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BANCROFT
LIBRARY
THE LIBRARY
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THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
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JULY, 1906
S~7 JT«*7
BANCROFT -
Vol. XXV, Nc. 1
LIBRARY
IE NATION .
BACK OF U^,
20"S
PY
LOS ANGELES
air new high st
SAN FRANCISCO
28t 1 OCTAVIA «T
$2
A
YEAR
OUT WEST
A Magazine of the Old Pacific and the New
Editors
CHAS. F. LUMMIS
CHARLES AMADON MOODY
SHARLOT M. HALL, Associate Editor
Among thb stockholders and Contributors arb:
DAVID STARR JORDAN
President of Stanford University
FREDERICK STARR
Chicago University
THEODORE H. HITTELL
The Historian of California
MARY HALLOCK FOOTE
Author of "The Led-Horse Claim," etc.
MARGARET COLLIER GRAHAM
Author of "Stories of the Foothills"
GRACE ELLERY CHANNING
Author of "The Sister of a Saint," etc.
ELLA HIGGINSON
Author of "A Forest Orchid," etc.
CHARLES WARREN STODDARD
The Poet of the South Seas
INA COOLBRITH
Author of "Songs from the Golden Gate," etc
EDWIN MARKHAM
Author of "The Man with the Hoe"
JOAQUIN MILLER
The Poet of the Sierras
BATTERMAN LINDSAY
CHARLES FREDERICK HOLDER
Author of "The Life of Agrassiz," etc.
CHAS. DWIGHT WILLARD
CONSTANCE GODDARD DU BOIS
Author of "The Shield of the Fleur de Lis"
WILLIAM E. SMYTHE
Author of "The Conquest of Arid America," etc.
DR. WASHINGTON MATTHEWS
Ex-Prest. American Folk-Lore Society
WILLIAM KEITH
The Greatest Western Paiqter
CHARLES A. KEELER
LOUISE M. KEELER
GEO. PARKER WINSHIP
The His'.jrian of Coronado's Marches
FREDERICK WEBB HODGE
of the Smithsonian Institution, Washing-ton
GEO. HAMLIN FITCH
Literary Editor S. F. Chroniclt
ALEX. F. HARMER
CHARLOTTE PERKINS STETSON GILMAN
Author of "In This Our World"
CHAS. HOWARD SHINN
Author of "The Story of the Mine," etc
T. S. VAN DYKE
Author of "Rod and Gun in California," etc.
MARY AUSTIN
Author of "The Land of Little Rain"
L. MAYNARD DIXON
ELIZABETH AND JOSEPH GRINNELL
Authors of "Our Feathered Friends'"'
Contents — Jxily, 1906
The Making of a Great Mine, illustrated, by Sharlot M. Hall 3
An Archaeological Wedding Journey, illustrated serial, by Theresa Russell, Chapter
VII, A Local Habitation 27-
A Castle in Spain (sonnet), by David Starr Jordan 36
Orleans Indian Legends, by Melcena Burns Denny, (illustrated bv Maynard Dixon)
I, The Legend of Pain 37
Spring in the Santa Cruz, by Virginia Garland 41
In Defense of a Lady (story), by Judith Graves Waldo 48
"Tramp," (Story), by A. V. Hoffman " 57
Widow Brown's Wedding( .story), by A. Hartman 62
Sealed Orders (story), by Eugene Manlove Rhodes 67
Carnations (poem), by Edward W. Barnard 72
The Great Premier of New Zealand, (biographical study of Richard John Seddon),
by Michael Flurscheim 73
That Which is Written (book comment), by Charles Amadou Moody 77
Tulare, illustrated, by V. D. Knutt 81
Porterville, illustrated, by Edward A. DeBlois " 89
The Earlimont Colony, illustrated, by William A. Sears 95
Copyright 19W. Entered at the Los Angeles Postoffiee as second-class matter. (See Publishers' Page)
THE QUALITY STORE
Comfortable
Summer Suits
An elegant line of
Outing or Negligee
shirts for hot weath-
er. Neckwear ap-
propriate .
Two-piece suits and dressy light weight suits in summer's
coolest colors — all the popular natty effects. Every gar-
ment of "M. & B." goodness and honesty of price — which
means the best of hand-tailoring and perfect fitting.
$12, $15, $18, $20ej^$25
Straw Hats and Panamas
That will keep your Head Cool these Hot Days
Mullen &t Bluett Clothing Co.
Corner Spring and First Streets
For Health
Happiness and a
Home Come to
Southern
California
Write for information and illustrated
printed matter, enclosing a 5-cent
stamp, to
THE
Chamber of Commerce
Los Angeles, Cal.
Buck
Skin
Shoes
Men's shoe in
pearl or tan buck-
skin, widths AAtoE,
sizes 4 to 12. Price $3.30
The most desirable shoes for outing and
general wear. Light, cool, durable— made
on anatomical lasts, which allow the great-
est foot freedom. Styles for men, women
and children.
Send for our Buckskin Catalogue
WETHERBY KAYSER SHOE (0.
217 S. Broadway, Los Angeles
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS
Los Angeles,
California
Occidental College
The College. Four Courses — Classical, Scientific,
Literary, and Literary-Musical. Two new brick
buildings, costing $80,006 — modern and convenient.
Academy. Prepares for Occidental, or any other
college or university. The Occidental School of Mus-
ic — Theory, Vocal and Instrumental.
First semester begins September 12, 1906.
Address JOHN WILL'S BAER, L. L. D., President
IMMACULATE HEART COLLEGE
A boarding and day school for young ladies,
conducted by the Sisters of the Immaculate
Heart.
For prospectus address
Mother Superior. Hollywood, Cal.
MAJiZANITA HALL,
For Boys.. Palo Alto, Calif.
Life of mountain, valley, sea. While a ma-
jority of its graduates enter Stanford, it has
had marked success in preparing for Eastern
Universities and technical schools. Ideal
dormitory system. New cinder track this com-
ing year. Every branch under a master. A
growing school for growing boys. Send for
catalogue. 14th year opens August 22.
J. LeR. DIXON, Head Master.
Saint Vincent's College
Los Angeles, California
Boarding and Day College
and High School
Military Drill and Calisthenics a Feature.
For Catalogue write the President.
APA^I7 HAI I ^ school for boys among the
AUMjjIjL IIMLL Sierra pines. Remarkable cli-
mate. Prepares for best Colleges and Universities.
Out-door Sports; Riding, Hunting, Boating, Fishing,
Snow-shoeing, Camping. Boys may enter at any
time. For catalogue, address the Headmaster.
WILLIAM W. PRICE, M. A., Alta, Placer Co., Cal.
Send For Beauty Booklet
THE celebrated French
house of J. Simon has!
since 1861 led the World in
the manufacture of toilet
articles. They have prepared
a dainty booklet on beauty
hints which will be sent free
on request.
Creme Simon
The famous skin preserver and keautiher.
Poudre Simon the powder lor keauty or oaky.
CrodM Simin Soap softens, whitens and cleans.
Samples of this trinity of beauty-makers will be sent free on
receipt of 8c. to pay postage and packing.
GEO. P. WALLAU, Inc., 2 Stone Street, New York City
%
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livjtok
$.' p ^
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THE ESMERALDE TOURMALINE MINE AT MESA GRANDE,
SAN DIEGO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
SAY!!
Did YOU liNOW
that you could buy native
California Gems satisfac-
torily by mail, just the
same as if you were here
in our lapidary.
Just address Mail Order
Department, stating what
kind of stone you want,
color and size, and we will
send you same by express
C. O. D. privilege of ex-
amination.
If not satisfactory return
at our expense.
All kinds of precious
stones cut to order.
Send cutting by mail.
Write for catalogue and
price list.
We are the largest gem
mining and cutting com-
pany west of the Rockies.
Saim
H53H B &ftreetf Saim
REFERENCES-. LEADING BANKS
DOC WILSON, Manager
J.H.PACKARD
Banker
and
Broker
Ensenada, Lower California
Mexico
Information concerning
Mexico and Lower Cal-
ifornia cheerfully furn-
ished and business
entrusted in my hand
given my personal
attention
State of Sinaloa
ON WEST COAST OF MEXICO
Coast line Four Hundred (400) miles.
Large areas of agricultural, fruit and timber
lands.
Annual rainfall thirty (30) inches.
Short railroad lines in operation and trunk lines
projected with constructions begun, make
this a peculiarly desirable time to invest.
Desirable tracts of from 100 to 100,000 acres
for sale.
For full information about SINALOA, and its
resources, address
SINALOA LAND COMPANY
Suite 220-221 J2 Conservative Life Bldg.
Los Angeles, California
Exclusive Concessionaries for Survey of Public
Lands in State of Sinaloa, Mexico.
Directors and Stockholders:
Frederick H. Rindge Estate,
George I. Cochran, A. J. Wallace,
J. C. Drake, R. P. Probasco,
Geo. P. Thresher. Warren Gillelen,
Dan'l Freeman.
TwO-YEAR-OlD RUBBER TRtt ON PALENQUC PLANTATION
RUBBER
"They well deserve to have, that know
the strongest and surest way to get."
For sure, large and permanent returns noth-
ing equals a well managed tropical plantation.
Our plantation, located in what is known as
the true Rubber Zone of Mexico, is under the
management of experienced men, who have
made a study of Mexican Agriculture.
You invest your money in oil stock — you may
strike oil, or in mining stock — you may strike
gold; but when you invest in RUBBER shares
you are sure to strike RUBBER. It is only a
question whether the final returns will yield
100% or 300% on the investment.
It must be borne in mind that Rubber Culti-
vation is not a speculation, it is an agricultural
(tropical) investment which requires only fairly
good management to bring in a few years re-
turns that a Northern farmer would not credit
if told him.
Writ* for Booklet Do It Now
PALENQUE PLANTATION & COMMERCIAL CO.
Plantation, Department of Palenque, State of Chiapas, Mexico.
GEO. LEONARD, Sec'y Temporary Office, 2100 Scott St., SAN FRANCISCO. CAL.
Designated Depository of the United States
FIRST NATIONAL BANK
OF LOS ANGELES
Special Ladies' Department
Capital Stock $1,250,000.00
Surplus and Undivided Profits 1,392,450.82
Deposits 14,45 1 ,636.63
J. M. Elliott, President Stoddard Jess, Vice-President
W. C. Patterson, Vice-President
G. E. Bittinger, Vice-President
John S. Cravens, Vice-President
VV. T. S. Hammond, Cashier
A. C. Way, Asst. Cashier E. S. Pauly, Asst. Cashier
E. W. Coe, Asst. Cashier A. B. Jones, Asst. Cashier
All departments of a modern banking business
conducted.
The
National Bank of California
at Los Angeles
Northeast Corner 2nd and Spring Streets
John M. C. Marble, Pres.
John E. Marble, Vice-Pres.
J. E. Fishburn, Cashier
F. J. Belcher, Jr., Asst. Cashier
Hon. O. T. Johnson W. D. Woolwine
Judge S. C. Hubbell R. I. Rogers
Directors
Solicits Business and Correspondence
The German Savings
and Loan Society
526 California St,, San Francisco
Guaranteed Capital and Surplus $ 2,526,763.61
Capital actually paid up in cash 1,000,000.00
Deposits, Dec. 30, 19C5 39 112,812.82
F. Tillmann, Jr., President
Daniel Meyer, First Vice-President
Emil Rohte, Second Vice-President
A. H. R. Schmidt, Cashier
Wm. Herrmann, Asst. Cashier
George Tourney, Secretary
A. H. Muller, Asst. Secretary
W. S. Goodfellow, General Attorney
Directors
F. Tillman, Jr., Daniel. Meyer, Emil
Rohte, Ign. Steinhart, I. N. Walter, N.
Ohlandt, J. W. Van Bergen, E. T. Kruse,
W. S. Goodfellow
DIVIDEND NOTICES
San Francisco, Cal.
DIVIDEND NOTICE.
German Savings and Loan Society, 526
California st. — For the half year ending June
30, 1906, a dividend has been declared at the
rate of three and six-tenths (3 6-10) per
cent per annum on all deposits, free of taxes,
payable on and after Monday, July 2, 1906.
Dividends not called for are added to and
bear the same rate of interest as the prin-
cipal from July 1, 1906.
GEORGE TOURNY, Secretary.
DIVIDEND NOTICE.
Mutual Savings Bank of San Francisco,
710 Market st. — For the half year ending
June 30, 1906, a dividend has been declared
at the rate of three and one-quarter (3 1-4)
per cent per annum on all deposits, free of
taxes, payable on and after Monday, July 2,
1906. Dividends not called for are added to
and bear the same rate of interest as the
principal from July 1, 1906.
GEORGE A. STORY, Cashier.
DIVIDEND NOTICE.
The Continental Building and Loan Asso-
ciation, corner of Market and Church sts.,
San Francisco, Cal., has declared for the six
months ending June 30, 1906, a dividend of
five per cent per annum on ordinary deposits,
six per cent on term deposits, and six per
cent on monthly payment investments. In-
terest on deposits payable on and after July
1st. Interest on ordinary deposits not called
for will be added to the principal and there-
after bear interest at the same rate.
DR. WASHINGTON DODGE, President.
WILLIAM CORBIN, Secretary.
DIVIDEND NOTICE.
California Safe Deposit and Trust Co., Cor.
California and Montgomery sts. — For the six
months ending June 30, 1906, dividends have
been declared on the deposits in the savings
department of this company as follows: On
term deposits at the rate of 3 6-10 per cent
per annum, and on ordinary deposits at the
rate of 3 1-2 per cent per annum, free of
taxes, and payable on and after Monday,
July 2, 1906.
J. DALZELL BROWN, Manager.
DIVIDEND NOTICE.
San Francisco Savings Union, N. W. Cor.
California and Montgomery sts. — For the half
year ending 30th June, 1906, a dividend has
been declared at the rates per annum of
three and two-thirds (3 2-3) per cent on
term deposits and three and one-third (3 1-3)
per cent on ordinary deposits, free of taxes,
payable on and after Monday, July 2, 1906.
Depositors are entitled to draw their divi-
dends at any time during the succeeding
half year. Dividends not drawn will be
added to the deposit account, become a part
thereof and earn dividend from July 1st.
LOVELL WHITE, Cashier.
DIVIDEND NOTICE.
Savings and Loan Society, 101 Montgomery
St., cor. of Sutter, has declared a dividend
for the term ending June 30, 1906, at the
rate of three and one-half (3%) per cent per
annum on all deposits, free of taxes, and
payable on and after July 2, 1906. Dividends
not called for are added to and bear the
same rate of interest as principal.
EDWIN BONNELL, Cashier.
THE
American National Bank
OF SAN FRANCISCO
Deposit Gro-wtli
Mar. 3.I902 $ 387,72870
Sept. 15, 1002 1,374,98343
Mar. 15, 1903 2,232,582.94
Sept. 15, 1903 3,629,11339
Mar. 15, 1904 3,586,912.31
Sept. 15, 1904 3,825,47171
Mar. 15, 1905 4,349,427.92
Sept. 15,1905 4,938,629.05
Mar. 15, 1906 5,998,431.52
jl ample capital provides se-
_I L' curity; if undivided profits
indicate prosperity; if constant growth
is proof of good service, then you
should send your Pacific Coast busi-
ness to the
American National Bank
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
YOUR
BANK
We Desire to be Your Bank
You are cordially invit-
ed to make this your
bank. Every facility of
modern banking is at
your service. Our Trust
and Bond Departments
offer added conven-
iences. You will bo made
to feel at home and your
business will receive
prompt, accurate and
cheerful attention.
Merchants Trust Company
CAPITAL, $350,000
209 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, Cal.
JOHN T.
GRIFFITH
COMPANY
Established 1892 Incorporated 1905
John T. Griffith, President
H. E. O'Brien, Vice-President
John N. Gardiner, Secretary
Mtaica's Lana. Whirl, near falmrfti
Real Estate and Insurance
MAKING
A
SPECIALTY
OF
High Class Business and
Residential Property
CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED
Member of L. A. Realty Board
214-216 Wilcox Building, Los Angeles, Cal.
Reliable help promptly furnished. Hummel Bros. & Co., Tel. Main 509.
Broadway- Vendome
Hotel
Broadway and 41st Street, New Yorh
EUROPEAN PLAN.
ABSOLUTELY FIRE PROOF.
A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL AT MODERATE PRICES.
SUBWAY STATION— ONE BLOCK.
GRAND CENTRAL STATION— 5 MINUTES WALK.
CITY HALL— EIGHT MINUTES.
LOWER SECTION— EIGHT MINUTES.
WITHIN TWO BLOCKS OF
FIFTEEN PROMINENT THEATRES
CENTER OF SHOPPING DISTRICT
Single Rooms, near Bath
Single Rooms, with Bath
$1.50 per Day
$2.00 per Day
SEND FOR BOOKLET
BROADWAY-VENDOME CO., Proprietors
E. S. Growell, General Manager
•>• I FOR YOUR FARM,
I OCh HOME. BUSINESS OR
1*^1X1 I OTHER PROPERTY.
^**^ We can sell it for you, no
_m_ matter where it is or what
it is worth. If you desire
a quick sale send us description and price.
If you want to buy any kind of property
anywhere send for our monthly. It is
FREE and contains a large list of desirable
properties in all parts of the country. C. A.
WILSON. Real Estate Dealer, 415 Kansas
avenue. Topeka . K ansas.
The American
Collection Agency
No fee charged un-
less collection is
made. We make col-
lections in all parts
of the United States.
413 KANSAS AVE.
TOPEKA, KANSAS
1 6 Steuart St. San Trancisco. ^
"JUST AROUND THE CORNER:
&
DENT A CUR A
Tooth
Paste
deans and pre-
serves the teeth.
Mothers should realize the
importance of preserve 5
intact the p"' ary set f
teeth until ,ie secondary
or permanent set is ready
to take its place. Let us
send you our free booklet on "Taking Care of
the Teeth" which contains much information
in concise form. Children should be encouraged
to use Dentacura Tooth Paste. 25c a tube.
Avoid substitutes.
DENTACURA COMPANY,
107 ALLING ST., NEWARK, N. J., U. S. A.
LEADING HOTELS OF THE COAST
Below will be found, for the information of tourists who visit California, a list of the best hotels, both
tourist and commercial, in the leading Resorts and Cities of the State. A postal card of inquiry will
bring literature and information as to rates, by return mail.
APARTMENTS, Los Angeles
fully furnished, new, 3 rooms, gas, range,
hot water, bath, telephone, $14.00 monthly. T.
Wiesendanger, jii Merchants Truit Building.
£LARENDON, Los Angeles,
^â– ^ European plan, tourist and commercial
hotel. Central location, one block from Broad-
way. Special rates by the week.
TJOTEL HOLLYWOOD, Hollywood
* A Cal. Only hotel in the beautiful Ca-
huenga foothills. Unique for home comforts com-
bined with every modern convenience of a first
clans hotel.
H
OTEL REDONDO, Redondo, Cal.
18 miles from Los Angeles, at Redondo-
by the Sea. "The Queen of the Pacific." Open
all the year; even climate.
'"THE NEW ROSSLYN, io. Angelas
Comprising the Lexington and Rosslyn
la. American and European plans. Center oi
city — 285 rooms — 150 with bath. Rates, Ameri-
can. $1.50 up; European, 75 cents up. Fine
sample rooms.
TJOTEL VANCE, Eureka
American plan. Noted
nishings and superior table
Dougherty, Manager.
for excellent fur-
service. J. F.
H
OTEL VENDOME, San Jose
A charming summer and winter resort.
Headquarters for tourists visiting Lick Observa-
tory. Joseph T. Brooks, Manager.
TJOTEL WESTMINSTER,
"^^ LOS ANGELES. Largest and best. Euro-
pean plan. $1 per day and upwards. Service
best. Cor. Main and 4th Sts. K O. John
Prop.
Service the
SON,
OASO ROBLES HOT SPRINGS
â– Hotel, Paso Robles, Cal. New bath house
most complete in the U. S. Hydropathic treat-
ment for all ills. Open year round. W. A.
Junker. Manager.
CT. FRANCIS, San Francisco
^ America's model hotel. European plan.
Built of stone and steel. Facing a beautiful
tropical garden in the heart of city. James
Woods, Manager.
Hummel Bros. & Co., "Help Center," 116-118 E. Second St. Tel. Main 509.
i
TRADE MARK
zMria
BEE
BEE
BEE
FLOUR
All rights reserved
The package will make
7 loaves the size of a i-pound baking powder can, or
p breakfast muffins of ordinary size, or
1 2 dozen griddle cakes, or
7 fruit puddings the size of the bread loaf.
How to Live
and be Jolly
All the Day
Eat Hot Cakes t Breakfast Muffins,
Boston Brown Bread or Plum Pud-
ding, made fresh from ALLEN'S
B*B*B* FLOUR. It is the most
healthy and tasteful food you can
procure* Try it and you will
want no more of the ready made
bake shop or canned goods kind*
The flour is prepared all ready for
the liquids* The ECONOMY in
buying* the SIMPLICITY in
making and the ASSURANCE of
having a pure and wholesome food
are points worthy of consideration*
ASK YOUR GROCER FOR IT
ALLEN'S B. B. B. FLOUR CO.
Pacific Coast, Factory, San Jose, Cal.
MEHNEN'S 6-
Toilet
Talcum
Powder
AT THE SEA SHORE
Mention's will give Immediate relief from
prickly heat. < liiifliiir. sim-burn and all
skin troubles. Ourabsolutely non-rerillable
box is for your protection. For sale every-
where or by mail 25 cents. Sample free.
GERHARDMENNEN CO., Newark, N.J.
TRY Ml nm VS VIOLET (Borated) TALCUM.
CLEAN HANDS
for everyone
by using
BAILEY'S RUBBER
TOILET BRUSH
PAT JUNE 4. 89
Price 23o. etch. For sale by all dealers in Toilet
Goods. Mailed on receipt of price. 1ST Agents -wanted.
Bailey's Rubber MASSAGE ROLLER
It Makes.
Batpt arnl
Restores
Beauty in
Katara*i
Own Way.
For sale by all ETi"|r»
dealers or mailed Dlllf
â– pos receipt of *^ vv
RUBBER BOOK
Baby's TeetH
cut without irritation
Thr flat-ended teeth of Balley'j
TeetMatRiag expand theffums,
keeping* them soft, comforts
and amuses the child, predent-
in* convulsions and cholera infantum
Mtiilttl for tht price (stamps), ioc.
C. J. Bailey & Co., 22 Boylston St., Boston, Mass.
Mothers!
Mothers!!
Mothers!!!
Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup
has been used for over SIXTY YEARS
by MILLIONS of MOTHERS for their
CHILDREN while TEETHING with
PERFECT SUCCESS. It SOOTHES
the CHILD, SOFTENS the GUMS, AL-
LAYS all PAIN, CURES WIND
COLIC, and is the best remedy for
DIARRHOEA. Sold by all Druggists
in every part of the world. Be sure and
ask for "Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syr-
up," and take no other kind. Twenty-
five cents a bottle.
Have you visited the
"Angel's Flight"
If not why not? It is the
most unique, interesting and
picturesque incline railway
in the world. It is in the
heart of the city — Hill and
Third Streets, Los Angeles,
Cal. J. W. EDDY, Mgr.
re Asthma.
KIDDER'S PASTILLES. ^If^,,.
smiiiiiiiiiiBiBiiiiiBiBiBiiB or | )y mft ii, m; fonts.
STOW ELL A CO., Mfrs. Cbarlestown. Mass.
ON REFLECTION
you will l>e << im lin-
ed that there is n< lb
ingthat to beautifies I
the complexion and I
gives such lasting!
â– atisfactii n as
Face Powder ***
It prevents and cures sunburn, roughness and
otlu i distressing afilii tn.ns eaustd by the wind and
lie.it. Its j.ei uliar perfume is extracted from Bow
crs and plants. It is pure, cooling, and antiseptic.
RtftiM tubr.tttute*. They may be dangerous
Flesh, White, i'ink.or Cream,. soc. a box, ol di uggisis
Of by mail, Stmd toe, for tttmpU,
,,. BlN. LF-VV & CO., French Perfumers
mfit llrpl. 4 . 126 Mn««lnn St.. Iln.lon,
ysriNcmzTM
.32 and .35 Caliber
Model 1 90S Self Loading Rifle
T
HIS rifle is a six shot hammerless take-down, made in .32 and
.35 calibers. It is the first rifle of the Self Loading type
made for center fire ammunition, the cartridges it handles
being of the modern smokeless powder type, using metal
patched bullets. The .32 caliber shoots a 165-grain bullet
and gives a velocity of 1400 foot seconds and a penetration
of 11 ^ inch dry pine boards with a metal patched soft
point bullet. The 35 caliber shoots a 180-grain bullet and gives a veloc-
ity of 1400 foot seconds and a penetration of 10 7/% boards with a metal
patched soft point bullet, at the standard testing distance of 15 feet
from the muzzle. As these figures show, both cartridges give excellent
penetration, and with metal patched soft point bullets they have great
shocking effect on animal tissue. As its name indicates, this rifle is self-
loading. The recoil of the exploded cartridge ejects the empty shell,
cocks the hammer and feeds a fresh cartridge from the magazine int<^ *he
chamber, leaving the rifle ready to shoot upon the operator's pulli *' e
trigger. The operation of this rifle should not be confounded wit, ;'c
of machine guns, which reload and fire to the extent of their maga.- :.e
capacity without stopping after the trigger is first pulled. In using the
Winchester Self-Loading Rifle, it is absolutely necessary to pull the
trigger for each shot, which places its operation as completely under the
control of the.operator as that of any repeating rifle. The self-loading
system permits rapid shooting with great accuracy, and on account of
the ease and novelty of its operation adds much to the pleasure of rifle
shooting, either at target or game. The list price of the standard rifle of
this model is $28.00.
32 WINCH ESTER
, SELF LOADING
<=OFT POINT
JU'JHMl^iJ:^
SOFT POINT/
SOFT POINT OR FULL METAL
PATCHED, LIST PRICE PER 1000
$27.00
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THE NATION BACK OF US, THE WORLD IN FRONT
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OufWeST
Vol. XXV, No. 1
JULY, 1906
the: making or a great mine
By SHARLOT M. HALL
THIRTY years is no long space to lie between a cliff-
rimmed peak shadowing a deep, cleft canon, ribbed
back and forth with huge, ragged dykes of "country
rock," and one of the great mines of the world ; yet
a little less than this lies between the busy works of
the United Verde Copper Company at Jerome, Arizona, and the
silent canon where the Indian women came to dye their basket-reeds
and to snare wild pigeons.
Over-towered by the smelter and the foundry, a big, black spur of
rock still stands half-buried in slag; from its base a little thread of
copper-stained water used to run down the canon, coloring the
sticks and pebbles along its way a dull yellow. The basket-weavers
soak their materials — threads of bear grass, slender withes of split
mesquite and "cat-claw," or even small Cottonwood twigs cut in
narrow strips — in water, to make them tough and pliant. Those
soaked in the little stream came out a dull, permanent yellow that
made a beautiful background for the shining black strands of the
"Devil's claw" with which the patterns were worked. Scraps of the
coarse, unbleached muslin issued by the traders, came out of the
water the same deep, dull yellow — copperas dyed. So the little
spring became a regular summer camping ground for the Tonto-
Apaches, and the brown dykes saw many a band wind up the canon,
turn the prunes loose to graze on the brush-covered slopes, and go
into camp for the basket-making. There was much bear-grass along
the foothills, and slender, supple mesquite branches, tied in bundles,
were brought Up from the river-bottom to be soaked, split, and re-
soaked for the dyeing.
Once, when the Tontos came as usual to the "Place of the Bitter
Water." a white man came with them — \1 Sieber, later Chief of
Scouts under General Crook. Far below the present mine, the
little stream passed over a ledge of lime rock, and had built up
Illiifttrationk are from photogrnphft by M. F. Brennan. Jerome, Arizona.
Copyright 1906, mi Out West Maoazinc Co. All Right* Rcscrvcd
4 OUT WEST
through uncounted years a rich deposit of copper. To this Sieber
came again with George B. Kell and made a location, calling it the
Copper Queen ; and here, long after, a quantity of rich ore was
taken out.
Sieber and Kell and George W. Hull were probably the first pros-
pectors to follow the little thread of colored water up to the cliff-
rimmed peak ; though as early as 1858, renegade Mexicans, return-
ing from more or less willing captivity with the Indians of the
mountains, brought word to Charles D. Poston, in his little kingdom
at Tubac, of rich gold and silver and copper in the hills along the
headwaters of the Verde river.
After Sieber and Kell and Hull came others along the same trail ;
for it was the water nearest to the sprawling dykes flung like
weather-worn vertebrae across the canons where the Black Hills
break down sharply to the narrow valley of the Verde River.
Although the bitter, copper-stained water was their guide, it was
not copper those early prospectors looked for. The day of the red
metal was yet to come ; the silver bonanzas were still yielding their
easy millions, and the gold and silver in the out-croppings led to the
first locations.
Among those early comers were Captain Boyd, whose white hair
and erect figure may still be seen on the streets of Jerome ; Angus
McKinnon, a persistent, raw-boned Scotchman ; and M. A. Ruffner.
McKinnon seems to have been the first to suspect the possibility of
rich copper values — a suspicion based, perhaps, on the richness of
the newly-opened Clifton district in Southeastern Arizona. He ex-
tended his locations and tried to enlist outside capital in devloping
the section, but not until 1882, when Frederick A. Tritle became
sixth governor of Arizona, was he successful.
Governor Tritle had taken his mining degree in Nevada with
the famous silver kings, and his faith in the mineral wealth of his
new territory was prophetic. Almost at once he employed an expe-
rienced mining man, F. F. Thomas, to look up desirable properties
for him. In Prescott Mr. Thomas met Angus McKinnon and heard
of the big dykes and copper-stained water of Bitter Creek Canon.
The property lay in one of the most rugged and inaccessible cor-
ners of the Black Hills range, about twenty-five miles from Pres-
cott. The only wagon road, the road to the old government lime-
pits in Yaeger Canon, stopped at the foot of the mountain, and the
trail on over the peaks was little more than a foothold for deer and
big-horn sheep. Thomas and McKinnon had to dismount and lead
their ponies more than once before they reached the summit and
looked down into the green canon where today the smoke hangs
in an ever-renewing cloud, and the roar of machinery comes up
dulled bv the distance.
THE MAKING OF A GREAT MINE 5
Even with the crude development possible where every pound of
food and powder and drill steel and every tool came in on pack-
horses, the claim looked promising. Mr. Thomas was interested to
prospect it further. He took a bond on the McKinnon property
and gradually acquired control of all the claims in the vicinity, eleven
in all. including the rich Eureka property which had passed into
the hands of Charles Lennig, of Philadelphia. The idea of consol-
idation was borrowed from Nevada, and the name of United Verde
chosen for the entire property.
Capital did not pour readily into a land of but two railroads, and
those the mere crossing of transcontinental lines, whose last rails
were scarcely spiked. Hitherto Arizona had looked to two sources,
New York and London, for help in unlocking the strong boxes of her
hills ; now again New York was to contribute — but only after some
months of persistent effort on the part of Mr. Thomas. Ultimately
a company was formed which included Edward S. Searles, W. B.
Murray, Eugene Jerome, James A. McDonald, and others. Mr.
McDonald was made president, and Jerome secretary and treasurer
of the company.
Before leaving the East Mr. Thomas ordered two water-jackets and
such other machinery as was needed for reducing the ores. Com-
ing back to the new camp, he built a wagon road over the moun-
tain, connecting with the road to Prescott — a road for years famous
for its long, high grades and beautiful scenery — and surveyed a
town-site below the mines and named it Jerome in honor of the
secretary-treasurer.
The small jackets were sufficient to prove the value of the ore
and a fifty-ton furnace was built and made a remarkable run on the
rich oxidized ores near the surface. But the course of mine-making
runs as a rule anything but smooth. Dissensions arose in the com-
pany, copper took a phenomenal drop in value, and the smelter and
mine were shut down, with still no realization on the part of the
owners of the richness and extent of the ore bodies.
In 1888 the property was leased to W. A. Clark of Montana,
whose previous experience in copper mining fitted him to appreciate
the jH)ssibilities of the United Verde claims. The following year
he become chief owner; and from this time dates the fuller develop-
ment of the great mine.
Progress was handicapped by the broken and precipitous charac-
ter of the mountain-side on which the claims were located, and
the difficulty of transportation. For a time supplies were freighted
in with mule-teams over the rough mountain-road from Ash Pork,
on the lately completed Atlantic and Pacific railmad. sixty or seventy
miles to the north.
When the grade over the mountains connecting the camp with
6 OUT WEST
Prescott, was opened for wagons, the problem was lessened, but not
solved. The steep ascents and downward plunges became the
freighter's anathema;- summer rains and winter snows swept out
sections entirely; and from the point where the road turned down
the mountain more than one burro, loaded from hoofs to ears with
cordwood, lost his balance in giving right of way to the freight
wagons and rolled comfortably into the smelter grounds some hun-
dreds of yards below.
In 1894, the United Verde railroad was completed — a narrow-
gauge line connecting the mine with the outside world at Jerome
Junction, fourteen miles distant. This road, built at an approximate
cost of $25,000 per mile, has in its short length 186 curves, two of
forty-five degrees, and several of forty. Its maximum grades are
four per cent, and all the freight that passes over it must be re-
loaded; but through it the smelter and mine have grown to present
proportions.
The rugged, rock-bound mountain-side, with its saw-toothed
ledges criss-crossing everywhere, is bare of the shrubs and grass that
clothed it in the day of the Indian and the prospector. Along the
summit, dry skeletons of trees stand out ; their bare limbs wrapped
in the shimmering arsenic smoke which discharges constantly from
the big, black pipe that crawls snake-like up the ledges from the
smelter.
The huge central smoke-stack belches its unvarying volume of
thick, black smoke, and the lesser stacks send long scarfs of blue
vapor wavering across the narrow canon space where the smelter
stands, like some Vulcan's workship, on a black slag-dump of its
own building. As the dark mass, suggestive of the off-scourings of
a volcano, grows, the works have so much more elbow-room ; but
just now some of the pile is being fed back into the mine through
a tunnel-like uplift and used to fill in old workings — like a beggar
returning empty-handed to the home out of which he went with a
full purse.
There are shallow excavations and small, dark openings along the
mountain-side, and here and there a thread of greenish quartz or an
ooze of copper-stained water; but little, even in the hoist-house, to
suggest the nearness of a great mine. The hoist-engine, one of the
largest in the Southwest, throbs and purrs steadily ; the bells clang
their incessant orders to the engineer; the hand on the big dial,
which registers the whereabouts of the moving cage, sways back
and forth ; and the cages go up and down loaded with ore cars, full
or empty, or with men ; yet there is little hint that all this activity is
rooted deep in the heart of the earth.
Stepping on the cage, with the "man aboard" signal to the engi-
neer, the sunlight falls away ; dim, rough-timbered walls, gleaming
Changing Shift at thk Main Shaft of the United Vkkdi:
8 OUT WEST
with drops of yellow moisture, press close on all sides ; the darkness
is broken now and again by the flash of electric lights and some
swift glimpse of long levels, with ore cars waiting.
When the cage stops at last at the main station of the nine-hun-
dred-foot level, it might be the gathering hall of some medieval
castle — a large, square room, beamed with great tree-trunks, roughly
squared ; dim-lighted, cool, silent with the silence of the under-
world that no roar of machinery can break ; lines of cars piled high
with ore waiting to see the sunlight and be tried with fire ; low
doorways leading off into narrow openings beamed and braced with
thick timbers ; and men with dark, begrimed faces going in and out
— gnomes, guardians of the Rhine-gold.
Car-tracks lead into each drift or stope, and in places the candles
show the iron rails corroded with the drip of the copper-charged
water and covered with a reddish slime precipitated from it and
rich in pure copper. At points where the percentage of copper in
solution is highest, the rails have to be renewed frequently and other
iron fittings are given what protection is possible.
The shoes of the miners are rapidly rotted to pieces, and clothing
is rotted and discolored. Sometimes a rippling stream of deep green
water flows along the side-wall of the tunnel, and again moss-like
incrustations, like rich-colored jewels, show along the timbers.
In places, great masses of blue-and-green crystals hang down,
dripping with drops of bright-colored water and sparkling in the
light with wonderful, rich-tinted icicles or frost work — blue and
green vitriol formed in a few weeks' time from the heavily charged
water.
Everywhere-H:he walls are timbered to within a short distance
of the work in progress ; held up by great beams and column-like
stulls ; a forest under-ground — millions of feet of yellow pine from
the mountains of Northern Arizona, buried forever. As if for
everything that she yielded from her under-world treasure-vaults,
Nature compelled an equal tribute from the surface — forest for shin-
ing ore, human life for the pliant metal.
The method of mine-timbering might furnish needed lessons to
above-ground builders. Nothing inadequate here, nothing bungled
or ill-done or unnecessary ; every inch of wood serving a purpose,
and yet a dignity of line and a massive harmony seldom seen in
public or private buildings.
The whole mine is mapped and platted as carefully as the blocks
of a great city. Every level has its own page in the big book in the
office above, added to as the work progresses ; a perfect record of
old and new — exhausted, waste-filled, lean, rich, drift, stope, tunnel
— every foot accounted for.
The superintendent, with quiet efficiency in every glance, knows
THE MAKING OF A GREAT MINE 9
the intricate system of workings as a man knows his own street;
weighs the probabilities beyond every drill-hole, and plans months
ahead his orderly exploitation of the hidden wealth of the mountain.
At the end of the drifts and in the stopes, the naked walls shine
in the candle-light ; here barren slate, there ore, sparkling, deep-
streaked with threaded yellow veins that gleam like gold — copper
sulpurets ; again, black, massy, iron pyrites, and nearer the surface
oxide ores dull-hued but rich.
The machine-drills spitting a stream of sparks like fire-works cut
into the walls ; a dozen holes and more that loaded with "giant" will
throw out carloads of ore.
In one dim, quiet drift the diamond drill purrs softly as its black
teeth eat into the virgin rock, throwing back its smooth, round
"core"' impatiently, greedy for the richness that may be ahead. It
is the pathfinder, seeking out new tracks for the drifts to follow,
mapping barren sections as an explorer maps the desert. Whatever
ore is in its track is shown in the slim, round core which it brings
out. and which is assayed daily ; so that what lies beyond a thousand
feet of solid rock may be known and recorded, avoided or sought as
its value demands. The ore lies in deposits large and small, not in
regular veins, and it is "like drilling through a fruit-cake to strike
the raisins," as the man at the drill expressed it.
Much of the ore in the mine is rich in sulphur, and this sulphur
is exceedingly sensitive to heat. The friction of ore-masses against
each other, as in slides and caves, may cause, has caused more than
once, spontaneous combustion. Sections of the mine have burned
for years and are yet on fire, bulkheaded strongly from the open
workings, that the fire may die out for lack of air. There are
places where the rocks are hot to the hand, and the atmosphere
suggestive of a Turkish bath ; where the air is pungent with warm
wood- and earth-smells; but for the most part it is cleaner and
pleasanter to breathe than at the surface. Rig fans, operated by
compressed air. sweep fresh air into every part and air-shafts draw
out the powder-smoke that would linger.
From the 500- foot level a tunnel goes out to daylight in a deep,
rocky canon below the mine, and through it motor-engines whirl car-
loads of ore to the roasting pits along the hillsides beyond the
tunnel-mouth.
Too much sulphur makes hard work for the smelter, and it is a
matter of economy that some of the ore give up its evil-smelling
component in the big, open pits rather than in the furnao
The pit beds an- graded out along the hill sides, for there is not
level land enough anywhere near the mine "to whip a dog 011."
Hen- the ore is burned to a clinker-looking mass BUggestive of vol-
canic refiw. Each bed is about fifty feet by t went \ -five, spread
IO
OUT WES T
Slag Dump
Main Hoist
Steel Wood Chute
over on the bottom with an evenly disposed layer of cedar-wood.
One-fourth the pit width is laid at a time, the wood brought
down from the end of the long steel wood-chute, which drops down
the mountain from the railroad track like a huge, uninviting tobog-
gan slide, by the familiar burro train. The motor cars whirl the
ore alongside, and it is piled in orderly layers, rounded into a high-
topped mound at last and covered smoothly with a blanket of finely
crushed ore.
The pits have an under-draft and are fired from below. When the
sulphur once catches, the burning goes on till the last trace of it is
expelled— four months on an average. The steamy white smoke,
green and yellow tinged, rises in a dull, inert cloud — pungent,
choking, but beautiful when seen from a distance. The wind drifts
it down into the river valley and across the canon, where it lies like
shimmering, stagnant water.
Rich yellow and greenish incrustations of sulphur grow like
mosses along the roasting pit, and at last the whole heap changes
from the greenish gray of the raw ore to a deep, mottled lava-brown.
The cold pits show slag-like masses of rock or glittering blocks of
ore jewelled with crystals in peacock hues. The pale gleam of iron
pyrites has deepened to rich films of purplish rainbow color, and, as
crowbar and powder break down the pile, rare flashes of light play
through and through.
This roasted ore goes back on the motor-cars to the main station
THE MAKING OF A GREAT MINE
Roasting Pits Precipitation Fi,umes
of the 500-foot level and up by hoist to the big iron storage-bins at
the mine-mouth. Here at the ore bins the smelting really begins;
for on the proper blending of the "charge" depends the success of the
matte and the activity of the furnace.
Four grades of ore come out of the mine, and the trick is to use
them so that each shall check the refractory tendencies of its
fellows and find its own lack supplied. The silicious must hold the
iron- and sulphur-charged ores in check ; the sulphides must blend
with oxides and silicious to form the matte, and all must have their
quota of lime rock.
There is a touch of alchemy, of mystery in it. Thirty, forty years
ago, most of this ore would have been held worthless because "stub-
born" — overcharged with sulphur, or iron, or silica. It would
have taken two months or more to bring the most docile of it to
copper bars. Now a car of ore may leave the deepest level of the
mine and in two or three hours discharge its metal into the moulds,
while the waste glows and cools on the slag-dump. The great
smelter is itself not unlike some wizard's workshop, and the keen-
eyed, watchful manager, who for eleven years has studied the output
of this one mine, till he knows its closest secrets, is the master
alchemist.
At the big iron ore-bins, huge doors, in sets of five, wait till the
motor-engine whirls the empty cars into place below. Then they
"pen at a touch, and just so much ore falls — silicious; on to the next
THE MAKING OF A GREAT MINE 13
five, and oxide ore joins the blend ; on now for raw iron pyrites ;
for "roast." shining from its trial in the pits below ; for the massy
"black ore," which is iron, too, but darker and richer than the first ;
then for the white topping of egg-sized lime rock, and back to the
feeding-floor, where the hungry furnaces wait.
The condition of the furnace governs the blend ; if the matte is low
and the molten silicious ore is given to sticking to the sides or throat
of the furnace — "freezing," in smelter parlance — an over-plus of raw
iron goes in, she responds to the "doping" or "washing-out" (a
furnace, like a ship, is always she), and things are right again,
i And it "she" doesn't respond, which has happened elsewhere, that
sullen, glowing mass settles into the throat, shutting off the blast,
and has to cool and harden and be broken with hammers and pried
out with crowbars before things are right.)
But now the motor slides the train of ore in to the feeding-floor,
two cars line up ready, and the big, stolid iron doors on one side of
the furnace open. Down in the deep red throat a mass of gold and
red is smoldering and glowing, poked and prodded with long iron
bars if it shows any inclination to "freeze." Exquisite, pale, clean
flames play over it, and tiny sparks like a sprinkle of star dust.
As the new "charge" slides in, bright vapors and rich-colored
fumes leap up, stifling but beautiful. The doors shut, the charge is
repeated on the opposite side, coke is spread over the top and four
cars, fourteen tons, of ore are left to smoulder and burn into
matte.
A furnace may be fed with judicious bleudings of ore for from
forty to sixty days ; then it is allowed to cool, the clinkers and
waste are removed from the bottom, it is washed out, repaired if need
be, and set to work again. Three of the four furnaces here are
always in blast, with alternate seasons when the fourth is being
cleaned.
\> the ore mattes and settles in the furnace, a molten stream,
rich and glowing, flows into the settler below, where the copper,
being heavier, sinks to the bottom and the waste runs over in its own
channel into the big iron slag-pots, like giant cauldrons on wheels,
and is whirled away by the tireless motors and poured in a long,
Stream over the cold black edge of the ever-growing dump.
When the molten copper is ready to be taken from the settler,
"tapped" as is said, a long iron bar is driven into a small opening
just above a narrow little channel or sluiceway leading off to a pit
in which a ten-ton dipper is waiting to hold this fiery wine. As
the bar breaks through the breast or "tap- jacket." golden drops
spurt out. and following the withdrawn bar a swift. gleaming red
stream flowing in haste to the big black dipper.
When the cup is full, the smelter Hercules, the ponderous travel-
THE MAKING OF A GREAT MINE 15
ing crane, rolls noiselessly along, drops two huge chain-arms with
hooks of strongest Norway iron at the end, and the gold-brimmed
cup is swung lightly into position before the converter-mouth and
drained at one draught down the clay-lined throat.
This golden, shimmering liquid is now from thirty to forty per
cent copper, but the ore-waste must still be blown away by the
powerful air-blast sent tirelessly from the great engines in the
power-house. The mass bubbles and boils, the clay throat glows
deeper and deeper, wavering, rich-hued flame-vapors play over it,
and golden drops flung up by the blast fly above the converter-
mouth like falling stars.
A man on guard dips a long, trident-toothed iron bar into the
converter-mouth, and from the adhering threads of metal knows just
when the slag must be poured off, leaving the copper again behind in
the bottom. At the right moment the converter tips gently on its
side and the great ladle is brimmed with liquid rock, sputtering and
steaming, as if reluctant to leave its richer comrade ; the crane
lifts again, and the ladle is emptied down a channel leading to the
slag-pots.
The copper left is now about seventy-five per cent pure, but
again the blast is turned on, and the bubbling mass passes from
blue copper to white and on to something more than 99 per cent
pure. The flame that shimmers over it is pale and clean, and the
surface smooth like oiled water.
When this purity is reached the long, narrow car carrying the
thick iron molds is pushed under the converter; again the big
vessel tips and a pure, white-lighted stream flows into the pan-like
receptacles. It leaps and boils as it strikes the cool iron ; drops fly
up like burning rain, and for an instant the full mold heaves and
writhes as if some living thing struggled in it. Then the rich gold
surface deepens to glowing red and dulls to wine, wrinkling over
with an oddly roughened crust like faded garnets.
It is like watching world-making in miniature. So this cold,
stable earth must once have glowed and shimmered, and not unlike
this, perhaps, the first crust settled over its surface.
When the copper cools the molds are turned bottom-side-up, and
the cakes of metal pried out — pure "blister-copper," showing an
interior blister, or hollow toward which the gold and silver values
tend to gather, and a surface wrinkled and dulled in color but beauti-
ful in its soft-blended metal hues.
Other cars wait and the cold bars, weighing approximately 400
pounds each, are hurried away to the testing-room, where every
tenth bar is drilled through the center and the filings assayed that
the purity may not vary. Then up an incline to the railroad track —
and the metal that was so lately ore is ready to start across the conti-
THE MAKING OF ./ GREAT MINE
»7
nent to the refineries of the Atlantic coast. Refined copper was
formerly made here: but it can be done at less expense elsewhere,
and the entire output is now shipped in the crude bars.
Back in the smoke-wrapped smelter, where the big blasts beat
like some eternal pulse, much is going on. At the upper end, the
converters are being lined and dried ready for service. It is these
big Bessemer converters that have revolutionized the production of
copper and made possible the reduction of low-grade ores. By their
use the process of making metallic copper is shortened from two or
three months to as many hours, and ores once almost valueless yield
profitable returns.
The converters are a little like sonic giant dinner-pot with thick
Running Coppkb
iron sides and lid. The lid is lifted off, an oblong iron mold set
into the converter, and the space between mold and sides packed
full of specially prepared ground silica and fire-clay, and fire-resist-
ent. dull red magnesite bricks from Austria.
The lining must be put in carefully, well-mixed, well-tamped, ii"
weak spots, tin- air holes ;it the back properly opened; then the lid
is lifted on. clamped in place, and a man going inside lines it even
more carefully. It thifi work is badly done, trouble and danger will
t ; and if the lined converter is not well dried out. the hot matte
striking it will cause a terrible explosion.
When the lining is done, the crane lifts the converter in place for
drying, a fire of wood and coal is made down in the clay-padded
maw. and an air current turned on from the blast engines. In all
THE MAKING OF A GREAT MINE 19
the big plant there is but one thing more beautiful than the drying
converters, and that is the pure copper as it leaps and boils in the
molds the first moment before it dulls from gold to wine and
garnet.
The converters are set in rows and the flames shoot up the narrow
iron throats in splendor, leaping, waving lines like flags caught in a
rising wind. They swing and sway and climb higher with wonder-
ful, ever-changing colors and shapes, till it is as if each were alive
and struggling to be free of some chain. At night, against the black
bulk of the works with the dark mountain-wall behind and the dim
figures of the men moving about, the effect is weird and beautiful
indeed.
The flames purr softly as they climb and swing above the edge,
the big, clay-packed throats glow redder and redder, and below the
color deepens to a gorgeous gold, with a haze of gold-powdered
light over it all.
When the lining is dried perfectly, the fire dies down and goes out,
and the converter is ready for its charge of molten matte, one ladle-
ful to begin with, more as the iron of the ore eats away the silica
of the lining and enlarges the interior chamber.
Down below the converters and across the smelter from the other
furnaces, is a furnace of a different type and set to a peculiarly
interesting use. It is a reverberatory furnace fired with crude oil,
and in it the flue-dust from the other furnaces is reduced to copper.
This dust is caught in a specially designed dust-chamber, through
which the furnace smoke circulates before it is allowed to escape
through the central smoke-stack.
Before this system was installed, the flue-cinders fell all about the
smelter and town and carried away a good bit of copper and much
silver, besides being a source of unwelcome dirt. In the first year
this interesting plant had paid its cost and the smelter grounds are
now free of smoke-dust.
With this coarse black dust is used another product of the mine,
«vcn more interesting. From two levels, the 300- and 500-foot,
tunnels extend out to the surface and through these flow streams of
greenish, copper-charged water. The water is led through more
than a mile of sluiceways, narrow wooden boxes, filled with scrap-
iron, tin cans, and all sorts of iron waste. A clean knife-blade
thrust into the water and held a moment becomes coated with copper.
More slowly a deposil settles on the rusty iron, turning it a bright,
gleaming copper in spots and covering it with a red slime, till at
last the iron decomposes and disappears entirely.
Each day's deposit is brushed and scraped off the iron and sinks
to the bottom of the sluiceway, where it is swept up (the water being
temporarily diverted) and spread OH a platform to dry.
zo OUT WEST
This coarse-grained reddish sand, as it looks to the eye, is 80 per
cent copper, and mixed with the flue-dust, produces a matte of high
value. Many hundred tons of scrap-iron are eaten up in a year
by the green water ; small pieces are lost in a day or two, some of the
big ones may last for months. In the sluiceway He scraps of worn-
out engine fittings, rust-eaten rails from the bottom of the mine,
and worn street-car wheels from Los Angeles, all serving alike as
food for the hungry water.
Beyond the smelter is the power-house, full of the orderly rhythm
of many machines ; the air vibrates with a great harmony as of deep-
toned music; there is a rhythmic pulsation to the floor, the walls — â–
the body unconsciously yields to it. Here, if anywhere, a man
might sing the "Song o' Steam," for which McAndrews waited.
Thirteen 250-horse-power boilers, ranged in a double row mouth
to mouth with only feeding room between, chuckle and whisper to-
gether, knowing that without them the big plant is helpless. Out
of them comes the life of the fourteen engines, great and small, that
furnish compressed air, electricity, and air for the furnace- and con-
verter-blasts. Here is the largest blower in the Southwest, and a
second of like size is soon to be installed. As the capacity of the
smelter is increased, the power-plant grows.
So much machinery in constant use to its fullest capacity requires
that ample means of immediate repair be at hand. The foundry
supplies something of this ; here molds are made and many articles,
particularly for use about the smelter, cast out of iron ; but the cast-
steel fittings are shipped from the East.
In the big warehouse are stored in quantity the things most likely
to be needed in the ordinary routine — iron bars in many grades
and sizes, from all sorts of native to the finest Norway, used where
extreme strength is necessary ; parts of machines, valves, belts, bolts,
nuts ; rolls of copper wire, steel cable, fibre ropes ; sheets of thick
glass and piles of glass engine-tubes ; electrical repair stock of all
sorts ; all the means of meeting an emergency or tiding over a tem-
porary isolation from the outer world.
In one room are sacks of cement, more and more in use in mine
and smelter work, as in all modern construction where strength and
convenience join hands with economy. Here too are sacks of dull-
red flour-fine magnesite from Austria, and magnesite bricks for fur-
nace- and converter-lining, more fire-resistent than iron and costing
twenty-seven cents each laid down. Near them are sacks of fire-clay,
and cream-white fire-brick from Swansea in Wales — mother of mod-
ern smelting and training-school for some of the ablest smelter-
men, among them the superintendent of the United Verde plant.
In the blacksmith shop everything goes on, from tool-sharpening
for the miners to the making of the big converters ; compressed air,
THE MAKING OF A GREAT MIXE
like a captive Samson, cuts the huge sheets of iron, marks and
punches the holes, and drives the white-hot rivets home with a
hammer that seems a plaything but strikes the blows of a giant.
The whole plant could almost rise phoenix-like, not from its own
ashes, but from its own ware-house, foundry, and workshops.
When mining in the Southwest was new, the first question was,
"How far to water?*' A mine near to water was regarded with
suspicion, as too good to be true. The little copper-tinged spring-
where the Indian children had played was a good guide, but a poor
water supply. It still crawls out from under the huge slag-dump
and finds its way into its old bed in the canon, but not to play with
Hill's Canon, Kntrance To Hull Mink
Par' of the United Verde water supply is obtained here
the pebbles and dye the knotted bundles of basket reeds; now it is
caught like a truant and led to the sluiceway, where it gives un its
stolen copper among the rusty scrap-iron.
The water for the United Verde comes from other springs, the
most distant eleven miles away. It winds along the mountain-side
in big pipes into the line of storage-tanks set high above the plant
on a ledge scooped out and built up from the sheer wall of the near-
est peak. From the tanks it is distributed as necessity indicates.
and with economy : for only in seasons of unusual rainfall is there an
overplus. Much ingenuity has been displayed in husbanding the
supply, and in the big cooler and condenser, just completed, 3000
gallons of hot water is changed every minute to fairly cool; falling
THE MAKING OF A GREAT MINE
2 3
like a sheet of rain from a height of 63 feet through a series of
cunningly slanted shallow troughs into a tank below.
A great mine is like a principality with many dependencies that
exist because it does. There is no smiting the rock and idly watch-
ing a stream of marketable metal flow out. A dozen other indus-
tries must be created and brought to success, before the stability of
the central one is assured. Cities are created in the desert; springs
taught to rise above their source and discharge their waters into
strange and alien channels ; and railroads built where pack-trails
shirked to go — all that the rough, red bars may go out to the markets
of the world.
Tiik Montana
Hotel built for the miners by the United Verde Co.
The busy plant teeming with men and machinery, set in some
canon where lately the wild hawks nested, or oh some mountain-
side where the stone circles still mark the site of Indian wickiups,
mine timbers, steel, iron, food, housing, and human labor skilled and
is the center of a far-drawn activity. Coal, coke, wood, lumber,
unskilled, are drawn into this net of necessity.
Because the ore under some gaunt, barren mountain yields a cer-
tain per cent of copper, men thousands of miles distant shape raw-
iron into machinery, turn forests into cut lumber, and count tomor-
row's gains before today is ended. No less than other forms of
business, mining is dependent upon the entire country, as well as
upon one spot, and returns its benefits generally as well as locally.
The first and last impression at Jerome is of the tremendous energy
THE MAKING Of A GREAT MINE 2 5
that has created this hive of human activity on a barren mountain-
side — of the bringing together of so much from such widely-sepa-
rated sources. The mine was there, it is true; but it takes men,
many men, and much money, and more than men or money or both,
to create a great and well-ordered business.
Something more than i ioo men are employed by the United Verde
Company in the mine, smelter, workshops, and offices. A good per-
centage of the mine workers are Mexicans, Spaniards, Ausfrians,
and other foreigners, as in most large mines of the Southwest, and
Mexican helpers are used to some extent in the smelter, but the camp
is essentially '"white."
The productive life of the mine has not covered much more than
twenty years, and in that time it has added many millions of pounds
of copper to the world's store. The average recent production has
been near 4,000,000 pounds a month ; enough to give the mine place
with the seven or eight great mines of the world.
Jerome, the town which has grown up below the mine and smelter,
claims a population of 2000, and is a typical mining town, upturned
at a dizzy angle against the rocky mountain-side. Its main street
dips up and down across the gullies and in it two wagons could pass
for perhaps a hundred yards ; beyond that, it is as are all the other
strets, a narrow wagon-road graded out of the rocky hillside.
Burros loaded with firewood deliver their freight in backyards
to which they climb by stair-like trails ; delivery ponies, a boy in the
saddle and a big square basket on either side, bring the morning's
marketing up precipitous trails to sky-touching kitchen doors; and
the postman, riding along, drops a paper into the porch of the house
below and shoves another on the porch of the one above.
The pretty cottages built by the company line up along their
narrow terraces like rows of pigeons on a roof; but the big hotel
above, built by the company for its employees, loses none of its dig-
nity by nearness to the great mountain, and every house in the town
overlooks a view to be reckoned little lower than the Grand Canon
of the Colorado.
First, the swift dip of the foothills, then the flat green valley with
the Verde river, a hand-breadth of silver winding among its cotton-
woods; and beyond, the great walls wind- and sand-carved into a
thousand fantastic shapes, rich-dyed with shaded reds, the huge but-
tressed cliffs and deep-jawed canons of the Red Rocks. Back of
these the dark fringe of forest oil the Mogollon plateau and the noble.
snow-crowned bulk of the San Francisco peaks.
It is good at sunrise, when the smoke blown down from the
roasting-pits lies in the valley like opal-tinted water; better at sunset,
when deep blue and purple shadows gather in the canons, blurred
strangely into the red of the cliff-walls; best of all, on a moonless
night, when the slag-pots send swift, short-lived rivers of flame
sweeping over the black dump, and balls of fire go leaping into the
dark, smoke-filled canon below.
Then the muffled roar of the machinery, the dull glow of the burn-
ing converters, the steady pulse 6i the furnace-blasts speak a human
h — not of the copper that has conn- out or the gold that has gone
in. but of the lives that have made the great plant — and have been
made or unmade by it.
Dewey, Arliotia.
-n
2'/
AN ARCHXOLOGICAL WEDDING
JOURNEY
By THERESA RUSSELL
CHAPTER VII.
A LOCAL HABITATION
"The bed was made, the room was fit,
By punctual eve the stars were lit."
HE reason for the dismemberment was that we had found
the thing we long had sought — a ruin that looked
suspicious of harboring graveyards.
Out came the shovel and the pick, the measuring
rod and the camera. Up went the tents, and, presto,
there on the unblossoming desert had sprung forth a full-grown
Home. It was immediately as much at home as though its advent
had been awaited from the beginning. As though the cedars had
been growing all these years but to shade the little tents, whose new-
whiteness now shone so entrancingly against their encircling browns
and greens. As though tawny sands and sombre sage and rocks of
ecru and cream had been blending their harmony for its approving
delight. As though over these neutral shades had bent the brilliant
blue to brighten its monotony. As though the sunsets, practising
That Lookkd Sisi-kiois <>i- Hakhokjnc; (',ka\ i.vakks
AN ARC1LH0L0G1CAL WEDDING JOURNEY
29
for centuries, had perfected their splendor to bring to a triumphant
close its every day.
As for the day, one might not say which part of it were best —
whether the morning with its tonic air, the essence of wine inhaled ;
whether the glittering noon, when this same air at once quivers with
heat and trembles with the errant breeze, unfailing, cool and sweet,
as if it came from grottos and dripping, dim retreats; or yet the
twilight time, with its deep hush on earth and mystery on high;
or even yet the night, with stars shining so close you reach out for
them, for no smoke nor dust nor grime floats like a veil between
you and their light. Each yielded up its charm to us, and each in
its own speech said. "Welcome home!"
There was the thought, too, that it had been home in unknown
'A I'Yu.-r.ROWN Homk"
years gone by to this long-buried people. But though the Archaeolo-
gist may wear the flower of sentiment, its fragrance dissipates into
the atmosphere of sense, and Science holds full sway.
When we had first set up OUT tiny habitation and furnished it
with its bed of cedar boughs and Xavajo blankets, it- boxes of pro-
vision.--, trunks, tables and chairs ( '/. <\. things to sit on), we thought
its little space was pretty well utilized. But we discovered its capa-
city t-) be an cla>tic property. For, as the excavations progressed
and the ancient trophies were exhumed, it had to officiate as museum
also, until our valued specimen- wire like to turn ns out of QOUSC
and home.
No longer could we use empty boxes as chairs, but were obliged
disrespectfully to sit above the bones of the departed. Skulls
3°
O U T IV EST
"Consideration of their Cuisine "
grinned at us from every corner, and the floor was paved with
pottery. True, as a Nature-lover says, "A family which lives in a
tent never can have a skeleton in the closet," but this family had one
in the table. It did not disturb the family any, but caused gaping
consternation in Sliver, who stumbled upon it while hunting for
the bean bag, and occasioned his precipitate, retrogressive retirement
from the unholy scene. For, you must know, to his yet unenlight-
ened mind, anything dead is very bad medicine.
Mutton on the Hoof ' '
AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL WEDDING JOURNEY 31
This cast to his religious views of course prevented Sliver from
delving with a scientific spade, although his broad tolerance and
sophisticated commercialism permitted him to associate amiably with
those who did. The avenging gods would doubtless visit wrath
upon them, but anticipation of their Nemesis was the least of his
troubles. It was the consideration of their cuisine that chiefly
engaged his attention at this time. He had no objection to digging
a little pit in the ground for an oven to bake frijoles in. He enjoyed
negotiating with the passing shepherd for mutton on the hoof, that
the household might dine on the fat of the lamb. He boiled rice and
"Conventional Representations ok Birds and Animals"
made many biscuits. He hauled water from an arroyo six miles
away.
For. with all its preparation, our Promising Land had overlooked
the trifling matter of a centrally located, well-filled reservoir. But
even the most thoughtful foresight cannot be expected to include
. little detail; and for herself, the Desert doesn't think much
of water, anyway. The- fluid we secured with such effort was of a
rich tan shade, and had, as to taste, a soft, warm effect — very
pleasing, regarded as a bit of pastel.
But my religion was not like Sliver's, and 1 was glad to be given
a share in the archaeological gold mine; to be allowed to sift
sepulchral dirt for turquoise, arrow-heads and various relics; to
3 2
OUT WEST
clean up the vertebrae; to glue together the fragments of pottery;
to pack and catalogue the collection as it grew apace, and was boxed
up for the journey to its University home. The bowls and ollas,
particularly, were a joy forever, with their quaint shapes and geo-
metrical designs, or, perhaps, conventional representations of birds
and animals. Two color-schemes seemed to prevail, black and
white, and all shades of red, from terra cotta and maroon up to a
dull pink. Occasionally one would find a combination of red and
black; still more rarely, red and white.
And these, my small vocations, are just urgent enough to give
zest to dreaming while thev wait. For in this remote, self-sufficient
The Round Knob of a Hiij, "
world you come to grasp at that dolce far nicntc which must ever
be fruitage forbidden to the intimate, interdependent world you have
hitherto known. You may even postpone the making up of your
rolling bed by reason of your absorption in the morning tablecloth,
dwelling avidly on news you scorned to give time for perusal when
it really was news, months before — and nobody whispers that you
are a delinquent housekeeper.
Then, if you do have any troubles you want to forget, you can
become oblivious to them also by climbing the round knob of a hill
that forms a part of your front lawn, clambering on up to the top
of Nature's feudal, surrounding fortress, and looking around you.
You see illimitable plains, all chaotic with chasms and canadas, all
AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL WEDDING JOURNEY
33
"Mount Ziltagini "
wrinkled up into ridges and ravines, strewn with disorderly boul-
ders, and patched here and there by a vivid bit of Navajo corn.
Splashed, too, with shadows of clouds, wavering, shifting, vanish-
ing here, appearing there, as restless and as constant as the shadow
on the heart.
Illimitable Plains
34
OUT WEST
This, far and away. Then the delicate, evanescent outline of
Mount Ziltagini, tinted peaks and domes and terraces that can be
naught else but castles of Fairyland. It was from this little butte
of ours that we loved best to watch the sunsets. Sometimes the last
light of day was simply clear ; more often, a boasting fantasy, flash-
ing its glories east, north and south.
"Isn't it gorgeous?" I exclaimed, on one of these pyrotechnic
evenings.
"Sure," agreed the Anthropologist, "and the gorge goes all the
wav round."
"Approved by Everything Except the Facts"
Twice during our three weeks at home did we go visiting. Once
on a morning the Instigators enjoyed a twelve-mile tramp to call on
a neighboring ruin. And once the Bokodokleesh Canon party took
another horseback trip. What we went forth to see was an ancient
pueblo of good archaeological report. It was thirty-five miles away,
and that seemed plenty long enough for a summer-day's journey.
When the spring — which always means the goal of endeavor —
was reached at five o'clock, never did water taste so good. Though,
in fact, it was alkaline and not good at all. And never did the
ground — just plain old ground — feel so good. To lie stretched full
length on a bed of sand, with your head hanging over the root of
a pinon, and watch Sliver get supper — that was luxury in the
concrete.
AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL WEDDING JOURNEY 35
We had intended to see the sights and be gone early in the morn-
ing. Intentions are superfluous and might as well be mostly dis-
carded in the first place. To see the sights was easy, as they con-
sisted chiefly of landscape. It would have been an ideal site for an
archaeological camp — approved by everything except the facts. But
to be gone was not so easy, owing to the discovery that the White
Rat had taken it into his mulish pate to begone himself and do a little
nocturnal exploring all his own. Although his hobbled progress
had been conservative and slow, he had nevertheless covered ten
bountiful miles before Sliver and Bill — always poor, vicariously-
" Necessary to Take their Skimpv Shade in Rotation "
punished Bill — could overtake him and persuade him of the error
of his way.
Meantime the Instigators, having nothing to do but wait, sat in
the shade of the trees and speculated about Determination and Free
Will. "Trees" in the plural advisedly, for, although you could get
under one only at a time, owing to their unsocial distribution, it
was necessary to take their skimpy shade in rotation, if you would
avoid solar impertinence. Owing to her capers with Bill the day
before, the Tenderfoot was not able to accomplish these peregrina-
tions with that sweet, attractive grace supposedly bequeathed by
Mother Eve. Instead, she illustrated the evolutionary rather than
the theological theory, by reaching the erect posture through a slow
unfolding of humps. I Jut let us be an example, if not exemplary.
Starting late, therefore, we camped on the trail that night and
reached home next day in time for a bath before dinner. Xo, indeed,
36 OUT WEST
this was no oh-don't-mention-it occurrence. It was an Event. Dur-
ing our "pleasure exertion" (with thanks to Samantha), our ablu-
tions had been perforce mainly of the Christian Science description —
there wasn't any such thing.
Soon after this, two more events occurred. Secondly, we pulled
up stakes, folded our tents, and migrated to the next scientific
station. And firstly, our household suffered a subtraction. Nosifor
and the mules went home.
By reason of his self-saving disposition, this lad had not proven
an ardent archaeologist. Erminio, the awkward, hadn't a lazy bone
in his body ; Nosifor, the debonair, hadn't any other kind. It was
entertaining, though, that pathetic way of wiping hypothetical sweat
from his brow. We missed a few little tricks like that, but were
consoled by the fact that his companion, left alone, did as much
work in a day as the two of them had ever done together.
But be thou not offended, thou useless little Nosifor. There are
yet other factors of the human problem which may be eliminated and
still leave the sum total the same, or even greater than before. For
some there be who can be attached only by the minus sign, and
inevitably lessen the value of any proposition of which they form a
part. While some have the property of a plus prefix, and their
addition means increase, wherever they are placed.
And if both kinds were not necessary to make the equation work
out right, we may fairly take it that both would not be found in the
Great Arithmetic.
Stanford University.
a castle: IN SPAIN
By DAVID STARR JORDAN.
1KNOW a castle, in the Heart of Spain,
Builded of stone, as if to stand for aye,
With tile roof, red against the azure sky-
For skies are bluest in the Heart of Spain.
So fair a castle men build not again ;
'Neath its broad arches, in its courtyard fair,
And through its cloisters — open everywhere —
I wander as I will, in sun or rain.
Its inmost secrets unto me are known,
For mine the castle is. Nor mine alone ;
"Tis thine, dear heart, to have and hold alway.
Tis all the world's, likewise, as mine and thine ;
For whoso passes through its gates shall say,
"I dwelt within this castle — it is mine!"
37
ORLEANS INDIAN LEGENDS
By MELCENA BURNS DENNY
ATHERING Indian legends is much the same matter
as gathering Indian baskets. In some unguarded
moment one acquires a modest squaw-cap, and be-
hold, the seed of the collector's mania is planted.
One then buys baskets till he is ashamed to look
his Other One in the face. So, if any person with
a predisposition to care for such things hears a
legend from Indian lips, he is compelled by the
charm of it to beg for more, to coax, manipulate
and scheme till he has piled legend on legend. The
heart of every Indian who loafs the street becomes
a possible treasure-trove of folk lore — and the way to an Indian's
heart is hard and long, not always to be won by money, flattery,
or the flask.
Our mountains have many times opened their narrow trails to
men from distant colleges, who came, with their learning for a
reason, to listen to the simple stories of an inferior race. Too
often they have met hostile silence and suspicion, and in the end
the full measure of disappointment — for it is not always to the
worthy the stories fall. Here begins a series of legends that fell
to the unworthy, who liked them because they were stories fresh
from the lives of a people who for centuries have lived as brothers
with the shv wood-creatures the traditions are framed about.
Orleans Woman Makinu Baskkts
38
OUT WEST
Some Orleans Baskets
As in all western legends, the coyote is a favorite, a hero rascally
and boasting, but seldom cowardly. In the Scott Valley legends
he is Quatuk. Over the mountains at Orleans Bar he is Pee-
naaf-fich.
Sacramento, Cal.
the: legend or pain
EE-NAAF-FICH, the Coyote, heard of a country
where no one lived except bad people who loved to
hurt folks. So he said to the Eagle, "Let us go and
kill all the bad people in this distant valley we
hear about."
So he and the Eagle started out. They traveled and traveled
till they came to a valley thick with houses and full of people. It
was night-time when they got there.
They went into a house, and there were many people sitting
about. They talked in a friendly way to the Coyote and Eagle,
and invited them to sleep. But they knew better than to go to
sleep in such a place.
So the Coyote said : "We don't feel sleepy. We feel so good
we would like to make a big dance. Let us go outside and build
a big fire and dance."
Now it is a great thing to watch at a dance, and so while
the visitors made a big fire and painted for the dance, all the peo-
ple of the place began to gather together to watch. They sent
word everywhere, and by the time the fun began all the houses
were empty all over the valley, and the people were hurrying to
where the flames were shooting up in the midst of the village.
First the Coyote began to dance. Then the Eagle began to
dance. The Coyote leaped and the Eagle flew ; and both sang and
danced, and sang and danced. It was hard to tell which danced
the higher. It grew late in the night, and they kept on singing
and dancing, and singing and dancing, and all the people sat
Tin: Dance of thh Coyotk ash Bagli
4°
OUT WEST
still and watched. No one had ever looked on at a dance half
so fine.
After a while it grew cloudy up in the sky. Towards mid-
night snow began to fall. All the people just watched and
watched.
It snowed, and snowed, and snowed — dark snow, thick in the
air. The Eagle and the Coyote danced higher still. All the peo-
ple watched.
Soon the snow was up to the people's knees. Then it was up
to their hips. No one could quit watching the dance. Then
towards morning a big frost came.
The Eagle and Coyote just danced, and danced, and danced.
The frost grew so thick it was like a crust of ice. When it was
morning, and light enough to see, the two dancers saw they
could stop and rest. They rested beside the burnt-out fire. And
all around them the people clustered, watching and watching.
They sat straight and never lifted an arm, even when the dance
was finished. They were all wide-eyed and staring, and no
company ever sat so still. They were corpses, frozen in the snow.
The Coyote and the Eagle went around among them, laughing
and tapping each one on the head, to see if there was one alive.
Then they danced a little more for joy, for they thought that in
a single night the whole tribe of wicked people was killed off.
But there was one that they didn't know about, who had
crawled off to a house when he first began to freeze. The Eagle
and Coyote left the valley without finding him, and boasted to
all they met about what they had done. And this one man who
was left recovered, and has ever since been working out
vengeance for his people. He is Pain, and he never visits you but
you suffer. Sometimes he kills, but usually he prefers to take his
pleasure out of people first, so that really it seems as if it would
have been better had the Coyote and the Eagle left the wicked
people undisturbed. For those were the days before the change
in the world, when no man felt any torment, and a man could
even be killed and not suffer.
4»
SPRING IN THE SANTA CRUZ
By VIRGINIA GARLAND
j HAVE sought the Start of the earth, the Rising of
the sap and the green in the Santa Cruz.
There are always periods of the year which
unfold in the perfection of their ordained beauty
at some appointed auspicious spot. Through the
many lands in California I have looked for these
happy days, the culminative expression of the
season born into singing surroundings.
I would know all the ways of the California Open — the benison
of her every mood. Storms and their reveling centers ; silences and
their hushed over-stretches ; torrents, thunder and peace ; love time,
fruitage, calm, and the places where each tonic revival is spent.
Through arid lands and tropic, through frozen lands and mellow, I
am led. At times by those untamed ones who know all the runways
and the trails, oftener by the little winged guides — the birds. But
mine is the big wonder-world ; the unfathomable treasure world
where one may always find, and be lured always to deeper seeking.
You can make no soundings here ; for you are in a realm unbounded
and immeasurable. So, if I place the cradling of her fairest Spring
in the mountains of Santa Cruz, who knows? — next year she may
wave the glamour of some desert green in my eyes and I shall cry,
"Here blossoms the fairest Spring!"
In the moist, perennial green of the Santa Cruz highlands, one
would not look, perhaps, for the outdancing springtide green to
come so stirringly. Yet, in this deep, vernal freshness, with these
young-of-heart Evergreens that yield not to any ageing of Summer
or of Winter, with the frolicsome baby-green called out upon the
breast of ample and oft-tried green, you touch, not Spring's mantle,
but Spring Herself.
You are not over-awed by these mountains ; there are no un-
ending vistas that overpower the imagination. The summits, high
and dense in enormous Sequoias, slope down to your level. Over-
running luxuriousness goes with you companionably.
The birds have not that reticence which characterizes them in
sterner mountains. Every Chickadee is your friend. As you go
by the bush that shadows them, the Spurred Towhees do not cease
in their busy two-footed jump and lusty scratching. No feathered
wing holds you at too great a distance.
The attitude of the birds is also that of everything that grows.
The Manzanita — unlike the Manzanita of the Sierras, matted over
in gny expanse — grows openly here, showing plainly every wine-
brown, polished bough, spreading out confidently to sunlight and
shadow, turning every pretty, burnished branch to your view.
42 OUT WEST
From rising ground you see the slipping steel of the river, guard-
ed by the Alders, not jealously, but laced over delicately in smoky,
following march ; opening here and there to reveal their silver
and foam-white comrade, as she slips confidently among them.
With the beautiful, dapple-barked Chestnut Oaks, many of these
Alders hold all Winter long the Summer sunlight tissued deep in
shadow splashes on their columns, showing now, while branches are
bare, where once the thick canopy of leaves moved aside with the
breeze, letting flecks of sunlight burn down on their trunks.
One cold grey the Sierra Alders grow in Winter.
You look in vain for one gloomy tree. The Maple branches,
soft grey-purple ; the Black Willows, hung in fluffy, acacia-scented
catkins ; the Bay Tree, bright green, aromatic, scattered with creamy,
spicy flowering; the bare, silvery-limbed Sycamore, cutting across
the creek foliage like thick, forked lightning; the immense drooping
sprays of the Redwood, tinged cheerfully in minute, grainy russet
bloom, for all its gigantic size not approaching the infinite gravity of
the pines of the Sierras.
But if all the other trees stood in gloom, the Madrono alone would
fill the landscape with elastic, happy beauty. Far up the mountain
its red limbs gleam ; across every canon a satin-smoothed arm
stretches. Athwart the spaces of dusky groves its warm, mottled
boughs melt in the distance into shimmering pea-green, or color of
rose. Near your caressing hand a round bole is solid living velvet,
color of copper, surging under your fingers with buoyant sap.
As I rest by the roadside, leaning against a Redwood, a Scale
Bird darts out of the brush, crouches in the middle of the road,
looking up at me impishly and playful. Back it darts, to repeat its
antics as long as I stand there. I remember the shy bird of the
higher chaparral and smile at the difference.
There is no austerity, no subtle forbiddingness in tree or flower,
cliff or river, mountain top or woodland trail, bird or bee or cush-
ioned foot. All are cheerfully, accessibly yours. They meet you
half way, coquetting sometimes in retreat, but there again for your
closer study on the morrow. Unimpressionable, indeed, is one who
lets the life of the Coast Range slip past unnoticed.
To reach the glory of the Sierras, you must break through more
rigid barriers than these. But by the very contrast each of the two
ranges is enhanced in the comparison. If you have drawn the deep,
understanding breath in Alpine lands, you will clasp closer all the
Coast Ranges give ; you will strive with greater strength of soul
toward the towering heights of the Sierras, if you have lived joy-
ously in the heart of the Santa Cruz.
February comes in one warm, sweet rush. Yesterday the hazel
bushes were bunches of brown, switchy twigs. Today some odd,
SPRING IN THE SANTA CRUZ 43
open-meshed Japanese screen might be about them, hung as they are
with a straight, regular weaving of dripping catkins, a pendulous
rain of seed blossoms.
In this month the Alaska Thrush, here for the Winter, is still with
us. He has a great liking for round, grey stones, and will run
along a space before you until he comes to one. Standing there,
he keeps time to your steps with funny little, characteristic twitch
of the feet and upbeat of tail till you reach him ; then he lowers
his head and runs along, as if on wheels, close to the ground. His
indrawn '"chuck, chuck," is often heard ; sometimes his rare, reson-
ant song, just before he leaves in March for Alaska. The Varied
Robin, another northern bird, is here also; his long-drawn, mystic
strain I have heard at twilight.
The big Fox Sparrow keeps company with the California Towhee.
The Western Robin winters here, and some Warblers — Audubon's
and the Myrtle. I often come upon flocks of the brightly marked
Townsend's Warbler. The woods are merry with Nuthatches,
Creepers and Kinglets. The Titmouse comes up sometimes from
lower oak groves. The Western Bluebird is always here, fluttering
gently skyward from the meadowlands, connecting the dark green
spires of the Redwoods with a winged line of serene blue.
Once I found a Bluebird's feather, and again the feather of a
Bluejay, and laid them side by side. The same shade apparently,
yet what difference in the flight tone ! The blue of the Jay rises
iridescent, cutting its way. Swooping, steady wings cast off their
sheen almost harshly — sombre in the shadow, brilliant in the light,
scorning to match any other blue, to mingle with one azured tint of
the open.
The wing of the Bluebird takes the air gently, beating up softly —
drooping wing-strokes lightly fluttering, floating, calling, melting to
all the blue in earth and sky.
There are three birds singing now — the California Thrasher, the
Winter Wren, and Hutton's Vireo. These are resident. Not for
them the restless uprising of migration, the long journey over land
and sea. Brookdale is their home. Here they remain — travelling
still, I believe, in that quieter journeying we may all enjoy while yet
at home in one loved spot. For life revolves about all in infinite
change, if we but follow aright each moment's season and variety.
And so T know the Thrasher sees much more than the restless
Warblers, which flit from clime to clime, uncontemplative even on
the wing.
Hark! — some noise in the village — the creaking of oik Redwood
against another — the soft leap of the disappearing cottontail — the
quaver of the Flicker. Hear the Thrasher mingling them together
in marvelous mocking music, punctured by sudden pauses, heart-
44 OUT WEST
ripened. Now he is questioning me — "Brook-song, brooksong —
hear it now? hear it now? Ripple, ripple, ripple" — and jerks up,
emphatic and sweet — "Will you hear it now?" His meter goes
sometimes with the swing of a slender redwood shaft swaying in a
wide arc ; again with the mad twirling of a leaf the wind has caught
and will not let go. Wise singer ! He turns all his world to music.
Hutton's Vireo has a pretty, metallic song, long sustained, with-
out shading, reminding one of the fresh, vivid, one-toned green of
some leaves.
You are always astonished at the song of the Winter Wren,
never far away from an old log, into whose cavities he darts like
a wee rodent. It is as if a tiny brown mouse stood up to sing.
All shadings and dipping trills in his song — tender wood-tones —
deep, mossy shadows — quick outbursts of sunlight-sound, when a
sunbeam strikes down on the wee brown thing singing there big-
hearted before the door of his mossy log home.
All the birds here now are either resident, nesting early, or Winter
visitors, giving only a hint of their restrained rapture — choosing
Northern lands for their love-time. Not yet is the time of the
Spring migration. A few days more, and there will be a sudden
weaving of crossed flight, birds going north, Summer birds winging
in.
In the oaks and ceanothus bushes, the Bushtits, still in flock, are
hanging, lisping together a buzzing monotone. Their way is to
travel from one sunlit tree to another, each day over nearly the same
ground, following the sunshine as it slips from hill to ravine, tree
to tree, top to branch, branch to leaf ; trusting the sunlight to show
minute insect-eggs in all the crannies.
I stand high in the way of this passage, hoping the flock will
brush my shoulder if they chance to move toward the tree I have
selected as their next feeding-field. One flits out, quivers an instant
in air, drops head down on a swinging twig near me. The flock
trails after, settling in the oak I clasp like plump grey bees humming
over their findings. For a honeyed moment one clings to my sleeve,
wondering, no doubt, what kind of a branch I happen to be.
Birds have not always songs to give— gladness of color — labor of
useful bill — opening of beckoning new roads. But each is sure to
give something if you ask and listen, if it is only the gleam of a
startled pin-point eye — the cling of a tiny claw to your sleeve. Only
you must ask and listen ; not otherwise shall you hear a song, feel a
touch, nor know a bird-truth.
This is the time of leaf-blooming, as beautiful in itself as the later
flowering of petal and fruit. All eyes may see the gorgeously col-
ored blossom, or full-rounded fruit, but to see these first, fine leaflet-
flowers, in their more secret, myriad forms, one must get a bit nearer
SPRING IN THE SANTA CRUZ 45
to the great heart. There is no massing together now, no huddling
into green back-ground. Each leaf-shape dances forward, crisp and
uncrowded. Still there is the great tender blur of Spring over all,
which at times is difficult to penetrate. But stand a moment so —
alert and searching. Against brown and beryl openings, one by
one, etchings of leaves and bud-dotted twigs spring out to the sight.
Sparse ranks of bracken thread up in thin stalks, curled over tight
and fuzzily, scarce filling yet with visible growth the space they
stand in. Here a brown, swinging bough is lit with upstarting
leaf-points. A bank of laced twigs is decorated with clear-cut
leaves, laid flatly along the intertwining stems, or, in some vista be-
yond, fluttering leaves seem to poise and quiver without support.
Leaves everywhere, wonderfully cut and colored — old rose, soft
tan, magenta, grey-green and vivid, bloomed over with the faintest
suggestion of a shade, or so sparkling green you almost see the
color running. Of every conceivable shape — slashed to the stem in
slender segments, fashioned in flowing scalloped circles, notched in
odd, unique cutting. Sometimes a leaf partly folded like a hand, a
bright erect intersection out-pointing, a leafy finger directing the
sight to all the thousand-fold marvels to be seen on meadow and hill.
Ever)- wayside weed, that later may overgrow in scraggly, ragged
development, has its hour of undeniable beauty — if indeed it is
not always beautiful to the closest vision. Nettle and pigweed, hoar-
hound, sourgrass, old man and mallow, are spread in dainty, flat,
filigreed rosettes on the brown ground. These are mostly trampled
underfoot, unnoticed ; for one must have spent much time in the
Open to be able to separate and admire intricate hidden designs in
all the infinite variety of green that wraps the senses about in the
Spring woods. There is no flare of color about this lowly mat-
flower, changing into different, geometrically whorled outlines, until
the stalk shoots up from the centre. I lay my hand lovingly over
a pretty round of Alfilerilla. More dear to me is this humble plant
than the newest and costliest bloom that man has laid finger to.
And this small pattern in chickweed — perhaps it ripens and flings
wide its seed just for the finches.
From the matted undergrowth about the Redwoods, twining close
with the ferny Vancouveria, starred in pale lavender and in pink,
the Oxalis twinkles up at me. I sniff the incense of the Wild Cur-
rant, opening somewhere, unseen ; not for some weeks later will
its heavy pink sprays color the canons. A delicate powdering of
Mustard-bloom I glimpse below in warm lowland meadows. In
high ravines I come upon a few pure white Wake-robins, chaste, as
yet, of the kiss of fertilization ; no pink blushing ones, so lately have
they found the light. Stalks of Groundsel rise thickly from wet
ground. Brown, ribboned rushes push up close to these. If you
46 OUT WEST
are familiar with the succession of the wild flowers coming in the
Santa Cruz, you will hear these early ones say — ''Here I am! Next
week comes Wood Violet!" Or — "Manzanita is almost here!" Or
— "Azalea is coming on!" If you do not know the Coast Range
blooming, some day of the Spring and into the Summer, you will
happen upon the red flame of the Columbine, drooping over a
stream; or the Dogwood, spreading wide and white; the brilliant,
passionless erectness of the Tiger Lily, standing tall; rare, strange
Orchids, shining in cool glooms; the Mariposa, pulling at its moor-
ing in a highland meadow — and never having seen these before, you
will catch your breath in surprised delight that such things are.
In all these you will see, if you are worthy, not alone the luminous
light of a flowret, but the Light that illumes the Cosmic Flowering.
In the greyest days of February there are always bits of sunlight
in the open, where the river willows have put out curled-up, golden
catkins. You cannot see the shine of these sunny touches on a
bright and cloudless day ; they are absorbed, then, in the bigger light.
But let the sky close down, grey and rain-misted, then they come
out against the wet green of the woods in almost luminous gleaming.
The better part of the aroma of Spring is lost, unbreathed, undis-
covered, if one goes forth only to the sunshine. If your heart expe-
riences no desire for the warm, early storms, the big, level, soaking
days, the turbulent, wind-twisting downpours, the seeming ruthless-
ness of outrooting flood ; the gentle drip-drip of the rain-call — if
you cannot respond to these, and go with the great Response that
starts eager and strong with the might of eternities of Springing,
you will never know as you were meant to know the perfect sun-
filled day. You have not earned the right to bask and enjoy. If
you have looked askance on any hour that leads to days of full de-
light, just so much will be withheld from you. The flower you
stoop to gather, swinging in the golden light on a sunny slope, is
not wholly yours; some of its beauty must ever escape you, unless
you have gone with that which called it forth, which worked the
spell of its summoning from earth to air. Though you gather ft
lovingly, sketch it, name each part, cherish it and enjoy, still you
have not found all there is to consider in this lily of the field. L T ntil
the earth and the sky have stormed at you, called you through long,
grey hours, gone to the inmost heart of you as they have beaten
upon, summoned and thrilled to these petals, you are not yet sister
to this flower, nor of one blood with things that grow.
Watch the way a Madrono tree receives the rain, when it comes
down in one swift, fierce sheet. The broad leaves bounce up and
down in highest, springing delight; the gleaming body is banded
in liquid bark ; each leaf plays ball with the rain drops, tossing them
down with a musical splash to the next leaf; the whole tree seems
SPRING IN THE SANTA CRUZ M
to bound up, elastic, from the root. If you are standing near, you
cannot fail to be affected by what seems to be its laughter in the
rain.
A bird's wet wing flashes by. Another, and another. Gold-
finches, rising in happy, dipping flight, not one whit dashed by the
rain.
Look up the hill-slope, through the wavering, wind-blown vapor !
Color gleams to your eyes which nowhere else will meet them save
from a redwood slope seen through this wafting veil of moisture.
All the green is softened, misted ; all the brown brightened, bronzed ;
all the dull reds warmed and glowing; all the pale and hidden yellow
brought out vibrant, golden. Though your clothing is soaked, your
hair dripping, your face and lashes wet, yet are your own colors
brightened, your heart warmed through and through. The Spring
rain has found you ; its message you have not denied. You are
going to know the full rapture of brimming Summer, the strong
delight, the glory of days that are hastening on — and you stay out in
the gentle chastening of the rain, heart to hea'rt with Spring.
Stand anywhere, and listen ! You can hear the happy upward
striving, the pushing, the budding, the coming on. Sometimes, in
pure and silent moments, I can hear the voice of the hills singing, or
a leaf unfolding musically. Everything is meeting, mingling, melt-
ing, running together, forming anew.
All the birds are adding little love-thrills to their voices — with
some not yet a song, but a trembling undertone, held in rapturous
leash. Yesterday I caught the Bluejay practising a musical modifi-
cation of his strident call. When he saw me, he fell like a blue
rocket into the thicket, and screamed denial of his softer mood. But
I had heard, not to forget, and hereafter know him better. For we
do not really know a bird, or a bush, or a human, till we know of
each the love-side.
Everything is in love with everything else, all starting, springing
toward some love-goal. The Budding is upon us! Who can be
unseeking, unsinging, mute?
And if the Spring shall pass you (who have encased yourself in
house-walls), what wonder if some chance music of hers shall reach
you sadly? A vague distrust of yourself, pain of a longing you
cannot define, comes to you then with the young year. Conscious,
and yet unconscious, you feel your apartness from the vital soil, your
banishment from the starting earth, your exile from the loving
Spring.
Brookdale, Santa Cruz County.
— ^
»
+ 8
IN DEFENSE OF A LADY
By JUDITH GRAVES WALDO.
1ARRY DEXTER had shot a man in the Live and Let
Live saloon. Barry was very drunk, and so was the
man. The man had not liked his beer and had thrown
the heavy glass at the girl who had served him across
the bar. So Barry shot him. And because he had
once before shot a man and because of what had happened after,
Barry leaped through the crowd of miners and teamsters thronging
the room, into a passage at the rear of the saloon. He heard shots
fired as he leaped, and something stung his leg. Then he knew
that someone had slammed the door behind him and bolted it on
the inside, and he heard the crowd crash against it. Two minutes
were all Barry needed, and that gave him one. As he sprang
through the yard to his Indian pony at the trough, he heard the
crowd yell on the stairs leading to the rooms above the saloon, and,
fleeing down the stony road, Barry knew, in a dim way, that in that
crowd behind him someone was aiding him.
"Didn't need much time to lead that gang. They ain't on my
trail yet !" Just three minutes after the shooting, Barry turned
into the canon below the town.
"I'll double back on 'em and make a run for the hills. I can lead
that gang!" Barry laughed. But because the sound of flying
hoofs came too distinctly to his ear, he jumped suddenly to the
ground, hissed a command through his teeth that sent his little
beast springing up the steep trail, dropped to his hands and knees
and crawled away among the vocks and brush. And he heard the
hunt go by. Barry was very sober now.
"They knew I'd double back on 'em! Wonder what I'm in for?
They'll follow the pony, an' if she makes the Dagget road before
they catch her — an' she will — I'm safe."
He crawled ahead wearily until he reached the ore-dump of an
old deserted tunnel. Then he took off his boots and stepped into
the tunnel, feeling his way cautiously along by the walls. Occa-
sionally he knelt and stretched himself ahead, feeling for pitfalls,
and when he had gone into the mountain about two hundred feet,
he lighted a match and looked about him.
"It'll do," said Barry. He selected the corner of the tunnel least
cumbered with stones, drew on his boots, loosened his pistols, and
lay down and slept.
It was broad day when Barry crept to the mouth of the tunnel
again, and he knew he had slept long. He could see nothing but
the boulders and the sage-brush, and the great walls of streaked
rock across the canon. He did not dare go forward far enough to
IN DEFENSE OF A LADY. 49
look on the road below, but from time to time he could hear the
shouts of the teamsters, the chug of the great ore-wagons, and the
grind of the brakes on the down grades. Life was going on outside
the tunnel just the same. He groped his way back and tried to
sleep. He was hungry and very thirsty, and his leg hurt him. A
ball had torn the flesh just below the knee. He cut away the trousers
and bandaged the hurt as best he could with the strips of cloth. He
did not dare to smoke, and soon he could not sleep. He wondered
who the man was he had shot, and speculated as to whether his hand
had been steady enough to kill. And then, his ugly plight sweeping
over him, he cursed himself for "having defended the girl.
"Wouldn't ever have took notice if I'd a-been sober. Just be-
cause I was drunk I had to be a gentleman." And Barry crawled
to the light again. He could remember no one in the room that
he knew. Barry was from Dagget, and his best friends were not
in the Calico camp.
"If any of the boys 'ud been there they'd seen me through this.
Believe a real keen pard could hunt me out now."
And then Barry thought of the bolted door and the yelling crowd
on the stairs.
"Now, who done that? It must have been one of the boys was
there an' me not seen him!" Things were coming back to Barry
as the drink cleared from his brain, and the thought of someone
outside, maybe watching for the chance to bring him help, eased
his growing apprehension. He went back to the safer depth of the
tunnel and slept. His comfort was gone when he woke again, and
he felt so despairing that he came clear to the edge of the dump
and peered down on the road, but staggered back to the blackness
of the cave and did not venture out again, for two men were riding
up the trail, each with a Winchester across his saddle. Barry knew
they were coming for him, and, savage with fear and thirst, he
fixed his pistols ready and lay waiting, with his eye on the speck of
light at the tunnel's mouth.
After a while he slept again. When he woke there was no light
down the tunnel, and when he tried to crawl to the opening he was
too weak, and lay on his face, still clutching his pistols and wonder-
ing what had happened. Then suddenly a light came. The light
was on the front of a miner's hat. Barry could see that. He saw
a canteen, too, and then he saw nothing else. He tried to call
out, but could not, and sucked at his lips and tried again.
"Water," he said, "before you shoot!"
Someone said something and Barry felt the water on his face,
and a little, a few drops at a time, in his mouth. Suddenly he
made a lurch for the canteen, it slipped through his hands and he
sprawled on his face. The light was a long way off now and he
began to cry piteously.
5 o OUT WEST
"You keep your hands off and I'll come back," someone said.
Barry promised, sobbing. He was lifted and dragged up against
the wall of the tunnel, and given more water, and then food. After
that Barry slept.
When Barry again sat up and looked about him, he was not in
the place in which he had gone to sleep, but he did not know that.
There was a light at one side and he turned toward it. It was the
light he had seen on the front of the miner's hat. Barry remem-
bered. But now he heeded the person wearing it. It was the girl
he had defended. She sat against the wall, with her knees drawn
up in front of her and her arms clasped around them.
"Hallo !" said Barry.
"Hallo!' said the girl. "You better?"
"Was it you gave me the stuff?"
"Yes. You can have some more now." She came across to
him and put the canteen in his hands and he drank deeply. When
he had finished eating the meat and bread she gave him, Barry began
to wonder.
"Do they know where I am ?"
"No. They think you went Dagget way and struck the railroad
somewheres. Your pony made the home corral an' that threw them
off the track."
Barry laughed. "That's what I done it for. Knew she'd make
it. How'd you run across me?"
"I was looking. I thought, maybe, you might have dropped in
the canon, they was so close on you. I been looking some time and
today I saw fresh boot-marks on the dump when I happened up
here, an' so I tried the tunnel."
"You been lookin' for me?" Barry stared.
"Yep."
"Is it a big reward?"
The girl got up, stumbling about on the stones.
"How much?" said Barry.
"I never came for no reward !"
Barry stared again.
"Say, you never came because you thought you was anywise to
blame?"
"No, I wa'n't to blame. I was minding my own business." The
girl sat down again.
"Was it you bolted the door ?" Barry leaned forward with a gleam
of understanding in his face.
"Yep."
"And made 'em think I'd gone upstairs?"
"How'd you know that?"
IN DEFENSE OF A LADY. <n
"Heard 'em yelling like they'd got me an' knew they was led off
some ways."
The girl laughed.
"I just stood on the stairs and hollered: 'You shan't come here!
You shan't come here !' an', of course, they was just bound to come.
I thought you'd need a little time."
Barry wagged his head in admiration. But why had she done it?
''How long have I been here?"
"Three days."
"Must have slept through the first and clean round the night
again !" Then he laughed, a little ashamed. "Guess I was sleeping
it off."
"Yes," said the girl. Barry rallied.
"What's doing, anyhow?"
"Oh, they've got you posted everywhere an' a reward. Three
hundred."
Barry was chagrined. "That ain't enough to make the boys work !
No wonder I been starving here three days !"
The girl got up. "I'm going now." She brought from the dark-
ness another canteen. "I'll bring you some more grub soon 's I can,
an' in a week you can light out all right."
Barry stood up and leaned against the wall.
"You — I — you're awful good."
The girl turned to him, abashed.
"You was awful good to me."
"Me?"
"Men's been rude to me before, but no one ever did anything
about it." Barry laughed and slipped to the ground again.
"Lord bless you, girl, you don't need to think about that! I'd
never done it in the world if I'd been sober."
The girl started. "You — " she began.
"No, never'd noticed him in the world. Why, I have to be drunk,
an' mighty drunk too, to be a gentleman." And then he saw her
changed face under the flaring light and dragged himself up by the
wall.
"Did you really care that I dropped him over 'cause of that?"
"Yes, I did !" Her words came in a rush. "No one ever thought
it mattered before, an' you treated me like a lady, an' shot him right
down. An' they've had a heap more respect for me since, they
have! An' I — I've left that kind of work — an' all the time you
never meant it at all !"
"I did mean it — I do mean it !" Her passionate outburst throbbed
through him and her humiliation hurt.
"Oh, I'll take no favors !" Her eyes bit him. "You didn't mean
it ! Do you think I want you just to say you meant it ?"
52 OUT WEST
Barry groped for the wall. He felt a bit stunned. This was a
thing he could not cope with. He could not even look at her, for
the girl's eyes kept his down.
"I might have known you never meant it, or you'd staid and stuck
it out 'stead of — of sneaking." She flung off down the tunnel, vio-
lently swinging the empty canteen. " 'Spose you've been lying up
here cussin' yourself 'cause you done it, ain't you?" She did not
wait for his answer, but Barry was pulling himself together with a
mighty effort.
"Say, hold on, now — "
The girl turned her head. "Oh, you needn't be scairt. I won't
tell 'em where you are. The reward — ain't — big — enough!" But
Barry was up now and after her, groping and stumbling and swear-
ing steadily. Her injustice gave him strength as well as heart. He
had never thought that she might tell. When the girl was some
distance from the mouth of the tunnel she put out her lamp and
Barry saw there was no light from the opening. She had dared
to come to him only at night. Then it was that he discovered that
she must have carried or dragged him back from where his weari-
ness had left him to the safer distance at the end of the tunnel. He
dropped down where he was. Here was a fresh shame possessing
him.
"An' for a girl like that I couldn't make a lie that would hold!"
His soreness of mind was not lessened when he found that his wound
had been carefully dressed and bandaged.
"Done it while I slept an' hauled me back there an' — but what
was the use trying to lie with them eyes blazing your back hair off?
I don't suppose there's another girl like that — she knew I'd been
cussing myself for doing it! If I was to have the chance to do it
again, I'd mean it ! Mean it !" Barry rolled about in shame and dis-
may, for through the darkness he could still see the scorn that leaped
up at his easy lie.
All the next day Barry would not sleep, fearing the girl might
come back with more food, and he would miss her. Then he knew
she would not come. She could not, after the way he had treated
her. Then he would defend himself: "What did I do, anyhow,
to make her so thundering mad ! Mad 'cause I told the truth — mad
'cause I lied!" And Barry again went over every detail from the
night he entered the saloon and saw the girl behind the bar, until
the flicker of her light ceased down the tunnel. He tried to free
himself from her accusing eyes and vindicate himself, but could
not.
"It would 'a' gone better with her if I'd left out that lie. But
it come to me like it was no lie. With her a-quivering there before
IN DEFENSE OF A LADY. 53
me, I'd swore to myself I'd meant it. Did mean it. Don't believe
I was so awful drunk, anyhow !"
At night he slept, being too exhausted to keep awake, and when
he made his way to the opening again the first streaks of day were
lighting the great walls across the canon. He staid there until the
sun was well up and the halloos of the teamsters came to him from
the road below. As he returned, about half way down the tunnel,
he stumbled over something that made him stoop quickly and strike
a match. He had kicked against a canteen of fresh water, and by
it was a miner's dinner-pail of food. He carried them to the end
of the tunnel. The care with which the food had been put up and
its abundance took away his last shred of fortitude and Barry sniv-
eled.
"Now, ain't that just like a woman ! Mad enough to cuss you, but
caring for you just so long as you need 'er. An' I couldn't tell a
lie to hold !"
And then Barry had a new thought.
"If I meant it, she said, I'd stuck it out. Wonder if I would?
It was the respect she was caring about. Oh, I seen that quick
enough ! She never flung an eye to me ! If I'd a-stayed and stood
trial — wonder if that fellow got up? Never asked her! Guess my
hand was pretty steady — if I'd stuck it out — " Barry stopped eat-
ing and put his bread and meat in the pail. "I guess that's so about
me. If I'd stuck it out, they'd knowed, everybody 'd knowed — she'd
knowed I meant it." Barry stood up, suddenly strong with the
great purpose beating through him. It was not too late. He
could yet clear himself, glorify himself, before her and give her that
precious thing, respect, which she coveted. He would give himself
up ! It was a decision, and Barry began putting the food hastily into
his pockets. For not at Calico would he do it. They might take
him on the trail and claim the reward. He'd have to be tried at the
county-seat, anyway, and eighty miles across the desert — He laughed
aloud in the triumph of this double atonement. He flung the canteen
over his shoulder and started down the tunnel. Half way down he
stopped and fixed his pistols. Ahead he could see the hot sunshine
gleaming on the old ore-dump. He sat down and waited — waited
until the heated noon-day had passed and the west canon-wall was in
shadow. Then he moved down to the mouth of the tunnel and
heard the last ore-teams lumbering and scraping down the grade.
And when darkness had lost to human eyes the difference in form
of man or bush or stone, Barry walked boldly out of the tunnel,
clambered down to the trail that led to the main road, and limped
away into the desert.
When the news reached Calico that Barry Dexter had given him-
self up to the authorities at San Bernardino, and was to stand trial
54 OUT WEST
for shooting Lem Cook in the Live and Let Live saloon, the excite-
ment was far greater than when the shooting had taken place. A
man shot down no one knew why, least of all the two most closely
connected with the affair, was not uncommon ; but it was not in the
history of desert crime that a man in full possession of liberty and his
good senses had coolly given himself up for trial. The men swore
and speculated in baffled groups as the shifts changed. It was
against reason; it was against understanding; it was against all
codes. And when the sheriff jingled into camp to subpoena his wit-
nesses, he found the matter difficult, for every one had been in the
Live and Let Live that night, and knew exactly some telling piece
of evidence. The sheriff winked at the proprietor of the saloon.
"Seems there wa'n't no shifts that night. Seems the mills and
mines shut down just while this little shooting affair was on. Well,
I'll do the best I can for you boys to give you a free show. But
it's the lady I'm after. Where's she? He done it, Barry says, de-
fendin' her." The lady? The girl behind the bar? No one had
seen her for days. She had left the saloon the day after the shooting,
and, though she had been in camp for some time, no one remembered
seeing her for two weeks, at least. She had quite disappeared. The
sheriff had to content himself with Lem Cook, now almost well, and
a few wisely chosen miners. And though the summons for "The
Lady" was published in a number of the outlying camps, she did not
appear at the trial.
Barry was cleared. As he sat atop the Dagget stage he thought
he wished that he had been sentenced to a life term. He knew such
conduct as his warranted it. His gloom was so deep that the jovial
driver, who wanted to know all about it, poked him socially in the
ribs and winked at a flask sticking from his own duster pocket.
Barry turned away. Drink! It was drink that had brought him
to the first crime. But what, he asked himself, had whirled him to
this last? For a crime it was to Barry now. The mirage that had
lured him from the tunnel and dragged him across those blistering,
blinding, aching desert miles, with two days' food and water to last
him four, in fear of his life from some reward-seeking rifle, and
making himself keep on in spite of it — in spite of it! — the mirage
had been caught up with at last and was — why, a mirage, of course !
It was hot shame that shot Barry's eyes with blood now. He had
seen only the crowded court-room, himself the careless center and the
trial going on. "In defense of a lady." How many times he had
said it over until it had fairly picked off the miles of the desert trail.
And the decision — cleared, of course — and then the hero-strut down
the court-room, mindful only of the fleeing scorn and conquering
gratitude in one freckled, girlish face. Of course, it was a mirage !
There were other interests at the county-seat, and Barry had slouched
out past empty benches, and the girl — she did not even know.
IN DEFENSE OF A LADY. 55
"You let me off this," Barry said roughly to the driver. "I'll catch
you up when you breath 'em at the summit." A trail through the
canon cut across the distance to the summit, and Barry struck into
this. He felt that the driver must know his shame, and he wanted
to be alone with it and kill something, if he could find anything to
kill. He caught his pistol from his hip and shot at a fleeing lizard.
Some one stepped into the trail above him and stood looking down.
It was a girl wearing a blue-and-white checked sun-bonnet, and she
carried a large tin pail, which as she watched Barry coming up, she
began to swing back and forth across her knees.
"Guess I scairt her," Barry thought and slipped his pistol home.
"She must come from the bee-ranch up the canon." When he had
almost reached her, Barry raised his head and would have pulled
off his hat in salute, but his hand dropped and he stood still.
"What you here for?" There was idle unconcern in the girl's
voice.
"Well, I didn't come lookin' for you, you can just bet your sweet
life." Barry's abused soul was in his eyes.
"Well, I hope you know you're on my land and there's the way
off! We don't want no skulkers 'round here!" Her carelessness
was gone and she flung aside to let him pass. But self-pity made
Barry hold his ground. He took out his pistol, removed the empty
shell, and carefully replaced it with a fresh one.
"Not very drunk today, I see." Barry started. "Or you'd prob-
ably be a gentleman and leave when you wasn't wanted."
But Barry's hurt was beyond repartee. He polished his pistol on
his sleeve.
"Why don't you go — or else say something?"
"I'm trying to, but I can't think of anything mean enough."
"Mean enough? Well, I like that!"
"You wouldn't like it if I was to think of it once."
The girl's astonished eyes covered him. Barry suddenly remem-
bered there was an old score of gratitude. It baffled with his self-
pity. The girl spoke again in quite another voice — for there was a
ring of anxiety :
"It don't make a bit of difference to me whether you are took again
or not — but — the Dagget stage is due about now, and there may be
folks on her that know you. You'd better go further down the
canon."
"I come on the Dagget stage. She's 'most to the summit now."
A new thought was in Barry's mind. "Didn't you know I was
cleared ?"
"Cleared?" The girl sat down by the side of the trail and took the
pail on her knees. She clasped her arms about it and looked at
Barry over the rim. There began to be hope and beauty in Barry's
life again. He sat down, too.
56 OUT WEST
"Who took you?" Her eyes were big with confused fear and
vindication. "I never told — they couldn't have tracked me — "
"I gave myself up." Barry could not keep the triumph out of
his voice.
"What for ? You could have lit out, easy !"
"I— wanted to."
"Good Lord!"
"Didn't you hear nothing, sure?"
"Haven't heard a thing. Been here with my folks for three weeks.
Oh, go on!"
"Oh, I come into San Bernardino and stood trial. Didn't you
know they summoned you?"
"Did they?"
"Of course! You were the most important witness."
"And I never knew a word !"
"I thought you were paying me off for what I said in the tunnel."
Barry fell to polishing his pistol again.
"But — but how did they clear you?"
"Oh, I had a pretty good defense, you see." Barry looked at the
girl, and she looked into the pail. And because he would not say. it
without her question, she asked, at last :
"What?"
And Barry's voice would hardly hold the words.
"My defense was I shot him defending a lady."
"But you didn't — you never meant it !" .
"Look here. I did mean it! I was drunk when I done it, an' I
cut an' run, because — well, I knew what was good for me. But I
tell you, if I hadn't meant it — well, I guess I'd never have stumped
all those miles, dead with hunger and thirst and a leg 'most off,
thinking I might get hanged when I got there ! I didn't know
whether Lem Cook was alive or not! I just come along thinking
'bout you all the time. I tell you, I made that jury understand how
I done it. There wa'n't no doubt with them ! They knew I meant
it. They went out only just to get turned 'round to come back in."
This was better than the court-room mirage to Barry.
"Well, even if you only meant it drunk, you made them believe
it sober, and I — guess I'm — satisfied — but — I ain't taking back what
I said in the tunnel."
"I ain't asking you to," said Barry. He sat sticking his knife into
the dirt of the trail. Some one was hallooing a long way off.
"Who's that ?" said the girl, starting up.
"That's that fool driver on the Dagget stage," said Barry, quietly.
He went on jabbing the dirt with his knife.
"Don't you have to catch up with 'em?" The question showed
no concern, but the girl pulled the sun-bonnet over her face.
"Not unless you're in an all-fired hurry to get me off your land
just now?" The bonnet slipped back and the girl stood up and
laughed into Barry's eyes.
"I have to bring a pail of water from the creek, the hill is steep —
you might — "
"You just bet!" cried Barry. And as they moved along the trail,
swinging the pail between them, they could hear in the distance the
squealing brakes as the Dagget stage swung down the grade from
the summit.
Berkeley, Cal.
57
'TRAMP-
by A. V. HOFFMAN.
T HAD been a hot June day, and from early in the
morning great flocks of sheep and droves of cattle had
passed, on their way to the pastures of the high Sierra
I Nevada range. Heavy clouds of yellow, choking dust
had risen steadily upward, spreading away and settling
upon everything, and drifting into the house, where it aroused the
wrath of "Mom," who spent most of her time warring against it.
Weary, patient dogs, with bloodshot eyes and tender feet, marched
gravely behind the bleating, crowding flocks. Faithful, intelligent
little fellows they were. With sterling vigilance they kept watch
over the long grey lines entrusted to their care, and often the
drivers, who followed in the wake of the yellow clouds, did not
see them for hours.
Some of the dogs wore little moccasins of buckskin or leather,
but the greater part of them did not. The ground was hard and
hot, and their feet went lame. Sometimes they squatted* in the
shade of a tree, licked their bleeding paws, whimpered a little, and
then resignedly took up their monotonous march toward the north.
Only when there were bridges to cross did the drivers hurry ahead
and give the dogs assistance. Then the little shaggy guards looked
up, wagged their tails in greeting, and relapsed into silent watchful-
ness again.
The last flock had passed, the dust had settled, and the sun, a
lurid red, hung low above the western range of hills. We were
sitting upon the broad, old-fashioned front porch, talking in the
quiet, intermittent way of people who have not much to talk about.
It was then we saw Tramp for the first time. Slowly and painfully
he came up the long path that led from the house to the highway.
Straight to "Pap" he went, instinctively recognizing him as the one
highest in authority, laid his dusty nose across his knee, wagged
his tail and looked beseechingly into the heavily bearded face
above him.
"Poor chap!" said Pap. "I wonder what he wants? Bring him
some water."
When the water was brought he drank long and deeply. Then,
with a sigh, he stretched himself at Pap's feet, dropped his nose
between his paws, and closed his eyes wearily.
"Poor chap!" said Pap again. "He's just about tuckered out.
Look at his feet ; they're bleeding."
The dog looked up as he spoke — a quick lifting of his dark,
hazel-brown eyes, as if he understood all that had been said.
"He's a Newfoundland," continued Pap, "and a mighty big one.
58 OUT WEST
Driving sheep ain't fit work for him — he's too heavy on his feet.
Takes the little black-and-tan shepherds to stand the work. This
chap's place is on a ranch, where there's children."
Little Clarice, the baby, just old enough to toddle about and get
entangled with her own chubby legs, was sleeping in her mother's
lap when the dog arrived. Pap's voice disturbed her, and she opened
her big blue eyes. A moment later they settled upon the big New-
foundland.
"O-o-oooh !" she cried, and, slipping to the floor, ran to him,
dropping down beside him and burying her dimpled face in his
shaggy neck. "O-oooh!" she cooed again, and the dog accepted
her friendship with a queer little guttural grunt. From that moment
they were fast and abiding chums.
We gave the dog a hearty supper, and when we retired for the
night he was lying near the front entrance. We did not expect
to see him again, but he was there in the morning, and evidently
intent upon getting better acquainted with us. The day passed
and he did not leave us. A few small flocks, the last of the "drive,"
went by, and we gave voice to our thankfulness.
"Well," said Pap, "the dog's here yet, anyway. Perhaps he has
made up his mind to quit the driving business. He's a good dog,
and I hope he'll stay. I'd never feel worried any more about Clarice
and the ditch — if he's like some of the Newfoundland dogs I have
known."
"I wonder what his name is?" said Mom.
"Don't know," answered Pap. "Might as well call him Tramp,
I guess."
The dog accepted his new name cheerfully, as became a philos-
opher, and settled into his proper groove at once. It was evident
from the first that he was not an ordinary animal. No doubt he
could have told us, had we been able to understand his language,
that his ancestors were of a high-born and aristocratic family, and
that his blood was unmixed with that of any mongrel strain. He
carried himself with the graceful dignity of good breeding, and
after taking a swim in one of the deep pools of the creek, was always
careful of his appearance. A daily bath was never omitted, and
we often wondered how so fastidious a dog could ever have endured
the long, hot, dusty work upon the road and on the range. His
coat was a deep black, his feet, the tip of his muzzle and his breast
a spotless white.
Tramp assumed at once the duties of a watchman, and no prowl-
ing Indian, Chinaman, peddler or hobo ever approached the house
without an earnest investigation. He knew intuitively whom to
trust. As our home stood upon the highway extending from the
Sacramento valley to the summit of the Sierra Nevada mountains,
"TRAMP." 59
passing directly through the mining district, there were countless
pedestrians of all degrees of quality constantly going by. Many of
them stopped and asked for food or for the privilege of sleeping in
the barns. Some of them were villainous wretches, and it was
necessary to keep all portable articles of value securely locked up.
An eighth of a mile away was a wayside store and saloon, and it
often happened that some of the travelers stopped there to drink
and carouse until their money was spent. At such times there was
always danger of annoyance, if nothing worse.
One afternoon, when Pap had gone to a neighboring ranch, and
Mom and I and the baby were alone, Tramp lay upon the porch,
with little Clarice near him, busy with her family of dolls. The
dog was restless and uneasy. In his eyes there was an angry,
defiant gleam, and every little while he raised his head, gazed stead-
ily at a clump of trees in one of the near-by fields, and uttered a
low growl. Mom was working in her garden in the back yard. I
went to the barn in quest of something and found that half a dozen
stray cattle had wrenched a board from one of the sheds and were
pulling out the hay stored there. I called for Tramp, and he came
at once with the long swinging bounds that made his strength so
gracefully apparent, and we drove the cattle away. Heading them
down the road, I said to the dog :
"Take them, Tramp ; drive 'em along !"
The dog understood me, but he was reluctant. He hesitated,
looked up appealingly, and with a whine turned toward the house,
which was partly hidden by trees. Just then we heard little Clarice
scream, and instantly his eyes blazed, his lips were drawn, exposing
his teeth, and the hair upon his back went up and forward like a
brush. With a harsh snarl he dashed away, cleared the high board
fence without touching it, and, as my eyes followed him, I saw,
staggering down the path, with Clarice in his arms and one hand
upon her mouth, a huge, burly, drunken negro. His face was
distorted and his eyes were rolling.
Straight as a bullet went Tramp. There was a hoarse cry, a
crash upon the gravelled path, and then the dog, seizing the baby's
dress, carried her swiftly away toward the house. Seeing me ap-
proaching at a run, he dropped the child and bounded back to the
spot where the negro was still writhing upon the ground. Taking
him by the throat, he shook him as he might have shaken a rat, and
it was only by dint of much effort that I persuaded him to relinquish
his grip.
Pap was a very undemonstrative man, but when he returned and
I had told him, he called the dog to him, put his arms around his
neck, and gave him one long, generous hug. Tramp cuddled against
him and emitted a series of little grunts of satisfaction. It was
6o OUT WEST
all the reward he asked. After this occurrence he scarcely ever left
the baby alone, but there were times when his services were required
about the fields and barns, and, while he performed all his work
cheerfully and with skilled intelligence, as quickly as possible he
hastened back to the house.
Our home stood upon a point of high land; a spur projecting
from the range of hills skirting the valley. Passing the foot of this
spur was a creek. A ditch, carrying five thousand inches of water,
followed the edge of the valley until it reached the spur, and then
went around the top of it, forming a great bend, like a horse's shoe.
Just where one of the heel-calks of a horse's shoe would have been,
the ditch ended, and the water plunged over a number of little cliffs
to the creek, where it was caught up again in a large flume and con-
veyed across the stream. Around this bend the grade of the ditch
was very steep, and the water ran with the swiftness of a mill-race.
All through the summer time it boomed and roared as it churned
its way to the creek, and it was this dangerous ditch which Pap
had in his mind when he said that if the dog was as good as some
which he had seen, he would not worry any more about Clarice.
That his faith in Tramp was well founded was proved to us one
day when the dog had been with us about a month. We were in
the fields, turning over some clover which had not been curing well,
and as we worked we heard Clarice give utterance to one of her
shrill cries of delight. We both looked up and saw our baby tod-
dling across a narrow bridge which spanned the ditch, tossing up her
hands and cooing to the yellow, hissing water beneath her. With
a shout Pap dropped his pitchfork and ran, but it was a long way to
the bridge, and there was the steep, rocky spur to climb. I ran,
too, and as I ran I wondered how the child could have slipped away
from Tramp. I stopped, put my hands to my mouth, and called
with all the strength of my voice :
"Tramp ! O, Tramp !"
I saw him leap to his feet from one corner of the porch ; saw him
lift his great shaggy head; saw him spring far out with the force
of a catapult. For a moment he passed from my sight, then came
into view again, gave one leap that cleared the entire length of
the bridge, grasped the laughing child and bore her away to safety.
Then I gave a gasp of relief and sat down suddenly, my heart
beating like a steam hammer.
"I always said we could trust him," said Pap that evening, as he
sat on the steps with one hand on Tramp's head. "I always said
he was a good dog, and he is."
In those days highwaymen were plentiful in the rough, broken,
heavily-timbered mining districts. There were no railroads, and all
the bullion taken from the mines was carried by special messengers
"TRAMP." 6 1
to Marysville, or shipped through the offices of the Wells-Fargo
Express Company, the gold being enclosed in wooden boxes, iron-
bound, which were transported by the stage companies. Every
morning a big yellow Concord coach, drawn by six horses, and with
a messenger armed with a "sawed-off" shotgun, flashed by our gate.
A mile south of our home was a big bend in the road, and this big
bend afforded peculiar facilities for the proper "pulling off" of a
robbery. A man, concealed in the thicket upon the point of high
and rocky ground which formed the interior curve of the bend, could
obtain a clear view of the road for a long distance either way. This
was an important advantage for the robbers, as it enabled them to
ascertain beforehand just how many passengers were in the coach
and whether the messenger was in his usual place upon the seat with
the driver. Sometimes the messenger sat inside the coach, and
under more ordinary circumstances his presence could not be detected
utnil the coach had been halted. Then, with the sides of the vehicle
forming a screen, he could fire upon the highwaymen before they
discovered him. Generally, however, the messenger rode outside
with the driver, as his presence inside the coach greatly increased the
danger to which the passengers would be subjected in case a fight
occurred. It was the duty of the messenger to fight, and the robbers
knew it was very essential that they should "get the drop on him" at
the earliest possible moment, before he realized their presence.
Sometimes the messengers failed to recognize the potency of the
"drop" and the bullets sang their sibilant dirge of death in the dim
gray morning light, but over and over again the boxes of treasure
were taken, and the posses that went out in search for the robbers
came back as wise as they were before.
The highwaymen never carried tools with them when they went
upon the road, but levied upon the workshops of the ranchers who
lived in the vicinity of their depredations. Somewhere in California,
in a forgotten corner of a forgotten room, perhaps, there are three
axes, a steel crowbar and two sledges that belong to Pap. Robbers
borrowed them in the night, left them with the splintered boxes, and
the State is still holding them as evidence.
One night, when Tramp had been with us three months or more,
we were awakened by a scuffling noise in the back yard, followed
by a sharp cry of pain, and then silence. Pap and I dressed hurriedly
and, taking a lantern, went to investigate. The first thing we saw,
as we stepped into the yard, was Tramp. He was lying upon the
ground, with a gaping wound behind one shoulder, quite dead. A
highwayman had knifed him.
Later on we found near the spot a fragment of dark gray cloth,
freshly torn and deeply stained with blood. Pap gave it to the
Sheriff when he came the next day to investigate the robbery of the
coach and the killing of the messenger, but nothing ever came of it.
We took our guns and joined in the hunt, but no trace of the robbers
could be found. In the evening when we returned, Pap sat a long
time on the steps, his head clasped in his hands, and I heard him
whisper to himself:
"I hope they'll catch 'em! I hope they'll catch 'em! If I could
only help pull on the rope !"
Stockton, Cal.
62
WIDOW BROWN'S WEDDING
By A. HARTMAN
O A STRANGER standing on the rear platform of
the one car attached to an antiquated locomotive,
which makes up El Cajon's one daily train, the
view from Eucalyptus Pass is anything but inspir-
ing. A scalloped bowl of brown country barred
with white roads that seem to be cut off squarely
at the foothills, is the first impression as you
emerge from the Pass. The eye, searching for detail, soon notes a few
red roofs beyond the trees. These houses make up the town of
El Cajon. Beyond are ranch-houses, setting like scattered
checker-men on a board. If the train is on time, the dusk of
evening is not too deep for you to make out the squares of green
that mark the Bostonia raisin-fields which give the one touch
of freshness to the landscape throughout summer and autumn.
By the time you gather up your gun and other traps, and hand
them down to George Barton, you feel in the very atmosphere
that this is the real California — unspoiled by association with
Eastern thought, and the gilding of Eastern money. That was
my feeling, the first evening I landed in El Cajon on my way to a
month's hunting in the mountains — where I found later, as I felt
sure I would, that up in those winding canons off to the east
there were deer with kingly antlers, that had never heard the
crack of a hunter's gun.
"Lucky to get a seat to-night," drawled George Barton, the
driver of the 'bus, as I climbed into the one vacant place beside
him. He stowed away a part of my belongings, put a foot on
the brake and reached for his whip.
"Quite a crowd," said I. "Always have as many?"
"Oh, my, no ! Seldom ! Weddin' in the mawnin'."
I gave a sidelong glance at the four stalwart men who occupied
one side-seat of the canopy-topped wagon, and the four or five
women on the other side who looked as though they had been
to the city on a shopping expedition, judging from their tired
faces and the number of their bundles.
Barton evidently saw I was puzzled, for he said : "Don't look
like a weddin' party, does it? The four are deputies."
I was still darkly at sea, and might have asked for further en-
lightenment had not a forward wheel gone suddenly into a chuck-
hole, followed quickly by its traveling companion, throwing us
so forcibly forward and back that we were in front of the hotel
before we had fully recovered our equilibrium. As he stopped,
WIDOW BROWN'S WEDDING 63
Barton called, "Hello, Jack !" to a man who had just ridden up,
and was tying his horse to the railing. For the first time since I
had started on my trip my fingers ached for a brush instead of a
gun ! Here was a most splendid bit of color ! A jet-black horse
with a saddle-blanket of Navajo red, and entire Mexican riding
outfit — and the man himself the most interesting part of the
picture. Tall, brown, rugged ; face finely cut and settled in firm
lines ; straight lips firmly closed — the face of a man not to be
trifled with. Barton's elbow touched mine, and the usually
resonant voice was so toned that the words scarcely impressed
their meaning upon my mind until the man had passed through
the swing-doors.
"He's the man who's goin' to make the trouble in the mawnin',"
was what Barton had said as he climbed over the wheel and
whistled to his horses.
This remark, combined with "deputies" and "trouble," was
quite sufficient to arouse my curiosity, but after one of Mrs.
Doty's fine suppers and the sweet, cooling influence of the night
air, that invited sleep after a long, warm day, the desire to learn
more of what promised to be an interesting story was overcome,
and I sought my room.
"Haven't a team on the place, nor a driver," said the livery^
man in the morning. "Wedding to-day." Again that wedding!
"Even George is off, and I'm driving the 'bus myself." At this
instant George emerged through the swinging doors of the one
place of public refreshment in the town, dressed in his Sunday-
best, clean-shaven, newly shorn.
"I'll take care of you," he said. "Whar you goin'?"
"Anywhere that there's deer," I answered.
"All right; I'll do the best I can for you."
"Goin' to the weddin', George?" asked an innocent bystander.
"Uh-huh !" he replied, as we started up the long, white road.
"Tell me," I said, "what's so interesting about this wedding?'
"Widow Brown, she's goin' to be married this mawnin'. Lives
up heah in Dakotaville; everybody knows her." He flourished
his whip in a sort of indefinite way before him. "Brown came
from Dakota. Nice fellow, but a sickly chap. Hadn't been here
long before he just kind o' faded away. Left the widow with
two little kids, small ranch, some lemons and muscats, a cow and
a few chickens. She's had a pretty hard time, but she's man-
aged to live. Brave little woman, I tell you ! Pretty, too. One
of them white women that stay white. Most women that come
from the East burn up and tan up, just as the men do, but she
slays white, and the kids are two little beauties/'
6 4 OUT WEST
Barton was evidently a close observer, and a man who gave
some thought to the personality and welfare of his neighbors.
"Everybody felt sorry for the widow, but pretty soon we heard
that Jack Dare was paying her some attention, and that meant
that she would be provided for in the future, for Jack has piles of
money and could take care of a wife in style. You saw Jack
last night. He lives up in Julian," and with his whip he pointed
to the highest peak outlined ahead of us against the sky, probably
forty miles away.
"When Jack writes his name on the hotel register he puts it
down c J ac k Dare, Miner,' but I guess he's been most everything.
One of the real old-timers. He used to punch cattle in Texas.
Came here years ago from Dallas. Wore a gun on both sides.
All sorts of stories followed him here. They said he had a good
many notches on his gun when he came from Texas. He added
one, anyway, up at Julian soon after he came. Indian had too
much red stuff, and got obstreperous. Jack is pretty decent, but
nobody cares to cross him, and a good many wondered where the
widow got nerve enough to ever consider him as a successor to
Brown. Jack was pretty steady after he got going to see the
widow. He'd come down to Cajon on Saturday, and instead of
hangin' around Harry's, as he used to do, he'd sit on the veranda
and talk to the boys, tellin' them about old times in Texas. Then,
on Sunday, he'd fix up and ride over to see the widow.
"Everything was settled all right, exceptin', maybe, the time.
Then a chap from the East came to town. He staid awhile at the
hotel, but he couldn't stand it long. He was pale and peaked
lookin', and the Ladies' Aid got interested in him and asked
Widow Brown to take him to board. He was pretty sick, but
she gave him mighty good care, and after a while it was given out
that she was goin' to marry him. Nobody believed it at first, but
so it turned out. Jack came down one day and she up and told
him she'd changed her mind ; she was goin' to take the other man.
" 'I know I promised, Jack,' she said, 'but you see I can't. He
nasn't anyone in the world, and he can't take care of himself, and
I've just got to do it.'
"They say Jack offered to furnish the dinero to send him to a
sanitarium in town, but she said no, he couldn't live in town. I
suppose she remembered Brown, and felt sorry for the chap.
" 'An' so you're goin' to marry him?' said Jack.
" 'Yes, I am, Jack,' she replied.
" 'Well,' said Jack, as he put spurs to that black horse till he
nearly went over the hedge, Til be here to the weddin'.'
"That's why Harry swore in the four strangers as deputies.
They'll keep around and watch for trouble. Everyone expects
Jack will come loaded with die-stuff."
WIDOW BROWN'S WEDDING 6 5
To the uninformed in the language of the people between the
Cuyamaca mountains and the sea, I suppose I should explain that
"die stuff" is a highly necessary commodity in the filling of the
chambers of a six-shooter when a gentleman starts out looking
ior trouble.
The ride up the hills had been marked by the beauty of the
great mountains in front of us, the odor of the sagebrush after
the heavy sea-fog of the night, with a sky cloudless as June. A
cotton-tail or two had scuttled ahead of us across the road, and
under the flume ; not a breath of wind stirred the leaves of the
trees, and this was the day a little woman who had "stayed white"
was to marry the man of her choice — even though a number of
her guests were officers of the law and keepers of the peace.
"You see," Barton continued after a short silence, "the shack is
small and the weddin' is to take place out of doors, under the
peppers. There'll be room enough there for everybody from
Cajon, Lakeside, Lakeview and Jaimacha, and the widow will be
glad to see 'em all.
"Strange thing, too, the man that marries 'em is an old
acquaintance of Dare's. There's no minister here, now, and it
costs too much to have one out from town, so the Justice ties the
knot. Of course it won't be high church, exactly, but he's no new
hand at it. They say his father was a minister in Nebraska, his
grandfather was a minister in Massachusetts, and his great-
grandfather was a bishop in some place across the water, who
gave up his job to come over here and fight with us in the war of
the Revolution. All the Judge's brothers were ministers but one,
who's a lawyer, and one that went with a circus, and they say
the Judge himself was educated for the ministry. For some
reason or other he went to punchin' cattle, though. They say he
helped Dare out of some trouble in Texas, and now he's goin' to
help him out of this."
Another short silence and he resumed his story.
"The Judge has a place up here in the mountains he calls
Calamity. He's a crank on trees — has got more different kind of
trees on his ranch than you could count. Vines growing all over
everything, and flowers till you can't see. He said the other night
he would furnish the bride's bouquet, and put plenty of blanks
,- n his pocket for ante-mortem statements."
With this last cheerful bit of information we left the road and
turned into the private way leading to the shack. Somehow,
after Barton's story, I did not feel so much like an interloper in
going to Widow Brown's wedding.
There was quite a gathering of women under the pepper trees.
Children were playing on the ground and men were standing
66 OUT WBST
about in groups. A certain air of expectation made each new-
comer an object of especial interest to those already gathered.
Presently all talking ceased, for across the brown ground from
the house came a figure in white, two little children clinging to
her hands. It was the bride. What Barton had said was true.
She was a woman who had "stayed white." Her cheeks were
pink to-day, however, and her eyes of dark blue shone with the
fearless light of one who looks danger in the face without a
waver. She walked into the shade of the trees as if she had not
seen the groups all along the way. She placed the two children
on a rug and turned to the man who was waiting for her. He
was tall, of delicate appearance, very thin, very pale — of the
type one meets on every corner in this Land of the Sun.
Another figure had separated itself from a group and come
forward. I knew from the dignity, the black coat of somewhat
clerical cut, the comprehensive glance of a pair of magnificent
dark eyes, and the indefinite smile of the lips, that this was the
man who should have been a minister, but became a cowboy, and
afterward a Judge — and found repose from work at a place he
dared to call Calamity. I looked for some bulging of the pocket,
where ante-mortem blanks might be concealed, but there was no
evidence of them, and the bride did not carry a bouquet. The
Judge carried a small, black, seal-covered book. He had just
opened it and turned a leaf or two, when another tall figure
moved into the shadow of the pepper trees. In a suit of newest
khaki, buttoned up to a military collar, with a sombrero of softest
gray and finest texture shading the dark, clean-cut face, came
Jack Dare, Miner. He paused within five feet of the wedding
party. As he approached, there was a hush as solemn and effec-
tive, to the tense nerves, as that which falls upon a forest the
moment before the mountain rain begins to beat down. But the
bride's eyes never wavered — they were fixed straight ahead of
her, on the Judge's face.
"Game !" said George Barton, at my elbow. "Dead game !"
The Judge turned another leaf in his little book, looked up,
and was about to speak, when Jack Dare's hand went up and he
removed his sombrero as a reverent one removes his hat at a
church door. Long indrawn breaths marked the relaxing of the
tense suspense that had held the guests, and the Judge began:
"We are gathered together " If he had used the regulation
"Dearly Beloved," we could not have felt the solemnity of it all
more keenly.
Then came the usual "Who gives this woman?" and there was
no one to reply. Without kith or kin— save the two little ones
playing under the peppers— there seemed to be no one to give
SEALED ORDERS 67
away the bride, until, after an instant's pause, Jack Dare, Miner,
stepped forward.
"I do," he said.
Probably everyone but the Judge was amazed. There seemed
to be a mist before his eyes for an instant as he raised them to
jack's, then continued the service with a waver and inflection of
sweetness in his voice that the boys back in Texas would never
have recognized as belonging to John Dodson of Dallas.
"Well," said George Barton, reflectively, a few moments later,
as he turned his horse up the alpine grade, "I don't know who
had a better right to give away the bride."
El Cajon, Cal.
SEALED ORDERS
By EUGENE MAN LOVE RHODES.
T. CLAIR crumpled the telegram in his hand, thrust it
in his pocket, rose, and left the club. Several inti-
mates remonstrated with him for leaving so early.
"We're going to have a rubber of bridge, old man.
Won't you make one?"
But St. Clair shook his head, and, smiling, went out into the night.
Not one who saw him go dreamed that the man who had quitted them
so quietly had left their circle forever. He lit a cigar and sauntered
down the street, thinking. He had cause for reflection. St. Clair
had been born to the purple. An only son, reared by wealthy and
indulgent parents, he had seldom known what it meant to have a
wish ungratified. At college he had been one of the leaders of the
"smart set," and his habits of luxury and extravagance, so far from
calling forth any remonstrances at home, had been tacitly encour-
aged.
His had been the useless life of the butterfly. He had been a
globe-trotter, and had loitered away years in London, Paris and
Rome. Rumor had coupled his name with one after another of the
reigning beauties, but he remained unwed. Also he was reported —
and truly — to have lost immense sums at play in certain fashionable
coteries.
At last he had returned, blase, world-weary, cynical, cold and in-
different. And — partly to recoup his fortunes, sadly impaired by
years of princely extravagance, but more because milder excitements
had ceased to tickle his jaded palate — he had taken to speculation.
To do him justice, his judgment, under ordinary circumstances,
was good. But the stars that in their courses fought against Sisera,
fought now against St. Clair. Disaster crowded disaster. He met
68 OUT WEST
them all with the same cold, impassive face, and no one knew how
badly he was hurt. Then he saw his chance for a final coup that
would more than make good all his losses. His information was
sound, and he had every right to expect a victory. But the fatality
which pursued him was not to be denied.
Wall Street bolted like a frightened horse. The hands that held
the reins had lost control for a moment, and in that moment St.
Clair had lost all. That was what the yellow slip had said.
He found himself unable by any effort of will or imagination
to construct any tomorrow. What, he, the arbiter elegantium, the
admired of all admirers, to continue to exist on a lower plane — to
become a laborer, a clerk, a drudge ? Very calmly he thought it all
out. Very calmly, and with scarce a regret, he decided that for him
the end had come. He would die.
Yes — that was the only way. His parents were dead — there
were no near kin to mourn his loss — no wife nor sweetheart to
grieve for him. A few men would miss him a few days — that was
all.
But how? Poison and rope had disagreeable features — a pistol
might disable without killing. Also he would prefer that there
should be the semblance of an accident. This consideration barred
out drowning, otherwise the easiest way. Ah ! he had it. One could
fall from a precipice.
He knew the very place in the Park. Disagreeable? — yes — one
might find an easier death — but it did not suit his pride that men
should know that he had met his death by his own hand.
He turned toward the park and hastened his steps. The sooner
it was done, the better. He entered and climbed the zig-zag path
to the hill top. Here was the place then — with a hundred feet sheer
fall. Stop — we will make this an accident beyond a doubt ! He
climbed down in the shadow a few feet and forcibly tore a limb from
a stunted hemlock, which clung to a crevice in the rock, and threw
it down the chasm.
"There !" he said, smiling grimly. "It is evident that I grasped
that in an attempt to save myself."
The myriad lights that told of the sleeping city below him were
faded, blurred and dim, for the night mists were rolling in from the
sea. Nearer, the mighty river hastened on its journey to the Great
Deep. One last look upward at the unheeding stars — and he
loosed his" hold and started to step from the narrow projection where
he stood.
A rock passed by his head and crashed into the abyss below. He
looked up just in time to see a white figure leap from the brink above
him.
Instinctively St. Clair's left hand clutched at the bushes which
SEALED ORDERS 69
grew in every cleft and crevice, and his right grasped at the falling
figure as it passed him. His arm closed on the slight form of a
girl. The shock threw him from the ledge — his left arm was almost
torn from its socket. They swung violently around and crashed
against the face of the rock, the girl inside. The bush bent —
crackled — gave. They were slipping — falling —
Just in time his right hand, groping, found a stronger bush — and
a second later the left closed on it as well. Again the sickening,
shuddering terror as it bent — but this time it held. The echoes of
the fallen boulder had not yet died away. When that boulder had
started, St. Clair was bent on death. Ere it had reached the bot-
tom, he was struggling in the dark, blindly, desperately, for his own
life and another's.
The girl did not scream nor implore, but fought fiercely, silently,
for the freedom which meant death. At first St. Clair could only
crush her against the rock. But presently she ceased to struggle,
and lay limp and exhausted in his arms.
Slowly, hardly, inch by inch, feeling with hands and feet for bush
and limb and crevice and ledge, he fought his way back with the
double weight. More than once his precarious foothold gave way
and dislodged splinters of rock, to rattle down into the gloomy
depths below. More than once the falling earth and pebbles on
his face warned him that the bushes which held their weight were
tearing out by the roots. His hands were torn, bleeding, bruised —
his strength fast failing. He set his teeth for a final effort, and
then he felt with one foot a firm, wide surface. He edged to it in
the dark. It was a projecting boulder — and he sank down upon it
gasping, breathless, exhausted. The brow of the cliff was just
above them. They were saved. After the terrible path they had
traveled, the rest would be child's play.
The girl lay passively in his arms, weeping softly. "Why did
you not let me die?" she moaned. "It would have been all over
now. O, I wanted to die ! Why did you save me ?"
"Are you sure you were not making a mistake?" asked St. Clair.
"A mistake! I tell you the moment I threw myself off was the
happiest I have known today. And you — what were you doing in
such a place at such a time?" she demanded.
He laughed. "I was going to jump off."
"Why?"
St. Clair hesitated. To put it into words his reasons did not
seem so adequate now.
"I have just learned that I have lost everything in the world," he
stammered. "I have been used to every luxury, and the life of a
laborer has no attractions for me."
"Is that all?" she answered him scornfully. "For shame! You,
7 o OUT WEST
a strong man, to give up for that! Why, as far as money goes,
no doubt the prospect before you is far ahead of what I could ever
have hoped for. If that is all, the world would have lost little by
your death !"
"And you," said St. Clair. "Tell me your story."
The girl was silent a moment. "Why not?" she said, bitterly.
"Listen then. My story is the story of thousands upon thousands.
My father is dead — my mother has been an invalid and dependent
upon me for everything. Two years ago I came to the city for
work. Three times have I found a good place — and three times I
have been subjected to unmanly persecutions by my employer. It
has been my curse that men have found my face pleasing. 'You
are too fair to work,' said the first. 'Let us make an easier bar-
gain !'
"The cur !" said St. Clair.
"You are surprised? I assure you it is far from being an extreme
case. Every day girls are offered the alternative of starvation or
dishonor in this great wealthy, Christian city!"
Some realization of what he might have done with his wasted
wealth came to St. Clair, and he groaned.
"I will say for the second one that he had always before been
respectful and kind," she went on. "Never mind what he did —
he had been drinking.
"The last one treated me at first with all respect and considera-
tion. But my mother grew worse. A month since the doctor said
she must have a trip to the South. I had sent her all my money,
and even so had run behind on the doctor-bills. We had no pros-
perous friends, no near relations to whom we could apply. I went
to my employer and told him my situation with tears in my eyes. I
implored him for an advance — I offered to work after hours — any-
thing, if only I could get the money. He was wealthy, respected —
a pillar of society. And he told me, 'Certainly, my dear, you can
have the money on one condition. That is, that you will not refuse
the first favor I ask of you.' "
St. Clair rose to his knees with a bitter curse. And he had wished
to die — while such things were done !
"I dared not leave him then," she went on. "I had to keep on
to procure actual necessaries for my mother. But I tried and tried
to find another place.
"Then came word that a change was the only possible hope to
save her life." Even in the deep shadow she covered her face with
her hands. "I sent her the money yesterday. She died today."
She buried her face in her arms, and her form was shaken with
sobs. St. Clair held her awhile in awed silence, while one tear after
another trickled down his cheeks.
SEALED ORDERS 7«
His own self-sought trouble seemed far away, petty, unreal, trivial,
beside this. He wondered, idly, why it had grieved him. He, a
man, to die, when the world was full of wrongs like this to be righted
— of griefs to be comforted. Youth, strength, talent, courage — He
blushed with shame to think how little courage he had shown.
Yet it was courage which swelled his heart now and thrilled along
his veins, though he knew it not — the tameless strain of righting
blood inherited from some wild old French ancestor, dust and ashes
centuries ago. Generation after generation it had slumbered un-
awakened. Through a life-time of prosperity it had slept lightly
in his veins — and now — this first contact with helplessness and weak-
ness wronged had evoked it, as the genii in the Arabian tale rose at
the rubbing of the lamp. Strong, unyielding, proud, masterful, it
buTst from its grave clothes to rule, henceforth, this man whose
whole life, so far, had been given to self alone.
Presently he reached up a hand and stroked the bowed head ten-
derly. "Poor little girl !" he said. "Poor little sister!"
Slowly, slowly the moon rose, trembling through the mist. She
looked down sadly and tenderly on these two, God's erring children.
From distant lands, over strange roads their feet had traveled — his
on a flower-strewn path, hers on a rough and thorny one, to meet at
last in this place of fear. Her silver radiance fell softly, pityingly,
alike on sinner and the sinned against — the bowed head that had
fought so bravely in so many battles, and lost but one — the proud
one which had lost so many, would lose no more.
"Promise me," said St. Clair, at last, "that you will not harm
yourself just now. I want to think."
"I promise," she said faintly.
He helped her up to the top and led her to a seat, and stood up
before her.
"Dear," he said, gently, "it was no blind chance that put me there.
If I saved you, just so surely you saved me. The God we did not
need has need of us. He has given us back the lives we threw
away. For myself, I have been a coward, selfish, unworthy, ignoble,
weak. I am not fit to touch even the hem of your garment. I
deserved my troubles, and brought them on myself — but you are in
nowise to blame for yours — you brave little woman !"
He turned his face to the West. The world was a familiar book
to him — but his mind in this hour involuntarily turned back to a
long-forgotten country — a land of desert and of mighty hills.
A memory came to him of a summer, long ago — fresh and clear
as if it were yesterday— of a camp in the welcome shadow of gaunt
and rock-ribbed hills. The bubbling, gurgling spring, tinkling mer-
rily down to sink in the gravel, the hobbled horses — the deer swing-
ing from the juniper branches in the cool evening breeze — the
72 OUT WEST
cheerful blazing fire — the comrades, tried and proven — surely he
could reach out his hand to touch them !
"Look !" he said, and pointed. The girl raised a white face, tear-
stained yet beautiful, and gazed as if she saw with the eyes of the
flesh the scene the sorceress Memory conjured up for him.
"Far away," he said, "far away yonder in the West, there is a
lonely land. There are mountains in that land — gray and lofty and
strong — mountains whose grandeur dwarfs the works and hopes and
fears of man, shaming his littleness. And there is a valley there,
walled round with mighty hills — a valley of granite and sand where
the green grass springs first when the rains begin. There are
strange fair flowers there then, and in the skies are brighter stars
than our eyes know here. When the strong winds are high, their
force is broken before they reach that valley. We will go there
together, you and I, and begin life over again."
"Together?" She shrank from him, half in fear, half in scorn.
"You are like the rest," she said. "Together!"
"Together — always," he said, gently. "Be my wife — my loved
and honored wife. As for that base coward yonder — I will not
even ask his name. Some day — on an evil day for him — he will be
given into my hand." He drew her to him, and, sobbing," she hid
her face in his breast. He kissed her hair. "Rest there, poor tired
child," he said. "Rest there."
He took her hand in his and they turned their backs on the crowd-
ed city and the old, hard, futile, hopeless life forever.
Apalachin, N. Y.
CARNATIONS
By EDWARD W. BARNARD.
I SOWED within my dooryard plot
Seeds treasured from another year.
Earth wooed, and presently the spot
On either hand thrust up a spear
of tender green. Good care, good cheer
I brought to each ; feared, hoped anon,
Till, when the summer's best were gone,
Two spicy blossoms crowned the bed,
Both fair as Heaven to look upon,
Though one gleamed white and one burned red.
So in the garden of my heart
Two tender things were nurtured long,
Set carefully and reared apart
From every scathing breath of wrong.
I watched them grow stout-limbed and strong,
Hoped prayerfully and feared anon;
Till suddenly, their girlhood gone,
I saw two women perfected,
Both fair as Heaven to look upon —
But O, to find one flower red!
Montclair, N. J.
73
THE GREAT PREMIER OF NEW ZEALAND
By MICHAEL FLURSCHEIM.
[The sudden death of Richard John Seddon has precipitated afresh the
discussion of New Zealand ideas and institutions with which this magazine
dealt at some length nearly five years ago. New Zealand, like California,
is cursed with land monopoly, but, unlike California, New Zealand has
adopted policies which are making for the solution of the problem. New Zea-
land once had a labor problem, too, and was harassed by strikes and lockouts,
but that problem has been absolutely solved by New Zealand statesmanship.
In view of what has already appeared in these pages, as well as the general
interest in the subject, it seems well worth while to present a characterization
and an estimate of the statesman who ruled the destinies of New Zealand
during the most important epoch of its history, and whose career is suddenly
ended by death, which overtook him in the very height of his popularity
and power.
Many estimates of Seddon are appearing in the American press, nearly all
written by those who knew the man only by reputation nad viewed his work
not where it was done, but from the other side of the world. Out West
is so fortunate as to obtain an article written by a highly intelligent man
who knew the Premier, who lived in New Zealand under his rule, and who
viewed his work from the standpoint of one even more advanced in economic
thought than the great and successful leader of Social Democracy who has
fallen at his post. These considerations give the article peculiar value to
all students of politics. — Wm. E. Smythe.]
EW ZEALAND'S famous Premier succumbed to a
stroke of apoplexy — the kind of death foreseen for a
man of such Falstaffian proportions. Like that merry
knight, he was fully conscious of the excess in fleshly
endowment with which nature had provided him. Only
a few weeks before his death, at a banquet given him at Rangiora,
he said in the merry knight's happy humour, that he had enjoyed
more hospitality than any of his predecessors, and had attended more
banquets than any other man in New Zealand, and they would
admit, if they looked him up and down, that he had something to
show for it.
But his mental make-up was not disproportionate to the generous
physical proportions with which he had been endowed. He was not
a genius, or he never could have accomplished the work he did.
Genius as a rule means lack of proportion — gigantic attainment com-
pensated by a deficit in the common sense possessed by far inferior
men. Seddon's greatness consisted in his great equability, in the
fine tact with which he always knew how to keep in touch with the
desires and wants of his people. He was the typical New Zealander,
the Englishman of the Antipodes, that peculiar mixture of conserva-
tism with progressiveness. A pioneer boldly forging ahead under
totally new conditions, but never for one single moment losing con-
tact with realities, never relaxing his touch with the people, he was
quite as much leading as following in every step he took.
74 OUT WEST
His origin and career preserved him of the danger to which most
statesmen succumb. Neither descent nor education had lifted him
above that level where the highly educated man is so apt to lose all
mental connection with the masses of the people. The Right Hon.
Richard John Seddon, the man who guided his country's destinies
for thirteen years, never quite ceased to be the miner and saloon-
keeper of the West Coast, with whom the lowliest of his people felt
at home, when he shook hands with his "old Dick" in the govern-
ment buildings, or at one of the innumerable festive occasions at
which the always ready popular address of the Premier won the
hearts of his hearers.
Judging him from an American point of view, we may say he
had become a statesman without ever having ceased being a "boss."
Not that I want to insinuate that he ever practiced the low corruption
of some party bosses known in this country ; but he never shrank
from bribery of a certain kind with which his constituents could be
bought. The peculiar concentration of the administration of his
country which followed the abolition of the old Provincial councils
entrusts to the central government certain tasks which in other
communities are entirely left to local administration. If a bridge
over a creek in the back country, or a road through the wilderness
is needed, a petition is made to the Premier, and a judicious distri-
bution of the loaves and fishes gives him an influence proportionately
far superior to that of our President. But this is not all, for the
facility with which the law-making machinery is put into motion in
New Zealand enables the head of the governing party to favor cer-
tain classes of voters. One of the most interesting evidences of this
was the "rebate of rent bill" of 1901 — a bill which gave the govern-
ment the power to give rebates of rents due by State tenants, if the
circumstances warranted it. That the circumstances are more likely
to warrant such favors in the case of an adherent of the government
than in that of an opponent is founded in human nature — and there
was a good deal of human nature about Seddon.
But the man would not have kept the reins for thirteen years if
he had merely been a clever party boss, if he had not gradually de-
veloped into a great statesman, into a leader who advanced his little
nation to a height which makes its administration the envy of pro-
gressive men the world over. In reality New Zealand's advance in
liberal legislation is still behind that of the most progressive country
— Switzerland. New Zealand has not the referendum and initiative,
nor the proportional vote. It has not even the second ballot of Ger-
many. Accordingly, minority parties cannot test their strength in
a first ballot, leaving final decision to a second, because the first bal-
lot is final, as it is in the United States, and the only way to prevent
the victory of the greater evil is often to vote at once for the lesser
RICHARD JOHN SBDDON 75
one. It is this system which more than anything else secures the
position of the party boss, of the politician, for only the most perfect
organization has any chances; new parties find it almost impossible
to secure domination. The wonderful progress of Social Democracy
in Germany would have been impossible under such a system. The
second ballot takes place where none of the parties obtained an abso-
lute majority of all the votes polled at the first ballot. It thus per-
mits the luxury of voting for the voter's real preference in the first
ballot and only when he is not successful lets him decide in the
second ballot which he prefers of the two candidates who obtained
most votes at the first. In this way the voters can try to carry out
their real will without running serious risk of thereby electing the
man whom they least favor. In New Zealand, in a constituency, a
conservative might poll approximately one-third of the votes, a radi-
cal opponent of Seddon another third, a Seddonite the last third,
and the latter would be elected, the other votes lost, if the Seddonite
had only a single vote more than either of the others. In Germany
in such a case there would be a second ballot between the Seddonite
and the radical ; and the election would depend on the question
which of the two the conservative voters would consider the lesser
evil. In this way, Seddon has maintained himself during the whole
period, though his real followers often constituted a minority.
In the darkness even feeble light makes an impression, and this
accounts for much of the enthusiastic partisanship for New Zealand
institutions shown by many radical Americans and Englishmen —
Henry Demarest Lloyd, for instance. Compared with countries in
which the railroads are private property, a country in which they
belong to the state seems a prodigy of progress ; but in countries like
Germany, Switzerland, Holland, Belgium, etc., which have long
since seen that no nation can safely leave its arteries of commerce
in the hands of a private monopoly, and whose experience of state
ownership and administration has been a continued success, New
Zealand's favorable results seem of less importance.
In a country in which the public domain has been thrown away
within a single century, where a progressive system might have
preserved free land to the settler for centuries to come, even the
raw and unscientific New Zealand land system may appear as an
ideal, though during the whole thirteen years of Seddon's govern-
ment practically very little progress has been made in this direction.
The much-vaunted separation of the land from the improvements
certainly proves a superior taxing system to the one in use in this
country, where both are taxed indiscriminately. But when we con-
sider that according to the last figures given by Mr. Seddon only a
few months ago, the land tax brought only £383,633 of a total
revenue of £6,575,128, only one-seventeenth, the pretense of Single-
7 6 OUT WEST
Taxers that this system is responsible for the progress of the country
seems rather ridiculous. If we add that in New Zealand 800 persons
own 60 per cent of the land, and one-seventieth of the people own
three-quarters of the land, we must agree that in the newest country
of the world, in which a sort of common land ownership obtained
two-thirds of a century ago, this does not sound quite so well. A
homestead law which gave the freehold title to the settler, subject to
the pre-emptive rights of the State at the price paid by the settler
plus the value of the improvements made by him, the said pre-
emptive right exercised as soon as the settler or his direct descend-
ants ceased occupying the land — such a homestead law would have
given quite different results, but is not even dreamed of in our day
by the party in power, and what remains of the public domain, though
not treated quite as wastefully as in this country, is very badly ad-
ministered.
New Zealand is looked at not only as the paradise of Single-Taxers
but also as that of Socialists. It is the one as little as the other.
When Mr. Seddon began to work two coal mines for the community,
the whole world spoke of state socialism. In Germany mines of all
kinds in far greater number and extent have been worked by the
government for centuries without calling out that phrase. When
a fraction of the insurance business is undertaken by Mr. Seddon,
all praise or blame it, whereas German State fire insurance, which
in most parts of the country is even compulsory, is not mentioned.
His old-age insurance has been anticipated in Germany by many
years ; so has his accident insurance, while public insurance for sick-
ness, which is a State institution in Germany and other countries,
has never been introduced in New Zealand.
Leaving minor matters aside we may say that the only real prog-
ress beyond other countries has been made in the matter of arbitration
of differences between capital and labor. Compulsory arbitration
has practically put an end to strikes in New Zealand. This is cer-
tainly a great progress, but it remains far short of the dreams of the
country's friends.
I want it to be clearly understood that I do not wish to minimize
the work of the departed statesman, whose energy and wisdom I
fully appreciated and whose loss I deeply mourn; but I want it
understood that New Zealand's progress, great as it is when looked
at from an American point of view, is very small when compared
with what has been done elsewhere. If, in spite of this, the standard
of living of the New Zealander is higher than that in other countries
where the social laws are even more progressive, it is because in a
new country, which contains only 900,000 inhabitants on an area as
large as Great Britain plus half of Ireland, more elbow room is
found than in countries with only a small fraction of land to each
inhabitant. And if New Zealand is even ahead of a country with
an immense area like ours, it is not the merit of the little island
empire, but the shame of our own country.
Coronado, Oal.
77
THAT
WHICH 15
WL WRITTEN
*#?
As careful and earnest student of economic,
social and political conditions the world over,
as powerful protestant against the evils of
monopoly, and as eager and convincing advocate of progress, Henry Demarest
Lloyd's position was assured long before his death, three years ago. Only
with the recent posthumous publication of his Man, the Social Creator, does
it appear how much more than any or all of these he really was. For this
is one of the great books of a generation, and reveals its author as poet,
philosopher and prophet. It throws a new light, too, on all his previous
work, making it clear that an elaborated evolutionary philosophy and a pro-
found religious conviction were the foundation and the inspiration of each
of his searching investigations into one or the other phase of the questions
which absorbed his attention. It seems to me, moreover, of peculiar sig-
nificance that this noble, tolerant, broad-visioned and hopeful study and
forecast should be the work of a pioneer in the field of "literature of ex J
posure'' — a forerunner of the "man with the muck-rake," whose voice is
lifted on every hand in these later days. His Wealth Versus Commonwealth,
published a dozen years ago, remains to this day one of the most terrific
and unanswerable indictments of corporate greed ever laid before the pub-
lic — and this appeared long before laying bare the methods of the criminal
rich had become the fashionable and profitable literary occupation it is today.
I shall not attempt to sum up the argument of this inspiring book, nor even
to say further words of praise concerning it. Instead, I shall let it speak
for itself so far as that can be done by making a few quotations from it,
taken almost at random. It will be understood that each of them los«s
immeasurably by removal from the context.
Some of the people are becoming so hysterical that they hear the
drop of the guillotine in every slamming door, and think every
workingman is a revolutionist at heart. All this is unnecessary. Our
civilization is not a failure ; it does not have to be turned back ; it
needs only to be carried along its own path. We need no revolution,
only the next step in evolution and historic development. We do
not need to retrace, unlearn, destroy, but to go on, do more, study
the same things, but harder. The strings in our hands by which
we have felt our way along so far through our labyrinth are the
leading-strings of progress, and we have but to follow the same
strings further on. Our schools, our churches, our streets, our cor-
porations, our families, the great achievements of the past that
has died for us are right; not wrong, only not right enough. But
they are starting points, not resting places.
We have understood for a long, long time that God was love.
What we want now to know is how to get this God at work doing
the chore of today — putting an end to the war, waste, anarchy,
grief, of the business world.
Unless universal extinction is conceivable, we shall always have
struggle, competition, war; never unity, rest, peace. Always move-
ment forward, always one force or goal playing against another;
78 OUT WEST
always a strength to overcome to give us strength. But as man
has become wiser and tenderer, competition has been changing before
our eyes. •. . . A co-operative political economy will not banish
competition, but make it progressively more a competition to create
livelihood, property, opportunity for all in the best ways.
The new prophets will make men understand that the discords,
poverties of our era do not call for the destruction of our institutions,
but for their extension to new provinces of human contact— labour,
business.
Man will preserve religion and patriotism, no matter how many
churches and governments he has to destroy in the defense.
Our exhorters, in preaching to men that they are brothers, are
telling them not what they are but what they are to be. "Life is
sacred" means that life is growing sacred. Out of the pulsing,
spending streams of human energy, rioting in the waste of over-
loaded tendencies, pouring forth men and women by uncounted
millions — like the spawn of the codfish — to secure the perpetuation
of one ideal after another, rises a progressive incarnation of life
moving on to ever better uses.
The reform which makes our wrongs here right in Heaven is
the recourse of slaves afraid to do their duty on earth. Progress
on earth, not perfection in Heaven, is the word of the future.
. . . Humanity sees its goal to be not perfection, but progress ;
the invitation of every tomorrow worth accepting, because of the
never-broken promise of the past tomorrow.
A conception of perfect humanity or of a perfect flower is got
from a cloud of witnesses not one of whom is perfect. Life is joy,
and has always and everywhere been joy. The groans of men
have been only aspirations for a higher joy than that presented to
them. . . . Our moments of patriotism, brotherliness, good-will,
are leaps up into the happiness which flows all through social space,
and in it some day we shall live, and work, and bask, and ripen.
In the struggle for existence the Hebrew ideas of the fatherhood
of God, and brotherhood of Hebrews, expanded by Jesus to brother-
hood of all men, survived as fittest of all ancient syntheses. That
restatement of the same old principles which can bring men as fellow
labourers under the same law, and that can associate them as fellow
worshippers, will be the religion of the coming era. The one must
precede the other, men must learn that all are fellow beings, before
they can advance to the conception that all fellow beings must
be brothers on earth as well as i.n Heaven, brothers in all things
as well as in one thing, brothers in the rewards of labour as well
as in the labour. The religion of the immediate future is to be
an Industrial Religion — one which will expand to the association
of men in their common toils, the sacred law of brotherhood which
they now obey only in the Church, and there brokenly, because,
being infidel to it outside the Church, they are unfit and unable to
live up to its fulness within the Church.
Love teaches that whatever social contrivance seeks to take without
giving, to have without sharing, to do otherwise than it would be
done by, seeks profit for itself out of loss for others, violates the
law, and is therefore doomed. This love knows but one kind of
peace — the peace of righteousness. No power in human affairs has
ever been great enough to silence it; no heredity has been long-
lived enough to outlast it. Love tells us never to rest as long as
one human relation remains awry with hate, fear, force, or selfish-
ness, or ignorance. ... To love the King, dethrone him. To
love the slave-owner, free his slaves. To love the priest, make him
one of a universal congregation of divine communion. To love
the business man, cure him of his leprosy of greed, eating him with
the terrors of panic and bankruptcy.
Soft-hearted men are as normal as hard-headed ones. History
has no lesson for us if we do not read in it the demonstration that
the hard heart implies a soft head — a head, that is, which does not
and cannot understand its day, and cannot successfully manage its
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN 79
own affairs. The one thing that always breaks down is the institu-
tion of cruelty, no matter how hard its Alva's head may be.
We speak of the Golden Rule as if it were itself the disclosure
of some fundamental principle of divine action. It is not so; it
rather describes a method of action, a rule, as we call it, which has
sprung out of a fundamental principle which underlies it. . . .
A Declaration of Independence, an Emancipation Proclamation, is
the mother brooding of the nest developed to its highest manifesta-
tion — the conscious exercise of the creative love of all for all. All
the politics, all the industry, all the science, all the religion of the
future as of the past, have for their task to keep this force at work.
We cannot say too much for self help unless we exalt it above
each-other help; the two make one truth. To use their resources
to prevent adulterations, monopolies, to give every child education,
to give every member the right of employment, is the self help
and each-other help of men acting together.
Men need luxury, splendour, beauty and magnificence — palaces,
parks, galleries, colour, music, refulgence. They will have them ;
kings and aristocracies are not too high a price to pay for them in
their primitive days, but civilized man must get with them the
greatest luxury of all — democratic self-respect. Not to destroy luxury,
but to democratise it, is the true policy.
When you see a cause against which all the powers of law,
Church, culture and wealth are united, there is a cause worth looking
into. If there was nothing in it, why should all these mighty institu-
tions be so disturbed about it? And if you find all customs, creeds,
logics, bazaars and currencies against it, look at it still more search-
ingly. All these have always at the first been united against any
new conscience, and have always conspired against it even to the
death.
To give the poor, the ignorant, the hungry, overdriven, leisureless,
the suffrage and tell them to protect themselves against the rich,
the initiated, the worldly-wise, the well-fed, the leisured, with the
vote which requires for its effective handling wealth, leisure, ex-
perience, knowledge, and morals, is a mere freak of extermination.
It is the freedom we give the rat when we loose him into the ring
where the terrier waits for him.
Those who hate a system worse than they hate the devil will always
overcome those who only love it as well as their dinner. Those
to whom life is a worship are invincible before those to whom it is
only a dicker.
Soldiers can build railroads as well as kill men. They could dig
ditches to irrigate the American desert as well as to make fortifi-
cations. An army mobilised to create wealth instead of destroying
it could be certainly self-supporting under the economical and effi-
cient methods of our American system. A call for volunteers among
the unemployed for a peaceful war with such enemies of themselves
and the race as starvation, disease, dirt and poverty would be
answered by millions. The military power of conscription is available
for dealing with the chronic tramp. Only by organising really and
adequately the opportunity for work can society get a clear moral
right to compel those to work who will not work voluntarily, and
when society has created this opportunity for all it should put the
relentless but merciful hand of compulsion upon all who would shirk.
An economic system which heaps up idle money in the banks and
idle men in the streets is spiritually a sin, economically a waste, and
we will make it legal outlawry.
There are phenomena in the field to indicate that the co-operator
and democracy are not poorer but better business men ; that there
is a better political economy than the political economy of individual
self-interest, and that is the political economy and self-interest of
all the individuals; that the business man, the capitalist, was good
enough as a pioneer and as a scout for the people, but he cannot
produce wealth fast enough nor well enough to be a permanent
8o OUT WEST
figure in any part of the business world where the co-operator or
democracy can enter it.
The people are searching the Bible for material for constitutional
amendments, and the Sermon on the Mount has become a campaign
document — as it was meant to be.
We cannot pray best on our knees. To worship, we must keep
by the side of our Christ, withstanding with him the temptation
of the kingdom of this world, going about doing good, healing the
sick as he healed them, having compassion on the multitude as he
had, and finding bread to strengthen them to hear and do the truth,
with him driving the thieves and money changers out of the temple,
and with him ending the divine service only with life, if life ever
ends.
No man can be truly religious who believes in the God of yesterday
or rests in the God of today. There is no salvation save in the God
of tomorrow.
If the foregoing extracts fail to stimulate any reader of these pages to
get the book for himself, no recommendation of mine would be of any avail.
Yet I will say that no thoughtful man can afford to remain ignorant of
this — by far the greatest work of a man who was a devoted and intelligent
lover of his fellow men. Doubleday, Page & Co., New York. $2 net.
If a beautiful girl of seventeen will allow herself to drift out to sea alone
on the night of her betrothal day, she ought not to be surprised at anything
that happens to her. What happened to Hope Carmichael (as Mary Powell
tells it, in The Prisoner of Ornith Farm) is to be picked up by the villain of
the story, who is cruising conveniently near, and carried off to his country-
place, there to be held until she agrees to marry him. An exceedingly fas-
cinating villain he is, too, and one almost wonders that the heroine resists
him to the last, escapes, and is rescued as she is at the brink of recapture. A
clever mixture of drama, melodrama, mystery, and some humor. Charles
Scribner's Sons, New York, $1.50.
Three lectures delivered by J. G. Swinnerton in 1898, before Morning Star
Lodge, F. & A. M., are now published under the title, The Origin of Masonry.
And well they deserved publication. Mr. Swinnerton has done a really bril-
liant bit of work — work which can only come from painstaking scholarship,
illumined by genuine humor and warmed by hearty human interest. I com-
mend the volume warmly not only to members of the Masonic Order, but to
every man who likes good reading. The Whitaker & Ray Co., San Francisco,
75 cents net.
In the preface to her Bridge Abridged, Annie Blanche. Shelby states that it
is "designed chiefly for such as would like as comprehensive knowledge as
possible of Bridge play and the principles governing it, at a minimum expendi-
ture of time and effort." As to which I am fain to remark that no comprehens-
ive knowledge of anything was ever yet attained by any one who tried to get
it at a minimum expenditure of time and effort. The Whitaker & Ray Co.,
San Francisco. $i, net.
California Mammals, by Frank Stephens, is the more valuable and important
since no general work covering the mammals of this State had been published
since 1857. It covers the field briefly, but thoroughly and satisfactorily. Mr.
Stephens describes 256 species and subspecies of mammals which have been
found within the State, or in sight of its shores, this number including the
cetaceans and the bats. The volume is illustrated by W. J. Fenn, from studies
in the field. It should be in every public and school library in the State, and in
most private libraries that seriously deserve the title. West Coast Publishing
Co., San Diego. $2.50 net.
That old stand-by, The Young Folks' Cyclopaedia of Common Things, by
John Denison Chapman, now appears in a third edition thoroughly revised,
enlarged and brought down to date. The first edition was published in 1879,
and a comparison of that with this gives striking evidence of the enormous
expansion of the field of "common knowledge" within this generation. Henry
Holt & Co., New York, $2.50.
Charles Amadon Moody.
8i
TULARE COUNTY AND THE CITY OF
TULARE
By EDWARD A. DE BLOIS
M BRACED within the borders of the great State of California
are several wonderful valleys, each a vast empire in itself,
and each an important factor in the rapid development and
marvelous progress of a State whose very name suggests
sunshine and gold, and fruits and flowers. By far the largest
and most important of all is the great San Joaquin Valley, a
princely domain, 250 miles in length and from 40 to 80 miles in width,
embracing eight counties. Upon one side it is flanked by the mighty Sierra
Nevada, the highest range of mountains in the United States, and upon the
other by the less lofty parallel Coast Range. From the western slope of the
rugged Sierras there flows into the valley a series of splendid rivers, that
fork into numerous branches, forming true delta lands like those of the
Nile or Ganges. Ages ago these rivers and streams would overflow, inun-
dating the whole country, and thus were deposited the rich layers of silt
and sediment that today nourish vines and fruit trees, waving fields of grain,
and great pastures of alfalfa.
In the heart of this mighty valley, midway between San Francisco and
Los Angeles, lies Tulare county, containing an area of 4,935 square miles,
a territory about the size of the State of Connecticut. This portion of the
valley is especially favored. It includes on its eastern border lit Whitney,
the highest mountain in the United States, and wonderful mountain scenery
rivaling in grandeur and beauty anything to be seen in the Yosemite Valley.
Here also is to be found the Sequoia National Park, a reservation by the
government of the largest forest of the Sequoia gigantea in existence. There
are more than three thousand sequoias in this grove that measure over fifty
feet in circumference and three hundred feet in height. The "General
A Sample Tree from one of TuUre'i Oak Porceti
Lw* 1 *
» -t
TULARE COUNTY AXD THE CITY OF TULARE
83
Sherman'* in this forest is said to be the largest tree in the world. Trout
streams are abundant, and mineral springs, while lakes clear as crystal and
fathomless are numbered by hundreds.
Draining into Tulare county are three great streams — Kings river, the
Kaweah and the Tule. They furnish abundant water for irrigation and the
development of power, while under the ground there is to be found a vast
reservoir of water, forever replenished from the slopes of the Sierras, which.
through the agency of pumping, furnish an auxiliary to the immense
irrigation system now so firmly established throughout the county.
Lying adjacent to the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, and
stretching from the northern to the southern limits of the county, is the
On the Tule River, Tulare County
famous citrus belt, where the orange and the lemon thrive to a degree
unsurpassed, and where these fruits ripen earlier than in the southern part
of the State, thus always finding the first and best market. Farther out
on the plain deciduous fruits are grown in great abundance and highest
perfection. Nowhere in the world can grapes of better quality be found
than in this section, and nowhere has the vine a greater productive capacity.
Sugar-beets, cereals, apricots, prunes, nectarines, figs, apples, olives, plums,
almonds and walnuts all find their homes here, while Tulare peaches have
taken premiums at all the great national fairs held in the United States,
and at the Paris Exposition they were awarded first prize in competition
with the whole world.
There is no country under the sun more thoroughly adapted to the dairying
industry. Alfalfa grows to its fullest perfection, and stock requires DO winter
TULARE COUNTY AND THE CITY OF TULARE 85
protection. As a horse-producing section it is unsurpassed. The climatic
conditions for speed development, early maturity, an abundance of feed of
every kind and variety, with never- failing green pastures, reduce the cost
of rearing a horse to a minimum.
Enthroned in the midst of this smiling garden of fertility is the city of
Tulare, containing a population of about 30CO. From a commercial point of
view it is well located, as two great trans-continental lines of railroad— the
em Pacific and the Santa Fe — pass through it. The business life ol
Tulare rests upon a permanent foundation — the agricultural resources of a
wonderfully rich and growing country. Ets Stores are modern and up-to-
date, while its merchants are energetic and progressive. Two creameries
disburse among the dairymen over $250,000 a year, while cattle and hogs
are raised in large numbers, and many thousand dozen of eggs and much
A Tulare Residence Street
p lu'.try are -hipped away each month. Two large packing-hou-es fur-
nish employment for many men and women, and boys and girls during the
fruit season, while but two miles from town is located the famous Paige
orchard and vineyard, the largest in a single body to be found in the Slate.
and one that also give- employment to several hundred people.
: year- the schools of Tulare have had a wide reputation, many pupils
r:g from a distance in order to avail themselves of the High School privi
It- many churcln the deeply religious sentiment existing among
the inhabitants, while two daily ami weekly newspapers, and a beautiful free
public library mark the community a- one of literary and reading tastes.
From â– scenic standpoint Tulare pr< charming picture It- brick
bush • are among the handsomest in the valley. It- streets are wide
and clean and well graded, and are bordered everywhere with beautiful shade
while its many park- and lawn- and magnificent (lower gardens fascinate
TULARE COUNTY AND THE CITY OF TULARE 87
the eye and fill the air with perfume. The country about is especially rich in
bird life and the sweet songs of the mocking bird and the meadow lark charm
the ear with sounds of ravishing melody.
The healthfulness of this locality must not be overlooked, as of the two cities
of the State having the lowest percentage of mortality, Tulare is one. No
doubt this fact can be ascribed to the purity of its drinking water, the supply
being furnished by artesian wells averaging four hundred feet in depth. After
undergoing a chemical analysis at the State University, Professor Hilgard
pronounces this water to be the best in the State.
Almost any fruit, cereal or vegetable grown anywhere can be successfully
raised in Tulare County. The soil in the foot-hills contains exactly the ele-
ments necessary for the growth of citrus fruits, while the land on the plains
is a deep alluvial loam, rich in nitrates and potash, just the constituents needed
for the nourishment and growth of deciduous trees. The large orange and
lemon groves, the immense fields of grain, enormous vineyards and flourishing
orchards of all kinds, testify most eloquently to the adaptability and quality
A Business Block in Tulare
of the soil. It has been known for many years that the land in this vicinity is
especially adapted to the production of sugar-beets, and the recent erection of
a large sugar-beet factory has resulted in the planting of several thousand
acres to sugar-beets throughout the county.
There is a large field in Tulare County for the industrious raiser of poultry.
The climate is wholly favorable, and a few acres and a few hundred chickens
will yield a good income to anyone who will give the business close attention
and the benefit of ordinary judgment.
Much of the land tributary to the City of Tulare is embraced within what IS
known as the Tulare Irrigation district, the system having been constructed
through the aid of money secured by the sale of bonds issued by the district
to the amount of $500,000. In October, 1503, the district paid off those bonds
and all accrued interest, and thus the vast system with its 300 miles of canals
and ditches, belongs to the land embraced within the irrigation district. There
• a dollar of indebtedness resting upon it, and there will Ik- no further cost
but the slight expense of keeping it in repair.
88
OUT WEST
In the vicinity of Tulare can be found much land that Is strictly "number
one" in quality. The reason that this land is cheap is that there is so much
of it — more than those now living upon it can properly cultivate. Several
large colonization projects are now under good headway, and with the large
number of colonists and homeseekers buying tracts and building homes, it will
not be long before the price of land in Tulare County will advance to the price
prevailing in other counties that are now more thickly settled.
The climate in this portion of the San Joaquin Valley is delightful. It is
never very cold in winter, while in summer heat-prostrations are unknown.
and the summer evenings are always delightfully pleasant.
Socially Tulare holds an enviable position. The genial disposition and good
fellowship of its people are widely known, and strangers and visitors are always
given a most cordial reception and made to feel that they are indeed welcome.
Illustrations from photographs by Doran.
A Tulare Sorinp-
89
porterville:, tulare county
By V. D. KNUTT
jjOl' who happen to glance at this page headed "Portervilie" and
are in search of a location to make your future home, or invest
in. cnn surely deem yourselves fortunate, for the reason that
you could find no better location in the State of California
than there is right here.
Portervilie. Tulare county. California, with its surrounding
country, is one of the most thriving localities in the State. It is situated
in a kind of vale at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountains, sheltered from
ms and winds, and an ideal spot in which to live. The climate is semi-
tropical, the atmosphere dry, and the weather ideal all the year round. '
Portervilie, although it has numerous resources, is mainly celebrated for
ranges, which have been acknowledged to be equal to the finest grown
anywhere. The lands that grow these superior oranges, as well as lemons
and grape-fruit, are of the finest adobe soil and lie on gentle slopes leading
to the foot-hills. The soil is deep and rich, of a quality which the orange
loves and out of whose elements by marvelous chemistry it extracts the juices
which fill it and the pungent oil which makes the rind to shine.
Water for irrigating comes from the Tule river and from wells, a large
body of water seeming to lie under the land at from 60 to 100 feet in depth.
For power to raise the water from these wells electricity is used largely,
a» well as gas and steam engines.
The orange shipments from this section alone have exceeded this year 430
car^. and of course will increase each year, as there are many young groves
coming into bearing all the time.
Among Portervilie Oranges
9°
O UT WEST
A Porterville Home
Where we have the advantage over other portions of the State in orange-
growing is in their early ripening — weeks ahead of other sections. The result
is that we are enabled to commence marketing the fruit the latter part of
October, which brings it to the eastern markets in time for the Thanksgiving
and Christmas trade. Thus we get the benefit of the first market prices,
which are always high.
There are still some fine lands which can be obtained at very reasonable
prices, but it will not be long before they are gone, as during the last six
months people have commenced to turn their heads this way. When they
see the opportunities which are presented to them, they do not go away
again, but buy the lands and start in planting them out. Land can be bought
at prices averaging from $40.00 to $125.00 per acre, according to the location,
and they are all excellent bargains, the higher price being where land is
sold with water, and the lower priced land being without water — which
can, however, be easily obtained by boring a well and pumping.
It takes about foiir years before an orange orchard will bear, but the cost
is not so very much when one takes into consideration the results which are
obtained later on. * It is generally customary to plant from 100 to 108 trees
to the acre, trees costing about fifty cents each. (It is hard to give the exact
cost of a tree, but it all depends upon the supply. When there is a big
supply, you can get them as low as thirty-five cents, but when the demand
is big and the supply short, they range from fifty cents to seventy-five cents
each.) You might figure five cents for digging the holes and putting them
PORTERVILLE, TULARE COUNTY
And Orange Orchard
in, and then about $100.00 to a ten-acre tract for extras in the way of
leveling, plowing or other preliminary work. After four years the crop,
will pay part of the expenses of running the orchard, and from that
time on, as the trees grow, naturally the crop will- increase. The prices
received for fruit from the various packing houses average from $1.25 to
Si. 50 per box. This year the majority of the growers received an average
of $1.50, which was very satisfactory.
Porterville has not been very largely advertised and for that reason
you who may be reading this article may not have heard of this district — but
we can assure you that it would pay you to come and investigate personally.
It is a hard matter to explain conditions on paper and also a hard matter
to answer all questions that way, but if you are here on the spot, then
you can see yourself that these few lines do not tell by lialf what advantages
there are to be obtained here. Besides, on the other lands, which are not
suitable for orange culture, all kinds of deciduous fruits flourish. The
grape especially ripens here with a large percentage of sugar in it. and tin*
dewless nights of September, the "maturing and drying month, make the
curing of the harvest easy and rapid.
We also have fineTx>ttom lands for alfalfa, which yield large and profitable
crops, four cuttings to the year being not unusual. This supplies a targe
dairy and cattle industry which we have. In fact, there is not any crop,
either of fruit, vegetables or cereals, that, with proper methods of culti-
vation and intelligent handling, will fail to yield large returns on i n v est ment,
92
O U
WEST
On a Port rville Dairy Ranch
As stated above, Porterville has many resources to draw from. Wheat is
a very big factor ; about 70,000 acres are planted annually west of the city.
Sheep,' cattle and other livestock form the basis of a big industry. Large
quantities of wool, hogs, cattle and horses are shipped out. In fact, any
industry can be profitably followed up. Timber-lands are in abundance, and
saw-mills are running in the mountains with good results.
If you are looking for a home and an investment, do not fail to stop off
at Porterville. It has the climate as well as the water, the natural advan-
tages, and above all reasonable land values. You can get four times the
A Summer Resort Near Porterville
PORTERVILLE, TULARE COUNTY
93
A Young Orange Grove Near Forterville
amount of land for the same money as in some better advertised parts of
the State — land as good in all respects and better in some. Furthermore,
as already explained, you will be able to place your oranges on the market
before if. is glutted by fruit from other sections, and so will have the cream
of the prices.
Speaking of the mountains, it is there where the sportsman or lover of
beautiful scenery can get his fill. All kinds of wild animals abound therein
and the fishing is the best in the world. Within one day's travel you can
get there, and many people go there to camp during the summer time
and enjoy a delightful rest.
Two electric power-plants, deriving power from the 'Pule river, which is
adjacent to this town, are now being installed east of Porterville. and when
completed will furnish cheap power for pumping purposes or anything else
required.
Porterville has a population of nearly 2000 inhabitants. It is incorporated
and is really a beautiful town with its picturesque surroundings. It is
lighted by electricity and has every requisite for the home-seeker, including
The Porterville High School
Built from grjnitc quarried within t»o milei of Poterville
94
OUT WEST
telephone and telegraphic service and an up-to-date water supply plant. Its
school facilities are excellent. It has four school buildings, including granite
high-school building recently put up at a cost of $35,000; four church build-
ings; and nearly all the fraternal orders are represented, as well as- the
religious denominations. It has two banks — one State Bank, the "Pioneer,"
and the National Bank of Porterville ; also a good opera house, which has
recently been remodeled.
Although on a branch of the railroad, we have fairly good railway service
and receive mails from the east and the west twice daily. Stages run
daily to the various outlying districts, there being every convenience in that
line.
Of health resorts there are many, the most prominent one at present being
the Deer Creek Hot Springs, which are located 35 miles southeast of Porter-
ville. These springs are becoming celebrated ; the natural hot water which
constantly flows from them the year round has been found to have great
curative powers for rheumatism and numerous other ailments. There is a
good hotel and excellent accommodations at the springs, and only recently
have capitalists purchased an interest in this place with a view of investing
a large amount of money in it and making them second to none in the
United States, they having recognized the possibilities to be gained.
Space is too limited to dwell at length on the advantages to be obtained
from this locality, and all we can suggest to you is what we have stated
above. Come here yourself and you will find that the facts have not been
manufactured. This is really a beautiful section of the State, and you will
feel well paid by your visit.
Irrigation by Pumping; at Porterville
95
EARLIMONT COLONY, TULARE COUNTY
By WILLIAM A. SEARS
T IS unfortunate both for the tourist and the home-seekers from
the East and South that the main lines of both the Southern
Pacific and the Santa Fe railroads are laid over the part of
Tulare County, where they now run, instead of skirting the
Sierras. Thus, in place of the monotonous sameness of vast level
areas covered with scanty vegetation, one might pass through
green fields of alfalfa, by splendid dairy farms, through sections of waving
grain, around fine vegetable gardens, along extensive wine and raisin vine-
yards, by long rows of apple, prune and olive trees, through orchards of the
most luscious peaches grown in California, view enormous fig trees, see fields
of early peas and early melons, and most beautiful of all the finest groves of
early oranges to be found in the world. A stranger passing through Tulare
county, along the present route of overland travel would never dream of the
varied scenery, the green foothills, the snow-capped mountains, the sparkling
mountain streams, flowing through shady channels, the little sheltered coves,
the jagged rocks, the deep gorges, the giant trees, the beautiful mountain val-
leys, the waterfalls, the camps' and summer resorts — Nature in her wildest
moods or decked in her gayest colorings. It is only when the knowing one
stops at the little junction and takes the back track for Porterville that he
begins to drink in the beauty and grasp the idea that here in the eastern portion
of Tulare County is to be found one of the grandest and most beautiful regions
on earth, a scenery beyond description, a soil of the greatest fertility, a climate
noted for its salubriety and mild winters, where the orange trees thrive be-
Bird* Ey* View of Earlimont Lands
9 6
OUT WEST
yond compare and the grower has no fear of the chilling frost and does not
have to sleep with one eye open so he can jump at the tinkle of his little frost
alarm and start his smoke-pots going to save his crop — a land of wonderful
opportunity, where values are not only not inflated but as yet not up to the
normal and where a prudent investment in almost any line of activity will
yield an unusual return.
In this strip of early orange land are several shipping points of note ; first
on the north being Exeter, a prosperous little town built out on the plains a
short distance from the foothills with a population of perhaps seven or eight
hundred. Some five or six miles further south is Lindsay with a population,
perhaps a little greater, also a flourishing and progressive town and shipping
point for early oranges. It drains a section of country seven or eight miles
The Grass Csvered Slopes of Earlimont
north and south along the foothills, as it draws from half-way to Exeter on
the north and half-way ,to Porterville on the south.- Lindsay, like Exeter, is
built out on the plains and thus lacks that picturesqueness of location so notice-
able in Porterville some eleven miles to the south.
Porterville, a city incorporated under the sixth class, May 2, 1902, and with
a present population of 2000 or more, is the center of the early orange growing
section. Nestled in the foothills of the Sierras at the mouth of Tule River
Canon, with the majestic mountains towering above her to the East and the
broad expanse of the valley to the west, she occupies a location unsurpassed
for beauty, health or business enterprise.
Commanding the gateway to the Sierras, she draws the lumber and mining
interests of a vast region and is the starting point for all the mountain camps
and summer resorts of the Forest Reserve, while surrounding her on three
sides are magnificent orange groves yielding the richest of harvests. To the
EARUMONT COLONY, TL'L.-IRE COl'XTY
97
west and southwest stretch miles of fertile nlfalfa lands and grain fields, while
southward along the foothills the available lands are rapidly being set out to
early oranges, figs, olives and grapes. As yet in its infancy, Porterville has
indeed, a bright future.
As we go southward along the foothills we find the crops gradually ripening
earlier, till we reach the colony of Earlimont. on White River, just now being
opened for settlement. So well is this fact known among the older settlers
in this part of the country that those who are not already owners of fine groves
are preparing to take advantage of the liberal offers made by the Earlimont
Colony Company, to secure tracts for planting early oranges, grapes, figs,
olives, deciduous and small fruits and early and winter vegetables. The whole
secret of this interest is found in that little word early for it is that quality
that brings in the golden returns.
s3Q|
'• ■: * •*'"
*L^^
ki*> '-â– iafc'i
J * ; 'ft -A
ii i
• ' r
>.'.& *-â– ' '('V'
-- / *,* » -J
mjf W^«
... 1 H 1 1 1
> ,
By the River Side in Earlimont Colony
Located in the rolling lands of Porterville and four to eight miles east of the
branch line of the Southern Pacific railroad, its topography is such that while
-(•curing the pure and bracing mountain atmosphere, it allows the cold air to
drain away, thus producing a fresh and equable climate, unsurpassed for in-
vigorating healthfulncss and accounting for the extreme earltness*of its vegeta-
tion, allowing fruitful autumn to clasp the hand of beauteous Spring while
even graybcard Winter sits by and smiles as the little birds -ing of the swelling
buds secure from the chill of the Frost King's icy grasp
Having lands un>urpa»*ed in richness and fertility, a landscape of great
natural beauty, that will not only appeal to the lover of Nature but will inspire
the painter and the poet and respond to the â– ttbtlest touches of the landscape
gardener, the Earlimont Colony comprise- probably the very earliest portion
of the early section of California.
9«
OUT WEST
It requires no stretch of the imagination to conceive of oranges, grapes and
other fruits a fortnight earlier than in the noted districts around Exeter,
Lindsay and Porterville as trees and vines now bearing prove the truth of the
claim and the growth of natural vegetation some four weeks in advance of
theirs shows that for winter and early vegetables the Earlimont Colony will
be unsurpassed in the whole state. This vicinity has long been noted for
earliest grass, earliest wheat and earliest beef and mutton in the entire state
and will require only the intelligent planting and care of fruits and vegetables
to add them to her list.
Taken the year around, Earlimont will show as many pleasant days as the
more famed coast counties that sell their climate ; and even the summers,
though warm, are exceedingly healthful. The bracing mountain atmosphere
deprives the heat of its depressing and debilitating qualities and the soft
Park Seine in Earlhnont Colony
early breezes, together with the dryness of the air, tempers the warmest
weather so that sunstroke is unknown and the nights are c^ol and pleasant.
As there are no swamps, malaria and kindred diseases are unknown and for
general healthfulness it is unsurpassed.
Another great advantage possessed by the Earlimont Colony is that lying so
near to the Sierras, it requires but a few hours drive in a carriage to reach
the beautiful mountain camps and summer resorts where hunting and fishing
are plentiful and where one may drink in the grandeur and beauty of Nature
in its wildest mood, with an atmospheric temperature of almost any degree
desired during the entire summer and where one interested in mining can find
ample fields for prospecting for gold, silver, copper and chrysopase and other
minerals and precious stones.
Taken together, the Earlimont Colony and the mountains present a com-
bination unsurpassed in famed California. Meandering down through this
strip of early lands the Earlimont Colony, comes the beautiful mountain stream
EARLIMONT COLONY, TULARE COUNTY
99
known as White River, thus furnishing what in this portion of the state must
be considered even before the fertility of the soil. There is no gamble in re-
gard to water in the Earlimont Colony.
In regard to citrus fruits, this country has passed the experimental stage
and her name heads the list in the production of early sweet oranges, as she
ships more than two-thirds of the citrus fruits produced north of the pass and
always the earliest cars from the State. The navels ripening in October are
marketed so as to control the Thanksgiving and holiday trade, thus securing
extraordinary prices and as the crop is gathered before the cold weather sets
in, the fruit reaches the distant markets with a much smaller percentage of loss
than is usual to the later southern oranges. The Valencias ripen their fruit
also when the markets are bare, thus insuring ready sale and high prices, a
grove of them being a veritable gold mine in itself.
Transplanting Cuttings, Earlimont Co'ony
The shipping of early and winter vegetables is sure to develop large propor-
owing to the richness of the soil and favorable climate and the location
trlimoii;, midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, allows of
either local market while the. north and east are in easy reach.
A great advantage that the early belt posseses is the fact that citrus and
kindred trees and fruits are entirely free from scale or smut, thus escaping
the heavy expense of fumigation. The total absence of heavy winds which
scar and mutilate the fruit on the trees allows it to present for market, fruit
beautiful in appearance and free from blemish, smut or scale, without the ex-
pensive and detrimental scrubbing necessary where scale exists. This climate
has been proven to be unfavorable to the scale and with ordinary care no
trouble from it should ever arise. Earlimont Colony in particular, is so situ
ated, being so surrounded by grain fields and stock ranges where water is
ioo OUT W EST
not available for irrigation, that it is separated from other groves and can
easily be quarantined should the county ever become infested in any manner.
Orange groves in Tulare County when well cared for begin to bear the sec-
ond year after planting and increase in production rapidly each succeeding
year, the fourth season rolling up a balance on the right side of the ledger
over and above all expenses.
Below are a few of many similar statements taken from records of different
groves as they have actually produced which easily verify every assertion herein
made. I quote from average groves under average conditions :
Mrs. C. N. Flanders from seven acres of two-year-old trees, season of 1904,
shipped 27 packed boxes, and from the same orchard season of 1905, 84 boxes.
A much larger yield could have been realized had the trees not been heavily
Earlimont Park
pruned of their bearing wood in order to bring them to a more symmetrical
shape.
Her next neighbor, Mr. Geo. C. Murphy, from 10 acres of two-year-old
trees shipped, season of 1905, seventy-six packed boxes, which at $1.50 per box
— less than the average price — would amount to $114 — or, $11.40 per acre clear.
Dr. W. H. Clark, from 106 two-year-old buds on older roots, shipped 145
packed boxes, and from 120 Lisbon lemon-trees, four-year-old tops on older
roots, netted $750 — season of 1905.
Mr. C. A. Boston reports that his three-year-old. orange trees have paid ex-
penses ; from six acres, at four-years-old, season of 1903, with the poorest
prices known here, he cleared $900. or $150 per acre. In 1904, five and three-
quarters acres of same trees yielded a net return of $1320, or $229.57 per acre.
Season of 1905, from five and one-half acres of navels of same grove, now six
BARLIMONT COLONY , TULARE COUNTY
101
years old, he shipped 1250 packed boxes and will realize at least $1.50 per box
net.
Mr. M. Davidson, one of the oldest orange growers in this vicinity, states
that his two-year-old trees have always yielded some, his three-year-old trees
about one-third of a box per tree, his four^ear-olds three-fourths of a box.
at five years one box. at six, two boxes, and at seven years — this year — his
trees yielded over three boxes per tree, which at $1.50 per box net would mean
about $500 per acre clear. Mr. Davidson further states : "A sixteen-acre grove
that I sold this spring, the trees varying from two years to what we call full-
bearing, yielded a net return of over twenty per cent on the purchase price of
twenty thousand dollars, after paying for all expenses for the year including
cost of fertilization, irrigation and cultivation.
Mr. Win. Duncan, from 450 trees, with 50 of them re-budded and hence not
White River in Eailimont Park
bearing, reports: In 1898 I shipped 5 boxes which netted me $750; in 1899.
27 boxes, bringing $38; next year. 14S boxes, netting $250; next. ^7 1.
bringing $487; next 500 boxes selling for %7C2\ in 1903, a year of poor prices
(owing to fruit being shipped too green), 650 boxes, clearing $585; in 1904.
710 boxes which brought $735; and 1905. 710 boxes netting $916. The last
three year> have used about an average of $40 worth of manure, the water hill
—all ditch water— has been about $45 per year for the 4V2 acres, and all other
expenses about $25 per acre per year.
From the lK)ok> of Winter Haven Grove, owned by Mr. J. II. Williams, we
take the following: Season 1904. ten acres three-year -old. 40 acres eight-year
old and twenty acres nine-year old— in all, 70 acres— 17,802 packed boxes. In
11 of 1905. same grove. 21.131 packed boxes, making 5X carloads of 96a
to car and netting over $1.50 per box.
loz OUT WEST
Similar reports might be multiplied and some figures given exceeding any
here reported, but our aim is to quote a fair average for the whole orange pro-
ducing strip. Those getting in the earliest pools realized nearer two dollars
pr box than the $1.50 quoted, but the above figures will accurately show what
an average man or an average grove might reasonably expect.
The Calimyrna fig, the olive andvhe early table-grape, will also yield a hand-
some profit, rivaling the orange groves; and winter and early vegetables will
not rank least when quick returns and good prices are considerd.
When it is understood that the settlers in the Earlemont Colony will reap
the earliest harvest each season, the attractiveness of the offers now made to
home-seekers is apparent. At the present writing, a flourishing school is
located on the lands and a hotel, store, postoffice with daily mail, telephone and
all the accessories for modern convenience will soon be added, and churches,
packing houses, oil presses, pickling and drying plants, canneries, etc., will
follow as required. Sunday school and church services are now held in the
school house.
In addition to the Southern Pacific depot, some five or six miles west of
Earlimont, it is only a question of a short time till a network of electric lines
will traverse the whole region, as two wealthy competing corporations are
completing immense power-plants in the mountains of Tulare county and are
already seeking avenues for using the fluid generated. It is our sincere belief
that California with all her varied energies, presents no surer or more profit-
able field for investment for the man of small means as well as for the
capitalist. A place well cared for will allow of crops of early vegetables grown
between the rows of trees, requiring but a few months to produce returns,
so that the home-builder may make a comfortable living while waiting for his
trees to come into bearing, and the man of means can see a goodly rate of
interest on his investment from the very start without considering the advance
in values from settlement and extended investment. Bear in mind the fact that
what makes city property sell by the front foot is simply the number and
kind of inhabitants it possesses. Earlimont is a winner.
KEEP YOUR EYES ON
PALO ALTO
THE J. J. MORRIS REAL ESTATE COMPANY
Invite your attention to the following
facts about the town of Palo .Alto.
Palo Alto has 5,000 population. Two Banks. Four Public School Buildings.
Seven Churches. A College of Photography. Three newspapers. Free Mail
Delivery. A Good Fire Department. Perfect Sewerage. Artesian Water System
owned by the Municipality. Electric Lighting Plant owned by the Municipality.
-ed valuation Two and a Quarter Millions of Dollars. The seat of the Leland
Stanford Junior University, the most richly endowed institution of learning in the
world. 35 Miles of Concrete Walk, 15 Mails Dispatched and 15 Mails Received daily.
The Best all round Climate in the World.
For full information about investments in Palo Alto or Santa Clara County, write
for the free copy of the Real Estate News, our monthly publication.
The J. J. Morris Real Estate Co.
J. S. LAKIN, President. J. J. MORRIS, Manager. MARSHALL BLACK, Secretary.
J 20 University Ave., Palo Alto, California
IMPERIAL c
San Dieg'o County
alifornia
THE METROPOLIS OF THE IMPERIAL VALLEY
F IMPERIAL AVENUE. IMPERIAL. IMPERIAL HOTEL IN FOREGROUND
Imperial is the center of the largest body of irrigated land under one system in the United States,
and Hon. Frank W. Mondell of Wyoming, chairman of the Irrigation Committee of the House of
Representatives, said after a recent visit: "I consider the owners of land in the Imperial Valley among
the luckiest farmers in the United States They are singularly blessed by nature and by man. They
have everything that they could ask to make themselves well to do. They have the soil, the climate,
the WATER, and the location, with railroad facilities for marketing! their crops, and good and
constant markets for their products close at hand." For further information address any of the
following:
H. N. Dyke, Secretary Chamber of Com-
merce
Imperial Land Co.
Varney Brothers Co., General Merchandise
Edgar Brothers, Implements
A. L. Hill, Hardware
Salisbury Realty Co., Real Estate
F. N. Chaplin & Son, Real Estate
Imperial Valley Abstract, Title & Trust Co.
I. L. Wilson, Real Estate.
The City
of
Fullerton
2,000
Inhabitants
On the Santa Fe R. R., 23 miles S. E. of Los Angeles. Largest shipping point between Los An-
geles and San Diego. THE ONLY PLACE where the celebrated Valencia orange is successfully grown.
Has received the highest price ever paid for a box of oranges.
EXPORTS: — Oranges, 750 car loads; Walnuts, 100 car loads; Cabbage, 250 car loads; Miscellaneous
vegetables, 100 carloads; Hay and Grain, 25,000 tons; Crude Oil, 1,500,000 barrels. For further informa-
tion write to W. W. Kerr, President of the FULLERTON CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, or John R.
Gardiner, Secretary, Fullerton, Cal.
Benchley Fruit Co., Packers and Shippers.
Gardiner & Fora, Real Estate.
Fullerton Chamber of Commerce.
Stern & Goodman, General Merchants.
Wm. Freeman.
E. S. Richman, Orange County Nurseries.
Wickersheim & Oswald, Implements and Ve-
J. Chilton, D. D. S.
Fullerton Hospital Association.
Wm. Starbuck & Co., Drugs and Stationery.
Thos. A. Challis, Butcher.
Chas. C. Chapman.
How To Make Money
In Raising Chickens
A man who has learned
how by doing it has written
a book telling all about it,
down to the smallest detaib.
He is now taking $1500 a
year from five acres devoted
to poultry — not raising fancy
chickens, but supplying poul-
try and eggs to the market.
No Reason Why You Shouldn't
do likewise, if you have the
•gumption.'* Needn't feel
troubled because you haven't
the experience. The author
of this book was a sea-cap-
tain till a few years ago, and
had to find out as he went
along. His book will =ave
you that trouble, or some of it.
Sent postpaid, on receipt 0/ price, $/ .25.
OUT WEST MAGAZINE CO.
LOS ANGELES
FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA
" l£t SKYLIGHT CITY " A Great, Place for Health, Pleasure and Sport,
Nestling at the base of snow-capped San Francisco Mt.. always protected from biting
blasts by the vast pine forest, you'll find this bustling little city, not only a pleasant
place to visit, but a fine place to locate and engage in business. 7,000 feet above sea
level. A paradise for the hunter and fisherman. Finest public building in the ter-
ritory. "The Gateway of the Grand Canyon." The home of the North Arizona State
Normal. Two splendid hotels which make special rates to summer guests. Indian
curios and blankets are found here in abundance. Water works supplied with moun
tain-spring water, the best on earth. For particulars addrc>s any of the following:
Arizona Lumber and Timber Co. Hotel Weatherford The Citizens Bank
Babbitt Bros., leading Merchants Commercial Hotel
Earlimont Colony
Tulare
County
California
A Land of Opportunity
A Land of Promise
Earliest Section
Of California's
Early Belt
EARLIEST
That's What Counts
Earliest Oranges
Earliest Grapes
Earliest Figs
Earliest Olives
Quickest Returns
Extraordinary Prices
Gathering the Earliest Oranges in the
State near Portersville.
EARLIEST VEGETABLES
EARLIEST DECIDUOUS FRUITS EARLIEST SMALL FRUITS
Soirth of Portersville, earliest part of Tulare Coum.,. Rolling upland. At base
of Sierra foothills. No killing frosts. No scale. No »//iut. No diseases. No
heavy winds. A beautiful landscape. Responds to landscape gardener's art. Pure
air. Unsurpassed climate. Remarkably healthful. Well located. Abundant cheap
Water. Virgin soil, extremely rich. Close to railroad. Near to mountain camps
and resorts. Splendid hunting and fishing grounds in easy reach.
FIRST SUBDIVISION— TO THOSE WHO WILL IMPROVE
Earlimont Colony Co. will care for property of absent owners. Land with water only
$50.00 per acre. Purchasers given benefit of land at about one third usual price in
preference to other modes of advertising first subdivision. Large tracts for sale for
subdivision. A crop of early vegetables will pay for land first season. Orange
groves begin to bear second season and increase rapidly each succeeding year till they
net from $300 to $600 or more per acre. Good grammar school already on property.
Store, postoffice, telephone, etc., will soon be established. A flourishing town soon.
Electric roads in near future. Get in early and avoid the rush.
Address all communications to WM. A. SEARS, Portersville, Tulare County, Cal.
SAN FERNANDO
The
Ideal SpoL
for a
Home
The Finest Citrus Fruits
in the World
Are Grown in the San
Fernando Valley
Balmy air, laden with the perfume of orange blossoms, fields carpeted with
myriads of wild flowers, and the majestic mountains raising their peaks oveT all.
The long-sought haven for sufferers from asthma.
250,000 acres of the most fertile soil in Southern California, on which is grown
every product of the soil.
For information address
Secretary, Board
of Trade
San
Fernando
California
Petaluma
A Typical Chicken Ranch at Petaluma
SONOMA
COUNTY
CALIFORNIA
PETALUMA
GREATEST POULTRY SECTION ON PACIFIC COAST
Best facilities for diversity of agricultural pursuits, stock-raising, dairying, together
with finest climate to be had in the State. Sonoma County ranks third in the State
from an agricultural standpoint.
HAS good banks, excellent schools, churches, daily
newspapers, planing mills, lumber yards, iron foundry,
steam and electrical railway and river transportation,
good stores, etc. ONE HOUR'S RIDE FROM SAN FRANQISCO. Excellent
Climate, Moderate Rainfall. Healthful! If you are looking for a home on a small
investment, come to Petaluma. Write SECRETARY CHAMBER OF COM-
MERCE or any of the following well known firms:
J. W. Horn Co., Real Estate; Geo. P. McNear, Grain and Feed; D. W. Ravens-
croft, "The Courier"; Bank of Sonoma County; The Petaluma National Bank;
M. Zartman & Co., Wagon Mfrs.; Cavanagh & Whitney, Lumber and Planing Mill;
Camm & Hedges Co., Lumber, Millwork and Tanks; Schluckebier Hardware Co.
Poultry business means ready-
money harvest every day in
the year. SUCCESS
means starting in the
light location
Petaluma
has advantages over any other section of the world for poul-
try, which has made it famous. Why >. Highest cash
market, low freight rates to San Francisco, which is only 36
miles distant. It is healthy, prosperous. Many men make
a better living and more money on 4 acres than many do on
150 acres elsewhere. We invite you to come to Petaluma
and see for yourself. Petaluma has not that laborious and
expensive habit — irrigation — having sufficient ra'nfall to
insure cr.ips. Temperature f om 40 to 80 deg. The sec-
tion most advantageous for one of moderate means Your
opportunity. Start now. We offer 4 acres rich land, good
house, barn, poultry houses ( near town ), for $1400, on easy
terms. 6 acres rich sandy loam soil, near Petaluma, ft-room
house, barn, houses for 1503 hens, family orchard, 4 incu-
bates, broodes for ioco chicks, horse, wagon, harness,
cow, tools, 500 hens — nice home, ready income — price only
%f 500. For full information wiite
Petaluma Realty Co.
PETALUMA, CALIFORNIA
Matured
STANDARD
BRED
Eggs
$2.00
per 15
January
to
July
Barred PI
Roc
Light, Br
Buff Orp
S. C. W. L
ymouth
ks
ahmas
ngt-ons
.eghorns
ONLY birds
1
A Limited 1
CAPT
Sa
t>hat have MOULTED are
jsed as Breeders
Amount of Choice Stock for Sale
AIN MITCHELL
nta Barbara, Cal.
Tulare
CALIFORNIA
Heart.
of the
San Joaquin
Valley
A Tulare (California) Fig Tree
THE CITY OF TULARE is the business center of a large and prosperous
farming territory of surpassing fertility. It has a population of 3,000, and is a
thriving, progressive community. Its social life is of such a character as to make
of it a very desirable home town. It has first class schools, churches, and a free
public library.
An Irrigation
System Covering
40,000 Acres
and having 300 miles of canals and distributing ditches, surrounds the city, and
belongs to the land free from all indebtedness.
Good Alfalfa Land, $30 to $50 per Acre, Plenty of Water
Two small creameries ship two tons of butter daily to Los Angeles. The new sugar
beet factory pays $4.50 per ton for beets, and fifteen tons and upwards can be easily
raised to the acre.
If interested send for our free illustrated booklet.
M. C. ZUMWALT, Secretary Board of Trade
TULARE CITY, CALIFORNIA
A Pasadena Home
PASADENA
HAS BEEN CHOSEN AS THE SITE OF A GREAT WOMAN'S COLLEGE
Pasadena has close to 14,000 people, the best of public and private schools, churches, and thousands of happy homes and
no saloons. Over l,?oo building permits were issued last year, and the indications are that a much larger number will be called
for the present year. Pasadena climate and environment are ideal. For detailed information write to
D. W. COOLIDGE, SECRETARY PASADENA BOARD OF TRADE
Turlock
Is located 127 miles south
of San Francisco, in the
San Joaquin Valley.
Stanislaus
County
California
Exhibit gathered by J. K. Mills in the Turlock District.
I have some splendid farms (improved) that I could sell for from $100 to $175
per acre, and I have lands to sell in small tracts at from $35 to $100 per acre. This
is good land free from alkali or hard pan — splendid for afalfa, and will produce all
kinds of vegetables (sweet potatoes, beans, peas, tomatoes, Irish potatoes, pumpkins,
melons, etc.), all kinds of grapes and fruits, including oranges, pomelos, lemons, etc.
Our climate is excellent. Abundance of water goes with the land.
You cannot make
a mistake by
investing with
Call on Him at XxirlocK, or -write
J. ft. MILLS
For a Piece of THis
Land
FREE
DEED
IF YOU
DIE
You Pay If You Live
ASK US ABOUT IT
FREE
DEED
IF YOU
DIE
TOWNER TERRACE
An Ideal Home Spot in Santa Monica, the Beautiful City by the Sea
Every lot is high, dry
and fertile — not hilly
— just high enough
above the surround-
ing territory to give
an unobstru cted
view of the ocean
and an uninterrupted
sweep of the delight-
ful ocean breeze.
Towner Terrace
Lots Will Pay Big
Profits to Prompt
Buyers
The City of Santa
Monica is growing
very rapidly, in size,
population and com-
mercial importance.
Towner Terrace is in the heart of the city, the best residential district, close to
the business center and only eight blocks from the world famous beach, with
quick car connections in every direction. The city is bound to grow rapidly for
many years — land values cannot help but to double quickly — the prices of Towner
Terrace lots are not inflated — we are selling them at the first price — with every
improvement guaranteed. Send for our free booklet "TOWNER TERRACE," it
explains the proposition thoroughly. It is free.
••$10 DOLLARS PER MONTH WILL DO IT"
Southern California Real Estate Investment Co.
One of the Five Banks at Santa Monica
free
DEED
IF YOU
DIE
608 Pacific Electric Bldg., Los Angeles, Cal.
We Pay If You Die
ASK US ABOUT IT
FREE
DEED
IF YOU
DIE
.J
* n mm
mm m m m
HOW $10.00
Will Lay the Foundation iot a
Home in California
Not only a home, but a TEN-ACRE RANCH under
full cultivation, which will support a family with every
comfort and luxury. Located in the famous
SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY
the most fertile section of the entire State of California.
AN ABUNDANT SUPPLY OF WATER
Produces large crops of Alfalfa, Grain, Fruits and Vege-
tables. Unlimited markets close at hand. Climate unsur-
passed. Always summer. No waste of time on account of
ice and snow.
Our easy monthly payment plan places the secur-
ing of svicH a Home WITHIN the REACH of all
NO SUCH LIBERAL OFFER EVER BEFORE
MADE TO THE PUBLIC
$10 DOWN and $10 PER MONTH on IO ACRES
GOLDEN STATE REALTY COMPANY
Golden State Really Uldg.
6O8-IO S. Spring St.. Los Angeles, Cal.
Gentlemen: Please send me full particulars
about your proposition whereby I can secure a
home in California on your .new plan. Also
send me a copy of your magazine Free.
Name »
Street and No '.
Town and State
SoutHern Pacific and
Santa Fe R. R. furnisH
unexcelled transporta-
tion facilities
Cut out coupon and write today for
full particulars and a copy of our
beautifully illustrated magazine, telling
all about California, which will be sent
you
ABSOLUTELY FREE
View of
San Joaquin
River
The Fresno Irrrigated
Farms extend eight
miles along the
river at this
point
The Fresno Irrigated Farms Co.
CLIMATE
Mild winters, Warm dry
summers, Cool nights.
SOIL
A Rich sandy loam that
grows anything.
PRODUCTS
Greatest variety of crops
known in any country of
the world.
IRRIGATION SYSTEM
Finest irrigation system in
California— low rate of 62^
cents per acre, per year —
80 miles of ditches now on
tract.
26,000
ACRES
of Land
$35 per Acre and Upwards
NEW TOWN of
KER.MAN
JUST STARTED
ALFALFA RANCHES
Dairy herds on credit — ask
us about them.
RAISIN LANDS
Suitable land for raisin
culture in the only raisin
secton in the U. S.
VINEYARDS
Table grape or wine grape
lands.
MODERN
CONVENIENCES
Rural free delivery — Tele-
phones, Electric power,
Lights, etc.
ORCHARDS
All fruits known ito Cali-
fornia grow here.
Fresno Irrigated Farms Company, Inc.
Main Office, 405-408 Kohl Bldg., San Francisco, Cal.
Los Angeles Office, 125 Pacific Electric Bldg. Fresno Office, 2154 I St.
J&J&
The Flaming
Tokay Grape
The most productive
grape raised in
California
SALT LAKE CITY
is the
center
of an empire
1,000 miles
in diameter
Is the
largest
smelting center
in the
world
Its smelters will soon be treating 600,000 tons per month, which is more every month in tons than all
the mines in Colorado produce every month. There are five mines in Utah that have now blocked out
and in sight EIGHT HUNDRED AND FORTY MILLIONS OF DOLLARS, viz:
The Cactus $ 80,000,000
The Silver King 25,000,000
The Centennial Eureka 60,000,000
The Utah Copper Co 625,000.000
TJie Honorine 50,000,000
Total $840,000,000
"and then some."
All of it — all of the money from the ore — comes to Salt Lake, and besides millions more from the
farms and ranges of the Inter-mountain Country.
The new Clark Road from Salt Lake to Los Angeles shrinks the continent 500 miles, and puts
the two cities 24 hours apart. The WESTERN PACIFIC, Gould's Coast Line, is about to be built.
It will parallel the Southern Pacific and open to Salt Lake some more of the "NEW NEVADA."
The Moffat Line is building from Denver, and in connection with the Clark Road will cut the time
between Denver and Los Angeles to 38 hours
These and other reasons, man and God given, mart Salt Lake as one of the great coming interior
cities of the West. It is easily reached.
YOU CAN BE HAPPY AND GET RICH THERE
The climate is the best in the world. You will be welcome. Don't wait. Go now. The nowist
beats the early worm. Write any of the following for further information:
Wilson-Sherman Co., Real Estate, Hubbard Investment Co., M. L. Cummings, Real
Estate, Homer & Robertson, Real Estate, J. L. Perkes, Real Estate, Young & Young,
Real Estate, Tuttle Bros., Real Estate, Salt Lake City Real Estate Association,
Ranck Real Estate and Investment Co., A. Richter, Real Estate, Meeks & Lynch,
Real Estate, W. J. Halloran, Real Estate, Westerfield & Crismon, Real Estate,
Walker Bros., Bankers, Cullen Hotel, McCormick's Bank, Brown, Terry & Woodruff
Co., Real Estate.
BUT
SEE
"See other agents if you will"
M. L Cummings
IF YOU WANT TO BUY OR SELL
Salt Lake City JgS
153 S. MAIN ST.
The best and most profitable investments to be had
in Salt Lake are listed on our books. All correspondence
cheerfully answered. Write for booklet about Great
Salt Lake City.
Wonderful Lindsay
The most wonderfully beautiful, healthful, productive and
California today is the
prosperous spot in
Lindsay District
The rate of development is little short of marvellous. People are coming in
crowds and making homes on its fertile soil. It is worthy of note that hundreds
are coming from such favored spots as Southern California, and are settling in
this wonderful district.
You need to know about this marvellous country if you are thinking about
changing your location. You need to know about the unexampled fertility and
productiveness of its fertile soil and genial sunshine; about its climate, the most
healthful and comfortable to be found; about its beautiful orange groves, vine-
yards, orchards and prosperous homes; about its cheap lands, abundant water, its
fine market and shipping facilities, and its happy and contented people, and we
want to tell you about them all.
A Lindsay Orange Tree.
Lindsay is 250 miles southeast of San Francisco and is 125 miles from the
t, in the great San Joaquin valley. Its products embrace nearly all the crops
that can be produced elsewhere, from oranges to Indian corn. The climate i.s
perfectly wholesome and healthful, and more comfortable than can be found
anywhere east of the Rocky mountains. Oranges, peaches, figs, melons, in fact
almost anything one can think of succeed perfectly here. There is abundant
water for irrigation and crop failures on irrigated lands here are unknown. Write
Hi for further information. When writing, if you will State jusl what information
you want we will be pleased to furnish it.
Central California Realty Co.
LINDSAY
CALIFORNIA
Brawley
the
Garden City
of the Great
Imperial Valley
OFFICE BRAWLEY IMPROVEMENT COMPANY
Brawley is noted for its early cantaloupes, early grapes and all kinds of early vegetables. The re-
turns from these crops have exceeded $100 per acre. In addition to this intense farming Brawley is
the center of, and has tributary to it over 100,000 acres^ of the finest agricultural land in the valley,
where hogs, dairying, sheep and general farming has proven very profitable. These lands are all
irrigated with an unlimited supply of water taken from the Colorado River. For full information
about town and acreage property, address any of the following:
Imperial Investment Co.
Hot/ley & Cady, Real Estate
Stanley & Kellogg, Real Estate
C. M. L.. & C. Co., Store
Edith Meador, Post Office and Store
C. Darnell, Merchant
Nellie Pellet, Merchant
T. D. McKeehan, Merchant
Imperial Valley Bank
Hutchings & Co., Hardware
Varney Brothers Co., General Merchandise
Edgar Brothers, Implements
Comfort and Pleasure the
Year Round at
Oceanside
SAN DIEGO
COUNTY
CALIFORNIA
Fishing on the Pier.
Speaking of climate, did you know that you could be comfortable every month
of the year at Oceanside? It is the IDEAL HOME SITE, with no extremes of
heat or cold — a climate unsurpassed. Oceanside is growing now and prospects for
the future are excellent. The largest reservoirs on the Pacific Coast are now being
built on the headwaters of the San Luis Rey in the' mountains 30 miles from the
coast. The water will first be used to generate electric power and will then do duty
in irrigating the fertile lands in Oceanside and vicinity. Come and see what we have, or
Write Oceanside Board of Trade, or the following:
P. J. Brannen, Hardware.
J. Chauncey Hayes, Real Estate.
E. D. McGraw, Real Estate.
Thos. C. Exton, Druggist.
Goetz Bros. & Co., General Merchandise.
Frank Freeman, Dairyman.
Irwin & Co., Implements and Hardware.
Bank of Oceanside.
O. S. Hecox & Co., Real Estate.
Geo. P. McKay, Stationery.
Martin Bros., Butchers.
Oceanside Lumber Co.
J. D. Morrow, Jeweler.
••*•*
•^ffcn
•>•*'<;- '
Walnut Culture in Whitticr
Is very profitable. Last season the crop paid the growers $361,587,48 in
net returns. There has been about 100,000 young trees set out this spring,
which insures good results later on and will assist largely in making our
present prosperity permanent. We have a clean city, with every modern
improvement ; gas and electric lights, paved streets, fine schools, and ele-
gant churches — No Saloons — a fine college, up-to-date in every way, backed
up by a valley of rare fertility.
Prospective settlers should look over this section before locating per-
manently.
For information, etc, address Secretary Board of Trade, Whittier, Cali-
fornia, or the following :
Locke & Rendleman, Real Kstatc. Whittier National Hank. M. IIorton. Pioneer Stables
First National Bank of Whittier. Whittier Home Telephone Co. H. E. Humphrey, Hardware.
S. W. I'.arton & Co., Real Estate The Kmson Ki.ectric Co. F K. Weeks, Grocer.
Green'leap Hotel. Whittier Hardware Co. Fred I,. Raldwin, Pacific Cafe.
C W. Clayton, Real Estate & Insurance The Wiiittikr Milling Co. E. J. Vestal. Grocer.
Whittier College. I.andri m Smith, DniRRist GSO, I,. Hazzakd, Insurance.
A. EL Dunlap. Levi I). Johnson, M. 1). C. (*,. Warner. L. A. Hryan, Furniture & Pictures.
A. Jacobs & Co., Groceries. )â– '.. H White. Furniture and I'ndertakinR. Tri man Herry, Rancher.
Metropolitan Music Co., S. A. Browa, Pratt I*. A. Jackson, City Market. Alva Starbuck.
TAKE PACIFIC ELECTRIC CARS FROM 6TH AND MAIN STREETS, LOS ANGELES
SANhS^yJOSE
"The Garden City of the "World" and the Famous
Santa Clara Valley, California
50 miles south of San Francisco. Most equable climate along the Pacific Coast.
Richest Valley in Productiveness. Growing! Growing !! Growing ! ! !
"Write for Facts to any of the following;
T. S. Montgomery & Son.
Christmas & Orvis Co.
Jos. Rucker & Co.
James A. Clayton & Co., Inc.
W. M. Smith & Co.
Blakemore & Atkinson.
J. E. Fisher.
Johnson & Temple.
St. James Realty Co.
Crawford & Challen.
W. M. Cooper.
E. J. Crandall.
Garrison, Crowe & Wilson.
W. J. Lean & Co.
Foss & Hicks Co.
Jas. W. Rea & Co.
Harrenstein & Landess.
Eureka Investment Co.
W. S. Kaufman.
Garden City Bank & Trust Co.
Chas. W. Coe.
T. C. Barnett.
Porter, Conklin Realty Co.
First National Bank of San Jose.
Case Bros.
Doerr's New York Bakery.
G. A. Adams.
Albert Harris, Santa Clara, Cal.
Walter A. Clark Realty Co., Mountain View,
Cal.
F. A. Poland, Mountain View, Cal.
Parkinson Bros., Mountain View. Cal.
William P. Wright, Mountain View, Cal.
San Jose Chamber of Commerce.
Do Yotu $ee TDnatt Tree?
It takes soil, water and sunshine to make a tree
like that. This grizzley giant stands near Chico,
in the great Sacramento Valley of California. The
soil that grew that tree will raise five crops of
alfalfa in one season, without irrigation.
CHICO, BUTTE COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
B. Cussick.
Sears <&. Buckley.
Home Real Estate Co.
C. C. Royce.
Bank of Butte County.
Write to the Chico Board of Trade, or
tbe following firms
J. A. E. Shuster.
Brown & Williams.
Diamond Match Co.
W. J. Costar.
Taber &. Hamilton.
Baker, Jones &. Smith.
Warren & Vadney.
James H. Jones & Co.
Do you
know
That
Madera County, California
Offers to the H USBANDM AN some of the BEST, and positively the
CHEAPEST farm land in. the State? CALIFORNIA shareswith
this COUNTY its GLORIOUS CLIMATE and its
lands of MILK and HONEY
THIS IS THE LAND that will TAKE good care of YOU
if you will care for it
Write the BOARD OF TRADE, at MADERA, CAL, for information
"TiTe City by the Mountains"
Monrovia
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Located at the base of the
Sierra Madre Range, under the
protection of "the
everlasting hills."
This charming city of 3,000 people is reached
by a double-track electric line from
Los Angeles. It is the dwelling place
of the contented. The people have learned
to almost worship the mountains, and
all praise the curative properties of the
air and water. Those who love beauty in
nature and would combine city and suburban
life will find
An Ideal Spot here
Frank J. Cornes, Groceries, Crockery, Etc.
Board of Trade
First National Bank of Monrovia.
The American National Bank
C. E. Slosson, Real Estate and Insurance.
Edison Electric Co.
Farman &. Rives, Real Estate and Insurance
Monrovia Telephone Co.
Monrovia Realty Co.
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ADDRESS
W. H. Evans, Real Estate and Notary.
The L. W. Blinn Lumber Co.
The Boyd Lumber Co.
C. F. Moore, Real Estate and Building
Loans.
J. A. Baxter, Livery and Feed,
l/ionrovla Steam Laundry Co.
Allen H. Nye, Hardware and Plumbing.
J. H. McClymonds, Jr., Civil Engineer.
Escondido
San Diego
County
California
tuated 500 miles south
and 300 miles east of San
Francisco out of the geologi-
cal earthquake district.
It has all the advantages
in water system, schools,
climate, etc., offered by any
locality in California. The water system being owned by the people makes the rate
reasonable, as it is only for maintaining and running the system. There is no out-
standing indebtedness neither water, school nor city bonds. Its ideal location gives
it the finest climate in the world, it being only a few hours' drive from the coast.
The valley is the natural home of the grape, lemon and orange; one grower shipped
three carloads of lemons and two of oranges grown this season on five acres of
land. One car of lemons brought him $1,100 f. o. b. Escondido. It ha.s cheaper
unimproved lands than any place in the state, all in the irrigation district. Escon-
dido is a live and progressive city, the home and trading center of several thousand
people. For further information and descriptive literature address, the
Chamber of Commerce, Escondido, Cal.
Docs It Make Any Difference To You
Whether you get your oranges off
in Xovembelr and December as
they do at Porterville and get the
i<>p price, or wait as they do else-
where until the market is glutted
and prices low?
Does It Make Any Difference To You
Whether you pay $40.00 to $60.00
per acre for as good alfalfa land
as ever lay out of door-, with wa-
ter, such as you can get at Porter-
ville or twice that for no better
land elsewhere?
Does It Make Any Difference To You
Whether you rai^e stock in a coun-
try that is ideal for stock and
poultry such as you find at Porter-
ville. free from the many'pe«t> and
annoyance*, or try an up-hill pull
at the business elsewhere?
DOES IT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE TO YOU—
I'ut hold on Stranger, just write to any of the (inns below who will .-end you a copy
Of PRACTICAL RESULTS that TELLS THINGS TRUTHFULLY and tells you
what you want to know. x
If you have never heard — Porterville is in Eastern Tulare County and hafl made
greater progress in the last three years than any locality in the Btate.
Pioneer Land Co., Real Estate. Pioneer Banking Co. H. E. Ford, Real Estate.
W. E. Premo, Real Estate. W. A. Sears, Real Estate.
Porterville Lumber Co. First National Bank. Geo. D. Avery, Real Estate.
A. J. DeLaney Co., Hardware, etc. Hall &. Boiler, Real Estate.
Wilko Mentz. General Merchandise. Williams &. Young Co., Cattle and Dairying.
LONG BEACH
CALIFORNIA'S GREATEST BEACH RESORT
at tfeJ C^pe^J^JB^
'*" ;S ^r |#
â– -â– - - â– â– -*
Hotel to be Erected at Long Beach at an Expenditure of $350,000.
POPULATION 16,000
Thirty-five minutes' ride from Los Angeles brings you to Long Beach, 21 miles
due south. A model city, with a most excellent school system, water, light and power
plants; six banks, with assets of more than $3,000,000.00. Streets oiled and a great
many paved. The finest climate, due to its direct south exposure. It is reached by
the Southern Pacific and Salt Lake Railway Systems and the Pacific Electric Rail-
way, the finest electric system in America, if not in the world.
The Bathing Beach is 14 miles in length, of hard white sand, with a width of-
300 to 600 feet.
A feature of interest to all visitors is the Long Beach Bath House, an institution
unequalled in America, containing Warm Salt Plunges, and all forms of baths. This
institution maintains during the summer months, a complete Life Saving Service,
offering visitors absolute safety whilst surf bathing.
Address any of the following firms for copy of the new booklet on Long Beach.
Just out:
F. W. Stearns, Real Estate.
Mayhew & Putnam, Real Estate.
Geo. H. Blount, Real Estate.
Frank P. Pingree, Real Estate.
Shaw & Gundry, Real Estate.
E. C. Covert & Co., Real Estate.
Walker Real Estate Co.
Seaside Water Co.
The National Bank of Long Beach.
Townsend- Dayman Investment Co., Real Es-
tate.
Long Beach Bath House Co.
J. W. Wood.
L. A. Perce.
Young & Parmley.
J. M. Holden.
C. J. E. Taylor.
Alamitos Land Co., Real Estate.
Ca 1 i fornix
©>6<2 Home of tl&e
AND THE
PARADISE
OF THE
SCHOOL
CHILDREN
Grammar School Building
Just remember that our school
properties are worth over
$200,000
and we can keep them up, too, for
our property owners will receive
this year over $3,000,000 for their
orange crop alone.
Public Library
i
^^__^_- iiB^M BBIbI Hk
kttii B
.... ., . â– -~
High School Building
Write any of the following
and see what they say
Newport Lumber Co.
Riverside Land Co., Real Estate.
The Glenwood Hotel Co.
First National Bank.
Riverside Savings Bank & Trust Co.
Russ Lumber &. Mill Co.
E. J. Oatman, Orange Grower.
J. B. Oatman, Orange Grower.
Robert Lee Bettner, Real Estate.
W. W. Wilson, Real Estate.
Riverside Trust Co.
W. T. Thompson, Real Estate.
Jarvis & Dinsmore, Real Estate.
California Iron Works.
SANTA CLARA, California
The Best Town in the Best County i£ e United States
Best for Climate, Soil, Water and Health.
Best for a Home, for Educational advantages, for Society, for Churches.
Every Agricultural and Horticultural product grown in the Temperate Zone, is
grown here to perfection.
Fruit growing, the growing of Hay and Grain, Dairying, and the raising of
Poultry pay better here than in any other country.
Santa Clara employs more labor than any Town of three times its size in the
State.
Here the middle classes have better homes and live better than in any place in
the WORLD.
SANTA CLARA
Is a Town of Municipal Ownership. We own our GAS, our
WATER., and our ELECTRIC Plants
Address any of the following for further information:
Robert A. Fatjo, Real Estate. Santa Clara Commercial League.
Killam Furniture Co., Inc. Santa Clara Undertaking Co.
Santa Clara Realty Co. Vargas Bros., Grocers.
Enterprise Laundry Co. R. H. Cheney, Merchant.
Sallows & Rhodes, Grocers. M. Vargas, Merchant.
Santa Clara Cyclery. M. Mello, Shoes.
N. M. Clark, Confectionery. Morrison Bros., Contractors and Builders.
Crosby & Leask, Dry Goods. Roll Bros., Real Estate.
ORANGES
WE CLAIM MOST PERFECT CONDITIONS for the culture
of this famous fruit. Most profitable orchards in the State. We can
show you, come and see for yourselves. Progressiveness with sub-
stantiality our motto. Six miles from Redlands. Write
Secretary Chamber of Commerce, Highlands, California
Climate
Perfect
o
ParK
Location
Ideal
THE BEACH BEAUTIFUL
Environment Delightful
If you are seeKing
Business, Pleasure, HealtH, ^rVealtH or Happiness
This is the place to find them all
THE BEST
BEACH BOATING HOTELS
BATHING FISHING
IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Reached in 35 minutes from Los Angeles, via Los Angeles, Pacific Double-track
Electric Railroad; 15-minute service.
OCEAN PARI! BANK
[established 1902
Cor. Pier Avenue and Trolleyway
T. EL Dudlev. President Carl F. Schader, Vice. Pres.
P. J. Dudley, Cashier
Directors: Wm. Mead, Carl F. Schader, W. A. Penny.
OCEAN PARK, CALIFORNIA
Sunset 2641
Home 4020
HOTEL DECATUR
T. O. EVANS, Proprietor
On the Beach, Ocean Park. California
Overlooking the Old Pacific : :
RATES: Kuropean, $i day and up.
American, $2.50 and up
We find the Bargains
Southern California
Realty Co.
I n cor po rated under the Laws of California
Capital Stock $75,000.00
Branch - Hollister Ave. and Ocean Front
Venice Office \'o. 10 Windward Ave
I'laya Del Key Office .... Opposite Depot
138 Pier Ave., Ocean Park, Cal
There is good Reason for our Listings of Beach
Properties Being the Largest in Southern California
Guaranty Realty Company
Mrs. Geo. Sihley, President
140 Pier Avenue
Guaranty Realty Bldg.
Ocean Park, California
Venice <>f America
Ocean Park
Bath House
Not only the largest and finest, hut the only Bath
House on the Pacific Coast that is steam heated
throughout during the winter months.
OPEN THE YEAR ROUND
Hut Salt Plunge and Tub Raths — Surf Bathing.
OCEAN PARK, CALIFORNIA
grlPValoma tpii.et5?ap
AX ALL
DRUG STORE?,
'■■IS »
^ ,
-I.'-. | i f -\
BmIi
m
1 If
â– â– w .
41
I [j
LgM^
• .. ; jzm b as mw
OXNARD
Hotel
Oxnard
one
of
Call*
fornia's
popular
Hotels
THE B EAUTI FUL
lohe Home of the American Beet
Svigar Company. (Founded in 1898)
Has now 3000 population. Located in Ventura county, 66 miles from Los Angeles, in the best
farming district in the state of California. Every business known to first class California towns is
represented here. No property bought and sold for speculative purposes, and property is today worth
par value. Water works, electric light, two telephone and telegraph companies, two banks, best of
schools, good churches.
For further information address SECRETARY BOARD OF TRADE, or any of the following
well known firms:
People's Lumber Co.
James F. Fulkerson.
Oxnard Hotel.
Myers & Coplanalp, Contractors and Builders.
Bank of Oxnard. H. W. Whitman
Hobson Bros., Stock Dealers and Butchers.
American Beet Sugar Co.
Oxnard Light & Water Co.
Colonia Improvement Co.
Lehman & Waterman.
For tKe Indians
THE SEQUOYA LEAGUE is aidin S the Mission Indians not
â– only by remedying abuses and trying
to get them better lands, but also by extending the. market for their BASKETS.
A representative collection is on sale, for the benefit of the Campo reservations,
at reasonable prices and fully authenticated. These baskets cart be had of
Mrs. Chas. F. Lummis, 200 Avenue 42, Los Angeles
60 Additional Baskets, of Much Variety, Recently Received.
Prices, $2 to $10
THE MONEY GOES TO THE INDIANS
Ramona Toilet *So a p
FOR £, ALE
EVERYWHERE
OROVILLE
CALIFORNIA
The Queen City of Butte County
PKHir SCENR NEAR OROVILLB, QALIFOKNI A
.Oroville is the county seat of Butte County, California. It is at the end
i if S. P. from Marysville. on direct line of the Western Pacific. Is the terminus
of the northern electrical line from Chico.
More than $7,000 in gold is taken daily from the soil by dredging in the
Oroville vicinity — over 35 dredgers in operation.
A moderate and even climate.
Oranges, olives, lemons and other fruit grows in abundance here.
Land can be had from $15.00 to $100.00 per acre.
The home of the Ehmann Olive Oil.
Has two excellent banks.
The Union Hotel, one of the best hotels in Northern California.
Water and light in abundance, and hay, grain and live stock are staple
products.
Further information can be had by addressing Secretary Chamber of Com-
merce, or any of the following well known firms:
L. H. Alexander, Merchant.
Ehmann Olive Co.
Union Hotel and Annex.
R. S. Kltrlck, Lumber.
Oroville Light & Power Co.
Ophir Hardware Co.
John C. Gray, Fruit Grower.
Bank of Rideout, Smith & Co.
E. C. Tucker & Son, Real Estate.
First National Bank.
T. W. Green & Co., Real Estate.
Z. D. Brown, Real Estate.
W. P. Hammon, Dredoe Mining.
Perkins & Wise Co., Merchants.
E. Meyer & Co., Merchants.
Lausen &. Fetherston, Searchers of Records.
SAN JACINTO
Riverside County, California
CHEAP
LAND — $40 to $75 per acre
WATER Artesian
WOOD— Oak, Cottonwood and Pine
BUILDING STONE— For the hauling
/ LUMBER— Native Product
\ LIME— Native Product
BETTER LOOK INTO THESE ADVANTAGES BEFORE BUYING
Altitude 1500 ft.
Climate Unsurpassed As little fog and wind
Cool Nights, Dry Warm Days As any place
No Fleas, Mosquitoes Scarce In Southern California
For any further information address
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE OR
R. J. Carmichael & Co., Stationers.
S. J. Mead, Enterprise Cash Grocer.
Roy Malone, Real Estate.
State Bank of San Jacinto.
Tripp & Hopkins, Butchers.
A. W. Wright, Banker.
J. F. Hards, General Merchandise.
Ralph W. Buckley, The Quality Grocer.
C. E. Bunker, Rancher.
M. A. Aguirrie, Rancher.
F. B. Record, City Engineer.
A. Domenigoni, Rancher.
Francisco Pico, Stockman.
C. L. Emerson, Cashier State Bank.
Martin Meier, Lumber Dealer.
GLENDALE, CALIFORNIA
CHARMING IN ITS INFINITE VARIETY
For the Home Builder, ideal in location and environment.
Fifteen minutes distant by electric road from the city limits of Los Angeles.
City conveniences with country comfort.
Climate unsurpassed, free
from extremes of heat and
cold.
Abundance of mountain
water.
For fruit growing, flower
culture and vegetable garden-
ing soil unsurpassed and a
market at the door.
Lots and acreage at reason-
able figures; an investment —
not a speculation.
For further information write any of the following:
Bank of Glendale, R. A. Blackburn, Real Estate; Holman & Campbell, Real Estate; Glendale Improve-
ment Association, E. D. Goode, County Road Overseer; T. Gilman Taylor, Seedsman; J. H. Wells,
Geo. U. Moyse, Wm. A. Anderson, Contractor and Builder; J. F. Mclntyre, Lumber Yard;
F. W. Mclntyre, Real Estate; E. K. Grant, Contractor and Builder; Thos. O. Pierce, Livery;
Kober & Tarr, General Merchandise; A. L. Bryant. M. D., Dr. R. E. Chase.
W *V til ' *
tXSmdkiPaim 1. unit â– W '*â– ' ,*
■■«
Now Is The Time
"S
40,000 Acres of a Fine Old Spanish Land Grant, now being
subdivided and offered for sale to those who wish a home
amid the most attractive surroundings.
SCBNB ON THE MOL1NOS RIVER
V.
If you are Lired of a cold climate, if waving palms, golden oranges and green
grass look better to you than ice and snow, if you want a climate where you can
work every day in the year, you had better take advantage of the subdivision of this
great Spanish Grant that is for the first time being offered for sale. Fertility of soil,
river and rail transportation, electric car line under construction, telephone, electric
lights, and abundance of water for irrigation, are some of the advantages of this
great Estate. As a productive investment or for speculation this tract of land ia
unequaled, its rapid advance in value being absolutely certain.
People buying from us in the early subdivision of this vast Estate will probably
never have another opportunity so advantageous.
This is the time. Come now or write immediately for booklet and full in-
formation.
SMITH CROWDER
Manager Los Molinos Land Co., Los Molinos, Tehama County, California
CAPITAL OF PLACER COUNTY
CALIFORNIA
A beautiful, healthful city, lo-
cated in the mountains, where the
climate is unexcelled, and where
you can grow peaches, pears,
plums, oranges and olives. . Dairy-
ing, stock raising and creameries.
COURT HOUSE AUBUKN
Special Inducements for
Tourist Winter or Summer Hotel
J.- H. Wills. Real Estate.
Auburn Lumber Co.
W. W. Rodehaver, Real Estate
William G. Lee Co.
Freeman & Walsh
J. W. Morgan, Dry Goods.
E. S. Birdsall, Olive Oil.
SCENE OF BEAN FIELD NEAK (iKIDLEY
FOR DIVERSIFIED FARMING
Come to
GRIDLEY
California's Greatest Garden
Gridley, Butte County, California, is
one of California's best towns of 2000
population. Has excellent stores, bank,
newspaper, cannery, packing, house,
machine shops, grain warehouse, best
of public schools, churches. On main
line of the S. P. Railroad, 160 miles
from San Francisco.
CROP FAILURES ARE NEVER KNOWN.
Fine irrigation system has just been completed. Resources and opportunities
are abundant. Good land can be had reasonable. Several farms have recently been
subdivided and can be had in whatever acreage wanted, at reasonable terms. If you
are coming to California, write for booklet of Gridley, Butte County, California.
Address Secretary Chamber of Commerce, or any of the well known firms:
J. H. Jones, Real Estate.
W. H. Gilstrap, Real Estate.
Wm. Brown & Co., Stock Dealers.
The Rideout Bank.
W. H. Hall, General Merchandise.
D. J. Parker, General Merchandise.
Miller Bros., Retail and Wholesale Liquors.
J. C. Adams, Retail Liquors.
HANFORD
Capital of
Kings County, California.
THE FARMERS' PARADISE
WITH A GOOD EVEN CLIMATE
A KINGS COUNTY SCRMi
The chief city of Kings County is Hanford, a population of 4500.
Hanford is reached by the main line of the Santa Fe Railroad system, and by the west
side through lines to San Francisco of the Southern Pacific system. Its railroad facilities are
therefore excellent.
Hanford is fully equipped in an educational, religious and social way, having school advantages
from the kindergarten to the high school course, and the various religious denominations, with well-
built churches, represented; contains upwards of twenty-five fraternal and beneficiary organizations,
several public halls, elegant opera house, fine hotels, two daily and weekly newspapers, four banks,
a free public library, a well-organized fire department, with excellent Holly water system; a sewer
system built and owned by the city, some of the finest and best equipped mercantile establishments,
electric light and power plant, a large and latest improved gas manufacturing plant which makes
fuel and illuminating gas from crude petroleum; a modern ice plant that supplies the local demand
and ships much to other cities and towns, a condensed milk manufacturing company, cheese factory,
packing houses and canning establishment employing many hundreds of people; a large winery, flour
mill, lumber mill, machine shop and all the necessary adjuncts to a lively and progressive interior city.
KINGS COUNTY j£
the BEST IRRIGATION FACILITIES
THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA, and
raises a diversified line of produce and fruits, namely: Alfalfa, Wheat,
Corn, Potatoes, Barley, Apricots, Plums, Peaches, Nectarines, Grapes,
Prunes, Raisins, and all Cattle.
Kings County is, as its name implies, king of counties in California.
For further information address any of the following well known
firms in Hanford, who will gladly go into details:
Chas. King Land Bureau.
E. E. Bush, Land Bureau.
Farmers <&. Merchants' National Bank.
Barney & Kelly, Groceries.
The Old Bank.
Tom S. Esrey, Wholesale anl Retail Liquor.
Central Lumber Co.
First National Bank.
McCourt S. Newport, Clothing.
L. S. Chittenden & Co., Real Estate.
Freeman Richardson, Laundry.
S. C. Kimball, Dry Goods.
Artesia Hotel.
The Hanford National Bank.
Cousins & Howland, Druggists.
Joe D. Blddle, Real Estate.
W. C. Gallaher, Butcher.
H. G. Lacy Co., Electric Light Works.
Municipal
Bath House,
being erected
at a cost of $25,000
by the city of
Paso Robles
to popularize
the famous
mineral waters
of that place.
The only one
of its kind in the
United States.
Paso Robles
Famous
Notable
for its mineral wa-
ters ana their mir-
aculous cures.
for its genial cli-
mate, rivaling any
place in the world.
RemarKable for its cheap lands and its productive power
D
n p. J to be the most important trade center between San Francisco and Los Angeles.
" ** Paso Robles is the trade center of the northern end of San Luis Obispo County,
e s t 1
and is backed up by a most prosperous and healthy farming community. The town site is acknowledged
to be the most beautiful of any place on the Pacific Coast. To settlers and to residents it offers the best
there is to be had in California. For further particulars address
SECRETARY BOARD OF TRADE
or any of the following reliable firms:
M. R. Van Wormer, Real Estate.
Paso Robles Bath House Co.
Geo. F. Bell. General Merchandise
Sperry Flour Co.
Bank of Paso Robles.
Paso Robles Light & Water Co.
A. Pfister, Banker.
R. C. Heaton, Furniture.
W. C. Bennett, Druggist.
Lundbeck & Hanson, Blacksmith.
Pre-Columbian
Relics
Genuine Prehistoric
Pottery, Ornaments and
Implements. DIRECT
FROM THE RUINS in
Arizona and New Mexico.
Collectors supplied. Se-
lect what you wish from
my collection, examina-
tion by photgraph or as
desired. Prices reason-
able.
Write for descriptions
of specimens found in ex-
plorations of the ruins;
personally conducted ex-
cavations. Address
Reamer Ling
St. Johns, Arizona
Member Southwest So-
ciety, Archaelogical In-
stitute of America, etc.
ANYVO THEATRICAL COLD CREAM
prevents early wrinkles. It is not a freckle coating: ; it re-
moves them. ANYVO CO., 427 North Main St., .Los Angreles
SUNNY
Stanislaus County
Modesto The County Seat
The Gateway County of the Great San Joaquin Valley, California, where
the land owns inalienably the greatest irrigation system — water and
canals alike — in America, owned by the people. The mecca of home-
seekers. The home of alfalfa, king of forage plants. Our dairying,
interests lead the State. No better soil and climate. Great fruit and
grape growing center. MODESTO the leading city of Stanislaus County
and the center of the irrigation district, is a modern city, with municipal
water works, electric light and power, a large and well-ordered hotel, four
banks, two daily and weekly newspapers, many stores of all kinds, and
other qualities and attributes of a city. It has about 3,500 population.
The streets are wide and the business part of the city is built of brick.
many of the buildings being ornate as well as substantial
Address for literature and further information
The Stanislaus Board of Trade, Modesto, CaL
or any of the following well known firms :
First National Bank.
J. W. Bell. Real Estate.
Maze <t Wren, Real Estate.
Stanislaus Land and Abstract Co.
Stanislaus Lumber Co.
W. B. Wood ASon, Hardware.
The Modesto Bank.
P. Latz, Dry Goods.
The G. P. Schafer Co., General Merchandise.
Donkin & Bacon, Plumbing.
Elmdale Land Co.
Farmers A. Merchants' Bank.
Modesto Gas Co.
Turner Hardware Co.
E. S. Brown, Retail Liquors.
SJIM LUIS OBISPO
Main Building
California
Polytechnic School
If you visit California — whether for pleasure, health, or home-seeking — a few days
spent in that picturesque portion of the central coast section surrounding San Luis
Obispo will prove a profitable investment of time; not alone in compelling a realiza-
tion of the amazing productivity and the marvelous variety of resources displayed
by California within a limited area, but because this region conveys to the imagina-
tion a vivid expression of the. true California atmosphere, the out of door life and
the perennial enjoyment of conditions so conducive to happiness and contentment
as to invite a careless dependence upon Nature's bounty that seems wanton in its
waste of time and material.
Fine Public Buildings. Excellent Graded and Paved Streets. Sewers, triumph
of modern science. Pure Mountain Water. Excellent Public Schools. Churches of
all denominations. The home of the California Polytechnic School.
For any further information address:
The San Luis Obispo Chamber of Commerce
or any of the following
Dawson Drug Co.
Union National Bank of San Luis Obispo.
Sperry Flour Co.
Andrews Banking Co.
San Luis Gas and Electric Co.
San Luis Implement Co.
Commercial Bank of San Luis Obispo.
Tobriner & Weisbrod, The Arcade.
San Luis Jewelry Co.
L. M. Fitzhugh, Photographer.
J. Crocker & Co.
NAVAJO BLANKETS
AMD INDIAN CURIOS *t w ho ies al e
I have more than 250 weavers in my employ, including the most skilful now
living, and have taken the greatest pains to preserve the old colors, patterns,
and weaves. Every blanket sold by me carries my personal guarantee of its
quality. In dealing with me, you will get the very finest blankets at wholesale prices.
I also handle the products of the Hopi (Moqui) Indians, buying them under
contract with the trading posts at Keam's Canyon and Oraibi and selling them
at wholesale.
I have constantly a very fine selection of Navajo silverware and jewelry,
Navajo "rubies" cut and uncut, peridots and native turquois. Also the choicest
modern Moqui pottery, and a rare collection of prehistoric pottery.
Write for my Catalogue
and Price List
J. L HUBBELL, "■<"»" T " d "
Ganado, Apache Co., Arizona
M E R C E D
CALIFORNIA
Merced, county seat of Merced County, is located in great fruit and
alfalfa section: population about 3000; modern improvements; High and
Grammar Schools ; Churches of all denominations ; strong Banks ; good busi-
ness houses ; four railroads ; the terminus of the Yosemite Valley Railroad.
Merced Falls — Head of Irrigation System
Water for irrigation plentiful and cheap*
Prices of land reasonable. Terms
easy* Climate dry and healthy
It is to the interest of Homeseekers to investigate the advantages and
opportunities offered at Merced.
Address Merced Chamber of Commerce, or any of the following well
known firms:
R. Barcroft &. Sons Co., Hardware.
Oliver A. Worden. Dry Goods.
Garibaldi Bros., General Merchandise.
T. O. Anderson, Real Estate.
The Commercial Bank.
C E. Kocher, Hardware.
Crocker- Huffman Land and Water Co.
Merced Lumber Co.
Heitman &. Heltman, Dentists.
Hudlburg Bros., Druggists.
S. K. Brantley, Bakery.
G. E. Nordgren, Furniture.
S. C. Cornell, Real Estate and Insurance.
E. L. Moor, Real Estate.
Hayes Company, Butchers.
Ventura, California ventu^ Mission
The
Bard
Hospital
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A healthy coast town, supported by a very large productive farming and fruit growing valley. It
has a smooth, compact sand beach with no sudden drops into deep places, with a low range of mountains
at its back. Long drives over well made roads. It has excellent drainage and sewerage, electric lights,
natural gas, an abundance of good water. Ideal climatic conditions, never hot, never cold. The most
sheltered spot on the coast, where the business man finds rest, comfort, pleasure and recreation. There
is a strong Board of Trade and Merchants Association.
First National Bank of Ventura.
Ventura Water, Light & Power Co.
J. K. Armsby & Co., Commission Merchants.
People's Lumber Co.
A. L. Chaffee, Dry Goods & Clothing.
John H. Reppy, Real Estate & Insurance.
Hobson Bros., Stock Dealers & Butchers.
Duval & De Troy, Hardware and Plumbing.
Jones & Son, Druggists.
Wm. H. Cannon & Co., Real Estate and In-
surance.
L. Cerf & Co., Wholesale Liquor Dealers.
F. T. Stiles, Retail Liquor Dealer.
It'll ft
SANTA
PAULA
V^tSH^. - ' i s^Jf"~*^L f
IN SANTA CLARA
VALLEY OF THE
SOUTH
's«**g/- A y
AN ORANGE GROVE IN JANUARY
We Raise Everything
small ranches for sale. Good vacant lots, resid
A good opening for several lines of business. *\
come and grow with us. For information wri
firms.
C. H. McKevett, Banker. 1. P.
J. B. Titus, Insurance. L. V\
C. E. King, Furniture. The
Santa Paula Water Co. J. R.
People's Lumber Co. Sant
For proof we invite you to come
and see for yourself. Large and
ence and business property for sale.
Me are growing. You are invited to
te any of the following well-known
Browne, Grocer.
f. Corbett, Furniture.
Cash Dry Goods Co., Clothing, Shoes.
Cauch, Drugs and Stationery,
a Paula Co-operative Association.
Albuquerque
NEW MEXICO
A City of Realities
•
^= E7
^m
i
m& -f
ALBUQUERQUF. WOOL SCOURING MILLS
You who are looking for a new location in the Southwest give a few moments' time to
the following facts and realities about NEW MEXICO'S greatest city:
ALBUQUERQ UE
Largest and most progressive city in New Mexico and Arizona. Population estimated at 20,000. Best
climate in the United States. Located on main line Santa Fe Pacific Ry. 525 miles south of Denver. 254
miles north of El Paso. 880 miles east of Los Angeles. County seat of Bernalillo County. Headquar-
ters U. S. District Court. U. S. Marshal's office located here. Monthly payroll exceeds $200,000.. Pay
roll and revenues approximate $2,500,000. Santa Fe Ry. has machine shops here. Albuquerque is an im-
portant distributing point. Agricultural possibilities of Bernalillo county are great. Alfalfa, hay, corn,
wheat, oats, sugar beets, etc. The culture of tobacco is being demonstrated with satisfaction. Acreage
in apples, peaches and other fruits is being extended each year. Wholesale trade covers a territory of 150
miles or more in all directions. Many elegant homes with attractive environments. Territorial fair held
here for the past twenty-four years, at an annual expense of $15,000. Wool Scouring Mills, handling over
4,500,000 pounds annually. Rio Grande Woolen Mills Co., manufacturers, annual output $180,000. Al-
buquerque Foundry and Machine Works, largest in the Southwest. Southwestern Brewerytand Ice Co.,
annual capacity 30,000 barrels. The Crystal Ice Co , ice plant capacity 30 tons daily. The American
Lumber Co.'s new saw mill and box factory. 5 public schools and High school, University of New Mex-
ico, the Hadley Climatological Labratory, St. Vincent Academy for girls, Immaculate Conception School
for boys. United States Indian school, Presbyterian Mission school, city park, 12 churches, 6 newspapers
(2 dailies), 3 National banks ($4,000,000 deposits); Montezuma Trust Co., capital and surplus $100,000;
3a secret and fraternal organizations. Commercial Club with 200 members; the Alvarado Hotel, the pride
of the city, cost more than $200,000; water works, 2 telephone systems, electric and gas plants, 3 miles
electric street car line, 3 planing mjlls; opera house recently built by the Elks' lodge at a cost of $75,000;
sanitarium, run by Sisters of Charity; hospital; 2 building and loan associations; public library and free
reading room, costing $20,000; flour mill, 3 lumber yards, 4 cigar factories. Further information of
great value to those seeking homes in the Southwest furnished free on application by addressing
Commercial Club, Albt-qaerque, New Mexico
1 irsi National Ilnnk
Bank of Commerce
State National Bank
Wnntcsuma I m-.t Co.
MornlnK Journal
Bio tirandr Woolen Mill* (Co-operative)
\ Miii<|ii)Ti|ii<' Wool <•.(<■. iiriim MIIIm
.1. Korln-r A • o.. < iirriiiK)-*. 11 ml HnrncMM
M.-t.-alf A Strnuxn, It nil i:«tnte
Whitney Co., Wholesale and Betall Hard-
w oof ton A Myer, Beal Estate vrare
Albert Faber, Furniture
J. C. Bnldri<lKi'. Lumber anil Palnta
Albuquerque Gai, Electric Light & Power
American Lumber Co. Co.
Albuquerque Foundry A Machine Works
Albuquerque Traction Co.
<.. I.. Brook*
Braeari ■•yen A Co., Betall Liquor*
I nivcrnlty H<iuliiH Improvement Co.
O. W. Strong;'* Son*, Furniture and Under-
Cryatal Ice Co. taking;
John J*. Heaven, Coal and Wood
A. E. Walker, Benl Entate
Ma*ysville
CAPITAL OF YUBA COUNTY
CALIFORNIA
THE GARDEN SPOT AND CITY
OF THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY
Orange, Lemon, Lime, Olive, Peach, Apricot, Pear, Berry and Alfalfa
Lands in tracts to suit. Abundance of water for irrigation where needed.
FINE CLIMATE
Prices $25 to $100 per Acre,
For particulars write MARYSVILLE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, or any of the
following well known firms:
Marysville Woolen Mill.
J. R. Garrett Co., Wholesale Grocers.
Yuba Consolidated Gold Fields, Dredging.
Valley Meat Co.
Decker, Jewett & Co., Bank
Hampton Hardware Co.
Sperry Flour Co.
C. T. Aaron, Real Estate.
E. A. Forbes, Attorney.
The Rideout Bank.
M. J. Newkorr,, Real Estate.
DO YOU
Want a home
Sunshine
Fruit
Grain?
I have land in both
Yuba and Sutter Counties
Oranges, Lemons, Limes, Peaches!
Apricots, Pears, Berries — all grow here.
Alfalfa grows many crops each year.
Land in tracts to suit from
$25 TO $J00 PER ACRE
Write me at once, stating what you want. I will take great interest in finding property to suit you
Descriptive matter free. Address
M. J. NEWKOM, MARYSVILLE, CALIFORNIA
P^Paloma TpiletS^ap
AT A 1,1.
DRUG 3TOIR
ANYVO THEATRICAL COLD CREAM
prevents early wrinkles. It is not a freckle coating- ; it re-
moves them. ANYVO CO., 427 North Main St., Los Angeles
Help — All kinds. Set Hummel Bros. & Co., 116-118 E. Second St. Tel. Main 509.
EUREKA, CALIFORNIA,
Has regular and quick water communication with San Francisco, with freight
rates ranging from $1.00 to $4.00 per ton, the cost of living and prices of merchandise,
clothing, manufactures, and general supplies are governed by those those of the
latter place, and vary but little therefrom.
Humboldt County Has:
Great extent, affording choice of location. Cheap lands in abundance. Its own
lumber, fuel, food, wool, leather. Equable temperature, insuring bodily comfort.
Healthfulness, especially absence of fevers and malaria. Diversity of products, giv-
ing variety in occupations. Abundant rainfall, guaranteeing crops and water. Great
natural resources in divers branches. Cheap lumber, making improvements inex-
pensive. Cheap fuel, costing little more than the labor of taking it. Good schools
within reach of every home. Good county government, honestly administered. Cheap
freight rates by sea to all Pacific points. The largest and best body of redwood on
earth. An honest, peaceful, law-abiding population
Humboldt Has Not:
Chinese, to compete with American labor. Irrigation, with its expense and liti-
gation. Spanish grants, to cloud titles and bar settlement. Railroad land grants,
to interfere with progress. Codling moths to destroy the apples. Colorado beetles
to destroy the potatoes. Summer thunderstorms to interfere with harvests. Long
winters when stock must be fed. Severe frosts to destroy vegetation. Crop failures
from any cause whatever. Cyclones, blizzards, tramps or strikes.
For further information address any of the following well known firms:
H. L. Ricka.
G. R. Georgeson, Real Estate.
Belcher A. Crane Co., Abstracts.
Humboldt County Bank.
Daly Bros., Dry Goods.
Oelaney <t Young, Wholesale Liquors.
A. A. Newcomb, Real Estate.
I. M. Long, Real Estate.
Cooper &. Rager, Real Estate.
8. I. Allard, Real Estate.
Thos. H. Perry, Real Estate.
Eureka Lighting Co.
Santa Rosa, California
STRUET SCENE IN SANTA ROSA
^anf a DnCP tiae ^ Banks 2 Excellent Hotels i Flour Mill I Brewery
.3d I lid I\.U5d lld> 4 Fruit Canneries I Woolen Mill Fruit Drying Factories
2 Tanneries
2 Lumber Yards
Street Cars
Municipal water works, with free water, free rural delivery and is situated in the
heart of Stock Growing, Grain Farming, Hop Raising, Fruit Growing, of Sonoma
County
Excellent Public and Private Schools, Churches and Lodges. Excellent
climate year round. Population io,ooo. 52 miles from San Francisco; 5 trains
daily to and from city. Gas and electric light. Telephones. Plenty of good
land for sale cheap. For further information address any of the following:
The Sonoma County Abstract Bureau.
Santa Rosa Bank.
Ocidental Hotel Co.
Santa Rosa National Bank.
Sonoma Valley Lumber Co.
Houts, Jewell & Peterson, Real Estate.
Eardley & Barnett, Real Estate.
W. D. Reynolds, Real Estate.
F. Berka, Lumber.
Lee Bros. & Co., Draymen.
COME TO COLUSA AND FIND
Some of California's real wealth, rich soil.
Easy and cheap irrigation. Price from $35 to $75
an acre.
Citrus and deciduous fruits on same acre.
A climate of Italian softness. Railroad and river
transportation.
A great Ranch newly subdivided. Easy access to the
markets. Fine schools. Good churches.
A healthful home. Beautiful surroundings.
For further information address any of the following
well known firms:
J. B. DeJarnatt & Son, Real Estate.
John C. Mogk, Real Estate.
Colusa Milling Co.
Farmers & Merchants Bank.
Colusa & Lake R. R. Co.
Geo. G. Brooks, Stationery.
Colusa County Bank.
Grenfell Lumber Co.
G. W. Allgaier, Groceries and Provisions.
BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB
COLT ON
The Hub City of Southern California
The Center of the Orange Belt,
Colton High School.
COLTON Schools serve as an index to the prosperity of the city. The rapidly in-
creasing population has made more schools a necessity and two handsome new
grammar schools are now under construction at a cost of $18,000. This will
make four grammar schools and one fully accredited High School in the city
of Colton.
Colton is unexcelled as a shipping and manufacturing center. It is 56 miles east of
Los Angeles on the main line of three transcontinental railroads. Population 4,000.
Growing! Growing! Come and grow with us.
For up-to-date literature describing Colton, or for any further information address.
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, or any of the following firms:
Colton Grain and Milling Co.
William Anderson.
The First National Bank of Colton.
Earl F. Van Luven.
Colton Fruit Exchange.
Wilcox- Rose Mercantile Co.
O. L. Emery, Hardware.
M. A. Hebberd Co.
California Portland Cement Co.
Colton Marble Company.
H. E. Fouch &. Co.. Real Estate.
J. B. Hanna, Real Estate and Insurance.
M. O. Hert, Real Estate.
H. G. Vogel, City Meat Market.
California Citrus Union.
Colton People's Store.
C. B. Hamilton & Co., Grocers.
G. B. Caster, Contractor and Builder.
P. H. Reed, Lumber and Mill Work.
Dr. J. A. Champion.
M. A. Fox.
H. G. French & Co., General Merchandise.
W. H. Ham.
N. J. Davenport & Co., Electrical Supplies.
Colton Pharmacy.
ORANGE
GEOGRAPHICAL CENTER OF
ORANGE COUNTY, CAL.
Is the business center and shipping point for about thirty square miles of
highly productive and densely populated territory. The surplus products
sent out from this point last year were: 718 cars of oranges, 68 cars of
lemons, ij cars of dried apricots, 5 cars of English walnuts and nearly
z,ooo,ooo pounds of unclassified products in less than carload lots, with-
out including shipments by express. Tne orchards and packing houses
furnish employment for many people.
The CITY OF ORANGE covers about three square miles and has a
population of at least 2003. It is headquarters for the Santa Ana Valley
IrrigUion Company and contains the fine building of the Orange Union
High School District. Over 100 buildings were erected in the city last
yea'', one firm furnishing lumber for 75 houses; and the growth continues,
$17,550 wo th of building permits being issued in the month of May.
Located 14 miles from the coast at an elevation of about 200 feet above
sea level, Orange escapes the chilling fogs of the lowlands and the ex-
tremes of heat and cold of the interior valleys. With its natural advan-
tages of abundant water, fertile soil and an equable climate, together
with its educational, religious and social advantages, this city is crr-
ORANGE CITY WATER WORKS tainly an ideal place for a home.
Come and see for yourself or write any of the following for further information:
Wm. H. Burnham. The Bank of Orange. K. E. Watson, Druggist.
Hallman & Field, General Merchandise.
S. M. Craddick, Real Estate.
Edwards & Meehan, Butchers.
Alnsworth Lumber Co.
Ehleen 4. Grote, General Merchandise.
D. C. Plxley, Hardware.
Ira Chandler, Furniture.
Adolph Dlttmer, Druggist.
Thompson Nurseries.
J. A. Huhn Co., Real Estate.
W. B. Park. Shoe Store.
C. B. Bradshaw, Architect.
Los Gat os, California
The Gem City
of the Foothills
Santa Cruz
Mountains
SANTA CLARA
COUNTY
Library Building
A most progressive community, having good schools, churches and business houses. An unequaled
summer and winter resort for health and pleasure. Good hotels and boarding houses. Foothill fruit
excels any other in quality. For further information address any of the following well known firms:
Johns & McMurtry, Real Estate.
E. E. Place, Furniture and Undertaking.
Hotel Lyndon. Bank of Los Gatos.
Crosby & Leask, Dry Goods.
O. Lewis & Son, Hardware.
A. C. Covert, Real Estate, east end of bridge.
Santa Ctut f Califomia
The Ideal Homesite of the Coast
Rose Tree in the Garden of a Santa Crnz Home
ROSfc.S, Callas, Geraniums and Heliotrope thrive the year round
in the open air. The thermometer averages 50 degrees in winter,
and rarely reaches 90 degrees in summer, bmjoy fishing the
streams and bay; drive around the cliffs and to the big trees; visit the
splendid beach of fine white sand; swim in the surf; take a dip in
the plunge.
Make Your Home Amidst Natural Attractions
Write for information to:
Robinson A. Co., Real Estate.
Field &. Cole, Curio Store.
Col. A. G. Abbott, Livery.
F. H. Parker, Real Estate.
Union Traction Co.
Samuel Leask, Dry Goods.
E. Jeffreys A. Sons, Furniture.
Williamson A. Garrett, Grocers.
H. B. Towne, Real Estate.
Dutcher A. Walker, Real Estate.
Martin A. Gardner, Abstracts and Attorneys.
Seidllnger Transfer Co. Baggage and Express.
Santa Cruz Beach Cottage and Tent City.
Pacific Realty Co., Real Estate.
People's Bank.
Daniels' Santa Cruz Transfer Co.
City Bank.
J. O. Home, 88 Front St.
The Bank of Santa Cruz County.
Whitney Bros., Hardware.
WOODLAND
The
Capital of
Yolo County
California
WOODLAND is only 86 miles from San Francisco and
22 miles from Sacramento, the State Capital. WOOD-
LAND has: twelve churches, three two-story grammar
school buildings, one commodious high school one
Holy Rosary Academy, one well-equipped business col-
lege, the best talent obtainable for the schools, one
. _ Carnegie library building, and fine free library, four
social and literary clubs, twen.ty fraternal and benefit lodges, one 200-barrel flour mill, one fruit can-
nery, two butter creameries, one fruit and packing establishment, one winery, one olive oil and pickling
plant, two large lumber yards, four solid banks, four hotels, one large city hall, one well-equipped fire
department, four large grain and hay warehouses, a well-conducted telephone system, an average rainfall
of 17 inches, and many commodious business houses representing all lines of trade.
For further particulars address any of the following:
Bidwell & Reith, Real Estate. Bank of Yolo. Yolo County Savings Bank.
Woodland Grain and Milling Co.
Bank of Woodland.
Woodland Gas and Electric Co.
Griggs & Bush, Dry Goods. West Valley Lumber Co
SUNNYVALE
Santa Clara County
ON main line 01 the Southern Pacific Railroad. Midway
between San Jose and Palo Alto, situate on the old Murphy
Ranch. Richest lands in the world in 5 and 10-acre tracts.
Sunnyvale is growing faster than any town on the Coast Division.
It is the home of the Jubilee Incubator Co., the Goldy Machine
Works, Sunnyvale Green Fruit Co., Sunnyvale Fruit Butter Co.
Beautiful live oak trees. 93 feet elevation. Residence lots from
$50 up. Write for maps and catalogues.
Sunnyvale Land Company
Sunnyvale, Santa Clara County - - California
STOCKTON
CALIFORNIA
STOCKTON, CALIFORNIA, LOOKING TOWARD THE HARBOR
The metropolis of, and gateway to the great San Joaquin Valley, is rapidly
becoming the leading industrial center of the Pacific Coast.
Send us four cents in postage and we will mail you a beautifully illus-
trated 80 page magazine telling all about fruit growing, dairying and
farming in Central California.
Address, Board of Trade, Stockton, California, or any of the following
well-known firms:
Eaton A. Buckley, Real Estate.
R. E. Wilholt & Sons, Real Estate.
H. E. Williamson, Real Estate.
Gardner Lumber Co., Lumber.
J. M. McCarty. Real Estate.
George -E. Crane. Real Estate.
Frankenhelmer Bros., Grain.
Boggs, Meyer & Spurr, Real Estate and In-
surance.
Rhoads &. Dudley, Real Estate.
S. V. Ryland, Farm and Mining Lands.
Grunsky, Dietrich <£. Leistner, Real Estate.
The San Joaquin Valley Land Co., Real Es-
tate.
EL COLONIA, BIGGS
BIGGS
BUTTE COUNTY
CALIFORNIA
The home of the orange, the
peach, the pear and the nuts.
Butte county oranges are mar-
keted in the East six weeks
before the Southern California oranges. Here are located the celebrated Rio Bonito
orchards.
Five crops of alfalfa are grown on the river bottoms each year without irrigation
and there are 15,000 acres of upland now under irrigation by the Butte County Canal.
The new Northern California Electric Railway, with 24 miles now completed, is pur-
chasing rights of way east of Biggs, and will run through this section.
The school facilities are the best, and the hotel accommodations are unsurpassed
in the State.
Land can be purchased for from $45 to $125 per acre.
For further particulars address
Board of Trade, Biggs, California, or
C. N. Brown, Ruggles & Harper, G. K. Smith, Sacramento Valley Bank, E. Steadman,
J. M. Hastings & Co., Chatfield & Smith, T. H. Fitch. W. A. Walker.
DON'T OVERLOOK
Ukiah
CAPITAL OF MENDOCINO COUNTY
CALIFORNIA
The Best and Fastest Grow-
ing City in Northern Cal.
Ukiah is situated in the cen-
ter of a beautiful valley
surrounded by mountains,
through which flows the
Russian River. The land
along the river is very rich,
and a large acreage is in
hop-5 and alfalfa. The bench
land lying between the riv-
er bottom and the moun-
tains is particularly well
suited to vineyards, and
many acres are now planted to grapes. Land can still be bought in this valley at
reasonable prices, and it offers many advantages to the homeseeker. Good climate
and water. No fogs or malaria. For further information address the following:
Address Secretary, Board of Trade or any of the following names
Poage & Woodward, Real Estate. Frank Sandelin, Palace Hotel.
Jamison Bros., General Merchandise. C. Hofman, General Merchandise.
L. B. Frasier, Real Estate. J. M. Owen, Real Estate. ,
Mendocino County Abstract Bureau. Geo. W. Geacy, Fashion Stables.
C. P. Smith.
It Is Well Known
That the proper place for a Vacation is in Marin,
Sonoma, Mendocino or Lake Counties,
reached hv the
California Northwestern \{y.
and tHe
North Shore Railroad
You can stop at some mineral spring resort or private home in one of the pretty
towns, rusticate on a farm or camp by some stream.
Call or write for
"Vacation 19Q6"
which will give detailed information showing terms for board — $J.co per week and
upwards.
Ticket Office and General Office in Ferrv Building, foot of Market Street, San
Francisco, California.
JAMES ACLER,
General Manager
R. X. RYAN,
Gen. Pass. <Sb Frt. Agent
THE OLDEST CUSTOM HOUSE IN CALIFORNIA
MONTERExCapitScalifomia
Strictly in a Class by Itself
Home of the Famous
DEL MONTE HOTEL
Climatically
the most even temperature. A pic-
turesque city by the sea, where
home life is made delightful by every reason of
good climate, good citizenship, fine sea bathing, fish-
ing, etc. For further information write any of fol-
lowing :
Geo. B. Underwood
First Nat'l Bank of Monterey.
H. K. O'Bryan.
Frank Hellam.
Frank L. Ordway.
C. L. Ingels.
OF FIVE ACRES
AND UPWARDS
in the Counties of
Fresno and Merced
California
MILLER AND LUX
Los Banos, Merced County
California
REDONDO BY THE SEA
Queen of the Pacific — E-i^Hteen Miles from Los Angeles
REDONDO HOTEL
COOL IN SUMMER — WARM IN WINTER
You can bathe in the surf where there is abso-
lutely no undertow. Take a swim or a Hot Salt
Tub Bath in one of the largest and best appointed
Natatoriums on the Southern Coast. Fish from
your choice of three wharves, in a locality that is
noted for its fishing, or troll from pleasure launches.
Visit the immense Carnation Fields for which
Redondo is famous. Collect Moonstones, Opals,
Aqua marines and other valuable and beautiful
stones from Pebble Beach. Dine at one of the
finest and best appointed Hotels on the coast, or
enjoy a delicious fish dinner on the beach.
For further information address
REDONDO IMPROVEMENT COMPANY
REDONDO HOTEL, John S. Woollacott, Mgr.
C. W. GRASSEL, Leading Grocer O. C. HINMAN, Real Estate
The Country Jtlong the
Line of
The
Kansas City
Southern Railway
Which T -"erses
Missouri, Arkansas, ndian Territory
Louisana and Texas
is the land of the big red apple, and the finest
peaches and berries, plums, pears, grapes and
cherries. Grown on the cheapest lands found any-
where in the United States. A good cotton, corn,
grain and live stock country, affording splendid
business opportunities in a hundred towns and
cities.
This railway, for its length, has more undevel-
oped resources than any other line in the world.
Write for printed information to
S. G. WARNER, Gen. Pass'r Agent
KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI
El Paso
Texas
Has a Population of
42,000
It is the commercial, mining, smelting, manu-
facturing, cattle-raising and railroad center of a
vast territory. It is the gateway to Mexico. The
U. S. Government will commence work this sum-
mer on a seven-million-dollar irrigating project on
the Rio Grande River, ioo miles above the City of
El Paso, which will irrigate 225,000 acres in this
valley.
There is big; money to be made in
valley lands and city realty
We are sole agents for the most desirable
properties
Write us for information.
All railroads allow stop-overs in El Paso.
Austin (EL Marr
200 Texas Street, El Paso, Texas
Reference: 1st National Bank, El Paso, Texas
Tbe Great
Central Railway System
of America, the
NEWYORK
[(entralJ
V LINES J
Operate more than 12,000 miles of rail-
ways east of Chicago, St. Louis and
Cincinnati.
Comprising the
New York Central & Hudson River
Lake Shore & Michigan Southern
Big Four Route
Michigan Central
Boston & Albany
Pittsburg & Lake Erie
Lake Erie & Western
Indiana. Illinois & Iowa
Lake Erie, Alliance and Wheeling
New York and Ottawa, and
Rutland Railroads
c F. DALY
PtMengvr Traffic Mgr.
York
W. J. LYNCH
I'afxengerTraflit M^r.
Chicago
SIGHTSEERS, LOOK!
You havn't seen the beauties of the
Pacific Coast until you visit
ENSENADA (Lower Cal.) MEXICO
Take the beautiful Steamer ST. Dk.nis
from San Diego and you'll be well repaid
Time Card of Steamer St. Denia
LEAVE HAN DIEGO
ft, 5. 8, 16, 19 and
27th of each month.
at 9 p. m.. arriving
next morning at Kn-
Hcnarfa
LEAVE ENSENADA
3. 6. 14. 17. 25 and
28th of each month at
8 p- m arriving n< \t
morninir at San DiflgO
ROUND TRIP
From
San Francisco
Los A.ng£eles
and
Portland
To Chicago and Milwaukee August 7th,
8th and 9th, and Sept. 8th and 10th. Re-
turn limit October 31st ....
To Duluth August 7th, 8th and 9th, and
September 8th and 10th. Return limit
October 31st
To St. Paul and Minneapolis August 7th,
Mh and 9th, and Sept. 8th and icth. Re-
turn limit October 31st . .
To Chicago August 7th, 8th and 9th, and
September 8th and 10th. Return limit
October 31st
$72.50
$72.50
$70.00
$71.50
CHOICE OF ROUTES
Tickets, sleeping car reservations and full information on application to
R. R. RITCHIE C. A. THURSTON R. V. HOLDER
Gen'l Agent Pacific Coast
Tempo 1 ary Offices, 435 14th St.
Oakland, Cal.
General Agent
247 South Spring Street
Los Angeles
General Agent
153 Third Street
Portland, Ore.
UNDOUBTEDLY
THEY
ARE
THE BEST
From Chicago, St. Louis or Cincin-
nati to New York or Boston, the ser-
vice offered by the New York Central
lines is certainly the best obtainable.
Frequent trains, with the finest Pull-
man equipment, dining cars, observa-
tion cars, and every modern luxury,
distinguish this system of lines.
See p. M. Byron
Southern California Passenger Agent
216 West 4th Street
Los Angeles, California
FRISCO
SYSTEM
Twin
Trains
To
Texas
The "Meteor" through to Fort Worth,
leaves St. Louis 2:30 p. m. daily.
The "Texas Limited" through to Dallas,
Houston, Galveston and San Antonio,
leaves St. Louis 8:21 p. m. daily.
Observation cars.
Fred Harvey Meals.
A. HILTON, G. P. A.
St. Louis, Mo.
GOULD SYSTEM
THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE RAILROAD
The Scenic Line of the World
THE TEXAS AND PACIFIC RAILWAY
THE MISSOURI PACIFIC RAILWAY
THE IRON MOUNTAIN ROUTE
INTERNATIONAL AND GREAT NORTHERN R. R.
The Most Interesting
Routes East
Grandest Scenery in the World.
Through Daily Standard and Tourist Sleeping Cars.
Courteous Attention. Excellent Dining Car Service
T. D. Connelly, General Agent, T. F. Fitzgerald
230 S. Spring St., Los Angeles Dist. Passenger Agent
JUjIZONM
Is the Place for You
The land of plenty where there is room for every-
body.
Now is the opportune time to invest, as no place
in the world has a better future. If you desire to
know more about the Great Salt River Valley,
where water is plentiful, or the mineral resources
of this rich but yet undeveloped country, write me
for descriptive literature.
When you travel —
TRAVEL "SJiNTE FE"
F. Jt. JOMES,
C. P. A., S. F. P. Sr P. Ry.,
Prescott, Jtrizona.
The ascent of Mount Lowe by trolley affords
the visitor to Los Angeles one of the most marvel-
ous and beautiful mountain railway journeys in the
world. And it is only one of the features of a
railway system covering 400 miles and reaching
all the points of interest in the garden spot of
America.
The Pacific Electric Railway
Depot at Corner of 6tK and Main
Los .Angeles
California
Nevada County Narrow Gauge R. R.
Chas. P. Loughridge, Gen. Manager.
Frank G. Beattv, Gen. Pass. & Tkt. Agt.
General Office, Grass'Valley, Cal
10
Fg't
8
M'xd
6
Pass
4
M'xd
2
Pass
8
Jan. 7, 1900
1
Pass
3
Pass
5
M'xd
p m
7
M'xd
9
Kg't
p m
p in
p m
a in
a 10
a in
a m
p m
p m
*J2 40
*7 35
*4 10
*10 50
*7 15
lv Colfax ar
7 00
10 27
3 40
6 55
12 00
1 18
8 11
4 37
11 21
7 42
8
Chicago Park
rt 32
10 00
3 09
6 20
11 25
1 51
8 44
4 55
11 45
8 00
13
Kress Summit
6 12
9 42
2 45
5 50
10 55
2 10
9 00
5 10
12 00
8 15
17
ar Grass Valley lv
5 57
9 27
2 30
f. 30
10 85
2 25
9 05
5 17
12 05
8 20
lv Grass Valley ar
5 52
9 22
2 25
5 17
10 25
2 40
9 20
30
12 20
8 33
20
. Town Talk Summit . .
5 38
9 08
2 12
5 05
10 13
2 50
9 30
5 40
12 30
8 43
22
ar Nevada lv
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9 00
*2 00
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p m
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* Daily
The Los
Angeles-
Pacific
Railroad
The Delightful Scenic Route to
SANTA MONICA
and Hollywood
Fine, Comfortable Observation Cars —
Free from Smoke
Cars leave Fourth street and Broadway, Los Angeles, for Santa Monica via Sixteenth
street, every 15 minutes from 6.35 a.m. to 9.35 p. m., then each hour till 11.35; or via
Bellevue Ave., for Colegrove and Sherman, every hour from 6.15 a.m. to ii.isp .m. Cars
leave Ocean Park, Santa Monica, for Los Angeles, at 5.45, 6.10, and 6.35 a.m. and every
half hour from 6.55 a.m. till 8.25 p.m., and at 9.25, 10.25, and 11.05 P-m.
Cars leave Los Angeles for Santa Monica via Hollywood and Sherman via Bellevue
Ave., every hour from 6.45 a.m. to 6.45 p.m., and to Hollywood and Sherman only every
hour thereafter to 11.45 p.m.
For complete time-table and particulars call at office of company.
Single Round Trip, 50c. 10-Trip Tickets, $2 00.
316-322 West Fourth Street, Los Angeles Trolley Parties by Day or Night a Specialty
Vacation Trips
Are now in order and cooling breezes invite
you to the seashore or mountains. Among
attractive trips are those from California
to
YELLOWSTONE PARK
going via Salt Lake City and returning same
way or via Portland and San Francisco.
From the east to
CALIFORNIA SEASHORE
resorts, Long Beach, Terminal Island, Cata-
lina, etc., etc. All delightful vacation places.
Excellent train service, scenic attractions,
reduced rates, etc., are inducements offered
by the
Salt Lake Route
35®;
aeres
Will afford you a most pleasant and enjoyable route to all
Grand scenery and unexcelled service are the features which
have made the Northern Pacific justly famous the world over
Carries both Standard and Tourist Sleeping Cars. If you are
going East try the Northern Pacific. Rates to all Direct
Points as low as by any line. Full information and
sleeping car accommodations furnished by
C. E. JOHNSON, Traveling' Pass. Ag't
125 West Third Street
Los Angeles, California
ROUTES
THROUGH TO THE
EAST
VIA
NEW ORLEANS
EL PASO
OGDEN
or
PORTLAND
Covering the Entiic Wtiiein Ccuntiy
LOW ROUND-TRIP TICKETS
August 7. 8, ard 9
THOS. A.GRAHAM
A**'! Gen'l Ft't & Pass. Ager.t
26 I South Spring Street
Lot Angeles. Cal.
Cf?
/O I CP
Two hours and fifteen minutes at Riverside for drives on
far-famed Victoria and Magnolia Avenues. Two hours and
twenty minutes at Redlands for drives to Smiley Heights and
over the McKinley Drive, where a view of the surrounding
country is had not excelled in Southern California.
Returning via Covina reaches Los Angeles early in the
evening.
Do not fail to take this the most beautiful trip in South-
ern California. Full information with Illustrated Booklet at
261 S. Spring St., Los Angeles.
THOS. A. GRAHAM, Asst. Gen. Fr't & Pass. Agt.
N. R Martin, Dist. Pass. Agt.
9
Special Train every morning from los Angeles
(connecting from pasadena) for
Plsiii
Grand Canyon of Arizona
Reached only via the Santa Fe
*&d^a«^^^
I- Hi- ••■••! - rifi'nAtiimiAi^**m~i*+ I i ii I i I i ii I iiTiii inn , i i ,■■■■H*i I f I II 1 in III' > k*
SB
(».
Throop Polytechnic Institute
m PasadenaWDalifornia -
Only Fully-Equipped Manual Trainingffcchool on Pacific Coast
INC LU DBS COLLH^OF E^m£E]|[NU| MA d
NOR^L SCHOSI OF^^mESTIC EC^OMYANIT^
MANVAL TBAIlflNG %
ACADEMY AND ELElttJOTAjlT SCHOOL^. WITH «
NING • %
• »
DEMY AND ELEMBEJWAK
^ • COMME^PR, SC
^^BOARDING HALL F
Send For Catalogue
SCHOOL
HALL FOR BOYS
ft
H
a
The
Peerless
Seasoning
As a seasoning for Fish,
Steaks, Chops, Game, Soups, etc.,
nothing can take the place of
Lea & Perrins'
Sauce
THE ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE
Beware of imitations. Look for Lea & Perrins' signature on label
and outside wrapper.
John Duncan's Sons, Agts., N. Y.
A MATTER OF HEALTH
•
tffliftl
Absolutely Pure
HAS MO SUBSTITUTE
See ihe Trade-mark
Baker's
(gcoa
*< and
(RocoMe
.ABSOLUTELY PURE
With 9 ttos^^riqioi^s flsuvqrP
made f»gjMc^ntific blending
of the best cocoa beans grown
in different parts of tr^gworld.
PLTER BAKER & CO. Ltd.
Established 1780 DORdflESTER, MASS.
-Aliforrii a
Preserves
THE ONLY FRUITS IN THE WORLD WITH $1,000
PURITY GUARANTEE ON EVERY JAR
BISHOP & COMPANY, LOS ANGELES
15 JAY STREET, NEW YORK
THE RELIABLE STORE
CALIFORNIA
SWEET WINES
Delivered FREE to Eastern Points
We ship, freight prepaid
to any railroad station
in the United States, two
cases fine old Peerless
XX Wines, assorted with
one bottle 1888 California
Brandy, for
$11.00
We ship, freight prepaid
to any railroad station
in the United States, two
cases finest old Peerless
Brand XXX assorted
Wines, with two bottles
1888 California Brandy
and one bottle California
Champagne for
$15.00
Southern California Wine Co.
218 West Fourth St., Los Angeles, Cal.
Home Exchange 16 - Main 332
VTIQf* PiAk*s
have been established over 50 years. By our system
o f pay men tse very family in moderate circumstance^
vii a VOSE piano. We take old instrument!
.change and deliver the new piano in your
r Cairiloirii,. Hand exnlanations.
AJGUST, 1906
Vol. XXV, No.
O
<<)|Orijrht 1906. by Out WYst MatM/iu. Company
CENTS
A COPY
LOS ANGELES
air NEW HIGH ST
SAN FRANCISCO
281 1 OCTAVIA ST
$2
A
YEA
THe Metropolitan Life
Insurance Company
Policies in this Company give no space to onerous conditions, unnecessary restrictions
or burdensome details; they offer nothing but what is good,
they ask nothing but what is right.
PACIFIC COAST HEAD OFFICE
925 GOLDEN GATE. AVE., SAN FRANCISCO
BRANCH OFFICES
LOS ANGELES (SOUTH), CAL. .Rooms 302-304 Pacific Electric Bldg Harry L. Corson, Supt.
LONG BEACH. CAL Rooms 6-7 Masonic Temple Bldg Clarence P. Kirn, Asst. Supt.
LOS ANGELES (NORTH), CAL. 414-418 Wilcox Bldg., cor Spring and 2d Sts. .Thomas Burke, Supt.
PASADENA, CAL Room 1, Richardson Bldg Chas. A. Deegan, Asst. Supt.
RIVERSIDE, CAL Evans Block, cor. Main and 8th Sts Harry J. Miller, Supt.
POMONA, CAL Brady Block, 2d St. and Gerry av., Amos N. Molyneaux. Asst. Supt.
REDLANDS, CAL Fisher Block Charles E. Lane, Asst. Supt.
SAN BERNARDINO, CAL Rooms 1-2-3 Garner Block Jos. Krausman, Asst Supt.
SANTA ANA, CAL Room 10, Hervey Finley Block T. H. Thurlow, Asst. Supt.''
SAN DIEGO, CAL Room 14, Sefton Bldg., C St. John K. Smith, Asst. Supt. in Charge
SANTA BARBARA, CAL 2d Floor Aiken Block, 905 State St Joseph A. Burns, Supt.
Lea & Perrins'
Sauce
The Original
Worcestershire
For Seventy Years the Favorite
Sauce, throughout the world,
for Soups, Fish and Gravies.
Beware of Imitations!
JOHN DUNCAN'S SONS, Agents, Hew York.
$1,500 A YEAR
for Life
have just issued
new book on
the " Money Mak-
ing Opportunities of
Mexico." We w»nt
to send you this
book free, for it
contains valuable
information on
the profit to be
derived from the
cultivation of rubber
trees. This book con-
tains full and complete
information, showing con-
clusive facts, logical fig-
ures and definite refer-
ence of good character,
proving beyond any
doubt that our rubber
and cocoanut plantations
are bona fide, certain and
very profitable.
This book gives rea-
sons, and if you wish
to save for old age, or
provide for healthy mid-
dle age, you can not find
a more conservative or a
more reasonable invest-
ment than we have to offer you now — more
profitable than life insurance — safe as city real
estate, yet not so costly — better than a savings
bank, for the returns are much greater.
If you can spend from $5 a month up-
wards, this is an opportunity to make a sound
investment that will return you $300 a share
each year for life — a sufficient sum to provide
for your old age and to protect you against
the ravages of time, the chances of poverty,
and the misfortune of ill health.
It is worth your time to ask for our booklet —
do this today in justice to your future. It is
the person who earns, saves and invests wisely
that reaps the reward of foresight and sagacity.
The demand for rubber can never be supplied —
the price of rubber is going higher and higher —
a rubber plantation is more profitable and less
expensive than a gold mine. Our booklets tell
you facts that it has taken years to accumulate
— write for them today.
This company is divided into only 6,000
shares, each one representing an undivided
interest equivalent to more than an acre in our
Rubber and Cocoanut Plantations. Our new
book will prove to you that five shares in this
investment paid for at the rate of $25 a month,
will bring a fair rate on your money during the
development period of seven years, and an an-
nual income of $1,500 for life. This investment
insures absolutely the safety of your future.
The person who holds shares in a rubber planta-
tion in tropical Mexico need have no care nor
anxiety for after years — you are safe — absolute-
ly and certainly. Our booklets will prove these
•tatements- write for them today.
Conservative Rubber Pro-
duction Company
614 Monadnock Building, San Francisco, Cal.
Dr. O. V. SESSIONS, Gen'l Agt.
502 Bryson Block, Los Angeles, Cal.
@
That the structural
strength of the Cadillac
is much greater than
ordinary service requires
is shown in the fact that
this machine was the only
one found to stand the
strain of " Leaping the
Gap," as pictured above.
Either the axles or frame
of all other machines tried
bent under the heavy
impact. With
the
Runabout
shown (a regular stock
car) the performer is making
repeated trips without the slightest
damage to his machine.
While this proves nothing to the
person who wants an automobile to
meet ordinary conditions of road
travel, it does show that the strength
of the Cadillac is never found want-
ing, no matter what the test.
This and the many other sterling
qualities of the Cadillac will be
cheerfully demonstrated by your
nearest dealer, whose address we
will send upon request. Let us also
send our illustrated Booklet Y
Model K. 10 h. p. Runabout (shown above).
Model M. Light Touring Car.
Model H. 30 h. p. Touring Car.
Lamps not Included.
Cadniac Motor Car Co.,
Detroit, Mich.
Member A. L. A. M.
OUT WEST
A Magazine of tine Old Pacific and the New
CHAS. F. LUMMIS \ ,
CHARLES AMADON MOODY \ ^ dltors
SHARLOT M. HALL, Associate Editor
Among the Stockholders and Contributors are:
DAVID STARR JORDAN
President of Stanford University
FREDERICK STARR
Chicago University
THEODORE H. HITTELL
The Historian of California
MARY HALLOCK FOOTE
Author of "The Led-Horse Claim," etc.
MARGARET COLLIER GRAHAM
Author of "Stories of the Foothills"
GRACE ELLERY CHANNING
Author of "The Sister of a Saint," etc.
ELLA HIGGINSON
Author of "A Forest Orchid," etc.
CHARLES WARREN STODDARD
The Poet of the South Seas
INA COOLBRITH
Author of "Songs from the Golden Gate," etc.
EDWIN MARKHAM
Author of "The Man with the Hoe"
JOAQUIN MILLER
The Poet of the Sierras
BATTERMAN LINDSAY
CHARLES FREDERICK HOLDER
Author of "The Life of Agassiz," etc.
CHAS. DWIGHT WILLARD
CONSTANCE GODDARD DU BOIS
Author of "The Shield of the Fleur de Lis"
WILLIAM E. SMYTHE
Author of "The Conquest of Arid America," etc,
DR. WASHINGTON MATTHEWS
Ex-Prest. American Folk-Lore Society
WILLIAM KEITH
The Greatest Western Paintet
CHARLES A. KEELER
LOUISE M. KEELER
GEO. PARKER WINSHIP
The Historian of Coronado's Marches
FREDERICK WEBB HODGE
of the Smithsonian Institution, Washing-toe
GEO. HAMLIN FITCH
Literary Editor S. F. Chroniclt
ALEX. F. HARMER
CHARLOTTE PERKINS STETSON GILMAN
Author of "In This Our World"
CHAS. HOWARD SHINN
Author of "The Story of the Mine," etc
T. S. VAN DYKE
Author of "Rod and Gun in California," etc.
MARY AUSTIN
Author of "The Land of Little Rain"
L. MAYNARD DIXON
ELIZABETH AND JOSEPH GRINNELL
Authors of "Our Feathered Friends'*
Contents — A.\ig\ist, 1906
The Arriero (illustrated poem), by Courtenay De Kalb 105
The Conquest of the Desert, illustrated, by George Baker Anderson 109
Santa Fe Reading Rooms, illustrated, by S. E. Busser 1 25
An Archaeological Wedding Journey, illustrated, by Theresa Russell. Chap. VIII : The
Next Station 132
Kings River Canon, illustrated, by Thomas T. Waterman 139
A Benefactor of the State, by Wm. E. Smythe, with portrait of M. Theo. Kearney 146
Summer in the Mountains, by Virginia Garland .' 151
To the Mexican Immigrant (poem) , by Arthur B. Bennett 155
Hermit Hagan (story), by R. C. Pitzer 156
Orleans Indian Legends, by Melcena Burns Denny. II: The Legend of An-O-Hos 161
A Descendant of Noah ( story) , by Sophia D. Lane 166
Miguel of the Wood-Trail (story) by Gertrude B. Millard i/ 1
The First Mail-Route in California, illustrated, by W.J. Handy f 74
That Which Is Written (book comment), by Charles Amadon Moody 178
Santa Cruz (The Home City of the Pacific Coast), illustrated, by H. R. Judah, Jr .... [83
Copyright 19(W. Entered at the Los Angeles Postoffice as second-class matter (See Publishers' Page)
THE
QUALITY STORE
Matchless Men's Clothing
M. CSL B. Excellence in Style and Value
Properly tailored clothing made of proper materials will
stand the test of service and will prove itself worthy.
M. & B. Clothing is designed by the foremost experts of
the age and country and is brought to the pinnacle of perfec-
tion by the best talent obtainable, who confine their products
exclusively to us for this city, and with our unbounded faith
in the character of merchandise we handle we have a feeling
of perfect security that we offer "dependable values," which
is a guarantee of protection to our customers.
SUITS $18, $20, $22, and $25
Mullen &. Bluett Clothing Co.
Corner Spring and First Streets
CLEAN HANDS i° y r u e J»T one
AJLEY'S RUBBER
OJLET BRUSH
PAT, JUNE 4. 89.
nn
Price 25c. each. For sale by all dealers in Toilet
woods. Mailed on receipt of price. **" Agents -wanted.
Bailey's Rubber MASSAGE ROLLER
It Makes.
41
K Sample
Jar of Skin
food(,lVfS
with ever>
toiler.
For sale by all E?Ar»
dealers or mailrd riljlj
â– Don receipt of v
RUBBER BOOK
Baby's TeetK
cut without irritation
.t-eaded teeth <-f Bailey's
Teething Rhiq expand the trams,
•u forts
Sad imowi the ch Md. prevent-
Hhi CoaTalsion* and cholera infantum
Mailed for the price (stamp*), toe.
0. J. Bailey & Co., 22 Boylston St., Boston, Mass.
Buck
Skin
Shoes
Men's shoe in
pearl or tan buck-
skin, widths A A to E,
sizes 4 to 12. Price Sj-S°
The most desirable shoes for outing and
general wear. Light, cool, durable— made
on anatomical lasts, which allow the great-
est foot freedom. Styles for men, women
and children.
Send for our Buckskin Catalogue
WETHCRBY KAYSER SHOE (0.
217 S. Broadway, Los Angeles
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS
Occidental College L £,*Sr
The College. Four Courses — Classical, Scientific,
Literary, and Literary-Musical. Two new brick
buildings, costing $80,000- — modern and convenient.
Academy. Prepares for Occidental, or any other
college or university. The Occidental School of Mus-
ic — Theory, Vocal and Instrumental.
' First semester begins September iz, 1906.
Address JOHN WILLIS BAER, L. L. D., Pr*sldent
IMMACULATE HEART COLLEGE
A boarding and day school for young ladies,
conducted by the Sisters of the Immaculate
Heart.
For prospectus address
Mother Superior, Hollywood, Cal.
MANZANITA HALL Pa ^ or A1 BoV« Callf '
Life of mountain, valley, sea. "While a ma-
jority of its graduates enter Stanford, it has
had marked success in preparing- for Eastern
Universities and technical schools. Ideal
dormitory system. New cinder track this com-
ing year. Every branch under a master. A
growing school for growing boys. Send for
catalogue. 14th year opens August 22.
.) LeR. DIXON, Head Master.
Saint Vincent's College
Los Angeles, California
Boarding and Day College
and High School
Military Drill and Calisthenics a Feature.
For Catalogue write the President.
ACiA^I7 HAM A school for boys among the
rtVJAVJJU- UrtLL Sierra pines. Remarkable cli-
mate. Prepares for best Colleges and Universities.
Out-door Sports; Riding, Hunting, Boating, Fishing,
Snow-shoeing, Camping. Boys may enter at any
time. For catalogue, address the Headmaster.
WILLIAM W. PRICE, M. A., Alta, Placer Co., Cal.
Have you visited the
"Angel's Flight"
If not why not? It is the
most unique, interesting and
picturesque incline railway
in the world. It is in the
heart of the city — Hill and
Third Streets, Los Angeles,
Cal. J. W. EDDY, Mgr.
MAKE $10 A DAY
man and one machine can do this
with a
PETTYJOHN
Concrete Block Machine
An opportunity to the first to write us
from each locality to start a BIG PAY-
ING BUSINESS with a small capital.
If you are going to build a home you
should have it. Whole outfit costs only
$125.00. Sand, Water and Cement only
materials required. Oue man cau make
200 blocks daily. Machine sent on trial. Write for particulars.
THE PETTYJOHN COMPANY, 678 N. Sixth St., Terre Haute, Ind.
HE UP-TO-DATE MAN
Is now Figuring
on his fall
Catalogue Printing
We are especially well equipped for this class of work* Write us
for prices, or better yet, call in and let us show you samples and esti-
mate on your Catalogue.
PRINTERS OF
"OUT WEST"
THE WAYSIDE PRESS
2J4 Franklin St., Los Angeles
J.H.PACKARD
Banker
and
Broker
Ensenada, Lower California
Mexico
Information concerning
Mexico and Lower Cal-
ifornia cheerfully furn-
ished and business
entrusted in my hand
given my personal
attention
State of Sinaloa
ON WEST COAST OF MEXICO
Coast line Four Hundred (400) miles.
Large areas of agricultural, fruit and timber
lands.
Annual rainfall thirty (30) inches.
Short railroad lines in operation and trunk lines
projected with constructions begun, make
this a peculiarly desirable time to invest.
Desirable tracts of from 100 to 100,000 acres
for sale.
For full information about SINALOA, and its
resources, address
SINALOA LAND COMPANY
Suite 220-221 ' 2 Conservative Life Bldg.
Los Angeles, California
Exclusive Concessionaries for Survey of Public
Lands in State of Sinaloa, Mexico.
Directors and Stockholders:
Frederick H. Rindge Estate,
George I. Cochran, A. J. Wallace,
J. C. Drake, R. P. Probasco,
Geo. P. Thresher. Warren Gillelen,
Dan'l Freeman.
RUBBER
"They well deserve to have, that knoiv
the strongest and surest ivay toget."
For sure, large and permanent returns noth-
ing equals a well managed tropical plantation.
Our plantation, located in what is known as
the true Rubber Zone of Mexico, is under the
management of experienced men, who have
made a study of Mexican Agriculture.
It must be borne in mind that Rubber Culti-
vation is not a speculation, it is an agricultural
(tropical) investment which requires only fairly
good management to bring in a few years re-
turns that a Northern farmer would not credit
if told him.
When you inveit in RUBBER shares you are SURE
(a itrike Rubber. It is only a question whether the
final returns will yield 100 or joo pi-r cent on the invest-
ment. A limited number of shares have been placed
on sale at a price below that offered by any other enter-
prise of like character. For full information write to
tbe Secretary. Do It Sow
TWO-VCAR-OIO RUBBER TRCt ON PALENQUC PLANTATION
PALENQUE PLANTATION & COMMERCIAL CO.
Plantation, Department of Palenque, State of Chiapas, Mexico.
GEO. LEONARD, Sec'y
Temporary Office. 2100 Scott St., SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
Designated Depository of the United States
FIRST NATIONAL BANK
OF LOS ANGELES
Special Ladies' Department
Capital Stock $ 1.250,000.00
Surplus and Undivided Profits I,4."i6,023 98
Deposits 11.213 974.30
J. M. Elliott, President Stoddard Jess, Vice-President
W. C. Patterson, Vice-President
G. E. Bittinger, Vice-President
John S. Cravens, Vice-President
W. T. S. Hammond, Cashier
A. C. Way, Asst. Cashier E. S. Pauly, Asst. Cashier
E. W. Coe, Asst. Cashier A. B. Jones, Asst. Cashier
All departments of a modern banking business
conducted.
The
National Bank of California
at Los Angeles
Northeast Corner 2nd and Spring Streets
John M. C. Marble, Pres.
John E. Marble, Vice-Pres.
J. E. Fishburn, Cashier
F. J. Belcher, Jr., Asst. Cashier
Hon. O. T. Johnson W. D. Woolwine
Judge S. C. Hubbell R. I. Rogers
Directors
Solicits Business and Correspondence
The German Savings
and Loan Society
526 California St, San Francisco
Guaranteed Capilal and Surplus $ 2,552,719.61
Capital actually paid up in cash 1,000,000.00
Deposits, June 30, 19C6 38,476,520.22
F. Tillmann, Jr., President
Daniel Meyer, First Vice-President
Emil Rohte, Second Vice-President
A. H. R. Schmidt, Cashier
Wm. Herrmann, Asst. Cashier
George Tourny, Secretary.
A. H. Muller, Asst. Secretary
W. S. Goodfellow, General Attorney
Directors
F. Tillmann, J>r., Daniel Meyer, Emil
Rohte, Ign. Steinhart, I. N. Walter, N.
Ohlandt, J. W. Van Bergen, E. T. Kruse,
W. S. Goodfellow
RELIABLE REAL ESTATE DEALERS OF CALIFORNIA
Who will furnish Reliable Information regarding Califor nia Real Estate, Climate, Etc.
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA
Join Our
New Colony
We can locate 40 families on good
California Valley Land, each <tO per
family 160 acres for *r^ acre
Colonization Department
Golden State rVealty Co.
608-610 S. Spring St., Los Angeles, Cal.
SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA
Beautiful
Santa Cruz
NOW
Is the time to secure a home
in this favored spot.
Send for free sample copy of Santa Cruz Times
MERCED, CALIFORNIA
If You Want a Small or Large Trad: of CALIFORNIA LAND
that will produce anything. The center of California's greatest Fruit and Alfalfa and Dairy-
ing District, with Canneries and Creameries to care for same. Best irrigation system in
State. Moderate climate. Land from $20 an acre up in tracts from 5 acres up. Terms un-
equalled. For further information write
WALTER CASAD, MERCED, CAL.
Ask for LA PALOMA TOILET SOAP. At all Drug Stores
For Health
Happiness and a
Home Come to
Southern
California
Write for information and illustrated
printed matter, enclosing a 5-cent
stamp, to
THE
Chamber of Commerce
Los Angeles, Cal.
YOUR
BANK
We Desire to be Your Bank
You are cordially invit-
ed to make this your
bank. Every facility of
modern banking is at
your service. Our Trust
and Bond Departments
offer added conven-
iences. You will be made
to feel at home and your
business will receive
prompt, accurate and
cheerful attention.
Merchants Trust Company
CAPITAL, $350,000
209 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, Cal.
JOHN T.
GRIFFITH
COMPANY
Established 1892 Incorporated 1905
John T. Griffith, President
H. E. O'Brien, Vice-President
John N. Gardiner, Secretary
laata MwMca't l»| Wharl. Mar Palnado
Real Estate and Insurance
MAKING
A
SPECIALTY
OF
High Class Business and
Residential Property
CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED
Member of L. A. Realty Board
214-216 Wilcox Building, Los Angeles, Cal.
Send For Beauty Booklet
THE celebrated French
house of J. Simon has
since 1861 led the World in
the manufacture of toilet
articles. They have prepared
a dainty booklet on beauty
hints which will be sent free
on request.
Cpeme Simon
The famous skin preserver and beautrfier.
Poudre Simon the piwder for beauty or baby.
I'lvme Simon Soap softens, whitens and cleans.
Samp!es of this trinity of beauty-m.ikers will be sent free on
receipt of 8c. to pay postage and packing.
GEO. P. WAlLn'J, Inc., 2 Slone Street, New! York City
RIDDEL'S
OLIVE OIL
FIRST PRESSING
Guaranteed Absolutely Pure
Pressed and Bottled by
J. O. RIDDEL, REDLANDS, CAL.
1 GENT
IS ALL IT WILL COST YOU
to write for our big FREE BICYCLE catalogue
showing the most complete line of high-grade
BICYCLES, TIKES and SUNDRIES at PRICES
BELOW any other manufacturer or dealer in the world.
DO NOT BUY A BICYCLE S^-BBS
or on any kind of terms, until you have received our complete Free Cata-
logues illustrating and describing every kind of high-grade and low-grade
bicycles, old patterns and latest models, and learn ofour remarkable LOW
PRICES and wonderful new offers made possible by selling from factory
direct to rider with no middlemen's profits.
WE SHIP ON APPROVAL without a cent deposit, Pay the Freight and
allow 10 Days Free Trial and make other liberal terms which no other
house in the world will do. You will learn everything and get much valu-
able information bj' simply writing us a postal.
We need a Rider Agent in every town and can offer an opportunity
to make money to suitable young men who apply at once.
Regular Price $
$8.50 per pair. *
To introduce
Wo Will Sell
You a Sample
Paii* for Only
.50 PUNCTURE-PROOF TIRES P" kl
4
otice the thick rubber tread
"A" and puncture strips "B"
and "D," also rim strip "H"
to prevent rim cutting. This
tire will outlast any other
make— SOFT, ELASTIC and
EASY RIDING.
NAILS. TACKS
OR GLASS
WON'T LET
OUT THE AIR
(cash WITH ORDER $4.55)
NO MORE TROUBLE FROM PUNCTURES.
Result of 15 years experience in tire
making. No danger from THORNS. CAC
TUS. PINS. NAILS. TACKS or GLASS
Serious punctures, like intentional knife cuts, can
be vulcanized like any other tire.
Two Hundred Thousand pairs now in actual use. Over
Seventy-five Thousand pairs sold last year.
DESCRIPTION S Made in all sizes. It is lively and easy riding, very durable and lined inside
with a special quality of rubber, which never becomes porous and which closes up small punctures
without allowing the air to escape. We have hundreds of letters from satisfied customers stating
that their tires have only been pumped up once or twice in a whole season. They weigh no more than
an ordinary tire, the puncture resisting qualities being given by several layers of thin, specially
prepared fabric on the tread. That "Holding Back" sensation commonly felt when riding on asphalt
or soft roads is overcome by the patent "Basket Weave" tread which prevents all air from being
squeezed out between the tire and the road thus overcoming all suction. The regular price of these
tires is $8.50 per pair, but for advertising purposes we are making a special factory price to the rider
of only I4.80 per pair. All orders shipped same day letter is received! We ship C.O.D. on approval.
You do not pay a cent until you have examined and found them strictly as represented.
We will allow a cash discount of 5 per cent (thereby making the price 884.55 per pair) if you send
FULL CASH WITH ORDER and enclose this advertisement. We will also send one nickel
plated brass hand pump and two Sampson metal puncture closers on full paid orders (these metal
puncture closers to be used in case of intentional knife cuts or heavy gashes). Tires to be returned
at OUR expense if for any reason they are not satisfactory on examination.
We are perfectly reliable and money sent to us is as safe as in a bank. Ask your Postmaster.
Banker, Express or Freight Agent or the Editor of this paper about us. If you order a pair of
these tires, you will find that they will ride easier, run faster, wear better, last longer and look
finer than any tire you have ever used or seen at any price. We know that you will be so well pleased
that when you want a bicycle you will give us your order. We want you to send us a small trial
order at once, hence this remarkable tire offer.
g%f%M OTVO F9D A MfF^ built-up-wheels, saddles, pedals, parts and repairs, and
wU/IO I Clf'Dfl/lflCO; everything in the bicycle line are sold by us at half the usual
prices charged by dealers and repair men. Write for our big SUNDRY catalogue.
ntt Ainr WAIT but write us a P° stal today. DO NOT THINK OF BUYING a
U%J Pt\M I WW fit J bicycle or a pair of tires from anyone until you know the new and
wonderful offers we are making. It only costs a postal to learn everything. Write it NOW.
MEAD CYCLE COMPANY, Dent.'ML" CHICAGO, ILL.
v <&r^'
E STILL HAVE a few
sets of OUT. WEST
complete, except for
Numbers 1 and 2, Volume I.
Price for the 24 volumes, unbound
$28. 90
Prices for separate volumes given on application.
We can have them bound for you if you wish.
Speak quick if you are interested, as they will not last long.
How To Make Money
In Raising Chickens
A man who has learned
how by doing it has. written
a book telling all about it,
down to the smallest details.
He is now taking $1500 a
year from five acres devoted
to poultry — not raising fancy
chickens, but supplying poul-
try and eggs to the market.
No Reason Why You Shouldn't
do likewise, if you have the
"gumption." Needn't feel
troubled becau.se you haven't
the experience. The author
of this hook was a sea-cap-
tain till a few years ago, and
had to find out as he went
along. Hi- book will .save
you that trouble, or some of it.
Sent postpaid, on receipt of price, $1.25.
OUT WEST MAGAZINE CO.
LOS ANGELES
T make a specialty of
Southern California
Ranch Homes
Large or Small.
If you are coming to California and
desire a place ready to step in, where
you can make money from the start.
I can be of service to you.
A sample from my list:
9^ acres 5 blocks from P. O. 6-room
house, electric lights and telephone. 3C0 olive
and iik) aprlcoi tree*, and an assortment of
peaches, figs, quince, apple, prune, plum, pear,
etc. Over 5,000 berry plants, assorted varie-
ties. All live stock, implements, etc., includ-
ed. Price, $3,500.
WM. SALISBURY,
P. O. Box 625, Sta. C,
Los Angeles, Cal.
Correspondence Solicited.
All inquiries cheerfully answered
BY FAST LINE
FOR
SAN FRANCISCO
AND
SANTA BARBARA
EXPRESS
SERVICE
LOW RATES.
INCLUDING
BERTH
AND
MEALS.
LEAVE REDONDO
Santa Rosa Wednesdays, 7 a. m
State of California Sundays, 7 a. m.
LEAVE PORT LOS ANGELES
Santa Rosa Wednesdays, 11 a. m.
State of California Sundays, 1 1 a. m.
Due at San Francisco 1 p. m. following day.
Connecting at San Francisco with Company's Steamers for Eureka (Humboldt
Bay), Seattle, Tacoma, Victoria, Vancouver, and Ports in
Alaska and Mexico.
Right Reserved to Change Schedule.
LOS ANGELES TICKET OFFICE
328 South Spring Street
H. B. BRITTAN City Passenger and Ticket Agent
H. BRANDT District Passenger Agent
C. D. DUNANN Gen. Pass. Agt., San Francisco
MENNEN'S
Toilet jjfc Powder
Borated
Talcum
AT THE SEA SHORE
Mermen's will give immediate relief from
prli-kly heat, rhnfinir. -uii-l>urii and all
skin troubles. Ouralisolutely non-retillahle
box is for your protection. "For sale every-
where or by mail 25 cents. Sample free.
GERHARD MENNEN CO., Newark, N.J.
Tin Ml \ \ I \ -S VIOLET (Borated) TALCUM.
Mothers!
Mothers!!
Mothers!!!
Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup
has been used for over SIXTY YEARS
by MILLIONS of MOTHERS for their
CHILDREN while TEETHING with
PERFECT SUCCESS. It SOOTHES
the CHILD, SOFTENS the GUMS, AL-
LAYS all PAIN, CURES WIND
COLIC, and is the best remedy for
DIARRHOEA. Sold by all Druggists
in every part of the world. Be sure and
ask for "Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syr-
up," and take no other kind. Twenty-
five cents a bottle.
BEKINS VAN & STORAGE CO. s
household goods
Reduced Rates to and from All Points
243 South Broadway, Los Angeles
1 01 5 Broadway, Oakland
flf ftr*>C Room 5°°' 95 Washington St., Chicago
VjlllLCiJtg Montgomery St., San Francisco
f>% I FOR YOUR FARM,
I O^K* HOME, BUSINESS OR
t,/J\l 1 OTHER PROPERTY.
^"^ We can sell it for you, no
ggi^^l^^ matter where it is or what
it is worth. If you desire
a quick sale send us description and price.
If you want to buy any kind of property
anywhere send for our monthly. It is
FREE and contains a large list of desirable
properties in all parts of the country. C. A.
WILSON. Real Estate Dealer, 415 Kansas
avenue, Topeka, Kansas.
The American
Collection Agency
No fee charged un-
less collection is
made. We make col-
lections in all parts
of the United States.
413 KANSAS AVE.
TOPEKA, KANSAS
KIDDER'S PASTILLES, ^^fe.
â– â– â– â– â– â– â– ^^^^^^M or mall, S6 cents.
STOWELL ft CO., Mfrs. Cliarlestown, Maw.
3^ Face Powder. ***
It prevents nn<1 cuics snnlnirn, romrhm-ss and
oilier distressing* Affliction* ceased by t>i<-- wind And
lis peculiar perfume is extracted from flow.
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Rtfnu sul"tiiuit%. They limy l>c dangeroni
Flesh, White, I'ink, or Cream,. sot-, a box, of drugjriaU
or by mail. Stm* ioc. for tarn pit.
BLN. LFVV CO., French Perfumers
llrpl. 4 , 1]3 kl"K-l">. >*.. II, ..I.. 1,.
"VACATION
1906"
ISSUED
BY THE
California Northwestern Ry.
THE. PICTURESQUE ROUTE OF CALIFORNIA:
and North Shore Railroad
THE SCENIC ROUTE
Is Now l^cady for Distribution
GIVING FULL INFORMATION
IN REGARD TO
Camping Spots, the Location, Accommoda-
tions, Attractions, etc., of Mineral Spring
Resorts and Country Homes and Farms
where Summer Boarders are taken, with
terms of Board, $7.00 and upwards per week
To be had at Tiburon Ferry, foot of Market Street, San Francisco Inquiry
by mail will bring an immediate response
JAMES AGLER, R. X. RYAN,
General Manager General Passenger Agent
Our own brand of Olive Oil and our Medal-Win-
ning Wines are California's choicest products.
In Order to introduce ^^ ■• ^«w • «.
ou ".r A s o„ f Olive Oil
" doR ""Vintages
In their absolute purity, direct from our
store, we quote the following inside prices:
2 cases, each containing i dozen quart bottles (5
to the gallon) of our Best Assorted Wines,
Champagne excepted, including 1 bottle of Old
California Brandy, 24° bottles all told, for
Only $11.00
or a splendid assortment of Table Wines
at $8.50
for 2 cases, assortment to be made by us, or by
yourself — as you choose.
OLIVE OIL
Quart bottles $11 per case of 1 doz.
Pint bottles 12 " " 2 "
Half Pint bottles 13 " " 4 "
FREIGHT prepaid by us to your nearest rail-
road stavion, provided your aggregate order of
Wines and Olive Oil amounts to 100 pounds or
over. For your guidance in this matter, we give
the weight of 2 cases of wine — 100 lbs.; case 01
olive oil, about 30 lbs.
Edward Germain Wine Co.
P. O. 290 Los Angsles: Cal.
MAPLEINE
SYRUP
Is for particular people
who appreciate
Purity and Quality
MAPLEINE SYRUP
can be made in a min-
ute's notice by dissolv-
ing granulated sugar in
hot water and adding a
few drops of Mapleine.
SEND 35 CENTS
(Stamps) and purchase
enough for 2 gallons of
syrup. Your money
back if you are not sat-
isfied.
Manufactured under
requirements of the
Pure Food laws.
Crescent, Mfg. Co.
SEATTLE,
U. S. A.
DRINK
Maier & Zobclcin
BREWERY
LAGER-BEERS
1 he best and purest brewed on the
Coast. For sale in bottles
and kegs.
Tcltphonan Sunsvt, Main 91
Home *?!
ISN'T
Young- Ameri-
ca, pleading for
recognition, en-
titled to your
consideration?
Upon what his brain con-
ceives and his hands exe-
cute depends the future
greatness of your country.
m Ehmani\
OLIVE OIL
"Home Produtf"
that reflects credit on America. Made from
the finest Olives grown in an improved
American way— THE EHMANN EXCLU-
SIVE METHOD. For table or Medicine
you will not find its equal. ''It's American
Made."
Ludwig & Matthews, Agents
Los Angeles, Col.
EHMANN OLIVE CO.. Mfra., Oroville. Cal.
WINCHMTM
.32 and .35 Caliber
Model 1905 Self Loading Rifle
T
HIS rifle is a six shot hammerless take-down, made in .32 and
.35 calibers. It is the first rifle of the Self Loading type
made for center fire ammunition, the cartridges it handles
being of the modern smokeless powder type, using metal
patched bullets. The .32 caliber shoots a 165-grain bullet
and gives a velocity of 1400 foot seconds and a penetration
of 11 ^ inch dry pine boards with a metal patched soft
point bullet. The 35 caliber shoots a 180-grain bullet and gives a veloc-
ity of 1400 foot seconds and a penetration of 10 ^ boards with a metal
patched soft point bullet, at the standard testing distance of 15 feet
from the muzzle. As these figures show, both cartridges give excellent
penetration, and with metal patched soft point bullets they have great
shocking effect on animal tissue. As its name indicates, this rifle is self-
loading. The recoil of the exploded cartridge ejects the emptv shell,
cocks the hammer and feeds a fresh cartridge from the magazine into the
chamber, leaving the rifle ready to shoot upon the operator's pulling the
trigger. The operation of this rifle should not be confounded with that
of machine guns, which reload and fire to the extent of their magazine
capacity -without stopping after the trigger is first pulled. In using the
"Winchester Self-Loading Rifle, it is absolutely necessary to pull the
trigger for each shot, which places its operation as completely under the
control of the operator as that of any repeating rifle. The self-loading
system permits rapid shooting with great accuracy, and on account of
the ease and novelty of its operation adds much to the pleasure of rifle
shooting, either at target or game. The list price of the standard rifle of
this model is $28.00.
2 WINCHESTER
SELF LOADING p
OF-
35WINCHESTER
1 SELF 0SKPW1P
' SOFT POINT/
SOFT POINT OR FULL METAL SOFT POINT OR FULL METAL
PATCHED, LIST PRICE PER 1000 PATCHED, LIST PRICE PER 1000
$27.00 $27.50.
Send for illustrated catalogue, mailed free, to
Winchester Repealing Arms Co., San Francisco, California
LEADING HOTELS OF THE COAST
Below will be found, for the information of tourists who visit California, a list of the best hotels, both
tourist and commercial, in the leading Resorts and Cities of the State. A postal card of inquiry will
bring literature and information as to rates, by return mail.
APARTMENTS, Los Angeles
fully furnished, new, 3 rooms, gas, range,
hot water, bath, telephone, $14.00 monthly. T.
Wiesendanger, 511 Merchanis Trust Building.
LJOTEL VANCE, Eureka
American plan. Noted for excellent fur-
nishings and superior table service. J. F.
Dougherty, Manager.
£LARENDON, Los Angeles,
^* European plan, tourist and commercial
hotel. Central location, one block from Broad-
way. Special rates by the week.
LJOTEL VENDOME, San Jose
A charming summer and winter resort.
Headquarters for tourists visiting Lick Observa-
tory. Joseph T. Brooks, Manager.
LJOTEL WESTMINSTER,
^* LOS ANGELES. Largest and best. Euro- -
pean plan. $1 per day and upwards. Service the
best. Cor. Main and 4th Sts. F. O. Johnson,
Prop.
LJOTEL HOLLYWOOD, Hollywood
*â– â– * Cal. Only hotel in the beautiful Ca-
huenga foothills. Unique for home comforts com-
bined with every modern convenience of a first
class hotel.
LJOTEL REDONDO, Redondo, Cal.
* 18 miles from Los Angeles, at Redondo-
by the Sea. "The Queen of the Pacific." Open
all the year; even climate.
pASO ROBLES HOT SPRINGS
Hotel, Paso Robles, Cal. New bath house
most complete in the U. S. Hydropathic treat-
ment for all ills. Open year round. W. A.
Junker, Manager.
HPHE NEW ROSSLYN, IosAngelss
Comprising the Lexington and Rosslyn
Hotels. American and European plans. Center of
city — 285 rooms — 150 with bath. Rates, Ameri-
can, $1.50 up; European, 75 cents up. Fine
sample rooms. Free 'bus meets all trains.
CT. FRANCIS, San Francisco
^ America's model hotel. European plan.
Built of stone and steel. Facing a beautiful
tropical garden in the heart of city. James
Woods, Manager.
A Good
Refrigerator
Is very easily obtained if
you know our
address
We carry a complete line of
80 Different Patterns
i„cud i „ 8 -OPAL" £? "BALDWIN"
the
These Refrigerators are the leading two manufactured in the country
and are famous for their durability and economy of ice
Before buying don't fail to examine our line
JAMES W. HELLMAN
16 J N. Spring Street Los Angeles, Cal,
Hummel Bros. & Co. furnish best help. 116-118 E. Second.
Sozodont
TOOTH
POWDER
used with Sozodont Liquid
makes an ideal dentifrice,
surpassing anything of
the kind ever offered to the
public. Ask your dentist.
WE MAKE *EM SOL WORKS "EM
OUR BUSINESS
To furnish Hot Water by Sunshine
with our
Improved Climax
Solar Water
Heater
Why burn fuel? Sunshine is free.
No Explosion. No danger.
No Expense.
DON'T LET YOUR ARCHITECT
FORGET THE SOLOR HEATER
SOLAR HEATER CO.
A. D. Davis, Mgr.
330 New High St.,
Los Ang'les, Cal.
Home Phone 2396 Write for an Agency
Continental Building & Loan
Association
CORNER MeRKET AND CHURCH STREETS
Paid in Capital and Reserve
$3,000,000.00
Special attention given to people desiring money to rebuild burned homes.
WASHINGTON DODGE President
GAVIN McNAB : Attorney
WM. CORBIN Secretary and General Manager
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109
the: conquest of the desert
By GEORGE BAKER ANDERSON.
ANY centuries ago the highest forms of civilization were
developed from physical conditions which rendered the
artificial watering of land imperative for the mainte-
nance of human life. History repeats itself. Today,
as in the era when the desert region bordering upon
the Nile was undergoing that marvelous transformation which gave
its inhabitants the foundation for the prestige among the nations
of the earth which they enjoyed, a metamorphosis of the same char-
acter, though on a vastly greater scale, is being wrought in that
portion of America within the limits of the territory which our
school geographies not many years ago vaguely described as "the
Great American Desert."
Notwithstanding the popular impression that the irrigation of
arid or semi-arid lands in the United States is a modern idea, his-
tory shows us that hundreds of years ago many thousands of human
beings occupying that portion of the country now known as the
Southwest sustained themselves by agriculture, rendered possible
by the irrigation of their lands. During the sixteenth century the
Spanish explorers who entered the valley of the Rio Grande in
"Xueva Mejico," as it afterward became known, found the Pueblo
Indians living in towns, cultivating the land, and irrigating it by
canals, many of which are in use at the present time. According
to tradition, the aboriginal inhabitants of the same region, and of
portions of the valley of the Gila river in Arizona, had been culti-
vating the naturally desert lands in those localities for centuries
prior to the Spanish Conquest. The ancient "Montezuma canal,"
as it is popularly known, lying between Florence and Casa Grande
in Arizona, was a desolate ruin in the days of Coronado. How long
it had been abandoned, or when it was constructed, is a subject of
pure conjecture.
A Spanish colony was established at Chamita, in New Mexico, in
1598. and another at Santa Fe in 1605. The latter colony existed
until 1680, when the settlers were driven out by the Pueblo Indians.
Twelve years later Spanish supremacy was reestablished, and from
that year until the Mexican War the valley of the Rio Grande in
New Mexico remained under the dominion of either Spain or Mex-
ico, and its inhabitants depended upon irrigation for the cultivation
of their lands.
The government of the United States, through the relatively at u
bureau of the Interior Department known as the Reclamation Serv-
ice, organized in 1902-3, after nearly a quarter of a century of con-
tinuous agitation. ha> been pushing forward its operations energel
no OUT WEST
ically and on a scale more extensive than the earlier advocates of
the undertaking could have anticipated. Up to those years practi-
cally all of the irrigation in the West had been carried on by indi-
viduals or private corporations. But no large private development
work has been financially successful. In most cases the cost of
durable irrigation structures has proven prohibitive to ordinary pri-
vate enterprise — a fact which became generally recognized only
after millions of dollars had been expended in works which, in many
instances, sooner or later have fallen as the result of the irresistible
onslaught of mountain floods.
In the Rio Grande valley in New Mexico — "the American Nile,"
as it is coming to be known — the Reclamation Service has recently
inaugurated work upon the greatest single irrigation project thus
far undertaken in America. While it is totally different in magni-
tude and practicability, it occupies the same territory as that occu-
pied by an enterprise undertaken thirteen years ago by citizens of
the Southwest, financed by British capitalists, and abandoned by
the original promoters after one of the most dramatic legal contests
in the history of Western development.
During the spring of 1892, Dr. Nathan Boyd, a wealthy Virgin-
ian, while in London learned from a fellow-American of the organ-
ization of a corporation called the American Colonization Com-
pany, which had been formed for the purchase and improvement of
irrigable lands located on the Rio Puerco, a branch of the Rio
Grande in New Mexico. Upon becoming acquainted with the salient
features of the colonization company's scheme, he willingly advanced
moneys, from time to time, for the promotion of the undertaking.
Soon afterward a number of young Englishmen of good families
emigrated to America to join the company's settlement near Albu-
querque. But they found that the company was unable to give clear
titles to the lands they had purchased, which formed part of an old
Spanish grant, and they asked Dr. Boyd to advise them as to the
best course to pursue. Sailing at once for America, the latter found
that there were numerous Mexican claimants to the land, and that in
all probability prolonged litigation would be required before perfect
title could be established. So dismal was the outlook that the settlers
soon abandoned their claims.
In the meantime a deputation of citizens of El Paso and Las
Cruces had called upon Dr. Boyd and requested him to investigate
the irrigation possibilities further down the Rio Grande, directing
his attention particularly to the locality south of the natural dam site
locally known as "Elephant Butte."
A knowledge of the characteristics of the Rio Grande and its catch-
ment area is essential to a correct conception of the manifold troubles
which followed Dr. Boyd's investigations. This remarkable river,
full of mysteries and idiosyncrasies, rising in the mountains of Colo-
THE CONQUEST OF THE DESERT in
rado, flows in a southerly direction through the entire length of the
territory of New Mexico to the northwest boundary of Texas. From
that point to "The Pass," about four miles above El Paso, it forms
the boundary line between New Mexico and Texas. Throughout
the remainder of 'its journey to the Gulf of Mexico, a distance of
about thirteen hundred miles, it forms the boundary line between
the United States and Mexico. It has always been a torrential, or
Dr. Nathan Boyd '
Promoter of Ue first proposed works at Elephant Buttr
storm-water, stream, subject to tremendous floods at certain sea-
sons and a dry bed, in places, at other periods. The country
through which it flows is extremely fertile ; but so meagre and
erratic is the rainfall that it is a desert, upon which no crops can be
raised without artificial irrigation.
For more than a quarter o! a century the American and Mexican
farmers of that valley and the citizens of Kl I'aso had been endeavor-
H2 OUT WEST
ing to raise capital for the construction of a large storage-dam and
a scientific system of distributing canals for the irrigation of this
large tract of land. National aid was long sought, and the coopera-
tion of Mexico earnestly solicited, but in vain. Finally, in 1892,
citizens of El Paso formed a company to build an international 1
storage-dam in the canon just above that city but upon full investi-
gation their engineers found that the cost of the undertaking would
be practically prohibitive. They also found that many thousands of
acres of fertile, alluvial valley-lands would have to be condemned
for reservoir purposes, and that the proposed dam would raise to
a much higher level the sub-surface water-table (or underflow)
above, and thereby "waterlog" and render totally unfit for farming
purposes some forty thousand acres in the Mesilla valley in New
Mexico, much of which already was under cultivation.
Having abandoned this plan, in 1893, the same individuals, asso-
ciated with citizens of Las Cruces, New Mexico, and vicinity, became
incorporated as the Rio Grande Dam and Irrigation Company, for
the purpose of erecting a great storage-dam at Elephant Butte,
located about one hundred and twelve miles above El Paso, and a
complete system of diverting dams and distributing canals for the
irrigation of the valley below, as far down as Fort Quitman, in
Texas. But on account of the condition of the money market in
America at this time, it was found to be impossible to raise, even
at usurious rates, the large amount of capital required to construct
and place in operation the proposed system.
The unparalleled possibilities for a mammoth colonization enter-
prise in that region, the facilities for the creation of a great storage
reservoir and for the economic distribution of the flood waters of the
coy and uncertain Rio Grande del Norte over nearly two hundred
thousand acres of exceedingly fertile land were so obvious — even to
the inexperienced eye — that Dr. Boyd finally concluded that he
would undertake to finance the enterprise. He returned to Europe
in 1894, and after spending nearly two years, and a small fortune, in
efforts to provide the necessary capital, a firm of company-solicitors
in London proposed to form an English company to finance the
American company. This was finally accomplished. An exception-
ally influential English board was secured, the members of which
invested heavily in the enterprise. It included Colonel W. J. Engle-
due, R. E., an irrigation expert of established repute ; the Earl of
Winchelsea and Nottingham, president of the National Agricultural
Association of Great Britain ; Lord Clanmorris, Lord Ernest Ham-
ilton and Robert J. Price, M. P. ; Mr. Samuel Hope Morley, Gover-
nor of the Bank of England ; Rt. Hon. Arnold Morley, a member of
the last Gladstone cabinet, and four other of England's multi-mil-
lionaires also became financially interested in the enterprise. Colonel
Engledue came over and investigated the engineering features of the
THE CONQUEST OF THE DESERT 113
proposed works and the rights and titles of the domestic company.
Work on the proposed dams and canals was begun ; a great coloniza-
tion system was organized ; branch offices and agencies were estab-
lished in Great Britain and on the Continent ; and contracts were
made for the sale of large blocks of land for fruit and vine culture,
the company undertaking to provide water within two years. Wide-
spread general interest in the enterprise in particular and in the
resources of the American Southwest in general was aroused, both
in the United States and in Europe, when, at the instigation of
General Anson Mills, commissioner of the International Boundary
Commission, the Attorney-General of the United States, on May
Proposed Dam Site at Elephant Butte
24, 1897, instituted proceedings enjoining the completion of the
work.
The news came like a thunderbolt from the blue to the inhabitants
of the Rio Grande valley, who were congratulating themselves that
the efforts of many years to bring about an improvement in their
condition were at last about to be rewarded in a substantial manner.
This action on the part of the federal government appears to have
been the outcome of plans laid some time before by promoters of a
proposed international irrigation scheme which, if successfully con-
summated, would have forever deprived the American States drained
in part by the Rio Grande of the use of any considerable proportion
of its waters for purposes of irrigation. For several years prior
to the inauguration of this proceeding, there had been a great
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THE CONQUEST OF THE DESERT 115
scarcity of water, especially in Southern New Mexico, and in that
portion of Mexico bordering upon the river. This led to a com-
plaint from the Republic of Mexico, and as the result of diplomatic
negotiations between the two countries, in May, 1896, the matter
was referred to the International Boundary Commission for investi-
gation. The United States engineer who conducted the investiga-
tion, Mr. W. W. Follette, made an able report to the International
Commission, in which he showed the true cause of the scarcity of
water. The commission, in turn, reported to the federal govern-
ment, recommending as "the best and most feasible mode of regu-
lating the use of water and securing to each country and its inhabit-
ants their legal and equitable rights in said waters," that the United
States government should buy all necessary land, pay all damages,
and at its own expense construct an international dam "at "The
Pass," four miles above El Paso; submerge over twenty-five thou-
sand acres of highly productive land in Texas and New Mexico;
extend the international boundary upstream to the dam site, giving
Mexico additional territory in order that one end of the dam might
be on Mexican soil ; deed one-half of the dam, the reservoir and the
water supply to the Republic of Mexico, and in some way prevent
the future construction of any large reservoirs in the river within the
territory of New Mexico.
While this investigation clearly established the fact that increased
irrigation in Colorado caused a shortage of water in New Mexico,
Texas and Mexico, the recommendations of the commission, had they
been favorably acted upon, not only would have deprived New Mex-
ico of all benefits to be derived from a project inaugurated for the
ostensible purpose of making up this very deficiency, but would have
utterly ruined the rich Mesilla valley and put an end forever to all
fiilnre irrigation projects on lhat portion of this river within the
borders of the United States !
Mr. B. M. Hall, supervising engineer of the Reclamation Service,
acting under the direction of Mr. F. H. Newell, the chief engineer,
and Mr. A. P. Davis, assistant chief engineer, after a careful de-
tailed investigation of the entire irrigation proposition in the South-
west, generously suggested as "a reasonable explanation of these
extraordinary recommendations" that the commission probably had
no alternative plan for consideration. At that time the government
had no Reclamation Service ; but within a few years conditions have
completely changed, and there has been presented an alternative plan
by which it is practicable to satisfy Mexico's demand for "more
water," and accomplish vastly more for the afflicted area of our
own country than could have been effected by the consummation
of the plans of the International Boundary Commission or of the
private corporation promoted by Dr. Boyd.
In its bill of complaint in the government's action referred to in
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THE CONQUEST OF THE DESERT 117
the foregoing, it was alleged that the company proposed to secure
an improper monopoly of all the waters available for irrigation below
Elephant Butte; that the Rio Grande is navigable in New Mexico,
and that therefore the proposed dam would obstruct navigation ; and
that its construction would be a violation by the United States of
its treaty obligations to Mexico.
Years of litigation followed this action on the part of the federal
authorities — litigation that has cost the government hundreds of
thousands of dollars and ruined the chief moving spirit in the enter-
prise. Trial after trial has occurred, the result of constant appeals
on the part of the government to the federal Supreme Court, and in
each instance the prime contentions of the government have been
overthrown. It was proven during these trials that the Rio Grande
is not now and never has been a navigable river within the official
definition of the War Department, which controls the navigable
streams of the country. It was established that the treaty between
this country and Mexico was violated in no manner whatever by the
work done, and would not have been violated by the completion of
any of the work then in contemplation. It was also definitely estab-
lished that, through the efforts of the International Boundary Com-
mission, the United States government was made sponsor for a
gigantic scheme for an international irrigation dam — in the face of
the prior efforts of this body to prove that any irrigation dam in
the Rio Grande would interfere with navigation, and be in violation
of the treaty between this country and Mexico — proposing to furnish
to the occupants of lands in a foreign country coming under the
system free water, forever, in consideration of their relinquishing
certain preposterous claims against the United States for mythical
damages to the extent of nearly thirty-five millions of dollars!
The proposition touching Mexico's alleged treaty rights, while
partaking of the nature of an act from a comic opera, nevertheless
was so urgently pressed upon the authorities at Washington as to
necessitate the outlay of a considerable fortune, on the part of the
friends of the irrigation project, in order to prevent its consumma-
tion. Somewhere in Washington a powerful clique was constantly
intriguing, for three years or more, to the end that the international
dam might be built (our government bearing the entire cost of the
work), largely for the benefit of Mexican farmers living on Mexican
soil, at the expense of the farmers of three American States, who
Wife to be forever deprived of the Tight to use any considerable pro-
portion of the waters of their greatest river for purposes of irrigation.
Think of the iniquity of this stupendous scheme 1
As a last resort, the government was induced to declare the rights
of the founders of the project forfeited because they had not done
the very thing which the government itself had enjoined them from
doing, namely, completed the work within the time limit prescribed.
1 18 OUT WEST
All of this litigation, it should be borne in mind, took place before
the United States Reclamation Service came into existence.
Upon the passage by Congress of the Reclamation Act for the
arid and semi-arid West, a new question presented itself. Though
the people of the valley had asked, by numerous petitions, for the
discontinuance of the litigation by which the government sought to
deprive the company of the rights which it had previously conferred
upon it, they found that they could obtain relief under the new law,
and asked the government to inaugurate a reclamation project on
the Rio Grande. In November of last year (1905) the Reclamation
Service set aside the sum of two hundred thousand dollars for the
beginning of the work. This is but a small fractian of the amount
required, but the remainder will doubtless be provided for its com-
pletion, when this great valley in New Mexico and Texas, now little
better than a desert, shall be made to "blossom like the rose."
The project recently inaugurated by the government contemplates
the greatest single irrigation system in the United States, and, com-
pared to the other irrigation undertakings in the world, second in
importance to the great works on the Nile only. The storage dam
across the river near the little town of Engle, about a third of a mile
below the site selected by the old Elephant Butte company ; the di-
version dams, the canals and the auxiliary features of the system
will cost the government, according to the estimates of the engineers
in charge, the vast sum of seven million two hundred thousand dol-
lars. Two hundred thousand dollars of this sum is to be expended
at once upon the construction of a diversion at Leasburg.
The main dam will create a reservoir one hundred and seventy-
five feet deep at its lower end and about forty miles in length, with
a storage capacity of two million acre-feet, equal to a body of water
one foot in depth spread over a flat surface having an area of two
million acres, or over eighty-seven billion square feet, or three thou-
sand one hundred and twenty-five square miles — an area nearly
twice as great as that of the State of Delaware, and about three
times as great as that of the State of Rhode Island. This means,
in other words, that the flood waters to be held in storage in this
gigantic dam, if suddenly loosed, would cover an area equal to that
of Rhode Island to the depth of about three feet.
The Engle dam will be arched upstream on a six-degree curve, the
up-stream edge of the crest having a radius of nine hundred and fifty-
five feet. From the bedrock foundation to the top of the parapet
walls on the crest of the dam the distance will be two hundred and
fifty-five feet, and from the sand of the river bed to the crest, one
hundred and ninety feet. The concrete dam will be one hundred and
eighty feet thick at the bottom, twenty feet thick at the top, eleven
hundred and fifty feet in length at the top and four hundred feet in
length at the present river level. On the top or crest of the dam
THE CONQUEST OF THE DESERT 119
there will be constructed a roadway fourteen feet wide, with guard-
ing walls of concrete five feet high. If it be found profitable to
develop power by the pressure of the waters in the reservoir, it will
be produced by means of iron pipes passing from the reservoir
through a rock bluff at the end of the dam.
Although the river was practically dry for three months in 1900
and for five months in 1904, while the work of construction is in
progress it will be necessary to provide a flume or other water-way
eight hundred feet long that will carry all the water of the river
and keep it out of the excavation for the dam. As bedrock is about
sixty-five feet below the present river-bed, it will be necessary to
excavate about sixty-five feet of sand and gravel to get the dam on
a permanent and safe foundation.
A further idea of the gigantic proportions of the enterprise may
be gathered by the estimates of the material to be removed, and that
which will be necessary to the construction of the dam. In the first
place 44,400 cubic yards of rock and earth and 335,000 cubic yards
of sand must be removed, in addition to which 5,000 cubic yards of
bed-rock must be blasted out to afford ample anchorages. In the
construction of the dam, 410,000 cubic yards of cyclopean concrete
must be laid, 114,000 yards of which will be built below the river
bed, and 296,000 yards above the river bed. In the manufacture of
this concrete about 300,000 barrels of cement will be used. The
reservoir will store the entire flow of the river without waste and
with a minimum evaporation, and will prevent the recurrence of
disastrous floods along those portions of the valley now occupied by
the railroad and by several important towns.
While all the money for this beneficent enterprise — upwards of
seven millions of dollars, not counting the fortune which has already
been expended in surveys and the other labors of the Reclamation
Service — is to be spent by the United States government, it is to be
advanced merely in the nature of a loan to the people to be directly
benefited, without interest. One hundred and eighty thousand acres
of exceptionally fertile land will be watered, at an expense, it will
be noticed, of forty dollars per acre. Proceeding on strictly business
principles, the government, before entering upon the project, de-
manded of those landholders throughout the valley whose property is
to receive the direct benefits of the project an iron-clad, irrevocable
contract for the ultimate repayment of this enormous loan. In ac-
cordance with the requirements of the federal law, the first thing
to be done was to organize and incorporate water-user's associations.
which could deal directly with the government, the individuals be-
coming responsible to the associations, and tin- associations, in turn.
be comi ng responsible to the g ov ernment for tin- faithful fulfillment
of the contracts. Two water-users' associations win- formed, one
1 20 O U T IV EST
having headquarters at Las Cruces, New Mexico, and the other at
El Paso, Texas. Each association is composed of individuals own-
ing lands in the reservoir district. Upon their organization these
corporations procured contracts with the various landowners to the
effect that the latter will repay to the government, in ten equal annual
installments, without interest, the cost of constructing the irrigating
svstem. In other words, each acre of land irrigated must return to
the government, through one or the other of these associations, four
dollars per annum for a period of ten years. Upon the expiration
of that time the clam will become the property of the proprietors of
the lands, though its operation thereafter will be administered under
governmental supervision by the water-users' associations. The
legal effect of this undertaking on the part of the government is
practically the making of a mortgage to the associations upon all the
lands to be benefited, to secure to the government the annual pay-
ments mentioned.
This vast governmental undertaking has been placed under the
personal direction of Mr. B. M. Hall, supervising engineer for the
Reclamation Service in New Mexico, Texas and Oklahoma. Mr.
W. H. Sanders, a prominent member of the board of consulting en-
gineers, is especially available for consultation in this region. Inas-
much as this Rio Grande project is the greatest single task in the
way of irrigation to which the federal government has put its hand,
these men have become almost national figures. To Dr. Nathan
Boyd, who took the first practical steps toward saving and developing
the many billions of gallons of water annually going to waste in this
great arid region, belongs the credit for the inception of the enter-
prise. Unfortunately for him and his associates, however, their
plans for the storage of the water and the irrigation of the land ap-
pear, according to expert governmental authority, to have been im-
perfect ; and it has remained for the Reclamation Service to amplify
and complete the plans now perfected and soon to be put into opera-
tion. The task, beyond question, was too great for a private corpor-
ation of relatively limited finances, large as was the sum of money
pledged to the undertaking by the original promoters.
It will thus be seen that the government is now simply occupying
the same ground that Dr. Boyd and his associates undertook to
occupy. It is working out plans conceived and advocated mam-
years ago by Major J. W. Powell when he was director of the United
States Geological Survey. He died without witnessing the fruits of
his pioneer labors ; but his nephew, Mr. Arthur Powell Davis, who
was his constant companion, is now assistant chief engineer of the
service. Mr. Newell, the chief engineer, was also a companion of
this grand old man ; and these two men have utilized his ideas in
planning the Rio Grande project. Under their direction Mr. Hall
THE CONQUEST OF THE DESERT 121
worked out the details of a practical project and persuaded the war-
ring element to accept it. The Reclamation Service, which came
upon the scene after Dr. Boyd's project had been overthrown, had to
kill the rival international dam scheme in order to get a clear field
for its operations.
To a greater or less extent the importance of this long and sinuous
B. M. Haix
Engineer in charge of the Rio Qrande Project
stream as a means of irrigation most vitally affects the agricultural
interests of a region fully twelve hundred miles in length. Owing
to the great aridity of the climate, agricultural pursuits in that section
<>f our country are practically impossible- without water artificially
procured, and the waters of the Rio Grande and its tributaries consti-
tute the chief source of supply for all the irrigable lands of the terri-
tory. Under irrigation small holdings, worthless under natural con-
i22 OUT WEST
ditions, are rendered exceedingly profitable when carefully cultivated.
This permits a happy combination of urban and rural life favorable
to the development of the best and noblest institutions of society.
The most valuable and productive farming lands on the American
continent are to be found in irrigated areas, and the largest yield of
nearly every staple crop known to the temperate and sub-tropical
belts has been obtained by irrigating with the fertilizing waters of the
"American Nile."
The United States annually produces more precious metals than
any other country in the world ; but the annual wheat crop of Minne-
sota alone exceeds in value the annual output of all the gold mines
in the country. Colorado leads all the other states in the Union in
the production of precious metals ; but the value of the products of
her irrigated farms is nearly double that of her mines. In New
Mexico productive mines have long been operated ; but with such
irrigation as the physical conditions of the territory permit, her farms
must inevitably become her chief source of prosperity, and at a rel-
atively near period add many millions of dollars annually to the
agricultural wealth of the nation.
It is estimated that the products of irrigated lands throughout the
arid West give an average annual net return of $12.80 per acre. The
lands of the Rio Grande valley — the alluvial deposits of ages — are of
unsurpassed fertility, and under proper irrigation and scientific cul-
tivation returns are exceedingly large. Owing to the richness of the
soil and the perfect climate, farming with an adequate water supply
produces great profits. The Department of Agriculture shows that
the valley is the centre of the sugar belt of the United States. If
devoted to the culture of this product alone, it would support a popu-
lation of from a quarter to half a million.
As an example of what is possible of accomplishment by the appli-
cation of correct methods in the cultivation of formerly arid and un-
productive land when placed under irrigation, the noteworthy record
made by Mr. Oscar C. Snow of Mesilla Park, known as the "alfalfa
king" of New Mexico, will serve sufficiently. The success which has
attended his labors is exceptional, it is true, but for two principal rea-
sons only. First he made a careful study of one subject — alfalfa cul-
ture. Second, he became one of a relatively small number of agri-
culturists who found that he could secure from the very poor irrigat-
ing system upon which he depended a reasonable volume of water
part of the time — though not all that he needed part of the time, nor
a modicum all of the time. The lack of water at the critical moment
has been a serious drawback to him, though perhaps not so serious as
in the case of farmers more remote from the source of the hereto-
fore limited and very uncertain supply.
In 1893, at the age of twenty years, a year before his graduation
THE CONQUEST OF THE DESERT 123
from the New Mexico College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts,
with borrowed money, Mr. Snow leased a small tract of land — about
one hundred acres — on part of which he sowed alfalfa. In 1896 he
made his first purchase — one hundred and six acres — all of which he .
irrigated and put under alfalfa. Some years he cuts four crops of
this staple from each acre, some years five crops. The average total
annual cutting per acre is from five to six tons. This, it should be
borne in mind, has been the result of the employment of the very un-
certain waterflow of the Rio Grande. Sometimes he could secure
sufficient water for his needs — oftener he could not. When the sup-
ply was abundant, a yield of two tons per acre at the first cutting was
the result.
Starting with a trifle over one hundred acres in 1896, Mr. Snow ^
purchased an additional hundred acres in 1897, with the profits from
his alfalfa culture, another hundred in 1898, and another hundred in
1899. Nearly every acre of the land he purchased was "wild" — arid,
uncultivated, desert land, with its only value for agricultural purposes
in the prospective. He has thus cleared, cultivated and irrigated
about eight hundred of the thousand acres he owns, and is preparing
to place under water as much more as he is able to purchase. At a
conservative estimate his property is worth, at the current market
rate, upwards of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars.
A remarkable showing, you say. Yes, it is. But there are hun-
dreds of opportunities equally great along the banks of the "Ameri-
can Nile."
At the request of the Department of Agriculture, Mr. Snow has
made experiments with other products, notably with macaroni wheat.
In 1900 he sowed eleven bushels of the seed of this wheat furnished
by the government, on about twelve acres of land. With imperfect
irrigation the yield was above forty bushels to the acre. In 1905 he
made a similar experiment in dwarf milo maize (commonlv known
as Kaffir corn), and the results attained (not yet made public by the
department) lead him to believe that this product will ultimately be
even more valuable than alfalfa as a general stock feed.
Experiments have proven that in addition to the products to which
reference has been made, most varieties of grain, sugar-cane, sugar-
beets, cotton, potatoes, sweet potatoes and many varieties of fruit can
be grown most profitably in the Rio Grande valley. With agricul- <
ture still an infant industry, no man can accurately gauge the full 4
possibilities of the country. But such definite knowledge as has been
gained as the result of years of experiment has demonstrated the fact
that in that portion of this great valley lying under the proposed irri-
gation system, thousands of people will soon find not only a pleasant
abiding place, but abundant opportunities for laying the foundations
for generous competencies for their offspring. And without the aid
of the government, a durable basis of this future wealth would be im-
practicable of accomplishment.
Albuque«|ue. New Mexico.
I 21
SANTA IX READING ROOMS
By S. E. BUSSER.
O ESTABLISH a quasi-university on a great railroad
system, at which employees may pursue special studies,
and come directly in contact with the forces of higher
education, seems at first thought to be a dream of
Utopian fancy, but this is what is being accomplished
on the Santa Fe.
Our common word, "opportunity," means standing at an open
door. Its Latin root is the same word we apply to a harbor open-
ing out into the sea. These Reading Rooms are given to our em-
ployees as doors opening into a larger world. Railroad work neces-
sarily becomes monotonous after a time. There are the same track
to run over, the same scenes to look at, the same machines to handle,
and the same rules and methods to follow. It is easy to get into
a rut and stay there ; easy to become mechanical in thought and
character, as well as daily work.
For example, an engineer begins his trade as hostler and wiper
in the roundhouse. Then he must serve several years as fireman
B. K. BrssKR
Superintendent Santa Ke Reading Rooms
126
our WEST
before he gets an engine. He becomes an expert in his line, but
he has had little time for outside studies. After work-hours he must
sleep, and after sleep he must work. So it is every day and all the
time.
Yet with all this pressure of duties and necessity for rest, every
railroad employee has considerable time at the end of his runs, which
might be used to advantage, if he had the opportunity and stimulant
to attract and move him. Naturally, in these spare hours, he feels
inclined to go to a show, or to "run against a game" of some kind,
or to seek for almost any kind of a good time. At this point in his
life the Reading Room comes to him as a godsend. It is literally an
Reading Room at Winslow, Arizona, in Winter
open door to him, a splendid opportunity for self-development, a
teacher ready to instruct, an answerer of difficult questions, and
an inspirer for the acquirement of handy and useful knowledge. It
enables him to correct his deficiencies in early education. By be-
coming more proficient, his work grows easier, and he has more
time; than formerly for such pursuits. He enters a new world of
intellectual pleasures and discovers that mind may control matter.
His mind is awakened. He is out of the rut. He has sources of
enjoyment that he never dreamed of before. The solution of one
hard problem leads to the solving of another. When a brain is at
the shovel, lathe or throttle in railroad service, the company is to
be congratulated and seldom has trouble.
We have a number of methods and considerable machinery aiming
SANTA FE RK.IPIXG ROOMS
i 27
at two results — the self-development of the employees, and the stim-
ulation of them to use the privileges provided. At each Reading
Room there is a carefully selected library. The International, the
Universal, and Johnson's encyclopedias, are found in the book-cases,
and the latest and best technical works are provided. The test of
these libraries is, that they must answer any question on Science,
Literature, History, Biography, or Railroad Mechanism.
Every one of them will stand the test. They are none of them
very large, but no employee has yet brought a problem that could
not be unfolded from the shelves of research volumes.
For lighter reading, we have nearly all the great novels. Not all
Kkaimm, ilOOII at Ai.m 01 i.kouK, NEW Mkxico
of Dickens, but the five best he gave the world. And so of all
authors — only the truly great books are there.
As one agency for drawing the men around this intellectual cen-
ter, we have established a lecture and entertainment bureau, and
several times a month, we give them the opportunity of listening
to the men and women who are molding the thought of the age.
Many of these entertainments are musical. Some arc lighter than
others, but all are aimed at the enlargement of the intellectual hori-
zon — to help them see farther by opening doors.
As a further stimulant, the employees are asked to assist in the
lion of books and lecturers. They bring to the Librarian lists
of books the) would like to read. They are asked to name eminent
teaeher> the) would like to hear. In thi> way, it is known just
128
OUT WEST
what lines of thought the employees are following, and correct pro-
vision can be made for their wants.
The use of the books is something phenomenal. While fiction is,
naturally, the first choice, heavier works are not neglected, and
biographical writings are in considerable demand. "The Making
of an American," by Riis, has been worn out at some places.
Gibbons, Grote and Hume have been in constant use. Motley's
works are quite popular. Works on German philosophy have many
readers. Among technical works, treatises on Engines and Engine
Running are most popular. Strange to say, there is little call for
poetry. Occultism has some followers among railroad people.
*
\~ " "
*
Santa Fe Reading Room at Purcell, Indian Territory
We have no use for printed sermons, but religious novels have
many readers.
In this manner the inquiring and aspiring mind of our employees
is appealed to, and we have many rich results to show that the method
is practicable and successful. It has been truly said by an apt
scholar and a man of influence in letters, that "any employee on the
Santa Fe may acquire a liberal education, if he applies himself to
these agencies and earnestly uses these means." As an illustration,
one of our engineers will deliver an illustrated lecture at all the
Reading Rooms on the system. By the use of these books and by
contact with these scientists and scholars, he has learned the art of
platform speaking, and has prepared a lecture that will be considered
S.l.XT.i FE READING ROOMS
129
as good as any other, by thousands of his co-laborers who will hear
him.
Railroad men are generally healthy and strong. It is not a busi-
ness for "lungers." dyspeptics, or invalids of any kind. They do
not need football games to keep them in good physical condition.
Their work requires nerve, energy, quickness of action, and mar-
velous powers of endurance. Being obliged to possess such bodies,
it is evident that rich blood will course through their brains and their
minds be bright and active.
It is surprising what talent may be found among this army of
employes. I know one man who led a band larger than Innes's
Band all through Europe. We have men who paint, write for the
press, and many who are expert photographers, geologists, chemists,
Railway Rkadinc Room at Nkkdi.ks, Cal
A new building, costing *fiO,000. will soon be open
and even astronomers. 1 have bad eminent lecturers on our nos-
trum — teachers in Eastern colleges — who were floored by questions
from some employee, who knew as much about the subject as the
lecturer did.
The standard in music and literary productions has hern raised so
high, that it is difficult to find entertainers who can fill it. Rag-time
music will have more followers in Chicago than in a Santa I'Y enter-
tainment hall. A very prominent actress of New York, who WW
accepted to give entertainments, asked me if it was necessary to
appear in her best costumes. It' she hail slighted them in her dress-
ing, they would have left the room. Railroad men are trained to
consider a beautifully gowned woman as a result of the highest art,
and they never grow wean of looking at it. It is c;im to organize
a quartette, or secure talent for any kind of entertainment, from
•3°
OUT WEST
among our employees, which would be acceptable and successful in
any opera-house in the country.
The intellectual influences of these Reading Rooms on the Santa
Fe reach also the families of the employees. The wives and daugh-
ters have a standing in this quasi-university. They read the books,
attend the lectures, organize clubs for which the Company buys
literature, and are calling for special teachers in every department
of study.
While the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway System is not
a member of "The Federation of Woman's Clubs of the United
States," I am frank to say that it ought to be ; for it has one of the
best club systems in the country. It is doing more for the elevation
and development of woman, surrounding her by the very best in-
Reading Room at Newton, Kansas
fluences and aids, than any hundred of the leading organizations of
the land. If I should publish some of the letters I have received
from officials of the Santa Fe, asking me to provide a place for the
widows of employees and approving expenditures for their happi-
ness and comfort, the eyes of the world would open wide in a
beautiful surprise at the sweet and lovely sentiments and almost
sacred motives that govern the management of what a harsh and
unjust criticism calls a "soulless corporation."
But not only in intellectual matters are these Reading Rooms on
the Santa Fe centers and suns of inAuence ; socially they are doing
just as great and important a work, and, in fact, at many points they
constitute about all the society there is. The management is spend-
ing considerable money upon this feature. Women are being sent
out to spend days among the families of the employees, teaching
/
SANTA FE READING ROOMS 131
them how to adorn the home, the best sanitary laws and methods, and
to give them the purest ideals of domestic and social life. We have
been criticised for having dances at the Reading Rooms, but the
social results are very satisfactory and beautiful. They afford op-
portunities for the women to be brought together and to become
acquainted, and the Company provides the best music, and that is
helpful.
At Needles. California, in the center of the great desert, some
time ago the Division Superintendent invited all the children of the
town to the Reading Room and gave them a good time with ice-
cream, cakes and games of all kinds. He paid the bill and was the
happiest man on earth.
Women don't run engines, but they come pretty near to running
the men that do run them. When the love of a pure, good woman
handles the throttle of an engine, the passengers on the train can
feel assured that they are as nearly safe as it is possible to be.
The Reading Rooms are part of an attempt to solve some of the
darkest and most difficult sociological problems of the age. How
may we close the chasm between the employer and the employed?
How may we cause the employee on the line to realize what the
executive official must do to keep the institution that brings him
bread and butter intact and productive? How may we convey a
realizing sense of what the employee on the line must endure of
hardships, toil and sacrifice, to the executive officials in their com-
fortable offices?
When President Ripley inaugurated the Reading Room Depart-
ment on his lines, he said : "I wish the brotherhood idea to prevail
— that we are all one family with common heartbeats, sentiments,
and objects." His theory was to let our employees have the same
centers of life that we have. Let them get inspiration from the
same books, the same entertainments, and similar opportunities of
relaxation and recreation with ourselves. By surrounding them
with books, magazines, lectures, and illustrated science, they do have
the same opportunities for self-development as the high officials
living in the great centers. By making these Reading Rooms intel-
lectual and social centers, no employee can wander very far away
into the dark. The results already attained in this work on the
Santa Fe prove that it is a correct and successful solution of this
problem.
Prom a moral standpoint these results arc still more in evidence
and certainly more interesting. The unit of responsibility has been
placed in the individual. An employee so treated will become proud
of his reputation as an intelligent and refined citizen. From his
obscure jK>sition on the di hostler, engineman, or trackman.
he has come forth into the eyes of the world, and is openly acknowl-
edged to be a factor in the achievements and glory of his age.
To treat a man as a man is to develop manhood. Take all tin-
superstition out of religion, and you have left only hart- manhood,
and after all. manhood is the salvation of the world. We had noth-
ing to do with our coming into this world, and we expect to have
little to do with our going '"it. The Santa I ; e solution is to <^ct all
yOU can ont of thi^ existence, and not worry about some other.
"Act in the living presence; hearts within and God overhead."
Emporia. Kama*.
'3 2
AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL WEDDING
JOURNEY
By THERESA RUSSELL
CHAPTER VIII.
THE NEXT STATION
"With me along some Strip of Herbage strown
That just divides the desert from the sown,
Where name of Slave and Sultan scarce is known,
And pity SultanMahmud on his Throne."
HEN we awoke next morning, after a night spent in the
open, we found a lonesome-looking camp. The horses
had both deserted us this time, so Sliver explained, and
Erminio had gone to hunt them.
"Good for Bill !" I could not but exclaim. "He has
at last discovered that he might as well go along in the first place
and have some fun out of it himself. Miles are so much shorter
when you travel them in freedom and gay vagabondage."
"Bill is just catching on," rejoined my breakfast vis-a-vis, "that
martyrdom is out of date. But this belated discernment, in its reflex
action on us, leaves us the choice of waiting on time, or going on
ahead — and afoot. Which shall it be ?"
"A Strenuous as Well as a Shining Way"
THE NEXT STATION
133
"The standing-and-waiting sort of service never appealed to me.
Let's vamose."
"By taking a straight line over the mesa, we can shorten the dis-
tance. It can't be more than eight or ten miles across, though of
course much farther around the point by the wagon road."
So leaving Sliver to welcome the wanderers heme, and appointing
a rendezvous on the other side, we vamosed.
"Seems to me even the Man-in-the-Boat would enjoy this," I said,
as we swung out into the long-distance stride, breathing deep with
the exhilaration of six A. M.
"Why shouldn't he?"
Forgot to Have a Trail Entirely"
"Well, he has a prejudice against this time of day, you know.
Don't you remember his complaint about early risers, that they are
conceited all the forenoon and stupid all the afternoon?"
"He'd have a glorious time travelling with our outfit, wouldn't
he? By the time he would get around to his toast and English
breakfast tea, the place that had known us at coffee and flapjack
time would know us no more."
"Worse yet. He never could have his toast and tea at all."
"I'ourquoi"
\ Britisher to breakfast before he has tubbed I And how much
of a plunge could he rxtract out of a canteen ?"
"< >h. well, people sometime* learn new tricks. I've known a young
134
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woman, for instance, whose natural devotion to water leads one to
suspect an amphibious ancestor, to scrub her shining morning- face
with the damp corner of a towel, and feel dressed up."
"Maybe so. But she wasn't born on an island. In any case,
though, the sunbath you get out here without extra charge does help
to keep your cuticle clean and your temper sweet."
"Sweetness and light being linked in fact as well as by the happy
phrase of one who had his share of both. And it truly is a defunct
sort of a day that is beheaded of its sunrise."
"Although one observes that the remaining part sometimes proves
a sprightly corpse. Still, when I write an epic I shall sing of suns
and the morn."
"Me Sleepy "
"Good enough. But don't begin on it now, please. One should
never construct poetry as long as he can enjoy himself in any other
way."
"Might one quote a little piece, then?"
"If one can't help it."
"Oh, that line just came into my mind — 'The soul partakes of the
season's youth.' "
"If it were only of the season's youth, and the poor soul had to
wait for an annual freshening up, along with the spring house-clean-
ing, we would be an even more jaded set of mortals than we are.
But thanks to the system that gives the sad old earth a twelve-hour
THE NEXT STATION
135
shift of ageing day and rejuvenating night, the soul is enabled to
partake of the dayspring's youth. And if it would make the most
of its chances, it might learn to laugh in the face of Time."
"So you wouldn't regard the 'sulphurous rifts of passion and woe'
as 'burnt-out craters healed with snow ?' "'
"Snow melts ; and is cold comfort besides. I should prefer to have
mine healed with sunshine."
â– "Well, if you happen to have any along with you, they ought to
meet with speedy repair under the present dispensation."
For our morning had by now become a full-grown day, rioting
with insolent abandon over our path. It was a strenuous as well as
a shining way, for it led either up hill or down hill, or it was filled
'he Diggings
with plenteous, soft sand, or it forgot to have a trail entirely. But
time and perseverance wore it out, and the descending sun looked
down upon a re-united family building its rag-house upon the sands
of old Awatobi.
The discovery next morning was not of loss but of increase. We
had a neighbor. He had come, as do angels and thieves, in the
night, ami his white tents now shone with startling -Lire against
the unscreened sand. For the First Arrivals had coolly (meaning,
in an attempt to be cool) appropriated all the shade there was. From
preceding rumors, however, we knew our neighbor, who he was —
neither an angel nor a thief, but just a plain scientist, like ourselves.
and on the same business bent.
Wherefore. Pair Harvard, as became the oldest inhabitant, made
a fraternal call upon Field Columbian and invited him to dinner.
!•'. C« would have been pleased to accept, but that he had already
136
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planned to go to a festival over at Mishonganovi. So F. H. had
to drown his disappointment in the extra cnp of tea and mitigate
his regret by having pickles for dinner just the same.
Yet was our camp not without company. Early in the afternoon,
a calico-clad old dame, bare as to head and feet, sauntered compla-
cently into my tent, seated herself with deliberate composure, and
watched with passive interest the white squaw at her sewing and
writing. Being* presented with a paper of pins and some coveted
scraps of cloth, she wrinkled up her withered face into a somewhat
grudging smile and toyed with them until they seemed to have a
hypnotic effect, for presently she ejaculated in plain but astonishing
Roofless Bits of Waus "
English, "Me sleepy !" put her grey mop of a head down on my table
and took a nap. When she awoke she accepted a cup of coffee and
an invitation to go with me down to the "diggings."
When I took up my little trowel and went to work, she gazed
intently for awhile, then took a silent and somewhat speedy depar-
ture. Knowing the abhorrence of her race for "los muertos," I
supposed she was fleeing from the devil and all his works ; but in a
moment here she came marching back, armed with a shovel and an
air of determination. Then she proceeded to assist. She would
uncover the buried treasures and point them out to us, being very
careful not to touch the evil thing. But as she warmed to the work,
enthusiasm must have unconsciously outweighed superstition, for
THE NEXT STATION
'37
Wherk Once Were Doors and Windows"
she did actually pick up some of the bones with her own fingers. If,
as a Wise Man says, we are convicted of sin by our religious train-
ing rather than by our judgment, this woman was a terrible trans-
gressor and probably paid the utmost penalty. But now, having
once yielded to temptation she seemed bent on making an orgy of it
and seeing to it that the crime should fit the punishment, which, of
course, is good economy.
When Erminio explained to her that she must not break up the
bones and pottery, she went off again and this time returned with the
fire-stick, with which mild implement she punched industriously.
The Mexican "jollied" her, she talked to him like a grandmother,
and I enjoyed the nimble repartee as well as though it had been in-
telligible. Altogether it was quite a successful social function, in-
asmuch as everybody stayed late and nobody was bored.
Our new ruin had more of the picturesque effect above ground
than any we had yet encountered. But this part was not aboriginal.
The roofless bit! of walls, with yawning holes where once were doors
138 OUT WEST
and windows, were pathetic monuments to the Jesuits — those pioneer
missionaries, who threw into their pious work among these remote
heathen a full measure of that unreflecting ardor that most of us
reserve for our own secular affairs. The end of their years of faith-
ful labor came one night, when the Indians, in a sudden revolt
against the half-accepted but totally unassimilated religion, did away
with it by the simple, direct expedient of pitching the priests over the
cliff and tearing down the church.
And now, two centuries later, on these ancient parapets flutters
the family wash, and around them cluster the fancies of these Anglo-
Saxon visitors, who, alien to Indian and Spaniard alike, can give
to each an equal share of pity and of justice.
And yet, with all our open-mindedness, it is perhaps easier, in
these days of laissez-faire, to comprehend the motive of the mur-
derers than to realize the incentive of the martyrs. The beauty of
freedom appeals to us more poignantly than the holiness of crusades.
And with all reverence for its high purpose, we find ourselves saying
to the mission-fevered soul, "How is it possible that you can sup-
pose that what another man believes is of such consequence that to
induce him to discard his own interpretation of life in favor of yours
is worth the sacrifice of your own life?"
"You haven't touched bottom yet," said the Man of Science, as he
reloaded the kodak. "The real undercurrent is not a matter of
belief or unbelief. It is the principle of conquest, the joy of wield-
ing influence and dominating another's thought. And, moreover, it
touches the innate human passion for accumulating. Some choose
to collect dollars ; others have a fancy for wreaths of laurel ; still
others prefer souls. And may not a man have what he wants, if he
is willing to pay for it?"
"He is prone to take it, anyhow. And is he thereby justified in any
kind of choice?"
"Justification of others is not a human prerogative, any more than
condemnation. But the wise man will pray for an honest ambition
and the grace to use it independently and unselfishly."
"Supper all leady !" sings out Sliver, and in a trice all our philoso-
phy is plumb forgot.
Stanford University, Cal.
â– 39
KING'S RIVER CANON
By THOMAS T. WATERMAN.
ARLY in post-Pleiocene times, when the uplifting of the
California Sierras had just been completed, the valley
we now know as King's River canon was in all prob-
ability very much like any other canon of the familiar
Sierra (Y) shape, differing only in size, perhaps, from
its neighbors. It possessed one distinguishing feature, however, in
the great rock basins — ten thousand feet above the sea — which
center still around its head, and into which its higher levels still
merge. The striking and individual characteristics of the canon,
which leave it almost alone in the whole range, seem to be due to
the action, not of water, as we might expect, but of ice. The gla-
ciers which carved it took their origin, as they do the world over, in
these rock basins. Primarily, it may have been a fold in the crust,
as the other canons are, but to heavy and age-long glaciation are
ascribed the precipitous cliffs which constitute its greatest glory and
its most typical feature.
( )ne can follow the path of any glacier for a thousand miles, if
it goes so far, by the perpendicular paths it cuts in the mountains.
If the glacial action is of much magnitude, the "troughs" it leaves
are great abysses. Stream erosion, however, does not make gorges
except in solid rock or clay. In the Sierras especially, where the
ROAKIXC KlVKK lAI.I.S
140
OUT WEST
mountains are earthy — witness the grand forest which clothes them
literally to the summit — abrupt canons are a rarity. The glacial
cliffs of King's River canon, then, are doubly impressive, towering,
as they do, in a uniformly unscarped country ; the more so that they
stand out among gentle slopes and timbered ridges. Looking up at
them from within the canon, their majesty is enhanced by the forma-
tion of the floor itself — a level valley hemmed in with vertical crags
— and the whole dominated now and again by some scarred, towering
promontory. Even the shifting sunlight on the scored and fluted
heights — titanic witnesses of the vast advance of the glaciers — adds
"A Level Vallky Hemmed in with Vertical Cliffs "
new and majestic grandeur with every changing view. Where the
walls break down to the entrance of some side valley, a broader and
still grander view is opened, clear back among the amphitheatres and
cirques in the bases of the peaks and the eternal snowpeaks above —
the fastnesses whence the ancient glaciers came. In places, up the
moraine-strewn valleys, gleam the dying remnants, the final ruins,
of the old-time snow-fields, the great Quaternary neve. It is a mat-
ter of pleasing doubt whether the frowning cliffs of the canon, or the
vaster sweep of the snowy wilderness above, give the keeneer pleas-
ure, or the greater inspiration.
The first evidence of the glacial nature of the canon's formation
meets one where the trail enters. Here the river encounters the
KING'S RIVER CANON
141
The Highway of the Glaciers
first of a long series of moraines which choke the lower end. For
a descent of some 600 feet, the river, pouring over the conglom-
erate material deposited by the disappearing glacier of a former
period, churns itself into a mad whirl, gleaming like untrodden snow
among the cedars, which have advanced to cover the wreckage of
the ancient ice-river. Year by year the torrent has undone the
work of the glacier, until now it shows only in its broken and
troubled stream, the traces of the once mighty pile it surmounted.
Lower down, however, the massive piles of rubble and debris and
scoured and furrowed boulders have prevailed, and the clogged-up
canon of the stream is impassable. When the river next emerges
into view below, it is as a mild, willowed, plains-stream, with no hint
of the fury and headlong rush it exhibits in the wild mountain
gorges.
14 2
OUT WEST
"Shifting Sunlight on the Scored and Fluted Heights'
In its eastward course, toward the central peaks where the gla-
ciers first appeared and last disappeared, the canon walls become
steeper and steeper, the crags higher and higher. At the same time
the marks of the ice advance become more and more pronounced.
In places, the great cliffs tower to the magnificent height of 3,200
feet, or twice as high as the average of Yosemite. In the latter
place the bluffs are smooth — the result of local subsidence. Here
we see on every hand the scars of the warring forces of a bygone
age — in the scored and grooved rock composing the massive walls,
the carved and polished headlands, the smooth side-canons choked
with terminal and lateral moraines. The marks of the ice advance
become yet more distinct as we follow back its ruined path up the
higher levels of the canon and into the cirques of the great altitudes,
KING'S RIVER CANON
'43
" THK RlVKR li.NCOlNTKKS THE FIRST OF A LONG SERIES OF MORAIN1-S"
where the lonely peaks, bitten by frost and blanketed on their lower
slopes with eternal snow, tower up in solitary grandeur. It is pos-
sible to trace back step by step the dying action of the glacier, find-
ing up the whole length of the gorges an inverted succession of late
moraines on old and worn slides, where the disappearing ice released
the boulders and debris worn from the mountain-sides above.
It is among the gigantic amphitheatres of the peaks, however, that
we find the most stupendous relics of their reign. The cirque itself
is a great basin of vertical cliffy, sweeping around in a huge horse-
thoe of a mile or more. Why the incipient glacier carves such a
formation (or rather formations, for a dozen or more center about
the origin of a glacier) remains a mystery. When the gulf was
formed, however, and the glacier vanished, the action of the frosts
and wind crumbled away the sides until often only a weathered
â– 4+
OUT WEST
The Old Man of the Mountains "
"knife-edge" intervenes between one and the next, a precarious
footing for the invading student. Here the mighty forces of the
ancient winter made their final stand before the advance of sunny
recent epochs. The culminating moraine, close within the jaws of
the cliffs, is invariably a barrier of huge proportions, giving one the
impression of being part of the solid mountain beneath. The frayed
edges of the tempests which sweep into the basin behind collect in
a little steel-blue lakelet in the solid rock. It is a curious sensation
to look down upon it from the rim of the circling cliffs half a mile
above. In the clear, sharp air every stone and pebble — the naked
rock of the dizzy precipices, or the fringe of rubble fallen from
above — stands out insistently, as if painted. The motionless, chilly
tarn, gleaming alone in the vast wilderness of primeval rocks, seems
KING'S RIVER CANON
H5
unreal itself, like the memory, the wraith, of the vanished ice-river
of long ago. Far away above the level of the cirques tower still for
many hundred feet the great crags of the mountains proper — vast
piles of solid rock, with rags and patches of snow. Far and near
there is nothing to break the silent, frost-bitten repose of snow and
rock, rock and snow.
The view down the canon from the desolate altitudes (eleven or
twelve thousand feet) is almost astounding and quite beyond power
of pen to describe. The basin of the glacier appears as a mighty
gulf, gaping down through the heart of the heaving mountain
Rock and Snow, Snow and Rock "
shoulders, with mile-long rents and grooves of glacial sculpture, and
to mortal ken, bottomless, for the river on the floor is out of sight
and hearing. Overhead †” I am tempted to say around — is the va-
cant sky. Not a sound comes from below to echo on the frowning
brows of the hills and the empty vastness between. To quote Clar-
ence King, the godfather of this land of desolation: Something
there i« pathetic in the very emptiness of the old glacier valleys, these
imperishable tracks of vanished engines. I have never seen nature
when she seemed as little "Mother Nature" as in this place of rocks
and snow, echoes and emptiness. It seems the ruin of a by-gone
geological period, a specimen of chaos which has defied the finishing
hand of time."
Berkelt-y, Cal.
146
A BENEFACTOR OF THE STATE
By WILLIAM E. SMYTHE.
FOUND myself in Fresno, the center of the great Raisin
District, on a memorable clay four years ago last win-
ter. The day was memorable because it brought a crisis
in the affairs of thousands of small landed proprietors
who were trying to work out the great experiment of
brotherhood as applied to commercial affairs. They had developed
the raisin industry to undreamed-of proportions, alike in the matter of
quality and quantity. But the problem of selling their product to
the best advantage — which is the problem of realizing the highest
standard of living for the masses on the soil — was unsolved. For
years they had been struggling to prove that it is better for men to
work in co-operation than in competition — better for men to work
with each other than against each other. They had known periods
of high hope, which were followed by periods of failure and gloom.
They had learned by bitter experience that the individual grower i**
no match for the packing house, the commission-man, the banker,
and the railroad. They had learned that only organized and asso-
ciated man can hope to hold his own in the struggle for existence
with the wealth represented by these other necessary factors in get-
ting their valuable crops to market. But how could they realize their
dream of solidarity? While everything went well they joyously
pulled together; when things went ill they quickly fell into contend-
ing factions, and their contentions were shrewdly encouraged by
the interests which desired to exploit them.
The day of which I speak was memorable because it was to wit-
ness the fall of a leader from his place of power. M. Theo. Kearney
had been the Strong Man of the situation. He was by far the most
extensive producer, as he was also in every sense the man of largest
affairs. Under his leadership the industry had known days of riot-
ous prosperity, but under his leadership, also, it had known days of
loss, disappointment, and resulting hardship. In prosperous times
his star shone resplendent in the Fresno sky, but when prices fell
below the point of profit, when goods accumulated in the warehouse,
when the burden of debt pressed heavily on the producers, his star
went low down toward the horizon, and was finally obscured by
black clouds of criticism, of recrimination, and even of hatred. Then
men cursed him for a fool or a knave, or a vicious compound of both.
The day of which I write saw thousands of raisin-growers coming
into Fresno to meet at Armory Hall and give formal expression to
their dissatisfaction and distrust. All believed him incompetent,
many believed him dishonest and in league with the enemies of the
producers for the deliberate purpose of coining wealth for himself
through the betrayal of his neighbors. Some said he would not dare
A BENEFACTOR OF THE STATE
H7
to face the storm, but would sneak away and hide his diminished
head.
I had known Kearney for years as an enthusiastic champion of co-
operation. Naturally, I believed in him. His own interests were so
large that he could have got along without the growers much better
than they could get along without him, and it seemed to me that if
he were governed by the lower selfishness, rather than the higher,
M. Theo. Kearney
he would all along have stood with the packers against the growers
and thus made sure of his own prosperity, while lending a powerful
influence to the demoralization of the co-operators. This had not
been his policy. He had fought the battle of the whole and taken
his chances with the rest, instead of shrewdly allying himself with
the powerful interests who opposed the organization of the pro-
ducers. At least, he had done this if his professions were genuine,
and if he were guiltless of secret collusion with "the enemy."
If there was a man in Fresno who believed that Kearney was a
'+8 OUT WEST
lover of his fellows on this gray day of which I write, that man was
mute. Surely he was not in evidence in the hotel lobbies, in the
throngs along the sidewalks, nor in the multitude who crowded into
the big hall as the time for the meeting drew near. There was not
one word in the newspapers or in the air which expressed faith in
the head of the Association. There may have been a few people who
hesitated to denounce him as disloyal, but the conviction of his in-
competency or cold-blooded selfishness was universal.
An hour before the meeting, Kearney drove up to the Hughes
Hotel, and I think mine was about the only hand that gave his a
really cordial grasp. I was a mere spectator with no unsold raisins
staked upon the issue, and could afford to indulge in the luxury of
believing in an old friend when he was under fire. Moreover, my
father told me long ago to "stand up for the under dog," and there
was no question as to who represented the under dog on this occa-
sion. I went aside with Kearney, told him he was marked for over-
whelming defeat on this critical day, and advised him to bow grace-
fully to the storm. "Don't make the speech you have prepared, % I
said to him. "Say only a few words to the effect that you have
fought for these people to the best of your ability, that the future
will vindicate your contention about the necessity of having the
growers own the packing-houses in order to control the situation,
that you recognize the hopeless unpopularity of your position, and
will therefore resign."
He thanked me for the advice, but declared that he was right and
would not retreat. He said he could have made sure of his own pros-
perity by turning his back on the growers and allying himself with
the other interests, and that he could do so now, but that he intended
to persist in his course, regardless of consequences. He assured me
that he was absolutely loyal to the growers, that nothing was so near
his heart as to secure for Fresno and its people a high and abiding
prosperity, and that the day would surely come when those who now
reviled him would rise up and call him blessed. I did not know
what he meant, but supposed his idea was that events would prove
that he was right in demanding that co-operation should go forward,
and acquire a stronger and larger control, rather than go backward
and be satisfied with less.
The great hall was crowded when the time for the meeting arrived,
and President Kearney took the gavel. If ever a man looked upon
a sea of unfriendly faces, he did so as he began to speak. His ad-
dress contained no word of apology, no suggestion of departing from
the course he had advocated. But in all that audience there was no
one to applaud, while there were many to hiss and shout angry ques-
tions. Every suggestion of dissatisfaction or distrust which came
from the floor was enthusiastically cheered. The meeting resulted
A BENEFACTOR OF THE STATE i4q
in crushing defeat for everything Kearney wanted, as all knew
must be the case, but Kearney himself was not crushed. Proud,
arrogant, arbitrary (as his enemies charged) he was never more so
than when he walked out of the hall with shouts of derision ringing
in his ears. I shall never forget him as he drove through the streets
of Fresno that afternoon to go to his lordly ranch. He sat on the
high seat of his spider phaeton, holding the reins over a nobby span,
the long-lashed fashionable whip in his hand, and looked disdainfully
upon the plain people who lined the sidewalks — the very picture of
a scornful aristocrat defying the populace. I asked myself : ''Can
it be true that Kearney loves these people and is fighting their battle
in good faith?"
Much has happened in the four years that have since elapsed, and
events have largely justified Kearney's views. I do not want to
speak of that, however, at this time, but of something far more
significant, far more conclusive, in revealing the character of the
man and his attitude towards his fellows.
It was Mr. Kearney's habit to go abroad every year and take the
baths at a famous German resort. His neighbors said this was only
more evidence of his self-indulgence — that he always went awav when
he might accomplish some good at home in order to hobnob with
millionaires. He was a big, stalwart man in appeal ance and no one
thought him really ill. "He goes over there to soak his head," a
prominent raisin grower explained to me. Democracy distrusts the
man who flits annually to Europe at the fashionable time of the year,
but perhaps Kearney knew his condition better than his critics.
He sailed again last May. Just as his ship reached the Irish coast,
he was found dead in his stateroom. It seems, after all, that he
was not the healthy man he appeared to be, so that there was a rea-
son for his annual sojourn at Bad Nauheim.
In due time, his will was opened in San Francisco, and lo ! M.
Theo. Kearney had left his entire fortune, amounting to nearly a
million dollars, for the benefit — of whom? Of the raisin growers
of Fresno. Every dollar which he had made in his life-time was
dedicated to the purpose of solving the problems of the raisin in-
dustry in order that the men who had distrusted and reviled him,
together with their children and their children's children, might re-
alize a higher standard of living and go from prosperity to prosperity.
I )< nth revealed the heart of the lover.
Who, now, believes that Kearney was selfish, cold-blooded, dis-
loyal to his ncighl>ors? Who will deny that he was a true friend of
co-operation, a genuine lover of his fellow men ? He made mistakes,
of course. He was not a saint by any means. He was haughty and
impatient of opposition to a degree which sometimes seemed intol-
erable. But on that black day when his fellows denounced him with
i5<
OUT WEST
unmeasured bitterness he was perfectly calm because he knew that
in a very short time he would be understood. "The day will come
when they will rise up and call me blessed." Perhaps the day has not
yet come — perhaps people are saying that his magnificent bequest
is only another evidence of his vanity, and that even in death he was
bound to assert his personality in an effort to dominate the life of
Fresno. I beg to differ with such criticism now, as I instinctively
differed with it four years ago. The newspaper account says :
"Mr. Kearney died in May, while on his way to Europe. His
beneficent purposes had been unknown not only to the community,
but to the University of California (which is to handle the estate) as
well."
Unknown to the community, unknown to the University, but not
unknown to the man who snapped his whip at the sullen crowds
that winter day as he drove out to "Fruit Vale" and looked lovingly
upon the beautiful estate of 5,400 acres. "There are 3,000 acres in
alfalfa, 1,200 acres in vineyard, hundreds of acres in citrus and
deciduous fruit trees of many varieties, ornamental grounds of more
than 200 acres in extent, containing a wonderful variety of trees,
shrubs and flowers, a fine dwelling which cost $20,000, and a com-
plete equipment of excellent packing-houses, shops, stables, poultry
yards, and other farm buildings and appurtenances. The value of
the bequest is between $800,000 and $900,000."
All this is left to the people — to the very people who refused to be-
lieve in him, to sustain him, to follow him !
No one can possibly estimate the value of the legacy to California
in the long years of the future. It will enrich unborn millions, for
it is to be used — this land and money, these facilities, and the expert
ability which they will enlist in the struggle for human progress —
to demonstrate the highest possibilities of our California soil and
climate and to work out, patiently, persistently, regardless of time or
expense, the problem of happiness for the masses of men.
No wonder Kearney could wait for his vindication. He had it
within his power to strike the critics dumb by giving such an ex-
hibition of social love and social service as few men have been priv-
ileged to give. And proudly he did it ! His is a tremendous con-
tribution to that better, greater, and nobler California of which the
lovers dream.
San Diego, Cal.
â– 5 1
SUMMER in the: mountains
By VIRGINIA GARLAND.
HESE are the days supreme; fulfillment of perfect
Summer nights, of dawns transcendent, of heat sur-
charged, unstinting, unsparing, fervid, splendid,
complete.
It is a bird which gives wings to my awakening,
which lifts from me the heaviness of sleep — a bird singing in the
dawning. Swiftly I climb an upland trail, breasting the gossamer
strands stretched across, so fresh and unentered is my path —
the same trail I came down last night, but leading each day to
new and yet-to-be-discovered heights.
A thick, dense stream of fog follows the river below. The
prick of the mist melts on my cheek. Great boughs are dripping,
clasping the fog. The solid rise of mountains above are wiped
out; tree tops swim, unburdened of their trunks, lifted, floating
in mist. Silver grasses plumed in an aura of dew. Everywhere
the happy holding of moisture.
Were we laved oftener in these morning mists, would we not
catch the cool essence of the green kin, and drink, too, all night
with these, — unfaltering, unchilled, rejuvenated?
It is the Grosbeak singing. Clasping the swaying tip of a
spruce-spire, he swings in a dim, grey world. About him the
fog drifts in wisping tangles, caught in the branches ; but there is
no fear of fog in his happy throat. His caroling spurs at the
air, rings through the grey in golden sound.
The eastern ridge, rising sheer from the river, is not the eastern
ridge, nor does it rise from the river. A strange land is hung
there, dropped from some mysterious source, sprung from a fresh,
vaporous play of creation. What cannot be done with mists, trees,
rocks, steeps, shadows, before the day ! Caverns are sunk that
go through and far beyond the mountain ; heights are there which
tower vastly in a restricted space. The voice of the real river
is muffled and faint, giving ghostly sound to running mist-cata-
racts above — long, falling cascades, vaporous torrents which the
light will drink in one sunny lift. Rhine castles made of jagged,
dead trees ; bleak land in rising angles, blocked in. Dark cliffs
of shadow; fierce, rolling tree-rounded rivers between. Weird
pictures, forms that are nowhere but in fleeting mists, upheld a
moment, swept down the valley.
The sun brims the ridge; long bolts of light break up the shad-
ows; I know my trees and thicket-slopes and rocks again. A
blood-red glow about the madrono; dark green spirals ascending
the outstanding shafts of redwoods ; pale green light enfolding
152 OUT WEST
the tan-oaks. I name them all softly, and send a morning greet-
ing across the canon.
;js % ;jj % ^c * =fc
The sun is high ; the tinnient whine of the cicada trails through
the air in unceasing sibilance. The heat pushes into the moun-
tain-gorge in great pulsations that find no way out. On baked
stones the lizards are elate, lifting, lowering, lifting, lowering, or
warming their scaled coldness, relaxed, prone, in the hottest
places.
From the sun-stippled shade of sultry woods comes the bland
song of the Barlow Chickadee ; that small, seldom-heard, con-
tented ripple, which in rare moods the bird intersperses into the
lisping of his name. In tune with the palpitant heat, the Pileo-
lated Warbler keeps up a spurt of monotonous song. A yellow
butterfly drifts listlessly, catches at a leaf, hangs with closed
wings in the brazen sunlight. A brilliant tarantula-wasp vi-
brates angrily over the hot ground where its prey is hiding.
Blighting, hard blue in the sky — burning blue where there should
be shadows. The ripened leaves of the madrono hang like heavy
fruit in the erect, polished green. Far down the smooth, red
body of the tree the old bark curdles, crinkles off in brown scales,
leaving bright splashes of color to grow up into the copper-red
limbs. A crackling passage of air runs up under the bark of the
redwood, slipping it off in long, thick shreds. The eastern ridge
is not good to look upon. Where have the trees gone? Un-
shadowed they shrink into background. Bare gashes of rocked
soil burn out, strike at the sight. A furnaced bulwark of land,
taking up too much space.
Hot breathlessness ! The trees standing calm, uncomplaining,
listening, intent for the afternoon breeze. And down the moun-
tain comes at last the revelling summer wind, that in the midday
hours had gone no man knows whither. It strikes full on a
wooded slope, swirling the trees into tumbling masses ; rushes
against the redwood, pressing down an immense bough that
springs again and swings the whole tree circling. Then the wind
is everywhere ; stealing up under branches ; mastering and mov-
ing mighty boles ; tempering its breath to tug at a thistle-seed ;
making gurgling dashes into the chestnut-oaks ; pushing against
the riffles of the brook; twirling a grass-blade merrily; fingering
a harebell softly; breaking the spell of the heat; blowing up
motion, activity, joy.
Where it comes from, its far-off skyey source, I cannot know ;
but what the wind passed, in its journey down the mountain, it
shall tell to me. This is a message from the yerba buena, where
it trails aromatic, in shady tangles by the spring. This is the
SUMMER IN THE MOUNTAINS >53
odorous breath of spirea, given reluctantly. A sudden onslaught
the summer breeze must have made in its thickets to carry its
perfume away ; for the spirea treasures its all to give to the wind
of the night. That, I fancy, was the crisped memory of azalea ;
some last blossom, perhaps, throwing its farewell fragrance to
the breeze. Now is the tang of fennel, wafted up from dusty
roadside, meeting the balm of heal-all wandering down from high
ravines. There has been long loitering with the winey spice-
bush. This is the stimulant spirit of spikenard, the ginseng that
grows in the West, of whose steeped uplift all Orient lands have
learned to use. I do not brew a drink of its -twisted root, nor
mix an ointment of its flower, but I drink deeply, nevertheless,
of the whole plant — know well its healing magic on heart and
brain.
And so, one may inbreathe a spruce bough ; the hazel's witch-
ery ; the elder's panicles ; a pine branch ; a bay leaf, or the hundred
unfamed mints and salvias which our western winds play over.
*******
Pulpy shadows hide the braided bark of one redwood ; another
beside it is struck with a long shaft of light that seems to come
from within as well as from without, every crevice and crack
sending forth tiny beams of response. Midnight gloom of forest
depths; dazzling splotches of sunlight through an opening; piled
up, palpable, heaped, blue hazes ; vistas where green and gold
lights mingle.
I know a canon cool and deep; a rivulet-threaded dip in the
hills. Heat burns over it, paces along with the fringe of lilacs
beside it, falters and turns aside by the brim of the brook. By
Woodwardias and sword-ferns the scorched air is waved away;
dampened with mosses ; lulled by the drip and run of the water.
The dreaming gloom is starred with umbrils of mist-maidens —
delicate saxifrages. The wild ginger droops to the water. A
furtive wing winnows up stream, flashes down past me. The
bird lights on the brim to drink.
*******
The blue of the sky is softened ; the voice of river and brook
rises higher; the swell of the wind in the trees is more distinct.
The evening change has fallen. A Russet Thrush whistles in the
thicket, one tentative call note, just trying the air if it be of the
right timbre to receive his evening song. An upward, slurred,
questioning note — a long silence — the note again — not yet will
he sing. He waits for the quiet, for lengthened shades to creep
from the trees. Then the slurred note again, a trickling bell
tone after. I cannot see the bird, but I know he lifts his throat
to the long light, clasps his twig more firmly and peals his music
i 5 + OUT WEST
forth. Few are the hearts that can feel and express as well as
he the glory of the earth-beauty.
Four balanced, rocking, resonant chimes, and he lets the rest
take care of themselves. Up the canon they go, floating higher
and sweeter; break against the mossy walls; waver to a close.
Perhaps he hears them soar higher, echo longer, with his bird
ears ; for there is always a pause before he rings the first rich
notes again. I have seen him turn his head, look up, as if he saw
the airy sounds melting and disappearing.
:js ^c ^ ^ :je ^c j|c
The wile of the twilight closes down. The sinuous toils of the
dusk fall in shadowy circlings. The dark comes furling in.
Faint, intermittent light of fireflies passes, fluttering, seeking.
The large steady light of waiting, female glow-worms studs the
roadsides, burns through the dark. The spent, undefined frag-
rance of night goes up to the twitching stars.
Sometimes, that I may love my mountains the more, I leave
them awhile for the lowlands and the river-road that runs down
the narrow valley. Warm little fields are here; open, humble
farmsteads stretching with, nestling into, the hills. At four in
the morning, a diaphanous world — part of it passive, dreaming,
turning towards its deeper sleep; part of it passive, dreaming,
stirring to its quick awakening. Ranks of great yellow night-
blooming primrose, wide open still, but standing so hushed and
remote you know their spirit has fled in sleep. And wait ! a
musky petal droops slowly; another comes down; one by one
the flowers close, to hang all day in lax yellow. A sparrow
slips from its nest in the grass, clears its throat with a morning
trill, goes about its breakfast. A velvet moth drifts sleepily into
the shrubbery. The silent wing of an owl seeking its hollow
tree. A blithe lark, whirring up from its form in the meadow.
Somewhere in the sky the cold sparkle of a star; then I cannot
find it again. Quiet fields of corn; pale gold of hillocked hay-
fields, new-mown, damp, fragrant. Steep vineyards meeting the
hills, dark and heavy with oaks and night-shadows which have
lingered there. A lasso of mellow music whips out on the air.
This is what I have come to hear — the song of the meadow lark.
High mountain thickets for the thrasher, bosky ravines for the
thrush, but the lark must have meadow space to throw the coil
of his music ; he must hear it echo up and down the valley. He
wants no trees in his way to entangle his melody. He must
catch back the last joyous swing of it, to whip out again and
again.
Before I am aware, I have taken ten miles at a draught, swal-
TO THE MEXICAN IMMIGRANT 155
lowed, absorbed them as fast as my feet will travel, my eager
eyes rove over — and must traverse weary miles back in the high
sun over the same road, but an altered world. Hard hills; hot
hayfields ; staring country folk ; shade-withholding trees ; unheard
birds ; slack and tired nerves. My body is cross and unheeding,
but my soul has closed over the undefiled early hours. In sere
and poor moments I shall have the rich heart-beats spent and
inspired alone with the dawn — wealth no man can take from me.
By November fires I shall set spark to summer reveries with the
golden, smoky mist that rose from yellow hayfields; with the
snarled light caught in the spider's silver, swung between stalks
of blossoming tansy ; with all the warm grey fire of this summer
morn. For our wintering and our summering are empty spans
if they fail of open-sky memories, carried over from each season,
intertwined, interchanged.
Of. $ $ if. £ $ ^
Oh, the fragrance of an early summer morning! No perfume
so enduring and so pure; the incensed birth of rhythmic morn
outlasting the hills. The twilight fragrance is heavier, redolent
of the life and pleasure of the long day; but the dawning breath
is so young, so sweet, so expectant, so vague and wondering. The
starlight has brushed it in its sleep; the sky has bent over; all
night the universe has brooded.
In the outside world of men the day will open to grief and
joy, to battles lost and won, to evil triumphant, to good victorious.
Here in the quiet hills the birth and the sleep comes and goes
untroubled. The mighty Change evolves, unquestioned, inevitable,
serene.
Brookdale, Santa Cruz.
TO THE: MEXICAN IMMIGRANT
By ARTHUR B. BENNETT
INCE first I knew the joy of Life beneath this balmy sky,
And touch of gentle com'radrie toward what is still
this I —
The songs I sing within myself for comfort on the way
Are what he sings sometimes o' nights, whate'er his
jest by day.
For ah, the eyes he loved for long, those self-same eyes I knew ;
The word I know to stir his soul, times past has stirred me, too ;
The vales, the plains, the hills he loves, sweet breaths from outer sea,
Have borne alike the breath of Life, as unto him, to me.
So who like I can know the heart that throbs within his breast ?
However skilled he think himself to hide that heart by jest,
When clanks the great machinery of gods of land afar,
Where, bent to unfamiliar task, my dark-eyed brothers are.
For ah, the stranger's heart I had, long, long in his own land,
But tender word they ever spake, with gentle look and hand ;
So served they God who made them. Send some kindred spell
Be on our race, on mine own race, to deal with stranger well.
Ban Diego, Cal.
156
HERMIT HAGAN
By R. C. PITZER.
ELL, how's it going?" Doddridge asked across the talk-
ing camp-fire.
Lorin shaded his eyes with a sun-burned hand, and
peered into the dusk. "Great," he said slowly; "I've
read a lot about it, but I never thought it'd be as
scrumptuous as this. Why, I don't want to go back again, ever. I'd
never get enough of it. The pines, and the water, and the sharp air !
Things talk to you ! Something catches your throat ; your heels dig
down in the needles, and your head's drunk with pure joy of being
here. It's the feel of the air — no, it isn't, either. It's the sense of being
free, maybe ; the smell of the pines, and the wet, earthy feeling, you
know. It's just everything. It's getting home again. I could never
have been a stranger to all this."
He rolled over on his blankets, and the pine boughs under him
sagged and crackled. "I can't tell the feeling," he continued dream-
ily, as he dug pebbles out of the loamy earth beside him and tossed
them into the twilight. "It's beyond words. Only, I feel as if
this" — he waved his hand — "had always been this way, and I had
always been part of it. I know, now, what it was that used to grip
me in the Spring, and make me sick for a change. It was this. I
wanted to come home to it."
Doddridge laughed, and choked as the wind changed for an in-
stant and shot a puff of bitter smoke into his lungs. "It's the real
thing, all right," he answered, "and I'm glad you're satisfied. It
took me two years to get out from the coast, but we're on a big hunt
at last, and, Man ! I'll show you things ! You've seen your last town
for a good long month, unless you get tired "
Lorin snorted indignantly, but did not reply. Doddridge left his
sentence unfinished, and a long silence settled over the camp. The
breeze whispered in the pines overhead, an unseen brook kept up a
clear tinkling and murmuring, and now and again bushes rustled,
stones slipped and struck together, a dead tree cracked, or two leaning
pines creaked in unison. The air was sharp with snow, and the
heavy scent of pine and spruce clung to the nostrils. Overhead the
stars were coming out in the grey sky, and under the trees the red
camp-fire leaped and danced, throwing sparks high into the dusk.
A burro stiffly hobbled across the flat below the camp, its deep bell
booming as the fore-feet rose and fell together. Another bell re-
plied in the timber and a horse snorted.
"Stock's getting nervous," Doddridge commented, as he sat up
straight. "Coming up nearer the fire. Must be something in the
woods, I guess."
HERMIT HAG AN 157
Lorin moved somewhat nervously and fumbled beneath his glaring
Navajo blanket. His hand touched chilly steel and his face lighted
up with a new fire. He felt in himself a strange power, and looked
out, half anxious, half impatient, nervously hoping that a new ex-
perience was coming out of the darkness.
"O-hoo!" cried a voice, suddenly, and both men sprang to their
feet, Lorin's rifle being dragged up from beneath the blanket.
"Ho-00!" Doddridge cried. "Hello, out there! Come up and
palaver."
"Comin'," the voice responded. "Got a dawg?"
"No dog." Then, to Lorin : "Shove that thirty-thirty under cover,
Harry. This isn't 1864, quite. He's a prospector. Camped some-
where near, probably; saw the fire, and came over to swap lies. If
he's the real thing," Doddridge dropped his voice lower, "you'll be
hearing things before long. They're a wild breed — and interesting.
But don't be surprised if he chucks sulphur on the fire."
"Lorin nodded, and peered with growing interest. "I see him,"
he said. "That dark patch there, isn't he? Why doesn't he come
on?"
"Sa-ay," said the voice in the dusk, "guess I'd better sorter pre-
pare you men. I ain't in evenin' dress. Don't go to pluggin' me
for a ghost or a guy."
"Eh?" Doddridge answered. "What's up? Why, bless me —
oh, good Lord!"
The figure rapidly advanced, and there steeped into the firelight
a tall, raw-boned man, hairy and red, whose bare, furred legs and
arms stuck out and waved beneath a dirt-colored shirt. Another
look, and the campers saw that their visitor was clothed in gunny-
sacks.
"Kind-a loony lookin', ain't I?" said the newcomer, showing his
black teeth in a propitiatory grin. "But I'm clear as a bell," he
tapped his head. "I'm a — a-doin' penance." He laughed nervously
and passed the back of his hand across his mouth. His filmy eyes
had been wandering unseeingly up and down the new clothes of the
men before him ; but as he looked at Lorin's fancy mining-boots,
the film suddenly faded. A fierce light sprang up from his soul, and
he swiftly glanced at the surprised faces.
"Well!" he exclaimed, with a sigh of relief. "Why, you ain't
prospectors ! You're towrists !" Laughter flashed into his face, and
he fell back against a tree.
"Where in the devil'd you come from?" Doddridge asked in
wonder.
The man jerked his thumb over his shoulder, and straightened up
with an effort. "Never heard o' me?" he asked. "I'm one o' the
sights out here. All the towrists come out fr'm Sulphuretta just
'5 8 OUT WEST
to gas with me. I'm a hermit. Joey Hagan — that's me. Got a
cave in that hill over yonder — Hagan's Hill."
"Crazy," Lorin whispered, half interrogatively, as he nudged his
friend.
Doddridge nodded. "Never heard of you, Mr. Hagan," he said
politely. "Squat down on the blankets there. Smoke?"
"Smoke?" Hagain echoed. "I guess yes, if y' got a extree pipe.
My principles don't allow no pipe in my cave, so I don't smoke
'ceptin' when folks come to rubber. Don't allow myself no drink,
neither."
Lorin reached under his saddle — placed for a pillow — and brought
out a silver flask, while Doddridge filled a pipe.
"Here," Lorin said; "drink, man. A hermit! You live out here
all alone — in a cave — with no clothes but sacking — why, why !"
He bent forward eagerly. "Oh, it's out of a book," he cried to
Doddridge. "This isn't the Western Divide ; it isn't America. Man,
those hills over there are the Pennine Alps. This is the fourteenth
century. It's all out of Boccaccio. In a minute he'll tell us the story
of his life — was it your wife?" he demanded. "Or whose wife?
Which story is it? Do you keep her head in a flower-pot?"
Hagan's eyes grew round, and he leaned towards Doddridge.
"Hey?" he whispered, loudly. "Is he guyin'? Oh, I see. You're
his nurse, maybee ? Poor devil ! No ? What's he talkin' about,
then ?"
Doddridge made a feint of whispering behind an outspread hand.
"He's an artist," he told the hills. "They all go off like that. At the
best, they're not responsible, you know. Take a drink."
"That," said Hagan with a long sigh, "is whisky ! You're a bird,
pardner. Must-a cost somethin' — that stuff." He glanced at the
pack-boxes and sighed. "Whisky," he continued, "allers makes my
mouth water for civilized grub. I don't allow myself no luxuries —
live on flap-jacks an' sow-belly mostly; kill-um-quick bread, an'
such."
"Acorns and berries !" Lorin murmured. "Wild fruits of the
forest ! Devotional gifts of the peasantry ! A cask of wine hidden
under the straw, pullets and chitterlings overhead in the dark !
Acorns and manna!"
Hagan stared. "Say, pardner," he said, "this here's the Leather
Pants Minin' District. They ain't no oak trees out here, ain't nothin'
but pines, pines, pines, with a bit o' aspen an' cottonwood in the
hollers. What's chitter — chitterlungs ?"
"Chitterlungs," Doddridge answered, "are things that grow in
Rabelais and Boccaccio. Niggers eat them."
"Oh, that Bocasso is a place?"
"Yes, a pretty big place. Top-notcher. Here's a bit of grub, if
HERMIT HAG AN 159
you're hungry — bacon and trout left over from supper. Wade in."
"Wade? Well, I guess!" Hagan did "wade in," as only a fam-
ished man can. His jaws clicked with mechanical regularity, as he
bolted his food. At last he sank back with a long sigh.
"There," he said, "I'm stocked up till the next towrists come.
Much obliged. A man," he continued half apologetically, "who's
wunst lived in luxury can't get over a mouth-waterin' when good
things is near."
"But your vows?" Lorin inquired. "How about your vows, Dom
Hagan? No, I'm not cursing you. But there, the flesh must have
its little day. Acorns and — er — sow-belly will mortify the spirit.
Take another pull at the Falernian, father, and begin the novel. 'I
was born ' " he prompted.
"In Gawd knows where," Hagan began, comprehendingly. "I
growed there an' elsewhere — elsewhere mostly — an' hit the hills a
kid. Got tired o' hikin', an' so turned hermit, makin' my livin' by
exhibitin' my legs to towrists."
"For the love of their holy lordships," Lorin murmured, "and a
poor man's prayers. By the living God ! 'tis a gold Florence ! May
you excellency follow Elijah. Conjuro vos omnes, spiritus maligni.
Nothing personal."
Doddridge laughed. "Go on with your story," he said to Hagan.
"You've left out all the thrills."
"Who was she ?" Lorin demanded again. "Fiametta? Griselda?"
"Her name was Maggie." Hagan clasped his arms over his dirty
knees and stared into the fire. "Met her in a dance-hall down in
Sulphuretta."
"We'll call her that," Lorin interjected. "Go on. Sulphuretta of
the Nimble Feet."
"An' fingers. She was a lu-lu. Me an' her hitched up, an' by-m-
by her First come along. He drilled out o' that burg hell-for-
breakfast, me hikin' along an' guardin' his flanks. We mixed up an'
got chawed pritty considerable. Mag, she come by an' lit into me.
I was out o' the game — cashed in an' quit. Didn't do no more
minin' — what was the use? An' I make better stakes here, anyhow."
"No invention," Lorin sighed. "Naked facts. Why didn't you
dress her up, Dom Hagan ?"
"Hey? She had a plenty o' clothes. Got her a bran' new red
velvet skirt, an' she took it along. Rings, too — jooled — di'monds
an' a sapphir. Gold watch," he continued, slowly pursing his lips;
"letterin' all over it; ostrich-plume hat, them fancy lace lingers —
shirts, sabef Silk stockins, trunks full "
"Hold on!" Doddridge interrupted. "House and lot, eh? Flor-
entine villa? Venetian palace? Any old masters?"
"Well, maybe not all them, but I done myself proud, now I tell
160 OUT WEST
you." He yawned. "I hate to go back to that dam cave," he
grunted. "Gets pritty cold o' nights, an' I hain't got no blankets
nor clothes to keep warm in. Wouldn't do. Towrists 'ud spot 'em,
an' my bus'ness 'ud go to smash."
"Take another drink," Doddridge said, shortly. "The alcohol '11
keep you warm. Good-night."
"S'long, pardners. See you in the mornin'." He stumbled out
into the darkness, and the two men looked at each other and
snickered.
"Fraud?" Lorin suggested.
"Certainly. At first I thought him crazy. It's quite a dodge, if
enough tourists get up into this part of the country. Come to think
of it, Sulphuretta has something of a reputation as a health-resort
now, and a summer hotel was built last year. Must pay well, eh?"
Lorin nodded. "Mediaeval," he mused. "It was worth the whisky.
Ah-hoo! I'm sleepy. Suppose we turn in."
The fire burned low, slowly fell in on itself and glowed red under
the shes. The stars stole across the sky, the wind rose and fell, and
the voices of night and the forest now spoke, and now were silent.
Lorin awoke and peered out from beneath his blankets. He shivered
as the sharp air struck him, and scrambled up to replenish the fire.
As he stood gazing out into the black forest, the spirit of the silence
and the stars fell upon Kim. He was possessed with an exultant
melancholy. He was all sensation, devoid of thought, drinking in
the strange beauy of a night in the wilderness.
In the distance a low clatter broke out, retreating as he listened.
Turning, he saw Doddridge sitting up.
"Sounds like a horse," Lorin said. "Could one of ours get out of
its hobbles?"
Doddridge suddenly sprang to his feet with an oath. "My rifle!"
he cried.
"W-what?"
"Where's your clothes?" Doddridge bellowed. "That fellow's
rustled our horses. He's off in your clothes, with my rifle — and a
pack-saddle, too — see ? Good Lord ! What fools !" He tore his
hair.
Lorin solemnly turned and pulled a local paper from one of the
pack-boxes. "Alas !" he sighed.
"Dammit all, let's do something!" Doddridge fumed. "Oh, the
pirate ! We'll have to walk !"
" 'Lank Joe Casey,' " Lorin read in funeral accents, " 'broke jail
Monday morning. The boys were planning a pine picnic, but he
fooled them. Lank Joe is as slippery as an eel. Marshal Wilders
thought he had him safe, for he locked Joey up in the jail, and took
Joey's clothes home to the Wilders' residence. The marshal still
has the clothes. If Joey meets any tourists before he's caught, we
will get the cheap reputation of owning a wild man in these parts.
Better get out, boys, and round him up before he shocks anybody's
feelings.' "
Lorin dropped the paper. "Yes," he mused, "thirteen something;
Pennine Alps, and all the rest of it. Damn Sulphuretta — Dom
Hagan, I mean."
Denver, Colo.
i6i
ORLEANS INDIAN LEGENDS
By MEI.CENA BURNS DENNY
II.
THE LEGEND OF THE AN-O-HOS
NE day, at the time when the Weasel, An-o-hos, was
still a man, he began to think that he was tired of
always staying in one place. So he told himself
that he would start out and see the world.
Accordingly, he put a lot of arrows in his quiver,
took his bow, and started out. The adventures of the Weasel
would make a fair-sized book, as books go nowadays. But here
are a few of them : ,
First, he walked and walked till he was out of his own
country. Then he began to watch sharp.
Pretty soon he saw smoke. He walked up to it, and found
a wigwam. Inside a man was sitting.
"Where are you going?" asked the man.
"Oh, I'm just going along this way."
"You'll get killed," replied the man.
"How? Who will kill me?"
Then the Indian told him of an old man who made lumber.
No one was ever known to get by him. He caught people in
the crack in the log his wedge made, and that was the last ever
seen of them.
"Don't go that way. Come in and rest a while before you
go back," urged his informer.
But the Weasel left the wigwam and went on toward the place
where the old man made his lumber. Soon he came to a rat's
house. He tore down the house, caught the rat, put it into his
quiver with his arrows, and started on.
Pretty soon he saw the old man making lumber. He stopped
to watch.
"Come see how I do it," said the lumberman affably.
So the Weasel drew near and watched him.
This is the way the old man made lumber. He selected a
fine straight log, drove in his wedge, and hammered it down
with his stone hammer until the log split. Then he put in the
wedge again, always splitting from the middle, till he had
reduced the log to boards.
While the Weasel was watching, the old lumberman suddenly
seized him and threw him into the yawning crack. But the
Weasel was ready for it and leaped clear through. But he left
his rat in the crack.
i6z OUT WEST
The lumber-maker pulled out the wedge and went dancing
for joy. He put his head under the log and saw a drop of blood
oozing out, and then he went dancing the more.
"I kill everybody ! I kill all the people ! There will be no
one left alive !" he sang, dancing and clapping his hands. Suddenly
he turned around. There stood the Weasel.
"What are you making all this joy about?" asked the Weasel.
"Oh," whined the lumber-maker, "I was dancing for sad-,
ness ! I thought another man had fallen into my crack."
"Well," said the Weasel, taking the wedge, "I did fall in,
but I fell clear through. You can see if you can do as well."
"I don't want to. I am too old !" begged the lumber-maker.
"An old man ought to know how. Get ready now !"
"Oh, I am too old !" whimpered the old man, holding back.
But the Weasel took hold of him and threw him in, and then
pulled out the wedge. He looked all about and underneath.
There was not even a single drop of blood, the lumber-maker
was so dried up. Pretty soon, though, he heard a little voice
in the log singing, "I like to stay here !"
"Yes, you stay there," said the Weasel. "You be that kind!"
And he changed him into the white, flat-headed larva that the
Indians call Oup-am-owan, the wood-eater. "Always be white
and old, and always have the flat head, mashed between the
logs. No one need fear you any more !"
So the wood-eater the old man has ever since been, and one
can still find him, creeping about in the heart of rotten logs.
When An-o-hos, the Weasel, had killed the old man, he went
on, farther into the new country. Soon he saw another smoke
and another wigwam. He stopped, and inside were sitting three
people.
"Come in," they said hospitably. "Where are you going?"
"Oh, I'm just going along this way to see the new country."
"Don't go that way. You'll get killed.
"Who will kill me?"
So they told the Weasel of a family of bad people that lived
further along, who always sent their guests to fish, with spears
that had pitch on the handles, so that when they speared the
fish they couldn't let loose of the handle, and the fish always
pulled them in and drowned them.
"Rest a while before you go back again," they concluded, "for
you surely will not go on. No one has ever escaped the fish."
But the Weasel went on, and soon he came to the house where
the bad people lived. They were very glad to see him, and
asked him to come in. He went in and talked till it was time
THE LEGEND OF THE AN-O-HOS 163
to eat. Then they asked him to go down to the stream and
spear a fish.
"The spears are outside the door," they said.
Now, the Weasel took dirt and put it on the handle of a spear
so it wouldn't stick, and went down to spear a fish. Soon he
saw a great fish in the water. He speared before he saw that
it was no fish, but a long sea-serpent. The fish-snake swam
with the spear in his side, and An-o-hos pulled, and he pulled and
pulled, and at last he pulled the serpent on the bank dead. He
had never seen so huge or so horrible a creature. It was too
great a monster to drag the whole body to the wigwam, so he
cut off a small bit and carried it up.
"Here is the fish," he said, laying it down.
No one said a word.
"I brought you some fish to cook," he repeated.
No one said a word.
So An-o-hos made ready to cook it himself. He got a basket,
laid the fish in it with water, then built a fire and heated stones.
All this time no one said a word.
He lifted a stone and carried it to the barket.
"Don't cook it !" said someone in a voice of fear.
But he dropped the stone in, and the water began to boil. He
dropped other stones in, and the water boiled and boiled, and
a great cloud of steam arose, white and big, and all the people
disappeared, for the fish was magical. An-o-hos ran to the door
and sprang outside just as the wigwam started to rise. It rose
up with the steam, higher and higher, above the tree-tops, above
the mountains, looking like a tent-shaped cloud, and he watched
it disappear at the highest point of the sky.
Pretty soon he felt something crawling under his feet. It was
the bad people, who had escaped the steam of the fish by bur-
rowing in the ground. They were trying to crawl out, but
An-o-hos stamped on their heads.
"You be that kind," said An-o-hos. "Live under the ground.
No need to talk fish to trick your guests. No need to put pitch
on spears." So he changed them all to Ach-a-las, the gophers,
and they have dwelt under ground ever since.
When An-o-hos had changed all those bad people to gophers,
he went on. He walked and walked and walked. Finally he
saw another smoke. There was another house. He stopped
at the door and saw two old people.
"Where are you going?" they asked.
"Oh, I am just going along this way," he replied.
They shook their heads.
"Better come in. Better go no further. You will get killed."
1*4 OUT WEST
"Who will kill me?"
So they told him of a bad old man who had a swing, and
everyone that passed his way he swung up into the sky. But
the Weasel would not stay. He went on into the strange
country. He went and went and went, and he came to another
rat's house. He tore down the house as before, and caught
the rat, and put him into his quiver. Then he journed on.
At last he saw the old man with his swing. An Indian swing
is a see-saw, and this swing had the long arm extending over
the lake.
"Oh, I am glad to see you," called the man. "I have been
waiting for someone to swing with for a long time."
The Weasel came up, and the old man told him to take the
long end and he would give him a fine swing. An-o-hos saw
how it extended over the water, so he went out a little way, let
the rat loose, and came back himself on the under side of the
board. The old man's eyes were bad, and he looked and looked,
and the rat looked so small he was sure it was An-o-hos away
out at the end of the swing.
So he pushed down, and went up, and pushed down, and went
up, and then pushed down with all his force, and the rat fell
off into the water.
The old man began to dance and caper for joy.
"Oh, he's dead at last !" he sang. "I've waited for this Weasel
Man, An-o-hos. He killed all my people, all along the way, and
he came to kill me. But he's dead, he's drowned ! He's drowned
in the lake !" He wheeled about. There stood An-o-hos.
"What do you make all this joy about?" asked the Weasel.
"Oh, I'm so glad you are back to get another swing."
"All right. We'll swing again. You get on the long end."
"Oh, I'll swing on this end again. That one goes farther. I'll
swing you fine this time."
"You go out," said An-o-hos, pushing him onto the board.
"Go away out to the end."
"Oh, I can't," whispered the old man. "I can't see to walk
the board !"
"Go on !" commanded the Weasel.
So the old man had to crawl clear out to the end that extended
over the lake.
The Weasel pushed down, and went up, and pushed down,
and went up, and then he pushed down with all his might. The
old man flew high into the sky. He went up through the clouds,
behind the clouds, on and on.
Nothing ever dropped.
The Weasel watched and watched.
THE LEGEND OF THE AN-O-HOS «6 5
After a while he heard a voice far up in the sky, singing, "Now-
wood-adow ! Cod-a-danima !" "I like to stay here! I see every-
thing!"
"Yes, you stay there," said the Weasel. "You see everything.
You swing up, and swing down, and see people you would like
to kill, and can't kill. You swing and swing and swing, all
alone. You be that kind. You be the sun."
So he changed the old man to the sun. And there he is, high
up in the heavens yet, always swinging, swinging, swinging,
swinging, up in the morning and down at night.
Whe An-o-hos had changed the old man into the sun, he went
journeying on, farther and farther into the strange country. He
had many other adventures that the Indians could tell about,
but this is the one that ended them.
He had come at last into the land of the sunrise, where every-
thing was more beautiful than all the rest of the world. There
were mountains about, and in their midst a meadow of smooth
green grass, fresh and moist. And in the midst of the meadow
were seven girls watching him.
They were beautiful girls, with long hair that floated, and
bright eyes that sparkled, and beautiful skirts of fringe tipped
with shells that said, "Sh ! Sh !" in a singing voice, when they
moved. They stood there hand in hand, waiting for him.
"Where are you going?" they asked.
"Oh, I was just going along this way," he answered, "to see
the new country."
"There is no more new country," they replied. "Better go
with us."
"All right," agreed the Weasel, readily enough. "I'll go with
you."
"But you'll have to do what we do."
"What is that?"
"Oh, we dance. We dance clear across the land and the
ocean, all in one night."
"I can dance," said the Weasel eagerly.
"But we dance in the sky."
"I can dance in the sky."
So they parted hands and took him into their circle. Then
they began to dance and sing. This is what they sang:
J ^JJ y^jJjjU^
Ho-wina, Ho-wan-o ! Ho-win-a, Ho-wan-o !
So they danced and danced, high in the air, they were so
nimble, and for a long time the Weasel danced as happily as
they. But after a few hours he began to grow tired.
Let me rest a minute," he said.
166 OUT WEST
"We can't rest here," they answered, dancing on.
"Only a minute," he begged. But they only sang and danced.
He tried to dance with them a little longer, but his feet hung
and would not keep time, so they had to clutch him beneath the
arms. On and on they danced, just as nimbly, just as happily,
with the shelled fringe of their skirts making soft music, and
their bright eyes shining. The Weasel could keep up no longer.
"Take me down," he pleaded. "We will soon be to the ocean."
"We can't leave our path," they sang. We must cross the
ocean tonight!" And they went on singing their sweet, high
song.
"Then drop me," said the Weasel, unable to lift a foot.
They didn't even pause in their singing, nor did their airy
dance miss a measure. But they dropped him.
Down, down he fell, growing smaller and smaller, smaller and
smaller, till he was no longer a man at all, but a Weasel. If
you want to know how he looked when he struck the earth, just
find him in the woods today — if you can. He has looked the
same ever since, and he has hidden ever since, for the shame of
his appearance. Sometimes he looks up and sees the girls that
he danced with. But they are no real girls. They are the seven
stars we call the Pleiades. Any night you can see their eyes,
but they dance too far up in the sky for us to hear their song,
or to catch the soft "Sh ! Sh !" of the fringe of shells on their
floating skirts.
Sacramento, Ual.
A DESCENDANT OF NOAH
By SOPHIA D. LANE.
ND all the days of Noah were nine hundred and fifty
years ; and he died." So the Scriptures tell us ; but the
generations of the sons of Noah lived after him, and
the names of the early members of the family are re-
corded in the tenth and eleventh chapters of Genesis,
from which survivors may be able to prove their direct descent.
Some of the lines seem, however, to have become extinct, perhaps
because they failed to beget descendants, and perhaps bcause the
keeper of the family records could not spell their names. There
remains, too, the possibility that they were blotted from the records
because they had disgraced the family name through certain char-
acteristics inherited from their ancestor.
Aside from the glory of begetting great patriarchs who made
names for themselves, the fame of most of them remains unadorned,
except that we are told that Nimrod was a mighty hunter, and
Ashur seems to have been a builder of cities. The colonizing instinct
was strong, too, and it is recorded that "of them was the whole
earth overspread." The location and ambitions of the lost branches
of the house would have remained unknown, had it not been that
the strong traits of Father Noah were distinctly impressed upon his
descendants even to the present generation.
The California branch of the family is located on an arm of the
San Joaquin River that reaches up to the city of Stockton. Mindful
of their ancestor, they have built them arks of whatever kind of wood
they could get, and have moored them along the banks of the chan-
A DESCENDANT OF NOAH 167
nel, where their picturesqueness is admired by visitors and artists,
while their proximity to the city is deplored by the citizens, who
periodically threaten to banish them beyond the city limits.
Each ark has its quota of inhabitants — for did not the Lord com-
mand Noah to "be fruitful and multiply?" Cats, coons, parrots,
canaries, dogs — dogs of all descriptions, high pedigree, low pedigree,
and no pedigree at all — find entrance there, the larger beasts of the
field being debarred only by lack of accommodations. And the fear
of the master is truly upon every beast in his possession, as the wail
of many a beaten brute testifies through the night.
Though the ark-people form, for the most part, a community by
themselves, and live by the fruits of their labor, yet it is known that
an occasional member prefers to profit by the edict given to his
forefathers : "Every living thing that moveth shall be meat for
you ; even as the green herb, have I given you all things." And so
he makes no distinction between his neighbor's possessions and his
own.
Such a member of the ark community was Big Noah. His patri-
archal beard, and his huge frame — inherited from the days when
there were giants in the world — together with his big family of
children and pets, had won for him the name, and he was known by
no other. He treated his neighbor's wood-pile and potato-patch as
he would his own — likewise his neighbor's washing. If a flitch of
bacon was left hanging out over night, the owner of it was sure to
see a lively smoke coming from the pipe-chimney of Noah's ark on
the following morning, and was forced to content himself with
savory odors of fried bacon, while, through the window of the ark,
he watched Big Noah and his family eating their breakfast.
Noah's love of his neighbor's goods often extended beyond the
banks of the slough, and many a chicken-coop was visited by his
dogs to furnish a meal for their master. At one time the old fellow
was missing during several days, and rumor among the ark-folk
had it that he had been sent to jail. His family were as faithful as
his dogs and came to the rescue with bail and fine, so he was soon
re-established on the porch of his ark, where he could tilt back in
his chair and give orders to his wife and children to bring him his
glass of beer — for he had not inherited the ancestral vineyards — and
to attend to his various other needs. Here, with his hat pulled
down over his eyes, he could smoke and snooze to his heart's con-
tent, undisturbed by the citizens' threats of banishment, or by the
wrangling of his neighbors.
And there was serious cause of wrangling among them. In one
arm of the slough was a sheltered spot overhung by a group of oak
trees, which furnished shade from the hot summer sun, a shelter
from the pelting rains, and a break for the troublesome winds. This
place was coveted by every ark-dweller on the slough, but no one
had been able to take and keep it. Occasionally some one did suc-
ceed in reaching the spot under cover of the night, but the next
morning would find the ropes cut, and the ark in mid-stream.
The splash of an oar and the creaking of ropes were signals for
the inhabitants of the slough to be up and to arms. Though on ordi-
nary occasions each ark-man was his neighbor's enemy, yet when it
came to the question of the proprietorship of the few square feet
of water beneath the oak trees, they would stand together as one
168 OUT WEST
man, against the offending party. The old inhabitants who had been
ambitious and energetic enough to try for the place had long ago
given it up and contented themselves with the next best.
But a stranger came among them one day, and, as he worked in
the ship-yard on the opposite bank, noted the vacant nook and the
many advantages it had over his present mooring place. It did not
occur to him to wonder why this spot was not already taken, so,
when the day's work was done, he made preparations for moving.
It was one of those short days in the late Fall when night comes
early, and there had sprung up a stiff breeze, which threatened to
become a gale before morning. The ark-men were out with their
lanterns, and the ring of their hatchets could be heard as they
hammered stakes more securely into the ground, and made their
moorings taut ; for there was danger, on such a night as his, that an
ark might break loose.
The stranger was hammering, too; but unlike his neighbors, he
was pulling up stakes, and loosening his moorings. One, who was
watching him closely, finally ventured to call out :
''What 're ye doin' that for, stranger? Ye better tie up good
an' strong where ye are, for these big winds is liable t' cast ye loose."
"That's just why I'm goin' over t' them oak trees," answered the
unsuspecting one.
"Them oak trees!" shrieked the neighbor. "No, y' ain't. Them
oak trees ain't fer you, nor none o' your kind."
"Who are they for, then?"
"Well, you just try t' git over there, and you'll find out pretty
quick. Them oak trees ain't been moored under since I lived on
the slough, and that's five years, and what's more, they ain't a-goin'
t' be moored under, neither!"
"Well, I don't see anything the matter with 'em, an' I want t' git
out o' this blamed wind, so I'm goin' over there anyhow," and the
stranger kept on with his work of pulling up stakes. Then, tying
his boat to the ark, he began to row it across the slough.
By this time some of the other neighbors, who had overheard the
conversation, were ready for action. The hammering ceased and the
lanterns bobbed from the top of the banks down to the water's edge,
as word was passed that the stranger was pulling for the oak trees.
At first, threats, curses, and oaths, mingled with tin cans and various
other missiles, were hurled from all sides of the slough at the daring
oarsman, who was making slow headway, with his ponderous tow,
to the opposite shore. As these proved unavailing, and the supply
of missiles gave out, the ark still moved on, although the oaths were
redoubled in quality and quantity, and mingled with the yelping of
curs and the barking of more respectable dogs, until it seemed as
if all the powers of darkness and all the fiends of Hell were let loose
upon the night. Soon the little boats with their lanterns began to
put out from the shore toward the ark now in mid-stream.
"Hold that lantern so I can see his tow-line," called a voice from
a boat close beside the stranger.
But a crackling of wood and a splash of water announced that
the ark-pilot was acting on the defensive, and that the owner of
the voice would have to get to shore as best he could.
All the boats now began to close in about their victim, and what
could one poor lone man do in such a plight? His way was
A DESCENDANT OF NOAH 169
blocked and the big ark in tow was tugging to get free, for the wind
was blowing stiffly now.
'Tve got his tow-line! Gi' me a knife!" cried a voice, near the
stern of the boat. Snap! The ark swung free, and, whirling
around, shot up to the bank — but a long way from the oak trees.
The combined efforts of nature and the ark-people had taught the
stranger that this haven of shelter was not for him, and he, too,
learned to be content with the next best.
While the other ark-men were securing their dwellings for the
night, Big Noah was enjoying his supper. The fact that his ark
might break loose caused him no unrest. He had heard the com-
motion outside, but his peace-loving nature kept him out of the
broil. He didn't care if somebody did moor under the oak trees.
So Noah and his family went to their beds undisturbed by the quar-
rels of their neighbors.
But during the night the wind grew fiercer and stronger, and a
furious storm arose. The arks creaked and tugged at their moor-
ings. Several of the ark-people were awakened in the night by a
banging and crashing, and those who looked out saw a big, white,
spectral ark pass swiftly on and out of sight. No one ventured into
the storm to find out more about it. But when morning broke, there,
under the oak trees, was Noah's ark, and there stood Noah on his
porch, wondering how he had gotten there.
Of course, stories of the night were told, and the security of the
ark was investigated. But it was found to have been driven so
hard against the roots of the trees, and held so securely in their em-
brace that it was impossible to dislodge it or cut it loose. So Big
Noah found himself master of the slough, and no one attempted to
dispute his possession of the coveted place.
A wet winter followed, with heavy snows in the mountains, and
from month to month the rain-gauge showed the heaviest rainfall
that had been known in years. The ark-people watched the rising
and falling of the slough, and labored at their moorings accordingly.
Some of them, to avoid the danger of drifting away in high water,
propped their dwellings up on stilts, or had them hauled up high onto
the bank. But most of them could not afford these precautions, so
they remained on the water to weather the elements as best they
could. Many an ark was swamped in the heavy rain- and wind-
storms, the soaked bedding and furniture that were spread out on
the banks of the slough on sunny days bearing mute testimony to
the fact.
But Big Noah enjoyed all days alike, untroubled. His abode was
held fast by the oaks, and high and low water, sunshine and rain,
were alike to him in his sheltered haven. His neighbors swore at
him for his good luck, but that did not change his position or his
attitude of mind. The sun brought him out to his customary seat
on the porch, and the rain drove him within. Those days of much
extra labor for his fellow-men were days of ease and luxury for
him.
Early in March there came the heaviest rain of the season. "The
windows of Heaven were open," and it seemed as if another flood
of forty days and forty nights was to be poured down upon the
earth. The spring freshets came out of the mountains, a cloud-
burst deluged the foothills, and the San Joaquin River, already
i7o OUT WEST
freighted with the burden of previous rains, rebelled against the sur-
plus waters.
All the waterways running through the country and town were
full to overflowing, and the river was backing up against them.
There was serious danger of a flood such as had been known in
former years. Old inhabitants told of early times when the country
was under water for days, crops were drowned out, and homes
washed away. People wandered about in their rain-clothes, watch-
ing the slough and speculating on how many inches it would rise
before night. Every communication from the country brought
news of districts already under water, and Stockton was threatened
with the overflow by the following morning. The people of the
city were kept busy nailing down their wooden sidewalks and clean-
ing out their cellars, while the ark-dwellers hammered harder than
ever at their stakes. Noah alone remained serene. He was still
trusting to Providence, his ark, and the oak trees.
Early in the forenoon came the rush of water. It ran in torrents
through the streets and surrounded the houses. Soon the whole
center of town was under water, and there was no distinction be-
tween the ark-man and his fellow townsman — save that the former
was better prepared to meet the situation.
By afternoon the rain had ceased, except for an occasional light
shower, and all the inhabitants of the slough — Noah and his family
included — were out on their porches, watching the row-boats and the
launches as they busily chugged about, and wondering what was to
become of it all. Friendly advice was exchanged from ark to ark,
as one man would tighten his moorings, or another loosened up a
bit, for a close watch was necessary.
As Noah's ark rose higher into the branches of the oak trees some
one ventured to shout out across to him :
"Tie up t' yer trees. Yu'll let loose there in a minute, and smash
into the whole blamed lot of us. Tie up, I tell yu !"
Noah saw no need of being urged to cling to the oak trees, since
they had clung so devotedly to him ; and there was no evidence that
he intended to break faith with them. But a lurch of the ark and
a scraping of branches on the roof made him look up and around.
What had happened? He was sailing away from them, and at too
lively a rate to grasp at the receding branches, even if he had tried
to do so. The ark struck into the current, and, in dignified state,
sailed away between the lines of arks on either side, without so much
as touching the side of one of them. Due west it steered toward
the open sky-line, leaving the wondering ark-people staring after it.
Toward evening, when the water began to recede, Noah found
his ark grounded high and dry on a chosen spot of land. He brought
his chair down with a thump, pushed back his hat, and looked
abroad. There was peace in his soul, for he was without the city
limits, his quarrelsome neighbors were left behind, and he noted that
his new neighbors, not far away, had wood-piles and chicken-
coops
As the flood abated, his wife called him and he went into the ark
to eat his supper. Just then a break in the western clouds sent forth
a ray of sunshine pointing to a glorious bow set in the East. Truly
the descendant of Noah had found grace.
San Francisco.
I 7 I
MIGUEL OF THE 'WOOD-TRAIL
By GERTRUDE B. WILLARD.
IGUEL knew very well if he lashed out with his wicked
sharp heels upon the long-suffering Lucia he would get
no carrot as he passed the little cabane nestled under
the hill at the turn of the trail, for Sancho would put
his at once on the end of the line, and pretty Rosa
Maria only gave carrots to the lead-donkey, when Sancho lingered to
sweeten his labors with a bit of love-making, before attacking the
straight-up steep and the open sun.
It was green and cool under the buckeyes and madronos of the
bottom, and the train of little, grey, long-eared, beasts was nothing
loath to steal an extra moment under no more load than the big hook-
saddles. Also, the leader liked the carrot — or sometimes it was a
sweet turnip — from the slim, brown fingers of Rosa Maria. But
Miguel never could resist the temptation to set the too-patient Lucia
to squealing and backing, thus throwing the line into confusion.
" 'Tain't wise to put them two less 'n two rod apart," old Bill, the
boss, used to say with a grin.
Besides, Miguel had not been a wood-carrier — shifting the heaviest
loads, on account of his superior skill and weight — for seven years
for nothing. Bear Creek was lying in the shadow now, although
the sun, sinking toward the Pacific, beamed with undiminished ardor
upon the denuded heights, fain to draw a veil of blueberry and
chaparral over the nakedness uncovered by the hand of man. Miguel,
knowing that this would be his last trip for the night, was minded
also to make of it the shortest. The rear burro would be the first
one dropped on the upward march, at the 'royo, where Salvator and
Dominick were cutting into cordwood the battered giant whose hon-
orable scars had saved him from the millmen all these years. Per-
haps if Bill had realized how matters stood between Salvator and
Dominick he would not have put them to work together on the
grandfather redwood. But he was more in the habit of knowing
the foibles of his donkeys, who stayed with him year after year, than
of his "Dagoes," whom the Company sent out to him season by
season.
The pair labored, for the most part, in silence — a desperate sign
among youth of the gay nationality. They sawed, and wedged, and
split so fast, on their perilously angled foothold, that now and again
the train-driver had to leave them an extra pack-bearer, cutting off
old Pedro, who worked alone high up among the small stuff, until
the next trip.
To the other choppers scattered over the slopes, Sancho commented
freely on the volcanic state of things below, and finally went to Bill
about it. Old Bill pushed back his hat and pulled his beard. "The
i72 OUT WEST
deuce you say!" he remarked, slowly, "I'll separate 'em tomorrow."
Sancho had come back to him several summers now, and he knew
him for a careful man, whose advice had proved valuable more
than once in settling strained conditions among his black-browed
henchmen.
"That girl'll be the death of me yet !" he growled, half to himself.
"She'll have the whole camp by the ears, they're all so cracked after
her. You'd think there warn't another young foreign female in the
county." At which the driver sniggered, sheepishly self-conscious.
"Can't have no ructions right away, anyhow," his superior finished
decidedly. "The Comp'ny's got a big contrac' for the City to get
out this month" — San Francisco is "The City" thro' the second tier
of counties around the bay and far beyond them — "an' the stuff's all
got to be in Boulder by the twenty-second."
He was not, however, reckoning on Miguel.
As Salvator laid his last stick over the load, and buckled the
straps fast, he saw by the sun's dip that before many minutes all
the distant saw-mill whistles would be screaming their signal to quit.
Giving the little beast the word to go, he turned to start a few wedges
ready for the morning.
Miguel stepped out gingerly, feeling his way with a careful fore-
foot, his great pack rocking like some small schooner on a wintry
sea, as he sidled this way and that among the brushes, down the
ragged arroyo to the lesser steep, and then, still slanting down,
across to the heavy fringe along the creek-trail. Here he dawdled,
deliberately. None of the other burros were likely to come down
to crowd him from behind, just yet, and he was pleased to enjoy
the moist woodiness of the bottom, snatching here and there a mouth-
ful of young leaves, before he passed the cabane, with its tempting
garden stretching up behind. He clattered over the narrow bridge,
and clambered to the cart-track that eventually brought him to the
main highway and the unloading ground.
So intent was he upon his enjoyment, stolen under burthen, that
when Rosa Maria trod lightly up behind him, coming with her olla
on her shoulder from the trail's end, where the spring-branch leapt
into the Bear twenty feet below, he refused to budge to let her by.
The girl, well akin to the wilful creature in her love for the wild
and her own sweet way, was quite content to loiter lazily in his wake
amid the green. And thus it was that Salvator, swinging rapidly
down toward supper and the evening hour's relaxing, came upon
her safe from old Juana's maternal eye, and bade her set aside the
great jar to hear his heart's desire.
Ever since the big Fourth-of-July dance at Boulder, when the sons
of the old Spanish settlers of San Lorenzo vied with the sons of
Italia from the wood-camps for her favor, and certain offspring of
Uncle Sam, from the mills and the team-gangs joined with un-
affected heartiness in the general attempt to turn the pretty head
of the little Mexican maid, Dominick Nicola had been mad for a
smile from Rosa Maria. All the black blood in his mighty body
seethed and churned when her laughing eyes lit upon some meaner
fellow. As well for his handsome, open face as for the distant taint
MIGUEL OF THE WOOD -TRAIL 173
of vendetta between their bygone peoples, his hate had fastened on
Salvator as his likeliest rival.
It had been bad enough while they were working over beyond
Bear Creek. Then, to his jealous soul, every evening's absence from
the loafing-place before the bunkhouse meant a stolen interview, and
Sunday was a day of torment unless he knew the youngster had
struck out for town. But since the Boss had determined upon clear-
ing the hill above the squatter's homestead, and the twain had been
forced to skirt the little cabane in company four times a day because
he dared not risk Salvator's luck alone, his life had been a hell.
For two days the big man had been struggling with a mania to
destroy. Not necessarily to the death, he reasoned cunningly — a
slip of the axe, or an aggravated misstep would be so easy — and,
the boy packed off for repairs, perhaps he could make good with his
carissima. The thing that held him back was a sudden blind hope
sprung from a droping glance. Tonight he would put it to the test,
and deliberately he let Salvator start alone when the whistles blew,
apparently set on conquering a certain knot before the stopped work-
ing.
If only Miguel had not kicked at patient Lucia, if only Sancho had
left him in the lead, he would have been far up among the chaparral
yet, and pretty Rosa Maria would have been baking crisp tortillas
on her mother's American cook-stove — bought with the proceeds of
turnips, and carrots, and salad, fresh from the garden — instead of
dallying with her water-jar along the wood trail. With head bent
and cheek aflame under the young Neapolitan's outpouring of pas-
sion, how could she see the distorted face bent above them from
the manzanita thicket?
The truant burro brayed blatantly at some goading sound behind
him, and broke into a joggling trot that carried him rapidly over his
road until he met old Bill on his stout brown nag in the cart-way.
Bill pulled to one side respectfully for the burden-bearer to pass, but
the little grey beast's spectacle-ringed gaze fell upon him with open
disfavor, and, wheeling suddenly in his tracks, he made off across
the creek again, calling vociferously as he went.
"That blame jackass's got one of his pesky spells agen !" grumbled
the Boss aloud. "He ain't a-goin' to run far with that load on —
but if he sh'd happen to meet up with another jack in one of them
narrer streaks he'd raise Ned ! Guess I'd better head him off." Put-
ting spur to the small mountain mare he scurried up the grass-grown
track a few rods, flung the rein over Lady Betty's nose, and tramping
with a sure foot upon the spray-dashed boulders in the rushing
stream, scrambled hastily up the further bank among the bay bushes.
"If it hadn't been for that damn fool Miguel," he said to Sancho,
anxiously kicking his heels on the corded piles, an hour later, "them
two innocents cou'd 'a weltered the life out of 'em up there on the
trail, an' no one known nuthin' of it, mebbe, till they was cold. That
dirty Dominick's knife was sharp! Salvator's got to be sewed up
consider'ble, I guess, when the boys get the doctor out here. But
the girl ain't so bad !"
"Good for go to Boulder Sunday, you t'ink?" his train driver ques-
tioned, eagerly. "Tonight I spik ol' Ramon an' Tia Juana. Sunday
I go for marry Rosa Maria."
Ban Jom, C«l
»74
THE FIRST MAIL ROUTE IN
CALIFORNIA
By W. J. HANDY.
'HE first regular mail-route in California was put
in operation by the following order :
Arrangements for transporting the Mail between
San Diego and San Francisco.
To commence on Monday, the 19th April, 1847.
To be carried on horseback by a party to consist of two
soldiers, starting every other Monday from San Diego
and San Francisco, the parties to meet at Capt. Dana's
Ranch, the next Sunday, to exchange Mails.
Then start back on their respective routes, the next Monday morn-
ing and arrive at San Diego and San Francisco on the Sunday follow-
ing and so continuing.
The mail will thus be carried once in a fortnight from San Diego to
San Francisco and return.
From San Diego the mail will arrive at San Luis Rey Monday
evening, at the Pueblo de Los Angeles Wednesday noon, at Santa
Barbara Friday evening, at Capt. Dana's Ranch Sunday evening, at
Monterey Thursday evening, at San Francisco Sunday evening.
Letters and Papers carried free of expense.
By order
Brig. Gen. S. W. Kearney.
The carriers, or couriers, followed the road or trail laid out from
one Mission to another, known as "Camino Real."
The order does not mention all the Missions en route, but there
is no doubt that a stop was made at each one; for it was only at
these places that there was any settlement, hamlet or miniature vil-
lage.
The arrival of the mail-carrier brought messages and news from
Alta and Baja regions — what ships had arrived, what passengers,
what was doing at San Diego, Los Angeles, Monterey, San Fran-
cisco, at the Missions and along the road ; for under his broad
sombrero was carried the contents of a weekly newspaper, to be read
for the asking and without a subscription.
This being the first regular mail-route in California, it must also
be credited as the first free rural-delivery route in the United States.
But think of mail taking fourteen days in transit, when the same
journey is now made in an equal number of hours, and complaint is
made if the expected letters or daily papers are delayed even a short
time.
The meeting place of the two carriers was at Dana's Ranch, and a
brief description of this place will be interesting. I am indebted to
Mr. H. C. Dana, son of the captain, and born and brought up at
the ranch-home, for information concerning most of this article. He
tells me he remembers the arrival of the mail and knew the carriers.
THE FIRST MAIL ROUTE IN CALIFORNIA 175
It was an event of greater interest to him than boys of today take
in the daily visits of the mail, and, boy-like, he wished the day would
come when he could ride and carry mail.
William G. Dana was born in Boston, 1797. Having a good
education, he was sent, while a young man, by an uncle who was
engaged in trade in the Pacific waters, on a trip which took him
first to China, where he remained two years ; then to the Sandwich
Islands, where he remained some time as a buyer and shipper. From
there, in command of his own ship, he arrived at Santa Barbara in
1820. So delighted was he with the country that, disposing of his
vessel, he engaged in business and became a permanent resident.
In 1828 he married Josepha Carrillo, daughter of Governor Don
CAPT. WM. G. DANA From an old print
Carlos Carrillo. In 1835 he applied for and came into possession of
the Nipomo Ranch, which was afterward patented to him by the
United States.
It was a lordly domain of 3,800 acres. (If you are curious as to
its limits, figure it out — 640 acres being a mile square.) This ranch
extended from the ocean to the mountains. Not all agricultural
land, but surely enough in those days of early living. The dwelling
house, large and roomy, two stores, with the usual court or patio,
was built in the early thirties, and, while its material was of adobe,
it stands today in excellent condition.
For many years it was the only dwelling between San Luis Obispo
ancTSanta Barbara, the stopping place for all travellers — for Captain
Dana was widely known with his kind, courteous manner and open-
176 OUT WEST
hearted hospitality. And what a place for a rest, with its large herds
of cattle and sheep, and horses running wild and uncounted! The
house was so situated that a view was had for miles in either direc-
tion. There were servants to anticipate every possible want, and all
was contented and happy.
The Mexican Governors and their escorts, revolutionary leaders
of either party, Mission fathers, Indians, no matter who came, all
were welcome and no charge made. The latch-string hung out day
and night, for Captain Dana was an American and neutral as to
political events.
Fremont was several times a guest. Army officers en route be-
tween stations were often there. At one time a party of English
scientists made a home there for a month, exploring and collecting
specimens.
On one occasion Fremont, on one of his rapid rides, came to the
ranch with a company of about sixty men, and, being in a strenuous
hurry, made known his need of a change of horses, dismounted, turned
his own jaded horses loose, and with lariat captured others from
Captain Dana's herd and rode on — all in a few moment's time.
In 1848, the steamer Edith was wrecked nearby. Captain Dana took
officers and crew to his home, entertaining them for a considerable
time. Just before their departure, knowing their needs (for the
wreck had left them sadly destitute), he put a sum of money in each
room, sufficient to meet their expenses to their homes. It was done
so politely it could not be taken as an act of ostentatious charity.
A guide and horses were furnished to take them to Monterey, where
a vessel could be found to carry them to their destination.
An amusing story is related of a band of Tulare Indians who
stopped at the ranch on the v/ay to the beach to gather strawberries.
They were fed and had the use of the barns for lodging. On their
return trip the Indians were in breech-clouts, having filled their
trousers and shirts with berries for Mrs. Dana. The thank-offering
was accepted with courtesy and Muchas Gracias, as the narrator says,
"No matter what she did with the gift when they were gone."
Casa de Dana was one of the houses where a welcome was with-
out limit in the good old ranchero days, when the great land-owners
were lords of the country. Old settlers delighted to recount the good
times they used to have with El Capitan Dana, and his equally hos-
pitable wife and family. For a visit in those days was not simply a
formal call, but was often extended a week or more, and, with hunt-
ing, fishing and other entertainments, made an occasion to be remem-
bered and a repetition of it wished for.
In 1828, when in need of a vessel for the coast trade, Captain
Dana undertook to build one near Santa Barbara, where Elwood
now stands. It was a difficult task in those days, for there was not
THE FIRST MAIL ROUTE IN CALIFORNIA 177
a machine-shop or saw-mill this side of the Missouri river.
Mechanics were scarce, and so were tools. The timbers for the
vessel were either hewn with an adze or sawed by hand. A long
trench was dug ; over this trench a log would be rolled and one man
below the log and another on top would work with a long saw from
end to end until the plank or timber was completed. Notwithstand-
ing all these difficulties, and with the aid of sailors who had drifted
to this coast, a beautiful schooner was built and named "La Fama."
It was famous, for it was the first vessel built in California.
When ready to be launched, and a day set for the occasion, the
neighbors from far and near came over with their oxen, to the
The Dana Homestead
number of forty or more pair, under the belief it would require that
many to move the vessel to the water. Their offer was declined with
thanks, and when the natives saw the schooner sliding on the ways
built, and liberally tallowed for the occasion, right into the stream,
they could not help admiring the Yankee ingenuity and gave vent to
their wonder and appreciation with cheers and Mexican expressions,
impossible to be put into print. A dinner followed and El Capitan
Dana was called Bueno Americano.
This article could easily be extended many times its length with
matter relative to this historic place and its princely proprietor.
Captain Dana died in 1858, leaving a large family, many of whom
still reside within the limits of the old farm.
Pua4ena, C»l.
1 7 8
TH*r
WHICH IS
WRITTEN
o
&&?
As a comprehensive, readable and usually
£">■:#• accurate summing-up of recent progress in
scientific agriculture, W. S. Harwood's The
New Earth is of some contemporary importance. The note of enthusiastic
interest rings in it throughout, and the author's drag-net has been cast into
many waters, with the result that some of the catch, as served up, is rather
remotely connected with the main subject. But it is all interesting and most
of it reliable. The more is the pity that there should be repeated stumbles,
caused sometimes, apparently, by a desire for picturesqueness which has led to
overstatement, sometimes by sheer carelessness. The first paragraph of the
first chapter is a fair specimen of this sacrifice of accuracy to the desire for
effectiveness. Mr. Harwood says :
Dust-blown and blizzard-swept, with a lean, weed-grown soil on
which scrawny kine and stunted crops were raised, the Old Earth
was far from paradise. The cheerless, desolate home, often untidy and
usually cursed with food unfit to eat, the ever-growing mountain of
debt, the deadening desolation, the lack of opportunity for cultivation,
the steadily growing dislike of it all, not infrequently deepening into
hate, — these were the things of the Old Earth.
Unless this is intended for a fair picture of the average American farm of
forty or fifty years ago, it has no particular meaning. If it be so intended, it
is entirely misleading. Certainly it bears slight resemblance to my grand-
father's farm, which I knew pretty well thirty-five or forty years ago, nor to
the great majority of those which I have known since then.
A little later on he speaks of glacial action in the formation of soil, as
follows :
. . . the soil of the earth was valueless until the all-wise Ruler
put his great ice-mills to grinding, throwing into the mighty hopper
boulders and hills of stone, and here and there the huge slice of a
hoary mountain. When the mills had finished the grinding and had
discharged their product over the earth, there appeared the beginnings
of the soil of today.
Impressive this may be, but only fractionally true— and a small fraction at
that. So far as the evidence goes, the "great ice-mills" played no important
part in the formation of soil until a comparatively recent geological period.
The richest and most profuse vegetation in the history of the planet covered
the earth countless centuries before the Glacial Age, and a considerable part of
the most fertile soil today is in sections where there is no evidence of glacial
action at any time.
"In 1700, under the great impetus of Linnaeus, father of modern botany,"
says Mr. Harwood. Karl von Linne was born in 1707, and the impetus which
he had given to anything in 1700 is probably negligeable. The proportion of
carbon dioxide in the air is not one to twenty-five thousand, as stated, but
about one to twenty-five hundred by weight. Protoplasm is neither "the high-
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN 179
est attribute of [vegetable] life," nor is it "very life itself." Four degrees
Fahrenheit is not the equivalent of one and eight-tenths Centigrade, but of
about two and two-tenths.
Mr. Harwood speaks of "the greatest lemon orchard in the world, full
thirty thousand acres," the context making it clear that he refers to the vicinity
of San Diego. San Diego raises a good many lemons — and fine ones — but
there is nothing which can be reasonably described as a lemon orchard of
30,000 acres there, or anywhere else in the world. In describing the work
of the Reclamation Service, he says : "The amount of money each settler
pays is small — twenty dollars, in ten annual installments." He probably in-
tends to say twenty dollars per acre, though nothing in the context assures
this. Furthermore the amount to be paid by the settler will vary quite widely
in different districts, depending upon the cost of the particular project and the
acreage benefited. The lowest actual cost-estimate so far made is $18.50 per
acre — for the Klamath Lake project; the highest is about $45. Neither was
there a fund of thirty million dollars accumulated for this work "to begin
with." The amount available under the Reclamation Act, June 30, 1902,
approximated $7,745,000. Four years later the aggregate of moneys expended
or available had reached nearly $32,000,000.
Thes description of the part played by the Blastophaga in the production
of the Smyrna fig is not only singularly incomplete but inaccurate, while
the clear implication that the increase in the cured-fig output of California
from 360,000 pounds in 1891 to 5,000,000 to 7,000,000 pounds annually at present
has been wholly or mainly due to the successful experiment in caprification is
far from sound. The average pack of cured figs in California in the five years
ending 1899 was 3,000,000 pounds. The total pack of the California Smyrna
fig in 1900 — the first year in which it was of much importance — did not greatly
exceed 12,000 pounds. It is considerably larger than that now, but is still
nowhere near to being the larger share of the total product.
One more quotation will serve to illustrate a certain weakness for purple
patches which, for my taste, disfigures Mr. Harwood's style.
If but during one generation of the New Earth, in which man in the
mass has learned more about these enemies than he had ever known
before, there should have been a universal abandonment of this con-
certed effort to keep down the weeds of the globe, the gaunt figure of
Famine, arm in arm with Disease, and both overshadowed by Death,
would today stalk unmolested across the earth and men would rapidly
approach the same extermination he now must wage against this tire-
less foe of his race.
I do not wish to be understood as condemning this book, nor even as
"praising it with faint damns." On the contrary, its very interest and value
have led me to call attention to these faults — which can well enough be
removed in future editions. The Macmillan Co., New York. $1.75 net.
No one "series" on my book-shelves has yielded larger and more A SURE
constant dividends of satisfaction than the Doubleday-Page "Nature dividend
Library." Without a single exception these volumes are accurate, en- payer
tertaining and beautiful. To the list is now added Julia E. Rogers's The Tree
Book — a popular guide to a knowledge of North American trees, their culti-
vation and their uses. The warmest words of praise are none too warm for this
superb manual. The greater part of the book is occupied by such exact, yet
interesting, descriptions, aided by several hundred choice illustrations, as will
help any intelligent reader to a swift and sure acquaintance with any of the
i8o OUT WEST
"People with the Green Heads" to whom his path may lead him. There are
added parts on Forestry, including chapters on profitable tree-planting and
the pruning and care of trees; on the Uses of Wood; and on the Life of
the Trees.
Ungracious though it may seem, I must call attention to t