REESE' LIBRARY
Ul^IVjpRSiTY OF CALIFORIxlIAv;
C) U K W 11 0 L E 0 () LI N T H Y :
OR THE
PAST AND PRESENT
OP THE
UNITED S1XA;.T"ES,
HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.
JLTXT XV7O ATOLXJTVtES,
CONTAINING THE
GENERAL AND LOCAL HISTORIES AND DESCRIPTIONS OF EACH OK THE STATES, TERRI
TORIES, CITIES, AND TOWNS OP THE UNION ; ALSO, BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OP
DISTINGUISHED PERSONS, TOGETHER WITH A LARGE AXD VARIED COL
LECTION OP INTERESTING AND VALUABLE INFORNfATION FOR ALL
CLASSES, RELATING TO EVERY PART OP OUR COUNTRY
FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC.
ILLUSTRATED BY SIX HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS;
PRESENTING VIEWS OP ALL THE CITIES AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS — PUBLIC BUILDINGS-
BIRTHPLACES AND SEATS OP EMINENT AMERICANS — PUBLIC MONUMENTS AND
THOSE OP THE ILLUSTRIOUS DEAD — BATTLE-FIELDS — HISTORICAL LO
CALITIES — RELICS OF ANTIQUITY — NATURAL CURIOSITIES, ETC.,
ALMOST WHOLLY FROM DRAWINGS TAKEN ON THE SPOT
BY THE AUTHORS, THE ENTIRE WORK BEING ON
THEIR PART THE RESULT OP OVER
13,000 MILES OF T&AVEL AND FOUR YEARS OF LABOB.
BY JOHN WARNER BARBER,
Author of Historical Collections of Connecticut and Massachusetts, etc.
AND
HENRY HOWE,
Author of Hist. Cull, of Virginia,' Ohio, and the Great West.
S%&^Wfi^
tf^- OF I
OIE1
RSV
K:
PUBLISHED BY GEORGE F. TUTTLE AND HENRY M'CAULEY
NO. 147 FULTON-STREET; ALSO BY
HENRY HOWE, NO. Ill MAIN-STREET, CINCINNATI.
SOLD EXCLUSIVELY BY SUBSCRIPTION.
1863.
Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1861,
BY HENRY HOWE,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern Dis
trict of Ohio.
CINCINNATI :
E. MORGAN & SONS,
Ktercott/pcrit and Publishers 111 Main St.
PUBLISHEK'S NOTICE:
MORE than four years since, we contracted with Mr. John W. Barber to travel over the
United States, collect materials, and take sketches for a work upon the entire country, on
the original plan, first adopted by him, a quarter of a century since, in the Historical Col
lections of Connecticut. The result is, the book you hold.
The task has been faithfully performed, and the work will interest MORE MINDS than any
as yet published upon the favored land, we Americans cherish as our own. The book appeals
alike to State and National pride, and contains a vast and varied amount of information
upon our whole country never before embodied, much of which could only have been ob
tained, as was this, by personal travel, observation and inquiry: and we state also, at a cost
which, if anticipated, would have prevented the commencement of the enterprise — that is
full fifteen thousand dollars before the paper was bought upon which to print it. We
now are glad it has been expended, as we thereby render the publication more worthy — a
HOUSEHOLD BOOK for every American family, attractive to all, and an heirloom to posterity,
to show them their country, ITS PAST AND PRESENT, illustrated with views of its cities, towns,
and objects of interest, as they exist in these our days.
Our part in its preparation has been mainly confined to adding to the original manu
scripts of Mr. Barber, whom we thus introduce to you. He is a plain old gentleman, who
began life with only the solid education Connecticut gives all her sons — born at the close
of the administration of George Washington, in the century that is past — with no especial
pride, except in being a descendant of the Pilgrims, of whom he is a genuine, honest, and
most unmistakable offshoot. His life has been one of untiring and useful industry, chiefly
passed in compiling books, every page of which has been created with a view to benefit
the public. No man living, in the Union, has taken so many views of places in it, as he,
in making drawings for this and his Various $tate\vorks. His books have gratified all
classes, the learned and unlearned, the old and young. A personal anecdote is proper
here. On a time, in the years now gone, we were rattled over the paving stones of Broad
way in an omnibus, and holding the first bound volume of a State work, the result of the
joint labor of Mr. Barber and ourself. An elderly gentleman, in neat, and as we thought,
somewhat humble attire, leaned over to look at our book: then putting an inquiry, which
we answered, he rejoined — " I have Mr. Barber's Connecticut and Massachusetts, and I
shall want that." A moment later the vehicle stopped and our questioner left us. " Do
you know who that old gentleman is that spoke to you? " asked a fellow passenger, also a
stranger. " No sir." " That," added he, " is Chancellor KENT."
On an adjacent page is a testimonial from NOAH WEBSTER, which hits two points — shows
the penmanship of the celebrated author of the American Dictionary of the English Lan
guage, and presents his opinion of the ability of Mr. Barber to prepare a historical work.
Both then were townsmen. The venerable, slender form of Webster, in the garb of a
gentleman of the old school, with broad brimmed hat, shading a benignant, scholarly
face, with Quaker-like cut coat, short breeches and buckle shoes, was, at that period,
a pleasant and daily object to be met moving modestly along under the proudly arching elma
of New Haven.
As we have intended this work as an AUTHENTIC RECORD of every important event and
date in American history, we would be thankful, if any error of moment should be dis
covered, that notice should be given us, so that in future editions it can be corrected. In
conclusion, we expect, as we have a right to expect, from our countrymen, that the work
happy spirit that values wht
one which demands a completeness unattainable excepting in the ideal. With this simple,
will be received in the happy spirit that values what is effected, rather than the miserable
unstilted talk to the reader, upon a purely business matter, we close. H. H.
(i)
PREFACE:
HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY and GEOGRAPHY, are subjects to which every in
telligent being is attracted, and the more so when they relate to one's own
country. These branches of knowledge enter into the rudiments of our
education, and continue to interest us, to a greater or less extent, throughout
the whole period of subsequent life. Books upon them, to meet the wants
of all classes, should be plain, concise, and yet sufficiently full to present the
material points.
The plan of this work is original with us, and was first adopted, some
twenty-five years since, while preparing a publication giving the history, an
tiquities, etc., of Connecticut. In that volume, after the outline history of
the State was given, each Township was particularly described by itself, in
cluding everything of importance in its history, antiquities, and present con
dition. In like manner, in this work is an outline history of the United States ;
then each State and Territory is particularly described by itself, embracing
everything of general interest respecting its history, geography, etc., includ
ing an account of the principal places, their first settlement, with biographi
cal sketches, and facts of a local and general interest.
Since the Historical Collections of Connecticut was published, several
state works have been issued upon that plan. These are the Historical Col
lections of Massachusetts, of New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Vir
ginia, Georgia, Kentucky, and Ohio. The success and very general com
mendation of these by the most intelligent minds in their respective states,
has led to the belief that a similar work on the United States would be re
ceived with equal favor by the whole country. For the purpose of collect
ing the materials, and making the necessary drawings to illustrate them, we
have traveled upward of sixteen thousand miles. Much has been obtained
from original settlers in various parts of the Union. In revolutionary his
tory interesting details have been given in past days, by personal conversa
tion with actors and eye-witnesses, of the scenes described, all of which is
herein embraced.
The primary object of history being a truthful relation of facts, original
accounts, as given by witnesses, and in their own words as far as practicable,
in general best answers this end. A trifling incident, accidentally, as it were,
so introduced, winch might be considered beneath the dignity of the histo-
(v)
vi PREFACE.
rian to notice, is often of more value than whole pages of learned inferences
or glowing descriptions. In the prosecution of our object we have examined
every publication we could obtain, and made copious extracts. Numerous
inscriptions from monuments in almost every part of the United States have
been copied. Many of these contain valuable general and local historical
information, which for reliability can not be excelled.
The drawings for the engravings in this work were, with very few excep
tions, taken by us expressly for it. 1. They were drawn on the spot by the eye
in outline, with pencil and paper, on a large scale. 2. After this, we reduced
them in outline on the smaller scale of the engraving. 3. These outlines
were again traced by an artist on the block, and shaded for the engraver.
4. Engraved. Beside our own work, as above indicated, upon them, it would
have taken one man seven years of labor to have performed this task, pro
vided only one had been employed. We mention these facts for the benefit
of the reader unfamiliar with book publishing.
Owing to the position of many places, only a partial view could be given.
To recognize any view the reader must be familiar with it from the point
whence the drawing was taken. As a general thing, they have been rendered
with that care that any one with the book in hand, can place himself within
a yard or two of the precise spot from whence each was drawn. In some
few instances, however, we have varied our "stand point" a trifle, to intro
duce objects that could not otherwise be shown. Care was taken that every
engraving should be truthful ; and as the work intends to be one of facts
only, fancy sketches and artistic representations merely have been avoided in
the text. Amid such a vast variety of dates, facts, etc., some errors must
occur in spite of every precaution to avoid them, and some places not as
fully noticed as was desirable. The failure in obtaining information, after
the attempt was made, must be the apology.
While other and older nations pride themselves on the past, we in this
western world are proud of what we expect to be. Like the heir apparent
of a mighty empire, we claim respect. Although we have our faults, and
our practice, in some instances, is in opposition to our theories — a common
failing of humanity — .yet what people have a fairer prospect of being the
first among nations? What names in history are more venerated than that
of Washington and of his co-patriots? What nation, at present, is doing
more to extend the area of civilization and Christianity? What people have
effected more, or even so much, in making discoveries and improvements
which will eventuate in the elevation of the human race ? Notwithstanding
some recent unhappy events in our national family, we believe a more accu
rate knowledge of each other will finally result, and dissolve mutual preju
dice, thus uniting us in a stronger brotherhood; for the people of the United
States are essentially but one, with one common interest, and as such there
awaits them but ONE PATE and ONE DESTINY. J. w. B.
ILLUSTRATIONS-VOL. I.
1. Frontispiece.
2. Map, United States, in 1803,
3. Map of the United States, in 1861,
4. Testimonial of Noah Webster,
5. Arms of the United States, -
6. Dighton Rock, -
7. Dighton Rock Inscriptions,
8. Map of Louisburg and vicinity, -
9. Map of North America, in 1753,
10. Map of Quebec,
MAINE.
11. Arms of Maine, -
12. Portland,
13. Augusta, -
14. Bangor, -
15. Indian Old Town,
16. Bath,
17. Mount Desert Rock, Lighthouse, etc.,153
18. Bowdoin College, -
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
19. Arms of New Hampshire,
20. Portsmouth, -
21. Concord, -----
22. Birthplace of Daniel Webster,
23. Manchester, -
24. Nashua, - ...
25. Keene, -
26. Dartmouth College,
27. Dartmouth College, 1771, -
28. Signature of Josiah Bartlett,
29. Signature of Wm. Whipple,
30. Signature of Matthew Thornton,
31. Birthplace of President Pierce,
32. Old Man of the Mountain, -
33. Signature of Daniel Webster, -
VERMONT.
34. Arms of Vermont,
35. Montpelier, -
36. Burlington, -
37. University of Vermont, -
88. Vermont Lunatic Asylum, -
39.
Page 3
40.
1, 3
41.
3
17
20
42.
- 20
43.
38
44.
- 42
45.
46
46.
47.
48.
- 127
49.
135
50.
- 138
51.
143
52.
- 145
53.
150
54.
etc.,153
55.
154
56.
57.
58.
165
59.
171
60.
172
61.
183
62.
185
63.
- 189
64.
190
65.
- 194
66.
196
67.
199
68.
199
69,
- 199
70.
201
- 202
71.
204
72.
- 205
73.
210
74.
- 212
75.
213
76.
- 215
77.
39. Battle-field of Bennington, Page 217
40. Rutland, ..... 220
41. Norwich University, - - 223
MASSACHUSETTS.
Arms of Massachusetts, -
Plymouth, - ...
Plymouth Rock, - - -
The Allyn House, - -
Provincetown, ...
Fall River, - -
New Bedford, - -
Boston, .....
Faneuil Hall, -
Statue of Benj. Franklin, -
Signature of Benj. Franklin,
Salem,- -----
Whitefield's Monument,
Lawrence, -
Lowell,
Bunker Hill Monument, - -
Bunker Hill Map,
Harvard College, -
Lexington Monument, -
Lexington Green,
Main-street in Worcester, -
Springfield,
Street in Northampton, -
Pittsfield,
William's College, - -
Signature of John Hancock, -
Signature of Elbridge Gerry,
Signature of John Adams, -
Birthplaces of John and John
Adams, ----
Signature of Robt. Treat Paine,
Signature of Sam'l. Adams, -
RHODE ISLAND.
73. Arms of Rhode Island,
74. Market Square, Providence, -
75. Brown University, - -
76. Newport, - -
77. State House, Newport, - -
(vii)
Q.
229
237
240
240
242
245
246
251
255
257
257
259
262
264
265
269
271
274
275
277
279
282
285
287
289
291
291
292
292
293
294
297
301
304
312
315
Vlll
ILLUSTRATIONS.
78. Jewish Synagogue, Newport, Page 316
79. Round Tower, Newport,
80. Touro Monument, Newport, -
81 White Hall, Newport,
82. Mount Hope, -
83. Signature of Stephen Hopkins, -
84. Signature of William Ellery, -
CONNECTICUT.
85. Arms of Connecticut, -
86. Hartford, - ...
87. Colt's Armory, -
88. Charter Oak, -
89. Hartford Monument, -
90. Franklin Oak,
91. Public Buildings, Middletown, -
92. Lady Fenwick's Tomb, -
93. The New Haven Green,
94. Yale College, -
95. Judge's Cave, -
96. Bridgeport, - - - -
97. Central View in Waterbury,
98. New London and vicinity,
99. Groton Monument, -
100. Ledyard Monument,
101. Norwich, -----
102. Uncas' Monument, -
103. Birthplace of Capt. Nathan Hale,
104. Putnam's Wolf Den, -
105. Signature of Samuel Huntington,
106. Birthplace of Noah Webster, -
107. Signature of Roger Sherman,
108. Signature of Win. Williams, -
109. Signature of Oliver Wolcott,
NEW YORK.
110. Arms of New York, -
111. Situation of New York City, -
112. Stadt Huys, New York,
113. Nieuw Amsterdam in 1659, -
114. Forest of Masts, on East River, -
115. Broadway, from the Park,
116. Printing House Square,
117. Harpers, -
118. The Tombs, -
119. Cow Bay, Five Points, -
120. Cooper Institute, -
121. The Bible House, -
122. Statue of Washington, Union Park, 400
123. Fifth Avenue Hotel, -
124. Broadway, from Rev. Dr. Chapin's
Church, - ...
125. Navy Yard, Brooklyn,
126. Miss Carida's Monument, Greenw'd, 408
127. Albany, -
316
128.
318
129.
319
130.
322
131.
323
132.
327
133.
328
134.
135.
136.
329
137.
337
138.
339
139.
344
140.
344
141.
348
142.
351
143.
352
144.
354
145.
355
146.
358
147.
359
148.
364
149.
365
150.
370
151.
371
152.
372
153.
374
154.
376
155.
379
156.
380
157.
380
158.
382
159.
382
160.
382
161.
162.
163.
385
164.
389
390
391
165.
393
166.
395
167.
396
168.
396
169.
397
170.
397
171.
398
172.
399
173.
400
174.
401
175.
176.
403
177.
406
178.
408
409
179.
Hudson City, • - - - Page 411
Birthplace of Pre^t. Van Buren, 412
Poughkeepsie, - - - 413
Up the Hudson, from West Point, 414
Kosciusko's Monument, - - 415
Dade Monument, - 415
Andre's Place of Execution, - 417
Irving's Residence, - - 417
Stony Point, - - - 419
Troy, _ ... 420
Congress Spring, Saratoga, - - 422
Coleman Monument, - - 423
Davidson Monument, - 423
Map of Burgoyne's Route, - 424
Battle-field of Stillwater, - 425
Ruins of Ticonderoga, - - 427
Union College, Schenectady, - 431
Genesee-street, Utica, - - 434
Hamilton College, - - - 436
Street View in Syracuse, - 438
Field of Salt Vats, - - - 439
Salt Manufactory, - 439
Grain Warehouses, Oswego, - 440
Oswego in 1755, - - 441
State Prison, Auburn, - 443
Logan Monument, - - - 443
Street in Rochester, - - - 444
Niagara Falls, 446
Map of Niagara and vicinity, - 447
Harbor of Buffalo, - - 449
Custom House, etc., in Buffalo, - 449
Bridge at Portage, - 452
State Inebriate Asylum, - - 453
Signature of Philip Livingston, 455
Signature of Francis Lewis, - 455
Signature of Lewis Morris, - - 455
Signature of Wm. Floyd, - 455
NEW JERSEY.
Arms of New Jersey, - - - 457
Park at Newark, - - - 462
State House, Trenton, - 465
College of New Jersey, Princeton, 469
Battle-field, Princeton, - 470
Jersey City, from New York, - 472
New Brunswick, - - - 473
Sandy Hook, - - - - 475
Camden, ... - 476
Mills at Paterson, - - - 479
Map of Seat of War in N. Jersey, 481
Battle-field of Monmouth, 484
The Huddy House, - 486
Washington's Headquarters, Mor-
ristown, - 488
Caldwell Monument, - - - 491
ILLUSTRATIONS.
IX
180. Signature of Abram Clark, - Page 493
181. Signature of Richard Stockton, - 493
182. Signature of Francis Hopkinson, 493
183. Signature of John Hart, - 494
184. Signature of Jas. Witherspoon, - 494
PENNSYLVANIA.
185. Arms of Pennsylvania, - - 499
186. Independence Hall, Philadelphia, 504
187. Merchants' Exchange, - - 505
188. Swedes' Church, etc., - - 507
189. Penn's Treaty Tree, - - - 510
190. Girard College, ... 515
191. The Chew House, Germantown, - 517
192. Battle-field of Brandywine, - 520
193. Harrisburg, - - 524
194. State House, Harrisburg, - 524
195. Harris' Grave, - - - - 525
196. Central Square, Lancaster, - 526
197. President Buchanan's Residence, 528
198. Easton, - - - -» - 530
199. Delaware Water Gap, 531
200. Central View in Wilkesbarre, - 533
201. Battle Monument, at Wyoming, 537
202. Railroad Station, Pottsville, - 538
203. Interior of a Coal Mine, - - 539
204. Reading, - ... 541
205. Washington's Head-quarters at
Valley Forge, •- 543
206. Pittsburg, ----- 546
207. Situation of Pittsburg and Alle-
ghany, - 546
208. Braddock's Battle-field, - - 548
209. Grave of Braddock, - - 550
210. Signature of Robert Morris, - 552
211. Signature of Benj. Rush, - 553
212. Signature of Geo. Clymer, - - 553
213. Signature of James Smith, - 553
214. Signature of John Morton, - - 554
215. Signature of Geo. Taylor, - 554
216. Signature of James Wilson, - 554
217. Signature of Geo. Ross, - - 554
218. Residence of Gen. Wayne, - - 555
219. Residence of Benj. West, - 558
DELAWARE.
220. Arms of Delaware, - 559
221. Wilmington, - - - - 561
222. Swedes' Church, Wilmington, - 562
223. Central Part of New Castle, - 564
224. State House, at Dover, - - 565
225. Signature of Geo. Read, - - 566
226. Signature of Caesar Rodney, - 566
227. Signature of Thomas M'Kean, 567
MARYLAND.
228. Arms of Maryland, - - Page 569
229. Battle Monument, Baltimore, - 574
230. Washington Monument, Baltimore, 577
231. Fort M'Henry, ... 531
232. Tray Run Viaduct, - - - 584
233. Ferguson Monument, - - 587
234. State House, Annapolis, - - 587
235. St. John's College, - 590
236. United States Naval Academy, - 591
237. Frederick City, - ' - - 592
238. Cumberland, - - - - 593
239. Signature of Samuel Chase, - 594
540. Signature of Wm. Paca, - 594
241. Signature of Thos. Stone, - 595
242. Signature of Chas. Carroll, - - 595
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
24£. Capitol of the United States, - 600
244. House of Representatives in Ses
sion, - - - 601
245. Naval Monument, - 602
246. President's House, - - - 603
247. Lecture Room, Smithsonian Insti
tute, ----- 605
248. Congressional Monument, - - 608
249. Aqueduct and College, Georgetown, 610
VIRGINIA.
250. Arms of Virginia, - - - 611
251. Richmond, 620
252. Washington Monument, Richmond, 621
253. Burning of the Richmond Theater, 624
254. Ruins of Blanford Church, - - 625
255. Harbor of Norfolk, - 627
256. The Old Magazine, Williamsburg, 631
257. Ruins at Jamestown, - - - 633
258. Washington's Birthplace, - 637
259. Mount Vernon, - - 636
260. Writing of Washington when 30
years of age, ... 640
261. Entry of Washington's Birth in
the Family Bible, - - 640
262. Alexandria, - 641
263. Washington Church, Alexandria, 641
264. University of Virginia, - - 642
265. Monticello, Seat of Jefferson, - 643
266. Signature of Jefferson, - - 643
267. Old Court House, New London, 646
268. Harper's Ferry, 647
269. School House in the Mountains, - 648
270. Engine House, Harper's Ferry,- 650
271. The Natural Bridge, - - 655
272. Wheeling, 658
ILLUSTRATIONS.
273. Hieroglyphic Stone, - - 1
274. Signature of Washington,
275. Signature of Carter Braxton,
276. Signature of Benj. Harrison, -
277. Signature of Richard Henry Lee,
278. Signature of Thos. Nelson, jr., -
279. Signature of Francis Lightfoot Lee,
280. Signature of George Wythe,
281. Signature of Patrick Henry, -
282. Seat of President Monroe, -
283. Birthplace of President Harrison,
284. Birthplace of Henry Clay,
285. Seat of President Madison, -
286. Seat of John Randolph, -
287. Church of the Blind Preacher, -
NORTH CAROLINA.
288. Arms of North Carolina,
289. Wilmington, -
290. Ancient House, Wilmington,
291. The Harnett House,
292. Tryon's Palace, -
293. U. S. Mint, Charlotte, -
294. State Capitol, Raleigh,
295. Insane Asylum,
296. Regulator Battle-ground, -
297. University of N. Carolina, Chapel
Hill,
298. Turpentine Distillery, -
299. Cahin in the Pine Forest,
300. Battle-ground at Guilford, -
301. Signature of Joseph Hewes,
302. Signature of Wm. Hooper, -
303. Signature of John Penn,
304. Birthplace of President Jackson,
SOUTH CAROLINA.
305. Arms of South Carolina, -
306. Broad-street, Charleston,
307. Orphan Asylum, -
308. Charleston College, -
309. Turnbull's Monument,
310. Calhoun's Monument,
agi
5 660
311.
State Capitol, Columbia,
712
662
312.
South Carolina College, -
713
-
663
313.
Congaree Bridge, -
715
663
314.
Map of Seat of War in the South,
718
e,
663
315.
Battle-ground at Cowpens,
719
-
663
316.
Monument at Cowpens,
719
<ee
,664
664
317.
Battle-ground at King's Moun-
720
664
318.
Monument to Col. Ferguson, -
721
-
665
319.
Furman University, -
723
n,
666
320.
Chick's Springs,
723
666
321.
Residence of John C. Calhoun, -
725
-
667
322.
Signature of John C. Calhoun,
726
668
323.
Ancient Church, near Pendleton,
727
-
669
324.
Signature of Thos. Heyward, jr.,
728
325.
Signature of Thos. Lynch, jr.,
728
326.
Signature of Arthur Middleton,
728
-
671
327.
Signature of Edward Rutledge, -
729
£75
328.
Residence of Gen. Marion,
730
-
676
329.
The Palmetto Tree at Charleston,
732
677
330.
Huguenot Church, -
733
_
679
690
GEORGIA.
-
682
331.
Arms of Georgia, -
735
682
332.
Ancient View of Savannah, -
741
-
683
333.
Central View in Savannah, -
742
Del
334.
Ancient House in Savannah, -
743
686
335.
The Pulaski Monument,
744
-
689
336.
Jasper's ipring, -
746
691
337.
City Hall and Monument, Augusta,
749
-
693
338.
Macon, -
751
695
339.
Fort Hawkins, -
752
-
695
340.
Central View in Milledgeville,
753
695
341.
Oglethorpe University, -
754
)
696
342.
Athens, - - - - -
755
343.
Columbus, -
756
344.
757
_
697
345.
Signature of Geo. Walton,
759
702
346.
Signature of Button Gwinnett, -
759
-
703
347.
Signature of Lyman Hall,
759
704
348.
Rice Harvest, -
761
_
708
349.
Southern Cabin, -
762
708
350.
Planter's Mansion, -
763
ILLUSTRATIONS-VOL. II.
351. Frontispiece..
FLORIDA.
352. Arms^of Florida, - - P
353. The Plaza at St. Augustine, •
354. Fort Marion,
355. Ancient Spanish Gateway,
356. Charlotte-street, -
357. Soldiers' Cemetery,
ALABAMA.
358. Arms of Alabama,
359. St. Louis Wharf, Mobile,
360. Fort Morgan, Mobile Point,
361. Central View in Montgomery, -
362. Landing at Selma,
363. Judson Female Institute, Marion, 817
364. University of Alabama, Tusca-
loosa, -
365. Public Square, Huntsville,
MISSISSIPPI.
366. Arms of Mississippi, -
367. Central View of Jackson,
368. Natchez, -
369. Vicksburg, -
370. Observatory of the State Univer
sity, .....
371. Harvesting Cotton, -
LOUISIANA.
372. Arms of Louisiana,
373. Jackson Square, New Orleans,
374. Levee, .....
375. St. Charles-street,
376. Lafayette Square, -
377. Outline View of New Orleans,
378. Battle-field, New Orleans,
379. The French Cemetery,
380. Baton Rouge, -
381. State Capitol, Baton Rouge,
382. Gen. Taylor's Residence,
383. Gathering Sugar Cane,
384.
385.
age 779
386.
783
387.
- 785
388.
786
389.
- 787
390.
789
391.
392.
393.
- 803
394.
807
395.
- 809
811
- 815
396.
n, 817
397.
;a-
398.
- 819
399.
820
400.
401.
402.
- 825
403.
828
404.
- 829
405.
834
jr-
406.
836
407.
- 840
408.
409.
410.
843
411.
- 846
412.
846
413.
- 847
414.
849
415.
- 849
416.
851
- 857
860
417.
- 860
418.
861
419.
- 866
420.
TENNESSEE.
Arms of Tennessee, - - 871
Nashville, - - 875
State House, Nashville, - 877
President Folk's Residence, - 881
Memphis, - - 884
Knoxville, 887
Old Hotel, Knoxville, - - 887
Signature of Andrew Jackson, - 892
Residence of Andrew Jackson, 893
Tomb of Andrew Jackson, - - 895
David Crockett's Cabin, - - 897
Brainerd, Missionary Station, - 899
KENTUCKY.
Arms of Kentucky, - 903
Frankfort, 900
State House, Frankfort, - 907
Military Monument, - - 907
Grave of Daniel Boone, - - 909
Louisville, - - - 911
Medical and Law Colleges, - - 912
Green River Bridge, 914
View in the Mammoth Cave, - 915
United States Barracks and Suspen
sion Bridge, Newport, - - 916
Public Square, Lexington, - - 922
Ashland, Seat of Henry Clay, - 923
Monument of Henry Clay, - - 925
Old Fort at Boonesboro', 926
Landing at Paducah, - - • 928
A Tobacco Plantation, - 929
A Religious Encampment, - - 935
Signature of Daniel Boone, - 936
Signature of Geo. Rogers Clark, - 937
Signature of Isaac Shelby, 940
Signature of Henry Clay, - - 940
OHIO.
417. Arms of Ohio, 943
418. Ancient Mound, Marietta, - - 948
419. Campus Martius, Marietta, - 949
420. A Pioneer Dwelling, - - - 951
(xi)
Xll
ILLUSTRATIONS.
421.
422.
423.
424.
425.
426.
427.
42S.
429.
430.
431.
432.
433.
434.
435.
436.
437.
4oS.
439.
440.
441.
442.
443.
444.
445.
446.
447.
448.
449.
450.
4.)1.
452.
453.
454.
455.
456.
457.
458.
459.
460.
461.
462.
463.
464.
465.
466.
467.
468.
469.
Gallipolis, in 1791,
- Page 953
Outline View of Cincinnati, - 956
First Church in Cincinnati, - - 958
Cincinnati, in 1802, - - 959
View in Fourth-street, Cincinnati, 961
Pike's Opera House. - - - 963
Longworth's Vineyard, - - 965
President Harrison's House, North
Bend, -
Old Block House, near North Bend
Monument of J. C. Symmes,
Court House. Chillioothe, -
Old State Capitol, -
Portsmouth, -
State Capitol, Columbus,
Ohio White Sulphur Springs,
Court House, Zanesville. -
Market-street, Steubenville,
Superior-street, Cleveland,
Ancient Map of the Vicinity of
Cleveland,
Toledo, - - - -
Map. Battles on the Maumee,
Wayne's Battle-ground, -
Public Square. Saudusky, -
Ancient Map. Sandusky,
Fort Sandusky. -
Wyandot Mission Church,
View in Dayton, -
Old Log Court House in Greene
county, . -
Plan of St. Clair's Battle-field, -
Birthplace of Teeumseh, - 1006
Signature of President Harrison, 1007
Swiss Emigrant's Cottage, - - 1007
Grave of Simon Kenton, - 1009
Brady's Pond, - 1010
Statue of Com. Perry, Cleveland, 1011
470.
471.
472.
473.
474.
475.
New Albany, - - Page 1048
Military Monument, - 1049
University of Indiana, - - 1051
Old State Capitol, Corydon, - 1051
The Jug Rock, ... 1052
The Mill Stream Cave, - - 1052
967
476.
. 968
477.
968
478.
969
479.
970
480.
971
974
481.
973
482.
977
983
483.
985
484.
485.
986
48«.
W
487.
990
488.
991
489.
996
996
490.
997
491.
999
492.
1000
49-;.
494.
1001
495.
1003
496.
INDIANA.
Arms of Indiana, - - - 1015
The Harrison House, Vincennes, 1019
State Capitol. Indianapolis, - 1024
Union Depot, - 1025
View in Terra Haute, - - 1028
Friends' Boarding School, Rich
mond, ----- 1029
Evansville, - - - - 1031
Rapp's Church, New Harmony, - 1032
Calhoun-street, Fort Wayne, - 1035
Old Fort Wayne, - - - 1037
Lafayette, .... 1040
Tippecanoe Battle-ground, - 1041
Map of Tippecanoe Battle-ground, 1045
Madison, - ... 1046
1055
1060
1062
1064
1065
1071
1073
1078
1081
1082
1086
1088
1092
497.
498.
499.
500.
501.
.•02.
503.
504.
505.
506.
507.
508.
509.
510.
511.
512.
513.
514.
ILLINOIS.
Arms of Illinois, -
Chicago, in 1831, -
Court House Square, Chicago, -
Block Raising, Chicago,
Grain Houses and Railway Depot
Chicago, - - - - -
State House Square, Springfield,
Prest. Lincoln's Residence, Spring
field, -----
Illinois College, Jacksonville,
Bloomington, -
Peoria, -
Quincy, -
Alton, -----
Map of Levee at Cairo,
Junction of the Ohio and Missis
sippi, Cairo, - 1092
Galena. 1093
The Lead Region, - 1095
Rock Island City.- - - 1096
Fort Armstrong, Rock Island, - 1097
Nauvoo, . . . 1099
Mt. Joliet, - ... 1103
Cave-in-the-Rock, - - 1109
MICHIGAN.
Arms of Michigan, - - - 1113
Detroit. 1119
Woodward Avenue, Detroit, - 1121
State House, Lansing, - - 1127
State Penitentiary, Jackson, - 1129
State University, Ann Arbor, 1130
Winchester's Head-quarters, Mon
roe,
Site of Stockade on the Raisin,
State Asylum for Deaf and Blind,
Flint,- - 1139
Monroe-street, Grand Rapids, - 1141
Lumberman's Camp, - - 1142
Mackinaw Island, - - - 1146
The Arched Rock, - - 1147
Ruins of Old Fort Mackinaw, - 1148
Map of Mackinaw and vicinity, 1151
Falls of St. Mary, - - 1153
Map of Copper and Iron Re
gion, ----- 1156
The Minesota Mine, - - 1158
1131
1134
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Xiii
WISCONSIN.
515. Arms of Wisconsin, - - Page
1167
561.
516. Harbor of Milwaukie, -
1173
562.
517. The Portage, -
1183
563.
518. Voyageurs' Camp,-
1184
564.
519. Madison,
1185
565.
520. Map of the Four Lakes,
1189
521. Fort Crawford, Prairie du Chien,
1191
522. Racine,
1196
566.
523. The Maiden's Rock,
1200
567.
524. Fort Winnebago, in 1831, -
1203
568.
MINNESOTA.
569.
525. Arms of Minnesota, -
1211
570.
526. St. Paul, -
1216
571.
527. Fort Snelling, -
1218
572.
528. Minne-ha-ha Falls,
1219
573.
529. Lake Itasca, -
1223
574.
530. Dakotah Dog Dance (music), -
1225
575.
531. Ojibway Scalp Dance (music), -
1225
576.
577.
IOWA.
578.
532. Arms of Iowa, - - - -
1229
579.
533. Dubuque, -
1234
534. Ruins of Camanche, -
1241
580.
535. Davenport, -
1245
536. Attack on the Bellevue Hotel, -
1249
537. Burlington, -
1253
538. Judge Rorer's House,
1254
581.
539. Keokuk,
1255
582.
540. Prairie Scenery, -
1257
583.
541. Muscatine, - ...
1261
542. State University, Iowa City,
1263
584.
MISSOURI.
585.
543. Arms of Missouri, -
1267
586.
544. Levee at St. Louis,
1271
587.
545. Court House, St. Louis,
1273
588.
546. Biddle Monument,
1279
547. Jefferson City, -
1280
548. Lexington Landing,
1285
589.
549. Kansas City,
1286
590.
550. A Santa Fe Train,
1288
591.
551. St. Joseph, -
1290
552. Hannibal, -
1291
1300
592.
593.
KANSAS.
594.
554. Arms of Kansas, -
1303
595.
555. Fort Leavenworth,
1308
556. Leavenworth, -
1309
596.
557. Lawrence, -
1311
558. Lecompton, -
1313
597.
559. Topeka Bridge, -
1315
598.
560. Kansas Indian Village,
1317
ARKANSAS.
561. Arms of Arkansas, -
562. Little Rock, -
563. Helena, -
564. Napoleon, -
565. Scene on the Arkansas,
TEXAS.
- Page 1323
1326
- 1328
1328
- 1329
Arms of Texas, - 1333
Galveston, - 1341
View of the Main Plaza, San Anto
nio, .... 1344
Church of the Alamo, - - 1345
Mission of San Jose,- - - 1348
The Alamo, - 1349
Plan of the Alamo, - - - 1351
Landing at Houston, - - 1355
Ancient Capitol, Houston, - - 1356
Ruins at Goliad, ... 1357
State Capitol, Austin, - - 1360
Tho Alamo Monument, - - 1361
San Jacinto Battle-ground, - 1367
Soldiers' Grave, at
Battle-ground, -
A Night Scene on
Bayou, -
San Jacinto
1369
Buffalo
- 1373
the
CALIFORNIA.
581. Arms of California, - - - 1385
582. Harbor of San Francisco, - 1395
583. Execution by the Vigilance Com
mittee, ----- 1400
584. Washing Gold with the Long
Tom, 1406
585. Sutler's Mill, .... 1406
586. Hydraulic Mining, - - 1408
587. Fremont's Ranche, - 1409
588. Mammoth Tree Grove, - - 1411
OREGON.
Arms of Oregon, - 1415
590. Valley of the Willamette, - 1420
591. Giant Pines, - 1421
NEW MEXICO.
592. Giant Cactus, - 1433
593. Pueblo or Town of Zuni, - 1435
594. Ancient Pueblo, - 1439
595. Ground Plan of an Ancient Pue
blo, 1437
596. Ancient Pueblo in the Canon of
Chelly, 1441
597. Canon of Chelly, - - - 1441
598. View of Inscription Rock, near
Zuni, 1443
XIV
ILLUSTRATIONS.
ARIZONA.
599. Church at Tucson on San Antonio's
Day, .--- Page 1447
600. Dragoon Springs, Overland Mail
Station, - - - 1448
601. Reduction Works, Heintzelman
Silver Mine, - 1450
UTAH.
602. View in Salt Lake City, - - 1456
603. Mormon Harem, - 1458
COLORADO.
604. View in Denver, - 1468
605. Street in Denver, - 1469
the engravings original to this work are included in the copyright, and can not
be copied from by other publishers, without an infringement of the law protecting this
kind of property.
OUTLINE HISTORY
OF THE
UNITED STATES
VOYAGES, DISCOVERIES AND SETTLEMENTS OF THE NORTHMEN.
SOME evidence exists that the North-eastern Coast of the United
States was visited by Europeans a few centuries before the discove
ries of Columbus. Although not
generally acknowledged as authen
tic history, yet it is believed by
some respectable historians, that
a colony of Norwegians, or North
men, visited the coast of New Eng
land about A.D. 1000.
The original Icelandic accounts
of the voyages of discovery, per
formed by these men, are still in
existence ; and have been recently
published by the Society of An
tiquaries at Copenhagen.* The
following summary of events and
conclusions respecting the discov
ery and first settlement in this country, is drawn by the authors
of that publication.
In the spring of 986 of the Christian Era, Eric the Red, emigrated
from Iceland to Greenland, and there formed a settlement. In 994,
SEAL OF THE UNITED STATES.
E Pluribus Unum " — One composed of many.
* ANTIQUITATES AMERICANS, etc. [Antiquities of America, or Northern writers of things
in America before Columbus.] Hafniae, 1837, 4to. pp. 486.
13 OUTLINE HISTORY.
Biarne, the son of one of the settlers who accompanied Eric, returned
to Norway, and gave an account of discoveries he had made south
ward from Greenland. On his return to Greenland, Lief, the son of
Eric, bought Biarne's ship, and with a crew of thirty-five men, em
barked o-n. a voyage of discovery, A.D. 1000. "After sailing some
time to the south-west, they came to a country covered with a slaty
rock; : wliich, therefore, they called Helluland [Slate-land]. They
then proceeded southerly, until they found a low flat coast, with
white sand cliffs, and immediately back covered with woods, from
which they called the country Maryland [Wood-land]. From there
they sailed south and west, until they arrived at a promontory which
extended to the east and north, and sailing round it, turned to the
west, and sailing westward passed between an island and the main
land, and entering into a bay through which flowed a river, they con
cluded to winter at that place."
Soon after they had built their winter houses, they discovered an
abundance of vines, whence they named the country Vinland [Wine-
land]. It has been a matter of doubt where Yinland was located, but
the Antiquarian Society, at Copenhagen, after an examination of all
the evidence on the subject, place it at the head of Narraganset Bay
in Rhode Island. Everything in the description of the voyage and
country agrees with this location. The promontory described as ex
tending east and north, corresponds with that of Barnstable and Cape
Cod, and the islands they would pass after turning west would be
Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard.
In A.D. 1002 (two years afterward), Thorwold, the brother of Lief,
visited Yinland where he spent two years, and was finally murdered
by the natives. Before his death, he coasted round the promontory
called the north end, now Cape Cod, Kjalarnes [Keel Cape]. He was
killed and buried on a small promontory, reaching south from the
main land, on the west side of the bay, inclosed by the promontory
of Kjalarnes, which answers accurately to Gurnet's Point, a strip of
land on the east side of Plymouth harbor. The Norwegians called it
Krassanes [Cross-land], because the grave of Thorwold had a cross
erected at both ends.
In 1007, three ships sailed from Greenland for Vinland, one under
the command of Thorfinn Karlsefne, a Norwegian of royal descent,
and Snorre Thorbrandson, of distinguished lineage ; one other com
manded by Biarne Grimalfson and Thorhall Gamlason ; and the third
by Thorward and Thorhall. The three ships had one hundred and
\
'I,
OUTLINE HISTORY. }9
sixty men, and carried all sorts of domestic animals for planting and
sustaining a colony. An account of this voyage, and a history of the
country is still extant, and forms one of the documents in the Anti-
quitatcs Americana?.
These voyagers sailed from Greenland to Helluland, and passing
Markland arrived at Kjalarnes; whence sailing south by the shore of
the promontory, which they found to consist of trackless beaches and
long wastes of sand, they called it Furthustandir [Wonder-strand or
jleach] ; whether on account of the extensive sandy shore, or from
the mirage and optical illusion so common at Cape Cod it can not be
determined. Passing southerly they sailed by the island discovered
by Lief (probably Martha's Vineyard), and passed thence to ViiJand,
where they spent the winter.
The bay into which they sailed, they called Hopsvatn, and their
residence received the name of Hop (English, Hope, Indian Haup),
the identical Mount Hope, Rhode Island, so much celebrated, later, as
the residence of King Philip. After various successes, Thorfinn re
turned to Greenland, and finally went to Iceland and settled.
''From a comparison of all the remaining accounts of these voy
ages," says a recent able writer, uthe geographical, nautical, and
astronomical facts contained in them, with the natural history and
geography of this country when first settled by the whites, there can
be but little doubt that Vinland has been correctly located by the
learned Society." Markland is supposed to be what is now Nova
Scotia, and Helluland, Newfoundland and the Coast of Labrador.
Of the climate of Vinland the Northmen say, when they were there
it was so mild that cattle would live out-doors during the year, that
the snow fell but lightly, and that the grass continued to be green in
some places, nearly all winter. Among the productions were a kind
of wild wheat (maize), a great variety of forest animals, eider ducks
in plenty, and the river they described as having been filled with fish,
among which were salmon, halibut, etc. It is said by the same histo
rians, that the sun rose at half past seven o'clock in the shortest
days, which is the exact time it rises at Mount Hope.
The annexed cut is a view of the celebrated "Digliton Rock"
as seen from the west side of Taunton River, in the limits of the
present town of Berkeley about eighteen miles east from Providence,
and thirty-seven south from Boston. This " Writing Rock," as it is
sometimes called, which has caused so much speculation among anti
quarians, is of fine grained gray granite; it stands a few feet above
2
20
OUTLINE HISTORY.
low water mark, and is partially covered at every tide. This rock —
designated in the engraving by two figures near it — -is on its face
Dighton Rock, as seen from Dighton Shore.
about eleven feet long, and rises from the ground about five feet; the
inscriptions are apparently pecked in : the channels of the letters, or
marks, are from one half to three fourths of an inch in width. Some
suppose they were made by the native Indians, but the hard nature
of the rock is such that it would seem difficult to have been cut by
any tools which they were known to have had in use.
The annexed cut shows the shape of the rock with the inscriptions
upon it, being a reduced copy from that taken under the direction of
the Rhode Island Historical Society in 1830, and published in the An-
Inscriptions on Dighton Rock.
tiquitates Americana. It is supposed by some, that these inscriptions
were made by the Northmen, and signify, in Icelandic characters, that
Thorfinn Karlsefne arrived here in A.D. 1007, and took possession of
the country : others assign to them a much earlier origin, and even
ascribe them to the Phoenicians. At Newport, Rhode Island, is a cir-
OUTLINE HISTORY. 21
cular stone tower, the origin of which is unknown. By some it is
supposed to have been erected by the Northmen : by others as having
been the work of the first English settlers.
THE DISCOVERIES OP COLUMBUS.
The fame which Columbus had acquired by his first discoveries on
the western hemisphere, spread through Europe and inspired many
with the spirit of enterprise. The first discovery of Columbus was
made in 1492, and on his fourth voyage in 1498, he discovered the
continent at the mouth of the Oronoco, in South America.
THE DISCOVERIES OP CABOT.
In 1497, John Cabot, a Venetian, under the patronage of Henry
VII, of England, commenced a voyage of discovery. He was accom
panied by his son Sebastian, and three hundred men, with two
caravals freighted by the merchants of London and Bristol. On the
24th of June they discovered land. Cabot called it Prima Vista,
which, in Italian, his native tongue, signifies, first sight. This is sup
posed to have been some part of the island of Newfoundland. A few
days afterward they discovered a smaller island, which they named
St. Johns, on account of the discovery being made on the day of Johr>
the Baptist. They continued westerly till they reached the Conti
nent, and then sailed along northerly to the latitude of sixty-seven
and a half degrees. Despairing of finding "a passage to India" in
that quarter, they turned back and sailed along the coast southward
to Florida, and then from thence returned to England. Upon the
discoveries made in this voyage, the English founded their claim to
the eastern portion of North America.
THE VOYAGES OF VERRAZZANO AND OTHERS.
In 1524, John Verrazzano, a Florentine in the service of France,
sailed to America and proceeded along the coast from Florida to the
fiftieth degree of north latitude. He is supposed to have entered the
harbor of New York. He made another voyage, from which he never
returned, nor is it known by what disaster he perished. During the
next forty years, frequent voyages were made to the coast of North
America. Fishing, and trade with the natives, appears to have been
the principal object.
22 OUTLINE HISTORY.
THE DISCOVERIES OF CARTIER.
In the spring of 1534, a fleet was fitted out in France, under the
direction of the French king, with the design to make further dis
coveries in America. The command of the fleet was given to James
Cartier, who arrived at Newfoundland in May. Thence he sailed
northerly, and on the day of the festival of St. Lawrence, he found
himself in the midst of a broad river, or gulf, which he named St.
Lawrence. In this voyage he sailed as far north as latitude 50°, ex
pecting in vain to find a passage to China. The next year he sailed
up the River St. Lawrence to a great and swift fall. He called the
country New France, built a fort in which he spent the winter, and
returned the following spring to France. This was the first attempt
of the French to make a settlement in America.
THE EXPEDITION OF DE SOTO.
In 1539, the Spaniards made an attempt at conquest within the
present limits of the United States. In this year Fernando de Soto,
governor of Cuba, sailed from Havana with nine vessels and nine
hundred men besides sailors, two hundred and thirteen horses and a
herd of swine, and landed at Espirito Santo, in Florida. He ex
pected to find mines and plenty of gold, but was most miserably dis
appointed. He encountered much opposition from the natives, and
was often deluded by them. He went north, crossed the Alleghany
mountains, and went into the Chickesaw country, where he spent a
winter. He then crossed the Mississippi. After wandering about
exposed to many hardships, famine, and opposition of the natives, he
died near the mouth of Red River. The remains of his force passed
down the Mississippi and made the best of their way to Panuco in
Mexico, where they arrived in September, 1543. "In this extraordi
nary expedition of more than four years duration in the wilderness,
and among hostile savages, more than half the men perished."
THE HUGUENOTS ATTEMPT TO COLONIZE CAROLINA.
In 1562, during the civil war between the Protestant and Catholic
parties in France, Admiral Coligny formed a project for carrying a
colony of Protestants to America, where they might enjoy religious
freedom. Having obtained permission of the French king, who was
desirous of getting rid of his Huguenots or Protestant subjects, ho
fitted out two ships under the command of John Ribault, who landed
OUTLINE HISTORY. 23
at a place supposed to be within the limits of South Carolina, built a
fort, garrisoned it with twenty men, and returned to France. . The
company left by Ribault, mutinied soon after he left, and killed their
captain for his severity. Reduced at length, they, by extraordinary
efforts, built and rigged out a vessel, and " embarking their artillery,
their forge, and other munitions of war, and as mill as they could
gather," put to sea. When they had been out several weeks,
their provisions being exhausted, they were obliged to kill and eat
one of their number, who offered himself as a victim to appease their
hunger. A few days afterward they were taken up by an English
vessel, and carried to England.
/s^
f ( YT *•" "
SETTLEMENT OF ST. AUGUSTINE BY SPANIARDS.
In 1564, Laudoniere, another Frenchman, carried a colony to the
River of May, in Florida, where, in honor of Charles the French king,
he erected a fortification, which he called Fort Caroline. In 1565,
Ribault, who was sent to supersede Laudoniere, arrived in Florida
with seven vessels — took all the best of the men at Fort Caroline for
an expedition against the Spaniards, and left Laudoniere in charge of
the fort without adequate means of defense. At this time Melendez,
in the service of Philip II, of Spain, was on his way to Florida with a
fleet and army, for the purpose of driving out the Huguenots from
Florida, and to settle it with good Catholics. Arriving in Florida, he
massacred Ribault and all the company, excepting Laudoniere and a
few others who escaped to France. Melendez now built three forts
on the river of May, and strongly garrisoned them with Spanish sol
diers. He also proceeded to the south, and discovered the harbor of
St. Augustine, and laid the foundations of the city of that name, the
oldest by more than forty years of any within the limits of the
United States, east of the Mississippi river.
In 1568, Chevalier Gourgues, of Gascony, in France, hearing of the
massacre of his countrymen in Florida, determined to avenge their
death. He, accordingly, at his own expense, fitted out three frigates
with one hundred and fifty soldiers 'and volunteers, and eighty chosen
mariners and sailed to Florida. Although the Spaniards were four
hundred in number in the three forts on the River of May, Gourgues
succeeded in destroying the fortifications, and in killing most of the
Spaniards. Not being in a situation to keep possession, the French
returned to France.
24 OUTLINE HISTORY.
FIRST ATTEMPT OF THE ENGLISH TO FOUND A COLONY IN AMERICA.
The first attempt at colonization in America, by the English, was
made by Sir Humphrey Gilbert, in 1579, under the patronage of
Queen Elizabeth. After he had put to sea on his first voyage, he
was obliged to return. In the second, he reached St. Johns in New
foundland, where he took possession of the country for his sovereign,
by raising a pillar inscribed with the British arms. He also took
measures to secure to the English the fisheries on the banks which
have since proved so valuable. From thence he sailed south-westerly
to the latitude of the mouth of the Kennebec. There the largest of
his three vessels struck, and all her crew perished. Gilbert then set
his face toward England, personally, in the smallest of his remaining
vessels, a barge of only ten tuns ; for he ever generously refused to
put any man to a peril he was himself unwilling to share. The pas
sage was stormy, but his noble and pious mind undoubtedly found
comfort in the reflection he uttered to his companions in a time of
danger. " We are as near heaven at sea as on land." During the
night the lights of his little bark suddenly vanished, and he was heard
of no more.
THE ENGLISH ATTEMPT TO FOUND A COLONY IN CAROLINA.
In 1584, Queen Elizabeth by patent granted to Sir Walter Raleigh
authority to discover, occupy and govern "remote, heathen, and bar
barous countries" not previously possessed by any Christian prince or
people. Under this commission, two ships commanded by Amidas
and Barlow sailed for America, where they arrived in July, 1584.
They landed at Roanoke, took possession of the country for the
crown of England, and in honor of the virgin queen, named it Vir
ginia. On their return they gave such a flattering account of their
discoveries, that Sir Richard Grenville was sent the next year to begin
a settlement.
The adventurers under Grenville, to the number of one hundred
and seven, fixed their residence on the island of Roanoke, on the
coast of what is now North Carolina, where they were left in charge
of Mr. Lane. These persons rambled into the country, without due
caution, or provoked the Indians by their lawless conduct, so that
many were cut off by them; while others perished from want. The
survivors were taken to England by Sir Francis Drake, after his suc
cessful expedition against the Spaniards.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 25
Within a fortnight after the first colony had left Roanoke, Sir
Richard Grenville arrived with provisions and an additional number of
settlers. Not finding the former colony, he left fifteen of his crew to
retain possession of the island, and returned to England. In 1587,
Sir Walter Raleigh equipped three vessels, and sent another company
of one hundred and fifty adventurers to Virginia. He constituted
John White governor, who, remaining about one month, returned to
England to solicit supplies for the colony. Before he departed, his
daughter, Mrs. Dare, gave birth to a female infant, the first child of
English parents born in America. The infant was baptized by the
name of Virginia. Owing to the war with Spain, no supplies were
sent to the colony for three years. In 1590, when Governor White
returned, no Englishmen were to be found, and it was evident that
they had perished through want, or had been killed by the savages.
The last adventurers, therefore, returned, arid all further attempts to
establish a colony in Virginia were postponed.
VOYAGE OF GOSNOLD TO THE NEW ENGLAND COAST.
The successive misfortunes withdrew for several years the attention
of the English from this distant country. In 1602, Bartholomew Gos-
nold made a voyage to America. Instead of taking the circuitous but
usual route by the West India Islands, he steered directly west from
England, shortening the voyage about one third, and arrived in May
on the coast of Massachusetts. Taking a large number of codfish,
near a cape which extended far into the sea, he gave to it the name of
Cape Cod. Proceeding southerly, he passed Gay Head, entered Buz
zard's Bay, and upon an island he erected a small fort; then, after
trading with the Indians, he returned home.
FORMATION OF THE LONDON AND PLYMOUTH COMPANIES.
The report of this voyage revived the spirit of adventure. In 1603,
and 1605, two voyages were made — Penobscot and Massachusetts, and
the rivers between them were discovered. An extensive scheme of
colonization was adopted, of which Mr. Richard Hakluyt was the most
active promoter. An association was formed for the purpose of send
ing colonies to America. Upon application to King James, he, by
letters patent, in 1606, divided the country of Virginia, extending from
South Carolina to the northern boundary of Maine, into two districts,
and constituted two companies for planting colonies within them.
26 OUTLINE HISTORY.
The southern district, called South Virginia, was gi anted to Sir
Thomas Gates and his associates, mostly residents of London, and,
therefore, styled the LONDON COMPANY. The northern section, called
North Virginia, was granted to Thomas Hanham and his associates,
who were styled the PLYMOUTH COMPANY. The members of these com
panies were principally merchants, whose objects were the extension
of commerce and the discovery of the precious metals.
SETTLEMENT OF JAMESTOWN BY THE ENGLISH.
By a second charter, in 1609, King James incorporated the London
Company with full powers of government in America. A council was
appointed resident in England, with powers to appoint the governor
and other officers of the Virginia Company. Under the first patent
the London Company sent Capt. Newport to Virginia, who arrived
there in April, 1607. Entering Chesapeake Bay, he gave name to
Cape Henry, sailed into James River, and began a plantation, called
Jamestown, in which he left one hundred and four persons, and re
turned to England. The next year he carried one hundred and twenty
persons to join the colony, with supplies of provisions.
In 1609, Sir George Somers and Sir Thomas Gates, with a number
of ships and five hundred adventurers, consisting of men, women and
children, sailed for Virginia. On their voyage they were overtaken
by a storm, by which one of their ships was cast on one of the unin
habited islands of Bermuda : the passengers and crew remained there
for several months. With such materials as they had saved from their
ship, they built a small pinnace, and then sailed for Virginia. Find
ing the colony reduced by sickness and want, they resolved to abandon
the country, and actually sailed for England. But the next day, meet
ing with Lord Delaware with fresh supplies, they all returned and pro
secuted the planting of the colony. In 1611, Sir Thomas Dale ar
rived with three hundred additional settlers, and the colony was firmly
established.
THE DUTCH FOUND THE COLONY OF NEW NETHERLANDS.
In 1607, Henry Hudson, an Englishman, in the Dutch service, sailed
in quest of a North-west Passage, and penetrated as far north as to
the 80th degree of latitude. From him were named the strait and bay
at the north of Labrador. He made a second voyage the next year,
and sailed along the coast southward, and discovered the river which
OUTLINE HISTORY. 27
bears his name. The Dutch East India Company then obtained a
patent for an exclusive trade on the River Hudson. In pursuance of
which, a number of trading adventurers built a fort and trading-house
on the spot where Albany now stands, which they called Fort Orange.
At the same period another fort and trading-house was established on
the south-west point of Manhattan Island, which they named New
Amsterdam : the whole colony received the name of New Netherlands.
ORIGIN OF THE NAME, NEW ENGLAND, AND FIRST ATTEMPT AT SETTLEMENT
BY THE ENGLISH.
In 1614, Capt. John Smith, so distinguished in the history of Vir
ginia, was sent with two ships from England to North Virginia, with
instructions to remain in the country, and to keep possession. In
April he reached the Island of Monahigon, in latitude 43° 4". After
building seven boats, he, in one of them, with eight men, ranged the
coast east and west from Penobscot to Cape Cod, and bartered with
the natives for beaver and other furs. By this voyage he made a profit
of nearly fifteen hundred pounds. On his return to England, he drew a
map of the country from the observations he had made, and presented
it to King Charles, who was so well pleased with it that he directed
that it should be called New England.
Captain Smith left one of his vessels under the command of Captain
Hunt, with orders to complete her lading on the coast, and then pro
ceed to Malaga, in Spain. Hunt, under the pretense of trade, enticed
upward of twenty of the natives on board of his ship, put them under
hatches, and carried them to Spain, where he sold them as slaves.
This perfidious act disposed the natives in that part of the country to
revenge the injury on the countrymen of the offender; and the English
were obliged to suspend their trade and projected settlements.
ORIGIN OF THE PURITANS.
About the period of the first English settlement in America, a re
spectable body of Protestants, in England, were dissatisfied with the
religious state of things in that country : Queen Elizabeth took violent
and arbitrary measures to enforce uniformity in church discipline and
ceremonies. Many of her subjects, though professing the same doc
trines as those held by the established church of England, were averse
to observing all its rites and services : some of these they deemed were
too much like those used by the Catholics, which they believed were
28 OUTLINE HISTORY.
unscriptural. For their zeal in preserving purity of worship they re
ceived the name of Puritans.
THE PUKITANS EMBARK FOR AMERICA.
Many of the Puritans, in consequence of the persecutions they en
dured, were obliged to leave their native country. Of this number
were John Robinson and his congregation, who left England in 1608,
took up their residence in Amsterdam, and the next year removed to
Leyden, in Holland. Finding that country unfavorable for the reli
gious education of their children, they resolved to emigrate to America,
where they could lay the foundations of a Christian commonwealth.
In 1620, a part of Mr. Robinson's congregation purchased a small
ship, and hired another in England, called the Mayfldivcr; they sailed
on the 5th of August from Southampton for America ; but on account
of the leakiness of the small ship, they were twice obliged to return.
Abandoning that ship as unfit for service, all the passengers were
crowded into the Mayflower, which sailed from Plymouth on the 6th
of September, and on November 9th they discovered the land of Cape
Cod. Perceiving that they had been carried to the north of their des
tination, they stood to the southward, but falling among shoals, they
were induced to return to the cape, and anchored in the harbor. Be
fore landing they formed themselves into a "body politic," and chose
Mr. John Carver their governor for one year. The following is a copy
of this contract, with the names of the signers :
" In the name of God, Amen. We whose names are under written, the loyal
subjects of our dread sovereign Lord King James, by the grace of God, of Great
Britain, France and Ireland, king, defender of the faith, etc., having undertaken,
for the glory of Gt>d and advancement of the Christian faith and honor of our
king and country, a voyage to plant the first colony in the northern parts of Vir
ginia, do, by these presents, solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and of
one another, covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body politic, for
our better ordering and preservation, and furtherance of the ends aforesaid ; and
by virtue hereof do enact, constitute, and frame such just and equal laws and or
dinances, acts, constitutions, and offices, from time to time, as shall be thought
most meet and convenient for the general good of the colony, unto which wo
promise all due subjection and obedience. In witness whereof we have hereunto
subscribed our names, at Cape Cod, the llth day of November, in the year of tho
reign of our sovereign Lord King James of England, France and Ireland, tho
eighteenth, and of Scotland the fifty-fourth, Anno Domini 1620."
This comnact was subscribed in the following order by •
OUTLINE HISTORY.
29
No. in Family.
No. in
Family.
Mr. John Carver, f 8
John Rowland, (of Car
Mr. William Bradford, f 2
ver's family).
Mr. Edward Winslow, f 5
Mr. Stephen Hopkins
,t 8
Mr. William Brewster, f 6
*Edward Tilly, f
4
Mr. Isaac Allerton, f 6
*John Tilly, |
3
Capt. Miles Standish, f 2
Francis Cook,
2
John Aldcn, 1
•^Thomas Rogers,
2
Mr. Samuel Fuller, 2
*Thomas Tinker, f
3
#Mr. Christopher Mar
*John Ridgdale, f
2
ling 4
*Edward Fuller, ^
3
*Mr. William Mullins, f 5
#John Turner,
3
*Mr. William White, f 5
Francis Eaton, f
3
(Besides a son born in
* James Chilton, f
3
Cape Cod harbor, and
#John Crackston,
2
named Peregrine).
John Billington, f
4
Mr. Richard Warren, 1
#Moses Fletcher,
1
No. in Family
*John Goodman, 1
#Dcgory Priest, 1
^Thomas Williams, 1
Gilbert Winslow, 1
#Edward Margeson, 1
Peter Brown, 1
^Richard Britterige, 1
George Soule, (of Edward
Wirislow's family).
^Richard Clarke, 1
Richard Gardiner, 1
#John Allerton, 1
#Thomas English, 1
Edward Dotey, Edward
Leicester (both of Ste
phen Hopkins' family).
This brief, and comprehensive, and simple instrument established a most impor
tant principle, a principle which is the foundation of all the democratic institu
tions of America, and is the basis of the republic ; and, however it may be ex
panded and complicated in our various constitutions, however unequally power
may be distributed in the different branches of our various governments, has im
parted to each its strongest and most striking characteristic.
Many philosophers have since appeared, who have, in labored, treatises, endea
vored to prove the doctrine, that the rights of man are inalienable, and nations have
bled to defend and enforce them, yet in this dark age, the age of despotism and
superstition, when no tongue dared to assert, and no pen to write, this bold and
novel doctrine, which was then as much at defiance with common opinion as with
actual power, of which the monarch was then held to be the sole fountain, and the
theory was universal that all popular rights were granted by the crown — in this
remote wilderness, among a small and unknown band of wandering outcasts, the
principle that the will of the majority of the people shall govern, was first conceived,
and was first practically exemplified.
The pilgrims, from their notions of primitive Christianity, the force of circum
stances, and that pure moral feeling which is the offspring of true religion, dis
covered a truth in the science of government which had been concealed for ages.
On the bleak shore of a barren wilderness, in the midst of desolation, with the
blast of winter howling around them, and surrounded with dangers in their most
awful and appalling forms, the pilgrims of Leyden laid the foundation of American
liberty. — Baylies, vol. i, p. 29.
THE PURITANS FOUND A COLONY AT PLYMOUTH.
When the Puritan cSlony arrived on the coast of Massachusetts the
weather was wintry, and they were undetermined on a spot for their
settlements. Parties were dispatched to explore the country, which,
after great suffering from cold, rain and snow, found a harbor. There
f Those with this mark brought their wives.
* Those who died before the end of the next March are distinguished by an asterisk.
30 OUTLINE HISTORY
they landed on the 22d of December, 1620, and named the place Ply
mouth, from the name of the last town they had left in England. The
anniversary of their landing is still celebrated by the descendants of
the pilgrim fathers, as a festival, in several prominent places in this
country.
GRANT OF PATENT OF NEW ENGLAND TO THE DUKE OF LENOX.
The same month that the Plymouth settlers arrived in America,
King James granted a patent to the Duke of Lenox and others, in
corporating with the style of the "Council established at Plymouth, in
the county of Devon, for the planting and governing of New England
in America." The limits of the grants to them were, " from forty to
forty-eight degrees of latitude, throughout the main lands from sea to
sea," with the isles adjoining, provided they were not occupied by any
other Christian prince or state, and on the condition of paying to the
crown a fifth of the gold and silver ore they should find and mine.
By this patent, the territory granted, which had before been called
NORTH VIRGINIA, received by royal authority the name of NEW ENG
LAND ; from this instrument were derived all the subsequent grants
made of the several parts of the territory.
VARIOUS GRANTS OF LAND.
In 1621, the Council of Plymouth granted to John Mason all the
land from Salem to the Merrimac, extending inward to the heads of
the rivers. This district was called Mariana. In 1622, the council
assigned another grant to Gorges and Mason jointly, all the lands be
tween the Merrimac and Sagadahoc, extending westward to the rivers
of Canada, which district was called Laconia. In 1628, the Plymouth
Company granted to Sir Henry Rosewell and others all the lands lying
between a line three miles north of the Merrimac, and a line three
miles south of every part of Charles River, and of the Bay of Massa
chusetts throughout the main lands "from the Atlantic to the South
Sea." They also obtained a charter from the* crown of England, by
which the company was erected into a corporation, with ample powers
of government. Massachusetts was settled under this charter.
In 1630, the council for planting New England, granted to Governor
Bradford of Plymouth, and his associates, a patent of a tract of land
extending from a rivulet called Cohasset, to Narraganset River, and
westward to a country called Paconokit ; and also a tract of fifteen
OUTLINE HISTORY. 3|
miles on each side of the Kennebec, with fall powers of colonial gov
ernment.
In 1631, the Earl of Warwick, one of the Plymouth company, grant
ed to Lord Say, and Seal and others, a patent of the territory in New
England extending westward of the River Narraganset forty leagues,
in a straight line near the sea shore, and all the lands of and within
that breadth to the South Sea.
The shores of that part of America, extending from the River Pas-
catagua to the Bay of Fundy, had been discovered by many of the
first voyagers, both English and French. The grant of the French
king to De Monts, in 1603, covered the lands from the fortieth to the
forty-sixth degree of latitude, and of course included Maine; but the
French settlements were north and east of this district. In 1639, Sir
Fernando Gorges obtained a grant by royal patent of all the lands
between Pascatagua and Newichawanoc on the south and west, and
Sagadahoc and Kennebec on the east, extending one hundred and
twenty leagues north-westward into the country, with the isles adjacent,
and Martha's Vineyard. This charter gave that territory the title of
the "Province of Maine," by which it was known afterward.
GRANT TO LORD BALTIMORE.
In 1632, Charles I granted to Cecilius Calvert, Baron of Baltimore,
in Ireland, the lands in America between Watkins' Point in the Chesa
peake, and a line under the fortieth degree of latitude on the Dela
ware, on the north ; which north line was extended to the highest
source of the Potomac, and thence by that river to its mouth, and
across the bay to Watkins' — to be held by him and his heirs in fee
simple. This tract, named Maryland, was settled at first by Catholics
from Ireland.
SETTLEMENTS ON THE DELAWARE.
It is difficult to ascertain the exact date of the first plantations on
the Delaware. The Dutch and Swedes began settlements there within
a few years after the Dutch West India Company obtained a grant of
New Netherlands. Both claimed the territory, and a controversy arose
between the Dutch governor of New Netherlands and the Swedish
settlers, which continued many years. The plantations on the Dela
ware fell within the patent of the Duke of York in 1664, or were con
sidered within its limits. After the grant of Pennsylvania to William
Penn in 1682, the Duke of York granted and released to him all his
32 OUTLINE HISTORY.
claims to the lands within William Penn's patent, and the lands about
New Castle, for a circle of twelve miles, and south to the Hoar Kills.
CONFLICTING GRANTS.
After the English had conquered New Netherlands from the Dutch
in 1664, King Charles II granted to his brother James, Duke of York,
a tract of land beginning at Nova Scotia and extending along the coast
to Pemaquid, and to the head of that river ; thence to the Kennebec
and northward to the River of Canada; also Long Island and Hudson's
River, and all the lands from the west side of Connecticut River to the
east side of Delaware Bay, with Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket.
To this territory the duke gave the name of New York. The bound
aries are hardly to be understood ; but this grant of lands, with those
before granted to others on the Connecticut, occasioned many and
warm controversies between the colonies of New York, Connecticut,
New Hampshire and Vermont, some of which lasted more than a cen
tury.
GRANT OF THE DUKE OF YORK, AND SETTLEMENT OF NEW JERSEY.
In 1664, the Duke of York sold and confirmed by deed of release
to Lord Berkeley and Sir George Carteret, all that tract of land to the
westward of Long Island and Manhattan, between the ocean and the
Hudson on the east, and the Delaware on the west, from Cape May to
the north branch of the Delaware in forty-one degrees and forty min
utes of latitude by the name of New Cesaria, or New Jersey. Under
this grant settlements were soon begun, and Philip Carteret was ap
pointed first governor. In 1676, this tract was divided, Sir George
Carteret taking the eastern half, and one Byllinge and others, the pur
chasers under Lord Berkeley, taking the other half. The dividing line
was agreed to be a straight line from a point on the east side of Little
Egg Harbor, to the northernmost branch of the Delaware. This line
was not run for many years, controversies and riots therefore arose be
tween the different claimants ; thence also the distinction between East
and West Jersey. These disputes continued till the Revolution.
In 1663, the Earl of Clarendon, and seven others, obtained from
Charles II a patent of the lands in America lying between the thirty-
first and thirty-sixth degrees of north latitude. Two years after, this
grant was extended from the twenty-ninth degree to the thirty-sixth
and a half, and between these parallels from the Atlantic to the Pacific
Ocean, of this tract, the grantees were constituted the absolute lords
OUTLINE HISTORY. 33
find proprietors. For the government of the country they procured a
form of constitution, drawn up by the celebrated John Locke. This
instrument appeared well on paper, but not being adapted to the cir
cumstances of the country it was not established.
SETTLEMENT OF SOUTH CAROLINA.
In 1670, Captain Sayle, with a small company, arrived at Port Royal,
and begun a settlement, but he soon fell a victim to disease. The next
year the settlers removed to the banks of Ashly River, and begun
what has been called Old Charleston. In 1680 they begun the present
city of Charleston. About the year 1672, the settlements were aug
mented by a number of Dutch inhabitants from New York. A few
years later a considerable number of French Protestants, in conse
quence of the persecutions which followed the revocation of the edict
of Nantz in 1685, left France and settled in Carolina.
GRANT TO WILLIAM PENN AND SETTLEMENT OF PENNSYLVANIA.
In 1681, Charles II granted to William Penn a tract of land extend
ing from a line twelve miles northward from Newcastle to the forty-
third degree of latitude, and from the Delaware westward five degrees
of longitude. Penn took possession of the country, purchased the
soil of the natives, introduced a colony of his friends, and called the
tract Pennsylvania. He gave free toleration to all religious sects, and
thus invited a rapid settlement of the province.
FIRST PLANTATIONS IN NORTH CAROLINA — SETTLEMENT OF GEORGIA.
The people of Virginia began the first plantations within Carolina
by gradually extending their settlements southward of Jamestown.
In 1665, Sir J. Yeamaus, with a company from Barbadocs, formed a
settlement on Cape Fear River. This, with the Virginia plantations
along the Chowan River and Albemarle Sound, were the first settle
ments within North Carolina. Georgia was first settled in 1733, for
the purpose of furnishing the means of subsistence to many needy
persons. Governor Oglethorpe was one of the trustees who repaired
to Savannah River, on the banks of which he began the settlement of
Savannah. The territory was called Georgia from the name of the
king, and was the latest settled of any within the thirteen original
States.
34 OUTLINE HISTORY
INDIAN WARS.
Nearly all the States of the American Union have suffered more or
less from the ravages of Indian wars. They commenced at the first
settlement in the country, and have been continued down to the present
time.
WAR WITH THE INDIANS OF VIRGINIA.
In the year 1622, the settlers in Virginia lost three hundred and
forty-nine of their numbers by a sudden massacre. The Indians for
some time before lived on very familiar terms with the English; but
in the spring of that year they secretly plotted to exterminate the
colony. It appears that a young Indian chief had murdered an Eng
lishman by the name of Morgan for some toys which he was carrying
to sell to his people. The English attempted to save him, but he mak
ing an obstinate resistance was killed. To revenge his death, a con
spiracy was formed, when the Indians fell upon the inhabitants who
were unprepared, and killed all they found. Most of the plantations
had to be abandoned, and the settlers retired to Jamestown for safety,
A furious war ensued, in which the Indians were slain without mercy,
THE PEQUOT WAR.
The settlers at Plymouth and Massachusetts had no trouble with the
Indians for many years. But to the westward of Narraganset Bay in
Rhode Island, lived several powerful tribes, who had not been reduced
by the mortal sickness which had a few years before the arrival of the
Plymouth settlers, swept off such a large portion of the more eastern
Indians. The Pequots, a tribe in the eastern part of Connecticut,
were the most warlike, ferocious and formidable. In 1634, they killed
Captain Stone and his companions, who were sailing up the Connecti
cut River; and in 1636, Captain Oldham was killed at Block Island,
where he had gone to trade. The next year they went up the Connec
ticut in canoes, and at Wethersfield killed nine persons, and took two
young women prisoners. These and other murders and outrages, in
duced the New England colonies to unite in an expedition against them.
Early in May, 1637, Captain Mason, with ninety men from Hartford,
Windsor, and Wethersfield, in Connecticut, went down the river and
were joined by Captain Underbill, at Saybrook, and by Uncas, sachem
of the Mobeagans. From that place they sailed round to the Narra
ganset shore, where they were joined by five hundred Indians of that
OUTLINE HISTORY. 35
tribe, who were the enemies of the Pequots. Captain Mason marched
by moonlight to the hill on which the Pequot fort was built, attacked
it by surprise, set fire to the wigwams, and killed and burnt six or
seven hundred Indians, losing of his party only two men. This victory
was followed up by such a vigilant pursuit of the Pequots, that this
haughty tribe was entirely ruined, and became nearly extinct.
KING PHILIP'S WAR.
In 1675, Philip, sachem of the Wampanoags, who lived at Mount
Hope, in Rhode Island, began the most general and destructive war
ever sustained by the infant colonies. Philip, a proud and high minded
chieftain, undertook the war in hopes of exterminating the English,
who were extending their settlements on every side. By his influence
he succeeded in drawing into the conflict most of the tribes in New
England.
The war having commenced, Philip and his allies hovered around the
exposed settlements, burnt several frontier towns, killed numbers of
the inhabitants, and slew several parties of soldiers who went to the;>
defense. The Narragansets, with whom the English had formed i
treaty in July, 1675, were found secretly aiding the hostile Indians
To punish this perfidious tribe, it was determined to reduce them by a
winter expedition. For this purpose, about one thousand men, under
Governor Winslow, marched late in December, wading in deep snow,
and attacked their fort, which was situated in a swamp. The Narra
gansets being furnished with fire arms, made great havoc among the
officers who first entered the fort. Six captains and eighty men were
killed, one hundred and fifty were wounded, and all suffered greatly from
frozen limbs and other hardships. Their success, however, was com
plete. The fort was taken, five or six hundred wigwams were burnt
and destroyed, and about one thousand Indians are supposed to have
perished.
Notwithstanding the severe blow to Indians by the destruction at
the Narraganset fort, King Philip, as he was called, refused to listen
to any terms of peace with the English. He still continued to attack
and burn the settlements of the whites, and to kill the inhabitants; but
soon the tide of war began to turn against him. Many of his faithful
followers were either killed or captured, and he himself was hunted
like a wild beast from place to place. He was finally shot through the
heart by a friendly Indian under the command of Captain Church, near
Mount Hope, as he was endeavoring to make his escape from his pur-
3
36 OUTLINE HISTORY.
suers, on the 12th of August, 1676. This event put an end to the
war, and extinguished the Indian power in this part of New England.
Thus closed a most distressing era, during which about six hundred
of the inhabitants of New England, composing the flower of its strength,
were either killed in battle, or were murdered by the enemy ; twelve
or thirteen towns swept away, about six hundred buildings, mostly
dwelling houses, destroyed, and a heavy debt incurred.
THE FRENCH INSTIGATE THE INDIANS TO WAR AGAINST THE SETTLERS.
On the accession of William, Prince of Orange, to the throne of
England, war ensued between England and France, and as Canada then
belonged to France, the French instigated the Indians to hostilities
against the colonies. On the night of February 8, 1690, a party of
French and Indians from Montreal, finding the inhabitants of Schenec-
tady asleep and unguarded, broke in upon them, murdered sixty-three,
and took twenty-seven prisoners. They also burnt the houses, killed
most of the cattle and horses, and marched off with the remainder of
the horses laden with plunder. Those of the people who escaped, fled
nearly naked toward Albany, about fifteen miles distant, amid the snow,
in a severe night, twenty -five of whom lost their limbs by the frost.
The inhabitants in the eastern part of New England suffered much
from the Indians from the year 1690, to 1698. The brave and venera
ble Major Waldron, and twenty-two others, were taken by surprise,
and slain, at Dover, in New Hampshire. The plantation at Salmon
Falls was surprised by a party of French and Indians, under Hertel, a
Frenchman. Thirty men were killed, and fifty-four women and chil
dren captured. Such was the distress of the times, from the incur
sions of the enemy, that the inhabitants had to abandon the defenseless
parts of the country, and retire to the garrisoned towns. These ca
lamities were continued till the peace between England and France, in
1698, when Frontenac, the French commander in Canada, ceased to
instigate the savages.
In 1702, during Queen Anne's reign, war was again proclaimed be
tween England and France, and the American colonies were again ex
posed to all the horrors of Indian warfare. In February, 1704, Deer-
field, in Massachusetts, was surprised and burnt by a party of two
hundred Frenchmen, and one hundred and forty-two Indians. About
forty-seven of the inhabitants were killed, and one hundred and twelve
were made pfisoners, among whom were the Rev. John Williams and
his family. New Hampshire, and especially Maine, was exposed to
OUTLINE HISTORY. 37
the murderous inroads of these ferocious savages. In August, 1708,
a party of Indians, headed by Frenchmen, assaulted Haverhill, on the
Merrimac, burnt some of the houses, slew thirty or forty of the in
habitants, among whom was Mr. Rolfe, their minister.
UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPTS TO INVADE CANADA.
As the colonies could not be safe from the ravages of the French
and Indians, while Canada and Nova Scotia were under the govern
ment of France, Massachusetts solicited, and the Queen granted, a
large naval force to aid in the conquest of those provinces. In 1709,
the New England colonies, with New York, raised about two thousand
five hundred men, who were commanded by General Nicholson. This
force was marched near Lake George, and there waited to hear
of the arrival of the expected fleet at Boston. The fleet did not
arrive, and the troops lay at Wood Creek till autumn. While en
camped, they were attacked with a malignant disease, by which many
died, and the remainder compelled to withdraw, and thus this expen
sive expedition was frustrated.
In 1711, General Nicholson procured, of the Queen, a fleet of men-
of-war, and transports under admiral Walker, for aiding in the con
quest of Canada. This fleet arrived in Boston in June, and although
not expected, the colonies made great exertion to second the expedi
tion. The whole force, when the British and colonial troops were
united, amounted to seven thousand men. General Nicholson went
to Albany, intending, with additional forces, to join Admiral Walker
before Quebec. The fleet sailed from Boston on the 30th of July, but
met with fogs and tempestuous weather, near the mouth of the St.
Lawrence, in which eight or nine transports, with about one thousand
men, were lost by shipwreck. This put an end to the expedition, the
admiral sailed to England, and the colonial troops returned. The
peace of Utrecht, signed March 3, 1713, put an end to hostilities, and
peace continued till 1739.
EXPEDITION AGAINST THE SPANISH WEST INDIES.
In 1740, war having been declared by Great Britain against Spain,
expeditions were undertaken against the Spanish West Indies, and
requisitions were made on the colonies to assist in these enterprises.
Four regiments were raised from the American colonies, who were at
the charge of levy money, provisions, and transports for their several
quotas. Admiral Vernon, the British commander, found himself at
OUTLINE HISTORY.
the head of the most formidable fleet and army ever sent to the West
India Islands. The whole fleet consisted of twenty-nine ships of the
line, with nearly the same number of frigates, besides fire ships, etc
The number of seamen amounted to fifteen thousand, and the land
forces twelve thousand. Vernon took and plundered Porto Bello,
and proceeded with his fleet, and the land forces under General
Wentworth, to attack Carthagena. He demolished the forts and cas
tles in the harbor, but the attack on the town by General Wentworth,
was unsuccessful. In July, the combined forces made an attempt on
Cuba, but by an extraordinary sickness" and mortality, they were not
able to accomplish anything of importance. More than a thousand
men died per day, for several days. Of nearly one thousand men
from New England, not one hundred returned — of five hundred men
from Massachusetts, fifty only returned.
CONQUEST OF LOUISBUKG.
After the peace of Utrecht, the French built the town of Louisburg
on the Island of Cape Breton, and fortified it with a rampart of stone,
from thirty to thirty-six feet high, and a ditch eighty feet wide.
There were embrasures for one hundred and forty-eight cannon and
six mortars. On an island at the entrance of the harbor, was planted
a battery of thirty cannon.
At the bottom of the harbor, opposite the entrance, was the grand
or royal battery of twenty-eight cannon, each of forty-two pound
caliber. The entrance
B R E T
of tne town on tne
side was over a draw
bridge, near which was
a circular battery of six
teen guns. These works
had been twenty-five
years in building; and,
though not finished, had
cost the French not less
than thirty millions of
Map of Lonisburg and vicinity. livreS. It Was deemed
so strong and impregnable as to be called the "Dunkirk of America."
This place was a safe harbor and station for French shipping of all
descriptions, and its reduction was of the highest importance to the
New England colonies. The following account of its conquest is
from Holmes? Annals:
OUTLINE HISTORY. 39
Under these impressions, governor Shirley, of Massachusetts, had written to the
British ministry in the autumn of the last year, soliciting assistance for the
preservation of Nova Scotia, and the acquisition of Cape Breton. Early in Jan
uary, before he received any answer or orders from England, he requested the
members of the general court, that they would lay themselves under an oath of
secrecy, to receive from him a proposal of very great importance. They readily
took the oath; and he communicated to them the plan which he had formed of at
tacking Louisburg. The proposal was at first rejected; but it was finally carried
by a majority of one voice. Circular letters were immediately dispatched to all
the colonies, as far as Pennsylvania,* requesting their assistance, and an embargo
on their ports. Forces were promptly raised; and William Pepperrell, Esq., of
Kittery, was appointed commander of the expedition. This officer, on board the
Shirley Snow, Captain Rouse, with the transports under her convoy, sailed from
Nantasket on the 24th of March, and arrived at Canso on the 4th of April.f Here
the troops, joined by those of New Hampshire and Connecticut, amounting col
lectively to upward of four thousand, J were detained three weeks, waiting for the
ice, which environed the Island of Cape Breton, to be dissolved. At length Com
modore Warren, agreeably to orders from England, arrived at Canso in the
Superbe of sixty guns, with three other ships of forty guns each; and, after a con
sultation with the general, proceeded to cruise- before Louisburg. The general
soon after sailed with the whole fleet; and on the 30th of April, coming to anchor
at Chapeaurouge Bay, landed his troops. The next object was to invest the city.
Lieutenant Colonel Vaughan conducted the first column through the woods with
in sight of Louisburg, and saluted the city with three cheers. At the head of a
detachment, chiefly of the New Hampshire troops, he marched in the night to the
north-east part of the harbor, where they burned the warehouses, containing the
naval stores, and staved a large quantity of wine and brandy. The smoke of this
fire, driven by the wind into the grand battery, so terrified the French, that they
abandoned it; and, spiking up the guns, retired to the eity. The next morning
Vaughan took possession of the deserted battery, which he bravely defended.
* All excused themselves from any share in the adventure, excepting Connecticut, New
Hampshire, and Rhode Island. The assembly of Pennsylvania, though it could not be pre
vailed on to take part in an enterprise which appeared desperate ; yet, on receiving infor
mation that Louisburg was taken, and that supplies were wanted, voted £4000 in pro
visions for the refreshment and support of the brave troops which had achieved the action.
Franklin, Pennsylv. 94, Univ. Hist, xli, 33.
•j- Connecticut and Rhode Island consented that their colony sloops should be employed
as crusiers. A small privateer ship of about two hundred tuns, and a snow of less burden,
belonging to Newport, were hired there by Massachusetts; a new snow, Captain Rouse, and
a ship, Captain Snelling, were taken into the service at Boston; and these, with a snow, *
brig, three sloops, and a ship of twenty guns, purchased on the stocks, Captain Tyng, the
commodore, composed the whole naval force.
} Massachusetts forces 3250
New Hampshire . , . . . 304
Connecticut . ..... 516
Total 4070
The Connecticut troops were commanded by Roger Wolcott, lieutenant governor of the
colony, who was the second officer in the army. Rhode Island raised three hundred mou ;
but they did not arrive until the place had surrendered. Hutchinson.
40 OUTLINE HISTORY.
With extreme labor and difficulty cannon were drawn, for fourteen nights suc
cessively, from the landing place through a morass to the camp.* The cannon
left by the enemy were drilled, and turned with good effect on the city, within
which almost every shot lodged, while several fell into the roof of the citadel.
On the 7th of May, a summons was sent in to the commanding officer at Louis-
burg, who refused to surrender the place. The siege was, therefore, still pressed
with activity and vigilance by Commodore Warren and his ships, and with
yigorous perseverance by the land forces. The joint efforts of both were at
length, by the blessing of Heaven, crowned with success. It was a circumstance
favorable to the assailants, that the garrison of Louisburg had been so mutinous
before the siege, that the officers could not trust the men to make a sortie, lest
they should desert. The capture of a French sixty-four gun ship, richly laden
with military stores, and having on board five hundred and sixty men, destined
for the relief of the garrison, threw the enemy into perturbation. -j- A battery,
erected on the high cliff at the lighthouse, greatly annoyed their island battery.
Preparations were evidently making for a general assault. Discouraged by these
adverse events and menacing appearances, Duchambon, the French commander,
determined to surrender; and, on the 16th of June, articles of capitulation were
signed. After the surrender of the city, the French flag was kept flying on the
ramparts ; and several rich prizes were thus decoyed. Two East Indiamen and
one South Sea Ship, estimated at £600,000 sterling, were taken by the squadron
at the mouth of the harbor. This expedition was one of the most remarkable
events in the history of North America. It was hazardous in the attempt, but
successful in the execution. " It displayed the enterprising spirit of New Eng
land; and, though it enabled Britain to purchase a peace, yet it excited her envy
and jealousy against the colonies, by whose exertions it was acquired.''!
The news of this important victory flew through the continent. Considerate
and pious persons remarked, with mingled gratitude and admiration, the coinci-
* The men, with straps over their shoulders, and sinking to their kne'es in mud, per
formed the service which horses or oxen, on such ground, could not have done.
f This French man-of-war, the Vigilant, was taken by Captain Edward Tyng, comman
der of the Massachusetts frigate. Governor Shirley having directed him to procure the lar
gest ship in his power, he had purchased this ship when on the stocks, and nearly ready for
launching. It was a ship of about four hundred tuns, and was soon after launched at Bos
ton. Tyng took the command of her, and was appointed commodore of the fleet. Alden's
Memoir of Edward Tyng, Esq.
J Coll. Mass. Hist. Soc. i, 4 — 60 ; where there is an authentic account of this expedition
from original papers. Hutchinson, ii, c. 4. Douglass, i, 336. Belknap, N. Hamp. ii, 193 —
224. Adams, N. Eng. 208. Trumbull, U. S.i, c. 9. Solicitations were made for a parlia
mentary reimbursement, which, after much difficulty and delay, was obtained. In 1749
the money, granted by parliament for that purpose, arrived at Boston, and was conveyed to
the treasury office. The sum was £183,649 2s. Id. 1-2. It consisted of two hundred and
fifteen chests (three thousand pieces of eight, at a medium, in each chest) of milled pieces
of eight, and one hundred casks of coined copper. There were seventeen cart and truck
loads of the silver, and about ten truck loads of copper. Coll. Mass. Hist. Soc. itt supra.
Brit. Einp. i, 377. Pemberton, MS. Chron. The instructions given by Governor Shirley
to lieutenant general Pepperrell for this expedition, are published in Coll. Mass. Hist. Soc.
if 1 — 11. The plan for the reduction of a regularly constructed fortress " was drawn by a
lawyer, to be executed by a merchant, at the head of a body of husbandmen and me
chanics."
OUTLINE HISTORY. 4^
dence of numerous circumstances and events, on which the success of the under
taking essentially depended. While the enterprise, patriotism, and firmness of
the colonists were justly extolled for projecting and executing a great design, at
tended with hardships and danger never before paralleled in America, it was per
ceived that there was also no small degree of temerity in the attempt, and that its
success was to be ascribed to the manifest favor of divine Providence.
DESTRUCTION OF THE FLEET OF D?ANYILLE.
In 1746, while the New England colonies were projecting new en
terprises against the French, intelligence arrived which threw the
whole country into the utmost consternation. A large fleet from
France, consisting of upward of forty ships of war, under the com
mand of Duke D'Anville, bringing between three and four thousand
regular troops with experienced officers, with all kinds of military
stores, were sent over to the American coast. Their orders were to
retake Louisburg, to destroy Boston, range along the coasts, and cap
ture or distress the English settlements. This force was to be joined
by four ships under M. Conflans, from the West Indies, and seven
teen hundred French and Indians from Canada. The country was
kept in great fear and anxiety for six weeks, when it was relieved by
intelligence of the disabled state of the enemy. By storms, some of
their ships were damaged, and they bore away for the West Indies.
One was condemned and burnt; and another was forced to return to
Brest, by a malignant disease among her crew. The officers were
divided in their opinions, D'Anville either poisoned himself or died in
an apoplectic fit. The second in command, during a delirious fever,
fell on his sword. The French being disconcerted in their original
plans, determined to make an attempt on Annapolis; but having
sailed from Chebucto, now Halifax, they were overtaken by a violent
storm, and what ships escaped destruction, .returned singly to France.
Such an instance of preservation, without the aid of human power,
seldom occurs; and the pious people in the American colonies,
ascribed their deliverence to that Being who, in ancient time, caused
" the stars in their course to fight against Sisera."
POSSESSIONS OF THE FRENCH IN AMERICA.
The treaty of peace, signed at Aix la Chapelle, in 1754, left the
French masters of Canada and Louisiana, the large and almost un
known tract of country on the Mississippi. They knew the value of
America, and had formed the plan of restraining the settlements of
the English. The better to accomplish their designs, they extended
THE
FRENCH, ENGLISH,
AND
Spanish Possessions
IN
NORTH AMERICA
IN 1750.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 43
a chain of fortified places from Canada to Louisiana, in the rear oi the
English colonies. The mother country was alarmed, as well as the
colonies, and suggested the necessity of confederating for the pur
pose of mutual safety.
DR. FRANKLIN'S PLAN OF GOVERNMENT.
In July 1754, commissioners from the northern and middle colonies
met at Albany, and agreed to a plan of union drawn up by Dr. Frank
lin. By this it was proposed that the confederated colonies should
have a general government formed by delegates from the several colo
nies, and appointed by the houses of representatives, once in three
years. This government was to be administered by a president gene
ral, who was to be appointed by the crown once in three years. This
plan was submitted to each of the colonial assemblies, and one to the
king's council; but it shared "the singular fate of being rejected by
both ; by the first, because it was supposed to give too much power to
the representative of the king; and by the last, because it was sup
posed to give too much power to the representatives of the people."
ENCROACHMENT OF THE FRENCH AND MISSION OF WASHINGTON.
The French, continuing their encroachments on lands claimed by
the colonies or the crown of Great Britain, occasioned an order from
the latter to the colonies to resist the French. In November, 1753,
Major, afterward General Washington, was sent by Governor Din-
widdie, of Virginia, to learn the views of the French, who had taken
possession of the territory on the Ohio. By the answer of the French
commander, it appeared that the French government claimed the
country, and were determined to hold possession. The Virginians
then erected a fort on the Monongahela, but it was taken by the
French in 1754. In July, of the same year, Washington, who com
manded about four hundred men, was attacked by superior numbers,
and obliged to capitulate. In 1755, hostilities again commenced be
tween. Great Britain and France, and America became the theater of
operations.
BRADDOCK'S DEFEAT.
In 1755, in order to drive the French from the Ohio, the British
government sent over General Braddock with two regiments to Vir
ginia. Being joined by Colonel Washington, with a body of colonial
troops, they arrived at Fort Cumberland in June. Here Braddock
left Col. Dunbar with eight hundred men, to carry forward the pro-
44 OUTLINE HISTORY.
visions and heavy baggage, while he advanced toward Du Qucsne,
the French fort which stood on the present site of Pittsburg.
Marching along with twelve hundred troops, he fell into an ambus
cade of French and Indians, who, concealed behind trees, fired with
•fatal effect. Braddock and his principal officers were killed, with
about seven hundred men : the remainder were saved by the brave
and skillful conduct of Colonel Washington.
DEFEAT OF DIESKAU.
At the time of Braddock's expedition against the French on the
Ohio, the northern colonies raised a body of about five thousand men
to take Crown Point, a fort fifteen miles north from Ticonderoga.
These troops were placed under the command of Major General,
afterward Sir William Johnson, aided by a body of Indians under
Hendrick, the celebrated chieftain. While they were encamped at
Lake George, waiting for boats to proceed down the lake, the Baron
Dieskau, with a body of French and Indians, advanced by South Bay
with a view to attack and seize the camp at the portage, now called
Fort Edward. Being informed that the place was defended by can
non, and that General Johnson's camp was destitute of large guns,
the baron altered his plan and attacked Johnson's troops. A severe
struggle ensued, and the French were repulsed with the loss of seve
ral hundred men, and the brave Dieskau was severely wounded
and made a prisoner. General Williams, of the colonial troops, and
the brave Hendrick were killed.
EXPEDITION AGAINST THE ACADIANS.
In the same year, 1755, an expedition against Nova Scotia was
conducted by Lieutenant Colonel Monkton, a British officer, and Lieu
tenant Colonel Winslow, with a force of about three thousand men
mostly drawn from Massachusetts. The principal fortress was taken
with little loss. The inhabitants were descendants from the French
settlers, and were called Acadians : they were of a mild, frugal, and
industrious character, about seven thousand in number. They called
themselves Neutrals, but it appears that they had furnished the
French and Indians with intelligence, quarters, and provisions. As
they refused to take the oath of allegiance, it was determined to dis
perse them among the British colonies. To prevent the resettlement
of those who escaped, the country was laid waste and their dwellings
were destroyed.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 45
REVERSES OF THE CAMPAIGNS OF 1756 AND 1757.
Tie campaigns of 1756 and 1757, ended with loss and disgrace to
the British arms. In 1756, Oswego, on Lake Ontario, with a garri
son of one thousand four hundred men, was surrendered to the
French, and in 1757, Fort William Henry, at the south point of Lake
George, was besieged by General Montcalm, and after a brave resist
ance from Colonel Munroe, the commanding officer, it wras surrendered
to the French. Shocking barbarities were committed upon the pris
oners, after they had marched from the fort, by the Indians in the
service of the French.
THE REDUCTION OF LOUISBURG.
In 1758, great efforts were made to subdue the French in America.
Three armies were employed; one commanded by General Amherst,
destined to take Louisburg, which had been surrendered to the
French; one under General Abercrombie to act against Crown Point,
and a third under General Forbes, to drive the French from the Ohio.
A fleet under Admiral Boscawen, and twelve thousand men under
General Amherst, laid siege to Louisburg, which was captured after
a vigorous resistance. Three French ships of the line were burnt in
the harbor, and two were taken. Forty cannon out of fifty-two were
dismounted in the principal bastions, before the besieged consented to
capitulate. The inhabitants of the island were sent to France, and
the prisoners to England; and after the conquest of Canada, in 1760,
the fortifications of Louisburg were reduced to a heap of rubbish.
DEFEAT OF ABERCROMBIE BEFORE TICONDEROGA.
As the reduction of the French forts at Ticonderoga was a point of
great importance to the northern colonies, they made great exer
tions to carry it into execution. For this purpose they raised about
ten thousand men. They were accompanied with between six and
seven thousand regular troops. This army arrived near Ticonderoga.
After disembarking from the batteaux and other boats, the troops had
to march through the woods. Their guides proved unskillful, the
troops became bewildered, and the columns were broken. Lord
Howe, a young officer and idol of the army, advancing at the head of
the right column fell in with an advanced guard of the enemy, by
whom he was killed at their first fire. The main body advanced to
within a short distance from the fort. General Abercrombie, igno-
46
OUTLINE HISTORY.
rant as to its strength, determined to attack it without bringing up
his artillery.
The army advanced to the charge with the greatest intrepidity, and
for more than four hours maintained the attack with incredible obsti
nacy. But the works where the principal attack was made, were
eight or nine feet high, and impregnable even to field pieces; and for
nearly a hundred yards from the breastwork, trees were felled so
thick, and so wrought together with their limbs pointing outward,
that it rendered the approach of the troops, in a great measure, im
possible. In this dreadful situation, under the fire of three thousand
of the enemy, these gallant troops were kept without the least prospect
of success, until nearly two thousand were killed and wounded.
Abercrombie then called off his troops and retreated to his encamp
ment at the south end of Lake George.
SUCCESSES OF THE ENGLISH.
The operations of the British and colonial arms in other places,
were more successful than at Ticonderoga. Fort Frontenac, on the
St. Lawrence, near Lake
Ontario, was taken by the
colonial troops, under Col-
, f4 ^ *" onel Bradstreet. General
Forbes marched from Phil
adelphia with a considerable
body of troops, to attack
the French Fort Du Quesne.
After passing the moun
tains, he detached Colonel
Boquet with two thousand
men, to a position fifty
miles in advance. This of
ficer sent Major Grant forward with eight hundred men, to recon-
noiter the country and fort. The detachment was met by a superior
French force and defeated with the loss of Colonel Grant and three
hundred men. The French, however, abandoned Fort Du Quesne, and
retreated down the Ohio. General Forbes took possession of the
place, and named it Pittslurg, in honor of the British statesman,
which name it has retained to this day. In 1759, General Amherst
took possession of Ticonderoga and Crown Point, they being aban
doned by the enemy. The French fort at Niagara was besieged by
OUTLINE HISTORY 47
General Prideaux, and after that officer was killed, it surrendered to
Sir William Johnson.
CAPTURE OF QUEBEC.
The year 1759 was distinguished by the capture of Quebec, by
General James Wolfe. The following account of this important event
is from Holmes' American Annals:
Gen. Wolfe having embarked about eight thousand men at Louisburg, under con
voy of Admirals Saunders and Holmes, safely landed them toward the end
of June a few leagues below the city of Quebec, on the Isle of Orleans, lying
in the St. Lawrence. From this position he had a distinct view of the difficulties
and dangers of the projected enterprise. Quebec is chiefly built on a steep rock on
the northern bank of the St. Lawrence ; and, besides its natural strength, is defend
ed by the River St. Charles, which, passing by it on the east, empties into the St.
Lawrence immediately below. the town, and places it in a kind of peninsula. In the
St. Charles, whose channel is rough, and whose borders are intersected with ra
vines, there were several armed vessels and floating batteries; and a strong boom
was drawn across its mouth. On its eastern bank a formidable French army,
strongly entrenched, extended its encampment to the River Montmorency, having
its rear covered by an nlmost impenetrable wood; and at the head of this army
was the intrepid Montcalm. To attempt a siege of the town, in such circumstances,
seemed repugnant to all the maxims of war; but, resolved to do whatever was
practicable for the reduction of the place, Wolfe took possession of Point Levi, on
the southern bank of the St. Lawrence, and there erected batteries against it.
These batteries, though they destroyed many houses, made but little impression on
the works, which were too strong, and too remote, to be essentially affected; their
elevation, at the same time, placing them beyond the reach of the fleet.
The British general, convinced of the impossibility of reducing the place, unless
he could erect batteries on the north side of the St. Lawrence, soon decided on
more daring measures. The northern shore of the St. Lawrence, to a considera
ble distance above Quebec, is so bold and rocky as to render a landing, in the face
of an enemy, impracticable. If an attempt were made below the town, the River
Montmorency passed, and the French driven from their entrenchments, the St.
Charles would present a new, and perhaps insuperable barrier. With every ob
stacle fully in view, Wolfe, heroically observing that "a victorious army finds no
difficulties," resolved to pass the Montmorency, and bring Montcalm to an engage
ment. In pursuance of this resolution, thirteen companies of English grenadiers,
and part of the second battalion of royal Americans, were landed at the mouth of
that river, while two divisions, under Generals Townshend and Murray, prepared to
cross it higher up. Wolfe's plan was, to attack first a redoubt, close to the water's
edge, apparently beyond reach of the fire from the enemy's entrenchments, in the
belief that the French, by attempting to support that fortification, would put it in
his power to bring on a general engagement; or, if they should submit to the loss
of the redoubt, that he could afterward examine their situation with coolness, and
advantageously regulate his future operations. On the approach of the British
troops, the redoubt was evacuated ; and the general, observing some confusion in
48 OUTLINE HISTORY.
the French camp, changed his original plan, and determined not to delay an attack.
Orders were immediately dispatched to the Generals Townshend and Murray, to
keep their divisions in readiness for fording the river; and the grenadiers and royal
Americans were directed to form on the beach, until they could be properly sus
tained. These troops, not waiting for support, rushed impetuously toward the en
emy's entrenchments ; but they were received with so strong and steady a fire from
the French musketry, that they were instantly thrown into disorder, and obliged
to seek shelter at the redoubt, which the enemy had abandoned. Detained here
awhile by a dreadful thunder storm, they were still within reach of a severe fire
from the French ; and many gallant officers, exposing their persons in attempting
to form the troops, were killed. The plan of attack being effectually disconcerted,
the English general gave orders for repassing the river, and returning to the Isle
of Orleans. This premature attempt on the enemy was attended with the loss
of near five hundred men.
Assured of the impracticability of approaching Quebec on the side of the Mont-
morency, while Montcalm chose to maintain his station, Wolfe detached General
Murray with one thousand two hundred men in transports, to co-operate with Ad
miral Holmes above the town, in endeavoring to destroy the French shipping, and
to distract the enemy by descents on the bank of the river. After two unsuccess
ful attempts to land on the northern shore, Murray, by a sudden descent at Cham-
baud, burned a valuable magazine, filled with clothing, arms, ammunition, and pro
visions; but the French ships were secured in such a manner, as not to be ap
proached either by the fleet or army. On his return to the British camp, he
brought the consolatory intelligence, received from his prisoners, that Niagara was
taken; that Ticonderoga and Crown Point were abandoned; and that General Am-
herst was making preparations to attack the enemy at Isle Aux Noix. This intel
ligence, though in itself grateful, furnished no prospect of immediate assistance.
It even confirmed the certainty of failure on the part of General Amherst, in sea
sonably executing the plan of co-operation, concerted between the two armies — a
failure to which all the embarrassments of Wolfe are attributed.
Nothing, however, could shake the resolution of this valiant commander, or in
duce him to abandon the enterprise. In a council of his principal officers, called
on this critical occasion, it was resolved, that all the future operations should be
above the town. The camp at the Isle of Orleans was accordingly abandoned;
and the whole army having embarked on board the fleet, a part of it was landed at
Point Levi, and a part higher up the river. Montcalm. apprehending from this
movement that the invaders might make a distant descent, and come on the back
of the city of Quebec, detached M. de Bougainville, with one thousand five hun
dred men, to watch their motions, and prevent their landing.
Although Wolfe was at this time confined by sickness, the three English briga
dier generals projected and laid before him a daring plan for getting possession of
the hights back of Quebec, where it was but slightly fortified. They proposed to
land the troops in the night under the Hights of Abraham, a small distance above
the city, and to gain the ascent by morning. This attempt would obviously be at
tended with extreme difficulty and hazard. The stream was rapid, the shore shelv
ing, the proposed and only landing place so narrow, as easily to be missed in the
dark, and the steep so great as not to be ascended by day but with difficulty, even
though there were no opposition. Wolfe did not fail to approve a plan, that was
OUTLINE HISTORY. 49
altogether congenial to his own adventurous spirit. He was soon able to prosecute
it in person, and it was effected with equal judgment and vigor. The admiral,
having moved up the river several leagues above the place fixed on for the landing,
made signs of an intention to debark the troops at different places. During the
night, a strong detachment was put on board the flat bottomed boats, which fell si
lently down with the tide to the intended place of debarkation; and about an hour
before day break a landing was effected. Wolfe was one of the first men who
leaped on shore. The Highlanders and light infantry, commanded by Colonel
Howe, led the way up the dangerous precipice, which was ascended by the aid of
the rugged projection of the rocks, and the branches of trees and plants, growing
on the cliffs. The rest of the troops, emulating their example, followed up the
narrow pass, and by break of day the whole army reached the summit.
Montcalm, when informed that the English had gained the flights of Abraham,
which in a manner commanded Quebec, could not at first credit the intelli
gence. Believing the ascent of an army by such a rugged and abrupt preci
pice impracticable, he concluded it was merely a feint, made by a small detach
ment, to induce him to abandon his present position. When convinced of his
mistake, he perceived that a battle could no longer be prudently avoided, and
instantly prepared for it. Leaving his camp at Montmorency, he crossed the lliver
St. Charles with the intention of attacking the English army. No sooner did
Wolfe observe this movement, than he began to form his order of battle. His
troops consisted of six battalions, and the Louisburg grenadiers. The right wing
was commanded by General Monckton, and the left by General Murray. The right
flank was covered by the Louisburg grenadiers, and the rear and left by Howe's
light infantry. The form in which the French advanced indicating an intention to
outflank the left of the English army, General Townshend was sent with the bat
talion of Amherst, and the two battalions of royal Americans, to that part of the
line ; and they were formed en potence, so as to present a double front to the ene
my. The body of reserve consisted of one regiment, drawn up in eight divisions,
with large intervals. The dispositions made by the French general were not less
masterly. The right and left wings were composed about equally of European and
colonial troops. The center consisted of a column, formed of two battalions of
regulars. Fifteen hundred Indians and Canadians, excellent marksmen, advancing
in front, screened by surrounding thickets, began the battle. Their irregular firo
proved fatal to many B*ritish officers ; but it was soon silenced by the steady fire of
the English. About nine in the marning, the main body of the French advanced
briskly to the charge ; and the action soon became general. Montcalm having
taken post on the left of the French army, and Wolfe, on the right of the English,
the two generals met each other, where the battle was most severe. The English
troops reserved their fire until the Fre"nch had advanced within forty yards of their
line ; and then, by a general discharge, made terrible havoc among their ranks.
The fire of the English was vigorously maintained, and the enemy everywhere
yielded to it. General Wolfe, who, exposed in the front of his battalions, had been
wounded in the wrist, betraying no symptom of pain, wrapped a handkerchief
round his arm, and <Shitinued to encourage his men. Soon after, he received a
shot in the groin; but, concealing the wound, he was pressing on at the head of
his grenadiers with fixed bayonets, when a third ball pierced his breast. The
army, not disconcerted by his fall, continued the action under Monckton, on whom
50 OUTLINE HISTORY.
the command now devolved, but who, receiving a ball through his body, soon
yielded the command to General Townshend. Montcalm, fighting in front of his*
battalions, received a mortal wound about the same time; and General Senezer
gus, the second in command, also fell. The British grenadiers pressed on with
their bayonets. General Murray, briskly advancing with the troops under his di
rection, broke the center of the French army. The Highlanders, drawing their
broadswords, completed the confusion of the enemy; and, falling on them with
resistless fury, drove them, with great slaughter, partly into Quebec, and partly
over the St. Charles. The other divisions of the army behaved with equal gal
lantry. M. do Bougainville, with a body of two thousand fresh troops, appeared in
the rear of the victorious army; but the main body of the French army was al
ready so much broken and dispersed, that he did not hazard a second attack. The
victory was decisive. About one thousand of the enemy were made prisoners, and
nearly an equal number fell in the battle and the pursuit; the remainder retired
first to Point au Tremble, and afterward to Trois llivieres and Montreal. The loss
of the English, both of killed and wounded, was less than six hundred men.
General Townshend proceeded to fortify his camp, and to make the necessary
preparations for the siege of Quebec; but, five days after the victory, the city sur
rendered to the English fleet and army. By the articles of capitulation, the in
habitants were, during the war, to be protected in the free exercise of their relig
ion, and their future destination was left to be decided at a general peace. The
capital of New France, thus reduced under the. dominion of Great Britain, was
garrisoned by about five thousand men, under the command of General Murray,
and the British fleet sailed out of the St. Lawrence. Quebec contained, at the time
of its capitulation, about ten thousand souls.
The prisoners were embarked in transports, the day after the capitulation, for
France. General James Wolfe, who expired in the arms of victory, was only
thirty-three years of age. He possessed those military talents, which, with the
advantage of years and opportunity of action, "to moderate his ardor, expand his
faculties, and give to his intuitive perception and scientific knowledge the correct
ness of judgment perfected by experience," would have "placed him on a level
with the most celebrated generals of any age or nation." After he had received
his mortal wound, it was with reluctance that he suffered himself to be conveyed
into the rear. Leaning on the shoulder of a lieutenant, who kneeled down to sup
port him, he was seized with the agonies of death ; but, hearing the words " they
run," he exclaimed, " Who run ? " " The French," replied his supporter. " Then
1 die happy," said the general, and expired. A death mere glorious, says Belsham,
is no where to be found in the annals of history. Montcalm was every way worthy
to be a competitor of Wolfe. He had the truest military genius of any officer
whom the French had ever employed in America. After he had received his mor
tal wound, he was carried into the city; and when informed that it was mortal,
his reply was, "I am glad of it." On being told that he could survive but a few
hours, "So much the better," he replied, "I shall not then live to see the surren
der of Quebec."
Early in the summer of 1760, General Amherst put in motion his
troops, in order to make an attack on Montreal, the last fortress of
consequence remaining in possession of the French. Advancing from
OUTLINE HISTORY. 51
Albany to the lake, he took the French fort at Isle Royal, and pro
ceeded down the St. Lawrence to Montreal, where he was joined by
General Murray, from Quebec. Vaudreuil, the French commander,
finding resistance useless, surrendered Montreal by capitulation. The
inhabitants of Canada then submitted, and took the oath of allegiance
to the British crown.
WAR WITH THE CHEROKEES.
While the troops were conquering Canada, the Cherokees, a power
ful tribe of Indians, were committing outrages on the frontiers of Vir
ginia and Carolina. Governor Lyttleton, of South Carolina, entered
their country with a military force, and obliged them to sue for peace,
which was granted. The Indians, however, violated the treaty, and
attempted to surprise a fort on the frontiers of Carolina. On applica
tion to General Amherst, he sent Colonel Montgomery with twelve
hundred men, to protect the southern colonies. That officer penetrated
into the heart of the Cherokee country, plundering and destroying all
their villages, and magazines of corn. In revenge, the Indians be
sieged Fort Loudon, in Virginia ; the garrison, after being reduced to
extreme distress, capitulated, but on their march toward Carolina, a
body of savages fell upon the party and murdered twenty-five, with all
the officers but Captain Stuart. Early in 1761, General Amherst sent
Colonel Grant with a body of troops, who landed in Chai'leston. Be
ing joined by a regiment of colonial forces under Colonel Middleton,
he made an expedition into the Cherokee country, defeated the Indians,
destroyed fourteen of their towns, with corn and stores, and then re
paired to Fort Prince George, for rest and refreshment. In a few days
several Indian chiefs arrived, with proposals of peace, which were
gladly received and adopted.
SURRENDER OF HAVANA.
On the 5th of June, 1762, Admiral Pocock, with a fleet of thirty-
seven ships-of-war, with one hundred and fifty transports, and a land
force of about fifteen thousand men under the command of Lord Al-
bemarle, arrived before Havana. About four thousand men of the in
vading force were from the American colonies. After a siege of more
than two months, this important place surrendered to his Britannic
majesty. During the siege, many of the soldiers dropped down dead
under the pressure of heat, thirst and fatigue. Of the troops from
New England, scarcely any of the private soldiers, and but few of the
52 OUTLINE HISTORY.
officers, ever returned. Such as were not killed, were generally swept
away by the great mortality which prevailed in the army and navy.
CESSION OF CANADA AND NEW FRANCE.
By the treaty of Paris in 1763, France ceded to Great Britain all
claim to Canada and New France embracing all the territory east of
the Mississippi, excepting the Island of Orleans. By a secret treaty
previously made with Spain, France ceded to that power all the re
mainder of her American possessions on the Mississippi, embracing
Western Louisiana and the Island of Orleans. Spain at this time
also ceded the province of Florida, so that all of America east of the
Mississippi River, excepting the Island of Orleans, came under the
dominion of Great Britain, and so remained until the war of the
Revolution.
THE REVOLUTIONARY PERIOD.
THE CHARTER, PROPRIETARY AND ROYAL GOVERNMENTS.
Before the Revolution, three kinds of government were estab
lished in the British American colonies. The first was a Charter gov
ernment, by which the powers of legislation were vested in a governor,
council and assembly, chosen by the people. The second was a Pro
prietary government, in which the proprietor of the province was gov
ernor. Although he generally resided abroad, he administered the
government by a deputy of his own appointment, the assembly, only,
being chosen by the people. The third kind was a lioyal government,
where the governor and council were appointed by the crown, and the
assembly by the people. This variety of governments created differ
ent degrees of dependence on the crown. To render laws valid, it was
constitutionally required that they should be ratified by the king ; but
this formality was often dispensed with, especially in the charter gov
ernments.
FEARS OF THE COLONISTS OF THE ENCROACHMENTS OF THE CROWN.
From a very early period, the colonists had reason to fear that the
mother country would endeavor to abridge their civil and religious
freedom; a majority were dissenters from the established church, and
the ecclesiastical tyranny which some of them had suffered in the old
country, they had reason to fear would be extended to the new. Dur
ing the reign of Charles I, the colonies were frequently alarmed with
OUTLINE HISTORY. 53
the report of some act of the British government, to abridge their
freedom. Their enemies represented them as aiming at entire inde
pendence, and a plan was nearly matured to deprive the colonies of
their charters, and place over them a governor general. The civil
wars and contentions in England at this period, probably frustrated
this plan.
THE ODIOUS NAVIGATION ACT.
No measure of the English government excited more discontent, or
was resisted with more firmness by the first settlers, than the law for
regulating the trade of England and the colonies, first enacted by the
parliament in 1651, during the administration of Cromwell, and in
1660, re-enacted by the king and parliament with considerable addi
tions. By this act, all trade with England and the colonies was re
stricted to English ships, the masters of which, and three fourths, at
least, of the seamen, were to be English ; and the colonies were pro
hibited from shipping many of their most valuable articles to any ports
but to England, where they were to be landed, before they could be
sent to market in any other country.
SIR EDMUND ANDROSS APPOINTED GOVERNOR GENERAL.
The Navigation Act being so unpopular in the colonies, it was
deemed necessary by the English government to send over Edward
Randolph, with powers to spy out and to make seizures, where the law
was disobeyed, and in short to act as a common informer. He made it his
business to collect charges against the colonies, and to excite the jeal
ousies of the mother country. In this manner the way was prepared
for annulling the charters of the colonies, and the appointment of Sir
Edmund Andross as governor general over New England and New
York. Andross, the " Tyrant of New England" as he was called, be
came exceedingly unpopular, and his conduct served to alienate the
people from the parent state.
ACT TO PREVENT THE MANUFACTURE OF IRON BY THE COLONIES.
The proceedings of the British parliament, which manifested a fixed
determination to make the Americans subservient to the interests of
Great Britain, were the immediate causes of an opposition which re
sulted in an appeal to arms. As early as 1750, an act was passed in
parliament to encourage the exportation of iron in pigs and bars, from
America to London ; and to prevent the erection of any mill in the
54 OUTLINE HISTORY.
colonies for slitting or rolling iron, or any plating forge, or furnace for
making steel. The object of the English government was to check the
growth of American manufactures, and compel the colonies to ex
port their iron, and to import from England their manufactured ar
ticles.
THE STAMP ACT.
After the reduction of Canada, the British parliament attempted to
raise a revenue by taxing the colonies. The pretext for this was, to ob
tain indemnification for the great expenses of Great Britain in defend
ing the colonies, and to enable her to discharge the debt incurred in
the preceding wars. For this purpose, an act was passed in 1765, for
laying a duty on all kinds of paper used in America, and declaring all
writings on unstamped materials to be null and void.
The news, and the act itself, arrived first at Boston, when the bells
were muffled, and rung a funeral peal. The act was first hawked about
the street with a death's head affixed to it, and styled " The Folly of
England, and the Ruin of America;''' and afterward publicly burnt
by the enraged populace. The stamps, when found, were seized and
destroyed. Those who were to receive the stamp duties, were compelled
to resign their offices, and such as sided with government had their
houses plundered and burnt. It was on this occasion that Governor
Hutchinson, of Massachusetts, had his house plundered, and valuable
original papers concerning the history of the colonies were irrecovera
bly lost.
ASSERTION OF THE PRINCIPLE, "NO TAXATION WITHOUT REPESENTATION.
Though these outrages were committed by a mob, yet it was evident
that they were first connived at by persons holding superior stations ;
and the doctrine was soon avowed by them that Britain had no right
whatever to tax the colonies without their consent. The ferment pro
duced by the stamp act diffused itself universally throughout all the
colonies. Virginia first, and afterward all the rest, declared against
the right of Britain to lay taxes in America. The principle asserted
by the friends of liberty in parliament, that " taxation and represen
tation are inseparable" was, of course, universally adopted by the
Americans. In vain did the ministry allege that a revenue raised in
America would be expended in supporting the government, and in de
fending the colonies. The colonial assemblies wished not to have the
taxes raised by Great Britain, nor to be at her disposal.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 55
REPEAL OF THE STAMP ACT.
In October, 1765, delegates from nine of the colonies met in New-
York, and after deliberation, agreed on a declaration of grievances ;
asserted their exemption from taxes not imposed by their own repre
sentatives, and sent a petition to the king, with a memorial to both
houses of parliament. This spirited opposition, seconded by the elo
quence of Mr. Pitt and other friends of America, produced a repeal of
the stamp act, March 18, 1766. The news of this event was received
in America with bonfires, ringing of bells, and other demonstrations
of joy.
DUTIES ON TEA, PAPER, GLASS, ETC., ENACTED.
The British ministry, still persisting in their attempts to raise a reve
nue in America, in 1767, passed an act laying duties on glass, painters
colors, paper and tea, imported into the colonies. A custom house
was directed to be established in America, with a board of commis
sioners to oversee the revenues, and to reside in Boston. These du
ties were small, but the colonists objected to the principle, rather than
the amount of the tax, and remonstrated against the act. A ferment
ensued, much greater than that occasioned by the stamp act. Combi
nations were formed to suspend the importation and consumption of
British goods. This opposition, supported by petitions, and remon
strances in January, 1770, caused the repeal of all the duties except
three-pence on every pound of tea.
TROOPS SENT TO AMERICA TO ENFORCE OBEDIENCE TO OBNOXIOUS LAWS.
The severe restrictions laid upon the commerce of the colonies,
which deprived them of seeking the best markets for their produce,
caused much ill feeling. The attempt to evade the duties was consid
ered honorable, and smuggling to some extent was practiced. The
ministry finding all mild measures to establish their authority in re
gard to a revenue, unavailing, sent four regiments of troops to enforce
obedience to the obnoxious laws of parliament. The arrival of these,
in 1772, was a source of much uneasiness to the colonies, but no op
position was then made. In order to prevent smuggling, an armed
schooner, called the Gaspee, was stationed in Providence River ; while
there she was burnt by the populace.
THE BOSTON RIOT OF MARCH 5, 1770.
The presence of an insolent military force in Boston, was a source
of much provocation to the inhabitants, and soon led to bloodshed.
56 OUTLINE HISTORY.
On the night of the 5th of March, 1770, a body of troops being or
dered to disperse a number of the citizens of Boston, who were col
lected in Cornhill, the populace pelted them with stones, upon which
the troops fired among them, killed three, and wounded five, two of
whom died. This outrage inflamed the animosity of the Americans,
and hastened forward the important crisis. To commemorate this
tragedy, an anniversary oration was instituted in Boston, and was an
nually pronounced by some distinguished citizen, on the 5th of March,
until the Revolution.
DESTRUCTION OF TEA IN THE HARBOR OF BOSTON.
Though the colonies had entered into a non-importation agreement,
against tea and other commodities, it nevertheless found its way into
America, though in small quantities. The East India Company having
suffered by this state of trade, were authorized to send a large quan
tity of tea to America, free from any duty payable in Great Britain.
The Americans being convinced that they could not prevent the sale
of the tea, were it brought on shore, endeavored to prevent its being
landed. For this purpose, a company of persons disguised as Mohawk
Indians, one evening went on board the ships, and threw into the sea
their whole cargoes, consisting of three hundred and forty-two chests
of tea ; after which, they peaceably retired.
Determined to reduce the province of Massachusetts to obedience,
an act of parliament was passed to regulate its government, by which
the powers of the people were abridged, and the officers of the gov
ernment were made dependent on the crowrn for their appointment and
salaries. By another act, persons indicted for murder or other capi
tal offenses, might, if the governor should think an impartial trial
could not be had in the colony, be sent to Great Britain to be tried.
They also passed another act to strengthen the Interest and power of
the crown, by enlarging the province of Canada, and granting unusual
privileges to the^Catholics.
THE BOSTON PORT BILL.
In 1774, the British government, in order to punish Massachusetts,
and especially the refractory inhabitants of Boston, as also to bring
them to submission, passed an act to shut the port of Boston, and to
restrain all intercourse with the town by water. The government and
public offices were removed to Salem. These proceedings, added to
the detection of some letters written by the crown officers in Boston,
OUTLINE HISTORY. 57
advising to more decisive measures against the colonies, raised such a
ferment in America, that but little hopes were left of a reconciliation.
In May, 1774, General Gage arrived in Boston as governor of Massa
chusetts, and commander-in-chief of the British forces. Soon after,
two more regiments arrived with artillery and military stores, evi
dently showing the determination of the British government to reduce
the colonies to submission by force of arms.
RETALIATORY AND DEFENSIVE MEASURES OF THE COLONISTS.
Feeling that reconciliation was no longer to be expected, and that
their rights must be maintained by an appeal to arms, the Americans
set apart a day of humiliation and prayer, to invoke the Supreme
Being, and to manifest their dependence on him for support in this
trying conflict. And as the Port Bill had put an end to the trade of
Boston, and thus deprived the inhabitants of the means of subsistence,
the inhabitants of the other colonies sent liberal contributions to their
relief. The " committee of correspondence" which had been formed
in several colonies, now framed an agreement called a " Solemn
League and Covenant," by which they determined to suspend all in
tercourse with Great Britain, until all their chartered rights should be
restored. Agreements were also formed throughout the colonies,
neither to import, nor to consume British goods until a redress of
grievances was granted.
General Gage, soon after his arrival, observing the spirit of the
people, began to think of measures of defense; and directed Boston
Neck to be fortified. He seized on the powder lodged in the public
store at Charlestown ; he also proclaimed the " Solemn League and
Covenant " to be a traitorous combination. He had summoned the
Assembly of Massachusetts to convene at Salem ; but on further re
flection had countermanded the summons. The counter order was
deemed illegal, and the members convened. The governor not meet
ing them, they organized themselves into a " Provincial Congress,"
which formed a plan of defense. They resolved to enroll a body of
men to be prepared to march at a minute's notice, and, therefore,
called "Minute Men" They also appointed officers, a " committee
of safety," and took measures to collect military supplies at Worces
ter and Concord.
MEETING OF THE CONTINENTAL CONGRESS AT PHILADELPHIA.
On the 5th of September, 1774, a general congress was convened
at Philadelphia, consisting of delegates from twelve colonies. These
58
OUTLINE HISTORY.
delegates, fifty-one in number, were appointed by the colonial legis
latures; or where none existed, the appointments were made by
select meetings and associations of citizens. Their first act was an
approbation of the conduct of Massachusetts. They next addressed
General Gage, stating the grievances of the people of Massachusetts,
and their resolution to support that province in her opposition, en
treating him to forbear hostilities, and not preclude the hope of a
reconciliation. They published a declaration of the rights of the
colonies, one of which was an exemption from taxes imposed upon
them by a legislature in which they were not represented. They de
clared several of the acts of parliament to be infringements of their
rights, and a repeal of them necessary to a reconciliation.
When the proceedings of the American Congress were laid before
the British Partiament, Lord Chatham introduced some conciliatory
propositions, but they were rejected by a large ministerial majority;
and a joint address of both houses to the king, declared that rebellion
actually existed in the province of Massachusetts. The houses,
therefore, besought his majesty to take the most effectual measures to
enforce due obedience to the laws. From this moment an appeal to
arms became unavoidable, and both parties prepared for the conflict.
1775._FIRST YEAR OF THE REVOLUTION.
In the beginning of the year 1775, the British ministry, headed by
Lord North, procured an act of parliament to prohibit the New Eng
land colonies from carrying on the fisheries, and from trading in
Europe and the West Indies. These restraints were afterward ex
tended to the other colonies. The army in Boston was increased to
ten thousand men, which number was deemed sufficient to reduce the
rebellious colonies to submission. At the same time Lord North in
troduced a motion, the object of which was, evidently, to divide the
colonies from each other, by exempting from parliamentary duties
and taxation, such of them as would contribute to the common defense
by raising their proportion of money in their own way.
A British proclamation, forbidding the exportation of arms and
ammunition to the colonies, was no sooner received, than the most
vigorous efforts were made in America to procure supplies. A high
bounty on the materials and manufacture of powder, caused mills for
making it to be erected in various parts of the country. Ships and
OUTLINE HISTORY. 59
money were dispatched, secretly, to Europe, to purchase and import
arms and ammunition. In some places, the cannon belonging to the
crown were siezed. A list of all the fencible men in each colony was
made out, and especially of those who had served in the former war:
of whom they had the satisfaction to find that two thirds of them were
alive and fit to bear arms. The militia were put under discipline, and
the resolutions, or recommendations of congress were as effective as
regular laws.
On the 26th of February, 1775, General Gage having been informed
that a number of field pieces had been brought to Salem, dispatched a
party to sieze them. The draw bridge over which they were to pass
being pulled up by the people, the soldiers siezed a boat to ferry
them over; but the people had cut out the bottom. Hostilities would
then have been commenced, had it not been for the interposition of a
clergyman, who induced the people to let the troops march over the
bridge. But it was of no avail, as the cannon had been removed,
and the soldiers returned without executing their orders.
AFFAIR AT LEXINGTON.
The next attempt was attended with more serious consequences.
General Gage having been informed that a large quantity of ammu
nition and military stores had been collected at Concord, about six
teen miles from Boston, where the provincial congress was sitting,
sent a detachment under the command of Colonel Smith and Major
Pitcairn, to destroy the stores, and, as was reported, to sieze Messrs.
Hancock and Adams, the leading men of the Congress.
The party set out before daybreak, on the 19th of April, 1775,
inarching with the utmost silence, and securing every one on the road
that they might not be discovered. But notwithstanding all their
care, soon the continual ringing of bells and the firing of guns, as
they went along, gave them notice that the country was alarmed.
About five in the morning, they had reached Lexington, about ten
miles from Boston. There they found some forty or fifty of the Lex
ington militia assembled on the green. Major Pitcairn, who led the
van, rode up to the militia and exclaimed: "Disperse, you d — d
rebels! throiv down your arms and disperse!" This order, as far as
throwing down their arms was concerned, appears not to have been
obeyed. Pitcairn then fired his pistol, and flourishing his sword,
ordered his soldiers to fire. Eight of the Americans were killed;
three or four by the first fire of the British, the others after they had
60 OUTLINE HISTORY.
left the parade. Thus opened the great drama of the Revolution.
There the first blood was shed, and there the first American lives taken
in the contest.
The British detachment from thence proceeded on to Concord. The
inhabitants of that town made some preparations for defense, but the
number of the British was too great for them to encounter, and they
retired over the north bridge arid waited for reinforcements. The
troops having destroyed about sixty barrels of flour, and disabled two
cannon, with some other damage, grew alarmed at the numbers of the
militia, and began to make a retreat. A skirmish took place at
the bridge, and two or three on each side were killed. This was the
first forcible resistance to British aggression. The British continued
their retreat, followed by the exasperated Americans, who fired upon
them from behind walls and fences. When they had arrived at Lex
ington, they met a reinforcement of upward of a thousand men, under
Earl Percy, who had been sent to their assistance. By this means
they were able to return to Boston. The loss of the Americans was
forty-nine killed, and forty-one wounded and missing. The British
loss was seventy-three killed, and one hundred and seventy-two
wounded, and twenty-six missing.
The engagements at Concord and Lexington so much raised the
spirits of the Americans, that they meditated nothing less than the
total expulsion of the British troops at Boston. An army of twenty
thousand men was assembled, who formed a line of encampment from
Roxbury to the Mystic, through a space of about twenty miles, and there
they were soon after joined by a large body of Connecticut troops
under General Putnam, an old officer of great bravery and ex
perience.
BATTLE OF BUNKER HILL.
On the night previous to the 17th of June, 1775, the Americans
took possession of Bunker Hill, a high elevation which overlooks
and commanded the town of Boston. There they worked with such
diligence, that to the astonishment of their enemies, they had, before
day light, almost completed a redoubt with a strong entrenchment,
reaching toward the Mystic. When the dawn of the morning en
abled the enemy to discover the Americans, a severe cannonade from
the ships-of-war and floating batteries in Charles River, showed the
determination of the British commander to oppose the progress of the
works. The Americans, however, continued their labors on the
redoubt and other defenses, which they completed before mid-day.
OUTLINE HISTORY.
61
At two o'clock, P. M., the British having landed over three thousand
men at Morton's Point, under the immediate command of Gen. Howe,
moved forward in apparently invincible order, to drive the Americans
from the hill. At this moment, in the church steeples, on the house
tops, and from every place in Boston and its vicinity, where the battle
ground could be seen, persons of both sexes had assembled with trem
bling anxiety to view the movements of the combatants. Gen. Put
nam ordered his men to reserve their fire against the foe, till they
could " see the whites of their eyes," then to " aim at their waistbands"
and to " pick off the handsome coats."
The enemy were suffered to advance to within eight rods of the
Americans, when a sheet of fire was poured in upon them, and con
tinued a short time with such deadly effect that hundreds of the as
sailants lay weltering in their blood, when the remainder retreated in
dismay to the place where they had first landed. The British officers
having succeeded in rallying their men, they again advanced in the
same order to the attack. To divert the attention of the Americans,
the town of Charlestown, consisting of about five hundred wooden
buildings, was set on fire. The scene was now awful and sublime;
but the stillness of death reigned within the American works, and
nothing could be seen but the deadly pointed weapons, ready to send
death to the approaching foe. The fire of the Americans was the
second time reserved, until the British came still nearer than before,
when another deadly discharge sent them retreating to the banks of
the river, leaving the field, as before, covered with their dead and
wounded.
A third time the British, aided by their reinforcements, advanced to
the attack, but with great caution and skill. They brought up cannon
to bear against the north-eastern corner of the redoubt, and also the
entrenchment on the east side of the hill, and at the same time they
prepared to storm the opposite side of the redoubt with fixed bayonets.
The slaughter on their advance was great, but the powder of the
Americans becoming exhausted, and they being destitute of bayonets
to resist the charge, they were forced to abandon their works. Over
powered by numbers, they retreated across Charlestown Neck, exposed
to the fire of a ship-of-war and two floating batteries. The British
had nearly five thousand soldiers on the field of battle ; the Americans
had less than two thousand. The British had nearly one thousand five
hundred killed and wounded, one thousand two hundred of whom were
either slain on the spot or died of their wounds. The American loss
62 OUTLINE HISTORY.
was about four hundred. Among the killed, however, was General
Warren, the brave patriot, and president of the provincial congress,
who volunteered on this occasion, and did duty as a private soldier in
the battle.
SURRENDER OF TICONDEROGA AND CROWN POINT.
The importance of securing the passes into Canada was quite appa
rent. For this purpose, several gentlemen in Connecticut formed the
bold design of seizing Crown Point and Ticonderoga by surprise.
With this object in view, about forty volunteers set out from Connec
ticut and proceeded to Vermont, where they were joined by Colonel
Ethan Allen and Colonel Arnold. So secret was the expedition, that
they succeeded in surprising the commander of Ticonderoga in his
bed. When required to surrender the fort, he asked, "By what au
thority?" " I demand it,ff said Allen, "in the name of the Great Je
hovah, and of the Continental Congress" Colonel Warner, with a com
pany, took Crown Point, and in these two forts the Americans found
cannon and military stores, which were greatly wanted.
ACTS OF THE CONTINENTAL CONGRESS.
In May, 1775, the general congress, composed of delegates from all
the colonies, met at Philadelphia. One of their acts was a manifesto,
written in a masterly manner, justifying the necessity of taking up
arms for the defense of their rights. They sent another petition to
the king, but it was treated with contempt. They directed an emis
sion of bills of credit, not to exceed two millions of dollars. They
established a post office, under the direction of Dr. Franklin. At this
congress, GEORGE WASHINGTON, a delegate from Virginia, was ap
pointed commander-in-chief of the American army, June 15, 1775.
WASHINGTON JOINS THE ARMY INVESTING BOSTON.
General Washington, soon after his appointment, repaired to the
army investing Boston, accompanied by General Lee, and established
his quarters at Cambridge. On his journey, and at camp, he was re
ceived and welcomed with the most profound respect, and his presence
inspired confidence. The army investing Boston amounted to about
fifteen thousand men, but was destitute of good arms, ammunition and
clothing. The first and most difficult task was to organize and dis
cipline the troops. All the powder in the army amounted to only nine
rounds to a soldier. A small supply from New Jersey, and the cargo
OUTLINE HISTORY. gg
of a brig, the first prize taken by Captain Manly, afforded a most
timely but limited supply.
BURNING OF FALMOUTH.
The inhabitants of Falmouth, a thriving town in Maine, in com
pliance with the resolves of the provincial congress, obstructed the
loading of a ship, which drew upon them the vengeance of the British
admiral. An order was given to burn the town, which accordingly
was given to the flames, October 18, 1775. In November following,
the government of Massachusetts authorized letters of marque and
reprisal, and instituted courts of admiralty, for the trial and condem
nation of prizes. Immediately the sea swarmed with American pri
vateers, which captured great numbers of valuable British ships, and
supplied the Americans with all kinds of goods and military stores.
EXPEDITION FOR THE CONQUEST OF CANADA, UNDER MONTGOMERY AND
ARNOLD.
In pursuance of the plan of guarding the frontiers by taking Cana
da, Generals Schuyler and Montgomery were sent forward to that
province with a body of troops; General Schuyler being taken sick,
the command devolved on Montgomery. A small fort at Chamblee
was first taken, where a supply of powder was obtained. St. Johns,
with a garrison of seven hundred men, was next taken, which was
succeeded by the capture of Montreal. The only misfortune which
attended these enterprises, was the capture of Colonel Ethan Allen,
who, in a rash attempt on Montreal, was made prisoner and sent in
irons to England.
In order to assist in the reduction of Canada, General Arnold, with
a force of one thousand men, was sent to penetrate through the un
broken wilderness to Quebec. The army encountered great difficul
ties in their march of three hundred miles, through swamps, woods,
and over craggy mountains, which so obstructed their progress, that
for part of their time they progressed only four or five miles a day.
One half of their number were obliged to return ; provisions were so
scanty, that some of the men ate their dogs, leather, and shoes. Still
they proceeded with great fortitude, and on the 3rd of November,
reached the inhabited part of Canada, to the astonishment of the in
habitants.
ATTACK ON QUEBEC AND DEATH OF MONTGOMERY.
Soon after the arrival of Arnold at Quebec, General Montgomery
64 OUTLINE HISTORY.
advanced from Montreal, but the American forces, when united, were
too small to reduce a place so strongly situated as Quebec. When
the seige had continued for a month, General Montgomery, conscious
that he could accomplish nothing except by surprise, resolved to
make an attempt on the last day of 1775. Under the cover of night,
and during a snow storm, two attacks were made at the same time,
one by himself and the New York troops, the other by Colonel Ar
nold with the New England troops. Montgomery, while passing a
barrier at the head of his men, was killed by a cannon shot, together
with his two aids. Arnold took a battery, but he being wounded was
compelled to leave the field. His men fought bravely; but becoming
bewildered and benumbed amidst the darkness and snow, and being
unable to retreat, surrendered.
1776.— SECOND YEAR OF THE REVOLUTION.
BURNING OF NORFOLK.
The first day in the year 1776, was signalized by the burning of
the flourishing town of Norfolk, in Virginia, by order of Lord Dun-
more the royal governor. At the commencement of the revolutionary
troubles, violent altercations, between Dunmore and the Virginia
Assembly, had induced the governor to dissolve the legislature, and
to refuse calling another. A convention of two delegates, from a
county assembled in March 1775, and exercised the powers of gov
ernment. Dunmore then seized the powder at Williamsburg, and
conveyed it on board of the shipping. The people assembled in
arms and demanded the powder or its value. The governor with
drew on board of a ship ; much altercation took place, which resulted
in his giving the order to lay Norfolk in ashes.
BRITISH FLEET REPULSED IN CHARLESTON HARBOR.
Early in 1776, a squadron of British ships, under Admiral Parker,
with a body of land forces on board, appeared before Charleston,
South Carolina, with a view to take possession. An attempt had
been made in the winter, by a party of British troops and royalists, to
penetrate into North Carolina, but it was repelled by the bravery of
OUTLINE HISTORY. (fo
the militia. In June, the British ships were brought to bear upon
Sullivan's Island, which commands the passage to Charleston. An
attack was made upon the Palmetto fort upon the island, which con
tinued for ten hours. But the fire of the shipping was returned with
great effect, from the fort commanded by Colonel Moultrie. The
ships were shattered and obliged to abandon the attack, with a heavy
loss of men.
INDEPENDENCE DECLARED.
Notwithstanding the active war carried on by the colonies, they
still considered themselves subjects of the British king, contending
for constitutional liberty. But the determined hostility of the British
government induced them to dissolve their connection with the mother
country. A pamphlet, entitled Common Sense, written by THOMAS
PAINE, an Englishman by birth, in which the excellencies of a re
publican government were described, and the monarchical system ridi
culed, produced a remarkable effect on the public mind. On June 7th,
a motion was made in the American congress then assembled in Phila
delphia, by RICHARD HENRY LEE, of Virginia, and seconded by JOHN
ADAMS, of Massachusetts, for declaring the colonies free and inde-
2')endent. A committee consisting of JEFFERSON, ADAMS, FRANKLIN,
SHERMAN and LIVINGSTON, were appointed to prepare a Declaration
of Independence. The Declaration, written by Mr. Jefferson, was
adopted by congress by an almost unanimous vote, on the 4th of July,
1776, by which the thirteen UNITED STATES OF AMERICA were declared
free and independent.
DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE.
When, in the course of human events, it becomes necessary for one people to
dissolve the political bands which have connected them with another, and to as
sume, among the powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the
laws of nature and of nature's God entitle them, a decent respeet to the opinions
of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to the
separation.
We hold these truths to be self-evident: that all men are created equal; that
they are endowed, by their Creator, with certain unalienable rights; that among
these are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. That to secure these rights,
governments are instituted among men, deriving their just powers from the con
sent of the governed; that whenever any form of government becomes destructive
of these ends, it is the right of the people to alter or to abolish it, and to institute
a new government, laying its foundation on such principles, and organizing its
powers in such form as to them shall seem most likely to effect their safety and
happiness. Prudence, indeed, will dictate, that governments long established
6(J OUTLINE HISTORY.
should not be changed for light and transient causes ; and, accordingly, all expe
rience hath shown, that mankind are more disposed to suffer while evils are suf-
ferable, than to right themselves by abolishing the forms to which they are ac
customed. But when a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably
the same object, evinces a design to reduce them under absolute despotism, it is
their right, it is their duty to throw off such government, and to provide new
guards for their future security. Such has been the patient sufferance of these
colonies; and such is now the necessity which constrains them to alter their
former systems of government. The history of the present king of Great Britain
is a history of repeated injuries and usurpations, all having in direct object the
establishment of an absolute tyranny over these states. To prove this, let facts be
submitted to a candid world.
He has refused his assent to laws the most wholesome and necessary for the
public good.
He has forbidden his governors to pass laws of immediate and pressing impor
tance, unless suspended in their operation, till his assent should be obtained; and
when so suspended, he has utterly neglected to attend to them.
He has refused to pass other laws for the accommodation of large districts of
people, unless those people would relinquish the right of representation in the
legislature — a right estimable to them, and formidable to tyrants only.
He has called together legislative bodies at places unusual, uncomfortable, and
distant from the repository of their public records, for the sole purpose of fatigu
ing them into compliance with his measures.
He has dissolved representative houses repeatedly, for opposing, with manly
firmness, his invasions on the rights of the people.
He has refused, for a long time after such dissolutions, to cause others to be
elected; whereby the legislative powers, incapable of annihilation, have returned
to the people at large, for their exercise, the state remaining, in the meantime,
exposed to all the dangers of invasion from without, and convulsions within.
He has endeavored to prevent the population of these states; for that purpose
obstructing the laws for naturalization of foreigners; refusing to pass others to
encourage their migration hither, and raising the conditions of new appropria
tions of lands.
He has obstructed the administration of justice, by refusing his assent to laws
for establishing judiciary powers.
He has made judges dependent on his will alone, for the tenure of their offices,
and the amount and payment of their salaries.
He has erected a multitude of new offices, and sent hither swarms of officers, to
harass our people, and eat out their substance.
He has kept among us, in times of peace, standing armies, without the consent
of our legislatures.
He has affected to render the military independent of, and superior to, the civil
power.
He has combined with others to subject us to a jurisdiction foreign to our con
stitution, and unacknowledged by our laws ; giving his assent to their acts of pre
tended legislation:
For quartering large bodies of armed troops among us :
For protecting them, by a mock trial, from punishment for any murders which
they should commit on the inhabitants of these states:
For cutting off our trade with all parts of the world :
For imposing taxes on us without our consent:
OUTLINE HISTORY. (57
For depriving us, in many cases, of the benefits of trial by jury:
For transporting us beyond seas to be tried for pretended offenses :
For abolishing the free system of English laws in a neighboring province, es
tablishing therein an arbitrary government, and enlarging its boundaries, so as
to render it at once an example and tit instrument for introducing the same abso
lute rule into these colonies :
For taking away our charters, abolishing our most valuable laws, and altering,
fundamentally, the forms of our governments :
For suspending our own legislatures, and declaring themselves invested with
power to legislate for us in all cases whatsoever.
lie has abdicated government here, by declaring us out of his protection, and
waging war against us.
He has plundered our seas, ravaged our coasts, burnt our towns, and destroved
the lives of our people.
lie is at this time transporting large armies of foreign mercenaries to complete
the works of death, desolation, and tyranny, already begun with circumstances of
cruelty and perfidy, scarcely paralleled in the most barbarous ages, and totally un
worthy the head of a civilized nation.
He has constrained our fellow-citizens, taken captive on the high seas, to bear
arms against their country, to become the executioners of their friends and
brethren, or to fall themselves by their hands.
He has excited domestic insurrections among us, and has endeavored to bring
on the inhabitants of our frontiers the merciless Indian savages, whose known
rule of warfare is an undistinguished destruction of all ages, sexes, and conditions.
In every stage of these oppressions we have petitioned for redress in the most
humble terms : our repeated petitions have been answered only by repeated in
jury. A prince, whose character is thus marked by every act which may define a
tyrant, is unfit to be the ruler of a free people.
Nor have we been wanting in attentions to our British brethren. We have
warned them, from time to time, of attempts by their legislature to extend an un
warrantable jurisdiction over us. We have reminded them of the circumstances
of our emigration and settlement here. We have appealed to their native justice
and magnanimity, and we have conjured them by the ties of our common kindred
to disavow these usurpations, which would inevitably interrupt our connections
and correspondence. They too have been deaf to the voice of justice and of con
sanguinity. We must, therefore, acquiesce in the necessity which denounces our
separation, and hold them, as wo hold the rest of mankind — enemies in war, in
peace, friends.
We, therefore, the representatives of the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, in general
viongress assembled, appealing to the Supreme Judge of the world for the rectitude
of our intentions, do, in the name and by the authority of the good people of these
colonies, solemnly publish and declare, That these United Colonies are, and of
right ought to be, FREE and INDEPENDENT STATES; that they are absolved from all
allegiance to the British crown, and that all political connection between them
and the state of Great Britain is, and ought to be, totally dissolved ; and that, as
FREE and INDEPENDENT STATES, they have full power to levy war, conclude peace,
contract alliances, establish commerce, and to do all other acts and things which
INDEPENDENT STATES may of right do. And for the support of this Declaration,
with a firm reliance on the protection of DIVINE PROVIDENCE, we mutually pledge
to eaoh other our lives, our fortunes, and our sacred honor. JOHN HANCOCK.
68 OUTLINE HISTORY'.
New Hampshire. — Josiah Bartlett, Wm. Whipple, Matthew Thornton.
Massachusetts Bay. — Samuel Adams, John Adams, Robert Treat Paine, El-
bridge Gerry.
Rhode Island, etc. — Stephen Hopkins, Wm. Ellery.
Connecticut. — Roger Sherman, Samuel Huntingdon, Wm. Williams, Oliver Wol-
cott.
New York. — Wm. Floyd, Philip Livingston, Francis Lewis, Lewis Morris.
New Jersey. — Richard Stockton, John Witherspoon, Francis Hopkinson, John
Hart, Abraham Clark.
Pennsylvania. — Robert Morris, Benjamin Rush, Benjamin Franklin, John Mor
ton, George Clymer, James Smith, George Taylor, James Wilson, George Ross.
Delaware. — Ceesar Rodney, Geo. Read, Thos. M'Kean.
Maryland. — Samuel Chase, Wm. Paca, Thomas Stone, Charles Carroll, of Cnr-
rollton.
Virginia. — George Wythe, Richard Henry Lee, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin
Harrison, Thomas Nelson, jr., Francis Lightfoot Lee, Carter Braxton.
North Carolina. — William Hooper, Joseph Hewes, John Penn.
South CaroHna. — Edward Rutledge, Thomas Hay ward, jr., Thomas Lynch, jr.,
Arthur Middleton.
Georgia. — Button Gwinnett, Lyman Hall, George Walton.
THE BRITISH EVACUATE BOSTON.
The Americans having closely invested Boston, and erected strong
fortifications from whence the British troops in the town could be an
noyed, they determined to abandon the place, which they did with
great alacrity, and General Washington marched into the city March
17, 1776. The news of the conflict aj; Bunker Hill determined the
British ministry to employ a powerful force to reduce the rebellious
colonies to submission. For this purpose, they took into pay sixteen
thousand German troops, which, with the British regiments, constituted
a force of about fifty thousand men, destined for America. They also
caused an act to be passed to prohibit all trade and intercourse be
tween Great Britain and the colonies. One clause in the act author
ized the seizure and condemnation of all American property on the
high seas ; and another was so inhuman as to compel the men taken on
board of American vessels to fight against their own countrymen.
As soon as Boston was evacuated, the American army was con
centrated at New York, for the purpose of repelling the British forces,
which it was supposed would be sent to occupy that central and im
portant position.
In June, 1776, the British fleet arrived at Sandy Hook, having on
board thirty -five thousand men including Hessian mercenaries, from
Germany, a body of cavalry, and warlike apparatus of every kind.
OUTLINE HISTORY.
69
Washington's force consisted only of seventeen thousand men, most of
whom were inexperienced and weakened by sickness. While in this
state, they erected fortifications on Long Island, and prepared to resist
the enemy. Before hostilities commenced, General Howe, the com
mander of the British forces, sent one of his officers to Washington,
and proposed conditions of peace, which amounted to little more than
the offer of pardon. Washington observed that, as the Americans had
committed no crime, they wanted no pardon. The officer returned,
and both parties prepared for action.
BATTLE OF LONG ISLAND.
On the 22d of August, the British troops landed on the south-west
side of Long Island, near Utrecht, and a party gained the rear of some
of the American forces. On the 27th of the month the attack com
menced; but the Americans being surrounded, and exposed to the fire of
the Hessians in front, and the British regulars in the rear, were severely
defeated. Some regiments forced their way through the enemy with
great loss ; but a large part fell in the action or became prisoners.
The Americans stated their loss at one thousand two hundred; the
British at three thousand. Among the slain, a regiment consisting of
young gentlemen of family and fortune in Maryland were almost en
tirely cut to pieces ; and of the survivors not one escaped without a
wound. General Sullivan, and Lord Sterling in the American service
fell into the hands of the enemy, whose loss was no more than three
or four hundred.
After this defeat General Washington with the advice of a council
of war, ordered a retreat from Long Island, on the night of the 29th.
This was effected with a success which was deemed a merciful dispen
sation of Heaven. The retreat was to have commenced at eight o'clock
but a strong adverse wind and tide prevented. Fortunately for the
Americans the wind changed, in their favor, and toward morning a
thick fog hung over Long Island which concealed their movements
from the enemy. Thus within a single night, an army of nine thous
and men, with their artillery, tents, and baggage, was transported to
New York over a difficult ferry of a mile in width, while part of the
British army was encamped within six hundred yards, and did not
discover the retreat, until it was too late to annoy them.
EXECUTION OF CAPTAIN HALE.
After the retreat from Long Island, Washington was very desirous
70
OUTLINE HISTORY.
of gaining some knowledge of the future designs of the enemy. For
this purpose he applied to Colonel Knowlton, who communicated this
request to Captain Nathan Hale, of Connecticut, who at once nobly
offered himself for this perilous enterprise. He passed in disguise to
Map of the Seat of War in New Jersey and Vicinity.
Long Island, and obtained the desired information respecting their
situation and future operations. On his way back he was arrested
and carried before Sir William Howe. The proof of his object was so
clear that he acknowledged it ; and he was ordered to be executed the
next morning. Before he was executed, he requested the Bible. It
was refused, and the letters he wrote to his mother and friends were
destroyed. This " martyr spy " was a young man of amiable char
acter, and died lamenting that "he had but one life to lose for his
country."
RETREAT OF THE AMERICAN ARMY THROUGH NEW JERSEY.
After a series of disasters, General Washington was obliged to re
treat from New York toward Pennsylvania, being pursued by the
enemy. This retreat was attended with many circumstances of a
painful and trying nature. The army which had consisted of thirty
thousand men was diminished down to scarcely three thousand, and
OUTLINE HISTORY. 7}
these were without provisions, without pay, and many of them very
poorly clothed. Their footsteps were stained with blood as they fled
before the enemy. Such was the desperate condition of the American
cause, that many who had been most confident of its success began to
despond and give up all as lost. Many persons went over to the
enemy, and took British protections.
THE VICTORY OF TRENTON.
In this season of general gloom, the American congress recom
mended to each of the states to observe " a day of solemn fasting and
humiliation before God." Washington now felt it important to make
a desperate effort for the salvation of his country. On the night of
December 25th 1776, the American army recrossed the Delaware, to
attack a division of Hessians, who were reposing at Trenton in fancied
security. His army was divided into three bodies, one of which he
ordered to cross the Delaware a little below the town, the second, a
considerable distance below, at Bordentown, while he himself, with
the third division directed his course to a ferry some miles above
Trenton.
The only division able to cross the river was that under the command
of Washington. This was accomplished with some difficulty on account
of the floating ice. He formed his force consisting of upward of two
thousand men in two divisions, each of which though taking different
roads reached Trenton about sunrise. The Hessians were taken by
surprise. Colonel Rahl, their commander endeavored to rally them,
but -being mortally wounded at the commencement of the action, his
troops were surrounded and they were obliged to lay down their arms.
About twenty of the enemy were killed and one thousand made priso
ners. Six field pieces and a thousand stand of arms were also taken.
Of the Americans two privates only were killed, two were frozen to
death, one officer and three or four privates wounded. This bold and
successful enterprise revived the depressed spirits of the Americans
and produced an immediate and happy effect in recruiting their army.
1777.— THIRD YEAR OF THE REVOLUTION.
BATTLE OF PRINCETON.
On the night of the 1st of January, 1777, General Washington,
who had possession of Trenton, ordered Generals Mifllin and Cad-
72 OUTLINE HISTORY.
wallader, who lay at Bordentown and Croswicks with three thousand
six hundred militia, to come to his assistance. His whole effective
force, after this accession, did not exceed five thousand men. Lord
Cornwallis having collected his scattered detachments at Princeton,
on the 2d of January, advanced toward Trenton in great force. On
their approach, General Washington retired across the Assunpink, a
creek that runs through the town. The British several times at
tempted to pass the bridge over the creek, but they were compelled
to fall back out of the reach of the American guns. The two armies
retained their positions on each side of the creek, and kept up a can
nonade until night.
"The situation of the American general was, at this moment, extremely critical.
Nothing but a stream, in many places fordable, separated his army from an
enemy, in every respect its superior. If he remained in his present position, he
•was certain of being attacked the next morning, at the hazard of the entire de
struction of his little army. If he should retreat over the Delaware, the ice in
that river not being firm enough to admit a passage upon it, there was danger of
great loss, perhaps of a total defeat; the Jerseys would be in full possession of the
enemy; the public mind would be depressed; recruiting would be discouraged;
and Philadelphia would be within the reach of General Howe. In this extremity,
he boldly determined to abandon the Delaware, and by a circuitous march along
the left flank of the enemy, fall into their rear at Princeton. As soon as it was
dark, the baggage was silently removed to Burlington; and about one o'clock the
army, leaving its fires lighted, and the sentinels on the margin of the creek, de
camped with perfect secresy. Its movement was providentially favored by the
weather, which had previously been so warm and moist, that the ground was soft,
and the roads were scarcely passable; but, the wind suddenly changing to the
north-west, the ground was, in a short time, frozen as hard as a pavement.
About sunrise, two British regiments, that were on their march under Lieuten
ant-Colonel Mawhood to join the rear of the British army at Maidenhead,* fell in
with the van of the Americans, conducted by General Mercer; and a very sharp
action ensued. The advanced party of Americans, composed chiefly of militia,
soon gave way, and the few regulars attached to them could not maintain their
ground. General Mercer, while gallantly exerting himself to rally his broken
troops, received a mortal wound. The British rushed forward with fixed bayo
nets, and drove back the Americans. General Washington, who followed close
in the rear, now led on the main body of the army, and attacked the enemy with
great spirit. While he exposed himself to their hottest fire, he was so well sup
ported by the same troops, which had aided him a few days before in the victory
at Trenton, that the British were compelled to give way. The 17th regiment,
* When Lord Cornwallis quitted Princeton, Lieutenant-Colonel Mawhood was left to de
fend it with the 17th, 40th, and 55th regiments; but orders had just been transmitted him
to march with the 17th and 55th regiments to Maidenhead, a village midway between
Princeton and Trenton. These were the two regiments now on their march.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 73
which was in front, forced its way through a part of the American troops, and
reached Maidenhead. The 55th regiment, which waa in the rear, retreated by the
way of Hillsborough to Brunswick. General Washington pressed forward to
Princeton. A party of the British, that had taken refuge in the college, after re
ceiving a few discharges from the American field pieces, came out and surren
dered themselves prisoners of war; but the principal part of the regiment, that
was left there, saved itself by a precipitate retreat to Brunswick. In this action,
upward of one hundred of the enemy were killed on the spot, and nearly three
hundred were taken prisoners. The loss of the Americans in killed was somewhat
less; but, beside General Mercer, Colonels Haslet and Potter, two brave and ex
cellent officers from Pennsylvania, Captain Neal of the artillery, Captain Fleming,
and five other valuable officers, were among the slain. *
Lord Cornwallis, discovering at day light that the American army had moved
off, broke up his camp, and commenced a rapid march to Brunswick, and was
close in the rear of the Americans before they left Princeton. General Wash
ington retired with his army to Morristown. During these movements, many of
the American soldiers were without shoes ; and their naked feet, in marching
over the frozen ground, were so gashed, as to mark each step with blood. There
was scarcely a tent in the whole army."
BRITISH INCURSION TO CONNECTICUT.
In April 1777, General Tryon, with three thousand men, landed in
Connecticut, between F airfield and Norwalk — advanced to Danbury,
burnt the continental stores and most of the town, and then retreated
to the shipping. On their return, Generals Wooster, Arnold and
Silliman, with such of the militia as could be hastily collected, ha
rassed them and killed a considerable number. The Americans lost
a few men, but among them was General Wooster, a brave and valu
able officer. In May, Colonel Meigs, with one hundred and seventy
men, passed over to Long Island, destroyed the British shipping at
Sagg Harbor, and took ninety prisoners without the loss of a man.
In July, Colonel Barton, of Rhode Island, with a few volunteers,
crossed the Narraganset at night, surprised and took prisoner Gene
ral Prescott.
BATTLE OF BRANDYWINE.
The force under General Washington had been so augmented, that
General Howe abandoned his plan of penetrating to Philadelphia
through New Jersey. He, therefore, embanked on board of his ship
ping, entered the Chesapeake, and landed at the head of the Elk. On
* General Mercer was from Virginia. Though a Scotchman by birth, yet from principle
and affection he had engaged to support the liberties of his adopted country. In the French
war, he had served with Washington, who greatly esteemed him. " In private life he was
amiable, and his character as an officer stood high in public esteem."
74 OUTLINE HISTORY.
September llth, an action was fought at Brandywine Creek, in which
the American forces, after a brave resistance, were obliged to yield to
superior numbers and discipline, with the loss of about twelve hun
dred men. In this action, the Marquis de La Fayette, a French, and
Count Pulnski, a Polish nobleman, both fought on the American side.
La Fayette was slightly wounded. General Washington being obliged
to retreat, encamped about eighteen miles from Philadelphia; while
General Howe took possession of that city.
DEFEAT OF DONOP BATTLE OF GERMANTOWN.
After having taken Philadelphia, it became necessary for General
Howe to take the forts in the Delaware, to open the communication
with the Atlantic. The Americans had constructed a fort on Mud
Island, and a redoubt at Red Bank on the opposite shore of New
Jersey. The enterprise against Red Bank was entrusted to Count
bonop, a brave German officer. The defense was entrusted to Colo
nel Christopher Greene, of Rhode Island, with about four hundred
soldiers. Count Donop was mortally wounded in the attack, and his
force entirely defeated, with the loss of about four hundred men.
While General Howe was engaged in removing the obstructions in
the Delaware, Washington made an attempt to surprise his camp at
Germ ant own.
" The American army, having moved from its ground about seven in the after
noon of the 3d of October, began an attack about sunrise the next morning.
The advance of the column led by Sullivan (which was accompanied by the coiu-
mander-in-chief ), encountered and drove in a picket, which presently gave way;
and his main body, soon following, engaged the light infantry and other troops
encamped near the picket, and forced them from their ground. Though closely
pursued, Lieutenant-Colonel Musgrove, with six companies, took post in a strong
stone house, which lay in the way of the Americans, and severely galled them by
a fire of musketry from the doors and windows. General Washington imme
diately ordered a brigade to surround the house; but Colonel Musgrove refused
to surrender. Four pieces of cannon were brought against him, but he sustained
the fire of them until Major-General Grey, with the 3rd brigade, and Brigadier-
General Agnew with the 4th, came to his assistance, and attacked the Americans
with great spirit. Jn the meantime General Greene arrived with his column,
and attacked the right wing of the enemy. Colonel Matthews routed a party of
the British opposed to him, killed several, and took one hundred and ten prison
ers; but from the darkness of the day, caused by an uncommonly thick fog, he
lost sight of the brigade to which he belonged, and was taken prisoner with his
whole regiment. At length a part of the right wing of the British attacked the
Americans on the opposite side of the town ; while General Grant moved up the
OUTLINE HISTORY.
75
49th regiment to the aid of the 4th, which was employed in supporting the troops
engaged with Greene's column. The embarrassments among the American
troops, occasioned by the darkness, had given the enemy time to recover from
their first consternation. While the front of Sullivan's division, having penetrated
far into Germantown, was very warmly engaged, the main body of the American
army began to retreat; and all efforts to rally it were ineffectual. In this battle,
about two hundred Americans were killed, nearly six hundred wounded, and
about four hundred made prisoners. Among the slain were General Nash, of
North Carolina, who fell at the head of his brigade, and his aid-de-camp, Major
Witherspoon. The loss of the enemy, in killed and wounded, was six hundred,
of whom less than one hundred were killed.
EXPEDITION OF GENERAL BURGOYNE.
While the British were making successful progress at the south, they
were severely checked in their operations in the northern section of
the country. An important object of
the British in the campaign of 1777,
was to open a free communication be
tween New York and Canada, and to
cut off, or obstruct the communication
between the New England and the other
States. For this purpose an army of
British and German troops, more than
seven thousand in number, were put un
der the command of General Burgoyne,
an able officer. The plan of operations
consisted of two parts: Burgoyne was to
advance from Canada by the way of Lake
Champlain to Albany to effect a junction
with the royal army from New York.
Lieut. Colonel St. Leger with two hun
dred British soldiers and a regiment of
-\T ~\T 11 TJ_ i cv T u T "L Map showing the Route of Burgoyne.
New York loyalists under Sir John John
son, and a large body of Indians, were to penetrate to Albany by the
way of Mohawk River.
In June, 1777, the British army, amounting to seven thousand men
besides Indians and Canadians, commanded by Burgoyne crossed the
lake, and laid seige to Ticonderoga. Having obtained possession of
Sugar Hill which commanded the American lines, General St. Clair
ordered the post to be abandoned.
76 OUTLINE HISTORY.
BATTLE AT HUBBARDTON.
The Americans, were severely harassed on their retreat, and finally
overtaken by General Frazer at Hubbardton. They made a brave
resistance, but on the arrival of the German troops were obliged to
give way. Two hundred of the Americans with Colonel Francis were
killed, and as many taken prisoners ; and above six hundred were
wounded, many of whom perished in the woods for want of assistance.
BATTLE OF BENNINGTON.
The Americans having collected a quantity of stores at Bennington,
Burgoyne detached Colonel Baum with five hundred men and one
hundred Indians either to seize or destroy what was collected. Colo
nel Breyman was sent to reinforce him, but did not arrive in time.
On August 16th, General Stark attacked Colonel Baum in his en
trenched camp, with about eight hundred militia and killed or took
prisoners nearly the whole detachment. The next clay Colonel Brey
man was attacked and defeated.
BATTLE OP ORISKANY.
On August 3d, St. Leger with about sixteen hundred men invested
Fort Schuyler, which was garrisoned by six hundred continental troops
under General Gansevoort. General Herkimer, who commanded the
militia of Tryon county, advancing to their relief, was waylaid by a
strong detachment of British troops and Indians. A most desperate
and murderous conflict ensued in which the Americans remained mas
ters of the field. The brave General Herkimer was mortally wounded.
St. Leger soon after abandoned the seige and returned to Montreal.
BATTLE OF STILLWATER.
General Burgoyne, having collected about thirty days' provisions,
crossed the Hudson and encamped on the hights and plains of Sar
atoga. General Gates, the American commander, advanced toward
the enemy, and encamped near Still water. On the 19th of Septem
ber the armies came in contact. The Americans fought with such
bravery under Colonel Morgan and General Arnold, that the enemy
could boast of no advantage, and night put an end to the action. The
loss of the enemy was estimated at six hundred, that of the Americans
between three and four hundred.
Both armies lay some time in sight of each other, each fortifying
its camp. Meanwhile Burgoyne's force daily decreased, his Indians
OUTLINE HISTORY.
77
deserted him, and his army was limited to half the usual amount of
provisions. His forage became exhausted, and his horses perished
in great numbers. To aggravate his distress, no intelligence had yet
been received of the approach of General Clinton, or of any diver
sion in his favor from New York.
"In this exigency, General Burgoyne resolved to examine the possibility of dis
lodging the Americans from their posts on the left, by which means he would be
enabled to retreat to the lakes. For this purpose he drew out fifteen hundred men,
which he headed himself, attended by Generals Phillips, Reidesel, and Frazer.
This detachment had scarcely formed, within less than half a mile of the Ameri
can intrenchments, when a furious attack was made on its left, but Major Ack-
land. at the head of the British grenadiers, sustained it with great firmness. The
Americans soon extended their attack along the whole front of the German
troops, which were posted on the right of the grenadiers; and marched a body
round their flank, to prevent their retreat. On this movement the British lic;ht
infantry with a part of the twenty-fourth regiment instantly formed, to cover the
retreat of the troops into the camp. Their left wing, in the meantime, over
powered with numbers, was obliged to retreat, and would inevitably have been
cut to pieces, but for the intervention of the same troops, which had just been
covering the retreat on the right. The whole detachment was now under the ne
cessity of retiring; but scarcely had the British troops entered the lines, when the
Americans, led by General Arnold, pressed forward, and, under a tremendous fire
of grape shot and musketry, assaulted the works throughout their whole extent
from right to left. Toward the close of the day, a part of the left of the Ameri
cans forced the intrenchments, and Arnold with a few men actually entered the
works; but his horse being killed, and he himself badly wounded in the leg, they
were forced out of them, and it being now nearly dark, they desisted from the at
tack. On the left of Arnold's detachment, Jackson's regiment of Massachusetts, led
bv Lieutenant Colonel Brooks, was still more successful. It turned the right of
the encampment, and carried by storm the works occupied by the German
reserve. Lieutenant Colonel Breyman was killed; and Brooks maintained the
ground he had gained. Darkness put an end to the action. The advantage of
the Americans was decisive. They killed a great number of the enemy; made
upward of two hundred prisoners, among whom were several officers of distinc
tion ; took nine pieces of brass artillery, and the encampment of a German bri
gade, with all their equipage. Among the slain of the enemy was General Fra
zer, an officer of distinguished merit, whose loss was particularly regretted. The
loss of the Americans was inconsiderable.
Gates posted fourteen hundred men on the hights opposite the Ford of Sara
toga ; two thousand in the rear, to prevent a retreat to Fort Edward, and fifteen
hundred at a ford higher up. Burgoyne, apprehensive of being hemmed in, re
tired immediately to Saratoga.
An attempt was now made to retreat to Fort George. Artificers were accord
ingly dispatched under a strong escort, to repair the bridges, and open the road to
Fort Edward; but they were compelled to make a precipitate retreat. The situa
tion of General Burgoyne becoming every hour more hazardous, he resolved to at
tempt a retreat by night to Fort Edward; but even this retrograde movement was
rendered impracticable. While the army was preparing to march, intelligence
78 OUTLINE HISTORY.
\v«s received that the Americans had already possessed themselves of Fort
Edward, and that they were well provided with artillery. No avenue to escape
now appeared. Incessant toil had worn down the whole British arrny, which did
not now contain more than three thousand five hundred fighting men. Provisions
were almost exhausted, and there were no possible means of procuring a supplv.
The American army, which was daily increasing, was already much greater than
the British in point of numbers, and almost encircled them. In this extremity,
the British general called a council of war; and it was unanimously resolved to
enter into a convention with General Gates. Preliminaries were soon settled, and
the royal army surrendered prisoners of war."
The whole number of British troops surrendered at Saratoga, Oct.
17, 1777, was five thousand seven hundred and fifty-two. The
thanks of congress were voted to General Gates and his army ; and
a medal of gold, in commemoration of this splendid achievement, was
ordered to be struck, and presented to him by the president, in the
name of the United States.
1778.— FOURTH YEAR OF THE REVOLUTION.
AN ALLIANCE FORMED WITH FRANCE.
The beginning of 1778, was distinguished by a treaty of alliance
ivith France. In 1776, congress had sent Silas Deane as agent to
France, to solicit a treaty, and procure arms arid military stores.
But the French court could give no open countenance to the agent,
although it was evident that they secretly wished success to the
Americans. Mr. Deane, however, procured some ammunition, cloth
ing, and a few muskets. The French would not officially listen to
any propositions of alliance until they had news of the surrender of
Burgoyne. That event decided the negotiation, and on the 6th of
February, 1778, a treaty of alliance, and a treaty of amity and com
merce were signed at Paris by the French ministry, and the American
commissioners, Dr. Franklin, Mr. Deane and Mr. Lee.
BRITISH GOVERNMENT OFFER TERMS OF RECONCILIATION.
The news of the alliance with France was received in America with
great joy, infusing new life and vigor into all their councils. In this
state of the public mind, the British commissioners arrived with terms
of reconciliation, which a few years earlier might have effected the
object. But the Americans bad gone too far, and were too confident
of the final success of their cause to think of any reconciliation which
OUTLINE HISTORY. 79
would place them in subjection to the British crown. The commis
sioners endeavored to make their conciliatory offers as public as pos
sible; on this occasion Governor Tryon inclosed several copies of the
bill to General Washington in a letter, entreating that he would allow
them to be circulated ; to which the general returned, for an answer,
a copy of a newspaper, in which the bill was printed, with the resolu
tions of congress upon it. These were, that whoever presumed to
make a separate agreement with Britain, should be deemed a public
enemy ; that the United States could not with propriety keep corres
pondence with the commissioners until their independence was ac
knowledged, and the British fleets and armies removed from America.
EVACUATION OF PHILADELPHIA AND BATTLE OF MONMOUTH.
On the alliance of America with France, it was resolved in Great
Britain immediately to evacuate Philadelphia, and to concentrate the
royal forces in the city and harbor of New York. In pursuance of
this resolution, the British army left Philadelphia in June, and
marched across New Jersey toward New York. In their march they
were annoyed by the Americans ; and on June 28th, a division of the
army under General Lee, was ordered, if possible, to bring them to an
engagement. The order was not obeyed: General Washington ar
rived, and riding up to General Lee, addressed him in terms that im
plied censure. Lee answered with warmth and disrespectful language.
Washington led the troops in person, and an action took place, in
which both parties claimed the victory ; but the advantage was evi
dently on the side of the Americans. The loss in killed and wounded
amounted to three or four hundred on each side. This battle took
place in Freehold, Monmouth county. Many of the soldiers died
without a wound, being overcome by the extreme heat and fatigue.
General Lee was tried by a court martial, and his command suspended
for one year. About one thousand soldiers, mostly Germans, deserted
from the enemy during their march.
ARRIVAL OF THE FRENCH FLEET.
A French fleet from Toulon, of twelve ships-of-the-line, and four
frigates, under the command of the Count D'Estaing, arrived at the en
trance of the Delaware in July ; but it was too late to intercept Lord
Howe's fleet, which had reached Sandy Hook. The count sailed and
lay off the Hook for some days, and then departed for Rhode Island.
It was proposed that D'Estaing, with the six thousand troops he had
80 OUTLINE HISTORY.
with him, should make a descent on the south part of the island, the
Americans at the north : at the same time the French fleet was to en
ter the harbor at Newport, and destroy the British shipping. Gen
eral Sullivan effected a landing on the island; but Lord Howe, with
the British fleet, appearing off" Newport, Count D'Estaing left the
seige, and sailed to fight him. A violent storm parted the two fleets,
and rendered them unfit for action, and the French vessels put into
Boston to refit. Gen. Sullivan was now obliged to raise the siege of
Newport: on his retreat an action took place in which two or three
hundred men were slain.
MASSACRE OF WYOMING — INVASION OF GEORGIA.
In July of this year, the flourishing settlements at Wyoming, on
the banks of the Susquehanna, were laid waste, and many of the in
habitants massacred, by a party of tories and Indians under Colonel
Butler. None escaped but a few women and children, who wandered
through the forests to the older settlements. In the autumn General
Clinton sent Colonel Campbell to invade Georgia. He arrived late in
December at Tybee, near Savannah, the fortifications of which were in
a decayed condition, and being feebly defended the British took pos
session of the place. At this time the Royalist Insurrection in North
Carolina was suppressed by the militia. In this year a more regular
discipline was introduced into the American army by Baron Steuben,
a German oflicer.
1779._FIFTH YEAR OF THE REVOLUTION.
MARAUDING INCURSION OF THE BRITISH.
The campaign of 1779, was distinguished for nothing decisive on
the part of the Americans or British. " It seems to have been the
object of the British to do but little more than to distress, plunder,
and consume. Early in the year Sir George Collier and General
Matthews were dispatched for Virginia. They landed at Portsmouth,
and destroyed the shipping and valuable stores in that vicinity and
many houses. In July an expedition from New York against the
southern margin of Connecticut was undertaken by Governor Tryon.
He was accompanied by General Garth and Sir George Collier, with
a fleet of armed transports. About two thousand men were landed at
New Haven, with but little effectual opposition ; the town was occu-
OUTLINE HISTORY. g}
pied for one night and partially plundered. The next day they em
barked, and sailing westward landed and burnt Fairfield. A few days
afterward they laid the town of Norwalk in ashes.
STORMING STONY POINT.
The campaign of this year was distinguished by a brilliant exploit
on the part of the Americans. The British having fortified Stony
Point, on the Hudson River, and garrisoned it with six hundred men,
Gen. Wayne was detached with a body of troops to take it. About
midnight of July 15th, two columns of Wayne's men moved to the
charge on opposite points of the works, with unloaded muskets, de
pending on the bayonet alone for success. Each column was pre
ceded by a forlorn hope of twenty men ; the one commanded by
Lieutenant Gibbons, and the other by Lieutenant Knox, whose duty
it was to remove the abbatis and other obstructions. A deep morass,
overflowed by the tide, and a double row of abbatis presented serious
impediments. Twenty minutes after twelve both columns rushed for
ward under a tremendous fire of musketry and grape shot, entered the
works at the point of the bayonet, and, meeting in the center of them
at nearly the same instant, compelled the garrison to surrender at dis
cretion.
ATTEMPTED REDUCTION OF PENOBSCOT.
An expedition of some importance was projected by the Americans
against the British post at Penobscot. With much difficulty they
effected a landing, erected several batteries, and kept up a fire for a
fortnight ; after which they proposed a general assault. But before
this could be effected they perceived Sir George Collier, with a
British fleet sailing up the river to attack them. On this they in
stantly embarked their artillery and military stores, sailing up the
river as far as possible to avoid him. They were, however, so closely
pursued that not a single vessel could escape; so that the whole
American fleet, consisting of nineteen armed vessels, and twenty-four
transports, was destroyed : most being blown up by themselves.
MILITARY OPERATIONS IN CAROLINA AND GEORGIA.
General Lincoln, having been appointed to the command of the
southern American army, established his first post at Purisburg, a
small village on the northern bank of Savannah River. In May,
General Ash was defeated at Briar Creek by the enemy under General
82 OUTLINE HISTORY.
Prevost, with the loss of one hundred and fifty men killed, and about
the same number taken. Emboldened by this success, General Pre
vost contemplated taking possession of Charleston ; but the most
strenuous efforts of the governor of the state, the militia, and the
commander of the regular forces, defeated the attempt. In September
Count D'Estaing arrived with his fleet from the West Indies, and it
was determined to attack General Prevost at Savannah. At first a
regular siege was begun, but the count, impatient of delay, urged an
assault. On October 9th, an attempt was made to storm the works;
both the French and Americans behaved with gallantry, but were re
pulsed with the loss of nearly one thousand men. Count Pulaski, a
Polish nobleman in the service of the Americans, was mortally
wounded in the assault.
SULLIVAN'S INDIAN CAMPAIGN.
The American congress through its measures with the Indians, en
deavored to secure the frontiers from invasion. The Six Nations
had been advised by that body, and had promised to observe a neu
trality in the war : but excepting the Oneidas, and a few others who
were friendly to the Americans, those Indians took a decided stand
against them. The presents of John Johnson and other British agents,
with the desire of plunder, induced them to invade the frontiers ;
and wherever they went, they carried slaughter and devastation.
An expedition was therefore ordered against them; and General
Sullivan, to whom the conduct of it was intrusted, marched into their
country. The Indians on his approach took a strong post in the most
woody and mountainous part of their territory, where they constructed
breastworks of large logs of wood. General Sullivan with artillery
cannonaded their works with such success that they were mostly de
stroyed, and after a conflict of about two hours the Indians fled with
precipitation. The victorious army penetrated into the heart of their
country, and laid it desolate. Their villages, their habitations, many
of which were of a superior order, their cornfields, fruit trees, and
gardens were indiscriminately destroyed.
1780.— SIXTH YEAR OF THE REVOLUTION.
THE SEAT OF WAR TRANSFERRED TO THE SOUTH.
Sir Henry Clinton finding it more easy to make an impression on
the southern states, which were less populous than the northern, and
OUTLINE HISTORY.
83
which being a level country, rendered the transportation of artillery
less difficult, determined to make them the seat of war. He accord
ingly, in the severe winter of 1779-80, sailed from New York with a
large force, and after a tempestuous passage, in which he lost some of
his transports, arrived at Savannah in the latter part of January.
From Savannah his army proceeded to Charleston, and in April laid
seige to that city. The enemy made regular approaches, and finally
being prepared to storm the town, General Lincoln, its commander,
was obliged to capitulate. About two thousand five hundred men, be-
Map Showing Position of Battle Fields in the South.
sides the militia and inhabitants, became prisoners, and all the cannon
and military stores fell into their possession. The capitulation took
place on the 12th of May. Clinton now left Lord Cornwallis to com
mand the southern army, and returned himself to New York. Great
numbers of the people in South Carolina, being left defenseless, re
turned to their allegiance, and the British commander represented the
state as subdued.
6
84 OUTLINE HISTORY.
SUMTER'S VICTORY AT HANGING ROCK.
As the British advanced to the upper part of South Carolina, a con
siderable number of the patriotic Americans retreated before them
into North Carolina. Colonel Sumter, a distinguished partisan, at the
head of a little band of freemen, returned to his own state ; and after
all ideas of further resistance had been generally abandoned, took the
field against the victorious enemy. On July 12th, one hundred and
thirty-three of his corps attacked and routed a detachment of royal
forces and militia. This had such an effect that the troops of Sumter
amounted in a few days to six hundred men. He soon attacked and
defeated a large body of British troops and tories at Hanging Rock.
In the meantime, several corps of continental troops and militia hav
ing formed a junction, were conducted by the Baron de Kalb, a Ger
man officer, into South Carolina. On July 27th, they were joined by
General Gates, who had been appointed to the chief command in the
southern states.
BATTLE OF CAMDEN.
Lord Cornwallis hearing that General Gates was approaching Cam-
den, repaired to that place to reinforce Lord Rawdon. The two armies
met on the 16th of August, and a severe action ensued, commencing
at the break of day. The British troops having the advantage of the
ground, attacked the Americans with great vigor. The American
militia fled at the first fire, and could not be rallied; the regular Ameri
can troops fought with great bravery, but were at last overcome, and
retreated, leaving their artillery, wagons, and two thousand stand of
arms. Their loss in killed and wounded was about seven hundred men ;
the British loss was about half that number. The rout of the militia
was so great that the British cavalry pursued them twenty-two miles
from the place of action. The Baron de Kalb, the second in command
in the American army, was mortally wounded. General Gates, with
the feeble remains of his army, retreated to Hillsborough, in North
Carolina.
BATTLE OF KING'S MOUNTAIN.
After the defeat of Gates, Lord Cornwallis exerted himself with
considerable success, to extend his triumph. In the district of Nine
ty-six, Major Ferguson took great pains to discipline the loyalists or
tory militia, and with a party of these and some British troops, amount
ing in all to about fourteen hundred, made incursions into the country.
The hardy mountaineers of Carolina and Virginia, constituting a con-
OUTLINE HISTORY. 35
^iderable force, advanced by a rapid movement toward Ferguson, and
compelled him to retire. Being followed by about one thousand six
hundred mounted riflemen, Ferguson seeing that he must be overtaken,
strongly posted his men at King's Mountain. The Americans forming
themselves in three divisions under Colonels Campbell, Shelby and
Cleveland, ascended the mountain in three different and opposite di
rections. After a furious action, Ferguson and one hundred and fifty
of his men were killed on the spot, about the same number wounded,
and eight hundred and ten were made prisoners.
TREASON OF ARNOLD.
In the year 1780, a plot of great danger to the American cause was
timely discovered. The author of the plot was General Arnold, who,
having been wounded, was appointed to a command in Philadelphia,
where his extravagance and his overbearing conduct had caused a se
vere inquiry to be made into his conduct. He was tried by a court
martial, by which he was sentenced to be reprimanded. This aroused
his passions, and disaffected him to the American cause. Being still
valued for his bravery, he was entrusted with the important command
at West Point. He took that opportunity to carry on a negotiation
with the British commander at New York, for the surrender of the
post into the hands of the enemy.
To facilitate measures for the consummation of the plot, Major
Andre, adjutant general of the British army, proceeded to West Point
in disguise, where he took plans of the fortresses, and agreed upon
the time and manner of attack. He then received a passport from
Arnold, and set out on his return to New York, under the name of
Anderson. He succeeded in passing all the outposts of the American
arrny, when, riding along the road in Tarry town, he was stopped by
three militia men, who were on a scouting party. When arrested, he
offered his watch, a purse of gold and a large reward, if they would
allow him to proceed. But these men, though poor, could not be
bribed. They found papers in his boot, which showed that he was a
spy. He was tried by a board of officers, condemned, and hung at
Tappan, New York, October 3d. Arnold, hearing of the capture of
Andre, escaped, and was made a brigadier general in the British
army.
86 OUTLINE HISTORY.
1781.—SEVENTH YEAR OF THE REVOLUTION.
MUTINY OF THE PENNSYLVANIA LINE.
The beginning of 1781 was distinguished by a mutiny in the Penn
sylvania line of the American army. This was occasioned by their
severe sufferings and privations, and the depreciation of the continen
tal or paper money, with which they had been paid. This became so
much reduced in value, that the four months pay of a soldier would
not procure a bushel of wheat, and the pay of a colonel would not pro
cure oats sufficient for his horse. A committee of congress were ap
pointed to confer with the authorities of Pennsylvania, who, confer
ring with the soldiers, were able to effect an adjustment of their diffi
culties.
BATTLE OF COWPENS.
After the defeat of General Gates in Carolina, General Greene was
appointed to the command of the American troops in that quarter.
From this period, the aspect of the war was more favorable to the
American cause. General Greene was accompanied by General Mor
gan, an active officer who commanded a body of riflemen. On the en
trance of Morgan into the district of Ninety-six, Lord Cornwallis di
rected Colonel Tarleton to drive him from this section, and apush him
to the utmost." On January 27th, Morgan, after having been closely
pursued by Tarleton, determined to make a stand at Cowpens. He
drew up his men in two lines; the first, consisting of militia, were
placed in front of a wood, while his best troops were drawn up in the
rear and out of sight. The first line soon gave way, and as Tarleton
pursued them, the other line opened, to let his men advance until they
were placed between two fires, when a deadly discharge from Morgan's
troops threw the enemy into irrecoverable disorder. The enemy lost
three hundred killed, and five hundred wounded; the American loss
was but twelve killed, and sixty wounded.
BATTLE AT GUILFORD COURT HOUSE.
After the battle of Cowpens, Lord Cornwallis determined to inter
cept Morgan, and retake the prisoners, but a heavy rain so swelled the
rivers as to prevent his design. General Greene having at length
joined General Morgan with additional forces, and Lord Cornwallis
having collected his troops, the armies met March 15, 1781, near the
court house in Guilford. The Americans amounted to between four and
OUTLINE HISTORY. gf
five thousand men, but mostly militia or inexperienced soldiers; the
British force consisted of about two thousand four hundred men,
chiefly veteran troops. The battle which ensued was fought with great
bravery and effect, for although Cornwallis remained master of the
field, his losses in a country where he could not recruit his army had
the effect of a defeat. The loss of the British in killed, wounded and
missing, was upward of five hundred men. The Americans lost about
four hundred.
BATTLE OF EUTAW SPRINGS.
Many skirmishes and movements took place between the British and
Americans during the summer of 1781. On the 19th of September,
General Greene, with about two thousand men, attacked Colonel
Stewart at Eutaw Springs. After a severe fire between the advanced
parties, the action became general, and the American militia gave way.
General Greene then ordered the regular troops of the Virginia and
Maryland lines to advance with trailed arms, and make a free use of
the bayonet. A shower of musketry and a severe cannonade was
directed against them in vain, for they pressed on and gained the vic
tory. In the evening of the next day, Colonel Stewart leaving sev
enty of his wounded, and a thousand stand of arms, moved toward
Charleston. His whole loss was estimated at one thousand one hun
dred. The loss of the Americans in killed, wounded and missing was
five hundred and fifty-four ; among the missing was Colonel Washing
ton, who was wounded and taken prisoner.
CORNWALLIS ENCAMPS AT YORKTOWN.
After the action at Guilford, Lord Cornwallis retreated to Wilming
ton, North Carolina. His troops suffered much from the want of pro
visions and the extreme heat of the climate. From thence he pro
ceeded by a forced march to Virginia, to join General Philips, who,
with General Arnold, had been committing great ravages in that state.
After some predatory warfare, Cornwallis finally encamped at York-
town and Gloucester Point, on York River, which affords deep water
for shipping, and there he fortified his camps. The main body of his
army was on the south side of the river at Yorktown, and his whole
force was about seven thousand men.
INVESTMENT OF YORKTOWN.
At the time Cornwallis was fortifying his position at Yorktown,
the main body of the American army under Washington, was at White
88 OUTLINE HISTORY.
Plains, in the vicinity of New York. After making a show of attack
ing New York, in order to divert the attention of the enemy, Wash
ington suddenly left his camp, crossed the Hudson with his army, and
passing through New Jersey and Pennsylvania,, speedily arrived at the
head of the Elk, where a part of his forces embarked and sailed to Vir
ginia; the rest marched by land. On the arrival of the Americans, a
French fleet under Count de Grasse, appeared in the Chesapeake, and a
body of French troops were landed from the fleet to assist the Ameri
cans. The whole combined force under General Washington, amount
ing to twelve or thirteen thousand men, besides the militia, closely
invested the British army at Yorktown.
As soon as Sir Henry Clinton discovered that General Washington
had drawn off his forces toward Virginia, he sent General Arnold, the
traitor, on another expedition for plunder and destruction. On the 6th
of September the British troops were landed in two divisions, one on
each side of the harbor of New London, Connecticut. The east side
was defended by Fort Griswold. This was garrisoned by about one
hundred and fifty men, suddenly collected from the vicinity, under the
command of Colonel Ledyard. After a brave resistance, the fort was
taken by assault, and the garrison was slaughtered after they had sur
rendered. Colonel Ledyard was slain by his own sword. Colonel
Eyre, the commander of the British detachment, was wounded, and
Major Montgomery was killed while entering the fort. The detach
ment under General Arnold, who landed on the west side of the har
bor, proceeded to New London, the most valuable part of which, with
its stores, were laid in ashes. Arnold having completed the objects of
the expedition, returned to New York.
SURRENDER OF CORNWALLIS.
The British forces at Yorktown being blockaded by sea, the Ameri
can army opened their batteries upon them, on the 9th and 10th of
October, with great effect. Two British redoubts which annoyed the
besiegers were taken by storm, one by the Americans, who attacked
with unloaded arms and carried the works with little loss ; the other
by a detachment of French troops with considerable loss. The second
parallel was begun on the night of the llth, and such was the tremen
dous effect of the American artillery, that the British works were de
molished. Lord Cornwallis seeing no hope of relief or escape re-
OUTLINE HISTORY. 39
mained, on the 19th of October, 1781, he surrendered his army,
consisting of upward of seven thousand men, to General Washington,
and the ships and seamen to Count de Grasse, the commander of the
French fleet.
As the capture of Cornwallis was considered as deciding the war,
the news was received by the American people with emotions of the
greatest joy. "Divine service was performed in all the American
brigades, and the commander-in-chief recommended that all who were
not on duty should join in the worship, with a serious deportment, and
that sensibility of heart, due to the recollection of the surprising and
particular interposition of Providence. Congress resolved to go in
procession to church, and make public acknowledgment of gratitude
to heaven for the singular event. A public thanksgiving was recom
mended, and the day was observed throughout the United States."
Washington liberated all persons under arrest, that all might partake
of the general joy.
END OF THE REVOLUTION.
The capture of Cornwallis and his army convinced the British peo
ple of the utter impracticability of conquering the United States. A
new ministry was appointed, who advised the British monarch to dis
continue all further attempts to subdue the Americans. General
Carleton was appointed to the command in America, and arrived in
May, 1782, with instructions to propose an accommodation. On No
vember 20th, provisional articles of peace were signed, by which the
independence and sovereignty of the United States were acknowl
edged. On the 3d day of September, 1783, a definitive treaty was
signed, which secured to the United States the objects for which they
had contended, and gave them a rank among nations.
CONTINENTAL MONEY.
When the American army was about to be disbanded, serious diffi
culties arose respecting the payment of their wages. The paper, or
continental money, with which the soldiers had been paid, had become
entirely worthless, and nearly five hundred millions of dollars of it
had been issued. Many of the officers and soldiers could not make a
decent appearance in point of dress, and many of their families were
in a state of suffering at home. Large numbers of the officers had
expended their private fortunes in the service of their country, and
had the prospect of being dismissed in poverty, with no provision for
their future support. In this state of things, addresses were privately
£)0 OUTLINE HISTORY.
circulated among the officers, in order to stir them up to violent meas
ures to obtain their just rights. This was a most dangerous crisis.
By the efforts and entreaties of Washington, the rising tumults were
quelled, and the army was disbanded in peace. Washington delivered
to the president of congress his military commission, and retired to
private life.
THE STATES ADOPT A PLAN OF CONFEDERATION.
In 1778, a plan of confederation and union was formed by con
gress, which was finally agreed to by all the state legislatures. The
states were compelled, during the war, to act in concert, by the prin
ciples of common safety ; and the resolutions of congress were gen
erally carried into effect by the several state legislatures. When
freed, from the pressure of external dangers, the weakness of the
confederation began to appear. Congress had no power to levy taxes
to supply their treasury. The various states soon became delinquent
in raising the funds apportioned to them, and the national treasury
was left unsupplied. Congress then attempted to raise a revenue by
a duty on foreign goods ; this was agreed to by all the states except
ing Rhode Island and New York, and their opposition defeated the
measure.
FORMATION OF THE FEDERAL CONSTITUTION.
The confederation being found utterly insufficient to accomplish the
ends of a national union, delegates were assembled at Annapolis for
the purpose of consulting on the formation of some general and effi
cient government. This body adjourned and recommended that a
general convention should be held the next year. Accordingly, in
May, 1787, delegates from all the states excepting Rhode Island as
sembled at Philadelphia, and appointed General Washington their
president. ik After four months' deliberation, in which the clashing
interests of the several states appeared in all their force," the conven
tion united upon a frame of government.*
* " In May, 1787, the convention met at Philadelphia for the revision of the articles of con
federation, twelve states being represented by men distinguished by their talents, character,
practical abilities and public services. Franklin, who had been among the first to propose
a colonial union in 1754, was there ; Dickinson, as delegate from Delaware ; Johnson, of
Connecticut, and Rutledge, of South Carolina, who had been movers in the stamp act con
gress of 1765. Beside Benjamin Franklin, there were present seven who had signed the
declaration of independence, all tried men and true, while the revolutionary army was rep
resented by Washington, Mifflin, Hamilton and Pinckney ; eighteen were members at the
same time of the continental congress. Altogether, the convention numbered about fifty
delegates.
On the 29th of May, the business of the convention was opened by Randolph, of Vir-
OUTLINE HISTORY. 91
The states referred the question of adopting the frame of govern
ment to conventions appointed for that express purpose. It was
objected that the constitution proposed, abridged the states of their
sovereignty, and amounted to a consolidation. Many other objections
were urged, especially in the large states. At length, however, this
frame of federal government was accepted and ratified in 1788, by
eleven states. The first convention of North Carolina rejected it, as
did the town meetings to which it was referred in Rhode Island. But
North Carolina acceded to it in 1789, and Rhode Island (the thirteenth
and last state), in May, 1790.
" The ratification of the federal constitution was celebrated in the
large cities, with great joy and splendid exhibitions. A ship, the em
blem of commerce, and shops for mechanical labor, and the emblems
of manufactures, were mounted on wheels and drawn through the
streets, attended by immense processions of citizens arranged accord
ing to their professions ; while bands of music, streaming flags, and
the roar of cannons manifested the enthusiasm writh which the people
received the authority of the national government."
THE CONSTITUTION OF THE UNITED STATES.
We, the People of the United States, in order to form a more perfect union, es
tablish justice, insure domestic tranquillity, provide for the common defense, pro
mote the general welfare, and secure the blessings of liberty to ourselves and our
posterity, do ordain and establish this Constitution for the United States of
America.
ARTICLE I.
SECTION I.
1. All legislative powers herein granted, shall be vested in a congress of the
United States, which shall consist of a senate and house of representatives.
ginia, this honor being conceded to Virginia as her due, the idea of the convention having
originated with her. All the business, however, proceeded with closed doors, and an injunc
tion of inviolate secresy. The members were not even allowed to take copies of the pro
ceedings. They had met to revise and amend the articles of confederation, instead of which
it was soon deemed advisable to form a new constitution. Long and arduous debates fol
lowed ; months went on in discussion and deliberation ; the soundness and wisdom of purely
democratic and republican governments were questioned; committees sat; adjournments
took place ; causes of dispute occurred ; rival parties contended, federalists and anti-fede
ralists ; slaveholding and free states (difficulties having arisen even then between the slave-
holding and the non-slaveholding states as regarded representation and every other inter
est). But if doubt, and difficulty, and discord arose, they were met and overcome. Nor can
any greater argument be advanced in favor of the sound wisdom and the true patriotism of
every party, than that all opposing interests and all questions of contention were gradually
compromised: and spite of every opposing element, spite of selfish interests, and the jeal
ousies and rivalries of opposing parties, a rough draft of the proposed constitution was pre
pared by the beginning of August, and forms in fact the present constitution of the United
S tates. ' ' — Ifowitt'a America .
92 OUTLINE HISTORY.
SECTION II.
1. The house of representatives shall be composed of members chosen every
second year by the people of the several states ; and the electors in each state
shall have the qualifications requisite for electors of the most numerous branch of
the state legislature.
2. No person shall be a representative who shall not have attained to the age of
twenty-five years, and been seven years a citizen of the United States, and who
shall not, when elected, be an inhabitant of that state in which he shall be chosen.
3. Representatives and direct taxes shall be apportioned among the several
states which may be included within this union, according to their respective
numbers, which shall be determined by adding to the whole number of free per
sons including those bound to service for a term of years, and excluding Indians
not taxed, three fifths of all other persons. The actual enumeration shall be made
within three years after the first meeting of the congress of the United States, and
within every subsequent term of ten years, in such manner as they shall by law
direct. The number of representatives shall not exceed one for every thirty thous
and, but each state shall have at least one representative ; and until such enume
ration shall be made, the state of New Hampshire shall be entitled to choose
three; Massachusetts, eight; Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, one; Con
necticut, five ; New York, six; New Jersey, four; Pennsylvania, eight; Delaware,
one; Maryland, six; Virginia, ten; North Carolina, five; South Carolina, five;
and Georgia, three.
4. When vacancies happen in the representation from any state, the executive
authority thereof shall issue writs of election to fill up such vacancies.
5. The house of representatives shall choose their speaker and other officers,
and shall have the sole power of impeachment.
SECTION III.
1. The senate of the United States shall be composed of two senators from each
state, chosen by the legislature thereof, for six years; and each senator shall have
one vote.
2. Immediately after they shall be assembled in consequence of the first elec
tion, they shall be divided, as equally as may be, into three classes. The seats of
the senators of the first class shall be vacated at the expiration of the second year;
of the second class, at the expiration of the fourth year; and of the third class, at
the expiration of the sixth year: so that one third may be chosen every second
year; and if vacancies happen, by resignation or otherwise, during the recess of
the legislature of any state, the executive thereof may make temporary appoint
ments until the next meeting of the legislature, which shall then fill such vacan
cies.
3. No person shall be a senator who shall not have attained to the age of thirty
years, and been nine years a citizen of the United States, and who shall not, when
elected, be an inhabitant of that state for which he shall be chosen.
4. The vice-president of the United States shall be president of the senate, but
shall have no vote unless they be equally divided.
5. The senate shall choose their other officers, and also a president pro tempore,
in the absence of the vice-president, or when he shall exercise the office of presi
dent of the United States.
6. The senate shall have the sole power to try all impeachments. When ait
ting for that purpose, they shall be on oath or affirmation. When the president
OUTLINE HISTORY. 93
of the United States is tried, the chief justice shall preside; and no person shall
be convicted without the concurrence of two thirds of the members present.
7. Judgment, in case of impeachment, shall not extend further than to removal
from office, and disqualification to hold and enjoy any office of honor, trust, or
profit, under the United States; but the party convicted shall, nevertheless, be
liable and subject to indictment, trial, judgment, and punishment, according to
law.
SECTION IV.
1. The times, places, and manner of holding elections for senators and repre
sentatives, shall be prescribed in each state by the legislature thereof; but the
congress may, at any time, by law, make or alter such regulations, except as to
the places of choosing senators.
2. The congress shall assemble at least once in every year, and such meeting
shall be on the first Monday in December, unless they shall by law appoint a dif
ferent day.
SECTION v.
1. Each house shall be the judge of the elections, returns, and qualification of its
own members; and a majority of each shall constitute a quorum to do business;
but a smaller number may adjourn from day to day, and may be authorized to
compel the attendance of absent members, in such manner and under such penal
ties as each house may provide.
2. Each house may determine the rules of its proceedings, punish its members
for disorderly behavior, and, with the concurrence of two thirds, expel a member.
3. Each house shall keep a journal of its proceedings, and from time to time
publish the same, excepting such parts as may in their judgment require secresy;
and the yeas and nays of the members of either house, on any question, shall, at
the desire of one fifth of those present, be entered on the journal.
4. Neither house, during the session of congress, shall, without the consent of
the other, adjourn for more than three days, nor to any other place than that in
which the two houses shall be sitting.
SECTION VI.
1. The senators and representatives shall receive a compensation for their ser
vices, to be ascertained by law, and paid out of the treasury of the United States.
They shall, in all cases, except treason, felony, and breach of the peace, be privi
leged from arrest during their attendance at the session of their respective houses,
and in going to or returning from the same ; and for any speech or debate in
either house, they shall not be questioned in any other place.
2. No senator or representative shall, during the time for which he was elected,
be appointed to any civil office under the authority of the United States which
shall have been created, or the emoluments whereof shall have been increased,
during such time; and no person holding any office under the United States shall
be a member of either house during his continuance in office.
SECTION vn.
1. All bills for raising revenue shall originate in the house of representatives ;
but the senate may propose or concur with amendments, as on other bills.
2. Every bill which shall have passed the house of representatives and the sen
ate, shall, before it become a law, be presented to the president of the United
94 OUTLINE HISTORY.
States; if he approve, he shall sign it; but if not, he shall return it, with his ob
jections, to that house in which it shall have originated, who shall enter the ob
jection at large on their journal, and proceed to reconsider it. If, after such
reconsideration, two thirds of that house shall agree to pass the bill, it shall be
sent, together with the objections, to the other house, by which it shall likewise
be reconsidered, and if approved by two thirds of that house, it shall become a
law. But in all such cases, the votes of both houses shall be determined by yeas
and nays, and the names of the persons voting for and against the bill shall be
entered on the journal of each house respectively. If any bill shall not be re
turned by the president within ten days (Sundays excepted) after it shall have
been presented to him, the same shall be a law in like manner as if he had signed
it, unless the congress by their adjournment prevent its return, in which case it
shall not be a law.
3. frvery order, resolution, or vote, to which the concurrence of the senate and
house of representatives may be necessary, except on a question of adjournment,
shall be presented to the president of the United States; and before the same shall
take effect, shall be approved by him, or being disapproved by him, shall be re-
passed by two thirds of the senate and house of representatives, according to the
rules and limitations prescribed in the case of a bill.
SECTION VIII.
The congress shall have power —
1. To lay and collect taxes, duties, imposts, and excises; to pay the debts and
provide for the common defense and general welfare of the United States; but all
duties, imposts!, and excises, shall be uniform throughout the United States:
2. To borrow money on the credit of the United States:
3. To regulate commerce with foreign nations, and among the several states,
and with the Indian tribes :
4. To establish a uniform rule of naturalization, and uniform laws on the sub
ject of bankruptcies throughout the United States :
5. To coin money, regulate the value thereof, and of foreign coin, and fix the
standard of weights and measures :
6. To provide for the punishment of counterfeiting the securities and current
coin of the United States :
7. To establish post offices and post roads :
8. To promote the progress of science and useful arts, by securing for limited
times to authors and inventors the exclusive right to their respective writings and
discoveries :
9. To constitute tribunals inferior to the supreme court:
10. To define and punish piracies and felonies committed on the high seas, and
offenses against the laws of nations :
11. To declare war, grant letters of marque and reprisal, and make rules con
cerning captures on land and water:
12. To raise and support armies, but no appropriation of money to that use
shall be for a longer term than two years :
13. To provide and maintain a navy:
14. To make rules for the government and regulation of the land and naval
forces :
15. To provide for calling forth the militia to execute the laws of the union,
suppress insurrections, and repel invasions.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 95
JG. To provide for organizing, arming, and disciplining the militia, and for
governing such part of them as may be employed in the service of the United
•States, reserving to the states, respectively, the appointment of the officers, and
the authority of training the militia according to the discipline prescribed by con
gress.
17. To exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatsoever, over such district,
not exceeding ten miles square, as may, by cession of particular states, and the
acceptance of congress, become the seat of government of the United States, and
to exercise like authority over all places purchased by the consent of the legisla
ture of the state in which the same shall be, for the erection of forts, magazines,
arsenals, dock-yards, and other needful buildings; and,
18. To make all laws which shall be necessary and proper for carrying into
execution the foregoing powers, and all other powers vested by this constitution
in the government of the United States, or in any department or officer thereof.
SECTION IX.
1. The migration or importation of such persons as any of the states now ex
isting shall think proper to admit, shall not be prohibited by the congress prior to
the year one thousand eight hundred and eight, but a tax or duty may be imposed
on such importation, not exceeding ten dollars for each person.
2. The privilege of the writ of habeas corpus shall not be suspended, unless
when, in cases of rebellion or invasion, the public safety may require it.
3. No bill of attainder, or ex post facto law, shall be passed.
4. No capitation or other direct tax shall be laid, unless in proportion to the
census or enumeration hereinbefore directed to be taken.
5. No tax or duty shall be laid on articles exported from any state. No pre
ference shall be given by any regulation of commerce or revenue to the ports of
one state over those of another; nor shall vessels bound to or from one state, be
obliged to enter, clear, or pay duties in another.
6. No money shall be drawn from the treasury, but in consequence of appro
priations made by law ; and a regular statement and account of the receipts and
expenditures of all public money shall be published from time to time.
7. No title of nobility shall be granted by the United States, and no person
holding any office of profit or trust under them, shall, without the consent of the
congress, accept of any present, emolument, office, or title of any kind whatever,
from any king, prince or foreign state.
SECTION x.
1. No state shall enter into any treaty, alliance, or confederation ; grant letters
of marque and reprisal; coin money; emit bills of credit; make anything but gold
and silver coin a tender in payment of debts ; pass any bill of attainder, ex post
facto law, or law impairing the obligation of contracts ; or grant any title of no
bility.
2. No state shall, without the consent of the congress, lay any imposts or duties
on imports or exports, except what may be absolutely necessary for executing its
inspection laws ; and the net produce of all duties and imposts, laid by any state
on imports or exports, shall be for the use of the treasury of the United States,
and all such laws shall be subject to the revision and control of the congress. No
state shall, without the consent of congress, lay any duty of tunnage, keep troops
or ships of war in time of peace, enter into any agreement or compact with an-
96 OUTLINE HISTORY.
other state, or with a foreign power, or engage in war, unless actually invaded, or
in such imminent danger as will not admit of delay.
ARTICLE JL
SECTION T.
1. The executive power shall be vested in a president of the United States of
America. He shall hold his office during the term of four years, and, together
with the vice-president, chosen for the same term, be elected as follows :
2. Each state shall appoint, in such manner as the legislature thereof may di
rect, a number of electors, equal to the whole number of senators and representa
tives to which the state may be entitled in the congress ; but no senator or repre
sentative, or person holding an office of trust or profit under the United States,
shall be appointed an elector.
[3. The electors shall meet in their respective states, and vote by ballot for two
persons, of whom one at least shall not be an inhabitant of the same state with
themselves. And they shall make a list of all the persons voted for, and of the
number of votes for each; which list they shall sign and certify, and transmit
sealed to the seat of the government of the United States, directed to the presi
dent of the senate. The president of the senate shall, in the presence of the sen
ate and house of representatives, open all the certificates, and the votes shall then
be counted. The person having the greatest number of votes shall be president,
if such number be a majority of the whole number of electors appointed; and if
there be more than one who have such majority, and have an equal number of
votes, then the house of representatives shall immediately choose, by ballot, one
of them for president; and if no person have a majority, then, from the five high
est on the list, the said house shall, in like manner, choose the president. But, in
choosing the president, the votes shall be taken by states, the representation from
each state having one vote; a quorum for this purpose shall consist of a member
or members from two thirds of the states, and a majority of all the states shall bo
necessary to a choice. In every case, after the choice of the president, the per
son having the greatest number of votes of the electors, shall be the vice-president.
But if there should remain two or more who have equal votes, the senate shall
choose from them, by ballot, the vice-president.*]
4. The congress may determine the time of choosing the electors, and the day
on which they shall give their votes : which day shall be the same throughout the
United States.
5. No person, except a natural born citizen, or a citizen of the United States at
the time of the adoption of this constitution, shall be eligible to the office of presi
dent: neither shall any person be eligible to that office, who shall not have at
tained to the age of thirty-five years, and been fourteen years a resident within
the United States.
6. Jn case of the removal of the president from office, or of his death, resigna
tion, or inability to discharge the powers and duties of the said office, the same
shall devolve on the vice-president, and the congress may, by law, provide for the
case of removal, death, resignation, or inability, both of the president and vice-
president, declaring what officer shall then, act as president, and such officer shall
act accordingly, until the disability be removed, or a president shall be elected.
7. The president shall, at stated times, receive for his services a compensation,
which shall neither be increased nor diminished during the period for which he
* Altered, see amend, art. 12.
OUTLINE HISTORY.
97
shall have been elected, and he shall not receive within that period any other
fiinolument from the United States, or any of them.
8. Before he enter on the execution of his office, he shall take the following oath
or affirmation:
9. "I do solemnly swear (or affirm) that I will faithfully execute the office of
president of the United States, and will, to the best of iny ability, preserve, pro
tect, and defend the constitution of the United States."
SECTION II.
1. The president shall be commander-in-chief of the army and navy of the
United States, and of the militia of the several states, when called into the actual
service of the United States; he may require the opinion, in writing, of the prin
cipal officer in each of the executive departments, upon any subject relating to
the duties of their respective offices ; and he shall have power to grant reprieves
and pardons for all offenses against the United States, except in cases of impeach
ment.
2. He shall have power, by and with the advice and consent of the senate, to
make treaties, provided two thirds of the senators present concur; and he shall
nominate, and by and with the advice and consent of the senate, shall appoint am
bassadors, other public ministers, and consuls, judges of the supreme court, and
all other officers of the United States, whose appointments are not herein other
wise provided for, and which shall be established by law. But the congress may,
by law, vest the appointment of such inferior officers as they think proper, in the
president alone, in the courts of law, or in the heads of departments.
3. The president shall have power to fill up all vacancies that may happen dur
ing the recess of the senate, by granting commissions which shall expire at the
end of their next session.
SECTION III.
1. He shall, from time to time, give to the congress information of the state of
the union, and recommend to their consideration such measures as he shall judge
necessary and expedient; he may, on extraordinary occasions, convene both
houses, or either of them, and, in case of disagreement between them, with re
spect to the time of adjournment, he may adjourn them to such time as he shall
think proper; he shall receive ambassadors and other public ministers; he shall
take care that the laws be faithfully executed; and shall commission all the
officers of the United States.
SECTION IV.
1. The president, vice-president, and all civil officers of the United States, shall
be removed from office on impeachment for, and conviction of, treason, bribery, or
other high crimes and misdemeanors.
ARTICLE HI.
SECTION I.
1. The judicial power of the United States shall be vested in one supreme
court, and in such inferior courts as the congress may, from time to time, ordain
and establish. The judges, both of the supreme and inferior courts, shall hold
their offices during good behavior ; and shall, at stated times, receive for their ser
vices a compensation which shall not be diminished during their continuance in
office.
98 OUTLINE HISTORY.
SECTION" II.
1. The judicial power shall extend to all cases in law and equity, arising under
this constitution, the laws of the United States, and treaties made, or which shall
be made, under their authority ; to all cases affecting ambassadors, other public
ministers and consuls; to all cases of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction; to
controversies to which the United States shall be a party ; to controversies be
tween two or more states; between a state and citizens of another state; be
tween citizens of another state; between citizens of different states; between
citizens of the same state claiming lands under grants of different states; and
between a state, or the citizens thereof, and foreign states, citizens or subjects.
2. In all cases affecting ambassadors, other public ministers and consuls, and
those in which a state shall be a party, the supreme court shall have original juris
diction. In all the other cases before mentioned, the supreme court shall have
appellate jurisdiction, both as to law and fact, with such exceptions, and under
such regulations, as the congress shall make.
3. The trial of all crimes, except in cases of impeachment, shall be by jury;
and such trial shall be held in the state where the said crimes shall have been
committed; but when not committed within any state, the trial shall be at such
place or places as the congress may, by law, have directed.
SECTION III.
1. Treason against the United States shall consist only in levying war against
them, or in adhering to their enemies, giving them aid and comfort. No person
shall be convicted of treason unless on the testimony of two witnesses to the same
overt act, or on confession in open court.
2. The congress shall have power to declare the punishment of treason, but no
attainder of treason shall work corruption of blood or forfeiture, except during
the life of the person attainted.
ARTICLE IV.
SECTION I.
1. Full faith and credit shall be given in each state to the public acts, records,
and judicial proceedings of every other state. And the congress may, by general
laws, prescribe the manner in which such acts, records, and proceedings shall be
proved, and the effect thereof.
SECTION II.
1. The citizens of each state shall be entitled to all privileges and immunities
of citizens in the several states.
2. A person charged in any state with treason, felony, or other crime, who shall
flee from justice, and be found in another state, shall, on demand of the executive
authority of the state from which he fled, be delivered up, to be removed to the
state having jurisdiction of the crime.
3. No person held to service or labor in one state under the laws thereof, es
caping into another, shall, in consequence of any law or regulation therein, be
discharged from such service or labor, but shall be delivered up on claim of the
party to whom such service or labor may be due.
SECTION III.
1. New states may be admitted by the congress into this union ; but no new
state shall be formed or erected within the jurisdiction of any other state; nor any
OUTLINE HISTORY.
99
state be formed by the junction of two or more states, or parts of states, without
the consent of the legislature of the states concerned, as well as of the congress.
2. The congress shall have power to dispose of, and make all needful rules and
regulations respecting the territory or other property belonging to the United
States; and nothing in this constitution shall be so construed as to prejudice
any claims of the United States, or of any particular state.
SECTION IV.
1. The United States shall guarantee to every state in this union a republican
form of government, and shall protect each of them against invasion, and on ap
plication of the legislature, or of the executive, when the legislature can not be
convened, against domestic violence.
ARTICLE V.
1. The congress, whenever two thirds of both houses shall deem it necessary,
shall propose amendments to this constitution, or, on the application of the legis
latures of two thirds of the several states, shall call a convention for proposing
amendments, which, in either case, shall be valid, to all intents and purposes, as
part of this constitution, when ratified by the legislatures of three fourths of the
several states, or by conventions in three fourths thereof, as the one or the other
mode of ratification may be proposed by the congress ; provided, that no amend
ment which may be made prior to the year one thousand eight hundred and eight,
shall in any manner affect the first and fourth clauses in the ninth section of the
first article; and that no state, without its consent, shall be deprived of its equal
suffrage in the senate.
ARTICLE VI.
i 1. All debts contracted and engagements entered into, before the adoption of
this constitution, shall be as valid against the United States under this constitu
tion as under the confederation.
2. This constitution, and the laws of the United States which shall be made in
pursuance thereof, and all treaties made, or which shall be made, under the au
thority of the United States, shall be the supreme law of the land; and the judges
in every state shall be bound thereby, anything in the constitution or laws of any
state to the contrary notwithstanding.
• 3. The senators and representatives before mentioned, and the members of the
several state legislatures, and all executive and judicial officers, both of the United
States and of the several states, shall be bound by oath or affirmation, to support
this constitution : but no religious test shall ever be required as a qualification to
any office or public trust under the United States.
ARTICLE VII.
1. The ratification of the conventions of nine states, shall be sufficient for the
establishment of this constitution between the states so ratifying the same.
Done in Convention, by the unanimous consent of the states present, the seventeenth
day of September, in the year of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and
eighty-seven, and of the Independence of the United States 'of America the
twelfth. In witnees whereof, we have hereunto subscribed our names.
GEORGE WASHINGTON, PRESIDENT,
and deputy from Virginia.
7
100 OUTLINE HISTORY.
New Hampshire. — John Langdon, Nicholas Oilman.
Massachusetts. — Nathaniel Gorham, Rufus King.
Connecticut. — William Samuel Johnson, Roger Sherman.
New York. — Alexander Hamilton.
New Jersey. — William Livingston, David Brearly, William Patterson, Jonathan
Dayton.
Pennsylvania. — Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Mifflin, Robert Morris, George
Clymer, Thomas Fitzsimons, Jared Tngersoll, James Wilson, Gouverneur Morris.
Delaware. — George Read, Gunning Bedford, jr., John Dickinson, Richard Bas-
sett, Jacob Broom.
Maryland. — .James McHenry, Daniel of St. Thomas Jenifer, Daniel Carroll.
Virginia. — .John Blair, James Madison, jr.
North Carolina. — William Blount, Richard Dobbs Spaight, Hugh Williamson
South Carolina. — John Rutledge, Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, Charles Pinck-
ney, Pierce Butler.
Georgia. — William Few7 Abraham Baldwin.
Attest: WILLIAM JACKSON, Secretary.
AMENDMENTS TO THE CONSTITUTION.
[The following Amendments were proposed at the first session of the first Congress of the
United States, which was begun and held at the city of New York, on the 4th of March,
1789, and were adopted by the requisite number of states. 1st Volume of the Laws of the
United States, page 72.]
ARTICLE I.
1. Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or pro
hibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the
press; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble, and to petition the gov
ernment for a redress of grievances.
ARTICLE II.
1. A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free state, tho
right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
ARTICLE III.
1. No soldier shall, in time of peace, be quartered in any house without the
consent of the owner, nor in time of war but in a manner to be prescribed by law.
ARTICLE IV.
1. The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses, papers, and
effects, against unreasonable searches and seizures, shall not be violated, and no
warrants shall issue but upon probable cause, supported by oath or affirmation,
and particularly describing the place to be searched, and the persons or things to
be seized.
ARTICLE V.
1. No person shall be held to answer for a capital or otherwise infamous crime,
unless on a presentment or indictment of a grand jury, except in cases arising in
the land or naval forces, or in the militia when in actual service, in time of war
or public danger; nor shall any person be subject, for the same offense, to bo
twice put in jeopardy of life or limb; nor shall be compelled in any criminal case
ta be a witness against himself; nor be deprived of life, liberty, or property, with-
OUTLINE HISTORY.
101
out due process of law; nor shall private property be taken for public use without
just compensation.
ARTICLE VI.
1. In all criminal prosecutions, the accused shall enjoy the right to a speedy
and public trial, by an impartial jury of the state and district wherein the crime
shall have been committed, which district shall have been previously ascertained
by law, and to be informed of the nature and cause of the accusation; to be con
fronted with the witnesses against him ; to have compulsory process for obtaining
witnesses in his favor; and to have the assistance of counsel for his defense.
ARTICLE VII.
1. In suits at common law, where the value in controversy shall exceed twenty
dollars, the right of trial by jury shall be preserved; and no fact tried by a jury
shall be otherwise re-examined in any court of the United States, than according
to the rules at the common law.
ARTICLE VIII.
1. Excessive bail shall not be required, nor excessive fines imposed, nor cruel
and unusual punishments inflicted.
ARTICLE IX.
1. The enumeration in the constitution of certain rights, shall not be construed
to deny or disparage others retained by the people.
ARTICLE x.
1. The powers not delegated to the United States by the constitution, nor pro
hibited by it to the states, are reserved to the states respectively, or to the people.
[The following amendment was proposed at the second session of the third congress. It
is printed in the Laws of the United States, 1 vol., p. 73, as article 11.]
ARTICLE XI.
1. The judicial power of the United States shall not be construed to extend tc
any suit in law or equity, commenced or prosecuted against one of the United
States by citizens of another state, or by citizens or subjects of any foreign state.
[The three following sections were proposed as amendments at the first session of the
eighth congress. They are printed in the Laws of the United States, as article 12.]
ARTICLE XII.
1. The electors shall meet in their respective states, and vote by ballot for
president and vice-president, one of whom, at least, shall not be an inhabitant of
the same state with themselves ; they shall name in their ballots the person voted
for as president, and in distinct ballots the person voted for as vice-president; and
they shall make distinct lists of all persons voted for as president, and of all per
sons voted for as vice-president, and of the number of votes for each, which lists
they shall sign and certify, and transmit sealed to the seat of government of the
United States, directed to the president of the senate; the president of the senate
shall, in the presence of the senate and house of representatives, open all the cer
tificates, and the votes shall then be counted; the person having the greatest num
ber of votes for president, shall be the president, if such number be a majority of
the whole number of electors appointed; and if no person have such majority,
then from the persona having the highest numbers, not exceeding three, on the list
102 OUTLINE HISTORY.
of those voted for as president, the house of representatives shall choose inv
mediately, by ballot, the president. But in choosing the president, the votes
shall be taken by states, the representation from each state having one vote; a
quorum for this purpose shall consist of a member or members from two thirds of
the states, and a majority of all the states shall be necessary to a choice. And if
the house of representatives shall not choose a president, whenever the right of
choice shall devolve upon them, before the fourth day of March next following,
then the vice-president shall act as president, as in the case of the death or other
constitutional disability of the president.
2. The person having the greatest number of votes as vice-president, shall be
the vice-president, if such number be a majority of the whole number of electors
appointed; and if no person have a majority, then from the two highest numbers
on the list, the senate shall choose the vice-president; a quorum for the purpose
shall consist of two thirds of the whole number of senators, and a majority of the
whole number shull be necessary to a choice.
3. Bo't 'bo ' fx-rsbn constitutionally ineligible to the office of president, shall be
eligible to that of vice-president of the United States.
[.rn the edition of ths laws of the United States, printed in 1822, there is an amendment
printed as article 13, prohibiting citizens from accepting titles of nobility or honor, or pres
ents, offices, etc., from foreign nations. But, by a message of the president of the United
States, of the 4th of February, 1818, in answer to a resolution of the house of representa
tives, it appears that this amendment had been ratified only by twelve states, and, there
fore, had not been adopted. See vol. 4 of the printed papers of the first session of the 15th
congress, No. 76.]
WASHINGTON'S ADMINISTRATION.
On the 30th of April, 1789, GEORGE WASHINGTON was inaugurated
the first president of the United States. The ceremony was performed
in the open gallery of the Federal Hall in New York, and the oath
was administered by Chancellor Livingston, in the presence of a vast
number of spectators. From that moment, the AMERICAN REPUBLIC
has steadily advanced in a tide of prosperity and growing power.
Washington's term of office continued for eight years, he being
twice elected president. " His administration, partaking of his char
acter, was mild and firm at home; noble and prudent abroad." In
the second session of the first congress, the president and senators
began to devise means by which they could pay off the national debt,
which amounted to fifty-four millions of dollars. Of this sum, about
twelve millions were due to France and Holland, and more than twenty
millions had been contracted by various states in support of the war.
The whole amount of the debts of the United States amounted to sev
enty-five millions. After much discussion and opposition, it was
decided that upon part of this debt three per cent, interest should be
paid, and six per cent, upon the remainder.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 103
In 1790, the Indians on the western frontiers having become hos
tile, General Harmar, with fifteen hundred men, was sent against them,
He was defeated near Fort Wayne, with considerable loss. The next
year, General St. Clair marched into their country with a force of two
thousand men. While in camp, near the dividing line between Ohio
and Indiana, he was surprised and defeated, with the loss of six hun
dred of his army. In 1793, General Wayne organized for a cam
paign against the savages. He spent the winter at Greenville, near
the place of St. Glair's defeat. In August, 1794, he went down the
Maumee with three thousand men, and on the 20th met and defeated
the Indians. After a campaign of about ninety days, having laid
waste their country, he went into winter quarters. In August, of the
following year, the commissioners of the United States and the chiefs
and warriors of the western tribes made a treaty of peace, which re
mained unbroken until about the time of the war of 1812.
In 1794, a popular outbreak, known as the Whisky Insurrection,
occurred in western Pennsylvania, and caused the government much
trouble. An excise law, passed in 1791, which imposed duties on
domestic distilled liquors, was very unpopular, and the effort to en
force it was resisted. At one time, between six and seven thousand
insurgents were under arms. The president, having in vain used
peaceable measures to disperse them, ordered out a large body of the
militia of Virginia. Maryland, Pennsylvania and New Jersey, under
the command of General Lee, then governor of Virginia. This body
proceeded to the scene of disturbances, the insurgents submitted, and
all opposition was happily quelled.
About this period, affairs with Great Britain began to assume a
threatening aspect. The British government claimed that no grain
should be exported to France, with whom she was at war, and seized
all vessels engaged in carrying her or her colonies any supplies.
They also claimed the right of searching American vessels and com
pelling all British seamen found on board to serve in their national
ships. As the British and American seamen were in numerous in
stances difficult to be distinguished from each other, many American
seamen were impressed on board of British ships. For the purpose
of preserving peace and amity, John Jay was sent as an envoy ex
traordinary to the British court. Mr. Jay, to secure certain points
of great importance, was compelled to yield others. This treaty,
known by the name of " Jay's Treaty" occasioned violent debates in
104 OUTLINE HISTORY.
congress and throughout the country ; but it was finally ratified in
June, 1795.
The French government was displeased with Jay's treaty with its
ancient enemy, and even adopted hostile measures toward the United
States, whose policy under Washington was to observe a strict neu
trality among the contending nations of Europe. Under the French
republic, the ships of France committed depredations upon American
commerce. In 1797, on the prospect of war with that power, con
gress caused the frigates, United States, Constellation, and Constitu
tion, to be equipped and sent to sea. From this time the navy be
came a cherished arm of the national defense.
ADAMS' ADMINISTRATION.
John Adams, the second president, commenced his administration
in March, 1797, and served in this office four years. The difficulties
with France still continued. The French directory refused to receive
Mr. Pinckney, the American minister, until their demands against the
United States should be complied with. He was met by certain un
official agents of the French minister, who explicitly demanded a
large sum of money before any negotiations could be opened toward
securing a reconciliation. The demand was indignantly refused,
Pinckney uttering that noble sentiment, " millions for defense, but not
one cent for tribute"
These proceedings excited general indignation in the United States.
As preparatory to an expected war, congress made provision for
raising a small standing army under the command of General Wash
ington. A naval armament was decided upon, and captures of French
vessels authorized. The first hostile act was committed by the In-
surgente, a French frigate, which took the American schooner Retali
ation, and carried her into Gaudaloupe. Soon after, the Constellation,
Captain Truxton, encountered and captured the Insurgente. The
rate of the Constellation was thirty-two guns ; that of the Insurgente,
forty. The former had three men wounded, one of whom shortly
died. The latter had forty-one wounded, and twenty-nine killed.
The bold and decided tone of the Americans, with their successes in
various naval engagements, probably hastened negotiations for peace,
which was concluded in September, 1800, with the French govern
ment, then in the hands of Napoleon Bonaparte, the first consul.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 1Q5
On the 14th of December, 1799, Washington, " the father of his
country," died at his residence at Mount Vernon, Virginia, at the age
of sixty-eight years. In every part of the United States, appropriate
demonstrations were made for the nation's loss ; funeral orations were
delivered, and the best talents were called forth to express the na
tion's grief. During the summer of 1800, the seat of government
was removed from Philadelphia to Washington, in the District of
Columbia.
As the term of Mr. Adams' administration drew toward its close,
each of the great parties — the FEDERALISTS and REPUBLICANS — made
strong efforts to obtain political power. Mr. Adams, who was nomin
ated by the federal party, became somewhat unpopular from the pass
age of the Alien and Sedition laws. The " alien law " authorized the
president to order any foreigner, whom he should judge dangerous to
the peace and safety of the United States, to depart out of the country
upon penalty of imprisonment. The " sedition law," designed to pun
ish the abuse of speech and of the press, imposed a heavy fine and
imprisonment for " any false, scandalous and malicious writing against
the government of the United States, or either house of congress or
the president." The laws were deemed by the republicans, or demo
crats, highly tyrannical, and their unpopularity tended greatly to the
overthrow of the federal party.
In the coming election, Thomas Jefferson and Aaron Burr were
brought forward as the candidates of the republican party, and Mr.
Adams and Mr. Pinckney by the federalists. In consequence of dis-
sentions among the federal leaders, and the progress of democratic
sentiments among the people, the republican party was successful.
Jefferson and Burr had an equal number of votes ; and as the consti
tution then provided that the person having the greatest number
should be president, it became the duty of the house of representa
tives, voting by states, to decide between the two. After thirty-five
ballotings, the choice fell upon Mr. Jefferson.
JEFFERSON'S ADMINISTRATION.
Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States, began
his administration in 1801, and continued in office for eight years.
In 1800, Louisiana was secretly ceded to France. A negotiation was
opened with that power, which resulted in the purchase of Louisiana
106 OUTLINE HISTORY.
for fifteen millions of dollars, and in 1803 the United States took pos
session of the territory.
War now existed between the United States and Tripoli, one of the
piratical Barbary powers. In 1803, Commodore Preble was sent into
the Mediterranean, and humbling the emperor of Morocco, he pro
ceeded to Tripoli. The frigate Philadelphia, commanded by Captain
Bainbridge, struck on a rock while reconnoitering. Before she could
be extricated, she was captured by the Tripolitans. The officers were
treated as prisoners of war, but the crew were made slaves.
In February of the following year, Lieutenant Decatur, with only
seventy-six volunteers, sailed in a small schooner into the harbor of
Tripoli, designing to destroy the Philadelphia, which was then moored
near the castle, with a strong Tripolitan crew. The pilot, who under
stood the Tripolitan language, succeeded in bringing the schooner in
contact with the Philadelphia. Decatur and his men leaped on board,
and in a few minutes killed twenty of the Tripolitans, and drove the
rest into the sea. Having set the Philadelphia on fire, Decatur suc
ceeded in getting out of the harbor under a heavy fire from the sur
rounding vessels and batteries, without the loss of a single man.
At the time of Preble's expedition to the Mediterranean, the reign
ing bashaw or governor was an usurper, and his brother Hamet, the
legitimate sovereign, was in exile. In 1805, Captain William Eaton, the
American consul at Tunis, having obtained permission of the United
States government, concerted with Hamet an expedition against his
brother, the reigning bashaw. With about seventy American sea
men, joined to the followers of Hamet and some Egyptian troops,
Eaton sat out from Alexandria toward Tripoli, a distance of a thous
and miles across the Lybian desert. After much suffering, he reached
Derne, a Tripolitan city on the Mediterranean, which he took by as
sault. After two successful engagements with Tripolitan troops, the
bashaw offered favorable terms of peace, which were accepted by
Colonel Tobias Lear, the American consul general in the Mediterra
nean.
In 1806, Colonel Aaron Burr was detected in a conspiracy, the ap
parent object of which seems to have been to form west of the Alle-
ghany mountains, an independent empire, of which he was to be ruler,
and New Orleans the capital; or should not this project succeed, it
appears to have been his design to march upon Mexico, and establish
an empire there. He was arrested near Ft. Stoddart, on the Tombig-
bee, in the present state of Alabama, and taken to Richmond, Va.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 107
Here, in August, 1807, he was brought to trial on a charge of treason.
It was proved that some twenty or thirty persons had assembled on
Blannerhassett's Island, in the Ohio; but it not appearing that these
conspirators had used any force against the United States, or that
Burr was present at the meeting, he was acquitted.
The wars produced by the French revolution still continued. Na
poleon, the Emperor of France, extended his conquests over the
greater part of Europe ; while Great Britain was triumphant in every
sea. In May, 1806, Great Britain, for the purpose of injuring France,
her enemy, declared the continent, from Brest to the Elbe, in a state
of blockade, although not invested by a British fleet. Many Ameri
can vessels trading to that coast were seized and condemned. The
French emperor soon retaliated by declaring the British Islands in a
state of blockade ; and the American vessels trading thither were
taken by French cruisers. These measures were highly injurious to
American commerce, and contrary to the rights of neutral nations.
"On June 22, 1807, the frigate Chesapeake, being ordered on a cruise in the
Mediterranean Sea, under the command of Commodore Barren, sailing from Hamp
ton Roads, was come up with by the British ship-of-war, Leopard, one of a squad
ron then at anchor within the limits of the United States. An officer was sent
from the Leopard to the Chesapeake, with a note from the captain respecting some
deserters from some of his Britannic majesty's ships, supposed to be serving as
part of the crew of the Chesapeake, and inclosing a copy of an order from vice
admiral Berkley, requiring and directing the commanders of ships and vessels
under his command, in case of meeting with the American frigate at sea, and
without the limits of the United States, to show the order to her captain, and to
require to search his ship for the deserters from certain ships therein named, and
to proceed and search for them; and, if a similar demand should be made by the
American, he was permitted to search for deserters from their service, according
to the customs and usage of civilized nations on terms of amity with each other.
Commodore Barron gave an answer, purporting, that he knew of no such men as
were described ; that the recruiting officers for the Chesapeake had been particu
larly instructed by the government, through him, not to enter any deserters from
his Britannic majesty's ships; that he knew of none such being in her; that ho
was instructed never to permit the crew of any ship under his command to be
mustered by any officers but her own ; that he was disposed to preserve harmony,
and hoped his answer would prove satisfactory. The Leopard, shortly after this
answer was received by her commander, ranged along side of the Chesapeake, and
commenced a heavy fire upon her. The Chesapeake, unprepared for action, made
no resistance, but remained under the fire of the Leopard from twenty to thirty
minutes ; when, having suffered much damage, and lost three men killed and
eighteen wounded, Commodore Barron ordered his colors to be struck, and sent a
lieutenant on board the Leopard, to inform her commander that he considered the
Chesapeake her prize. The commander of the Leopard sent an officer on board,
who took possession of the Chesapeake, mustered her crew, and, carrying off" four
108 OUTLINE HISTORY.
of her men, abandoned the ship. Commodore Barren, after a communication, by
writing, with the commander of the Leopard, finding that the Chesapeake was
very much injured, returned, with the advice of his officers, to Hampton Roads."
The outrage upon the Chesapeake was followed by a proclamation
of the president, forbidding British ships-of-war to enter the harbors
of the United States until satisfaction should be made by the British
government. In November, the celebrated "orders in council" were
issued by the British government, prohibiting all trade with France
and her allies ; and in December following, Bonaparte issued the re
taliatory " Milan decree" forbidding all trade with Great Britain and
her colonies. In December, 1807, congress decreed an embargo, which
provided for the detention of all vessels, American and foreign, at our
own ports, and ordered all American vessels and sailors to return
home. This occasioned great commercial distress ; it was repealed on
the 1st of March, 1809, three days before Mr. Jefferson retired from
office.
MADISON'S ADMINISTRATION.
On March 4, 1809, James Madison became president of the United
States, and continued in this office for eight years. At the time he
entered upon its duties, the state of the country in some respects was
gloomy and critical. France and Great Britain were at war, and
they issued against each other the most severe commercial edicts in
violation of the law of nations, and injurious to those who wished to
remain neutral. Great Britain continued her hostile decrees, and for
the purpose of enforcing them, stationed before the principal ports of
the United States her ships-of-war, which intercepted American mer
chantmen, and sent them to British ports as prizes.
On May 16, 1811, Commodore Rogers, of the American frigate,
President, met in the evening a vessel on the coast of Virginia. He
hailed, but instead of a satisfactory answer, received a shot from the
unknown vessel. An engagement ensued, and the guns of the stran
ger were soon nearly silenced. Rogers hailed again, and was an
swered that the ship was the British sloop-of-war Little Belt, Captain
Bingham. The Little Belt had eleven men killed and twenty-one
wounded ; the President had only one man wounded.
In April, 1812, congress laid an embargo for ninety days, on all
vessels within the jurisdiction of the United States. On the 4th of
June following, a bill declaring war against Great Britain passed the
OUTLINE HISTORY. 109
house of representatives, and on the 17th, the senate ; and on the
19th, the president issued a proclamation of war.
At the time of the declaration of war, General Hull, then governor
of Michigan territory, was on his march from Ohio to Detroit, with
two thousand men, in order to put an end to the Indian hostilities on
the western frontiers. He also was authorized to invade Canada. In
July, he crossed over to the British side of the river, apparently for
the purpose of attacking Maiden. This place being reinforced, and
a large body of British and Indians collecting, Hull retreated to De
troit, and being besieged, he surrendered his army and the territory
of Michigan to General Brock. A second attempt to invade Canada
was made by General Van Rensselaer, who crossed the Niagara, with
about one thousand men, and attacked the British at Queenston.
After an obstinate engagement, he was forced to surrender.
While defeat and disgrace attended the attempts of the Americans
to subdue Canada, brilliant success favored the American flag on the
ocean. In August, Captain Hull, who commanded the frigate Con
stitution, captured the Guerriere. In October, Captain Decatur, com
manding the frigate United States, captured the Macedonian. In
November, Captain Jones, commanding the Wasp, took the British
sloop-of-war Frolic. In December, the Constitution, commanded by
Captain Bainbridge, captured the Java. In these four engagements
the loss of the British in killed and wounded was four hundred and
twenty-three ; that of the Americans only seventy-three.
In January, 1813, about eight hundred men, under General Win
chester, were surprised and defeated at Frenchtown, on the River
Raisin, by the British and Indians under General Proctor. Many of
the Americans, after they had surrendered, were inhumanly murdered
by the Indians. In May, a detachment of seventeen hundred Amer
icans, under General Pike, took possession of York, in Canada. Gen
eral Pike, with one hundred of his men, was killed by the explosion
of a mine. In May, one thousand British troops, under Sir George
Prevost, made an attack on Sackett's Harbor, but were repulsed by
General Brown. The most brilliant affair in this year, on the side of
the Americans, was the capture of the British fleet on Lake Erie, by
Commodore Perry. The British fleet consisted of six vessels, carry
ing sixty-three guns; the Americans had nine vessels, and fifty-six
guns. The conflict lasted for three hours ; but the victory was com
plete. Perry announced his victory in the following laconic epistle :
" We have met the enemy, and they are ours."
HO OUTLINE HISTORY.
After this victory, General Harrison embarked his army on board
of the American fleet, landed in Canada, and defeated the British
army under General Proctor, near the River Thames. In this
battle, Tecumseh, the celebrated Indian chief, in alliance with the
British, was killed. This chieftain was one of the greatest of In
dian warriors, and was distinguished for his eloquence, dignity of
manners, and nobleness of soul. During this year the British ob
tained some success on the ocean, the most important of which was
the capture, by Captain Broke, in the Shannon, of the frigate Chesa
peake, commanded by Captain Lawrence. This intrepid officer, be
ing mortally wounded, was carried below, and became delirious, from
excess of mental and bodily suffering. Whenever he was able to
speak, he would exclaim, " Don't give up the &hip" — an expression
long to be remembered by his countrymen.
The year 1814 was distinguished by severe fighting in Canada. In
July, the Americans, under General Brown, crossed the Niagara with
three thousand men, and took possession of Fort Erie. A bloody ac
tion took place a few days after, at Chippewa, in which the Americans
were victorious. In the same month, the American forces, under
Generals Brown and Scott, and the British under Generals Drummond
and Rial, fought a severe battle at Lundy's Lane. This battle began
before sunset and continued till midnight. The action was fought
near the cataract of Niagara, whose roar was silenced at times by the
thunder of cannon and the rattling of arms. The British were forced
to leave the field, with the loss of about nine hundred in killed and
wounded. The Americans were so much weakened that they fell back
to Fort Erie, which the British afterward attempted to storm, but
were repulsed with great loss.
In September, Sir George Prevost, with fourteen thousand men,
advanced on Plattsburg. The operations of this army were accom
panied by a British fleet, on Lake Champlain, carrying ninety-five
guns, and one thousand and fifty men, under Commodore Downie.
This fleet was defeated by Commodore Macdonough, whose fleet car
ried eighty-six guns, and eight hundred and twenty-six men. Upon
the loss of the British fleet, Sir George Prevost, after having been
repulsed by General Macomb, retreated.
In August, a British fleet arrived in the Chesapeake, and landed an
army of five thousand men, about forty miles from Washington.
Having defeated the militia at Bladensburg, they entered Washington,
burnt the public buildings, and then retreated to their shipping.
OUTLINE HISTORY.
About a fortnight afterward, nearly seven thousand men, under Gen
eral Ross and Admiral Cockburn, made an attack on Baltimore, but
were defeated, and General Ross was killed.
While negotiations for peace were in progress between the United
States and Great Britain, a large force, under Sir Edward Packen-
ham, landed for the attack of New Orleans. The defense of this
place was entrusted to General Jackson, whose force was about six
thousand men, chiefly raw militia. On the morning of the 8th of
January, 1815, the main body of the enemy, seven or eight thous
and in number, marched to the assault of the American lines.
The Americans, in security behind their breastworks of cotton
bales and other materials, which no balls could penetrate, were
formed in two ranks, those in the rear loading for those in front. By
this they were enabled to fire without intermission. As the British
approached sufficiently near for shot to take effect, the rolling fire
from the American lines resembled peals of thunder, and the plain
before them was strewn with the dead and dying. After three brave
attempts to force the American lines, in which General Packenham
and General Gibbs, the second in command, were mortally wounded,
the British troops retreated from the field of action. Their loss in
killed, wounded and captured, was two thousand six hundred, while
that of the Americans amounted to only six killed and seven wounded.
Soon after this event, news arrived that a treaty of peace had been
signed at Ghent, by the commissioners of the United States and Great
Britain, on the 25th of December, 1814. This treaty was immedi
ately ratified by the president and senate.
While the war continued, the price of commodities was high ; but
at its close they fell greatly in price, causing much loss to speculators
and traders. Numerous manufacturing establishments had sprung
up ; but on the restoration of peace, the country was inundated with
foreign goods, mostly of British manufacture, and the ruin of most
of the rival establishments in the United States was the consequence.
In this state of affairs, thousands emigrated to the fertile lands of the
west, and new states were added to the Union in rapid succession.
MONROE'S ADMINISTRATION.
James Monroe became president in 1817, and continued in office for
eight years. His administration commenced under many favorable
112 OUTLINE HISTORY.
circumstances; the country was fast recovering from the depression
of commerce and a three years' war. The political feuds which had,
since the revolution, occasioned so much animosity, were now gradu
ally subsiding, and there appeared in the administration a disposition
to remove old party prejudices, and to promote union among the peo
ple. A spirit of improvement was spreading throughout the country ;
roads and canals were constructed in various parts of the Union.
In 1817, the Seminole Indians inhabiting the northern part of
Florida committed depredations on the frontiers of Georgia and Ala
bama. For several years, disaffected Indians from neighboring tribes,
runaway slaves, and other desperate characters, made Florida a place
of refuge. In 1818, General Jackson, with about one thousand vol
unteers from Tennessee, marched into the Indian country and defeated
them in several skirmishes. Believing the Spaniards were active in
exciting the Indians to hostilities, and in furnishing them with sup
plies, he was satisfied that to end the war it would be necessary to en
ter Florida and compel the Spaniards to desist from their machina
tions. He accordingly marched thither, and took possession of St.
Marks and Pensacola, reduced the fortress of Barancas, and sent the
Spanish troops and authorities to Havana. Two British subjects AM-
BRISTER and ARBUTHNOT were taken prisoners, tried and executed " for
exciting and aiding the Indians to make war against the United
States." Having routed the Indians in several battles, he put an ef
fectual check to their hostilities.
At the beginning of Mr. Monroe's administration, a Pension Act
was passed, which made provision for the support of all the officers
and soldiers of the revolution, whose circumstances were such as to
need assistance. In 1821, Florida, which had hitherto been under the
dominion of Spain, was granted by treaty to the United States, in
compensation for spoliations upon their commerce by Spanish vessels
during the European wars. In 1820 Missouri applied for admission
into the Union. On its admission congress and the whole country be
came highly excited on the question whether slavery should be allowed
to exist in that state. It was finally settled by what has been called
" the Missouri Compromise" which tolerated slavery in Missouri, but
otherwise prohibited it in all the territory " ceded by France to the
United States, under the name of Louisiana;" west and north of the
northern limits of Arkansas.
The summer of 1824 was distinguished by the visit of General La
fayette, who arrived in New York, August 16, 1824. The "nation's
OUTLINE HISTORY.
guest" was received with great enthusiasm by all classes. From New
York he proceeded by land to Boston, passing through New Haven
and Providence. From Boston he went to Portsmouth, N. H. ; thence
to New York, through Worcester, Hartford and Middletown. From
New York he proceeded to Albany and other places. Returning to
New Y'ork, he visited Philadelphia, Baltimore and also Washington
City, where he was received by congress, who voted him two hundred
thousand dollars and a township of land, for important services ren
dered by him during the revolutionary war.
From Washington, Lafayette made a tour through the southern
and western states, and returned to Albany, by way of Buffalo and
the grand canal. From Albany he passed through Springfield to Bos
ton, where he was received by the legislature of Massachusetts, then
in session. On the 17th of June, he assisted in laying the founda
tion of Bunker Hill monument. He then visited the states of New
Hampshire, Maine and Vermont, and returned to New York to parti
cipate in the celebration of the forty-ninth anniversary of American
independence. He finally left New York, July 14, 1825, visited the
ex-presidents in Virginia, and soon after embarked on board the frig
ate Brandywine for France.
J. Q. ADAMS' ADMINISTRATION.
John Quincy Adams was inaugurated president, March 4, 1825, and
continued in office four years. During the period of his administra
tion peace was preserved with foreign nations, and the country rap
idly advanced in wealth and population. A controversy between the
national government and the state of Georgia, respecting certain
lands belonging to the Creeks and Cherokees, occasioned considerable
anxiety. After several attempts on the part of Georgia to obtain the
possession of the Creek territory, in accordance with treaties made
with portions of the tribe, the national government purchased the res
idue of the lands for the benefit of that state, which settled the con
troversy.
The 4th of July, 1826, the fiftieth anniversary of American inde
pendence, was rendered remarkable by the deaths of the two venera
ble ex-presidents, Jefferson and Adams, whose wise councils for a long
period had in no small degree contributed to the independence and
prosperity of the country ; on the same day, and almost at the same
hour, both expired. They were both members of the committee who
114 OUTLINE HISTORY.
had framed the Declaration of Independence, both signed it, both had
been vice-presidents, and afterward presidents of the United States,
and both had lived to a great age.
At this period, the anti-masonic party arose, and for a time con
trolled various of the state governments. It originated from the ex
citement consequent upon the forcible abduction and supposed mur
der of William Morgan, a citizen of Batavia, in the year 1826, by
members of the masonic fraternity, to prevent his publishing a book
which, as was said, disclosed the secrets of masonry. Opposition to
the principle of secret societies, as a dangerous element to the perpetu
ation of free institutions, was the sentiment on which the party was
based.
The presidential election of 1828 was attended with great excite
ment and zeal in the respective parties, the opposing candidates being
Mr. Adams and General Jackson. " In the contest, which from the
first was chiefly of a personal nature, not only the public acts, but
even the private lives of both aspirants were closely scanned, and
every error, real or supposed, placed in a conspicuous view. The re
sult was the election of General Jackson by a majority far greater
than his friends had anticipated."
JACKSON'S ADMINISTRATION.
General Andrew Jackson, on the 4th of March, 1829, took the oath
of office as president of the United States, and continued in this sta
tion for eight years. The leading measures of his administration
were carried out with an uncommon degree of energy and determina
tion. In 1832, a bill to recharter the United States Bank was passed
by both houses of congress. This bill was vetoed by the president,
and returned to congress with his objections. Not being repassed by
the constitutional majority of two thirds, the bank ceased to be a
national institution on the expiration of its charter in 1836.
Among the subjects of general interest which commanded the at
tention of the president, were the claims of Georgia to the lands of
the Cherokees, lying within the limits of that state. President Jack
son favored the views of the Georgia authorities, and the whites pro
ceeded to take possession of the Indian lands. This caused much dis
turbance, and many feared a civil war. The matter was adjudicated
by the Supreme Court of the United States. This tribunal decided
OUTLINE HISTORY.
against the claims of Georgia. Being favored by the president, that
state resisted the decision. The difficulty was finally adjusted; and
in 1838, General Winfield Scott was sent thither with several thous
and troops. Through his conciliatory measures the Cherokees were
induced to emigrate westward of the Mississippi.
In 1832, the Sacs, Foxes, and Winnebagoes, Indians in Wisconsin
Territory, commenced hostilities, led on by Black Hawk, their chief
tain. After numerous skirmishes, most of the Indians were driven
westward of the Mississippi. Black Hawk surrendered, and peace
was concluded : the Indians relinquished a large portion of their lands.
Black Hawk and several other chiefs were conducted to Washington,
and through the country, to show them the extent and power of the
United States, and also to convince them of the folly of making war
against the whites.
In 1832, congress passed a new tariff, imposing additional duties on
foreign goods. This act was considered so grievous in South Caro
lina, that a convention was assembled who published an "ordinance,"
nullifying, or forbidding the operation of the tariff laws within the
limits of that state. This act called forth a proclamation from Presi
dent Jackson, stating that " such opposition must be repelled."
Hostile preparations were then made on both sides. The gathering
storm was allayed by the passage of the " Compromise Act" intro
duced by Henry Clay, a warm friend of the tariff, which provided for
a gradual reduction of the obnoxious duties, during the succeeding
ten years.
The attempt to remove the Indians to lands west of the Mississippi,
in accordance with the treaty of Payne's Landing, was resisted. A
large portion of the Indians denied the validity or justice of the treaty.
Near the close of 1832, the Seminole Indians of Florida, under
Micanopy and Oceola, their most noted chieftains, commenced hos
tilities against the whites. In December, Major Dade, with upward
of one hundred men, was sent to the assistance of General Clinch, who
was stationed at Fort Crane. On his march, Dade fell into an am
buscade, and was killed with all his men, excepting four, who after
ward died of their wounds. The war continued, and several Creek
bands joined the Seminoles. Murders and devastations were frequent,
towns were burnt, and thousands of whites fled to save their lives. In
October, 1836, Governor Coll took command of the forces in Florida,
and with about two thousand men marched into the interior, where he
had several actions with the Indians.
8
116 OUTLINE HISTORY.
In 1835, serious apprehensions were entertained of a war with
France. The United States government for many years had urged
in vain upon that country the claims of American citizens for spolia
tions upon their commerce during the wars of Napoleon. These
claims, amounting to twenty-five millions of francs, had been ac
knowledged by the French government, but for various reasons pay
ment was delayed. Certain measures were now proposed, which it
was feared would involve the two nations in war. Happily all differ
ences were amicably settled. In 1835, the national debt was extin
guished ; and in 1836, several millions of surplus revenue remained in
the treasury.
YAN BUREN'S ADMINISTRATION.
Martin Van Buren, the eighth president of the United States, was
inaugurated March 4, 1837, and continued president for four years.
During the administration of General Jackson, his predecessor, the
public moneys were removed from the United States' Bank, and de
posited in the state banks. These institutions thus had their facilities
for lending money increased, speculations were encouraged, and the
usual track of honest industry in acquiring wealth was in some
measure abandoned. This unnatural state of things could not con
tinue ; it had its crisis in 1837. Such was the revulsion in business,
that the banks suspended specie payments. During the months of
March and April, the failures in the city of New York amounted to
nearly one hundred millions of dollars.
In the years 1837 and 1838, the difficulties occurred on the Canada
border, known as the Canadian Rebellion. Considerable bodies of
Americans and Canadians assembled at different points on the fron
tier, in the states of Michigan, Ohio, and New York, to aid the dis
affected Canadians to achieve their independence. On the night of
the 29th of December, 1837, the steamboat Caroline was burnt by the
British at Schlosser's Landing, two miles above the Falls of Niagara,
on the American side. She was at the time in use as a ferry-boat
between Schlosser's and Navy Island, a rendezvous of the rebels, in
the Niagara River. Sandusky City, in Ohio, was another rendezvous
of the "patriots" under a Captain Bradley: in the winter of 1838,
they had an action on the ice of Lake Erie, near Point au Pelee
Island, with a body of British cavalry, whom they repulsed. In No
vember, 1838, a body of patriots to the number of several hundred,
OUTLINE HISTORY
invaded Canada at Prescott, opposite Ogdensburg, where they took
possession of a stone windmill. They were attacked by a large force
of British regulars, whom they at first repulsed ; but were eventually
obliged to surrender to superior numbers. Their leaders were hung,
and others transported to Van Dieman's Land.
The Seminole war still continued in Florida at a heavy expense to
the nation ; while many of the soldiers perished from exposure in a
sickly climate, amid swamps and marshes to which they had driven
the hostile Indians. After several encounters, a number of chiefs,
in March, 1837, came to the camp of General Jessup, signed a treaty
of peace, and agreed that all the Seminoles should remove beyond the
Mississippi. This treaty, however, was soon broken through the in
fluence of Oceola. This chieftain coming subsequently into the camp
of General Jessup, under the protection of a flag of truce, was seized,
and finally imprisoned at Fort Moultrie, in Charleston, South Caro
lina, where he died of a fever the following year.
In December, 1837, Colonel (afterward President) Taylor, at the
head of six hundred men, defeated the Indians in the southern part
of the peninsula. At this time, the army stationed at various posts
in Florida, was estimated to number nearly nine thousand men. The
Indians still continued the contest during the years 1837, 1838, 1839
and 1840. General Macomb was in command in 1839. In 1840,
Colonel Harney penetrated into the extensive everglades of southern
Florida, and succeeded in capturing a band of forty, nine of whom
(their leaders) he caused to be executed.
During the session of congress, which terminated in the summer of
1840, the sub-treasury bill, designed for the safekeeping of the public
funds, which had been rejected at the extra session of 1837, passed
both houses of congress, and became a law. This was regarded as the
great financial measure of Mr. Van Buren's administration.
HARRISON'S ADMINISTRATION.
On the 4th of March, 1841, William Henry Harrison was inaugu
rated president, in the presence of an unusually large assemblage,
convened at the capitol in Washington. The preceding political con
test by which General Harrison was elevated to the presidency, was
one of the most exciting which ever took place in the United States.
The trying scenes of financial difficulties through which the country
118 OUTLINE HISTORY.
was then passing, and the " experiments on the currency" furnished
the opponents of the government a theme by which their measures
were denounced. General Harrison received two hundred and thirty-
four votes, while Mr. Van Buren received only sixty. John Tyler
was elected vice-president.
President Harrison died on the 4th of April, 1841, just one month
after he had taken the oath of office. The only official act of general
importance performed during his administration, was the issuing of a
proclamation on the 17th of March, calling an extra session of con
gress at the close of the following May, to legislate on the subjects of
finance and revenue.
TYLER'S ADMINISTRATION.
On the death of General Harrison, John Tyler, the vice-president,
became acting president of the United States. At the extra session
called by President Harrison, the sub-treasury bill was repealed, and
a general bankrupt law passed. The second year of Mr. Tyler's ad
ministration, 1842, was distinguished by the return of the United
States Exploring Expedition, the settlement of the north-eastern
boundary question, and the domestic difficulties in Rhode Island. In
this year, also, an important treaty, adjusting the dispute in relation
to the north-eastern boundary of the United States, was negotiated at
Washington, between Mr. Webster, on the part of the United States,
and Lord Ashburton on the part of Great Britain.
The exploring expedition, commanded by Lieutenant Wilkes, of the
United States Navy, had been absent several years, during which they
had coasted along what was supposed to be the Antarctic Continent:
in all, they had voyaged about ninety thousand miles, equal to almost
four times the circumference of the globe. A large number of curi
osities of island human life, and many fine specimens of natural history
were collected, and deposited in public buildings in Washington.
A movement was made in Rhode Island, called the "Dorr Insurrec
tion," the object of which was to set aside the ancient charter of the
colony and state, and under which the people had been ruled for one
hundred and eighty years. The "suffrage party" adopted a consti
tution unauthorized by the laws of the state, and chose T. W. Dorr as
governor. The "law and order party" at the same time chose S. W.
King for the same office. In May, 1843, both parties met and organ
ized their respective governments, then armed, when a bloody strug-
OUTLINE HISTORY. H9
gle seemed inevitable. The insurgents, however, dispersed on the
approach of the government forces, and Dorr fled from the state.
Upon his return he was arrested for treason, and sentenced to be im
prisoned for life. He was, however, released in 1845.
The most important political event which took place during Mr.
Tyler's administration, was the subject of the annexation of Texas.
The proposition was first made by Texas, originally a province of
Mexico, in which a considerable number of emigrants, from the
United States, had settled. She had thrown off her allegiance to
their power, and had sustained her independence although unacknowl
edged by her. The proposition for annexation which would largely
increase the area and political strength of the slave system, was
warmly opposed by the more northern states. A treaty of annexa
tion, signed by the president, was rejected by congress, but in the fol
lowing year, 1845, the bill was passed.
In the year 1844, the first electric telegraph, the invention of Pro
fessor Morse, was completed in the United States. It extended from
Washington to Baltimore. The first words sent over it were, " Wfiat
hath God wrought?"*
FOLK'S ADMINISTRATION.
James K. Polk, the tenth president of the United States, was in
augurated March 4, 1845. Among the most important topics which
drew the public attention, were the annexation of Texas, and the
claims of Great Britain to a large portion of the territory of Oregon
on the Pacific Coast. The Texan government having approved, by
resolution on July 4, 1845, the joint resolution of the American con
gress in favor of annexation, Texas became that day one of the
states of the American Union, with the privilege of forming "new
states of convenient size, not exceeding four in number, in addition to
said state of Texas," whenever the population shall be sufficient.
The vast territory between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific,
was for some time a subject of dispute between the United States and
Great Britain. In 1818, it was agreed that each nation should enjoy
equal privileges on the coast for ten years. This agreement was re-
*The first message of a public nature sent over the wires, was the announcement of James
K. Polk, as the nominee of the Democratic party for the presidency, by their convention at
Baltimore.
120 OUTLINE HISTORY.
newed in 1827, for an indefinite time, with the stipulation that either
party might rescind it, by giving the other party twelve months' no
tice. Such notice was given by the United States in 1846. Great
Britain claimed a part of the territory. The boundary was finally
settled at the parallel of 49° north latitude, and in 1848, a territorial
government was established.
The annexation of Texas, as had been predicted, caused an immedi
ate rupture with Mexico, who still claimed it as part of their territory.
By the terms of the treaty of annexation the United States govern
ment was bound to protect the new state. In consequence of the
hostile movements of Mexico, General Taylor was sent in July 1845,
with several military companies to Corpus Christi Bay, on the fron
tiers of Texas. Afterward General Taylor took a position on the
Rio Grande, opposite Matamoras. While marching toward this point,
he was attacked by a large body of Mexicans, and the battles of Palo
Alto, and Resaca de la Palma ensued, which proved victorious to the
Americans. On September 21, 1846, the Americans, under General
Taylor, attacked Monterey, and on the 24th it surrendered. About
the same time divisions under Wool, Kearney, Fremont, and others,
penetrated New Mexico and California, and took possession of some
of the principal towns.
In January 1847, General Winfield Scott, who was appointed to the
chief command, reached Mexico. He soon made preparations to at
tack Vera Cruz, the nearest seaport to the city of Mexico. On Feb
ruary 22d, General Taylor gained a decisive victory at Buena Vista,
over the Mexican army under Santa Anna. The American force in
this bloody conflict, consisted of only about five thousand men, while
that of the Mexicans consisted of twenty thousand.
On the 13th of March, 1847, the United States military and naval
forces invested Vera Cruz, and on the 29th, the city and the strong
castle of San Juan d'Ulloa surrendered, with five thousand prisoners
and five hundred pieces of cannon. At least one thousand Mexi
cans were killed, and a great number maimed. The Americans haci
but forty killed, and about the same number wounded. General
Scott now proceeded toward the capital. At Cerro Gordo he was met
by Santa Anna, the president of the Mexican Republic, with twelve
thousand men. The action took place at a difficult mountain pass
which the Mexicans had strongly fortified with many pieces of can
non. With about eight thousand men, General Scott attacked the
Mexicans in their strong position. The assault was successful, and
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more than one thousand of the enemy were killed and wounded, and
three thousand were made prisoners. The American loss was four
hundred and thirty-one in killed and wounded. Santa Anna nar
rowly escaped capture by fleeing on a mule taken from his carriage.
On the 22d of April, the castle of Perote, on the summit of the
eastern Cordilleras, the strongest fortress in Mexico, excepting Vera
Cruz, was surrendered without resistance. The victorious army next
entered the ancient walled and fortified city of Puebla, without oppo
sition from its eighty thousand inhabitants. General Scott remained
in Puebla till August, when being reinforced by troops sent by the
way of Vera Cruz, he advanced toward the capital. The fortified
camp of Contreras, near the hights of Cherubusco, was attacked and
after a sanguinary contest, the Americans were victorious. Eighty
officers and three thousand private soldiers were made prisoners.
General Scott now directed a similar movement against Cherubusco.
The Americans were again successful: four thousand Mexicans were
killed and wounded, three thousand made prisoners, and thirty-seven
pieces of cannon were taken, all in one day. The American loss was
about eleven hundred.
On the 8th of September, about four thousand Americans attacked
fourteen thousand Mexicans under Santa Anna, at El Molinos del
Rey, near Chepultepec. They were at first repulsed with great
slaughter, but returning to the attack they fought desperately, and
drove the Mexicans from their position. Chepultepec, a strong for
tress on a lofty hill, the last fortress to be taken outside of the capi
tal, was carried by storm. The Mexicans fled to the city, which was
abandoned by Santa Anna and the officers of government. On the
16th of September, 1847, General Scott entered the city of Mexico
in triumph.
In the summer of 1846, during the pendency of this war, a bill was
before congress placing certain moneys at the disposal of the presi
dent, to negotiate an advantageous treaty of peace with the Mexican
government. To this bill Mr. David Wilmot, of Pennsylvania, offered
an amendment called the " Wilmot Proviso" which forbade the in
troduction of slavery into any part of the territory which should be
purchased from Mexico, under the contemplated treaty. The bill
passed the house and failed in the senate, the appointed time for the
adjournment of congress having arrived when that body had it under
discussion.
On the 2d of February 1848, the Mexican congress concluded a
122 OUTLINE HISTORY.
treaty of peace with the commissioners of the United States, at Gua-
daloupe Hidalgo, which was finally agreed to by both governments.
It stipulated the evacuation of Mexico by the American army within
three months; the payment of three millions of dollars in hand, and
twelve millions of dollars in four annual installments by the United
States to Mexico, for the territory acquired by conquest. It also
fixed boundaries, and otherwise adjusted several matters in dispute.
New Mexico, and California with her gold mines, now became terri
tories of the United States.
TAYLOR'S ADMINISTRATION.
On the 5th of March, 1849 (the 4th being Sunday), Zachary Tay
lor was inaugurated and occupied the presidential chair for sixteen
months. He was removed by death, on the 9th of July, 1850, after
an illness of only four days.
When President Taylor entered upon the duties of office, thousands
of adventurers were flocking to California in search of gold which
had been discovered on Captain Slitter's mill, on a branch of the Sac
ramento River, in 1848. Statesmen and politicians perceiving the
importance of the new territory began to agitate the question whether
slavery should have a legal existence in that section. The inhabitants,
in a convention at San Francisco, voted against slavery, and the con
stitution prepared and adopted at Monterey, September 1, 1849, ex
cluded slavery from the territory forever.
Delegates and senators having been appointed by the residents of
California, the latter asked for the admission of that territory as a free
and independent state. The article of the constitution which ex
cluded slavery, caused violent debates in congress, and bitter sec
tional feeling between the people of the north and south. In January,
1850, Henry Clay, as peacemaker, offered in the senate a plan of
compromise which met the difficulty. A bill for this purpose was dis
cussed for four months, and in September the famous "Compromise
Act" of 1850, became a law. The most important stipulations were,
1. That California should be admitted as a free state : 2. That the
vast country east of California, containing the Mormon settlements,
should be formed into a territory called Utah, without mention of
slavery: 3. That New Mexico should be made a territory without
any stipulations with regard to slavery, and that ten millions of dol
lars should be paid to Texas, for the purchase of her claims: 4.
OUTLINE HISTORY. 123
That the slave trade in the District of Columbia should be abolished :
5. A law providing for the arrest and return of all slaves escaping
to the northern or free states.
FILLMORE'S ADMINISTRATION.
Millard Fillmore, the vice-president, in accordance with the pro
visions of the constitution, succeeded General Taylor in the presi
dency, and on the 10th of July, 1850, took the oath of office. The
most important measure adopted during the early part of Fillmore's
administration, was the Compromise Act, of which some notice has
been given. In the spring of 1851, congress made important changes
in the general postoffice laws, chiefly in the reduction of letter pos
tage, fixing the rate upon a letter weighing not more than half an
ounce and prepaid, at three cents to any part of the United States,
at less distances than three thousand miles.
During the summer of 1851, considerable excitement was produced
by the movements for the purpose of invading the Island of Cuba.
The steamboat Cleopatra was seized at New York, on the charge of a
violation of the neutrality laws. Much excitement prevailed in Cuba,
and a large Spanish force was concentrated there. In August 1851,
General Lopez, a native of Cuba, sailed from New Orleans, and
landed on the northern coast of Cuba, with nearly five hundred men.
Having left Colonel Crittenden, of Kentucky, with one hundred men,
Lopez proceeded toward the interior. Colonel Crittenden and his
party were captured, carried to Havana and shot. Lopez was at
tacked and his little army dispersed. He was arrested, with six of
his followers, taken to Havana, and executed by the garote on the 1st
of September, 1851.
The first American expedition to the Arctic Regions, left New
York in May of 1850. It was sent out by Mr. Henry Grinnell, an
opulent merchant of that city, on an errand of humanity, in search of
Sir John Franklin, the missing navigator, who, as subsequent discove
ries have proved, perished with all of his crews, amid the regions of
the icy north. This "first Grinnell expedition," as it is called, con
sisted of two small vessels, the Advance and the Rescue, under the
command of Lieutenant E. De Haven, a young naval officer. Dr. E.
K. Kane was surgeon and naturalist, and wrote a history of the expe
dition which, after a variety of adventures, returned in the autumn
of 1851.
124 OUTLINE HISTORY.
In December 1851, Louis Kossuth, the exiled governor of Hungary,
arrived in New York from England, on a mission to the United States,
in quest of aid for his oppressed country. His great efforts in behalf
of freedom, and his extraordinary talents as a writer and orator, se
cured for him the greatest attention and respect, both in Great Britain
and America. The most important of the closing events of Mr. Fill-
more's administration, was the creation, by congress, of the territory
of Washington, out of the northern section of Oregon. This took
place March 2, 1853.
PIERCE' S ADMINISTRATION.
Franklin Pierce, the fourteenth president of the United States, was
inaugurated March 4, 1853, and continued in office for four years.
In 1846, our government had unsuccessfully attempted to open ne
gotiations with the Court of Japan, for the purpose of commerce.
The Columbus and Vincennes, under the command of Commodore
Biddle, in July of that year, entered the Bay of Jeddo, with a letter
from President Polk to the Emperor of Japan, defining the objects
desired. The reply was short and decisive. "No trade can be al
lowed with any foreign nation, except Holland." In the years 1853
and 1854, a second expedition, under Commodore Perry, was success
ful. A treaty was effected which opened the ports of that great na
tion to the commerce of the civilized world.
In January 1854, Senator Douglas introduced into congress a bill
called the "Kansas-Nebraska-bill" which occasioned great agitation
on the subject of slavery. A petition against the measure was pre
sented to the senate, signed by three thousand clergymen, principally
of New England. Much discussion was had upon it, but congress
finally passed the bill in May, 1854.
The passage of the Kansas-Nebraska-bill in effect rendered the
Missouri Compromise Act of no avail, if as was claimed, previous legis-
tion had not done so before.* It left all territory belonging to the
•;:"Mr. Douglass, chairman of the committee on territories in his report to the senate on
the Kansas-Nebraska-bill, stated it was apparent that the compromise measures of 1850,
affirm and rest upon this, among other propositions, viz : " That all questions pertaining to
slavery in the territories, and the new states to be formed therefrom, are to be left to tho
decision of the people residing therein, by their appropriate representatives, to be choseu
by them for that purpose."
It was claimed in reply, that even if this proposition was true, it had no application to
the territory under consideration for that comprised a part of the original territory of
Louisiana, in all of which north of latitude 36 deg. 30 min., under the Missouri Compromise
of 1820, slavery was forever prohibited.
OUTLINE HISTORY.
United States open to the introduction of slavery. A most desperate
struggle between the pro-slavery and anti-slavery parties now ensued
for the political ascendency. Two months after the repeal of the
Missouri Compromise, an Emigrant Aid Society was formed in
Boston : an act of incorporation having been previously made by the
legislature of Massachusetts. This movement excited the friends of
slavery to action ; and in Missouri combinations under the name of
"Blue Lodges," "Sons of the South," etc., were formed to extend
their institutions.
A territorial legislature was formed in 1855, and a "reign of terror"
commenced, and for more than a year civil war raged. In November,
1855, the free state party met in convention and formed a state con
stitution, and in the following January elections under it were held.
This was denounced by the president as an act of rebellion. Troubles
still continued, and acts of violence and bloodshed were committed.
The accounts from Kansas, being contradictory and alarming, the
United States house of representatives appointed a committee of three
to proceed to investigate the whole matter and report.
On the 1st of July, 1856, the majority of the committee reported
that the elections held under the organic or alleged territorial law,
had been carried by organized invasions from Missouri ; that the peo
ple of the territory had been prevented from exercising their rights;
that the alleged territorial legislature was an illegally constituted
body, and that their enactments were null and void. They also re
ported that neither the sitting delegate, J. W. Whitfield, or A. H.
Reeder, his free state opponent, were elected in pursuance of any
valid law.
The "Second Grinnell Expedition" to the Arctic regions in search
of Sir John Franklin, popularly known as Kane's expedition, sailed
from New York in May, 1853, and returned in October, 1855. It
consisted of a single vessel, the Advance, a small brig, and was under
the command of Dr. Kane. Important additions were made to the
geography of the Arctic regions, among which was the discovery of an
open and iceless sea toward the pole.
BUCHANAN'S ADMINISTRATION.
James Buchanan, the fifteenth president of the United States, was
inaugurated March 4, 1857. The events during his administration,
126 OUTLINE HISTORY.
now in its last quarter, have been full of interest. Among these may
be mentioned the final defeat of Colonel Walker in his expedition of
conquest to Central America; the Utah Expedition; and the intense
sectional agitation, growing out of the diverse views upon the subject
of slavery, as held respectively by the people of the free and of the
slave states. This agitation will doubtless terminate in ultimate
good, for nothing ever becomes a finality until it is settled right.
Men, singly or in bodies, by legislation or other means, are powerless
to control the march of great events which in their progress advance
the general welfare. It is this reflection which in the most gloomy
hour gives comfort to the patriot, and inspires him with confidence in
the future of the land, rendered sacred by the graves of his an
cestors, and loved as his own birthplace, and as the heritage of his
children.
MAINE.
ARMS OF MAINE.
DMo."-i '"«<*.
IN 1607, at the time the London Company commenced a perma
nent colony at Jamestown, in South Virginia, a similar enterprise
was matured by the Plymouth Com
pany, for settling another colony
in North Virginia. The leaders
were Lord John Popham, chief
justice of England, and Sir Fer
nando Gorges. A hundred emi
grants, beside mariners, were en
gaged in the enterprise, with arms,
utensils and provisions necessary,
until they might receive further
supplies. Embarked on board of
two ships, they sailed from Ply
mouth, the last day of May, and
falling in with Monhegan Island,
on the llth of August, landed on a
peninsula in Phipsburg, on the
Kenncbec River, called by the na
tives Sagadahoc. Here they located a settlement which was after
ward called the Sagadahoc Colony.
At this place a commodious house and barn were erected, a few
cabins built, and a fortification erected, which they named Fort
George, from the Christian name of the president of the company, arid
brother of Lord Popham ; but it was eventually called Popham' '« Fort.
After making all practical preparations for winter, on December 5th
the two ships sailed for England, leaving only forty-five colonists
situated between a wilderness, traversed by savages, on one hand, and
a waste of waters on the other. The winter was extremely severe,
and the colonists suffered much from the cold in their poor habita
tions. Beside this, it appears that by their imprudences they had
provoked a quarrel with the Indians.
The ships which arrived in 1608, with supplies for the colony,
brought intelligence of the death of Sir John Popham, and of Sir John
Gilbert, another prominent patron of the colony. These misfortunes,
with the death of the president, Captain George Popham, in whom
great confidence was placed, together with the loss of the stores the
preceding winter by a fire, so dispirited the company that the colony
unanimously resolved to return to England. The patrons of the
127
128 MAINE.
colony, offended at this unexpected result, desisted, for several years,
from making any further attempts toward a settlement.
As early as 1623, a permanent settlement was commenced at Saco
Gorges, fourteen years before, and afterward, had sent hither Rich
ard Vines and others, to collect facts and select some eligible situa
tion for planting a colony. The first winter they passed in the coun
try, was, in all probability, A. D. 1617—18, and at the mouth of the
Saco.* The place chosen was at Winter Harbor near the sea shore,
an inviting situation ; and six years after this, a patent was granted
to the settlers, and a form of government established.
The employments of the colonists were chiefly agriculture, and
fishing, and trade with the natives. Most of them combined these
pursuits, and were styled husbandmen or planters. They took up
tracts of one hundred acres, of which they received leases on nominal
or small rents. u Some of these," says Mr. Tolson in his history of
Saco and Biddeford, " are now on record — the estate that had been
in possession of Thomas Cole, including a mansion or dwelling, was
leased by Mr. Vines to John West, for the term of 1,000 years, for
an annual rent of two shillings and one capon, a previous considera
tion having been paid by West. The lease which is partly in the
Latin language, was executed in 1638." Another deed requires the
rent charge of five shillings, two days' work, and one fat goose yearly.
In this manner were all the planters rendered tenants to the proprie
tors, none of them holding their estates in fee simple. Fishing was
the most common occupation, as it was both easy and profitable to
barter the products of this business, for corn from Virginia, and other
stores from England. The trade with the planters of Massachusetts
soon became considerable.
In 1630, the Plymouth Council granted a patent called Lygonia.
The territory, though indefinitely described, was 40 miles square, and
extended from Cape Porpoise to Casco. It was executed by the Earl
of Warwick, the president of the council, and by Sir Fernando
Gorges, claimant of the country under a former assignment to him
and John Mason. To encourage emigration, a very flattering account
was given of the country. A small company came over and located
themselves on the south side of Sagadahoc, in Casco Bay. This com
pany, after staying about one year, in 1631, removed to Watertown,
in Massachusetts.
The next patent granted by the Plymouth Council, was on March
2, 1630, to John Beauchamp, of London, and Thomas Leverett, of
Boston, England, and was called the "Muscongus Patent or Grant."
Its extent was from the sea board between the Rivers Penobscot and
Muscongus, to an unsurveyed line running east and west, so far north
as would, without interfering with the Kennebec or any other patent,
embrace a territory equal to thirty miles square. About 89 years
afterward, the Waldos became extensively interested in the grant;
* Williamson's History of Maine, vol. 1, p. 227.
MAINE. 129
and from them it took the name of "the Waldo Patent." It contained
no powers of government, but was procured expressly for the purpose
of an exclusive trade with the natives.
The eighth and last grant of lands by the Plymouth Council, with
in the present state of Maine, was the " Pemaquid Patent" granted
Feb. 20, 1631, to two merchants of Bristol, Robert Aldsworth and
Gyles Elbridge. "It extended from the sea between the Rivers Mus-
congus and Damariscotta, so far northward as to embrace 12,000 acres,
beside settlers' lots; it also was to include 100 acres for every person
who should be transported hither by the proprietors within seven
years, who should reside here seven years. It included the Damaris-
cove Islands, and all others within nine leagues from the shore. This
grant secured extensive charter privilege to the proprietary grantees
and their associates, with the powers of establishing the civil govern
ment. They had a right to hunt, fish, fowl, and trade with the na
tives in any part of New England ; and these were their exclusive
privileges, within their own patent. The earliest settlements appear
to have been made on the western banks of the Pemaquid, in 1623 or
1624. A fort was built here before the date of the patent, but rifled
by pirates in 1632. Formal possession was taken in May, 1633, and
the plantation had a gradual increase till the first Indian war.
The New Plymouth colonists undismayed by the attack on their
trading house at Pemaquid [Penobscot], kept the station and pursued
their traffic three years longer, before they were obliged to entirely
abandon the place. In the spring of 1634, they established a new
trading house at Machias. In 1632, King Charles, of England, re
signed to the French Monarch, " all the places occupied by British
subjects in New France, Acadia and Canada — especially the command
of Port Royal, Fort Quebec and Cape Breton. This act of the Eng
lish monarch, who performed it without consulting the nation, became
one of importance to the northern colonies, especially to Maine.
The French monarch, desirous to advance the settlement of his
Acadian colony, made several extensive grants, one of the first was to
Razilla, which embraced the river and bay of St. Croix, and the is
lands in the vicinity, 12 leagues on the sea and 20 leagues into land.
The next year, 1634, he made several important grants to La Tour,
one of which was 100 miles eastward, upon the coast from the isle of
Sables ; and as many miles inland. La Tour, upon hearing of the
Plymouth establishment at Machias, affected to feel much indignation,
and hastened to lay it in ruins. Meeting with resistance, he killed
two of the defendants, and after rifling the house of such valuable
articles as he could find, he carried his booty and the survivors to
Port Royal. Mr. Allerton, of New Plymouth, who afterward was
sent to recover the prisoners and goods, inquired of La Tour if he
had authority for his proceedings. La Tour replied, "My authority is
from the King of France, who claims the coast from Cape Sable to
Cape Cod — my sword is all the commission 1 shall show — take your
men and begone"
130 MAINE.
Another difficulty occurred at Kennebec, from a question of exclu
sive trade. New Plymouth, in the exercise of that right had, upon
the river, two trading stations, at Fort Popham and at Cushnoc, and
two resident magistrates, who were vested with power to try every
case not capital. In May 1634, one Hoskins coming hither in a ves
sel of Lords Say and Brooke from Piscataqua, was expressly forbid to
trade with the natives, and ordered to depart. John Alden, one of
the magistrates, finding him inexorable, sent three men to cut his
cables. They parted one: — " Touch the oilier" said he, swearing with
an oath, and seizing a gun, " and death is your portion" They cut —
and he shot one of them dead, receiving himself, at the same moment,
a fatal wound. The blood of these two men abated the quarrel in
this quarter. This lamentable occurrence caused much excitement,
the royalists and malcontents exclaiming loudly — " When men cut
throats for beaver, it is high time to have a general government" Mr.
Alden was arrested and brought to trial, but the case was finally ad
judged to be one of "excusable homicide"
In 1635, the Plymouth Council surrendered their charter to the
king, who appointed eleven of his privy counselors, lords commission
ers of all his American plantations, and committed to them the gene
ral superintendence and direction of colonial affairs. By the appli
cation of this body, Sir Fernando Gorges received a commission of
governor-general over the whole of New England. By his first pat
ent, and by the assignment of the Plymouth Council, he obtained an
"absolute property," in the territory between Piscataqua and Sagada-
hoc, or the two divisions in conjunction called New Somersetshire. In
order to organize and establish an administration of justice, he sent
over his nephew, William Gorges, in the capacity of governor, who
proved to be a man equal to the trust. He commenced his adminis
tration in Saco, at the dwelling house of Mr. Bonython, on the east
side of the river near the shore.
He opened a court, March 28, 1636: present, Richard Bonython,
Thomas Commock, Henry Joscelyn, Thomas Purchas, Edward God
frey, and Thomas Lewis, commissioners, who arraigned, tried, and
punished, or fined for divers offenses : and if Gorges was exercising a
power as extensive as his jurisdiction, every wrong doer between Pis
cataqua and Sagadahoc, was amenable to this tribunal : it being the
first organized government established within the present state of Maine.
At this period, the number of inhabitants in the territory was esti
mated at about 1,400. The continuance of William Gorges adminis
tration was, probably, less than two years, for in July, 1637, the au
thorities of Massachusetts were presented with the transcript of a
commission from Sir Fernando, by which gentlemen therein named
were appointed to take into their hands the government of the
province, and the superintendence of his private affairs. This extra
ordinary trust was, however, declined.
In 1639, Sir Fernando Gorges obtained of King Charles I, a pro
vincial charter, possessing uncommon powers and privileges. The
MAINE. 131
territory is described "as beginning at the mouth of the Piscataqua,"
and extending " north-westward one hundred and twenty miles from
Piscataqua harbor ; north-eastward along the sea coast to the Saga-
dahoc," thence through that river and the Kennebec "north-westward
one hundred and twenty miles," and thence overland to the utmost
northerly end of the line first mentioned ; including the north half
of the Isles of Shoals, and the Islands " Capawock and Nautican near
Cape Cod;" also "all the islands and inlets within five leagues of the
main along the coasts between the said Rivers Piscataqua and Sagada-
hoc." By the charter, this territory, and the inhabitants upon it,
were incorporated into a body politic, and named THE PROVINCE OR
COUNTY OF MAINE. Sir Fernando and his heirs, were lords proprie
tors of the province, and the Church of England was made the estab
lished religion.
After the death of Sir Fernando Gorges in 1647, the settlers in
Maine entertained doubts whether the powers of the charter, or at
least the administration of government did not expire with the lord
proprietor. They accordingly formed themselves into a " social com
pact " to see that the country was regulated according to their usual
laws, and to make such others as were needful, but " not repugnant to
the fundamental laws of our native country." It was also ordained,
that a governor and five or six counselors, magistrates, or assistants,
should be annually chosen. Finding that their sovereign Charles I,
was no more, and that the government of England was in the hands
of the commons, they readily took direction from that body.
The government of Maine was administered in an independent form
until 1652, when most of the inhabitants agreed to come under the
jurisdiction of Massachusetts. By the charter given to Roswell and
others in 1628, Massachusetts claimed the soil and jurisdiction of
Maine as far as the middle of Casco Bay. Maine then took the name
of Yorkshire ; and county courts were held in the same manner they
were in Massachusetts, and the towns had liberty to send their deputies
or representatives to the general court at Boston.
Upon the restoration of Charles II, the heirs of Gorges complained
to the crown of the Massachusetts' usurpation ; and in 1665, the king's
commissioners who visited New England, came to the province of
Maine and appointed magistrates and other officers independently of
Massachusetts. The magistrates thus created, administered according
to such instructions as the king's commissioners had given them un
til the year 1668, when the Massachusetts general court, sent down
commissioners and interrupted such as acted by the authority derived
from the king's commissioners. At this time public affairs were in
confusion ; some declaring for Gorges and the magistrates appointed
by the king's commissioners, and others for Massachusetts. The latter
however prevailed, and the courts of pleas, and criminal jurisdiction
were held as in other parts of Massachusetts.
About the year 1674, the heirs of Gorges complained again to the
king and council of the usurpation of Massachusetts, which province
3
132 MAINE.
was called upon to answer for their conduct. The result was, they
ceased for a time their jurisdiction. Gorges, the grandson of Fer
nando, sent over instructions. But in 1677, Massachusetts, by their
agent, John Usher, Esq., afterward governor of New Hampshire, pur
chased the interest and right for £1,200 sterling. Massachusetts now
supposed that they had both the jurisdiction and soil, and accordingly
governed in the manner the charter of Maine had directed, until 1684,
wrhen the Massachusetts' charter was vacated. In 1686, Sir Edmund
Andros, noted for his tyranny, was appointed governor, captain-
general, etc., over Massachusetts, Maine, and the other New England
colonies. The people bore his tyranny until the beginning of 1689,
when a rumor reached Boston, that William, Prince of Orange, had
invaded England, with the hope of dethroning the king. Andros was
immediately seized and placed in confinement, and a council of safety
was organized to administer the government until further news should
be received from England.
In 1691, a charter was given by William and Mary, under which
Maine and the large territory eastward was incorporated with Massa
chusetts. From this period the history of Maine is blended with that
of Massachusetts ; and until she had a state government of her own,
the operation of the laws, customs, pursuits and fortunes of " the dis
trict" were the same as those of Massachusetts.
Maine, from the period of its early settlement, was much harassed
by hostile Indians, particularly during the French and Indian wars.
In 1692, York and Wells were attacked by the French and Indians.
From this time until about 1702, was one continued scene of blood
shed, burning, and destroying. The inhabitants suffered much for
several years before and after the year 1724. As late as 1744 and
1748, persons were captured and killed by the savages. During these
wars the Indians in the French interest were encouraged by the
French Catholic missionaries to make aggressions upon the English,
whom they considered intruders upon the country. One of the most
prominent was Father Sebastian Ralle, a Jesuit, and a man of learning
and address who resided at Norridgewock, with a tribe of that name.
He was much endeared to the Indians by his religious labors among
them for a space of thirty-seven years. He was killed in the attack
on Norridgewock in 1724.
During the revolutionary struggle with Great Britain, Maine, in
common with other parts of the country, was the theater of military
operations. Falmouth (now Portland) was laid in ashes in October,
1775. It was through the vast wilderness in the north-west section
of the state that General Arnold, in 1775, marched on his celebrated
expedition to Quebec.
In 1820, after much previous discussion of the most deliberate and
prudent kind, a separation from Massachusetts was effected by mutual
arrangements. All the voters in the towns and plantations of Maine
were directed to meet on the fourth Monday in July, 1819, and give
their votes either for or against the proposition of separating from
MAINE.
Massachusetts, and forming themselves into a new state. The whole
number of votes given was 17,091, of which only 7,132 were against
the measure of separation. The governor of Massachusetts issued his
proclamation announcing the result ; delegates from the towns were
appointed, who met in Portland, October llth, and a draft -for a state
constitution was formed. On the 3d of March, 1820, the congress
passed an act, in which Maine was admitted into the Union, on an
equal footing with the original states. The Honorable William King
was, without opposition, elected the first governor.
The northern divisional line between Maine and the British pro
vinces was for a time a subject of much controversy. By a partial
construction of the treaty of 1783, nearly a third of Maine was claimed
by Great Britain. The land agents of Maine were taken at Mada-
waska, in Aroostook County, and imprisoned at Fredericton, New
Brunswick, by order of the British government. This caused much
excitement; troops were raised, and an appeal to arms seemed to be
impending. In 1842, a treaty, adjusting the boundary was nego
tiated at Washington, between Daniel Webster, on the part of the
United States, and Lord Ashburton on behalf of Great Britain.
In 1851, after much discussion, and many efforts on the part of the
friends of temperance, the celebrated "Maine Law" the production
of Hon. Neal Dow, of Portland, was passed by an act of the legisla
ture, and was approved on the 2d of June by the governor.
MAINE, by far the largest of the New England states, arid the most
easterly of the United States, is bounded on the north by Canada
East, on the east by New Brunswick, south by the Atlantic Ocean,
and west by New Hampshire and Canada East. It lies between 43°
5' and 47° 30' north latitude, and between 66° 50' and 71° west longi
tude, being about 250 miles in extreme length, and 190 in its greatest
breadth from east to west, including an area containing upward of
twenty millions of acres, of which not more than one ninth is improved.
The shores of Maine are indented by deep bays, forming many ex
cellent harbors ; and its waters are studded with a great variety of
islands, from the rocky islet to those of 150 miles in extent. Near
the coast the land is generally level, but rises on proceeding inland,
and the most part of the state is hilly, forming in many places ele
vated cones, several of which reach an elevation of 4,000 feet, while
Mt. Katahdin rises to the hight of 5,335 feet above the level of the
sea. A ridge of broken and detached eminences, apparently a con
tinuation of the White Mountains, extends along the western borders
of Maine for some distance, and then crosses the state in a north-east
direction, forming a chain of scattered peaks which terminate in Mars
Hill, on the eastern boundary. There are numerous lakes among
these mountains, the largest of which are Moosehead, Sebago, Ches-
uncook and Umbago. Some of these are celebrated for their pictur
esque beauty. The rivers of Maine are numerous and important, fur-
134 MAINE.
nishing abundant water power for mills and channels for navi oration,
and down which are floated vast quantities of lumber. The Kenne-
bec and Penobscot are the two most important streams ; the former is
navigable to Augusta, and the latter to Bangor. The Saco, Andro-
scoggin and St. Croix enter the Atlantic. The St. John and its
branches drain the northern part of the state, and by a treaty is open
to the navigation of the Americans.
The winters of Maine are long and severe, but the cold is generally
steady, and freo from those frequent changes common further south.
The soil is various as its surface. The best lands are in the vicinity
of the Penobscot and Kennebec Rivers. The land in the mountain
ous part of the state is generally poor. The most abundant agricul
tural products are potatoes, oats, Indian corn, hay, butter, cheese,
wool, live stock, and fruits, beside considerable quantities of wheat
and rye. The great staple of Maine is its lumber. Extensive forests
of pine cover the country around the sources of the Kennebec, Pe
nobscot and other rivers. In winter, great numbers of men are em
ployed in felling trees, and dragging them to the rivers, where in the
spring they are floated down to the mills, and manufactured into lum
ber. Great numbers of persons are employed in the fisheries. More
ships are built, and perhaps more boards and scantling sawed in Maine
than in any other state in the Union. Till recently, the population
was almost wholly of English or New England origin. The popula
tion, in 1790, was 96,540, and in 1820, when separated from Massa
chusetts, was 298,335. In 1830, its population was 399,455 ; in
1840, 501,793 ; in 1850, 583,169 ; now about 700,000.
PORTLAND, the largest city, and the commercial metropolis of Maine,
is pleasantly situated on a peninsula at the west extremity of Casco
Bay, between Casco River on the south, and Back Cove, which makes
up from the harbor on the north. It is 65 miles S. W. from Augusta,
105 N. N. E. from Boston, 136 from Bangor, and 290 S. E. from
Montreal. The ground on which the city is built rises both toward
its eastern and western extremities, which gives a beautiful appear
ance to the general outlines of the place, as it is approached from the
sea. The whole length of the peninsula is about three miles, and its
average width about three fourths of a mile. The harbor is one of
the best on the Atlantic coast, being land-locked, safe, capacious, easy
of access, and of a depth sufficient for the largest ships. It is well
defended by forts Preble and Scammel. The city is generally regu
larly laid out, and handsomely built, chiefly of brick. Many of the
houses are elegant. Beautiful elms and other shade trees adorn many
of the streets. It has 26 churches, belonging to 12 different denomi
nations. The public schools, 25 in number, are of a high order of
excellence, and are supported at an annual expense to the city of
about §25,000. There are also quite a number of charitable, literary
and scientific associations. The fine situation of Portland, and it3
MAINE.
135
numerous surrounding summer retreats, its superior capabilities for
the transaction of business, and its general health, are rapidly tend
ing to increase its population, and attract strangers from various parts
of the Union. Several important railroads center at Portland, among
which is the Atlantic and St. Lawrence, connecting it with Montreal,
Canada. Its foreign commerce is mainly with Europe and the West
Indies ; and its chief exports, lumber, ice, fish, provisions, etc. Pop
ulation in 1830, 12,601; in 1840, 15,218; in 1850, 20,879; now,
about 28,000.
Southern view of Portland,
[The view annexed is from near the western extremity of the bridge and causeway, connecting Portland
with the township of Cape Elizalx-th. The station for the Atlantic and St. Lawrence Railroad is seen on
the left, the southwest section of the city. The railroad to Bangor winds around the verge of the extreniu
point on the right. The observatory, on Mt. Joy, 80 feet in hight, and 22(5 feet above the level of the sea,
appears in the eastern part of the city, on the right.]
Portland was formerly a part of Falmouth. In July, 1786, the
compact part of that town and the port were incorporated by the
name of Portland, It originally contained within its limits the pres
ent towns of Falmouth, Cape Elizabeth, Portland and Westbrook ; and
embraced a number of large and valuable islands lying in Casco Bay.
The first occupation of any part of Falmouth, of which we have any
evidence, was of Richmond's Island, about a mile southerly from Cape
Elizabeth, by Walter Bagnall, in 1628. His object seems to have been
solely to drive a profitable trade with the Indians, by whatever means
within his power. lie lived upon the island alone, and accumulated
considerable wealth. He was killed by the Indians in Oct., 1681.
George Cleeves and Richard Tucker established themselves near the
mouth of the Spurwink River in 1630, but the territory being granted
by the council of Plymouth to Robert Trelawny and Moses Good-
yeare obliged them to seek another spot for a settlement. Driven
from the place which they had selected as the most favorable for their
purposes, and where they had made improvements and prepared ac-
136 MAINE.
commodations, their next care was to provide another convenient sit
uation in the wilderness, where they might hope to enjoy without in
terruption the common bounties of nature. They selected the Neck,
called Machigonne by the natives, now Portland, for their habitation,
and erected there, in 1632, the first house, and probably cut the first
tree that was ever felled upon it by an European hand.
" In 1636, Cleeves went to England and procured of Gorges, who had acquired
a title to the province of Maine, then called the province of New Somersetshire;
a deed to himself and Tucker, of a large tract in Falmouth, including the Neck,
on which they had settled. This deed, dated Jan. 27, 1637, was in the form of a
lease for two thousand years. It conveyed, in consideration of £100 sterling, and
an annual quit rent, the following described tract: 'Beginning at the furthermost
point of a neck of land, called by the Indians, Machigonne, and now and forever
from henceforth to be called or known by the name of Stogummor, and so along
the same, westerly, as it tendeth to the first falls of a little river issuing out of a
very small pond, and from thence overland to the falls of Pesumoca, being the
first falls in that river upon a straight line, containing, by estimation, from fall to
fall as aforesaid, near about an English mile, which together with the said Neck
of land,' etc. Hog Island was also included in the deed.
In the beginning of the year 1675, Falmouth contained upward of 40 families ;
the population had been steadily increasing in every part, mills had been estab
lished at Capisic, and on the lower foils of the Penobscot River, and the borders
of both rivers were occupied by an enterprising people. But their opening pros
pects were all changed by King Philip's war, which commenced in Plymouth col
ony in June of this year. The first blood shed was at the northern end of Casco
Bay, when a reconnoitering party of English, fired upon three Indians, killing
one and wounding another. The Indians, after this affair, threw off all restraint,
and plundered and killed the inhabitants in this part of the country whenever
they had an opportunity. In 1676, Falmouth was burnt, and 34 persons were
killed or carried away captives. Soon after the peace was concluded at Casco,
April 12, 1678, the inhabitants began to return to their desolated lands.
In the second Indian war, in May, 1690, Falmouth was again laid in ashes, and
the fort was taken by the French and Indians. The fort mentioned in the follow
ing account was situated on a rocky bluff at or near the foot of King street, at the
base of which the enemy could securely work, beyond the reach of the guns. The
following is the account given by Capt. Davis, the commander of the fort:
'Myself having command of a garrison in Falmouth, for the defense of the
same, a party of French from Canada, joined with a company of Indians, to the
number of betwixt four and five hundred French and Indians, set upon our fort.
The 16th of May, 1690, began our fight; the 20th, about three o'clock, afternoon,
we were taken. They fought us five days and four nights, in which time they
killed and wounded the greater part of our men, burned all the houses, and at last
we were forced to have a parley with them, in order for a surrender. We not know
ing whether there were any French among them, we set up a flag of truce in order
for a parley. We demanded if there were any French among them, and if they
would give us quarter. They answered that they were Frenchmen, and that they
would give us good quarter. Upon this answer, we sent out to them again, to
know from whence they came, and if they would give us good quarter, for our
men, women and children, both wounded and sound, and that we should have lib
erty to march to the next English town, and have a guard for our defense and
safety unto the next English town — then we would surrender; and also that the
governor of the French should hold up his hand and swear by the great and ever
living God, that the several articles should be performed. All of which he sol
emnly said should be performed ; but as soon as they had us in their custody, they
broke their articles, suffered our women and children, and our men to be made
captives in the hands of the heathen, to be cruelly murdered, and destroyed many
of them, and especially our wounded men ; only the French kept myself and three
or four more, and carried us over by land for Canada.' "
MAINE. 137
The burning of Falmouth, the pride of Maine, was a prominent
event at the beginning of the revolution. The central part was the
ancient Casco, now Portland, called the Neck, which had been perma
nently settled more than 145 years. There were upon the peninsula
at this time about 250 dwelling houses, as many shops and stores,
and about 2,000 inhabitants. On Oct. 16, 1775, Capt. Mowett, with
a squadron of four vessels, arrived in the harbor. After he had
moored his vessels in a line near the compact part of the town, he
sent a letter on shore, charging the inhabitants with rebellion ; he
stated that he was sent to execute a just punishment, and that he gave
them two hours to remove the " human species " out of the town.
The town convened forthwith, and appointed Gen. Preble, Dr. Coffin,
and John Pagan, a committee to learn of Mowett the cause of his
letter and threats. "My orders," said he, " are to burn, sink and
destroy, and this without warning." On the morning of the 18th of
October, Mowett offered them some respite, if they would deliver up
their arms and ammunition ; the town voted not to comply with his
terms.
"About nine in the same morning, the firing was opened from all the vessels,
and being urged with great briskness, a horrible shower of cannon balls, from
three to "nine pounds weight, carcasses, bombs, live shells, grape-shot, and even
bullets from small arms, were thrown upon the compact part of the town, which
was much more exposed and injured by reason of its inclined situation to ward the
harbor. Armed parties, under the cover of the guns, set fire to the buildings;
and though some of them were saved by the watchfulness and courage of the in
habitants, others were blazing in every part of the village. The cannonading was
continued between eight and nine hours; and the conflagration was general. Si,
Paul's Church, the new court house, the town house, the public library, the fire
engine, about 130 dwelling houses, and 230 stores and warehouses, and a great
number of stables and out-houses, were all in a short time reduced to ashes. Two
vessels only escaped the flames, to be carried away by the enemy."
Portland received a city charter in 1832. The church of the first
parish or society was built in 1825. Their original meeting house is
said to have been the first erected in the state. The first Episcopal
Church was formed in 1763 ; the first society of Methodists was
formed in 1795 ; the first Baptist Church was constituted in 1801 ; the
Catholic Church was erected in 1828. The Seamen's Church, or
Bethel, was first organized in 1827 ; the first society of Friends was
collected in 1743 ; in 1790 the present society was established.
The eastern cemetery, near which the observatory is erected, was the
ancient graveyard of the place. The remains of Commodore Preble,
and those of Rev. Dr. Payson, so celebrated for his devotional spirit,
are interred in this yard, each of which have on their monuments, a
simple inscription to their memories. Here also are interred, side by
side, Capt. Burroughs, of the U. S. brig Enterprise, and Capt. Blythe,
of the British brig Boxer, who both fell in a naval conflict in 1813,
at sea near Portland. The following inscriptions are on their monu
ments, with that on the monument of Lieut. Waters :
In memory of CAPT. SAMUEL BLYTHE, late commander of his Britannic majesty's brig
Boxer. He nobly fell on the 5th day of September, 1813, in action with the U. S. brig En
terprise. In life, honorable ; in death, glorious ! His country will long deplore one of her
138 MAINE.
bravest son? I His friends long lament one of the best of men ! Aged 29. The surviving
officers of his crew offer this feeble tribute of admiration and respect.
Beneath this stone moulders the body of WILLIAM BURROUGHS, late commander of the
United States brig Enterprise, who was mortally wounded on the 5th of September, 1813, in
an action which continued to increase the fame of American valor, by capturing his Britannic
majesty's brig Boxer, after a severe contest of forty-five minutes. Aged 28. A passing
stranger has erected this monument of respect to the manes of a patriot who, in the hour of
peril, obeyed the loud summons of an injured country, and who gallantly met, fought and
conquered the foemen.
Beneath this marble, by the side of his gallant commander, rest the remains of Lieut.
HERVIN WATERS, a native of Georgetown, District of Columbia, who received a mortal
wound, Sept. 5, 1813, while a midshipman onboard the United States brig Enterprise, in an
action with his Britannic majesty's brig Boxer, which terminated in the capture of the lat
ter. He languished in severe pain, which he endured with fortitude, until Sept. 25, 1813,
when he died with Christian calmness and resignation, aged 18. The young men of Port
land erect this stone as a testimony of respect for his valor and virtues.
"The Bo*xer, a British brig of IS guns, carrying 104 men, and commanded by
Capt. Blythe, had been ordered to cruise off Portland, for the purpose of bringing
the American brig Enterprise, of 16 guns and 102 men, Capt. Burroughs, to an
engagement. They discovered each other on the morning of Sept. 5 ; and at a
quarter past three in the afternoon, the action commenced within half pistol shot.
For thirty-five minutes the firing was animated and incessant, when the Boxer
struck her colors, having lost 46 men in killed and wounded. Only two of our
men were slain, though 12 others received severe, if not mortal wounds; also,
both commanders fell early in the action. The Enterprise, arriving at Portland
the next day with her prize, was greeted with great and heart-felt exultation,
damped only by the death of the intrepid Burroughs and his brave companions.
He was interred with every demonstration of attachment, respect and grief; and
a fort, afterward erected for the defense of the harbor, was called by his name.
The capture of the Boxer was an event which excited more universal joy among
the inhabitants upon the eastern coast, because of the great annoyance she had
boon to our coasting. She had also been a troublesome visitant at several of the
islands."
- -
South-eastern view of Augusta.
[The engraving shows the appearance of the principal business part of Augiista, as seen from the ea3t
bank of the Kennebec River. On the left is seen the railroad train for Portland ; the Kenuebec bridge is
shown on the right ; the court house, the First Baptist and Episcopal Churches appear on the elevated
ground above the railroad cars ; the First Congregational, the Free-will Baptist and the Catholic Churches
in the central part, above the business portion of the city."]
AUGUSTA, the capital of Maine, is at the head of sloop navigation
on the Kennebec River, 43 miles from its mouth. By railroad, it is
MAINE. 13g
60 miles N. N. E. from Portland, 67 S. W. from Bangor, 175 N. N.
E. from Boston, 146 N. E. from Concord, N. H., and 182 E. N. E.
from Montpclier, Vt. The city limits embrace both sides of the river,
but the principal part is built on the west side. The bridge over the
Kennebec at this place is 520 feet long ; about one fourth of a mile
above, the river is crossed by the railroad bridge, 900 feet in length.
A few rods distant from the river, the ground rises abruptly to a con
siderable elevation, on the summit of which, most of the public build
ings and residences are built on a wide and commodious street. The
state house, a noble structure of whitish granite, is situated at the
southern extremity of the city, in rather of an isolated, though com
manding, position. Directly in front, is a spacious park, adorned
with walks and shade trees. On the east side of the river, opposite,
contiguous to the U. S. Arsenal grounds, stands the Maine Insane
Hospital, a fine granite structure. On the morning of Dec. 4, 1850,
most of the building was destroyed by fire, in which 27 of the unfor
tunate inmates perished. The state, true to the call of humanity,
promptly rebuilt the hospital, at the expense of some §65,000, adopt
ing all the modern improvements which the original architectural ar
rangement would allow.
Through the construction of a dam, 584 feet in length, above the
city, a vast hydraulic power has been created for manufacturing pur
poses. By this means, the navigation of the river above, to Water-
ville, 18 miles distant, is much improved, so that during the summer
season, steamboats daily ply between Augusta and Waterville. Ship
building is carried on to some extent. The facilities at this place for
transportation are of great value to a manufacturing town. Cotton
and other raw materials may be transported, by water and the cars,
to and from the very doors of the mills. Population of Augusta is
about 11,000.
"Augusta is the ancient Cushnoc, a very noted place upon the Kennebec. Soon
after the patent upon that river was granted to the Plymouth Colony, in 1629, the
patentees, it appears, made settlements, and erected a trading house near the
head of the tide. In their institution of government, A. D. 1653, within the pat
ent, under a commissioner, Mr. Thomas Prince, the people residing at Cushnoc
were included therein, and took the oath of fidelity. The settlement was laid
waste in the second Indian war, and resumed, with partial success, after the peace
of 1713, when Dr. Noyes built a stone fort at Cushnoc. But the place was again
depopulated, and remained without inhabitants till Fort Western was built there
in 1754, by the Plymouth proprietors. Soon after the French war was closed, a
resettlement was permanently effected and gradually increased, yet it is said that
there were only 'three families,' in what is now the village of Augusta. *:*••*
The settlement was known by the name of the 'Fort,' till it was separated from
Hallo well. In 1794, the town was divided into three religious societies, called the
South, Middle, and North parishes. The two latter are embraced by Augusta. *
The first meeting of the legislature was in Jan. 1832." — Williamsons Hist,
of Maine.
Hallowdl is beautifully situated, two miles below Augusta, on the
west side of the Kennebec, in fair view of the State House. The
streets run parallel with the river, and the ground ascends about 200
feet from the lower street or business part of the city. Most of the
140 MAINE.
dwellings are on the back or elevated streets, and are built, as are
the churches, with taste; and being surrounded by groves make a
fine appearance. There are various factories in the town. Ship
building is also carried on, and the granite quarries here have been
worked with great success. The Kennebec and Portland Railroad
passes through the place ; vessels drawing nine feet of water can
come up to the wharves ; and steamboats ply between this place and
Boston. It was incorporated a city in 1850, since which time its
business affairs have been much increased. Population of the town
ship about 5,000.
HaUowell was incorporated in 1771, and at that time embraced the present Au
gusta, the ancient Cushnoc. It received its name from the Hallowell family, who
were among the Plymouth proprietors. The village of Hallowell is situated at a
place called the Hook. Here had been inhabitants or resident traders for 120
years before its incorporation. The place was depopulated during the first Indian
war, and again after the peace of 1713 ; though the inhabitants were unable to de
fend themselves against the bold tribe of Indians seated at Norridgewock. "The
original lots in Hallowell, on the west side of the river were four, each a mile wide,
extending from the river to Winthrop Pond. Two were granted, in 1760, to Dr.
Gardiner, one to Mr. Pitts and one to Mr. Hallowell, two of the Plymouth proprie
tors. The same year Dr. Gardiner erected a grist-mill at the mouth of the Cob-
bessecontee River; at which the inhabitants on the river above, were able to pro
cure the grinding of their corn and grain."
Gardiner lies on the Kennebec, six miles south from Augusta, and
four miles below Hallowell. It is located at the head of large navi
gation, and is quite a flourishing place. It was incorporated as a
town in 1803, and was named in honor of Dr. Sylvester Gardiner, one
of the proprietors of the old Plymouth patent, who, in 1760, erected
a mill here, and began a settlement. The Colbessecontee River enters
the Kennebec at this place, and within the limits of a mile there are
eight stone dams across this stream, upon which are establishments for
sawing boards, etc., paper, and other mills. About 6,000 tuns of
shipping are owned here, more than half of which are employed in the
southern and foreign trade. Gardiner was incorporated a city in
1849; it contains eight churches, and about 5,000 inhabitants. Gar
diner, Hallowell, and Augusta, lie in a favored section of the state on
the same side of the river, and are united by similar interests, and
connected by a railroad passing between them.
Waterville, 18 miles north from Augusta, is situated on the west
bank of the Kennebec, at the Ticonic Falls. It was incorporated as a
part of Winslow in 1771, and as a separate town in 1802. It is con
nected with Bangor, by the Kennebec and Penobscot Railroad, and it
is also the terminus of the Kennebec and Portland Railroad. The
water power aiforded by the Titonic Falls, and others in the vicinity,
is very great, and might easily be made available to almost any ex
tent; but a part of it is at present employed. There are numerous
mills for sawing lumber, grinding grain, etc.; also various manufac
turing establishments, principally of machinery, castings, etc. From
Augusta, goods are transported to Waterville in large flat boats, some
of which carry 40 tuns. The village contains four or five churches,
MAINE.
and about 4,000 inhabitants. The Liberal Institute, a seminary
founded by the Universalists, and the Waterville College, founded by
the Baptists, are in this place. The college has two edifices for
rooms, a chapel and commons hall. It was founded in 1813, as a
theological school ; in 1821, it was converted into a college. It is
open to all denominations, and has facilities for manual labor.
NorridgewocJc, the chief town of Somerset county, is 30 miles north
of Augusta. It is a small village on both sides of the Kermebec, con
taining the county buildings and a Female Academy. The Indian
village of the Norridgewock or Canibas tribe, was situated partly in
Norridgewock, and extended along the banks of the river to the foot
of Norridgewock Falls, in Madison. The Jesuits established a mis
sion here, and in 1646, they erected a rude chapel at Old Point. In
the war of 1674, their chapel was burnt; and after the war, was re
built of hewn timber, which remained till the tribe was destroyed by
a military force sent for that purpose, by Massachusetts, commanded
by Capts. Moulton and Harman, Aug. 1724, when their chapel was
burnt. Among the slain was Father Sebastian jRasles, or Halle. A
monument was erected to his memory, on the 23d of Aug. 1833, by
Bishop Fenwick, of Boston, at an expense of §200. It was a plain
granite pyramidal shaft standing on a base of the same material,
having the following inscription:
"Revs. Sebastianus Rasles, natione Gallus, e' societate Jesu missionarus, per alliquot an-
nos Illinois et Huronibus premum evangelans, dunder per 34 arrnos Abcnaques, fide et
charitate Christi verus apostulus, periculis armorara interritus, se pro suis ovibus movi para-
turn ssepius testificans inter arma et ctedes ac Pagi Narantsouack (Norridgewock) et Eccle-
piae surac minus, hock in ipso loco cecidit tandem optimus pastor, die 23d Augustii, Ann.
Dom. 1724.
Ipsi et filiis in Cheristi defunctis, monumenturn hoe posuit Benedictus Fenwick, Episco-
pus Bostoniensis, dedi caoit que die 23d Augustii, A. D. 1833, A. M. D. G."
This monument was thrown down by mischievous persons, in 1835,
but was immediately re-erected by contributions of citizens of the
town, and stood till 1849, when it was again thrown down by persons
actuated by a spirit to be deplored in a civilized community. The
first of the following accounts of the destruction of the Norridgewock
is from Mr. Drake's Hist, of the North American Indians :
"Determined on destroying this assemblage of Indians, which was the head
quarters of the whole eastern country, at this time, the English, two years after,
1724, sent out a force, consisting of 208 men and three Mohawk Indians, under
Capts. Moulton, Harman, and Bourne, to humble them. They came upon the village,
the 23d August, when there was not a man in arms to oppose them. They had
left 40 of their men at Teconet Falls, which is now within the town of Winslow,
upon the Kennebec, and about two miles below Waterville College, upon the op
posite side of the river. The English had divided themselves into three squad
rons : 80 under Harman, proceeded by a circuitous route, thinking to surprise
some in their corn fields, while Moulton, with 80 more, proceeded directly for the
village, which, being surrounded by trees, could not be seen until they were close
upon it. All were in their wigwams, and the English advanced slowly and in
perfect silence. When pretty near, an Indian came out of his wigwam, and, ac
cidentally discovering the English, ran in and seized his gun, and giving the war-
hoop, in a few minutes the warriors were all in arms, and advancing to meet them.
Moulton ordered his men not to fire until the Indians had made the first discharge.
This order was obeyed, and, as he expected, they overshot the English, who then
142 MAINE.
fired upon them, in their turn, and did great execution. When the Indians had
given another volley, they fled with great precipitation to the river, whither the
chief of their women and children had also fled during the fight. Some of the
English pursued and killed many of them in the river, and others fell to pillaging
and burning the village. Mogg disdained to fly with the rest, but kept possession
of a wigwam, from which he fired upon the pillagers. In one of his discharges
he killed a Mohawk, whose brother observing it, rushed upon and killed him; and
thus ended the strife. There were about 60 warriors in the place, about one half
of whom were killed.
The famous Rasle shut himself up in his house, from which he fired upon the
English; and, having wounded one, Lieut. Jaques, of Newburv, burst open the
door, and shot him through the head ; although Moulton had given orders that
none should kill him. He had an English boy with him, about 14 years old, who
had been taken some time before from the frontiers, and whom the English re
ported Rasle was about to kill. Great brutality and ferocity are chargeable to the
English in this affair according to their own account; such as killing women and
children, and scalping and mangling the body of Father Rasle."
Father Sebastian Halle is the most conspicuous of all the Jesuit
missionaries who labored among the northern Indians. He estab
lished his abode at Narantsouak, now Norridgewock. From this
place the distance was five days of laborious travel, and it was a jour
ney of two days to the dwellings of the English. The country around
in every direction was a wilderness inhabited only by savages. Here
Ralle determined to consecrate his life to the political and spiritual
services, which he had been appointed to surrender. He began by
building a church supplied with all the decorations, etc., calculated to
impress the imagination in the worship of the Catholic faith.
Above the village at the head of the rapid of the Kennebec, was a chapel dedi
cated to the most holy virgin, in which her image in relief demanded the prayers
of the savages as they passed upward to the chase, and below where the watera
rested on their quiet level, another chapel stood, dedicated to the guardian angel
of the tribe. The women contended with a holy emulation in the embellishment
of their sanctuary, by all the finery they possessed, and the chapels and the church
were illuminated by brilliant lights from the wax of the bayberries, gathered upon
the islands of the sea: 40 youths in cassocks and surplices, officiated in perform
ing the solemn functions around the altar. Such was the machinery of the holy
office, among the rude people at Narantsouak; and multitudinous processions,
symbolical images, paintings and mysterious rites were combined to arrest the eye
and catch the fancy of the savage neophytes. Every day was introduced by the
performance of mass, and the evening was ushered in by prayer in their native
tongue, in which their zeal was excited by the chanting and recitation in which
they took part, while the frequent exhortations of the father allowed no distraction
of their attention, no suspension of their piety, and no back slidings in their faith.
Dictator of the consciences of his flock, where no envious rival, no jealous com
petitor, no heretical teacher could break into the fold, the temporal concerns of
their mortal welfare could not be kept from his hands; and they looked to him for
advice at the council fire, on the policy and arrangements for war, not less than
for edification in the principles of the religion of peace.
"In the manuscript dictionary of the Norridgewock language compiled by
Ralle" (says Gov. Lincoln), 1 found a loose scrap of paper from which 1 present
a short extract, strikingly descriptive of his habits and temper. " Here I am,"
says he, '' in a cabin in the woods, on the borders of the sea, where 1 find both
crosses and religious observances among the Indians. At the dawn of the morn
ing, 1 say the mass in a chapel made of the branches of the fir tree. The residue
of the day I spend in visiting and consoling the savages — a severe affliction to see
so many famished persons, without being able to relieve their hunger."
"Father Ralle never abandoned the Indians. He attended them in all their ex-
MAINE.
148
pcditions, and kept them in regular observance of their religious observances. In
a letter to his brother, written in 1723, in which he describes most particularly
his own habits of life, and relates many interesting particulars of his own tribe,
he seems to entertain a mournful anticipation of the fate which, through the ha
tred of the English, was soon to befall him. During the next year, a party of those
enemies, with some allied Indians, marched to attack the village of Narantsouak.
It was surrounded by a thicket of brush, and the first intelligence of the incursion
was conveyed to the unsuspecting inhabitants by the report of musketry and the
balls of the enemy whizzing through their cabins. Fifty only of the warriors were
at home; but they seized their arms to withstand their enemies, while the women
and children should make their escape. Father Ralle, alarmed by the tumult,
also departed from his cabin, but as soon as he appeared, a great cry was raised,
and a volley of musketry laid him dead at the foot of the cross he had planted in
the village. Seven of the savages had surrounded him to protect his life; but
they were all killed by his side. The others fled, but 30 of their number were
slain, and 14 wounded, and the church and cabins were given to the flames. The
Narantsouaks, on the next day, returned to the desolated place of their ancient
abode, to lament over the remains of their deceased and much loved missionary,
and to pay them the last offices of their affection and respect. They buried him
on the spot where the altar stood, at which he had so often celebrated the rites of
his faith. Thus terminated the painful mission of this remarkable man, which
had lasted thirty-seven years amidst hunger, fatigue, privation, and danger in the
wilderness."
South-west view of Bangor.
[The above shows the appearance of Bangor as it is approached by the railroad from Boston and Port
land ; the first spire on the left is that of the Unitarian Church ; the next, prominent building to the right
is the Bangor House. The railroad depot appears below the spires. On the extreme right are seen the town
house and the Congregational Church in Brewer, on the opposite side of the Penobscot, eastward of the
bridge. The Catholic Cathedral, one of the most prominent objects in the city when approached from th»
south, appears a little to the left from the bridge. At some particular seasons the whole channel of the
river hero is almost literally covered with shipping.]
BANGOR, a city and port of entry, is at the head of navigation on
the west side of the Penobscot River, about 60 miles from its mouth ;
66 miles E. N. E. from Augusta, 126 N. E. from Portland, and 231
N. E. from Boston. It is situated on both sides of the Kenduskeay,
a stream some 200 yards wide, which here enters the Penobscot about
100 rods below the bridge to Brewer. The harbor at and below the
144 MAINE.
bridge is 90 rods in width, and at high tide, which rises here 10 feet,
is of sufficient depth for vessels of the largest size.
Bangor is one of the greatest lumber depots in the world. On the
Penobscot River and its tributary branches above the town, are be
tween 300 and 400 saw mills, capable of cutting an immense amount
of lumber annually, all of which, except what is used in building, must
be shipped at Bangor. Nearly 2000 vessels are annually employed
in the lumber trade during the season of navigation, which usually
continues eight or nine months in the year. Bangor is also engaged
in foreign commerce, and has several extensive manufacturing estab
lishments, among which are foundries, machine shops, furniture, saw
ing and planing mills, etc. The city is well built, containing 10 or 12
churches, 13 banks, a custom house, a fine granite building, two acad
emies, and the buildings of the Bangor Theological Seminary, beau
tifully situated in the most elevated part of the city. Population in
1820,1,221; in 1830, 2,863; 1840, 8,627; 1850, 14,432; now about
17,000.
Bangor was originally called the Kenduskeag Plantation, from the stream which
passes through it. It was incorporated a town in 1791. Stephen Bussell and his
family, who passed the winter of 1769 about half a mile above Kenduskeag Point,
near the Penobscot, is considered to be the first settler of the place. He was fol
lowed in the spring by his father and Caleb Goodwin. The next year (1771),
Thos. Howard, Simon Crosby, Jacob Dennet, John and Hugh Smart, removed into
the place; and in 1772, there were in the settlement 12 families. The first cler
gyman was the Rev. Seth Noble. He was one of the whig refugees who fled in
1776, with Col. Eddy, from Nova Scotia. He was installed under an oak tree, and
continued with the people hero about 12 years. Being entrusted with an agency
in procuring the incorporation of the town, he was directed by the plantation to
have Sunbury inserted in the act as appropriate to the pleasant appearance of the
place. "But," says Mr. Williamson, in his History of Maine, "the name dis
pleased him, or escaped his recollection; for when the legislative committee in
quired what the town should be called, he, being passionately fond of the church-
tune Bangor, told them to insert that name."
From 1774 to 1779, Dr. John Herbert was an exhorter in religious meetings, and
in winters taught a school. The first meeting house in Bangor was built in 1821-2,
for the only religious society in the place, over which the Rev. Harvey Loomis
was settled in 1811. This excellent and universally beloved man preached to this
society until Jan. 2, 1825, when he died suddenly in the pulpit, before the com
mencement of the forenoon services. It was a remarkable fact, that he had se
lected for his text the following passage of scripture : u This year tliou slialt *urely
die.11 The Unitarian, Baptist and Methodist houses of worship were commenced
in 1828, and completed in that and the following year. The Maine Charity School,
or Theological Seminary, incorporated in 1814, and opened in Hampden in 1816,
was afterward removed to Bangor, and a classical school connected with it. The
first printing office was established by Peter Edes, in the autumn of 1815. Ban
gor was first represented in the general court in 1806, by James Thomas. The
postoffice was established in 1800, and the first bank in 1818.
The following cut shows the appearance of the village of the Penob
scot Indians, as seen from near the railroad bridge, some 40 or 50 rods
above the saw mills at the falls on the Penobscot. The village, called
Indian Old Town, is 12 miles north of Bangor, on an island in the Pe
nobscot, containing about 350 acres of rich land. The Indian Catholic
Church appears on the right, before which is a wooden cross, on which
is the following passage : " Rogo — ut omnes unum sint, Joan XVII"
MAINE.
145
The Catholic clergyman from Bangor officiates in the church once in
two or three weeks. The building on the left, by the flag staff, is
called the " Hall where the Indians occasionally perform their ancient
dances in the native style." The Kennebec River, seen on the left, is
navigable for steamboats to the falls, about 24 miles above this point.
There are about 50 dwellings on the island, which is the residence of
most of the tribe, which number in all about 450 souls. The Indian
la!i<Tua^e is in use among themselves, but when with the whites, they
ccnverse in English. Some of the men assist in the lumbering busi
ness, some hunt; and basket making is carried on by the women. A
school is taught in the village, and the state appropriates $350 annu
ally for their benefit.
Southern view of Indian Old Town.
The Penobscot Indians, or Tarrantines, as they have been called,
were neutrals in the revolutionary war ; in return, Massachusetts pro
tected them, and prohibited all trespasses on their lands, for six miles
in width on each side of the Penobscot from the head of the tide up
ward. Since that period, most of these lands have been purchased
by state authorities. " In later years," says Mr. Williamson, in his
History of Maine, published in 1832, " Indian Old Town has been al
together the place of their greatest resort. At the close of the rev
olution, the village contained between 40 and 50 wigwams. In Sep
tember, 1816, there were about 25, and in May, 1823, there were only
15 or 16 left standing ; the chapel dilapidated ; the porch and bell
down, since rebuilt."
"In 1816, the Penobscot tribe at Old Town, having lost its sachem, entered
upon the election of another. It was some months before they could agree upon
a successor, although it is their custom to elect a near relation of the deceased.
At length party spirit having run unreasonably high, their priest, who is a
Roman Catholic, interfered, and they forsook the rival candidates, and elected
John Aitteon. This man, it is said, was a descendant of Baron de Saint Castiens.
The induction into office took place 19th Sept., 1S16. At the same time John Nep-
146 MAINE.
tune was constituted his lieutenant, and Capt. Francis and another were confirmed
as chief captains.
A specimen of modern oratory among these Indians is given by Mr. Williamson,
who heard it, in his History of Maine. It was made in a court, by John Neptune,
in extenuation of the murder of one Knight, by Peol Susup. The case was nearly
as follows : In the evening of 28th June, 1816, this Indian was intoxicated, and at
the tavern of said Knight, at Bangor (whether he had procured liquor there with
which to intoxicate himself, we are not informed), and being noisy and turbulent,
Knight endeavored to expel him from his house. Having thrust him out of the door,
he endeavored to drive him away, and in the attempt was stabbed, and immedi
ately died. On his arrest, Susup acknowledged his guilt, but said he was in liquor,
and that Knight abused him, or he had not done it. Being brought to trial in
June, the next year, at Castine, by advice of counsel, he pleaded not guilty ; and
after a day spent in his trial, a verdict was rendered according to the defense set
up, manslaughter. Susup had a wife and several children ; four of whom, with
their mother, were present, as were many other Indians from St. Johns and Pas
samaquoddy, beside a great crowd of whites.
After sentence was declared, Susup was asked by the court if he had anything
to say for himself; to which he replied, ' JOHN NEPTUNE will speak for me.' Nep
tune rose up, and, having advanced toward the judges, deliberately said, in English :
'You know your people do my Indians great deal wrong. They abuse them
very much — yes, they murder them; then they walk right off — nobody touches
them. This makes my heart burn. Well, then my Indians say, we will go kill
your very bad and wicked men. No, 1 tell 'em, never do that thing, we are broth
ers. Some time ago a very bad man about Boston, shot an Indian dead. Your
people said, surely he should die, but it was not so. In the great prison house he
eats and lives to this day. Certainly he never dies for killing Indian. My broth
ers say let that bloody man go free — Peol Susup too. So we wish. Hope fills the
hearts of us all — peace is good. These, my Indians, love it well. They smile
under its shade. The white men and red men must be always friends. The
Great Spirit is our father — I speak what I feel.'
Susup was sentenced to another year's imprisonment, and required to find sure
ties for keeping the peace two years, in the penal sum of $500 ; when John Nep
tune, Squire Jo Merry Neptune, of his own tribe, Capt. Solmond, from Passama-
quoddy, and Capt. Jo Tomer, from the River St. Johns, became his sureties in the
cognizance."
Fryeburg, in Oxford county, is situted on both sides of Saco River,
on the line of New Hampshire, 47 miles N. W. from Portland. Here
was the Indian village, Pegwacket, near which is LovewelPs Pond,
which is memorable as being the scene of a most bloody conflict with
the Indians under Paugus, and 38 men under Capt. Lovewell, of Dun-
stable, Mass., in which both commanders were killed, and most of
their men either killed or wounded, on the 8th of May, 0. S. (cor
responding with May 19th, N. S.), 1725. At this period the barbarous
murders almost daily committed by the Indians upon the defenseless
frontier inhabitants, caused the general court of Massachusetts to offer
£100 for every Indian's scalp. Among the excursions of Capt. Love-
well, previous to that in which he was killed, was one with a party of
40 of his men, when he surprised and killed 10 Indians in Wakefield,
N. H. Their scalps were taken to Boston, for which £1000 was re
ceived. Capt. Lovewell started on his last expedition from Dunsta-
ble, with 46 volunteers. His two lieutenants were Josiah Farwell and
Jonathan Robbins ; his ensigns, John Harwood and Seth Wyman ; his
chaplain, Jonathan Frye, and his chief pilot, Toby, an Indian. Be
fore he reached Pegwacket, his force was reduced to thirty-four, in-
MAINE.
147
eluding himself. On the evening of May 7th, they encamped at the
western corner of the pond, and on the next morning marched for
ward in search of the Indians. They were waylaid by upward of 60
Indians, commanded by Paugus, whose name was a terror on the fron
tiers. The following account of the fierce battle which ensued, called
" LoveweWs FigUi" is from Williamson's History of Maine :
"It was about ten in the morning when they arrived back, and the moment they
reached the spot, the Indians rose in front and rear, and ran, three or four deep,
toward them with guns presented, raising a horrid yell. Lovewell and his com
panions received the shock with entire firmness, and facing the enemy, presented
their guns and rushed forward. When they had approached within a few yards
of each other, they fired on both sides — the Indians were shot in considerable
numbers ; yet the most of our men escaped the first fire, and drove their foes sev
eral rods. Turning, they renewed the charge with great spirit and bravery; and
at one time some of the combatants were within twice the length of each other's
guns — the Indians constantly raising hideous whoops, and the English frequent
shouts and cheers. Three rounds were fired on each side, in which Capt. Love-
well and eight of his men were killed, and Lieut. Farwell and two others were
wounded. Several more of the enemy fell, yet being superior in number, they
endeavored to surround our men ; when, at the word given for a retreat, the Eng
lish retired in great order, two or three rods to the pond. In this forlorn place
they wore compelled to take their station. On their right was the mouth of Bat
tle Brook; on their left was a point of rocks, which extended into the water; their
front was partly sheltered by a few pine trees standing on a sandy beach, partly
covered by a deep bog, and partly uncovered ; and the pond was in the rear.
Here they maintained the fight upward of eight hours, with heroic resolution,
against a much more numerous force ; being at frequent intervals severely engaged
in front and flank, and so completely in the power of the enemy that, had he made
the best use of his advantage, the whole company must either have been killed or
obliged to surrender at discretion.
At one time a group of savages appeared by their strange gestures to be en
gaged in a powow ; when Ensign Wyman, secretly approaching them, shot the
chief actor and dispersed them. Some of the Indians, holding up ropes or cords
toward our men, exclaimed, 'will you have quarter ?' 'Yes,' said they, 'at the
muzzles of our guns.' Thoy were determined to meet a speedy and honorable
death, rather than expire in torture, or in a lingering captivity. Mr. Frye, the
chaplain, who was a young man greatly beloved for his piety and excellence,
fought with undaunted courage till the middle of the afternoon, when he received
a wound which proved to be mortal, and fell; yet was he afterward heard in aud
ible prayer several times, for the success and preservation of his surviving com
panions. As a few of them and of the Indians had some previous acquaintance,
they bespoke each other several times during the engagement. John Chamber
lain, a soldier, and Paugus, a chief, both men of undaunted courage and large of
Btature, finding their guns too foul for proper use, accidently stepped down, at the
same moment, to wash them at the brink of the pond. Standing not far apart,
they exchanged a few defying words, while they without waste of time washed
their guns; then the chief, as he forced down the bullet, called out to his foe —
' Quick, me kill you now.' ' May be not,1 said Chamberlain, whose gun, by priming
itself, gave him an advantage, and he sent the warrior in an instant to his long
home.
This was one of the most desperate and hard-fought battles which the English
ever had with the Indians. Several discharged their guns more than 20 times.
Retreat was impracticable, and surrender never mentioned. The brave men fought
through the day without respite or a morsel of sustenance. By an unremitting
and well directed fire so long a time, the number of the savages was manifestly
thinned — as their whoops and halloes became fainter and fainter till just before
dark, when they quitted the advantageous ground, carrying off their slain and
wounded, yet leaving the dead bodies of Lovewell and his men unscalped. The
10
148 MAINE.
loss sustained by the Indians has been estimated variously, and by some too high.
Their killed and disabled, however, were fully equal in number to the entire force
of the English engaged in the action ; Messrs. Penhallow and Symmes, two authen
tic writers, representing the Indians to have lost in the battle of Pegwacket more
than 40 lives, possibly 50. Penhallow says also, '40 were said to be killed, and
18 more died of their wounds.' The shattered company of Lovewell's Spartan
companions, collecting together in the evening, so far as they were able, found
there were 10 already dead, nine uninjured, one missing, and 14 wounded, five of
whom afterward died."
"It was inexpressibly painful to leave any of their dying associates behind. But Ensign
Robbins and Jacob Usher could not be removed. Robbins desired them to lay his gun by
him charged, that he might be able to kill one more, if the savage foe should return before
his death. Solomon Kies, exhausted with fatigue, and faint through loss of blood from
three wounds, told his ensign in the heat of battle he was a dying man j yet, if possible, I
will (said he) get to a place where the Indians shall never be gratified with mangling my
lifeless remains. Hence, with difficulty, he crept to the pond, and rolled himself into a
birchen canoe, providentially found there; and while he lay, unable to paddle, and almost
senseless, his slender bark drifted toward the side of the pond nearest the stockaded fort, to
which he at last attained.
After the rising of the moon, the condition of the survivors, as they thought, rendered a
longer delay imprudent, so much as to pay the last sad tribute of respect to the dead ; and
therefore, twenty of them leaving the fatal spot, directed their inarch toward the fort.
Eight were lame or full of anguish from their wounds ; and all of them haying lost their
knapsacks and provisions in the morning, and taken no refreshments, as mentioned, were
still without food, blankets, tents or the means of dressing a wound. When Farwell, the
lieutenant, Frye, the chaplain, and two soldiers, Davis and Jones, had traveled about a mile
and a half, they sunk down, unable to go another step. They however encouraged the
others to proceed, in hopes of ultimate relief, possibly from their return and help ; and after
reviving, traveled together at short stages several days. At length, Frye, reclining upon
the ground, said to his friends, ' I shall never rise more; linger no longer for me; should you by
Divine favor ever arrive home, tell mi/ father, though I expect in a few hours to be in eternity, I
fear not to die.' Jones there leaving them, proceeded down the Kiver Saco to Biddeford,
subsisting upon wild vegetables, cranberries, and the inner bark of trees j being on his ar
rival emaciated to a, skeleton, from the loss of blood, the want of food, and the putrefaction
of his wounds. Farwell, who was deservedly applauded in a high degree for his heroic con
duct, being left on the tenth day by Davis, perished in the woods within a few miles of the
fort ; Davis himself being the only one of the four who reached it. Elias Barron, one of
the wounded, was lost about Ossipee River, and nothing more heard of him.
To all the survivors, the night after they left the battle ground, was altogether too dread
ful to admit of an adequate description. Deprived of strength, rest and guides, they felt
that every step they took along the untrodden wilderness, was attended by the echoing
whoops of savages, and the shadows of death. In the morning they divided into three
bands, through fear of making a track to be traced by their inveterate enemies ; and, indeed,
one party of them was pursued a considerable distance by three Indians, who occasionally
showed themselves. After traveling three or four clays, a distance of twenty miles in direct
course, sixteen arrived at the fort : when, to their great disappointment, they found it de
serted. It seemed that in the beginning of the action, the man missing, whose name has
not been thought worthy to be transmitted to posterity, quitted the field, and fleeing thither,
gave a frightful account of the battle, stating that Lovewell and most of his brave compan
ions were killed, and the whole company defeated. Believing the story, they made the best
of their way home. They left, however, a quantity of bread and pork, which gave season
able relief and renovated spirits to the returning sufferers.
From this place they endeavored to proceed homeward ; and after enduring the most se
vere famine and hardships, they arrived, one after another, at the outer settlements — where
they met with every demonstration of joy. They were afterward handsomely rewarded for
their valor and sufferings, and a generous provision was likewise made for the widows and
children of the slain.
Such were the particulars of ' Lovewell's memorable fight,' or ' the battle of Pegwacket,'
which broke the heart and spirit of the Sokokis natives. In a short time they withdrew,
and resided no more in those pleasant and ancient dwelling places, until peace. After this
event, the star of the tribe, pale and declining, gradually settled in darkness."
The following lines are extracted from a ballad written on this oc
casion, in the style of the ancient Chevy Chase, by some author whose
name does not appear. It is published in the N. H. Collections :
MAINE.
149
'Twas Paugus led the Pequ'k't tribe:
As runs the fox, would Paugus run ;
As howls the wild wolf, would he howl;
A huge bear-skin had Paugus on.
But Chamberlain, of Dunstable,
One whom a savage ne'er shall slay,
Met Paugus by the water-side,
And shot him dead upon that day.
What time the noble Lovewell came,
With fifty men from Dunstable,
The cruel Pequ'k't tribe to tame,
With arms and bloodshed terrible.
With Lovewell brave John Harwood came ;
From wife and babes 'twas hard to part;
Young Harwood took her by the hand,
And bound the weeper to his heart.
Thus left young Harwood, babe and wife;
With accent wild she bade adieu :
It grieved those lovers much to part,
So fond and fair, so kind and true.
John Harwood died all bathed in blood,
When he had fought till set of day;
And many more we may not name,
Fell in that bloody battle fray.
Seth Wyman, who in Woburn lived,
A marksman he of courage true,
Shot the first Indian whom they saw ;
Sheer through his heart the bullet flew.
Anon, there eighty Indians rose,
Who'd hid themselves in ambush dread ;
Their knives they shook, their guns they
aimed,
The famous Paugus at their head.
John Lovewell, captain of the band,
His sword he waved that glittered bright,
For the last time he cheered his men,
And led them onward to the fight.
" Fight on, fight on," brave Lovewell said;
" Fight on, while Heaven shall give you
breath!"
An Indian ball then pierced him through,
And Lovewell closed his eyes in death.
The chaplain's name was Jonathan Frye ;
In Andover his father dwelt,
And oft with Lovewell's men he'd prayed.
Before the mortal wound he felt.
A man was he of comely form,
Polished and brave, well learnt and kind ;
Old Harvard's learned halls he left,
Far in the wilds a grave to find.
Ah ! now his blood-red arm he lifts,
His closing lids he tries to raise ;
And speak once more before he dies,
In supplication and in praise.
" Come hither, Farwell," said young Frye,
" You see that I'm about to die ;
Now for the love I bear to you,
When cold in death my bones shall lie,
" Go thou and see my parents dear,
And tell them you stood by me here;
Console them when they cry, Alas 1
And wipe away the falling tear."
Good heav'ns ! they dance the powow dance,
What horrid yells the forest fill !
The grim bear crouches in his den,
The eagle seeks the distant hill.
Then did the crimson streams, that flowed,
Seem like the waters of the brook,
That brightly shine, that loudly dash,
Far down the cliffs of Agiochook.
With foosteps slow shall travelers go,
Where Lovewell's pond shines clear and
bright,
And mark the place where those are laid,
Who fell in Lovewell's bloody fight.
Ah ! many a wife shall rend her hair,
And many a child cry, ''Woe is me,"
When messengers the news shall bear,
Of Lovewell's dear-bought victory.
Old men shall shake their heads, and say
" Sad was the hour and terrible,
When Lovewell, brave, 'gainst Paugus
went,
With fifty men from Dunstable."
BATH, the capitol of Sadagahoc county, city and port of entry, is
on the west bank of the Kennebec, 12 miles from the ocean, 32 miles
S. from Augusta, 36 N. E. from Portland, and 147 N. E. from Bos
ton. The city extends upward of two miles along the bank of the
river, and about one mile back. The surface is uneven and rocky,
and the streets somewhat adapted to its inequalities. The town is
well built, has 10 churches, five banks, a handsome Custom House
just erected, and several other elegant public buildings. The schools
are graded, and are among the best in the state. The population is
about 12,000. The manufactures are such as relate chiefly to ship
building, which, in this place, is an important business, being sur
passed only by New York, Boston, and Philadelphia. In 1854, 56
ships and 13 other vessels (58,454 tuns) were built in the district, be
ing the greatest amount of shipping constructed in any district in the
United States, except those of Boston and New York. Bath is at the
150 MAINE.
head of large navigation on the river, which is here about three
fourths of a mile wide, having an average depth of eight fathoms. It
is connected with the Kermebec and Portland Railroad, by a branch
road to Brunswick 12 miles distant.
9
View of Bath from the eastern side of the Kennebec.
[The engraving shows the appearance of the central part of Bath, as viewed from the ferry on the Wool
wich side of the Kennebec. On the left is seen the terminus of the branch railroad. The Custom House,
Universalist Church, Sagndahoc House, and Central Church, appear in the central part of the engraving.]
Bath was incorporated, as a town, in 1781, and as a city in 1841.
The place was first bought of Robin Hood, an Indian sachem, about
the year 1665, by the Rev. Robert Gutch, an Episcopal clergyman,
for a quantity of corn and some trinkets. Mr. Gutch settled on the
territory, and occasionally preached on Arrowseag Island, opposite
the city: he was eventually drowned in crossing the river. Com
merce began with the West Indies, by bartering lumber for their pro
duce. After the depression caused by the embargo of 1807-8, and
the war of 1812, business revived, and the merchants began to in
crease in wealth. About the year 1818, they built freighting ships,
which since has become one great cause of the wealth and prosperity
of the city.
East-port, the easternmost town in the United States, is on the S. E.
part of M6ose Island, and is the smallest town in the state, having an
area of less than 2,000 acres. It is 234 miles N. E. from Portland,
Lat. 44° 54' N., Long. 66° 56' W. It contains six churches, about
100 stores and warehouses compactly built, a fine Custom House
built at an expense of $35,000 ; and upon the hill in the midst is Fort
Sullivan, usually garrisoned by a company of U. S. Artillery. The
town has an excellent school system, and a public library of about
1,700 volumes. A covered bridge 1,200 feet long connects it with
the main land at Perry, and a ferry with Lubec, three miles distant.
MAINE.
The people are chiefly engaged in commercial pursuits ; and they
have a considerable trade with the adjoining British Provinces.
Many vessels are built and owned here, and the fisheries are exten
sively carried on. The harbor is remarkable for its high tides, which
usually rise 25 feet, thereby preventing the accumulation of ice. The
population is about 4,000.
Eastport was incorporated a town in 1798, it comprised, at that
time, Moose Island, Dudleys, Frederic, Burnt and Patmos Islands,
and township Number Eight, on the Bay of Fundy. But when Lubec
was incorporated, there was left to Eastport only the islands: the
chief of these being Moose Island, on which the town is built. This
island is about five miles long ; breadth from one mile to one eighth
of a mile. It was settled about 1780, and its growth was slow, there
being, in 1790, only 244 inhabitants. In 1820, there were 125 dwell
ings, 75 stores and three churches. A church was organized in 1818,
and in 1820, Rev. Andrew Bigelow, an evangelist, dwelt at Eastport, and
preached to the people. A postoffice was established here in 1802. The
first representative to the general court, was Oliver Shead, Esq., 1807.
"On July 5, 1814, a small British expedition secretly dispatched from Halifax,
was joined by a fleet from Bermuda, consisting of the Ramilies a 74, Commodore
Hardy, the Martin sloop-of-war, the brig Borer — the Breanie — the Terror, a bomb-
ehip — and several transports having a large body of troops on board, commanded
by Com. Pilkington, arrived abreast of Eastport, on the llth of the month, when
the commodore demanded a surrender of the fort, allowing only five minutes for
an answer.* Maj. Putnam replied that the fort would be defended against any force
whatever, and that he was prepared to meet an assault. By the entreaty of the inhab
itants, he was reluctantly induced to strike his flag without making any resistance.
By the terms of capitulation, all the public property, consisting of four 18
pounders, two sixes, and the munitions of war, were delivered up, and the soldiers
surrendering were put on board of the enemy's prison ship — the five commissioned
officers were admitted to the parol, and all private rights of the inhabitants were
to be respected. Upward of 1,000 troops, principally infantry and a battalion of
artillery, with women and children, were set on shore by means of barges. About
50 or 60 pieces of cannon were also landed; possession was taken of the fort, and
the British flag immediately hoisted. Prizes were made of several vessels; large
quantities of goods were seized for breach of blockade; and all property belong
ing to other persons than the inhabitants of Eastport, was forfeited.
The next day, Lieut. Col. Fitzherbert sent a letter from St. Andrews to Gen.
Brewer, of Kobbinston, the commander of the militia in Washington County,
stating, that by order of Maj. Gen. Sir John C. Sherbrook, that the object of the
British government was to ' obtain possession of the islands in Passamaqvoddy
Bay, as being within the British boundary line; that there was no design to
carry on offensive operations against the people resident on the main, unless their
conduct should provoke severities,' etc. The Commanders Hardy and Pilkington,
on the 14th, also issued a proclamation in the name of the prince regent, declar
ing that the municipal laws of the American government, for the peace and tran
quillity of the inhabitants, would remain in force; and commanding them all to
assemble at the school-house in Eastport, on the 16th, and take the oath of alle
giance to his Britannic majesty, or in seven days depart the islands. About two
thirds of the inhabitants reluctantly submitted to the requirement. Batteries
were now erected; between 40 and 50 cannon were mounted, a deputy collector
of the customs appointed, and about 800 troops being left upon the island, tho
squadron departed."*
* Williamson's Hist, of Maine.
152 MAINE.
Castine is a village on the east side of Penobscot Bay, at the mouth
of Penobscot River, 34 miles south from Bangor, 78 from Augusta
and 118 north-east from Portland. It was the shire or chief town of
Hancock county from 1789 to 1838, when the courts were removed
to Ellsworth. It was first occupied by English settlers in 1760. It
was held by the British in both wars with the United States.
Castine originally bore the name of a resident Frenchman, called
"Major Biguyduce" (pronounced Bagaduce). It was taken from
Penobscot, and first embraced, besides, the peninsular portion of that
town which is now a part of Brooksville. Here was established the
trading-house of the Plymouth Colony in 1626; here were the head
quarters and fort of D'Aulney from 1640 to 1648 ; here the Baron
Castine lived for more than 30 years, and here was the British garri
son from 1779 to 1783. The United States have a considerable for
tification on the peninsula.
"The Baron Castine, from whom the town derived its name, was a French
officer of distinction. Taking offense at some treatment he received from those in
power, it is said he ' threw himself upon the savages.' To French writers his
conduct was a mystery; and to the colonists a prodigy. His settled abode was
the peninsula upon which D'Aulney had resided, and where he found means to
erect a commodious house for trade, and fora habitation. He was a liberal Catholic,
though devout and punctilious in the rites of that faith: he usually had several
Jesuit missionaries in his train devoted to the 'holy cause.' He learned to speak
with ease the Indian language; he made numerous presents and opened a valuable
trade with the Indians. He taught the men the use of the gun, and some of the
arts of war; and being a man of fascinating manners, he attained a complete as
cendency over the tribe. In the language of one writer, they looked upon him as
'their tutelar God.' He conformed himself in all respects to the customs and
manners of the natives. He married four or five Tarrantine wives, one of whom
was the daughter of the Indian Sagamore tribe. The governors of New England
and of Canada, apprised of his influence and wealth, were, for obvious reasons, the
courtiers of his friendship and favor."
Belfast is a port of entry and the shiretown of Waldo county, 30
miles south from Bangor, 110 east from Portland, 40 east from Au
gusta, and 12 across the bay, west from Castine. The harbor is ca
pacious, deep, and easy of access, and never seriously obstructed by
ice. Commerce and ship-building constitute the principal business of
the place, and a great amount of tunnage is annually launched. The
fisheries employ a large number of men and vessels. The compact
part of the town is somewhat irregularly built, but it has an elevated
and conspicuous situation. It contains 6 churches. Many of the
streets are adorned with trees, and the private houses indicate taste
and wealth. Population about 5,000.
Belfast received its name in accordance with the request of an early
settler, from his native place in Ireland. The township being in the
limits of the Waldo patent, was purchased of the proprietors in 1765,
by a company of 52 associates, at the low price of twenty cents by
the acre. The town was incorporated in 1773, and continued to in
crease until some time in the revolutionary war, when the settlers were
obliged to abandon their homes in consequence of the rapacity and
cruelty of the enemy ; nor did they return until two years after the
MAINE.
153
peace. Rev. Ebcnczer Price, the first settled minister, was ordained
in 1796, when it contained only 90 families and 12 framed houses.
Mount Desert Rock. Light House, and Mountain.
The engraving annexed is from one published in the " American Scenery" some years since. It shows
the Mount Desert Eock, with its Light House, etc., about 12 miles from the main land. Mt. Desert ap
pears in the distance.]
The Island of Mount Desert with four smaller islands, was incor
porated as a town in 1789. It is the largest and most noted island
upon the seaboard of Maine. It contains 60,000 acres — two thirds of
which are mountainous and unfit for cultivation. This was the place
where the French missionaries, Biard and Masse, in 1609, formed a
temporary residence. A third part of the island is elevated into thir
teen connected and rugged mountains, covered with woods; at sea they
maybe seen at the distance of twenty leagues, and are remarkable for
being the first landmark for seamen, and for giving the French name,
Mom Deserts, to the island. It is said the Indians were much at
tached to this island, as upon the mountains were bears, raccoons,
foxes, etc.; in the marshes and natural meadows, beavers, otter and
musquash, and the waters, fin and shell fish. About the pool on the
west side, are the appearances of old settlements, where it is supposed
the French missionaries located themselves.
Frenchman .<? Bay, washing the eastern shore of Desert Island, contains many
good harbors and beautiful islands. It acquired its name from the following inci
dent: In the spring of 1604, after De Monts left his winter encampments on the
Island St. Croix, he and his company sailed westward: one of these, N. D'Aubri,
a French ecclesiastic, wishing to view the country was set ashore. Wandering
too far, his companions could not find him, and they were obliged to leave him
behind. For three weeks he suffered terrible apprehensions and extreme want;
and when almost in despair, the people of the same vessel, in touching in at some
place in the vicinity, providentially found and restored him to his companions,
interested and pleased with this story, which gave to these waters the name of
154 MAINE.
Frenchman s Bay, Mons. Cadillac obtained a irrant from the French king in 1601.
of a large tract of Innd lying on this bay, which was supposed to be within the
region of Acadia. These circumstances attracted the attention of the French
Jesuits to this particular section of the country.
Brunswick is situated on the south side of Androsscoggin River, SO
miles S. from Augusta, 27 N. E. from Portland, and 9 W. from Bath.
It lies at the head of tide-waters. Ship-building to a large extent is
carried on. Great quantities of timber and logs descend the Andross
coggin, arid lumber of all kinds is sent to Bath for exportation. This
river here, in about the distance of half a mile, has a fall of 50 feet,
affording immense hydraulic power; a large cotton and other
mills have been recently put in operation. It has 5 churches, and
about 5,000 inhabitants. Brunswick was incorporated a town in
1739.
Bowdoin College was first incorporated by the legislature of Massa
chusetts in 1794. Five townships of land were granted from the un
settled districts of Maine, as a foundation for the college. It received
its name from an early and distinguished governor of Massachusetts.
A munificent donation of money and lands of the estimated value of
§6,800, made by the Plon. James Bowdoin, was an additional means
of support. The college went into operation in 1801, when the Rev.
Joseph McKeen was elected the first president. At the first com
mencement, in 1806, there were eight graduates. President McKeen
died the next year, and was succeeded by the Rev. Jesse Appleton.
Mr. Appleton was succeeded by the Rev. William Allen, formerly
president of Dartmouth University, and author of the " Dictionary of
American Biography/' He was chosen in 1820, and continued in the
Northern view of Bowdoin College, Brunswick.
office for 20 years, with the exception of a small interval in 1831,
when he was removed by an act of the legislature, which had taken to
itself authority to control the affairs of the college, in consequence of
the cession of the old charter of Massachusetts to the new state of
Maine. The question was finally adjudicated in the circuit court of
tho United States, when a decision was given by Judge Story sus-
MAINE. 155
taining the rights of the college, which had been violated, and President
Allen was restored to his office.
The college buildings arc finely situated on an elevated plain, about
C1 O •/
one mile S. from the Androsscoggin, at the eastern extremity of the
village. Here, in September, 1802, the president and the professor of
languages, John Abbot, of Harvard, were installed : a platform erected
in the open air, in the grove of pines on the land, serving the purpose of
the yet unfinished Massachusetts Hall. "When this building was com
pleted, it was parlor, chapel, and hall for college uses; the president
being in one of the rooms with his family, and summoning his pupils to
morning and evening prayers in the temporary chapel on the first floor,
by striking with his cane on the staircase." The Maine Medical School,
founded in 1821, having 6 professors and lecturers, is attached to the
college. The principal college edifice has been several times burned,
but has been rebuilt. The college chapel, a granite structure, is in the
Romanesque style of architecture.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the grave
yard by the pine grove, back of the college buildings :
H. S. E. Quod mortale fuit vive admodum, Reverendi JOSKPHI McKiCEN, S. T. D.; aa
Collegii Bowdoinsis Proesidis primi natus est Octobo die XV°, Anno Dom. MDCCLVII, in
Republica Neo-Haritoniensi ubi primo in literis humanioribus institus, honores attigit
Academicos, Postea VERBI DIVINI ministerio apud Reverteam, in Republica Massachuset-
tensi, annos Septendecim frenue juxta, ac beninge perfunctus est. Novissime antem, Nos-
tratium omnium favore, ac praecipue doctorum priorumque collegium hie loci auspicato fun-
datum quinque, virannos ea qua par est, dignitate et sapientiafideliter feliciter rexit ; donee,
morbo Flydropico impeditus gulii die XV°, Ann. MDCCCVII in domino obdormivit, inge-
nio fuit sagaci judicio imprimis acerrimo, priscorum ternporuin graviate oeinulus et benevo-
Lentia omnino Christianus diotatem doctrinam artes optimasquoniam graviter excolebatipse
in aliis semper amavit, ct, quoad potuit auxit. M. S. monumentuui hoece luctus eheu 1 sol-
amen leve, at testimonium tamen. SENATOS ACADEMICOS P. L.
Huic tumulo mandantur reliquiaa REV. JKSSE APPLETON, S. T. D., mariti dcsideratissimi
optimi Amerique nostra? Academia secundi Presides — vir fuit ingenii accumine insignia
inoribus compositis ae aspeclu benigno majestatem quandam pro) se forente ; scd morti in-
exerabili nihil est sanctum. Eruditione magna inter literatorum principcs justissime col-
locaudus ; at Theologise scientiac lauream prascipue meritus ; bac enim quo homines aude-
am, cognovit et tcntavit. Integra side, disiplinaque salutari, duodecim annus, res Acadc-
micas Nimiis tandrem vigiliis laboribusque consumtus ad quieteui se contulit. Ita vixit ut
omncs, sic se moritutros esse optarem; tamen voluit inscribi, se salntcin sperasse in Jemi.
Natus est Novem'is, die 17 mo., Anno Domini MDCCLXXII, obit. Novem'is die 12 mo.,
Anno Domini MDCCCXIX.
Saco, the port of entry for York county, is situated on the east
bank of Saco River, six miles from its mouth, on the Eastern Rail
road, 13 miles S. W. from Portland, 73 S. W. from Augusta, and 94
K. E. from Boston. It is closely connected with Biddeford, on the
opposite side of the Saco, and the population of both villages is, jointly,
about 7000. Saco and Biddeford were formerly united ; the first was
settled in 1631, the last in 1630. The industry of these places is
chiefly directed to commerce and to cotton manufactures. The most
extensive corporation is the Saco Water Power Co., which has a cap
ital of $2,000,000. The York Manufacturing Co., and the Laconia
Co., each have a capital of $1,500,000, and employ more than 3000
hands. The falls of the Saco here, within a short distance, are 42
feet, which give great power for manufacturing purposes ; 10 or 12
cotton mills are now in operation, part on the Saco, and part on the
156 MAINE.
Biddeford side. Saco is a place of summer resort, and has all the
conveniences of a northern watering place, such as sea air, bathing,
fishing, beautiful scenery, etc.
York is an ancient maratime town, about 45 miles S. W. of Port
land, and nine N. E. from Portsmouth, N. H. The settlement of
the place commenced about 1630 ; it was then called Agamenticus,
from a mountain of that name in the north part of the town, and a
noted landmark. It was for many years the shiretown, and the place
of holding the courts, and keeping the records of the whole province,
until the counties of Cumberland and Lincoln were set off, in 1760.
Early in the morning of Feb. 5, 1792, at the signal of a gun fired, the town was
furiously assaulted at different places by a body of 200 or 300 Indians, led on by
several Canadian Frenchmen, all of whom, took up their march here on snow
shoes. The town was taken by surprise, and a scene of horrid carnage ensued.
About 75 of the inhabitants were killed, among whom was Mr. Dummer, a well
educated divine, and a pastor much beloved by his people. Nearly 100 of the in
habitants were carried off prisoners, among whom was Mrs. Dummer, the wife of
the minister, who being heart-broken and exhausted, soon sunk in death.
Wells was the next place attacked in this vicinity, and on the 10th of June,
1692, by about 500 French and Indians. It was defended by Capt. Converse and
15 soldiers, being all the fensible men in Storer's Garrison. Two sloops the day
previous had arrived in the harbor with military stores and provisions, having on
board 14 men. Immediately before the attack, the enemy were harrangued by
one in the habit of a gentleman, who assured them if they showed courage the
heretics must surrender.
" Instantly raising a hideous shout, they assailed the garrison with great fury,
and continued the assault during the day. A party constructed, in the meantime,
a breastwork of plank, hay, post and rails, over which the}^ fired upon the vessels,
secured only by a high bank, too far distant for men to spring on board. Being
only a dozen rods from the sloops, they were able to set them on tire several times
with fire-arrows; the crews extinguished the flames by wet mops upon the ends
of poles, and firing also with an aim and briskness which at length compelled them
to withdraw. One of the Indians, more daring than his fellows, then approached
with a plank fora shield, whom a marksman by a single shot brought to the ground.
Next, a kind of cart, rigged and trimmed, with a platform arid breastwork shot-
proof, was rolled forward from the woods till within fifteen yards of the sloops,
when one of the wheels sinking into the oozy earth, a Frenchman stepped to heave
it forward with his shoulder, and was shot dead; and another taking his place,
shared the same fate. The firing was continued upon the sloops, with the repeated
demand, surrender ! surrender ! which was only retorted by loud laughter. At
night they called out, ' Who s your commander ? ' 'We have,' said they, ' a great
many commanders.' ' You lie,' cried an Indian, 'you have none but Converse, and
well have him before morning.'
A scout of six men, sent by Capt. Converse toward Newichawannock, a few
hours before the enemy first appeared, returning about the dawn of day. being
Sabbath morning, were unwarily exposed, on their arrival, to certain death. But
with great presence of mind, the corporal loudly bespoke Capt. Converse, as if near
him, ' Wheel your men around the hill, and these few dogs are ours.' The enemy
supposing Converse was at their heels, hastily fled, and the scout entered the gates
unhurt.
The French and Indians now embodied themselves, and began to move with
great regularity toward the garrison, when one of the Captain's soldiers sighed a
surrender. 'Utter the word again,' said he, 'and you are a dead man; all lie
close ; fire not a gun until it will do execution.' As the besiegers with a firm step
approached, they gave three hideous shouts — one crying out in English, ' fire and
fall on. brave boys ' — and the whole body opening into three ranks, discharged
their guns all at once. A blaze of fire was returned, both from the small arms
MAINE.
and the cnnnon, some two or three of which were 12 pounders ; the women in the
garrison handing ammunition, and several times touching off the pieces at tho
enemy. It was a crisis of life or death, and the repulse was so complete that the
attack was not renewed.
One further attempt, however, was made upon the vessels, which were still lying
lashed together in the best posture possible for defense. The enemy now con
structed afire-float, 18 or 20 feet square, and filling it with combustibles, and set
ting them on fire, towed it as far as was safe, directly toward the sloops, in the
current of the tide, and left it to fleet in flames against them. To avoid or to ex
tinguish this burning magazine appeared impossible, and their fate inevitable.
But by the interposition of Divine Providence, as the anxious mariners viewed it,
a fresh counter breeze was breathed upon them, which drove it aground on the
opposite shore, where it split and filled with water.
Completely worsted in every effort made, and unable by reason of tho levelness
of the ground, to undermine the garrison, the enemy despaired of forcing or in
ducing a capitulation; having killed none in the fort, and no more than a single
one of the mariners. Some of the enemy, however, after this proceeded over the
river and made havoc among the cattle, while the leaders sent a flag of truce, and
began a parley, offering Capt. Converse the most seducing terms if he would sur
render. ' No,' said he, ' I want nothing of you.1 A short dialogue ensued, after
which the Indian bearing the flag threw it upon the ground and fled. A few scat
tering guns were at intervals discharged till dusk, and about ten in. the evening
the enemy all withdrew."
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Isaac Allerton, one of the Plymouth settlers, was the first who opened and com
menced to trade with the eastern Indians. .By a little barter, from year to year,
at Monhegan and the vicinity, he became acquainted with the fur trade and fish
ery, and in 1625, a shallop, loaded with corn, was sent from Plymouth up the Ken-
nebec River, and exchanged for 700 Ibs. of beaver, beside other furs. Next year
a small trading house was erected at Penobscot (Biguyduce}. In 1627, Mr. Al-
lerton went to England, and obtained from the Plymouth Company the first patent
for trade on the Kennebec; and in the following year a truck-house was estab
lished on the banks of that river. In 1633, he was engaged in establishing a trad
ing house at Machias. He removed to New Haven, where he resided at least fif
teen years.
Sir Ferdinando, Robert, William, Thomas, and a second Ferdinando Gorges, Are
distinguished persons in the history of Maine. The first, through a period of
forty years, greatly interested himself in the discovery, colonization and other af
fairs relating to this eastern country. He was of Spanish extraction, born in
England. He and Sir Walter Raleigh were both adventurous, and at an early
period of their lives, turned their attention toward America. Being many years
the survivor, he had a proportionate advantage. He collected a variety of matter
respecting the history of this country, containing many curious particulars, which
was printed about ten years after his death. He died at the age of 74, in arms on
the side of his king, Charles I, from whom he had received many favors. Robert,
his son, in 1622, took a patent of lands 30 miles by 10, about Cape Ann. He had
also a commission as governor and lieutenant governor of New England. He,
however, returned to England at the end of the year. William, a nephew of Sir
Ferdinando, called Capt. Gorges, was appointed governor of New Somersetshire by
his uncle, in 1635, soon after the 12 provinces were formed. He appointed a coun
cil, held courts at Saco, and exercised an official jurisdiction about two years be
fore his return. Thomas Gorges, the cousin of Sir Ferdinando, arrived in Maine
in 1640, as deputy governor. He opened his court at Saco, which had regular ses
sions, giving to his administration the characteristics of energy and justice. He
returned in 1643, when his commission expired. Ferdinando Gorges, the grand
son of the lord proprietor, came over, it is said, in 1624, to settle Agamenticus.
If he visited the country, his abode was short. The whole provincial patent of
Maine at length descended to him, about which he had a controversy with Massa
158 MAINE.
chusetts, from 1652 to 1677; when he sold the whole to her for £1250 sterling.
His grandfather's " History of America, painted to the life," enlarged by him, and
published in 1658, contains many original, rare and curious facts, precious to the
antiquarian.
Sir William Peppcrell, one of the most distinguished persons born in Maine,
was the son of William Pepperell, a native of Cornwall, England, who emigrated
to the Isle of Shoals in 1676, where he resided for 20 years. He next removed to
Kittery Point, where he died in 1734. His son, afterward Sir William, was born
in 1696, and for 32 years was a member of the Province Council and a lieutenant-
general. For his brilliant services and success in the capture of Louisburg, in
1745, the king enobled him with the title and dignity of Baronet of Great Britain.
He died at his seat in Kittery, July 6, 1759, aged 63.
Sir William Phips was born in 1651, in the wilderness of Maine, where he
lived until he was 18 years of age, and was then apprenticed to a ship carpenter for
four years. He determined to seek his fortune on the sea, where he had the luck
to discover the wreck of a very valuable Spanish vessel, and with the aid of the
British government proceeded in fishing up plate, pearls, and jewels, amounting to
£300,000 sterling in value, with which he sailed to England in 1687. He ob
tained, by his enterprise, £16,000 and the honor of knighthood. He returned to
Boston in 1690, and commanded the expedition which captured Port Royal.
When the new charter of Massachusetts was obtained, he was appointed the first
governor under it. He died in 1695, aged 44.
Ritfus King, minister of the United States to Great Britain, was born in Scar
borough, Maine, in 1755, graduated at Harvard in 1777; in 1778 was aid to Gen.
Sullivan; was a delegate from Massachusetts to the convention which formed the
constitution of the United States. He removed to New York and was elected a
senator from that state in 1789. In 1796, Washington appointed him minister
Plenipotentiary to Great Britain. In 1813, he was again elected to the U. S. Sen
ate, and in 1825 was again appointed minister to England: he died in 1827, leav
ing the reputation of having possessed extraordinary mental powers.
William King, the first governor of the state of Maine, and the president of the
convention which formed its first constitution, was born in 1768, at Scarborough.
In mental endowments he is said to have been superior even to his brother Kufus;
and u it would probably be safe to assert that in manly, intellectual strength.
Maine has never given birth to his equal." He became governor in 1820, and
died in 1852, at the age of 84. For years he represented his district in the legis
lature of Massachusetts, where he took a most prominent part in drafting the re
ligious freedom act. He Avas also the originator of the betterment act, which was
of inestimable advantage to the citizens of Maine, in securing to the original set
tlers a legal claim to their improvements on wild lands, and which greatly pro
moted the settlement and prosperity of the state. He was successful as a mer
chant, and possessed a generous public spirit. In his form and appearance, he
was large and commanding, and the expression of his countenance, his piercing
eye, his massive features, indicated his uncommon strength of mind.
Edward Preble, a commodore in the American Navy, was born at Falmouth
(now Portland), in 1761; and entered the naval service in 1779. In 1803, he was
appointed to the command of the squadron fitted out against Tripoli. He con
ducted the expedition with great skill and bravery, and settled the difficulties with
the Barbary powers on the most favorable terms. He died in 1807, aged 45.
Sargeant S. Prentiss, a distinguished orator, was born in Portland, in 1808,
graduated at Bowdoin at the age of 18, and soon after emigrated to Mississippi, and
commenced the practice of law at Vicksburg. In 1837, he was elected to con
gress, where he soon established the reputation as one of the most brilliant orators
of the nation. Hon. John J. Crittenden said of him, that "eloquence was part of
his nature; and that over his private conversations, as well as throughout his pub
lic speeches, it scattered its sparkling jewels with more than royal profusion."
He died in 1850, aged 42 years.
Wm. Cranch Bond, the eminent astronomer, was born in Portland, in 1789.
He earlv devoted himself with much industrv, talent and success, to astronomical
observations, and to the improvement and construction of astronomical instru-
MAINE. 159
mcnts. In 1839 he was appointed director of the Observatory at Cambridge,
where his labors added largely to the knowledge of the subject of astronomy. He
died Jan. 29, 1859.
CATHOLIC MISSIONS IN MAINE.
[From Gov. Lincoln's MS., published in vol. 1 of the Maine Hist. Soc.]
About the year 1610, the queen regent of France, directing her atten
tion to the spiritual concerns of the new world, sent two Jesuits, the fathers
Biart and Masse, to Port Royal, in Acadia, where Poutrincourt had effected
a settlement. Father Biart made a missionary tour along the coast to the
Cannibas on the Kennebec. He was well received. In 1613, the Mar
chioness de Guercheville prevailed upon the Queen Mother to send two
other missionaries, the jusuits Quentin and Gilbert du Thet, as coadjutors of
Biart and Masse; and taking these latter persons on the passage, they dis
embarked, with 25 others, on the northerly bank of the Penobscot. Here
they met with much success, but their prospects for a harvest of souls was
defeated by a party of Anglo Virginians, under the command of Argal.
This navigator who had been to Mt. Desert on a fishing voyage, attacked
the new establishment of St. Saveur, on the Penobscot — killed du Thet and
some others, plundered and burnt the place. They then proceeded to Port
Royal and committed similar ravages there.
Father Gabriel Dreuillettes was the first evangelical laborer regularly
settled in the wilderness of Kennebec, where he found himself in the year
1646. His success was great, and a large number received baptism. In
the character of an envoy, he twice visited Boston, to form, among other ob
jects, an alliance for the protection of the Cannibas and others of the
Abenakis against their enemies, the Iroquois. The next Catholic missiona
ries who labored in Maine, appear to have been the Fathers Vincent and
Jaques Bigot. Vincent was at Penobscot in 1688, for the purpose of gather
ing the savages into a new village on the lands of the king of France, and
to guard them against the efforts of Gov. Andross to draw them to the Eng
lish. These missionaries were of the family of the Baron Bigots. Con
sidering this circumstance, and the more than patriarchal simplicity which
Vincent Bigot led, we can appreciate his apostolic zeal. Though often
among the Abenakis of Maine, his residence was at the village of St. Fran
cois. His domicil was a rude cabin of bark, his bed a bear skin spread up
on the earth, his dishes were taken from a birch tree, and his food was the
sagarnite, and the game the savages furnished him.
In 1687, the conquest of Acadia had carried the boundary of New Eng
land, as far as the River St. Croix. At this time Father Thury, a Jesuit, re
sided at Penobscot. In the year 1689, being sensible that the encroach
ment of the English would serve to operate against his influence and the
Catholic religion, he summoned the Indians to his chapel. "My children,"
said he, "how long will you suffer your lands to be violated by encroaching
heretics? By the religion I have taught, by the liberty you love, I exhort
you to resist them. # # # * Are you ready to leave the bones of your
ancestors, that the cattle of the heretics may eat grass on their graves? *
* * My children ! God commands you to avenge him of his enemies," etc.
The address of Father Thury in this strain, aroused the rage of the savages,
and 100 warriors made a vow, at the altar, to march to Pemaquid, and never
return until they had driven the English from the fort. They executed the
resolution with a sort of religious frenzy, and 20 pieces of cannon and a
powerful garrison were surrendered to address and valor.
MAINE.
NARRATIVE OF THE CAPTURE, SUFFERINGS AND ESCAPE OF GEN. WADS-
WORTH FROM THE BRITISH IN THE REVOLUTION.
Gen. Peleg Wadsworth was a native of Massachusetts and grad
uated at Harvard in 1769. In the winter of 1780-81, he was sent
to command in the district of Maine, whither he took his family.
In February, 1781, a party of the enemy captured him in his own
house. The particulars which we give are abridged from the long
and interesting narrative in Dwight's Travels. After the war, Gen.
Wadsworth established himself in business in Portland; from 1792 to
about 1806, he represented this district in congress; and was its
first representative. In 1807, he removed to the county of Oxford
to improve a large tract of land granted to him by government for
his services in the revolution. He died at Hiram, in 1829, aged
eighty years. His son Lieut. Henry Wadsworth was blown up with
Capt. Somers and others in a fire ship, in the harbor of Tripoli, in
September, 1804.
"Gen. Wadsworth had selected for a few weeks' residence, a habitation at
Westkeag, a small rill in the heart of Thomaston, where he was living with his
family ; consisting of his wife, a son, five years old, a daughter younger, and Miss
Fenno, a particular friend of Mrs. Wadsworth. He was then guarded by only
six soldiers. Acquainted with his defenseless condition, Gen. Campbell dis
patched a party of 25 men under Lieut. Stockton, from the fort at 'Biguyduce to
make him a prisoner. They arrived at dead of night, Feb. 18, near his house,
which was four miles from the place where they had landed and left their
schooner. The ground was covered with snow, and the weather was severely
cold. The sentry hailed, lwhos there?" — and then, contrary to all orders,
entered the door of the kitchen, which being used as a guard-room for the sol
diers, was now opened by them, to receive him. His retreat was instantly fol
lowed by a volley, fired into that part of the house. At the same moment, others
discharged their guns into the sleeping apartment of the general and his wife,
and blew in a part of the window; and a third party forced their way to Miss
Fenno's room. Thus possession was taken of the whole house, except the gene
ral's room, which was strongly barred. Finding no person with Miss Fenno
except Mrs. Wadsworth, who had fled thither to dress herself, a British officer
ordered the firing there to cease.
Armed with a brace of pistol's, a fusee and a blunderbuss, the general fought
the assailants away entirely from his windows and the kitchen door. Twice he
ineffectually snapped his blunderbuss at others, whom he heard in the front
entry; when they retreated. He next seized his fusee and fired upon those who
were breaking through one of his windows; and they also withdreAV. The attack
was then renewed through the entry — which he bravely resisted with his bayonet.
But the appearance of his under linen, betraying him to the soldiers in the
kitchen, they instantly fired at him, and one of their bullets went through his left
arm : — He then announced a surrender. Still, they continued firing, when he
said to them, "my brave fellows, why do you fire after I have surrendered?" —
They now rushed into the room, and one who was badly wounded exclaimed with
an oath — ' You've taken my life and I'll take yours?" and aimed his gun at the
general's breast. But an officer, coming in at the instant, put it aside and saved
his life. Five or six men, beside the general, were wounded, — the doors and
windows were in ruins; one of the rooms was on fire; the floors were covered
with blood, and on one of them lay weltering an old soldier, who begged that an
end might be put to his misery. But the children and females were unhurt.
An officer, bringing in a candle from Miss Fenno's room, remarked, ' Sir, you
have defended yourself bravely, — done too much for one man. But we must be in
haste. .We will help on with your clothes;' — and in a moment he was clad,
MAINE. IQI
except with his coat, which his wounded arm rendered it impossible for him to
wear. It was therefore committed to a soldier. His wife and her fair friend,
suppressing with admirable fortitude their intense emotion, wished to examine
the wound, but time was not allowed. One threw a blanket over his shoulders,
and the other tied a handkerchief closely round his arm, to check the copious
effusion of blood, A soldier then took him out of the house, greatly exhausted ;
and the assailants departed with the prisoner in the utmost haste. Two wounded
British soldiers were mounted on a horse taken from the general's barn, himself
and a wounded soldier of his, traveling on foot, though aided by their captors.
At the end of a mile, one of the former, apparently dying, was left at a house,
and the general was placed upon the horse behind the other.
When he had come to the place where the schooner lay, which was a privateer;
the master, impatient fora cruise, and finding some of his men had been wounded,
damned him for a rebel, and told him, — 'go help launch the boat, or I'll run you
through.' The general cooly replied, '/ am a prisoner, badly wounded, — unable
to resist, treat me as you may.' Acquainted with this abuse, the commanding
officer, Stockton, came instantly from the house, where he was taking refresh
ments, and said to the captain, 'your conduct shall be reported to your superiors.
The prisoner is a gentleman, has made a brave defense, and is to be treated honor
ably.' Thunderstruck at this severe reprimand, the captain set the general and
his fellow sufferers on board, assigned him a good berth in the cabin, and ad
ministered such comforts as the vessed afforded.
Next day he was landed upon the peninsula; the shores thronging with spec
tators, Britons and Yankee refugees, or Tories, anxious to see the man, who,
through the preceding year, had disappointed all the enemy's designs in this
quarter. The rabble raised shouts loud and long, as he stepped ashore, and he
felt it a privilege to march under guard to the house of a refugee ; and thence,
half a mile to the officers' guard-room in the fort. General Campbell soon sent
a surgeon to dress his wounds, and a messenger to assure him, he should be made
as comfortable as his situation would permit. The surgeon found the joint of the
prisoner's elbow uninjured, and pronounced the wound free from danger, if an
artery were not touched; — a fact, he said, indeterminable till a suppuration
should take place.
At breakfast next morning with the- officers, to which he was politely invited,
General Campbell paid him a high compliment upon the defense he had made;
yet thought he had exposed himself to a degree, which, could not be perfectly
justified. 'From the manner of attack,' said Wadsworth, 'I had no reason to
suppose there was any design to take me alive, and I determined to sell my life
dearly as possible.' 'To men of our profession,' replied Campbell, 'this is as it
should be. The treatment you have received from the captain of the privateer
has come to my knowledge ; and you shall receive from him the proper conces
sions. A room' of the officers' barracks within the fort will be prepared for you;
and one of the orderly sergeants will daily attend you to breakfast and dinner at
my table, where a sea"t will be reserved, if you choose to accept it.' Campbell,
moreover, after his worthy prisoner had retired, sent into his apartment several
entertaining books; and presently calling upon him in person, endeavored to
cheer his spirits with animated conversation. In a short time he was visited by
the officers of the victorious party; and among them was the redoubtable captain
of the privateer, who made to him an apology "which he accepted.
Wadsworth saw himself now alone — wounded — imprisoned. The vivid ardor
of enterprize was chilled; there was no new plan to be devised or executed in
the service of his beloved country; — no motive to excite an effort or even rouse a
vigorous thought, Neither books nor attentions could beguile the heavy hours.
After a few days, however, at his request, an officer (Lieut. Stockton) was sent
to Camden with a flag of truce, carrying letters from the general to his wife, and
to the governor of Massachusetts, stating his situation, the obliging treatment he
had received, and his desires to be exchanged. Camden, the American encamp
ment, though down the bay, was on its western shore, only seven leagues distant
from Biguyduce, and less than four from the place where he had quartered; yet
the receipt of an answer from his wife, was not till the end of a fortnight from
162 MAINE.
the disastrous night. His extreme anxiety for his children was then relieved by
intelligence, for tho first time, of their safety. His little son, it seemed, slept
through the bloody scene undisturbed.
At the end of five weeks, finding his wounds so far healed as to permit hia
going abroad, he sent a note to General Campbell, requesting the customary priv
ilege of a parol. But he was told that some of the refugees were his bitterest
enemies, and exposure would endanger his safety; that the garrison might suffer
hazard by the inspection of a military man; and that no alteration of his circum
stances could be allowed, till a return Avas received to a communication sent the
commanding general at New York. Favored, in about two months, with a visit
of ten days from his wife and Miss Fenno, under the protection of a passport
from General Campbell, General Wadsworth suspected in the meantime from
some intimations, that he was not to be exchanged. Miss Fenno, being also fear
ful of the fact, had the address and shrewdness to ascertain from one of the
officers, who was fond of her, and occasionally in the general's quarters, that he
was to be sent to New York, Halifax, or some place in the British dominions.
This she kept a profound secret till the moment of her departure, when she barely
said, with a most significant look, 'General Wadsworth, take care of yourself.'
The monitory caution he more fully understood, — shortly afterward, when told
by one of his attending servants, that he was to be sent to England, as a rebel of
too much consequence to be safely trusted with his liberty. The commanding
general henceforth withheld his civilities, though his officers continued still to
visit his room and treat him with attention.
In April, Major Benjamin Burton, who had served under the general, the pre
ceding summer, was taken prisoner on his passage from Boston to St. George's
River, the place of his residence, and lodged in the same room with the general.
He was a brave and worthy man, and had fortified his own habitation with stone
battlements. Circumstances, from day to day, and hints, confirmed their suspi
cions, that they were to be transported and kept in confinement till the close of
the war; and that it was indispensable to take care of themselves. They deter
mined, therefore, to effect their escape or perish in the attempt.
But they were confined in a grated room of the officers' barracks within the
fort. Beside the surrounding ditch, they knew the walls of the fortress were
twenty feet high, — secured with frazing gn the top, and chevaux-de-frize at the
bottom. Within and upon the walls, and near the exterior doors of the building,
there were sentinels posted; and also two in the entry about the prisoners' door.
The upper part of this door was a window-sash — opened by the guards at plea
sure, not unfrequently in times of profound darkness and silence. From items
of information, obtained through inquiries apparently careless, Wadsworth and
Burton ascertained, that there were without the ditch, the glacis and abattis, another
set of sentinel soldiers, who always patroled through the night. The gate was
shut at sunset, and a picket guard was placed on or near the isthmus north-west
ward, to prevent any escape from the fort, to the main land. In view of these
direful obstacles, they could never have been wrought up to a resolution suffi
ciently desperate for the emergency, by anything, except the apprehension of a
deplorable captivity abroad, in the hands of an enemy, exasperated by a long and
tedious war, carried on against those who were deemed rebels. At length, a let
ter with money was received in a cartel from Gov. Hancock, also a proposal for
exchange — but it was already otherwise determined.
As their room was. ceiled overhead with pine boards, they settled upon this
plan of escape : — to cut off one of them and open an aparture, large enough for
a man to pass; to creep through it along one of the joists, over the officers' rooms
adjoining theirs, to the iniddfe entry; and to lower themselves silently into it bj
means of a blanket. Should they be discovered, they proposed to avoid detection
by acting like officers intoxicated, — objects with which the sentinels were fami
liarized. The transit from the entry to the walls was feasible; whence they
intended to slide down into the ditch, and make the best of their way half a mile
to the cove at the isthmus.
They first begun upon the ceiling with a penknife, but soon found that the strokes
and the appearance would betray them. They next procured from a soldier, whc
MAINE.
163
was their barber, a gimlet without exciting a suspicion ; making him a present of
a dollar, not so much apparently for the article, as for his civilities; as they knew
he would never disclose a fact or a secret, which might give him trouble. Wads-
worth bein^ of middle stature, could, when standing on the floor, only reach the
ceiling with the ends of his fingers; but Burton being taller could use the gimlet
without a chair. Every perforation was instantly filled with paste, made of bread
fitted in the mouth. In three weeks, the board was riddled with holes twice
across, and the interstrices cut; only a few grains of wood at the corners holding
the piece in its place.
To prepare for their departure, they laid aside for food, their crusts and a part
of their meat at their meals, which they dried; and made from sticks of their
firewood, pretty large skewers, with which they intended to fasten the corners of
their bed-blankets to the stakes in the frasing on the top of the wall, and by those
means let themselves down into the ditch. After every preparation was made, an
anxious week elapsed, without a night favorable to their escape. However, on
the evening of June 18, there was a tempest and much lightning. About 11 of
the clock as the flashes ceased, the rain suddenly began to descend in torrents ;
and the darkness was profound. They now believed the long wished for moment
had arrived. They retired to bed, while the sentinel was looking at them through
the glass-door; and under his eyes extinguished their candle. But they presently
arose ; and in less than an hour, the piece overhead was completely out, and they
prepared to leave.
Burton ascended with considerable ease, through the aperture or passage first;
but Wadsworth found great difficulty in following him, by reason of his late
wounded arm. Becoming thus separated, they saw each other no more during
the night. Wadsworth after passing the entry and the door, felt his way along
the outside of the building, directly under the sheet of water falling from the
eaves, till he attained the western side, when he shaped his course for the em
bankment or wall of the fort. Finding the bank too steep for ascent, he felt out
an oblique path, which he pursued, as he had seen the soldiers do, to the top.
Next he proceeded to the north bastion, where he and Burton had agreed to cross
the wall. Alert in his endeavors to discover and avoid the sentry-boxes, he heard
a voice at the guard-house door on the opposite side of the fort, exclaim — relief-
turn out! At the same moment he heard a scrambling at a short distance, and
knew Burton must be there. As he was approached by the ' relief guard/ he
made all haste to get himself with his wet blankets across the parapet, upon the
frasing, to avoid being actually stepped upon by the relief. Here he fastened the
corner of his blanket with a skewer to a picket, and let himself down by it, to
the corner, nearest the ground, and dropped without harm into the ditch. From
this, he crept softly out at the water-course, between the sentry-boxes, and de
scended the declivity of the hill. Once more in the open field, undiscovered and
uninjured, he could scarcely persuade himself, that the whole adventure was not
a dream; — a reverie from which he might awake and still find himself in prison.
Both the rain and the darkness continuing, he groped his way among rocks,
stumps and brush to an old guard-house, on the shore of the back cove, where he
waited in vain, half an hour, to meet his friend, according to previous agreement.
He then proceeded to the cove, and happily finding it was low water, forded
across it, in some places three feet deep, and in extent about a mile. Thence he
traveled another mile, up a gentle ascent over windfalls, to the road formerly cut
by his direction, to facilitate the removal of heavy cannon. At sunrise, he was
on the eastern bank of the Penobscot, perhaps seven or eight miles from the fort.
The rain had ceased, and the weather was becoming fair. He stopped, — and as
he was resting on the ground, — to his unspeakable joy, he was overtaken by his
fellow-prisoner. The meeting was mutually rapturous; and the more so, as each
believed the other to have been lost. Here they took a boat, and obliquely
crossed the bay below Orphan Island. They had seen the barge of the enemy in
pursuit, though they were evidently undiscovered. From the western shore they
steered south-west, by a pocket compass, to the sources or branches of St.
George's River; and the third day, they arrived at the habitations of settlers;
and thence proceeded on horseback at Thomaston.
11
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
ARMS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.
THE early history of New Hampshire is closely connected with that
of Massachusetts. In 1621, Capt. John Mason obtained, from the
Council of Plymouth, a grant of all
the land from the River of Naumkeag
(now Salem), round Cape Ann to the
River Merrimac, and up each of those
rivers to the furthermost head there
of: then to cross over from the head
of one to the other, with all the is
lands lying within three miles of the
coast. This was called the District
of Mariana. The next year another
grant was made to Sir Ferdinando
Gorges and Mason, jointly, of all
the lands between the Merrimac and
Sagadahoc Rivers, extending back to
the great lakes and the St. Lawrence
or River of Canada. This grant,
which includes part of the other, was called Laconia.
Under the authority of this grant, in 1623, Gorges and Mason sent
over a number of fishmongers, of London, " with a number of other
persons in two divisions." These were to establish a colony and
fishery at the mouth of the Piscataqua. They arrived in safety. The
principal persons were David Tompson, Edward and William Hilton.
Tompson and some others began a settlement at Little Harbor, on
the south or west bank of the Piscataqua, at its mouth, near the pres
ent city of Portsmouth. At this place, called Pascatoquack, they
erected a house called " Mason Hall" and hastily built salt works.
The Hilton, with the other party, went up eight miles further and be
gan the settlement of Dover.
In 1629, " Laconia was divided, probably by mutual agreement, be
tween Mason and Gorges. The wild region east of the Piscataqua,
was relinquished to Gorges, and took the name of Maine ; while the
tract west of this river, and extending back into the country sixty
miles, was confirmed to Mason. The county of Hampshire had been
his [Mason's] residence, and to his extensive grant in the new world
he gave the name of New Hampshire." *
* Barstow's Hist, of New Hampshire.
(165)
166 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
At this period it has been estimated that there were about 5,000
Indians within the present limits of New Hampshire. A small tribe
dwelt at Exeter, another at Dover, and a third at the Pascataquas, on
the banks of that river. The Ossipees roamed round the Ossipee and
Winnipisseogee Lakes, and the Pequawkets dwelt on the upper
branches of the Saco. The Penacooks lived around Concord, along
the banks of the Merrimac, and the hunting ground of the Coos In
dians extended through Grafton county, and upward over from the
meadows of Lancaster to the head waters of the Connecticut. These
confederated nations were distinguished by the general name of Paw-
tuckets, and were subject to the mild sway of the sachem Passacona-
way.
A party of Mason's associates, for the better security of their in
terests, obtained a grant of the township of Dover, while Mason pro
cured for himself a charter of Portsmouth. These colonists were di
vided into two distinct communities, called the Upper and Lower
Plantations. They were subject to different regulations, and were
afterward two distinct governments, like independent states. The
Dover plantation was under the patronage of the "west countrie" ad
venturers, who appointed Thomas Wiggin their superintendent and
agent. The Lower Plantation was under the patronage of the Lon
don adventurers; and the first superintendent of Portsmouth, was
Walter Neal. While English emigrants, at the Lower Plantation,
were busy about their fishing, the Danish emigrants among them
sawed lumber and made potash. The few pieces of cannon which the
proprietor sent over to terrify the Indians, were placed at the N. E.
point of Great Island, on a high rock, about a bow shot from the
shore. It was thought that " the redoubling noise of these great
guns, rolling in the rocks, would cause the Indians to betake them
selves to flight."
In 1638, the Rev. John Wheelright, who had previously purchased
the land of the Indians, laid the foundation of Exeter. The next
year 35 persons residing in that town, combined and established a
civil government, which may be considered as the foundation of the
state, and of a government which has continued but with trifling al
teration for more than two centuries. The plantation of Hampton
was formed the same year. The salt meadows here had attracted the
notice of Massachusetts, the general court of which empowered Rich
ard Dummer and John Spence to build a house at this place. A
number of persons from Norfolk, England, came over and increased
the aggregate of settlers to 46.
In 1640, four distinct governments had been formed on the several
branches of the Piscataqua. The people under them were too much
divided to form any general plan of government, and the distracted
state of the mother country cut off all hope of the royal attention.
The more considerate people thought it best to come under the pro
tection of Massachusetts, by a union with that colony. In 1641, the
principal persons of the Piscataqua settlements, by a formal instru-
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
ment, came under the jurisdiction of Massachusetts. The property
of the whole patent of Portsmouth, and one third of that of Dover was
reserved to the lords, and gentlemen proprietors, and their heirs for
ever. The laws of Massachusetts provided that none but church
members should vote in town meetings, or sit as members of the gene
ral court: by an act of uncommon liberality at this period, this quali
fication was dispensed with, as far as it regarded New Hampshire.
At the time of the union, New Hampshire contained but about 1,000
inhabitants, and for 38 years, the period of their connection, the
terms of the union were faithfully observed.
In 1675, Robert Mason, the grandson and heir of John Mason, ap
plied to the king to obtain the possession of the territory, and rights
which had been granted to his ancestor. Notice of this application
was given to Massachusetts, and the parties were heard by the king
in council. In 1679, a decree was passed, that New Hampshire
should be constituted a separate province to be ruled by a president
and council who were to be appointed by the king, and a house of
representatives to be chosen by the people. The first assembly con
sisting of 11 members, met at Portsmouth in 1680. At this session
a code of laws was adopted, in style worthy of freemen, that no law
or ordinance should be imposed unless made by the assembly, and ap
proved by the president and council.
In the same year Mason arrived in the colony. He had been ap
pointed a member of the council; he assumed the title of Lord Pro
prietor, claimed the soil as his property, and threatened to prosecute
all who would not take from him leases of the lands they occupied.
His claims were resisted by most of the inhabitants, who claimed the
fee simple of the soil by a more righteous, if not legal title. The
peace of the colony was long disturbed by these conflicting claims.
Maj. Waldron, of Dover, was at the head of those who contended with
Mason, and against him and many others, suits were instituted. No
defense was made: judgments were obtained; but so general was
the hostility to Mason, that he never dared to enforce them.
Over Massachusetts and New Hampshire, for many years, the same
governor presided, but with distinct commissions. After Andros was
deposed, the inhabitants of New Hampshire desired again to be incor
porated with Massachusetts. This union was opposed by Samuel
Allen, of London, who had purchased of Mason's heirs their title to
their lands in New England, for £2,750. Allen was made governor
of the colony, and by his influence John Usher, his son-in-law, was
appointed lieutenant-governor. Under his administration, the dis
putes, occasioned by adverse claims to land, continued to rage with
increased violence. Suits were instituted and judgments obtained;
but the sheriff was forcibly resisted by a powerful combination, when
ever he attempted to put the plaintiff in possession.
New Hampshire was a great sufferer from the Indian wars. The
surprise of Dover, in 1689, was attended by the most shocking bar
barities. Maj. Waldron perished, after having been tortured in the
168 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
most cruel manner. This appears to have been done out of revenge
for the injuries received by the Indians from Waldron. In the whole,
23 persons were killed and 29 carried prisoners to Canada, where they
were sold to the French. The war was prosecuted with great vigor.
The French, by giving premiums for scalps, and by purchasing Eng
lish prisoners, animated the Indians to exert all their activity and ad
dress, and the frontier inhabitants endured the most aggravated suf
ferings. Nearly 100 persons were killed or carried off prisoners, at
the settlements at Oyster River : other towns were attacked, many
persons slain and many carried into captivity.
In 1719, upward of 100 families, from the province of Ulster, in
Ireland, emigrated and settled the town of Londonderry. They came
from the vicinity of Londonderry, in the north of Ireland, to which
Elace their ancestors had emigrated about a century before, from Scot-
ind. In 1720, they purchased the Indian title, and, although it was
a frontier town, it was never molested by the Indians. These settlers
introduced the foot spinning wheel, and the culture of potatoes.
They also introduced the manufacture of linen cloth, which, for a time,
was a considerable source of prosperity.
In 1737, a controversy, which had long subsisted between Massa
chusetts and New Hampshire, respecting their divisional line, was
heard by commissioners appointed by the crown for that purpose.
These commissioners, " after a long and angry discussion, fixed upon
the present eastern boundary. The southern, they were unable to
determine. An appeal to the king was the only mode of adjustment.
Tired of the controversy, both parties finally agreed to submit the
whole subject to the royal decision. Three years afterward, George
II, terminated the dispute in favor of New Hampshire. In regard to
the eastern boundary, he confirmed the judgment of the commission
ers. His decision upon the southern line was not anticipated by
either party. He substituted the present line for one running due
west, from a point three miles north from the mouth of the Merrimac;
thus giving New Hampshire a territory of 50 miles in length, by 14
in breadth, more than she had claimed. This enlargement of territory,
population, and wealth, gave to New Hampshire a new political im
portance." *
At the time of the brilliant exploit of the New England men against
Louisburg, in 1745, New Hampshire raised a detachment of 500 men,
bearing upon their banners the motto given by Whitfield, "Nil des-
perandum Christo duee." f The merit of originating this enterprise
is believed by many to belong to William Vaughan, of Portsmouth.
He had learned from the fishermen the situation, etc., of Louisburg,
* Barstow's Hist, of New Hampshire.
•{"The celebrated Mr. Whitfield was at this period itinerating through this section of the
country, where vast crowds attended on his ministry. As his influence was great among
the people, he was solicited to give his sanction to the expedition in some form ; he, after
some hesitation, gave the above motto [//" Christ be captain, no fear of a defeat], A large
number of religious men now immediately enlisted.
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
and conceived the design of taking it by surprise. He was one of
the most active of the besiegers. Pepperell and Warren, the com
manders, each received the title of baronet for their services, while
" Vaughan, the originator of the enterprise, and the most gallant spirit
of the crusade, remained more than a year in England in the vain ex
pectation of receiving some token of recognition from the sovereign
whom he had so signally served, and died a disappointed man."
After the conquest of Canada, New Hampshire made rapid pro
gress in wealth and population. Relieved from incursions of the In
dians upon her frontiers, her settlements were rapidly extended.
During the French arid Indian wars, numerous bodies of troops passed
through the green and fertile country now known as Vermont. Upon
the cessation of hostilities, a stream of emigration poured into the
country on both sides of the Connecticut River, and in the year 1761,
not less than 60 townships were granted on the west, and 18 on the
east side of the river. The governor's coffers were filled by the fees.
Wentworth, the royal governor of New Hampshire, retained 500 acres
in each town to himself. The grants on the west side of the Connec
ticut alarmed the government of New York, who claimed the land un
der the grant of the Duke of York. The fees for granting lands
were coveted by the governor of that province, and the grasping sel
fishness of these two royal governors would have soon eventuated in
bloodshed, had not the coming troubles of the approaching conflict
with the mother country absorbed all other considerations.
Although during the revolutionary period the soil of New Hamp
shire was not distinguished as the scene of any bloody conflict, yet
she furnished her full share of men and means in the struggle else
where. On the first outbreak of the revolution, most of the royalists
fled from her territory, or were restricted to certain limits. The royal
authority having been abolished, a convention assembled at Exeter,
and having assumed the name of the House of Representatives, they
adopted a constitution, and proceeded to choose twelve persons to
constitute a distinct branch of the legislature, by the name of a Coun
cil. These twelve were empowered to elect their own president. The
president of the council was president of the executive committee.
To this responsible station, Meshech Weare was chosen ; he was also
made judge of the superior court. To these highest offices, legisla
tive, executive and judicial, Mr. Weare continued to be chosen through
the stormy period of the revolution, discharging his various duties
with fidelity and wisdom. In 1791 a convention was formed to re
vise the state constitution. This was completed the next year. The
title of the chief magistrate was changed from president to governor,
but all the main features of the constitution remained unchanged.
New Hampshire is bounded north by Canada East, east by Maine
and the Atlantic, south by Massachusetts, and west by Connecticut
River, separating it from Vermont. It lies between 42° 40', and 45°
25' N. Lat., and 70° 40', and 72° 35' W. Lon. It is 168 miles long
from north to south, and from 20 to 90 wide from east to west. It
170 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
contains ninety-five millions of acres, of which about two and a half
millions are improved. The whole state maybe considered as mount
ainous, broken and hilly, except a small section in the south-east,
toward the sea, and for this reason it is sometimes called the " Swit
zerland of America."
The principal rivers in the state are the Connecticut and the Mer-
rimac. The Connecticut rises in the extreme northern part of the
state, and forms nearly the whole of its western boundary. The Mer-
rimac rises in the White Mountains, and passes through the middle of
the state, into Massachusetts, and furnishes a great amount of water
power to the manufacturing towns upon its banks. The White Mount
ains, in the northern part of the state, attract more tourists than any
other natural object in the United States, excepting Niagara Falls.
Lake Whmepisseogee, the largest and most picturesque in the state, is
about 25 miles long, and from one to ten in width. The northern
part of the state is but little cultivated. The hills afford valuable pas
turage for cattle and sheep. The best lands are in the valleys of the
rivers, which are occasionally overflowed, especially in the valley of
the Connecticut. The mountainous portion abounds in granite rocks.
The original civilized population of New Hampshire was, with very
few exceptions, exclusively of English descent, and the rural districts
still remain without much mixture. Population in 1800, 141,899; in
1840, 284,574; in 1850, 317,864; in 1860, 326,175.
PORTSMOUTH is situated on a beautiful peninsula, on the south side
of Piscataqua River, about three miles from its mouth, containing an
area of 9,702 acres. It is situated 42 miles E. of Concord, 51 S. of
Portland, and 54 N. of Boston. Population about 11,000. It is the
center of a considerable trade, directed by wealthy and enterprising
citizens. Some of the finest ships, both for the mercantile arid
naval service, have been built here. Manufacturing is extensively
carried on. Among the most important corporations are the Ports
mouth Steam Factory, for the manufacture of lawns, and the Saga
more Manufacturing Co. Portsmouth has also a large amount in
vested in railroads, navigation and manufactures in other places. The
literary advantages of Portsmouth are highly respectable, having
schools conducted on the most approved principles. The Atheneuru
has a library of about 10,000 volumes.
A great object of interest is the United States Navy Yard at Kit-
tery, on the opposite side of the river. Among other things, it con
tains three immense ship-houses and a floating balance dock. The
North America, the first line-of-battle ship launched in the western
hemisphere, was built on Badger's Island, during the revolutionary
war. The harbor, which lies between the city and mouth of the river,
is deep, easy of access, and one of the most secure and commodious
in the United States. It is naturally protected from the north-east
storms, and can be easily rendered inaccessible to enemies. The main
entrance to the harbor is on the north-east, between New Castle and
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
171
Kittery, arid it is defended by Forts McCIary and Constitution. The
other entrance, on the south of New Castle, is called Little Harbor,
where the water is shoal, and the bottom sandy. The first settlers of
New Hampshire landed at this place in 1623.
£-,v:. = „ -,^:-^
Northern view of Portsmouth, from the Portsmouth Bridge.
[The annexed view shows the appearance of Portsmouth, as seen from the long bridge over the Piccata-
qua, connecting the states of Maine and New Hampshire. The point of Badger'n Island appears on the
extreme left, Noble's Island on the right, and in tho distance the Portsmouth Steam Factory. The spire
of the North Congregational Church is seen in the central part ; that of St. John's (Episcopal), and the
new public school on the left.]
That part of the town which lies about Church Hill, extending north
and south, was originally called Strawberry Bank. The first Episco
pal Church was erected previous to the year 1638. In 1732, a new
church was erected nearly on the ground where St. John's Church
now stands. It was called the Queen's Chapel. The parish was in
corporated in 1791, by the name of St. John's Parish. In Dec., 1806,
this church was burnt. The present edifice was completed in 1808.
The South Congregational Church built their meeting house on the
south side of 1he milldam, in 1657 ; in 1731, they erected the build
ing commonly called " Old South." The Middle Street Baptist Church
was organized in 1828. In 1852, their new chapel was erected on
State street. The Universalist Church owes its origin to Rev. John
Murray, the founder of the Universalists in the United States, in the
year 1773. A church was erected for them in Vaughan-st. in 1784.
Their present church was erected in 1808. Rev. Jesse Lee appears
to have been the first Methodist Episcopal minister who visited Ports
mouth. He was a missionary through New England in 1789. The so
ciety purchased the house vacated by the Universalists, where they
met for 19 years. In 1827, they erected their brick church in State
street. The North Church was gathered by Rev. Joshua Moody, in
1671. In 1855, a new church edifice was erected on the spot where
two previous churches formerly stood. The Catholic Church was
172
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
erected in 1852. The Pleasant St. Christian Society was organized
in 1802, and in 1806 a meeting house was erected. In 1839, they
purchased their house on Pleasant street.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the an
cient or north graveyard, by the railroad depot.
Here are deposited the remains of the Honorable WILLIAM WHIFFLE, who departed this
life on the 28th day of November, 1785, in the 55th year of his age. He was often elected,
and thrice attended the continental congress, as a delegate for the state of New Hampshire,
particularly in that memorable year in which America declared itself independent of Great
Britain. He was also, at the time of his decease, a judge of the supreme court of judica
ture. In him a firm and ardent patriotism was united with universal benevolence and every
social virtue.
Here rest the remains of Doctor JOSHUA BRACKETT, late president of the New Hampshire
Medical Society, who, in the belief of the restoration of all things, calmly resigned his
breath, July 17, A. D. 1802, in the 69th year of his age. Appointed by the state of New
Hampshire, judge of the maritime court, and at the time she assumed her sovereign rights,
he sustained the office with honor and integrity until the adoption of the Federal compact.
He was in judgment sound, in friendship firm, in sentiment liberal, in benevolence un
bounded.
Eastern view of the central part of Concord.
[The annexed view shows the appearance of the compact part of Concord, as seen from the high sandy
bluff rising abruptly from the level meadows bordering on the Morrimac. The free bridge over the Merri-
mac is seen near the central part, above which appear the state house and other public buildings on the Main
street of the city. The railroad depot is on the left, above which, in the distance, is seen the insane asy
lum. The new city hall on Main street, on the extreme right."
CONCORD, the seat of justice for Merrimac county, city, and capital
of the state of New Hampshire, is principally situated on the west
side of the Merrimac, near the center of the state, east and west, be
ing 50 miles from the Atlantic coast, and the same distance from the
Connecticut River. By railroad, from Boston it is 76 miles, and 158
from Augusta, Me., through Portsmouth, and 132 from Montpelier,
Vt. The city limits are quite extensive, embracing within its bounds
four villages or settlements. The principal village, or " the street" as
it is frequently called, extends along the Merrimac about a mile and
NEW HAMPSHIRE. 173
a half, and is the central place for business, containing the state house,
10 churches, four banks, and other public buildings, and a population
estimated at about 7,000. The state house is on State street, and was
completed in 1819. It stands in a beautiful grove of trees. Its walls
are of hammered granite, and cost, with its appendages, and the lot
on which it stands, $82,000. The Methodist General Institute, which
was incorporated in 1847, occupies the " old North Church." It is
at the north end of Main street. The State Prison, mainly sustained
by the labor of the convicts, is located in this section. The New
Hampshire Asylum for the Insane, a half a mile south from the state
house, was erected in 1841, and is an ornament to the city, and an
honor to the state. The West Parish village, about three miles
from the state house, is a place of considerable manufacture of
blankets and flannels. Here is a station of the Concord and Clare-
mont Railroad. Fishersville, a thriving village, on the north line
of Concord, at the junction of the Contoocook with the Merrimac,
about six miles from the main village, contains about 1,500 inhabit
ants. The first mill was erected by the Messrs. Fisher of Boston, in
1836.
Concord was originally called Penacook, from an Indian tribe of
that name, whose head quarters were fixed here at the period of the
English settlements. They were " under a powerful chieftain, called
Passaconawaij, who extended his dominion over subordinate tribes
along the river, from the Winnipisseogee to Pawtucket Falls, and as
far east as the Squamscots and Piscataqua."* It appears that he was
regarded with the highest veneration by the Indians, on account of the
wonderful powers he possessed. He was a powow, sustaining the of
fice of priest and physician, and having direct communication with
the Great Spirit. This tract was granted by Massachusetts to Ben
jamin Stephens and others, in 1725, and the settlement began the
year following. The Rev. Timothy Walker was settled as minister in
1730, and died in 1782. « Mr. Walker," says Mr. Bouton, in his
History of Concord, " is, more than any other single person, entitled
to the appellation of the father of the town.* In time of peace, they
were in the habit of calling at his house, where they were hospitably
entertained."")* In 1733, the plantation was incorporated by the name
of Rumford, which name it retained until 1765, when the town was
incorporated by its present name. It was incorporated as a city in
1853.
Concord suffered much from the incursions of the savages between
* Bouton's History of Concord, 1855.
f The following tradition is preserved : Mr. Walker, on one occasion, had for his text,
" When thou hast voiced a vow unto God, defer not to pay it," After he had finished his sermon,
an Indian, who happened to be present, 'stepped up to Mr. W., saying : " Now me vow to go
home with you, Mr. Minister." Mr. \V., having no plausible reason for turning him oft',
replied, " Well, I suppose you must go, then." Having arrived at his house, the Indian
vowed again, saying, " Now me vow me have supper." When this was finished, he said,
" Me vow me stay all night." Mr. W. by this time thinking himself sufficiently taxed, re
plied, " It may bo so, but I vow you 4h*ll go away in tb.e morning."
174 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
the years 1740 and 1750. On Aug. 11, 0. S., 1746, Lieut. Bradley
and four other men were killed a short distance westward of the site
of the insane asylum. At this period, fearing an attack from the In
dians, five of the houses in Concord were garrisoned as a defense. A
company of soldiers, under Capt. Ladd and Lieut. Bradley were sent
by the governor from Exeter for the defense of Rumford and the ad
jacent towns. On the morning of the llth, Lieut. Bradley took seven
men with him for the purpose of going to a garrison about two and a
half miles from Rumford. They had proceeded upward of a mile,
when they fell into an ambuscade of about 100 Indians, who killed
five of their number and captured the two others, after a bloody strug
gle, in which four of the Indians were killed and two wounded, who
were carried off on biers. The bodies of Lieut. Bradley and his com
panions, shockingly mangled, stripped of their clothing, and bloody,
were put side by side in a cart, which was driven into the main street,
where a great number of men, women and children were collected to
see the dreadful sight. The next day they were all buried in two
graves, near what was then the north-west corner of the old burying
ground.
On the 22d of Aug., 1837 (corresponding with llth of Aug., O. S.), a granite
monument was erected at the place of massacre, on the north side of the road
leading to Hopkinton. A large concourse of people assembled, a long procession
was formed under the direct ion of Col. Brown, chief marshal, and when the mon
ument was raised, the procession moved to the grove of oaks on the south side of
the road. A hymn, by the Rev. John Pierpont, of Boston, was then sung, and an
address was given by Mr. Asa McFarland. After the reading of the original pe
tition of the inhabitants of Kumford for succor against the Indians, by Richard
Bradley, Esq., a conveyance of the monument and grounds to the New Hampshire
Historical Society was then delivered to the Rev. Mr. Boutwell, who received it on
behalf of the society. An ode, by G. Kent, Esq., and an historical ballad by Miss
Mary Clark was given. Prayers were offered by the Rev. Mr. Boutwell and llev.
E. E. Cummings. The following is the hymn by Mr. Pierpont .
Not now, 0 God, beneath the trees We praise thce that thou plantest them,
That shade this vale at night's cold noon, And inad'st thy heavens drop down their
Do Indian war-songs load the breeze, dew ;
Or wolves sit howling to the moon. We pray that, shooting from their stein,
We long may flourish where they grew.
The foes, the fears our fathers left, And, Father, leave us not alone ;
Have with our fathers passed away ; Thou hast been, and art still our trust;
And where in death's dark shade they knelt, Be thou our fortress, till our own
We come to praise thee and to pray. Shall mingle with our fathers' dust.
The monument, 12 feet high, has the following inscription:
This monument is in memory of SAMUKL BRADLEY, JONATHAN BRADLEY, OBADIAH PKTERS,
JOHN BEAN, and JOHN LUFKIN, who were massasred Aug. 11, 1746, by the Indians. Erected
1837, by Richard Bradley, son of the Hon. John Bradley, and grandson of Samuel Bradley.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the grave
yard at the north end of State street. The first is that of John Far
mer, M. A., one of the most distinguished genealogists and antiqua
rians in this country. He was naturally of a feeble constitution, and
from early life his appearance was that of a person in the last stage
of consumption. But notwithstanding his great bodily infirmity, he
was by his industry and perseverance to accomplish wonders.
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
At the age of sixteen he became clerk in a store in Amherst, N. H. After
ward, in 1810, he engaged in teaching school, an employment in which he greatly
excelled. While engaged in this profession, Mr. Farmer cultivated his natural
taste, and pursued with industry historical inquiries. In 1813, he was elected a
corresponding member of the Massachusetts Historical Society, and contributed
largely to its "collections." In 1821, he removed to Concord, and formed a con
nection in business with Dr. Morill, as an apothecary. His feeble health com
pelled him to lead quite a sedentary mode of life.
From the time of his removal to Concord, Mr. Farmer devoted himself princi
pally to his favorite studies and pursuits, and soon became distinguished beyond
his fellow-citizens for a knowledge of facts and events relative to New Hampshire
and New England. His published works are very numerous, and considering his
infirm health during the seventeen years he resided at Concord, those who best
knew him were surprised at the extent and variety of his labors. His "Genea
logical Register" may be called his great work. A great labor, and the one on
which he was engaged for some time before his death, was the examining and ar
ranging the state papers at Concord. To this undertaking he was appointed by
the legislature of New Hampshire, in Jan., 1837. His last sickness was short
He wished to be still and tranquil. His reason remained unclouded to the last
Having expressed consolation in the hope of eternal life through Jesus Christ, he
gently fell asleep in death.
JOHN FARMER, born at Chelmsford, Mass., 22d June, 1789; died in this town, 13th Aug.,
1838 ; aged 49 years. Honored as a man, distinguished as an antiquarian and scholar, be
loved as a friend, and revered as a Christian philanthropist, and a lover of impartial lib
erty. His death has occasioned a void in society which time will fail to supply ; and the
reason and fitness of which, as to time and manner, and attendant circumstances, eternity
alone can fully unfold.
In memory of Countess SA.RAH RUMFORD, only daughter of Count Rumford, and grand
daughter of Rev. Timothy Walker, the first settled minister of Concord. As the founder
of the Rolfe and Rumford Asylum, and patroness of other institutions of a, kindred char
acter, she manifested a deep sympathy with the afflicted, and a commendable regard for the
poor. Having passed a large portion of her life in Europe, she returned near its close to
her family mansion in this city, where she was born Oct. 10, 1774, and where she died, Dec.
2, 1852.
The countess was born in the Rolfe house, at the " Eleven Lots."
Her father, Maj. Benj. Thompson, afterward Count Rumford, taught
school in Concord about three years previous to the revolution, and
married Mrs. Sarah, the widow of Benj. Rolfe, Esq. In 1775, falling
under the suspicion of being a loyalist, he was treated in such a man
ner that he finally put himself under the protection of Gen. Gage, at
Boston. After the death of her mother, in 1792, the countess went
to Europe, and was introduced into the first circles in Bavaria, Paris
and London. Her principal residence was at Brompton, near Lon
don, in a house inherited from her father. In 1845, she returned to
Concord, where she remained in great retirement, having as her only
companion a young lady whom she adopted when a child at Bromp
ton. She occasionally attended worship at the North Church, and
visited her family relatives and friends. " By her habits of economy,
the property she inherited, together with her pension of about §1000,
had accumulated to a very considerable sum at the time of her de
cease ; all of which she disposed of by will ; partly to family connec
tions, but mostly for charitable objects."
Rev. Nathaniel Bouton, in his highly valuable History of Concord,
has given an interesting sketch of the domestic and social habits and
customs of the people half a century since, part of which we extract,
176 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
as it applies with equal truth to New England life generally at that
period.
Ancient Burials. — The ancient mode of carrying coffins to the burying-ground
was to select twelve men as bearers, who carried them on a bier from every part
of the town ; sometimes the distance of six, seven and eight miles.
There is a tradition that on the death of a man on the east side of the Merri-
mac River, opposite the Rolfes, his neighbors were afraid his body would be at
tached for debt, as the law then allowed. To avoid this, the body was concealed
in the cellar for a few days; then, on the advice of Dea. George Abbot, a litter-
bier was constructed, to be carried by men on horseback; a grave was dug at sun
down on Sabbath evening, and soon after the company started with the body from
a Mr. Blanchard's house, ferried it across the river, and taking it on the litter pro
ceeded as fast as they could to the old bury ing-ground. By some delay, however,
they did not reach the spot till near sunrise, when they found the grave was too
short. Just then, discovering an officer riding on horseback up Main street, they
pitched the coffin end foremost into the grave, which they immediately began to
fill up. The officer, supposing the body to be buried, turned about and went away.
Afterward they dug the grave longer, placed the coffin in, and buried it in a proper
manner.
Lieut. John Webster, who was a famous mast-master, in his latter years was in
volved in debt. He died in a small house situated in the lot back of Mr. Ezra
Ballard's, at Little Pond. His body was first concealed in a potato hole, which
was covered over with straw, and logs laid on it. At the time of the funeral the
bearers f*ode on horseback, with drawn swords, which, the sheriff perceiving, he
dare not molest them.
Previous to 1800, there were very few carriages or wagons in town. The peo-
fle generally rode on horseback, or went on foot. There were very few sleighs.
n heavy snows, horse or ox-sleds were commonly used to convey people from one
place to another.
Dwelling Houses — Domestic and Social Habits and Customs. — The first order,
or, as it may be called, generation of dwelling houses in Concord, were built of
hewn logs. They were all situated on lots laid out in the " first and second
range" of house lots, as surveyed in 1726. But as soon as saw-mills could be
erected and materials provided, these gradually gave place to framed houses, one
story in hight, about sixteen to twenty-four feet on the ground, with from one to
three rooms. The second order of houses was more scattered over the territory;
and now and then appeared a house of larger dimensions, two stories in hight,
with gambrel roof; or two stories in front, with low, slanting roof back. The
third order of houses appeared after the revolutionary war, from 1785 to 1800.
They were built two stories, with what is called a hip-roof, with two front rooms,
a door in the middle, and entry and hall running through, and an L, one story, on
the back side, for a kitchen. Tradition represents that in the first, and many of
the second order of houses, the windows were either of paper, or mica, or dia
mond-cut glass. Chimneys were built of stone, with huge fire-places, and an oven
on one side running back. The fire was made by placing a large log, called a
back-log, three feet long, or more, on the backside of the fire-place ; two rocks in
front of it served for andirons, with a large fore-stick, resting on the rocks, and a
back-stick upon the back-log. Then smaller wood, from three to four feet in length,
was piled on. The whole was lighted with a pitch-knot, or other combustibles.
This made a glorious fire. At each end or corner of the fire-place were small
benches, on which children sat, and roasted first one side and then the other;
while the old folks enjoyed the full blaze in front, and hauled off and on, as they
were able to bear it! Instead of modern gas light, or oil, or even dipped candles,
they used in the evening pitch-pine knots, which gave a clear and brilliant light,
by which the women could see to sew or knit, and others (if they had books), to
read. Splinters of pitch-pine were lighted to carry about the house and into the
cellar, instead of lamps and candles.
In early times, every family kept close at hand a flint and steel, with which to
strike fire. The fire fell on a piece of old punk, or upon tinder kept in a tin box.
NEW HAMPSHIRE. 177
From the punk or tinder thus ignited, a candle or pitch-pine splinter was lighted,
and thence communicated to wood on the fire-place. Careful house-keepers, how
ever, took pains to rake up the coals on the hearth at night, covering them with
ashes, and thus keep fire till morning. But in warm weather this method would
often fail, so that the flint, steel and tinder were indispensable.
Ancient Wells. — Ancient wells were dug at a distance of from ten to forty feet
from the house, and water was drawn with a bucket suspended on one end of a
email pole, the other end being fastened to a long well-sweep, as it was called,
which was supported at a proper hight by a strong, erect post, and swung on an
iron or wooden pin, so balanced that when the bucket was filled with water it could
be easily drawn up. Specimens of the old fashioned well- sweep, and
" Of the old oaken bucket, that hung iii the well,"
may still be seen in various sections of the town. One of these is the present
residence of Jacob Hoyt, Esq., on the mountain, in which the old " well-sweep" is
apparent.
The frame of this house, of large, heavy oak, is believed to be the oldest on the
east side of the river. It was first erected at " the Fort," by Capt. Ebenezer East
man, a short time before his death, in 1748. The house being left in an unfinished
state, it was sold to P^benezer Virgin, taken down, and moved to its present loca
tion on the mountain. Tradition relates that at the raising of the house by Capt
Eastman, there was a great gathering of people, with "young men and maidens,"
who were to celebrate the raising by a dance in the evening. Abigail Carter,
mother of Jacob Hoyt, asked her parents if she might go. They said, u Yes, if
parson Walker's girls go." The parson consented that his daughters should go,
and proposed also to go with them. After the raising was over, Mr. Walker's girls
asked him if they might stay in the evening. He said, " Yes, yes, only come home
in good season." So the girls all stayed till the dance was over, and were then
waited on by young gentlemen to go home. But on coming to the ferry, to their
great disappointment they found the parson there waiting to take the girls under
his own protection !
Food. — The ordinary food of early settlers, and of their descendants of the first
and second generation, for breakfast and supper, was bean or pea porridge, with
bread and butter. On Sabbath morning they had, in addition, coffee or chocolate.
The bread was what is called brown bread, made of rye and Indian meal. Occasion
ally, wheat bread was used. For dinner they usually had baked or boiled meat,
and peas or beans, with baked or boiled puddings. The most approved and gen
teel way of eating the porridge was on this wise : The porridge was dipped out
into wooden bowls, each member of the family having one, and was eaten with a
wooden spoon. On the authority of my friend, George Abbot, Esq., I can add,
" That this was a delicious meal. Every father at his own table was, to appear
ance, as happy as a king with his nobles at a banquet of wine! " Often, to close
the repast, the following lines were sung or chanted by the children :
" Bean porridge hot, bean porridge cold,
Bean porridge best when nine days old I "
There was another dish, said to be a still greater luxury, viz : baked pumpkins
and milk. It was prepared in the autumn in the following manner: Take pump
kins that had hard shells ; cut a hole with a gouge in the stem end, large enough
to admit a large sized hand ; scrape out the seeds completely ; then fill the cavity
almost full of new milk; heat the oven hotter than necessary for ordinary baking;
place the pumpkins in carefully, and fasten up the lid so that no fresh air can pen
etrate ; keep them in twelve hours or more ; then, withdrawing the pumpkins,
pour into the cavity more new milk, and with a spoon begin to eat, digging out
the inside as you proceed, and leaving nothing but the shell! In this truly primi
tive mode, Gov. Langdon used to feast on pumpkin and milk, when a boarder at
Dea. John Kimball's. The governor preferred this mode, as decidedly more gen
teel than to scrape out the contents first and eat from a bowl !
Drinks. — Malt beer was a very common drink in early times. Malt was manu
factured from barley, which was raised more or less by every farmer. Cider suc
ceeded, and soon supplanted beer. This was a universal drink at every meal —
178 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
morning, noon and night. In the fall, farmers gathered their apples and made
cider. They usually laid in from fifteen to thirty barrels for a year's stock. Mr.
Reuben Abbot — now living on the old homestead, west of Long Pond — says that
he and his father used to put up sixty barrels every good year. Hon. Jacob A.
Potter says that his father Richard, and uncle Ephraim often laid in one hundred
and twenty barrels. So free was the use of cider that the Avhole quantity would
be drank up before the ensuing fall — scarcely enough left for vinegar! In old
times — and those times coming down to 1828, and still later— there were in every
neighborhood noted cider topers, who would guzzle down a quart without stopping
to breathe, and, smacking their lips, hold out the mug for one drink more! Such
fellows would go from house to house, and call in just to get a drink of cider —
carrying, wherever they went, a bloated, red face, and pot-belly. Of one sueh I
have heard it said he " would get drunk on cider-emptyings!"
From the year 1760 to 1800, rum, brandy, gin and wines of different kinds, were
used as a common beverage, more or less in every family.* Every taverner and
store-keeper in town was licensed to sell. In 1827, when the temperance reform
commenced in Concord, the writer ascertained, by careful investigation, that
the whole quantity of ardent spirits sold in town in one year (not including
wine) was about four hundred hogsheads, or forty-six thousand gallons; and, as
estimated by the traders themselves, the amount sold to the inhabitants of the town
was not less than fifteen thousand gallons; or, on an average, about four and a
half gallons a year to every man, woman and child in the town ! The cost of this
liquor to the consumers was not less than nine thousand dollars, which was more
than twice the amount of taxes the year previous for town, county and state ex
penses, and for the support of schools. One fact alone shows the extent of the
temperance reformation in Concord since that time, viz : The use of intoxicating
* The universality of the custom of using ardent spirits at that time, has been thus de
scribed by a late writer:
" What will yon take to drink?" united to a significant toss of the head, and an unmistak
able angular glance from the eye toward well filled decanters, was then a question and an
action of almost universal occurrence in every house in our land.
And then came the step up to the sideboard ; the passing of the sugar bowl and the wa
ter pitcher; the cranch and the whirl of the toddy stick in the tumbler; the decanting of
the stimulant; the pause of anticipation as the glass was held momentarily in the hand;
succeeded by the raising of the same to the lips, with the usual accompaniments of crooked
elbow, thrown back head, open mouth — all ending by the final smack of satisfaction, as the
empty goblet was laid down to make its moist, round mark on the tray.
The imbibing of alcoholic liquids was then general among the American people. They
were considered a necessity of life ; a certain panacea for all ills ; a crowning sheaf to all
blessings ; good in sickness and in health ; good in summer to dispel the heat, and in win
ter to dispel the cold ; good to help on work, and more than good to help on a frolic. So
good were they considered, that their attributed merits were fixed by pleasant names. The
first dram of tho morning was an " eye-opener ; " duly followed by the " eleven o'clocker,"
and the " four o'clocker ; " while the very last was a " night-cap ; " after which, as one laid
himself in sheets, he was supposed to drink no more that day, unless, indeed, he was unex
pectedly called up at night, when, of course, he prudently fortified himself .against taking
cold. Do n't imagine that these were all the drinks of the day — by no means. The decan
ter stood ready at all times on the sideboard ; if a friend had called, he had been welcomed
by " the social glass ; " if one had departed, a pleasant journey was tendered in " a flowing
bumper;" if a bargain had been made, it was rounded by a liquid "clincher;" if a wed
ding had come off, " a long and prosperous life " was drank to the happy pair ; if a funeral
had ensued, then alcoholic mixtures were a source of " consolation in affliction." Drinking
all the way from the cradle to the grave, seemed the grand rule. Dinah, the black nurse,
as she swaddled the new-born infant, took her dram ; and Uncle Bob, the aged gray-haired
sexton, with the weak and wattery eyes, and bent, rheumatic body, soon as he had thrown
the last spado full of earth upon the little mound over the remains of a fellow-mortal, turned
to tho neighboring bush, on which hung his green baize jacket, for a swig at the bottle;
after which he gathered up his tools, and slowly and painfully hobbled homeward, to attend
to his duties to the living. Everybody, even congressmen, drank ; and, what is queer, no
one can fix the precise date at which they left off. The deacon drank, and it is said the
parson, that good old man, after finishing a round of social visits, not unfrequently returned
*o his own dwelling so " mellowed " by the soothing influences of the *' cordial " welcome*
of his parishioners, as to really feel that this was not such a very bad. world after all.
NEW HAMPSHIRE. 379
liquors as a beverage is now as universally proscribed and relinquished as form
erly it was allowed and practiced. There is but one place in the whole town
where ardent spirits of any kind can be lawfully sold, or where they can be safely
bought, and that is by special license only, '' for medicinal and mechanical pur
poses."
The oldest form of drinking vessel was a noggin, made of wood, largest at the
top, with a wooden handle on one side. This varied in size, from one to four
quarts. Afterward, pewter or earthen mugs were used. On the table were wood
en plates and platters, or, at a later period, pewter basins, porringers and spoons,
plates and platters. When not on the table, these were displayed on an open cup
board, or shelves in the room.
As a specimen of those good old times, I can state, on the authority of Mr. Na
than K. Abbot, that the house which his father (Daniel Abbot) first built, just
south of the present one, was one story, with only one room and a chamber, which
was reached by a ladder. The room was about sixteen feet square, with a fire
place, which would take in wood eight feet long. In this one room, eleven child
ren of Mr. Abbott's were born and lived in close union. During a part of that
time, also, he accommodated his neighbor, Jonathan Emerson and wife, as board
ers, whose first child was born in the same room.
The common ancient dress of the men was a woolen coat, striped woolen frock,
tow frock, and woolen, velvet, tow, or leather breeches. The breeches, with long
stockings, were fastened at the knee with a buckle; in winter, they wore woolen
or leather buskins, and thick cow-hide shoes, fastened with buckles on the instep.
The host hats, as worn on the Sabbath, were what are now called cocked-up hats,
with three corners, and the more noted men wore wigs. Cocked-up hats contin
ued to be worn by aged, venerable men until within the memory of some of the
present generation. Those distinctly remembered as wearing them were Rev. Mr.
talker, Rev. Mr. Evans, Capt. Reuben Abbot, Capt. Joshua Abbot, Capt. Joseph
Farnum, and Col. Thomas Stickney. Col. Stickney had a hired man, named Levi
Ross, who would also put on his dignity, and march with his cocked-up hat to meet
ing every Sabbath.
The late Benjamin Pierce, when governor of the state, in 1827 and 1829, wore
his tri-cornered hat, short breeches, buckled at the knee, and high boots. The
hat was the same that he wore when general of the Hillsborough militia, and was
the last ever worn in Concord on a public occasion. This hat, and also the mili
tary coat which Gen. Pierce wore as brigade inspector of the militia of Hillsbo
rough county, at their first organization, about 1785, were deposited in the rooms
of the New Hampshire Historical Society, by Gen. Franklin Pierce, in 1840.
The ordinary outer dress of the women in summer was tow and linen gowns,
checked tyers, or aprons ; and in winter woolen gowns and aprons, thick woolen
stockings and cow-hide shoes. The clothing was of their own manufacture. Ev
ery house might truly be termed "a home factory." The females carded and spun
their wool and flax, and \vove their cloth in a hand loom. They also manufactured
cloth and made garments for their husbands, sons and brothers. They could all
understand without a commentary or dictionary, Solomon's description of a virtu
ous woman: " She seeketh wool and flax and worketh diligently with her hands;
she riseth while it is yet night, and giveth meat to her household; she girdeth her
loins with strength, and strengthoneth her arms; shelayeth her hands to the spin
dle, and her hands hold the distaff. She looketh well to the ways of her house
hold, and eateth not the bread of idleness." We credit fully the tradition of those
days in which the mothers and daughters of the first, second, and even third gen
eration, bloomed with health, strength and beauty; when their own fair hands
disdained no sort of domestic labor, and they needed no " help ; " when their most
beautiful garments of "fine linen and wool," were of their own manufacture, by
means of the hand-card and hatchel, the foot-wheel and the hand-wheel, the hand-
loom and the inkle-loom.
in those days, boys and girls — and they remained boys and girls until they were
married — generally went barefoot in the summer. Snow shoes, as they were called,
were then in common use by men, in traversing the woods, hunting, etc. The la
bor of females was almost entirely in doors. The only exception was that some-
12
180 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
times they assisted in pulling and spreading the flax, which was afterward to be
spun and woven by their hands. Nearly every fanner had a plat of ground for
flax. When dressed and twisted together in bunches, it was handed over to the
good housewife and daughters, to spin, weave, whiten, and convert into thread,
cloth and most beautiful garments. Some families, however, hired their spinning
and weaving done. Old Mrs. Elliot, now glories in it, that she spent many a day
in spinning and weaving " for Judge Walker's and Esquire Bradley's folks." Many
other women either "took in work" of this kind, or " went out" to do it.
The custom of rising and retiring early was universal. The former was at the
dawn of morning, and the latter by eight or nine in the evening. The oft-repeated
adage was,
" Early to bed and early to rise,
Will make you healthy, wealthy and wise."
" Going to meeting" as it was called, on the Sabbath, was for seventy-five years
and more the universal custom. Elderly people, who owned horses, rode double —
that is, the wife with her husband, seated on a pillion behind him, with her right
arm encircling his breast. The young people, of both sexes, went on foot from
every part of the parish. In the summer, young men usually walked barefoot, or
with shoes in hand; and the young women walked with coarse shoes, carrying a
better pair in hand, with stockings, to change before entering the meeting-house.
The usual custom of those west of Long Pond was to stop at a large pine tree at
the bottom of the hill west of Richard Bradley's, where the boys and young men
put on their shoes, and the young women exchanged their coarse shoes for a bet
ter pair, drawing on at the same time their clean white stockings. They left the
articles thus exchanged under the tree till their return, having no fea/that any
one would be guilty of such a sacrilege as to steal them on the Sabbath! In a
similar manner, the young people from the east side of the river came on foot,
crossing at Tucker's ferry, and exchanged and deposited their walking shoes under
a willow tree near Horse Shoe Pond.
Going on foot to meeting was not, however, confined to the young people. Old
Mrs. Elliot says that she "always went a-foot from her house, at the Borough,
about six miles; yes, and often carried a baby, too!" The first wife of Daniel
Abbot, daughter of Capt. Nathaniel Abbot, used to go a-footr following a path
across the woods, carrying a babe, attended by one or two children on foot. She
would go early, leave her child at her father Abbot's, attend meeting, then, with
babe in her arms, walk home. Married women from Horse Hill, a distance of
seven miles, usually walked. This practice was indeed continued as late as 1825.
The wife of the late Mr. Isaac Runnels says she has often walked from her house,
seven miles, to the old North Church, leaving a nursing babe at home. She would
start in the morning about eight, and going out of meeting immediately after ser
mon in the afternoon, walked homeward until overtaken by persons who rode on
horseback or in a wagon, and occasionally would get a ride part of the way. and
reach home at four in the afternoon.
It is remembered with pleasure that in the old meeting house the venerable old
men sat on a seat prepared for them at the base of the pulpit, wearing on their
bald heads a white linen cap in summer, and a red woolen or flannel cap in win
ter. This practice continued as late as 1825 and 1830.
The intermission was short — an hour in winter, and an hour and a half in summer.
The people all stayed, except those in the immediate vicinity ; and hence, as every
body attended the same meeting, a fine opportunity was afforded for everybody to
be acquainted. Old people now say that they used to know every person in town.
Thus public worship greatly promoted social union and good feeling throughout
the whole community.* Whatever new or interesting event occurred in one neigh
*The ordination of Mr. McFarland, in 1798, was an occasion of great interest. Tradi
tion assures us that people came together from neighboring towns, at the distance of twenty
miles and more ; that near and around the meeting house were stands, for the sale of refresh
ments, and among other necessary articles, spiritoua liquors. The procession of the ordain
ing council, from the town house to the meeting house, was attended by a band of music;
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
borhood, such us a death, birth, marriage, or any accident, became a subject of
conversation, and thus communication was kept up between the people of remote
sections, who saw each other on no other day than the Sabbath. Previous to about
1822, there was no stove to warm the meeting house. The practice then was, for
each family who thought it necessary for their comfort, to carry a small hand-
stove, made usually of perforated tin or sheet iron, fastened in a wooden frame,
about eight or nine inches square, in which was placed a little pan of coals. Those
who traveled a considerable distance would step into some house near by, before
meeting; such as Dea. Kimball's, Judge Walker's, Esq. John Bradley' s, Mr. Han-
naford's, Mr. Coffin's, or Robert Davis', and fill up their little pan with live coals.
This would keep their feet warm, and two or three dozen such stoves would, by
afternoon, give a softened temperature to the whole house. At the intermission,
the elderly people usually stepped into Dea. Kimball's, or some other hospitable
neighbor's, where they found a good tire blazing out from the great chimney, and,
forming a circle around the room, sat and conversed of the sermon, and anything
else that was fit for the Sabbath, making sure to hear and tell all the news of tin
week. There they would eat the lunch which they had brought, and one of the
boys, at the motion of his father, would bring in and pass round a mug of cider-
all relishing equally well!
On the west side of the old meeting house was, and is, a horseblock, famous for
its accommodations to the women in mounting and dismounting the horses. It
consists in a large round, flat stone, seven and a half feet in diameter, or about
twenty-two feet in circumference, raised about four feet high, with steps. Tradi
tion 8ays it was. erected at the instance of the good wives who rode on pillions,
and that they agreed to pay a pound of butter apiece to defray the expense.
Ancient Singing. — In the early period of the settlement, from 1730 until about
the time of the revolution, the singing on the Sabbath was led by some one ap
pointed for the purpose; he giving out the tune and reading two lines at a time of
the psalm or hymn which was to be sung — and the singers, with as many of the
congregation as were able, joining in the service.
When the meeting house was finished, in 1784, it was fitted up with a singers
pew in the gallery opposite the pulpit. This was a square, large pew, with a box,
or table, in the middle for the singers to lay their books on. In singing, they rose
and faced each other, forming a hollow square. At this time the chorister used,
for pitching the tune, what was called & pitch-pipe, made of wood, an inch or more
wide, somewhat in the form of a boy's whistle, but so constructed as to admit
of different keys. Under the ministry of Rev. Mr. Evans,* who was himself very
and, to crown the solemnity of the occasion, there was a splendid ball in the evening, at
Stickney's celebrated tavern 1
Just before the settlement of Mr. McFarland, the town voted " that those persons who
drive sleighs on Sunday be desired to keep on the east side of the street." At this period
there were no sidewalks, and traveling on foot was especially inconvenient in the winter.
It was Dr. McFarland's custom, during the greater part of his ministry, the first sleigh
ing each year, to give notice of the rule here introduced, from the pulpit, in these words :
tl Persons who drive sleiffhs will please to keep to the right, and let those who are a-foot have tlif.
middle of the road." It is related of Capt. Richard Ayer, who was a powerful and fearless
man, six feet or more, that being annoyed by loaded sleighs, from other towns, which would
not turn out for people going to meeting, he armed himself with a heavy staff or club, and
followed in the steps of a number of women walking in the middle of the road to meeting.
They were met by a loaded sleigh with two horses, and compelled to -turn out into the snow.
When the horses came up to Capt. Ayer, he lifted his club and told the driver to turn out.
Not heeding the warning, Capt. Ayer struck one of the horses on his forelegs and brought
him down on his knees. " There," said he, " turn out when you meet people on their way
to meeting, or I will knock you down." The custom thus became established of giving foot-
travelers the middle of the road, and for many years they enjoyed the privilege unmolested.
#Rev. Israel Evans was chaplain of Poor's New Hampshire Brigade in the revolution.
He was an ardent patriot. It is related of him that on one occasion, just before the army
was going into battle, he prayed, " 0, Lord of hosts, lead forth thy servants of the Ameri
can army to battle, and give them the victory ! or, if this be not according to thy sovereign
will, then we pray thee, stand neutral, and let Jlesh and blood decide the issue!"
He retained his military spirit even in death. In his last sickness, his successor, Rev
182 NEW HAMPSHIRE
fond of music, some instruments were introduced, which was attended with eo
much excitement and opposition that, according to tradition, some persons left the
meeting house rather than hear the profane sounds of ''the fiddle and flute."
In the families of the original settlers, and also in those of their descendants
of the second and third generation, religious order was maintained. The late aged
Mrs. Hazeltine gave the writer the names of all the families that lived on Concord
Main street when she was a little girl — about 1746 — and says they all had " family
orders" — that is, attended family prayer. Having very few books, the Bible was
daily read, and the Assembly's Shorter Catechism committed to memory and re
cited by the children, who were also trained to habits of strict submission and
obedience to parental authority. Most of the heads of families also were mem
bers of the church, either on the "half way covenant," or in full communion, and
their children were baptized. Commonly, each family had a nice \vhite blanket,
called the "baptism blanket," in which their children, in succession, were carried
out to meeting for baptism. George Abbot, Esq., and his sister Betsey, wife of
Amos Hoyt, have the white linen blanket, about a yard square, which was used as
the baptism blanket for all of Dea. George Abbot's family, nine sons, and of his
son Ezra's family, eleven in number. It has been used for the baptism of child
ren to the sixth generation, beside being borrowed for the same purpose by neigh
bors. Jt is now more than one hundred years old, and not a brack in it!
The social manners and customs of the people in early times were simple,
friendly and unceremonious. Visiting was common and frequent among neigh
bors, and often without formal invitation. When a company of neighbors was
invited, the women went early and "spent the afternoon," taking their knitting, or
other handy work, and their babies with them. Their husbands either accompa
nied them or went in season to take supper and return early in the evening. The
suppers on these occasions consisted of plain, wholesome food — new bread, pies,
doughnuts, sometimes roasted meat or turkey, with good cider for the men, and a
cup of tea for the ladies.
In the social gatherings of young people, of both sexes, dancing was a favorite
amusement. Old Mr. Herbert says, "The young folks always danced, sometimes
with a fiddle, and sometimes without; but when there was no fiddler, they sung,
and danced to the tune; " but he adds, uwe always went home by nine o'clock."
On particular occasions, such as ordinations, new year, and other times, there were
evening dancing parties, in which not only the young, but elderly and married
people participated. Although the parson, deacons, and other members of the
church did not "join in the dance, yet they would u look on," and admit that
there was '• no harm simply in dancing, though the time might be more profitably
spent."
The amusements and recreations of young men were mostly of the athletic
kind. "Playing ball" was always practiced, as it still is, in the spring and fall.
Wrestling was very common ; but this took place at social and public gatherings, es
pecially at raisings, when, after the labor of raising the building was over, stimu
lated by the good treat which all hands had received, they were disposed to show
their strength in raising or prostrating one another. First, the sport would be
gin with youngsters trying their strength in the center of a circle formed by
spectators. Then older and stronger ones would come into the ring. Wagers
would be laid, and a little more stimulant taken in would give wonderful elasticity
and strength to the parties. By and by defiant and angry words would be heard,
and it was well if &jight did not end the sport. The most famous wrestler and
tighter of old times was Ephraim Colby.* The last wrestling match that is re-
Mr. McFarland, visited, and in praying with him, asked, " that when he should be called
from this to the eternal world, he might sit down with Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, in the
kingdom of heaven." Mr. Evans, who was a great friend and ardent admirer of Washing
ton, said, " and with Washington, too t " He could not bear the idea of being separated from
Washington in the eternal world. An excellent portrait of him is still preserved. When
Gen. LaFayette visited Concord, in 1825, he was shown this portrait, and, on seeing it, im
mediately exclaimed, " It is our worthy chaplain."
*The name of Ephraim, or, as commonly called, Eph Colby, is noted in traditionary his
tory as a wrestler &n&Jighter. His parentage is not exactly known. He appears to havo
NEW HAMPSHIRE. 183
membered to have taken place in the Main street, was at the raising of Cnpt Jo
seph Walker's lari^e barn, about 1831.
It should be added that it was customary at all lar<;e raisings, after the ridge
pole was fairly in its place, for the master-workman to celebrate or dedicate the
whole, by dashing upon it a bottle of rum, with three hearty cheers from the com
pany. Atkinson Webster, Esq., says the last rum-ceremony of this kind that he
remembers, was at the raising of the first Eagle coffee-house, in 1827.
But few among our orators and statesmen have so largely arrested
the attention of their countrymen as Daniel Webster. He was born
at Salisbury, N. H., about 16 miles
north from Concord, on the 18th of
January, 1782. He died at Marsh-
field, Mass., October 24, 1852, aged
70 years.
" In 1830, he made what is gene
rally regarded as the ablest of his
parliamentary efforts, his second
speech in reply to Col. Hayne, of
South Carolina. This gentleman
had commented with severity on
the political course of the New
England States, and had laid down
in rather an authoritative manner
those views of the constitution usu-
BlRTHPLACE OF DANIEL WEBSTER. Ill -i_l J j. ' C
ally known as the doctrines ot
6 nullification.' Mr. Webster was accordingly called upon to vindi
cate New England, and to point out the fallacies of nullification. The
records of modern eloquence contain nothing of superior force and
beauty." It was in the course of this speech he said:
" Mr. President, I shall enter on no encomium upon Massachusetts, — she needs none.
There she is, — behold her and judge for yourselves. There is her history, — the world
knows it by heart. The past, at least, is secure. There is Boston, and Concord, and Lex
ington, and Bunker Hill ; and there they will remain forever. The bones of her sons,
fallen in the great struggle for independence, now lie mingled with the soil of every state,
been an ensign in Capt. Abbot's company, 1774, in the war of the revolution, and spent
most of his days in Concord. He was rather short, but a stout, broad-shouldered fellow,
and was the " bully " of all the region, far and near. He served some time in town as a
constable. He was sure to be present at all public gatherings, and gloried in such occasions
as raisings and military musters. When a large building was to be raised, it was custom
ary to send an invitation to the strong and stout, men of neighboring towns — such as the
Heads and Knoxes of Pembroke, the Chamberlains of Loudon, Ly fords and Cloughs of
Canterbury, and Jackmans and Flanders of Boscawen. When the raising was completed,
they had a wrestling match ; and after all others who chose had entered the lists, and tried
their strength, then Colby would step forward and defy them all. Being all well stimulated
and warmed up with rum, that was free as water at such times, it was not uncommon to end
the wrestling sport with a serious fight. Colby at such times was insolent and provoking.
No one liked to engage him alone, and yet they could not well brook his insults. At the
raising of Major Livermore's house, 1785, Colby got into a quarrel with the Elliots, from
the Borough — Joseph and his two sons, Barnard and John. The two latter attacked him
together. John sprung upon him like a cat, clasping him around the waist, while Barnard
seized him behind. In the wrestle, they all fell together, when John Elliot bit Colby's noso
half off. Pained and infuriated by the bite on his nose, Colby rose, shook John oft' and
dashed him on the ground ; then, seizing Barnard by his neck and bottom of his pants,
tossed him head first into West's Brook ; and turning, kicked the old man off the ground.
Colby worked a number of years for the Walker family. He said that " Parson Walker
was the only man the Almighty ever made that he was afraid of."
184 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
from New England to Georgia; and there they will lie forever And, sir, where American
liberty raised its first voice, and where its youth was nurtured and sustained, there it still lives
in the strength of its manhood, and full of its original spirit. If discord and disunion shall
wound it, — if party strife and blind ambition shall hawk at and tear it; if folly and mad
ness, if uneasiness, under salutary and necessary restraint, shall succeed to separate it from
that Union, by which alone its existence ig made sure, it will stand in the end by the sido
of that cradle in which its infancy was rocked; it will stretch forth its arm with whatever
of vigor it may still retain over the friends who gather round it: and it will fall at last, if
fall it must, amidst the proudest monuments of its own glory, and on the very spot of its
origin."
" It is said that a large number of New Englanders were sitting together
in the hall, regarding their noble champion with intensest interest, and that
as he closed the foregoing, with his glowing eye fixed upon them, '•they shed
tears like girh.'
Meeting Hayne with most powerful arguments upon every issue embraced
in the resolution, he finally came to his remarks upon disunion. Elevated
to the highest pitch of moral grandeur, his chest heaving with the emotions
of his soul, he delivered the following high sentiments, — sentiments which
the world knows ' by heart.' "
"I profess, sir, in my career hitherto to have kept steadily in view the prosperity and
honor of the whole country, and the preservation of our federal union. It is to that union
we owe our safety at home, and our consideration and dignity abroad. It is to that union
that we are chiefly indebted for whatever makes us most proud of our country. That union
we reached only by the discipline of our virtues, in the severe school of adversity. It had
its origin in the necessities of disordered finance, prostrate commerce, and ruined credit.
Under its benign influences, these great interests immediately awoke, as from the dead,
and sprang forth with newness of life. Every year of its duration has teemed with fresh
proofs of its utility and its blessings ; and although our territory has stretched out wider
and wider, and our population spread further and further, they have not outrun its protec
tion, or its benefits. It has been to us all a copious fountain of national, social, and per
sonal happiness.
I have not allowed myself, sir, to look beyond the union, to see what might lie hidden in
the dark recess behind. I have not coolly weighed the chances of preserving liberty, when
the bonds that unite us together shall be broken asunder. I have not accustomed myself
to hang over the precipice of disunion to see whether, with my short sight, I can fathom
the depth of the abyss below ; nor could I regard him as a safe counselor in the affairs of
this government, whose thoughts should be mainly bent on considering, not how the union
should be best preserved, but how tolerable might be the condition of the people when it
shall be broken up and destroyed.
While the union lasts, we have high, exciting, gratifying prospects spread out before us,
for us and our children. Beyond that I seek not to penetrate the veil. God grant that, in
my day, at least, that curtain may not rise. God grant that on my vision never may be
opened what lies behind. When my eyes shall be turned to behold, for the last, time, the
sun in heaven, may I not see him shining on the broken and dishonored fragments of a
once glorious union ; on states dissevered, discordant, belligerent; on a land rent with civil
feuds, or drenched, it may be, in fraternal blood 1 Let their la?t feeble and lingering
glance rather behold the gorgeous ensign of the republic, now known and honored through
out the earth, still full high advanced, its arms and trophies streaming in their original
luster, not a stripe erased or polluted, nor a single star obscured, — bearing for its motto no
such miserable interrogatory as, What is all this worth? Nor those other words of delu
sion and folly — Liberty first, and union afterward — but everywhere, spread till over in charac
ters of livitty lit/lit, bluziny on all its ample folds, as they Jioat over the sea atid over the land, and
•in every wind under the whole heavens, that other sentiment dear to every true AMERICAN heart —
LIBERTY AND UNION NOW AND FOREVER, ONE AND INSEPARABLE ! "
Such was the close of what is doubtless WEBSTER'S master- piece. Its de
livery produced an effect upon his listeners never surpassed in the history of
parliamentary debate. It is said, when ;' the speech was over, the tones of
the orator still lingered upon the ear, and the audience, unconscious of the
close, retained their positions. The agitated countenance, the heaving breast,
the suffused eye, attested the continued influence of the spell upon them.
Hands that in the excitement of the moment had sought each other, still re
mained closed in an unconscious grasp. Eye still turned to eye to receive
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
185
and repay mutual sympathy, and seemed forgetful of all but the orator's
presence and words. The New Englanders, it is said, after adjournment,
walked down Pennsylvania Avenue, with a firmer step and bolder air, — 'pride
in their port, defiance in their eye.' * * * Not one of them but felt he
had gained a personal victory. Not one who was not ready to exclaim :
'Thank God, I too am a Yankee.' "
Speaking of his feelings toward his antagonist during the delivery of this
splendid oration, Webster himself said: "I felt as if everything I had ever
seen, or read, or heard, was floating before me in one grand panorama, and I
had little else to do than to reach up and cull a thunderbolt and hurl it at
him." Being congratulated as the author of a speech that would live through
all coming time, he said: "How I wish my poor brother (Ezekiel) had lived
till after fJtis speech^ that I might know if lie would have been gratified." He
never lost his affection for that only brother, nor ceased to mourn his early
decease.
Western View of Manchester.
[The engraving shows the appearance of some of the principal cotton mills as seen from the western
bank of Merrimac llivor. The Stark Mills and the foundry appear on the left. Three of the five mills of
the Amoskeag Mills arc seen on the right. The city lies immediately in rear of the mills ; the tower of
the city hall appears back of one of the Stark Mills.]
MANCHESTER, one of the shire towns of Hillsborough county, is the
largest city in New Hampshire, containing about 20,000 inhabitants.
It is situated, principally, on the east side of Merrimac River, 17
miles from Concord, 18 from Nashua, 112 from Portland, 58 from
Boston, and 218 from Albany, New York. This place, but a few
years since a little better than a barren sand bank, is now converted
into a well built city, presenting an array of splendid buildings sel
dom exceeded.
The Amoskeag Falls, between Manchester and Goffstown, are the
largest on the Merrimac. At the ordinary stage of water, the fall to
the foot of the locks is 47 feet, and the whole fall in the distance of a
mile is 54 feet. A permanent stone dam is erected across the river,
at the head of the falls, and on the east side, guard gates of the most
186 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
substantial kind are constructed, through which the water passes into
a spacious basin, connected with the upper canal for the use of the
mills, and, with the Amoskeag Canal, which was built in 1816, for the
purposes of navigation. The fall from the upper into the lower canal
is 20 feet, and from the latter into the river varies from 20 to 30 feet.
The water power is estimated to be sufficient to drive 216,000 spin
dles, with all the machinery sufficient to manufacture cloth. The
cloth is manufactured at the rate of 38,000 yards (22 miles) daily.
Beside the above, numerous other establishments here, turn out a very
great amount of various kinds of manufactures.
Manchester was originally taken from Londonderry, Chester, and a portion of a
tract called Harry town, and incorporated in 1751, by the name of Derry field,
which was changed to its present name in 1810. The city of Manchester was in
corporated in June, 1846. It commenced its rise about the year 1839, at which
period the locality, now occupied by the city, contained no more than 50 inhabi
tants. The city is on a plain about 90 feet above the river; the streets are on a
large scale: Elm, the main street, running more than a mile north and south, is
emphatically the "Broadway" of Manchester. Four large squares have been laid
out in different parts of the city stocked with trees; in two of which are ponds,
which add much to their beauty. There are some 12 or 15 religious societies,
some of which have spacious and expensive houses. An atheneum was estab
lished in 1844, and has about 6.000 volumes. The company's reservoir contains
11,000,000 gallons, situated 150 feet above the river, supplies the mills and board
ing houses with water; it is located about one mile from the City Hall. Tho
Manchester Gas Light Company commenced operations in 1852. Everything per
taining is of the most substantial kind, on a large scale, and in beauty of architec
ture, substantial finish, and skillful arrangements of machinery for the ends pro
posed, are superior to any other works in New England.
Londonderry, a farming town, is situated six miles south-east from
Manchester. It formerly included the present town of Derry, and
was settled in 1719, by a colony of Scotch Presbyterians, from the
vicinity of Londonderry, in Ireland. These settlers, it is said, intro
duced the culture of potatoes — a vegetable until then unknown in
New England; "and the farmer who laid by three bushels for his win
ter's stock, felt that he had an abundant supply. At the time of set
tlement (1719), sixteen families, accompanied by Rev. James JMcGre-
gore, took possession of the tract, and on the day of their arrival, at
tended religious services under an oak on the east shore of Beaver
Pond."
Rev. Matthew C/ar/c, second uiin'sterof Londonderry, was a native of Ireland,
who, in early life, had been an officer in the army, and distinguished himself in
the defense of the city of Londonderry when besieged by the army of King James,
in 1688-9. He afterward relinquished a military life for the clerical profession.
He died in 1785, and was borne to the grave, at his particular request, by his for
mer companions in arms, of whom there were a considerable number among the
early settlers of this town; several of these had been made free from taxes
throughout the British dominions, by King William, for their bravery during that
memorable seige.
This town has furnished quite a number of distinguished men: among these
are Maj. Gen. John Stark, and Col. George Reid, of revolutionary memory. Jo
seph M. Keen, DD. the first president of Bowdoin College ; Arthur Livermore,
Jonathan Steele, and Samuel Bell, judges of the superior court were born here.
Among the descendants of the early settlers, are the Hon. Jeremiah Smith, Gens.
NEW HAMPSHIRE. 137
Miller and McNiel, distinguished officers in the war of] 81 2, and Matthew Thorn
ton, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence.
Gen. John Stark was born at Londonderry, Aug. 28, 1728. Hig
father lies buried in an ancient burying ground on the banks of the
Merrimac, having on his monument the following inscription :
" Here lies the body of Mr. ARCHEBALD STARK. He departed this life June 25, 1758.
Aged 61 years."
He was born at Dumbarton, and was a graduate of the University
at Edinburg, and removed into the vicinity of Londonderry, Ireland,
from whence he emigrated to New England, and settled at London
derry. In 1736, he moved to a place " little north and east of the
Falls of Namaoskeag." His four sons, John, William, Archibald and
Samuel, were all "soldiers in the Indian wars," and noted "trap
pers." It was in this last employment far in the wilderness, that
John was taken prisoner by the St. Francis Indians in 1752. He
was compelled to undergo the ceremony of running the gauntlet, up
on which he snatched a club from the hands of an Indian, and made
his way through the lines, knocking down the Indians right and left,
and escaped with scarce a blow. He was redeemed from captivity at
a great ransom.
In 1756, John Stark was made captain of Rangers under the famous Maj.
Robert Rogers, and in the bloody fight near Ticonderoga, in Jan. 1759, Rogers
being twice wounded, the command devolved on Stark. Rogers, in the desperate
situation they were in, advised a retreat; but Stark, assuming the command, de
clared he would shoot the first man that fled. While Stark was speaking, a ball
broke the lock of his gun; at the same time observing a Frenchman fall, he sprang
forward, seized his gun, returned to his place, and continued the light.
In 1775, on hearing of the affair at Lexington, Stark repaired to Cambridge.
He was at once commissioned colonel, and the same day SOU men, most of whom had
followed him from New Hampshire, enlisted to serve under him. With these
men, he met the enemy on Bunker's Hill. On the approach of Burgoyne, in 1777,
Stark hurried from his farm, on the Merrimac. and rallied his followers at Ben-
nington. On the 19th of August, Stork's u Green Mountain Boys" were eager to
be led against the foe.*" Before they marched to the encounter, the general called
#Says Bouton, in his history of Concord, "When the news of Burgoyne's expedition
reached New Hampshire, the general assembly, which had closed its spring session, was
immediately recalled. John Langdon was speaker of the house. Col. Hutchins was rep
resentative from Concord. The highest enthusiasm prevailed. It was understood that Gen.
John Stark, who had retired to his farm in affront, because he had been superseded in the
continental service, would take command of any volunteers that New Hampshire Avould
raise, and inarch at once to the scene of danger. Accordingly he received a commission of
brigadier-general from the New Hampshire government. John Langdon, in the ardor of
his patriotism, said — ' I have £3,000 in money, and 50 hogsheads of rum ; and I will pawn
my house and plate for all they are worth, if Gen. Stark will take command of the New
Hampshire troops to cut oft" Burgoyne;' adding, 'If we gain our independence I shall bo
repaid; if not, it matters not what becomes of my property.' As soon as it was decided to
raise volunteer companies and place them under command of Gen. Stark, Col. Hutchins
mounted his horse, and traveling all night, with all possible haste, reached Concord on
Sabbath afternoon, before the close of public service. Dismounting at the meeting-house
door, he walked up the aisle of the church while Mr. Walker was preaching. Mr. Walker
paused in his sermon, and said — ' Col. Hutchins, are you the bearer of any message?'
'Yes/ replied the Colonel: ' Gen. Burgoyne, with his army, is on his march to Albany.
Gen. Stark has offered to take the command of New Hampshire men ; and, if we all turn
out, we can cut off Burgoyne's march.' Whereupon Rev. Mr. Walker said — ' My hearers,
those of you who are willing to go, better leave at once.' At which word all the men in
the meeting-house rose and went out. Many immediately enlisted. The whole night wag
spent in preparation, and a company was ready to march next day. Phinehas Virgin said:
188 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
the attention of the soldiers to himself, his speech was 8hort but much to the
point. "J507/S," said he, "there's the enemy. They must be beat, or this night my
wife sleeps a widow! Forward, boys! March ! "
The victory was complete, 750 of the enemy were taken prisoners, and 207 of
the enemy were killed, among whom was Col. Baum, then commander. Stark lost
but 30 killed, and 40 wounded. Congress, immediately on hearing of the battle,
appointed him brigadier-general in the continental army, in which he continued
until the close of the war. After the peace, he declined all public employment.
He lived to a great age, dying May 8, 1822, aged 93 years. A granite shaft marks
the place of his interment, on the east bank of the Merrimac, inscribed only with
his name, "MAJOR-GENERAL STARK."
Dover, the county seat of Strafford county, is 40 miles E. from Con
cord, 12 N. W. of Portsmouth, and 68 from Boston. It is situated
at the head of navigation, on the Cocheco River, 12 miles from the
ocean, in the midst of a rich and fertile country. It contains nine
churches, three banks and about 9,000 inhabitants. It received a
city charter in 1855. The Cocheco Manufacturing Company com
menced operations in 1822; it possesses a capital of §1,300,000, and has
four large cotton mills from five to seven stories high, in which it
employs 1,500 operatives, and manufactures about 10,000,000 yards of
cloth annually (5,681 miles) ; other important manufacturing estab
lishments are also in the place.
Dover was first settled in 1623, and may be considered the oldest town in New
Hampshire. The first settlers, William and Edsvard Hilton, located themselves
in the lower extremity of Dover Neck. They were joined, in 1633, by about 30
persons under the charge of Capt. Thomas Wiggins, agent for the proprietor who
acted as governor, and also as clerk ; and the town was a distinct government. After
much internal dissention, it was received under the Massachusetts government, in
1641, and so remained until 1679, when New Hampshire was erected into a sepa
rate province. The first minister of Dover was Rev. William Leveridge sent over
by the proprietors in 1633. The first church was erected on Dover Neck, the
same year. In 1667, it was surrounded by fortifications, the remains of which
are still visible.
Dover suffered severely during the Indian wars. The first difficulty
occurred Avhen Maj. Waldron, in obedience to orders from Boston,
captured, nt Dover, in 1675, in a "sham fight/*' over 200 Indians, who
had been engaged in a war with Massachusetts, a part of whom were
sold into slavery. It also appears that Maj. Waldron, or some one
in his employ, had taken great advantage of them in trade, not cross
ing out their accounts when they paid them; arid that in buying
beaver the trader's fist weighed a pound. The Indians suppressed
their vengeance for several years, when, on the night of June 27,
1689, it broke forth at Cocheco Falls. Waldron and 22 others were
killed, and 29 carried into captivity. The following account is from
Drake's History of the Indians:
Maj. Waldron lived at Dover, then called by its Indian name, Quochecho, in
New Hampshire, in a strong garrison-house, at which place were also four others.
Kankarnagus had artfully contrived a stratagem to effect the surprise of the place,
and had others besides the Pennakook from different places ready in great num-
' I can't go, for I have no shoes:' to which Samuel Thompson, a shoe maker, replied —
'Don't be troubled about that, for you shall have a pair bei'ore morning,' which was done.
The late Jonathan Eastman, Sr. Esq., was in similar want of shues, and a new pair was
also made for him before morning."
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
189
bers, to prosecute the undertaking. The plan was this: Two squaws were sent
to each garrison-house to get liberty to stay for the night, and when all should be
asleep, they were to open the gates to the warriors. Masandowet, who was next
to Kankamagus, went to Maj. Waldron'a, and informed him that the Indians would
come the next day and trade with him. While at supper with the major, Masan
dowet said to him, with an air of familiarity. "Brother Waldron, what would you
do if the strange Indians should come?" To which he vauntingly replied, "that
he could assemble 100 men by lifting up his finger." In this security the gates
were opened at midnight, and the work of death raged in all its fury. One garri
son only escaped, who would not admit the squaws. They rushed into Waldron's
house in great numbers, and while some guarded the door, others commenced the
slaughter of all who resisted. Waldron was now 80 years of age, yet, seizing his
sword, defended himself with great resolution, and at first drove the Indians be
fore him from room to room, until one getting behind him, knocked him down
with his hatchet. They now seized upon, and dragged him into the great room,
and placed him in an armed chair upon a table. While they were thus dealing
with the master of the house, they obliged the family to provide them a supper,
which, when they had eaten, they took off his clothes, and proceeded to torture
him in the most dreadful manner. Some gashed his breast with knives, saying,
" I cross out my account;" others cut off joints of his fingers, and said to him,
" Now will your fist weigh a pound? "
After cutting off his nose and ears, and forcing them into his mouth, he became
faint from loss of blood; and some holding his own sword on end upon the floor,
let him fall upon it, and thus ended his misery.
Central part of Nashua (North View).
[The annexed view shows the appearance of the central part of Nashua, as seen from the hall over the
Nashua and Boston depot, on the north bank of the Nashua Paver, by the bridge. The first Congregation
al Church and the tower of the city hall, appear on the left. A part of the Nashua Cotton Mills are seen in
the distance, on the right.]
NASHUA, originally called Dunstable, is situated on both sides of
Nashua River and the W. bank of the Merrimac, 35 miles S. from
Concord, and 40 N. W. from Boston. It has nine churches, three
banks, and has schools and academies of a high order. Population is
about 11,000. In 1842, in consequence of some difficulty in locating
a town house, a portion of the town petitioned to be set off. The
190
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
legislature granted the petition, and they were incorporated into a
new town, by the name of Nashville. In 1853, a charter was granted
by which these towns were re-united under a city government.
Nashua is distinguished for the variety and extent of her manufac
tures. Her cotton mills do a large business, and also her artificers
in wood and iron, leather, cards, and paper, builders of machines,
makers of edge tools, locks, etc.
The original Dunstable embraced a large extent of territory. It
was the earliest settlement in the southern part of New Hampshire.
It was a frontier for 50 years, and as such was exposed to Indian
attacks. In 1675, during Philip's war, it was abandoned. In 1691,
several persons were killed in this town by the Indians. In 1724,
two persons were captured and carried away. A party of 11 started
in pursuit, but were soon waylaid by the Indians, and 10 of them
killed. The only survivor was Josiah Farwell, who was the next year
lieutenant in Lovewell's expedition.
South View of the central part of Keene.
fThe Correlational Church is seen in the central part in the distance, fronting the square ; the Cho
ehire Hou^e on the right: the passenger depot of the railroad on the left.]
In 1725, Capt. John Lovewell, of this town, raised a company of
volunteers, and marched northward in pursuit of the enemy. In his
first expedition, they killed one Indian and took one prisoner; in his
second excursion they killed 10 Indians, but in his third expedition
he fell into an ambuscade at LovewelFs Pond, in Fryeburg, Maine.
Capt. Lovewell, Lieut. Farwell, and Ensign Robbins, all of this town,
were killed, as also the chaplain Mr. Frye and 12 others. In the
conflict, the noted chief Paugus was killed; the power of the Indians
was broken forever, arid song and romance have embalmed the
memory of the heroes of " Lovewell's fight."
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
KEENE, the seat of justice for Cheshire county, New Hampshire, is
beautifully situated on a flat, E. of Ashuelot River, at the junction of
the Ashuelot and Cheshire Railroads, 55 miles from Concord, and 93
N. W. from Boston. The village is well built, and is one of the most
lourishing in the state ; it contains the county buildings, four
churches, several fine schools, and the inhabitants are distinguished
for their intelligence and enterprise, and are extensively engaged in
the various branches of trade and manufactures. Population about
3,000.
Keene was first settled under the authority of Massachusetts. At
that time the line between that colony and New Hampshire had not
been surveyed, but it was generally supposed that the valley of the
Ashuelot would fall within the boundaries of the former. The town
was originally called Upper Ashuelot; it was incorporated by its
present name in 1753, in honor of Sir Benjamin Keene, who was
minister from England to Spain about this period. In the charter
granted, a reservation is made of "all the white, and other pine trees,
fit for masting the royal navy, and of a rent of one ear of Indian corn,
annually, until 1763, and afterward, of one shilling, proclamation
money for every hundred acres."
The first house erected, appears to have been that of Nathan Blake,
in 1736. In the summer of this year, Nathan Blake, Seth Ilcaton,
and William Sneed, the two first from Wrentham, and the last from
Deerfield, Massachusetts, made preparations to pass the winter in the
wilderness. Blake had a pair of oxen and a horse, and for their sup
port they collected grass in the open spots. In the beginning of
February, their provisions were exhausted, and to obtain a supply of
meal, Heaton was dispatched to Northfield, 20 miles distant. He pro
cured a quantity, and on returning through Winchester, the snow
was uncommonly deep and covered with a sharp crust. He was told
" that he might as well expect to die in Northfield, and rise again in
Upper Ashuelot, as to ride thither on horseback." He, however, deter
mined to make the attempt, but had proceeded only a short distance
when he found it impossible to succeed. He then returned, and di
rected his course toward Wrentham. Blake and Sneed hearing nothing
from Heaton, gave the oxen free access to the hay, left Ashuelot and
on snow-shoes proceeded either to Deerfield or Wrentham. They re
turned early in the spring, and found the oxen much emaciated, feed
ing upon twigs and such grass as was bare. The oxen recognized
their owners, and exhibited such pleasure at the meeting, as to draw
tears from their eyes.
The following incidents in the succeeding history of Keene, are
extracted from Hole's Annals of the town of Keene :
"In 1745, the Indians killed Josiah Fisher, a deacon of the church. In 1746,
they attacked the fort, the only protection of the inhabitants. They were, how
ever, discovered by Capt. Ephraim Dorman in season to prevent their taking it
He was attacked by two Indians, but defended himself successfully against them,
and reached the fort. An action ensued, in which John Bullard was killed, Mra.
M'Kenny, who, being out of the fort, was stabbed, and died, and Nathan Blake
192 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
taken prisoner, and carried to Canada, where he remained two years. Mr. Blako
afterward returned to Keene, Avhere he lived until his death, in 1811, at the age
of 99 years and 5 months. When he was 94, he married a widow of 60. The
Indians burnt all the buildings in the settlement, including the meeting-house.
The inhabitants continued in the fort until April, 1747, when the town was aban
doned. In 1753, they returned, and re-commenced their settlements. In 1755,
the Indians again attacked the fort. Their number was great, and the onset
violent, but the vigilance and courage of Capt. Syms successfully defended it.
After burning several buildings, killing cattle, etc., they withdrew. They again
invaded the town, but with little success.
Col. Isaac Wyman, an active and influential man, marched the first detachment
of men from this town, in the war of the revolution, and was present at the battle
of Breed's HilL This company consisted of 30 men. The list of the foot com
pany in Keene at this time numbered 126 men; the alarm list, 45.
In the early part of the year 1746, the General Court of Massachusetts sent a
party of men to Canada, for what purpose it is not now recollected, and, perhaps,
was not generally known. On their return they passed through Upper Ashuelot,
now Keene. On arriving in sight of the settlement, they fired their guns. This,
of course, alarmed the inhabitants, and all who were out (and several were in the
woods, making sugar) hastened home. From some cause or other, suspicions were
entertained that a party of Indians had followed the returning whites ; and for
several days the settlers were more vigilant and more circumspect in their move
ments, seldom leaving the fort except to look after the cattle, which were in the
barns, and at the stacks in the vicinity.
Early in the morning of the 23d of April, Ephraim Dormer left the fort to
search for his cow. He went northwardly, along the borders of what was then a
hideous and almost impervious swamp, lying east of the fort, until he arrived near
to the place where the turnpike now is. Looking into the swamp, he perceived
several Indians lurking in the bushes. He immediately gave the alarm by crying
"Indians! Indians!" and ran toward the fort. Two, who were concealed in the
bushes between him and the fort, sprang forward, aimed their pieces at him, and
fired, but neither hit him. They then, throwing away their arms, advanced
toward him. One he knocked down by a blow, which deprived him of his senses ;
the other he seized, and, being a strong man and an able wrestler, tried his
strength and skill in his favorite mode of ''trip and twitch." He tore his anta
gonist's blanket from his body, leaving him nearly naked. He then seized him by
the arms and body ; but, as he was painted and greased, he slipped from his grasp.
After a short struggle, Dormer quitted him, ran toward the fort, and reached it in
safety.
When the alarm was given, the greater part of the inhabitants were in the fort,
but some had just gone out to tend their cattle. Capt. Simons, the commander,
as was the custom every morning before prayers, was reading a chapter in the
Bible. He immediately exclaimed, " Rush out, and assist those who are to get
in! " Most of the men immediately rushed out, and each ran where his interest
or affections led him ; the remainder chose positions in the fort, from which they
could fire on the enemy.
Those who were out, and within hearing, instantly started for the fort, and the
Indians from every direction rushed into the street, filling the air with their
horrid yells. Mrs. M'Kenney had gone to a barn, near where Miss Fiske's house
now stands, to milk her cow. She was aged and corpulent, and could only walk
slowly. When she was within a few rods of the fort, a naked Indian, probably
the one with whom Dorman had been wrestling, darted from the bushes on the
east side of the street, ran up to her, and stabbed her in the back, and crossed to
the other side. She continued walking, in the same steady pace as before, until
she had nearly reached the gate of the fort, when the blood gushed from her
mouth, and she fell and expired. John Bullard was at his barn, below Dr.
Adams'. He ran toward the fort, but the instant he arrived at the gate, he re
ceived a shot in the back. He fell, and was carried in, and expired in a few
hours. Mrs. Clark was at a barn, near the Todd House, about fifty rods distant
Leaving it, she espied an Indian near her, who threw away his gun, and advanced
NEW HAMPSHIRE. 193
to make her prisoner. She gathered her clothes around her waist, and started for
the fort. The Indian pursued. The woman, animated by the cheers of her
friends, outran her pursuer, who skulked back for his gun. Nathan Blake was at
his barn, near where his son's house now stands. Hearing the cry of Indians,
and presuming his barn would be burnt, he determined that his cattle should not
be burnt with" it. Throwing open his stable door, he let them out; and, presum
ing that his retreat to the fort was cut off, went out of the back door, intending to
Elace himself in ambush at the only place where the river could be crossed. He
ad gone but a few steps when he was hailed by a party of Indians, concealed in
a shop between him and the street. Looking back, he perceived several guns
pointed at him, and at the same instant several Indians started up from their
places of concealment near him; upon which, feeling himself in their power, he
gave himself up. They shook hands with him ; and to the remark he made that
he had not yet breakfasted, they, smiling, replied, that " it must be a poor English
man who could not go to Canada without his breakfast." Passing a cord around
his arms above the elbows, and fastening them close to his body, they gave him
to the care of one of the party, who conducted him to the woods.
The number of Indians belonging to the party was supposed to be about 100.
They came near the fort on every side, and fired whenever they supposed their
shot would be effectual. They, however, neither killed nor wounded any one.
The whites fired whenever an Indian presented himself, and several of them were
seen to fall. Before noon, the savages ceased firing, but they remained several
days in the vicinity.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the
village cemetery :
Death loves a lofty mark. — Here lies the body of the HON. PELEG SPRAGUE, ESQ. He
was born at Eochester, Mass., December 10, 1756, graduated at Dartmouth College in the
yeai 1783; settled as a lawyer in Keene, in July, 1787, was chosen a member of congress,
U. S., in the year 1797, and died April 20, 1800, in the 44th year of his age.
What though we wade in wealth, or soar in fame,
Earth's highest station ends in " Here he lies,"
And (< dust to dust" concludes her noblest song.
CATHERINE FISKE, founder and principal of the Female Seminary in Keene, N. H., and
for 38 years a teacher of youth, died May 20, 1837, aged 53. Reader, whoever thou art,
"Do justly, love mercy, and walk humbly with thy God."
To the memory of CAPT. CHARLES B. DANIELS, born August 30, 1816, graduated at the
U. S. Military Academy, June, 1836, was mortally wounded while gallantly leading his
company in the assault of the enemy's works at Molino-Del-Rey, Mexico, Sep. 8, 1847, and
died of his wounds in the city of Mexico, Oct. 27, 1847, aged 31 years. By the purity of
his life, and fidelity to the duties of his profession, he adorned it — by his valor he fulfilled
its sternest demands.
WILLIAM TORRENCE, aged 39, born in Enfield, Massachusetts, December 1, 1815, graduated
at Amherst College in 1844, for years instructor of Keene Academy, and the first principal
of the High School, died February 3, 1855, universally lamented. The pure in heart shall
see God. — His pupils in grateful remembrance of his virtues have erected this monument.
Hanover, Grafton county, N. H., lies 52 miles N. from Concord, and
about one mile E. from the railroad depot at Norwich, Vermont, on
the opposite bank of the Connecticut River. The township was
granted July 4, 1761, to eleven persons by the name of Freeman,
and 54 others, principally from Connecticut. The first settlement
was made by Col. Edmund Freeman in May, 1765 : the first minister
was Rev. Eden Burroughs, D.D., installed in 1772. The principal
village is in the S. W. part of the town, on a beautiful plain about
half a mile E. of Connecticut River, 180 feet above the level of its
waters. Here is situated Dartmouth College, ujftm a central square
194
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
or green of about 7 acres. The village which is built around it has
two churches, one Congregational, and one Episcopal, and about 1,000
inhabitants.
Western view of Dartmouth College, Hanover.
[Dartmouth Hall appears in the central part. Reed Hall on the right. The Medical College ivnd tht
Observatory in the distance, on the extreme left.]
Dartmouth College, one of the oldest and most nourishing institu
tions of the kind in the United States, was founded by Dr. Eleazer
Wheelock, of Connecticut, who graduated at Yale College in 1723.
"Soon after leaving college, he entered into the ministry, and soon received an
unanimous invitation to become pastor of the second society in Lebanon (now
Columbia), with which he complied. While a minister in this place, he became
desirous to employ himself in a more extended field of action. The unhappy and
neglected tribes of Indians in the county, and on its borders, excited his compas
sion and engaged his attention. About this time (1741), Sampson Occum, a serious
Indian youth, solicited instruction, as Mr. Wheelock had opened a school for a
small number of young men who were preparing for college. He willingly re
ceived young Occum into his fhmily and school, where he continued for about
three years. He afterward became a preacher of considerable celebrity. Dr.
Wheelock conceived, that if ho could educate Indian youth for missionaries, they
would be more successful among their countrymen than the whites. With these
views, he undertook himself the care and expense of educating two Indian lads
from the Delaware nation, in 1754; but the design was so benevolent, that a
number of gentlemen soon united with him. His pupils increased, and after re
ceiving numerous benefactions, the largest of which was the benefaction of Mr.
Joshua Moor, of Mansfield, he called his institution 'Moor's Indian Charity
School." In 1764, the school consisted of about thirty scholars, of whom about
half were Indian youth. The Indian boys were accommodated in apart of the house
given by Mr. Moor. The school-house was nigh Mr. Wheelock's dwelling, in the
hall of which the students and their instructors attended morning and evening
prayers.
To enlarge the power of doing good, contributions were solicited not only in
various parts of this country, but also in England and Scotland. The money col-
NEW HAMPSHIRE. 105
lected in England was put into the hands of a board of trustees, of whom the Earl
of Dartmouth was at the head. From this circumstance, when Dr. Wheelock was
invited by the government of New Hampshire to remove to Hanover, and estab
lish a college in that place, it was called Dartmouth College. This seminary was
incorporated in 1769, and Dr. Wheelock was declared its founder and president,
with the right of appointing his successor.
In 1770, Dr. Wheelock removed his family and school to Hanover, his pupils
performing the tour on foot. The roads at that period were in a very rough and
unfinished state, and it was in many places difficult to proceed. The site selected
for the college and other buildings, Vas an extensive plain, shaded by lofty pines,
with no accommodations, except two or three small log huts, and no house on that
side of the river within two miles, through one continued dreary wood. The
number of souls then with him was about seventy. Log houses were soon con
structed, and a small framed house was begun, designed for the reception of Dr.
Wheelock and his family. The frame of a college, eighty feet in length and two
stories in hight, was soon after raised, and partially covered : a hall, and two or
three rooms in it, were considerably advanced when the autumnal storms com
menced. . . . Upon a circular area of about six acres, the pines were soon
felled, and in all directions covered the ground to the hight of about five feet.
Paths of communication were cut through them. . . . The snow lay four feet
in depth between four and five months. ' Sometimes standing in the open air, at
the head of his numerous family, Dr. Wheelock presented to God their morning
and evening prayers: the surrounding forests, for the first time, reverberated the
solemn sounds of supplication and praise.' "
President Wheelock died in 1779, and was succeeded in the college government
by his son John Wheelock, who had been a tutor: after which he led a military
life with Stark and Gates, until his father's death recalled him from the army.
Jn 1782, he was sent by the trustees to Europe for the collection of funds, etc.,
for the benefit of the college. He was successful in his exertions abroad, and at
home on his return. After thirty-six years passed in this position, his connection
with the institution was violently closed.
The college was managed by a body of trustees, created by the charter, who
filled vacancies in their number. In 1815, differences in the college with the
trustees, and questions of religious opinion led them to remove Dr. Wheelock
from the presidency. A large portion of the public considered themselves as out
raged by the proceedings. Gov. Plummer invited the attention of the state legis
lature to the subject, who asserting their claim to alter or amend a charter of
which they were the guardians, and in 1816, passed acts creating a new corpora
tion. Nine trustees were added to the old body, who were appointed by the
governor and council. The old trustees set all this legislation at naught, and
keeping up their organization, commenced an action for the recovery of the col
lege property. It was decided against them in the superior court of the state: it
was then carried to the supreme court of the United States, before Chief Justice
Marshall, where, in 1819, the judgment was reversed, and the great principle of
the inviolability of chartered corporate property fully established. It was in this
cause that Daniel Webster, at the age of thirty-five, made the commencement of
his great reputation as a constitutional lawyer. He had become a graduate of the
college seventeen years before, in 1801, and had argued the cause for the plaintiff
in the highest state court.
The first college building was erected in 1771, and stood twenty
years. It was 80 feet long and 36 wide, two stories high, 8 rooms
on the ground floor, and 8 above : it stood at the south-east corner
of the common or green, and fronted the south. Pres. Wheelock's
log house was about 75 rods north-west of the colleges. He, with
all his children, were owners of slaves. In 1780, there were about 18
colored persons in a population of 200. It is stated that they were as
18
196 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
well fed, clothed, and " schooled" as the other inhabitants in the place.
The first regular meeting-house was built in 1795. In digging a well
through the alluvial soil, at the depth of sixty
feet, a large pine tree was found lying in a
horizontal position, perfectly sound. The
first person born in the village was a female,
by the name of Field ; the first male, Wil
liam H. Woodward, son of the Hon. Beeza-
DARTMOVTH COLLEGE, 1771.* \ee\ Iff Woodward, a profeSSOr in the Col-
lege. Rev. John Maltby, of Bermuda, was the first person who
died.
During the early period of the history of the college, it was not uncommon to
have Indian youths as pupils. Prof. Woodward soon after his arrival in 1771,
went out to ascertain the latitude and longitude of the place, and took the students
with him, to show and explain to them the process. He is said to have remarked
afterward, that his Indian pupils appeared to apprehend his remarks sooner than
the other students. When the river was frozen over for the season, the Indian
youths obtained permission to spend an afternoon in skating. The officers of the
college and some others attended to witness their dexterity. One of them, more
daring than his companions, would rail or skate up to the edge of a glade or open
ing, and with one foot break off a strip of ice, and with "the other dart away
from the glade. This was done several times, when at last he made a mis
step, and went down into the water out of sight, lie continued so long under
the ice, that they despaired of ever seeing him again ; and as they were about to
return to their homes, the supposed lost one rose up to the edge of the glade, and
by some peculiar Indian elasticity, threw himself out onto the ice, and bounding to
his feet, gave a loud co-whoop, and then darted forward like a flash followed by
his Indian brethren.
One winter afternoon, in 1774-5, some eight or ten of the students, having John
Ledyard (afterward the celebrated traveler) for a leader, made an excursion to the
highest eminence, directly east, and about two miles from the village. The spot
can be seen from the colleges, as it is marked by some granite rocks and a few tall
pines rising above the surrounding forest. They went up in pairs, and arrived
on the summit before dark, built a fire, and after partaking of some food, prepared
a lodging place for the night. The snow was scraped away, and evergreen boughs
laid down for a bed. One would then lie down in the close suit which each
brought with him; his companion would then put green boughs over him, pile
snow upon the boughs, and then crawl under this covering by an opening left for
that purpose. In this manner the whole company lodged the'mselves through the
long winter night in not such an uncomfortable manner as some might suppose.
They returned the next morning in time for college prayers.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the village
graveyard :
Hie qurcseit corpus ELEAZAIU WHF.KLOCK, S. T. D. Academiae morensis, et Collegii Dart-
muthsensis Fidatoris, et primi praesidis, evangelic barbaros indominuit ; et excultis scien-
tife pateficit viator, I, et imatare, si poteris, Tanta meritorum premia laturus MDCCX natus
MDCCLXXIX.
Here rests the body of Eleazar Wheelock, LL.D., founder and first president of Dart
mouth College and Moor's Charity School. By the Gospel subdued the ferocity of the
savage ; and to the civilized he opened new paths of science. Traveler, go. if you can, and
deserve the sublime reward of such merit. He was born in the year 1710, and died in 1799.
* This is from a drawing in the possession of Mr. W. Dewey, an aged inhabitant of the
village, who has kept a MS. journal of all the principal events, etc., which have taken
place in the town from a very early period. Mr. Dewey came into the place in 1779, with
his father, the first blacksmith in the place. At the time of his arrival, what is now tb«
college green was then covered with pine stumps.
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
Piotntc filii Joannis Wheelock, boo monumentum constitution, inscriptumque fuit Anno
MDCCCX.
ITcrc was buried, Aug., A. D. 1800, Sopbomore Arteman Cook. Aged 20. He died of
consumption; was the fourth son of Samuel Cook, Esq., of Templeton, Mass., a town in
1799 of less than one thousand inhabitants, sentfour of her sons to Dartmouth College.
Ere the close of the college course, two were taken and two were left. The survivor of the
four, in 1852, restored the record destroyed by decomposition of the original headstone.
An elder brother and classmate, Amos Jones Cook, now also at rest, had subjoined, " Live
to die, and die to live." Sons of Dartmouth, your brother had quickness of apprehension,
and aptness to teach ; with the wages of teaching he bought instruction.
Here rests y« body of y« Rev. Mr. John Maltby, born at New Haven, Connecticut, Aug.,
y« 3d, 1721; graduated at Yale College, A. D. 1747; minister to a Presbyterian Church at
Burmuda, and then at Wilton, South Carolina. A strenuous assertor of y« doctrines of
grace; convinced of original guilt, and confiding in the sole righteousness of Christ. Jus
tice lost man before God. In preaching, zealous and pathetic; in his devotions, fervent;
his sermons judicious, correct and instructive ; his style manly and solemn ; of manners,
gentle, polite and humane; of strong mental endowments, embellished with sacred and po
lite literature. In his friendship, cordial, sincere and trusty ; detesting craft, dissimulation
and fraud. He dy'd Sept. 30, A. D. 1771. ^Itat 45'<>.
Gvlielmo II. Woodward Natv inter filio Nostrae Levphaniae Primo virtvte primo jvricon-
svto insigni, Bonarvm Litterarvm favtori assidvo patrifamiliaa optimo civi civim beneuie-
rito vita pvblicis uivneribvs exacta pietate ornata filii dolentes, ne tanti ingenii tantarvmqvo
virtvivm memoria omnio perissit, hoc monvmentvm magni amoris parvvmmvnus obiit Arg.
IX, MDCCCXVIII.
The ISLES OF SHOALS, eight miles from the mouth of Portsmouth
harbor, are seven in number. Hog, Smutty Nose and Star, are the
principal. Hog Island, the largest, contains 350 acres of rock, ele
vated 57 feet above high water mark. The islands constitute the town
of Gosport. Star Island, and Smutty Nose, are connected by a sea
wall, built at the expense of government, forming a safe anchorage
on the north-west side.
These islands have a few spots of dry soil suitable for cultivation. The bound
ary line between Maine and New Hampshire, passes through them, leaving tho
largest on the side of Maine. For more than a century before the revolution,
these islands were populous, containing from 300 to 600 souls. They had a court
house on Haley's Island; a meeting house first on Hog Island, afterward on Star
Island. Large quantities of fish were annually caught and cured here. The busi
ness since has very much decreased. The population for the last half century has
varied from 66 to' 103. As early as 1650, Rev. John Brock, esteemed as an un
commonly pious man, preached here. The following account is related of him by
Mather:
" Mr. Brock brought the people into an agreement that, exclusive of the Lord's
day, they would spend one day every month together in the worship of our Lord
Jesus Christ. On a certain day, which, by their agreement, belonged unto the ex
ercises of religion, the fishermen came to Mr. Brock, and asked him if they might
put by their meeting, and go a fishing, because they had lost many days by reason
of foul weather. He, seeing that without his consent they resolved upon doing
what they had asked him, replied, 'If you will go away, I say unto you, catch
fish, if you can! But as for you that will tarry and worship the Lord Jesus Christ
this day, 1 will pray unto him for you, that you may take fish till you are weary.'
30 men went away from the meeting, and five tarried. The 30 which went away,
with all their skill, could catch but four fishes: the five who tarried went forth
afterward, and they took 500. The fishermen, after this, readily attended what
ever meetings Mr. Brock appointed them."
198 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Passaconaway, a celebrated Indian chieftain, lived upon Merrimae River, at a
place called Pennakook [now Concord], and his dominions were very extensive,
even over the sachems living upon the Piscataqua and its branches. He lived to a
great age; some authors say to J20 years. He is supposed to have died about the
same time with Massasoit, a sachem, whom, in many respects, he seems to have
resembled. He was often styled the great sachem, and was also considered a
great powwow, or sorcerer, among his people. Morton, the historian, states, "he
has been seen likewise, by our English, in the heat of summer, to make ice ap
pear in a bowle of fair water — first having the water set before him, he hath begun
his incantations according to their usual accustom, and before the same has bin
ended, a thick clowde has darkened the aire, and on a sodane a thunder clap has
been heard that has amused the natives; in a instant he has shown a firm piece of
ice to note in the middle of the bowle," etc.
He seems to have had the sagacity to perceive that all opposition to the English
would prove ruinous. He, therefore, sought, in various ways, to conciliate their
favor. At first he stood aloof from Christian instruction, but in his last days, by
the labors of Elliott, the " Apostle of the Indians," he was led to embrace the
Christian faith. In 1660, he met the Indians, subject to his authority, at Paw-
tucket Falls, where he made his farewell speech, the substance of which has been
preserved, and says Mr. Bouton in his History of Concord, may be thus rendered:
" Hearken to the last words of your dying father ; I shall meet you no more ! The white
men are the sons of the morning, and the sun shines bright above them. In vain I op
posed their coming : vain were my arts to destroy them : never make war upon them : sure
as you light the fires, the breath of Heaven will turn the flames to consume you. Listen to
my advice. It is the last I shall ever give you. Remember it and live ! "
Maj. Robert Rogers, the companion in arms of Putnam and Stark, was born in
Dumbarton, New Hampshire. Having entered the military service in 1755, he
became the commander of the famous corps, known as Rogers Rangers, which
performed such signal services as scouts, during the war with the French and In
dians. Many anecdotes, of perilous adventures, are related of him and of his
men. Rogers Slide, on the west shore of Lake Champlain, was the scene of a
stratagem of Rogers, when pursued by the wily Indian foe. He made them
think he had slid down the surface of a steep rock, for a distance of 200 feet,
and thus escaped. In 1766, he was appointed governor of Mackinaw, where he
was accused of a design to plunder his own fort, and was sent in irons to Mon
treal for trial. In 1769, he went to England, was presented to the king, but soon
afterward was imprisoned for debt. In the war of the revolution, he espoused the
royal cause and raised a corps which he called the Queen's Rangers, and in 1777
he returned to England, where he died. In the year 1778, New Hampshire pro
scribed him as a tory. He kept a journal of the French war, which was published
at London in 1765. One of the prominent events of his career, was the surprise
and destruction of the Indian village of St. Francis, in 1759, he having been dis
patched for that purpose from Crown Point by Gen. Amherst. The following ac
count of this event is from Hoyt's Indian Wars:
" On the 4th of October, at eight in the evening, Rogers came within sight of the village,
halted, and directed his men to refresh themselves, while he, with Lieut. Turner and En
sign Avery, reconnoitercd the place. The Indians were found in a high/ro/ic or dance, and
appeared to entertain no apprehensions of an enemy in the vicinity. Returning to his men
about two o'clock in the morning, Rogers marched them within 500 yards of the village,
lightened them of their packs, and prepared for the attack. It was now about three o'clock,
and an hour after, the Indians broke up their dance, and retired to their cabins for repose,
and all was calm in the village. About half an hour before sunrising, the troops advanced
in three divisions, and made simultaneous attacks in as many directions. The Indians
were completely surprised, and incapable of much resistance. Well acquainted with tho
Indian mode of attack on similar occasions, the rangers dealt death and destruction in all
directions, and with unsparing hands. Nor was it possible to distinguish age or sex, and
an indiscriminate butchery followed, in the true savage style. Many were killed in their
cabins, others attempting to fly, were shot or knocked on the head, and few escaped. At
gun rise, the scene was truly horrible, and but for the sight of 600 or 700 of the scalps of their
countrymen, suspended upon poles, and waving in the air, the trophies of the former cruelty of
NEW HAMPSHIRE. ^99
the Indians, the assailants would have been excited to pity. This horrid spectacle added
new vigor, and sympathy for the sufferers found no place in the breasts of the rangers, and
in too many instances they continued to dispatch women and children indiscriminately;
and a general conflagration of the cabins ended the scene, about seven o'clock in the morn
ing. Out of about 300 inhabitants of the place, 200 were killed; 20 women and children
captured, and five English prisoners, residing in the village, set free ; but most of the
women and children were soon liberated.
The village appeared to have been in a very flourishing condition. Many of the cabins
wore well furnished, and the church was handsomely adorned with plate, and the whole
place had been enriched by the scalps and plunder taken from the English in the various
wars; 200 guineas were found in money, and a silver image weighing 10 pounds, besides a
large quantity of wampum, clothing, and some provisions."
JosiaJi Bartlett, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born in
Amesburg, Massachusetts, in 1729. He was educated a physician, and com
menced practice at Kings-
ton. His political' career
began in 1765, and from
that period until the close
of his life, he was an un-
wearied su pporter of Ameri-
can liberty; and when, on
the 2d of Aug. 1776, the
members of congress signed the Declaration of Independence, Dr. Bartlett was the
first who affixed his signature, New Hampshire being the first state called. He
died in 1795, aged 65.
William Whipple, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born at
Kittery, Maine, a town opposite Portsmouth, in 1730. He received his education
at a common school, and when quite a
lad, he went to sea, which occupation he
followed for several years. At the age
°^ ^' ne en*ere(^ i*1*-0 mercantile pur-
suits at Portsmouth. In 1776, he was
chosen a delegate to the continental
congress. Jn 1777, he was appointed brigadier-general of the New Hampshire
militia, and was very active in the campaign against Burgoyne. He was in •Sulli
van's expedition against Rhode Island in 1778. He was afterward ©ne of the
judges of the supreme court. He died in the 55th year of his age.
Matthew Thornton, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born in
Ireland, and was brought over to New England when he was between two and
three years of age.
His father settled
medical profes
sion, and became eminent as a physician. In 1745, he was appointed surgeon to
the New Hampshire troops, in the expedition against Louisburg. After his re
turn he was appointed a colonel of the militia, and when the royal governor
(Wentworth) abdicated, Dr. Thornton was chosen president in his stead. He was
a delegate to the continental congress, and a judge of the superior court. This
latter ollice he resigned in 1782, and in 1789 purchased a farm in Exeter, where
he resided until the time of his death. He died while on a visit in Newbury-
port, Massachusetts, June 24, 1803, in the 89th year of his age. Dr. T. was ever
a zealous Christian, beloved by all who knew him, and by the exercise of temper
ance and cheerfulness he attained a patriarchal age.
John Sullivan, a brigadier-general in the revolutionary army, was born in Ber
wick, Maine, near New Hampshire. He was a farmer in his youth, and after ar
riving at maturity, studied law and established himself at Durham, New Hamp
shire. He was appointed a brigadier-general in 1775. He was in the expedition
to Canada, and at the battle of Long Island was taken prisoner. He commanded
the right wing of the army in the battles of Trenton, Brandywine, and German-
town. In 1778, he commanded the expedition to Rhode Island, and in 1779, he
200 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
conducted the expedition against the Indians. He was president of New Hamp
shire, in 1786. In 1789, he was appointed district judge, which office he held un
til his death in 1795, in the 55th year of his age.
Gen. Henry Dearborn was born in Hampton, New Hampshire, in 1751, and
was, at the beginning of the revolution, practicing medicine at Portsmouth, whon
he raised CO volunteers for the army, and marched at their head to Cambridge.
He commanded a company at Bunker's Hill. He shared with Arnold the perils
of his march through the wilderness to Quebec. Famine fell upon them, and a
fine dog of Dearborn's was killed for food. He was taken prisoner in the attack
on Quebec : was afterward exchanged, participated in the capture of Burgoyne,
and for his conduct there was specially noticed in a dispatch of Gates to congress.
He was a lieutenant-colonel at Monmouth, and accompanied Gen. Sullivan in his
campaign against the Senecas. At Monmouth he particularly distinguished him
self by a gallant charge on the enemy. Dearborn being sent to ask for further
orders, Washington inquired, by way of commendation, "what troops are those?"
" Full blooded Yankees from New Hampshire, Sir," was his reply. After the
war, he settled on a farm on the Kennebec. In 1789, Washington appointed him
marshal of the district of Maine, and twice he was elected to congress therefrom.
He was secretary of war under the entire administration of Jefferson, from 1801
to 1809, then appointed collector of the port of Boston by Madison. In 1812, ho
was commissioned the senior major-general of the army, and commanded at the
capture of York (now Toronto), in Canada, where Gen. Pike was killed. He was
minister to Portugal under Monroe, and died at Roxbury, Massachusetts, at the
house of his son, in 1829, at the age of 78 years, thus closing a long life in which
he had well served his country, and received honors from every administration of
its government.
Gen. Enoch Poor was born in this state, in 1736, was a colonel in the expedi
tion to Canada, where he served with distinction, and was a brigadier at Saratoga.
He was at Valley Forge, and his brigade was among the first troops that pursued
the British across New Jersey in 1778. He fought gallantly at Monmouth. In
1780, he died while in service at Hackensack, New Jersey, at the age of 44 years.
He was greatly esteemed by LaFayette, who, it is said, was much affected on
visiting his grave in the churchyard at Hackensack, when in this country in 1825.
Gen. James Miller was born in 1775, at Peterborough, N. I!., was educated for
the law, but entered the army in 1810, as a captain. He was present at the bat
tle of Tippecanoe, but was prevented, by sickness, from sharing in its honors. Jn
the bloody battles of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, he took a most active part In
the last, history informs us that his commanding officer rode up to him and anx
iously inquired if he could take a certain battery that was hurling destruction up
on the Americans. " I will try, sir!" was the modest and heroic reply. The bat
tery was carried, and the expression has become immortal. He was subsequently
appointed governor of the territory of Arkansas ; and at a later period, for many
years, held" the office of collector of the port of Salem, Massachusetts. He died at
Temple, N. II., July 7, 1851, aged 78.
Levi Woodbury, LL.D., was born in Francistown, N. H., Dec. 22, 1789. He
graduated in 1809 at Dartmouth, studied law, was appointed judge of the superior
court in 1817; in 1823 was elected governor of the state: was speaker of the house
of representatives in 1825; was a senator in congress from 1825 to 1831; was
appointed secretary of the navy by President Jackson, in 1831; was transferred
to the treasury department as secretary in 1834, by President Van Buren, and
served until 1841 ; he was again a senator in congress from 1841 to 1845, when he
was appointed by President Polk, a justice of the supreme court of the United
States. He died at Portsmouth, N. H., Sept. 7, 1851.
Jeremiah Mason, LL.D., was born at Lebanon, Conn., in 1768, and graduated
at Yale College in 1788. He first went to Vermont where he was admitted to tho
bar; but subsequently removed to Portsmouth, and in 1802 was appointed attor
ney-general of the state. From 1813 to 1817, he was a senator in congress, hav
ing resigned for the purpose of devoting himself to his profession. He removed to
Boston in 1832, and died in 1848, aged 80 years. He was the friend of Daniel
Webster, who always spoke of him in terms of greatest praise. Mr. Webster aa-
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
201
cribcd much of his own success to the discipline received by being brought in con
tact with him. He was personally little known out of New England ; but his
name and presence were familiar to every lawyer of his own, as well as of the ad
joining states ; and nothing could exceed the respect amounting almost to dread,
that was experienced by other members of the profession for his Ucutencss, ra
pidity, and mental vigor. He was physically, as well as mentally, great, being al
most a giant in stature.
Isaac Hill, a distinguished politician, was born April 5. 1785, in Massachusetts,
and learned the printer's trade in New Hampshire. In 1809, at the age of 21, he
settled in Concord, and established the New Hampshire Patriot, a newspaper
v/hich, for a long period, exerted an almost unlimited political influence. In 1829,
he was appointed by President Jackson second comptroller of the treasury. From
1831 to 1836, he was a member of the senate of the United States, when he was
elected governor of New Hampshire by the unprecedented majority of 8,000 votes;
he was re-elected in 1837 and in 1838. During the year 1840, he was sub-treasurer
of Boston; and for many years he filled the office of pension agent. He published
the Farmer's Monthly Visitor for 10 years, which effected much good. For the
last 15 years of his life, he was much occupied with agricultural pursuits, in which
he was very enthusiastic. He died March 22, 1851, aged 63 years. His talents
were peculiar, but he exerted great influence which evinced unusual mental pow
ers. A strong partisan, he made many violent enemies; but he possessed great
kindness of heart and a ready will to oblige all who needed assistance.
Benjamin Pierce, governor of New Hampshire, was born at Chelmsford,
Massachusetts, in 1757, and left fatherless at the age of six years. His op
portunities for education were small; but he improved these with great
assiduity, in the intervals of farm labor. When the news of the affair at
LerJngton reached him, he abandoned the plow and entered the army as a
coKimon soldier, he then being 18 years of age. He was at Bunker Hill
seven weeks afterward, arid remained in the army until the close of the war,
at which time he had risen, by his gallantry, through the successive grades
until he commanded a company.
Shortly after he took an axe and a gun, and went alone into the woods of
Hillsboro' county, New Hampshire, with the one felling trees, and with the
other killing game on which to sustain himself, being his own cook, and
sleeping in the midst of his labors, with no bed but his military blanket.
Here he subsequently built a cabin, married, became an independent farmer,
erected a stately mansion, and raised
a family of children, occupying, in
their day, the best stations of socie
ty, one of whom, Franklin Pierce,
became president of the United
States. After having served in
many public stations, he was elected
governor in 1827 and in 1829. He
possessed a strong mind and the
most kind feelings. It is reported
that when sheriff, he found an old
revolutionary soldier in prison for
debt, who had been confined for years, because too poor to pay the fees for
his discharge, whereupon Gen. Pierce paid both debts and costs, and let the
old veteran go free. He died April 1, 1839, aged 82 years. The adjoining
engraving represents the mansion in which Franklin Pierce (president of
the United States from 1853 to 1857) was born in 1804.
EIUTII PT.ACE OF PRESIDENT PIERCE.
202
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.
The. White Mountains, of New Hampshire, which, on account of their sublim
ity and grandeur, have given to this region the cognomen of the "Switzerland of
America," lie in Coos county, N.E. from the center of the state. There are sev
eral peaks in this group, viz: Mount Jefferson, 5,057 feet; Mount Adams, 5,759,
and Mount Madison, 5,415 feet — N.E. from Mount Washington; and Mount Mon
roe, 5,349 feet; Mount Franklin, 4,850 feet; and Mount Pleasant, 4,712; besides
several neighboring peaks little inferior in altitude. In another group 20 milea
S.W. of Mount Washington, is Mount Lafayette, about 5,500 feet high, the second
^>rr/^:— , -:--:-':;%.
Old Man of Hit Mountain.
in point of interest in the White Mountain range. Mount Washington, the mon
arch of the group, is, with the exception of the Black Mountain, of North Caro
lina, the highest peak east of the Rocky Mountains, rising to the hight of 6,226
feet above the sea, exceeding a mile in altitude by more than a thousand feet
The White Mountains are considered as a continuation of the Alleghanies. They
nttract more tourists than any other natural curiosity in the United States, Niagara
Falls aloue excepted. Here one may pass weeks in viewing its wild scenery, so
constant is the succession of grand objects to arrest attention :
" The White Mountain Notch, is a pa<s of great celebrity. Coining from the N. or W.,
you enter it by an opening only 23 feet in width, between two perpendicular rocks, one 29
and the other 12 feet high. The infant Saco trickles it? way through this narrow opening,
gradually expanding as it proceeds down the pass, and receiving other tributaries from the
mountain sides, winch form the walls of the gorge, and which tower to the hight of about
2,000 feet above the bed of the Saco. In this pass occurred, in 1826, the landslide which
destroyed the Willey family.
The more wild and abrupt parts of the Notch extend for two or three miles from its en
trance at the Notch House. Mount Washington is ascended on horseback from the Notch
House, by a bridle path, first climbing Mount Clinton — in immediate proximity to the
hotel — tor 2}^ miles, and then coasting the E. side of the peaks of Mount Pleasant, Mount
Fr mklin, and Mount Monroe for 4 miles further, occasionally ascending a rough, steep
ridge, and again descending, now riding on the verge of a vast ravine of several hundred
feet in depth, and now on the crest of a ridge commanding a view of both sides of the
chain — we arrive at the foot of Mount Washington, 1,50 ' feet in perpendicular, and about
owe mile in inclined ascent, above the base of the cone or peak, and 6.226 feet above the
NEW HAMPSHIRE. 9Q3
sea. This is the most difficult, though scarcely dangerous part of the ascent, as it is little
else than riding on horseback over a pile of rocks of every variety of size, cast together
as if hurled by the Titans, in war or at play. From the summit, if the day be clear, is
afforded a view unequaled, perhaps, on the eastern side of the North American continent.
Around you, in every direction, are confused masses of mountains, be.iring the appearance
of a sea of molten fava suddenly cooled whilst its ponderous waves were yet in commo
tion. On the S.E. horizon gleams a rim of silver light — it is the Atlantic ocean, 65 miles
distant — laving the shores of Maine. ' Lakes — of all sizes, from Lake Winnipiseogee to
mere mountain ponds — and mountains beneath you gleam misty and wide.' Far oft' to the
N.E. is Mount Katahdin. In the western horizon are the Green Mountains of Vermont,
and to the S. and S.W. ure Mount Monadnock and Kearsarge or Kirsage, while the space
between is filled up with every variety of landscape, mountain and hill, plain and valley,
lake and river.
The Franconia Notch is deemed by many quite as interesting as the White Mountain
Notch. Near it are many agreeable accessories not to be found in the latter ; among
which are Echo lake, just at the northern entrance of the gorge, and the ' Old Man of the
Mountain,' a well-defined profile of the human face. The mass of rock forming this ex
traordinary profile is said to be 80 feet in hight, is 1,500 feet above the pass and about
half a mile from the spectator on the road, from which point it appears to be at the top of
the mountain, though it really is 500 feet below the summit. The Basin (with a rock worn
into an exact resemblance of the lower joint of the thigh bone), 4 miles S. of the Notch,
is a pool of beautifully transparent water. One mile below this, again, in the vicinity of
the Flume House, is the celebrated Flume, a narrow gorge or opening in the rock, only a
few feet in width, and from 70 to 120 in hight, through which flows a small tributary of
the Pemigewasset; below this is a cascade of (>16 leet in length, which in the spring and
fall freshets is an object of great interest. Mount Lafayette is ascended from the Flume
House, being only a five mile ride from the Franconia Notch. From its summit is a view
of more than 30 miles in extent, down the valley of the Pemigewasset, which is hemmed
in on each side by lofty mountains."
We conclude the notice of the White Mountains by giving the details of the de
struction of the Willey family by a landslide in .1826. It is the most noted event
in the history of this interesting region:
It originated from a terrible storm of rain, unprecedented in the history of the country,
the effects of which will remain for centuries. The inundation was so great and so sudden
that the channels of the stream were totally insufficient to admit of the passage of the
water, which, consequently overflowed the little level valleys at the feet of the mountains.
Innumerable torrents immediately formed on all sides ; and such deep trenches were cut
by the rushing water, that vast bodies of earth and stones fell from the mountains, bearing
with them the forests that had covered them forages. Somo of these "slides," as they are
here popularly denominated ^known among the Alps as "avalanches de terre "), are supposed
to have been half a mile in breadth, and from one to five miles in length.
The dwelling known far and wide as " the Willey House," was occupied by Mr. Calvin
Willey. His wife was a young woman of a very interesting character, and of an education
not to be looked for in so wild a region. They had a number of young children, and their
family, at the time, included several other persons, amounting in all to eleven. They were
waked in the night by the noise of tho storm, or more probably by the desce-nt of ava
lanches from the neighboring mountains, and fled in their night-clothes from the house to
seek their safety, but thus threw themselves in the way of destruction. One of the slides,
a hundred feet high, stopped within three feet of the house. Another took away the barn,
and overwhelmed the family ; nothing was found of them for some time ; their clothes were
found lying at their bedsides. The house had been started on its foundation by an im
mense heap of earth and timber, which had slid down and stopped as soon as it touched it ;
and they had all been crushed on leaving the door, or borne away with the water that over
flowed the meadow. Had they but remained in the house every soul would have escaped.
"The next afternoon," says Starr King, in his exquisitely illustrated work on the White
Hills, "a traveler passing Ethan Crawford's, some seven miles above the Willey House, de
sired, if possible, to get through the Notch that night. By swimming a horse across tho
wildest part of the flood, he was put upon the track. In the narrowest part of the road
within the Notch, the water had torn out huge rocks, and left holes twenty feet deep, and
had opened trenches, also, ten feet deep and twenty feet long. But the traveler, while day
light lasted, could make his way on foot over the torn and obstructed road, and he managed
to reach the lower part of the Notch just before dark. The little house was standing, but
there were no human inmates to greet him. And what desolation around I The mountain
behind it, once robed in beautiful green, was striped for two or three miles with ravines deep
and freshly torn.
The traveler entered the house and went through it. The doors were all open; the beds
and their clothing showed that they had been hurriedly left; a Bible was lying open on u
204 NEW HAMPSHIRE.
table, as if it had been read just before the family had departed, The traveler consoled
himself, at last, with the feeling that the inmates had escaped to Abel Crawford's below, and
then tried to sleep in one of the deserted beds. But in the night he heard moanings, which
frightened him so much that he lay sleepless till dawn. Then he found that they were the
groans of an ox in the stable, that was partly crushed under broken timbers which had
fallen in. The two horses were killed. He released the ox, and went on his way toward
Bartlett.
Before any news of the disaster had reached Conway, the faithful dog 'came down to
Mr. Lovejoy's, and, by moanings, tried to make the family understand what had taken
place. Not succeeding, he left, and after being seen frequently on the road, sometimes
heading north, and then south, running almost at the top of his speed, as though bent on
some absorbing errand, he soon disappeared from the region, and has never since been
Been.'
On Wednesday evening suspicions of the safety of the family were carried down to Bart-
lett and North Conway, where Mr. Willey's father and brothers lived. But they were not
credited. The terrible certainty was to be communicated to the father in the most thrilling
way. At midnight of Wednesday, a messenger reached the bank of the river opposite his
house in Lower Bartlett, but could not cross. He blew a trumpet, blast after blast. The
noise and the mountain echoes startled the family and neighborhood from their repose.
They soon gathered on the river bank, and heard the sad message shouted to them through
the darkness,
On Thursday, the 31st of August, the family and many of the neighbors were able to reach
the Notch. Tall Ethan Crawford left his farm which the floods had ravaged, and went
down through the Notch to meet them. ' When I got there,' he says, ' on seeing the friends
of that well-beloved family, and having been acquainted with them for many years, my
heart was full and my tongue refused utterance, and I oould not for a considerable length
of time speak to one of them, and could only express rny regard for them in pres'sing their
hands — but gave full vent to tears. This was the second time my eyes were wet with tears
since grown to manhood.' Search was commenced at once for the buried bodies. The first
that was exhumed was one of the hired men, David Allen, a man of powerful frame and
remarkable strength. He was but slightly disfigured. He was found near the top of a
pile of earth and shattered timbers, with 'hands clenched and full of broken sticks find
small limbs of trees.' Soon the bodies of Mrs. Willey and her husband were discovered —
the latter not so crushed that it could not be recognized.
No more could be found that day. Rude coffins were prepared, and the next day, Friday,
about sunset, the simple burial-service was offered. Elder Samuel Hasaltine, standing
amidst the company of strong, manly forms, whose faces were wet with tears, commenced
the service with the words of Isaiah : ' Who hath measured the waters in the. holfoio of hit
hand, and meted out heaven with a span, and comprehended the dust of the earth in a measure,
and weir/lied the mountains in scales, and the hills in a balance.' How fitting this language in
that solemn pass, and how unspeakably more impressive must the words have seemed, when
the mountains themselves took them up and literally responded them, joining as mourners
in the burial liturgy ! For the minister stood so that each one of these sublime words was
given back by the echo, in a tone as clear and reverent as that in which they were uttered.
The next day the body of the youngest child, about three years old, was found, and also
that of the other hired man. On Sunday, the eldest daughter was discovered, at a distance
from the others, across the river. A bed was found on the ruins near her body. It was
supposed that she was drowned, as no bruise or mark was found upon her. She was twelve
years old, and Ethan Crawford tells us 'she had acquired a good education, and seemed
more like a gentleman's daughter, of fashion and affluence, than the daughter of one who
had located himself in the midst of the mountains. These were buried without any reli
gious service. Three children — a daughter and two sons — were never found."
FAC SIMILE OF THE SIGNATURE OF DANIEL WEBSTER.
VERMONT.
THE territory now included within the state of Vermont, owing to
its distance from the coast, was, for a long time after the surrounding
settlements were made, in a great
measure unknown by Europeans.
It appears to have been first ex
plored by the French from Cana
da. Its name was derived from
the Green Mountains: vcrd, in
the French language, signifies
green, and mont, mountain. They
are so called on account of the
numerous evergreens with which
they are covered.
In 1716, a tract of land was
granted, by Massachusetts, in the
south-east part of the state, con
taining more than 100,000 acres.
In 1724, that government built
Fort Dummer, on the Connecticut
River. This fort was then admitted to be within Massachusetts;
afterward it was found to be in New Hampshire, and is now in Ver
mont. On the other side of the state, the French made their ad
vances up Lake Champlain, and in 1731, built their fort at Crown
Point, and began a settlement on the east side of the lake. This
part of the country became, of course, the seat of war, and was con
stantly exposed to the depredations of both nations and their Indian
allies.
The provinces of Massachusetts and New Hampshire had a long
controversy respecting their boundary lines. This was not settled
until 1740, when the present line was determined by George II. By
this decision, the government of New Hampshire concluded that their
jurisdiction extended as far west as Massachusetts had claimed; that
is within 20 miles of Hudson River. In 1749, Benning Wentworth,
the governor of New Hampshire, made a grant of a township six
miles square, situated 20 miles E. from Hudson River, and six miles
N. from the Massachusetts line. In allusion to his own name, he
gave to this township, the name of Bennington. In the course of
four or five years, he made several other grants on the west side of
Connecticut River. During the French war, the New England troops
(205)
200 VERMONT.
cut a road from Charleston, in New Hampshire, to Crown Point. By
this means the fertility and value of the lands in this part of Vermont
became generally known. After the conquest of Canada, these lands
were eagerly sought after by adventurers and speculators. The cul
tivation of the country, and the increase of the settlers (principally
from Connecticut), were so rapid, that Wentworth acquired a large
fortune by the fees and donations which attended the business, and
by a reserve of five hundred acres, which he made in every township
for himself.
These proceedings alarmed the government of New York, who
claimed all the territory west of Connecticut River. This claim was
founded upon an extraordinary grant made by Charles II, in 1664, to
his brother the duke of York, "which contained a grant, among other
things, of "all the lands from the west side of Connecticut River to
the east side of Delaware Bay." The New Hampshire grants were
declared invalid by the authorities of New York, and the settlers were
required to take out new patents. In opposition to this the governor
of New Hampshire put forth another proclamation, declaring the
grant to the duke of York to be obsolete, and that New Hampshire ex
tended as far west as Massachusetts and Connecticut. New York
persisted in her claims, the south-west part of Vermont was annexed
to the county of Albany, and the north-west formed into the county of
Charlotte.
Some of the towns complied with the requisitions of New York,
and bought their lands the second time. These grants from New
York were attended with heavy fees and expense. Those who re
fused to obtain them had their lands granted to others who would
pay the fees. Actions of ejectment were commenced at Albany,
against several of the ancient settlers. When, however, the officers
came to eject the inhabitants from their houses and lands, they gene
rally encountered strong opposition, arid were not suffered to proceed to
the execution of their offices. When it was found that the people had
combined against the proceedings of the courts at Albany, the militia
were ordered out to assist the sheriff. The militia had, however, no
disposition to hazard their lives for the benefit of a few speculators,
and upon the appearance of an armed opposition from the settlers,
they could not be kept together.
The opposition became so violent that several on both sides were
much abused and wounded; and no officer from New York dared to
attempt to dispossess any of the settlers from their farms. In these
scenes of violence and opposition to the proceedings of New York,
ETHAN ALLEN placed himself at the head of the opposition. Bold,
enterprising, ambitious, with great confidence in his own abilities, he
undertook to direct the proceedings of the inhabitants. He wrote
and distributed several pamphlets, showing the injustice of the pro
ceedings of New York. The uncultivated roughness of his own tem
per and manners, seems to have assisted him in giving a forcible de
scription to the designs of the speculating land jobbers. Next tc
VERMONT. 207
Allen, SETH WARNER seems to have been the most distinguished in
those times. Warner was cool, firm, resolute, and fully determined
that the laws of New York, respecting the settlers, never should be
carried into execution. When an officer came to take him as a rioter,
he attacked, wounded, and disarmed him; and then with the spirit of
a true soldier spared his life.
The controversy had now become so alarming, that the settlers sent
a delegation to Great Britain, to implore the protection of the crown.
The king interposed and forbid the government of New York to grant
any more of the lands in question, "until his majesty's further pleas
ure shall be known." The order, however, appears to have been
evaded, and the same state of affairs continued until the opening of
the great drama of the revolution at Lexington, in 1775, when the
government of New York had more important objects to engage its
attention.
The attempts of the British ministry upon the liberties of the colo
nies, excited as much opposition in Vermont as in those provinces
which were more immediately obnoxious to the royal power. On the
commencement of hostilities with the mother country, Ethan Allen
collected a body of about 300 settlers, and, joined by some officers
from Connecticut and New Hampshire, surprised the British post at
Ticonderoga. The fort at Crown Point was soon after surrendered.
These enterprises gave quite an impetus to the revolutionary cause,
and operated strongly on the public mind, in favor of the inhabitants
of Vermont. On the advance of Burgoyne's army, in 1777, Ticonde
roga fell in possession of the enemy, and the burdens of war bore
heavily upon Vermont: the northern settlements were broken up,
and its frontiers subjected to the incursions of savages. In his ad
vance, Burgoyne wishing to draw resources from the farms of Ver
mont, detached Col. Baum with 500 Hessians and 100 Indians, to
seize a magazine of provisions, collected by the Americans, at Ben-
nington. When near this place he was attacked by Col. Stark, of
New Hampshire, with about 800 militia, a large portion of whom were
denominated " Green Mountain Boys." Col. Baum was defeated with
the loss of the greater part of his troops in killed and wounded. Col.
Breyman, who had been sent to reinforce Baum, was next at
tacked by Col. Warner, with his continental regiment, assisted by
Stark's militia. The enemy fought bravely, but were obliged to
abandon their artillery and retreat. In these two actions the Ameri
cans took 700 prisoners.
While thus devoting their energies in support of the common cause,
the people of Vermont, as regards their civil government, were placed
in an anomalous situation. At the commencement of hostilities they
found themselves without a regular government. The jurisdiction of
New York was disclaimed, and the royal authority was cast off. In
January, 1777, a general convention of representatives from the towns
on both sides of the river, met at Westminster. On the 16th of Jan
uary, they proclaimed that the district of territory usually known by
208 VERMONT.
the name of " New Hampshire grants," was of right a free and inde
pendent jurisdiction or state, to be hereafter forever designated by
the name of NEW CONNECTICUT, alias VERMONT.
The committee addressed congress, and petitioned to be admitted
into the confederation as a distinct state. The declaration and peti
tion was signed and presented, on behalf of the inhabitants, by four
of the most respectable members of the convention: Jonas Fay,
Thomas Chittenden, Heman Allen, and Reuben Jones. This petition
was met by a counter memorial from New York, and congress declined
to grant Vermont a separate existence. Difficulties increased, and
other circumstances soon afterward involved the people of Vermont in
a controversy with New Hampshire, who eventually presented a claim
to congress for the whole of Vermont. New York did the same, and
Massachusetts endeavored to obtain a part by reviving an antiquated
title.
The people of Vermont being menaced from so many quarters, gave
up their local dissentions, and united in their own defense, Ethan
Allen, who had returned from captivity, was placed at the head of a
body of militia, and made prisoners of the officers who were acting
under the authority of New York. Complaint was made to congress,
but the subject was postponed, as Vermont refused to become a party
to it, and no decision was pronounced. During the progress of these
events, the British authorities flattered themselves that the people of
Vermont would become exasperated, and place themselves under their
protection. Negotiations were opened on the part of the British for this
purpose in 1780, and were continued without any open result until 1783.
The peace of 1783, found Vermont an independent state. New
York still claimed jurisdiction over her territory, but was unable to
enforce it. After the formation of the Federal Constitution in 1787,
Vermont made another application to be admitted into the union as a
sovereign state. The only opposition was from the State of New
York, which was finally withdrawn in 1789. In that year, commis
sioners from the two states met, and effected an amicable arrangement.
A convention was immediately called, by which it was resolved to join
the union. The consent of congress Avas given, and on the 4th of
March, 1791, Vermont became one of the United States. During the
war with Great Britain in 1812-15, the vicinity of the state was the
seat of a warm contest. On the invasion of Plattsburg, New York,
volunteers poured forth from the mountains and valleys of Vermont,
and in the part they took in the conflict, nobly sustained the character
of their ancestors for firmness and bravery.
Vermont lies between latitude 42° 44', and 45° 30" N., and 71° 30'
to 73° 20' W. longitude. It is bounded N. by Canada East, on the
E. by New Hampshire, from which it is separated by the Connecticut
River; on the S. by Massachusetts, and on the W. by New York, from
which it is separated principally by Lake Champlain. The length of
the state from N. to S. is 157 miles, and its breadth from E. to W.
from 40 to 92 miles, its widest part being on the northern state line.
VERMONT. 209
Most of the surface of Vermont is mountainous. It is traversed
from N. to S. by the Green Mountain range, some summits of which
rise to the hight of 4,279 feet above the sea. About the center of
the state they divide into two ridges, the principal of which passes in
a north-eastern direction into Canada. The Green Mountains are
from ten to fifteen miles wide, much intersected by valleys, and
abounding with springs and brooks. The rivers are inconsiderable.
Lake Memphremagog, thirty miles in length, is partly in this state,
but mostly in Canada: it discharges its waters into the St. Lawrence.
The climate varies according to the differences of level and other
circumstances. It is healthy, though the winters are severe. Snow
generally lies on the ground from the middle of November to the
end of April ; and on the hillsides it is often six or eight feet deep.
The soil is generally fertile. On the borders of the rivers are fine
tracts of valley land : they are sometimes a mile in width, and very
productive in grain, grass, and garden vegetables. The hills and
mountains that are not arable, from their steepness, or their rocky
surface, yield the best of pasturage. Few places are better adapted
to the raising of sheep, horses, and cattle than the mountain regions
of this state. Wool is the staple product: horses and cattle are
raised in large numbers. Granite, marble, and slate are abundant;
valuable quarries of each are worked; iron ore is in several localities ;
and from the sulphuret of iron in Stafford and Shrewsbury, copperas is
extensively manufactured. The whole number of farms in the state in
1850, was 29,687. Improved farm lands, 2,591,379 acres; unim
proved, 1,525,368 acres. The state is divided into fourteen counties.
Population in 1790, 85,144; in 1820,234,846; in 1840,291,218; in
1850, 312,902; now about 350,000.
MONTPELIER the capital of Vermont is situated 206 miles N. W. by
N. from Boston by railroad. It became the seat of government, in
1805, and the shire-town of Washington county, in 1811. Montpe-
lier village embracing a square mile was incorporated, in 1818, in the
S. W. corner of the town on the bank of Winooski River, and on both
sides of the Little North Branch. It is situated about a mile from
the Vermont Central Railroad with which it is connected by a branch
road. It contains 4 churches, 2 academies and about 3000 inhabit
ants. It is about ten miles north-easterly from the geographical
center of the state, and, besides being the point of intersection of the
roads from all parts, is on the great thoroughfare between the ocean
and Canada. The site of the village is a valley bearing evidence of
having once been the bed of a lake about 40 feet deep. The State
House, a beautiful granite structure was erected, in 1836—7; it was
burnt, in Jan. 1857. A new building of the same appearance some
what enlarged stands on the same foundations. <
The first attempt at settlement in Montpelier, was made in the
spring of 1786, when Joel Frizzle, a hunter and trapper felled a few
trees, planted a little corn among the logs, after the Indian fashion,
210
VERMONT.
on the bank of Winooski River, and moved his family, himself and
wife, a little French woman from Canada, into his log cabin at this
place, the same season. The first permanent clearing and settlement
South- West View of MonfpeUer.
[The Rail Road Bridge over the Winooski appears in the foreground, above which, on the left, is scon
the new State House. The Rail Road Station and other public buildings are on the right.]
was made the next year, on the 4th of May, 1787. Col. Jacob Davis,
and Gen. Parly Davis from Charlton, Worcester Co., Mass., with one
hired man and one horse each, loaded with pork, flour, beans and
other necessaries, came and commenced a settlement.
Westminster, in Windham Co., 82 miles south from Montpelier
on the bank of Connecticut River, was at an early period one of the
principal towns in Vermont. The first permanent settlers were from
Northfield, Mass., and from Ashford and Middletown in Connecticut,
who came here about the year 1741. Its pleasant situation and its
nearness to the fort maintained by New Hampshire, in what is now
called Walpole, caused the settlement to proceed with rapidity. A
jail formerly stood here, and a court house, in which were held some
of the earliest courts of justice; and when Vermont was organized
into an independent government several sessions of the legislature
were held at this plaee.
After the meeting of the delegates from the Provinces, at Philadelphia,
in Sept., 1774, the royal authority was in a great measure suspended in all
the colonies, except New York, who refused its assent to the measures re
commended by the delegates. New York at this time claimed jurisdiction
VERMONT. 211
over Vermont, and the stated session of the court was to have been holden
at Westminster, on the 13th of March, 1775. Much dissatisfaction pre
vailed because New York refused to adopt the resolves of the continental
congress, and the people endeavored to dissuade the judges from holding
the court. But as they persisted in doing it, some of the inhabitants of
Westminster and the adjacent towns took possession of the court house, at
an early hour, in order to prevent the officers from entering. The court
party soon appeared before the court house armed with guns, swords and
pistols, and commanded the people to disperse. But as they refused to
obey, some harsh language passed between them and the court party retired
to their quarters.
"The people, then, had an interview with Judge Chandler, who assured
them that they might have. quiet possession of the house till morning, when
the court should come in without arms, and should hear what they had -to
lay before them. But contrary to this declaration, about eleven o'clock at
night, the sheriff and other officers of the court attended by an armed force,
repaired to the court house. Being refused admittance, some of the party
fired into the house, and killed one man and wounded several others. The
wounded men they seized and dragged to prison, with some others who did
not succeed in effecting their escape." By these proceedings the indigna
tion of the settlers throughout the New Hampshire grants was raised against
the government of New York, and probably the commencement of the
American war, at Lexington, prevented the parties from proceeding to open
hostilities. The following inscription on the tomb stone of William French,
who appears to have been the person killed at the "Westminster massacre,"
as it was called, is a literary curiosity illustrative of the spirit of the times.
In memory of WILLIAM FRENCH, son of Mr. Nathaniel French, who was shot at West
minster, March ye 13th, 1775, by the hands of cruel minsterel tools of George ye 3d, in the
court-house, at a 11 a clock at night, in the 22d, year of his age.
Here William French, his Body lies ;
For murder, his blood for vengeance cries,
King George the third, his Tory crew
they with a bawl, his head shot threw
For Liberty and his Country's Good,
he Los his life, his Dearest Blood.
BURLINGTON, city, port of entry and capital of Chittenden Co., one
of the most important places in Vermont, is beautifully situated upon
the tongue of land formed by the confluence of the Winooski, or
Onion River with Lake Champlain. It lies upon the E. shore of Bur
lington Bay, and for the most part occupies a gentle declivity descend
ing toward the west, and terminated by the waters of the lake. The
streets cross each other E. and W. and N. and S., forming regular
squares. Near the center is a fine area, around which stand several
fine public structures. Lake Champlain is here about ten miles wide,
and the harbor is protected from the western winds by a breakwater.
The collection district of Burlington comprises the whole lake shore
of Vermont. Burlington contains the university of Vermont, 6
churches, several banks and about 8000 inhabitants. Distant 38
mile W. N. W. from Montpelier, 85 S. E. from Montreal, and 440
from Washington. As part of Burlington may be mentioned, the
14
212
VERMONT.
village called "Winooski City," which is situated on both sides of the
Winooski partly in Burlington, and partly in Colchester, and is about
two miles from Burlington city. Here is an extensive water power
and several woolen and cotton mills.
South View of Burlington.
The cut show* the appearance of Bvirlington, as it is entered from the S., upon the Rutland Railroad.
The court house, town house, and some other public buildings situated around the public square, are seen
on the right, the shore of Lake Champlain on the left.
The university of Vermont is situated on a commanding eminence,
about half a mile eastward of the court house in Burlington, 250 feet
above the level of the lake. The view from the cupola of the college
embraces an extensive range; on the west lies the city — the broad
expanse of the lake with its islands and vessels; and beyond the
Adirondack Mountains rising to the hight of nearly 6,000 feet give
grandeur to the scene ; while on the east are presented to full view
the Green Mountains with their two highest peaks, Camel's Rump
4188 feet high, and Mansfield Mountain 4279 feet.
This institution was incorporated in 1791, but it did not go into
operation until 1800. A large college edifice of brick completed in
1801, was consumed in 1824, after which three brick edifices were
erected, which since have been united in one, 250 feet in length by
40 in width. The faculty consists of the president, 5 professors and
1 tutor. The college has libraries containing about 14,000 volumes.
It has a valuable collection of specimens in different departments of
natural history. There is a medical school connected with it, in
which instruction is given by three professors.
"The Rev. Daniel C. Sanders, a graduate of Harvard College of
1788, was elected the first president; of decided personal traits in a
stalwart figure, and mingled courage and courtesy, he was an efficient
director of youth under his charge. He performed his onerous duties
for the first years without an assistant. The class of 1804, we read,
received all their instruction from him ; and as the classes increased he
VERMONT.
213
often employed six, eight and ten hours of the day in personal reci
tations." "As an illustration of the simple habits of the time and
place, a calculation was made by the president that a poor scholar, by
keeping school four months, each winter, at the average price of six
teen dollars a month, could pay all his college bills and his board and
leave college with thirty-two dollars in his pocket. The college asked
only twelve dollars for each student. There was a moderate income
from public lands, from which the president received a salary of six
hundred dollars; a professor of mathematics less than three hundred
and fifty, and a tutor three hundred. These simple receipts and
expenditures required constant vigilance and self-denial in the manage
ment of the institution." Zadock Thompson, the historian of Ver
mont, was a professor in this university. He died in Jan. 17, 1857,
aged 59.
West View of the University of Vermont.
The first attempt toward a settlement in Burlington was, it appears,
made in the year 1774. During the summer of 1775, some clearings
were made on the intervale north of the city, and in the neighbor
hood of the falls, and two or three log huts erected. But the revolu
tion commencing this year, the settlers in this and neighboring towns
either retreated to the south in the fall, or took shelter in the block
house in Colchester for the winter, and abandoned the country in the
succeeding spring. During the war, no attempt was made to renew
the settlement in these parts, but on the return of peace in 1783,
many of those who had been compelled to leave the country returned,
and others with them, and permanent settlement was effected. The
first man who brought his family into Burlington, in the spring of
1783, was Stephen Lawrence. A number of families came into Bur
lington, the same season, among whom were Frederic Saxton, Simon
Tubbs and John Collins.
The following inscriptions are from monuments, in the Green Mount
214 VERMONT.
Cemetery, a small grave yard embowered with trees and shubbery, up
ward of a mile from Burlington, near Winooski village.
GEN. IRA. ALLEN, the foremost of the founders of the university of Vermont, and one of
that band of worthies, who by their exertions secured the Independence of the United
States. Died at Philadelphia, in the year 1814, aged 64 years.
MAJOR GENERAL ROGER ENOS, whose remains are deposited here, wa? a patriot of the rev
olution, and assisted in the foundation of this state. He died at Colchester, on the 6th
day of October, 1808, aged 73 years. This testimony of respect is paid by his surviving
children.
STEPHEN LAURENCE, Esq., died, April 2, 1789, aged 47 years. He was the first man who
with his family settled in Burlington, 1783. This stone was erected to his memory, Oct.
1811. Reader, mark the mighty changes produced in 28 years, and learn instruction.
The celebrated Ethan Allen was interred in this yard; his monu
ment was a plain marble slab, resting upon a granite foundation hav
ing the following inscription :
The corporeal part of Gen. Ethan Allen rests beneath this stone, the 12th day of Feb.,
1789, aged 50 years. His spirit tried the mercies of his God, in whom alone he believed and
strongly trusted.*
Gen, Allen died suddenly on his estate in the adjoining town* of Colches
ter. He was born in Litchfield Connecticut, and when young, his parents
emigrated to Vermont. At the commencement of the disturbances m this
territory, about the year 1770, he took a most -active part in favor of the
settlers against the government of New York. He engaged with great ardor
in the American cause, in the revolutionary contest. He captured Ticonde-
roga and Crown Point, was taken prisoner in a rash attempt on Montreal,
and sent in irons to .England, and after having experienced much cruelty
was exchanged. After his return to Vermont, the state gave a public testi
mony to his merits and sufferings, by placing him at the head of the militia.
"Gen. Allen possessed strong powers of mind, but they never felt the influence of educa
tion. Though he was brave, humane and generous, yet his conduct does not seem to have
been much influenced by considerations respecting that holy and merciful Being, whose
character and whose commands are disclosed to us in the scriptures. His notions with re
gard to religion were such, as to prove that those who rather confide in their own wisdom
than s^ek instruction from Heaven, may embrace absurdities which would disgrace the un
derstanding of a child. He believed, with Pythagoras, that man after death would trans
migrate into beasts, birds, fishes, reptiles, etc., and often informed his friends, that he him
self expected to live again in the form of a large white horse. Besides a number of pam
phlets in the controversy with New York, he published, in 1779, a narrative of his observa
tions during his captivity, which has been lately reprinted; a vindication of the opposition
of the inhabitants of Vermont to the government of New York, and their right to form an
independent state, 1779; and Allen's Theology, or the Oracles of Reason, 1786. This last
work was intended to ridicule the doctrine of Moses and the prophets. It would be unjust
to bring against it the charge of having effected great mischief in the world, for few have
had the patience to read it." "j"
*When this spot was visited by us, while collecting materials for this work, no vestige of
the slab, containing this inscription, remained, it having been taken off by piecemeal as
relics. A new monument was about to be erected under the patronage of the state.
•)• Dr. Dwight, in the 2d vol. of his Travels, relates that when Gen. Allen's daughter lay
in a dying state, she sent for her father. The wife of Col. Allen was a pious woman, and
had instructed her daughter in the principles of Christianity. As soon as her father ap
peared at her bed-side, she said to him, "I am about to die; shall I believe in the princi
ples you have taught me, or shall I believe what my mother has taught me?" He became
extremely agitated; his chin quivered; his whole frame shook; and after waiting a few
moments, he replied, " Believe what your mother has taught you."
VERMONT ;>15
"The stern integrity and truthfulness of Allen, were well illustrated on one occasion,
when he was prosecuted for the payment of a note of 60 pounds given to a man in Boston.
It was sent to Vermont for collection, but it was inconvenient for him to pay it then, and
he was sued. The trial came on, and his lawyer, in order to postpone the matter, denied
the genuineness of the signature. To prove it, it would be necessary to send to Boston for
a witness. Allen was in a remote part of the court room when the lawyer denied the sig
nature. With long strides Allen rushed through the crowd and standing before his advo
cate, said in angry tones, " Mr. I did not hire you to come here and lie. That is a true
note — I signed it — I'll swear to it — and I'll pay it. I want no shuffling — I want time.
What I wanted you for was tc get the business put over to the next court, not to come here
and lie and juggle about it." The time was given and Allen paid the note.
South View of the State Lunatic Asylum.
[The view annexed is from the elevated ground on which the village is built. The Asylum is at ita
northern extremity, on a fertile meadow tract, adjoining the West River, which here unites with tlie Con
necticut. Mountainous ridges rise precipitously from this stream, which passes in the back ground.]
BRATTLEBOROUGH is one of the most flourishing villages in Vermont.
It is situated on the line of the Connecticut River Railroad, 40 miles
N. of Northampton, Mass., and 100 S. from Montpelier, and contains
about 3,000 inhabitants, six churches, two water cure establishments,
and the Vermont state asylum for the insane. The Whetsone Brook,
with its rocky channel, runs through the place, and affords admirable
water privileges, which are occupied by a variety of manufacturing
establishments. The water cure establishments here, are quite ex
tensive. The purity of the water, the salubrity of the air, together
with the romantic scenery of the place, with the cultivated manners
of the inhabitants, render this spot one of uncommon attraction.
The insane asylum opened here Dec. 12, 1836, under the charge of
Dr. William H. Rockwell, is a most flourishing institution, having
usually about 400 patients. A farm of about 800 acres is connected
with the asylum.
Brattleborough derived its name from Col. Brattle, of Massachusetts, one of the
principal proprietors. Fort Dummer, the first civilized establishment within the
present limits of Vermont, was built in ] 724, in the south-east corner of this town
on "Dummer Meadows." Nathan WillaAd, David Sargeant, David ^argeant, jr.,
John and Thomas tfargeant, John Alexander, Fairbiuik Moore and son, were
216 VERMONT.
among the first settlers. John Sargeant is believed to have been the first white
person born in Vermont. His father was killed by the Indians, and his brother
carried into captivity. Fairbank Moore and his son were also killed by Indians,
at West River Meadows, two miles north of Fort Dummer. Jn 1771, Stephen
Greenleaf, from Boston, purchased the Governor s Farm where the East village
now is, and opened the first store within the present limits of Vermont. The first
minister, Rev. Abner Reed, was settled in 1770. The following inscription ap
pears on a monument on the elevated grave yard on the southern border of the
village :
Sacred to the memory of Dr. Samuel Stearns, LL.D., who died Aug. 8, 1810, aged 63.
Self-taught, nature was his preceptor, philosophy his mistress, and astronomy his prompter.
Disappointment ever succeeded his best endeavors. He deserved better. Ingratitude waa
the reward of his labors. Peace to his ashes I
Bennington, a half shire town of Bennington county, is 120 miles
pouth-west from Montpelier. This was the first town granted within
the present limits of Vermont. It was chartered in 1749, by Ben-
ning Wentworth, governor of New Hampshire, and received its present
name from that of the governor. The settlement was commenced in
the spring of 1761. The first emigrants, including women and child
ren, were 20 in number, and were from Amherst and Harwick, Mass.
They crossed the mountains on horse back, bringing on their horses
all their household goods.
Bennington is finely situated on elevated ground encircled by ever
green mountains, and has a fertile soil. It contains a court house,
church, a number of mills and factories, with about 300 inhabitants.
On the western border of the town, about six miles from the court
house, the Americans under Gen. Stark, on the 16th of August, 1777,
gained an important victory over a British force sent to this place by
Gen. Burgoyne. The annexed description of this battle is from
Dwight's Travels:
l~ One of the principal difficulties under which Gen. Burgoyne labored,
was the want of a sufficient stock of provisions; and another, scarcely less
distressing, the want of horses and oxen for the draught. To obtain both
these objects, he detached Lieut. Col. Baum with a considerable body of
troops, to Bennington, where a collection of stores was deposited for the use
the American army ; and, to support him, in any case, Lieutenant-Colonel
Breyman was detached after him to Baton Kill, at some distance from its
confluence with the Hudson. When Baum had reached the eastern part of
Hoosac, he halted on the borders of a mill-stream, called the Walloomscock
(a tributary of Hoosac River), in consequence of information that a strong
body of the New England militia were in the neighborhood.
Among the levies forwarded to the American army, 800 of the New
Hampshire militia marched under the command of Brigadier-General Stark.
This gentleman had fought bravely at Breed's Hill; but for reasons, which
do not appear, and which can not have been sufficient, had been neglected in
the progress of promotion. When requested by the New Hampshire legis
lature to take command of their new levies, he consented on the condition
that he should be permitted to unite his troops to the main army, or not, as
he pleased. Happily, he reached Bennington at this critical moment; and
immediately dispatched a messenger to Col. Warner, then at Manchester, to
reinforce him with his regiment. At the same time he sent Lieut. Col.
Greg with 200 of his men, to attack the enemy, supposing them only to be
VERMONT.
217
a body of savages. Greg, as soon as he perceived the real strength of his
adversaries, retired; and met Gen. Stark, advancing to his assistance. War
ner obeyed the first summons, and with his own regiment, and a considera
ble number of militia from the neighboring country, marched immediately to
the assistance of Stark.
Battlefield of Bennington.
The above view is copied from that in Lossihg's Field Book of the Revolution. It was taken from the
hill on the south-west bank of the Walloomscock, a little west of the road from the bridge to Starkville,
looking north-cast. The highest point on the distant hills, covered with woods, is. the place where the
Hessians were entrenched. From that point along the hills to the left, for about two miles, the conflict
was carried on: and upon the slopes now cultivated, musket balls and other relics of the battle have beeu
plowed up.
Stark, upon his arrival, instantly offered the enemy battle. Baum' de
clined it. Stark, then leaving a small force to watch his motions, encamped
his main body at a little distance. The next day it rained. The following
morning, July 16th, Stark made hivS dispositions for an attack. Col. Nichols,
with 250 men, he sent toward the rear of their left; Col. Hendrick, with 300,
to the rear of their right ; 300 more he stationed in their front; 200 more
he sent to attack their right, probably, also, to reinforce Ilcndrick, and an
other 100 to reinforce Nichols. The rest he retained under his own imme
diate command. The attack commenced on the enemy's left at three o'clock
in the afternoon, and immediately became general. The action continued
two hours. The British works were forced ; their field-pieces taken ; and
such of their men, as did not escape by flight, were killed, or made prisoners.
Scarcely was this action ended, when Gen. Stark was informed that an
other body of English troops was advancing toward him, at the distance of
two miles. His own soldiers, with the true spirit of militia, were dispersed
in quest of plunder. They were rallied as soon as possible; and Warner,
fortunate^, arriving at the moment in a road which conducted him directly
to the right of the enemy, began the attack, and gave the scattered soldiers
opportunity to form in order of battle. Breyman made the best dispositions
in his power, and maintained his ground with great spirit and conduct; but
was forced to yield to superior numbers, arid equal bravery. With a part of
his force he made good his retreat.
In the battle of Hoosac, erroneously called the battle of Bennington, the
British lost 226 killed outright; and 36 officers, and more than'700 privates,
made prisoners. Among the latter was Col. Baum, who soon after died of
218 VERMONT.
his wounds. The Americans took four brass field pieces, and a considerable
quantity of baggage, arms, and ammunition. Their own loss amounted to
about 100 killed and wounded. The superior skill of the Americans in di
recting the musket, was conspicuous in these engagements.
The effects of this battle upon the public mind, can not be described, [t
was a victory of mere militia over the best disciplined veterans; and an un
questionable proof that other victories might be achieved by such men over
such enemies. It was the frustration of an important, enterprise; the ac
complishment of which was indispensable to the success, and even to the
comfort, of the invading army. It was a victory, following hard upon disas
ter, shame, and dismay: a morning, breaking out after a gloomy and melan
choly night, and promising a brilliant and glorious day."
Several anecdotes are related in connection with this battle, which
exhibit the spirit of the Americans. Thatcher says that an old man
had five sons in the battle. On being told that one of them was un
fortunate, he exclaimed, "What, has he misbehaved? Did he desert
from his post, or shrink from the charge?" "Worse than that," re
plied his informant, "He was slain, but he was fighting nobly."
" Then I am satisfied," replied the old man ; " bring him to me."
After the battle, the body of his son was brought to him. The aged
father wiped the blood from the wound, and said, while a tear glis
tened in his eyes, " This is the happiest day of my life, to know that
my five sons have fought nobly for freedom, though one has fallen in the
conflict."
When Warner's regiment came into the field, Stark rode up and
ordered a captain to lead his men into action. "Where is the colo
nel," alluding to Warner, " I want to see him first," he cooly replied.
The colonel was sent for and the captain, in a down-east nasal tone,
drawled out, "Woll, kunnel, what dew ye want I should dew?"
" Drive those red coats from the hill, yonder," replied Warner.
"Woll, it shall be done," again drawled the captain, and in an in
stant himself and men were on the run for the thickest of the fight.
" Among the New Hampshire men, was one William Clement, from Bradford,
in Col. kStickney s regiment, which attacked the tory breast-work. As he rushed
up to the Avorks, a tory thrust a bayonet at him ; he struck it aside, and drove his
own through his opponent's eye and head, with such force, that the bayonet came
off, and remained in the tory's head. When they buried the slain, the soldiers
told Clement to take his bayonet out of the man's head ; but he declared he would
never touch it again, and the body was buried in that condition.
The tories who were taken captives, ' were ordered to be tied in pairs, and these
pairs connected by a rope, to which a horse was harnessed, with a postillion
mounted to lead them away. The ladies of Bennington dismantled their beds to
furnish cords for the purpose, and rendered other services equally patriotic.' "
Dr. Dwight gives a most singular narrative of one of the prisoners
taken by the Americans in this battle. His name was Richard Jack
son, and he was a plain farmer of Hancock, in Berkshire county, Mass.
Says Dwight :
This man had conscientiously taken the British side in the revolutionary con
test, and felt himself bound to seize the earliest opportunity of employing himself
in the service of his sovereign. Hearing that Col. Baum was advancing with a
body of troops toward Bennington, he rose early, saddled his horse, and rode to
VERMONT. 219
floosao, intending to attach himself to this corps. Here he was taken, in such
circumstances as proved his intention beyond every reasonable doubt. He was,
besides, too honest to deny it. Accordingly, he was transmitted to iJrcat Barring-
ton, then the shire town of Berkshire, and placed in the hands of (Jen. Fellows,
high-sheriff of the county, who immediately confined him in the county jail. This
building was, at that time, so infirm that, without a guard, no prisoner could be
kept in it who wished to make his escape. To escape, however, was in no degree
consonant with Richard's idea of right; and he thought no more seriously of mak
ing an attempt of this nature, than he would have done had he been in his own
house. After he had lain quietly in jail a few days, he told the sheriff that he was
losing his time, and earning nothing, and wished that he would permit him to go
out and work in the day time, promising to return regularly at evening to hia
quarters in the prison. The sheriff had become acquainted with his character,
and readily acceded to his proposal. Accordingly, Richard went out regularly
during the remaining part of the autumn, and the" following winter and spring, un
til the beginning of May, and every night returned at the proper hour to the" jail.
In this manner he performed a day's work every day, with scarcely any exception
beside the Sabbath, through the whole period.
In the month of May he was to be tried for high treason. The sheriff accord
ingly made preparations to conduct him to Springfield, where his trial was to be
held. But he told the sheriff that it was not worth his while to take this trouble,
for he could just as well go alone; and it would save both the expense and incon
venience of the sheriff's journey. The sheriff, after a little reflection, assented to
his proposal; and Richard commenced his journey: the only one, it is believed,
which was ever undertaken in the same manner for the same object. In the
woods of Tyringham, he was overtaken by the lion T. Edwards, from whom I had
this story. " Whither are you going'?''1 said Mr. Edwards. " To Springfield, Sir,"
answered Richard, " to be tried for my life." Accordingly he proceeded directly
to Springfield, surrendered himself to the sheriff of Hampshire, was tried, found
guilty, and condemned to die.
The council of Massachusetts was, at this time, the supreme executive of the
state. Application was made to this board for a pardon. The facts were stated,
the evidence by which they were supported, and the sentence grounded on them.
The question was then put by the president, "Shall a pardon be granted to Rich
ard Jackson?" The gentleman, who first spoke, observed that the case was per
fectly clear; the act alleged against Jackson was unquestionably high-treason ; and
the proof was complete. If a pardon should be granted in this case, he saw no
reason why it should not be granted in every other. In the same manner
answered those who followed him. When it came to the turn of Mr. Edwards, he
told this story with those little circumstances of particularity, which, though they
are easily lost from the memory, and have escaped mine, give light and shade a
living reality, and a picturesque impressiveness to every tale which is fitted to en
force conviction, or to touch the heart. At the same time he recited it without en
hancement, without expatiating, without any attempt to be pathetic. As is always
the case, this simplicity gave the narration its full force. The council began to
hesitate. One of the members at length said, ' Certainly such a man as this ought
not to be sent to the gallows.' To this opinion the members unanimously as
sented. A pardon was immediately made out and transmitted to Springfield, and
Richard ^ returned to his family. Never was a stronger proof exhibited, that
honesty is wisdom.
RUTLAND, the shire town of Rutland county, now the most popu
lous and wealthy town in Vermont, is 50 miles south-west from Mont-
pelier, and is highly favored with railroad facilities. Population of
the town about 8,000. It is divided into two parishes, denominated
the East and West parishes. Rutland village is situated in the East
parish, and is the most important, containing the court house, etc.,
and about 5,000 inhabitants. Before the railroad was constructed
here, there was but one dwelling house, where the most flourishing
220
VERMONT.
part of the village is now situated. West Rutland is about four miles
from the east village. Here are about 1,000 hands employed in the
marble quarries, and about half a million dollars worth is annually
exported to various places in the United States.
View of Rutland Village from the West.
The engraving shows the appearance of Rutland as it is entered from the west, upon the Burlington
and Western Railroad. The ancient part of Rutland is the line of buildings on a gentle elevation a little
eastward of the buildings in front. The railroad buildings appear on the right, above which, in the ex
treme distance, is seen Killingtori Peak, .'3,924 feet high (about nine or ten miles distant), the highest point
of the Green Mountains in this part of the state.
This town was chartered in 1761. During the revolutionary war,
it was for some time a frontier town. Through it lay the only mili
tary road from Charlestown, N. II., to Ticonderoga and Crown Point.
During the war, the Vermont soldiers, or Green Mountain Boys,
erected here two small picket forts, sufficient to contain about 100
men each. One of them was situated within a few rods of where the
court house now stands ; the other was at the head of the falls on
Otter Creek, then called Mead's Falls. The first Congregational
Church was organized in the west parish, in 1773. Rev. Benajah
Root, the first minister, was succeeded by Rev. Lemuel Haynes, who
was pastor here from 1788 to 1818. Mr. Haynes was a colored man,
and was one of the most respected divines of his day.
The Battle of Hubbardfon was fought in this county, July 7, 1777,
a few miles westerly from the town of Rutland. This event, which
proved a sore defeat to the Americans, is unnoticed in some histo
ries of the revolution. It occurred to a part of St. Clair's army in
VERMONT. 221
its retreat after the evacuation of Ticonderoga, in the campaign of
Burgoyne. The following account is from Lossing's Field Book :
Gen. Fraser had started after the Americans from Ticonderoga, continued his
pursuit of St. Clair and his army through the day, and, learning from some torjr
scouts that they were not far in advance, he ordered his men to lie that night upon
their arms, to be ready to push forward at daybreak. About three in the morning
his troops were put in motion, and about five o'clock his advanced scouts discov
ered the American sentries, who discharged their pieces and retreated to the main
body of the detachment, which was left behind by St. Clair under the command
of Cols. AVarner and Francis. Their place of encampment was in the south-cast
part of Hubbardton, Rutland county, near the Pittsneld line, upon the farm of
John Selleck, not far from the place where the Baptist meeting house now stands.
The land is now owned by a son of Capt. Barber, Avho was in the engagement.
It was an excessively hot morning in .July when the battle of Hubbardton com
menced. The American force consisted of the three regiments of Warner, Fran
cis and Hale, and such stragglers from the main army then at Castleton (six miles
in advance) as had been picked up on the way. The Americans were about thir
teen hundred strong, and the British, under Fraser. about eight hundred. Keidesel
and his Germans were still in the rear, but, expecting his arrival every moment,
Fraser began the attack at seven in the morning, fearing that the Americans might
escape if he delayed. The charge of the enemy was well received, and the battle
raged furiously. Had Warner been well sustained by the militia regiment under
Col. Hale, he might have secured a victory; but that officer, with his troops, fled
toward Castleton, hoping to join the main army there under St. Clair, leaving the
commander with only seven hundred men to oppose the enemy. On the way, Hale
and his men fell in with an inconsiderable party of British soldiers, to whom they
surrendered, without offering any resistance, although the numbers were about
equal.* They were well stationed upon the brow of the hill, but so sudden and
unexpected was the attack, that no other breast-works could be thrown up than
such as a few trees afforded. For a long time the conflict was severe, for Reidesel
still did not make his appearance. The British grenadiers occupied the Castleton
road, and prevented the Americans from retreating in that direction; but the re
publicans poured in such a galling fire upon them, that they gave way, and victory
was almost within the grasp of the patriots. At that moment, Riedesel with his
companions appeared, his drums beating and banners flying. The tiring reaching
his cars, he had pressed on as rapidly as the rough forest road would allow. His
Chasseurs, under Maj. Barner, were immediately brought into action in support of
Fraser's left flank. At that moment the whole British line made a bayonet charge
upon the Americans with terrible effect. The latter, supposing that the Germans
in full force were coming upon them, broke and fled with great precipitation, some
over the Pittsfield Mountains toward Rutland, and others down the valley toward
Castleton. f The Americans lost 324 in killed, wounded and prisoners. The brave
Col. Francis was slain while gallantly fighting at the head of his regiment, and 12
officers Avere made prisoners. The British loss was 183. among whom Avere Maj.
Pratt and about 20 inferior officers. £ The British also captured about 200 stand
of arms.
*Col. Hale has been severely censured for this act of apparent cowardice, but when every
circumstance is taken into account, there is much to induce a mitigation of blame. Him
self and a large portion of his men were in feeble health, and quite unfit for active service,
and his movement was one of precaution, rather than of cowardly alarm. Rivals, soon
after he surrendered, circulated reports unfavorable to his reputation. On hearing of them,
he wrote to Gen. Washington, asking him to obtain an exchange, that he might vindicate
his character by a court martial ; but before this could be accomplished he died, while a
prisoner on Long Island, in Sept., 178C.
f Many of the Americans, in their precipitate retreat, threw away their muskets, to rid
themselves of the encumbrance. Some have been found, within a few years, in the woods
on the line of the retreat. One of them, of American manufacture, is in my possession, and
dated 1774. The bayonet is fixed, the flint is in the lock, and the powder and ball are still
in the barrel.
J The statements concerning the loss in this battle are various and contradictory. Some
222 VERMONT.
When Gen. St. Clair heard the firing at Hubbardton, he attempted to send a
force to the relief of Warner, but the militia absolutely refused to go, and the reg
ulars and others were too far on their way to Fort Edward' to be recalled. St
Clair had just learned, too, that Burgoyne was at Skenesborough, and he hastened
forward to join Gen. iSchuyler, which he did on the 12th, with his troops worn
down by fatigue and lack of provisions.
Middlelmry, the shire town of Addison county, is 31 miles S.
W. from Montpelier, and 33 S. S. E. from Burlington, and is con
nected by the Rutland and Burlington Railroad with the great routes
north, south and east. The village is situated at the falls, and on both
sides of Otter Creek. It contains a court house, five churches, Mid-
dlebury College, several extensive manufactories, and about 2,500
inhabitants.
Middlebury College was incorporated in 1800. The funds of the
institution have been derived from individual donations. The college
buildings are two in number; one of wood, three stories high, the
other a spacious edifice of stone. The libraries contain about 6,000
volumes. The cabinet contains 2,700 specimens in zoology, 400 in
botany, 1,500 in mineralogy, and 1,750 in geology. The faculty con
sists of a president, four professors and one tutor. Rev. Jeremiah
Atwater, D. D., was the first president. Among the many eminent
men who have graduated at this institution, was the Hon. Win. Slade,
who was born in this state. He was representative in congress from
1831 to 1843, and governor of Vermont from 1844 to 1846. He was
from that time until his decease, Jan. 16, 1859, secretary of the Na
tional Board of Popular Education. His upright Christian character,
and his efforts in the cause of education, leave his memory in pleas
ant remembrance. Wilbur Fisk, D. D., first president of Wesleyan
University, was also a graduate of this college, and a native of Vt.
The first clearing in Middlebury was commenced by Col. John
Chipman, in 1766, on the north bank of Middlebury River. The pros
pects at first were so discouraging that Mr. Chipman returned to Con
necticut. He, however, in 1773, returned with the Hon. Gamalin
Painter, from Salisbury, Ct., who, with their families, effected a per
manent settlement. Benjamin Smalley was the first who erected a
habitation. In 1793, almost all the buildings, 62 in number, were
constructed of logs. Rev. John Burnet, the first minister, was set
tled in 1770.
Vergennes, 12 miles north-west from Middlebury, and 21 south
erly from Burlington, was incorporated a city in 1783. It is beau
tifully situated at the falls on Otter Creek, seven miles from Lake
Champlain. Otter Creek, at this place, is 500 feet wide, and at the
falls is separated by two islands, which form three distinct falls of 37
feet. The city is neatly built, and is picturesque in appearance, con
taining three churches, an academy, a United States arsenal and ordi
nance depot, and about 1,500 inhabitants. The creek or river between
accounts say that nearly 600, who were wounded, crawled off into the woods and died j and
others, again, put the American loss down at less than 300. There is a preponderance
of testimony in favor of the number I have given, and it is, doubtless, near the truth.
VERMONT.
223
the city and lake is somewhat crooked, but navigable for the largest
lake vessels. Here was fitted out the squadron of Commodore Mc-
Donough, with which he captured the British fleet off Plattsburg, N.
Y., Sept. 11, 1814.
The first settlement within the present limits of Vcrgennes was
made in 1766, by Donald Mclntosh, a native of Scotland, who was in
the battle of Culloden. He came to this country with the army of
Gen. Wolfe, during the French war. He died in July, 1803, aged 84
years. The emigrants who afterward located themselves here were
principally from Connecticut and Massachusetts, and the south part
of the state.
Castleton, 11 miles W. from Rutland, 72 S. W. from Montpelier, on
the line of the Rutland and Washington Railroad, contains four
churches, an academy, the Castleton Medical College, which has seven
professors. There is in the town a quarry of slate stone, similar in
appearance to the best of marble, of which large quantities are quar
ried and sent to various parts of the country. Population, about
1,500. The first dwelling house erected here was in 1769. Col. Lee
and his servant were its first inmates.
St. Albans is situated near the east shore of Lake Champlain, three
miles from the lake, 25 from Burlington, 46 from Montpelier, and 15
from the Canada line, on the railroad from Burlington to Montreal.
It has a court house, two academies, a seminary, bank, six churches,
and about 3,000 inhabitants. It has considerable trade from the sur
rounding country, and has manufactories for various articles. J. Wai-
den is supposed to have been the first white settler. There was no
addition to the settlement till 1785, when Andrew Potter emigrated to
the town, and was soon followed by others.
South-west view of the Norwich University.
NORWICH, in Windsor county, pleasantly situated on a plain near
Connecticut River, is 40 miles S. E. from Montpelier ; the village, or
principal settlement, is about a mile west from Connecticut River and
the railroad, opposite Dartmouth College, in Hanover, N. H., on the
east side of the river. The Norwich University, having two large
224 VERMONT.
buildings, is located in the village. This institution was first opened
in 1820, as the " American Literary, Scientific and Military Acade
my," by Capt. Alden Partridge, a native of the town, and founder,
also, of a once flourishing institution of the same name in Middletown,
Conn. Afterward the character of the academy was somewhat
changed to that of a college, under the patronage of the Universalist
denomination. The late Col. Ransom, who bravely fell at the head
of his regiment at the storming of Chepultepec, was at the head of
this institution when he left for Mexico. The following inscriptions
are from monuments in the village graveyard.
In memory of the Hon. PAUL BRIGHAM, who died June 15th, 1824, in the 79th year of his
age. He served as captain in the army of the revolution, and fought in the battles of Ger-
mantown and Monmouth under the father of his country. By the suffrages of his fellow-
citizens, he was elevated to various stations of public honor, until, in 1796, he was elected
LIEUT. GOVERNOR of this state; which office he sustained with distinguished reputation 22
years. To a mind fruitful in invention, enriched with stores of useful knowledge, and an
ardent patriotism and benevolence, he added the graces of a renewed and sanctified spirit.
His mourning relatives rejoice in hope that, though dead, he will still live, and that living
and believing in Christ, he will never die.
Maj. Gen. T. B. RANSOM, Col. 9 Regt. Inft. fell at Chepultepec, Mexico, Sept. 13, 1847.
M. 45.
Windsor is by railroad 77 miles S. S. E. from Montpelier, and 138
from Boston. The village is on elevated ground on the bank of Con
necticut River. It is compactly, and though somewhat irregularly
built, is beautiful, having handsome dwellings and stores. The Ver
mont State Prison is located in this place. The first building for this
purpose was commenced in 1808. A second building was erected in
1830. The first permanent settlement in the town was commenced
by Capt. Steele Smith, who removed with his family from Farmington,
Conn., in 1764. The next season, Maj. Elisha Hawley, Capt. Israel
Curtiss, Dea. Hezekiah Thompson, Dea. Thomas Cooper and some
others, came on and began improvements.
Woodstock, the shire town of Windsor county, Vt., is 60 miles S.
from Montpelier, and 10 from Hartland Depot, on the Vermont Cen
tral Railroad, contains a fine court house, the Vermont Medical Col
lege, five churches, a bank, and about 1,500 inhabitants. " Wood
stock Green" is the principal village; the south village is distant
about five miles.
St. Johnsbury is the shire town of Caledonia county, situated 37
miles N. E. from Montpelier, and 10 from the Connecticut River, on the
line of the Connecticut and Passumpsie River Railroad. The principal
village of the town, St. Johnsbury, has about 2,000 inhabitants. Tho
manufactures of St. Johnsbury are quite extensive. Among the es
tablishments is the famous scale manufactory of Fairbanks & Co.
Scarcely a civilized country exists in the world in which these scales
are not to be found.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Thomas Chittenden, first governor of Vermont, was born at Madison, Conn.,
Jan. 6, 1730. He received but a common school education, and agreeable to the
VERMONT.
225
New England custom, married early in life, and soon removed to Salisbury, in
Litchfield county, in Connecticut. Here by a regular advance, he passed through
the several grades in the militia, to the command of a regiment; he likewise rep
resented the town where he lived in the general assembly. With a numerous fam
ily, he determined to lay a foundation for their future prosperity, by emigrating
through an almost trackless wilderness to Williston, on the Onion River, in the
New Hampshire Grants, as Vermont was then called. In the controversy with
New York, he was a strong supporter of the feeble settlers. During the war of
the revolution, while Warner, Allen, and many others were in the field, he was en
gaged in council at home, where he rendered important services. He was a mem
ber of the convention, Jan. 16, 1777, which declared Vermont an independent
state. When the constitution of the state was established, in 1778, Mr. Chittenden
was appointed the first magistrate, which office he held (one year excepted) until
his death, Aug. 24, 1797. Gov. Chittenden was conspicuous for his private as well
as his public virtues. In times of scarcity and distress, which are not unfrequeut
in new settlements, his granary was open to all the needy.
Col. Seth Warner was born at Woodbury, Conn., in 1744, in the same county
with Ethan Allen. In 177,'}, when 29 years of age, he emigrated to Vermont. In
the controversy with New York, he and Ethan Allen were the leaders, and that
province passed an act of outlawry against him in 1774. In 1775, he marched
with Allen against Ticonderoga; assisted Montgomery in Canada, and after the
death of the latter, raised another body of troops in 1776, and marched to Quebec.
A fter the abandonment of Ticonderoga, he was attacked at Hubbardton, where he
met with a reverse. He contributed, by the defeat of Kaum, to the victory at Ben-
nington. He died at the age of 41, in his native town. Vermont, for his revolu
tion services, granted a valuable tract to his family.
Walter Colton, chaplain in the United States navy, and widely known as an
author, was born in Rutland county, in 1797, and graduated at Yale College in
1820. In 1846, he was appointed Alcalde of Monterey, in California. He built
the first school house in California, and was the first who made public the discovery
of gold in that vicinity. He died in Jan. 1857, aged 54 years.
In 1812, the attention of the philosophical world was attracted by
one of the most singular phenomena in the history of the human
mind which has appeared in modern times. It was the case of Zerah
Colburn, a child under eight years of age, who, without any previous
knowledge of the rules of arithmetic, or even of the use and power
of the Arabic numerals, and without giving any particular attention
to the subject, possessed the faculty of solving a great variety of
arithmetical questions by the mere operations of the mind, and with
out the assistance of any visible symbol or contrivance.
Zerah Colbvrn was born in Cabot, in Vermont. Sept. 1, 1804. According to a
memoir, written by himself, in 1833, he was the sixth child of his parents, and was
by them, in his earlier years, considered as the most backward of any of .their
children.
"Sometime in the beginning of August, 1810, when about one month under six
years of age, being at home, while his father was employed at a joiner's work
bench, Zerah was on the floor, playing in the chips ; suddenly he began to say to
himself, ' 5 times 7 are 35 — 6 times 8 are 48,' etc. His father's attention being ar
rested by hearing this, so unexpected in a child so young, and who had hitherto
possessed no advantages, except perhaps six weeks' attendance at the district
school that summer, he left his work, and turning to him, began to examine him
through the multiplication table ; he thought it possible that Zerah had learnt this
from the other boys, but finding him perfect in the table, his attention was more*
deeply fixed; and he asked the product of 13X97, to which 1261 was instantly
given in answer. He now concluded that something unusual had actually taken
place ; indeed, he has often said he should not have been more surprised if some
one had risen up out of the earth and stood erect before him.
226 VERMONT.
It was not long before a neighbor rode up, and calling in, was informed of the
singular occurrence. He, too, desired to be a witness of the fact and soon it be
came generally known through the town. Though many were inclined to doubt
the correctness of the reports they heard, a personal examination attested their
truth. Thus the story originated, which within the short space of a year, found
its way, not only through the United States, but also reached Europe, and foreign
journals of literature, both in England and France, expressed their surprise at the
uncommon incident.
Very soon after the discovery of his remarkable powers, many gentlemen at
that time possessing influence and public confidence throughout the state, being
made acquainted with the circumstances, were desirous of having such a course
adopted as might most directly lead to a full development of his talent, and its ap
plication to purposes of general utility. Accordingly, Mr. Colburn carried his son
to Danville, to be present during the session of the court. His child was very gen
erally seen and questioned by the judges, members of the bar, and others. The
legislature of Vermont being about tb convene at Montpelier, they were advised to
visit that place, which they did in October. Here large numbers had an opportu
nity of witnessing his calculating powers, and the conclusion was general that such
a thing had never been known before. Many questions which were out of the
the common limits of arithmetic, were proposed with a view to puzzle him, but he
answered them correctly ; as, for instance, which is the most, twice twenty-five, or
twice five and twenty (2X25 or 2X5+20) ? Ans. Twice twenty-five. Which is
the most, six dozen dozen, or half a dozen dozen (6X12X12, or 6X12)? Ans. 6
dozen dozen. It is a fact too that somebody asked how many black beans would
make five white ones ? Ans. 5, if you skin them. Thus it appeared that not only
could he compute and combine numbers readily, but also he possessed a quickness
of thought somewhat uncommon among children, in other things."
Mr. Oolburn visited various parts of the United States with his son for the pur
pose of exhibiting his extraordinary power of calculation. Having resolved on a
voyage to Europe, they arrived in London in May, 1812, where they continued
about two years. Here Zerah attracted considerable attention, and was visited by
many of the nobility and the most distinguished persons in the kingdom. After
leaving London, Mr. Colburn and his son visited Ireland, Scotland, and finally
passed over to Paris, where Zerah was for a time a pupil in the Lyceum Napoleon.
He returned to London in 1816, and from thence to Birmingham. At this period,
being impoverished in their circumstances, the Earl of Bristol became his patron,
and placed him at the Westminster school. His father becoming dissatisfied with
some things relative to the school, he was taken from it in 1819. In order to sup
port himself, he was for a while an actor on the stage, and afterward opened a
small school. Mr. Colburn, harassed by the many disappointments and privations
of himself and son, fell a victim to his troubles, and died in February, 1823. Ze
rah now returned to this country, and removed to Burlington, Vt. Soon after his
return, his attention was drawn to the subject of religion, and having experienced
a change in his feelings, he joined the Congregational Church. Being dissatisfied
with some of the doctrines of that church, he united himself with the Methodist
Socie.ty in Cabot, Vt., in 1825. He soon became a devoted preacher in that de
nomination ; but he was an indifferent speaker. He died in 1840, in the 35th year
of his age.
The following is a list of questions answered by Zerah Colburn ; .they are ex
tracted from his memoirs, and are also to be found in other publications :
Admitting the distance between Concord and Boston to be 65 miles, how many
steps must I take in going this distance, allowing that 1 go three feet to a step ?
The answer, 114,400, was given in ten seconds.
How many days and hours since the Christian era commenced, 1811 years?
Answered in twenty seconds.
661,015 days.
15,864,360 hours.
How many seconds in eleven years? Answer in four seconds; 346,896,000.
What sum multiplied by itself will produce 998,001 ? In less than four seconds,
999.
VERMONT. 227
How many hours in 38 years, 2 months, and 7 days ? In six seconds, 334,488.
When at London, " at a meeting of his friends, which was held for the purpose
of concerting the best method of promoting the interest of the child by an educa
tion suited to his turn of mind, he undertook and succeeded in raising the number
8 to the sixteenth power, and gave the answer correctly in the last result, viz : 281,-
474,976,710,656. lie was then tried as to other numbers, consisting of one figure,
all of which he raised as high as the tenth power, with so much facility and dis
patch that the person appointed to take down the results was obliged to enjoin him
not to be too rapid. With respect to numbers consisting of two figures, he would
raise some of them to the sixth, seventh and eighth power, but not always with
equal facility; for the larger the products became, the more difficult he found it to
proceed. He was asked the square root of 106,929, and before the number could
be written down, he immediately answered, 327. lie was then requested to name
the cube root of 268,336,125, and with equal facility and promptness he replied
645.
Various other questions of a similar nature respecting the roots and powers gf
very high numbers, were proposed by several of the gentlemen present, to all of
which satisfactory answers were given. One of the party requested him to name
the factors which produced the number 247,483, which he did by mentioning 941
and 263, which indeed are the only two factors that will produce it. Another of
them proposed 171,395, and he named the following factors as the only ones, viz:
5X34279, 7X24485, 59X29905, 83X2065, 34X4897, 295X581, 413X415. He was
then asked to give the factors of 36,083, but he immediately replied that it had
none; which in fact was the case, as 36,083 is a prime number."
"It had been asserted and maintained by the French mathematicians that
4294967297 (=232-{-l) was a prime number; but the celebrated Euler detected
the error by discovering that it was equal to 641X6,700,417. The same number
was proposed to this child, who found out the factors by the mere operation of his
mind." On another occasion, he was requested to give the square of 999,999; he
said he could not do this, but he accomplished it by multiplying 37037 by itself,
and that product twice by 27. Ans. 999,998,000,001. He then said he could mul
tiply that by 49, which he did. Ans. 48,999,902,000,049. He again undertook to
multiply this number by 49. Ans. 2,400.995,198,002,401. And lastly, he multi
plied this great sum by 25, giving as the final product, 60,024,879,950,060,025. Va
rious efforts were made by the friends of the boy to elicit a disclosure of the meth
ods by which he performed his calculations, but for nearly three years he was un
able to satisfy their inquiries. There was, through practice, an increase in his
power of computation ; when first beginning, he went no further in multiplying
than three places of figures ; it afterward became a common thing with him to
multiply four places by four; in some instances five figures by five have been
given."
The question will naturally arise, by what means or process was this faculty of
computation acquired? In the absence of any satisfactory explanation by others,
it will be proper to let the subject of this notice give his own testimony on the
subject. The following are his words, extracted from different parts of his me
moirs. [It will be observed he speaks of himself in the second person.]
"The inquiry has often been made whether the gift was natural or supernatu
ral; his answer is that it is partly both; understanding by this, not the putting
forth of Divine energy in the entirely new creation of a faculty hitherto unknown
to the mind, but the uncommon extension of a faculty already given, and common
to all ; extension in a manner beyond the operations of nature, as we see her ex
hibited, and therefore supernatural; but natural, in as much as every one is, to a
certain extent, able to compute by mental process alone.
That such calculations should be made by the power of mind alone, even in a
person of mature age, and who had disciplined himself by opportunity and study,
would be surprising, because far exceeding the common attainments of mankind:
that they should be made by a child six years old, unable to read, and ignorant of
the name or properties of one figure traced on paper, without any previous effort
to train him to such a task, will not diminish the surprise. The remembrance
that this faculty was bestowed and exercised under such circumstances, while it
15
228 VERMONT.
necessarily prompts the possessor to speak of it as wonderful indeed, at the same
time precludes all room lor boasting, if he were thus disposed ; for it ever has been,
and still is, as much a matter of astonishment to him as it can be to any other
one ; God was its author, its object and aim perhaps are still unknown.
In relation to the faculty of computation which he possessed, he would observe
that in every particular, from its first development to the present day, it has been
to him a matter of astonishment. He has felt, and still feels, that it was undoubt-
edly a gift from his Maker, and consequently designed to be productive of some
valuable ends. What the specific object was, is unknown.
This may be a suitable place for introducing a few remarks concerning the mind
of Zerah in regard to other things than mental calculation. As might be ex
pected from the nature of his early gift, he ever had a taste for figures. To answer
questions by the mere operation of mind, though perfectly easy, was not anything
in which he ever took satisfaction ; for, unless when questioned, his attention was
not engrossed by it at all. The study of arithmetic was not particularly easy to
him, but it afforded a very pleasing employment, and even now, were he in a situ
ation to feel justified in such a course, he should be gratified to spend his time in
pursuits of this nature. The faculty which he possessed, as it increased and
strengthened by practice, so by giving up exhibition, began speedily to depreciate.
This was not, as some have supposed, on account of being engaged in study ; it is
more probable to him that the study of any branch that included the use and prac
tice of figures would have served to keep up the facility and readiness of mind.
The study of algebra, while he attended to it, was very pleasant, but when just
entering upon the more abstruse rules of the first part, he was taken away from his
books and carried to France."
Col. Martin Scott was born in Bennington, about the year 1800, and was edu
cated at West Point. u In his youth he was famous among the sharp-shooters of
tho Green Mountains, never shooting game in the body, but, at whatever hight or
distance, always striking the head. He would drive a nail into a board part way
with a hammer, and then, taking the farthest distance at which his eye could dis
tinctly see it, drive it home with his unerring bullet. He had seen much hard ser
vice, and always conducted himself with great skill, caution, and intrepidity, and
was respected and beloved for his integrity of character, and for his great kindness
and benevolence of heart." When at the battle of Molino del Key, the men of his
regiment were being mowed down by the Mexican batteries with terrible slaugh
ter, and at a moment when they had no opportunity to make any return, most of
them sought shelter behind a projecting bank; but Scott stood upright. Observ
ing his peril, and its uselessness in the circumstances in which he was placed, his
men besought him to take cover. "No!" said he, in disdainful tones, "Martin
Scott never skulks!1' In a moment more he fell dead, pierced by a ball through
the forehead, and thus perished, said a comrade in arms, "the best soldier of the
fifth regiment"
MASSACHUSETTS.
ARMS OF MASSACHUSETTS.
MOTTO. — "By the sicord he seeks peace under Liberty."
MASSACHUSETTS, the oldest of the New England States, and the
first in population and resources, was first permanently settled by
Europeans at Plymouth, on the 22<1
of December, 1620. The word
Massachusetts signifies, it is said,
in the Indian language, Blue Hill*.
In 1614, Capt. John Smith, so
famous in the history of Virginia,
sailed to this part of the country
then called North Virginia. Touch
ing first at the mouth of the Ken-
nebec, he passed thence in an open
boat to the southern boundary of
Massachusetts Bay. On his return
to England, Prince Charles was so
much pleased with Smith's descrip
tion of the country, that he declared
it should be called New England.
By the representations of Smith,
attention was excited : the Plymouth Company began to form vast
plans of colonization, and after several years of application obtained
a new charter for settling the country. The original Plymouth Com
pany was superseded by the Council of Plymouth, to which was con
veyed in absolute property all the territory lying between the 40th
and 48th degrees of north latitude, extending from the Atlantic to
the Pacific. This charter was the basis of all the grants afterward
made of the country of New England.
In 1602, a number of religious people in the north of England,
called Puritans (so named from their efforts to preserve purity in
divine worship), were so persecuted on account of their religious sen
timents, that they were compelled to take measures to find refuge in
a foreign land. As early as 1608, they emigrated to Holland, and
settled first at Amsterdam, and afterward at Leyden, where during
eleven years they continued to live in great harmony under the
charge of their pastor, John Robinson, a man of eminent piety and
learning.
As early as 1617, Mr. Robinson's people meditated a removal to
America. Their reasons for this were to preserve the morals of their
youth, and to establish a church which they believed to be constituted
(229 ^
230 MASSACHUSETTS.
after the model of the primitive church of Christ ; and also to gratify
a desire to propagate the gospel in the regions of the new world.
In 1620, having obtained a grant from the London or Virginia
Company, a company left Leyden, amid the tears of their brethren
and friends. They embarked on board of the Mayflower at Ply
mouth for Hudson River. After a long voyage, the first land they
discovered was Cape Cod. This was beyond the limits of the London
Company, but it was now too late to put again to sea. They there
fore determined to land at the first place suitable for a settlement.
On the 21st of November, they anchored in Cape Cod Harbor ; but
before landing having devoutly given thanks to the Almighty for
their safe arrival, they formed themselves into a body politic by a
solemn contract, to which they all subscribed. They ordained that a
governor and assistants should be annually chosen, but that the sove
reign power should remain in the whole body of freemen. Mr. John
Carver was unanimously chosen their governor for the first year.
Before the end of November, Peregrine White, the son of William and
Susanna White, was born, being the first child of European parents
born in New England.
Government having been established, the next object was to find a
convenient place for settlement. Parties were sent out to make dis
coveries. Capt. Myles Standish, with a party of sixteen armed men,
in their explorations found baskets of corn in different heaps of sand,
some of which they took with them. This fortunate discovery fur
nished them with seed for planting, and probably saved the infant
colony from famine. On the 6th of December, the shallop was sent
out with several of the principal men, Carver, Bradford, Winslow,
Standish, and others, with eight or ten seamen, to sail round the bay
in search of a place for settlement. On the 21st of December (cor
responding with the llth of old style), the harbor of Plymouth was
sounded, and being found fit for shipping, a party landed, who ascer
tained that the soil had been cultivated by the Indians ; they there
fore concluded to make it the place of their settlement. The 22d of
December has since been considered as the day on which the " Pil
grim Fathers " landed on the rock of Plymouth.
The whole company who landed consisted of 101 souls, and they were
divided into 19 families. Each family built their own house or hut ; they
all, however, united in building a store-house 20 feet square for common
use. The buildings of the settlement progressed slowly, many difficulties
occurred, many of the men became sick with colds and consumption, and
want and exposure rapidly reduced their number. The sick often suffered
for lack of care and attention, and at one time only seven men were capable
of rendering any assistance. Before April, 46 of their number had died.
"On the 16th of March, an Indian caine into Plymouth alone, and surprised the
inhabitants, by calling out in broken English, ' Welcome, Englishmen ! Welcome,
Englishmen ! ' He was the first of the natives who visited them ; his name was
tSamoset, and was a Sagamore who had coine from Monhic/gon (a place now in the
limits of Maine) where he had learned something of the English tongue from the
captains of the fishing vessels who resorted thither. He informed the Plymouth
people that the place where they were seated was called by the Indians Patuxet;
MASSACHUSETTS. 231
that all the inhabitants died of an extraordinary plague about four years since ;
and that there was neither man, woman nor child remaining. No natives, there
fore, were dispossessed of their land to make room for the English, excepting by
the providence of God, before their arrival.
Samoset was treated with hospitality by the settlers, and was disposed to pre
serve an intercourse with them; and on his third visit brought Squanto, one of
the natives who had been basely carried off by Capt. Hunt, in 1614. and afterward
lived in England. These Indians informed the English that Massasoit, the great
est king of the neighboring tribes, was near, Avith a train of 60 men. The meet
ing between him and the English, was conducted with considerable formality and
parade. They entered into a friendly treaty, wherein they agreed to avoid inju
ries on both sides, to punish offenders, to restore stolen goods, to assist each other
in all justifiable wars, to promote peace among their neighbors, etc. Massasoit
and his successors, for 50 years, inviolably observed this treaty. The prudent
and upright conduct of the Plymouth settlers toward their neighbors, the Indians,
secured their friendship and alliance. On the 13th of September, 1621, no less
than nine sachems declared allegiance to King James, and Massasoit, with many
eachems under him, subscribed a writing acknowledging the king of England as
their sovereign.
The first marriage in the colony was solemnized on May 12, 1621, between Mr.
Edward Winslow and Mrs. Susanna White. The first duel in New England was
fought on the 18th of June, between two servants, both of whom were wounded.
For this disgraceful offense, they were formally tried before the whole company,
and sentenced to have "their heads and feet tied together, and so to be 24 hours
without meat or drink." Such, however, was the painfulness of their situation,
and their piteous entreaties to be released, that, upon promise of better behavior
in future, they were soon released by the governor. The colonists planted 20
acres with corn, of which they had a good crop. They were instructed in the
manner of planting by Squanto; but were unsuccessful in their first trial with
English grain, by reason, as is supposed, of the lateness of the season, and bad
quality of the seed. (lov. Carver was taken sick on the 5th of April, while engaged
in planting corn, and died in a few days. His death was greatly lamented, as he
was a man of great piety, humility, and benevolence. He possessed a consider
able estate, the greater part of which he expended for the good of the colony.
Soon after his death, Mr. William Bradford was chosen governor, and by renewed
elections continued in office for several years.
In 1627, an association of Puritans residing at Dorchester and its vicinity,
in England, was formed for the purpose of establishing another colony in
New England. In 1628, they obtained, from the Plymouth Company, a,
grant of the territory which now constitutes a part of the state of Massachu
setts, and sent over under the direction of John Endicott, a small number
of people to begin a plantation. These landed at Naumkeag, now called
Salem. The next year they obtained a charter from the crown by which
the usual powers of a corporation were conferred upon the grantees, by the
name of the "governor and company of Massachusetts Bay" in New Eng
land. At a general court in London, in 1629. the officers prescribed by the
charter were elected, and several ordinances were adopted for the govern
ment of the colony : 300 people were sent over, of whom 100 dissatisfied
with the situation of Salem, removed to Charlestown.
It having been wisely resolved, by the company in England, that the gov
ernment of the colony should be located in Massachusetts, it gave such en
couragement to emigration, that in 1630 more than 1,500 persons came over
and founded Boston, and several towns in its vicinity. " Of these persons,
all were respectable, and many from illustrious and noble families." Having
been accustomed to a life of ease and enjoyment, their sufferings, for the
first year, were great, and proved fatal to many; among others, to the lady
Arabella, who, to use the words of an early historian, "came from a paradise
232 MASSACHUSETTS.
of plenty and pleasure, in the family of a noble earl, into a wilderness of
wants; and though celebrated for her many virtues, yet was not able to en
counter the adversity she was surrounded with; and, in about a month after
her arrival, she ended her days in Salem, where she first landed." Mr.
Johnson, her husband, overcome with grief, survived her but a short time.
Before December, 200 other persons perished. The cold was intense, and
being straightened for provisions, the settlers were obliged to subsist on
clams, muscles, nuts, acorns, etc.
In 1635, 3,000 new settlers came over, among whom were Hugh Peters
and Sir Henry Vane, two persons who afterward acted conspicuous parts in
the history of England. Sir Henry Vane, then a young man, having gained
the affections of the people by his integrity and pious zeal, was, the next
year, appointed governor. About this period, Mrs. Ann Hutchinson, a
woman distinguished for her eloquence, instituted weekly meetings, for her
sex, in which she commented on the sermons of the preceding Sunday, and
advanced certain mystical and extravagant doctrines. Gov. Vane, with Mr.
Cotton and Wheelright, two distinguished ministers, with many of the peo
ple, became converts; but Lieut. Gov. Winthrop, and a majority of the
churches, deemed them heretical and seditious. Great excitement was pro
duced, until at length Mrs. Hutchinson, and some of her adherents, were
banished from the colony in 1637.
In 1637, Massachusetts, Plymouth and Connecticut agreed to unite their
forces against the Pequots, one of the most haughty and war-like tribes in
New England. It ended in the total defeat and ruin of the hostile tribe.
The success of the English, in this first and short war with the natives, gave
the neighboring Indian tribes, such an exalted idea of their powers, that,
for nearly 40 years, they were neither attacked nor molested. In 1643, four
of the New England colonies, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Plymouth, and
New Haven, formed themselves into a league or confederacy, offensive and
defensive, by the name of" The United Colonies of New England,'1 By the
articles of this league, each colony was to appoint two commissioners, who
were to assemble by rotation, in the several colonies, with power to enact
ordinances of general concern; and, in case of invasion, each colony was
bound upon application of three magistrates of the invaded colony, to furnish
a stipulated proportion of men and money. In 1641, the settlements in New
Hampshire were incorporated with Massachusetts, and in 1652, the inhabi
tants of the province of Maine, were, at their own request, taken under her
protection.
In the year 1656, began what is generally called the persecution of the
Quakers. The first who openly professed their principles in the colony,
were Mary Fisher and Ann Austin, who came from Barbadoes, in July, of
this year. In a few weeks after, nine others arrived in a ship from London.
Being called before the court, they gave such rude and contemptuous
answers, that they were committed to prison. As their principles were con
sidered, by the colonists, as destructive to their civil as well as religious
polity, the court passed the sentence of banishment upon them all. After
ward other severe laws were enacted, and, finally, in Oct. 1658, a law was
passed by a majority of one vote, that all Quakers who should return into
their jurisdiction after being banished, should suffer death. Under this law
four persons were executed.
The year 1675 is rendered memorable for the commencement of an Indian
war, called '''•King Philip's War" the most general and destructive ever sus-
MASSACHUSETTS. 233
tained by the infant colonies. Philip resided at Mount Hope, R. L, and for
a long time previous to the breaking out of the war, was jealous of the
whites. His object seems to have been to unite the Indian tribes to make a
combined effort to exterminate the colonies.
The first attack of the Indians, was at Swanzey, June 24th, where they
killed eight persons when returning from public worship. At the close of
the month, Brookfield was burnt, except one house, which was defended un
til relief canie to the inmates. Deerfield was also burnt, and Northficld
abandoned to the savages. On the 18th of September, Capt. Beers and 80
men, while guarding some carts conveying corn from Deerfield to Hadlcy,
were surprised, and almost every man slain. After this, Springfield was
partly destroyed, and Hadley assaulted. The Narragansetts having rendered
secret aid to the hostile Indians, it was determined to reduce them by a
winter expedition. For this purpose about 1,000 men, under Grov. Winslow,
marched late in December, wading in deep snow, and attacked their strong
hold, situated in a swamp in Rhode Island. The victory over the Indians
was complete; 700 of their fighting men perished in the action, and about
300 more died of their wounds. Their wigwams were burnt and their coun
try ravaged.
From this blow, called the Swamp Fight, the Indians never recovered. They
were not yet, however, effectually subdued. During the winter, the savages con
tinued murdering and burning. The towns of Lancaster, Medfield, Weymouth,
Groton, Springfield, Northampton, Sudbury, and Marlborough, in Massachusetts,
and of Warwick and Providence, in Rhode Island, were assaulted, and some of
them partly, and others wholly, destroyed. On the 12th of August, 1676, the
finishing blow was given to the Indian power, by the death of King Philip, who
was killed by a friendly Indian, in the vicinity of Mount Hope. In this distress
ing war, the English lost 600 men, the flower of their strength; 12 or 13 towns
were destroyed, and 600 dwelling houses consumed.
In Dec., 1686, Sir Edmund Andross arrived with a commission from King
James for the government of the New England colonies, with the exception
of Connecticut. His kind professions for a while encouraged the hopes of
the people. But he soon threw off the mask, and did many arbitrary acts,
whereby the people were oppressed, and himself arid followers were enriched.
The weight of his despotism fell with the greatest severity on Massachusetts
and Plymouth. In the beginning of 1689, a rumor reached Boston that
William, Prince of Orange, had invaded England with the intention of
dethroning the king. Animated with a hope of deliverance, the people
rushed to arms, took possession of the fort, seized Andross, Randolph, the
licenser of the press, and other obnoxious characters, and placed them in con
finement. William and Mary being firmly seated on the throne, Andross
and his associates were ordered home from trial. A new charter was received
in 1692, by Massachusetts, which added to .her territory, Plymouth, Maine
and Nova Scotia.
At this period, the French in Canada and Nova Scotia instigated the northern
and eastern Indians to commence hostilities against the English settlements. Do
ver and Salmon Falls, in New Hampshire, Casco, ill Maine, and Schenectady, in
New York, were attacked by different parties of French and Indians, and shock
ing barbarities committed. Regarding Canada as the principal source of their
troubles, New England and New York formed the bold project of reducing it bv
force of arms. For this purpose, they raised an army, under Gen. Winthrop, which
was sent against Montreal, and equipped a fleet, which, commanded by Sir Wm.
Phipps, was destined to attack Quebec. The season was so far advanced when the
fleet arrived at Quebec, Oct. 5, 1690, the French so superior in number, the weather
234 MASSACHUSETTS.
so tempestuous, and the sickness so great among the soldiers, that the expedition
was abandoned. Success had been so confidently expected, that no adequate pro-
rision was made for the payment of the troops. There was danger of a mutiny.
In this extremity, the government of Massachusetts issued Mils of credit, as a sub
stitute for money ; and these were the first ever issued in the American colonies.
In 1692, a great excitement was again revived in New England, on account of
the supposed prevalence of witchcraft. It commenced at this time in Danvers,
then a part of Salem. Near the close of February, several children in this place
began to net in a peculiar and unaccountable manner. Their strange conduct con
tinuing for several days, their friends betook themselves to fasting and prayer.
During religious exercises, the children were generally decent and still ; but after
service was ended, they renewed their former unaccountable conduct. This was
deemed sufficient evidence that they were laboring under the "influence of an evil
hand, or witchcraft." After a few days, these children began to accuse several
persons in the vicinity of bewitching them. Unfortunately they were credited,
and these suspected persons were seized and imprisoned. From this time, this
contagion spread rapidly over the neighboring country, and soon appeared in va
rious parts of Essex, Middlesex and Suffolk. Persons at Andover, Ipswich, Glou
cester, Boston, and other places, were accused by their neighbors and others. For
a time, those who were accused were persons of the lower classes. But at length,
some of the first people in rank and character were accused of the crime of witch
craft. The evil had now become awfully alarming. Before the close of Septem
ber, nineteen persons were executed ; and one (Giles Corey), was pressed to death
for refusing to put himself on a trial by jury; all these persons died profess
ing their innocence of the crime laid to their charge. At length the magistrates
became convinced that their proceedings had been rash and indefensible. A spe
cial court was held on the subject, and fifty who were brought to trial were ac
quitted, excepting three, who were reprieved by the governor. These events were
followed by a general release of all who were imprisoned. At this period the be
lief of the actual existence of witchcraft prevailed in the most enlightened parts
of Europe. The learned Baxter pronounced the disbeliever in witchcraft an "ob
durate Sadducee."
After a short peace, the French and Indian war was renewed. In 1704,
Deerfield, on the Connecticut River, was surprised, about 40 persons were
killed, and more than 100 made prisoners, among whom was Mr. Williams,
the minister, and his family. In 1710, New England, assisted by the mother
country, succeeded in reducing Port Royal, in Nova Scotia. Encouraged
by this success, Admiral Walker, with a fleet of fifteen ships-of-war, and an
army of veteran troops, sailed to make an attack on Quebec. The weather
proving tempestuous, many of his vessels were wrecked on the rocks, and
upward of a thousand men perished. This caused the abandonment of the
expedition. In 1713, peace was made between France and Great Britain at
Utrecht. In 1745, war having again taken place with France, Massachusetts
planned a daring and successful enterprise for the reduction of Louisburg.
For 14 nights in succession, the New England troops, sinking to their knees
in mud, drew their cannons and mortars through a swamp two miles in length.
On the 16th of June, the garrison was compelled to surrender.
The war at this period was brought to a close by the peace of Aix la
Chapelle, in 1748, by which all prisoners on each side were to be given up
without ransom, and all the conquests made to be mutually restored. In
1754, war again took place between Great Britain and France. Great exer
tions were made in the colonies for the reduction of the French power in
America. Four expeditions were planned ; one against Nova Scotia, the
second against the French on the Ohio, a third against Crown Point, and a
fourth against Niagara.
The expedition against Nova Scotia, consisting of three thousand men,
MASSACHUSETTS. 235
chiefly from Massachusetts, was led by Gen. Monckton and Gen. Winslow.
With these troops they sailed from Boston on the 1st of June, 1755, and ar
rived ut Chignecto, in the Bay of Fundy. Being joined by 300 regular
troops, they proceeded against Fort Beau Sejour, which surrendered after a
seige of four days. Other forts were taken, and Nova Scotia was entirely
subdued. In order that the French should not derive assistance from this
territory, the inhabitants, to the number of 7,000, were taken from the
country, and dispersed among the English colonies : 1,000 of these pre
scribed Acadians were transported to Massachusetts, where many of them
embarked for France. To prevent the re-settlement of those who escaped,
their houses were destroyed and the country laid waste.
The war continued with varied success, till the conquest of Quebec by the army
under Gen. Wolfe, in Sept., 1759, and the final reduction of Canada in 1760. This
event caused great and universal joy in the colonies, and public thanksgivings
were generally appointed. A definitive treaty, the preliminaries of which had
been settled the year before, was signed at Paris in 1763, by which all Nova Sco
tia, Canada, the Isle of Cape Breton, and all other islands in the Gulf and River
St. Lawrence, were ceded to the British crown.
After the peace of 1763, the British parliament formed a plan for raising a rev
enue by taxing the colonies. For this purpose, an act was passed for laying a duty
on all' paper, vellum, or parchment used in America, and declaring all writings on
unstamped materials to be null and void. This act, called the" Stamp Act, re
ceived the royal assent, March 22, 1765. When the news of this act reached the
colonies, the people everywhere manifested alarm, and a determination to resist its
execution. The assembly of Virginia first declared its opposition to the act by a
number of spirited resolves; but Massachusetts took the lead in this important
crisis, and maintained it in every stage of the subsequent revolution. In Boston,
the populace, in some instances, demolished the houses of the friends of the Brit
ish measures, and in various ways manifested the public indignation. To render
the opposition complete, the merchants associated, and agreed to a resolution not
to import any more goods from Great Britain until the stamp law should be re
pealed. To give efficacy to the opposition to this act, Massachusetts proposed a
meeting of deputies from the several colonies, to be held at New York in Oct.,
1765. Deputies from nine of the colonies met, agreed on a declaration of rights
and grievances, sent a petition to the king, and a memorial to both houses of par
liament. This spirited opposition, seconded by the eloquence of Mr. Pitt and
other friends of America, produced a repeal of the stamp act on the 18th of March,
1766.
The British ministry still persisting in their design of raising a rev
enue from America, passed an act, in 1767, for laying duties on glass,
painters' colors, paper and tea imported into America. These duties
were small, but the colonists objected to the principle, rather than
against the amount of the tax. By their petitions and remonstrances,
the abolition of all the duties was procured, except that of three pence
on every pound of tea. In order to sustain the authority of parlia
ment, four regiments were sent over and stationed in Boston ; and to
punish the refractory province of Massachusetts, especially the inhab
itants of Boston, the government and public offices were removed to
Salem. In May, 1774, Gen. Gage arrived, with the commission of
governor of Massachusetts and commancler-in-chief of the British
forces. The assembly organized themselves into a provincial congress,
took measures for defense, and collected military stores at Concord
and Worcester. The province being declared to be in a state of re
bellion, measures were taken to obtain obedience by force of arms.
236 MASSACHUSETTS.
The great drama of the revolution opened in Massachusetts, at Lexington, Con
cord and Bunker's Hill, and for about a year she sustained the first shock of the
struggle. On July 2, 1775, Gen. Washington arrived at Cambridge, and took the
command of the American army encamped at that place. He introduced military
order, and, with about 20,000 men, besieged the town of Boston. Batteries were
erected on Dorchester Hights, which greatly annoyed the shipping in the harbor,
and preparations were made for a general assault. On the 17th of May, 1776, the
British troops evacuated Boston, and, embarking on board of their vessels, sailed
for New York. After this time, the soil of Massachusetts, excepting some islands,
remained free from actual invasion.
In the year 1780, a constitution for the government of the Commonwealth of
Massachusetts went into operation ; it was formed by a convention of delegates ap
pointed by the people for that purpose. John Hancock was elected the first gov
ernor, and held the office by annual election till 1785. The year 1786 is rendered
memorable for Shays Rebellion. This insurrection was caused chiefly by the op
pressive debts contracted during the revolutionary war by individuals and corpo
rations throughout the state, and by the state itself. After the insurgents had held
conventions, interrupted the proceedings of the courts of justice in several counties,
and collected a considerable armed force, and thus greatly alarmed the govern
ment and agitated the community, they were entirely ^mt down and dispersed by
the state troops under the command of Gen. Shepherd and Gen. Lincoln.
The federal constitution of the United States was adopted by the convention of
Massachusetts in 1788, by a vote of 187 to 168, and the state was a firm supporter
of the administration of Washington, the first president. The embargo laid upon
American vessels in 1808, and other commercial restrictions, together with the
war with Great Britain in 1812, bore with severity upon the extensive commercial
interests of Massachusetts. Maine was a part of the state till 1820, and during
the war of 1812, a portion of its territory was in the hands of the enemy. The
war, and the acts of the national government, during its continuance, were unpop
ular with the majority of the citizens of the state.
Massachusetts has ever been one of the most distinguished members of the
American Confederacy. The spirit of her institutions has been transfused into
many of her sister states, and she may justly claim an elevated rank among the
members of this Union. During the great struggle of the revolution, Massachu
setts stood foremost ; the powerful and efficient efforts of her patriots and states
men, stand recorded on the pages of American history ; and the moldering bones
of her sons, whitening the battle fields of the revolution, show her devotion to the
cause of civil liberty.
MASSACHUSETTS is situated between 41° 23' and 42° 52' N. Lat., and
between 69° 50' and 73° 30; W. Long. It is very irregular in shape,
the S. E. portion projecting into the ocean. Its greatest length from
E. to W. is about 145 miles, and in the longitude of Boston it is about
90 miles broad, but in the central and western portion, it is not more
than 48 miles. It includes an area of about 7,800 square miles, or
4,992,000 acres, of which 2,133,436 are improved. It is bounded N.
by New Hampshire and Vermont ; E. by the Atlantic Ocean ; S. by
Rhode Island and Connecticut, and W. by New York. Population in
1790, 378,717; in 1850, 994,149, and in 1860, 1,231,497.
The surface of the state is generally uneven, and in some parts it
is rugged and mountainous. The middle, eastern, and north-eastern
portions are hilly and broken, and the south-eastern level and sandy.
The western portion, though mountainous, does not attain a very
great elevation above the sea. Through Berkshire county pass two
mountain ranges, the Tahkannic on the western border, and the Green
Mountain range separating the valleys of the Connecticut and Housa-
MASSACHUSETTS.
237
tonic. Saddle Mountain, the highest elevation, is near Williamstown,
and is 3,580 feet above tide water at Albany. The principal rivera
are the Connecticut, passing about 50 miles through the central part
of the state, the Housatonic in the western section, and the Merrimac
in the north-east.
Though the soil and climate of Massachusetts are not of the first
order for agricultural purposes, yet the skill and industry of her peo
ple have made even her rocky soil yield rich rewards to the husband
man. By her skill, enterprise, and industry, in manufacturing pur
suits, and by her wide extended commerce, she is able to support the
densest population in the United States, in the greatest average
amount of comfort. By the census returns, she stands first in the
amount of her cotton and woolen manufactures; she has also sur
passed the other states in industrial and mechanical improvement. In
commerce, the state is second only to New York in absolute amount;
hut if we regard population, first in this respect in the Union.
Eastern View of Plymouth.
[The view shows the central part of Plymouth, as it appears from the end of the Long Wharf. Burying
Ground Hill is in the central part in the distance, near which is seen the Unitarian, Universalist, and
Orthodox Churches : tho.Kobinson Church is on the extreme left, and the court house on the right. The
famous Plymouth Rock is on Hedge's Wharf, the wharf in the center of the picture.]
PLYMOUTH, the first permanent settlement by civilized man, in New
England, is situated at the bottom of a harbor on the south-western
part of Massachusetts Bay, 25 miles easterly from Taunton, and 37
south-easterly from Boston. Population about 6,000. The harbor is
spacious, but not of sufficient depth for the largest vessels. A con
siderable number of vessels belong here, most of which are engaged
in the fishing or coasting business. Ship building is carried on to
some extent. There are several cotton and other factories in the
place. Plymouth is compactly built upon the shore, upon an easy de
clivity, beneath the brow of an extensive pine plain. The declivity is
about one fourth of a mile in breadth, and upward of a mile and a
half in length.
238 MASSACHUSETTS.
Among the buildings worthy of note, there is the court house, the
church of the First Society, a gothic structure, and the Pilgrim Hall.
"Not a dwelling house of ancient date or antique form now remains
in town." The corner stone of the Pilgrim Hall was laid in 1824.
In 1834, Col. Sargent, of Boston, presented to the Pilgrim Society
his valuable painting, representing the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers
from the Mayflower, in 1620. This decorates the wall of the Pil
grim Hall. There is also deposited here an antique chair, said to
have belonged to Gov. Carver — the identical sword blade used by
Capt. Standish — the identical cap worn by King Philip — and also a
variety of Indian implements, etc. The following account of the first
celebration of the landing of the Fathers, is from Thatcher's History
of Plymouth :
"Friday, Dec. 22 (1769). The Old Colony Club, agreeably to a vote passed the
18th inst, met, in commemoration of the landing of their worthy ancestors in this
place. On the morning of the said day, after discharging a cannon, was hoisted
upon the hall an elegant silk flag, with the following inscription, 'Old Colony,
1620.' At 11 o'clock, A. M., the members of the club appeared at the hall, and
from thence proceeded to the house of Mr. Howland, innholder, which is erected
upon the spot where the first licensed house in the Old Colony formerly stood.
At half after two, a decent repast was served, which consisted of the following
dishes, viz:
" 1, a large baked Indian whortleberry pudding; 2, a dish of sauquetach (suc-
catch, corn and beans boiled together) ; 3, a dish of clams ; 4, a dish of oysters
and a dish of codfish; 5, a haunch of venison, roasted by the first jack brought
to the colony; 6, a dish of sea-fowl; 7, a dish of frost-fish and eels; 8, an apple
pie; 9, a course of cranberry tarts, and cheese made in the Old Colony.
"These articles were dressed in the plainest manner, all appearance of luxury
and extravagance being avoided, in imitation of our ancestors, whose memoiy we
shall ever respect At 4 o'clock, p. M., the members of our club, headed by the
steward, carrying a folio volume of the laws of the Old Colony, hand in hand,
marched in procession to the hall. Upon the appearance of the procession in
front of the hall, a number of descendants, from the first settlers in the Old
Colony, drew up in a regular file, and discharged a volley of small arms, suc
ceeded by three cheers, which were returned by the club, and the gentlemen gene
rously treated. After this, appeared at the private grammar school, opposite the
hall, a number of young gentlemen, pupils of Mr. Wadsworth, who, to express their
joy upon this occasion, and their respect for the memory of their ancestors, in the
most agreeable manner, joined in singing a song very applicable to the day. At
sun-setting a cannon was discharged, and the flag struck. In the evening the hall
was illuminated, and the following gentlemen, being previously invited, joined the
club, viz:
Col. George Watson, Capt. Gideon White, Mr. Edward Clarke,
Col. Jarnes Warren, Capt. Elkanah Watson, Mr. Alexander iScammell,
James Hovey, Esq., Capt. Thomas Davis, Mr. Peleg Wadsworth,
Thomas May hew, Esq., Dr. Nathaniel Lothrop, Mr. Thos. South worth How-
William Watson, Esq., Mr. John Russell, land.
" The president being seated in a large and venerable chair, which was formerly
possessed by William Bradford, the second worthy governor of the Old Colony, and
presented to the club by our friend Dr. Lazarus Le Baron of this town, delivered
several appropriate toasts. After spending an evening in an agreeable manner, in
recapitulating and conversing upon the many various advantages of our fore
fathers in the first settlement of this country, and the growth and increase of the
same, at 11 o'clock in the evening a cannon was again fired, three cheers given,
and the club and company withdrew."
In 1820, a society was instituted at Plymouth, called the Pilgrim Society, and
MASSACHUSETTS. 239
was incorporated by the legislature of the state. The design of this association is
to commemorate the "great historical event" of the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers,
"and to perpetuate the character and virtues of our ancestors to posterity." The
centennial celebration of the landing of the Pilgrims this year, was one of uncom
mon interest, and the concourse of people was far greater than on any former cele
bration. The lion. Daniel Webster was selected as the orator on the occasion.
"A procession was formed at 11 o'clock, soon after the business of the Pilgrim
Society was transacted, and, escorted by the Standish Guards, a neat independ
ent company, lately organized, and commanded by Capt. Coomer Weston, moved
through the'main street of the town to the meeting house, and, after the services
of the sanctuary, were attended by the same corps to the new court house, where
they sat down to an elegant though simple repast, provided in a style very proper
for the occasion, where the company was served with the treasures both of the
land and sea. Among other affecting memorials, calling to mind the distresses of
the Pilgrims, were five kernels of parched corn placed on each plate, alluding to
the time, in 1623, when that was the proportion allowed to each individual, on ac
count of the scarcity. John Watson, Esq., respectable by his years, and dignified
by his gentlemanly manners, and the only surviving member of the Old Colony
Club, presided during the hours of dinner."
During the great mortality among the settlers the first winter, the
dead were buried on the bank a short distance from the rock where
the Fathers landed. Their graves were leveled and sown, to conceal
from the Indians the extent of their loss. Immediately in the rear
of Plymouth village is Burying Hill, formerly Fort Hill. It embraces
about eight acres, and rises to the hight of 165 feet above the level
of the sea. On the summit of the south-western side, the Pilgrims
at first built some slight defenses; but in 1675, on the approach of
Philip's war, they erected a fort 150 feet square, strongly palisaded,
10J- feet high, and the whole circuit of this fortification is distinctly
visible.
The view presented from this eminence is rarely excelled by any in the coun
try. Beyond the points of land forming the harbor, the great Bay of Massachu
setts opens to the view, bounded at the southern extremity by the peninsula of
Cape Cod. On the north appears the village of Duxbury, and the handsome coni
cal hill, once the property and residence of Capt. Standish, the military comman
der of the Plymouth colony. Burying Hill is so named from its being used as the
burying place of the town ; and it is a matter of some surprise that 60 years
should have elapsed, before a grave-stone was erected to the memory of the "dead
at Plymouth. It is probably owing to their poverty and want of artists. A con
siderable number of the oldest are of English slate-stone. The oldest monument
in the yard is for Edward Gray, a respectable merchant, whose name is often
found in the old records. The inscription is, "Here lies the body of Edward
Gray, Gent, aged about 52 years, and departed this life the last of June, 1681.''
The following are also copied from monuments standing on Burying Hill:
Here lyes ye body of ye Hon. William Bradford, who expired February ye 20, 1703-4, aged
79 years.
He lived long, but was still doing good,
And in his country's service lost much blood.
After a life well spent he's now at rest;
His very name and memory is blest.
Here lyeth buried ye body of that precious servant of God, Mr. Thomas Cushman, who,
after he had served his generation according to the will of God, and particularly the church
of Plymouth, for many years in the office of ruling elder, fell asleep in Jesus, December
ye 10, 1691, and in the 84th year of his age.
The famous forefathers' rock on which the Pilgrims landed in 1620,
240
MASSACHUSETTS.
PLYMOUTH BOCK.
is still standing in its original position ; but just now even wit hthe
surface of the ground, the place around it having been filled in with
soil to construct the wharf known as Hedges' Wharf. " Here for
^^ scores of years it has re
mained, a part of the
ra. v ^; .: pavement of the street,
trodden under foot of
man and beast. Often
and again,when the men
tion of its name, in the
eloquent speech of the
orator, has been received
with acclamations and
thunders of applause, it
has been lying here cov
ered- with the mud and
mire of this obscure
street." A fragment of
the rock has been re
moved, and now stands
in the yard of Pilgrim
Hall, where it is inclosed
by an elliptical iron rail
ing, composed of alter
nate harpoons and boat hooks, and inscribed with the names of the
illustrious forty-one, who subscribed the compact on board the May
flower at Cape Cod Harbor, Nov. 11, 1620. On the rock, a granite
bowlder, is painted in huge figures, " 1620."
The annexed engraving is a
view of the old Allyn House, on
the site of which stands the Uni-
versalist Church. It was pulled
down in 1826, being at the time
the oldest dwelling in the town,
having stood at least 150 years.
It was the birth-place of the
mother of the celebrated orator,
James Otis. The outline of the
harbor of Plymouth is shown,
and the ship marks the spot where
the Mayflower anchored in 1620.
The following extract upon
Plymouth, from D wight's Travels, is valuable for its history and reflections :
Plymouth was the first town built in New England by civilized men; and those
by whom it was built, were inferior in worth to no body of men, whose names are
recorded in history during the last 1700 years. The institutions, civil, literary,
and religious, by which New England is distinguished on this side of the Atlantic,
began here. Here the manner of holding lands in fee simple, now universal in
this country, commenced. Here the right of suffrage was imparted to every citi
zen, to every inhabitant, not disqualified by poverty or vice. Here was formed
THE ALLYN HOUSE.
MASSACHUSETTS. 241
the first establishment of towns ; of the local legislature, which is called a town
meeting; and of the peculiar town executive, styled the Select Men. Here the
first parish school was setup; and the system originated, for communicating to
every child in the community the knowledge of reading, writing, and arithmetic.
Here, also, the first building was erected for the worship of God ; the first reli
gious assembly gathered ; and the first minister called, and settled, by the voice
of the church and congregation. On these simple foundations has since been
erected a structure of good order, peace, liberty, knowledge, morals, and religion,
to which nothing, on this side of the Atlantic, can bear a remote comparison.
On Saturday morning, accompanied by I. L., Esq., and Mr. H., we visited the
consecrated rock, on which the first Fathers of New England landed. We next pro
ceeded to the common cemetery and examined the names on a great number of
the monuments; many of which had already been rendered familiar to us by
history.
Had the persons, anciently buried here, been distinguished for nothing but be
ing the first planters of New England, they would, according to the dictates of my
own mind, have been entitled to a consideration, in some respects peculiar; and
could not have been blended by memory with the herd of those who are gone.
But when I call to mind the history of their sufferings on both sides of the Atlan
tic; when 1 remember their pre-eminent patience, their unspotted piety, their im
movable fortitude, their undaunted resolution, their love to each other, their jus
tice and humanity to the savages, and their freedom from all those .stains, which
elsewhere spotted the character even of their companions in affliction ; I can not
but view them as a singular band of illustrious brothers, claiming the veneration
and applause of all their posterity. By me the names of Carver, Bradford, Cush-
man, and Standish, will never be forgotten, until I lose the power of recollection.
Bradford and Carver were the fathers of the colony, at a time, and in circum
stances, when few of our race would have hazarded, or suffered, so much, even
for the promotion of religion itself. Their patience and constancy were primitive;
and their piety and benevolence would not have dishonored an apostle.
I could not but feel, with great force, the peculiar care of divine providence
over these colonists, in conducting them to this spot. The savages in the neigh
borhood had, during the preceding year, been entirely destroyed" by an epidemic;
and the country was, therefore, become, throughout a considerable extent, en
tirely useless to its owners. Hence they were willing to sell it to the colonists.
Besides, the disease had so much reduced their numbers, that they were en
dangered by the formidable power of their neighbors, the Narragansets. Instead
of regarding the English, therefore, with that jealousy which is so universal, and
so important, a characteristic of savages, they considered them as seasonable
allies, by whom they might be secured from the hostilities of their neighbors.
Hence they welcomed the English with kindness and hospitality. The friendship,
begun between Massasoit and the colonists, continued through his life; and al
though at times, and in small degrees, weakened by the arts of his neighbors, was
in full strength at his death.
The place, where they landed, was furnished with a safe harbor, of sufficient
depth to admit their own commercial vessels, and yet too shallow to receive ves
sels of force. The soil on which they planted themselves, was, to an extent suffi
cient for all their purposes, excellent. This ground bordered the ocean, and on
that side, therefore, was safe. On the land side it was easily, and entirely, de
fended by a single fort. The barrenness of the interior prevented them from
wandering, to which almost all colonists have a strong propensity. Excursions
into the country would have awakened the jealousy of their neighbors, and sub
jected the colonists to a most capricious hostility, from individuals at least, if not
from the tribe; a hostility against which savage principles could furnish no se
curity, and savage government no protection. The settlers of Plymouth were, by
this fact, retained in a cluster; and were thus preserved from probable destruc
tion. Here, also, they found water at their doors in springs, and in a fine mill-
stream, of the best quality.
The climate, notwithstanding the mortality experienced the first year, was emi
nently healthy. The bay furnished them with fish in abundance for food and for
242
MASSACHUSETTS.
commerce, both at the time«indispensable; and opened an extensive trade with
the Indians of the coast for articles of great demand in their native country. In
this manner they were enabled to pay their debts, and supply many future wants.
Here they found, what was of incalculable importance to them at the commence
ment of their settlement, an Indian, named Tisquantum or Sqiianto; who, by ac
cident, had contracted a friendship for the English, and became at once, and
throughout his life continued to be, their friend. This man, more mild and gene
rous than most of his countrymen, was very useful to them in many particulars
of great importance. He became their interpreter. He taught them how to plant,
to manure with fish, and to preserve maize : a plant, indispensable to their sub
sistence, and the means of their preservation, at various times, from famine and
death. He also conciliated to them the good will of his brethren ; and gave them
repeated and timely information of danger from the savages, even at the hazard of
his life.
In no other place could these advantages have been found: but all these they
enjoyed here, until their numbers, wealth, and knowledge of the country enabled
them to extend their settlements with safety and success.
They were originally destined to Hudson's River; but the captain, bribed by
the Dutch government, conducted them to New England. Notwithstanding the
baseness of this conduct, and notwithstanding the superior advantages possessed
by the city, and state, of New York at the present time, it is, I think, clearly evi
dent, that they landed in a place, incomparably better suited to the nature of their
enterprise, their wants, and their welfare. The Dutch settlers were aided by their
own government in Europe, and were yet hardly able to preserve themselves from
ruin. The colonists of Plymouth had no such aid; and would probably have per
ished by famine, or been cut off by war, soon after they had reached the shore.
North-eastern mew of Provincetown.
Several frames or flukes, on which codfish are dried, are seen in front ; also, numerous wind-mills to
raise the water for the making of salt. The codfishery of the Union employs 2,000 vessels, and about 10,000
men, mostly Now Englanders ; when dried and salted, the value of the fish annually taken is two millions
of dollars. The perils and hardships of the business breed the most rugged and brave of men.
PROVINCETOWN, the extremity of Cape Cod, was incorporated a
township in 1727, and invested with peculiar privileges — the inhabit
ants being exempted from taxation. For a time it was flourishing,
but in 1748, became reduced to a few families. After the revolution,
it again was prosperous. Cape Harbor, in Cape Cod Bay, is formed by
the bending of the land nearly round every point of the compass, by
MASSACHUSETTS. 243
which it is rendered completely land-locked and safe. It is of suffi
cient depth for ships of any size, and of a capacity to contain more
than 3,000 vessels at once. This was the first harbor the Mayflower
touched at on her passage to Plymouth, in 1620, and here it was
that Peregrine White, the first English child in New England, was
born.
Provincetown stands on the north-western side of the harbor, on
the margin of a loose beach of sand. The houses are mostly situated
on a single street, about two miles in length, passing round near the
water's edge. A chain of sandhills rise immediately back from the
houses. These hills are in some places covered with tufts of grass or
shrubs, which appear to hold their existence by a frail tenure on these
masses of loose sand, the light color of which strongly contrasts with
the few spots of deep verdure upon them. These elevations, with the
numerous wind mills, by which the water is raised for evaporation,
thickly studding the shore throughout the whole extent of the village,
give the place a most singular and novel appearance.
The houses of Provincetown, like most of those throughout the
whole extent of the cape, are one story in hight, and with their out
buildings, stand along the street without much order or regularity.
Interspersed among them, and by the side of the street, are seen nu
merous flukes, or frames, standing up from the ground about two feet,
on which the codfish are dried. The street is narrow, and has very
little the appearance of a traveled road. The sand is so loose that it
drifts about the houses, fences, etc., like snow in a driving storm.
Although near the ocean on every side, good fresh water is obtained
by digging at a moderate depth a few feet from the shore. Province-
town is 27 miles, across the bay, from Plymouth, and 116 miles by
land, and 50 by water, from Boston. Population, upward of 3,000.
The easternmost land in Massachusetts, comprehending the whole of the penin
sula of Cape Cod, is so named from the large number of codfish taken near it by one
of its first discoverers. It was incorporated in 1685. The shape of the penin
sula is that of a man's arm bent inward both at the elbow and wrist; its whole
length is 65 miles, and its average breadth about five. The basis of this penin
sula, constituting almost the whole mass, is a body of fine yellow sand; above this,
is a thin layer of coarser white sand; and above this another layer of soil, gradu
ally declining from Barnstable to Truro, where it vanishes. In many parts of the
county the traveler, while viewing the wide wastes of sand, is forcibly reminded
of descriptions given of the deserts of Arabia. Notwithstanding the general bar
renness of the soil, the inhabitants of this county are in as comfortable and even
thrifty circumstances as in almost any section of this country. The inhabitants
generally derive their subsistence from the fishing and coasting business, arid it
may be said of the majority of the men who are born on the cape, that in one
sense, " their home is on the ocean," and when with their families they are only on a
visit. To a great extent they are dependent on Boston and other places for a large
proportion of their meats and bread stuffs. The county has but little wood, but it
is well stored with peat. The manufacture of salt receives great attention.
Dr. Dwight, who traveled through the whole length of the peninsula of Cape Cod,
thus describes what he says "may be called with propriety Cape Cod houses."
"These have one story, and four rooms on the lower floor; and are covered on the
sides, as well as the roofs, with pine shingles eighteen inches in length. The
chimney is in the middle, immediately behind the front door, and on each side of
the door are two windows. The roof is straight; under it are two chambers; and
16
244 MASSACHUSETTS.
there are two larger and two smaller windows in the gable end. This is the gen
eral structure and appearance of the great body of houses from Yarmouth to Race
Point. There are, however, several varieties, but of too little importance to be do-
scribed. A great proportion of them are in good repair. Generally they exhibit
a tidy, neat aspect, in themselves and their appendages, and furnish proofs of com
fortable living, by which I was at once disappointed and gratified. The barns are
usually neat, but always small."
Taunton, one of the shire towns in Bristol county, is at the head
of navigation of Taunton River, 32 miles south from Boston, and 20
from Providence, R. I. It contains 10 churches, several manufactur
ing establishments, and about 16,000 inhabitants. Iron works were
established here as early as 1652. The first settlers were mostly from
Somersetshire and Devonshire, and many of them from Taunton, in
England. About the period of its settlement, Miss Elizabeth Pool, a
lady of good family and fortune, from Taunton, in Somersetshire,
Eng., conceived the design of occupying the territory of Cohannet,
the Indian name of Taunton. It appears that the ardent desire of
planting another church in the American wilderness, induced this
pious puritan lady to encounter all the dangers and hardships of form
ing a settlement in the midst of the Indians. She died in 1654. The
following is the inscription on her monument in the ancient burying
ground :
Here rest the remains of Mrs. ELIZABETH POOL, a native of old England of good Family,
Friends & prospects, all of which she left in the prime of her life to enjoy the Religion of
her Conscience in this distant wilderness. A great proprietor of the township of Tauntou,
a chief promoter of its settlement and its incorporation, A. D. 1639, about which time she
settled near this spot, and having employed the opportunytys of her virgin state in Piety,
Liberality of manners, died May 21st, A. D. 1654, aged 65, to whose memory this monu
ment is gratefully erected by her next of kin lohn Borland, Esq. A. D. 1771.
A cemetery has of late years been laid out in the immediate vicin
ity of the main village of Taunton (called Mt. Pleasant Cemetery),
upon the plan of that of Mt. Auburn. A monument to the memory
of Miss Pool stands near the entrance of the cemetery, on which is
the following inscription :
The Females of Taunton have erected this monument in honor of ELIZABETH POOL, found
ress of the town of Taunton, in 1637. Born before the settlement of America, in England,
1589, died at Taunton, May 21, 1654.
Rev. William Hooke, who must be considered the first pastor of the Taunton
church, was born in the year 1600. He married the sister of Edward Whalley, a
major general in the Parliament's army, one of the regicides, so called, from being
one of the judges who condemned Charles I to death. Mr. Hooke left Taunton about
1640, and removed to New Haven, Conn., from whence, in 1656, he returned to
England. He was received in the family of the Lord Protector, Oliver Cromwell,
as domestic chaplain. After the restoration of Charles 11, he was silenced for
non-conformity, and died in London, in 1677.
FALL RIVER, one of the most flourishing towns in Massachusetts, is 54
miles from Boston by the railroad, 30 from Providence, and 17 S. from
Taunton. Population, about 14,000. The great business of the town,
and that which mainly has given to it its present importance, is man
ufacturing. Fall River, from whence the town derives its name rises
in the Wattuppa Ponds, about two miles easterly from the town. The
area of these ponds is about 5,000 acres, being about eleven miles in
length, and nearly one in breadth. The ponds are mainly produced by
MASSACHUSETTS. 245
perpetual springs. The descent in the river, in less than half a mile,
is more than 130 feet. This fall is now occupied by large manufac
turing establishments, each generally occupying a separate dam, and
some of the mills extend across the river from bank to bank.
Southern view of Fall River.
The landing, Iron works, etc., at the mouth of Fall River, are seen on the loft ; the linen and other mills
on the right.
The harbor of Fall River is upon what is usually known as the
Taunton River, though more properly speaking, upon Mt. Hope or
Narraganset Bay. This harbor has a sufficient depth of water for
ships of the largest class, and is capacious enough almost to accom
modate the ships of the whole world. The place has within its bor
ders, and in its immediate vicinity, an abundance of granite, equal in
quality to any in the country. The immense fortifications in New
port Harbor have been mainly constructed with granite from this
place. It is also extensively used in the construction of buildings in
Fall River and other places. A great fire occurred here July 2,
1843, in which about 200 buildings, one factory, a large hotel, and
three churches were destroyed. The celebrated " Dighton Rock,"
which has caused so much speculation among learned men, is situated
some 8 or 10 miles up Taunton River from Fall River.
New Bedford, one of the shire towns of Bristol county, is 55 miles
S. from Boston, and 24 from Taunton. It is on the west side of As-
cushnet River, an arm of the sea which sets up from Buzzard's Bay.
The ground on which New Bedford is built, rises beautifully from the
river; and as the town is approached from the water it presents a fine
appearance. A bridge and causeway three fourths of a mile long con
nect it with Fair Haven. The harbor is safe and capacious, though
not easy of access. The place is regularly laid out. Among the
buildings of note are the Town Hall, the Custom House and Court
246
MASSACHUSETTS.
House. The Friends' Academy for young ladies is a handsome struc
ture, environed with beautiful grounds. Population is about 22,000.
Few places have been more liberal in providing the means of educa
tion in the public schools. The public library, under the patronage
of the city, contains about 13,000 volumes, to which large additions
are yearly made. All the inhabitants are permitted to borrow books
from this library without any other restrictions than those necessary
for the safety of the books. A splendid road about three and a half
miles long, runs round Charles' Point, at the southern extremity of
the city. This wras built by the city expressly for a drive, at the cost
of about $70,000, and is probably unequaled in the country.
The whale fishery and other branches of business connected with it,
has been the leading pursuit of the inhabitants. As early as the year
1754, the settlers of New Bedford sent out their small vessels as far
as the Falkland Islands after these monsters of the deep. The vessels
engaged in this business have at some periods amounted to nearly 400,
and the number of seamen on board to 10,000. A large portion of
the right whale oil is exported to the north of Europe. " The whale
fishery has proved lucrative, and New Bedford is believed to be one
of the richest cities, in proportion to the number of its inhabitants,
anywhere to be found."
Eastern View of New Bedford.
The Indian name of New Bedford was Acchusnutt or Acusfinet. It was incor
porated as a town in 1787, previous to which it formed a part of the town of Dart
mouth. At what time, and by whom the first settlement was commenced in the
limits of the town does not distinctly appear. It is supposed, however, that the
Friends or Quakers were the first white inhabitants. The first settled minister ap
pears to have been the Rev. Samuel Hunt, who died about the year J735 ; it is sup
posed he was ordained here about 1700. The next minister was Rev. Richard
MASSACHUSETTS. 247
Pierce ; he was settled in 1735, and was succeeded by Rev. Mr. Cheever. Mr.
Cheever was dismissed in 1759, and was succeeded by Rev. Samuel West, D.D.,
who was settled in 1761. The villages of New Bedford and Fairhaven, on the op
posite side of the river, were settled about the same time, 1764. The first house in
New Bedford village was built by Mr. John Louden, of Pembroke. The land on
which the place is built was owned by a Mr. Russell. This being the family name
of the Duke of Bedford, Mr. J. Rotch, one of the principal purchasers and settlers,
declared that the place where they built should go by the name of Bedford. It
afterward received the prefix New, on account of there being another town of the
same name in the limits of the commonwealth. Mr. Rotch, a member of the
society of Friends, was a man of sagacity and enterprise. He speedily built a
house, stores, and wharves ; and was joined by several associates. By his previous
knowledge of the whaling business which he had acquired in Nantucket, Mr.
Rotch and his friends were able to carry on this business to great advantage,
which has been a source of great wealth and prosperity to the place to the present
time. ' By his peculiar address he procured first from the government of France,
and then from that of Great Britain, the privilege of exporting oil to those coun
tries, duty free ; and was thus enabled to carry on his own business with the
highest profit, and essentially to befriend that of his neighbors.' "
The island of Nantucket is about 15 miles long from E. to W., and
4 broad. It was formerly well wooded, but for many years it has not
had a single tree of native growth. The soil is quite light and sandy,
and the greater part of the island is but a naked plain ; it however
affords pasturage for about 1,500 sheep, 500 cows and other cattle.
The town of Nantucket, which embraces nearly all the houses on the
island, is very compactly built, most of the streets are narrow, and the
principal part of the houses are of wood. It is situated about the center
of the island, on the north side, 110 miles from Boston, 55 S. E. of
New Bedford, and about 30 from Hyannis, on Cape Cod.
Nantucket has a good harbor, and is nearly land-locked by two
points of beach, about three-fourths of a mile apart. About two
miles from the shore to the north is a bar, over which all vessels com
ing in have to pass : vessels drawing nine feet of water may, with
good pilots, enter the harbor. Nantucket has within a few years past
become a place of resort during the warm season. The climate is cool
and the air bracing. The inhabitants are intelligent, social, and a
general air of refinement appears to prevade the whole community.
Many of the wealthy citizens have beautiful cottages at Sias-conset,
at the east end of the island, where they reside during the warm
season.
In the place are 10 houses of public worship, an atheneum, contain
ing a lecture room, museum, and a library of over 3,000 volumes.
Great attention is paid to the education of youth. The Coffin School
was founded by Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin of the British navy, who, on
visiting the island in the year 1826, found that a large number of the
inhabitants were related to him. Having expressed a desire to confer
some mark of attachment on his kindred, it was suggested that the
establishment of a school would be the most acceptable. He accord
ingly authorized the purchase of a building for a school, and funded
for its support £2,500, which sum he afterward increased.
The whale fishery began here in 1690. Ichabod Paddock came from
248 MASSACHUSETTS.
Cape Cod to instruct the people in the art of killing whales in boats
from the shore. The Nantucket whalemen have ever been considered
as at the head of the whale fishery in America, if not in the world.
They have at present between 40 and 50 vessels, and about 1,300
hands employed in this business.
" At the breaking out of the revolution, in 1775, Nantucket had 150 vessels, and
employed in them 2,200 men, on whaling voyages. They took annually about
30,000 barrels of oil The peculiar interests of the islands suffered severely by
the war, at the close of which the number of whaling vessels was reduced to 30.
The enterprise of the people received another check in the late war, but has since
again restored the business of the island to its accustomed channels and extent
In 1822, there belonged to the town, 88 whaling vessels, averaging 300 tuns each.
The Nautucket whalemen now extend their voyages to the coast of Brazil, in
South America, and frequently to the Pacific Ocean, and are often absent two or
three years. The vessels designed for these distant voyages are generally navi
gated by 20 or 30 men. The terms on which the men are employed are somewhat
peculiar. The owners of the vessel and its appurtenances receive a certain stipu
lated part out of the profits of the voyage, and the remainder of the proceeds is
divided among the officers and seamen, according to certain rules previously known
and understood by all parties. So that if the vessel meets with great success, the
pay of the men, who navigate it, will be high ; but if the vessel have less success,
their pay will be proportionably less.
Whales are sometimes found 200 feet in length, but generally are less than half
that size. These monstrous animals are attacked by only six or eight men in an
open boat. When in the region frequented by whales, the crew of the vessel in
pursuit of them keep a sharp look-out, with all things ready for an attack. The
instant a whale is discovered upon the surface of the water, a boat is manned for
the pursuit One man, the most daring and dextrous in the business, is armed
with a harpoon, an instrument five or six fe«t long, with a barbed point. He
stands up, with his weapon in his hand, in the bow of the boat, while the others
row, under his direction, with all possible dispatch toward the enemy, and usually
to within eight or ten yards of him. The harpooner, having taken his position to
the best advantage, and made all things ready for the blow, hurls his weapon with
all his strength, and aims to strike some part of the whale least protected by his
thick skin. This is a moment of intense interest, for the success of a whole
voyage may essentially depend upon a single stroke of the harpoon. It is also a mo
ment of imminent danger; for one blow from the tail of the wounded and enraged
animal might upset the boat and dash it into a thousand pieces. The men, there
fore, hastily withdraw a short distance from their danger, and wait the effects of
their first onset.
As soon as the whale becomes sensible of his wound, he dives into the water
with incredible velocity for so heavy and unwieldly an animal, carrying the har
poon, held fast in his wound by its barbed point. Several hundred fathoms of
line, fastened at one end to the harpoon and the other attached to the boat, are
frequently run out before the whale is exhausted and obliged to return to the top
of the water for air. The harpooner stands ready to attack him again the moment
he appears, and fastens another weapon in some part of his body. The whale
again dives for a short time, and returns only to receive a new attack. At length,
exhausted by nis wounds and the loss of blood, which colors the water for some
distance around him, he yields to his conquerors. He is then towed by the boat to
the vessel, which keeps as near as possible to the scene of battle, the crew wit
nessing with the deepest interest its progress and result. Several days are then
spent in dissecting the prize and disposing of the valuable parts, when the crew
are ready for a new and similar exploit. The profits of a voyage have frequently
been from $30,000 to $50,000, and sometimes more."
Martha's Vineyard constitutes the principal part of Duke's county.
This island is 20 miles in length and six in breadth, and it is divided
MASSACHUSETTS. 249
into three townships. The greater part of the island is low, level
land ; at the western end there is a range of hills which rise to the
hight of 250 feet, and terminate at Gay Head, a cliff formed of dif
ferent colors. Although a large portion of the island is woodland,
and many people engaged in the fisheries and coasting trade, yet con
siderable wool and woolen cloth is sent from Martha's Vineyard.
Edgartown, the principal place on the island, is 85 miles from Bos
ton, 30 from New Bedford, and 25 from Nantucket. Population,
about 2,000. The inhabitants are principally engaged in navigation
and fisheries. The harbor is safe, easy of access, and is considered
one of the best on the coast.
At the time of the settlement, the Indians were very numerous in this town, per
haps more so than in other parts of the island. The Indians of Martha's Vine
yard were hospitable, and more tractable than those on the main. Governor Mayhew
and his son, as soon as they became settled, attempted to civilize them, and their suc
cess surprised and delighted the pious of that age. The younger Mr. Mayhew
labored in this benevolent work with diligence and fervor until his death, in 1657,
when it was assumed by his father, and in a few years by his son, and it was car
ried on by some member of the family until the beginning of the present century.
Nearly all the Indians on the island became professed Christians. At first they
were called catechumens, but were formed into a church in 1659, and from this,
another church arose in 1670.
The English found most essential advantages from the ascendency which was
gained over their minds ; they were disarmed of their rage, they were made friends
and fellow-subjects. In King Philip's war all the Indian nations on the main were
confederated against the English. Alarm and terror were diffused on every side,
but Gov. Mayhew was so well satisfied with the fidelity of these Indians that he
employed them as a guard, furnished them with the necessary^ ammunition, and
gave them instructions how to conduct themselves for the common safety in this
time of imminent danger. So faithful were they that they not only rejected the
strong and repeated solicitations of the natives on the main to engage in hostili
ties, but when any landed from it, in obedience to their orders which had been
given them, they conducted them, though sometimes their near relations, to the gov
ernor, to attend his pleasure. The English, convinced by these proofs of the sin
cerity of their friendship, took no care of their own defense, but left it entirely to
the Indians; and the storm of war which raged on the continent was not suffered
to approach, but these islands enjoyed the calm of peace. This was the genuine
and happy effect of Mr. Mayhew's wisdom, and of the introduction of the Christ
ian religion among the Indians.
BOSTON, the capital of Massachusetts, the metropolis of New Eng
land, and the second commercial city of the Union, is mostly situated
on a peninsula about three miles long, with an average breadth of one
mile, at the head of Massachusetts Bay, and possesses one of the best
harbors in the United States. It is 214 miles from New York, 158
from Albany, 985 from Cincinnati, 439 from Washington, and 1,809
from New Orleans. Population, in 1800, was 24,937 ; in 1820, 43,-
298 ; and in 1860, 177,902. Owing to the almost insular situation of
Boston, and its limited extent, its population, as compared with other
large cities, does not fairly represent its relative importance. It
has several populous localities in the immediate vicinity, which are, in
a certain sense, but parts of the city. The population, then, of Bos-
250 MASSACHUSETTS.
ton, within three miles of the center of the city, at this time may be
estimated at about 240,000.
The Indian name of Boston was Shawmut, which is supposed to have signified a spring
of water. The first English name given to it wa3 Trimountain, the literal signification of
which is " three mountains ; " for Boston was originally composed of three hills. These
afterward received the names of Copp's, Fort, and Beacon Hills. On the last there were
three distinct eminences, so elevated as to give this hill the appearance of a mountain,
when viewed from the low grounds of Charlestown. These eminences have been since
called by the names of Mount Vernou, Beacon and Pemberton Hills.
In 1GSO, the Plymouth Colony, by the agency of the Earl of Warwick and Sir Ferdi-
uando Gorges, obtained from the council for New England its last patent. Preparations
having been made in the early part of the year, a fleet of fourteen sail, with men, women
and children, arrived in Massachusetts Bay on the 6th of July. In this fleet came Gov.
Winthrop, Dep. Gov. Dudley, and several other gentlemen of wealth and distinction, to
gether with about fifteen hundred other passengers. On the arrival of the principal ships
at Charlestown, the governor and several of the patentees, having viewed the bottom of
the Bay of Massachusetts, pitched down on the north side of Charles River, and took
lodgings in the great house built there the preceding year. It appears to have been the in
tention of the governor and company to have settled at this place, but the prevalence of a
mortal sickness, which they ascribed to the badness of the water, induced them to remove.
At this time the Rev. Wm. Blackstone, an Episcopal minister, rather of an eccentric char
acter, located himself on the peninsula of Shawmut, in a solitary manner, in a small cot
tage which he built on the west side. Going over to Charlestown, he informed the gov
ernor of an excellent spring of water at Shawmut, and invited him over to his side of the
river. The principal gentlemen of the company, induced by this invitation, crossed the
river, and finding it an eligible place, began a settlement there, by the erection of small
cottages. The place was named Boston, in compliment to Rev. John Cotton, who was at
that time a preacher in Boston, in Lincolnshire, England, who was expected over very
soon to join the colony. The town records for the first four years from the settlement of
Boston are lost, but the records of the first church have been preserved, and in them it is
probable the names of almost all the adult population at that time are inserted.
About the year 1663, Boston was described in Johnson's " Wonder
working Providence" in the following manner :
" Invironed it is with brinish flood, saving one small Istmos, which gives free access to
the neighboring towns by land, on the south side, on the north-west and north-east. Two
constant fairs are kept for daily trafique thereunto. The form of this town is like a heart,
naturally situated for fortifications, having two hills on the frontier part thereof next the
sea, the one well fortified on the superficies thereof, with store of great artillery well
mounted ; the other hath a very strong battery built of whole timber, and filled with earth.
At the descent of the hill, in the extreme poynt thereof, betwixt these two strong arms,
lies a cove or bay, on which the chief part of this town is built, overtopped with a third
hill ; all these like overtopping towers, keep a constant watch to see the approach of for
eign dangers, being furnished with a beacon and loud babbling guns, to give notice by their
redoubled echo to all the sister towns. The chief edifice of this city-like town is crowded
on the sea banks, and wharfed out with great labour and cost ; the buildings beautiful and
large, some fairly set forth with brick tile, stone and slate, and orderly placed with semely
streets, whose continual enlargement pressageth some sumptuous city. But now behold
the admirable acts of Christ, at this his people's landing ; the hideous thickets in this place
were such that wolves and bears nurst up their young from the eyes of all beholders, in
those very places where the streets are full of girls and boys, sporting up and down with
continued concourse of people- Good store of shipping is here yearly built, and some very
fair ones. The town is the very mart of the land ; Dutch, French and Portugalls come
here to trafique."
The harbor of Boston is defended by Forts Warren and Indepen
dence, the former of which is on Governor's Island, and the latter on
Castle Island. The inner harbor has a depth of water sufficient for
500 vessels of the largest class to ride in safety, while the entrance is
so narrow as hardly to admit two vessels abreast. Boston consists of
three parts, viz : Boston .on the peninsula, the main part; South Bos
ton, formerly a part of Dorchester ; and East Boston. The " Neck,"
MASSACHUSETTS.
251
which in early times formed the only connection of Boston with the
main land, is over one mile in length, and still constitutes the main
avenue to the city from the south. The western avenue, or mill-dam,
constructed at an expense of about $700,000, six bridges, eight rail
roads, and three ferries, connect Boston with the surrounding country.
East Boston, connected with old Boston by steam ferry boats, is on
the margin of one of the larger islands in the harbor, formerly known
as Noddle's Island. The island, containing 660 acres, was purchased
South-western view of Boston.
The engraving shows the central part of Boston, as it appears from near the intersection of the Provi
dence and Worcester Railroads. The State House, with its towering dome, and the " Common," are seen
in the central part.
by a company, in 1832, for the purpose of laying out a section of the
city there. It is now becoming a place of extensive business. Among
the principal establishments, is an extensive steam flouring mill, and
an immense sugar refinery. The Cunard line of steam ships from
Liverpool have their wharf here.
South Boston was set off from Dorchester by the legislature in 1804.
It contains about 700 acres, and spreads out about two miles on the
south of Boston Harbor above the forts. It is laid out into regular
252 MASSACHUSETTS.
streets and squares. Near the center of this tract, and about two
miles from the City Hall, are the memorable " Dorchester Rights,"
famous in revolutionary history, which rise 130 feet above the sea,
furnishing from their summits a magnificent view of Boston, its har
bor, and the surrounding country. One of these elevations is now occu
pied by a capacious reservoir of the Boston water-works. On these
nights the Americans under Washington, in 1775, erected a fortifica
tion, which soon compelled the British to evacuate Boston.
The State House, crowning the summit of Beacon Hill, the most
elevated spot in Boston, has a most commanding situation. It gives
character to the distant view of the city from whatever direction it is
approached. The site was purchased from the estate of JOHN HAN
COCK, the patriot, and is called in the deed " Governor Hancock's pas
ture." The venerable mansion of Gov. Hancock is hard by, and is the
only relic which has withstood the march of modern improvement in this
part of the city. The corner-stone of the State House was laid on
the 4th of July, by the venerable Samuel Adams, who succeeded Han
cock as governor of the commonwealth. It is 173 feet in length, and
61 in breadth, and its foundation is 110 feet above the level of the
sea. The hight of the lantern on the top of the dome is 110 feet : the
dome itself is 50 feet in diameter, and 30 in hight. It is ascended by
a spiral stairway on the inside, and from its top is presented one of
the most interesting and magnificent spectacles in this country, com
prising the harbor, bay, and surrounding cities, towns, villages, and
places of historic interest.
The old State House still stands on State and "Washington streets.
On this spot was the seat of government in Massachusetts for 140
years. The first building was constructed in 1659, the second in
1714, and the present in 1748. 'Since the removal of the capitol to
Beacon Hill in 1798, the old State House has been used for a city
hall and postoflice, and more recently for stores and offices for men
of business. A few rods from this building, fronting State street
(formerly King street) on the night of the 5th of March, 1770, the
"Boston massacre" took place. The presence of an insolent military
force, sent over to overawe the inhabitants, was extremely irksome to
a free people, and it could not be expected that harmony could long
subsist between the inhabitants of Boston and the British troops. A
slight affray took place between them on the 2d of March ; but on the
night of the 5th the enmity of the parties burst forth in violence and
blood. To commemorate the bloody tragedy which ensued, an anni
versary oration was instituted in Boston, which was annually pro
nounced by some distinguished citizen until the close of the revolu
tion. The following details of the "Boston Massacre" are from
u Snow's History of Boston : "
" The officers were apprehensive of difficulties, and were particularly active in their en
deavors to get all their men into their barracks before night. Murray's Barracks, so
called, where the 14th regiment was principally quartered, were in Brattle street, in the
buildings directly opposite the little alley which leads from the bottom of Market street.
The 29th regiment was quartered in Water street aaid in Atkinson street. As a measure
MASSACHUSETTS. 253
of precaution, there was a sentinel stationed in the alley before mentioned (then called
Boylston's alley), and this very circumstance led to the quarrel which terminated in the
Boston massacre. Three or four young men, who were disposed to go through the alley,
about nine o'clock, observed the sentinel brandishing his sword against the walls and strik
ing fire for his own amusement. They offered to pass him and were challenged, but per
sisted in their attempt, and one of them received a slight wound on his head. The bustle
of this rencounter drew together all those who were passing by, and 15 or 20 persons
thronged the alley, and 30 or 40 more, gathered in Dock square, were attempting to force
their way to the barracks, through Brattle street (which was at that time so narrow that a
carriage could, with difficulty, pass). Being foiled in this attempt, the party, which was
continually increased by accessions, gathered in Dock square round a tall man with a red
cloak and white wig, to whom they listened with close attention two or three minutes, and
then gave three cheers and huzzaed for the main guard.
" The main guard was regularly stationed near the head of State street, directly opposite
the door on the south side of the town house. To this place all the soldiers detached for
guard duty were daily brought, and from thence marched to the particular posts assigned
them. On this day the command of the guard had devolved on Capt. Thomas Preston, and
Lieut. Basset under him.
" As the party dispersed from Dock square, some ran up Cornhill, others up Wilson'a
lane, others up Royal Exchange lane, (now Exchange street.) These last found a single
sentinel stationed before the door of the custom house, which was the building now occupied
by the Union Bank, and then made one corner of that lane, as the Royal Exchange tavern did
the other. As the sentinel was approached, he retreated to the steps of the house, and
alarmed the inmates by three or four powerful knocks at the door. Word was sent to
Lieut. Basset that the sentinel was attacked by the town's people. He immediately sent a
message to his captain, who instantly repaired to the guard-house, where Lieut. Basset in
formed him that he had just sent a sergeant and six men to assist the sentry at the custom
house. ' Well,' said the captain, ' I will follow them and see they do no mischief.' He
overtook them before they reached the custom house, where they joined the sentinel and
formed a half circle round the steps.
" By this time the bells were set to ringing, and people flocked from all quarters, sup
posing there was fire. The soldiers were soon surrounded ; many of those nearest to them
were armed with clubs and crowded close upon them ; those at a distance began to throw
sticks of wood and snow-balls, and pieces of ice at them, while from all sides they were
challenged to Fire, fire, if you dare ! At last they thought they heard the order given, and
they did fire in succession from right to left. Two or three of the guns flashed, but the
rest were fatal. Crispus Attucks, Samuel Gray, and James Caldwell, were killed on the
spot, Samuel Maverick and Patrick Carr received mortal wounds, of which the former died
the next morning, and Carr, on the Wednesday of the next week. Several other persons,
were more or less injured : the greater part, persons passing, by chance, or quiet spectators
of the scene. The people instantly retreated, leaving the three unhappy men on the
ground. All this transpired within 20 minutes from the time of Capt. Preston's joining
the guard.
" 'On the people's assembling again,' says Capt. P., 'to take away the dead bodies, the
soldiers, supposing them coming to attack them, were making ready to fire again — which I
prevented by striking up their fire-locks with my hand. Immediately after, a townsman
came and told me that 4 or 5,000 people were assembled in the next street, and had sworn
to take my life, with every man's with me; on which I judged it unsafe to remain there
any longer, and, therefore, sent the party and sentry to the main guard, where the street
is narrow and short, then, telling them off into street firings, divided and planted them at
each end of the street to secure their rear, expecting an attack, as there was a constant cry
of the inhabitants, 'To arms, to arms, turn out with your guns!' and the town drums
beating to arms. I ordered my drum to beat to arms, and being soon after joined by the
several companies of the 29th regiment, I formed them, as the guard, into street firings.
The 14th regiment also got under arms, but remained at their barracks. I immediately
sent a sergeant with a party to Col. Dalrymple, the commanding officer, to acquaint him
with every particular. Several officers going to join their regiment, were knocked down
by the mob, one very much wounded and his sword taken from him. The lieutenant gov
ernor and Col. Carr soon after met at the head of the 29th regiment, and agreed that the
regiment should retire to their barracks, and the people to their houses; but I kept the
piquet to strengthen the guard. It was with great difficulty that the lieutenant governor
prevailed on the people to be quiet and retire ; at last they all went off except about 100.'
This 100 was composed of some of the most distinguished inhabitants, who volunteered to
form a citizens' guard.
"A justice's court was forthwith held, and Capt. Preston surrendered himself, and was
254 MASSACHUSETTS.
committed to prisou, at three the next morning; the eight soldiers also were committed
early in the forenoon.
"At 11 o'clock a town meeting was held. Various persons related to the assembly what
they had witnessed of the events of the preceding day. A committee of 15 was appointed
to wait on the lieutenant-governor and Col. Dalrymple, and express to them the sentiment
of the town, that it was impossible for the soldiers and inhabitants to live in safety to
gether, and their fervent prayer for the immediate removal of the former. The answer re
ceived to this application was not such as was wished ; and in the afternoon, seven of the
first committee, viz: John Hancock, Samuel Adams, Wm. Molineux, Wm. Philips, Joseph
Warren, Joshua Henshaw, and Samuel Pemberton, were again deputed with the following
message : ' It is the unanimous opinion of this meeting, that the reply made to a vote of
the inhabitants presented his honor this morning, is by no means satisfactory; and that
nothing less will satisfy them, than a total and immediate removal of the troops.' Samuel
Adams acted as 'chairman of this delegation,' and discharged its duties with an ability
commensurate to the occasion. Col. Dalrymple was by the side of Hutchinson, who, at
the head of the council, received them. He at first denied that he had power to grant the
request. Adams plainly, in a few words, proved to him that he had the power by the
charter. Hutchinson then consulted with Dalrymple in a whisper, the result of which was,
a repetition of the offer to remove one of the regiments, the 14th, which had had no part in
the massacre. At that critical moment Adams showed the most admirable presence of
mind. Seeming not to represent, but to personify, the universal feeling, he stretched forth
his arm, as if it were upheld by the strength of thousands, and with unhesitating prompt
ness and dignified firmness replied, ' If the Lieutenant-governor, or Col. Dulrymple, or both to
gether, have authority to remove one regiment, they have authority to remove, two; and nothing
short of the total evacuation of the town, by ail the regular troops, will satisfy Ihe public mind or
preserve the peace of the province.'* The officers, civil and military, were in reality abashed,
before this plain committee of a democratic assembly. They knew the imminent danger
that impended; the very air was filled with the breathings of compressed indignation.
They shrunk, fortunately shrunk, from all the arrogance which they had hitherto main
tained. Their reliance on a standing army faltered befoie the undaunted, irresistible reso
lution of free unarmed citizens.
" Hutchinson consulted the council, and they gave him their unqualified advice, that the
troops should be sent out of town. The commanding officer then pledged his word of
honor that the demand of the town should be complied with, as soon as practicable ; and
both regiments were removed to the castle in less than 14 days.
" The funeral solemnities, which took place on Thursday, the 8th, brought together the
greatest concourse that probably had ever assembled in America on one occasion. Attucks,
who \vas a friendless mulatto, and Caldwell, who also was a stranger, were borne from
Faneuil Hall ; Maverick, wrho was about 17 years old, from his mother's house in Union
street, and Gray from his brother's in Royal Exchange lane. The four hearses formed a
junction in King street, and thence the procession marched, in columns of six deep,
through the main street to the middle burial ground, where the four victims were deposited
in one grave."
Boston Common, situated partly on the north-western declivity of
Beacon Hill, comprises about 75 acres of land. With its beautiful
malls or walks upon its whole border, shaded with majestic elms, some
of which are over 100 years old, and its numerous cross-paths, graded
and adorned with variegated shade trees, this spot is among the most
delightful promenades in this country. One of its greatest charms is
in its diversified natural surface. This fine park is inclosed by a
costly iron fence one mile and 217 yards in length. Near the center
is a beautiful little pond, from which a fountain throws up a jet of
water from 80 to 90 feet. The public garden of 25 acres, is at the
western border of the common.
Faneuil Hall Market is situated immediately east of Faneuil Hall,
fronting on what was formerly called town dock. It extends 535 feet
in length, and is 50 feet in width; the center part of the building 74
feet by 55, rises to the hight of 77 feet, and is surmounted by a beau
tiful dome. The wings are two stories in hight, and the lower floors
MASSACHUSETTS.
255
FANEITIL HALL.
are exclusively appropriated as a meat, fish, and vegetable market.
The upper story, called Quincy Hall, is one vast room or hall, so con
structed as to be divided into several compartments for warerooms, or
all thrown into one for large sales, fairs, or exhibitions of mechanical
or agricultural products.
Faneuil Hall is three stories high, 100 feet by 80, and was the gift
of Peter Faneuil, Esq., to the town in 1742. The building was mate
rially enlarged by additions to
its width and hight in 1805.
Before the new market was
built, the lower part was used
for meat stalls ; it is now im
proved for stores. The great
hall is 76 feet square and 28
feet high, with deep galleries
on three sides, and capable of
containing 6,000 persons stand
ing. It is adorned with superb
paintings of patriots, warriors,
and statesmen, among which is
the original full length portrait
of Washington by Stuart. On
the 14th of March, 1763, a speech was pronounced in the hall by James
Otis, Jr., Esq., in which he dedicated it to the cause of freedom, a
cause in which he labored and suffered, and it has since received the ap
pellation of " The cradle of liberty"
The Merchants' Exchange is a magnificent structure, completed in
1842. It covers 13,000 feet of land. The Custom House is one of
the most magnificent and elaborately finished buildings in the United
States : it was commenced in 1837, and not fully completed until 1849.
The whole cost, including the site, was about $1,076,000. It is situ
ated between Long Wharf and Commercial Wharf, and is in the form
of a Greek cross, surmounted over the transept by a dome, which,
like the whole roof of the building, is entirely of granite tile to the
sky-light. Its foundations rest on 3,000 piles driven in the most ef
fective manner.
The Massachusetts Historical Society was incorporated in Feb. 1794. The ob
ject of this society is to collect, preserve, and communicate materials, for a com
plete history of this country, and accounts of all valuable efforts of human inge
nuity and industry, from the beginning of its settlement, etc. "The library
consists principally of printed books and MSS. on American history, though by no
means exclusively confined to it. It numbers near 6,000 articles, many of which
are precious. The most ancient MSS. are, probably, a fragment of the laws of
Hoel Dha, in Welsh, and a specimen, in a medical treatise, of the English lan
guage in the reign of Richard IT, with an illuminated missal, and a few similar
productions. Then follow autograph letters and treatises of several of the fathers
of New England. A large collection of these, and of documents of a more recent
date, had been made by Gov. Trumbull, of Connecticut, and are now bound in 23
volumes folio, the property of this society." The publications of the society have
consisted almost entirely of their "COLLECTIONS." These now extend to two de-
256 MASSACHUSETTS.
cades, and six volumes of a third. Among the collections of the society, are a
number of ancient and modern paintings of distinguished persons. Among these
is a portrait of the first Gov. Winslow, supposed to have been painted by Vandyke.
The Boston Atheneum originated in 1806, and has now become a
most valuable and splendid library, with all desirable conveniences for
literary pursuits. There are more than 1,000 shares, and the privi
leges attached to them are so great that the institution is virtually
almost a public one.
The imposing edifice now occupied by it, on Beacon street, with the land on
which it stands, cost nearly $200,000. It contains the library, reading-room, pic
ture gallery, and statuary gallery. One of its halls is occupied by the American
academy of arts and sciences, whose library is accessible for consultation by pro
prietors of the atheneum; and this, added to their own library of about 60,000 vol
umes (in 1856). makes the largest collection of books, under one roof, in New Eng
land. The corner stone of the present building was laid in 1847, and the inscrip
tion on a silver plate, deposited beneath it, is the following:
" The corner stone of this building, dedicated to letters and the arts, by the
proprietors of the Boston Atheneum, was laid on the 27th day of April, in the year
of our Lord, 1847, and in the 41st year of the institution; which, founded by the
exertions of William Smith Shaw, and other members of that association of inge
nious scholars, 'the Anthology Club,' has, in later days, been enlarged and
adorned by the generosity and public spirit of many contributors, and especially
by the munificence of James Perkins, Thomas Handasyd Perkins, his brother,
James Perkins, his son, and John Bromfield. Whenever this stone shall be re
moved, may it be only to improve and perpetuate the institution,"
The Lowell Institute is one of the munificent institutions of Bos
ton, established by the princely liberality of John Lowell, jr., Esq.
By a legacy of $250,000, he has provided for the maintenance of pub
lic lectures, of the highest order, which are to be free to all the citi
zens, on the great subjects of natural and revealed religion, on litera
ture, sciences, etc. The Massachusetts general hospital is one of the
best institutions of die kind in the country. The McLean asylum for
the insane ; the Perkins institution for the education of the blind, and
the Massachusetts school for teaching idiots, are all flourishing insti
tutions. There are also a very large number of charitable societies
of almost every kind.
There are about 120 churches in Boston, more than 100 of which
hare their regular places of worship. The oldest church edifice is
that of Christ's Church [Episcopal], at the north part of the city,
built in 1723. In the steeple of this church is a peal of eight bells,
with an inscription on each. Two of these are as follows :
" We are the first ring of bells cast for the British empire of North America, A. R. 1744.
God preserve the Church of England, 1744."
The old South meeting-house on Washington street, is the next
building in age, having succeeded two others of wood on the same
spot. It was opened for worship in 1730. Here Warren delivered
his fearless oration on the anniversary of the massacre of 1770.
When the British occupied Boston, the interior of this church was dis
mantled and converted into a riding school.
Boston is supplied with water from Lake Cochituate, conveyed in
an aqueduct 20 miles to the city, and is capable of supplying from
MASSACHUSETTS.
257
10 to 12,000,000 of gallons daily. The fall from the lake to the
Brookline Reservoir, is 426 feet, making the hight of water in the res
ervoir, at its lowest level, 120 feet above high water mark. The
Brookline Reservoir is a beautiful structure, covering 38 acres, and
will contain 100,000,000 of gallons. The Beacon Hill Reservoir is
a structure of massive stone-masonry, capable of holding over 2,500,-
000 gallons ; the South Boston Reservoir is capable of holding 7,000,-
000 of gallons.
Benjamin Franklin, LL.D., was born in Boston, Jan. 17, 1706, and
served an apprenticeship to the printing business. He showed a phi
losophic mind from his earliest years, and by the
continual exercise of his genius, prepared himself
for those great discoveries in science, which have
associated his name with that of Newton, and for
those political associations, which have placed him
by the side of a Solon and a Lycurgus. Soon after
his removal from Boston to Philadelphia, in con
cert with other young men, he established a small
club, in which various subjects were discussed.
This society has been the source of the most use
ful establishments in Philadelphia, for promoting
the cause of science, the mechanic arts, and the im
provement of the human understanding.
On the 17th of September, 1856, a new statue
of Franklin, by Greenough, was inagurated amid
an immense concourse of spectators. Business was suspended, and
all along the line of the vast procession, and in many parts of the
city, were numerous
decorations, flags, etc.
The birth place of
Franklin, in Milk-
street, was most ele
gantly decorated. Be
neath a star were the
words :
"He took the lightning from Heaven," under which was a painting subscribed:
"The House in which Franklin was born. Benjamin Franklin was born on this
spot on Sunday, the 17th of January, A. D. 1706." In Federal street were flags
with the following inscriptions :V< Born Jan. 17, 1706. Tallow Chandler's appren
tice, 1717. Printer's apprentice, 1719. Author, 1725. Dry Good's clerk, 1727.
Printer, 1729. Legislator for Pennsylvania, 1732. Founder of the University of
Pennsylvania. Deputy Postmaster General, 1751. The inventor of Lightning
Rods was the originator of the Volunteer Militia. Fellow of the Royal Society.
Doctor of Laws by Oxford. Colonel of Militia. Representative of America in
England, 1764. Concluded first treaty for America, 1778. Member of Continen
tal Congress, 1775. Commissioner Plenipotentiary to France, 1776. Minister
Plenipotentiary to France, 1778. Commissioner to treat with England, 1782.
President of Pennsylvania, 1775. Delegate to Federal Convention, 1787. Died,
April 17, 1790."^ Washington street and Dover street had many fine decorations
and appropriate inscriptions, and everywhere apt quotations from " Poor Rich
ard " met the eye. The procession was a fine one.
FEANKLIN'S STATUE.
058 MASSACHUSETTS.
No American abroad, probably, was ever held in so much love and
reverence, as Dr. Franklin, while ambassador at the court of France,
in the period of our revolution. Watson, in his Memoirs, has given
some interesting reminiscences to this point. While at Paris, at this
time, he was invited to dine at Passy with Franklin. He says :
"We entered a spacious room, a folding door opened at our approach, and pre
sented to my view a brilliant assembly, who all greeted the wise old man in the
most cordial and appropriate manner. He introduced me as a young American
just arrived. One of the young ladies approached him with the familiarity of a
daughter, tapped him kindly on the cheek, and called him Papa Franklin."
On visiting the paintings in the Louvre, Watson was greatly pleased to find the
portrait of Franklin honored, and by the royal orders in being hung near those of
the king and queen. His popularity and influence at court were almost unprece
dented, and he was so much venerated by the people, that Watson often saw them
following his carriage just as the}7 had the king's. " His venerable figure, the ease
of his manners, formed in an intercourse of 50 years with the world", his benevo
lent countenance, and his fame as a philosopher, all tended to excite love and to
command influence and respect." He was an especial favorite of the queen, and
through the strong political influence she held, adroitly directed by him, the gov
ernment was led to acknowledge our independence, and to aid us in the struggle
with fleets and armies.
The last interview Watson had with Franklin, occurred in 1786, at which time
he was more than 80 years of age. " On my first entering the room," gays Wat
son, " Franklin observed that all his old friends were dead, and he found himself
alone in the midst of a new generation, and added the remark alike characteristic
of the man and the philosopher, ' he was in their way, and it was time he was off
the stage.' Yet he delighted a circle of young people — for he was a most instruc
tive companion of youth in his old age — the whole evening with pleasant anec
dotes and interesting stories. His voice was very sonorous and clear, at the same
time hollow and peculiar."
The British ministry, when persisting in their right to tax the
Americans, in 1773, gave permission to the East India Company to
ship a large quantity of tea to America charged with the duty. The
Americans opposed the landing of the tea, and in some instances
compelled the vessels to return to England without landing. One or
two ships having arrived in Boston with tea on board, the people as
sembled at the " Old South" Church on Tuesday, Dec. 14th, and de
manded the return of the ships, and they adjourned to Thursday.
"On Thursday, there was the fullest meeting ever known, 2,000 men, at least,
were present from the country. Samuel Philips Savage, Esq., of Weston, was ap
pointed moderator. Mr. Kotch reported that the collector would not give him a
clearance. He was then ordered, upon his peril, to get his ship ready for sea this
day, enter a protest immediately against the custom house, and proceed direcily to
the governor (then at Milton, seven miles distant), and demand a pass for his ship
to go by the castle. An adjournment to 3 p. M. then took place. At three, having
met, they waited very patiently until five o'clock, when, finding that Mr. Rotch
did not return, they began to be very uneasy, called for a dissolution of the meet
ing, and finally obtained a vote for it. But the more judicious, fearing what
would be the consequences, begged for a reconsideration of that vote, 'for this
reason, that they ought to do everything in their power to send the tea back, ac
cording to their resolves.1 This touched the pride of the assembly, and they
agreed to remain together one hour.
"This interval was improved by Josiah Quincy, Jr., to apprise his fellow-citizens
of the importance of the crisis, and direct their attention to the probable results
of this controversy. He succeeded in holding them in attentive silence until Mr.
Ketch's return, at three quarters past five o'clock. The answer which he brought
MASSACHUSETTS.
259
from the governor was, ' that, for the honor of the laws, and from duty toward the
king, he could not grant the permit, until the vessel was regularly cleared.' A
violent commotion immediately ensued. A person who was in the gallery, dis
guised after the manner of the Indians, shouted, at this juncture, the cry of war;
it was answered by about 30 persons, disguised in like manner, at the door. The
meeting was dissolved in the twinkling of an eye. The multitude rushed to Grif
fin's wharf. The disguised Indians went on board the ships laden with the tea. In
less than two hours, 240 chests, and 100 half chests, were staved and emptied into
the dock. The affair was conducted without any tumult; no damage was done to
the vessels or to any other effects whatever.
Northern View in Salem.
The view is taken in Washington-st., looking south. The Eastern Railroad depot is seen in the central
part, a few rods to the north of which the railroad passes underneath Washington-st. The building on
the left is occupied by several banks, the postoffice, etc.
Salem is built on a peninsula, formed by two inlets of the sea,
called North and South Rivers — its situation is rather low, but pleas
ant and healthy. The compact part of the town is over a mile and a
half in length, and three fourths of a mile in breadth. The city is
well built, and many of the houses are large and elegant, particularly
some of those in the vicinity of the common — a beautiful public ground
in the east part of the city — containing about eight acres. It has
about 20 churches ; the principal public buildings beside these, are
the city hall, court house, the custom house, and market. The Salem
Atheneum was incorporated in 1810. By the liberal bequest of $30,-
000, by Miss Plummer, a new structure is being built. Its library
contains about 11,000 volumes. Salem is 14 miles north-easterly
from Boston. Population about 23,000.
Salem, having a convenient harbor and good anchorage, has always
been a commercial place. There is scarcely any part of the world
which her ships have not visited, and Salem has been more known for
its East India trade, than any other seaport in the United States.
17
260 MASSACHUSETTS.
The first ship engaged in this trade, was the Grand Turk, owned by
C. H. Derby. She was at Canton in 1786, commanded by Captain
West. A model of her, completely rigged, is preserved in the valua
ble and interesting museum of the "East India Marine Society " of
this place.
The number of vessels engaged in foreign commerce, from Salem,
is over 100. Many owned here take their cargoes to Boston or New
York. In proportion to its size, Salem is one of the wealthiest places
in the United States. Although it is without any important water
power, and has ever been mainly devoted to maritime pursuits, yet its
manufacturing business has been considerable. Salem was incorpor
ated a city in the year 1836. An aqueduct supplies the place with
fine soft water.
The history of Salem is identified with that of Massachusetts. Its Indian name
was Naumkeag. It was first settled in 1626, by Roger Conant, and others, who
had failed in an attempt to plant themselves at Cape Ann. In 1628, a patent was
made to Sir Henry Roswell and others, with a view to establish a colony there.
Out of this grew a company, of which Matthew Cradock was president; and in
1638 John Endicott was sent over to reside at Salem, as the company's agent. The
next year the first church was formed, with Rev. Francis Higginson as its pastor,
which was the first completely organized Protestant Church formed in North
America.
During the spring and summer of 1692, occurred one of the most surprising and
afflicting scenes ever witnessed in New England, from the supposed prevalence of
witchcraft. This excitement commenced in Salem village, now Danvers, in the
family of the Rev. Mr. Parris, the minister of that place. The town suffered
greatly by the excitement; a fourth part of the inhabitants left the place: 20 per
sons were executed for witchcraft; one of them, Giles Cory, refusing to put him
self on trial, was pressed to death. About 100 were accused, of whom 50 confessed
themselves guilty, and about this number of other persons were afflicted. Those
who confessed themselves guilty of this crime, appear to have done it in order to
save their lives, as they afterward declared themselves innocent. Most of those
who were executed exhibited a forcible example of the strength of moral princi
ple ; rather than confess what they knew to be untrue, they nobly suffered death.
Those who suffered were executed on a hill in the westerly part of the town, since
known as Gallows Hill.
A belief in witchcraft was, at this time, universal, and punishments for witch
craft had been sanctioned by the Catholic Church, for more than a century pre
viously. Henry VIII, made the practice of witchcraft a capital offense, and Sir
Matthew Hale, confessedly one of the most learned and upright judges of his age,
often tried and condemned persons accused of witchcraft. Professional "witch
hunters" were then common in England. In the 16th century, more than 100,000
persons, accused of witchcraft, perished in the flames in Germany alone.
Salem was distinguished for its patriotism, and especially for its naval achieve
ments, in the cause of American independence. During the revolution there were
about 60 armed vessels fitted out from Salem, manned by 4,000 men ; and many
were the daring and chivalrous exploits performed on the sea by her citizens dur
ing that eventful period.
Among the distinguished men, in almost every learned profession, which Salem
claims as among its sons, the name of Nathaniel Bowditch, author of the Practi
cal Navigator, is identified with its fame and nautical achievements. The Practi
cal Navigator has been translated into every European language, and its use is co
extensive with maritime adventures.
Danvers, which was formerly a part of Salem, is about three miles
north-west of Salem, and comprises, within its limits, several villages.
MASSACHUSETTS. 261
Many of the historical events of Salem have a direct reference to
Danvers. It was by a mere chance that the first blood shed in the
revolution did not take place here instead of at Lexington, as will be
seen in. the annexed account of the expedition of Col. Leslie, from
Holmes' Annals:
"On the 26th of February, 1775, Gen. Gage, having received intelligence that
some military stores were deposited in Salem, dispatched Lieut. Col. Leslie from
Castle William, with 140 soldiers in a transport to seize them. Having landed at
Marblehead, they proceeded to Salem ; but not finding the stores there, they parsed
on to the draw bridge leading to Danvers, where a large number of people had as
sembled, and on the opposite side of which Col. Pickering had mustered 30 or 40
men, and drawn up the bridge. Leslie ordered them to let it down; but they per
emptorily refused, declaring it to be a private road, by which he had no authority
to demand a pass. On this refusal he determined to ferry over a few men in a
gondola, which lay on the bank, as soon as it could be put afloat; but the people,
perceiving the intention, instantly sprang into the gondola, and scuttled it with
their axes. There was danger of instant hostility; but the prudent interposition
of Mr. Barnard, minister of Salem, and other persons, prevented that extremity.
To moderate the ardor of the soldiery, the folly of opposing such numbers was
stated; and to moderate the ardor of the citizens, it was insisted, that, at so late
an hour, the meditated object of the British troops was impracticable. The bridge
was at length let down; Leslie passed it, and marched about 30 rods; and, the
evening being now advanced, he returned, and embarked for Boston."
Some particulars of this account are taken from the MSS. of President Stiles ;
where he farther writes, that the British soldiers pricked the people with their
bayonets; that Leslie kept his troops at the bridge an hour and a half; that he at
length pledged his honor, that, if they would let down the bridge, he would march
but 13 rods over it, and return without doing anything farther; that the line was
marked ; and that Col. Pickering, with his 40 brave men, like Leonidas at Ther
mopylae, faced the king's troops."
Newburyport was formerly the port of the town of Newbury. It
was incorporated as a distinct town in 1764, and chartered as a city
in 1851. It is most beautifully situated on the south bank of the Mer-
rimac, near its union with the ocean, having a city-like appearance for
more than two miles along the bank. The most populous part of the
city stands upon a slope declining to the river, so that a summer rain
completely washes the streets. The city has a large number of
churches, and its other public buildings are numerous and elegant.
It is situated 34 miles N. E. from Boston, and 20 N. from Salem.
Population, about 12,000. The facilities for a free and superior edu
cation in this place are unsurpassed by any other in this country.
The Eastern Railroad passes through a tunnel under High street.
The Merrimac suspension bridge, a beautiful structure, crosses the
Merrimac from the north part of the city.
Newburyport was early noted for its commerce and ship building.
Located at the mouth of a river famous for its excellent timber, it was
at an early day the principal seat of ship building. Ninety vessels
have been known to have been in progress of construction at one time.
No place in New England has experienced greater commercial vicissi
tudes. Its capital had become largely invested in the fisheries and
freighting business, and the suspension of its commerce and ship
building, in consequence of the embargo of 1808, and the commercial
262
MASSACHUSETTS.
restrictions of that period, was long and severely felt. In 1811, be
fore it had recovered from these losses, it was visited with an exten
sive conflagration. Its central and most compact and valuable por
tion, covering an area of 16 acres, was laid in ashes. In addition to
these disasters, the war of 1812 greatly checked its progress. But
of late years it has been rapidly recovering its former prosperity. In
1836, the manufacture of cotton goods, by steam power, was intro
duced here ; and this manufacture is an important branch of busi
ness.
The celebrated preacher, Rev. George Whitfield, died in New-
buryport, at a house standing in School street. The first Presbyte
rian Church in which he preached
stands near the house in which he died.
It was his desire, that if he should die
in this country, his remains should be
buried under Mr. Parson's pulpit, in
which he preached. His wish was fol
lowed : and his remains, with those of
Parson's and another minister, one on
each side, are still to be seen. An ele
gant monument of Egyptian and Italian
marble, stands within the church at one
corner; the gift of an eminent mer
chant of this place ; it has the following
inscription :
THIS CENOTAPH is erected, with affectionate
veneration, to the memory of the Rev. GEOKGE
WHITFIELD, born at Gloucester, England, Dec.
16, 1714. Educated at Oxford University; or
dained 1736. In a ministry of 34 years, he
crossed the Atlantic 13 times, and preached more than 18,000 sermons. As a sol
dier of the cross, humble, devout, ardent: he put on the whole armor of God; pre
ferring the honor of Christ to his own interest, repose, reputation, and life. As a
Christian orator, his deep piety, disinterested zeal, and vivid imagination, gave un
exampled energy to his look, utterance, and action. Bold, fervent, pungent, and
popular in his eloquence, no other uninspired man ever preached to so large assem
blies, or enforced the simple truths of the gospel, by motives so persuasive and
awful, and with an influence so powerful on the hearts of his hearers. He died of
asthma, September 30, 1770, suddenly exchanging his life of unparalleled labors
for his eternal rest.
Marblehead, four miles from Salem, and 16 from Boston, is an ex
ceedingly rocky and irregularly built place, containing upward of
6,000 inhabitants. It has a good harbor, protected, at the entrance,
by Fort Sewall. From its first settlement to the present time, Mar-
blehead has been noted for its fisheries. At the commencement of
the revolutionary war it had become the second place in the colony.
Since the calamity of the loss of life and property, by the storm of
September 19, 1846, the fishing business has somewhat depreciated.
Many of the inhabitants have recently turned their attention to the
manufacture of shoes and boots. A steam cotton factory was erected
WHITFIELD'S MONUMENT.
MASSACHUSETTS. 263
here in 1845. In the revolution, this town furnished an entire regi
ment of its own inhabitants, completely officered and manned.
Lynn, one of the most flourishing towns in New England, is nine
miles N. N. E. of Boston, and five S. from Salem. Population about
15,000. It has 16 churches, and a large number of literary, social,
and charitable societies. Lynn was incorporated a city in 1849. It
received its name from that of Lynn Regis, a town in England ; its
Indian name was Saugus. It has risen to wealth and importance by
the enterprise and industry of its people, in the manufacture of shoes,
particularly for which, more than any other town in the country, it is
celebrated. The manufacture of ladies' shoes was commenced here
before the revolution.
From the southern side of the town a peninsula extends four miles
into the ocean, at the extremity of which is Nahant. On the north
east side is a beach of great length and smoothness, and so hard that
a horse's footsteps are scarcely visible. It is 10 miles from Boston
by water, and one of the oldest and most celebrated watering places
in New England, and to which many of the citizens of Boston, having
provided themselves with pleasant cottages, resort, with their families,
in the summer months. The ocean scenery here is exceedingly beau
tiful in fair weather, and truly sublime in a storm.
Andover is four miles S. from Lawrence, 16 N. W. from Salem, and
20 N. from Boston. It is one of the pleasantest towns in the state,
has several handsome churches, and a population of about 7,000.
The town is distinguished for its literary advantages. Here is
situated the widely known Andover Theological Seminary, the oldest
and most important in New England, having been established in 1807,
since which more than 1,000 young men have been prepared for the min
istry. Phillip's Academy, and the Abbott Female Academy, are also
in this town. These institutions are in a flourishing state, with more
than 500 students. In 1855, the Punchard Free School was erected
and named from B. F. Punchard, who bequeathed $60,000 for the
purpose of furnishing superior educational privileges to the youth
and children of the place, free of charge. A large printing establish
ment is situated nearly opposite the Theological Institution where
many standard works have been published. The Bibliotheca Sacra,
a quarterly of merit, is published at this office. Andover is a favor
ite residence for persons of wealth, whose business in Boston and
Lawrence, requires their supervision, and who wish its educational
advantages for their children.
Lawrence, 26 miles from Boston, is situated on both sides of the
Merrimac River. It was projected by the Essex Company, in 1844,
and incorporated a town in 1847, and city in 1853. It contains 12
churches and about 18,000 inhabitants. The Essex Company, by the
construction of a dam, have given an effective head and fall of 28
feet, for the whole Merrimac River, creating a water power equal to
that of Lowell about 10 miles above on the same river. It has sev
eral large mills for the manufacture of cotton, woolens, machinery, etc.
264
MASSACHUSETTS.
The town received its name in honor of the Lawrence family, the
well known merchants of Boston, to whose intelligence and enterprise
the progress of Massachusetts, in manufactures, has been greatly in
debted. A common of 18 acres, in the center of the place, has been
South-western View of Lawrence.
The view shows most of the principal mills in Lawrence, as seen from the Boston and Maine Railroad,
near the bridge over the Merrimac. The Pacific Co. Mills are those on the left ; the next to the right
the Atlantic. Those of the Bay State are seen on the right, near which are the Dnck Mills. The board
ing houses of the companies, which are fine structures of brick, are situated immediately back of the range
of mills.
presented to it by the Essex Company. A donation of four acres of
land, in the center of the town, was made by Hon. Daniel A. White,
the proceeds to be applied to the maintenance of a course of public
lectures, and also of a public library for the use of the citizens.
One of the most heart-rending events which ever occurred in our
country, happened in this town at 5 P. M., Jan. 10, 1860 — the fall of
the Pemberton Mill : 960 operatives were employed ; most of whom
were young females — of these nearly one third were either killed or
wounded. The number, either crushed to death, mortally wounded,
or consumed by fire, which shortly after broke out while they lay in
extricably fastened among the ruins, amounted to about 200. The cause
of this terrible calamity was the giving away of the iron pillars which
supported the floors, combined with the general want of strength in
the building to hold the immense weight of machinery contained with
in it.
Lowell is situated on the Merrimac, at the point where it receives
the Concord River, 26 miles N. W. from Boston. The rapid growth
of this city, the variety and richness of its manufactures, and the pe
culiar character of its population, have rendered it an object of in
terest and inquiry throughout the world. In these respects it stands
unrivaled in this country, and is well entitled to the appellation of
the "Manchester of America." The population in 1830, was 6,477;
in 1840, 20,796; in 1850, 33,385; and in 1860, 36,848.
MASSACHUSETTS.
265
The first effort to promote manufactures in this place, was in 1813.
In consequence of the war with Great Britain, and the restrictions
on commerce, the attention of many enterprising men was directed
to domestic manufactures. Capt. Phineas Whiting, and Capt. Josiah
East View of Lowell.
The annexed engraving shows the central part of Lowell, as it appears from the high grounds on the
eastern bank of the Merrimac, over which is seen the central bridge. The month of Concord River is on
the left. The Middlesex Woolen Factory appears on the extreme left ; the Prescott Mills next northward.
The Massachusetts Mills extend from this point to the bridge. The next westward are the Boott and the
Merrimac Mills. The Lawrence Mills are still farther westward, but not embraced in the view.
Fletcher, having selected an eligible site on Concord River, at the
Wamesit Falls, erected a large wooden building for a cotton factory,
at an expense of about $3,000. About the year 1820, Messrs. Pat
rick T. Jackson, Nathan Appleton, and Kirk Boott, of Boston, formed
a company for the purpose of manufacturing cotton goods, particu
larly calicoes. The lands about the hills in the Merrimac were pur
chased, and the company soon went into successful operation.
The whole number of mills belonging to the 12 companies, includ
ing the shops, smithy and foundry of the machine shops, is upward
of 50. The number of males employed, between 4 and 5,000; the
number of females about 9,000. The water power used, between
9,000 and 10,000 horse power. The manufacture of lumber, which is
floated down the river, is a very important business in Lowell. There
are more than 20 churches, and liberal provision is made for public
schools. The Mechanics' Hall was erected by an association of .me
chanics as early as 1825, and furnished with a library, philosophical
apparatus, etc. Perhaps nothing has done more to encourage indus
try, frugality, and thrift among the operatives, than the establish
ment of savings banks, of which there are three in the city. The
operatives in the mills are the principal depositors in these institu-
•266 MASSACHUSETTS.
tions. " The population, although largely composed of young per
sons removed from the counsels and restraints of the paternal roof, is
superior to that of most cities for general intelligence and correct de
portment."
" The city of Lowell is now a part of the land granted for a town, called Wame-
.•*/<, by the general court to the rawtucket Indians, once the most powerful tribe
in all of this region. The historian Gookin states that "the tribe was almost
wholly destroyed by the sickness in 1612 and '13; and at this day (1674) there
are not above two hundred and fifty men, beside women and children. What
that disease was, that so generally and mortally swept away these and other Indians
in New England, I can not learn. Doubtless it was some pestilential disease. I
have discoursed with some Indians, that were then youths, who say 'that their bod
ies were exceeding yellow before, and after they died,' describing it by a yellow
garment they showed me."
HaverJiill is an ancient and flourishing manufacturing town on the
N. side of Merrima<; River, at the head of navigation, 12 miles W.
from Newburyport, and 30 N. from Boston. Population about 6,000.
The location of the village, on the south side of a gentle declivity
which rises from the river, is uncommonly beautiful. It was a fron
tier town nearly seventy years, and suffered much from the incursions
of the Indians. In 1697, nine houses were burnt, and 27 persons
killed. A number were captured, among whom was Mrs. Hannah
Dustin, who became distinguished for the manner in which she killed
ten Indians, and then escaped. In August, 1708, a party of French
and Indians fell upon Haverhill, killed and captured about forty of
the inhabitants. Mr. Rolfe the minister was killed. Below are the
details of the first event :
"On the 15th of March, 1697, a body of Indians made a descent on the westerly part of
the town, and approached the house of Mr. Thomas Dustin. They came, as they were
wont, arrayed with all the terrors of a savage war dress, with their muskets charged for
the contest, their tomahawks drawn for the slaughter, and their scalping knives unsheathed
and glittering in the sunbeams. Mr. Dustin at this time was engaged abroad in his daily
labor. When the terrific shouts of the bloodhounds first fell on his ear, he seized his gun,
mounted his horse, and hastened to his house, with the hope of escorting to a place of
safety his family, which consisted of his wife, whom he tenderly and passionately loved,
and who had been confined only seven days in childbed, her nurse, Mrs. Mary Neff, and
eight young children. Immediately upon his arrival, he rushed into his house, and found
it a scene of confusion — the women trembling for their safety, and the children weeping
and calling on their mother for protection. He instantly ordered seven of his children to
fly in an opposite direction from that in which the danger was approaching, and went him
self to assist his wife. But he was too late — before she could arise from her bed, the
enemy were upon them.
Mr. Dustin, seeing there was no hope of saving his wife from the clutches of the foe,
flew from the house, mounted his horse, and rode full speed after his flying children. The
agonized father supposed it impossible to save them all, and he determined to snatch from
death the child which shared the most of his affections. He soon came up with the infant
brood ; he heard their glad voices and saw the cheerful looks that overspread their coun
tenances, for they felt themselves safe while under his protection. He looked for the child
of his love — where was it ? He scanned the little group from the oldest to the youngest,
but he could not find it. They all fondly loved him — they called him by the endearing
title of father, were flesh of his flesh, and stretched out their little arms toward him for
protection. He gazed upon them, and faltered in his resolution, for there was none whom
lie could leave behind ; and, indeed, what parent could, in such a situation select the child
which shared the most of his affections ? He could not do it, and therefore resolved to de-
iend them from the murderers, or die at their side.
A small party of the Indians pursued Mr. Dustin as he fled from the house, and soon
overtook him and his flying children. They did not, however, approach very near, for
they saw his determination, and feared the vengeance of a father, but skulked" behind the
MASSACHUSETTS. 267
trees and fences, and fired upon him and his little company. Mr. Dustin dismounted from
his horse, placed himself in the rear of his children, and returned the fire of the enemy often
and with good success. In this manner he retreated for more than a mile, alternately en
couraging his terrified charge, and loading and firing his gun, until he lodged them safely
in a forsaken house. The Indian, finding that they could not conquer him, returned to
their companions, expecting, no doubt, that they should there find victims, on which they
might exercise their savage cruelty.
The party which entered the house when Mr. Dustin left it, found Mrs. Dustin in bed,
and the nurse attempting to fly with the infant in her arms. They ordered Mrs. Dustin to
rise instantly, while one of them took the infant from the arms of the nurse, carried ijt out,
and dashed out its brains against an apple-tree. After plundering the house they set it on
tire, and commenced their retreat, though Mrs. Dustin had but partly dressed herself, and
was without a shoe on one of her feet. Mercy was a stranger to the breasts of the con
querors, and the unhappy women expected to receive no kindness from their hands. The
weather at the time was exceedingly cold, the March wind blew keen and piercing, and the
earth was alternately covered with snow and deep mud.
They traveled twelve miles the first day, and continued their retreat, day by day, follow
ing a circuitous route, until they reached the home of the Indian who claimed them as his
property, which was on a small island, now called Dustin's Island, at the mouth of the
Contoocook River, about six miles above the state house in Concord, New Hampshire.
Notwithstanding their intense suffering for the death of the child, their anxiety for those
whom they had left behind, and who they expected had been cruelly butchered, their suffer
ings from cold and hunger, and from sleeping on the damp earth, with nothing but an in
clement sky for a covering, and their terror for themselves, lest the arm that, as they had
supposed, had slaughtered those whom they dearly loved, would soon be made red with
their blood; notwithstanding all this, they performed the journey without yielding, and ar
rived at their destination in comparative health.
The family of their Indian master consisted of two men, three women, and seven chil
dren ; beside an English boy, named Samuel Lennardson, who was taken prisoner about a
year previous, at Worcester. Their master, some years before, had lived in the family of
Rev. Mr. Rowlandsou, of Lancaster, and he told Mrs. Dustin that "when he prayed the
English way he thougM it was good, but now he found the French way better."
These unfortunate women had been but a few days with the Indians, when they were in
formed that they must soon start for a distant Indian settlement, and that, upon their ar
rival, they would be obliged to conform to the regulations always required of prisoners,
whenever they entered the village, which was, to be stripped, scourged, and run the gaunt
let in a state of nudity. The gauntlet consisted of two files of Indians, of both sexes and
of all ages, containing all that could be mustered in the village ; and the unhappy prisoners
were obliged to run between them, when they were scoffed at and beaten by each one as
they passed, and were sometimes marks at which the young Indians threw their hatchets.
This cruel custom was often practiced by many of the tribes, and not unfrequently the poor
prisoner sunk beneath it. Soon as the two women were informed of this, they determined
to escape as speedily as possible. They could not bear to be exposed to the scoffs and un
restrained gaze of their savage conquerors— death would be preferable. Mrs. Dustin soon
planned a mode of escape, appointed the 31st inst. for its accomplishment, and prevailed
upon her nurse and the boy to join her. The Indians kept no watch, for the boy had lived
with them so long they considered him as one of their children, and they did "not expect
that the women, unadvised and unaided, would attempt to escape, when success, at the
best, appeared so desperate.
On the day previous to the 31st, Mrs. Dustin wished to learn on what part of the body
the Indians struck their victims when they would dispatch them suddenly, and how they
took off a scalp. With this view she instructed the boy to make inquiries of one of the
men. Accordingly, at a convenient opportunity, he asked one of them where he would
strike a man if he would kill him instantly, and how to take off a scalp. The man laid
his finger on his temple — 'Strike 'em there,' said he; and then instructed him how to
scalp. The boy then communicated his information to Mrs. Dustin.
The night at length arrived, and the whole family retired to rest, little suspecting that
the most of them would never behold another sun. Long before the break of day, Mrs.
Dustin arose, and, having ascertained that they were all in a deep sleep, awoke her nurse
and the boy, when they armed themselves with tomahawks, and dispatched ten of the
twelve. A favorite boy they designedly left ; and one of the squaws, whom they left for
dead, jumped up, and ran with him to the woods. Mrs. Dustin killed her master, and
Samuel Lennardson dispatched the very Indian who told him where to strike, and how to
take off a scalp. The deed was accomplished before the day began to break, and after
securing what little provision the wigwam of their dead master afforded, they scuttled all
the boats but one, to prevent pursuit, and with that started for their homes. Mrs. Dustin
268
MASSACHUSETTS.
took with her a gun that belonged to her master, and the tomahawk with which she com
mitted the tragical deed. They had not proceeded far, however, when Mrs. Dustin per
ceived that they had neglected to take their scalps, and feared that her neighbors, if they
ever arrived at their homes, would not credit their story, and would ask them for some
token or proof. She told her fears to her companions, and they immediately returned to
the silent wigwam, took off the scalps of the fallen, and put them into a bag. Thev then
started on their journey anew, with the gun, tomahawk, and the bleeding trophies, palpa
ble witnesses of their heroic and unparalleled deed.
A long and weary journey was before them, but they commenced it with cheerful hearts,
each alternately rowing and steering their little bark. Though they had escaped from the
clutches of their unfeeling master, still they were surrounded with dangers. They were
thinly clad, the sky was still inclement, and they were liable to be re-captured by strolling
oands of Indians, or by those who would undoubtedly pursue them as soon as the squaw and
boy had reported their departure, and the terrible vengeance they had taken ; and were
they again made prisoners, they well knew that a speedy death would follow. This array
of danger, however, did not appall them, for home was their beacon-light, and the thoughts
of their firesides nerved their hearts. They continued to drop silently down the river,
keeping a good lookout for strolling Indians ; and in the night two of them only slept,
while the third managed the boat. In this manner they pursued their journey, until they
arrived safely, with their trophies, at their home, totally unexpected by their mourning
friends, who supposed that they had been butchered by their ruthless conquerors. It must
truly have been an affecting meeting for Mrs. Dustin, who likewise supposed that all she
loved — all she held dear on earth — was laid in the silent tomb.
After recovering from the fatigue of the journey, they started for Boston, where they ar
rived on the 21st of April. They carried with them the gun and tomahawk, and their ten
scalps — those witnesses that would not lie; and while there, the general court gave them
fifty pounds as a reward for their heroism. The report of their daring deed soon spread
into every part of the country, and when Col. Nicholson, governor of Maryland, heard of
it, he sent them a very valuable present, and many presents were also made to them by
their neighbors."
The annexed lines, descriptive of Mr. Dustin's memorable retreat in
the face of his savage foes, were written by Mrs. Sarah J. Hale, the
well known authoress. They contain much of the " soul of poetry : "
THE FATHER'S CHOICE.
Now fly, as flies the rushing wind —
Urge, urge thy lagging steed 1
The savage yell is fierce behind,
And life is on thy speed.
And from those dear ones make thy choice ;
The group he wildly eyed,
When t( father 1 " burst from every voice,
And "child!" Ms heart replied.
There's one that now can share his toil,
And one he meant for fame,
And one that wears her mother's smile,
And one that bears her name ;
And one will prattle on his knee,
Or slumber on his breast ;
And one whose joys of infancy
Are still by smiles expressed.
They feel no fear while he is nearj
He'll shield them from the foe;
But oh ! his ear must thrill to hear
Their shriekings should he go.
In vain his
No words
There's burning tears upon his cheek —
Death's marble on his brow.
quivering lips would speak ;
s his thoughts allow ;
And twice he smote his clenched hand —
Then bade his children fly !
And turned, and e'en that savage band
Cowered at his wrathful eye.
Swift as the lightning, winged with death,
Flashed forth the quivering flame 1
Their fiercest warrior bows beneath
The father's deadly aim I
Not the wild cries, that rend the skies,
His heart of purpose move ;
He saves his children, or he dies
The sacrifice of love.
Ambition goads the conqueror on,
Hate points the murderer's brand—
But love and duty, these alone
Can nerve the good man's hand.
The hero may resign the field,
The coward inurd'rer flee ;
He can not fear, he will not yield,
That strikes, sweet love, for thee.
They come, they come — he heeds no cry,
Save the soft child-like wail,
« 0, father, save 1 " " My children, fly 1 "
Were mingled on the gale.
MASSACHUSETTS.
269
Ami firmer still he drew his breath,
And sterner flash'd his eye,
As fast he hurls the leaden death,
Still shouting " Children, fly 1 "
No shadow on his brow appeared,
Nor tremor shook his frame,
Save when at intervals he heard
Some trembler lisp his name.
In vain the foe, those fiends unchained,
Like famished tigers chafe,
The sheltering roof is near'd, is gain'd,
All, all the dear ones safe 1
CHARLESTOWN is one mile north of Boston, on a peninsula between
Mystic and Charles Rivers, and is connected by bridges with Boston
and other places. It contains a State Prison, the McLean Insane
Asylum, a United States Navy Yard, a Marine Hospital, several man-
South view of Bunker Hill Monument, etc., Charlestown.
The view shows the appearance of Bunker Hill Monument and part of Charlestown , with Charles Eirer
in front, as seen from the ancient burying ground on Copp's Hill, in Boston. On this elevation a British
battery was opened against the Americans at the time of the battle.
ufacturing establishments, 12 churches, and about 25,000 inhabitants.
The Navy Yard, on the north side of Charles River, embraces 60
acres of ground, inclosed by a wall, within which are erected the ware
houses, arsenal, magazine, dwellings for the officers, etc., all of brick,
and four large ship houses, under which the largest vessels of war are
constructed. The dry dock here is a stupendous work of hammered
granite, which cost the government §675,000 ; it is 341 feet long, 80
wide, and 30 feet deep. The state prison buildings are in the form
of a cross, having four wings united to a central building. The inte
rior arrangements and discipline are upon the " Auburn plan/' The
McLean Insane Asylum is on a beautiful eminence, now within the lim
its of Somerville.
270 MASSACHUSETTS.
BUNKER HILL, or more properly, Breed's Hill, is on the north bor
der of Charlestown. The Bunker Hill Monument is erected on Mon
ument Square, on the site of the redoubt. It is annually visited by
thousands from various parts of the world. A monument was erected
here in 1794, on the spot where Warren fell.
"In 1825, this monument, with the land, was given to the Bunker Hill Monu
ment Association, which erected a monument of hewn granite, in obelisk form,
30 feet square at the base, and 15 feet at the top. The foundation is 12 feet below
the top of the ground, and is 50 feet square. There are 90 courses in the shaft,
six below the surface of the earth, and 84 above it. The cap-stone is a single
stone, four feet square at the base, and three feet six inches in hight, and weighs
two and a half tuns. The obelisk contains four faces of dressed stone. The cor
ner stone was laid June 17, 1825, by LaFayette, when an address was delivered by
Hon. Daniel Webster, and the cap-stone was put on, July 23, 1842. On the anni
versary of June 17, 1843, the completion of the monument was celebrated, Hon.
Daniel Webster delivering an address. An immense concourse assembled, among
whom were the president of the United States, and the heads of departments.
The cost of the monument was $120,000 ; of the decoration of the grounds and
other expenses, $36,000.
The monument is ascended within, by a circular flight of 294 steps, to the cham
ber immediately beneath the apex, from the windows of which a view is had al
most equal to that from the state house in Boston. In this chamber are seen two
brass cannons, named Hancock and Adams, which were used in the battle; on
each of which is the following inscription :
( Sacred to Liberty. — This is one of the four cannons, which constituted the whole train of
field artillery possessed by the British Colonies of North America, at the commencement of
the war, on the 19th of April, 1775. This cannon and its fellow, belonging to a number of
the citizens of Boston, were used in many engagements during the war. The other two,
the property of the government of Massachusetts, were taken by the enemy. By order of
the United States, in Congress assembled, May 19, 1788.'
The monument stands in the center of a square on Bunker Hill, containing
nearly six acres, and inclosed by a massive stone fence. The natural surface of
the ground is in part preserved, upon which some lineaments of the old breastwork
are still discernible ; a soil which will be ever dear to the bosom of the patriot,
and to the friends of liberty throughout the world.
On the 17th of June, 1775, the ever-memorable battle of Bunker
Hill was fought in this town, and will render the Hights of Charles-
town an object of interest to generations yet unborn. The following,
stated to be a "full and correct account " of this battle, is taken from
a pamphlet published in Boston, June 17, 1825 :
** After the affair at Lexington and Concord, on the 19th of April, 1775, the people, ani
mated by one common impulse, flew to arms in every direction. The husbandman changed
his plowshare for a musket ; and about 15,000 men — 10,000 from Massachusetts, and the
remainder from New Hampshire, Rhode Island and Connecticut — assembled under Gen.
Ward, in the environs of Boston, then occupied by 10,000 highly disciplined and well
equipped British troops, under the command of Gens. Gage, Howe, Clinton, Burgoyne,
Pigot and others.
Fearing an intention on the part of the British to occupy the important hights at Charles-
town and Dorchester, which would enable them to command the surrounding country, Col.
Prescott was detached, by his own desire, from the American cainp at Cambridge, on the
evening of the 16th of June, 1775, with about 1,000 militia, mostly of Massachusetts, in
cluding 120 men of Putnam's regiment from Connecticut, and one artillery company, to
Bunker Hill, with a view to occupy and fortify that post. At this hill the detachment
made a short halt, but concluded to advance still nearer the British, and accordingly took
possession of Breed's Hill, a position which commanded the whole inner harbor of Boston.
Here, about midnight, they commenced throwing up a redoubt, which they completed, not
withstanding every possible effort from the British ships and batteries to prevent them,
about noon the next day.
MASSACHUSETTS.
271
So silent had the operations been conducted through the night, that the British had not
the most distant notice of the design of the Americans, until day-break presented to their
view the half formed battery and daring stand made against them. A dreadful cannonade,
accompanied with shells, was immediately commenced from the British battery at Copp's
Hill, and the ships-of-war and floating batteries stationed in Charles River.
The break of day, on the 17th of June, 1775, presented a scene, which, for daring and
firmness, could never be surpassed — 1,000 unexperienced militia, in the attire of their va
rious avocations, without discipline, almost without artillery and bayonets, scantily sup
plied with ammunition, and wholly destitute of provisions, defying the power of the for
midable British fleet and army, determined to maintain the liberty of their soil, or moisten
that soil with their blood.
Without aid, however, from the main body of the army, it seemed impossible to main
tain their position — the men, having been without sleep, toiling through the night, and
destitute of the necessary food required by nature, had become nearly exhausted. Repre
sentations were repeatedly made, through the morning, to head- quarters, of the necessity
of reinforcements and supplies. Maj. Brooks, the late revered governor of Massachusetts,
who commanded a battalion of minute-men at Concord, set out for Cambridge about nine
o'clock, on foot, it being impossible to procure a horse, soliciting succor ; but as there were
two other points exposed to the British, Roxbury and Cambridge, then the head-quarters,
at which place all the little stores of the army were collected, and the loss of which would
be incalculable at that moment, great fears were entertained lest they should march over
the neck to Roxbury, and attack the camp there, or pass over the bay in boats, there be
ing at that time no artificial avenue to connect Boston with the adjacent country, attack
the head-quarters, and destroy the stores ; it was, therefore, deemed impossible to afford
any reinforcement to Charlestown Hights, until the movements of the British rendered
evidence of their intention certain.
The fire from the Glasgow frigate and two floating batteries in Charles River, were
wholly directed with a view to prevent any communication across the isthmus that con
nects Charlestown with the main land, which kept up a continued shower of missiles, and
rendered the communication truly dangerous to those who should attempt it. When the
intention of the British, to attack the Hights of Charlestown, became apparent, the re
mainder of Putnam's regiment, Col. Gardiner's regiment, both of which, as to numbers,
were very imperfect, and some New Hampshire militia, marched, notwithstanding the
heavy fire across the neck, for Charlestown Hights, where they arrived, much fatigued,
just after the British had moved to the first attack. The British commenced crossing the
troops from Boston about 12 o'clock, and landed at Morton's Point, south-east from Breed's
Hill. At two o'clock, from the best accounts that can be obtained, they landed between
3 and 4,000 men, under the immediate command of Gen. Howe, and formed, in apparently
invincible order, at the base of the hill.
The position of the Americans, at this time was a redoubt on the summit of the hight
of about eight rods square, and a breast-work extending on the left of it, about 70 feet
down the eastern declivity of the hill. This redoubt and breast-work was commanded by
272 MASSACHUSETTS.
Prescott in person, who had superintended its construction, and who occupied it with the
Massachusetts militia of his detachment, and a part of Little's regiment, which had ar
rived about one o'clock. They were dreadfully deficient in equipments and ammunition,
had been toiling incessantly for many hours, and it is said, by some accounts, even then
were destitute of provisions. A little to the eastward of the redoubt, and northerly to the
rear of it, was a rail fence, extending almost to Mystic River ; to this fence another had
been added during the night and forenoon, and some newly mown grass thrown against
them, to aiford something like a cover to the troops. At this fence the 120 Connecticut
militia were posted.
The movements of the British made it evident their intention was to march a strong
column along the margin of the Mystic, and turn the redoubt on the north, while another
column attacked it in front ; accordingly, to prevent this design, a large force became ne
cessary at the breastwork and rail fence. The whole of the reinforcements that arrived,
amounting in all to 800 or 1,000 men, were ordered by Gen. Putnam, who had been ex
tremely active throughout the night and morning, and who had accompanied the expedition
to this point.
At this moment, thousands of persons of both sexes had collected on the church steeples,
Beacon Hill, house tops, and every place in Boston and its neighborhood where a view of
the battle ground could be obtained, viewing, with painful anxiety, the movements of the
combatants, wondering yet admiring the bold stand of the Americans, and trembling at the
thought of the formidable army marshaled in array against them.
Before three o'clock, the British formed, in two columns for the attack. One column,
as had been anticipated, moved along the Mystic River, with the intention of taking the
redoubt in the rear, while the other advanced up the ascent directly in front of the redoubt,
where Prescott was ready to receive them. Gen. Warren, president of the provincial con
gress and of the committee of safety, who had been appointed but a few days before a ma
jor general of the Massachusetts troops, had volunteered on the occasion as a private sol
dier, and was in the redoubt with a musket, animating the men by his influence and exam
ple to the most daring determination.
Orders were given to the Americans to reserve their fire until the enemy advanced suffi
ciently near to make their aim certain. Several volleys were fired by the British, with but
little success ; and so long a time had elapsed, and the British allowed to advance so near
the Americans without their fire being returned, that a doubt arose whether or not the lat
ter intended to give battle — but the fatal moment soon arrived ; when the British had ad
vanced to within about eight rods, a sheet of fire was poured upon them, and continued a
short time, with such deadly effect that hundreds of the assailants lay weltering in their
blood, and the remainder retreated in dismay to the point where they had first landed.
From daylight to the time of the British advancing on the works, an incessant fire had
been kept up on the Americans from the ships and batteries — this fire was now renewed
with increased vigor.
After a short time the British officers had succeeded in rallying their men, and again ad
vanced, in the same order as before, to the attack. Thinking to divert the attention of the
Americans, the town of Charlestown, consisting of 500 wooden buildings, was now set on
fire by the British. The roar of the flames, the crashing of falling timber, the awful ap
pearance of desolation presented, the dreadful shrieks of the dying and wounded in the last
attack, added to the knowledge of the formidable force advancing against them, combined
to form a scene apparently too much for men bred in the quiet retirement of domestic life
to sustain ; but the stillness of death reigned within the American works, and nought
could be seen but the deadly presented weapon, ready to hurl fresh destruction, on the as
sailants. The fire of the Americans was again reserved until the British came still nearer
than before, when the same unerring aim was taken, and the British shrunk, terrified, from
before its fatal effects, flying, completely routed, a second time to the banks of the river,
and leaving, as before, the field strewed with their wounded and dead.
Again the ships and batteries renewed their fire, and kept a continual shower of balls on
the works. Notwithstanding every exertion, the British officers found it impossible to
rally the men for a third attack ; one third of their comrades had fallen ; and finally it was
not until a reinforcement of more than 1,000 fresh troops, with a strong park of artillery,
had joined them from Boston, that they could be induced to form anew.
In the mean time, every effort was made on the part of the Americans to resist a third
attack ; Gen. Putnam rode, notwithstanding the heavy fire of the ships and batteries, sev
eral times across the neck, to induce the militia to advance, but it was only a few of the
resolute and brave who would encounter the storm. The British receiving reinforcements
from their formidable main body — the town of Charlestown presenting one wide scene of
destruction — the probability the Americans must shortly retreat — the shower of balls pour
ing over the neck — presented obstacles too appalling for raw troops to sustain, and em
bodied too much danger to allow them to encounter. Yet, notwithstanding all this, the
MASSACHUSETTS. 273
Americans on the hights were elated with their success, and waited with coolness and de
termination the now formidable advance of the enemy.
Once more the British, aided by their reinforcements, advanced to the attack, but with
great skill and caution. Their artillery was planted on the eastern declivity of the hill,
between the rail fence and the breastwork, where it was directed along the line of the
Americans stationed at the latter place, and against the gateway on the north-eastern cor
ner of the redoubt ; at the same time they attacked the redoubt on the south-eastern and
south-western sides, and entered it with fixed bayonets. The slaughter on their advancing
was great ; but the Americans, not having bayonets to meet them on equal terms, and
their powder being exhausted, now slowly retreated, opposing and extricating themselves
from the British with the butts of their pieces.
The column that advanced against the rail fence was received in the most dauntless man
ner. The Americans fought with spirit and heroism that could not be surpassed, and, had
their ammunition held out, would have secured to themselves, a third time, the palm of
victory ; as it was, they effectually prevented the enemy from accomplishing his purpose,
which was to turn their flank and cut the whole of the Americans oft"; but having become
perfectly exhausted, this body of the Americans also slowly retired, retreating in much
better order than could possibly have been expected from undisciplined troops, and those
in the redoubt having extricated themselves from a host of bayonets by which they had
been surrounded.
The British followed the Americans to Bunker Hill, but some fresh militia at this mo
ment corning up to the aid of the latter, covered their retreat. The Americans crossed
Charlestown Neck about seven o'clock, having in the last 24 hours performed deeds which
seemed almost impossible. Some of them proceeded to Cambridge, and others posted
themselves quietly on Winter and Prospect Hills.
From the most accurate statements that can be found, it appears the British must have
had nearly 5,000 soldiers in the battle ; between 3,000 and 4,000 having first landed, and
the reinforcements amounting to over 1,000. The Americans, throughout the whole day,
did not have 2,000 men on the field.
The slaughter on the side of the British was immense, having had nearly 1,500 killed
and wounded, 1,200 of whom were either killed or mortally wounded ; the Americans
about 400.
Had the commanders at Charlestown Hights become terrified on being cut off from the
main body and supplies, and surrendered their army, or even retreated before they did from
the terrific force that opposed them, where would have now been that ornament and exam
ple to the world, the Independence of the United States ? When it was found that no rein
forcements were to be allowed them, the most sanguine man on that field could not have
even indulged a hope of success, but all determined to deserve it ; and although they did
not obtain a victory, their example was the cause of a great many.
From the immense superiority of the British, at this stage of the war, having a large
army of highly disciplined and well-equipped troops, and the Americans possessing but few
other munitions or weapons of war, and but little more discipline than what each man pos
sessed when he threw aside his plow and took the gun, that he had kept for pastime or
for profit, but now to be employed for a different purpose, from off the hooks that held it,
perhaps it would have been in their power, by pursuing the Americans to Cambridge, and
destroying the few stores that had been collected there, to implant a blow which could
never have been recovered from, but they were completely terrified. The awful lesson they
had just received, filled them with horror, and the blood of 1,500 of their companions, who fell
on that day, presented to them a warning which they could never forget. From the battle
of Bunker Hill sprung the protection and the vigor that nurtured the tree of liberty, and to
it, in all probability, may be ascribed our independence and glory.
The name of the first martyr that gave his fife for the good of his country on that day,
in the importance of the moment, was lost, else a monument, in connection with the gal
lant Warren, should be raised to his memory. The manner of his death was thus related
by Col. Prescott :
' The first man who fell in the battle of Bunker Hill, was killed by a cannon ball which
struck his head. He was so near me that my clothes were besmeared with his blood and
brains, which I wiped off in some degree with a handful of fresh earth. The sight was so
shocking to many of the men, that they left their posts and ran to view him. I ordered
them back, but in vain. I then ordered him to be buried instantly. A subaltern officer
expressed surprise that I should allow him to be buried without having prayers said ; I re
plied, ' This is the first man that has been killed, and the only one that will be buried to
day. I put him out of sight that the men may be kept in their places. God only knows
who, or how many of us, will fall before it 13 over. To your post, my good fellow, and let
each man do his duty.' '
The name of the patriot who thus fell, is supposed to have been POLLARD, a young man
274
belonging to Billerica.
ship Somerset."
MASSACHUSETTS.
He was struck by a cannon ball, thrown from the line-of-battle-
Cambridge is one of the oldest towns in New England. It may be
divided into four parts. North Cambridge, Old Cambridge, Cam-
bridgeport, and East Cambridge, all connected with Boston by rail
roads and omnibus every hour. It was incorporated in 1630, by the
name of Newton. It took that of Cambridge in 1638 — was incorpor
ated as a city in 1846. It has ever been closely connected with Bos
ton, in all its literary, intellectual, and political relations, and may
be considered as virtually part of the metropolis. The town contains
within its limits 26,000 inhabitants.
Outline View of Harvard College.
Old Cambridge is about three miles from Boston, and is the seat of
Cambridge University, or Harvard College, the oldest in the United
States. This institution was incorporated in 1638, and named Har
vard College, from the Rev. John Harvard, its principal founder. Its
endowments have been greatly increased by donations from the state,
and by numerous private bounties, so that in regard to funds, build
ings, library, professorships and literary advantages in general, it is
the most amply furnished institution of the kind in America. Its
funds now amount to over $800,000. It has a president, twenty-
four professors, and other instructors, and upward of one hundred
thousand volumes in its libraries. The principal college buildings
occupy an inclosed plain of fourteen acres. The observatory is a spa
cious structure, in which is mounted one of the largest and most pow
erful telescopes in the world. The number of students in all depart
ments — academical, theological, law, and scientific, is usually about
700.
The university buildings are pleasantly, though somewhat irregu
larly situated. Some have quite a venerable appearance, and others
which are newer are among the finest specimens of architecture in
the country. A large proportion of the houses in old Cambridge are
of the most elegant description, being built and located in a tasteful
manner. Cambridgeport is a more crowded and bustling mart of busi
ness. It has 7 churches, an atheneum and many beautiful resi-
MASSACHUSETTS. 275
dences. East Cambridge formerly known as Letchmere's Point con
tains 6 churches, a court house, the house of correction, the extensive
glass works of the New England Co., etc.
From the first settlement of the country, Cambridge has been a place
of importance. The first printing press in America was established
here in 1639, by Stephen Day. The first paper printed was the
Freeman's Oath. At the commencement of the revolution, during the
year 1775, the head-quarters of the American army were in this town,
and here Washington entered upon his duties as commander-in-chief.
His quarters were at the Craigie House, between the college and Mt.
Auburn. Mr. Longfellow, the poet, is the present proprietor and is
careful in preserving, as nearly as possible, the original appearance of
the house. The Washington Elm on the westerly side of Cambridge
Common, is also an object of interest, as under its branches Washing
ton was stationed while his commission was proclaimed to an army of
20,000 men drawn up on the common.
The Mount Auburn Cemetery is about a mile west of the university,
in the towns of Watertown and Cambridge. This hallowed spot was
dedicated Sept. 24, 1831. For beauty and variety of scenery it is
equaled by but few in this country. It contains about 100 acres of
land covered with a natural growth of trees, the highest part of which
is 125 feet above the river; it is laid out with winding graveled walks,
and embellished with every variety of shrubs and flowers. Numerous
monuments of costly material and exquisite workmanship are already
erected, constituting this a magnificent resting place for the dead. It
is surrounded by an iron fence, with an imposing gateway in the Egyp
tian style, and not far from the entrance is a chapel of granite, for the
performance of the burial services.
Roxbury lies 3 miles S. W. from Boston, and is one of the most beau
tiful places in the vicinity. It was incorporated a city in 1846. In
many parts of the city, the earth is full of rocks, and of the peculiar
kind called pudding stone. It is however very highly cultivated, and
one of the great beauties of the city is in its gardens. It has a city
hall, atheneum with a library of 5,000 volumes, 20 churches and is am
ply supplied with schools. Population about 25,000. It has exten
sive manufactories of india rubber goods, white lead, patent leather,
hats, various branches of iron manufacture, etc. The Forest Hill
Cemetery, containing nearly 100 acres, five miles from Boston, is a re
markably picturesque spot which has been artistically improved and ar
ranged. Roxbury was the birthplace of Gen. Warren. On the spot
where he was born has been erected a stone house, on the front of
which is inserted a marble tablet with this inscription :
• "On this spot stood a house erected in 1720 by Joseph Warren, of Boston, remarkable as
being the birthplace of General Joseph Warren, his grandson, who was killed on Bunker
Hill, June 17, 1775."
Gen. Warren, the son of a farmer, was born here in 1740. He was
educated for a physician, and practiced in Boston. He was one of the
first members of the Sons of Liberty, and became a leader among the peo-
18
276
MASSACHUSETTS.
pie, in suggesting and executing measures against the encroachments of
the English government. "He delivered the first annual oration on the
subject of the "Boston Massacre," in 1771 ; and in 1775, he solicited
the honor of performing the perilous service again, because some Brit
ish officers had menaced the life of any one who should attempt it.
The "Old South" was crowded, and the aisles, stairs, and pulpit, were
filled with British soldiers, full armed. The intrepid young orator
entered by a window, spoke fearlessly, in the presence of those bay
onets which seemed alive with threats, of the early struggles of the
colonies of New England, and then, in sorrowful tones and deep
pathos of expression, told of the wrongs and oppressions under which
they were then suffering. Even the soldiers wept; and thus the young
hero, firm in the faith that ' resistance to tyrants is obedience to God,'
triumphantly, and fearlessly bearded the lion in his den. From that day
Gage regarded him as a dangerous man." When John Hancock went
to the continental congress, Warren was chosen to fill his place as
president of the Massachusetts Provincial Assembly, and just before
the battle of Bunker Hill he was
commissioned major general. In
that battle he was among the last
to retreat, and as he retreated,
fell dead, pierced by a musket ball
through his head. His death was
a terrible blow to the cause of the
patriot. "Not all the havoc and
devastation they have made has
wounded me like the death of
Warren," wrote the wife of John
Adams, three weeks after. "We
want him in the senate; we want
him in his profession ; we want
him in the field. We mourn for
the citizen, the senator, the physi
cian, and the warrior."
[Annexed is a view of the
monument on Lexington Green,
or Common, erected on the spot
where the first Americans fell in
the Revolution. The Green is
rather irregular in form, and is
quite altered since in its general
appearance. The Congregational
Church is seen northward of the monument: anciently it stood to
the south near where the flagstaff is erected.]
Lexington, so famous in revolutionary history, is about 10 miles by
railroad N. W. from Boston, and 7 E. from Concord. It is principally
an agricultural township, and somewhat distinguished for its milk-
LEXINGTON MONUMENT.
MASSACHUSETTS. 277
dairies which supply milk to the Boston market. The engraving be
neath shows the far famed spot where the first blood was shed at the
opening of the drama of the revolution. On the monument repre
sented on the preceding page, is the following inscription :
"Sacred to the Liberty and the Rights of Mankind ! — The Freedom and
Independence of America, — Sealed and defended with the blood of her sons.
This monument is erected — By the Inhabitants of Lexington — Under the
patronage, and at the expense of — The Commonwealth of Massachusetts, —
To the memory of their Fellow Citizens — Ensign Robert Munroe, Messrs.
Jonas Parker, — Samuel Hadley, Jonathan Harrington, Jr., — Isaac Muzzy,
Caleb Harrington, and John Brown — Of Lexington, and Asahel Porter, of
Woburn — Who fell on this field, the first victims to the — Sword of British
Tyranny and Oppression — On the morning of the ever memorable — Nine
teenth of April, An. Dom. 1775. — The Die was Cast! — The Blood of these
Martyrs — In the cause of God and their Country, — Was the Cement of the
Union of these States, then — Colonies, and gave the spring to the Spirit,
Firmness — And Resolution of their Fellow Citizens — They rose as one man
to revenge their brethren's — Blood, and at the point of the sword to assist
and — Defend their native Rights. — They nobly dared to be free! — The con
test was long, bloody and affecting, — Righteous Heaven approved the solemn
appeal ; — Victory crowned their arms ; — And the Peace, Liberty, and Inde
pendence, of the United — States of America, was their glorious Reward. —
Built in the year 1799."
Lexington Meeting-House^ etc., from a drawing taken in 1775.
Buckman's tavern (still standing) is seen on the left; the meeting-house in the central part ; the two fig
ures designate the spot on which the American militia stood when fired on by the British troops.
A considerable quantity of military stores having been collected by
the Americans at Concord, Gen. Gage in order to destroy them, on
the night preceding the 19th of April, 1775, detached Col. Smith and
Major Pitcairn with 800 men from Boston, who commenced a silent
and expeditious march for Concord. They were however discovered,
and the alarm given by church bells, signal guns, and volleys. The
following account is from Holmes' Annals.
On the arrival of the British troops at Lexington, toward five in the morn
ing, about 70 men, belonging to the minute company of that town, were found
on the parade, under arms. Major Pitcairn, who led the van, galloping up
to them, called out, "Disperse, disperse, you rebels; throw down your arms
278 MASSACHUSETTS.
and disperse." The sturdy yeomenry not instantly obeying the order, lie
advanced nearer, fired his pistol, flourished his sword, and ordered his sol
diers to fire. A discharge of arms from the British troops, with a huzza, im
mediately succeeded; several of the provincials fell, and the rest dispersed.
The firing continued after the dispersion, and the fugitives stopped and re
turned the fire. Eight Americans were killed, three are four of them at the
first fire of the British ; the others after they had left the parade. Several
were also wounded.
The British detachment proceeded to Concord. The inhabitants of that
town, having received the alarm, drew up in order for defense; but observing
the number of the regulars to be too great for them to encounter, they re
tired over the north bridge at some distance beyond the town, and waited for
reinforcements. A party of British light infantry followed them, and took
possession of the bridge, while the main body entered the town, and pro
ceeded to execute their commission. They disabled two 24 pounders, threw
500 pounds of ball into the river, and wells, and broke in pieces about 60
barrels of flour. The militia being reinforced, Maj. Buttrick, of Concord,
who had gallantly offered to command them, advanced toward the bridge;
but, not knowing of the transaction at Lexington, ordered the men not to
give the first fire, that the provincials might not be the aggressors. As he
advanced, the light infantry retired to the Concord side of the river, and be
gan to pull up the bridge; and, on his nearer approach, they fired, and killed
a captain f and one of the privates. The provincials returned the fire; a skir
mish ensued ; and the regulars were forced to retreat with some loss.| They
were soon joined by the main body; and the whole detachment retreated
with precipitancy. All the people of the adjacent country were by this
time in arms; and they attacked the retreating troops in every direction.
Some fired from behind stonewalls and other coverts; others pressed on their
rear; and, thus harassed, they made good their retreat six miles back to Lex
ington. Here they were joined by Lord Piercy, who most opportunely for
them, had arrived with a detachment of 900 men and two pieces of cannon. ||
The enemy, now amounting to about 1800 men, having halted an hour or two
at Lexington, recommenced their march; but the attack from the provincials
* The shrewd and successful address of Capt. Timothy Wheeler on this occasion deserves
notice. He had the charge of a large quantity of provincial flour, which, together with
some casks of his own, was stored in his barn. A British officer demanding entrance, ho
readily took his key and gave him admission. The officer expressed his pleasure at the dis
covery ; but Capt. Wheeler, with much affected simplicity, said to him, putting his hand on
a barrel, " This is my flour. I am a miller, sir. Yonder stands my mill; I get my living
by it. In the winter I grind a great deal of grain, and get it ready for market in the
spring. This," pointing to one barrel, " is the flour of wheat ; this," pointing to another,
" is the flour of corn ; this is the flour of rye ; this," putting his hand on his own casks,
11 is my flour; this is my wheat; this is my rye; this is mine." "AVell,"said the officer,
" we do not injure private property ; " and withdrew, leaving this important depository un
touched.
fCapt. Isaac Davis, of Acton, who, with a company of minute men, composed the front.
J The conduct of Maj. Buttrick was the subject of high applause at Concord. He ani
mated his men to descend from the eminence, where they had been posted, to the west end
of the bridge, where they would be exposed to the direct fire of the British troops ; and yet
until they should receive their fire might not discharge a single gun. The effect of indi
vidual example in such a moment is incalculable. Maj. Buttrick afterward received a colo
nel's commission, and passed worthily through the revolutionary war.
|| Lord Piercy formed his detachment into a square, in which he inclosed Col. Smith's
party, " who were so much exhausted with fatigue that they were obliged to lie down for
rest on the ground, their tongues hanging out of their mouths, like those of doyu after a chase."
MASSACHUSETTS. 279
was renewed at the same time; and an irregular yet very galling fire was kept
up on each flank, as well as in the front and rear. The close firing from be
hind stone walls by good marksmen put them in no small confusion; but they
kept up a brisk retreating fire on the militia and minute men. A little after
sunset the regulars reached Bunker Hill, where, exhausted with excessive
fatigue, they remained during the night, under the protection of the Somer
set man-of-war, and the next morning went into Boston.*
Main Street, Worcester.
The view is taken at the south-western entrance of Maih-st., in Worcester. The old South Church and
the Town House, are seen on the right. The court house and Antiquarian Hall are situated near the
northern extremity of the street.
WORCESTER is one of the largest and most nourishing inland cities
in New England. Its central situation, both in regard to the county
and state, the fertility of its soil, and that of the surrounding country
and the industry, intelligence, and wealth of the inhabitants, entitle
it to the name which it has long borne, the "Heart of the Common
wealth." By the construction of railroads in various directions, it
has become a central point for the surrounding country. Distance
from Boston by railroad, 44 miles, to Springfield, 54, to Albany, N.
Y., 156, to Providence, R. I., 43, to Norwich, Conn., 59 miles. There
are 16 houses for public worship. Population about 25,000.
Worcester is in a valley, surrounded by hills of gentle acclivity.
There are many handsome streets in the city, but the most important
is Main street, which is about a mile in length, wide, well shaded,
having on each side tasteful and noble buildings. Worcester has long
been the residence of gentlemen of wealth, and its access from any
part of the country is rendered so easy by railroads, as to have be-
* In this excursion, 05 of the regulars were killed, 180 wounded, and 28 made prisoners ;
total, 273. Of the provincials, 50 were killed, 34 wounded, and four missing ; total, 88.
280 MASSACHUSETTS.
come a favorite place of resort. The accommodations for travelers,
or for those who wish to make Worcester a temporary resort, are of
the best kind.
The State Lunatic Hospital, established at Worcester in 1832, is a
noble and flourishing institution. The building is beautifully situated,
and its plans and arrangements are such as to render it a model for
similar institutions in other states. The College of the Holy Cross,
a Catholic institution, has been established here, and is rapidly regain
ing the position it had acquired just before it was burnt in July, 1852.
In 1844, the first college was finished and opened to the admission
of students, under the direction of the Fathers of' the Society of
Jesus.
The American Antiquarian Society was founded in 1812. By the
liberality of ISAIAH THOMAS, one of its first benefactors, a spacious
hall was erected in 1820, for the reception of its large and valuable
cabinet of antiquities, and of its library of about 12,000 volumes of
American publications, particularly of all works pertaining to Ameri
can history. The society has recently erected a new and commodious
edifice in the main street next the court house. Mr. Thomas was a
father of New England printers. He published the first newspaper
here in 1775, and a few years after, the first Bible in America. He
was a gentleman of great patriotism and liberality. He was born in
Boston, in 1749, and died in Worcester, April 4, 1831.
During the first movements of the revolution, Worcester was the central point
whence the animating influences in favor of American freedom were diffused over
the surrounding country. In March, 1775, the company of minute-men in this
place, were directed to train half a day in each week. This company had met
almost daily for months, and, under the instruction of Capt. Bigelow, they attained
great proficiency in military science.
"Their services were soon to be required for the defense of the country. Before
noon, on the 19th of April, an express came to the town, shouting, as he passed
through the street at full speed, ' To arms ! to arms ! the war is begun ! His
white horse, bloody with spurring and dripping with sweat, fell exhausted by the
church. Another was instantly procured, and the tidings went on. The passage
of the messenger of war, mounted on his white steed, and gathering the population
to battle, made vivid impression on memory. The tradition of his appearance is
preserved in many of our villages. In the animated description of the aged, it
seems like the representation of death on the pale horse, careering through the
land with his terrific summons to the grave. The bell rang out the alarm, cannon
were fired, and messengers sent to every part of the town to collect the soldiery.
As the news spread, the implements of husbandry were thrown by in the field, and
the citizens left their homes with no longer delay than to seize their arms. Tn a
short time the minute-men were paraded on the green, under Capt. Timothy Bige-
low; after fervent prayer, by the Rev. Mr. Maccarty, they took up the line of
inarch. They were soon followed by as many of the train bands as could be
gathered, under Capt. Benjamin Flagg. On that day, 110 men marched from the
town of Worcester for Concord. Intelligence of the retreat of the enemy met
them after they had advanced, and they turned toward Boston. When Capt Bige-
low reached the ancient Howe tavern, in Sudbury, he halted to rest his men.
Capt. Benjamin Flagg, who had commenced his march an hour or two later, came
up, and insisting on pushing forward without loss of time, both officers moved on
to Cambridge."
The following occurrences took place in this town, during Shays'
MASSACHUSETTS. 281
rebellion, the account of which is derived from Lincoln's History of
Worcester :
" Although warning of danger had been given, confiding in the loyalty of the
people, their love of order, and respect for the laws, the officers of government had
made no preparations to support the court, to be held in Worcester, in September,
1786. On Monday night, of the first week in that month, a body of 80 armed men,
under Capt. Adain Wheeler, of Hubbardston, entered the town, and took posses
sion of the court house. Early the next morning, their numbers were augmented
to nearly 100, and as many more collected without fire-arms. The judges of the
common pleas had assembled at the house of the Hon. Joseph Allen. At the
usual hour, with the justices of the sessions and the members ol the bar, attended
by the clerk and sheriff, they moved toward the court house. Chief Justice Arte-
mas Ward, a general of the revolution, united intrepid firmness with . prudent
moderation. His resolute and manly bearing on that day of difficulty and em
barrassment, sustained the dignity of the office he bore, and commanded the re
spect even of his opponents. On him devolved the responsibility of an occasion
affecting deeply the future peace of the community; and it was supported well and
ably.
On the verge of the crowd thronging the hill, a sentinel was pacing on his round,
who challenged the procession as it approached his post. Gen. Ward sternly or
dered the soldier, formerly a subaltern of his own particular regiment, to recover
his leveled musket. The man, awed by the voice he had been accustomed to
obey, instantly complied, and presented his piece in military salute to his old com
mander. The court, having received the honors of war from him who was planted
to oppose their advance, went on. The multitude, receding from the right and
left, made way in sullen silence, until the judicial officers reached the courthouse.
On the steps was stationed a file of men with fixed bayonets ; on the front stood
Capt. Wheeler, with his drawn sword. The crier was directed to open the doors,
and permitted to throw them back, displaying a party of infantry with their guns
leveled, as if ready to fire. Judge Ward then advanced, and the bayonets were
turned against his breast. He demanded, repeatedly, who commanded the people
there ; by what authority, and for what purpose, they had met in hostile array.
Wheeler at length replied. After disclaiming the rank of leader, he stated, that
they had come to relieve the distresses of the country, by preventing the sittings
of courts until they could obtain redress of grievances. The chief justice an
swered, that he would satisfy them their complaints were without just foundation.
He was told by Capt. Smith, of Barre, that any communication he had to make
must be reduced to writing. Judge Ward indignantly refused to do this: he said
'he did not value their bayonets; they might plunge them to his heart; but
while that heart beat he would do his duty ; when opposed to it, his life was of
little consequence : if they would take away their bayonets and give him some po
sition where he could be heard by his fellow-citizens, and not by the leaders alone,
who had deceived and deluded them, he would speak, but not otherwise.' The in
surgent officers, fearful of the effect of his determined manner on the minds of
their followers, interrupted. They did not come there, they said, to listen to long
speeches, but to resist oppression: they had the power to compel submission; and
they demanded an adjournment without day. Judge Ward peremptorily refused
to answer any proposition, unless it was accompanied by the name of him by
whom it was made. They then desired him to fall back ; the drum was beat, and
the guard ordered to charge. The soldiers advanced, until the points of their
bayonets pressed hard upon the breast of the chief justice, who stood as immovable
as a siutue, without stirring a limb or yielding an inch, although the steel in the
hands of desperate men penetrated his dress. Struck with admiration by his in
trepidity, and shrinking from the sacrifice of life, the guns were removed, and
Judge Ward, ascending the steps, addressed the assembly. In a style of clear
and forcible argument, he examined their supposed grievances ; exposed their fal
lacy ; explained the dangerous tendency of their rash measures ; admonished them
that they were placing in peril the liberty acquired by the efforts and sufferings
of years, plunging the country in civil war, and involving themselves and their
282
MASSACHUSETTS.
families in misery: that the measures they had taken, must defeat their mm
wishes; for the government would never yield that to force, which would be
readily accorded to respectful representations; and warned them that the majesty
of the laws would be vindicated, and their resistence of its power avenged. He
spoke nearly two hours, not without frequent interruption. But admonition and
argument were unavailing; the insurgents declared they would maintain their
ground until satisfaction was obtained. Judge Ward, addressing himself to
Wheeler, advised him to suffer the troops to disperse: ' they were waging Avar,
which was treason, and its end would be, he added, after a momentary pause, 'the
gallows.' The judges then retired unmolested, through armed files. Soon after
the court was opened at the United States Arms Tavern, and immediately ad
journed to the next day."
South View of Springfield.
Taken from near the railroad on the bank of the Connecticut, south from the city. The Western Rail
road bridge over the Connecticut, appears on the extreme left. The U. S. Armory is seen on the hill on
the extreme right. Mount Tom, on the west side of the Connecticut, is seen in the central part in the
distance.
SPRINGFIELD, one of the most beautiful and important inland towns
in New England, lies on the east bank of Connecticut River, 98 miles
W. by S. from Boston; 102, E. by S. from Albany, N. Y. ; 138 N. E.
from New York ; and 26 N. from Hartford, Conn. Population about
15,000. The main street runs parallel with the Connecticut, extend
ing upward of two miles. The houses are well built, and many are
elegant. Springfield is the center of a large inland and river com
merce, its natural and artificial advantages rendering it one of the
most important commercial depots on the Connecticut River, be
ing nearly equidistant from Boston and Albany, on the line of the
Western Railroad, and at the point of intersection of the great route
N. and S. through the Connecticut valley.
The United States Armory, at Springfield, is the most important
arsenal of construction in the United States, and its establishment
MASSACHUSETTS. 283
here ear.y gave an impulse to the enterprise and prosperity of the
place. The principal armory buildings are on the elevated table land
east of the main street, called the " Hill," and are arranged in a
handsome manner around a square. From 12,000 to 15,000 muskets
are manufactured here annually, and about 200,000 are stored in the
arsenals of the establishment. Mill River, which here flows into the
Connecticut, is an extensive water power, which is used for manufac
tories and mills of various kinds. Springfield was selected at an early
period of the Revolution, as a suitable place for making the various
munitions of war, and for a depot for military stores, it being out of
the reach of any sudden invasion of the enemy.
William Pynchon may be considered as the father of Springfield.
He was one of the patentees of the colony charter, and was appointed
a magistrate in 1629, in England, at the same time with the governor
and other officers. In 1635, Mr. Pynchon had leave of the general
court to remove to any place under the jurisdiction of Massachusetts.
The fertility of the land upon the Connecticut induced him and some
others to make a settlement here in 1636; it was at first called by its
Indian name, Agawam. For 40 years after its settlement, the inhabi
tants lived in peace with the Indians, but in Philip's war the town was
attacked, four persons were killed, and 30 dwellings were burnt. The
massacre would probably have been general, had not the inhabitants
been put on their guard by Toto, a friendly Indian.
In January, 1787, during Shays' rebellion, Springfield became the
theater of operations. The movements of the insurgents were such
that the governor and council determined to raise a force of 4,400
men, in order to put them down. Gen. Lincoln was entrusted with
the command.
" Before the troops under Gen. Lincoln marched from Roxbury, Gen. Shepard
had been ordered to take possession of the post at Springfield. He soon collected
900 men, and afterward 200 more, the continental arsenal fnrnishing them with a
sufficient number of field pieces, and such equipments as were wanted. It be
came an object with the insurgents to gain this post, if possible, before the arrival
of Lincoln's army. Their movements, therefore, were toward West Springfield on
the one side, where about 400 men were collected under the command of Luke
Day; and toward the Boston road on the other, where 1,100 more were headed
by Shays himself. Besides these, a party of about 400 from the county of Berk
shire, under the command of Eli Parsons, were stationed in the north parish of
Springfield. Shays proposed to attack the post on the 25th of January, and wrote
to Day on the 24th, to co-operate with him. In a letter which was intercepted by
Gen. Shepard, Day replied that he could not assist him on the 25th, but would the
day after. On the 25th, however, Shays, confident of his aid. about 4 o'clock in
the afternoon, approached the arsenal where the militia were posted, with his
troops in open column. Gen. Shepard sent several times to know the intention
of the enemy, and to warn them of their danger; and received for answer, in sub
stance, that they would have the barracks ; and they immediately marched on
ward to within 250 yards of the arsenal. Another message was sent, informing
them that the militia were posted there by order of the governor, and of congress,
and that if they approached any nearer they would be fired upon. One of their
leaders replied, 'That is all we want; ' and they immediately advanced 100 yards.
Gen. Shepard was now compelled to fire ; but, in hope of intimidating them, or
dered the two first shots to be directed over their heads, which, instead of retard-
284 MASSACHUSETTS.
ing, quickened their approach ; and the artillery was at last pointed at the center
of their column, which produced its effect. A cry of murder was raised in the
rear of the insurgents; their whole body was thrown into the greatest confusion,
and, in spite of all the efforts of Shays to form them, the troops retreated precipi
tately about 10 miles to Ludlow, leaving three of their men dead on the field, and
one wounded. Had Gen. Shepard been disposed to pursue, he might easily have
cut many of them in pieces. But the object was not to destroy them, but to bring
them to consideration and amendment.
NotAvithstanding this retreat, there was serious apprehension of another attack
from the insurgents ; for Day was now on the west side of Connecticut River with his
men, and Parsons at Chicopee, whither the party of Shays repaired (after losing
200 men by desertion) on the 26th. This apprehension was allayed the next day,
at noon, by the arrival of Lincoln's army."
Holyoke, originally known as " Ireland Parish," and forming then
a part of West Springfield, is on the west bank of the Connecticut,
nine miles above Springfield, at Hadley Falls.
" This flourishing town has sprung up, within a few years, almost
from nothing. It is already the seat of some of the most gigantic in
dustrial operations thus far entered into in New England. The Had
ley Falls Company, with a capital of $4,000,000, was incorporated
1848. Their first work was the construction of a dam across the
river. This was completed the same year; but it was swept away
within a few hours after the gates were shut. The next year the
company proceeded to build the dam which now stands, a masterly
work, the triumph of art over nature. It is more than 1,000 feet in
length, or about one fifth of a mile. The butments contain nearly
13,000 perches of solid masonry : 4,000,000 feet of timber were used
in the structure of the dam between the butments. This dam has
been well tested, having supported the almost incalculable weight of
the greatest freshet ever known on the Connecticut. Probably there
is no other such water power in this country, if in the world, as this
dam furnishes. The force is so great that the water can be used
twice by mills on two different levels.
The town is supplied with pure, soft water, from the Connecticut
River. A reservoir, capacious enough to hold 2,000,000 gallons, is
built upon the highest point of land in the village. Into this reser
voir, the water is forced by pumps driven by water.
The great water power, the convenience of its development and ap
plication, and the favorable location of the town, all go to show that
Holyoke is destined to be a great manufacturing city."
Northampton, the shire town of Hampshire county, considered
one of the most beautiful and best built villages in New England, is
17 miles N. from Springfield, 115 W. from Boston, and 76 N. from
New Haven, Conn., with which it is connected by railroads. The vil
lage contains seven churches, and an extensive water cure establish
ment on Round Hill, a state lunatic asylum, and about 4,000 inhabi
tants. Situated in the fertile and delightful valley of the Connecticut,
surrounded with beautiful and variegated prospects on every side,
with the magnificient front of Mt. Holyoke rising to the hight of 880
MASSACHUSETTS. 285
feet, on the opposite side of the river, the scenery of this place is
highly attractive.
The Indian name of Northampton, which formerly included several
surrounding townships, was Nonotuck. It was purchased in 1653,
for the consideration of 100 fathoms of wampum, 10 coats and some
small gifts, and also for plowing up 16 acres of land on the east side
Northern View of the Central part of Northampton.
The court house and Congregational Church are seen on the right ; the Holyoke Bank on the left. The
town hall is in the distance in the central part.
of Connecticut River. The original planters were 21 in number, and
the legal grant was made to them in 1654, by John Pynchon, Elizur
Holyoke, and Samuel Chapin. In 1657, the town employed an agent
"to obtain a minister, and to devise means to prevent the excess of
liquors and cider from coming to the town."
Rev. Solomon Stoddard, one of the first ministers in the town,
preached here nearly 60 years; he was succeeded by Jonathan Ed
wards, the celebrated divine, who continued here until 1750, after a
ministry of more than 23 years. Mr. Stoddard " possessed, probably,
more influence than any other clergyman in the province, during a
period of 30 years. He was regarded with great reverence. The
very Indians are said to have felt toward him a peculiar awe. Once,
when riding from Northampton to Hatfield, and passing a place called
Dewey's Hole, an ambush of savages lined the road. It is said that
a Frenchman, directing his gun toward him, was warned by one of
the Indians, who some time before had been among the English, not
to fire, because that man was "Englishman's God." A similar ad
venture is said to have befallen him, while meditating in an orchard
immediately behind the church in Deerfield, a sermon he was about
to preach." David Brainard, the celebrated missionary, died at the
286 MASSACHUSETTS.
house of Jonathan Edwards, in this place, andlry his side rest the re
mains of his betrothed, Jerusha, the daughter of Mr. Edwards.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the vil
lage grave-yard:
Here is inter'd the body of the Rev. Mr. SOLOMON STODDARD, A.M., some time Fellow of
Harvard College, pastor of ye church in Northampton, New England, for near 60 years ; who
departed this life Feb. 11, 1729, and in the 86th year of his age. A man of God, an able
minister of the New Testament; singularly qualified for that sacred office, and faithful
therein, sealed by the H.: Spirit, in numerous converts to Christ, by his solid, powerful, and
most searching ministry. A light to the churches in general, a peculiar blessing to this;
eminent for the holiness of his life, as remarkable for his peace at death.
Sacred to the memory of the Rev. DAVID BRAINARD, a faithful & laborious missionary to
the Stockbridge, the Delaware & the Susquehannah tribes of Indians, who died in this town
Oct. 10, 1747, aged 30.
SOLOMON WILLIAMS, born July 25, 1752, lived as pastor of the Church of Christ in
Northampton, 56 years and 5 months. His spirit ASCENDED in sweet peace to the Upper
Sanctuary on the morning of the Sabbath, Nov. 9, 1834.
In memory of CALEB STRONG, late Governor of Massachusetts, who, after a life eminent
for piety and devotion to the public service, died Nov. 7, 1819, in the 75th year of his age.
In memory of Rer. HENRY LYMAN, son of Theodore and Susan "W. Lyman, a Missionary
of the American Board, who, with his associate, Rev. Samuel Munson, suffered a violent
death from the Battahs, in Sumatra, June 28, 1834, aged 24.
We are more than conquerors.
Seven miles east of Northampton, in a highly picturesque country,
is the village of Amherst, the seat of Amherst College, one of the most
flourishing institutions in New England, established in 1821. More
than 1,000 young men have here obtained their education since the
college was first founded.
Pittsfield, Berkshire county, is finely situated at the junction of the
principal branches of the Housatonic River, and occupies a beautiful
expansion of the valley between the Taconic and Green Mountain
range, 151 miles W. from Boston by railroad, 49 E. from Albany, and
169 by railroad to New York. The settlement of this town was com
menced in 1752, by Solomon Deming, who moved here with his family
from Wethersfield. Mrs. Deming was the first white woman who
came here ; she was often left alone during the night, by the necessary
absence of her husband, when there was not another white person in
the town, and the wilderness was filled with Indians. She was the
last, as well as the first, of the settlers, and died in March, 1818, aged
92. Charles Goodrich, one of the first settlers, died in 1815, aged
96. He drove the first cart and team ;into the town from Wethers-
field, and was obliged to cut his way through the woods a number of
miles. Pittsfield is the seat of the Berkshire Medical Institution.
The young ladies' institute, and several other kindred institutions of
MASSACHUSETTS.
287
high reputation. There are seven churches in Pittsfield, and about
8,000 inhabitants.
Western View of Pittsfield.
As seen from the bridge on the New Lebanon road, underneath which the Western Railroad passes;
The Western Railroad Depot, the Car House, the spire of the Catholic Church, and the American House,
appear on the left. On the right, in the distance, is seen the ancient elm of Pittsfield, standing at its first
settlement. The First Congregational and the Free Churches, appear eastward of the Berkshire and
United States Hotel. The spires of the Baptist and Methodist Churches are seen in the central part.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the grave
yard :
REV. THOMAS ALLEN, first minister of Pittsfield.
1764, died Feb. 11, 1810, aged 67 years.
going to live forever!"
When
Id. Born Jan. 17, 1747, ordained April 18,
told he could not live, he said, " Live, I am
JOSHUA DANFORTH, who died Jan. 30, 1837. An officer of the Revolution. He served
under Washington throughout the War of Independence. Among the civil Fathers of
Berkshire, eminent for his virtues, Honored by the people, beloved by all. He was Post
Master of Pittsfield 43 years. Faithful and laborious in every variety of official station, he
nobly filled up the measure of duty to his Country. With the patriarchs of the Revolution,
and the dead in Christ, he now rests, having fully declared his faith for eternal Salvation
in him who is the Resurrection and the Life.
In memory of WOODBRIDQE LITTLE, Esq., who died June 21, A. D. 1813, aged 72. Mr. Lit
tle had no issue; he gave liberally to his poor relations and friends. To the support of
public worship and to missionary exertions. Those educated at Williams' College, by his
Charity, will, through future ages, celebrate his Christian benevolence. He whose wealth
is spent in works from which all may derive some comfort in this world of woe, holds no
mean rank in public estimation.
This monument, the avails of the steady industry and careful economy, of SAMUEL HART
FORD and AUNT ROSE, his faithful wife, was raised to their memory by her Administrator. They
were born in slavery, and became free by their honest carriage. "Act well your part, there
all the honor lies."
William Miller, the teacher of the ancient doctrines concerning
the second personal appearance of Christ upon earth, known as Mil-
288 MASSACHUSETTS.
lerism, was born in this town in 1771, and was educated as a farmer.
Before his death, which took place in 1849, at the age of 78 years,
he acknowledged his error in predicting the time of the end.
"About the year 1826, almost simultaneously with Joe Smith's annunciation of
his pretended visions, Mr. Miller began to promulgate his peculiar views concern
ing prophecy. It was not until 1833, that he commenced his public ministry on
the subject of the approaching Millennium. Then he went forth, from place to
place, throughout the northern and middle states, boldly proclaiming the new
interpretation of Scripture, and declaring that Christ would descend in clouds^ the
true saints would be caught up into the air, and the earth would be purified by
fire, in 1843. No doubt Mr. Miller was sincere. He labored with great fervor;
and during the 10 years of his ministry, he averaged a sermon every two days.
As the time for the predicted consummation of all prophecy approached, his dis
ciples rapidly increased. Large numbers embraced his doctrine, withdrew from
church-fellowship, and banded together as The Church of the Latter Day Saints.
Other preachers appeared in the field. The press was diligently employed ; and
an alarming paper, called The Midnight Cry, was published in New York, em
bellished, sometimes, with pictures of beasts, and the image seen by the Babylon
ian emperor in his dream; at others with representations of benignant angels.
The office of that publication was the head-quarters of the sect, and the receptacle
of a large amount of money continually and bountifully contributed by the disci
ples, even up to the very evening before ' the last day' in the autumn of 1843. The
excitement became intense. Many gave up business weeks before. Some gave
away their property to the managers of the solemn drama. Families were beg
gared, and weak men and women were made insane by excitement, and became
inmates of mad-houses. The appointed day passed by. The earth moved on in
its accustomed course upon the great highway of the ecliptic. The faith of thous
ands gave way, and infidelity poured its slimy flood over the wrecks. And these
were many — very many. Full 30,000 people embraced the doctrine of Miller, and
had unbounded faith in his interpretation of all prophecy-. In the course of a few
weeks the excitement subsided, and soon the rushing torrent dwindled into an al
most imperceptible rill.
The town of Williamstown, in Berkshire county, forms the north
west corner of Massachusetts. It is situated in a fertile valley, sur
rounded by lofty, mountainous elevations, and watered by the
Hoosic and Green Rivers, which unite here and add much to the ro
mantic beauty of the place. The village in the central part of the
town consists of some 50 or 60 dwellings, and the buildings con
nected with Williams' College. It is situated about 20 miles N. from
Pittsfield ; 45 from Northampton ; 135 from Boston, and 34 from
Troy, N. Y.
The town was first settled about 1751, and was called Hoosic by the Indians.
Nehemiah Smedley, William and Josiah Hosford, and some other young men, came
to prepare for themselves and families a settlement here, but were interrupted by
the hostilities of the Indians. Returning to Connecticut, they enlisted in a com-
pany to protect the frontiers, and came again, with other settlers, to this place, and
garrisoned a fort, which stood a few rods from the present meeting-house, and also
a block-house, near the West College. The inhabitants were exposed to frequent
alarms. In July, 1756, Capt. Chapin and two other persons were killed, and sev
eral carried into captivity. The dangers nearly ceased at the close of the French
war.
Williams' College, founded in 1790, was incorporated in 1793, and held its first
commencement in 1795, on the first Wednesday in September. It received its
name in honor of Col. Ephraim Williams, who was afterward one of the first set
tlers of Stockbridge. He was born at Newton, in 1715, and in early life was a
MASSACHQSETTS.
289
sailor, and made various voyages to Europe. In 1740 his attention was turned to
military life, and he served as captain of a company raised for service against
Canada. On the breaking-out of the war anew, in 1755, he had command of a
regiment which was ordered to join the forces under Gen. Johnson, raised in New
The view shows the College buildings as they appear from the east, on the North Adams road. The
Chapel is seen on the right, Jackson Hall and the Observatory on the left.
York, to oppose the advance of the French from Canada. On his way to the
army, in July, 1755, he made his will in Albany, by which he bequeathed a tract
of land, in Massachusetts, as a foundation " for the support of a free school in a
township west of Fort Massachusetts ; provided said township fall within Massa
chusetts after running the line between Massachusetts and New York, and pro
vided the said township, when incorporated, be called Williams town." The tract
thus devised, consisted of about two hundred acres, in the town of Hoosic, granted
him by the general court of Massachusetts for his military services.
Col. Williams, advancing with a large body of soldiers to attack the French advanced-
guard of Baron Dieskau's invading force, fell into an ambuscade in the neighborhood of
Lake George, and was killed. By his will, his executors were directed to sell his lands and
apply the interest of the proceeds, with that of certain bonds and notes, for the purposes
of a free school. In 1785, an act of the legislature was procured, incorporating a body of
trustees "of the donation of Ephraim Williams, for maintaining a free school in Williams-
town." William Williams Avas elected president, and Rev. Seth Smith, treasurer. " Ad
ditional funds were solicited ; a committee was appointed to erect a school-house, which,
completed in 1790, is now the ' West College ' of the institution."
The school was opened in October, 1791, under Mr. Ebenezer, afterward Rev. Dr. Fitch,
of Connecticut. It consisted of two departments — an academy or grammar school, and an
English free school. A considerable number of students resorted to it, from Massachu
setts and the neighboring states, and even from Canada. In 1793 the legislature erected
the school into a college. The Eastern College, standing on the eastern eminence in the
principal street, about 60 rods from the other, was erected in 1797 and 1798, from funds
derived from lands granted by the legislature. The buildings now consist of 4 large brick
edifices, for students, and an astronomical observatory, said to be the first in the United
States.
Adams, a flourishing manufacturing town in Berkshire county, hav
ing a population of upward of 6,000, contains two villages, about six
290 MASSACHUSETTS.
miles apart, North and South Adams. Saddle mountain, the highest
in the state, is near North Adams. Fort Massachusetts, built during
the French and Indian war, stood in the vicinity.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, ETC.
Capt. Miles Standish, the fighting man of the Plymouth colonists — the Hero of
New England — was diminutive in person, and ardent in disposition. Hubbard,
the historian, said of him: "A little chimney is soon fired: so was the Plymouth
captain — a man of very small stature, yet of a very hot and angry temper/' He
was a soldier by profession, and the colonists relied much on his military skill and
personal bravery, in their difficulties with the Indians. He finally settled in Dux-
bury, where he died in 1656. A place near the site of his residence is called " Cap
tain's Hill" to this day.
William Brewster, the first preacher to the Plymouth colonists, and, therefore,
the first in New England, commonly called "Elder BreAvster," was born in Eng
land, in 1560, and educated at Harvard. He eventually joined the society of Puri
tans, under the pastoral care of Rev. John Robinson, who made his house their
place of Sabbath worship. He was imprisoned for his religious principles ; but,
being set at liberty, he emigrated to Leyden, in Holland, and was chosen elder in
the church there over which his old pastor presided. Mr. Robinson remaining be
hind, Mr. Brewster accompanied his flock of Pilgrims to Plymouth, where for nine
years he rendered services in their church, preaching twice every Sabbath; but
never could be persuaded to administer the sacraments.
John Carver, the first Governor of Plymouth, and unanimously elected, admin
istered the government with great skill one year, when he died. William Brad
ford succeeded him. In the beginning of 1622, while the colony was subjected to
the horrors of a distressing famine, he received a threatening message from Canon-
icus, sachem of the Narragansetts, expressed by a bundle of arrows, tied with the
skin of a snake. The governor sent back the skin, stuffed with powder and ball,
which so terrified the Indians that they returned it without inspecting the contents.
Mr. Bradford was, with a few exceptions, annually chosen governor until his death,
in 1657, aged 68 years. Edward Winslow, one of the most accomplished men of
the colony, was elected governor at times when Bradford declined serving. He
acted as commercial agent of the colony, and finally returned to England, where
he was so highly esteemed that public duties were thrust upon him, so that he
never returned to America. He married Mrs. White, the widow of Wm. White,
and only two months a widow. She gave birth to Peregrine White, the first white
child born in New England, after her marriage to Mr. Winslow.
John Winthrop, the first governor of Massachusetts under the charter, was born
in England, in 1587. Among the most wealthy of the Puritans, he converted his
property into money, and emigrated to America in 1629, having been chosen gov
ernor before his departure. He held his first court under a large tree in Charles-
town, at which time the subject for consideration was "a suitable provision for the
support of the Gospel." Benevolence was the great trait in his character, and he
tempered the severity of the law with mercy to offenders. It was his custom to
send his servants on trifling errands among the people at meal-time, that he might
ascertain and then supply the wants of the needy from his own abundance. The
benevolent disposition of this good man and upright magistrate, led him to bestow
his charities so abundantly that he died quite poor at the age of 61 years.
John Eliot, commonly called "the Apostle to the Indians," was a native of
England. He came to Massachusetts in 1631, and settled in the ministry at Rox-
bury. About the year 1646, he began his labors among the Indians in his vicin
ity. Having, after great labor, learned their language, he translated the whole
Bible into the Indian language. This Bible was printed in 1664, at Cambridge,
and was the #rs2 Bible ever printed in America. He also translated the "Practice
of Piety," "Baxter's Call to the Unconverted" — beside some other smaller works —
MASSACHUSETTS. 291
into the Indian tongue. In the course of his labors, Mr. Eliot passed through
many scenes of danger and endured many hardships. He died in 1690, aged 86
years.
Cotton Mather, D.D., F.R.S., a celebrated minister and writer, was born in Bo.s-
ton, in 1663. He was distinguished for his early piety, unequaled industry, vast
learning, and, to a certain extent, for credulity. " He probably did more than anv
other man to promote the spread of that fearful delusion known as the Salem
Witchcraft," No person in America had so large a library, or had read so many
books, or retained so much of what he did read. His publications amounted in
number to three hundred and eighty-two. His great work was his Magnali Christi
Americana; or, Ecclesiastical History of New England from its founding to the
year 1698. This work, though pedantic in style, has rescued many important
facts from oblivion. He died in 1728, aged 65 years. His father, Increase Mather,
was a celebrated divine, a bold asserter of freedom, and at one time president
of Harvard University. Although he shared in the universal belief of the day in
witchcraft, yet his tender heart revolted against the cruel persecutions of those
accused, and, by pen and tongue, he was among the most efficient instruments in
the final suppression of legal proceedings.
John Hancock, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was the son of a
clergyman, and was born at Braintree, Mass., in 1737, and educated at Harvard.
He became
the most weal
thy merchant
in the prov
ince, and one
of the most
elegant and
accomplished
men of his
time. He was
renowned for
his liberality,
hospitality and noble public spirit. He was consulted when it was contemplated
to burn Boston to expel the enemy. He answered that, although a great part of
his fortune consisted of buildings within it, yet if its destruction would be useful
to his country, it should forthwith be set on fire. As the presiding officer of a pub
lic body, he was unsurpassed. In 1775 he was considered such a great rebel that
the British government offered a large reward for his person. In 1776 he had the
honor of being president of that immortal assembly which signed the Declaration
of Independence. When he affixed his name to that instrument, in that bold, no
ble hand so well known to every American, his heart was in the act, and he ex
claimed, " The British Ministry can read that name without spectacles — let them
double their reward!" In the year 1780 he was elected the first governor of Mas
sachusetts under the new constitution. He died in 1793, in the 56th year of his
age, and would have died poor, so entirely did he neglect his private affairs in his
country's good, but for his originally large fortune.
Eibridge Gerry, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born at Mar-
blehead, July, 1744. He graduated at Harvard College in 1762, and soon after
entered into commercial pursuits, in
which he acquired a fortune. He
was g°vernor of Massachusetts, min-
igter to France? and in 181] he was
elected vice president of the United
States. He died at Washington,
Nov. 23, 1814.
The term Gerrymander originated at the time he was governor of Massachu
setts, and from the circumstance that one of the political parties, to give their own
the ascendency in the legislature, made a political division of the senatorial dis
tricts in violation of geographical propriety.
19
292 MASSACHUSETTS.
John Adams, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, the first vice presi
dent and the second president of the United States, was born at Quincy, Mass.,
Oct. 30, 1735. He was educated at
f 4 Harvard College, and was bred to the
tr^/j fa // ^/ s Pract^ce °f ^aw- Settling in Boston he
U/1//1 /i //////?? 1<U t)ecame associated with Hancock, Otis,
C- t^/ ' L4/14//* • an(j others, in various measures, in fa
vor of the liberties of the people. In
1775, as a delegate in congress, he nominated George Washington to the office of
cominander-in-chief of the American army. He was one of the committee of five
who drafted the Declaration of Independence. In 1785 he was appointed the first
American minister to the court of Great Britain, and was the successor of Wash
ington to the presidency. He died on the same day with his compatriot, Jefferson,
July 4, 1826, and in the 92 year of his age. The last words he was heard to utter
were, "Independence forever"
John Quincy Adams, son of the preceding, was born at Quincy, in July, 1767.
From an early period he was engaged in public life, and was sent as an embassa-
dor of the United States to various European courts. He was one of the commis
sioners who signed the treaty at Ghent, in 1815. He was secretary of state under
President Monroe. He was elected president of the United States in 1825, and
continued in that office for four years. In 1831 he took his seat in the house of
representatives at Washington, and continued a member until Feb. 22, 1848, when
he was stricken down at the post of duty by an attack of paralysis, and expired in
the speaker's room, in the capitol, the next day. His last words were, "This is the
end of earth." He was in the 81st year of his age, and was denominated " the
old man eloquent.".
The annexed engraving is a representation of the two Adams' houses, near
the foot of Pennis Hill, in Quincy,
That on the right is the birth-place
of John Adams — the one on the left,
H. of John Quincy Adams. In the rear
pi of the dwellings is a meadow, con
nected with which is the following
;anecdote, often related by the elder
'Adams, respecting himself:
" When I was a boy, I had to study
BIRTH-PLACKS OF PRESIDENTS JOHN AND JOHN QUINCY the Latin grammar, but it Was dull,
ADAMS, AT QUINCY. f '
and I hated it. My lather was anx
ious to send me to college, and, therefore, I studied grammar until I could
bear it no longer, and, going to my father, I told him I did not like study,
and asked for some other employment. It was opposing his wishes, and he
was quick in his answer. 'Well, John.' said he, 'if Latin does not suit, you
may try ditching; perhaps that will. My meadow yonder needs a ditch,
and you may put by Latin, and try that.' This seemed a delightful change,
and to the meadow I went. But I soon found ditching harder than Latin, and
the first forenoon was the longest I ever experienced. That day I eat the
bread of labor, and glad was I when night came on. That night I made
some comparison between Latin grammar and ditching, but said not a word
about it. I dug the next forenoon, and wanted to return to Latin at dinner ;
but it was humiliating, and I could not do it. At night, toil conquered
pride, and I told my father — one of the severest trials of my life — that if he
chose, I would go back to Latin grammar. He was glad of it; and if I
have since gained any distinction, it has been owing to the two days' labor in
that abominable ditch."
MASSACHUSETTS. 293
Robert Treat Paine, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was the son
of a clergyman, born in Boston in 1731. He graduated at Harvard College, and
afterward prepared
himself for the min
istry, in which call
ing he was engaged
as chaplain in a mil
itary expedition against the French, at the north, in 1755. He afterward practiced
law in Boston, held various public offices, and died in that city, in 1814. He was a
sound lawyer, well versed in literature, and eminently upright. His son, of the
same name, a poet of some celebrity, was born at Taunton, Mass., in 1773, and
graduated at Harvard College, with a high reputation for genius. He died in 1811.
James Otis was born in West Barnstable, Mass., in 1724; was educated at Har
vard, and settling in Boston, as a lawyer soon attained the highest rank in his pro
fession. Before the year 1770, no American, excepting Dr. Franklin, was so well
known and so often named in the colonies and in England. But few memorials re
main of him, for his papers all perished, none of his speeches were ever recorded,
and he himself was stricken down, just on the eve of the revolution, by a bludgeon
in the hands of a ruffian. It is owing to these circumstances that the most learned,
eloquent and influential man of his time is so little known ; that the following lan
guage of President Adams seems exaggerated, although Chief Justice Dana, and
other eminent characters, used commendation equally strong. Says President
Adams: "I have been young, and now am old, and 1 solemnly say, I have never
known a man whose love of his country was more ardent or sincere ; never, one
who suffered so much ; never, one whose services for any ten years of his life
were so important and essential to the cause of his country, as those of Mr. Otis,
from 1760 to 1770.
He came upon the stage at a time when the mother country had determined to
enforce her "Acts of Trade; " — laws of parliament which bore with crushing force
upon the industry and enterprise of the colonies, especially those of New Eng
land. By these laws, the colonists could not engage in manufacture — because
the manufactures of England would be injured ; they were restricted in commerce,
because the English shipping interest would suffer.
In 1760, as a preliminary measure to their enforcement, application was made
to the supreme court of the province for writs of assistance, a species of search-
warrant, to be granted to the officers of customs to search for goods on which du
ties had not been paid. Otis was at this time advocate general, and unwilling to
advocate laws he believed tyrannical and illegal, he at once resigned his office,
which was not only very lucrative, but, if filled by an incumbent of a compliant
spirit, led to the highest favors from the crown.
The merchants of Boston and Salem engaged Otis and Thatcher to make their defense.
The trial took place in Feb., 1761, in the council chamber of the old town house in Boston,
before Lieut. Gov. Hutchinson, as chief justice, with four associate judges. The court
was crowded with the most eminent citizens, deeply solicitous in the cause.
The case was opened for government by Mr. Gridley, the old law tutor of Otis, and
very ably argued ; in all his points he made his reasoning depend upon this consideration: "if
the parliament of Great Britain is the sovereign legislator of the British empire, then," etc.
He was replied to by Mr. Thatcher, in an ingenious, sensible speech, delivered with great
mildness. " But," in the language of President Adams, " Otis was a flame of fire ; with
a promptitude of classical allusions, a depth of research, a rapid summary of historical
events and dates, a profusion of legal authorities, a prophetic glance of his eyes into futu
rity, and a rapid torrent of impetuous eloquence, he hurried away all before him. Ameri
can independence was then and there born. The seeds of patriots and heroes were then and
there sown. Every man of an immense, crowded audience appeared to me to go away as I
did, ready to take up arms against writs of assistance. Then and there was the first scene
of the first act of opposition to the arbitrary claims of Great Britain. Then and there the.
child INDEPENDENCE was born. In fifteen years, t. e. in 1776, he grew up to manhood, and
declared himself free."
The following year, Mr. Otis was elected to a seat in the Massachusetts General Assem
bly, and for nine years after he was in connection with Samuel Adams and John Hancock,
the very head and front of opposition to aggressive ministerial measures in New England.
294 MASSACHUSETTS.
In the summer of 1769, Otis published some very severe strictures upon the conduct of
the commissioners of customs. Happening in alone one evening into a coffee house where
Robinson, one of those commissioners, and a number of British officers were sitting, an
altercation ensued, when the lights were blown out, and the party, armed with bludgeons,
pounced upon him. He escaped death, but to meet a worse fate. His brain was injured,
and his reason dethroned. A verdict of $10,000 was awarded as damages in a civil suit
against Robinson. Otis, in a lucid interval, very magnanimously forgave the base ruffian,
and refused to receive a dollar of the damages awarded him. For many years, all through
the scenes of the revolution, the patriot lived on, with his great intellect in ruins, compar
atively useless to the world, and a deep grief to his friends. When at times the cloud was
lifted from his reason, he talked calmly of death, and expressed a desire to die by a stroke
of lightning. His wish was gratified. On the 23d of May, 1783, he stood leaning on his
cane at the door of a friend's house in Andover, watching the sublime spectacle of an ap
proaching thunder cloud, when suddenly a bolt leaped from it, like a swift messenger from
God to his spirit, and killed him instantly. Thus perished one of the master spirits of his
time, of whom few memorials remain ; but enough to show that the future historians of
the United States, in considering the foundations of American independence, must inscribe
a chief corner stone with the name of JAMES OTIS.
j Samuel Adams, a signer of the Decla-
/ ^' // / ration of Independence, was born in Bos-
JLS &L m/ e. Ss 't£&07*** ton, in 1722, educated at Harvard, and then
entered mercantile life. Elected to the
legislature of the province, the people found him one of their most steadfast
friends, the goveronment one of its mot inveterate opponents. Step by step, and
inch by inch, he fought the enemies of popular liberty, and was the most active
of the patriots of Bston in inciting tshe people to throw overboard the tea, in 1773.
When Gen. Gage, in 1774, sent to dissolve the colonial assembly, he found the
door locked; the key was in Samuel Adams' pocket.
After he had received warning at Lexington, the night of the 18th of April, 1775, of the
intended British expedition, as he proceeded to make his escape through the fields, he ex
claimed, when the day dawned, " This is a fine day ! " " Very pleasant, indeed," answered
one of his companions, supposing he alluded to the beauty of the morning. " I mean,"
he replied, " it is a glorious day for America ! " A few days before the battle of Bunker
Hill, Gage offered a pardon to' all rebels excepting Samuel Adams and John Hancock,
" whose offenses are of too flagitious a nature to admit of any other consideration than
of condign punishment." This virulent proscription, intended to be their ruin, widely ex
tended their fame.
As a member of the continental congress, he was an earnest advocate of the revolution,
which declared the colonies free and independent states ; and when some members faltered,
through fear of failure, the stern puritan exclaimed : " / should advise persisting in our
struggle for liberty, though it were renealed from heaven that 999 were to perish, and only one
out of 1,000 survive and retain his liberty ! One such free man must possess more virtue, and
enjoy more happiness than 1,000 slaves ; and let him propagate his like, and transmit to them
what he hath so nobly preserved."
The very faults of his character rendered his services more useful, by confining his ex
ertions to a single point, and prevented their being weakened by indulgence and liberality
toward different opinions. He had all the animosities and all the firmness that could qual
ify a man to be the asserter of the rights of the people. So inflexible he was in his prin
ciples, that sooner than pay an illegal tax of a sixpence, he would have been condemned as
a traitor, and mounted the scaffold. He succeeded Hancock as governor, and died in 1803,
at the age of 82 years. Notwithstanding his many years of eminent service, he must have
been buried at the public expense, if the afflicting death of an only son had not remedied
this honorable poverty.
Gen. Henry Knoxvr&s born in Boston, in 1750, where he became a bookseller.
In the revolution he was commissioned as major general, and greatly distinguished
himself as an officer of artillery. He was secretary of war in Washington's ad
ministration. He died in Thomaston, in Maine, in 1806. His death was sudden,
strangled while eating, by the lodgment of a bone in his throat.
Col. Timothy Pickering was born in Salem, in 1845 ; graduated at Harvard, and
became a lawyer. At the outbreak of the revolution, some most valuable papers
came from his pen. He was quarter-master general of the army. From 1790 to
1794, he made important treaties with the western Indians. He was in turn post-
one of
count
MASSACHUSETTS. 295
master general, secretary of war, and secretary of state under Washington. He
was for years after in the United States Senate. He was one of the leaders of the
federal party in the United States. He died in 1829, in his 84th year.
Benjamin Thompson, originally "an humble yankee schoolmaster," was 01
the many Americans who arose to eminence in foreign lands, becoming " a <
of the holy Roman Empire, and a companion of kings and philosophers." He
was born at Woburn, in Mass., in 1753. At the beginning of the revolution he
was a teacher at Rumford, now Concord, N. H., where he married the widow of
Benjamin Kolfe, Esq. Falling under unjust suspicion of being a royalist in senti
ment, because he spoke doubtfully of the American cause, he was compelled to
leave the place. It is said that he in vain sought for service in the American
cause previous to the battle of Bunker Hill. Being everywhere suspected of tory-
ism, he finally placed himself under the protection of Gen. Gage, in Boston.
Toward the close of the revolution, he for a short time served in New York as a
lieutenant colonel of a British regiment. After the war he went to Germany,
where he received from the reigning Duke of Bavaria all the honors that could be
conferred, and among others, that of count " of the holy Roman Empire," to
which he added the title of Rumford, in remembrance of his former residence.
• He introduced great improvements in the condition and discipline of the army.
At Munich he provided houses of public industry for the poor, to whom he be
came an object of almost idolatrous regard; and in grateful remembrance of his
services and benefactions, a monument was erected there to his honor. He died
in 1814. He bequeathed the annual sum of $1,000 to Harvard College, to found
the Rumford professorship. At his death the celebrated Cuvier pronounced an
eulogy upon his character before the Institute of France, as a man of science and
a philanthropist.
Fisher Ames was born at Dedham, in 1758; was educated at Harvard, and be
came one of the most eloquent of American orators and writers. He was in con
gress during all of Washington's administration, where he greatly distinguished
himself, particularly by his speech on "Jay's Treaty." In 1804, he was chosen,
but declined the honor, of the presidency of Harvard. He died in 1808.
David Porter, a commodore in the U. S. navy, and one of its most intrepid offi
cers, was born in Boston, in 1780. In the war of 1812, he made a most success
ful cruise in the Pacific; but after a desperate and gallant resistance against an
overwhelming force in the harbor of Valparaiso, his vessel, the Essex, was cap
tured. In 1829, he was appointed, by Jackson, minister to Constantinople. He
died in 1843, aged 60 years.
Joseph Story, LL.D., was born at Marblehead, in 1782; graduated at Harvard,
and at the early age of 31 years, was appointed one of the judges of the U. S. su
preme court. In 1830, he was chosen professor of the law school at Harvard.
He gained great eminence as a jurist and as a writer in law. His name is associ
ated with Chief Justice Marshall and Chancellor Kent, as one of the three great
legal minds in American history.
Amos Lawrence, one of those wealthy public-spirited merchants of Boston,
whose munificent gifts to objects of philanthropy and of general utility have shed
so much honor upon the character of that city, was born at Groton, in 1786, the
son of a deacon in a Congregational Church. He was apprenticed as a clerk in a
country store in his native town. During this apprenticeship of young Lawrence,
and for many years after, it was customary, throughout New England, for clerks
and apprentices, journeymen and employers, to prepare ardent spirits in some
form, to be drank in the middle of the afternoon. In common with the other
clerks of the establishment, he partook of the pleasant beverage, until he found
himself longing for the stimulus, as the hour for serving it approached, when he
had the resolution to abandon the dangerous habit. Many years afterward, ho
wrote to a young friend, respecting this incident in his life, as follows: "In the
first place, take this for your motto, at the commencement of your journey, that
the difference of going jtist right, or a little icrong, will be the difference of find
ing yourself in good quarters, or in a miserable bog or slough at the end of it. Of
296 MASSACHUSETTS.
the whole number educated in the Groton stores, for some years before and after
myself, no one else, to my knowledge, escaped the bog or slough ; and my escape
J trace to the simple fact of my having put a restraint upon my appetite."
When Mr. Lawrence became of age, he was seen on his way to Boston, with
twenty dollars in his pocket, his seven years' experience, and his good principles,
as his only capital with which to begin the business of life. After a brief clerk
ship in Boston, he commenced business for himself, in Dec., 1807, in a small store,
in what was then known as Cornhill. How the young merchant got on in his new
business, without capital, may in part be guessed at from what he wrote years af
terward, to a friend . " I practiced upon the maxim, ' Business before friends]
from the commencement of my course. During the first seven years of my business
in this city, I never allowed a bill against me to stand unsettled over the Sabbath.
If the purchase of goods was made at auction on Saturday, and delivered to me, 1
always examined and settled the bill, by note or by crediting it, and having it
clear, so that, in case I was not on duty on Monday, there would be no trouble for
my boys ; thus keeping the business before me, instead of allowing it to drive me."
With such principles he became most eminently successful in his mercantile ca
reer. All the time he could spare from his business was devoted to charitable la
bors. After his death, this inscription was found in his pocket: " What shall it
profit a man to gain the whole world and lose his own soul." No accurate state
ment can be made of all the sums which he bestowed on various objects. The
calls on him were continual; and it has been conjectured that the whole amount
of his benefactions exceeded $700,000; yet he died worth about $1,000,000. This
event took place in Dec., 1852, when he was in the 66th year of his age. His
younger brother, Abbot Lawrence, and partner in his merchandising and manu
facturing, was appointed minister to England in Taylor's administration. He also
was noted for his princely benefactions to objects of public utility ; in all amount
ing to hundreds of thousands of dollars. He died three years later than his
brother, Amos.
John Singleton Copley was born in Boston, in 1738, and became a pupil of the
celebrated English portrait painter, Smibert, who accompanied Dean Berkeley to
Rhode Island. His patronage waning, he went to England at the outbreak of the
revolution, and Avith Benjamin West obtained fortune and great fame as a painter
of portraits and of historical subjects. He died in 1815. Twelve years later, his
Boston born son became lord chancellor of England, and was elevated to the peer
age, with the title of Lord Lyndhurst.
William Hiclding Prescott, so eminent as an historical writer, was born at Sa
lem, in 1796; graduated at Harvard, and died in Boston, Jan. 28, 1859. Notwith
standing his great fame in Europe and America, it was said that in private life,
" the man was more than his books — his character loftier than all his reputation."
Horatio Greenough, the earliest American who gained eminence as a sculptor,
was born in Boston, in 1805, and died in Newport, R. I., in 1852. He spent many
years of his life in Italy, and whether at home or abroad, was the prized friend
of the most cultivated of men. The work in which he took the greatest pride was
his collossal statue of Washington, which now ornaments the public grounds in
the city of Washington.
RHODE ISLAND.
ARMS OF RHODE ISLAND.
THE first settlement of Rhode Island was commenced by Roger
Williams, at Providence, in 1636. Mr. Williams was one of the ear
liest Puritan ministers who came
over to New England. He was
charged with a variety of errors,
one of which was avowing the
doctrine that the civil magistrate
was bound to grant all denomina
tions equal rights and protection.
This doctrine at that period being
deemed destructive to true religion,
and to the safety of the state, he
was banished from Massachusetts
as " a disturber of the peace of the
church and commonwealth." He
repaired to Seekonk, where he pro
cured a grant of land from the In
dians, but being informed that he
was within the limits of Plymouth
colony, he removed to a place called by the Indians Mooshausic.
Mr. Williams purchased the lands of the Indians, and, in grateful
remembrance of the kindness of heaven, he called the place Provi
dence. Acting in conformity with the wise and liberal principle, for
avowing and maintaining which he had suffered banishment, he allowed
entire freedom of conscience to all who came within his borders, and to
him belongs the honor of having set a practical example of toleration
of all religious sects in the same political community. His care and
attention were not confined to his civilized brethren. He labored to
enlighten and improve the Indians. He learned their language, trav
eled among them and gained the entire confidence of their chiefs,
and by his influence over them probably saved those colonies, which
had driven him into the wilderness, from many sore evils.
In 1638, John Clark, William Coddington and sixteen others, being
persecuted for their religious tenets, went to Providence in order to
enjoy liberty of conscience. By the advice and aid of Roger Wil
liams, they purchased the Island of Aquetnec, now called Rhode Island,
and removed thither. Here they incorporated themselves into a body
politic, and chose William Coddington to be their judge or chief magis
trate. The fertility of the soil, the fine climate, and the toleration of
:>98 RHODE ISLAND.
all Christian sects, attracted many people to their settlement, and the
island in a few years became so populous as to send out colonists to
the adjacent shores. The island received its name on account of its
fancied resemblance to the beautiful "Isle of Rhodes" in the Mediter
ranean.
In 1642, Samuel Gorton and eleven other persons purchased of
Miantonimoh, the Narraganset sachem, a tract of land at Mishawo-
met, where he built a town, which was afterward called Warwick, in
honor of the Earl of Warwick, who gave them a friendly patronage.
When the New England colonies in 1643, formed their memorable con
federacy, Rhode Island applied to be admitted a member. Plymouth
objected; asserting that her settlements were within her boundaries.
The commissioners decided that Rhode Island might enjoy all the ad
vantages of the confederacy, if she would submit to the jurisdiction of
Plymouth. This she declined, proudly preferring independence to all
the benefits of dependent union.
The Rhode Island settlements were commenced as voluntary associa
tions without any charter from the English government. They pur
chased their lands from the Narraganset Indians. Neither of them
had any patent from the companies which claimed them by grant
from the crown of England. They were separate and distinct colo
nies, independent of each other, and having no bond of union except
their common origin, design, and dangers. In 1644, Mr. Williams
went to England as agent for the settlements at Providence and Rhode
Island, arid obtained of the Plymouth Company a patent for the terri
tory, and permission for the inhabitants to institute a government for
themselves. In 1647, delegates, chosen by the freemen, held a general
assembly at Portsmouth, organized a government, and established a
code of laws. The executive power was confided to a president and
four assistants.
In 1663, upon the petition of the inhabitants, Charles II granted
them another charter, under the name of " the governor and company
of the English colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, in
New England in America." This conferred on the colonists the right
to elect all their officers, and to pass laws for their government with
out the intervention of the king or parliament. The supreme or legis
lative power, was to be exercised by an assembly, which was to con
sist of the governor, ten assistants, and representatives from the
towns, all to be chosen by the freemen. This assembly granted to all
Christian sects, excepting Roman Catholics, the right of voting. In
1665, they authorized by law the seizure of the estates of the Friends
or Quakers who refused to bear arms; but this law, being generally con
demned by the people, was not executed.
The Narraganset Indians, one of the most powerful tribes in New
England, had their seat in Rhode Island. In the " King Philip War,"
this tribe was totally ruined by the destruction of their strong hold.
Dec. 19, 1675, Gov. Winslow with a force of 1000 men from the colo
nies of Massachusetts, Plymouth and Connecticut, passing through
RHODE ISLAND. 299
deep snows attacked their fort, and after a desperate resistance it was
fired and consumed. In this celebrated action, known as the "Swamp
Fight" about one thousand Indians perished. The final blow was
given to the Indian power by the death of King Philip, who was kill
ed near Mount Hope, by a friendly Indian in Aug. 1676.
"Probably none of the northern colonies, certainly none in proportion to its
size, was so deeply engaged in the slave trade as Rhode Island. Many of
the great fortunes of her merchants were amassed by that traffic. So late as
the year 1804-8, when the ports of South Carolina were opened for the im
portation of slaves, there were, of 202 vessels employed in the traffic, 70 Brit
ish, 61 from Charleston, and 59 from Rhode Island. From Boston there
was one, and from Connecticut one, and no others from the present Northern
States. Of the whole number of slaves imported, which was 38,775, there
were 7238 brought in Rhode Island vessels, and 450 in all other New Eng
land craft. Between 1730 and 1750 the slave trade of Rhode Island increas
ed with the West India trade, negroes being brought back as part of the re
turn cargoes. Yet it seems not to have been countenanced by the legisla
ture, for so early as 1652, the practice of slavery is denounced, and to hold a
slave more than ten years is made penal. In 1774 the importation into the
colony was prohibited ; and ten years afterward, it is provided that all child
ren of slaves born after March 1, 1784, shall be free."
Rhode Island went into the revolutionary contest with great zeal
and unanimity, abolished allegiance to the king, struck his name
from all legal processes, and directed all proceedings to be in the
name of the colony or state. The stamp act was resisted with great
firmness, and when the importation of military stores was prohibited
by the British government, the inhabitants seized the cannon in the
public batteries, and the general assembly passed resolutions for arm
ing the people. Liberty was given to several hundred of slaves, on
condition that they would serve in the revolutionary army. In 1776,
Rhode Island was invaded by the British under Gen. Clinton, who oc
cupied it until near the close of the war. Gen. Sullivan, aided by the
French fleet, made several unsuccessful attempts to dislodge the
enemy, and in 1778 laid seige to Newport, but was obliged to abandon
the attempt. In 1779, the British troops were withdrawn. In 1780,
Gen. Rochambeau, with a French force of six thousand men, arrived
in a squadron at Newport. Rhode Island was among the first to di
rect her delegates to sign the Articles of Confederation, to which she
adhered with great pertinacity. But at length, after all her associates
had adopted the constitution of the United States, she yielded, and
was admitted as the thirteenth state, May 29, 1790.
The original charter of Rhode Island confined the right of suffrage,
or voting, principally to the landholders. When she became a manu
facturing state, this was considered a grievance. A party was formed
in 1840, to extend the right of suffrage, called the suffrage party. In
January, 1841, the legislature, upon being petitioned, consented to
have a convention called to form a new constitution. This did not
satisfy the suffrage party, who issued a call for a convention a month
previous to that authorized by the state. This convention met, formed
300 RHODE ISLAND.
a constitution, and after submitting it to the people, declared it adopted
by a majority, and established as the supreme law of the state. Both
parties chose their state officers, Governor King at the head of the
charter party, and T. W. Dorr at the head of the other. After a con
siderable display of military force on each side, most of the officers
chosen by the suifrage party resigned their situations, and this threat
ening storm happily passed over without the effusion of blood. Dorr
was tried for treason, and condemned to hard labor for life, but was
liberated in 1844, by the legislature, after he had remained in prison
for about one year.
Rhode Island, in territorial extent, is the smallest in the Union,
having an area of 1,306 miles, about half of which is improved. It
is bounded N. and E. by Massachusetts, W. by Connecticut, and S. by
the Atlantic Ocean. It is about 47 miles long from N. to S., and 37
broad from E. to W. About one-tenth of the state is water, and a
very large portion of the residue is made up of islands. The interior,
with the exception of the intervales along the streams, is generally
rough and hilly.
Most of the islands, together with that part of the state adjoining
the salt-water, are quite fertile. The lands in the interior are better
adapted for grazing than tillage — the soil in many places being diffi
cult to cultivate. The face of the country is uneven, but no part can
be considered mountainous. The most considerable hills are Mount
Hope in the E., Woonsocket in the N., and Hopkins in the middle of
the state. On the banks of its many streams, are numerous manufac
turing establishments of various kinds. Narragansett Bay extends
from the sea more than 30 miles into the state, affording safe and
commodious harbors along its whole length. The harbor of Newport,
at its mouth, is not excelled by any in the United States.
From its abundant supply of water-power, Rhode Island has for a
long period been extensively engaged in manufactures, and the first
cotton mill in the United States was erected in her limits. The bank
ing capital exceeds $12,000,000. This great amount, so disproportioned
to the population of the state, is divided among nearly severity bank
ing institutions, and has generally been managed with safety to the
public and to the advantage of the stockholders. Her coasting busi
ness and foreign commerce are considerable. Anthracite coal has
been found to considerable extent on the island of Rhode Island and
also in Cumberland. The nearness of Rhode Island to the sea, miti
gates the severity of winter and tempers the heats of summer, making
it a place of resort during the warm season. The state is divided into
five counties, viz : Newport, Providence, Washington, Kent and Bris
tol. Population in 1790, 69,110; in 1850, 147,544; and in 1860,
174,633.
RHODE ISLAND.
301
PROVIDENCE, the semi-capitol of the state, and the second city in
New England, is situated at the head of Narraganset Bay, on the
Seekonk or Providence River, 35 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, 43
from Boston, 50 from Stonington, Conn., and 168 from New York.
Population in 1810, 10,071; in 1840, 23,172; in 1850, 41,513; now
about 53,000. The compact part of the city lies on both sides of the
river, wide and substantial bridges connecting these different sections :
its surface is irregular, rising abruptly on the east side more than
200 feet above the harbor. Owing to the uneven surface, but little
View of Market-Square, Providence.
The engraving shows the central part of Providence as seen from the western side of Providence River,
over which is a very \vide bridge, having the appearance of a regular street. The "What Cheer" building,
occupied by mercantile stores, banks, and offices, fronts the east side of the square. The post-office stands
immediately back, the entrance to which is through this building. The City Hall, the lower story of
which is tho market, is seen on the right. Merchant ships come into the city at the south side of the
bridge.
regard has been given to regularity in laying out the streets. Near
the center of the business portion, is a beautiful basin of water, walled
in by stone masonry, of an elliptic form, about a mile in circumfer
ence, the borders of which are adorned with shade-trees and graveled
walks.
Providence contains a large number of handsome churches and
other public buildings. The Arcade is a beautiful granite building,
222 feet long, 72 wide, and fronting on two streets. It is divided into
three stories, occupied for stores and offices, and lighted by a glass
roof. This structure was completed in 1828, at an expense of §130,-
000. The "What Cheer" building at the corner of north and south
Main-streets, is a fine free-stone edifice, mostly occupied by public
302 RHODE ISLAND.
offices. The railroad depots for passengers and merchandise are very
superior and commodious buildings, situated in the business part of
the city. Providence has 48 churches and societies, 41 of which have
houses of worship. The benevolent and literary institutions are nu
merous, and conducted upon the most approved systems. The Butler
Hospital for the Insane, having extensive grounds, was incorporated
in 1844. The Atheneum has a valuable library of about 12,000 vol
umes. The Rhode Island Historical Society have valuable collections,
in an appropriate and substantial building near the University. Be
sides this latter institution, the public schools, about 50 in number,
are an honor to the city and state. The Yearly Meeting Boarding
School occupies a lot in the E. part of the city, near the Dexter Asy
lum, is well endowed and prosperous. The manufactures of Provi
dence and its vicinity, employ a capital of about $6,000,000. Nu
merous establishments are in the city for the manufacture of jewelry,
several of which, it is stated, produce goods to the amount of a mill
ion of dollars annually. There are numerous foundries and machine-
shops, cotton, woolen, india-rubber mills, etc.; and almost all kinds
of articles manufactured in America are produced here. The for
eign commerce of Providence was formerly considerable, but since the
introduction of manufacturing pursuits it has declined.
Providence was first settled by Roger Williams, and some others, in 1636.
Mr. Williams, being persecuted for his religious opinions, was obliged to
leave the colony of Massachusetts about the middle of January, and pro
ceeded toward Narraganset Bay. The weather was severe and his suffer
ings great. He appears to have visited Osisarnequin, the sachem of Pokan-
oket, who resided at Mount Hope, near Bristol. Regarding the Indians as
the only proprietors, he purchased of the sachem a tract at Seekonk, where
he reared a habitation. Seekonk being within the limits of Plymouth col
ony, Grov. Winslow, in a friendly letter to Mr. Williams, induced him to re
move to the northern side of the Seekonk River, where he had the country
free before him.
Mr. Williams, with five companions — Wm. Harris, John Smith, Joshua
Verin, Thos. Angell and Francis Wickes — embarked in a canoe and pro
ceeded down the stream. "As they approached the little cove near Tock-
wotten, now India Point, they were saluted by a company of Indians with
the friendly interrogation, " Wliat Cheer" a common English phrase which
they had learned from the colonists.* At this spot they probably went on
shore ; but they did not long remain there. They passed round India Point
and Fox Point, and proceeded up the river, on the west side of the peninsula,
to a spot near the mouth of the Moshassuck River. Tradition reports that
Mr. Williams landed near a spring, which remains to this day. At this
spot the settlement of Rhode Island commenced. To the town here founded,
Mr. Williams, with his habitual piety, and in grateful remembrance of God's
merciful providence to him in his distress, gave the name of PROVIDENCE."
Providence suffered great losses in King Philip's war, and during the
Revolutionary contest, furnished her full quota of men and means in the
struggle. At the time of the Stamp Act, the Sons of Liberty assembled
^Equivalent to the modern How do you do? The lands adjacent to this spot were called
What Cheer, in memory of the occurrence. — Knowles' Memoir of Roger Williams.
RHODE ISLAND.
at the old tavern on the east side of the market-square, where the "What
Cheer" House now stands, and planned their measures in opposition to the
British ministry. From the balcony of this house the Declaration of Inde
pendence was read in 1776; here, on the market-square, a bonfire of tea was
made, to show their disapprobation of taxation without representation, and
through the Revolution this spot was the rallying place of Providence — "that
nest of rebels against the king."
In June 1772 the British armed schooner, Gaspee, was destroyed by
a party of persons from Providence, disguised as Indians, at a place
since called Gaspee Point, about six miles below the town. The fol
lowing narrative of this occurrence was written by Col. Ephraim
Bowen, of Providence, who was then a youthfnl actor in the scene.
We extract it from Watson's Annals :
"In -the year 1772, the British government had stationed at Newport, Rhode Island, a
sloop-of-war, with her tender, the schooner called the Gaspee, of eight guns, commanded
by William Duddingston, a lieutenant in the British Navy, for the purpose of preventing
the clandestine landing of articles subject to the payment of duty. The captain of this
schooner made it his practice to stop and board all vessels entering or leaving the ports of
Rhode Island, or leaving Newport for Providence.
On the 17th of June, 1772, Capt. Thos. Lindsey left Newport, in his packet, for Provi
dence, about noftn, with the wind at north, and soon after, the Gaspee was under sail, in
pursuit of Lindsey, and continued the chase as far as Namcut Point. Lindsey was stand
ing easterly, with the tide on ebb, about two hours, when he hove about at the end of Nam-
cut Point, and stood to the westward; and Duddingston, in close chase, changed his course
and ran on the point near its end and grounded. Lindsey continued in his course up the
river, and arrived at Providence about sunset, when he immediately informed Mr. John
Brown of the situation of the Gaspee. Mr. John Brown, the founder of Brown Univers
ity, and then one of the most extensive and energetic merchants in America, immediately
resolved on her destruction, and he forthwith directed one of his trusty shipmasters to col
lect eight of the largest long-boats in the harbor, with five oars to each, to have the oar
locks well muffled to prevent noise, and to place them at Tenner's wharf, directly opposite
to the dwelling of Mr. James Sabin. Soon after sunset, a man passed along the main
street, beating a drum, and informing the inhabitants that the Gaspee was aground on
Namcut Point, and inviting those persons who felt a disposition to go and destroy the
troublesome vessel, to repair in the evening to Mr. James Sabin's house. About nine
o'clock I took my father's gun, and my powder-horn and bullets, and went to Mr. Sabin's,
and found it full of people, Avhere I loaded my gun, and all remained there until ten o'clock,
some casting bullets in the kitchen, and others making arrangements for departure, when
orders were given to cross the street to Fenner's wharf and embark, which soon took place,
and a sea-captain acted as steersman on each boat, of whom I recollect Capt. Abraham
Whipple, Capt. John B. Hopkins (with whom I embarked), and Capt. Benjamin Dunn. A
line from right to left was soon formed, with Capt. Whipple on the right, and Capt. Hop
kins on the right of the left wing. The party thus proceeded until within about sixty yards
of the Gaspee, when a sentinel hailed, "Who comes there?" No answer. He hailed
again, and no answer. In about a minute Duddingston mounted the starboard gunwale,
in his shirt, and hailed, " Who comes there ?" No answer. He hailed again, when Capt.
Whipple answered as follows : "I am the sheriff of the county of Kent ; I have got a war
rant to apprehend you ; so surrender, d — n you."
I took my seat on the thwart, near the larboard row-lock, with my gun by my right side,
and facing forward. As soon as Duddingston began to hail, Joseph Bucklin, who was
standing on the main thwart by my right side, said to me, "Ephe, reach me your gun, and
I can kill that fellow .'" I reached it to him accordingly, when, during Capt. Whipple's re
plying, Bucklin fired, and Duddingston fell ; and Bucklin exclaimed, " / have killed the
rascal /" In less time than a minute after Capt. Whipple's answer, the boats were along
side the Gaspee, and boarded without opposition. The men on deck retreated below as
Duddingston entered the cabin.
As it was discovered that he was wounded, John Mawney, who had, for two or three
years, been studying medicine and surgery, was ordered to go into the cabin and dress Dud-
dingston's wound, and I was directed to assist him. On examination it was found the ball
304
RHODE ISLAND.
took effect directly below the navel. Duddingston called for Mr. Dickinson to produce
bandages and other necessaries for the dressing of the wound, and, when finished, orders
were given to the schooner's company to collect their clothing and everything belonging to
them, and to put them into the boats, as all of them were to be sent on shore. All
were soon collected and put on board of the boats, including one of our boats.
They departed and landed Duddingston at the old still-house wharf at Pawtuxet, and
put the chief into the house of Joseph Rhodes. Soon after, all the party were ordered to
depart, leaving one boat for the leaders of the expedition, who soon set the vessel on fire,
which consumed her to the water's edge.
The names of the most conspicuous actors are as follows, viz : Mr. John Brown, Capt.
Abraham "Whipple, John B. Hopkins, Benjamin Dunn, and five others whose names I have
forgotten, and John Mawney, Benjamin Page, Joseph Bucklin, and Toupin Smith, my
youthful companions, all of whom are dead — I believe every man of the party, excepting
myself; and my age is eighty-six this 29th day of August, 1839."
Western view of Brown University, Providence.
The view annexed shows the appearance of the University buildings, from College street. The fii>-t
building on the left is Hope College ; the next south, having columns in front, is the Manning Hall ; south
of which is the University Hall. The building partially seen on the extreme right is the Rhode Island Hall.
The College of Rhode Island owes its origin to the exertions of the
Rev. James Manning, a Baptist clergyman, a native of New Jersey,
and graduate of Princeton College. Mr. Manning visited Newport,
in 1763, for the purpose of securing to the Baptists then in the gov
ernment the benefits of a learned institution. A charter was obtained
from the general assembly, in 1764, for the college or university in
the English colony of Rhode Island, and Providence Plantations, in
New England, in America, with a provision that the trustees and fel
lows should at any time after be at liberty to give it a more particular
name " in honor of the greatest and most distinguished benefactor."
The provisions of the charter give the predominance to the Baptist de
nomination. The president is supposed to be of that order, but Friends,
Congregationalists and Episcopalians are represented in a minority of the
trustees. In 1765, Mr. Manning was chosen the first president, and in-
RHODE ISLAND.
305
structed a few pupils at his residence, at Warren, where the first commence
ment was held, in 1769. A local contest for the seat of the college was ter
minated the next year, by the selection of Providence. The work of in
struction went on with regularity until the revolutionary war, when a gap
appears from 1777 to 1782. While the British retained possession of Rhode
Island, Providence, then next in size and importance to Newport, was sup
posed to be peculiarly in danger. The town exhibited the appearance of a
camp. The college building (now University Hall) was first used as quar
ters for the artillery, and the ground around it for a parade, and afterward as
a hospital for the sick soldiery.
The college buildings, which are situated on the highest ground in the
city, have superior accommodations. The library, which is in Manning Hall,
is arranged in a very perfect manner, and contains about 23,000 volumes.
The libraries of the two societies among the students have about 7,000 vol
umes in addition. Rhode Island Hall contains the cabinet, the chemical
and philosophical apparatus, lecture rooms, etc. University and Hope Col
lege are for the accommodation of the students. In connection with the
regular collegiate course of the university, an English and scientific course
has been established for the benefit of those who do not propose to enter either
of the learned professions. This course is arranged for a residence of either one
or two years. The faculty consists of a president and six professors. This in
stitution received its present name in 1804, in honor of Nicholas Brown, Esq.,
who died in Providence, Sept. 27, 1841, in the 73d year of his age. He was
a wealthy merchant, and a most munificent benefactor, having given to this
university, in the course of 40 years, about $100,000. He also gave $10,-
000 to the Providence Atheneum, beside most liberal gifts to academies, col
leges and churches in various parts of the country.
The first newspaper printed in Providence was the " Providence Gazette
and Country Journal" the first number of which appeared on Wednesday,
the 20th of Oct., 1762. The second number was printed on Saturday, Oct.
30, the day being changed, as the paper states, so " that the gentlemen in
Newport and other towns in the southern part of this government, or in Con
necticut, who shall favor this undertaking, may receive their papers by the
post." The following poetical advertisement is from the Providence Gazette
of Nov. 19, 1796 : " The author, Jonathan Cady," says Judge Staples, in his
1 Annals of Providence,' " will long be remembered as a pains-taking, indus
trious, rhyming shoemaker. Among his cotemporaries, many there were
who could claim higher honors as a poet, but few better entitled to the ap
pellation of an honest man and good citizen."
ADVERTISEMENT.
It may be wise to advertise,
The work is now in hand ;
He makes a heel, neat and genteel
As any in the land.
Court, block and stick, made neat and sleek,
None equal in the state ;
All those that view, may say 'tis true,
What I do here relate.
But to be short, another sort
Of heels are called spring,
By John Smith made, this is his trade ;
He served and learned at Lynn.
Truly 'tis said, these heels are made
Within old Providence,
Sold by wholesale, or at retail,
One dozen at twelve pence.
The purchaser need go no further,
Only inquire of Bene Thurber,
And he can show you where to stop,
Because he lives close to my shop.
A bunch of grapes is Thurber's sign,
A shoe and boot is made on mine.
My shop doth stand in Bowen's lane,
And Jonathan Cady is my name.
The next week some brother poetaster addressed the following distich to
the rhyming cobbler :
306 RHODE ISLAND.
" To Mr. Jonathan Cady —
Make an end to your rhymes, clone accounts with the past,
And take to your heels, and you'll speed well at last."
The following appears as an advertisement in Oct., 1766 :
" To be sold at public vendue, to the highest bidder, at the jail in Providence, on Wed
nesday, 15th of this inst., October, by the order of the superior court, pursuant to his sen
tence, one Joseph , a stout, able bodied, active man, for the term of three years, to
satisfy the damages and costs of this prosecution, and conviction for stealing sundry goodd
from Mr. Obadiah Sprague, of North Providence. W. WHEATON, Sheriff."
On the 22d and 23d days of September, 1815, Providence was visited with
one of the most destructive and terrific storms on record.
"The storm of rain commenced on the 22d from the N. E., moderate through
the day, but at night the wind increased. On the morning of the 23d, the wind
blew with increased severity from the east, and about nine, A. M., veered to B. S.
E. ; at 10, or before, to S. E., and from this time to half past 11, the storm was
tremendous, and beyond, far beyond, any in the memory of any man living. Be
fore 12, the wind veered to S. W., and greatly abated. "The ebb tide, commenc
ing near an hour before the regular time of high water, relieved the minds of our
inhabitants from their apprehension of a more overwhelming calamity." " The
damage by the extreme violence of the wind, extended to the driving from their
anchors and fastenings all the vessels, save two or three that lay in the harbor and
at the wharves ; some against the bridge with such force as to open a free passage
for others to follow to the northern extremity of the cove above the bridge, to the
number of between thirty and forty, of various descriptions, from 500 tuns down
ward ; " " other ships and smaller vessels were lodged below the site of the
bridge, on the wharves on each side of the river. Scarcely a store that stood be
low Weybosset bridge, on either side of the river, but what was damaged or en
tirely broken to pieces. Many houses and barns were blown down by the excess
ive violence of the wind, and many others removed or broken by the hight of the
tide and violence of the waves ; by which India Point bridge, and the east and
lower end of Central bridge were carried off, and by their joint influence the Sec
ond Baptist Meeting-house, on the west side of the river, was destroyed from its
foundation." " The wind alone blew down, unroofed and damaged many houses
that stood out of the reach of the water." A number of persons were wounded,
and two lost their lives, David Butler and Reuben Winslow. A sloop of sixty
tuns floated across Weybosset street, and lodged in Pleasant street, her mast stand
ing above, and she by the side of a three story house." The amount of damage
in this town has never been ascertained, but was estimated to be nearly a million
of dollars. The violence of the wind was such as to take up the spray of the sea-
water and waft it through the air to that degree as to appear on glass windows,
salt to the taste, forty miles in the country, even to Worcester. On measuring the
hight of the tide from a mark of the highest ever known to our oldest peo
ple, this tide of 1815, appeared to be seven feet and five inches higher than then."
— Staples1 Journals of the town of Providence.
The first election of city officers took place in April, 1832, and
Samuel W. Bridham, Esq., was elected mayor. The population of
Providence, at this period, was nearly 17,000. The increase 'of in
habitants, the consequent difficulty of holding town meetings, and the
injudicious expenditure of public money, induced some of the freemen
to propose a change in the form of the municipal government of the
town. The freemen were nearly equally divided on this subject, and
it is probable the town government would have existed some years
longer, had it not been for "the Riot" which took place in Sept.,
1831. The want of delegated power in the authorities of the town in
a time of peril was illustrated. The history of this event is from a
RHODE ISLAND. 3Q7
report of a committee of the citizens appointed to investigate the
subject :
The first of the recent riots took place on Wednesday evening, Sept. 21. Five
sailors, after supper, started from their boarding houses in the southerly part of
the town to go " on a cruise." They arrived at the foot of Olney's lane about
eight o'clock, where they met six or seven men, of one of the steamboats, with
sticks or clubs in their hands, and without hats or jackets. They stated that they
had been up and had a row with the ' darkies,' and asked the five sailors to go up
and aid them. About a hundred persons were assembled, all of whom appeared
ready for an affray. The five sailors admit that they proceeded up the lane with
the multitude. A great noise was made, the crowd singing and shouting until
they came near the elm tree, when a gun was discharged and stones thrown from
the' vicinity of the houses occupied by the blacks. Stones were also thrown by
the crowd against the houses. Upon the firing of the gun, the main body of the
crowd retreated to the foot of the lane. The five sailors, however, continued up
the lane, and when nearly opposite the blacksmith's shop, another gun was dis
charged. William Henry, one of the five sailors, put his hand to his face and said
he was shot. George Erickson and William Hull joined their three comrades and
proceeded up the lane about a hundred feet to a passage leading from tfhe north
side of the lane to a lot in the rear. They saw three or four men, one of whom
Hull knew. The black standing on the steps with a gun, perceiving that they had
stopped, ordered them u to clear out," or he would fire upon them. The sailors told
the black "to fire and be damned." Two attempts to fire were made, a flash and
a snap ; upon the third, the gun went off.
George fell, mortally wounded, with a large shot in his breast. Wm. Hull and
John Phillips were wounded, but not dangerously. George died in about half an
hour, during which time Hull states that he could obtain no assistance from the
crowd below. Before he was removed and within half an hour of his death, as
Hull states, the crowd had increased to a large mob, and they proceeded up the
lane, and demolished two of the houses occupied by blacks, and broke the win
dows and some of the furniture of others.
On the 22d, the mob assembled at 7 o'clock; the sheriff arrested seven and com
mitted them to jail, but in three or four other instsnces the mob made a rescue.
Twenty-five soldiers of Capt. Shaw's company being ordered out, they were pelted
by the mob with some injury, and it being perceived that nothing short of firing
would have any other effect than to exasperate the mob, they marched off, and no
further attempt was made that night to quell the mob. On Friday morning it was
generally reported that an attempt would be made to break into the jail and rescue
the prisoners. A meeting of the state council was had, three infantry, one cav
alry and one artillery company ordered to be under arms. Four of the rioters
were liberated for want of evidence, and three bound over for trial, that the mob
might have no pretense to attack the jail. In the afternoon the following placard
was posted :
"NOTICE. — All persons ho are in favor of Liberating those Men ho are confined
within the walls of the Providence Jail are requested to make due preparation, and
govern themselves accordingly
N JB — No quarters Shone.''
Most of the evening from 30 to 50 collected in front of the jail, many threats
were uttered, and it was with difficulty that the mob could be made to believe that
all the prisoners had been discharged. Soon after, a man who had an instrument
under his arm, apparently a sword, appeared and ordered the mob to Snow Town,
whither they went, but did little damage.
On Saturday evening the mob again attacked one of these houses, throwing
stones and demolishing the windows. The sheriff, in a very loud voice, com
manded them to desist, but no attention was paid to him. The violence of the at
tack increased, so that it was supposed they had begun to tear the building down.
At this time the sheriff requested the governor to detach a portion of the force to
suppress the riot. The light dragoons and the first light infantry were accord
ingly ordered to march under the sheriff's direction.
20
308 RHODE ISLAND.
During this march, the stones were continually heard rattling against the mus
kets, and fell thick among the soldiers. As the troops approached the bridge, part
of the mob retired before them: some occupied the ground upon each flank, and
the sides of the bridge were filled. They slowly crossed the bridge, the sheriff
continually and earnestly repeating his request for the rioters to disperse, warn
ing them of their danger. The crowd immediately closed in upon their rear with
great clamor, throwing stones without cessation. After the detachment had gained
the street east of the bridge, the assaults upon them increased to so great a degree
of violence that the cavalry were forced against the infantry, and the rear platoon
of infantry nearly upon the front. The dragoons called out to the infantry that
they could not withstand the incessant shower of missiles; and unless the infantry
fired upon the rioters, it was impossible that they could remain. The cavalry Avere
without ammunition. The infantry also exclaimed that they could no longer sus
tain these dangerous volleys of stones, and if they were not permitted to defend
themselves, they felt they were sacrificed. The detachment halted in Smith street,
near its junction with North Main street, at the distance of about forty rods from
the residue of the military on the hill. The infantry faced about to present a front
to the assailants, and the light dragoons, who had been compelled to advance partly
along their flanks, filed past them, and formed upon the left.
After they halted, the stones were still hurled unremittingly. Many of the sol
diers were seriously injured. The stocks of several of the muskets were split by
the missiles. The air was filled with them. The sheriff, who was by the side of
the captain of the infantry during the whole march, repeatedly commanded the
mob to desist, but those orders were wholly unavailing. It having now become
manifest that no other means existed by which the riot could be suppressed, or
the lives of the men preserved, the sheriff directed the captain to fire. The cap
tain then gave the word, "ready."* Here a momentary pause took place. The
stones were still thrown with the greatest violence, and exclamations were vocife
rated, " Fire, and be d cZ." The captain turned to the sheriff and asked,
"Shallljire?" Perceiving that the crisis had at length arrived, and that the
danger was imminent, he replied, " Yes. you mustjire." The further orders were
then given, " Aim— fire." A discharge followed in a somewhat scattering manner,
in which four persons were killed. After the order was thus executed, a second
was immediately given to cease firing. The most perfect silence ensued, not a
sound was heard, and all violence instantly ceased. In about five minutes, it be
ing evident the mob was now quelled, the infantry assumed a new position in the
line on the east side of Main street, facing westwardly, with the cavalry on their
left.
At the moment these two companies passed the bridge on their march eastward,
the shouts were so violent, and the attacks upon them appeared so alarming, that
the governor, apprehensive for their safety, ordered the company of cadets to
march double quick time to their support. The firing of the infantry was heard
immediately after. The cadets were then moving down, but had not passed be
low the point where the governor with the artillery and volunteer companies re
mained. They however continued their march, crossed the bridge, and proceeded
down Canal street to Weybosset bridge, dispersing the mob before them. After
the firing ceased, information was brought to the governor that the multitude was
separating. Before leaving the hill, the governor requested Dr. Parsons, who was
with him^~to attend upon the wounded, and render them every possible assistance.
A few years later, in what was generally termed the " Dorr Insur
rection" (see page 299), this town and vicinity narrowly escaped
witnessing a more sanguinary scene.
uOn the 16th of May, 1843, Thos. W. Dorr entered Providence, escorted by a
party of his friends, about 1,300 in number, of whom 300 were in arms. When
arrived at his quarters, he issued his proclamation defying the power of those op
posed to him, and expressing his determination to maintain his claims to the last
extremity. About two o'clock, on the morning of the 18th of May, Dorr, at the
head of his adherents, made an attempt to obtain possession of the state arsenal.
RHODE ISLAND. 309
Having drawn up his troops on the plain, and planted his cannon, he sent a flag
of truce to the arsenal. Col. Blodget, who was in command, asked, " For whom,
and in whose name f " The answer was, " For Gov. Dorr, and in the name of Col.
Wheeler." He said he knew no such men, and if they attacked the arsenal, it
would be defended. When the flag returned, Dorr gave orders to fire ; but his gun
flashed three times. Ft is said that there was dissatisfaction in his ranks, and some
of his men had dampened the powder. Whatever was the cause, it was a merciful
dispensation, sparing probably the effusion of much human blood. Dorr then re
tired to his quarters, a house on a hill, guarded by men armed with muskets and
cannon. The military were now ordered out, with orders to arrest Dorr in the
name of Gov. King. The insurgents were intimidated, and after some persuasion
the most of them dispersed. The house was searched, but Dorr could not be
found. Most of the officers chosen by the suffrage party resigning their situations,
this difficulty ended without bloodshed.
On the 28th of June, 1S42, another disturbance took place, caused by the disa
greement between the charter and suffrage parties. The adherents of Dorr, about
700 in number, took possession of a hill in Chepachet, where they entrenched
themselves with five pieces of cannon. Martial law was proclaimed throughout
the state, and about 3,000 militia were ordered out to support the government.
The greater part of the insurgents left the camp in consequence of these prepa-
tions, and the hill was taken by the state troops without bloodshed. Dorr was
eventually tried for treason, and sentenced to hard labor during life, June 25,
1844. By an act of amnesty from the Legislature, he was liberated from prison,
June 27, 1845.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the
North burying ground in Providence :
Sacred to the memory of the illustrious STEPHEN HOPKINS of Revolutionary fame, attested
by his signature to the Declaration of our National Independence. Great in Council from
sagacity of mind, magnanimous in sentiment, firm in purpose, and good as great from be
nevolence of heart; he stood in the first rank of statesmen and Patriots. Self-educated, yet
among the most learned of men. His vast treasury of useful knowledge, his great retentive
and reflective powers, combined with his social nature, made him the most interesting com
panion of social life. His name is engraven on the immortal records of the Revolution,
and can never die. His titles to that distinction are engraved on this monument, reared
by the grateful admiration of his native state, in honor of her favorite son. Born March 7,
1707, died July 13, 1785.
In memory of the REV. JAMES MANNING, D.D. President of Rhode Island College. He
was born in New Jersey, A. D. 1738. Became a member of a Baptist Church, A. D. 1758.
Graduated at Nassau Hall, A. D. 1762, was ordained a Minister of the Gospel in 1763; ob
tained a charter for the college, A. D. 1765; was elected a President of it the same year,
and was a member of Congress, A. D. 1786. His person was graceful, and his countenance
remarkably expressive of sensibility, cheerfulness and dignity. The variety and excellence
of his natural abilities, improved by education, and enriched by science, raised him to emi
nence among literary characters. His manners were engaging, his voice harmonious, his
eloquence natural and powerful. His social virtues, classic learning, eminent patriotism,
shining talents for instructing and governing youth, and zeal in the cause of CHRISTIANITY
on the Tables of many hearts. He died of apoplexy, July 29, A. D. 1791. JEtat. 53. The
Trustees and Fellows of the College have erected this monument.
In memory of the HON. JOSEPH BROWN, Esquire, who departed this life Dec. 3, 1785, in
the 52d year of his age. In the course of his life, he was a Representative for the town of
Providence; an Assistant to the Governor in Council; a Trustee of Rhode Island College;
a Professor of Experimental Philosophy therein. A member of the American Academy of
Arts and Sciences, and of the Baptist Church here. He descended from a respectable line
of ancestors to which his characteradded.no inconsiderable luster. The faculties of his
mind were truly great and rare. By the mere force of Natural Genius, he became an adept
in electricity, and well versed in Experimental Philosophy; but his great strength appeared
in his favorite study, Mechanic*. Was a Patriot from principle, and zealous for his Coun
try's Freedom and Independence. In his life were exemplified Charity and Munificence pre
eminently with the virtues of an honest man.
In memory of NICHOLAS BROWN, Esq., who died May 29, A. D. 1791. uEtat. 62. He de-
310 RHODE ISLAND.
scended from respectable ancestors, who were some of the first settlers of this state. His
statue was large, his personal appearance manly and noble. His genius penetrating, his
memory tenacious, his judgment strong, his affections lively and warm. He was an early,
persevering, and liberal patron of the College in this town, and a member and great bene
factor to the Baptist Society. His donations for the support of learning and religion were
generous and abundant. His occupation was merchandise; in which, by industry, punc
tuality and success, he accumulated a large fortune. He was plain and sincere in his man
ners, a faithful friend, a good neighbor, and entertaining companion. His knowledge of
books and men, of business and of the world was great, and of the most useful kind. He
loved his country, and had an equal esteem of Liberty and good government. He had
deeply studied the Holy Scriptures, and was convinced of the great truths of Revelation.
He was a religious observer of the Sabbath, and of Public worship, and trained up his house
hold after him. He was a lover of all men, especially of the Ministers and Disciples of
Christ, who always received a friendly welcome under his hospitable roof. As in life he
was universally esteemed, so in death he was universally lamented.
In memory of the Revered STEPHEN GANG, Pastor of the First Baptist Church in Provi
dence, who departed this life Aug. 18, A. D. 1828, in the 42d year of his ministry, and 66th
of his age. As a Preacher, he was evangelical, devout and impressive : as a Pastor, faith
ful and vigilant, in the duties of private life exemplary. His sound judgment, mild and
conciliating manners, fidelity in friendship, integrity of heart, ardent and enlightened piety,
and indefatigable labors in the cause of Christianity have left an indelible impression on all
who knew him.
NICHOLAS COOKE, Born in Providence, Feb. 3, 1717. Died Sept. 14, 1782. Unanimously
elected governor of Rhode Island, in 1775. He remained in office during the darkest period
of the American Revolution. He merited and won the approbation of his fellow-citizens,
and was honored with the friendship and confidence of Washington.
Sacred to the memory of Col. JEREMIAH OLNEY, a patriot soldier of the Revolution, late
Collector of the Customs for the District of Providence, and President of the Society of
Cincinnati, of the State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations. He closed his hon
orable and useful life with Christian serenity, on the 10th day of Nov., 1812, in the 63d year
of his age. As a citizen, he was virtuous and public spirited. As an officer he was ardent,
judicious, and intrepid. The unqualified approbation of WASHINGTON, his immortal chief,
is a demonstration of his worth, which will transmit his name in the Annals of his country,
with reputation to Posterity. To his natural elevation of soul, was signally united the
purest Honor and Integrity from which no interest could swerve, no danger appal him.
His CONSCIENCE was his MONITOR. TRUTH and JUSTICE were his GUIDES. Hospitality and
Benevolence were conspicuous traits in his character, and his relatives and his friends will
cherish the remembrance of his virtues while •' memory holds a seat."
Sacred to the memory of EBENEZER KNIGHT DEXTER, Esq., who departed this life Aug. 10,
A. D. 1824, aged 51 years, having sustained, through life, the character of an upright man
and useful citizen. He was in death resigned to the will of that Adorable Being who gives
and receives again to himself the Spirit of man. The deceased received many tokens of
public confidence. For many years, and until his death, he sustained the office of Marshal
of the United States, for the Rhode Island District, and by a happy union of vigilance with
humanity in the discharge of his official duties, conciliated the esteem of the government
and of the public. His memory is endeared to the memory of his fellow-citizens, of this,
his native place, as well as by his many virtues as by the Munificent Donation of a large por
tion of his ample estate to the Town of Providence to constitute a Permanent Fund for the
comfortable and respectable support of the Unfortunate Poor. This fund, with other valua
ble property, will remain a lasting monument of his public Spirit and Benevolence.
The grave of NICHOLAS BROWN, an eminent merchant, the Friend of the friendless ; the
Patron of Learning ; the benefactor of the Insane, and the liberal supporter of every good
design. Born in Providence, April 4, 1769. Died Sept. 27, 1841, Aged 72 years, 6 mo. 2:1.
days. The blessing of him that was ready to perish came upon me, and I caused tin-
Widow's heart to sing for joy.
Vir integer innocens religioous. In boni civis officiis spectatus atque probatus cum in pau-
pertate levanda turn prsecipue in religione colenda beneficentise laude insignis ; De litteris
autem humanitatis que studiis unice meritus testis Universitas ipsius nomique appellata
quam cura singularise vere paterna alebat copiisque munifice instruxit.
To the memory of persons whose remains were removed from the Sheldon Burial Ground
in the South part of the city where 100 of them were mouldering without monuments t<>
RHODE ISLAND.
designate names, sex, or ages, and deposited in this enclosure July 1844. Erected by per
mission of the Honorable General Assembly of Rhode Island, by the advice of the Muni
cipal Court of the city of Providence.
The following inscription is copied from a neat and unpretending
monument in a small burying ground, about half a mile westward from
the North burying ground. Commodore Hopkins held the rank of
commander-in-chief of the American navy, a position corresponding
to that of Washington in the army :
This stone is consecrated to the memory of EZEK HOPKINS, Esq., who departed this life on
the 26th day of Feb., A. D. 1802. He was born in the year 1718, in Scituate in this State,
and during our Revolutionary War was appointed Admiral and Commander-in-chief of the
Naval forces of the United States. He was afterwards a member of the State Legislature,
and was no less distinguished for his deliberation, than for his valor. As he lived highly
respected, so lie died deeply regretted by his Country and his friends, at the advanced age
of 83 years and 10 months.
" Look next on Greatness, say where Greatness lies."
NEWPORT, the semi-capital of the state, and most fashionable water
ing place in New England, is beautifully situated, being built on a
gentle acclivity which rises gracefully from the water on the west side
of the Island of Rhode Island, about five miles from the ocean by the
ship channel; about 30 S. by E. from Providence; 70 from Boston,
and 165 from New York. Population about 11,000. The harbor is
considered one of the best on the American Coast, being safe, capa
cious, easy of access, and of sufficient depth for the largest ships. It
is defended by Forts Adams, Greene and some other fortifications.
Fort Adams, a work of great magnitude, is half mile S. W. of the city,
on a point projecting northwardly. It was commenced in 1814, and
up to the present time has cost the government about $2,000,000.
With the redoubt at the south, it will mount 468 guns, and garrison
3,000 men. Fort Greene is at the northern extremity of Washington
street. It was called North Battery until 1798, when the present
fort was built and named after Gen. Greene. On Goat Island are the
remains of Fort Wolcott, originally called Fort Ann. The public
buildings of the city are the State House, City Hall, Redwood
Library, 10 churches, a Jewish Synagogue, and eight hotels, four of
which are only opened during the summer, for the accommodation of
the crowds who resort here at that season.
The Island of Rhode Island is 15 miles in length and four in breadth, and
comprises the three towns of Newport, Middletown. and Portsmouth. The
settlement of the island commenced in 1637, at the N. E. part in Ports
mouth. Some of the settlers, with others who were to unite with them,
went to the south end the next spring, 1638, and began the settlement of
Newport. Of this beautiful island, Neal, an ancient writer says, "It is de
servedly esteemed the Paradise of New England, for the fruitfulness of the
soil, and the temperateness of the climate. Though it is not above 60 miles
S. of Boston, it is a coat warmer in winter; and being surrounded by the
ocean, is not so much affected in summer by the hot land breezes, as the
towns on the continent."
As a place of trade and commerce, previous to the American Revolution,
312
RHODE ISLAND.
Newport was highly distinguished. Having the advantage of a safe and
commodious harbor, never obstructed by ice, easy of ingress with all winds,
the people early turned their attention to navigation. " For one hundred
?'iid fifty years from the arrival of the first emigrants, Newport and Boston,
were the chief cities of New England, and their commerce rendered each of
them superior to New York. Several of the first settlers on the island were
possessed of great wealth ; some of them were from the commercial cities of
South-western view of Newport.
The view shows Newport, as it appears from the hights southerly from the town near the road to Fort
Adams. The " Ocean House," on the summit of the elevated ground, is seen on the extreme right; the
Atlantic near the central part ; the harbor and landing places on the left.
Europe, and others from Massachusetts. Many who came here to reside,
were learned and refined, and the society of the place was literary and polite,
giving tone to that of the surrounding country, who looked to Newport for
their fashions and manners. Previous to the Revolution the prosperity of
the town was almost unequaled. Her streets were thronged with the intel
ligent and enterprising of distant lands, and the canvas of different nations
whitened her capacious and delightful harbor." From 1730 to the Revolu
tion, Newport was at the hight^of its prosperity; New York, New Haven,
and New London greatly depended upon it for their foreign supplies. It was
said, at that era, that possibly New York might in time equal Newport! — such
was the commercial superiority of Newport over the now giant city of the
New World.
A writer in Harper's Magazine has given some vivid sketches upon
the history of Newport. During the era of its greatest prosperity
the slave-trade was extensively carried on. He says :
At this time, 1730-50, the trade of Newport was very extensive. There were
thirty distilleries constantly at work, and the rum was exported to Africa, and
procured the slaves there. There were not less than forty or fifty vessels engaged
in this traffic, and their owners were the leading merchants of Newport. The
junkers of whom there were many in the town, did not scruple to own them. Jo
seph Jacobs, an opulent old Newporter of that persuasion, had several slaves, who
"wore the plain garb of the Quakers." And a recent historian of Newport, Mr.
Peterson, who has amassed a curious collection of historical facts, declares that.
RHODE ISLAND.
"to see the negro women, with their black hoods and blue aprons, walking at a
respectful distance behind their master to meeting, was not an unpleasant sight!"
Joseph Jacobs was the only possessor of a thermometer upon the island; and so
precise was his punctuality, that the neighbors were wont to set their clocks and
watches as he passed by to meeting, without speaking to him.
Godfrey and John Malbone were among the chief Newport merchants of this
period. The elder, Godfrey, settled in the town about the year 1700; he engaged
in successful enterprises, and fitted out privateers in 1740, during the French and
Spanish war. A rough, bold, sea-faring man, ready to trade in slaves or ruin, and
to send privateers to the Spanish main, he is undoubtedly a good type of the New
port merchant of that period. There were two hundred vessels in the foreign
trade, three or four hundred coasting vessels, and a regular line of London pack
ets. Between two and three thousand seamen thronged the docks, which extended
a mile along the harbor. There was no storage sufficient for the accumulating
riches. The harvests and produce of the East and West Indies piled the wharves.
Crates of bananas, of oranges, of all the southern fruits, lay in the yards of the
houses, with turtle from the Bahamas, waiting to be cooked. Col. Gibbs, one of
the chief merchants, had a negro cook, Cudjo, who prepared his master's dinners,
and was loaned to the lesser neighbors upon their state occasions. He educated
a family of cooks in Col. Gibb's kitchen, and the epicures from every quarter were
the debtors of Cudjo.
At a period a little later than this, and probably of Cudjo himself, the celebrated
Dr. Channing, who was born in Newport, says, "When 1 was young the luxury
of eating was carried to the greatest excess in Newport. My first notion, indeed,
of glory was attached to an old black cook, who I saw to be the most important per
sonage in town. He belonged to the household of my uncle, and was of great de
mand wherever there was to be a dinner." Seventeen manufactories of sperm-oil
and candles worked with such success, that Crevecoeur says "they make sperma-
cetti candles better that wax."
Noble mansions, spacious and elaborate gardens, arose and adorned the island
and the town. The country-house of Col. Godfrey Malbone, which was com
menced in 1744, was famous as the finest residence in the colonies. It was built
of stone, two stories high, with a circular stair-case leading to the cupalo, the cost
of which was reputed to be equal to that of an ordinary dwelling-house. The
house was within a mile of Newport, and the farm of six hundred acres sloped
gently toward the bay. According to tradition, this garden was elaborately laid
out; ranges of banks and terraces alternated with plots of flowers, and hedges of
shrubbery, and groups of rare trees; silver and gold-fish swam in artificial ponds;
while over this mingled beauty the eye swept across the bay to the blue line of the
opposite shore, or saw the sea flashing over the rocks and cliffs at the entrance of
the harbor.
Here met a society not unworthy so fair a palace of pleasure, if tradition may
be believed. The wealthy and cultivated society of Newport seems in those days
to have been acknowledged as an aristocracy. The social lines were sharply
drawn. As in provincial towns the rigor of etiquette is more exacting than in the
metropolis, so in the colony it is always more observable than in the mother coun
try. The courtly rector of Trinity alluded from the pulpit to " those who moved
in the higher spheres."
Vaucluse, the residence of Samuel Elam, now of Thos. R Hazard, was another
of the fine places of that day. It is situated upon the eastern side of the island,
about five miles from the town, and is the only estate remaining which has still
some savor of its past prosperity. The entertainments at both these places, no less
than those of the Overings, Bannisters, and the gentlemen of the Narraganset
shore opposite, are remembered as magnificent. It was the broad English style
of hospitality, abundant, loud, and, doubtless, a little coarse and rude. Prodigious
oaths echoed probably along the stately halls of the Malbones, and choice wines
flowed at the dinners of Vaucluse. The story of the destruction of the Malbone
house, illustrates the spirit of the time. It had cost a hundred thousand dollars,
which was not a small sum of money in a time and place where a man lived well
upon five hundred dollars a year. But in the year 1766, as the slaves were cook-
314 RHODE ISLAND
ing a dinner — to which Col. Malbone had bidden the best company of the island —
the wood-work around the kitchen chimney took fire, and, although the house was
of stone, the flames soon had possession. Romance now takes up the foot,
and proceeding in a strain accordant with the style of the man and his life, relates
that Col. Malbone, seeing the inevitable destruction, declared that if he must lose
his house, he would not lose his dinner; and, as it was early summer, ordered the
feast to be spread upon the lawn, where he and his guests ate their dinner by the
light of the burning house.
The society of the Narraganset shore opposite was not less distinguished, and
was in constant intercourse with that of the island. Capable tutors and accom
plished clergymen were the teachers of the boys who afterward graduated at Har
vard or Yale, and there were good schools for the girls in Boston. The constant
presence in the island of intelligent strangers, at once piqued and gratified natural
curiosity, and thus, without traveling, the inhabitants of Newport enjoyed the ben
efits of travel. Many of the leading men upon both sides of the bay had large and
>7aluable libraries, and the collection in the Redwood Library was rich in many
departments.
To these prosperous days in Newport history, belongs the career of Ezra
Stiles, D.D., afterward president of Yale College, who resided in the town,
as the pastor of the second Congregational Church, for about 20 years prior to
the Revolution. Dr. Channing, in speaking of him, says: "In rny earliest
years, I regarded no other human being with equal reverence." Dr. Samuel
Hopkins, the founder of the HopJcinsian school of orthodoxy, also resided
in the place. His memory has of late been revived through his introduction
in Mrs. Stowe's story of New England life, "The Minister's Wooing:"
He settled in Newport in 1769, and with Puritan sternness, and natural intel
lectual independence, sought " to reconcile Calvinism with its essential truths."
"Other Calvinists were willing that their neighbors should be predestined to ever
lasting misery for the glory of God. This noble-minded man demanded a more
generous and impartial virtue, and maintained that we should consent to our own
perdition, if the greatest good of the universe, and the manifestation of the
Divine perfections, should so require." This doctrine was not altogether agree
able to the Newporters, and a meeting of his society discussed the doctor's preach
ing, and finally resolved to intimate to him their willingness that he should leave.
But when, upon the next Sunday, he preached a farewell sermon, the parish were
so interested and impressed that they entreated him to remain. "His name is asso
ciated with a stern and appalling theology," but he preserved the old Puritan tra
ditions, and represented the severe and indomitable spirit of the early New Eng
land clergy. A profound student, he was sometimes engaged for eighteen hours of
the day with his studies, and died, in Newport, an honored and good man, in De
cember, 1803.
On the breaking out of the Revolution, great numbers of the inhabitants
left the island; and during the summer and fall of 1776, Newport remained
in a distressed state, and without defense, except a few guns at Brenton's
Point. The British fleet arrived, and the troops took possession of the town
and remained three years. Before leaving, they destroyed 480 buildings of
various kinds, cut down all the ornamental and fruit trees, broke up nearly
all the wharves, and the places of worship, with two exceptions, were used as
stables and riding-schools. The church bells, with one exception — a present
from Queen Anne — the machinery from the distilleries, and the town records,
were carried to New York; and when they left the place, the wells were filled
up, and as much property destroyed as possible, by order of the British com
mander. The army quartered on the town numbered 8,000 British and Hes
sians. It was evacuated by the enemy in 1779. At that time the inhabit
ants were reduced from 12,000 to 4,000.
RHODE ISLAND.
315
The business of Newport revived somewhat during the wars in Europe,
but was again nearly extinguished by the embargo which preceded the war
of 1812. Since the application of steam to machinery, a number of large
cotton and woolen mills have been established, which, with other manufac
turing establishments, have of late years given quite an impulse to the pros
perity of the place. The situation of Newport gives to it the advantage of a
cool, refreshing sea-breeze from almost every point of the compass : so that dur
ing the hot months, it has long been a favorite place of fashionable resort, espe
cially for visitors from the south. Within a few years a number of large and
splendid hotels have been erected, affording the best of accommodations. The
place is also rendered attractive by its splendid beaches, adapted in the high
est degree to the luxury of surf-bathing; its abundant means of enjoyment
for those who are fond of sailing or fishing, the many beautiful rides over
the island, in the rear of the town, and the objects of historic interest in the
place and vicinity.
State House, Newport.
The state-house is situated on Washington square, and in the en
graving a representation is given of its front, facing the parade, which
is the principal entrance. It is built of brick and has elevated flights
of steps on the north, south and west sides. From these steps the
late Maj. John Handy read the Declaration of Independence, on the
20th of July, 1776; and at the expiration of fifty years he read it
again from the same place, on which occasion the steps and balcony
above were decorated with flowers. The state-house was used as a
hospital, in succession, by the British and French troops. After the
glass was destroyed, the windows were battened up, leaving only a
small opening with a slide for air ; and in the lower room, against the
south? door, the French erected an altar, where the services of the
Catholic Church were performed for the sick and dying. The last time
Washington visited Newport, a dinner was given him in honor of the
occasion, and the table was spread the entire length of the lower floor.
316
RHODE ISLAND.
The building of the Redwood Library and Atheneum, completed in
1750, is a handsome specimen of architecture, consisting of a center
structure, with two small wings. It appears to have originated in a
literary and philosophical society, which was established in Newport
in 1730, and of which the celebrated Bishop Berkeley, who resided in
Rhode Island, encouraged the formation, " often participating in its
discussions, and, by the charm of his conversation, giving a delightful
interest to its meetings." Names of some of the leading men in the
history of Rhode Island, are connected with this library. Rev. Dr.
Stiles, afterward president of Yale College, while pastor of a Congre
gational society in Newport, soon after his settlement in 1755, was
appointed librarian. Within its quiet walls he spent much of his time,
and through his instrumentality the collection was greatly enlarged.
The library contains many old and valuable books that are now com
paratively scarce ; but many of the finest works were carried off by
the British troops when they left the island. The present number of
volumes is upward of 6,000.
Anciently a considerable body of Jews resided in Newport. The
first emigrants were of Dutch extraction, from Curacoa. The deed
of their burying ground is dated
Feb. 28, 1677. They were not
possessed of the wealth and en
terprise which so eminently dis
tinguished those who came af
terward. Between the years
1750 and 1760, many families of
wealth and distinction, from
Spain and Portugal, settled in
Newport, and contributed large
ly to the commercial prosperity
of the town. The synagogue,
of which the annexed is a rep-
IIII11I1IW resentation, was built by these
emigrants in 1762 : it was once
thronged with worshipers, and
"Newport was the only place in
New England where the Hebrew
language was publicly read and
chanted by more than three hundred of the descendants of Abraham.'7
Abraham Touro left $20,000 in charge of the town authorities, the
interest to be expended in keeping the synagogue and grounds, and
the street leading to it, in good repair, and the wishes of the donor
have been carefully complied with. The following inscription appears
over the granite gateway: "Erected 5603, by a bequest made by
Abraham Touro, Esq."
"About 1763, and long after, flourished the distinguished families of Lopez,
Rivera, Pollock, Levi, Hart, Seixas, and their late respected priest, Isaac Touro.
The north side of what is now the Mall, was once covered with Jewish residences,
JEWISH SYNAGOGUE, NEWPORT.
RHODE ISLAND. 317
which were destroyed by fire. The Revolutionary War, so disastrous to tho com
mercial interest and prosperity of Newport, induced the greater part of them to
leave the town . and after the conclusion of the war, the remnant that was left
gradually declined, until not an individual now remains. Moses Lopez, nephew
of the celebrated Aaron Lopez, was the last resident Jew in Newport. A few
years previous to his death, he removed to New York; his remains were brought
to Newport, and interred by the side of his brother Jacob, in the burial place of
their fathers. Moses Lopez was a man of no common abilities; he was an honor
able merchant, deeply versed in mathematics, and of uncommon mechanical skill.
He was pleasant and interesting in conversation, and an ingenious defender of
his religious belief. The Society of Jews, generally, who settled in this town, have
left a reputation for integrity and uprightness, which should perpetuate their
memory from generation to generation.
After the long interval of 60 years, in which the synagogue had been closed, in
the year 1850 it was thrown open again, and services were performed on Saturday
(the Jewish Sabbath), by an eminent liabbi from New York. It was an impor
tant era, and calculated to revive in the mind the great and important events,
which had taken place in the history of this distinguished people."
During the Revolutionary Avar, Newport, though for some time in
possession of the enemy, furnished a number of distinguished naval
commanders, and a greater number of sailors, perhaps, than any other
town of its size in the country. It is supposed that she contributed a
thousand men for the naval service in that war, and that one half of
these fell into the hands of the enemy, and mostly perished on board
of prison ships. On the 10th of July, 1780, the French fleet of seven
sail-of-the-line and five frigates, with a large number of transports and
an army of 6,000, arrived at Newport, to the great joy of the inhabit
ants. The fleet was commanded by the Chevalier de Tourney, and the
army by Count de Rochambeau. The town was illuminated, and com
plimentary addresses were made by a committee of the general assem
bly, then in session, to both of the French commanders. The follow
ing is from Peterson's History of Rhode Island:
Admiral de Tourney died soon after his arrival at Newport, and was buried with
military honors, in Trinity church-yard, where a slab was afterward erected to his
memory, on the north side of the church. The funeral procession is said to have
been grand and imposing, extending from his residence on the Point, at the Hunter
House, to the church-yard, one dense mass of living beings, with the bands of mu
sic from the fleet, playing the most solemn strains, was a scene of deep interest to
contemplate.
In March, 1781, General Washington, the savior of his country, arrived at New
port. He passed over from the main by Canonicut Ferry, and landed from his
barge at the head of Long Wharf. As he passed, the French fleet, lying at the
back of the fort, fired a salute, and the army was drawn up in order for his recep
tion at the Long Wharf. Washington, the immortal Commander-in-chief of the
French and American armies, never appeared to greater advantage than when he
passed over to Newport to review the French forces under Count Rochambeau.
He was received at the head of Long Wharf by the French officers, at the head of
7,000 men, who lined the streets from thence to the state-house.
"1 never," says a bystander now living, "felt the solid earth tremble under me
before. The firing from the French ships that lined the harbor, was tremendous;
it was one continued roar, and looked as though the very bay was on fire. Wash
ington, as you know, was a Marshal of France; he could not command the French
army without being invested with that title. He wore, on this day, the insignia of
his office, and was received with all the honors due to one in that capacity. It is
known that many of the flower of the French nobility were numbered in the army
that acted in our defense. Never," said the aged narrator, "will that scene bo
318 RHODE ISLAND.
erased from my memory. The attitudes of the nobles, their deep obeisance, the
lifting of hats and caps, the waving of standards, the sea of plumes, the long line
of French soldiers and the general disposition of their arms, unique to us, separ
ating to the right and left, the chief, with Count Rochambeau on his left, unbon-
neted, walked through. The French nobles, commanders, and their under officers,
followed in the rear. Count Rochambeau was a small, keen-looking man, not
handsome, as was his son, afterward governor of Martinique. Count Noailles
looked like what he was — a great man. But the resplendent beauty of the two
Viosminels eclipsed all the rest. They were brothers, and one of them a general
in the army, who bore the title of Count, too. Newport never saw anything so
handsome as these two young brothers.
"But we, the populace, were the only ones that looked at them, for the eye of
every Frenchman was directed to Washington. Calm and unmoved by all the
honors that surrounded him, the voice of adulation nor the din of battle had ever
disturbed the equanimity of his deportment. Ever dignified, he wore on this day
the same saint-like expression that always characterized him. They proceeded
from the state-house to the lodgings of Count Rochambeau, the present residence
of the heirs of the late Samuel Verner, corner of Clark and Mary streets. It was
a proud day for Newport, to be honored with the presence of Washington, a name
dear to every American heart."
"In the evening," says the writer in Harper, previously quoted, "the town was
illuminated, and the officers, escorted by a large number of citizens, and preceded
by thirty boys, bearing torches, marched through the streets. Upon returning to
the house, Washington carefully thanked the boys for their services. It was his
first interview with the French officers, and it is supposed that in the Vrernon
House, he sketched, with Rochambeau, the plan of an attack upon New York.
"Associated with this visit of Washington, the name of one of the belles of those
days has attained a greater immortality than even French courtesy had secured.
This was the beautiful Miss Chaplin, a Newport maiden famed no less for her
charm of manner than her lovely person. During Washington's visit the citizens
of the town gave a ball in honor of the event to the Commander-in-chief and his
French host, in the assembly room in Church-street. The general was summoned
to open the ball, and he selected Miss Chaplin for his partner, and requested her
to name the dance. She chose "A successful Campaign," a dance then in the
highest favor. As Washington led out his partner upon the floor, the French of
ficers, with the most graceful courtesy, took the instruments from the hands of the
musicians, and played while the couple stepped through the minuet."
The Round Toiuer, or " Old Stone Mill," as it is usually called,
stands in an open lot, adorned with walks and shade trees, on the sum
mit of the elevation on which
Newport is built. This structure
is about 25 feet high, with a di
ameter of 23 feet. It is circular
in shape, and is supported upon
eight arches resting on thick col
umns about 10 feet high, on a
foundation of four or five feet.
The stones of which it is con-
KOUKD TOWER. structed are quite small, irregular
in form, and strongly cemented
together by a mortar composed of shell, lime, sand, and gravel. The
roof and fixtures, if it ever had any, were of perishable materials, for
the interior is open to the sky. It is supposed by some that it was
built by the Northmen, who visited the shores of this country about
the year 1000 of the Christian era. Others infer it was erected by
RHODE ISLAND.
319
Gov. Arnold, the first charter governor of the colony, as he makes
mention of it in his will, calling it "my stone built Wind Mill." The
origin and purposes for which this structure was erected, have occa
sioned much speculation, and they are points which still remain unde
cided. Yet if it was standing at the first settlement of the place, it is
an unaccountable fact that the earliest settlers should make no men
tion of it, although several of them kept diaries.
The Jewish cemetery, a small inclosure situated a short distance
from the synagogue in Touro street, is quite an ornament to that part
of the city. It has a massive granite
gateway, and a high iron fence, erected in
1843, by the order of the late Judah Touro,
Esq., of New Orleans, at an expense of
about $12,000. Mr. Touro was a native
of Newport, and has generously remem
bered his native city by large donations to
various objects of public utility. Within
the inclosure are the graves of his parents
and other members of his family. Mr.
Touro died in 1854, and his remains were
brought to Newport and interred by the
side of his relatives. The annexed en
graving is a representation of the monu
ment erected to his memory, on which is
the following inscription :
TOUKO MONUMEltT.
To the memory of JUDAH TOURO, born Newport, R.
I., June 16, 1775. Died, New Orleans, Jan. 18, 1854.
Interred here June 6. The last of his name he inscribed
in the book of PHILANTHROPY, to be remembered for
ever.
The following inscription is from a monument in the same inclosure :
In memory of the Rev. ISAAC TOURO, the able and faithful minister of the Congregation
Yeshnat Israel, in Newport, R. I., who departed this life on the 14th of Tebet. A. M. 5544,
and December 8th, MDCCLXXXIII, at Kingston, Jamaica, where his remains lie buried.
^E. 46 years. The memory of the just is blessed.
White Hall, a building about three miles from the state house, in
Newport, now in the town of Middletown, is a place of interest to the
antiquarian. It was built by the celebrated Dean Berkeley, for his
residence on his farm of about 100 acres, which he purchased here.
The dean arrived at Newport in Sept. 1729, and continued here
about two years. His original destination was the Island of Bermu
da, where, with his associates, he intended to found a college for the
education of Indian youth of this country. The captain of the ship
in which they sailed, unable to find Bermuda, steered northward, when
he fell in with Block Island. Learning there that an Episcopal
Church was in Newport, of which Mr. Honeymoon was the minister,
he concluded to visit the place.
320
RHODE ISLAND.
Berkeley was so charmed with Rhode Island, that he determined to
make it his residence: in writing to his friends, he speaks of it as
" pleasantly laid out in hills and vales, and rising grounds, and hath
plenty of excellent springs and fine rivulets, and many delightful
landscapes of rocks and promontories and adjacent lands." He was
described " as a gentleman of middle stature, of an agreeable, pleas
ant, and erect aspect." u His preaching was eloquent and forcible,
and attracted large congregations to Trinity Church. When he was
called to a sphere of greater usefulness in his native country, he was
not forgetful of a residence wrhich was endeared to him by many
pleasing recollections ; and which, moreover, possessed for him a
melancholy interest, from the circumstance of its containing the
ashes of his infant daughters, who died during' his sojourn in New
port."
White Hall.
In 1733, after his return to England, he sent a magnificent organ
as a donation to Trinity Church. The White Hall estate, with a con
siderable portion of his library, he gave to Yale College in Connecti
cut. The White Hall estate, when it came into. possession of the col
lege, was sold on a lease of 990 years, at a rent of 100 ounces of sil
ver per annum. During the dean's resictence at White Hall, he wrote
his " Minute Philosopher" and his celebrated poem so oracular as to
the future destinies of America; the last verse of which has become
so famous:
(< Westward the course of Empire tctJces its toay,
The first four acts already past ;
A fifth shall close the drama with the day,
Time's noblest offspring is the last."
" These were principally written at a place about half a mile south
of his house. .There he had his chair and writing apparatus placed
in a natural alcove, which he found in the most elevated part of the
Hanging Rocks, so called, roofed and opened only to the south, com
manding at once a view of Sachuest Beach, the ocean and the circum
jacent islands."
RHODE ISLAND. 321
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the ceme
tery at the north part of the city : that of Commodore Perry, is on a
granite shaft erected by the state, in an inclosure adjoining the princi
pal graveyard. Three of his sons are interred by his side: (p. 1011.)
OLIVER HAZARD PERRY, at the age of 27 years, achieved the victory of Lake Erie, Sept.
10, 1813. Born in South Kingston, R. I., Aug. 23, 1785. Died at Port Spain, Trinidad,
Aug. 23, 1819, aged 34 years. His remains were conveyed to his native land in a ship-of-
war, according to a resolution of Congress ; and were here interred Dec. 4, 1826. Erected
by the State of Rhode Island.
Dum euro vigilo. Here lieth the body of SAMUEL CRANSTON, Esq., late governor of this
Colony, aged 68 years. Departed this life April ye 26th, A. D. 1727. He was the son of
John Cranston, Esq., who was governor here 1680. He was descended from the Noble
Scottish Lord Cranston, and carried in his veins a stream of the ancient Earls of Crawford,
Bothwell, and Traquairs. Having for his Grandfather James Cranston Clerk, Chaplain to
King Charles the First. His Great-Grandfather was John Cranston, of Poole, Esq. This
last was son of John Cranston, Esq., which James was son to William, Lord Cranston.
Rest happy now, brave patriot, without end,
Thy country's father, and thy country's friend.
This monument is erected to the memory of the Hon. RICHARD WARD, Esq., late Governor
of this Colony. He was early in life employed in the public service, and for several years
sustained some of the most important offices in the Colony with great ability and reputa
tion. He was a member of the Sabbatarian Church in this Town, and adorned the doctrines
of his Savior, by a sincere and steady practice of the various duties of life. He died on the
21st day of Aug. 1763, in the 74th year of his age.
In memory of Doct. WILLIAM FLETCHER, who died March 9th, A. D. 1788. JEtat. 42. He
was born in England, Cartmel Parish and County Palatine, of Lancaster. For three years
before his death, he resided in this city, where he acquitted himself in the various duties of
his profession, with honor and integrity. He lived the life of a gentleman, and died like a
Philosopher.
Here are deposited the remains of CHRISTOPHER CHAPLIN, Esq., President of the Bank of
Rhode Island, and the First Grand Master of the Masonic Fraternity in this State, who
died on the 25th day of April, 1805, in the 75th year of his age. Unambitious of public em
ployments and honors, he was respected in Society for his good sense, and incorruptible in
tegrity, and persevering industry in commercial pursuits, in which he was usefully engaged
for half a century. Distinguished by the practice of all the virtues that render valuable the
nearest relations of life. He was most tenderly beloved by his family. In his last illness
he manifested his firm belief in the Christian Religion, which he had always cherished, and
he expired full of hopes grounded on its promises.
Here lies a Christian Minister, sacred to whose memory the Congregation, late his Pas
toral Charge, erected this monument, a testimonial to Posterity, of their respect for the
amiable character of the Rev'd. JAMES SEARING, who was born at Hcmpstead, on Long Is
land, Sept. XXIII, MDCCIX. Received a liberal education at Yale College; ordained
to the pastoral charge of the church and Society meeting in Clarke street, Newport, April
XXI, MDCCXXXI, where he served in the Christian Ministry XXIV years, and died Jan.
VI, MDCCLV. J&t&t. L. He entertained a rational veneration for the Most High, whom
he constantly regarded as the Father of the Universe; the wise governor and benevolent
Friend of the Creation. He was a steady Advocate for the Redeemer and his Holy Reli
gion. His contempt of Bigotry, his extensive Charity and Benevolence, and exemplary
goodness of life, justly endeared him to his Flock, and gained him that general acceptance
and Esteem which perpetuate his memory with deserved Reputation and Honor.
This monumental marble is erected to the memory of the Hon. CONSTANT TABER, who de
parted this transitory life Dec. 20, 1826, aged 83 years. During a protracted life he sus
tained an unblemished character, and was justly esteemed by all his fellow-citizens, who
frequently elected him to important offices, the duties of which he uniformly discharged
with scrupulous fidelity . . . When the Newport Bank was established in 1803, he was elected
President, which office he sustained till his death. He was a steady and devoted friend to
the 2d Baptist Society in this town, to which he bequeathed the most of his valuable
322 RHODE ISLAND.
property, except a few legacies to charitable purposes. "An honest man's the noblest work
of God."
The first of the following inscriptions is from a large slab of Egyptian
marble, placed by the side of Trinity Church. It was designed for the in
terior of the church, but no suitable place could be found within its walls.
The monument of Mr. Clark, the inscription on which is given, is in the
burying ground on the west side of Tanner street.
D. 0. M. CAROLUS LUDOVICUS D'ARSAC DE TERNAY, ordinis sa Hierosolymitani Eques,
nonclum vota Professus a vetere et nobili genere apud Armoricus oriundos anus e Regmrum
classium pnefectis LIVIS, MILKS IMPERATOR, de Rege Suo, et Patria,per 42 annos bene meri-
tus, hoc submamore JACET FELICITER AUDAX naves Regias post Croisiacam cladem perinvios
viCENONijE fluvii anfractus disjectas e coecis voraginibus improbo abore annis 1760, 1761
inter teta hostium detrusit avellit et stationibis suis restitiut incolumes anno 1762, TEKRAM
NOVAM in AMERICA invasit Anno 1772, renunciatus PR.ETOR ad regendas. BORRONIAM et
FRANCIJS insulas in GALLIA commoda totus incubuit. F^EDERATIS ORDINIBUS pro libertate
dimicantibus A REGE CHRISTIANISSIMO missus subsidis anno 1780. RHODUM INSULAM occu-
pavit ; Dum ad nova se accingsebat pericula. IN HAG URBE, inter FJEDERATORUM ORDINUM
ramenta et desideria, mortem obiit graven bonis omnibus et luetuosam suis die 15th X oris
M. D. CCLXXX, annos 58. REX CHRISTIANISSIMUS, severissimus virtutis judex ut clarissimi
viri memoria posterati consecratur, hoc momentum proneuclum jussit MDCCLXXXIII.
To the memory of Doctor John Clarke, one of the original purchasers and Proprietors of
this Island, and one of the Founders of the first Baptist Church in Newport, its first Pastor
and munificent benefactor. He died on the 20th of April 1676, in the 66th year of his age,
and is here interred. This monument was erected by his Trustees.
Bristol, the shire town of Bristol county, is the ancient Pocanoket
of the Indians. It is beautifully situated on a peninsula extending
south into Narraganset Bay, equi-distant from Providence and New
port, being 15 miles from each. The population of the town is about
5000, and it has a good harbor and considerable commerce. The vil
lage is one of the most beautiful in New England, standing on a slope
of ground gently rising from the bay, ornamented with fine shade
trees and interspersed with highly cultivated gardens. It is a favorite
place of retirement for persons of wealth, and has always been noted
for the elegance of its society. Bristol was settled in 1680. It suf
fered much in the revolution; in 1775, it was bombarded by a British
squadron, and in 1778, the meeting house and all the most valuable
dwellings were burnt.
About two miles northeast from the court house is Mount Ifope,
distinguished as once being the residence of the celebrated King
Philip, and the place where this unfortunate chieftain was killed,
August 12, 1676. It is the highest land in this section of the country,
being about 200 feet high. The following, relative to Philip's death,
is from ffoyt's Indian Wars: —
Meanwhile the war continued in the southeast quarter of New England, under
the desperate Philip; but the gallant Church and other officers gave him little
rest. He was hunted and driven from his covert places, his chief men, wife and
children killed or captured, but he still continued firm, and secreting himself with
a small force in the recesses of deep swamps, refused to submit. At length an
Indian, whose brother had been shot by Philip for urging him to make peace,
brought intelligence to Captain Church, who was in Rhode Island, that the chief
was in a swamp in Mount Hope neck, and Church immediately resolved to try his
skill upon him. With a small company of English, and a number of friendly In
dians, accompanied by several volunteer officers, he passed over to the main, and
RHODE ISLAND 323
conducted by the Indian who brought the intelligence, soon reached the swamp, in
which Philip was posted, with a considerable force; but darkness had now com
menced. Perfectly acquainted with the ground, Church formed his men in ex
tended order, placing an Englishmen and an Indian together, with orders to fire
upon any who should attempt to escape from the swamp. Captain Gold ing, with a
party, was to penetrate the swamp, and rouse Philip at the dawn of day. Having
made this disposition of his troops, Church was giving further orders, when a shot
whistled over his head, followed immediately after by a whole volley from Gold-
intr's party, on an advanced guard of the enemy, posted in the margin of the
swamp. Day had now dawned, and Philip, on the report of the guns, seized his
pettmk, powder horn and gun, left the swamp, and ran toward two of Church's in
closing chain of men. An Englishman leveled his piece against him, but it missed
fire ; his accompanying Indian, more fortunate, wrth a quick sight, sent two balls
through the body of the chief, one piercing his heart, which laid him dead upon
the spot. The important intelligence was immediately communicated to Church,
but he kept it to himself, intending to make it known after the remaining enemy
were driven from their cover. A terrific voice immediately thundered from the
swamp, lootash! lootash ! It was from Annawon, Philip's chief captain, calling
to his men to maintain their ground. The English then rushed into the swamp,
and charging closely, threw the Indians into confusion; Annawon, with about
sixty of his followers, made their escape, but one hundred and thirty were killed
and captured. After the affair was over, Church communicated to his troops the
death of Philip, and repaired to the spot where he lay. He had fallen upon his
face in a muddy spot of ground, from which he was drawn, the head taken off, and
the body left to be devoured by wild beasts. Thus fell this great chief, in a strug
gle, which, had it been in favor of a civilized people, by a civilized commander,
and attended with success, would have immortalized his name.
Mount Hope, near Bristol.
The view shows the appearance of Mount Hope, as seen from Mount Hope Bay, some six miles south
from Fall River, Massachusetts.
The most terrible and important conflict with the Indians in New
England, took place in South Kingston, R. I. "Upon a small island,
in an immense swamp, Philip," says Mr. Drake, in his History of the
Indians, " had fortified himself, in a manner superior to what is com
mon to his countrymen. Here he intended to pass the winter with
the chief of his friends. They had erected about 500 wigwams of a
superior construction, in which was deposited a great store of provi
sions. Baskets and tubs of corn were piled, one upon another, about
the inside of them, rendering them bullet proof. It is supposed that
about 3000 persons had here taken up their residence." The island
above mentioned is now an upland meadow of some three or four
acres, a few feet above the low meadow by which it is surrounded.
21
324 RHODE ISLAND.
Water still surrounds it in wet seasons. It was cleared for cultivation
about 1780 ; charred corn and Indian implements are still plowed up.
Lest Philip should increase his power, by an alliance with the Narraganset In
dians, the English had made a friendly treaty with them in July, 1675. Hut not
withstanding this, in December of the same year, it was discovered that they were
secretly aiding Philip's party. This determined the English to undertake a winter
expedition against them. For this object, the colony of Massachusetts furnished
five hundred and twenty-seven men, Plymouth one hundred and fifty-nine, and
Connecticut three hundred; to all these were attached one hundred and fifty Mo-
hegan Indians. After electing Josiah Winslow, governor of Plymouth colony, to
be their commander, the whole party met at Pettyquamsquot. About sixteen miles
from this place, it was found that the Narragansets had built a strong fort in the
midst of a large swamp, upon a piece of dry land of about five or six acres. The
fort was a circle of pallisadoes surrounded by a fence of trees, which was about
one rod thick.
On the 19th of December, 1675, at dawn of day, the English took up their march
through a deep snow, and at four o'clock in the afternoon attacked the Indians in
their fortress. The only entrance which appeared practicable was over a log, or
tree, which lay up five or six feet from the ground, and this opening was com
manded by a sort of a block house in front. The Massachusetts men, led on by
their captains, first rushed into the fort, but the enemy, from the block house and
other places, opened so furious a fire upon them, that they were obliged to retreat.
Many men were killed in this assault, and among them Captains Johnson and Da
venport. The whole army then made a united onset. The conflict was terrible.
Some of the bravest captains fell, and victory seemed very doubtful. At this crisis
some of the Connecticut men ran to the opposite side of the fort, where there were
no pallisadoes ; they sprang in, and opened a brisk and well directed fire upon the
backs of the enemy. This decided the contest. The Indians were driven from
the block house, and from one covert to another, until they were wholly destroyed
or dispersed in the wilderness. As they retreated, the soldiers set fire to their
wigwams (about six hundred in number), which were consumed by the flames.
In this action it was computed that about seven hundred fighting Indians perished,
and among them twenty of their chiefs. Three hundred more died from their
wounds. To these numbers may be added many old men, women and children,
who had retired to this fort as a place of undoubted security.
"The burning of the wigwams, the shrieks of the women' and children, the yel
ling of the warriors, exhibited a most horrid and affecting scene, so that it greatly
moved some of the soldiers. They were much in doubt whether the burning of
their enemies alive could be consistent with humanity and the benevolent princi
ples of the gospel."
From this blow the Indians never recovered. The victory of the English,
though complete, was dearly purchased. Six of their captains, and eighty of their
men were killed or mortally wounded; and one hundred and fifty were wounded
and afterward recovered. 'About one half of the loss of this bloody fight fell upon
the Connecticut soldiers.
Pawtucket is a flourishing place four miles northerly from Provi
dence, partly in North Providence and partly in Bristol county, Mas
sachusetts. Population about 10,000. It is situated on both sides of
the Pawtucket river — the dividing line between the states of Massa
chusetts and Rhode Island — which has here a fall of about fifty feet,
within a short distance, affording an extensive hydraulic power. The
first cloth manufactory by water power ever established in this country,
was commenced at Pawtucket in 1790, and for more than forty years
this town held the first rank among the manufacturing places in New
England. The manufactories here now are quite extensive, consisting
RHODE ISLAND. 325
of cotton goods, machinery, etc. The river is navigable for vessels
as far as the village, and it has considerable commerce. Samuel
Slater, the father of cotton manufactories in America, resided in this
village for many years. He died at Webster, Massachusetts, greatly
respected, April 20, 1835, aged 67.
On the 10th of July, 1777, Colonel Barton, of Providence, executed one
of the most bold and hazardous enterprises recorded during the revolution.
The British general, Prescott, who commanded on the island, was quartered
at this time about five miles from Newport, in a house yet standing, and it
was Barton's design to pass over to Rhode Island, seize Prescott, and convey
him to the American camp. Having selected about forty men of tried valor,
with Quako, a colored servant of Gen. Prescott, for a guide, Barton em
barked at about nine o'clock at night at Warwick Neck, on board his boats,
when with muffled oars they crossed over to Rhode Island, between Pru
dence and Patience Islands. As they passed the south end of Prudence, they
heard from the guard boats of the enemy the sentinel's cry, "All's well"
On landing, the men were divided into several divisions, and proceeded with
the utmost silence toward Prescott's quarters, passing the British guard house
from eighty to one hundred rods on the left, and a company of light horse
about the same distance on the right. The sentinel was seized, and Prescott
was not alarmed until his captors were at the door of his bed chamber, which
was fast closed. Quako, the guide, butted his beetle head through the panel
of the door, and thus making an entrance, secured his victim. Barton, placing
his hand on Prescott's shoulder, told him he was his prisoner, and that silence
was his only safety. He, with Major Barrington and another officer taken,
was hurried through a stubble field to the boat in waiting at the mouth of
the creek. After safely passing under the stern of one British man-of-war,
and under the bows of another, they safely reached Warwick Neck, where a
coach was in waiting to convey Barton and his prisoner to Providence.
" This General Prescott was a despicable character, and thoroughly abhorred
by the people of the island. His constant habit while walking the streets,
if he saw any of the inhabitants conversing together, was to shake his cane
at them, and say, 'Disperse, ye rebels.' During one of his perambulations
about the streets, he chanced to meet with one Elisha Anthony, a member
of the Society of Friends, and one asking Friend Anthony, in passing, "why
he did not take his hat off?" Anthony said, "It was against his principles
to show those signs of respect to man." Prescott hearing the observation,
ordered his servant to knock off his hat, which he did; and they passed on,
leaving the Friend, who very coolly picked up his broad-brim, and passed on.
While he was prisoner, Prescott was taken to Windsor, in Connecticut.
It is said that the landlord of the house where he stopped, brought him a
dish of beans and corn (succatosJi) , at which he was so highly exasperated,
that he threw them into his face, when the latter very deliberately
wiped his face with his shirt sleeve, and left the room. He, however, soon
returned, with a cow-hide, and the manner in which he applied it to his back
was a striking caution"
The brave Col. William Barton, who acted with so much intrepidity in
capturing Prescott, was born in Providence, in 1750. Congress rewarded
him for his revolutionary services, by a grant of land in Vermont, by the
transfer of which he eventually became entangled in the meshes of the law,
and in consequence he was imprisoned there for debt for many years. When
326 RHODE ISLAND.
LaFayette visited this country in 1825, as "the nation's guest," Barton, then
an old man of 75 years, was lying in prison. LaFayette heard of it, paid
his debt, and thus was he set at liberty. The gifted Whittier, in his noble
protest against imprisonment for debt, indignantly refers to his imprison
ment.
" What hath the gray-haired prisoner done ?
Hath murder stained his hand with gore?
Ah, no ! his crime's a fouler one —
God made the old man poor !"
The following details of the military events in 1778, in the war of
the revolution, upon the island of Rhode Island, are from Watson's
Annals : —
France having acknowledged our independence, and embarked energetically in
the war, all America was rejoiced and animated at the appearance of a French
fleet of twelve sail-of-the-line, commanded by Count D'Estaing, off Sandy Hook, in
the summer of 1778. In co-operation with Washington, an attack upon New York
was supposed to be their object. In a few days, however, we were surprised by
the approach of a detachment of 1,500 men from Washington's army, to Provi
dence, where Gen. Sullivan then commanded. Suddenly the French fleet appeared
off Newport; one or two British frigates were burnt, and the residue of the British
fleet sought refuge in the harbor. At once, the whole country was all bustle and
activity. The militia came pouring in from every quarter.
Newport was the point upon which the storm was to fall, and all supposed that
the royal army, of six thousand veterans, on Rhode Island, and the British fleet,
were within our grasp. The American army was principally assembled at Tiver-
ton, opposite Khode Island. Our Providence companies, with which I had again
mustered, also marched to that point.
The army crossed over to the island, and amounted to about 10,000 men. Sulli
van was an intrepid, although unfortunate officer. Generals Greene and LaFayette
were also in command on the occasion. John Hancock was likewise present, in
command of the Massachusetts militia. James Otis, a martyr to the cause of
liberty, was there a strolling lunatic about the camp. The great and fervid mind,
that first grasped the idea of independence, was then a melancholy ruin.
The British retreated, and our army regularly invested the town. Gen. Sullivan
received daily assurances that D'Estaing would enter the harbor, and land 3,000
troops, to co-operate with the American forces. The surrender of the British army
seemed inevitable. Lord Howe, in the interim, appeared off the harbor with an
inferior fleet, and D'Estaing pursued him out to sea, for the purpose of bringing
him to action. On the ensuing day, there occurred one of the most terrific storms
ever known at the season in this latitude. Both fleets were disabled and scattered.
The French fleet gradually re-assembled at their former position. The ships were
promptly repaired, and then, instead of prosecuting the siege, sailed for Boston,
leaving the army to its fate. Sullivan remonstrated in violent terms, and LaFayette
advanced every argument, and urged every expostulation, but the decision of the
council of officers, convened by D'Estaing, was irrevocable. Had we been attacked
at this moment of dejection and disorganization, with vigor and promptitude by
the enemy, the capture of our whole army was almost assured to them. An im
mediate retreat was ordered, the British pursued, and an engagement took place
near Quaker Hill. Our company was posted behind a stone wall, and attacked by
a corps of Hessians. After a sharp action, the British withdrew, and during the
night we effected our retreat to the main land, without the loss of our cannon or
baggage. Our retreat was most opportune, as Gen. Clinton arrived the day after
with 4,000 men, and a formidable fleet. The loss of the Americans in the engage
ment at Quaker Hill, in killed, wounded and missing, was 211 — of the enemy, 260
RHODE ISLAND. 327
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, ETC.
Massasoit, the chief of the Wampanoags, was the principal sachem of the Indians at the
time of the arrival of the English in New England. He was more renowned in peace than
in war, and as long as he lived was a firm friend to the English. He appears to have
owned Cape Cod, and all that part of Massachusetts and Rhode Island between Narragan-
set and Massachusetts Bays, extending inland between Pawtucket and Charles Rivers, to
gether with all the contiguous islands. This tract was occupied by various tribes, who all
looked up to him to sanction their expeditions, and settle their difficulties. He had several
places of residence, but the principal was Mt. Hope or Pocanoket. The infant colony at
Plymouth was much indebted to this chieftain, for his friendship and influence. A treaty-
was made which was faithfully observed by Massasoit and his successor, for more than 40
years afterward.
Cfinonicus was a renowned sachem of the Narragansets, and the warm friend of Roger
Williams. When Williams was exiled from Massachusetts, he gave him all the land in the
vicinity of Providence for a settlement. His seat was on Canonicut Island, opposite
Newport, where stood " his palace," a building 50 feet in length, made of upright poles,
and covered with mats and branches. This " wise and peaceable prince," as Williams calls
him, died at his seat in 1647, having lived nearly a century.
Philip, sachem of Pocanoket, usually called King Philip, was the youngest son of Mas
sasoit, and succeeded his brother Alexander in 1657. He soon after renewed the friend
ship which had long subsisted between his tribe and the English, but in 1675 he commenced
a furious war against them, the most bloody they ever experienced. He was brave, crafty
and politic, and possessing great influence over the neighboring tribes, excited most of them
to unite in his attempt to exterminate the whites. He was killed at Mt. Hope, in 1676,
after having defended himself and what he supposed to be the rights of his countrymen to
the last extremity.
^ Roger Williams, the principal founder of Rhode Island, " the great champion of tolera
tion, and of the right of private judgment in religion," was a native of Wales, and edu
cated at Oxford. Originally a clergyman of the Church of England, he became a non-con
formist, and emigrated to America in 1631, when he was 32 years of age. In 1634, he be
came minister of the congregation at Salem. He there grew intolerant in his excessive
zeal for toleration, asserting that oaths ought not to be administered to the unregenerate,
and that Christians ought not to pray with them. Forming a separate congregation, he
even refused to commune with members of his own church, who did not separate entirely
from all connection with the " polluted New England churches." He finally declared the
Massachusetts charter void, because the land had not been purchased from the Indians and
" reviled magistrates." The sentence of banishment was accordingly pronounced upon
him by the court, and in 1637, he left the colony and founded the town of Providence.
His extreme opinions softening by time, he grew a pattern of toleration, became a Baptist,
and formed a civil government that was purely democratic — an eminent peace-maker be
tween the whites and Indians, he twice saved those who had banished him from destruc
tion. He died at Providence at the age of 84 years. " His name is cherished as the first
founder of a state in the New World, where freedom to worship God according to the dic
tates of the individual conscience was made the organic law."
Stephen Hopkins, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born in Scituate, then
within the limits of the town of Providence, March 7, 1707. He was a farmer until 1731,
when he removed to the busi-
ness part of the place, and
engaged in mercantile pur-
sults- He was a delesate to
the colonial convention held
in Albany in 1754 ; became
governor of the colony, and
was active in promoting the
enlistment of volunteers dur
ing the French war. He was chosen a delegate to the continental congress for the last
time, in 1778. Although then over 70 years of age, he was very active, and was almost
constantly a member of some important committee. He died July 19, 1785. His first wife
was Sarah Scott, a member of the Society of Friends, whose meetings he attended most of
his life. The tremulous appearance of his signature was caused by a bodily infirmity, the
" shaking palsy," with which he was afflicted for many years.
328 RHODE ISLAND.
William Ellcry, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born at Newport, Dec-
22, 1727, educated
at Harvard, and by
practice as a law-
/ si /j ycr in his native
place, rose to emi-
Rufus King, of N.
Y., he made strong
efforts to abolish the
system of slavery.
As a patriot and a Christian he was much respected. He was appointed collector of the
port of Newport, which office he retained until his death in 1820.
Nathaniel Greene, a major-general of the American army, was born at Warwick, in 1746.
His parents were members of the Society of Friends. His father was an anchor smith, to
which business his son was trained. Being fired with military zeal, at the commencement
of the Revolution, he was entrusted, by his native state, with the command of three regi
ments, which he led on to Cambridge. He was appointed a major-general of the Conti
nental army, in 1776, and soon after displayed his military genius at the battles of Trenton
and Princeton. By his victory at Eutaw Springs, in 1781, he won the applause of con
gress and the American people. In 1785, he went to Georgia to look after an estate be
longing to him, near Savannah. "While walking, one day in June, without an umbrella,
he was ' sun struck,' and died on the 17th of that month, 1786, at the age of 46." In per
son, Gen. Greene was rather corpulent and above the common size, his complexion waa
fair and florid ; his countenance serene and mild. His health was generally delicate, but
was preserved by temperance and exercise. He was considered the ablest of Washington's
generals.
Christopher Greene, a brave and accomplished officer, was a native of Rhode Island.
After the battle of Bunker Hill, he was appointed a colonel of a Rhode Island regiment,
and in that capacity accompanied Arnold through the wilderness to Quebec. In 1777, he
was placed in the chief command at Red Bank, on the Delaware. For his gallant conduct
in defeating the enemy in their attack on this post, congress voted him a sword. He was
killed by a band of tory dragoons, at his post near Croton River, N. Y., May 13, 1781, at
the age of 44 years.
Abraham Whipple, a commodore in the navy, and the first man who fired a gun in the
naval service in the Revolution, was born at Providence in 1733. In the French war he
commanded a privateer, named The Game Cock, and in a single cruise, in 1760, he took 23
French prizes. In 1772, he boarded and burnt the Gaspee. In the spring of 1775, being
put in command of two vessels by the legislature of Rhode Island, he drove out a British
frigate that was blockading Narraganset Bay. In Feb. 1776, he sailed on a cruise in the
squadron of Commodore Hopkins, the naval commander-in-chief, and remained in active
service until the fall of Charleston in 1780, when he became a prisoner. After the war he
emigrated to Marietta, Ohio, where he died in 1819.
Silas Tnlbot, a native of Rhode Island, rendered important services both on land and sea
in the Revolution. In 1779, he was commissioned a captain in the navy, and took several
British prizes, among which was the " King George," a vessel particularly hated by the
New Englanders. He performed many daring exploits with his little vessel, the Argo ;
but was finally captured by a British fleet in 1780, and suffered the horrors of the Jer
sey prison-ship, and the Provost jail at New York. In the administration of Washing
ton, he superintended the construction of the "old Constitution," and became its first
commander with the renowned Isaac Hull as his lieutenant. He died in 1813.
Gilbert Charles Stuart, so eminent as a portrait painter, was born in 1754, at Narragan
set ; in 1775, went to England, where he became the pupil of Mr. West. In 1794, he re
turned to his native country, his great desire being to paint a portrait of Washington.
Although he had been familiar with the highest nobility of England, he said that Washing
ton was the first human being whose presence inspired him with awe. The name of Stuart
is now forever linked with that of the great man, in the celebrated portrait in the Boston
Atheneum. Mr. Stuart resided in Boston from 1801 until his death, in 1828. Apart
from his profession, he was a man of extraordinary talents. " In Boston," said Benjamin
West to an English ambassador, about leaving for this country, " you will find the best
portrait painter in the world, and his name is Gilbert Stuart ! "
CONNECTICUT.
<M
THE precise time when the country, now comprising Connecticut,
was first visited by the Europeans, can not now be ascertained. Both the
Dutch and English claimed to be
the first discoverers, and both pur
chased and took possession of lands
on the Connecticut nearly at the
same time. In 1633, Wm. Holmes
and others of the Plymouth colo
nists, having prepared the frame of
a house, and collected various mate
rials, put them on board of a vessel
and sailed for Connecticut. When
they had proceeded up the Connec
ticut River as far as the site of
Hartford, the Dutch who had pre
ceded them and built a fort there,
threatened to fire upon them. Dis-
ARMS OF CONNECTICUT. ,. ,1 • ,1 ,1 -13
iu, fl«.tf«rf.»-He who transplanted regarding their threats, they sailed
stm sustains. a few miles above to Windsor where
they erected a house and fortified it with palisades. This was the first
dwelling erected in Connecticut.
In the autumn of 1635, many of the inhabitants of Dorchester and
Watertown, in Massachusetts, hearing of the fertility of the meadows
on Connecticut River, removed thither and began settlements at
Wethersfield and Windsor. During the next winter their sufferings
from famine were great. Some of the company, in dread of starva
tion, returned in December to Massachusetts. Those who remained
were obliged to subsist on acorns, malt, and grains. The cattle which
could not be got over the river before winter, lived by browsing in the
woods and meadows.
In June of the succeeding year, the Rev. Mr. Hooker, with his
congregation of about 100 men, women, and children, departed from
Cambridge, Mass., and traveled through the wilderness to Hartford.
With no guide but their compass, they made their way over moun
tains, through swamps, thickets, and rivers. Their journey occupied
nearly two weeks, during which they drove their cattle before them ;
using for drink, on their way, the milk of the cows. Mrs. Hooker be
ing in feeble health was carried upon a horse litter.
The year 1637 was distinguished by the war with the Pequots, one
(329)
330 CONNECTICUT.
of the most warlike tribes in New England. In 1634, they killed
Capt. Stone and his companions, seven in number, for compelling two
of their nation to be their guides in ascending the Connecticut. In
April 1637, the Indians killed nine persons in Wethersfield, and took
two young women prisoners. These murders called upon the inhab
itants to take measures for their safety, by making war upon the Pe
quots. They sent for assistance from the other colonies : forces were
accordingly raised, but those of Connecticut, on account of their vin-
cinity to the enemy, were first in action.
Early in May, Capt. Mason, with 90 men from Hartford, Wethers-
field and Windsor went down the river to Saybrook, where they were
joined by Capt. Underbill, and by Uncas, sachem of the Mohegans.
He then proceeded to Narraganset Bay, where he engaged a large
b'ody of Narraganset Indians as auxiliaries.
"The whole of the army amounted to about 500, with 77 Englishmen. By in
formation obtained from the Narragansets, it was found that the Pequots occu
pied two forts, one at Mystic River, about 24 miles, the other 27 miles, from the
camp at Nihantick; both in the eastern part of the present town of Groton. The
forts were represented by the Indians as formidable works, and difficult to carry
by assault Mason determined to press on, and assault the strongest fort. After a
march of about 12 miles, through forests, and over hills and morasses, in a very
hot day, Mason reached the Pawcatuck, where he halted and refreshed his troops.
At this place many of the Indians, overcome by their fears, left Mason, and re
turned home to Narraganset; but the determined leader resolving to advance
with his diminished force, dispatched a faithful Indian to reconnoiter the fort,
who soon returned with information that the Pequots were unapprised of their
danger, and appeared to be resting in perfect security.
The march was immediately recommenced, under the guidance of Weguash, a
revolted Pequot, toward Mystic River, where stood one of the forts, and on the
night of the 26th of May, the whole body encamped at Porter's Rocks, about three
miles from the fort. Two hours before day, the next morning, the troops were in
motion for the assault; and on approaching near the fort, it was found to be situ
ated on the summit of a hill, in the center of a handsome opening easily discerned
through the gray of the morning, and intervening woods. Mason's Indians now
entirely lost their resolution, and began to fall back, on which, by much persua
sion, he induced them to form an extended circle about the fort, at a safe distance,
and there to remain, witnesses of the resolution of his Englishmen. Forming
these into two columns, one under Capt. Underbill, the other under himself, he or
dered the attack to be made in opposite directions. The enemy had spent the
forepart of the night in a frolic, and were now in a profound sleep, and without
their usual watch. On the close approximation of the English, a dog within the
fort began to roar, which awakened one of the Pequots, who perceiving the ad
vance of the assailants, vociferated the alarm, Awanmtx ! Awannux ! (English
men ! Englishmen!) which roused the others from their fatal security; and while
they were rallying, Mason's troops advanced and poured in a fire through the
apertures of the palisades, and wheeling off to a side barricaded only with brush,
rushed into the fort sword in hand— Underbill with his party, entered at the same
time. The enemy, notwithstanding their great confusion, made a desperate resist
ance; covering themselves in, and behind their wigwams, they maintained their
ground, with resolution, against the English, who advanced in different directions,
cutting, thrusting, or hewing them down with their swords without mercy. The
victory hanging in suspense, Mason ordered the wigwams to be fired, and in a few
moments the mats, with which they were covered, were in a blaze, and the names
spread in all directions, which compelled the assailants to retire to the exterior
side, where they formed a circle about the fort, with the auxiliary Indians beyond
them, in their former position. Driven from their covert by the fire, the distressed
CONNECTICUT. 33^
Jt*equots climbed the palisades, and presenting themselves in full view, more than
100 were shot down; others, sallying and attempting to break through the sur
rounding troops, were shot or cut down by the English swords ; if any were so for
tunate as to break through the first circle, they were sure to meet death at the
second, formed by the Indians. In the meantime many perished in the flames
within the fort. The scene continued about an hour, and is hardly to be de
scribed; 70 wigwams were consumed, and between 5 and 600 Pequots, of all de
scriptions, strewed the ground, or were involved in the conflagration. The victory
was achieved with the loss of only two men killed, and 16 wounded, on the part of
the English.
In the course of the attack, in the interior of the fort, Capt. Mason narrowly es
caped death. Entering a wigwam to procure a firebrand, a Pequot drew his arrow
to the head, with a design to pierce the captain's body; fortunately a resolute ser
geant, entering at the moment, severed the bow string with his cutlass, and saved
his commander.
Though the English had been completely successful in their attack on the fort,
and had suffered but a trifling loss, their situation was critical. The provisions
conveyed upon the backs of the men, were nearly exhausted — the men were much
fatigued by their previous march, in which little* time had been given for repose;
and another powerful body of the enemy, under the daring Sassacus, was in the
possession of the other fort, not far distant. The flotilla which had landed the
troops at Narraganset, had been ordered, on Mason's departure from the bay, to
proceed to Pequot harbor, with supplies for the little army; but it had not yet
reached the place. Under these embarrassing circumstances, Mason was at a loss
how to shape his future operations, and in constant expectation of an attack from
Sassacus and his exasperated warriors. In a short time, however, he was relieved
from his dilemma, by the sight of the flotilla, under full sail, entering Pequot har
bor with an ample supply of provisions. Mason immediately commenced his
march for the harbor, nearly six miles distant, and a body of about 300 furious
Indians were soon pressing upon his flanks and rear; and covering themselves
with trees and rocks, galling his troops with their arrows. Capt. Underbill, with
some of the best men, covered the rear of the column, and by a well directed fire,
as opportunity presented, compelled the enemy to give up the pursuit.
The capture of the fort, and the loss they had sustained, threw the Pequots into
great consternation. On viewing the destruction they were frantic with rage —
they stamped the ground — tore their hair, and filled the air with their horrible
cries. But as the number still under Sassacus was formidable, the danger had not
subsided, and the English had much to fear from their increased resentment.
The success of the Connecticut forces being communicated to the governor of
Massachusetts, from Roger Williams, by an Indian runner, it was judged that the
whole of the forces from Plymouth and Massachusetts, but a part of which had
been put in march, were not now required for the prosecution of the war. Only
120 men penetrated the Pequot country, under Capts. Stoughton, Trask and Pat
rick. In June this force reached Pequot harbor, and in conjunction with a body
of Narragansets, marched into the interior, for the purpose of devastation. Dur
ing their operations, they hemmed in a body of Pequots upon a peninsula formed
by a river, killed 30 and made 80 prisoners : 30 of the captives were warriors ;
these were put on board a small vessel under Capt. Gallop, at Pequot harbor — con
veyed a short distance out and dispatched. A most digraceful act of the comman
der of the forces, if executed by his order. The troops under Stoughton were
afterward joined by 40 men from Connecticut, under the gallant Mason. With
this force, added to the Narragansets, Sassacus found it in vain to contend ; he
destroyed his remaining forts and wigwams, and with a large body of his chief
counselors and warriors, fled toward Hudson's River, while others left their coun
try, and joined the distant tribes in other directions.
The route of Sassacus toward the Hudson, lying along the sea coast, the English
resolved to pursue, and if possible, complete his destruction, and rid themselves
of a dangerous enemy. For this purpose part of the forces were embarked in
light vessels, to proceed by water, while the remainder should traverse the shore.
At Menunkatuck, since Guilford, several straggling Pequots were captured by the
332 CONNECTICUT.
English, among whom were two Sachems, who, obstinately refusing to give infor
mation of the destination of the main body, were put to death, at a place since
known by the name of Sachem s Head, in that town.
Continuing the pursuit, the English arrived at Quinipiack, now New Haven,
where they received intelligence that the enemy had halted at a great swamp, in
the present town of Fairfield, and had been joined by many of the natives of the
country, making, in the whole, a force of nearly 300. The English immediately
pressed their march, reached the swamp on the 13th of July, and soon invested it
on all sides. A small party under Lieut. Davenport, incautiously pressing into
the swamp, was attacked and diven back, and severely wounded by Indian arrows.
Terms of surrender were now offered to the enemy, on which about 100 old men,
women and children, most of whom were natives of the country, came out of the
swamp, and submitted to the English; but the high spirited Pequots. resolving to
die, or escape, continued to resist with resolution. When night came on, the
English opened a narrow passage into the swamp, by cutting away the brush with
their swords, and closing in their line, kept up a scattering fire during the night.
A thick fog hanging over the swamp at day-break, the next morning, a body of
fierce warriors made a rapid charge, at one point, and after a severe conflict, broke
through the English line, and 60 or 70 escaped; about 20 were killed, and 180 of
all descriptions, found in the recesses of the swamp, were made prisoners. Sassa-
cus, and about 20 of his faithful warriors, fled to the Mohawks, where it seems the
chief was not very cordially received; for not long after, he, with most of his fu
gitives, were put to death by these people, and his scalp sent to Connecticut.
The victory at the Great Swamp, completed the ruin of the Pequot nation. A
few still skulking about the woods in their native land, were taken by the Narra-
f insets, and Mohegans, and not unfrequently their heads were brought to the
nglish on Connecticut River. Most of the warriors whose lives were spared,
were given to the auxiliary Indians, who treated them as their own people. Some
of the males were sent to the West Indies, and their country became the property
of the English. In the course of this bloody war, at least 700 Pequots are sup
posed to have been destroyed, 13 of whom were sachems."
The pursuit of the Pequots led to an acquaintance7' with the lands on the
sea coast from Saybrook to Fairfield. In 1638 the favorable report given of
the country, induced Mr. Eaton, Mr. Hopkins, the Rev. Mr. Davenport, and
others who had emigrated from London to Massachusetts, to remove to Quin-
nipiac, now New Haven, where they laid the foundation of a flourishing
colony.
In 1638 the inhabitants of Hartford, Wethersfield and Windsor, finding
they were beyond the limits of Massachusetts, formed themselves into a dis
tinct commonwealth, elected their own officers, and made their own laws. In
1643 the colonies of Massachusetts, Plymouth, Connecticut and New Haven,
united in a confederacy, calling themselves the " United Colonies of New
England." This union made them formidable to the Dutch and Indians.
After Charles II was restored to the throne, Connecticut sent over Governor
Winthrop to obtain a royal charter. He arrived in a favorable time, as sev
eral of the friends of the colony were in high favor at court. Mr. Winthrop
had an extraordinary ring:, which had been given his grandfather by King
Charles I, which he presented to the king. This, it is said, exceedingly
pleased his majesty, as it had once been the property of a father dear to him.
Under these favorable circumstances the petition of Connecticut was received
with uncommon favor. On the 20th of April, 1662, his majesty granted a
charter more liberal in its provisions than any which had been given, and
confirming in every particular the constitution which the people had them
selves adopted.
This charter comprehended New Haven colony in its limits, but for sev
eral years its people refused to consent to the union. In this opposition to
CONNECTICUT. 333
the commands of the king, and the remonstrances of Connecticut, they per
severed until 1665, when the apprehension of the appointment of a governor-
general, and of their being united with some other colony having a charter
less favorable to liberty, impelled them to consent to the union with Con
necticut.
In 1664, King Charles II gave a patent to his brother, the Duke of York
and Albany, of large tracts of territory in America, in which the lands on
the west side of Connecticut were included. Soon after, Col. Nichols, who
was sent over to reduce the Dutch possessions, subdued the Netherlands, and
gave it the name of New York. The boundaries of Connecticut were now
fixed as beginning on the east side of Momoronock Creek, "where the salt
water meets the fresh at high water;" thence north-east to the line of Mas
sachusetts. The commissioners also determined the southern boundaries of
Connecticut to be the sea. By this decision Connecticut lost all her posses
sions on Long Island. The Duke of York commissioned Major, afterward
Sir Edmund Andross, to be governor of New York. Andross, in order to
enforce the claim to the lands on the west side of Connecticut, in 1675, at
tempted to take the fort at Saybrook, but was defeated by the firmness of
Capt. Bull.
In 1675, Philip, the sachem of Wampanoags, began the most destructive
war ever waged by the Indians upon the colonies. Lest he should increase
his power by an alliance with the Narragansets, the English made a friendly
treaty with the latter, but soon after discovering that they were aiding
Philip's party, they determined to make a winter expedition against them.
For this object the colony of Massachusetts furnished 527 men, Plymouth
159, and Connecticut 300: to these were attached 150 Mohegan Indians.
The Narragansets were defeated after a terrible slaughter, in which Connec
ticut lost eighty men in killed and wounded. Three of her captains — Seely,
Marshall and Gallop — were killed, and Capt. Mason received a wound from
which he never recovered.
In 1685 'Charles II died, and was succeeded by James II, who was a tyrant,
and oppressed the people. To accomplish his designs, he wished to deprive
Connecticut of its charter, and to appoint her governors. In 1687, Sir Ed
mund Andross, who had been appointed governor-general of New England,
arrived at Hartford, with 60 soldiers as a guard. The assembly being in
session, he demanded of them the surrender of their charter. It was pro
duced, and while the officers of the government were debating with Andross
on the subject, the lights were suddenly extinguished, the charter seized and
secreted in a hollow oak. Andross, however, took formal possession of the
government, and appointed civil and military officers.
Andross began his government with the most flattering professions of re
gard for the welfare of the people; but soon throwing off the mask, he ap
peared in his true character as a tyrant. He declared that the titles of the
colonists to their lands were of no value, and that the Indian deeds were no
better than the " scratch of a bear's paw" The proprietors of lands, after
fifty and sixty years' improvement of the soil, were obliged in many in
stances to take out new patents, for which a heavy fee was demanded. For
tunately the reign of King James was short, and Andross, his governor of
New England, being deposed, Connecticut resumed her former government.
In 1692, Col. Fletcher being appointed governor of New York, was author
ized by his commission to take command of the militia of Connecticut. The
next year, when the general assembly was in session, he repaired to Hartford
334 CONNECTICUT.
and demanded that the militia should be placed under his command. This
was refused, as the colony, by their charter, was entrusted with this command.
The train-bands of Hartford being assembled, Col. Fletcher directed his com
mission to be read. Capt. Wadsworth, the senior officer, instantly ordered
the drums to be beat. Col. Fletcher commanded silence; and again his aid
began to read. " Drum — drum, I say!" exclaimed Wadsworth. Once more
Fletcher commanded silence and a pause ensued. "Drum — drum, T say,"
cried the captain, and, turning to his excellency, exclaimed, " If 1 am inter
rupted again, I will make the sun shine through you in a moment!" He spoke
with such energy in his voice, and meaning in his countenance, that no fur
ther attempts were made to read or to enlist men. Deeming it unwise to con
tend with such a spirit, Gov. Fletcher and his suit immediately left Hartford
and returned to New York.
Until the session in October, 1698, the general assembly consisted of but one
house, and the magistrates and deputies appear to have acted together. But at
this time it was enacted that the assembly should consist of two houses. The gov
ernor, or in his absence, the deputy governor, and magistrates, composed the upper
house. The lower house consisted of deputies, now usually called representatives,
from the several towns in the colony. This house was authorized to choose a
speaker to preside. From this time no public act could be passed into a law, but
by the consent of both houses. In 1701, it was enacted that the October session
of the assembly should be annually held in New Haven. Previous to this time,
and ever since the union of the colonies, the assembly had convened, both in May
and October, at Hartford.
The number of inhabitants in Connecticut in the year 1713, was about 17,000.
There were four counties — Hartford, New London, New Haven and Fail-field —
and thirty-eight taxable towns, who sent forty delegates to the assembly. The
militia consisted of a regiment to each county, and amounted to nearly 4,000 ef
fective men. At this time the shipping in the colony consisted of two small brigs
and twenty sloops; the number of seamen did not exceed one hundred and twenty.
There was but a single clothier in the colony, " and the most he could do was to
full the cloth which was made; most of the cloth manufactured was worn without
shearing or pressing." The trade was very limited. The only articles directly
exported to Great Britain were turpentine, pitch, tar, and fur. The principal trade
was with Boston, New York and the West Indies. To the former places they
traded in the produce of the colony ; wheat, rye, barley, Indian corn, peas, pork,
beef, and fat cattle. To the West Indies, the merchants exported horses, staves,
hoops, pork, beef and cattle. In return, they received rum, sugar, molasses, cot
ton, wool, bills of exchange, and sometimes small sums of money.
In the expedition of the New England colonies against Louisburg, in 1745, Con
necticut furnished upward of 1,000 troops. For the encouragement of the men to
enlist, the assembly voted a bounty of ten pounds to each soldier who should fur
nish himself with arms, knapsack and blanket; and three pounds to every soldier
who should not be able to arm himself. Five hundred men were divided into eight
companies, and Roger Wolcott, Esq., lieutenant-governor, was appointed the com
mander. At the time of the siege, 200 men were sent on in addition, by Connec
ticut, and after the reduction of Louisburg, the colony provided 350 men to keep
garrison during the winter. A sloop was also furnished, manned with 100 men.
VVThile the war continued against the French in Canada, Connecticut made great
exertions, and did more most of the time than double her proportion, compared
with the rest of the colonies. In the year 1759, she had more than six thousand
men in actual service. At this period the militia were more numerous than at
present, according to the population — as all from the age of sixteen to sixty were
obliged to bear arms. In the year 1762, the New England colonies rendered very
important services in the reduction of Havana and Martinique. It was, however,
a fatal enterprise to most of the New England troops; of nearly 1.000 men who
were engaged in the expedition, not 100 returned. Such as were not killed in the
service, were swept away by the bilious plague.
CONNECTICUT. 335
After the definitive treaty of peace, signed at Paris, Feb. 10, 1763, which ended
the French wars, the extension of settlements, commerce, wealth and population
in Connecticut, was extremely rapid. "After the peace, an almost boundless
scope of commerce and enterprise was given to the colonists. In these favorable
circumstances, with the return of thousands of her brave and industrious inhabit
ants to the cultivation of their fields, and the various arts and labors of peace, the
colony was soon able to exonerate itself from the debt contracted by the war."
These prosperous circumstances continued until the beginning of the Revolution.
Connecticut, by her charter, granted in 1662, extended from Narraganset River
on the east to the South Sea on the west, excepting such lauds as were then occu
pied by prior settlers. Nearly nineteen years afterward, William Penn obtained
a grant of land on the west side of the Delaware River, extending northward to
the forty -third degree of longitude ; this covered part of the territory embraced in
the Connecticut charter. For nearly a century after the charter was obtained,
Connecticut neglected to claim these lands, which lay westward of the colony of
New York. But after she had granted all her lands eastward of that colony, a
company was formed with the design of planting the lands within her charter, on
the Susquehannah. This company was formed in 1753, and the next year a pur
chase was made from the sachems of the Six Nations of a large tract at Wyoming.
In 1774, the settlement was formed into a town, called Westmoreland, which sent
representatives to the assembly in Connecticut.
The treaty of the Connecticut men with the Indians, and their purchase of the
lands, excited the jealousy of the proprietaries of Pennsylvania. They proceeded
to take a deed of the same lands from some of the chiefs, who declined signing the
deed to the Connecticut purchasers. Grants of land were made by Pennsylvania,
and settlements begun, which excited warm disputes, and an attempt was made to
drive the Connecticut settlers from the lands by force of arms. In 1770, the leg
islature of Connecticut sent certain questions to England to be proposed to the
most able lawyers there, respecting her title to the lands in question. The answers
were favorable to her claims, and she determined to support them. But the Rev
olutionary war suspended the controversy, until 1781, when both states agreed to
appoint commissioners to settle the dispute. An act of congress was passed, con
stituting these commissioners a court to hear and determine the controversy. In
November, 1782, the commissioners met at Trenton, N. ,1. This court decided that
Connecticut had no right to the lands in question, and that the territory comprised
in the chartered limits of Pennsylvania belonged of right to her. Although Con
necticut acquiesced in the decision at Trenton, yet she maintained her claim to all
the territory within the range of the north and south boundaries of the state, as
expressed in the charter, lying west of Pennsylvania, and extending to the Missis
sippi. With a view to obtain the implied sanction of their charter claims, Con
necticut, in 1786, by their delegates in Congress, ceded to the United States all
the lands within the charter limits, west of Pennsylvania, excepting a tract 120
miles in length, adjoining that state on the west. This cession was accepted. A
part of the reserved lands, amounting to half a million of acres, was granted by
the state to the inhabitants of New London, Fairfield and Norwalk, whose prop
erty was destroyed by the enemy during the Revolutionary war. The remainder
was sold in 1795, and the money arising from the sale constitutes the School Fund,
for the support of schools throughout the state. The title of Connecticut to the
reserved lands, was confirmed by Congress in 1800. The territory now forming
part of the state of Ohio, is still called'the Connecticut or Western "Reserve.
During the great struggle of tlie Revolution, Connecticut was one of the
foremost in the confederacy in resisting the tyranny of Britain, and was lav
ish of her blood and treasure in sustaining the conflict against her oppres
sions. Her soldiers were applauded by the commander-in-chief of the Amer
ican army for their bravery and fidelity. In the last war with great Britain,
in the first conflict on the ocean, the first flag was struck to a native of Con
necticut : on the land, the first flag which was taken, was also surrendered to
one of her sons.
336 CONNECTICUT.
The founders of Connecticut were men of intelligence, virtue and piety,
1 and understood the great principles of civil and religious liberty; hence they
laid the foundations of those institutions which distinguish her among her
sister states of the Union. Ever republican in her form of government, she
has, in eifect, ever been a free and independent commonwealth ; and while
the other colonies were suffering under the domination of Royal Governors,
she has from the beginning been governed by rulers of her own choice.
After the Declaration of Independence, Connecticut did not follow the ex
ample of most of the other states, and adopt a written constitution, but con
tinued the government according to the ancient form; a statute being enacted,
the session following the Declaration of American Independence, July 4,
1776, which provided that the government should continue to be organized
and administered according to the provisions of the charter. This form of
government continued without any very essential alterations till 1818. In
this year, a convention of delegates from the several towns, elected by the peo
ple, convened in Hartford, and after a session of about three weeks, framed
a constitution of civil government for the state. This being submitted to
the electors on the 5th of October, 1818, was ratified by them by a majority
of fifteen hundred and fifty -four votes. Since this period the general assem
bly has had but one stated session in each year, commencing on the first
Wednesday in May. The sessions are held alternately at Hartford and New
Haven ; those years having odd numbers, at Hartford — those even, at New
Haven.
Connecticut, though small in her territorial limits, has been an important
member of the Union. According to her population, she has furnished more
emigrants to the Great West than any other state, and her sons are to be
found in every part of the confederacy. For men of genius and enterprise,
she stands in the foremost rank ; and in everything that benefits, adorns, or
ennobles humanity, she is second to none of her sister states.
Connecticut is bounded north by Massachusetts, east by Rhode
Island, south by Long Island Sound, and west by the state of New
York. It is 88 miles in length from east to west, and 53 in mean
breadth, containing an area of 4,674 square miles.
The surface of Connecticut is agreeably diversified by hills and val
leys, presenting to the eye of the traveler a constantly varying pros
pect. Several ranges of mountains are in the state, running generally
from north to south, the most elevated of which are in the north-west
part. All the rivers run from north to south, emptying their waters
into Long Island Sound. The soil varies from a gravelly loam upon
the hilly lands, to a rich and fertile alluvial in the valleys — the former
well adapted to grazing, and the latter to tillage. Nearly every de
scription of grain, garden vegetables, fruits, etc., are successfully and
extensively cultivated.
The numerous streams and rivers furnish water-power in every
part, which is improved to a very great extent. By this, with the ad
dition of steam power, a vast amount of manufactured articles, em
bracing a very great variety, is annually produced. Bordering on the
ocean and on the rivers, ship building, and domestic and foreign com
merce, have ever been important interests to the state.
CONNECTICUT.
337
Connecticut has ever been distinguished for her educational advan
tages. She has a school fund of upward of two millions of dollars,
giving a dividend of about $1 50 for each child between the ages of
4 and 16. There are three colleges in the state : Yale, at New Ha
ven, founded in 1701; Trinity, at Hartford, under the patronage of the
Episcopalians, founded in 1824; and the Wesleyan University, at Mid-
dletown, under the patronage of the Methodists, founded in 1831.
Connecticut was originally settled by the Puritans, of the Independent
or Congregational order, and from this circumstance this has been the
leading denomination. Some of the early laws of the state did not
give equal privileges to all religious bodies. These have long since
been repealed^ and all denominations now possess equal rights and
privileges. Population in 1790, 238,140; in 1840, 309,978; in 1850,
370,791 ; now about 450,000.
View of Hartford, from the east bank of Connecticut River.
The State-house, at the head of State-street, is seen on the left ; the freight depot of the Hartford and
New Haven Railroad, and part of the bridge over the Connecticut River, on the right, beyond which the
Hartford, Providence and Fishkill Railroad passes.
HARTFORD, the semi-capitol of Connecticut, is situated on the west
side of Connecticut River, 50 miles from its mouth, 34 miles N. N. E.
from New Haven, 100 W. S. W. of Boston, 74 W. of Providence, and
123 N. E. from New York. It is at the head of sloop navigation, and
has a steamboat communication with New York. By means of rail
roads in almost every direction, which center here, the city enjoys
superior facilities for an extensive business. Hartford, as a whole, is
substantially and compactly built of brick and stone, and exhibits a
larger number of elegant edifices, and more elaborate architecture,
than most cities of its size. It contains a large number of public build-
338 CONNECTICUT.
ings, among which are upward of 20 churches. It has 2 savings in
stitutions ; 5 insurance companies, with an aggregate capital of $1,750,-
000; 5 life insurance companies, with an aggregate original and ac
cumulated capital of $2,138,000. Population in 1820, 4,726 ; in 18-40,
9,468; in 1850, 17,966; now about 34,000.
It has quite a number of incorporated companies having an aggregate cap
ital of about $2,000,000 engaged in manufacturing and commercial enter
prises, beside several not incorporated. Colt's celebrated armory, for the
manufacture of his world-renowned "revolver;" Sharp's celebrated rifle fac
tory, and several other heavy manufacturing establishments, are located here.
The amount of articles annually manufactured in the city, is estimated to be
about six millions in value.
The city limits extend upward of a mile along the river and three-fourths
of a mile back, rising gently from the river. Main-street, extending from
N. to S., is the principal thoroughfare. It is broad and nearly straight, and
for more than a mile presents an almost unbroken range of brick and stone
edifices. On this street are most of the principal public buildings. The city
is connected with East Hartford by a bridge over the Connecticut, 1 ,000 feet
in length, and a causeway extending across the meadows, in a straight line,
about a mile. There is also a very superior stone bridge over Little or Mill
River, in the southern part of the city, having but a single arch, the cord or
span of which is 104 feet.
The state-house, built in 1792, of stone and brick, in the Roman Doric
style, is conspicuous among the public buildings. It stands in the center of
the city, inclosed in a small but beautiful park. In the senate chamber is
one of the best original paintings of Washington extant: it was painted by
Stuart. The City Hall is an elegant structure of Grecian architecture, the
basement of which is occupied as a city market, the second floor as the city
and police court rooms and other public offices, and the third floor as the
public City Hall. Hartford was incorporated a city in 1784.
Wadsworth Atheneum, standing on the west side of Main street, is a noble build
ing, of light gray granite, in the castellated Gothic style of architecture, devoted
to historical and literary purposes. The north compartment is* occupied by the
Young Men's Institute, the basement as lecture rooms, and the second floor for
their library, containing some 10,000 volumes. The center compartment contains
a gallery of paintings, and other rooms, devoted also to the fine arts and sculpture.
The south compartment is devoted to the use of the Connecticut Historical Soci
ety, and contains in its archives a large and highly interesting collection of his
torical antiquities, beside some 5,000 volumes, and multitudes of various docu
ments, pamphlets and manuscripts. Among these is a large collection of colonial
and state documents, a part of which were collected by the first governor, Trum-
bull, during the revolutionary period, a large collection of town histories, printed
and in manuscript, a full assortment of ancient and modern coins, ancient maps,
engravings, relics of antiquity, etc. The bound volumes in the library, including
those belonging to the Rev. Dr. Bobbins, are about 6,000 in number. Dr. Kobbins'
collection is very valuable. It consists of about 5,000 volumes, of which 300 are
folios. He has also a collection of pamphlets, some of which are very rare. In
his collection of ancient Bibles, there is a copy of St. Jerome's Bible, printed at
Venice in 1498, and the Bishop's Bible, first edition, supposed to be the only com
plete copy in this country, and exceedingly rare, being printed in London in
1568. Ihis copy was presented to Dr. Bobbins by the late Duke of Sussex, in 1839.
A fine edition of Walton's Polyglott Bible, printed in London, in 1657, and a copy
of Dirken's Bible, printed by the authority of congress, now very rare, being the
first English Bible printed in this country. Dr. Robbins' collection of English
CONNECTICUT.
339
history is, perhaps, the most valuable in the country. It consists of 350 volumes,
among which are 90 folios.
Among the interesting relics of antiquity in the collection of the historical so
ciety arc the following : 1. The chest of Elder Wm. Brewster, which was brought
over, with the Pilgrims, in the Mayflower; also a copy of Cartwright's Commen
tary, in Latin, belonging to him, having his name written on the title-page. 2.
The dinner-pot belonging to Capt. Miles Standish, the military commander of the
colony at Plymouth. 3. The sword worn by Sergt. Hayden in the Pequot war;
also the sword of Capt. Turner, of the New Haven colony. 4. The drum anciently
used in Farinington on the Lord's day, to call the people together. 5. The tavern
sign of (Jen. Putnam, before the revolution, having a full length figure of lien.
Wolfe painted on both sides. 6. The vest and shirt worn by Col. Ledyard at the
storming of Fort Griswold, showing in both where the sword of the British officer
who killed him entered and passed out through his breast. Wads worth Athe-
neum is so named from the late Daniel Wads worth, Esq., who gave the site upon
which it stands.
Trinity College is situated on an eminence in the south-western part of the city,
about a mile from the Htate House. This institution is under the direction of the
Protestant Episcopal Church, and was incorporated in 1823, by the name of
"Washington College;" this name was afterward changed to Trinity. It has
three handsome stone edifices, viz : Seabury Hall, Jarvis Hall, and Brownell Hall.
The grounds include fourteen acres.
Colt's establishment for the manufacture of his famous repeating
fire arm, is the most perfect and
magnificent armory in the world
— an establishment started, in
the first place, by damming out
the waters of the Connecticut in
a time of freshet — which incor
porates, in buildings and ma
chinery, a full million of dollars,
and gives employment to from
600 to 800 men inside the main
building, and to numerous hands
outside, which dispenses annu
ally in wages alone, more than
$300,000; and manufactures
year by year, about 100,000
arms. The discipline of this
establishment, the beauty and
perfection of its various ma
chinery, and the bold and in
genious way in which masterly
principles are carried out, is rarely seen equaled in any country. It
adds much to the prosperity of the city.
The Retreat for the Insane stands on a commanding eminence half a mile S. W.
of the city. The grounds are beautifully laid out and ornamented, and the pros
pect from the eminence one of the most enchanting in the country, embracing
almost every variety of landscape. The grounds comprise 17 acres, beautifully
adorned with shrubbery and trees, and diversified with serpentine walks and car
riage roads. The institution accommodates 200 patients, and is considered a
model one of its highly beneficent class. It was founded in 1822.
The Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb is in the immediate vicinity of the city.
It was the first institution for the instruction of deaf mutes ever established in
22
CULT'S AKMORV.
340 CONNECTICUT.
this country. It was founded in 1817, chiefly through the instrumentality of the
late Rev. Thomas Gallaudet, LL.D., its first principal, who visited Europe for the
purpose of obtaining the requisite information. On his return, in 1816. he was
accompanied by a deaf mute, Mr. Lawrence Clerc, who had been a successful
teacher several years in Paris, under the Abbe Sicard. He was at once secured
as an associate instructor with Mr. Gallaudet, and the institution rose rapidly into
public favor; the number of seven deaf mutes, with which it commenced, soon in
creased to 140, from all parts of the union. Congress, in 1819, granted to the
asylum a township of land in Alabama, which has since been invested as a per
manent fund. The main building was erected in 1820. It is 130 feet by 50, and
four stories high. Several other buildings, workshops, etc., have been erected
since. The number of pupils averages about 200. This institution is an ornament
to the city, state and country, and an enduring monument of the Christian philan
thropy of its departed founder.
The Indian name of Hartford was Suckiag. A deed appears to
have been given by Sunckq.uassion, the sachem of the place, about
1636, to Samuel Stone and William Goodwin, who appear to have
acted in behalf of the first settlers. The first English settlement was
commenced in 1635, by Mr. John Steel and his associates from New-
town (now Cambridge) in Massachusetts. The main body of the set
tlers, with Mr. Hooker at their head, did not arrive until the succeed
ing year. They first called the place Newtown ; but in February the
general court gave it the name of Hartford, in honor of Mr. Stone
(the associate of Mr. Hooker) who was born in Hartford in England.
The first meeting-house in Connecticut for Christian worship, was
built in 1638, and some of the timbers are said to have been used in
the construction of the present Center Congregational Church. The
house of the first minister, Rev. Thomas Hooker, stood in School
street, on the high and romantic banks of Mill River; it had a porch
projecting in front, over which was his study.
The Dutch made some exploration of Connecticut River before the arrival of
the English, and threw up a small fort at the entrance of Mill River into the
Connecticut. This place is still called Dutch Point. The Dutch maintained a
distinct and separate government for several years, and resisted the laws of
the colony. Difficulties often arose between them and the English settlers,
until the year 1654, when an order from Parliament arrived, requiring the
Dutch should in all respects be treated as the declared enemies of the com
monwealth of England. In conformity to this order, the general court con
vened, and passed an act sequestering the Dutch lands, and property of all
kinds, at Hartford, for the benefit of the commonwealth.
After the Revolutionary war, Hartford became the residence of a number
of the most celebrated poets of the day. Among the most distinguished
were Trumbull, the author of the McFingal ; Barlow, the author of the
Columbiad; Dr. Hopkins, and Theodore Dwight, a caustic political writer.
The vein of satire and wit which appeared in many of their productions,
earned for them the appellation of "the Hartford ivits." Dr. Hopkins was
the principal projector of the Anarchiad, which was published, in portions,
in the Connecticut Magazine, during the years 1786 and 1787. It was a
mock critical account of a pretended ancient epic poem, interspersed with a
number of extracts from the supposed work, etc. The political views of the
authors were to support those designs which were then forming for an effi
cient federal constitution. The Echo began about the year 1791, and was a
CONNECTICUT. 341
work which attracted considerable attention at the time. It was a medley of
burlesque and satirical pieces, originally designed to hold up to derision a
taste for the bombast and bathos very prevalent among newspaper writers
of that day.
Theodore Dwight was unsparing in his political pasquinades, which became
very popular with the federalists, and greatly irritated the opposite party.
His lines in ridicule of a Jeifersonian festival, at New Haven, March, 1803,
were said and sung all over the country. We annex the first two stanzas :
"Ye tribes of Faction, join — "Old Deacon Bishop stands,
Your daughters and your wives : With well-befrizzled wig,
Moll Gary's come to town, File-leader of the bands,
To dance with Deacon Ives. To open with a jig.
Ye ragged throng With parrot-toe,
Of democrats, The poor old man
As thick as rats, Tries all he can
Come, join the song I To make it go."
The political acrimony of that day between the old federal and demo
cratic parties was intense. Nothing equal to it has been seen in the country
since. Dwight was afterward secretary of the noted Hartford convention.
The objects of this assemblage were misrepresented by its opponents, who
declared its designs treasonable, and its members traitors to the union ; and
the people, believing those charges, consigned many of its members to po
litical oblivion — some of whom were among the most talented and purest
men in New England. The truth in regard to the objects of the conven
tion and the motives of its members has since been made apparent. The
venerable Noah Webster, who, as one of its originators, was personally fa
miliar with its history and with its leading men,* long since testified^ fol-
*The majority of the members were aged men, and marked not only with the gravity of
years, but of the position which they held in society, for some of them had been governors,
some senators, some judges. They numbered in all twenty-six members. Goodrich has
given, in his Recollections, sketches of most of the members, from which work we derive
the following : Massachusetts furnished twelve members. Of these was George Cabot, the
president of the convention, who was a native of Salem, Mass., where he was born in 1752.
He had been a member of the United States Senate, and in 1798 was appointed by Wash
ington, the first secretary of the navy, but declined. " He was over six feet in bight, broad
shouldered, and of a manly step. His hair was white, for he was sixty ; his eye blue, his
complexion slightly florid. He seemed to me like Washington .... He was in fact Washing-
tonian in his whole air and bearing, as was proper for one who was Washington's friend,
and who had drank deep at the same fountain — that of the Revolution — of the spirit of
truth, honor and patriotism. He came to my uncle's almost every morning before the meet
ing of the convention, and I have never felt more the power of goodness and greatness, than
in witnessing the intercourse between these two men." Harrison Gray Otis, of Boston,
then in the zenith of his power and fame, the most conspicuous political character in New
England ; in 1817 he became a senator in congress. William Prescott, an eminent lawyer
of Pepperill, Mass.; the son of the Col. Prescott who commanded at Bunker Hill, and the
father of the historian. Stephen Longfellow, of Portland ; a lawyer, and father of the poet.
Nathan Dane, of Ipswich, Mass.; a lawyer, member of congress under the confederation,
and framer of the celebrated ordinance, of 1787, which forever prohibited slavery in all the
territory of the United States north-west of the Ohio River. He founded a professorship
of law in Harvard University. Timothy Bigelow, for eleven years speaker of the Massa
chusetts house of representatives, and father-in-law of Abbott Lawrence. Gen. Joseph
Lyman, of Northampton, Mass.; Joshua Thomas, many years judge of probate, of Plymouth
county, Mass.; Samuel Sumner Wilde, for years judge of the supreme court of Massachu
setts, and father-in-law of Caleb Gushing, late attorney general of the United States; Geo.
Bliss, a lawyer, of Springfield; Daniel Waldo, a merchant, of Worcester; Thomas Handy-
side Perkins, the princely merchant of Boston, the founder of the Perkins' Asylum for the
Blind, and whose many noble charities have made his name blessed; Hadijah Baylies, aid
to Washington in the Revolution.
Four members were from Rhode Island, who were among the first citizens of that state.
aniel Lyimin served through the Revolutionary war, and rose to the rank of major, and
342 CONNECTICUT.
lows: "All the reports which have been circulated respecting the evil de
signs of that convention, I know to be the foulest misrepresentations. In
deed, respecting the views of the disciples of Washington and the supporters
of his policy, many, and probably most, of the people of the United States,
was finally chief justice of the supreme court of Rhode Island. Samuel Ward was a soldier
of the Revolution, and was with Arnold in his inarch to Quebec. Benjamin Hazard was a
lawyer, and was elected and served in the legislature of Rhode Island sixty-two times !
Edward Manton was a merchant.
Connecticut furnished seven members, of whom Chauncey Goodrich was the head. He
was a lawyer; was a member of the United States house of representatives, also of the
senate, and from 1813 until his death, in 1815, lieutenant-governor of Connecticut. Mr.
Jefferson once playfully remarked to a friend, " That white-headed man from Connecticut
is the most difficult opponent to deal with in the senate of the United States." He was the
uncle of " Peter Parley." " James Hillhouse was one of the most remarkable men of his
time. He was born in 1754, entered upon the practice of the law, engaged in the Revolu
tionary war, became a member of congress, and was sixteen years a senator. He possessed
an iron frame, and his industry and devotion to his duty knew no bounds. He usually slept
but four or five hours in twenty-four. His personal appearance was remarkable : he was
over six feet high, of a large bony frame ; his complexion was swarthy, and his eye black
and keen. He was thought to have something of the Indian in his physiognomy and walk,
and he humorously favored this idea. He was once challenged by a southerner, for some
thing uttered in debate in the senate. He accepted the challenge, but added, that as the
choice of weapons fell to him, he selected tomahawks I He was full of wit, and it is said
that one day, as he was standing on the steps of the capitol with Randolph, a drove of astes
chanced to be going by — these animals being then raised in Connecticut for the south.
' There are some of your constituents!' said Randolph. 'Yes,' said Hillhouse ; 'they are yoing
to be schoolmasters in Virginia!'" Hillhouse was the man of taste who planted the New
Haven elms ;' the native American with Irish blood in his veins ; the man who, like Wash
ington, "never told a lie." John Treadwell was at one time governor of Connecticut, and
first president of the American Foreign Missionary Society. Zephaniah Swift was a mem
ber of congress, chief justice of the superior court of Connecticut from 1806 to 1819, and
the author of the celebrated "Swift's Commentaries." Nathaniel Smith, judge of the su
perior court of Connecticut. Calvin Goddard, also a judge, and the most successful lawyer
east of the Connecticut River, and for seventeen years mayor of Norwich. Roger Minot
Sherman, a nephew of the celebrated Roger Sherman. "He established himself as a law
yer at Fail-field, Conn., and rose to the first rank of his profession. He was distinguished
for acute logical powers, and great elegance of diction — words and sentences seeming to
flow from his lips as if he were reading from the Spectator. He was a man of refined per
sonal appearance and manners ; tall, and stooping a little in his walk ; deliberate in his
movements and speech, indicating circumspection, which was one of his characteristics.
His countenance was pale and thoughtful, his eye remarkable for a keen, penetrating ex
pression. Though a man of grave general aspect, he was not destitute of humor. He was
once traveling in Western Virginia, and stopping at a small tavern, was beset with ques
tions by the landlord, as to where he came from, whither he was going, etc. At last said
Mr. Sherman, ' Sit down, sir, and I will tell you all about it.' The landlord sat down.
'Sir,' said he, (1 am from the Blue Liyht State of Connecticut!' The landlord stared. ' / am
deacon in a Calvinwtic church I ' The landlord was evidently shocked. 'I was a member of
the Hartford convention!' This was too much for the democratic nerves of the landlord; he
speedily departed, and left his lodger to himself. Mr. Sherman filled various offices, and in
1840, became judge of the superior court. To a mind at once brilliant and profound, he
added the embellishments of literature and science and the graces of Christianity."
Sherman was quick in retort, and his wit keen as a Damascus blade. While pleading a
case in court, he described something as impossible of accomplishment as splitting a hair.
His antagonist, Perry S., of Woodbury, upon this twitched a hair from his head, and split
ting it, held it up triumphantly to the gaze of the court. " May it please your honor,"
gracefully retorted Sherman as, instantly springing to his feet, he addressed the judge, " I
said a hair — not a brittle!"
The members from New Hampshire were Benjamin West and Miles Alcott, and from Ver
mont, Win. Hale, jr., was the only representative. "One of the oldest, and in some re
spects the most remarkable, member of the convention," says Mr. Goodrich, "was Mr.
West, of New Hampshire. I recollect him distinctly, partly because of his saintly appear
ance, and partly because of the terms of affection and respect in which my uncle spoke of
him. He, too, was often at our house, and seldom have I seen a man who commanded such
ready love and admiration. He was then sixty-eight years old: his form tall, but slender;
his hair white, long and flowing; his countenance serene, his voice full of feeling and mel
ody. His appearance indicated the finest moral texture; but when his inind was turned to
CONNECTICUT. 343
in this generation, are made to believe far more falsehood than truth. I
speak of facts within my own personal knowledge."
"We present a brief history of the convention, from the "Incidents of
American History:"
During the second war with Great Britain, the people of the United States were divided
into two political parties : one condemning the war as unwise and unnecessary — the other
contending that it was just, and necessary for the maintenance of national honor. The op
position to the war was the greatest in the New England states, and during its continuance
this opposition was confirmed. Enlistments of troops were in some instances discouraged,
and dissentions arose between the general and state governments, respecting the command
of the militia, called out by order of the former to defend the sea-board. In October, 1814,
the legislature of Massachusetts appointed delegates to meet and confer with the delegates
from the other states of New England, or any of them, upon the subject of their public
grievances and concerns. The delegates met at Hartford, Conn., Dec. 15, 1815, and sat
nearly three weeks with closed doors. This convention consisted of delegates from the
states of Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island ; two members from New Hamp
shire, and one from Vermont ; these last were appointed at county meetings. After their
adjournment, the convention published an address, charging the national government with
pursuing measures hostile to the interests of New England, and recommending amend
ments to the federal constitution.
" These alterations consisted of seven articles — first, that representatives and direct
taxes shall be apportioned to the number of free persons ; second, that no new state shall
be admitted into the union without the concurrence of two-thirds of both houses; third,
congress shall not have power to lay an embargo for more than sixty days; fourth, that con
gress shall not interdict commercial intercourse, without the concurrence of two-thirds of
both houses ; fifth, that war shall not be declared without the concurrence of a similar ma
jority; sixth, that no person who shall be hereafter naturalized, shall be eligible as a mem
ber of the senate or house of representatives, or hold any civil office under the authority
of the United States; and, seventh, that no person shall be elected twice to the presidency,
nor the president be elected from the same state two terms in succession.
"The report of the convention concluded with a resolution, providing for the calling of
another convention, should the United States 'refuse their consent to some arrangement
whereby the New England states, separately, or in concert, might be empowered to assume
upon themselves the defense of their territory against the enemy,' appropriating a reason
able proportion of the public taxes for this purpose ; or, ' should peace not be concluded,
and the defense of the New England states be neglected as it has been since the com
mencement of the war.' "
The committee appointed to communicate these resolutions to congress, met at Wash
ington the news of peace; and owing to this event another convention was not called. The
proposed amendments of the constitution were submitted to the several states, and rejected
by all except Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Connecticut.
The celebrated Charter Oak stood on the beautiful elevation which rises
above the south meadows in Hartford, a few rods north of the ancient seat
of the Wyllys family, and on the grounds of Hon. I. W. Stuart. It was
supposed it might stand and flourish for another century; but in the year
1856 it was blown down in a severe gale, much to the regret of the public.
a subject of interest, his brow flashed with tokens of that high intellectual power which dis
tinguished him. His character and his position were well displayed in a single passage of
his history : ' He was chosen a member of congress under the old confederation ; a member
of the convention which framed the constitution of his adopted state, and a member of
congress under the constitution ; he was appointed attorney-general and judge of probate,
and yet all these offices he refused, owing to his aversion to public life, and his sincere, un
ambitious love of domestic peace and tranquillity.' His great abilities, however, were not
hidden in a napkin. He devoted himself to the practice of the law, which he pursued with
eminent success, for the space of thirty years. It was in the evening of his days that he
accepted his first prominent public station, and that was as member of the Hartford conven
tion. This he did, under a conviction that it was a period of great difficulty and danger,
and he felt that duty called upon him to sacrifice his private comfort to public exigencies.
Who will believe that man to have been a conspirator, or that the people who designated
him for this place were traitors f"
344
CONNECTICUT.
The trunk measured 21 feet in circumference. The cavity, which in 1686
was the asylum for the charter, was near the roots, and was large enough to
admit a child. Within eight years af
ter, that cavity had closed, "as if it had
fulfilled the divine purpose for which
it had been reared." The history
which has made this oak so famous, is
as follows :
"Sir Edmund Andross, being appointed the
first governor-general over New England, ar
rived in Boston in December, 1686. From
this place he wrote to the colony of Connecti
cut to resign their charter, but without suc
cess. ' The assembly met as usual, in Octo
ber, and the government continued according
to charter, until the last of the month. About
this time, Sir Edmund, with his suite and
more than sixty regular troops, came to Hart
ford when the assembly were sitting, and de
manded the charter, and declared the government under it to be dissolved. The assembly
were extremely reluctant and slow with respect to any resolve to surrender the charter, or
with respect to any motion to bring it forth. The tradition is, that Governor Treat strongly
represented the great expense and hardships of the colonists in planting the country ; the
blood and treasure which they had expended in defending it, both against the savages and
foreigners ; and that it was like giving up his life, now to surrender the patent and privi
leges so dearly bought and so long enjoyed. The important affair was debated and kept in
suspense until the evening, when the charter was brought and laid upon the table where the
assembly were sitting. By this time great numbers of people were assembled, and men suf
ficiently bold to enterprise whatever might be necessary or expedient. The lights were in-
stantly'extinguished, and one Captain Wadsworth, of Hartford, in the most silent and se
cret manner, carried off the charter, and secreted it in a large hollow tree, fronting the
house of Hon. Samuel Wyllys, then one of the magistrates of the colony. The people all
appeared peaceable and orderly. The caudles were officiously relighted, but the patent
was gone, and no discovery could be made of it, or the person who carried it away.' "
CHARTER OAK.
The inhabitants of Hartford, in 1837, raised a handsome obelisk in the
ancient burying ground back of the Center Church, on which are inscribed
the names of the first settlers of the town. The an
cient monuments were at this time repaired and reset,
and numerous shade and ornamental trees planted.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments
in this yard :
Here lyeth the body of Mr. David Gardiner, of Gardiner's Island,
deceased Ivly 10, 1689, in the fifty-fovrth year of his age. Well,
sick, dead, in one hovr's space.
Engrave the remembrance of death on thine heart,
When as thov dost see how swiftly hovrs depart.
The above inscription is on a slab of plain red sand
stone. David Gardiner, whose death it records, was
the first white child born in Connecticut. He removed,
it appears, with his father, Lyon Gardiner, to Gardi
ner's Island, and, coming to Hartford — probably on
public business — died in a sudden and unexpected
manner. HAETFOBD MONUMENT.
CONNECTICUT.
345
The monument erected to the memory of the first settlers is inscribed as
follows :
IN MEMORY OF THE FIRST SETTLERS OF HARTFORD.
John Haynes,
William Ruscoe,
George Stocking,
Edward Elmer,
Thomas Hooker,
Timothy Stanly,
Joseph Mygatt,
Francis Andrews,
George Wyllis,
Richard Webb,
Nathaniel Ely,
Richard Church,
Edward Hopkins,
William Andross,
William Bloomfield,
James Cole,
Mathew Allyn,
Samuel Wakeinan,
Thomas Judd,
Zachariah Field,
John Webster,
Jeremy Adams,
William Hill,
John Skinner,
William Whiting,
Richard Lyman,
Richard Lord,
Joseph Easton,
John Talcott,
William Butler,
William Hyde,
Thomas Hales,
Andrew Warner,
Thoma.s Lord,
William Kelsey,
Richard Olmsted,
William Pentrey,
Matthew Marvin,
John Arnold,
Samuel Hales,
William Westwood,
Gregory Watterton,
Richard Butler,
Richard Risley,
James Olmsted,
Andrew Bacon,
Arthur Smith,
Thomas Alcott,
Thomas Hosmer,
John Barnard,
Robert Day,
Robert Bartlett,
Nathaniel Ward,
Richard Goodman,
John Maynard,
Thomas Selden,
William Wadsworth,
Nathaniel Richards,
Seth Grant,
Thomas Root,
John White,
John Pratt,
William Heyton,
William Parker,
John Steele,
Thomas Birchwood,
Thomas Spencer,
John Wilcox,
Thomas Scott,
George Graves,
Thomas Stanton,
Samuel Greenhill,
William Goodwin
John Clark,
John Baysee,
Benjamin Burr,
Thomas Stanly,
William Gibbons,
John Hopkins,
Ozias Goodwin,
Samuel Stone,
John Crow,
William Pratt,
Richard Seymour,
Stephen Hart,
Edward Stebbing,
Nicholas Clark,
Thomas Bunce,
William Spencer,
James Ensign,
Thomas Bull,
John Bidwell,
John Moody,
George Steele,
John Marsh,
Clement Chaplin.
William Lewis,
Stephen Post,
William Hotton,
This monument was
A. D. 1837.
erected by the Ancient Burying Ground Association of Hartford
AN EPITAPH ON M SAMUEL STONE, DECEASED YE 61 YEARE OF HIS AGE IVLY 20 1663.
New England's glory & her radiant Crowne,
Was he who now on softest bed of downe,
Till glorious resurrection morne appeare,
Doth safely, sweetly sleepe in Jesus here,
In nature's solid art, <fc reasoning well,
Tis knowne, beyond compare, he did excel j
Errors corrupt, by sinnewous dispute,
He did oppvgne, & clearly them confute ;
Above all things he Christ his Lord preferrd,
Hartford, thy richest jewel 's here interd.
In memory of the Rev. THOMAS HOOKEUI, who, in 1636, with his assistant, Mr. Stone, re
moved to Hartford with about 100 persons, where he planted ye first church in Connecticut,
an eloquent, able and faithful minister of Christ. He died July 7th, JEt. LXI.
The following are copied from monuments in the burying ground north
of the city on the Windsor road :
Beneath this monument are deposited the remains of the Rev. NATHAN STRONG, D. D.,
Pastor of the Church in the First Ecclesiastical Society in Hartford. Endowed with rare
talents, and eminent for learning and eloquence, he zealously devoted himself to the cause
of Religion ; and after many years of faithful services, approved and blessed by the Holy
Spirit, he fell asleep in Jesus, deeply lamented by his triends, the people of his charge, and
the church of Christ. "Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord, for they rest from their
labors."
On the opposite side. — This monument is erected by the First Ecclesiastical Society in Hart
ford, in memory of the Rev. Nathan Strong, D. D., born 16th October, 1748, ordained 5th
January, 1774, died 25th December, 1816.
This monument, erected as a tribute of filial affection, is sacred to the memory of the Rev.
JAMKS COGSWELL, D. D. He was born Jan. 6, 1720, and died Jan. 2, 1807. Sixty years a
faithful laborer in the vineyard of his Lord j eminently distinguished by those mild and
CONNECTICUT.
humble virtues which adorn the Christian character, as he lived, so he died, a shining
example of faith. When his dearest friends were forgotten, CHRIST still lived in his remem
brance. He expired, triumphantly exclaiming, "I do remember him, he is my God and my
Redeemer."
United in death, here rest the remains of MASON F. COGSWELL, M. D., who died Dec.
17th, 1830, aged 69 years — and of ALICE COGSWELL, who died Dec. 30, 1830, aged 25 years
— the father distinguished for his private virtues and public spirit, and his professional
worth ; and the daughter (though deprived of hearing and speech), for her intellectual at
tainments and loveliness of character. The American Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb,
which, under Providence, owes its origin to the father's tenderness toward his child and his
sympathy for her fellow sufferers, will stand an enduring monument to their memory, when
this shall have perished.
Windsor, the central part of which is about seven miles from Hartford, is
the first town in Connecticut in which any English settlement was made.
This was in 1633,* when William Holmes and others erected a house at the
mouth of Farmington River. It stood on the river bank, about two miles
south-east of the First Congregational Church. The meadow lying in the
vicinity of its site, is to this day called Plymouth Meadow. In 1634 or '35,
the Dutch governor at New Amsterdam (New York), sent a force to drive
Holmes from the river. A party of seventy men assaulted the Plymouth
house at Windsor, but it was so well fortified, and the men who kept it so
resolute, that it could not be taken without bloodshed. They therefore carne
to a parley, and returned in peace.
One of the first ships which came over to New England in 1630, brought over the Rev.
Mr. John Wareham, Mr. John Maverick, Mr. Rossiter, Mr. Ludlow, Mr. Henry Wolcott,
and others of Mr. Wareham's church and congregation, who first settled the town of
Windsor. This was considered an honorable company. Mr. Rossiter and Mr. Ludlow
were magistrates ; Mr. Wolcott had a great estate, and was a man of superior abilities.
Mr. Wareham had been a celebrated minister in Exeter, the capital of the county of Dev
onshire. The people who came with him were from the counties of Devonshire, Dorset
shire, and Somersetshire.
The original boundaries of the town of Windsor were very extensive, being about forty-
six miles in circumference, lying on both sides of the Connecticut River. Within the lim
its of the town, there were ten distinct tribes or sovereignties. About the year 1670, it
was estimated that there were in the town nineteen Indians to one Englishman. They had
a large fort a little north of the plat on which the first meeting house was erected ; but, in
the language of Ossian,
" The chiefs of other times are departed. They have gone without their fame." An
other race has arisen. "The people are like the waves of the ocean; like the leaves of
woody Morven, they pass away in the rustling blast, and other leaves lift their green heads
on high."
For several years after the settlement of Windsor, the people were harassed with
wars. Such was the fear which agitated the minds of the inhabitants, that they repaired
to a fortress at night, and slept with their arms by their side, and used to go to labor in the
fields in companies, prepared for battle. It was the common practice on the Lord's day to
go to meeting armed.
The following is a list of the names of the settlers of Windsor, which appear on the
records of the town in 1640 :
Henry Wolcott, Esq., George Phelps, John Taylor, John Hillyer,
William Phelps, Thomas Ford, Eltwed Pomeroy, Thomas Barber,
John Whitefield, Edward Griswold, William Hosford, Nicolas Palmer,
Humphrey Pinney, John Bissell, Aaron Cook, Thomas Buckland,
Deacon John Moore, Thomas Holcomb, Elias Parkman, Isaac Sheldon,
Deacon Wm. Gaylord, Daniel Clark, Thomas Stoughton, Robert Watson,
Lieut. Walter Filer, Peter Tilton, Owen Tudor, Stephen Terry,
# A full and most valuable history of ancient Windsor, by Dr. R. H. Stiles, of Brooklyn,
N. Y., has been recently published.
CONNECTICUT. 347
Matthew Grant, Messrs. — Newberry, Capt. John Mason, Bray Rosseter,
Thomas Dibble, Roger Ludlow, Esq., Matthew Allen, Thomas Dewey,
Samuel Phelps, Joseph Loomis, Richard Oldage, William Hurlburt,
Nathan Gillet, John Loomis, Henry Stiles, Roger Williams,
Richard Vore, John Porter, William Hayden, Thomas Bascomb,
Abraham Randall, William Hill. George Philips, Nicolas Denslow,
Bigot Eglestone, James Marshall, Return Strong, Thomas Thornton.
Rev. John Wnrehnm, the first minister at Windsor, died April 1, 1670. " He was abou
forty years minister in New England ; six at Dorchester, and 34 at Windsor. He was dis
tinguished for his piety, and the strictest morals ; yet at times was subject to great gloom
iness and religious melancholy. Such were his-doubts and fears, at some times, that when
he administered the Lord's Supper to his brethren, he did not participate with them, fearing
that the seals of the covenant did not belong to him. It is said that be was the first min
ister in New England who used notes in preaching, yet he was applauded by his hearers as
one of the most animated and energetic preachers of his day. He was considered as one of
the principal fathers and pillars of the church of Connecticut." In 1639, the Rev. Ephraim
Huit was installed as Teacher to the church at Windsor, over which Mr. Wareham was
pastor. At this period it was the opinion of the principal divines in New England, that in
every church completely organized, there should be a pastor, teacher, ruling elder, and dea
cons". It was the general opinion that the pastor's work consisted principally in exhorta
tions ; but the teacher's business was to teach, explain and defend the doctrines of Christ
ianity.
Roger Wolcott, governor of Connecticut, was born in this town, Jan. 4, 1679. " His pa
rents lived in a part of the country which suffered much from the Indians, and in the town
there was neither a schoolmaster nor minister, so that Mr. Wolcott was not a member of a
common school for a single day in his life. When he was twelve years of age, he was
bound as an apprentice to a mechanic. At the age of twenty-one, when the laws permit
ted him to enjoy the fruits of his labors, he established himself on the east side of the Con
necticut River, in the same town in which he was born, where, by the blessings of God
niton his industry and frugality, he acquired what was considered as a plentiful fortune.
He was an eminent proof of the power of talents and integrity, in a free country, in rais
ing one to distinction, notwithstanding the disadvantages of education and of birth. He
rose by degrees to the highest military and civil honors. In the expedition against Cana
da, in 1711, he was commissary of the Connecticut forces, and at the capture of Louis-
burg, in 1745, he bore the commission of major-general. He was successively a member
of the assembly and of the council, judge of the county court, deputy governor, chief
judge of the superior court, and from 1751 to 1754, governor. He died May 17, 1767, in
the b9th year of his age."
The following inscriptions are from monuments in the ancient
burying ground in Windsor ; that of Mr. Huit is believed to be the
oldest in the state :
Heere lyeth Ephriam Hvit, sometimes Teacher to ye chvrch of Windsor, who died Sept.
4, 1644
Who when hee lived wee drew ovr vitall breath,
Who when hee dyed his dying was ovr death,
Who was ye stay of state, ye chvrches staff,
Alas, the times forbid an epitaph.
Here vnder the body of Henry Wolcott, sometimes a Maiestrate of this Ivrisdiction, who
dyed ye 30th day of May, ^ ( galvtig Ifl55>
1 Aetatis 77.
To the memory of Oliver Elleicorth, LL.D., an assistant in the Council, and a judge of the
Superior Court of the State of Connecticut. A member of the Convention which formed, and
of the State Convention of Connecticut, which adopted the Constitution of the United States.
Senator and Chief Justice of the United States ; one of the Envoys extraordinary and Min
isters Plenipotentiary, who made the convention, of 1800, between the United States and
the French Republic. Amiable and exemplary in all the relations of the domestic, social,
and Christian character. Pre-eminently useful in all the offices he sustained, whose great
Ulents, under the guidance of inflexible integrity, consummate wisdom, and enlightened
zeal, placed him among the first of the illustrious statesmen who achieved the independence,
and established the independence of the American Republic. Born at Windsor, April 29,
1745, and died Nov. 26, 1807.
348 CONNECTICUT.
South Windsor, originally within the limits of Windsor, and more
recently in East Windsor, is situated on the east side of Connecticut
River, six miles N. from Hartford. The "Theological Institute
of Connecticut" was located here in 1834. The south part of this
town was the seat of the Podunk Indians ; their remains are ribw oc
casionally disinterred by the plow-share. At BisselPs Ferry, on the
Connecticut River, near the mouth of the Scantic is a well, which is
supposed, from the manner and materials of which it is constructed,
to have been made before the English came to Connecticut.
South Windsor is distinguished as the birth-place of several promi
nent men. Jonathan Edwards, who has been called the Euclid of di
vines, was born in this town about a
mile north of the Congregational
Church. John Fitch, the inventor
of the steamboat, was born near the
south line of the town. Gov. Roger
Wolcott, distinguished in the French
war, resided in this town, and his son
Oliver Wolcott, the signer of the
Declaration of Independence, wras
born here. Though remote from
the scenes of conflict, yet this place
is rich in reminiscences of the revolu
tion. Many prisoners were sent
here for safe keeping. Among these
SOUTH VIEW OF FRANKLIN OAK. ixr'iv Tii 1 l* xi i
were William Franklin, the royal
governor of New Jersey, the son of Dr. Franklin.
Gov. Franklin was quartered at the house of Lieut. Diggin, about a mile south
of the Congregational Church. He was well provided with servants, and lived in
good style. He is said to have been extravagantly fond of sour punch. He had a
favorite place of resort at a place about 100 rods back from the street, a few yards
distant from Podunk Brook, in a pasture now owned by Mr. E. Pinney. Here he
had a bower where he prepared his favorite beverage, which his French visitors
called '' one grand contradiction." The view of the Franklin oak, (on which he cut
an inscription), was taken about 75 paces westward of the bridge over the Podunk;
the spring is about 200 paces north-west of the tree, at the root of a small maple
on the bank : the old moss covered barrel is still standing, and as in ancient times
is filled with sparkling water. The following is the inscription on the oak, which
remained legible for many years after Franklin left the town:
To THE WOODMAN.
Woodman ! stay your hand,
Let not the ax's stroke,
Deprive this lovely land,
Of this monumental oak !
Signed,
WILLIAM FRANKLIN.
The British and the German, or Hessian prisoners, as they were called, were
quartered in such families as were willing to receive them. Gen. Hamilton was
quartered at the house owned by E. Kilbourn. Gen. Prescott, who was captured
by Col. Barton, was quartered at the residence of F. W. Grant, upward of a mile
north of the Congregational Church. In the spring of 1788, after. Gen. LaFayette
abandoned the project of invading Canada, he made his headquarters, for a time,
CONNECTICUT. 349
in South Windsor, at the house of Mr. Porter, three fourths of a mile below the
Congregational Church. It was provided for defense by port-holes for muskets.
By LaFayette' s suggestion, the British and Hessian prisoners were employed in
setting out many of the elm trees now standing in the street. LaFayette held one
end of the line while Mr. Porter held the other, and the trees were planted in lines
corresponding -with the road.
While LaFayette resided here, he was visited by Gen. Washington. In order
to do honor to the occasion, LaFayette requested Lieut. King to appear at the hour
appointed, with a company of mounted men. He succeeded in mustering 42 men.
This troop had but two saddles among them, and as a substitute used bags and
sheep-skins. Some carried guns, others used canes for swords. LaFayette intro
duced the company as follows: " Gen. Washington, I presume you are acquainted
with this troop." The general replied, "I do not remember that 1 ever before
had the honor of seeing them." Much to Washington's amusement, LaFayette
expressed his surprise, remarking, "that they had seen much service, and were
called the Old Testament Guard."
The southern part of South Windsor was the seat of the Podunk tribe of In
dians : it was on the west side of the street on the bank rising above the mead
ows where the Podunk crosses the main street.'34'
Wethersfield, four miles south from Hartford, is claimed by some to
be the oldest settlement in Connecticut, as a few men from Watertown,
Mass., came to this place in 1634, and erected a few huts, where they
made out to subsist during the winter. It is probable that most of
the settlers of Wethersfield caine round from Boston by water, in
1635, and arrived before the Windsor and Hartford settlers, who
passed through the wilderness, and did not reach the Connecticut un
til the 9th of November. This appears probable from the tradition
which is still preserved, "that the first white woman who ever set
foot in Connecticut, was a woman by the name of BARBER." The tra
dition is, when the settlers arrived at the landing place, some conten
tion arose as to who should first land on the shore ; while the com
pany were contending, Miss, or Mrs. Barber dextrously sprang for
ward, reached the shore, and had the honor of first treading the
soil.
Wethersfield is a rich agricultural town, the meadows on the Con
necticut being extensive, beautiful, and productive. The cultivation
of onions has long been an important branch of business here : the la
bor is mostly performed by female hands. Large quantities of these
vegetables are exported to the southern states and to the West Indies.
The village is well built, and the house is still standing where Wash
ington made his quarters. Within its walls it is believed that the
plan was matured, which resulted in the capture of Cornwallis, at
Yorktown, and the establishment of American independence.
The State Prison of Connecticut was erected in this town in 1826, and the
prisoners from Newgate Prison, in Granby, were removed here the next year.
The prison is situated on the south margin of the Cove, which sets back
from Connecticut River, at the north end of Wethersfield village. The
buildings of the institution form nearly a quadrangle; on the south side of
*Dr. H. C. Gillette, of this town, has quite a number of Indian, Revolutionary, and other
relics, and has made many and valuable historical collections, relative to its history and an
tiquities, with reference to publication.
350 CONNECTICUT.
which stands the building which is more properly the prison. The east,
north, and west sides of the quadrangle are formed by a wall 20 feet high.
Within the yard are situated two ranges of shops, in which the convicts per
form their daily labor.
The following unusual circumstance is said to have taken place years since in
the western section of Wethersfield. A Mr. A , who resided there, and who
was a very religious and conscientious man, married one of the most ill-natured
and troublesome women that could be found in the vicinity. This occasioned
universal surprise wherever it was known, and one of the neighbors ventured to
ask him the reasons which governed his choice. Mr. A , replied, that having
had but little or no trouble in the world, he was fearful of becoming too much at
tached to things of time and sense. And he thought by experiencing some afflic
tions, he should become more weaned from the world, and, therefore, he married
Buch a woman as he thought would accomplish the object. The best part of the story
is, that the wife, hearing of the reasons why he married her. was much offended, and
out of revenge, became one of the most pleasant and dutiful wives in the town, de
claring that she was not going to be made a pack horse, to carry her husband to
heaven.
The inscription which follows, is on a horizontal slab of sand-stone, placed
over the remains of the Beadle family, who were shockingly murdered by a
father and husband. He appears to have been led to this horrid crime from
losses in trade, and the fear of himself and family becoming dependent.
Here lie interred, Mrs. LYDIA BEADLE, aged 32 years. Ansell, Lothrop, Elizabeth, Lydia
and Mary Beadle, her children. The eldest aged 11 years, the youngest 6 years. Who, on
the morning of the llth of Dec., A. D. 1782, fell by the hands of WILLIAM BEADLE, an in
furiated man, who closed the horrid sacrifice of his wife and children with his own destruc
tion.
Pale round their grassy tombs bedew'd with tears,
Flit the thin forms of sorrows and of fears ;
Soft sighs responsive swell to plaintive chords,
And [ndignation* half unsheath their swords.
MIDDLETOWN is beautifully situated on the western bank of Con
necticut River, 31 miles above its mouth ; 15 miles S. from Hartford,
24 N. E. from New Haven, and 35 N. W. from New London. It is
connected with the Hartford and New Haven Railroad, by a branch
railroad of 10 miles in length.
Middletown was incorporated in the year 1784, and contains a court
house, custom house, 10 churches, the Wesleyan University, several
academies, and about 5,000 inhabitants. The site is principally a gen
tle declivity, having a gradual ascent back from the river. The more
elevated portion, west from the Main street, is adorned with some of the
most splendid mansions in the state, having an advantage of position,
for beauty and extent of prospect, rarely equaled.
The Wesleyan University was founded in 1831, and is an institution of
great promise, under the patronage of the Methodist Episcopal Church.
The college buildings are finely situated on an eminence 160 feet above, and
half a mile from the river. The site commands a view of the town, and of
a most beautiful country.
The college buildings were originally built for, and occupied by the Amer
ican Literary, Scientific and Military Academy, under Capt. Alden Partridge.
The academy, having failed in its operations, the buildings were vacated and
left on the hands of the proprietors. At this time several annual confer-
CONNECTICUT
351
ences of the Methodist Episcopal Church were preparing to establish a col
lege under the patronage of said church, and were holding their privilege of
location in the market, for the purpose of securing a liberal local subscrip
tion. To secure this privilege, the proprietors of the academy oifered their
South-eastern view of Public Buildings in Middletown.
The North Congregational Church and Middletown Bank appear in the central part ; the custom house
and postoffice and MacDonough House on the right ; the court house on the left.
buildings as a gratuity for the use of a college or university for ever, on con
dition that there should be an additional endowment raised of $40,000.
The citizens of Middletown and its vicinity, by public grant and private
subscription, pledged about $18,000 of the endowment. These offers, to
gether with other local advantages, fixed the university in its present location.
In 1650, a committee was appointed to explore the lands at Mattabeset, the
Indian name for Middletown. This committee reported that subsistence
might be obtained for fifteen families. In the course of the year, a settle
ment was commenced near the Connecticut, north and south of the Little
River. In 1654, there were probably about thirty families; in 1670, the
number of families was fifty-two. The principal planters were from Eng
land, Hartford and Wethersfield. There was also a considerable accession
from Rowley, Chelmsford and Woburn, in Massachusetts. A portion of the
lands in Middletown were given by Sowheag, the great sachem, to John
Haynes, for some time governor of Connecticut ; probably before any settle
ment was made in the town. Sowheag's fort, or castle, was on the high
ground in the west part of the city of Middletown, still called from this cir
cumstance, " Indian Hill," about three fourths of a mile north-west of the
court house, where he was able, by means of his whistle, to call around him,
it is said, as many as 500 warriors.
The ancient burying ground in Middletown was laid out in 1650; it is
situated in the north part of the city, immediately on the bank of Connecti
cut River. The following inscriptions are from monuments in this yard :
352
CONNECTICUT.
Here's a cedar tall, gently wafted o'er
From Great Britain's Isle to this western shore,
Near fifty years crossing the ocean wide,
Yet 's anchored in the grave from storm or tide,
Yet remember the body onely here,
His blessed sovl fixt in a higher sphere.
Here lies the body of GILES HAMLIN, 'squire. Adged 67 years, who departed this life the
first day of September, Anno Dom. 1689.
In memory of Mrs. DESIRE, late wife of Mr. Abner Ely, died Sept. 1st, 1764, aged 48
years.
A loving wife, and tender mother,
Left this base world to enjoy the other.
The following inscriptions are from monuments in the College Cemetery :
WILBUR FISK, S.T.D., First President of the Wesleyan University. Born August 31st,
1792. Died Feby 22d, 1839.
STKPHEN OLIN, D.D. LL.D. President of the Wesleyan University. Born in Leicester,
Vt., March 2d, 1797, died in Middletown, August 16th, 1851, aged 54 years. A man of em
inent talents, varied acquirements and extensive travel ; a judicious and successful Instruc
tor; a powerful preacher. He consecrated all his gifts to the Cross, counting it his chief
glory to minister the Gospel of Jesus Christ. A stricken church, a bereaved family, a large
circle of loving Friends, mourn the loss of the Minister, Husband, Father, and Friend but
rejoice over him as more than conqueror through him that loved us. " Him that overcom-
eth will I make a pillar in the temple of my God."
Old 'Saybrook, one of the most ancient places in Connecticut, lies at the
mouth of Connecticut River, on the line of the New Haven and New Lon
don Railroad, 32 miles
from New Haven, 18 from
New London, and about
40 from Hartford. In
Oct., 1635, John Win-
throp, the son of the gov
ernor of Massachusetts,
arrived at Boston with a
commission from Lord
Say and others, to erect a
fort at the mouth of the
Connecticut, to secure the
river and territory from
the Dutch. In Nov.,
1635, Mr. Winthrop sent
two small vessels, with an
engineer, workmen and
materials to build a fort
there. The place they
LADY FENWICK'S TOMB. selected was on the west
bank of the river, and they gave the settlement the name of Saybrook, com
bining the titles of the two principal patentees, Say and Brook.
In the summer of 1638, Col. Fenwick, one of the patentees arrived from
England, and took charge of the fort. From this time to Dec. 1644, he su
perintended and governed the inhabitants, and then sold the jurisdiction to
the Connecticut Colony. In 1648, during his residence here, his wife, the
Lady Ann Boteler, or Butler, the daughter of an English nobleman, died ;
whereupon he soon afterward returned to England, and was appointed one
CONNECTICUT. 353
of the judges of Charles I. The monument of Lady Fenwick is about 30
or 40 rods south-west of the remains of the fort, on a piece of rising ground,
called " tomb hill." It is of coarse sandstone, and no inscription is to be
seen upon it. It stands upon a bleak and exposed situation, some five or
six rods from the river, and it may be truly said :
" The dark brown years " have passed over it ; she sleeps alone far from the land of her
fathers, " at the noise of the sounding surge! " Her tomb is seen by the mariner, as he
passes by on the dark rolling wave."
"Saybrook Point is a peninsula, circular in its form, and connected with flie main
land by a narrow neck, over which the tide sometimes flows. From this place to
the fort, on the eastern extremity of the peninsula, the distance is about one mile.
On the neck, a palisado was anciently formed from the river to the cove, to secure
Saybrook Point from any sudden incursion of the Indians. The soil on the penin
sula is light and sandy, and the elevation of the highest part is about twenty feet.
Being nearly destitute of trees and shrubbery, it presents to the beholder a bleak
and naked aspect.
The land on the point was laid out with care, as it was expected to become the
residence of great men, and the center of great business and wealth. It is said
that Oliver Cromwell, with other men then equally distinguished, actually em
barked in the Thames, to occupy this ground. Westward of the fort a square was
laid out, on which it was intended houses should be erected for Cromwell, Pymm,
Hasselrig, and Hampden, the most illustrious commoners in English annals, who
were expected from Europe ; while a square still further west was reserved for
public uses.
About halfway between the palisado was erected the first building designed for
the collegiate school, since named Yale College. This building was one story in
hight, and about eighty feet in length. Some remains of the cellar, "over which
the plowshare has passed," are still visible. Fifteen commencements were held at
Saybrook. More than sixty young men were graduated, most of whom entered
the ministry, and some of them became characters of distinguished usefulness and
excellence. To educate young men of piety and talents for the ministry, was the
leading design of this institution. It was desired by the founders and others, that
the churches should have a public standard or confession of faith, agreeable to
which the instruction of the college should be conducted. This led to the adop
tion of the Saybrook Platform, after the commencement in 1708.
In 1675, it was discovered that Maj. Andross was about to make an invasion on
the colony, and demand a surrender of its most important posts to the government
of the Duke of York. A party of militia, under Capt. Bull, were immediately sent
to Saybrook. Andross, after making a show of his force on board of several armed
sloops, requested a conference, which was granted, and he was allowed to come on
shore. Attempting to read his commission and the duke's patent, Capt. Bull, in
his majesty's name, forbade it. When Andross' clerk attempted to persist in the
reading, the captain repeated his command with such energy of voice and mean
ing in his countenance, as convinced the major that it was not safe to proceed.
Gov. Andross, pleased with the bold and soldier-like appearance of the captain,
said, " What's your name ?" He replied, "My name is Bull, sir." " Bull, said
the governor, "It is a pity that your horns are not tipped with silver." Finding
the colony resolute in defending their chartered rights, Andross gave up his de
sign, and sailed for Long Island.
NEW HAVEN, the semi- capital of Connecticut, is beautifully situated
on a wide plain, at the head of a harbor or bay, which extends inland
four miles from Long Island Sound; and is nearly environed on all
sides but the south, by an amphitheater of hills ; two of the most
prominent, presenting perpendicular precipices, are from three to
four hundred feet in hight, and are called East and West Rock. It
is distant 76 miles N. E. from New York, 160 S. W. of Boston, and
354
CONNECTICUT.
34 from Hartford. Population in 1840, 14,390; in 1850, 22,529; in
1855, 31,549; now about 40,000.
The city was originally laid out in a plat half a mile square, which
was divided into nine squares. As the population increased these
were afterward subdivided into smaller ones : from the original plot
i
S. E. view of the Public Square or Green, New Haven.
The State House and First Congregational Church are seen in the central part; the North Congrega
tional and Methodist Churches on the right; the Episcopal Church, and a section of the Yale College buildings
on the left.
the city has extended in all directions. There are several public
squares in the city. The central one, commonly called the " Green,"
is hardly equaled by any other in the union. It contains the State
House, three churches, and is surrounded on all sides by rows of
stately elms. The superior advantages to be found in New Haven for
the education of both sexes, and the high standing of the resident pro
fessors, have given the place a wide literary reputation.
New Haven has the reputation of being one of the handsomest
cities in the United States. A large proportion of the houses have
courtyards in front, and gardens in the rear ; and there is probably no
city so extensively ornamented with trees ; the principal are the elm
and maple. From their great abundance in the streets, New Haven
CONNECTICUT.
355
has been familiarly called the " City of Elms." The prominent public
edifices are the college buildings, the State House, upward of 23
churches, the Young's Men's Institute, the Custom House, free public
school-houses, 8 incorporated banks, railroad station-house in the
heart of the city, State Hospital, Alms House, Orphan Asylum, seve
ral first class hotels, etc.
The harbor of New Haven is protected from winds, but it is rather
shallow'. To remedy its defects, a wharf has been constructed, ex
tending into the bay for nearly a mile. The harbor is formed by the
entrance of three rivers — Quinnipiac and Mill Rivers on the east, and
West River on the west. The commercial business of the city is con
siderable, particularly with the West Indies ; and by the recent con-
ftruction of railroads in various directions, its general business has
been much extended. The manufacturing business of the city is im
portant, particularly that of carriage making, of which there are about
fifty establishments, excelling in amount any other city in North
America.
Yale College Buildings, in outline.
The sketch shows the principal range of College buildings, extending about fifty rods fronting the pub
lic square on the east. The towers of the library building and graduates' hall, with portions of other col
legiate buildings, are seen rising in the rear. The trees in the college-yard are omitted.
YALE COLLEGE, from which New Haven derives much of its celeb
rity, was founded in 1700, and is one of the oldest and most distin
guished literary institutions in this country ; and more students are
annually educated here than in any other in the United States. The
principal edifices of this institution are of brick, four stories in
hight, face the entire length of the western boundary of the green,
and present an imposing aspect. The library building, a Gothic struc
ture, and the graduates' hall, of Portland free-stone, are large and
noble buildings. These, with the Trumbull gallery, and other struc
tures connected with the college, are situated immediately in the rear
of the front line of the main buildings. The general management of
the college is committed to a corporation, consisting of the president,
the governor and lieutenant-governor of the state, the six oldest mem
bers of the state senate, and ten clergymen chosen by the clerical part
of the corporation. The faculty to whom is entrusted the government
23
356 CONNECTICUT.
and instruction of the students, consists of the president, the pro
fessors and tutors. The whole course of instruction occupies four
years. In each year are three terms or sessions. Commencement is
held the last Thursday in July.
The college library contains within its walls upward of 52,000 volumes.
The miner alogical cabinet contains the great cabinet of Col. Gibbs, consisting
of 10,000 specimens, collected by him, together with large subsequent addi
tions. The Trumbull gallery, erected in 1831, contains the paintings of Col.
John Trumbull, the aid of Washington, and the father of American histori
cal painting. His remains, with those of his wife, are interred in a vault be
neath this building. Beside eight principal subjects of the American Revo
lution, there are nearly 250 portraits of persons distinguished during that
period, painted by him from life.
The burying ground at the north-western corner of the original town-plot
is tastefully laid out with trees and shrubbery, and is surrounded by a hi^h
and durable stone-wall, with an elegant Egyptian gateway and iron fence in
front. Within the inclbsure are the monuments of Col. Humphreys, the aid
of Washington; Eli Whitney, the inventor of the cotton gin; Jehudi Ashmun.
the first colonial agent at Liberia ; Noah Webster, the author of the Ameri
can Dictionary of the English language, and many other distinguished per
sons. The ancient burying ground was on the green, back of the Center
Church. In 1821 the remaining monuments were removed to the new ground.
The local situation of New Haven appears to have been known to the
Dutch before the arrival of the English settlers. They designated the place
by the name of Red Rock, from the appearance of the east and west rocks
near the place. Its Indian name was Quinnipiac — the name of the river
forming the eastern boundary of the township, and also of the tribe of In
dians by whom it was inhabited. By the pursuit of the Pequots to the west
ward, the country became known to the English. In 1638, Mr. Davenport,
Theophilus Eaton, with the people of their company, sailed from Boston, and
in about a fortnight, arrived at Quinnipiac. On the 15th of April, they
kept their first Sabbath in the place. The people assembled under a large
spreading oak, and Mr. Davenport preached to them from Math, iv, 1. This
oak stood near the present junction of College and George streets.
The first planters of New Haven, were mostly persons of piety, wealth and
influence. Mr. Davenport was an eminent minister in London, and Mr.
Eaton an influential merchant; and it was the design of the settlers to plant
a mercantile colony. They purchased their lands of the Indians, and they
recognized in their acts "no human authority superior to themselves." Their
object seems to have been to establish, untrammeled, a Christian common
wealth. All the government was originally in the church, out of which
seven pillars were chosen. In 1639, the court, consisting of these seven per
sons, convened, and after a solemn address to the Supreme Majesty, "they
proceeded to form the body of freemen and to elect their civil officers."
During the Revolutionary war, New Haven was invaded by a body of
British troops, under the command of Gen. Tryon, from New York. The
following account of this event is from the Connecticut Journal, published
July 7, 1779:
About two o'clock in the morning, on the 5th inst., a fleet, consisting of the Ca
milla and Scorpion men-of-war, with tenders, transports, etc., to the number of 48,
commanded by Commodore Sir George Collier, anchored off West Haven. They
had on board about 3000 land forces, commanded by Maj. Gen. Tryon; about 1500
CONNECTICUT. 357
of whom, under Brigadier Gen. Garth, landed about sunrise on West Haven Point.
The town being alarmed, all the preparation which the confusion and distress of
the inhabitants, and a necessary care of their families would permit, was made for
resistance. The West bridge, on Milford Road, was taken up, several field-pieces
were carried thither, and some slight works thrown up for the defense of that pass.
The division under Gen. Garth, being landed, immediately began their march to
ward the town. The first opposition was made by about 25 of the inhabitants, to
an advanced party of the enemy of two companies of light infantry. These, though
advancing on the hight of Milford Hill, were attacked with great spirit by the
handful of our people, driven back almost to West Haven, and one of them was
taken prisoner. The enemy then advanced in their main body, with strong flank
ing parties, and two field pieces ; and finding a smart fire kept up from our field-
pieces at the bridge aforesaid, chose not to force an entrance to the town by that,
the usual road, but to make a circuitous march of nine miles, in order to enter by
the Derby Road. In this march, our small party on Milford Hill, now increased
to perhaps 150, promiscuously collected from several companies of the militia, had
a small encounter with the enemy's left flank, near the Milford Road, in which
was killed their adjutant, Campbell* the loss of whom they lamented with much
apparent sensibility. Our people on the hill, being obliged by superior numbers
to give way, kept up a continual fire on the enemy, and galled them much, through
all their march to Thompson's bridge on the Derby Road. In the meantime, those
who were posted at the West bridge, perceiving the movements of the enemy, and
also that another large body of them had landed at the South End, on the cast side
of the harbor, quitted the bridge and marched thence to oppose the enemy at
Thomson's bridge. But by the time they had reached the banks of the river, the
enemy were in possession of the bridge, and the places at which the river is here
fordable; yet, having received a small accession of strength by the coming-in of
the militia, they gave the enemy a smart fire from two field-pieces, and small arms,
which continued with little abatement until the enemy were in possession of the
town. Our people being obliged to retreat, either to the fields north and west of
the town, or through the town across the Neck bridge, the enemy entered the town
between twelve and one o'clock. In the meantime the division of the enemy, be
fore mentioned to have landed at South End, which was under the immediate
command of Gen. Tryon, was bravely resisted by a small party of men, with one
field-piece, who, beside other execution, killed an officer of the enemy, in one
of their boats at their landing. This division marched up by land, and attacked
the fort at Black Rock; at the same time their shipping drew up and attacked it
from the harbor. The fort had only 19 men and 3 pieces of artillery, yet was de
fended as long as reason or valor dictated, when the men made good their retreat.
The town being now in full possession of the enemy, it was, notwithstanding
the proclamation of Gen. Garth, delivered up, except a few instances of protection, to
promiscuous plunder: in which, beside robbing the inhabitants of their watches,
money, plate, buckles, clothing, bedding and provisions, they broke and destroyed
their household furniture to a very great amount. Some families lost everything
their houses contained; many have now neither food nor clothes to shift.
A body of militia sufficient to penetrate the town, could not be collected that evening.
We were obliged, therefore, to content ourselves with giving the enemy every annoyance
in our power, which was done with great spirit for most of the afternoon at and about the
Ditch corner.
Early on Tuesday morning, the enemy unexpectedly, and with the utmost stillness and
dispatch, called in their guards and retreated to their boats, carrying with them a number
of the inhabitants captive, most, if not all, of whom were taken without arms, and a few
who chose to accompany them. Part of them went on board their fleet, and part crossed
over to Gen. Tryon, at East Haven. On Tuesday afternoon the militia collected in such
numbers, and crowded so close upon Gen. Tryon, that he thought best to retreat on board
his fleet, and set sail to the westward.
* His grave is still to be seen on the summit of the high ground on the Milford Road, near
the intersection of the Orange or West Haven Road. After he was shot, he was carried into
a small house then standing in the vicinity. He was attended by his servant until he
expired.
358
CONNECTICUT.
The loss of the enemy is unknown ; but, for many reasons, it is supposed to be consid
erable, and includes some officers whom they lament beside Adjutant Campbell. Ours, by
the best information we can obtain, is 27 killed and 19 wounded. As many of our dead,
upon examination, appeared to have been wounded with shot, but not mortally, and after
ward to have been killed with bayonets, this demonstrated the true reason why the number of
the dead exceeded that of the wounded, to be : that being wounded and falling into the
hands of the enemy, they were afterward killed. A further confirmation of this charge is,
that we have full and direct testimony, which affirms that Gen. Garth declared to one of
our militia who was wounded and taken, that " he was sorry his men had not killed him.
instead of taking him, and that he would not have his men give quarter to one militia man
taken in arms."
Although in this expedition it must be confessed, to the credit of the Britons, that they
have not done all the mischief in their power, yet, the brutal ravishment of women, the
wanton and malicious destruction of property, the burning of the stores upon the wharf,
and eight houses in East Haven ; the beating, stabbing and insulting of the Rev. Dr. Dag-
gett after he was made a prisoner ; the mortally wounding of Mr. Beers, sr., in his own
door, and otherwise abusing him; the murdering the very aged and helpless Mr. English in
his own house, and the beating and finally cutting out the tongue of, and then killing, a
distracted man, are sufficient proofs that they were really Britons.
They were conducted to the town by William Chandler, son of Joshua Chandler, late of
this town, who with his family went off with the enemy in their retreat.
The enemy carried off between thirty and forty of the inhabitants of the town, among
whom was John Whiting, Esq., judge of probate, and clerk of the county court.
The village of Fair Haven, two
miles east of the court-house, lies
partly within the limits of New
Haven, and is situated on both
sides of the Quinnipiac. It con
tains five churches. The oyster
trade is the leading business of the
place : large quantities are brought
here from various places, and laid
down in beds, giving employment
to quite a number of vessels which
are owned here. WestviUe, another
village, is about two miles N. W.
of the court-house, and contains
about 1000 inhabitants. A mile
from the village, near the summit
of West Rock, is the Judges Cave,
a place where the regicides, Goffe
and Whalley, concealed themselves
from their pursuers. Upon the rock are engraved these words : " Opposition
to tyrants is obedience to God T The following account of these regicides is
from Hayward's Gazetteer :
While New Haven was a colony, it was a place of concealment for Goffe, Whal
ley and Dixwell, three of the judges of King Charles I, of England. Goff and
Whalley came to New Haven in 1661. They were hospitably received by the in
habitants, and thought themselves safe. But the king's proclamation for their ar
rest arriving soon after, they were obliged to conceal themselves. Kev. Mr. Dav
enport hid them for a while in his house. They then went to Guilford, where
Governor Leete kept them for some time concealed in his cellar. After this they
retired to a cave on West Kock, now called the Judges' Cave — a place often visited
for its interesting associations. Here they lived for some time, their food being
carried to them by their friends. They were compelled to leave by the visit of a
wild beast, supposed to be a panther, which glared on them in such a manner that
they were glad to retreat. At one time they were secreted under Neck bridge,
JUDGES' CAVE.
CONNECTICUT.
359
near New Haven, while their pursuers passed over their heads. Col. Dixwell lived
in New Haven nearly twenty years, under the name of James Davids. The de
scendants of Dixwell have recently erected an elegant monument to him in the
rear of the Center Church, where Goffe and Whalley were buried.
Eastern view of Bridgeport,
The view shows tho appearance of the city as seen from the east bank of the inlet from the sea : tho
New York and New Haven Railroad passes along in front : the engine house and other railroad buildings
are seen on the left.
BRIDGEPORT, on the line of the New York and New Haven Rail
road, is 17 miles S. W. from New Haven ; 58 N. E. from New York,
and 159 from Albany. It is mostly built on an arm of the sea, and
has a safe harbor into which the Pequanock River enters. Bridge
port was incorporated a city in 1836; its growth has been rapid and
prosperous. It contains 10 churches, several extensive manufac
tories, and about 14,000 inhabitants. Golden Hill, an elevation of
about 50 feet, in the northern part of the city, has a number of beau
tiful private mansions erected on its summit, delightfully situated for
the prospect of the city and of Long Island Sound. The first news
paper printed in Bridgeport, was in 1795, and edited by Lazarus
Beach. The Bridgeport Bank was incorporated in 1806; the Con
necticut Bank in 1831. The daily line of steamboats for New York,
was established in July, 1834. The charter for the Housatonic Rail
road was granted in 1836.
Charles S. Stratton, better known by the name of GEN. TOM THUMB, was born in Bridge
port, Jan. 4, 1832. At his birth he weighed nine pounds and a half, and he continued to
grow in the usual manner, until he had attained the age of seven months, when, from some
cause yet unexplained, " never a hair's breadth more was added to his length or breadth."
In a pamphlet which gives a sketch of his life, it is stated, " he never complained of sick
ness, partook freely of the dishes found upon the tables of the laboring classes, enjoyed re
freshing sleep, and always exhibited the most perfect health, with the exception of those
slight colds to which the most robust are liable. His parents have two other children, who
are well grown, interesting girls of nine and eleven years of age." The general is "a per-
360 CONNECTICUT.
feet miniature MAN, only 28 INCHES HIGH, perfect and elegant in his proportions, and weigh
ing only 15 pounds ! "
Having attracted great attention in various places in this country, the general sailed for
England in Jan., 1844, accompanied by Mr. P. T. Barnum, of the New York American
Museum, as his agent, and his parents. His appearance in Great Britain attracted crowds ;
and he had the honor of appearing before Queen Victoria, at Buckingham Palace, several
times. The queen made him several valuable presents. He visited Paris in 1845, and was
soon summoned to the Tuillerierf, where he was loaded with presents by King Louis Phi
lippe, the Queen, Princess Adelaide, etc. He also appeared at the theater for 70 success
ive nights, in a play called "Petit I*oucet," in which he showed great talent, and received
the highest applause of the public and press. He visited the king and queen of the Bel
gians, also Queen Isabella, the Queen Mother and Spanish court, then assembled at Pam-
peluna. He also appeared before the emperor of Russia, king of Saxony, and Ibrahim Pa
cha, at London.
This miniature specimen of humanity is remarkable for his strength, activity, and viva
city. In his public exhibitions, he assumes a great variety of characters and personages
in their appropriate costumes and attitudes, in the most correct and admirable manner.
His appearance as " Samson carrying the gates of Gaza, Hercules with the Lion, Cupid
with his wings and quiver, are exceedingly interesting. His personations of Napoleon at
St. Helena, of Frederic the Great, and of a Highland Chieftain, may be considered as per
fect." He receives all his visitors with a cordial and courtly grace, shaking hands and
kissing the ladies, and it is said that up to 1847, he had kissed more than 1,500,000. He
returned from Europe in Feb. 1847, bringing with him an elegant Dress Chariot, 20 inches
high and 12 wide, with two ponies 34 inches high ; and when he and his equipage appear
in public, he has two diminutive lads as coachman and footman.
A medal was struck on the occasion of his visit to the royal residence of Victoria. On
one side is the head of the queen, the other, a full length figure of the general, both good
likenesses.
Fairfield, an ancient and beautiful village of about 100 houses, is
situated on the line of the New York and New Haven Railroad,
four miles south-west from Bridgeport. This place was laid in ashes
in the Revolutionary war, in 1779, by Gov. Tryon. The following
description is from Dr. Dwight's Travels :
''On the 7th July, 1779, Gov. Tryon, with the army which 1 have already men
tioned, sailed from New Haven to Fairfield; and the next morning disembarked
upon the beach. A few militia assembled to oppose them ; and in a desultory,
scattered manner, fought with great intrepidity through most of the day. They
killed some; took several prisoners; and wounded more. But the expedition was
so sudden and unexpected, that the efforts, made in this manner, were necessarily
fruitless. The town was plundered ; a great part of the houses, together with the
two churches, the court house, jail, and school houses, were burnt. The barns
had been just filled with wheat, and other produce. The inhabitants, therefore,
were turned out into the world, almost literally destitute.
"Mrs. Burr, the wife of Thaddeus Burr, Esq., high sheriff the county, resolved
to continue in the mansion house of the family, and make an attempt to save it
from the conflagration. The house stood at a sufficient distance from other build
ings. Mrs. Burr was adorned with all the qualities which give distinction to her
sex; possessed of fine accomplishments, and a dignity of character, scarcely ri
valed ; and probably had never known what it was to be treated with disrespect,
or even with inattention. She made a personal application to Gov. Tryon, in
terms which, from a lady of her high respectability, could hardly have failed of a
satisfactory answer from any person, who claimed the title of a gentleman. The
answer which she actually received, was, however, rude and brutal; and spoke the
want, not only of politeness and humanity, but even of vulgar civility. The house
was sentenced to the flames, and was speedily set on fire. An attempt was made,
in the meantime, by some of the soldiery, to rob her of a valuable watch, with
rich furniture; for Gov. Tryon refused to protect her, as well as to preserve the
house. The watch had been already conveyed out of their reach ; but the house,
tilled with everything which contributes either to comfort or elegance of living,
was laid in ashes.
CONNECTICUT.
" While the town was in flames, a thunder storm overspread the heavens, just as
night came on. The conflagration of near 200 houses illuminated the earth, the
skirts of the clouds, and the waves of the sound, with an union of gloom and gran
deur, at once inexpressibly awful and magnificent. The sky speedily was hung
with the deepest darkness, wherever the clouds were not tinged by the melancholy
luster of the flames. At intervals, the lightnings blazed with a livid and terrible
splendor. The thunder rolled above. Beneath, the roaring of the fires filled ur.
the intervals, with a deep and hollow sound, which seemed to be the protracted
murmur of the thunder, reverberated from one end of heaven to the other. Add
to this convulsion of the elements, and these dreadful effects of vindictive and wan
ton devastation, the trembling of the earth; the sharp sound of muskets, occa
sionally discharged; the groans, here and there, of the wounded and dying; and
the shouts of triumph : then place before your eyes crowds of the miserable suf
ferers, mingled with bodies of the militia, and from the neighboring hills taking a
farewell prospect of their property and their dwellings, their happiness and their
hopes; and you will form a just but imperfect picture of the burning of Fairfield.
It needed no great effort of imagination to believe, that the final day had arrived;
and that amid this funereal darkness, the morning would speedily dawn, to which
no night would ever succeed; the graves yield up their inhabitants; and the trial
commence, at which was to be finally settled the destiny of man."
Norwalk, on the line of the New York and New Haven Railroad, is
31 miles from New Haven, and 45 from New York. It is situated on
both sides of a small stream entering into Long Island Sound. It
contains six churches, a bank, and several manufacturing estab
lishments. Population, about 4,000. Norwalk consists of two lo
calities, Norwalk Borough and South Norwalk, upward of one mile
apart. The landing place for steamboats and the railroad depot are at
South Norwalk, formerly known by the name of Old Well.
A terrible accident occurred here on the 6th of May, 1853. While the
morning train from New York to New Haven was passing through Norwalk
at full speed, the drawbridge over which the railroad crosses, had been swung
open to admit the passage of a vessel, and, through some neglect or misun
derstanding on the part of the proper persons, the circumstance was not per
ceived until too late, when the engine and three passenger cars were precip
itated, at full speed, down into the river below. Forty-five persons were
killed or drowned, and others badly injured. The legislature of the state
then being in session, immediately passed a law requiring all trains to
make a full stop before passing any bridge.
On the llth of July, 1779, Norwalk was burnt by the British and tories
under Gov. Tryon : 80 dwelling houses, two churches, 87 barns, 17 shops,
four mills and five vessels were consumed. Grummons Hill, mentioned in
the following account, is a small conical hill, or elevation, a few rods east of
the road, on the east side of the creek. Gov. Tryon, it is said, sat in a
chair and beheld the surrounding conflagration with pleasure.
Gov. Tryon and Brigadier General Garth having laid Fairfield in ashes, crossed
the sound to Huntington Bay, where they remained until the llth of July. They
then sailed over to Korwalk, and landed in the night, between eight and nine
o'clock, on the plain which lies on the east side of the river. On learning this
fact, the inhabitants generally fled during the night ; many of them went to Bel-
den's Hill, about _ five miles distant. iNext morning, between seven and eight
o'clock, Tryon arrived at Grummons Hill, which he made his headquarters. Lit
tle opposition was made to the British troops, excepting by a company of conti
nental soldiers, about fifty in number, commanded by Capt. Stephen Betts, who
362 CONNECTICUT.
was soon, however, compelled to flee from the overwhelming force of Tryon, with
the loss of four of his men killed. These men were buried in a lot in the north
western part of the place, then owned by Mrs. Cannon. The first building was
burnt about sunrise ; it stood near where the steamboat wharf is now constructed.
Both the churches in the place, one the Congregational, the other the Episcopal,
were consumed. The Congregational Church was seventy feet by fifty-three, and
three stories in hight, and had just been put in good repair; it was situated thirty
or forty rods south of Grummon's Hill. The Episcopal Church stood on the same
foundation on which the present church is built. The present building is built in
the same form of the one burnt.
Six houses only were left undestroyed by the enemy ; four on the east, and two
on the west side of the river. One of these was saved by the intercession of a
maiden lady, who personally applied to Tryon in order to save the house. The
argument which she made use of was, "that the owner of the house was a friend
to his majesty, King George." The other five houses were probably spared from
the same considerations. The British began their retreat about noon ; the Epis
copal clergyman, and several other persons disaffected to the American cause, went
off with them.
The borough of Danbury is pleasantly situated in a fertile valley,
36 miles from New Haven, 65 from New York, and 22 from Norwalk,
with which it is connected by railroad. The borough contains about
200 dwellings, mostly on a single street, six or seven churches, and
numerous hatting shops or factories.
In 1776, Danbury was selected for a place of deposit for military stores of the
American army. Learning that a large quantity had been collected. Gov. Tryon,
in April of the next year, with a detachment of 2,000 men from New York, sailed
to Compo, in Fairfield, and proceeded directly to Danbury to destroy them. They
entered the town in the afternoon of April 26th, and marched off toward their ship
ping early the next morning. Before they left, they set fire to several stores and
buildings. The amount of continental stores destroyed were about 3,000 barrels
of pork, more than 1,000 barrels of flour, several hundred barrels of beef, 1,600
tents, 2,000 bushels of grain, beside many valuable articles, such as rum, wine,
rice, army carriages, etc. : 19 dwelling houses, one church, and 22 stores and barns
were consumed. On the return of the British troops, Gen. Wooster, who had ral
lied some of the militia, overtook the enemy at Ridgefield. Attacking a detached
party, he was fatally wounded, and was conveyed to Danbury.
On April 27, 1854, the celebration in honor of the completion of the Wooster
Monument was held in Danbury. The town was decorated with evergreens, flags,
etc. An immense procession was formed, consisting of the military, firemen,
Freemasons, etc., together with the governor of the state, military officers of high
rank from abroad, members of the legislature, etc., with citizens and strangers.
The procession wound around the monument, on Mt. Moriah, and various exer
cises followed. The bullet which was shot into the body of Wooster, and other
relics, with some documents, were placed in a copper box, and inserted into the
capstone of the monument.
The monument is of Portland granite, 40 feet high, on a base of eight feet
square. The cost of it was over $3,000, of which sum the general assembly
granted $1,500, the Masonic Lodge, $1,000, and the citizens of Danbury the re
mainder. On one side is the following inscription :
DAVID WOOSTER, first Maj. Gen. of the Conn. Troops, in the Army of the Revolution ;
Brig. Gen. of the United Colonies; Born at Stratford, March 2, 1710-11. Wounded at
Ridgefield, April 27, 1777, while defending the liberties of America, and nobly died at Dan-
bury, May 2d, 1777. Of his country, Wooster said : " My life has ever been devoted to her
service, from my youth up, though never before in a cause like this ; a cause for which I
would most cheerfully risk — nay, lay down my life I "
On the other side, the Masonic inscription is as follows :
CONNECTICUT. 353
Brother DAVID WOOSTER, Impressed while a stranger, in a foreign land, with the neces
sity of some tie that should unite all mankind in a UNIVERSAL BROTHERHOOD, he returned
to his native country, and procured from the Provincial Grand Lodge of Massachusetts a
Charter, and first introduced into Conn, that light which has warmed the widow's heart,
and illumined the orphan's pathway. Under the Charter of 1750, Hiram Lodge No. 1, of
New Haven, was organized, of which he was first Worshipful Master. Grateful for his ser
vices as the Master Builder of the oldest Temple, for his fidelity as a Brother, and his re
nown as a patriot and a soldier, the Free and Accepted Masons have united with his native
State and the citizens of Danbury, in rearing and consecrating this Monument to his mem
ory. Erected at Danbury, A. L. 5854, A. D. 1854. DAVID CLARK, Grand Master.
Robert Sandeman, the founder of the Sandemanian denomination,
died at Danbury. A small house of worship was built by his follow
ers in the village, the only one of the kind, it is believed, ever erected
in this country. The following is copied from a monument in the
grave yard opposite the court house.
Here lies, until the resurrection, the body of ROBERT SANDEMAN, a native of Perth, North
Britain. Who in the face of continual opposition from all sorts of men long boldly con
tended for the ancient Faith that the bare work of Jesus Christ, without a deed or thought
on the part of man, is sufficient to present the chief of sinners spotless before God. To de
clare this blessed Truth, as testified in the Holy Scriptures, he left his country, he left his
Friends, and after much patient suffering, finished his labors at Danbury, April 2, 1771, M.
53 years.
Dcign'd Christ to come so nigh to us, Nay, let us boast in his reproach,
As not to count it shame, And glory in his Cross ;
To call us Brethren, should we blush, When he appears one smile from him ,
At aught that bears his name ? Would far o'erpay our loss.
Goodrich, in his " Recollections of a Life Time" gives some inter
esting reminiscenses of Sandeman and the Sandemanians.
Sandeman was doubtless a man of ability, but his career displays the usual nar
rowness and inconsistency of sectarianism founded upon persons rather than
principles. His doctrine was, that faith is a mere intellectual conviction — a bare
belief of the bare truth. Of course so cold a religion, scarcely distinguishable in
its principle from deism, and giving no satisfaction to that constant craving of the
soul for a more exalted and spiritual life, could not prosper. It was only adapted
to a few rigid minds like his own. His adherents in my time met at their little
church on the afternoons of Sundays and Thursdays; they sat around a large ta
ble, each with a Bible. The men read and discoursed, as the spirit dictated ; the
women were silent. Spectators were admitted, but the worshipers seemed not to
recognize their presence. After a prayer and a hymn, they went to the house of
one of the members, and had a love-fe'ast. " Greet one another with a holy kiss,"
was their maxim and their practice.
These customs remain to the present day, save only as to the kiss, which, ac
cording to the current report, was modified some years since. The congregation
was rather mixed, and included the W R s, a family of wealth and refine
ment, down to N. S , the blacksmith. Mrs. W R was a woman of
great delicacy of person, manners and dress ; her lace was the finest, her silks the
richest, her muslin the most immaculate. She was in breeding a lady, in position
an aristocrat, in feeling an exclusive. And yet, one day, as she walked forth, and
chanced to turn the corner, close to the central meeting house, wending her way
homeward, she came suddenly upon the village Vulcan, above mentioned. He
was in front of his shop, and being a man of full habit, and having just put down
the heel of an ox, which he was shoeing, he was damp with perspiration. Never
theless, the faith was strong within him: " Greet one another with a holy kiss /"
rushed to his mind, and he saluted Mrs. W R , as in duty bound. She, a
saint in profession, but, alas, in practice a sinner, as doth appear, returned not the
salute ! Had she been of another sect, abstinence would have been a virtue, but
in this it was of course a crime. Upon this incident rocked and quaked the whole
364
CONNECTICUT.
Sandemanian Church for some months. At last the agitation subsided, and tho
holy kiss was thenceforth either abandoned or given with discretion. Such is the
tale as it was told to me nearly fifty years ago.
Central part of Waterbury.
The view shows tho appearance of the central part, as entered upon the ^e\v Haven road, near the pub
lic square, a glimpse of which is had in the distance; part of the Scoville House, fronting the square, is
seen on the left.
WATERBURY CITY, recently constituted, is situated in the valley of
the Naugatuc, and on the line of the Naugatuc Railroad. It is 20
miles N. W. from New Haven, and 28 miles S. W. from Hartford. Of
the articles manufactured here, those of gilt buttons and the rolling
of brass and copper metal, are the most prominent. Waterbury has
been for many years distinguished for the excellence of its manufac
tures, and its general thrift. Population, about 9,000.
Samuel Hopkins,, D. D., a distinguished divine, was born in this
town, in 1721. He was educated at Yale College, and studied theol
ogy with Mr. Edwards, at Northampton, and finally settled at New
port, R. I., where he continued until his death, in 1803. His reli
gious sentiments were highly Calvinistic, and from his name the term
Hopkinsianism is derived. (See p. 314.)
Litchfield is 30 miles W. from Hartford, and 36 N. W. from New
Haven. The village, or Litchfield Hill, is beautifully situated on an
elevated plain, and contains many tasteful residences. The Law
School, established here, by Hon. Tapping Reeve, in 1784, was one
of much celebrity. It continued in operation nearly 30 years.
Litchfield has been the birth place and residence of several distin
guished men.
NEW LONDON is situated on the west bank of the Thames, three
miles from its entrance into Long Island Sound, 42 miles from Hart
ford, 13 from Norwich, and 50 east of New Haven : and it has
CONNECTICUT.
365
railroad connections with each. It was first settled in 1646. It is
irregularly built, mostly on the side of a rocky hill, which is incura-
bered with granite rocks. These, with the unusual quantity of foliage
in the streets and around the dwellings of the citizens, with the ample
gardens generally attached to them, give the city a rural, picturesque
air. Very few of the best dwellings are built for show ; most of them
are old fashioned roomy residences, that give the idea of comfort and
competence. A fine prospect of the surrounding country is had from
the high ground in the rear of the town. It has about 10,500 in
habitants.
View of New London and its Vicinity.
Fort Trumbull is seen in the central part before the city. Groton Monument, on the east bank of the
Thames, appears in the extreme distance on the right.
The harbor is one of the best in the Union, commodious and safe, and
thirty feet in depth ; it is three miles long, and never obstructed by
ice. This pleasant place has long been distinguished for the enter
prise of its inhabitants in navigation and commerce, especially in the
whale fishery.
The harbor is defended by two forts — Trumbull and Griswold.
Fort Trumbull stands on the New London side of the Thames, on a
rocky peninsula extending into the river or harbor, about a mile below
the city. Fort Griswrold is opposite the city, on a commanding emi
nence on the east side of the river, and is now out of repair.
New London has been rendered memorable by the burning of the
town, by Benedict Arnold, on the 6th of September, 1781, and by the
storming of Fort Griswold. The following account of these events is
from the Connecticut Gazette, printed at New London, Sept. 7, 1781 :
" About daybreak on Thursday morning last, twenty-four sail of the enemy's shipping
appeared to the westward of this harbor, which, by many, were supposed to be' a plunder
ing party after stock ; alarm guns were immediately fired, but the discharge of cannon in
the harbor has become so frequent of late, that they answered little or no purpose. The
3(36 CONNECTICUT.
defenseless state of the fortifications and the town is obvious to our readers ; a few of the
inhabitants who were equipped, advanced toward the place where the enemy were thought,
likely to make their landing, and maneuvered on the bights adjacent, until the enemy, about
nine o'clock, landed in two divisions, and about 800 men each — one of them at Brown's
farm, near the light-house ; the other at Groton Point. The division that landed near the
light-house marched up the road, keeping up large flanking parties, who were attacked in
different places on their march by the inhabitants, who had spirit and resolution to oppose
their progress. The main body of the enemy proceeded to the town, and set fire to the
stores on the beach, and immediately after to the dwelling houses lying on the Mill Cove.
The scattered fire of our little parties, unsupported by our neighbors more distant, galled
them so that they soon began to retire, setting fire promiscuously on their way. The fire
from the stores communicated to the shipping that lay at the wharves, and a number were
burnt ; others swung to single fast, and remained unhurt.
At four o'clock they began to quit the town with great precipitation, and were pursued
by our brave citizens with the spirit and ardor of veterans, and driven on board their boats.
Five of the enemy were killed, and about twenty wounded ; among the latter is a Hessian
captain, who is a prisoner, as are seven others. We lost four killed, and ten or twelve
wounded, some mortally.
The most valuable part of the town is reduced to ashes, and all the stores. Fort Trum-
bull, not being tenable on the land side, was evacuated as the enemy advanced, and the
few men in it crossed the river to Fort Griswold, on Groton Hill, which was soon after in
vested by the division that landed at the point : the fort having in it only about 120 men,
chiefly militia hastily collected, they defended it with the greatest resolution and bravery,
and once repulsed the enemy ; but the fort being out of repair, could not be defended by
such a handful of men, though brave and determined, against so superior a number ; and
after having a number of their party killed and wounded, they found that further resistance
would be in vain, and resigned the fort. Immediately after the surrender, the valiant Col.
Ledyard, whose fate in a particular manner is much lamented, and 70 other officers and
men were murdered, most of whom were heads of families. The enemy lost a Major Mont
gomery and 40 officers and men in the attack, who were found buried near the fort ; their
wounded were carried off.
Soon after the enemy got possession of the fort, they set fire to and burnt a considerable
number of dwelling houses and stores on Groton bank, and embarked about sunset, taking
with them sundry inhabitants of New London and Groton. A Col. Eyre, who commanded
the division at Groton, was wounded, and it is said died on board the fleet the night they
embarked. About 15 sail of vessels, with the effects of the inhabitants, retreated up the
river on the appearance of the enemy, and were saved, and four others remained in the har
bor unhurt. The troops were commanded by that infamous traitor Benedict Arnold, who
headed the division which marched up to the town. By this calamity it is judged that
more than one hundred families are deprived of their habitations, and most of their all. This
neighborhood feels sensibly the loss of so many deserving citizens, and though deceased,
can not but be highly indebted to them for their spirit and bravery in their exertions and
manly opposition to the merciless enemies of our country in their last moments.
The following savage action, committed by the troops who subdued Fort Griswold, on
Groton Hill, on Thursday last, ought to be recorded to their eternal infamy. Soon after
the surrender of the fort, they loaded a wagon with our wounded men, by order of their of
ficers, and set the wagon off from the top of the hill, which is long and very steep. The
wagon went a considerable distance with great force, until it was suddenly stopped by a
tree ; the shock was so great to those faint and bleeding men that some of them died in
stantly. The officers ordered their men to fire upon the wagon while it was running."
The buildings burnt at New London in this expedition by the British troops, were 65
dwelling houses, containing 97 families ; 31 stores, 18 shops, 20 barns, and 9 public and
other buildings, among which were the court-house, jail and church — in all 143.
In the summer of 1813, Commodore Decatur, commanding the
American frigate United States, after a brief and glorious career upon
the ocean, was driven into the harbor of New London with his prize,
the Macedonian and the sloop-of-war Hornet, by the fleet of Sir
Thomas Hardy, and there blockaded for the remainder of the war.
As the territory of Connecticut was threatened, a large force of mili
tia was dispatched to the defense of New London and the neighboring
country. Samuel G. Goodrich, then a young man, was present, as a
CONNECTICCJT. 367
member of an artillery company from Hartford. He gives some
amusing reminiscences :
Before leaving home my uncle " supplied me with ten dollars, a welcome addition to my
light purse. After a little advice, he said, ' I have only one thing to add — if you come to
a fight, don't run away until the rest do. Good-by !' "
The next morning — June 7, 1813 — about sunrise, the whole company, nearly sixty in
number, mounted in wagons, departed. At sunset we were on the hights, two miles back
of New London. No provision had been made for us, and so we went supper-less to bed, in
a large empty barn.
I was glad to see the daylight. The weather was fine, and as the sun came up, we saw
the British fleet — some half-dozen large ships of war — lying off the mouth of the Thames.
They seemed very near at hand, and for the first time I realized my situation — that of a
soldier, who was likely soon to be engaged in battle. I said nothing of my emotions : in
deed, words were unnecessary. I watched the countenances of my companions as they
first caught a view of the black and portentous squadron, and I read in almost every bo
som a reflection of my own feelings.
At ten o'clock we were mustered, and began our march, all in our best trim ; cocked
hats, long-tailed blue coats, with red facings, white pantaloons, and shining cutlasses at our
sides. Our glittering cannon moved along with the solemnity of elephants. It was, in
fact, a fine company — all young men, and many from the best families in Hartford. Our
captain, Johnson, was an eminent lawyer, of martial appearance, and great taste for mili
tary affairs. He afterward rose to the rank of general. Mosely, the first lieutenant, was
six feet four inches high — a young lawyer, nephew of Oliver Wolcott — and of high social
and professional standing. Screamed the fife, rolled the drum — as we entered New Lon
don ! The streets presented some confusion, for still the people were removing back into
the country, as an attack was daily expected. A few military companies were also gather
ing into the town. At four o'clock in the afternoon, we were transported across the
Thames, to the village of Groton, and took up our*quarters in a large house, on the bank
of the river, vacated for our use.
About a week after our arrival, over a thousand militia, gathered from various parts of
the state, were stationed along the river, chiefly on the eastern bank. Decatur had drawn
his three ships up the stream as far as possible, some twelve miles from its mouth, and near
the city of Norwich. Here the river is reduced to three hundred feet in width, and flows
between high rocky banks.
The officers of our company were rigid disciplinarians, and accordingly we were well
drilled for about four hours each day. We soon gained much reputation for our martial
exercises and our tidy appearance. After the morning drill, we were generally at leisure
for the rest of the day, taking our turns, however, on guard, and in other occasional duties.
I was employed by the captain to keep his journal of our proceedings, and sometimes I was
dispatched to New London, or to some one of the officers along the line, with a letter or a
parcel. I established a friendly acquaintance with old Mrs. A very, who kept a supply of
excellent bread and butter, milk and eggs. I visited Fort Trumbull, and the blockaded fleet
up the river. Frequently I strolled into the country, and now and then went to see " Mrs.
Bailey," who even at that early period was a celebrity of Grotou. I have never seen such
fierce democracy as in this village, fed, as it doubtless is, upon the remembrance of the
British massacre at the fort; and Mrs. Bailey was filled with its most peppery essence. The
story of the flannel petticoat * was then recent, but had marked her for immortality. All
the soldiers went to see her, and she sang Jefferson and Liberty to them with great spirit.
Once a soldier talked " old federalism " to her, by way of jest : whereupon she got up, and
holding out her petticoat, danced and sang Jefferson and Liberty at him, as if that were
sufficient to strike him dead.
I must mention one circumstance which tried the souls of our company. Let me pre
mise that, on a certain Saturday, a large accession to the British force arrived in the bay,
the whole number of vessels, of all kinds, amounting to fourteen. This looked very much
* When Decatur took refuge in New London harbor, the inhabitants of Groton were
thrown into great alarm. At this moment a messenger was sent to Fort Griswold for flan
nel, to be used for the cannon. Most of the portable goods had been set away, and the mes
senger was unsuccessful, until he met Mrs. Anna Bailey, who instantly took off her flannel
petticoat, and heartily devoted it to the patriotic cause of defense. It was carried to the
fortress, and displayed on a pike. The story being told, the garrison cheered, and the
" martial petticoat " became almost as celebrated as Mahomet's breeches. The story went
over the whole country, and when General Jackson (then President) came to New London,
he visited this lady. She is said to have given him a very demonstrative reception. She
died January 10, 1851, aged 92 years.
368 CONNECTICUT.
like an attack, and accordingly there was a feverish anxiety among the inhabitants of New
London and the vicinity, and a general bustle in the army, from Groton Point to Allyn's
Mountain. A large body of militia was set to work upon Fort Griswold. Our company
was drilled in the little redoubt which we were to defend, and every preparation was made
to give the enemy a warm reception. The general idea was, that a landing of British troops
would be made on the eastern side, and that we should take the brunt of the first attack.
The sun set in clouds, and as the evening advanced, bursts of thunder, attended by
flashes of lightning, muttered along the distant horizon. Our company were admonished
to sleep on their arms. Everything wore a rather ominous appearance. There were no
signs of cowardice in the men, but they looked thoughtful ; and when Bill W , the lau
reate wit of the company, let off some of his best jokes — which would ordinarily have set
the whole corps in a roar — he was answered by a dead silence. It chanced that I was that
night on guard. My turn came at ten o'clock. Taking my gun, I paced the bank of
the river back and forth, in front of our barracks. I had received orders to let nothing
pass, by land or water. It was intensely dark, but at frequent intervals, thin flashes of
lightning sprang up against the distant sky, behind dark rolling masses of clouds.
Gradually the lights in the streets and windows of New London, stretching in a long
line on the opposite side of the river, were extinguished one by one, a few remaining, how
ever, as sentinels, indicating anxiety and watchfulness. The sounds on all sides were at
last hushed, and left the world to darkness and to me. More than half of my two hours'
watch had passed, when I heard the dip of oars, and the flapping of waves against the prow
of a boat. I looked in the direction of the sounds, and at last descried the dusky outline
of a craft, stealing down the river. I cried out, " Boat ahoy ! who goes there ?" My voice
echoed portentously in the silence, but no answer was given, and the low, black, raking ap
parition glided on its way. Again I challenged, but there was still no reply. On went the
ghost ! I cocked my gun. The click sounded ominously on the still night air. I began
to consider the horror of shooting some fellow-being in the dark. I called a third time,
and not without avail. The rudder was turned, the boat whirled on her heel, and a man
came ashore. According to my orders, I marshaled him to the guard-room, and gave no
tice of what had happened, to the captain. The man was only a fisherman, going home,
but he was detained until morning. So, you see, I can boast that I made one prisoner. My
watch was soon over, and returning to my station, I laid down to sleep.
All was soon quiet, and I was buried in profound repose, when suddenly there was a cry
in the main barrack-room, overhead — " Alarm ! alarm !"
" Alarm ! alarm !" was echoed by twenty voices, attended by quick, shuffling sounds, and
followed by a hurried rush of men down the staircase. A moment after, the guard in front
discharged his musket, and was answered by a long line of reports, up and down the river,
from the various sentinels extending for half a dozen miles. Then came the roll of drums,
and the mustering of the men. Several of our company had been out to see what was go
ing on : they came back, saying that the enemy was approaching ! J. M distinctly
heard the roar of cannon, and positively saw the flashes of muskets. B. W found out
that the attack had already begun upon our southern pickets. Nobody doubted that our
time had come !
In a very few minutes our company was drawn up in line, and the roll was called. It
was still dark, but the faint flashes gave us now and then a glimpse of each other's faces.
I think we were a ghostly-looking set, but it was perhaps owing to the bluish complexion
of the light. J. S. , of West Hartford, who marched at my left shoulder — usually the
lightest-hearted fellow in the company — whispered to me, " Goodrich, I'd give Jifty dollars
to be at West Division .'" For myself, I felt rather serious, and asked a certain anxious
feeling in my stomach, " What's to be done ?" I thought of my father's letter, and my
uncle's injunctions, and having settled it in my mind that I must fight, I closed my thoughts
against all consequences, and felt that I was ready for the conflict. I was, indeed, almost
anxious to have it come, as the suspense was painful. I afterward found, on conversing
with several members of the company, that very similar trains of thought had occurred to
them. Johnson, our captain, was a man of nerve and ready speech. When the roll was
finished, he said, in a clear, hearty tone, "All right, my good fellows ! Every man at his
post !" These few words — which were, however, more politic than true, for one fellow was
taken with sudden colic, and could not be got out — were electrical. We were ready to take
our places in the redoubt.
Messengers were now sent to the two neighboring posts to inquire into the state of facts.
Word was brought that the first alarm came from our barracks ! The matter was inquired
into, and it turned out that the whole affair was originated by our Corporal T , who, in
a fit of nightmare, jumped up and cried, " Alarm ! alarm !"
Our martial ardor soon reconciled itself to this rather ludicrous denouement, though sev
eral persons, who had been somewhat chapfallen, became suddenly inflated with courage,
which signalized itself with outbursts of, " D n the British !" " They're a pack
CONNECTICUT. 369
of sneaking cowards, after all !" and the like. The next morning was fresh and fair. The
skirmishing thunder- gusts of the night had cleared the air, and even distant objects seemed
near at hand. Before us lay the whole British fleet, still and harmless, in the glassy bay.
My left-hand chum, J. S , who, in the dark hour, would have given fifty dollars to be
at West Division, was now himself again. " Come on here, you black old Ramilies .'" said
he — dashing the doubled fist of his right hand into the palm of his left : " Come on here,
you black-hearted British bull-dogs, and we'll do your business for you !" etc.
The first of the two following inscriptions was copied from the original
monument placed over the remains of Bishop Seabury, who was interred in
the new burying ground in New London.* Bishop Seabury was born in Pe-
quannock, a small village in Groton, 3 or 4 miles from New London. He
was the first Protestant Episcopal Bishop in the United States. The second
inscription is on a slab of red sand-stone, in the ancient grave-yard. Capt.
Lord was the commander of the first troop of horsemen established in the
state :
Here lyeth the body of SAMUEL SEABURY, D.D. Bishop of Connecticut and Rhode Island,
who departed from this transitory scene, February 25, Anno Domini 1796, in the 68th year
of hid age, and the 12th of his Episcopal consecration.
Ingenious without pride, learned without pedantry, good without severity, he was duly
qualified to discharge the duties of the Christian and the Bishop. In the pulpit he enforced
Religion ; in his conduct he exemplified it. The poor he assisted with his charity j the ig
norant he blessed with his instruction. The friend of men, he ever designed their good ;
the enemy of vice, he ever opposed it. Christian ! dost thou aspire to happiness? Seabury
has shown the way that leads to it.
" An Epitaph on Captaine Richard Lord, deceased May 17, 1662. J5tatis svae 51.
.... bright starre of ovr chivallrie lyes here
To the state a covnsillovr fvll deare
And to ye trvth a friend of sweete content
To Hartford towne a silver ornament
Who can deny to poore he was reliefe
And in composing paroxyies he was chiefe
To marchantes as a patterne he might stand
Adventring dangers new by sea and land."
Groton, the town opposite New London, is memorable as being the theater
of the most important military transactions which have taken place in Con
necticut. In its early history, the fate of the colony was decided by the
sword on Pequot Hill, within the limits of this town. In a later period, an
other of its "high places" became an Aceldama, and the flower of her sons
was sacrificed to the vengeance of an infuriated enemy. Most of the facts
in the following account were related to the compiler of this work by an eye
witness and actor in the scenes described :
On the 6th of September, 1781, a body of British troops, about 800 in number,
under the command of Lieut. Col. Eyre, landed on the Groton side, opposite the
light-house, and having found a lame boy collecting cattle, compelled him to show
them the cart-path to the fort. They landed about nine o'clock in the morning of
a most delightful day, clear and still. Fort Griswold was under the command of
Lieut. Col. William Ledyard, uncle to the celebrated traveler of the same name.
He resided on Groton bank, opposite New London, and was much beloved and re
spected by his neighbors. On the advance of the enemy, Col. Ledyard, having but
about one hundred and fifty men with him in the fort, sent out an officer to get as
sistance, as there were a number of hundreds of people collected in the vicinity;
this officer, by drinking too much, became intoxicated, and no reinforcement was
* The remains of Bishop Seabury were removed and interred within the new Episcopal
Church, in New London, a fine Gothic structure, consecrated by Bishop Brownwell, June
11, 1850.
370
CONNECTICUT.
obtained. On the rejection of a summons to surrender, the British extended their
lines, so that they were scattered over the fields, and rushed on to the attack with
trailed arms, under the lire of the Americans, to the assault of the fort on three
sides. Having effected a lodgment in the ditch, they cut away the pickets, and
having scaling ladders, they entered the fort and knocked away the gate on the in
side. While the British were in the ditch, they had cold shot thrown on them, and
as they were entering the embrazures, the garrison changed their weapons and
fought desperately with spears or pikes, fifteen or sixteen feet in length, which did
considerable execution. Unfortunately they had lent the greater part of the pikes
belonging to the fort to a privateer a few days before. Major Montgomery was
hoisted up on the walls of the fort by his soldiers; as he was nourishing his sword
on his entrance, he was mortally wounded by Jordan Freeman, a colored man, who
Western view of Groton Monument, Groton.
pierced him through with a spear. Another officer was killed by a musket bal>
while in the fort. As he fell, he exclaimed, " Put every one to death; don't spare
one!" Col. Ledyard, finding further resistance useless, presented his sword to an
officer, who asked him who commanded the fort. "I did," said Col. Ledyard, "but
you do now." The officer, Capt. Bloomfield, took his sword and plunged it into his
bosom. Col. Ledyard fell on his face and instantly expired. An indiscriminate
massacre now took place, until a British officer exclaimed, "My soul can not bear
such destruction!" and ordered a parley to be beat. Such had been the butchery
in the fort, that it was over shoes in blood in some parts of the parade ground. Soon
after the surrender, a wagon was loaded with wounded Americans and set off
down the hill; it struck an apple-tree with great force, and knocked several of
these bleeding men out, and caused their instant death. One of these distressed
men having been thrown out of the wagon, and while crawling toward the fence
on his hands and knees, was brutally knocked on the head by the butt-end of a
musket, by one of the refugees who were attached to the British army. The Brit
ish embarked at the foot of the hill, near the ferry, and took off a number of pris
oners with them. As they left the fort, they set fire to a train, intending to blow
up the magazine, in which were about one hundred barrels of powder. Fortun
ately it was extinguished by our people, who entered the fort soon after the enemy
left it. It is stated that the enemy lost in the attack on the fort, 54 killed and 143
wounded, several of whom afterward died of their wounds. The killed of the en
emy were buried by their comrades at the gate of the fort, and were so slightly
covered, that many of their legs and arms remained above ground ; our people who
CONNECTICUT.
371
were killed at the fort, were stripped, and so disfigured, covered with blood and
dust, that, with the exception of two or three, they could not be recognized by their
friends, except by some particular marks on their persons.
The engraving on the preceding page shows the appearance of Groton
Monument and its vicinity, as seen from New London. Its foundation stone
is 130 feet above tide-water, and the
monument itself is 127 feet in hight.
It is built of granite, of which there
is an abundance in the vicinity. On
the south side of the pedestal, next
the fort, which is but a few yards dis
tant, are the names, of 85 men who
fell at the capture of the fort. The
following is on a marble tablet over
the entrance of the monument:
" This monument was erected under the
patronage of the state of Connecticut, A. 1).
1830, and in the 55th year of the Independ
ence of the U. S. A. In memory of the brave
Patriots who fell in the massacre at Fort
Griswold, near this spot, on the 6th of Sep
tember, A. D. 1781, when the British, under
the command of the traitor Benedict Arnold,
burnt the towns of New London and Groton,
and spread desolation and woe throughout
this region."
On the south side of the pedestal,
opposite the fort, is the following in
scription :
" Zebulon and Napthali were a people that
jeoparded their lives unto the death, in the
high places of the field." — Judges, 5 Chap.
18 verse.
List of men who fell at Fort Griswold, Sep
tember 6, 1781.
LEDYARD MONUMENT, GROTON.
Here follows a list of eighty-five names, on a marble tablet.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Groton
Cemetery :
" Sacred to the memory of WILLIAM LEDYARD, Esq., Col. Commandant of the garrisoned
posts of New London and Groton, who, after a gallant defense, was, with part of the brave
garrison, inhumanly massacred by the British troops in Fort Griswold, Sept. 6, 1781, JEtatis
suae 43. By a judicious and faithful discharge of the various duties of his station, he ren
dered most essential service to his country j and stood confessed the unshaken Patriot, and
intrepid Hero. He fell the victim of ungenerous rage and cruelty.
" ERECTED IN 1854, by the state of Connecticut, in remembrance of the painful events that
took place in this neighborhood during the war of the Revolution. It commemorates the
burning of New London ; the storming of Groton Fort ; the massacre of the garrison ; the
struggle of Ledyard, the brave commander of these posts, who was slain, by the conquer
ors, with his own sword. He fell in the service of his country, fearless of death, and pre
pared to die. Sons of Connecticut ! Behold this moument, and learn to emulate the virtue,
valor and patriotism of your ancestors."
" Here lyeth, reunited to Parent earth, in the 46 year of her Life, ANN, for a few years the
disconsolate Relict of COL. WILLIAM LEDYARD, who, in a fort, adjoining this ground, fell gal
lantly defending these Towns and Harbour. At her fond request, her youngest son, Charles,
24
372
CONNECTICUT.
aged 8 years, lies interrd in her arms. Those who knew how to estimate female accom
plishments in the person of a tender mother, will judge of the melancholy reverance with
which this stone is erected to her memory by her only surviving child, Peter V. Ledyard."
Stonington is on Long Island Sound, and is the south-eastern cor
ner town of Connecticut, distant 13 miles east of New London. The
borough is built on a rocky peninsula, nearly a mile in length, and
contains about 3,000 inhabitants. It has been greatly noted for its
various enterprises in the sealing and whaling business. The fleet of
whalers at one time numbered 27 ships and barges. The place is cel
ebrated for the spirited and successful resistance it made against the
attack of the fleet of Sir Thomas Hardy, in the war of 1812, when
the enemy were so warmly received that they weighed anchor, and
made no further attempt upon the coast of Connecticut.
South view of Norwich City.
On the right is seen the Norwich and Worcester Railroad Depot, and the bridge over the Quinnebaug,
through which railroad trains pass down on the east side of the Thames ; the New London train appears
on the left.
NORWICH, one of the shire towns in New London county, is situated
at the point of the junction of Yantic and Shetucket Rivers, whose
united waters form the Thames. It is 15 miles N. from New London,
38 from Hartford, and 38 from Providence, R. I. Population, about
12,000. It contains 16 churches, a court house, several banks, and
excellent high schools for the education of both sexes. The city, as it
is approached from the south, presents an uncommonly beautiful and
romantic prospect. It is built on the southern declivity of a rocky
and somewhat precipitous hill, at the confluence of the Yantic and
Quinnebaug streams. The houses, which are generally of a pure
white, appear in tiers rising one above another ; these, contrasted
with the deep green foliage covering the rocky and elevated banks of
the river, give a picturesque variety to the scenery.
CONNECTICUT. 373
A large manufacturing business is done in Norwich. About a
mile eastward of the landing is situated the village of Greenville, con
taining several large factories and mills. The principal manufactures
of the town are those of cotton, paper and woolens. The first paper
manufactured in Connecticut was made here by Col. Christopher Lef-
fingwell. Several manufacturing establishments are at the falls of
the Yantic, a most romantic and picturesque spot at the head of a
cove about one mile from the landing. Here is the burial ground of
the royal line of Uncas: several of their monuments still remain.
President Jackson, in his tour through the country, assisted in the
ceremony of laying the foundation stone for the monument to the mem
ory of Uncas.
In the eastern part of the town is a place called " Sachem's Plain"
being the spot where Uncas defeated Miantonimoh, the Narraganset
sachem, and where this unfortunate chieftain was afterward executed
and buried. The following account of the battle at this place is from
Dr. Trumbull's History of Connecticut :
" Miantonimoh, without consulting the English, according to agreement, with
out proclaiming war, or giving Uncas the least information, raised an army of nine
hundred or a thousand men, and marched against him. Uncas' spies discovered
the army at some distance and gave him intelligence. He was unprepared, but
rallying between four and five hundred of his bravest men, he told them they must
by no means suffer Miantonimoh to come into their town ; but must go and fight
him on his way. Having marched three or four miles, the armies met on a large
plain. When they had advanced within fair bow shot of each other, Uncas had
recourse to a stratagem, with which he had previously acquainted his warriors.
He desired a parley, and both armies halted in the face of each other. Uncas
gallantly advancing in the front of his men, addressed Miantonimoh to this effect,
' You have a number of stout men with you, and so have I with me. It is a great
pity that such brave warriors should be killed in a private quarrel between us
only. Come like a man, as you profess to be, and let us fight it out. If you kill
me, my men shall be yours; but if I kill you, your men shall be mine.' Mianto
nimoh replied, 'My men came to fight, and they shall fight.' Uncas falling in
stantly upon the ground, his men discharged a shower of arrows upon the Narra-
gansets; and, without a moment's interval, rushing upon them in a furious man
ner, with their hideous Indian yell, put them immediately to flight. The Mohe-
gans pursued the enemy with the same fury and eagerness with which they com
menced the action. The Narragansets were driven down rocks and precipices,
and chased like a doe by the huntsman. Among others, Miantonimoh was exceed
ingly pressed. Some of Uncas' bravest men, who were most light of foot, com
ing up with him, twitched him back, impeding his flight, and passed him, that
Uncas might take him. Uncas was a stout man, and rushing forward, like a lion
greedy of his prey, seized him by his shoulder. He knew Uncas, and saw that he
was now in the power of the man whom he had hated, and by all means attempted
to destroy ; but he sat down sullen, and spake not a word. Uncas gave the Indian
whoop, and called up his men who were behind, to his assistance. The victory
was complete. About 30 of the Narragansets were slain, and a much greater
number wounded. Among the latter was a brother of Miantonimoh, and two sons
of Canonicus, a chief sachem of the Narraganset Indians. The brother of Mi
antonimoh was not only wounded, but armed with a coat of mail, both which
retarded his flight. Two of Miantonimoh' s captains, who formerly were Uncas'
men, but had treacherously deserted him, discovering his situation, took him, and
carried him to Uncas, expecting in this way to reconcile themselves to their sachem.
But Uncas and his men slew them. Miantonimoh made no request either for him
self or his men ; but continued in the same sullen, speechless mood. Uncas there-
374
CONNECTICUT.
UNCAS MONUMENT, NORWICH.
fore demanded of him why he would not speak. Said he, ( Had you taken me, T
should have besought you for my life.' Uncas, for the present, spared his life,
though he would not ask it, and returned with great triumph to Mohegan, carry
ing the Narraganset sachem, as an illustrious trophy of his victory.
During the wars between tineas and
the Narrag^ansets, Uncas was closely be
sieged in his fort, near the Thames, until
his provisions became nearly exhausted,
and he and his men were on the point of
perishing by famine and the sword. For
tunately he found means of giving intel
ligence to the scouts who had been sent
out from Saybrook Fort. By his messen
gers he represented the danger the Eng
lish would be in were the Narragansets
suffered to overpower the Mohegans.
Upon this intelligence, one Thomas Lef
fingwell, an ensign at Saybrook, an enter
prising, bold man, loaded a canoe with
beef, corn, and peas, and, under the cover
of night, paddled from Saybrook into the
Thames, and had the address to get the
whole into the fort. The enemy, soon
perceiving that Uncas was relieved, raised
the siege. For this service, Uncas gave
Leffingwell a deed of a great part, if not
the whole, of the town of Norwich. In
June, 1659, Uncas, with his two sons.
Owaneko and Awattanhood, by a more
formal and authentic deed, made over to
said Leffingwell, John Mason, Esq., the Rev. James Fitch, and others, consisting
of 35 proprietors, the whole of Norwich, which is about nine miles square. The
company, at this time, gave Uncas and his sons about 70 pounds, as a further com
pensation for so large and fine a tract.
A remnant of the Mohegan tribe, about 100 in number, of which
but six or seven are of pure blood, reside in Montville, at a place near
Thames River, three or four miles north of New London. Their res
ervation contains about 2,700 acres, which is partly cultivated by them,
and partly by white tenants. A small chapel was erected for their
benefit in 1831. The Mohegans are under the care of guardians or
overseers, appointed by the legislature. Sampson Occum, of this
tribe, was the first Indian pupil educated by the Rev. Mr. Wheelock,
and the first Indian preacher of the Gospel ever in Great Britain.
He preached with much acceptance in various places. He died at
New Stockbridge, N. Y., in 1792.
Lebanon, an agricultural township in New London county, is dis
tinguished as being the birth-place and residence of the Trumbulls,
several of whom rose to eminent stations in public life.
Jonathan Trurtibull, the patriotic governor of Connecticut, was born here in
1710, graduated at Harvard in 1727, and at the age of 23 he was elected to the
general assembly. In 1768, in consequence of his firm opposition to British tyr
anny, he was elected governor of the colony, and was annually elected until his
resignation, in 1783. His is the proud distinction of having been the only coloni
al governor who espoused the American cause. He was relied on by Washington
CONNECTICUT. 375
as one of his main pillars of support through the trying period of the revolution.
He died in 1785.
Col. John Trvmbull, the aid of Washington, the painter of the revolution, was
the son of the patriot governor, born at Lebanon, in 1756. He graduated at Har
vard College, in 1773. On the arrival of Washington in New England, he was
selected as one of his aids. In 1780, having resigned his commission, he put him
self under the tuition of West, the celebrated painter in London. As a historical
painter, Col. Trumbull has, as yet, had no equal in this country, nor has he boon
excelled in any other. He had the rare advantage of being personally ac
quainted with many of the prominent actors in the scenes he represented. He
died in New York, Nov. 10, 1853.
The house in which Gov. Trumbull resided is near the Congregational Church
of the first society in Lebanon. 10 miles N. W. of Norwich, and 30 from Hart
ford. Although a plain structure, many distinguished personages have lodged
under its roof. In the Trumbull family tomb are deposited the remains of two
governors, one commissary general, and a signer of the declaration of indepen
dence. The following inscriptions are on the pedestal standing on the tomb:
Sacred to the memory of JONATHAN TRUMBULL, Esq., who, unaided by birth or powerful
connexions, but blessed with a noble and virtuous mind, arrived to the highest station in
government. His patriotism and firmness during 50 years employment in public life, and
particularly in the very important part he acted in the American Revolution, as Governor
of Connecticut ; the faithful page of History will record.
Full of years and honors, rich in benevolence, and firm in the faith and hopes of Christ
ianity, he died August 9th, 1785, Mt&tia 75.
Sacred to the memory of Madam FAITH TRUMBULL, the amiable lady of Gov. Trumbull,
born at Duxbury, Mass. A. D. 1718. Happy and beloved in her connubial state, she lived
a virtuous, charitable, and Christian life at Lebanon, in Connecticut ; and died lamented by
numerous friends, A. D. 1780, aged 62 years.
Sacred to the memory of JOSEPH TRUMBULL, eldest son of Governor Trumbull, and first
Commissary General of the United States of America. A service to whose perpetual cares
and fatigues he fell a sacrifice, A. D. 1778, JEt. 42. Full soon indeed may his person, his
virtues, and even his extensive Benevolence be forgotten by his friends and fellow men.
But blessed be God ! for the Hope that in his presence he shall be remembered forever.
To the memory of JONATHAN TRUMBULL, Esq., late Governor of the State of Connecticut,
He was born March 26th, 1740, and died Aug. 7th, 1809, aged 69 years. His remains were
deposited with those of his Father.
This inscription is on a marble monument standing in front of the tomb :
The remains of the Hono. WILLIAM WILLIAMS are deposited in this Tomb : born April 8th,
1731: died the 2d of Aug. 1811, in the 81st year of hrs age, a man eminent for his Virtues
and Piety, — for more than 50 years he was constantly employed in Public Life, and served
in many of the most important offices in the gift of his fellow citizens. During the whole
period of the Revolutionary war, he was a firm, steady, and ardent friend of his country,
and in the darkest times risked his life and wealth in her defence. In 1776 and 1777, he
was a member of the American Congress, and as such signed the Declaration of Indepen
dence. His public and private virtues, his piety and benevolence, will long endear his
memory to his surviving friends, — above all, he was a sincere Christian, and in his last mo
ments placed his hope with humble confidence in his Redeemer. He had the inexpressible
satisfaction to look back upon a long, honorable, and well spent life.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Jonathan Edioards, by many thought the greatest of modern divines, was b<
in South Windsor, in 1702. lie was educated at Yale College, and took the
born
de
gree of Bachelor of Arts before he was seventeen years of age. In 1726, he com
menced his ministry in Northampton, Mass., where he continued for more than
376
CONNECTICUT.
23 years. In 1751, he was a missionary to the Indians at Stockbridge, Mass.,
where he remained preaching to the Indians and whites for six years. While
here, he wrote his " Freedom of the Will" which has rendered his name so cele
brated in the Christian world. In Jan., 1758, he became president of the College
of New Jersey. Before he entered fully on the duties of his station, he was in-
noculated for the small pox, of which he died in the 55th year of his age. His
son, of the same name, was also a distinguished divine.
Jonathan Carver, the earliest American traveler of note, was born in Canter
bury, in 1732. He served with distinction as a commander of a company of Con
necticut troops in the French war of 1760. After the war, he undertook the bold
design of exploring the American continent from Lake Superior to the Pacific.
He succeeded in penetrating more than a thousand miles beyond the extreme fron
tier post of Michillimackinac. He was foiled in his grand design, but after an
absence of two years, he returned and published his travels. He died in 1780, in
the suburbs of London, in extreme want.
Nathan Hale, the hero martyr of the American revolution, was born in
1725, in Coventry, the son of a Congregationalist deacon, and was educated
at Yale College. While there, he
was noted for his extraordinary
personal agility. He afterward
taught school at East Hadam,
"where everybody loved him, he
was so sprightly, intelligent and
kind." He was designed for the
ministry ; but on the outbreak of
the revolution, he entered the ar
my, and became a captain in the
Connecticut light infantry regi
ment, commanded by Col. Knowl-
ton, of Ashford.
Upon the defeat of the Americans
at. and their retreat from, Long Island,
Washington became extremely anx
ious to gain some knowledge respect
ing the enemy's future operations. It was a most dark hour in the fortunes of the
country. In 'this emergency he applied to the brave Col. Knowlton to obtain an
officer "for this service possessing the rare union of qualities necessary to success.
Knowlton called a council of his officers, and appealed to their^ patriotism, in hopes
some one would volunteer. None responded, and some were indignant in view of
the peril of detection, and an ignominious death. One officer of remarkable spirit
for hazardous adventure, replied : " No, no ! I am willing at any time, and on any
terms, to fight the British ; but I wont go among them to be hung like a dog."
Knowlton was about despairing of success, when from the assembled group
came the slow, firm words, " 1 will undertake it!" The speaker had just recov
ered from a severe illness, and was late in joining the council, or "I will under
take it," would have been heard sooner.
All eyes turned toward the speaker, and a thrill of anguish pervaded the throng
as they looked upon the pale, determined face of the universal favorite, the young
and noble NATHAN HALE! They at once closed around him, and remonstrated by
every appeal which consideration and friendship could dictate, to abandon his pur
pose. Hale calmly listened, and then replied in these memorable words :
" I think I owe to my country the accomplishment of an object so important, and so much
desired by the commander of her armies — and I know of no other mode of obtaining the
information, than by assuming a disguise and passing into the enemy's camp. I am fully
sensible of the consequences of discovery and capture in such a situation, but for a year I
have been attached to the army, and have not rendered any material service, while receiv
ing compensation for which I make no return ; yet I am not influenced by the expectation
BIRTH PLACE OF CAPTAIN NATHAN HALE.
CONNECTICUT. 377
of promotion or pecuniary reward. I wish to be useful, and every kind of service necessary for
the public good becomes honorable by beiny necessary. If the exigencies of my country demand
a peculiar service, its claiina to the performance of that peculiar kind of service are impe
rious."
This was spoken with that air of lofty heroism which showed that he was readv
to sacrifice himself, if need be, in any way, for the good of his country, even by
an ignominious death.
Hale having received instructions from Washington in person, disguised him
self, crossed over from Connecticut to Long Island, passed a week or more among
the enemy, and having accomplished the main objects of his design, was about
ready to embark in a boat for the Connecticut shore, when he was arrested and
taken on board of the Halifax, Capt. Quarme, who, finding between the soles of
his shoes drawings of the British works, with descriptions in Latin, discovered he
was a spy ! Won by his noble bearing, he expressed regret '' that so fine a fellow
had fallen into his power." He was carried to New York, and taken into the
presence of Gen. Howe, who sentenced him to be hung next morning at daybreak.
Hale was placed in custody of Maj. Cunningham, provost marshal of the city, a
brutal Irishman, who even murdered the prisoners by poisoning their food, that
he might appropriate their rations to his own benefit.
Their first interview was characteristic. Hale requested writing materials, that
he might write to his parents and friends. This was refused. He then asked for
the Bible, that he at least might have the benefit of religious consolation. With
an oath, this also was denied. A lieutenant of the royal army, then present, here
interposed with entreaty, and his requests were finally complied with. There, on
the verge of eternity, Hale for the last time communed with his loved ones. It is
thought he wrote three letters ; one to his parents, one to his brother, and the oth
er to his betrothed. They were handed over to Cunningham for delivery. Hia
eye ran eagerly over their contents, which so incensed him that he tore them to
atoms, swearing, " that the rebels should never know they had a man who could die
with such firmness ! "
The next morning, a beautiful Sabbath morning in early autumn, 1776, Hale
was marched out to the place of execution. All being ready, Cunningham, in
coarsest tones of fiend-like triumph, demanded of "the rebel" his "dying speech
and confession ; " evidently in the hope that the young man would make some re
mark that he would be able to turn into ridicule for the amusement of the depraved
among the bystanders. Bitter, however, was his disappointment. At the thought
of instant death, the face of the heroic youth lit up with an expression of holy
patriotism, and, in a clear, manly voice, he spake these noble words :
"MY ONLY REGRET IS, THAT I HAVE BUT ONE LIFE TO LOSE FOR
MY COUNTRY!"
Stung by this unexpected speech, the enraged Cunningham exclaimed:
the rebel up — Swing the rebel up !" — and, in a moment more, the spirit of Nathan
Hale had passed from earth.
" 1 have never been able," said an eye witness, years after, " to efface that scene
of horror from my mind — it rises up to my imagination always. That old devil-
catcher, Cunningham, was so brutal, and hung him up as a butcher would a calf!
The women sobbed aloud, and Cunningham swore at them for it, and told them
they, likely enough, themselves would come to the same fate."*
A lofty monument of granite rises to the memory of Nathan Hale, in the burial
place of his native town. There, among the graves of a single-hearted rural peo
ple, overlooking a beautiful lake, stands this memorial of a young man whose
short life of twenty-one years ended in so much of sorrow ; and who, dying the
* The scene at the execution of Hale has been made the subject of a touching and enno
bling composition, by that eminent American designer, F. 0. C. Darley. It was made at
the suggestion of, and for the publisher of this work, and has been engraved on steel, of
cabinet size, by Ritchie, as a presentation picture to the subscribers for the " Achievements
of Americans, illustrating their Heroism, Self- Reliance, Genius and Enterprise."
378 CONNECTICUT.
ignominious death of a spy, was rudely thrust into an unknown and unhonored
grave.
Francis Miles Finch, in a poem delivered before the Linonian Society of Yale,
to which association Hale belonged, gave some expressive verses on his death.
We annex the opening and concluding stanzas.
To drum beat and heart beat, From Fame-leaf and Angel-leaf,
A soldier passes by; From monument and urn,
There is color in his cheek; The sad of Earth, the glad of Heaven,
There is courage in his eye ; His tragic fate shall learn ;
Yet to drum beat and heart beat, And on Fame-leaf and Angel-leaf,
In a moment he must die I The name of HALB shall burn.
Benedict Arnold, one of the bravest of the American generals, as well as the
most infamous, was born in Norwich, in 1740. As a boy he was wayward, diso
bedient and unscrupulous. Taking a prejudice against a Frenchman, an accepted
suitor of his sister, he swore he would shoot him if he attempted to enter the house
again. The opportunity soon occurred, and Arnold discharged a loaded pistol at
him as he escaped through a window. The Frenchman thereupon left the place,
and Hannah Arnold died a maiden. Arnold was bred an apothecary, and from
1763 to 1767, combined the business of bookseller and druggist in New Haven,
when he commenced trading voyages to the West Indies. The house in which he
resided at New Haven is yet standing. After the war, the traitor went to Eng
land; but he was everywhere shunned as a serpent, and moving about, first to
New Brunswick, then to the West Indies, he again returned to England, and died
in 1801, at the age of 61 years. A young Virginian who was taken prisoner, was
asked by Arnold what his countrymen would do with him if they should catch
him. He promptly replied, " Bury the leg that was wounded at Quebec and Sara
toga with military honors, and hang the rest of you ! " In person, Arnold was one
of the smallest of men, being in hight only about five feet and four inches ; but
this little body was the abiding place of an iron will, an invincible spirit, and a
bad heart.
John Ledyard, the celebrated traveler, was a native of Groton ; and was partially
educated at Dartmouth College, N. H. He went to New York and sailed for Lon
don, in 1771, as a common sailor. When at London, he embarked with Capt
Cook on his second voyage of discovery. On his return, he resolved to explore
the Arctic circle on foot. He arrived at St. Petersburg in 1787. He was after
ward arrested by order of the government, and sent back to the Polish frontiers.
He returned to England, and was employed by the African association to trace the
source of the Niger. In this enterprise he died, at Cairo, Jan., 1789.
Sir Joseph Banks, one of the committee of the African association, said that on
his first interview with Ledyard, before he had even learned his name and busi
ness, he was " struck with the manliness of his person, the breadth of his eye, the
openness of his countenance, the inquietude of his eye." Banks spread before
him the map of Africa, and asked him when he would set out. (i To-morrow morn
ing!" was the instant reply of the intrepid man.
On the morning of his departure, in conversation with a friend, he spoke as
follows, concerning his checkered life : ulam accustomed to hardships. I have
known both hunger and nakedness, to the utmost extremity of human suffering.
I have known what it was to have food given me as charity to a madman ; and I
have at times been obliged to shelter myself under the miseries of that character,
to avoid a heavier calamity. My distresses have been greater than I have owned,
or ever will own to any man. Such evils are terrible to bear; but they never yet
had power to turn me from my purpose. If I live, I will faithfully perform, in its
utmost extent, my engagement to the society ; and if I perish in the attempt, my
honor will be safe, for death cancels all bonds."
His celebrated Eulogy on Woman is the most beautiful tribute to the sex extant.
LEDYARD'S EULOGY ON WOMAN.
" I have observed among all nations that the WOMEN ornament themselves more than the
men: that wherever found they are the same kind, civil, obliging, humane, tender beings;
CONNECTICUT.
379
that they are ever inclined to be gay and cheerful, timorous and modest. They do not hes
itate, like man, to perform a hospitable, generous action ; not haughty, nor arrogant, nor su
percilious, but full of courtesy, and fond of society; industrious, economical, ingenuous;
more liable, in general, to err than man, but in general, also, more virtuous, and perform
ing more good actions than he. I never addressed myself in the language of decency and
friendship to a WOMAN, whether civilized or savage, without receiving a decent and friendly
answer. With man it has often been otherwise. In wandering over the barren plains of
inhospitable Denmark, through honest Sweden, frozen Lapland, rude and churlish Finland,
unprincipled Russia, and the wide-spread regions of the wandering Tartar, if hungry, dry,
cold, wet, or sick, WOMAN has ever been friendly to me, and uniformly so; and to add to
this virtue so worthy of the appellation of benevolence, these actions have been performed
in so free and so kind a manner, that if I was dry I drank the sweet draught, and if hun
gry, ate the coarse morsel with a double relish."
Israel Putnam, a major general in the revolutionary army, was born in Salem,
Mass., in 1718. He possessed a mind of great vigor, though his education was
limited. In 1739, he removed to Pornfret, in Connecticut, where he cultivated a
farm. He was a man of great personal courage, which displayed itself on many
occasions. His daring exploit in entering a "wolf den," and shooting a wolf, and
also his "riding down stairs," at Horse Neck, when pursued by the British, are
well known. In the French and Indian war of .1755, he showed great bravery and
skill. He entered the army upon the breaking out of the revolution, and was soon
after appointed a major general. He distinguished himself at the battle of Bunker
Hill, and it is yet an unsettled point whether he or Gen. Prescott was in the chief
command of the Americans on that eventful day. " Documentary evidence," saya
Lossing, " shows that it belonged to Prescott." The truth probably is, that each
acted independently of the other, without consultation or dictation, as the conflict
progressed. He continued in the army until the close of 1779, when he was seized
with a paralytic affection, which disqualified him from further service. He died
at Brooklyn, May 29, 1 790, aged 72 years.
The "wolf den," so famous for the exploit of Putnam, is in Pomfret, forty milea
east of Hartford. A wolf had become such an intolerable nuisance to the country,
in destroying the flocks of the farmers,
that Putnam entered into a combination
with five of his neighbors to hunt alter
nately for her until they could kill her.
She was finally tracked in the snow, and
driven by the blood hounds into a den
about three miles from the house of Put
nam. The people soon collected with
dogs, guns, straw, fire and sulphur to at
tack the common enemy. All their efforts
were in vain to force her from her retreat;
and the hounds who had entered came
back wounded, and refused to return.
Putnam then proposed to his negro man to
go down into the cavern and shoot the wolf j
the negro declined the hazardous service. Then
it was that the master, angry at the disap
pointment, and declaring that he was ashamed
to have a coward iit his family, resolved himself
to destroy the ferocious beast, lest she should
escape through some unknown fissure of the
rock. His neighbors strongly remonstrated
against the perilous enterprise; but he, knowing that wild animals were intimidated by fire,
and having provided several strips of birch bark, the only combustible material which he
could obtain that would afford light in this deep and darksome cave, prepared for his de
scent. Having accordingly divested himself of his coat and waistcoat, and having a long
rope fastened around his legs, by which he might be pulled back at a concerted signal, he
entered head foremost with the blazing torch in his hand.
The aperture of the den, on the east side of a very high ledge of rocks, is about two feet
square; from thence it proceeds obliquely fifteen feet, then running horizontally about ten
more, it ascends gradually sixteen feet toward its termination. The sides of this subterra
neous cavity are composed of smooth and solid rocks, which seem to have been divided from
PUTNAM'S WOLF DEN.
380
CONNECTICUT.
each other by some former earthquake. The top and bottom are also of stone, and the en
trance in winter, being covered with ice, is exceedingly slippery. It is in no place high
enough for a man to raise himself upright, nor in any part more than three feet in width.
Having groped his passage to the horizontal part of the den, the most terrifying darkness
appeared in front of the dim circle of light afforded by his torch. It was silent as the house
of death. None but monsters of the desert had ever before explored this solitary mansion
of horror. He cautiously proceeding onward, came to the ascent; which he slowly mounted
on his hands and knees, until he discovered the glaring eyeballs of the wolf, who was sit
ting at the extremity of the cavern. Startled at the sight of fire, she gnashed her teeth,
and gave a sudden growl. As soon as he had made the necessary discovery, he kicked the
rope as a signal for pulling him out. The people at the mouth of the den, who had listened
with painful anxiety, hearing the growl of the wolf, and supposing their friend to be in the
most imminent danger, drew him forth with such celerity that his shirt was stripped over
his head and his skin severely lacerated. After he had adjusted his clothes, and loaded his
gun with nine buck-shot, holding the torch in one hand and the musket in the other, he de
scended the second time. "When he drew nearer than before, the wolf assuming a still more
fierce and terrible appearance, howling, rolling her eyes, snapping her teeth, and dropping
her head between her legs, was evidently in the attitude and on the point of springing at
him. At this critical instant he leveled and fired at her head. Stunned by the shock, and
suffocated with the smoke, he immediately found himself drawn out of the cave. But hav
ing refreshed himself, and permitted the smoke to dissipate, he went down the third time.
Once more he came within sight of the wolf, who appearing very passive, he applied the
torch to her nose, and perceiving her dead, he took hold of her ears, and then kicking the
rope (still tied around his legs), the people above, with no small exultation, dragged them
both out together.
Samuel Himtington, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and governor
of Connecticut, was born in Windham, July 3, 1732. He settled at Norwich in
early life. After having held the
office of king's attorney, and other
pub]ic officgg) he WJ' elected a
delegate to congress in 1775, and
in 1779 was chosen president of that body. He was appointed governor of the
state in 1786, and held that office until his death, Jan. 8, 1796, greatly respected for
his talents, integrity, prudence, and piety.
Ethan Allen, a brigadier general in the revolutionary army, was born in Litch-
field, in 1737, and when young emigrated with his parents to Vermont. A notice
of him is on page 214; and also on page 225, of Col. Seth Warner, who was born
in the same county, in 1744, and like him, became most honorably identified with
the history of Vermont.
Noah Webster, the author of the "American Dictionary of the English Lan
guage," was born in West Hartford, Oct. 16, 1758. His father cultivated a small
farm for his support, and though his means
were limited, he placed his son in Yale Col
lege, in Sept., 1774. Having finished his
education at the age of twenty, his father
put into his hand an eight dollar continen
tal bill, then worth about four dollars, say
ing, " You must now seek your living, I can
do no more for you ! " Too poor to prepare
for professional life, he commenced the bu
siness of school teaching.
For ten years from the commencement of
his literary course, he struggled through
many difficulties, but could discern no fa
vorable prospects, until his spirits began to
fail him, and as a relief to his mind, he un
dertook to prepare a series of books for
schools, which proved an opening which
conducted to a long career of usefulness to
BIRTH PLACE OF NOAH WEBSTER. tne American people.
The first draft of his " Spelling Book" was made in 1782. Most persons re
garded his design as useless ; only two of his friends, John Trumbull and Joel
CONNECTICUT. 381
Barlow, encouraged him with any hope of success. This work, on the whole, was
received favorably. Yet for years it made its way but slowly into schools. At
length it became quite popular, until its circulation amounted annually to a mil
lion of copies. By receiving a few mills on each copy, he was enabled to support
himself and family during the 20 years he bestowed on the preparation of the
AMERICAN DICTIONARY. This was published in 1828, in two quarto volumes of
more than 1,000 pages each. Since this time, numerous editions, in a smaller form,
have been published. In the spring of 1843, Dr. Webster added some hundreds
of words to the appendix of his dictionary. It was his last labor. After a short
illness^ he died at New Haven, where he resided, May 28, 1843, closing a long, use
ful and active life in the full triumph of Christian faith.
We conclude this notice of Mr. Webster by an anecdote related of him by Sam
uel G. Goodrich — Peter Parley — late American consul at Paris:
" In the summer of 1824, 1 was in Paris, and staying at the Hotel Montmorency.
One morning, at an early hour, I entered the court of the hotel, and on the opposite
side I saw a tall, slender form, with a black coat, black small clothes, black silk
stockings, moving back and forth, with his hands behind it, and evidently in a state
of meditation. It was a curious, quaint, Connecticut looking apparition, strangely
in contrast to the prevailing forms and aspects in this gay metropolis. 1 said to
myself, ' If it were possible, I should say that was Noah Webster ! ' I went up to
him, and found it was indeed he. At the age of sixty-six he had come to Europe
to perfect his dictionary. It is interesting to know that such tenacity of purpose,
such persistency, such courage, were combined with all the refined and amiable
qualities which dignify and embellish domestic and private life."
David Brainard, the devoted missionary to the Indians, was born in Haddam,
Conn., April 20, 1718. From his earliest youth he was remarkably serious and
thoughtful. uln 1739, he entered Yale College as a student; and in 1743, he was
expelled from that institution, first, because he had disobeyed orders, in attending
prohibited meetings of those who were attached to the preaching of Whitefield
and Tennant, and secondly, because he indiscreetly questioned the piety of one
of the tutors, and would not acknowledge his error. He then commenced theolog
ical studies, with a view of becoming a missionary, for he ardently desired to be a
teacher of the poor Indians, in the knowledge of the gospel. At the age of twenty-
five years he began his labors among the Stockbridge Indians, in the vicinity of
Kinderhook, New York. He lived in a wigwam, slept on straw, and ate boiled
corn, hasty-pudding, and samp. Though feeble in body, and often ill, he perse
vered ; and when, in 1744, his 'flock' agreed to go to Stockbridge, he went with
his glad tidings to the Delaware Indians. He continued in the vicinity of Easton
nearly a year, during which time he visited the tribes on the Susquehannah in the
Wyoming Valley and vicinity. Then he returned, and took up his abode among
the New Jersey Indians at Crosswicks, where he was remarkably successful. In
less than a year, he baptized seventy-seven converts, and the whole tribe became
thoroughly reformed in their morals. His health gradually gave way, and he was
compelled to leave the field of duty where his heart lingered. He went to Boston
in July, 1747, and returning to Northampton, he took up his abode with Jonathan
Edwards. In the family of that great and good man his flower of life faded, and
when the leaves began to fall in autumn, he fell, like an apple early ripe, into the
lap of the grave. His spirit went from earth on the 9th of October, 1747, when he
was only twenty-nine years of age."
"If the greatness of a character is to be estimated by the object it pursues, the
danger it braves, the difficulties it encounters, and the purity and energy of its
motives, David Brainard is one of the greatest characters that ever appeared in
the world. Compared with this standara of greatness, what little things are the
Alexanders, the Caesars, the conquerers of the whole earth. A nobler object no
human or angelic mind could ever propose to itself, than to promote the glory of
the great Governor of the Universe, in studying and laboring to diffuse purity and
happiness among his unholy and miserable creatures. His constitutional melan
choly, though it must be regarded as a physical imperfection, imparts an additional
interest and pathos to the narrative, since we more easily sympathize with the
emotion of sorrow than of joy."
382 CONNECTICUT.
Roger Sherman, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born in New
ton, Massachusetts, on the 19th of April, in the year 1722. While he was an
infant, his parents removed to Stonington, where he resided until the death of
his father in 1741. He was apprenticed to a shoemaker; his early education
was limited, but hav-
ing a strong and ac-
of knowledge from
books during his ap
prenticeship. He re
moved to Connecticut in 1744; after which, giving his attention to the study of
law, he was admitted to the bar in 1754. At the breaking out of the revolution
he was sent a delegate to congress, and being one of the most active members of
that body, he was appointed one of the immortal committee of five to prepare a
declaration of independence. He represented Connecticut in the U. S. senate at
the time of his death, July 23, 1793. He died at New Haven, of which he was
the first mayor under the city charter.
William Williams, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born at
Lebanon. He graduated at Yale College at the age of twenty. His father and
grandfather were both clergymen,
and young Williams commenced the-
ologlcal studies with his father.
The agitations of the French war
attracted his attention, and he en
tered the service under a rela
tive. He married the daughter of
Governor Trumbull, in 1772, and in
1775 was chosen a delegate to the general congress. See page 375.
Oliver Wolcott, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born in South
Windsor, in 1726. He was the son of Gov. Roger Wolcott, graduated at Yale
College in 1747, and in 1748 com
manded a company of soldiers in the
war a£ainsfc tne French in Canada :
in 1751> he was appointed high sheriff
of Litchfield county. He was a dele.
gate to the continental congress, and
held various offices in his native state at the same time. Though singularly mod
est, and even diffident in his intercourse with men, he possessed an iron will in the
performance of what he believed to be his duty. He was elected governor in
1796, and died Dec. 1, 1797, in the 72d year of his age.
Roger Griswold, governor of Connecticut, was the son of Matthew Griswold,
who was lieut. governor of the colony before the revolution, and chosen governor
of the state the year after its close. He was born at Lyme, in 1762, graduated at
Yale, in 1780; in 1794, was chosen member of congress; 1807, was appointed
judge of the superior court of Connecticut; in 1811, was elected governor of the
state, and died the succeeding year. " He was regarded as one of the first men
of the nation in talents, political knowledge and force of eloquence ; and was dis
tinguished by his integrity, public spirit and graceful manners."
John Trumbull, the author of M'Fingal, was born in Watertown, Litchfield
county, April 24, 1750. He was the son of a clergyman of the same name, was
educated at Yale College, and in 1773 was admitted to the bar in Connecticut. In
1775, he wrote the first part of his M'Fingal, which was published immediately at
Philadelphia, where congress was then sitting. He removed from New Haven to
Hartford in 1781, and the next year the poem, M'Fingal, was there completed and
published. It is highly satirical throughout, directed against the enemies of Amer
ican liberty, holding up to scorn and contempt the tories, the British officers, na
val, military and civil in America. In 1801, Trumbull was appointed judge of the
CONNECTICUT. 383
superior court, which office he held until 1819. In 1825, he removed to Detroit to
reside with his daughter, where he died in 1831.
Joel Barlow, a poet, and minister to France, was born at Reading, in 1758. He
graduated at Yale College, served a short time as volunteer in the army of the
revolution, and afterward as chaplain of a regiment. After the revolution, he
went to England as agent for the sale of lands, and from thence crossed over to
France, where he made himself popular by his zeal in the cause of the revolu
tion. In 1791, he returned to England, and published his "Advice to Privileged
Orders," and the "Conspiracy of Kings." In 1795, he was appointed consul at
Algiers. In 1805, he returned from his residence in Paris to the United States,
and settled in Georgetown. In 1808, he published his " Columbiad," his principal
work, and largest American poem. In 1811, he was appointed minister to France.
He died at Zarnowica, a small village near Cracow, in Poland, Dec. 22, 1812, while
on his way to visit the Emperor Napoleon, at Wilna.
Isaac Hull, a commodore in the American navy, was born in Derby, in 1775.
His father, an officer of 'the revolution, was for a long time confined in the Jersey
prison ship. Isaac entered the navy in 1798, as lieutenant, on board the Consti
tution. He was connected with the exploits before Tripoli, and was with Gen.
Eaton in his expedition from Egypt against Algiers. The first exploit which
brought him into general notice was the admirable seamanship displayed in his
escape in July, 1812, when in command of the Constitution, of 44 guns, from a
British squadron, consisting of one ship of the line, four frigates, a brig and a
schooner. The chase continued for sixty hours. On the 19th of August, 1812,
Capt. Hull, with the same vessel and crew, fell in with a large frigate, which struck
to him after a close action of thirty minutes. She proved to be his majesty's
ship, the Guerriere, carrying fifty guns ; commanded by Capt. J. R. Dacres. At
the time the Guerriere surrendered she had not a spar standing, and her hull be
low and above water was so shattered, that a few more broadsides must have car
ried her down. This signal victory made the whole land ring with joy, and the
" Old Ironsides" as the Constitution was called, became the favorite ship in Amer
ican history. Hull died in 1843, leaving a reputation unsurpassed in our naval
annals for skillful seamanship and personal bravery.
Charles Morris, a commodore in the American navy, was born in Connecticut,
in 1783, and entered the navy as a midshipman on board the Constitution. He
was with Decatur in the Intrepid, in the perilous enterprise for the destruction of
the Philadelphia, in the harbor of Tripoli, and was the first man to leap, cutlass
in hand, on the deck of the enemy. For his bravery on this and other occasions,
he was promoted to the rank of lieutenant; but it was in the desperate en
counter between the Constitution and the Guerriere that he distinguished himself
most conspicuously ; with his own hands he endeavored to lash the two ships to
gether, and exhibited a daring in the desperate conflict that could not be sur
passed. He was shot through the body in the action. For his bravery on this
occasion he was promoted at once two grades, to that of commander. He died in
1856, aged 72 years, after having been in the service of his country for more than
55 years. He was at that time chief of the bureau of ordnance and hydrography,
at Washington. It has been said of him, that in all the various qualities which
constitute excellence in his profession, he was the ablest naval commander in the
world.
Isaac Chauncey, a commodore in the American navy, was born about the year
1775, at Black Rock, near Bridgeport, and entering the mercantile marine, he
early became conspicuous for his maritime talents and energy, being entrusted at
19 years of age with the command of a vessel. In 1798, he entered the navy as a
lieutenant of the Constitution. His conduct as acting captain of the Constitution,
in several actions off Tripoli, received high praise. In the war of 1812, he was
commander of the naval force on Lake Ontario, but did not succeed in bringing
the enemv to action. He died in 1840, at which time he was president of the bu
reau of navy commissioners.
Abiel Holmes, clergyman and author, was born at Woodstock, in 1763, gradu-
384 CONNECTICUT.
ated at Yale College, went to the south as private teacher, and there became pas
tor of a church in Midway, Georgia. In 1791, he was chosen pastor of the Con
gregational Church at Cambridge, Mass. In 1805, his Annals of America was
first issued ; a second edition, bringing down the events to 1827, was published at
Cambridge, in 1829. He died in 1837. As a faithful chronicler, his memory de
serves remembrance. He is much quoted in this volume.
Gen. William Eaton was born at Woodstock, 1764, and at 16 years ran away from home
and enlisted as a private soldier in the army of the revolution. In 1790, he graduated at
Dartmouth, in 1792 was commissioned captain in the army, and in 1797 was appointed con
sul at Tunis. In 1804, Gen. Eaton returned to America and visited Washington, where he
disclosed the famous enterprise which he had planned to restore the ex-bashaw of Tripoli ;
and having obtained the sanction of government, he embarked in July of the same year, in
the Argus sloop of war, with the intention of engaging in this bold and hazardous under
taking, and arrived at Alexandria, in Egypt, on the 25th of November following. From
Alexandria he proceeded to Cairo, where he found the ex-bashaw, who approved of the en
terprise ; and after having made suitable arrangements, and recruited about 500 men (100
of whom only were Christians), it was determined by Eaton and the ex-bashaw to cross the
desert, and seize the province and the city of Derne. After a difficult and fatiguing jour
ney through a dreary desert, presenting innumerable obstacles, they arrived within the
province of Derne, and soon attacked and captured the city, having the assistance of the
Hornet sloop of war. The boldness and desperate bravery of Gen. Eaton and his little
party, alarmed the reigning bashaw and his barbarian subjects, who almost thought they
were something more than human beings; but the progress of Gen. Eaton was arrested by
a peace which the American consul concluded with the bashaw. After this, Gen. Eaton re
turned to his native country, and was everywhere received with the most distinguished ap
plause, the grateful tribute of patriotic and heroic achievements. After some time he fixed
his residence in Brimfield, Mass., where he continued until his death, in 1811. While
here, he was elected a representative of the town in the legislature of the state.
Gen. Eaton was a very extraordinary character; he possessed much original genius, was
bold in his conceptions, ardent in his passions, determined in his resolutions, and indefatiga-
bly persevering in his conduct. He possessed considerable literary acquirements ; and the
style of his writings was characteristic of his mind.
EliJiu Yale, the early benefactor of Yale College, and from whom the institution was
named, was born in New Haven, in 1648, left it in boyhood, and finally emigrated to the
East Indies, where he became governor of Fort George, and married a fortune. " He was
a gentleman who greatly abounded in good humor and generosity, as well as in wealth."
The following is a copy of his epitaph at Wrexham, Wales :
" Under this tomb lyes inter'd Elihu Yale, of Place Gronew, Esq.; born 5th April, 1648, and dyed the
8th of July, 1721, aged 73 years.
Born in America, in Europe bred,
In Afric travell'd and in Asia wed,
Where long he lived and thrived : at London dead.
Much good, some ill he did : so hope all 's even,
And that his soul thro' mercy ?s gone to Heaven.
You that survive and read, take care
For this most certain Exit to prepare,
For only the Actions of the Just
Smell sweet and blossom in the Dust."
THE SOLDIER'S MONUMENT AT MILFORD.
This monument was erected in 1852, under the patronage of the state. It is of freestone,
thirty feet in hight, and stands a few rods distant from the line of the New York and New
Haven Railroad. Upon it are the names of the soldiers who died at Milford; and the side
fronting the south has the following inscription :
IN HONOR OF forty-six American Soldiers, who sacrificed their lives in struggling for the Independence
of their country, this Monument was erected in 1852, by the joint liberality of the General Assembly, the
people of Milford, and other contributing friends.
Two hundred American Soldiers, in a destitute, sickly and dying condition, were brought from a Brit
ish Prison Ship, then lying near New York, and suddenly cast on our shore from a British cartel ship, on
the first of January, 1777.
The inhabitants of Milford made the most charitable efforts for the relief of the strangers ; yet, notwith
standing all their kind ministrations, in one month these forty-six died, and were buried in one common
grave.
Their names and residences are inscribed on this Monument.
Who shall say that Republics are ungrateful 1
NEW YORK.
THERE is reason to believe that the first Europeans who landed on the soil
of New York were the crew of a French vessel under the command of Ver-
razzano, a Florentine in the service of
Francis I of France. He sailed in
this direction to make new discoveries.
He entered a harbor supposed to have
been that of New York about the 20th
of April, 1524, where he continued
some fifteen days, occasionally landing
and trading with the natives.
In 1609, Henry Hudson, an Eng
lishman in the service of the Dutch
East India Company, entered the har
bor of New York and proceeded up
the river since called by his name to
about where Albany now stands. This
discovery gave the Dutch an entrance
into the interior of the American con
tinent, where the best furs could be
procured. About four years afterward
a company of merchants, who had pro
cured from the state's general a patent for an exclusive trade to Hudson's
River, built a fort and trading-house at Fort Orange, now Albany. About
the same time another fort and trading-house were established on the south
west point of Manhattan Island and called New Amsterdam, now New York.
The whole colony received the name of New Netherlands.
In 1625, the Dutch West India Company freighted two ships, in which
Peter Minuet sailed, the first governor or director of New Netherlands. In
1629, the company adopted a charter which gave great encouragement to
those who should send out settlers. Such as should undertake to plant a
colony of fifty souls upward of fifteen years old were to be acknowledged Pa-
troons, a name denoting something baronial and lordly in rank and means.
They were allowed to select lands for miles in extent, which should descend
to their posterity forever. Under this charter, several directors of the com
pany availed themselves of its privileges.
In 1647, Peter Stuyvesant arrived at Fort Amsterdam as governor. He
was a brave old officer, and had been commissioned governor-general of Cu-
(385)
ARMS OF NEW YORK.
Motto : Excelsior — Higher.
' 386 NEW YORK.
racoa and the Dutch West Indies. He laid claim to all the lands and streams
from Cape Henlopen to Cape Cod. He went to Hartford and demanded a
surrender to the Dutch of all the lands on Connecticut River. These claims
were opposed, and left to the decision of arbitrators. Long Island was di
vided; the eastern part was to be held by the English, the western by the
Dutch; to the main, the boundaries were amicably adjusted.
In 1664, Charles II, of England disregarding the Dutch claim to New Neth
erlands, made a grant to his brother, the Duke of York and Albany, which
included all the main land of New England, beginning at St. Croix, extending
to the Rivers Connecticut and Hudson, "together with the said river called
Hudson's River, and all the lands from the west side of Connecticut River to
the east side of Delaware Bay." In order to enforce this claim, three ships
with 600 men were sent over under the command of Col. Nichols. On his
arrival at Manhattan he demanded the surrender of the fort. Governor Stuy-
vesant was exceeding loth to give up, but the terms offered being exceeding
liberal the people compelled him to surrender.
Nichols assumed the government as deputy-governor under the Duke of York
"of all his territories in America." New Amsterdam was now called, in honor of
the Duke, New York, and Fort Orange, Albany. At this time the Dutch inhabi
tants were about 6,000 in number. New Amsterdam, it is said, contained about
3,000 persons, near half of whom returned to Holland. Their habitations, how
ever, were soon occupied by emigrants, partly from Great Britain, but mostly from
New England. Upon Hudson River were many Dutch settlers.
Colonel Lovelace succeeded Nichols in the government. A\rar having been de
clared against Holland, the Dutch sent over a'small squadron, which arrived at
Staten Island, July 30, 1763. Capt. Manning, who had the charge of the defense of
New York (much against the wishes of the English inhabitants), surrendered un
conditionally to the Dutch without firing a gun. By a treaty of peace in 1674. it
was restored to the English. The Duke of York, to remove all controversy re
specting his property in America, took out a new patent from the king, and com
missioned Major Edmund Andros "governor of New York and all his territories in
these parts." Andros, who was tyrannical in his disposition, became quite unpop
ular, and involved himself in disputes with the neighboring colony of Conneet-
icut.
The province of New York about the year 1678 contained twenty-four towns,
villages and parishes. The city of New York had 3,430 inhabitants, and owned
only three ships, eight sloops and seven boats. All the estates in the colony were
valued at £150,000. Colonel Dongan succeeded Andros in 1683. In 1686, James
II having come to the throne on the renewal of Governor Dongan's commission, re
fused to confirm the privileges granted when he was Duke of York The assembly
was prohibited, and orders were given to Dongan to "suffer no printing-press in his
government." Much disaffection arose at this time among the colonists on account
of the appointment of professed Catholics to the principal crown offices.
In 1687, the French aimed a blow which threatened the British interests in
North America. Denonville, with 1,500 French from Canada and 500 Indians, at
tacked the Senecas, one of the Five Nations, who were the friends of the English.
A battle took place near the principal Seneca village, in which 100 Frenchmen, 10
French Indians and about 80 of the Senecas were killed. For this and other out
rages committed by the French the confederated Five Nations thirsted for revenge.
On the 26th of July, 1688, twelve hundred of their men landed on the south side of
the island of Montreal while the French were in perfect security, burnt their
houses, sacked their plantations, and killed all the men, women and children with
out the skirts of the town. A thousand French were slain in this invasion, and
twenty-six carried into captivity and burnt alive. In 1690, a party of French and
Indians surprised Schenectady, in the depth of winter, at night, murdered sixty
persons and burnt the place.
In 1689, Governor Dongan being recalled by King James, one Jacob Leisler took
NEW YORK. 387
possession of the garrison for King William and Mary, and assumed the govern
ment of the province. Upon the arrival of Governor Slaughter at New York, who
was commissioned by the king, Leisler refused to surrender the garrison, for the
seizure of which he and his son were tried and condemned as guilty of high trea
son. Governor Slaughter hesitated to command their execution, and wrote to the
English ministers how to dispose of them. Their enemies fearing a reaction in
their favor invited the governor to a sumptuous entertainment, who when his reason
was drowned in wine was seduced to sign the death-warrant. Before he recovered
his senses the prisoners were executed.
Slaughter was succeeded by Colonel Fletcher, who made considerable disturb
ance by his efforts to establish the Episcopal form of church government in the
province. He also attempted, in virtue of his commission, to take the command of
the militia of Connecticut.
In J698, llichard Earl of Bellamont arrived as successor of Fletcher. He was
sent over to suppress piracy which then prevailed in the American seas. The earl
was succeeded by Lord Combury, whose dissolute habits and ignoble manners dis
gusted the people.
Brigadier-General Robert Hunter, a native of Scotland, arrived as governor in
June, 1710. After a wise and popular administration, he left the province in
1719, and in 1720 was succeeded by Wm. Burnet, son of the celebrated Bishop
Burnet. His administration of seven years was prosperous. The persecutions in
France at this period, after the edict of Nantz, drove many Protestants to thip
province. The most wealthy settled in the city; others planted New Kochelle, and
other places.
In 1728, Col. Montgomery succeeded Governor Burnet, and he by Rip Van Dam.
William Cosby and George Clarke, each in turn. In 1743, George Clinton, the
son of the Earl of Lincoln, succeeded Mr. Clarke as governor of the colony. His
arrival was highly gratifying, and harmony prevailed.
In 1744, war was declared between France and England, and large appropria
tions were made by the assembly of New York to carry it on. After Clinton was
James de Lancey, and in 1755 Sir Charles Hardy.
During the seven years previous to the reduction of Canada in 1760, New York
became the theater of many important military operations. A French army under
Dieskau invaded the province from Montreal in 1755, and was routed by the New
York and New England troops under General Johnson. The French, under
Montcalm, in 1757 took Fort William Henry, on Lake George. An unsuccessful at
tack, accompanied with great, loss, was made by General Abercrombie, in 1758, on
the French fort at Ticonderoga. In 1759, General Amherst took Ticonderoga and
Crown Point, and General Johnson defeated a French army near Niagara and took
that post. The conquest of Canada, by preventing the incursions of the French and
Indians into the territory of New York, removed a great obstacle to the prosperity
of the colony.
In 1763, the celebrated controversy with New Hampshire, respecting boundaries,
commenced. The territory in question comprised what is now Vermont. The
claim of New York arose on account of the grant given to the Duke of York of "all
the lands west of Connecticut River." The government of New Hampshire in
1 760 made large grants of lands to settlers west of the Connecticut, and the settle
ments progressed with great rapidity. To check these proceedings, Governor Col-
den, of New York, issued a proclamation claiming jurisdiction as far east as Con
necticut River. The governor of New Hampshire issued a proclamation in opposi
tion, declaring the grant of the Puke of York to be obsolete, and that New Hamp
shire extended as far west as Massachusetts and Connecticut. This controversy
continued until after the revolution, when Vermont was admitted into the Union as
an independent state.
During the revolutionary war, the territory of New York was again traversed^ by
hostile armies. In September, 1776, the British forces occupied 'the city of New
York, and kept possession of it during the war. The battle of White Plains was
fought Oct. 28, 1776, and Fort Washington, Nov. 16th of the same year. Ticonde
roga and Crown Point was occupied by Gen. Burgoyne in 1777, who, however, was
compelled to surrender his whole force, consisting of nearly 6,000 men, to Gen.
25
388 NEW YORK.
Gates at Saratoga, October 17, 1777. During the same year a state constitution
was formed. In 1779, Gen. Sullivan was sent with a force of 3,000 men against
the Six Nations, the most of whom had been induced by Sir John Johnson to take
up arms against the Americans. The Indians were routed. Gen. Sullivan and
Gen. Clinton penetrated to the heart of the Seneca country, burnt eighteen towns
and villages, and spread desolation on every side. The year 1780 was distinguished
by the treason of Arnold at West Point and the capture of Andre, the British spy.
The British troops evacuated the city of New York, November 25, 1783.
During the war of 1812, with Great Britain, the frontiers of New York and its
vicinity became the theater of important military operations. The battle of Queens-
town, on the Canada side, was fought October 13, 1812. In 1813, York, U. C., was
taken April 27th. Gen. Pike was killed. Fort George was taken by the U. S.
troops May 27th. Perry captured the British fleet on Lake Erie, September 10th.
Fort Niagara was captured by the British, December 19th, and Buffalo was burnt
about the same time.
The year 1814 was distingushed by several severe and bloody conflicts on the
Canada side of the Niagara. Fort Brie was taken by Gen. Brown, July 3d; the
battle of Chippewa was fought July 5th ; the battle of l3ridgewater, July 25th. On
the llth of September, Sir George Provost, with an army of 14,000 men, made a
descent upon Plattsburg, but was compelled to retire with great loss. The British
fleet under Commodore Downie was captured by Commodore Macdonough on the
same day.
On the termination of the war the great plan for the internal navigation of the
state was resumed. The Erie and Champlain canals were commenced and vigor
ously prosecuted. The Erie canal from Albany to Buffalo was completed in 1825,
at an expense of about eight millions of dollars. In 1839, an outbreak took place
among the tenants on the lienssellaer estate. The anti-renters held meetings, and
refused the payment of rents. The disturbances continued for several years. In
1845, Deputy-Sheriff Steele was murdered while serving a process of law. Gov
ernor Wright declared Delaware county to be in a state of insurrection. The mil
itary were ordered out, and the anti-renters were effectually quelled. In 1846, the
constitution of the state was amended and revised. In 1851, that great work, the
New York and Erie railroad, was completed at an expense of about twenty-three
millions of dollars.
New York, the most wealthy and populous state in the Union, is situated
between 40° 31' and 45° Ol/ N. Lat., and between 71° 50' and 79° 56' W.
Long., and contains an area of 46,000 square miles. Excluding Long Island,
it is 408 miles long, and its breadth from north to south about 310 miles. It
is bounded on the north by Lake Ontario, St. Lawrence River and Lower
Canada; on the south by the Atlantic Ocean, New Jersey and Pennsylvania;
on the west by Pennsylvania, Lake Erie and the Niagara River, and on the
east by Lake Champlain, Vermont, Massachusetts and Connecticut. Popu
lation in 1790, 340,120; in 1800, 586,756; in 1820, 1,372,812; in 1840,
2,428,921; in 1850, 3,097,394; in 1855, 3,470,059.
The face of the state presents every variety of surface, from the rich plains
at the west to the rugged mountains of the east and north-east. The eastern
part is crossed by two chains of lofty elevations, rising to a hight of from
1,200 to 1,700 feet. One of these ridges, entering from New Jerse}' on the
south-west, strikes the Hudson River at West Point, is there divided by the
stream, and resumes its prominence on the opposite shore, showing almost
perpendicular walls on each side, as though broken asunder by some sudden
convulsion. These remarkable hights are known as the "Highlands." From
the eastern margin of the river they take a northerly course, in detached
masses. A second range enters the state from the north-west side of New
Jersey, which passes north from the Shawangunk Mountains. A third, from
the northerly part of Pennsylvania, proceeds in the same direction through a
NEW YORK.
389
great portion of the state, rising in some places to a hight of 3,800 feet,
known as the "Catskill Mountains."
In the north-east part of the state the Adirondack Mountains are very
lofty, one peak of which rises 6,460 feet. In the eastern and southern sec
tions the surface is hilly and sometimes broken; the western section is gen
erally level, and the soil well adapted to the growth of grain. The principal
rivers are the Hudson, 324 miles long, navigable 150 miles to Troy; the
Mohawk, 135 miles long, falls into the Hudson; the Genesee, 125 miles long,
and the Black River, 120 miles, flow into Lake Ontario.
New York has the honor of giving the strongest impulse of any state in
the Union to a system of public works on a great scale. The Erie canal was
commenced in 1817, and from that period to the present time there has been
a constant and gigantic system of internal improvements carried on, both in
canal and railroad communications, in almost every part of the state. Her
principal city, from its admirable position arid magnificent harbor, possesses
facilities for trade superior to any other on the continent, "and holds only
the second commercial position on the earth, and in the amount of shipping
surpasses even London, her great commercial rival."
NEW YORK, the commercial metropolis of the United States, is on the is
land of Manhattan, at the head of New York Bay, and at the confluence of
the Hudson River and the strait called the East River, which connects the
bay with Long Island Sound. The latitude at the City Hall is 40° 42' 40"
N., and the longitude is 74° 01' 08" W. from Greenwich. Distance in miles
from Albany, 145; Boston, 236; Philadelphia, 87; Baltimore, 185; Washington,
Situation of New York.
The outline gives a bird's-eye view of New York and vicinity as it appears from over Williamsburg.
East River is in front ; the Navy-Yard and part of Brooklyn on the left, beyond which is Governor's Is
land and Staten Island. New York is in the central part, at the southern extremity of which, on the left,
is the Battery and Castle Garden. Over the city is seen Hudson River and the New Jersey shore, with
Jersey City and Hoboken.
223; Cleveland, 503; Cincinnati, 758; Chicago, 856; Saint Louis, 1,137; New
Orleans, 1,663.
Manhattan Island, the whole of which is embraced within the chartered
limits of the city, is 13J miles in length, with a breadth, at its widest part,
on Eighty-eighth street, of 2J miles, and an area of 22 square miles. The
bay of New York spreads to the southward, and is about eight miles long,
and from 1J to 5J broad, with a circumference of about 25 miles. It is one
390
NEW YORK.
of the finest and most beautiful harbors on the globe, with a depth sufficient
for the largest ships, and a capacity to contain, all the shipping of the world.
It is well defended by fortifications — at the Narrows, where it is entered
from the ocean ; on Staten, Governor's, Bedlow's and Ellis's Island, and also
on the entrance from the Sound on East River. The population of New
York in 1790 was 33,131; in 1810, 96,373; in 1830, 202,589; in 1840,
312:710; in 1850, 515,394, and in 1860, 821,113. The suburbs of New
York, consisting of Brooklyn, Jersey City, Hoboken, etc., with the city itself,
sum up now a total population of about 1,200,000.
New York derives its origin from the colonizing and commercial spirit of
the Hollanders and the general zest of adventure which prevailed among the
maritime nations of Europe after the discovery of America. The following
sketch of its history is from Hay ward's Gazeteer :
The first settlement made on Manhattan Island, with a view to permanent occu
pancy, was by the Dutch in 1615. In 1629, being resolved to establish a colony at
New Amster
dam, as New
York was then
called, they ap
pointed \Valter
Van Twiller gov
ernor, who held
the office nine
years. In 1635,
th e governor
erected a sub
stantial fort, and
in 1643 a house
of worship was
built in the
south-east cor
ner of the fort,
This building was of stone, and was built by the Dutch in 1C44. It stood on
the corner of Pearl-street and Coeuties Slip. It was razed in 1700.
STADT HUTS OK CITY HALL, NEW YOEK.
In 1644, a city
h all or atadt
house was erect
ed, which was on the corner of Pearl-street and Coenties Slip. In 1653. a Avail of
earth and stones was built from Hudson River to East River, designed as a de
fense against the Indians, immediately north of Wall-street, which from that cir
cumstance received its name. The first public wharf was built in 1658, where
Whitehall-street now is.
The administration of Governor Stuyvesant, the last of the Dutch governors,
terminated, after a continuance of 17 years, with the capture of the colony by the
English, in 1664, when the city was named New York, in honor of James, Duke
of York. The property of the Dutch West India Trading Company was all con
fiscated. The number of inhabitants was then about 3,000.
In 1673, the Dutch re-took the city from the English, it having been surrendered
by Captain Manning without firing a gun. It was restored to the English the next
year, and Captain Manning was tried for cowardice and treachery, and sentenced
to have his sword broken over his head. The inhabitants were all then required
to take the oath of allegiance to the English government. As descriptive of the
commercial condition of the city at that period, Gov. Andros, in his report to the
government in England, in 1678, says:
"Our principal places of trade are New York and Kingston, except Albany for the In
dians. Our buildings most wood, some lately stone and brick ; good country houses, and
strong of their severall kindes. A merchant worth £1000, or £500, is accompted a good
substantiall merchant, and a planter worth half that in moveables accompted rich ; all es
tates may be valued att about £150,000 : there may lately have traded to ye colony, in a
yeare, from 10 to 15 ships or vessels, of about togeather 100 tunns each, English, New Eng-
NEW YORK. 391
land, and oure own built, of which five small ships and a ketch now belonging to New
York, foure of them built there."
In 1686, James II abolished the representative system, and prohibited the use of
printing presses. A meeting of commissioners, denominated a congress of the sev
eral colonies, was this year assembled at New York. A regulation for lighting the
city was established in 1697, requiring that lights be put in the .windows of the
houses fronting on the streets, on a penalty of nine-pence for every night's omis
sion; and that a lighted lantern be hung out upon a pole at every seventh house,
the expense to be borne equally by the seven intervening houses. In 1703, Wall-
street was paved from William-street to the English (Trinity) Church. The Pres
byterian ministers were prohibited from preaching by Governor Cornbury in 1707,
and two of their number were arrested and tried for violating this prohibition, but
Nieuw Amsterdam (Neiv York) in 1659.
A, the fort. B, the church. C, tlve windmill. D, the flag, hoisted on the arrival of vessels in port. E,
the prison. F, house of the general. G, place of execution. H, place of expose or pillory.
they were discharged on their paying $220 costs. In 1719, a Presbyterian church
was built in Wall-street.
In 1725, the New York Gazette, a weekly newspaper, was established. The first
stage began to run between New York and Boston in 1732. It made its trips once
a month, and was fourteen days on the journey. In 1745, Lady Murray owned the
only coach in New York. The city, the next year, contained 1,834 houses and
11,717 inhabitants, all lying below the Park, having increased about 1,000 in nine
years. A theater was opened in 1750. From this time to the period of the revo
lution streets were laid out and built upon, more or less, as far north as Murray-
street,
In consequence of the disastrous issue of the battle of Long Island, soon after the
commencement of the war in 1776, the city was taken possession of by the British
army, under Lord Howe, and occupied by them until November 25, 1783, when
they evacuated it upon the independence of the United States being established.
On that day General Washington, at the head of the American army, entered the
city. The British had erected works across the Island, near Duane-street. After
the devastation committed by the British upon the houses of worship, the college,
and other public institutions, and in consequence of the loss of the books and ac
counts of the corporation, which had been carried off by the treasurer, who joined
the British and left the country, much difficulty was found in tracing out and se
curing various descriptions of the public property.
The whole increase of the population of New York, during a century of the
English rule, did not exceed 20,000, which at the present day must seem greatly
disproportionate to its commercial advantages in relation to the American colonies,
£92 NEW YORK.
and under the auspices of such a nation as Great Britain. But when we consider
the strange and unnatural restrictions thrown around the colonies by the mother
country, our surprise is diminished. Gov. Cornbury, writing from New York to
his superiors at home, in 1705, says:
"I hope I may be pardoned if I declare my opinion to be that all these colloneys, which
are but twigs belonging to the main tree, ought to be kept entirely dependent upon and
subservient to England ; and that can never be if they are suffered to go on in the notions
they have, that as they are Englishmen so they may set up the same manufactures here as
people may do in England."
In conformity with this policy, the people of New York were not allowed to
manufacture cloths of any kind, except for their own use. After the close of the
revolution the city contained 23,614 inhabitants, being an increase of about 2,000
in fifteen years.
In 1785, the first congress after the war was organized in New York, in th* City
Hall, where the Custom House now stands; and here, four years later, when the
constitution had been adopted, Washington was inaugurated president of the
United States.
From this time, in our country, commences the period of modern history, so to
speak, and the most important events in the annals of the city must be compara
tively familiar to the reader. For a place of such magnitude, New York can not
be considered unhealthy. It has enjoyed as great an exemption as cities of this
class in most countries from the ravages of epidemic diseases. It has been four
times visited by yellow fever, viz. : in 1742, in 1798, in 1805, and 1822. The dis
ease was the most fatal in 1798, when it prevailed from July to November, and the
deaths amounted to 2,086.
The city, with other cities large and small, suffered severely from Asiatic cholera
in the years 1832, 1834 and 1849. The deaths in July and August, 1832, num
bered 4,673, and during the year, 9,975. The deaths during the year 1850% a year
of ordinary health, were 15,377, which is a ratio of one to thirty-three of the pop
ulation. This ratio does not vary materially from that of other northern cities of
the largest class.
The most extensive and destructive fire which has ever occurred in New York
was that of the 16th of December, 1835, which swept over between thirty and forty
acres of the most valuable part of the city, densely occupied with stores and filled
with the richest merchandise. About 650 buildings were consumed, and the
amount of property destroyed was estimated, by a committee appointed to ascertain
the loss, at nearly $18,000,000. Under this heavy calamity, the wealth and recu
perative energies of the city were in a wonderful manner demonstrated, as in an
incredibly short time the whole burned district was covered again with stores and
with public edifices more costly, convenient and elegant than before.
The first formal charter of the city was granted June 12, 1665. This has been
superseded by a second, and also by a third, granted in 1730, which, though much
changed by acts of the legislature, forms the basis of the present rights and priv-
iliges of the city. The present charter, by the New York legislature, was granted
in 1831.
The city is divided at present into wards, each of which annually elects an alder
man and an assistant alderman, to each of the two boards respectively, which con
stitute the common council. The mayor is chosen annually by the electors of the
city.
It is now 245 years since the passengers of a Dutch emigrant vessel established
their rude habitations on the southern extremity of Manhattan Island. The an
nals of the city, during the period which has intervened, and more especially since
the country became an independent nation, illustrate its unexampled progress in
population, wealth and commercial greatness. "In these respects, it may be safely
said, that history affords no equal example of prosperity; and, if we may anticipate
the lapse of another century, its extent and population will stand with scarcely a
rival among the cities of the world."
The harbor is everywhere well protected against the influence of streams,
but especially within the East River, which is the part most closely land-
NEW YORK.
393
locked. Here the largest number of vessels always lie, presenting, in the
multitude of their masts and spars, the appearance of a leafless forest. The
whole of the lower part of the city, excepting the Battery, on both North and
East Rivers, is burdened with numerous docks and ships, in all extending
several miles. Usually these docks are crowded with the vessels of all na
tions; and, on an average, over 2,000 coasting vessels are in harbor at a
Forests of Masts, East River, Neiv York.
time, some loading, some unloading, and others waiting their turn for berths.
With all these vast accommodations for shipping, there is scanty room for
so large a commerce as centers at this port.
New York, or Manhattan Island, rises from each river with a gentle as
cent, thus forming a central ridge nearly its entire length. The city is com
pactly built, from the Battery to Forty-second-street, four miles. In the lower
part of the city the streets are laid out to suit the shape of the island, and,
though not uniform, the general divisions are regular, arid the main streets
broad. At Houston -street, one and three-fourth miles from the Battery, com
mences the uniform plan of avenues and streets. Above this point the en
tire island is divided, longitudinally, by fourteen parallel avenues, 100 feet
wide, which are crossed at right angles by one hundred and fifty-six streets.
394 NEW YORK.
sixteen of which are 100 and the remainder 80 feet wide; and these, all above
Thirteenth-street, extend entirely across the island, from river to river.
The upper portion of the city is generally composed of residences, while
the lower or southern part accommodates the great bulk of commerce and
general trade. The principal business portion lies south of Chambers-street.
Broadway extends for two and a half miles in a straight line, commencing
at the Battery and running north. The turn in Broadway is just below
Union-Square, at Tenth-street, where it bends slightly to the westward, cross
ing, in its additional course of miles, the principal avenues in the western
part of the city.
Broadway is 80 feet wide, and occupies in its straight part the natural
crown of the island between the two rivers. It is the great promenade of the
city, and one of the grandest streets in the world, elegantly built with costly
edifices, stores, hotels, churches, etc.
4'The great characteristic of New York is din and excitement; everything
is done in a hurry, all is intense anxiety. It is especially noticeable in the
leading thoroughfare, Broadway, where the noise and confusion caused by
the incessant passing and re-passing of some eighteen thousand vehicles a
day, with multitudes upon multitudes of people upon its side-walks, render
it a Babel-scene of confusion."
To obtain a general idea of some of the more prominent objects of the city,
we commence at the southernmost point, the beginning of Broadway — the
Battery. This public ground has eleven acres, and is planted with shade
trees. At-the southern termination of the island it has an extended view of
the magnificent bay of New York, with its fleets of vessels and crafts of all
sorts. Here stands Castle Garden, originally a fortification, then a place
of public meetings, with a room capable of holding an audience of fifteen
thousand persons, and now as a point of debarkation of the thousands upon
thousands of emigrants who annually here for the first time press their feet
upon a land of freedom. At the beginning of Broadway, close by the Bat
tery, is the little circular square known as the Bowling Green, now graced
by a fountain, but in ante-revolutionary times the site of a leaden equestrian
statue of George III, which the populace destroyed and converted into musket
balls to be fired into his majesty's soldiers.
Passing up Broadway two blocks from Bowling Green, we have on the
right, running down to East River, a short, narrow street — Wall-street, the
great money center of the Union and rendezvous of merchants. At its head,
on Broadway, stands Trinity Church, the most important Episcopal church
in the city, built at an expense of $400,000, with a singularly beautiful spire,
rising to the hight of 264 feet, and commanding from its summit a view of
the city, bay, rivers, islands, and surrounding shores — a magnificent panorama
of life and beauty. From this elevation Broadway is seen stretching away
for miles, with its moving crowds of human beings and vehicles dwarfed to
the eye, by hight and distance, to puppets in size. In the adjoining church
yard are the monuments of many illustrious men, among them those of
Alexander Hamilton, and the naval hero, Lawrence.
On Wall-street, corner of Nassau-street, stands the Custom House, mod
eled after the Parthenon, and built of white marble, at an expense of nearly
$2,000,000. It is on the site of the Federal Hall, where congress held its
sessions when New York was the national capital. Here, on the 13th of
April, 1789, the assembled thousands exclaimed "Long live George Wash
ington," on the occasion of his inauguration on this spot as the first president
NEW YORK.
395
of the United States. Adjoining this is the U. S. Assay Office, a handsome
marble building.
Near this building, on Nassau-street, is the city Postoffice, formerly the
Middle Dutch Church, used for military purposes by the British in the revo
lution.
Below the Custom House, on Wall-street, is the Merchants' Exchange, a
massive granite edifice, occupying an entire block, of the Grecian Doric or
der. It is 200 feet long, 77 feet high, to the cornice, and cost $1,800,000.
The exchange-room, where the merchants daily meet during the hours of
'Change, is a magnificent hall, capable of holding 3,000 persons.
Proceeding up Broadway, we come, after passing seven blocks more, to the
Park, a triangular structure of eleven acres, and the best known locality in
all New York. Upon this, at its upper end, are several public buildings, the
most important of which is the City Hall, an imposing marble structure.
The building was finished in 1812; its rear is of free-stone, and so built be
cause at the time it was supposed the city would never extend north of it —
now it in fact reaches four miles above it.
At the south end of the Park is the Astor House, Barnum's Museum and
St. Paul's Church. In the graveyard attached to the church are monuments
to the memory of Emmet, the Irish patriot, and to Gen. Montgomery, who
fell at Quebec, and also a native of Ireland.
View Looking down Broadway from the Park.
On the right is seen the Astor House and St. Paul's Episcopal Church ; on the left, Park Place and
Barnum's Museum. In front, cars of street railroads, with figures in the foreground of the little street
shoe-blacks at work polishing the leather of passers-by. This is the most thronged point in the city. In
the business hours of the day, policemen, in their blue uniforms, stand here to preserve order, and to con
duct ladies and children in safety across the crowded street.
Printing-House Square is the open space facing the eastern side of the
Park, opposite the City Hall. Upon this square directly front the offices
of the New York Tribune, the New York Times — on the site of the old
396
NEW YORK.
Brick Church — the Sunday Times, etc. The great American Tract House
Printing Establishment is also on one of the corners of the square, while
Printing-Hovse Square, New York.
The view is taken in Chatham-street, looking southward. Tammany Hall and various newspaper pub
lication offices are seen in front, among others the printing office of the American Tract Society. The
spire of St. Paul's and the flag-staff on Barnum's Museum are shown on the right in the distance, and in
front some cars of street railroads.
within sight are the offices of the Herald, the Sun. the New York Express,
the Daily News, the New York Mercury, the New York Ledger, and numer
ous others. No other locality
in the world is so closely iden
tified with the art of printing.
Within five minutes walk of this
spot, toward East River, on
Franklin Square, is the cele
brated publishing-house of the
Brothers Harper. Their estab
lishment is on a gigantic scale.
It occupies an edifice five stories
in hight. where printing, book
binding, stereotyping, engrav
ing and book-selling are carried
on. They furnish employment
to three 'hundred people, and
sell two millions of volumes an
nually. The Messrs. Appleton,
corner of Broadway and Leonard
streets, conduct the bookselling
and publishing business on a
similarly extensive scale.
On Broadway, just above the Park, is Stewart's Marble Palace, the most
extensive and fashionable "shopping place" for ladies in the world. In all
its departments, it employs 350 clerks, and annually sells dry-goods to the
HARPEB'S.
NEW YORK.
397
amount of several millions. Bowen, McNamie & Co.'s marble store, also de
voted to dry-goods, is on the corner of Pearl-street and Broadway, and is a
most costly and elegant edifice. This firm has made itself widely known by
their immortal reply to a threat of a withdrawal of trade for their political
opinions — "Our goods are for sale, not our principles."
Ball, Black & Co., and Tiffany & Co., are elegant establishments, on Broad
way, devoted to jewelry and silverware. The latter, it is said, retail to the
amount of $1,000,000 annually.
Between Duane and Worth streets is the New York Hospital, a most im
portant benevolent institution, of which there are many in the city, though
this is probably the oldest, having been founded anterior to the revolution.
Opposite this, on the east side of Broadway, is the much admired Broad
way Theater, one of
the largest in the city.
A short distance be
hind and east of this,
in Center-street, is the
Hull of Justice, in
common language, the
"Tombs," from its
gloomy aspect. It con
tains the police and
other courts, one hun
dred and fifty cells for
prisoners, and, in the
court-yard, a place of
execution for murder
ers. It is judiciously
located, for near by, a
little to the east, is the
THE TOMBS, OR HALL or JUSTICE. infamous Five Points,
so named because five
streets here meet and corner. The Five Points is the nucleus around which
cluster thousands of the most abandoned and wretched of the population of
the city — the thieves,
prostitutes, and noto
riously profligate and
intemperate. This vile
population are mostly
of the lowest class of
foreigners, the off-
scouring of the poor
est districts and most
degraded and tyran
nically governed cities
of the Old World.
The ward in which
this is situated, in
common parlance, has
been Ions known as
the "Bloody Sixth/' Cow BAT' FlVE r°INT8' NEW YoR
a title acquired from its election riots. The House of Industry and New
Mission House are two fine buildings, erected, of late years, in this scene of
398
NEW YORK.
vice and poverty for the noble uses of philanthropy to its suffering popu
lation.
Taylor's Saloon, an elegant restaurant, is on the corner of Franklin-street
and Broadway, on the first floor; it contains an area of 7,500 feet. The view
from the two grand entrances is gorgeous; the floor is laid with beautiful
marble tiles, and fountains and statuary appear to the view.
Returning to Broadway, and continuing up the same, we pass in succession
several magnificent hotels. Among these, the St. Nicholas and the Metro
politan are the most extensive. The St. Nicholas, at the corner of Spring-
street, covers one and three-fourths of an acre of ground, has six. hundred
rooms, and was erected and furnished at an expense of more than a million
of dollars. It is a monument of architectural beauty, of the Corinthian or
der, and is of white marble. The original disbursements for mirrors amounted
to $40,000, and the service of silverware and Sheffield plate cost $50,000.
Whatever ornament wealth could purchase or skill produce has been lavished
upon this palace-like structure, in which one thousand guests may enjoy all
of the comforts and luxuries of life.
Continuing up Broadway a few blocks further, we come in view of Wash-
Cooper Institute, New York.
ington Square and Parade Ground. It is west of Broadway some three
minutes walk. It contains twelve acres, has a handsome fountain, and is sur
rounded by elegant private houses.
The New York University fronts this square. It is a very handsome
building, of marble; it was founded in 1831, and has, in all its departments,
about seven hundred students.
NEW YORK.
399
Running up northward from Washington Square is the famous Fifth Ave
nue, the most fashionable street in the city, and the most elegant street of
private dwellings on the globe.
The several broad avenues and squares in the upper part of the city are
studded with a succession of splendid mansions, in some instances costing
from $50,000 to $200,000 each. The expenditures of families occupying
them are apt to be in a corresponding scale, sometimes amounting to tens
of thousands annually.
Returning to Broadway, and crossing over into Astor Place, we come to
the Cooper Institute, erected by Mr. Peter Cooper, of New York, who gave
$300,000 for the founding of this institution. Its object is the moral, mental
and physical improvement of youth. It contains, among other provisions, a
spacious lecture-room and an observatory. In connection with it are free
courses of lectures, a free library, rooms for debating and other societies.
Opposite the institution is the New Bible House, one of the most exten
sive buildings in the city. It contains the printing-rooms and other offices
of the American Bible Society, and also apartments for various benevolent
and religious associations. Nearly six hundred persons are employed in the
Bible House when in full operation. The Society was organized in 1816-17 ;
its receipts since then amount to more than five millions of dollars, and it has
distributed about nine millions of Bibles and Testaments, many of them in
foreign languages.
The Bible House occupies three-fourths of an acre of ground, bounded by
Third and Fourth Avenues, and Eighth and Ninth streets. The form of this
gigantic edifice is nearly triangular, and it is substantially built of brick, with
stone facings, costing nearly $300,000. The principal entrance, which is on
the Fourth Avenue, has four columns, surmounted with cornice.
At the angle of Broadway corner of Tenth-street is the splendid edifice of
The Bible House.
Grace Church ; it is of white marble, of Gothic architecture, and is consid
ered one of the most elegant buildings in New York.
400
NEW YORK.
Four blocks beyond here is Union Square. This park is a beautiful oval
inclosure, containing, perhaps, a couple of acres, and ornamented by shrub-
Statue of Washington and the Everett House, New York.
bery and a pretty fountain. The famous equestrian statue of Washington
stands at the south-east corner of the square. It is 14^ feet high, and, with
its pedestal, reaches an elevation of 29 feet. It engaged the artist, Mr. Brown,
four years, and cost $30,000, which was contributed by forty-six wealthy,
public-spirited citizens. The Everett House, a magnificent hotel, shown in
the engraving, stands on this square ; it combines the luxuries of a first class
hotel with the quiet and seclusion of a private house. Being in the most
fashionable and airy quarter of the city, it is in all respects attractive as a
place of residence to those who wish to combine elegance and seclusion with
abundant means of transit by cars and stages to every part of the city. Dr.
Cheever's Church of the Puritans and Rev. Mr. Abbott's Spingler Institution
for Ladies face this square.
The New York Academy of Music, or Italian Opera-House, is a few steps
eastward of Union Park, corner of Fourteenth-street and Irving Place. It
is an immense structure, 204 by 120 feet, and is capable of accommodating
4,600 persons. The interior decorations are remarkably fine — sculpture,
painting, and architecture all working together to produce Ihe most pleasing
effect. Its cost was about $350,000.
On the continuation of Broadway, about half a mile above Union Park, is
the Fifth Avenue Hotel. It faces Madison Square, a beautiful park of one
hundred acres, which has become widely known from a casual allusion m
the opening of Pierce Butler's celebrated poem of "Nothing to Wear," as the
residence of Miss Flora McFlimsay, who had made three separate journeys
to Paris, where she and her friend Mrs. Harris.
NEW YORK.
401
"Spent six consecutive weeks without stopping,
In one continuous round of shopping ;
Shopping alone and shopping together,
At all hours of the day, and in all sorts of weather,
For all manner of things that a woman can put
On the crown of her head or sole of her foot,
Or wrap round her shoulders, or fit round her waist,
Or that can be sewed on, or pinned on, or laced,
Or tied on with a string, or stitched on with a bow,
In front or behind, above or below."
The Fifth Avenue Hotel covers an acre of ground. It is faced with white
marble, stretches 200 feet on Fifth Avenue and Broadway, 215 on Twenty-
third street, and 198 on
Twenty-fourth-street. Ex-
_ elusive of basement, it is six
stories high, and in hight
A 110 feet. It cost, with fur
niture, about a million of
dollars, contains 500 rooms
for guests, and has 125 par
lors, with suits of rooms, and
each has a water-closet and
bath attached. Its location
is very near the depots of
the Eastern and Northern
railroads. One novel fea
ture of this hotel is a ver
tical railway moved by steam
power, which ascends from
the lowest to the highest
story, and by which persons can be carried from floor to floor. Near the
hotel, in front of the square, is a stately monument to the memory of Gen.
Worth, and adjoining the park are some of the most elegant houses in the city.
All the public grounds in the city sink into insignificance in point of ex
tent when compared with Central Park. This occupies the center of the is
land, and is nearly five miles from the Battery. It commences at Fifty-
ninth-street and extends to One Hundred and Eleventh-street, a distance of
about two and a half miles; its breadth is half a mile, being bounded on the
east by the Fifth Avenue and on the west by the Eighth Avenue, and con
tains 843 acres. It is one of the largest parks in the world, though the Bois
de Boulogne in Paris, and the Phoenix Park in Dublin, are more than
double its size, and the Procter at Vienna is half as large again.
In 1853, the legislature of the state authorized by law the purchase of the
ground for a park ; in 1856 it came into possession of the city; in August of
the year following the work of clearing the ground commenced. In April,
1858, the design of Messrs. Olmsted and Vaux for laying out the park was
accepted, and on the first of June the work was commenced in earnest, em
ploying about 3,000 men. These gentlemen are admirably adapted for the
task, which it is estimated will take five years to complete. Mr. Fred L.
Olmsted, the chief of the park, is the well known author of "Walks and
Talks of an American Farmer in England," who is admirably supported
every way by the consulting architect, Mr. Calvert Yaux, the former partner
of the lamented Downing, who gave such an impulse in our country to land
scape gardening and rural architecture.
FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL.
402 NEW YORK.
"The place already possesses the several essentials of a picturesque park — pond,
stream, hill, rock, plain and slope. The ridge which rises near the Battery, and
forms the back-bone of the Island of Manhattan, traverses the Park from end to
end, forming, in the journey, at least two admirable points of view from which de
licious views of the adjacent scenery may be obtained. Through the valleys be
neath course little streams, which, with the help of thorough drainage, may be con
verted into large streams. There is a swamp, or deep declivity, which, under dis
creet engineering, will be converted into a lake, one hundred acres in extent, fed
from the Croton springs. This lake will, in fact, be the receiving reservoir for the
city. There are hills, too, with rough, rocky sides, which will pass, with a little
trimming, for mountain scenery; and there are passes, which, with appropri
ate foliage, may well figure as Alpine valleys. Nature has done -so much that
there is little left for the engineer but to beautify and trim its excrescences. The
Park contains, beside the large structure formerly used as an arsenal, and the
Croton lake and distributing reservoir, a parade ground of fifty acres in extent, on
which infantry, cavalry and artillery can maneuver together. A short distance
south of the parade ground will be found the Botanical Gardens. From botanical
surveys already made, it appears that the ground is adapted to the cultivation of
an unusual variety of plants and flowers. The estimated cost of laying it out ac
cording to the plans adopted by the commissioners is $1,500,000."
The Ramble is already completed — a series of garden sketches, shrub
beries, lawns, and streams, grouped with native and foreign trees and plants,
including some of the commonest and most lovely that grow in our fields
and along our waters. Vines trail and climb and wave about the rocks;
flowers bloom along the edges of turf and on the margin of a little grassy
brook. You walk upon paths perfectly laid, and smoothly rolled ; groups
of workmen are shaving the lawn ; here is a rustic, substantial summer-
house — yonder, a glimpse of a bridge exquisitely elaborated; at your side,
the huge leaves of some languid tropical plant unfold, and yonder are the
nodding spears of the golden rod. Every moment there is a pleasant sur
prise in the sweet succession of beauty. Whatever spot your eye falls upon
is the spot that seems to have been especially elaborated.
This is upon the higher central ground of the Park; and immediately be
yond its limits the active work is going on. There are bodies of laborers
drilling rock, laying the stone foundations of roads; others are building
arches, ditching, digging, planting, carting, leveling, all over the wild, waste
spaces; and in the midst of them this stately avenue, already finished, nearly
as wide as Broadway, and firm to the tread as a sea-beach, flanked by double
rows of trees.
The Park is already, in its unfinished state, a great resort for strangers and
townsfolk. Thousands of people swarm through the grounds, yet, everything
is rigidly respected. The throng of visitors remember that the Park is the
common property of all, and that no individual can justly appropriate a sin
gle flower, or trample, for his private gratification, upon any lawn or margin
of grass.
The large pond in the Park is a great winter resort for skating. Fresh
water from the Croton reservoir is let on at pleasure, so that, whenever the
weather justifies, this amusement is open to the public.
On Christmas Day, 1859 — the first Christmas on which it was open to
this sport — it was estimated that fifty thousand persons visited the Park,
that eight thousand were skating upon the pond at one time, and as many
more looking on. Fearful that the ice would give way under the growing
warmth of the day and the weight of the assembled multitude, at noon 40
NEW YORK.
403
policemen tried to drive them off — useless effort, 40 against 8,000, and those
8,000 on skates, too!
Broadway from Dr. Chapins Church.
The view is looking down Broadway from in front of Dr. Chapin's Church. It shows the east side of the
street from that point, the front of the St. Nicholas Hotel appearing in the middle distance on the right.
"The Croton Aqueduct, by which New York is supplied with pure water, is one
of the most gigantic enterprises of the kind undertaken in any country. The dis
tance which the water travels through this artificial channel, exclusive of the grand
reservoir, is about forty miles. The dam crosses the Croton River six miles from
its mouth, and the whole distance from this dam, thirty-two miles, is one unbroken
under-ground canal, formed of stone and brick. The great receiving reservoir 5s
on York Hill, five miles from the City Hall: it can receive a depth of water to the
extent of twenty feet, and is capable of containing 150.000,000 gallons. Two miles
further on is the distributing reservoir, at Murray 'Hill. This reservoir is of solid
26
404 NEW YORK.
masonry, built in the Egyptian style of architecture, with massive buttresses, hol
low granite walls, etc. On the top of the walls is an inclosed promenade. It is
three miles from the City Hall. The cost of this immense undertaking was over
thirteen millions of dollars.
The New Reservoir is located at York Hill, in the Central Park, between
Eighty-fifth and Ninety-seventh streets.
At the distance of about eight miles from the City Hall is the High Bridge, the
most important structure connected with the Croton Aqueduct. It is thrown across
the Harlem valley and river. It spans the whole width of the valley and river at a
point where the latter is 620 feet wide, and the former a quarter of a mile. Eight
arches, each with a span of 80 feet, compose this structure, and the elevation of the
arches gives 100 feet clear of the river from their lower side. Beside these, there
are several other arches rising from the ground, the span of which is somewhat
more than half that of the first mentioned. The material employed throughout
the whole of this imposing object is granite. The works cost $900,000. The water
is led over this bridge, which is 1,450 feet in extent, in iron pipes; and over all is
a pathway, which, though wide enough for carriages, is available to pedestrians
only."*
The ship-building-yards and dry-docks of the city are on a large scale.
The Naval Dry-Dock is a perfect model of engineering skill, and is said to be
the largest in the world. It was ten years in building, and cost over two
millions of dollars.
The following are prominent among the literary and scientific institutions
of the city : The Astor Library, on Lafayette Place, near Astor Place, is re
garded as the library collection of the continent. It was founded by John
Jacob Astor, who endowed it with the sum of $400,000. It already contains
nearly 100;000 volumes. The Free Academy is on Twenty-third street, near
the corner of Lexington Avenue, and was established for such pupils of the
common schools as wished to avail themselves of a higher education. The full
course of study embraces five years, and there are accommodations for 1,000
pupils. The Mercantile Library Association occupies the Clinton Hall build
ing, in Astor Place, on Eighth-street. It has 4,000 members, and 50,000
volumes in its libraries. The New York Society Library, founded more than
a century since (1754), is in University Place, and has 38,000 volumes. The
New York Historical Society has rooms in the N. Y. University. It is more
than half a century old, and has 35,000 volumes in its library. The Lyceum
of Natural History, the Mechanics' Institute, the American Institute, and
the American Geographical and Statistical Society, are all important institu
tions. Columbia College, a time-honored institution, originally called King's
College, and chartered in 1754, is now removed to Forty-ninth-street, near
Fifth Avenue. In the city are important medical, theological and law insti
tutions. Every branch of human knowledge here has the ablest of teachers
and the best of facilities.
Long Island is the largest island belonging to the United States on the
Atlantic coast. " From Fort Hamilton at the west end, to Montauk Point,
at the east extremity, the length is about 140 miles. The average width is
only 10 miles; although the most important portion of the island, lying west
of Peconic Bay, is from 12 to 20 miles wide. It contains about 1,500 square
miles. It is separated from the continent, on the north, by Long Island
Sound, lying between the island, through its whole length, and the coast of
* This description is from Miller's "New York as It Is, or Strangers' Guide Book," pub
lished by James Miller, No. 436 Broadway, N. Y.
NEW YORK. 4Q5
Connecticut, and varying from 2 to 20 miles in width. A rocky ridge, or
chain of hills, extends from the west end to near Oyster Point, in the east
part, the highest elevation of which is in North Hempstead, 319 feet above
the level of the tide. On the north side of this ridge, the land is rough and
hilly; on the south side, level and sandy. Much of the central portion of
the island is covered with wood, consisting of an extensive pine forest, in
which the deer still roams at large. The whole island is underlaid with
granitic rock, which rises high in the ridge, or Spine, as it is denominated,
and breaks out at Hurl Gate, and other places on the East River. The
shores are much indented with bays and inlets. Toward the east side, the
island divides into two parts; the S. of which is a promontory, over 30 miles
in length, and not generally more than a mile wide, terminating in Montauk
Point.
Upon the S.W. shore of the island, is Rockaway Beach, which extends
for about 22 miles, and is much resorted to by the citizens of New York and
Brooklyn for sea bathing, and the sea breezes, so refreshing there in the hot
season. From its vicinity to New York, there are many pleasant places of
resort upon Long Island, which are much frequented, and many which are
occupied for rural residence. Fort Hamilton, at the Narrows, Gravesend
Bay and Coney Island are favorite bathing places. The island has many
pleasant villages, especially in the vicinity of New York, but no city except
ing that described below.
BROOKLYN is on the western end of Long Island, separated by the East
River from the south part of New York city, and communicable with it, by
numerous steam ferries, in four or five minutes of time. Its close vicinity
to New York destroys its distinctive importance, though in population —
Williamsburg being now incorporated with it — it is the third city in the
Union, New York and Philadelphia only exceeding it. The ground on which
it is built is much more elevated than that of New York, especially toward
its southern extremity, where the " Brooklyn Hights," memorable in Revo
lutionary history, present a bold front to the sea, rising abruptly to an ele
vation of seventy feet above tide water, affording a panoramic view of the
city and harbor of New York, of unequaled beauty and magnificence. Pop
ulation, in 1810,4,402; in 1830, 15,396; in 1840, 36,233; in 1850, 96,838;
now about 300,000.
The first settlement of Brooklyn was made, in 1625, by George Jansen
Rapelje, at Wallabout Bay. In 1667, Gov. Nicholls granted a patent " to
certain inhabitants of the town of Breuckelen" which signifies " broken
land." With Brooklyn and its neighborhood is connected the memory of the
unfortunate and bloody battle of Long Island, in which the Americans were
defeated, occasioning the withdrawal of the army from Long Island to New
York. In 1816, Brooklyn was incorporated as a village, and in 1834, as a
city.
The city is generally laid out with order and symmetry, and the streets
mostly cross each other at right angles: some of them are of great width,
and many are adorned with beautiful shade trees, which, in the summer sea
son, impart to them an air of comfort. Brooklyn is remarkably well built,
the dwellings generally elegant in design, and some of them splendid speci
mens of architectural beauty.
The city has many fine public buildings : conspicuous among them are the
406 NEW YORK.
City Hall, Athenaeum, Lyceum, Academy of Music, Savings Bank, French
Academy, Orphan Asylum, Church of the Trinity, Church of the Pilgrims,
and other churches, of which there are 136 in all. Washington Park, on
the site of Fort Greene, is an elegant public ground, planted with trees, and,
being on an elevated site, commands an exceedingly attractive view of the
surrounding country. The water works of Brooklyn supply the inhabitants
with abundance of pure water. It is obtained from Rockville reservoir and
others adjacent to Hempstead, and thence conducted by an open canal to
Jamaica reservoir, through a conduit to Ridgewood reservoir, where it is
forced up to the elevation desired for use.
Navy Yard, Brooklyn.
" The United States Navy Yard, at Brooklyn, is situated on the south side
of Wallabout Bay, which makes up with a broad curve from the East River,
at the north-eastern part of the city. From this point a ferry runs directly
across to the foot of Walnut-street, New York. About 40 acres of ground
are included in these premises. There are two large ship houses for the pro
tection of naval vessels of the largest class when building, together with ex
tensive workshops, and every requisite for a great naval depot. There is
connected with this establishment an important literary institution, called
the United States Naval Lyceum, formed in 1833 by officers of the service
connected with the port. It contains a mineralogical and geological cabinet,
and a fine collection of curiosities of a miscellaneous character. The gov
ernment has constructed a dry dock here similar to that in the United States
Navy Yard at Charles town, Mass. On the opposite side of the Wallabout,
about half a mile east of the navy yard, is the Marine Hospital, situated
upon a commanding elevation, and surrounded by about 30 acres of land un
der high cultivation. In this bay are always one or more large naval vessels
lying in ordinary. These mark the spot where lay the Jersey and other
British ships, during the revolutionary war, made use of as prison ships, for
the confinement of those American soldiers whom they had taken prisoners
in battle, in which it is said that as many as 11,500 prisoners perished in the
course of the war, from bad air, close confinement, and ill treatment. These
unhappy men were buried upon the shore, with little care but to put their
bodies out of sight. In 1808, the bones of these sufferers were collected, a,s
far as could then be done, and placed in 13 coffins, corresponding with the
old 13 states, and honorably interred in a commemorative tomb erected for
the purpose, not far from the navy yard.
NEW YORK. 407
In the year 1836, Jeremiah Johnson, Esq., a gentleman who had filled
many public offices in Brooklyn, communicated the following to the Naval
Magazine, relating to the treatment of the American prisoners on board of
these vessels. His statement was derived, in a great measure, from personal
knowledge:
A large transport, named the Whitby, was the first prison ship anchored in the Walla-
bout. She was moored near " Remsen's Mill," about the 20th of October, 1776, and was
crowded with prisoners. Many landsmen were prisoners on board this vessel ; she was
said to be the most sickly of alt the prison ships. Bad provisions, bad water, and scanted
rations were dealt to tbe prisoners. No medical men attended the sick. Disease reigned
unrelieved, and hundreds died from pestilence, or were starved, on board this floating
prison. I saw the sand beach between a ravine in the hill and Mr. Remsen's dock become
filled with graves in the course of two months; and before the 1st of May, 1777, the ra
vine alluded to was itself occupied in the same way. In the month of May of that year
two large ships were anchored in the Wallabout, when the prisoners were transferred from
the Whitby to them. These vessels were also very sickly, from the causes before stated.
Although many prisoners were sent on board of them, and were exchanged, death made
room for all. On a Sunday afternoon, about the middle of October, 1777, one of the
prison ships was burnt; the prisoners, except a few, who, it is said, were burnt in the ves
sel, were removed to the remaining ship. It was reported at the time that the prisoners
had fired their prison; which, if true, proves that they preferred death, even by fire, to the
lingering sufferings of pestilence and starvation. In February, 1778, the remaining prison
ship was burnt at night; when the prisoners were removed from her to the ships then win
tering in the Wallabout.
In the month of April, 1778, the Old Jersey was moored in the Wallabout, and all the
prisoners (except the sick) were transferred to her. The sick were carried to two hospital
ships, named the Hope and Falrnouth, anchored near each other about two hundred yards
east from the Jersey. These ships remained in the Wallabout until New York was evacu
ated by the British. The Jersey was the receiving ship — the others, truly, the ships of
Death! It has been generally thought that all the prisoners died on board the Jersey.
This is not true; many may have died on board of her Avho were not reported as sick; but
all the men who were placed on the sick-list were removed to the hospital ships, from which
they were usually taken, sewed up in a blanket, to their long home.
After the hospital s-hips were brought into the Wallabout, it was reported that the sick
were attended by physicians; few, very few, however, recovered. It was no uncommon
thing to see five or six dead bodies brought on shore in a single morning; when a small
excavation would be made at the foot of the hill, the bodies be cast in, and a man with a
shovel would cover them by shoveling sand down the hill upon them. Many were buried
in a ravine on the hill; some on the farm. The whole shore from Rennie's Point to Mr.
Remsen's dock- yard was a place of graves; as were also the slope of the hill near the
house, the shore from Mr. Remsen's barn along the mill-pond to Rapelje's farm and the
sandy island, between the flood gates and the mill-dam; while a few were buried on the
shore, the east side of the Wallabout. Thus did Death reign here, from 1776 until the
peace. The whole Wallabout was a sickly place during the war. The atmosphere seemed
to be charged with foul air from the priso •• ships, and with the effluvia of the dead bodies
washed out of their graves by the tides. We have ourselves examined many of the skulls
lying on the shore; from the teeth, they appear to be the remains of men in the prime of
life.
The harbor of Brooklyn is extensive, and is capable of being very largely
improved by adding to the number of its docks and slips. Vessels of the
largest size can come up to its piers, to discharge or receive their cargoes.
The Atlantic Dock is a very extensive basin for the reception of shipping,
about a mile below the South Ferry, constructed by a company incorporated
in 1840, at a cost of about $1,000,000. The basin within the piers covers
421- acres, with sufficient depth of water for the largest ships. The outside
pier extends 3,000 feet on Buttermilk Channel. The piers are furnished
with spacious stone warehouses. The terminus of the Long Island Railroad
is located near the landing from the South Ferry, which connects with New
York at the S.E. corner of the Battery. From the station, the road is car
ried, by a long tunnel, under a number of the most important of the streets
of Brooklyn, which it has to cross in its route.
408
NEW YORK.
Greenwood Cemetery, at Gowanus, in the S. part of Brooklyn, about three
miles from Fulton Ferry, is an extensive and beautiful ground provided by
the cities of New York and Brooklyn, for the burial of their dead. Green
wood contains 330 acres of ground, one half or more of which is covered
with wood of the natural forest. The grounds have a varied surface of hill,
and valley, and plain. From some of the open elevations extensive views
are obtained of the ocean, and of the cities of Brooklyn and New York.
The whole cemetery is traversed by about 15 miles of winding avenues and
paths, leading through each shaded recess, and to every spot at once hal
lowed and adorned by the memorials of the dead. Great improvements are
continually going on, and every year adds new beauty to this interesting
place."
In the cemetery are many beautiful monuments : among these are the
Pilot's and Fireman's, the for
mer on an elevation overlook
ing the bay and harbor of New
York. One of the most noted
is a marble structure of ex
quisite beauty to the memory
of Miss Canda, a young lady
who met an instant death by a
fall, in some unknown way,
from a cab, on the paving
stones of New York. She was
at the time alone and unat
tended on her way home from
a party, and was not missed by
the driver until his arrival at
her father's house. Her corpse
was subsequently found in the
streets, attired in the costly
garments she had worn on the
festive occasion. An only
child, the monument was erect
ed by her father, at an expense,
it is said, of nearly his entire
fortune. Another monument
amuses by its eccentricity. It
was erected by a sailor, a mas
ter of a vessel, while living, to his own memory. It is surmounted by a
statue of himself, in seaman's attire, with a tarpaulin hat and southwester
coat. The figure is that of a hardy, bold featured tar, and is represented
with quadrant in hand in the act of taking an astronomical observation.
Miss CANDA'S MONUMENT, GREENWOOD CEMETERY.
ALBANY, the capital of New York, is situated on the west bank of Hudson
River, 145 miles from the city of New York, 170 from Boston, 296 from
Buffalo, 247 from Montreal, and 376 from Washington City. Lat., 42° 39'
N.; Long., 73° 44' 49" W. On the margin of the river is a flat, alluvial
tract, from fifteen to one hundred yards wide, back of which the ground rises
abruptly and in the course of a mile attains to the hight of 220 feet, after
which it becomes level. Originally the streets were not very regularly laid
NEW YORK.
409
out, and some of them are narrow. State-street, the principal street in early
times, running west from the river, has a steep ascent, at the head of which
is the capitol, in the front of which is the public-square, formed by the cap-
itol parks, which are ornamented with walks, trees and shrubbery; eastward,
facing the square, are the state and city halls, the latter being a splendid
marble edifice. The other public buildings of note are a medical college, a
female academy, the exchange, between sixty and seventy churches, some of
which are beautiful structures.
Albany from the east bank of the Hudson.
The view shows the appearance of the central part of Albany as seen from the depot of the Boston and
Western Railroad, on the Greenbush side of the Hudson. The cars of the New York Central Railroad,
near the Canal Basin, are seen on the right. The domes and spires of some of the most prominent public
buildings appear in the central part.
Albany is distinguished for her educational and literary institutions. The
University of Albany, intended to be of a higher order than other similar in
stitutions, and national in its character, was incorporated in 1852. A splendid
observatory, called the Dudley Observatory, is connected with the University.
The position of Albany necessarily makes it a great thoroughfare. It is
the terminus of the Erie and Champlain canals and of several important rail
road lines, and as a commercial mart is one of the highest grades. It is, in
fact, the eastern entrepot of the commerce of the northern section of the Mis
sissippi Valley and of the great lakes with the seaboard. Two thirds of the
emigration westward passes through this city. Its manufactures are various
and extensive, including hardware, machinery, railroad cars, carriages, stoves,
etc., and its breweries are the most extensive in the Union. The local trade
410 NEW YORK.
of the city is active, and many of the stores equal those of New York in the
splendor and variety of merchandise. Population about 65,000.
Albany is the oldest city — being incorporated such, under Gov. Dongan, in
1086 — and next to Jamestown the earliest settlement within the original
thirteen United States. Its Indian name was Scagh~negh-ta-da, signifying
"the end of the pine woods." The Dutch named Albany "fteavenvyck (i. e.,
Beavertown), and afterward Willemstadt. It was the fort only that was called
Fort Orange. It received its present name in 1664, in honor of the Duke of
York and Albany, afterward James II of England.
Albany was probably never visited by a white man until September, 1610,
when Henclricke Chrystance, who was sent up the river by Henry Hudson
to explore the country, came here; and, as far as can be ascertained by tra
dition and documentary evidence, he landed somewhere in the present North
Market-street. In one or two years afterward a party of the Dutch built a
block-house on the north point of Boyd's Ishmd, a short distance below Al
bany ferry, which, on account of freshets, was soon abandoned, and a more
eligible spot somewhere in South Market-street selected.
Until the year 1625, the Dutch did not contemplate any permanent settle
ments. They merely visited the country in the autumn and winter with a
view to the fur trade with the Indians, returning in the spring to Holland.
But in that year the Dutch West India Company adopted the plan of colo
nizing their newly discovered territories, and accordingly offered large appro
priations of lands to those who would settle on them. This brought many
over, and from that period until 1635 several highly respectable Dutch fam
ilies arrived, among whom were the ancestors of the Van Schelluyne, Quack-
enboss, Lansing. Bleeker,Van Ness, Pruyn, Van Woert, Wendell, Van Eps
and Van Renssellaer families.
It does not appear that any stone or brick building was built hero (the
fort excepted) until the year 1647, when a stone building was erected near
the fort; and it is stated that on the occasion of celebrating its completion
"that eight ankers (128 gallons) of brandy were consumed." Ministers of
the Reformed religion were regularly sent out from Holland to the colony.
In 1657, the Rev. Gideon Schaats sailed from Amsterdam for the colony, and
about the same time the Dutch West India Company wrote a letter stating
that they would send a bell and pulpit "for the inhabitants of Fort Orange
and the village of Beaverwick for their newly constructed little church."
"The Dutch rule was rigid and arbitrary. It was in the hands of throe or more
"commissaries," appointed by the governor and council, who usually held their
offices for one year. Without the permission of the commissaries, no one was al
lowed to build houses, buy or sell, or to establish manufactories, stores, shops, tav
erns or beer-houses. In 1647, Jan La Battie applied for permission 'to build a
brewery,' which was granted on his paying yearly six beavers, a duty of perhaps
about eighty dollars. The duties were generally farmed out, or sold at auction;
and during this year and several years afterward the duties on beer in Beaverwyck
exceeded eight hundred dollars. The fines imposed for the violation of ordinances
were generally distributed in the sentence in this way: 'One third to the church,
one third to the public, and one third to the attorney-general.'
Professor Kalm, who visited Albany in 1749, has left us some facts All the
people then understood Dutch. All the houses stood gable end to the street; the
ends were of brick, and the side walls of planks or logs. The gutters on the roofs
went out almost to the middle of the street, greatly annoying travelers in their dis
charge. At tho stoopes (porches) the people spent much of their time, especially
on the shady side, and in the evenings they were filled with both sexes. The streets
were dirty by reason of the cattle possessing their free use during the summer
NEW YORK.
411
nights. They had no knowledge of stoves, and their chimneys were so wide that
one could drive through them with a cart and horses. Many people still made
wampum to sell to Indians and traders. Dutch manners everywhere prevailed, but
their dress in general was after the English form. They were regarded as close
in traffic, were very frugal in their house economy and diet. Their women were
over-nice in cleanliness, scouring floors and kitchen utensils several times a week,
rising very early and going to sleep very late. Their servants were chiefly ne
groes. Their breakfast was tea, without milk, using sugar by putting a small bit
into the mouth. Their dinner was buttermilk and bread, and if to that they added
sugar it was deemed delicious."
South-east view of the western part of Hudson City.
The view shows the appearance of Hudson as seen from the track of the Hudson Railroad. The Steam
boat Landing and Promenade, Hill appear on the left, Hudson Iron Works in the central part, and the
track of the Boston Railroad on the right.
HUDSON, a city, and county seat of Columbia county, is on the east bank
of Hudson River, at the head of ship navigation, 29 miles south from Al
bany and 116 from New York. It is finely situated on an elevation above
the river, the western part of which is a bold cliff or promontory sixty feet
high. The principal part of the city is built on a street one mile long, ex
tending, in a straight line, from the foot of Prospect Hill to the promenade
on the extremity of the cliff. The promenade at the western extremity, and
fronting the principal street, commands a beautiful view of the river, the vil
lage of Athens opposite, the country beyond, and the lofty Catskill mountains
in the distance.
Hudson is both a commercial and manufacturing place. Formerly it was
extensively engaged in the West India trade, and also in the whale fisheries.
It enjoys superior advantages for manufacturing, as the streams in the vicinity
afford good water power. The city contains a fine court house, a lunatic asy
lum, and several seminaries of learning. Population about 7,000.
''Hudson was founded in 1783, by enterprising men of property from Rhode Is
land and Nantucket, of the names of Jenkins, Paddock, Barnard, Coffin, Thurston,
Greene, Minturn, Lawrence, and others, in all thirty persons. About twenty of
this company, in the early part of 1783, sailed up the Hudson to find some naviga-
412
NEW YORK.
ble situation on which to commence a new settlement. They selected and pur
chased the site on which the city now stands, which at that time was occupied as a
farm, with a single store-house on the bank of the river. In the fall of this year
two families arrived and commenced a settlement. In the spring of 1784, the other
proprietors arrived, bringing with them several vessels; they were soon followed
by other emigrants from the eastward. Between the spring of 1784 and that of
1786, there were 150 dwelling-houses erected, besides wharves, warehouses, shops,
barns, etc., and several works connected with manufactures, and the population
had increased to 1,500 persons. In 1795, Mr. Ashbel Stoddard removed from Con
necticut, established a printing office, and issued a weekly paper, the "Hudson Ga
zette."
Hudson was incorporated a city in 1785. At this period about twenty-five ves
sels were owned in the place, which were mostly employed in the West India
trade; a few were engaged in the whale and seal fishery, which was carried on
with considerable success, and Hudson rapidly increased in wealth and population.
During the revolutionary struggle in France, and the long protracted war in Eu
rope, such was the demand for neutral vessels, and such the high prices of freight,
that the vessels owned here were engaged in the carrying trade. This trade was
not long enjoyed, for British orders in council and French decrees swept many of
them from their owners. Other losses followed by shipwreck, and the embargo,
non-intercourse, and the war which succeeded, almost finished the prosperity of
Hudson. The city was a port of entry till 1815. The immense losses at sea pro
duced much embarrassment and many failures, and kept the place in a state of
depression for a considerable period."
About twelve miles north of the city of Hudson, and five miles east of the
river, is the village of Kinderhook,
noted as the birth-place of Martin
Van Buren, president of the United
States from 1837 to 1841. The en
graving shows the house in which
BIRTH-PLACE OF MARTIN VAN BUREN.
he was born. It was at the time oc
cupied by his father, Abraham Van
Buren, as a tavern. Originally it
had a gable roof, with two attic win
dows in the Dutch style, and the
small building on the riglit stood in
the rear, and was used as a kitchen.
Newburg, the semi-capital of Orange county, is situated on the steep ac
clivity of a hill, rising from the river to the hight of about 300 feet, making
a fine appearance when seen from the river. It was originally settled by the
Palatines, from Germany, about the year 1710. It is 8 miles above West
Point, 84 south from Albany, and 61 from New York. Goshen, the other
half shire town, is about twenty miles distant. Fishkill is on the opposite
bank.
Newburg is a place of considerable trade, and the adjacent country is noted
for its fine dairies. It contains five banks, several seminaries of learning, and
about 12,000 inhabitants. Gen. Washington had his headquarters in this
place during the winter of 1782-3, at which period the celebrated "Newburg
Letters" were written. The old stone house in the south part of the place
(in full view of West Point) where he resided is still in good preservation.
Water works, erected at an expense of $96,000, supply the town with abund
ance of water.
POUGHKEEPSIE, city and capital of Dutchess county, is the largest place
between New York and Albany, and by the river is 73 miles from New York
and 70 from Albany. The central part of the place is nearly a mile back
NEW YORK. 413
from the river, on an elevated plain 200 feet above the water. The Hudson
River Railroad passes through a deep cut a short distance back from the
Hudson.
Poughkeepsie is a thriving place, having a rich back country, and quite a
Western view of Poughkeepsie (central part.)
The view shows the appearance of Poughkeepsio as seen from the opposite elevated hank of the Hudson.
The Steamboat Landing, the situation of the Railroad Depot, and the Collegiate School on a commanding
elevation ono mile back from the Hudson, are seen on the left ; the Iron Foundry on the extreme right.
variety of manufactories. The Poughkeepsie Collegiate building is a fine
structure, modeled after the Parthenon at Athens. There are also four semi
naries for young ladies, the National Law School, the Dutehess Academy,
four or five banks, seventeen churches, and about 15,000 inhabitants.
Poughkeepsie was founded by a number of Dutch families about the year
1700. Its name is said to have been derived from the Indian word Apokeep-
sing, signifying safe harbor. Being situated about half way between New
York and Albany, it occasionally became, in the early periods of its history,
the place of legislative deliberation. The convention which met to deliberate
on the Federal Constitution met in this place in 1788.
Catsldll village, on the west side of the Hudson, was incorporated in 1806.
It is the seat of justice for Greene county, and is principally built in the
deep valley of the Catskill. near its junction with the Hudson. It is 33 miles
from Albany, 6 from Hudson, and 111 from New York. Population about
4,0<50.
The celebrated Catskill Mountain House is about twelve miles from this
place. The hotel is situated on an elevation 2,212 feet above the level of the
Hudson, which gives to the atmosphere a refreshing coolness during the
sultry heat of summer. A little to the west of the Mountain House are two
ponds, the outlets of which unite and proceed, by falls and rapids, in a deep
ravine to the plains below. The first fall is 180 feet perpendicular. By a
circuitous path, the traveler can pass down and go under the rock, where is
presented a singular and interesting sight. For the distance of sixty miles,
on a clear day, the landscape is distinctly visible from the Mountain House,
showing the picturesque Hudson, its moving vessels, cities and villages. The
vision extends from the Hudson Highlands to the Green Mountains.
414
NEW YORK.
Kingston is in Ulster county, on an elevated plain on the west side of the
Hudson, three miles west of the river. This was one of the three earliest
Dutch settlements in New York, having commenced in 1616, New York and
Albany only preceding it. Previous to the revolution, it was one of the most
important places in New York. In October, 1777, the British destroyed the
whole village, leaving but one house standing. The first constitution of New
York was adopted here by the legislature, who held several of their earliest
sessions in the place. The village is thriving, and has about 4,000 inhabi
tants.
WEST POINT, the site of the U. S. Military Academy, is 8 miles south of
Newburg, 94 from Albany, and 51 from New York. It is on the right bank
of the Hudson, opposite Garrison Station, on the Hudson River Railroad,
where the river makes an angle forming the point from which it derives its
name. The natural strength of the^place led to its selection for a fortress
during the revolution, and Fort Putnam, erected at that period, is situated
on an elevation, called Mt. Independence, 568 feet above the water. The
approach from the river on the east is interrupted by a nearly perpendicular,
View from West Point looking tip the Hudson.
From near the Hotel looking northward. Newburg City is seen in the extreme distance in the central
part. The point on which is the graveyard is seen on the left. Cold Spring is at the foot of the bold, pre
cipitate cliffs on the right, although hidden from view.
rocky bank or wall, while on the west and south-west the place is defended
by a rampart of high, precipitous and rugged, mountainous cliffs, towering
upward from 500 to 1,500 feet. The same causes that render West Point so
strong as a military position make it superior, in point of scenery, to almost
any other in the country. Standing on the parade ground and looking north
ward, the pass of the river through the highlands presents a picturesque
scene of unsurpassed magnificence and beauty.
NEW YORK.
415
The Military Academy was established here in 1802. It is situated on a
plain 157 feet above tide-water, and covers an area of about a mile in circuit.
The buildings are 2 stone barracks, one for military exercises in the winter,
275 feet long, an observatory, chapel, hospital, mess hall, 17 separate build
ings for the officers, several work-shops and store-rooms, cavalry stables, a
magazine, laboratory, soldiers' barracks, a store, and about 25 dwellings for
families connected with the establishment.
The Military Academy is wholly supported by the general government.
The education is gratuitous, so far as money is concerned, but each cadet
must give eight years service to the government, unless sooner released. The
corps of cadets can not exceed 250 at any one time, and the candidates for
admission must not be under 14 nor over 21 years of age. The corps spend
three months of each year in encampment. The course of study is full and
thorough in the mathematics and all that pertains to the military art, and
embraces 4 years. The course of study, disci
pline and examination in this institution is con
sidered very severe, and a portion of those only
who commence here are enabled to graduate. The
cadets are appointed one from each congressional
district; beside these are a few others who aro
taken from the country at large.
On the river bank, where the Hudson turns
suddenly to the south, about thirty rods from the
hotel, stands the monument of Kosciusko, erected
in 1829 by the corps of cadets, at an expense of
$5,000. In the vicinity of the monument is a
small plateau, on the side of the precipice leading
to the river, known as "Kosciusko's Garden,'1 to
which the Polish chieftain was accustomed to re
tire for study and reflection.
The monument in
memory of Major ^ T
Dade and his com
mand is situated on the high and precipitous
banks of the Hudson, a little below the edge of
the parade ground, south from the Kosciusko
monument. The following is the inscrip
tion :
Maj. Dade, Fourth Infantry; Capt. Gardiner,
Second Artillery; Capt. Frazer, Second Artil
lery; Lieut. Bassinger, Second Artillery; Lieut.
Mudge, Third Artillery; Lieut. Keais, Third
Artillery; Lieut. Henderson, Second Artillery;
Doctor Catlin, Medical Staff. Dade and his
command. To commemorate the battle of the
28th Dec., 1835, between a detachment of 108
U. S. troops and the Seminole Indians of Flor
ida, in which all the detachment save three fell
without an attempt to retreat. The remains of
the dead repose near St. Augustine, Florida.
Erected by the three Regiments and Medical DADE MONUMENT.
Staff, whose comrades fell on the twenty-
eighth of December, 1835, serving their country and honoring their profession.
KOSCIUSKO'S MONUMENT.
416 NEW YORK.
The following inscription is on a monument erected near the flag staff
and parade ground:
To the memory of Lieut. Colonel E. D. WOOD, of the Corps of Engineers, who fell while
leading a charge at the sortie of Ft. Erie, Upper Canada, 17th September, 1814, in the 31st
year of his age. He was exemplary as a Christian, and distinguished as a soldier. A pupil
of this institution, he died an honor to his country. This memorial was erected by his
friend and commander, Major-General Jacob Brown.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the West Point
graveyard :
To the memory of Ensign DOMIXICK TRANT, of the 9th Massachusetts Regiment, who de
parted this life the 7th day of Nov., 1782, in the 18th year of his age. This youth was a na
tive of Cork, in Ireland, which place he quitted for a thirst of military glory, and an ardent
desire to embrace the American cause. He died equally lamented as he was beloved whilst
living by all who knew him.
The grave of THOMAS GIMBREDK, born in Agen, in France, in 1781 ; died at West Point,
Dec. 24, 1832. For 14 years he was principal Teacher of Drawing in the U. S. Military
Academy, discharging the duties of his station with advantage to the institution and with
honor to himself. His pupils, the U. S. Corps of Cadets, have erected this monument to his
memory, 1833.
Sacred to the memory of Lieut. ALLEN H. NORTON, 4th U. S. Inf'y. Assistant Instructor
Inf'y Tactics at the Military Academy, of which he was a graduate. He was lost in the
wreck of the Atlantic in Long Island, Nov. 27, A. D., 1846, after repeated instances of
self-devotion and generous efforts to save the lives of his companions in peril, aged 25 years.
As an officer, his character secured the confidence of his commanders. As a man, the qual
ities of his heart won the ardent friendship of his comrades ; and in token of regret for his
untimely death this stone is raised over his remains by the officers, professors and cadets of
the Military Academy.
Sacred to the remains of LT. COL. ALEX. R. THOMPSON, U. States 6th Infantry, born Feb.
19, 1793, fell Dec. 25, 1837, at the head of his regiment, in a successful charge, at the
battle of Okee-cho-bee, Florida. With morals founded on Christian piety, his life was ex
emplary as his death was glorious. This monument is the joint tribute of his affectionate
widow and admiring regiment. The son of a gallant officer of the revolutionary army whose
remains lie interred near this spot, his devotion to country was the dictate of principle and
example.
Tarn/town^ "West Chester county, a small village of about 1,000 inhabi
tants, is 28 miles north from New York, on the east side of the Hudson, on
Tappan Bay. It is celebrated as the place of the capture of Maj. Andre, in
1780. Andre was executed at Tappan, on the opposite side of the Hudson,
Oct. 2. His remains were disinterred, under the direction of Mr. Buchanan,
the British consul at New York, in Aug., 1831, and conveyed to London.
The following is from Holmes' Annals:
The most flagrant instance of treachery during the revolutionary war occurred
this year. The American army was stationed in the strongholds of the highlands,
on both sides of the North River. For the defense of this river, a fortress had
been built at West Point, after the loss of Fort Montgomery, and it was so strong
and impregnable as to be called the Gibraltar of America. Of this post General
Arnold solicited the command, and General Washington, far from suspecting any
sinister views in an officer who had been uniformly zealous and active in the cause
of his country, complied with the solicitation. When Arnold had become invested
with the command, he carried on a negotiation with Sir Henry Clinton, by which
it was agreed that Arnold should make such a disposition of his forces as would
enable the British general effectually to surprise West Point. The agent employed
in this negotiation was Major Andre, Adjutant-General of the British army. To
NEW YORK.
417
favor the communications, the Vulture, a British sloop-of-war, had been previously
stationed in North River, as near Arnold's posts as could be without exciting sus
picion. On the night of the 21st of September, a boat was sent from the shore to
fetch Major Andre, and Arnold met him at
the beach, without the posts of both ar
mies. Their business not being finished
until it was too near morning for Andre to
return to the Vulture, Arnold, telling him
he must be concealed until the next night,
conducted him within one of the American
posts, where he continued with him the
following day. The Vulture having in the
mean time changed her position, the boat
men refused to carry back Andre the next
night, and he could now return to New
York in no other way than by land. Quit
ting for a common coat his uniform, which
he had worn under a surtout, he set out on
horseback, under the name of John Ander
son, with a passport "to go to the lines of
White Plains, or lower, if he thought prop
er, he being on public business."- When
advanced a great part of the way, he was
stopped by three of the New York militia,
belonging to a scouting party, and several
papers, containing exact returns of the
state of the forces, ordnance and defenses
at West Point, were found in his boots. The captors, disdaining a proffered bribe
of a purse of gold and permanent provision and promotion, on condition of their
conveying and accompanying him to New York, delivered him a prisoner to Lieu
tenant-Colonel Jameson, who commanded the scouting parties. Andre, with the
incautious permission of Jameson, informed Arnold of his detention, in a letter,
on the receipt of which Arnold abandoned everything, and went on board the Vul
ture sloop-of-war. General Washington referred the case of Andre to the exami
nation and decision of a board, consisting of
fourteen officers, who, without examining a
single witness, founded their report on his
own confession. After stating the facts,
they reported it as their opinion "that Ma
jor Andre ought to be considered as a spy,
and that, agreeably to the laws and usages
of nations, he should suffer death." He was
accordingly hung as a spy on the 2d of Oc
tober.
ANDRE'S PLACE OF EXECUTION.
Sunnyside, the residence of the late
Washington Irving, is two miles below
Tarrytown. It stands on the Hudson, in
the midst of the scenes made classic by
the graces of his pen. Here is Tappan
Sea, the widest part of that noble stream,
which at this point is expanded to the
width of three miles, and is partly bound
ed on the west by the lofty palisades
shown in the engraving in the distance.
Mr. Irving was the son of a Scotchman, and was born in New York city
just at the close of the American revolution. He was educated for the bar,
SUNNYSIDE,
Residence of Washington Trying.
418 NEW YORK.
but never practiced. At the age of twenty-one he visited Europe for his
health, and much of his early life was passed abroad. His principal works
are "Knickerbocker's History of New York," "Bracebridge Hall," "Tales of
a Traveler," "Life and Voyages of Columbus," "Conquest of Granada," '-The
Sketch Book," "Life of Washington," etc. To him belonged the singular
honor of being the first American literary writer who achieved a reputation
as such in Europe. The taunt of a British review, "who reads an American
book?" was dispelled of its sting by the sudden and unexpected popularity
which Irving's writings soon after everywhere met with from the literary
world.
Washington Irving closed his long and useful life in November, 1859.
We terminate this notice by an extract from the beautiful eulogy of Wm.
C. Bryant upon his character and writings:
That amiable character which makes itself so manifest in the writings of Irving
was seen in all his daily actions. He was ever ready to do kind offices — tender of
the feelings of others, carefully just, but ever leaning to the merciful side of justice,
averse from strife, and so modest that the world never ceased to wonder how it
should have happened that one so much praised should have gained so little assur
ance. He envied no man's success — ho sought to detract from no man's merits,
but he was acutely sensitive both to praise and to blame — sensitive to such a de
gree that an unfavorable criticism of any of his works would almost persuade him
that they were as worthless as the critic represented them. He thought so little
of himself that he could never comprehend why it was that he should be the object
of curiosity or reverence.
His facility in writing and the charm of his style were owing to very early prac
tice, the reading of good authors and the native elegance of his mind, and not, in
my opinion, owing to any special study of the graces of manner, or any anxious
care in the use of terms and phrases. Words and combinations of words are soine-
times found in his writings to which a fastidious taste might object, but these do
not prevent his style from being one of the most agreeable in the whole range of
our literature. It is transparent as the light, sweetly modulated, unaffected, the na
tive expression of a fertile fancy, a benignant temper, and a mind which, delighting
in the noble and the beautiful, turned involuntarily away from their opposites.
His peculiar humor was, in a great measure, the offspring of this constitution of
his mind. This ''fanciful playing with common things," as Mr. Dana calls it, is
never coarse — never tainted with grossness, and always in harmony with our better
sympathies. It not only tinged his writings, but overflowed in his delightful con
versation.
In his pages we see that the language of the heart never becomes obsolete ; that
Truth, and Good and Beauty, the offspring o£God, are not subject to the changes
which beset the inventions of men. We become satisfied that he whose works
were the delight of our fathers, 'and are still ours, will be read with the same pleas
ure by those who come after us.
If it were becoming at this time and in this assembly to address our departed
friend as if in his immediate presence, I would say: Farewell, thou who hast en
tered into the rest prepared, from the foundation of the world, for serene and gentle
spirits like thine. Farewell, happy in thy life, happy in thy death, happier in the
reward to which that death was the assured passage; fortunate in attracting the
admiration of the world to thy beautiful writings; still more fortunate in having
written nothing which did not tend to promote the reign of magnanimous forbear
ance and generous sympathies among thy fellow men. The brightness of that en
during fame which thou hast won on earth is but a shadowy symbol of that glory
to which thou hast been admitted in the world beyond the grave. Thy errand upon
earth was an errand of peace and good will to men, and thou art now in a region
where hatred and strife never enter, and where the harmonious activity of those
who inhabit it acknowledges no impulse less noble or less pure than that of love.
Stony Point is a little rough promontory on the west bank of the Hudson
NEW YORK.
419
nearly a mile below the entrance of the Highlands, having a lighthouse on
the summit. It was fortified during the revolution, and was stormed by G-en.
Wayne, July 16, 1779. Verplank's Point, on the opposite side of the river,
is also a place distinguished in the history of the revolution. The following
is from Holmes' Annals:
Northern mew of Stony Point, on the Hudson.
"The campaign of this year, though barren in important events, was distinguished
by one gallant enterprise, which reflected much honor on the American arms.
Stony Point, a fortress on the North River, had been taken from the Americans,
and strongly fortified by the British. Tt was at this time garrisoned by about six
hundred men, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Johnson. General Wash
ington, having obtained precise information of the condition of the works, the na
ture of the ground in their vicinity, the strength and arrangements of the garrison,
and the disposition of the guards, and having in person reconnoitered the post, re
solved to attempt the surprise of it. The execution of the plan was intrusted to
General Wayne, and the troops employed on this service were chiefly from New
England. It was the intention to attack the works on the right and left flanks at
the same instant. The regiments of Febiger and Meigs, with Major Hull's detach
ment, formed the right column, and Butler's regiment, with two companies under
Major Murfree, formed the left. The van of the right was composed of one hun
dred and fifty volunteers, led by Lieutenant-Colonel Fleury and Major Posey, and
the van of the left, of one hundred volunteers, under Major Stewart. At half past
eleven on the night of the 15th of July the columns moved on to the charge at oppo
site points of the works, the van of each with unloaded muskets and fixed bayonets.
Each column was preceded by a forlorn hope of twenty men, the one commanded
by Lieutenant Gibbons and the other by Lieutenant Knox, whose duty it was to
remove the abbatis and other obstructions. A deep morass, overflowed by the
tide, a double row of abbatis, and a formidable fortress, presented serious impedi
ments, but appalled not the assailants. Twenty minutes after twelve, both columns
rushed forward under a tremendous fire of musketry and grapeshot, entered the
works at the point of the bayonet, and meeting in the center of them at nearly the
same instant, compelled the garrison to surrender at discretion."
TROY, the capital of Renssellaer county, 6 miles above Albany, at the head
of steamboat navigation, is one of the most flourishing manufacturing and
commercial places in the state. The city is built on a plain somewhat ele
vated above the Hudson, extending from the river back to a range of hills,
terminating abruptly about one mile east, and furnishing from their summits
(elevated from 300 to 400 feet) a commanding and beautiful view of the city
27
420
NEW YORK.
and surrounding country. Mount Ida, directly in rear of the broadest part
of the city, and Mount Olympus, in the northern part, are the eminences
most distinguished for the fine prospects they afford. Two streams, the Wynants-
kill and Poestenkill, furnishing extensive water power, empty into the Hud
son within the limits of the city, the latter rolling down through a picturesque
ravine south of Mt. Ida. The limits of the city extend three miles along the
river, and one mile from east to west. It is laid out with much regularity,
and is handsomely built. The streets are sixty feet wide, and cross each
other at right angles, excepting River-street, which follows the curve of the
river, and is the principal thoroughfare of business.
Troy contains a large number of fine public buildings and private resi
dences. The Court House is a splendid edifice, built of Sing Sing marble, of
Grecian architecture, with a front of the Doric order. Several of the church
edifices are costly structures. The Troy Female Seminary, established here
by Mrs. Willard in 1821, is one of the most popular institutions of the kind
in the Union. It is beautifully situated in the central part of the city, with
ornamented grounds, commodious buildings, etc. The Renssellaer Institute
is a polytechnic school of high repute. The Troy City Hospital, under the
direction of the Sisters of Charity, annually receives a large number of pa
tients. Troy University, under the patronage of the Methodist denomina-
SoutJi-w ester n view of Troy from West Troy.
The view shows the appearance of Troy as seen from the west bank of the Hudson. The Hudson River
Railroad cars and station house are on the right ; the Troy University, on Mt. Ida, appears in the central
part.
tion, recently erected, stands on a commanding elevation 150 feet above the
level of the river; the building is four stories high, in the Byzantine style of
architecture. There are about thirty churches, and about 40,000 inhabi
tants.
NEW YORK. 421
Troy is distinguished for the business enterprise of its capitalists and citi
zens generally. Its situation for trade and commerce has some natural ad
vantages, but has been greatly improved and increased by various canals and
railroads, which, centering here, have made this a great thoroughfare for
travel and trade, and developed the manufacturing interests of the city. It
connects by the Hudson with the Erie Canal at West Troy, directly oppo
site, and with the Champlain Canal at Waterford, four miles above. Many
of the boats which arrive by these canals here discharge their cargoes on
board of large barges, to be towed down the river, and receive in exchange
cargoes of merchandise passing to the north and west. A dam across the
Hudson renders it navigable for sloops to Lansingburg. Steamboats of the
first class ply daily between this place and New York. The city contains
numerous flouring mills, paper mills, cotton and woolen factories, tanneries,
iron foundries, machine shops, rolling mills, etc.
The first settlement of Troy commenced about 1720, in which year Derick Van
Derheyden leased 490 acres of the proprietor of Renssellaerwyck, at the small rent
of three bushels and three pecks of wheat and four fat fowls annually. This tract now
constitutes the most densely populated portion of the city, and was formerly known
as the corn grounds of the native Indians. After the revolution, emigrants from
New England seeing the advantageous situation of Van Derheyden, as it was then
called, came into the place. Being situated at the head of natural navigation of
the Hudson, it soon began to outstrip Lansingburg, which had been unwisely lo
cated above the "rifts." In 1793, the name of Van Derheyden' s Ferry was changed
to the more classic name of Troy. It was made the county seat in 1791, incorpo
rated as a village in 1796, and as a city in 1816.
The influential men among the first settlers of Troy were the friends of order
and the supporters of the institution of religion. When too few to support a cler
gyman, they assembled in a store at the sound of a coach horn, and afterward in a
school house. Here they usually listened to a sermon read by Dr. Samuel Gall, or
Col. Pawling, a revolutionary officer. Rev. Dr. Jonas Coe, a Presbyterian clergy
man, appears to have been the first who officiated in the place. TheVirst Episcopal
church was erected in 1804, the first Baptist in 1805, and the first Methodist in
1809.
West Troy, Albany county, on the west side of the Hudson, opposite Troy,
of which it is properly a suburb or part, is 6 miles above Albany, with
which it is connected by a macadamized road. This flourishing place was
incorporated in 1836. The Erie Canal connects here, by lateral canals and
locks, with the Hudson. The surplus waters of the canal afford great water
power, which is extensively improved. One of the largest bell foundries in
the Union is at this place. The Watervliet Arsenal, established here in 1813
by the United States, comprises about 40 buildings on its grounds of 100
acres, and is the largest arsenal of construction in the country. It contains
about 9,000 inhabitants.
Lansingburg was incorporated in 1801. It is beautifully situated on the
east bank of the Hudson, 3 miles above Troy, with which it is closely con
nected. Formerly it was called the "New City," and at first had a rapid
growth. A bridge across the river connects it with Waterford. It is a^ place
of active business, and has a variety of manufactures. Population about
5,000.
The village of Saratoga Springs was incorporated in 1826. It is 181 miles
from New York and 36 from Albany. From being a place of resort for a few
invalids, it has, in the course of half a century, grown up to be one of the
largest and most beautiful villages in the state, and is now, during the summer
season, one of the greatest resorts of the wealth and fashion of the country on
422
NEW YORK.
the continent. It contains about 6,000 inhabitants. During the "heated
term" (June, July and August), there are here usually about 2,000 visitors.
The citizens have shown considerable liberality in improving and adorning
their village. The streets are well shaded by beautiful rows of maple, elm,
horse chestnut, and other trees, and the walks of the principal streets are
well flagged, rendering a promenade pleasant and agreeable. The hotels,
stores, shops, and many of the dwelling houses are lighted with gas, and in
the hight of the season the principal streets present a thronged and brilliant
appearance.
The Saratoga Springs are several in number, and are a continuation of a
chain of springs discovering themselves about twelve miles south in the town
of Ballston. Congress Spring is the most celebrated; by means of bottling
Southern view at Congress Spring, Saratoga.
The view is at the foot of Broadway. The structure on the left, on Congress-street, stands over Congress
Spring, the great place of fashionable resort during the early morning hours, being but a few rods distant
from the three principal hotels, the United States, Congress and Union Halls. The circular walk on the
elevated bank around the springs passes among the forest trees seen in the back-ground.
its waters and sending them abroad, its properties have become widely known
in various parts of the world. The Putnam Spring, owned by Mr. L. Put
nam, is a favorite with many visitants. The Iodine Spring, in the north-east
part of the village, was explored and curbed in the autumn of 1839, and was
first brought into notice the following summer. The Pavilion Spring, near
the center of the village, a few rods east of the Columbian Hotel, was brought
to its present condition in 1840, by Mr. D. McLaren, at an expense of several
thousand dollars. The Empire Spring has a high reputation. The Union
Spring is about a mile from the Iodine. The High Rock, Flat Rock, Ham
ilton, Columbian and Washington are all quite similar, being highly charged
with iron.
NEW YORK.
423
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Saratoga
graveyard. The first is in memory of Mr. Coleman, the inventor of the
Attachment to the Piano so well known in every part of the country :
"OsED M. COLEMAN, died April 5,
1845, aged 28. As well the singers —
as the players on instruments SHALL
BE THERE."
"The grave of WILLIAM LEETE
STONE, who died at Saratoga Springs
Aug. 15, 1844, aged 52. I shall be
satisfied in thy likeness." [Col. Stone
was the son of a Presbyterian clergy
man, and was born at Esopus, N. Y.
When quite young he removed to the
western part of the state with his
father. He was bred a printer at
Cooperstown, and at an early age be
gan to write for the public prints.
He edited a paper at Herkimer, at
Hudson, at Albany, and one at Hart
ford, Conn. In 182 Jp he succeeded
Mr. Lewis in the^clUorship of the
"New York Commercial Advertiser,"
becoming at the same time one of its
proprietors; he continued in charge
till his death. Col. S. was the author
of several historical works, the most
valuable of which were "Memoirs of Joseph Brandt," in 1838, and a "Me
moir of Red Jacket," in 1841, the "Life of Uncas," and "History of Wy
oming." These two first works are of the first
order. During the whole of his editorial
career Mr. S. was distinguished for his high,
honorable and Christian principles.]
0. M. COLEMAN'S MONUMENT.
i The brothers of MARGARET MILLER DAVID-
BON have erected this structure as a testimony
of their affection. She was the daughter of
Dr. Oliver and Mrs. Margaret Davidson, and
died at Saratoga Springs, Nov. 25, 1838, aged
15 years and 8 months. She has sculptured
for herself a more lasting monument, and when
this shall have crumbled into dust her name
will continue to be the goods' glowing theme.
[Underneath a representation of a broken harp.]
A few short years have rolled along,
With mingled joy and pain,
And I have passed, a broken tone,
And echo of a strain.
DAVIDSON MONUMENT.
The surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga, Oct. 17, 1777, was one of the
most important events in the revolutionary war. The place of surrender was
424
NEW YORK.
CHAM PLAIN
at Schuylerville, on the Hudson, some ten or twelve miles distant from Sara
toga Springs. The following account is from Holmes' Annals:
''A principal object of the British in the campaign of this year was to open a
free communication between New York and Canada. The British ministry were
sanguine in their hopes that, by effecting this object, New England, which they
considered as the soul of the confederacy, might be
severed from the neighboring states and compelled
to submission. In prosecution of this design, an
army of British and German troops, amounting to
seven thousand one hundred and seventy-three
men, exclusive of a corps of artillery, was put under
the command of Lieutenant-General Burgoyne, a
very ambitious, enterprising and able officer. The
plan of operations consisted of two parts. General
Burgoyne with the main body was to advance by
the way of Lake Champlain and force his way to
Albany, or at least so far as to effect a junction
with the royal army from New York, and Lieuten
ant-Colonel St. Leger, with about two hundred
British soldiers, a regiment of New York loyalists,
raised and commanded by Sir John Johnson, and a
large body of Indians, was to ascend the St. Law
rence to Lake Ontario, and from that quarter to pen
etrate toward Albany by the way of the Mohawk
River. 4 "
General $ur<J>;£^£ arrived at Quebec in May.
On the twentieth oreJune he proceeded up Lake
Champlain, and landed near Crown Point, where
he met the Indians, gave them a war feast, and
made a speech to them, calculated to secure their
friendly co-operation. On the thirtieth he advanced
with his army to Crown Point, whence he pro
ceeded to invest Ticonderoga. In a few days his
works were so far advanced as to threaten a complete inclosure of the continental
army; and General St. Clair, the commanding officer of the Americans, with the
unanimous approbation of a council of general officers, abandoned the place. The
evacuation was effected with such secresy and expedition that a considerable part
of the public stores, embarked in two hundred batteaux, and dispatched up the
river to Skenesborough under convoy of five armed galleys, was saved. A brigade
of gun boats, however, gave chase to the galleys, and coming up with them near
Skenesborough Falls engaged and captured some of the largest of them, and
obliged the Americans to set the others on fire, together with a considerable num
ber of their batteaux. The rear guard of the American army, commanded by Col
onel Warner, amounting to more than one thousand men, taking the Castleton
road to Skenesborough, was overtaken and attacked at Hubberton by General Fra-
zer with eight hundred and fifty fighting men. The Americans made a gallant re
sistance, but on the arrival of Gen. Reidesel with his division of Germans, they
were compelled to give way in all directions. Colonel Francis, a very valuable
officer, fell in the action ; several other American officers, and above two hundred
men, were killed, and about the same number taken prisoners. Nearly six hun
dred are supposed to have been wounded, many of whom must have died in the
woods. The enemy stated their own loss at thirty-five killed and one hundred and
forty-four wounded. General St. Clair, after a distressing march of seven davs,
joined General Schuyler at Fort Edward. General Burgoyne, having with "in
credible labor and fatigue conducted his army through the wilderness from Skenes
borough, reached Fort Edward, on Hudson's River, on the 30th of July. As he
approached that place, General Schuyler, whose forces, even since the junction of
St. Clair, did not exceed four thousand four hundred men, retired over the Hudson
to Saratoga."
MAP OF THE BOUTE OF BURGOYNE.
NEW YORK.
425
While Burgoyne was moving downward by the Hudson, St. Leger with Sir
John Johnson, with a body of nearly 2,000 men, consisting of royalists and In
dians, invested Fort Stanwix or Schuyler, on the Mohawk. Afterward he
had a most bloody contest with Gen. Herkimer at Oriskany. Instead, how
ever, of forming a junction with Burgoyne at Albany, as was intended, St.
Leger was obliged to retreat back to Montreal. Burgoyne saw the im
portance of a rapid movement to co-operate with St. Leger, but could not
effect it without teams, carriages and provisions, and having understood that
these could be obtained at Bennington, Vermont, he detached Col. Baum
with five hundred men to accomplish this purpose. He and Col. Breyman,
who was sent to his assistance, were defeated by Gen. Stark.
Western view of the Battle-Field of Stillwater.
"General Burgoyne having collected about thirty days' provisions, and thrown a
a bridge of boats over the Hudson, crossed that river on the 13th and 14th of Sep
tember, and encamped on the hights and plains of Saratoga. General Gates, who
had recently taken the chief command of the northern department of the American
army, advanced toward the enemy and encamped three miles above Stillwater. On
the night of the 17th, Burgoyne encamped within four miles of the American army,
and about noon on the 19th advanced in full force against it. The right wing was
commanded by General Burgoyne and covered by General Frazer and Colonel
Breyman with the grenadiers and light infantry, who were posted along some high
grounds on the right. The front and flanks were covered by Indians, Provincials
and Canadians. The left wing and artillery were commanded by the Major-Gen-
erals Phillips and Keidesel, who proceeded along the great road. Colonel Morgan,
who was detached to observe their motions, and to harass them as they advanced,
soon fell in with their pickets in the front of their right wing, attacked them
sharply and drove them in. A strong corps was brought up to support them, and
after a severe encounter Morgan was compelled to give way. A regiment was or
dered to assist him, and the action became more general. The commanders on
both sides supported and re-enforced their respective parties, and about four o'clock
Arnold, with nine continental regiments and Morgan's corps, was completely en
gaged with the whole right wing of the British army. 'For four hours they main
tained a contest hand to hand.1 The Americans at length left the field, 'not be
cause they were conquered, but because the approach of night made a retreat to
their camp necessary. Few actions have been more remarkable than this for both
vigor of attack and obstinacy of resistance.' The loss on the part of the Ameri
cans in killed and wounded was between three and four hundred; among the
former were Colonels Coburne and Adams, and several other valuable officers. The
loss of the British was about six hundred.
426 NEW YORK.
Both armies lay some time in sight of each other, each fortifying its camp in the
strongest manner possible. Meanwhile the difficulties of the British general were
daily becoming increased. His auxiliary Indians deserted him soon after the battle
of Stillwater. His army, reduced to little more than five thousand men, was limited
to half the usual allowance of provisions. The stock of forage was entirely ex
hausted, and his horses were perishing in great numbers. The American army
had become so augmented as to render him diffident of making good his retreat.
To aggravate his distress, no intelligence had yet been received of the approach of
General Clinton, or of any diversion in his favor from New York.
In this exigency, General Burgoyne resolved to examine the possibility of dis
lodging the Americans from their posts on the left, by which means he would be
enabled to retreat to the lakes. For this purpose he drew out fifteen hundred men,
which he headed himself, attended by Generals Phillips, Reidesel and Frazer.
This detachment had scarcely formed within less than half a mile of the American
intrenchments when a furious attack was made on its left, but Major Ackland, at
the head of the British grenadiers, sustained it with great firmness. The Ameri
cans soon extended their attack along the whole front of the German troops, which
were posted on the right of the grenadiers, and marched a body round their flank
to prevent their retreat. On this movement, the British light infantry, with a part
of the 24th regiment, instantly formed, to cover the retreat of the troops into the
camp. Their left wing, in the mean time, overpowered with numbers, was obliged
to retreat, and would inevitably have been cut to pieces but for the intervention of
the same troops, which had just been covering the retreat on the right. The whole
detachment was now under the necessity of retiring, but scarcely had the British
troops entered the lines when the Americans, led by General Arnold, pressed for
ward, and under a tremendous fire of grapeshot and musketry assaulted the works
throughout their whole extent from right to left. Toward the close of the day, a
part of the left of the Americans forced the intrenchments, and Arnold with a few
men actually entered the works, but his horse being killed and he himself badly
wounded in the leg, they were forced out of them, and it being now nearly dark
they desisted from the attack. On the left of Arnold's detachment, Jackson's regi
ment of Massachusetts, then led by Lieutenant-Colonel Brooks, was still more suc
cessful. It turned the right of the encampment, and carried by storm the works
occupied by the German reserve. Lieutenant-Colonel Breyman was killed, and
Brooks maintained the ground he had gained. Darkness put an end to the action.
The advantage of the Americans was decisive. They killed a great number of the
enemy; made upward of two hundred prisoners, among whom were several officers
of distinction ; took nine pieces of brass artillery, and the encampment of a German
brigade, with all their equipage. Among the slain of the enemy was General Fra
zer, an officer of distinguished merit, whose loss was particularly regretted. The
loss of the Americans was inconsiderable.
Gates posted 1,400 men on the hights opposite the ford of Saratoga, 2.000 in the
rear, to prevent a retreat to Fort Edward, and 1,500 at a ford higher up. Bur
goyne, apprehensive of being hemmed in, retired immediately to Saratoga.
An attempt was now made to retreat to Fort George. Artificers were accord
ingly dispatched, under a strong escort, to repair the bridges and open the road to
Fort Edward, but they were compelled to make a precipitate retreat. The situa
tion of General Burgoyne becoming every hour more hazardous, he resolved to at
tempt a retreat by night to Fort Edward, but even this retrograde movement was
rendered impracticable. While the arrny was preparing to march, intelligence was
received that the Americans had already possessed themselves of Fort Edward, and
that they were well provided with artillery. No avenue to escape now appeared.
Incessant toil had worn down the whole British army, which did not now contain
more than 3,500 fighting men. Provisions were almost exhausted, and there were
no possible means of procuring a supply. The American army, which was daily
increasing, was already much greater than the British in point of numbers, and al
most encircled them. In this extremity, the British general called a council of war,
and it was unanimously resolved to enter into a convention with General Gates.
Preliminaries were soon settled, and the royal army surrendered prisoners of war.
The capture of an entire army was justly viewed as an event that must essentially
NEW YORK.
427
affect the contest between Great Britain and America; and while it excited the
highest joy among the people it could not but have a most auspicious influence in
the cabinet and in the field. The thanks of congress were voted to General Gates
and his army, and a medal of gold, in commemoration of this splendid achieve
ment, was ordered to be struck, to be presented to him by the president, in the
name of the United States."
Whitehall is a flourishing town about 75 miles northward of Albany, at
the southern extremity of Lake Champlain, and at the termination of the
Ohamplain Canal. Population about 4,000. This place was the ancient
Skencsboro, so named from Maj. Skene, a royalist who resided here previous
to the revolution. It was occupied by Burgoyne as his headquarters for a
considerable time while his troops were clearing a road to Fort Edward.
Ruins of Fort Ticonderoga.
Ticonderoga is a small village at the outlet of Lake George, 95 miles north
ward of Albany, having a steamboat landing, etc. Two or three miles below
it are the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, the fortress so celebrated in colonial and
revolutionary history. These are situated oft1 a peninsula of about 500 acres,
elevated nearly one hundred feet above Lafe Champlain. The fortress was
originally erected by the French in 1756.
The following account of the defeat of General Abercrombie before Ticon
deroga, July 8, 1758, is from the 3d volume of Macauley's History of New
York :
The expedition against Ticonderoga and Crown Point was conducted by Abercrombie
in person. In the beginning of July he embarked his forces, amounting to nearly seven
thousand regulars and ten thousand provincials, on Lake George, on board of nine hundred
batteuax and one hundred and thirty five whale-boats, with provisions, artillery and ammu
nition. Several pieces of cannon were mounted on rafts, to cover the proposed landing at
the outlet of the lake. Early the next morning he reached the landing-place, which was
in a cove on the west side of the lake, near its issue, leading to the advanced guard of the
enemy, composed of one battalion, in a logged camp. He immediately debarked his
forces, and after having formed them into three columns, marched to the enemy's advanced
post, which was abandoned with precipitation. He continued his march with the army to
ward Ticonderoga, with the intention of investing it, but the route laying through a thick
wood that did not admit of any regular progression, and the guides proving extremely ig
norant, the troops were bewildered, and the columns broken by falling in one on another.
Lord Howe being advanced at the head of the right centre column, encountered a French
detachment, that had likewise lost its way in the retreat from the advanced post, and a
warm skirmish ensuing, the enemy were routed with considerable loss, and one hundred
and forty-eight were taken prisoners. This advantage was purchased at a dear rate. Lord
Howe and one other officer, beside privates, were killed. The former is spoken of in very
428 NEW YORK.
high terms for his bravery. Abercrombie perceiving the troops were greatly fatigued and
disordered, deemed it advisable to fall back to the landing place. Then he detached
Lieutenant-Colonel Bradstreet, with a detachment, to take possession of a saw-mill in the
vicinity of Ticonderoga, which the enemy had abandoned. This post being secured,
Abercrombie advanced again toward Ticonderoga, where, he understood from the prisoners,
the enemy had assembled eight battalions, with a body of Canadians and Indians, amount
ing in all" to six thousand men. The actual number," however, was considerably less, not
exceeding four thousand men, as was afterward ascertained. These, they said, being en
camped before the fort, were employed in making a formidable iutrenchment, where they
intended to wait for a reinforcement of three thousand men, who had been detached, under
the command of M. de Levi, to make a diversion on the side of the Mohawk, but upon
intelligence of Abercrombie's approach were now recalled for the defense of Ticonderoga.
This information induced Abercrombie to strike, if possible, some decisive blow before the
junction could be effected. He therefore early next morning sent his engineer to recoii-
noiter the enemy's intrenchments, and he, upon his return, reported that the works being
still unfinished, might be attempted with good prospect of success. A disposition was
made accordingly for the attack, and after proper guards had been left at the saw-mill and
the landing place, the whole army was put in motion. The troops advanced with great
alacrity toward the intrenchments, which, however, they found altogether impracticable. The
breastwork was raised eight feet high, and the ground before it covered with an abattis,
or felled trees, with their boughs pointing outward, and projecting in such a manner as to
render the intrenchment almost inaccessible. Notwithstanding these discouraging difficul
ties, the troops marched up to the assault with an undaunted resolution, and sustained a
terrible fire. They endeavored to force their way through these embarrassments, and
some of them even mounted the parapet, but the enemy were so well covered, and defended
their works with so much gallantry, notwithstanding their greatly inferior numbers, that no
impression could be made ; the carnage became fearfully great, and the assailants began to
fall into great confusion, after several attacks, which lasted several hours. Abercrombie
by this time saw plainly that no hope of success remained, and in order to prevent a total
defeat, sounded.a retreat, leaving about two thousand men on the field. Every corps of the
army behaved, on this unfortunate day, with remarkable intrepidity ; the greatest loss sus
tained among the corps was that of the regiment of Lord John Murray."
The seizure of the fortress of Ticonderoga, by Col. Ethan Allen, on the
10th of May, 1775, is thus related by Ramsey in his History of the American
Revolution:
"It early occurred to many that if the sword decided the controversy between Great
Britain and her colonies, the possession of Ticonderoga would be essential to the security
of the latter. Situated on a promontory, formed at the junction of the waters of Lake
George and Lake Champlain, it was the key of all communication between New York and
Canada. Messrs. Deane, Wooster, Parssons, Stevens, and others of Connecticut, planned
a scheme for obtaining possession of this valuable post. Having procured a loan of $1,800
of public money, and provided a sufficient quantity of powder and ball, they set off for
Bennington, to obtain the co-operation of Colonel Allen, of that place. Two hundred and
seventy men, mostly of that brave and hardy people who are called Green Mountain boys,
were s"peedily collected at Castleton, which was fixed on as the place of rendezvous. At
this place Colonel Arnold, who, though attended only with a servant, was prosecuting the
same object, unexpectedly joined them. He had been early chosen a captain of a volun
teer company by the inhabitants of New Haven, among whom he resided. As soon as
he received news of the Lexington battle, he marched off with his company for the vicinity
of Boston, and arrived there, though 150 miles distant, in a few days. Immediately after
his arrival he waited on the Massachusetts' committee of safety, and informed them that
there were at Ticonderoga many pieces of cannon and a great quantity of valuable stores,
and that the fort was in a ruinous condition, and garrisoned only by about 40 men. They
appointed him a colonel, and commissioned him to raise 400 men, and to take Ticonderoga.
The leaders of the party which had previously rendezvoused at Castleton admitted Oolonel
Arnold to join them, and it was agreed that Colonel Allen should be the commander- in-
chief of the expedition, and that Colonel Arnold should be his assistant. They proceeded
without delay, and arrived in the night at Lake Champlain, opposite to Ticonderoga. Al
len and Arnold crossed over with eighty-three men, and landed near the garrison. They
contended who should go in first, but it was at last agreed that they should both go in to
gether. They advanced abreast, and entered the fort at the dawning of day. A sentry
snapped his piece at one of them, and then retreated through the covered way to the pa
rade. The Americans followed, and immediately drew up. The commander, surprised in
his bed, was called upon to surrender the fort. He asked, by what authority ? Colonel
NEW YORK. 429
Allen replied, '/ demand it in the name of the great Jehovah, and of the continental congress.'
No resistance was made, and the fort, with its valuable stores and forty-eight prisoners,
fell into the hands of the Americans. The boats had been sent back for the remainder of
the men, but the business was done before they got over. Colonel Seth Warner was sent
off with a party to take possession of Crown Point, where a sergeant and twelve men per
formed garrison duty. This was speedily effected. The next object calling for the atten
tion of the Americans was to obtain the command of Lake Champlain, but to accomplish
this it was necessary for them to get possession of a sloop of war lying at St. Johns, at the
northern extremity of the lake. With the view of capturing this sloop, it was agreed to
man and arm a schooner lying at South Bay, and that Arnold should command her, and
that Allen should command some batteaux on the same expedition. A favorable wind car
ried the schooner ahead of the batteaux, and Colonel Arnold got immediate possession of
the sloop by surprise. The wind again favoring him, he returned with his prize to Ticon-
deroga, and rejoined Col. Allen. The latter soon went home, and the former, with a num
ber of men, agreed to remain there in garrison. In this rapid manner the possession of
Ticonderoga and the command of Lake Champlain were obtained, without any loss, by a
few determined men."
Plattsburg, the county seat of Clinton county, is about 150 miles north
from Albany, and 120 from Ogdensburg, on the St. Lawrence. It is situated
on both sides of ihe Saranac River, at its entrance into Cumberland Bay. It
has an active trade, and manufactories of various kinds. Population about
3,000. It is celebrated for the battle in the war of 1812-15, between the
Americans and British, Sept. 11, 1814, in which the Americans were victo
rious, under General Macomb on land, and Commodore Macdonough on the
lake, after a hard fought battle. Commodore Downie, the commander of the
British fleet, was killed in the action, and was buried in the graveyard in this
place, where there is a monument erected to his memory.
On the 1st of Sept., 1814, Gen. Prevost, the British governor, having re
ceived a large reinforcement, principally veterans from the armies of Spain,
established his headquarters at Champlain, fifteen miles distant from the
American lines. His force amounted to about 15,000 men, and his instruc
tions were to penetrate into the United States by way of Plattsburg. Gen.
Macomb made every exertion to oppose his progress. The militia of Wash
ington, Warren, Clinton and Essex counties were ordered out en masse. The
militia and volunteers from the counties of Vermont bordering on the lake
came in great numbers. The British force, under Sir George Prevost, ad
vanced with caution toward Plattsburg. The American troops retired to the
south side of the Saranac, took up the bridges, made breastworks of them,
and guarded the fordways. The following account is from Perkins' History
of the War:
The American fleet, under Commodore Macdonough, lay at anchor in the bay, on
the right flank of the American lines, and two miles distant. Great exertions had
been made by both parties to produce a superior naval force on this lake, the
Americans at Otter Creek and the British at the Isle aux Noix. On comparing
their relative strength on the llth of September, the American fleet consisted of
the Saratoga, flag ship, mounting 26 guns; Eagle, 20 guns; Ticonderoga, 17 guns;
Preble, 7 guns; six galleys, of two guns each, 12 guns; four of one, 4 guns, making
in the whole 86 guns, and 820 men. The British fleet consisted of the frigate Con-
fiance, flag ship, mounting 39 guns; Linnet, 16 guns; Cherub, 11 guns; Finch, 11
£uns; five galleys, of two guns each, 10 guns; eight, of one, 8 guns, making in the
whole 95 guns, and 1,020 men.
The British land forces employed themselves from the 7th to the llth, in bring
ing up their heavy artillery, and strengthening their works on the north bank of
the Saranac. Their fortified encampment was on a ridge a little to the west of the
town, their right near the river, and their left resting on the lake, one mile in the
rear of the village. Having determined on a simultaneous attack by land and
water, they lay in this position on the morning of the llth, waiting the approach of
430 NEW YORK.
their fleet. At eight o'clock the wished for ships appeared under easy sail, moving
round Cumberland head, and were hailed with joyous acclamations. At nine they
anchored within three hundred yards of the American squadron in line of battle;
the Confiance opposed to the Saratoga, the Linnet to the Eagle; thirteen British
galleys to the Ticonderoga, Preble, and a division of the American galleys. The
Cherub assisting the Confiance and Linnet, and the Finch aiding the galleys. In
this position, the weather being perfectly clear and calm, and the bay smooth, the
whole force on both sides became at once engaged. At an hour and a half after
the commencement of the action, the starboard guns of the Saratoga were nearly
all dismantled. The commandant ordered a stern anchor to be dropped, and the
bower cable cut, by means of which the ship rounded to and presented a fresh
broadside to her enemy. The Confiance attempted the same operation and failed.
This was attended with such powerful effects that she was obliged to surrender in
a few minutes. The whole broadside of the Saratoga was then brought to bear on
the Linnet, and in fifteen minutes she followed the example of her flag ship. One
of the British sloops struck to the Eagle ; three galleys were sunk, and the rest
made off; no ship in the fleet being in a condition to follow them, they escaped
down the lake. There was no mast standing in either squadron, at the close of the
action, to which a sail could be attached. The Saratoga received fifty-five round
shot in her hull, and the Confiance one hundred and five. The action lasted with
out any cessation, on a smooth sea, at close quarters, two hours and twenty min
utes. In the American squadron, fifty-two were killed and fifty-eight wounded. In
the British, eighty-four were killed and one hundred and ten wounded. Among
the slain was the British commandant, Commodore Downie. This engagement was
in full view of both armies, and of numerous spectators collected on the bights bor
dering on the bay to witness the scene. It was viewed by the inhabitants with
trembling anxiety, as success on the part of the British would have opened to them
an easy passage into the heart of the country, and exposed a numerous population
on the borders of the lake to British ravages. When the flag of the Confiance was
struck, the shores resounded with the acclamations of the American troops and
citizens. The British, when they saw their fleet completely conquered, were dis
pirited and confounded.
At the moment of the commencement of the naval action, the British, from their
works on shore, opened a heavy fire of shot, shells and rockets upon the American
lines. This was continued with little mterruption until sunset, and returned with
spirit and effect At six o'clock the firing on the part of the British ceased, every
battery having been silenced by the American artillery. At the commencement
of the bombardment, and while the ships were engaged, three desperate efforts
were made by the British to pass the Saranac, for the purpose of carrying the
American lines by assault. With this view, scaling-ladders, fascines, and every
implement necessary for the purpose, were prepared. One attempt was made to
cross at the village bridge, one at the upper bridge, and one at the ford-way, three
miles above the works. At each point they were met at the bank by the American
troops and repulsed. At the bridges, the American regulars immediately drove
them back. The ford was guarded by the volunteers and militia. Here a consid
erable body of British effected a passage, and the militia retired into the neighbor
ing woods, where their operations would be more effectual. A whole company of
the 76th regiment was here destroyed, three lieutenants and twenty-seven men
taken, and the captain and the rest of the company killed. The residue of the
British were obliged to recross the river with precipitation and considerable loss.
At dusk the British withdrew their cannon from the batteries, at nine sent off all
the artillery and baggage for which they could procure transports, and at two the
following morning the whole army precipitately retreated, leaving their sick and
wounded behind. Great quantities of provisions, tents, intrenching tools and am
munition were also left. Much was found concealed in the ponds and creeks and
buried in the ground. Their retreat was so sudden, rapid and unexpected that
they arrived at Chazy, a distance of eight miles, before their departure was known
to the American general. The light troops and militia were immediately ordered
out in pursuit, but were unable to make many prisoners. L^pward of three hun
dred deserters came in within two or three davs after the action, who confirmed
NEW YORK.
431
the account of Prevost's precipitate flight, and assisted in discovering the property
they had concealed and left behind. The American loss on land, during the day,
was thirty-seven killed and eighty-two wounded and missing. General Macomb's
official report estimates the British loss, in land and naval forces, since their leav
ing Montreal, in killed, wounded, prisoners, deserters and missing, at tAventy-five
hundred.
SCHENECTADY, one of the oldest places in the state, is situated on the Mo
hawk River, the Erie Canal and Central Railroad, 16 miles N. \V. of Albany,
and is the terminus of several railroads. It has manufactures of ironware,
machinery, etc., and a nourishing trade. Population is about 9,000. Union
Western view of Union College, Schenectady.
The College buildings are situated a little eastward of the compact part of the city, on rising ground,
overlooking the Mohawk Valley.
College, in this city, was incorporated in 1794, and reached its present nour
ishing condition from a small beginning. A suite of edifices was at the first
erected in the heart of the city, the principal one of which was afterward used
as a court house. The present location was purchased by the trustees in
1814. Schenectady was settled by whites at a very early date.
"Its name, pronounced by the Indians Schagh-nac-taa-da, signifying "beyond the
pine j3Zains,"was originally applied to Albany. The compact part of the city was
in olden time the site of an Indian village called Con-nugh-harie gugh-harie, liter
ally, lia great multitude collected together." It is said that it was the principal seat
of the Mohawks, even before the confederacy of the Iroquis, or Five Nations. It
was abandoned by them at a very early period in the colonial history. Some time
previous to 1620, fifteen or twenty persons, twelve of whom were direct from Hol
land, and the rest from Albany, settled here for the purpose of carrying on the fur
trade. It appears from the Dutch records that the first grant of lands was made
in 1661, to Arent Van Corlaer and others, on condition that they purchased the
soil from the Indians. The deed was obtained in 1672, and signed by four Mohawk
chiefs."
The following account of the destruction of Schenectady by the French
and Indians, in 1690, is extracted from Drake's '-Book of the Indians: "
After two and twenty days march, the enemy fell in with Schenectady. Feb. fl,
1690. There were about 200 French, and perhaps 50 Caughnewaga Mohawks, and
they at first intended to have surprised Albany, but their inarch had been so long
and tedious, occasioned by the deepness of the snow and coldness of the weather,
432 NEVV YORK.
that, instead of attempting any thing offensive, they had nearly decided to surren
der themselves to the first English they should meet, such was their distressed sit
uation, in a camp of snow, but a few miles from the devoted settlement. The In
dians, however, saved them from the disgrace. They had sent out a small scout from
their party, who entered Schenectady without even exciting suspicion of their er
rand. When they had staid as long as the nature of their business required, they
withdrew to their fellows.
Seeing that Schenectady offered such an easy prey, it put new courage into the
French, and they came upon it as above related. The bloody tragedy commenced
between eleven and twelve o'clock Saturday night, and that every house might be
surprised at nearly the same time, the enemy divided themselves into parties of six
or seven men each. Although the town was empaled, no one thought it necessary
to close the gates, even at night, presuming the severity of the season was a suffi
cient security; hence the first news of the approach of the enemy was at every
door of every house, which doors were broken as soon as the profound slumbers of
those they were intended to guard. The same inhuman barbarities now followed
that were afterward perpetrated upon the wretched inhabitants of Montreal. "Xo
tongue," said Col. Schuyler, "can express the cruelties that were committed." Sixty-
three houses and the church were immediately in a blaze. Enciente women, in
their expiring agonies, saw their infants cast into the flames, being first delivered by
the knife of the midnight assassin ! Sixty-three persons were put to death, and
twenty-seven were carried into captivity.
A few persons fled toward Albany, with no other covering but their night
clothes, the horror of whose condition was greatly enhanced by a great fall of
gnow, twenty-five of whom lost their limbs from the severity of 'the frost. With
these poor fugitives came the intelligence to Albany, and that place was in a dis
mal confusion, having, as usual upon such occasions, supposed the enemy to have
been seven times more numerous than they really were. About noon, the next
day, the enemy set off from Schenectady, taking all the plunder they could carry
with them, among which were forty of the best horses. The rest, with all the cat
tle, and other domestic animals, lay slaughtered in the streets.
One of the most considerable men of Schenectady, at this time, was Capt. Alex
ander Glen. He lived on the opposite side of the river, and was suffered to escape,
because he had delivered many French prisoners from torture and slavery who had
been taken by the Indians in the former wars. They had passed his house in the
night, and, during the massacre, he had taken the alarm, and in the morning he
was found ready to defend himself. Before leaving the village, a French officer
summoned him to a council, upon the shore of the river, with the tender of per
sonal safety. He at length ventured down, and had the great satisfaction of having
all his captured friends and relatives delivered to him, and the enemy departed,
keeping good their promise that no injury should be done him.
Among those who made a successful defense, and kept the foe at bay, was Adam
Vrooman. Being well supplied with ammunition, and trusting to the strength of
his building, which was a sort of a fort, he formed the desperate resolution to de
fend himself to the last extremity, and if it should prove his fate to perish in
the ruins of his own domicil, to sell his own life and that of his children as dear
as possible. Seconded in his efforts by one of his sons, who assisted in loading hia
guns, he kept up a rapid and continuous fire upon his assailants, and with the most
deadly effect. His house was soon filled with smoke. His wife, nearly suffocated
with it, cautiously, yet imprudently, placed the door ajar. This an alert Indian
perceived, and, firing through the aperture, killed her. In the mean time, one of
nis daughters escaped from the back hall door with his infant child in her arms.
They snatched the little innocent from her arms and dashed out its brains, and in
the confusion of the scene the girl escaped. Their triumph here, however, was of
short duration; Mr. Vrooman succeeded in securely bolting the door and prevent
ing the intrusion of any of the enemy. On witnessing Mr. Vrooman's courage,
and fearing greater havoc among their chosen band, the enemy promised, if he
would desist, to save his life and not set fire to his building. This promise they
fulfilled, but carried off two of his sons into captivity.
NEW YORK.
433
The following ballad is an interesting relic of antiquity. It was written
in 1690, to commemorate the destruction of Schenectady, and is composed
something in the style of the celebrated "Chevy Chase" :
"A BALLAD,
"In which is set forth the horrid cruelties practised by the French and Indians on the
night of the 8th of last February. The which I did compose last night in the space of one
hour, and am now writing, the morning of Friday, June 12, 1690. WALTER WILLIE.
0 Christe ! In the still midnight air
It sounded dismally ;
The women's prayers, and the loud screams
Of their great agony.
"God prosper long our king and queen,
Our lives and safeties all ;
A sad misfortune once there did
Schenectady befall.
From forth the woods of Canada
The Frenchmen tooke their way,
The people of Schenectady
To captivate and slay.
They marched for two and twenty daies,
All through the deepest snow;
And on a dismal winter night
They strucke the cruel blow.
The lightsome sun that rules the day
Had gone down in the west;
And eke the drowsie villagers
Had sought and found their reste.
They thought they were in saftie all,
And dreampt not of the foe,
But att midnight they all awoke
In wonderment and woe.
For they were in their pleasant beddes,
And soundelie sleeping, when
Each door was sudden open broke
By six or seven men.
The men and women, younge and olde,
And eke the girls and boys. '
All started up in great affright
Att the alarming noise.
They then were murther'd in their beddes,
Without shame or remorse ;
And soon the floors and streets were strew'd
With many a bleeding corse.
The village soon began to blaze,
Which shew'd the horrid sight —
But, 0, I scarce can beare to tell
The miseries of that night.
They threw the infants in the fire,
The men they did not spare ;
But killed all which they could find,
Though aged or tho' fair.
Methinks as if I hear them now
All ringing in my ear
The shrieks and groans and woeful sighs
They uttered in their fear.
But some run off to Albany,
And told the dolefull tale ;
Yet though we gave our chearful aid
It did not much avail.
And we were horribly afraid,
And shook with terror, when
They told us that the Frenchmen were
More than a thousand men.
The news came on the Sabbath morn
Just at the break of day,
And with a companie of horse
I galloped away.
But soon we found the French were gono
With all their great bootye ;
And then their trail we did pursue,
As was our true dutye.
The Mohaques joined our brave partye,
And followed in the chase,
Till we came up with the Frenchmen
Att a most likelye place.
Our soldiers fell upon their rear
And killed twenty-five;
Our young men were so much enraged \
They took scarce one alive.
D'Aillebout them did commande,
Which were but thievish rogues,
Else why did they consent and goe
With bloodye Indian dogges ?
And here I ende the long ballad,
The which you just have redde ;
I wish that it may stay on earth
Long after I am dead.
UTICA is beautifully situated on the south side of the Mohawk, on an in
clined plain rising from the river, 96 miles from Albany, 241 from New
York and 202 from Buffalo. The Erie Canal here is 70 feet wide, and the
Central Railroad passes through the city. The Chenango Canal, 97 miles
long, extends from Utica to Binghampton. Utica is surrounded by a highly
productive and populous country, to which turnpikes and plank roads radiate
in various directions. The city is laid out with general regularity, with spa-
434
NEW YORK.
cious streets, some of which are 100 feet wide, and is well built, having many
fine blocks of stores and elegant dwellings. Much attention is given to edu
cation, and there are several flourishing incorporated seminaries in the place.
It has 8 banks, 23 churches, and about 23,000 inhabitants. The manufac
turing interests of the city are varied, important and flourishing. The State
Lunatic Asylum is located about one mile from the center of the city, on
elevated ground, with splendid buildings, surrounded by a farm of one hun
dred and sixty acres.
The first building erected within the limits of Utica was a mud fort, con
structed during the old French war, which was named Fort Schuyler, in honor
View in Utica, foot of Genesee-street.
The view shows the foot of Genesee-street, looking northward. The five story building at the end of the
street is Baggs' Hotel, by the side of which the New York Central Railroad passes, a few yards from the
bank of the Mohawk River.
of Col. Schuyler. The settlement of Utica commenced at an early period,
but was not prosecuted with the vigor that some others were. Whites-
town was regarded as the great central point up to the year 1794. At this
period quite a village had grown up there, while Utica, or old Fort Schuyler,
as its site was then called, could boast of but three houses. The first church
gathered in this city was organized under the care of Rev. Bethuel Dodd, as
a branch of the church at Whitestown, in 1794.
Oriskany is about 7 miles westward of Utica, through which the railroad
between Utica and Syracuse and the Erie Canal pass. About two miles,
in a western direction, from the village the battle of Oriskany was fought, in
which Gen. Herkimer received a mortal wound.
"On the advance of the British forces, under Lieutenant- Colonel St. Leger, to the siege
of Fort Schuyler (Stanwix), at Rome, General Herkimer summoned the militia of Tryon
county to the field to march to the succor of the garrison. On the 5th of August, 1777,
he arrived near Oriskany with a body of upward of eight hundred men, all eager to meet
the enemy. On the morning of the 6th of August, General Herkimer determined to halt
NEW YORK. 435
till he had received reinforcements, or at least until the signal of a sortie should he re
ceived from the fort. His officers, however, were eager to press forward; high words en
sued, during which his two colonels and others denounced their commander to his face as
a tory and a coward. The brave old man calmly replied that he considered himself placed
over them as a father, and that it was not his wish to lead them into any difficulty from
which he could not extricate them. Burning, as they now seemed, to meet the enemy, he
told them roundly that they would run at his first appearance. But his remonstrances
were unavailing. Their clamor increased, and their reproaches were repeated, until, stung
by imputations of cowardice and a want of fidelity to the cause, and somewhat irritated
withal, the general immediately gave the order — ' march on! ' The words were no sooner
heard than the troops gave a shout, and moved, or rather rushed forward.' Colonel St.
Leger having heard of the advance of Gen. Herkimer, determined to attack him in an am
buscade. The spot chosen favored the design. There was a deep ravine crossing the
path which Herkimer was traversing, ' sweeping toward the east in a semi-circular form,
and bearing a northern and southern direction. The bottom of this ravine was marshy,
and the road crossed it by means of a causeway. The ground, thus partly inclosed by the
ravine, was elevated and level. The ambuscade was laid upon the high ground west of
the ravine.
The British troops, with a large body of Indians under Brant, disposed themselves in a
circle, leaving only a narrow segment open for the admission of Herkimer's troops. Un
conscious of the presence of the enemy, Gen. Herkimer with his whole force, with the ex
ception of the rear guard, found themselves encompassed at the onset, the foe clos
ing up the gap on their first fire. Those on the outside fled as their commander had pre
dicted; those within the circle were thrown into disorder by the sudden and murderous fire
now poured in upon them on all sides. Gen. Herkimer fell wounded in the early part of the
action, and was placed in his saddle against the trunk of a tree for his support, and thus
continued to order the battle. The action having lasted more than half an hour, in great
disorder, Herkimer's men formed themselves into circles to repel the attacks of the enemy,
who were now closing in upon them from all sides. From this moment their resistance
was more effective. The firing in a great measure ceased, and the conflict was carried on
with knives, bayonets, and the butt end of muskets. A heavy shower of rain now arrested
the work of death; the storm raged for an hour, and the enemy retired among the trees,
at a respectful distance, having suffered severely, notwithstanding the advantages in their
favor. During this suspension of the conflict, Gen. Herkimer's men, by his direction,
formed themselves into a circle and awaited the movements of the enemy. In the early
part of the battle, whenever a gun was fired by a militiaman from behind a tree, an Indian
rushed up and tomahawked him before he could reload. To counteract this, two men were
stationed behind a single tree, one only to fire at a time, the other to reserve his fire till
the Indian ran up as before. The fight was soon renewed, but by this new arrangement
the Indians suffered so severely that they began to give way. A reinforcement of the ene
my now came up, called Johnson's Greens. These men were mostly royalist, who, having
fled from Tryon county, now returned in arms against their former neighbors. Many of
the militia and the Greens knew each other, and as soon as they advanced near enough for
recognition, mutual feelings of hate and revenge raged in their bosoms. The militia fired
upon them as they advanced, and then springing like tigers from their covers, attacked
them with their bayonets and butts of their muskets, or both parties, in closer contact,
throttled each other and drew their knives, stabbing, and sometimes literally dying in each
other's embrace.'
This murderous conflict did not continue long; the Indians seeing with what resolution
the militia continued the fight, and finding their own numbers greatly diminished, now
raised the retreating cry of "Oonah! " and fled in every direction under the shouts of the
surviving militia, and a" shower of bullets. A firing was heard in the distance from the
fort; the Greens and Rangers now deemed that their presence was necessary elsewhere,
and retreated precipitately, leaving the victorious militia of Tryon county masters of the
field. ' Thus ended ' (says Col. Stone in his life of Brant), ' one of the severest, and, for
the numbers engaged, one of the most bloody battles of the revolutionary war.' The loss
of the militia, according to the American account, was two hundred killed, exclusive of
wounded and prisoners. The British claimed that four hundred of the Americans were
killed and two hundred taken prisoners. ' The loss of the enemy was equally if not more
severe than that of the Americans.' Gen. Herkimer, though wounded in the onset,, bore
himself during the six hours of conflict, under the most trying circumstances, with a de
gree of fortitude and composure worthy of admiration. ' At one time during the battle,
while sitting upon his saddle, raised upon a little hillock, being advised to select a less ex
posed situation, he replied, 'I will face the enemy.' Thus, surrounded by a few men, he
continued to issue his orders with firmness. In this situation, and in the heat of the on
slaught, he deliberately took his tinder box from his pocket, lit his pipe and smoked with
28
436
NEW YORK.
great composure.' After the battle was over, he was removed from the field on a litter,
and was conveyed to his house, below the Little Falls on the Mohawk."
Clinton is a village of about 2,000 inhabitants, 9 miles S. W. of Utica, on
the line of the Chenango Canal. It contains 5 churches, the Liberal Insti
tute, and several other literary institutions, male and female. The buildings
Eastern view of Hamilton College, Clinton.
The view shows the appearance of the College buildings as seen from Clinton village, by the Chenango
Canal ; the Observatory building appears on the extreme right.
of Hamilton College are a mile distant, standing on a most commanding em
inence westward of the Oriskany valley. About the year 1791, Mr. Kirk-
land, a devoted missionary among the Oneida Indians, conceived the project
of establishing a seminary which should be accessible to the Indian youth as
well as the whites. Through his exertions, a charter of incorporation was
obtained for the Institution in 1793, under the name of "Hamilton Oneida
Academy." This was afterward raised to the rank of a college, with the
style of "Hamilton College."
The following inscription is copied from a monument standing in the col
lege graveyard :
SKENANDOA. This monument is erected by the NORTHERN MISSIONARY SOCIETY, in testi
mony of their respect for the memory of Skenandoa, who died in the peace and hope of the
gospel, on the llth of March, 1816. Wise, eloquent and brave, he long swayed the councils
of his tribe, whose confidence and affection he eminently enjoyed. In the war which placed
the Canadas under the crown of Great Britain he was actively engaged against the French ;
in that of the revolution, he espoused that of the colonies, and ever afterward remained a
firm friend to the United States. Under the ministry of the Rev. Mr. Kirkland, he em
braced the doctrines of the gospel, and having exhibited their power in a long life adorned
by every Christian virtue, he fell asleep in Jesus at the advanced age of one hundred
years."
"Skenandoa's person was tall, well made and robust. His countenance was intelligent,
and displayed all the peculiar dignity of an Indian chief. In his youth he was a brave and
intrepid warrior, and in his riper years one of the noblest counsellors among the North
American tribes; he possessed a vigorous mind, and was alike sagacious, active and per
NEW YORK.
437
severing. As an enemy, he was terrible. As a friend and ally, he was mild and gentle in
his disposition, and faithful to his engagements. His vigilance once preserved from mas
sacre the inhabitants of the little settlement at German Flats. In the revolutionary war,
his influence induced the Oneidas to take up arms in favor of the Americans. Among the
Indians he was distinguished by the appellation of the 'white man's friend.'
Although he could speak but little English, and in his extreme old age was blind, yet
his company was sought. In conversation he was highly decorous, evincing that he had
profited by seeing civilized and polished society, and by mingling with good company in his
better days.
To a friend who called on him a short time since, he thus expressed himself by an inter
preter : 'I am an aged hemlock. The winds of an hundred winters have whistled through
my branches; I am dead at the top. The generation to which I belonged have run away
and left me; why I live the Great Good Spirit only knows. Pray to my Jesus that I may
have patience to wait for my appointed time to die.'
Honored Chief! His prayer was answered; he was cheerful and resigned to the last.
For several years he kept his dress for the grave prepared. Once and again, and again,
he came to Clinton to die, longing that his soul might be with Christ, and his body in the
narrow house near his beloved Christian teacher. While the ambitious but, vulgar great
look principally to sculptured monuments and to riches in the temple of earthly fame, Ske-
nandoa, in the spirit of the only real nobility, stood with his loins girded waiting the
coming of the Lord."
Rome, the semi-capital of Oneida county, is twelve miles north-westward
of Utica and 112 from Albany, on the summit level between the ocean and
Lake Ontario, 435 feet above the tide of Albany. It is situated on the Mo
hawk Elver, Erie Canal, and Central Railroad, at the southern terminus
of the Watertown and Rome Railroad, and the Black River Canal. The
borough contains a court-house, 12 churches, manufactories of cotton, iron,
and other articles. Population about 8,000.
Rome is the site of Ft. Stanwix, originally built in 1758, during the French
war, and named after Gen. Stanwix. It occupied a position commanding the
carrying place between the navigable waters of the Mohawk and Wood creek,
about a mile apart, and was regarded as the key to the communication be
tween Canada and the settlements on the Mohawk. It was originally a
square fort, having four bastions, etc. The principal fortress was erected at
an expense of $226,400, an enormous sum at that period, but at the com
mencement of the revolutionary war it was mostly in ruins. On the incur
sion of Burgoyne toward Albany, Col. St. Leger, with a considerable body
of loyalists and Indians under Brant, intended to pass down the Mohawk
valley and join him near that point. St. Leger with his motley force pro
ceeded down from Oswego, and arrived before Ft. Stanwix, August 3, 1777.
This fort had been repaired, its name changed to Ft. Schuyler, and garri
soned by 750 men under Gen. Gansevoort. St. Leger sent a flag into the
fort with a manifesto advising submission to the mercy of the king, and de
nouncing severe vengeance against those who should continue their rebellion.
The garrison, however, determined to defend the fort to the last extremity.
After the battle of Oriskany, the siege of the fort still continued, and the
situation of the garrison becoming somewhat critical, Gen. Arnold was dis
patched with a body of troops to their relief. The following is the account
of the stratagem used by Arnold for the dispersion of the enemy who were
besieging the fort:
"As he was advancing up the Mohawk, he captured a tory by the name of Hon-yost
Schuyler, who being a spy was condemned to death. Hon-yost 'was one of the coarsest
and most ignorant men in the valley, appearing scarce half removed from idiocy, and yet
there was no small share of shrewdness in his character.' He was promised his life if he
would go to the enemy, particularly the Indians, and alarm them by announcing that a
large army of the Americans was in full march to destroy them, etc. Hon-yost being ac
quainted with many of the Indians, gladly accepted the offer; one of his brothers was de-
438
NEW YORK.
tained as a hostage for his fidelity, and tvas to be hung if he proved treacherous. A
friendly Oneida Indian was let into the secret, and cheerfully embarked in the design.
Upon Hon-yost's arrival, he told a lamentable story of his being taken by Arnold, and of
his escape from being hanged. He showed them also several shot holes in his coat, which
he said were made by bullets fired at him when making his escape. Knowing the char
acter of the Indians, he communicated his intelligence to them in a mysterious and impos
ing manner. When asked the number of men which Arnold had, he shook his head mys
teriously and pointed upward to the leaves of the trees. These reports spread rapidly
View in the central part of Syracuse.
The view is looking eastward from near the bridge over the Erie Canal ; part of the Syracuse House ia
seen on the right ; the Yoorhees House, westward of the Canal, appears in the central part, at the left of
which is the new Court House, built of limestone, in the Anglo-Norman style.
through the camps. Meantime the friendly Oneida arrived with a belt and confirmed what
Hon-yost had said, hinting that a bird had brought him intelligence of great moment. On
his way to the camp of the besiegers, he had fallen in with two or three Indians of his ac
quaintance, who readily engaged in furthering his design. These sagacious fellows dropped
into the camp as if by accident; they spoke of warriors in great numbers rapidly advancing
against them. The Americans, it was stated, did not wish to injure the Indians, but if they
continued with the British they must all share one common fate. The Indians were thor
oughly alarmed, and determined on an immediate flight, being already disgusted with the
British service. Col. St. Leger exhorted, argued, and made enticing offers to the Indians
to remain, but all in vain. He attempted to get them drunk, but they refused to drink.
When he found them determined to go, he urged them to move in the rear of his army,
but they charged him with a design to sacrifice them to his safety. In a mixture of rage
and despair, he broke up his encampment with such haste that he left his tents, cannon
and stores to the besieged. The friendly Oneida accompanied the flying army, and being
naturally a wag, he engaged his companions, who were in the secret, to repeat at proper
intervals the cry, "They are coming! they are coming!" This appalling cry quickened the
flight of the fugitives wherever it was heard. The soldiers threw away their packs, and
the commanders took care not to be in the rear. After much fatigue and mortification,
they finally reached Oneida Lake, and there probably, for the first time, felt secure from
the pursuit of their enemies. From this place St. Leger hastened with his scattered forces
back to Oswego, and thence to Montreal."
SYRACUSE is situated at the southern extremity of Onandatra Lake, and
on the Erie Canal and Central Ilailroad, about midway between Albany
NEW YORK.
439
and Buffalo. It is 53 miles west of Utica, 133 from Albany, 99 from Ro
chester, and 35 from Oswego, on Lake Ontario. The great thoroughfare
from Albany to Buffalo here divides into two branches, one leading di
rectly to Rochester, and the other pursuing a more circuitous route through
Field of Salt Vats, Syracuse.
The engraving shows a field of salt vats for the manufacture of coarse salt by solar evaporation. In
the distance is shown the pump-house from which the brine is conducted by pipes to the vats. The roofe
over the vats can be shoved off or on at pleasure, to arrest the rain or to expose the brine to the rays of the
sun. The vats, with their sheds, cover enough ground in the vicinity to make several moderate sized
farms — in all over five hundred acres.
Auburn and Geneva. The canal here is joined by the Oswego Canal, and
the railroad by lines to Oswego, to Binghampton, and other places. The
central position of Syracuse gives it great facilities for trade, and has made
Internal View of a Salt Manufactory, Syracuse.
The greatest part of the salt is manufactured by artificial heat, the brine being conducted into boilers
placed in parallel rows, as shown in the engraving, on top of an oven. These salt factories are rough
wooden structures about 70 feet long and 25 broad.
it a commercial station of importance. The great and leading business of
this place and its vicinity is the manufacture of salt, of which there are
about 5,000,000 bushels produced annually. Population is about 30,000.
440
NEW YORK.
Syracuse is the seat of the most extensive and valuable salt manufactories
in the United States. The land containing the saline springs is owned by
the state, and is leased, free of rent, to be used only for this manufacture.
The wells are dug and the water pumped at the expense of the state, and the
manufacturer pays a duty of one cent per bushel. Originally the duty was
twelve and a half cents, then for many years prior to 1846 it was six cents
per bushel. The salt water is conveyed in pipes from the springs or wells to
the works. The coarse salt is produced by solar evaporation; fine salt by
boiling, and other modes of applying artificial heat. The springs are pierced
through the alluvial and terminate on gravel. The wells generally used are
excavated about eighteen or twenty feet deep. "In one case a boring of 250
feet deep was made without finding fossil salt, but the strength of the brine
increased (as generally) with the depth of the well. From the strongest
spring, a cubic foot of water will afford fourteen pounds of salt." The amount
of capital invested in the manufacture of salt here is nearly three millions of
dollars.
The township of Salina, in which Syracuse was situated, was formed in
1809. In 1820, this place contained 3 stores, 2 taverns and 250 inhabitants.
In 1825, it was incorporated as a village, and in 1847 as a city, including the
contiguous village of Salina.
Grain Warehouses, Oswego.
The view, copied from that in Smith's Gazetteer, shows the month of Oswego Kiver at its entrace into
Lake Ontario. In front is seen the bridge connecting the two sides of the town. On the right stand a
cluster of grain warehouses, into which the grain is raised by elevators. Iii their rear Fort Oswego is
partly seen.
OSWEGO, a city, port of entry and serni-capital of Oswego county, is situated
on the south shore of Lake Ontario, and on both sides of the Oswego River,
and is 35 miles from Syracuse, 150 from Albany, 60 from Kingston, and 150,
in a straight line, from Toronto, Canada. It is the most populous and nour
ishing town belonging to the United States on Lake Ontario. The water
power afforded by the river and canal at this place is very great, and is used
in a variety of manufactories, among which are 18 extensive flouring mills,
which are capable of packing and grinding daily 10,000 barrels of flour — a
greater amount than is manufactured at 'any other place in America. The
peculiar commercial and manufacturing advantages of Oswego have made it
the great flour and grain market of Central New York and Northern New
England. The harbor formed by the mouth of the river is one of the best
on Lake Ontario, and has been improved by the United States government
with a substantial pier about 1,200 feet in length. The Canadian trade of
Oswego is nearly one half of the entire commerce of the United States with
NEW YORK.
441
Canada. The commerce of Oswego is very extensive, and is increasing with
astonishing rapidity. Being nearer to New York than any other lake port,
a large share of the produce of the West flows through it to the seaboard.
The salt of'Onondega is also mostly distributed through the Great West from
this place. In 1856, the registered tunnage was 46,467. Daily lines of
steamboats for the conveyance of passengers run between this port and the
lake ports of the United States and Canada. It connects with the New York
system of railroads and canals by lines diverging from Syracuse. Oswego is
defended by Fort Oswego, a strong fortification on the east side of the river,
near the Lake, on the site of the old fort of that name. Population about
20,000.
Fort Oswego was of
great military import
ance during the colonial
wars. A factory was es
tablished here in 1722
by the New York gov
ernment, and a fort erect-
- r*2\$/t$MJ^ — =I/j|j;f ed on the west side of the
OSWEGO IN 1755.
This view is partly copied from Smith's History of New York, pub
lished in London in 1757. Lake Ontario is iu the distance ; Governor
Shirley's encampment on the left.
river in 1727> and en.
larged in 1755, which,
with Fort Ontario, built
on an eminence on the
east in the latter year,
was on the 14th of Aug.,
1756, reduced by the
French under Montcalm.
The garrison then consisted of about 1,600 men under Col. Mercer. The
fort was invested by a force of about 5,000 men, when after some resistance
it honorably capitulated. The fortifications at that time consisted of three
forts, one at the west side of the river, and two on the east side, in an un
finished state. In May, 1814, it was taken by the British under similar cir
cumstances, but its commander, Col. Mitchell, made good his retreat. The
enemy demolished the fort, burned the barracks, destroyed the stores and
then left.
Ogdensburg, a port of entry in St. Lawrence county, on the right bank of
St. Lawrence River, is 200 miles north-west from Albany, 120 west from
Plattsburg, 63 north-east from Sackett's Harbor, and 130 from Montreal,
Canada. The Northern Railroad has its terminus at this place, and steamers
ply daily for the river and lake ports, making it a depot of great importance.
This flourishing place contains large depots, and other warehouses, three
banks, foundries, machine shops, etc. Great water power is found in the
falls of the Oswegatchie, which enters the St. Lawrence at this place. Pop
ulation is about 9,000.
The importance of this spot seems to have been discovered at an early day, the
French having built a fort here at a remote period. It was called Fort Presenta
tion, afterward named Oswegatchie. The British later had a garrison here. It,
appears to have been first settled in 1796, by Judge Ford, from New Jersey. This
place was taken by the British on the 21st of Feb., 1813, after a contest of about
an hour, in which the American riflemen and militia were obliged to retire before
superior numbers, with a loss of twenty men in killed and wounded. The British
loss is supposed to have been more than double that number.
The town of Prescott, Canada, lies on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence.
442 NEW YORK.
Windmill Point, at that place, is memorable as the spot where Van Schoultz, a na
tive of Poland, with a small body of men gallantly defended themselves against an
overpowering force of British an.d Canadians during the revolutionary movements
on the frontiers in 1837-8. Early in November, 1838, the Patriots (so called) se
cretly rallied in various places near the American line. About 200 of them crossed
over to Prescott and took possession of the Windmill and other large stone build
ings. On the 15th of November, after some severe fighting, about 2,000 British
troops advanced against the Patriots and compelled them to surrender. Van
Schoultz, Col. Abbey, of Watertown, Col. Woodruff, and some others, were put on
trial, condemned and executed.
Saclcetfs ffarbor, a port of entry in Jefferson county, is situated on the
south shore of Black River Bay, some 8 miles from Lake Ontario and about
170 W. N. W. from Albany, and has one of the best and most secure harbors
on the lake. It is connected by railroad with Watertown and Rome. This
place, now a small village, was an important naval and military station in the
war of 1812 with Great Britain. On the 28th of May, 1813, a sharp contest
took place here between the British and American forces, which resulted in
the defeat of the British, and afterward another on May 30, 1814, with the
same success. The expedition against Little York, U. C., in which Gen.
Pike was killed, embarked from here. In 1814, the United States govern
ment here commenced the erection of the Madison Barracks, which consist
of three extensive stone barracks, hospital, etc., affording accommodations for
2,000 troops, occupying a lot of about 40 acres, fronting the bay.
Watertown, borough, and capital of Jefferson county, is situated on Black
River, at the junction of the Watertown and Rome and the Potsdam and
Watertown Railroads, 145 miles W. N. W. from Albany, and 81 N. N. W.
from Utica. The Black River, in passing this place, descends 88 feet in one
mile, creating an immense water power, only a portion of which is used. The
factories erected are chiefly engaged in making cotton and woolen goods and
paper. There are extensive flouring, grist and saw mills, etc. This town
was first settled in March, 1800, by Henry Coffin, who originally came from
New Hampshire. Population about 8,000.
AUBURN, a beautiful city, and capital of Cayuga county, is at the outlet
of Owasco Lake and on the Rochester and Syracuse Railroad, 174 miles from
Albany, 318 from New York, and 147 east from Buffalo. The city is hand
somely built, and is adorned with beautiful gardens. Genesee, the principal
business street, has many lofty buildings of brick and limestone. It contains
a theological seminary, several flourishing academies, and about 11,000 in
habitants. Numerous manufactures are carried on in this place.
The Auburn State Prison has acquired much celebrity for its peculiar sys
tem of prison discipline. The building is a large, costly stone structure, in
closed by a wall which measures 500 feet on each side and about 30 feet high
The number of convicts has sometimes amounted to more than 600. They
are employed in manufacturing a variety of articles, the proceeds of which
are said to be generally sufficient to defray the expenses of the establishment.
The erection of the prison commenced in 1816. A small river or creek runs
at the south side of the prison, from which sufficient power is obtained
to work machinery within the walls. Religious instruction is given by the
chaplain, and Sunday schools are instituted in the prison. The younger por
tion of the convicts, if illiterate, are taught to read, write and cast accounts.
Auburn was first settled in 1793, by Col. John L. Hardenberg, and for
many years was called "Hardenberg's Corners." It became a post village in
1800, and in 1805 the county town, and received its present name from Dr.
NEW YORK.
443
Crosset. At this time the village consisted of but a few log dwellings, a
store or two, and a grist mill. In 1807, the building of the court house was
commenced, and the county courts removed to this place from Aurora. In
View in Auburn, at the Railroad Depot.
The above shows the appearance of a section of Auburn as it is entered upon the railroad from the oast.
The front of the State Prison is seen on the right, the Railroad Station on the left, the Court House and
American Hotel in the distance. In the extreme distance on the right, beyond the Prison, is the elevated
cemetery of Fort Hill, having the Logan monument in a grove on its summit.
1815, Auburn was incorporated a village, at which time it contained 1,000
inhabitants. From that period its improvement became more rapid and uniform.
The Auburn Theological Seminary
was established by the Synod of Ge
neva in 1819, and by the act of incor
poration in 1820 was placed under com
missioners chosen by the synods of
Genesee, Geneva and Oneida.
Fort Hill Cemetery, containing about
thirty acres, was established in 1851.
It includes the site of the principal In
dian village in this section, including
their ancient sacrificial mound and for
tification. This place, the highest land
in the vicinity, is beautifully laid out in
walks, trees and shrubbery. In the
center of the grounds is an obelisk
erected to the memory of Logan, the
celebrated Mingo chief, who is sup
posed to have been born here. On a
marble tablet inserted into the monu
ment are inscribed the closing words of
his celebrated speech : " Who is there to
mourn for Logan ! ' '
- The famous speech of Logan was deliv
ered at the close of Dunmore's war, in the year 1774. It was uttered in a private
interview with Gen. Gibson, who had been sent as an envoy to the Shawnee towns,
LOGAN MONUMENT.
444
NEW YORK.
near the site of Chillicothe, Ohio. After weeping as if his very heart would burst,
he told the pathetic story of his wrongs in those memorable words, which, as a
most touching effusion of mingled pride, courage and sorrow, will never be for
gotten.
ROCHESTER, city, capital of Monroe county, and port of entry, is built on
both sides of Genesee River, 7 miles from the entrance into Lake Ontario,
Western View in Rochester.
The view is taken in Buffalo-street, embracing a view of the ne%v Court House. Part of the Rochester
savings Bank building is seen on the risjht, the corner of Baker's block anfl the National Hotel on the
left. The large five story building in the extreme distance is used for extensive printing offices, etc.
by railroad, 252 miles west of Albany, 70 from Buffalo, and 7 from Char
lotte, at the mouth of Genesee River, the port of the city. It is the largest
city on the line of the Central Railroad and Erie Canal, and is the point of
divergence of the railroad lines to Buffalo and Niagara Falls. The city is
handsomely built, and is laid out with general regularity, having wide streets,
many of which are lined with shade trees. The site rests on a bed of lime
stone a few feet below the surface, and is much used for building purposes.
The city is chiefly remarkable for its extensive flour mills and the large trade
it enjoys both by the canal and railroads. The mills here have a capacity of
grinding 800,000 barrels of flour per annum, and the aggregate capital in
vested is $800,000. Flour barrels to the number of 240,000 are annually
made here. Since the decline of the wheat crop in Western New York, much
of the water power here is used for other purposes. The culture of fruit and
ornamental trees is now an important business of the city, and the nurseries
are among the most extensive in the country. It has many fine public build
ings, among which are the new Court House, Rochester University, the West
ern House of Refuge, the Arcade, the Baptist Theological Seminary, etc.
Rochester enjoys unlimited water power, the river falling, in the course of
three miles, 226 feet, with three perpendicular leaps of 96, 20 and 75 feet.
The Genesee Falls, within the city, descend perpendicularly 96 feet. Popu
lation is about 50,000.
NEW YORK. 445
Rochester is one of the most remarkable instances of a rapid and vigorous
growth as a city in the Atlantic states. In the year 1810, there was not
a house where Rochester now stands. In January, 1813, Pagan rites were
performed by the Senecas, by their "white dog sacrifice" on the spot where so
many Christian temples have since been erected.
The first allotments for a village were made in 1812, when Nathaniel Roch
ester, Charles H. Carroll and William Fitzhugh surveyed the hundred acre
tract for a settlement, under the name of "Rochester" after the name of the
senior proprietor. This tract was a "mill lot" bestowed by Phelps and Gor-
ham on a semi-savage, called Indian Allen, as a bonus for building mills to
grind corn and saw boards for the few settlers in this region at the time. The
mills decayed, there not being business enough to support them, and Allen
sold the property to Sir William Pulteney, whose estate then included a
large portion of the "Genesee country." The sale to Rochester, Fitzhugh
and Carroll took place in 1802.
Lockport, the capital of Niagara county, is a flourishing place on the Erie
Canal, and on the Rochester, Lockport and Niagara Falls Railroad, 20 miles
from Niagara Falls, 63 west of Rochester, 31 from Buffalo and 260 from Al
bany. Lockport derives its name from the vast lockage here' required to
overcome the descents necessary for the canal. The water here descends from
the level of Lake Erie to the Genesee level by ten double combined locks of
massive masonry in the best style of workmanship. Water in any desirable
quantity may be obtained from the Erie level and returned to the canal, 60
feet below, without any detriment to the navigation. The great water power
obtained at Lockport is extensively used for various manufacturing purposes,
among which are those of flour and lumber mills, cotton and woolen fabrics,
etc. In the construction of the canal, a barrier of solid limestone has been
excavated for about three miles. Large quarries of limestone and sandstone
flagging are worked. Population is about 13,000.
Niagara Falls, a post village of about 2,000 inhabitants, is in the imme
diate vicinity of the great cataract. Distant, by railroad, 22 miles from
Buffalo and 76 from Rochester.
Suspension Bridge is a post village of about 1,000 inhabitants, 2 miles be
low the Falls. At this point the International Railroad Suspension Bridge
has been thrown across the river to connect the Great Western Railroad of
Canada with the several railroads of New York. The bridge is a single span
of 800 feet in length, raised 230 feet above the river and supported by four
wire cables 9J inches in diameter, with an ultimate capacity of sustaining
10,000 tuns; it cost $400,000. The following description is from Dinsmore's
Rail Guide :
Niagara Falls, or, as the Indians term it, O-ni-au-ga-rah, "The Tliunder of Water," are
situated on the Niagara River, which commences at Lake Erie, and discharges the waters
of the great upper lakes, Superior, Michigan, Huron and Erie, which contain nearly half
the fresh water on the surface of the globe, into Lake Ontario. Niagara River, as it flows
from Lake Erie, is about three fourths of a mile wide, and has for three miles a rapid cur
rent, and then becomes smooth and placid till Avithin one mile of the Falls. In its course,
the river embraces numerous islands, among them Navy Island, famous during the Cana
dian rebellion, in 1837, having been for a time occupied' by the insurgents, headed by Wil
liam L. McKenzie. A mile above the Falls commence the Rapids, which have a descent
of about fifty-seven feet, forming white-crested breakers and a dashing and foaming tor
rent. The whole mighty river comes rushing over the brow of a hill, and as you look up
it seems coming down to overwhelm you, and so it rushes on, whirling, boiling, dancing,
sparkling along with a fearful impatience rather than overwhelming fury, rejoicing as if
escaped from bondage rather than raging in angry might — wildly, magnificently beautiful.
The hight of the fall is one hundred and sixty feet, and it is estimated that more than a
446
NEW YORK.
hundred millions of tuns of water per hour are precipitated into the confused cauldron be
neath, with a solemn and tremendous roar, ordinarily heard from five to twenty miles, Vmt
has in some instances been heard at Toronto, forty-five miles distant, and yet at the city
on the American shore, near the cataract, there is little to give notice of its awful prox
imity. The distance around the Horse Shoe Fall, on the Canada side, is one hundred and
forty-four rods; directly across is seventy-four rods. Goat Island divides the river into two
parts, and forms the American Fall, which, though sublime, inclines to the beautiful, while
the Canada Fall, though beautiful, is characterized by an overpowering sublimity. The
number of visitors at the falls is said to be about 40,000 annually, and the number is in
creasing. There are good hotels on both sides of the river, but the Clifton House, on the
Canada side, commands the best views; and the grounds adjoining being laid out with such
exquisite taste attract to this hotel visitors in search of either health or pleasure.
Niagara falls, from the American side.
In the immediate vicinity of the falls were fought the sanguinary battles
of Ohippewa and Niagara, in the second war with Great Britain. The battle
of Chippewa took place at the village of that name, on the Canada side, two
miles above the cataract, July 6, 1814. The history of these battles we
annex from Perkins' Late War :
Battle of Chivvewa — On the morning of the 4th, Gen. Scott advanced with his brigade and
NEW YORK.
447
J
corps of artillery, and took a position on the Chippewa plain, half a mile in front of the vil-
age, his right resting on the river and his front protected by a ravine. The British were en
camped in force at the village. In the evening Gen. Brown joined him with the reserve under
Gen. Ripley, and the artillery commanded by Maj.
Hindman. Gen. Porter arrived the next morning
with the New York and Pennsylvania volunteers,
and a number of Indians of the Six Nations.
Early in the morning of the 5th, the British com
menced a firing on the pickets. Captain Trott,
who commanded one of them, hastily retreated,
leaving one of his men wounded on the ground.
General Brown instantly ordered him to retire
from the army, and directed Captain Biddle to
assume the command of the picket, lead it back
to the ground, and bring oft' the wounded man,
which he accomplished without loss. At four in
the afternoon, General Porter advanced, taking
the woods in order to conceal his approach, and
in the hope of bringing their pickets and scouting
parties between his line of march and the Ameri
can camp. In half an hour his advance met the
light parties of the British in the woods on the
left. These were driven in, arid Porter, ad
vancing near Chippewa, met the whole British
force approaching in order of battle. General
Scott, with his brigade and Towser's artil
lery, met them on the plain, in front of the
American encampment, and was directly en
gaged in close action with the main body. Gen
eral Porter's command now gave way and fled
in every direction, by which Scott's left flank
was entirely uncovered. Captain Harris, with
his dragoons, was ordered to stop the fugitives
the ravine and form them in front of the
MAP OF NIAGARA RIVER AND VICINITY.
at
camp. The reserve was now ordered up, and
lef
General Ripley passed to the woods in left of
the line to gain the rear of the enemy, but before this was effected General Scott
had compelled the British to retire. Their whole line now fell back, and were eagerly
pursued by the Americans. As soon as they reached the sloping ground descending to
ward the village, their lines broke and they regained their works in disorder. The Amer
ican troops pursued until within reach of the guns from the works, when they desisted and
returned to their camp. The British left two hundred dead on the ground, ninety four
wounded, beside those in the early part of the action who were removed back to the camp,
and fourteen prisoners. The American loss was sixty killed, and two hundred and sixty-
eight wounded and missing.*
The battle of Niagara, Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane, as it has variously
been designated, took place on the 25th of the same month, on an obscure
road called Lundy's Lane, about a mile westward from the Niagara cataract.
*A British writer, in describing this battle, says: "Numerous as were the battles of Na
poleon, and brave as were his soldiers, I do not believe that even he, the greatest warrior
that ever lived, can produce an instance of a contest so well maintained, or, in proportion to
the numbers engaged, so bloody as that of Chippewa. The important fact is that we have
got an enemy who fights as bravely as ourselves."
The distinguishing feature of this conflict was the charge of the bayonet by Scott's brigade,
in which the British were defeated by this, their own especial weapon. Mansfield, in his com
ments on the action at Chippewa, says: "A charge, in military phrase, is said to be made
when either party stops firing, throws bayonets forward, and advances to the shock, whether
the enemy receive it or fly. An actual crossing of bayonets, therefore, is not indispensable
to the idea of a charge. To suppose it is, is a mistake. Another popular error is, that the
parties come up to the shock in parallel lines. Such a case has rarely, if ever, occurred.
Each commander always seeks by maneuvering to gain the oblique position, and, if possi
ble, to outflank his enemy. At Chippewa, only a few files crossed bayonets at a time, and, from
the force of position, there were two or three effective American to one British bayonet, at each
successive step. As the enemy advanced, he necessarily became more and more outflanked.
448 NEW YORK.
Since the retreat of the enemy from Chippewa they had received reinforce
ments of troops from Lord Wellington's army in Spain, and on the night of
the battle encamped on a hill, with the design of attacking the Americans
the next morning.
Battle of Niagara. — On his arrival at the Niagara cataract, General Scott learned that
the British were in force directly in his front, separated only by a narrow piece of wood. Hav
ing dispatched this intelligence to General Brown, he advanced upon the enemy, and the
action commenced at six o'clock in the afternoon. Although General Ripley with the
second brigade, Major Hindman with the corps of artillery, and General Porter with the
volunteers, pressed forward with ardor, it was an hour before they could be brought up to
his support; during this time his brigade alone sustained the conflict. General Scott had
pressed through the wood and engaged the British on the Queenstown Road, with the
9th, llth and 12th regiments, the 25th having been thrown on the right. The fresh troops
under General Ripley having arrived, now advanced to relieve General Scott, whose ex
hausted brigade formed a reserve in the rear. The British artillery had taken post on a
commanding eminence, at the head of Lundy's Lane, supported by a line of infantry, out
of the reach of the American batteries. This was the key of the whole position; from
hence they poured a most deadly fire on the American ranks. It became necessary either
to leave the ground or to carry this post and seize the hight. The latter desperate task
was assigned to Colonel Miller. On receiving the order from General Brown, he calmly
surveyed the position, and answered, "I WILL TRY, SIR," which expression was afterward
the motto of his regiment. The first regiment, under the command of Colonel Kit-hols,
was ordered to menace the British infantry and support Colonel Miller in the attack. This
corps, after a discharge or two, gave way and left him without support. Without regard
ing this occurrence, Colonel Miller advanced coolly and steadily to his object, amid a tre
mendous fire, and, at the point of the bayonet, carried the artillery and the hight. The
guns were immediately turned upon the enemy; General Ripley now brought up the 23d
regiment to the support of Colonel Miller; the first regiment was rallied and brought into
line, and the British were driven from the hill. At this time Major Jessup, with the 25th
regiment, was engaged in a most obstinate conflict with all the British that remained on
the field. He had succeeded in turning the British left flank. Captain Ketchum, with a
detachment of this regiment, succeeded in gaining the rear of the British lines, at the point
where Generals Drummond and Riall, with their suites, had taken their stations, and
made them all prisoners. The British officers, mistaking this detachment for a company
of their own men, were ordering them to press on to the combat, when Captain Ketchum
stepped forward and coolly observed that he had the honor to command at that time, and
immediately conducted the officers and their suites into the rear of the American lines;
General Drummond, in the confusion of the scene, made his escape. The British rallied
under the hill, and made a desprate attempt to regain their artillery and drive the Ameri
cans from their position, but without success. A second and third attempt was made with
the like result. General Scott was engaged in repelling these attacks, and though with
his shoulder fractured and a severe wound in the side, continued at the head of his column,
endeavoring to turn the enemy's right flank. The volunteers under General Porter, during
the last charge of the British, precipitated themselves upon their lines, broke them, and
took a large number of prisoners. General Brown, during the whole action, was at the
most exposed points, directing and animating his troops. He received a severe wound on
the thigh, and in the side, and would have given the command to General Scott, but on in
quiring found that he was severely wounded. He continued at the head of his troops until
the last effort of the British was repulsed, when loss of blood obliged him to retire; he then
consigned the command to General Ripley. At twelve o'clock both parties retired from
the field to their respective encampments, fatigued and satiated with slaughter. The battle
continued, with but little intermission, from six in the afternoon until twelve at night.
After Colonel Miller had taken the battery, and driven the British from the hights, and
General Riall and suite had been taken, there was a short cessation, and the enemy ap
peared to be about yielding the ground, when reinforcements arrived to their aid, and the
battle was renewed with redoubled fury for another space of two hours; much of this time
This enabled each wing from the first to double some files on the enemy's rear. The flanks
go assailed rapidly crumbled away. The process was short. In a few minutes the whole
British army broke and fled."
When Scott ordered the charge, he called out to M'Neil's battalion, which had not a re
cruit in it, being composed entirely of men drilled up to the very severest discipline, '' The
enemy say that we are good at lony shot but can not stand the cold iron ! 1 call upon the Eleventh
instantly to give the lie to that slander I CHARGE ! "
NEW YORK. 449
the combatants were within a few yards of each other, and several times officers were
found commanding enemy platoons. Captain Spencer, aid to General Brown, was dis
patched with orders to one of the regiments ; when about to deliver them, he sud
denly found himself in contact with a British corps; with great coolness, and a firm air,
he inquired what regiment is this? On being answered, the Royal Scots, he immediately
replied, Royal Scots, remain as you are! The commandant of the corps, supposing the or
ders came from his commanding general, immediately hiilted his regiment, and Captain
Spencer rode off. Colonel Miller's achievement, in storming the battery, was of the most
brilliant and hazardous nature; it was decisive of the events of the battle, and entitled him
and his corps to the highest applause; most of the officers engaged in that enterprise were
killed or wounded. The battle was fought to the west of and within half a mile of the
Niagara cataract. The thunder of the cannon, the roaring of the falls, the incessant dis
charge of musketry, the groans of the dying and wounded during the six hours in which
the parties were engaged in close combat, hightened by the circumstance of its being in the
night, afforded such a scene as is rarely to be met with in the history of human slaughter.
The evening was calm, and the moon shone with luster when not enveloped in clouds of
smoke from the firing of the contending armies. Considering the numbers engaged, few
contests have ever been more sanguinary.
This was unquestionably the most severe and bloody battle that was fought during the
war. One fifth of the combatants on each side were put hors de combat. On the American
side, the commanding general and the second in command were severely wounded. On
the British, their commander-in-chief was wounded, and for a few minutes a prisoner, and
the second in command severely wounded and captured. The total loss of the Americans
in killed, wounded and missing was 860; of the British, 878.
Schlosser's Landing is on the American side, about two miles from the cat
aract, and not far from the site of old Fort Schlosser. In the Canada rebel
lion of 1837, Navy Island, in the river opposite this point, became a rendez
vous for "the Patriots" in December of that year. At this time an American
steamboat, the Caroline, was burnt at Schlosser's Landing, at night, by a
party of British from the Canada side. The warlike movements on the fron
tier had drawn many from curiosity to this spot, and as the only tavern at
Schlosser's was filled, several persons observing the steamer had sought and
obtained lodgings on it. The British boarded it, with the cry "Cut them
down! give no quarter!" No arms were on board; no attack was expected,
and no resistance made. One man was shot dead on the wharf and twelve were
missing, either killed, or burnt and sunk with the boat. The boat was towed
out in the river, set on fire and then left to float over the cataract.
Fort Niagara is at the junction of Niagara River with Lake Ontario. It
is a spot of much historical note. Under the French, it was a little city of
itself, and for a long period the greatest place south of Montreal or west of
Albany. The fortifications originally covered about eight acres.
"In 1679, a small spot was inclosed by palisades, by M. De Salle, an officer in the ser
vice of France. In 1725, the fort was built. In 1759, it was taken by the British, under
Sir William Johnson. The capture has been ascribed to treachery, though there is not
known to be any existing authority to prove the charge. In 1796, "it was surreudered to
the United States. On the 19th of December, 1813, it was again taken by the British, by-
surprise, and in March, 1815, again surrendered to the Americans. This old fort is as
much noted for enormity and crime as for any good ever derived from it by the nation in
occupation. While in the hands of the French, there is no doubt of its having been at
times used as a prison; its close and impregnable dungeons, where light was not admitted,
and where remained for many years after, clear traces, and a part of the ready instruments
for execution or for murder. During the American revolution, it was the headquarters of
all that was barbarous, unrelenting and cruel. There were congregated the leaders and
chiefs of those bands of murderers and miscreants that carried death and destruction into
the remote American settlements.
Quecnstown Nights, seven miles north of Niagara Falls, on the Canada
side, is the spot where was fought the disastrous battle of that name, on the
20th of October, 1812, by which the Americans lost 1,000 men in killed,
wounded and missing — principally missing. This action, while it covered
450
NEW YORK.
the American militia with disgrace, conferred honor upon the small body of
regular troops engaged, who fought with great desperation. Winfield Scott
View from the Light-House, Buffalo.
The engraving shows the appearance of part of Buffalo as viewed from the Light-House. Part of the
breakwater is seen back from the Light-house on the left. The main entrance of the harbor is between
these structures. The Niagara Railroad train passes near the shore on the left.
then a lieutenant-colonel, was taken prisoner. A tall monument stands on
the spot to the memory of Gen. Sir James Brock, who was among the slain.
Southern mew of the Custom- House and Post- Office, Buffalo.
The new Custom-House and Post-Offlce is at the corner of Washington and Seneca-streets. The steeple
of St. John's and the Washington-street Baptist Church are seen on the left; the Universalist Church
stands a few feet from that of the Baptist.
BUFFALO, city, port of entry and capital of Erie county, is situated at the
east end of Niagara River. It is 338 miles by railroad, and by the canal 364
NEW YORK 451
miles from Albany, 195 from Cleveland, 290 from Detroit, 72 from Toronto,
U. C., and 597 E. by N. from Chicago. Its business facilities are very great,
being at the western extremity of the Erie Canal, at the terminus of important
railroads, and at the eastern termination of the navigation of the great lakes.
It is regularly built, partly on low ground intersected in the southern part by
Buffalo creek. The site rises gently from the water's edge, and at the dis
tance of two miles becomes an extended plain fifty feet above the level of the
harbor. Main-street, two miles long, 120 feet wide, is the finest in the city,
having lofty buildings on each side. There are three public squares, all of
which are planted with shade and ornamental trees. The harbor is formed
by Buffalo creek, and is protected from storms by a breastwork and a pier
which extends 1,500 feet from the south side of the mouth of the creek;
upon the end of the pier is a light-house forty feet high. The commerce of
Buffalo is immensely large, far surpassing all other ports on the great lakes.
Ship building is largely carried on, and its manufactures are extensive and
varied,
Buffalo is distinguished for her public schools, which are under the direc
tion of the City Council, and open to all classes free of charge. Among the
benevolent institutions are the Orphan Asylum, the City Hospital, the Hos
pital of the Sisters of Charity, and the Female Orphan Asylum. It has forty
churches and in 1860, 81,541 inhabitants.
Buffalo was originally laid out in 1801, by the Holland Land Company. From the time
of the foundation of the place to 1812 it increased slowly. In that year it became a mili
tary post, and in December, 1813, every building save two were burnt by the British and
Indians. Many of the inhabitants were taken prisoners to Montreal. The place was soon
rebuilt, and by 1817 it contained 100 houses, some of which were large and elegant. It
was incorporated as a village in 1822, and as a city in 1832.
The Indian chief Red Jacket, so celebrated for his wonderful oratory, lived on the Sen
eca Reservation, about four miles from Buffalo. A church was erected here in 1829, at
the expense of the Indians. R ed Jacket was buried by the church, and his cabin was about
eighty rods distant. He remained with the Pagan part of the Senecas, while his wife and
children embraced Christianity. His wife, who would attend the religious meetings of the
Christian party, was opposed by her husband on this account. On his death-bed, he ex
pressed his sorrow that he had persecuted her — that she was right and he wrong, and as
his dying advice said to her, "Persevere in your religion, it is the right way."
Fort Erie, nearly opposite Buffalo, on the Canada side, at the outlet of Ni
agara River from Lake Erie, was an important post in the war of 1812.
In the Niagara campaign of 1814, during the months of. August and September, the
British, under Gen. Drummond, invested the port for about fifty days. On the night of the
15th of August, while the fort was under the command of Gen". Gaines, the enemy at
tempted to carry the works by storm. They were most gallantly met and repeatedly driven
back, but one of their columns had gained some of the outworks, when an explosion of a
small stone building, containing a quantity of cartridges, ensued, which threw them into
contusion, and they were repulsed with a loss of 905 men. The American loss was but 84.
On the morning of the 17th of September, Gen. Brown, having recovered from wounds re
ceived at Chippewa, and having assumed the command, made a sortie from the fort, and
after a desperate conflict carried the British batteries and spiked their guns. So great was
the loss of the enemy that four days after they abandoned the siege as hopeless. Thus
ended the Niagara campaign, one of the most brilliant in American history.
Geneva and Canandaigua are two beautiful villages in this part of the state.
Geneva is at the north end of Seneca Lake, on the Auburn and Rochester
Railroad, 50 miles E. S. E. of Rochester. It is the seat of Geneva College,
Hobart Free College, and a Medical Institute liberally endowed by the state.
Canandaigua is on the Canandaigua Lake and line of the Central Railroad,
88 miles from Buffalo. It has a male and also a female academy of high re
pute. The beauty of its private residences, with their elegant surrounding
grounds, has long given this place a pleasing reputation. Canandaigua was
29
452
NEW YORK.
laid out by Oliver Phelps and Nathaniel Gorham, who opened here, in 1789,
the first land office in western New York for the sale of lands. These gen
tlemen had the year previous purchased of Massachusetts its pre-emption
right to the lands now comprised in the counties of Ontario, Genesee, Wy
oming, Niagara, Cattaraugus, Chatauque and Alleghany. It was at the Can-
andaigua Academy, founded by these gentlemen, that Hon. Stephen A. Doug
las received his education.
Northern view of the Railroad Bridge at Portage.
One of the falls of the Genesee River, in passing through the gorge at this place, is soen under the bridge.
The Genesee Valley Canal appears passing at a high elevation on the left. This bridge is 800 feet long, 230
feet high, and has in it the timber of 240 acres of woodland.
Genesee Falls, formerly Portageville, Wyoming county, is a village of 600
inhabitants, on the Genesee River, about 50 miles E. S. E. from Buffalo. The
Buffalo and New York Railroad crosses the Genesee river, a mile from the
village, over a bridge 800 feet long, 230 feet high, 75 feet wide at base, and
25 feet at top, containing 1,062,000 feet of timber and 108,862 Ibs. in iron
bolts, etc. It is regarded as one of the greatest specimens of engineering
skill in America; it was eighteen months in building, and cost over $140,000.
The river here falls about 300 feet in two miles, principally in three perpen
dicular descents, and in some places is bordered by almost perpendicular pre
cipices 400 feet high, affording bold, striking and picturesque scenery.
Elmira, the capital of Chemung county, is on the New York and Erie
NEW YORK.
458
Railroad, 274 miles from New York and 275 from Philadelphia. It is con
nected by canals and railroads with the interior of Pennsylvania and Seneca
Lake, 20 miles distant. Since the construction of the railroads, Elmira has
rapidly increased. Ten million feet of boards and plank are exported annu
ally from this place. A bridge, seven hundred feet in length, crosses the
Chemung River. Population about 9,000.
This section of country became known to the whites in the revolutionary war. When
Gen. Sullivan was penetrating into the Indian country, in Aug., 1779, the Indians and
tories under Brandt, Butler and Johnson made a stand at a bend of the river near the site
of the town. An action ensued, called the " Battle of the Chemung," in which the enemy
were defeated by the superior numbers and skill of the Americans.
BINGIIAMPTON, the capital of Broome county, is at the junction of the
Chenango and Susquehanna, where the former is crossed by the New York
and Erie Railroad, 215 miles from New York and 80 from Syracuse, by
railroad. It is connected with Utica by the Chenango Canal, and also by
railroad with the coal regions in Pennsylvania, and has a large trade with
the neighboring towns: it is surrounded by a rich agricultural country, and
exports a large amount of lumber. Population about 10,000.
Binghampton was formerly called Chenango Point, and derived its present name from
William Bingham, a munificent benefactor of the town in its infant state. He was pro
prietor of a large
on both sides of the
eluding the site of
Bingham was a na-
ca.me to this country
le went into the
ji Philadelphia, and
congress for some
London in 1804.
ried the celebrated
Henry and Alexan-
whom was afterward
burton. The New
ate Asylum, design-
treatment and re-
is situated here. It
The building is on
site east of the town
NEW YORK STATE INEBRIATE ASYLVM.
Situated in Bin^hampton, and the earliest institution
of the kind ever established.
patent of land lying
Susquehanna, in-
the village. Mr.
tiveof England, and
when a young man;
mercantile business
was a member of
years. He died in
His daughters mar-
London bankers,
der Baring, one of
created Lord Ash-
York State Inebri-
ed for the medical
straintof inebriates,
was founded in 1858.
a beautiful elevated
upon a farm of 250
acres: it is three hundred and sixty-five feet long, eighty-two feet broad, built of stone and
brick, in the Tudor castellated style of architecture; and presents an imposing appearance.
This institution owes its origin mainly to the energy of Dr. J. Edward Turner,
and is the first of the kind ever established in the world. It is founded on the
theory that inebriety, like insanity, is a disease, requiring like that, for its cure,
medical and moral treatment. The want of such an institution has long been felt.
" The late Dr. S. B. Woodward, of the Worcester Insane Asylum, in an able essay
on the subject of establishing asylums for the inebriate, says : ' My connection
with the insane asylum for twelve years, convinces me that the importance of an
inebriate asylum has not its equal among the hospitals of the day; and if such an
institution could be founded, it would be a great public blessing, and nine out of
ten of the inebriates who could be brought under its control and treatment would
be radically cured.'
Among the petitioners to the legislature, for an appropriation to this Asylum,
were more than sixty leading judges of the courts ; more than six hundred lean
ing lawyers ; more than five hundred leading clergymen; more than fifteen hun
dred leading physicians ; more than two thousand leading merchants ; and inoro
than three thousand leading farmers and mechanics of the state. The petitioners
to the legislature, for an appropriation for this institution, and the subscribers to
its fund, represented more than fifty per cent, of all the property of this great and
prosperous state."
454 NEW YORK.
The first white man who made a permanent settlement in what is claimed for the village
vicinity was Capt. Joseph Leonard, originally from Plymouth, Mass. He first emigrated
to Wyoming, Pa., from whence he removed to this place in 1787, with his wife and two
children.
Ithaca, the capital of Tompkins county, is situated upward of a mile south
of the head of Cayuga Lake, partially upon the flats and upon the hills, rising
to the hight of four or five hundred feet, which inclose it on all sides but the
north. It is distant from Albany 163 miles, and 40 south-east from Geneva,
and is regularly laid out and handsomely built. It is connected by canal
and the Cayuga and Susquehanna Railroad with Owego, on the New York
and Erie Railroad. Fall creek, which enters the lake at this place, furnishes
great water power, and is used for various manufacturing purposes. Popu
lation about 7,000.
Dunkirk, at the western termination of the New York and Erie Railroad,
461 miles from New York, is the most important port on Lake Erie between
"Buffalo and Cleveland. Population about 6,000.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES.
Peter Stuyvesant, the last and most celebrated of the Dutch governors of New York,
began his administration in 1647. He exerted all his energies to prevent the encroach
ments of the English and the Swedes on the territory under his command. In 1655, he
obliged the Swedes at New Castle, Delaware Bay, to swear allegiance to the Dutch au
thority. But in 1664, Col. Nichols, with an English fleet, arrived at New York, then
called New Amsterdam, and compelled Gov. Stuyvesant and the whole colony to sur
render to their invaders. He, however, remained in the country until his death. ' He was
buried within the walls of the second built Reformed Dutch Church, now occupied by St.
Mark's Church, which has on its outside wall the original stone designating the place of
his interment, with his rank and titles, thus:
In this vault lies buried PKTRUS STUYVESAXT, late captain-general and commander-in-
chief of Amsterdam, in New Netherland, now called New York and the Dutch West India
Islands. Died in August, A. D. 1682, aged eighty years.
Sir William Johnson was born in Ireland about the year 1714. He was the nephew of
Sir Peter Warren, the naval commander who distinguished himself at the siege of Louis-
burg. Sir Peter sent young Johnson to superintend his large estate which he had on the
Mohawk. To fulfill the duties of his commission, Johnson learned the language of the In
dians and cultivated their acquaintance. His situation at Johnstown, between Albany and
Oswego, gave him great opportunities for trade. By a course of sagacious measures, he
obtained an influence over the Indians greater than was held by any other white man of
his time. In 1755, he commanded the Provincial troops of New York, marched against
Crown Point and gained a victory over the French under Baron Dieskau, for which he re
ceived from the House of Commons £5,000 sterling, and the title of baronet from the king.
Sir William died suddenly at Johnson Hall, 44 miles west of Albany, July 11, 1774, aged
60 years.
Col. Joseph Brandt, the celebrated Mohawk chieftain, resided at Canajoharie Castle, the
central of the three castles of the Mohawks, in their native country. He is supposed to
have been born about the year 1742, on the banks of the Ohio, while his parents were on a
hunting expedition in that part of the country. In 1761, he was sent by Sir Wm. Johnson
to Dartmouth College, then under the charge of the Rev. Dr. Wheelock. He translated
into the Mohawk language the Gospel of St. Mark, and assisted the Rev. Mr. Stewart, the
Episcopal missionary, in translating a number of religious works into the Indian tongue.
Brandt being a neighbor and under the influence of the Johnson family, took up arms
against the Americans in the revolutionary contest. After the war, he removed with his
nation to Canada. He died, upward of thirty years since, in Brautfoixl, Upper Canada.
George Clinton, son of Col. Charles Clinton, was born in Orange county, N. Y., July 15,
1739. At an early age he was distinguished for his activity and enterprise. In 1775, he
was appointed a delegate to the continental congress, and was present at and in favor of
the Declaration of Independence, but having been appointed a brigadier- general in the
army, was obliged to leave congress immediately after his vote was given, in consequence
of which his name does not appear among the signers. In 1777, he was elected the first
jjovernox under the new constitution, and continued in that office for eighteen years. In
NEW YORK.
455
J&lm,, <?Lw
1804, he was vice-president of the United States, and died in that station at Washington,
April 20, 1812.
Philip Livingston, a signer of the decla-
. ration of independence, was born at Alba-
y//_»i ny, in 1716. He graduated at Yale Col-
•^l^?^^77!-- — >legein 1737. He settled in New York,
/f and devoted himself to mercantile pursuits.
// In 1775, the Royalists had gained such an
ascendancy that several counties of New
York took the responsibility of sending delegates to the continental congress, among whom
were Philip Livingston and his nephew, Robert R. Livingston. Mr. Livingston was elected
a member of the first senate of the state of New York. In 1778, he again took his seat in
congress, though in a delicate state of health, occasioned by dropsy in the chest. He died
suddenly, when absent from home, June 12, 1778.
Francis Lewis, a signer of the declaration
of independence, was born in Wales, and was
educated partly in Scotland and partly at
Westminster. When of age, he came to New
York, and commenced business as a mer
chant. For a time he held a military office
in the French and Indian war. He was an
active committee man in the continental con
gress until 1778. He suffered greatly for his
adherence to the American cause. His property on Long Island was destroyed, his wife
confined in a close prison for several months, which probably caused her death. Mr. Lewis
died at the age of nearly 90 years.
... Lewis Morris, a signer of the declara
tion of independence, was born at Mor-
risania, N. Y., in 1726, and was edu
cated at Yale College. Being the eld
est son, he inherited his father's mano
rial estate, which placed him in affluent
circumstances. As a delegate to the continental congress, he voted for independence when
that act seemed to be in opposition to all his worldly interests. After the war, he returned
to his estate, which had been ravaged by the enemy, and spent the remainder of his life
in agricultural pursuits. He died January, 1798, in the 72d year of his age.
William Floyd, a signer of the declaration of Inde
pendence, was born on Long Island, N. Y., in 1734.
While attending to his public duties, he suffered greatly
in the destruction of his property and the exile of his
family from their home on account of the ravages of
the enemy. In 1784, Gen. Floyd purchased some wild
lands in the valley of the Mohawk, to which he removed
in 1803. He died in August, in the year 1821, at the age
of 87.
De Witt Clinton, sou of James Clinton, a brigadier-general in the army of the revolu
tion, was born in Orange county, N. Y ., in 1769. He was chosen to many important offices
in his native state, and was elected governor in 1817. His name, genius and his services
are stamped upon many monuments of public munificence and utility, the most useful of
which is the Erie Canal. He died suddenly in February, 1828.
John Jay, L. L. D., was born in the city of New York in 1745. He was a member of
the first American congress in 1774, and was president of that body in 1776. He was ap
pointed minister plenipotentiary to Spain. He was one of the commissioners to negotiate
peace with Great Britain, and signed the definitive treaty of peace at Paris, September 3,
1783. He was appointed chief justice of the United States by Washington in 1789. In
1794, he was appointed minister plenipotentiary to Great Britain, and succeeded in negoti
ating the treaty which bears his name. He was governor of the state of New York from
1795 to 1801, when he retired to his farm in Bedford, N. Y., and died in 1829, aged 84.
Philip Schuyler was born in Albany in 1735. In 1785, he was appointed major-general
in the United States army, and commander of the forces destined for the invasion of Can
ada. Ill health obliged him to relinquish the command to Montgomery. When Bur-
goyne's invasion began, he made great exertions to oppose his progress, when he was un
justly superseded in the chief command by Gates, but he subsequently rendered important
services to his country. After the war, he was a member of congress, and twice -a senator
456 NEW YORK.
He died in 1804, aged 73 years, leaving a reputation for superior mental powers, joined to
great integrity, amiability and enterprise. His daughter married Alexander Hamilton.
Goucerneur Morris was born at Morrisiana, N. Y., in 1752, educated at King's (now
Columbia) College, and began the practice of the law. In the revolution, he was one of
the most active^ and esteemed members of Congress. He was a member, from Pennsylva
nia, of the convention which formed the federal constitution, and from 1792 to 1796 was
U. S. minister to France. He afterward represented New York in the national senate.
He died in 1816, aged 64 years. He was a fine orator and writer. A sketch of his life and
selections from his papers was published by Jared Sparks.
Alexander Hamilton, the statesman, soldier and patriot, was born on the island of Nevis,
West Indies, in 1757, having a Scotch father and a French mother. He was educated at
King's College, where, in 1775, when only a boy of seventeen, he electrified patriot gath
erings in New York by his oratory. Soon after he raised a company and entered the army
as a captain of artillery. His extraordinary talents attracted the attention of Washington,
who made him his aid-de-camp and confidential secretary, with the rank of lieutenant-
colonel. He was a member of the convention which framed the federal constitution, and,
with James Madison and John Jay, wrote the series of articles in favor of that instrument,
known as the Federalist, more than half the whole number being from his pen. As secre
tary of the U. S. treasury under Washington, his consummate skill as a financier was ex
hibited. In 1804, at the age of 47, he was killed in a duel with Aaron Burr.
Silas Wright was born in Amherst, Mass., in 1795, educated at Middlebury College, and
in 1819 settled as a lawyer in Canton, St. Lawrence county. He first entered congress as
member of the lower house, in 1827. From 1833 until 1847, when he was elected governor
of New York, he was in the U. S. senate. Three years later he died. He was offered by
President Tyler a seat upon the bench of the supreme court of the U. S., and by other presi
dents, seats in their cabinets and missions abroad, all of which he refused. He was a man
of great strength of mind — in his disposition, socially as well as politically, a democrat.
This endeared him to the masses, andliad he lived, he would in all probability have been
president of the country, for no man of his party was so universally popular.
NEW JEKSEY.
THE precise date of the first European settlement within the limits of New
Jersey, does not distinctly appear. It is believed that the first settlement
commenced at Bergen, about the year
1618, by a number of Danes, or Nor
wegians, who accompanied the Dutch
colonists that came over and first set
tled New York. As early as 1614, a
redoubt was thrown up on the right
bank of Hudson River, probably at
the present Jersey City Point. In
1623, the Dutch West India Com
pany dispatched a ship under the
command of Capt. May, with settlers
and articles of trade. May entered
Delaware Bay, and gave his own
name to its northern cape, which it
still retains [Cape May]. He pro
ceeded up Delaware lliver and erected
ARMS OF NEW JEESEY. a fortification a few miles below Cam-
MoTTo-Liberty and Prosperity. ^en, which was called Fort Nassau.
This may be considered as the first attempt to establish a settlement on the
eastern shore of the Delaware.
The West India Company offered great advantages to others who would
engage to make settlements. They even granted charters to individuals,
giving them the exclusive right to large portions of land, subject only to the
Indian claim. A number of persons took advantage of this privilege, and
sent over agents to select and purchase tracts. The possessors of these
claims thus acquired, formed an association among themselves, having in
view the settlement of these lands, and the prosecution of trade. They dis
patched a vessel under the command of De Vries, who left the Texel, Dec.
12, 1630, and arrived in the Delaware in the course of the winter. It is
stated that he found none of the Europeans who preceded him, and that
Fort Nassau had fallen into the hands of the Indians.
De Vries having erected a fort and landed the new settlers, returned to
Holland. During his absence, a difficulty arose with one of the native
tribes, which at length terminated in the massacre of every one of the colo
nists. DC Vries returned shortly afterward with a new company, and while
he mourned the loss of his former companions, he narrowly escaped a simi
lar fate. Pressed for provisions, he was compelled to conceal his resent
ment, and continue intercourse with the natives. Under the pretense of
furnishing him with provisions, the natives directed him to proceed up the
river and enter a stream now called Cooper's Creek. He was saved by the
(457)
458 NEW JERSEY.
kindness of an Indian woman, who informed him that treachery was in
tended, and that the entire crew of a vessel had been already destroyed in
that place. * * * Disheartened by repeated disasters, the Dutch aban
doned the country ; and for some years not a single European was left up
on the shores of the Delaware.
In 1626, a company was formed in Sweden, under the patronage of Gus-
tavus Adolphus, for the purpose of planting a colony in America. The next
year a number of Swedes and Finns came over, and purchased of the natives
the land on both sides of the River Delaware, but made their first settlement
on its western bank, near Christiana Creek. About the year 1640, the
English began a plantation on its eastern bank. The Swedes, in concert
with the Dutch, who then possessed New York, drove them out of the coun
try. On the spot from which the English had been driven, the Swedes
built a fort, and by this means gained the command of the river, claimed and
exercised authority over all vessels that entered it, even those of the Dutch,
their late associates.
The Swedes continued in possession of the country on both sides of the
Delaware, until the year 1655. During this year, Stuyvesant, the Dutch
governor of New Netherlands, having obtained assistance from Holland,
sailed with a strong force to the Delaware. The Swedes having no adequate
means of resistance, were compelled to give up their posts, and submit to
their conquerors. The officers and principal people were made prisoners,
and carried to New Amsterdam [New York]. The Dutch were now in pos
session of the territory, comprising, at this time, the states of New York,
Delaware, and New Jersey.
The claim of the English, founded on prior discovery, to the territory now oc
cupied by the Dutch, was never abandoned. An expedition was fitted out, which
arrived, before New Amsterdam, the latter part of the year 1664. Stuyvesant, the
governor, though a brave soldier, was, on account of the defenseless state of the
place, obliged to surrender. Sir Robert Carr, with two frigates, was sent to com
pel the submission of the colony on the Delaware, " which he effected with the ex
penditure of two barrels of powder and 20 shot."
Charles If, in 1664, granted to his brother, the duke of York, a large extent of
territory extending from Nova Scotia to the east side of Delaware Bay. The duke
of York, by deed of release, dated June 24, 1664, sold and confirmed to Lord Berke
ley and Sir George Carteret, their heirs and assigns, all that tract of land to the
westward of Long Island and Manhattan; between the ocean and the Hudson on
the east, and the Delaware on the west, from Cape May to the north branch of the
Delaware, in 41° and 40//, of latitude, by the name of New Cesariu, or New Jersey.
The name, it is said, was given in compliment to Carteret, who had defended the
Island of Jersey against the Long Parliament during the civil wars.
The two proprietors formed a constitution, which granted liberty of conscience
and equal rights, and appointed Philip Carteret governor. In 1665. he came over
and fixed the seat of government at Elizabethtown. He also purchased land of
the Indians, and sent agents into New England to invite settlers from that quar
ter. The terms offered were so favorable, that many were induced to remove.
A few years after Gov. Carteret began his administration ; the settlements were
disturbed by domestic disputes. Some of the inhabitants who had purchased
lands of the Indians, before they were granted away by the duke of York, refused
to pay rent to the new proprietors. This, with some other causes, produced, in
1672, an insurrection among the people. Carteret was obliged to leave the
province, and seek redress in England, and his officers were imprisoned, and their
estates confiscated. The people now prevailed on James Carteret, a weak and dis
solute natural son of the governor, to assume the government. The father, when
in England, obtained from the proprietors such favorable concessions and prom
ises, as quieted the people, and induced them again to submit to his authority.
NEW JERSEY. 459
In 1673, war having taken place with Holland, a small squadron was sent over
by the Dutch, which arrived at Staten Island in July. As the fleet advanced
toward New York, Capt. Manning, who had charge of the town, refused to make
any defense, and surrendered the place, unconditionally, to the invaders. He was
afterward tried by a court martial, and plead guilty to all the charges preferred.
His sentence was as extraordinary as his conduct; it was that "though he de
served death, yet because he had, since the surrender, been in England, and had
seen the king and the duke, it was adjudged that his sword should be broke over
his head, in public, before the city hall ; and himself rendered unworthy of wear
ing a sword, and of serving his majesty for the future, in any public trust in the
government"
The Dutch dominion so suddenly restored, existed but a short time, as it was
surrendered to the English the next year. Some doubts having arisen as to the
validity of the duke of York's title, on account of the Dutch conquest, he deemed
it prudent to procure a new patent, including the same territory as the former.
In 1674, Maj. Edmund Andross, so well known by his tyrannical usurpations, came
over as governor (under the duke of York) of the province of New York. An-
dross also claimed jurisdiction over the Jerseys, insisting that the conquest by the
Dutch divested the proprietors of all their rights. He imprisoned those magis
trates who refused to submit to his authority, and imposed a duty on all imported
goods. The inhabitants complained to the duke, and commissioners were appointed,
who decided that the duties imposed by Andross. were illegal and oppressive.
Lord Berkeley having become involved in debt, he offered his share of the
province of New Jersey for sale. His right, or interest, was purchased by John
Fenwiek and Edward Byllinge, members of the Society of Friends. The tract
thus purchased was afterward known as West New Jersey. Byllinge, the princi
pal proprietor, having been brought into difficulty by losses in trade, his property
was entrusted to William Perm, Gawen Lawrie, and Nicholas Lucas (all Friends
or Quakers), to be used for the benefit of his creditors. These trustees sold a con
siderable number of shares of the undivided moiety to different purchasers, who
thereby became proprietaries in common with them. These proprietors agreed
upon a form of government, comprising many of the provisions of the instrument
formed by Berkeley and Carteret, with others originating with themselves. The
first permanent English settlers in West Jersey, came over with Fenwick and made
a settlement at Salem, in 1675.
Sir George Carteret, sole proprietor of East Jersey, dying in 1679, by will, or
dered that province to be sold to pay his debts; which was accordingly done by
his widow and executors, by indenture of lease and release, bearing date 1681—82,
to William Penn and eleven others, who were thence called the " twelve proprie
tors.1' The plan and proposals of these proprietors became quite popular, 'parti
cularly among the Scotch, many of whom came over and settled in East Jersey.
The twelve proprietors did not long hold the province to themselves, but each took
a partner. These, with the other twelve, were called the twenty-four proprietors :
to them the duke of 'York made a fresh grant of East New Jersey, bearing date
14th of March, 1682. The first governor under the new administration, was Robt.
Barclay, a Scotch gentleman, who had adopted the sentiments of the Friends or
Quakers, and was the author of the celebrated " Apology " in their defense.
At this period there were supposed to be about 5,000 inhabitants in East Jersey.
Philip Carteret continued governor until about the year 1681. The sessions of the
assembly were mostly held at Elizabethtown, occasionally at Woodbridge, and
once or more at Middletown and Piscataway. The division line between East and
West Jcr>sey, appears to have been a line from the south-east of Little Egg Harbor,
on Barnagat Creek, to a creek a little below Ancocus Creek on the Delaware
River, thence about 35 miles straight course along Delaware River, up to 41° 4CK
north latitude.
The settlers in both West Jersey and Pennsylvania, about the year 1687, were
put to difficulties on account of food ; their crops having in great part foiled.
Several families had already exhausted their stock, and were forced to subsist on
what was spared by such of their neighbors as were better provided. These were
few in proportion to the mouths to be filled. Some on the rivers had lived weeks
460 NEW JERSEY.
on fish ; others were forced to put up with herbs ; but unexpectedly to many ar
rived a vessel from New England to Philadelphia, laden with corn, which proved
an agreeable supply. The settlers were not afterward exposed to the like necessity
for want of food.
The year 1701 was a memorable era in the history of New Jersey, on account
of the disturbances and confusions that violently agitated the minds of the people.
Each province had many and different proprietors, who promoted separate and in
tervening schemes and interests. To promote particular purposes, one party would
have the choice and management of the governor, while another refused to obey
any officers but those of their own nomination. Discord prevailed; the proprietors
weary of contending with each other, and with the people drew up an instrument
whereby they surrendered their right of government to the crown, which was ac
cepted by Queen Anne on the 17th of April 1702.
Immediately on the transfer of the right of government to the crown, Queen
Anne re-united East and West Jersey into one province, and entrusted its govern
ment, as well as that of New York, to her kinsman, Lord Cornbury, who arrived
in New Jersey in 1703. He continued in the office of governor of New York and
New Jersey until 1708; when the complaints of the people were such that the
queen was compelled to revoke his commission. These provinces continued for
several years to be ruled by the same governor, but each chose a separate assem
bly. In the summer of 1738, the inhabitants, by petition to the king, desired that
they might in future have a separate governor. Their request was granted, and
Lewis Morris, Esq.s was the first that was appointed.
"William Franklin, the son of Dr. Benjamin Franklin, was the last of the
royal governors ; he succeeded Grov. Hardy, in 1763. This year was also
distinguished by a treaty of peace between Great Britain and France, by
which Canada was ceded to the British king, and the colonies secured from
the ravages of French and Indian wars, which had continued for more than
half a century. When Mr. Pitt, the celebrated British minister, called upon
the colonial government to make an effort to destroy the French power in
America, "the assembly of New Jersey, instead of raising reluctantly five
hundred men, doubled that number, and, to fill the ranks in season, offered a
bounty of twelve pounds per man, increased the pay of the officers, and voted
a sum of £50,000 for their maintenance. They at the same session directed
barracks to be built at Burlington, Trenton, New Brunswick, Amboy, and
Elizabethtown, competent each for the accommodation of three hundred men.
.... This complement of one thousand men New Jersey kept up during
the years 1758, 1759, and 1760; and in the years 1761 and 1762 furnished
600 men. besides in the latter year a company of 64 men and officers, espe
cially for garrison duty; for which she incurred an average expense of
£40,000 per annum."
At tine commencement of the revolutionary period, New Jersey was among
the foremost of her sister colonies in resisting the aggressions of British
tyranny. Early in July, 1774, the inhabitants of the several counties of
New Jersey assembled in their county towns, and passed resolutions strongly
disapproving the acts of parliament — closing the port of Boston, etc. They
nominated deputies to meet in convention for the purpose of electing dele
gates to the general congress about to meet in Philadelphia. The New
Jersey delegates reported the proceedings of congress to the assembly, Jan.
11, 1775, by whom they were unanimously approved : "such members as
were Quakers excepting only to such parts as seemed to wear an appearance,
or might have a tendency to force, as inconsistent with their religious prin
ciples."
The joint action of the colonies was opposed by their royal governors, who
threw every obstacle in their power to prevent its accomplishment. Gov.
NEW JERSEY. 46}
Franklin refused to summon the assembly, notwithstanding the petitions of
the people ; therefore the first delegates to congress were elected by a con
vention. The second provincial convention met at Trenton, May 23, 1775,
and directed that one or more companies of eighty should be formed in each
township, or corporation; and, in order to raise necessary funds, imposed a
tax of £10,000. The provincial congress of New Jersey reassembled Aug.
5, 1775, and directed that 54 companies, each of 64 minute-men, be or
ganized. These troops were formed into ten battalions: in Bergen, Essex,
Middlesex, Monmouth, Somerset, Morris, Sussex, Hunterdon, and Burling
ton, one each; in Gloucester and Salem, one; while in the counties of Cum
berland and Cape May were independent light infantry and rangers. But
the chief measure of this congress was the perpetuation of the authority
which they had assumed; they therefore resolved and directed that, during
the continuance of the controversy between Great Britain and America, the
inhabitants qualified to vote should yearly choose deputies to the provincial
congress, who now took upon themselves the management of the affairs of
the colony, relating to their rights and liberties.
Gov. Franklin convened the legislature Nov. 16, 1775. He made an ad
dress, the prominent objects of which seem to have been to obtain from the
assembly an assurance of personal safety, and a disavowal of all intention to
proclaim independence. On the 6th of December he prorogued the house
till Jan. 3, 1776, but it never reassembled; and thus terminated the provin
cial legislature of New Jersey.
The provincial congress of New Jersey convened at Burlington, June 10,
1776. At this period the general congress of the United Colonies was in
session in Philadelphia, and, on the memorable fourth of July, declared
themselves independent of Great Britain. On the 18th of the same month
the provincial congress assumed the title of the "State Convention of New
Jersey." During the progress of these events, Gov. Franklin was compelled
to stand by an almost idle spectator, as the torrent of public opinion was too
strong for him to attempt to turn its course. He however, by proclamation
of the 30th of May, summoned the house, in the name of the king, to meet
on the 20th of June, The provincial congress, seeing the mischief of the
measure, resolved, by a vote of thirty-five to eleven, that the proclamation
of William Franklin, late governor, ought not to be obeyed ; and, as he had
shown himself to be an enemy to the liberties of his country, his person
should be secured. This was accordingly done; and, by an order of the
continental congress, on the 25th of June, the deposed governor was sent,
under guard, to Gov. Trumbull of Connecticut, who was desired to take
his parole, and in case he refused to take it, to treat him agreeably to the
resolutions of congress respecting prisoners. This request was immediately
complied with. On his release he sailed to England, where he received a
pension for his losses.
The first legislature of independent New Jersey convened at Princeton,
Aug. 27, 1776, and on the 21st of the same month William Livingston, Esq.,
was, in joint ballot, chosen governor of the state; and, being annually re-
elected, was continued in office for fourteen years. During his administra
tion the state was the theater of war for several years. In the revolutionary
struggle, her losses, both of men and property, in proportion to the popula
tion and wealth of the state, was greater than any other of the thirteen
states. When Gen. Washington was retreating through the Jerseys, almost
forsaken, her militia were at all times obedient to his orders ; and for a con-
462
NEW JERSEY.
siderable time composed the strength of his army. There is hardly a town
in the state, that lay in the progress of the British army, that was not sig
nalized by some enterprise or exploit. At Trenton the enemy received a
check, which may be said, with justice, to have turned the tide of war.
Park, or Common, Newark.
This beautiful ground is situated in the northern part of Broad street: the market building, with its
tower, is seen on the right.
In the summer of 1778, Sir Henry Clinton retreated, with the British
army, from Philadelphia, through New Jersey to New York. The battle of
Monmouth signalizes this retreat. The military services performed by the
t soldiers of New Jersey, and the sufferings of her people, during the revolu
tionary war, entitle her to the gratitude of her sister states. By her sacri
fices of blood and treasure, in resisting oppression, she is entitled to stand in
the foremost rank among those states which struggled for American freedom.
New Jersey is bounded N. by the state of New York; E. by the Atlantic
Ocean ; S. by Delaware Bay, and W. by the state of Pennsylvania. It lies
between 38° 55', and 41° 24' N. lat., and extends from 73° 59' to 75° 29',
W. long. Its extreme length, from N. to S., is about 160 miles; its average
breadth about 50 miles, and its area, 8,320 miles. Population, in 1850,
489,319: in 1860, 660,093.
The face of New Jersey, at the north, is rather mountainous and broken,
being crossed by portions of the Blue Ridge and elevated ranges. From
this point to the central part of the state, the land is gradually depressed
and becomes undulating. At the south it is still lower and more level.
The soil, in the hilly region, furnishes many excellent tracts for grazing ; in
the center it is quite fertile; while toward the Atlantic Coast it is sandy and
MEW JEKSEY.
463
naturally sterile ; and the surface, in many places, covered with immense
forests of pine. The latter district, however, by manual toil, has been made
uncommonly productive, the nearness of the two great markets, New York
and Philadelphia, having stimulated the industry and agricultural skill of
the inhabitants. Wheat, and all the grains peculiar to the middle states ;
potatoes, all descriptions of garden vegetables, and fruits of the finest sorts,
as peaches, pears, plumbs, cherries, strawberries, etc., are raised in great pro
fusion.
NEWARK, the most populous and flourishing place in New Jersey, is
situated on the great railroad route between New York and Philadelphia, on
the W. side of Passaic River, three miles from its entrance into Newark Bay,
nine miles from the city of New York, and 49 from Trenton. The city
stands on a fertile plain, with a rising ground on the west. It is regularly
laid out, with broad and straight streets, many of which are bordered by
lofty and beautiful shade trees. It has two large and pleasant public
squares, which are adorned with majestic elms. Broad street, passing
through the city from N. to S., is an extensive and beautiful avenue. The
elevated ground on the west affords fine situatidns for residences — many of
which are elegant buildings, showing evidences of wealth and refinement.
Population, in 1830, 10,950; in 1840, 17,290; in 1850, 38,894; in 1860,
72.055.
Newark is well built; it contains about 30 churches, several of which are
fine buildings. The court house, in the western part of the city, is an ele
gant structure in the Egyptian style of architecture, built of brown free
stone. Among the literary institutions of the place, are the Mechanics' As
sociation for literary and scientific improvement, which has a literary and
philosophical apparatus; the Mercantile and Literary Association, which
sustains a course of public lectures : the Newark Library Association has a
well selected library, open to the public on the most liberal terms; and
the New Jersey Historical Society. The Newark Academy was established
in 1792, and was distinguished, for many years, as one of the largest and
most prominent institutions in the country.
Newark is very extensively engaged in manufactures, a great part of which
are sent to distant markets. About the year 1676, measures were taken to
invite mechanics to this place. The first shoemaker appears to have been
induced to come into the settlement from Elizabethtown, having been for
mally admitted a member of the community, on condition of supplying it
with shoes. The manufacture of boots, shoes, saddles, and various other
fabrics of leather, has ever been an important branch of business. Other
manufactures in great variety and abundance, are produced ; the most im
portant are carriages, hats and caps, cutlery and jewelry.
The town of Newark was settled in the month of May, 1666, by emigrants from
Connecticut. Gov. Carteret, soon after his arrival in New Jersey, sent agents in
to New England to publish the " concessions," or terms of the proprietors. These
were _so liberal that agents were dispatched from Guilford, Branford, and Mil-
ford, in Connecticut, to view the country and learn the terms of the purchase.
They returned with a favorable report; especially of the district "beyond the
marshes lying to the north from Elizabethtown. ' These agents, Capt. Itobert
Treat. John Curtis, Jasper Orane, and John Treat, were sent back to make ar
rangements for an immediate settlement. The preliminaries being arranged, 30
families, from the above named towns and New Haven, embarked under the gui-
464 NEW JERSEY.
dance of their agents, and after a lorfg and tedious passage, arrived in the Passaic
Kiver early in May.
Although Gov. Carteret agreed to clear the plantations they might select, from
all incumbrances, yet when they began to land their goods, they were warned off
the ground by the Hackensack Indians, who claimed the land as their own. Capt.
Treat and his company were now disposed to return, but by the persuasions of
the governor and other gentlemen, they were induced to remain and treat with
the Indians. A bargain was effected, and a purchase of a township was made.
The limits of the original township of Newark, comprised the present townships
of Springfield, Livingston, Orange, Bloomfield, and Caldwell. The price of the
purchase was £130 New England currency; 12 Indian blankets, and 12 Indian
guns.
At the first distribution of land, each man took by lot six acres as a homestead.
Seven individuals selected for the purpose, assessed on each settler his portion of
the general purchase money. The lands were eventually divided into three
ranges ; each range into lots, and parceled by lottery : first setting apart certain
portions called " tradesmen s lots" one of which was to be given to the first of
every trade, who should settle permanently in the place. In 1667, the Eev. Abra
ham Pierson, the first minister, commenced his official duties here. Robert Treat,
and Jasper Crane, were chosen the first magistrates in 1668. In 1676, the first
school was established; the selectmen "agreed with Mr. John Catlin, to in
struct their children and servants in as much English reading, writing, and arith
metic as he could teach." Mr. Catlin was also chosen attorney for the town, and
appears to have been the first lawyer settled here.
During the years 1745 '46 and 47, a great excitement existed in the vicinity,
arising out of contentions between the settlers and the English proprietors con
cerning the title to the lands. The settlers held under their Indian title, and re
fused to recognize any other. In 1745 and '46. there were two great riots at New
ark, in each of which the jail was broken open by large mobs, and the prisoners
held by suits in favor of the English proprietors set at liberty. The same parties
liberated other prisoners for the same cause, at Elizabethtown and Somerville.
At the commencement of the revolutionary war, the town was much divided up
on the questions agitating the country ; and on the Declaration of Independence
by the state, several families, among whom was Mr. Brown, pastor of the Episco
pal Church, who had ministered from its foundation, joined the royalists in New
York. From its vicinage to that stronghold of the enemy, the town suffered great
ly by the visitations of regular troops and marauders. On the 22d of Nov., 1776,
Gen. Washington entered Newark on his retreat through New Jersey, having
crossed the Passaic by the Aquackanonck bridge, with a force of 3,500, compris
ing Beal's, Heard' s and part of Irvine's brigades. Here the troops remained en
camped until the morning of the 28th, when Lord Cornwallis entered the town
from New York, and the American forces retreated toward New Brunswick and
the Delaware. Each army was thus for a season quartered upon the inhabitants
of the town, and the British commander, in pursuing the Americans, left a strong
guard behind, which remained here until after his discomfiture at Trenton.
Foraging parties, and bands of plunderers in the garb of the enemy, kept the
neighborhood in continual alarm through several years. On the night of the 25th
of Jan., 1780, a regiment of 500 men, commanded by Col. Lumm, came from New
York, following the river on the ice, and burned the academy, then standing on
the upper green. This was a stone building, two stories high, with apartments for
the teacher. On the same night another British party, unknown to the first, fired
the Presbyterian Church at Elizabethtown, the light from which alarmed the in
cendiaries at Newark, and caused their hasty retreat. They carried with them
Joseph Hedden, Esq., an active whig, who had zealously opposed their previous
depredations; dragging him from a sick-bed, and compelling him to follow, with
no other than his night clothing. The party returned by the route by which they
came ; and a soldier, more humane than his fellows, gave Mr. H. a blanket, a
short time before they reached Paulus Hook. At this place Mr. H. was confined
in a sugar house, where he perished in a few days, in consequence of his suffer
ings that night.
NEW JERSEY.
465
About this period, and during the war, the average population of the town was
less than 1,000. In 1777, it contained 141 dwelling houses.
The present public bridge over the Passaic, was originally built about the year
1792. Previous to the revolution, and up to this period, the business on the river
was chiefly transacted at Lowe and Camp's Dock, now known as the stone'dock,
some hundred yards north of the old bridge. The first public road to New York
communicated with Market street, and led across the upland and meadow by a
ferry near the bay. On the construction of the present causeway, the " old ferry
road" was abandoned.
State House at Trenton.
TRENTON, the capital of New Jersey, is situated on the E. side of Dela
ware River, at the head of sloop navigation ; 55 miles S. W. from New York,
30 N. E. from Philadelphia, and 166 from Washington. The localities of
Mill Hill, Bloomsbury, and Lamberton, comprised in the borough of South
Trenton, and extending about a mile down the river, may, in a general de
scription of Trenton, be considered as a part of the city. The borough is
divided from the city proper by the Assunpink, a small stream which here
passes into the Delaware. The city has many handsome public and private
buildings. It contains a state house, the state library, state prison, state lu
natic asylum, city hall, a lyceum, about 20 churches, and a population, in
1860, of 17,206.
The county buildings are situated in South Trenton, also the state prison,
about three fourths of a mile below the central part of the city, a few rods
from the Delaware and Raritan Canal, and the railroad from Jersey City to
Camden. The walls of the prison, 20 feet high and three feet thick, inclose
an area of four acres. The entrance is through the main building, in which
reside the family of the warden and his assistants, to an observatory in the
rear, from which diverge, at an angle of 45 degrees on each side, the two
corridors in which are the cells for the prisoners. At the foot of the falls
or rapids, and at about half a mile from the central part of the city, is the
beautiful covered bridge across the Delaware, which is considered a fine spe
cimen of bridge architecture of wood, 1,100 feet in length ; it was commenced
466 NEW JERSEY.
in 1804, and finished in 1806, at an expense of $180,000. It withstood the
great flood of 1841 unharmed, while the more frail structures of a later day
were swept away. It is crossed by the Philadelphia and Trenton Railroad.
The first settlements, made about the year 1679, at the Falls of the Delaware,
by the Friends, were on both sides of the river. Those on the New Jersey side
were on the low land at the mouth of the Assunpink, and on the plains. About
the year 1700, the settlements were commenced by persons who purchased the
lands from the original proprietors, or by those who had taken up the lands. From
this period, the settlement of the township was increased by emigrants from Long
Island, from East Jersey, and other parts. In 1714, Mahlon Stacy sold his plant
ation on both sides of the Assunpink, to Col. Win. Trent, of Philadelphia. The
lot on which the court house was built, it is said, was given to the county by Mr.
Trent, about the year 1720, and in compliment to him for the gift the place was
called Trenton, or, as it was first written, Trent s town. In 1790, Trenton was
made the seat of government of New Jersey, and in 1792, it was constituted a city.
BATTLE OF TRENTON.
Trenton will ever be memorable as the place where, at the gloomiest period of
the revolution, the tide of war turned in favor of the Americans, Dec. 26, 1776.
The following is Washington's account of the battle, communicated by him to
Congress, in a letter dated Head Quarters, at Newtown, Dec. 27, 1776 :
I have the pleasure of congratulating you upon the success of an enterprise which I had
formed against a detachment of the enemy lying in Trenton, and which was executed yes
terday morning.
The evening of the 25th, I ordered the troops intended for this service to parade back of
McKonkey's Ferry [now Taylorsville], that they might begin to pass as soon as it grew
dark — imagining that we should be able to throw them all over, with the necessary artille
ry, by 12 o'clock, and that we might easily arrive at Trenton by five in the morning, the
distance being about nine miles. But the quantity of ice made that night impeded the
passage of the boats so much that it was three o'clock before the artillery could all be
got over, and nearly four before the troops took up their line of march.
I formed my detachment into two divisions ; one to march up the lower river road, the
other by the upper or Pennington road. As the divisions had nearly the same distance
to march, I ordered each of them, immediately upon forcing the out-guards, to push di
rectly into the town, that they might charge the enemy before they had time to form. The
upper division arrived at the enemy's advanced post exactly at eight o'clock ; and in three
minutes after, I found, from the fire on the lower road, that that division had also got up.
The out-guards made but a small opposition ; though, for their numbers, they behaved
very well, keeping up a constant retreating fire from behind houses.
We presently saw their main body formed ; but, from their motions, they seemed unde
termined how to act. Being hard pressed by our troops, who had already got possession of
part of their artillery, they attempted to file off by a road on their right, leading to Prince
ton ; but, perceiving their intention, I threw a body of troops in their way, which imme
diately checked them. Finding, from our disposition, that they were surrounded, and they
must inevitably be cut to pieces if they made any further resistance, they agreed to lay
down their arms. The number that submitted in this manner was 23 officers and 886 men.
Col. Rohl, the commanding officer, and seven others, were found wounded in the town. I
do not know exactly how many they had killed ; but I fancy not above twenty or thirty ;
as they never made any regular stand. Our loss is very trifling indeed ; only two officers,
and one or two privates wounded.
I find that the detachment of the enemy consisted of the three Hessian regiments of Land-
spatch, Kniphausen, and Rohl, amounting to about 1,500 men, and a troop of British light-
horse ; but immediately upon the beginning of the attack, all those who were not killed or
taken pushed directly down the road toward Bordentown. These likewise would have fall
en into our hands, could my plan completely have been carried into execution. Gen. Ew-
ing was to have crossed before day, at Trenton ferry, and taken possession of the bridge
leading to the town ; but the quantity of ice was so great, that though he did everything
in his power to effect it, he could not cross. This difficulty also hindered Gen. Cadwalla-
der from crossing with the Pennsylvania militia from Bristol. He got part of his foot over,
but, finding it impossible to embark his artillery, he was obliged to desist. I am fully con
fident that, could the troops under Gens. Ewing and Cadwallader have passed the river, I
should have been enabled, with their assistance, to have driven the enemy from all their
NEW JERSEY.
posts below Trenton ; but the numbers I had with me being inferior to theirs below, and a
strong battalion of light infantry being at Princeton, above me, I thought it most pru
dent to return the same evening, with the prisoners and the artillery we had taken. We
found no stores of any consequence in the town.
Injustice to the officers and men, I must add, that their behavior upon this occasion re
flects the highest honor upon them. The difficulty of passing the river in a very severe
night, and their march through a violent storm of hail and snow, did not in the least abate
their ardor ; but, when they came to the charge, each seemed to vie with the other hi
pressing forward ; and were I to give a preference to any particular corps, I should do in
justice to the other.
The annexed account of the battle of Trenton is from the Pennsylvania
Journal of 1781 :
About eight o'clock in the morning, an attack was made upon the piquet guard of the
enemy. It was commanded by a youth of eighteen, who fell in his retreat to the main
body. At half past eight the town was nearly surrounded, and all the avenues to it were
seized, except the one left for Gen. Ewing to occupy. An accident here liked to have de
prived the American army of the object of their enterprise. The commanding officer of
one division sent word to Gen. Washington, just before they reached the town, that his
ammunition had been wet by a shower of rain that had fallen that morning, and desired to
know what he must do. Washington sent him word to " advance with fixed bayonets."
This laconic answer inspired the division with the firmness and courage of their leader.
The whole body now moved onward, in sight of the enemy. An awful silence reigned
through every platoon. Each soldier stepped as if he carried the liberty of his country
upon his single musket. The moment was a critical one. The attack was begun with
artillery, under command of Col. (afterward Gen.) Knox. The infantry supported the ar
tillery with firmness. The enemy were thrown into confusion in every quarter. One reg
iment attempted to form, in an orchard, but were soon forced to fall back upon their main
body. A company of them entered a stone house, which they defended with a field piece,
judiciously posted in the entry. Capt. (afterward Col.) Washington advanced to dislodge
them, with a field piece ; but finding his men exposed to a close and steady fire, he sud
denly leaped from them, rushed into the house, seized the officer who had command of the
gun, and claimed him prisoner. His men followed him, and the whole company were made
prisoners. The captain received a ball in his hand, in entering the house. In the mean
while, victory declared itself everywhere in favor of the American arms.
The Philadelphia light-horse distinguished themselves upon this occasion by their bravery.
They were the more admired for their conduct, as it was the first time they had ever been
in action. An anecdote is mentioned of Capt. Samuel Morris, of this corps, which, though
it discovers his inexperience of war, did honor to his humanity. In advancing toward the
town, he came up to the lieutenant, who had commanded the piquet guard. He lay mor
tally wounded, and weltering in his blood, in the great road. The captain was touched
with the sight, and called to Gen. Greene to know if anything could be done for him. The
general bade him push on, and not notice him. The captain was as much agitated with
the order as he was affected with the scene before him ; and it was not until after the for
tunate events of the morning were over, that he was convinced his sympathy for a bleed
ing enemy was ill-timed.
After having refreshed themselves, and rested a few hours in Trenton, the American
army returned, with their prisoners and other trophies of victory, to the Pennsylvania side
of the river, by the same way they came, with the loss only of three men, who perished by
cold in recrossing the river — an event not to be wondered at, when we consider that many
of them were half naked, and most of them barefooted.
BATTLE OF ASSUNPINK OR TRENTON BRIDGE.
It has been a matter of surprise to many, that the Battle of Ammpink, or
Trenton bridge, should be passed over so lightly by most historians of the rev
olution. On the result of this action, apparently, in a great degree, was sus
pended the fate of American independence. It is probable that more than
twice the number of British troops were killed, than either at the battles of
Trenton or Princeton. The account of the action here annexed, is from an
officer present in the engagement. It was published in the Connecticut
Journal, Jan. 22, 1777 :
"Immediately after the taking of the Hessians at Trenton, on the 26th ult, our
army retreated over the Delaware, and remained there for several days, and then
30
468 NEW JERSEY.
returned and took possession of Trenton, where they remained quiet until Thurs
day, the 2d inst., at which time, the enemy having collected a large force at Prince
ton, marched down in a body of 4,000 or 5,000, to attack our people at Trenton.
Through Trenton there runs a small river, over which there is a small bridge.
General Washington, aware of the enemy's approach, drew his army (about equal
to the enemy) over that bridge, in order to have the advantage of the said river,
and of the higher ground on the farther side. Not long before sunset, the enemy
marched into Trenton; and after reconnoitering our situation, drew up in solid
column in order to force the aforesaid bridge, which they attempted to do with
great vigor at three several times, and were as often broken by our artillery and
obliged to retreat and give over the attempt, after suffering great loss, supposed at
least one hundred and fifty killed. By this time night came on, and General Wash
ington ordered fires to be kindled and everything disposed of for the night. But
after all was quiet he ordered a silent retreat, drew off his army to the right,
marched all night in a round-about road, and next morning arrived with his army
at Princeton. All this was done without any knowledge of the enemy, who, in the
morning, were in the utmost confusion — not knowing which way our army had
gone until the firing at Princeton gave them information."
Washington, when on his way to New York to be inaugurated President,
met with a peculiar and cordial welcome at Trenton. In addition to the usual
martial display, the ladies of the place erected a rich rural arch over the As-
sunpink, with appropriate devices, and bearing this inscription :
THE DEFENDER OF THE MOTHERS
WILL BE THE
PROTECTOR OF THE DAUGHTERS.
The General was met here by a company of matrons leading their daugh
ters dressed in white, with baskets of flowers, and singing these lines, writ
ten for the occasion by Gov. Howell :
Welcome, mighty Chief, once more, Virgins fair and matrons grave —
Welcome to this grateful shore ; Those thy conquering arms did save —
Now no mercenary foe Build for thee triumphal bowers :
Aims again the fatal blow, Strew, ye fair, his way with flowers,
Aims at THEE the fatal blow. Strew your Hero's way with flowers ;
and at the last line the flowers were strewed before him. On passing the
arch, as the choir began the song, the general turned his horse's head toward
them, took of his hat, and listened, it is said, with the deepest emotion.
The village of Princeton is situated on an elevated ridge of land, which
rises with a long and easy ascent, and commands to the east a prospect of
great extent. The village has a population of about 4,000, and is 40 miles
from Philadelphia, 50 from New York, and 10 from Trenton. The Dela
ware and Raritan Canal, and the railroad from New York to Philadelphia,
pass about a mile S. E. of the college buildings.
The "College of New Jersey" was first incorporated in 1746, and has ever
maintained its rank among the first literary institutions of this country. It
owes its origin to a difference of views in the Presbyterian churches which
arose at the period of Mr. Whitfield's labors in this country. In 1741, the
synod of Philadelphia, which represented the whole Presbyterian body,
formed into two divisions — the synod of Philadelphia and the synod of New
York. The synod of Philadelphia opposed, while that of New York favored,
Mr. Whitfield. The synod of New York being charged with encouraging
NEW JERSEY.
469
enthusiasm, and of introducing ignorant men into the ministry, took meas
ures to remove the evil. Rev. Jonathan Dickinson, of Elizabethtown, was
the most prominent person in the efforts which resulted in the establishment
of the College of New Jersey. The college was commenced in Elizabeth -
town, and Mr. Dickinson chosen its first president. The number of students
was about 20. President Dickinson died in 1747, and the students were re
moved to Newark and placed under the care of Rev. Aaron Burr. In 1757.
the institution having about 70 scholars, removed to Princeton, where the
first college edifice was erected.
The principal edifice of the College of New Jersey is called Nassau Hall.
and was erected in 1757. It is 176 feet long, 50 wide, and 4 stories high.
(JTOV. Belcher was much interested in the college, and made a "generous do-
View of the College of Neic Jersey, at Princeton.
Nassau Hall is the prominent building shown in the engraving. The Museum, Chemical and Philo
sophical Hall, and the Chapel, are seen on the left ; part of the President's house on the right.
nation of his library of books, with other valuable ornaments," to it. In con
sequence of this, the trustees requested that the collegiate building might be
named after him. This honor his excellency declined, and requested they
would name it NASSAU HALL, to " express the honor we retain." says the
governor, "in this remote part of the globe, to the immortal memory of the
glorious King William the Third, who was a branch of the illustrious house
of NASSAU, and who, under God, was the great deliverer of the British na
tion from those two monstrous furies, popery and slavery." etc. The trustees.
after receiving the governor's letter, resolved, "that in all time to come" it
should be called NASSAU HALL.
Nassau Hall was occupied as barracks by the British troops previous to
the battle of Princeton. In 1802 a fire consumed the interior of the build
ing. On being rebuilt, the walls, which were not materially injured, remained
as before, and the whole interior of the house, except the chapel, was con
verted into lodging rooms. At the time of the battle of Princeton, the room
470 NEW JERSEY.
in Nassau Hall called the chapel was adorned with a portrait of George II ;
the Americans, in dislodging the British troops from the building, fired a
cannon-shot which passed through the walls and destroyed the picture. The
frame, however, still remained, in which is now a portrait of Washington,
painted by the elder Peale. In 1855 Nassau Hall was again burnt, but was
rebuilt on the same foundation.
The Theological Seminary, in the village of Princeton, is a highly eminent
institution. It was founded by the general assembly of the Presbyterian
Church in the United States, and is under their control and patronage. The
edifice was commenced in 1813; it is of stone, 150 feet long, 50 feet wide,
and 4 stories high. It is unconnected with the college. The course of study
is extended through three years. Students of all Christian denominations
are admitted to a full participation of its benefits on equal terms.
BATTLE OF PRINCETON.
The situation of the American army, after the action at Assunpink or Trenton
bridge, was extremely critical. If Washington maintained his position on the
south side of the Assun
pink, it was certain that
he would be attacked by
a superior force, with the
probable result of the
destruction of his little
army. Fires having been
lighted, immediately af
ter dark a council of war
was convened. Wash
ington, by the advice of
Gen. St. Clair, Col. .Reed,
and others, " formed the
bold and judicious de-
NORTHERN VIEW OF PRINCETON BATTLE GROUND. sign of abandoning the
The spot where Gen. Mercer fell is designated by two small figures Delaware, and marching
standing in the distance ; the house of Win. Clark, where he died, ap- silently in the nio'ht by
pears in the background to the right. a cjrcuitous route? along
the left flank of the British army, into their rear at Princeton, where he knew
they could not be very strong. After beating them there, he proposed to make a
rapid movement to Brunswick, where their baggage and principal magazines lay
under a weak guard."
The more effectually to mask the movement (says Gen. Wilkinson, in his me
moirs), Washington ordered the guards to be doubled, a strong fatigue party to be
set at work on an intrenchment across the road near the mill, within distinct hear
ing of the enemy, the baggage to be sent to Burlington, the troops to be silently
filed off by detachments, and the neighboring fences to be used as fuel by the
guards to keep up blazing fires until toward day, when they had orders to retire.
The night, though cloudless, was dark, and, though calm, exceedingly cold, and
the movement was so cautiously conducted as to elude the vigilance of the enemy.
Taking the lower road by Sandtown, across the Quaker bridge, the Americans
reached Stony creek, which having crossed, they came to a small wood south of
the Friends meeting house, in the vicinity of Princeton, a little before sunrise.
Here the main column wheeled to the right, and turning the south-east corner of
the wood, marched directly for Princeton. Gen. Mercer, having under him Capts.
Stone, Fleming, Neal, and others, with about 300 men, was detached to take pos
session of the bridge on the old Trenton road, for the double purpose of inter
cepting fugitives from Princeton, and to cover the rear of the army against Lord
Cornwallis from Trenton.
The morning was bright, serene and extremely cold, with a hoar frost, which
bespangled every object. A brigade of the enemy, under Lieut. Col. Mawhood,
NEW JERSEY.
471
consisting of the 17th, 40th and 55th regiments, with three troops of dragoons,
had quartered in Princeton the preceding night. The 17th regiment, on their
march to join Lord Cornwallis at Trenton, had passed the bridge over Stony creek
before they discovered the Americans. Col. Mawhood immediately repassed the
bridge, when he first discovered Gen. Mercer's detachment marching up the creek at
a distance of about 500 yards from the bridge. Both parties then endeavored to get
possession of the high ground on their right. The Americans reached the house
and orchard of Win. Clark, but perceiving the British line advancing on the oppo
site side of the hight, and a worm fence between them, they pushed through the
orchard, and anticipated the enemy by about 40 paces, rl*he first fire was deliv
ered by Gen. Mercer, which the enemy returned with a volley, and instantly
charged. The Americans being armed only with rifles, were forced, after the third
fire, to abandon the fence, and fled in disorder.
On hearing the firing, Gen. Washington directed the Pennsylvania militia to
support Gen. Mercer, and in person led them on with two pieces of artillerv,
under Capt, Wm. Moulder, who formed in battery on the right of Thomas Clark's
house. The enemy had pursued the detachment of Gen. Mercer as far as the brow
of the declivity, when they discovered for the first time the American army. They
thereupon halted, and brought up their artillery. Encouraged by the irresolution
of the militia, they attempted to carry Capt. Moulder's battery; but being galled
by his grape shot, and perceiving Hitchcock's and another continental regiment
advancing from the rear of the American column, they, after a few long shot with
the militia, retreated over the fields up the north side of Stony Brook. This ac
tion, from the first discharge of fire-arms to the retreat of the enemy, did not last
more than 15 or 20 minutes. They left their artillery on the ground, which the
Americans, for want of horses, could not carry off. The 55th and 40th regiments
of the enemy made some show of resistance at the deep ravine, a short distance
south of the village of Princeton, and at the college, into which they precipitated
themselves, on the approach of the Americans. It was, however, soon abandoned,
and many of them made prisoners. In this engagement, upward of JOOof the
enemy were killed, among whom was Capt. Leslie, whose loss they much regretted,
and nearly 300 taken prisoners. The numerical loss of the Americans was incon
siderable, not exceeding 30, 14 only being buried in the field; but it was of great
magnitude in worth and talents — Cols. Haslet and Potter, Maj. Morris, Capts.
Shippen, Fleming, and Neal, were officers of much promise.
In the death of Gen. Mercer, the Americans lost a chief, who, for talents, edu
cation, integrity, and patriotism, was qualified to fill the highest trusts of the
country. "The manner in which he was wounded," says Gen. Wilkinson, "is an
evidence of the excess to which the common soldiery are liable, in the heat of ac
tion, particularly when irritated by the loss of favorite officers. Being obstructed,
when advancing, by a post and rail fence, in front of the orchard, it may be pre
sumed the general dismounted voluntarily ; for he was on foot when the troops
gave way. In exerting himself to rally them, he was thrown into the rear ; and.
perceiving he could not escape, he turned about, somewhere near William Clark's
barn, and surrendered, but was instantly knocked down, and bayoneted 13 times;
when, feigning to be dead, one of his murderers exclaimed, '!> n him ! he is
dead — let us leave him.1 After the retreat of the enemy, he was conveyed to the
house of Thomas Clark, to whom he gave this account, and languished until the
12th, when he expired."
The celebrated Col. Aaron Burr was buried in the Princeton graveyard, near
his lather, President Burr. He was interred with the honors of war; the profes
sors and students of the college, and some of the clergy and citizens, united with
the relatives and friends of the deceased in the procession. Col. Burr was born
at Newark, Feb. 6, 1756. Both his parents died before he reached the third
year of his age, and left him in the possession of a handsome estate. While un
der the care of Dr. Shippen, of Philadelphia, when about four years old, having
some difficulty with his preceptor, he ran away, and was not found until the third
or fourth day afterward : thus indicating, at this early age, a fearlessness of mind.
472
NEW JERSEY.
and reliance on himself, which characterized the subsequent acts of his life. At
the age of 10 he ran away from his uncle, Timothy Edwards, for the purpose of
going to sea. He entered Princeton College, and graduated at the age of 16 years,
receiving the highest academic honors of the institution. On the breaking out of
the revolution, Col. Burr joined the American army, and was a volunteer in Ar
nold's celebrated expedition through the wilderness to Quebec. He was after
ward, for a short period, in the family of Washington, but becoming somewhat
dissatisfied with that great man, he engaged as aid to Gen. Putnam, and was af
terward appointed lieutenant-colonel. Col. Burr next turned his attention to the
study of law, was admitted to the bar in 1782, and commenced practice in Albany.
In 1*791, he was elected to the senate; and in 1801, became vice-president of the
United States.
In the autumn of 1806, a project was detected, at the head of which was Col.
Burr, said to be for revolutionizing the territory west of the Alleghanies, and for
establishing an independent empire there, of which New Orleans was to be the
capitol, and himself the chief. Burr was apprehended, and brought to trial Aug.,
1807: no overt act being proved against him, he .was acquitted. He died at
Staten Island, N. Y., September 14, 3836. "It is truly surprising," says his bio
grapher, "how any individual could have become so eminent as a soldier, a states
man, and as a professional man, who devoted so much time to the other sex, as
was devoted by Col. Burr. For more than half a century of his life, they seemed
to absorb his whole thoughts. His intrigues were without number; his conduct
most licentious."
- -mi
iia=-
Eastern view of Jersey City, opposite New York.
The steam ferry landing, and the terminus of the New Jersey Eailroad, appear in the central part — the
station of the Cunard line of steamers between Liverpool and New York is seen on the left.
JERSEY CITY lies on the west bank of the Hudson, opposite the city of
New York, one mile distant. It contains a city hall, 10 churches, three or
four seminaries, and numerous manufacturing establishments. The New
Jersey Railroad commences here, and in connection with other railroads, ex
tends to Philadelphia; the Paterson and Hudson Railroad also commences
here, and is now connected with the Erie Railroad. The Morris Canal,
after pursuing a circuitous route from Delaware River for 101 miles, ter
minates here. The Cunard Royal Mail Steamship Company, have their
wharf and store houses at Jersey City. When incorporated, in 1820, it con
tained only about 300 inhabitants; in 1850, its population was 11,578, and
it is now about 35,000.
In the war of the revolution, the site of Jersey City was named Powles
NEW JERSEY.
473
Hook ; it was an out-post of the British army, during their occupancy of
New York. Their fort was near the corner of Grand and Greene streets.
This place was surprised by Maj. Lee, at the head of 300 men, on the night
of the 18th of August, 1779, when he captured and brought off 150 prison
ers. It was here that the intrepid Champe, in his pretended desertion from
the American army, while being hotly pursued by a party of Lee's legion,
of which he was the sergeant-major, embarked on board of a British barge,
and escaped to New York, for the purpose of getting Arnold, by stratagem,
into the power of Washington.
Hoboken is one mile north of Jersey City, and contains about 8,000 inhab
itants. It is supplied with water from the Passaic, and is well lighted with gas.
The grounds along the Hudson have been laid out in graveled walks, and
embowered with shrubbery, for the distance of two miles, terminating at a
beautiful lawn called the Elysian Fields.
Eastern mew of New Brunswick.
Part of the railroad bridge over the Raritan, with the Hortzog Theological Hall on an elevation in the
distance, is shown on the right ; the Delaware and Raritan Canal is seen passing along the river in front of
the city. Rutgers' College appears on the hight in the centi-al part ; the Catholic Church and the new
bridge over the Raritan, at the foot of Albany-street, are shown on the left.
A short distance above Weehawken, and about three miles above Hobo-
ken, overhung by the palisades, on the bank of the Hudson, is the spot fa
mous as the dueling-ground. Here several have paid the forfeit of their lives
to a custom at which humanity shudders, and which all laws, divine and hu
man, condemn. Here it was that Gen. Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel
with Col. Aaron Burr, vice president of the United States, July 11, 1804 —
an event at which a nation mourned. A monument was erected to the mem
ory of Hamilton on the spot where he fell, by a society in New York. It
474 NEW JERSEY.
was eventually destroyed by the hand of violence, and the pieces carried off
as relics. The piece bearing the inscription was found in a low groggery in
New York, where it had been pawned for liquor.
NEW BRUNSWICK is situated on the western bank of the Raritan, about 14
miles from its mouth, at Amboy, 29 miles S. W. from New York, and 26 N.
E. from Trenton. The Delaware and Raritan Canal commences here, extend
ing 42 miles to Bordentown ; it is 75 feet wide and 7 deep, admitting the
passage of sloops of from 75 to 150 tuns burden. The railroad bridge at
this place is a handsome structure, over which the New Jersey Railroad
passes. The city contains many fine buildings, various manufactories, and
about 12,000 inhabitants.
Rutgers' College, constructed of dark red free-stone, was completed in
1811, on a site presented to the college by the Hon. James Parker, of Am
boy. This institution was chartered by George III, in 1770, and was named
Queen's College, in honor of his consort; but for want of necessary funds, it
did not go into operation until 1781. It began and continued under the in
struction of tutors, and degrees were conferred by the board of trustees until
1786, when the Rev. J. R. Hardenbergh was elected the first president. Dr.
Hardenbergh died in 1790, and in 1795 the college exercises were discontin
ued. In 1810 Dr. J. H. Livingston was elected president; but in 1816 its
regular instructions were suspended. In 1825 the college edifice was pur
chased by the general synod, and at the request of the trustees the legisla
ture of the state changed the name from Queen's to Rutgers College, in honor
of Col. Henry Rutgers, one of its distinguished benefactors. The "Hertzog
Theological Hall " is a recent structure on a commanding eminence. Both
these institutions are under the patronage of the Dutch Reformed Church.
Perth Amboy took its name from the Earl of Perth, and Ambo, the Indian
word for point. It is 10 miles from New Brunswick, 25 from New York, and
36 from Trenton, and contains 150 buildings. The harbor, considered one
of the best on the continent, is easily approached from the sea. Great efforts
have been made to render this a place of trade, but without success. A city
charter was obtained as early as 1718, and two members were sent to the leg
islature. Until the revolution, it was the capital of East Jersey; and the
legislature used to sit here and at Burlington alternately.
The famous point of land jutting into the Atlantic known as Sandy Hook,
is about 15 miles east of Perth Amboy. The highlands of Navisink, in their
rear, is the first land generally seen by vessels approaching the harbor of
New York from out in the ocean. Many vessels have at various times been
wrecked on Sandy Hook. It changed its character from a promontory to an
island in 1778, by an opening forced by the sea, termed the old Shrewsbury
Inlet. In 1800 the inlet was closed, and the hook again became a promon
tory until 1830, when it was reopened, and is now an island. Vessels pass
through the inlet. At certain stages of the tide, the waters rush through
it with a tremendous roar. The hook is four and a quarter miles in length,
and varies in breadth from a quarter to one mile. It is a low, sandy tract, a
great part of it covered with low trees and shrubs, principally red cedar, in
terspersed with holly, wild cherry, etc. The accumulation of sand fast ex -
tends the cape, so that two light-houses have become useless, being left too
far inland. There are upon it two dwellings, and a light-house near its north
ern extremity.
On the inner shore of the hook, about a mile south of the light-house.
NEW JERSEY.
475
once stood an elegant monument to the memory of a young British officer,
"with twelve more young gentlemen and one common sailor," who were
cast away in a snow storm, in
the war of the Revolution,
and perished from the in
tensity of the cold. They
were found frozen, and were
buried in one common grave
near the margin of the sea
shore. The following was
the inscription :
" Here lie the remains of the
Honorable HAMILTON DOUGLASS
HALIBURTON, son of Sholto
Charles, Earl of Morton, and
heir of the ancient family of
Haliburton, of Pitcurr, in Scot
land : who perished on this
coast, with twelve more young
gentlemen, and one common
sailor, in the spirited discharge
of duty, the 30th or 31st of De
cember, 1783 — born October
the 10th, 1763 : ayouthwho,in
contempt of hardship and dan
ger, though possessed of an am
ple fortune, served seven years
in the British Navy, with a
manly courage. He seemed to
be deserving of a better fate.
To his dear memory and that
of his unfortunate companions,
this monumental stone is erect
ed, by his unhappy mother, Katharine, Countess Dowager of Morton.
JAMES CHAMPION, Lieutenant of Marines.
ALEXANDER JOHNSTON, )
GEORGE PADDY, > Midshipmen.
ROBERT HEYWOOD
SANDY HOOK,
As it appears from the Highlands of Navisink. The scene
embraces a wide expanse of the Atlantic Ocean, with numer
ous vessels " far out at sea," on their way to or from the Bay
of New York, which opens a little to the left of the field of
view.
CHARLES GASCOIGNE, ") o
ANDREW HAMILTON, I |
( WILLIAM TOMLINSON,
J JOHN McCHAiR,
WILLIAM SCOTT, f B | WILLIAM SPRAY,
DAVID REEDIE, ) § v. ROBERT WOOD.
GEORGE TOWERS, Sailor.
Cast away in pursuit of deserters ; all found dead and buried in this grave.
Of his Britannic majesty's ship Assistance: Mr. HALIBURTON, First Lieutenant.
About the year 1808, some barbarians, from a French vessel-of- war, landed
and destroyed this beautiful monument of maternal affection. Some few
traces of it were existing until within a few years. Now no memorial of it
remains, except this record, to tell that it has ever been.
Burlington City, 20 miles N.E. from Philadelphia, and 12 S.W. from
Trenton, is pleasantly situated on the Delaware River, opposite Bristol, Penn
sylvania. It contains a city hall, an arsenal, lyceum, a hospital, 3 seminaries,
and about 5,000 inhabitants. It is the seat of Burlington College, founded
in 1846. The place was first settled by two companies of Friends — one from
476 NEW JERSEY.
Yorkshire, England, the other from London. Corporation privileges were
granted by the legislature in 1693. The present charter of the city, dated
in 1784, declares it to extend the length of 3 miles along the ifelaware, and
one mile into the country from the river. The river-shore is occupied by
handsome residences, and the promenade in front of these, called "Green
Bank," is of surpassing beauty, and is justly the admiration of all visitors
and of passengers in the steamers.
Captain James Lawrence, whose dying words, "Don't give up the ship!"
have immortalized his memory, and James Fennimore Cooper, the celebrated
writer of sea tales, were both natives of Burlington. Elias Boudinot, the
first president of the American Bible Society, resided here the latter part of
his life; his grave and monument to his memory, are in the cemetery of St.
Mary's Church, in this town.
Bordentoicn, 7 miles south of Trenton, is at the head of steam navigation on
the Delaware. The village, which is situated on the brow of a hill, has a
female seminary, and upward of 2,000 inhabitants. The prospect from the
village of the surrounding country is magnificent. Joseph Bonaparte, Count
de Surveilliers the ex-king of Naples and of Spain, the eldest brother of
the Emperor Napoleon, selected Bordentown as a place of residence. He
came to this country in 1815, and settled here during the following season.
The park and grounds of the count comprised about 1,400 acres, a wild and
impoverished tract, which he converted into a place of beauty, blending the
charms of woodland and plantation scenery with a delightful prospect. His
first mansion house was destroyed by fire, together with some rare pictures.
While here, his time was occupied in planning and executing improvements
on his grounds ; and he was noted for his polish of manners and kindness to
the poor.
View of Camden, N. J., from Philadelphia.
The cut shows the appearance of part of Camden, as seen from Walnut Street Ferry, Philadelphia.
Windmill, or Smith's Island, appears in front of the city ; the canal through it is seen on the left.
CAMDEN is situated on the east side of Delaware River, opposite Philadel
phia. Within the memory of some living the whole locality of Camden was
tilled as farms, with but few dwellings along the shore, occupied by ferry
men. Then long lines of black cherry and mulberry trees stood in the high
ways, and numerous apple orchards allured the truant boys from Philadel
phia. Toward the end of the last century, the eccentric William Cobbett
and Matthew Carey fought a duel on the spot, now the heart of the city, un-
perceived by any one but their seconds.
Windmill, or Clark's Island, lies in the Delaware, between Philadelphia
and Camden. In olden times the island was used as a place of execution for
NEW JERSEY. 477
pirates, and in 1798, three were hung there at one time. Originally Camden
consisted of three distinct localities — the upper, Cooper's Point; the central,
Camden; and the lower, Kaign's Point, or South Camden. As early as 1695
a ferry was established between Philadelphia and Cooper's Point. These
localities have long since been merged into one continuous settlement by the
increase of population.
Camden was incorporated as a city in 1828. It is the terminus of the
Camden and Amboy Railroad, and likewise that from Atlantic City, 61 miles
distant, on the Atlantic coast. By railroad it is 32 miles from Trenton and
87 from New York. Connected by numerous steam ferries with Philadel
phia, it is, in effect, a suburb of that city, and partakes of its general pros
perity, as Jersey City does that of New York, to which it bears a similar
relation. Population, in 1840, 3,371; in 1850, 9,479; and in 1860, about
25,000.
Woodbury, the seat of justice for Gloucester county, is 9 miles south from
Philadelphia, and 39 from Trenton. It contains about 1,000 inhabitants.
The creek on which the place is built, is navigable for small vessels to Phila
delphia. Lord Cornwallis was stationed here in the winter of 1777, with a
body of British troops. Fort Mercer, on the Delaware, is within the limits
of the township, and Fort Mifflin on an island in the river, is distant from it
about a mile. These fortresses were scenes of important military operations
in the fall of 1777, just after the British troops had taken possession of
Philadelphia. Gen. Howe, the British commander, wishing to open a com
munication with the sea, found it necessary to obtain possession of the
American fortifications on the river Delaware ; one of these was on Mud
Island, near the Pennsylvania side; the other on lied Bank, opposite, called
Fort Mercer. This fort was defended by Col. Christopher Green, of Rhode
Island, with about 400 men, principally negroes and mulattoes, many of whom
obtained their liberty from slavery by joining the continental army. The
Americans had made their works too extensive. Under the direction of M.
de Mauduitthe outworks were abandoned, and Green's men were placed with
in a fortification at its southern extremity. The following is extracted from
the account given by the Marquis de Chastellux, in his "Travels in North
America:"
On the 22d of October, 1777, in the morning, they received intelligence that a
detachment of 2,500 Hessians were advancing, who were soon after perceived on
the edge of a wood to the north of Red Bank, nearly within cannon shot. Prepa
rations were making for the defense, when a Hessian officer advanced, preceded
by a drum. He was suffered to approach ; but his harangue was so insolent, that
it only served to irritate the garrison, and inspire them with more resolution.
"The king of England," said he, "orders his rebellious subjects to lay down their
arms ; and they are warned, that if they stand the battle, no quarters whatever
will be given." The answer was, that they accepted the challenge, and that there
should be no quarter on either side. At four o clock in the afternoon, the Hes
sians made a very brisk fire from a battery of cannon ; and soon after, they opened,
and marched to the first intrenchment, from which (finding it abandoned but not
destroyed) they imagined they had driven the Americans. They then shouted
victoria, waved their hats in the air, and advanced toward the redoubt. The same
drummer who a few hours before had come to summon the garrison, and had ap
peared as insolent as his officer, was at their head, beating the march. Both he and
that officer were knocked on the head by the first fire. The Hessians, however,
still kept advancing within the first intrenchment, leaving the river on their right.
They had already reached the abattis, and were endeavoring to tear up or cut
away the branches, when they were overwhelmed with a shower of musket shot,
478 NEW JERSEY.
which took them in front and in flank ; for, as chance would have it, a part of the
courtine of the old intrenchment, which had not heen destroyed, formed a projec
tion at thia very part of the intersection. M. de Mauduit had contrived to form it
into a sort of caponiere (or trench with loop-holes) into which he threw some men,
who flanked the enemy's left, and fired on them at close shot. Officers were seen
every moment rallying their men, marching back to the abattis, and falling amidst
the branches they were endeavoring to cut. Col. Donop was particularly distin
guished by the marks of the order he wore, by his handsome figure, and by his
courage. He was also seen to fall like the rest. The Hessians, repulsed by the
fire of the redoubt, attempted to secure themselves from it by attacking on the side
of the escarpement; but the fire from the galleys sent them back, with a great
loss of men. At length they relinquished the attack, and regained the wood in
disorder.
While this was passing on the north side, another column made an attack on
the south, and, more fortunate than the other, passed the abattis, traversed the
fosse, and mounted the berm ; but they were stopped by the fraises, and M. de
Mauduit running to this post as soon as he saw the first assailants give way, the
others were obliged to follow their example. They still did not dare, however, to
stir out of the fort, fearing a surprise; but M. de Mauduit, wishing to replace some
palisades which had been torn up, he sallied out with a few men, and was sur
prised to find about twenty Hessians standing on the berm, and stuck up against
the shelving of the parapet. These soldiep, who had been bold enough to ad
vance thus far — sensible that there was more risk in returning, and not thinking
proper to expose themselves — were taken and brought into the fort. M. de Mau
duit, after fixing the palisades, employed himself in repairing the abattis. He
again sallied out with a detachment; and it was then he beheld the deplorable
spectacle of the dead and dying, heaped one upon another. A voice arose from
amidst these carcases, and said, in English, "Whoever you are, draw me hence.'1
It was the voice of Col. Donop. M. de Mauduit made the soldiers lift him up, and
carry him into the fort, where he was soon known. He had his hip broken ; but
whether they did not consider his wound as mortal, or that they were heated by
the battle, and still irritated at the menaces thrown out against them a few hours
before, the Americans could not help saying aloud, "Well! it is determined to
give no quarter ! " "I am in your hands," replied the colonel : "you may revenge
yourselves." M. de Mauduit had no difficulty in imposing silence, and employed
himself only in taking care of the wounded officer. The latter, perceiving he
spoke bad English, said to him, " You appear to me a foreigner, sir: who are you ?"
" A French officer," replied the other. " Je suis content," said Donop, making use
of our language: "je meurs entre les mains de I'konneur meme." [1 am content:
I die in the hands of honor itself]. The next day he was removed to the Quaker's
house, where he lived three days, during which he conversed frequently with M.
de Mauduit. He told him that he had been long in friendship with M. de Saint
Germain; that he wished, in dying, to recommend to him his vanquisher and bene
factor. He asked for paper, and wrote a letter, which he delivered to M. de Mau
duit — requiring of him, as the last favor, to acquaint him when he was about to
die. The latter was soon under the necessity of acquitting himself of this sad
duty. " It is finishing a noble career early" said the colonel; " but I die the vic
tim of my ambition, and of the avarice of my sovereign."
In this expedition the enemy are supposed to have lost about 400 men ;
the American loss was 32 in killed and wounded : many of these were in
jured by the bursting of one of their cannon. In commemoration of the
battle of Red Bank a monument has been erected, having the following in
scription:
THIS MONUMENT was erected on the 22d of October, 1829, to transmit to posterity a grate
ful remembrance of the patriotism and gallantry of Lieut. Col. Christopher Green, who,
with 400 men, conquered the Hessian army of 2,000 troops, then in the British service, at the
Red Bank, on the 22d of October, 1777. Among the wounded was found their commander,
COUNT DONOP, who died of his wounds, and whose body is interred near the spot where he
fell. A number of the New Jersey and Pennsylvania volunteers being desirous to perpetu-
NEW JERSEY.
479
ate the memory of the distinguished officers and soldiers who fought and bled in the glo
rious struggle for American Independence, have erected this monument on the 22d day of
October, Anno Domini 1829.
Salem, the county seat for Salem county, is on the east bank of Salem
River, three and a half miles from its mouth, 34 miles S. E. from Philadel
phia, and 65 S. from Trenton. The place is well built, and contains upward
of 2,000 inhabitants. Considerable bnsiness is done here. Salem was first
settled by John Fenwick, with a company of Friends, in 1675.
Bridgeton, the county seat of Cumberland county, is situated on both sides
of Cohansey creek, 17 miles from Salem, 60 from Trenton, and 8 from Dela
ware Bay. It has about 5,000 inhabitants. A large coasting business is
done here ; and it contains several factories of various kinds.
View of part of Paterson.
The view shows the appearance of several manufacturing establishments, as seen from the summit of the
cliff, about 40 yards distant from the falls.
Shortly after the destruction of the tea in Boston, the East India Tea Com
pany determined to try whether they might not meet with better success in
sending a cargo into the Cohansey. Accordingly the brig Greyhound, with
a cargo of tea bound to Philadelphia, came up the river and discharged at
Greenwich depositing the tea in the cellar of a house standing in front of
the market ground. In the evening of Thursday, November 22, 1774, it
was taken possession of by about 40 men, disguised as Indians, who deliber
ately conveyed the chests from the cellar, piled them in an adjoining field,
and burnt them in one general conflagration.
Cape May, about 100 miles from Philadelphia, is a favorite watering
place, having several large hotels and boarding houses. In the summer
months the island is thronged with visitors, principally from Philadelphia,
with which there is a daily communication. The village is separated
by a small creek from the main land ; but its area is wearing away by the
encroachments of the sea. A large portion of the inhabitants of the vicinity
480 NEW JERSEY.
are Delaware pilots, a hardy and industrious race. About two miles west of
the boarding nouses, is the Cape May light house.
Atlantic City is a newly founded watering place on Absecombe Beach, on
the Atlantic Coast. Its direct connection with Philadelphia by a railroad
across the state, and the advantages of its situation are rendering it a thriv
ing and favorite place of resort.
Schooley's Mountain is a popular summer retreat, in the northern part of
the state, 20 miles easterly from Morristown. It is elevated about 1,100
feet above the sea, and has a mineral spring of some note for its medicinal
qualities.
PATERSON is situated on the Passaic River, 13 miles N. of Newark, and
17 from New York, on the line of the railroad connecting Jersey City with
the Erie Railroad. It contains about 15 churches for various denomina
tions: a philosophical society with a valuable library, and a mechanic's so
ciety, for the advancement of science and the mechanic arts, with a library
and philosophical apparatus. Population about 18,000. It is connected by
two bridges with the village of Manchester, opposite, which in a general
view, may be considered as a part of this place. The falls of the Passaic, at
Paterson, are justly celebrated for their romantic beauty.
The advantages derived from the great fall of the river here, have been
improved with much judgment. A dam of four and a half feet high, strong
ly framed and bolted to the rock, in the bed of the river above the falls,
turns the stream through a canal excavated in the trap rock of the bank into
a basin, whence, through strong guard gates, it supplies, in succession, three
canals on separate planes, each below the other, giving to the mills on each
a head and fall of about 22 feet. Upon this fine water power, a great manu
facturing place has grown up, which has the important advantages of an
abundant and steady supply of water, a healthy and fertile surrounding
country, and a near proximity to the city of New York, with which it is
connected by the sloop navigation of the Passaic, the Morris Canal, and by
a railroad. The largest establishments here are the cotton factories, of
which there are over 20 ; there are also two manufactories of locomotives :
woolen factories, dyeing and printing establishments, machine shops, mills
of various kinds, etc. The factories are constructed mostly of stone.
This important manufacturing town was established by a society incorporated in 1791
with a capital of $1,000,000, which owed its origin to the exertions of Alexander Hamil
ton. The general object of the company was to lay the foundation of a great emporium
of manufactures. The prominent purpose of the society was the manufacture of cotton
cloths. At this period the great improvements introduced in the cotton manufacture by
Arkwright, were but little known even in Europe, and in this country scarcely any cotton
had been spun by machinery.*
The act of incorporation gave a city charter, with jurisdiction, over a tract of six square
miles. The society was organized at New Brunswick, in Nov. 1791, and the following
gentleman appointed as its board of directors, viz : William Duer, John Dewhurst, Benja
min Walker, Nicholas Low, Royal Flint, Elisha Boudinot, John Bayard, John Neilson,
Archibald Mercer, Thomas Lowring, George Lewis, More Furman,' and Alexander
M'Comb. William Duer Avas appointed the principal officer. Having been duly organ
ized, the society, in May, 1792, decided upon the great falls of the Passaic as the site of
* The first cotton spun by machinery in America, was at Pawtucket, Rhode Island, Dec.,
1790, by Samuel Slater, an English emigrant, who may be properly styled " the parent of
the American cotton manufacture." As an evidence of the vast improvements in the manu
facture and culture of cotton, it is stated that at that period good cotton cloth was 50 cents
per yard.
NEW JERSEY.
481
their proposed operations, and named it Paterson, in honor of Gov. William Paterson, who
had signed their charter. There were then not over 10 houses here.
Freehold, the seat of justice for Monmouth county, is on a plain slightly
elevated above the surrounding country ; distant east from Trenton, 30 miles.
The village contains the usual county buildings, five churches and about
500 inhabitants. It properly dates its origin from the period when the
0 PECKS KILL Y,
Map of the Seat of War, in New Jersey and Vicinity.
county courts were first held here in 1735, and hence, in olden times, was
known by the appellation of " Monmouth Court House." This vicinity is
rendered memorable from the circumstances that one of the most sanguinary
battles of the revolution was fought here — the battle of Monmouth, Sunday,
June 28, 1778.
The following account of the action is from Holmes' Annals :
On the alliance of America with France, it was resolved, in Great Britain, im
mediately to evacuate Philadelphia, and to concentrate the royal force in the city
and harbor of New York. In pursuance of this resolution, the royal army on the
18th of June passed over the Delaware into New Jersey. Gen. Washington, pene
trating that design, had previously detached Gen. Maxwell's brigade to co-operate
with the Jersey militia, in impeding their progress, until he, with the main army,
should fall on their rear. When the American army, in pursuit of the British,
had crossed the Delaware, 600 men were immediately detached, under Col. Mor
gan, to reinforce Gen. Maxwell. The British army having passed up the east side
of the Delaware to Allentown, its future course was dubious. Two roads led to
New York ; one by the way of Sandy Hook, the other by South Amboy, opposite
to Staten Island and North River. The last of these roads was the shortest, but
in that direction the Raritan intervened, and the passage of that river in the face
of an enemy, superior in number, might be difficult and dangerous ; especially as
intelligence had been received, that Gen. Gates, with another army, was advanc
ing from the northward to form a junction with Gen. Washington near that river.
482
The British general concluded to take the road which led to Sandy Hook; and
when his army had proceeded some miles along this road, it encamped on the 27th
of June, on some high grounds in the neighborhood of Freehold court house, in
the county of Monmouth.
Gen. Washington, hearing that the enemy were on their march in that direction,
dispatched Brig. Gen. Wayne with a farther detachment of 1,000 select men to
strengthen the forces on the lines. The continental troops, now in front of the
main army, amounting to at least 4,000 men, Gen. Washington sent the Marquis
de LaFayette to take command of them, and soon after, Gen. Lee,* who, with two
additional brigades, joined the front division, which was now under his direction,
and encamped at Englishtown, a few miles in the rear of the British army. A
corps of 600 men, under Col. Morgan, hovered on the right flank of the British ;
and 800 of the Jersey militia, under Gen. Dickenson, were on the left. Gen.
Washington, with the main body of the American army, encamped about three
miles in the rear of his advanced corps. Such was the disposition of the two
armies on the evening of the 27th of June. About 12 miles in front of the British,
the high grounds about Middletown would afford them a position, which would
effectually secure them from the impression of the Americans. Gen. Washington
determined to risk an attack on their rear, before they should reach those hights.
Gen. Lee was accordingly ordered to make his dispositions for the attack, and to
keep his troops constantly lying on their arms, that he might take advantage of
the first movement of the enemy; and corresponding orders were given to the rear
division of the army.
The British army marched in two divisions, the van commanded by Gen. Kny-
phausen, and the rear by Lord Cornwallis ; but the British commander-in-chief,
judging that the design of the American general was to make an attempt on his
baggage, put it under the care of Gen. Knyphausen, that the rear division, con
sisting of the flower of the British army, might be ready to act with vigor. This
arrangement being made, Gen. Knyphausen's division marched, in pursuance of
orders, at break of day on the 28th of June; but the other division, under Lord
Cornwallis, attended by the commander-in-chief, did not move until eight, that it
might not press too closely on the baggage. Gen. Lee appeared on the hights of
Freehold soon after the British had left them ; and, following them into the plain,
made dispositions for intercepting their covering party in the rear. While he was
advancing to the front of a wood adjoining the plain, to reconnoiter the enemy in
person, Sir Henry Clinton was marching back his whole rear division, to attack
the Americans. Lee now perceived that he had mistaken the force which formed
the rear of the British ; but he still proposed to engage on that ground. While
both armies were preparing for action, Gen. Scott, mistaking an oblique march of
an American column for a retreat, left his position, and repassed a morass in his
rear. Lee, dissatisfied with the ground on which the army was drawn up, did not
correct the error of Scott; but directed the whole detachment to repass the
morass, and regain the hights. During this retrograde movement, the rear of
the army, which, at the first firing, had thrown off their packs and advanced
rapidly to the support of the front, approached the scene of action; and Gen.
Washington, riding forward, met the advanced corps, to his extreme mortification
and astonishment, retiring before the enemy. On coming up to Lee, he spoke in
terms of disapprobation; but, though warm, he lost not for a moment that self
command, than which at so critical a moment nothing could be more essential to
the command of others. He instantly ordered Col. Stewart's and Lieut. Col. Ram
say's battalions to form on a piece of ground, which he judged suitable for giving
a check to the enemy ^ and, having directed Gen. Lee to take proper measures
#Gen. Lee, who, having been exchanged for the British general, Prescott, had joined the
American army, was decisively of opinion, that it would "be criminal" to hazard an ac
tion. This opinion he had given in a council of war on the 24th of June, when every gene
ral officer, excepting Wayne, was decidedly against an attack. Gen. Washington, who had
uniformly been inclined to bring on a general action, at last took the sole responsibility on
nimself. Gen. Lee, who had at first voluntarily yielded the advanced party to LaFayette,
soon regretted his decision ; and it was on his earnest solicitation for the command, that
he was sent forward to support the marquis.
NEW JERSEY. 483
with the residue of his force, to stop the British columns on that ground, he rode
back himself to arrange the rear division of the army. His orders were executed
with firmness. A sharp conflict ensued; and though Lee was forced from the
ground on which he had been placed, he brought off his troops in good order,' and
was then directed to form in the rear of Englishtown. The check, which he had
given to the enemy, procured time to make a disposition of the left wing and sec
ond line of the American army, in the wood and on the eminence to which Lee
was retreating. Lord Stirling, who commanded the left wing, placed some can
non on the eminence, which, with the co-operation of some parties of infantry,
effectually stopped the advance of the British in that quarter. The enemy at
tempted to turn the left flank of the Americans, but were repulsed. They also
made a movement to the right, but were there repelled by Gen. Green, who had
taken a very advantageous position. Wayne, advancing with a body of troops,
kept up so severe and well directed a fire, that the British soon gave way, and took
the position which Lee had before occupied, where the action commenced imme
diately after the arrival of Gen. Washington. Here the British line was formed
on very strong ground. Both flanks were secured by the woods and morasses, and
their front could only be reached through a narrow pass. The day had been in
tensely hot; and the troops were greatly fatigued; yet Gen. Washington resolved
to renew the engagement. He ordered Brig. Gen. Poor with his own, and the
Carolina brigade, to gain the enemy's right flank, while Woodford, with his
brigade, should turn their left. The artillery was ordered at the same time to ad
vance and play on them in front. These orders were obeyed; but there were so
many impediments to be overcome, that before the attack could be commenced, it
was nearly dark. It was, therefore, thought most advisable to postpone farther
operations until morning; and the troops lay on their arms in the field of battle.
Gen. Washington, who had been exceedingly active through the day, and entirely
regardless of personal danger, reposed himself at night in his cloak, under a tree,
in the midst of his soldiers. His intention of renewing the battle was frustrated.
The British troops marched away about midnight in such profound silence, that
the most advanced posts, and those very near, knew nothing of their departure un
til morning. The American general, declining all further pursuit of the royal
army, detached some light troops to attend its motions, and drew off his troops to
the borders of the North River. Sir Henry Clinton, after remaining a few days
on the high grounds of Middletown, proceeded to Sandy Hook, whence he passed
his army over to New York.
The loss of the Americans in this battle, was eight officers and 61 privates
killed, and about 160 wounded. Among the slain, and much regretted, were
Lieut. Col. Bonner, of Pennsylvania, and Maj. Dickenson, of Virginia. The loss
of the British army, in killed, wounded, and missing, is stated to have been 358
men, including officers. Among their slain was Lieut. Col. Monckton, who was
greatly and deservedly lamented. About 100 were taken prisoners; and nearly
1,000 soldiers, principally foreigners, many of whom had married in Philadelphia,
deserted the British standard during the march."
The story of a woman who rendered essential service to the Americans in the
battle, is founded on fact. She was an Irish woman of 22 years of age, and of
masculine mold: she dressed in a mongrel suit, with the petticoats of her own sex,
and an artillery-man's coat, cocked hat and feathers. The anecdote usually re
lated is as follows : Before the armies engaged in general action, two of the ad
vanced batteries commenced a severe fire against each other. As the heat was
excessive, Molly, who was the wife of a cannonier, constantly ran to bring her
husband water from a neighboring spring. While passing to his post, she saw
him fall, and on hastening to his assistance, found him dead. At the same mo
ment she heard an officer order the cannon to be removed from its place, com
plaining he could not fill his post with as brave a man as had been killed. "No,"
said the intrepid Molly, fixing her eyes upon the officer, " the cannon shall not be
removed for the want of some one to serve it; since my brave husband is no more,
I will use my utmost exertions to avenge his death." The activity and courage
with which she performed the office of cannonier, during the action, attracted the
31
484 NEW JERSEY.
attention of all who witnessed it, and finally Washington himself, who afterward
gave her the rank of lieutenant, and granted her half pay during her life. She
wore an epaulette, and was called Capt. Molly. After the war, she was known
as "Dirty Kate," a title acquired by her habits, which had become so infamous
that she finally died a horrible death from a loathsome disease.
The annexed view is copied from that in Lossing's Field Book : it was
taken from the position held by Wayne, when the British colonel, Monck-
ton, fell at the head of his
grenadiers, and which is indi
cated by the two figures on
the right. The rising ground
in the extreme distance, on the
left of the old parsonage, was
occupied by the second divis
ion of the American army un
der Washington in person.
The British grenadiers, seve-
BATTLE FIELD OF MONMOUTH. i , • -, -, , , .
ral times, advanced to drive
Wayne from his position, but were as often driven back; when Col. Monck-
ton made to them a spirited address, every word of which was heard by the
Americans. They then advanced in beautiful order, as though on parade.
Such was the regularity of their march, that it is said a cannon ball from
Comb's Hill disarmed a whole platoon. As they approached within a few
rods of the barn, Wayne ordered his men to pick out the officers ; they
thereupon poured in a terrible fire, when almost every British officer fell,
among whom was their leader, the gallant Col. Monckton. A desperate
hand to hand struggle then occurred, for the possession of his body, in which
the Americans finally succeeded, and the grenadiers were driven back.
During the action, Morgan lay with his corps at Richmond's (now Shumar's)
mills, three miles south of the court house. For some unknown reason he
did not participate in the events of the day. He was waiting for orders in
an agony of indecision, walking to and fro for hours, within sound of the
conflict, uncertain what course to pursue. Had he received directions to at
tack the enemy in rear with his fresh troops, when exhausted by fatigue and
heat, their whole army might have been taken.
The most desperate part of the conflict was in the vicinity of where Monck
ton fell. There the British grenadiers lay in heaps, like sheaves on a har
vest field. They dragged the corpses by the heels to shallow pits dug for
the purpose, and slightly covered them with earth. For many years after,
their graves were indicated by the luxuriance of the vegetation. Among
the enemy's dead, was a sergeant of grenadiers, designated as the "high ser
geant" He was the tallest man in the British army, measuring seven feet
and four inches in hight.
The day was unusually hot even for the season, and both armies suffered
severely; the British more than the Americans, because in their woolen uni
forms, and burdened with their knapsacks and accounterments, while the
latter were divested of their packs and superfluous clothing. The tongues
of great numbers were so swollen, as to render them incapable of speaking.
Many of both armies perished solely from heat, and after the battle were
seen dead upon the field without mark or wound, under trees and beside the
rivulet, where they had crawled for shade and water. The countenances of
the dead became so blackened as to render it impossible to recognize indi
viduals.
NEW JERSEY. 485
The following anecdote, extracted from a French work, reflects credit upon the
humanity and forbearance of the British commander: A general, officer of the
American army advanced with a score of men under the English batteries to re-
connoiter their position. His aid-de-camp, struck by a ball, fell at His side. The
officers and orderly dragoons fled precipitately. The general, though under the
fire of the cannon, approached the wounded man to see if he had any signs of life
remaining, or whether any aid could be afforded him. Finding the wound had
been mortal, he turned away his head with emotion, and slowly rejoined the
group who had got out of the reach of the pieces. Gen. Clinton knew that the
Marquis de LaFayette generally rode a white horse; it was upon a white horse
the officer who retired so slowly was mounted ; Clinton desired the gunners not
to fire. This noble forbearance probably saved M. de LaFayette, for he it was.
Near the battlefield of Monmouth, stands the First Presbyterian Church,
of Freehold, erected in 1752. It is of wood, shingled, and painted white.
It stands partially enveloped in a grove of forest trees, is surrounded by an
old graveyard, and has an ancient and venerable appearance. It is on the
site of a former one, and public worship has been held on this venerated
place for about two centuries. On this spot, within the walls of the church,
Whitfield, David Brainard, and the two Tennents, have labored and prayed.
At the time of the battle, a person, while sitting on a grave-stone in the
yard, was mortally wounded by a cannon ball. He was carried into the
church, and there died. His blood stained the floor, and remains plainly
visible to the present day, a melancholy memento, in this house of God, of
those dark and troublesome times. Col. Monckton, of the British grena
diers, killed at Monmouth, lies buried within six feet of the west end of the
church. He was a gallant officer, and of splendid personal appearance. His
name, roughly cut on a slab of wood, erected by a patriotic schoolmaster in
the vicinity, marks the spot.
The Rev. William Tennent, remarkable for his piety, and devotedness to
the Christian cause, was, for a long period, the pastor of this church. He
came from Ireland in 1718 with his father, the Rev. William Tennent, and
was educated under his tuition, at the Log College, on the banks of the
Neshaminey. Being of a serious turn, he resolved to devote himself to the
gospel ministry, and commenced the study of divinity under the direction of
his brother, the Rev. Gilbert Tennent, pastor of the church at New Bruns
wick. While there, he was thrown into a remarkable trance, and remained
apparently dead for a number of days.
When he had recovered, he discovered great reluctance to enter into any ex
planation of his perceptions and feelings at this time ; but being importunately
urged to do it, he at length consented, and proceeded with a solemnity not to be
described :
"While I was conversing with my brother," said he, "on the state of my soul,
and the fears I had entertained for my future welfare, I found myself, in an in
stant, in another state of existence, under the direction of a superior Being, who
ordered me to follow him. 1 was accordingly wafted along, I know not how, until
I beheld, at a distance, an ineffable glory, the impression of which, on my mind, it
is impossible to communicate to mortal man. I immediately reflected on my hap
py change, and thought — Well, blessed be God ! I am- safe at last, notwithstand
ing all my fears. I saw an innumerable host of happy beings, surrounding the
inexpressible glory, in acts of adoration and joyous worship; but I did not see
any bodily shftpe or representation in the glorious appearance. I heard things
unutterable. 1 heard their songs and hallelujahs of thanksgiving and praise, with
unspeakable rapture. I felt joy unutterable and full of glory. 1 then applied to
my conductor, and requested leave to join the happy throng — on which he tapped
486 NEW JERSEY.
me on the shoulder and said, ' You must return to the earth.' This seemed like
a sword through my heart. In an instant 1 recollect to have seen my brother
standing before me disputing with the doctor. The three days during which I
had appeared lifeless, seemed to me not more than 10 or 20 minutes. The idea
of returning to this world of sorrow and trouble gave me such a shock, that I
fainted repeatedly." He added, " Such was the effect upon my mind of what I
had seen and heard, that, if it be possible fora human being to live entirely above
the world and the things of it, for sometime afterward I was that person. The
ravishing sounds of the songs and hallelujahs that I heard, and the very words
that were uttered, were not out of my ears, when awake, for at least three years.
All the kingdoms of the earth were in my sight, as nothing and vanity ; and so
great were my ideas of heavenly glory, that nothing which did not, in some meas
ure, relate to it, could command my serious attention."
A few miles easterly from the battlefield of Monmouth, at a locality
known as Colt's Neck, resided the brave Capt. Joshua Huddy, of revolu
tionary memory. The dwelling in which
he resided, is yet standing, and shows the
marks of the conflict which has made it
noted in this region.
Huddy distinguished himself on various
occasions in the war, and became an object
of terror to the tories. One evening, in the
summer of 1780, a party of about 60 refu-
THE HUDDY HOUSE. geeSj commanded by Tye, a mulatto, at
tacked this dwelling. Huddy, assisted only by a servant girl, aged about 20
years, defended it for some length of time. Several muskets were fortu
nately left in the house by the guard generally stationed there, but at this
time absent. These she loaded, while Huddy, by appearing at different win
dows and discharging them, gave the impression that there were many de
fenders. He wounded several, and at last, while setting fire to the house,
he shot their leader Tye in the wrist. Huddy, finding the flames fast in
creasing, agreed to surrender, provided they would extinguish the fire.
It is said the enemy, on entering, were much exasperated at the feebleness of
its defenders ; and could, with difficulty, be restrained by their leader from butch
ering them on the spot. They were obliged to leave, as the militia soon collected,
and killed six on their retreat. They carried off, with Huddy, several cattle and
sheep from the neighborhood, but lost them in fording the creeks. They em
barked on board their boats near Black Point, between Shrewsbury and Navisink
River. As the boats pushed from shore, Huddy jumped overboard, and was shot
in the thigh, as was supposed by the militia, then in close pursuit. He held up
one of his hands toward them, exclaiming, "I am Huddy ! I am Huddy!" swam
to the shore, and escaped.
• Two years after, March, 1782, Huddy commanded a blockhouse at Tom's River,
which was attacked by a party of refugees from New York, and taken after a gal
lant resistance. The prisoners were carried to New York; from thence Huddy
was conveyed to Sandy Hook, and placed, heavily ironed, on board a guard-ship.
While confined he was told, by one of the refugees, that he was to be hanged,
" for he had taken a certain Philip White, a refugee in Monmouth county, cut off
both his arms, broke his legs, pulled out one of his eyes, damned him, and then
bid him run." He answered, "it is impossible I could have taken Philip White,
I being a prisoner in New York at the time, closely confined, and for many days
before he was made prisoner. One or two of his comrades corroborated this state
ment. Four days after, April 12th, Huddy was taken by 16 refugees under Capt.
Lippencott, to Gravelly Point, on the seashore at the foot of Navisink Hills, about
a mile north of the Highland lighthouses, where he was deliberately executed.
NEW JERSEY. 487
He met his fate with an extraordinary degree of firmness and serenity. It is said
he even executed his will under the gallows, upon the head of that barrel from
which he was to make his exit and in a handwriting fairer than usual. The fol
lowing label was attached to his breast:
We, the refugees, having long, with grief, beheld the cruel murders of our breth
ren, and finding nothing but such measures daily carrying into execution; we
therefore determine not to suffer without taking vengeance for the numerous cruel
ties ; and thus begin, having made use of Capt. Huddy, as the first object to pre
sent to your mew ; and further determine to hang man for man, while there is a
refugee existing.
UP GOES HUDDY FOR PHILIP WHITE !
The gallows, formed of three rails, stood on the beach, close to the sea. Tradi
tion states that Capt. Lippencott, observing reluctance in some of his men to take
hold of the rope, drew his sword, and swore he would run the first through who
disobeyed orders. Three of the party, bringing their bayonets to the charge, de
clared their determination to defend themselves — that Huddy was innocent of
the death of White, and they would not be concerned in the murder of an inno
cent man.
White, the refugee, was a carpenter, and served his time in Shrewsbury. Six
days after Huddy was taken, he was surprised by a party of militia lighthorse,
near Snag Swamp, in the eastern part of the township. After laying down his
arms in token of surrender, he took up his musket and killed a Mr. Hendrickson.
He was, however, secured, and while being taken to Freehold was killed at Pyle's
Corner, three miles from there. He was under the guard of three men, the father
of one of whom was murdered at Shrewsbury, the year previous, by a band of
refugees, among whom was White, and he was therefore highly exasperated
against the prisoner. Some accounts state, that he was killed while attempting to
escape ; others, with more probability, that they pricked him with their swords,
and thus forcing him to run, cruelly murdered him.
The corpse of Huddy was carried to Freehold, and buried with the honors of
war. A funeral sermon was preached on the occasion by the Rev. Mr. Wood-
hull,* who afterward suggested to Gen. David Forman the propriety of retaliation.
Forman wrote to this effect to Washington. The subsequent history of this affair
is thus given in Ramsay's History of the Revolution.
Gen. Washington resolved on retaliation for this deliberate murder; but in
stead of immediately executing a British officer, he wrote to Sir Henry Clinton,
that unless the murderers of Huddy were given up, he should be under the neces
sity of retaliating. The former being refused, Capt. Asgill was designated by lot
for that purpose. In the meantime, the British instituted a court-martial for the
trial of Capt. Lippencott, who was supposed to be the principal agent in executing
Huddy. It appeared, in the course of this trial, that Gov. Franklin, the president
of the board of associated loyalists, gave Lippencott verbal orders for what he did;
and that he had been designated as a proper subject for retaliation, having been,
as the refugees stated, a persecutor of the loyalists, and particularly as having
been instrumental in hanging Stephen Edwards,f who had been one of that de-
* This clergyman was originally settled over a congregation in Pennsylvania. He was a
strenuous whig, and while there, advocated the cause so eloquently from the pulpit, that he
succeeded in enlisting as soldiers, every male member of his congregation capable of bear
ing arms, he going with them as chaplain. In the spring of 1779, he was settled over the
First Presbyterian Church of Freehold, where he continued until his death, in Nov. 1824.
f Stephen Edwards, a young man, in the latter part of the war, left his home, at Shrews-
bury, and joined the loyalists at New York. From thence he was sent, by Col. Taylor of
the refugees, a former resident of Middletown, back to Monmouth county, with written in
structions to ascertain the force of the Americans there. Information having been con
veyed to the latter, Jonathan Forman, a captain of cavalry, was ordered to search for him.
Suspecting he might be at his father's residence, half a ijiile below Eatontown, he entered
it at midnight with a party of men, and found him in bed with his wife, disguised in the
nightcap of a female.
He was seized, tried by a court martial, and hung as a spy. The Forman and Edwards
families had, previous to the war, been on the most friendly terms.
488 NEW JERSEY.
scription. The court, having considered the whole matter, gave their opinion —
"That, as what Lippencott did was not the effect of malice or ill-will, but pro
ceeded from a conviction that it was his duty to obey the orders of the board of
directors of associated loyalists, and as he did not doubt their having full authori
ty to give such orders, he was not guilty of the murder laid to his charge, and
therefore they acquitted him." Sir Guy Carleton, who, a little before this time,
had been appointed commander-in-chief of the British army, in a letter to Gen.
Washington, accompanying the trial of Lippencott, declared "that, notwithstand
ing the acquittal of Lippencott, he reprobated the measure, and gave assurances
of prosecuting a further inquiry." Sir Guy Carleton, about the same time, broke
up the board of associated royalists, which prevented a repetition of similar ex
cesses. The war, also, drawing near a close, the motives for retaliation, as tend
ing to prevent other murders, in a great measure ceased. In the meantime, Gen.
Washington received a letter from the Count de Vergennes, interceding for Capt.
Asgill, which was also accompanied with a very pathetic one from his mother,
Mrs. Asgill, to the count. Copies of these several letters were forwarded to con
gress, and soon after they resolved, "that the commander-in-chief be directed to
set Capt. Asgill at liberty." The lovers of humanity rejoiced that the necessity
for retaliation was superseded, by the known humanity of the new British com
mander-in-chief, and still more by the well-founded prospect of a speedy peace.
Asgill, who had received every indulgence, and who had been treated with all
possible politeness, was released, and permitted to go into New York.
Morristown is on an elevated plain, 23 miles by railroad westerly from
Newark. It is an uncommonly beautiful village, having many fine private
Dwellings, with ample yards and garden plots; and in its center is a hand
some public square. The village has several extensive carriage manufac
tories, and about 2,500 inhabitants.
Morristown was probably first settled between the years 1700 and 1720.
In 1740 the first Presbyterian church was established. In the revolutionary
war, the population of the village was about 250.
The first court house was built in 1755. The
American army, under Washington, had their win
ter quarters at Morristown on two different occa
sions. The first time was in June, 1777, immedi
ately after the battles of Trenton and Princeton;
the second was during the winter of 1779-80. The
Pennsylvania line were also stationed here in the
succeeding winter.
The first season, Washington quartered in the
old Freeman tavern, which stood on the north side
of the green. His headquarters in the winter of
1779-80 was the residence, at that time, of the
widow of Col. Jacob Ford, who commanded the
first reo-iment of Morris county militia, during
WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS. Ilt7 , . ° , , , •, 1,1 mi.
Washington s retreat through the state. Ihe gen
eral and his suit occupied the whole building, excepting the two rooms east
of the entry, which were retained by the family. This house is of brick,
covered with wood and painted white.
Two sentinels paraded in front and two in the rear, constantly, day and
night. The life-guard, composed of about 250 men, under Gen. Wm. Col-
fax, were barracked in about 50 rude huts which stood in the meadow, formed
by the angle of two roads, a few rods south-east of the dwelling. Several
times during the winter false alarms were given of the approach of the enemy.
First, a distant report of a gun would be heard from the most remote senti
nel, and then one nearer, and so on, until the sentinel* by the house would
NEW JERSEY. 439
fire in turn. From them it would be communicated toward Morristown, un
til the last gun would be heard far westward at camp ; and immediately the
life-guard would rush from their huts into the house, barricade the doors,
open the windows, and about five men would place themselves at each win
dow, with their muskets brought to a charge, loaded and cocked ready for
defense. There they would remain until the troops from camp were seen
marching with music, at quick step, down toward the mansion.
Count Pulaski frequently exercised his corps of cavalry in front of the head
quarters. He was an expert horseman, and performed many feats of skill He
would sometimes, while his horse was on full gallop, discharge his pistol, toss it in
the air, catch it by the barrel, and throw it ahead as if at an enemy. With his horse
still on the jump, he would lift one foot out of the stirrup, and, with the other foot
in, bend to the ground and recover the weapon. Some of the best horsemen in the
army, the Virginia lighthorse, attempted to imitate the feat. Once in three or four
trials they would succeed in catching the pistol; none, however, were able to pick
it up from the ground, but in their attempts got some terrible falls.
The army, in the winter of 1779-80, encamped on the hill back of the
court house. Their encampment extended several miles into the country.
The soldiers lived principally in small log huts ; some remains of their stone
chimneys are still visible. At this period the soldiers suffered from the want
of clothing and provisions. In a private letter to a friend, Washington
says :
" We have had the virtue and patience of the army put to the severest trial. Some
times it has been five or six days together without bread — at other times as many
days without meat; and once or twice, two or three days without either. I hardly
thought it possible, at one period, that we should be able to keep it together, nor
could it have been done, but for the exertions of the magistrates in the several coun
ties of this state (Jersey), on whom I was obliged to call, expose our situation to
them, and in plain terms declare that we were reduced to the alternative of dis
banding or catering for ourselves, unless the inhabitants would afford us their aid.
I allotted to each county a certain proportion of flour or grain, and a certain
number of cattle, to be delivered on certain days ; and, for the honor of the magis
trates, and the good disposition of the people, I must add that my requisitions were
punctually complied with, and in many counties exceeded. Nothing but this great
exertion could have saved the army from dissolution or starving, as we were bereft
of every hope from the commissaries. At one time the soldiers ate every kind of
horse food but hay. Buckwheat, common wheat, rye, and Indian corn, composed
the meal which made their bread. As an army, they bore it with the most heroic
patience; but sufferings like those, accompanied by the want of clothes, blankets,
etc., will produce frequent desertion in all armies; and so it happened with us,
though it did not excite a single mutiny."
On the evening of the first of January, 1781, the Pennsylvania line, sta
tioned near Morristown, at a concerted signal, paraded under arms, and de
clared their intention of marching to Philadelphia and demanding a redress
of grievances. They complained that, in addition to sustaining sufferings
common to all, they were retained in service contrary to the terms of their
enlistment.
Gen. Wayne, who commanded the Pennsylvania troops, endeavored to interpose his in
fluence and authority, urging them to return to their duty, until their grievances could be
inquired into and redressed. But all was to no purpose, and on cocking his pistol, they in
stantly presented their bayonets to his breast, saying, " We respect and love you ; often have
you led us into thejield of battle, but we are no longer under your command ; we warn you to
be on your guard ; if you Jire your pistols, or attempt to enforce your commands, we shall put
you instantly to death." Gen. Wayne next expostulated with them, expressing his appre
hension that they were about to sacrifice the glorious cause of their country, and that tho
490 NEW JERSEY.
enemy would avail themselves of the opportunity to advance and improve so favorable an
occasion. They assured him that they still retained an attachment and respect for the
cause which they had embraced, and that, so far from a disposition to abandon it, if the
enemy should dare to come out of New York, they would, under his and his officers' or
ders, face them in the field, and oppose them to the utmost in their power. They com
plained that they had been imposed on and deceived respecting the term of their enlistment;
that they had received no wages for more than a year, and that they were destitute of cloth
ing, and had often been deprived of their rations. These were their grievances, and they were
determined to march to Philadelphia and demand of congress that justice which had so
long been denied to them. They commenced their march in regular military order, and
when encamped at night, they posted out piquets, guards and sentinels. Gen. Wayne, to
prevent their depredations on private property, supplied them with provisions, and he, with
Colonels Stewart and Butler, officers whom the soldiers respected and loved, followed and
mixed with them, to watch their motions and views, and they received from them respect
ful and civil treatment.
They proceeded in good order to Princeton. Three emissaries from Sir Henry Clinton
meeting them there, made liberal offers to entice them from the service of congress. The
offers were instantly rejected, and the emissaries seized and confined in close custody.
There they were also met by a committee of congress and a deputation from the state of
Pennsylvania. The latter granting a part of their demands, persuaded them to return to
their duty. The agents of Clinton were then given up, and immediately executed as spies.
Mount Holly, the seat of justice for Burlington county, is pleasantly situa
ted in a fertile country, 7 miles east from Burlington, with which it is con
nected by railroad, and 19 from Trenton. It contains about 2,000 inhabit
ants. It derives its name from a hill or mount near the village, called Mount
Holly, from the holly-trees growing upon it. This eminence, about 200 feet
above the level of the sea, is said to be the highest land in the southern por
tion of New Jersey. The courts of the county were removed here from Bur
lington in 1796.
Mount Holly was settled by Friends not long after the settlement of Bur
lington. A grist and saw mill was built on the north branch of the Rancocus at
an early date. It originally bore the name of Bridgetown, and previous to
the American revolution, was a village of 200 houses. At that period Mount
Holly was a place of considerable importance. The legislature for a time
held its sittings here ; and some British troops were quartered upon the in
habitants. William IV, the late king of Great Britain, then a young man,
was here with the British troops. The yellow-fever in Philadelphia in 1793,
and the massacre of St. Domingo, filled the town with a surplus population.
At this time Stephen Girard, "famous for his riches and gifts," landed at
Egg Harbor, came across the country on a peddling tour, and took up his
residence in the village, when he opened a cigar shop, and sold raisins by the
penny's worth to the children.- He is said to have been "a little, unnoticed
man, save that the beauty of his wife, whom he married here, worried and
alienated his mind."
Elizabethtown is 4 miles from Newark, on the New Jersey Railroad, be
tween New York and Philadelphia, 15 miles from the former and 72 from
the latter, and contains about 3,000 inhabitants. It received its name from
Lady Elizabeth Carteret, the wife and executrix of Sir George Carteret. It
was the third settlement made in New Jersey, and the first by the English.
The Borough of Elizabeth received its act of incorporation in 1739, during
the reign of George II, and it was for many years the largest and most flour
ishing place in the province. The first public buildings of the jurisdiction of
East Jersey, were here, and the first general assembly met here from 1668
to 1682. The First Presbyterian Church is the oldest congregation in the
state, organized for worship in the English language. During the revolution
NEW JERSEY.
491
CALDWELL MONUMENT.
this town was greatly harassed, and its church edifice, standing where the
First Presbyterian Church now stands, was fired by a refugee and burned to
the ground. The College of New Jersey, afterward located at Princeton,
commenced its existence here. The building in which its first exercises were
held, was also burnt down during the war.
Rev. James Caldwell, the pastor of the First Presbyterian Church at Eliz-
abethtown, was chaplain to those portions of the American army that suc
cessively occupied New Jersey. He was high in the
confidence of Washington, and in times of gloom
and despondency, he, by his eloquent and patriotic
appeals, contributed much to arouse and sustain the
spirits of the patriots. To avoid the dangers to
which he was constantly exposed from the tories and
the enemy, then in possession of New York and
Staten Island, he was compelled to remove his resi
dence to Connecticut Farms, about four miles from
Elizabethtown, where he resided until the day of his
murder.
On the 6th of June, 1780, while Gen. Knyphausen was on
his way to Springfield, Mrs. Caldwell was shot at Connecticut
Farms, by a refugee, through the window of a room to which
she had retired with her children for safety and prayer — two
balls passing through her body. Her lifeless and bleeding
body being laid in the open street, the building was fired, and
soon the little village was laid in ashes. And on the 24th of
November, 1781, Mr. Caldwell himself was shot at Elizabeth-
town Point, whither he had gone for a young lady who had
come under the protection of a flag of truce from New York.
Taking in his hand a little bundle, containing some articles of her clothing, he was com
manded by the sentinel to stop, which he hesitating to do, was shot by the ruffian through
the heart. His corpse was conveyed to the house of Mrs. Noel, at Elizabethtown, his un
wavering friend, whence it was buried — Dr. McWhorter, o,f Newark, preaching the funeral
sermon, from Eccl. viii, 8. He must have died in about the 40th year of his age, leaving
a name as dear to the country as to the church of Jesus Christ. Thus in less than two
years the congregation which he served was bereft of its church, and of the inestimable
wife of the pastor, and of the pastor himself. And as a proof of the estimation in which
he was held, his name was given to one of the towns of Essex county, N. J.
Mr. Caldwell was shot late on Saturday afternoon, and many of the people were ignorant
of the tragical deed until they came to church on the Sabbath ; and instead of sitting with
delight under his instructions, there was a loud cry of wailing over his melancholy end.
On the following Tuesday there was a vast concourse assembled to convey his remains to
the tomb. After the services were ended, the corpse was placed where all might take a last
view of their murdered pastor. Before the closing of the coffin, Dr. Elias Boudinot came
forward, leading a group of nine orphan children, and placing them around the bier of their
parent, made an address of touching eloquence to the multitude in their behalf. It was an
hour of deep and powerful emotion. The procession slowly moved to the grave, weeping
as they went. And as they lifted their streaming eyes to heaven, they besought the bless
ings of God upon the fatherless and motherless children, and his kind interference to crown
with success their efforts against their oppressors.
So deep was the impression made by this man upon the minds of the youth of his charge,
that after a lapse of sixty years their recollections of him are of the most vivid character.
His dress, appearance, conversation, manner of preaching, texts, are as fresh in their minds
as things of yesterday. And with a singular unanimity they agree in the following descrip
tion of him. He was of the middle size, and strongly built. His countenance had a pen
sive, placid cast, but when excited was exceedingly* expressive of resolution and energy.
His voice was sweet and pleasant, but at the same time so strong that he could make him
self heard above the notes of the drum and the fife. As a preacher he was uncommonly
eloquent and pathetic, rarely preaching without weeping himself; and at times he would
melt his whole audience into tears. He was among the most active of men, and seemed
never wearied by any amount of bodily or mental labor. Feelings of the most glowing pa-
492 NEW JERSEY.
triotism and of the most fervent piety possessed his bosom at the same time, without the
one interfering with the other. He was one day preaching to the battalion — the next march
ing with them to battle, and, if defeated, assisting to conduct their retreat — and the next,
administering the consolations of the gospel to some dying parishioner. His people were
most ardently attached to him, and the army adored him.
He was shot by a man called Morgan, who was tried and found guilty of murder It
giving
was proved on his trial that he was bribed to the murderous deed. He was hun
signs of the most obdurate villainy to the last. The day of his execution was Intensely
cold ; and a little delay taking place under the gallows, he thus addressed the executioner,
with an oath : " Do your duty, and don't keep me here shivering in the cold .'" The place of
his execution is about half a mile north of the church in Westfield, and is called Morgan's
Hill to this day.
The citizens of Elizabethtown have recently erected a new monument to
the memory of Mr. Caldwell and his -wife, of which the engraving annexed
is a representation. It is a handsome marble obelisk, which, with an in
scribed pedestal, rests upon a granite base. On the left of the engraving is
seen a recumbent slab ; this covers the grave of Jonathan Dickinson, the
founder of the College of New Jersey. The first of the following inscrip
tions was on the ancient monument erected in memory of Mr. and Mrs.
Caldwell — the second on the new :
Sacred to the memory of the Rev. JAMES CALDWELL and HANNAH his wife, who fell vic
tims to their country's cause in the years 1780 and 1781. He was the zealous and faith
ful pastor of the Presbyterian Church in this town, where, by his evangelical labors in the
gospel vineyard, and his early attachment to the civil liberties of his country, he has left
in the hearts of his people a better monument than brass or marble.
STOP, PASSENGER!
Here also lie the remains of a woman, who exhibited to the world a bright constellation
of the female virtues. On that memorable day, never to be forgotten, when a British foe
invaded this fair village, and fired even the temple of the Deity, this peaceful daughter of
Heaven retired to her hallowed apartment, imploring Heaven for the pardon of her enemies.
In that sacred moment she was, by the bloody hand of a British ruffian, dispatched, like
her divine Redeemer, through a path of blood, to her long-wished-for native skies.
East side — This monument is erected to the memory of the Rev. JAMES CALDWELL, the
pious and fervent Christian, the zealous and faithful minister, the eloquent preacher, and a
prominent leader among the worthies who secured the independence of his country. His
name will be cherished in the Church and in the State so long as virtue is esteemed and pa
triotism is honored.
West side — HANNAH, wife of Rev. James Caldwell, and daughter of Jonathan Ogden, of
Newa.rk, was killed at Connecticut Farms, by a shot from a British soldier, June 25, 1780,
cruelly sacrificed by the enemies of her husband and country.
North side — "The memory of the just is blessed." Be of good courage; let us behave
ourselves valiant for our people, and for the cities of our God, and let the Lord do what
seemeth good in his sight. " The glory of their childi'en are their fathers."
South side — James Caldwell. Born in Charlotte county, Virginia, April, 1734. Graduated
at Princeton College, 1759. Ordained pastor of the First Presbyterian Church of Elizabeth-
town, 1762. After serving as chaplain to the army of the Revolution, and acting as com
missary to the troops in New Jersey, he was killed by a shot from a sentinel at Elizabeth-
town Point, November 24, 1781.
Rahway, on the New Jersey Railroad, 10 miles south of Newark, is noted
for its manufactures, principally carriages. It is supposed to have derived
its name from Rahwack, an Indian chief who lived here, or in the vicinity.
Springfield is a pleasant village, 8 miles south-west of Newark. It was
burnt by the British, in June, 1780, at which time they had a skirmish with
the Americans, in which a few were killed on both sides.
NEW JERSEY. 493
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, ETC.
Abraham Clark, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in
1776, near Rahway. His principal occupations in early life were surveying,
conveyancing, and giving legal
advice. A naturally weak con-
stitution and delicate frame pre-
vented him from engaging in
any very laborious pursuit. He
paid some attention to the study
of law, gave advice gratuitously,
and by his generosity procured
for himself the honorable title of the "Poor jlfaw's Counselor" He suc
cessively held the office of high sheriff, commissioner for settling undivided
lands, and clerk of the colonial assembly. In 1776 he was a delegate to the
continental congress, and afterward a representative in the United States con
gress. He died in 1794, of a coup de soleil, or stroke of the sun, in the 69th
year of his age.
Richard Stockton, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born at
Princeton, October 1, 1730. He graduated at the College of New Jersey,
-. in 1748. and studied law in New-
ark. In 1766 he visited Great
Britain, where he was received
with flattering distinction by the
king and many eminent men.
r ^ • in niiiiMi 1 — Thus honored by the personal at-
v- ^ C.^-^/ tentions of royalty, and possessed
of an ample fortune, it was natu
rally presumed that he would have remained loyal ; but his patriotism pre
vailed, and he was elected to the general congress in 1776. When the Brit
ish were overrunning New Jersey, he hastened to his family and removed
them to the house of a friend, thirty miles distant. He was, however, cap
tured by a party of refugee royalists, dragged from his bed by night, plun
dered of his property, thrown into the common jail in New York, and treated
with such barbarity as to lay the foundation of the disease which terminated
in his death, February 28, 1781.
Francis Hopldnson, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born
in Philadelphia, in 1738, and at the time of the revolution resided in Bor-
dentown, having married
Arm Borden> daughter of
the founder of the town.
He was educated to the
law. In 1790 he was ap
pointed judge of the United States court for the district of Pennsylvania, and
died the succeeding year. He was distinguished for his vivacity and wit,
and published, during the revolution, several poetical pieces, which were
highly popular, among which was the "Battle of the Kegs." This ballad
was occasioned by a real incident. In January, 1778, while the British
troops were in possession of Philadelphia, certain machines, in the form of
kegs, charged with gunpowder, were sent down the river, to annoy their ship
ping, which was anchored before the city. The danger of these machines
being discovered, the British manned the wharves and vessels, and discharged
their small arms and cannon at everything they saw floating in the river.
494 NEW JERSEY.
John Hart, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Hope-
well, and was a deputy in the provincial congress in 1775. Soon after the
declaration of independence, when New
Jersey became the theater of war, he
was driven from the bedside of a dying
wife, and hunted through the wood, and
among the hills. " While Washington's
army was dwindling down to a mere
handful, this old man was carrying his gray hairs and infirmities about from
cottage to cottage, and from cave to cave, while his farm was pillaged, his
property plundered, his family afflicted and dispersed, wearing out his bodily
strength, and hastening the approach of decrepitude and death. Yet he
never despaired, never repented the course he had taken." He died in 1780,
being, it is believed, about 70 years of age.
John Witherspoon, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born
near Edinburgh, in Scotland, February 5, 1722. He was a lineal descendant
of John Knox, the great
rf ss/^ ^) /o Reformer. His father was
/*^? /^^^ * ^/S a minister of the Church of
/ ff^^ ' r Z-f-fi^fsi^J /l^7 &^* S a ,1 i i i
f / O^ Scotland, and took great
ff pains in educating his son
to the same profession. At
the age of fourteen he was placed in the University of Edinburgh. He la
bored in the ministry at Paisley, where he became widely known for his piety
and learning. In 1766 he accepted the unanimous invitation of the trustees
of the College of New Jersey to become its president, when his reputation
and exertions soon wrought a great change in its aifairs. On the invasion of
Now Jersey by the British troops, the institution was deserted. Dr. Wither
spoon was sent a delegate to the continental congress, and remained a mem
ber of that body until 1782. On the restoration of peace, he withdrew from
public life, except so far as his duties as a clergyman brought him before his
flock. For more than two years prior to his death he lost his sight, but dur
ing his blindness he was frequently led into the pulpit, where he always ac
quitted himself with his usual accuracy and animation. He died November
15, 1794.
William Livingston was born in the city of New York, about the year 1723,
graduated at YTale College in 1741, studied law, and, by his uncommon pow
ers of mind, soon rose to distinction. After holding several important of
fices in New York, he removed to New Jersey, where he was chosen a mem
ber of the first congress, in 1774, having previously distinguished himself by
his writings against the encroachments of Great Britain. In 1776, when
the inhabitants of New Jersey had deposed Franklin, the royal governor,
and formed a new constitution, Mr. Livingston was elected their first gov
ernor, and was annually elected to the office until his death. He was a del
egate to the convention that formed the constitution of the United States.
He died at his seat in Elizabethtown, July 25, 1790. Gov. Livingston was
from his youth remarkably plain and simple in his dress and manner. Be
side his political writings, he was the author of various essays upon miscel
laneous topics.
James Lawrence, a captain in the American navy was born in Burlington
in 1781, and became a midshipman at 16 years of age. He was the first
lieutenant under Decatur in the daring achievement of burning the Philadel-
NEW JERSEY. 495
phia in the harbor of Tripoli. He commanded the Chesapeake in the dias-
trous engagement with the British frigate, Shannon, off the harbor of Boston.
Receiving a mortal wound, he was carried below, when he uttered that im
mortal sentence, "Don't give up the ship!"
William Bainbridge, commodore in the American navy, was born in
Princeton, in 1774, and went to sea at 15 years of age, and at 25 was ap
pointed, for meritorious services, post captain in the navy. He was in com
mand of the frigate Philadelphia, in the Tripolitan war, when she ran upon
a reef of rocks in the harbor of Tripoli, and thus, with her crew, fell into
the possession of the enemy. Bainbridge and his crew remained in captivity
until the end of the war. After the capture of the Guerriere, Bainbridge
was transferred to the Constitution, and in her captured the British frigate
Java. In this action he was dangerously wounded. He died in 1833, at
which time he was president of the board of navy commissioners.
Richard Somers, "one of the bravest of the brave," captain in the Amer
ican navy, was born at Egg Harbor, and began life in a coasting vessel as a
common sailor. In 1796, when about the age of 18, he entered the navy as
a midshipman, and made his first cruise in company with Decatur; both
of them for the remainder of life became strong personal friends, and gener
ous professional rivals. In 1803 he was appointed to the command of the
Nautilus. When the American squadron, under Preble, was maintaining
the blockade against Tripoli, in 1804, he distinguished himself in its early
stages, as well as on the occasion in which he lost his life. At one time he
was engaged in a gunboat, within pistol-shot, against a force at least five
times superior. In the end the enemy were obliged to make off, and he
brought off his boat in triumph. On another occasion, as his boat was ad
vancing to her position, an incident occurred which marked his presence of
mind. Somers, while leaning against the flagstaff, saw a shot flying directly
in a line for him, and bowed his head to avoid it. The shot cut the staff, and
on measuring, it was certain he escaped death only by the timely removal.
Somers perished soon after, by the explosion of the fire-ship Intrepid, with
all of his crew, in the harbor of Tripoli. Somers possessed singularly chiv
alrous notions of duty and honor. As a proof of the estimation in which he
was held, several small vessels have been called after him; among others the
beautiful little brig Somers, which became the scene of a thrilling tragedy
on the high seas.
Daniel Morgan, general in the army of the revolution, and the commander
of the celebrated corps of Virginia, was born in New Jersey, and, it is be
lieved at Morristown. He removed to Virginia when quite young, and his
name and fame became honorably blended with the history of a state so pro
lific in great men in the council and in the field.
Zebulon Montgomery Pike, a brigadier-general in the United States army,
was born at Lamberton, in 1779, and early entered the army as cadet, and
soon after became a lieutenant. In 1805, government sent him with a party
of men to explore the Mississippi to its source; and in 1807, on a second ex
pedition in the direction of New Mexico. He commanded the expedition
against York, Canada, in the war of 1812, and was mortally wounded there
by the explosion of a magazine. The troops, who were thrown into confu
sion, soon recovered, and instantly formed again; and as a body of then,
passed by him, he said, "Push on, brave fellows, and avenge your general.'
While the surgeons were carrying him out of the field, a tumultuous huzza
496 NEW JERSEY.
was heard ; Pike turned his head, with an anxious look of inquiry : he was
told by a sergeant, "The British union-jack is coming down, general — the
stars are going up!" He heaved a heavy sigh and smiled. He was then car
ried on board the commodore's ship, where he lingered for a few hours. Just
before he breathed his last, the British standard was brought to him; he made
a sign to have it placed under his head, and expired without a groan. His
name is perpetuated in " Pike's Peak" and numerous counties and townships
throughout the west.
Stephen Watts Kearney, major-general in the United States army, was born
in Newark, in 1794; was first lieutenant of infantry in 1812, and distin
guished himself in the assault of Queenstown Hights. In the Mexican war
he commanded the division which marched overland to California, conquering;
New Mexico on his way, and was for awhile governor of California. He
died in 1848, at the age of 54, of a disease contracted in the service.
James Fennimore Cooper, the most eminent of American novelists, and the
most graphic writer of sea-life in the English language, was born in Burling
ton in 1789. When two years of age, his father removed with his family to
Otsego Lake, New York, and there founded the village of Cooperstown. In
1802^ young Cooper entered Yale, but remained a short time only. In 1806
he entered the navy as a midshipman, rose to the post of lieutenant, and re
signed in 1811. This five years' service gave him that nautical experience
which afterward came into such excellent use in his charming sea tales.
"The Spy" was his first successful book. His published works amounted to
thirty-three volumes. He died in 1851, aged 62 years; but "he still lives
in the hearts of grateful millions, whose spirits have been stirred within them
by his touching pathos, and whose love of country has been warmed into new
life by the patriotism of his eloquent pen."
John Lloyd Stephens, the most eminent American traveler, with perhaps a
single exception, of this century, was born at Shrewsbury, in 1805, and ed
ucated at Columbia College. His published travels in Asia, Africa, Europe,
and in Central America, have been widely popular on both continents. His
travels in Central America and Yucatan are said to be the richest contribu
tion ever made by any one man on the subject of American antiquities. The
last portion of his life was spent in his labors as president for the Panama
Railroad — the iron band which marries the Atlantic to the Pacific. He died
in New York in 1852, aged 47 years.
AN INDIAN'S BENEDICTION ON NEW JERSEY.
In the year 1832, a grant of $2,000 was applied for from the legislature of New Jersey,
by an aged Indian representing the Delaware tribe. He was named by his people Shaw-
uskukhkung, or Wilted Grass; by the whites he was known as Bartholomew S. Calvin.
The remnant of the Delawares had, at that time, removed to Green Bay, now in Wiscon
sin, where they had formed, in connection with the Stockbridge Indians, a joint settlement
called Statesborough. These, cherishing a tradition respecting their hunting and fishing
rights in New Jersey, delegated B. S. Calvin to obtain from the legislature compensation
for their relinquishment. In presenting his claims, he accompanied them with a petition
in his favor, signed by a considerable number of respectable citizens, and the following
address, written with his own hand, he being then 76 years of age:
ADDRESS.
MY BRETHREN — I am old, and weak, and poor, and therefore a fit representative of my
people. You are young, and^' strong, and rich, and therefore fit representatives of your
people. But let m'e beg you for a moment to lay aside the recollections of your strength
and of our weakness, that your minds may be prepared to examine with candor the subject
o^-our claims.
Our tradition informs us, and I believe it corresponds with your records, that the right
of fishing in all the rivers and bays south of the Raritan, and of hunting in all uninclosed
NEW JERSEY.
497
lands, was never relinquished, but on the contrary was expressly reserved in our last treaty,
held at Crosswicks, in 1758.
Having myself been one of the parties to the sale, I believe in 1801, I know that these
rights were not sold or parted with.
We now offer to sell these priviliges to the state of New Jersey. They were once of great
value to us, and we apprehend that neither time nor distance, nor the non-use of our rights,
has at all affected them, but that the courts hero would consider our claims valid, were we
to exercise them ourselves, or delegate them to others. It is not, however, our wish thus to
excite litigation. We consider the state legislature the proper purchaser, and throw our
selves upon its benevolence and magnanimity, trusting that feelings of justice and liber
ality will induce you to give us what you deem a compensation.
And as we have ever looked up to the leading characters of the United States (and to
the leading characters of this state in particular), as our fathers, protectors, and friends, we
now look up to you as such, and humbly beg that you will look upon us with that eye of
pity, as we have reason to think our poor untutored forefathers looked upon yours, when
they first arrived upon our then extensive but uncultivated dominions, and sold them their
lands, in many instances, for trifles in comparison as " light as air."
From your humble petitioners, BARTHOLOMEW S. CALVIN,
In behalf of himself and his red brethren.
The whole subject was referred to a committee, before whom the Hon. Samuel L. South
ard voluntarily and ably advocated the claims of the Delawares, and at the close of a
speech which did him honor as a man and an orator, he remarked, "That it was a proud
fact in the history of New Jersey, that every foot of her soil had been obtained from the Indi
ans by fair and voluntary purchase and transfer, a fact that no other state of the Union, not
even the land which bears the name of Penn, can boast of."
The committee reported favorably, and the legislature acted accordingly. The sum he
received ($2,000) was indeed not large, yet it was all he solicited; and considering the na
ture of the claims, it must be regarded as an act of beneficence as much as of justice. It
was, however, but the crowning act of a series in which justice and kindness to the In
dians have been kept steadily in view. The counsels of Barclay and of Penn (the former
a governor and the latter a proprietor of the colony), seemed to have influenced their suc
cessors, and it is with feelings of honest pride that a Jerseyman may advert to the fact,
that the soil of his state is unpolluted by a battle with the Indians, "that every acre of it
has been fairly purchased, and that all claims have been listened to with respectful attention.
The following letter of thanks was addressed to the legislature by Calvin, and read be
fore the houses in joint session on March 14th. It was received with shouts of acclamation:
TRENTON, March 12, 1832.
" Bartholomew S. Calvin takes this method to return his thanks to both houses of the
state legislature, and especially to their committees, for their very respectful attention to,
and candid examination of the Indian claims which he was delegated to present.
The final act of official intercourse between the state of New Jersey and the Delaware
Indians, who once owned nearly the whole of its territory, has now been consummated, and,
in a manner which must redound to the honor of this growing state, and, in all probability,
to the prolongation of the existence of a wasted, yet grateful people. Upon this parting
occasion, I feel it to be an incumbent duty to bear the feeble tribute of my praise to the
high-toned justice which, in this instance, and, so far as I am acquainted, in all former
times, has actuated the councils of this commonwealth in dealing with the aboriginal in
habitants.
Not a drop of our blood have you spilled in battle — not an acre of our land have you
taken but by our consent. These facts speak for themselves, and need no comment. They
place the character of New Jersey in bold relief and bright example to those states within
whose territorial limits our brethren still remain. Nothing save benisons can fall upon
her from the lips of a Lenni Lenappi.
There may be some who would despise an Indian benediction ; but when I return to my
people, and make known to them the result of my mission, the ear of the great Sovereign
of the Universe, which is still open to our cry, will be penetrated with our invocation of
blessings upon the generous sons of New Jersey.
To those gentlemen, members of the legislature, and others who have evinced their kind
ness to me, I can not refrain from paying the unsolicited tribute of my heart-felt thanks.
Unable to return them any other compensation, I fervently pray that God will have them
in His holy keeping — will guide them in safety through the vicissitudes of this life, and
ultimately, through the rich mercies of our blessed Kedeemer, receive them into the glorious
entertainment of his kingdom above."
It ought not to be omitted that Calvin was educated at Princeton, at the expense of the
Scotch Missionary Society, and there remained in the pursuit of his studies till the com
mencement of hostilities between the colonies and the mother country, when he shouldered
his musket and marched against the common enemy.
PENNSYLVANIA.
ARMS OF PENNSYLVANIA.
THE Dutch were the first adventurers who attempted to colonize the
country lying on Delaware Bay and River. Although they aspired to pos
sess and rule the country, their claims
were contested by the Swedes in 1631;
and the English from New Haven in
1640. These Swedes laid out the
present town of New Castle, and built
a fort and commenced a settlement at
Christiana, now Wilmington, Dela
ware. They also constructed a num
ber of other forts northward of this,
within the present limits of Pennsyl
vania.
In 1655, the Dutch at New Am
sterdam, now New York, under the
command of Gov. Stuyvesant, with a
fleet of six or seven vessels, and 700
men, sailed for the Delaware, and took
possession of the Swedish settlements.
The Dutch in their turn, were sub
dued by the English. In 1664, King Charles II granted a patent to his
brother James, duke of York and Albany. This tract comprised what the
Dutch claimed as New Netherlands, which extended to the settlements on
the Delaware.
In 1675, the western part of Pennsylvania was sold to Edward Bylinge, of
the Society of Friends, to whom William Penn, a member of the same so
ciety, became a trustee ; by which means he got well acquainted with this
part of the country. At his solicitation, and in recompense for the unpaid
services which his father, Admiral Penn, had rendered the crown, this tract
was, in 1681, granted to him by the king, who named the country Pennsyl
vania.
William Penn having thus come into possession, and being desirous of
founding a colony, in a public advertisement described the country, and set
forth the advantages which it offered to the inhabitants, which induced many
persons, chiefly Friends or Quakers, to purchase. He offered his lands at
the rate of forty shillings sterling for one hundred acres, and one shilling per
annum forever; and good conditions of settlement to those who chose to
become adventurers in the new country. He also wrote to the Indian natives,
informing them of his desire to live in peace and brotherly love with all man
kind; "and if any difference should happen between them, it might be ad
justed by an equal number of men, chosen on both sides."
32 (499)
500 PENNSYLVANIA.
In April, 1682, Penn published a frame of government, the chief object of
which was declared to be " to support power in reverence with the people.
and to secure the people from the abuse of power." He also published a
body of laws, which had been examined and approved by the emigrants in
England; and which, says an eminent historian, "does great honor to their
wisdom as statesmen, to their morals as men, and to their spirit as colonists."
From the duke of York, Penn obtained the relinquishment of a tract of land
lying on the south side of the Delaware, a part of which had been already
settled, and in August, accompanied by about 2,000 emigrants, he sailed for
America.
He landed first at New Castle, Delaware, which was a part of the "terri
tories " conveyed to him by the duke. He then proceeded to Chester, then
called "Upland," where he held the first assembly. This body then annexed
the territories (now comprising Delaware) to the province, adopted the frame
of government, and enacted in form a body of laws. Penn also made a treaty
with the Indians, and purchased as much land as the circumstances of the
colony required. He selected the site, and marked out the plan of an ex
tensive city, to which he gave the name of "Philadelphia," or the city of
brotherly love. Before the end of the year it contained eighty houses and
cottages.
In 1683, a second assembly was held, and at the request of the freemen
and delegates, Penn granted them a second charter, which diminished the
number of the council and assembly, and was in other respects different from
the first. It was ordained "that to prevent law suits, three arbitrators, to
be called peacemakers, should be chosen by the county courts, to hear and
determine small differences between man and man: that children should be
taught some useful trade, to the end that none might be idle, that the poor
might work to live, and the rich learn how to work if they should become
poor: that factors wronging their employers, should make satisfaction and
one third over : that everything which excites the people to rudeness, cru
elty, and irreligion should be discouraged and severely punished : that no
one, acknowledging one God, and living peaceably in society, should be mo
lested for his opinions, or his practice, or compelled to frequent or maintain
any ministry whatever." These and other judicious regulations attracted
many emigrants, and within four years from the date of the grant of Penn,
the province contained twenty settlements, and Philadelphia 2,000 inhabi
tants.
In 1684, Penn returned to England, where his enemies, taking advantage
of his absence, had thrown his affairs into a critical situation. He left his
province in a tranquil state, under the administration of five commissioners,
chosen from the council. The unfortunate James II, soon after ascended
the throne. "As he has," said Penn, "been my friend, and my father's
friend, I feel in justice to be a friend to him." He adhered to king James
while he remained on the throne, and for two years after he was expelled
from his kingdom, the government of Pennsylvania was administered in his
name. By this display of attachment, Penn incurred the displeasure of
King William, and on suspicion and unfounded charges, he was four times
imprisoned. The government of his colony was taken from him and given
to Col. Fletcher, the governor of New York. After many persecutions, Penn
was permitted to make his own defense before the king and council. He
succeeded in removing all unfavorable impressions, and being reinstated in his
rights as proprietary and governor, he sent out William Markham as his deputy.
PENNSYLVANIA. 501
In August, 1699, William Perm, with his family, embarked for his pro
vince. He was nearly three months at sea; but this delay was providential —
for he did not arrive until the yellow fever, which had been raging in the
colony, had ceased; and of which Thomas Storey, an eminent Quaker
preacher of the time, thus speaks :
" Great was the majesty and hand of the Lord ; great was the fear that fell upon
all flesh. I saw no lofty or airy countenance, nor heard any vain jesting to move
men to laughter; nor witty repartee to raise mirth; nor extravagant feasting, to
excite the lusts and desires of the flesh above measure ; but every face gathered
paleness, and many hearts were humbled, and countenances fallen and sunk, and
such that waited every moment to be summoned to the bar and numbered to the
grave."
The proprietor and his family were cordially received by the inhabitants.
Nevertheless the numerous civil dissensions during his absence, and the con
duct of his own deputy governor, created much discontent among the people.
Many things were wanting in the laws of the province, and the property of
the land owners was not yet fully secured. Immoralities had increased; and
the offense of fostering contraband trade, and even piracy, was charged upon
the colony by its enemies. In 1701, Penn, at the request of the people,
prepared a new charter, which was accepted by the assembly. It
gave to that body the right of originating bills, which by the previous
charters belonged to the governor alone, and of amending or rejecting those
which might be laid before them. To the governor it gave the right of re
jecting bills passed by the assembly, of appointing his own council, and of
exercising the whole of the executive power. The territories, now the State
of Delaware, refusing to accept the new charter, separated from Pennsyl
vania, and were allowed a distinct assembly. The same governor, however,
presided over both.
Immediately after granting his third and last charter, Penn returned to
England, where he remained until his death, in 1717. The executive au
thority was administered by deputy governors, appointed by the proprietor.
The people incessantly murmured and complained ; but the uninterrupted
and great prosperity of the colony demonstrates that but slight occasion for
complaint existed. The greatest cause of irritation among the colonists was
the refusal of the deputy governors to assent to any law imposing taxes on
the lands of the proprietors, although those sought to be raised were to be
expended for the benefit of the whole province.
Upon the death of Penn, the government was managed by his heirs. Dur
ing this period, new principles of action sprung up in the colony. After the
Protestant succession in England by the revolution of 1688, the Friends or
Quakers were no longer compelled to go to America to avoid persecution ;
while a new set of men, bent more on making their fortunes than upon the
promotion of high religious principles, were induced to emigrate. These
were either of the Church of England or Presbyterians from Scotland and
Ireland, and were not averse to bearing arms. The adventurous traders of
New England, trained in the school of Puritan republicanism, came also to
seek their fortunes. The Mennonists or German Baptists, a sect which ad
hered to the principle of non-resistance, persecuted in Europe, and driven
from one country to another, sought the toleration of Penn's colony, and
emigrated between the years 1698 and 1717 — many in the latter year set
tling in Lancaster, Berks, and the upper parts of Chester county. The Duu-
kards, also a nonresistant sect, began to emigrate about the year 1718, and
afterward established a sort of monastery and convent at Ephrata, in Lan-
502 PENNSYLVANIA.
caster county. The Lutheran Germans, who, on the other hand, were not
averse to fighting when occasion required it, began now to emigrate in greater
numbers, settling principally in Berks and Lancaster counties. This diver
sity of people, languages, civil and religious prejudices, planted the seeds of
strife, which agitated the province for more than fifty years, terminating
only in the American Revolution.
In 1754, the proprietors at Albany purchased of the Six Nations all the
land within the State not previously obtained. The Shawanees, Delawares
and Monseys on the Susquehanna, Juniata, Alleghany and Ohio rivers, thus
found their lands sold from under their feet, which the Six Nations had
guaranteed to them on their removal from the eastern waters. The Indians
on the Alleghany at once went over to the French. To allay the dissatisfac
tion resulting from this purchase, all the lands north and west of the Alle
ghany Mountains were restored to the Indians, by the treaty at Easton, in
1758. After the defeat of Gen. Braddock, in 1753, the Indians ravaged the
whole western frontier of Pennsylvania.
During the French war, Gen. Forbes was charged with an expedition
against Fort Duquesne, to be aided by the provincial troops of Pennsylvania
and Virginia, under Cols. Washington and Bouquet. To effect their object,
a road was cut through the province of Pennsylvania, on the line of the
present Chambersburg and Pittsburg Turnpike. Many weeks were consumed
in the work ; but at length the army, consisting of 7.859 men, penetrated
the thick forest, and on reaching the Ohio, found the fort deserted by the
French, who had fled down the river, thus abandoning forever their domin
ion in Pennsylvania.
In the early part of the revolutionary war the people adopted a new con
stitution, by which the heirs of Penn were excluded from all share of the
government; and the quit rents due from the inhabitants were finally dis
charged, by paying to the representatives of his family the sum of $570,000.
The population of Pennsylvania at this time was estimated at over 300,000.
In September, 1777, Pennsylvania became the theater of war. The battle
of Brandy wine was fought on the llth of that month, in which the Ameri
cans were defeated; and on the 27th, Philadelphia was taken by Sir William
Howe. The battle of Germantown, adjoining Philadelphia, fought on the
4th of October, was unfortunate to the Americans. In June, 1778, the Brit
ish troops evacuated Philadelphia, and marched into New Jersey, and were
pursued by the Americans across the state to Monmouth, from whence they
sought shelter in New York.
In 1794, the "Whisky Insurrection," so called, took place in the four
western counties, to resist the laws of the United States laying duties on dis
tilled spirits. On the approach of a respectable force, in October, and by the
happy union of firmness and lenity on the part of President Washington, the
insurgents were induced to lay down their arms and receive pardon. In
1799 the seat of the state government was removed from Philadelphia to
Lancaster ; and that of the Federal government was removed from Philadel
phia to Washington City. In 1812 the seat of the state government was
removed to Harrisburg.
Pennsylvania, from her central position and her natural and improved re
sources and advantages, is one of the most important states of the Union. It
is bounded on the N. by Lake Erie and the state of New York; on the E. by
PENNSYLVANIA. 503
New Jersey, from which it is separated by the Delaware River; on the S. by
Delaware, Maryland and Virginia; on the W. by Virginia and Ohio. It is
in length about 310 miles from E. to W., and about 160 in width from N. to
g. — its area, 46,000 square miles.
The state presents a great variety of surface. Much of it is undulating
and hilly, and in many parts it is mountainous. The Alleghany Mountains
cross the state from S. W. to N. E.; and there are many smaller ranges on
each side of the principal ridge, and parallel to it. The Blue Mountain, or
Kittatinny, enters the state from New Jersey, and is broken by the Dela
ware at Water Gap, further west by a pass called Wind Gap, ancl by the Le-
high, Schuylkill and Susquehanna in the vicinity of Harrisburg. Its eleva
tion varies from 800 to 1,500 feet above the sea level. Westward of the
Alleghanies are the Laurel and Chestnut Mountains. The land throughout
Pennsylvania is generally of a good quality. The grazing districts furnish
large numbers of horses and cattle. Extensive and fertile tracts lie along
the margin of the rivers; vast quantities of wheat and other grains are raised,
with every species of fruit and vegetables common to the middle states.
The Delaware River is navigable for ships-of-the-line to Philadelphia. The
Lehigh, after a course of 75 miles, enters the Delaware at Easton. The
Schuylkill, 130 miles long, unites with it 6 miles below Philadelphia. The
Susquehanna, a large river which rises in New York, flows S. through the
state, and enters the Chesapeake Bay in Maryland; it is much obstructed
by falls and rapids. The Juniata-rises among the Alleghany Mountains, and
after a course of 180 miles, enters the Susquehanna near Harrisburg. The
Alleghany River, 400 miles long, from the N., and the Monongahela, 300
miles from the S., unite at Pittsburg, and form the Ohio.
The great mineral product of Pennsylvania is coal. Anthracite coal is
mined in the different districts of the vast coal region extending 60 miles
north-easterly from the north branch of the Susquehanna, with a breadth of
16 to 18 miles, occupying an area of nearly 1,000 square miles, and, in many
places, from 50 to 60 feet in depth. West of the Alleghanies is a still more
extensive tract, embracing an area of 21,000 square miles, in which are em
bedded vast quantities of bituminous coal. Pennsylvania, it is estimated,
contains three times as much coal as the whole of the island of Great
Britain, and the annual value of her coal trade amounts to many millions
of dollars.
Almost every county contains deposits of iron in some form, and the
state is said to produce nearly one half of the iron manufactured in the United
States. Pennsylvania is the second state in population in the Union, being
exceeded only by New York; in 1790 it was the most populous state next
to Virginia: its population then was 434,373; in 1820, 1,348,233; in 1840,
1,724,033; in 1850, 2,311,786, and in 1860, 2,913,041.
PHILADELPHIA, the metropolis of Pennsylvania, and the second city in
population and manufactures in the union, is in lat. 39° 56' 59"; N.
long, from Greenwich 75° 9' 54" W. It is situated between the Delaware
and Schuylkill rivers, 5 miles above their junction, 93 miles E. by S. from
Harrisburg, 87 from New York, 98 from Baltimore, 357 from Pittsburg, and
136 from Washington. The main part of the city is on a plain, the highest
point of which is elevated 64 feet above the ordinary high-water mark in the
river. The city is 100 miles from the ocean by the course of the Delaware.
Philadelphia has an extensive foreign and still greater domestic trade. By
504
PENNSYLVANIA.
means of railroads and canals, it possesses facilities for communication with
an immense extent of country. The streets are all straight, cross each other
at right angles, are well paved, and kept remarkably clean. The principal
streets are Market- street, 100 feet wide, running from E. to W. from river to
river, nearly through the center of the city; Broad-street, 113 feet wide, run
ning N. and S., a little west of the middle; Arch, N. of Market-street, 66 feet
wide; the others 50 feet. It has an unusual number of beautiful public
parks, which are planted with trees and embellished with fountains. The
peculiar divisions of Philadelphia were formerly such that its suburbs had a
greater population than the city proper, which in 1850 had only 121,376 in
habitants, while the districts of Northern Liberties, Spring Garden, Kensing
ton, Southwark, Moyamensing and West Philadelphia, had more than 224,-
000. These divisions being consolidated in 1854, the city now includes the
whole county. The population of the whole county, including the city, was,
in 1790, 54,391; in 1820, 139,027; in 1840, 258,037; in 1860, 568,034.
The Old State House, or Independence Hall.
The engraving shows the building as it appeared in 1774.
The buildings are chiefly of brick, built in a plain and uniform style.
Some of the public edifices, of white marble and free-stone, are distin
guished for beauty and grandeur. The houses are generally on a uniform
plan, three stories high, of brick, with marble steps, and basements. Inde
pendence Hall, within which the colonial congress declared the independence
of the United States, on the 4th of July, 1776, and which was read from its
steps that day to the assembled multitude, now presents nearly the same ap
pearance as then. This building, formerly the state house, fronts on Chesnut-
street, having Independence-square in its rear. It was commenced in 1729,
and finished in 1735. In 1774, most of the wood-work of the old steeple was
taken down, being much decayed, leaving only a small belfry to cover the
town clock. The bell for this steeple was imported from England in 1752, but
was cracked on its first ringing; a new one was cast in Philadelphia, under
the direction of Isaac Norris, at that time speaker of the colonial assembly,
who, it is stated, caused this passage, from Lev. xxv, 10, to be placed upon
it, which proved prophetic of its future use : " Proclaim LIBERTY throughout
the land, unto all the inhabitants thereof" This was nearly a quarter of a
century before independence was declared; yet, when the declaration was
PENNSYLVANIA.
505
signed, this identical bell was the first by its merry peal to " proclaim Lib
erty throughout the land." The room in which the declaration was signed,
still presents its ancient appearance. Within this edifice was held the con-
Eastern view of the Merchants1 Exchange, Philadelphia.
The Merchants' Exchange is built of white marble, and is a beautiful specimen of architecture. The
semi-circular colonnade, shown in the view, of eight noble pillars of pure white marble, presents a mag
nificent aspect as seen on approaching the building from the cast. The Philadelphia postoffice is in the
basement, and the great hall of the Exchange above, comprising the semi-rotunda, with a part of the main
building.
vention which formed the constitution of the United States, some of the first
sessions of congress, and here Washington delivered his "Farewell Address."
506 PENNSYLVANIA.
The custom house, formerly the United States Bank, on Chesnut-street, is
a splendid marble edifice, in imitation of the Parthenon at Athens. It was
completed in 1824, at the expense of half a million of dollars. The Mer
chants' Exchange is an elegant building of white marble ; in the basement
is the postoffice. The United States Navy-yard, in the south part of the
city, occupies an area of 12 acres, and is supplied with all the modern ap
pointments for ship-building; attached to it? is a sectional dry-dock. The
United States Mint is a fine edifice of brick. The United States Naval Asy
lum, established in 1835, occupies a beautiful site near the Schuylkill River,
in Moyamensing district. Fort Mifflin, on a small island, in the Delaware,
1 J miles below the Schuylkill, defends the city. The United States Arsenal,
near Frankford, is an immense establishment, used for the storage and man
ufacture of the munitions of war.
The city contains 225 churches, many of them fine specimens of architect
ure. The benevolent and charitable institutions are very numerous. One of
the oldest and most respectable is the Pennsylvania Hospital, founded in
1751. The Insane Asylum, a branch of the hospital, is about two miles west
from the Schuylkill. The Pennsylvania Institution for the Instruction of
the Blind, also the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, are within the city.
Among the literary institutions, the University of Pennsylvania is one of the
oldest and most considerable. The public schools are numerous : at the head
of these stands the high school. There is, also, a normal school, having a
principal and 10 professors. In all, there are about 200 schools, furnishing
the means of a good common education to over 70,000 scholars. The Girard
(College for Orphans, endowed by the late Stephen Girard with two millions
of dollars, was commenced July 4, 1833. It consists of a great central tem
ple, with two buildings on each side of it for teachers and pupils. The
grounds contain about 41 acres, surrounded by a wall 10 feet high.
Philadelphia is distinguished as the medical metropolis of the Union. Of
medical colleges, it contains the first established in the United States, which,
with the other numerous institutions, are by far the most flourishing and
important in the Union. The number of medical works and journals here
published, is probably equal to the combined number in all the other cities
of the country. The libraries of the various medical colleges, are large and
very valuable, as also are their anatomical museums and cabinets : very great
advantages are aiforded for clinical instruction, by the various hospitals, dis
pensaries, etc. Nearly all the various medical institutions in the city, have
large and commodious edifices. The total number of students attending the
different medical colleges, is usually about 1,400.
Among the scientific and literary institutions, is the American Philosophi-
t-al Society, the oldest scientific association in the United States, being origi
nated principally by Dr. Franklin, in 1743. It has a very large and
valuable library : an extensive cabinet of medals, engravings, maps, eto. Its
published transactions are widely appreciated. The Philadelphia Library
Company, instituted in 1731, principally by Dr. Franklin, has one of the
most extensive libraries in this country. In 1792, it received the valuable
library of Hon. James Logan, now amounting to 10,000 volumes. These li
braries united, comprise about 80,000 volumes, and are constantly increas
ing. The Atheneum organized in 1814; the Mercantile Library established
in 1821; the Apprentices' Library, founded in 1819, all have extensive libra
ries. There are also several associations, institutes, colleges, etc., in differ
ent parts of the city, having considerable libraries, making a total of 271,081
PENNSYLVANIA.
507
volumes. The Academy of Natural Sciences, has the largest museum of
natural history in America. It has 25,000 specimens in ornithology alone,
and 30,000 in botany. The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, organ
ized in 1807, contains rare sculptures and valuable paintings, and holds
annual exhibitions.
The Fairmount Water-works are situated on the left bank of the Schuylkill,
two miles from the center of the city, and have been in operation since 1822.
A dam, erected in 1819, extends across the river, 1,248 feet long; the water
is thus turned into an artificial forebay, 419 feet long and 90 feet wide, from
whence it falls upon and turns eight wheels from 16 to 18 feet in diameter,
each having its separate pump with power sufficient to raise 1,500,000 gal
lons in 24 hours, to the reservoirs on the summit of the hill, 100 feet above
tide-water, and 56 feet above the highest ground in the city. From these
reservoirs (which are capable of containing 22,000,000 of gallons) the water
is distributed throughout the city by iron pipes. On the summit slopes of
the hill, neat graveled walks are arranged, and at the base of the precipice,
in spaces not occupied by machinery, a garden has been laid out, tastefully
decorated with flowers, shrubbery, etc. From the summit, there is a mag
nificent prospect of the city. The northern part of the city is supplied by
water from the Schuylkill, raised by steam power about a mile above Fair-
mount. The Laurel Hill Cemetery, on the banks of the Schuylkill, four
miles from the State House, is laid out with great beauty and grandeur. At
the entrance there is an imposing gateway in the Doric style, and just with
in the entrance is a group of statuary by Thorn, representing Sir Walter
Scott, conversing with Old Mortality.
The Swedes were the first civilized people who located themselves within
the present limits of Philadelphia. The first house was built at an early
period, possibly as early as 1630.
The records show that the south
ern part of Philadelphia, includ
ing the navy yard and vicinity,
was originally possessed by the
Swedish family of Sven, the chief
of which was Sven Schute, a ti
tle equivalent to commandant.
The family name (Sven sons)
was successively altered, until it
was called Swanson. The origi
nal log house of the sons of Sven,
anciently called "The Swedes'
House" was on a knoll or hill
(now leveled), on the north-west
The annexed engraving is partially
son's Annals of Philadelphia. The Swedes' Church, the
first erected, is on the left, the house of Sven Sener on the
right.
THE SWEDES CHURCH AND HOUSE OF SVEN SKNEB.
partially copied from Wat-
Beck's alley, a little north of the
Swedes' church. It remained as
a relic of antiquity, until the British troops occupied Philadelphia; when it
was taken down for fuel. It is described as having been one and a half
story high, with a piazza all around it, four rooms on a floor, and a very
large fire place with seats in each jamb. The first Swedes' church at Wicca-
co (now South wark), was built on the present site, in 1677, five years before
nn'C Hnlnr^r ™rv>o « loop-holes m HeU of
Penn's Colony came.
508 PENNSYLVANIA.
lights, which might serve for fire arms in case of need. The congregation,
also, was accustomed to bring fire arms with them to prevent surprise, but
ostensibly to use for any wild game which might happen in their way in
coming from various places."
After William Penn had landed at Chester, the tradition is that he sailed
up from thence to Wiccaco in an open boat with a few friends, in the latter
part of Nov. 1682. At Wiccaco he found dwelling there three Swedes,
brothers, by the name Swenson, of whom he afterward purchased the site of
the city, giving them other lands in exchange. The site of the city, at that
day, presented a high bold bank along the Delaware, fringed with a grove of
tall pine trees. The early Jersey colonists had noticed this place. Proud,
in history, states that —
"In the 10th month, 0. S. (Dec.), 1678, arrived the Shield, from Hull, Daniel
Towes commander, and anchored before Burlington. This was the first ship that
came so far up the River Delaware. Opposite to Coaquanock, the Indian name of
the place where Philadelphia now stands, which was a bold and high shore, she
went so near it, in turning, that part of the tackling struck the trees — some of the
passengers expressing, 'It was a fine situation for a town.'
In this bank many of the first and early adventurers had their caves, or holes,
for their residence, before any houses were built, or better accommodations pre
pared for them. The first house erected on this plot of ground, was built by Geo.
Guest, and not finished at the time of the proprietor's arrival. This house was
then building in Budd's row, near that called Powell's dock. He, for many years
afterward, kept a tavern there called the Blue Anchor.
John Key — was said to b(; the first born child of English parents in Philadel
phia, and that in compliment of which William Penn gave him a lot of ground —
died at Kennet, in Chester county, on the 5th of July, 1767, in the 85th year of
his age; where his corpse was interred, in the Quaker's burying ground, the next
day, attended by a great concourse of people. He was born in a cave, long after
ward known by the name of Penny-pot, near Sassafras street. I have seen him
myself more than once, in the city — to which, about six years before his death, he
walked on foot, from Kennet (about 30 miles), in one day. In the latter part of
his life he generally, in the city, went under the name of first-born.
In the latter part of the year 1682,* the propietary, having finished his business
with the Indians, undertook, with the assistance of his surveyor-general, Thomas
Holme, to lay out a place for the city.
The following is an extract, from Thomas Holme's description :
' The city, as the model shows, consists of a large Front street on each river, and
a High street near the middle, from river to river, of 100 feet broad; and a Broad
*It is thought by others that the city was not fully laid out until 1683, as Penn says in
his letter to the society of free traders, 16th Aug., 1683, Philadelphia — the expectation of
those that are concerned in this province — is, at last, laid out, to the great content of those
here that are any ways interested therein. I say little of the town itself, because a plat
form will be shewn you by my agent, in which those, who are purchasers of me, will find
their names and interests. But this I will say, for the good providence of God, that, of all
the many places I have seen in the world, I remember not one better seated; so that it
seems to me to have been appointed for a town, whether we regard the rivers, or the cou-
veniency of the coves, docks, springs, the loftiness and soundness of the land, and the air,
held by the people of these parts to be very good. It is advanced, within less than a year,
to about four-score houses and cottages, such as they are, where merchants and handicrafts
are following their vocations as fast as they can, while the countrymen are close at their
farms. Some of them got a little winter corn in the ground last season; and the generality
have had a handsome summer crop, and are preparing for their winter corn. They reaped
their barley, this year, in the month called May — the wheat in the month following; so
that there is time, in these parts, for another crop of divers things before the winter season.
We are daily in hopes of shipping, to add to our number; for, blessed be God, here is both
room and accommodation for them. I bless God, I am fully satisfied with the country, and
entertainment I got in it; for I find that particular content which hath alway.s attended me
where God, in his providence, hath made it my place and service to reside.
PENNSYLVANIA. 599
street, in the middle of the city, from side to side, of the like breadth. In the cen
ter of the city is a square of 10 acres, at each angle to build houses for public af
fairs. There is also, in each quarter of the city, a square of eight acres, to be for
the like uses as Moorfields, in London; and eight streets, besides the said High
street, that run from river to river, or from Front to Front; and 20 streets, besides
the Broad street and two Front streets, that run across the city from side to side.
All these streets are 50 feet broad.'
William Penn — in answer to a remonstrance and address to him from several
of the adventurers, freeholders, and inhabitants, in the city of Philadelphia, re
specting fas front, or bank lots along the side of Delaware, who claimed the privi
lege to build vaults, or stores, in the bank, against their respective lots — thus ex
presses himself, in 1684: 'The bank is a top common, from end to end. The
rest, next the water, belongs to front-lot men no more than back-lot men. The
way bounds them. They may build stairs, and, at the top of the bank, a common
exchange, or walk — and against the street common wharves may be built freely; but
into the water, and the shore, is no purchaser's.'
Within the space of the first year, after the proper requisites for a regular set
tlement were obtained, between 20 and 30 sail of ships, with passengers, arrived
in the province — including those which came before, and about the same time
with the proprietary. The settlers amounted to such a large number, that the
parts near Delaware were peopled in a very rapid manner — even from about the
falls of Trenton, down to Chester, near 50 miles on the river ; besides the settle
ments in the lower counties, which, at the same time, were very considerable.
As the first colonists were generally Quakers, and in their native country had
suffered much on account of their religion, both in person and property, their
great and primary concern is said to have been the continuance and support of
their religious public worship, in every part of the country, where they made set
tlements, in such manner as their situation and circumstances then permitted."
In this, 1781, and the two next succeeding years, 1782-83, arrived ships, with
passengers or settlers, from London, Bristol, Ireland, Wales, Cheshire, Lanca
shire, Holland, Germany, etc., to the number of about 50 sail. Among those from
Germany, were some Friends, or Quakers, from Krisheim, or Cresheim, a town
not far from Worms, in the Palatinate. They had been early convinced of the
religious principles of the Quakers, by the preaching of William Ames, an English
man ; for which they had borne a public testimony there, until the present time —
when they all removed to Pennsylvania, and settled about six or seven miles dis
tant from Philadelphia, a place which they called Germantown.
These adventurers were not all young persons, able to endure the hardships un
avoidable in subduing a wilderness, or as equally regardless of convenient accom
modations as young, healthy, and strong men, accustomed to labor and disappoint
ment; but there were amon^ them, persons advanced in years, with women and
children, and such as, in their native country, had lived well, and enjoyed ease and
plenty.
Their first business, after their arrival, was to land their property, and put it
under such shelter as could be found ; then, while some of them got warrants of
survey, for taking up so much land as was sufficient for immediate settling, others
went diversely further into the woods, to the different places where their lands
were laid out, often without any path or road to direct them — for scarce any were
to be found above two miles from the water side — not so much as any mark or sign
of any European having been there. As to the Indians, they seldom traveled so
regularly as to be traced or followed by footsteps; except, perhaps, from one of
their towns to another. Their huntings were rather like ships at sea, without any
track or path. So that all the country, further than about two miles distant from
the river (excepting the Indians' movable settlements), was an entire wilderness,
producing nothing for the support of human life but the wild fruits and animals
of the woods.
The lodgings of some of these settlers were, at first, in the woods. A chosen
tree was frequently all the shelter they had against the inclemency of the weather.
This sometimes happened late in the fall, and even in the winter season. The
next coverings of many of them were either caves in the earth, or such huts
510 PENNSYLVANIA.
erected upon it as could be most expeditiously procured, until better houses
were built, for which they had no want of timber.
The world wide celebrated treaty of William Penn with the Indians, was
made in 1682, at Shackamaxon, now that part of Philadelphia called Ken
sington. The elm tree on the bank
of the Delaware, under which the
treaty was made, was 24 feet in girth.
In its form it was remarkably wide
spread, but not lofty. The "Treaty
Tree " was long preserved in the af
fections of the Indians and colonists.
During the time the British occu
pied Philadelphia, and were scour
ing the country for fire wood, Gren.
Simcoe, who commanded in this dis-
trict, placed a sentinel under the tree
PENN'S TREATY TREE. to protect it. The Methodists and
The engraving represents the elm tree formerly Baptists often held their Summer
standing at Kensington, under which Penn made * . , . -, , \\T-I
his memorable treaty with the Indians, copied from meetings under its Shade. W nen it
a sketch of the tree before it was blown down in 1810. wag blown down in 1810, it Was aS-
certained, by its circles of annual growth, to be 283 years old. Many pieces
of it were wrought into various articles to be preserved as relics. The Penn
Society have erected a monument on the spot where the tree stood, on which
are the following inscriptions:
Treaty ground of William Penn and the Indian Nations, 1682. Unbroken faith— Wil
liam Penn born 1644, died 1718. Placed by the Penn Society, A. D. 1827, to mark the site of
the great elm tree. Pennsylvania, founded 1681, by deeds of peace.
Although no original written record exists of this celebrated event, yet
the evidence of its occurrence is satisfactory. The treaty and its stipula
tions are referred to repeatedly in the early minutes of the council, speeches,
etc. Grov. Gordon, in a council with many chiefs of the Couestogoes, Dela-
wares, Shawanees, and Granawese, held at Philadelphia in 1728, thus ad
dresses them :
" My Brethren : You have been faithfull to your Leagues with us, your Hearts have
been clean, & you have preserved, the Chain from Spotts or Rust, or if there were any, you
have been carefull to wipe them away ; your Leagues with your Father William Penn, &
with his Governours, are in Writing on Record, that our Children & our Children's Chil
dren, may have them in everlasting Remembrance. And we Know that you preserve the
memory of those things amongst you, by telling them to your Children, & they again to
the next Generation, so that they remain stamp'd on your Minds, never to be forgott.
The Chief Heads or Strongest Links of this Chain, I find are these Nine, vizt :
1st. That all William Penn's People, or Christians, and all the Indians should be breth
ren, as the Children of one Father, joyned together as with one Heart, one Head, & one
Body.
2d. That all Paths should be open and free to both Christians and Indians.
3d. That the Doors of the Christians' Houses should be open to the Indians, & the
Houses of the Indians open to the Christians, & that they should make each other welcome
as their Friends.
4th. That the Christians should not believe any false Rumours, or Reports of the In
dians, nor the Indians believe any such Rumours or Reports of the Christians, but should
iirst come as Brethren to inquire of each other ; And that both Christians and Indians,
when they hear any such false Reports of their Brethren, they should bury them as in a
bottomless Pitt.
5th. That if the Christians heard any ill news that may be to the Hurt of the Indians, or
the Indians hear any such ill news that may be to the Injury of the Christians, they should
acquaint each other with it speedily as true Friends & Brethren.
6th. That the Indians should do no manner of Harm to the Christians nor their Crea
PENNSYLVANIA. 5H
tures, nor the Christians do any Hurt to any Indians5 but each treat the other as their
Brethren.
7th. But as there are wicked People in all Nations, if either Indians or Christians should
do any harm to each other, Complaint should be made of it by the Persons Suffering, that
Right may be done ; and when Satisfaction is made, the Injury or Wrong should be for-
gott, &, be buried as in a bottomless Pitt.
8th. That the Indians should, in all things, assist the Christians, & the Christians assist
the Indians against all wicked People that would disturb them.
9th. And lastly, that both Christians & Indians should acquaint their Children with this
League & firm Chain of Friendship made between them, & that it should always be made
stronger & stronger, & be kept bright and clean, without Rust or Spott between our Child
ren and Children's Children, while the Creeks and Rivers run, and while the Sun, Moon &
Stars endure."
The winter of 1777-8, immediately following the battle of Brandywine,
was memorable for the occupation of Philadelphia by the British army, un
der Gen. Sir William Howe, accompanied by Lord Howe, his brother, who
had command of the British fleet in the Delaware. The following extracts
are from Watson's Annals of Philadelphia:
" We knew the enemy had landed at the head of Elk ; but of their procedure and move
ments we had but vague information — for none were left in the city in public employ, to
whom expresses would be addressed. The day of the battle of Brandywine was one of deep
anxiety. We heard the firing, and knew of an engagement between the armies, without
expecting immediate information of the result, when, toward night, a horseman rode at
full speed down Chestnut street, and turned round Fourth to the Indian Queen public
house. Many ran to hear what he had to tell ; and, as I remember, his account was pretty
near the truth. He told of LaFayette being wounded.
The army marched in and took possession of the town in the morning. We were up
stairs, and saw them pass to the state house. They looked well, clean, and well clad ; and
the contrast between them and our own poor barefooted and ragged troops, was very great,
and caused- a feeling of despair. It was a solemn and impressive day ; but I saw no exulta
tion in the enemy, nor, indeed, in those who were reckoned favorable to their success.
Early in the afternoon Lord Cornwallis' suite arrived, and took possession of my mother's
house. But my mother was appalled by the numerous train, and shrank from such in
mates ; for a guard was mounted at the door, and the yard filled with soldiers and baggage
of every description ; and I well remember what we thought of the haughty looks of Lord
Rawdon (afterward the Marquis of Hastings), and the other aid-de-camp, as they traversed
the apartments. My mother desired to speak with Lord Cornwallis, and he attended her
in the front parlor. She told him of her situation, and how impossible it would be for her
to stay in her own house with such a numerous train as composed his lordship's establish
ment. He behaved with great politeness to her — said he should be sorry to give trouble,
and would have other quarters looked out for him. They withdrew that very afternoon,
and he was accommodated at Peter Reeve's, in Second, near to Spruce street ; and we felt
very glad at the exemption. But it did not last long ; for, directly, the quarter- masters
were employed in billeting the troops, and we had to find room for two officers of artillery,
and afterward, in addition, for two gentlemen, secretaries of Lord Howe.
The officers, very generally I believe, behaved with politeness to the inhabitants ; and
many of them, upon going away, expressed their satisfaction that no injury to the city was
contemplated by their commander. They said that living among the inhabitants, and
speaking the same language, made them uneasy at the thought of acting as enemies.
At first, provisions were scarce and dear, and we had to live with much less abundance
than we had been accustomed to. Hard money was, indeed, as difficult to come at as if it
had never been taken from the mines, except with those who had things to sell for the use
of the army.
The day of the battle of Germantown, we heard the firing all day, but knew not the re
sult. Toward evening they brought in the wounded. The prisoners were carried to the
state house lobbies ; and the street was presently filled with women, taking lint and band
ages, and every refreshment which they thought their suffering countrymen might want.
Gen. Howe, during the time he staid in Philadelphia, seized, and kept for his own use.
Mary Pemberton's coach and horses — in which he used to ride about the town. The old
officers appeared to be uneasy at his conduct, and some of them freely expressed their opin
ions. They said, that before his promotion to the chief command he sought for the coun
sels and company of officers of experience and merit ; but now, his companions were
usually a set of boys — the most dissipated fellows in the army.
512 PENNSYLVANIA.
Lord Howe was much more sedate and dignified than his brother — really dignified — for
he did not seem to affect any pomp or parade.
They were exceedingly chagrined and surprised at the capture of Burgoyne, and at first
would not suffer it to be mentioned. We had received undoubted intelligence of the fact,
in a letter from Charles Thompson ; and upon communicating this circumstance to Henry
Gurney, his interrogatories forced an acknowledgement from some of the superior officers
that it was as he said, ' alas ! too true ! '
While the British remained, they held frequent plays at the Old Theater — the perfor
mances by their officers. The scenes were painted by Maj. Andre and Capt. Delancy.
They had also stated balls. — Letter from a Lady in Watson's Annals.
During the occupation of Philadelphia by the British, the American army
was saved from a surprise by the noble conduct of a Quaker lady. The
story, which has often been told, is as follows :
Gen. Howe's head-quarters were then in Second street, the fourth door below
Spruce, in a house before occupied by Gen. Cadwallader. Directly opposite, re
sided William and Lydia Darrah, members of the Society of Friends. A superior
officer of the British army, believed to be the adjutant-general, fixed upon one of
their chambers, a back room, for private conference; and two of them frequently
met there, with fire and candles, in close consultation. About the 2d of Decem
ber, the adjutant-general told Lydia that he would be in the room at seven o'clock,
and remain late ; and they wished the family to retire early to bed ; adding, that
when they were going away they would call her to let them out and extinguish
their fire and candles. She accordingly sent all the family to bed ; but, as the
officer had been so particular, her curiosity was excited. 'She took off her shoes
and put her ear to the key-hole of the conclave, and overheard an order read for
all the British troops to march out late in the evening of the fourth, and attack
Gen. Washington's army, then encamped at White Marsh. On hearing this, she
returned to her chamber, and lay down. Soon after, the officer knocked at the
door, but she arose only at the third summons, having feigned herself asleep. Her
mind was so much agitated, that, from this moment, she could neither eat nor
sleep, supposing it to be in her power to save the lives of thousands of her coun
trymen, but not knowing how she was to convey the information to Gen. Wash
ington, not daring to confide in her husband. She quickly determined to make
her way as soon as possible to the American outposts. She informed her family,
that, as she was in want of flour, she would go to Frankford for some; her hus
band insisted that she should take the servant maid with her, but, to his surprise,
she positively refused. She got across to Gen. Howe, and solicited, what he
readily granted, to pass through the British troops on the lines. Leaving her bag
at the mill, she hastened toward the American lines, and encountered, on her way,
an American lieutenant-colonel (Craig) of the light horse, who, with some of his
men, was on the look-out for information. He knew her, and inquired where she
was going. She answered, in quest of her son, an officer in the American army,
praying the colonel to alight and walk with her. He did so, ordering his troops
to keep in sight. To him she disclosed her secret, after having obtained from him
a solemn promise never to betray her individually, as her life might be at stake
with the British.
He conducted her to a house near at hand, directed something for her to eat,
and hastened to head-quarters, when he made Gen. Washington acquainted with
what he had heard. Washington made, of course, all preparation for baffling the
meditated surprise. Lydia returned home with her flour; sat up alone to watch
the movements of the British troops; heard their footsteps; but when they re
turned, in a few days after, did not dare to ask a question, though solicitous to
learn the event. The next evening, the adjutant-general came in, and requested
her to walk up to his room, as he wished to put some questions. She followed
him in terror ; and when he locked the door and begged her, with an air of mys
tery, to be seated, she was sure that she was either suspected or had been be
trayed. He inquired earnestly whether any of her family were up the last night
he and the other officer met. She told him that they all retired at eight o'clock.
He observed, "I know you icere asleep, for I knocked at your chamber door three
PENNSYLVANIA. 513
times before you heard me. I am at a los§,to imagine who gave Gen. Washington
information of our intended attack, unless the walls of the house could speak.
When we arrived near White Marsh, we found all their cannon mounted, and the
troops prepared to receive us, and we have marched back like a parcel of fools"
The yclloio fever which has been the scourge of most of our cities, particu
larly at the south, raged with great virulence in Philadelphia, in 1793. The
following is from Dr. Rush's account of the fever. This distinguished phy
sician continued in the city during the whole of this calamitious period, and
rendered himself conspicuous by his humanity, skill, and courage. It com
menced early in August, and continued until the 9th of November, during
which time 4,000 persons died, out of a population of 60,000. Its greatest
hight was about the middle of October, when 119 persons died in one day.
The disease appeared in many parts of the town, remote from the spot where it
originated; although in every instance it was easily traced to it. This set the city
in motion. The streets and roads leading from the city were crowded with fami
lies flying in every direction for safety, to the country. Business began to languish.
Water street, between Market and Race streets, became a desert. The poor were
the first victims of the fever. From the sudden interruption of business, they suf
fered for a while from poverty as well as disease. A large and airy house at Bush
Hill, about a mile from the city, was opened for their reception. This house, af
ter it became the charge of a committee appointed by the citizens on the 14th of
September, was regulated and governed with the order and cleanliness of an old
and established hospital. An American and French physician had the exclusive
medical care of it after the 22d of September.
The contagion, after the second week in September, spared no rank of citizens.
Whole families were confined by it. There was a deficiency of nurses for the
sick, and many of those who were employed were unqualified for their business.
There was likewise a great deficiency of physicians, from the desertion of some,
and the sickness and death of others. At one time there were only three physi
cians able to do business out of their houses, and at this time there were probably
not less than 6,000 persons ill with the fever.
During the first three or four weeks of the prevalence of the disorder, I seldom
went into a house the first time, without meeting the parents or children of the
sick in tears. Many wept aloud in my entry or ^parlor, who came to ask advice
for their relations. Grief, after a while, descended below weeping, and I was
much struck in observing that many persons submitted to the loss of relations
and friends, without shedding a tear, or manifesting any other of the common
signs of grief.
A cheerful countenance was scarcely to be seen in the city for six weeks. I
recollect once, in entering the house of a poor man, to have met a child of two
years old that smiled in my face. I was strangely affected with this sight (so dis
cordant to my feelings and the state of the city), before I recollected the age and
ignorance of the child. I was confined the next day by an attack of the fever, and
was sorry to hear, upon my recovery, that the father and mother of this little crea
ture died a few days after my last visit to them.
The streets everywhere discovered marks of the distress that pervaded the city.
More than one half the houses were shut up, although not more than one third of
the inhabitants had fled into the country. In walking, for many hundred yards,
few persons were met, except such as were in quest of a physician, a nurse, a
bleeder, or the men who buried the dead. The hearse alone kept up the remem
brance of the noise of carriages or carts in the streets. Funeral processions were
laid aside. A black man, leading or driving a horse, with a corpse on a pair of
chair wheels, with now and then half a dozen relations or friends following at a
distance from it, met the eye in most of the streets of the city, at every hour of the
day ; while the noise of the same wheels passing slowly over the pavements, kept
alive anguish and fear in the sick and well, every hour of the night.
514 PENNSYLVANIA.
BENJAMIN FRANKLIN, the printej;, statesman, and philosopher, was for a
long period one of the prominent citizens of Philadelphia ; his unostenta
tious grave is in the N. W. corner of the cemetery of Christ's Church, at the
corner of Fifth and Arch streets. It is constructed in accordance with his
will, which directs as follows: "I wish to be buried by the side of my wife,
if it may be, and that a marble stone be made by Chambers, 6 feet long, 4
wide, plain, with only a small molding round the upper edge, and this in
scription :
BENJAMIN") PRANKMW
AND i±KA£7K8LIN'
DEBOBA J
Be placed over us both." The actual date on the stone is 1790. A similar
stone by the side of it, is that of his daughter Sarah, and her husband
Richard Bache. The following is his own account of his first arrival in
Philadelphia. It is well known that he had been an apprentice in his
brother's printing-office in Boston, and having disagreed with him, he had
left home, without the knowledge of his parents, in a sloop for New York ;
thence he had come on foot across New Jersey to Burlington, 20 miles above
Philadelphia, where he embarked in one of the passage boats that plied be
tween there and the city. The doctor says :
"We arrived on Sunday about eight or nine o'clock in the morning, and landed
on Market-street wharf. I have entered into the particulars of my voyage, and
shall, in like manner, describe my first entrance into this city, that you may com
pare beginnings so little auspicious, with the figure 1 have since made.
On my arrival in Philadelphia I was in my working dress, my best clothes being
to come by sea. I was covered with dirt : my pockets were filled with shirts and
stockings; I was unacquainted with a single soul in the place, and knew not where
to look for a lodging. Fatigued with walking, rowing, and having passed the
night without sleep, I was extremely hungry, and all my money consisted of a
Dutch dollar, and about a shilling's worth of coppers, which I gave to the boatmen
for my passage. As I had assisted them in rowing, they refused it at first ; but I
insisted on their taking it. A man is sometimes more generous when he has
little, than when he has much money ; probably because, in the first case, he is
desirous of concealing his poverty.
I walked toward the top of the street, looking eagerly on both sides, till I came
to Market-street, where I met with a child with a loaf of bread. Often had I made
my dinner on dry bread. I inquired where he had bought it, and went straight
to the baker's shop which he pointed out to me. I asked for some biscuits, ex
pecting to find such as we had at Boston ; but they made, it seems, none of that
sort at Philadelphia. I then asked for a three-penny loaf. They made no loaves
of that price. Finding myself ignorant of the prices, as well as of the different
kinds of bread, I desired him to let me have three-pennyworth of bread of some
kind or other. He gave me three large rolls. I was surprised at receiving so
much. I took them, however, and having no room in my pockets, I walked on
with a roll under each arm, eating the third. In this manner I went through
Market-street to Fourth-street, and passed the house of Mr. Heed, the father "of my
future wife. She was standing at the door, observed me, and thought, with reason,
that I made a very singular and grotesque appearance.
I then turned the corner, and went through Chesnut-street, eating my roll all
the way; and having made this round, I found myself again on Market-street
wharf, near the boat in which I arrived. I stepped into it to take a draught of the
river water ; and, finding myself satisfied with the first roll, I gave the other two
to a woman and her child, who had come down the. river with us in the boat, and
was waiting to continue her journey. Thus refreshed, I regained the street, which
was now full of well dressed people, all going the same way. I joined them, and
was thus led to a large Quaker meeting-house near the market-place. I sat down
with the rest, and, after looking around me for some time, hearing nothing said,
PENNSYLVANIA.
515
and being drowsy from ray last night's labor and want of rest, I fell into a sound
sleep. In this state I continued till the assembly dispersed, when one of the con
gregation had the goodness to wake me. This was consequently the first house I
entered, or in which I slept in Philadelphia.
1 beiian again to walk along the street by the river side ; and, looking atten
tively in the face of every one I met with, I at length perceived a young Quaker
whose countenance pleased me. 1 accosted him, and begged him to inform me
where a stranger might find a lodging. We were then near the sign of the Three
Mariners. ' I1hey receive travelers here,' said he, ' but it is not a house that bears
a good character ; if you will go with me, I will show you a better one.' He con
ducted me to the Crooked Billet, in Water-street. There 1 ordered something for
dinner, and, during my meal, a number of curious questions were put to me; my
youth and appearance exciting the suspicion of my being a runaway. After din
ner my drowsiness returned, and I threw myself upon a bed without taking off my
clothes, and slept till six o'clock in the evening, when I was called to supper. I
afterward went to bed at a very early hour, and did not awake till the next morning.
Outline view of Girard College.
The following account of STEPHEN GIRARD, the great millionare of Phila
delphia, so celebrated for his wealth, is from " Day's Historical Collections
of Pennsylvania : "
"Stephen Girard was born of very humble parents, near Bordeaux, in France,
on the 24th of May, 1750. Such education as he ever had, he must have picked
up in the world at large. He commenced his career at the age of ten or twelve —
leaving France for the first and last time, as a cabin boy, bound to the West In
dies. Thence he went to New York, and sailed for some years between there and
the West Indies and New Orleans, as cabin boy, sailor, mate, and eventually
master and owner. Having made some money, he started a small shop in Water-
street, Philadelphia, in 1769, and in 1770 married a pretty girl, the daughter of a
caulker. He lived with her some twenty years : but not very happily, on account of
his own asperity of temper. She became insane in 1790, and died in the Philadelphia
Hospital in 1815. An only child died in infancy. After his marriage he con
tinued business in Water-street, occasionally going as master of his own vessels —
in one of which he was captured on a voyage to St. Domingo. He came home
poor, and started a little cider and wine bottling shop in Water-street, aided by
his wife, the year before the revolutionary war. He was a friend to the revolu
tion, and removed to Mount Holly while the British occupied Philadelphia.
About the year 1782, he took on lease a number of stores on Water-street, which
proved a profitable operation — and afterward went into business with his brother.
Capt. John Girard, who came out from France. They drove a profitable trade
with St. Domingo; and at their dissolution (for they could not agree) John was
worth $60,000, and Stephen $30,000. After this he went largely into the St. Do
mingo trade ; and, while a brig and schooner of his were lying at Cape Francoise.
the great revolt of the negroes occurred. Many planters, in" the panic, removed
their valuables on board his vessels, and again returning to the shore, were cut off
\>y the negroes. Whole families thus perished together ; and Mr. Girard, by the
33
516 PENNSYLVANIA.
most extensive advertising, could never ascertain the heirs of the wealth (said to be
about $50,000) that thus fell into his hands. His next commercial enterprises
were in the East India trade, in which he had several ships, and acquired a large
fortune. At the expiration of the charter of the old United States Bank in
1810-11, he purchased, through the Barings, in London, about $500,000 of that
stock; and not long afterward — purchasing the banking house of the institution in
Third-street, and making an arrangement with the former cashier, Mr. George
Simpson — he started his own private bank in May, 1812, with a capital of $1,200,-
000. This was a bold step at the opening of the war with Great Britain — yet the
specie was never refused for a banknote of Stephen Girard's. When the new
United States Bank was started, in 1816, he waited till the last moment before the
subscription books closed, and then, inquiring if all that wished had subscribed,
he coolly took the balance of the stock, amounting to $3,100,000; some of which
he afterward parted with. By the subsequent rise of this stock his fortune was
immensely augmented. His own bank was continued till his death, when it had
accumulated a capital of $4,000,000. The bank was afterward chartered by the
legislature as the Girard Bank, with individual stockholders ; and has since failed.
Mr. Girard died of influenza, on the 26th of December, 1831, at his residence in
Water, above Market-street.
Stephen Girard was exceedingly plain in his dress and personal appearance.
He was always blind of one eye ; and in middle life might be mistaken for a stout
sailor, and maturer years for a plain old farmer. His dwelling house was under
the same roof with his counting house, in Water-street — a neighborhood occupied
entirely by stores; and his furniture was of the plainest kind. His equipage was
an old chaise and a plain farm horse. He indulged in no pleasures, or scenes of
social life; had no one with who he sympathized as a friend; and when his sym
pathies were exercised at all, they seemed to be for masses of men, and not for
individuals — for future generations, and not for the present. He had a sort of in
stinctive fondness for giving medical advice ; and when the yellow fever desolated
the city, in 1793, regardless of danger, he spent his whole time in personal attend
ance upon the sick, in all parts of the city. His temper was irritable, and when
excited he would break out upon his dependents, in his broken English, with great
volubility."
Germantown, formerly a borough of Philadelphia county, but now inclu
ded within the limits of the city of Philadelphia, is situated on the German-
town Branch Railroad, 6 miles N. "W. of the state house. It consists of one
broad street, extending 4 miles in "a northerly direction, and several others
recently built, crossing it at right angles. Many of the houses are of stone,
and have a substantial though somewhat ancient appearance. Many mer
chants of Philadelphia have their country seats here, some of which are most
elegant structures, adorned with spacious grounds, statuary, etc. It contains
14 places of worship, and about 10,000 inhabitants.
Chew's house, in this place, about a mile from the railroad depot, is an in
teresting relic of the revolutionary period. At the time of the battle of Ger-
mantown, it was the mansion house of Chief Justice Chew; it is a spacious
structure of stone, and bears many evidences of the refined taste of its dis
tinguished owner. It stands back several rods from the road, and the yard
in front is thickly studded with trees. Several pieces of marble statuary are
placed in front of the house, one of which is a headless statue of Venus — the
head having been struck off by a cannon-shot during the action. Upward
of twenty Americans, it is stated, were killed on or near the steps of the
dwelling. The following account of the battle of Germantown, October 4,
1777, is from Botta's American War :
After the battle of Brandy wine, which took place on the llth of September,
1777, Gen. Howe, stationed a detachment of his troops on the Jersey side, below
Philadelphia, to protect the movements of the British fleet; a part were quartered
PENNSYLVANIA.
517
in the city, and the larger part were at Germantown. The American army was
then, about the end of September, encamped at Skippach creek, and Washington
determined to avail himself of the divided state of the British army, to fall upon
their encampment at Germantown. He took this resolution with the more confi
dence, as he was now reinforced by the junction of the troops from Peekskill and
the Maryland militia.
The British line of encampment crossed Germantown at right angles about the
center, the left wing extending on the west from the town to the Schuylkill. That
wing was covered in front by the mounted and dismounted German chasseurs, who
were stationed a little above, toward the American camp; a battalion of light in
fantry and the Queen's American rangers were in the front of the right. The
View of tlie Chew House, Germantown^ Phila.
center, being posted within the town, was guarded by the 4()th regiment, and an
other battalion of light infantry, stationed about three quarters of a mile above the
head of the village. Washington resolved to attack the British by surprise, not
doubting that if he succeeded in breaking them, as they were not only distant, but
totally separated from the fleet, his victory must be decisive.
He so disposed his troops that the divisions of Sullivan and Wayne, flanked by
Conway's brigade, were to march dow,n the main road, and entering the town by
the way of Chesnut Hill, to attack the English center and the right flank of their
left wing; the divisions of Greene and Stephens, flanked by Macdougal's brigade,
were to take a circuit toward the east, by the Limekiln road, and entering the town
at the market house, to attack the left flank of the right wing. The intention of
the American general in seizing the village of Germantown by a double attack,
was effectually to separate the right and left wings of the royal army, which must
have given him a certain victory. In order that the left flank of the left wing might
not contract itself, and support the right flank of the same wing, Gen. Armstrong,
with the Pennsylvania militia, was ordered to march down the bridge-road upon
the banks of the Schuylkill, and endeavor to turn the English, if they should retire
from that river. In like manner, to prevent the right flank of the right wing from
going to the succor of the left flank, which rested upon Germantown, the militia
of Maryland and Jersey, under Gens. Smallwood and Forman, were to march
down the Old York road, and to fall upon the English on that extremity of their
518 PENNSYLVANIA.
wing. The division of Lord Sterling, and the brigades of Gens. Nash and Max
well, formed the reserve. These dispositions being made, Washington quitted hig
camp at Skippach creek, and moved toward the enemy on the 3d of October, about
seven in the evening. Parties of cavalry silently scoured all the roads, to seize
any individual who might have given notice to the British general of the danger
that threatened him. Washington in person accompanied the column of Sullivan
and Wayne. The march was rapid and silent.
At three o'clock in the morning, the British patrols discovered the approach of
the Americans ; the troops were soon called to arms ; each took his post with the
precipitation of surprise. About sunrise the Americans came up. Gen. Conway,
having driven in the pickets, fell upon the 40th regiment and the battalion of light
infantry. These corps, after a short resistance, being overpowered by numbers,
were pressed and pursued into the" village. Fortune appeared already to have de
clared herself in favor of the Americans ; and certainly if they had gained com
plete possession of Germantown, nothing could have frustrated them of the most
signal victory. But in this conjuncture, Lieut. Col. Musgrave threw himself, with
six companies of the 40th regiment, into a large and strong stone house, situated
near the head of the village, from which he poured upon the assailants so terrible
a fire of musketry that they could advance no further. The Americans attempted
to storm this unexpected covert of the enemy, but those within continued to defend
themselves with resolution. They finally brought cannon up to the assault, but
such was the intrepidity of the English, and the violence of their fire, that it was
found impossible to dislodge them. During this time, Gen. Greene had approached
the right wing, and routed, after a slight engagement, the light infantry and Queen's
rangers. Afterward, turning a little to his right, and toward Germantown, he fell
upon the left flank of the enemy's right wing, and endeavored to enter the village.
Meanwhile, he expected that the Pennsylvania militia, under Armstrong, upon the
right, and the militia of Maryland and Jersey, commanded by Smallwood and For-
man on the left, would have executed the orders of the commander-in-chief, by at
tacking and turning, the first the left, and the second the right, flank of the British
army. But, either because the obstacles they encountered had retarded them, or
that they wanted ardor, the former arrived in sight of the German chasseurs, and
did not attack them ; the latter appeared too late upon the field of battle.
The consequence was, that Gen. Grey, finding his left flank secure, marched,
with nearly the whole of the left wing, to the assistance of the center, which, not
withstanding the unexpected resistance of Col. Musgrave, was excessively hard
pressed in Germantown, where the Americans gained ground incessantly. The
battle was now very warm at that village — the attack and the defense being equally
vigorous. The issue appeared for some time dubious. Gen. Agnew was mortally
wounded, while charging with great bravery at the head of the 4th brigade. The
American Col. Matthews, of the column of Greene, assailed the English with such
fury that he drove them before him into the town. He had taken a large number
of prisoners, and was about entering the village, when he perceived that a thick
fog and the unevenness of the ground had caused him to lose sight of the rest of his
division. Being soon enveloped by the extremity of the right wing, which fell
back upon him when it had discovered that nothing was to be apprehended from
the tardy approach of the militia of Maryland and Jersey, he was compelled to
surrender with all his party : the English had already rescued their prisoners. This
check was the cause that two regiments of the English right wing were enabled
to throw themselves into Germantown, and to attack the Americans who had en
tered it in flank. Unable to sustain the shock, they retired precipitately, leaving a
great number of killed and wounded. Lieut. Col. Musgrave, to whom belongs the
principal honor of this affair, was then relieved from all peril. Gen. Grey, being
absolute master of Germantown, flew to the succor of the right wing, which was
engaged with the left of the column of Greene. The Americans then took to flight,
abandoning to the English, throughout the line, a victory of which, in the com
mencement of the action, they had felt assured.
The principal causes of the failure of this well-concerted enterprise, were the
extreme haziness of the weather — which was so thick that the Americans could
neither discover the situation nor movements of the British army, nor yet those
PENNSYLVANIA. 519
of their own ; the inequality of the ground, which incessantly broke the ranks of
their battalions — an inconvenience more serious and difficult to be repaired for
new and inexperienced troops, as were most of the Americans, than for the Eng
lish veterans; and, finally, the unexpected resistance of Musgrave, who found
means, in a critical moment, to transform a mere house into an impregnable
fortress.
Thus fortune, who at first had appeared disposed to favor one party, suddenly
declared herself on the side of their adversaries. Lord Cornwallis, being at Phil
adelphia, upon intelligence of the attack upon the camp, flew to its succor with a
corps of cavalry and the grenadiers ; but when he reached the field of battle, the
Americans had already left it. They had two hundred men killed in this action;
the number of wounded amounted to six hundred, and about four hundred were
made prisoners. One of their most lamented losses was that of Gen. Nash, of
North Carolina. The loss of the British was little over five hundred in killed and
wounded ; among the former were Brig. Gen. Agnew, an officer of rare merit, and
Col. Bird. The American army saved all its artillery, and retreated the same day
about twenty miles, to Perkyomy creek.
The congress expressed in decided terms their approbation, both of the plan of
this enterprise and the courage with which it was executed; for which their thanks
were given to the general and the army. Gen. Stephens, however, was cashiered
for misconduct on the retreat. A few days after the battle, the royal army re
moved from Germantown to Philadelphia.
About twenty-five miles south west of Philadelphia, near the line of the
state of Delaware, and but a few miles west of the Delaware River, the bat
tle of Brandy wine was fought, on the llth of September, 1777. The an
nexed account of this action is also from Botta :
"Washington retired with his troops behind the Brandywine, and encamped on the rising
grounds which extend from Chadsford, in the direction of north-west to south-east. The
riflemen of Maxwell secured the right bank of the Brandywine, in order to harass and re
tard the enemy. The militia, under the command of Gen. Armstrong, guarded a passage
below the principal encampment of Washington, and the right wing lined the banks of the
river higher up, where the passages were most difficult. The passage of Chadsford, as the
most practicable of all, was defended by the chief force of the army. The troops being
thus disposed, the American general waited the approach of the English. Although the
Brandywine, being fordable almost everywhere, could not serve as a sufficient defense
against the impetuosity of the enemy, yet Washington had taken post upon its banks, from
a conviction that a battle was now inevitable, and that Philadelphia could only be saved by
a victory. *Gen. Howe displayed the front of his army, but not, however, without great cir
cumspection. Being arrived at Kennet Square, a short distance from the river, he detached
his lighthorse to the right upon Wilmington, to the left upon the Lancaster road, and in
front toward Chadsford. The two armies found themselves within seven miles of each
other, the Brandywine flowing between them.
Early in the morning of the llth of September, the British army marched to the enemy.
Howe had formed his army in two columns ; the right commanded by Gen. Knyphausen,
the left by Lord Cornwallis. His plan was, that while the first should make repeated feints
to attempt the passage of Chadsford, in order to occupy the attention of the republicans,
the second should take a long circuit to the upper part of the river, and cross at a place
where it is divided into two shallow streams. The English marksmen fell in with those
of Maxwell, and a smart skirmish was immediately engaged. The latter were at first re
pulsed ; but being reinforced from the camp, they compelled the English to retire in their
turn. But at length, they also were reinforced, and Maxwell was constrained to withdraw
his detachment behind the river. Meanwhile, Knyphausen advanced with his column, and
commenced a furious cannonade upon the passage of Chadsford, making all his dispositions
as if he intended to force it. The Americans defended themselves with gallantry, and even
passed several detachments of light troops to the other side, in order to harass the enemy's
flanks. But after a course of skirmishes, sometimes advancing, and at others obliged to
retire, they were finally, with an eager pursuit, driven over the river. Knyphausen then
appeared more than ever determined to pass the ford ; he stormed, and kept up an incred
ible noise. In this manner the attention of the Americans was fully occupied in the neigh-
oorhood of Chadsford. Meanwhile, Lord Cornwallis, at the head of the second column,
took a circuitous march to the left, and gained, unperceived, the forks of the Brandywine.
520
PENNSYLVANIA.
By this rapid movement, he passed both branches of the river, at Trimble's and at Jeffery's
fords, without opposition, about two o'clock in the afternoon, and then turning short down
the river, took the road to Dilworth, in order to fall upon the right flank of the American
army. The republican general, however, received intelligence of this movement about noon,
and, as it usually happens in similar cases, the reports exaggerated its importance exceed
ingly — it being represented that Gen. Howe commanded this division in person. Washing
ton, therefore, decided immediately for the most judicious, though boldest measure: this
was to pass the river with the center and left wing of his army, and overwhelm Knyphausen
by the most furious attack. He justly reflected that the advantage he should obtain upon
the enemy's right, would amply compensate the loss that his own might sustain at the same
time. Accordingly, he ordered Gen. Sullivan to pass the Brandy wine with his division at
an upper ford, and .attack the left of Knyphausen, while he, in person, should cross lower
down, and fall upon the right of that general.
They were both already in motion in order to execute this design, when a second report
arrived, which represented what had really taken place as false, or in other words, that the
enemy had not crossed the two branches of the river, and that, he had not made his appear
ance upon the right flank of the American troops. Deceived by this false intelligence,
Battle Field of Brandywine.
Washington desisted ; and Greene, who had already passed with the vanguard, was ordered
back. In the midst of these uncertainties, the commander-in-chief at length received the
positiAre assurance, not only that the English had appeared upon the left bank, but also that
they were about to fall in great force upon the right wing. It was composed of the brig
ades of Gens. Stephens, Sterling and Sullivan. The first was the most advanced, and con
sequently the nearest to the English ; the two others were posted in the order of their rank,
that of Sullivan being next to the center. This general was immediately detached from
the main body, to support the two former brigades, and, being the senior officer, took the
command of the whole wing. Washington himself, followed by Gen. Greene, approached
with two strong divisions toward this wing, and posted himself between it and the corps he
had left at Chadsford, under Gen. Wayne, to oppose the passage of Knyphausen. These
two divisions, under the immediate orders of the commander-in-chief, served as a corps of
reserve, ready to march, according to circumstances, to the succor of Sullivan or of Wayne.
But the column of Cornwallis was already in sight of the Americans. Sullivan drew up
his troops on the commanding ground above Birmingham meeting house, with his left ex
tending toward the Brandywine, and both his flanks covered with very thick woods. His
artillery was advantageously planted upon the neighboring hills ; but it appears that Sulli
van's own brigade, having taken a long circuit, arrived too late upon the field of battle,
and had not yet occupied the position assigned it, when the action commenced. The Eng
lish, having reconnoitered the dispositions of the Americans, immediately formed, and fell
upon them with the utmost impetuosity. The engagement became equally fierce on both
sides, about four o'clock in the afternoon. For some length of time the Americans de
fended themselves with great valor, and the carnage was terrible. But such was the emu
lation which invigorated the efforts of the English and Hessians, that neither the advan
tages of situation, nor a heavy and well-supported fire of small arms and artillery, nor the
PENNSYLVANIA. 521
unshaken courage of the Americans, were able to resist their impetuosity. The light in
fantry, chasseurs, grenadiers and guards, threw themselves with such fury into the midst
of the republican battalions, that they were forced to give way. Their left flank was first
thrown into confusion, but the rout soon became general. The vanquished fled into the
woods in their rear ; the victors pursued, and advanced by the great road toward Dilworth.
On the first fire of the artillery, Washington, having no doubt of what was passing, had
pushed forward the reserve to the succor of Sullivan. But this corps, on approaching the
field of battle, fell in with the flying soldiers of Sullivan, and perceived that no hope re
mained of retrieving the fortune of the day. Gen. Greene, by a judicious maneuver, opened
his ranks to receive the fugitives, and after their passage, having closed them anew, he re
tired in good order — checking the pursuit of the enemy by a continual fire of the artillery
which covered his rear. Having come to a defile, covered on both sides with woods, he
drew up his men there, and again faced the enemy. His corps was composed of Virginians
and Pennsylvanians ; they defended themselves with gallantry — the former, especially,
commanded by Col. Stephens, made an heroic stand.
Knyphausen, finding the Americans to be fully engaged on their right, and observing that
the corps opposed to him at Chadsford was enfeebled by the troops which had been detached
to the succor of Sullivan, began to make dispositions for crossing the river in reality. The
passage of Chadsford was defended by an intrenchment and battery. The republicans
stood firm at first ; but upon intelligence of the defeat of their right, and seeing some of
the British troops who had penetrated through the woods, come out upon their flank, they
retired in disorder, abandoning their artillery and munitions to the German general. In
their retreat, or rather flight, they passed behind the position of Gen. Greene, who still de
fended himself, and was the last to quit the field of battle. Finally, it being already dark,
after a long and obstinate conflict, he also retired. The whole army retreated that night to
Chester, and the day following to Philadelphia.
There the fugitives arrived incessantly, having effected their escape through by-ways and
circuitous routes. The victors passed the night on the field of battle. If darkness had not
arrived seasonably, it is very probable that the whole American army would have been de
stroyed. The loss of the i^epublicans was computed at about three hundred killed, six hun
dred wounded, and near four hundred taken prisoners. They also lost ten field-pieces and a
howitzer. The loss in the royal army was not in proportion, being something under five
hundred, of which the slain did not amount to one fifth.
The French officers were of great utility to the Americans, as well in forming the troops
as in rallying them when thrown into confusion. One of them, the Baron St. Ovary, was
made a prisoner, to the great regret of congress, who bore him a particular esteem. Capt.
De Fleury had a horse killed under him in the hottest of the action. The congress gave
him another a few days after. The Marquis de LaFayette, while he was endeavoring, bv
his words and example, to rally the fugitives, was wounded in the leg. He continued, nev
ertheless, to fulfill his duty, both as a soldier in fighting and as a general in cheering the
troops and re-establishing order. The Count Pulaski, a noble Pole, also displayed an un
daunted courage, at the head of the lighthorse. The congress manifested their sense of
his merit by giving him, shortly after, the rank of brigadier, and the command of the cav
alry.
If all the American troops in the action of the Brandywine had fought with the same in
trepidity as the Virginians and Pennsylvanians, and especially if Washington had not been
led into error by a false report, perhaps, notwithstanding the inferiority of number and the
imperfection of arms, he would have gained the victory, or at least, would have made it
more sanguinary to the English. However this might have been, it must be admitted that
Gen. Howe's order of battle was excellent ; that his movements were executed with as
much ability as promptitude ; and that his troops, English as well as German, behaved ad
mirably well.
The day after the battle, toward evening, the English dispatched a detachment of light
troops to Wilmington, a place situated at the confluence of the Christiana and Brandy-
wine. There they took prisoner the governor of the state of Delaware, and seized a coiu
siderable quantity of coined money, as well as other property, both public and private, and
some papers of importance.
Lord Cornwallis entered Philadelphia the 26th of Sept., at the head of a detachment of
British and Hessian grenadiers. The rest of the army remained in the camp of German-
town. Thus the rich and populous capital of the whole confederation fell into the power
of the royalists, after a sanguinary battle, and a series of maneuvers, no less masterly than
painful, of the two armies. The Quakers, and all the other loyalists who had remained
there, welcomed the English with transports of gratulation. Washington, descending along
the left bank of the Schuylkill, approached within sixteen miles of Germantown. He en
camped at Skippach creek, proposing to accommodate his measures to the state of things.
522 PENNSYLVANIA
Some thirty years since, the Village Record, at "West Chester, published
the annexed interesting anecdotes upon the battle of Brandywine, from the
pen of J. J. Lewis, Esq.:
" 'Squire Cheyney first gave information to Washington of the near approach of Corn-
wallis. He had been within a short distance of the enemy, and with difficulty escaped their
grasp. Washington at first could scarcely credit the account of the squire, and directed
him to alight, and draw in the sand a draft of the roads. This was done promptly. Wash
ington still appearing to doubt, Cheyney, who was a strenuous whig, exclaimed, "Take my
l(fr, general, if I deceive I/OH." Washington was at length convinced.
Major Ferguson, commander of a small corps of riflemen attached to the British army,
mentions an incident which he says took place while his corps was concealed in a skirt of
:\ wood in front of Knyphausen's division. In a letter to Dr. Ferguson, he writes : " We
had not lain long when a rebel officer, remarkable for a hussar dress, passed toward our
army within one hundred yards of my right flank, not perceiving us. He was followed by
another dressed in dark green and blue, mounted on a good bay horse, with a remarkably
large high cocked hat. I ordered three good shots to steal near to them, and to fire at them;
but the idea disgusted me — I recalled the order. The hussar, in returning, made a circuit,
but the other passed within a hundred yards of us — upon which I advanced from the wood
toward him. Upon my calling he stopped, but after looking at me proceeded. I again
drew his attention, and made signs to him to stop ; but he slowly continued his way. As
I was within that distance at which, in the quickest firing, I could have lodged half a dozen
balls in or about him before he was out of my reach, I had only to determine ; but it was
not pleasant to fire at the back of an unoffending individual who was acquitting himself
very coolly of his duty, so I let him alone. The day after, I had been telling this story to
some wounded officers who lay in the same room with me, when one of our surgeons, who
had been dressing the wounded rebel officers, came in and told me that Gen. Washington
was all the morning with the light troops, and only attended by a French officer in a hussar
dress, he himself dressed and mounted in every respect as above described. I am not sorry
that I did not know at the time who it was."
An interesting anecdote is told of Lord Percy, which I have never seen in history, but
which I believe is very generally known and accredited. When he arrived, with the regi
ment he accompanied, in sight of the Americans ranged in order of battle, upon the hights
near Birmingham meeting house, he surveyed the field around him for a moment, and then
turning to his servant handed him his purse and gold watch to take charge of, remarking,
"This place I saw in a dream bpfore I left England, and I know that I shall fall Aere." The
coincidence was striking. The event verified the prediction. His name is not reported
among the slain in the British official account, because he held no commission in the army.
He was merely a volunteer.
"The Massacre of Paoli " as it has been called, took place in this vicinity,
on the night of the 20th of Sept., 1777, on the Lancaster turnpike, about two
miles south-west from the Paoli tavern. The annexed account is from Loss-
ing's Field Book :
Wayne encamped two or three miles south-west of the British lines, in a se
cluded spot, away from the public roads, near the place where the monument now
stands. The vigilance of British sentinels did not discover him, but the treachery
of Tories revealed his numbers and place of encampment to the commander of the
enemy. Howe determined to surprise Wayne, and for that purpose dispatched
General Grey to steal upon the patriot camp at night and destroy them. Wayne
had intimations of this intended movement, and, though doubting its truth, he
peglected no precaution. It was a dark and stormy night. Wayne ordered his
men to sleep on their arms, with their ammunition under their coats. With two reg
iments and a body of light infantry, Grey marched stealthily, in two divisions, to
ward midnight, through the woods and up a narrow defile below the Paoli, and
gained Wayne's left at about one o'clock in the morning. The divisions conjoined
in the Lancaster road, near Wayne's encampment. The "no-flint general" had
given his usual order to rush upon the patriots with fixed bavonets, without firing
a shot, and to give no quarters ! Several of the American pickets near the high
way were silently massacred in the gloom. These being missed by the patroling
officer, his suspicions that an enemy was near, were awakened, and he hastened to
the tent of Wayne. The general immediately paraded his men. Unfortunately,
PENNSYLVANIA. 523
he made the movement in the light of his own camp-fires, instead of forming them
in the dark, back of the encampment. By the light of these fires Grey was di
rected where to attack with the best chance of success.* Tn silence, but with the
fierceness of tigers, the enemy leapt from the thick gloom upon the Americans,
who knew not from what point to expect an attack. The patriots discharged sev
eral volleys, but so sudden and violent was the attack that their column was at once
broken into fragments. They fled in confusion in the direction of Chester. One
hundred and fifty Americans were killed and wounded in this onslaught, some of
whom it is said were cruelly butchered after ceasing to resist, and while begging for
quarter; and but for the sagacity of Wayne, his whole command must have been
killed or taken prisoners. He promptly rallied a few companies, ordered Col.
Humpton to wheel the line, and with the cavalry and a portion of the infantry, he
gallantly covered a successful retreat. Grey swept the American camp, captured
between seventy and eighty men, including several subordinate officers, a great
number of small arms, two pieces of cannon, and eight wagons loaded with bag
gage and stores. The loss of the British was inconsiderable ; only one captain of
light infantry and three privates were killed, and four men wounded. Gen. Small-
wood was only a mile distant at the time of the engagement, and made an unsuc
cessful attempt to march to the relief of Wayne. His raw militia were too de
ficient in discipline to make a sudden movement, and, before he could reach the
scene of conflict, Grey had completed his achievement, and was on his way toward
the British camp. Falling in with a party of the enemy retiring from the pursuit
of Wayne, Smallwood's militia instantly fled in great confusion, and were not ral
lied until a late hour the next day.
The dead bodies of fifty-three Americans were found on the field the next morn
ing, and were interred upon the spot, in one grave, by the neighboring farmers.
For forty years their resting place was marked by a simple heap of stones, around
which the plow of the agriculturist made its furrow nearer and nearer every sea
son. At length the "Republican Artillerists" of Chester county patriotically re
solved to erect a monument to their memory, and on the 20th of September, 1817,
the fortieth anniversary of the event, through the aid of their fellow-citizens, they
reared an oppropriate memento of marble, with suitable inscriptions.
HARRISBURG, a city, capital of Pennsylvania, and seat of justice for Dau
phin county, is on the E. bank of the Susquehanna, a short distance above
the mouth of Paxton creek, 100 miles W. by N. from Philadelphia, 200 from
Pittsburg, 85 from Baltimore, and 110 N. by E. from Washington City.
Population about 10,000. Harrisburg presents many attractions: for it is in
the midst of the fertile Kittatinny Valley, and looking out upon magnificent
scenery : with superior bridges, spanning the broad river : with railroads, canals
and turnpikes radiating from it in every direction.
The public buildings consist of about 12 churches, the state lunatic asy
lum, the court house, prison, masonic hall, etc., with the state buildings. The
state house, or capitol, with the public offices on either side of it, occupies a
fine eminence; the main building is 180 feet front by 80 feet deep, having a
circular portico in front, supported by six Ionic columns, surmounted by a
dome. The latter affords a delightful view of the broad river, with its verd
ant islands, and spanned by its fine bridges : the undulating fields of the val
ley, and the lofty barrier of the Kittatinny Mountains. The city is lighted
with gas, and supplied with water from a reservoir, into which it is elevated
from the Susquehanna, and conveyed by iron pipes. The river, though quite
*A Hessian sergeant, boasting of the exploits of that night, exultingly exclaimed, "What
a running about, barefoot, and half clothed, and in the light of their own fires 1 These
showed us where to chase them, while they could not see us. We killed three hundred of the
rebel* with the bayonet. I stuck them myself, like so many piQ8> one after another, until the blood
ran out of the touch-hole of my musket."
524
PENNSYLVANIA.
wide, is navigable only for rafts, which float with the current. Harrisbur"
bridge, over the Susquehanna, is a fine covered structure, extending to an
Southern view of Harrisburg.
The Railroad and Harrisburg bridges, over the Susquehanna, appear in the central part ; the state house
in the distance above the bridges ; the cotton factory on the left, and the insane asylum back from the city
011 the right.
island, and thence to the opposite side : 2,876 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 50
feet above the river. It was erected in 1817, by Mr. Burr, the distinguished
bridge architect, at a cost of $155,000, of which the state subscribed $90,000.
State House, Harrisburg.
A short distance below it, is the Cumberland Valley Railroad Bridge, a tine
and substantial structure, about a mile in length.
John Harris, the first settler at Harrisburg, is said to have been a native
of Yorkshire, England. He emigrated to America and first settled in Phil-
PENNSYLVANIA.
525
HARRIS' GRAVE, HARRISBXJRG.
adelphia ; from thence he moved to Chester county, then to the present site
of Bainbridge, in Lancaster county, and finally to the present site of Harris-
burg. At this place was born, about the year 1726, his son John Harris, the
founder of Harrisburg ; and who
is said to have been the first white
child born in Pennsylvania, west
of the Conewago Hills. The In
dians who resided in this neigh
borhood, were of the Six Nations.
Harris fixed his habitation on the
banks of the river, below the grave
yard. He traded extensively with
If the Indians; and had connected
with his house a large range of
sheds, which were sometimes lit
erally filled with skins and furs,
mostly obtained by him in traffic
with the Indians. These were
carried, at an* earlv day, on pack
horses to Philadelphia. His at
tention, however, was not confined to trading with the Indians: he engaged
extensively in agriculture, and it is said "he was the first person who intro
duced the plow on the Susquehanna."
An incident in the life of Harris possesses considerable interest. On one
occasion, a band of Indians came to his house and asked for rum : seeing they
were already intoxicated, he feared mischief, and refused. They became en
raged, and seized and tied him to a mulberry-tree to burn him. While they
were proceeding to execute their purpose, he was, after a struggle, released
by other Indians of the neighborhood. In remembrance of this event, he af
terward directed that on his death he should be buried under the mulberry-
tree which had been the scene of this adventure. He died in 1748, and his
remains still repose, with those of some of his children, at this memorable
spot: Part of the trunk of this tree is standing within the iron-railed inclo-
sure around the grave.
John Harris, jr., the founder of Harrisburg, died July 29, 1791, and is
buried in the graveyard of Paxton Church. Under the will of his father, and
by purchase, he became the owner of 700 acres of land, on a part of which
Harrisburg is laid out. In his time, "Harris' Ferry" became a celebrated
place. The law erecting Dauphin county, and declaring Harris' Ferry the
seat of justice, was passed in 1785. The town of Harrisburg was laid out
in the spring of the same year, by William Maclay, the son-in-law of John
Harris. It was incorporated a borough in 1808, and became the seat of the
state government in 1812.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments near the Lutheran
Church:
In memory of the Rev. GEORGE LOCHMAN, D.D., pastor of the Evangelical Lutheran con
gregations at Harrisburg, Middletown and Shapps, who departed this life on the 10th of
July, 1826, after having labored in the vineyard of his Lord 32 years. Aged 52 years 7
months and 2 days. As a proof of their affection, the Lutheran congregations at Harris
burg, Middletown and Shapps have erected this monrfment to the memory of their pastor.
Dedicated by sisterly love to the memory of WILLIAM LEHMAN, who died on the 29th of
March, A. D. 1829, in the 50th year of his age ; and whose remains are those of an exemplary
526
PENNSYLVANIA.
son and brother, an upright man, a liberal friend, a general scholar, and a most useful citi
zen. The proofs of his public spirit, intelligence and assiduity, are extant in the noble ca
nals and roads of his native state — Pennsylvania — which he either projected or considerably
advanced during twelve years of conspicuous service in her legislature, as one of the favorite
representatives of Philadelphia. The splendid results of his enlightened devotion to her
internal improvement, will cause his name to survive the stone on which it is here affection
ately inscribed, and to shine through all time in the bright annals of his favorite country.
LANCASTER CITY, the fourth in population in the state, is on the Philadel
phia and Columbia Railroad, near the Conestoga creek, 70 miles by railroad
W. from Philadelphia, and 37 E. S. E. from Harrisburg. It was for many
years the largest inland town in the United States, and was the seat of the
state government from 1799 to 1812. It is pleasantly situated, in the center
of a rich agricultural region, and carries on considerable trade by means of
railroads and the slack navigation of the Conestoga. The streets are gen
erally straight, crossing each other at right angles. The greater part of the
town is substantially built of brick, and many of the modern houses are ele
gant; the new court house is a magnificent structure, in the Grecian style,
Central Square, Lancaster.
The engraving shows the appearance of the north of the square at the intersection of King and Queen
streets, on market-day morning. The postoffice is in the building on the right, on the north side of which
is the market house.
erected at an expense of over $100,000, and a new county prison of sand
stone, at a cost of $110,000. The city contains about 20 churches, several
literary institutions, and a population of about 15,000 inhabitants, mostly of
German descent. Numerous manufactures are carried on in the town and
city, among which are several steam cotton factories and forges, a steam fur
nace, rolling mill, etc., and a large variety of mechanic shops.
The following, relative to the appearance of Lancaster in ancient times, is
extracted from a communication in the Lancaster Journal, of 1838, pur
porting to be written by "a bachelor of 80:"
" When I was a boy, our good city of Lancaster was quite a different affair from
what it is at present, with its Conestoga navigation, its railway, and improvements
PENNSYLVANIA. 527
of every kind. At the formerly quiet corner of North Queen and Chestnut streets,
where lived a few old fashioned German families, making fortunes by untiring in
dustry and the most minute economy, there is now nothing but bustle and confu
sion, arrivals and departures, of cars, stages, carriages, hacks, drays, and wheel
barrows, with hundreds of people, and thousands of tuns of merchandise.
1 can not help contrasting the present appearance of Orange street, witfc what it
was in my boyhood. At that time it was little more than a wide lane, with half a
dozen houses, nearly all of which are yet standing. The peaceable and retired
looking mansion, with the willow trees in front, at present inhabited by the widow
of Judge Franklin, I remember as a commission store, where trade was carried on
with a few Indians still in the neighborhood, and also with those from a greater
distance, who exchanged their furs and peltries for beads, blankets, cutlery, and
rum, as is still done in many parts of the western country. The house in which
the North American Hotel is kept, was occupied by the land commissioners a
few years later.
Annually, in those days, a fair was held on the first Thursday and Friday in
June. You could hardly see the street for the tables and booths, covered with mer
chandise and trinkets of every kind, there were silks, laces, and jewelry, calicoes, gin
ger-bread, and sweetmeats, such as the ladies love ; and that was the time they got
plenty of them, too, for the young fellows used to hoard up their pocket money for
months together, to spend at the fair; and no girl felt ashamed to be treated to a
fairing, even by a lad she had never seen before. This was the first step toward
expressing admiration, and she who got the most fairings was considered as the
belle. Then the corners of the streets were taken up with mountebanks, rope-
dancers, and all the latest amusements."
Few events have caused more excitement, in their day, than the mur
der of the Conestoga Indians, in this vicinity, by the Paxton men, in the
time of the French and border wars. Many of the families of the Paxton
settlers had suffered by the Indian tomahawk, and it was suspected by them
that the hostile Indians were harbored, if not encouraged, by the friendly
Indians at Conestoga and among the Moravians. A deadly animosity was
thus raised among the Paxton men against all of Indian blood, and against
the peaceful and benevolent Moravians, and Friends, or Quakers. The fol
lowing narrative is from Day's Hist. Coll., of Pennsylvania:
"On the night of the 14th Dec., 1763, a number of armed and mounted men,
from the townships of Donnegal and Paxton, most of them belonging to the com
pany of frontier Rangers of those townships, concerted an attack on the Indians
at Conestoga, for the purpose, as they alleged, of securing one or more hostile In
dians, who were harbored there, and who were supposed to have recently mur
dered several families of the whites. The number of the Paxton men is variously
estimated from 20 to upward of 50. Few of the Indians were at home — the men,
probably, being absent either in hunting or trading their baskets and furs at Lan
caster. In the dead of night, the white men fell upon the village : some defense
was doubtless attempted by the few male Indians present (Dr. Fradklin's narra
tive says there were only three men, two women, and a young boy), but they were
overpowered, and the whole, men, women and children, fell victims to the rifle,
the tomahawk, and the knife of the frontier-men. The dwellings were burnt to
the ground.
The citizens and magistrates of Lancaster, shocked at the horrible outrage, with
commendable humanity, gathered the scattered individuals of the tribe who re
mained into the stone work-house at Lancaster, where, under bolts and bars, and
the strict supervision of the keeper, they could not doubt but the Indians would
be safe until they could be conveyed to Philadelphia, for more secure protection.
But the Paxton men were satisfied with nothing short of the extermination of
the tribe, alleging, however, that one or two of the hostile Indians were still among
the Indians protected by the civil authority at Lancaster. Concealing themselves
at night near Lancaster, they waited until the next day, 27th Dec., when the whole
community was engaged in the solemnities of the sanctuary; then, riding suddenly
528 PENNSYLVANIA.
into town at a gallop, the band seized upon the keeper of the work-house and over
powered him, and rushing into the prison, the work of death was speedily accom
plished : the poor Indians, about 14 in number, were left weltering in gore, while
the Paxton men left the town in the same haste with which they had entered it.
The alarm was raised through the town ; but, before the citizens could assemble,
the murderers were beyond their reach. In consequence of this affair, the Mora
vian Indians, from Wyalusing and Nain, who had come to Philadelphia for pro
tection, were removed to Province Island, near the city, and placed under the
charge of the garrison.
The Paxton men, elated by their recent success, assembled in greater numbers
early in January, and threatened to march to Philadelphia in a body, and destroy
the Indians there. The people of the city were prodigiously alarmed, and several
companies of foot, horse, and artillery were formed to repel the expected attack.
The Paxton men, Avho had approached the Schuylkill on their march, finding such
a force prepared to receive them, returned home.
A proclamation was issued by the governor, expressing the strongest indignation
at the outrage at Conestoga and Lancaster, and offering a reward for the arrest of
the perpetrators; but such was the state of public opinion in the interior counties,
that no one dared to bring the offenders to justice, although they mingled openly
among their fellow-citizens."
President Buchanan's Residence. WTieatland, Lancaster.
Quite a number of prominent men have been natives or residents of Lan
caster county, or city. Robert Fulton, so well known by his steamboat in
ventions, was born in Little Britain, in Lancaster county. He received his
education in Lancaster, where his parents removed soon after his birth. The
parents of John C. Calhoun resided, in Dromore township, in this county,
removed to South Carolina, a short time before the birth of the distinguished
senator. Edward Shippen, and his son of the same name, both held high
offices under the colonial government.
JAMES BUCHANAN, president of the United States, though born in Frank
lin county, has, for a long period, resided in Lancaster. His house is situ
ated a mile or more westward of the city, in a grove of ornamental trees,
and in the midst of the luxuriant wheat-fields of this section. In the ceme
tery of the Episcopal Church in Lancaster, is the monument of Gov. Thomas
Mifflin, erected by order of the legislature. The remains of Thomas Whar-
ton, the first president of the supreme executive council, also repose in Lan
caster.
PENNSYLVANIA. 529
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the cemeteries
of the German Reformed and Lutheran Churches :
St. John Chap, xii, 26. Where I am there shall my servant be also. Erected by the members
of this Congregation, to perpetuate the memory and pious services of the REV. JOHN HEN
RY HOFFMEIER, born at Anhalt Koeten, Germany, March XVII, MDCCLX. He was a
graduate at the Theological University, at Halle, A. D., MDCCLXXXXIII. He became
pastor of this Congregation A. D. MDCCCVI, and died a faithful servant of the Lord Jesus
Christ, A. D., MDCCCXXXVIII.
Sacred to the memory of JOHN HUBLEY, Esq. A member of the State Convention that
framed its constitution in various offices of trust and employment, and trust in the City and
County as Warden, Elder, and for many years Trustee and Vice- President of this Congre
gation: as neighbor, Friend, Husband, Parent, he was respected, beloved, revered. Hav
ing arrived at the age of 73 years, 5 Mo. and 27 days, he departed this life the 21st day of
June, A. D. 1821.
Ilier ruhen die Gebeine GOTTHILF HEINRICH MUHLENBERG'S, S. T. D. der diese Gemeine
37 Jahre lang mit dem Evangelio von Christo als ein treure Ilirte geweidet hat. Sein Geist
entriss sich froh der hier nieder gesenkten Hutte den 23tcn Mai, 1815; im 62ten Jahre Sei
ner Pilgrimschaft. Die ganze Gemeine beklagt in Ihm den groszen verlust eines vaters
und treuen Lehrers, Einer Witwe und acht Kindern die Ihm dieses Denkinal errichten
blerbt Sein Andenkin heilig.
Heil Dir Du hast nach truben Kumer Stunden
Auf ewig Huh' in deinem Herrn gefunden
Wir Kaempfen noch ; der Herr sich uns're Thraenen
Womit nach Wiedersehn wir uns hier sehnen.
This monument, which covers the remains of the REV'D. CHRISTIAN L. F. ENDRESS, D.D.
has been erected by his friends, as a mark of their affection and a tribute to his worth. He
served this Congregation as their faithful pastor for 12 years, and having completed 30
years of his ministry, and the 52d year of his age, he was, on the 30th of Sept., 1827,
gathered to his Fathers, a bright example of peace and confidence that spring from the faith
that he had so long and faithfully taught. Peace to his Soul.
EASTON, a borough, and the capital of Northampton county, Pennsylva
nia, is situated on the W. side of the Delaware, on a point of land at the
confluence of Lehigh River and Bushkill creek, with the Delaware about
100 miles E., N. E. of Harrisburg, 78 by the New Jersey Central Railroad,
from New York, and 56 N. from Philadelphia. The streets are regularly laid
out, crossing each other at right angles, and forming, in the center of the
borough, a square area, on which stands the court house. That part of Eas-
ton which adjoins the Delaware river is level, but is elevated above the
river, and the ground rises gradually to a considerable elevation on the west:
fine bridges span the various streams mentioned. As a business place, Eas-
ton is one of the most flourishing in the state, being advantageously situated
at the junction of the Delaware, Lehigh, and Morris Canals, by which vast
quantities of coal, lumber, grain, and other produce are exported. A rail
road on the opposite bank of the Delaware, in Phillipsburg, N. J., connects
this town with Philadelphia and with Belvidere. The town has great water
power, and is the seat of extensive manufactures, among which are flouring
mills, oil mills, iron foundries, saw mills, cotton and other factories. Im
mense quantities of the best kinds of iron ore are found in the vicinity. The
scenery at Easton and its vicinity, is uncommonly picturesque and beautiful.
The three prominent gorges in the Kittatinny Mountains, the Lehigh and
Delaware Water-gaps and the Wind-gap, celebrated for their striking and
picturesque appearance, are all within 25 miles of Easton.
Easton, including South Easton, contains about 12,000 inhabitants. La-
Fayette College is on an eminence 184 feet above the water of Bushkill
530
PENNSYLVANIA.
creek at its base : this eminence descends abruptly to the bridge over the
creek, and is ascended by a long flight of steps. It had its origin in the ex
ertions of the Hon. J. M. Porter, afterward secretary of war, and a number
of other citizens of Easton. It was originally designed for a military school ;
but this plan not meeting with general approbation, it was changed in 1832,
to that of a collegiate institution on the manual labor system. It is now un
der the patronage of the Synod of Philadelphia.
South-eastern view of Easton, from PhiUipsburg.
The view is from the New J ersey side of the Delaware, at the termination of the New Jersey Central
Railroad, where it connects with the Lehigh Valley Railroad. The Belvidere and Delaware Railroad
passes underneath the railroad bridge on the left. Part of the Delaware bridge, with LaFayette College
in the distance on the hights, is seen on the right.
Easton was quite a place for holding councils with the Indian chiefs be
tween the years 1754 and 1761, while the French were endeavoring to draw
away the tribes on the Susquehanna and Ohio, from their allegiance to
the English. From 200 to 500 Indians and many of the leading men of
this and the other colonies, were often present on these occasions. During
the course of these negotiations, Teedyuscung, the Delaware chief, by his
eloquence, weight of character, and by the firmness and cunning of his di
plomacy, succeeded, in a great degree, in redeeming his nation from their
degrading vassalage to the Six Nations. He also secured from the colonial
government some reparation for the wrongs done his nation by the whites.
He appears to have obtained these advantages by the assistance and advice
he received from the Friends or Quakers.
" The Forks of the Delaware" is the ancient name by which not only the
site of the present town of Easton was known, but the whole territory in
cluded between the Lehigh and Delaware Rivers, and bounded on the north
west by the Kittatinny or Blue Mountain. The Indian title to these lands
was pretended to have been extinguished by what is known as the u walking
purchase" or the " Indian walk.1 William Penn and his agents, owing to
their ignorance of the topography of the wilderness in the interior, were
quite vague in defining the extent of their purchases from the Indians, by
PENNSYLVANIA.
531
using such terms as these, " to run two days' journey with a horse up the coun
try" " or as far as a man can go in two days from said station," etc. The pro
prietors, in order to obtain a claim to as much land as possible, advertised
for the most expert walkers in the province, offering 500 acres of land any
where in the purchase, and a sum of money to the person who should walk
the furtherest. The walk was performed in September, 1737. There was
evidently much overreaching in this transaction, and the Indians considered
themselves so much wronged, that it led them to join the French in 1755.
The Rev. David Brainard,. perhaps the most devoted and self-denying mis
sionary of modern times, labored among the Indians at the Forks of the Del
aware about three years, when his feeble frame sunk under the exposure of
the wilderness. He returned home from the Susquehanna, sick, and died in
New England, Oct. 9, 1747. He built himself a cabin near the ancient
Bethel Presbyterian Church, about seven miles northward from Easton.
The wild and romantic passage of
the Delaware through the Blue or
Shawangunk Mountain, is about 20
miles above Easton ; and when ap
proached from the south, the view is
highly attractive. The engraving
shows it as seen from this direction ;
the mountain on the right is in New
Jersey; on the left, in Pennsylvania.
The traveler coming from the south,
sees the Blue Mountain running south
westerly, in an unvarying line, for per
haps 50 miles, and forming the bound
ary of the horizon. The range rises nearly 2,000 feet, and forms one un
broken wall of blue, excepting where two deep notches appear to be cut
through it. The first is the Water-Gap, the opening for the Delaware,
here the boundary between New Jersey and Pennsylvania; the second the
Wind-Gap, 14 miles south-westerly from it, in Pennsylvania.
Bethlehem, the principal town of the United Brethren, or Moravians, in
the United States, occupies an elevated site on the left bank of Lehigh
River, 11 miles above Easton, and 51 north from Philadelphia, and is an
agreeable place of resort during the summer. The town was founded by the
Moravians, in 1741. They have a large stone church, in the Gothic style,
and a female seminary, which enjoys a high reputation, beside other schools
arid benevolent institutions. Population upward of 2,000. All the proper
ty at Bethlehem belongs to the society, who lease out the lots only to mem
bers of their own communion. Nazareth is a village of about 400 inhabit
ants, about nine miles north-west from Easton. It contains a large church
and a nourishing academy for boys, conducted by the Moravians. The vil
lage was first begun by the celebrated George Whitefield, in 1739. He com
menced a building intended for a school for African children, but before it
was finished, he disposed of it to Count Zinzendorf, who completed tin
edifice.
At the close of the year 1741, Count Zinzendorf arrived in America ; and in the ensu
ing summer of 1742. visited Bethlehem. While here he made a missionary tour among
the villages of the red men in the neighborhood, accompanied by his daughter Benigna,
and several brethren and sisters — learning their manners, securing their affections, and
DELAWARE WATER-GAP.
34
532 PENNSYLVANIA.
preaching to those ferocious warriors the gospel of peace. " His first visit was to the In
dian Patemi [Tademy ?], who lived not far from Nazareth. He (Patemi) was a man of
remarkably quiet and modest deportment, spoke English well, arid regulated his house
keeping much in the European style." They also visited Clistowacka, and another Indian
town, chiefly inhabited by Delawares ; and then proceeded over the Blue Mountain to Po
chapuchkung and Meniolagomekah. The count also extended his tour to Tulpehocken,
the residence of Conrad Weiser, and to the Shawanees and Delawares of Wyoming and
Shamokin. He returned to Europe in 1743.
Bethlehem and Nazareth continued to increase and prosper ; new brethren came from
other stations to labor here ; and many believing Indians were baptized. Bethlehem be
came a central and controlling station, from which the brethren took their instructions from
the elders, on their departure, from time to time, for the* different outposts of the mission
on the upper Lehigh, the Susquehanna, and eventually in the distant wilds of the Alleghe
ny and Ohio Rivers. Little villages of Christain Indians, Huts of Grace, Huts of Peace,
Huts of Mercy, were organized at various points, under the Society's regulations, where
the converts might grow in grace, unmolested by the heathenish rites and revels of their
untamed brethren. Rauch, Buettner, Senseman, Mack, Christian Frederick Post, Hecke-
welder, Zeisberger, Bishop Nischman, Bishop Cammerhoff, Bishop Spangenberg, and oth
ers, were the laborers in this self-denying enterprise. So frequent were the visits of the
missionaries and Christian Indians to the Susquehanna, that a beaten path was worn across
the Nescopeck Mountains, betweeu Gnadenhutten and Wyoming.
" The Moravians are fond of music, and in their church, at Bethlehem, besides a
fine-toned organ, they have a full band of instruments. When a member of the commu
nity dies, they have a peculiar ceremony : four musicians ascend to the tower of the church
with trumpets, and announce the event by performing the death dirge. The body is imme
diately removed to the house appointed for the dead — ' the corpse-house ' — where the re
mains are deposited for three days. The weeping willows, whose branches overhang this
resting place for the dead, convey an impression of the solemnity and silence which reigns
in the narrow house prepared for all mankind. It stands detached from all other build
ings ; excluded from all communication with the stir and bustle of business, and appears
in character with the purpose to which it is devoted. On the third day the funeral service
is performed at the church. The corpse is brought from the dead house to the lawn in
front, and after several strains of solemn music, the procession moves toward the grave,
with the band still playing, which is continued some time after the coffin is deposited. The
graveyard is kept with perfect neatness. The graves are in rows, on each of which is
placed a plain white stone, about twelve inches square, on which is engraved the name of
the deceased, and date of his birth and death ; nothing more is allowed by the regulations
of the society. A stone, rude as it may be, is sufficient to tell where we lie, and it mat
ters little to him on whose pulseless bosom it reposes. The ground is divided into various
apartments for males, females, adults, children, and strangers. Among the many graves
there is that of the pious Heckew elder, born 1743, died in 1823.
WILKESBARRE, a borough and seat of justice of Luzerne county, is sit
uated on the left or south-eastern bank of the north branch of the Sus
quehanna, about 114 miles N. E. from Harrisburg, and 120 N. N. W. of
Philadelphia. The town was laid out by Col. Durkee, in 1773, who gave it
the compound name it bears, in honor of two distinguished members of the
British Parliament, Wilkes&nd .Sarre, who advocated the American cause. The
borough contains the county buildings, several churches and academies, and
about 3,500 inhabitants. Its trade is facilitated by the North Branch Ca
nal, and by railroad with New York, and elsewhere by the branch extending
to Scranton, 16 miles distant, from Kingston, on the opposite bank of the
Susquehanna. Large quantities of anthracite coal are found in the beds which
surround the town, and which are among the thickest in the state.
The first settlers of this town and the Wyoming valley in which it is sit
uated, were principally from Connecticut, and this beautiful tract was once
considered as being within the limits of that state. In 1774, this tract was
formed into a town, by the name of Westmoreland, which sent its represen
tatives to the assembly of Connecticut. The inhabitants are a highly intelli-
PENNSYLVANIA.
533
gent and moral people, retaining, in a good degree, the manners, habits and
enterprise of their New England ancestors. The valley of Wyoming is one
of the most beautiful spots in its natural features, and one of the richest in
historical associations among the localities of our country. The site of Fort
Wyoming was where the court house now stands ; there was another fort a
little below the bridge. Fort Durkee was half a mile below, and on the hill,
north of the village, the remains of the old redoubts are still visible.
North-western view in the central part of Wilkexbarre.
The view shows the appearance of the public; square, or dwniftnd, as entered by the road from the Susqne-
hanna bridge, 30 or 40 rods distant. The new court house is seen in the central part ; the academy on the
left ; the ancient court house on the right.
The following account of the battle of Wyoming, etc., is extracted from
Day's Historical Collections of Pennsylvania:
Late in June, 1778, there descended the Susquehauna, Col. John Butler, with his
own tory rangers, a detachment of Sir John Johnson's Royal Greens, and a large
body of Indians, chiefly Senccas. The British and tories numbered about 400 —
the Indians about 700. Jenkins' Fort was at the head of the valley, just below the
gorge. This fort capitulated on the 2d of July, to a detachment under Capt. Cald-
well. Wintermoot's Fort had been built near Jenkins', by a Low Dutch family
of that name, with a view, as afterward appeared, to aid the incursions of the to
ries. As suspected, Wintermoot's Fort at once threw open its gates to the enemy.
Here the British and Indian force was assembled at dinner just before the battle.
To defend the settlement against this force, was a half-raised company of Capt
Deathic [Doeterick] Hewitt, consisting of 40 or 50 men, and the militia, the re
mains merely, out of which the three companies above mentioned had been en
listed for the continental army. There were several forts at Wyoming — not regu
lar fortifications, with walls, and embrazures, and great guns — but stockades, built
by setting logs on end in ditchesv close together, surrounding a space for the re
treat of the women and children, with no other means of defense than the small-
arms of the men, firing through loop-holes. In all Wyoming Valley there was but
one cannon, a four-pounder, without ball, kept at the Wilkesbarre Fort as an alarm
tz;un. Against such a force as the enemy mustered, not one of these forts could
have held out an hour, or kept the foe from reducing them to ashes. Some of the
aged men out of the train-bands formed themselves into companies to garrison the
forts, and yield to the helpless such protection as they could. Except at Fittston —
which, from its position, was imminently exposed — no company of the Wyoming
534 PENNSYLVANIA.
regiment was retained for partial defense. All the rest assembled at Forty Fort,
on the Kingston side, prepared in the best manner they could to meet the enemy.
They numbered about 400 men and boys, including many not in the train-band.
Old, gray-headed men, and grandfathers, turned out to the muster.
Col. Zebulon Butler happened to be at Wyoming at the time, and though he had
no proper command, by invitation of the people, he placed himself at their head,
and led them to battle. There never was more courage displayed in the various
scenes of war. History does not portray an instance of more gallant devotion.
There was no other alternative but to fight and conquer, or die ; for retreat with
their families was impossible. Like brave men, they took counsel of their cour
age. On the 3d of July they inarched out to meet the enemy. Col. Zebulon But
ler commanded the right wing, aided by Maj. Garret. Col. Dennison commanded
the left, assisted by Lieut. Col George Dorrance. The field of fight was a plain,
partly cleared and partly covered with scrub-oak and yellow-pine. The right of
the Wyoming men rested on a steep bank, which descends to the low river-flats;
the left extended to a marsh, thickly covered with timber and brush. Opposed to
Col. Zebulon Butler, of Wyoming, was Col. John Butler, with his tory rangers, in
their green uniform. The enemy's right wing, opposed to Col. Dennison, was
chiefly composed of Indians.
It was between four and five o'clock in the afternoon when the engagement be
gan, and for some time it was kept up with great spirit. On the right, in open field,
our men fired and advanced a step, and the enemy was driven back. But their
numbers, nearly three to one, enabled them to outflank our men, especially on the
left, where the ground, a swamp, was exactly fitted for savage warfare. Our men
fell rapidly before the Indian rifles; the rear as well as the flank was gained, and
it became impossible to maintain the position. An order to fall back, given by
Col. Dennison, so as to present a better front to the enemy, could not be executed
without confusion (and some misunderstood it as a signal for retreat). The prac
ticed enemy — not more brave, but, beside being more numerous, familiarized to
war in fifty battles — sprang forward, raised their horrid yell from one end of the
line to the other, rushed in with the tomahawk and spear, and our people were
defeated. When the left was thrown into confusion, our Col. Butler threw himself
in front, and rode between the two lines, exposed to the double fire. "Don't leave
me, my children" said he; "the victory will be ours." But what could 400 un
disciplined militia effect against 1 100 veteran troops ? The battle was lost! Then
followed the most dreadful massacre — the most heart-rending tortures. The brave
but overpowered soldiers of Wyoming were slaughtered without mercy, princi
pally in the flight, and after surrendering themselves prisoners of war. The plain,
the river, and the island of Monockonock were the principal scenes of this hor
rible massacre. Sixteen men, placed in a ring around a rock (which is still shown,
behind the house of Mr. Gay. near the river) were held by stout Indians, while
they were one by one slaughtered by the knife or tomahawk of a squaw. One in
dividual, a strong man, by the name of Hammond, escaped by a desperate effort.
In another similar ring, nine persons were murdered in the same way. Many
were shot in the river, and hunted out and slain in their hiding plates (in one in
stance by a near, but adverse relative), on the now beautiful island of Monocko
nock. But sixty of the men who went into the battle survived ; and the forts were
filled with widows and orphans (it is said the war made 150 widows and 600 or
phans in the valley), whose tears and cries were suppressed after the surrender
for fear of provoking the Indians to kill them — for it was an Indian's pastime to
brandish the tomahawk over their heads.
A few instances will show how universal was the turn-out, and how general was
the slaughter. Of the Gore family, one was away with the army, five brothers and
two brothers-in-law went into the battle. At evening five lay dead on the field, one
returned with his arm broken by a rifle-ball; the other, and only one, unhurt.
From the farm of Mr. Weeks, seven went out to battle — five sons and sons-in-law,
and two inmates. Not one escaped — the whole seven perished. Anderson Dana
went into battle with Stephen Whiting, his son-in-law, a few months before mar
ried to his daughter. The dreadful necessity of the hour allowed no exemption
like that of the Jewish law, by which the young bridegroom might remain at home
PENNSYLVANIA. 535
for one year, to cheer up his bride. The field of death was the resting-place of
both. Anderson Dana, jr., still living — then a boy of nine or ten years old — was
left the only protector of the family. They fled, and begged their way to Con
necticut. Of the Inman family, there were five present in the battle. Two foil in
the battle, another died of the fatigues and exposure of the day; another was killed
the same year by the Indians.
About two-thirds of those who went out, fell. Naked, panting and bloody, a few,
who had escaped, came rushing into Wilkesbarre Fort, where, trembling with anx
iety, the women and children were gathered, waiting the dread issue. Mr. Hollen-
back, who had swum the river naked, amid the balls of the enemy, was the first to
bring them the appalling news — "All is lost!" They fled to the mountains, and
down the river. Their sufferings were extreme. Many widows and orphans
begged their bread on their way home to their friends in Connecticut. In one
party, of near a hundred, there was but a single man. As it was understood that
no quarter would be given to the soldiers of the line, Col. Zebulon Butler, with the
few other soldiers who had escaped, retired that same evening, with the families,
from Wilkesbarre Fort.
But — those left at Forty Fort ? During the battle, says the venerable Mrs. My
ers, who, then a child, was there, they could step on the river bank and hear the firing
distinctly. For a while it was kept up with spirit, and hope prevailed ; but by and
by it became broken and irregular, approaching nearer and nearer. u Our people
are defeated — they are retreating!" It was a dreadful moment. Just at even
ing a few of the fugitives rushed in, and fell down exhausted — some wounded and
bloody. Through the night, every hour one or more came into the fort. Col. Den-
nison also came" in, and rallying enough of the wreck of the little Spartan band to
make a mere show of defending the fort, he succeeded the next day in entering
into a capitulation for the settlement, with Col. John Butler, fair and honorable
for the circumstances, by which, doubtless, many lives were saved.
Most of the settlers had fled after the battle and massacre; but here and
there a family remained, or returned soon after. Skulking parties of Indians
continued to prowl about the valley, and kill, plunder and scalp as oppor
tunity offered. It was at this time a little girl, named Frances Slocum, was
taken captive by the Indians. The strange story of her life is thus told in
the Philadelphia North American, in 1839:
At a little distance from the present court house at Wilkesbarre, lived a family by the
name of Slocum [Mr. Jonathan Slocum]. The men were one day away in the fields, and
in an instant the house was surrounded by Indians. There were in it, a mother, a daugh
ter about nine years of age, a son aged thirteen, another daughter aged five, and a little
boy aged two and a half. A young man, and a boy by the name of Kingsley, were pres
ent grinding a knife. The first thing the Indians did was to shoot down the young man
and scalp him with the knife which he had in his hand. The nine-year old sister took the
little boy two years and a half old, and ran out of the back door to get to the fort. The
Indians chased her just enough to see her fright, and to have a hearty laugh, as she ran
and clung to and lifted her chubby litile brother. They then took the Kingsley boy and
young Slocum, aged thirteen, and little Frances, aged five, and prepared to depart. But
finding young Slocum lame, at the earnest entreaties of the mother, they Set him down and
left him. Their captives were then young Kingsley and the litte girl. The mother's heart
swelled unutterably, and for years she could not describe the scene without tears. She saw
an Indian throw her child over his shoulder, and as her hair fell over her face, with one hand
she brushed it aside, while the tears fell from her distended eyes, and stretching out her
other hand toward her mother, she called for her aid. The Indian turned into the bushes,
and this was the last seen of little Frances. This image, probably, was carried by the
mother to her grave. About a month after this they came again, and with the most awful
cruelties murdered the aged grandfather, and shot a ball in the leg of the lame boy. This
he carried with him in his leg nearly six years, to the grave. The last child was born a lew
months after these tragedies ! What were the conversations, the conjectures, the hopes and
the fears concerning the fate of little Frances, I will not attempt to describe.
As the boys grew up and became men, they were very anxious to know the fate of their
little fair-haired sister. They wrote letters, they sent inquiries, they made journeys through
all the west and into the Canadas. Four of these journeys were made in vain. A silence
PENNSYLVANIA.
deep as that of the forest through which they wandered, hung over her fate during sixty
years.
My reader will now pass over fifty-eight years, and suppose himself far in the wilderness
of Indiana, on the bank of the Mississinewa, about fifty miles south-west of Fort Wayne.
A very respectable agent of the United States — Hon. George W. EwSng, of Peru, Ind. — is
traveling there, and weary and belated, with a tired horse, he stops in an Indian wigwam
for the night. He can speak the Indian language. The family are rich for Indians, and
have horses and skins in abundance. In the course of the evening, he notices that the hair
of the woman is light, and her skin under her dress is also white. This led to a conver
sation. She told him she was a white child, but had been carried away when a very small
girl. She could only remember that her name was Slocum, that she lived in a little house
on the banks of the Susquehanna, and how many there were in her father's family, and
the order of their ages. But the name of the town she could not remember. On reaching
his home, the agent mentioned this story to his mother. She urged and pressed him to
write and print the account. Accordingly he wrote it, and sent it to Lancaster in this
state, requesting that it might be published. By some, to me, unaccountable blunder, it
lay in the office two years before it was published. In a few days it fell into the hands of
Mr. Slocum, of Wilkesbarre, who was the little two year and a half old boy, when Frances
was taken. In a few days he was off to seek his sister, taking with him his oldest sister
(the one who aided him to escape), and writing to a brother who now lives in Ohio, and
who I believe was born after the captivity, to meet him and go with him.
The two brothers and sister are now (1838) on their way to seek little Frances, just sixty
years after her captivity. They reach the Indian country, the home of the Miami Indians.
Nine miles from the nearest white settlement they find the little wigwam. " I shall knovr
my sister," said the civilized sister, "because she lost the nail of her first finger. You,
brother, hammered it off in the blacksmith-shop when she was four years old." They
go into the cabin, and find an Indian woman having the appearance of seventy-five. She
is painted and jeweled off, and dressed like the Indians in all respects. Nothing but her
hair and covered skin would indicate her origin. They get an interpreter, and begin to
converse. She tells them where she was born, her name, etc., with the order of her fath
er's family. "How came your nail gone?" said the oldest sister. "My older brother
pounded it off when I was a little child in the shop." In a word, they were satisfied that
-this was Frances, their long-lost sister ! They asked her what her Christian name was.
She did not remember. " Was it Frances ? " She smiled, and said " yes." It was the
first time she had heard it pronounced for sixty years ! Here, then, they were met — two
brothers and two sisters ! They were all satisfied they were brothers and sisters ; but what
a contrast ! The brothers were walking the cabin, unable to speak : the oldest sister was
weeping, but the poor Indian sister sat motionless and passionless, as indifferent as a spec
tator. There was no throbbing, no fine chords in her bosom to be touched.
When Mr. Slocum was giving me this history, I said to him, " But could she not speak
English?" " Not a word." " Did she know her age ?" "No — had no idea of it." "But
was she entirely ignorant ?" "Sir, she did'nt know when Sunday comes ! " This was, in
deed, the consummation of ignorance in a descendant of the Puritans !
But what a picture for a painter would the inside of that cabin have afforded ? Here
were the children of civilization, respectable, temperate, intelligent and wealthy, able to
overcome mountains to recover their sister. There was the child of the forest, not able to
tell the day of the week, whose views and feelings were all confined to that cabin. Her
whole history might be told in a word. She lived with the Delawares who carried her off
until grown up, and then married a Delaware. He either died or ran away, and she then
married a Miami Indian, a chief, as I believe. She has two daughters, both of whom are
married, and who live in all the glory of an Indian cabin, deerskin clothes, and cowskiu
head-dresses. No one of the family can speak a word of English. They have horses in
abundance, and when the Indian sister wanted to accompany her new relatives, she whipped
out, bridled her horse, and then, a la Turk, mounted astride, and was off. At night she
could throw a blanket around her, down upon the floor, and at once be asleep.
The brothers and sister tried to persuade their lost sister to return with them, and, if
she desired it, bring her children. They would transplant her again to the banks of the
Susquehanna, and of their wealth make her home happy. But, no ; she had always lived
with the Indians ; they had always been kind to her, and she had promised her late hus
band on his death-bed, that she would never leave the Indians. And there they left her
and hers, wild and darkened heathen, though sprung from a pious race. You can hardly
imagine how much this brother is interested for her. He intends this autumn to go again
that long journey to see his tawny sister — to carry her presents, and perhaps will petition
congress that, if these Miamis are driven off, there may be a tract of land reserved for his
sister and her descendants. His heart yearns with an indescribable tenderness for the poor
helpless one, who, sixty-one years ago, was torn from the arms of her mother. Mysterious
PENNSYLVANIA.
537
Providence ! How wonderful the tie which can thus bind a family together with a chain
so strong !
I will only add that nothing has ever been heard of the boy Kingsley. The probability
certainly is, that he is not living. This account I had from the lips of Mr. Slocum, the
brother, and the game who was two and a half years old when little Frances was carried
away.
The battle of Wyoming took place upward of five miles north from Wilkes-
barre, on the opposite side of the Susquehanna. The monument raised over the
remains of the killed is on the eastern side of
the village road, in the vicinity of the Luzerne
Institute. It is 62 feet higli, constructed of
hewn blocks of granite, and stands upon the
spot where the dead were buried in the autumn
succeeding the battle. The names of those
who fell, as far as could be ascertained, and
also the names of the survivors of the battle,
are engraved on marble tablets in the order
following :
Near this spot, on the afternoon of Friday,
the third of July, 1778, THE BATTLE OF WYO
MING, in which a small band of patriotic Amer
icans, chiefly the undisciplined, the youthful,
and the aged, spared by inefficiency from the
distant ranks of the republic, led by Col. Zeb-
ulori Butler and Col. Nathan Dennison, with a
courage that deserved success, boldly met and
bravely fought a combined British, tory and
Indian force of thrice their number. Nu
merical superiority alone gave success to the
invader, and wide-spread havoc, desolation and
ruin marked his savage and bloody footsteps
through the valley. THIS MONUMENT, com
memorative of these events, and of the actors
in them, has been erected OVER THE BONES OF
THE SLAIN by their descendants, who gratefully appreciate the services of their
patriot ancestors.
Dulce et decorum est pro patria mori. Slain in battle: Field Officers — Lieut.
Col. George Dorrance, Major John Garret. Captains — James Bidlac, jr., Aholiab
Buck, Robert Durkee, Rezin Geer, Asaph Whittlesey, Deathic Hewitt, William
McKerachan, Samuel Ransom, Lazarus Stewart, James Wigton. Lieutenants —
A. Atherton, Stoddard Bowin, Aaron Gay lord, Timothy Pierce, Perrin Ross, Elijah
Shoemaker, Lazarus Stewart, jr., Asa Stevens, Flavius Waterman, James Wells,
Ensigns — Jeremiah Bigford, Asa Gore, Silas Gore, Titus Hinman, John Otis, Wil
liam White. Privates — Jabez Atherton, Christ. A very, Ake, A. Benedict,
Jabez Beers, Samuel Bigford, Chas. Bixby, David Bixby, John Boyd, John Brown,
Thomas Brown, William" Buck, Joseph Budd, Amos Bullock, Asa Bullock, Henry
Bush, John Caldwell, Isaac Campbell, Josiah Cameron, Joseph Carey, Joel Church,
James Coffrin, Samuel Cole, Robert Comstock, Cook, Brothers Cook, Christ.
Cortright, John Cortright. Anson Cory, Rufus Cory, Jenks Cory, Samuel Crooker,
Joseph Crooker, Jabez Darling, D. Denton, Conrad Davenport. [Here follows the
list of the survivors.]
ftcranton, a new town, about 16 miles N. E. from Wilkesbarre, and 97 N.
N. E. from Harrisburg, is one of the most flourishing places in the Lacka-
wanna coal regions, and the center of a large trade. Iron ore and rich coal
mines are worked in the vicinity, and these productions are sent to market
by railroads, recently constructed. The Delaware, Lackawanna and Western
Railroad connects it with New York city and the west. This place is au
BATTLE MONUMENT, WYOMING.
PENNSYLVANIA.
important depot of the Pennsylvania Coal Company. It contains also
extensive iron furnaces and rolling mills. The population has rapidly in-
North-ivestern mew at the Railroad-station, Pottsville.
The view is taken from near the passenger station at the western terminus of the Philadelphia and
Beading Railroad. The Clay Monument is seen on the elevation on the right, the coal cars on the left,
l*eyoud which are iron foundries. The river, canal and railroad pass at the base of the mountain, seen
in the extreme distance.
creased for a few years past : a large portion are Welsh, Irish and English.
Scranton was founded by Hon. George W. Scranton, member of congress
from this district, one of the largest iron masters in the country. A public
print, in the subjoined notice of him, gives in connection a history of the
town: "Born in Connecticut, on the shores of Long Island, he, while yet a
boy of seventeen, showed his indomitable energy of character by navigating
a vessel and cargo from New London to Washington, which he disposed of
in the latter city. The next year he emigrated to New Jersey, his entire re
sources consisting of a scanty education, an empty purse, and a determina
tion to succeed in the world. After being engaged for awhile as a lumberman
and trader, he commenced his career as an iron master at the famous Oxford
Furnace, the second establishment of the kind in the United States. In 1840
lie pushed his way across the Delaware into the mountainous county of Lack-
awanna, and began the manufacture of iron by anthracite coal, at a wild spot
called Sloeum Hollow, where there dwelt only two families, but where now
stands the flourishing town of Scranton, teeming with varied manufactures,
;;n<l supporting a thriving population of 12,000 souls. From the small fur
nace erected in 1840, and which was the third successful experiment in the
use of anthracite, the works at Scranton, inspired by the genius and energy
of its founder, have swelled to four large furnaces, capable of yielding 40,000
tuns of iron annually. Col. Scranton and his associates erected the second
rolling mill in Pennsylvania, which now turns out some 18,000 tuns of fin-
PENNSYLVANIA. 539
ished iron per yearp chiefly railroad iron. He conceived, and mainly contrib
uted to carry through, the connecting railroad link between the great coal
region of Pennsylvania, and the city of New York — a project pronounced
wild and visionary when first contemplated, but which has proved eminently
successful, giving New York a direct communication through Central New
Jersey and Northern Pennsylvania to the Erie Railroad, and thence to the
Great West."
Mauch Chunk (pronounced Mok-Chunk), the county-seat of Carbon county,
is upon the Lehigh, in one of its wildest passages, in the midst of the coal
region, 36 miles westerly from Easton. It is a place of active business in
coal and lumber. The bed of coal on Mauch Chunk Mountain, or Summit
Hill, is 50 feet in thickness; it is 9 miles west of the town, and from it
loaded cars descend to Mauch Chunk, on a railroad, by force of their own
gravity.
Carlondale is situated at the head of Lackawanna Valley, 30 miles N. E.
from Wilkesbarre, and 145 miles N. E. from Harrisburg. It was incorpor
ated as a city in 1851, and the population in 1853 was about 7,000. The
Lackawanna Valley, which is a continuation of the fertile Valley of Wyo
ming, contains extensive beds of coal, which, in the vicinity of Carbondale,
are about 20 feet in thickness. The coal is drawn up by several inclined
plains, to the hight of 850 feet. A railroad, 17 miles long, connects this
place with Honesdale.
POTTSVILLE, the principal town in Schuylkill county, and the great min
ing depot for the anthracite coal and iron regions of the Upper Schuyl
kill, is situated just above the gorge where the Schuylkill breaks through
Sharp Mountain, and at the mouth of Norwegian creek, 35 miles from Read
ing, 93 N. W. from Philadelphia, and 46 N. E. from Harrisburg. Potts-
ville was incorporated as a borough in 1828, including in its limits the once
separate villages of Mount Carbon, Morrisville, Greenwood, Salem, Bath and
Allenville. It contains 15 churches, in three of which the Welsh language, and
in two the German language, is used. Population about 15,000. This place
is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth, the picturesque wildness of the
scenery, and the immense trade in coal, of which it is the center.
In 1822 the "White Horse Tavern" was kept in this place, by John Pott,
who owned land in the vicinity, as
a sort of watering-place for stages
on the Sunbury road. About the
year 1825. the coal mines in this
section having come into notice,
the town was soon laid out — or
rather several towns — and houses
were rapidly constructed to accom
modate the crowds that came to
search for lots and lands. John
and Benjamin Pott had erected
their Greenwood furnace and forge,
and were making iron from ore ob-
tained from Blue Mountain. A
INTERIOR or A COAL MINK. daily stage was also established,
and a trip of fourteen hours was
thought something remarkable. The Schuylkill Valley, the Mill Creek and
540 PENNSYLVANIA.
Mount Carbon Railroads, and the Miner's Journal, were started the same
year. In 1831 the number of buildings had increased to 535.
As early as 1790, coal was known to abound in Schuylkill county; but,
being hard of ignition, it was for a time deemed useless. About the year
1800, William Morris, who owned a large tract of land in the neighborhood
of Port Carbon, procured a quantity of coal and took it to Philadelphia, but
was unable to bring it into notice. He returned discouraged, and sold his
lands to Mr. Pott. In 1812, Col. George Shoemaker procured coal from a
shaft sunk on a tract he recently purchased on the Norwegian, known as the
Centerville mines. "With this he loaded nine wagons, and proceeded to Phil
adelphia. His efforts to introduce it, proved unavailing, and he was declared
an impostor for attempting to impose stone on them for coal. He, however,
persisted in the undertaking, and at last succeeded in selling two loads for the
cost of transportation. The remaining seven were given away to persons who
promised to try the use of it. Messrs. Mellon and Bishop, at his earnest so
licitation, were induced to make trial of it in their rolling mill, in Delaware
county; and finding it to be equal to the recommendations given, they no
ticed its usefulness in the Philadelphia papers. From this period the use of
this valuable product has been more extended, until it has become one of the
chief staples of the state.
A fine statute of Henry Clay, on a lofty fluted column of iron, ornaments
the town ; on its base is the following inscription :
IN HONOR OP HENRY CLAY this monument is erected by the citizens of Schuylkill county,
and bequeathed to their children, a record of gratitude for his illustrious deeds, which
brought peace and prosperity and glory to this country. A tribute of admiration for the
virtues which adorned a useful life, and won for his imperishable name the affection and re
spect of mankind. Henry Clay was born in Hanover county, Virginia, April 12, 1777, died
in Washington, Dist. of Columbia, June 29, 1852. John Bannan, Esq., presented the
ground on which this monument stands. Corner stone laid July 26, 1852, work completed
July 4, 1855. Samuel Sillyman, Frank Hewson, Edward Yardley, building committee.
Master mason, Jacob Madara. Statue of iron, moulded and cast by Robert Wood; column
of the same material, by George B. Fisler and Brother. The statue and sections of the
column were raised to their respective places by Waters S. Chillson.
READING, the capital of Berks county, is situated on the left or east bank
of the Schuylkill, on the line of the Philadelphia, Reading and Pottsville
Railroad, 52 miles east from Harrisburg, and 52 from Philadelphia. This
well built and beautiful city is on ground rising gently from the Schuylkill
to the base of Penn's Mount, a lofty ridge directly east of the place, and
ranks third in the state for industrial pursuits : it is noted for its vast iron
and coal business, and has large machine shops, foundries, etc. As a trad
ing point, it is the most extensive in the anthracite regions. Population,
about 25,000.
The following sketch of the early history of Reading, was published in
the Ladies' Garland, in Feb., 1839.
As early as 1733, warrants \vere taken out by John and Samuel Finney, and 450
acres of land surveyed under their sanction, which are now entirely embraced
within the limits of Reading. Whether the inducements to this selection were
other than its general beauty and fertility, it is now difficult to say, though it is
asserted that when the proprietaries, John and Richard Penn, became aware
of its advantages, and proposed to repurchase it for the location of a town, the
Messrs. Finney long and firmly resisted all the efforts of negotiation. This pro
duced a momentary change in the design of the proprietaries, as they employed
Richard Hockley to survey and lay out the plan of a town on the nmrgin of the
Schuylkill, opposite its confluence with the Tulpehocken. This survey is still to be
found on record, though divested of any date or name by which the precise period
PENNSYLVANIA.
541
in which it was made can be ascertained. It is now only known as an appended
portion of Reading, under the designation of the " Hockley out-lots." The im
portance, as well as reality of the design now appears to have subdued the objec
tions of the Finneys to the sale of their claim, as they immediately relaxed in
their demands, and finally yielded them to the proprietaries, who at once caused
the "Hockley plot" to be abandoned, and in the fall of the year 1748, that of
Reading to be laid out The difficulty in obtaining water, even at great depths
Western view of Heading.
The view shows Reading, as seen from the elevated ridge rising immediately above the Schuylkill River,
which appears in front, with a canal on each side. The bridge over the Schuylkill is shown oil the right ;
Penn's Mount, east of the city, in the distance.
through the limestone, was the specious reason generally assigned for the sudden va
cation of the former site, as the new one was remarkable for the numerous and copi
ous springs existing within its limits. Thus, Thomas and Richard Penn, proprieta
ries and governors-in-chief of the province of Pennsylvania, became private owners
of the ground plot of Reading, the lots of which they carefully subjected in their
titles to an annual quit or ground rent. Singular as it may seem, this claim be
came almost forgotten, through neglect and the circumstances that resulted from
the change in the old order of things produced by the revolution ; indeed, when
recurred to at all, it was generally believed to have become forfeit to the state, by
the nature of that event. But a few years ago it was revived by the heirs, and its
collection attempted under the authority of the law ; but so excited were the pop
ulace, and adverse to the payment of its accumulated amount, that it was gener
ally, and in some cases violently, resisted, until the deliberations of a town meet
ing had suggested measures leading to a more direct, amicable, and permanent
compromise.
Like most of the primitive towns of the state, Reading is indebted for^ts name,
as is also the county in which it is situated, to the native soil of the Penns. The
streets intersect each other at right angles. Their original names were retained
to a very recent date (Aug. 6, 1833), and were characteristic of the loyalty of the
groprietary feeling, as well as family attachment and regard. King, Queen, Prince,
uke, Earl, and Lord streets, Penn and Callowhill, are as distinctly indicative of
filial regard. Hannah Callowhill, their mother, was the second Avife of William
Penn, and had issue, besides Thomas and Richard, of John, Margaret and Dennis,
whence also had originated the names of Thomas, Margaret, and Richard streets:
Hamilton street, from James Hamilton, Esq., who was deputy governor of the
542 PENNSYLVANIA.
province at that period. The names now substituted, " as more compatible with
the republican simplicity of our present form of government," are similar to those
of Philadelphia, as the streets running north and south commence at Water street,
on the Schuylkill, and extend to Twelfth street, while those running east and west
are called Penn, Franklin, Washington, Chesnut, and Walnut streets. In 1751,
Reading contained 130 dwelling houses, besides stables and other buildings, 106
families, and 378 inhabitants, though about two years before it had not above one
house in it. The original population was principally Germans, who emigrated
from Wirtemburg and the Palatinate though the administration of public affairs
was chiefly in the hands of the Friends. The former, by their preponderance of
numbers, gave the decided character in habits and language to the place, as the
German was almost exclusively used in the ordinary transactions of life and busi
ness, and is yet retained to a very great extent.
During the revolution, Reading was a favorite place of resort for citizens
of Philadelphia from " war's alarm." Many prisoners, during the war,
were sent here. A body of Hessians, captured at Trenton, in 1776, to
gether with many British, and the principal Scotch royalists captured in
North Carolina, were brought to Reading and stationed in a grove on the
bank of the Schuylkill, in the south part of the place. They removed the
same year to the hill east of the town, called the " Hessian Camp," and
built their huts in regular camp order. The following historical items are
from a pamphlet published by Maj. Stahle, in 1841 :
The first house of worship in Heading was a log house, built by the Friends, on
their burying ground, in 1751. In 1766, it was pulled down, and in its place the
present one-story log house was built in Washington street. Their old log school
house, near it, was built in 1787. The German Reformed Church was organized
soon after the settlement of Reading, but the exact date, as well as that of the
erection of their first edifice, has riot been ascertained. The present building was
erected in 1832, and the previous one in 1762. The steeple is 151 feet high. " The
German Lutheran Church was organized shortly after the German Reformed.
The congregation long occupied a log building where their church now stands.
The present church, the largest in Reading, was erected in 1791. The splendid
steeple, 201 feet high, was erected in 1833. In this church, and in the German
Reformed, divine service is performed in the German language. The ancient stone
school house near the church, was erected in 1765. One of the bells was cast by
Henry Kippele, of Philadelphia, in 1755. On one of the gravestones in the yard,
with a German inscription, is the date of 1703. The old 30 hour clock in the
town, the first in the place, was imported from London about the year 1755. The
Presbyterian Church was erected in 1824. The Catholic Chapel in 1791. The
Episcopal Church in 1826. The Methodist in 1839. The Baptists formerly occu
pied a site near the river, but the location was disliked, and in 1837, a new brick
church was erected by Rev. Enoch M. Barker, the pastor at that time, which he
afterward conveyed to the society. The Universalist Church was erected in 1830.
Besides the above, there are three African churches. The magnificent new court
house was completed in 1840, after the designs of Thomas U. Walter, architect,
of Philadelphia. The front is an Ionic portico, with six columns of red sand
stone. The edifice is surmounted by a very high cupola, presenting a conspicuous
and beautiful object to one approaching the borough. The old courthouse, which
formerlytetood in the center of the public square, at the intersection of the two
principal streets, obstructing the beautiful and extended view through those streets
now enjoyed, was built in 1762, and is said to have been "remarkable for
nothing but its ugliness." The office of discount and deposit was established in
1808; the Farmers' Bank was incorporated in 1814; the Berks Co. Bank in 1826.
The postoffice was established at Reading in 1793; Gotleib Yungmann first
postmaster. Previous to this, letters were conveyed from Reading to Philadelphia
and other important places by private individuals, upon their own account. In
1789, a two-horse coach was started by Mr. Martin Hausman, to run weekly for
the conveyance of passengers and letters between Reading and Philadelphia. It
PENNSYLVANIA. 543
made its passage through in two days. Fare $2 — letter carriage, 3d. In 1790,
the establishment was transferred to Alexander Eisenbeis. Mr. Eisenbeis sold out
in 1791 to William Coleman, who soon after started a coach also to Harrisburg,
which performed its trips in the same time, and at the same rates of fare and post
age as that to Philadelphia. At the close of the year 1800, the mail was carried
from here to Sunbury once a week, on horseback; to Lancaster and Easton once a
week, in a private two-horse carriage.
Norristown, the capital of Montgomery county, is a flourishing place on
the left bank of the Schuylkill, 17 miles by railroad N. W. from Philadel
phia, and 91 E. from Harrisburg. The town is well built, having a large
number of superior public buildings, large cotton factories, etc., which pre
sent a fine appearance when viewed from the Philadelphia and Reading Rail
road, on the opposite bank of the river. The place contains several large
and flourishing boarding schools. The darn across the Schuylkill creates
here an immense water power, which is improved by mills and factories.
Population, about 8,000. Norristown was laid out in 1784. It then be
longed to some academy in Philadelphia, which had purchased it from John
Bull, being the farm which he improved during the revolution. Mr. Bull,
notwithstanding his name, was a strong whig, and on this account his barn
was burnt by the British. Mr. B. purchased this farm from Isaac Norris,
from whom the town received its name. About half a mile below the town,
on the opposite side, stood the old Swedes' Ford, famous in the annals of the
revolution. It is stated in Day's Penn. that the first public canal in the
United States was excavated on the river bank in this place. This was the
old Schuylkill and Delaware Canal, intended to connect the two rivers, and
also to supply water to the citizens of Philadelphia : the company was in
corporated in 1792.
Valley Forge, the head quarters of the American army in the winter of
1777-78, during the occupation of Philadelphia by the British, and cele-
t _ _ brated as a scene of suffering and
privation of the patriots, is on the
west side of Schuylkill, six miles
above Norristown, 22 north-west of
Philadelphia, and about 45 south
west of Trenton. It is in a deep,
rugged hollow, at the mouth of Val
ley creek, at a point where anciently
stood a forge — hence its name, Val
ley Forge. Upon the mountainous
flanks of this valley, Washington
established his army for the winter
WASH™*,,,'. H.AD O.UAKTEBS AT VAL«T FOHGK. ^^ . ^ ft ^ from here that,
at the darkest era of the revolution, he marched and gained the victories at
Trenton and Princeton, which revived the drooping spirits of his country
men. Thatcher, in his Military Journal, says :
My friend, Maj. Minnis, from head quarters at Valley Forge, has detailed to me
the particular circumstances of the distress and privations which our army suf
fered while in winter quarters at that place, the last winter. In the month of De
cember, the troops were employed in erecting log huts for winter quarters, when
about one half of the men were destitute of small clothes, shoes and stockingn ;
some thousands were without blankets, and were obliged to warm themselves over
fires all night, after the fatigues of the day, instead of reposing in comfortable
lodgings. At one time, nearly three thousand men were returned unfit for duty,
544 PENNSYLVANIA.
from the want of clothing, and it was not uncommon to track the march of the
men over ice and the frozen ground by the blood from their naked feet. Several
times during the winter they experienced little less than a famine in camp; and
more than once our general officers were alarmed by the fear of a total dissolution
of the army from the want of provisions. For two or three weeks in succession, the
men were on half allowance, and for four or five days without bread, and again as
many without beef or pork. It was with great difficulty that men enough could
be found in a condition fit to discharge the military camp duties from day to day,
and for this purpose, those who were naked borrowed from those who had clothes.
It can not be deemed strange that sickness and mortality were the consequence
of such privations, in the midst of an inclement season. Under these unexam
pled sufferings, the soldiers exercised a degree of patience and fortitude which re
flects on them the highest honor, and which ought ever to entitle them to the
gratitude of their country. The army indeed was not without consolation, for his
excellency, the commander-in-chief, whom every soldier venerates and loves, man
ifested a fatherly concern and fellow feeling for their sufferings, and made every
exertion in his power to remedy the evil, and to administer the much desired re
lief. Being authorized by congress, he reluctantly resorted to the unpopular ex
pedient of taking provisions from the inhabitants by force, and thus procured a
small supply for immediate necessity. It was on this occasion that a foreign offi
cer of distinction said to a friend of mine, that he despaired of our independence,
for while walking with Gen. Washington, along the soldiers' huts, he heard from
many voices echoing through the open crevices between the logs, " no pay, no
clothes, no provisions, no rum" and when a miserable being was seen flitting from
one hut to another, his nakedness was only covered by a dirty blanket. This was
the unhappy condition of that army on whom Gen. Washington had to rely for the
defense of everything held most dear by Americans, and this, too, while situated
within sixteen miles of a powerful adversary, with a greatly superior army of vet
erans, watching with a vigilant eye for an opportunity to effect its destruction.
York, the capital of York county, is a rich, thriving place in the midst of
a fertile country, 28 miles S. S. E. from Harrisburg, 92 W. from Philadel
phia, and 48 N. from Baltimore. Population, about 9,000. It was laid out
in 1741, and was made a borough in 1787. During the revolutionary pe
riod, no part of Pennsylvania displayed more patriotic zeal in the contest
than the county of York. Military companies were formed in York, while
the people of the neighboring counties slept. The first company from Penn
sylvania who marched to the field of war, was a company of riflemen from
the town of York ; they left this place on the first of July, 1775. Fairs
were held here in ancient times. Before the abolition of slavery in Penn
sylvania, many slaves were owned here. In 1803, the negroes in and near
York, conspired to burn the town ; fires broke out every day for three weeks.
At length a negro girl was discovered in the act of throwing a pan of coals
on the hay in her master's barn ; on being arrested, she confessed that she
had done it in concert with others, to fire the whole town "at 12 o'clock ; "
but in her stupidity she had mistaken 12 o'clock at noon for the same hour
at midnight.
Carlisle, the county seat of Cumberland county, is 117 miles from Phila
delphia, and 17 W. of Harrisburg, with which it is connected by railroad.
It is an ancient, handsome, and flourishing place, containing upward of
5,000 inhabitants. The town is well built, the streets are wide, and the
public buildings of a superior order. Dickinson College of this place, is one
of the oldest and most flourishing in the state. It was founded in 1783, and
is now under the direction of the Methodists. The United States Barracks,
half a mile from the village, were built in 1777, chiefly by the labor of the
Hessians captured at Trenton. A school of cavalry practice has been re
cently established here. The barracks will garrison 2,000 men. During
PENNSYLVANIA. 545
the revolutionary war, Maj. Andre passed some time here as a prisoner of
war. In 1794, Gen. Washington had his head quarters at Carlisle during
the Whisky Insurrection.
During the period of the French and Indian wars the following interesting
incident occurred in Carlisle :
"In 1764, Col. Boquet conquered the Indians, and compelled them to sue for
peace. One of the conditions upon which peace was granted, was that the In
dians should deliver up all the women and children whom they had taken into cap
tivity. Among them were many who had been seized when very young, and had
grown up to womanhood in the wigwam of the savage. They had contracted the
wild habits of their captors, learned their language, and forgotten their own, and
were bound to them by ties of the strongest affection. Many a mother found a
lost child ; many were unable to designate their children. The separation be
tween the Indians and their prisoners was heartrending. The hardy son of the
forest shed torrents of tears, and every captive left the wigwam with reluctance.
Some afterward made their escape, and returned to the Indians. Many had inter
married with the natives, but all were left to freedom of choice, and those who re
mained unmarried had been treated with delicacy. One female who had been
captured at the age of fourteen, had become the wife of an Indian, and the mother
of several children. When informed that she was about to be delivered to her
parents, her grief could not be alleviated. " Can I," said she, " enter my parents'
dwelling ? Will they be kind to my children ? Will my old companions associate
with the wife of an Indian chief? And my husband, who has been so kind — I will
not desert him ! " That night she fled from the camp to her husband and chil
dren.
A great number of the restored prisoners were brought to Carlisle, and Col.
Boquet advertised for those who had lost children to come here and look for
them. Among those that came was an old woman, whose child, a little girl, had
been taken from her several years before ; but she was unable to designate her
daughter or converse with the released captives. With breaking heart, the old
woman lamented to Col. Boquet her hapless lot, telling him how she used many
years ago to sing to her little daughter a hymn of which the child was so fond.
She was requested by the colonel to sing it then, which she did in these words:
" Alone, yet not alone am I,
Though in this solitude so drear;
I feel my Saviour always nigh,
He comes my every hour to cheer."
And the long-lost daughter rushed into the arms of her mother.
PITTSBURG, the capital of Allegheny county) the great manufacturing city
of the West, is situated on a triangular point at the junction of the Alle
gheny and Monongahela Rivers. It is 300 miles W. from Philadelphia,
1,100 by land, and 2,029 by water from New Orleans. The Allegheny
comes down from the N. E., and sweeping suddenly round to the N. W., re
ceives the current of the Monongahela from the S. — their combined waters
flowing on to the Mississippi under the name of the Ohio, or Beautiful River.
The cities of Pittsburg, and Allegheny, and Manchester, South Pittsburg,
Birmingham, East Birmingham, and Temperanceville, localities in the im
mediate vicinity, may in many respects be considered as one place, and have
in the aggregate a population of 150,000. Of this number Pittsburg proper
contains about 90,000, and Allegheny City 40,000. The Theological Semi
nary of the Associate Reformed Church, founded at Pittsburg in 1828, and
the Western Theological Seminary in Allegheny City, founded in 1828, are
flourishing institutions in these places. There are about 100 churches of
all kinds in Pittsburg and its vicinity. The manufactures of Pittsburg, em
bracing its localities, are immense, and employ upward of 400 steam engines,
546
PENNSYLVANIA.
and 15,000 hands. Among them are rolling mills, furnaces, foundries,
machine-shops, chemical works, glass factories, breweries, distilleries, planing
Western view of Pittsburg, from Allegheny Nights.
The engraving shows parts of the cities of Pittsbtirg and Allegheny, with their connection by bridges
*»ver the Allegheny River, as they appear from the hights near the river on the Allegheny side. The Court
House, Catholic Cathedral, the Episcopal and other churches in Pittsburg are on the right. Part of Allo -
gheny City is in front and on the left.
mills, etc. In all there are upward of 1,000 establishments. From the
character of its products it has been called the " Birmingham of America"
Situation of Pittsburg and Allegheny.
The Monongahela River Bridge and principal Steamboat Landing appear in front. Pittsburg proper is on
the tongue of land between the rivers. The City of Allegheny, connected with Pittsburg by four bridges
over the Allegheny River, is in the distance.
and it is probable that this place manufactures a greater amount of heavy
iron and steel goods than any other on the continent. Its commerce is co-
PENNSYLVANIA. 547
extensive with the settled West, which is open to it by river, canal and rail
road for thousands of miles.
Pittsburg occupies the site of the French Fort Du Quesne, which the
French held possession of from 1754 to 1758, and whence, by instigating the
Indians to hostilities, brought so much terror to the frontier settlements.
About 10 miles from this place, on the north side of the Monongahela, while
marching to attack this fort, Gen. Braddock, in 1755, fell into an ambuscade
of French and Indians. Braddock was killed and his army defeated. Here
Washington displayed his military skill, by conducting in a masterly man
ner, the retreat of the shattered forces. In Nov., 1758, an expedition under
Gen. Forbes was so successful in striking terror into the enemy, that they
burnt the fort and abandoned the place, though not without first routing an
advanced detachment of 1,000 men under Maj. Grant.* The fort was repaired
and received the name of Fort Pitt, in honor of Pitt, then at the head of the
British ministry.
Until after the close of the Revolutionary war, Pittsburg continued to be
only a small place. In 1775, there were but 25 or 30 dwellings in the lim
its of the city. But in 1784, the ground which belonged to Penn's manor,
and was the property of the family, was laid out into town lots, and sold
rapidly. Two years later, the Pennsylvania Gazette was published here, in
which it was stated that there were about 100 houses in the village. The
county of Allegheny was constituted in 1788, and in 1791, Pittsburg became
the county town. The earliest authentic account of the population, is in the
Pittsburg Gazette, Jan. 9, 1796; when, by a census then taken, it appeared
that it amounted to 1,395. It was during this year that Louis Philippe,
afterward the king of France, visited this place, and spent considerable time.
Pittsburg was incorporated as a borough in 1804, and chartered as a city in
1816. On the 10th of April, 1845, a great fire consumed a large part of
Pittsburg, causing a destruction of property to the amount of about $9,000,-
000. Notwithstanding this calamity, the city has continued to increase
rapidly in wealth and population.
* The details of this event are from Howe's " Great West." " The advanced guard, un
der Col. Boquet, having reached Loyal Hanna, in what is now Westmoreland county, that
officer dispatched Maj. Grant to reconnoiter, with 800 Highland Scotch, and 200 Virginians,
under Maj. Andrew Lewis, who subsequently commanded at the sanguinary battle of Point
Pleasant.
As they drew near the fort undiscovered, Grant thought he could surprise the garrison,
and thus disappoint his general of the honor of the conquest. Lewis, in vain, remonstrated
against the folly of the attempt ; but Grant, desirous of monopolizing all the honor, ordered
Lewis, with his provincials, to remain behind with the baggage. Early in the morning,
Grant, with his Scotch Highlanders, advanced to the attack by beating drums upon Grant's
Hill, as it was afterward called, within the site of Pittsburg. This incautious bravado
aroused the Indians, who, to the number of 1,500, were lying on the opposite side of the
river, and soon Grant was surrounded by an overwhelming number, when the work of death
went on rapidly, and in a manner quite novel to the Scotch Highlanders, who, in all their Euro
pean wars, had never before seen men's heads skinned. Maj. Lewis soon perceiving, by the re
treating fire, th'at Grant was overmatched, came to the rescue with his provincials, and fall
ing on the rear of the Indians, made way for Grant and some of his men to retreat ; but hi?
own party was overwhelmed by numbers. This action proved disastrous to the English,
more than one third of the whole force being killed. Grant and Lewis were both taken
prisoners, and the remnant of the detachment was saved mainly through the bravery and
skill of Capt. Bullet, of the Virginia provincials, the only officer who escaped unhurt.
The Indians would have killed Lewis had it not been for the interference of a French
officer. When he was advancing to the relief of Grant, he met a Scotch Highlander, under
speedy flight; and inquiring of ^ him how the battle went, he replied, that they were 'a'
beaten, and he had seen Donald M' Donald, up to his hunkers in mud, and a' the skeen aff his
head.' "
35
548
PENNSYLVANIA.
The following are the details of Gren. Braddock's defeat, July 9, 1755 :
Maj. Gen. Edward Braddock arrived in this country early in the year 1755, with two
regiments of veteran English troops. He was joined, at Fort Cumberland, by a large num
ber of provincial troops to aid in the contemplated reduction of Fort Du Quesne. Divid
ing his force, he pushed onward, with about 1,200 chosen men, through dark forests, and
over pathless mountains.
Braddock's Battle Field,
Col. George Washington, who was a volunteer aid of Braddock, but had been left be
hind on account of illness, overtook the general on the evening of the 8th of July, at the
mouth of the Youghiogheny River, fifteen miles from Du Quesne, the day before the
battle.
The officers and soldiers were now in the highest spirits, and firm in the conviction that
they should, within a few hours, victoriously enter within the walls of Fort Du Quesne.
Early on the morning of the 9th, the army passed through the river a little below the
mouth of the Youghiogheny, and proceeded in perfect order along the southern margin of
the Monongahela. Washington was often heard to say, during his lifetime, that the most
beautiful spectacle he had ever beheld, was the display of the British troops on this event
ful morning. Every man was neatly dressed in full uniform, the soldiers were arranged
in columns, and marched in exact order, the sun gleamed from their burnished arms ; the
river flowed tranquilly on their right, and the deep forest overshadowed them with solemn
grandeur on their left. Officers and men were equally inspirited with cheering hopes, and
confident anticipation.
In this manner they marched forward until about noon, when they arrived at the second
crossing place, 10 miles from Fort Du Quesne. They halted but a little time, and then
began to ford the river, and regain its northern bank. As soon as they had crossed, they
came upon a level plain, elevated only a few feet above the surface of the river, and ex
tending northward nearly half a mile from its margin. They commenced a gradual ascent
on an angle of about 3°, which terminated in hills of a considerable hight at no great dis
tance beyond. The road, from the fording place to Fort Du Quesne, led across the plain
and up this ascent, and thence proceeded through an uneven country, at that time covered
with wood.
By the order of march, 300 men under Col. Gage made the advanced party, which was
immediately followed by another of 200. Next came the general with the columns of ar
tillery, the main body of the army and the baggage. About one o'clock the whole had
crossed the river, and almost at this moment, a sharp firing was heard upon the advanced
parties, who were now ascending the hill, and had proceeded about 100 yards from the ter
mination of the plain. A heavy discharge of musketry was poured in upon their front,
which was the first intelligence they had of an enemy ; and this was suddenly followed by
another upon their right flank. They were filled with the greatest consternation, as no enemy
was in sight, and the firing seemed to come from an invisible foe. They tired in turn,
however, but quite at random, and obviously without effect.
The general hastened forward to the relief of the advanced parties ; but before he could
reach the spot which they occupied, they gave way and fell back upon the artillery and the
other columns of the army, causing extreme confusion, and striking the whole mass with
PENNSYLVANIA. 549
such a panic, that no order could afterward be restored. The general and the officers be
haved with the utmost courage, and used every effort to rally the men, and bring them to
order, but all in vain. In this state they continued nearly three hours, huddling together
in confused bodies, firing irregularly, shooting down their own officers and men, and doing
no perceptible harm to the enemy. The Virginia provincials were the only troops who
seemed to retain their senses, and they behaved with a bravery and resolution worthy of a
better fate. They adopted the Indian mode, and fought, each man for himself, behind a
tree. This was prohibited by the general, who endeavored to form his men into platoons
and columns, as if they had been maneuvering on the plains of Flanders. Meantime, the
French and Indians, concealed in the ravines and behind trees, kept up a deadly and i:r;
ceasing discharge of rifles, singling out their objects, taking deliberate aim, and producint:
a carnage almost unparalleled in the annals of modern warfare. More than half the whoio
army, which had crossed the river in so proud an array only three hours before, were
either killed or wounded. The general himself received a mortal wound, and many of his
best officers fell by his side.
During the whole of the action, Col. George Washington,* then 23 years of age, be
haved with the greatest courage and resolution. The other two aids-de-camp were
wounded, and on him alone devolved the duty of distributing the orders of the general.
He rode in every direction, and was a conspicuous object for the enemy's sharp shooteix.
He had four bullets through his coat, and had two horses shot under him, and yet escaped
unhurt. So bloody a contest has rarely been witnessed. Out of the 1200 men, 714 were
either killed or wounded ; of 86 officers, more than two thirds were among the killed or
wounded. Braddock was mortally wounded by a provincial named Fausett. The enemy
lost only about 40 men. They fought in deep ravines, and the balls of the English passed
over their heads.
The remnant of Braddock's army, panic stricken, fled in greac disorder to Fort Cumber
land. The enemy did not pursue them. Satiated with carnage and plunder, the Indians
could not be tempted from the battle-field.
The army of Braddock had been carefully watched, by some Indian spies, from the time
they left Fort Cumberland. There was no force in Fort Du Quesne that could cope with
the English, and the French commandant had expressed the necessity of either retreat or
surrender. By accident, 400 or 500 Indians happened to be at the fort of the French gar
rison. One officer of inferior rank, Capt. Beaujeau, strenuously urged that, for the honor
of the French arms, some resistance should be made. Beaujeau consulted the Indians, who
volunteered to the number of about 400. With much difficulty, the young hero obtained
from his commander permission to lead out to a certain limit, such French soldiers as chose
to join in the desperate enterprise. Of the number, only about 30 volunteered, and with
these 430 men, the gallant Frenchman marched out to attack more than threefold their
number.
In the meantime, Braddock rejected every remonstrance from Washington and other
colonial officers with insult, and advanced into the snare just as far as the enemy desired,
when destruction to the greater part of the army was almost the certain result.
When the victory was reported to the commandant at Fort Du Quesne, his transports
were unbounded. He received Beaujeau with open arms, loaded him with the most ex
travagant honors, and, in a few days, sent to report the victory to the governor of Canada.
But behold ! when the dispatches were opened, they consisted of criminal charges against
Beaujeau in his office of paymaster, and other charges equally culpable. Under these ac
cusations, this injured man was tried, broke, and ruined. So matters rested until, in the
revolutionary war, the subject of Braddock's defeat happened to come into conversation
between Washington and LaFayette, when the real facts were stated to the latter. He
heard them with unqualified astonishment ; but with his powerful sense of justice, deter
mining to do all in his ability to repair what he considered a national act of cruelty and in
justice, he took and preserved careful notes, and on his return to Europe, had inquiries
made for Beaujeau. He was found in a state of poverty and wretchedness, broken down
by advancing years and unmerited obloquy. The affair was brought before the govern
ment of France, and as the real events were made manifest, the officer was restored to his
rank and honors.
* When Washington went to the Ohio, in 1770, to explore the wild lands near the mouth
of the Kanawha, he met an aged Indian chief, who told him, through an interpreter, that,
at the battle of Braddock's field, he had singled him out as a conspicuous object, fired his
rifle at him many times, and directed his young men to do the same, but none of their balls
took effect. He was then persuaded that the young hero was under the especial guardian
ship of the Great Spirit, and ceased firing at him. He had now come a great way to pay
homage to the man who was the particular favorite of Heaven, and who could never die in
battle.
550
PENNSYLVANIA.
SHADDOCK'S GRAVI
After Braddock fell, the retreating soldiers carried their wounded general
for four days, when he expired. He was buried in the center of the road
which his army had cut. About
40 or 50 years since, some labor
ers at work, disinterred some
bones which, from the military
trappings, were at once known by
the old settlers, to be those of
Braddock. One and another took
several of the most prominent
bones, and the remainder were re-
interred under a tree a few rods
distant. In the annexed view,
the two figures mark the spot
where the bones were disinterred,
and the tall tree on the right, the
place where a part were re-buried.
A plain shingle, marked " Braddock 's Grave," is nailed to the tree. Day,
in his History of Pennsylvania, says :
There had long existed a tradition in this region, that Braddock was killed by one of his
own men, and more recent developments leave little or no doubt of the fact. Hon. An
drew Stewart, of Uniontown, says he knew, and often conversed with, Tom Fausett, who
did not hesitate to avow, in the presence of his friends, that he shot Gen. Braddock. Fau
sett was a man of gigantic frame, of uncivilized half-savage propensities, and spent most
of his life among the mountains as a hermit, living on the *game which he killed. He
would occasionally come into town and get drunk. Some times he would repel inquiries
into the affair of Braddock's death, by putting his fingers to his lips, and uttering a sort
of buzzing sound ; at others he would burst into tears, and appear greatly agitated by con
flicting passions.
In spite of Braddock's silly order that the troops should not protect themselves behind
the trees, Joseph Fausett had taken such position, when Braddock rode up in a passion,
and struck him down with his sword. Tom Fausett, who was but a short distance from
his brother, saw the whole transaction, and immediately drew up his rifle and shot Brad-
dock through the lungs, partly in revenge for the outrage on his brother, and partly, as he
always alleged, to get the general out of the way, and thus save the remainder of the gal
lant band who had been sacrificed to his obstinacy and want of experience in frontier war
fare.
Altoona is on the Pennsylvania Railroad, 117 miles E. of Pittsburg, and
236 W. of Philadelphia, at the eastern base of the Allegheny Mountains. la
1850, it had but one dwelling, a log house : it is now the great center of the
business of the Pennsylvania Railroad, with many fine residences, seven
handsome churches, and about 6,000 inhabitants. Twelve miles W. from
here is "the great tunnel" on the railroad, 3,670 feet long, and 210 feet
below the top of the mountain.
Erie, a port of entry, and capital of Erie county, is situated on Lake Erie,
120 miles N. from Pittsburg, 90 S. W. from Buffalo, 100 from Cleveland, and
130 by turnpike from Harrisburg. It is situated on a bluff opposite Presque
Isle, formerly a peninsula. The harbor, which is one of the largest and best
on the lake, is three and a half miles long, and over one mile in width, and
from 9 to 25 feet deep. The island is four miles long and one wide. Erie
is connected with the east and west by railroad, and with the Ohio River by
the Erie Extension Canal, and is a place of extensive trade. Population
about 8,000.
The town of Erie was laid out in 1795, by Gen. Irvine and Andrew Elli-
cott, in conformity to an act passed in that year. Reservations were made of
PENNSYLVANIA. 551
lots for the use of the United States, for forts, magazines, etc. Col. John
Reed was the first white settler in the place. Large sums have been ex
pended in improving and fortifying the harbor, and in erecting a lighthouse.
The first section of the town was incorporated as a borough in 1805. Gen.
Wayne died at the garrison here in 1796, in a small log cabin, and was
buried at his own request at the foot of the flag staff. In 1809, his remains
were removed to Delaware county by his son. It was here that Com. Perry,
in 1813, in the war with Great Britain, fitted out his vessels with which he
gained the important victory over the British fleet.
The Whisky Insurrection. — In the year 1791, congress enacted laws laying
duties upon spirits distilled in the United States, and upon stills. From the very
commencement of the operation of these laws, combinations were formed in the
four western counties of Pennsylvania, to defeat them, and violences were re
peatedly committed. The western insurgents followed, as they supposed, the ex
ample of the American revolution in opposing an excise law. Distilling was then
considered a reputable business, and was very extensively carried on in western
Pennsylvania, Rye, their principal crop, was too bulky to transport across the
mountains ; therefore, having no market for it, they were obliged to convert it into
the more easily transported article of whisky, which was their principal item to
pay for their salt, sugar, and iron. They had cultivated their lands for years, at
the peril of their lives, with little or no protection from the federal government,
and when at last they were enabled to raise a little surplus grain, to meet their
expenses of living, they were met by a law which forbade them doing as they
pleased with the fruits of their labors. In effect, it was as bad as a government
tax on wheat would be at the present day to the western farmer.
The indignation of the people at this law was universal. Public meetings were
held, composed of the most influential men, denouncing the law and resolutions
passed recommending the public to treat all persons holding the office of collector
of the tax with contempt. The tax collectors were subjected to all sorts of indig
nities from the populace. In September, 1791, Robert Johnson, the collector for
Allegheny and Washington, was waylaid, dragged from his horse, his hair cut off,
and he was tarred and feathered. The officer sent to serve the process against
these offenders was treated in a similar manner. The next month a man named
Wilson was torn from his bed by persons in disguise, carried several miles to a
blacksmith's shop, stripped naked, burnt with a red-hot iron, and covered with a
coat of tar and feathers. Not long after, one Rosebury was tarred and feathered
for speaking in favor of the law.
Congress, in May, 1792, passed material modifications to the law, but all to no
purpose. The excitement increased; not only were collectors visited with vio
lence, but those distillers who complied with the law. The adversaries of the law
went so far as to burn the barns and tear down the houses of the collectors and
others, and threaten with death those who should disclose their names. So strong
was the public feeling that one word in favor of the law was enough to ruin any
man. It was considered as a badge of toryism. No clergyman, physician, lawyer,
nor merchant, was sustained by the people unless his sentiments were in opposi
tion.
On the 16th of July, 1794, a band of about forty individuals attacked the man
sion of Gen. John Neville, chief inspector of western Pennsylvania, situated seven
miles S. W. of Pittsburg. It was defended by Maj. Kirkpatrick, with eleven men
from the garrison at Pittsburg. The attack was previously made with small arms,
and fire having been set to the house the garrison were obliged to surrender. One
of the insurgents was killed.
Gen. Neville was one of the most zealous patriots of the revolution, and a man
of great wealth and unbounded benevolence. During the '' starving years " of the
early settlements in that region, he had largely contributed to the necessities of
the suffering pioneers ; and, when necessary, he had divided his last loaf with the
needy. In accepting the office he was governed by a sense of public duty. It was
done at the hazard of his life, and the loss of all his property. All his revolu
552 PENNSYLVANIA.
tionary services, his great popularity were insufficient to shield him from public
indignation, and his hospitable mansion was consumed to ashes in the presence of
hundreds who had shared his bounty or had enjoyed his benevolence.
Insubordination everywhere prevailed; all law was disregarded; the peaceable
members of society became obnoxious to the mob and their adherents ; the mail
was boldly robbed, and disclosed letters which added new victims to the lawless
rage ; the United States marshal was compelled to escape for his life down the Ohio.
At length, so dangerous had become the state of affairs, that President Wash
ington, on the 7th August, 1794, issued a proclamation, commanding the insur
gents to disperse, and warning all persons against abetting, aiding or comforting
the perpetrators of these treasonable acts, and requiring all officers and other
citizens, according to their respective duties and the laws of the land, to exert
their utmost endeavors to prevent and suppress such dangerous proceedings.
Washington having ordered out 15,000 militia from the adjoining states, pro
ceeded, in October, to Bedford, whence he gave out instructions to Gen. Lee, of
Virginia, who marched his troops to Pittsburg. On their approach the insur
gents were awed into submission to the law. In the spring succeeding, a part of
the military, who had remained at Pittsburg through the winter, under Gen. Mor
gan, returned : order had been fully restored, and the law acquiesced in. Some
of the insurgents were imprisoned for nearly a year.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, ETC.
William Penn, the distinguished founder and legislator of Pennsylvania,
was born in London, in 1644. He was a member of the Society of Friends,
or Quakers, as they are usually called, and became a preacher of that order
at the age of twenty -four. The territory of Pennsylvania was granted to
him by Charles II of England, in consideration of the services rendered the
crown by Admiral Penn, his father. William Penri paid the Indians for all
the lands which he obtained. The treaty which he made with them was
faithfully observed. The respect and affection which the natives had for
Penn and his associates was such, that it is said that in all their wars with
the whites they never killed a Quaker, knowing him to be such. Penn died
in England in 1718.
Robert Morris, a signer of the declaration of independence, and the finan
cier of the revolution, was born in Lancashire, England, in Jan. 1733. His
farther was a Liverpool merchant,
connected with the American trade,
~ " and who emigrated to America when
? t^^^~f '</ h^ son Robert was thirteen years of
age. In 1754, Mr. Morris formed
a mercantile partnership with
Thomas Willing, and they soon became the most extensive importers in
Philadelphia. After the bloodshed at Lexington, Mr. Morris took a very-
active part in the American cause. He was elected to the general congress,
where his business talents were appreciated, and he was placed upon the
"secret committee" whose duty it was to manage the financial affairs of con
gress, which often at that time required great secrecy. When during the
retreat through New Jersey the American army under Washington had
dwindled down to a handful of ragged and half famished soldiers, Mr. Morris
advanced on his own individual responsibility, ten thousand dollars, which
gave Washington the means of recrossing the Delaware with that gallant
band which won the victory at Trenton. In 1781, Mr. Morris, with others,
organized a bank in Philadelphia, which was of immense value in sustain
ing the public credit. By his expenditures for the public good, he became
PENNSYLVANIA. 553
in his old age reduced to poverty, and was thrust into prison for debt.
There he passed the last years of his life, and finally died in jail May 8,
1806.
Conrad Weiser, the distinguished Indian agent, connected with the early history
of Pennsylvania, was born in 1696, in Germany, and emigrated while a child, with hfs
father, to the vicinity of Schoharie, New York. At the age of 18 he was adopted
by the Mohawk Indians. In 1729 he moved with his family and settled at Tulpe-
hocken, Berks county. From 1731 until his death, in 1760, he held the office of
Chief Indian Agent and Interpreter to the province, and so wisely and honestly
conducted the business as to win the regard of all parties. The Indians loved him
as a father, and for a long while after his decease, made annual visits to his grave.
His journals of his business expeditions have been published at the expense of the
state, among the Pennsylvania archives.
Benjamin Rush, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born at Bris
tol, or 'vicinity, December 24, 1745. He was educated in Princeton College, N. J.,
took his degree at the
age of sixteen years, and
selected the practice of
medicine as a profession.
He espoused the Ameri
can cause, and was elect
ed a delegate to fill the
place of one of the Penn
sylvania delegates who had refused to vote for independence. Dr. Rush signed the
declaration on the 4th of August following the 4th of July, 1776. He was emi
nent as a physician, a philanthropist and a Christian. He remained at his post at
the time of the yellow-fever in Philadelphia, in 1793, when most of the other physi
cians fled from the city. Dr. R. was also distinguished as a writer, and was a
prominent member of various literary and philosophical societies. He died April
19, 1813, deeply lamented.
George Clymer, a signer of the declaration of Independence, was born in Phila
delphia, in 1739, and was bred to the business of a merchant. He was strongly in
favor of American free-
— dom, and accepted the
// /^T^ ^\ command of a volunteer
^jC^^fstssm /^X__4 _ corps belonging to Gen.
""""N Cadwallader's brigade, In
£' ( (/O ^ ^^^^<^^^L__ S 1776, after two of the
Pennsylvania delegation
declined voting for the
declaration of independence, and withdrew from their seats, Mr. Clymer and Dr.
Rush were appointed to succeed them; and they, without hesitation affixed their
names to that instrument. In 1780, Mr. Clymer was a large subscriber and one
of the first directors of a bank in Philadelphia, designed for the public good. He
was one of the projectors of the Academy of Arts and Sciences, and was its first
president, which office he held at his decease, Jan. 24, 1813.
James Smith, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Ireland,
about the year 1720. He was quite young when his father settled upon the Sus-
quehanna River, in Pennsyl
vania. He was sent to Phila
delphia at an early age, for the
purpose of receiving a liberal
education. He began the study
of law at Lancaster, and when
admitted to the bar, he re
moved westward, to a section then in an almost wilderness state, and prac
ticed both law and surveying. Being in favor of the American cause, he was
sent a delegate to the continental congress. He raised and drilled a volunteer
554 PENNSYLVANIA.
corps at York (the first raised in the state), which was the commencement of a
general organization of the militia in the province. Mr. Smith was quite an ec
centric man, possessed of much wit and humor. He died in July, 1806, and is
supposed to have been nearly ninety years of age.
John Morton, a signer of the declaration of independence, was of Swedish de
scent, and was born near Philadelphia, in 1724. When the revolution broke out,
he was sent a delegate to the general
congress. When the subject of the de
claration of independence was brought
before that body, the delegation from
Pennsylvania was equally divided. Mr.
Morton was called upon officially to give the casting vote for Pennsylvania. A sol
emn responsibility now rested upon him, which he met by voting yes. Mr. M. died
in April, 1777, in the 55th year of his age, leaving a widow and a large family of
children.
George Taylor, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Ireland,
and came to this country when about twenty years of age. He was well educated,
but was poor, and performed menial ser
vice on his arrival. He became a clerk
in the iron establishment of Mr. Savage,
at Durham, Pa. After the death of Mr.
/S., he married his widow, by which he
came into possession of considerable prop
erty, and the management of a business
by which he acquired a large fortune.
He was for some years a member of the colonial assembly, and in 1776 was a
member of the continental congress, in which he remained for one year, and then
withdrew from public life, and settled in Easton. He died in February, 1781, aged
sixty-five years.
James Wilson, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Scot
land, in 1742, and emigrated to America in 1766. Soon after his arrival he com
menced the study of law, and
fixed his residence in Phila
delphia. He was a distin
guished supporter of the
American cause, was active in
framing the federal constitu
tion, and was eventually appointed, by Washington, one of the judges of the su
preme court of the United States. He died at Edenton, N. C., Aug. 8, 1798, at the
house of his friend Judge Iredell, in the fifty-sixth year of his age.
George Ross, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in New Cas
tle, Del., in 1730. He was the son of an Episcopal clergyman, and was educated
as a lawyer, and fixed his res
idence at Lancaster, Pa. He
embraced the patriotic cause,
and was sent to the continen
tal congress. Mr. Ross ever
exercised an active sympathy
for the Indian tribes in his
vicinity. He was an advocate for mild measures against the tories, or friends of
the crown. He died in ] 780, in the fiftieth year of his age.
Charles Stewart, commodore in the United States Navy, was born of Irish pa
rentage, in Philadelphia, in 1778. He entered the navy as a lieutenant, and ren
dered valuable service in the war with Tripoli. In 1813 he was appointed to the
command of the Constitution, with which he destroyed several British vessels. In
1815 he took the British sloops-of-war Cyane and Levant, mounting unitedly 55
guns, after a sharp conflict of 40 minutes. In 1837 he succeeded Commodore Bar-
ron in command of the navy-yard at Philadelphia,
PENNSYLVANIA.
555
RESIDENCE OF GENERAL WAYNE.
Annexed is a view of the residence of Gen. Anthony Wayne, of revolutionary
memory. It is a solid structure of stone, yet standing in Chester county, about 25
miles south-west of Philadelphia, and
near the old Paoli Tavern.
The fearless courage and desperate
energy of Wayne, earned for him the
title of Mad Anthony. He was born
in Easttown, in Chester county, in 1745,
and was educated as a land-surveyor.
In 1773 he was elected to the legisla
ture of Pennsylvania, and at the out
break of the revolution was commis
sioned as colonel, and soon after be
came a brigadier. His valor and skill
were conspicuous in various actions.
In 1779 he made a night attack upon
Stony Point, on the Hudson, and took the entire garrison prisoners. It was one
of the most brilliant achievements of the war, and, next to Washington, rendered
him the most popular man in the army. After the defeat of St. Clair by the west
ern Indians, in 1791, Wayne made a campaign against the Indians, and achieved
a great victory over them in 1794, at the Battle of the Fallen Timbers, near the
site of Toledo, Ohio. The next year he concluded a peace with the North-western
tribes, and died in 1796, at Presque Isle, now Erie, Pa.
Thomas Mifflin, major-general under Washington, was born at Philadelphia, in
1744, was bred a merchant, and in 1774 was a delegate to congress. When the
news of the battle of Lexington was received, he roused his fellow-citizens to ac
tion, and was soon in person at the siege of Boston, as a major. At the age of 32
he was appointed a brigadier, and late in 1776, when torpor and discouragement
appeared to have seized the nation, he went through Pennsylvania and roused the
people by his persuasive eloquence to a new effort. In 1783 he was again elected
to congress, and was chosen its president. He was afterward a member of the con
vention which framed the federal constitution, took an active part in suppressing
the Whisky Insurrection, was 9 successive years governor of the state, and died
in 1800.
David Rittenhouse, the eminent mathematician, was born in Roxborough, near
Philadelphia, in 1732, and was apprenticed to a clock and mathematical instru
ment maker. At 28 years of age he went to Philadelphia, where he pursued his
mechanical business, giving his leisure to mathematics and astronomy. On the
death of Franklin, he was chosen president of the American Philosophical Soci
ety. His fame was now world-wide. In 1792 he was appointed first director of
the mint. He died in 1795, aged 64 years. On one occasion he had calculated
the transit of Venus across the sun. He stood watching the event, when, as the
disks of the two planets touched at precisely the calculated moment, such was his
excitement that he fainted.
Peter Muhlenberg, major-general in the revolution, was the son of Dr. Melchior
Muhlenberg, founder of the Lutheran Church in America, and was born at Trappe,
in Montgomery county. At the outbreak of the revolution, he was pastor of a
church in Woodstock, Va., where he entered the pulpit for the last time to preach
upon the duties men owe to their country. In the course of his sermon, he told
his hearers that " there was a time for all 'things — a time to preach and a time to
fight, and now was the time to fight." After the sermon, he stripped off his gown,
showed his commission as a colonel, and ordered the drummers to beat up for re
cruits. He had no difficulty in forming his regiment — his parishioners crowding
to his standard in great numbers. He was in service all through the war, being
in several battles, and conducting himself with the warm commendation of Wash
ington. After the war he was elected vice-president of Pennsylvania, and served
in various high offices — was senator in congress, collector of the port of Philadel
phia, etc. He died in 1807.
556 PENNSYLVANIA.
Hugh Brady, major-general in the United States army, was born in Pennsylva
nia, in 1768; entered the army and was an ensign in Wayne's Indian campaign.
He was a colonel at Lundy's Lane and Chippewa, and there distinguished himself.
He died at Detroit, in 1851, aged 83 years.
Stephen Decatur, commodore in the United States Navy, says Fennimore Cooper,
"was a Philadelphia bred sailor." His grandfather was an Italian, who emigrated
to Newport, Rhode Island, in the palmy days of that old city. His father was a
native of Newport; but his distinguished son was born in 1779, on the eastern
shore of Maryland, whither his mother had retired during the occupancy of Phil
adelphia by the British. His exploits in the wars with the Barbary powers, are
well known, and "gave him rank among the noblest spirits of the age." Among
all the heroes which our navy has produced, the memory of Decatur is probably
cherished more than that of any other in connection with the idea of heroic dar
ing and chivalrous impulse. He fell in a duel with Commodore Barron, in 1819,
at the early age of 40 years. The personal appearance of Decatur was so strking
that he at once riveted the attention of every one who saw him. " He was below
the middle size, but of a remarkably compact and symmetrical form. He was
broad-shouldered, full-chested, thin in the flank: his eye was black, piercing, and
lit with a spark of fire: his nose was thin and slightly hooked ; his lips were firm,
his chin small, but smartly developed. His whole face was long and bony ; his
complexion swarthy, his hair jet black, and twisted in ropy curls down his fore
head and over his ears."
James Biddle, commodore in the United States Navy, was born in Philadelphia,
in 1783; entered the navy as a midshipman, and was one of the captives in the
frigate Philadelphia, taken by the Tripolitans. In the war of 1812 he rendered
valuable services to his country. In 1845 he ratified a treaty with China, as United
States Commissioner; visited Japan in the Columbus, 74; and commanded the
squadron on the west coast of Mexico during the Mexican war. He died in 1848.
Joseph Reed was born in Trenton, in 1741 ; educated at Princeton, and settled
in Philadelphia. In 1775 he was the aid and secretary of Washington; in 1776
was adjutant-general of the American army ; in 1778 he was a member of congress,
at which time he uttered to a British commissioner these memorable words : "I
am not worth purchasing; but, such as 1 am, the king of Great Britain is not rich
enough to do it! " From 1778 to 1781, he was president of Pennsylvania, and died
in 1 785. at the age of 44 years.
Hugh Breckenridge was born in Scotland, and at five years of age came with his
father to the barrens of York county. He was educated at Princeton, and obtained
a license to preach. In 1777 he was a chaplain in the army; lived in camp,
preached to the soldiers, and went with them to battle, as in the time of the Cove
nanters. He afterward became a lawyer, and in 1781 crossed the mountains to
Pittsburg, and soon rose to the head of the bar in western Pennsylvania. He took
an active part in the Whisky Insurrection, siding with the insurgents so as to keep
them within the bounds of the law. He eventually became a judge of the supreme
court of the state, and died in 1816. Mr. Breckenridge. was a humorous writer,
and a man of great strength and brilliance of character. His Modern Chivalry, a
comic and satirical work of a political nature, gained him considerable repu
tation.
Robert Fulton, the first inventor who succeeded in convincing mankind of the
practicability of steam navigation, was born of Irish parentage, in Little Britain,
Lancaster county, in 1765. At the age of 21 years he went to London to receive
instruction in portrait painting, from Benjamin West. Abandoning the profes
sion, he turned his attention to civil engineering, and resided in Paris, with Joel
Barlow, seven years. With the pecuniary aid of Robert R. Livingston, he navi
gated the Seine with a steamboat in 1803; and coming to America under his pa
tronage, he built a steamboat on the Hudson, in 1807, called the Clermont, which
made the voyage from New York to Albany in 36 hours, against wind and tide,
and thus completed his triumph and secured his fame. He died in 1815, aged 50
years.
PENNSYLVANIA. 557
Judge Story, in a lecture before the Boston Mechanic's Lyceum, gave the
annexed interesting sketch of the first memorable voyage of Fulton, with the
Clermont :
u 1 myself have heard the illustrious inventor relate, in an animated and affect
ing manner, the history of his labors and discouragements. When, said he, 1
was building my first steamboat at New York, the project was viewed by the pub
lic either with indifference or with contempt, as a visionary scheme. My friends,
indeed, were civil, but they were shy. They listened with patience to my explan
ations, but with a settled cast of incredulity on their countenances. 1 felt the force
of the lamentation of the poet,
Truths would you teach to save a sinking land,
All shun, none aid you ; and few understand.
"As I had occasion to pass daily to and from the building yard, while my boat
was in progress, 1 have often loitered unknown near the idle groups of strangers,
gathering in little circles, and heard various inquiries as to the object of this new
vehicle. The language was uniformly that of scorn, or sneer, or ridicule. The loud
laugh often rose at my expense; the dry jest, the wise calculation of losses and ex
penditures; the dull but endless repetition of the "Fulton Folly." Never did a
single encouraging remark, a bright hope, or a warm wish, cross my path. Silence
itself was but politeness, vailing its doubts or hiding its reproaches. At length the
day arrived when the experiment was to be put into operation. To me it was a
most trying and interesting occasion. I invited my friends to go on board to wit
ness the first successful trip. Many of them did me the favor to attend as a matter
of personal respect, but it was manifest that they did it with reluctance, fearing to
be the partners of my mortification and not of my triumph. 1 was well aware that
in my case there were many reasons to doubt of my own success. The machinery
was new and ill made; many parts of it were constructed by mechanics unaceus-
tomed to such work, and unexpected difficulties might reasonably be presumed to
present themselves from other causes. The moment arrived in which the word
was to be given for the vessel to move; my friends were in groups upon deck; they
were silent, and sad, and weary. 1 read in their looks nothing but disaster, and
almost repented of my efforts. ' The signal was given, and the boat moved a short
distance, and then stopped and became immovable. To the silence of the preced
ing moment now succeeded murmurs of discontent, and agitations, and whispers,
and shrugs. I could hear distinctly repeated : '/ told you it would be so — it is a
foolish scheme — I wish we were well out of it.' I elevated myself upon a platform,
and addressing the assembly, stated that I knew not what was the matter; but if
they would be quiet, and indulge me for a half an hour, I would either go on or
abandon the voyage for that time. This short respite was conceded to without ob
jection. I went below, examined the machinery, and discovered that the cause
was a slight mal-adjustment of some of the works. The boat was put in motion.
She continued to move on. All were still incredulous. None seemed willing to
trust the evidence of their own senses. We left the fair city of New York ; we
passed through the romantic and ever-varying scenery of the highlands ; we de
scried the clustering houses of Albany; we reached its shores; and then, even
then, when all seemed achieved, I was the victim of disappointment. Imagination
superseded the influence of fact. It was then doubted if it could be done again;
or, if done, it was doubted if it could be made of any great value.
"Such was the history of the first experiment as it fell, not in the very language
which 1 have used but in substance, from the lips of the inventor. He did not
live, indeed, to enjoy the full glory of his invention."
Joseph Hopkinson, the author of HAIL COLUMBIA, was the son of Francis Hopkinson,
a signer of the declaration of independence. He was born at Philadelphia in 1770, and
was educated for the bar. He was a member of Congress from 1815 to 1819, and Judge of
the U. S. District Court from 1828 until his death, in 1842. He was a fine public speaker,
and, in addition to his professional duties, Judge Hopkinson filled the office of Vice Presi
dent of the American Philosophical Society, and President of the Philadelphia Academy
of the Fine Arts, an institution which owes its foundation to his exertions.
Hail Columbia was written in the summer of 1798, when a war with France was thought
to be inevitable, acts of hostility having actually occurred. It was intended by the author
558 PENNSYLVANIA.
to arouse an American spirit which should unite all parties. The occasion which brought
it forth is thus given by him. Congress was then in session in Philadelphia :
" The theater was then open in our city ; a young man whose talent was as a singer, was
about to take his benefit. I had known him when he was at school. On this acquaintance,
he called on me on Saturday afternoon, his benefit being announced for the following Mon
day. He said he had twenty boxes taken, and his prospect was that he should suffer a loss
instead of receiving a benefit from the performance, but that if he could get a patriotic song
adapted to the tune of the "President's March," then the "popular air, he did not doubt of a
full house ; that the poets of the theatrical corps had been trying to accomplish it but were
satisfied that no words could be composed to suit the music of that march. I told him I
would try for him. He came the next afternoon, and the song, such as it is, was ready for
him. It was announced on Monday morning, and the theater was crowded to excess, and
so continued night after night for the rest of the whole season, the song being encored and
repeated many times each night, the audience joining in the chorus. It was also sung at
night in the streets by large assemblies of citizens, including members of Congress. The
enthusiasm was general, and the song was heard, I may say, in every part of the United
States."
Benjamin West, the eminent painter, was born of Quaker parentage, in Spring
field, Chester county, in 1738. At seven years of age he showed fondness for art,
and with such materials for colors as his mother's indigo-bag and other like sources
could supply, he proceeded to make pic
tures — using hair twitched from the tail
of the unwilling house cat for brushes.
Emigrating first to .Italy, and then to
England, he was patronized by the no
bility, and became "painter to his majes
ty" King George III. For more than
thirty years he ruled "King of Art" in
England. He completed 28 grand pic
tures, illustrative of the progress of Re
vealed Religion, beside a number of other
BIRTH-PLACE OF BENJAMIN WEST. admirable works, principally of a histor
ical character. He died in 1820, in his
82cl year. The house in which West was born is yet standing; it is on the Chads-
ford road, about five miles north of Chester, one half a mile south of what was
once Gibbon's tavern.
Dr. Elisha Kent Kane was the son of Judge Kane, and was born in Philadel
phia, in 1822. He graduated at the University of Virginia, and then studied med
icine, and graduated at the University of Pennsylvania in 1843. Soon after, he
was appointed surgeon to the American mission to China, and traveled extensively
in the East and in Egypt, and traversed Greece on foot; served next on the west
ern coast of Africa, was in the Mexican war, then on the coast survey: was sur
geon in the first American expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, and pub
lished on his return a narrative of the expedition. He commanded the second
American expedition on the same errand. The history of this is the noblest mon
ument to his memory. Few Americans ever acquired fame so suddenly as he, by
his intrepid and wise conduct of this expedition. He died, soon after his return,
at Havana, of consumption, Feb. 16, 1857, at the "early age of 34 years, leaving this
lesson to his countrymen : " By acts, not years, is the work of life to be measured."
Isaac C. Strain, lieutenant in the navy, and celebrated as an explorer, was a na
tive of Pennsylvania. While a midshipman, he led a party to explore the interior
of Brazil; in 1848 he explored the peninsula of California; in 1849 he crossed
South America from Valparaiso to Buenos Ayres, and wrote a narrative called the
" Cordillera and Pampa. He was afterward attached to the Mexican Boundary
Commission, and later conducted the noted exploration across the Isthmus of I)a-
rien. The sufferings of the party, and the heroism of their leader, are vividly told
by Headley, in Harper's Magazine. He died at Aspinwall, May 15, 1857.
Persifer F. Smith, Major General U. S. Army, was born in Pennsylvania about 1790, but
removed to New Orleans, where he became eminent as a lawyer. He entered the army in
the Mexican war, in which he gained distinction. At the time of his death, in 1858, he
was in command of the military department which embraces Utah.
DELAWAKE.
ARMS OF DELAWARE.
LORD DE LA WAR, governor of Virginia, appears to have been the first
who entered the bay since known by his name. This was in 1610 ; the Dutch
visited it soon afterward, but the date
of their arrival is uncertain. In 1627,
by the influence of William Usseling,
an eminent Swedish merchant, a col
ony of Swedes and Finns, under the
sanction of Gustavite Adolphus, came
over to America. They first landed
at Cape Heulopen, the site of which
gave them such pleasure that they
called it "Paradise Point.''' Some
time after, they bought of the natives
the land from that cape to the Falls
of Delaware, and thus obtaining peace
able possession, called the country
New Sweden, and the River Delaware,
New-Swedeland Stream. They seated
themselves at the mouth of Christiana
creek, near Wilmington.
The Swedes being molested by the Dutch, who laid a claim to the coun
try, built forts at Christiana, Chester and Tinicum. This latter place, now in
the limits of Pennsylvania, was their seat of government, and their governor
(Printz) erected a strong fort of Hemlock logs, and a splendid mansion for
himself, called "Printz "Hall." In 1651, the Dutch, who had never relin
quished their claim to this region, built Fort Cassimir, on the site of New
Castle, and in 1655, sent a small force from New Amsterdam, with which
they reduced the Swedish settlements, which they incorporated with New
Netherlands. About thirty Swedes took the oath of fidelity to the States
General — the rest, with few exceptions, returned to Sweden.
In 1664, New Netherlands was taken from the Dutch by the English, and
the settlements on the Delaware fell into their hands. In 1674, Charles II
granted to his brother, the duke of York, all that country called by the Dutch
New Netherlands, of which the counties of New Castle, Kent and Sussex
were a part. In 1683 the duke of York sold to William Penn the town of
New Castle, with the district twelve miles around it ; and by another deed of
the same date, granted him the remainder of the territory, which, until the
revolution, was called the "Three Lower Counties.''1 These tracts, which con
stitute the present state of Delaware, were for twenty years governed as a
part of Pennsylvania. In 1703, the delegates from this section, dissatisfied
with the last charter prepared by Penn, seceded, and, liberty being given,
560 DELAWARE.
formed a distinct and separate assembly. The two portions of the province
were never afterward united, but the proprietor continued to possess the same
jurisdiction, and the same person uniformly acted as governor over both.
On Penn's arrival in the Delaware, in 1682, the Swedes at New Castle
joined the other inhabitants in demonstrations of joy. Shortly after his
landing he called his first legislature, which met at Upland, now Chester.
On this occasion the Swedes, as a distinct people, deputed Capt. Lesse" Cock
to address the proprietor on their behalf. Two or more members of the first
assembly were Swedes. Their writers speak of their situation under the pro
prietary government, in terms of affection and gratitude. In William Penn's
account, in 1683, he says: " The first planters in these parts were the Dutch,
and soon after them, the Swedes and Fins. The Dutch applied themselves
to traffic — the Swedes and Fins to husbandry. The Dutch inhabit mostly
those parts of the province that lie upon or near the bay ; the Swedes the
freshes of the River Delaware .... As they are a people proper and strong of
body, so they have fine children, and almost every house full And I
must do them the right to say, I see few young men more sober and labo
rious."
In 1776, Delaware declared herself an independent state, and a constitution
was framed by her inhabitants. In 1792, a new constitution was formed,
which several times since has been modified. In the revolutionary war the
Delaware regiment was considered the most efficient in the continental army. At
the disastrous battle of Camden, this regiment went into the action eight hun
dred strong, but at its close could not muster one hundred men — the rest be
ing either killed or wounded.
Delaware, next to Rhode Island, is the smallest state in the Union, and the
least in population. It is bounded N. by Pennsylvania (from which the arc
of a circle, drawn with a radius of 12 miles from New Castle as a center, di
vides it), on the east by Delaware Bay and the ocean, and on the W. and S.
by Maryland. The length of the state N. and S. is about 92 miles, and its
width varies from 36 miles at the S. to 10 at the N. Nearly the whole of
Delaware lies on the Atlantic plain. The northern part N. from Christiana
creek is hilly and somewhat rugged. South of this creek the surface is al
most perfectly level. The central and southern part of the state has a sandy
soil, which becomes more unproductive as the south is approached. At the
southern extremity of the state is a cypress swamp, about 12 miles long and
6 wide. The most fertile part is in the northern section. There are three
counties in the state — New Castle, Kent and Sussex. The population in
1790, was 59,096; in 1840, 78,085; in 1850, 91,535, of whom 17,957 were
free colored, and 2,289 slaves. In I860, 112,347.
WILMINGTON, the largest place in Delaware, is situated between Brandy-
wine and Christiana creeks, 1 mile above their junction and 2 miles from the
Delaware. It is 36 miles N, from Dover, by railroad from Philadelphia 28,
from Washington 108, from Baltimore 70, and from New York 115 miles.
Its site is pleasant and healthy — on ground gradually rising above tide-water
to the hight of 112 feet. It is regularly laid out, having broad and airy
streets, crossing each other at right angles. Wilmington has 5 banks, about
20 churches, St. Mary's College (a Catholic institution), and several acad
emies. Population is about 22,000. The hospital is located upon a fine em
inence, and is 126 feet long and 3 stories high. The manufactures of WiJ
DELAWARE.
561
niington are varied and extensive. Great water-power is afforded by the
falls of Brandywine, in the immediate vicinity, which is improved by mills
South-western view of Wilmington.
The above shows the appearance of the principal part of Wilmington, as seen from the New Castle road.
Christiana creek, which bounds the city on the south-west, is quite narrow, but deep. Market-street, the
principal business street, ascends from the bridge to the summit of the elevation, and is thickly studded
with shops, stores, etc. The city hall, custom house, and several churches, are on the elevated ground.
The car-house of the Philadelphia and Baltimore Railroad is seen on the right.
and factories of almost every kind. The flouring mills, at the northern ex
tremity of the city, are numerous, and among the most extensive in the Union.
The making of gun -powder has been carried on here very extensively for a
long time. Within 10 miles of Wilmington there are a large number of im
portant manufactories, rendering it one of the greatest manufacturing districts
in the United States, south of Philadelphia.
The first settlement at Wilmington was made by a colony of Swedes, under
the direction of Peter Minuet, who had been governor of New Netherlands,
but then in the service of Sweden. The colonists came over in two ships —
one called the "Key of Calmai," the other the "Griffin." These vessels
sailed from Gottenburg, on the west coast of Sweden, and arrived near Wil
mington in the spring of 1638. They anchored off the mouth of Minquas
River, which was named by them Christiana, in honor of the young queen of
Sweden. They then passed up the creek about two miles, until they came to
a point long known by the name of "The Rocks," which here form a natural
wharf of stone, where they built Fort Christiana ; and there, behind the fort,
they founded the town of Christiana Harbor, or Christianaham. Lindstrom,
who came out in 1652, left a plan of the town and fort, by which it appears
that on the easterly side of the fort, and immediately under its walls, was a
small cove or basin, called " the harbor," in which their vessels might lie
out of the current of the Christiana, and without danger from the floating ice
on the breaking up of winter. This basin is now filled up, and cattle are
browsing where their ships were once moored. "The first colonists," says
Collin, in his history, "lived near together, about Christiana creek, and had
their public worship in the fort there. This was the first place dedicated
to Christian worship on the banks of the Delaware."
In August, 1655, Stuyvesant, the Dutch governor of New Amsterdam, with
562
DELAWARE.
a squadron of seven armed ships and transports, containing between six and
seven hundred men, sailed for the Delaware, and having taken Fort Cas-
simir, laid siege to Fort Christiana. Rising, the Swedish governor, had a
force of only thirty men, and with these he could make no sortie, or prevent
the Dutch from gaining positions to completely command the fort. On the
24th of August, Stuyvesant summoned Rising to surrender within twenty-
four hours, or suffer the consequences of a capture by force of arms. Being
without a supply of powder, or hope of relief, the Swedes were compelled to
capitulate.
All the country on the west side of the Delaware was divided into two col
onies. That which included Fort Christiana, was called the "Colony of the
Company." In 1658, William Beekman, an alderman of the city of Amster
dam, was appointed vice-governor over the colony — his residence being at Al-
tonia, now Wilmington. The number of Swedish families in the colony at
this time was but one hundred and thirty, although they comprised the ma
jority of the population. The Dutch had no regular ministry among them,
while the Swedes were careful to maintain public worship as constantly as
their isolated situation would admit, and being much the larger portion of the
population, especially about Christiana, the rising generation lost their Dutch
character and language.
The ancient Swedes' Church,
in Wilmington, was erected
in 1699. Its size inside the
walls, which are of hard free
stone, is 60 feet in length, 30
in breadth, and 20 in hight.
It was dedicated in May, on
Trinity Sunday, and was named
Trinity Church. The corner
stone was laid on the 28th of
May, 1698. It is said that all
the materials for the building-
were carried in hand barrows,
and that the Swedish women
filled their aprons with, sand,
handing it to the workmen,
so anxious were they to have
the building completed. Will
iam Penn was so much pleased
with the energy of the con
gregation, that he presented
them a bill for fifty pounds
sterling, to aid in the good work. In the east end of the church, over the
large window, iron letters were built in the wall, forming the Latin sentence,
Lux L. S. TENEBR. ORIENS EX ALTO. On the south front, over the door,
was the word IMMANUEL. On the north side was the sentence, " POL Ml
CHRIST." On the west end, over the large door, was the following inscrip
tion, in the same kind of letters, built in the wall :
" 1698. Si DB, PRO NOBIS Quis CONTRA NOS PUB IMP. REG. D. G. ANG. WILL. Ill, Propr.
Will. Penn, vice Gub. Will., Magnif. Reg. Suec. Nunc. Glov. Memor. Carol. XI. Hue
Ableg: E. T. B. W. S. P. L."
[If God be for us, who can be against us ? Rom. viii, 31. Under the reign of William
III, by the grace of God, king of England, William Penn, proprietary, William Markham,
SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF SWEDES' CHURCH AT WILMINGTON.
DELAWARE. 5(33
vice-governor, and in the reign of Charles XI, of Sweden. Their great king, now of glo
rious memory, sent to this place E. T. B. Biork, W. S. P. L. Wholly Stobey, highest sub
scriber.]
In 1762, the north and south walls of the church, owing to the heavy
pressure of the arched ceiling and roof, became bulged outward six or eight
inches. In order to prevent further damage, porticos were built on the north
and south sides, to serve as buttresses or supports to the wall. In 1802, a
small steeple of brick was built at the west end of the church. The grave
yard which surrounds the building, was used by the first Swedish settlers as
a place of interment, before the erection of their church edifice. The old
est gravestone within the inclosure appears to be that of William Vandever,
who was interred Oct. 11, 1719. " For one hundred years after the adja
cent city of Wilmington was laid olit, the old church stood nearly half a
mile from the built part of it. Its situation was secluded and quiet. The
Christiana flowed by, between its green bordering of reeds, but a few paces
from the church yard walls. Many a bright sail was to be seen in a summer
evening, gliding along its noiseless current. Beyond it was the beautiful
Brandywine, and still further on, the majestic Delaware, bounded by the blue
line of Jersey woods, and rolling its mighty waters toward the mightier At
lantic. Rich green meadows lay immediately round the church." But
time and trade have made encroachments on this venerable spot. The city is
fast invading the quietude and retirement of the old church. The Philadel
phia, Wilmington and Baltimore Railroad has pushed its way through part
of the graveyard. The very spot where the warlike Peter Stuyvesant, gov
ernor of New Netherlands, and John Claudii Rising, governor general of
New Sweden, held a parley upward of two hundred years since, for the sur
render of Fort Christiana, is now " a yawning gulf," excavated wide and deep,
out of which have been taken thousands of tuns of stone to make the Dela
ware breakwater.
The following inscription is copied from a monument in the new cemetery
at Wilmington :
Erected to the memory of Captain DAVID H. PORTER, nephew of the late Commodore Por
ter, born in New Castle county, Delaware, Feb. 19, 1805. Having served in the U. S. Navy
until he had obtained the rank of Lieut., he entered that of Mexico whilst she was engaged
with Spain in her struggle for Liberty and Independence. On the 10th of Feb., 1828,
whilst commanding the brig-of-war Guerriere of 22 guns and 136 men, he engaged two
Spanish brigs-of-war of superior force, and was victorious over their united strength. On
the same day the Spanish frigate Lealtad, of 54 guns and 500 men, attacked him while in a
crippled condition, and after a desperate action of 2 hours and 20 minutes, his ammunition
being exhausted, Captain Porter surrendered to save his brave crew. The frigate contin
ued her fire. As the colors of the brig had been twice shot away, Capt. Porter was in the act
of hoisting them when he was killed by a grape shot passing through his body. Thus fell
Captain David H. Porter, in the 23d year of his age, after as gallant a battle as history
records.
He sleeps in death, the dauntlets hero sleeps,
No more to listen to the trump of fame ;
Columbia's genius bending o'er him, weeps,
A sacred tribute due brave Porter's name.
NEW CASTLE, one of the oldest towns on the Delaware, and at one time
the capital of the state, is situated on the west bank of Delaware River, five
miles S. from Wilmington, and 31 N. from Dover. Its harbor is protected
by long piers ; railroads to Wilmington and Frenchtown afford direct com
munication with Philadelphia and Baltimore. It contains the county build
ings, five churches, a bank, a public library of 4,000 volumes, and about
4,000 inhabitants.
36
564
DELAWARE.
In 1651, the Dutch erected a trading house, rather than a fortification, on
a low point of land which commanded the Delaware, near where New Castle
now stands. Hudde, left to rule and traffic there, purchased of the Min-
quaas the lands on the western side of the Delaware, from Christiana creek to
the River Bompthook ; which was the earliest purchase there made by the
Dutch. The Swedes, observing this conduct of their rivals, protested against
it, and Rising, the Swedish governor, took the place by force the next year,
and named it Fart Cassimir. In 1655, the Dutch reduced the Swedish set
tlements, arid in 1666, the governor general and his council at New Amster
dam, gave seventy-five deeds for land, chiefly for lots in the town of New
Amstel, just then beginning to assume the character of a village. This was
the commencement of the beautiful town, New Castle.
Western view of the central part of New Castle.
Tho court house, is seen on the left, the town hall and market on the right. The spire of the Episcopal
Church between the hall and court house ; the Presbyterian Church on the right.
In 1657, some curious municipal regulations were established at New Am-
stel. All lots were to be fenced before the middle of March, under a pen
alty of six gyllen. Goats to be guarded by herdsmen, or all damages done
by them to be satisfied. None to enter the fort by land or water without
leave. None to settle between Fort Cassimir and Christiana, that wood might
be saved for the use of the town and fort. All swine to be yoked within 24
hours, or be killed by the soldiers. In 1672, the town of New Castle was
incorporated by the English government at New York, to be governed by a
bailiff and six assistants ; after the first year, the oldest four were to leave
their office, and four others to be chosen. The bailiff was president, with a
double vote; the constable was chosen by the bench. They had power to
try causes not exceeding £10, without appeal. The office of scout was con
verted into that of sheriff, who had jurisdiction in the corporation and along
the river, and was annually chosen. They were to have a free trade, with
out being obliged to make entry at New York, as had formerly been the
practice.
The old church in New Castle is called Immamtel Church, and was erected
between the years 1702 and 1704. It is something similar in form to the
Swedes' Church in Wilmington. A congregation has statedly assembled
there since 1705, expect perhaps during a part of the revolutionary war.
DELAWARE.
565
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the graveyard at
tached to this church :
To the memory of JOHN CUKTISS, Esq., late Speaker of the Assembly, Judge of the Su
preme Court, Treasurer and Trustee of the Loan Office, who departed this life Nov. 18th,
1753, aged 61 years. If to be prudent in council, upright in judgment, faithful in trust,
give value to public men, to be sincere in Friendship, affectionate to Relations, and kind to
all Mankind, make the private man amiable : thy death, 0 Curtiss, as a general loss long
shall be lamented.
GEORGE READ, born A. D. 1732, died 21st December, 1798, Member of the Congress of the
Revolution; of the Convention that formed the Constitution of the United States, and of
the first Senate formed under it; Judge of Admiralty ; President and Chief Justice of Del
aware, and a signer of the Declaration of Independence.
DOVER, the capital of
Delaware, is situated be
tween the two branches
of Jones' creek, 10 miles
above its entrance into
Delaware Bay, and 48
miles S. from Wilming
ton, with which it is con
nected by railroad. It is
regularly laid out, with
streets crossing each oth
er at right angles. The
state house is situated on
the west side of the pub
lic square. There are 4
churches, a bank, and
about 1,200 inhabitants.
Bishop Whatcoat, of
the Methodist Episcopal
Church, died in the vil
lage in a building now
occupied as the Farmers'
Bank, on the opposite
side of the square from
the court house. The following inscription is copied from a monument in
the Methodist graveyard near the railroad station :
In memory of RICHARD WHATCOAT, who was born at Dunton, Gloucestershire, England,
A. D. 1736; became a traveling preacher in 1769, was ordained Elder by Rev. John Wes
ley, and sent to America with Dr. Coke, to assist in organizing the Methodist Episcopal
Church, in 1784 ; was constituted Bishop at the General Conference in 1800, and after six
years faithful service in the Episcopal office, died in great peace in Dover, Delaware, July
5th, 1806. In Life, and in Death, he was the model of a Christian, a Minister, and a scrip
tural Bishop. Erected A. D. 1855, by the Philadelphia Annual Conference and the Congre
gation of Wesley Church in Dover. This stone marks the site of the old Wesley Church
erected in 1780; the grave being under the Pulpit.
The following inscriptions are from monuments in the graveyard by the
Presbyterian Church :
In memory of JOHN HASLET, Esquire, Colonel of the Delaware Regiment, who fell glori
ously at the battle of Princeton in the cause of American Independence, Jan. 3, 1777. The
General Assembly of Maryland, of the Delaware State, remembering his virtues as a man,
his merits as a citizen, and his services as a soldier, have caused this monumental stone in
testimony of their respect, to be placed over his grave, Anno MDCCLXXXIII. Erected by
the State of Delaware as a testimony of respect to the memory of Col. John Haslet, whose
566 DELAWARE.
remains, according to a Resolution of the Legislature on the 22d of Feb., 1841, were re
moved from their resting place in the graveyard of the First Presbyterian Church in the
city of Philadelphia, and here interred on Saturday the 3d of July, 1841.
In memory of the Honorable JOHN PATTEN, Esquire, who distinguished himself as a brave
and useful officer during the Revolutionary war, and afterwards served his country with
honor at different periods, as a member of the American Congress. Amiable and beloved
in social and domestic life ! a firm Patriot ! an honest man ! He departed this life on the
26th day of December, 1800, aged 54 years and 8 months.
In memory of Honorable THOMAS CLAYTON, who departed this life Aug. 21st, 1854, in the
77th year of his age, beloved, respected, and universally regretted by all who knew him.
Having fulfilled his mission on earth to the entire satisfaction of every one, this great and
good man has now gone to a better world to dwell with the blessed in Heaven. Integer
yitae Scelerisque Purus.
In memory of WILLIAM KILLKN, Esquire. He was born in Ireland, A. D. 1772. He
landed in Philadelphia, A. D. 1737, and soon afterwards came to this State and settled in
this county. He was for many years member of the Bar, and at different times a Repre
sentative of the General Assembly. In the commencement of the Revolution, he accepted
the office of chief justice of the Supreme Court, and the discharge of the duties of that of
fice until the establishing the Constitution of 1792. Under this Constitution he was ap
pointed chancellor, and held the office until A. D. 1801, when in consequence of his age,
he resigned it. He died Oct. 5th, 1805, aged 83 years, having sustained through a long
life in difficult times and important stations, the unquestioned character of an honest man.
Consecrated to the memory of the Rev. JOHN MILLER, A. M., who died July 22d, 1791, in
the 69th year of his age. He sustained more than 43 years the pastoral charge of the
Presbyterian churches of Dover and Duck Creek. Pious, faithful and beloved.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, ETC.
George Read, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Cecil
county, in Maryland, in 1734. He commenced the study of law at the age of 17,
and in 1754, he settled in the county of
New Castle, Delaware, and commenced
the practice of his profession. He rose
to various offices of distinction. He
was elevated to the bench as chief jus
tice of the supreme court of Delaware,
in 1793, and died in 1798, in the 64th
year of his age.
Ccesar Rodney, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born at Dover,
Delaware, in 1730. Mr. R. was brought up to agricultural pursuits. He was sent
a delegate to the general congress,
and while performing his duties
there, he was appointed a briga-
dier-general of his province. He
appears to have atfended to both
these duties, alternately in con
gress and at home. When the
British, under Lord Howe, landed at the mouth of Elk River, and directed their
march toward Philadelphia, he joined the main army under Washington. Mr.
Rodney was also chosen president of Delaware, which, being much exposed to tho
enemy, rendered his duties arduous. While he was thus laboring for h'is coun
try s, good, he suffered greatly from a cancer on his cheek, which had been upon
him from his youth. He died in 1783, in the 53d year of his age.
Joseph Kirkwood, a highly esteemed officer of the revolution, " was the gallant
and unrewarded Capt. Kirkwood, of the Delaware line," to whom frequent and
honorable allusion is made in Lee's Memoirs of the southern campaigns. Dela
ware had but one continental regiment, which, at the defeat at Cainden with the
DELAWARE. 5(37
Maryland regiment, for a time, nobly sustained the whole weight of the combat
The regiment, although, was nearly annihilated, being reduced to a single com
pany, at the head of which was placed Kirkwood. It was, therefore, from that
time forth, impossible for Kirkwood to be promoted, owing to the small force — a
single company — Delaware was able to maintain in the service. Kirkwood was
in many bloody actions during the war. About the year 1790, he emigrated to
Delaware, Ohio. When St. Clair's campaign was began, in 1791, he raised a vol
unteer company among his neighbors, and was with them at the defeat of St. Clair,
"where he fell in a brave attempt to defeat the enemy with the bayonet, and thus
closed a career as honorable as it was unrewarded."
Thomas M' Kean, signer of the decla
ration of independence, was born in
Chester county, Fa., in 1734, and was edu
cated to the bar. He was a delegate to
congress, from Delaware, in 1774, and in
v j — f 1781, was president of congress. During
t f the war he took an active part in military
affairs. For 20 years he was chief jus
tice of Pennsylvania, and in 1799, was elected governor. He died in 1817, in the
84th year of his age.
David Jones, a patriotic chaplain in the revolutionary army, was born in 1736,
in New Castle county, Delaware. He was settled as a pastor over a Baptist
Church in Upper Freehold, New Jersey, at the time of the outbreak of the revolu
tion, when he so zealously espoused the republican cause, that he became obnox
ious to the tories ; believing his life was in danger, he left and took charge of the
Great Valley Baptist Church, in Chester county, Pa. Soon after he preached a
sermon before Col. Davie's regiment, entitled u Defensive War in a Just Cause,
Sinless" which, being published, had a most salutary effect. He was appointed,
in 1770, chaplain to St. Clair's regiment. He served two campaigns under Gates,
and became chaplain to Gen. Wayne's brigade in 1777, and so remained to the
close of the war, sharing in the battles of the soldiers, and in their sufferings at
Valley Forge and elsewhere. Such was his activity as a soldier, that when the
British held possession of Philadelphia, Gen. Howe offered a reward for him, and
sent, on one occasion, a detachment of soldiers to make him a prisoner. Lossing
says of him : u While reconnoitering alone, one night, Chaplain Jones saw a dra
goon dismount and enter a house for refreshments. Mr. Jones boldly approached,
seized the horseman's pistols, and going into the house, claimed the owner as his
prisoner. The unarmed dragoon was compelled to obey his captor's orders, to
mount and ride into the American camp. The event produced great merriment,
and Wayne laughed immoderately at the idea of a British dragoon being captured
by his chaplain." In the last war with Great Britain, he again served as chap
lain under Brown and Wilkinson, although 76 years of age. He was present, and
delivered the dedicatory address at the laying of the corner stone of the Paoli
monument in 1817. He died in 1820, aged 83 years, and was buried in the Great
Valley church-yard, near the village of Valley Forge.
Thomas Macdonough, commodore in the United States Navy, was born in New
Castle county, Delaware, in 1783; entered the navy as midshipman at 15 years,
and was one of the daring men selected by Decatur, to assist in burning the Phila
delphia frigate, in the harbor of Tripoli. His great victory over the British fleet,
in Lake Champlain, Sept. 11, 1814, secured as it was by superior seamanship and
gunnery, has rendered his name immortal in our naval annals. He died in 1825.
Lossing relates these anecdotes of him, in his American biography :
When the British squadron appeared off Cumberland-head, on Lake Champlain,
Macdonough knelt on the deck of the Saratoga (his flag-ship), in the midst of his
men, and prayed to the God of Battles for aid. A curious incident occurred dur
ing the engagement that soon followed. A British ball demolished a hen-coop on
board the Saratoga. A cock, released from his prison, flew into. the rigging, and
crowed lustily, at the same time flapping his wings with triumphant vehemence.
The seamen regarded the event as a good omen, and they fought like tigers, while
568 DELAWARE.
the cock cheered them on with its Growings, until the British flag was struck and
the firing ceased.
On one occasion, while first lieutenant of a vessel, lying in the harbor of Gibral
tar, an armed boat from a British man-of-war boarded arrAmerican brig, anchored
near, in the absence of the commander, and carried off a seaman. Macdonough
manned a gig, and with an inferior force, made chase and recaptured the sea
man.
The captain of the man-of-war came aboard Macdonough's vessel, and in a great
"That you can do," coolly responded Macdonough, "but while she swims, that
man you will not have."
The captain, roaring with rage, said, " Supposing /had been in that boat, would
you have dared to commit such an act?"
"I should have made the attempt, sir," was the calm reply.
"What! " shouted the captain, " if I were to impress men from that brig, would
you interfere ? "
" You have only to try it, sir," was Macdonough's tantalizing reply.
The haughty Briton was over-matched, and he did not attempt to try the metal
of such a brave young man. There were cannon balls in his coolness, full of
danger.
Jacob Jones, commodore in the United States Navy, was born in Smyrna, Dela
ware, in 1770; studied medicine at the University of Pennsylvania; entered the
navy and was lieutenant on the Philadelphia, when she was taken by the Tripoli-
tans. In the late war with Great Britain, he commanded the sloop-of-war Wasp,
in her victory over the Frolic, which was one of the most creditable encounters of
the war. He died in 1850.
James A. Bayard, an eminent statesman of Delaware, was born in Philadelphia,
in 1767; graduated at Princeton, was educated at the bar, and settled in Dela
ware. He was a member of the house of representatives from 1797 to 1804, and
of the United States Senate from 1804, until he was appointed by President Madi
son, a commissioner to negotiate a peace with Great Britain, and assisted in the ne
gotiation of peace at Ghent. He died in 1815. Mr. Bayard was highly esteemed
for his talents and personal worth.
John M. Clayton was born in Sussex county, in 1796, graduated at Yale College
in 1815, and was educated for the law. He was first elected to the United States
Senate in 1845, and was also a member of that body at the time of his death, in
1856. He was secretary of state under President Taylor, during which period he
negotiated the famous Clay ton- Bulwer Treaty. During his whole public career,
he°acquitted himself uprightly, with dignity and ability.
MARYLAND.
ARMS OF MARYLAND.
Orescite et Multiplicamini. — Increase and multiply.
THE first white settlement in the bounds of Maryland was commenced in
1631, on Kent Island, now a part of Queen Anne county, by William Clai-
borne, with a party from Virginia.
But the charter under which Mary
land was permanently established,
was granted by Charles I, to Ceci-
lius Calvert, second Lord Baltimore,
in 1G32. The name Terra Maria, or
Mary's land, was given to it in honor
of Henrietta Maria, queen of the
reigning monarch. The territory
covered by the grant had been par
tially explored four years previously
by Sir George Calvert, the father of
the grantee, who on his return to
England obtained the assent of the
king to a grant of territory, but died
before the requisite formalities were
obtained.
The object of Lord Baltimore, a
distinguished Catholic, in obtaining a
grant of territory, was to furnish an asylum where persons of his religious
faith could enjoy their opinions unmolested. A body of about 200 emi
grants, mostly Catholics, embarked on board two vessels, the "Ark and
the Dove," which sailed from Cowes, on the Isle of Wight, Nov. 22, 1633.
After a long and eventful passage, by the way of the West Indies and Vir
ginia, they landed on the Island of St. Clement, on the 25th of March, in
1634: being the feast of " the Annunciation." They took solemn possession
of Maryland " in the name of the Saviour of the world, and the king of Eng
land." The mass being ended, these "pilgrims of St. Mary's " formed in
procession, led on by the governor, Leonard Calvert, the secretary and other
officers — carry on their shoulders a huge cross, hewn from a tree, which they
erected upon the island, as an emblem of Christianity and civilization, which
they were about to plant on these shores. On the 27th, they commenced a
settlement on the main land at St. Mary's, which may be considered as the
date of the foundation of the colony.
The colonists took especial care to live on friendly terms with the natives,
treating them with justice and kindness ; they were met with equal kindness
on the part of the Indians, who in many instances gave up their huts and
cultivated fields for the benefit of the settlers. Other circumstances, also,
favored the rapid population of the colony. The charter granted more ample
privileges than had ever been conceded to a subject. The country was invit-
(569)
570 MARYLAND.
ing; from the south, churchmen drove Puritans, from the north, Puritans
drove churchmen into her borders, where all were received, protected, and
cherished. The charter granted to the inhabitants the privilege of passing
laws either by themselves or representatives, without reserving to the crown,
as had been done in previous charters, the right to reject the laws so passed.
Shortly after his landing, the governor directed his attention to Claiborne's
settlement on Kent Island, and gave the leader notice that he must consider
himself a subject of the proprietary. Claiborne refused compliance, and
after some hard fighting, both he and his followers were banished from the
colony. The first legislature was convened in 1639, and passed many wise
and useful laws. When the civil war between the king and parliament be
gan, Claiborne embraced the cause of the latter, and returned to Maryland.
By his intrigues, in 1645, he fomented a rebellion against its rulers, who
were attached to the royal cause. Calvert, the governor, was compelled to
fly to Virginia, and the insurgents seized the reins of government. The
next year, however, the revolt was suppressed.
In 1649, the assembly of Maryland passed that noble act of toleration, by
which all sects and denominations were secured in the public profession of
their faith. At the time of the revolution in England, the Puritans, who
had been expelled from Virginia as non- conformists, having settled in Mary
land, believed the time was now come to oppose the Catholic and monarchical
party. They settled at Providence, which at a later period received the
name of Annapolis, and became the seat of government. Demurring to some
of the regulations of government, in order to conciliate them, their settle
ments were erected into a separate county under the name of Ann Arundcl;
and soon after Charles county was organized for the additional numbers
which came into the province.
After the death of King Charles I, the supporters of the commonwealth
were in the majority. They removed Gov. Stone the representative of Lord
Baltimore and established the authority of Cromwell. In 1654, Lord Bal
timore made an effort to restore his authority. He succeeded and restored
Gov. Stone. Clairborne and Bennet then returned to Maryland, deposed the
Governor and reversed the proceedings of Lord Baltimore. A civil war
commenced and Gov. Stone in 1655, made a determined effort to restore the
proprietary government. St. Mary's was the focus or capital of the royalists :
while the actual possessors of power considered Providence as the seat of
lawful authority.
With his whole force, Gov. Stone proceeded to Providence, and made an
attack on the Puritans, whom they found prepared to receive them at that
place. A battle ensued, in which the latter were completely victorious. The
victors treated their conquered enemies as traitors and rebels. Many of
them, including the governor, were* condemned to death, and at least four of
them were executed. Gov. Stone and his council were spared, at the inter
vention of the victorious soldiers. In 1660, after three years of civil com
motion, the power of the proprietary was restored, and his brother, Philip
Carteret, was appointed governor. At this period the colony contained about
12,000 inhabitants.
" In 1660, twenty-six years from the foundation of the colony, the population of
Maryland was about 12,000; in 1665, it was 16,000; and in 1671, it had increased
to 20,000. The extension of political organization had kept pace with population.
Up to this period seven counties had been founded, but there were no considera
ble towns. St. Mary's and Providence were still small villages. Importations
MARYLAND. 571
supplied the place of domestic manufactures, except such as were made in the
families of the settlers.
The period of the introduction of slavery into Maryland has not been fixed with
exactness ; but it was probably nearly contemporaneous with the foundation of
the colony, and it is even thought that Claiborne had negrc servants with him on
his first settlement on Kent Island. It is a well ascertained fact that slaves were
brought into Virginia by a Dutch ship as early as 1620. Mention of negro slaves
is first made in the laws of Maryland in 1663 ; but there can be little doubt that
the allusions in previous statutes to slaves, without the prefix, referred to the Afri
can or his descendant. In 1671, an act was passed to encourage their importa
tion. There was, however, another class of servants called Redemptionists, emi
grants from Europe who had pledged their services for certain terms of years, in
order to procure the means of transportation to the New World. Their time was
sold at public auction. Baltimore seems to have been the port to which this class
chiefly came, and they afterward formed a numerous and respectable class of
citi/ens.
From the earliest period, the condition of the African race in Maryland had
attracted much attention. By gradations which there are now no means of tra
cing, this class of the population had attained, in 1790, the number of 111,069, of
which 8,043 were free, and 103,036 were slaves. The slaves then comprised about
half the population in the state ; they have since decreased, and now comprise less
than one quarter. The tendency of public opinion in this state, for many years
subsequent to the commencement of the revolution, seemed favorable to emanci
pation, and its effect was perceived in the gradual increase of free blacks. It was
shown by the census of 1800, that the free colored had gained 11,544 during the
preceding ten years, equal to 143 per centum, while the slaves had increased only
2,599, or about 2i per centum. The decennial census from this period exhibited
an equally remarkable increase of free negroes and decrease of slaves, so that
from 1790* to 1850, the free negroes had increased 821 per centum, and the slaves
had decreased more than 12 per centum. But during the first 20 years of this pe
riod there had been a small increase of slaves, so that for the n6xt 30 years, to
1840, the falling off had been 21,765, or about 19 per centum; -which decrease, if
sustained, would have extirpated slavery in Maryland in a very short time ; but
owing to various circumstances in the history of the times, the policy of emanci
pation, without a provision for the removal of the persons whose condition was ef
fected by it, began to be looked upon with disfavor, and a provision was inserted
in the constitution of 1836, declaring, 'That the relation of master and slave, in
this state shall not be abolished, unless a bill for that purpose shall be passed by
a unanimous vote of both branches of the general assembly, be published three
months before a new election, and be unanimously confirmed by a succeeding leg
islature.' Thus was checked effectually the disposition to public emancipation;
but individuals continued to exercise it, and the prevalence of this desire to con
fer freedom upon slaves gave occasion to the institution of the American Coloni
zation Society, about the year 1819; a branch of the association was established
in Maryland, but in order to obviate certain features in the organization and pro
ceedings of the general society, not acceptable to the friends of coloni/ation in this
state, it was determined to establish an independent colony in Africa for the blacks
of Maryland. The legislature extended its fostering care to the enterprise, and
an annual appropriation of $20,000 was allowed to the society, which is yet con
tinued. The Maryland colony has flourished, having now a considerable trade,
and being visited, at stated periods, by regular packets from Baltimore."
In 1676, Cecil, Lord Baltimore, the father of the province, died. For
more than forty years he had directed its affairs as proprietor, and displayed
in all his conduct a benevolent heart and enlightened understanding. Al
though he lived in an age of bigotry, he was liberal in his opinions. The
records of the Maryland assembly contain frequent memorials of the re
spect and affection of the people. He was succeeded as proprietor by his
eldest son, Charles, who had for several years been governor of the colony,
572 MARYLAND.
and displayed the same amiable qualities which had rendered his father re
spected and beloved. On the occurrence of the revolution in England, in
1688, the government of Maryland was assumed by King William, and in
1691, Sir Leonel Copely was appointed governor. Among the first acts of
the new government was the removal of the capital from St. Mary's to Prov
idence, thence after known as Annapolis.
In 1715, the government was again restored to the family of the proprie
tary, who continued to exercise authority until the American revolution. In
1740, Maryland contributed 500 volunteers and £7,500 to the disastrous ex
pedition against the Spanish main. In 1748, the province contained about
130,000 inhabitants, of whom 94,000 were white, and 36,000 colored per
sons. The great staple export was tobacco; in 1747, 5,000 hogsheads were
exported, and for many purposes, tobacco was the currency of the province.
In 1732, tobacco was made a legal tender at one penny per pound, and In
dian corn at 20 pence per bushel. The boundary disputes of Maryland are
somewhat celebrated. It was contended that the original grant to Lord Bal
timore covered all the territory bordering the Atlantic and Delaware Bay,
between 38° and 40° north latitude, including the whole of Delaware and a
considerable strip of Pennsylvania. A part of this tract was afterward
granted by the duke of York to William Penn. This occasioned many dis
putes between the two colonies. In 1750, commissioners were appointed to
determine the line. The " scientific gentlemen" employed in this important
service were Messrs. Mason and Dixon, from whom this celebrated boundary
received its name. They began at the angle formed by the intersection of
the boundary line between Delaware and Maryland with that between Penn
sylvania and Maryland, and proceeded westward 130 miles, when their ope
rations were suspended, by fear of the hostilities of the Indians. At the end
of every mile they set up a stone, with the letter " P " and the arms of Penn en
graved on the north side, and " M," with the escutcheon of Lord Baltimore
on the south. In 1782-3, a continuation was made of "Mason and Dixons
Line " to its western terminus.
After the revolution commenced, delegates were chosen to frame a con
stitution and state government. The elections took place in Nov. 1776, and
the new legislature convened in Annapolis, Feb. 5, 1777. Thomas Johnson
was chosen the first constitutional governor of Maryland.
" Throughout the revolutionary war, the services of the Maryland troops
were marked by gallantry and efficiency. In the first considerable action
after that of Bunker Hill, the "Maryland line " signalized its valor, and took
a high position among the several corps of the continental army. They
were under the command of Col. Wm. Smallwood, who afterward became a
major general, and one of the most distinguished officers whose achieve
ments in the struggle illustrate the bravery of his native state. In the bat
tle of Long Island, and in those of Harlem Hights, White Plains and Fort
Washington, the Maryland regiments were conspicuous for their courage
and discipline ; nor were they less so in the memorable actions at Trenton
and Princeton. With the exception of actions in the campaign against Bur-
gyne, indeed, there was no prominent battle of the war, from Brooklyn
Hights to Yorktown, in which the Marylanders did not take an active arid
honorable part ; and under every commander — Washington, LaFayette, De-
Kalb and Greene — they earned special notice and applause for gallantry and
good conduct. The number of troops furnished by Maryland during the
war was 15,229 regulars, and 5,407 militia ; and the expenditures of the
MARYLAND. 573
state amounted to $7,568,145 in specie* a large portion of which was raised
by the sale . of confiscated British property within the state. On the 23d
Dec., 1783, the brilliant drama of the revolution was closed by Washing
ton's resignation of his commission. This event took place at Annapolis, in
the presence of Congress, the state legislature, many officers who had served
through the war, and a crowd of deeply interested spectators. The cere
mony constitutes a scene in American history, second in importance only to
the reading of the declaration of independence."
The Catholics of Maryland, who had been under the jurisdiction of a vi
car appointed by the bishop of the Roman Church in London, saw fit to con
form the regulation of their church affairs to their altered condition. In
1787, in pursuance of the request of the clergy of this order in the state,
the Rev. John Carroll became by appointment from Rome, spiritual supe
rior. In 1790, he was appointed bishop of the whole United States, as the
diocese, of which Baltimore was the center, was the only one then existing.
In 1810, on the division of his see into several bishoprics, he was made an
archbishop.
In the war of 1812, Admiral Cockburn, commanding the British naval
forces, committed a series of outrages on the shores of Chesapeake Bay. In
the spring of 1813, the villages of Frenchtown, Havre de Grace, Frederick-
town and Georgetown were plundered and burnt by his orders ; and in Aug.,
1814, occurred the expedition of Gen. Ross against the city of Washington.
The Battle of North Point, near Baltimore, was fought Sept. 13, 1814 : the
British lost about 400 men, the Americans about half that number. The
evening of the next day the enemy commenced a bombardment of Fort Mc-
Henry, the work chiefly relied on for the defense of Baltimore. The attack
was gallantry repelled, and the enemy retired on board their shipping.
Maryland, one of the original thirteen states, is very irregular in its form,
lying between 38° and 39° 44' N. lat., and between 75° 10' and 79° 20' W.
long. It is bounded north by Pennsylvania, east by Delaware and the Atlan
tic, south and west by Virginia. The state is divided by Chesapeake Bay
into two sections, called the Eastern and Western Shore. These two divis
ions, exclusive of the bay, contain nearly 6,000,000 of acres, of which about
2,800,000 are improved. The western shore is about double the area of the
eastern. About 60 square miles of its original territory have been taken
off by the grant of the District of Columbia to the United States. The
Eastern Shore of Maryland is generally of a low and sandy surface, and
though not remarkably fertile, produces fine wheat and Indian corn. The
western section of the state is more elevated and fertile, gradually rising
toward the north-west, where it is quite mountainous, being crossed by a part
of the Alleghany chain, reaching from Pennsylvania to Virginia. This part
of the state is rich in coal and iron.
" Maryland was one of the earliest among the United States to enter with
zeal upon a system of internal improvements ;. and it is believed that a por
tion of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad was the first in America used for
the purposes of ordinary travel and transportation. This state, as well as
Pennsylvania, displayed more enterprise than caution in projecting her ear
lier works of intercommunication, and involved herself in a heavy debt, par
ticularly in the construction of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and which
has never been completed beyond Cumberland (184 miles), nor yielded a re
munerating income in tolls. Maryland has loaned and expended more than
574
MARYLAND.
$15,000,000 in aid of railroads and canals, which are now likely to become
richly remunerative."
The constitution of Maryland has been twice revised since the American
revolution — in 1833 and 1851. The governor is now elected by the people
for four years. The senate consists of 22 members, elected for four, and the
house of representatives for two years. The state is divided into three dis
tricts, from which the governor must be chosen in rotation. Maryland is di
vided into eight counties. Population, in 1790, 341,548; in 1840,470,019;
in 1850, 583,034 ; of which number, 79,077 were free colored, and 90,368
were slaves.
Battle Monument Square, Baltimore, north view.
The Battle Monument appears in front; the building next on the right is Barnum's City Hotel; the
Gilmore House and part of the Court House are also shown.
BALTIMORE, one of the first cities in the United States in population and
commercial importance, is situated on the north side of a bay formed by the
Patapsco river, about 12 miles from its entrance into Chesapeake Bay, and
about 200 miles from the ocean by ship channel. It lies 38 miles N. E.
from Washington, 98 from Philadelphia, and 28 N. from Annapolis. The
city has an area, over which it is compactly built, of about two miles east
and west, and a mile and a half north and south. It is admirably situated,
both for foreign and internal trade, having a good harbor, being in a central
MARYLAND. 575
position in regard to the Atlantic states, and having direct communication
with the Great West by the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. The ground on
which the city is built is uneven, having several gentle elevations, which give
it a fine drainage and commanding sites for public and private edifices. The
streets are laid out with much regularity, and cross each other at right an
gles ; of these, Baltimore street is the principal, being 82 feet wide and two
miles long, running east and west through the center of the city.
Baltimore contains upward of 140 churches, or places of public worship,
many of which are elegant and costly edifices. The Catholic Cathedral, at
the corner of Cathedral and Mulberry streets, is an imposing structure, built
of granite, in the form of a cross", 190 feet long, 177 broad at the arms of
the cross, and 127 high from the floor to the top of the cross that surmounts
the dome. It has the largest organ in the United States, with 6,000 pipes
and 36 stops. It is ornamented with two paintings, one, " The Descent from
the Cross," was presented by Louis XVI ; the other, " St. Louis burying his
officers and soldiers slain before Tunis," was presented by Charles X, of
France. The city is also well provided with educational, literary and benev
olent institutions. The University of Maryland was incorporated in 1812,
and has a faculty of arts and sciences, of physic, of theology and law. The
Loyola College has twenty professors and instructors. The Maryland Col
lege of Pharmacy was incorporated in 1841. The Washington Medical
College was founded in 1827. St. Mary's College, an esteemed Catholic in
stitution, was founded in 1799. McKimm's free school is a prosperous in
stitution under the control of the Society of Friends. The Maryland Hos
pital for the insane is on an eminence in the western part of the city. The
" Mount Hope Hospital," and the " Baltimore Infirmary," are under the con
trol of the Sisters of Charity. In the western part of the city is the " Aged
Widow's Home." There are also two orphan asylums and a house of Refuge.
The Peabody Institute was founded in 1857, by a munificent gift of $300,-
000 from George Peabody, a London banker of American birth. The
scheme embraces, 1. An extensive free library. 2. Public lectures, and
distribution of prizes to pupils of the high schools. 3. An academy of
music. 4. A gallery of art. 5. Rooms for the Maryland Historical Society.
Baltimore has superior advantages for manufacturing purposes. Jones'
Falls and Patapsco River afford immense water power, which is extensively
employed for flouring mills. Numerous cotton and other mills are in opera
tion, and one of the largest establishments in the United States is located
here. The city is well supplied with wholesome water from the public
fountains, and from the elevated part of Jones' Falls, from whence water is
obtained, and conducted by pipes through the city. The industrial employ
ments of the citizens are varied and extensive. The population of Balti
more, in 1790, was 13,530; in 1850, 169,054; and in 1860, 218,612.
Baltimore, from the prominence of its monuments, is sometimes called the
" Monumental City.'" The Battle Monument, designed by M. Godefroy,
stands in Calvert street, near Fayette street, upon what was once the site of the
" old court house," now Monument Square. It has an Egyptian base, which
is surmounted by a column representing a fasces, upon the bands of which
are placed in bronze letters, the names of those who fell at the battle of
North Point. On each angle of the base are griffins, and the lower part of
the column is ornamented with basso relievos, representing part of the oc
currences of the 12th of Sept., 1814 ; the whole being crowned by a statue
of the city, with the eagle at her side, holding a laurel wreath suspended in
576 MARYLAND.
her uplifted hand. The entire hight of the monument is 52 feet, 2 inches.
The following is on the south side, at the base of the column :
Battle of North Point, 12th September, A. D. 1814, and of the Independence of the
United States, the thirty-ninth.
On the north side.— Bombardment of Fort McHenry, 12th September, A. D. 1814 j and of
the Independence of the United States, the thirty-ninth.
The names on the column are the following, viz : James Lowry Donald
son, adjutant of 27th regiment, Gregorius Andre, lieutenant 1st rifle battal
ion, Levi Clagett, 3d lieutenant of Nicholson's Artillerists.
John Clemm,
S. Haubert,
T. Wallace,
E. Harriot,
J. Armstrong,
Benjn. Bond,
Cecelius Belt,
H. G. McComas,
John C. Boyd,
Daniel Wells, jr.,
Benjn. Neal,
D. Howard,
A. Randall,
J. Gregg,
A. Maas,
T. V. Beaston,
John Jepson,
J. M. Harriot, of John,
Wm. Ways,
J. Richardson,
Clement Cox,
John Garrett,
Wm. HcClellan,
M. Desk,
John R. Cox,
B. Reynolds,
Uriah Prosser,
R. R. Cooksey,
J. Evans,
G. Jenkins,
W. Alexander,
T. Burneston,
P. Bayard,
C. Fallier,
J. Dunn,
J. Craig.
The Armistead monument is erected in the gothic niche of the building
in the rear of the city spring, a cool, sequestered spot about 500 feet north of
the Battle Monument. It has the following inscription :
Col. GEORGE ARMISTEAD, in honor of whom this monument is erected, was the gallant de
fender of Fort Mcllenry during the bombardment of the British fleet on the 13th Septem
ber, 1814. He died universally esteemed and regretted, on the 25th of April, 1818, aged 39
years.
The Washington monument, at the intersection of Charles and Monument
streets, is a most imposing structure of white marble. It is 176J feet in
hight, on a base 50 feet square and 20 feet high, and is surmounted by a co
lossal statue of Washington, 16 feet high. As the monument stands on an
eminence 100 feet above tide, the total elevation of the entire structure
above the level of the river, is 312J feet. The statue on the summit, repre
senting Washington resigning his commission, weighs 16 tuns, and cost
$9,000. It was sculptured by Signior Andre Causia, and was placed there
Oct. 19, 1829. The whole monument, including the statue, was designed by
Robert Mills, architect, and cost $200,000. It is ascended by a spiral stair
case from within, and from its summit a beautiful and varied prospect is ob
tained. There are four gates to the inclosure: the inscription over each of
the four doors is as follows :
" To GEORGE WASHINGTON, BY THE STATE OP MARYLAND." On the sides of the base are the
following inscriptions : on the south, "Born 22d of Feb., 1732. Died 14th Dec., 1799." On
the East, " Commander-in-chief of the American Army, 15th June, 1775. Commission resigned
at Annapolis 23d Z>ec.,l783." ' On the West, "President of the United States, 4th March, 1789.
Retired to Mt. Vernon, 4th March, 1797."
In 1662, 28 years after the founding of St. Mary's, Charles Gorsuch, a member
of the Society of Friends took up and patented 50 acres of land on Whetstone
Point, the first land patented within the present limits of Baltimore. Its extremity
is occupied by the bastions of Fort McHenry, and its long and level plain has been
used for a chief review ground for Baltimore militia. In 1663, the land on either
side of Hartford Run, was taken up under the name of " Mountenay's Neck," a
title which became one of great notoriety, owing to the perilous suits in eject
ment, that subsequently arose among the owners and claimants of the adjoining
property.
Other patentees followed Gorsuch and Mountenay, and the cultivation of this
MARYLAND.
577
part of Baltimore county went on increasing. In 1628, David Jones erected his
homestead near the junction of the stream (which now bears his name), and tide
water, and has, by some, been considered as the first settler. Charles Carroll, the
agent'of the lord proprietary, became a land holder in the neighborhood. In 1711,
he sold 31 acres of his portion of " Cole's Harbor," to Jonathan Hanson, whose
South view of Washington Monument, Baltimore.
memory was preserved in the old building at the corner of Holliday and Bath-
streets," which was once a mill. " Cole's Harbor" was the tract of land on which
the town of Baltimore was originally laid out, containing about 550 acres, and di
vided into two equal parts by the rapid current of Jones' Falls. That part of the
city now occupied bv Howard, Rutaw, and Paca-streets, and the buildings thereon,
was sold by the original patentee in 1688. for 5,000 pounds of tobacco, to George
578 MARYLAND.
Eager, the maternal grandfather of Col. John E. Howard, of revolutionary
memory.
In 1726, according to the returns of the surveyor of Cole's Harbor, the present
site of the city contained, besides the mill above mentioned, of two dwellings with
out houses, tobacco houses, and other appurtenances of the farm houses of that pe
riod. The land is described as middling in quality, and but one half cleared.
The place had as yet received no name, and the ships which traded with the sur
rounding country never, at this time, ascended the Patapsco; but, lying at anchor
at North Point, received their cargoes from the rivers which emptied into the bay
in the vicinity. When the head of tide began to attract attention as the proper
site for a fair and promising town, it was upon the southern, and not the north
western branch, that it was" proposed to be placed. This tract was owned by Mr.
John Moale, who supposed there were iron mines on his territory ; and when he
learned that the attempt was about to be made to put a town upon his property, he
hastened to Annapolis, which by this time had become the seat of government, and
by his influence as a member of the legislature defeated the plan.
Excluded from the level land, those persons interested in forming a new town
were obliged from necessity to seek the site of Baltimore, under the hills and amid
the marshes of the north-western branch of the river; and accordingly an act of
the legislature was passed, in 1729, authorizing the "erection of a town on the
north side of Patapsco, in Baltimore county, and for laying out in lots sixty acres
of land, in and about the place where one John Fleming now lives." Fleming was
a tenant of Mr. Carroll, and resided on the east side of South Charles-street, 125
paces from the corner of Market-street. This sixty acres of land were purchased
of Charles and Daniel Carroll, at the rate of forty shillings an acre, which the com
missioners had the privilege of paying for in tobacco, at the rate of a penny a
pound. The town received its name from Lord Baltimore, the proprietary, who
m his turn had borrowed his from a seaport so called, in the county of Cork, in
Ireland.
Long-street and Calvert-street were the principal streets in the town. The first
is now Baltimore-street, and the latter retains its original name. About the pe
riod of Braddock's defeat, for security against the enemy the town was surrounded
by a board fence, with two gates for carriages and one for foot passengers. It
stood, it is said, for four or five years, when " it became a prey to the wants of the
needy inhabitants." In 1752 Mr. John Moale took a kind of view or plan of the
town; according to this representation there were at that time twenty-five houses,
four of which were of brick. The brig Philip and the sloop Baltimore, represented
in Moale' s view, were the only sea-vessels then belonging to the town. Learning
does not appear to have been forgotten: for at this period (1752), the Maryland
Gazette, published at Annapolis, contains an advertisement for a schoolmaster of
" a good sober character, who understands teaching English, writing and arithme
tic,' and who, it is added, "will meet with very good encouragement from the in
habitants of Baltimore town, if well recommended."
The commissioners, who had the management of the town affairs, were author
ized to hold two annual fairs, on the first Thursday of May and October. This the
inhabitants were not slow to avail themselves of, as occasions of barter and for
merry-making; and during its continuance the goers and comers were privileged
from arrest on civil process in these gatherings. These fairs continued until the
revolution, when, "pursuant to the recommendation of congress, the committee of
observation prohibited the fair then approaching, by desiring the inhabitants to
abstain from such assemblages, as well as from horse-racing, cock-fighting," etc.
The following notice of Baltimore is from Eddis' Letters from America,
published in London, 1792. Mr. Eddis was the surveyor of customs, etc.,
at Annapolis, and in his letters gives a variety of occurrences, from 1769 to
to 1777 inclusive:
u Within these few years some scattered cottages were only to be found on this
spot, occupied by obscure store-keepers, merely for the supply of the adjacent plant
ations. But the peculiar advantages it possesses with respect to the trade of the
frontier counties of Virginia, Pennsylvania and Maryland, so strongly impressed
MARYLAND. 579
the mind of Mr. John Stephenson, an Irish gentleman, who had settled in the vi
cinity, in a medical capacity, that he first conceived the important project of ren
dering this port the grand emporium of Maryland commerce. He accordingly
applied himself with assiduity to the completion of this plan. The neighboring
country being fertile, well settled and abounding in grain, Mr. S. contracted for
considerable quantities of wheat; he freighted and consigned them to a corre
spondent in his native country; the cargoes sold to a great advantage, and returns
were made equally beneficial. The commencement of a trade so lucrative to the first
adventures, soon became an object of universal attention. Persons of a commer
cial and enterprising spirit emigrated from all quarters to this new and promising
scene of industry. Wharves were constructed, elegant and convenient habitations
were rapidly erected, marshes were drained, spacious fields were occupied for the
purposes of general utility; and within forty years from its first commencement,
Baltimore became not only the most wealthy and populous town in the province, but
inferior to few on this continent, either in size, number of inhabitants, or the ad
vantages arising from a well-conducted and universal commercial connection."
During the revolution the spirit of enterprise began to show itself in Baltimore:
capital gradually centered here, privateers were fitted out with success, and as
thriving a trade was kejri up, particularly with the West Indies, as the circum
stances would allow. Soon after the peace of 1783, a number of German mer
chants settled in Baltimore, and created a market here for tobacco. A trade was
opened with Holland : flour was exported to the West Indies, and wheat was sent
in considerable quantities to Spain and Portugal. Indian corn became an article
of commerce, being brought to Baltimore from the various rivers of the bay in the
country "small craft," and thence sent abroad. The troubles of other countries
contributed to the advancement of Baltimore in wealth and population. Many of
the inhabitants of St. Domingo flocked to Baltimore during the period of the French
revolution, and brought, much capital with them. The wars in Europe which fol
lowed, threw much of the carrying trade into the hands of the people of the United
States, among whom those of Baltimore obtained their full proportion. The exten
sive inland navigation of Chesapeake Bay had excited at an early period an emu
lation in the construction of vessels for this purpose, until the art of building swift
sailing schooners was carried to great perfection. These vessels, now called
" Baltimore Clippers" were found perfectly suited to the West India, and even
the European trade, and became, in the hands of intelligent merchants, the in
struments of extraordinary enterprise. "The eluding of a blockade and a quick
voyage, turned the cheapest produce sent from Baltimore into gold ; and the ' Bal
timore Clipper' was always the midas that effected the transmutation."*
The site of Baltimore abounded with springs : many of these have disap
peared before the progress of improvement. In addition to the artificial sup
ply afforded by the water-works, these springs furnish the inhabitants with
a sweet and good water of a pleasant temperature, at all seasons of the year.
The City Spring, near the Battle Monument, is composed of several springs
collected together, which anciently flowed from beneath the brow of the prec
ipice that overhung Jones' Falls, when the latter stream retained its original
direction, and passed over what is now Calvert-street, between Saratoga and
Pleasant-streets. Vessels, it is stated, of considerable burden, were built and
launched on tide-water at the place now occupied by the City Spring. When
Calvert-street was graded, in 1810, the lot now occupied by this spring was
purchased, and, under the direction of Peter Hoffman and Jesse Hollings-
worth, the present appropriate buildings were erected, and the grounds about
them improved.
The following account of the Batik of North Point, and the Bombardment
*Many of the historical items respecting Baltimore were taken from a small work enti
tled " Picture of Baltimore," published by F. Lucas, about the year 1832.
37
580 MARYLAND.
of Fort McHenry, in September, 1814, is from M'Sherry's History of Mary
land :
Having triumphantly despoiled the capital of the Union, Gen. Ross turned his eyes upon
the flourishing and wealthy city of Baltimore. Anticipating his design, the governor had
ordered the militia of the state to hold themselves in readiness, and large bodies were
marched to the city for its defense. About seven hundred regulars, several volunteer and
militia companies, from Pennsylvania and Virginia, increased their strength to about fif
teen thousand men. They were commanded by Gen. Samuel Smith, who had distinguished
himself in the revolution by his gallant defense of Fort Mifflin. One division of the army
was confided to Gen. Winder, the other to Gen. Strieker. As soon as it was announced
that the British were approaching the city, the militia, irritated by the disaster at Bladens-
burg, and the sacking of Washington, flocked in from all quarters, in such numbers that
neither arms, ammunition nor provisions could be supplied them, and the services of many
were necessarily declined. As it was expected that the enemy would land and attack the
town from the east, heavy batteries were erected on the high grounds in that direction, and
an entrenchment thrown up, in which the main body of the militia were posted. On the
water side, the city was defended by Fort McHenry, garrisoned by a thousand men under
Major Armistead ; two small batteries Avere erected on the south side, while the channel
was obstructed by a number of sunken vessels.
On the llth of September, 1814, the British fleet, numbering fifty sail, entered the mouth
of the Patapsco ; and on the twelfth, a force of five thousand men was landed at North
Point, fourteen miles from Baltimore. Gen. Strieker was ordered forward with three thou
sand two hundred men, to oppose their progress. His force was composed of the fifth reg
iment, under Col. Sterritt ; the sixth, Col. McDonald ; the twenty-seventh, Lieut. Col.
Long ; the thirty-ninth, Col. Fowler ; the fifty-first, Col. Amey ; one hundred and fifty
riflemen, under Capt. Dyer ; one hundred and forty cavalry, under Lieut. Col. Biays, and
the Union artillery with six field-pieces. In the regiments of this brigade were incorpor
ated Spangler's York, Met/gar's Hanover, Dixon's Marietta, and Quantril's Hagerstown
uniformed volunteers. He took a position about eight miles from the city, his right rest
ing on Bear creek and his left covered by a marsh ; the fifth and twenty-seventh regiments
formed the first line ; the fifty- first was posted three hundred yards in the rear of the fifth,
and the thirty-ninth in rear of the twenty-seventh ; the sixth was held in reserve. The ar
tillery, six four-pounders, was planted in the center on the main road, and a corps of rifle
men pushed in advance as skirmishers. The rifles soon fell in with the van of the enemy,
and a sharp skirmish ensued, in which the British commander-in-chief, Gen. Ross, was
killed Col. Brooke, the second in command, still continued to advance, and, at half past
three, the action commenced with the main body by a heavy cannonade. Gen. Strieker or
dered his artillery to cease, until the enemy should get within close cannister range ; and
brought up the thirty-ninth on the left of the twenty-seventh, while the fifty-first was or
dered to form at right angles with the line, resting its right near the left of the thirty-ninth.
The fifty-first, in attempting to execute this order, fell into confusion, which, however,
was soon remedied. The enemy now advanced upon the twenty-seventh and thirty-ninth,
and the action became general. The fifty-first, having imperfectly recovered from its con
fusion, failed to keep its ground.; and, having delivered a scattering fire, broke in disorder.
Its retreat threw the second baitalion of the thirty-ninth into some confusion ; but the
Avhole line, undismayed by the desertion of the fifty -first, maintained its ground with the
greatest firmness — pouring in a destructive fire upon the advancing columns of the enemy.
The artillery reopened with terrible effect upon their left, which was opposed to the fifth,
while that gallant regiment proudly sustained the laurels it had won at Bladensburg. This
close and hot fire was kept up without intermission for nearly an hour, in the face of a foe
more than treble their numbers ; for the American line, reduced by the desertion of the
fifty-first, and unaided by the sixth in reserve, numbered only fourteen hundred men. Their
volleys were deadly, for they fired not only by order, but each man at his mark, and the
front ranks of the enemy were frequently observed throwing themselves upon the ground
to avoid its unerring destruction.
Finding that his force, uncovered on its left flank, was no longer able to make head
against the superior strength of the enemy, and having accomplished the main object of his
detachment, by the severe check he had given them, Gen. Strieker ordered his line to re
tire to the position of the sixth, his reserve regiment. This was accomplished in good or
der ; but the fatigued condition of the troops who had been in action, and the exposed po
sition which he occupied, determined the general to fall back still nearer to the city. The
enemy, crippled by the severe contest, did not attempt pursuit ; and the brigade, feeling
that it had gathered the benefits of a victory, assumed its position near the lines, panting
for another struggle with the invader. Although the American loss was heavy, it bore no
comparison to that of the enemy. Adjutant James Lowry Donaldson, a member of the
MARYLAND.
581
legislatAire, fell in the hottest of the conflict. Lieut. Andre was killed. Capt. Quantril, of
Hagerstown, Capt. Stewart, Major Moore, Lieut. Reese, Joseph R. Brookes and Ensign
Kirby were wounded. Major Heath was wounded, and had two horses killed under him.
The American loss was twenty-four killed, one hundred and thirty-nine wounded, and fifty
prisoners — a total of two hundred and thirteen. The loss of the enemy was nearly twice a*s
great ; and among their killed was their leader, Gen. Ross, who, in conjunction with the
notorious Cockburn, was the destroyer of the capital, and who had boasted that he would
take up his winter quarters in Baltimore.
On the morning of the 13th of September, the British made their appearance within two
miles of the entrenchments, on the Philadelphia road, as if endeavoring to gain the flank
of the American position ; but, baffled by the skillful maneuvers of Gen. Smith, after throw
ing forward a reconnoisance and threatening the lines in front, they retired toward their
former position, deterred from the attempt by the strength of the works.
Having thus failed to take the city by land, the enemy hoped that an attack by water
would be more successful, and on the evening of the 13th, the fleet began to bombard the
fort, its main defense. The garrison
was composed of three companies of
United States' artillery, and three vol
unteer city companies, under Capt.
Berry, Lieut. Pennington arid Capt.
Nicholson, besides six hundred infan
try — in all about one thousand men,
under Col. Armistead. For a time
the brave garrison were compelled to
receive the fire of the fleet in silence,
anchored, as it was, two miles from
the fort, and beyond the reach of its
guns. At length, however — some con
fusion being created in the south-west
bu-tion by the bursting of a bomb —
several vessels were brought within
FORT McHENRY. range to follow up the supposed ad
vantage ; but the batteries immediate
ly opened upon them with such effect that they were driven back to their former position.
At this safe distance they poured a continuous storm of shells upon the gallant defenders
of the fort, who held their posts in stern silence, ready to repulse any nearer approach.
During the night, several rocket vessels and barges, with fourteen hundred men, supplied
with scaling ladders, passed silently by the fort and entered the Patapsco. Little dreaming
of the resistance of the six and ten-gun batteries, the foe already reveled in anticipation
in the plunder of the captured city, when suddenly, as they drew opposite the six-gun bat
tery, Lieut. Webster, its commander, opened upon them with terrible effect. The fort and
the ten-gun battery also poured in their fire, and for two hours a furious cannonade was
kept up, while the heavens were lighted up with the fiery courses of the bombs from the fleet
and barges. The havoc was dreadful. One of the barges was sunk, and the cries of the
wounded and drowning could be plainly heard upon the shore. The rest, in the utmost
confusion, and having suffered a heavy loss, retreated precipitately to the fleet.
Thus baffled by land and water, Admiral Cockburn and Col. Brooke determined to aban
don the expedition ; the troops were embarked on the 15th, and, on the 16th, the hostile
fleet dropped down the Chesapeake, leaving the liberated city filled with joy at her triumph
ant preservation, mingled with sorrow for the gallant sons who had died to defend her.
Admiral Cockburn continued his exploits on the bay shore, burning and destroying the
property of the defenseless citizens for some time longer, and threatening the towns on the
coast ; but he at length withdrew. The gallant defense of Baltimore saved the other At
lantic cities from attack ; its successful termination raised the spirits of the people, and re
newed their confidence in themselves — proving that, when led by brave and skillful officers,
they need not dread to encounter any equal force of their veteran enemy
The celebrated poeni, " The Star-Spangled Banner" was written by Fran
cis S. Key, a lawyer, of Baltimore, at the time of the bombardment of Fort
McHenry. He had been sent with a flag of truce, to Admiral Cockburn, to ef
fect the release of some captive friends, and was himself detained on board
of a cartel until after the attack.
582 MARYLAND.
The boat was anchored — says Judge Taney, in a letter prefixed to a vol
ume of Mr. Key's poems — in a position which enabled him and his compan
ions to see distinctly the flag of Fort McHenry on the deck of the vessel.
He remained on deck during the night, watching every shell from the mo
ment it was fired until it fell, listening with breathless interest to hear if an
explosion followed. While the bombardment continued, it was sufficient
proof that the fort had not surrendered. But it suddenly ceased, some time
before day; and as they had no communication with any of the enemy's
ships, they did not known whether the fort had surrendered, or the attack
had been abandoned. They paced the deck for the remainder of the night in
painful suspense. As soon as it was light enough to discern objects at a dis
tance, their glasses were turned to the fort, uncertain whether they should
see there the stars and stripes or the flag of the enemy. At length the light
came, and they saw that "our flag was still there." "The Star-Spangled
Banner" was commenced on the deck of the vessel in the fervor of the mo
ment when the enemy were seen retreating to their ships ; some brief notes
were written on the back of a letter; for some lines he was obliged to rely
on his memory, and the whole was finished in the boat on the way to the
shore, and written out, as it now stands, at the hotel, on the night he reached
Baltimore, and immediately after he arrived. " This outburst of the patriot
and poet's heart thrilled through the souls of his brethren; they took it
up: it swelled from millions of voices, and " The Star-Spangled Banner"
written by a son of Maryland, within sight of the battle-fields won by the
citizen soldiers of Maryland — within sound of their victorious cannon still
ringing in their ears — became the proud national anthem of the whole
Union."
THE STAR-SPANGLED BANNER.
0 ! say can you see by the dawn's early light,
What so proudly we hailed at the twilight's last gleaming —
Whose broad stripes and bright stars through the perilous fight,
O'er the ramparts we watched, were so gallantly streaming !
And the rocket's red glare, the bombs bursting in air,
Gave proof through the night that our flag was still there ;
O ! say does that star-spangled banner yet wave
O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave !
On that shore dimly seen through the mists of the deep,
Where the foe's haughty host in dread silence reposes,
What is that which the breeze, o'er the towering steep,
As it fitfully blows, now conceals, now discloses ?
Now it catches the gleam of the morning's first beam,
In full glory reflected, now shines on the stream ;
'Tis the star-spangled banner ! 0, long may it wave
O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave.
And where is that band who so vauntingly swore
That the havoc of war and the battle's confusion
A home and a country should leave us no more ?
Their blood has washed out their foul footsteps' pollution.
No refuge could save the hireling and slave
From the terror of flight or the gloom of the grave ,
And the star-spangled banner in triumph doth wave
O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave.
0 ! thus be it ever when freemen shall stand
Between their loved homes and the war's desolation,
Blest with victory and peace, may the heaven- rescued land
Praise the power that hath made and preserved us a natioi
MARYLAND. 533
Then conquer we must, when our cause it is just,
And this be our motto, " In God is our trust " —
And the star-spangled banner in triumph shall wave
O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave.
The following account of the Mob in Baltimore, in 1812, is from Grim-
shaw's United States. Gen. James M. Lingan, who was killed on the occa
sion, was^a valued officer of the revolution. He was in the battle of Long
Island, and at the surrender of Fort Washington was taken prisoner, and
shared in the sufferings of the horrid prison ship. After the war,, he was
appointed by Washington collector of the port of Georgetown. The Gen.
Lee, who suffered by this mob so severely as never to recover from it to the
day of his death, was the famous commander of Lee's legion, so celebrated
in the campaigns of the south in the revolution. He was, after the war,
governor of Virginia. To distinguish him from other eminent Virginians
of the same name, he was usually called " Light Horse Harry. r
" A few days after the declaration of war, the town of Baltimore was seriously
disturbed. Some harsh strictures on the conduct of government having appeared
in a newspaper of that city, entitled the 'Federal Republican," the resentment of
the opposite party was shown by destroying the office and press of that establish
ment. The commotion excited by this outrage had, however, in a great measure
subsided, and the transaction was brought before a criminal court for investiga
tion. But events more alarming; and tragical shortly afterward succeeded. On
the 26th of July, Mr. Hanson, the leading editor of the obnoxious journal, who
had deemed ic prudent to leave the disordered city, returned, accompanied by his
political adherents ; among whom was Gen. Henry Lee, of Alexandria. Deter
mined to recommence the paper, by first printing it in Georgetown, in the District
of Columbia, and then transmitting it to Baltimore for distribution, a house was
for this purpose occupied in Charles-street, secured against external violence, and
guarded by a party well provided for defense. On the 28th, papers were accord
ingly issued. These contained severe animadversions against the mayor, police,
and the people of Baltimore, for the depredations committed on the establishment
in the preceding month, and were generally circulated throughout the city.
In the course of the day it became known that Mr. Hanson was in the new of
fice in Charles-street, and it was early whispered that the house would be assailed.
A number of citizens who espoused his opinions, went, therefore, to the house,
and joined in its protection. Toward the evening, a crowd of boys collected;
who, after using opprobious epithets to those within, began to throw stones at the
windows; and about the same time, a person on the pavement, endeavoring to dis
suade the youths from mischief, was severely wounded by something ponderous
thrown from the house. They were cautioned from the windows to desist; but
stilj continued to assail the place with stones. Two muskets were then fired from
the upper story; charged, it was supposed, with blank cartridges, to deter them
from further violence ; immediately the crowd in the street greatly increased ; the
boys were displaced by men ; the sashes of the lower windows were broken, and
attempts made to force the door. Muskets, in quick succession, were discharged
from the house ; some military arrived to disperse the crowd ; several shots were
fired in return ; and at length a Dr. Gale was killed by a shot from the office door.
The irritation of the mob was increased. They planted a cannon against the
house, but were restrained from discharging it by the timely arrival of an addi
tional military force, and an agreement that the persons in the house would sur
render to the civil authority. Accordingly, early in the following morning, having
received assurances on which they thought themselves safe in relying, they sur
rendered, and were conducted to the county jail, contiguous to the city. The
party consisted of about twenty persons ; among whom were Gen. Lee, Gen. James
Linjran, and Mr. Hanson.
The mayor directed the sheriff to use every precaution to secure the doors of
the prison, and the commander of the troops to employ a competent force to pre-
584
MARYLAND.
serve the peace. In the evening everything bore the appearance of tranquillity ;
and the soldiers, by the consent of the magistrate, were dismissed. But, shortly
after dark, a great crowd of disorderly persons reassembled about the jail, and
manifested an intention to force it open. On being apprised of this, the mayor
hastened to the spot, and with the aid of a few other gentlemen, for a while pre
vented the execution of the design ; but they were at length overpowered by the
number and violence of the assailants. The mayor was carried away by force ;
and the turnkey compelled to open the doors. A tragedy ensued, which can not
be described ; it can be imagined only by those who are familiar with scenes of
blood. General Lingan was killed ; eleven were beaten and mangled with weapons
of every description, such as stones, bludgeons, and sledge hammers, and then
thrown as dead, into one pile outside of the door. A few of the prisoners fortu
nately escaped through the crowd : Mr. Hanson, fainting from his repeated wounds,
was carried by a gentleman (of opposite political sentiments), at the hazard of his
own life, across the adjoining river, whence he with difficulty reached the dwell
ing of a friend.
No effectual inquisition was ever made into this signal violation of the peace,
nor punishment inflicted on the guilty. The leaders, on both sides, underwent
trials: but, owing to the inflammation of public feeling, they were acquitted."
The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, 379 miles in length, extending from
the waters of the Chesapeake, at Baltimore, to those of the Ohio, at Wheel
ing, is one of the greatest
works of engineering skill
on the continent. This im
portant undertaking owes its
origin to the far-reaching sa
gacity of Philip E. Thomas,
a Quaker merchant of Balti
more, who lived to see its
completion, although nearly
thirty years had elapsed from
the time of its commence
ment. At that period, Bal
timore city was worth but
$25,000,000. yet it unhesita
tingly embarked in an enter
prise which cost 31,000,000.
The first stone was laid on
the 4th of July, 1828, by
the venerable Charles Car
roll, of Carrollton, who pro
nounced it, next to signing
the declaration of indepen
dence, the most important
act of his life.
TKAY RUN VIADUCT, B. & 0. RAILROAD.
This elegant structure is of cast iron, 600 feet in length, and
150 feet above the level of the stream.
" Thi<« wan af <i vprv parlv
. A ,. ** *? , . , ^ / -f
period in the history of rail
ways ; and during the progress of the work, from year to year, old theories were
exploded and new principles introduced, increasing in boldness and originality as
it advanced. Its annual reports went forth as text books; its workshops were
practical lecture rooms, and to have worthily graduated in this school, is an hon
orable passport to scientific service in any part of the world. In its struggles
with unparalleled difficulties — financial, physical, legislative and legal — the gallant
little state of Maryland found men equal to each emerger^j as it arose, and the
MARYLAND. 585
development of so much talent and high character in various departments, should
not be esteemed the smallest benefit which the country has derived from this great
enterprise."
"The line of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, traversing the Alleghanies, has
already become somewhat classic ground. The vicinity of Harper's Ferry, old
Fort Frederick, Cumberland, and other portions along the Potomac River, have
long been known to the world for their imposing scenery, as well as for their
historical interest. It is beyond Cumberland, however, that the grandest and most
effective views on this route are presented. The Piedmont grade; Oakland, with
its inviting summer atmosphere ; Valley River Falls ; the Monongahela, and other
attractive points, inspire wonder in all who witness them.
Nor should the grand scientific features of the Baltimore and Ohio Road be
overlooked. To say nothing of its unique and most successfully planned grades
(by which an elevation of nearly three thousand feet above tide is reached), there
are its numerous splendid bridges of iron, and brick, and stone; its massive build
ings of all kinds ; its solidly arched tunnels, and numerous other features, devel
oping the greatest skill and ingenuity upon the part of the strong minds which
wrought them. The longest finished tunnel in America is Kingwood Tunnel, 261
miles from Baltimore; it is four fifths of a mile in length, and cost more than a
million of dollars !
Our engraving of ' Tray Run Viaduct,' " says Leslie's Pictorial, from which this
is copied, "is from an accurate and faithful drawing, made upon the spot, by Mr.
D. C. Hitchcock, our artist, who has also been engaged in taking numerous views
on this attractive route for the London Illustrated News. Appropriate to our no
tice of the Tray Run Viaduct, we may quote the following paragraphs from the
' Book of the Great Railway Celebration of 1857,' published by the Appletons :
Cheat River is a rapid mountain stream, of a dark coffee colored water, which is sup
posed to take its hue from the forests of laurel, hemlock and black spruce in which it has
its rise. Our road crossed the stream at the foot of Cranberry grade by a viaduct. This
is composed of two noble spans of iron, roofed in on abutments, and a pier of solid free
stone taken from a neighboring quarry. Arrived at this point, we fairly entered the ' Cheat
River valley,' which presents by far the grandest and most boldly picturesque scenery to be
found on the line of this road, if indeed it is not the finest series of railroad views on our
continent. The European travelers in our party were as much enraptured by it as were
those of us who have never visited the mountains, lakes and glens of Scotia or Switzer
land. For several miles, we ran along the steep mountain side, clinging, as it were, to the
gigantic cliffs, our cars like great cages suspended — though upon the safest and most solid
of beds — midway, as it were, between heaven and earth. At one moment the view was
confined to our immediate locality, hemmed in on every side, as we were, by the towering
mountain spurs. At the next, a slight curve in the road opened to view fine stretches of
the deep valley, with the dark river flowing along its bottom, and glorious views of the for
est-covered slopes descending from the peaks to the water's edge. Amazed at the grand
eur of the ever-varying scenery of this region, a French gentleman is said to have ex
claimed in ecstacy, ' Magni/ique! Zere is nossing likezisin France!1 The engineering dif
ficulties, overcome in the part of the road within the first few miles west of Cheat River
bridge, must have been appalling , but for us the rough places had been made smooth as
the prairie levels. After crossing this river itself, at Rowlesburg, the next point was to as
cend along its banks the ' Cheat River hill.' The ravine of Kyer's run, a mile from the
bridge, 76 feet deep, was crossed by a solid embankment. Then, after bold cutting along
the steep, rocky hill side, we reached Buckeye hollow, which is 108 feet below the road level,
and finally came to Tray run, which we crossed at a hight of 150 feet above its original
bed by a splendid viaduct, 600 feet long, founded on a massive base of masonry piled upon
the solid rock below. These viaducts are of iron — designed by Mr. Albert Fink, one of
Mr. Latrobe's assistants — and are exceedingly graceful, as well as very substantial struc
tures. When we reached the west end of the great Tray run viaduct, the cars halted, and
the company alighted for a better view of the works. A walk of a few feet brought us to
the brow of the precipice overlooking the river, nearly 300 feet below. The view from this spot,
both of the scenery and the grand structure which so splendidly spanned the immense mount
ain ravine, was truly inspiring. From our great elevation the stream appeared to be almost
beneath our feet, an illusion promptly dispelled when the strongest and longest armed
among us failed to throw a stone far enough to drop in its bed. With the entire train full
of guests, the band also, alighted here, and taking position near the cliff, struck up the pop
ular air of ' Love Not,' in sweet harmony with the emotions inspired by the scene. The
586 MARYLAND.
sun had just retired behind the distant mountain top at the head of the valley, casting a
lengthened shadow over the place, and leaving us quite alone in the grand and stupendous
solitude, all things combining to impress us deeply with the influence of the solemn poetry
of nature, whose ' sanctum sanctorum ' we seemed to have invaded. The shrill note of the
stern whistle recalled us to the realities of our position, and we reluctantly resumed our
seats, to be whirled along on our westward journey.
The following inscriptions are from a work entitled " Memoirs of the Dead,
and Tomb's Remembrancer," published in Baltimore, 1806 :
To the memory of PATRICK ALLISON, Doctor of Theology, founder and first Pastor of the
church of the Presbyterians in the city of Baltimore, who died on the 21st day of Aug..
1802, aged 62 years. P.
In memory of the Rev. BENTON RIGGIN, who fell a victim to the epidemic in Sept., 1799]
in the 40th year of his age, and 12th of his ministry. He was an agreeable companion,
useful and acceptable in the ministry, and died in full assurance of that rest that remains
for the people of God.
With songs let us follow his flight,
And mount with his spirit above,
Escaped to the mansions of light,
And lodg'd in the Eden above. M.
Here lies what was mortal of JOSEPH RAWLINS, who fell asleep on the 31st day of Jan.,
1795, in the 64th year of his age, and rests beneath this stone, in full assurance of being
awakened again at the last day, by the fixed decree and power of God, to appear before his
dread tribunal, and from a well grounded faith in the all-sufficient merits of Jesus Christ,
expects pardon for his sins, and to have his vile body changed and made like the glorious
body of Christ, and to be admitted into his heavenly mansions, there to dwell in his pres
ence in the fullness of bliss and happiness to all eternity. E.
Sacred to the memory of WILLIAM HAWKINS WOOD, and ANNA MARIA WOOD, who de
parted this life Nov. 3, 1795, and Nov. 4, 1802. William aged 5 months, and Anna Maria
11 months and 16 days.
Bold infidelity, canst thou reply,
Beneath this stone two infant's ashes lie,
Say, are they saved or lost?
If death's by sin, they sin'd because they're here,
If Heaven's by works, in heaven they can't appear.
Reason, ah how depraved ! the bible's truth revere, the knot's untied,
They died, for Adam sin'd ; they reign'd in life, for Jesus died. M.
The first two inscriptions below are from tablets within the first Presby
terian Church ; those that follow are from monuments in the Green Mount
Cemetery :
To the memory of JAMES INGLISH, second minister of this church, who suddenly de
parted this life on Sunday the 15th of Aug., 1819, aged 42 years. This Congregation in re
spectful manifestation of their affection have inscribed this tablet
To the memory of WILLIAM NEVINS, D.D., third minister of this church, who departed
this Life after a lingering illness on Monday the 14th of Sept., 1835, in the 39th year of his
age. In grateful memory of his ministry, and of their affectionate remembrance, this Con
gregation have placed this Tablet.
Com. JOHN D. DANIELS, Columbian navy, born Dec. 19, 1783, died Oct. 29, 1855. Requi-
escat in pace. Amen.
In memory of Gen. WM. H. WINDER, born Feb. 18, 1775, died May 24, 1824. A candid
ear and a guileless tongue, his motto and his character.
JAMES 0. LAW, born March 14th, 1809, died of ship fever in the service of the destitute,
June 6, 1847. — Commissioned Capt. Independent Grays, March, 1837, mayor of Baltimore,
major of the 53d Regiment M. V. As a magistrate, just and firm, as a soldier, gallant and
beloved. — Commissioned major 52d Regiment, Sept., 1842. He lived a cherished citizen.
His death illustrated the active benevolence which had adorned his life. — The officers and
men of his regiment have erected this monument to his memory.
MARYLAND
587
FEBGUSON MONUMENT, BALTIMORE.
WM. BOYD FERGUSON, Pres
ident of the Howard Association
of Norfolk, Va.
Greater love hath no man than
that he lay down his life for his
friends.
His grave is consecrated by
the widow's prayer, the orphan's
tear, the blessing of the deso
late.
His ministry of mercy ceased
only when " God's finger touched
him and he slept."
Erected by the Maryland Ca
dets, the first Baltimore Hose
company, and other Baltimore-
ans, in memory of a citizen who
died in his effort to stay the
pestilence that desolated Nor
folk, 1855.
In memory of WILLIAM STUART, born
in Baltimore, June 12, A. D. 1780,
died Feb. 12, 1830. Colonel in the ar
my of the U. S. in the war of 1812 ;
Delegate from Baltimore in the Legis
lature of Maryland in 1823 ; member
of the Executive Council of the State in 1827 j and mayor of his native city in 1831. In
all the relations of domestic life, he was exemplary, and he possessed the affectionate es
teem of all classes of his fellow citizens.
ANNAPOLIS, the capit
al of the state of Mary
land, is a city and port
of entry on the west side
of Severn River, three
miles from its entrance
into Chesapeake Bay, 25
miles from Baltimore, and
44 E. N. E. of Wash
ington. It is connected
with the Baltimore and
Washington Railroad by
the Annapolis and Elk-
ridge Railroad, which is
21 miles long. The town
is regularly laid out ; its
streets diverging from the
state house and the Epis
copal Church, as from
two centers. Popula
tion, about 3.000. An
napolis was founded about
1649. The settlement
SOUTH-EASTERN VIEW OF THE STATE HOUSE, ANNAPOLIS.
at first was called Providence ; afterward, Ann Arundeltown j and lastly,
588 MARYLAND.
having obtained a city charter, in 1708, it received the name of Annapolis
(i. e., the city of Ann), in honor of Queen Anne, the reigning monarch of
England. The state house is a venerable and substantial building, and is
distinguished as the building where the American congress held some of their
sessions during the revolutionary war, and the place where, in the senate
chamber, Washington resigned his commission. These apartments have
been preserved unaltered.
Annapolis was first settled by a company of Puritans from Virginia, who
were obliged to leave that province on account of the severe laws passed
against them, and the persecutions they endured. They came into Mary
land, where they were promised the enjoyment of religious freedom. In or
about the year 1649, they commenced a settlement at Greenberry's Point, a
peninsula two miles east from the state house, then known as Town Neck.
These emigrants were about 100 in number; their bounds were soon ex
tended, and the entire settlement received the name of Providence. In 1650,
they sent two burgesses to the general assembly at St. Mary's. At this as
sembly an act was passed, erecting Providence into a county, and the name
given it was Ann Arundel, that being the maiden name of Lady Baltimore.
After Cromwell obtained the sovereign power in England, collisions took
place between the Puritans and Gov. Stone, who acted under the authority
of Lord Baltimore. Gov. Stone, determining to enforce his claims by a resort
to arms, assembled his followers on board 11 or 12 vessels, small and great,
and appeared in the Severn, at Providence. One Heamans, the master of a
ship called the Golden Lyon, at this time lying at anchor in the river, was
induced to offer his services to the Puritans. The following account of the
conflict which ensued is from Ridgely's Annals of Annapolis :
Governor Stone, with his little fleet and army, had by this time, about ' the shutting in
of the evening,' as it is said, on the 24th of March, 1654-5, (0. S.) arrived within the
outer harbor of Providence. He was now also within the range of the shot of the Golden
Lyon, from whence a gun was fired at him, in order, as is said, to bring him or some mes
senger on board. Governor Stone did not think it proper to pay any attention to this sig
nal of war, as it appeared ; but, having arrived within the mouth of the creek, which forms
the southern boundary of the peninsula on which the city of Annapolis now stands, pro
ceeded to land his men on a point of land which lies on the southern side of both the river
Severn and the before- mentioned creek, nearly opposite to and in an eastern direction from
what is called the dock or inner harbor of Annapolis, and on which point or peninsula a
small fortress, called Fort Horn, was afterward built during the American revolutionary
war. While Gov. Stone was landing his men on this point of land or peninsula, the com
mander Heamans, or Mr. Durand, thought it proper to repeat their fire upon the boats of
Gov. Stone as they were rowing to the shore. The shot thereof lighting someAvhat near to
them, the governor deemed it most prudent to send a messenger on board the Golden Lyon
to know the reason of their conduct, with directions to the messenger to inform the captain
of the ship that he (Gov. Stone) thought "the captain of the ship had been satisfied ;" to
which the captain answered — in a very blustering tone, as it appears — "satisfied with what ?
I never saw any power Gov. Stone had, to do as he hath done, but the superscription of a
letter. I must and will appear for these in a good cause." It would appear that Gov.
Stone and the captain had some explanation previous to the firing of this last gun — at least
it is fair so to presume, from the nature of the captain's reply to his message.
Gov. Stone having moved his vessels further up the creek during the night, Capt. Hea
mans, or the Puritans on shore, contrived early the next morning to place a vessel or ves
sels, " with two pieces of ordnance," at the mouth of the creek, and by that means block
aded Gov. Stone's little fleet within the same, so as to prevent them from coming out. The
governor soon after, however, on the same day, appeared with his small army, in military
parade, on a narrow neck of land — most probably that on which the remains of the before-
mentioned fort now are — near where he had landed. The captain of the ship (Heamans)
observing this, brought his guns to bear upon them, and, firing at them, killed one man,
and by that means forced them to march further oft' into the neck. In the meantime Capt.
Fuller, the Puritan commander, with his company, consisting of a hundred and twenty men,
embarked in their boats, most probably from the peninsula whereon Annapolis now stands,
MARYLAND. 539
and went up the river some distance, where they landed and marched round the head of the
creek to where Gov. Stone and his people were waiting to receive them, a distance of six
miles.
On the approach of the Puritans, the sentry of the people of St. Mary's, or Marylanders,
fired his alarm-gun, when the men of Gov. Stone immediately appeared in order. Capt.
Fuller, still expecting that Gov. Stone might possibly give a reason for their coming, com
manded his men, upon pain of death, not to shoot a gun, or give the first onset — setting
up the standard of the commonwealth of England, against which the enemy shot five or six
guns, and killed one man in the front, before a shot was made by the other.
Then the word was given, " In the name of God fall on ; God is our strength'1 — that was
the word for Providence ; the Marylander's word was, "Hey for Saint Maries."
The charge was fierce and sharp for the time ; but, through the glorious presence of the
Lord of Hosts, manifested in and toward his poor oppressed people, the enemy could not
endure, but gave back, ai\d were so effectually charged home, that they were all routed —
turned their backs, threw down their arms, and begged mercy. After the first volley of
shot, a small company of the enemy, from behind a great fallen tree, galled us and wounded
divers of our men, but were soon beaten off. Of the whole company of the Marylanders,
there escaped only four or five, who run away out of the army to carry news to their con
federates. Gov. Stone, Col. Price, Capt. Gerrard, Capt. Lewis, Capt. Kendall, Capt. Gui-
ther, Maj. Chandler, and all the rest of the counselors, officers and soldiers of the Lord
Baltimore, among whom, both commanders and soldiers, a great number being papists, were
taken, and so were all their vessels, arms, ammunition and provision ; about fifty men were
slain and wounded. We lost only two in the field, but two died since of their wounds.
God did appear wonderful in the field, and in the hearts of the people — all confessing him
to be the only worker of this victory and deliverance."
In giving the above account of the battle, the words of Mr. Leonard Strong have been
used, who, it is probable, was an eye-witness, and in the battle — he being one of Capt.
Fuller's council, at Providence.
It is alleged that the Puritans of Providence, several days after the fight, put to death
four of Gov. Stone's party. We wish it was in our power to contradict and disprove this
cold-blooded outrage, even at this late period, for the sake of humanity and the character
of the first settlers of our native city ; but the evidence seems to be too strong to admit a
doubt of its truth.
Dr. Barber says — and he appears to be entitled to full credit — that, " after the skirmish,
the governor, upon quarter given him and all his company in the field, yielded to be taken
prisoners ; but, two or three days after, the victors condemned ten to death, and executed
foure, and had executed all had not the incessant petitioning and begging of some good wo
men saved some, and the souldiers others — the governor himselfe being condemned by them,
and since beg'd by the souldiers — some being saved just as they were leading out to exe
cution."
Mrs. Stone, also, in a letter to Lord Baltimore, states that, " after quarter given, they
tried all your councellors by a councell of warre, and sentence was passed upon my husband
to be shot to death, but was after saved t>y the enemy's owne soldiers, and so the rest of
the councellors were saved by the petitions of the women, with some other friends which
they found there."
In 1694 Annapolis was constituted a town, port, and place of trade, under
the name of "Anne Arundel Town." In this year, also, the seat of govern
ment, which had been at the City of St. Mary's from the earliest formation
of the province, was transferred to this place. The records were, by Gov.
Nicholson, ordered to be placed in good strong bags, secured by cordage and
hides, with guards to protect them night and day, and thus to be delivered
to the sheriff of Anne Arundel county, at Anne Arundel Town.
''The legislature, at a session in 1696, passed an act establishing an acad
emy by the name of 'King William's School,' for the propagation of the gos
pel, and education of youth in good letters and manners." The next year,
Gov. Nicholson proposed to the house of burgesses "that his majesty, William
III, be addressed that some part of the revenue given toward furnishing arms
and ammunition for the use of the province, be laid out for the purchase of
books to be added to the books which had been presented by the king to form
a library in the porte of Annapolis ; arid that a portion of the public revenue
be appled to the enlargement thereof; and that the library should be placed
590
MARYLAND.
in the office and under the care of the commissary of the province, permitting
all persons desirous to study or read the books to have access thereto under
proper instructions." Many of the volumes thus presented by the king to
Annapolis, are now in the library of St. John's College, to which they were
removed on the burning of the state house, in 1704.
South-east view of St. John's College, Annapolis.
In 1742 an act was passed to enable Gov. Bladen, or the governor for the
time being, to purchase four acres within the fence of the city, and to build
thereon a dwelling house for the use of the governor. Materials were pro
vided, and the building was nearly finished, in a style of superior magnifi
cence, when a contention took place between the governor and the delegates,
which prevented its completion. This is now St. John's College. In 1784
the general assembly of Maryland passed an act for founding a college on the
western shore, incorporated the institution by the name of the " Visitors and
Governors of St. John's College," and granted a perpetual fund of £1,750
sterling, or nearly $9,000, annually. The legislature ceded four acres of
land — now the college green — which had been conveyed to the governor of
Maryland, repaired the unfinished building, and, in 1785, conveyed the funds
of "King William's School" to St. John's College.
The college green, in the revolutionary war, was used as the encampment
of the French army, and also by the American troops assembled in the war
of 1812. In the engraving annexed is seen, on the right, a large forest-
poplar, or "American tulip-tree," probably standing when Annapolis was first
settled, in 1649. It is an object of veneration to the citizens; under its shade,
Francis S. Key, the author of the "Star-Spangled Banner," while a student
here, passed many hours.
The United States Naval Academy, at Annapolis, is a flourishing institu
tion, under the direction of the academic board, and has an efficient corps
of professors and teachers. There are here usually about 200 students under
a course of instruction which occupies four years. During the warm season
they are taught seamanship, adopting seamen's fare while on ship board.
The grounds and buildings at Fort Severn occupy an area of several acres.
The River Severn is here a mile wide, and sufficiently deep for the largest
MARYLAND.
591
skips -of-war. This section of the town was formerly much neglected; but
of late years it has been greatly improved — particularly in front, and in the
South-western mew of the United States Naval Academy, Annapolis.
The Steam-works, Gas House, and part of Fort Severn, are seen on the left; the Chapel, Monument,
etc., on the right ; the Recitation Hall, and other buildings, in the central part.
vicinity of the academy buildings. The following inscriptions are from a
tasteful monument erected between the chapel and the observatory building :
To midshipmen J. W. PILSBURY and T. B. SHUBRICK — the former drowned near Vera Cruz
July 24th, 1846, the latter killed at the Naval battery near Vera Cruz, March 25th, 1847,
while in the discharge of their duties — this monument is erected by passed and other mid
shipmen as a tribute of respect.
To passed midshipmen H. A. CLEMSON and J. R. HYNSON — lost with the U. S. brig Som-
ers off Vera Cruz, Dec. 8th, 1846 — this monument is erected bypassed and other midshipmen
^of the U. S. Navy as a tribute of respect.
The first of the following inscriptions is from a monument in the grave
yard adjoining the Episcopal Church, the others from the City Cemetery:
Here are deposited the remains of the Honorable BENJAMIN TASKER, who departed this
life the 19th of June, Anno Dom., 1768, in the 78th year of his age, which, though of a
constitution naturally weak and delicate, he attained through the efficiency of an exemplary
temperance. At the time of his decease he was President of the Council, a station he had
occupied for thirty-two years. The offices of Agent and Receiver General and Judge of the
Perogative Court he successfully exercised. Such were his qualities, his probity, equanim
ity, candor, benevolence, that no one was more respected, more beloved. So diffusive and
pure his humanity and singular deportment, that he was no one's enemy nor any his.
To the memory of JEREMIAH TOWNLEY CHASE, late Chief Judge of the State of Maryland
for the Court of Appeals, who was born May 23d, 1748, and died May llth, 1828, closing a
long, useful and honored life by a death full of peace and hope. He had served his country
in the day of her peril, and filled and adorned many stations of high trust to which she had
called him. He had deserved and obtained the esteem of all who knew him, and the warmest
affections of his friends, kindred and family. He was " ready to be offered," for he had
walked with God and trusted in a Redeemer, and found His grace sufficient for him in life
and death. Reader 1 thank God that He hath given such a man to the world, and such an
example to thee.
Here lies what was mortal of THEODORICK BLAND, Chancellor of Maryland. He departed
this life at Annapolis, in the 70th year of his age, on the 16th of April, 1846. To the dis
charge of his various duties he devoted a mind stored with the treasures of learning, a judg
ment clear, accurate and profound, prompted by rectitude of purpose, and governed by truth
592
MARYLAND.
and justice. A native of Virginia, the deceased became a citizen of this State. Here he
filled many high offices before 1817, then selected by the President of the United States to
be one of the Commissioners to South America. On his return he was appointed District
Judge of the United States, and in 1824 Chancellor of Maryland.
To the memory of ANDREW PARKER, late a private in Brev't Major Gardner's Company A,
4th Artillery, who died at Ft. Severn, Md., on the 18th of March, 1845. Erected by his com
rades.
To him the bugle's thrilling sound
May call to arms in vain ;
He's quartered in death's camping-ground,
He'll never march again.
FREDERICK CITY is situated on Carroll creek, a branch of Monocacy River,
75 miles N. W. of Annapolis and 43 N. N. W. of Washington. The city is
regularly laid out, with wide streets crossing each other at right angles. It
is handsomely and compactly built, and has a number of fine private resi
dences. It has several scientific and literary institutions. St. John's Col
lege, chartered in 1850, and several other Catholic institutions, are located
here. Besides the county buildings, it has ten churches, some of them spa
cious and of fine architecture, two extensive foundries, several large tanner
ies, and about 7,000 inhabitants. The valley of the Monocacy is remarkable
for its beauty of position, its rich agricultural resources and mineral wealth.
South- Eastern View of Frederick City.
The above shows the appearance of Frederick City as it is entered by the railroad connecting with the
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad three miles distant. The large building on the extreme right is the Ladies'
Academy of the Visitation of the B. V. M., erected in 1853. The tall steeple a little to the left is that of
the new Catholic Church : the Novitiate S. J., a large structure, stands on the opposite side of the street
from it. The New Evangelical Lutheran Church is seen in the central part. The spires of thePreshyte-
rian and the German Reformed Churches appear on the left,
Frederick is the depot of this rich district, and is. in point of wealth and ele
gance, the second city of Maryland. Frederick was laid out in 1745, by Mr.
Patrick Dulany. Its streets were intended to run due north and east, but
from the clumsiness of the wooden instrument used in the survey this object
was not accomplished. During the French and Indian wars, Frederick was
one of the frontier towns, and a kind of military post. The barracks erected
in 1752 still remain. The Court House, built in 1752, and the City Hall and
MARYLAND.
593
Market, built in 1769, are still used. The following inscriptions are copied
from monuments in the ancient grave-yard :
In memory of Gen. ROGER NELSON, who died 7th June, 1815, aged 56 years. He lived
more for his country than himself. He was engaged amongst others in the battle of Eutaw,
Guilford, Camden, and was present at the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown. He bore
upon his body the scars of sixteen wounds received during his services in the Revolutionary
war. Many years of the after part of his life were spent in both branches of the Legisla
ture of Maryland, and in the Congress of the United States, and in his declining years he
served as one of the Judges of the Sixth Judicial District of Maryland. As a husband and
father, he is held in most affectionate remembrance.
Sacred to the memory of Dr. PHILIP THOMAS, who died 25th April, 1815, aged 67. Ten
derly affectionate as a husband and father, sincere and ardent as a friend, a devoted patriot
of 76, great and humane as a physician, just and honorable in all his transactions, such was
the character of the lamented deceased. For more than forty-five years he was laborious
and zealous in his profession. As a father and friend to the sick, his humanity knew not
the distinction between the rich and poor. He lived in communion with the P. E. Church,
of which he was a zealous supporter, and relied for salvation upon the merits of Jesus Christ.
Sacred to the memory of Dr. WILLIAM ADAMS, born and educated in Ireland. For 75
years a citizen of the State of New York, came on visit to this city Aug. llth, 1829. Died
Jan. 20th, 1830, aged 100 years. Beside him lies a descendant of the fourth generation aged
1 day.
Cumberland.
The engraving represents Cumberland as it is entered from the south-east upon the Baltimore and Ohio
Railroad. On the left is shown the deep and narrow valley, by which the Potomac finds a passage through
Will's Mountain. The Court House, the Catholic and the Episcopal Churches, and the Academy, all on
Fort Hill, are seen in the central part. The Delaware and Cumberland Canal, coal-boats, etc., appear in
the foreground. The point of the mountain on the left is in Virginia — on the right in Maryland.
CUMBERLAND, on the north bank of the Potomac River, is situated at the
west terminus of the Ohio and Chesapeake Canal, and at the commencement
of the National road, leading to the Mississippi. It is 179 miles by railroad
from Baltimore, 165 W. N. W. of Annapolis, and 134 N. W. of Washington.
The village contains the county buildings of Alleghany county, several fine
buildings connected with the public works, arid a number of handsome
churches. Population about 7,000. Cumberland is situated in the moun
tainous region of the narrow strip which forms the western part of Maryland.
594 MARYLAND.
It occupies the site of Fort Cumberland, and the mountain scenery is pictur
esque, varied and beautiful. Being on the line of the Baltimore and Ohio
Railroad, it is a great thoroughfare; it is the general center of the great min
ing regions of the vicinity, and a center from which diverge all the great
routes of travel between the eastern and western states, and middle portion
of the Union. The coal of this region is semi-bituminous — suitable for ocean
steamships. Great quantities are brought to Baltimore and elsewhere. The
Cumberland Coal and Iron Company is an amalgamation of several compan
ies, and was organized by the legislature of the state in 1852; it now holds
about 12,000 acres of mineral lands, and has a working capital of about
$5,000,000.
Hagerstown is located in the midst of a flourishing agricultural district; is
about 100 miles N. W. of Annapolis, and about the same distance from Wash
ington. It is a well built town, having about 4,000 inhabitants. It has 2
banks, and 7 weekly papers are issued. The Franklin Railroad connects the
town with the railroads of Pennsylvania.
Havre de Grace, at the confluence of Susquehanna River with the Dela
ware Bay, is 64 miles N. E. of Annapolis. Population about 1,400. The
Baltimore and Philadelphia Railroad passes through this place, and crosses
the Susquehanna by a steam-ferry.
Ellicott's Mills, on tfce Patapsco River and Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, is
15 miles west of Baltimore. Population about 1.400. The whole vicinity
is one scene of productive industry, and here is the greatest center of flour
ing mills in the Union.
.# BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, ETC.
Samuel Chase, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born April 17,
1741, in Somerset county, Md. His father was an Episcopal clergyman, who gave
his son an excellent education.
At the age of twenty years, Mr.
*-^— > Chase was chosen a member of
^^.^ * the provincial assembly, and was
^^^^^_^ soon distinguished for his opposi
tion to the tyranny of the mother
country. He was one of the three commissioners who were appointed to a mis
sion to Canada, to gain over that province to the American cause. In 1796, being
nominated by President Washington, he was appointed a judge of the supreme
court of the United States. He died July 19, 1811.
William Paca, a signer of the declaration of independence, was the son of a
wealthy planter on the eastern shore of Maryland, and was born in 1740. He
graduated at Philadelphia College, and af-
terward attached himself to the study arid
Practice of the law. He was sent to the
continental congress, where, at first, he
was embarrassed by the opposition of his
constituents to independence; they soon afterward withdrew their restrictions
from the votes of their delegates. Mr. Paca was appointed chief justice of the
state of Maryland about the beginning of 1778, and for one year held the office
of governor. He died in 1799.
George Calvert, Lord Baltimore, was descended from a noble family, and was
born in Yorkshire, and educated at Oxford, England. He was knighted by the
king in 1617, and was soon after made secretary of state. In 1624 he resigned
the seals to the king, confessing himself to be a Roman Catholic ; but notwith
standing this, he continued in favor with the monarch, and was created Lord Bal-
MARYLAND. 595
timore in 1625. He twice visited Newfoundland, where the king granted him a
large tract of land; but finding his property in that region was exposed to plunder
by the French vessels, he abandoned it for the neighborhood of Virginia, when
Charles I granted him a patent for Maryland. He died at London, in 1632, and
his son, who inherited his enterprising spirit, planted a colony there of about 200
families. The proprietorship of Maryland continued in the descendants or rela
tives of Lord Baltimore, with some interruptions, until the revolution.
Thomas Stone, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Ma
ryland, in 1743, and at the age of twenty-one, it is believed, first commenced
the practice of law at Annapolis. He
was elected one of the five delegates from
Maryland to the first general congress,
in 1774. In 1784, Mr. Stone was ap
pointed president of congress, pro tern-
pore ; on its adjournment, he retired to his constituents and resumed the duties of
his profession at Port Tobacco, the place of his residence, where he died, Oct. 5,
1 < 87.
Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, a signer of the declaration of independence, was
born in Maryland, Sept. 20, 1737. At only eight years of age his father, being a
catholic, took him
to France, and
r/Z^7<?7>£ 0//fa^lUr^L^C//?n/ entered him as a
/^t student in the Jes
uit College at St.
Omers. At the
age of seventeen
he commenced the study of law at Bourges, and afterward he continued his studies
at Paris and London. In 1765, he returned to Maryland, a finished scholar and
gentleman. At the commencement of the revolution, Mr. Carroll advocated the
American cause with much zeal. Early in the spring of 1776, he was sent, with
Dr. Franklin and Samuel Chase, on a mission to Canada to induce that province to
join the American cause. He died at Baltimore, Nov., 1832, in the ninety-sixth
year of his age, being the last survivor of the fifty-six who signed the declaration
of independence. When he signed that instrument he added to his name, " of
Carrollton" that the British ministry might not mistake for him his cousin of
the same name in case they should have occasion to hang the authors of this act
of treason to the crown.
John E. Howard, a soldier of the revolution, was born in Maryland, in 1752,
He entered the service as a captain of one of those bodies of militia, called flying
camps. In 1777, he joined the army of Washington, in New Jersey. He was in the
battles of Germantown and Monmouth. In 1779, he was commissioned as Lieut
Col. of the 5th Maryland regiment. He greatly distinguished himself under Gen.
Morgan, at the battle of Cowpens, and afterward at Guilford, where he was
wounded. In 1788, he was chosen governor of Maryland. When, in 1814, Balti
more was threatened by the enemy, he was prepared to take the field. He died
Oct. 12, 1827, at the age of seventy-five.
William Smallwood, a general in the revolutionary war, was a native of Mary
land. He was appointed a brigadier in the Continental army in 1776, and in 1780,
a major general. He was in the battle of Long Island, where his command, com
posed mostly of young men of the most respectable families of Maryland, suffered
severely. He was in the battles of Brandy wine and Germantown ; succeeded
William Paca as governor of Maryland, and died in 1792.
William Wirt, the statesman and author, was born of German parentage, at
Bladensburg, in 1772, and was early left an orphan. He was educated as a law
yer, and practiced in Virginia, where he was, in 1802, appointed chancellor of its
eastern district. In 1803-4, his beautiful essays, under the name of the British
Spy, were issued. In 1807, he gained great eclat in the trial of Aaron Burr, by
his speech upon the character of Blannerhassett. In 1818, he was appointed by
38
596 MARYLAND.
President Monroe, attorney general of the United States, an office he held through
three presidential terms. In 1832, he was the anti-masonic candidate fur presi
dent of the United States, for which he received the electoral votes of only one
state — Vermont. He died in 1834, aged 64 years. His Life of Patrick Henry is
widely known. In early life, Mr. Wirt contracted dissipated habits, from which
he was said to have been redeemed by listening to a sermon preached by the blind
preacher, James Waddell, whose memory he has perpetuated in his British Spy.
William Pinkney, the statesman and diplomatist, was born in Annapolis, in
1764, and was bred to the law. In 1796, he was appointed a commissioner under
Jay's treaty, and resided in London eight years. In 1805, he was appointed attor
ney general of Maryland, and the next year sent as minister to England, to treat
concerning the impressment of American seamen. In 1811, he returned to Amer
ica, and was appointed attorney general of the United States ; in 1816, he was
sent as minister to the courts of Russia and Naples. In 1820, he was elected
to the United States senate, from Maryland, and died in 1822, aged 57, leaving a
high reputation for brilliancy of talents and unwearied industry.
Samuel Smith, an officer of the revolution, distinguished for his gallant defense
of Fort Mifflin, was born in Lancaster county, Pa., in 1752. He was educated as
a merchant, and when a young man traveled extensively in Europe. In 1776, he
obtained a captaincy in Smallwood's Maryland regiment, and eventually rose to
the rank of general by his meritorious conduct in some of the most trying scenes
of the war. In the war of 1812, he served as major general of militia, and had
command of forces assembled for the defense of Baltimore. He was an enterpris
ing merchant, and contributed largely to the commercial advancement of the city
of his adoption. For 16 years he represented Baltimore in Congress, and for 23
years, Maryland in the senate of the United States. He died in 1839, in his 87th
year. He was distinguished for his persevering business habits, energy of char
acter, and earnestness in debate. At the age of 85 years he quelled a mob in Bal
timore, by appearing in their midst bearing the American flag, and calling upon
all peaceably disposed citizens to assist him in sustaining law and order.
Francis Scott Key was born in Frederick county, Aug., 1779. His father was
an officer in the revolutionary war, and a descendant of some of the oldest settlers
in the province. Francis, his son, was educated at St. John's College, Annapolis,
and studied law at that place with his uncle. In 1801, he commenced practice at
Fredericktown. He afterward removed to Washington, D. C., where he became
district attorney of the city, and remained there until his death, Jan. 11, 1843.
Mr. Key was the author of the " Star Spangled Banner," and a few other songs,
and some devotional pieces. His poems were written without any view to publi
cation, for the gratification of his friends.
Edgar Allan Poe, a wayward child of genius, was descended from an ancient
Maryland family, and was born in Baltimore, in 1811, and died there in 1849, at
the hospital, from an attack brought on by his habits of intemperance. His cele
brated poem, The Raven, is an enduring monument to his memory in the literary
world.
Otho Holland Williams, a distinguished general of the revolution, was born in
Prince George county, in 1748. He was a major at Fort Washington, and gained
great credit by the manner in which his men withstood the attack of a Hessian
regiment at the time of the capture of the fort. He was then taken prisoner, and be
ing exchanged, he was placed at the head of the sixth Maryland. In the cam
paigns of the south, under Gates and Greene, he was adjutant general of the Amer
ican army, and behaved with great distinction at the disastrous battle of Camden,
and on other occasions. Previous to the disbanding of the army, he was ap
pointed brigadier general. He died in 1794.
Nathan Towson, major general in the United States army, was born in Mary
land, in 1784. In the war of 1812, he showed skill and valor in the battles on the
Niagara frontier, under Brown, Ripley and Scott, at which time he was an officer
of artillery. He died at Washington city, in 1854, at the age of 70. '' In private
life he was amiable, and his character without spot or blemish."
MARYLAND. 597
Bennet Riley, brevet major general in the U. S. army, was born in St. Mary's
county, in 1786, and entered the army at an early age. In the Florida war he
gained reputation at the battle of Chockachatta. He distinguished himself in the
Mexican war, particularly at Cerro Gordo and Contreras. In 1849 and 1850, he
had command of the military department of Upper California. He died in 1852,
aged 66 years.
Samuel Binggold, a major in the U. S. army, was born about the year 1796. He
was the eldest son of Gen. Samuel Ringgold, of Washington county, Md. ; and his
mother was a daughter of Gen. John Cadwallader, of Philadelphia, a sterling offi
cer of the revolution. He was educated at West Point, and was the aid to Gen.
Scott, in Florida. He organized the corps of flying artillery of the U. S. army,
and paid great attention to the discipline of the soldiers in this branch of the ser
vice. This, together with his high character as a gentleman, gave him promi
nence in the country, so that his death at Palo Alto, the opening battle of the
Mexican war, May 8, 1846, created a profound impression on the public mind.
John Rodgers, commander in the U. S. Navy, was born in Harford county,
Md., in 1771. He served with credit in the war with the Barbary powers, and in
that of 1812. He successively refused the office of secretary of the navy from
Madison and Monroe. For about 20 years he was president of the board of Navy
commissioners. He died in 1838, in his 67th year.
Joshua Barney, a distinguished naval commander, was born in Baltimore, in
1759, and early went to sea. He entered the naval service at the beginning of the
revolution, and after a variety of adventures, in which he was taken prisoner three
times, he was, in 1782, placed in command of the Hyder Ally, of 16 guns, with
which vessel he took the British ship General Monk, in an action of 26 minntes.
Shortly after, he sailed to France with dispatches for Dr. Franklin, and brought
back the French loan in chests of gold and barrels of silver. When, in the war
of 1812, the British invaded Washington, he made a gallant stand with his ma
rines, at Bladensburg. He died in 1818, at the age of 59 years, having been in
service 41 years, fought 26 battles and one duel.
Jesse Duncan Elliott, a commodore in the U. S. Navy, was born in Maryland,
in 1785, educated at Carlisle, Pa., and subsequently entered the navy. For a gal
lant exploit performed on Lake Erie, Oct. 8, 1812, congress presented him with
a sword. His conduct in Perry's victory on Lake Erie, gained him the commend
ation of his superior officer. He remained in the navy until the period of his
death, in 1845.
Charles G. Ridgely, a commodore in the U. S. Navy, was born in Baltimore, in
1784, and entered the navy as midshipman, at 15 years of age. For his gallant
conduct in the Tripolitan war, he received a gold medal from congress. He died
in 1848. having been in service 48 years.
Louis AT Lane, eminent as a statesman, was born in Smyrna, Del., in 1786.
From 1798 to 1801, was a midshipman under Decatur, when he left the navy
studied law, and for many years represented Delaware in both houses of Congress.
In 1829, he was appointed by President Jackson minister to the court of St. James.
He was afterward secretary of the U. S. treasury, and also secretary of state. Re
tiring from public life in 1834, he was, in 1837, elected president of the Baltimore
and Ohio Railroad Co. During the pendency of the Oregon negotiations, he waa
appointed minister to Great Britain, by President Polk, and after a long and use
ful career, died Oct. 7, 1857, in his 72d year.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
THE District of Columbia — the seat of the government of the United
States — occupies a space of 60 square miles, or 38,400 acres, about half of
which is improved ; it is situated on the left or northern bank of the Poto
mac, about one hundred and twenty miles from its entrance into Chesapeake
Bay. The territory was formerly 10 miles square, and was ceded by the
states of Maryland and Virginia for the use of the federal government. The
act of congress locating the capitol of the United States at Washington, was
dated 16th of July, 1790. This was done at the suggestion of Gen. Wash
ington. It was, however, provided that the seat of government should not
be removed until 1800, in order that buildings might be appointed for con
gress and the executive departments. The corner-stone of the district was
laid on the 15th of April, 1791, and that of the capitol, by Gen. Washing
ton, on the 18th of Sept., 1795. The design was planned, and the streets
laid out, by Maj. L'Enfant and Mr. Ellicott. The seat of government was
removed from Philadelphia to Washington in 1800. That part of the Dis
trict granted by Virginia, and in which the city of Alexandria is situated,
was retroceded back to Virginia in 1846. The District of Columbia now
comprises the territory ceded by Maryland in 1788, and contains the cities
of Washington and Georgetown, and is under the immediate jurisdiction of
congress. Population in 1850, 51,687, of whom 9,970 were free colored,
and 3,687 slaves.
WASHINGTON, the capital of the United States of America, is situated on
the left or northern bank of the Potomac, distant from Baltimore 38 miles, 136
from Philadelphia, New York 226, Boston 432, Cincinnati 497, Chicago 763,
St. Louis 856, Pittsburg 228, San Francisco (in a direct line) about 2,000,
Richmond 122, Wilmington (N. C.) 416, Charleston 544, Mobile 1,033,
Nashville 714, Louisville 590, arid New Orleans 1,203 miles. The Observ
atory lies in 38° 53' 32" N. lat., and 77° 3' W. long, from Greenwich; it is
itself a meridian, and many American maps have their longitude reckoned
from this city. The population in 1800 was 3,210; in 1820, 13,247; in 1840,
23,364; in 1860, 61,400.
The city is laid out on a magnificent plan, including 5,000 acres, sufficient
to accommodate a million of inhabitants. The extent of this plan has some
times caused Washington to be termed a city of " magnificent distances," and
the city as a whole has somewhat of a scattered appearance. Fine ranges of
hills are situated in the vicinity, and are covered in part with trees and shrub
bery, presenting verdant and cultivated slopes. In planning the city the
most advantageous sites were appropriated for the different edifices. The
ground on which Washington stands has a general elevation of about 40 feet
(599)
600
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
above the level of the river, with some points still higher. The streets run
north and south, east and west: across which, in a diagonal direction, are a
series of broad avenues, designed to facilitate communication with each part
of the city — five of them radiating from the capitol, and five others from the
President's house. The avenues and principal streets are from 130 to 160
feet wide, and the points at which they meet are selected as sites for public
buildings. The avenues are named from the principal states. Pennsylvania
avenue, extending about a mile from the capitol to the President's house, is
the most compactly built, and forms the principal thoroughfare.
Capitol of the United States, from Pennsylvania-avenue.
The CAPITOL is a large, massive edifice, of the Corinthian order, and is
built of free-stone. The original design of the building was made by Dr.
Win. Thornton, and modified by C. Bulfinch and M. Latrobe ; the corner
stone was laid by Washington, in 1795. It was first occupied in 1800: the
northern wing then being only completed, at a cost of $480,000. In 1814,
after the completion of the southern wing — which cost $308,000 — but before
the erection of the porticos, during the British occupation of Washington,
the building was set on fire, and the roofs and the interior burnt. The wings
were repaired and occupied in 1819. The center building was completed in
1827, costing about $1,000,000. A new dome has been recently constructed
602
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
and the wings extended. The great dome is 140 feet high, and the total
length of the building 740 feet, covering about four acres ; and the whole
structure, when completed, will have been erected at an expense of about ten
millions of dollars.
Under the dome, in the middle of the building, is the rotunda, 95 feet in
diameter and of the same hight, and adorned with sculpture in stone panels
in bold relief. The subjects are: Capt. Smith saved by Pocahontas ; Land
ing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth; Conflict between Daniel Boone and the
Indians; Penn's Treaty with the Indians. Within the circuit of the dome
are eight pannels, having the following paintings: Declaration of Independ
ence; Surrender of Burgoyne; Surrender of Cornwallis; Washington resign
ing his Commission ; these four were painted by Trumbull ; the other four
are: "Embarkation of the Pilgrims," at Leyden, by Weir; "Landing of
Columbus," by Vanderlyn; the "Baptism of Pocahontas," by Chapman; and
"Discovery of the Mississippi by De Soto," by Powell.
By the door at the eastern entrance of the rotunda, is the statue of War,
by Persico. It is of Carrara marble, and is about 9 feet high : the costume
is that of an ancient warrior ; on the other side of the door is the figure of
Peace : a maiden clothed in simple garb, with the olive branch, etc. On the
southern abutment of the grand steps is Persico's marble group, the Discov
ery of America, representing Columbus, and an Indian female startled at the
appearance of a stranger of an unknown race. Columbus is holding a globe,
and is clad in armor, said to be accurate to a rivet, being copied from a suit
in the palace of his descendants at Genoa. The group on the northern abut
ment, is by Greenough, entitled Civilization; it consists of a mother and child,
a savage with his toma
hawk, who is prevented
from striking by the
father, etc. The "Stat
ue of Washington," by
Greenough, is in the
square east of the cap-
itol. It is of colossal
size, partially clothed in
the Boman costume, in a
sitting posture, with the
right hand pointing up-
ward, and the left hold
ing a Roman sword with
the handle turned from
the person. At the west
ern entrance of the capi-
tol stands the Naval
Monument, erected by
the officers of the navy,
to the memory of their
brother officers who fell
in the war with Tripoli.
It originally stood at the
navy yard ; it IS of mar
ble, about 40 feet high.
It has a large square base, on which are placed various additions, and a col
umn, from which project beaks of ships — the whole being surmounted by an
NAVAL MONUMENT, WASHINGTON.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
603
eagle. On one side of the base is a view of Tripoli and the American fleet ;
on another the words, " To the memory of Somers, Caldwell, Decatur, Wads-
worth, Dorsey, Israel;" on another, their epitaphs, or short history, etc. At
the base of the column are the figures of Mercury, Fame, History and
America.
Mills' equestrian statue of Washington was inaugurated February 22, 1800.
"The Father of his country is represented as he appeared at the ' Battle of
Princeton,' where, after attempting several times in vain to rally his troops, he
put spurs to his horse and dashes up to the cannon's mouth. His terror-stricken
horse stops and recoils, while the balls tear up the earth beneath his feet;
but Washington, cool, calm, collected and dignified, believing himself simply
an instrument in the hands of Providence to work out the great problem of
liberty, remains firmly seated, like a god upon his throne. The repose of
the hero at this moment of imminent peril to his life, contrasts admirably
with the fearful agitation manifested by his noble but unreasoning steed, who
is sustained by none of the considerations which impart courage to the hero
and the Christian."
North front of the President's House, Washington.
The PRESIDENT'S HOUSE is upward of one mile west of the capitol, on the
road to Georgetown, on a plat of ground of 20 acres, 44 feet above high
water. It has a north and south front, around both of which the grounds
are tastefully laid out, and beautifully adorned with forest-trees and shrub
bery. The mansion is built of white free-stone, and has a front of 170 with
a depth of 86 feet. The northern front has a lofty portico of four Ionic
columns in front, and projecting with three columns, beneath which pass the
carriages of visitors ; opposite the front door, across a large open vestibule or
hall, is the reception-room, sometimes called the blue rwm, beautifully pa
pered, carpeted, and furnished with chairs, etc. Opening into the recep
tion-room is an apartment known as the green room, of 30 by 22 feet
604 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
The east room adjoining, is 80 feet long by 40 wide, and 22 feet high; this
is most elegantly furnished.
A very superior bronze statue of Jefferson, formerly in the rotunda of the
capitol, stands on a pedestal in the small square directly in front of the Pres
ident's house. It was presented to the government by Capt. Levy, of the U.
S. navy, the proprietor of Monticello, the seat of Jefferson, in Virginia. The
statue holds in the left hand a scroll of the declaration of independence; and
in the right a pen, as if he had just completed this celebrated instrument.
The bronze equestrian statue of Jackson, in La Fayette square, opposite the
President's house, is one-third larger than life, after a model by Mills, rep
resenting the horse as rearing, self-balanced and sustained, while the general
waves his hat in acknowledgment of the honor paid him as he is reviewing
his troops.
The State Department, which stands N. E. of the President's house, and
within the same inclosure, is a plain brick building, 2 stories high, 160 feet
long and 55 wide, containing 32 rooms. It has a valuable library of some
15,000 volumes. The Copyright Bureau contains some 12,000 volumes pub
lished in this country. The Treasury Department, a stone edifice, stands at
the eastern extremity of the square, 340 feet long and 170 wide. The front
is a colonnade stretching the entire length of the building, copied from the
Temple of Minerva at Athens.
The War Department building occupies the N. W. corner of the square.
It is the headquarters of the officers of the army. This Department com
prises the War office proper, with various other departments connected with
the military service. It is furnished with a library of 10,000 volumes. The
flags taken in the war of the Revolution, in that of 1812 with Great Britain,
and many trophies won from Mexico, are carefully preserved in this depart
ment.
The Navy Department building lies directly west of the President's house,
and in the rear of the War Department. It has five bureaus relating to the
Naval Service. Between thirty and forty national flags, trophies of battle,
are displayed in one of the rooms of the Navy Commissioners.
The Department of the Inferior, or Home Department, is the most extensive
connected with the government, but its building is not yet completed. A
portion is occupied as the Patent Office. The titles of the bureaus connected
with the Interior Department are the Land Office, Patent Office, Indian
Office and Pension Office. In the second story of the building now occupied
as the Patent Office is the original Declaration of Independence, the relics of
Washington, including his camp-chest, the gifts presented from time to time
to the government, Franklin's printing-press, a collection of Indian portraits
by King, etc. In the first story of the same building are collected all the
models of the machines that have been patented since the foundation of the
government. The second floor is thrown into one grand saloon, appropriately
named the National Gallery, where are exhibited specimens of home manu
factures, numerous subjects of natural history, etc. The length of this hall
is 264 feet, breadth 64, and hight 30 feet. The room is ornamented with
rows of massive stone Doric columns.
The National Observatory is situated about two miles from the capitol, on
Camp Hill, from which is obtained a fine prospect of Washington and George
town. It is a Naval Institution, under the control and management of Lieut.
M. F. Maury, U. S. N. The Great Equatorial Telescope used here is a noble
instrument, unvailing, as it were, new worlds, and the beholder sees through
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
flTT
605
it the mountains and volcanoes of the moon, the planets Jupiter, Saturn,
Mars, Venus, etc., as magnificent orbs surrounded by their accompanying
satellites. The most wonderful object in this establishment, is the Electro-
Chronograph, invented by Dr. Locke, of Cincinnati. By its connection with
an electrical battery in the building, its ticks can be heard in any part of the
country to which the telegraph wires lead, when it is put in connection with
them. By it the astronomer in Boston and New Orleans can tell the time
as well as by the clock in his own room.
Lecture-Room of Smithsonian Institution, Washington City.
The Smithsonian Institution owes its existence to the will of James Smith-
son, of England, a relative of the Duke of Northumberland, who about
thirty years since died at Genoa, leaving to the United States more than half
a million of dollars "to found at Washington, under the name of the Smith
sonian Institution, an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowl
edge among men." In July, 1836, Congress solemnly accepted the trust.
The building is situated in the open mall below the capital. It is of stone,
in the Romanesque style of architecture. The length of the whole edifice is
450 feet, with a breadth of 140 feet. There are nine towers in the various
parts of the building, varying in hight from 75 to 150 feet. The reasons
which induced Mr. Smithson to make this bequest are unknown. He never
was in the United States, had no friends or acquaintances here, and is not
known to have been partial to republican institutions.
The Post- Office Department, built of white marble, after the Corinthian
order of architecture, is three stories high, 204 feet long, and 102 feet deep.
606 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
It occupies a central position in the city, near the Department of the Interior,
both of which are about half a mile from the President's house. The Office
of the Coast Survey lies a little east of the capitol. Great progress has been
made in an accurate survey of a large extent of our coast both on the Atlantic
and Pacific. The Navy Yard is situated near the mouth of the eastern
branch of the Potomac. It covers an area of about twenty acres, and the
works are very extensive. The Arsenal occupies a fine position at Green-
leafs Point, on the extreme southern point of the city.
On the 10th of Aug., 1814, a British fleet of 60 sail, under Admiral
Cockburn, with a land force of 6,000 men, the flower of Lord Wellington's
army, appeared in Chesapeake Bay for the attack on Washington. The fleet
proceeded up the Potomac, and on the 19th commenced landing on the left
bank of the Patuxent at Benedict, forty miles from Washington. On the
20th the troops commenced their march up the river. Commodore Barney,
with the American flotilla, having retired two miles above Marlborough, find
ing it impossible to prevent his boats from falling into the hands of the enemy,
blew them up and proceeded to join Gen. Winder. On the 24th a stand was
taken by the Americans at Bladensburg. The following account of the events
which followed, is from "Perkins1 Hist, of the Late War":
"At half past twelve, before the second line was completely formed, the battle
commenced. The Baltimore artillery fired upon and dispersed the British light
troops advancing along the streets of the village. They immediately took shelter
behind the buildings and trees, and presented only single objects for the artillery.
The British now commenced throwing rockets, and began to concentrate their light
troops at the bridge, which the American general had not taken the precaution to
destroy. The riflemen and artillery now poured in a destructive fire upon this
body, and cut them down in great" numbers as they advanced. The British at
length gained the bridge, rapidly passed it, formed, and passed steadily on, flank
ing to the left, and compelled the riflemen and artillery to give way. Major Pirick-
ney was severely wounded. He exerted himself to rally his men, and succeeded
in forming them at a small distance in the rear of his first position, and united with
the fifth Baltimore regiment. General Stansbury continued about four hundred
yards in the rear of the battery, and left this division to contend with the whole
force of the enemy, until it was compelled to retire. The British then occupied
the ground they had left, and continued to advance. Col. Sterrett, with the 5th
Baltimore regiment, and Captain Birch with his artillery, were ordered to advance
to support the first line. The British soon took advantage of the orchard which
had just been occupied by the retreating troops, and kept up a galling fire on the
American line. Captain Birch now opened a cross fire with some effect. Colonel
Sterrett made a prompt movement in advance, but was ordered to halt. At this
time the enemy's rockets assumed a more horizontal direction, and passing near
the heads of Colonel Shultz and Pragan's regiments, caused the right wing to give
way, which was immediately followed by a general flight of the two regiments.
Birch's artillery and the 5th regiment remained, and continued their tire with
effect. The British light troops were for a short time driven back, but immedi
ately rallied and gained the right flank of the fifth. This regiment, with the ar
tillery, were then ordered to fall back and form a small distance in the rear. But
instead of retreating in order, the fifth followed the example of the other two reg
iments and fled in confusion. The whole of the first line was now completely
routed. Various attempts were made to rally, but without success. No move
ments were made by the cavalry to cover the retreat, though the open and scat
tered manner in which the pursuit was conducted afforded a fine opportunity for
a charge by the cavalry. This line retreated upon a road which in a short distance
forked into three branches, one leading to Montgomery Court-house, on the Poto
mac, fifteen miles above Washington, one to Georgetown, and the other to the
capital. General Winder endeavored to direct the retreating forces to the city,
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. (507
but without success ; when they came to the three branches, the greater number
took the road to Montgomery Court-house, as the place of the greatest safety.
Colonel Kramer, stationed on the right of the road, and in advance of Commo
dore Barney, was next driven from his post and retreated upon the troops of Col
onels Beall and Hood, posted on an eminence on the right. After this movement,
the British columns in the road were exposed to an animated fire from Major Pe
ter's artillery, which continued until they came in contact with Commodore Bar
ney. Here they sustained the heaviest loss. When they came in full view, and
in solid column upon the main road, he opened upon them an eighteen pounder,
which completely cleared the road. They made several attempts to rally and ad
vance, but were 'as often repelled. This induced them to flank off to the right of
the American lines to an open field. Here Captain Miller opened upon them with
three twelve pounders with great effect. The British continued flanking to the
right and pressed upon Colonels Beall and Hood's command. These troops, after
firing three or four rounds at such distance as to produce no effect, broke and fled.
This exposed the artillery of Barney and Miller to the whole British force, who
soon gained their rear. Both these officers were severely wounded.
Commodore Barney taken. Commodore Barney ordered a retreat, but the British
being in his rear, he was made prisoner. As he lay wounded by the side of the
fence, he beckoned to a British soldier, and directed him to call an officer. Gen
eral Ross immediately rode up, and, on being informed of his character and situa
tion, ordered his wounds to be dressed and paroled him. The second line was not
entirely connected, but posted in advantageous positions in connection with and
supporting each other. The command of General Smith, including the George
town and city militia, and the regulars under Colonel Scott, and some other corps,
still remained unbroken.
The British light troops, in the meantime advancing on the left of the road, had
gained a line parallel with Smith's command, and were endeavoring to turn his
flank. Col. Brent was placed in a situation calculated to prevent this movement.
The British continued their march, and came within long shot of Magruder's com
mand, who opened a partial fire upon them. At this moment the whole of the
troops were ordered to fall back ; after retreating about one hundred rods, they
were halted and formed by their officers, when they were again ordered to retreat
and form on the hights west of the Turnpike Gate, and half a mile in front of the
capital. Here Colonel Minor, with his regiment of Virginia militia, having spent
the day in the city, endeavoring to get access to the arsenal for supplies for his
troops, came up and joined General Smith. While in the act of forming upon
these hights, General Winder arrived and ordered the troops to retire to the cap
ital, in expectation of there uniting with the first line ; but these troops, excepting
one company of Colonel Laval's cavalry, were not to be found on Capitol Hill.
City evacuated. A conference was immediately held between General Winder
and the Secretaries of State and War, that it would be impossible, in the existing
state of things, to make effectual resistance against the invasion of the city, or de
fend the capital ; the whole force was then ordered to quit the city and retreat
through Georgetown to a place of safety. On receiving this order, the troops then
remaining manifested the deepest regret. They consisted principally of the
Georgetown and city militia, who had not had an opportunity of signalizing them
selves in defense of their fire-sides; to leave them without a struggle, an unresist
ing prey to the enemy, was more than they could endure. That order which they
had heretofore observed was entirely destroyed ; some went home, some went in
pursuit of refreshments, and those that remained in a body gave themselves up to
those feelings which fatigue, exhaustion and disappointment produced. An at
tempt was made to rally the troops at Tenleytown, but with little success. The
few that were collected marched five miles up the Potomac; and early in the
morning of the 25th orders were given for the assembling the troops at Montgom
ery Court-house, and on the 26th General Winder, with the troops there assembled,
took up their line of march for Baltimore.
The President and heads of departments, after their narrow escape at Bladens-
burgh, concluded to leave the remaining events of the day to the direction of Gen
eral Winder, and returned to the city. Judging that the American officers, on
608 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
their return from the field of battle, would need refreshments, the President had
ordered an elegant entertainment prepared for them at his house. As soon as it
was determined that the city was not to be defended, the Cabinet retired to Mont
gomery Court-house.
In the meantime, the British advanced from Bladensburgh without further oppo
sition; and at eight o'clock in the evening General Ross entered the city at the
head of eight hundred men. Having arrived on Capitol Hill, he offered terms of
capitulation, which were, that the city might be ransomed for a sum of money
nearly equal to the value of the public and private property it contained; an<i that
on receiving it the troops should retire to their ships unmolested.
There being neither civil nor military authorities in the city to whom the prop
ositions could be made, the work of conflagration commenced. The Capitol, the
President's house, the offices of the Treasury, War and Navy departments, and
their furniture, with several private buildings, were destroyed. The party sent to
burn the President's house entered it and found in readiness the entertainment
whicli had been ordered for the American officers. In the dining hall the table
was spread for forty guests, the sideboard furnished with the richest liquors, and
in the kitchen the dishes all prepared. These uninvited guests devoured the feast
with little ceremony, ungratefully set fire to the building where they had been so
liberally fed, and returned to their comrades. One house from which General Ross
apprehended himself to have been shot at was burned, and all the people found in
it slain. The most important public papers had been previously removed. The
Navy-yard, with its contents and apparatus, one frigate of the largest class on the
stocks, and nearly ready to launch, and several smaller vessels, were destroyed by
Commodore Tingey, under the direction of the Secretary of the Navy, after the
capture of the city.
The British having accomplished the object of their visit, left the city on the
25th and passed through Bladensburgh at midnight, on the route to Benedict
They left their dead unburied; such of their wounded as could ride were placed
on horseback; others in carts and wagons, and upward of ninety left behind.
The wounded British prisoners were entrusted to the humanity of Commodore
Barney, who provided everything for their comfort; and such as recovered were
exchanged and returned to the British. Two hundred pieces of artillery at the
Arsenal and Navy-yard fell into their hands, which they were unable to remove;
these they spiked, knocked off the trunnions and left. Their retreat, though un
molested, was precipitate, and conducted under evident apprehensions of an at
tack. They reached Benedict on the 29th, and embarked on the 30th."
The loss of the public property destroyed by the British exceeded one
million of dollars. Twenty Americans were killed and forty wounded. The
British loss, from the time of their landing to their embarkation, was esti
mated at one hundred and eighty killed and one hundred and fifty wounded.
The Washington Congressional Cemetery is about one mile and a half from
the capitol. It embraces an area of about ten acres, situated in the eastern
section of Washington, near the eastern
branch of the Potomac. It is laid out
with trees and shrubbery. Every mem
ber of congress who dies while a mem
ber, has a monument erected to his mem
ory, inscribed with his name, the state
from whence he came, the time of his
death, etc. These monuments are all of
sandstone, painted white, precisely of one
fashion, and of a form perhaps the best
that can be devised for durability. At
FORM OF THK CONGBESSIONAL MONUMENTS. present there are about 130 in the inclo-
sure, some 50 of which are in the north-east corner of the ground, the re-
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 609
mainder in the southern part. The cemetery was commenced in 1807, and
about 6,000 persons have been here interred. The following inscriptions are
copied from monuments within it :
To the memory of GEORGE CLINTON. He was born in the state of New York, on the 26th
of July, 1739, and died at the City of Washington, on the 20th April, 1811, in the 73d year
of his age. He was a soldier and statesman of the revolution. Eminent in council,
distinguished in war, he filled with unexampled usefulness, purity and ability, among
many other high offices, those of governor of his native state, and vice-president of the
United States. While he lived, his virtue, wisdom and valor, were the pride, the ornament
and security of his country ; and when he died, he left an illustrious example of a well-spent,
life, worthy of all imitation.
PUSH-MA-TA-HA, a Choctaw chief, lies here. This monument to his memory is erected by
his brother chiefs, who were associated with him in a delegation from their nation, in the
year 1824, to the general government of the United States. He died in Washington, on
the 24th of December, 1824, of the croup, in the 60th year of his age. Push-ma-ta-ha waa
a warrior of great distinction. He was wise in council, eloquent in an extraordinary de
gree, and on all occasions, and under all circumstances, the white man's friend. Among his
last words were the following : " When lam gone let the big gwis be fired over me."
Sacred to the memory of Maj. Gen. JACOB BROWN. By birth, by education, by principle,
devoted to PEACE. In defense of his country, and in vindication of her Rights, a WABRIOB.
To her he dedicated his life. Wounds received in her cause, abridged his days. In war
his services are attested by the fields of CHIPPEWA, NIAGARA, ERIE. In peace by the im
proved organization and discipline of the army. In both by the thanks of the Nation, and
a golden medal by the hands of the chief magistrate, and by this marble, erected to honor
him at the command of the congress of the United States. He was born in Bucks county,
Pennsylvania, on the 9th of May, 1775, and died at the City of Washington, commanding
General of the army, on the 24th Feb., 1828.
Let him whoe'er in after days
Shall view this monument of praise,
For Honor heave the Patriot sigh
And for his country learn to die.
ALEXANDER MACOMB, Major General commanding-in-chief of the United States Army,
died at Washington, the seat of government, 25 June, 1841. " It were but a small tribute
to say that in youth and manhood he served his country in the profession in which he died,
during a period of more than forty years, without a stain or blemish upon his escutcheon.
[General orders War Department.] The honors conferred on him by President Madison,
received on the field of victory for distinguished and gallant conduct in defeating the enemy
at Plattsburg, and the thanks of congress bestowed with a medal commemorative of this tri
umph of the Arms of the Republic, attest the high estimate of his gallantry and meritorious
services." [General orders War Department.]
ABEL PARKER UPSHER, born in Northampton county, Virg., June 17th, 1790. Appointed
Judge of the General Court of Virginia, Dec. 15th, 1826 ; Secretary of the Navy, Sept. 13th,
1841 ; Secretary of State, July 24th, 1843. Died Feb. 28th, 1844.
BEVERLY KENNON, Captain in the United States Navy, and Chief of the Bereau of Con
struction and Equipment, born in Mecklenburgh county, Vir., April 7th, 1795. Entered
the Naval service May 18th, 1809, died Feb. 28th, 1844. The lamented who lie together be
neath this stone were united by the ties of Friendship, which commenced in youth and ex
perienced no interruption until the awful moment when the lives of both were terminated
by the explosion of the great gun of the Princeton frigate. " United in life, in death they
are not divided."
The eccentric Lorenzo Dow lies buried in the old graveyard north of the
President's mansion. His monument is a plain slab of red free-stone, and
has upon it the following inscription :
The Repository of LORENZO Dow. who was born in Coventry, Connecticut, Oct. 15, 1777.
Died Feb., 1834, aged 56.
"A Christian is the highest style of man."
He is—
"A slave to no sect, takes no private road,
But looks through nature up to nature's God."
•-
610
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
Georgetown is situated on the north-east bank of the Potomac, 2 miles
from Washington, from which it is separated by Rock River, over which are
two bridges. The situation is pleasant: commanding a fine view of the Po
tomac River, and the City of Washington. The lofty eminences that over
look the town from the north and west, are known as the Hights of George
town. Along these elevations, gentlemen of wealth, and those holding high
official stations, have built their dwellings, with beautiful gardens and grounds
attached. The city was formerly of much commercial importance, and is
now a thriving and busy place. It is connected by the Ohio and Chesapeake
Canal with the Cumberland coal region, and with the West Indies and the
Aqueduct and Catholic College, Georgetown.
commercial ports in the United States by lines of packets. The flour ex
ported from this place has a high reputation. Georgetown was originally
laid out by an act of the colonial legislature in Maryland, in 1751. In 1789
the town was incorporated. The city contains about 12,000 inhabitants.
The Aqueduct over the Potomac is a stupendous work, constructed by Maj.
Trumbull, of the topographical engineers, and cost nearly $2,000,000. It has
nine piers, whose foundations, which are of granite, are no less than thirty-
six feet under water, and rise above the river about forty feet. Georgetown
College is situated on the hights, rising immediately from the aqueduct in
the western part of Georgetown. This is a Catholic institution; its first
building was constructed in 1789, and in 1815 congress raised it to the rank
of a university. The Academy of the Visitation was founded in 1799. The
ladies who are entrusted with the direction and care of the studies, are mem
bers of the religious order founded in 1610, by St. Frances de Sales. The
Female Seminary, founded by Miss Lydia English, has long enjoyed a high
reputation. The Georgetown Cemetery is located on a beautiful spot, shaded
by forest-trees, on Rock creek. It was laid out under the direction and ex
pense of W. W. Corcoran, the celebrated banker.
VIRGINIA
VIRGINIA is distinguished as the largest and the earliest settled of the
original thirteen States. In 1584, Queen Elizabeth of England granted to
Sir Walter Raleigh a patent, giving
him authority to discover, occupy and
govern "remote, heathen and barba
rous countries" not previously pos
sessed by any Christian prince or peo
ple. Under this commission, Amidas
and Barlow, with two ships, arrived in
America in July, 1584. They landed
at Iloanoke, now within the limits of
North Carolina, and took possession of
the country for the Crown of Eng
land, and named it Virginia, in honor
of the virgin queen of England. The
next year one hundred and seven ad
venturers, under Sir Richard Gren-
ville, sailed to America, and fixed their
residence on Roanoke Island, and were
placed under the command of Mr.
Lane. These persons, rambling into
the wilderness, without due caution, or
provoking the Indians by their lawless conduct, were attacked by them, so
that many were cut off, while others perished from want. The survivors were
taken to 'England the following year by Sir Francis Drake, after his expedi
tion to St. Augustine. In 1587, an expedition was made under Mr. White,
with three ships, when 115 persons were left at Roanoke. It was three years
before any supplies were sent to the colony, and when Governor White ar
rived in 1590, no Englishmen were to be found, and it was evident that they
had perished with hunger or had been slain by the savages. The last adven
turers, therefore, returned, and all further attempts to settle Virginia were
postponed.
The first grant from the crown of England under which permanent set
tlements were made in Virginia and New England was dated April 10, 1006.
By this charter, King James assigned all the lands between 34 and 45 de
grees of latitude, all of which was then called Virginia, By this instrument
two companies were formed; one, called the London company, had assigned
to it all the lands between 34 and 41 degrees of latitude, extending inland
39 (611)
Aims OF VIRGINIA.
Motto Sic Setnper Tyrannis — Thus may it ever be
with Tyrants.
612 VIRGINIA.
from the coast one hundred miles, and all the islands within one hundred
miles of the main land. To the other, called the Plymouth company, were
assigned the lands between 38 and 45 degrees of latitude, with all the isles
within one hundred miles. The first tract was called South Virginia, and the
other North Virginia. By a charter granted in 1609, King James incorpo
rated the London company with full powers of government in America; the
boundaries of Virginia were also enlarged, particularly westward, unto the
main land "throughout from sea to sea."
The London company, soon after its incorporation, toward the close of the
year 1606, sent Capt. Newport to Virginia with a company of 104 adventur
ers. As the usual course from England to America at that time was by the
West Indies, Newport did not arrive until the end of April, 1607. Entering
Chesapeake Bay, he gave name to Cape Henry, sailed into Powhattan or
James Hiver, and began a plantation called Jamestown, in which he left 104
persons and then returned to England. Before Newport left for America, a
sealed box was placed in his hands, with directions that it should not be
opened until twenty-four hours after the emigrants had landed in America.
When opened, it was found to contain the names of the council and instruc
tions for their guidance. In the list were the names of Gosnold, Smith, Wing-
field and Newport.
Capt. John Smith, one of the above named council, was quite distinguished
as a traveler, and celebrated for his daring military exploits while in the service
of the Emperor of Austria in his war against the Turks. His superior talents,
and the fame which he had acquired, seem to have excited the envy of his
companions. While yet at sea he was accused of an intention of murdering
the council, usurping the government, and making himself king of Vir
ginia. Upon these absurd charges he was put in confinement, and a vote
passed excluding him from the council, after which he was released.
The emigrants appeared to have taken but little care to provide for their fu
ture subsistence or preservation. They planted nothing the first year, and
the provisions they brought from England were soon consumed. In four
months famine and the diseases of a hot and damp climate swept away fifty
of their number. These distresses led them to reflect upon their situations
and conduct. Having become sensible of their injustice to Smith, they, at
his request, granted him a trial, which resulted in an honorable acquittal.
His personal talents were now appreciated, and by his advice a fort was erected
for defense against the Indians. To procure provisions he made frequent and
distant excursions into the wilderness. Sometimes he procured supplies by
caresses, sometimes by purchase, and sometimes he resorted to stratagem and
violence. While exploring the river Chickahominy he was surprised, at
tacked and made prisoner by a party of Indians.
The Indians, exulting in their capture of Smith, conducted him in triumph
through several towns to their king Powhattan. At the end of six weeks, it
was decided that he should die. He was led forth to execution; his head
was placed upon a stone, and an Indian stood near with a club, the instru
ment of death. At this critical moment JPocahontas, the young and darling
daughter of Powhattan, rushed between the executioner and the prisoner,
folded his head in her arms, and entreated her father to spare his life. The
king relented, directed Smith to be conducted to a wigwam or hut, and soon
after sent him, under an escort of twelve guides, to Jamestown.
When Smith arrived at Jamestown he found the number of settlers re
duced to thirty-eight, and most of these had determined to abandon the coun-
VIRGINIA. f)1.3
try, when, through entreaties and threats, he succeeded in making them re
linquish their design. By his influence among the Indians he was able to ob
tain provisions, which preserved the colony from famine. Pocahontas, who
had preserved the life of Smith, still continued her kind offices, and sent him
such articles as were most needed. Capt. Newport, who had returned to Eng
land, again arrived at Jamestown with supplies and one hundred and twenty
additional emigrants. The hopes of the colonists .were now revived ; but as
the newly arrived settlers were mostly gentlemen, refiners of gold, jewelers,
etc., a wrono; direction was given to the industry of the .colonists. Believing
that they had discovered grains of gold in a stream north of Jamestown, all
other pursuits were abandoned in order to obtain the precious metal. "Im
mediately," says the historian, "there was no thought, no discourse, no hope
and no work, but to dig gold, wash gold, refine and load gold;" and, notwith
standing the remonstrances of Smith, a ship loaded with a worthless commod
ity was sent to England.
Smith finding he could not make himself useful at Jamestown, spent some
time in exploring the coasts of the Chesapeake. On his return he found the
people turbulent and discontented with their president, whom they charged
with squandering the public property, which resulted in their deposing him
and choosing Smith in his place. He at first declined, but after a while they
persuaded him to accept the office. Under his administration, habits of in
dustry and subordination were formed, and peace and plenty soon followed.
He gave the "goldsmiths and gentlemen" their choice, to labor six hours a day
or have nothing to eat. He represented to the council in England that they
should send laborers instead of gentlemen, that the search for gold should be
abandoned, and that "nothing should be expected except by labor."
The London company having obtained a new charter, conferring greater
power and privileges than the former, in 1G09 dispatched Sir George Somers
and Sir Thomas Gates for Virginia with nine ships and five hundred adven
turers. Before they arrived they were overtaken by a tremendous tempest,
and the ship in which the officers embarked was driven on the rocks of the
Bermudas. The settlers in the seven vessels which arrived in Jamestown
were for the most part licentious, profligate and disorderly persons, who uu-'
dertook the disposing of the government among themselves. Smith, how
ever, by his judicious measures, restored for a time regularity and obedience.
The Indians becoming jealous of the increasing power of the English,
formed a plot for their destruction. Pocahontas having knowledge of the
conspiracy hastened during a dark arid stormy night to Jamestown and in
formed Smith of his danger, so that measures of precaution were used. The
Indians perceiving their design was discovered again brought presents of
peace to the English. Smith having by accident received a severe wound
was obliged to return to England to obtain the assistance of a surgeon. On
his departure subordination and industry ceased, their provisions were soon
consumed, the Indians became hostile, and a famine soon ensued. In six
months anarchy and vice had reduced the number of the colony from four
hundred and ninety to'sixty, and these were so feeble and dejected that if re
lief had not been soon obtained they must have perished. To such extrem
ities were they reduced that they devoured the skins of horses, the bodies of
the Indians whom they had killed, and even their own companions who had
perished under their accumulated sufferings. These shocking miseries were
recollected long afterward with horror, and the period was remembered and
distinguished by the name of the "STARVING TIME."
614 VIRGINIA.
While the colony was in this situation they were visited by Sir Thomas
Gates and others, who had been shipwrecked on the rocks of the Bermudas.
Such was the wretched condition and prospects of the settlers that all deter
mined to abandon the country and return to England. For this purpose the
remnant of the colony embarked on board of the ships just arrived and
sailed down the river; but the next day meeting Lord Delaware with fresh
supplies, they all returned and prosecuted the planting of the country. In
1611 Sir Thomas Gates, who succeeded Lord Delaware as governor, arrived
with six ships, two hundred and eighty men and twenty women, one hundred
cattle, two hundred hogs, military stores and other necessaries. This rein
forcement, with that under Sir Thomas Dale a short time previous, gave sta
bility to the colony, and new towns were founded.
At the first settlement at Jamestown it was directed that all the land should
be owned in common, and the produce of the labor of all should be deposited
in the public stores. In such circumstances, it soon appeared that no one
would labor with the same steadiness and animation as if he alone was to
possess and enjoy the fruit of his industry. But now different regulations
were adopted. To each inhabitant three acres of land were assigned in full
property, and he was permitted to employ in its cultivation a certain portion
of his time. The good effects of this plan were immediately seen, and soon
after another assignment of fifty acres was made, and the plan of working in
a common field to fill the public stores was entirely abandoned.
Early in 1614, Sir Thomas Gates embarked for England, leaving the admin
istration of the government in the hands of Sir Thomas Dale, who ruled with
wisdom and vigor, and made several valuable changes in the land laws of the
colony. In 1616, he appointed George Yeardley deputy-governor and re
turned to England. During the administration of Yearclley, the culture of
TOBACCO, a native plant of the country, was introduced, which soon became
not only the principal export but even the currency of the colony. In 1617.
Argall became deputy-governor; he ruled with tyranny, and was guilty of
such fraudulent transactions that he was soon displaced and Yeardley ap
pointed governor. Under his administration the planters were released from
further service to the colony, martial law was abolished, and the first colo
nial assembly ever held in Virginia was held in Jamestown. The colony
was divided into eleven boroughs, and two representatives, called burgesses,
were chosen from each. The enactments of the house of burgesses, when
sanctioned by the governor and council, and ratified by the company in Eng
land, became the law of the country.
Emigrants from England continued to arrive, but nearly all were men who
came for the purpose of obtaining wealth, and intended eventually to return.
In order to attach them permanently to the colony, 90 young women of
reputable character were first sent over, and in the following year 60 more,
to become wives to the planters. The expense of their transportation was
paid by the planters. The price was, at first, one hundred, and afterward,
one hundred and fifty pounds of tobacco, then selling at three shillings to the
pound ; and it was ordained that debts contracted for 'wives should have the
preference to all others.
Beside the transportation of reputable people, the king commanded the
treasurer and council of the Virginia company to send to Virginia 100 dis
solute persons then in confinement for their offenses. They were distributed
through the colony as laborers. The transportation of these vicious persons,
though designed as a benefit, yet eventually proved detrimental to the inter-
VIRGINIA. 615
ests of the colony. In 1620, a Dutch man-of-war entered James River,
with twenty Africans, whom they SOLD FOR SLAVES. This was the com
mencement of African, or negro slavery in the English colonies. The col
ony was now in the full tide of prosperity; its numbers had greatly in
creased, and its settlements widely extended. At peace with the Indians,
they reposed in security, and had bright prospects for the future, when a ter
rible reverse befell them.
On the 27th of March, 1622, 343 of the Virginia colonists were cruelly
massacred by the Indians. Opecancanough, the successor of Powhattan, was
a chief of superior abilities, but a secret and implacable enemy of the whites.
By his arts and eloquence, he united all the neighboring tribes in the horri
ble design of destroying every man, woman and child in the English settle
ment. The plot was matured with great secrecy and dissimulation. Whilo
intent on their destruction, they visited the English in their settlements,
lodged in their houses, bought their arms, and even borrowed their boats, so
that they could the better accomplish their murderous purpose. On the
evening before the massacre, they brought them presents of game ; and the
next morning came freely among them as usual. Suddenly, at mid-day, the
savages fell upon the unsuspecting settlers, and men, women and children
were murdered precisely at the same time in the various settlements. The
massacre would have been more extensive, had not a domesticated Indian re
vealed the plot to his master, whom he had been solicited to slay. Inform
ation was instantly given to some of the nearest settlements, just in time to
put them on their guard, and save themselves from the calamity which fell
upon others. An exterminating war now followed on both sides. The
whites were victorious, destroying many of the Indians, and obliging the re
mainder to retire far into the wilderness ; but their own number melted away
before the miseries of war ; of 80 plantations which were fast advancing to
completion, eight only remained ; famine now prevailed, and of the numer
ous people who had been transported to Virginia at a great expense, only
1,800 survived these disasters.
The settlement of Virginia by the London company proved an unprofita
ble enterprise, and as the holders of the stock were numerous, their meet
ings became scenes of political debate, in which the advocates of liberty
were arrayed against the upholders of the royal prerogative. King James,
disliking the freedom of these debates, revoked the charter which he had
granted, and committed the affairs of the colony to the management of a
governor and twelve counsellors, who were to be appointed by the king.
The dissolution of the London company produced no immediate change in
the domestic government of the colony. On the death of James I, in 1625,
his son, Charles I, succeeded him, who paid but little attention to Virginia.
In 1628, Harvey, an unpopular member of the council, was appointed gov
ernor. Such were his oppressive acts, that the Virginians, in a fit of rage,
seized and sent him prisoner to England. King Charles, however, was in
dignant at these violent proceedings, and returned the governor, invested with
all his former powers.
In 1639, Sir William Berkeley was appointed governor, who was instructed
again to allow the Virginians to elect representatives. Such was their grat
itude to the king for this favor, tnat during the civil wars between him and
his parliament, they were faithful to the royal cause, and continued faithful,
even after he was dethroned and his son driven into exile. The parliament
of Great Britain, irritated by this conduct, in 1652, sent Sir George Ayscue,
016 VIRGINIA.
with a powerful fleet, to reduce them to submission. Berkeley, after making
a gallant resistance, was obliged to yield. For nine years afterward, govern
ors appointed by Cromwell continued to preside over the colony. Arbitrary
restrictions were laid upon her commerce, which produced discontent. At
length, when Gov. Matthews died, the adherents of the royal cause seized
the opportunity to proclaim Charles II and to invite Berkeley to resume
the authority of governor. Fortunately for the Virginians, Cromwell died
soon after, Charles II ascended the throne, and Sir William Berkeley was
confirmed as governor, whereupon Virginia boasted that she was the last to
acknowledge the authority of Cromwell, and the first that returned to her
allegiance to the throne.
Although Virginia had shown such loyalty to the royal authority, yet her
interests were neglected, and several additional restrictions were laid upon
her commerce. Charles II even granted to his favorites large tracts of land
which belonged to the colony. These injuries produced murmurs and com
plaints, and finally open and turbulent insurrection. Nathaniel Bacon, a
member of the council, young, bold and ambitious, with an engaging person
and commanding eloquence, was at the head of the insurrectionary move
ments. At this time an Indian war prevailed, but the measures of defense
which Berkeley had adopted were so unsatisfactory, that the people, with
Bacon at their head, demanded permission to rise and defend themselves.
This the governor refused. The Indian aggressions increasing, Bacon,
yielding to the common voice, placed himself at the head of 500 men, and
commenced his march against them. He was immediately proclaimed trai
tor by Berkeley, and troops were levied to pursue him. Bacon continued
his expedition, which was successful, while Berkeley was obliged to recall
his troops to suppress an insurrection in the lower counties.
The great mass of the people having arisen, Berkeley was compelled to
yield to the popular voice, and Bacon was appointed commander-in-chief.
When he was proceeding against the Indians, Berkeley withdrew across the
York Iliver to Gloucester, summoned a convention of loyalists, and again
proclaimed Bacon a traitor. Enraged at this conduct, Bacon returned with
all his forces to Jamestown. The governor had fled, the council dispersed,
and he found himself in possession of supreme power. Some districts re
mained faithful to Berkeley, who made inroads into those sections where Ba
con's authority was recognized. This was retaliated, and for months a civil
war, with all its horrors, prevailed : Jamestown was burnt, and some of
the finest and best cultivated districts were laid waste. In the midst of
these disorders, Bacon, who exercised the supreme power for seven months,
suddenly sickened and died. His party, now left without a leader, after
a few petty insurrections, dispersed, and the authority of the governor was
restored.
Governor Berkeley, finding the rebels in his power, pursued them with
great rigor. Many were tried by courts martial, and executed. The assem
bly interfered to stop the work of death, and enacted laws which restored
tranquillity. Berkeley soon after returned to England, and was succeeded by
Col. Jeffries. Under his administration, peace was concluded with the In
dians, and notwithstanding the oppressive restrictions on commerce, the col
ony increased in wealth and population. In 1688, the number of inhabit
ants exceeded 60,000. Between this period and the French and Indian wars,
but few prominent events occurred in the history of Virginia. Its position,
remote from the settlements of the French in Canada, and the Spaniards in
VIRGINIA. 617
Florida, was favorable to its quiet. Its affairs were administered by govern
ors appointed by the king, and representatives by the people. These repre
sentatives at various times attempted to arrest the introduction of African
slaves into the colony, but those who were in higher authority than them
selves, yielded to the wishes of the merchants engaged in the traffic, and per
sisted with obstinacy in withholding their assent.
During the French and Indian wars, encroachments were made upon the
western territory of Virginia, by the erection of forts within her original
charter limits. The Ohio company, to whom these lands had been granted,
complained to Dinwiddie, governor of Virginia. The governor determined
to send a messenger to the commander of the French forces on the Ohio,
and require him to withdraw his troops. For this mission he selected
GEORGE WASHINGTON, who was then twenty-one years of age. The answer
of the French commander to Dinwiddie's letter proving unsatisfactory, a
body of 400 men were raised in order to drive the French from the Ohio.
This force, in the spring of 1754, advanced into the territory in dispute, un
der the command of Washington. On his route he met and defeated an ad
vance party, under Jumonville. He then proceeded toward Fort Du Quesne,
at the junction of the Monongahela and Alleghany. From this fort, De
Villiers, at the head of 900 men, marched out to attack him. Washington
having retired to a small work called Fort Necessity, which he had hastily
thrown up, after a brave defense, capitulated on the honorable terms of re
tiring unmolested to Virginia. In 1755, Gen. Braddock, who had been sent
over from England to drive the French from the Ohio, arrived in Virginia.
With a force of more than 2,000 men, composed of British regulars and pro
vincials, he advanced with high hopes of success toward Du Quesne. When
within about ten miles of the fort, he fell into an ambush of French and
Indians ; he was killed, and his troops totally routed. The cool address and
bravery of Washington, who covered the retreat with the provincial troops,
saved the army from entire destruction.
In the revolutionary war, Virginia took a noble stand in resistance to
British oppression. Such was the spirit shown by the people, that Lord
Durmiore, the royal governor, seized by night some of the powder which be
longed to the colony, and conveyed it on board a British ship in James River.
Intelligence of this transaction reaching Patrick Henry, he placed himself
at the head of the independent companies in his vicinity, marched toward
the seat of government, and demanded the powder or its value. Payment
being made, the people quietly retired to their homes. Other causes in
creasing the popular ferment, Dunmore left his palace and went on board of
a ship of war then lying at Yorktown. He now issued a proclamation, offer
ing freedom to those slaves belonging to rebel masters, who should join the
British troops at Yorktown. Several hundred in consequence repaired to
that place. A body of militia immediately assembled, and when posted near
the city, were attacked by the regulars, loyalists and negroes. The attack
was repelled by the militia, who gained a decisive victory. Lord Dunmore
now evacuated the city, and followed by his white and black forces, sought
refuge on board of the king's ships. Soon after this event, on the 1st of Jan
uary, 1776, Norfolk was set on fire by Dunmore's orders, and reduced to
ashes.
Early in 1781, Gen. Arnold was dispatched with about 1,700 men to make
a diversion in Virginia, by calling the attention of the Virginians from Lord
Cornwallis, then approaching the state from the Carolinas. Gen. Philips,
618 VIRGINIA.
with 2,000 troops, was sent from New York to reinforce him. The British
troops were employed for a long time, without much interruption, in destroy
ing the warehouses, tobacco mills, etc., on the James and Appomattox Rivers,
and property to an immense amount was sacrificed. Gen. Cornwallis, after
the severe action at Guilford, retired to Wilmington, in North Carolina. His
troops suffered great distress from the want of provisions and clothing. Hey
therefore, determined to force a march through a wilderness country, and join
the troops under Gen. Philips, in Virginia. He arrived in May, and took the
command of the united forces. Alter some predatory warfare, Cornwallis
encamped at Yorktown and Gloucester Point, on York River, which affords
deep water for shipping, and there he fortified his camps; the main body of
the army being on the south side of the river at Yorktown. There he re
mained until he was obliged to surrender to the combined French and Amer
ican forces, under Washington, October 19, 1781. This event decided the
revolutionary contest.
The first constitution of Virginia in which her people took part, was formed
in 1776. It was soon found to be unequal in its operations; and at the close
of the war much discussion arose upon the subject of its improvement. It
was riot, however, essentially altered until 1830, when it underwent import
ant modifications. In the early part of 1813, during "the war of 1812," the
bays of Chesapeake and Delaware were declared to be in a state of blockade,
and to enforce it, fleets entered their waters under Admirals Warren, Cock-
burn and Beresford. Several villages were plundered and burnt, and at
Hampton, the inhabitants were subjected to the grossest outrages from a bru
tal soldiery.
Virginia having an extensive territory, and many slaves, has ever been
watchful in regard to this class of her population. About the year 1800, a
well-organized insurrection of slaves in the immediate vicinity of Richmond,
was mercifully prevented by the timely discovery of a young slave, and the
sudden rise in the river rendering it impossible. In August, 1831, Nat. Tur
ner, a fanatical slave, in Southampton county, moved, as he said, by certain
appearances in the sun, collected a body of u'O or 70 slaves, and commenced
the work of indiscriminate massacre. Fifty men, women and children were
murdered before the insurrection could be suppressed. In October, 1859,
JoJm Brnwii, who had taken an active part in the border difficulties in Kan
sas, having located himself, under an assumed name, at Harper's Ferry,
made an insane attempt, with 22 followers, to excite a rising among the slaves
and run them off to Canada. Thirteen of the insurgents were killed, and
seven persons lost their lives in suppressing the raid. Brown and six others
were captured, brought to trial, found guilty of murder and treason, and the
whole seven executed.
Virginia is distinguished for the unusual proportion of eminent men she
has given to the services of our common country. WASHINGTON, the Gen
eral; JEFFERSON, the Statesman; and HENRY, the Orator of the American
revolution, were Virginians; and prior to the election of Buchanan, half of
the presidents of the United States — seven out of fourteen — were born on her
venerated soil. It is, therefore, a natural result that the sentiment of state
pride, justly founded on the achievements of her sons, should be a peculiar
characteristic of her people.
Virginia is bounded N. by Pennsylvania; on the N. E. by the Poto
mac, 'which separates it from Maryland; on the E. by the waters of Chesa-
VIRGINIA. (319
peake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean ; on the S. by North Carolina and a part
of Tennessee ; on the W. by Kentucky, and on the N. W. by Ohio. It lies
between lat. 36° 33' and 40° 43' north, and extends 75° 25' to 83° 40' of
west longitude. Its length from east to west is 370 miles; its greatest
breadth 200, and its exact area is officially stated at 61,352 square miles.
The surface of the state is greatly diversified, insomuch that those familiar
with its topography have considered its soil and climate under several dis
tinct zones or divisions. ' The eastern section is generally a low country,
with a soil partly sandy and partly alluvial, abounding in swamps and unpro
ductive tracts; and toward the sea-coast and along the margin of rivers, noted
for the prevalence of fatal epidemics during the season extending from Au
gust to October. From the head of tide-waters, the hilly and mountainous
district commences. In this region the soil becomes more fertile and the
climate more genial. Across this portion of the state stretch the widest bases
of the towering Alleghanies, "the spine or back bone of the country." Be
tween the numerous ridges of these mountains are extensive and beautiful
valleys, having a soil of the richest quality, a healthy and delightful climate,
and the most picturesque and magnificent natural scenery. Beyond these
lofty eminences lies a third section, extending to the Ohio River in one di
rection, and to the Cumberland Mountains in another. This likewise is an
elevated and broken region, less fertile than the middle section, but having
pure water and a healthy atmosphere.
No state in the Union has within its limits such a variety of soil, climate
and productions as Virginia. The chief agricultural productions are Indian
corn, tobacco and wheat. In the culture of tobacco, Virginia has surpassed
all other states of the Union. She is also rich in mineral resources : vast fields
of bituminous coal abound in the vicinity of Richmond, on the North Poto
mac, and west of the Alleghany Mountains ; large beds of anthracite coal lie
beyond the Great Valley. Valuable mines of iron, copper, gold, salt, and
many other minerals, are fcmnd within her borders. In the middle section
of the state, numerous medicinal springs abound, which attract many visitors.
In 1790, Virginia was the most populous state in the Union, numbering
748,308 inhabitants; in 1830 it had 1,211.405; in 1850, 1,421.661, of whom
895,274 were whites, 53,829 free colored, and 472,528 slaves.
RICHMOND, the capital and largest town in Virginia, is situated on the
north side of James River, at the Great Falls, distant 117 miles from Wash
ington City, 342 from New York, 1055 from New Orleans, 520 from Cincin
nati, 423 from Charleston, and 106 from Norfolk. Its situation is healthy
and highly picturesque. With but few exceptions, the streets cross each
other at right angles, are lighted with gas, and the houses are well built.
Shockoe and Richmond Hills stand opposite each other — Shockoe creek pass
ing between them. The capitol is on Shockoe Hill, on a commanding situa
tion, in the center of a beautiful square of eight acres. The marble statue
of Washington, in the hall of the capitol building, was the work of Houdon,
a French sculptor. It was made by the order of the Virginia assembly, at
Paris, under the direction of Jefferson, a few years after the close of the
American revolution. The costume of this statue is the military dress of the
revolution. One hand holds a cane, the other rests upon the /axccs, with
which are united the sword and plowshare, and over it a martial cloak. The
inscription, by James Madison, on the pedestal, is as follows :
620
VIRGINIA
GKORGK WASHINGTON. The General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Virginia have
caused this statue to be erected, as a monument of affection and gratitude to GEORGE WASH
INGTON", who, uniting to the endowments of the hero the virtues of the patriot, and exerting
both in establishing the liberties of his country, has rendered his name dear to his fellow-
citizens, and given the world an immortal example of true glory. Done in the year of
Christ, one thousand seven hundred and eighty-eight, and in the year of the commonwealth
the twelfth.
The City Hall is an elegant and costly building. The Penitentiary, which
stands in the western suburbs of the city, has a front of 300 feet in length
W. S. W. view of Richmond,
As seen from the Cemetery, or Canal Hill. The James River, or Lynchlmrg Canal and James River, are in
front. The State House, City Hall and the Governor's House appear in the distance on the left; the
Railroad Bridge ovar James River, on the right ; the Flour Mills and Foundries in the central part.
and 110 feet in depth. The city contains about 30 churches, for various de
nominations ; 2 colleges, one founded by the Baptists in 1822, the other (St.
Vincent's College) by the Catholics. It also contains the medical depart
ment of the Hampden and Sidney College. By means of canals and rail
roads, the commerce of Richmond has been much extended, and its popula
tion and business rapidly increased. Richmond possesses an immense water-
VIRGINIA.
021
power, derived from the falls of James River, on which are situated extensive
mills and factories. Population in 1850, 27,570, and in 1860, 37,968.
A magnificent contribution of Virginia to the art of the country, is the co-
ssal equestrian statue of Washington, in bronze, on the ennitol am
lossal equestriai
igton, in bronze, on the capitol square, at
Washington Monument, Richmond.
Richmond. It is from the design of Crawford, and is regarded as one of the
greatest triumphs of American art. "The statue of Washington, on horse
back, small as it seems in the picture, is twenty-five feet high. Among the
figures who surround the base of the equestrian statue, are Lee, Mason, Nel
son, Patrick Henry, and Jefferson. Each is in an appropriate attitude :
while Patrick Henry leans forward, with his arms outstretched as if in the
act of addressing an audience, Jefferson thoughtfully studies, pen in hand,
the declaration of independence. It is known that the design of this noble
monument was completed in a few days by our illustrious countryman. He
accidentally noticed in a newspaper an announcement that the city of Rich
mond, Virginia, had appropriated a sum of money for a Washington monu
ment, and invited designs from sculptors, when he immediately made his de
sign, forwarded it, and obtained the contract. It was, one can easily believe,
a labor of love with him ; and the result will do equal honor to his fame and
to the liberality of the city in which the monument stands. The artist did
not live to see the monument erected, dying a few months previous." The
day of the inauguration of this great work — February 22, 1858 — was an
eventful one in Richmond. Never before was so large a multitude assembled
within the city — never before so many of the distinguished men of the na
tion. After the procession, civic and military — under Maj. Gen. Taliaferro as
chief marshal — had arrived on the grounds of the capitol square, the cere
mony of inauguration opened with prayer by Rev. F. J . Boggs, Grand Chap-
f,22 VIRGINIA.
lain of the Grand Lodge of Virginia, when Hon. Robert (I. Scott delivered
an oration, chiefly on Washington's history as a mason. On the conclusion
of the masonic ceremonies, Governor Wise advanced upon the platform
and made, impromptu, a brief, patriotic address. He was followed by John
K. Thompson. Esq., in a poem, and he in turn by an oration from Hon. II.
M. T. Hunter, orator of the day. James Barren Hope, Esq., then delivered
a poem, at the close of which the statue was unvailed amid the roaring of
artillery and the huzzas of the assembled thousands. In the evening the city
was illuminated, and a grand reception was given by Virginia, in the form of
a banquet, to her distinguished guests.
St. John's Church, on Richmond Hill, is the oldest colonial place of wor
ship in the town. It is preserved with religious care, and has been some
what modernized by the addition of a tower. This church stands in the
center of a graveyard, embosomed by trees, where all around, in crowded
hillocks, are the mansions of the dead.
It was here, in the Virginia convention of '75, that Patrick Henry thundered
against the common oppressor of America, and uttered that immortal sentence,
" Gice me liberty \ or give me death !"
The celebrated Virginia convention of '88, that met to ratify the federal consti
tution, assembled within its walls. The transcendent talents engaged in its dis
cussion "tempted industry to give up its pursuits, and even dissipation its objects."
for the high intellectual feast here presented. Amonjj; the crowd, from lar and
near, who tilled the hall, "no bustle, no sound was heard, save only a slight move
ment when some new speaker arose, whom they were all eager to see as well as to
hear; or when some master-stroke of eloquence shot thrilling along their nerves,
uud extorted an involuntary and inarticulate murmur. Day after day was this
banquet of the mind and the heart spread before them, with a delicacy and variety
which could never cloy." Among its illustrious members were Madison, Marshall
and Monroe; and "there were those sages of other days, Pendleton and Wythe;
there was seen the Spartan vigor and compactness of George Nicholas; and there
shone the radiant genius and sensibility of Grayson; the Roman energy and Attic
wit of George Mason was there; and there also the classic taste and harmony of
Edmund Randolph; 'the splendid conflagration' of the high-minded Innis, aud the
matchless eloquence of the immortal Henry!"
Although Richmond is a comparatively modern town, yet its site is fre
quently alluded to in the early history of Virginia. The first mention of it
is in 1609, when Master West, in a scarcity of provisions, went up from
Jamestown to the falls of James River, as the place was then called, to pro
cure food, but found nothing edible except acorns. In the same year West
was sent with a colony of 120 men to settle at the falls. These settlers, find
ing so many "inconveniences" attending their situation, soon abandoned the
place.
Richmond was established a town by law in the reign of George II, May, 1742,
on land belonging to Col. William I>yrd, who died in 1744. The locality was an
ciently called Byrd's Warehouse. That gentleman, at the time, had a warehouse
near where the Exchange Hotel now is. The seat of a Col. Byrd is thus described
in 13urnaby's Travels in North America in 1759-60. He "has a small place called
Belvidere, upon, a hill at the lower end of these falls (James River), as romantic
and elegant as anything I have ever seen. It is situated very high, and com
mands a tine prospect of the river, which is half a mile broad, forming cataracts
in the manner above described. There are several little islands scattered care
lessly about, very rocky and covered with trees, and two or three villages in view
at a small distance. Overall these you discover a prodigious extent of wilderness,
and the river winding majestically along through the midst of it."
In 1777 the assailable situation of Williamsburg to the aggressions of the enemy
occasioned the assembly of the state to remove the troops, arms and ammunition,
VIRGINIA. (J23
together Avith the public records, to Richmond; and, partially from the same cause,
and the extension of the population westward, an act was passed, May, 1779, to re
move the seat of government here. At this time, Richmond \vas an insignificant
place, scarcely affording sufficient accommodations for the officers of the govern
ment. The legislature bestoAA'ed upon it the name of a city; but it Avas then only
a city in embryo, with scarcely anything of interest except the grandeur of its nat
ural scenery. The analogy of the situation of the place to that of Richmond-on-
the Thames, in England, suggested the name the town bears. The public build
ings were temporary. The old capitol, which was private property, Avas a Avooderi
structure, long since destroyed.
In January, 1781, Richmond was inAraded by the traitor, Arnold, who
landed, on the 4th, from the British fleet at Westover, with a force of about
1,000 men, and inarched across the country to Richmond. Afterburning
some public and some private buildings, as well as a large quantity of tobac
co, the enemy completed their incursion without loss, in 48 hours from the
time of their landing.
The most melancholy event in the history of the town was the burning of
the Richmond theater, on the night of Dec. 26, 1811, by which the governor
of the state, and a large number of others perished. The subjoined account
was published in the Richmond Standard, the following day :
Last night the play-house in this city was croAvded Avith an unusual audience.
There could not have been less than 600 persons in the house. Just before the
conclusion of the play, the scenery caught fire, and in a few minutes the whole
building was Avrapped in flames. It is already ascertained that 01 persons were
devoured by that most terrific element. The editor of th is paper Avas in the house
Avhen the ever-to be-rernembered deplorable accident occurred. He is informed
that the scenery took lire in the back part of the house, by the raising of a chan
delier; that the boy Avho Avas ordered by some of the players to raise it, stated that
if he did so, the scenery Avould take fire, when he was commanded in a peremp
tory manner to hoist it. The boy obeyed, and the fire instantly communicated to
the scenery. He gave the alarm .in the rear of the stage, and requested some of
the attendants to cut the cords by which the combustible materials were sus
pended. The person Avhose duty it Avas to perform this became panic struck, and
sought his own safety. This unfortunately happened at a time Avhen one of the
performers Avas playing near the orchestra, and the greatest part of the stage, with
its horrid danger, was obscured from the audience by a curtain.
The flames spread with almost the rapidity of lightning; and the fire falling
from the ceiling upon the performer, was the first notice the audience had of their
danger. Even then, many supposed it a part of the plaAr, and were a little time
restrained from flight by a cry from the stage that there was no danger. The per
formers and their attendants in vain endeavored to tear down the scenery; the fire
flashed in every part of the house with a rapidity horrible and astonishing; and,
alas ! gushing tears and unspeakable anguish deprived me of utterance. No per
son who was not present can form any idea of this unexampled scene of distress.
The editor, having none of his family Avith him, and not being far f im the door,
was among the first who escaped.
No Avords can express his horror Avhen, on turning round, he discovered the
whole building to be in flames. There Avas but one door for the greatest part of
the audience to pass. Men, women and children were pressing upon each other,
while the flames were seizing those behind. The editor went to the different \vin-
doAA's, which were very high, and implored his fellow-creatures to save their lives
by jumping out of them. Those nearest the windoAVs, ignorant of their danger,
were afraid to leap down, while those behind them were seen catching on fire, and
writhing in the greatest agonies of pain and distress. At length those behind,
urged by the pressing flames, pushed those Avho were nearest to the window, and
people of every description began to fall one upon another, some \vith their clothes
on fire, some half roasted. Oh, wretched me ! Oh, afflicted people ! Would to
God I could have died a thousand deaths in any shape, could individual suffering
624
VIRGINIA.
have purchase-' die safety of my friends, my benefactors, of those whom I loved!
.... The edit, r, with the assistance of others, caught several of those whom he
had begged to leap from the windows. One lady jumped out when all her clothes
were on tire. He tore them burning from her, stripped her of her last rags, and,
protecting her nakedness with his coat, carried her from the fire. Fathers and
mothers were deploring the loss of their children, children the loss of their pa
rents ; husbands were heard to lament their lost companions, wives were bemoan
ing their burnt husband. The people Avere seen wringing their hands, beating
their heads and breasts ; and those who had secured themselves, seemed to suffer
greater torments than those enveloped in the flames.
Burning of the Richmond Theater.
The above engraving of the burning of the theater at Richmond, on the night of Dec. 20, 1811, is a re
duced copy from one published at Philadelphia, by B. S. Tanner, in the February following.
A sad gloom pervades this place, and every countenance is cast down to the
earth. The loss of a hundred thousand friends on the field of battle could not
touch the heart like this. Enough. Imagine what can not be described. The
most distant and implacable enemy, and the most savage barbarians, will mourn
our unhappy lot. All of those in the pit escaped, and had cleared themselves from
the house, before those in the boxes could get down; and the door was for some
time empty. Those from above were pushing each other down the steps, when
the hiridermost might have got out by leaping into the pit. A gentleman and lady,
who otherwise would have perished, had their lives saved by being providentially
thrown from the second boxes. There would not have been the least difficulty in
descending from the first boxes into the pit.
In addition to the list now given, it is believed that at least GO others perished,
•whose names are not yet ascertained.
George W. Smith, governor, A. B. Venable, president of the bank, Benjamin Botts, wife
and niece, Mrs. Taylor Braxton, Mrs. Patterson, Mrs. Gallcgo, Miss Conyers, Lieut. J. Gib
bon, in attempting to save Miss Conyers ; Mrs. E. Page, Miss Louisa Mayo, Mrs. Wm. Cook,
Miss E. Coutts, Mrs. J. Leslie, Miss M. Nelson, Miss Nelson, Miss Page, Wm. Brown, Misa
Julia Harvey, Miss Whitlock, George Dixon, A. Marshall (of Wythe), broke his neck in at-
VIRGINIA.
625
tempting to jump from a window, Miss Ann Craig, Miss Stevenson (of Spottsylvania), Mrs.
Gibson, Miss Maria Hunter, Mrs. Mary Davis, Miss Gerard, Thomas Lecroix, Jane Wade,
Mrs. Picket, Mrs. Heron, Mrs. Laforest and niece, Jo. Jacobs, Miss Jacobs, Miss A. Baus-
man, Miss M. Marks, Edward Wanton, jr., two Misses Trouins, Mrs. Gerer, Mrs. Elicott,
Miss Patsey Griflin, Mrs. Moss and daughter, Miss Littlepage, Miss Rebecca Cook, Mrs.
Girardin and two children, Miss Margaret Copeland, Miss Gwathincy, Miss Clay, daughter
of M. Clay, member of congress, Miss Gatewood, Mrs. Thomas Wilson, Win. SouthgatC,
Mrs. Robert Greenhow, Mrs. Convert and child, Miss Green, Miss C. Raphael.
At a meeting of the commissioners appointed by the Common Hall to superintend the
interment of the remains of their friends and fellow-citizens, who unfortunately lost their
lives in the conflagration of the theater, the following resolutions were adopted :
1. That the citizens of Richmond and Manchester, and the citizens at present residing in
either of those places, be requested to assemble to-morrow, the 2Hth inst., at 10 o'clock, P.
M., at the Baptist meeting-house, for the purpose of attending the funeral.
2. That the following be the order of procession: corpses, clergy, mourners and ladies,
executive council, directors of the bank, judiciary, members of the legislature, court of
hustings, common hall, citizens on foot, citizens on horseback.
WM. HAY, JR. JOHN ADAMS,
J. G. GAMBLE, GAB. RALSTON.
Petersburg, a well built and flourishing town, is situated on the south bank
of the Appomattox River, 22 miles south from Richmond, on the line of the
great railroad route between New York and New Orleans. The South Side
Railway comes in here from Lynchburg, 133 miles distant ; another road,
10 miles long, connects it with City Point, on James River. It is the third
town in Virginia, in population, and has some important manufactories.
The falls of the river above Petersburg furnish extensive water power. It has
several cotton and other factories, and numerous mills of various kinds.
Population, is about 16,000.
The old Blandford Church, in the vicinity of Petersburg, is one of the
most picturesque and interesting ruins in Virginia. It stands in the midsts
of a burial ground, upon an emi-
nence overlookin
ancient and
Blandford, commanding
sive and variegated prospect
the site of the
of
an exten-
for
now extinct village
miles around. The edifice is built
in the form of the letter T, with a
short column. Some of the most
distinguished of Virginia's aristoc
racy worshiped within its walls, for
Blandford was the focus of fashion
and refinement, while Petersburg
"was rudely struggling" for her
present pre-eminence. " But the glo
ry of the town and its church is de
parted ; Blandford is now only a su
burban hamlet of Petersburg, and
the old temple dismantled of its interior decorations, is left to the occu
pancy of the bats and owls."
" Lone relic of tho past, old moldering pile,
Where twines the ivy round thy ruin gray,
Where the lone toad sits brooding in the aisle,
Once trod by ' lady fayre ' and gallant gay 1
Yet they are here ! the learned and the proud,
Genius and worth and beauty — they are here!
I stand rebuked amid the slumbering crowd,
While time-past voices touch the spirit's ear."
BLANUFORD CHURCH.
G26 VIRGINIA.
As early as 1645-6, a fort, called Fort Henry, was established at the falls
of the Appomattox, where Petersburg now is, for the defense of the inhab
itants on the south side of James River.
In 1675, war being declared against the Indians, 500 men were ordered to
proceed to the frontier, an'd eight forts garrisoned. Among these was the
one near the falls of the Appomattox, at Maj. Gen. Wood's, " or over against
him at oneffort or defensible place at ffleets, of which Maj. Peter Jones be
captain or chief commander."
In 1728, fifty-three years after, Col. Byrd, on his return from the expedi
tion in which he was engaged as one of the Virginia commissioners, in run
ning the line between this state and North Carolina, mentions the site of Pe
tersburg as follows : " At the end of thirty good miles, we arrived in the
evening at Col. Boling's, where from a primitive course of life we began to
relax into luxury. This gentleman lives within hearing of the falls of Ap
pomattox River, which are very noisy whenever a flood happens to roll a
greater stream than ordinary over the rocks. The river is navigable for
small craft as high as the falls, and, at some distance from them, fetches a
compaSvS and runs nearly parallel with James River, almost as high as the
mountains."
By an act passed in 1646, it appears that 600 acres of land adjacent to
Fort Henry, together with all the " houses and edifices " appurtenant thereto,
were at that time granted to Capt. Abraham Wood, in fee-simple ; yet he
was not the earliest settler ; for, by the same act, it appears that the land on
which the fort stood, together with part of the adjacent 600 acres, had been
granted to Thomas Pitt. He may, therefore, be considered the earliest pro
prietor of the site of Petersburg, it having been granted to him previous to
1646. The town derived its name from Peter Jones, who opened a trading
establishment with the Indians at an early day, a few rods west of what is
now the junction of Sycamore and Old-streets. The locality was called Pe
ters Point, subsequently changed to Petersburg.
In the war of the revolution, Petersburg was twice visited by the enemy.
On the 22d of April, 1781, the British, under Gen. Phillips, left Williams-
burg, sailed up the James, and on the 24th landed at City Point. " The
next day," says Girardin's Hist, of Va., "they marched up to Petersburg,
where Baron Steuben received them with a body of militia somewhat under
1,000 men. Although the enemy were 2,000 strong, Steuben opposed their
progress. For two hours he skillfully and bravely disputed the ground with
them ; the assailants were twice broken, and precipitately ran back until sup
ported by fresh troops. During the interval of time just stated, they gained
but a mile, and that by inches. The inferiority of the Virginians in num
bers obliged them to withdraw about 12 miles up the Appomattox, till more
militia should be assembled. They retired in good order over a bridge,
which was taken up as soon as the militia passed, so as to secure their re
treat. The whole loss of the Virginians, in killed, wounded and taken,
amounted to about 60. That sustained by the enemy, was conjectured to be
more considerable."
NORFOLK CITY is situated on the north bank of Elizabeth River, 106
miles S. E. from Richmond, 8 miles from Hampton Roads, and 32 from the
sea. The site of the city is low, and in some parts marshy, but the princi
pal streets are well paved. It is the second city, in population, in Virginia,
and has more foreign commerce than any other place in the state, and, to-
VIRGINIA.
627
gether with Portsmouth, is the most important naval station in the Union.
Population, is about 18,000. The harbor of Norfolk is spacious, easy of ac
cess, admitting vessels of the largest class to come to the wharves. The
entrance between Old Point Comfort and the Rip Raps, is more than a
mile wide, defended by Forts Monroe and Calhoun. The former, on Old
Point Comfort, including the ditch or moat, covers 70 acres of ground.
View of the Harbor of Norfolk and Portsmouth.
The Hospital Landing and Wharf appear in front; Norfolk Court House on the extreme left; the Cus
tom House ilk the central part ; the steam ferry across the river to Portsmouth, with the passing boats, on
the right.
This work, which is on a peninsula, is calculated for 335 guns of the largest
class. Fort Calhoun on the opposite side of the river, covers about seven
acres, for which a solid foundation was prepared by throwing stones into the
flats, and suffering them to settle for several years before erecting the super
structure. This work will mount 265 guns. These fortifications complete
ly command the entrance to the harbor from Hampton Roads.
YELLOW FEVER AT NORFOLK AND PORTSMOUTH.
On the 21st of June, 1855, the Ben Franklin arrived at the port of Nor
folk, coming directly from the island of St. Thomas, W. I., where, on her
departure, the yellow fever had prevailed. She was permitted to go to Gos-
port, where she underwent some repairs. It appears that two of the crew
died of the fever, though the fact was not admitted by the captain. The
first person who died at Portsmouth was a young man who, on the 3d of
July, had assisted in the repairs of the ship. He was taken sick on the 5th.
and died on the 8th of that month. Others were taken sick and died, and
up to the 1st of August, with one exception, all these cases were traced to
Gosport. This day, hot and sultry, was the gloomiest in the history of
Portsmouth. "A single object arrested the attention. A wagon, covered
with white, and having a mattress lying on its floor, attracted the gaze of the
terrified inhabitants ; and nothing was thought of, nothing talked of, but the
40
628 VIRGINIA.
impending calamity, as this vehicle, freighted with its fevered occupants,
passed slowly through the streets on its way to the hospital."
The panic became general ; and all who could possibly get away deserted
business and home, and fled from the doomed city. The steamboats were
crowded daily, and were compelled to leave hundreds behind. "Every avail
able shelter in the surrounding country was brought into requisition. Nearly
two thirds of the white population had left the town before the middle of
August. The surrounding inhabitants were so much alarmed that they es
tablished rigid quarantine regulations against the people of Norfolk and
Portsmouth : at Suffolk, Isle of Wight county, Hampton, "Weldon, and even
at Old Point Comfort, the citizens of Norfolk and Portsmouth were met on
the wharf by armed sentinels, and precluded from effecting a landing."
The first case in Norfolk was on the 15th of July. The scourge reached
its acme about the last of August, and continued without abatement until
the middle of September. After this it gradually declined, probably for
want of subjects, and was finally arrested by frost and ice on the 26th of
October. About 2,000, or about one fourth of the population remaining in
the city died. The greatest mortality in Portsmouth was on Sept. 2d. The
last person died of the fever on the 10th of November. The disease ex
isted as an epidemic nearly four months, and out of a population of 4,000, who
remained in the city, nearly 1,000 died. Twenty-seven volunteer physicians
came to Portsmouth ; eight of these died, and only six escaped sickness.
Five resident physicians and three clergymen of Portsmouth, and eight of
the physicians of Norfolk died. Contributions for the relief of those suf
fering from this scourge were sent from various places in the United States.
The " Howard Association of Norfolk " received for this purpose $157,237.72.
The amount received at Portsmouth was upward of $86,000.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Cedar Grove
Cemetery, Norfolk: the last from the Elm wood Cemetery adjoining:
To the memory of the Rev. ENOCH M. LOWE, pastor of Christ's Church, who departed thi3
life on the 26th day of Feb., 1823, in the 33d year of his age. The Flock of his charge, by
whom he was admired and beloved as a faithful Shepherd, a zealous and able divine, a kind
and good man, have deposited his remains in testimony of their respect and affection, and
in honor of his worth.
No more his warning voice our ears shall hear,
Mute is his tongue, which called so oft, prepare !
Let us his admonition now improve,
If we would hope to follow him above.
The church in which at first he was deposited having been destroyed by fire, his remains
were disintered and again buried beneath this spot on the 20th day of November, A. D. 1827.
In memory of JOHN COWPER, Esq., who died on the llth of Feb., 1847, aged 84 years
The deceased was a distinguished citizen of Norfolk for 50 years ; he at different periods
discharged the duties of Mayor, President of the Dismal Swamp Canal Company ; Secretary
of the Marine Insurance Co., etc., with fidelity and great ability. " Blessed are the dead who
die in the Lord."
In memory of NATHAN COLEGATE WHITEHEAD, M. D., who was born in Southampton Co.,
Va., on the 8th day of April, 1792, and died in the city of Norfolk, on the 21st day of July,
1856. He was Mayor of Norfolk during the latter part of the pestilence of 1855, perform
ing the duties of his office without fear and with consummate judgment, and was himself
attacked by the fever, from the effects of which he died the following year. As a tender
Husband and affectionate Father, as a Citizen, enterprising, firm and patriotic; as a Magis
trate, blending mercy with justice, and above all, a Friend to the friendless, he was univer
sally lamented when dead ; as a Sinner he knelt humbly at the foot of the cross. Gradu
ated at the University of Pennsylvania, on the 8th day of April, 1815. Intermarried with
Elizabeth Grigeby, on the 16th day of Jan., 1817.
VIRGINIA. 629
Erected by the Masonic Fraternity of the city of Norfolk, to perpetuate a remembrance
of the many virtues of their amiable and distinguished brother, Past Master GKORGE L. UP-
SHUE, M. D., who while in the philanthropic discharge of his duties fell a victim to the de
vastating scourge of 1855. Born in Northampton Co., Va., Jan. 14, A. L. 5822, A. D. 1822.
Died in Norfolk, Sept. 19, A. L. 5855, A. D. 1855, aged 33 years and 8 mo.
Portsmouth is immediately opposite Norfolk, on the south bank of the Eliz
abeth River, here three fourths of a mile wide. It contains the court house
of Norfolk county. The United States Navy-yard is situated in that part
of the town known as Gosport, where has been constructed a large and costly
dry-dock, and extensive buildings, work-shops, etc., used in the construction
of naval architecture. The Virginia Literary, Scientific and Military Acad
emy was established here in 1840. The United States Naval Hospital is
situated a short distance from the navy-yard. Population about 11,000.
The town was established in 1752, and located on the lands of Wm. Crafford.
It is now composed of Portsmouth, Gosport and Newtown, the whole being
under the same municipal government.
Norfolk and its vicinity was the scene of some important events in the rev
olutionary war. The British fleet, to which Lord Dunmore had fled at the
outbreak of hostilities, made Norfolk harbor its principal rendezvous.
The administration of Virginia directed all their attention upon this part of the
state, where they perceived the danger most formidable. Dunmore, alarmed at
their preparations, constructed batteries and intrenchments at Norfolk, armed the
blacks and tories, and forced the country people to drive their cattle and convey
provisions to the town. The government of \ irginia dispatched, with all speed, a
detachment of minute-men, under the command of Col. Woodford into the county.
"Dunmore," says Botta, "apprized of this movement, very prudently occupied a
strong position upon the north bank of the Elizabeth River, called Great Bridge, a
few miles from Norfolk This point was situated upon the direct route of the pro
vincial troops. Here he threw up works upon the Norfolk side, and furnished
them with a numerous artillery. The intrenchments were surrounded on every
part with water and marshes, and were only accessible by a long dike. As to the
forces of the governor, they were little formidable : he had only 200 regulars, and
a corps of Norfolk volunteers ; the residue consisted in a shapeless mass of varlets
of every color. The Virginians took post over against the English, in a small vil
lage at a cannon-shot distance. Before them they had a long narrow dike, the ex
tremity of which they also fortified. In this state the two parties remained for
several days without making any movement."
An ingenious stratagem precipitated the operations. A servant of Maj. Mar
shall's (father of the chief-justice), being properly instructed, deserted to Dunmore,
and reported that there were not at the bridge more than 300 shirt-men, as the Vir
ginians, who mostly wore hunting-shirts, were contemptuously called. Believing
the story, Dunmore dispatched about 200 regulars, and 300 blacks and tories to the
Great Bridge; who arrived there on the morning of the 9th of December, 1775,
and, just as the reveille had done beating, made an attack upon the Virginians.
They were signally defeated, and lost 102 in killed and wounded.
" Although the greater part of the loyalists of Norfolk and its environs had
sought refuge in the governor's fleet, there had, nevertheless, remained a consid
erable number of them; either on account of their reluctance to leave their prop
erties, or their dread of the sea and of famine, or perhaps because they hoped to
find more lenity on the part of their fellow-citizens who made profession of liberty,
than they had shown toward them when they had been superior in this country.
"But it is certain that the patriots, on acquiring the ascendancy, made them feel
it cruelly, and overwhelmed them with all those vexations of which there are so
many examples in civil wars, between men and different parties. The governor,
transported with rage, and touched by the piteous cries of the loyalists, panted to
avenge them. This reciprocal hatred was daily exasperated by the rencounters
which took place very frequently between the two parties; the provincials, watch-
630 VIRGINIA.
ing at all points of the shore to prevent the royal troops from landing, in order to
forage in the country, and the latter, on the contrary, eagerly spying every means
to plunder provisions upon the American territory. The multitude of mouths to
be fed, kept them constantly in a famishing state. A ship-of-war arrived in the
meantime, in the bay of Norfolk. Lord Dunmore sent a flag on shore to apprize
the inhabitants that they must furnish provisions, and cease firing, otherwise he
should bombard the town. The provincials answered only by a refusal. The gov
ernor then resolved to drive them out of the city with artillery, and to burn the
houses situated upon the river. He sent in the morning to give notice of his de
sign, in order that the women, children, and all except combatants, might retreat tc
a place of safety."
On the 1st of January, 1776, "between three and four o'clock in the afternoon,
a heavy cannonade from the frigate Liverpool, two sloops-of-war, and the ship Dun-
more, opened against the town. Under cover of the guns, several parties of ma
rines and sailors were landed, and set fire to the houses on the wharves. As the
wind blew from the water, and the buildings were chiefly of wood, the flames rap
idly spread. The efforts of the American commanders and their men to stop the
progress and ravages of the fire proved ineffectual. The conflagration raged for
nearly three days, and consumed about nine-tenths of the town. Scarcely can
even the strongest imagination picture to itself the distress of the wretched inhab
itants, most of whom, friends or foes, saw their homes, their property, their all, an
indiscriminate prey to the irrepressible fury of the flames. The horrors of the
conflagration were hightened by the thunder of cannon from the ships, and mus
ketry of the hostile parties that encountered each other in sharp conflict near the
shore, and on the smoking ruins of the dovoted town. In these encounters, the
British were uniformly repulsed, and driven back to their boats with shame and
loss. Of the Americans, by a singular good fortune, none were killed, and only
five or six men wounded, one of whom mortally. Some women and children were,
however, reported to have lost their lives. In this affair, the intrepid Stevens
still added to his fame. At the head of his hardy, indefatigable, and irresistible
band, he rushed with the rapidity of lightning to the water-side, struck a large
party of British, who had just landed there, and compelled them to retire with
slaughter and in dismay, to the protection of their wooden walls. In general, dur
ing the whole of this afflicting scene, both officers and men evinced a spirit worthy
of veterans.
11 Such was the melancholy event which laid prostrate the most flourishing and
richest town in the colony. Its happy site, combining all those natural advantages
which invite and promote navigation and commerce, had been actively seconded
by the industry and enterprise of the inhabitants. Before the existing troubles, an
influx of wealth was rapidly pouring into its lap. In the two years from 1773 to
1775, the rents of the houses increased from 8,000 to 10,OOOZ a year. Its popula
tion exceeded 6,000 citizens, many of whom possessed affluent fortunes. The whole
actual loss, on this lamentable occasion, has been computed at more than three
hundred thousand pounds sterling; and the mass of distress attendant on the
event is beyond all calculation."
Williamsburg is situated on a level plain between James and York Rivers,
58 miles from Richmond, 68 from Norfolk, and 7 from Jamestown. It is
the oldest incorporated town in the state. This immediate vicinity was first
known as the Middle Plantations, and was settled in 1632, principally from
Jamestown, and in 1698 the seat of government was removed here from that
place. From this period until the year 1679, when Richmond became the
seat of government, Williamsburg was the center of the fashion, wealth and
learning of the "Old Dominion." William and Mary College, now the prin
cipal support of the town, was founded in 1692, in the reign of William and
Mary, who granted it a donation of 20,000 acres of land. It is, with the
exception of Harvard University, the oldest literary institution in the Union.
It is distinguished for the large proportion of its graduates who have risen
VIRGINIA.
631
THE OLD MAGAZINE.
to eminent station in the nation. On the 3d of February, 1859, the college
building was destroyed by fire.
On the town square stands the old magazine, built about 130 years since,
and memorable, as being the building from whence Lord Dunmore, in 1774,
removed the powder belonging
to the colony on board the Mag
dalen man-of-war, which arbi
trary act threw the whole of Vir
ginia into a state of ferment, and
occasioned the first assembling
of an armed force in the colony
in opposition to the royal au
thority.
At the head of a small but
beautiful grassy court, called the
Palace Green, are two small brick
structures, the remains of the
Palace of Lord Dunmore, the
last of the colonial governors.
Here he resided in great state,
surrounded by the pomp and
ageantry of vice-royalty. At that time the adjacent grounds, comprising
~0 acres, were beautifully laid out, with carriage roads winding through
them. Numerous lindens were imported from Scotland, one or two of which
now remain, and are admired for their magnificence and beauty. The palace
was accidentally destroyed by fire during its occupancy by some French
troops immediately after the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown.
On the beautiful green fronting the college, stands the statue of Lord Bo-
tetourt, one of the colonial governors. It is much mutilated, though still
presenting a specimen of elegant sculpture. He appears in the court-dress
of that day, with a short sword at his side. It was erected in 1774, at the
expense of the colony.
Lord Botetourt was distinguished for love of piety and literature. His
arrival as governor of the colony, in Oct., 1768, was greeted with public re
joicings becoming the loyal subjects of his majesty. u Immediately upon
his arrival the city was illuminated, and all ranks vied with each other in tes
tifying their gratitude and joy, that a nobleman of such distinguished merit
and abilities was appointed to preside over and live among them." In the
Virginia Gazette, of the time, the following "Ode of Welcome" was published:
VIRGINIA'S ODE OF WELCOME TO LORD BOTETOURT, OCT., 1768.
RECITATIVE.
VIRGINIA, see, thy GOVERNOR appears !
The peaceful olive in his brow Ite wears !
Sound the shrill trumpets, beat the rattling drums ;
From Great Britannia's isle his LORDSHIP comes.
Bid Echo from the waving woods arise,
And joyful acclamations reach the skies ;
Let the loud organs join their tuneful roar,
And bellowing cannons rend the pebbled shore :
Bid smooth James River catch the cheerful sound,
And roll it to Virginia's utmost bound ;
While Rappahannock and York's gliding stream,
Swift shall convey the sweetly pleasing theme
632 VIRGINIA.
To distant plains, where pond'rous mountains rise,
Whose cloud capp'd verges meet the bending skies
The LORDLY PRIZE the Atlantic waves resign,
And now, VIRGINIA, now the BLESSING'S thine;
His listening ears will to your trust attend,
And be your GUARDIAN, GOVERNOR and FRIEND.
AIR.
He comes ! his EXCELLENCY comes,
To cheer VIRGINIAN plains !
Fill your brisk bowls, ye loyal sons,
And sing your loftiest strains.
Be this your glory, this your boast,
LORD BOTECOURT'S the favorite toast ;
Triumphant wreaths entwine ;
Fill full your bumpers swiftly round,
And make your spacious rooms rebound
With music, joy and wine.
RECITATIVE.
Search every garden, strip the shrubby bowers,
And strew his path with sweet autumnal flowers !
Ye virgins, haste, prepare the fragrant rose,
And with triumphant laurels crown his brows.
DUET.
Enter virgins with flowers, laurels, etc.
See, we've stript each flowery bed ;
Here's laurels for his LORDLY HEAD ;
And while VIRGINIA is his care,
May he protect the virtuous fair.
AIR.
Long may he live in health and peace,
And ev'ry hour his joys increase,
To this let ev'ry swain and lass
Take the sparkling, flowing glass ;
Then join the sprightly dance, and sing,
Health to our GOVERNOR, and GOD saw the KING !
VIRGINS.
Health to our GOVERNOR.
BASS SOLO.
Health to our GOVERNOR.
CHORUS.
Health to our GOVERNOR, and GOD save the KING !
It was in the "old capital" at Williamsburg — destroyed by fire in 1832 —
that Patrick Henry made his debut in the House of Burgesses. It was here,
also, that occurred that touching incident in the life of Washington, who,
having been complimented in glowing terms by the speaker, Mr. Robinson,
for his gallantry in the French and Indian war, rose to give his acknowledg
ments for the honor, but was so overcome by modesty that he could not utter
a single intelligible word, when the speaker, observing his embarrassment, re
lieved him by a masterly stroke of address, saying, with a conciliating smile,
11 Sit down, Mr. Washington; your modesty is equal to your valor, and that sur
passes the power of any language that I possess.'1
The first newspaper printed in Britsh America was in Boston, in 1704,
and in 1719 the second was issued, in the same city. In 1725 a newspaper
was first printed in New York ; from this time they were gradually extended
through the continent.
VIRGINIA.
633
"In 1671, Sir William Berkeley 'thanks God there are no free schools
nor printing [in Virginia] — and hopes we shall not have these hundreds of
years to come.' The first printing press erected in Virginia, in 1682, was
shortly after put down."
The first newspaper published in Virginia, was the Virginia Gazette, the
first number of which was issued August 6, 1736. From the Virginia Ga
zette of 1776, are extracted the following marriage notices, which, according
to the custom of the times, are accompanied by some poetic lines :
Mr. WILLIAM DERRICOAT, of Hanover, to Miss SUCKEY TOMKIES, of Gloucester, daughter
of Col. Francis Tomkies.
Her's the mild luster of the blooming morn, Long may they live, and mutually possess,
And his the radiance of the rising day. A steady love and genuine happiness.
On Sunday last, Mr. BEVERLY DIXON to Miss POLLY SAUNDERS, a very agreeable young
lady.
Sprightly graces too descend,
And the beauteous bride attend.
Here no sordid interest binds,
But purest innocence and love
Combined unite their spotless minds,
And seal their vows above.
Hymen, thy brightest torch prepare,
Gild with light the nuptial bower,
With garlands crown this lovely pair,
On them thy choicest blessings shower.
Cupids lightly sport and play,
Hymen crowns the happy day ;
Captain SAMUEL DENNY, of the artillery, to Miss FALLEN, of Northumberland.
May peace and love the sacred band unite,
And eaual joy, yield equal sweet content.
Jamestown, the first settlement in British America, was settled by Capt.
John Smith and his companions, May 13, 1607. The site of the place was
a point of land projecting into James River, but now, by the encroachment
of the water, it is changed into an island. This interesting spot is about 60
miles E. S. E. from Richmond and 7 from Williamsburg. Near the point
of the island are the ruins of an ancient church. "This crumbling pile, sur
rounded by shrubbery, bram
bles and tangled vines, and the
old church wall of English
brick, inclosing a few broken
monuments, half buried inearth
or covered with a pall of ivy and
long grass, are all the tangible
records that remain of the first
planting of an English colony
in America."
Every year the current of
James River is changing its
banks; a large portion of it
whereon the ancient town was
RUINS AT JAMESTOWN. erected has been washed away,
and the channel of the river is
gradually approaching the old church tower, and if its progress is not ar
rested in a few generations more, not a vestige of Jamestown will remain.
Yorlctown is situated, on a high bluff, on the south bank of York River,
11 miles from its mouth and 70 E. S. E. from Richmond. The peninsula on
634 VIRGINIA.
which the town stands is level, and is embraced on each side by deep ravines,
which almost meet in the rear. The ground is the highest upon either the
York or James rivers below Richmond. It was first settled in 1705, and was
once a nourishing village. The town will ever remain memorable on account
of the surrender of Lord Cornwallis, which took place here, October 19,
1781. The following narrative of this important event, which decided the
revolutionary contest, is from "Holmes' Annals:"
" Yorktown is a small village on the south side of York River, whose southern
banks are high, and in whose waters a ship of the line may ride with safety.
Gloucester Point is a piece of land on the opposite shore, projecting deeply into the
river. Both these posts were occupied by Lord Cornwallis, and a communication
between them was commanded by his batteries and by some ships of war. The
main body of his army was encamped on the open grounds about Yorktown,
within a range of outer redoubts and field works ; and Lieutenant-colonel Tarle-
ton, with a detachment of six or seven hundred men, held the post at Gloucester
Point. The legion of the Duke de Lauzun, and a brigade of militia under Gen
eral Weeden, the whole commanded by the French General De Choise, were di
rected to watch and restrain the enemy on the side of Gloucester; and the grand
combined army, on the 30th of September, moved down to the investiture of York-
town. In the evening, the troops halted about two miles from York, and lay all
night on their arms. Causeways having been constructed in the night over a mo
rass in front of the British works, the continental infantry marched the next morn
ing in columns to the right of the combined forces. A few cannon shot were fired
from the British work on the Hampton road, and some riflemen skirmished with
the pickets of the Anspach battalions on the left. The two armies cautiously ob
served each other, but nothing material occurred until evening, -when an express
boat arrived at Yorktown with a letter from Sir Henry Clinton to Earl Cornwallis,
giving him assurance that joint exertions of the army and navy would be made
for his relief. To this letter is attributed an order for the British troops to quit
the outward and retire to the inner position, in compliance with which that move
ment was effected before daybreak. The next morning Colonel Scammell, with a
reconnoitering party, falling in with a detachment of picked dragoons, was driven
back, and in attempting a retreat was mortally wounded and taken prisoner.
He was an officer of great merit, and his death was deeply lamented. In the
course of the forenoon, the allies took possession of the ground that had been
abandoned by the British.
On the 9th and 10th of October the French and Americans opened their bat
teries. On the night of the llth the second parallel was opened within three hun
dred yards of the British lines. Two redoubts, advanced in front of the British
works, annoying the besiegers in their trenches, it was proposed to carry them by
storm. The redaction of one redoubt was committed to the French, of the other
to the Americans. The Marquis de Lafayette commanded the American detach
ment of light infantry against the redoubt on the extreme left of the British
works, and the Baron de Viominel led the French grenadiers and chasseurs against
that which was farther toward the British right and nearer the French lines. On
the evening of the 14th the two detachments moved firmly to the assault. Colonel
Hamilton led the advanced corps of the Americans, and Colonel Lawrence, at the
head of eighty men, turned the redoubt, in order to take the garrison in reverse
and intercept their retreat. The troops rushed to the assault with unloaded arms,
and in a few minutes carried the redoubt with inconsiderable loss. The French
were also successful. The redoubt assigned to them was soon carried, but with
less rapidity and greater loss. These two redoubts were included the same night
in the second parallel, and facilitated the subsequent operations of the besiegers.
On the 16th a sortie was made from the garrison by a party of three hundred
and fifty, commanded by Lieutenant-colonel Abercrombie, who forced two bat
teries and spiked eleven pieces of cannon, but the guards from the trenches immedi
ately advancing on them they retreated, and the pieces which they had hastily spiked
were soon rendered fit for service. In the afternoon of the same day the besiegers
VIRGINIA. 635
opened several batteries in their second parallel, and in the whole line of batteries
nearly one hundred pieces of heavy ordnance were now mounted. The works of
the besieged were so universally in ruins as to be in no condition to sustain the
fire which might be expected the next day. In this extremity Lord Cornwallis
boldly resolved to attempt an escape by land with the greater part of his army.
His plan was to cross over in the night to Gloucester Point, cut to pieces or dis
perse the troops under De Choise, and, mounting his infantry on the horses be
longing to that detachment, and on others to be seized on the road, to gain the
fords of the great rivers, and, forcing his way through Maryland, Pennsylvania,
and Jersey, to form a junction with the royal army at New York. In prosecution
of this desperate design, one embarkation of his troops crossed over to the Point,
but a violent storm of wind and rain dispersed the boats and frustrated the
scheme.
In the morning of the 17th several new batteries were opened in the second
parallel, and, in the judgment of Lord Cornwallis, as well as of his engineers, the
place was no longer tenable. About ten in the forenoon his lordship, in a letter
to General Washington, requested that there might be a cessation of hostilities
for twenty-four hours, and that commissioners might be appointed to digest terms
of capitulation. The American general in his answer declared his "ardent desire
to spare the farther effusion of blood, and his readiness to listen to such terms as
were admissible," and granted a suspension of hostilities for two hours. The
general propositions stated by Lord Cornwallis for the basis of the proposed ne
gotiation being such as to lead to an opinion that the terms of capitulation might
without much difficulty be adjusted, the suspension of hostilities was prolonged
through the night. Commissioners were appointed the next day to digest into
form such articles as General Washington had drawn up and proposed to Lord
Cornwallis"; and early the next morning the American general sent them to his
lordship with a letter, expressing his expectation that they would be signed by
eleven, and that the garrison would march out by two in the afternoon. Lord
Cornwallis, submitting to a necessity absolutely inevitable, surrendered the posts
of Yorktown and Gloucester Point, with the garrison, and the shipping in the har
bor, with the seamen, to the land and naval officers of America and France. By
the articles of capitulation, the officers were to retain their side arms and private
property. The soldiers, accompanied by a due proportion of officers, were to re
main in Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania, and the officers, not required for
this service, were to be allowed to go on parole to Europe, or to any maritime port
occupied by the English in America.
The garrison marched out of the town with colors cased, and General Lincoln,
by appointment, received the submission of the royal army precisely in the same
manner in which the submission of his own army had been previously made at
the surrender of Charlestown. *
General Washington, on this very joyful occasion, ordered that those who were
under arrest should be pardoned and set at liberty, and closed his orders in the
following pious and impressive manner: 'Divine service shall be performed to
morrow in the different brigades and divisions. The commander-in-chief recom-
*The army, with the artillery, arms, accouterments, military chest, and all public stores,
were surrendered to General Washington, the ships and seamen to the Count de Grasse.
The prisoners, exclusively of seamen, amounted to 7,073, of which number 5,950 were rank
and file.
Garrison of York - - - 3,273 Sick and wounded - - - 1,933
Garrison of Gloucester - - 744 ... 4,017
Fit for duty 4,017 Total of rank and file - - 5,950
To the 7,073 prisoners are to be added 6 commissioned and 28 non-commissioned officers
and privates, taken prisoners in the two redoubts, and in the sortie made by the garrison.
The loss sustained by the garrison during the siege in- killed, wounded and missing amounted
to 552. The loss of the combined army in killed and wounded was about 300. The allied
army to which that of Lord Cornwallis surrendered has been estimated at 16,000 men. The
French amounted to 7,000, the continental troops to about 5,500, and the militia to about
3,500.
636 VIRGINIA.
mends that all the troops that are not upon duty do assist at it with a serious de
portment, and that sensibility of heart which the recollection of the surprising
and particular interposition of divine Providence in our favor claims.' Congress
resolved to go in solemn procession to the Dutch Lutheran Church, to return
thanks to Almighty God for crowning the allied arms with success, and issued a
proclamation appointing the 13th day of December 'as a day of general thanks
giving and prayer, on account of this signal interposition of divine Providence.' "
Yorktown contained about sixty houses at the time of the siege in 1781.
A fire which occurred in 1814 destroyed much property, and from this blow
the place never recovered. At that time its old church, built a century and
a half before, was destroyed; nothing but its stone walls were left standing.
It remained thirty years in ruins, when it was repaired, or rather rebuilt, and
is now used as a place of public worship. In the old burial-ground adjoining
it are the tombs and monuments of the Nelson family, situated a few yards
from York River. One of the monuments is the work of "Mr. Saunders,
Cannon-street, London."
Upon one end are sculptured two angels' faces, one of which is breaking out from a
cloud, on which is written "All glory be to God." The other face below, with trumpet in
mouth, is heralding the above inscription. Upon the other end are also two angels' heads;
one is about receiving a crown from the hand of an invisible body hidden behind the
clouds. This monument is that of the progenitor of the Nelson family in Virginia, and
the grandfather of Gov. Nelson. He emigrated from Penrith, Cumberland county, Eng
land, which county had been transferred by Henry III to the crown of Scotland, and upon
failure of heirs reverted as a base fee to England. He was from this circumstance called
Scotch Tom. On top is the Nelson coat-of-arms, then follows the inscription:
" Hie jacet, spe certa resurgendi in Christi, THOMAS NELSON, generosus, Filius Hugonis et
Sariae Nelson de Penrith, in Comitatu Cumbriae, natus 20mo die Februarii Anno Domini
1677, vitas bene gestae finem implevit 7mo die Octobris 1745, aetatis suae 68. "
[ Translation.]
"Here lies, in certain hope of a resurrection in Christ, THOMAS NELSON, gentlemen, son
of Hugo and Sarah Nelson, of Penrith, in the county of Cumberland: born February 20,
A. D. 1677, died October 7, 1745, aged 68."
The other monument, that of Gov. Nelson's father, is also beautifully or
namented by carved work. Below is the inscription :
Here lies the body of the Hon. William Nelson, late president of his Majesty's council in
this Dominion, in whom the love of man and the love of God so restrained and enforced
each other, and so invigorated the mental powers in general, as not only to defend him from
the vices and follies of his age and country, but also to render it a matter of difficult de
cision in what part of laudable conduct he most excelled ; whether in the tender and endear
ing accomplishments of domestic life, or in the more arduous duties of a wider circuit;
whether as a neighbor, gentleman, or a magistrate ; whether in the graces of hospitality,
charity or piety. Reader, if you feel the spirit of that exalted ardor which aspires to the
felicity of conscious virtue, animated by those stimulating and divine admonitions, perform
the task and expect the distinction of the righteous man. Obit 19th of Nov., Anno Dom
ini 1772, setatis 61.
The Nelson mansion is a large two-story brick building, fronting the river on the main
street of the town. It is built on the old English model. In the war of the revolution
it was the residence of Gov. Thomas Nelson, by whose father, the Hon. William Nelson,
it was erected. Portraits of this last named gentleman and wife, which were mutilated by
the British at Hanover, where they were sent for safety, adorn its walls. During the siege
of York, the house was bombarded by the American army, and now bears marks of cannon
shot. Gov. Nelson, then in Washington's army, had command of the first battery which
opened upon the town. Rightly supposing it was occupied by British officers he pointed
the first gun against his own dwelling, and offered a reward to the artillerymen of forty
guineas for every bomb shell that should be fired into it.
Frederichsburg is situated on the south side of the Rappahannock River, 62
miles from Richmond and 56 from Washington, at the head of navigation
on the river, 152 miles from its mouth. Population about 4,000. The town was
VIRGINIA. 537
founded by law in 1727, and named Fredericksburg, from Prince Frederick,
the father of George II. Fredericksburg is a place of interest, from the fact
that Washington passed his youthful days in its vicinity.
" The birth-place of Washington is about half a mile from the junction
of Pope's creek with the Potomac, in Westmoreland county. It is upon
the " Wakefield estate," now in the possession of John E.Wilson, Esq. The
house in which the great patriot was born was destroyed before the revolution.
It was a plain Virginia farm-house of the better class, with four rooms and an
enormous chimney, on the outside, at each end. The spot where it stood is now
marked by a slab of freestone, which was deposited by George W. P. Custis,
Esq., in the presence of other gentlemen, in June, 1815. "Desirous," says
Mr. Custis, in a letter on the subject to Mr. Lossing, "of making the ceremo
nial of depositing the stone as imposing as the circumstances would permit, we
enveloped it in the 'star-spangled banner' of our country, and it was borne
to its resting-place in the arms of the descendants of four revolutionary pa
triots. * * We gathered together the bricks of the ancient chimney,
which once formed the hearth around which Washington, in his infancy, had
played, and constructed a rude kind of pedestal, on which we reverently
placed the FIRST STONE, commending it to the respect and protection of the
American people in general, and of those of Westmoreland in particular."
On the tablet is this simple inscription: " HERE, THE HTH OF FEBRUARY
(o. s.) 1732, GEORGE WASHINGTON WAS BORN."
The remains of the mother of Washington repose in the immediate vicin
age of Fredericksburg, on the spot which she herself, years before her death,
selected for her grave, and to which she was wont to retire for private and
devotional thought. It is marked by an unfinished yet still imposing monu
ment. The corner stone of this sacred structure was laid by Andrew Jack
son, President of the United States at the time, on the 7th of May, 1833, in
the presence of a grand concourse, and with most solemn ceremonial. After
the lapse of almost a quarter of a century the monument remains still unfinished.
The mother of Wash
ington resided, during
the latter part of her life,
in Fredericksburg, near
the spot where she now
lies buried. The house
of her abode, occupied of
late days by Richard
Stirling, Esq., is on the
corner of Charles and
Lewis streets. It was
here that her last but
memorable interview
with her illustrious son
took place, when she was
bowed down with age and
disease."
Soon after the birth
of Washington, his fath
er, Augustine Washing
ton, removed to an estate in Stafford county, nearly opposite Fredericksburg,
where he died April 12, 1743, and was buried at Bridges' creek. To each
WASHINGTON 's BIBTH-PLACE.
638
VIRGINIA.
of his sons he left a plantation. To his oldest survivor he left an estate on
Hunting creek (afterward Mount Yernon), and to George the lands and
house near Fredericksburg. This house was situated a short distance below
the railroad bridge, and has long since gone to decay and disappeared.
Mount Vernon, the residence of Washington, is on the western side of the
Potomac, 8 miles south from Alexandria, and 15 from Washington City.
The mansion is of wood,
cut in imitation of free
stone. The central part
was built by Lawrence
Washington, brother to the
general ; the wings were
added by the general. The
seat was named after Ad
miral Vernon, in whose ex
pedition Lawrence Wash
ington served. He be
queathed it to his brother
George, who came into pos
session of it on the death
of Lawrence, who died here
July 26th, 1752. The fol
lowing is extracted from an
account given by a visitor
at Mount Vernon :
"We crossed a brook, pass
ed through a ravine, and felt
ourselves so completely in
the midst of aboriginal, un
touched nature, that the sight
of the house and its cluster
of surrounding buildings,
came like a surprise upon
me. The approach to the house is toward the west front. The high piazza,
reaching from the roof to the ground, and the outline of the building, are familiar
to us from the engravings; but its gray and time-worn aspect must be mentioned
to those whose eyes are accustomed to the freshness of white walls, green blinds,
and painted bricks. We rode up to the piazza, but an unbroken silence reigned,
and there was no sign of life, or of any one stirring. Turning away, we passed
among the adjoining houses, occupied by the blacks, from one of which a servant,
attracted by the sound of our horses' hoofs, came out, and being recognized by my
friend, took our horses from us, and we walked toward the house. The door
from the piazza opened directly into a large room, which we entered. It was no
mere habit that lifted the hat from my head, and I stepped lightly, as though upon
hallowed ground. Finding that no one had seen us, my friend went in search of
the family, and left me to walk through the halls. From the first room I passed
into another, from which a door led me out upon the eastern piazza. A warm af
ternoon breeze shook the branches of the forest which closes in upon the house
on two sides, and breathed across the lawn and rising knolls with a delicious soft
ness. Under this piazza, upon its pavement of flat stones, Washington used to
walk to and fro, with military regularity, every morning, the noble Potomac in full
view, spreading out into the width of a bay at the foot of the mount, and the shore
of Maryland lining the eastern horizon. By the side of the door hung the spy
glass, through which he watched the passing objects upon the water. Little effort
was necessary to call up the commanding figure of the hero, as he paced to and
fro, while those pure and noble thoughts, which made his actions great, moved
RESIDENCE AND TOMB OF WASHINGTON, MT. VERNON.
VIRGINIA. 639
with almost an equal order through his simple and majestic understanding.
My friend approached and told me he had learned that the family were at din
ner, and we left the house privately and walked toward the tomb. At a short dis
tance from the house, in a retired spot, stands the new family tomb, a plain struc
ture of brick, with a barred iron gate, through which are seen two sarcophagi of
white marble, side by side, containing the remains of Washington and his con
sort. This had been recently finished, as appeared from the freshness of the
bricks and mortar, and the bare spots of earth about it, upon which the grass had
not yet grown. Jt is painful to see change and novelty in such connections, but all
has been done by the direction of Washington's will, in which he designated the
spot where he wished the tomb to be. The old family tomb, in which he was first
placed, is in a more picturesque situation, upon a knoll, in full view of the river;
but the present one is more retired, which was reason enough to determine the
wishes of a modest man. While we were talking together here, a person ap
proached us, dressed in the plain manner of a Virginia gentleman upon his estate.
This was the young proprietor. After his greeting with my friend, and my intro
duction, he conducted us to the tomb. It is now going to decay, being unoccupied,
is filling up, and partly overgrown with vines and shrubs. The change was made
with regret, but a sacred duty seemed to require it. It is with this tomb that our
associations are connected, and to this the British fleet is said to have lowered its
flags while passing up the Potomac to make the attack upon the capitol.
To one accustomed to the plantation system and habits of Virginia, this estate
may have much that is common with others, but to persons unused to this economy
the whole is new and striking. Of things peculiar to the place are a low rampart
of brick, now partly overgrown, which Washington had built around the front of
the house, and an underground passage leading from the bottom of a dry well,
and coming out by the river side at the foot of the mount. On the west side of
the house are two gardens, a green-house, and — the usual accompaniments of a
plantation — seed-houses, tool-houses, and cottages for the negroes — things possess
ing no particular interest, except because they were standing during Washington's
life, and were objects of his frequent attention. Among the things of note shown
us in the house was the key of the Bastile, sent to Washington from France at the
time of the destruction of the prison. Along the walls of the room hung engrav
ings, which were mostly battle or hunting pieces. Among them I noticed a print
of Bunker Hill, but none of any battle in which Washington himself was engaged.
The north room was built by Washington for a dining-room, and for the meeting
of his friends and political visitors. The furniture of the room is just as when he
used it, and leads us back to the days when there were met within these walls the
great men of that generation who carried the states through the revolution, laid
the foundations of the government, and administered it in its purer days. The
rooms of the house are spacious, and there is something of elegance in their ar
rangement; yet the whole is marked by great simplicity. All the regard one could
wish seems to have been shown to the sacredness of these public relics, and all
things have been kept very nearly as Washington left them."
On an adjoining page we give two fac-similes taken from the "Historical
Collections of Virginia" by Henry Howe. The first is a specimen of the
handwriting of Washington at thirty years of age, being the concluding sen
tences of a playful letter written by him to a friend. The last, the entry of
the birth of Washington, is from the family record in the Bible which be
longed to his mother. The original entry is supposed to have been made by
her. This old family Bible is in the possession of George W. Bassett, Esq.,
of Farmington, Hanover county, who married a grand-niece of Washington.
It is in the quarto form, much dilapidated by age, and with the title page
missing. It is covered by the striped Virginia cloth, anciently much used.
Alexandria is situated on the west side of the Potomac, 6 miles S. from Wash
ington. This city was included in that part of the District of Columbia ceded
to the United States by Virginia as a location for the seat of government.
VIRGINIA.
641
It was in 1834 ceded back again, with all the territory west of the Potomac,
and now belongs, as at first, to the jurisdiction of Virginia. The river oppo
site the city is a mile in width, and has a depth sufficient for vessels of the
Northern View of Alexandria, Va.
Showing its appearance at a distance when Bailing down the Potomac.
largest class. The place is pleasantly situated, commanding a fine view of
the city of Washington, and other interesting objects. It is laid out with
much regularity. The public buildings are a court-house and about twelve
churches, in one of which
Washington attended pub
lic worship while he re
sided at Mount Vernon.
There are three banks and
a number of excellent
schools. The museum in
Alexandria contains quite
a number of interesting
relics of the revolutionary
period. A considerable
amount of shipping is own
ed here, in which corn, to
bacco and stone-coal are
exported. Population about
9,000. About three miles
from Alexandria, in Fair
fax county, is the Virginia
Theological Seminary, an
institution founded in 1822
by the Protestant Episco
pal Church of the Diocese
of Virginia.
An interesting incident occurred at Alexandria in the life of Washington.
It is given below, as it has often been published :
WASHINGTON CHUKCH, ALEXANDRIA.
642
VIRGINIA.
"When Col. Washington was stationed at Alexandria, in 1754, there was an elec
tion for members of the assembly, when Mr. W. Payne opposed the candidate
supported by Washington. In the course of the contest, Washington grew warm,
and said something offensive to Mr. Payne, who, at one blow, extended him on the
ground. The regiment heard that their colonel was murdered by the mob, and
they were soon under arms, and in rapid motion to the town to inflict punishment
on the supposed murderers. To their great joy he came out to meet them, thank
ing them for such a proof of attachment, but conjuring them by their love for him
and their duty to return peaceably to their barracks. Feeling himself to be the
aggressor, he resolved to make honorable reparation. Early next morning he
wrote a polite note to Mr. Payne, requesting to see him at the tavern. Payne re
paired to the place appointed, in expectation of a duel, but what was his surprise
to see wine and glasses in lieu of pistols. Washington rose to meet him, and
smiling as he offered his hand, began, ' Mr. Payne, to err is nature ; to rectify
error is glory. 1 believe I was wrong yesterday; you have already had some sat
isfaction, and if you deem that sufficient, here is my hand; let us be friends.' An
act of such sublime virtue produced its proper effect, and Mr. Payne was from that
moment an enthusiastic admirer of Washington."
CharlottcsviUc, is 97 miles north-westerly from Richmond by railroad. It
is the county seat of Albemarle county, and is beautifully situated in a fer
tile valley, and contains about 3,000 inhabitants. Much of the society of the
town and county is highly refined, and the county has given birth to several
distinguished men.
Outline View of the University of Virginia.
The University of Virginia, one of the largest and most distinguished in
stitutions of learning in the United States, is about a mile and a half west
of Charlottesville, in a spot of great natural beauty, commanding a fine view
of the distant Blue Ridge. The University of Virginia was founded in
1819, by Thomas Jefferson, and so great was his interest in its success, and
his estimate of its importance, that in his epitaph, found among his papers,
he ranks his share in its foundation third among the achievements and honors
of his life — the authorship of the Declaration of Independence being the
first, and of the Virginia Statute for Religious Freedom the second. The
University is endowed and controlled by the state. It has over 400 stu
dents, and 30,000 volumes in its libraries.
The other colleges in the state are William and Mary, at Williamsburg,
founded in 1692; Hampden-Sidney, Prince Edward county, founded in 1789;
VIRGINIA.
643
;
M.ONTICELLO, SEAT OF JEFKERSON.
Washington, at Lexington, founded in 1781 ; Randolph-Macon, at Boydon,
founded in 1832 ; Emory and Henry, in Washington, founded in 1838 ; Rec
tor, in Taylor county, founded in 1839; Bethany, founded in 1841; Rich
mond, founded in 1840; Virginia Military Institute, at Lexington, founded
in 1839.
Monticello, the seat of Thomas Jefferson, is three miles S. E. of Charlottes-
ville. "In its dimensions, its architecture, its arrangements and ornaments,
it is such a one as
became the charac
ter and fortune of the
man." The mansion
is upon an eminence,
with many aspen-
trees around it, and
commands a view of
the Blue Ridge for
one hundred and
fifty miles on one
side, and on the
other of one of the
most beautiful and
extensive landscapes
in the world. The
furniture of its dis
tinguished owner is
nearly all gone, excepting a few pictures and mirrors; otherwise, the interior
of the house is the same as when Mr. Jefferson died.
Mr. Jefferson was born
at Shadwell, in Albe-
marle county, April 2,
1743. He was educated
at William and Mary
College, became a stu
dent at law, and when of
age was admitted to the bar, soon after which he was elected a represen
tative to the legislature. From his youth his mind was imbued with the
most liberal political sentiments. On one of his seals about this time was
engraved the motto " Resistance to Tyrants is obedience to God." In 1772 he
married Miss Wayles, who died in about two years, leaving two infant
daughters. In 1775 he took his seat as a delegate to Congress. In the suc
ceeding summer Jefferson was chairman of the committee, and drew up the
Declaration of Independence, which, after a few alterations, was adopted by
Congress July 4, 1776.
In June 1779, he was elected governor of Virginia, and when the state was
invaded by Tarleton and Arnold he was himself made an object of particular
pursuit. In the summer of 1784 he was sent a minister plenipotentiary to
France; when he returned he occupied the^ffice of secretary of state under
Washington. The Federal Constitution had been formed during his absence,
and it contained some points which he thought did not give adequate security
for political rights. In its practical interpretation he adopted the more pop
ular view, and he became the head of the political party by which this was sus-
41
644 VIRGINIA.
tained. ^ While in the department of state he laid down the great and ever
since approved maxims relative to our foreign commerce.
In Dec., 1793, Jefferson resigned his office and retired to Monticello. The Duke de
Liancourt, a French traveler, has given in his work a pleasing narrative of the manner in
which the life of the retired statesman was passed. " His conversation," he says, " is of
the most agreeable kind, and he possesses a stock of information not inferior to any other
man. In Europe he would hold a distinguished rank among men of letters, and as such he
has already appeared there. At present he is employed with activity and perseverance in
the managemant of his farms and buildings ; and he orders, directs and pursues, in the mi
nutest detail, every branch of business relating to them. I found him in the midst of har
vest, from which the scorching heat of the sun does not prevent his attendance. His ne
groes are nourished, clothed, and treated as well as white servants could be. Every article
is made on his farm, his negroes being cabinet-makers, carpenters and masons. The chil
dren he employs in a nail factory, and the young and old negresses spin for the clothing of
the rest. He animates them all by rewards and distinctions. In fine, his superior mind
directs the management of his domestic concerns with the same abilities, activity and reg
ularity which he evinced in the conduct of public affairs, and which he is calculated to dis
play in every situation of life."
Jefferson was not, however, permitted to enjoy the tranquillity of private life. On the 4th
of March, 1801, he entered on his first presidential term. His administration of eight
years embraced an interesting period of our history, and measures of lasting importance
carried through. On the 3d of March, 1809, when Mr. Jefferson's second term of office ex
pired, his political career closed. He had been engaged, almost without interruption, for
forty years in the most arduous public duties. From this time until his death he resided at
Monticello. His home was the abode of hospitality and the seat of dignified retirement.
Mr. Jefferson died July 4th, 1826, at the age of 83 years-X His family and servants were
called around his^£ingi.bed. After having declared himself gratified by their affectionate
solicitude, and having distinctly articulated these words, "I resign myself to God, and my
child to my country," he expired without a groan.
The neighborhood of Monticello affords innumerable monuments of the benevolence and
liberality of Mr. Jefferson ; and on his own estate, such was the condition of his slaves that
in their comfort his own interest was too often entirely forgotten. His attachment to his
friends was unvarying, and few public men have had warmer. His domestic habits were
simple, his application was excessive, and he conducted all his business with great exactness
and method. His correspondence was wonderfully extensive.
In person, Mr. Jefferson was six feet two inches in hight, erect and well formed, though
thin ; his eyes were light, and full of intelligence ; his hair, originally of a yellowish red,
was in his later years silvered with age ; his complexion was fair, his forehead broad, and
the whole face square and expressive of deep thinking ; his countenance was remarkably
intelligent, and open as day, its general expression full of good will and kindness, and
when the occasion excited it, beaming with enthusiasm ; his address was cordial, confirm
ing the good will of his lips ; his motions were flexible and easy, his step firm and sprightly ;
and such were his strength and agility that he was accustomed in the society of children, of
which he was fond, to practice feats that few could imitate. His manner was simple,
mingled with native dignity, but cheerful, unassuming, frank and kind ; his language waa
remarkable for vivacity and correctness ; and in his conversation, which was without appa
rent effort, he poured forth knowledge, the most various, from an exhaustless fountain, yet
so modestly and engagingly that he seemed rather to seek than to impart information.
He lies buried in a small burying-ground near the road, which winds around it to Monticello.
It has a slight inclosure, and is surrounded by the native wood. In it lie the remains of
members of the family, some two or three of whom have tablets of marble. On his own
grave his executor has' erected a granite obelisk, eight feet high, and on a piece of marble,
inserted on its southern face, are inscribed the three acts for which he thought he best de
served to be remembered by posterity. This inscription was found among his papers after
his death, in his own handwriting, and it is in these words :
"Here lies buried THOMAS JEFFERSON, author of the Declaration of Independence, of the
Statute of Virginia for Religious Freedom, and Father of the University of Virginia."
"Mr. Jefferson's religious creed, says Tucker, "as described in his correspondence, can
not perhaps be classed with that of any particular sect, but was nearer the Socinian than
any other. In the last years of his life, when questioned by any friends on this subject, he
used to say he was a Unitarian."
The British and German prisoners taken at Saratoga in the revolution,
and known as the "Convention droops," were sent to Charlottesville in the be-
VIRGINIA. 645
ginning of the year 1779. At first they suffered many privations; they were
billeted in block houses without doors or windows, and but poorly defended
from the cold. But they went diligently to work to construct better dwellings,
and in a short time the place had the appearance of a neat little town. Mr.
Jefferson, who then resided in the vicinity, did his utmost to render the situ
ation of the troops and officers as pleasant as possible. They remained here
until Oct., 1780. when the state was invaded by Leslie; they then were re
moved to Ft. Frederick, in Maryland.
Lynchburg^ a flourishing town, is situated on a steep declivity on the soutli
bank of James River, 124 miles by railroad westerly of Richmond, and 20
S. E. from Blue Ridge. The James River and Kanawha Canal, an import
ant public work, passes through this place, rendering it a market for
an extensive and fertile tract of country. The Virginia and Tennessee rail
road passes through this town. Large quantities of tobacco and wheat are
annually exported. There is abundant water power here, which is employed
in the manufacture of cotton, wool, flour, etc. Population about 10,0'00.
Lynchburg was established in October, 1786, when it was enacted "that 45
acres of land, the property of John Lynch, and lying contiguous to Lynch's
Ferry, are hereby vested in John Clarke, Adam Clement, Charles Lynch,
John Callaway, Achilles Douglass, William Martin, Jesse Burton, Joseph
Stratton, Micajah Moorman, and Charles Brooks, gentlemen, trustees, to be
by them, or any six of them, laid off into lots of half an acre each, with con
venient streets, and established a town by the name of Lynchburg." The
father of the above-mentioned John Lynch was an Irish emigrant, and took
up land here previous to the revolution. His place, then called Chestnut
Hill, afterward the seat of Judge Edmund Winston, was two miles below
here. At his death the present site of Lynchburg fell to his son John, by
whose exertions the town was established. The original founder of Lynch
burg was a member of the denomination of Friends, and a plain man, of strict
integrity and great benevolence of character.
Col. Charles Lynch, a brother of the founder of Lynchburg, was an officer
in the American revolution, and lived in this vicinity. At that time the
country was thinly settled, and infested by a lawless band of tories and des
peradoes. The necessity of the case involved desperate measures, and Col.
Lynch, then a leading whig, had them apprehended, tried by an assembly of
his neighbors, and then punished without any further ceremony. Hence the
origin of the term "Lynch law" This practice of "lynching" continued
years after the war, and was applied to many cases of mere supposition of
guilt which could not be regularly proved.
New London, 11 miles S. W. of Lynchburg, during the revolution was a
place of some importance, containing some seventy or eighty houses, with an
arsenal and a magazine. Early in the war there we're several Scotch mer
chants largely engaged in business here, who, refusing to take the oath of al
legiance, were compelled to break up and leave the country. Since this period
the village has gone to decay. New London was at first the county seat of
Lunenburg, and in 1753, on the foundation of Bedford county, it became its
county seat. Still later, under the old district system, the superior court was held
here.
The annexed engraving is a representation of the ancient court house,
now in a ruinous state. Humble as this building is, within its walls admiring
audiences have been moved by the magic eloquence of Patrick Henry. Here
646
VIRGINIA.
OLD COUKT HOUSE, NEW LONDON.
The building in which Patrick Henry delivered his noted
speech in the "Johnny Hook case."
it was that he delivered his celebrated speech in the "Johnny Hook
the account of which is thus given by his biographer :
Hook was a Scotchman, a man of
wealth, and suspected of being un
friendly to the American cause. Dur
ing the distresses of the American
army, consequent on the joint inva
sion of Cornwallis and Phillips in
1781, a Mr. Venable, an army com
missary, had taken two of Hook's
steers for the use of the troops. The
act had not been strictly legal, and
on the establishment of peace Hook,
on the advice of Mr. Cowan, a gen
tleman of some distinction in the
law, thought proper to bring an ac
tion of trespass against Mr. Vena
ble in the district court of New Lon
don. Mr. Henry appeared for the
defendant, and is said to have de
ported himself in this cause to the
infinite enjoyment of his hearers, the unfortunate Hook always excepted. After
Mr. Henry became animated in the cause, says a correspondent, he appeared to
have complete control over the passions of his audience; at one time he excited
their indignation against Hook; vengeance was visible in every countenance;
again, when he chose to relax and ridicule him, the whole audience was in a roar
of laughter. He painted the distresses of the American army, exposed almost
naked to the rigor of a winter's sky, and marking the frozen ground over which
they marched with the blood of their unshod feet; where was the man, he said,
who had an American heart in his bosom who would not have thrown open his
fields, his barns, his cellars, the doors of his house, the portals of his breast, to have
received with open arms the meanest soldier in that little band of famished pa
triots? Where is the man? There he stands — but whether the heart of an Amer
ican beats in his bosom you, gentlemen, are to judge. He then carried the jury,
by the powers of his imagination, to the plains around York, the surrender of
which had followed shortly after the act complained of; he depicted the surrender
in the most glowing and noble colors of his eloquence — the audience saw before
their eyes the humiliation and dejection of the British as they marched out of their
trenches — they saw the triumph which lighted up every patriotic face, and heard
the shouts of victory, and the cry of Washington and liberty, as it rung and echoed
through the American ranks, and was reverberated from the hills and shores of
the neighboring river — "but hark! what notes of discord are these which disturb
the general joy, and silence the acclamations of victory — they are the notes of John
Hook, hoarsely bawling through the American camp, beef! beef! beef I1'
The whole audience were convulsed. A particular incident will give a better
idea of the effect than any general description. The clerk of the court, unable to
contain himself, and unwilling to commit any breach of decorum in his place,
rushed out of the court-house, and threw himself on the grass, in the most violent
paroxysm of laughter, where he was rolling when Hook, with very different feel
ings, came out for relief into the yard also. "Jemmy Steptoe," he said to the
clerk, "what the devil ails you mon?" Mr. Steptoe was only able to say that he
could not help it. "Never mind ye," said Hook, "wait till Billy Cowan gets up —
he'll show him the la'." Mr. Cowan, however, was so completely overwhelmed bj
the torrent which bore upon his client that when he rose to reply to Mr. Henry
he was scarcely able to make an intelligible or audible remark. The cause was
decided almost by acclamation. The jury retired for form sake, and instantly re
turned with a verdict for the defendant. Nor did the effect of Mr. Henry's speech
stop here. The people were so highly excited by the tory audacity of such a suit
that Hook began to hear around him a cry more terrible than that of beef- — it was
VIRGINIA.
647
the cry of tar and feathers, from the application of which, it is said, that nothing
saved him but a precipitate flight and the speed of his horse.
Harper s Ferry is distant 173 miles from Richmond, 81 from Baltimore, 57
from Washington. This thriving manufacturing village is situated at the
junction of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, and on the line of the Bal
timore and Ohio Kailroad. Its name is derived from a ferry long since estab
lished across the Potomac, where the river breaks through the Blue Ridge —
at this point about 1,200 feet in hight. The name of the place was origin
ally Shenandoah Falls. The village is compactly though irregularly built
North-western View of Harper's Ferry, Virginia.
Showing the appearance of the village as it is entered upon the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad from the
west. The rocky clifl on the left, the bridge over the Potomac, and the railroad track and bridge in front,
are in Maryland. Part of the U. S. Armory buildings (the scene of the recent raid of John Brown) appear
on the right. The Odd Fellows' Hall, the Methodist Church, and the spire of the Catholic Church, are seen
on the rocky elevation above. The Cumberland and Alexandria Canal passes at the foot of the cliff on the
extreme left. Shenandoah River unites with the Potomac at the bridge.
around the base of a hill, and is the center of considerable trade. It con
tains several manufactories and flouring mills, and the U. S. Armory, in
which several hundred hands are employed. In the National Arsenal here
are stored from 100,000 to 200,000 stand of arms. Population about 5,000.
The mountain scenery at Harper's Ferry has long been celebrated as per
haps the most singularly picturesque in America, and "worth," said Jeffer
son, "a voyage across the Atlantic to witness." To obtain a full idea of its
magnificence it is necessary to climb the Blue Ridge, where the view from
its lofty summit amply repays the fatigue incurred by its ascent. The junc
tion of the two rivers — Shenandoah and Potomac — is immediately below
the spectator's feet, and his delig'hted eye, resting upon the beautiful and
thriving town of Harper's Ferry, wanders over the wide and woody plains
extending to the Alleghany mountains.
Harper's Ferry has become noted as the scene of what has been termed
" the raid of John Brown" Oct. 16, 1859. The details of this event so un
precedented in our annals we give in an abridged form, mainly from the ac
count published in Harper's Weekly, for which it was prepared by I).
648
VIRGINIA.
H. Strother, Esq., the well known author and artist of Virginia. The open
ing paragraph, however, is from Harper's Monthly :
" The usual quiet of our domestic affairs has been interrupted by a singular attempt to
excite a servile insurrection in Virginia. Among those who bore a prominent part in the
disturbances in Kansas, on the anti-slavery side, were John Brown and his seven sons.
Two of the sons lost their lives, and the remainder of the family appear to have imbibed a
monomaniacal hatred against slavery and slaveholders. The father was the leader of his
party in several of the later contests in Kansas, and from his part in one which took place
at Ossawatomie he received the sobriquet of "Ossawatomie Brown." Alter the pacifica
tion of Kansas he visited various parts of the country for the purpose of organizing a scheme
to aid in the escape of fugitive slaves. He appears to have come in contact with many
prominent abolitionists, who regarded him as a harmless monomaniac, and gave little
attention to his projects. In May, 1858, a meeting of himself and his confederates was
held at Chatham, a settlement in Canada mainly of runaway slaves, where a plan for a
Provisional Government of the United States was formed. All residents of the country,
whether slave or free, might become members of the association by promising allegiance
to the "Provisional Constitution." Brown was named Commander-in-Chief, with almost
dictatorial powers. Shortly afterward Brown, with two of his sons, appeared in the vicinity
of Harper's Ferry, in Virginia, and, under the assumed name of Smith, rented a small farm
in Maryland, a few miles from the Ferry. Here were gradually collected a considerable
quantity of arms and ammunition — rifles* pistols, pikes, cartridges and the like— and a body
of 22 men, of whom 17 where whites and 5 colored, joined him from various parts of the
country. With these, on the night of
Sunday, October 16, he made a descent
upon the town of Harper's Ferry, where
is situated a United States arsenal, in
which more than 100,000 stand of arms
are usually stored. The arsenal was
left wholly unguarded. The insurgents
took possession of the buildings without
opposition."
"The first overt act of hostility com
mitted by them was the seizure of the
watchman on the Potomac Bridge, who
was carried prisoner to the armory
buildings, of which they had already
quietly taken possession. At an hour
after midnight Col. Lewis Washington,
living four miles from the town, was
aroused from his sleep by a loud knock
ing at his door, and a voice calling him
by name. Supposing it to be some
friend come to claim hospitality, he lighted a lamp and went to the door, where, to his
amazement, he found himself in the presence of six men armed with Sharp's rifles, knives
and revolvers. The leader, J. E. Cooke, told him he was a prisoner, but that he need feel
no alarm, as no harm was intended to his person. The colonel took the matter as coolly
as could have been desired, assuring him that he not only was not frightened, but appreci
ated the honor they had done him in supposing it required six men, armed to the teeth, to
capture a single man in his night-shirt. While he dressed himself the outlaws arrested all
the negro men on the premises, attached horses to the colonel's carriage and two wagons,
and thus drove off toward Harper's Ferry. On their way they captured a Mr. John Al-
studt, his son and men-servants, in like manner. Cooke, who had previously visited Col.
Washington's house, and had been courteously entertained by him, took advantage of the
knowledge thereby gained of the premises to steal a number of treasured family relics,
among which was the sword presented by Frederick the Great to General George Wash
ington. Some of these articles have been since recovered.
"It was not until four o'clock on Monday morning that the citizens of Harper's Ferry
began to suspect that some mischief was afoot. The regular watchman at the bridge was
missing, and an armed stranger stood guard in his place. As this fact was reported to
Heywood, the well-known negro porter at the depot, he went down to see about it. When
he got there he was approached by several armed men, one of whom handed him a rifle,
and ordered him to stand guard in the cause of freedom. Heywood expostulated with
them, and resolutely refused to take the rifle. Their motives were hastily explained, and
he was threatened with instant death if he did not join them. With heroic firmness the
negro answered that they might kill him, but he would never join in their murderous
SCHOOL HOUSE IN THE MOUNTAINS.
Used by John Brown as an Arsenal.
VIRGINIA. 649
schemes. Seeing an opportunity he attempted to escape, and was shot dead. Thus the
first life sacrificed by these philanthropic liberators was that of a faithful negro. Shortly
after the workmen began to go to their shops. Among the first, a Mr. Kelly, on seeing an
armed guard at the gate, asked by what authority they had taken possession of the public
premises. The guard replied, "By the authority of God Almighty." He was ordered to
enter as prisoner, but, instead of obeying, turned and made his escape, receiving a bullet
through his hat as he ran. Mr. Boerly, a grocer, witnessing this scene as he was about opening
his shop, and running out with his gun fired at the guard. The next moment he was shot
dead.
In the mean time the rumor of these murders began to spread, and as the town was
aroused from sleep it was ascertained that the telegraph wires had been cut above and below
the town, the morning train stopped and detained for a time, and then permitted to pro
ceed, and also that several leading citizens had been taken from their beds, and were held
prisoners by a band of unknown persons in the armory grounds. The number of these
prisoners was increased to twenty-five or thirty by the capture of officers or employees who
went to the works to attend to their duties or from curiosity.
A s the sun rose upon the scene, the reported outrages and the bodies of the murdered
men showed that from whatever source the movement came it was of a serious character.
Sentinels, armed with rifles and pistols, were seen guarding all the public buildings, threat
ening death or firing at all who questioned or interfered with them; and the savage auda
city with which they issued their orders gave assurance that the buildings were occupied
by large bodies of men. Messengers were dispatched to all the neighboring towns for mil
itary assistance, while panic-stricken citizens seized such arms as they could find, and gath
ered in small bodies on the outskirts of the town, and at points remote from the works.
All was confusion and mystery. Even the sight of several armed negroes among the
strangers did not at once excite suspicion that it was an anti-slavery movement, and the
report of one of the captured slaves confirmatory of that fact was received with doubt and
incredulity. Indeed so averse was the public mind to the acceptance of this belief that
the suggestion was every where received with derision, arid every and any other explana
tion adopted in preference. Some supposed it was a strike among the discontented armor
ers, or the laborers on a government dam, who had taken this means to obtain redress for
real or imaginary grievances. Others argued that it was a band of robbers organized in
some of the cities tor the purpose of robbing the paymaster's strong box, known to contain
Borne thousands of public money; that the armed negroes were whites in disguise; that the
idea of inciting a servile insurrection was a ruse, put forth to distract the public mind and
enable them to escape with their booty.
Still aroused, as much by curiosity and love of excitement as by the idea of real danger,
the people of the neighboring towns and farm houses armed themselves with such weapons
as they could find, and trooped toward the scene of action by tens and by hundreds. In
the mean time a guerilla fight had been commenced by the citizens of Harper's Ferry. A
man named George Chambers, whose house commanded the public grounds, shot the negro
sentinel that guarded the arsenal, and a dropping fire was heard in different quarters.
Hall's rifle-works on the Shenaudoah were assailed by the Jefferson Volunteers, supposing
it to be strongly occupied. It was taken without great difficulty, and to the astonishment
of all, its garrison was ascertained to have consisted of but five men. These attempted to
escape by wading and swimming the Shenandoah, but four of them were shot while in the
water, and one was taken unhurt. A wretch, mortally wounded, was dragged from the
river by a citizen, and laid upon the bank shivering with cold and loss of blood. He begged
to be taken to a fire, promising to confess everything. The bystanders carried him to. an
old cooper's shop hard by, where a hasty blaze was kindled. He told that his name was
Lewis Leary; that he had been enlisted in Oberlin, Ohio, to serve in the great war of lib
eration to commence at Harper's Ferry. He left a wife and three children, and entreated
some one to write to them to inform them of the manner of his death. He was a good
looking mulatto, quite young, and nearly white. After lingering in great agony for twelve
hours he died.
About this time Capt. George Turner, who had come down with the Jefferson military,
went to reconnoiter the position of the outlaws' in the armory enclosure, and while so doing
was shot dead. Capt. Turner was a graduate of West Point, and for some years an officer
in the United States army. He was a gentleman of fortune, and one of the most esteemed
citizens of the county.
Brown gathering together the remnant of his desperate band, with a few frightened ne
groes and the elite of his prisoners, retired into the fire-engine house, within the public
grounds. A short time after two of his party came out, each leading a citizen prisoner —
whether to parley or to escape was not understood. When they appeared in the street one
of the outlaws was immediately shot down, and the other captured, the citizen prisoners
thus rejoining their friends. The outlaw who was thus shot was Aaron C. Stephens, who
650 VIRGINIA.
still lives a prisoner, although at the time supposed to be mortally wounded. After this
incident, Mr. Fontaine Beckham, Mayor of Harper's Ferry, and one of its most beloved
citizens, exposed himself on the railroad track within range of the fire from the engine-
house, and was shot dead. As the spot where he fell was commanded completely by the
fire of the outlaws, his body lay there for several hours before it was removed. The spot
is still marked by stains of blood mingled with gray hairs. At this sight the outlaw pris
oner Thompson, who had just been ta
ken, was told to prepare for death. He
begged hard, but was immediately shot
and thrown into the river. Although
two balls had been fired into his body,
and he fell forty feet into the water, he
had vitality enough left to swim to the
base of the next pier and crawl up upon
its edge, where twenty rifle bullets soon
ended his miserable existence. At
three o'clock a party of a hundred men
from Martinsburg arrived in the pas
senger train which had been turned back
in the morning. This party was only
partially armed, and without organiza
tion, many having come as much from
curiosity as other motives. When they
ENGINE HOUSE HARPER'S FERRY. ai™;ed at the «PPer end of the armoI7
buildings on the Potomac, some twenty
Stormed by the U. S. Marines.. or more of jaring spirits, headed by
GeorgeWollet, one of the railroad men,
made a rash but gallant assault upon the stronghold of the outlaws. Wollet broke open
the door, and nearly succeeded in forcing himself in, but was shot through the left arm by
a rifle ball. The attack was repulsed, with a loss of seven wounded, three of them danger
ously. The fruit of this assault was the liberation of eighteen of the Harper's Ferry pris
oners and the death of two of the outlaws. The wounded of the Martinsburg men deserve
honorable mention: George Wollett, severely wounded; Evan Dorsey, dangerously wounded;
Kirk Hammond, dangerously wounded; Richardson, severely wounded; George H.
Murphy, slightly wounded; N. Hooper, severely wounded; another, not reported.
One of the outlaws escaped from the armory inclosure by creeping through a culvert
which led to the Potomac River. He threw away his rifle and attempted to swim, but was
hindered by the weight of his accouterments. Under the fire of twenty rifles, he crept be
hind a rock, and drawing a knife attempted to cut away his belts. G'eorge Schoppart, of
Martinsburg, waded out until within ten paces of him .and shot him dead. In his pocket
was found a captain's commission, which reads as follows:
HEAD-QUARTERS, WAR DEPARTMENT, )
Near Harper's Ferry, Maryland. J
Whereas W. H. Leeman has been nominated a captain in the array established under the
Provisional Constitution ; now therefore, in pursuance of the authority vested in me by
said Constitution, we do hereby appoint and commission the said W. H. Leeman captain.
Given at the office of the Secretary of War this day, 15th of October, 1859.
JOHN BROWN, Commander-in-Chief.
H. KEYS, Secretary of War.
At eleven o'clock on Monday night the United States Marines, under Col. Robert Lee,
arrived, and were posted so as to command the engine-house, which was closely invested
during the night. Early in the morning Brown sent out a flag of truce, proposing terms of
capitulation. He demanded that his men should be allowed to march out, with their pris
oners, unmolested, to a certain point, when the prisoners were to be liberated, and his men
should then shift for themselves as they best could. The terms were refused, and prepara
tions were made to storm the engine-house. Cannon could not be used without endanger
ing the safety of the prisoners, and an unsuccessful attempt was made to break down the
doors with sledge-hammers. A heavy ladder was then brought up and used as a battering-
ram; the door gave way, and the marines rushed in in the face of a heavy fire. Private
Quinn, one of the first who entered, received a mortal wound. Turning back, he dropped
his musket and staggered to the rear, where he fell, preserving to the last his quiet, soldierly
bearing. Private Rupert received an ugly wound in the cheek. Col. Washington, who
through all these trying scenes had borne himself with an intrepid coolness that excited the
admiration of the brigand chief himself* now did important service. The moment the ma
rines entered he sprung upon one of the engines, told his fellow prisoners to hold up their
VIRGINIA. 651
hands, that they might be recognized as non-combatants, and then rapidly pointed out the
outlaws to the vengeance of the soldiers. Having discharged their pieces in the faces of
the soldiers, several of these threw down their arms and begged for quarter. Untamable
to the last, old Brown sat in a corner loading his rifle, a breech-loader, and in this position
received a sabre-stroke from Lieutenant Green which threw him forward on his hands and
knees. Two or three bayonet stabs finished him, it was then supposed. Ottawa Brown,
his son, was shot down and bayoneted.
The citizen captives, released from their long and trying confinement, hurried out to
meet their friends with every demonstration of joy, while the bloody carcasses of the dead
and dying outlaws were dragged into the lawn amidst the howls and execrations of the
people. It was a hideous and ghastly spectacle. Some stark and stiff', With staring eyes
and fallen jaws, were the dead of yesterday; while others, struck with death wounds,
writhed and wallowed in their blood. Two only were brought out unhurt — Coppick and
Green the negro — and they only escaped immediate death by accident, the soldiers not at
once distinguishing them from the captive citizens and slaves.
The mid-day train brought Governor Wise, accompanied by several hundred men from
Richmond, Alexandria, Baltimore, and elsewhere. There was real disappointment to find
that the fight was over, and when the governor was informed of the mere handful of men
who had created all this bobbery he boiled over. In his wrath he said some good things.
Indeed it was universally seen and felt that Governor Wise was just the mau for such an
occasion.
Four men had been sent away the previous day with the slaves who had been seized by
the insurgents. Two of these, Cooke and Hazlett, were subsequently taken in Pennsylva
nia, and surrendered to the authorities of Virginia. The citizens whom they had taken
prisoners were released unharmed; they had suffered no ill-treatment beyond their forced
detention. The following list contains the names and fate of the persons engaged in this
mad undertaking:
1. John Brown, of Essex county, New York, wounded and prisoner; 2. Ottawa Brown,
his son, of New York, killed; '.L Watson Brown, his son, of New York, killed; 4. Aaron
C. Stevens, of Connecticut, wounded; 5. Edwin Coppic, of Iowa, prisoner; 6. Albert Haz
lett, of Pennsylvania, killed; 7. William H. Leernan, of Maine, killed; 8. Stewart Taylor,
of Canada, killed; 9. Charles P. Tidd, of Maine, killed; 10. William Thompson, of New
York, killed: 11. Dolph Thompson, of New York, killed; 12. John H. Kage, of Ohio,
killed; 13. Jerry Anderson, of Indiana, killed; 14. Dangerfield Newby, negro, of Ohio,
killed; 15. O. P. Anderson, negro, of Pennsylvania, killed; 16. Lewis Leary, negro, of
Ohio, killed; 17. Shields Green, alias Emperor, negro, of Pennsylvania, prisoner; 18.
Cope!and, negro, of Ohio, prisoner; 19. J. E. Cooke, white man, of Connecticut, prisoner;
20. William Hazlett, alias Harrison, prisoner; 21,22. Two men, names unknown, escaped.
Of the citizens and soldiers, seven were killed and a number wounded."
"The Grand Jury of Jefferson county being in session, bills of indictment were found
against the prisoners, charging them with inciting slaves to insurrection, with treason and
murder. They demanded to be tried separately, and the Commonwealth elected to try
Brown first. He asked for a delay, on account of his severe wounds; this was refused by
the Court, and the trial commenced on the 26th of October. The prisoner, w ho was unable
to sit, lay upon a mattress. The trial lasted three days, and Brown was found guilty upon
all the counts in the indictments. The clerk then asked whether he had anything to say
why sentence should not be pronounced upon him.
BROWN'S SPEECH.
Mr. Brown immediately rose, and in a clear, distinct voice, said: 'I have, may it please
the court, a few words to say. In the first place, I deny every thing but. what I have all
along admitted, of a design on my part to free slaves. I intended, certainly, to have made
a clean thing of that matter, as I did last winter, when I went into Missouri, and there took
slaves without the snapping of a gun on either side, moving them through the country, and
finally leaving them in Canada. I designed to have, done the same thing again on a. larger
scale. That was all I intended. I never did intend murder or treason, or the destruction
of property, or to excite or incite slaves to rebellion, or to make insurrection. I have an
other objection, and that is that it is unjust that I should suffer such a penalty. Had I in
terfered in the manner in which I admit, and which I admit had been fairly proved — for I
admire the truthfulness and candor of the greater portion of the witnesses who have testified
in this case — had I so interfered in behalf of the rich, the powerful, the intelligent, the so-
called great, or in behalf of any of their friends, either, father, mother, brother, sister, wifo
or children, or any of that class, and suffered and sacrificed what I have in this interference,
it would have been all right; every man in this court would have deemed it an act worthy
of reward rather than punishment.
'This court acknowledges, too, as I suppose, the validity of the law of God. I see a book
652 VIRGINIA.
kissed, which I suppose to be the Bible, or at least the New Testament, which teaches me
that all things whatsoever I would that men should do to me I should do even so to them.
It teaches me, further, to remember them that are in bonds as bound with them. I endeav
ored to act up to that instruction. I say I am yet too young to understand that God is any
respecter of persons. I believe that to have interfered as I have done, as I have always
freely admitted I have done, in behalf of His despised poor, is no wrong, but right. Now,
if it is deemed necessary that I should forfeit my life for the furtherance of the ends of jus
tice, and mingle my blood further with the blood of my children, and with the blood of mil
lions in this slave country, whose rights are disregarded by wicked, cruel and unjust enact
ments, I say let it be done. Let me say one word further. I feel entirely satisfied with
the treatment I have received on my trial. Considering all the circumstances, it has been
more generous than I expected; but I feel no consciousness of guilt. I have stated from
the first what was my intention and what was not. I never had any design against the lib
erty of any person, nor any disposition to commit treason or incite slaves to rebel or make any
general insurrection. I never encouraged any man to do so, but always discouraged any
idea of that kind. Let me say, also, in regard to the statements made by some of those who
were connected with me : I fear it has been stated by some of them that I have induced them
to join me, but the contrary is true. I do not say this to injure them, but as regretting
their weakness. Not one joined me but of his own accord, and the greatest part at their own
expense. A number of them I never saw and never had a word of conversation with till the
day they came to me, and that was for the purpose I have stated. Now I have done.'
While Brown was speaking perfect quiet prevailed, and when he had iinished the judge
proceeded to pronounce sentence upon him. After a few preliminary remarks, he said that
no reasonable doubt could exist of the guilt of the prisoner, and sentenced him to be hung
in public on Friday the 2d of December following, which sentence he received with com
posure."
Subsequently the six remaining prisoners were tried and sentenced to death, and all seven
paid the penalty of the law on the gallows. They were, beside Brown, Stephens, Coppic,
Cooke, Harrison, whites, and Green and Copeland, blacks. Two of the whole twenty-two
only ultimately escaped death.
The intense sectional agitation in Congress growing out of the tragedy at
Harper's Ferry will long be remembered. It was at this time when for weeks
it seemed as if the destinies of the country held on a single thread, in the ap
parent impossibility of carrying on the government, through the failure of
Congress to organize, that the Hon. A. R. Boteler, member from this dis
trict, in a speech delivered in the House, touchingly related one of the most
beautiful incidents in our revolutionary history :
"The district which I represent, and the county where I live — that county made
famous by the raid of John Brown — was the first, the very first in all the South,
to send succor to Massachusetts in the time of her direst necessity ! In one of the
most beautiful spots in that beautiful county, within rifle shot of my residence, at
the base of a hill, where a glorious spring leaps out into sunlight from beneath the
gnarled roots of a thunder-riven oak, there assembled on the 10th of July, 1775^ the
very first band of southern men who marched to the aid of Massachusetts. They
met there, then, and their rallying cry was "a bee-line for Boston." That beauti
ful and peaceful valley — the "valley of the Shenandoah" — had never been polluted
by the footsteps of a foe; for even the Indians themselves had, according to tradi
tion, kept it free from the incursion of their enemies. It was the hunting range
and neutral ground of the aborigines. The homes of those who lived there then
were far beyond the reach of danger. But Boston was beleaguered ! The hearths
of your fathers were threatened with pollution, and the fathers of those whom I
represent rallied to their protection —
" They left the plowshare in the mold,
Their flocks and herds without a fold,
The sickle in the unshorn grain,
Their corn half-garnered on the plain,
And mustered in their simple dress,
For wrongs of yours to seek redress."
Thus they mustered around the spring I speak of, and from thence they made
their "bee-line for Boston." Before they inarched they made a pledge that all who
survived would assemble there fifty years after that day. It is my pride and pleas-
VIRGINIA. 653
ure to remember that I, though but a child then, was present at the spring when
the fifty years rolled round. Three aged, feeble, tottering men — the survivors of
that glorious band of one hundred and twenty — were all who were left to keep
their tryst, and be faithful to the pledge made fifty years before to their compan
ions, the bones of most of whom had been left bleaching on your northern hills.
Sir, I have often heard from the last survivor of that band of patriots the inci
dents of their first meeting and their inarch; how they made some six hundred
miles in thirty days — twenty miles a day — and how, as they neared their point of
destination, Washington, who happened to be making a reconnoissance in the
neighborhood, saw them approaching, and recognizing the linsey-wolsey hunting-
shirts of old Virginia, galloped up to meet and greet them to the camp; how, when
he saw their captain, his old companion-in-arms, Stephenson, who had stood by
his side at the Great Meadows, on Braddock's fatal field, and in many an Indian
campaign — and who reported himself to his commander as "from the right bank of
the Potomac' — he sprang from his horse and clasped his old friend and companion-
in-arms with both hands. He spoke no word of welcome, but the eloquence of si
lence told what his tongue could not articulate. He moved along the ranks, shaking
the hand of each, from man to man, and all the while, as my informer told me,
the big tears were seen rolling down his cheeks.
Aye, sir, Washington wept! And why did Ae glorious soul of Washington swell
with emotion? AVhy did he weep? Sir, they were tears of joy! and he wept be
cause he saw that the cause of Massachusetts was practically the cause of Vir
ginia; because he saw that her citizens recognized the great principles involved in
the contest. These Virginia volunteers had come spontaneously. They had come
in response to the words of her Henry, that were leaping like thunder through the
land, telling the people of Virginia 'that they must fight, and fight for Massachu
setts. They had come to rally with Washington, to defend your fathers' firesides,
to protect their homes from harm. Well, the visit has been returned ! John Brown
selected that very county, whose citizens went so promptly to the aid of the North
when the North needed aid, as the most appropriate place in the South to carry
out the doctrines of the "irrepressible conflict," and, as was mentioned in the Sen
ate yesterday, the rock where Leeman fell was the very rock over which Morgan
and his men marched a few hours after Stephenson's command had crossed the
river some ten miles further up.
May this historical reminiscence rekindle the embers of patriotism in our hearts !
Why should this nation of ours be rent in pieces by this irrepressible conflict?
Is it irrepressible? The battle will not be fought out upon this floor. For when
the dark day comes, as come it may, when this question that now divides and agi
tates the hearts of the people shall be thrust from the forum of debate, to be de
cided by the bloody arbitrament of the sword, it will be the saddest day for us and
all mankind that the sun of Heaven has ever shone upon."
Winchester is 32 miles south-west of Harper's Ferry by railroad. Its pop
ulation is about 6,000. It is beautifully situated in the rich and fertile valley
of Virginia, about twenty miles west of the Blue Ridge. Winchester was
settled at a very early day, and in Braddock's war Washington had his head
quarters here. A fort was erected in the place under the name of Fort Lou-
don, which was then the frontier post of Virginia. In 1781, 1,600 Hessian
prisoners were confined in barracks west of the town.
In the Presbyterian grave-yard at Winchester is the grave of Gen. Daniel
Morgan, the brave commander of the famous Virginia rifle corps of the rev
olution. The monument, a plain slab, states that he died July 6, 1802, in his
67th year. Howe, in his "Historical Collections of Virginia," published in
1845, says:
At the end of the war Gen. Morgan retired to his estate, named Saratoga, a few
miles from Winchester. After the expedition against the insurgents in the Whisky
654 VIRGINIA.
insurrection, he was selected from this district to Congress, where he served two
sessions. In 1800 he removed to Winchester, where, after a confinement of two
years from extreme debility, he expired. The house where he resided and died
was the frame building now (1844) occupied by the Rev. Mr. Boyd, in the north
west part of the town. His widow moved to Pittsburg. His two daughters mar
ried officers of the revolution.
A writer in a recent number of the Winchester Republican has some interesting
facts respecting Gen. Morgan, which we here annex:
This 'thunderbolt of war/ this 'brave Morgan, who never knew fear,' was, in
camp, often wicked and very profane, but never a disbeliever in religion. He tes
tified that himself. In his latter years Gen. M organ professed religion, and united
himself with the Presbyterian church of this place, under the pastoral care of the
Rev. Mr. (now Dr.) Hill, who preached in this house some forty years, and may
now be occasionally heard on Loudon-street. His last days were passed in this
town; and while sinking to the grave he related to his minister the experience of
his soul. 'People thought,' said he, 'that Daniel Morgan never prayed' — 'people
said old Morgan never was afraid' — people did not know.' lie then proceeded to
relate in his blunt manner, among many other things, that the night they stormed
Quebec, while waiting in the darkness and storm," with his men paraded, for the
word to advance, he felt unhappy; tfte enterprise appeared more than perilous; it
seemed to him that nothing less"than a miracle could bring them off safe from an
encounter at such an amazing disadvantage. He stepped aside and kneeled by the
side of a munition of war, and then most fervently prayed that the Lord Goo! Al
mighty would be his shield and defense, for nothing less than an almighty arm
could protect him. He continued on his knees till the word passed along "the line.
He fully believed that his safety during that night of peril was from the interposi
tion of God. Again, he said, about the battle of the Cowpens, which covered him
with so much glory as a leader and a soldier, he had felt afraid to fight Tarleton
with his numerous army flushed with success, and that he retreated as long as he
could — till his men complained — and he could go no further. Drawing up his
army in three lines on the hill side, contemplating the scene, in the distance the
glitter of the advancing enemy, he trembled for the fate of the day. Going to the
woods in the rear, he kneeled in an old tree-top, and poured out a prayer to God
for his army, and for himself, and for his country. With relieved spirits he re
turned to the lines, and in his rough manner cheered them for the fight; as he
passed along they answered him bravely. The terrible carnage that followed the
deadly aim of his lines decided the victory. In a few moments Tarleton fled
'Ah,' said he, 'people said old Morgan never feared' — 'they thought old Morgan
never prayed, they did not know' — 'old Morgan was often miserably afraid.' "
Staunton is 120 miles W. N. W. of Richmond by railroad, in the valley of
Virginia, The Western Lunatic Asylum and the Virginia Institution for
the Deaf, Dumb and Blind is situated here. The celebrated Weyer's cave is
about 18 miles N. E. of the town.
Lexington, 35 miles southerly from Staunton, nnd, by railway, 35 miles
north-westerly from Lynchburg, is the seat of Washington College, endowed
by Washington himself, and founded in 1798; also of the Virginia Military
Institute, a highly flourishing institution. Gen. Samuel Houston, of Texas,
was born near the town.
The Natural Bridge is 14 miles south-westerly from Lexington, 172 from
Richmond, and 213 from Washington. The mean hight of the bridge, from
the stream below to its upper surface, is 215 feet 6 inches; its average width
is 80 feet, its length 93 i'eet, and its thickness 55 feet. This curiosity is na
ture like art, with the proportions of art, on the very spot where art would
otherwise have been required for the construction of a bridge. It is unique.
No structure exists like it. An eloquent foreign visitor says :
"You will have no just conception of this masterpiece until you get below. You
go some little distance for this purpose, as in the vicinity of the bridge the rocks
VIRGINIA. 655
are far too precipitous. A hot and brilliant day is, of all others, the time to enjoy
this object. To escape from a sun which scorches you into these verdant and cool
bottoms is a luxury of itself, which disposes you to relish everything else. When
The Natural Bridge.
down, I was very careful of the first impression, and did not venture to look steadily
on the objects about me till I had selected my station. At length I placed myself
about one hundred feet from the bridge, on some masses of rock which were
washed by the running waters, and ornamented by the slender trees which were
656 VIRGINIA.
springing from its fissures. At my feet was the soothing melody of the rippling,
gushing waters. Behind me, and in the distance, the river and the hills were ex
panding themselves to the light and splendor of day. Before me, and all around,
everything was reposing in the most delightful shade, set off by the streaming ravs
of the sun, which shot across the head of the picture far above you, and sweetened
the solitude below. On the right and left the majestic rocks arose, with the de
cision of a wall, but without its uniformity, massive, broken, beautiful, and sup
plying a most admirable foreground; and everywhere the most delicate stems were
planted in their crevices, and waving their heads in the soft breeze which occa
sionally came over them. The eye now ran through the bridge, and was gratified
with a lovely vista. The blue mountains stood out in the background; beneath
them, the hills and woods gathered together, so as to enclose the dell below, while
the river, which was coursing away from them, seemed to have its well-head hidden
in their recesses. Then there is the arch, distinct from everything, and above
everything! Massive as it is, it is light and beautiful by its hight, and the fine
trees on its summit seem now only like a garland of evergreens; and, elevated as
it is, its apparent elevation is wonderfully increased by the narrowness of its piers,
and by its outline being drawn on the blue sky which appears beneath and above it!
O ! it is sublime — so strong and yet so elegant — springing from earth, and bath
ing its head in heaven ! But it is the sublime not allied to the terrific, as at Niag
ara; it is the sublime associated with the pleasing. I sat and gazed in wonder
and astonishment. That afternoon was the shortest I ever remembered. I had
quickly, too quickly, to leave the spot forever, but the music of those waters, the
luxury of those shades, the form and colors of those rocks, and that arch — that arch
— rising over all, and seeming to offer a passage to the skies — 0 ! they will never
leave me!
The Peaks of Otter are 35 miles south-westerly from Lynchburg. They
are two exquisitely beautiful conical peaks in the Blue Ridge, some two miles
apart, and rising to the hight of more than a mile above the level of the sea.
From the summits, on one hand the eye has uninterrupted range as far as
vision can extend over the comparatively level country of eastern Virginia ;
on the other are mountains piled on mountains, until blue of mountain and
blue of sky mingle in the far distance in one undistinguishable tint.
The Natural Tunnel, another of the many natural curiosities of Virginia,
is in Scott county, in the south-western part of the state, near the line of Ten
nessee. It is a winding passage through a mountain of 450 feet in length
and in places 90 feet in hight. A stream of water flows through it and a
stage road over it.
The White Sulphur Springs of Greenbrier, the most celebrated of all the
watering places of Virginia, are 9 miles easterly from Lewisburg, about 170
from the Ohio River at Point Pleasant, 242 south-west of Washington City,
and 205 west of Richmond. Its situation is in a charming valley, environed
by mountains. Fifty acres, perhaps, are occupied with lawns and walks, and
the cabins and cottages of the guests, built in rows around the public apart
ments, the dining-room, the ball-room, etc., give the place quite a merry,
happy village air. There is Alabama-row, Louisiana, Paradise, Baltimore
and Virginia rows, Georgia, Wolf and Bachelor rows, Broadway, the Colon
nade, Virginia lawn, the Spring, and other specialities. The cottages are
built of wood, brick and of logs, one story high ; and, altogether, the social
arrangement and spirit here, as at all the surrounding springs, has a pleas
ant, quiet, home sentiment, very much more desirable than the metropolitan
temper of more accessible and more thronged resorts.
The Blue Sulphur Springs are 22 miles from the White Sulphur, in a valley
surrounded by mountains on three sides, presenting wild and picturesque
scenery. The water is similar to that of the White Sulphur.
VIRGINIA. 657
The Sweet Springs are 17 miles east from the White Sulphur, in a wide and
beautiful valley among the mountains. Their temperature is 73° Fahrenheit.
They are celebrated for the tonic power of their waters, whether used exter
nally or internally. About a mile north of the Sweet Springs is the Red
Spring of the Alleghany r, said to be peculiarly efficacious in rheumatic com
plaints.
The Salt Sulphur Springs are in Monroe county, 24 miles distant from the
White Sulphur. This pleasant watering place is surrounded by mountains
on every side. The Red Sulphur Springs are situated on Indian creek, 40
miles from the White Sulphur and 16 from the Salt Sulphur.
The Augusta Springs are 12 miles north-west of Staunton. The water is
strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen, and is said to equal the
celebrated springs of Harrowgate, England. The Alum Springs are in Rock-
bridge county, 17 miles west of Lexington, on the road to the warm and hot
springs of Bath county. The Botetourt Springs are in Roanoke county, 12
miles from Fincastle. The Fauquier White Sulphur Springs are 6 miles
south-west from Warrenton, in Fauquier county. The Grayson Sulphur
Springs are in Carrol county, on the west side of the Blue Ridge, about 20
miles south of Wytheville. Its waters are said to be efficacious in dyspepsia
and rheumatism. The SJiannondale Sprinys are upon the Shenandoah River,
in the vicinity of Harper's Ferry, near the Blue Ridge, and are easier of ac
cess from the northern Atlantic cities than any others in Virginia. The
scenery of the place is very beautiful. The waters closely resemble those of
the celebrated Bedford waters in composition, operation and efficacy.
Wheeling is on the east bank of Ohio River, and on both sides of Wheeling
creek, 351 miles from Richmond, 56 miles from Pittsburg, and 365 above
Cincinnati. The hills back of the city come near the river, so as to leave but
a limited area for building, so that the place is forced to extend along the
high alluvial bank for two miles. A fine stone bridge over Wheeling creek
connects the upper and lower portions of the city. Wheeling is the most
important place on the Ohio River between Cincinnati and Pittsburg. It is
surrounded by bold hills containing inexhaustible quantities of bituminous
coal, from which the numerous manufacturing establishments are supplied at
a small expense. The place contains several iron foundries, cotton mills, and
factories of various kinds. A large business is done in the building of steam
boats. Population about 12,000l
The National Road, from Cumberland across the Alleghany Mountains to
St. Louis, passes through Wheeling, and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad
terminates here, making this place a great thoroughfare of travel between the
east and west. The Ohio River is crossed here by a magnificent wire sus
pension bridge, erected at a cost of upward of $200,000. Its span, one of the
longest in the world, measures 1,010 feet. The hight of the towers is 153 feet
above low water mark, and 60 above the abutments. The entire bridge is
supported by 12 wire cables, 1,380 feet in length and 4 inches in diameter,
each composed of 550 strands. These cables are laid in pairs, 3 pairs on
each side of the flooring.
In 1769 Col. Ebenezer Zane, his brothers Silas and Jonathan, with some
others from the south branch of the Potomac, visited the Ohio for the pur
pose of making improvements, and severally proceeded to select posi
tions for their future residence. They chose for their residence the site now
occupied by the city of Wheeling, and having made the requisite preparations
returned to their former homes, and brought out their families the ensuing
658
VIRGINIA.
year. The Zanes were men of enterprise, tempered with prudence, and di
rected by sound judgment. To the bravery and good conduct of these three
brothers, the Wheeling settlement was mainly indebted for its security and
preservation during the war of the revolution. Soon after the settlement of
this place other settlements were made at different points, both above and be
low Wheeling, in the country on Buffalo. Short and Grave creeks.
The name of Wheeling was originally Weeling, which in the Delaware lan
guage signifies the place of a head. At a very early day, some whites de
scending the Ohio in a boat, stopped at the mouth of the creek and were mur
dered by Indians. The savages cut off the head of one of their victims, and
placing it on a pole with its face toward the river, called the spot Wceling.
Southern View of Wheeling.
The view shows the appearance of Wheeling as it is entered upon the Baltimore and Ohio Riiilroad. The
steamboat landing and part of the city are seen in the central part. The suspension bridge crossing over to
Wheeling Island on the left. Part of the railroad depot is on the right.
The most important event in the history of Wheeling was the siege of Fort
Henry, at the mouth of Wheeling creek, in September, 1777. The fort was
originally called Fort Fincastle, and was a place of refuge for the settlers in
Dunmore's war. The name was afterward changed to Henry, in honor of
Patrick Henry. The Indians who besieged the fort were estimated at from
380 to 500 warriors, led on by the notorious Simon Girty. The garrison
numbered only 42 fighting men, under the command of Col. Shepherd. The
savages made several attempts to force themselves into the fort; they were
driven back by the unerring rifle shots of the brave little garrison. A rein
forcement of about 50 men having got into the fort, the Indians raised the
siege, having lost from 60 to 100 men. The loss of the garrison was 26
killed, all of whom, excepting three or four, fell in an ambuscade outside the
VIRGINIA. 659
walls before the attack on the fort commenced. The heroism of Elizabeth
Zane during the siege is worthy of record. This heroine had but recently
returned from school at Philadelphia, and was totally unused to such scenes
as were daily transpiring on the frontier :
"The stock of gunpowder in the fort having been nearly exhausted, it was de
termined to seize the favorable opportunity offered by the suspension of hostilities
to send for a keg of gunpowder which was known to be in the house of Ebenezer
Zane, about sixty yards from the gate of the fort. The person executing this ser
vice would necessarily expose himself to the danger of being shot down by the In
dians, who were yet sufficiently near to observe everything that transpired about
the works. The colonel explained the matter to his men, and, unwilling to order
one of them to undertake such a desperate enterprise, inquired whether any mail
would volunteer for the service. Three or four young men promptly stepped for
ward in obedience to the call. The colonel informed them that the weak state of
the garrison would not justify the absence of more than one man, and that it was
for themselves to decide who that person should be. The eagerness felt by each
volunteer to undertake the honorable mission prevented them i'rorn making the ar
rangement proposed by the commandant; and so much time was consumed in the
contention between them that fears began to arise that the Indians would renew
the attack before the powder could be procured. At this crisis, a young lady, the
sister of Ebenezer and Silas Zane, came forward and desired that she might be
permitted to execute the service. This proposition seemed so extravagant that it
met with a peremptory refusal; but she instantly renewed her petition in terms of
redoubled earnestness, and all the remonstrances of the colonel and her relatives
failed to dissuade her from her heroic purpose. It was finally represented to her
that either of the young men. on account of his superior fleetness and familiarity
with scenes of danger, would be more likely than herself to do the work success
fully. She replied that the danger which would attend the enterprise was the
identical reason that induced her to offer her services, for, as the garrison was very
weak, no soldier's life should be placed in needless jeopardy, and that if she were
to fall her loss would not be felt. Her petition was ultimately granted, and the
gate opened for her to pass out. The opening of the gate arrested the attention of
several Indians who were straggling through the village. It was noticed that their
eyes were upon her as she crossed the open space to reach her brother's house;
but seized, perhaps, with a sudden freak of clemency, or believing that a woman's
life was not worth a load of gunpowder, or influenced by some other unexplained
motive, they permitted her to pass without molestation. When she reappeared
with the powder in her arms the Indians, suspecting, no doubt, the character of her
burden, elevated their firelocks and discharged a volley at her as she swiftly glided
toward the gate, but the balls all flew wide of the mark, and the fearless girl
reached the fort in safety with her prize. The pages of history may furnish a
parallel to the noble exploit of Elizabeth Zane, but an instance of greater self-
devotion and moral intrepidity is not to be found anywhere."
Parkcrsburg is a thriving town of about 4,500 inhabitants, at the junction
of the Little Kanawha with the Ohio, 100 miles below Wheeling. It has a
connection with the west by the Cincinnati and Marietta railroad, and with
the east by the North-western railroad, a branch of the Baltimore and Ohio
railroad.
Martinzburg is a flourishing town on the Baltimore and Ohio railroad, 180
miles north from Richmond, and has about 3,000 inhabitants.
Moundsville is a small village on the line of the Baltimore and Ohio Rail
road, 11 miles below Wheeling. On the river flats at this place, in full view
of the passing steamers, is the Mammoth Mound, 69 feet in hight. Some
years since a white oak, about 70 feet in hight, stood on its summit, which
appeared to die of age. On carefully cutting the trunk transversely, the
number of concentric circles showed that it was about 500 years old. In
42
660
VIRGINIA.
1838 Mr. Tomlinson excavated the mound at the bottom ; after proceeding
horizontally 111 feet, he found two skeletons in a grave or vault, which had
been excavated into the earth before
the mound was commenced. Another
excavation was made at the top of the
mound downward. About half way
down a second vault was found. In
^ was Discovered a singular hiero-
glyphical stone, a copy of which is
annexed of the size of the original.
Mr. Henry R. Schoolcraft, the anti
quarian, says : "These characters are
in the ancient rock alphabet of six
teen right and acute angled single
strokes, used by the Pelasgi and other
early Mediterranean nations, and which is the parent of the modern Runic
as well as the Bardic."
Charleston, the county seat for Kanawha county, is a flourishing village on
the north bank of the Kanawha River, 308 miles west of Richmond, and 46
east of the Ohio River. The first house of worship was built by the Metho
dists, the second by the Presbyterians in 1830, and the third by the Episco
palians in 1835. Population about 2,000.
The Kanawha salt works commence on the river near Charleston, and ex
tend on both sides for about fifteen miles ; and the amount of salt now man
ufactured is about 2,500,000 bushels annually, giving employment to several
thousand persons. The salt water is obtained by boring through a forma
tion of rock from 300 to 500 feet deep, and the water rises in copper or tin
tubes, which exclude the fresh water, to the level of the surface of the river
along its margin. It is then raised forty feet to the top of the bank, by
forcing-pumps moved by steam-engines. The bituminous coal which abounds
in the vicinity is used for evaporating the water. A late traveler in the
Kanawha Valley gives some valuable items :
The valley of the Kanawha, above Charleston, is at present the most profitable
farming country in western Virginia. The strip of bottom land on the river is nar
row, being sometimes on one side of the river and then on the other, but always
exceedingly rich and adapted to almost every kind of product. The best farms
here are held at $100 per acre, and pay a large interest on that price.
The various manufacturing operations on this portion of the Kanawha, of salt,
coal oil, coal mines, etc., are sufficient to absorb so large an amount of farming
products as to enable those who attend to the cultivation of their farms properly to
realize very handsome returns. There are more evidences of good farming in the
distance of twenty miles above Charleston than in any spot I have seen in Vir
ginia.
As to the value or amount of coal in this region, I should say there is coal
enough in the valley of the Kanawha to supply the whole world for fifty years if
coal could be had from no other source.
I saw nothing of Charleston, as I arrived there in the night and left before light
the next morning. The people, however, on the river all speak of it as a "right
smart little place." It has about 2,000 inhabitants, and is the medium and center
of a large trade. They suffer greatly, however, from the frequent and often long
failure of the Kanawha to allow their boats to arrive. I learned since I was there they
ran entirely ashore for tea, coffee, sugar, molasses, etc., and were obliged to send
teams down the river some distance to meet the boats which were coming up with
the articles, but had stuck fast on the rocks.
VIRGINIA.
Point Pleasant is a small village at the junction of the Kanawha with the
Ohio. It is noted as the site of the most bloody battle ever fought with the
Indians in Virginia — the battle of Point Pleasant — which took place in Dun-
more's war, Oct. 10, 1774. The Virginians, numbering 1,100 men, were
under the command of Gen. Andrew Lewis. The Indians were under the
celebrated Shawnee chieftain Cornstalk, and comprised the flower of the
Shawnee, Wyandot, Delaware, Mingo and Cayuga tribes. The action lasted
from sunrise until sunset, and was contested with the most obstinate bravery
on both sides. The Virginians at length were victorious, but with a loss of
more than 200 of their number in killed and wounded, among whom were
gome of their most valued officers. This event was mado the subject of a
rude song, which is still preserved among the mountaineers of western Vir
ginia :
SONG ON THE SHAWNEE BATTLE.
Let us mind the tenth day of October, By which the heathen were confounded, '
Seventy-four, which caused woe, Upon the banks of the Ohio.
The Indian savages they did cover
The pleasant banks of the Ohio. Col. Lewis and some noble captains
Did down to death like Uriah go,
The battle beginning in the morning, Alas ! their heads wound up in napkins,
Throughout the day it lashed sore, Upon the banks of the Ohio.
Till the evening shades were returning down
Upon the banks of the Ohio. Kings lamented their mighty fallen
Upon the mountains of Gilboa,
Judgment precedes to execution, And now we mourn for brave Hugh Allen,
Let fame throughout all dangers go, Far from the banks of the Ohio.
Our heroes fought with resolution
Upon the banks of the Ohio. 0 bless the mighty King of Heaven
For all his wondrous works below,
Seven score lay dead and wounded Who hath to us the victory given,
Of champions that did face their foe, Upon the banks of the Ohio.
Ceredo is a new town planted by Eli Thayer, of Massachusetts, and settled
by New England emigrants. It is on the Ohio River, in Wayne county, 5
miles above the mouth of the Big Sandy, the dividing line between Virginia
and Kentucky. A late traveler says :
Wayne county contains much excellent land that is level or nearly so, and easy
of cultivation, but by far the larger portion is quite hilly. The hills are more ab
rupt and cone-like than in many other counties in western Virginia, but even on
the highest of these hills the soil is excessively rich and productive. On the very
top of one of the highest hills in Wayne county was raised this season as fine corn
as I saw in Virginia. The best use, however, to which these rich hills can be put
is the growing of fruit. I saw wild grape vines three inches in diameter at the
base, with branches running to the very top of the highest trees. Frost never
troubles the most delicate fruits on the hills, while the bottom lands are occasionally
visited with frosts which interfere with the successful cultivation of various kinds
of fruits so admirably adapted to this soil and climate. A few nurseries have al
ready been planted which are doing exceedingly well. But little has been done of
late in the way of peach growing, though every effort in this line has proved a
great success. The peach crop from one orchard was sold last year on the trees
for $5,000. This region of country is better adapted to stock raising and the dairy
business than anything else, and for these purposes it has no superior, if, indeed, its
equal can be found.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Pocahontas, the daughter of Powhattan, the Indian chief of Virginia, was born
about the year 1595. She became warmly attached to the English, and on several
662 VIRGINIA.
Occasions rendered them important services. She saved the life of Capt. John
Smith in 1607, and two years afterward revealed the plot of the Indians to exter
minate the colonists. In 1612 she was seized by Capt. Argal and detained for the
purpose of obtaining favorable terms of her father. While with the English she
received the offer of marriage from Thomas Rolfe, an Englishman of good charac
ter, which was accepted with the consent of her father. By this event peace was
restored, which continued for many years. In 1616 she accompanied her husband
to England, and was received with much attention at court. She remained in Eng
land about a year, when she sickened and died at Gravesend, as she was on the
point of embarking for America. Lady Kebecca (as Pocahontas was called in
England) left an only son, from whom some of the most distinguished families in
Virginia trace their descent.
Capt. John Smith, the principal founder of Virginia, was born in Lincolnshire,
England. He was early distinguished for his daring spirit and love of adventure.
He left home at the age of fifteen, and went to France and the Netherlands. For
two years he studied military tactics, and then traveled to seek adventures. On a
voyage from Marseilles to Naples the Roman Catholic sailors, believing the young
English heretic to be a Jonah, threw him into the sea to calm a tempest by which
they were overtaken. He swam to the shore and proceeded to Alexandria, and
finally to Austria, where he entered the imperial service in the war against the
Turks. At the siege of Ragall he killed three Turkish champions in succession.
He was afterward taken prisoner, but escaped to Russia, and from thence returned
to Austria, where he embarked with a French captain for Morocco. At the Ca
naries he was engaged in a sea-fight with the Spaniards, and then returned to hia
native country. His restless spirit led him to seek for adventures in the New
World. Here, after the exercise of much valor and the endurance of many hard-
ehips, he planted the Virginia colony on a firm basis, and then returned to Eng
land. He died in London in 1631, at the age of 72.
George Washington, commander-in chief of the American armies during the rev
olutionary war, and first President of the United States, was born in Westmoreland
a
county, on the 22d (llth O. S.) of February, 1732. He received but few advanta
ges in his early school education. Having acquired some knowledge of mathemat
ics he became a practical surveyor. His military abilities were first made use of
by Governor Dinwiddie, in 1753. In 1789 he was unanimously elected the first
President of the United States. Having firmly resolved to return to private life
Washington published, in Sept., 1796, his "Farewell Address to the People of the
United States." On Friday, Dec. 13th, 1799, while attending to some improvements
on his estate, he was exposed to a slight rain; in consequence he was seized the
same night with an inflammatory affection of the wind-pipe, which was soon after
followed by a fever. He gradually sunk until Saturday night, at half past eleven,
on Dec. 14th, when he expired without a struggle, in the 68th year of his age.
Peyton Randolph, first President of the American Congress, and a descendant
of Pocahontas, was born in Virginia in 1723, and sent to England for education.
In 1756, when 33 years of age, he was made king's attorney for Virginia. In 1766
he was speaker of the house of burgesses. "He was elected a delegate to the first
continental congress, which assembled in Carpenter's Hall, Philadelphia, on the
5th of September, 1774. Charles Thompson recorded on that day : "The congress
proceeded to the choice of a president, when the Hon. Peyton Randolph, Esq., was
unanimously elected." This vote made him really the first President of the United
VIRGINIA. 663
States, for then and there our Union had its birth." He was again chosen president
when another congress met at the same place in May following, but feeble health
compelled him to resign the office, fourteen days afterward, when John Hancock was
chosen to fill his place. Mr. Randolph resumed his seat in congress early the fol
lowing autumn; and on the 22d of October, 1775. he died at Philadelphia, from the
effects of apoplexy, in the 53d year of his age."
Carter Braxton, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born at New
ington, King and Queen's
county. He was one of the
wealthiest men in his na
tive county. In December,
1775, he was chosen a dele
gate to the continental con
gress, to fill the vacancy occasioned by the death of Peyton Randolph. He died
Oct. 10, 1797, in the 61st year of his age.
Benjamin Harrison, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born at
Berkeley, on James River. His personal merits, joined to his wealth and family
connections, gave
him great influ
ence. He filled
several important
stations in the state
and in congress.
He died of gout in
the stomach, two
days after his re-election as governor in April, 1791. He married in early life a
relative of Mrs. Washington. They had a numerous offspring, seven of whom lived
to a mature age. One of the number was the late President of the United States,
William Henry Harrison.
Richard Henry Lee, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in
Westmoreland county, Jan. 20, 1732, near the time and place of Washington's
birth. He was
educated in
England; re
turned to Vir
ginia at the age
/ of 19, and ap
plied himself
to literary pursuits. He was elected to the house of burgesses at the age of twenty-
five. When in congress, Mr. Lee, was one of the "committee of correspondence,"
appointed in 1788. He was able to obtain important information of the movements
of the British Parliament by frequent letters from his brother Arthur Lee, a dis
tinguished literary character in London, and an associate with the leading men of
the realm. On the 7th of June, 1776, Mr. Lee introduced the important resolution
declaring the colonies free and independent. He continued in public life until his
bodily infirmities compelled him to retire. He died in 1794, in his 64th year.
Thomas Nelson, Jr., a signer of the declaration of independence, was born at
Yorktown, Dec., 1738. As was the custom of the times with the wealthy families
ofVirginia and the Carolinas, young Nel-
-— v son was sent to England to be educated.
./J ^! He returned to America in 1761. He was
a delegate to the continental congress until
1777, when, seized with an alarming illness,
he was obliged to resign his seat. In 1781
Virginia became the theater of important warlike operations, when Mr. Nehson,
having been elected governor, acted both as governor and as commander-in-chief of
the rnilitia of the state. By great exertions and personal expense he was able to
keep the rnilitia together until the capture of Cornwallis. Hoon after this event he
resigned his office and retired to private life. He died Jan. 4, 1789.
j
/
c*£e*-
664 VIRGINIA.
Francis Lightfoot Lee, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in
Westmoreland county, in 1734. His father dying when he was of an early age,
he was placed under the
care of Dr. Craig, a Scotch
clergyman of piety and
learning. Having caught
^f the spirit of his brother
Richard Henry Lee, he
was sent a delegate to the
continental congress, in which body he continued until 1779, when he retired in a
great measure from public life. He died in 1797, in the 63d year of his age.
George Wythe, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Eliza
beth county. Being left with a large fortune and the control of his own actions,
at the age of twenty-one he
left study and sought only
his own personal gratifica
tion. He continued this
course for about ten years,
when a sudden change was
wrought in all his conduct,
and he ever afterward pursued a course of virtue and usefulness. He filled vari
ous public offices, and notwithstanding the constant demand upon his time, he
taught a private school free to those who chose to attend it. Among other pupils
was his negro boy, whom he taught Latin, and was preparing to give him a thor
ough education when both he and the boy died, it is supposed by poison introduced
into their food by a near relative of Mr. Wythe. He died June 8, 1800, in the 81st
year of his age.
Henry Lee, the eminent cavalry officer of the revolution, was born in Virginia in
1756, and was educated at Princeton. He entered the army in 1776, when his
skill in discipline soon attracted the notice of Washington. He was commander of
the celebrated Lee's Legion which performed such gallant service in the army of
the south under Greene. From 1791 to 1794 he was governor of Virginia. He
was appointed by Washington commander of the forces to suppress the Whisky
insurrection. In 1799 he was a member of congress, and was selected by that body
to deliver an eulogy on the death of Washington, on which occasion he originated
and applied to the character of that great man that never to be forgotten sentence
— uFirst in war, first in peace, and first in the hearts of his countrymen." His
''Memoirs of the War in the South" is a work of much merit. He died in 1818,
in consequence of injuries received some years previously from a mob in Balti
more.
Patrick Henry, a celebrated patriot and orator, was born in Hanover county,
May 20, 1736. His education was obtained at a common school, and he rose to dis-
tinctionby
the superior
ity of his
. e was
XT n Ssf*/* I ed to the
£^ { I ^— rs Y /J >• s\ ^ M I , „.
house of bur
gesses, and
by some reso
lutions he in
troduced in reference to the stamp act he obtained the honor of being the first in
commencing the opposition to the measures of the British government which termi
nated in the revolution. In 1774 he was elected a member of the continental con
gress. On the retreat of Lord Dunmore, in 1776, he was appointed the first repub
lican governor of Virginia, and was afterward repeatedly re-elected to that office.
He retired from the bar in 1794, and died June 6, 1799. Mr. Henry was a sincere
Christian. In his will he left the following testimony respecting the Christian re
ligion: "I have now disposed of all my property to my faroily. There is one thing,
VIRGINIA. 665
and that is the Christian religion. If they have that and I had not given them one
shilling they would be rich, and if they have not that and I had given them the
whole world they would be^?oor."
George Mason, a distinguished statesman of Virginia, was born in 1725. Mr.
Jefferson said that he was "of the first order of wisdom among those who acted on
the theater of the revolution, of expansive mind, profound judgment, cogent in ar
gument, learned in the lore of our former constitution, and earnest for the republi
can change on democratic principles. His eloquence was neither flowing nor
smooth, but his language was strong, his manner most impressive, and strengthened
by a dash of biting criticism when provocation made it seasonable." Mr. Mason
was the framer of the constitution of Virginia, and a member of the convention
which formed the federal constitution, but he refused to sign that instrument. In con
junction with Patrick Henry, he opposed its adoption by the Virginia convention,
on the ground that the government of the states would be consolidated instead of
federal, and be liable to conversion into a monarchy. He also opposed with great
zeal the section allowing a continuance of the slave trade. He died in 1792, aged
67 years.
James Monroe, the fifth President of the United States, was born in West
moreland county, April 28, 1758. He graduated at William and Mary Col
lege, and having entered the American army as a cadet in 1776 he was
soon after appointed a lieutenant. He was at the battles of Harlaem Hights,
White Plains and Trenton, at which
latter place he was wounded. He
was aid to Lord Stirling in the
campaigns of 1777 and 1778, and
was at Brandywine, Germantown
and Monmouth. After the war.
Monroe filled^arious offices both
in the state and national govern
ments. In 1S17 he was chosen
successor to James Madison in the
presidency. In 1821 lie was unan
imously elected, with the exception
OAK HILL, SEAT OF PBESIDENT MONROE. of 0116 Vote. During the latter pe
riod of his life he was associated
with the ex-presidents Jefferson and Madison in founding the University of
Virginia. He resided at Oak Hill, Loudon county, 9 miles south of Lees-
burg. Mr. Monroe died in New York, July 4, 1831, on the anniversary of
American independence, like the ex-presidents Jefferson and Adams. The
building shown on the right in the engraving is of brick, and was built by
him when president. That on the left is a plain wood structure, and was
occupied by him prior to his inauguration.
John Marshall, Chief Justice of the United States, was born at a locality
called Germantown, in Fauquier county, 9 miles below Warrenton. His
father, Col. Thomas Marshall, was an able officer in the revolution. His son
John was the eldest of fifteen children. The limited means of Col. Marshall
compelled him to be almost exclusively the teacher of his children, and to
his instructions the chief justice said "he owed the solid foundation of all his
success in life." By the assistance of his father, and the persevering efforts of
his own mind, he continued to enlarge his knowledge, while he strengthened
his body by hardy, athletic exercises in the open air. These exercises were
continued to a late period of his life. At the age of twenty-one he
was commissioned as lieutenant in the continental service; in 1777 he was
appointed captain, and in that capacity served in the battles of Brandy-
666
VIRGINIA.
wine, Germantown and Monmouth. He was also with the army during their
sufferings at Valley Forge in the winter of 1778. Having given some atten
tion to the study of law, he, after the conclusion of the revolutionary war,
commenced its practice, and soon arose to distinction. In 1800 he was ap
pointed secretary of state, and in 1801 chief justice of the United States, in
which office he continued until his death. His residence was in Richmond.
He was distinguished for extreme plainness of person and dress, and a child
like simplicity of manners.
Chief Justice Marshall died at Philadelphia, July 6, 1835, in his 80th
year. "The love of simplicity and dislike of ostentation which had marked
his life displayed itself also in his last days. Apprehensive that his remains
might be encumbered with the vain pomp of a costly monument, and a laud
atory epitaph, he, only two days before his death, directed the common grave
of himself and his consort, to be indicated by a plain stone, with this simple
and modest inscription:"
JOHN MARSHALL, son of THOMAS and MARY MARSHALL, was born on the 24th of Septem
ber, 1775; intermarried with MARY WILLIS AMBLER the 3d of January, 1783; departed this
life the day of , 18—.
This unostentatious inscription, with the blanks only filled, is carved on
the plain white marble monument erected over his remains, in the grave-yard
at Shoccoe Hill, Richmond.
William Henry Harrison, the ninth President of the United States, was
born at Berkeley, on James River, below Richmond,
Feb. 9, 1773. His ancestors settled in Virginia in
1040, and the family name was always among the
most prominent in her history. He was educated at
Hampden-Sidney College, and turned his attention
to medicine. The hostilities of the Indians on the
north-western frontier having begun to excite atten
tion, young Harrison relinquished his professional
studies and joined the army for the defense of the
Ohio frontier.
He died April 4, 1841, just a month after his in
auguration to the presidency.
Henry Clay was born in Hanover county, April 12, 1777. His father
was a Baptist clergyman, in poor circum
stances, and lived in a farm-house in a
poor, piney region called the "Slashes of
Hanover." At the age of fourteen he
was placed in a store in Richmond; this
was soon left, and he was employed as an
amanuensis in the office of Chancellor
Wythe, and some others. He was hon
ored with his friendship, and through
his assistance obtained a knowledge of
law. In Nov., 1797 he removed to Lex
ington, Kentucky, where he soon rose to
distinction.
A beautiful statue of marble of Henry Clay by Hart, the Kentucky sculp
tor, was inaugurated at Richmond on the 12th of April, 1860. It is an ex
cellent likeness of the great statesman in the act of making a public address.
The idea of erecting this statute originated, in 1844, with Mrs. Lucy Bar-
BIRTH-PLACE OF PRESIDENT
IIAIIKISON.
BIRTH-PLACE OF HENRY CI.AY,
In the Slashes of Hauover.
VIRGINIA.
667
MONTPELIER, SEAT OF PRESIDENT MADISON.
bour, a Virginia lady, and the necessary funds were soon after raised to ac
complish this object.
James Madison was born March 16, 1751. He was intended as a states
man from his youth. In 1775 he was a member of the Virginia legislature,
and at that early age was distinguished for his maturity of understanding and
sage-like prudence. He was a member of the convention that formed the
constitution of the United States,
and took an active part in the de
liberations of that body. He was
also a member of the first congress,
and rendered important services in
setting the machinery of govern
ment in motion. During the pres
idency of Mr. Jefferson he was
secretary of state, and sustained
that office with singular ability.
He held a ready pen, had a clear,
philosophical perception of the
great principles on which the gov
ernment professed to act, and could
readily produce a defense of the course pursued. In March, 1809, he be
came president of the United States, and continued in that office until 1817,
when he retired to his farm to enjoy the repose of rural life. Mr. Madison
died June 28, 1836, at Montpelier, Orange county, at the seat which de
scended to him at the death of his father.
John Tyler, the tenth President of the United States, and successor of Har
rison, was born in 1790, in Charles City county, about 5 miles below Berke
ley, on James River.
Richard Dale, commodore in the United States navy, was born in Norfolk in
1756, and at twelve years of age went to sea. In 1776 he entered the navy as a
midshipman, was taken prisoner, and for a year was confined in the notorious Mill
Prison, from whence he escaped to France, joined the celebrated Paul Jones, and
w;is his first lieutenant in the bloody engagement of the Bon Homme Richard with
the Serapis. In 1801 he commanded the American squadron in the Mediterra
nean, lie died in 1826.
James Barron, commodore in the U. S. navy, was born in Virginia in 1768, en
tered the naval service of the state in the revolution, and that of the United States
in 1798, In 1807 he had command of the unfortunate Chesapeake when she was
attacked in a time of peace by the British frigate Leopard, of superior force. Sur
rendering to that vessel she was boarded for deserters and several of her crew
taken off. He was suspended for five years for this unfortunate occurrence. In
1820 he mortally wounded Commodore Decatur in a duel, lie died in 1851, aged
83 years. He had a high reputation for seamanship.
Edmund P. Gaines, major-general in the army of the United States, was born in
Virginia in 1777, and gained distinction in the war of 1812, and also in the Creek
war. He died in 1849, at the age of 72 years.
John Randolph was born in Chesterfield in 1773, and was a descendant, through
his mother, of Focahontas. His early life was spent at different places, under dif
ferent instructors, of most of whom he said he "never learned anything." From
179!) until 1829 he was (with the exception of two years) in congress; two years of
this period he was in the senate, and twenty-six years in the lower house. In 1830
President Jackson appointed him minister to Russia, but he returned home in a
Bhort time, and died in 1833.
Few men in the United States have attracted more notice than John Randolph.
His conversational powers were extraordinary, and there was au irresistible fasci-
668 VIRGINIA.
nation in his voice and manner. It has been said that when in the halls of legisla
tion "he never spoke without commanding the most intense interest. At his first
gesture, or word, the house and galleries were hushed into silence and attention.
His voice was shrill and pipe-like, but under perfect command, and in its lower
tones it was music. His tall person, firm eye, and peculiarly 'expressive fingers,'
assisted very much in giving effect to his delivery. His eloquence, taking its char
acter from his unamiable disposition, was generally exerted in satire and invec
tive; but he never attempted pathos without entire success In quickness of per
ception, accuracy of memory, liveliness of imagination, and sharpness of wit, he
surpassed most men of his day, but his judgment was feeble or rarely consulted."
The aphorism "a prophet is not without honor save in his own country" did not
apply to him. He was always an object of wonder and curiosity to all. On his
return from congress he often stopped at the hotel at the county seat of his resi
dence. On these occasions the multitude, though frequently seeing him, would
crowd the windows and doors to get a glimpse of that man about whose genius, ec
centricities and physical aspect there was so much of the incomprehensible.
Mr. Randolph was opposed to that feature in the federal constitution which gave
so much power to the president. To that, by his friends, has been ascribed his op
position to every executive.
He went for the independence of the representative. A quotation from one of
his speeches, supplied by the memory of one present, is here in point: "I was at
Federal Hall. 1 saw Washington, but could not hear him take the oath to support
the federal constitution. The constitution was in its' chrysalis state. 1 saw what
Washington did not see, but two other men in Virginia saw it — George Mason and
Patrick Henry — the poison under its wings."
The residence of this most eccentric of American politicians was in
Charlotte county, near the Staun-
ton River, about 60 miles south
east of Lynchburg. The name
Roanoke is derived from a small
creek running through the planta
tion. The buildings are in a dense
forest, which has scarce ever ech
oed to the woodman's ax. On
leaving the main road, the traveler
threads his way through the woods
by a narrow path, for about half a
mile, when, a few rods distant, the
ROANOKE, SEAT OF JOHN RANDOLPH. dwellings and OUt-houSCS suddenly
appear through the foliage, without
any cultivated land or clearing in view, seeming, from the wild seclusion and
primitive aspect of the spot to have been the abode of a recluse rather than
of a statesman whose fame extended beyond the limits of his native land.
A gentleman who visited the place shortly after the decease of its illustrious
occupant thus describes it:
"The two buildings in front were occupied by Mr. Randolph, and those in the
rear by his domestics. That on the right is clapboarded, and is much the most
commodious; it was the one in which he dwelt in summer. On the ground floor
are two rooms, one containing his books, the other is the drawing-room, adorned
with convenient and neat furniture. The library is large, well selected, and con
tains many rare works. Most of the books bear evidence of careful perusal, and
the striking passages are marked with the pencil. Among the many pictures and
portraits in these rooms is one of Pocahontas. The arms are bare to the elbow,
displaying an arm and a hand of exquisite beauty. The hair and eye are a raven
black, the latter remarkably expressive, and the whole countenance surpassing
lovely, and beaming with intelligence and benignity.
VIRGINIA. 669
The dwelling on the left was his winter residence, and the one in which he
usually partook of his meals. It is a log structure, which is entered through a
shed, paved with water-worn pebbles and supported by unhewn posts. Notwith
standing its extreme simplicity, it is richly furnished. These rooms are also hung
with portraits. One of them is a fine drawing of his servant Jupiter — or, as he is
commonly called, Juba — dressed as a sportsman, with a double-barreled gun on
his shoulder. Over the fire-place in the bed-room is a portrait of Mr. Randolph
when twelve years of age. It is a fine oil-painting, from the easel of the celebrated
Gilbert Stuart. In the fresh, rosy complexion, and round, chubby face of this beau
tiful little boy it would be difficult to trace any resemblance to the thin, cadaverous lin
eaments of the original in his latter years. '
In the depths of the forest near the little village of G-ordonsville, in the county
of Orange, and about twenty miles north-east of Charlottesville, stands an old
church, an humble, unpainted structure of wood. Around it clings a peculiar in
terest, for it was the church of the -Rev.
James Waddel. whose eloquence has been so
vividly portrayed in the pathetic description
of the Blind Preacher by Wirt in his British
Spy. Mr. Waddel was born in Ireland in
1732, was brought to this country in infancy,
and died in 1805. It has been supposed that
the description by Wirt was exaggerated, but
this is not so. Patrick Henry regarded him
as one of two of the greatest orators he ever
heard; and a distinguished clergyman also
CHUECH or THE BLIND PBKACHEB. _8aid of him : ''When other men preach men
look to see who is affected— when Dr. Wad-
del preached those not affected were the ex
ception." His biographer and grandson, Rev. Jas. W. Alexander, D. D., says of
him:
"In person Dr. Waddel was tall and erect, and when a young man he is said to
have been of striking appearance. His complexion was fair, and his eyes of a
light blue ; his mien unusually dignified, and his manners elegant and graceful.
His eloquence has become matter of tradition in Virginia. It electrified whole as
semblies, transfused to them the speaker's passion at his will — 'a species,' says
his biographer, 'I must be allowed to say, which I have seldom heard but in the
south.' Under his preaching audiences were irresistibly and simultaneously
moved, like the wind-shaken forest. Especially was his power great in so painting
sacred scenes as to bring the hearer into the very presence of the object."
Zachary Taylor, the thirteenth President of the United States, and the seventh
native of Virginia who has held that office, was born in Orange county in 1784.
The next year his father removed to Kentucky, and settled near the site of Louis
ville.
EXTRACTS FROM THE ANCIENT LAWS OF VIRGINIA.
1662.— Every person who refuses to have his child baptized by a lawful minister shall be
amerced 2,000 Ibs. of tobacco — half to the parish, half to the informer.
The whole liturgy of the Church of England shall be thoroughly read at church, or
chapel, every Sunday, and the canons for divine service and sacraments duly observed.
Church-wardens shall present at the county court, twice every year, in December and
April, such misdemeanors of swearing, drunkenness, fornication, etc., as by their own
knowledge, or common fame, have been committed during their being church- wardens.
To steal or unlawfully to kill any hog that is not his own, upon sufficient proof, the
offender shall pay to the owner 1,000" Ibs. of tobacco, and as much to the informer ; and in
case of inability shall serve two years, one to the owner and one trf the informer. Upon a
second conviction the offender shall stand two hours in the pillory and lose both his ears.
The man and woman committing fornication shall pay each 500 Ibs. of tobacco, and to
670 VIRGINIA.
bo bound to their good behavior. If either of them be a servant, the master shall pay the
500 Ibs. of tobacco, and the servant shall serve half a year longer than his time. If the
master shall refuse to pay, then the servant to be whipped. If a bastard be got and born,
then the woman to serve her master two years longer than her time, or pay him 2,000 Ibs
of tobacco, and the reputed father to give security to keep the child.
No marriage shall be reputed valid in law but such as is made by the minister, according
to the laws of England. And no minister shall marry any person without a license from
the governor or his deputy, or thrice publication of bans, according to the rubrick in the
common prayer book. The minister that doth marry contrary to this act shall be fined
10,000 Ibs. of tobacco.
All persons keeping tippling-houses without license shall be fined 2,000 Ibs of tobacco,
halt' to the county and half to the informer.
No master of any ship, vessel, etc., shall transport any person out of this colony without
a pass, under the secretary's hand, upon the penalty of paying all such debts as any such
person shall owe at his departure, and 1,000 Ibs. of tobacco to the secretary.
The court in every county shall cause to be set up near the court house a pillory, a pair
of stocks, a whipping- post, and a ducking-stool, in such place as they shall think conveni
ent — which not being set up within six months after the date of this act the said court shall
be fined 5,000 Ibs. of tobacco.
In actions of slander occasioned by a man's wife, after judgment passed for damages, the
woman shall be punished by ducking, and if the slander be such as the damages shall be
adjudged at above 500 Ibs. of tobacco, then the woman shall have ducking for every 500
Ibs. of tobacco adjudged against her husband if he refuse to pay the tobacco.
Enacted that the Lord's Day be kept holy, and no journeys made on that day, unless
upon necessity. And all persons inhabiting in this country having no lawful excuse shall
every Sunday resort to the parish church or chapel, and there abide orderly during the
common prayer, preaching and divine service, upon the penalty of being fined 50 Ibs. of to
bacco by the county court.
This act shall not extend to Quakers, or other recusants, who totally absent themselves,
but they shall be liable to the penalty imposed by the stat. 23 Eliz., viz: £20 sterling for
every month's absence, etc.; and all Quakers assembling in unlawful conventicles shall be
fined, every man so taken, 200 Ibs. of tobacco for every time of such meeting.
1663. — If any Quakers, or other separatists whatsoever, in this colony assemble them
selves together to the number of five or more of the age of sixteen years, or upward, under
the pretense of joining in a religious worship not authorized in England or this country,
the parties so offending, being thereof lawfully convicted by verdict, confessions, or noto
rious evidence of the fact, shall for the first offense forfeit and pay 200 Ibs. of tobacco; for
the second offense 500 Ibs. of tobacco, to be levied by warrant trom any justice of the peace
upon the goods of the party convicted; but if he be unable, then upon the goods of any
other of the separatists or Quakers then present. And for the third offense the offender,
being convicted as aforesaid, shall be banished the colony of Virginia.
Every master of a ship or vessel that shall bring in any Quakers to reside here after the
1st of July next shall be fined 5,000 Ibs. of tobacco, to be levied by distress and sale of
his goods, and enjoined to carry him, her or them out of the country again.
Any person inhabiting this country and entertaining any Quaker in or near his house, to
preach or teach, shall for every time of such entertainment be fined 5,000 Ibs. of tobacco.
NOKTH CAKOLINA.
ARMS OF NORTH CAROLINA.
THE territory of North Carolina was included in the region granted, in
1584, by Queen Elizabeth, to Sir Walter Kaleigh, under the general name
of Virginia. Its earliest permanent
settlement was commenced about the
year 1650. About this period, per
sons suffering from religious intoler
ance in the more northern part of
Virginia, fled from beyond her limits,
and, without license from any human
source, established themselves near
Albemarle Sound. Here they found
the winters mild, and the soil fertile.
Their numbers were annually aug
mented ; and " they acknowledged no
superior on earth ; and obeyed no
laws but those of God and nature."
In 1661, a body of English emi
grants from Massachusetts made a
settlement on the shores of Cape Fear
River. In 1663, the Indians proving
hostile and the land sterile, these people abandoned the settlement. Soon
after, their place was supplied by emigrants from Barbadoes. Sir John Yeamans
was chosen governor; and in 1665, the colony located near the mouth of Old-
town creek, on the south side of Clarendon or Cape Fear River; and a county
was established in that part of the province. In May, 1666, there were about
eight hundred persons in the colony, who supported themselves for some
years by exporting boards, shingles, timber, etc., to Barbadoes. They had
the good fortune to preserve peace with the Indians.
In 1630, Charles I granted to Sir Robert Heath all the territory between
30° and 60° of north latitude, extending from the Atlantic to the South Sea,
or Pacific Ocean. Sir Robert having neglected to comply with the conditions
of his patent, the king, in 1663, granted the same territory to Lord Claren
don and seven others, and invested them with ample powers of government
over all who should become inhabitants. To encourage emigration, it was
publicly promised that all the settlers should enjoy perfect religious liberty,
and be governed by a free assembly.
The settlers on Albemarle Sound were, on certain conditions, allowed to
retain their lands. A government over them was organized, at the head of
(671)
672 NORTH CAROLINA.
which Mr. Drummond was placed. The}7, however, were dissatisfied with
the regulations imposed, and revolted ; but their grievances being redressed,
they, in 1668, returned to their duty. At the request of the proprietors, the
celebrated John Locke, whose political writings were much read and admired,
prepared for the colony a constitution of government. This was so aristo-
cratical in its features, that it gave much dissatisfaction to the colonists. The
measures which were taken to introduce and enforce it, produced, with other
causes, an insurrection, in the progress of which the principal officers under
Mr. Locke's system, were seized and imprisoned. Virginia was applied to
for assistance in restoring order ; but the fear of punishment induced the in
surgents to submit before an armed force could be arrayed against them.
After the settlement at Charleston, S. C., had become established, it drew
many of the inhabitants from Clarendon (the settlement at Albemarle Sound),
and finally exhausted it. Being remote from Albemarle, the proprietors es
tablished a separate government over it. From this circumstance, arose the
distinctive appellation of North and South Carolina. The prosperity of the
northern colony was also much retarded by domestic contentions, to allay
which, Seth Sothel, one of the proprietors, was sent over as governor. But
his conduct, so far from restoring peace and contentment, increased the dis
orders which had before prevailed. During the six years which Sothel mis
ruled North Carolina, "his sole object," it is stated, "was plunder and prop
erty. For the sake of acquiring fees as governor or proprietor, he disputed
the best titles, and vexed the fairest traders. For a handsome bribe, he would
suffer felons to escape ; and he would distress the innocent for a small sum.
* * The patience of the people was at length exhausted by his tyranny,
and they seized him with the purpose of sending him to England ; but he
prayed that he might be tried by the next general assembly. He was tried
according to his request; and the assembly determined that he should im
mediately resign the government, and depart the country within twelve
months."
Such were the effects of bad government in North Carolina, that the popu
lation of the colony became much reduced. At a general court, in 1694,
the list of taxables did not exceed seven hundred and eighty-seven. This
was but a little more than half the number in the colony previous to the in
surrections. The successor of Sothel was Philip Ludwell, and to him suc
ceeded John Archdale, one of the proprietors, and a Friend, or Quaker, in
religious sentiment. Both these governors were popular, and the colony
prospered under their administration. In 1693, at the request of the Caro
linians, the constitution drawn up by Locke was abrogated by the proprie
tors, and each colony was afterward ruled by a governor, council, and house
of representatives.
In 1707, a company of Hugiienots, or French Protestants, arrived, and
seated themselves on the River Trent, a branch of the Neuse, with Rybourg,
their pastor. " They were sober, frugal, industrious planters ; and in a short
time became independent citizens." In 1710, a large number of Palatines,
fleeing from religious persecution in Germany, sought a place of refuge in the
same part of the province. To each person of these emigrants, the proprie
tors granted one hundred acres of land. The Palatines were furnished gratis
with tools sufficient for building houses. It was also stipulated that, within
four months from their arrival, they should be furnished with a certain num
ber of cows, hogs, and sheep, which were to be paid for at the end of seven
years; and half the remaining issue was to be returned in lieu of interest.
In the year 1712, a dangerous conspiracy was formed by the Coree and
NORTH CAROLINA. $73
Tuscarora Indians, for the extermination of the infant colony. This was
managed with great cunning and secresy. They surrounded the principal
town in the Tuscarora nation with a wooden breastwork, to secure their fami
lies. Here the warriors convened to the number of twelve hundred bowmen.
From this place of rendezvous, they sent out small parties by different roads.
At the change of the full moon, all of them had agreed to begin their mur
derous operations the same night. When the night came, they entered the
houses of the planters, and demanded provisions, and pretending to be
offended, fell to murdering men, women, and children, without mercy or dis
tinction. The savages, like wolves, ran from village to village. " Before
them was the repose of innocence ; behind, the sleep of death ." About Roan-
oke, one hundred and thirty-seven persons perished in the massacre.
Among these, were " a Swiss baron, and almost all the poor Palatines who
had lately come into the country." A few persons hiding themselves in the
woods and escaping, gave the alarm to their neighbors the next morning, and
prevented the destruction of the colony. The militia assembled in arms, and
kept watch until news of the disaster reached South Carolina.
Governor Craven lost no time in sending to their relief. The Assembly
voted four thousand pounds for the service of the war. A body of 600
militia, under the command of Col. Barnwell, and 366 friendly Indians, of
various tribes, marched, with great expedition, through a hideous wilderness,
to their assistance. In their first encounter with the Indians, they killed 300,
and took 100 prisoners. After this defeat, the Tuscaroras retreated to their
fortified town, where Barnwell surrounded them, killed a considerable num
ber, and compelled the remainder to sue for peace. In this whole expedition,
it was computed that nearly a thousand of the Tuscaroras were killed,
wounded, and taken prisoners. The remainder of the tribe, soon after, in
1713, abandoned their country, and joined the Five Nations, which received
them into their confederacy, and made them the Sixth Nation.
After this, the colony remained in peace, continuing under the general
government of South Carolina, until about the year 1729, when seven of the
proprietors, for a valuable consideration, vested their property and jurisdic
tion in the crown. Neither of the colonies had been prosperous under the
proprietory government ; the interests of the governors and governed being
apparently adverse to each other, the latter became discontented and rebel
lious. They complained to the king, who caused inquiry to be made in the
courts. The charter was declared to be forfeited, and over each colony sep-
erate royal governments were established.
Soon after this event, the soil in the interior and western part of North
Carolina became better known, and was found to be superior in fertility to
that on the sea-coast. The settlements, in consequence, rapidly advanced
into the wilderness. The most numerous settlers in the north-western part
of Carolina were the Scotch-Irish, chiefly Presbyterians from the north of
Ireland. The greater part of these people, or their ancestors, had formerly
migrated from Scotland. After a short residence in Ireland, finding they
were ill-treated in that country, they sought refuge in America. From the
northern colonies, particularly Pennsylvania, large numbers of emigrants
were drawn to this region by the mildness of the climate and the facilities
for obtaining the necessaries of life in abundance.
The people of North Carolina, in the earlier stages of the Revolution, were
distinguished for their patriotic devotion to the cause of American independ
ence. They opposed the arbitrary acts of the British government in 1769 with
success, and were among the very foremost, if not the very first, among the
674 NORTH CAROLINA.
colonists to declare themselves free from all foreign control. In May, 1775,
a military convention was held in Mecklenburg, which passed a series of
resolutions displaying the spirit, and even embodying some of the language,
of the great Declaration of Independence, issued to the world July 4, 1776.
This act may, therefore, be considered as the first public Declaration of
American, Independence. As early as 1767 a delegation from each militia
company in Orange county met and drew up a series of resolutions to regu
late affairs in that county. One resolution was to pay none .but legal taxes ;
another to petition the government for a redress of grievances, etc. Those
who associated for this purpose were called REGULATORS, and the confedera
tion was called " THE REGULATION." This association became so formidable
that Tryon, the royal governor, caused some of the leaders to be imprisoned.
This added fuel to the flame, and the contending parties had recourse to arms
on May 16, 1775, near the Allamance River, between Governor Tryon and
the Regulators, in which the latter were defeated, with the loss of nine
killed, beside a great number wounded. This has been considered by some
as the "first battle of our war for Independence," although not the first blood
shed.
"In the year 17£5 the inhabitants of Sullivan, Washington and Green,
which lie directly west of the mountains in this state, convened in com
mittee, appointed and held a convention, framed a constitution, elected their
governor, and, in short, erected themselves into a separate independent state,
by the name of the New State of franklin. This premature state was to
comprehend all that tract of country which lies between the mountains and
the suck or whirl in the Tennessee River. These proceedings occasioned
great confusion and warm disputes in North Carolina, which continued to
rage till 1788, when all pretentions to independency were relinquished and
tranquillity restored to the state." — Morses Geography, 1789.
North Carolina is bounded N. by Virginia, E. and S. E. by the Atlantic,
S. by South Carolina and Georgia, and N. W. by Tennessee. It lies between
33° 53' and 36° 33' N. latitude, and between 75° 25' and 84° 30' W. longi
tude, being about 450 miles in length and 180 in breadth, including an area
of upward of thirty millions of acres, of which, in 1850, only about five
and a half millions were improved.
Along the Atlantic coast of the state, and extending inward from fifty to
seventy miles, the land is low, level and swampy, intersected by many streams
which, from the nature of the surface, are neither rapid nor clear. West*
wardly from this tract, for a distance of forty miles, the land is more hilly
and broken, and the soil sandy. Farther on, above the falls of the rivers,
the country becomes elevated, and in some places mountainous, formed by
several ridges of the Alleghany Mountains running in a S. W. direction
through the state. These mountains vary from 800 to upward of 6,000
feet in elevation. Mt. Mitchell, or Black Mountain, on the borders of Yan-
cey and McDowell counties, is 6,470 feet in hight, being the highest mount
ain peak in the United States E. of the Mississippi River.
The soil in the district bordering on the sea-coast, and for some distance
into the interior, is generally poor, producing naturally no other timber than
pitch-pine, from which are procured great quantities of lumber, tar, pitch
and turpentine, constituting the chief articles of export from the state. Of
these naval stores the export exceeds that of any other, if not all, the states
of the Union. About 800,000 barrels of turpentine are annually exported.
The swampy spots are well adapted to the culture of rice. In the uplands,
and beyond the mountain ranges, the land is quite fertile. Indian corn
NORTH CAROLINA.
675
grows well in all parts of the state, and cotton is successfully cultivated.
The pitch-pine, of which the low lands produce such vast quantities, is gen
erally of a large size, far exceeding the dimensions of this timber found in
the more northern states. The celebrated Dismal Swamp, 30 miles in length
by 10 in width, lies in the northern part of the state, and extends into Vir
ginia. The tract is covered with a thick growth of pine, cypress, juniper
and oak trees. There are within the state upward of two million acres of
swampy lands, which might be made to produce great crops of rice, corn,
cotton and tobacco.
"Mineral products of great variety and value are found in the mountain
country of North Carolina, as in the neighboring mountain districts of South
Carolina and Georgia. Until the discovery of gold in California, this was
the most abundant gold yielding tract in the United States. The mines here
of this monarch of metals have been profitably worked for many years. At
the branch mint at Charlotte, in the minin«
;old was coined, be
tween and including the years 1838 and 1853, to the value of no less than
$3,790,033 ; the highest annual product being $396,734, in the year 1852.
The copper lands of the state, says Professor Jackson, are unparalleled in
richness. Coal, too, both bituminous and anthracite, is found here in great
abundance, and of the finest quality. Iron ore also exists throughout the
mountain districts. Limestone and freestone may be had in inexhaustible
supply. Marl is abundant in all the counties on the coast, and silver, lead,
manganese, salt and gypsum have been discovered."
Population, in 1790, 393,751 ; in 1820, 638,829; in J840, 753,419; and
in 1850, 868,903, of whom about one-third were slaves.
Western View of the Central Part of Wilmington.
The view shows the appearance of the central part of Wilmington, from tho ferry on the east side of Tap')
Fear River, opposite the foot of Market street. The market is seen in the miildle of the street; anil U-
yonrl it, on the right, the tower of the Episcopal Chnrrh On the opposite wide of the street west, UK-
building is now standing in which Cornwallia made his headquarters. The custom-house, with its flag
staff, appears on the left ; the massive building directly back is the Cape Fear Bank. Tho depth of wat«-r
in the river, by the ferry at the foot of Market street, is 38 feet.
WILMINGTON, the largest and most commercial place in North Carolina,
is on the east bank of Cape Fear River, 34 miles from the sea, 135 miles S.
43
676 NORTH CAROLINA.
E. from Raleigh, 180 N. E. from Charleston, and 365 from Washington.
The business and population have been greatly increased by the construction
of several railroads through it, and now it is on the great highway of travel
First House erected in Wilmington.
north and south. More than 20 steam-engines are employed in the manu
factories of this place, among which are 7 steam saw-mills, producing annu
ally about thirty million feet of lumber ; here are, also, 10 turpentine distillers.
The harbor of Wilmington has a difficult shoal at its entrance, but will float
vessels of 300 tuns. Four mail steamers keep up a daily communication
with Charleston, and several boats ply between this place and Fayetteville.
There are two islands, inclosed with different channels of the river, opposite
the town, on which are some of the finest rice fields in the State. Popula-
in 1840, 4,744; in 1850, 7,264; now, about 12,000.
The annexed engraving shows the appearance of the first house erected in
Wilmington. It is a few rods from the Carolina Hotel, in the central part
of the city. It is inclosed within the garden wall on the premises of Dr.
McCree, and is not seen from the street. The outside of the house is shin
gled, and stands on a somewhat elevated foundation. A fig-tree is seen at
the corner of the building, and several magnolia trees are on the left. When
this humble structure was erected, Brunswick, some fifteen miles below Wil
mington, was the principal town on the Cape Fear River. Many places in
this section of the state were settled by Scotch Highlanders and the Scotch-
Irish Presbyterians from Ireland. During the civil war in Scotland, many
of the Highlanders took up arms in favor of Prince Charles Edward, gener
ally called the Pretender. After the disastrous battle of Cullodon, in 1746,
which extinguished the prince's hopes of empire, his followers were cap
tured in great numbers, and several of their leaders perished on the scaffold;
and, for a time the English ravaged, with fire and sword, that part of Scot
land which had favored the prince. But a milder policy governed his ma
jesty George II, and many were pardoned on condition of taking the oath
of allegiance and emigrating to the plantations. This appears to have been
the origin of the large settlement of Highlanders on Cape Fear River.
This wilderness region now became a refuge for the harassed Highlanders, and
ship-load after ship-load landed at Wilmington in 1746 and 1747. In the course of
NORTH CAROLINA.
677
a few years large companies of industrious Highlanders joined their countrymen
in Bladen County. " Their descendants are found in the counties of Cumberland,
Bladen, Sampson, Moore, Robeson, Richmond and Anson, all of which were in-
3luded in Bladen at the time of their emigration, and are a moral, religious people,
noted for their industry and economy, perseverance and prosperity, forming a
most interesting and important part of the State. Their present descendants are
to be found everywhere in the South and West.'-'*
The Harriett House, Wilmington,
As it appears from the bridge over the eastern branch of Cape Fear River.
In 1746, during the administration of Governor Johnston, the seat of govern
ment was removed from Newbern to Wilmington, "then considered a new town at
the head of ship navigation on Cape Fear River, and named Wilmington in honor
of Lord Wilmington, the patron of Governor Johnston." This removal appears to
have been occasioned by the cunning management of the governor, to sustain his
authority and influence in the assembly, so that he could obtain the payment of
the salaries of the government offices, which were not paid as was expected. The
province was divided into several counties. The southern counties later settled
were more tractable than the northern, who had five representatives each, while
the southern counties, then equally populous, had but two. The governor, when
several of the northern members were absent, procured the passage of an act
placing all the counties on an equal footing, and another for the removal of the
seat of government.
Wilmington, during the revolution, was, for a short time, in possession of the
British troops. In the winter of 1781, Major Craig took possession and held
it until the following autumn. Lord Cornwallis, after his battle with General
Greene, at Guilford Court-house, occupied a house, as his headquarters, now stand
ing in the central part of Wilmington, at the corner of Market and Third streets.
He remained here some eighteen days, to recruit his shattered forces and to pre
pare for future operations. The floors still bear the marks of the ax of the Brit
ish scullions, who chopped their meat thereon.
The Harnett house, on the Hilton plantation, about one and a half miles north
from the central part of Wilmington, was, during the Revolutionary period, the
*Foote's Sketches of North Carolina.
678 NORTH CAROLINA.
seat of Cornelius Harriett, an active patriot in the American cause. It is now the
summer residence of Dr. James F. McKee. Mr. Harnett, called by some the
"Samuel Adams of North Carolina," (except in point of fortune,) was born in
England, in April, 1723. He emigrated to America, and was a man of wealth and
consideration before circumstances brought him into public life. He was a mem
ber of the assembly previous to the Revolution, and was chairman of the most
important committees of that body. He was among the earliest in North Carolina
in denouncing the stamp-act, and other kindred measures, and from that period
until his death was extremely active in public affairs.
In 1775, when Governor Martin resigned or abdicated his office, the provincial
council filled the vacancy by appointing Mr. Harnett president, who thus became,
in that capacity, the actual governor of North Carolina. In the provincial con
gress, which assembled in Halifax, he, on the 12th of April, 1776, submitted a
report which contained a resolution empowering the delegates of North Carolina
in the continental congress to use their influence in favor of a declaration of in
dependence. In the spring of 1776, when Sir Henry Clinton, with a British fleet, ap
peared in Cape Fear River, he offered a general pardon to all who should return
to their allegiance, excepting Mr. Harnett and Robert Howe. On the 22d of July,
when the declaration of independence arrived at Halifax, Harnett read it to a
great concourse of citizens and soldiers. As he concluded, the latter took him
upon their shoulders and bore him in triumph through the town. In the autumn
he was on the committee for drafting a state constitution and a bill of rights, and
to his liberal spirit the people were indebted for the clause in the first document
guaranteeing the privilege of enjoying the public offices and emoluments to dis
senters and churchmen equally. He was afterward a member of the continental
congress, and was one of the signers of the "articles of confederation and per
petual union." When the British held possession of the country around the
Cape Fear River, Harnett was made prisoner, and died, while a captive, at the
age of 58 years. His remains were buried in the graveyard attached to St.
James' church in Wilmington.
BRUNSWICK, fifteen miles below Wilmington, once a flourishing town but
now a desolation, was situated upon a sandy plain on the western side of
Cape Fear, on New Inlet, in full view of the sea. Wilmington, being more
eligibly situated, became its rival, and the place soon went to decay, and but
little now remains to denote the former population, except the ruins of St.
Philip's church, which was, one hundred years since, probably the finest
building of the kind in the province. It is situated within a thick grove of
trees, mostly pine, about forty rods from the river bank, and its massive
walls, built of large English brick, seem to be but little decayed by time.
The roof, floor, etc., have long since perished, and shrubbery grows on the
top of the walls. About a quarter of a mile north-east of the church are the
remains of the residence of Governor Tryon at the time of the stamp act
excitement.
NEWBERN, formerly the capitol of North Carolina, is situated at the con
fluence of the Neuse and Trent rivers, about 120 miles S. E. from Raleigh
and 50 miles above Pamlico Sound. It is a place of considerable trade,
and its chief articles of export are grain, lumber, turpentine, tar and naval
stores. The entrance from the sea is through Ocracoke Inlet. Population
about 5,000.
Newbern was first settled by a company of Palatines from Heidelberg, and its vi
cinity, on the Rhine. They were German Protestants, and. being persecuted in
their own country, about 6,000 of them fled to England for a place of refuge. Many
of these emigrated to America, among whom was a company under charge of
Christopher de Graffenried and Lewis Mitchell. These Palatines arrived in De
cember, 1709, at the confluence of the Neuse and Trent, where they erected tem
porary shelters until they could be put in possession of their lands. The place
on which they encamped was called Ncwbern, from Berne, in Switzerland, where
NORTH CAROLINA.
679
Graffenried was born. A short time before the war with the Tuscarora Indians,
John Lawson, the surveyor-general of the province, and Graffenried, who had been
created a baron and governor of the Palatines, made a voyage inasmall boat, up the
Neuse, to explore the country. Stopping at an Indian town near the river, they
were forcibly detained, brought to a solemn trial before a large assembly, and both
condemned to die. Lawson, who had been seen surveying lands on their territory,
Governor Tryoris Palace at Newbern.
was put to death ; but Graffenried, from a regard to his rank, his nation, or his in
nocence, was allowed to escape, though held for some time a prisoner. At this time
he secured his people, by a treaty he made with the Indians, from future assaults,
but the other inhabitants of Bath county continued in constant danger of their
lives.
In 1749 the first printing press was brought into North Carolina from Virginia,
by James Davis, and set up at Newbern. This was an important event in the po
litical history of the province. Hitherto the laws had been in manuscript, and it
was difficult for the people to obtain knowledge even of the most essential enact
ments. In the course of the year 1751, the printing of the first revisal of the acts
of the assembly was accomplished. The first periodical paper, entitled The North
Carolina Magazine, or Universal Intelligencer, was first published by Davis in
1764. It was printed at Newbern, on a demi sheet, in quarto pages. It was
mostly filled up with long extracts from theological writers, or selections from
British magazines.
William Tryon succeeded Governor Dobbs, in 1766, as governor of North Caro
lina. He was a native of Ireland, educated to the profession of a soldier, and was
an officer in the British service. He married Miss Wake, a relative of the Earl
of Hillsborough. Haughty in his disposition, he was fond of show, obsequious when
wishing favors, and tyrannical when independent. At the time of the stamp-act,
fearing the general expression of the people with regard to that measure, he pro
rogued the assembly, which was to meet in November, to the following March.
When the vessels arrived having the stamps on board. Tryon had issued his pro
clamation directing the stamp distributors to make application for them.
It was about this period that Tryon, to gratify his pride and love of display, made
a demand upon the assembly for an appropriation of twenty-five thousand dollars,
for the purpose of building a palace at Newbern "suitable for the residence of a
royal governor." "To obtain this appropriation, Lady Tryon, and her sister, Esther
Wake, both beautiful and accomplished women, used all the blandishments of
their charms and society to influence the minds of the burgesses. Lady Tryon
gave princely dinners and balls, and the governor finally succeeded in obtaining,
not only the first appropriation asked, but another of fifty thousand dollars, to com
plete the edifice. It was pronounced the most magnificent structure in America.*
The pride of the governor and his family was gratified; the people upon whom
the expense was laid were highly indignant."
*Lossing's Pict. Field-book of the Revolution. In the engraving annexed — a copy of
that in Lossing's admirable work — the center building is the palace, that on the right was
680
NORTH CAROLINA.
Dr. Morse, in his " American Geography," published in 1789, gives the
following description of Newbern and the palace :
" Newbern is the largest town in the State. It stands on a flat, sandy point of land
formed by the confluence of the river Neuse on the north, arid Trent on the South. Oppo
site the town the Neuse is about a mile and a half, and the Trent three quarters of a mile,
wide. The town contains about 400 houses, all built of wood except the palace, church,
the gaol and two dwelling-houses, which are of brick. The palace is a building erected by
the province before the Revolution, and was formerly the residence of the governors. " It
is large and elegant, two stories high, with two wings for offices a little advanced in front
toward the town ; these wings are connected with the principal building by a circular ar
cade. This once handsome and well furnished building is now much out of repair ; one of
the halls is used for a dancing and the other for a school room, which are the only present
uses of this palace. The arms of the king of Great Britain still appear in a pediment in
front of the building. The Episcopal Church is a small brick building, with a bell. It is
the only house for public worship in the place. A rum distillery has been lately erected in
this town. It is the county town of Craven county, and has a court-house and gaol. The
court-house is raised on brick arches, so as to render the lower part as a convenient market
place j but the principal marketing is done with the people in their canoes and boats at the
river-side."
CHARLOTTE, the capital of Mecklenburg county, on Sugar or Sugaw creek,
174 miles W. S.W. from Raleigh, and 110 from Columbia, S. C., is one of
the principal places in the western part of the state, containing about 3,000
inhabitants, and a branch of the U. S. Mint. The Charlotte and South Car-
_
Eastern view of the U. S. Hint, Charlotte.
olina and the North Carolina railroads connect at this place. A plank road
runs from here to Fayetteville, 120 miles distant. At Charlotte there is a
gold mine, and more or less of native gold is annually coined at the mint in
this town. In 1852 it amounted to about $400,000. The Gold Region of North
Carolina is principally in the counties of Rowan, Cabarras and Mecklenburg.
the secretary's office, and that on the left the kitchen. These buildings were connected
with the palace by a curviform colonade, of five columns each, and covered. The interior
of the palace was elegantly furnished. " Upon entering the street door," says Ebenezer
Huzzard, in bis journal in 1777, " you enter a hall in which are four niches for statues."
•'The chimney-breast of the council chamber was the most elaborate, being ornamented
by two Ionic columns below, and four columns, with composite capitols, above, with beau
tiful entablature, architrave and frieze." The palace was destroyed by fire about fifty year*
since; the two small buildings alone remain. The original drawings of the plan of the
building, etc., were obtained by Mr. Lossing from the Rev. Dr. Hawks, of New York, whose
ancestor was the architect.
NORTH CAROLINA. 681
The first gold mine discovered in the United States was the Reed gold mine,
in Cabarras county. The first piece of gold was picked up in a meadow
creek by Conrad Reed, a boy of twelve years of age, in 1799, on a Sunday,
during the absence of his parents at church; it was of the size of a small
smoothing-iron. Ignorant of its value, it lay for several years on the house
floor of Mr. Reed to place against the door to keep it from shutting. Mr.
Reed finally sold it to a jeweler for $3.50, and thought he had got a large
price ! Afterward another piece was found in the same creek which weighed
twenty-eight pounds!
The most famous of the North Carolina gold mines is at Gold Hill, in
Rowan county, a village of some 1,200 inhabitants. The main shaft of the
mine is more than 400 feet in depth. The ore is principally in veins of
quartz bedded in black slate. The works employ about 300 laborers, and
are chiefly under the direction of Cornish miners.
Charlotte has a historic interest from its being the place where a conven
tion of patriots assembled in 1775, and by the celebrated "Mecklenburg Dec
laration of Independence" which virtually declared its authors and those they
represented free and independent of the British crown. This convention
met on the 31st of May, 1775. and passed their various resolutions, which
was more than a year previous to the federal declaration at Philadelphia.
Charlotte was the point to which Gates retreated after his defeat near
Camden, in August, 1780. Cornwallis, after refreshing his army at Cam den.
and adopting further measures to keep South Carolina in subjection, moved
with his forces toward Charlotte, in order to subdue North Carolina before
the American congress could organize another army at the south. He
reached Charlotte toward the close of the month, where he expected to be
joined by Ferguson and his loyalists. In this he was disappointed, as that
officer was soon after killed at the severe battle on King's Mountain and his
whole force was broken up and dispersed. Gates, on the approach of Corn
wallis. retired with the remains of his army to Salisbury, and afterward to
Hillsborough. The loss of Ferguson and his corps caused Cornwallis to re
tire into South Carolina.
It was at Charlotte that Gen. Greene received the command from Gates of
the southern army fifty days after Cornwallis left the place.
About two miles S. W. of the central part of the place an action took place
during the revolution, between the British and American troops. The graves
of soldiers, designated by rough monuments having legible inscriptions, are
still to be seen. The following inscription is from a monument in the Char
lotte graveyard :
Sacred to the memory of Maj. Gen. George Graham, who died on the 29th of March, A.
D., 1826, in the 68th year of his age. He lived more than half a century in the vicinity of
this place, and was a zealous and active defender of his COUNTRY'S RIGHTS in the REVOLU
TIONARY WAR, and one of the gallant twelve who dared to attack and actually drove 400 Brit
ish troops at Mclntire's, 7 miles north of Charlotte, on the 3d of Oct., 1780. George Gra
ham filled many high and responsible public trusts, the duties of which he discharged with
fidelity. He was the people's friend, not their flatterer, and uniformly enjoyed the unlimited
confidence and respect of his fellow-citizens.
RALEIGH, the capitol of North Carolina, is situated in a healthy and ele
vated section of country in Wake county, 125 miles N. by W. from Wil
mington, 50 miles N. E. from Fayetteville, and 288 miles from Washington.
It is connected with the surrounding country by railroads in various direc
tions. Population is about 5,000. The city, for the most part, is plainly
682
NORTH CAROLINA.
built, and is distinguished principally as being the seat of government. The
State House is a superb edifice, 166 i'eet long by 90 wide, and constructed of
East view of the State House, or Capitol at Raleigh.
granite taken from a quarry in the vicinity. The model of the building is
from the Parthenon at Athens ; it is surmounted by a handsome dome. The
Eastern view of the Insane Asylum at Raleigh.
corner-stone was laid on the 4th of July, 1833. The whole cost of the build
ing is stated at about half a million of dollars. The city is regularly laid
out; in the center is Union Square, containing ten acres, from which extend
NORTH CAROLINA.
four streets, dividing it into four quarters. In the center of these quarters
are four other squares. Beside other public buildings, the city contains a
court house, the governor's house, the North Carolina Institute for the Deaf
and Dumb, the North Carolina Literary, Scientific and Military Academy,
etc. The former state house, containing a beautiful marble statue of Wash
ington, by Canova, was burned down in 1831.
The annexed engraving shows the appearance of the State Lunatic Asy
lum, situated on a commanding eminence upward of a mile south-west of the
State House in Raleigh. The first patients were received into this building
in March, 1856. The following inscription is copied from a monument
in the Raleigh grave-yard:
In memory of WILLIAM POLK, born in the county of Mecklenburg, July 9th, 1758; de
parted this life January 14, 1831, aged 75 years 6 months and 5 clays. A gallant soldier
throughout the war by which the independence of his country was established. A pure
and ardent patriot, inflexible in integrity, firm in friendship, and true and warm in every
social affection. He possessed while living the respect and attachment of all who knew
him, and left an affectionate veneration for his character deeply impressed in the hearts of
his widow and children, who have caused this monument to be erected.
HILLSBOROUGH, the capital of Orange county, is situated on the Eno, a
branch of the Neuse River, on the line of the Central Railroad, 44
miles N. W. of Raleigh.
This place was laid out in
1759, by W. Childs, and
was first called Childs-
burg, in honor of the then
attorney general of the
province. Its name was
afterward changed to
VIEW OF THE REGULATOR BATTLE-GROUND.
The view is from the south side of the Salisbury road, which runs
l)y the fence on the left. The opposing parties met each other in the
open field north of the road. The graves of some of the slain are
still to be seen by the fence.
Hillsborough. in compli
ment, it is said, to the
Earl of Hillsborough, the
secretary of state for the
colonies. During the rev
olutionary war, Hillsbor
ough was a place of some
note, being a kind of cen
tral spot for military op
erations. In the vicinity
between this place and
Greensboro was fought the
battle of Allamance, be
tween Gov. Tryon and the Regulators, on the 16th of May, 1771, which
may be considered the first battle of our war for independence.
The Regulators in redressing their grievances committed excesses — closed the
superior court, and in some instances roughly handled and beat the officers of gov
ernment. Gov. Tryon being informed of these proceedings dispatched his secre
tary to Hillsborough with a proclamation ordering the insurgents to disperse, and
requiring the civil and military officers in Orange and the adjacent counties, in
case of necessity, to give their assistance in restoring peace. Two of the leaders
of the Regulators, William Butler and Hermann Husbands, were imprisoned.
All the efforts of Gov. Tryon to quell the rising spirit of the Regulators proved
unsuccessful, and the question which now seemed to be at issue was who should
rule the colony? With this view of the subject, Tryon determined to march a body
of men into the chief settlements of the Regulators, and support the sheriffs in col-
684 NORTH CAROLINA.
lecting the taxes. That he might obtain troops on whom he could depend, he
wrote to the commanding officer in each county not in the opposition to draw a
company of volunteers from their several regiments and hold them in readiness
for service. Hugh Waddel was appointed general of the forces, and he was in
structed to march with the division from Bladen, Cumberland and the western
counties. These troops were to rendezvous at Salisbury on May 2d, and join the
militia from the southward and eastward in Guilford county. " The governor ar
rived at Bryant's, in Johnstone county, on the 1st of May, with 800 men. He pro
posed to be at the place of rendezvous on the 13th, and Gen. Waddel was to regu
late his march accordingly. The general had been waiting at Salisbury for the
arrival of powder from Charleston, but the Regulators fell upon the convoy and
destroyed the powder. Waddel now proceeded according to his orders, but the
next day after he crossed the Yadkin he received a message from the Regula
tors ordering him to stop. Finding many of his men averse to fighting, "and
being inferior in numbers, Waddel recrossed the river and with a few of his fol
lowers escaped to Salisbury.
Gov. Tryon had crossed Haw River when he was informed of Wacldel's retreat.
His situation had become critical, and nothing but a bold and expeditious stroke
could save him. He now broke up his camp on the Eno, crossed the Haw just be
low the falls, and pressed forward toward the Allamance, where he understood the
Regulators were collecting in force on the Salisbury road. On the 15th he crossed
the Great A llemance, and encamped within six miles of the Regulators. At dawn
the following morning he marched silently and undiscovered along the Salisbury
road until within half a mile of the camp of the Regulators, where he formed his
line in battle order. The force under Tryon was about one thousand; that of the
Regulators more than double that number, but they were without competent offi
cers.
Dr. Caldwell, who was on the ground with his parishioners, now visited the gov
ernor in order to induce him to abstain from bloodshed, but Tryon demanded un
conditional submission. "Both parties advanced to within three hundred yards of
each other, when Tryon sent a magistrate with a proclamation ordering the Regu
lators to disperse within an hour. Robert Thompson, an amiable but bold, out
spoken man, who had gone into Tryon's camp to negotiate, was detained a pris
oner. Indignant at such perfidy, he told the governor some plain truths, and was
about to leave for the ranks of the Regulators when the irritated governor snatched
a gun from the hands of a militia-man and shot Thompson dead. Tryon perceived
his folly in a moment, and sent out a flag of truce. The Regulators had seen
Thompson fall, and, deeply exasperated, they paid no respect due to a flag but fired
upon it. At this moment Dr. Caldwell rode along the lines and urged his people
and their friends to disperse." Tryon, guided by his passions, gave the order to
Fire ! His men hesitated, and the Regulators dared them to fire. Maddened with
rage, the governor rose in his stirrups and shouted, "Fire! Jire on them or on me I"
A volley ensued. The cannons were discharged with deadly effect; the military
commenced firing by platoons — the Regulators in an irregular manner from behind
trees. Some stout young men among them rushed forward and seized the cannon
of the governor, but not knowing how to use them speedily gave them up and re
treated. A flag of truce was sent out by the governor to stop the battle, but it was
fired on and the flag fell. The firing was now renewed with fresh vigor by Tryon's
men, when the Regulators generally fled, leaving a few posted behind the trees,
who continued their fatal aim until their ammunition was exhausted or they were
in danger of being surrounded. Nine of the Regulators and twenty-seven of
Tryon's men were killed, beside a great number wounded on both sides.
Tryon after the battle seemed actuated with a spirit of revenge on the prisoners he
had taken. On the evening of the battle he hung a young man by the name of
Few, and afterward, at Hillsborough, six others. Resting a few days near the
battle-ground, he then went on as far as the Yadkin, offering pardon to all who
should lay down their arms and take the oath of allegiance, except a few whom he
named. He made a circuitous route through Stokes, Rockingham and Guilford
counties, exhibiting his prisoners in chains in the villages through which he passed.
He exacted an oath of allegiance from the people, levied contributions of provis-
NORTH CAROLINA.
ions, and chastised those who offended him by burning their houses or destroying
their crops. After this expedition Tryon returned to his palace at Newburn, where
he remained but a short time, having been called to the administration of affairs in
the province of New York.
The defeat on the Allamance did not break the spirits of the patriots; many of
them, in order to escape the oppressions of extortioners abandoned their homes
with their wives and children, went beyond the mountains, and began settlements
in the fertile valleys of Tennessee. The result of the battle on the Allamance was
ultimately somewhat disastrous in its effects. The oath which Tryon forced many
to take was considered as binding by most of the conscientious people in this sec
tion. When the hostilities of the revolution fully commenced a large number of
persons whose sympathies were with the patriots felt bound by their pledge to re
main passive. "Hundreds of men with strong hearts and hands would have flocked
around the standards of Gates and Greene in Guilford, Orange, and the neighbor
ing counties, had not their oath been held too sacred to be violated."
CHAPEL HILL, a post village in Orange county, is situated on New Hope
River, a branch of Cape Fear River, 28 miles W. N. W. of Raleigh and 12
from Hillsborough. The village extends about one and a half miles in length
by one in breadth. Population about 1,000. It is distinguished principally
as being the seat of the "University of North Carolina," one of the most re
spectable institutions of the kind in the United States. The University
buildings are situated in a noble grove of native oaks, and the grounds of the
institution, which are very extensive, are beautifully laid out, and adorned
with trees, shrubbery, etc. The structure on the left is the east building,
immediately back of which the college library building is partially seen; the
south building is seen in the central part; the west building appears on the
right, back of which is the chapel. Beside the president, there are ten pro
fessors and four or five tutors, and generally not far from four hundred
students. There are about 14,000 volumes in the libraries of the Uni
versity. The annual commencement is on the first Thursday in June.
The University possesses quite a valuable collection of paintings (portraits) of
distinguished persons, which are distributed in various rooms or halls in the Uni
versity buildings, comprising the following persons: Rev. Dr. Caldwell, the first
president of the University; Wm. R. King, late vice-president; President Polk,
painted by Sully at an expense of $500; Gen. Wm. R, Davie, taken in 1800, when
minister to Prance ; Mr. Dobbin, secretory of the navy; Judge Mason, minister to
France; Gov. John Owen; Gov. Swaim, now president of the University; Dr. Mitch
ell, late senior professor; Gov. Branch, Gov. Manly, secretary of the board of
trustees; Senator Badger, secretary of the navy; Rev. Dr. Hooper, Rev. Dr.
Hawks, Hon. Wm. Gaston, Chief Justice Ruffin, Capt. John Blakely, lost in the
Wasp; James Mevane, Judge Murphy, and a very superior painting by Brown, an
English artist, of the Hon. Wm. R. Graham.
President Swaim has in his possession the first Bible brought into North Caro
lina, brought by George Durant, who settled Durant Neck, Perquimans county;
he has also the first newspaper, the first political pamphlet, and the first book
printed in North Carolina. The president has also in his collection of antiquities
a portrait of George 111., on the back of which, in good preservation, is the auto
graph of Gen. Greene in chalk: "0 George hide thy face and mourn!" When
Gen. Greene was in Salisbury the portrait of the king was hanging in the room at
the house where he quartered. He then wrote the foregoing with chalk upon
the back and turned its face to the wall.
On Dec. 11, 1789, the Legislature of North Carolina, in accordance with the pro
visions of her constitution, adopted Dec. 6th, 1776, requiring all useful learning to
be promoted in one or more universities, incorporated an university, with the fol
lowing preamble to its charter: "Whereas in all well regulated governments it is
the indispensable duty of every legislature to consult the happiness of a rising gen
eration and endeavor to fit them for an honorable conduct of the social duties of
686
NORTH CAROLINA.
life, by paying the strictest attention to their education; and whereas an univer
sity supported by permanent funds and well endowed would have the most direct
tendency to answer the above purpose. Be it therefore enacted, etc." Forty persons
were elected as "the Trustees of the University of North Carolina."
"The first meeting of the trustees was held in Fayetteville Nov. 15, 1790, and
the work of gathering funds to erect buildings and maintain teachers was com
menced. In December, 1791, the state made a loan of $10,000, which was after
ward converted into a donation, and the trustees determined to select a site and
erect buildings. According to the charter, a 'healthy and convenient situation,
which shall not be situated within five miles of the seat of government, or any of
the places of holding the courts of law and equity,' was to be chosen by the trus
tees according to their discretion. On the 1st of November, 1792, a committee of
six met at Pittsborough to determine the precise locality of the University, the
North View of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill.
trustees having decided in August in favor of the neighborhood of Cypress Bridge,
on the road from Pittsborough to Raleigh. Liberal offers were made b}^ various
proprietors to secure the location on their tracts or in their neighborhoods. On
the 9th the committee unanimously chose Chapel Hill, and the same day the citi-
/ens of the neighborhood conveyed eleven hundred and eighty acres of land to the
University, and made a subscription of about $1,600 to assist in carrying the de
signs of the trustees into speedy execution." — Foote s Sketches of North Carolina.
The North Carolina Journal,' Halifax, for Sept. 25, 1793, says : "The seat of the
University is on a high ridge. There is a gentle declivity of three hundred yards
to the village, which is situated in a handsome plain, considerably lower than the
site of the public buildings, but so greatly elevated above the neighboring country
as to furnish an extensive landscape. The ridge appears to commence about half
a mile directly east of the college buildings, where it rises abruptly several hun
dred feet; this peak is called Point Prospect. The Peak country spreads off below
like the ocean, giving an immense hemisphere, in which the eye seems to be lost
in the extent of space." On Oct. 12, 1793, the first lots in the village were sold,
and the corner-stone of the first building was laid with Masonic procession and
ceremonies by William Richardson Davie. The Rev. Dr. McCorkle, of the Pres
byterian Church, the only clergyman then in the corporation, addressed the as
sembly at length.
NORTH CAROLINA. 687
The buildings being in a state of sufficient forwardness to accommodate stu
dents, the trustees selected Rev. David Kerr as the first professor; Mr. Samuel A.
Holmes was associated with him as tutor in the preparatory department. The first
student on the ground was Mr. II in ton James, from Wilmington, who arrived Feb.
12, 1795, and on the 13th the public institution commenced. Mr. Kerr was a grad
uate of Trinity College, Dublin, a member of the Presbyterian Church, who had
emigrated to America in 1791, and had resided in Fayetteville as a preacher, and
also as teacher of a classical school for about three years. In the fall of 1796 Rev.
Joseph Caldwell, a tutor in Nassau [Jail College, New Jersey, on the invitation of
the Trustees, removed to Chapel Hill as professor of mathematics. The course of
instruction in the University had been carried on about eighteen months, and the
regular course of studies not yet settled nor the classes formed; funds were small
and the students few; the library and apparatus yet to be procured, and the fac
ulty not more in number than is required in a high school.
''The history of the institution as a place of education," says Mr. Foote, properly
commences with the labors of Joseph Caldwell. He was the presiding professor
and then president, and for some forty years directed the studies of the classes,
performing the duty of the laborious professor and of president, of a faithful
teacher and the responsible governor, till the institution which began so small
grew up to a standard of excellence, at his death, unsurpassed by any institution
of a similar kind in the southern country, and second to few in the United
States."
Mr. Caldwell was born at Leamington, New Jersey, April 21, 1773, and was edu
cated at Princeton, under Dr. Witherspoon. While an assistant in a classical
school at Elizabethtown, N. J., he came under the ministry of Rev. David Austin,
an eloquent though somewhat erratic preacher, originally from New Haven, Conn.
The mind of Mr. Caldwell became so impressed that he began a course of study for
the ministry, and afterwards when a tutor at Nassau Hall he continued his theolo
gical studies under the direction of Dr. Witherspoon. He was subsequently licensed
to preach by the Presbytery of NewBruns^yick. Mr. Caldwell in 1804 was elected
to the office of President, being the first to fill that chair in the University. In
1812 he resigned that office, and confined himself to the mathematical department.
He was again called to the chair in 1816, and continued to hold the office till the
day of his death, Jan. 27, 1835.
Davidson College, founded in 1840, is in Mecklenberg county, and Wake
Forest College, at Forestville, was established in 1838.
Fayetteville is on the west side of Cape Fear River, at the head of un
interrupted boat navigation, 100 miles N. W. of Wilmington and GO S. from
Raleigh. The town is pleasantly situated about a mile back from the river, and
is regularly laid out, with streets 100 feet in breadth. It is the center of an
extensive trade, which is facilitated by plank roads running in various direc
tions. In the surrounding country are extensive forests of pine, which supply
important articles of export in the form of turpentine, tar, lumber, etc. The
river navigation has been extended, by the construction of locks and dams,
as far as the coal mines in Chatham county. An arsenal of construction
has been established here by the government. There is a good water power,
on which, beside the shops of the arsenal, there are a number of cotton fac
tories, flouring mills, grist mills and saw mills. The establishment of tur
pentine distilleries has added to the prosperity of the town.
A considerable portion of this place was destroyed by fire in 1831 ; nearly
$100,000 dollars were contributed to the relief of the sufferers by persons in
various places. Population is about 8,000.
The original name of Fayetteville was Cross Creek; this name had its
origin from the curious fact that the two small streams Cross creek and
Blunt's creek, the one coming from the south and the other from the west,
met and apparently separated, and forming an island of some size, again
united and flowed on to the river. It was said that the streams, when
(388 NORTH CAROLINA.
swelled by rains, would actually cross each other in their rapid course to form
a junction. In 1762 a town was laid out embracing Cross creek, and named
Gampbettton, from a town of that name in Argyleshire, in Scotland, from
whence and its neighborhood many of the emigrants had come. The object
of the legislature appears to have been to form a trading town upon Cape
Fear River, of which Wilmington should be the seaport, to take the produce
from the upper part of the state, particularly the settlements on the Yadkin,'
and prevent the trade being diverted to South Carolina. In 1771 a public
road was opened to the Yadkin, and ultimately to Morgaritown.
In 1784, on the occasion of the visit of the Marquis Lafayette, as a token
of respect for his character and for his revolutionary services, the inhabitants
proposed to change the name of their village to Fayetteville, while the town
was called by the legislative name of Campbellton and the country name of
Cross Creek. The noted Flora McDonald made her abode here for a short
time. The foundations of her residence are still to be seen near the bridge,
on the right hand, when passing from the market to the court-house.*
During the war of the revolution, Cross Creek was the place of assemblage
of the Scotch forces on whichever side they were engaged, as the original
settlers in this region, and for a long time all the inhabitants, were Scotch
men and Presbyterians.
As the production of turpentine is so important an element in the industry
of North Carolina, we annex the following details from the work of a late
traveler in this region, who obtained his information from observation and in
quiry chiefly at Fayetteville and vicinity :
Turpentine and Naval Stores — Turpentine is the crude sap of pine trees, It
varies somewhat in character and in freedom of flow, with the different varieties,
the long-leafed pine (Pinus Palustris) yielding it more freely than any other.
There are very large forests of this tree in North and South Carolina, Georgia
and Alabama, and the turpentine business is carried on to some extent in all these
states — in North Carolina, however, much more largely than in the others, because
in it cotton is rather less productive than in the others, in an average of years.
Negroes are, therefore, in rather less demand, and their owners oftener see their
profit in employing them in turpentine orchards than in the cotton fields.
In the region in which the true turpentine trees grow, indeed, there is no soil
suitable for growing cotton; and it is only in the swampy parts, or on the borders
of streams flowing through it that there is any attempt at agriculture. The farmer
in the forest makes nothing for sale but turpentine, and when he cultivates the
land his only crop is maize, and of this, I was often told, not more than five bushels
from an acre is usually obtained. Of course no one would continue long to raise
such crops if he had wages to pay for the labor, but having inherited or reared the
laborers, the farmer does not often regard them as costing him anything more than
what he has to pay for their clothes and food, which is very little.
Few turpentine farmers raise as much maize as they need for their own family,
and those who carry on the business most largely and systematically frequently
* Foote's Sketches of North Carolina, — Flora McDonald is quite celebrated in history as
the young woman who, in 1746, assisted Prince Charles, the Pretender, in his escape from
Scotland. The prince made his escape to France, but Flora was afterward carried a pris
oner to London and cast into the Tower. She excited much sympathy and admiration on
account of her romantic exploit in saving the prince. She was released from prison, and re
turned to Scotland with distinguished honors. Four years afterward she married Allan, the
son of the Laird McDonald. In 1775 Flora and her husband, with several children, arrived
among their countrymen in North Carolina. Full of loyalty, she encouraged her country
men to rally in defense of the royal cause. The family returned to the island of Skye, in
Scotland, where this heroine died in 1790.
NORTH CAROLINA.
689
TURPENTINE DISTILLERY.
purchase all the food of their hands. Maize and bacon are, therefore, very largely
imported into North Carolina, chiefly from Ohio, by the Baltimore and Wheeling
Railroad, and from Baltimore to Wilmington or Newbern by sea.
The turpentine forest is from thirty to eighty miles wide, and extends from near
the north line of North Carolina to the Gulf of Mexico. Until lately, even in North
Carolina, the business of
collecting turpentine has
been confined to such parts
of the forest as were situ
ated most conveniently to
market, the value of the
commodity not warranting
long inland transportation.
Recently the demand haa
increased, owing, proba
bly, to the enlarged con
sumption of spirits of tur
pentine in burning fluids,
and the business has been
extended into the depths
of the forest. It is yet
thought a hazardous ven
ture to start the business
where more than thirty
miles of wagoning is re
quired to bring the spirits
of turpentine to a railroad
or navigable water.
If we enter in the winter
a part of a forest that is
about to be converted into
a "turpentine orchard," we come upon negroes engaged in making boxes, in which
the sap is to be collected the following spring. They continue at this work from
November to March, or until, as the warm weather approaches, the sap flows freely,
and they are needed to remove it from the boxes into barrels. These boxes are
not made of boards, nailed together in a cubical form, as might be supposed, nor are
they log troughs, such as, at the North, maple sap is collected in. They are cavi
ties dug in the trunk of the tree itself. A long, narrow ax, made in Connecticut,
especially for this purpose, is used for this wood-pecking operation, and some skill
is required to use it properly.
The boxes being made, the bark, and a few of the outer rings of the wood of the
tree, are cut off ( "hacked' ') along the edge of the upper lip. From thig excoriation
the sap begins to flow about the fifteenth of March, and gradually fills the boxes,
from which it is taken by a spoon or ladle, of a peculiar form, and collected into barrels.
In from seven to ten days after the first hacking the trees are again scarified.
This is done with a hatchet, or with an instrument made for the purpose. A very
slight chip, or shave, above the former is all that is needed to be removed, the ob
ject being merely to expose a new surface of the cellular tissue, the flow from the
former being clogged by congelations of the sap.
Distillation of Turpentine — A considerable amount of turpentine is shipped in barrels to
northern ports, where it is distilled; a larger amount is distilled in the state. The proprie
tors of the large turpentine orchards, themselves, have stills, and those collecting but a
small quantity sell to them, or to custom distilleries, owned by those who make distilling
alone their business.
The stills used for making spirits or oil of turpentine from the crude gum are of copper,
not materially different in form from common ardent-spirit stills, and have a capacity of
from five to twenty barrels, an average size being, perhaps, ten barrels.
The forest distilleries are usually placed in a ravine or valley, where water can be
brought to them in troughs, so as to flow, at an elevation of fifteen feet from the ground,
into the condensing tank. At a point at which the ground will decline from it in one di
rection, the still is set in a brick furnace. A floor or scaffold is erected on a level with the
(390 NORTH CAROLINA.
bottom of the still-head, and a roof covers all. The still-head is taken off, and barrels of
turpentine, full of rubbish as it is collected by the negroes, are emptied in. When the still
is full, or nearly so, the still-head is put on, and the joint made tight with clay; fire is
made, and soon a small, transparent stream of spirits begins to flow from the moutli of the
worm, and is caught directly in the barrel in which it finally comes to market. When all
the spirits which can be profitably extracted are thus drawn off, the fire is raked out of the
furnace, a spigot is drawn from a spout at the bottom of the still, and the residuum flows
out, a dark, thick fluid, appearing as it runs, like molasses.
This residuum is resin, or the rosin of commerce. There is not a sufficient demand for
rosin, except of the first qualities, to make it worth transporting from the inland distiller
ies; it is ordinarily, therefore, conducted off to a little distance, in a wooden trough, and
allowed to flow from it to waste upon the ground.
The turpentine lands that I saw were valued at from five to twenty dollars an acre.
They have sometimes been sold at two dollars an acre, and those of Georgia and Alabama
can be purchased to any extent at that price. From 500 to 1,000 trees (or 2,000 boxes),
I judged, stand usually upon an acre.
A North Carolina turpentine orchard, with the ordinary treatment, lasts fifty years. The
trees are subject to the attack of an insect which rapidly kills them. Those most severely
hacked are chiefly liable to this danger.
7'«ris an extract from the pine-wood obtained by charring it. It is made wholly from
the heart or "light wood'' of the long-leafed pine, which is split into billets of a size con
venient for handling and arranging in the tar-kiln. Pilch is a concentration of tar, made
by boiling it.
Slaves and other people in the turpentine forests — The negroes employed in this branch of
industry seemed to me to be unusually intelligent and cheerful. The whites employed are
generally poor, having almost no property but their own bodies, and the use of these, that
is their labor, they are not accustomed to hire out statedly and regularly, so as to obtain
capital by wages, but only occasionally by the day or job, when driven to it by necessity.
A family of these people will commonly hire, or "squat" and build, a little log cabin, so
made that it is only a shelter from rain, the sides not being chinked, and having but little
furniture or pretension to comfort. They will cultivate a little corn, and possibly a few
roods of potatoes, cow-peas and coleworts. They will own a few swine, that find their
living in the forest, and pretty certainly, also, a rifle and dogs; and the men, ostensibly,
occupy most of their time in hunting.
A gentleman of Fayetteville told me that he had several times appraised, under oath,
the whole household property of families of this class at less than twenty dollars. If they
have need of money to purchase clothing, etc., they obtain it by selling their game or meal.
If they have none of this to spare, or an insufficiency, they will work for a neighboring
farmer for a few days, and they usually get for their labor fifty cents a day, finding them-
Slices. The farmers say that they do not like to employ them, because they cannot be re
lied upon to finish what they undertake, or to work according to directions, and because,
being white men, they cannot "drive" them. That is to say, their labor is even more in
efficient and unmaiiageable than that of slaves.
The majority of what I have termed turpentine farmers — meaning the small proprietors
of the long-leafed pine forest land — have habitations more like houses — log-cabins com
monly, sometimes chinked, oftener not — without windows of glass, but with a few piece?
of substantial*, old-fashioned heir-loom furniture; a vegetable garden, in which, however,
you will find no vegetable but what they call "collards" (colewort) for "greens"; more
swine, and larger clearings for maize, but no better crops than the poorer class. Their
property is often of considerable money value, consisting mainly of negroes, who, associ
ating intimately with their masters, are of superior intelligence to the slaves of the wealth
ier classes.
The larger proprietors, who are also often cotton planters, cultivating the richer low
lands, are sometimes gentlemen of good estate — intelligent, cultivated and hospitable.
North Carolina Fisheries — The shad and herring fisheries upon the sounds and inlets of
the North Carolina coast are an important branch of industry, and a source of considerable
wealth. The men employed in them are mainly negroes, slave and free, and the manner
in which they are conducted is interesting, and in some respects novel.
The largest sweep seines in the world are used. The gentleman to whom I am indebted
for the most of my information had fifty thousand dollars invested in his fishing establish
ment. He was the proprietor of a seine over two miles in length. It was manned by a
force of forty negroes, most of whom were hired at a dollar a day, for the fishing season,
which usually commences between the tenth and fifteenth of March, and lasts fifty days.
In favorable years the profits are very great. In extremely unfavorable years many of the
proprietors are made bankrupt.
Cleaning, curing and packing houses are erected on the shore, as near as they conve-
NORTH CAROLINA. 59 }
niently may be to a point on the beach suitable for drawing the seine. Six or eight wind
lasses, worked by horses, are fixed along the shore, on each side of this point. There are
two large seine boats, in each of which there is one captain, two seine tenders, and eight
or ten oarsmen. In making a cast of the net, one-half of it is arranged on the stern of
each of the boats, which, having previously been placed in a suitable position — perhaps a
mile off shore, in front of the buildings — are rowed from each other, the captains steering,
and the seine tenders throwing off, until the seine is all cast between them.
Scotch Highlanders — Immigration — In the vicinity of Fayetteville there are many Scotch
Highlanders. The emigration of these people to North Carolina commenced in the early
colony days, and has been continued, at intervals, to the present time. They come direct,
in a small" class of vessels, to Wilmington.
Cabin in the Pine Forest.
Very few Highlanders come to New York, or to other parts of the United States; the
largest proportion of those emigrating arrive at Quebec and remain in Canada. In this
they are led simply by their clannishness ; like sheep, they follow one another without
looking right or left for an easier leap; the stream once started, there is no diverting it.
I remember to have found the Highlanders at home familiar with the names of districts and
towns in Canada, though they had no knowledge whatever of the United States, and used
the names Canada and America synonomously. Probably, in some districts of the High
lands, no one knows of any other port in America than Wilmington. You frequently find
people who can speak Gaelic in North Carolina, and sometimes a small settlement where
it is the common tongue; there are even one or two churches in the state in which the ser
vices are performed in Gaelic.
The immigrants of the present generation have nearly all come to Fayetteville. Most
of them are very poor, and obtain employment as laborers as soon as they can get it after
their arrival. In a year or two they will have saved money enough from their wages to
purchase a few acres of piny-wood land, upon which they rai^e a cabin, make a clearing,
and go to raising corn and a family. They are distinguished for frugality and industry,
and, unless they are very intemperate — as too many of them are — are certain in a few years
to acquire money enough to buy a negro, which they "are said to be invariably ambitious to pos
sess. Before they die they will have got a family or two of young negroes about them, to
be divided as a patrimony among their children. With a moderate competence they are
content, and seldom become wealthy. Their children do not appear, generally, to retail*
44
692 NORTH CAROLINA.
their thrifty habits. I saw a number of girls of Highland blood employed in a cotton fac
tory near Fayetteville. In modesty, cleanliness, and neatness of apparel, though evidently
poor, they certainly compared favorably with the girls employed in a cotton mill that I
visited near Glasgow a few years ago.
Wagoners — Having observed from my room in the hotel at Fayetteville a number of re
markable, bright lights, I walked out, about eleven o'clock, in the direction in which they
had appeared, and found, upon the edge of an old field, near the town, a camp of wagon
ers, with half a dozen fires, around some of which were clustered groups of white men and
women and negroes cooking and eating their suppers (black and white from the same ket
tle, in many cases), some singing Methodist songs, and some listening to a banjo or
fiddle-player. A still larger number appeared to be asleep, generally lying under low
tents, about as large as those used by the French soldier. There were thirty or forty great
wagons, with mules, cattle or horses, feeding from troughs set upon their poles. The
grouping of all among some old sycamore trees, with the fantastic shadows and wavering
lights, the free flames and black brooding smoke of the pitch-pine fires, produced a most
interesting and attractive spectacle, and detained me long in admiration. I could easily
imagine myself to be on the Oregon or California trail, a thousand miles from the realm
of civilization — not readily realize that I was within the limits of one of the oldest towns
on the American continent.
These were the farmers of the distant highland districts and their slaves come to market
with their produce. Next morning I counted sixty of their great wagons in the main
street of the little town. They would generally hold, in the body, as much as seventy-
five bushels of grain, were very strongly built, and drawn by from two to six horses, the
nearer wheeler always having a large Spanish saddle on his back for their driver. The mer
chants stood in the doors of their stores, or walked out into the street to observe their con
tents — generally of corn, meal, flour or cotton — and to traffic for them. I observed that
the negroes often took part in the bargaining, and was told by a merchant that both the
selling of the produce and the selection and purchase of goods for the farmer's family was
often left entirely to them.
Several of the wagons had come, I found, from a hundred miles distant, and one of them
from beyond the Blue Ridge, nearly two hundred miles. In this tedious way, until lately,
before the introduction of railroads and plank-roads, nearly all the commerce between the
back country and the river towns and seaports of Virginia and North Carolina has been
carried on, strong teams of horses toiling on, less than a score of miles a day, with the
lumbering wagons, the roads running through a sparsely settled district of clay soil, and
much worse, even, than those of the sandy lands I have described. Every night, foul or
fair, the driver and attendants, often including the farmer himself, and part of his family,
camp out on the road- side.
Greensboro* ) the capital of Guilford county, is situated on the Central Rail
road, 86 miles W. N. W. from Raleigh, and about four miles southward of
the battle-ground of Guilford Court-house. It has a healthy situation, and
the surrounding country is fertile. It is a place of considerable business,
having two banks and several manufactories. It has several valuable literary
institutions, and it is believed that here the first female seminary in the
southern states was established.
After the battle of Cowpens, in South Carolina, General Morgan moved
off toward Virginia with his prisoners, upwards of five hundred in number.
He was closely pursued by Lord Cornwallis, who had hopes of retaking the
prisoners. General Greene, who, at this time, was in command of the south
ern American army, rode one hundred and fifty miles from his main army
through the country to join the detachment under General Morgan, that he
might be in front of Lord Cornwallis, and direct both divisions of his army
so as to form a speedy junction between them. The following account of
the subsequent events which took place, and of the battle of Guilford, March
15, 1781, is from Holmes' Annals:
"Greene, on his arrival, ordered the prisoners to Charlotteville, and directed the
troops to Guilford court-house, to which place he had ordered General Huger to
proceed with the main army. In this retreat the Americans endured extreme
hardships with admirable fortitude. The British urged the pursuit with such ra-
piditv that they reached the Catawba on the evening of the same day on which the
NORTH CAROLINA.
693
Americans crossed it, and before the next morning a heavy fall of rain rendered that
river impassable. A passage at length being effected, the pursuit was continued.
The Americans, by expeditious movements, crossed the Yadkin on the second and
third days of February, and secured their boats on the north side ; but the Brit
ish, though close in their rear, were incapable of crossing it, through the want of
boats and the rapid rising of the river from preceding rains. This second re
markable escape confirmed the Americans in the belief that their cause was fa
vored by Heaven.
"After the junction of the two divisions of the American army at Guilford court
house, it was concluded, in a council of officers called by General Greene, that
he ought to retire over the Dan, and to avoid an engagement until he should be
re-inforced. Lord Cornwallis kept the upper countries, where only the rivers are
fordable, and attempted to get between General Greene and Virginia, to cut off
his retreat and oblige him to fight under many disadvantages, but the American
general completely eluded him. Ho urgent was'the pursuit of the British, that on
the 14th of February the American light troops were compelled to retire upward
of forty miles ; and on that day General Greene, by indefatigable exertions, trans
ported his army over the Dan into Virginia. Here again the pressure was so close
that the van of the British just arrived as the rear of the Americans had crossed.
The continental army being now driven out of North Carolina, Earl Cornwallis
left the Dan and proceeded to Hillsborough, where he set up the royal standard.
Greene, perceiving the necessity of some spirited measure to counteract his lord
ship's influence on the inhabitants of the country, concluded, at every hazard, to
recross the Dan. After maneuvering in a very masterly manner to avoid an action
Battle-ground at Guilford Court-house.
The view annexed is from an eminence south-west of the site of the old Guilford Court-house, near the
junction of the roads — one running north to Bruce's Cross Roads, the other west to Salem. In the dis
tance, near the center, is seen Martinsville, and between it and the foreground is a rolling vale, furrowed
by gulleys. In an open field on the left of the road, seen in the hollow toward the left of the picture, wa*
the fiercest part of the battle. The old log-house on the right was uninhabited, and is at the extreme
western bounds of the field of battle. Nothing remains of the old Guilford Court-house hut a broken
chimney. The view was taken by Lossing, for his Field Book, during a fall of enow.
with Cornwallis three weeks, during which time he was often obliged to ask broad
of the common soldiers, his army was joined by two brigades of militia from
North Carolina and one from Virginia, together with 400 regulars. This re in-
forcement giving him a superiority of numbers, he determined no longer^to avoid
an engagement. The American army consisted of about 4,400 men, of which more
694 NORTH CAROLINA.
than one-half were militia; the British of about 2,400, chiefly veteran troops. The
Americans were drawn up in three lines. The front line was composed of North
Carolina militia, commanded by generals Butler and Eaton; the second of Vir
ginia militia, commanded by Stephens and Lawson ; the third of continental troops,
commanded by General Huger and Colonel Williams. The British, after a brisk
cannonade in front, advanced in three columns, the Hessians on the right, the
guards in the center, and Lieutenant-Colonel Webster's brigade on the left, and
attacked the front line. The militia composing this line, through the misconduct
of an officer in giving occasion to a false alarm, precipitately quitted the field.
The Virginia militia stood their ground, and kept up their fire until they were
ordered to retreat.* The continental troops were last engaged, and maintained
the conflict with great spirit an hour and a half, but then were forced to give way
before their veteran adversaries. The British broke the second Maryland brigade,
turned the American left flank, and got in rear of the Virginia brigade. On their
appearing to be gaining Greene's right, and thus threatening to encircle the whole
of the continental troops, a retreat was ordered, which was well conducted. This
was a dear victory to the British, whose killed and wounded amounted to several
hundred.f Lieutenant-Colonel Webster, an officer of distinguished merit, died of
his wounds much regretted by the whole royal army. About 300 of the conti
nentals and 100 of the Virginia militia were either killed or wounded; among the
former was Major Anderson, a most valuable officer of the Maryland line."
Thomasville, Davidson county, on the line of the North Carolina Bail-
road, 23 miles west from Greensboro', is a very recent village, founded by
J. W. Thomas, Esq., in 1855, on a site of which he was the proprietor.
The two first buildings were log-shanties. Mr. T. commenced the settlement
upon the puritan plan of not selling the land to any person except those of
good moral character and of industrious habits. The good results are ap
parent to the observer on his first glance at the neatness of the dwellings
and the prosperous appearance of the place. The " Thomasville Female
Seminary" is a brick structure, four stories high, having all the modern
improvements for the accommodation of pupils. Trinity College under the
patronage of the Methodist Episcopal church, six miles distant, from Thom
asville, is at present under the care of Bev. B. Craven, its founder.
Sdlcm, of Forsyth county, is 120 miles W. by N. from Baleigh. The Mo
ravian female seminary here is one of the largest in the State, occupying four
large brick buildings, and about 200 pupils. The place contains a bank,
several factories and mills, and is noted for the number and skill of its me
chanics. Population about 2,000.
Salisbury, the capital of Rowan county, is a thriving town on the line
of the North Carolina Railroad, containing about 3,000 inhabitants. The
trap dykes in the vicinity were for a long time supposed to be artificial con
structions, the origin and purpose of which gave rise to many conjectures.
Among the notable objects of the place is the office in which General Jack
son studied law.
Asheville, Buncombe county, 250 miles W. from Raleigh, 125 from
Charlotte, 62 from Greenville, Tennessee, and the same distance from Green
ville, South Carolina. It contains several literary institutions. The female
academy, erected in 1853, under the patronage of the Methodist Episcopal
church, has upward of 500 young ladies under instruction, who all wear a
^General Stephens, their heroic commander, had posted 40 riflemen at equal distances,
twenty paces in rear of his brigade, with orders to shoot every man who should leave his
post.
fThe return of killed, wounded and missing, on the part of the British, stated the whole
number to be 532.
CAROLINA. 6Q5
prescribed dress. Lee's College, for young men, has about 100 pupils. The
court-house erected here in 1852 is one of the finest in the state. Popula
tion about 3,000. The site of Asheville is ascertained to be 2,200 feet above
the level of the sea. Several medicinal springs are in the vicinity, which
are much resorted to during the summer season. Mt. Mitchell is about 25
miles distant.
Edenton, capital of Chowan county, is at the head of Edenton Bay.
(which opens into Albemarle Sound,) 150 miles E. from Raleigh. It is one
of the principal places in the N. E. part of the state, containing about 1,500
inhabitants. It was founded in 1716, under the name of Queen Anne's
Creek, which was changed about 1720, in compliment to Charles Eden,
royal governor of the province. "St. Pauls, an ivy-mantled church, was built
here in 1725, and is, evidently, the pet of the place." The fishing business
is extensively carried on in this vicinity in the waters of Albemarle Sound.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Joseph Hewes, a signer of the declaration of independence from North Carolina,
was born at Princeton, N. J., in 1740. He was educated at the college in Prince
ton, and was afterward apprenticed to a merchant in Philadelphia. At the age of
thirty years he removed to Edenton, and
/ was sent to the continental congress in
+ / /?/ 1774. He was placed at the head of the
t/ O~<3 £^l/vl^&fy~€^€Sl~{sf naval committee, and he may be consid-
' ered as the first secretary of the navy of
the United States. His health failing
him, he was obliged to resign his seat. He left it October 29, 1779, and died in
eleven days afterward, in the fiftieth year of his age. He was the first and only
one of all the signers of the declaration of independence who died at the seat of
government, and his remains were followed by congress, in a body, to the grave.
William Hooper, a signer of the declaration of independence, was of Scotch
descent, born at Boston, Mass., June 17, 1742. He graduated at Harvard College,
with distinguished honors, and afterward studied law in the office of the cele
brated James Otis. Having completed
• his studies, he removed to North Caro-
l*na» wnere many of his Scotch rela-
tives resided. He was elected the fir&k
e •' delegate to the continental congress.
Mr. Hooper, like the other signers of
the declaration, was obnoxious to the British party. Every means were used to
possess his person, harass his family, and destroy his estate. Feeling the^ pro
gress of a fatal disease, he withdrew from public life, and died at Hillsboro', Oc
tober, 1790, aged forty-eight.
John Penn, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Caroline
county, Virginia, May 17, 1741. His early education was quite limited, yet, by
improving the opportunities within his
reach, he qualified himself for the legal
profession, and, a.t the age of twenty-one,
he was admitted to the bar. He removed
to -^orth Carolina in 1774, where his abili
ties and patriotism soon became known, and
he was sent a delegate from this state to
the continental congress. In 1781, Mr. Penn retired from public life and resumed
the practice of his profession. He died in September, 1788, in the forty-seventh
year of his age.
Robert Howe, major-general in the Revolution, was descended from " the noble
house of Howe in England." He was born in Brunswick county, N. Y., in 1732,
696
NORTH CAROLINA.
and was educated to the bar. With Cornelius Harnett he was honored with the
ban of outlawry for his excessive patriotism. He wras colonel of the first North
Carolina regiment in 1775, and, for his gallantry at Norfolk, against Dunmore, was
made brigadier-general. He was afterward promoted to the chief command of
the southern army. He performed much useful service, co-operated with Wayne
at Stony Point. He died just after the close of the war.
William Polk, a revolutionary officer, was born in North Carolina, in 1759, and
was the son of Colonel Thomas Polk, the leading man in the celebrated Mecklen
burg convention. In the Revolution he went north with General Francis Nash,
who was killed at GermantoAvn. Mr. Polk was in the battles of Brandywrine, Ger-
mantown, Guilford and Eutaw. In 1812, he was offered by President Madison
the commission of brigadier-general, but, being opposed to the war, he declined.
He died in 1835. Leonidas Polk, D. D., bishop of the Protestant Episcopal church
in Louisiana, and General Thomas G. Polk, of Mississippi, are his sons.
Nathaniel Macon, an eminent statesman and a man whom John Randolph, in
his will, described as "the best, and purest, and wisest he ever knew," was born
in Warren county, in 1757. He served as a private in the Revolution, re
fusing an office when tendered him, which was characteristic, also, of his subse
quent career, for neither the love of fame and power, nor the acquisition of wealth,
seemed ever to possess any charm for this single-hearted lover of his country.
From 1791 until 1815 he was a representative in the lower house of congress, and
from then until 1828 in the senate. From 1801 .to 1805 he was speaker of the
house, and from 1825 to 1828 president pro tern, of the senate. "He was thus a
member of congress thirty-seven consecutive years, a longer term of service than
was ever given by one man." He was appropriately styled the Father of the
House, and men of all creeds looked up to him as a patriarch for counsel and
guidance." In 1835, he was president of the constitutional convention of the
state, and died in 1837, leaving a reputation at which even party spirit could find
nothing to cavil.
"The Hornet's Nest" as Mecklenburgh county, was termed in the Revolu
tion, from the activity and numbers of the rebels to the crown with which
it swarmed, was the
birth-place of two pre
sidents of the United
States, Andrew Jack
son and Jas. K. Polk.
The latter was born
in 1795, and, at eleven
years of age, removed
with his father's fami
ly to the state of Ten
nessee, the Mecca of
adventurous North
Carolinians at that day.
He, however, after
ward returned to his
native state, and re
mained long enough
to avail himself of the
advantages of an edu
cation at Chapel Hill,
where he carried off the highest honors of his class. Jackson's residence in
his native state was even more brief. When five days old his father died,
and a month later his widowed mother took up her residence in the vicinity
of Waxhaw Creek, in the upper part of South Carolina. At about nineteen
years of age he likewise emigrated to Tennessee.
BIRTH PLACE OF PRESIDENT JACKSON.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
THE first attempt to make a settlement within the limits of South Caro
lina was made in 1562, by John Riband, a French Protestant. This was at
the time of the civil wars in France,
and Ribaud's design was to found a
settlement in this distant region as a
retreat from persecution. With two
ships of war and a considerable body
of forces, he sailed to America, made
land in the thirtieth degree of latitude,
but, not finding a harbor, sailed north
erly until he discovered Edisto River.
Near this he built a fort which he
named Caroline, in which he left a
garrison of twenty-six men, and then
returned to France. During the fol
lowing winter the garrison mutinied,
assassinated their commander, and in
the spring abandoned the settlement,
and sailed for Europe. On their voy
age, their provisions failing, they ap
peased their hunger with human flesh ;
at last they were taken up by an Eng
lish ship, landed in England, and conducted to the queen, to relate their
adventures.
In 1564, Laudoniere, another Frenchman, carried another colony and
planted them on the same spot. But the Spaniards, jealous of this settle
ment, sent a large force under Melandez, with orders " to put all heretics
to death" found 'in these regions. This order was, for the most part,
strictly obeyed, as he succeeded in destroying the colony, putting to death
in the most barbarous manner both old and young, a few only escaping to
France. Melandez left a garrison of twelve hundred men to keep possession
of the fort and country. In 1568, Gourges, a native of Grascony, in order
to revenge the outrages of the Spaniards, equipped three ships, sailed to
Carolina, and, with the assistance of the Indians, took the fort, razed it to
the ground, and slew most of the Spaniards. He then returned to France,
and both nations abandoned the country.
In 1663, the Earl of Clarendon, and seven others, obtained by grant from
Charles II, of England, a patent of the lands in America lying between the
(697)
ARMS OF SOUTH CAROLINA.
MOTTO; Animis opibusque parati. Ever ready
with our lives and property.
698 SOUTH CAROLINA.
31st and 36th degrees of N. latitude. Two years after this grant was con
firmed, and the limits extended from the twenty-ninth degree to thirty-six
and a half, and between these parallels from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean.
The proprietors, in virtue of their powers, employed the celebrated John
Locke to frame for them a constitution and body of laws. This constitu
tion, consisting of one hundred articles, was aristocratical, and, though ap
pearing well on paper, could never be successfully reduced to practice.
In 1664, the proprietors of Carolina sent Captain Sayle to explore the
coast, who, on his return made a favorable report of the country. In 1670,
Captain Sayle, with a small company, arrived at Port Royal and begun a
settlement, but he soon fell a victim to disease. In 1671, the settlers re
moved to the banks of Ashley River, and begun what has been called old
Charleston. In 1680, they began the present city of Charleston.
"At the coming of the European settlers," says Mr. Simms, in his history
of the state, "South Carolina was occupied by no less than twenty -eight
nations or tribes of Indians. The chief of these were the Chickasaw, the
Cherokee, Catawba, Muscoghee and Choctow. The inferior were the Ye-
massee, Congaree, Santee, Wateree, Saluda, Chickaree and Serratee. These,
with the exception of the Catawba, are either extinct or have emigrated to
the south-west; of the Catawba but a miserable and profligate few remain."
The Indian names, many of which have been preserved throughout the
state, will show in most respects the regions they severally occupied ; as
the Congarees occupied the country which is watered by the river of that
name, the Santees the Santee, the Saludas the Saluda, and many others.
In 1690, a number of French protestants, or Huguenots, driven from France
by the revocation of the edict of Nantes, settled in the state, and were after
ward followed by a number of Irish, Germans and Swiss. The proprietors
having observed the good conduct of the French protestants, directed the
governor to permit them to elect representatives, a privilege which they had
never yet exercised. The English Episcopalians, considering the French
as their hereditary enemies, who did not belong to their church, were un
willing that they should be associated with themselves in the enjoyment of
the rights of freemen, opposed the concession with great clamor and zeal.
They even went so far as to endeavor to put in force the laws of England
against foreigners, insisting that they could not equally possess real estate in
the colony, and that the marriages solemnized by French ministers were
void, and that the children could not inherit the property of their fathers.
By the display of such an illiberal and unchristian spirit, these strangers
became alarmed and discouraged. But, being countenanced by the governor,
they remained in the colony, and, for a time, withdrew their claim to the
right of suffrage. This, however, did not put an end to the persecution.
Such was the general turbulence and disorder, the people complaining of
their rulers and quarreling among themselves, that, in 16$5, John Archdale
was sent over as governor of both Carolinas, with full power to redress all
grievances. He succeeded in restoring order, and, in the course of a few
years, the prejudices against the exiles became so softened that they were ad
mitted by the general assembly to all the rights of citizens and freemen.
Although the proprietors had stipulated that liberty of conscience should
be enjoyed, yet one of them, Lord Grandville, a bigoted churchman, and
James Moore, the governor, determined to effect, if possible, the establish
ment of the Episcopal form of worship in the colony. Although a majority
of the people were dissenters, yet, by the arts and intrigue of the venal
governor, a majority of the assembly were induced to pass a law establishing
SOUTH CAROLINA.
the Episcopal religion, and excluding dissenters from a seat in the assembly.
By the influence of Lord Granville this law was confirmed by the pro
prietors.
The dissenters now saw themselves deprived of those privileges for which
they had left their native country, and encountered so many hardships and
privations in the wilderness. Some began to make preparations to leave the
colony and settle in Pennsylvania ; others proposed that a remonstrance
against the law should be presented to the house of lords. This latter mea
sure was adopted. The lords expressed by a vote their disapprobation of
the law, and, upon their solicitation, Queen Anne declared it void. Lord
Granville soon after died, and the colony enjoyed a season of comparative
quiet.
In 1702, war having taken place between England and Spain, Governor
Moore, of Carolina, proposed an expedition against the Spaniards at St. Au
gustine. A large majority of the assembly were in favor of it, and they
voted two thousand pounds sterling for the service. Six hundred Indians
were engaged, and six hundred militia were raised, and embarked at Port
Royal, with the governor at their head. The governor, with the main body,
proceeded by sea to block up the harbor. Colonel Daniel, with a party,
went by the inland passage, and succeeded in plundering the town before the
arrival of the governor. The Spaniards retired to their castle with the
most valuable effects, and Governor Moore, having in vain attempted to dis
lodge them, was obliged to retreat by land to Carolina. This expedition en
tailed a debt of six thousand pounds on the colony. Bills of credit were
issued, for the payment of which a duty was laid on skins, liquors and furs.
This was the first paper money issued in Carolina.
In 1703, the Apalachian Indians, by their connection with the Spaniards,
becoming hostile, Governor Moore marched into the heart of their settle
ments and burnt their towns between the Altamaha and Savannah Rivers.
He captured several hundred of the enemy, reduced the remainder to sub
mission, and sold many prisoners for slaves.
In 1706, the Spaniards from Florida invaded Carolina. A fleet appeared
before Charleston, but the whole colony had made such preparation for
defense that the enemy were obliged to retire without doing much injury.
One of their ships, having ninety men on board, was captured by the Caro
linians.
The Yamasees, a powerful tribe inhabiting the southern border of South
Carolina, instigated, it is believed, by the Spaniards, formed a general con
spiracy of all the neighboring tribes to destroy the English settlements. Not
less than six or seven thousand warriors of the Congarees, Catawbas, Chero-
kees, Yamasees, and other tribes, were engaged in the plot. On the 15th of
April, 1715, at daybreak, the massacre began at Pocotaglio and the neigh
boring plantations. About ninety persons were killed. A captain of the
militia escaping to Port Royal alarmed the town, and a vessel happening to
to be in the harbor the inhabitants fled on board, and by sailing to Charles
ton escaped the massacre.
Charleston at this time could muster but twelve hundred men fit to bear
arms, but Governor Craven took vigorous measures, laying an embargo, pro
claiming martial law, and being authorized by the assembly to impress men,
stores and ammunition, he marched against the savages, and found their
main body at their great camp, called Sattcatchers. A severe and bloody
battle was now fought from behind trees and bushes, the Indians alternately
retreating and returning with double fury to the charge. The governor, un-
700 SOUTH CAROLINA.
dismayed, pressed closely upon them with his provincials, and drove them
beyond Savannah River. The Yamasees, after their expulsion, went directly
to the Spanish territories in Florida, where they were hospitably received.
In this war four hundred whites were killed, property to a great amount de
stroyed, and a large debt contracted. The proprietors, though earnestly solicited,
refused to grant any relief or pay any portion of the debt. The assembly deter
mined to remunerate the colony by disposing of land from which the Indians
were driven. The terms were so favorable that five hundred Irishmen came over
and planted themselves on the frontiers. The proprietors refusing to sanc
tion the proceedings of the assembly deprived these emigrants of their lands.
By this and other oppressive acts of the proprietors the people were much
exasperated, and longed for a change of rulers.
In 1719, Gov. Johnston having dissolved the assembly, the members im
mediately met as a convention, and elected Col. James Moore their governor.
Assisted by the council and supported by the people, he administered the
affairs of the colony in the name of the king. In 1720 the Carolina agent
procured a hearing from the lords of the regency and council in England,
who gave it as their opinion that the proprietors of that province had for
feited their charter. In conformity to this decision they appointed Gen.
Francis Nicholson provisional governor of the province, with a commission
from the king. Several years afterward seven of the proprietors sold to the
king their claim to the soil and rents, and assigned to him their right of ju
risdiction. The government now being administered by executive officers
appointed by the crown, and by assemblies chosen by the people and under
their control, the colony became prosperous. Many emigrants now came
from the northern colonies, and often large bodies of Protestants arrived from
Europe; in one year (1752) the number who came exceeded sixteen hun
dred.
During the revolutionary struggle South Carolina performed her share in
the contest, and encountered many and great sacrifices arising from her ex
posed situation. A military force for the defense of the colony against the
British was organized at a very early period of the war. In 1776 an attack
was made on Fort Moultrie, at the entrance of Charleston harbor, in which
the invaders were defeated ; but in 1780 the city itself was captured, after a
siege of six weeks by the enemy, who held possession until 1782. For three
years this state was the seat of war. Many bloody struggles took place, and
its territory was occupied by the enemy the greater part of the years 1780
and 1781.
The constitution of the United States was adopted by this state in conven
tion, in May, 1788, by a vote of 149 to 73. The first state constitution, be
ing the earliest in the Union, was formed in 1775, the present one in 1790.
';South Carolina has taken an active part in the affairs of the national gov
ernment, and has furnished some of the most distinguished statesmen, being
generally ably represented in the national councils. She has gone further
than any other state in the assertion and vindication of the rights of the sov
ereign states as opposed to the powers of the federal government.'' In 1827
the legislature passed resolutions against the protective tariff of the United
States as unconstitutional, and in 1830 an ordinance was enacted to declare
null and void an act of congress imposing duties, etc. In 1833 counter
proclamations of President Jackson and Governor Hayne, on the subject of
nullification, were issued.
South Carolina is bounded north by North Carolina, east by the Atlantic
SOUTH CAROLINA.
701
Ocean, and on the south-west and west by Georgia. Its average length is
about 200 miles, its breadth about 160, containing an area of about
30,000 square miles. It lies between 32° and 35° 10' N. lat., and between
78° 35' and 83° 30' W. long. The state presents a great variety of soil and
surface. Along the seaboard, and from thirty to sixty miles into the inte
rior, the face of the country is flat and unpromising, covered with exten
sive tracts of pine barren, swamp and savannah, comprising the most fertile
and the most sterile extremes of soil. This is called the low country, and
during the summer and autumn is very unhealthy. This section includes
the sea islands, which are celebrated for the growth of the finest kinds of
cotton, to which they impart their name, and the tide lands, which arc
equally celebrated for their valuable crops of rice, of which South Carolina
exports more than all the other states of the Union together.
Near the center of the state lies an arid and sterile region some fifty or
sixty miles in width, and reaching nearly through the state — a succession of
sand hills, containing, at intervals, spots of great fertility. Beyond this, by
an abrupt acclivity, commences the upper country, which consists of an ex
cellent table land, the soil of which is highly productive and under good cul
tivation. Still beyond the surface becomes mountainous, occasionally exhib
iting elevations of considerable hight. Table Mountain, the most lofty, is
about 4,000 feet above the sea level. The state is divided into twenty-nine
districts. In 1790 the total population was 249,073, slaves 107,094; in
1840, 594,398, slaves 317,038; in 1850, 668,507, slaves 384,984. In the
low country the blacks outnumber the whites in the proportion of more than
three to one ; in the central the whites are rather the most numerous, and in
the upper country the difference between the two races is nearly reversed
from that which exists in the lowland districts.
CHARLESTON, the commercial emporium of South Carolina, and the largest
city on the Atlantic coast south of Baltimore, is situated on a tongue of land
between Ashley and Cooper Rivers, which unite at this point and flow into
the Atlantic. It is 118 miles N. E. from Savannah, and 540 S. W. from
Washington. Population in 1790, 16,359; in 1840, 29,261; in 1850,
42,985, of whom 14,792 were slaves; this is exclusive of St. Phillip's par
ish, or the neck, which, however, is virtually a part of Charleston, and has
about 16,000 inhabitants. The harbor which is formed by the confluence
of Ashley and Cooper Rivers is about two miles wide, and extends upward
of six miles to the ocean. The passage to the city is well defended by sev
eral fortifications; on one side is Fort Moultrie, on Sullivan's Island, on the
other is Fort Johnson, on James Island. In front of the city is Castle Pinck-
ney, and in the sea, close upon the channel, Fort Suinpter.
Charleston is considered as more healthy than any other part of the low
country in the southern states, and is much resorted to by the planters during
the sickly months. The city is regularly built, and extends about two miles
in length and one and a half in breadth. The streets are for the most part
parallel with each other from the Cooper to the Ashley River, and are crossed
by others nearly at right angles. Many of the houses are of brick, some of
which are of superior elegance ; others are of wood, neatly painted white,
having piazzas, beautifully ornamented with vines, etc. Almost every spot
in the vicinity capable of improvement is occupied by plantations in a high
state of cultivation.
The growth of Charleston has been less rapid than most of the cities of the
United States. Its first settlement was in 1671. In its original condition it
702 SOUTH CAROLINA.
was low, intersected with numerous creeks and marshes, which time and in
dustry have almost entirely reclaimed.
The first Episcopal Church in Carolina was built in Charleston about
1681 or 1682. It was of black cypress, upon a brick foundation, at the
View in Broad-street, Charleston.
The annexed engraving shows the appearance of Broad-street as seen from a point several rods west from
where it is crossed by Meeting-street, and presents a partial view of several of the public buildings. The
fir*t building on the left is that of the "Hebrew Orphan Society, 1801;" the next is the Court House. The
City Hall appears beyond, between which and the Court House, Meeting-street passes. The Guard House ia
on the right. In the distance, at the east end of the street, is seen the Post-office and Custoin-House, a
structure built before the revolution. Col. Isaac Hayne,* a highly respected citizen and patriot, previous
to his execution, July, 1781, was confined in a room on the north-east corner of this building.
southeast corner of Broad and Meeting-streets. It was usually called the
"English Church" but the distinctive name was St. Philip. In 1710-11 an
act was passed for building a new church of brick. This was erected in
Church-street in 1723. The first minister of the church in Charleston was
the Rev. Atkin Williamson, who came here about 1680, and died in the col-
* After the capture of Charleston by Sir Henry Clinton, Col. Hayne, confiding in the
honor of the conquerors, was induced to leave his family and plantation, near Edisto, and
surrender himself a prisoner and take his parole, like many others. The British com
mandant at Charleston refused him this privilege, and tgld him he must take the oath of al
legiance as a British subject or submit to close confinement. His family being exposed to
the insults of marauders, and being advised by Dr. Ramsay, his friend, who was himself a
prisoner, he having been assured that he would not be compelled to bear arms for the king,
he took a British protection. In 1781, when Gen. Greene had swept the royal power from
almost every place it had subdued, Col. Hayne was summoned to repair with arms to the
British camp at Charleston j this he refused, and feeling himself released from his oath he
joined the American army. Being made prisoner, he was conveyed to Charleston, where,
without a trial, he was condemned by Col. Balfour and Lord Rawdon to be hung. The men
of the city pleaded for him, the women signed petitions, his children (for his wife was in hor
grave) knelt in supplication before his judges, but all in vain.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
703
ony at an advanced age. St. Michael's Church, by an act of the general as
sembly, was directed to be built "on or near the place where the old Church
of St. Philip formerly stood."
In 1704 the boundaries of the city did not extend farther west than Meet
ing-street, north than the present Market-street, and south than Water-street.
All this region was environed with fortifications. Charleston has frequently
Orphan Asylum, Charleston.
suffered by disastrous fires. In 1796 one-third of the city was destroyed by
fire, at a loss estimated at $2,500,000. In 1838, 1,200 houses were burned,
being one-fifth part of the city, covering 145 acres of ground, at a loss esti
mated at $5,000,000. Nevertheless, it has advanced in prosperity, and con
tains all those institutions which mark a thriving and wealthy commercial
city.
The charitable institutions in Charleston are numerous and efficient.
Among them the Orphan House, an old and noble charity institution, is con
spicuous. It has seldom less than 250 inmates, of both sexes, who are care
fully fed, clothed and educated. In the Tablet Hall, containing the names
of doners, at the front entrance of the Asylum, is the following inscription:
"The ordinance establishing an Orphan House in the city of Charleston for supporting
and educating poor orphan children, and those of poor, distressed and disabled parents,
was ratified in council October 18, 1790, Arnoldus Vanderhoof, intendant. On the 25th of
October the city council elected the following gentlemen commissioners of the Orphan
House, who met for the first time on the 28th, in a hired asylum in Church-street:
Charles Lining, Richard Cole, William Marshall,
John Mitchell, Arnoldus Vanderhoist, Thomas Jones,
John Robertson, Thomas Corbett, Samuel Beekman.
The corner-stone of this asylum was laid by his Honor, John Huger, intendant of the
city of Charleston, on the 12th day of November, 1792, and on the 18th of October, 1794,
the commissioners of the institution introduced into it one hundred and fifteen orphans, the
objects of the charity. The enlargement and improvement of the Orphan House was com
menced in 1853, and in October, 1855, 216 children introduced into it."
The statue of William Pitt, the British statesman, is now standing in front
of the Asylum, near the main entrance of the building. He is represented
in Roman costume. This statue at the revolutionary period stood in the
704
SOUTH CAROLINA
street where Meeting and Broad-streets cross each other. One of the arms
is wanting. This was broken off in the revolution by a shot from the ene
my's battery on James Island. The following inscription appears on the
pedestal on which the statue is placed :
In grateful memory of his services to his countrymen in general and to America in par
ticular, the Commons House of Assembly of South Carolina unanimously voted this statue
of the Bight Honorable William Pitt, Esq., who gloriously exerted himself in defending the
freedom of the Americans, the true sons of England, by promoting a repeal of the Stamp
Act, in the year 1766. Time shall sooner destroy the mark of their esteem than erase from
their minds their just sense of his patriotic virtues.
The engraving below shows a view of Charleston College. The building
on the left is the library. This institution was founded in 1785, chartered
anew in 1791. and again re-organized in 1837. The college has lately been
much improved; extensive additions have been made to the main building,
and another professorship established, entitled the chair of Intellectual Phil
osophy and Greek Literature. This college is in a prosperous condition, and
has an able faculty. Its museum, or collection of specimens in natural his
tory, is one of the best in the Union.
The Medical College of the State of South Carolina is a flourishing institu
tion, founded in 1833. The High School, established in 1839, is endowed
with $1,000 per annum for a hundred years. The city contains about thirty
churches, several of which are fine specimens of architecture; several hotels
of the first order, and nine banks having an aggregate capital of eleven mil
lions of dollars.
Charleston College,
During the year ending August, 1854, Charleston exported 24,761 bales
of sea-island cotton, 408,278 bales of upland cotton, 223,064 bushels of rough
rice, or "paddy," about as much cleared rice, and 23,844,650 feet of lumber.
Since the opening of the railroad communications with the west the city has
become the center of an important trade in flour.
"The citizens of Charleston are distinguished for their hospitality and re
finement, and perhaps no place in the United States affords more agreeable
society. In winter it is particularly pleasant as a residence, and is much re
sorted toby persons from other parts of the Union."
The city of Charleston from the beginning of the American revolution
entered with zeal into the support of the American cause. Being the largest
and most important place in the southern states, it was a great object with
SOUTH CAROLINA. 705
the British commanders to attempt its reduction. Fortunately an official
letter from England announcing the speedy departure of an expedition from
that country for this object had been intercepted early in the spring of 1776,
and time was thus given to place the city in a state of defense. The follow
ing account of the attack (June 28th) is from Holmes' Annals :
The execution of the plan which respected the southern colonies was committed
to General Clinton and Sir Peter Parker, who, having formed a junction at Cape
Fear, concluded to attempt the reduction of Charleston. For that place they ac
cordingly sailed, with 2,800 land forces, and crossing Charleston bar on the 4th of
June, anchored about three miles from Sullivan's Island. Every exertion had been
previously made to put the colony, and especially its capital, in a posture of de
fense. Works had been erected on Sullivan's Island, which lies about six miles
below Charleston toward the sea, and so near the channel as to be a convenient
post for annoying ships when approaching the town. The militia of the country
now repaired in groat numbers to Charleston, and at this critical juncture Major-
Gen eral Lee, who had been appointed by congress to the immediate command of
all the forces in the southern department, arrived with the regular troops of the
northern colonies. On the 28th of June Sir Peter Parker attacked the fort on
Sullivan's Island, with two 50 gun ships, four frigates of 28 guns, the Sphynx of
20 guns, the Friendship armed vessel of 22 guns, and the Ranger sloop and Thun
der bomb, each of 8 guns. On the fort were mounted 26 cannon, with which the
garrison, consisting of 375 regulars and a few militia, under the command of Col.
Moultrie, made a most gallant defense. The attack commenced between ten and
eleven in the morning, and was continued upward of ten hours. The flag-staff of
the fort being shot away very early in the action, Sergeant Jasper leaped down
upon the beach, took up the flag, and regardless of the incessant firing of the ship
ping, mounted and placed it on the rampart. Three of the ships advancing about
twelve o'clock to attack the western wing of the fort, became entangled with a
shoal, to which providential incident the preservation of the garrison is ascribed.
At half past nine the firing on both sides ceased, and soon after the ships slipped
their cables. In this action, the deliberate and well directed fire of the garrison
exceedingly shattered the ships, and the killed and wounded on board exceeded
200 men. The loss of the garrison was only 10 men killed and 22 wounded.
Though many thousand shot were fired from the shipping, yet the works were but
little damaged. The fort being built of palmetto, a tree indigenous to Carolina, of
a remarkably spongy nature, the shot which struck it were merely buried in the
wood, without shivering it. Hardly a hut or a tree on the island escaped. The
thanks of congress were given to Gen. Lee, and to Colonels Thomson and Moultrie,
for their good conduct on this memorable day ; and the fort, in compliment to the
commanding officer, was from that time called Fort Moultrie.
Gen. Prevost, after he abandoned Augusta, in Georgia, in April, 1779,
learning that Charleston, on the land side, was in a defenseless state, hoped
to be able to reduce it. Prevost having advanced about half way, happily
for the inhabitants of Charleston, halted two or three days, and in that in
terval they made every preparation for the defense of the city. All the
houses in the suburbs were burnt. Lines and abbatis were carried across
Ashley and Cooper Rivers; cannon were mounted, and in a few days a force
of three thousand three hundred men were assembled in Charleston for its
defense. On the 10th of May the British troops reached Ashley ferry, and
on the 12th the town was summoned to surrender on favorable terms. These
were rejected, and the British finding the inhabitants so well prepared against
an assault recrossed Ashley ferry.
The following account of the capture of Charleston by Sir Henry Clinton,
in 1780, is from Holmes' Annals:
No sooner did Sir Henry Clinton receive certain information of the departure of
Count D'Estaing from the American coast than he set forward an expedition against
706 SOUTH CAROLINA.
South Carolina. The troops designed for this service, consisting of 4 flank battal-
lions, 12 regiments, and a corps of British, Hessian and provincial, a powerful detach
ment of artillery, and 250 cavalry, escorted by Admiral Arbuthnot, arrived at T v-
bee, in Georgia, before the end of January. Sir Henry Clinton accompanied the
expedition, leaving the garrison at New York under the command of Lieutenant-
General Knyphausen. In a few days the transports with the army on board sailed
for North Edisto, and the troops, making good their landing about thirty miles
from Charleston, took possession of John's Island and Stono Ferry, and soon after
of James Island and Wappoo Cut. A bridge was thrown over the canal, and part
of the royal army took post on the banks of Ashley River, opposite to Charleston.
Governor Rutledge, to whom the assembly of the state had recently given extra
ordinary powers, ordered the militia to rendezvous, and issued a proclamation, re
quiring such of them as were regularly draughted, and all the inhabitants and
owners of property in the town, to join the garrison immediately, on pain of con
fiscation; but the late repulse at Savannah had produced such a dispiriting effect
that few complied with the order. The defenses of Charleston now consisted of a
chain of redoubts, lines and batteries, extending from Ashley to Cooper River, on
which were mounted upward of 80 pieces of cannon and mortars. In front of the
lines had been dug a canal, which was filled with water, and from the dam at each
end a swamp, filling the intervening spaces to each river, formed natural impedi
ments. Behind these two rows of abbatis, some other obstructions, and immedi
ately in front of the works a double picketed ditch. The works on the right and
left were very strong, and advanced so far beyond the range of the intermediate
line, as to enfilade the canal almost from one end to the other; and in the center
was a hornwork of masonry, which, being closed during the siege, formed a kind
of citadel. On all sides of the town where a landing was practicable batteries
were erected and covered with artillery; the works on Sullivan's Island had been
strengthened and enlarged, and Commodore Whipple with a squadron of 9 sail lay
just within the bar.
General Lincoln trusting to these defenses, and expecting large reinforcements,
remained in Charleston at the earnest request of the inhabitants, and with the
force under his command, amounting to 7,000 men of all denominations under
arms, resolved to defend the place. On the 21st of March the British marine
force, consisting of one ship of 50 guns, two of 40 guns, four of 32, and the Sand
wich armed ship, crossed the bar and anchored in Five Fathom Hole. Commo
dore Whipple, finding it impracticable to prevent the enemy from passing over the
bar, fell back to Fort Moultrie, and afterward to Charleston. The crews and guns
of all his vessels, excepting one, were put on shore to reinforce the batteries.
Some of his ships he stationed in Cooper River, and the rest, with some other ves
sels, were sunk across the mouth of it, to prevent the British fleet from entering.
On the 9th of April, Admiral Arbuthnot passed Fort Moultrie without stopping to
engage it. Colonel Pinckney, who commanded on Sullivan's Island with 300 men,
kept up a brisk and Avell directed fire on the ships in their passage; 27 seamen
were killed or wounded, and the ships in general sustained damage. As the fleet
was precluded from an entrance into Cooper River, it anchored near the re
mains of Fort Johnston, just without the range of shot from the batteries of the
town. The same day on which the fleet passed Fort Moultrie, the first parallel of
the besiegers was finished. The town being now almost invested by sea and land,
the British commanders summoned General Lincoln to surrender, but the general
with modest firmness replied: "Sixty days have passed since it has been known
that your intentions against this town were hostile, in which time has been
afforded to abandon it, but duty and inclination point to the propriety of support
ing it to the last extremity."
The batteries of the first parallel were now opened upon the town, and soon
made a visible impression, but the communication between the country and the
garrison was still kept open across Cooper River, through which General Lincoln
expected to receive his reinforcements, and, if it should become necessary, to make
good his retreat. To prevent the reception of those reinforcements, and to cut off
that retreat, Sir Henry Clinton detached Lieutenant-Colonel Webster with 1,400
men. By the advanced guard of this detachment, composed of Tarleton's legion
SOUTH CAROLINA. 797
and Ferguson's corps, the American cavalry, with the militia attached to them,
were surprised in the night of the 14th of April, at Biggin's Bridge, near Monk's
Corner, 32 miles from Charleston, and completely routed and dispersed. The British
now extended themselves to the eastward of Cooper River, and about this time Sir
Henry Clinton received a reinforcement of 3,000 men from New York. The
garrison having no reasonable hope of effecting a retreat, by advice of a council of
war, called on the 21st of April, an offer was made for surrendering the town on
certain conditions, but those conditions were instantly rejected by the British com
manders. The besiegers in the meantime were daily advancing their works, and
their third parallel was completed on the 6th of May. On the same day the
garrison of Fort Moultrie surrendered to Captain Hudson, of the royal navy, Col
onel Pinckney with 150 of the men under his command having been withdrawn
from that post to Charleston. On the same day, also, the broken remains of the
American cavalry under Colonel White were again surprised by Lieutenant-
Colonel Tarleton on the banks of the Santee, and the whole either killed, taken or
dispersed.
Sir Henry Clinton, while thus successful in every operation, began a correspond
ence with General Lincoln, and renewed his former offers to the garrison, in case
of their surrender; but the terms, so far as they respected the citizens, being not
satisfactory, the garrison recommenced hostilities. The British batteries of the
third parallel now opened on the town, and did great execution. Shells and car
cases were thrown into almost all parts of the town, and several houses were
burned. The Hessian yagers, posted advantageously, fired their rifles with such
effect that numbers of the besieged were killed at their guns, and scarcely any es
caped who showed themselves over the lines. During this fire, which continued
two days without intermission, the besiegers gained the counterscarp of the work
that flanked the canal, passed the canal itself, and advancing within twenty-five
yards of the American works, prepared to make a general assault by land and
water. The siege having been protracted until the llth, a great number of citi
zens of Charleston on that day addressed General Lincoln in a petition, requesting
his acceptance of the terms which had been offered. The general wrote to Sir
Henry Clinton, offering to accept those terms, and received a favorable answer. A
capitulation was signed on the 12th of May, and the next day Major-General Leslie
took possession of the town. The loss of the king's troops during the siege was 76
killed and 140 wounded. The loss of the Americans was 89 killed and 140
wounded. Upward of 400 pieces of artillery were surrendered.
The different churches in Charleston have each a graveyard attached to
their premises. The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in
the various yards. The annexed are from St. Philip's graveyard, back from
the circular Presbyterian Church. The gate of this yard is upward of one
hundred years old. These words are affixed to it: HODIE MIHI ERAS
TIBE — It opens to me to-day, for you to-morrow :
To the memory of Nicholas John Wightman, who was killed by a foot-pad on the night
of the 12th of March, 1788, aged 25 years, peaceably returning home to his brother's house,
where he resided. The villain met and made an attack to rob him, which he resisted, and
was shot dead on the spot. His brother, with a small assistance, the same night secured
the murderer and six accomplices, being the whole of a gang that then very much infested
the peace of the city, and by their frequent robberies and attempts to set fire to houses kept
the inhabitants in continual alarm, who were shortly after tried and, on the fullest con
viction, condemned and executed. DIVINE PROVIDENCE ordered it so that a single button
belonging to the coat of the murderer, found the next day, on the spot where the murder
was committed, by a child, the son of Mr. Edgar Wells, merchant, served with other proof
to discover and convict him. This marble is erected by an affectionate brother and sister
in memory of the virtues of their dear brother, who was beloved by all who knew him. He
was mild and affable in his manners. Just, generous and humane, ho loved with the sin-
cerest affection. His soul rests at the mercy seat of his Creator.
Ye that peruse his name who living shined,
Oh ! bear the merits of the dead in mind;
How skilled he was in each engaging art,
The mildest manners, with a generous heart —
45
708
SOUTH CAROLINA.
He was — but Heav'n how soon ordain'd his end
In death a hero as in life a friend.
Sacred to the memory of Maj. BENJAMIN HUGER, who fell before the lines at Charleston,
on the llth day of May, 1779, in the 32d year of his age. This memorial of her affection
was caused to be erected by his widow.
To the memory of ROBERT J. TURNBULL, the intrepid and successful asserter of
the rights of states, author of the Crisis, under the name of Brutus, the Address of
the Convention to the people of South Car
olina, and other able productions in sup
port of constitutional liberty. Born 14th
January, 1774, died 15th June, 1833. In
testimony of their gratitude for the wise,
persevering and beneficial exertion of great
talents in the service of his country, this
monument of public respect has been erect
ed by the friends of state rights and free
trade in South Carolina. •
On the south side — In the midst of his
usefulness, and in the hight of his fame, it
pleased the Almighty to call him from the
concerns of time to receive the reward of his
virtues in the enjoyment, we trust, of that
blessed immortality, the hope of which he
cherished through life, and in the faith of
which he died.
North side — In his character was exhib
ited a combination of all those moral and
intellectual endowments which constitute
the most enduring titles to distinction and
esteem — a capacious, vigorous and culti
vated understanding; a heart deeply im
bued with the spirit of liberty; a fortitude
equal to exigencies of any crisis. He was
beloved by the community among whom he
lived, endeared to his friends and enshrined
in the hearts of his family.
West side — The only record he asked of his country was that in the hour of trial
his might be "the post of difficulty and danger." "Do your duty to your country
and leave the consequences to God," ulf liberty is lost, all is lost," "If liberty is
saved, all is saved." These were the golden rules of his life.
John C. Calhoun, who for so long a period filled a prominent place in the
councils of the nation, died at Washington on Sunday, March 31, 1850, in
the 69th year of his age.
At the time of his death
he was a senator from
South Carolina. His
remains were deposited
in the congressional
vault previous to their
removal to Charleston.
His grave is in the cen
ter of the graveyard of
St. Philip's; opposite the
church, a simple brick
structure is built over
his remains, having only the name (in raised letters) CALHOUN on the
a**
MONUMENT OF ROBERT J. TURNBULL.
CALHOUN'S MONUMENT.
SOUTH CAROLINA. 709
marble cap-stone. This memorial was designed only as temporary, it being
the ultimate intention to erect a public monument becoming the reputation
of this distinguished statesman. There are a few evergreens about the tomb,
and a walk of shells. The brick is the hard red southern brick, and is ce
mented until the whole mass is solid as granite. Looking down upon the
graveyard from the spire of St. Philip's and you see a few live oak trees, and
the usual variety of gravestones — those of the last century slate and those of
this century marble. And those raised letters on the plain marble over Cal-
houn are singularly distinct. Gazing from the lofty spire upon the city, you
see one name, and that is in the graveyard below — CALHOUN. A beautiful
statue of Calhoun, of the finest Carrara marble, stands in the court-room.
The marble figure is leaning against the stump of a palmetto; one hand
holds aloft a scroll, while the other is pointing to the inscription upon it:
"Truth, Justice and the Constitution."
The following inscriptions are in and by St. Philip's Church :
Near this place lyes the body of his Excellency, ROBERT JOHNSON, Esq., his Majesty's
first captain, general, governor, commander-in-chief and vice-admiral of this province after
the purchase thereof from the lords proprietors, who dyed the 3d day of May, Anno que
Domini, 1735, aged 58 years, to whose memory the general assembly gave this marble, to
be erected as a mark of peculiar esteem and gratitude for his mild, just and generous ad
ministration.
In the Vestibule. — Sacred to the memory of Major-General MOULTRIE, who by his intre
pidity and good conduct on the 28th of June, 1776, gained with his regiment the first com
plete victory achieved by America over the forces of Britain, preserving Charleston from
capture, giving codfidence to the Union, and showing that the boasted navy of England
was no longer invincible ; who in 1778 saved Beaufort from captivity by gallantly display
ing his faithful band of militia in the open field, discomfiting an equal number of British
regulars, and proving the superiority of patriotic valor well directed over the sheltered dis
cipline of despots; who in 1779, by his activity and firmness, again rescued his native city,
assailed by a formidable British army — thus thrice meriting the mural crown ; and who,
though captured and distressed, rejected with disdain the splendid bribe of rank and emol
ument in the enemy's army, demonstrated that a reverse of fortune could only add fresh
lustre to his laurels. Though daring in action and inflexible in patriotic principles, he was
in society mild, benevolent and unassuming. No domestic character was more beloved, no
friend more cherished. The CINCINNATI of South Carolina have dedicated this second mon
ument of their affection and gratitude to their beloved first president. He died 27th Sept.,
1805, in the 76th year of his age — the first being destroyed in the conflagration of St. Phil
ip's Church, in 1835.
Beneath this stone are deposited the remains of his Excellency EDWARD RUTLEDGE, Esq.,
late governor of this state, whom it pleased the Almighty to take from this life Jan. 23,
1800, at the age of fifty years and two months. The virtues of this eminent citizen require
not the aid of inscription here to recall them to our recollection; it is believed they are en
graven on the hearts, and will long live in the remembrance of his countrymen.
The Rev. Mr. JOHN LAMBERT, late master, preceptor and teacher of grammar, and other
arts and sciences taught in the free school, Charleston, for ye province of South Carolina,
and afternoon LECTURER of this parish of St. Philip's, Charleston. Departed this life (sud
denly) on ye 14th of August, A. D., 1729. Blessed is that servant whom his Lord, when he
cometh, shall find so doing. Therefore be ye also ready — Matt., ch. 24.
<fLo he bringeth them to their desired haven."
EDWARD R. SHUBRICK, captain in the U. S. Navy,- died at sea 12th March 1844, aged 51
years. Erected by the officers, seamen and marines of the U. S. frigate Columbia, in mem
ory of their late beloved commander, A. D. 1846.
In memory of Col. Tno. SHUBRICK, a distinguished patriot soldier — a gentleman eminent
for his virtues as a husband, a father and friend. He was born in Charleston, S. C., Dec.
27, 1755, and died March 4, 1810.
710 SOUTH CAROLINA.
The following inscription to the memory of Bishop Dehon is within the
walls of St. Michael's; the others are found in the yard attached to the
church :
Sacred to the memory of the Right Rev. THEODORE DEHOX, D. D., late rector of the church
and bishop of the diocese, who ceased to be mortal on the 6th day of August, 1817, in the
41st year of his life and 20th of his ministry. Genius, learning and eloquence, added to a
character formed by Christian principles and a constant study of the Christian's model;
meek, he was swift to hear, slow to speak, slow to wrath ; humble, he esteemed others better
than himself; merciful, he sought out the poor and afflicted; devoted to God, he counted
not his life dear unto himself, so that he might finish his course with joy, and the ministry
which he received of the Lord Jesus to testify the gospel of the grace of God ; and fortified
by discretion, and firmness by moderation . . . united with urbanity and goodness, with
cheerfulness, rendered him the delight of his friends, the admiration of his country, the
glory and hope of the church ; his death was considered a public calamity. The pious la
mented him as a primitive bishop, the clergy as a father, and youth lingered at his grave.
He was buried under the church, by the directions of the vestry, and who also caused this
monument to be erected in testimony of their affection and his merit. Quis derideno sit
pudor, aut modus tarn chari capitis 1
This stone is erected by the vestry of St. Michael's Church, in memory of the Rev. FRED
ERICK DALCHO, D. D., who having served this church as an assistant minister for 17 years,
died on the 24th of November, A. D. 1835, in the 67th year of his age, and was buried near
this place. Fidelity, industry and prudence were the characteristics of his ministry. He
loved the church, delighted to the last in its service, and found in death the solace and sup
port of the faith which, with an exemplary constancy, he had preached. Steadfast and uni
form in his own peculiar convictions and action as a member and minister of the P. E.
Church, he lived and died "in perfect charity with all men."
Col. LEWIS MORRIS. He served in the war of '76, the time that tried men's souls. He
was aid to Gen. Greene, and was at the battles of Eutaw and Guilford. His good name is
the best inheritance left to his family. He died at Morrisiana, N. Y., 22d Nov., 1824. His
wife Ann was a communicant of this church ; her slaves and the poor can tell they have lost
their best friend. She died at Morrisiana, N. Y., April 29th, 1848, aged 86. Capt. W.
Morris, aid to Gen. F. Pinckney, died at Sullivan's Island, S. C., Sept. 7, 1828, aged 40
years.
Go my friend with thy hundred virtues to the home of thy fathers ; go with thy noble
soul to the bosom of thy God. Brave and generous spirit, fare thee well 1 A. H. Erected
by the daughters of Col. Morris.
Sacred to the memory of the Rev. PHILANDER CHASE, Jr., who departed this life in the city
of Charleston, S. C., on the first day of March, A. D. 1824, M. 24. The sermon preached
at his funeral by his friend, the Rev. Edward Rutledge, was reprinted in England, and in
strumental in turning many to righteousness. "Some glorify God by their lives, he by hig
death." His father, once of Ohio, now the Bishop of Illinois, visiting this city in Feb.,
1840, caused this stone to be erected in testimony of his never-dying love to his deceased
son, and of his gratitude to all who by their Christian hospitality and kindness alleviated
his sufferings, and by their sympathy and prayers smoothed his dying pillow.
Beneath this marble, the too-perishable monument of a widow's love, are deposited the
bones and ashes of ROBERT Y. HAYNE. No sculptured stone is needed to perpetuate the
memory of this illustrious name. The archives of this country are ennobled by his honors,
and his public services are stamped for immortality upon the face of his native state, and
upon the institutions of the Union. It is the smitten heart that would relieve its anguish
by this record of his rare virtues, his real nobleness, his incomparable excellence. That
heart alone can know how far the wisdom of the statesman, the eloquence of the senator,
and the courage of the hero, were transcended by those sublime qualities which made him
the idol of his wife, the pattern of his children, the guide of his friends the honest and in
corruptible patriot. The wisdom that counseled nations ruled his house; the tongue which
swayed the people charmed his fireside ; the heart which nerved a state allured his house
hold. His widow and children could find no consolation in his loss save in the humble hope
that they have given him up to that God who is the fatherless. Born in St. Paul's parish,
S. Carolina, Nov. 10, 1791 ; died at Ashville, N. Carolina, Sept. 24, 1839, ^Itat 47 years 10
months.
The following inscriptions are all on one monument in the Bethel Metho
dist Episcopal churchyard :
SOUTH CAROLINA.
Erected by the members of the Methodist Episcopal Church in Charleston, S. C., as a token
of the affectionate remembrance of the preachers who having labored diligently in the vine
yard of the Lord, and been instrumental in bringing many from darkness to light, and
from the power of Satan unto God, at length, in sure and certain hope of a glorious immor
tality, "their bodies with their charge lay down, and cease at once to work and live."
The righteous shall be had in everlasting remembrance.
WILLIAM WATERS, a native of Maryland, and one of the first Methodists in America. He
joined the church in 1771, entered upon the work of the ministry in 1772, and died in the
full triumphs of faith August 10, 1804, aged 65.
Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord.
JAMES KING, a native of Virginia, who gave his life, his labors and his fortune to the
Church of Christ, and died in peace September 18, 1797, aged 25.
AMOS PlLSBUKY, a native of Massachusetts ; he served the church as a local preacher during
the last two years of his life with much acceptability, and died in full assurance of a blessed
immortality Oct. 20, 1812, aged 40.
The best of all, God is with tw.
JOHN N. JONES, born in Virginia; entered the traveling connexion in 1790, and departed
this life July 16, 1798. Full of Faith and the Holy Ghost.
They rest from their labors, and their toorks do follow them.
HENRY T. FITZGERALD, born in North Carolina; dedicated himself to the service of the
church in the morning of life, and left the world rejoicing in the hope of the glory of God
Sept. 19, 1810, aged 22.
The two following inscriptions are within the Congregational or Inde
pendent Church :
To the grateful memory of Mr. EGBERT TRADD (son of Mr. Richard and Elizabeth Tradd),
the first male child born in this town. He was agreeable in person, of a noble mind, just
in his dealings, sincere in friendship, devout in public and constant in the private duties of
religion and catholic in his charity ; who discharged several public trusts with honor, and
died the 30th day of March, 1731, in the 52d year of his age, and is interred in the body of
this church ; to support the ministry thereof he bequeathed ye annual profits of one thous
and pounds forever, besides a considerable legacy to the poor of the province. Exemplum
Christ i ne Pigeatq. sequi.
By this church this monument is consecrated to the memory of JOSEPH SMITH, Esq., her
eldest deacon and her treasurer, who with fidelity, munificence and exemplary piety having
executpd these offices for half a century, peacefully fell asleep in Jesus on the 12th of Feb
ruary, 1826, in his 95th year. In the life of this patriarch shone with steady light what
ever exemplifies and adorns the Christian character. His principles of religion were fixed
and steady, but unostentatious, tempered with liberality. He was meek in conduct, con
ciliating in manners, industrious in business, conscientious in his dealings, charitable to
the poor, and in what concerned his country firm and patriotic. Of this church he was a
zealous and beneficent patron, dedicating through a long life his counsels, his labors and
bright example to its spiritual growth and secular prosperity. To the cause of American
independence he early devoted himself and all that was dear to him, and though severely
tried by captivity, imprisonment and persecuting exile at St. Augustine, his confidence in
his God and invincible constancy to his country triumphed over them all. For instruction
and example to posterity, and to honor the memory of a man so worthy, this monument is
dedicated.
The two following inscriptions are from monuments in the graveyard at
tached to the Huguenot or French Protestant Church; the last is from that
of the Catholic Church:
Here rest the remains of JONAH HORRY, who departed this life on the llth of August,
1812, in the 66th year of his age. "The memory of the just is blessed." Near this spot
was interred the body of ELIAS HORRY, grandfather of Jonah Horry. He was one of the
French Protestants who came to South Carolina about the year 1690, and settled in Charles
ton in Sept., 1736, aged about 72 years.
712
SOUTH CAROLINA.
This tablet is dedicated to the memory of Mr. STEPHEN THOMAS, born in the village of
Eyme, Department La Dordogne, France, the 17th of August, 1750, 0. S. ; died 17th June,
1839. To enjoy liberty of conscience, he fled with an elder sister to London, to join the
Rev. Mr. Gibert, who with his congregation had also been compelled to seek an asylum
from persecution which they endured in their native land. He arrived in this city with his
congregation, consisting of about 140 Protestant exiles, on the 12th of April, 1764, where he
settled, while most of the congregation settled, located with their pastor, in Abbeville
district, in this state. He was a patriot of the revolution. For many years he was a mem
ber in this (French Protestant) Church. The destruction of the church edifice in the great
fire of 1796, the subsequent death of their pastor, the Rev. Mr. Bouedillion, caused a dis
persion of the flock among other churches in the city. When the Second Presbyterian
Church was established he was one of its first ruling elders, an office he retained through
life, the strong feelings and rigid principles for which the original Huguenots were distin
guished. Twice he sacrificed all, once when a youth for the religion of his fathers, and
again when in manhood for the liberty of his adopted country. The memory of the just ia
blessed.
Underneath lie interred the bodies of Dlle Amelie Maxime Rosalie De Grasse, deceased
on the 23d day of August, 1799, and of Dlle Milanie Veronique Maxime De Grasse, de
ceased on the 19th day of September, 1799, daughters to the late Francois Joseph Paul
Count de Grasse, Marquis De Tilly, of the former Counts of Provence and Sovereign Princes
of Antebes, Lieutenant-General of the naval armies of his MOST CHRISTIAN MAJESTY, com
mander of the Royal Order of St. Louis, a member of the Military Society of Cincinnati.
COLUMBIA, the capital of South Carolina, is situated on the east side of the
Congaree River, immediately below the confluence of the Broad and Saluda
Rivers, which unite to form the Congaree. The city is situated upon an el
evated plain, 200 feet above the bed of the river, in a situation commanding
Eastern View of the Capitol at Columbia.
and beautiful. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing each other at
right angles, 100 or 150 feet in width, and many of them ornamented with
trees. Distance 120 miles N. N. W. from Charleston, 73 from Augusta, Ga.,
and 500 from Washington. Population in 1850, 6,060; in 1853, 7,054.
The annexed engraving shows the appearance of the capitol of South Car
olina, a plain structure, the upper story of which is of wood. The following
inscription is on one of the foundation stones of the building: Ut. Rosa.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
713
Flos. Florum Sic Domus est Domorum in Gubernatore austrwlis Carolince, A.
J).y 1788. Immediately in front of the building is a specimen of iron casting,
by Mr. Werner, of Charleston, cast in that place in 1853. It is emblematic
of South Carolina, as is seen in the striking figure of the palmetto, which
rises above the other parts of the casting. A new structure for the capitol
is now erecting of granite, which is found within two or three miles of this
place. This building will be one of the most splendid and imposing in its
appearance in the United States.
The first settlements of the whites in Richland district, of which Columbia
is the seat of justice, were made in 1740. Its territory was once in the
occuption of the Cherokee Indians. Its name, Rich-land, is supposed to
have been sriven in compliment to its rich soils — the highland swamps which
border its rivers. Columbia was incorporated in 1787. The legislature first
met here in 1790.
Western View of South Carolina College.
The above is a representation of the South Carolina College buildings.
They are situated on two sides of a square, facing each other. The presi
dent's house is seen in the distance at the head of the avenue which passes
through the central part of the college yard. The monument of President
Maxcy, on which is a long Latin inscription to his memory, stands in the
avenue a little distance in front of the president's house. The library, having
pillars in front, is seen on the left; the new chapel building in the distance
on the right. The college premises cover altogether about twenty-five acres
of ground, and are inclosed by a wall of brick. This institution was estab
lished by the legislature in 1801, and in 1804 went into operation. Being
under the patronage of the legislature, it is amply furnished with all the
necessary means and apparatus for carrying on with certainty and success
the processes of a scientific education. It has seven or eight professors, and
a library of 17,000 volumes. By an act of the legislature passed in 1825,
the board of trustees consists of the governor of the state, the president of
the senate, the speaker of the house of representatives, the judges of the
court of appeals, the. circuit judges of the courts of law, and the chancellors.
714 SOUTH CAROLINA.
cx-officio, and twenty persons to be elected by the joint ballot of the senate
and house of representatives, to continue in office four years.
The Insane Asylum in this place is richly endowed, and well conducted
under the patronage of the state; the building is one of the most splendid
in the city. There are several academies, and a theological seminary, founded
in 1831, under the patronage of the Presbyterians.
The following inscriptions are copied from marble tablets affixed to the
walls inside of the Methodist Church, the corner-stone of which was laid by
Bishop Capers:
This monument is erected by the congregation of this church to the memory of the Rev.
WILLIAM CAPERS, D. D., one of the bishops of the Methodist Episcopal Church south, who
was born in St. Thomas' Parish, So. Ca., January 26, 1790, and died near Anderson, C. H.,
So. Ca., Jan. 29, 1855, having served his own generation, by the will of God, in the Christian
ministry forty-six years. His mortal remains repose near this church, the corner-stone of
which he laid during his ministry in this town in 1831. He was the founder of the missions
to the slaves on the plantations of the southern states. To his shining abilities, which ren
dered him universally popular as a preacher, he united great simplicity and purity of char
acter. The righteous shall be had in everlasting remembrance.
Sacred to the memory of the Rev. WILLIAM MEGEE KENNEDY, who was born in N. C., Jan.
10, 1783, and died Feb. 22, 1840. He was for 34 years a member of the S. Ca. conference.
A faithful and distinguished minister of the Lord Jesus. He was the instrument of turning
many to righteousness, while the eminent Christian virtues of his character endeared him
to a wide circle of admiring friends. His remains repose near this church, in connection
with which many years of his active life were spent. This marble is a memento of the
affection on the part of his brethren of the S. Ca. conference.
In memory of the Rev. SAMUEL DUNTTODY, a native of Pennsylvania, but for 48 years a la
borious, useful and able minister of the So. Ca. conference. He died July 9, 1854, in the
74th year of his age. His mortal part rests in hope near Cokesburg. This tablet is erected
by the conference as an humble tribute to the memory of one who served his generation
faithfully and finished his course with joy. But his witness is in heaven and his record is
or. high.
The following are from monuments in the Presbyterian church-yard :
In memory of WILLIAM LAW, born in the county of Antrim, Ireland, April 16, 1779;
united with the Presbyterian Church in the year 1813; settled in Columbia, S. C., Novem
ber, 1818; ordained a ruling elder July 9,1820, and fell asleep in Jesus, Feb. 28, 1852, aged
72 years, 10 months and 12 days ; 21 years treasurer of the Theological Seminary, and 32
years a ruler in the cause of God. He was faithful to great public trusts, a sound judgment
and a firm purpose. Patient labor and prudent counsels crowned his life with honor and
success, and made the world a loser by his death. A man of faith and noiseless devotion.
Pure in spirit, artless in temper, reserved in speech, yet truthful and honest. Tender to
others, neglectful of self, kind to the poor, in charity fervent. He lived without guile and
died without fear. The friend of mankind at peace with God.
Beneath are the remains of JAMES DAVIS. For many years an eminent physician. He
was a man of genius and learning, and would have been distinguished in any intellectual
pursuit to which he had directed his attention. Devoted to his profession, he brought to
its practice a rare combination of all the qualities requisite to success. Science, sagacity,
energy and enthusiasm, and all its charities, were performed by him. He was the earliest,
the most zealous and most efficient contributor to the institution and success of the Lunatic
Asylum. He died as he had lived, confiding in the promises of religion. Born 8th Decem
ber, 1775, died 4th of August, 1838.
FRANKLIN HARPER ELMORE, born at Laurens, S. C., Oct. 15th, Anno Domini, 1799; died
at Washington City, D. C., May 28th, Anno Domini, 1850. "Behold an Israelite indeed in
whom there is no guile." As a member of the bar, state solicitor, representative in congress,
president of the bank of the state, senator in the place of Calhoun, the tribute to his intel
lect is the record of his beloved Carolina. He left for posterity the name of a great states
man ; for liis family the higher honor of a reputation unspotted by all the trials of a public
life. Brilliant as were his talents, they were outshone by his virtues. The admiration his
genius commanded, was surpassed by the affection his heart inspired. His associates es-
SOUTH CAROLINA.
715
teemed, his friends loved, his family reverenced him. His memory is embalmed as the model
of all the amiable affections which spring from a heart that never did nor wished evil to
any one.
Sacred to the memory of the Hon. HENRY WM. DE SAUSSURE, for 29 years one of the
chancellors of South Carolina, and 25 years presiding judge of the court of appeals. A
youthful soldier of the revolution, director of the mint of the United States by the appoint
ment of Washington. He served in the convention which formed the constitution of the
state ; was for many years an efficient member of the legislative counsels, and was distin
guished for his untiring zeal for education and learning. His eminence as a jurist, his
faithful devotion to duty as a magistrate, are recorded in the archives of his country, and
have won for him the respect and gratitude of its citizens. His children, in reverence for
his virtues, his paternal kindness and exemplary piety, consecrate to his memory this mon
ument. He was born in Prince William Parish, Beaufort District, on the 16th of Aug.,
1763, and died in Charleston on the 27th of March, 1839.
North-eastern Vieiv of the Congaree Bridge.
The approach to the city of Columbia from the south-west is effected by a
massive bridge over the Congaree, of which the above is a representation ; the
piers and abutments are of solid granite in large blocks, raised twenty-eight
feet above the river. The river is one thousand three hundred feet wide ; its
bed is a solid rock, and the carriage way to the bridge is upward of 1,300
feet long. The city is one mile distant from the bridge, between which is
the railroad depot, the terminus of several railroads in this section of the state.
On the extreme right is seen a portion of the canal, over which a small bridge
is thrown. This canal, three or four miles in extent, was constructed to
avoid the great falls of the Congaree, which formerly obstructed the com
mercial interests of the city; it is not now in use. Before the construction
of railroads this bridge was a crossing place of much importance to travelers.
Over the entrance, on the Columbia side of the river, is placed the fol
lowing :
•To the memory of William Briggs, who planned and executed the Columbia and Saluda
bridges, this monument is erected by the Bridge Company, 1828.
Camden is a flourishing town on the eastern bank of the Wateree, on
a plain about a mile from the river, at an elevation above it of about one hun
dred feet, 33 miles N. E. from Columbia and 142 N. by N. W. from Charles
ton, with which it is connected by railroad. The river is navigable to this
place for boats of sixty or seventy tuns. The soil of the surrounding eountryjs
fertile, but liable to be overflowed. Cotton and corn are produced in
716 SOUTH CAROLINA.
abundance. The place is well built; some of the churches, of which there
are four or five, are elegant. Its trade is considerable. The De Kalb mills
and a cotton factory are in its suburbs.
Camden is the oldest inland town in the state, having been settled in 1750.
It was laid out into squares in 1760, chartered in 1769, and had a regular
police and was thriving before the revolution. That event for a time
destroyed its prosperity. It fell into the hands of the British, was made a
fortification, and destroyed by them when they were compelled to abandon
it. Camden is celebrated in revolutionary history as the scene of two im
portant battles — that between General Gates and Lord Cornwallis, in 1780,
in which Gates was defeated with great loss, known as the battle of Camden,
and that between General Greene and Lord Rawdon, called the battle of
HobkirWs Hill, fought in April of the succeeding year, in which the Ameri
cans met with a reverse, although their loss in killed was but 18 men.
In 1825 General Lafayette laid the corner-stone of the monument to the
memory of Baron De Kalb. It is situated upon the green in front of the
Presbyterian Church, on DeKalb-street. It is of marble, having a large
granite base, the whole being about fifteen feet in hight. The following in
scription i§ on its sides :
Here lie the remains of BARON DE KALB, a German by birth; but in principle a citizen of
the world. In gratitude for his zeal and services, the citizens of Camden have erected this
monument. His love of liberty induced him to leave the Old World to aid the citizens of
the New in their struggle for INDEPENDENCE. His distinguished talents and many virtues
weighed with Congress to appoint him MAJOR GENERAL in their revolutionary army. He
was second in command in the battle fought near CAMDEN, on the 16th of August, 1780, be
tween the British and Americans, and there nobly fell covered with wounds while gallantly
performing deeds of valor in rallying the friends and opposing the enemies of his adopted
country.
After the capture of Charleston dispositions were made by the enemy to
secure obedience in the interior country. For this purpose a considerable force
was sent to Camden, where the British commander, Lord Rawdon, had collected
stores and took up his quarters. To avoid being treated as enemies, the greater
part of the inhabitants either gave their parole as prisoners or took the oath of
allegiance to the king. Sir Henry Clinton afterward discharged those who
had given their parole as prisoners, and then called upon all to embody as
militia in the British service. Indignant at such conduct, which left them
the only alternative of fighting for or against their country, great numbers
again took up arms for the cause of liberty.
One party of patriots who had taken refuge in North Carolina chose Col.
Sumpter, of South Carolina, as their leader. At the head of these he soon
returned to his own state, attacked and defeated several scattered detach
ments of the enemy, and thus reanimated the drooping spirits of his country
men. This spirit was cherished by the approach of a northern army under
Gen. Gates, who had been sent to replace Gen. Lincoln in the chief command.
Several corps of continental troops and militia having formed a junction
were now conducted by Major-General Baron De Kalb into South Carolina.
The account below of the action which soon ensued is from Holmes' Annals :
BATTLE OF CAMDEN.
Lord Cornwallis hearing that Gen. Gates was approaching Camden, hastened to
this place to reinforce Lord Rawdon. Gen. Gates, after a tedious march through
a country of pine barrens, sand-hills and swamps, reached Clermont, thirteen miles
from Camden. Here he was joined by Gen. Stephens with a large body of Virginia
militia. The American army now amounted to 3,663, but of this number 900 only
SOUTH CAROLINA. 717
were continental infantry, and 70 cavalry. The British force under Cornwallis
consisted of 1,700 infantry and 300 cavalry. On the night of Aug. 15th he ad
vanced with his army to attack the Americans in their camp at Clermont. They
at the same hour began to move toward Camden. The advanced parties met in the
night and engaged. The British being successful in several skirmishes, it had a dis
astrous eifect on the spirits of the militia.
On the morning of the 16th of August, 1780, the enemy advanced to the attack.
At the first onset the militia fled from the field. The regular American troops,
though left alone, maintained the conflict with great bravery against superior num
bers, and for a short time had the advantage, but they were finally overpowered,
and the flight became general. Baron De Kalb, while exerting himself with great
bravery at the head of a regiment to prevent the loss of the battle, received eleven
wounds, and soon after expired. In this engagement the British lost 500 men in
killed and wounded. The loss of the Americans could not be ascertained, as no
returns of militia were made after the action. British authors state the loss about
2,000, while the American make it but seven or eight hundred. They, however,
lost their artillery wagons and 2,000 stands of arms.
The fugitives were pursued by Tarleton's legion with relentless fury. When all
were killed, captured or dispersed, he took the route toward Col. Sumpter's camp.
This officer, on hearing of the defeat of Gates, retreated to the Catawba ford. Sup
posing he was beyond danger, he halted that his troops might repose. His senti
nels slept at their posts, and Tarleton's legion rode into the American camp before
preparations could be made for defense. Between three aud four hundred were
killed or wounded, and the remainder dispersed in the woods, and the three hun
dred prisoners he had taken were released. Gen. Gates, after the action at Cam-
den, retreated to Charlotte, and from thence to Hillsborough, in North Carolina,
with the remnant of his forces.
Cornwallis, after the victory at Camden, again supposing the state to be
subdued, adopted severe measures to repress all opposition to the royal cause.
He directed that all who once having submitted, had given aid to the Ameri
can troops, should have their property confiscated and imprisoned ; and that
all who had once borne arms with the British, and afterward joined the
Americans, should suffer death. Several persons were executed in conse
quence of these orders, and many were reduced to poverty and distress.
The slaves on the plantations, in these times of confusion and distress in the
country, instead of aiding in its defense, by a variety of means, threw their
little influence into the opposite scale.
BUFORD'S DEFEAT.
The defeat of Buford occurred the May previous to the battle of Camden.
This event took place on Waxhaw Creek, near the North Carolina line,
about 45 miles northerly from Camden. The narrative of this event is from
Lossing's Field Book.
The regiment of Col. Abraham Buford was massacred by Tarleton on the 29th of May,
1780. Sir Henry Clinton took possession of Charleston on the 12th, and immediately com
menced measures for securing the homage of the whole state. He sent out three large de
tachments of his army. The first and largest, under Cornwallis, was ordered toward the
frontiers of North Carolina ; the second, under Lieut. Col. Cruger, was directed to pass
the Saluda, to Ninety-Six ; and the third, 'under Lieut. Col. Brown, was ordered up the Sa
vannah, to Augusta. Soon after he had passed the Santee, Cornwallis was informed that
parties of Americans who had come into South Carolina, and had hurried toward Charles
ton to assist Lincoln, were as hastily retreating. Among these was Col. Buford. His
force consisted of nearly 400 continental infantry, a small detachment of Washington's
cavalry, and two field pieces. He had evacuated Camden, and, in fancied security, was re
treating leisurely toward Charlotte, in North Carolina. Cornwallis resolved to strike Bu-
718
SOUTH CAROLINA.
ford, if possible, and, for that purpose, he dispatched Tarleton, with 700 men, consisting
of cavalry and mounted infantry. That officer marched 105 miles in 54 hours, and came
up with Buford on the Waxhaw. Impatient of delay, he had left his mounted infantry
behind, and with only his cavalry, he almost surrounded Buford before that officer was
aware of danger. Tarleton demanded an immediate surrender upon the terms granted to
the Americans at Charleston. Those terms were humiliating, and Buford refused com
pliance. While the flags for conference were passing and repassing, Tarleton, contrary to
military rules, was making preparations for an assault, and the instant he received *Bu-
ford's reply, his cavalry made a furious charge upon the American ranks. Having re
ceived no orders to defend themselves, and supposing the negotiations were yet pending,
the continentals were utterly dismayed by this charge. All was confusion, and while some
fired upon their assailants, others threw down their arms and begged for quarter. None
was given ; and men without arms were hewn in pieces by Tarleton's cavalry ; 113 were
slain; 150 were so maimed as to be unable to travel ; and 53 were made prisoners, to
grace the triumphal entry of the conqueror into Camden. Only five of the British killed,
and 15 wounded. The whole of Buford's artillery, ammunition, and baggage, fell into the
hands of the enemy. For this savage feat, Cornwallis eulogized Tarleton, and commended
him to the ministry as worthy of special favor. It was nothing less than a cold-blooded
massacre ; and Tarleton's quarter became proverbial as a synonym to cruelty. The liberal
press, and all right-minded men in England, cried shame !
Map of the Seat of War in the South.
After the battle, a large number of the wounded were taken to the log meeting-house of
the Waxhaw Presbyterian congregation, where they were tenderly nursed by a few who
had the boldness to remain. With the defeat of Buford, every semblance of a continental
army in South Carolina was effaced. This terrible blow spread consternation over that
region, and women and children were seen flying from their homes to seek refuge from
British cruelty in more distant settlements. Among the fugitives was the widowed mother
of Andrew Jackson, the seventh president of the United States, who, with her two sons,
Robert and Andrew, took refuge in the Sugar Creek congregation, at the house of the widow
of the Rev. J. M. Wilson, near Charlotte. This was the first practical lesson of hatred to
SOUTH CAROLINA.
719
yrauny which young Jackson learned, and it doubtless had an abiding influence upon his
iiture life."*
BATTLE GROUND AT COWPENS.
BATTLE OF COWPENS.
The successes of the British upon the capture of Savannah and Charleston
sncouraged them to invade North Carolina. Gen. Gates, after his defeat,
rendezvoused at Hillsboro; and to
ward the end of the year 1780 ad
vanced to Charlotte town. At this
place he transferred his command to
Gen. Greene, whom congress had
sent to take charge of the southern
army. His whole force consisted of
about 2>000 men, of whom more
than half were militia. Nearly one-
half of these he sent under Gen.
Morgan into the western section of
South Carolina, where a British
party, aided by the tories, were
plundering and ravaging the country
without restraint. When Morgan had entered into the district of Ninety -
Six, Lord Cornwallis dispatched Lieut. Col. Tarleton with about 1,100 men,
to drive him from this station and "push him to the utmost." Morgan began
a retreat, but being soon convinced that he could not escape he determined to
hazard a battle, at a place called Cowpens, near Paco-
let River. Tarleton had two field pieces and a supe
riority pf infantry, in the proportion of five to four,
and of cavalry of three to one. The account of this
conflict, Jan. 17, 1781, is from Holmes' Annals :
"Gen. Morgan had drawn up his men in two lines.
The front line was composed entirely of militia, placed
under the command of Col. Pickens, and was advanced
a few yards before the second, with orders to form on the
right of the second when forced to retire. Maj. M'Dow-
ell, with a battalion of the North Carolina volunteers, and
Maj. Cunningham, with a battalion of Georgia volun
teers, were advanced about 1 50 yards in front of this
line. The second line consisted of the light infantry
and a corps of Virginia riflemen. The cavalry, under
Lieut. Col. Washington, were drawn up at some distance
in the rear of the whole. The British, led to the attack
by Tarleton himself, advanced with a shout, and poured
in an incessant fire of musketry. The militia, though
they received the charge with firmness, were soon com
pelled to fall back into the rear of the second line ;
and this line, in its turn, after an obstinate conflict, was
compelled to retreat to the cavalry.
At this juncture, Lieutenant-Colonel Washington made
a successful charge on Captain Ogilvie, who, with
about forty dragoons, was cutting down the retrenting militia; Lieutenant-
Colonel Howard then, almost at the same moment, rallied the continental
# "The massacre of Buford's regiment fired the patriotism of young Andrew Jackson, and
at the age of 13 he entered the army, with his brother Robert, under Sumpter. They were
both made prisoners, but even while in the power of the British the indomitable courage of
the after man appeared in the boy."
MONUMENT AT COWPENS.
720
SOUTH CAROLINA.
troops, and charged with fixed bayonets; and the militia instantly followed the ex
ample. By these sudden and unexpected charges, the British, who had considered
the fate of the day decided, were thrown into confusion, and driven from the
ground with great slaughter. Howard and Washington pressed the advantage,
which they had respectively gained, until the artillery and a great part of the in
fantry had surrendered. So sudden was the defeat, that 250 horse, which had not
been brought into action, fled with precipitation. The first battalion of the 71st,
and two British light infantry companies, laid down their arms to the American
militia. Upward of 300 of the British were killed or wounded, and above 500 ta
ken prisoners ; 800 muskets, two field pieces, two standards, 35 baggage wagons,
and 100 dragoon horses, fell into the hands of the conquerors. Of the Americans,
12 men only were killed, and 60 wounded. Congress, in honor of the good con
duct of Gen. Morgan, presented him a gold medal; to Lieut Cols. Washington and
Howard, medals of silver; and to CoL JPickens, a sword"
View at King's Mountain Battle-ground,
The view annexed is from the foot of the hill whereon the hottest of King's Mountain fight occurred.
The north slope of that eminence is seen on the left. The simple monument, in memory of Ferguson and
others, by which a man is standing, is seen in the central part. The large tulip-tree on the right, is that
on which 10 tories were hung. This spot is about a mile and a half south of the North Carolina line.
Of those who submitted through fear, or from attachment to the British
cause — Maj. Ferguson, a British officer, was appointed commander. He was
dispatched, by Cornwallis, into the western part of North Carolina. Here
his force was augmented to 1,400 men. An enterprise against this party
was concerted by the commanders of the militia in the adjacent part of the
two Carolinas and Virginia. By great exertion, about 3,000 men were as
sembled at Gilbert-town. About 1,600 riflemen were selected and mounted
on their fleetest horses, soon overtook the retreating army, Oct. 7, 1780.
"They came up with the enemy at King's Mountain, where Ferguson, on find
ing that he should be overtaken, had chosen his ground, and waited for an attack.
The Americans formed themselves into three divisions, led by Cols. Campbell,
Shelby, and Cleveland, and began to ascend the mountain in three different and
opposite directions. Ferguson, falling with great boldness and impetuosity on the
SOUTH CAROLINA.
721
first assailants with fixed bayonets, compelled them to give way ; but before one
division could be dispersed, another came up, and poured in a heavy fire. Against
the second body of assailants, the bayonet was again used with success ; but before
any material advantage could be gained, a new enemy presented himself in an
other quarter. Ferguson again successfully used the bayonet; but both the corps,
which had been repulsed, now returning to the charge, a very galling fire was kept
up against him on all sides. The action having been continued in this manner
nearly an hour, Maj. Ferguson received a mortal wound, and instantly expired.
The survivors ended the contest by submission. In this sharp action, 150 of Fer
guson's party were killed on the spot, and about the same number wounded; 810,
of whom 100 were British troops, were made prisoners; and 1,500 stand of excel
lent arms were taken."
"No battle during the war," says Lossing, "was more obstinately contested than
this ; for the Americans were greatly exasperated by the cruelty of the tories, and
to the latter it was a question of life and death. It was with difficulty that the
Americans, remembering Tarleton's cruelty at Buford's defeat, could be restrained
from slaughter, even after quarter was asked. In addition to the loss of men on
the part of the enemy, mentioned in the report, the Americans took from them
1,500 stand of arms. The loss of the Americans in killed, was only 20, but they had
a great number wounded. Among the killed were Col. Williams and Maj. Chroni
cle. Col. Hambrite was wounded. Maj. Chronicle and Maj. Ferguson were
buried in a ravine at the northern extremity of the battle hill, where ^the friends
of the former erected a plain monument, a few years ago, with inscriptions upon
both sides. The monument is a thick slab of hard slate, about three feet high,
rough hewn, except where the inscriptions are. The following is a copy of the in
scriptions :
North side. — Sacred to the memory of Maj. WILLIAM
CHRONICLE, Capt. JOHN MATOCKS, WILLIAM ROBB, and
JOHN BOYD, who were killed here fighting in defense of
America, on the seventh of Oct. 1780. South side. — Col.
FERGUSON,* an officer belonging to his Britannic majesty,
was here defeated and killed.
On the morning after the battle, a court-martial was
held, and several of the tory prisoners were found guil
ty of murder and other high crimes, and hanged. "CoL
Cleveland had previously declared that if certain per-
.sons, who were the chief marauders, and who had
forfeited their lives, should fall into his hands, he
would hang them; 10 of these men were suspended
upon a tulip-tree, which is yet standing — a venerable
giant of the forest. This was the closing scene of
the battle on King's Mountain, an event which com
pletely crushed the spirits of the loyalists, and
weakened, beyond recovery, the royal power in the Carolinas. Intelligence of
the defeat of Ferguson destroyed all Cornwallis' hopes of tory aid."
\
MONUMENT ON KING'S MOUNTAIN.
BATTLE OF EUTAW SPRINGS.
The celebrated Eutaw Springs, memorable as being the scene of a bloody
conflict in the revolution, are in Charleston District, near the Orangeburg
line, about 60 miles north west from Charleston, and present a curious spec
tacle. The spring rises through a small opening in the cam, only a few
* Maj. Patrick Ferguson was a Scotchman, a son of the eminent jurist, James Ferguson, and nephew of
Patrick Murray (Lord Elibank). He entered the army in Flanders, at the age of 18 years. He camo to
America in the spring of 1777, and was active in the battle on the Brandywine, in September of that year.
He was active on the Hudson in 1779, and accompanied Sir Henry Clinton to South Carolina. He so dis
tinguished himself at the siege of Charleston in 1780, that he was particularly mentioned by the comman-
der-in-chief. He was on the high road to military fame, when he was slain on King's Mountain. Ho was
a major in the British army, and lieutenant-colonel of the tory militia.
722 SOUTH CAROLINA.
inches in diameter, and immediately forms a basin a few feet deep and about
150 paces in circumference. Thence it penetrates through a ridge of po
rous limestone, or concretion of large oyster shells. After traversing its
subterraneous way some 30 rods, it re-appears upon the other side, boiling
and bubbling up through a variety of passages, where it forms the head of
Eutaw creek, which, running for about two miles, finds its way into Santee
River.
The battle of Eutaw, Sept. 8, 1781, may be considered as closing the revo
lutionary war in South Carolina. Lord Rawdon having returned to Eng
land, the command of the British troops, in South Carolina, devolved upon
Lieut. Col. Stewart. Many skirmishes and movements took place during
the summer. The British having evacuated all their posts to the northward
of the Santee and Congaree, and the westward of Edisto; finally, on the ap
proach of Gen. Greene, took post at Eutaw Springs.
" On the 8th of September, at four in the morning, Gen. Greene advanced with
2,000 men, to attack them in their encampment. His army moved from the ground
in the following order: The South and North Carolina militia, commanded by
Gens. Marion and Pickens, and by Col. Malmedy, composed the front line; the
continental troops, from North Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland, led on by Gen.
Suinner, Lieut. Col. Campbell, and CoL Williams, composed the second line. The
legion of Lieut. Col. Lee covered the right flank; and the state troops of South
Carolina, under Lieut. Col. Henderson, covered the left. Lieut. Col. Washington,
with his cavalry, and Capt. Kirkwood with the Delaware troops, formed a corps
de reserve. As the army advanced, the van fell in with two parties of the British,
about four miles from the camp of Eutaw, and was briskly attacked ; but the ene
my, on receiving a heavy fire from the state troops, and a charge with the bayonet
from the infantry of the legion, soon retired. On notice of the approach of the
Americans, Lieut. Col. Stewart, who commanded the British army, immediately
formed the line of battle. It was drawn up obliquely across the road, on the
hights near Eutaw Springs. The right flank was covered by a battalion, com
manded by Maj. Majoribanks, the left of which approached the road, and was con
cealed by a thick hedge. The road was occupied by two pieces of artillery, and a
covering party of infantry. The front line of the Americans continuing to fire
and advance, the action soon became general. In the heat of the engagement,
Col. Williams and Lieut. Col. Campbell, with the Maryland and Virginia conti
nentals, were ordered to charge with trailed arms ; and nothing could exceed the
intrepidity with which these orders were executed. The troops rushed on in good
order through a tremenduous fire of artillery and musketry, and bore down all be
fore them. Lieut. Col. Campbell, while leading on his men to the decisive charge,
received a mortal wound. On inquiring, after he had fallen, who gave way, and
being told, that the British were fleeing in all quarters, he said, '/ die contented,1
and immediately expired. A part of the British line, consisting of new troops,
broke, and fled ; but the veteran corps received the charge of the assailants on the
points of their bayonets. The hostile ranks were a short time intermingled, and
the officers fought hand to hand ; but Lee, who had turned the British left flank,
charging them at this instant in the rear, their line was soon completely broken,
and driven off the field. They were vigorously pursued by the Americans, who
took upward of 500 of them prisoners. The enemy, on their retreat, took post in
a large three story brick house, and in a picketed garden; and from these advanta
geous positions renewed the action. Four six pounders were ordered up before
the house ; but the Americans were compelled to leave these pieces and retire.
They formed again at a short distance in the woods; but Gen. Greene, thinking it
inexpedient to renew the desperate attempt, left a strong picket on the field of bat
tle, and retired with his prisoners to the ground from which he had marched in
the morning. In the evening of the next day, Lieut. Col. Stewart, leaving 70 of
his wounded men and 1,000 stand of arms, moved from Eutaw toward Charleston.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
723
The loss of the British, inclusive of prisoners, was supposed to be not less than
1,100 men. The loss of the Americans, in killed, wounded, and missing, was 555.
Congress passed a vote of thanks to every corps in the army ; and a resolution
for presenting to Maj. Gen. Greene, "as an honorable testimony of his merit, a
British standard, and a golden medal, emblematic of the battle, and of hia victory.' "
East vitw of Furman University, at Greenville.
GREENVILLE, one of the handsomest villages in South Carolina, is at the
N. terminus of the Greenville and Columbia Railroad, in the N. W. section
of the state, 110 miles N. W.
of Columbia, and 225 miles
from Charleston. Its situa
tion is elevated and healthy,
which renders it a favorable
resort for persons who reside
in the lower country. Paris
Mountain, at a distance of
nine miles N. from Greenville,
Table Hock 25 miles, and
Cesar's Head 30 miles in a
N. W. direction from the
village, are places of resort
during the warm season of
the year. The Furman Uni
versity is a flourishing institu
tion quite recently established
in this place, having five or
six professors. The Univer
sity buildings are situated
about half a mile E. from the
village, on a picturesque eleva
tion surrounded with ro
mantic and beautiful scenery.
46
CHICK'S SPKINGS.
724 SOUTH CAROLINA.
Reedy River, a fordable stream, is seen in the lower part of the annexed en
graving ; on the left appear the flour mills which are put in operation by
the beautiful cascade which, at this place, flows over an immense bed of rocks.
The first settlers of Greenville were mostly from Virginia and North
Carolina. In 1813, there were but four or five families on the spot: those
of Judge Thompson, Capt. Jeremiah Cleveland, George Washington Earle,
Mrs. Wicklifle, and Capt. Roger Loveland, who came in 1813. The first
house of worship erected in the place, was for all denominations, as all con
tributed to its erection. The Episcopalians built their first church in 1836;
the Methodists next. The Baptists and Presbyterians held the first build
ing. Rev. Wm. Johnson appears to have been the first Baptist clergyman :
the first Presbyterian, the Rev. S. S. Giallard; their first church was erected
in 1851.
Chick's Spring, about 10 miles from Greenville, is a place of considerable
resort during the warm season. The buildings seen on the high elevation
in the distance beyond the forest trees, were erected by Dr. Chick, for the
accommodation of visitors. The spring itself, over which a roof is erected,
is at the bottom of the valley, in the foreground, on the left.
The annexed is a north-eastern view of the home of John C. Calhoun at Fort
Hill, 4 miles from the ancient village of Pendleton, S. C., and about 130
miles from Columbia, being in the extreme north-western section of the state.
Mr. Calhoun resided here for about thirty years. The building was erected
principally by him, by adding to an old mansion house built shortly after the
first settlement of this part of the country. It is large and commodious,
though not exactly in the style of modern architecture. The small structure
seen on the extreme left contains his library. The house is beautifully situ
ated on an elevation rising from the picturesque region of Seneca valley.
From the portico several fine residences of wealthy proprietors in the vicinity
are to be seen. In the distance appear mountainous regions of North Caro
lina and Georgia. The Blue Ridge, about forty miles distant, is discernable,
embracing the celebrated Whiteside and Table Mountains, which rise to an
elevation of between four and five thousand feet above the level of the ocean.
Mr. Calhoun, during the intervals of his public life, spent much of hia
time in agricultural pursuits, and no one stood higher as a practical farmer
or planter than he among his neighbors. The Fort Hill residence and es
tate, consisting of upward of eleven hundred acres, is now owned and occu*
pied by his eldest son, Col. Andrew Pickens Calhoun, who has resided here
for several years, and the appearance of his young family shows that they
live in the most healthy section of the state. One of his sons, though almost
an infant in years, bears in his countenance a striking resemblance to hia
grandfather the statesman during the latter period of his life. Col. Calhoun,
who is the president of the South Carolina State Agricultural Society, has
converted the Fort Hill lands from a cotton plantation to a fine stock and
grain estate. He has a large herd of Devon cattle, and is introducing some
of the best kind of the same blood from abroad. Col. C., besides the Fort
Hill estate, has a large cotton plantation in Alabama.
The place derived its name from there having been here anciently a stock
ade, called Fort Rutledge, on a hill near Mr. Calhoun's residence. This for
tification was a place of refuge for the inhabitants during the Indian war in
this region shortly after the close of the revolutionary contest. It is related
that after the Cherokees had besieged the fort for some time without success,
they had recourse to the following stratagem to draw out its inmates : They
SOUTH CAROLINA.
725
retired from the, siege, and nothing was heard from them for some time.
Many persons within the fort supposing that they had left the vicinity,
attempted to make good their retreat to Ninety- Six, a fortification some sixty
or seventy miles distant. This unfortunate party had proceeded but a few
hundred yards from the spot when they fell into an ambuscade of the enemy,
who massacred the whole number excepting one. Among those who were
killed was a Jew named Savadore, who was reconnoitering the country with
the view of making a purchase.
Residence of John C. Calhoun, at Fort Hill
The only vestige of the fort which now remains is an old well which the
inmates were forced to dig, although within a few yards of the river, as they
could not venture outside of the walls but at the imminent hazard of their
lives.
The Seneca River is within a few hundred yards of Col. Calhoun's resi
dence, passing round the base of the hill on which the fort formerly stood.
It commences about two miles above the Fort Hill plantation, being formed
by the junction of the Keowee and Twelve Mile rivers. This last river,
Twelve Mile, is not named in reference to its length, but, according to tradi
tion, from the following circumstances: An Indian woman who acted as ex
press to Ninety-Six had to cross a number of streams on her route. About.
726 SOUTH CAROLINA.
a mile from her point of departure she had to pass a stream, this was named
One Mile creek ; the second stream passed was twelve miles distant, this was
called Twelve Mile river; the others in succession were Eighteen, Twenty-
Third and Twenty-Six Mile creeks, which correspond very nearly with the dis
tance of these streams from her point of departure. There is a tradition that the
Seneca Indians from the North pushed their conquests south as far as this river,
when they were defeated and driven back by the Cherokees. Hence the name
of the stream.
We conclude this notice of Fort Hill by inserting here the beautiful eulo-
giurn to the memory of its once eminent occupant by Daniel Webster in the
U. S. Senate:
The eloquence of Mr. Calhoun, or the manner of his exhibition of his sentiments in
public bodies, was part of his intellectual character. It grew out of the qualities of his
mind. It was plain, strong, terse, condensed, concise ; sometimes impassioned, still al
ways severe. Rejecting ornament, not often seeking far for illustration, his power con
sisted in the plainness of his propositions, in the closeness of his logic, and in the earnest
ness and energy of his manner. These are the qualities, as I think, which have enabled
him through such a long course of years to speak often, and yet always command atten
tion. His demeanor as a senator is known to us all — is appreciated, venerated by us all.
No man was more respectful to others ; no man carried himself with greater decorum, no
man with superior dignity.
Sir, I have not in public or in private life known a more assiduous person in the discharge
of his appropriate duties. He seemed to have no recreation but the pleasure of conversa
tion with his friends. Out of the chambers of congress he was either devoting himself to
the acquisition of knowledge pertaining to the immediate subject of the duty before him,
or else he was indulging in some social interviews in which he so much delighted. His
colloquial talents were certainly singular and eminent. There was a charm in his conver
sation not often found. He delighted especially in conversation and intercourse with
young men. I suppose that there has been no man among us who had more winning man
ners in such an intercourse and conversation with men comparatively young than Mr. Cal
houn. I believe one great power of his character in general was his conversational talent.
I believe it is that, as well as a consciousness of his high integrity, and the greatest rever
ence for his talents and ability, that has made him so endeared an object to the people of
the state to which he belonged-
Mr. President, he had the basis, the indispensable basis, of all high character, and that
was, unspotted integrity, unimpeached honor and character. If he had aspirations, they
were high, and honorable and noble. There was nothing groveling or low or meanly
selfish that came near the head or heart of Mr. Calhoun. Firm in his purpose, perfectly
patriotic and honest, as I am sure he was, in the principles that he espoused and in the
measures that he defended, aside from that large regard for that species of distinction that
conducted him to eminent stations for the benefit of the republic, I do not believe he had a
selfish motive or selfish feeling. However, sir, he may have differed from others of
us in his political opinions or his political principles, those principles and those opinions
will now descend to posterity under the sanction of a great name. He has lived long
enough, he has done enough, and he has done it so well, so successfully, so honorably, as
to connect himself for all time with the records of his country. He is now an historical
character. Those of us who have known him here will find that he has left upon our minds
and our hearts a strong and lasting impression of his person, his character, and his public
performances, which while we live will never be obliterated. We shall hereafter, I am
sure, indulge in it as a grateful recollection that we have lived in his age, that we have
been his contemporaries, that we have seen him, and heard him, and known him. We shall
SOUTH CAROLINA.
727
delight to speak of him to those who are rising up to fill our places. And when the time
shall come that we ourselves shall go, one after another, to our graves, we shall carry
with us a deep sense of his genius and character, his honor and integrity, his amiable de
portment in private life, and the purity of his exalted patriotism.
The annexed is a south-western view of the ancient Stone Church, situated
in the forest about two miles north-east from Fort Hill and about three from
Pendleton village. It is the oldest and the first house erected for public
worship in the upper country of South Carolina. Gen. Andrew Pickens, the
revolutionary patriot, resided two miles from this church and about the same
distance from Fort Hill. The treaty of Hopewell, concluded Nov. 28, 1785,
South-western View of the Ancient Presbyterian Church near Pendleton.
with the Cherokees, was formed on Gen. Pickens' plantation. The Stone
Church has been recently repaired, and is occasionally used as a place of
public worship by various denominations. In the graveyard near the church
the remains of Gen. Pickens, of Gen. Anderson, and other distinguished per-
Bons, are interred. The following inscription is on the monument of Gen.
Pickens:
Gen. ANDRKW PICKENS was born 13th September, 1739, and died 17th August, 1817. He
was a Christian, a patriot and soldier. His character and actions are incorporated with the
history of his country. Filial affection and respect raise this monument to his memory.
728 SOUTH CAROLINA.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Sir Nathaniel Johnson, the successor of James Moore, in 1703, as governor of
South Carolina, was a man of military skill, and when Carolina was invaded by
the French and Spaniards in 1706 he displayed great judgment in the measures he
took for its defense. He first introduced the culture of silk in South Carolina;
this was in 1703. It was principally owing to his influence that the first estab
lishment of the Episcopal Church was effected in the province; a majority of the
inhabitants then were dissenters. He died in 1713.
William Bull, M. D., born in South Carolina, was the son of William Bull,
lieutenant-governor of the province in 1738; it is supposed that he was the first
American who obtained a degree in medicine. He studied medicine under the
celebrated Boerhaave. After his return from. Europe he held various public
offices, being speaker of the house of representatives and lieutenant-governor for
many years. When the British troops evacuated South Carolina in 1782, he ac
companied them to England, and died in London in 1791.
Thomas Heyward, Jr., a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in
St. Luke's parish, S. C. His father, Col. Heyward, one of the wealthiest planters
in the province,
spared no expense
in the education of
his son, and sent
him to England to
complete his stud
ies. Soon after his
return he commenced the practice of law. He was among the earliest who resisted
the oppression of the mother country. He remained in congress until 1 778, when
he was appointed a judge in the courts of South Carolina. He also held a military
commission, and when Charleston was captured he was made prisoner. He died
in March, 1809, at the age of 63.
Thomas Lynch, Jr., a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in St.
George's parish, S. C. He was a descendant of an ancient Austrian family, na
tives of the town
of Lintz, whore-
thence to Ire
land. His fath
er, who had great possessions, gave his son a superior education. He entered the
University of Cambridge, England, and studied law in one of the inns of the Tem
ple. He commenced his public life in Charleston in 1773, and became quite pop
ular. His health having become shattered by exposure while a captain in the
army, he was obliged to resign his seat in congress. On his return Mr. Lynch,
then about thirty years of age, embarked with his wife for the West Indies, hoping
he could find a neutral vessel in which he could procure a passage to Europe. The
vessel in which he sailed is supposed to have foundered at sea.
Arthur Middleton, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born at Mid-
dleton Place, S. C., in 1743. His father, a wealthy planter, sent his son to Eng
land to be educated,
as was then the cus
tom of the time. At
the age of twelve
years he was placed
in the celebrated
school at Hackney,
and after remaining
four years at Cambridge he graduated at that University with distinguished hon
ors. He then took a tour in Europe, and spent some time at Rome, where he be
came quite proficient as a painter. On his return he was active in the cause of
SOUTH CAROLINA.
729
his country, and was sent a delegate to the general congress at Philadelphia. In
1779, when South Carolina was invaded by the British, his property was exposed
to their ravages ; much of his immense estate was sacrificed, and he was sent a
prisoner to St. Augustine. He died Jan. 1, 1778, leaving a widow with eight
children.
Edward Rutledge, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in
Charleston in 1749. He studied law with an elder brother, and finished his edu
cation at the Inner Temple
in "London. He was a
member of the first con-
fiS/ press. When Charleston
was invested in 1780, Mr.
Rutledge, at the head of a
corps of artillery, while
endeavoring to throw
troops into the city, was taken prisoner and sent to St. Augustine. After the
British evacuated Charleston, Mr. Rutledge resumed the practice of his profession.
In 1798 he was elected governor of the state. He was a sufferer from hereditary
gout, of which disorder he died in January, 1800, aged 50. His eloquence was of
a high grade, being insinuating and conciliatory.
John Rutledge, an eminent patriot of the revolution, was a native of Ireland.
He was a member of the first congress of 1774, and in 1776, when the temporary
constitution of South Carolina was adopted, he was appointed president and com-
mander-in-chief of the colony. He was in 1779 chosen the first governor of the
state, and in 1796 was appointed chief justice of the United States. He dwd in
1800 at an advanced age.
Andrew Pickens was born in Paxton township, Pennsylvania, in September,
1739. In 1752 he removed with his father to the Waxhaw settlement in South
Carolina. He was one of the most active military partisans of the south; and dis
tinguished himself in various actions. After the close of the revolutionary war he
became a member of the legislature, and was elected to congress. He died in
August, 1817.
Charles Cotesworth Pinckney was born in Charleston in February, 1746. His
father (Chief Justice Pinckney) took him and his brother Thomas to Europe to be
educated at a very early age. He commenced the practice of law in 1770, and
when the revolutionary war broke out he entered the continental service as cap
tain. He was active in the defense of Charleston in 1776 and in 1780. When
the city was surrendered he became a prisoner, and suffered much from sickness
and cruel treatment. In 1796 he was minister to the French republic. While in
this office he uttered that noble sentiment: " Millions for defense, not one cent for
tribute.'1 For about twenty-five years he lived in elegant retirement, and died
Aug. 16, 1825, in the 80th year of his age.
Charles Pinckney and Thomas Pinckney were both revolutionary patriots, and
both governors of South Carolina, and both embassadors to foreign courts. The
former died in 1824, and the latter in 1828.
Henry Laurens, a revolutionary patriot of Huguenot descent, was born in
Charleston, in 1774, and was bred a merchant. He was a member of the conti
nental congress in 1777, and was chosen its president. In 1780 he sailed for Hol
land, as minister plenipotentiary, to negotiate a treaty with that power. "The
vessel he was in was captured by an English frigate. Mr. Laurens cast his papers
into the sea, but, as they did not sink immediately, they were recovered, and dis
closed the fact that Holland had already been in negotiation with the revolted
colonies. That discovery led to a declaration of war by Great Britain against Hol
land. Laurens was taken to London and imprisoned in the tower about fourteen
months, under a charge of high treason. For some time he was not allowed the
solace of conversation, books, pen, ink, paper, or the receipt of letters. ^ That rigor
was abated, yet his confinement made terrible inroads upon his constitution. At
length public sentiment expressed its displeasure because of his treatment, and
the'rninistry, fearing retaliation on the part of the Americans, desired an excuse
730 SOUTH CAROLINA.
to release him. One of his friends was instructed to say that he should be par
doned, if he would write a note to Lord North, and express his sorrow for what
ho had done. ' Pardon !' exclaimed Laurens, indignantly. ' I have done nothing
to require a pardon, and I will never subscribe to my own infamy and the dis
honor of my children.' He never could be induced to make the least concessions ;
and finally, when public clamor for his release became too vehement to be longer
disregarded, the ministry had him admitted to bail* on security procured by them
selves, and he was discharged before the allotted time of trial. Lord Shelburne
was then premier, and he solicited Mr. Laurens to remain in Europe, and assist in
the pending negotiations for peace. Laurens complied ; and in November, 1782,
he signed the preliminary treaty between the LTnited States and Great Britain.
Soon after that event he returned home, suffering much from the effects of his
rigorous confinement. His constitution was shattered beyond recovery, and he
steadily refused the honors of official station frequently offered him by his grate
ful countrymen. His health gradually failed, and on the 8th of December, 1792,
he expired when almost sixty-nine years of age. The following remarkable in
junction, expressed in his will, was literally complied with: 'I solemnly enjoin it
upon my son, as an indispensable duty, that as soon as he conveniently can after
my decease, he cause my body to be wrapped in twelve yards of tow-cloth, and
burnt until it be entirely consumed, and then, collecting my bones, deposit them
wherever he may think proper.' "
William Moultrie, a distinguished general of the revolution, emigrated from
England at a very early age. In 1760 he distinguished himself in the Cherokee
war. He also gained great eclat by his gallant defense of Fort Moultrie, on Sulli
van's Island, in 1776. In 1779 he gained a victory over the British at Beaufort;
and, at the siege of Charleston, was second in command. After the revolution he
was repeatedly elected governor of the state. He published memoirs of the war,
in the south, and died in 1805.
Francis Marion was born near Georgetown, South Carolina, in 1732. He
was quite diminutive at the time of his birth, but his life shows the superior
ity of mind over the body. He was,
perhaps, the ablest and most successful
partisan officer of the revolution. He
died at his residence, about three miles
below Eutaw Springs, Feb. 29, 1795.f
After the defeat of Gates, in 1780, the
cause of American liberty in South Car
olina was sustained with firmness by
Generals Marion, Sumter, and others.
GENERAL MARION'S KESIDENCE. Marion's cavalry were so destitute of
weapons that they were obliged to cut
their swords from the saws of saw-mills. With his small .force he ha
rassed the British and tories, and continually surprised and captured parties
of the enemy. He was so successful in concealing himself in woods and
marshes that the enemy were never able to attack or to discover him. From
these dark retreats he sallied forth upon the foe, with such secrecy and ce
lerity in his movements, that he received the appellation of the " Old Fox,
Marion" In one of his sallies, he released one hundred and fifty continen-
*0n one occasion, when he was requested to write to his son, John, then on a mission to
France, and advise him to leave that country, Mr. Laurens replied, "My son is of age, and
has a will of his own. If I should write to him in the terms you request, it would have no
effect ; he would only conclude that confinement and persuasion had softened me. I know
him to be a man of honor. He loves me dearly, and would lay down his life to save mine ;
but I am sure he would not sacrifice his honor to save mine, and I applaud him." That son
was worthy of such a father.
|The engraving of Marion's residence, and those of the battle-fields of Cowpens and
King's Mountain, are from Lossing's Field-book.
SOUTH CAROLINA. 73]
tal troops, who were taken prisoners at Camden. His repeated and success
ful excursions kept alive the spirit of resistance, and his high fame as a
partisan was never tarnished by any violation of the laws of war or of hu
manity. The annexed spirited verses, by Bryant, are deservedly popular.
SONG OF MARION'S MEN.
Our band is few, but true and tried, And woodland flowers are gather'd
Our leader frank and bold ; To crown the soldier s cup.
The British soldier trembles With merry songs we mock the wind
When MARION'S name is told. That in the pine-top grieves,
Our fortress is a good green wood, And slumber long and sweetly
Our tent the cypress tree : On beds of oaken leaves.
We know the forest round us
As seamen know the sea. Well knows the fair and friendly moon
We know its walls of thorny vines, The band that MARION leads —
It glades of reedy grass, The glitter of their rifles,
Its safe and silent islands The scampering of their steeds.
Within the dark morass. Tis life to guide the fiery barb
Across the moonlight plain ;
Woe to the English soldiery 'Tis life to feel the night-wind
That little dread us near ! That lifts its tossing inane.
On them shall light at midnight A moment in the British camp—
A strange and sudden fear : A moment — and away
When, waking to their tents on fire, Back to the pathless forest,
They grasp their arms in vain, Before the peep of day.
And they who stand to face us
Are beat to earth again ; Grave men there are by broad Santee,
And they who fly in terror deem Grave men with hoary hairs,
A mighty host behind, Their hearts are all with MARION,
And hear the tramp of thousands For MARION are their prayers.
Upon the hollow wind. And lovely ladies greet our band
With kindliest welcoming,
Then sweet the hour that brings release With smiles like those of summer,
From danger and from toil : And tears like those of spring.
We talk the battte over, For them we wear these lusty arms,
And share the battle's spoil. And lay them down no more,
The woodland rings with laugh and shout Till we have driven the Briton
As if a hunt were up, Forever from our shore.
David Ramsay, M. D., a revolutionary patriot, was a native of Pennsylvania
and in 1773, when twenty-three years of age, emigrated to Charleston, where he
rose to eminence in his profession. In 1782 he was elected to congress, and in
1785 was president pro tern. He wrote several historical works, the most noted of
which was his history of the revolution in South Carolina. He was eminent for
his great enterprise, for purity and philanthropy, and was a bright example of all
the Christian virtues. He died in 1815, of a wound received in the street from a
maniac.
Joel Poinsettj an eminent statesman, was born in South Carolina, in 1779. He
was minister to Mexico in the administration of John Q. Adams, and secretary
of war in that of Van Buren. He died in 1851.
George NcDvffie, the co-worker and friend of Calhoun and Hayne, and a zealous
defender of the peculiar institution of the south, was born in this state about the
year 1792. He was a representative in congress from 1821 until 1835, when he
was elected governor of the state. In 1841 he was elected to the United States
senate, but ill health, partly the result of a duel, occasioned his resignation. He
died in 1851.
Robert Y. Hayne, one of the most brilliant statesmen of South Carolina, was
born in the vicinity of Charleston, in 1791, and studied law in the office of the
celebrated Langdon Cheves. In the year 1823 he was elected to the United States
senate. His course in the senate rendered him extremely popular at home, and
he was a member of the South Carolina convention, which was called by the leg
islature, for reviewing the obnoxious tariff laws of Congress. The results of the
deliberations of the convention was the celebrated ordinance of nullification,
which was reported to that body by Mr. Hayne, as chairman of the committee to
732
SOUTH CAROLINA.
whom it had been referred, in November of 1832. A month later he was elected
governor of the state. General Jackson issued a proclamation, denouncing these
proceedings of South Carolina, but Governor Hayne stood firm, and the threatened
danger of a bloody issue was arrested by "the compromise act." While in the
senate he was a party in the great debate with Daniel Webster, the most celebrated
that ever occurred in that body. Governor Hayne died in 1841, in the fiftieth
year of his age. His private life was richly adorned with all the social and do
mestic virtues, and in his public career no one doubted the eminent purity of hia
patriotism.
William Lowndes was born in South Carolina, in 1780. He was a member of
congress from 1812 to 1822, and part of the time chairman of the committee of
ways and means. Resigning, from ill health, he died at sea the same year, at the
early age of forty-two years. He possessed a mind of the first order, and stood in
the very front rank of American statesmen. Peter Parley, who once heard him
in his place in congress, gives the following reminiscence :
" Soon after Lowndes arose, and there was a general movement of the members from the
most remote parts of the room toward him. His appearance was remarkable. He was six feet
two inches high — slender, bent, emaciated, and evidently of feeble frame. His complexion
was sallow and dead, and his face almost without expression. His voice, too, was low and
whispering. And yet he was, all things considered, the strong man of the house ; strong in
his various knowledge, his comprehensive understanding, his pure heart, his upright inten
tions, and, above all, in the confidence these qualities had inspired. Everything he said
was listened to as the words of wisdom. It was he who gave utterance to the sentiment
that the ' office of president of the United States teas neither to be solicited nor refused.' I was
unable to hear what he said, but the stillness around — the intent listening of the entire as
sembly — bore testimony to the estimation in which he was held. I never saw him afterward.
About two years later, he died on a voyage to England for the benefit of his health, and
thus, in the language of an eminent member of congress, ' were extinguished the bright
est hopes of the country, which, by a general movement,
were looking to him as the future chief magistrate of the
nation.' "
Washington Allston, who has been styled the
"American Titian," was born in South Carolina, in
1780, and died at Cambridge, Mass., in 1843, where
most of his life had been passed. This gifted painter
and poet has left an eminent reputation as an artist.
It has been said of him that no man ever possessed
a more exquisite appreciation of the beautiful.
The palmetto, which appears so conspicuously
on the arms of South Carolina, is a tree of slow
growth, not attaining its maturity till after a pe
riod of some fifty or sixty years. On the islands
these trees grow to the hight of thirty or forty
feet. They are peculiar to the low, sandy shores
of the southern states. The wood is spongy, and
the best known for cannon-shot, as it is so fibrous
and tough that it will receive a ball and close
over the hole ready to bury another. The one
represented in the engraving is in Bay street, in
Charleston, near the post-office. It is about
twenty-two feet in hight, and of fifteen }^ears
growth. The fort on Sullivan's Island, so effective in the defense of Charles
ton in 1776, was constructed of palmetto logs, in sections, and filled in with
sand.
Hugh S. Legare, an accomplished scholar and lawyer, was born in Charleston in
1797. In 1832 he was appointed charge d' affairs to Belgium. From 1837 to 1839
he was a representative in congress; and from 1841 until his death in 1843,
attorney general of the United States. His fine taste as a writer, his eminent ac-
PALMETTO TREE, CHARLESTON.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
733
quirements as a scholar, and his learning and eloquence as a lawyer, were widely
appreciated.
Langdon Ch eves was born in the Abbeville district, South Carolina, in 1776;
was admitted to the bar, and, for a time, was atttorney general of the state. He
was a representative in congress from 1811 to 1816, and was speaker during the
second session of thirteenth congress. For a time he was president of the United
States bank. Resigning his trust, he retired to private life, and died in 1857.
James Gadsden was born at Charleston, in 1788, and was educated at Yale. He
was aid of General Jackson, in the Seminole war. In 1853 he was sent as minis
ter to Mexico, where he made from. Mexico the celebrated "Gadsden purchase," for
ten millions of dollars — now the territory of Arizona, and the richest silver bear
ing district known on the globe. He died in 1858.
Huguenot Church in Charleston.
HUGUENOT COLONISTS.
Huguenot is an appellation given to the reformed or protestant Calvinists
of France. The name had its rise in 1560, but authors are not agreed as to
the origin or occasion of its being used. Some derive it from a French and
faulty pronunciation of the German word edignossen, signifying confederates,
and originally applied to that valiant part of the city of Geneva which en
tered into an alliance with the Swiss cantons, in order to maintain their lib
erties against the tyrannical attempts of Charles III, duke of Savoy. These
confederates were called Eignots ; whence Huguenots.
These people underwent a series of persecutions which hardly have a parallel.
During the reign of Charles IX, and on August 24, 1572, happened the massacre
of St. Bartholomew, in which it is computed that thirty thousand Huguenots per
ished in various parts of France. In 1598, Henry IV passed the famous edict of
Nantes, which secured to the Protestants the free exercise of their religion. The
formal revocation of this important act did not take place till the year 1685. For
some time previous, the Huguenots had been gradually robbed of one privilege
after another, and scarcely retained the shadow of their rights. The revocation
was intended as a final or death-blow to Protestantism.
The revocation of the edict of Nantes was followed by rigorous enactments.
These, with those put in force before, caused a vast number of the most virtuous
people in France to leave their native country and find refuge elsewhere. It is
734 SOUTH CAROLINA.
supposed that within a short time eight hundred thousand protestants left France
and sought an asylum in foreign lands. Some fled to America. Quite a number
came to New England — to Boston. A colony was located in Oxford, in Massa
chusetts. Some went into the provinces, and located themselves at New Rochelle,
and elsewhere. "One hundred and seventy families, besides private individuals,
settled in South Carolina, and a large portion of them on the south side of the
Santee River, where they laid out a town to which they gave the name of ' James
town.' Others fixed their residences in Charleston, and its vicinity. There was a
settlement of them in Berkeley county, which they called the ' Orange Quarter,'
and afterward the parish of St. Dennis. A few families settled at St. John's
Berkeley."
At the period of the revocation of the edict of Nantes, the English, who at
this time had a parental feeling for their young colonies, encouraged the Hu
guenots to migrate to America, particularly cultivators of land, of which they pos
sessed here such an abundant extent. The band of Huguenot settlers, although
at first much unjust prejudice existed against them, was a great acquisition to the
infant colony of South Carolina. They were before the English in many of the
arts, and better understood the cultivation of land. In the course of a few years
the antipathy of the English melted away, intermarriages took place, and the
most perfect harmony existed between them and the French refugees.
The four early congregations first formed in South Carolina professed the doc
trines, and worshiped according to the forms, of the church of Geneva. After
the act of assembly, in 1706, by which the church of England gained a legal set
tlement in the colony, three of these congregations, conforming to the new order
of things, became Episcopalian. The Huguenot church in Charleston, however,
maintained its original distinctive features. Its founder was the Rev. Elias Prio-
leau, a descendant of the Prioli family, which, in 1618, gave a doge to Venice.
The following is extracted from the " Huguenots in France and America," a work
published in Boston, by Munroe & Co., in 1852:
'• The French Calvinistic church in Charleston adhered to its pecular worship. It was
built about 1693. The time of worship was regulated by the tide, for the accommodation of
the members, who, many of thern, came by the river from the settlements round. We can
hardly imagine anything more picturesque than these little boats, borne on the water and
filled with noble and daring beings, who had endured danger and suffering, and risked
their lives, for the spiritual life of the soul. Often the low chant was distinguished amidst
the dashing of the oars, and sometimes an enthusiastic strain swelled on the ear, like those
that proceeded from the lips of the martyrs when the flames curled around them."
Many illustrious names of Huguenot origin stand recorded in the annals of
American history. " Three of the nine presidents of the old congress, which con
ducted the United States through the revolutionary war, were descendants of
French protestant refugees, who had migrated to America in consequence of the
revocation of the edict of Nantes. The persons alluded to were Henry Laurens,
of South Carolina ; John Jay, of New York ; and Elias Boudinot, of New Jersey.
The ancestors of General Marion, so distinguished in revolutionary history, were
Huguenots. The first child born in New York was a daughter of George Rapa-
eligo, in 1625, a descendant of Huguenot ancestors, who had fled from the St,
Bartholomew massacre."
GEOKGIA.
GEORGIA was the last settled of the thirteen original states. Its territory
was originally included within the limits of the Carolina charter, but no set
tlement was made until after that char
ter was forfeited. The settlement of a
colony was designed in England about
the year 1732, for the accommodation
of poor people in Great Britain and
Ireland, for the further security of
Carolina, and also as a place of refuge
for the persecuted Protestants of all na
tions. It was also a part of the plan
to attempt the conversion and civiliza
tion of the native Indians.
In the settlement of the colony, pri
vate compassion and public spirit were
combined. Humane and opulent per
sons suggested a plan of transporting
a number of indigent families to this
part of America free of expense. For
this purpose they applied to the king,
George II, and obtained from him
letters patent dated June 9, 1732, for legally carrying into execution what
they had generously projected. They called the new province Georgia, in
honor of the king who had encouraged the plan.
A corporation consisting of twenty-one persons was constituted, by the
name of trustees, for settling and establishing the colony of Georgia, which
was separated from Carolina by the river Savannah. The trustees having
first set the example themselves, by largely contributing to the scheme, un
dertook also to solicit benefactions from others, and to apply the money to
ward clothing, arming and purchasing utensils for cultivation, and to the
transportation of such poor people as should be willing to go over and begin
a settlement. Their views were not confined to British subjects, but a door
(735)
ASMS OF GEORGIA.
Motto : Wisdom, Justice and Moderation.
736 GEORGIA.
was opened for the indigent and oppressed protestants of other nations. To
prevent a misapplication of the money it was deposited in the Bank of Eng
land.
In July, 1732, the trustees for Georgia held their first meeting, chose Lord
Percival president of the corporation, and ordered a common seal to be made.
In November following about 130 settlers, with James Oglethorpe, one of the
trustees, as their head and director, set sail from Gravesend in the ship Anne,
of 200 tuns, for America. They arrived off the bar of Charleston Jan. 13,
1733. Mr. Oglethorpe went on shore to wait on Governor Johnson, and
was received with great marks of civility and satisfaction. The king's pilot
was ordered to his assistance to carry the ship into Port Royal, and from
thence small craft was furnished to carry the settlers to their intended place
of settlement on the Savannah River.
The general assembly of Carolina met three days after the departure of
Oglethorpe, and on motion of the governor they resolved that he should be
furnished, at the public expense, with 104 breeding cattle, 25 hogs, and 20
barrels of good rice; that boats also should be provided to transport the
people, provisions and goods, and that scout-boats and a guard of fifteen ran
gers should be put under the command of Mr. Oglethorpe for his protection
and that of the settlers. The governor also prevailed upon Colonel Bull, a
member of the council, and a gentleman of great probity and experience, to
attend Mr. Oglethorpe to Georgia.
Oglethorpe having arrived at Yamacraw, on the Savannah River, on Feb.
1, 1733, he explored the country and fixed on a high spot of ground (the
present site of Savannah) near that Indian town for commencing a settlement.
Having put the colony in a state of safety by the erection of a fort, etc., the
next object of Oglethorpe's attention was to treat with the Indians for a share
of their lands. The territory was principally occupied by the Upper and
Lower Creeks, who were computed to amount to about twenty-five thousand,
men, women and children, and these tribes laid claim to the lands lying
south-west of Savannah River. It appeared, therefore, of the highest conse
quence to procure their friendship. By the assistance of an Indian woman
who had married a trader from Carolina, who could speak both the English
and Creek languages, Oglethorpe summoned a general meeting of the chiefs
at Savannah to confer with him in order to procure their consent to the peace
able settlement of his colony.
The meeting, or congress, was accordingly held, at which fifty chieftains
were present. Oglethorpe represented to them the great power, wisdom and
wealth of the English, and the advantage it would be to form a connection
with that nation, and expressed his hope that, as they had plenty of lands,
they would freely resign a share of them to his people, who, for their benefit
and instruction, had come to reside among them. After he had distributed
presents among the Indians an agreement was made. Tomochiclii, in the
name of the Creek warriors, now made a speech. Among other observations
he said : "Here is a little present," and then gave him a buffalo's skin,
painted on the inside with the head and feathers of an eagle, and desired him
to accept it, "because the eagle signifies speed, and the buffalo strength. The
English," he proceeded, "are as swift as the bird and strong as the beast —
since, like the first, they fly from the utmost parts of the earth over the vast
seas, and, like the second, nothing can withstand them. The feathers of the
eagle are so/if, and signify love; the buffalo's skin is warm, and signifies pro
tection; he hoped, therefore, that they would love and protect their little
families."
GEORGIA.
A colony now being planted in Georgia, the trustees proceeded to establish
certain regulations. One of these regulations was that the lands should not
be sold by the owners, but should descend to their male children only. <On
the termination of the male line, the wives of such persons as should survive
them were to be, during their lives, entitled to the mansion-house and one-
half of the lands improved by their husbands. No man was permitted to de
part from the colony without a license. If any of the lands granted by the
trustees should not be cultivated, cleared and fenced about with a worm fence,
or poles six feet high, within eighteen years, the grant respecting it to be
come void. The use of negroes was to be absolutely prohibited, and also the
importation of rum. Some of these regulations proved quite detrimental to
the colonists. Some of the settlers finding that they would procure more ex
tensive tracts of lands in other colonies, and on better terms, were induced to
remove.
Beside the large sums of money the trustees had expended for the settle
ment of Georgia, parliament had also granted, during the last two years,
thirty-six thousand pounds toward carrying into execution the humane pur
pose of the corporation. After the representations and memorials from the
legislature of Carolina had reached Great Britain, the nation considered
Georgia to be of the utmost importance to the British settlements in Amer
ica, and began to make still more vigorous efforts for its speedy popu
lation.
The first embarkations of poor people from England, being collected from
towns and cities, were found equally idle and useless members of society
abroad as they had been at home. A hardy and bold race of men, inured to
rural labor and fatigue, they were persuaded, would be much better adapted
both for cultivation and defense. To find men possessed of these qualifica
tions they turned their eyes to Germany and the Highlands of Scotland, and
resolved to send over a number of Scotch and German laborers to their infant
province. When they published their terms at Inverness, one hundred and
thirty Highlanders immediately accepted them and were transported to
Georgia.
The river Alatamaha was at this time considered as the boundary between
the British and Spanish territories. A township on this river was allotted to
the Highlanders, who built a town in this exposed situation, which they called
New Inverness, now Darien. About the same time one hundred and seventy
Germans embarked with Oglethorpe, and were fixed in another quarter, so
that in the space of three years Georgia received above four hundred British
subjects. Afterward several adventurers both from Scotland and Germany
followed their countrymen into the province.
In 1736, John Wesley, the eminent founder of Methodism, made a visit to
Georgia for the purpose of preaching to the colonists and converting the In
dians. "He was then young and ardent; the people around him felt less
ardor than himself, and his pious zeal soon brought him into collision with
some of the principal settlers. He was accused of diverting the people from
their labor to attend his religious meetings, and of exercising unwarranted
ecclesiastical authority. Persecuted by his enemies, and finding he could
render no further service to the cause of religion in the colony, he returned
to England, and there for many years pursued a distinguished career of piety
and usefulness."
In 1739, George Whitefield, the celebrated preacher, commenced his Or
phan House, at a place he called Bethesda, about nine miles from Savannah.
For the support of this institution he crossed the Atlantic several times, and
738 GEORIGA.
traversed Great Britain and America soliciting aid from the pious and char
itable. Wherever he went he preached with such surpassing eloquence that
great crowds attended his ministrations. Notwithstanding his exertions his
orphan house during his lifetime did not flourish to any extent, and after his
death was abandoned.
The trustees of the colony, in 1740, rendered an account of their adminis
tration. To that period, about 2,500 emigrants had arrived in the colony.
The benefactions from individuals and the government, had amounted to
nearly half a million of dollars; and it was computed that for every person
transported and maintained by the trustees, more than 300 dollars had been
expended. The hopes of the trustees, that their colony would become flour
ishing, were disappointed. Their injudicious regulations and restrictions,
caused many complaints and insurrections. Notwithstanding all the expense
bestowed upon the colony, it continued to languish, until 1752, when their
charter was surrendered to the king.
In 1739, war being declared by Great Britain against Spain, Oglethorpe
went into the Indian country, 500 miles distant from Frederica, to obtain
the friendship and assistance of the natives. At Coweta he conferred with
the Chickasaws and other deputies. They declared, that by ancient right,
that all the territories, lands, and islands, from the Savannah River to St.
John's River, in Florida, belonged to the Creek nation, and they agreed that
they would not suifer the Spaniards, or any persons, excepting the trustees
of the Georgia colony, to settle on those lands-
Oglethorpe being promoted to the rank of general in the British army,
collected a force of about 2,000 men, partly from Virginia and the Carolinas,
for an expedition against Florida. Being assisted by a considerable party
of Indians, he took two Spanish forts, and besieged St. Augustine. The
Spaniards having received, by some means, a reinforcement of 700 men, and
a supply of provisions, made such an obstinate resistance, that Gen. Ogle
thorpe was compelled to abandon the* enterprise and return to Frederica.
In 1742, war continuing with the Spaniards, Gen. Oglethorpe fixed his
head-quarters at Frederica, and waited in expectation of a reinforcement
from Carolina.
" About the last of June, the Spanish fleet, amounting to 32 sail, and carrying
above 3,000 men, under the command of Don Manuel de Monteano, came to an
chor off St. Simon's bar; and, after sounding the channel, passed through Jekyl
Sound, received a fire from Oglethorpe at Fort Simons, and proceeded up the Ala-
tamaha, beyond the reach of his guns. Here the enemy landed, and erected a
battery with 20 18 pounders mounted on it. Oglethorpe, judging his situation at
Fort Simons to be dangerous, spiked up the guns; burst the bombs and cohorns;
destroyed the stores ; and retreated to Frederica. With a force amounting to lit
tle more than 700 men, exclusive of Indians, he could not hope to act but on the
defensive, until the arrival of reinforcements from Carolina. He, however, em
ployed his Indians, and occasionally his Highlanders, in scouring the woods, ha
rassing the outposts of the enemy, and throwing every impediment in their
marches. In the attempts of the Spaniards to penetrate through the woods and
morasses to reacli Frederica, several rencounters took place ; in one of which they
lost a captain and two lieutenants killed, and above 100 men taken prisoners.
Oglethorpe at length, learning, by an English prisoner who escaped from, the Span
ish camp, that a difference subsisted between the troops from Cuba and those from
St. Augustine, occasioning a separate encampment, resolved to attack the enemy
while thus divided. Taking advantage of his knowledge of the woods, he marched,
out in the night with 300 chosen men, the Highland company and some rangers,
with the intention of surprising the enemy. ^Having advanced within two miles
of the Spanish camp, he halted his troops, and went forward himself with a select
GEORGIA.
739
corps, to reconnoiter the enemy's situation. While he was endeavoring cautious
ly to conceal his approach, a French soldier of his party discharged his musket,
and ran into the Spanish lines.
The general now returned to Frederica, and endeavored to effect, by stratagem,
what could not be achieved by surprise. Apprehensive that the deserter would
discover to the enemy his weakness, he wrote to him a letter, desiring him to ac
quaint the Spaniards with the defenseless state of Frederica, and the ease with
which his small garrison might be cut to pieces. He pressed him to bring forward
the Spaniards to an attack ; but, if he could not prevail thus far, to use all his art
and influence to persuade them to stay at least three days more at Fort Simons ;
for within that time, according to advices just received from Carolina, he should
have a reinforcement of 2,000 land forces, with six British ships-of-war. The let
ter concluded with a caution to the deserter against dropping the least hint of
Admiral Vernon's meditated attack upon St. Augustine, and with assurance, that
for his service he should be amply rewarded by the British king. Oglethorpe gave
it to the Spanish prisoner, who, for a small reward together with his liberty,
promised to deliver it to the French deserter. On his arrival, however, at the
Spanish camp, he gave the letter, as Oglethorpe expected, to the commander-in-
chief, who instantly put the deserter in irons. This letter perplexed and con
founded the Spaniards ; some suspecting it to be a stratagem to prevent an attack
on Frederica, and others believing it to contain serious instructions to direct the
conduct of a spy. While the Spanish officers were deliberating what measures to
adopt, an incident, not within the calculation of military skill, or the control of
human power, decided their counsels. Three ships of force, which the governor
of South Carolina had sent out to Oglethorpe' s aid, appeared at this juncture off
the coast. The agreement of this discovery with the contents of the letter, con
vinced the Spanish commander of its real intention. The whole army, siezed
with an instant panic, set fire to the fort, and precipitately embarked, leaving seve
ral cannon, with a quantity of provisions and military stores ; and thus, in the
moment of threatened conquest, was the infant colony providentially saved."
From the time Georgia became a royal government, in 1752, until the
peace of Paris, in 1763, she struggled with many difficulties arising from the
want of credit, and the frequent molestations of enemies. After the peace,
the colony began to flourish under the fatherly care of Gov. Wright. In the
year 1763, the exports of Georgia consisted only of 7,500 barrels of rice,
9,633 pounds of indigo, 1,250 bushels of Indian corn, which, together with
deer and beaver skins, naval stores, provisions, timber, etc., amounted to no
more than £27,021 sterling. Ten years afterward, in 1773, it exported com
modities to the value of £121,677 sterling.
During the revolutionary war, Georgia was overrun by the British troops,
and many of the inhabitants were obliged to flee into the neighboring states
for safety. The sufferings and losses of her citizens were as great, in pro
portion to her numbers, as in the sister states. In Dec. 1778, Savannah was
taken by the British, and in October following, Count Pulaski, a Polish
officer in the American service, was mortally wounded in an unsuccessful as
sault on this place. The first state constitution was formed in 1777, the
second in 1785, and the present in 1798, and amended in 1839.
During the early history of Georgia, as a state, its growth was impeded
by the hostile irruptions of the Creek Indians. The final settlement of all
difficulties with this tribe, was accomplished at Wetumpka, in 1828, by a
treaty, when all their lands, in the state of Georgia, were ceded to the United
States. The last difficulty with the Indians was that with the Clierokccs, who
occupied the entire north-western part of Georgia, still known as Cherokee
Georgia. This tribe was considerably advanced in civilization, and had their
own printed constitution, and a code of laws by which they had declared
themselves an independent state. These acts of sovereignty, by the Indians,
47
740 GEORGIA.
conflicted with the jurisdiction exercised by Georgia within her state limits,
and occasioned much difficulty. A treaty was finally concluded at New
Echota, in May 1836, with some of the principal chiefs of the nation, where
by all their lands which they claimed east of the Mississippi River, were
ceded to the United States.
Georgia is bounded N. by parts "of Tennessee and North Carolina, E. by
South Carolina and the Atlantic Ocean, S. by Florida, and "W. by the Ala
bama. It extends 300 miles from north to south, with an average breadth
of 200 miles, and includes an area of 58,000 square miles, Lat. 30° 22', to
35 N.: Long. 80° 50', to 85° 40' W. Georgia has every variety of surface,
from the mountain of the north, to the alluvial flats on the sea coast. From
the ocean, for a distance of seven miles, there is a series of islands inter
sected by rivers, creeks, and inlets, communicating with each other and
forming an inland navigation for steamboats along the whole coast. These
islands produce cotton of a superior quality. The coast on the main land,
from three to five miles in width, is a salt marsh. Back of this, the land
continues level, and the pine barrens reach from 60 to 90 miles from the
coast. Beyond these is the country of sand-hills, 30 to 40 miles wide, inter
spersed with fertile tracts. The "Upper Country" is that part of the state
above the falls of the rivers, and is generally a strong and fertile soil, pro
ducing cotton, Indian corn, wheat, etc. The northern part of the state is
rich in mineral wealth, gold, iron, coal, copper, etc. Georgia is rich in the
natural elements of wealth; and in the enterprise of her citizens, she stands
first among the states of the south : also in the number and extent of her
railways. In the production of sweet potatoes, Georgia is first, and in cot
ton and rice, the second state in the Union.
Population of Georgia in 1790, was 82,548; in 1840, 691,392; in 1850,
906,185, of whom 381,682 were slaves.; in 1860, 1,075,977.
SAVANNAH, the largest city in Georgia, and one of the most thriving in the
state, is situated on the south-east bank of Savannah River, on a sandy bluff
40 feet above low-water mark, 12 miles in a direct line from the Atlantic-
Ocean, and 18 miles by the course of the river. It is 90 miles from Charles
ton ; 120 from Augusta, and 158 from Milledgeville. The safety of the chan
nel, in entering the harbor, much enhances its commercial importance ; ves
sels requiring 13 feet of water can load at the wharves of the city. Popula
tion is about 28,000.
Savannah was founded by James Oglethorpe, who landed here with about
40 families of emigrants, Feb. 1, 1733; on that day four large tents were
erected on shore sufficient to hold all the people, who, the ensuing night,
slept on land. The first week was spent in making a crane and unlading
their goods, after which Mr. Oglethorpe divided the people ; employing part
in clearing the land for seed, part in beginning the palisade, and the remain
der in felling trees. The first house was begun on the 9th ; on this day Mr.
Oglethorpe and Col. Bull marked out the square, the streets and 40 lots for
houses of the town, and the settlement, after the Indian name of the river
which ran by it, was called Savannah.
" On the 7th of July, the settlers assembled on the strand (the bay), for
the purpose of designating the lots. In a devotional service they united in
thanksgiving to God, 'that the lines had fallen to them in a pleasant place,
and that they were about to have a goodly heritage.' The wards and tith-
ings were then named ; each ward consisting of four tithings, and each tithing
GEORGIA.
741
of ten houses, and a house and lot were given to each freeholder. After a
dinner provided by the governor, the grant of a court of record was read, and
the officers appointed. The session of the magistrates was then held, a jury
impanneled, and a case tried. This jury was the first impanneled in Georgia."
Ancient view of Savannah.
1. The stairs going up. 6. The house for strangers.
2. Mr. Oglethorpe's tent. 7. The public oven.
3. The crane and bell. 8. The draw well.
4. The tabernacle & c't house. 9. The loft for the church.
5. The public mill. 10. The public stores.
11. The fort.
12. The parsonage house.
13. The pallissadoes.
14. Guard house & battery.
15. Hutchinson's Island.
The above is copied from a large engraving published, it is believed, in London, at the time of the first
settlement of Savannah. The following is conspicuously enjrraved upon the plate. "To the Hon. the
Trustees for establishing the Colony of Georgia, in America, this view of the town of Savannah is humbly
dedicated by their Honours obliged and most obedient Servant, Peter Gordon.
"The town was governed by the three bailiffs, and had a recorder, register,
and a town court holden every six weeks, where all matters civil and criminal
were decided by grand and petit juries, as in England. No lawyers were al
lowed to plead for hire, or attorneys to take money, but (as in old times in
England) each could plead his own cause. In October, 1741, the government
of the colony was changed from that of the bailiffs to trustees. In 1750, the
number of white persons in Georgia was computed at about 1,500. The first
royal governor, John Reynolds, Esq., arrived in Savannah in October, 1754.
The first printing press was established in 1763, and the 'Georgia Gazette'
printed on the 7th of April of that year. In 1766, the city consisted of
four hundred dwelling-houses, a church, an Independent meeting-house, a
council-house, a court-house, and a filature. In 1770, the city extended on
742
GEORGIA.
the west to what is now Jefferson -street, on the east to what is now Lincoln-
street, and on the south to what is now South Broad-street, and contained
six squares and twelve streets beside the bay."*
The site of Savannah "is a sandy terrace, some forty feet above low water
mark. It is regularly built, with streets so wide and so unpaved, so densely
shaded with trees, and so full of little parks, that but for the extent and ele
gance of its public edifices it might seem to be an overgrown village, or a
score of villages rolled into one. There are no less than twenty-four little
green squares scattered through the city, and most of the streets are lined
with the fragrant flowering China tree, or the Pride of India, while some of
them, as Broad and Bay-streets, have each four grand rows of trees, there
being a double carriage-way, with broad walks on the outsides, and a prome
nade between them."
The engraving annexed embraces the whole length of Bull-street, showing
the two monuments, which are about three-fourths of a mile apart. The
view is taken looking southward from the Exchange, a public building in
Bay-street, situated on the verge of the elevated bank of Savannah River.
Most of the public edifices are on or near the four or five squares embraced in
the view. On the left is seen part of the Custom-house, the lower story being the
Post-office ; on the right is the Pulaski House, beyond which rises the spire
of the Independent Presbyterian Church, one of the most splendid buildings
View in the Central Part of Savannah.
in the city. It was erected of light colored granite, at a cost of nearly
$120,000. In the central part of the view is seen the monument in Johnson
* Hist, account of Savannah in the "Southern and Western Journal of Progress."
GEORGIA.
743
square, erected in memory of Gen. Greene, the corner-stone of which was laid
by Lafayette during his visit to this country in 1825. The Pulaski monu
ment is just discernible, at a distance of three-fourths of a mile, at the south
ern limit of the city.
The city has 14 Protestant and 1 or 2 Catholic churches, 1 Hebrew syna
gogue, 5 banks, the Georgia Historical Society, several reading-rooms, and a
public library of about 6,000 volumes. Five daily newspapers' are published.
The private schools are numerous, and liberal provision is made for the edu
cation of the poor. There are also numerous charitable institutions. The
hall of the Georgia Historical Society is a beautiful building, and well
adapted for the purposes for which it is intended. The society is in its in
fancy, but it has published two volumes of interesting collections, and has a
valuable collection of manuscripts and rare books. Among the relics col
lected is a drum used at the battles of Eutaw, Saratoga and Cowpens; Gen.
Greene's medal; a sword taken from the side of a slain Tory officer at the
battle of King's Mountain, made from a saw plate ; a piece from the keel of
the ship Endeavor, etc.
The annexed engraving is a
representation of a house in
South Broad-street, said to be
the oldest brick dwelling-house
in Savannah. Governor Mar
tin, about three weeks after the
evacuation of Savannah by the
British, in 1782, called a special
meeting of the legislature, which
assembled in this house. The
session was short, but marked
by decision and energy. On the
first Monday in January, 1783,
the constitutional session com-
_ menced at the same place. "Ev-
HOUSE IN SAVANNAH. ery branch of the new govern
ment was speedily organized,
and the free and independent state of Georgia began its career."
The first attack on Savannah by the British during the revolution was in
March, 1776. It ended in the defeat of the regulars under Majors Maitland
and Grant. On the 29th of December, 1778, Savannah was taken by the
British. The following account of this event is from Holmes' Annals:
Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell, an officer of courage and ability, embarked on the
27th of November from New York for Savannah, with about 2,000 men, under the
convoy of some ships-of-war, commanded by Commodore Hyde Parker, and in about
three weeks landed near the mouth of Savannah River. From the landing-place a
narrow causeway of 600 yards in length, with a ditch on each side, led through a
swamp. At this causeway a small party was posted under Capt. Smith, to impede
the passage of the British, but it was almost instantly dispersed. General Howe,
the American officer to whom the defense of Georgia was committed, had taken his
station on the main road, and posted his little army, consisting of about 600 conti
nentals and a few hundred militia, between the landing-place and the town of Sa
vannah, with the river on his left and a morass in front. While Colonel Camp
bell was making arrangements to dislodge his adversaries, he received intelligence
744
GEORGIA.
from a negro of a private path, on the right of the Americans, through which his
troops might march unobserved; and Sir James Baird, with the light infantry, was
directed to avail himself of this path, in order to turn their right wing and attack
their rear. As soon as it was judged that he had cleared his passage, the British
in front of the Americans were directed to advance and engage. General Howe,
finding himself attacked both in rear and in front, ordered an immediate retreat.
The British pursued, and their victory was entire. Upward of 100 of the Ameri
cans were killed, and 38 officers, 415 privates, the town and fort of Savannah, 48
pieces of cannon, 23 mortars, the fort with its ammunition and stores, the shipping
in the river, and a large quantity of provisions, were in a few hours in possession
of the conquerors. The whole loss of the British, during the day, amounted to no
more than 7 killed and 19 wounded. That part of the American army which es
caped retreated up the Savannah River to Zubly's Ferry, and crossed over into
South Carolina.
The monument erected in 1854 to the memory of Pulaski is situated
near the pine grove, on the southern
border of the city. It is 55 feet in
hight, of Italian marble, erected at
an expense of $17,000. The remains of
Pulaski, who was buried at Greenwich,
on Augustine creek, five miles from
Savannah, are deposited in a case, with
various articles and documents, under
neath the monument. The northern
side has a representation of Pulaski
falling from his horse when he had re
ceived his fatal wound. The monu
ment itself is surmounted by a statue
of liberty.
In the assault on Savannah, Gen.
Pulaski was with the regular cavalry,
and other mounted corps, but was una
ble to participate in the fight, being in
reserve for a charge as soon as a breach
could be effected in the enemy's works.
His penetrating eye having discovered
an opening through which he believed
an entrance could be effected, and
thereby gain the enemy's rear, he com
municated this fact to Gen. Lincoln,
with his plan of operation ; that officer
sanctioned the movement. At the head
of his brave and dashing cavalry, he
led off the charge, but "ere the point
he gained" a fatal grape-shot pierced his groin, and in a moment he lay
prostrate within a few yards of the enemy's battery. This spot is about one
hundred rods from the present depot of the Central Railroad. The following
account of the assault is from Holmes' Annals:
On the morning of the 4th of October, 1779, the batteries of the besiegers were
opened with 9 mortars, 37 pieces of cannon from the land side, and 15 from the
water. It being at length ascertained that considerable time would be necessary
to reduce the garrison by regular approaches, it was determined to make an as
sault. In pursuance of this determination, on the 9th of October, while two feints
NOUTH VIEW OF PULASKI MONUMENT, SAVANNAH.
GEORGIA. 745
•were made with the militia, a real attack was made on Spring Hill battery, just as
daylight appeared, with two columns, consisting of 3,500 French troops, 600 conti
nentals, and 350 of the inhabitants of Charleston. The principal of these columns,
commanded by Count D'Estaing and General Lincoln, marched up boldly to the
lines, but a heavy and well directed fire from the galleys threw the front of the
column into confusion. The places of those who fell being instantly supplied by
others, it still moved on until it reached a redoubt, where the contest became
more fierce and desperate. Captain Tawse fell in defending the gate of his re
doubt, with his sword plunged in the body of the third assailant whom he had
slain with his own hand, and a French and an American standard were for an in
stant planted on the parapet, but the assailants, after sustaining the enemy's fire
fifty-five minutes, were ordered to retreat. Of the French, 637, and of the continentals
and militia, 241 were killed or wounded. Immediately after this unsuccessful as
sault, the militia almost universally went to their homes, and Count D'Estaing, re-
embarking his troops and artillery, left the continent.
The following inscriptions are from monuments in the ancient burial
ground in Savannah, within the limits of the city:
Consecrated to the memory of DOCTR. NOBLK WIMBERLKY JONES, who died January 9th,
1805. He was born in England, came over with General Oylethorpe, in the year 1733, at the
first settlement of this state. He served as cadet officer in Oglethorpe's regiment during
the wars with the Spaniards and Indians. At that period acquired his professional education,
afterward, under the immediate direction of his father, Dr. Noble Jones, the friend, com
panion and fellow laborer of Oglethorpe. He was among the earliest and most stren
uous asserters of the Liberties of his adopted country, and filled not only the professional
but the most important civil departments, with much honor to himself, and the highest
benefit and satisfaction to the community. The warm Friend, the patient, judicious and
successful Physician, the firm Patriot, the most affectionate Husband and Parent, and hum
ble and sincere Christian. In the midst of usefulness and vigorous old age, he died, as he
had lived, without fear and reproach. This monument has been erected by the filial grati
tude of his surviving son, as a tribute to virtue.
SIR PATRICK HOUSTOUN, Baronet, President of His Majesty's Council of Georgia, died
February, 1762, aged 64. Lady Houstoun, his widow, died 26th of February, 1775, aged 60.
This tablet records the death of MAJOR JOHN SERBIAN, who departed this life at Savan
nah, November 6, 1815, in the 56th year of his age. In early youth he drew his sword in
defence of his country, and served with reputation in the war of the revolution. He was
an upright citizen, and exemplary in all the relations of social life. His disconsolate wife
and afflicted children have erected this tribute to his memory, in humble hope that he
rests in peace in the bosom of his Heavenly Father.
To the memory of APOLLOS G. HARRISON, teacher in the Savannah Academy, native of
Princeton, New Jersey, who died 23d of April, 1815, aged 21 years. This stone is erected
by his Female scholars : the testimony of their esteem ; the token of their friendship ; the
merit of his worth.
Calm shall he slumber in this dark repose
'Till the last morn his orient beams disclose ;
Then, when the great Arch-angel's potent sound,
Shall echo thro' Creation's ample round —
Wak'd from the sleep of Death, he will survey
The opening splendors of eternal day.
HENRY KOLLOCK, D. D., pastor, of the Independent Presbyterian church in the city of
Savannah, a most learned and faithful expounder of the Gospel. For Virtue, Eloquence,
Science and Letters, widely distinguished. Long conversant with men and things, ho for
got nothing but injuries; and, leaving behind him a bright example of Christian charity,
yielded up his spirit to the Lord, amid the tears of the whole city, on the 29th of December,
1819, aged 41 years. This memorial is erected by his grateful congregation.
Sacred to the memory of DENNIS L. COTTINEAU DE KERLOUGEN, native of Nantes (France),
formerly a lieutenant in his late most Christian majesty's Navy, Knight of the Royal and
Military order of St. Louis, Capt. commanding a ship-of-war of the United States during their
revolution, and a member of the Cincinnati Society. Obit. Novr. 8th, 1808, M. 63 years.
And, also, of Achilles J. M. Cottineau de Kerlougen, his son, July llth, 1812, M. 22 years.
746
GEORGIA.
Sacred to the memory of JOHN P. ARNAUD, who died on the 4th of Sept., 1834, in the 83d
year of his age. He was a native of France, and one of those brave volunteers from that
country who fought and bled to achieve and establish the Independence of the United States.
Sacred to the memory of LUCY C. SWARBRECK, who died in the 4th year of her age.
Rest, here, blest daughter, wait thy Master's will,
Then rise, unchanged, and be an angel still.
The following inscription is from a monument in the new burial ground
near the south-western part of the city :
Sacred to the memory of DR. LEVI MYERS, set. 56, a skillful and humane physician, be
nevolent in his feelings to all mankind, firm in his friendship, affectionate as a parent and
a husband, dutiful as a son, kind as a master And of his wife, Mrs. Frances Myers,
aet. 44 And of their daughters, Elizabeth, aet. 22 ; Hesse, aged 20 ; Theodosia, get.
17 And of their son, Julian, sat. 13, were, with their domestics, swept away from
their summer residence at North Inlet, in the destructive gale of the 27th September,
1822. The ashes of the mother repose here; the overwhelming ocean retain the rest. All
their pure spirits dwell in the bosom of their God. Mysterious are the ways of Heaven 1
To bow submissively to its decrees is the duty of man.
" The vicinity of Savannah, though flat, is exceedingly picturesque along
the many pleasant drives, and by the banks of the river and its tributary
brooks, leading everywhere through
noble avenues of the live oaks, the
bay, the magnolias, the orange, and
^illaE§iii8^raii^s. ; • ;, a hundred other beautiful evergreen
trees, shrubs and vines. The ceme
tery of Buonaventura, close by, is a
wonderful place. It was originally
a private estate, laid out in broad
avenues, radiating from a central
point in all directions. These ave
nues are now grand forest aisles,
lined with live oaks of immense size,
their dense leafage mingling over
head, and the huge lateral branches
trailing upon the ground with their
own and the superadded weight of
the heavy festoons of the pendan!
Spanish moss. A beautiful, solemi,
home for the dead are the shades of these green forest aisles. The endless
cypress groves of the 'silent cities' by the Bosphorous are not more irn<
pressive than the intricate web of these still forest walks."
Jaspers Spring, the scene of a brave and famous exploit of the war time
lies near the Augusta road, two miles and a half from the city westward.
The spring is a fountain of purest water, in the midst of a marshy spot, cov
ered with rank shrubbery, at the edge of a forest of oak and pine trees. The
interest of the place is in its association only. The exploit, as told by
Weems, in his Life of Marion, was one of the most attractive of revolution
ary incidents to the youth, of a former generation, by whom Weems' half
romance and half fact biographies were universally read. We copy here the
story, as told by the enthusiastic biographer, from the narrative given him
by Horry:
In the spring of 1779, Marion and myself, says Horry, were sent with our com
mands to Purysburg, to reinforce General Lincoln, who was there on his way to
attack the British in Savannah, which a few months before had fallen into their
hands. As the Count D'Estaing, who was expected to co-operate in this aflair, had
JASPER'S SPRING.
The spot of the rescue of the prisoners.
GEORGIA. 747
not yet arrived, General Lincoln thought it advisable to entrench and wait for
him.
While we were lying at Purysburg, a couple of young men of our regiment
achieved an act of generosity and courage which, in former days, would have laid
the ground-work of a heroic romance. One of the actors in this extraordinary
play was the brave Sergeant Jasper, whose name will forever be dear to the friends
of American liberty.
Jasper had a brother who had joined the British, and held the rank of sergeant
in their garrison at Ebenezer. Never man was truer to his country than Jasper,
yet was his heart so warm that he loved his brother, though a tory, and actually
went over to see him. His brother was exceedingly alarmed at sight of him, lest
he should be seized and hung up at once as a spy, for his name was well known to
many of the British officers. But Jasper begged him not to give himself much
trouble on that head, for, said he, " I am no longer an American soldier."
" Well, thank God for that, William," replied his brother, giving him a hearty
shako by the hand. " And now, only say the word, my boy, and here is a commis
sion for you, with regimentals and gold to boot, to jig tit for his majesty."
Jasper shook his head and observed, that though there was but little encourage
ment to fight for his country, yet he could not find it in his heart to fight against
her. And there the conversation ended.
After staying with his brother some two or three days, inspecting and hearing
all he could, he took leave, and, by a round about, returned to camp and told
General Lincoln all that he had seen. Having wasted several weeks longer of
tiresome idleness, and no news of the French fleet, Jasper took it into his head to
make another trip to Ebenezer. On this occasion he did not, as before, go alone,
but took with him his particular friend, Sergeant Newton, son of an old Baptist
preacher, and a young fellow, for strength and courage, just about a good match
for Jasper himself. He was received, as usual, with great cordiality by his brother,
to whom he introduced his friend Newton, and spent several days in the British
fort, without giving the least alarm. On the morning of the third day his brother
had some bad news to tell him. "Aye! what is it?" he asked; what is it?"
" Why," replied his brother, " here are some ten or a dozen American prisoners,
brought in this morning, as deserters from Savannah, whither they are to be sent
immediately ; and, from what I can learn, it will be apt to go hard with them, for it
seems they have all taken the king's bounty." " Let's see em," said Jasper; " let's
see 'em !" So his brother took him and Newton to see them. And indeed it was a
mournful sight to behold them, where they sat, poor fellows! all hand-cuffed, on
the ground. But all pity of them was forgot soon as the eye was turned to a far
more doleful sight hard by. which was a young woman, wife of one of the prison
ers, with her child, a sweet little boy of about five years old. The name of this
lady was Jones. Her humble garb showed her to be poor, but her deep distress,
and sympathy for her unfortunate husband, showed that she was rich in that pure
conjugal love that is more precious than all gold.
She generally sat on the ground opposite to her husband, with her little boy
leaning on her lap, and her coal black hair spreading in long neglected tresses on
her neck and bosom. And thus in silence she sat, a statue of grief, sometimes
with her eyes hard fixed upon the earth, like one lost in thought, sighing and groan
ing the while as if her heart would burst ; then starting, as from a reverie, she
would dart her eager eyes, red with weeping, on her husband's face, and there
would gaze, with looks so piercing sad, as though she saw him struggling in the
halter, herself a widow and her son an orphan. Straight her frame would begin
to shake with the rising agony, and her face to change and swell ; then, with eyes
swimming in tears, she would look around upon us all, for pity and for help, with
cries sufficient to melt the heart of a demon; while the child, seeing his father's
hands fast bound and his mother weeping, added to the distressing scene by his
artless cries and tears.
The brave are always tender-hearted. It was so with Jasper and Newton, two of
the most undaunted spirits that ever lived. They walked out in the neighboring
wood. The tear was in the eye of both. Jasper first broke silence. " Newton,"
said he, " my days have been but few, but T believe their course is nearly done.'
748 GEORGIA.
"Why so, Jasper ?" " Why, I feel," said he, "that I must rescue these poor pris
oners or die with them ; otherwise, that woman and her child will haunt me to my
grave." "Well, that is exactly what I feel too," replied Newton; "and here is
my hand and heart to stand by you, my brave friend, to the last drop. Thank God,
a man can die but once, and there is not so much in this life that a man need be
afraid to leave it, especially when he is in the way of his duty." The two friends
then embraced with great cordiality, while each read in the other's countenance
that immortal fire which beams from the eyes of the brave, when resolved to die or
conquer in some glorious cause. Immediately after breakfast, the prisoners
were sent on for Savannah, under a guard of a sergeant and corporal, with eight
men. They had not been gone long before Jasper, acccompanied by his friend
Newton, took leave of his brother, and set out on some errand to the upper coun
try. They had scarcely, however, got out of sight of Ebenezer before they struck
into the piny woods, and pushed hard after the prisoners and their guard, whom
they closely dogged for several miles, anxiously watching an opportunity to make
a blow. But, alas ! all hopes of that sort seemed utterly extravagant ; for what
could give two men a chance to contend against ten, especially when there was
found no weapon in the hands of the two ; while the ten, each man was armed
with his loaded musket and bayonet But, unable to give up their countrymen,
our heroes still followed on.
About two miles from Savannah there is a famous spring, generally called the
Spa, well known to travelers, who often turn in hither to quench their thirst.
"Perhaps," said Jasper, "the guard may stop there." Then hastening on by a
near cut through the woods, they gained the Spa, as their last hope, and their con
cealed themselves among the bushes that grew abundantly around the spring.
Presently the mournful procession came in sight, headed by the sergeant, who,
on coming opposite the spring, ordered a halt. Hope sprung afresh in our heroes'
bosoms, strong throbbing, too, no doubt, with great alarms, for "it was a fearful
odds." The corporal, with his guard of four men. conducted the prisoners to the
spring, while the sergeant, with the other four, having ground their arms near the
road, brought up the rear. The prisoners, wearied with their long walk, were per
mitted to rest themselves on the earth. Poor Mrs. Jones, as usual, took her seat
opposite to her husband, and her little boy, overcome by fatigue, fell asleep in her
lap. Two of the corporal's men were ordered to keep guard, and the other two to
give the prisoners drink out of their canteens. These last approached the spring,
where our heroes lay concealed, and, resting their muskets against a pine tree,
dipped up water, and, having drank themselves, turned away, with replenished
canteens, to give the prisoners, also. " Now, Newton, is our time!" said Jasper.
Then bursting, like two lions, from their concealment, they snatched up the two
muskets that were rested against the pine, and, in an instant, shot down the two
soldiers that kept guard. And now the question was, who should first get the
muskets that had just fallen from the hands of the slain; for by this time the ser
geant and corporal, a couple of brave Englishmen, recovering from their momentary
panic, had sprung and seized upon the muskets ; but, before they could use them,
the strong, swift-handed Americans, with clubbed guns, leveled each at the head
of his brave antagonist the final blow. The tender bones of the skull gave way
beneath the furious strokes, and, with wide scattered blood and brains, down they
sunk, pale and quivering, to the earth without a groan. Then snatching up the
guns which had thus, a second time, fallen from the hands of the slain, they flew
between the surviving enemy and ordered them to surrender, which they instantly
did.
Having called the prisoners to them, they quickly, with the point of their bayo
nets, broke off their hand-cuffs and gave each of them a musket.
At the commencement of the fray, poor Mrs. Jones, half frightened to death, had
fallen to the ground in a swoon, with her little son piteously screaming over her.
But when she came to herself, and saw her husband and friends around her, all
freed from their fetters and well armed, she looked and behaved like one frantic
with joy. She sprung to her husband's bosom, and, with her arms around his
neck, sobbed out, "Oh, bless God! bless God! my husband is safe; my husband is
not hung yet." Then snatching up her child, and straining him to her soul as if
GEORGIA.
749
sent to save ray husband?"
Directing her eyes to Jasper and Newton, where they stood like two youthful
Sampsons, in the full flowing of their locks, she ran and fell on her knees before
them, and, seizing their hands, kissed and pressed them to her bosom, crying out
vehemently, " dear angels ! dear angels ! God bless you! God Almighty bless you
forever!"
Then instantly, for fear of being overtaken by the enemy, our heroes snatched
the arms and regimentals of the slain, and with their friends and captive foes, re-
crossed the Savannah, and in safety rejoined our army at Purysburg, to the inex
pressible astonishment and joy of us all.
View of the City Hall and Monument, at Aitf/usta.
AUGUSTA, the second city of Georgia in population and importance, is on
the S. W. bank of the Savannah River, 92 miles N. E. from Milledgeville;
120 N. N. W. from Savannah, and 136 N. W. from Charleston. The city
is regularly laid out and well built, with broad streets which intersect each
other at right angles, and several of them are beautifully ornamented with
shade trees. The principal business street is very wide, a mile or more in
length, compactly built on both sides with elegant shops, stores, and other
buildings for its whole extent. Augusta enjoys great facilities for commer
cial intercourse, being connected by railroads with Savannah and Charleston,
and also with, the interior by several railroads which center here. It also
has a steamboat communication with Savannah. Another cause of its pros
perity, is the Augusta canal constructed in 1845. It is nine miles in length,
and brings the waters of the Savannah River, some 35 or 40 feet above the
level of the city. By the water power thus obtained, factories, shops, etc.,
have been put in successful operation. Among the prominent public build
ings are the City Hall, with the monument in front, the Masonic Hall.
750 GEORGIA.
the Richmond Academy, and the Medical College. Population is about
15,000.
Augusta was laid out by the trustees of G-eorgia, in 1735. It was named
by Gen. Oglethorpe, in honor of one of the royal princesses. In 1736, a
small garrison was placed here in a stockade fort, for the protection of the
settlers : warehouses were built, and quite an extensive trade was opened
with the Indians. Fort Augusta became a general resort for the Indian tra
ders ; and there, and at Fort Moore, on the bluff on Sand-bar ferry, all the
Indian treaties were held down to the year 1750. In 1751, several Quaker
families settled here and at a place called Quaker Springs.
When the British attacked Savannah, in March 1776, the legislature, a
majority of whom were in favor of the American cause, adjourned to Augus
ta, where the people were generally friendly. On the capture of Savannah,
in 1779, when the legislature was broken up, the president of the executive
council ordered an election of legislators, who were to assemble at Augusta.
This town now became the center of the republican power in Georgia. Geo.
Walton, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, was chosen
governor in 1777, notwithstanding Sir James Wright had re-established roy
al government in the province. William Glascock was chosen speaker, and
the legislature transacted business without reference to the existence of any
other power in the state.
After the fall of Savannah, the British general, Prevost, ordered Col. Camp
bell, with 2,000 regulars and loyalists, to advance upon Augusta. Little
opposition could be made to their progress, and Campbell took possession of
Augusta, Jan. 29, 1779. The whigs who could leave with their families,
crossed the Savannah into Carolina. The oath of allegiance to the British
king was everywhere administered ; the habitations of those who had fled
into Carolina, were consumed ; and Georgia seemed, for the time, to be en
tirely subdued.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Augusta
cemetery :
JOHN MARTIN, a soldier of the Revolution, died in Augusta 14th February, 1843, aged 105
Sjars, He served in the Cherokee war of 1755, was wounded in the head with a tomahawk,
e served through the whole Revolutionary war with honor. A tribute of respect by the
ladies of Augusta.
Here repose the mortal relics of Dr. EDWARD BRTJX, whose life was broken off unfinished,
in the midst of usefulness, on the 12th day of Oct. A. D., 1820, in the 31st year of his age.
He was born in St. Domingo, received the rudiments of his education in France: studied
medicine at the University of Philadelphia, and served as a Surgeon in the army of the
United States during the late war with Great Britain and America. Admired for his genius,
respected for his acquirements, and esteemed for his virtues, he inspired confidence as a
Physician, and won affection as a friend. The Medical College bear witness to his talents,
and a whole city attests that he lived beloved, and died lamented.
JAMES D. MACKIE, M. D., born in this city April 13, 1818. Died of Yellow Fever, Nov.
16,1854. Amicw Humani Generis. Erected by his friends and fellow-citizens, to express
their regard to his memory, and to perpetuate the recollection of his professional devotion,
humane conduct, and efficient services during the epidemic of 1854.
MACON city is situated on both sides of the Ocmulgee River, 32 miles from
Milledgeville; 191 from Savannah; 165 from Augusta; 100 S. E. from At
lanta, and 300 from Charleston, S. C., with all of which places it is con
nected by railroads. Population is about 10,000. It is built principally on
GEORGIA.
751
the western side of the river. A great amount of cotton is shipped from
this place by steam and other boats on the Ocmulgee. and by means of vari
ous railroads it has become the center of an active trade. The city is well
built, and contains many superior residences. The Wesleyan Female Col
lege is located in this place, and enjoys a high reputation. This institution
was opened to the public, Jan. 1839, under the title of the "Georgia Female
College" and is the oldest institution of the kind in the United States — per
haps the oldest in the world. It is situated upon a high hill overlooking
the city. The Southern Botanico-Medical, or Reform Medical College, is located
in the city. It has received two separate endowments from the state, and now
bids fair to be one of the most flourishing medical institutions at the south.
Eastern view of Macon,
The view shows the appearance of Macon, as it is entered from East M aeon, on the Central Railroad
from Augusta. The railroad bridge over the Ocmulgee River, with the Court House, Jail, and Gas-works,
are seen on the left ; the City Bridge, the Messrs. Wood's Steam Factory, the spires of the Presbyterian
and Episcopal churches on the right, and the Macon Female College in the distance on the extreme right.
Macon has had a very rapid growth since 1822, when there was but a sin
gle cabin on its site: it was named after the Hon. Nathaniel Macon. The
first lots were sold in the place in 1823. Messrs. Ingersoll and Ross erected
the first framed building. The vicinity of Macon still abounds with Indian
mounds, which have always been objects of curiosity to travelers. The
most noted is the large mound on the east side, about half a mile below the
bridge.
The following is a western view of Fort Hawkins, upward of a mile eastward
of the court-house in Macon, just out of the corporation limits of the city.
The lower story or magazine is built of stone. There are two stories above
this, each of which is pierced with thirteen port holes for musketry on each
side. It is now the property of Mr. Woolfolk, an aged gentleman of wealth
and respectability, whose residence is near by, and who has a number of log
houses on his premises, which were formerly used as barracks. "Fort Haw
kins was built for a protection against the Indians about the years 1805-G,
and was a place of considerable importance during the war of ^1812 and the
subsequent Indian wars. No garrison has been stationed here since 1819, the
752
GEORGIA.
time of the first settlement of Newtown (now forming part of Macon), on the
east bank of the Ocmulgee, three-quarters of a mile from the fort."
This fort was named after Col. Ben
jamin Hawkins, a revolutionary patriot,
who was born in North Carolina in
1754. He was educated at Prince
ton, and becoming a personal friend of
Washington, acted as an interpreter in
his intercourse with the French offi
cers of his army. He served North
Carolina as representative in both houses
of congress. In 1795 Washington ap
pointed him agent for superintending
all the Indians south of the Ohio, an
office he held until his death, in 1816.
"Although a man of wealth, he took up
his residence among the Creeks, and
devoted all his energies to their im
provement. He established a large farm,
built mills, houses, wagons, and made
implements of all sorts suited to the
demands of the country. The celebrated French general Moreau, when an
exile in America, paid a visit to Col. Hawkins at the agency. After leaving
him he said he was the most remarkable man he had met in America. The
Georgia Historical Society have published several volumes of his manu
scripts."
FORT HAWKINS.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in Rose Hill ceme
tery, about half a mile above the city, on the banks of the Ocmulgee, which
rise here abruptly to the hight of 140 feet above the bed of the river. The
location is thickly wooded, and its uneven surface, tastefully laid out, pre
senting a scene of uncommon beauty:
Sacred to the memory of CHARLES BULLOCK, first senator in the state legislature from Bibb
county, Ga.; died Sept. 10, 1829, aged 45 years.
OLIVER HILLHOUSE FRINGE and MARY R. PRINCE, who perished in the wreck of the steam
ship Home, Oct. 9, 1837. "They were lovely and pleasant in their lives, and in their death
they were not divided." This tablet is erected to perpetuate the beloved memory of our pa
rents by their bereaved and sorrowing children.
JAMES GODDARD, born at Athol, Mass., Jan. 22, 1800. Removed to Georgia in 1821 ; died
at Greenfield, Mass., Oct. 19, 1846. Erected by the citizens of Macon as a testimonial of
their appreciation of his public spirit and enterprise.
Here lie the remains of JOHN HOWARD, a native of Onslow Co., North Carolina. Born on
the 5th of March, 1792. He was for nineteen years a minister of the Methodist Episcopal
Church, characterized by a burning zeal in the cause of his Divine Master. His ministra
tions were eminently successful in the salvation of his fellow men. As a minister, husband,
father and citizen, he was exemplary, discharging his duties with fidelity, and adorning the
character of the Christian profession. HE FELL in the prime of his days, and in the zenith
of his usefulness, on the 22d of Aug., 1836, aged 44 yrs. and 6 mo. The God whom he
served did not desert him in this last conflict, but enabled him to know that while the earthly
tabernacle was dissolving that he was passing to a house not made with hands eternal in the
heavens. This monument of one well known and sincerely beloved is reared by the affection
of the church in this city, to whom he ministered in holy things for many years, and who
witnessed his triumphant end. He died in the full assurance of a blissful immortality
surrounded by a weeping family and mourning church.
GEORGIA.
753
MILLEDGEVILLE, the capitol of Georgia, is on the W. side of Oconee
River at the head of navigation, 189 miles N. W. of Savannah, and 642 S.
W. from Washington. The city is built on an uneven surface, and is laid out
with streets 100 feet wide, crossing each other at right angles. The central
square contains the state house, arsenal, and the four churches of the place.
The state house is a gothic structure erected at an expense of about $120,000,
and contains the portraits of Gen. Oglethorpe and other prominent men of
ancient times.
The city is in the midst of a fine cotton growing region, and is connected
by a railroad with the Central Railroad at Gordon, about 18 miles distant.
The state penitentiary and state lunatic asylum are situated here. Popula
tion about 3,000. The town was named after Gov. John Milledge, and was
made a city in 1836. The legislature first held its session here in 1807.
Western view of the State House and other buildings in Milledgeville.
The view is from near the residence of R. M. Orme, Esq. : the State House is seen on the right; the
Milledgeville and McComb's Hotels on the left. The Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist, and Episcopal
churches appear in the central part.
Among the early settlers were Maj. John Howard, Herbert Reynolds, Gen.
John Scott, Gen. Jett Thomas, Capt. Augustine Harris, Col. Abner Ham
mond, Maj. Thomas H. Kenan, Jesse Sanford, Lazarus Battle, Hines Holt,
Geo. R. Clayton, Dr. T. Bird, Col. Z. Lamar, C. Malone, Win. and Archy
Devereaux, W. I). Jarrett, T. Napier, D. Fluker, A. Greene and R. White.
Oglethorpe University is situated on the line of the railroad, in some
what of a retired and pleasant spot, about two miles south from Milledge
ville. This institution is under the government of the Presbyterian Church,
represented by the Synod of South Carolina and Georgia. The College
commenced operations in Jan., 1838. The main college is of brick, two
stories high besides the basement; the central part contains a fine chapel.
754 GEORGIA.
On each side of the campus there is a row of dormitories of one story,
for the accommodation of the students.
Eastern view of Oglethorpe University, Midway,
The following inscriptions are from monuments in the Milledgeville
cemetery :
Beneath this Tablet reposes all that is mortal of HENRY DENISON, who died in Milledge
ville Oct. 31, A. D. 1819, aged 23 years and 4 mo. Son of the Hon. Gilbert Denison, and
Huldah his wife, of Brattleboro, Vermont. Reader 1 Art thou a Parent? think upon thine
own offspring, and sympathise with them : Art thou a good Son? mingle thy tears with his
Parents, for he was the best of sons : A Brother? Mourn, for he was the kindest of broth
ers ; A Friend? Sorrow, for he was the firmest of friends: Does the Muse inspire thee?
Grieve, for he was of thy kindred: Art thou manly and upright? Bemoan his early fate :
for he was thy companion ', But if thou art a Christian, rejoice! I ! for Henry "is not dead
but sleepeth !"
Sacred to the memory of Lucius Q C. LAMAK, Judge of the Superior Court of the Ocmul-
gee Circuit, who during a brief service of five years discharged the duties of that high office
with probity, firmness, assiduity and unquestionable reputation. The devoted love of his
family, the ardent attachment of personal friends, the admiration of the bar, and the uni
versal approbation of his enlightened administration of justice, attest the goodness and em
inence of one arrested by death too early in the bright and useful career in which he had
been placed by his native state. Born July 15, 1797, died July 4, 1834.
In memory of ROBERT R. WASHINGTON, who was born in England, 10th Dec., 1758, and died
in this city 29th July, 1835, aged 76 years. For the last thirty years of his life he was a
zealous and efficient member of the Methodist E. Church. His death is a calamity on the
church, and the cause of philanthropy mourns, for the heart of benevolence is still. His
family who record his virtues, although they bemoan their loss, are consoled by the assur
ance that he rests in peace. "Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord, they rest from
their labors, and their works do follow them."
In memory of DAVID BRYDIE MITCHELL, senator for the county of Baldwin and former
governor of Georgia, born near Muthil, Perthshire, Scotland, 22d Oct., 1766, died in Mil
ledgeville, Georgia, 22d April, 1837. This stone is erected by vote of the Legislature of
Georgia.
In memory of MARGARET ALEXANDER, who was born in Mecklenberg, N. C., Aug. 13,
1771, and died in Milledgeville, Geo., July 20, 1848. She was a lineal descendant of the
great Douglass of Scotland. Intellectual, cultivated, disinterested, affectionate, tender,
good, she sleeps to wake again.
GEORGIA.
755
ATHENS is a flourishing town in Clarke county, on the west side of Oconee
River, 6-4 miles N. W. of Milledgeville and 92 W. N. W. of Augusta. Pop
ulation about 5,000. It is situated at the terminus of the Athens Branch
Railroad, in a healthy region of country. Since the construction of the rail
road the town has increased rapidly, and has become the market for an ex
tensive cotton-growing region. There are several cotton factories in Athens
and its immediate vicinity which add much to the business of the place.
The Franklin College was incorporated in 1788 as the University of
Georgia. It was established at Athens in 1802, and its original endowment
was 30,000 acres of land. It languished for want of funds until 1816, when
the lands were sold, and the proceeds, amounting to $100,000, were invested
in productive stocks. The college has forty -four acres of ground on which
the buildings are erected, which were set apart for their use by the legisla
ture. The philosophical apparatus is very extensive, the chemical laboratory
is ample, and the cabinet of minerals large. The library contains upward of
8,000 volumes. Mr. Josiah Meigs, a professor in Yale College, Conn., was
the first president; he was succeeded by Dr. Brown, of Columbia College,
of S. C. Dr. Brown resigned in 1816, and was succeeded by Dr. Finley, of
New Jersey, who in turn was succeeded by Dr. Waddell, and in 1829 by Dr.
Church, of Vermont.
South-eastern view of Athens.
The above engraving shows a south-eastern view of the place as it is approached from the terminus of
the railroad. The new bridge over the Oconee, somewhat novel in its construction, is seen in the fore
ground. It was completed Dec., 1856. The rocky road going up to the central part of the town is shown
beyond on the right. The College or University buildings are situated on the elevated ground seen on
the left.
Atlanta is an exceedingly flourishing town, a great railroad center, situated
at the point of connection of the Western and Atlantic, the Macon and West
ern, and Georgia railroads, 101 miles N. W. from Macon, 171 W.^of Augusta,
and 291 from Nashville. Its site is elevated and healthy, and it is a place of
great activity in business. It was laid out in 1845, and 1847 it was incorpo
rated as a city. Population about 12,000.
48
756 GEORGIA.
The famous Rock or Stone Mountain, a place of great resort, is near the
line of the Georgia Railway, 15 miles east of Atlanta. The mountain stands
alone in a comparatively level region, and covers 1,000 acres. Its circum
ference is about six miles, and its hight above the sea 2,230 feet. On its
summit is an observatory for the use of visitors. The crown of the mountain
was once surrounded by an ancient fortification, the work of the mound
builders; its ruins are yet visible.
South view of part of Columbus.
The vicAV shows the appearance of Columbus as seen from the bridge over the Chattahoochee River. The
cotton and other mills of the Eagle and Howard Manufacturing Companies are seen in the central part. On
the left, in the distance, appears the railroad connecting Macon. and Montgomery, Ala. The gas-worka
are seen on the right.
COLUMBUS is a flourishing city on the east bank of the Chattahoochee
River, 128 miles W. S. W. from Milledgeville and 290 W. of Savannah. It
is at the head of steamboat navigation, 375 miles above Appalachicola, on the
bay. Steamboats ply between this place and New Orleans, and the exporta
tion of cotton constitutes a large business. A handsome bridge across the
Chattahoochee connects the city with the village of Girard, in the state of
Alabama. There is a succession of falls or rapids in the river immediately
above Columbus by which the stream descends one hundred and ten feet in
the distance of four miles, affording a water power for manufacturing pur
poses of great value. This place was laid out in 1828. The city extends
more than a mile in the direction of the river, and about half a mile toward
the interior. Population about 10,000.
Mr. Chapman was the first settler in this place. In 1827 he kept a kind
of an Indian store on the bank of the river. Messrs. Steward and Fountain
erected the first grist-mill at the falls. Nicholas Howard kept the first tavern.
The first house of worship was erected by the Methodists. Thomas J. Hand
was the first school teacher; he also officiated as Methodist minister. Drs.
Childer, Kennedy and Clifton were the first physicians. Among the first set
tlers were Mr. Shorter, Alfred Iverson and Walter T. Colquitt (member of
congress) ; these were the first lawyers. Mirabeau B. Lamar, afterward so
distinguished in Texan history, was the first printer of the Enquirer of this
place. Gen. Sowell Woolfolk, who fell in a duel with Camp, a lawyer,
GEORGIA. 757
was one of the early settlers. Mr. Camp was afterward killed by a shot from
a store house door by one of Gen. Woolfolk's friends, who was subsequently
tried and acquitted of the crime.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Columbus
cemetery.
Erected as a tribute of love by his family to the memory of ELI S. SHORTER, who departed
this life Dec. 13, 1836, in the 44th year of his age. The eminent distinction of Judge
Shorter was founded on the happiest union of the social, kindly and intellectual qualities.
Profound and distinguished as a jurist, ardent as a friend and kind as a citizen, his name
will be long revered in the great circle of his acquaintance, and his memory be forever em
balmed in the hearts of his bereaved family. When this corruptible shall put on incorrup-
tion, and this mortal put on immortality, then shall be brought to pass the saying that is
written, death is swallowed up in victory.
"Header! the name, profession and age of him whose body lies beneath are of little im
portance, but it may be of great importance to you to know that by the grace of God he was
brought to look to the Lord Jesus, the only savior of sinners, and that this looking to Jesus
gave peace to the soul. Reader ! pray to God that you may be instructed in the gospel, and
be assured that God will give his Holy Spirit, the only teacher of true wisdom, to them that
ask him."— Dr. R. Sankey, 1844.
REV. THOMAS GOULBING, D. D. He was an able and faithful pastor, a skillful comforter
of the sick and afflicted ; eminently charitable, he was greatly beloved. After a long life
of successful labor in the ministry, he departed this life in faith and hope, ardent for the
crown of righteousness. In testimony of their affectionate regard to the memory of their
venerated pastor, a grateful people have erected this monument, and the tablet in the Pres
byterian Church. Born in Liberty Co., Geo., Mar. 14, 1786, ordained to the Gospel ministry
Jan. 1, 1816, fell asleep in Jesus, June 21, 1848. From his pulpit, after having expounded the
6?»d psalm, he passed in one short hour to that rest that remaineth to the people of God.
Him that overcometh will I make a pillar in the temple of my God, and he shall go no more
out. — Rev. iii, 6.
Dahlonega is a thriving village, capital of Lumpkin county, 141 miles W.
N. W. of Milledgeville. It is in the heart of the rich gold region of Georgia,
and the Indian name is Tau-lau-ne-ca, which signifies yellow money. Sev
eral important mines are in the vicinity. The village contains a branch of
the U. S. Mint, and about 1,500 inhabitants.
Social Circle is a thriving village on the Georgia Railroad, 120 miles west
of Augusta.
The mountain region of Georgia is highly picturesque. In the north-east
ern portion of the state are the beautiful falls of Toc-
coa and of Tallulah. Both of these are near Clarks-
ville, in Habersham county. The Toccoa falls are 186
feet in perpendicular descent. The cataracts of Tallulah
are in a deep gorge of the Blue Ridge, 1,000 feet in
depth. "The wild grandeur of this mountain gorge, and
the variety, number and magnificence of its cataracts
give it rank with the most imposing water-fall scenery
in the Union."
In Georgia are numerous medicinal springs. The
most prominent are Indian, in Butts county; Madison,
TOCCOA FALLS. in Madison county; Warm, in Merriweather county;
Sulphur, in Hall county; Rowland, in Cass county;
Red Sulphur, in Walker county j Thundering, in Upson county ; Powder, in
Oobb county.
768 GEORGIA.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
General James Edward Oglethorpe, who occupies so prominent a place in the
history of Georgia, was the son of Sir Theophilus Oglethorpe, and was born in
London, December 21, 1688. At the age of sixteen he was admitted a student of
Corpus Christi college, but he did not finish his studies, military life having more
charms for him than literary pursuits. The following inscription (the longest of
which we have any knowledge), on a tablet of marble in the Cranham church, gives
a sketch of his life :
Near this place lie the remains of JAMES EDWARD OGLETHORPE, Esq., who served under
Prince Eugene, and, in 1714, was Captain Lieutenant in the first troop of the Queen'a
Guards. In 1740 he was appointed Colonel of a Regiment to be raised for Georgia. In
1745 he was appointed Major-General; in 1747, Lieutenant-General ; and in 1760, General
of His Majesty's forces. In his civil station, he was very early conspicuous. He was chosen
Member of Parliament for Haslemere, in Surrey, in 1722, and continued to represent it un
til 1754. In the Committee of Parliament, for inquiring into the state of the jails, formed
25th of February, 1728, and of which he was Chairman, the active and persevering zeal of
his benevolence found a truly suitable employment, by visiting, with his colleagues of that
generous body, the dark and pestilential dungeons of the Prisons, which at that time dis
honoured the metropolis ; detecting the most enormous oppressions ; obtaining exemplary
punishment on those who had been guilty of such outrage against humanity and justice ;
and redressing multitudes from extreme misery to light and freedom. Of these, about
700, rendered, by long confinement for debt, strangers and helpless in the land of their
birth, and desirous of seeking an asylum in the wilds of America, were by him conducted
thither in 1732. He willingly encountered in their behalf a variety of fatigue and danger,
and thus became the founder of the Colony of Georgia ; a Colony which afterward set the
noble example of prohibiting the importation of slaves. This new establishment he stren
uously and successfully defended against a powerful attack of the Spaniards. In the year
in which he quitted England to found this settlement, he nobly strove to secure our true
national defence by sea and land — a free navy — without impressing a constitutional militia.
But his social affections were more enlarged than even the term Patriotism can express :
he was the friend of the oppressed negro ; no part of the globe was too remote, no interest
too unconnected or too much opposed to his own, to prevent the immediate succour of suf
fering humanity. For such qualities he received, from the ever memorable John, Duke of
Argyle, a full testimony, in the British Senate, to his military character, his natural gener
osity, his contempt of danger, and regard for the public. A similar encomium is perpetu
ated in a foreign language ; and, by one of our most celebrated Poets, his remembrance is
transmitted to posterity in lines justly expressive of the purity, the ardour, and the extent
of his benevolence. He lived till the 1st of July, 1785 ; a venerable instance to what a
duration a life of temperance and virtuous labor is capable of being protracted. His widow,
ELIZABETH, daughter of Sir Nathan Wright, of Cranham Hall, Bart., and only sister and
heiress of Sir Samuel Wright, Bart., of the same place, surviving, with regret, but with
due submission to Divine Providence, an affectionate husband, after an union of more than
forty years, hath inscribed to his memory these faint traces of his excellent character.
" Religion watches o'er his urn, And Fortitude in armor drest ;
And all the virtues bending mourn, Wisdom's gray locks, and Freedom join
Humanity with languid eye, The moral train to bless his shrine,
Melting for others' misery ; And pensive all, around his a.shes holy,
Prudence, whose hands a measure hold, Their last sad honors pay in order melan-
And Temperance, with a chain of gold; choly."
Fidelity's triumphant vest,
Tomochichi was the principal chief, or mico, or king, as the chiefs were called,
of a small band of Creeks and Yamasees who had located themselves on the high
land of Yamacraw, at or near where Savannah is now built. He was one of the
chiefs who welcomed Oglethorpe on his first arrival. When Oglethorpe sailed for
England, in May, 1734, he took with him Tomochichi and his wife, Scenawki, his
nephew, and five or six chiefs of the Creek nation. On their arrival they were
treated with much attention, and, being furnished with proper dresses, were intro
duced to his majesty George II. Tomochichi, after presenting the king with seve
ral eagle's feathers, which were considered by his nation as the most respectful
present they could send, delivered the following speech to his majesty :
" This day I see the majesty of your face, the greatness of your house, and the number
of your people. I am come for the good of the whole nation of the Creeks, to renew the
peace they had made long ago with the English. I am come orer in my old days ; and,
though I can not live to see any advantage to myself, I am come for the good of all the na
tions of the upper and lower Creeks, that they may be instructed in the knowledge of tho
GEORGIA.
English. These are the feathers of the eagle, the swiftest of birds, and who flieth all
around our nations. These feathers, are a sign of peace in our land, arid we have brought
them over to leave with you, great king, as a sign of everlasting peace. 0, great king !
whatsoever words you shall say unto me, I will tell them faithfully to all the kings of the
Creek nations."
Tomochichi died in 1739, at the age of ninety-seven, and was buried with mili
tary parade in the court-house square at Savannah.
George Walton, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Vir
ginia in 1740. He was bred a mechanic: about 1761, he emigrated to Georgia,
and began the practice of law. In
1776, he was sent to congress; in 1779,
was elected governor of Georgia ; in
1780, was again sent to congress. He
was afterward governor the second
time, also chief justice; and in 1798,
United States Senator. He died in 1804.
Button Gwinnett, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Eng
land, came to Georgia in 1772, and settled on St Catherine's Island. In the be
ginning of the revolutionary difficulties he was in doubt which course to take, but
the arguments of Dr. Lyman
Hall, with whom he was in-
timate, convinced him of the
justice of the American cause.
In February, 1776, the gene
ral assembly of Georgia elect
ed him a delegate to the con
tinental congress. In 1777
he was one of the members
of the convention which formed the constitution of Georgia, and, upon the death of
Mr. Bullock, he became governor of the state. He also filled several other offices.
Having an unfortunate controversy with General M'Intosh, he challenged him to
single combat. The duel was fought near Savannah, with pistols, at a distance of
twelve paces. Mr. Gwinnett was mortally wounded at the first fire, and perished
at the age of forty-five. He left a wife and several children, but they did not long
survive him.
Lyman Hall, a signer of the declaration of independence, was born in Con
necticut, and educated at Yale college. He at first made theology his study and
profession, but afterward studied
medicine. He removed to Dor-
ohester, South Carolina, but finally
, ^m came to Georgia and settled in
S } St. John's parish, now the county
{/ ^ of Liberty. The inhabitants of
this parish sent Dr. Hall as their
delegate to the continental congress, in which capacity he was admitted to a seat
in that body. Afterward Georgia, by her general assembly, determined to join the
other colonies. Dr. Hall, and Mr. Gwinnett, were sent as regular delegates
When the enemy took possession of Georgia, he was compelled to remove his fam
ily to the north. In 1782 he returned, and next year was elected governor of
Georgia. He afterward removed to the county of Burke, where he died in 1784,
in the sixty-third year of his age.
Lachlin M'Intosh was born in Scotland, in 1721. His father was at the head of
a branch of the clan M'Intosh, and came to Georgia with General Oglethorpe, in
1736, when Lachlin was nine years of age. His opportunities for education wore
limited, but his strong mind overcame many difficulties. He was of fine personal
appearance, and, when young, was considered the handsomest man in Georgia.
He was first appointed a colonel in the revolutionary army, and, afterward, a ^brig
adier -general. In consequence of military rivalry between him and Button Gwin
nett, a duel ensued, which resulted in the death of the latter. General M'Intosh
afterward commanded in the western department, and led an expedition against
760 GEORGIA.
the Indians. In 1779 he returned to Georgia, and was at the siege and fall of
Savannah. He was with General Lincoln at Cii&rleston, where he was made pris
oner. He died in Savannah, in 1806.
John Forsyth, an eminent statesmen, was born in Virginia, in 1780, and when
about four years of age removed with his father to Augusta. He was educated at
Princeton. He represented Georgia in both houses of congress, was governor of
the state from 1827 to 1829, was minister to Spain from 1819 to 1822, and was sec
retary of state under President Jackson, and, also, through all of Mr. Van Buren's
administration. He died in 1841. He was a man of superior abilities, and of
dignified and elegant manners.
William Harris Crawford, a distinguished statesman, was born in Virginia, in
1772. His father removed to Georgia when he was nine years old. He was edu
cated for the bar, and, from 1807 to 1813, was in the United States senate, when
he was appointed minister to France, and, in 1815, secretary of war. From 1817
to 1824 he was secretary of the treasury, in which latter year he was the candidate
of the democratic party for the presidency of the United States, but was defeated.
He died in 1834, leaving a high reputation for ability.
Duncan L. Clinch, a gallant officer of the United States army, entered the ser
vice as lieutenant from North Carolina, in 1808. In 1829 he was breveted a brig
adier-general, for ten years faithful service. He took a most distinguished part in
the Seminole war. At the battle of Withlacoochee, on the last day of the year
1835, he, with 225 soldiers, in one hour, drove 700 determined and ferocious savages
from their fastnesses, chastising them severely. In this action he showed the most
persevering bravery, and was personally in the hottest of the fight. Resigning his
commission, he was, from 1843 to 1845, representative in congress from tnis state.
He died at Macon in 1849.
John McPherson Berrian, an eminent statesman, was born in New Jersey, in
1781, and removed, when a child, to Georgia. From 1824 to 1829 he was in the
United States senate, when he took a seat as attorney-general in the cabinet of
President Jackson. He was again in the United States senate from 1840 to 1845,
where he officiated most of the time as chairman of the judiciary committee. He
was, also, in the senate from 1847 to 1852. He died in 1856, universally lamented.
He was considered one of the best and most distinguished and high-minded states
men in the country.
RICE.*
"Although nineteen twentieths of all the rice raised in the United States
is grown within a district of narrow limits, on the sea-coast of the Carolinas and
Georgia, the crop forms a not unimportant item among the total productions of the
country. The crop of 1849 was supposed to be more than two hundred and fifteen
million pounds, and the amount exported was equal, in value, to one third of all the
wheat and flour, and to one sixtn of all the vegetable food, of every kind, sent
abroad. The exportation of 1851 was exceeded in value, according to the Patent
Office Report, only by that of cotton, flour and tobacco. Rice is raised in limited
quantity in all of the southern states, and might be in some of the northern.
In Louisiana and the Mississippi valley, where the rice culture is at present very
limited, there are millions of acres of now unproductive wilderness admirably
adapted to its requirements, and here, 'it is a well known fact,' says a writer in De
Bow's Review, 'that the rice plantations, both as regards whites and blacks, are
more healthy than the sugar and cotton.' The only restriction, therefore, upon the
production of rice to a thousand fold greater extent than at present is the cost of
labor in the southern states.
Rice continues to be cultivated extensively on the coast of Georgia and the Car
olinas, notwithstanding the high price of labor which slavery and the demand for
cotton has occasioned, only because there are unusual facilities there for forming
plantations, in which, while the soil is exceedingly rich and easily tilled, and the
climate favorable, the ground may be covered at will with water, until nearly all other
*This article is abridged from one in Harper's Magazine by T. Addison Richards, and
from Olmsted's Seaboard Slave States.
GEORGIA.
761
plants are killed, so as to save much of the labor which would otherwise be neces
sary in the cultivation of the crop; and may as readily be drained, when the re
quirements of the rice itself make it desirable.
A large part of all the country next the coast, fifty miles or more in width, in
North and South Carolina and Georgia, is occupied by flat cypress swamps and
reedy marshes. That which is not so is sandy, sterile, and overgrown with pines
and only of any value for agriculture where, at depressions of the surface, vegetable
mold has been collected by the flow of rain water. The nearer we approach the
Sea the more does water predominate, till at length land appears only in islands or
capes; this is the so-called Sea Island region. Below all, however, there stretches
along the whole coast a low and narrow sand bar — a kind of defensive outwork of
the land, seldom inhabited except by lost Indians and runaway negroes, who sub
sist by hunting and fishing. There are upon it several government relief stations
and light-houses, far less frequent, alas! than skeleton hulks of old ships, which,
half buried — like victims of war — -in the sand, give sad evidence of the fury of the
sea, and of the firmness with which its onsets are received."
Rice is an aquatic plant, and in its general appearance is somewhat similar to
wheat. Its culture and preparation for market are exceedingly interesting. It
was at first cultivated, as it is at present in many kinds of the upland class, in
spots of low ground, dependent for moisture only upon the chance rains of heaven.
But at this day the legitimate soil and scene of its production is the rich loam of
the tide-water lands which lie
along the coasts; low enough,
level enough, and near enough to
the sea to be overflowed at the
pleasure of the planter by the
flood tides of the rivers, and yet
far enough from the coast to be
quite beyond the reach of the
salt-water, which would be even
more fatal to the crop than
would the absence of the tidal
flows.
Near the first of April it is
sown in rows of about three feet
apart, and by the first of June
it becomes from six to eight in
ches high. The weeds are then
taken out and tide-water ad
mitted, by means of sluices, from
some adjacent stream. The wa
ter is occasionally drawn off and
a fresh supply introduced. When
in blossom, the rice presents a
most beautiful, appearance, the
flowers seeming to float on the
surface of the water and per
fuming the air with a most deli
cious fragrance.
In September, when the wa
ving harvest rises considerably
above the water, it exhibits a cu
rious and very rich aspect. The
rice harvest commences early
in September. The water hav
ing been drawn off the field the
previous ebb-tide, the negroes
reap the rice with sickles. The
rice is neatly stacked in round thatched stacks. After the ordinary threshing and
cleaning from chaff, the rice still remains covered with a close, rough husk, which
HARVESTING RICE.
762
GEORGIA.
can only be removed by a peculiar machine, that lightly pounds it so as to crack
the husk without breaking the rice. Rice in the rough, 'that is, with the husk on,
is termed "paddy" an East Indian word. The usual crop is from thirty to sixty
bushels an acre, and it sells in Charleston and Savannah in the rough from eighty
cents to one dollar per bushel.
During the malarious season it is dangerous for any but negroes to remain over
night in the vicinity of the swamps or rice-fields. At this period even the overseers
generally retreat at night to adjacent pine-lands away from the deadly influence.
Negroes do not enjoy as good health as elsewhere ; even those born on the soil are
generally weakly and short-lived.*
Southern CaMn.-\
"We pass on now to a hasty peep at the special traits in the social life of the
whites on the rice plantations. The characteristic, under this head, which will
*A late traveler in the south illustrates the fatality of night exposure in the low country
of the rice plantations by the following anecdotes : "As to the degree of danger to others, 'I
would as Boon stand fifty feet from the best Kentucky rifleman and be shot at by the hour
as to« spend a night on my plantation in summer,' a Charleston gentleman said to me. And
the following two instances of the deadly work it sometimes does were mentioned to me by
another: A party of six ladies and gentlemen went out of town to spend a day at the man
sion of A rice-planter, on an island. By an accident to their boat, their return before night
was prevented, and they went back and shut themselves within the house, had fires made,
around which they sat all night, and took every other precaution to guard against the mi-
a.sma. Nevertheless, four of them died from its effects within a week, and the other two
suffered severely. .Two brothers owned a plantation, on which they had spent the winter.
One of them, as summer approached, was careful to go to another residence every night ;
the other delayed to do so until it was too late. One morning he was found to be ill ; a
physician could not be procured until late in the afternoon, by which time his recovery was
hopeless. The sick man besought his brother not to hazard his own life by remaining with
him ; and he was obliged, before the sun set, to take the last farewell, and leave him with
the servants, in whose care, in the course of the night, he died."
|"In the better class of cabins the roof is usually built with a curve, so as to project eight
or ten feet'beyond the log wall ; and a part of this space, exterior to the logs, is inclosed
GEORGIA.
763
first strike the stranger, and, for a while, most disagreeably, is, perhaps, the gen
eral disregard and disdain of order and comfort in the style and appointments of
the residences even of the wealthiest of the people. He will wonder when
he visits friends here whose accomplished manners and refined tastes have
almost shamed the elegance of his lavishly adorned drawing-rooms at the North,
to find them living in the humblest of wooden, perchance of log, houses, only half
finished outside, and not at all within; often carpetless even in the parlors, and
seldom with any other furniture to speak of; no trace of the rich curtains, the
sumptuous sofas, the gorgeous picture-frames, or of the thousand and one dainty
household gods, so carefully gathered and treasured, and so great a part of the
pleasure of his own home. He may be disposed at first to set this peculiarity
down to the indolence and carelessness, or to the improvidence of the people, and
perhaps some of it may go that way; but by-and-by he will more truly account
Planter's Mansion.
for it by the nature and circumstances of the case. As he begins to feel at home,
to discover the new pleasures at his command, and to fall into the way and spirit
with boards, making an additional small room ; the remainder forms an open porch. The
whole cabin is often elevated on four corner-posts, two or three feet from the ground, so
that the air may circulate under it. The fire-place is built at the end of the house, of sticks
and clay, and the chimney is carried up outside, and often detached from the log- walls; but
the roof is extended at the gable, until in a line with its outer side. The porch has a railing
in front, and a wide shelf at the end, on which a bucket of water, a gourd and hand-basin
are usually placed. There are chairs, or benches, in the porch, and you often see women
sitting at work in it, as in Germany. The logs are usually hewn but little; and, of course,
as they are laid up, there will be wide interstices between them, which are increased by sub
sequent shrinking. These very commonly are not "chinked," or filled up in any way, nor
is the wall lined on the inside. Through the chinks, as you pass along the road, you may
often see all that is going on in the house, and at night the light of the fire shines bpightly
out on all sides. Cabins of this class are almost always flanked by two or three negro huts.
The cabins of the poorest class of whites are mere pens of logs, roofed over, provided with a
chimney, and usually with a shed of boards, supported by rough posts, before the door."
764 GEORGIA.
of the life around him, he will feel that the wants of one social condition and cli
mate may not be the wants of another, and very opposite one; that on the rice
plantations the people "live out of doors;" that their very houses, ever wide open,
are themselves "out of doors;" and consequently, but little more cared for than are
the self-caring lawns and woods around them.
It would seem, and so indeed it is, as a rule, that the southern gentleman, even
the most assiduous in business, labors only for occupation, his daily toil being his
welcome pleasure. He never buries the man in the business, but makes of his
business itself his social enjoyment and his true life. Thus, whatever may be his
engagements, he seems never to have anything to do but to amuse himself and his
family and the stranger within his gates.
The social season on the plantation is that of the winter and spring months only,
from November, or the time of early frost, to the beginning of June. During the
interval all the whites are away, excepting, may be, the overseer, who stays at his
peril. We are speaking thus of the swamp lands only, not of the whole region, for
the rice-fields are surrounded often by belts or ridges of high sandy ground, cov
ered with a close growth of pine, sanitary oases and safety-valves, exempt in a great
degree from the dreaded malaria of the richer soils. These sandy terraces and
pine barrens are places of refuge, in the hot season, to those whose convenience or
pleasure does not lead them to the cities or to the Northern States. They are, be
sides, the pleasant, permanent abode, summer and winter, of a considerable popu
lation.
The gay season begins at Christmas, which is celebrated hereabouts with much
of the old poetic interest, culminates in February, and by the end of March is over
and gone. After it, in April and May, come the most attractive out-of-door days,
when all nature is decked in the full, fresh drapery of summer — the greenest of
leaves and the brightest of flowers. Loving and accustomed to equestrian exer
cise, the ladies have enough of pleasant and profitable out-door life ; while their
large households furnish ample employment, even without the generally great cares
of hospitality. Tt is much the custom, at least on the smaller plantations, for the
mistress to charge herself with the labors and responsibility of supplying the
wants of the blacks as well as the whites of the family, providing them with their
rations of food and their stock of clothing, and ministering to them in hours of
sickness; so that, on the whole, one way or another, black and white together, a
Southern matron has no necessity, and but little opportunity, to be an idle woman.
The gentlemen are equally well provided with occupation in the care of their
plantations, the entertainment of their guests, and with studies in the library and
sports in the field. The swamps are full of deer, which beguile them to the chase,
and the peopled waters tempt them to wander forth with hook and line.
The planter's mansion is not an edifice of extraordinary architectural pretension,
even in its best estate. The superior houses are usually two story frame buildings,
with piazzas double in front and single in the rear, the outer parts of the latter
often inclosed so as to form small store or sleeping apartments. These are called
shed-rooms, and are very comfortable quarters. The chimneys are always built
outside of the walls, and slightly detached therefrom. The whole house is elevated
above the ground from six to eight feet, or even more, upon log or brick supports,
thus usefully avoiding dampness, aiding ventilation, and providing a cozy retreat
oftentimes for dogs, cats, pigs, chickens, and rubbish generally. The kitchen is,
in all cases, a separate building, but is occasionally connected with the main edi
fice by a covered passage. The houses are painted and furnished with outside
blinds, and are plastered or ceiled, or not, as it happens. In spring, when mus-
quitoes congregate, bright fires, one. on each side of the gate, are made of the resin
ous pine or "light wood," to lure them from the piazzas, where the household is
gathered. These fires are built on brick posts, or upon elevated wooden trays cov
ered with earth. They give a cheerful air to the wooded surroundings, and serve
to say if distant neighbors are at home or not."
The following are extracts from the minutes of the trustees of the colony
of Georgia, and published, with many others, in White's Hist. Collections of
Georgia :
GEORGIA. 765
Nov. 16, 1732. On board the frigate Ann, Capt. Thomas mustered the passengers on
board, and computed the freight of them to 91 heads.
Aug. 11, 1733. Read a letter from Mr. Oglethorpe, with an account of the death of sev
eral persons in Georgia, which he imputed to the drinking of rum. Resolved that the drink
ing of rum in Georgia be absolutely prohibited, and that all which shall be brought there
shall be staved.
Oct. 16, 1734. Read an indenture for binding William Ewen as servant to the trustees
for two years. That 50 acres of land be given to said William Ewen when his time is out
[Mr. Ewen afterward became governor of Georgia.]
May 5, 1735. One thousand cwt. of copper farthings to be sent to Georgia.
April 4, 1737. A law was read against the use of gold and silver in apparel and furni
ture in Georgia, and for preventing extravagance and luxury.
Nov. 9, 1737. Received from Major William Cook 16 different sorts of vine cuttings
from France for the use of the colony.
Dec. 7, 1737. Several letters were read from Mr. Williamson at Savannah complaining
of the Rev. John Wesley having refused the sacrament to his wife, with affidavit of the
latter thereupon, and two presentments of the Grand Jury of the Rev. John Wesley for said
refusal, and for several other facts laid to his charge.
May 16, 1739. Received a bottle of Salitrum seeds, being a remedy for the bloody flux
for the use of the colony. Read a commission to the Rev. George Whitefield to perform
all religious and ecclesiastical offices at Savannah, Georgia.
June 27, 1739. That the seal of the corporation be affixed to the Trustees' answer to
the Representation from Savannah of the 9th of Dec., 1738, for altering tenure of lands,
and introducing negroes in Georgia.
Jan. 16, 1739-40. Lieut. Delegel, Capt Dymond and Mr. Aspourger asked by the trust
ees their opinion about the climate of Georgia — declared they thought it very healthy, and
that in the hottest weather there are fine breezes in the middle of the day. As to the good
ness of the soil, "there was a great quantity of good land, called mixt land." Lieut. Del
egel said that the white Mulberry tree grows wild as well as the black. Capt. Dymond said
that no vegetable thrives faster in any part of the world than the Mulberry tree in Georgia.
Mr. Aspourger said that he had seen the family of Camuse winding silk. Capt. Dempsey
said that the wild vines grow abundantly in Georgia ; that the grapes are very sweet, and
that these vines are capable of great improvement by engraftment. Mr. Robert Millar,
botanist, said that he believed Indigo would grow very well in Georgia, and that it may be
sown and raised in four months in Georgia, whereas in most other places the climates are
not proper for it above three months.
Capt. Dymond being questioned about Cotton, declared that it thrives very well in
Georgia ; that he has brought home with him very good pods of it, and that it was planted
on the island of St. Simon, by Mr. Horton.
Capt. Dymond, Lieut. Delegel and Mr. Aspourger declared that they had all seen the
prickly pear shrub in Georgia, and the Cochineal Fly upon it ; that there are great numbers
of those trees, which grow wild in the southern part of the province, and that the islands
are full of them; that they have taken the fly between their fingers, and though green upon
the tree it dyes the fingers (if squeezed) with a deep red color. Lieut. Delegel said the
dye of it could not easily be washed off with soap.
Capt. Dymond being asked by the trustees about the timber in the province, said that he
had seen very good and fit for masts, and that Captain Gascoigne's carpenter told him
there was timber fit for masts for the largest men-of-war; that the timber grows very high
at some distance up in the country; that the trees grow very near rivers, which are navi
gable, and down which they may be floated. Lieut. Delegel said that the trees for masts
are very tall, twenty miles up in the country from St. Simon's. Capt. Shubrick said that
he had seen very fine knee timber growing near the sea. Capts. Dymond and Shubrick
declared that the sea-coast of Georgia is capable and secure for navigation as any coast in
the world.
Capt. Mapey told the trustees that since the establishment of Georgia the price of lands
has been greatly raised in Carolina, and the plantations there increased; that Georgia is a
fine barrier for the Northern provinces, and especially for Carolina; and is also a great se
curity against the running away of negroes from Carolina to Augustine, because every ne
gro, at his first appearance in Georgia, must be immediately known to be a runaway, since
there are no negroes in Georgia.
766 GEORGIA.
JOURNEY THROUGH THE SOUTHERN STATES IN THE TIME OF THE REV
OLUTIONARY WAR.
Watson, in his " Men and Times of the Revolution," has left a valuable
record of a journey which he made in the years 1777-78 through the
southern states. He was then a youth of nineteen years of age, and in the
employment of John Brown, an eminent merchant of Providence, the
founder of Brown University. We make the extract in an abridged form.
The southern states were then very thinly settled, and society but in a form
ing condition :
" At York the congress was at that time assembled after its dispersion from Phila
delphia. Protected by Washington, whose forces interposed between them and
the British army, they held daily secret sessions. Here we procured passports for
our southern journey. We entered Maryland on the 5th of October, and passed
through Hanover and Fredericksburg into Virginia, over the Potomac at New-
land's ferry. We found the country, through a wilderness region, infested by a
semi-barbarian population. We liberated an unfortunate traveler assailed by one
of these wretches, who, in his technical language, swore he "would try the strength
of his eye-ball strings." Soon after entering Virginia, and at a highly respectable
house, f was shocked, beyond the power of language to express, at seeing, for the
first time, young negroes of both sexes, from twelve even to fifteen years old, not
only running about the house, but absolutely tending table, as naked as they came
into the world, not having even the poor apology of a fig-leaf to save modesty a
blush. What made the scene more extraordinary still, to my unpracticed eye, was
the fact that several young women were at table, who appeared totally unmoved at
the scandalous violation of decency. I find custom will reconcile us to almost
everything.
Proceeding on our journey from Leesburg, night overtook us in the midst of a
wild and secluded region. A wretched ordinary, filled with a throng of suspicious
characters, afforded us the only refuge ; but as the moon was just rising, we chose
to press forward through the woods rather than to encounter its hospitalities. We
traveled thus until a late hour in the night, amid stately forests of tall, venerable
pines, our three carriages in a line, and man Tom, our servant, in advance. Sud
denly Torn came galloping back in a terrible fright. "What is the matter, Tom ?"
we cried. u Oh, massa, J see the d — 1 just this minute flying in dem woods!"
Mr. Scott, being ahead, stopped and exclaimed. "What can it be I Don't you see
it moving in the air among those trees?" We distinctly saw the object of Tom's
terror. " Well," says Scott, " let it be a d — 1, or a d — d tory, or what. I'll find out,"
He dismounted, pistol in hand, and dashed into the wood, calling upon Tom to
follow. They had not proceeded far when Tom whirled about, and was in full
career toward us, applying whip and spur at a merciless rate, his hat off, and his
naked head in a line with the horse's mane. Mr. Scott pressed forward with due
caution toward the terrific object, which still seemed to float in the air. We were
all impatience and anxiety for the fate of our gallant companion. In a moment
more he made the old forest ring with his powerful voice. "I have got the d — 1,
or some dead tory, fast by the leg; a man in gibbets /" After this absurd scene,
we advanced five miles further through the woods to a small tavern, where we
found rest and comfort Here we learned that the cause of our alarm was a ne
gro hung in chains for the murder of his master.
As we approached Fredericksburg, we passed many elegant plantations, whose
owners appeared to enjoy the splendor and affluence of nabobs. About two miles
from the town, on the north bank of the Rappahannock, we examined the exten
sive factory belonging to Colonel Hunter, for the manufacture of small arms, bar
iron, steel, files, etc. Frederieksburg is situated on the Rappahannock, and con*
tains about 8,000 inhabitants. At this place the mother of our Washington re
sides, and was pointed out to me. She is a majestic and venerable woman.
On the 17th of October we reached Williamsburg. Here I separated from my
traveling companions. This city contains three hundred and twenty dwelling-
houses, principally built of wood, on one street three-fourths of a mile in length
GEORGIA.
At Williamsburg I associated myself with a Captain Harwood, who was proceed
ing also to Charleston. We passed the little village of Jamestown, on James
River, interesting only from its early associations and venerable ruins; and next
reached Cobham and then Suffolk, where we found ourselves in the hands of the civil
authorities, on a complaint which had been lodged against us upon a suspicion of
our being spies. My exact and curious inquiries had again excited jealousy of
our character. We were compelled to go before a magistrate two miles out of
town, exhibit our passports, take the oath of abjuration, and pay the fees of
office.
Proceeding from Suffolk to Edenton, North Carolina, we passed over a spa
cious, level road, through a pine forest, which, beginning in this district, extends
quite across North Carolina. We traveled near the north border of the great
Dismal Swamp, which, at this time, was infested by concealed royalists and run
away negroes, who could not be approached with safety. They often attacked
travelers, and had recently murdered a Mr. Williams.
We entered North Carolina late in the day, availing ourselves of that hospi
tality so characteristic of southern manners, and threw ourselves upon the kind
ness of Mr. Granby, a wealthy planter and merchant. He informed me that, pre
vious to the Revolution, Washington and two other gentlemen had contemplated
opening a canal through the Dismal Swamp, for the purpose of drawing off the
water and reclaiming the land for cultivation.
Edenton is situated on the Albemarle Sound. It is defended by two forts, and
contained one hundred and thirty-five dwellings and a brick court-house. The
town was nearly overrun by the busy sons of commerce, from its being protected
against the access of an enemy by the difficult navigation of a shallow water.
At this place we crossed the sound, twelve miles, and entered a romantic creek,
up which we sailed some distance before landing. After landing, we traveled
eleven miles to Colonel Blount's where we arrived late at night, in Egyptian dark
ness. From Colonel Blount's we proceeded to Bath, on Pamlico Sound. We ar
rived late in the day in Bath, after traveling over a most sterile and desolate sandy
plain. The dreariness was scarcely relieved by the appearance of a house, ex
cept a few miserable tar-burner's huts. We crossed Pamlico Sound in an open
ferry-boat, a distance of five miles. After landing, we traveled the whole day
amid a gloomy region of sands and pines. The road was spacious and in a direct
line. The majestic perpendicular pines, apparently towering to the clouds, im
parted an imposing and solemn aspect to the scenery. The only relief from this
monotony, and the cheerless and painful silence, we found was noticing the watch
ful and timid deer grazing in the woods. The few inhabitants'scattered here and
there in the forest, subsist by the chase, burning tar and collecting turpentine.
It was nearly dark when we reached the river Neuse, which having crossed, we
again mounted our horses and proceeded on to Newbern, the capital of North Caro
lina, groping our way in the dark, along unknown roads, and drenched by the
heavy rains.
On our arrival, excessively wearied, and needing repose and shelter, we wan
dered in pursuit of quarters, from street to street, and were turned from tavern
to tavern every house being filled by French adventurers. At one of these taverns,
kept by one T , we were repulsed by the landlord with so much rudeness as to
produce a severe quarrel in the piazzi, where we stood soliciting quarters. New
bern was the metropolis of North Carolina, situated at the confluence of the
Neuse and Trent Rivers, and contained about one hundred and fifty dwellings. It
was defended by a strong fort and an armed ship. Previous to the war it exported
corn, naval stores, beeswax, hams and deer-skins, to a considerable amount.
The next morning Harwood proceeded to a barber's shop to be shaved. I soon
after started in pursuit of the same barber. I had not gone far before I met Har
wood, his pace somewhat quickened, and with one side only of his face shaved.
He soon informed me that the barber had been impertinent, and that he had
knocked him down and left him sprawling on the floor. We agreed that to
avoid trouble he should push on, and that I should follow. He was soon on
his way through the streets of the capital of North Carolina, in the ludicrous pre
dicament I have described. I left Newbern soon after upon Harwood' s track, and
GEORGIA.
crossed the Trent by a rope ferry seventy feet wide. I journeyed the entire day
alone, through a wilderness of pines, over a flat, sandy country, with scarcely an
inhabitant to be seen. Toward the close of the day I found myself entangled
among swamps, amid an utter wilderness, and my horse almost exhausted in my
efforts to overtake Harwood. As night closed upon me, I was totally bewildered,
and without a vestige of a road to guide me. Knowing the impossibility of retra
cing my steps in the dark, through the mazes I had traversed, I felt the absolute
necessity of passing the night in this solitary desert. Feeling no apprehension
that my horse would wander far from me, I turned him to shift for himself. I
then placed my box under the sulky, and with my pistols fresh primed on one side,
and my hanger on the other, I drew around me my grego, and, prostrated on the
ground along with these, my only companions, half asleep and half awake, I passed
the night in no trifling apprehension of falling a prey to wild beasts before morn
ing.
At length, to my inexpressible satisfaction, the eastern horizon began to kin
dle up, and gradually to brighten more and more into the full blaze of day. I
found my faithful horse true to his allegiance, and within reach. I harnessed
up, and pressed with as much speed as possible out of this dreary retreat of soli
tude and desolation. My movements were somewhat accelerated by observing a
large bear stepping slowly along at a little distance from me. After several miles
traveling I regained the road, and in the course of the forenoon overtook Har
wood.
We crossed the Neuse Kiver, and passed over a continuous pine barren to Wil
mington, on Cape Fear River. This was a compact town, ten miles from the sea,
and is surrounded by sand-hills. It was defended by two forts, and two brigs of
sixteen guns each. It formerly exported large quantities of naval stores, pork,
furs, etc., which it received by the river from the fertile country in the interior. The
killing of deer by torch-light was a favorite amusement of the inhabitants of this
region.
On leaving Wilmington we crossed the Cape Fear River, which is here two hun
dred yards wide, and navigable by vessels of twenty feet draught. At Brunswick
nearly all the houses had been deserted from apprehension of the enemy. From
this place to Lockwood's Folly, twenty-two miles, is an unbroken wilderness ; not
a house, not even a wild tar-burner's, was presented to our view the whole distance.
Fortunately forewarned, we had prepared ourselves with supplies to encounter
this desert. At night we encamped at a wretched hovel, without floor or furni
ture.
The next day we crossed Little River, the country continuing to exhibit the same
dreary and desolate aspect. The ensuing morning we passed a dangerous wash,
at the north entrance of Long Bay. Suddenly the ocean and several ships burst
upon our view. The contrast was a great relief to our minds and eyes after trav
eling so many days over a waste of sand.
We rode along this bay for sixteen miles on the edge of the surf, upon a hard,
firm beach. The swell roared and curled upon the shore, and, as we advanced,
the variety of sea-birds starting on the wing, and a school of porpoises rolling up
their black backs on the surface of the sea, amused us as we passed along this
beautiful scene. Sand hillocks ran parallel with the shore on our right, over which
land birds were continually hovering. We were alarmed and surprised as we en
tered on the circuit of this bay, to observe, as we thought for the moment, several
men, with horses and carriages, at a distance, swimming in the sea. We were soon,
however, relieved by noticing an exhalation in that direction, which had produced
the mirage. About half way across the beach we met a group of travelers, who
proved to be General Mclntosh and suit, going to the north to join the army.
We mutually stopped to exchange civilities and learn the news. Our minds had for
several days been depressed in reflecting upon the critical condition of our national
affairs. Gracious GodJ how were we astonished and transported with joy on hear
ing from the general that Burgoyne and his whole army were prisoners of war I
In confirmation of the intelligence, he presented us a handbill, printed at Charles
ton, containing the articles of capitulation. We involuntarily took off our hats
and gave three hearty cheers in concert with the roaring of the surge. All con-
GEORGIA.
769
gidered this glorious event as deciding the question of our eventual independence.
In triumph we carried the joyous news to the hospitable seat of William Alston
Esq., one of the most respectable and affluent planters in South Carolina. We
arrived at the close of the day, but were received with open arms and entertained
in the most sumptuous style. With music and his best madeira we celebrated the
great event we had announced, in high glee, to a late hour of the night.
We had been cautioned to be on our guard against the attacks of runaway ne
groes, in the passage of swamps near Wingan Bay. As we entered the second
swamp, fourteen naked negroes, armed with poles, presented themselves in the at
titude of hostility, across the road. Harwood seized one of my pistols and charged
them at full speed, making the woods resound with his thundering voice. I pressed
forward close to his heels in my sulky, armed with the other pistol. They threw
down their rails and dashed into the woods, and we passed on without further in
terruption.
As evening closed in we embarked in a good ferry-boat, manned by four jolly,
well-fed negroes, to cross Wingan Bay, a distance of four miles. The evening was
serene, the stars shone brightly, and the poor fellows amused us the whole way by
singing their plaintive African songs in cadence with the oars. We reached
Georgetown in the evening. It stands on the Wingan River, and is the second
place of importance in the state. After leaving Georgetown we passed the Black
Kiver, and, crossing a second ferry, traveled over Santee island.
At length, on the 18th of November, 1777, the city of Charleston presented it
self to our view. We left our horses and crossed Cooper's River in a yawl. I was
delighted with the view of this splendid city, and the shipping in its harbor. After
a seventy days' journey from Providence, having traveled 1,243 miles, it was to me
almost like the entrance of the Israelite into the promised land. I performed the
the whole route either on horseback or in a sulky.
In the intervals of business, I mingled with delight in the elegant and gay soci
ety of this refined metropolis, under the wing of Mr. Russell, the consignee of Mr.
Brown, a gentleman, of New England origin, but occupying a distinguished posi
tion in the mercantile community of Charleston.
Among the females of Charleston we observed many elegant, accomplished
women, but generally of sallow complexions, and without that bloom that distin
guishes the daughters of the north. Perhaps no city of America exhibits, in pro
portion to its size, so much splendor and style as Charleston. The rich planters
of the state live in almost Asiatic luxury, and usually, before the Revolution, edu
cated their sons in Europe.*
Having arranged my affairs in Charleston, I determined, in company with a Mr.
Bloomfield, of Boston, and Mr. Clark, of New Haven, to extend my tour to the
south as far as prudence should warrant. In pursuance of this plan we left
Charleston on the 29th of January, 1788.
The road to Ashley River is delightful. We passed many elegant seats, with
fine gardens and grounds. The road in some places is shaded by lofty trees, from
which we were sweetly serenaded by the music of beautiful birds, offering up, we
could believe, their evening praises to our common Benefactor.
On this river are situated the choicest plantations, and the most elegant and nu
merous country-seats, in the state. The extensive marshes bordering upon this
and adjacent streams, had recently been converted into highly productive rice
plantations, to which culture they are well adapted. In the evening of this day we
were much annoyed by the quarrel of two overseers in an adjoining room, who
soon gave us a fair (or rather foul) specimen of a genuine Georgia gouging-match.
They rushed upon each other with the fury and ferocity of bull-dogs, and made
every effort to gouge out each other's eyes. We at length succeeded in separating
them.
In the morning, as we were about leaving the inn, an old French officer rode
•-Before the Revolution about one hundred and forty ships were annually freighted at
Charleston, Georgetown and Beaufort, and principally at the former, with rice, indigo, to
bacco, skins and naval stores ; about seventy thousand casks of rice, and thirty thousand
deer-skins, were yearly exported.
770 GEORGIA.
up and tied his horse to the post, and passing us with a profound bow, entered
the house. He wore a three-cornered cocked hat, a laced coat, a long queue tied,
close to his head with a ribbon in a large double bow, his hair powdered, and a
long sword dangling by his side. He spoke only French. Immediately after him
came up a negro riding on a mule, which, in despite of his rider's efforts, dashed
in between the post and the horse. In the struggle the horse's bridle broke, and
away went the horse into the woods, with a heavy portmanteau dancing at his
side. The Frenchman, no doubt thinking it all design (for he did not compre
hend a word of the negro's explanation), drew his long sword, his eyes flashing
fury. The moment the negro saw the sword he sprang off his mule and darted
for the forest, with monsieur in full chase after him, vociferating most vehemently.
At first we were alarmed, but perceiving the negro to be too nimble for him, were
exceedingly amused by the chase. Despairing of overtaking the lad, the French
man darted his sword after him, exclaiming, " Belitre — diable," etc. We soon
after started, and saw the poor terrified black still scudding away far off among
the 'pines.
The next day we passed Pond Pond, and traveled over an interesting country,
interspersed with fine plantations. The roads are as level as a bowling-green, and
generally in a direct line. We noticed peas in blossom. Near the Ashepoo we
observed several Indians seated on a log. We ascertained that they were the cel
ebrated warrior Little Carpenter, king of the Cherokees, with his queen and seve
ral counsellors, on their way to Charleston, to "brighten and strengthen," as he
told us, in good English, "the chain of union."
We passed Barnard Elliot's magnificent residence, and those of other planters,
in the distance, on avenues cut through the woods, and surrounded by their little
villages of negro huts. The 1st of February we had a succession of showers,
with heavy thunder, similar to our northern April weather. The next day we
crossed over to Port Royal Island. At the ferry -house, where we stopped for the
night, a party of the young folks of the lower order had assembled, and, willing
to contribute to their amusement, as well as my own, I took out my flute, and plav-
ing some jigs, set them dancing, shuffling, and capering in merry style.
This island is about ten miles square. The land is generally poor, affording but
a few rice plantations. The staple is indigo, which grows on a light soil. Borne
cotton is cultivated here for domestic purposes ; but as it is so difficult to disentan
gle the fiber from the seed, its extensive culture is not attempted, although it emi
nently flourishes in this climate, and is a most important article. Every eve-ning
we have noticed the negroes, old and young, clustered in their huts, around their
pine-knot fires, plucking the obstinate seed from the cotton
Deer and foxes abound on this island. Beaufort is handsomely situated, and
contains about seventy houses, besides public buildings, and is defended by a re
spectable fort, two miles below the town. We retraced our steps and again crossed
the ferry. At noon, stopping at a very decent looking house, which we supposed
to be a tavern, we ordered our dinner, wine, etc. , with the utmost freedom. What was
our amazement and mortification when, inquiring for the bill, our host replied,
"Gentlemen, I keep no tavern, but am very much obliged to you for your visit."
In the true spirit of southern liberality, he insisted upon our taking a bed with
him on our return from Georgia. This incident exhibits the beautiful trait of
hospitality, for which the south is so distinguished.
The next day we entered Savannah, the capital of Georgia. We delivered our
letters to General Walton, one of the signers of the declaration of independence,
Commodore Bowen and other gentlemen, which gained us early admission into
the delightful society of the city.
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