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Full text of "The Pacific monthly"

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IS UMBERS 



Making the Dirt Fly 



While Uncle Sam is making the 
dirt fly, at\ Panama, Sapolio 
it fly at home 







The Pacific Monthly 



VOLUME XVIII 



JULY-DECEMBER 
1907 



"The Magazine of the West" 




THE PACIFIC MONTHLY PUBLISHING COMPANY 

PORTLAND, OREGON 

1907 



'Til 




Copyright, 1907, by 
The Pacific Monthly Publishing Company 



All Rights Riserved 



Contents 



About Wlllapa Hay ..... 

An Idyll of tha Trout Streams 

An Bsaplra in the Making: 

An Inside Light on Kipling 

An Inventive Irrlgatlonlst 

Aa Philosopher I'nto I'hlloaopher 

At Last, A Summer Resort .... 

Autumn ( Verne I .... 

■ rse) 
Unitle of the Big Horn. The 
Beulah I-and. The Land of Promise 

Bolae. The Beautiful 

Captain Tubble'* Debut (Story) 

Carmellta (Story) 

I 'rawing* by_ Maynard Dlzon. 
Claim Jumpers. *The ..... 

Urawlnga by H. W. Armstrong. 
Copper, the Slogan of Southeastern Alaska 
Crucifixion Yucca. The (Verse) 

With a Volcano. A 
Defense of Style. A .... . 

Drama In New York ..... 
Dramatic Season In New York. The 
Deserter, The (Verse) ..... 
End of Change. The (Story) 
Engagement of Allen Somers. The (Storj 

Drawings by Eleanor Walla Plaw. 
Fight on the Little Muddy. The 
Forest Festivals of Bohemia, The 
Found ...... 

«;ift. The (Story) 

Drawings by Xavler Martinez 
Glories of Valdez 

From Photographs by George C. Cantwell. 
Ion. The (Verse) ..... 
"liuy MuniuTlrig" (Story) 

eat. The (Verse) 
Helmsman, The ..... 

I 'rawing by A. Uurr. 
Hermit of San Nicholas, The 

Photographs by J. C. Hrewst, i 
Hlflory. Fiction and the Point of View 
House of Dreams, The (Verse) 

Drawings by Xavler Martinez. 
Idle Days or the New York Stage; A Glance Backward 

: Forward 
Importance of the Unimportant 
Impressions ..... 

Faith Begins Where Reason Ends; but Who Shall 
Say Where Reason Ends? 

If you Would Not Be Betrayed Put Neither Your 
Life, Liberty Nor Property Into the Power of 
Another 

Every Privilege Has Been Regarded by the Prlv 
iltged Class as a Right 

The Moving Power In Men, as Well aa Animals, 
la instinct and Impulse. .Not Reason 

■ 'hrlstmas .... 
In Exile (Verse) .... 
in Old Bohemia .... 
ketchup' 
■ Hon in Southern California 
Justice and the Theatrical Syndicate 
KiiiKtlshers ..... 

Photographs by Herman T. Bohlmu 
Klamath Country, The ..... 
Last Stand of the Argonauts, The (Serial) 
Lighter Sido . 

Los Angeles Savings Banks 
Man Who Wax Not Wulte Sure, The (Story) 
■ t to Nature ..... 
Mediterranean of North America. The 
Midwinter Playground of America. Tha 



Glen Egbert 

Jules Verna des Votgnes 

uerlte Stabler 

Elizabeth \ 
J. W. wine: est-r 
L. M. Ma Athur 
Charles 11 Clark, Jr. 
Fred A. Hunt 




Van Van OMnda 
Jarr.es Hopi er 

Herman Whltaker 

Don Steffa 

In Wllpon 
Arthur Mill' head Burns 
Porter Own ett 
William Winter 
William Winter 
Mary Madison Lee 
Margaret Adelilde Wilson 
Agnes Foster Buchanan 

Fred A. Hunt 
Porter Garn.tt 



James Ho|>p r 



Min 

11 

SJ'.m 
5(0 

Mia 

71 
3»1' 
(21 
241 
700 
610 
«2I 
577 

15 

(SI 

SOI 

247 

»S 

451 

621 

22 

IM 

240 

6»S 
1(5 

SI2 

051 



i (iarnett , 

Morris Wells 
Charles E.mer Jenney 
J. H. Walsh 

W. A. Tenney 

Porter Harnett 
Pori. r Garnet! 



2o»-:ie 

570 
317 
452 
551 

22 

2St 
7(» 



William Wli.t.-r 

Portar Garnatt 

i h.ir.es Erskme Scott W 



26.. 
434 



Ml 



l Broks 
i harles Warren Stoddard 
Robert Mclntyre 

William Winter 
William L. Flnley 



IM 

£0* 

62., 
741 
4j3 
t>3* 

iJie 
IM 
217 

£12 
IZ!-4)M 



John Fleming Wilson 
Hiik'h llenlm.in 

141b. 271a. 392r, 521s, (35q 747 

141a 

II. Austin Adams I S3 

51 . 

• H. Yandell 141 

An Exiled California n 711 






CONTENTS— Continued 



Mix-Up in Souls, A (Story) 
Money Mirage. The (Story) . 
Most Beautiful Girls on Earth, The . 

Photograph by Major Lee Mo^rhou^e. 
Motor Boating on Puget Soun:l 
New York Theater, The 
October (Verse) ..... 
Old Letters (Verse) .... 
Old Trailer, The (Verse) . 
On the Hurricane Deck of a Comb'ne . 
Opportunity and a Swede 
Opportunity in Kittitas County 
"O te Quiero" (Story) 

Drawing by MacM. Pease. 
Out of Doors in California 

Photographs by Graham Photograph Company. 
Our Strategic Position in the Pacific . 
Pair of Cousins, A 

Photographs by Herman T. Bohlman. 
Passing Stranger, The (Verse) 
Persistency of Wu Lung Wouey, The (Story) 
— Poetics, Bierce and Sterling 
Praise With Paint Damns 
Progress of Irrigon, The 
Reclaiming an Empire .... 
Reverie, A (Verse) .... 

Drawings by Eloise J. Roorbach. 
Rod on the Pacific Coast, The 
Rover's Toast, The 

Security (Verse) ..... 
Settler, The (Serial) .... 



Some Views of the Clackamas River . 

From Photographs by O. Preytag. 
Song of the Road (Verse) 

Drawings by Eloise J. Roorbach. 
Song of the Saddle, The (Verse) 
Soul of a City, The (Verse) . 
Southwest From Bullfrog (Story in Verse) 

Drawings by Maynard Dixon. 
Stage Affairs in New York 
Stage and the Pulpit, The 
Stake, The (Verse) 
Stand Still (Verse) 

Drawings by Eloise J. Roorbach. 
Struggle, The (Verse) ... 
Summer Playground of America, The 
"Them White Faces" (Story) 
To Protea (Verse) 
Trail From Town, The (Verse) 
Transformation of a Desert, The 
Trapping in the Golden North 
Trip to Moses Coulee, A 
Triumph of Ah Joy 

Drawings by Colista M. Murray. 
Undomesticated Indian, The . 

From Photographs by Mrs. Fanny Van Duyn. 
Unspoken (Verse) .... 
"TJp-Lift" in San Francisco, The 
Upper Snake River Valley. The 
Valleyford ..... 
Victoria. The Remembered 
Vigilantes, The (Verse) 
Washington's Vale of Plenty 
Waterloo of King Jedediah I, The (Story) 
Way of the Land Transgressor, The 

The West and the President's Land Policies 

Gifford Pinchot and the National Forests . 

Ethan Allen Hitchcock and the Lieu-Land Operators 

Some Queer Operations in tlfe Rocky Mountain 
States ........ 

The Coal-Land Gang ...... 

Western Affairs at Washington ..... 



Robert Whitaker 
E. D. Biggers 
Joaquin Miller 

Daniel L Pratt 

William ■Winter 

John S. Reed 

Mary Ogden Vaughan 

Charles B. Clark, Jr. 

Fred Lockley 

Fred Lockley 

Marguerite Stabler 

George Wharton James 

Arthur H. Dutton 
William L. Finley 

Edith Campbell Babbitt 
W. A. Scott 
Porter Garnett 
Porter Garnett 



F. H. Newell 
William Winter 



46 
201 
725 

113 

688 
439 
388 
13 
29^ 
276 
535a 
427 

101 

587 
603 

738 
341 
553 
739 
520 
471 
681 



Charles F. Holden 1 

Charles B. Clark. Jr. 637 

Elizabeth Lambert Wood 455 
Herman Whitaker 

52, 177, 325, 440. 563 
73 



Charlton Lawrence Edholm 



Charles B. Clark, 
Harley R. Wiley 
Rufus Steele 



Jr. 



William Winter 
William Winter 
Charles B. Clark, Jr. 
Elizabeth M. Redfern 

Sinclair Lewis 
Frank Carleton Teck 
Frederick E. Scotford 
Porter Garnett 
Charles B. Clark, Jr. 
Fred R. Reed 
Percival Nash 



J. D. Hassenfurther 



Ralph L Harmon 
Arno Dosch 



John Fleming Wilson 
Margaret Ashmun 
C. J. Blanchard 
John Fleming Wilson 
Lute Pease 



Western Scenes ........ 

From Photographs. Reproduced in Color. 
What Irrigation Is Doing for Spokane 
What Irrigation in California Has to Offer Immigrants 
Where Mud Is Minted ....... 

Whine of the Wheels, The (Story) .... 

Drawings by the Author. 
Wonder-Worker in Southern Idaho .... 

Yucaipa Valley, The ....... 



Ira E. Bennett 

165, 283, 415, 



610, 



Fred Lockley 
Clarence Edwords 

Jack Jungmeyer 



650 

620 
271 
465 

110 

31 

456 

593 

609 

128 
388 
109 
281 
272 
225 
518 
757 

33 

51 
373 
508 
509 
237 
208 
393 

41 

145 
345 
485 

447 
727 

666 
457 

134 

407 

636o 

307 

521c 

519 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY ADVERTISING SECTION. 



AS YOU KNOW 

Tin- famous Marshall &i Stearns Patented Wall Beds and Fixtures have com 
plrtclv solved the Apartment Bonn problem, for tlie hoankwper M well as for the 
architect ami builder. And 

YOU ALSO KNOW 

That these ip— 1 1 living', comfort-affording and income-increasing Patented 
Wall Beds and Fixtures arc new universally recognized as a "Standard" and are 
rapidly being adopted all over the country in Apartment Houses, Hotel- and private 
homes. But 

YOU MAY MOT KNOW 

That the demand for the Marshall iSc Stearic goods is so tremendous that the 
Company is called upon to do a business during 1907 which necessitates the selling 

• lie of it.- 1'refericd Stock, thus increasing its working capital to meet this un- 
precedented demand. And 

YOU WILL BE GLAD TO KNOW 

That evexjf cent received from the sale of the 10,000 shares of 6 jier cent Pre- 

■ I Stock offered for public subscripticm will be turned into the treasury of the 
Corporation and used IMMEDIATELY to increase its earning capacity; and that to 
make the investment doubly attractive, one share of Common Stock will be given 

\> A BONU8 with each share of Preferred Stock sold. And 

OF COURSE, YOU KNOW 

That such an investment opportunity rarely comes but once in a lifetime, and 
that VOC should take advantage of it before this small block of stock is sold. 
Finally, here are a few additional facts 

YOU SHOULD KNOW 

About the Marshall & Stearns Company and this 6 per cent Preferred Stock - 
ill The Company is incorporated under the laws of California with an authorized 
capital stock of $1,000,000, of which $250,000 is 6 per cent Pretend and *7.'>0,000 
Common Stock, each having a par value of $10 per share, FULLY PAID; (2) the 
Company has hitherto been a close corporation with not a share of Mock owned 

■ ' by its founders and present exclusive owners; (3) the prolits from the un- 
lilled orders now on the books are suflicient to pay a 6 per cent dividend on the en- 
tire Preferred Stock and a substantial dividend on the Common Stock; (4) not 

cent in dividends can be paid to the present owners, represented by the Common 
Stock, until the full dividend of 6 per cent per annum, payable quarterly, has been 
paiil on all the Preferred Stock; (5) after the payment of the 6 per cent dividend- on 
the I'naJVrrod and Common Stock, additional earnings will be divided equally, share 
and fchare alike. 

This stock will he sold in large or small blocks to the LARGK or SM MI. 
INVESTOR 

Th* "Boom Id— I," showing how the saving of space Mar- 

shall & Stearns patents, m.iihd FREE upon request 

For further information, write or call at the I^os Angeles office. 



NO 
FISCAL 
AGENTS 



Marshall & Stearns Co. (**i 

436-444 So. Broadway, Los Angolos, Oat. 



NO 
FISCAL 
AGENTS 



SAM FRAMCISCO. 004 Eddy Slrmml SEATTLE, 507-0 Bmllmy Building 

t'mirr. A4~.it., Iai Ang*U% 

Do not forfet to mention Tbe Pacific Month!/ when deallns with adT*rtia«ra. It will be anpr+ctatt-d. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 




Insure Your Life 

and you will feel a better man than before. You can look 
the world in the face knowing that whatever may happen, 
your home — your wife— your family — will be cared for. 

When you are insured — if you have capital and want to 
invest it in your business, you can do it with the assurance 
that there will be the Life Insurance money left to your 
family, if you should not live. 

When you see a Prudential agent, hear his story, sign 
the application and thus 

Demonstrate to Your Family That 
Your Love for Them Is Sincere 

The Prudentiai issues desirable plans of Life Insurance to suit every income. 



Write to-day for information showing what One Dollar 
a week invested in Life Insurance will do. Dept. 23 



THE PRUDENTIAL 

Insurance Company of America 

Incorporated a* a Stock Company by the State of New Jersey 

JOHN F. DRYDEN, President Home Office: NEWARK, N. J. 



Do not forget to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing with advertisers. It will be appreciated. 



UNI . < 1 




t 



'The Pacific Montnly 

'Hi* entire contents of Mita Ukii.iw an- rorersd by the nenersl cupjrrl(bt and »nl.-k- nn»i mm i« reprinted 

without special |ierml>slon. 



=% 



Contents for July, 1907 



THE 



a glrl or the west 

! uid Photographed by F II Klser 
THE HOD OH THE PACIFIC COAST 

lllu-i 
THE OLD TRAILER < Vers.- > ... 
CARMELITA I Story I 

Drawing by Maynard Dixon. 

DESERTER I Write) .... 

HERMIT Or SAH HICHOLAB 

Illustrated from Photographs 1>> J C Mrewster 

STAOE AHS THE PULPIT 
THE UNDOMESTICATED INDIAN 

He; ■ In Color of Seven Photographs by 

WATERLOO Or XZHO JEDEDIAH I (StOrj ' 

CUP IN SOULS < Story) .... 
• rae) ...... 

SETTLER, i 'hapten XVI-XIX 
AS PHILOSOPHER UNTO PHILOSOPHER 'Story) 
SOME VIEWS OP THE CLACKAMAS RIVER 

Reproductions In Color of Sevan 1'! "tographs by 
AH IDYLL Or THE TROUT STREAMS 

Illii-tnited by Photographs by the Author. 
A DAT WITH A VOLCANO .... 

llhiMiuted from Photographs. 
OUT-Or-DOORS IN CALIFORNIA 

Illustrated by the Graham Photo Co. 

TO PROTEA | \Vrse) 

STAOE AFFAIRS IN HEW YORK 
MOTOR BOATING OH PUQET SOUND 

Illustrated from Photographs. 

A DEFENSE Or STYLE 

A SUMMER PLAYOROUND Or AMERICA 

Illustrated from Photographs. 
WHAT IRRIGATION IS DOIHO FOR SPOKANE 
THE MEDITERRANEAN Or NORTH AMERICA 
THE LOS AHOELES SAVINGS BANKS 



Co\. i 



Charles P. Holder 

Charles B. Clark, Jr. 
James Hopi*r 

Mary Madison Lee 
w. A. Tenney 

William Winter 



Mrs. Fanny Van Duyn. 

John Fleming Wilson 
Robert Whltak.r 
Ralph 1- Harmon 
Herman Whllaker 
Elisabeth Vore 

Kreytag. 

Jules Vergne des Voignes 

Arthur Mulrheud Burns 

Oeorge Wharton James 

Porter Oarnett 
William Winter 
Daniel U Pratt 

Porter Oarnett 
Frank Carleton Teck 

Fred Lockley 
.' I! Ysndell 



Design 

1 

IS 
II 

I! 

21 

31 

a 

41 

II 

r.i 

71 
HI 

M 

101 
10» 

no 
in 



131 
141 
III 



TERMS: 11.00 a rear In advance: 10c a ropr. Canadian subscript tana, II.M per year lu advanr*. 

foreign, 1X00 a year In adranrr. Subscribers should remit to as la P. O. or express monr> 

orders, or In bank checks, drafta or rcglalcrcd letters. 
CHAN0E8 OP ADDRESS: When a chance of addresa la ordered, hotb tbe sew and tbe old ad.lr.-~ 

most be given, and notice sent tbree weeks before tbe change la desired. 
If tbe mngaslne !a not received eTery month, yon will eonfer a favor by ao a.lrlainx n«. 
. oUIU:>r.'\[.) \>'K should always be address-d to Tbe PsruV M.ulhlr. Lafayette llulldlns. I'..rtlan.|. 
con. 

The Pacific Montkly Publishing Co. 

Lafayette Building 

313 !<? Washington Street. Portland, Oretfon 



v 



Copyright. lOOt. by The Pacific Month!} Publishing Company. Entered 

as second-class matter. 



at tbe Pootomce at Portland. Oregon. 



J 



THE PACIFIC M0NTHLY—ADVEKT1SING SECTION 



EDUCATE YOUR 
DAUGHTER 

AT 

ST. MARY'S 

ACADEMY 

AND COLLEGE 
PORTLAND 
OREGON 




HER future success as a cultured, true hearted woman of the 
highest intelligence and usefulness depends on her edu- 
cation and environment during these early impressionable years. 

St. Mary's Academy and College now in its 49th year, offers every pos- 
sible advantage; the very best mental, moral and physical development, ideal 
home life, refined associates, the highest grade training [in music and art, 
a splendidly equipped gymnasium — basket ball and tennis — a magnificent 
campus, and every opportunity for laudable enjoyment in the way of daily 
walks, excursions to nearby parks, and trips to the seashore ; also, with 
the parents' consent, the best singers and musicians are heard, and 
libraries and art museums visited. In short, students receive, care- 
fully chaperoned, every advantage of life in a metropolitan city. 

St. Mary' s has a national reputation ; its students come 
from many states including Wisconsin, Montana, 
Nebraska, Idaho, Alaska and Oregon. There are the 
two distinct departments — academic and collegiate- 
each equipment for the most thorough work. Both 
day and resident students are received, 440 
having been enrolled the past year— chiefly 
young ladies. — Term opens in Sep- 
tember; write at once for booklet y^/^* 
giving further information. 




Do not forget to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing with advertisers. It will he appreciated. 



THE l'ACIFH' MONTHLY -ADVERTISING SECTION. 



EDUCATIONAL 



EDUCATIONAL 



EMERSON College of Oratory 

WU. J. IOUI. t. M., LIIL B., h nH i l t 

The largest eeuool of Oratory, IJteratnre 

and Pedagogy <» America. Ilalmatode- 

eeiop In Um student a knowledge of his 

empower* In expression, whether aa 

a .-rraiivethinkrr or a-i Interpreter. A 

m beautiful new bonding. Svauucf ete- 

lt*t eiuns. liraduatcear* agoctat to teach 

^f nralory. Physical Collar*, Dramatic 

h Art, Literature. Pedagogy* TTth year 

' open* Tuesday, Kept. mitt. Address 

"IlKMtY 1 VV. Kl >< t -Mil I II WICK lie.* 
I kl.l. r rl»« 11.11. II«>1I>«MI. *«■«, H.-I..H, Maaa. 




Abbot Academy A & d .°.Y. r ' 

111! I. mitl, rrinapjl. TTtkt'sr. (.redualr. rtcrtii e sn<] college 
reaaratory coene*. Crnincitr admits to Smith, Vucar. Weilcsicy. Ml 
illliita Pie* gess**ts, raodcra bu:Muig». Crmnuam. Tennis, 
Hhal hell. I..II. Address \i.i...i Aradeiiiy. 



Edgeworlh Boarding and Day School 

For Girls »»■ •>•'►■ *s»* ■■«■■• asrrauesa ... .**> 



122 l 



Mil. II. P. LF.FF.BVRF. | 

Mini. I>. HINTLKY I 

1 24 W. f ranllin Street. ■ 



Ptincipala 



JiAaaACHi-aima, Box J, Wnt Newton. 

Allen School 

A school for whnlraome boye. College preparation. Orrtifl- 
ca'.r* given. Small Junior Department, Athletic Director. 
Illoatraled catalogue Qeacr ibea ape clal feature*. 

Our students are 
employed by the 
Covermnent. Good salaries paid to those 
appointed. J.et us train you for an examin- 
ation. Tuition low, information free. Write 

PACIFIC STATES SCHOOLS 

MCKAY BUILDING. PORTLAND. OREGON 



YOUNG MEN 



HILL 



MILITARY 
ACADEMY 



A Hoardi n g and Day School for Buy*. **■***! Training. 
Military Discipline. College Prryarsrlon. Boys of aay age ad- 
mmed at ur time. Write lor llluaraled Caralognr. 

Dr. J. W. HILL, Proprietor and Principal 
PORTLAND, OREGON 




Walker 

inessCollcde 
.-•rye)/.* y**» 



Safeguard Your Future 

By Business Preparation 

In the Bchnkr- Walker Buaineaa College. We are In 
cloec touch with all the important North wrat buaineaa 
houaea, and place our atudentain good poaitiona when 
competent. This isthedcaring house for busincae men. 
Enroll for day or evening claaaea,— achool open the 
year round. Send for handsomely illustrated catalog 

ELKS BUILDING, PORTLAND, OREGON 



Q tosf/ye/ej 
)Wb\f\\L 



©1 




i i n ii vn:t:i:i in i hi -r \i:k 

I.oa Angelea, California KataMi-li.il lHH'i 

PACIFIC 

TEEILEGRARH 

School ^otnmercuU. K. R. and Press Work. Poamoaa. tta year. 
417 \V. Fifth Street. Log Angeles, California. 



J? O Tt T L JL IS I> J±. O Jk. r> E in y 

The nineteenth year opena September 16. 1907. 

The Academy proper fits boy* and girls for Kaatera and Western college. 

A primary and graramcr school receives boys and girls as early aa the age of 6, and fits them for the 
Academy. 

A gymnasium in charge of a skilled director. Track and field alheletica. 

The Academy haa a boarding hall for girls, well appointed and under excellent care and supervision. 

For catalogue or further information addreaa PORTLAND ACADEMY, PORTLAND, OREGON 



f tZ§E$%g# FOR STUDENTS 

DURING VACATION MONTHS 

WK HAVK an exceptionally attractive proposition 
to offer to those young men and women who desire 
employment during the vacation months. 1 It is a 
strictly high grade proposition. 1 We want live represen- 
tatives in every section of the U. S. 1 The time to make 
your contract is now, before the best territory is taken. 

1 Our representatives make money; the lowest average 

is $5.00 per day, the highest $12.50. 1 "It's up to 
you" as to what your mark will be. 1 Write today, 
stating territory you prefer, and give references. Address 



l>«>(M«rt merit 



Pacific Monthly Pi blismim; Co., Portland, Omgon 



Da not forget to mention The I'ariSe Monthly when dealing wllb advertiser* It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



ATLANTIC CITY 

TKe Wiltshire 

Ocean End or V lrgima Ave. 




Convenient to all Piers, Attractions, Amusements 
and Bathing Grounds. 
The Cuisine is Unsurpassed. 
Wide Porches, Large Public Rooms, Ladies* Writ- 
ing Room, Ladies' Parlor. New 
Cafe, Barber Shop. 
AN UP-TO-DATE HOTEL. 
Local and Long-Distance Telephone in Rooms. 
American and European Flan. 
Our Motto — " Service and Comfort." 
Send for Booklet and Rates 

S. S. PHOEBUS, Prop. 



HOTEL 
MARTINIQUE 

Broadway, 32nd and 33rd Sts. 



TNDER the same management 
**J as the famous Hotel St. Denis. 
The same prompt, quiet service, 
and the same splendid cooking that 
have made the "St. Denis" famous 
among the older of New York 
Hotels can now be obtained at the 
magnificent new Hotel Martinique. 

HEasy walking distance of theatres 
and the up-town shops. Convenient 
toallferries and every railway station 

WE TAYLOR & SON 

PROPRIETORS 



PITTSBURG, PCNN. 

HOTEL SCHENLEY 

Surrounded by three acres of lawn and gardens, 
away from the noise and smoke. 
Absolutely Fireproof 




The Leading Hotel in Pittsburg 

Opposite the Six Million Dollar Carnegie Insti- 
tute and Library, also the Carnegie Technical 
Schools. Wire or write and Automobile will meet 
you at Union Station and take you to Hotel in 
ten minutes. The most attractive Hotel in Penn- 
sylvania. Send for Booklet 

JAMES RILEY, 

Proprietor and Manager- 



THE NEW KENMORE 

Albany, N. Y. 




Strictly Flee Safe 

ONE OF THE BEST HOTELS IN THE CITY 

EUROPEAN PLAN 

$30,000 SPENT IN IMPROVEMENTS 

SI-GO and upwards. 100 Booms and Bath. 175 Rooms 
with Hot and Cold Running Water. Special attention 

C' \ to Tourists. Long Distance Telephone in every 
m. Ouisine and Service Unexcelled. Five minutes' 
walk to Onpitol Building and all Theaters. Two 
minutes from Union Depot. 

BUSSES MEET ALL TRAINS AND BOATS 



OAKS 
J. A, 



HOTEL CO. 
OAKS, Prop. 



Don't "forget to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing with advertisers. It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY ADVERTISING SECTION. 



THE 



HOTEL LANKERSMIM 

LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 



roruLAi 

PIKtS 

j 6 

Pn.jtf Mk 




EVERY ROOM AN OUTSIDE ONE 

COOPER & DAVIS 

I.KSSKI S 

CORNER SEVINTH STREET AND BROADWAY 



The PORTLAND 

M. C. BOWERS. Manager 

The Leading Hotel of the 
Pacific Coast 



European Plan Only • Rooms 
$1.00 per Day and Upwards 
Handsome Restaurant — Music 
Every Evening 8.00 to 12.00 



Headquarters for Tourists and 
Commercial Travelers 

PORTLAND, ORE. 




Americas Most Beautiful Resort 



ALL 



GOLF OUTDOOR AMUSEMENTS BOATING 

TENNIS 4 FISHING 

Thousand .^land Ho^f& Alexandria Bay, N.Y 

onthest.l|.v^rence river. 




M0^N*JIU« J" J 1 » y- 3 * 1 ' £'_ WtSSILllL.|yJO-ST 

APPOINTMENT ^"*™>* booklets and rates PICTURESQUE 

O.G. STAPLES Proprietor 

RIGGS HOUSE! WASHINGTON D.C. O.G. STAPLES PROP. 



rg«r to mention Tb» l'«rl«c Monthly wbn <tralinr with «dr»Tlt»r». Il will h» apprwlated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVEKTISING SECTION. 



The August Pacific Monthly 



Every now and then a person likes to go 
somewhere for dinner and leave the menu to 
the chef. It is a great relief at times not to 
know what you are to have to eat, just so there 
is assurance that all will be well-dressed, well- 
cooked and well-served. 

The Editors have prepared a great variety 
of excellent dishes for the epicure who likes to 
dine at The Pacific Monthly table. We shall 
not inform you what the dishes are. 

We have kept in mind the season, the de- 
light of all gourmands in delicately flavored 
and rare entremets, in substantial and savory 
meats and in luscious dressings. 

Pictorially and from a literary standpoint 
The August Pacific Monthly will be charming. 
It will begin two new features of surpassing 
interest to all Western Americans. It will 
mark a departure---a further step in the pro- 
gress of the only Western magazine. 

We shall ofFer all our readers the best that 
the market affords; and because we feel that 
this issue must speak for itself, because we are 
confident that nothing we could say would 
half bespeak the gratification that the number 
itself will evoke, we are silent. 



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THK PACIFIC MONTH!. V ADVERTISING SECTION. 



LOST STORIES 



FV»r every story fashion. 'd by th' 1 hand of the fiction writer out of lift*. 
■ dozen never gel beyond the ear of some casual hearer. The finest *t 

never are finished. 

How often have you heard a sentence in a crowd that awakened your 
curiosity.' IIow many times have you felt that no price would be too great 
to paj) for the completion of the story of which you heard only :i little.' 
Mtists affirm that, given a fish scale, they can reconstruct the tish : 
"firen the hone found in a heap of ruins in Montana, the geologic ami 
bioloL'ist together can deserihc the animal it belonged to and tell its history. 

Tin- first of American short -story writers held it as an article of faith 

thai from the lirst chapter of a novel be could deduce the whole plot to 

its climax. 

On this Pacific Coast all the best stories in the world have their de- 
nouement. Hut we h.ar only a word here, a sentence there, an exclama- 
tion yonder. 

Can the story-writer reconstruct the human drama from a word 
The editon of The Pacific Monthly are going to make the experiment 
We L'ive bohlll an actual transcription of an incident and a conversation 
heard amid the throng. For the Deal storv. working out this to a beginning 
and an end. we shall pay not less than TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS. 

Scene : A street car. A woman is in one of the seats, her hand luggage by her side 
bearing various foreign labels. She is young, evidently a stranger. She gases tranquilly 
out of the opposite window till a young man gets on the ear and takes his seat ofposite 
her. A third man jumps on the ear, addressing the eonduetor: 

Third Man — Say. conductor, what 's the time of day? 

Conductor (pulling at his wateh) — It V about — 

The Girl (to herself, putting her hand to the wateh at her hell, but withdrawing it 
hastily) — I wonder — could it be? 0-oh ! 

The Man (doing the same thimg and suddenly eatehing himself) — What if it should 
be that hour? (He listens for the conductor's answer.) 

Conductor — It 's twenty minutes to three. My watch is slow just — 

The Girl (looks at the man and lowers her eyes. He returns her glance and 
flushes. She murmurs, softly) — Kven now I'm not sure — it might be that his watch is 
wrong and it is that time. But I dare n't look! 

The Man — I knew it would come! 

The Girl (looking oirr at him) — Jim! 

The Man— Edith! 

The Girl — And I haven't been »blc to look at my watch in the afternoon smcr yon 
counted those secouds — before he — {breaks off , sobbing.) 

The Man — I sold that watch. But every afternoon about — this time— I wonder. It 
was two years ago ! 

The GtRL — And we never saw each other — till now. And he — 

The Man (suddenly leaning forward)— He— he never knew the time. 

The Girl — Jim! 

The Conductor — Washington Street! 

There are no restrictions on writers except that they shall, to the best 
of their skill, logically work out the elms L'iven in these actual episodes 
into good short storiea Solutions will he received until Oetobpt 1. 1907. 

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THE PACIFfC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



SEASHORE AND COUNTRY COMBINED 




Our own Automobiles to Rent. Public Garage and Auto Supplies 

SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED BOOKLET 

Season June 27th to September 12th. 
Until June 25th Address, Hotel Wadsworth, Boston, Mass. 







Cape Trinity 



NIAGARA TO THE SEA 

The grandest trip in America for health and pleasure. The Thousand Islands, Rapids, Montreal, Quebec, 
and the famed Saguenay River, with its stupendous Capes "Trinity" and "Eternity." 

Send be. postage for illustrated guide to THOS HENRY, Traffic Manager, Montreal. Can. 
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THE PACIFIC MONTHLY ADVERTISING SECTION. 



HOLLADAYS ADDITION 



TKe feotfr-phical CENTER of Portland. 

Tktt moat DESIRABLE and only exclusive re.i- 
dencc district in th« City. 

A level plateau well drained, 150fect above river. 

Command- a fine view of tKe City, tke river, Mt. 
Hood, Mt. St. Helena, Mt. Adam* and aurroundin^ 
country. 

I* very accessible and witKin eaay walking dis- 
tance of the buaineaa district. 



Haa one Hour more SUNLIGHT than over the 
river. 

Haa improved street*, fa*, electric lights, water 
mains, trolley lines and acwer*. 

Lots sold on advantageous terms to home-builders. 

Seeing ia believing. Locate your home where it 
will be a comfort and a joy and an investment that 
is certain to enhance in value. 



THE OREGON REAL ESTATE CO., 
88# THIRD STREET. Room 4. PORTLAND, OREGON 



ARIZONA CORPORATION LA WS 



the molt liberal in the I'nltrd 
States. No franchise lax. B 
holder, exempt from all corporate debu. No public statement! required. Capitalisation doeanrt t fleet o at. 
Fie very small. Charter* cannot be repealed by s beequent legislation. Hold stockholder, and directors 
meetings, keep bookaand transact business anywhere. Any kiid of stuck can be issued and paid up in cash, 
services or property and made nonassessable. T rritorial officials prohibited from serving companies. Book 
of forms for corporate instruments and procedure, by-lisrs, minutes, proxies, notice,, etc., gratis with each 
incorporation, write or wire for free copy of laws, b'anka ani fuM particulars. 

SOUTHWESTERN SECURITIES X INVESTMENT COMPANY 
P. O. Box S 3BB Phomnlx, Arizona 



THE HOTEL HAMILTON 

is a delightful place in the 



ARE YOU GOING TO ST. LOUIS? 

Best Residence Section and away from the noise and smoke, yet within easy access. 
Transient rates, $1.00 to $3.00 per day, European plan. SPECIAL RATES 
BY THE WEEK. Write for booklet, Address, W. F. WILLIAMSON, Manager. 



TRIAL CAN FREE 




The Kind 
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For Floors. Furniture. Wood- 
work: Oak. Cherrf. Mahogany, 
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ENAMELS FOR OLD OR NEW WOODWORK 

Wears like Cement — Dries over night with 
Brilliant Gloss. Contains no Japan or 
Shellac. Write at once for Free Booklet, 
Color Card and List of Dealers. 

-parent "Floor-Shine" for Hardwood 
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can by mail free; send ioc (to pay postage); 
enough for a table, chair or a kitchen cabi- 
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Address FLOOR-SHINE CO., St. Louis, Mo. 

"// you art a dta.hr writ* for tkt aotney 



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SEND 




for 250 Cactus 
Paper Clips 

Mr. B usi es— Man — Don't an pins 

fasten joor letters, etc.. with. It mu- 



tilate, jroor papers and 
us I j to handle— the - 



makes them 
points often 
woandlne the Borers. The "Cartas'' 
I'sner Clip Is simple. effeetlre end Ines 

Coslee— Made 1 to GO sheets firmly. 
nd lor with roar name and address 
snd we'll mall 700. box of SM 
"Cactus" Clips, pastas, paid. Write to- 
day. 

Cunningham, Curtiss 
and Welch Company 

252 South Spring Street 

Los Angeles, California 



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THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



138 Million Circulation 

The Department of Commerce and 
Labor reports that the aggregate circulation 
per issue of newspapers and periodicals pub- 
lished in this country is as follows: 

Daily newspapers 21,042,294 

Weekly, Semi-weekly and Tri-weekly 39,965,695 

Monthlies of all classes 62,776,155 

Quarterlies 11,709,655 

All other classes 2,878,594 

A total of .138,372,594 

It seems almost incredible that so much periodical litera- 
ture should be absorbed by the people of this country. This is 
surely a nation of readers— no family so isolated but that it may 
have its daily or weekly paper and monthly magazine. 

The average American is thus kept alive to the progress of 
the world—he is keen, alert and well informed and he comes to 
rely upon his favorite publication for information and mental 
stimulus. 

Here is where the advertiser comes in and this is why he 
finds so receptive an audience— millions of readers who are ready 
to hear what he has to say. But bear this in mind— the one thing 
that gives value to a medium is the influence it exerts in the 
community. 

In making a choice the first question to be askea ana answered 
in regard to any publication is WHO reads it? 

Ask that question about Scribner's Magazine— and then 
advertise in it. 

RATE #250.00 PER PAGE. 

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, Publishers 

153-157 Fifth Avenue, New York. 

Western Office — 153 Wabash Avenue, Chicago, 111. 
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TIIK PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



FICTION FOR SUMMER READING 



A WOMAN'S WAR. By Warwick Deeping. 

A story of the rivalry of two women, whose husbands arc rival doctors in the 
little English town of Roxton. The story is strongly and finely wrought; it is 
rich in interesting events and character -.unlit--, both grave and humorous, and 
throughout there is the delightful environment of charming English people and 
English homes. 

Post 8vo. Price, $1.50. 
BUD. By Neil Munro. 

Bud is a little Chicago girl, who comes to live in an old-fashioned Scottish 
village. Her unexpected depths both of ignorance and precocious knowledge, her 
breezy ways and Chicago slang are all in delightful and diverting contrast to the 
slow conservatism of the little town, and her staid Scotch "aunties." There is no 
pause in the delicate humor and captivating simplicity of the tale. It is charming 
from cover to cover, and absolutely new. 

With Frontispiece. Price, $1.50. 

THROUGH THE EYE OF THE NEEDLE. By W. D. Howell.. 

Done in this great master's most delightful style, this novel tells the w1iiihmc.i1 
story of how a certain kind of what might be called socialism really works. A 
charming love story of an American woman in Altruria — a country which ha- DO 
money, and where cooks and lords, farmers and poets are all alike. 

Price, $1.50. 

THE CRUISE OF THE SHINING LIGHT. By Norman Duncan. 

"The people who move through the story arc wholly new acquaintances, the 
like of whom we have never met before. Nothing better has been drawn since 
Dickens, and it is an open question whether Dickens himself ever eclipsed Nick 
Top— a compound of the pulpit and the foremast." —San Francisco Chronicle. 

Price, $1.50. 
THE MYSTICS. By Katherine Cecil Thurston. 

A new novel — a story of romance and mystery in London by the author of 
The Masquerader. Scene follows scene with the same persistent excitement and 
breathless fascination. 

Illustrated. Price. $1.25. 
THE INVADER. By Margaret L. Woods. 

The astounding, bewildering story of a woman with a dual personality. "A 
situation almost as piquant as The Masquerader," say- the Chicago Record-Herald, 
"and it may be depended upon to keep people up nights." "The dazzling changes, 
the bewildering transmutations of the heroine, are not only plausible but al> 
ingly interesting." — London Telegraph. 

Price. $1.50. 

THE PRINCESS AND THE PLOUGHMAN. By Florence Morse Kingsley. 

A charming idyll of American life, embodying a sweet and novel love tale. 
"The princess" is an American girl, with whom "the ploughman" falls in love and. 
later becomes her knight-errant in a most romantic manner. 

Price, $1.85. 

TO THE CREDIT OF THE SEA. By Lawrence Mott. 

A book full of the salt and savor of the sea. -i.irtlingly real in the dramatic 
scenes in the life of the brave fishermen off the "Banks" and Labrador coast. The 
heroism, daring, and self-sacrifice which make up so large a part of their careers 
are vividly displayed. 

Illustrated. Price. $1.50. 

THE LONG TRAIL. By Hamlin Garland. 

le of adventure, which, like Treasure Island, will please older readers even 

more than young folks. It is* rich in outdoor adventures, perils and bravery — a 

thoroughly enjoyable hook, describing a lad's overland trip to the Klondike gold 



fields. 

L 



Illustrated. Price, $1.25. 

HARPER y BROTHERS. Publisher. 

NEW YORK 



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THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



THE LAND WHERE THINGS GROW 



There are homes for thousands in the 
Klamath Basin where the United States Re- 
clamation Service is building an irrigation 
system to furnish water to 250,000 acres of 
land adapted to extensive farming. 

It is land that will produce the most pro- 
fitable class of crops, including sugar beets, 
celery, asparagus, potatoes, wheat, oats, bar- 
ley, rye, alfalfa, timothy, vegetables and fruits. 
Several thousand acres under irrigation de- 
monstrate its adaptability. 

The largest body of standing soft pine 
timber on the Pacific Coast is the basis for 
great lumber industries, insuring home market 
for products. 

Lines of railroad under construction will 
soon link this region with both Portland and 
San Francisco, and through these ports of the 
Pacific to markets of the world. 

There is very little agricultural land open 
to homestead entry, but choice land can be 
bought at reasonable price in tracts of 160 acres 
or less. 

An ideal section for the poultry grower, 
gardener, dairyman, stockman or feeder, with 
rare business openings. 



KLAMATH HAS SOMETHING GOOD POR YOU 



For Further Information, write to 

Klamath Dev. Co. frank Ira White Klamath Co. Abstract Co. or to 

Hot Springs Imp. Co. Mason & Slough Wilbur White, C. H. McKendree 

J. W. Siemens Klamath Com. Agency of Klamath falls. Ore. Chas. B. Pattee, 

Klamath Co. Bank first National Bank Bonanza, Ore. 



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TIIK PACIFIC MONTHLY ADVERTISING shVTIOV. 



. M 




MANUffimjREO- 
J3YTHE- ' 

>OKANE RrTLSH I 
COTCHUPCO,; 





W 



DOLLARS FOR YOU 

It in not a question of what you can do with your hands. It is a question 
of how shrewd a business man or woman you are, how much foresight you 
have — those are the qualities that make fortune*. 

Just so surely as there was money for the stockholders in the H. J. Heinz 
Co., in the Grape Nuts Co., in the Royal Baking Powder Co., and countless 
others just so surely is there money in the Spokane Relish & Catchup 
Company for you. Share in the profits of the business with us. 

Stock Now Sells for $1.26 per Share 
A Advances are in Sight. 

T<f» We have unlimited quantities of fruits and vegetables, nothing 

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We have excellent railroad facilities, and a local 

demand alone sufficient to consume all this 

output. No competition in the 

West. These are a few of our telling 

points. *XfV7VREi{ 

You as a thinking man wantbot 
torn facts. Right now while you ^\lnD£raiPL. 
think of it sit down and fill in 
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Vol. XVIII 



Jl'LY, l'.)()7 



No. 1 



The Rod on the Pacific Coast 

By Charles F. Holder 

Author of "The Log of a Sea Angler," "Life in the Open," etc. 



?c»x 



\2/ 



,T has become somewhat of a 
by-word, especially in the 
bit, thai California or the 
Pacific Slope claims all the 
big things of the continent, 
and investigation will show 
that then is bohm juatilhulii n for the asser- 
tkm; the most Iw ulifiil aaanery, the highest 
mniinlains. the lajrg— ( trees, most extensive 
parks, fruits and flowers of extraordinary 
mould; and last, and bj no means least in 
the estimation of the angler, the came lishes 
of the adjacent waters are of seemini:! 
loasal size and found in e u T i e ep ond'ngrj 
numbers. This is true more or less from 
S;iii 1 >!«>■_'< i tn Victoria, the entire coast line 
himlllin big gSBM fishes of some kind from 
l"\vtail to the bit; salmon which tills 
the Columbia and other streams, affording 
spurt with the BpoOD and rod. 

In Southern California, or from San Diego 

to Monterey, the big fish angling ia at its 

•id. when narrowed down to the very 

heat, is confined to the region south of Point 

Conception, ns here are found habitually a 



variety of large fishes more or less peculiar, 
as the black sea bass, yellowtail, tuna and 
albacore. 

The shores of the Pacific are in the south 
mainly sandy beaches, as Coronado. Santa 
Monica. Long Beach, liedondo and others, 
upon which the sea rolls in heavily and with 
endless roar. These condition! do not favor 
the approach of large fishes as the tuna. 
albacore, yellowtail and others, hence the best 
lairing is usually found where rocks are in 
evidence, or offshore. Thus the Coronado 
Islands are famous fishing grounds and fur- 
ther north a hundred miles we come to the 
islands of San Clemente and Santa Catalina, 
the former tiovernment land, and both 
affording, without any reservation, the finest 
sea angling known. 

Vou may catch yellowtail and other fishes 
off San Diego or Bedondo and Portu 
Bend from launches, but you are opposed to 
the prevailing wind and often, though not 
always, in a sea which is a d e ci ded detriment 
to successful light-tackle rod fishing; but at 
the two islands mentioned the angler has the 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




Along the Fishing Grounds, Santa Catalina. 



perfect conditions which have made tuna 
fishing with a light rod possible. These loca- 
tions seem to have been designed by nature to 
afford the very best facilities. The islands 
lie northwest and southeast ; their greatest 
length opposed to the prevailing winds, thus 
giving what is practically from ten to twenty 
miles of perfectly smooth water, which is in- 
dispensable for real rod fishing. 

Santa Catalina is about twenty-two miles 
long and San Clemente a little less. They 
are mountain ranges at sea; the many 
canons as they reach down forming the only 
harbors or coves ; and along shore, not twenty 
or more feet from it, the angler finds water 
as clear and smooth as some inland lake, 
where he can play the largest fish with ease 
and comfort. 

This is to a certain sense true of the islands 
off Santa Barbara, but conditions are not so 
good as at t he places mentioned or at Santa 
Catalina, as at the latter there is a town of 



5,000 or 6,000 people, three daily boats in 
Summer and a boatman contingent of one 
hundred or more skilled men with boats de- 
signed for the purpose, the result of experi- 
ence among the big fishes. At Monterey Bay 
and at Santa Cruz very similar conditions 
prevail, but the former places mentioned are 
ideal for the fishes taken there on account of 
the perfectly smooth water. 

The season in Southern California begins 
in April, sometimes earlier, when the first 
run of yellowtail is expected; though I have 
taken them every month in the year; this fish 
weighs from fifteen to forty pounds and is 
a type of all that is gamey and hard-fighting. 

The yellowtail comes in myriads, it is the 
game-fish of the people, a hard-fighting 
swash-buckler of the sea, that requires no 
skill to take on a hard line, but upon the 
nine-ounce rod of the Light Tackle Club the 
fish becomes a game indeed, well calculated 
to demoralize the tyro, often giving him the 



UNIVI 




Th* Author, Charle, F Holder. Bringing a Big Fi»h to Uaff. Captain Harry Dot, Gaffer. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




Avalon From the Top of Sugar Loaf. 



fight of his life. I have seen a thirty-pound 
yellowtail jerk a full-grown man from a 
dock, and once saw a woman weighing at 
least 200 pounds brace back screaming at 
the top of her voice ; the yellowtail line was 
fast about her waist and a big fish was threat- 
ening to haul her over. 

Fishing in Southern Cal : fornia is a delight- 
ful diversion. We may imagine ourselves 
starting out some Summer morning in May; 
the sea is perfectly calm, and one by one 
the boats are stealing out of the little bay of 
Avalon, heading south for seal rocks. The 
boat is a launch sixteen or twenty feet long, 
with a six or eight-horsepower engine amid- 
ships, and two comfortable seats for you 
and your companion facing the stern, the 
boatman behind you acting as gaffer and en- 
gineer. Once in the open water, near the en- 
circling kelp beds, you unreel about fifty feet 
and with the sardine baited rods to right and 
left the launch moves slowly along. 

If you fail in the fishing, the v'ew is de- 
lightful, the air is soft and balmy, the lofty 
stone cliffs sublime, but you are not to fail, 
as suddenly z-e-e-e-e goes the reel. Some re- 
markable force jerks down the rod, tears off 
the line, and has 100 feet of it before you 
come to and press the thumb upon the leather 
brake, and then comes a series, a volley of 



plunges, down, down, down, z-e-e-e-e, pecul- 
iar to the yellowtail, taking fifty feet more. 
And then you stop him, and, seizing the reel 
handle, begin to reel and then to pump, an 
operation accomplished by lowering the rod 
tip to the surface, lifting three feet, then 
dropping rapidly and reeling quickly as you 
drop, thus making eight or ten feet of line; 
in this way sulking yellowtails must be lifted. 

Up he comes, and after awhile you see a 
glistening silver spot against the vivid blue 
far below, the fish resplendent in tints of 
silver, gold and green is swimming around 
in a great circle, head down, bearing against 
the line with all its force, coming slowly up, 
until you have it at the surface, when it 
breaks away with irresistible runs, snatching 
the rod down to the water, gaining all you 
have made, and so the moments slip away 
until twenty are gone and you have the splen- 
did creature at the quarter, a vision of 
beauty, glistening, scintillating; then the 
gaffer seizes his steel, drops the hook beneath 
the white throat and with a jerk impales it. 
and in a cloud of spume tossed into the a'r 
by the fish, hauls it in. 

Your companion is also in the toils, but 
the play is entirely different, on the surface 
and away, stealing line, tearing it from the 
rebellious reel, making a vigorous resistance, 



tiik rod ON Till-: PACIFIC COAST. 



it breaks water 200 feet away, swings 
md and makes a splendid circle, the 
angler taking advantage of the move and 
i-i-.-lniLT for liis life, the big multiplier eating 
up tin- line, brings in the game, until it is 
seen racing along over the smooth sea, a 
radiant. Ug eyed creature that soon comes 
;itT. an.l proves to be an oceanic bonito 
that tips tin- scale at ten pounds, a lusty 

fellow that « les in with due protest. We 

have run into a school of bonitos of two 

kinds, the MOD i Summer fish of the 

waters— the so-called Skip Jack plays on 
the tight rod and line like the oceanic form 
on the surface, and comes in a sparkling 
i iridescent peaeock of the sea, a blaze of 
dazzling colors. 

\V. bait again and are soon speeding 
■long the edge of the kelp, the launch hav- 
ing SOBM to a standstill at the galling. There 
m ...asional strikes of rock bass, an at- 
tractive tish having a close resemblance to 
the ordinary blnck bass of fresh water, but 
it is now a nuisance and the several catches 
up to rive or six pounds do not count. 

The end of the island is the line of de- 
markation between perfect calm and a fresh 
west wind, and rounding it the loud bark of 
sea lions is heard, and the rookery is in 
sight, covered by the big glistening creatures. 
Then z-e-e-e-e goes the shrill alarm of the 
reel, the boatman seizes his lever, throws off 
the power and the rod is bending, leaping as 
though a living thing. Another yellowtailt 
Hut the gaffer watching the line shakes his 
head. There is other game, but it is too 
near inshore for albacore or sword fish, and 
may he a white sea bass. There is certainly 
a change in the style of playing. There are 
no volleys or rushes downward, but a ter- 
rific strain, occasionally a rush off, if not 
on the surface, very near it. indicating a 
large flsh of some kind, a stubborn resister. 
Slowly you make line, reeling inch by inch. 
now giving a foot or twenty, when the fish 
rut i.l.lenly the boatman seizes his 

gafT, and a huge grey-colored tish. seemingly 
long and slender, rushes into the 1 ne of 
vision and makes a splendid circle of the 
boat while you start to your feet excited by 
the spectacle. 

"White sea bass and a rouser." cries the 
gaffer, lingering his weapon. "Sixty pound- 
ire, sir." 
11. w all this makes the blood tingle in 




A Big Yelloictail, Weighing 19 H I'oundt, Caught 
b v Mr. C. ft. Duffy. 

your veins! It is the supreme moment, just 

the gaff, the big fish coming ID 
and nearer, and as you sweep the rod to the 
left an.l round him up. the gaffer lifts quick 
ly. surely, and holds up the splendid game, a 
fifty-pound Kastern weak tish. known here 
as the white sea bass, a gorge. .us fellow. 
i|uivering with hlaz.ing colors of the tonnna 
line, altogether too gorgeous to kill. 1 
splendid lishes (ogMMfe») often sail ma- 
jestically into the little canon ha\« ..I Santa 
Catalan and lie there for days, affording 
sport of a remarkable character. 

I have taken Ave or six averaging fifty 
pounds in three or four hours, and others 
equally large, with the nine, eighteen and 
twenty one thread lines as experiments. I 
have drifted over the kelp beds in a glass- 

Ix.t i boat, looking down upon a school of 

scores of these fishes of large size, all OUt 
four feet in length, an exhilarating spectacle 
to the angler. Hut the most extraordinary 
view of these fishes I have ever had was in 
August in Monterey Bay at Capitate, an 
attractive little town at the mouth of the 
Soquel River, which reaches away up into 
the Santa Cruz range. A number of Italian 
tishennen make their headquarters there and 
set nets alongshore, and in the morning they 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




Typical Aval 



Boat Used in Tuna-Fishing. 



come in loaded deep with white sea bass, or 
sea trout as they call them, ranging from 
thirty to nearly one hundred pounds. 

I found it almost impossible to hook sal- 
mon in these waters at times, as the white 
sea bass were so numerous that they seized 
the bait first, and for once in my life I did 
not want to catch them, but could not help 
it. One complacent fellow I remember was 
poised in the center of a school of anchovies 
which formed a perfect ring about him four 
or five feet across, a gorged monarch of all 
he surveyed. 

One of the charms of angling in Southern 
California lies in the varied catch. It is the 
unexpected which is always happening, and 
two or three years ago a totally new fish 
came in, which has in the months of August, 
September and October afforded anglers a 
vast amount of novel sport. The fish was a 
small edition of the tuna in appearance, 
ranging in weight from forty to eighty 
pounds and averaging fifty. I have been 
familiar with the fishes of the Southern Cali- 
fornia islands for twenty years and know 



boatmen who have fished there for forty, and 
this fish, which was the Japanese Hirenaga, 
was never seen there before. 

It resembled a typical tuna, all but the 
side fins, which approximated those of the 
albacore, but were not so long; and the fin- 
lets, instead of being a pale yellow, were of a 
vivid lemon yellow hue. The upper portion 
of the fish was green, the lower blazing sil- 
ver, altogether an attractive fish. Th'S tuna, 
as the boatmen call it, really a species of 
albacore, has none of the appearance or fight- 
ing characteristics of the latter, and is a 
game fish in every sense. 

It appeared to lie deeper than all the rest, 
but to be in the same great school with them. 
and when large numbers were present — 
albacores, tunas and bonitos — it required 
some skill to hook them before the lesser of 
the rapacious throng carried off the lure. 
Some anglers found it convenient to take 
them by luring them about the boat with 
"chum," the new fish rising suddenly out of 
t lie deep blue water to seize the bait if the 
attentions of the other fishes could be eluded. 



Tin: hod on Tin: pacific i OASl 



The liirenaga plays entirely differently from 
any of its kin or allies. Sometimes it sounds, 
like the king of the tunas, but according to 
Mr. L P. Streeter, the well known expert 
sea angler, this fish almost invariably, in 
some period of the battle, rushes nwn n 
the surface after the fashion of some of the 
bonitos, affording tine sport, as even with the 
mighty tau pumping becomes wearisome. 

The liirenaga, when it strikes, often 

plunges to the bottom, taking 300 or 400 

feet of the line, and often breaking it in a 

lions manner near the hook; again, 

when well hooked, it will rise to the mrfaM 




Haul 



*na Up the Beach. 



and race away, when, according to Mr. 
Streeter. the best method is to put on full 
speed and send the launch after it. a chase 
often of several hours ensuing before the 
hard fighter is b rough t to gaff with the deli- 
cate thread-like line used, known as nuinlK>r 
nine. Vast numbers of these beautiful fishes 
were taken in 1904-6-6, and anglers are an- 
ticipating a royal season with them in the 
Fall of this year. 

The tuna is one of the most interesting 
of all game fishes, and s nee attention, in 
1887, was called to it by me and my capture 
of the first very large tuna, in 1S99 (183 




Bonlto. 

pounds), interest has not lagged. I have 
found great masses of tuna bones in the In- 
dian mounds of Santa Catalina Islands, dat- 
ing back, possibly, a thousand years, and the 
tuna is found in almost even- part of the 
world, known in Norway as the thun fish, at 
Cape Cod as the horse mackerel, at New- 
foundland as the albacore, in the Mediter- 
ranean as tunno. The French know it as 
\e than and the Germans as der thun Fitch. 
It is very emit V. Boom years it appears on 
all these coasts in vast numbers, then it will 
almost disappear for a few years, to reap- 
pear again, playing havoc with small fry 
all along shore. 

A very singular feature bearing upon these 
fishes is, that nowhere in the world except 
on the coast of California at Santa Catalina 
have anglers succeeded in taking the leaping 
tuna with rod and reel. This is not on ac- 
count of lack of attempts, or the lack of 
tunas elsewhere, as the big game is found in 
many seas. 

One of the greatest of English sea anglers, 
Mr. F. Q. Aflalo, author of numerous books 
on angling, gave me an interesting account 
of his attempt to take the fish with rod at 
the Madeira Islands, an ex|iensive trip result 
bog in failure. I have repeatedly, at 
request, given Nova Scotia and Newfound- 
land anglers data regarding our Pacific Coast 
tuna and the methods of procedure followed 




Japan ft Mbarnrr. the Sew flame Fl*h In 

Southern California. Five Hundred Were 

Caught With Rod and l.iie In 1»0«. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




Street in Angling City of Avalon. 



on this coast, and have been assured that the 
fish were there. Anglers have repeatedly at- 
tempted to take them in the Mediterranean, 
but everywhere failure has been the result. 
At Madeira Mr. Aflalo found the sea too 
heavy. In the Mediterranean the tunas would 
not bite, although they were there in thou- 
sands. On the North Atlantic and around 
Cape Cod the fishes run up to 1,000 pounds, 
and a Canadian angler wrote me that it was 
dangerous work even with a handline. Men 
had been jerked overboard and killed by them ; 
indeed, in every location where the gigantic 
fishs have been habitually seen there is some 
fatal obstacle to their capture with rod and 
reel, and a number twenty-one line, and to 
date a tuna over 100 pounds has never been 
caught with rod and reel outside of the waters 
of California. 

I have fished for the large ones off 
Oganquit, on the Maine coast, and although 
my boatman told me he had seen "a 900- 
pound tuna take a dogfish from a boy's 
hand," I did not succeed in getting a strike. 
I also investigated the prospects at Province- 
town in 1905, but the fish were too large and 
uncertain, and 1 concluded that while a stray 
tuna may be picked up with a rod and 
twenty-one-thread line in some part of the 
world, it will never take on the importance 
of a full fledged sport. 



The reason why Santa Catalina has a mo- 
nopoly of the sport is, that the majority of 
the tunas seen here are just the right size, 
ranging from seventy to 300 pounds, 250 
pounds being the rod record of Colonel C. P. 
Morehouse. Again, the configuration of the 
island having a length of twenty-two miles 
running northwest and southeast is such that 
it forms a perfect lee thirty miles out at sea. 

The tuna is a sea rover, a fish rarely, at 
least on this coast, approaching the mainland 
shores or beaches, but the island of Santa 
Catalina is twenty or more miles out in the 
Pacific, a mountain range rising out of water 
that not far away is a mile deep, hence is a 
favorable spot for wandering fishes, as the 
albacore, oceanic bonito and others. They 
come to its shores or vicinity to either spawn 
or follow their prey, the flying fish, the big 
tunas chasing them into the open but smooth 
bays between Avalon and Long Point; and 
here in a range of but four miles of shore 
almost all the tuna fishing has been done, 
and a series of battles conducted which have 
aroused the attention of the anglers of the 
world, and of laymen, too, so graphic and 
sensational were they, and if the mere inci- 
dents of these various contests could be col- 
lected, it would make one of the most re- 
markable stories of angling ever told, com- 
parable only to the contests between men 



T1IK 1,'uli ON THE PACIFIC COA81 




Hmnttnp a Bio Ban* In Br Photographed at Santa fntnltna. 



and the big game of land, Indeed, if com- 
porinwi were not od i on s, I should toy that 

tiger-hunting and tnk ng I big tuna with n 
rod anil reel were spurts in t lie same elans, 
yet I once related to a friend, who hnd shot 
in India from the safe hack of a tall 
elephant, my experience in playing a 
183-pound tuna for four hours without a mo- 
ment** cessation, ami he decided that he had 
the best of it. as for five hours he sat in the 
liowclah smoking cigars and being fanned by 
an attendant while wailing for the tiger to 
be lira ten up. and then shot the animal as 
it ran across a clearing thirty yards away. 



Such an ex|>erience is a species of ely-ium 
compared to the pitched battles the anglers 
who have tr'cd conclusions with the leaping 
tunas can tell, of tight from start to finish. 
which had no let-up, and was continued for 
'i"iii>. tights which laid many strong men 
low. battles in which the fish sometimes wore 
out several men. at the end of which the 
tuna was as fresh as ever, to all intent 
purposes. 

I have killed with rod line or grains almost 
even- large fish — the big ray twelve feet 
across, saw fish, black grouper. Itahamian 
barracouda. tarjx'n n Texas and Florida. 



10 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




Albacore Caught With Rod and Line at Santa 
Catalina. 



Florida jew-fish, black sea bass, sword fish, 
and almost all kinds of sharks from the ham- 
mer head to the great grouper shark of Cali- 
fornia, but for hard fighting and persistency 
I award the palm to the big leaping tuna at 
his best, not the tuna exhausted during the 
spawning season or debilitated from various 
causes, but the sturdy well-conditioned nor- 
mal fish. 

To illustrate the power and vitality of this 
game, I may be pardoned for introducing my 
own experience. I first observed tuna of 
what I assumed to be a catchable size with 
the rod in 1886 at Santa Catalina Island, 
and I went on record in the Cosmopolitan 
Magazine as stating that they could be 
caught; but it was not until 1898 that I took 
the first very large one, a fish weighing 183 
pounds, and which I believed at the time to 
be very near the limit of angling possibilities. 

At this time, 1899, and for many years 
previous, the large tunas were seen yearly 
about the islands in vast schools, and anglers, 
having caught the infection, were flocking to 
the grounds, even coming from Europe to try 
conclusions with a seemingly impossible game, 
as the regulations of the Tuna Club only 
allowed a twenty-four line and the twenty- 
one was invariably used, and I have taken 
tunas with a number eighteen. 

Mr. Heverin of New York was my fellow- 
angler, the boatman was "Jim" Gardner of 
Avalon. Gardner's boat was a wide-beamed 
yawl and we sat side by side on a board, with 
rods to port and starboard. It was a beau- 
tiful morning when we pushed out of Avalon 
Bay, and as we paid out the big flying fish I 



knew that I might have a strike at any mo- 
ment, as the morning before the tunas had 
surrounded us as we left the bay and sent the 
flying fishes over us in schools. 

We had reached the outer point of the bay 
and the sun was just breaking through a 
bank of crimson clouds when I saw two 
mimic waves racing up astern, then two reels 
screamed z-e-e-e. My companion groaned, 
and I alone was in the toils of the tuna. They 
had taken both baits, and Mr. Heverin's line 
had doubtless been cut by the dorsal fin of 
my fish, so he retired from the contest, went 
aboard the consort, a big launch, and watched 
the biggest game fish, up to that time ever 
caught, play with me. At the first run the 
tuna had taken 300 or 400 feet of line, taken 
it so quickly that I could no more than play 
with the leather brake, and 100 feet more 
went after it. All this time my boatman 
was backing water as fast as he could to get 
sternway on the boat, ready for the vital mo- 
ment when the strain came on the line. The 
tuna took 550 feet before I felt that I had 
stopped him, and he was far down the deep 
blue channel when I saw that he was towing 
the heavy boat by a mere thread, one of the 
real marvels in sea angling. 

This fish towed us a mile out to sea, then 
a mile in, then four miles up the coast to 
near Long Point, then a mile inshore, so 
near the kelp that I feared the end would 
come, and all the time I was pumping, lift- 
ing, reeling, stopping tremendous thefts of 
fifty or one hundred feet, which I had gained 
only after the greatest d'fflculty, and when 
near shore it suddenly seemed to go mad, 
running around at the surface, then suddenly 
starting south, and, it should be remembered 
that all this time my boatman was rowing 
against the fish, trying to wear it out in 
fruitless efforts. 

Three hours passed in this way without a 
moment's respite, and I began to feel numb 
all over. I had, many years before, been 
well hardened by fencing, broadsword, foot- 
ball, single sculls, and other lusty sports, and 
I had put in some strenuous times behind 
racing game which I had speared in Florida, 
but this was different. I was holding the 
rod on my left side every second, the strain 
never letting up, and the unseen steed towing 
the heavy boat by my arm and the thread 
that would break at the slightest overstrain. 
I knew that my line would stand a dead 




/ ito 



12 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



weight of forty-two pounds, and the angling 
proposition was to avoid the over-pressure, 
but how? 

The frantic lunges of the fish were demor- 
alizing, and now it began a series of actions 
I had never seen or heard of in any tuna, 
which convinces me that this fish was one of 
the hardest fighters ever taken. It would 
dash away, taking my hard reeled l'ne by 
yards until there was little left, then rise to 
the surface and come at me as straight as 
an arrow, its big dorsal cutting the water, 
sending a wave ahead, a sensational spec- 
tacle that brought me to my feet to watch it 
while I reeled for my life in the attempt to 
take up the line it was making for me. 
When it reached within ten or fifteen feet of 
the boat it turned and dashed away with a 
velocity that made the reel hum and groan, to 
bore down into the deep channel and ham- 
mer on the line. This peculiar movement, 
of a nerve-racking nature, the fish repeated 
several times, and then, as I turned it, the 
tuna headed for the south and towed me four 
miles, reaching at the end of four hours of 



constant fighting with reel, rod and oars, the 
almost identical position at which it was 
hooked, having in the meantime towed the 
boat four miles up the coast and four miles 
down, and several more in and out; in all, 
ten or twelve miles, and there, at the entrance 
to the little Bay of Avalon, in the presence 
of a launch load of spectators, who had been 
following the fish, I brought the game to 
gaff, almost on the verge of a collapse, due 
to the extraordinary physical and nervous 
strain, as there was constant fear that the 
thread-like line would chafe off at the swivel. 
As I brought the splendid fish to the 
quarter after a heart-breaking spurt, Gardner 
gaffed it. The tuna, which we now saw was 
a monster, gave a conclusive leap and shiv- 
ered the big gaff and ga'ned fifty feet of line 
before I could stop it again. I reeled it in, 
and once more Gardner gaffed it, and, step- 
ping on the side of the boat to bring the rail 
down to the water's edge we held her while he 
cleverly slid the big fish in. We raised a cheer 
as the biggest tuna ever taken leaped about, 
threatening to hammer the boat to pieces. 



The Old Trailer 

By Charles B. Clark, Jr. 



Far across the sunny ranges, 

Up the foothills, through the pass, 
Winds the trail we used to travel, 

Rainwashed, now, and dim with grass. 
It is hard to trace, old pardner; 

Only we know where it lies — 
We that learned its lonely reaches 

With the sunset in our eyes. 

You can trace it down the ridges 

And along the canon rim. 
But a steel bridge leaps the river 

Where our horses used to swim. 
Our old lord i.-. full of quicksand, 

And the old, blazed trees are down: 
Gone to feed the hungry engines 

In some smoky minin' town. 

Do you mind that stretch of prairie 

Where we fought the reds away? 
Hi! old pard. do you remember 

How the bullets hummed that day? 
Now it 's farms and green alfalfa 

'Stead of open, grassy plain. 
And our wild, old trail is sobered 

To a sleepy, country lane. 

Further on you 'd hardly know it. 

All the old landmarks an- changed; 
There are gardens, now. and orchards 

Where OUT saddle horses ranged ; 
And the trail is cut to pieces, 

Crossed with road and fence and lawn. 
Till at last you eMM to asphalt. 

And the dim. old track is gone. 

Gone — the years fly on, old pardner, 

And the last, taint wheeltracks fade: 
We are scattered like the ashes 

Of the camplires that we made. 
Our old trail is nigh fotgottaa; 

Fields are green and cities rise 
Where we camped and fought and journeyed 

With the sunset in our eyes. 




He Had Brought Him to the Woman That Loved Him at the End of His Rawhide Rope" — See 

page 21. 



Carmelita 



By James Hopper 

Author of "Caybigan," etc. 




- inday out of every live 
or six, the priest of Monte- 
comes to Cannel and 
celebrates the mass. It is a 
psMaing thing to see. Sud- 
denly the old mission palpi- 
tates with a ghost of the life that has long 
departed from it. The crooked old beadle 
tugs at the iron gates; nodding like palsied 
ancients they advance creakingly out into the 
sunshine. Into a hole of the heavy petrified- 
wood portals he inserts a ponderous key; 
there is a whine of recalcitrant metal, a 
groan as of sore bones disturbed, a clang, 
and the portals rasp upon their massive 
hinges. In the dark interior, damply smell- 
ing of earth, candles begin to flare one by 
one, sending blue wisps of smoke straight 
up into the vaulted obscurity above; their 
flames fall in round yellow halos upon the 
tlaked adobe walls, and in the profundity 
behind the altar vague saints begin to glit- 
ter. An invisible billow of incense rolls 
•~l:.wlv the length of the nave, spreading 
searchingly in comer and recess. Then. 
overhead, there sounds out over the land the 
cooing call of a sweet-toned bell. 

Hut, already, along the road, along the 
paths, there are faint heralding rumors — 
champings, cliekings. voice murmurs, hoof- 
beats, soft whinnies— and they MOM riding 
in leisurely, the vaqueros of the ranches, 
swarthy men with faces that, somberly sm- 
when at rest, tight np in liqnid caress 
of eye and tenderness of mouth when they 
smile. Furry chaparejos descend from 
fheir lithe waists to the tips of their small 
boots; their sombreros, soft flap to the 
breeze, rear back cavalierly, and red ban- 
danas, knotted loose about their bronzed 
necks, enllame their costumes with a note 
lor. They sit their deep saddles as if 
they had been poured molten into them, 
their waists giving elastienlly to the swing 
of the fox trot 'H"> come, spurs tinkling, 
tapadero chain click-clicking, curb bits rasp- 



ing and ringing, ■long the roads, along the 
paths, or simply down the field where four 
teen Governors of California, with com- 
mandantes, capitans, tenientes. alcaldes, the 
best blood of Aragon and Castile, lie buried, 
their stubborn pride replaced by that after- 
life affability which leads to a cheerful of- 
fering-up of one's bones to the success of a 
potato crop. The horses champ, throw back 
their heads, fleck foam into the air, and 
their masters, as they come into view, raise 
their right hands in courteous and lazy sa- 
lute, their low-pitched voices carrying with- 
out effort their soft, negligent greetings 
across the sun-warmed distance. Arrived. 
they slowly dismount, loosen the cinches and. 
dropping the long reins to the ground, leave 
their horses to stand behind the crumbled 
adobe huts, once busy human hives in the 
care of the padres; a little stiffly, they walk 
to a low hummock before the church and sit 
side by side, the blue spirals of their cigar- 
ettes rising in the tranquil air. 

It is a pleasant moment. The yellow sun, 
striking the yellow facade of the holy cdt 
flee, rebounds in a pinkish halo; its heat re- 
bounds upon the men, who stretch their limbs 
to it. eyes closed to slits, like purring cats. 
They talk, in that tongue of theirs, at once 
sonorous as a cataract and liquid as the gurg 
ling of a bottle, of simple things the barbe- 
cue at Seargent's. the rodeo at Blair' 
their horses, the feed, of the chances for 
rain, of the ' <n/< in the new hnrn. And then 
sometimes they are silent, the poignant 
charm of the land heavy on their s>ul«. 
which understand not. 

It is a gold and -il\er land. The sun 
pours down yellow, but in the di-tance there 
trail diaphanous \eils of silver haze. The 
earth, crackling with the balsamic dryness of 
Summer, is I color symphony that runs from 
argentine velvet to copper lacquer. It rises 
toward the east in tawny swell-, along the 
arched backs of which the downy brown hues 
vacillate as with the shudder of a long 



16 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



caress, till, as far as the eye can see, it is 
assaulting; heaven in purple surf. To the 
north, there are russet stretches, bound by 
the dark plush of a pine forest. To the 
south lies the Carmel, the gnarled cen- 
tenarian pear trees of the departed padres 
standing in the black soil of its overflowings, 
and between them, like plashes of color 
dropped from an impressionistic palette, 
rotund pumpkins shine; the valley streams 
off to the west in a streak of light verdure, 
the pears giving way gradually to willows 
and aspens and other feathery, shimmering- 
barked plants; then comes the lagoon, jade 
green, the beach — a bar of gold — and then 
a cove of the Western Ocean, blue with a 
blueness that astounds the soul. And there 
is a warm buzz of bees, a cooing of doves, 
the soft tongue-snapping of quail; a hawk 
circles free high overhead, swallows streak 
across the sky in long diagonals, and, per- 
haps, his beak like a rapier in the bosom of 
a swooning rose, a humming-bird palpitates 
iridescently. 

Meanwhile others are coming — two or 
three rattling surries, drawn by shaggy 
horses, each holding an astonishing number 
of children all akimbo with starch, herded 
by worn women overcareful of their pitiiui 
finery; some servant girl from the Inn, two 
miles away, trudges in, her plain nose red, 
her blue eyes bulging patiently, her skirts 
raised from the dust which covers to the 
ankle her crooked-heeled shoes, leaving to 
view a bit of striped and wrinkled stocking — 
and, perhaps, from the aristocratic hotel at 
Del Monte there sweeps in, with a great 
self-announcing blare of horns, a yellow 
tally-ho, top-heavy with buzzing and colored 
femininity which avalanches down the 
wheels, flutters over the ground, like a bevy 
of butterflies, and finally is engulfed by the 
dark portals from within which, for a mo- 
ment, come a few last little cries with their 
false intonations of unfelt emotions. And 
the dark men outside look at each other and 
smile an indulgent smile which has in it a 
sense of superiority. 

Finally the bell rings again, and simul- 
taneously, through the vaulted portals, comes 
the sonorous murmur of the padre's voice. 
The men on the hummock throw away their 
cigarettes, rise, a little reluctantly, take a 
last deep breath of the scented air, pass the 
threshold, dragging their sombreros off their 



heads, dip their fingers in the onyx fount, 
and then mass themselves on both sides of 
the door, where they remain standing, proud 
even before God. Over in front, banked like 
flowers, is the tally-ho party, fluttering and 
derisive, out of harmony, as it is the fate of 
the Anglo-Saxon to be, nearly always, 
throughout the world. Behind are the dark 
women of the surries, with their over-colored 
bonnets, encumbered with sticky babies and 
starched children. Upon the steps of the 
chancel kneels the humble servant girl of 
the Inn, bent over the railing in an ecstacy 
of prostration. The priest, his shimmering 
back to the people, his glowing eyes upon 
the tabernacle, descends and reascends, opens 
and closes the holy book, with wide gesture 
cleaves the air in signs of the cross; his 
resonant words vibrate along the walls. 

But beneath the stone pulpit which hangs 
from the right wall, a round bulge of it, 
entered only through a mysterious little door 
which nowadays seems always sealed, there 
sits a woman who, after a time, draws all 
your attention. She is beautiful. From the 
side you see her profile, firm and pure as the 
crest of the Sierra against a sunset sky, and 
long, ascending lashes beneath which violet 
shadows deepen; and if she turn, you lose 
yourself in her eyes, big and dark, with a 
lurking golden light in their black pro- 
fundity. 

For the first part of the service she is 
submerged in a devotion which is not calm, 
which is passionate almost to agony. When 
she kneels it is with outspread arms that al- 
most embrace the beaten earth; when she 
crosses herself, her fingers, at each station, 
stab her flesh; when she rises, it is with a 
violent upspringing that threatens to take 
her oft' the earth, illumined, into celestial 
heights. And then at times she places both 
forearms over her head in a warding ges- 
ture, and she cowers beneath the stone pul- 
pit as beneath a malediction. 

But, little by little, as you watch her and 
the mass sweeps on toward the end, a 
change comes over her, a new preoccupation, 
altogether different, takes possession of her. 
It is a worldly one; at first it shocks you. 
She sits upon her bench, and slowly an olive 
flush rises to her cheeks; she turns, often, 
with a wistful look toward the blue sky and 
golden land framed by the open portals; her 
lips part, her breath quickens, a tremulous 



• AKMKL1TA. 



17 



impatience vibrates through her slender 
body, an ecstatic expectancy glows in the 
depths of her eyes. At first shocked with a 
disillusion at this fall from divine piety to 
earthy care, little by little you become rec- 
onciled, you are carried away by the inten- 
sity of the new emotion, the flaming beauty 
of it : and finally with sacred awe you say to 
jrotrrwtf: 

"She will meet someone, there, at the door; 
she Ibh i P 

The priest, from the height of the altar 
steps, turns to the people; with an ample 
gesture he draws before their eyes an im- 
palpable cross; there is a subdued rasp of 
pushed benches, a flapping of skirts, the 
faithful '.rather in groups and stream toward 
the door. 

The woman you have been observing rises 
to her feet with a gasp, alm< 'litem. 

But a singular movement takes place. As 
she goes down the aisle, an old white- 
bearded man — her father, he seems — takes 
bar by the elbow; three swarthy young fel- 
lows — her brothers, they seem — are them- 
selves behind her; and the priest himself. 
slipping off his stole, hurries after the 
group. She glides toward the doors, her 
lips parted, her breath coming a little fast, 
her eyes very liquid; she reaches it, she 
stands before the streaming gold of the land. 

And then, suddenly. l>oth her hands go to 
her heart, clutching the fit— -li ; I gFMrf cry 
- her mouth, rounded with horror; she 
bends, her arms outspread, she is on the 
point of throwing herself down u|w>n the 
flagging, there, at her feet. 

But the father, passing an arm about her 
. the brothers, closing tight about her, 
urge her on down the slope toward the little 
red-tiled house among the pear trees; the 
. from behind, with loose hand throws 
after her the peace of a benediction. And 
as, surrounded and tenderly forced on by the 
four men. she sweeps on down, there conies 
to the curios -roup still at the portals a loin;. 
palpitating aob, full-banked and dolorous, 
with nothing in its tone that promise 
of isolation. 

It is from I>on Jose Jesus that I obtained 
interpretation of this scene. Don Jos£ Jesus 
has an old white nag (all that remains of the 
20.000 horses. .".0.000 cattle and 100,000 
sheep owned three generations ago by the 



Almavodars), and a tig tree in a little adobe- 
walled garden (this being all that is lett of 
the grant made to his great-grandfather, and 
which read, in words of magnificent careless- 
ness, "from the ocean to the top of the 
mountains"). Upon the horse, pacing slow, 
lie rides along the roads, stopping here, stop- 
ping there, a sort of universal father to the 
people of his race who now, in this laud, are 
the disinherited: beneath the tig tree he sits 
of warm evenings, reflecting upon what he 
has seen the day, and his brown eyes grow 
mminous, and his mouth takes mi a whimsical 
smile, which has in it Mime humor, and much 
tenderness — the tenderness that inevitably 
eomes to him who is full of understanding. 

He (old me this story, one Sunday morn- 
ing, in the rebounding warmth of the mission 
walls, as the priest, within, murmured the 
sacrifice, and the bees, about us outside, 
hummed in harmony. 

"When Carmclita was born, senor, she waa 
the first daughter and came after sis sons. 
So her father. Manuel Molvino. who is now 
sitting inside the church, his gray beard upon 
his knees, mounted his pony and sprang 
down the rond with the news to his old com- 
padre, Juan Kspcm. It was nearly sun 
down; Kspero was sitting on the bench below 
the window of his cabin, and upon his knee 
he was tossing the two-year-old Juanito, first 
son and only child. There and then, bis leg 
thrown lazily across the saddle, his right 
hand stretching out a glass that glimmered 
red to meet that held high by Kspero, Man 
uel pledged the little daughter to the little 
son. '.I la noria de fstrd; to your betrothed.' 
he said, nodding gravely over the trembling 
contents, to .luanito, who sal perched ii|m>ii 
hi- father's shoulders — and Juanito. Hid 
denly seized with a strange sadness, ojiened 
his mouth in a tremulous wail. The men 
laughed. -He'll think better of it lat- 
ehT said Molvino; 'Ah, yes, it will be dif- 
ferent — say eighteen years from now — very 
different.' chimed fapOTO. Ami for a mo- 
ment the two stood there silent, looking for 
ward with some melancholy at the future 
thus suddenly evoked. 'Kighteen years.' 
murmured Molvino .and shook his bead. 'A 
lot noi-iiif" he shouted, again raising his 
glass till it shone ruby against the crimson 
sun; '.I tat H'.ri.,." repeated Ks|>cro— and 
they parted, a whimsical satisfaction in their 



18 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



souls at this arrangement of the affair. But 
as in the horizontal rays of the darkening 
sun Molvino rode away, there came to him, 
fainter and fainter, but plaintively persist- 
ent, the wail of Juanito; and when he ar- 
rived at his own house, over there among 
the pear trees, Carmelita, from the depths of 
her crib, was sending forth a bitter little 
cry. 

"Senor, from the first there was a differ- 
ence in the manner in which the children met 
the purpose of their elders. Juanito ac- 
cepted it stolidly. Nearly every Sunday he 
would be taken to Carmelita and be told to 
kiss her. I was often present, for I like to 
pry into homes and hearts, not out of malice, 
senor, but because I wish to understand. I 
want to understand; for I have found that 
the more you understand, the less is there 
motive for shocked exclamation, for condem- 
nation, the more mellow is your outlook to- 
ward man — and I want to ride mellow- 
hearted along the roads till I die. So I was 
often there, at this inter-familial ceremony. 
At first Carmelita was always in a crib, a 
warm palpitating thing that at times smiled 
vaguely at the ceiling, at times cried softly 
with as little cause. Espero would hold his 
son up over the side of the crib, and then 
Juanito, very seriously, picking the place 
with great precision, deposited a humid 
smack upon the rosebud beneath him — after 
which he stamped off with an air of con- 
scious rectitude, while she, upon her pillow, 
squirmed with dissatisfaction. By the time 
that Carmelita was toddling the operation 
had become a more complicated one. When 
the customary command came, the two chil- 
dren stood a moment, legs apart, staring 
fixedly at each other. Then, when with lips 
thrust forward, he advanced, she suddenly 
dodged, her face against her right shoulder. 
At his next attempt, swiftly the little face 
circled to the left shoulder; and finally she 
turned and ran, hiding her head in her 
mother's skirts. Juanito kept up the attack, 
with a sort of sad resolution, but it was only 
when he had given up that, very imperiously, 
she placed her lips upon his. 

"The years went by; they were no longer 
babes, and she began to impose upon him 
the feminine absolutism. I saw them often 
together — in the orchard by the mission, on 
the hills, in the pine woods. He climbed 
trees for her, he scrambled over rocks, he 



tormented his body for her approbation. 
Once he broke his arm — for her; another 
time he was nearly drowned in the lagoon — 
for her. Sefior, there is something infinitely 
sweet in the tyranny of the one you love, is 
there not? The little boy was happy, ob- 
scurely but poignantly happy, I think. She 
was but a child, but already, senor, she was 
wonderful, wonderful with a beauty that 
penetrated. I can 't describe it. This only 1 
know; that I, a man, that day I saw 
Juanito, thin-lipped with repression, making 
his way back home with his right arm 
dangling along his side, envied him, envied 
him his suffering, the wound vouchsafed him 
in the service of her — and remember, senor, 
she was but a child. I envied him. 

"And yet, hers was a terrible despotism. 
It was, senor, as if by some secret instinct 
she had divined the disposition made of her 
by her elders, and as if, in detestation at the 
tyranny of it, she were taking out of Jua- 
nito a subtle vengeance. She delighted to 
make him ridiculous. She heaped upon him 
task after task, puerile and absorbing; she 
made him stand upon his head, she made him 
hop on one foot — and he always obeyed, 
grave while she laughed. 

"One day I came upon them walking to- 
gether along the Lobos road. She had 
pointed out an oak tree some distance ahead 
and had set him the task of hopping to it 
on one foot. I watched him from my horse. 
I wanted to see if he would keep it up 
while I looked. He did. His fealty was 
something above self-consciousness. He 
hopped along as if I did not exist — with 
that queer seriousness which contrasted to 
her amusement with the ridicule of the deed. 

"Suddenly, however, he stopped short. 'No 
mas' he said; 'No more.' 

"She turned upon him in angry astonish- 
ment. 'Hop to that tree,' she said, her eyes 
flaming. But he said only, 'No mas,' and 
stood still. 

"I waited, greatly interested. There was a 
rumble of wheels along the road, and I 
thought that I knew the reason of his re- 
volt. The cart neared; in it was Roy Glea- 
son, the young son of the Gleason who owns 
all the land from Monterey to Salinas — yes, 
the lands of my grandfather, of her grand- 
father, of all our grandfathers, I suspect. 

"He pulled up his Shetland and looked at 
the group with curiosity. Carmelita smiled 



CARMELITA. 



19 



up at him. •What's the matter with him?' 
he asked. [Mfjnting to Juanito. whose eyes 
were fixed u|>on the ground. 

'"I want him to hop to that tree, and he 
wont do it,' said t'armelita suavely. 

"The hlond boy looked down noon the lit- 
tle 'greaser.' "Want to ride ho .'' lie asked 

Carmelita, with unconscious disdain ig no r in g 
at once the quarrel and Juanito. 

"Td like to,' said Carmelita. 

"lint as she was stepping into the cart. 
Juanito sprang toward her. 'You can 't go 
with him,' he said, in a colorless voice — and 
his fingers sank deep into her ami. 

"i.et me go; let me go,' said Carmelita, 
very low. showing no pain, but tense with 
cold rage. 

•■You can't go,' repeated Juanito, be- 
tween his teeth, and his fingers npon her ami 
tightened. 

"The young Saxon had been watching the 
scene with the detachment of the superiority 
(rained into him from boyhood. Suddenly 
the whip with which he was toying rose into 
the air; it whistled down across Juanito's 
face. At the same time Carmelita sprang in ; 
the whip came down upon the pony, and the 
(•art rattled down the road. 

"Juanito watched I hem disappear down 
the curve. After a while he passed his hand 
across his forehead, where lay a red welt, and 
began to walk. 

"For a moment I had been paralyzed by 
the suddenness and cruelty of the thing. 
Now 1 tried to comfort him. He gave me no 
attention, but walked on, in the direction of 
the cart, stolid and sad-eyed. 

"The next day. when he met her, he said. 
• iday ynii rode with Boy lileason when 
I did not want you to. You will never do it 
again.' 

" 'I will.' she said, her cheeks aflame. 

"They stood before each other a long mo- 
ment, he calm, a melancholic inflexibility in 
his eyes; she flushed, luminous and vibrant. 
He was fourteen, and she was twelve; they 
were children: and yet a wind of tragedy 
blew upon them. and. without knowing it. 
they both trembled. 

"But the matter came to no issue. A 
few days later Ks|>ero, the father, was given 
a foremanship "ii a Wg eattle ranch of the 
South, and. with all his family, including, 
of course, Juanito, left the country. 

"When Juanito returned, six years later. 



senor. he was Juan and a man; and Carme- 
lita was a woman. 

•lie was a tall, lean fellow who sat his 
horse as if his spine were made of spiral 
springs. Though he brought from the 
southern cattle ranges a reputation for iron- 
like endurunce and ureal skill with the nata. 
a languor was in his movements, and his eyes, 
black-circled and heavy lidded like a wo- 
man's, had in them that sadness— that sad- 
ness mixed with inflexible stolidity which 
had so drawn me when he was a boy. 

"And Carmelita— Carmelita, senor, had 
merely bloomed : and it was a magnificent 
bloom. It may be that the Ave years spent 
in the convent at San Francisco had some- 
thing to do with the finite jierfection — you 
were vaguely aware of a certain repression 
of manner which made only more evident the 
flaming life beneath; you were aware of an 
art in dress which, uniting with her native 
love o! color, gave picturesque results; 
vaguely you knew that her voice was a 
golden contralto, like the resonance of « 
bell after the clapper has stilled. I say 
'vaguely,' because, senor, you had no chance 
ever to analyze these things — the eyes drew 
all; the eyes drew your brain, your heart, 
your soul, your eternal soul, within then 
mysterious depths, Senor, after gazing a 
moment into those eyes — and they tugged 
like whirlpools — after seeking to catch for a 
few seconds the golden tints elusive within, 
one woke up with a great sigh to the ugli- 
ness of the sunshine and the flowers and the 
sky. and they— the sun, the sky, and the 
flowers — were forever spoiled for you; they 
were spoiled to you forever, senor. 

"She was not happy. Her mother was 
dead. Her father, what with the caretaking 
of the church and the freezing of his veins 
with age, had become a black bigot; he half- 
sequestrated her and a deep and true in- 
stinct within her commanded her, senor. to 
let the rays of her beauty flow along the 
land, just as it is the irresistible impulse of 
the moon to shine, of the sun to pour life, 
of water to quench thirst. And so, there 
were unhappy moments— moments when, up 
in her little garret room after sundown, as 
with lifted curtain she watched the young 
people rattle to haile* at t'annel or Monterey 
in wagons freighted with laughter and song, 
a surge of longing pressed up to her throat, 
hurting: or when, at the mere sight of a 



20 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



youth and maid sauntering off ingenuously 
together after mass, a sadness descended 
upon her, a sadness that was indefinite, but 
that clung like a net, and was heavy as lead. 

"Juan returned, and old Molvino, remem- 
bering his plan, let them be together. And 
so, the first night, they met here, senor, at 
the church. You see the steps that rise along 
the wall, there, to the belfry? They went 
up these steps, and they stopped there, at 
the angle ; and it was a moonlight night, and 
the scene like at theater. And I, senor, 
was in the belfry, right up against the bell; 
and I was watching, as I watch now, not out 
of malice, but because I wish to have good- 
will toward men. I would not have stayed, 
senor, had anything sacred come to pass ; but 
nothing sacred passed, although they de- 
ceived themselves into thinking so. 

"They stood there in the little angle half 
way up, and about them the whole world 
shimmered to the moon. Within them, senor, 
I think the old relation of their childhoort 
days still obtained. He showed it outwardly, 
in his very posture, in his grave and secure 
manner, which at once promised protection 
and took for granted possession. But with 
her, the true feeling within, of negation, I 
think, of revolt against a fate forced upon 
her by men, came not to light. You see, 
she had been too unhappy. Instead, she 
placed both her hands upon his right shoul- 
der and, bending her brow upon them, began 
to weep softly. 

"I heard his low voice vibrate once or 
twice in short words of tenderness; his right 
arm rose and clasped her, and she, leaning 
closer, wept in long free flow her grief and 
self-pity. Then between sobs she began to 
beg him not to leave her — and she called him 
'Juanito,' and her little child-lover. And so, 
insensibly, she plighted her troth to him 
again, plighted of her own will the troth 
plighted for her years before as she wailed 
in the cradle. You see, senor, how things 
work out? It was all natural ,and inevitable, 
and well-meaning — all natural and inevitable 
and pure; it had to be; dont you see, seiior? 
And yet, what was to come of it, what was 
to come of it ! 

"Senor, you should have seen Juan ride 
away that night. His happiness, pulsing 
within, stretched his being; when he turned 
upon his big black horse and raised his right 
arm in farewell gesture, his fingers seemed to 



touch the stars. But she, senor, stood a long 
time, there on the moonlit steps; a wind of 
doubt blew upon her — and she shivered. And 
when at last she walked slowly back to her 
little house under the pears, both her hands 
were tight up against her heart, and her head 
was bowed very low. 

"And now, seiior, see how things are ar- 
ranged. The next day Juan left for the 
upper Sergeant ranges, where he was to be 
line rider for three months. A week later 
old Molvino was called south by a dying 
brother. And a few days later Roy Gleason 
began again to loiter over the lands of his 
father. 

"For several years he had been on the 
Atlantic Coast — at Harvard, I think; and 
often we saw in the local papers of Monterey 
and Salinas proud clippings from Eastern 
sheets in which he was mentioned for some 
athletic prowess or other. He was their 
prime footballer, at Harvard, I think. And 
the first thing that he did when he returned 
was to win the tennis tournament at Del 
Monte. Then he took a liking for the coun- 
try of his youth. He would head tally-ho 
parties to the old Mission, or buzz along the 
coast in a big red automobile; but most of 
all would he ride. He rode a sleek bay with 
cropped mane and docked tail, very fine of 
legs, and of astonishing speed, which he sat 
English fashion, with little hornless saddle 
and short stirrups. We 'd see him all the 
time, along the roads, across the fields, jump- 
ing fences. He went coatless, usually, with 
a soft white shirt turned down at the neck, 
turned up to the elbows, his feet encased in 
small yellow boots, each with a toy-size silver 
spur, his head bare, with the light brown hair 
parted at the side — and he was a handsome 
boy, senor, beautiful with a sort of clean, 
sane, sunny beauty. Once I heard him laugh 
as his hunter, urged at too high a fence, 
scraped over with all four hoofs — and the 
joy of it was like rippling silver. 

"Of course, senor, it was inevitable, that 
they should meet; that they should meet and 
that the blue eyes should lose themselves in 
the black; that the black should hold within 
them some of the blue, just as the sea holds 
the blue of the sky. Passing one day the 
cottage in the pear trees, I saw him upon 
his horse, stopped before the gate, and, lean- 
ing upon the gate, was she. A few days later 
I again saw them there; but he had dis- 



CARMELITA. 



21 



mounted and. the bridle over Ids arm. was 
also UanfasJ mi the gate. Then lie took t>> 
bringing an extra hoiM with liiin. and they 
rool the country together, tumultuous and 
joyous, like children. And after a while, 
senor, this also changed; their fresh young 
voices rang DO longer tree; their laugh was 
lii-aid now hnt seldom rippling over the stub- 
ble. They began to seek the woods, shaded al- 
leys; often, forgetting, they let their horses 
walk slow side by side, and it was only when 
their stirrup*, swinging idly, brushed against 
eaeh other as in caress that Cannelita. lean- 
ing forward, urged her horse to one of the 
former mad prankish dashes that day by 
day came less often, ended sooner, came back 
more irresistibly to the dreamy loitering 
side by side with their taste of sweet melan- 
choly. 

"And then, senor, there came the day when 
they no longer rode, when they left their 
horses behind ; and, sefior, when maid and 
man with horses prefer to wander a-foot — 
it is very serious. It was the Fall of the 
year, an arid, golden Fall, and they wan- 
dered in a golden land, and their dreams were 
as the silver hazes. Up on the slopes of 
the round mountain yonder, you can see the 
sun set behind the rocks of Lobos; it be- 
came a daily adventure to them, to see the 
sun set behind Lobos. But little by little 
they came to arrive earlier and earlier at 
their station to see the sun set; and, before 
it sets, the sun beats down very warm on the 
golden arid slopes. They would lie there 
upon their backs, side by side, without touch- 
ing each other, hour after hour; the sun beat 
upon them; it beat upon the land till there 
rebounded from it a hot sweetness like in- 
. and, senor, one day, beneath this tor- 
rential pouring of heat and life, senor 

or. it was the eve of San Carlos, pa- 
tron saint of the Mission, and the next day, 
from all over the country the people thronged 
to the mass. And as the bell there above rang, 
senor, she came across the ground from the 
little house in the pears. Senor, a new 

beauty was upon her, a beauty more u- 

plex, palpitant with new ami contradictory 

emotions. There was shame, shame coming 
upon her at sudden intervals, before she 
could guard herself, and which mantled red 
her cheeks and bowed her head; ami there 
was tenderness, a brooding tenderness that 
made her eyes luminous with n liedewed light. 



■ light tillered. M it wen-, puritieil. through 
a tilm of tears ready to well; and above all, 
surging through |,er in waves that swept 
aside all other foaling and left her tense and 
vibrant, there was pride, a great singing 
pride — the pride of the woman who has 
given nil, who has given herself, sefior. for 

lava. 

"Sefior, .lunn had come down from the 
range and was waiting there at the doom; 
and by that deep instinct. 1 suppose, vouch 
safed to him who loves, he saw the transfor- 
mation and mysteriously he understood. I 
saw him pale as his eyes fell ii|hiii her. I 
heard the quick intake of breath; and as 
she neared, and confirmation poured into him 
in a black tide, slowly his right arm was 
stiltly rising to the horizontal, till as she stood 
before him, it stretched straight with in. lex 
finger pointing, pointing her out to the peo- 
ple and to God. 

"She stood before him, still, a moment, 
staring without comprehension at the tinker 
pointing, at the eyes behind, glowing with 
accusation; a wave of shame whelmed her. 
she bent her head. She raised it again ; the 
brooding tenderness was in her ey< 
brimmed in tears as she looked upon Juan; 
her hands went up. with a little shrug of the 
shoulders, then came down swiftly, slapping 
her thighs, in a gesture that expressed the 
inevitable. Fate, the irrevocable all the 
fatality that weighs upon the race — and then 
in a great surge there rose through her the 
Pride — and like a goddess she went by him 
and into the scented obscurity of the church. 

"\\ hen she came out again, senor, ahead 
of the people at the end of the mass, vibrant 
with a holy impatience, .lunn was at the 
doon up. 'ii his big black horse, rearing with 
clanging hoofs upon the Bagging. From his 
pommel his riata stretched in a taut diagonal 
to the ground, and there, at the loop end of 
it. in the center of the portal- and almost 
within the sacred edilice. was a nameless Ion 
thing which had been human. 

".lunn. armed with his terrible instinct. 
had ridden up the road, and meeting there, 
as he felt he would, his rival *"™*"g toward 
the church, he had brought him to the 
woman that loved him at the end of his raw- 
hide ro|M-." 

Don Jose! stopped: the index finger of his 
right hand went up in a gesture commanding 



22 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



attention. Inside, the drone of the priest 
had ceased; there was a vague rumble of 
moved benches, a hissing of feet — and in the 
full glare of the sun, she suddenly appeared, 
her eyes aglow with expectancy. She stood 
there a moment, her lips parted, her breath 
coming a little fast; then suddenly both her 
hands went to her heart, clutching the flesh; 
she bent down and, her eyes fixed upon a 
spot of the flagging where they was nothing, 
she screamed. 

But her father, her brothers, immediately 



closing about her, urged her down the slope 
toward the little house in the pear trees; and 
as she went down, the eyes of Don Jose fol- 
lowed her with a light in them that as- 
tounded me. 

"God guard you, Don Jose," I said; "you 
love her." 

He gave me a look full of a strange, wist- 
ful desolation. 

"I love her," he said; "1 loved her — ah, 
far better than did the others — may there 
be mercy for their souls." 



The Deserter 



By Mary Madison Lee 

Who dares go forth unsummoned from the feast 
Of life, too eager for the dark unknown, 
Who waits not for the word to be released, 
But braves the night, unbidden and alone, 

Him we call coward, we that stand and wait, 
Lacking the will to follow, though we deem 
That better things are there beyond the gate, 
Higher than hope, and deeper than our dream. 

Yet in the grasp of each there lies some key, 
That we might fit into the fast-closed door, 
That shuts us from the one great mystery, 
Barrier between the After and Before. 
He that hath courage thither let him flee, 
But we must call him coward evermore. 




s 




m f 



f/i*' Only Entrance. It la Very Shallow. 



The Hermit of San Nicholas 



By W. A. Tenney 

Illustrated from Photographs taken by J. C. Brewster 




0\V lew readers have ever 
seen in print any ac- 
count of San Nicholas Is- 
land. The name, even, is 
visible only on the recent 
maps of ( 'alifornia. The 
pioneer settlers of Ventura and Santa Bar- 
bara Counties, together with the survivors 
of the old Mexican race, relate an enter- 
taining tradition of what occurred on this 
terra incognita at a modern date; but tradi- 
tion, though a convenient foundation for a 
romance, is not recognized as credible his- 
tory. Some of the pioneer hunters, how- 
ever, left in writing a t hrill ntr narrative of 
what they personally witnessed on the island. 
This written account of thoroughly reliable 
eye -witnesses was published in the local his- 
tory of Ventura County while the witnesses 
were still living. In addition to the uniform 
recital of a generation not yet extinct, we 
have a corrohoratini; report in public docu- 



ments of what (ioveniment explorers found 
on Sau Nicholas at a recent date. The 
photographer, who accompanied the olli 
rials, has furnished us with the nronos taken 
by his camera. With this accumulation of 
cl ^connected material, accessible to very few 
readers, because long out of print, we ven- 
ture to compile a connected story in every 
way historically true. 

San Nicholas Island is eighty miles due 
south from Buena Ventura, and belongs 
to Ventura County. It is remote from all 
lines of ocean travel, situated in a storm 
center, with no sheltered harbor for large 
sea-going vessels, and with a roadstead un- 
safe for anchorage by reason of sudden and 
violent changes of winds. The pounding of 
the waves on the west side has opened a 
narrow gateway through the rock into a 
shallow bay. where small boats can comfort- 
ably land. The situation of the island is 
such that it is difficult to find an experi- 



24 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



IP;- 3 




I I 



I 




A Part of the Stone Forest of San Nicholas. 

enced navigator who is w lling to take tour- 
ists to the place, especially if expected to 
tarry for many days in the exposed offing. 

For half a century this spot of earth has 
been unpeopled except for the last few years 
by a lone shepherd of a flock of sheep. 

By Government survey the island is found 
to be nine miles long- and four miles wide, 
with an area of thirty-two square m'les. 
Some fourteen thousand acres are compara- 
tively level, with a seemingly rich soil. A 
few stunted thorn bushes comprise all the 
present timber, though excavations reveal 
the existence of an extinct forest. Indeed, 
the early fur hunters reported that more 
than fifty years ago they found a part of 
the tract covered with trees and shrubbery. 
Modern fires have denuded the whole ter- 
ritory. 

Vast quantities of land shells are found 
in the sand and in mounds, but not a living 
specimen can now be found of that par- 
ticular species, though they are still extant 



on other islands and the mainland. That 
these land mollusks were used for food by 
the primitive natives is self-evident from 
the segregated mounds of this species. 

Numerous circular depressions are found 
everywhere, indicating the location of pre- 
historic human dwellings. Dr. Bowers, the 
scientific expert of the Government survey, 
counted forty of these depressions near the 
boat landing, like the basements of a com- 
pact village. The mounds of sea shells of 
all existing species are immense. 

One of the most beautiful varieties of the 
haliotis (abalone) family is numerous on 
the mounds, but so far as known it is now 
extinct on the whole California coast. These 
shell mounds are a matter of surprise to 
every beholder. It is doubtful if the world 
has an equal. They extend over the most 
of the island, one be ng about six miles long, 
a mile in width and twenty-five feet deep. 

In some places beautifully polished peb- 
bles are constructed into pyramids of unique 
art. In the mounds of shells are inter- 
spersed bones of fowls, fish, seals and 
whales. Manifestly these artificial hills are 
composed of the refuse separated from the 
food of the extinct race. These s lent re- 
mains bear unmistakable evidence of the 
numbers of people who here made their 
homes for probably thousands of years. 

Wherever one turns his eye, broken mor- 
tars, pestles, bone implements and ingenious 
ornaments are seen. 

What little has been published about San 
Nicholas has long been out of print, and is 
now inaccessible to the reading public. 

There are shadowy traditions that San 
Nicholas was densely populated by an inter- 
esting people when modern history began 
to draw upon their barbarian shores. The 
discovery was much later than that of the 
other islands in the Channel group. Ex- 
actly where and under whom the first civil- 
ized visitors landed on this isolated spot we 
have no record to inform us. It is known 
that the Russian fur-traders, not long before 
the landing of the California gold-seekers, 
learned that San Nicholas was one of the 
most prolific resorts for the sea otter, and 
they took the earliest steps to bag the rich- 
est game. They accordingly shipped down 
a strong crew of experienced native Alaskan 
hunters, with all needed appliances and pro- 
visions, and the most improved rifles. The 



TI1K HKUMIT OK SAN M< 11M KB 



25 





One of the Immrnar .Mounds of Abuloiir shrlla (*ftlMIWJ 



ship sailed away and left the imparted 
northern savages to do their work until the 
end of the fur season. Tradition reports 
that the Kadiaks MOB, by Com of arms, 
made themselves criminally free with the 
wives and daughters of the natives. Of 
course tin- strongest elements in humanity 
rose in resistance; but what could an un- 
warliko people do with no weapons hut stone 
Hsh spears and stone knives against a much 
smaller number with rifles and steel daggerst 

There were no civilized spectators to the 
horrible massacre that followed. Later a 
report IMobed the mainland that the only 
survivors left were women and little girls; 
every male had been slaughtered. Recent 
explorers find corroborating evidence of vio- 
lence. Shallow graves where heaps of 
skeletons are found in disorder are not in 
accord with the regulation Boda of sepulture 
where the single body was pla 1 face down- 
ward with the feet drawn up beneath, and 
some personal haWfflgfagl or ornaments were 
deposited with the remains. 

One of an exploring party for the Smith 
sonian Institution states that many of the 
skulls of the exposed skeletons show a break 
in the temporal bone or in the eye soeket, as 
if the owners had been killed by some blunt 
instrument. The remains confirm the report 
of a general violence. 



Si range to relate, the most reliable printed 
report of the massacre first appeared in a 
Boston paper. At that early date the 
Yankees were partners with the Russians in 
the fur trade on the California eoa-t. Here 
is the Boston item : 

A ship (.uur, | by Boardman and Pope of 
BoatOB, commnnded by Captain Whitemore, 
trailing on the const, took from the port of 
Sitka, Russian American, about thirty 
Kadiak Indians, n part of the hardy tribe 
inhabiting the Island of Kadiak, to the 
islands of the Santa Barbara Channel, for 
the purpose of killing sea otter, which were 
then very numerous. Captain Whitemore. 
after landing the Indians on these islands 
and placing in their hands firearms and other 
-iry implements of the chase, sailed 
away to the lower coast of California and 
South America. In the absence of the ship 
a dispute arose between the Kadiaks and 
the natives of the islands, originating in 
the seizure of the female* bv the former. 
Tbo Kadiaks possessing superior weapons, 
slaughtered the males without mercy, old and 
young. On the Island of San Nicholas not a 
male old or young was spared. At the end 
of the year Captnin Whitemore returned to 
the islands, took the Kadiaks on board and 
returned to Sitka.— (History of Santa Bar- 
bara and Ventura Counties, page 255.) 

N'ot long after the northern hunters left, 
tidings in some way reached the mainland of 



26 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



the painful situation on San Nicholas. Deep 
sympathy was awakened at the missions and 
elsewhere for the forlorn women and chil- 
dren. A purse was easily raised to charter 
a ship to bring the unfortunates to the 
mainland, where they could receive aid and 
sympathy. 

It was in 1835 that Isaac Williams, once 
Collector of the Port of San Pedro, super 
intended a rescue party. The schooner Peor 
es Nada, Captain Hubbard, was chartered. 
While the schooner was anchored in the 
offing, the crew had little trouble or delay 
in "rounding up" the whole remainder of 
the race at the landing. As the last boat- 
load was pushing out through the surf, one 
woman, noticing that something had been 
left, supposed to have been one of her chil- 
dren, leaped overboard and rushed up the 
bank in pursuit. The situation of the surf 
forbade any delay of the boat with its 
human cargo. The officer intended, when he 
had put his passengers on board the schoon- 
er, to return with the empty boat for the 
straggler, but on reaching the ship, a rising 
gale admonished the captain that any delay 
would imperil the vessel and the lives of all 
on board; so he gave orders to weigh anchor 
and stand for San Pedro under close reef. 
It was a terrible head wind, and the vessel 
was buffeted for eight days before the coast 
could be reached. The capta'n intended, 
when the storm abated, to return for the 
one lost woman. On reaching San Pedro, 
however, he found an order from the owner 
of the ship at Monterey to sail at once for 
that port. There was no alternative left for 
his private plans. At Monterey a cargo of 
lumber was taken aboard for San Francisco. 
As she approached the Golden Gate a tem- 
pest was raging, and attempting to cross 
the bar the Peor es Nada capsized, and all 
on board perished. The hulk was seen no 
more. At that date this was the only vessel 
on the California coast sufficiently large to 
make a safe voyage to San Nicholas. 

It must be remembered that about the only 
traffic on the California coast less than sev- 
enty-five years ago was carried on by a few 
Eastern ships trading for hides and tallow. 

The woman had nothing to fear from 
wild animals, for the largest was a native 
fox about the size of a small cat. There 
was no danger of starvation, for in addi- 
tion to seals and fish, wlrch she knew how 



to capture and manage, there was an inex- 
haustible stock of all kinds of mollusks only 
waiting to be picked U p, and eggs by the 
millions deposited in the crannies of the 
rocks by pelicans, cormorants and pigeons. 

The land, too, afforded esculent roots and 
native fruits. The old dwellings were left, 
and on the beach was landed an unlimited 
store of driftwood for a renewed cabin and 
fuel. Acquired skill in finding the material 
and the manufacture of clothing supplied 
that demand. A few domestic dogs left be- 
hind were glad to aid in the chase. What 
an amount of freedom there is in having 
all the world to yourself alone ! Nobody to 
steal or cheat, to fight or scold. How broad 
the feeling when there is no mortal in your 
world that can possibly touch you or any- 
thing that you possess or want. Hermitage 
may have compensations. 

The next report from the forlorn island 
was in 1850. This was fifteen years after 
the Peor es Nada made her last voyage. 
Meantime Mexico had ceded California to 
the United States, and a semi-barbarism was 
fast giving place to an urbane civilization. 
Gold had been discovered and the Sierras 
were swarming with miners. Just fifteen 
years after the lone woman had been left on 
San Nicholas, Captain Nidever, a worthy 
citizen of Santa Barbara, ventured to make 
a voyage in search of otter. He was con- 
nected with the American Fur Company. 
As they were passing around the island to 
find the best point for game, Brown of the 
crew discovered in the wet sand the fresh 
tracks of a small human foot. He followed 
the trail from the beach until the tracks 
disappeared in the moss on the upland. He 
reported to the others, but the day was too 
far spent to continue the search. The next 
day the hunting trip was cut short by a ris- 
ing gale. The captain was compelled to 
scud away for home. The next year Cap- 
tain Nidever made a second voyage. While 
his men were moving around a different part 
of the island they came to some stakes of 
driftwood on which were hung strips of seal 
blubber to dry, out of the reach of wild 
dogs. Here was the work of human hands. 
Where to look for the invisible agent no one 
could tell. Again the party was here to 
hunt otter, not for a woman. The weather 
signals were dubious, and the business re- 
quired haste. A fair catch of otter in those 




» ' 



s 




The Mode of 




'ace Down and the Feet Drawn Up Behind the Body. 



28 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



days was more lucrative than an average 
gold mine. Every moment of daylight must 
be economized. A violent storm soon drove 
the hunters to shelter. When they related 
on shore what they had discovered, the older 
residents and the dwellers about the mis- 
sions said : "The lost woman must be still 
alive." A general interest was awakened in 
the involuntary hermit, and the Mission 
Fathers offered a prize of $200.00 to any 
party that would bring her to Santa Bar- 
bara. 

It was in 1853 that Captain Nidever de- 
termined to take another cruise to San Nich- 
olas, and engage in a woman hunt. The 
prize would pay to make one systematic 
sweep of the island. On landing he led his 
crew to one end of the island, where signs 
had before been seen, and marshalled them 
in line, as far apart as possible and yet 
maintain communication. Their united 
vision covered the whole breadth of terri- 
tory. In time as they climbed the hill, 
Brown saw in the distant brush a dark ob- 
ject that seemed to move. At first he 
thought it was a bird, but as he no selessly 
drew near, it assumed the appearance of the 
back of a human head. It was the woman 
in a low brush tent without a roof. She did 
not see Brown, but her attention was fixed 
upon the other men at a greater distance. 
He gave a signal by raising his hat up and 
down on the ramrod of his gun. A few 
dogs near the woman gave a warning growl, 
but at a fierce yell from her they disap- 
peared. She was busy peeling the blub- 
ber from a seal skin with an iron hoop. 
Her mass of matted hair was of a 
yellowish brown color. Her dress was of 
cormorant skins (shags) cut in squares, ex- 
tending from the shoulders to the ankles. 
There was no cover for head or feet. When 
all chance of escape was cut off, Brown 
stealthily moved around in front and let 
himself be seen. The woman made no at- 
tempt to flee, but on the contrary she re- 
ceived him with a bow and smile — with as 
much grace as he could have been welcomed 
in a civilized parlor. She greeted all her 
visitors in the same way. True etiquette is 
not a mere formality in highly cultured cir- 
cles, it is an innate instinct of untutored hu- 
manity. As the men sat down around her 
she constantly talked, but not a word was in- 
telligible. A few Indians of the crew spoke 



several d.alects, but they understood not a 
word. She was the only one left who could 
speak the language of the island, and she 
knew no other. 

The savage was endowed with the grace 
of hospitality. In a few minutes she took 
from a grass sack two varieties of roots, 
placing them in the smoldering ashes. When 
cooked she placed them before her guests; 
she gave the best and about all her larder 
contained. Taking a drinking dish, she went 
to a nearby spring and brought some water. 

When the men made signs for her to go 
with them to the landing and the schooner, 
at first she failed to comprehend their mean- 
ing, but when they made signs for her to 
gather up her possessions, she caught the 
idea and began to pack her baskets and sacks 
with great dispatch. The dried blubber, and 
all else that could be used for food, was 
gathered up, meager clothing, bone needles, 
sinew and ornaments were packed. The men 
relieved her from the most of the luggage; 
and last of all the woman selected a glow- 
ing brand from the fire as an essential for 
warmth and cooking. It is much easier for 
Indians to transport fire than it is for them 
by any process they know to start it de novo. 

When all was in readiness, she led the 
way down her trail, coming soon to a pure 
spring of drinking water, where seal blub- 
ber was hanging to dry; further down the 
grade she led to a fountain for bathing, 
where she paused to wash her hands and 
face. On reaching the landing, they mo- 
tioned for her to enter the boat, which she 
cheerfully did. Aboard the schooner she 
sought a place near the cook stove. When 
food was offered, she ate with great relish 
victuals such as she had never tasted before. 
Indeed, from that time on she preferred the 
bacon and bread to blubber and shell fish. 
Brown at once found a piece of bed-ticking 
and set about making a skirt. This with a 
sailor's shirt and a discarded vest made her 
quite comfortable. 

The weather signals indicated a prolonged 
season for hunting, so arrangements were 
made to camp on shore. Poles were leaned 
against a rock and an old sail spread over 
them for a tent. A short d'stance away a 
smaller shelter was arranged for the woman. 
She went about talking to herself and sing- 
ing as if content and happy. She aided in 
the work, bringing wood and water. She 



THK HKK.MIT <>K SAN NICHOLAS. 







n 




A Vast Mound of Small Sheila and a Fete of the Exposed Skeleton*. 



then finished a water bucket which was 
unique. Into a nicely braided grass basket 
she placed some pieces of asphalttun. picked 
up on the beach ; on these she placed hot 
stones, and when in a liquid state the 
asphaltum was carefully spread in a uni- 
form thickness over the inside. When com- 
pleted the basket was impervious to water 
as a tin pail and not much heavier. Small 
drinking dishes were made in the same way. 
In these vessels water could In: bottled or 
food cooked by tilling the basket with rata 
and inimers ng a succession of hot rocks. 

Among the otters that were brought into 
camp for skinning was one on t he eve of 
parturition. The hunter removed the fetus, 
and stuffed the beautiful skin. By gestures 
t'lie woman solicited the care of the toy. Tak- 
ing it into her tent, she suspended it to a 
pole, and by the hour she would swing it 
back and forth, singing to it as to an in- 
fant. Eighteen yam of hermit life had not 
abolished the maternal instinct. 
She pressed it to her tiosotn and rocke.1 it 

to and fro. 
In memory of the little one she lost so long 
ago. 

This time Captain Nidever was allowed a 
month of successful hunting, then the rigH 



of sky and bm admonished him that it was 
time to leave. On the voyage homeward- 
bound, however, a fearful gale met him. 
The force of the wind, the boiling and break- 
ing of the sea, the rolling and pitching of 
the creaking vessel seemed fearful to one 
not accustomed to ocean life. The great 
anxiety of the woman seemed to increase 
until she fell upon her knees on deck, raising 
her hands and open eyes to the heavens, as 
if invoking aid from an unseen |>ower above. 
The dramatic scene was short. Soon the 
smiling face of the sun appeared from be- 
neath the retreating clouds, the gale was 
abated and the seas assuaged. Then the 
woman in pantomime conveyed to Captain 
Nidever the view that it was her intercession 
with the unseen which mitigated the tempest. 
When the crew with the hermit were land- 
ing, the tirst object of interest to attract her 
attention was a two-wheeled cart drawn by 
o yoke of oxen. She had never seen before 
any domestic animal except the small Indian 
dogs. She made apt pastures of her sur- 
prise at the yoke, the docile oxen, the re- 
volving wheels, at the same time talking and 
laughing. Soon a horseman came riding 
down the beach. This seemed still more 
strange and ludicrous to her. Placing two 



30 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



fingers of her right hand astr'de of her left 
thumb, she gesticulated the galloping rider 
with shouts of laughter. She was in a new 
world, though less than a hundred miles 
from where she had spent her whole life. 
Every view awakened surprise and hilarity. 
Captain Nidever took the hermit to his 
own home and placed her in care of his 
efficient wife. The Mission Fathers, too, 
assumed an indirect supervision over the 
new arrival. Visitors from near and far 
came to see the human curiosity, and many 
donations were left for her comfort. She 
seemed willing to attire herself for exhibi- 
tion in her suit of birdskins with feather 
points downward. She had a keen relish 
for all the varieties of the white man's food, 
and was extremely fond of fruit. From 
lack of critical oversight she ate to excess 
and brought on a serious malady. It was 
supposed that a return to her native diet 
would furnish a remedy, but she spurned 
clams, fish and seal blubbers. In a few 
weeks the sickness proved fatal, and the last 
remnant of a once numerous race passed 
away without being able by words to com- 
municate anything about her people. The 
tale of personal sorrow and suffering for 
eighteen years, and the tradition of the ex- 
tinct race must always remain a blank to the 
civilized world. At the end of the hermit's 
life she was given an appreciative burial by 
the Fathers. The two unique dresses, one 



worn by herself and a little one supposed to 
belong to a deceased child, together with a 
basket of spear heads, abalone fishhooks, 
bone needles, sinew-thread and miscellaneous 
ornaments were packed up by the Fathers 
and sent to Rome. They were deposited in 
th cabinet of curiosities in the Vatican, 
where, doubtless, visitors may still inspect 
them. A carefully prepared account of the 
hermit went with her effects to the Vatican. 
And what can now be said about the mod- 
ern San Nicholas? The island is still there, 
but for half a century it has virtually been 
unpopulated. The otters were soon exter- 
minated, so hunters had no motive to visit 
the storm-lashed isle. There are some 
twenty thousand acres of manifestly rich 
soil, but no homesteaders care to take it. 
Food and water are abundant. Some ad- 
venturer has placed on the island a large 
flock of sheep. Periodically the sheep- 
shearers make a voyage to ply their voca- 
tion for a week or two, and at intervals a 
nomadic shepherd makes a tour to look after 
the lambs. The larger part of the year, 
however, San Nicholas entertains no man. 
The bleating of the sheep, the cry of the 
lambs, the barking of the inoffensive foxes, 
the scream of sea fowls chime in with hoarse 
growl of sea lions. The roar of the billows 
among the cliffs and the muffled tones of the 
ever-beating surf. Nature's desolation reigns 
supreme. 



The Stage and the Pulpit 



Bv William Winter 




1.1 'IT Inhumations against 
the theater are neither so nu- 
merous nor so violent as they 
were in former years, but 
they continue to be ejaculated 
and do doubt they will be 
audible as long as bigoted clergymen nour- 
ish, and as long as religion which ought to 
make its votaries just and gentle — makes 
some of them intolerant. The theatre, as is 
well known, was originally, in Catholic coun- 
tries of Europe, a sort of auxiliary of the 
church- which sanctioned and used "Miracle 
I'lavs" but. gradually, it took an inde- 
pendent form and grew into a separate and, 
finally, a powerful institution; whereupon the 
church became savagely antagonistic to its 
offspring, and practically signified its enmity 
by persecution. It is an ancient <|iiarrel, and 
it ought not to endure. The theatre is essen- 
tial to the public welfare and it should not 
he, and cannot be, suppressed. Vanity and 
-••liishness, however, are strong foes to recon- 
ciliation. The actual reason, as distinguished 
from the alleged one, for clerical opposition 
to the stage is jealousy on the part of pulpit 
perforata, combined with anxious apprehen- 
sion lest the influence of the theatre should 
1 that of the church. The extent of 
injustice to which intolerance is capable of 
proceeding was recently exemplified by a 
clergyman of Atlanta, Oa., Kev. Dr. Brough- 
ton by name, who actually went so far as to 
represent that great actor and manager, the 
late Henry Irving, as an opponent of the 
stage, and a disparager and assailant of his 
own vocation. That preacher seems to have 
been uncommonly acidulous in his remarks, 
delivering several tremendous, because self- 
convincing, reasons why the theatre should 
be suppressed everywhere as well as in At- 
lanta, Ga., and he concluded his phillippie by 
quoting a statement, attributed to Henry 
Irving, to the effect that ''the playhouse is 
a dangerous place for men and women of 
weak | towers and characters." 



That statement is true of many places be- 
sides the playhouse; for example, it is true 
of the church; but an attempt to represent 
Henry Irving as, in any way, at any time, or 
on any ground, an enemy of the theatre or 

of the art of acting could < ie only of 

ignorance or malice. Irving often made 
opportunities — and he never lost one — of de- 
fending his profession, lis \iews of the 
stage are recorded in his many public ad- 
dresses, and those addresses are easily acces- 
sible; and if the Kev. Dr. Broughton, or any 
other clergyman, were really desirous of ac- 
quainting the religious community with the 
opinions and convictions of that noble actor. 
who lived and died in the service of the 
drama, it would be easy to accomplish that 
desire by reading some of those addresses 
from the pulpit. They are as good as most 
sermons, and belter than many. They con- 
tain much information, and the spirit of them 
is pure, earnest, thoughtful, liberal and sweet. 
In one of them, delivered at Harvard 1'ni- 
versity. in 1885, Henry Irving said: 

* • • • We do not claim to be any bet- 
ter than our fellows in other walks of life. 

* * * It is impossible to point to any 
vocation which is not attended by tempta- 
tions that prove fatal to many. • • • 
The immortal part of the stage is its nobler 
part. • * * I have been an actor for 
nearly thirty years, and what I have told 
you is the fruit of my ex|>erience, and of an 
earnest and conscientious belief that the call- 
ing to which I am proud to belong is worthy 
of the sympathy and support of all intelli- 
gent people." (He remained an actor 
twenty years longer.) 

Some years ago a significant incident, in 
which Henry Irving was concerned, occurred 
at a country - mansion in England, an inci- 
dent which lie afterward related to the pres- 
ent writer, who, therefore, can vouch for its 
truth. It chanced that Henry Irving was 
dining with a group of distinguished per- 
sons, among whom was the Primate of Kng- 



32 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



land — the late Archbishop of Canterbury. 
That venerable Prince of the Church spoke, 
in terms of disapproval, as to the employ- 
ment of children, by Irving, in the London 
Lyceum Theatre. To those remarks Irving 
replied : 

"Sir, I cannot admit the justice of your 
opinion, nor can I refrain from assuring you 
that it is absolutely groundless. The chil- 
dren who are employed in my theatre are 
carefully guarded, and are as well cared for 
as they could be in any home; better, in 
some cases, than they are by their parents. 
I require that their conduct and manners 
should be above reproach, and I will add that 
such is not the case with the choir boys who 
sing in your lordship's cathedral — for, within 
this week, I, personally, was obliged to call 
to order a number of those choir boys, who 
were creating a disturbance during the serv- 
ice, a thing that never could happen in any 
first-class theatre." 

The Archbishop made no immediate re- 
sponse, but, after the party had retired for 
the night, he went to Irving's room, sat by 
his bedside — the actor having gone to bed — 
and there and then expressed regret for his 
error, and thanks that he had been set right. 

It is much to be wished that the clergy in 
general would emulate such a good example 
of justice and liberal feeling. The people of 
the stage are like other people — neither worse 
nor better. The theatre cannot with any- 
more propriety be held responsible for the 
immorality of some of its members than the 
church can be held responsible for the wick- 
edness, not infrequently made known, of 
some of its votaries — even of clergymen 
themselves. If there actually be a difference, 
in point of morals, between the two institu- 
tions (and there does not seem to be any), it 
probably is in favor of the theatre — for the 
theatre does not assume, as the church does, 
to be the custodian of all the virtues; and, 
moreover, the theatre, behind its scenes, and 
without any of that glamour, altogether fic- 
titious, with which it has been invested by 
an ignorant public fancy, is as hard, stern 
and exacting as a machine shop. For those 
persons who are in earnest (and there are as 
many earnest persons on the stage as there 
are in the pulpit), the continuous, strenuous 



toil requisite for the attainment of success in 
acting leaves but scant time even for need- 
ful rest. The stage is an excellent thing, 
when it is rightly conducted, and that it 
should be rightly conducted is the heartfelt 
desire of every worthy member of it, man 
or woman. The profession of acting has 
done great good to thousands of people ; and, 
if the clergy must occupy itself with the 
theatre, it would be well employed, not in 
condemnation of it, but in condemnation of a 
vulgar, commercial misuse of it, that is made 
by unworthy persons who, wh'le making loud 
professions of racial integrity and religious 
motive, conduct it as a mere bazar. Pulpit 
denunciation of the actor is powerless to stay 
the dramatic movement or to affect the trend 
of educated public opinion. Bigotry, shoot- 
ing from behind a hedge, causes only dislike 
and contempt. The church, like every other 
social institution, must maintain itself, not 
by denouncing contemporary educational 
forces, but by making and keeping its own 
force potent and interesting. When the 
country clergyman, complaining to Henry 
Ward Beecher that his congregation often 
went to sleep while he was preaching, asked 
what he should do "to wake them up," the 
famous preacher replied : "If my hearers 
should go to sleep, I should ask the deacon 
to come 'round and 'wake me up' !" The acrid 
ebullition of the Atlanta parson, tending 
to stigmatize Henry Irving, by misapplying 
words attributed to him so as to make him 
seem to decry the profession that he loved, 
honored, and devoutly served all the days of 
his life, exemplifies an ecclesiastical pose, 
either ignorant or disingenuous, which is not 
only unjust to the theatre, but injurious to 
the church and detrimental to the welfare of 
the public. A cynical observer might re- 
mark upon the singularity, that testimony 
of actors against the stage is always quoted 
either from actors who have turned preachers, 
or from actors who are dead and cannot 
reply. It would be interesting to note the 
result, if some ecclesiastical crank would 
select, and apply to condemnation of the dra- 
matic calling, remarks by Eichard Mansfield, 
or E. S. Willard, or Robert Mantell, or John 
Hare, or Mrs. Fiske, or Edward Terry. The 
answer would have no uncertain sound. 



The 

Undomesticated Indian 

as seen on the 

Warm Springs Reservation 



From photograph* taken by 

Mrs. Fanny van Duyn 

Tygh Valley, Orcjr<.n 



Tbt Pacific Monthly, July, 1907 




Tat-toon-my and Her Indian Doll. 




Syad, an Indian Maiden in a Beaded Buckskin Dress. 




Ticee-men-f. a Warm Spring* Buck. 




A Young Squaw and Her Baby. 




Ho-ta*h-a. Hrr Pappoo**. and T'iiim Vo»" 



I UN 



The Waterloo of King Jedediah I 



By John Fleming Wilson 




UK HE is — or was — in the 
city of Honolulu on Fort 
street, just above Queen 
street and its intricacies, a 
certain low-ceilinged, dimly- 
l;_-lited coffee house. A sign 
informs the wayfarer that it is specially 
fitted up for the refreshment of the hungry 
who are also epicurean. It is the resort of 

The history of the dynasties of the South 
Seas is yet to be written. Certain greater 
princes that have exploited the coral-fringed 
islands, eaten of the bounty of their gardens 
and waged their wars of blood and commerce 
upon the warm reaches of the Pacific have 
attained to paragraphs in the newspapers 
and mention in the dispatches of The Powers. 
Rut of the kings themselves, those vagrant 
and ofttimes drunken potentates ruling from 
thrones built amid the palms and mangoes of 
a thousand isles, there has never been a vera- 
cious and complete record. Down-Easter, 
Scot, Irishman and full-bellied German, they 
have gone their boisterous ways, wielded 
their tinsel scepters and drunk their trade 
irin and sweet champagne with no scribe to 
indite their memoirs and preserve their fame. 

But in Andrew's coffee bouse bat a year 
ago you might meet them. Kin<» Max of 
Laysan would have banded you the Adver- 
tiser, designating with thick finger the item 
that spelled his glory; King Ole of Tahula's 
thumbed Bund was at your disposal and 
minor royalties would nod and bellow in 
subdued thunder over the going of the Morn- 
ing Star to the Low Archipelago. Here was 
the clearing-house of the princes of the South 
Seas. Here they who spoke on far-off, surf- 
ringed domains with the voice of authority 
might easily be enticed into amicable and 
even confidential chat about shell and copra 
and cane and the politics of the great deep. 

The arrival of a schooner in the offing 
meant much in Andrew's coffee house. Let 
Kaheamanu, the waiter, fling open the door 



that gave on the hot street and cry "Some- 
body coming!" The kings rose and reached 
for white jackets and limp hats with excla- 
mations of anticipation or disgust, as it 
meant the arrival of some brother lord or the 
imminent departure of one already of the 
company. A little later you misht see them 
on Wilder's wharf, straddled on huge legs, 
smoking prodigious pipes, all gazing out 
toward the entrance in the reef beyond 
which a schooner jockeyed for her straight 
course in. 

One such day I had been in Andrew's with 
the Nestor of all South Sea journalists, the 
friend and celebrator of half the notables 
along the Equator. He had been devouring 
(he had a true Atlantic taste though he had 
not seen "home" in thirty years) a huge 
portion of bacon and eggs with a ponderous 
eup of coffee to savor it, between mouthful* 
telling me the inside of the latest coup d'itat 
in the vexed territory of Hawaii. The drone 
of conversation, the steaming air that 
breathed in from the torrid town, had put 
me almost to sleep and I fear I had caught 
but little of his tale when I yielded entirely 
to the drowsy influences of the place and 
dozed. 

When I awoke Kaheamanu's cry still rang 
in my ears and my companion was wiping 
his beard with his handkerchief preparatory 
to going forth with the rest "You *d better 
along," he remarked. "A little fresh 
air will do yon good." 

The remark was so commonplace - that I 
nearly dozed again. But I heard a well- 
known voice — the voice of the Lord of Nua— 
saying, "It 's Jedediah's Bet* of Bath. Jede- 
diah aint been up from Enid Island in ten 
vears, I'll bet." 

"Who's Jedediah T" I demanded of the 
journalist. 

"Jedediah the First is the King of Enid," 
he responded sententiously. 

And where's EnidT" I pursued. 

"Due south," was the reply. "Next to 



42 



THK PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



Christmas Island it 's about as far out of the 
world as you can get. Jedediah ought to 
have come up long before now." 

We followed the kings at a respectful dis- 
tance down Fort street and along the coral 
strewn waterfront till we reached the wharf, 
whence the harbor lay in full view, sparkling 
in the afternoon sun out to the dancing surf 
on the reef, hemmed in with delicate white 
arms of dazzling sand, like a bowl outheld 
by some fair woman. 

Beyond the reef I saw the schooner whose 
arrival had made all this stir. She leant 
against the Trades gently, a gossamer curl 
of white water at her prow, a slender thread 
of green traversing the azure sea behind her, 
marking her path. As she heeled over to the 
scented gale that bore to her the heavy odors 
of the flowery valleys of Oahu I saw that she 
was very old. Her antique topsail was 
patched and stained, and the very timbers of 
her bow, as she rose streaming from the 
surge, seemed worn and thin. The long 
stretch of green, that traced her wake for the 
eye, one of the kings explained : "She 's foul 
with weeds. The Bess of Bath aint been on 
a dock or on a beach to be scraped this 
twenty years." 

And his judgment was confirmed when the 
ancient vessel found her position to enter 
between the foaming reef -heads and bore up 
into the wind. It seemed that it was with the 
utmost difficulty that her master made her 
understand the direction he indicated, for 
there were two opinions as to whether she 
would not pile up on the reef. But the top- 
sail filled again and the Bess of Bath forged 
in and headed for the buoy that marks the 
turn in the channel. Here, again, she seemed 
on the verge of destruction ; it was only after 
a full minute's time that she recovered and 
drew into the harbor, the song of the Ka- 
nakas of her crew coming softly to our ears. 

As a. boat pulled away vigorously from the 
schooner's side the oldest journalist in the 
South Seas nodded his head and told me to 
look out for an item. "That 's Jedediah," 
he informed me. "You 'd better get a talk 
with him now, for he '11 be pretty busy when 
lie gets close to American whiskey and cigars. 
I'll introduce you." 

The boat swung up alongside a bark dis- 
charging prosaic coal for the mail boats and 
Jedediah came up on the wharf with a flour- 
ish of arms and a kick that sent the sailor 



on whose shoulder he mounted howling into 
the bottom of the boat. Once on the planks 
and firm on his feet he pulled his cap hard 
down over his eyes, scowled at the unfortu- 
nate Kanaka now giggling among his com- 
panions, and peered out under the sun at his 
schooner. Satisfied, apparently, that this 
ancient craft was secure, the King of Enid 
advanced towards us. The King of Kohula 
was the first to greet him : "Hello, Jedediah," 
he said hoarsely. "Thought you 'd quit this 
part of the world and gone to the Colonies." 

They shook hands solemnly, without fur- 
ther words, and my companion adroitly 
thrust me in among those present. Royalty 
squeezed my hand in an immense paw and 
immediately turned up and away from the 
wharf. The rest of us followed, a taciturn 
procession stringing out over the coral like 
men following a boss to work, each of us 
stumping along industriously in the rear of 
this determined figure. 

It was not to Andrew's that we went this 
time. We did not even pass the place; in- 
stead we turned at Queen Street, shuffled 
down an alley bordered with lean palms and 
into the cool court of Cunha's, quencher of 
Equatorial thirsts, blender of savory concoc- 
tions fit for throats parched through long 
seasons. 

It is not for a scribbler of paragraphs to 
depict the solemn, almost melancholy gusto 
with which the kings drank, nor the ameliora- 
tion of their manners as the strong waters 
had their effect, nor the expansion of Jede- 
diah I. 

In due time the ceremony was over. A 
dozen questions had been propounded and 
answered and the Press advanced and made 
its queries in the name of the anxious and 
expectant public, while the kings departed 
with retreating cries and ejaculations till the 
last vanished out into the afternoon and the 
bartender returned to his nook by the re- 
frigerator. 

"Nothing to say much," said the king. 
"Enid is still there, or was fifty-four days 
ago when we sailed. I'm here and you 're 
here and Hawaii has gone over to Uncle Sam 
and I want another drink and a cigar and a 
piece of pie." 

"Pie !" I exclaimed, as we drank ; "that 's 
a funny thing to ask" for." 

"Is it?" the king returned simply. "I 
have n't had a piece of pie in eleven years. 



THE WATERLOO OF KING JEDEDIAH I. 



43 



I was brought up on it. They dont make 
pie down in my district. Where can we get 
some T" 

We went eompanionably to George's and 
sat down under a fan. The king looked at 
it and thci looked at me. "Queer sort of 
punkah, that. Run by clock workt" 

" Elect ricity," I informed him. 

re enough," he said readily. "I got a 
paper a year ago from Sidney that told 
about what electricity was doing. But I want 
pie." 

He got it, and as he went into it I men- 
tioned again the fact that I desired to know 
the purpose of his visit and the news of 
Enid, that the public might be informed of 
its prince's arrival in due form. 

He stopped politely and gave me briefly 
what I thought I desired. I thanked him 
and he resumed his pie as I left. I looked 
back when I reached the street. The king 
was ordering more pie. 

In the evening, when the lights blaze on 
King street and creep out of the foliage of 
Punchbowl, when the breeze that has roared 
all the hot day becomes only a perfumed sigh, 
Honolulu wakes to her varied life and en- 
joys her kings. On this occasion they strolled 
up and down the thoroughfares, dividing the 
polyglot, laughing, singing throng with vast 
shoulders, calling over the garlanded heads 
in deep-sea tones, scattering the largess of 
their treasuries with lavish hands. But the 
King of Enid was not among them. From 
the river to the quiet reaches of the palace 
grounds he was not visible and I, being a 
seeker after the wisdom of crowned heads as 
expounded by the lords of the sea-girt isles, 
sought him elsewhere. 

I found him in one corner of Cunha'a, a 
bottle and a glass at his hand, his face to the 
ceiling, his eyes fixed upon a nymph that dis- 
ported herself in the fashion of half a world 
away with immutable posture and eternal 
smile. 

King Jedediah pushed the bottle towards 
me and withdrew his thoughtful glance from 
the painted divinity. When I had helped my- 
self he poured him out a glass and drank it 
slowly. 

"How does it seem to get backf" I in- 
quired with banal civility. 

"It 's the very devil," he added soberly. 
"The very devil." I'm not back yet." 

"How do too meant" I demanded. 



"It 's the darned Germans." he exploded. 

"Seized your island t" I suggested, think- 
ing of Samoa cud Pago-Pago. 

''The Germans and ambition," answered 
the king. "I was after too much and 1 
got it." 

"I dont understand," I said. "Have thev 
taken EnidT" 

"Not by a darn sight !" he exclaimed. "But 
they 're welcome to it, now. I dont know 
what to do." 

To advise kings is a hardy matter. I 
ehose silence. 

"You see," the king went on presently, "it 
was all because of a little German band." 

This was his proem. His tale, the tale of 
the Waterloo of King Jedediah, related by 
himself, was as follows: 

I took up Enid about fifteen years ago. 
I was mate of the old bark Hesper in those 
days and she had a hard name. So did I. 
The crew was as tough a set of Auckland 
galley-boys as ever I drove. Thurfore, I 
was set ashore on Enid one fine night and 
the Hesper went on up to the States with 
the crew running the ship. 

I did n't like being marooned that way, at 
first. But Enid was a nice little island. 
Plenty of cocoanut and mangoes and sour- 
sops and pears and kalo and as decent a lot 
of natives as I ever did see. Out of the way, 
that was the only matter with the place. But 
I fixed that all right. I bought the Bet* of 
Bath three years later off a trader and that 
way I got a trip to the Colonies once in a 
while and a way of getting my copra and 
shell to market. 

Any of the boys will tell you I did pretty 
well by Enid. I married the chiefs daugh- 
ter and taught 'em a lot of things about 
trading. I put Enid on the map. I tell you 
right now I turned over a lot of money and 
put it right back into the island. Why, five 
years ago I had a bandstand put up, besides 
a big treasury building, and passed a law 
that every man should drill once a week in 
my army. Tou could have come to Enid 
and found the most up-to-date kingdom in 
the South Seas. I had a lot of improvements 
and this year I was going to go to San Fran- 
cisco and get a full outfit of these electric fix- 
ings. I was going to have a waterworks, a lot 
of street lights and a town clock. I would 
have, if I had n't got ambitious snd run 
afoul of little German band. 



44 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



You see it was this way. There 's mighty 
little wind down Enid way and it gets so 
darned lonesome and slow that a man wants 
something doing. I went in for more white 
folks. "Gimme somebody that knows what 
I say when I swear," is my principles. 

What I wanted was Americans. I'm an 
American and a good up-to-date island needs 
'em. They're the people to make things 
hum. But I could n't get 'em. I had to take 
what I could pick up and I got me Himmel- 
fritz from 'Tonga, a German; Lavang, a 
French skipper that lost his ship and his 
papers at the same time down Tahiti way; 
and a big, devil-may-care remittance Brit- 
isher from Sidney. I reckon nobody 
but Jedediah could have handled that crowd. 
But I handled 'em, all right. I made Him- 
melfritz treasurer and Boggs, the Britisher, 
chief engineer, and Lavang, head of the cus- 
toms. Darn 'em, they worked, you bet. Let 
'em swear all they want, was my principles, 
but make 'em work. 

You had ought to have seen the army I 
got together. And the way the natives 
hustled. I tell you I was worth a good round 
hundred thousand a year ago. Then I got 
ambitious. A man does, thinking nights 
when the stars are particular bright and the 
blossoms are thick in the hills. 

"Himmelfritz," says I one day, "We've 
got an army and a treasury building and a 
park and bandstand. What we need is a 
band." 

"Music," says Himmelfritz, pawing his 
beard, "is foolishness. It 's something I dont 
want. The natives are bad enough." 

The Dutchman was correct. But I never 
give in when my men dont like a thing. La- 
vang was dead against it, too, and Boggs 
laughed in his nasty way and told me I was 
getting soft. 

"Soft?" I inquires. "Did you ever hear 
of an army without a band? Or a band- 
stand without somebody to play on it?" 

So I sat down and wrote a letter to the 
American consul in Sidney and the Bess took 
it up to Papeete and six months later I got 
an answer. The consul said he 'd received 
my order and would deliver in time, though 
bands were hard to get. 

About six months after I'd got the letter a 
bark hauled to off Enid and sent a boat 
ashore with a band and an invoice from the 
consul. It did me good to see 'em come 



ashore, all with their caps on and their horns 
about their necks. There were six of 'em 
and it was n't till the bark had swung her 
mainsail and got under way that I discovered 
that not one of the band spoke American. 
Himmelfritz was up in the hills after nuts 
and I had to wait three days till he came 
back before I could tell the beggars to put 
down their horns and have something to eat. 

Then was the beginning of my troubles. 
They were mad. They said they had been 
buncoed. Would n't play a tune for any- 
body for love or money or kicks. 

Imagine me. King of Enid for nigh fif- 
teen years, with a town with streets and an 
army with guns, and a little German band 
mutinying while my three white men snick- 
ered and the army marched and counter- 
marched to a shark-skin drum. Was n't it 
enough to put a man crazy? I tell you 
I sat on the beach those nights and thought 
over all I'd done for a lot of European 
thieves and a pack of heathen natives and I 
swore I'd teach 'em King Jedediah was the 
man to keep their eye on. 

The German band got pretty wise to the 
sort of shark Jedediah is, and the third morn- 
ing after they 'd landed they disappeared up 
into the valley. I went to Himmelfritz, he 
being of the same breed, and I says, "Him- 
melfritz, you better go up and explain to 
those Dutch cousins of yours that I aint the 
man to fool with. If they dont come round 
and play music, they 're liable not to have 
necks to blow through." 

So Himmel went up the valley and from 
what the natives told me, there was quite a 
session up there. Himmel came back. But 
without the band. "No good," says he. 
"They 're . scared and they 're Dutch. You 
might as well let 'em alone. After a while 
they '11 come down and maybe see your side 
of it." 

"What 's the matter with 'em?" I demands. 

"Homesick," says Himmelfritz. 

So I drilled the army and locked the treas- 
ury every night and we played casino on the 
lanai of the palace till the town went to bed 
and the night wind brought the sound of the 
surf clear and sharp to us. Never a sound 
from the band. 

But one night, after Himmelfritz and La- 
vang and Boggs had gone off to their quar- 
ters and the moon was shining through the 
palms, I was sitting with my pipe in my 



THE WATERLOO OF KING JEDEDIAH I. 



45 



hand, thinking of n lot of things, when from 
far up the mountain I heard a sort of long- 
drawn cry. I fell to listening and pretty 
it again, a riling strain, by 
! of some tune. Then the sen breeze 
died away and I heard it plainer. It was 
the band, playing up there in the moonlit 
valley some tune or other that I remembered. 

All nijiht l"n<r they kept it up and I heard 
Himmelfritz and Boggs c. I out of their 
house and shuffle along the boards to the edge 
of the porch. Later Lavang came out on his 
porch and lit his pipe. I was mad clear 
through. It was bad enough to have im- 
ported a band and have them go back on the 
bargain. But to have the whole settlement 
kept awake by their darned playing was 
- too far. 

I'm here in Honolulu because King Jede- 
iliah was euchred by that little German band. 
■■nly that night, but every night for a 
month I never saw them, nor could I get a 
glimpse of them ; only I could hear them 
begin to piny along towards midnight when 
tin' surf trot low and the sea breeze didn't 
come in. And every night those three white 
thieves, men that I'd saved from the gallows 
and worse, crept out on their porches and 
li.-tened. 

I know when I'm beat. At the end of 
that month the Kingdom of Enid was de- 
moralized. The army would n't take heart in 
their drill and Himmelfritz and Lavang and 
Boggs were worse than mutinous. How 're 
you going to deal with a man that doesn't 
hear what you say half the time and spends 
the other half mooning in his quarters f I 
tell you it 11 put the livest sort of kingdom 
strictly on the blink. 

it the end of the month I sent Himmel- 
fritz up the mountain with my ultimatum. 
"Tell 'em to quit playing and come down and 
I'll ship 'em out right away," was my words. 

"Do you mean that T" asks Himmel. 

"You dont think I'm going to have those 
Dutch nightingales singing in my kingdom, 
do youf You tell 'em they can 't get out of 
here fast enough." 

"Howl you get them outf" he co m e t 
back at me. 

"By Heck! I'll send 'em to Samoa by the 
Bess of Bath," I says. "Anything to get rid 
of them." 

So Himmelfritz departs as envoy extra- 
ordinary to the little German band and 



brings 'em down. By Heck, I laughed when 
I saw 'em, mad as I was. 

Imagine at sundown a half-dozen of 
bearded Dutchmen, each with his horn or his 
flute, parading down q lane a hot evening 
with blue uniform and heavy cap on, all 
blowing a tune as solemn as I'm sitting here! 
The Bess was lying in the lagoon, nil ready 
for them, and they went on past the palace. 
blowing away at their instruments, the Ka- 
naka*, marching liehind and humming the 
song. I came out on the lanai and watched 
'em go by, quite like any king reviewing his 
army. And they tootled and blew along, step, 
step, step, hup, hup, hup, their cheeks puffed 
out, their bodies swinging to the music. 

Somehow I bated to see that band go; I 
sort of stood up straight and waved my hand. 
The leader looked over at me and they 
stopped. The tune stopped. Everything 
stopped. And then the leader waved his horn 
and they stepped off again, playing an old 
'Frisco dancehall tune. I did n't know just 
what it was, but as they passed out of 
I remembered. 

(The king forgot his glass and threw his 
head back. His eyes rested on the nymph on 
the ceiling. He seemed lost in thought. He 
awakened to say : ) 

That was the old tune they nlaved. The 
last tune played in the Kingdom of Enid. 1 
forget the words. They went down the 
white road under the dark palms. I saw 
them come out on the beach and then, by- 
Heck, I saw the end of my ambitions. Be- 
hand them, leading the ruck of Kanakas, was 
Himmelfritz, with his white clothes on and 
his bag in his hand. There was Boggs, tool- 
ing along with his head on his breast, and 
Lavang, too, with his cap on the back of his 
head. 

I tell you I was hurt Had n't I picked all 
three of 'em out of the gutter and made m«-i. 
of themf Hadn't I put money in 
pockets and given them the run of my 
island f And they left me, left me cold to 
follow a little German band. They got int.' 
the boat with them and went out to the Bess. 
I heard Lavang's voice ordering the crew 
about when they set the topsail and Boggs 
singing at the halliards. 

It 's lonely to be a king. I stood there and 
the Bess lifted her anchor and warped out to 
the reef. They hoisted the foresail and she 
slipped through out upon the open sea. . The 



46 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



moon lit her up. I saw them all on her decks. 
The band played and the Bess took the long 
swells and I never said a word. I never 
called to them. They never said good-bye, 
damn them ! 

"But why did you leave?" I demanded. 

"They sent the schooner back," he said 
simply. "Enid is for sale, treasury, band- 
stand and palace. I'm done with it. My 
wife is dead and the children are well fixed." 

I looked at him, a man in the prime of life, 
giving up a kingdom. "What are you going 
to do?" I asked. 

King Jedediah's face was turned toward 
the eternally posturing siren of half a world 
away. "I'm going home," he said mildly. 
"I've had my day and I've come to the end of 
the fun of it. I knew it that night when 
the band went by — going home — playing that 
tune. Himmelfritz, Boggs and Lavang went. 
By Heck ! the King 's going, too !" 

I went back to the office and wrote mv 



paragraph about the King of Enid. The 
Oldest Journalist in the South Seas was 
putting on his coat as I finished. "What 
did Jedediah have to say?" he inquired. 

"He said he was put out of business by a 
little German band," I replied. 

"Any story in it?" he pursued. 

"A stickful," I responded. 

But later, in San Francisco, I watched a 
parade of the city's workingmen. They 
passed up Market street to the blare of 
trumpet and the beat of drum, with banners 
waving and legends flaunting in the breeze. 
Behind an immense pennant bearing the 
words, "Stevedores Local, No. 16," stepping 
along with his eyes fixed on some invisible 
guidon, I saw King Jedediah. He did not 
see me, for he was following the band. Prob- 
ably the kings still gather in Andrew's 
waiting for Kaheamanu's cry, "Somebody 
coming !" But Jedediah, no longer king, will 
never come again. He has gone home. 



A Mix-up in Souls 



By Robert Whitaker 




the words. 



F the remark had come a 
minute later it would have 
been meaningless to me, for I 
know I was on the verge of 
a dead faint. As it was I 
caught the idea rather than 
Yet feeble as was my mental 
grasp, it was like the clutch of desperate 
fingers when one has fallen overboard. I 
was going down in a horror of thick dark- 
ness, a rushing, roaring noise in my ears, 
and a choking in my throat. Then of a sud- 
den something touched me, something strong 
but elusive, and as the last words of the 
sentence went whirling by me I reached out 
and seized their meaning as one might lay 
hold of a rope, and was drawn rapidly to 
the surface again. I thought for how long 
I know not that it was night, and that I was 
dragging in the wake of some vessel. I 



could see the lights on the stern of the 
ship, and was dimly conscious that some 
hand was reaching out for me. Then I 
knew that the lights were the wide staring 
eyes of Mrs. Bentley, who sat next to me 
in the pew, and her hand it was that was 
extended toward me. 

I do not think that I had any definite in- 
tention at the moment our hands met. I 
was simply relieved to get the mastery of 
myself once more. I took her hand gladly, 
for it was a large, motherly hand, and I felt 
like being mothered just then. She smiled 
and turned toward the preacher as if wholly 
assured that my momentary faintness was 
entirely of the past, but she left her hand 
lying in mine as if she would still give me 
of her strength. My eyes ' followed hers, 
but I did not hear what the preacher was 
saying, for the reason that the sight of him, 



A MIX IT IN SOI I.S 



47 



ami the feeling of Mrs. Bentley's band in 
mine, brought vividly before me the startling 
though! which had shocked me into self- 
control just as consciousness was slipping 
away. 

I wondered now if I had heard Dr. Wolf- 
endon aright. He was always a bold and 
progressive thinker, yet I had never heard 
him broach such an idea before, though 
something like it had often passed through 
■ wn mind. But for* Mrs. Bentley's 
warm, living hand, I might have thought 
i still dreaming. It was her very real 
and very human touch which not only re- 
assured me, but suddenly suggested to me 
to prove the almost incredible proposition 
then and there. Our hands were both un- 
gloved, perhaps because the day waa warm, 
though I did not remember removing my 
own. We were both in meditative mood, and 
peculiarly sympathetic by reason of help 
given and received. And the idea possessed 
me, so that 1 knew if it were ever possible 
it could never be more possible than at that 
very moment. 

If I thought at all of her right to be con- 
sulted before the experiment was made, my 
longing to know just a few minutes of per- 
fect health and strength thrust such consid- 
eration aside. I did not figure on the length 
of time the exchange should be continued, 
nor as to how, and whether if the transfer- 
ence were once accomplished a retransfer 
could be made. I felt only with feverish 
eagerness the marvelous possibility, the sug- 
gestion of which had mastered me when 
nearly lost to consciousness, and the singular 
opportunity to test it which that very ex- 
perience had brought me. 

I low soon Mrs. Bentley felt the power of 
my purpose I do not know. I had exerted 
: almost to the point of fainting again, 
when she turned and looked at me with curi- 
ous eyes. The wonder in her eyes grew and 
deepened into profound jierplexity not un- 
mixed with fear as I held her with my gaze. 
She is a very unimaginative woman, but 
either her imagination awoke before we 
passed or else the transfer was accomplished 
before I had full consciousness of it. The 
transition was so sudden at the last I cannot 
be certain about the sensations which just 
immediately preceded it. I know that one 
moment I was looking intently into Mrs. 
Bentley's eyes and the next I wss looking 



out of them at the semblance of my former 
self sitting just where I had sat at the end 
of the pew, while Mr. Bentley drowsed se- 
renely beside me on the other side. 

For a full minute, I should judge, the 
thing that dominated my consciousness was 
the riot of good health which coursed through 
my veins. Though never an invalid for any 
length of time, I have never been robust. 
Besides being at least twenty years younger 
than Mrs. Bentley, I am as compared with 
her a mere child in size snd strength. Imag- 
ine my feelings now as I looked at her. sit- 
ting there in the guise of ray former self, a 
slight, frail woman of less than thirty years, 
whom I felt as if I could take into my arms 
and caress into comfort and calm. I was as 
intoxicated with joy as she was dazed with 
wonder. I could have shouted from shear 
sense of overflowing life. It was this very 
exuberance of spirit which wakened me to 
the embarrassments of my position. For- 
getful for the moment of where I was, I 
opened my mouth wide to take one deep, full 
breath, and expand my ample breast. Some- 
thing in my mouth dropped. My ungloved 
tiand went up just in time to save me from 
the confusion of losing my teeth into my lap. 

The surprise of it brought me bolt up- 
right with a suddenness that shook the pew. 
Perhaps it is fortunate that Mrs. Bentley's 
movements are usually more deliberate than 
mine, in view of the ordinary difference in 
our weight. But it was unfortunate that I 
had forgotten that with all her excellent 
health, Mrs. Bentley, by reason of an acci- 
dent, had lately lost three front teeth, which 
had been replaced more recently with a par- 
tial plate. It was evident that as yet some 
conscious effort on her part was required to 
hold them in place. 

The jar of my surprise awoke Mr. Bent- 
ley so abruptly that his spectacles fell off. 
He picked them up confusedly, and looked at 
me with some alarm. Then, seeing my hand 
at my mouth, a quiet twinkle came to his 
eyes, followed by s mock reproof, which in- 
stantly overwhelmed me with the realization 
that in my p r es en t situation I was Mr. Bent- 
ley's wife. 

Now, Mr. Bentley is twelve years older 
than Mrs. Bentley, and therefore more than 
thirty years my senior. He is reckoned s 
good man, but besides certain habits which I 
could not easily endure in sny rosn, Mr. 



48 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



Bentley has a face not very likely to attract 
any girl as sensitive to good looks as I am. 
Besides there was a much younger and hand- 
somer man no farther off than the pulpit for 
whom I — but never mind my feeling toward 
him. At that time I had hardly confessed 
the sentiment to myself. The mild reproof 
in Mr. Bentley's eyes compelled me to face 
possibilities in my rash and hasty experi- 
ment which made my heart stand still, gen- 
erous and vigorous as that newly acquired 
organ was. Perhaps my face paled, for Mr. 
Bentley's eyes changed to a tenderness which 
did not in the least relieve my distress. 

I turned from him to the little woman at 
the end of the pew whose body I had called 
my own for nearly thirty years, and grasped 
her hand in no motherly way, pressing it 
almost fiercely as I strove with all my mind 
to reverse the wonderful and now terrible 
transference of a few minutes before. The 
soft brown eyes I had heard so often 
praised stared back at me helplessly, as if 
half-comprehending my purpose, but press 
and strive as I would, my consciouness cluDg 
stubbornly to its new habitation. 

"You must help me; you must think your- 
self back again," I said, intensely, for the 
audience now stood and was singing, and we 
two stood with them, hand in hand. Yet 
verse after verse they sang, and all our 
efforts were in vain. Once I thought wildly 
of grasping Mr. Bentley's hand and trans- 
ferring with him in the hope that somehow I 
could get back indirectly to my former place. 
But I refused the suggestion, lest I should 
make matters worse. The service had ceased, 
and Mr. Bentley had hold of my arm and 
was actually leading me out of the pew, 
when, with a desperate resignation to my 
fate, I turned for a farewell handclasp with 
the even more helpless Mrs. Bentley. And 
lo, I was myself again, and Mrs. Bentley, in 
her accustomed buxom body which I had 
just quitted, with a strange, terror-stricken 
glance at me, dropped my hand hastily and 
with her husband hurried down the aisle. 

That last moment when I gave myself up 
for lost and submitted to be led away as Mrs. 
Bentley ought to have been sufficient to deter 
me from ever repeating my extraordinary 
experiment. For weeks afterwards Mrs. 
Bentley was unmistakably shy of me, and I 
shall have to confess that the near approach 
of Mr. Bentley brought back the unspeakable 



sensations which had all but paralyzed me 
into consenting to be his wife the rest of my 
day?. For my own sake as well as Mrs. 
Bentley's, therefore, I was glad to avail my- 
self of some slight excuse and change my 
seat to another quite on the opposite side of 
the church. 

I had occupied the new seat but a short 
while when I fancied a difference in the 
occasional glances of the minister my way. 
He had looked me frankly in the eyes before, 
too frankly I feared, if he knew what 
thoughts I entertained of him. I suppose I 
did not allow sufficiently at the time for the 
fact that the gossip which connected our 
names was much more likely to come to me 
than it was to reach him. I had grown up in 
the church, while Dr. Wolfendon had been 
there less than a year. Besides I was the 
only child of one of the most prominent fam- 
ilies in the church, and had an independent 
fortune in my own right. Add to this that I 
am reckoned more than ordinaraily good 
looking despite my delicate health, have usu- 
ally been credited with an amiable disposi- 
tion, and to the extent of my ability have 
always been active in the church as well as a 
generous supporter of all its work, and it 
can hardly be accounted strange that many 
members, among the women particularly, had 
ventured certain hints and surmises, both 
serious and facetious, which had awakened 
interesting imaginations in my own mind. 
Dr. Wolfendon, though not exactly hand- 
some, is a man of impressive appearance, 
and a very popular preacher. And even be- 
fore he came I had been told .more than once 
that I was destined to be a minister's wife. 

Since my changed position, Dr. Wolfendon 
looked at me less frequently, and, I was sure, 
with far more self-consciousness in his gaze. 
Sometimes I fancied he blushed ever so 
faintly, and with quick diffidence diverted 
his eyes. I was correspondingly elated, I 
admit, and possibly my own eyes- showed a 
degree of sympathy and tenderness which 
heightened the effect in him. I ought to have 
discovered the facts in the case before, and 
it is only fair to myself to say that when I 
saw the situation as it really was, my shame 
and chagrin were due as much to disgust 
with myself as to disappointment on account 
of the minister. I felt it to lose him, but I 
felt it more that I had come so near to 
making a fool of myself. 



A MIX-UP IN SOULS. 



M 



I wonder yet bow I could have been so un- 
utterly stupid as to ignore the fact that 
Mabel Hawkins sat close beside me in the 
new pew. She is four years younger than I, 
and better looking, though there is one man 
who will not admit that last count. But she 
certainly is an exceedingly pretty girl, and 
as loveable in her ways as she is beautiful 
in feature and fonu. I have never blamed 
Dr. Wolfendon for falling in love with ber, 
although I was terribly cut up the Sunday I 
stumbled on the fact that his diffident eager- 
nan when he looked our way was all on her 
account. The revelation came in a moment, 
and I think both of them knew that I bad 
caught them. Fortunately neither of them 
knows to this day that I ever fancied him, or 
supposed that he fancied me. I wish I had 
been as sure of that then as I am now. 

They were a good deal confused, but their 
confusion was nothing to the tumult in me. 
I was angry and amused, ashamed and 
offended, teased and triumphant all at the 
same time. All of this I remember, and 1 
remember also that I did not mean to do 
Mabel Hawkins any wrong, or to steal in dis- 
guise the affection which I had honestly cov- 
eted and which she had quite as honestly and 
entry won. I do not know how it hap- 
pened. I really think that I meant something 
like congratulation, though of course I could 
not say it outright yet, when I took her hand. 
My excitement may have bad something to 
do with it, or again the heat of the day. I 
did not know that it had happened till I saw 
ber suddenly drop in the seat, at the end 
of the pew where I had sat, and then cover 
her face with her hands, and start for the 
doot. I was after her at once, oblivious of 
the curious, half-sympathetic glances of the 
eongregat ; on as we hurried out. 

"Mabel," I cried, as we passed through 
the door, quite forgetful of her appearance, 
•■wait n minute, dear." 

She turned and looked at me, and then 
with a pitiful cry threw her hands to her 
eyes again, and sank into a chair just be- 
side the vestry door. At the same moment 
a handsome looking fellow, with eyes so 
much like Mabel Hawkins's that I ought to 
have recognized bim at once, bounded up the 
steps two or three at a time, and before I 
knew what his intentions were, had gathered 
me into his arms, and kissed me repeatedly 
upon the lips. 



Of course I screamed a little, and drew 
back, only to find myself held tight, and 
looking straight into a pair of loving, laugh- 
ing eyes that thrilled me through and 
through. "What 's the matter, Queen Mab," 
he said. "Dont you know your big brother? 
Of course I ought to have sent you word. 
but I did n't know I was going to get here 
today." 

At the sound of his voice Mabel Hawkins, 
as I can but call her though she wore my 
body then, leaped wildly to her feet and cry- 
ing out, "Oh, Tom, Tom, I'm so glad you 've 
come. Take me home, Tom; there's some- 
thing the matter with me," threw herself into 
his arms before I could fairly get myself 
away. 

Tom Hawkins's fine eyes looked dazed 
enough then. The girl in his arms had her 
own anus so tightly about his neck that be 
could not disengage them at once. I think 
he was not more perplexed by her words and 
her behavior than he was by my manner, 
however, for be regarded me with a ques- 
tioning surprise that forced me to say some- 
thing, though I hardly knew what it was I 
said. 

"She isn't herself, and I'm not myself. 
Perhaps it is the heat. Carry her into the 
vestry, Mr. Hawkins — Tom. I' mean," and I 
blushed, and stumbled awkwardly as I 
turned toward the door which led into the 
side room. 

There was genuine alarm in his eyes now, 
but the people were beginning to come out, 
and he followed me quickly, still carrying 
the fainting girl in his arms. 

"Get me some water, Tom," I said, forcing 
myself to smile upon him as I imagined his 
sister would, but thrilling inwardly at such 
familiar use of his name. "The faucet 's 
in the kitchen ; it 's over there." and I 
pointed to another door. 

He laid the girl down gently enough on a 
settee, releasing himself with difficulty, and 
went to do as I had bidden. I seized her 
hand as soon as he was gone, and tried to 
force myself back, but could not. Just as 
he returned she opened ber eyes and moaned, 
"Ob, Tom, Tom!" and seeing me, snatched 
her hand away and cried out as if I had 
struck her. "Take her away, take ber 
away I" she said. 

"Yon 'd better stand out of ber sight, sis," 
he said to me, giving me a look that filled ma 



50 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



with unutterable thoughts. "She seems 
somehow upset about you, and a little mixed 
up with you," and he smiled at me quiz- 
zically. 

Whether it was the manner in which she 
bad greeted him, or whether it was her really 
touching distress, or whether it was some- 
thing better than either of these, it was evi- 
dent to me immediately that Tom was greatly 
taken with the prostrate girl. And when I 
looked at her and realized who she was in 
physical form, and looking into my own 
consciousness confessed to myself the in- 
stantaneous passion which Tom Hawkins had 
stirred in me, I could have fainted too in 
the agony of my desire to get back to myself 
again. I dared not think yet how this epi- 
sode could be explained or my standing se- 
cured with Tom Hawkins if the retransfer 
were made, or if the query did disturb me 
for an instant, I put it away with the re- 
flection that Tom Hawkins would put the 
whole incident down to the heat of the day 
and sympathetic excitement upon my part, 
or rather upon his sister's part, for as such 
of course he regarded me. 

In the midst of this tumult of desire and 
conjecture the door opened and the Bentleys 
and Dr. Wolfendon came in, followed closely 
by Mr. and Mrs. Wattles, the latter carrying 
a young child in her arms. I knew them all, 
but whether Mabel Hawkins did or not, I 
could not say. Happily Tom Hawkins did 
not wait for introductions, nor did any of 
the newcomers seem to expect anything of 
the kind. 

Dr. Wolfendon looked at me with a solici- 
tude and tenderness in his eyes which ought 
to have moved me to a great gladness had I 
really felt toward him as I had imagined I 
felt. I think he was disappointed at my 
response, for I was simply more confused 
and distressed. The Bentleys paid no atten- 
tion to me, but with an unselfishness and 
courage which I did not appreciate till aft- 
erward, gave themselves to ministering to the 
girl with whom Tom was chiefly concerned. 
Then, in my anxiety and excitement, I lost 
all self-control. "Oh, Mrs. Bentley," I cried, 
"let me help," and clasped her hand. In- 
stantly I had transferred with her. And 
almost as quickly she had collapsed, though 
it seemed to everybody but me that it was 
Tom Hawkins's sister who went dow« in a 
dead faint. 



It was the minister who sprang to her 
help, and I knew a moment afterwards that 
in some marvelous way they had unwittingly 
and unintentionally exchanged. His m nd 
must have been the stronger of the two, for 
the supposed Mabel Hawkins stood up, albeit 
somewhat dazed, and to all appearances the 
minister fainted away. The rest of the com- 
pany looked as if they were on the point of 
either fainting or making for the door. 

The minister was Mabel Hawkins, Mrs. 
Bentley was the minister, I was Mrs. Bent- 
ley, and Mabel Hawkins was I. Fortunately, 
Tom Hawkins, and Mr. Bentley, and the 
Wattles, including the baby, were still them- 
selves. Yet this lasted only for a moment, 
for Mr. Bentley, supposing me to be his 
wife, grabbed my hand to draw me away, 
and instantly had taken possession of his 
wife's buxom body, while I, very unwillingly, 
had possession of his. 

After that I could no longer follow the 
transitions. I only know that Tom Hawkins 
spoke rather gruffly to me, "Here, help me 
lift this girl," and that we had no sooner 
touched hands than he was Mr. Bentley and 
I was Tom. He was so surprised that he 
let go, and our burden rolled heavily on the 
floor. Then I think that Tom and the minis- 
ter must have passed somehow, so that the 
minister was Mr. Bentley and Tom was his 
own sister. Mrs. Wattles handed the baby 
to Mr. Wattles and tried to do something for 
Mrs. Bentley, who was lying unconscious as 
the minister. Mrs. Bentley waked, but got 
mixed up with Mrs. Wattles. I saw the 
minister try to take the baby, and then go 
sprawling' to the floor, where he broke forth 
in the most perfect imitation of baby bawl- 
ing I ever heard. It took me a full minute 
to comprehend that he was the baby, but I 
could not tell whether the baby was the min- 
ister, or Mrs. Bentley, or its own mother. 
Mr. Wattles was the only one who had es- 
caped, and I knew that he was going to get 
mixed up, too, for he had just reached out 
toward the baby, which looked at him in a 
strangely mature, though somewhat be- 
wildered manner, when I somehow got hold 
of the hand that had formerly been mine, 
and lo, I was myself again. And in the same 
instant Mabel Hawkins was Tom. 

"She 's coming to," I heard a deep voice 
say, as I nearly strangled with the water 
somebody was trying to force between my 



UNSPOKEN. 



61 



lil ' — - 1 looked uj) into Turn Hawkins's face, 
hut with the horrible consciousness that be 
was really Mabel. 

"Oh," 1 said, "I'm all right now, hut I've 
• iu awfully mixed up. Everybody's 
somebody else, and I dont see how I'm ever 
going to get you back into your own place. 
If I ever get you straightened out, Tin 
never going to be anybody but myself again." 

Then Tom Hawkins laughed in my face, 
such a kindly, rollicking, wonderful laugh, 
and he and Mabel had me between them, 
and the minister and the rest of them were 
following us to the carriage outside, into 
which they got me and took me home. It 
took Tom, who sat beside me, all the time 
that we were driving home to convince me 
that I had been myself all the time, and that 
I had fainted away as I sat in the pew be- 
side Mrs. Bentley, and had been carried out 
into the vestry, where he had been called to 
doctor me as soon as he came on the scene. 



It took uie a good deal longer to hud out 
that just as I fainted away, the m nutter bad 
actually made some remark about spiritual 
exchange, though he did n't mean it quite as 
I took it, of course. It was Mabel who told 
me this, after she and Dr. Wolfendon were 
engaged. But it wasn't until after another 
engagement which interested me a good deal 
more was announced that Tom confessed to 
me the sweet surprise with which he heard 
me call out his name when I was dead to 
everybody else, and before he knew that I 
had so much as heard of him. 

"But did you really kiss me then and 
there f" I asked, thrilling anew at the mem- 
ory of my dream. 

"Or did you throw your arms about my 
neck, and ask me to take you on sight f" he 
answered, teasingly. 

"Oh, I did n't, Tom," I said. 

"Perhaps I dreamed, too," he replied. 
And then I hid my face in his arms. 



Unspoken 

By Ralph I.. Han 



So small upon this lonely hill I lie, 
O'erwhelmed beneath a bursting storm of stars! 
And long for poet's strength to break the bars 
That doom the soul's expression to a cry; 
For lyre, winged words to match the 
A skill to paint the glory weakness mars, 
A touch to 'wake the music that declares 
The cherished thought is destined not to die. 
So might I dip my pen in midnight blue, 
And write upon some future ancient scroll 
The stru-^ling verse that tries to tell anew 
The same eternal burden of the soul — 
That inward-stirring dun.', response to bird, 
And sky, and stream, that sings, although unheard. 



The Settler 



By Herman Whitaker 



SUMMARY OF PRECEDING CHAPTERS. 
The storj opens In the "Park Lands of the Fertile Belt" in Northern Manitoba with a scene between 
Carter, "The Settler," a young American of the Middle States, and one nines, a low-caste Canadian, who is 
trespassing on unpatented hay lands that belong, by settler custom, to Morrill, a young American lawyer, 
who is dying of consumption. Calling on Morrill after disposing of Hlnes, Carter learns that his sister. 
Helen, has been left homeless by the death of their father, and will be at Lone Tree Station, sixty miles 
away, the following day. Goes to meet her, and while waiting for her train acts as spokesman for a 
deputation with a petition for a branch line, and much impresses the general manager of the road by 
his knowledge and address. So is laid the foundation for the historic railway struggle in future chapters. At 
first sight, Helen Morrill classifies Carter with her tradesmen at home, and is much disconcerted at the end 
of a reckless drive to find that he has been trying her out by his own peculiar standards. Discovering that 
Hines has incited Bender, a brutal giant of the lumber woods, to trespass on Morrill's hay rights. Carter 
outwits the pair by calling the neighbors in for a mowing "bee." Angered, thereafter, by a taunt from 
Hines, Bender -cuts on him Instead, and, afraid to venture out himself, Hlnes sends Jenny, his orphan child, 
a thin, overworked girl of seventeen, to rake hay that is spoiling in the sun. Relenting, Bender cocks her 
hay, but not until, at midnight a month later, he picks her up on the prairie, turned outdoors by her father, 
does he realize the real cause of the sick misery in her eyes. Confined in his cabin, he. his chum, the 
Cougar, Carter and the Morrills, silence Hines and conspire successfully to keep the wronged child within 
their rough social pale; ind the delicacy which all display in the matter gives Helen a new viewpoint and 
mightily raises Carter in her estimation. Determined to win her, he makes himself necessary to her by his 
kindness, consideration and helpfulness through Morrill's long sickness and death; is true to her under 
temptation from Mrs. Leslie, a stylish Englishwoman, and wins her away from Molyneux, a retired captain 
of English cavalry and exploiter of "farm pupils." This forms the first climax. The second section opens 
one year after the Carters' marriage. Everything has gone wrong. The promised branch was not built, the 
frost destroys their grain, Helen's clothing is grown more than shabby, she is aware of a coarsening of 
body, feels herself being dragged down, down, down to the low level of the gaunt settler women. At a 
picnic she Is humiliated by the rough badinage of neighboring women until rescued by Mrs. Leslie and 
Molyneux, and goes thence in a condition of active rebellion against her lot. In the eleventh chapter her 
humiliation Is crowned by a visit from wealthy and cultured Eastern friends; and, knowing that they are 
coming, she Is influenced by pique, chance and Mrs. Leslie's temptation, and so allows her husband to go 
away for a week's Jaunt to the lumber woods without informing him of the proposed visit. Carter, how- 
ever, turns up unexpectedly. The outcome of the misunderstanding is that Helen is left to herself while 
Carter goes to logging in a grim determination to forget the sorrow of his married life. 




CHAPTER XVI. 

A House Party. 

^NE morning some three weeks 
after Molyneux's departure, 
Helen sat in her doorway, 
reading, as certain an indica- 
tion of Spring as the honk 
of the wild geese speeding 
northward on the back of the amorous south 
wind. As yet the prairie sloughs wore mail 
of ice, but from dizzy heights those keen- 
eyed voyageurs discerned tricklings and wee 
pools under sheltered forest banks, sufficient 
till the laggard sun should smite the snows 
and fill the air with tinklings and gurglings, 
loose the strange sound of running waters 
on the frozen silence. Another month would 
do it. Already the drifts were packing and 
the hard trails traversed the sinking snows 
like mountain chains on a relief map. In 
Helen's dooryard, stratas of yellow chips, 
debris of the Winter's furious firing, were 
beginning to appear — with them lost articles ; 
indoed, Nels was gobbling joyously over the 

Copyright, 1907. by 



retrieval of an axe when Leslie's team and 
cutter came swinging into the yard. 

Mrs. Leslie was driving and, seeing Helen, 
screamed from a hundred yards, "They are 
coming! All of 'em!" 

"Who?" Helen asked, when the ponies 
stopped at the door. 

"Why Edith Newton, Mrs. Jack Charters, 
Sinclair Rhodes — you remember? I told you 
that I should givea house party for the 
Regis folks when the frosts let up. Hurry 
and pack up your war paint ! They '11 be 
here tomorrow and I need your help. No 
refusal ! Fred is going in to Lone Tree to- 
morrow and Jenny can go down with him; 
Nels will cook for himself, wont you, Nels?" 

"I tank I can cook, yes." Nels ceased his 
jubilations over the axe long enough to sea- 
son his assent with a bleached grin. 

"There! it's all fixed." Bustling inside, 
she talked volubly while assisting in Helen's 
selections. "Yes, take that, you look your 
sweetest in it, and I imported Captain Chap- 
man especially for you. That also, you '11 
need it evenings. No, Captain Charters is n't 

Harper and Brothers 



THK SKTTLER. 



53 



coming. Some Indian trouble called him 
west. Oh, Mrs. Jack wont care — I'm the 
loser, for he was always my cavalier." 

Driving home, she rattled steadily, enter- 
taining Helen with descriptions of her ex- 
pected guests, giving their pedigrees, aristo- 
cratic connections, while she spiced her dis- 
course with malicious fact. Sinclair K 
had secured his appointment as land agent at 
Regis through distant cousinship to the Gov- 
ernor-General. And why notT The offices 
ought to go to well-bred people! He had 
money, must have, for his salary and ex- 
penses were out of all proportion — so much 
so as to cause comment by malicious people, 
envious souls! What if he did make a little. 
as they said, on the sidef The government 
could afford it and everyone knew what Ca- 
nadians were in office! People who live in 
glass houses, and so forth! It was simply 
racial envy ! She was also becomingly in- 
dignant over the action of certain Canadians 
who had made trouble for Captain Chapman 
in the matter of Mounted Police supplies. 
What figure did a few tons of provisions cut 
in a gentleman's accounts T These commer- 
cial intellects with their mathematical exact- 
ness were horrid! Newton f He was an ap- 
pointee of Rhodes! No! no relation — she 
waived further description of the Newtons. 
omitted the pregnant fact that Charles New- 
ton's presence cut as little figure in his wife's 
social calculations as Captain Charters' ab- 
sence did in those of Mrs. Jack. 

Caution, doubtless, counseled the omission. 
The quail is not flushed till the net be spread. 
Yet the reservation was hardly necessary in 
ttio light of Helen's condition. Judgment of 
another's action is colored by one's own 
mental state, and she was not so likely to be 
shocked by one who had defied the conven- 
tions against which she herself was in open 
mutiny. Anyway, she liked Mrs. Jack at 
first sight, despite the scandalous manner in 
which she flirted with Charles Newton the 
first night at table. Big, tall, and fair, large 
eyes expressed her saving grace, an unpar- 
alleled frankness that seemed to sterilize her 
flirtations and rob them of impropriety. 
Twice during the meal she retailed Newton's 
tender asides to his wife, asking, laughingly, 
if the recognized the vintage. 

However, being, as yet, in happy ignorance 
of many things that would soon cause her 
serious disquiet. Helen thoroughly enjoyed 



that first evening. The well-appointed table 
with its sparkling glass, silver, snowy napery, 
the well-groomed people and their correct 
speech alike fed her starved aesthetic senses 
while they aroused dormant social qualities. 
She laughed, chattered, capped Mrs. Jack's 
sallies, displaying animation and wit that 
simply astonished Mrs. Leslie. Her wonder, 
indeed, caused Edith Newton to whisper in 
Mrs. Jack's ear: 

"Elinor looks as though she had imported 
a swan in mistake for a duckling. Look at 
Sinclair — positively smitten. Giving her all 
his attention, though he took Elinor in. The 
girl seems to like him, too." 

Mrs. Jack's big eyes rested on the laugh- 
ing face turned up to Rhodes. "Dont be- 
lieve a word he says, my dear," she suddenly 
called across the table. "And look out for 
him. He 's dangerous." 

Though she laughed, as she spoke, Rhodes 
must have sensed a serious motive behind Iter 
hilarity, for he glanced up with quick annoy- 
ance. "Do I look itf" he asked, turning 
again to Helen. 

Nature does not lie. His narrowly spaced 
eyes, salient facial angles, dull skin, heavy 
lips, carried his certificate of degeneracy. A 
physiognomist would have pronounced him 
dangerous to innocence as a wild beast on 
less evidence, but to Helen's inexperience he 
appeared as a man unusually -handsome, pro- 
file or front face. The significant angles did 
not alter the good modelling of his nose and 
chin or affect the regularity of his features. 
Tall, slim, irreproachable in manner and 
dress, there was no scratch to reveal the base 
metal beneath his electroplate refinement. 

"You certainly dont," she answered, 
laughing. 

"Then," he said, with mock gravity, "I 
can patiently suffer the sting of calumny." 

"Calumnyt" Mrs. Jack echoed, teasingly. 
"Calumny t What's that T" 

"Synonym for conscience," Edith New- 
ton put in, with a spice of malice. For 
though the conquest of Rhodes — to which 
Regis gossip wickedly laid her husband's ap- 
pointment in the land office — was now stale 
with age and tiresome to herself, she was 
selfish enough to resent his defection. 

Her husband joined in the badinage. "Sin- 
clair found it while rummaging Fred's coat 
for matches." 

Now Leslie's simplicity was as much of a 



54 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



joke to them as it was with the Canadian set- 
tlers, and under cover of the laugh Captain 
Chapman, a big blonde of the moustached 
dragoon type — the type which wins Eng- 
land's cricket matches while losing all her 
wars — leaned over and whispered in New- 
ton's ear. "Leslie will lose more than his 
conscience if he does n't look out. La belle 
Elinor is badly smitten." Aloud, he said, 
"Sinclair would n't know what to do with it, 
Mrs. Newton, I assure you." 

"I might pass it on to you," Rhodes re- 
torted, then, turning to Helen, he said, 
"Hearken not to the tongue of envy, Mrs. 
Carter. I'm a very sober person." 

Believing it all pleasant fooling, she 
laughed at his mock seriousness, and there- 
after gave him so much of her attention that 
it became a subject of comment. "Rhodes is 
making heavy running there," Newton said, 
toward the close of the evening; and, con- 
ceitedly stroking his yellow mustache, Chap- 
man answered, "Wait till I get my innings." 

"After me," Newton answered. "I'm next 
at the bat." 

The early days of the party Helen found 
equally enjoyable. On the frontier, amuse- 
ment is a home product and shares the su- 
periority of domestic jams and jellies over 
the commercial article. They caught the 
fickle damsel, Pleasure, coming and going, 
reaping the satisfaction of spectator and en- 
tertainer. By day they skated, drove, or 
curled on a rink which Leslie had laid out; 
nights, they sang, danced, played games, 
romped like children. 

Apart from a certain freedom in their in- 
tercourse — which she attributed to long ac- 
quaintance — Helen found nothing objection- 
able in the demeanor of her new friends dur- 
ing those first few days. On the contrary, 
she thought them a trifle dull. Their pre- 
glacial and ponderous humor excited her 
risibility; she laughed as often at as with 
them. At other times she could not but feel 
that they regarded her as alien, a pretty 
pagan without their social pale, and she 
would revolt against their enormous egotism, 
insolent national conceit. She broke many 
a lance on that impregnable shield. 

"You English," she flashed back when, 
one evening, Newton reflected on American 
pronunciation of certain English family 
names, "you Engl ; sh remind me of the Jews 
with their Sibboleth and Shibboleth. Is vour 



aristocracy so doubtful of its own identity 
that it was compelled to hedge itself against 
intrusion by the use of passwords? You may 
call Cholmondeley 'Chumley' if you choose, 
but we commit no crime in pronouncing it as 
spelled." 

Again when Edith Newton rallied her on 
some crude custom which she maintained was 
peculiarly American, Helen delivered a sharp 
riposte. "No, I never saw it done at home, 
but I have heard that it is quite common 
among English emigrants on trans-Atlantic 
liners." Such tiffs were, however, rare, and, 
to do them justice, men and women hastened 
to sacrifice national conceit on the altars of 
her wounded susceptibilities. 

Offense came later, on quite another score. 
At first she liked the attention paid her; the 
gallantry of the men put her on better terms 
with herself, renewed the confidence which 
had diminished to the vanishing point dur- 
ing her months of loneliness. But when 
constant association thawed the reserve nat- 
ural to first acquaintance and freedom 
evolved into familiarity, her instincts took 
alarm. Distressed, she observed the other 
women to see if she had been singled out. 
But no, they seemed quite comfortable under 
similar attentions, and they rallied her when 
she unfolded her misgivings at afternoon 
tea. 

"You should n't be so pretty, my dear," 
Mrs. Jack said, lai)gb::ig. "What can the 
poor men do?" Then they made fun of her 
scruples, satirising conventions and institu- 
tions which she had always regarded as nec- 
essary if not God-ordained. 

"Marriage," Edith Newton once cynically 
exclaimed, "is merely a badge of respecta- 
bility; useful as a shield from the slings 
and arrows." And from the depths of her 
own degeneracy she evolved the utterance, 
"Men are all beasts beneath the skin. Wise 
women use them for pleasure or profit." 

Helen revolted at that; it transcended her 
mutiny. But few people are made of martyr 
stuff — perhaps fortunately so; martyrs are 
uncomfortable folk and, wise in her eternal 
generation, Nature sprinkles them lightly 
over the mass of common clay. The average 
person easily takes the color of environment, 
so why not Helen? Thinking that, perhaps, 
she was a little prudish, she stifled her fears, 
tried to imitate the nonchalance of the 
others. She even made a few tentative at- 



THE BETTLEH. 



55 



tempts at daring — alas! as well expect a 
rabbit to ruffle it with wolves. Such immedi- 
ate and unwelcome results followed that she 
retired precipitously behind ramparts of 
blushing reserve. But the damage was done. 
Thereafter Chapman, Newton, Rhodes, one 
or another was constantly at her elbow; she 
was unpleasantly conscious that, having 
taken down her fences, they looked upon her 
as free game. 

The thought stirred her to fight. Chap- 
man, big man of the yellow mustache cav- 
alry type, she disposed of with a single re- 
buff that sent him back to Mr>. Jack's 
side. But Newton proved unmanageable. 
Impervious to snubs, his manner conveyed 
his idea that her modesty was simply a blind. 
His familiarities bordered on license. A 
good singer, he always asked her to play his 
accompaniments of evenings, and she would 
sicken as he used the pretense of turnini; a 
leaf to lean against her shoulder. At other 
times he made occasion to touch her; would 
pick threads from her jacket; lean across 
her to speak to her neighbor at table. 

By such tactics, he brought her. one morn- 
ing, to great confusion. A Cree Indian had 
driven in from the Assinaboine reserve with 
beadwork, moccasins and badger skin mit- 
tens, which he wished to trade for flour or 
bacon. With the other women, Helen was 
bending over to examine his wares, when 
Newton softly entered the kitchen. Stepping 
quietly up from behind, he laid a hand on 
Helen's hair. Taking him for one of the 
other women, she suffered it till Mrs. Leslie, 
who knew he was there, asked his opinion 
on a tobacco pouch. Then, before she could 
move, speak, cast off his hand, he pressed 
her head against h's wife's dark curls. 

"Just look at the contrast!" he admiringly 
exclaimed, and so robbed her anger. 

Yet so evident was the intent behind the 
excuse that even the Cree detected the sham. 
From Helen his brown glance traveled to 
Newton and back again. "He your mant" 
he asked. 

Vexed to the point of tears, she shook her 
head and bent over the beadwork to hide her 
embarrassment. But the Cree's rude notions 
of etiquette had .been jarred. Touching her 
shoulder, he sa*id, "He touch your hair." 

So simple, his comment yet pierced to the 
heart of the matter. Newton had fondled 
her hair, crown and svmbol of her woman- 



hood, a privilege of marriage. In an Indian 
tribe the offense would have loosed the 
slipping knife; a settler would have resented 
it with gnarled fist; but here the women tit- 
tered, while Chapman, who had also saun- 
tered in, laughed. 

Emboldened, perhaps, by immunity, the 
man's offensiveness developed into actual in- 
sult the evening of that same day. They 
had all been pulling taffy in the kitchen and, 
passing through a dark passage to the living- 
room, Helen felt an arm slip about her waist. 
Newton's face was still tingling from a vi-..r 
ous slap when she confronted him before 
them all in the living-room. Even bis hardi- 
hood quailed before her flushed and con- 
temptuous anger; he was not quite so ready 
with his excuse. 

"I beg your pardon, Mrs. Carter! Really, 
I mistook you for my wife." 

It was a lie on the face of it and, barbed 
with stinging truth, her retort drew a peal 
of laughter from the others. "Indeed? Your 
excuse is more remarkable than your mis- 
take." 

Offended as much by the laugh as the in- 
sult, she seated herself on a lounge by 
Leslie, the one man with whom she always 
felt safe. In him the stigma of degeneracy 
took another form ; the tired blood expressed 
itself in a prodigious simplicity. He lacked 
even the elements of vice. As his wife put 
it, "Fred is too stupid to be wicked." Yet 
withal he was very much of a man as far as 
his chuckleheadedness permitted, and now he 
offered real sympathy. 

"It was a caddish trick, Mrs. Carter, and 1 
mean to tell him so." 

"Oh, no!" she pleaded. "It wouldn't im 
prove matters to make a scene and he 's not 
likely to offend again. Please dont. Slav 
here — with me." 

"But I'm your host. Really, he deserves 
a thrashing." 

"No, no! Stay here! I dont feel equal 
to the otli> 

"I never do." Sitting again, he turned on 
her a look of beaming fellowship. "The girls 
all yawn and look terribly bored when I try 
to amuse them — except you. They dont seem 
to care for horses and dogs, the things that 
interest me." 

If, as a conversationalist, he did not shine, 
he at least brought her the first easy moments 
she had known that dav. and she turned a 



56 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



sympathetic ear to some of his prattle. In- 
dicating Rhodes, who was leaning over Mrs. 
Leslie, he said, "You know I dont like that 
sort of thing. Elinor says I'm old-fashioned 
and I suppose she knows. Of course, she 
wouldn't do anything that wasn't proper, 
but a fellow has his feelings, and it does n't 
take a crime to hurt them, does it? She's 
up on the conventions, but it does seem to me 
that if a fellow has anything to say to an- 
other fellow's wife, he ought to say it aloud." 

Astonished that his dullness should have 
sensed the pervading sensualism, she studied 
him while he watched his wife, in his eyes 
something of that pitiful pleading one sees in 
a beaten dog. His words, moreover, banished 
her doubts as to whether her own misgivings 
did not root in hypercritical standards; re- 
stored her viewpoint. All week the atmos- 
phere had thickened as constant association 
banished reserve, and today freedom had at- 
tained its meridian. It was not the matter, 
but the manner of conversation that filled her 
with a great uneasiness — the whispers, asides, 
smiling stares, conscious laughter. The 
vitiated atmosphere caused her a feeling akin 
to suffocation, and in the midst of her sick 
revulsion Leslie dropped a remark that came 
like a breath of ozone. 

"I was awfully sorry to hear of the trou- 
ble between you and Carter. I always 
thought him such a fine fellow. He hadn't 
much use for me — any of us — still I liked 
him. He was a bit in the rough, of course, 
but I tell you character counts more than cul- 
ture, strength than refinement." 

Character counts more than culture, 
strength than refinement! To his simplicity 
had been vouched wisdom worthy of a phil- 
osopher. The phrase stabbed her. Up rose 
a vision of her husband as she had seen 
him that last miserable night, cold, stern, in- 
exorable, in the loom of the moonlight. In 
view of that colossal memory the Englishmen 
about her dwarfed to effeminate insignifi- 
cance. Vividly her own doubting recurred. 
And she had traded him — for this! The 
thought brought wretchedness too great for 
concealment. Her uneasiness was so mani- 
fest as to form the theme of a bedroom con- 
versation. 

Though comfortable — the one frame house 
in the settlements, a palace to Canadian 
eyes — Leslie's house boasted only two bed- 
rooms; so while the men made shift on 



shakedowns, Helen shared Mrs. Leslie's room, 
Edith Newton and Mrs. Jack the other. 

As she braided her hair for the night, the 
latter lady opened the conversation. "Did 
you notice how uncomfortable little Carter 
was this evening? She is a nice little thing, 
but she does n't mix. I dont see why Elinor 
invited her." 

"You dont, eh?" Edith Newton mumbled a 
mouthful of pins. "You are slow, Maud." 

"No — only lazy. Why should I puzzle 
over things when you are here? I'll bet you 
have pumped everybody dry long ago. Now — 
dispense." 

"I dont go round with my eyes shut," the 
other calmly answered. "To begin: Calvert 
Molyneux is completely gone on little Carter, 
whose husband, it seems left her because of 
some slight." 

"Hum!" Mrs. Jack elevated straight 
brows. "Foolish man to leave her to Calvert. 
So that is why he went home. Exits till the 
tarnished pearl be regulped by the conjugal 
oyster ! Clever !" 

"On the contrary" — she curled a full red 
lip — "he contemplates honorable marriage — 
dalliance, Dakota, divorce, everything that 
begins with D — down to eventual desertion 
if I know anything of Calvert. But fancv — 
HE?" 

" 'The devil in love, the devil a husband 
would be,' " Mrs. Jack misquoted. 

" 'The devil married, the devil a husband 
was he,' " Edith Newton finished. "But he is 
not married yet. She holds him off — foolish- 
ly. For you know Calvert — good in streaks, 
but ruled by his emotions and ruthless when 
they command. If she turns him down — " 

" — she '11 need to keep him at longer dis- 
tance than this house affords. But Elinor? 
This does n't explain her. She 's beastly sel- 
fish under her jolly little skin. Why is she 
posing as aid and advocate of love ?" 

"In love with Carter hubby — or 'was' would 
be more correct in view of her carryings-on 
with Sinclair. But the Carter attack, I 
understand, was very severe while it lasted. 
Think of it, Maud — Elinor to fall in love 
with a settler!" 

Mrs. Jack elevated naked shoulders. "Not 
at all surprising. Just the itching of her 
rotten blood for a few sound corpuscles. I've 
felt it myself at times. Dont look so 
shocked — you know we are rotten." 

"Maud! Maud!" 



THE SETTLEK. 



I Jack regarded her companion through nar- 
rowed lids. "I believe, Edith, yon keep up 
appearances with yourself. Why not be nat- 
ural for a change? But as you say. Elinor 
jMiin to have made a complete conval- 
escence. Did you ever see a woman make a 
projectile of herself like she doesf Positive- 
ly hurls herself at Sinclair. But tell me more 
•boot the Carter man. How did he treat her 
rabies T" 

"Cold water cure. Turned her down — 
flat." 

"So, in revenge she 's trying to besmirch 
the wifeT The little devil! I call that pretty 
raw, Edith !" 

The other shrugged. "Oh, well, it is her 
pie, and if she prefers it uncooked it is 
none of our business. Better keep your 
fingers out of it, Maud. Struggle with your 
good intentions." 

Mrs. Jaek smiled sweetly. "My dear, am 
I in the habit of messing alien piesf" 
' unless yon covet the meat." 

"Well, I'm not hankering after either Cal- 
vert or Carter hubby — though I must say 
that I like his specifications. Showed aw- 
fully good taste both in selecting his wife 
ami rejecting Elinor. Fancy! a virtuous 
man — in this day I" 

By this time Edith Newton was disposed 
in bed. A sleepy answer came from under 
the clothing. "Proves he had n't the honor 
•ur acquaintance." 

"Nor yours," Mrs. Jack retorted. 

Her flippancy masked a disquiet so grave 
as to drive away the desire for sleep. Clad 
only in her bed-gown, she drew a chair up 
to the stove which returned her thoughtful 
gaze through two red monocles of isinglass. 
In her. fair play was associated with its 
companion virtue, frankness, and in no wise 
could she read a mite of the former quality 
into Elinor I^eslie's intent toward Helen. 
After many uneasy shruggings, she rose, 
[■•"k the lamp, and walked into the other bed- 
room. 

"Misplaced my comb," she answered Mrs. 
Leslie's sleepy inquiry. "Lend me yours." 
Then she paused at the foot of the bed. 

Helen had coiled her hair for the night, but 
its unruly masses had loosened and ran, a 
perfect cataract of gold, over her pillow. 
Atrainst that auriferous background lay her 
head and face with its delicate creams and 



67 



pinks sinking into the plumpness of one 
white arm. The other was folded over the 
softness of her bosom. Mrs. Jack thought 
her asleep till her eyes opened, then, return- 
ing the girl's smile, she tiptoed back to her 
tire. 

'It 's a d — shame," she told herself, pro- 
fanely, but truly, and with such vigor that 
Edith Newton asked, sleepily, "What's the 
matter t Aren't you ever coming to bedf" 

"Saying my prayers. Go to sleep." 

"Put in a word for me," the other mur- 
mured. 

"The Lord knows that you need it." 
Jack glanced at the bed, then returned to her 
musings. "Of course she 's a little fool. If 
she goes back to her husband she will have to 
settle down to the humdrum of settler life, 
raise calves, chickens, pigs and children in 
the fear of the Lord, with only a church 
picnic or some such wild dissipation to break 
the deadly monotony. A pleasing prospect. 
I must say. But if it suits her — well, I'm 
not going to see her delivered, bound and 
bleating into the hands of the devil, alia* 
Calvert Molyneux. It seems a shame, either' 
way, but she undoubtedly loves her settler 
hubby and she 's just the kind to eat out her 
heart through remorse and shame. And 
here is Elinor, blackening her reputation 
with the pi? settlers to whom she must look 
for a living, making reconciliation impos- 
sible. Well, I'm going to speak to the little 
fool tomorrow." 

This she did, making her opportunity by 
carrying Helen off to her bedroom, where, 
having disposed her victim in a comfortable 
chair, she herself snuggled down upon the 
bed and went with customary frankness 
straight to the heart of her subject. "I want 
to know, Helen Carter, why you are heret" 

Puzzled, Helen stared, then interpreting 
by the smile, she answered, "I— really, I — 
dont know." 

"A — pretty — poor — reason !" She shook 
her finger in affected anger. "Dont you 
know that you dont belong? Now dont fire 
np! If I were Edith Newton or Elinor, the 
cat, you might suspect a reflection. It isn't 
that you are below grade — just the opposite. 
Frankly, my dear, we are a rotten lot; a 
sweet girl with conscience and morality has 
no business among us. We could n't scrape 
up enough of either article to outfit a re- 
spectable cat. Dont blush — I'm not envying 



58 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



you your conscience. It is a most uncom- 
fortable asset and, given choice of two evils, 
I'd take a hare lip. But as you have one — 
well, you'd better mizzle, go home, you 
know." 

Having eased herself of this delivery, Mrs. 
Jack sighed, sat up, rolled herself a cigarette, 
and went on, after a contented puff, "Dont 
(ell on me, my dear. Not that I care a 
whoop — that 's American, is n't it ? I love 
your slang; it is so expressive and comfort- 
able to the feelings. But you see rakishness 
has no attraction for the fool male of our 
species. He resents any infringement of his 
monopoly. Even such a degenerate ass as 
Charlie Newton prefers schoolgirl simplicity. 
So one must needs simulate virgin inno- 
cence — however painful. That 's more of 
your delightful slang. Now — when are you 
going?" 

The question anticipated the conclusion of 
Helen's midnight tossings, but if unchanged 
in substance this had nevertheless been modi- 
fied by cooler morning reflections. She stated 
the qualifications — Jenny was visiting in 
Lone Tree and would not return till Satur- 
day! Only two more days. Her visit would 
then come to a natural end, so why offend by 
abrupt departure? 

Mrs. Jack laughed. "I dont think Elinor 
would be so very dreadfully offended. Why? 
Well— it is ungracious to criticise one's hos- 
tess, but — you have trapped her rabbit." 

"Her— rabbit?" 

"Yes — Sinclair Rhodes." 

"Why — he paid me less attention than any 
of the others ; was less — you '11 pardon me — 
offensive. I even thought he tried to keep 
them away." 

"As the lion drives the jackals from his 
prey. Avoid him, my dear. Well, I sup- 
pose that a couple more days wont hurt. We 
are to stay a week longer, and if Elinor asks 
you to stay — which she wont — you must re- 
fuse. Now we must go out before they begin 
to suspect a conspiracy." 

"But first let me thank you— I have been 
so miserable and you have done me so much 
good." 

Mrs. Jack gently patted the hand that 
caught her arm ; an action totally at variance 
with her answer. "Self-interest, I assure 
you. Elinor is not the only sufferer. You 
have depleted the entire preserve. Not a 
man has looked at me the last three davs. 



There, there! Dont look so shocked. You 
need n't believe it if you dont want to." 

Could Mrs. Jack's frank eyes have pierced 
the immediate future she would have made 
her warning against Rhodes more specific. 
On Thursday of that week Leslie drove his 
heavy team and bobs into Lone Tree for sup- 
plies and, what of the thawing trails, could 
not possibly be back till all hours Saturday 
night. Not knowing this, Mrs. Jack made no 
objection when, Saturday morning, Danvers 
drove over with Molyneux's double cutter 
and carried off herself and the Newtons to 
visit a friend west of the Assinaboine. You 
wont go home till after supper," she said to 
Helen, leaving. "So I wont say good-bye." 

But she miscalculated both the warmth of 
the friend's welcome and the heavy sledding. 
When she returned, long after dark, she 
found Mrs. Leslie reading a novel by her 
bedroom stove. In a loose wrapper, crossed 
feet comfortably propped on the plated stove 
rail, a plate of red apples at her elbow, and 
the light comfortably adjusted on the table 
behind her, she was the picture of comfort. 
"Having a jolly good time all by myself," 
she explained. "Fred 's not home yet, and 
Captain Chapman went over to win a little 
from Ernest Poole at poker. Helen? Just 
gone. She waited and waited and waited, 
but you were so late that we both thought 
you had concluded to stay the night. Did n't 
you pass her at the Forks, or hear the bells? 
That double string of Fred's can be heard 
to heaven on a still night." 

"Oh, was that her? Hired man came for 
her, I suppose?" Mrs. Jack indifferently in- 
quired as she laid off her furs. 

"No, Sinclair drove her with our ponies. 
What's the matter?" 

Eyes dark and dilated with fear, Mrs. Jack 
faced her. "Do you mean to tell me — " 
Breaking hastily off, she ran. through bed 
and living-rooms, almost upsetting Newton 
on her way to the outer door. "Mr. Dan- 
vers ! Oh, Mr. Danvers ! Mr. Danvers ! Mr. — 
Danvers !" she called. 

But the night returned only the clash of 
his bells. 

Sweeping back in, she faced Mrs. Leslie, 
flushed with the one righteous emotion of her 
fast life. "You let her go out — alone — with 
that — " Choking, she ran into her own room 
and slammed the door, leaving the other two 
women staring. 



TilK SETTLER. 



lift 
of 



of the 
Maud's 



eyebrows. "Avther 
raves." 

CHAPTER XVII. 

> — and Its Finale. 

UT for the bells and groan 
of runners — which drowned 
sound for them even as it did 
for Danvers — Helen and 
Rhodes were near enough to 
have heard Mrs. Jack's call. 
Interpreting the latter's warning morally, 
Helen had accepted Rhodes' escort as leaser 
of two evils, or if she had speculated on 
tentative attempts at flirtation, had not 
doubted her own ability to snub them. 

A sodden frost. Winter's last desperate 
clutch at the throat of Spring, had hardened 
the sun-rotted trails, and as the cutter sped 
swiftly over the first mile, she chatted freely 
without thought of danger. Of the three 
male guests, Rhodes had, as aforeseen, pes- 
tered her least, so, ignorant of the pitiless 
brutality masked by his reserve, she was 
paralyzed, almost fainted when his arm sud- 
denly dropped from the cutter rail to her 

•vering, she spoke sharply, "Take it 



M 




.r.vav 



M 



"ad, he drew her tighter. She could 
not see his face, hut as she struck, madly, 
blindly, at its dim whiteness, his laugh, heart- 
less, cynical, came out of the dusk. "Kick, 
bite, scratch all you want, my little beauty," 
he said, forcing his face against hers. "Your 
struggles are sweet as caresses." 

Yet withal his boast, he found it difficult 
to hold her. Twice she broke his grip and 
almost leaped from the sleigh, and as she 
fought his face away, her hand suddenly 
touched the reins looped over his arm. 

In the black confusion, he was unable to 
specify just what happened thereafter. He 
knew that, alarmed by the scuffling, the 
ponies had hurst into a gallop. But though 
he felt her relax, he could not see her throw 
all of her weight into a sudden jerk on the 
left rein. Ensued a heaving, tumultuous mo- 
ment. Pulled from the trail, the ponies 
plunged in deep drift. The cutter bucked 
like a live thing, and as it dropped from 
the high trail a runner cracked with a 
pistol report; simultaneously, they were 
thrown out into deep, cold snow. 



They fell clear of each other, and Helen 
heard Rhodes swearing as he ran to the 
ponies' heads. The sound spurred her to 
action. She could only count on a minute. 
and, rising, she ran, stumbling, falling head- 
long in drifts, to rise and plunge on, in her 
heart the terror of the hunted thing. Each 
second she expected to hear his pom ng 
foot. But he had to tie the ponies to a 
prairie poplar, and by that time she had 
gained a bluff two hundred yards away, and 
was crouched like a chased hare in its heart. 

That poor covert would not have suflieed 
against a frontiersman. Tracking by the 
fainter whiteness of broken snow, he would 
soon have flushed the trembling game, but it 
was ample protection from Rhodes' inelli- 
ciency. Alarmed when he saw that she was 
gone, he ran back and forth, shouting, 
coupling her name with promises of good 
behavior. As her line of flight had angled 
but slightly from the trail, she heard him 
plainly. 

"My God! You'll freeze! Mrs. Carter! 
Oh, Mrs. Carter! Do come out ! I was only 
joking !" 

She did not require his assurance as to 
the freezing. Already her l'mbs were numb, 
her teeth chattered so loudly she was afraid 
he would hear. But she preferred the I 
mercy to his, and so lay, shivering, until in 
despair, be got the ponies back to the trail 
and drove rapidly away. Then she came out 
and headed homeward like a bolting rabbit. 
Twice she was scared back into the snow. 
Once when Rhodes turned about and dashed 
down and back the trail. Again just before 
she picked Leslie's voice from passing bells. 
He was merely talking to his horses, but 
never before had his voice fallen so sweetly 
on pretty ears. 

As at some wan ghost, he stared at the 
dim draggled figure that came up to him out 
of the snow: indeed, half-frozen and wholly 
frightened, she was little more than the ghost 
of herself. "The cad !" he stormed, hearing 
her story. "I'll punch his head tomorrow!" 
And he maintained that rude intention up 
to the moment that he dropped her at her 
own door. 

"Dont!" she called after him. "Elinor 
wont like it!" But the caution was for Us 
own good, and she was not so very much east 
down when he persisted. 

"Then she can lump it !" he shouted b«»k. 



60 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



The proverb gives the Trampled Worm 
rather more than due credit when one remem- 
bers that a barrel hoop can out-turn the very 
fiercest worm, but it should be remembered 
in Leslie's favor that he mutinied in the 
cause of another. Having all of the ob- 
stinacy of his dullness, he went straighter to 
his end, because it was allied with that nar- 
row bulldog vision which excludes all but one 
object from the field of sight. Meeting 
Rhodes, Chapman and Newton, with lanterns, 
at the point where the sleigh had capsized, 
he rushed the former and was living in the 
strict letter of his intention when the others 
pulled him away. They could not, however, 
dam his indignant speech. On that vast dark 
stage, with the lanterns shedding a golden 
aureole about Rhodes and his bleeding 
mouth, he gave them the undiluted truth as 
it is said to flow from the mouths of babes 
and sucklings. 

Arrived home, moreover, he staggered his 
wife by his stubborn opposition. "It is no 
use talking, Elinor," he said, closing a bitter 
argument. "Tomorrow I go to the bush for 
a load of wood, and if that cad is here when 
I return, I'll break a whip on his back." 
Then, ignoring her bitten lips, clenched 
hands, the bitter fury that was to produce 
such woeful consequences, he went oft to bed. 

Of all this, however, Helen remained in 
ignorance until after the denouement that 
came a few days later along with a scatter- 
ing of new snow. Those were days of misery 
for her — of remorseful brooding, self-re- 
proach, hot shame that set her at bitter in- 
trospection that she might find and root out 
the germs of wickedness that had brought 
these successive insults. As hundreds of 
good girls before her, as thousands will after 
her, she wondered if she were really the 
possessor of some unsuspected sensuousness. 
Comparisons, too, were forced upon her. 
Revolting from the rough settler life, she had 
turned to the English set, only to find that 
their polished ease was but the veneer of 
their degeneracy, analagous to the phos- 
phorescence given off in the dark by a 
poisoned fish and equally indicative of decay. 
She could not fail to contrast her husband's 
sterling worth with their moral and intellec- 
tual leprosy. 

The nights were still more trying. She 
would sit, evenings, and stare at the lamp as 
though it were the veritable flame of life, 



while her spirit quested after the Cause of 
things and the root of many enigmas. Why, 
for instance, is it that pitilessness, ferocity, 
ruth, which were Good in the youth of the 
World, should cause such Evil in its old age? 
For what reason the Cause of the Lily willed 
also its blight? Why conditions make fish 
of one woman, flesh of another, and fowl of 
a third, and wherefore any one of them 
should be damned for doing what she 
could n't help in following the dictates of her 
nature? In fact, from the duration of her 
reveries she may have entertained all of the 
hundred and odd questions with which the 
Atom pelts the Infinite, and judging from 
her dissatisfaction, she received the usual an- 
swer — Why? It is Nature's wont to deliver 
her lessons in parables — from which each 
must extract his or her own meanings — and a 
momentous page was turned in Helen's les- 
son the day that she rode over to Leslie's 
to verify a rumor which Nels had brought 
from the postoffice. 

As sleighing was practically over and 
wheeling not yet begun, she went horseback. 
As aforesaid, a scattering of new snow cov- 
ered the prairies and she rode through a bit- 
ter prospect. Everywhere yellow grass tus- 
socks or tall brown weeds thrust through the 
scant whiteness to wave in the chill wind. Un- 
der the sky's enormous gray, scrub and bluff 
and blackened drifts stood out, harsh studies 
in black and white. Nature was in the blues 
and all sentient things shared her dull humor. 
Winging north in V or harrow formations, 
the wild ducks quacked their discontent. 
Peevish snipe cursed the weather as they 
dipped from slough to slough. A lone coyote 
complained that the season transcended his 
experience, then broke off his plaint to chase 
a rabbit — of whose red death Helen was 
shuddering witness. 

The settlement was even less cheerful ; such 
houses as she passed rose like dirty smudges 
from the frozen mud of their dooryards. 
Moreover, the looks of the few settlers she 
met were not conducive of better spirits. 
McCloud, a bigoted Presbyterian of the old 
Scotch-Canadian school, gave her a malig- 
nant grin in return for her nod. Three 
Shinn boys, big louts, burst into, a 
loud guffaw as their wagon rattled by 
her at the forks of Leslie's trail. Their 
comment : "Guess she hain't heard !" increased 
her apprehension. 



THK SKTTLER. 



61 



She could now see the house, smokeless, 
apparently lifeless, downing down from a 
snow-clad ridge. But when, a minute later, 
she knocked, Leslie answered, and she en- 
tered. The living room with its associations 
of gaiety was dank, cold, cheerless. Ash 
littered the tireless stove; the floor was un- 
swept ; the air gave back her breath in a 
steamy cloud. Through the bedroom door 
she saw drawers and boxes wide open, their 
contents tossed and tumbled as though some- 
one had rummaged them for valuable con- 
And amid these ruins of a home 
a sat, head bowed in his hands, 
i poor man!" she cried. "You poor 
mat. 

He turned up his face and its sick misery 
reminded her of a worm raising its mangled 
head from under a passing wheel, as though 
tig a reason for its sudden taking off. 
Hi-; words strengthened the impression. "I 
could n't seem to satisfy her, and she was 
because I took your part against bim. 
Of course she isn't so much to blame. I 
did as well as I could, but I'm neither clever 
nor ornamental — like Rhodes. But I tried 
to treat her well, didn't It You shall 
judge." 

i did — of course you did, poor man!" 
she sobbed. 

"Then why did she leave met" 

Somehow his blind questioning raised the 
prairie tragedy in her mind. The rabbit's 
death scream was equally sincere in its pro- 
test against inscrutable fate in the coyote's 
green eyes. Its innocence was blameless as 
this, yet — how could she answer problems as 
unsolvable as her ownT 

"I have been a fool," he went on, and his 
next words helped to lessen the astonish- 
ment, though not the pain, which his calam- 
ity had brought her. "A blind fool | When 
we used to drive out to Regis last Summer 
it was going on — I can see it now. They 
did their billing and cooing under my ven- 
eres. Yet they were not so clever after all. 
were theyT I trusted her — with my honor, 
expecting her to protect it as I would have 
defended her virtue. Was I at fault t If a 
man can't trust his wife, what can he dot 
Surely not lock her up. What could I dot" 

Puzzled, she stood and looked down upon 
him. But under its delicate complexities the 
feminine mind is ever practical, and her at- 
tention quickly turned to his physical wel- 



fare. He must be taken away! Weaned 
from his sick brooding, blind questioning' 
"Have you eaten today t" she asked, 
for three days I Qo out and harness your 
ponies at once and come home with me to 
supper." Anticipating objection, she added. 
"Really, you must, for I am too tired to 
ride back again." 

Her little fiction was hardly necessary; 
he found it so easy to let her do his think- 
ing. He obeyed as one in a trance, and not 
till they drove away, leading her pony be- 
hind, did action dissipate his lethargy. Then 
he began to display some animation. 

It was a silent and uncomfortable drive. 
Instead of the usual lively jingle, pole and 
harness rattled dully; the light snow hushed 
the merry song of the wheels to a slushy 
dirge. The raw air, bleak sky, slaty gray* 
of the dull prospect were eminently oppres- 
sive. Nature had shed her illusions and. 
fronting her cold materialism, there was no 
dodging issues. Pacts thrust themselves too 
rudely upon consciousness. Leslie spoke but 
once, and the remark proved that the chill 
realities had set him again at life's riddle. 

"I shall sell out," he said, as the ponies 
swung in on Carter's trail. "Go to South 
Africa. My brother is a mining superin- 
tendent on the Rand." 

She sighed. "I ean 't go to South 
Africa." 

He roused from bis own trouble with 
ready sympathy. "You dont need to. 
You '11 see. Carter will come home one of 
these days." And during the short time that 
he abode with her, he extended the same 
brotherly sympathy, forgetting his trouble 
in hers. She was sincerely sorry when — 
having placed Danvers in charge of the sale 
of his farm and effects — he followed his 
faithless wife out of her life and this book. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

The Persistence of the Established. 

iVE for a few dirty drifts 
in the shadow of the bluffs, 
snow was all gone when, one 
morning a week or so after 
Leslie's departure, Helen 
went south under convoy of 
Jimmy Olaves to open school. The day was 
beautiful. Once more the prairies wore 
the burned browns of Autumn, but to eyes 




62 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



that had grown to the vast snowscape dur- 
ing a half-year of Winter, the huge mon- 
ochrome rioted in color. In fact it had its 
values. There a passing cloud threw a patch 
of black. Bowing to the soft breeze, last 
year's grass sent sunlit waves chasing each 
other down to the far horizon. Here and 
there a green stain on the edge of cropped 
hay sloughs bespoke the miracle of resur- 
rection, eternal wonder of Spring, the young 
life bubbling forth from the decay and 
death of parent plants. Also the prospect 
was chequered with the rich black of plowed 
fields. On these slow ox teams crawled, and 
the shouts of the drivers, snapping crack 
of long whips, alternated as they drove 
along with the cheep of running gophers, 
the "pee wee" of snipe, song of small birds. 
Noise was luxury after six months' frozen 
silence. The warm damp air, the feel of 
balmy Spring, sunlight on the grasses, were 
delightfully relaxing. Helen gave herself 
up to it; permitted sensation to rule and 
banish for the moment her tire and trouble. 
She chatted quite happily with the trustee 
who, however, seemed gloomy and pre- 
occupied. 

A philosopher coined a phrase, the per- 
sistence of the established, to explain the 
survival of phenomena after their original 
cause lies dead in the past. It admirably 
defines the trustee's mental condition, which 
was a product of causes set up by Helen 
these last months. Ignorant of the change 
in her feeling toward her English friends, 
he was vividly aware of the prejudice which 
her dealings with them had aroused in the 
settlers. In the beginning he and Flynn 
had earned severe criticism by giving her 
the school. Since the Leslie scandal, he 
doubted their ability to keep her in it. At 
meeting, "bees", on trail, her name was be- 
ing coupled with grins or gloomy reproba- 
tion according to the years and character 
of the critics. The women had plucked her 
character clean as a chicken, and were scat- 
tering their findings to the four winds. Just 
now, of course, the heavy work of seeding 
sadly interfered with these activities and di- 
versions, but Jimmy looked for trouble in 
the slack season. If, in the meantime, she 
could be weaned from her liking for the 
English Ishmael, they might be able to 
weather the prejudice. To which end he 
steered the conversation to the greenness, 



credulity and execrable agriculture of the 
remittance people. 

"I kain't see," he said, among other 
things, "what a fine gal Ike you kin see in 
'em. They 're dying stock, an' one o' these 
days the Fool-Killer will come along an' 
brain the hull biling. Brain, did I say? 
The Lord forgive me ! Ked n't scratch up 
the makings of one outen the hull bunch." 

Had she known his mind, she might easily 
have laid his misgivings. Instead she tried 
to modify his bitter opinion. "They are cer- 
tainly inefficient as farmers. But as re- 
gards their credulity, dont you think it is 
largely due to a higher standard of business 
honor? Now when a Canadian trades horses 
he expects to be cheated, while they are 
only looking for a fair exchange." 

Jimmy's face wrinkled in contemptuous 
disparagement. "Hain't that jes' what I 
said? A man that expects to get his own 
outen a hoss trade kain't be killed too quick. 
It's tempting Providence to leave him loose; 
as well expect a nigger to leave a fat 
rooster as a Canadian to keep his hands off 
sech easy meat. 'T aint human natur'. As 
for their honor," he sniffed, "pity it did n't 
extend to their morals." 

"It is indeed." 

Afterward they had many a tilt on this 
same subject. Smoking in his doorway of 
evenings, Jimmy would emit sarcasms from 
the midst of furious clouds, while she, as 
much for fun as from natural feminine per- 
versity, took the opposite side. And neither 
knew the other's mind — until too late. But, 
placated by her low answer, he now let the 
subject rest. 

Three feet of green water was slipping 
over the river ice when they forded Silver 
Creek, and they had to dodge odd logs, van- 
guard of Carter's drive. "Another week," 
the trustee remarked, "an' we could n't have 
crossed." 

He was right. That week a warm rain ran 
the last of the snows off several thousand 
square miles of watershed, feeding the stream 
till it waxed fat and kicked like the scrip- 
tural ox against the load Carter had saddled 
upon it. Snarling viciously, it would whirl 
a timber across a bend, then rush on with 
mad roar, leaving a mile of logs backed up 
behind. But such triumph never endured. 
With axes, peavies, canthooks, Bender and 
his men broke the jams; whereupon, as 



THK SETTLER. 



63 



though peevish at its failure, the river swept 
out over the level bottoms and stranded um- 
bers in backwater or in dense scrub. 

To see this, the first log drive n Silver 
Creek, the children who lived near the val- 
ley, scuttled every day from school, and they 
would gaze, wide-eyed, at Michigan Red rid- 
ing a log that spun like a i>p under In* 
nimble feet; or watch the Cougar, shoulder 
deep in snow water, shoving logs at some 
ticklish point. Then they would hang about 
the cook's tent while that functionary jug- 
gled with beans and bacon or made lumber- 
man'* cake by the cubic yard. Also there 
peeps into the sleeping tents where 
men lay and snored in boots and wet red 
shirts just as they had come out of the 
river. Of all of which they would prattle 
to Helen next day at school, reciting many 
tales, chief among them the Homeric narra- 
tive of the cutting of a jam — in which she 
had a special interest and which proved, 
among other things, that Michigan Red was 
again at his old tricks. 

It was Susie Flynn who brought this tale. 
Dipping down, one end of a bridge timber 
had stuck at an acute angle into the river 
bed. A second timber swung broadside on 
against its end; then, in a trice, the tap 
had backed up, grinding bark to a pulp mi 
der their enormous pressure. "Mr. Bender." 
Susie said, "he was for throwing a rope 
across from bank to bank so 's th' y ked cut 
it from above. Dut one was n'i handy, an' 
while they was waiting a big red man comes 
up an' hands Mr. Carter the dare. 

" 'If you 're scairt, gimme the axe an' I 'II 
show yon how we trim a jam in Michigan.' 

"But Mr. Carter wouldn't give it. 

" 'N'o,' he says, awful quiet yet sorter 
tunny, for all the men laughed. 'No, they 'II 
need you to show 'em again.' Then he walks 
out on the jam an' goes to chopping, with 
Mr. Render railing for him to come back 
an' not make a dam fool of himself." 

The scene had so impressed the child that 
she reproduced every del ail for her pale 
audience of one — Carter astride of the key 
ins men, timing their breath with the 
"huh" - i his stroke; Bender's distress; the 
cynical grin of Michigan Red. Once, she 
said, a floating chip deflected the axe and 
be swore, easily, naturally, turning a smile 
of annoyance up to the bank. It drew no re- 
sponse from eyes that were glued to the log. 



now quiverim; under tons of pressure. \ 
huge baulk, it broke with a thunderous re- 
port when cut a quarter through and loosed 
a mile of grinding death upon the chopper. 

Then came his progress through the 
welter. As the jam bore down stream, tim- 
bers would dip, somersault, and thrash down 
on a log that still quivered under the spurn 
of his leap. Young trees raised an end and 
swept like battering rams along the log he 
rode. Yet, jumping from log to log, he 
came up from Death out of the turmoil in 
safety to the bank. 

•'I'.idii'jlit his axe erlong, too!" Susie tri- 
umphantly finished. "An' you should have 
jes' seen that red man — he looked that sick 
an' '.rreen through his wishy-washy smiling. 
But Mr. Carter, aint he a brave onet You 
must be awful proud of him, aint you, Miss 
Helen T" 

What could she answer but "yes", though 
the trembling adm ssion covered only a small 
portion of her psychology. Misery, fear, re- 
gret, made up the rest. The remainder of 
that day dragged wearily by to a distant 
drone of lessons. She, who had tried to 
eject her husband from her life, shuddered 
as she thought how nearly her wish had 
come to accomplishment. Death's cold breath 
chilled resentment; expunged the memory of 
her months of weary waiting. It would re- 
turn, but in the meantime she could think of 
nothing but his danger. Hurrying home, she 
asked Olaves to saddle her a horse, saying 
she wanted to gallop away from a headache. 

Heartache would have been more correct, 
but she certainly galloped ; rode westward, 
then swung around north on a wide circle 
that brought her, at dusk of the short Spring 
day. out on a bald headland that si 
down to the river. Beneath her lay the camp 
with its cooking fires flickering like wind- 
blown roses athwart the velvet pall of dusk; 
and in either direction from that effulgent 
bouquet, a crimson garland of sentinel fires 
laiil its miles of length along the valley. 

M.r: moved about the nearer fires, appear- 
inir to her distant eyes as dim dark shapes. 
But what sight refused hearing supplied. 
She heard the cook, cursing his kettles with 
a volubility that would have brought shame 
on the witches in Macbeth; the imprecations 
of some lumberjack at war with a threatened 
jam. Above all rose the voice of a violin, 
quivering its infinite travail, expressing the 



64 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



throbbing pain of the world; then, from far 
up the valley, a lonely tenor floated down 
the night. 

He went to cut a key-log an' the jam he 

went below, 
He was the d — est man that ever I did know. 

Some lumberman was relieving his watch 
by chanting the deeds of a hero of the 
camps; and as, like a dove of night, the 
voice floated high over the river's growl 
through a score of verses, it helped to drive 
home upon Helen a sense of the imminent 
jeopardy Carter had passed through that 
day. While her horse pawed its impatience, 
she sat for an hour trying to pick his voice 
from the hum of the camp. It was easy to 
distinguish Bender's. His bass growl formed 
the substratum of sound. She caught, once, 
the Cougar's strident tones. Then just as 
she was beginning to despair, a command, 
stern and clear, rose from the void. 

"Lay on there with that peavey! Quick, 
or you '11 have 'em piled to heaven ! Here — ■ 
Bender, Cougar, lend a hand ; this fellow 's 
letting them jam on him !" 

She started, as under a lash. All that 
day she had lived in a whirl of feeling, and 
just as a resolvent precipitates a chemical 
mixture, the stern voice reduced her feeling 
to thought. Unfortunately the tone was not 
in harmony with her soft misery. If it had 
been — well, it was not. Rather it recalled 
his contempt under the moonlight; her own 
solitary shame. Whirling her bronco, she 
cut him over the flank and galloped at immi- 
nent risk of her neck over the dark prairies 
in vain attempt to escape the galling recur- 
rence of injured pride, the stings of dis- 
appointment. 

"He does n't care for me ! He does n't 
care for me!" It rang in her brain. Then 
when she was able to think, she added, in 
obedience to the sex instinct which will not 
admit Love's mortality, "He never did — 
otherwise he could n't have left me !" Her 
conclusion, delivered that night into a wet 
pillow, revealed the secret hope at the root 
of her disappointment. "I wont ride that 
way again." 

But she did, and her changed purpose is 
best explained by a conversation between 
Carter and Bender as they stood, drying 
themselves at the cook's fire, after averting 
the threatened jam. 



Carter began : "I reckon you can get along 
well enough without me. Of course, I'd 
have liked to seen the drive down to the 
Assinaboine, but in another week the frost 
will be out enough to start prairie grading. 
I'll have to go. Let me see. * * * One 
week more on the Creek, two on the Assina- 
boine — three weeks will put the last timber 
into Brandon. In less than a month you '11 
join me at the Prairie Portage." 

Turning to bring another area of soaked 
clothing next to the fire, his face came under 
strong light. Those seven months of thought 
and calculation had left their mark upon it; 
thinned and refined its lines, tooled the fea- 
tures into an almost intellectual cast. His 
mouth, perhaps, evidenced the greatest 
change; showed less humor, because, per- 
haps, self-repression and the habit of com- 
mand had drawn the lips in tighter lines. 
Deeper set, his eyes seemed darker, while a 
straight look into their depths revealed an 
underlying sadness. Sternness and sadness, 
indeed, governed the face without, however, 
banishing a certain grave courtesy that 
found expression in pleasant thanks when, 
presently, the cook brought them a steam- 
ing jug of coffee. Lastly, determination 
stamped it so positively that only its lively 
intelligence saved it from obstinacy. One 
glance explained Bender's answer to Jenny : 
"He's stiffer'n all h— 1"; his attitude to 
Helen. In him will dominated the emotions. 
Summed, the face with its power, dogged 
resolution, imperturbable confidence, mir- 
rored his past struggles, gave earnest for 
his future battles. 

A hint of these last inhered in a remark 
that Bender slid in between two guJps of 
coffee. "They 're saying as the C. P. will 
never let you cross their tracks." 

Carter smiled. "Yes, who 's saying it 1" 

"Oh, everybody, an' the Winnipeg paper 
said yesterday as Old Brass-Bowels"— -he 
gave the traffic manager his sobriquet — "will 
enjoin you an' carry the case through the 
Dominion courts to the British Privy Coun- 
cil. The newspaper sharp allowed that 
would take about two years, during which 
the monopoly would either buy out or bust 
your crowd by building a competing line." 

This time Carter laughed, heartily, the 
confident laugh of one sure of himself. "So 
that 's what the paper said. Well, well, 
well ! that scribe person must be something 



THE SETTLER. 



65 



of a psychic. What's thatT Oh, a fellow 
who tells you a whole lot of things he Stoat 
know himself. Now listen" — in view of 
what occurred six months Inter, his words 
are worth remembering — "courts or no 
courts, Privy Council to the contrary, we'll 
run trains across Brass-Bowel's tracks be- 
fore next freeze-up." 

•Hope you do," Bender grinned. "Bnt 
the old man aint so very slow." 

They talked more of construction, tools, 
supply, sng neering difficulties, the hundred 
problems inherent in railroad building. Mid- 
night still found them by the fire that 
twinkled, a lone red star under the enormous 
vault of night. But though interesting and 
important in that the success of the enter- 
prise involved the economic freedom of a 
province, the conversation — with one excep- 
tion — is not germane to this story which 
goes on from the moment that, two days 
later, a Pengelly boy carried the news of 
Carter's departure to Helen at school. 

The exception was delivered by the mouth 
of Bender as he rose, stretching with a 
mighty yawn to go to his tent. "Of course 
it 's none of my damn business, but do you 
allow to call at the school as you go down 
tomorrow t" 

Carter's brows drew into swift lines, but 
resentment faded before the big fellow's con- 
cern. "I did n't reckon to," he said, irently. 
vet added the hint, " — since you 're so press- 
.„,'." 

Bnt Bender would not down. "Oh, shore T" 
he pleaded. "Shore! Shore t" 

Carter looked his impatience, yet yielded 
another point to the other's distress. "If 
Mrs. Carter wished to see me. I allow 
she 'd send." 

"Then she never will! She never will!" 
Bender cried, hitting the crux of their prob- 
lem. "For she is jes' as proud as you are." 

With that he plunged into the environing 
darkness, leaving Carter still at the fire. 
From its glow his face presently raised to 
the valley's rim, dim and ghostly under a 
new moon, ridged with shadowy trees. It 
was only six miles to Glaves' place, a hop, 
skip and jump in that country of distances. 
For some minutes he stood like a stag on 
i.'are. then with a slow shake of the head he 
followed Bender. 

"An' he aint coming back till Winter," 



the small boy informed Helen, "he '11 be that 
busy with his railroadii- 

After two days of embittered brooding, 
Helen had come to consider herself as being 
in the selfsame mood that ruled her the Jan- 
nary morning when Mrs. I.olie broke in on 
her months of loneliness. But this startling 
news explained certain contradictions in her 
l»sychology, for instance, her startings and 
tlushings whenever her north window had 
shown a moving dot on the valley tntil 
these last two days. Moreover her pallor 
was hardly consistent with the assertion 
thrice repeated within the hour- — that Bret) 
if he did come she would never, NEVER. 
\l\F.R forgive him NOW ! Not that she 
conceded said contradictions. On the con- 
trary, she put up a gorgeous bluff with her- 
self; affected indifference; and — borrowed 
•limmy's pony that evening and rode down 
to the ford. 

Bender had built a rough bridge to serve 
traffic till the drive should clear the ford. 
Reining in at the nearer end, Helen looked 
down on the pool, the famous pool where n 
her betrothal had received baptism by 
immersion — at least she looked on the place 
where the pool had been, for shallows and 
sandbar were merged in one swirl of yellow 
water. But the clay bank with its bordering 
willows was still there and shone ruddily 
under the westering sun just as on that 
memorable evening. Here on the straight 
reach the logs floated under care of an 
occasional patrol. A rough fellow in blue 
jeans and red jerkin gave her a curious stare 
as he passed, whereafter there was no wit- 
ness to her wet eyes, her rain of tears, con- 
vulsive sobbing, the break-up of her as- 
sumed indifference — that is, none but her 
pony. Reaching curiously around, the beast 
investigated the grief huddled upon his neck 
with soft muzzle, rubbing and sniffinir 
."cheer up," and she had just straightened 
to return his mute sympathy, when a voice 
broke in on the bitter and sweet of her 
reverie. 

"Well met, lady fair!" 

Turning, startled, she came face to face 
with Molyneux. The heavy mud of the 
bottoms bad silenced his wheels, and now 
be sat, smiling at the sudden fires that dried 
up and hid her tears. "Not there yet," he 
answered her question as to his return home 
"Do you imagine I could go by without call- 



66 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



ing? The school was closed, but a kid — a 
Flynn by his upper lip — told me that you 
had ridden this way, and as it was Friday 
evening, I judged you were going north to 
Leslie's and so drove like Jehu on the trail 
of Ahab. Better turn your horse loose and 
get in with me. He '11 go home all right. 
Why not?" 

Again she shook her head. "Did n't Mr. 
Danvers write you" — remembering that a 
letter would have crossed him on the At- 
lantic, she stopped. 

"What's the matter? No one dead? 
Worse?" He laughed in her serious face 
when she had told. "Oh, well — that 's not 
so bad. After all, Leslie was an awful 
chump. If a man is n't strong enough to 
hold a woman's love he should n't expect 
to keep her." 

He was yet, of course, in ignorance of all 
that had transpired in his absence — the 
house party and the complete revulsion it 
had wrought in Helen's feeling. He knew 
nothing of her shame, vivid remorse, passion 
of thankfulness for her escape. To him she 
was still the women, desperate in her 
loneliness, who had challenged his love a 
short two months ago. Withal, what pos- 
sessed him to afford that glimpse of his old 
nature? It coupled him instantly in her 
mind with her late unpleasant experience. 

Not understanding her silence, he ran 
gaily on. "I can now testify to the truth of 
the saying, 'Absence makes the heart grow 
fonder.' How is it with you? Have I lost 
or gained?" 

Laughing nervously, she answered, 
"Neither, we are still the same good friends." 

He shook his head, frown : ng. "Not 
enough. I want love — must, will have it." 

Any lingering misapprehension of the 
state of her feelings which she may have en- 
tertained now instantly vanished. How she 
regretted the weakness which entitled him to 
speak thus! She knew now. Never under 
any conditions could she have married him, 
but warned by dearly boughten experience 
she dared not so inform him. Frightened, 
she fenced and parried, calling to her aid 
those shifts for men's fooling that centuries 
of helplessness have bred in woman's bone. 

"Well, well!" she laughed. "I thought 
you more gallant. I on horseback, you in a 
buggy. Love at such long distance. I 
would n't have believed it of you." 



It was a bad lead, drawing him on instead 
of away. "That is easily remedied. Get in 
with me — or I'll tie up to that poplar." 

She checked his eagerness with a quick 
invention. "No, no ! I was only joking. No 
I say ! there 's a man, a river driver, just be- 
hind that bluff." How she wished there 
were ! Praying that someone might come 
and so afford her safe escape, she switched 
the conversation to his journey and when 
that subject wore out, enthused over the sun- 
set. How beautiful was the sky ! the shad- 
ows that fell like a pall over the bottoms ! 
the lights slow crawling up the headlands. 

Preferring her delicate coloring to the 
blushes of the west, he feasted his eyes on 
her profile, delicately outlined against a 
golden cloud, until she turned. Then he 
brought her back to the point. "Well — 
have you forgotten?" 

"What?" She knew too well, but the ques- 
tion killed a moment. 

"The answer you promised me." 

She would dearly have loved to give it; to 
cry aloud, "I love ! I love ! I love — him, not 
you ! Ay, she would have flaunted it in all 
the proud cruelty of love — had she dared. 
Instead, she answered. "You forget. I am 
a married woman." 

"No, I dont," he urged. "That is eas : ly 
settled. Three months' residence across the 
line in Dakota and you are free of him — " 

" — but not of myself." 

"What do you mean?" 

Alarmed by the sudden venous blood that 
suffused his face and neck, the reddish glow 
of his eye, she forged hasty excuses. "You 
see I never thought of it — in that way. I 
must have time to get used to the idea. Wont 
you give me a week?" Her winning smile 
conquered. He had stepped his ponies along- 
side, and, snatching her hand, he covered it 
with kisses. 

"By G — ! Helen, you must say yes. I'm 
mad — mad with love of you. If you re- 
fuse — " 

"Hush !" She snatched away her hand as 
a man came in sight from behind a bluff, 
coming up stream. "It is Mr. Bender!" she 
explained — so thankfully. Then mindful of 
her part, she added, with pretended disgust, 
"What a nuisance! I wonder if he — saw 
you?" 

"Oh, he '11 go by." 

"No, no," she said with affected gaiety. 



THE SETTLER. 



67 



"Leave me the shreds of my character. Now 
you must go. Must, I said, sir." 

• \ .tv well, hut remember — one week." 
No.ldiiiir significantly, he drove, leaving her 
to meet the foreman with a mixture of re- 
lief and apprehension. She wondered if he 
had seen Molyneux shower kisses upon her 
hand. 

Though, in a few minutes of shy conver- 
sation, Bender showed no knowledge of the 
cause that had set her to rubbing the back 
of her hand against her skirt, it nevertheless 
funned the subject of a rough scrawl that 
Baldy, the tote trail teamster, delivered to 
Jenny in I^one Tree two days later. "You 
said I was to tell if 1 saw or heard any- 
thing more. Well he is back and — followed 
the kisses and the scrawl ended — if you kin 
do anything like you thought you ked, do it 
quick else I shall have to tell the boss and 
give him a chance to look after his own." 

Jenny did "do it quick" and thereby in- 
itiated a sequence of cause and event that 
was to entirely change the complexion of a 
dozen lives. An extract from her letter to 
Helen explains itself: 'Twos on the tip of 
my tongue to tell it to you every time he 
druv you home last Winter, but 't was so 
mii'h easier for me to have you all believing 
as it was the man that went back to Eng- 
land, but 't was n't, Miss Helen, 't was him — 
Capen Molyneux — 

Poor Jenny! She alone knew the magni- 
tude of the man's offense against her weak 
innocence, but, small stoic, she had hugged 
the knowledge to her soul while waiting in 
dull patience for the punishment she never 
doubted. Immunity would have challenged 
the existence of the Qod in whom, despite 
small heresies of speech, she devoutly be- 
lieved. She read his sentence in that moat 
tremendous curse of the oppressor, the One 
Hundredth and Ninth Psalm, the bitter cry 
of David: "For he hath rewarded me evil 
• * * hatred for my love. When he 
shall be judged, let him be condemned; and 
his prayer become sin. • • • Lej hjg 
children be continually vagabonds, seek their 
bread in desolate places. Let the extortioner 
catch all that he hath ; the stranger despoil 
his labor. Let there be none to extend mercy 
to him ; * * * Let his posterity be cut 
off and his generation blotted out • • • 
that he may cut off the memory of them from 
the earth." Ay, she had believed that it 




would come to pass in some way — by light- 
ning flash, sudden sickness, a weary death. 
But she had never imagined herself as the 
instrument which this letter was to make 
her. What the confession cost her! Tears, 
shameful agonizings. Small wonder that, in 
her trembling' confusion, she mishuffled notes 
■ad >li<l Helen's into Bender's envelope. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

The Wages of Sin Is — 

fN the afternoon following 
Baldy's delivery of the shuf- 
fled notes, the May sun dif- 
fused a tempered warmth 
upon Molyneux's veranda, 
thereby intensifying certain 
eomfortable reflections which accompanied 
his after-dinner pipe. He had material cause 
of satisfaction. To begin, his father's death 
placed him in possession of a sum which — 
a mere pittance in England — loomed large as 
a fortune in the thrifty settlements. Next, 
Messrs. Coxhead and Boxhead, exploiters of 
the Younger Son and his London solicitors, 
had forwarded through that morning's mail 
indentures of apprenticeship to colonial 
farming of three more innocents at one thou- 
sand dollars a head per annum. This more 
than made up for the defection of Danvers 
who, having learned how little there was to 
be learned in the business, was adventuring 
farming for himself; and permitted the 
retention of the bucolic Englishman and 
wife who, respectively, managed his farm 
and house. 

With their services assured, the life was 
more than tolerable, infinitely superior to 
that which he would have led at home. There 
he would have been condemned to the celi- 
bate lot of the Younger Son — to be a "filler" 
at dinners and dances, useful as the waiters, 
ineligible and innocuous to the plainest of 
his girl partners as an Eastern eunich; or, 
accepting the alternative, trade, vulgar trade, 
his pampered wits would have come into 
competition with abilities that had been 
whetted to a fine edge through centuries on 
Time's hard stone. Like a leaden plummet 
he would have plunged through the social 
strata to his natural place in the scheme of 
things. Here, however, he was of some im- 
portance, a magnate on means that would 
hardly have kept up his clothes and clubs at 



68 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



home. A landed proprietor, moreover, he 
escaped the stigma of trade and the resultant 
prejudice should he ever return to England. 

Then the life glowed with the colors of 
romance. His farm occurred on the extreme 
western edge of that vast forest which black- 
ens the Atlantic seaboard, and so marches 
west and north over a thousand rugged miles 
to the limit of trees on the verge of the 
barren lands. Within gunshot the old 
ferocious struggle for life continued as of 
yore. Through timbered glades the wolf 
pursued and made his kill; echo answered 
the clash of horns as big elk fought for a 
doe; over lonely woodland lakes, black with 
waterfowl, the hoo-haugh crane spread ten 
feet of snowy pinion ; across dark waters 
the loon's weird lament replied to the owl's 
midnight questioning. In Winter the moose 
came down from their yards to feed at his 
prairie haystacks; any night he could come 
out on the veranda and thrill to a long howl 
or the scream of a lynx. 

Opening before him now, the view was 
pleasantly beautiful. His house, a comfort- 
able frame building, and big barn and cor- 
rals, all sat within the embrace of a half- 
moon that prairie fires had bitten out from 
the heart of a poplar bluff. Southward his 
tilled fields ran like strips of brown carpet 
over the green earth rolls. Beyond them 
spread the park lands with his cattle feeding 
knee-deep in the rank pasture between 
clump poplar. Further still, his horses 
scented the wind from the crest of a knoll, 
forming a dull blotch against the soft blue 
sky. These were growing into money while 
he smoked, and what of free grazing, free 
hay, and labor that reversed the natural or- 
der of things and. paid for the privilege of 
working, he could see himself comfortably 
wealthy in not too many seasons. He would 
still be young enough for a run through 
Maiden Lane, London's Mecca for the stage 
and demi-mondaine. However, he put that 
thought behind him as being inconsistent 
with contemplation of the last thing neces- 
sary for perfect happiness — a pretty wife. 
Through the haze of sunlit tobacco reek, he 
saw himself in possession of even that golden 
asset, and thereafter his reflections took the 
exact color of those of the rich man before 
death came in the night: "Soul, soul! thou 
hast much goods laid up in store! Eat, 
drink, take thine ease and be merry!" 



"It is really time that I settled," he mur- 
mured. "Thirty-four, my next birthday ! By 
Jove, six more years and I shall be forty." 

The thought deflected his meditation into 
channels highly becoming to a person of the 
age he was contemplating, and from virtuous 
altitudes he looked back with something of 
the reproving tolerance that kindly age ac- 
cords to youthful indiscretion. He main- 
tained the "you-were-a-sad-dog" point of 
view till a sudden thought stung his virtuous 
complacency through to the quick. "Oh, 
well" — he ousted reproach with exculpatory 
murmur- — "if the girl had only let me, I 
would have got her away from here and have 
done something handsome for her after- 
wards. But it was just as well * * * 
seeing that it passed off so quietly. I wonder 
how she managed it. Nobody seems to 
know." Then ignoring the fact that every 
seeding brings its harvest, not knowing that 
the measure of that cruel sowing was even 
then coming home to him on a fast trot, he 
smothered conviction under the trite reflec- 
tion, "A fellow must sow his wild oats." 

Still the thought had marred his reverie 
and, tapping his pipe on the chair rung, he 
rose. He intended a visit to the barn, where 
his man was dipping seed wheat in bluestone 
solution to kill the smut, . but just then a 
wagon, which had been rattling along the 
Lone Tree trail, turned into his private 
lane. 

"It is Glaves," he muttered, "and his wife. 
What can they want? Must have a mes- 
sage — from her — otherwise they would never 
come here." 

His thought did not malign the trustee, 
who had positively refused the commission 
till assured that its performance would sever 
Helen's relations with his natural foes. Yet 
he did not like it, and though Retribution 
might have presented herself in more tragic 
guise, she could not have assumed a more 
forbidding face than that which he now 
turned down to Molyneux. 

Than they two, there have been no more 
violent contrast. Beak-nosed, hollow-eyed, 
the hoar of fifty Winters environed the trus- 
tee's face which wind and weather had 
warped, seamed and wrinkled into the sem- 
blance of a scorched hide. He was true to the 
frontier type, and, beside his bronzed rug- 
gedness, the Englishman, though much the 
larger, seemed with his soft hands, smooth 



THE SETTLER. 



68 



skin, polished manner, small and effeminate. 

night be expected, the trustee refused 

Molvneux's invitation to put in and feed. 

'iie an' the wife is going up to see her 

brother north of Assippii, an' we have thirty 

■bBw to make afore sundown." 

He did, however, return curt answers to a 
few questions, though it would be a mistake 
to set his scant conversational efforts to the 
accounts of politeness. Rather they were 
the meed of malignance for, while talking. 
be secretly exulted over the thought of Molv- 
neux's coming disappointment. They would 
be gone a week, he said. The mails f Mrs. 
Carter would attend to sech letters as 
straggled in! She'd be there alonef Yes! 
Lonesome t Mebbe, but she was that well- 
plucked she 'd laughed at the idea of spend- 
ing her nights at Flynn's ! A fine girl, sirree ! 
Having accorded five minutes to Helen's per- 
fections, the trustee drove off, but turned as 
he drove out of the yard and nudged his 
wife, grinning, to look at Molyneux. 

Stark and still as one of his own veranda 
posts, the man stood and stared down at 
Jenny's pitiful letter. Across the top Helen 
had written, "This explains itself," and that 
scrap of writing represented three letters 
now tom up and consigned to the flames. 
The first antedated her receipt of Jenny's 
letter and had run: "/ want you to believe 
me innocent of coquetry, and you must par- 
don me if I have, by speech or action, seemed 
to sanction the hope you expressed the other 
I now perceive that it was my des- 
perate loneliness that caused me to lean so 
heavily upon your friendship. I might have 
told you this, personally, but for certain ex- 
periences which have made me timid." There 
was more — regret, pleasant hope that the fu- 
ture might bring with it friendly relations, 
wishes for his happiness. This letter she 
bad withdrawn front the mail to burn along 
with one that was full of reproach and a 
third that sizzled with indignation. 

Face suffused with dark venous blood, 

pux faced discovered sin. If ever, this 

was the accepted time for his attempts at 

reconstruction to bring forth fruit. He had 

pictured himself remorseful, but now that 

the wage of sin was demanded, he flinched 

i selfish child, reneged in the game he 

had played with the gods. It was not in him 

to play a losing hand to the logical end. 

Artead of remorse, anger possessed him for. 



tearing the letter, he cried in a gust of 
passion : 

"She shant throw me a second time! By 
God! shesbai; 

Needs not to follow his turbulent thought 
as be hurried out to the barn— his flushes, 
the paroxysms that set his face in the colors 
of apoplexy. Sufficient that flooding passion 
swept clean the superstructure of false 
morality, sophistical idealism that he had 
erected on the rotten foundation of his 
vicious heredity. A minute of action ex- 
plains a volume of psychology. Hitching 
his ponies, he drove madly southward, one 
idea standing clearly out in his whirl of 
thought — she would be alone that night. 

Just about the time that Molyneux swung 
out on the Lone Tree trail, Helen arrived 
home from school with the eldest Flynn 
boy, who had volunteered to help her with 
the chores; her undertaking of which had 
made possible Mrs. Glaves' rare holiday 
Under distress of their bursting udders, the 
cows had come in of their own accord from 
the fat rank pastures and called for ease- 
ment with low persistent "mooing" while she 
changed her dress. When she finally came 
out with sleeves rolled above elbows that 
had regained their plump whiteness, they 
even fought for precedence, horning each 
other aside, until the bell-cow made good her 
prerogative as leader; then frothing streams 
soon drew tinkling music from her pail. For 
his part, the boy fed pigs and calves, car- 
ried in the milk, then departed, leaving her 
to skim and strain and wash pans and pails, 
itself no light task in view of Mrs. Glaves' 
difficult standards of cleanliness. That done 
and her supper eaten, she placed a lamp on 
the table and sat down to think over the 
events of the day. 

A little fatigued, she leaned a smooth 
cheek on her hand, staring at the lamp, 
whose golden light toned while it revealed 
the changes these distressful months had 
wrought in her appearance. Her eyes were 
weary, her face tired, but if she was paler 
than of yore, the pallor was becoming in 
that it was altogether a mental product and 
accorded well with her plump, well-nourished 
body. Her month, if woefully pouted in 
agreement with her sad thought, was scarlet 
and pretty as ever; in every way she was 
L'ood a 



70 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



At first she had found it extremely dim- 
cult to realize the full meaning of the letter 
which the Cougar had brought in from camp 
early that morning. For Bender would 
trust it in no other hand; whereby he dis- 
covered not only his wisdom, but also an 
unexpected fund of tact in his rough mes- 
senger. Anticipating some display of emo- 
tion, the Cougar discharged his office in the 
privacy of Helen's own room, and if her red 
eyes afterward excited Jimmy Glaves' in- 
satiable curiosity, only the Cougar witnessed 
her breakdown — sorrowful tremblings, 
blushes, tearful anger. Not that she had 
doubted the girl's word. Only it had seemed 
monstrous, incredible, impossible until, 
through the day, jots and tittles of evidence 
had filtered out of the past. She had con- 
nected Jenny's gloomings on the occasions 
that Molyneux drove her, Helen, home, with 
his refusals to enter and warm himself after 
their cold drives. Even from the far days 
of the child's trouble, small significances had 
come to piece out the solid proof. So now 
nothing was left for her but bitter self- 
communion. 

These days it did seem as though the fates 
were bent on squeezing the last acrid drop 
into her cup; for to the consciousness of 
error was now added knowledge of the utter 
worthlessness of her temptor. She burned 
as she recalled their solitary rides; writhed 
slim fingers in a passion of thankfulness as 
she thought of her several escapes; was tax- 
ing herself for her folly, when a sudden furi- 
ous baying outside brought her, startled, to 
her feet. 

It was merely the house-dog, exchanging 
defiances with a lone coyote, but — -after she 
had satisfied herself of the fact — it yet 
brought home upon her a vivid sense of her 
lonely position. Sorry now that she had not 
gone home with the Flynn boy, she glanced 
nervously about the room which, if small, 
was yet large enough to own shadowy cor- 
ners. On top of the pigeon-holed mailing 
desk, moreover, a few books were piled in 
such a way as to cast a shadow, the sil- 
houette of a man's profile upon the wall. 



Lean, hard, indescribably cruel, its thin lips 
split in a merciless grin as she moved the 
lamp, then suddenly lengthened into a sem- 
blance of a hand and pointing finger. Then 
she . laughed, nervously, yet laughed because 
it indicated one of the hundred summons, 
writs of execution and findings in judgment 
that were pasted up on the walls. 

"By these summons," Victoria Regina 
called upon her subject, James Glaves, to 
pay the moneys and taxed costs herein set 
forth under pain of confiscation of his goods 
and chattels. Usually recording debt and 
disaster, the instruments certified, in Jimmy's 
case, to numerous victories over implement 
trusts, cordage monopolies, local or foreign 
shylocks. "Execution proof," in that his 
wife owned their real property in her own 
right, he could sit and smoke at home, the 
cynosure of the countryside, in seasons when 
the sheriff traveled with the thresher and 
took in all the grain. To each document he 
could append a story, the memory of such a 
one having caused Helen's laugh. 

Indicating this particular specimen with 
his pipe stem, one evening, he had remarked, 
"Yon jest tickled the jedge to death. 'Mr. 
Glaves,' he says, when he handed it down, 
'they 've beat you on the jedgement, now it 's 
up to you to fool 'em on the execution.' An' 
you bet I did." 

Reassured, Helen returned to her mus- 
ings — only to start up, a minute later, with 
a nervous glance over her shoulder at the 
window. Is there anything in thought 
transference? At that moment Molyneux 
was rattling down into the dark valley, and 
is it possible that his heated imaginings 
bridged the miles and impressed themselves 
upon her nervous mental surfaces? Or was 
it merely a coincidence of thought that 
caused her to see his face pressed against 
the black pane? Be this as it may, she could 
not regain her composure. Taking the lamp, 
she locked herself in her bedroom, then, as 
is the habit of frightened women, sought 
further safety under the invulnerable shield 
of the bedclothes. 

(To be Continued.) 



As Philosopher Unto Philosopher 



Hy Elisabeth Vore 




IPHIL080PHSB sat outsi.le 
of tlie door of his tent Date, 
a fig tree, writing in a book. 
His beard was white as snow 
from lands of Winter and 
many years had crowned his 
head with silver. In his deep-set eyes was 
the light of the knowledge of life. 

A woman passing that way, and being 
weary with a long journey over the burning 
sand, paused for a moment in the shade of 
the tree where the philosopher sat, and lean- 
ing upon her staff watched him as he wrote. 
And speaking, the wayfarer said : 

"Oh, man of the desert, what mightest 
thou be writing in the bookt" 

And the philosopher continued to write 
and removed not his eyes from the book in 
which he was writing, and answering the 
voice that had spoken, he said : 

"(), stranger, whosoever thou mayest be, I 
write herein the Truth regarding mankind, 
that it may be handed down from generation 
■ration unto all the world." 

A swift light of hope dawned in the wo- 
man's shadowy eyes, and speaking to the 
sage, she said : 

" IVrchance, kind seer, if it pleaseth thee, 
thou canst assist me in finding that for which 
I seek." 

And the woman's voice was sweet as the 
music of rippling water, and slowly the 
philosopher raised his eyes from the book 
and beheld a woman leaning upon her staff. 
And, answering her, the wise man said : 

"What seeketh thou, O woman, and 
whither might thy journey tendf" 

"I go forth, Sir Sage, into the world 

of people to search for a constant man, that 

when I have found him I may kneel at his 

.ive him my heart's eternal devotion." 

And the sage looking upon her saw that 
she was fair and as she took up her staff to 
depart, he stretched out his hand and laid 
hold of the staff to detain her. And address- 
ing the woman, he said: 



"O daughter fair and goodly to look upon. 
woman who comet h out of the West — listen 
to the words of wisdom. 

"Thou dost go upon a weary journey and 
a vain quest. I know the world and have 
read the heart of mankind. Seek thou in the 
byways and highways, in high places and low 
places — but thy search will be unrewarded. 
Behold, thou art weary and thy feet are 
bruised with much walking — come into my 
tent and abide with me, and I will bathe thy 
feet with water and give thee of figs to eat. 
Lo, I am not of the world — I have shaken its 
dust from my sandals. Remain with me. and 
by all the gods known to men, I swear that I 
will be constant to thee." 

And the seer was very old and his years 
weighed heavily upon him, and the woman 
wore the royal crown of youth and hope, and 
faith lived yet in her heart. And she turned 
her face wistfully toward the East, and as 
she gazed her heart grew strong. 

And answering the philosopher, the woman 
said: 

"0 man of much learning, the knowledge 
of one life will not suffice for another — to 
judge without experience were injustice and 
error." 

And the philosopher was silent and made 
no answer, but turning back in the book 
wherein he had been writing, he read from it 
a proverb : 

Wherein ignorance is bliss it were foil;/ to 
court wisdom. 

And the woman's face was saddened, and 
she spake yet once again : 

"Good sir, hearken I pray thee unto me. I 
will go forth into the world and seek both 
long and well for the sake of conscience and 
that justice may not be forgotten. That faith 
may live, and trust may not be numbered 
among things that were and are not. And 
if my search be not rewarded I will return 
to thee and dwell in thy tent forever. I swear 
this by all the gods that are reverenced." 



72 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



And the woman laid down her staff and 
lifted her bare arms to the sun. 

"I swear it by the sun-god, whose kisses 
awaken the desert to passion. I swear it by 
the wind- god who steals o'er the sand when 
the moon hangs low. I swear it by the 
night-god who beckons out of the shadows." 

And having sworn the woman lowered her 
arms and continued : 

"By all these I swear to thee that if my 
search be unrewarded I will return — and thy 
law shall be my law, and the desire of thy 
heart shall rule me." 

And harkening the philosopher smiled. 
And he answered the woman and said : 

"0 woman, go forth — I am acquainted 
with patience and here will await thy re- 
turn." And opening the book he again be- 
gan writing, and the woman took up her 
staff and departed into the East. 

And the day passed and the morrow, and 
others came and vanished — but the woman 
returned not. 

And in the East the sun came up like a 
ball of fire and traveling over the desert, like 
a ball of fire went down in the West. And 
the wind singing under the night sky covered 
the woman's footprints with the shifting 
sands. 

And again the philosopher sat outside his 
tent writing in the book. And behold, afar 
off a woman, toiling painfully across the 
scorching sands. Her staff was gone, her 
head drooped wearily, and her tender feet, 
bruised and torn by the stones, left bloody 
footprints on the sand. 

And she drew nearer and approached the 
philosopher. But the man of wisdom wrote 
on and beheld her not. And coming up to 
him the woman stood humbly before him. 
Her eyes were soft with tenderness, and her 
face held a deep yearning. And stretching 
out her hand to the sage, she spake unto him 
and said: 



"Behold, my lord, I have returned unto 
thee, for thou alone art worthy." 

Hearing her voice the philosopher started, 
and looking up he beheld the woman stand- 
ing before him, and over his face there came 
a shadow, and his glance fell as he met her 
eyes. And speaking to the woman he said : 

"Thou wert gone may days, woman, and 
thy coming was long delayed — and — -there 
came another — " 

And while he was yet speaking a woman 
came out of his tent and running up to the 
sage wound her bare' arms about his neck 
and her yellow hair fell around him like a 
garment. And addressing the wayfarer, she 
cried shrilly: 

"Beggar — or worse, begone ! Dusky wan- 
derer of the desert, what bringest thou to 
the door of my good man's tent. What 
words didst I hear from thy wanton lips? 
Begone ! lest I spit upon thee ! Thinkest 
thou my lord hath eyes for any face but 
mine? He, who hath never looked with eyes 
of love on any woman save me — and this he 
hath sworn to me daily." 

The wayfarer stood in silence, mute-lipped 
and motionless. Something went out of her 
face and left it forever. In her eyes was 
the light of knowledge. And looking not at 
the philosopher nor speaking, she stooped 
and picking up a twig, wrote in the sand, 
and the words she wrote were these : 

As philosopher unto philosopher, write this 
in thy book, that it may be handed down 
from generation to generation, unto all the 
world. As far as the east is from the west, 
as the north is from the south, as the sun is 
from the moon, as Paradise from Hades is — 
so far removed are man and constancy. 

And she drew a circle beneath it and 
placed the seal of her slender, bleeding foot 
upon it, and girding her garments around 
her, turned her face about and departed to- 
ward the sunset. 



Some Views 



of the 



Clackamas River 



From Photographs by 

O. Freytag 



Thi Pacific Monthly, July 1907. 





On the Main Clackamas. 




The Ctat >.'i « 



i7SR«3^^^9^CI£' ' 





ft: 




Near the Mouth of the South Fork, the Clackamas. 




An Idyll of the Trout Streams 

By Jules Verne Des Voignes 

Illustrated from Photographs by the Author 




P^^gfe^B K V K. N freight ears, spon- 

^fTr^^JPi^l s " r<M ' ^ a P assen f- ,er coach 
^' that may have been Noah's 

.private travel ni: outfit in 
the days after the Ark was 

[abandoned, took us to Mos- 
eow, Idaho, I bad remarked to my wife 
that in one way at least we were imper- 
sonators of that ancient gentleman and his 
helpmeet. We had the whole car to our- 
nlrw. 

Hi mow reached us at hot noon. That >. I 
think it must have eome to us at some time 
while we were unloading countless bales and 
barrels ami crates during endless waits 
■long the route. Throughout the long 
sweltering boon since leaving Spokane, I 



had endured the torture of stiff, if none too 
cleanly linen, not merely in heroic silence, 
but with cheerful philosophy about the 
country, our special iveyancc. the unhur- 
ried precision of the train crew, and the 
splendid pat' One* of our engineer — re- 
marks which my wife, who was "on" her 
last clean shirtwaist — well "on," let me 
add — declined to laugh at. 

I helped her off. and was rather sulky. I 
believe, about banging our heavy suit-cases 
after us. Yet. when I gras|>ed the out- 
stretched, welcoming hand of my brother 
and looked into the boh), optimistic tad 
health -blowing face of the mountain-lo\er I 
knew him to be. the discomforts of the past 
hours were swallowed up. 



82 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



''Hello, my martyred brother," he 
lauuhed, gathering our luggage in one hand 
as if the leaden contents were cotton candy. 
"We' '11 see that your sacrifice is rewarded. 
Once get you up in the mountains and let 
you loose upon the best water, the best air, 
and the finest trout in the world, and you 
can 't regret it nor forget it — if you live a 
thousand years !" 

We rolled up dust-piled Moscow streets 
in a choking cloud of alkali. It was toler- 
ably hard to let my imagination run ram- 
pant upon trout when the lining of my 
mouth, throat and lungs was a veritable 
soot. But an hour later, in the cool shelter 
of my brother's lawn, refreshed and re- 
clothed, with the consoling taste of a good 
cigar, I was ready to be glad I had come, 
and to listen with no small anticipation to 
the delights in store for us. 

"You like to fish and you 've never seen 
a mountain trout stream?" my brother in- 
terrogated first. In the separation of many 
years our respective tastes had been for- 
gotten. 

I acknowledged the facts. 

"Good ! I've got a trip arranged, Chris, 
that beats anything on earth. It 's a 
cracker-jack ! It 's something that '11 last a 
man a life-time !" 

His words sent a pleasant tingle through 
me. With my eyes on the snow-capped 
mountains beyond, the thought came to me 
that I in my tenderfoot days was to ex- 
perience something for which drudging 
millions of my caste would have given their 
very souls. 

My brother puffed at his cigar in hard 
thought. "I want to get started by Mon- 
day at the very latest," he said. "In short 
figures it will take us the greater part of 
four days to — " 

"To what?" I demanded. 

He looked lis surprise. "You can 't go 
three hundred miles into the mountains 
much quicker," he remarked. 

I gasped. It was incredible. This man 
talked of traveling three hundred miles on 
a fishing excursion as easily as I of a three- 
mile tramp to a "way down East" bass 
hole! 

"Then it is n't into those mounta'ns" — 
I indicated the range in the distance — 
"where we 're going .'" 

"Good Caesar, Chris!" His hearty laugh 



rang out like a boy's. "Did you imagine 
that trout streams anywhere within the 
reach of civilization were fruitful? Listen 
to me ! I'm going- to take you where you 
can get trout — do you hear me? — trout!" 

"But three hundred miles," I urged. "It 
seems — " My mind was already busy with 
hardships by the side of which Noah's pri- 
vate car paled. 

He got up and stood in front of me. I 
can see him now — the excited snap of his 
blue eyes, the emphatic jerk of his head, 
the whole attitude of unprecedented expec- 
tation expressed in voice and gesture. 

"Chris," said he, "do you realize where 
you 're going — that you 're bound miles 
above the place where fishermen have been 
of late years — ever been, perhaps; where 
there are trout, great, speckled, 'lunkerous' 
fellows just waiting" — his hands played as 
with a reel — "just waiting to snap at a fly?" 

The hot glow of his enthusiasm engulfed 
me. I stared at him as at a great and in- 
fallible prophet. 

"Three hundred miles or three thousand, 
you '11 like it," he went on. "There 's no 
particular hardship the way we're going; 
why, the ladies accompany us! Dont shy 
out at your imagination, Chris. Just wait 
until afterward, and then confess that it 
was fifty Michigan circusses rolled into 
one." 

That evening, while we were at dinner 
with a howl of luscious, red, ripe cherries, 
matured in late August, to coddle our ap- 
petites, the rain began to patter softly — 
gentle Idaho rain, and the first we had seen 
in the West. All night it fell, large of 
drop, faster and faster until, in the early 
dawn of Monday morning, the streets of 
Moscow with their two months' accumula- 
tion of dust ran rivers of mud. But. we 
were packed — trunks of provisions, qamp- 
kit, tents, fishing tackle and all — and we 
resolutely turned our hacks upon the mud 
city and took the train. 

Spokane, Washington, and late afternoon 
brought us a cloudless sky and a smiling 
sun. Our luck had begun. The rainy sea- 
son had been postponed. It was with light 
hearts that we retired to rest in that clean- 
liest city of the great Northwest; it was 
still a jollier party which the electric inter- 
urban whisked on the following morning in 
and out of the mountains and along the 



84 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




The Steamer Colfax Rounds a Bend on the Shadowy St. Joe. 



Spokane River — sometimes at the mile-a- 
minute rate — to Coeur d'Alene City at the 
foot of the long and narrow Coeur d' Alene 
lakes. At this romantic mining and lumber 
metropolis, a large side-wheeler, the Idaho, 
steamed away with us, and the morning long 
we threaded countless log-booms and made 
as if to laugh at the grim peaks which tow- 
ered above us and at the icy waters which 
sparkled treacherously beneath. 

As we sat on deck, my brother told this 
rather d squieting tale: 

"A man," said he, "came here in the 
Coeur d'Alene lake country to fish and hunt. 
He fished in a small canoe. On one oc- 
casion he was out on the water and miles — 
supposedly — from a human being. He 
caught a very large trout on a spoon-hook. 
In attempting to land the fish, the canoe 
capsized and in the man's struggles to right 
it. lie became entangled in the strong fish 
line. The big trout, in frantic endeavor to 
free itself, swam 'round and 'round him. 
He could not break the line nor swim with 
the one arm he had free. He sank, and in 
these icy waters and strong undercurrents 



no one ever rises. That was two weeks ago. 
Another man — on shore and too far dis- 
tant to help — saw the tragedy and re- 
ported it." 

My brother paused with one of his little 
outlandish "That 's why !" shakes of his 
head. "No lake fishing for me," he con- 
cluded, significantly. 

"Is the river any safer?" I demanded of 
him with a shiver. 

"Heaps !" he grunted, Indian-fashion. 
Seeing that his story had had no good effect 
upon my nerves, he began an interesting 
harangue on the little lumbering town, Har- 
rison, toward whose harbor we were making. 

It was at Harrison, wild spirt of the 
cedar woods, that we changed steamers, and 
at 1 o'clock in the afternoon, comfortably 
installed upon the Colfax, began our spec- 
tacular windings and rewindings up the 
"shadowy St. Joe," the highest navigable 
river in the world, and characterized in 
every fisherman's heart as the trail to un- 
imaginable and unsurpassable delights. 

Past Indian villages and white men's 
camps, past tiny settlements of mushroom 



AN IDVI.I. nF NIK TKOl'T STKKAMS 




On the Shadow v St. Joe. 



growth, we steamed, while the out-reaching 
willows often brushed our sturdy little ves- 
sel and vagrant lops struck muffled blows 
upon her white sides — through a drawbridge 
alive with squatting squaws and grunting 
chiefs, at whom I rattled off a mocking 
jargon in pure excess of spirits — an ex- 
uberance which was to desert me inoppor- 
tunely — and up, ever up, those peaceful 
waters, between giant peaks still smoking 
from forest fires, to St. Joe, the little town 
at the head of navigation, but at whose foot 
w;t- to begin our ex|>erienee-glutted journey. 
That night from the hotel veranda we sat 
watching the prismatic glow of Mount 
Haldy Peak bathed in Idaho sunset. The 
shadows on the St. Joe deepened. The 
mountains wrapped themselves in white 
mist veils. From a pavilion nearby light 
streamed and the sounds of music and danc- 
ni',- came to our ears, uncanny almost in the 
eternal solitudes of the mountains. There 
was a strange, undetinable acknowledgement 
of my individual inconsequence with me as 
I dropped —loop; it was with me still when 
at I o'clock the following morning the 



alarm clock opened my startled eyes upon 
violet, cloud-covered mountains, white 
mists struggling up from the river, scarlet 
and orange sunbeams beating their way into 
lurking shadows- the whole a rare, ex- 
quisite touch of untamed beauty that be- 
longed to no man and to no civilization. 

At 7 we stood, the five of us, woodsmen 
all in semblance it' not in truth, beside the 
long, narrow river boats which were to 
carry us the two-day journey to our des- 
tination. I had not known myself in the 
glass that morning. Heavy, knee-high 
leather boots, studded on heels and soles 
with tempered steel nails an inch long; that 
invaluable trouser adjunct, "khakis"; thick 
flannel shirt and hunting coat; and disrepu- 
table slouch hat bedecked with rows of flies 
had worked a mighty transformation in my 
erstwhile highly cultivated — so far as self- 
estimation goes — appearance. Our polers, 
sturdy. Herculean limbed fellows, bare- 
muscled to the elbows, stood ready, their 
long wooden poles, steel-pointed, in their 
hands. 

The sun shot up and played upon the rip- 



86 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




The Highest Draw Bridge in the World; at the Mouth of the St. Joe. 



pling waters. Very carefully the polers 
superintended the loading of our heavy 
trunks and pack-sacks into the two boats. 
The crafts listed until they were scarcely 
over water-line; their width was that of a 
man; their length seemed out of all propor- 
tion. We got in, treading cat-like. The 
ladies, my sister-in-law and wife, were 
seated on cushions in the middle of the 
largest boat with reclining backs of soft 
tent canvas. We shoved out into the river. 
Our polers stood lithely at the extreme ends 
of their boats, silent or gruffly talkative, 
yet skilled in the river's every point as only 
men who spend their lives among the moun- 
tain streams can be skilled. I basked laz- 
ily in the fresh morning's beauty. Shadow 
and sunbeam fell athwart us; water rippled 
gurglingly before our tranquil advance. 
Great snags and brush-heaps rose blackly 
above the peaceful river. Along the shore 
the St. Joe lapped musically against the 
rocks. One could drink in beauty with the 
air. It was as a tonic. We poled onward 
in an Elysium of enchantment. And then — 
We rounded a bend, and to mv ears from 



out mysterious distances came a dull, 
hoarse roar like the echo of a Niagara. I 
listened with a growing fear of the un- 
known. 

"A waterfall?" I ventured interrogatively 
of our poler. 

"A riffle," he answered, nonchalantly. 

Back in my native state, on the St. Joe 
River of my boyhood recollection, riffles 
were waters which sang and murmured over 
the stones in tuneful cadence. But this 
long, sullen roar — how was I to analyze that? 
It grew louder, more insistent as we ap- 
proached. At last the rapids burst upon 
us — a seething, eddying washboard of Na- 
ture, maelstrom of swift, convergent cur- 
rents, tumbling and hissing and hurtling at 
the giant rocks immovable in their path, 
churning up green anger in their frenzy to 
get on and on. My hands stiffened con- 
vulsively over the edges of the boat. Surely 
it was impossible to go through that raging 
inferno. No craft could live in it ! 

We shot into the whirling waters. Our 
poler's work had begun. He bent to his 
task like the untiring physical machine that 



88 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




A Quiet Spot on Marble Creek. 

he was. Cords stood out upon his neck and 
arms. He stra'ned down, down, upon the 
long pole. Again and again it clinked sharp 
and hard on the slippery stones in the river 
bed. We crept through, inch by inch. 
Jagged rocks, instruments of destruction 
should they strike our frail craft, missed by 
a hair's breadth. A counter-current skidded 
us half across stream. Water foamed by us; 
we gained, lost, triumphed, whle my 
brother, standing upright in the boat, cool, 
unimpressed, uncaring, cast again and again 
into those boiling waters and reeled in his 
line with a horrifying, inhuman com- 
placency. At last, great miracle, we slid 
into calm, smooth waters, our first riffle 
vanquished and passed. 

I wiped the streaming sweat from my 
face. Was there no way of walking to 
camp, I demanded. I was answered that 
the river sides became canons with deep 
holes at their bases. Were there no trails 
in existence? There were not. But there 
was no danger — no possible danger so long 
as one sat still, remained cool and held on ! 
The polers knew their business; such trips 
were their business. 

The horror of those next hours is with 
me yet. Later, when I myself understood 
and waded in the riffles, my fear left me; 
but then my nerves were bruised and trem- 
bling, and each succeeding rapids, stronger 
and more terrifying than the last, brought 
back my nausea and fright. Many times, 
when it became impossible to pole through 
the currents, the boatmen, wading to their 
waists, dragged the boats over by sheer 
force; and once, in a bad rush of water, 



the older of the two slipped and all but lost 
foothold, so that the long boat turned side- 
wise in the rapids and nearly swept us upon 
the rocks. The eternity of that moment 
left me weak and sick, ashamed as I was of 
my tenderfoot fear. 

I remember with unwelcome vividness 
that we poled up a string of thirty riffles 
before we camped for the night. It was 6 
o'clock and the polers were exhausted and 
hungry for a hot meal. In all we had 
made thirteen miles since morning — thirteen 
miles in ten hours ! 

I recall the camp — a group of deserted 
lumber cabins, clustered at the edge of a 
cedar forest, surrounded by the mountains, 
and washed almost at the very thresholds 
by the thundering river. I see again the 
great fire that leaped and crackled and fed 
hungrily upon the pitch logs heaped upon 
the stones. There were always the stones; 
the country swarmed with them. Our seats 
were stones as we sat and ate, like starved 
savages, with the firelight dancing redly on 
our faces. Ah ! the deliciousness of that 
meal — the snugness of our blanket-spread 
bunks afterward — the roar of the torrent 
that boomed the night long, boomed there 
in the solitudes as it has always and will al- 
ways do. You ask me if I envy those 
hearty, healthy, happy men of the moun- 
tains'? I ask you — what more has life to 
offer? And so I answer you. 

In the early, mist-filled morning we re- 
embarked. All day we poled, mountains be- 
side us, mountains behind us, mountains un- 
ending in our path — by countless springs 
that filtered pure cool water for our thirst, 
past the Corkscrew riffles and the rapids of 
the Black Prince, most dangerous in Idaho, 




Black Rock. Lake Coeur d'Alene. 



AN IDYLL OF THE TROUT STREAMS. Kit 




The Coeur d'Alrne Lake*. From Whose leu Waters and Treacherous Undercurrents No Drown- 
ing Man Ever Escapes. 



and into cuinp at the mouth of Marble 
Creek, twenty-live miles from the scantiest 
of civilization. 1 did not declare my joy to 
feel the solid earth onee more, but I knew it 
was good to chop and stake and work where 
solid ground and bedrock belied any sensa- 
tion of being swallowed by the hungry riffles 
of the St. Joe. 

That next day, by silent consent, was 
ginu over to the dedication of camp. Our 
tents were pitched on a projecting headland, 
Ugb and ipltadjd in its view. The moun- 
tains, rich with tir and cedar and pine, rose 
behind islands and great rocks; beyond these, 
green ranges, ribbed with veins of lead and 
silver. Day and night roared the riffles; to 
our left, as one faced the river, Marble 
Creek, demon of unrest, swept in frothing 
torrent to the river. That day, also, I waded 
in the riffles; learned to understand their cur- 
rents; felt myself their master, though I was 
yet to recant my boast fulness. We fished, too. 



yet lazily, cognizant of what was to come. 

"Tomorrow," said my brother, as we gath- 
ered about the cheer of that evening's camp- 
fire — stars myriad overhead and bright as 
never before — wind sighing in the cedars — 
the melancholy hoot of an owl or the eerie 
snarl of a wildcat — "tomorrow," he re- 
peated, drawing hard at his great, black 
pipe, "you'd best make the creek trip. 
You 're fresh for it now. Louis" — he men- 
tioned his son — "will take you." 

"You mean that you 're not going your- 
selff" I asked, incredulously. 

!!•■ shook his head. "I made it last year," 
he said. "It 's hard — slipperiest creek in 
the world. But go, even if you dont get up 
a mile. You '11 find the fish and he glad of 
the experience. I'll see what new spots I 
can locate on up the river." 

I was inclined to consider the whole mat- 
ter as a joke. To bring a tenderfoot, the 
greenest of Eastern tenderfoots, up into 



90 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




A Marble Creek Catch. 

the mountains and then deliberately to refuse 
to rampage the trout streams with him — it 
was inconsistent. More, it was preposterous. 
I remonstrated with him. 

"I know what I'm talking about," he in- 
sisted. "I may make the creek trip some 
time while I'm up here if I dont do as well 
up the river. You '11 understand tilings bet- 
ter when you get back tomorrow night. For 
one thing, my shoes are in no way as good 
as yours and the creek trip would be sure to 
put them out of commission for wading in 
the river. Oh, you '11 be grateful enough to 
me for urging you to go." 

I did n't think so then. Afterward — but 
that 's my story. Very little more could I 
get out of him. I fell asleep that night, 
filled with strange, conflicting emotions. If 
the creek trip, as old fishermen affirmed, was 
a "life is too short" ordeal, why had my 
brother urged me so persistently to take it? 
Of course, Louis, my nephew, was eager and 
optimistic about the venture. He was 
young, full of life and hardened by a Sum- 
mer in the mountains. But in the face of 
my brother's actions, was it safe to accept 
his assurances that it was "all right; a lit- 
tle slippery, but the best fishing ever"? 
Still, I was resolved to go, if my nerve held 
good. 

We were to start at five. Later I learned 
the necessity for our early departure. At 
four I awoke. My eyes rested first upon the 
canvas stretched above my head. It was 
black on the inside with flies, frosted and 
stupefied with the cold. I dressed shivering- 
ly, slipping on an extra pair of heavy 
woolen socks and drawing a thick sweater 
over my flannel shirt. The thought of the 



temperature of the water into which I must 
plunge at that ungodly hour was in no wise 
reassuring. 

We ate a hot breakfast at 4:20. Then 
my nephew and myself, each with fish sack 
slung over our shoulders and rod in our 
hands, struck the back trail to the creek. 
At 4:50 we waded heroically into the 
stream — clear, sparkling watei-, but icy 
cold as only mountain water can be at day- 
break. Yet the shock was not great. A mo- 
ment and our chill was passed. Nor, in 
after days, did we ever "catch cold," though 
we were in the water and wet to the skin 
the day long. 

Impulsively, we stooped down and drank 
great palmfuls of the pure liquid. It put 
new life into us. What wild energy and 
daring I seemed to possess as we struck out 
up the middle of the creek! How invincible 
I felt myself, even with that swift, danger- 
ous water pummeling and pushing at my 
knees ! 

The sun broke over sheer canon walls at 
our sides. It was no great exertion to walk, 
even on a bottom of smooth, slippery stones 
Dig as a man's two hands, and against a 
racing current. The nails in our boots 
steadied our steps. We could see every inch 
of our way. We lifted our feet with cau- 
tion; made sure of their succeeding posi- 
tions; braced them firmly between stones as 
we set them down. 

The air warmed slowly. I no longer felt 
the water's cold. My limbs glowed, pulsing 
with red blood. The day was fine, clear as 
a bell. I crossed and recrossed the stream, 
following my nephew's lead. We waded 
riffles; skirted deep holes. Still we did not 
fish. We were waiting — waiting for great 
things ! 




Hotel -St. Joe.- 



AN IDYLL OF TDK TBOUT STREAMS. 



91 



In the course of an hour we came to ■ 
bunieil log jam. h was a half-mile long by 
a quarter in width, (ireat trees, products 
of centur.'es, lay tiled at every conceivable 
angle. Some, perfect in outward form. 
irere mere shells through which the unwary 

il broke, precipitating ita unfortunate 
owner into t lie creek beneath. Over these 
my aepbew asramblod with the nimbleness 
of a equine] and skilfully swum: himself 
down from monster roots to logs heyond. I 
followed with considerably less ag lity. 

■ ltd the jam lay a deep, dark pool at 
the edge of a riffle and shadowed by ;i 
great, overhanging rock. Standing oppo- 

•. the boy cast into it. his "fly" Hilling 
gracefully just where the foaming water 
washed the rock; his line zipped out; he 
began playing a big trout. Vary skilfully 
be tired it. Then with a nimble sprint he 
brought it up on the shore stones and threw 
himself upon it, full length. The trick m 
a Western one of saving a big trout. We 
carried no landing nets. We could scarcely 
have used them. 

Almost at the instant of the trout's land- 
ing, my awkwani casting bore fruit. Some- 
thing struck with incredible speed and ac- 
curacy at my fly. My line sang. I was 
playing my first big trout. And how I 
played him ! Back and forth he thrashed, 
over and over! It was such sport as I had 
never dreamed of. My rod bent double. 
Still he held. Then, slowly, I reeled him in. 
a three-pounder, speckled, spotted, striped. 
opalescent — built as gracefully yet as pow- 
erfully as a fish may be — a prince of the 
finny tribe. 

I held him up with care, exultingly. My 
nephew was calling to me to bring him my 
knife. He had caught a monster — eighteen 
and a half inches from tip to tip. I gasped 
when I saw it. He slashed its throat with 
the knife, placed it in bis sack, fastened the 
bag eareleaaly. But bis throat-caning bail 
been poorly done. The powerful fish 
flopped out and was hack in the current be- 

ra we could turn. I knew then, for the 
time, what we bad to deal with. 

We went on. stopping hut infrequently to 
cast. Always the size of the trout grew; 
always their waryness decreased. "Bigger 
ones ahead!" would cry my enthus'astic 
nephew. And, tired by his promises, I 
struggled on. The rocks grew larger, the 



water swilter. We had to avoid stepping 
on the flat white stones in the creek bottom. 
They were like flint, but slippery as polished 
ice. Our nails would not scratch them. 
Boulders baoMM engineering propositions. 
It began to take us minutes to draw our- 
selves over them. They were nearly as 
treacherous as the bed stones. Many t mes I 
fell heavily, or saved myself only by a 
painful wrench. 

Hours afterward 1 commanded a halt. It 
was 1 o'clock by my watch. We selected a 
shelving ledge of granite and ate our 
pocket lunch while we rested. In the mid- 
dle of the most delicious sandwich. 1 believe, 
that was ever manufactured, 1 casually in- 
quired of my nephew how many miles we 
had made. 

"About three." be replied. Since, I know 




Little Fall*"— 8t. 



Jot River, Junt Below a 
Riffle. 



he was right; but then the half of my 
precious sandwich fell from my nerveless 
fingers and sped downstream. I was dum- 
founded. Three miles, when I believed it to 
be twenty — three miles in eight hours! 

But if the truth were in a sense an evi- 
dence of effort inadequately rewarded, if 
the everlasting mar of those waters was at 
last getting on my nerves, I forgot all this 
as we stood ankle-deep or waded to our hips 
in the creek and cast our artificial lures into 
some churning riffle or shaded pool; I 

it as the BpaeUad beauties, whose movements 
were so quick that we almost never beheld 
them in the water, "raised" and were off with 
the hook, the line, seemingly the rod itself; 
forgot it as we played them in the excite- 
ment of the man beside the ticker or the 
winning Itettor at the race course: forgot 






92 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



it as our sacks bulged farther and farther 
out with trout whose like I had believed ex- 
isted only in fable or tradition. To the eye, 
Marble Creek was a thundering torrent of 
the mountains, interesting only SO far as 
boulders and rapids and waterfalls are in- 
teresting; but to us, the initiated, its every 
riffle leaped with fish whose mould is the 
mould of perfection, whose coloring' is of 
the most exquis.tely blended pinks and vio- 
lets and purples; whose capture is the acme 
of the fisherman's delight, and whose meat 
is the finest, sweetest, purest of all animal 
flesh. 

I remember — what incident of that day 
do I not recall with initial vividness? — that 
at one time I was casting into a large, shad- 
owy pool at the base of a cliff across stream. 
1 was standing several yards from shore, 
ankle-deep, on the brink of a narrow rushing 
channel. Suddenly I hooked a trout which 
stole half of my line before I could stop the 
reel. Instinctively, I realized that my "big 
fish" had come. My excitement was intense. 
I knew that my only hope lay in tiring him. 
That procedure lasted for five minutes; it 
seemed five years. My nephew encouraged 
me with shouts and yelled advice above the 
roaring of the waters. By merest chance I 
started the big trout sw'mming toward me. 
Yard after yard I reeled him in. Then, for- 
getting caution, I deliberately swung his 
great weight over the stones toward the 
shore. Where he struck the water could not 
have been more than an inch deep and fully 
twenty feet from the main channel. Yet I 
never saw him after that. He was gone — 
and my best fly with him ! 

The sun gave us tardy reminder that we 
were a long, arduous way from camp. We 
were reluctant, yet willing, to leave the spot. 
The feeling was in us that we had only to 
turn our backs upon th's enchantment and 
it would be transformed into the reality of 
commonplace things. Yet our fish sacks 
were stuffed to bursting; we had even strung 
the surplus of our catch. 

We reeled in our lines and started. But 
now, with the excitement, the fascination, 
the glamour worn off, fatigued by those long 
morning hours of continued walking, and 
carrying a heavy load of fish, my feet be- 
came suddenly sore and mutinous. The 
force of the riffles, too, in my weariness 
made me nervous. It was all changed, but 



the realization of that change worked the 
great disillusionment. The roar of the creek 
took on a mocking note; the silences were 
pregnant with ill-omen ; the stones, indeed, 
seemed slipperier than before. My whole 
body ached dully. My nephew had grown 
tantalizing. He appeared no more tired 
than at the start, and constantly forged 
away from me. In drawing myself over a 
rock, I slipped and splashed my full length 
in a deep hole. He turned around and 
grinned at my dripping condition. It made 
me sullen. My feet barely dragged. I be- 
gan to see why staid old fishermen declined 
our twenty-two-inch trout with thanks. 

My nephew vanished around a bend; re- 
appeared again on the opposite side of the 
creek. 1 did not know where he had crossed. 
I could see no place which I considered safe. 
I could not make him hear me. In my anger 
I waded in, detenu ned to cross regardless 
of consequences; made the mistake of get- 
ting in front instead of behind a big rock; 
and felt my feet, braced though they were, 
slipping, slipping in the gurgling whirlpool in 
which I stood. I shouted fearfully to the boy. 
He was farther out of hearing than before 
Frantically, 1 tried to push through; failed. 
I no longer dared to 1 ft my feet. I felt 
that, if I once got down in that horrible 
current, I would never get up. It was as 
near as I have ever come to a complete loss 
of reason. 

Of an instant, I saw a tall, broad-shoul- 
dered fellow peering down .it me from a 
rock overhead. I saw him clamber down in 
answer to my cries, though his figure was 
but a blur to my reeling brain. My hold 
loosened alarmingly. 1 went down, clutch- 
ing, clutching at those mocking rocks. But 
even as I went to my death, I felt the 
stranger's strong una reach out and stay my 
going. 

A drowning dream is popularly supposed 
to be a pleasant sensation. The water closes 
placidly over one's head. There comes the 
feeling of indifference, almost of ease. 
Down — down one slowly sinks as if through 
a yielding bed of countless feathers. 

Mine was none of this sort. In the re- 
pellant detail of my dream, I hurtled down- 
stream in that murky green inferno, banging 
my helpless body against those jagged rocks, 
sweeping on, half -stunned, dying with every 
lingering horror of the process, past my 



AN IDYLL OF TllK TROUT BTREAMS. 






nephew anil on — on until, snatched asiile by 
an all powerful whirlpool. 1 sank into it* 
oblivion and death. 

I awoke with the aoU sweat dinging to 
me in great globule*. A woman, young anil 
dexterous <>f linger, was bonding over me, 
washing a small trash on my forehead. Above 
me m the rough-hewn logs of a home- 
steader's cabin. I lay on a cot by the win- 
dow. A> 1 abm my eyes now, 1 recall the 
c|iiiet words with whirh she satistied my lir-t 
impatient quer> - . 

"This is a homesteader's cabin, sir. You 
are alnuit two miles from your camp; I be- 



"You can thank him by forgetting him— 
and the whole incident," she answered. "Vmi 
do not understand this, perhaps; sometime 
you may. Do you think you are able to 
take the trail T" 

1 saw that she wanted me to go, and 
acquiesced. The walk of a minute brought 
u- to the trail, ami there I left her with a 
last aTOW«] of my gratefulness. 

M\ thoughts were unusual ones as I 
plunged into the woods. Gradually the 
truth was dawning upon me. Scattered 
fragments of my brother's conservation 
shaped ihcinselve- in my mind -fragments 




■I'lrifi; thi l.illlr Titun That CMNMNoa PdiiiII .l;i;>ni. 



lieve you are one of the parly camping at 
the mouth of the creekt" I nodded. "When 
you are rested." she went on. "I will show 
yon the trail. You had a narrow escape." 

My glance, as it roved about the room, 
fell upon my tish sack and rod. both intact. 
Instinctively. I reached for my watch. It 
was after five and growing dusk. I sat up 
determinedly, a little weak at first, but with 
training strength. 

"Where is the man who brought me 
here — pulled me out of the creek?" I asked. 
"I want to thank him." 

I shall never forget how her sharp but 
kindly eyes looked at me. 



concerning a man, in hiding not three mile* 
from our camp, who mouths before had 
shot down a da 'ui-juin|ier as he knelt to 
drink from a spring. Like a flash I .was 
convinced that it was the murderer who had 
saved my life and subsequently disappeared. 
It was his wife faithful to him through 
all — who had shown me the trail. She lived 
there alone in their homestead, while he. 
no doubt, remained in nearby concealment 
and in instant communicatinii with an end- 
less chain of informants in the guise of set- 
tlers and rivemien. There was a reward of 
seven thousand dollars on his head, but his 
position was all-advantageous and no per- 



94 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



son or persons cared to test its security. A 
thrill, half of dread, half pleasure, shot 
through me. 

I stopped suddenly, blinking. Before me 
stretched not one perfect trail, but several 
imperfect paths. In my self-absorption I 
had missed my way. The light was fading 
in the woods. I could not distinguish clear- 
ly the blazing on the trees. I had to act 
quickly. There was no use in retracing my 
steps; I could never find the cabin. My 
only hope lay in getting down to the river. 
As I listened I could hear its roaring. 

I left the trail and began the mountain's 
descent. On hands and knees over giant 
logs, falling through rotting brush-heaps, 
bruised, cut, my clothing in shreds, I went 
that mile to the river. It was a journey sec- 
ond only in fearfulness to the creek; but I 
came to the river at last and struggled 
through dusk and following darkness down 
to camp, there to spend my last strength in 
convincing my wife that I still lived and in 
recounting my remarkable story. 

It was a considerable time before I ven- 
tured to fish once more. T never again at- 



tempted the creek. But in the long, tran- 
quil days that came and vanished in our 
camp life, wonderful in their very essence 
of mystery, I thought, much upon that cabin 
isolated on the mountain and of the man 
and woman who had played so unforgettable 
a part in my commonplace existence. I 
even tried to philosophize a bit upon the in- 
cident as I fished or lolled contentedly about 
camp, eating, drinking and sleeping as a 
man to whom the flight from civilization had 
given a new being and a new life. 

The end came and we broke camp, shoot- 
ing in seven hours over those very riffles up 
which we had toiled with so much labor. 
At a little cabin half-way down, a lady pas- 
senger was taken on. We heard someone 
say as she got in the boat that she had ridden 
to that point five and twenty miles on the 
trail in the saddle. She did not appear to 
notice me; but I read in her quick little 
glance in my direction an appeal for my 
silence. And I, thinking of a lonely cabin 
and of a man who, though a fugitive from 
justice, had still a great human heart, held 
my peace. 




The Mouth of the St. Joe River — Harrison in the Distance. 









The Crater of Kllauea : MSM |Wm Fi> W the P(« of Holrmoumou, 2H Jfff*« .At»ai/. 
Immiiimt, FnregroHnd 1» 800 f>ef .Above t*e Genera/ Floor of the Cruti r. 



The 



A Day with a Volcano 

By Arthur Muirhcud Burns 




mr 



IKKW toursts who were in- 
ilulu'iriu; in a late supper at 

'n I' Hilo's restaurants on 

the night <>f January !) last 
wen- anion:; tin' tirst to see 
that the mighty mountain of 
Mauna Loa hail broken into eruption. In 
the balmy tropie night they wore taking 
things easily enough, when sonic one sud- 
denly noticed a glare in the heavens. 

"Must be some plantation on tire." sug- 
gested some one, but in two seconds a col- 
umn of flame-lit smoke sprang into the air 
for thousands of feet it would be rash to 
guess how many thousands — and Hilouians 
knew there was trouble in the crater of 
Mokuawooweip. the pit at the summit of the 
mountain. 



It happened that the present writer was 
awakened almost immediately after the first 
discovery Of the outbreak and in common 
with others, in werd stapes of dress and un- 
. hurried to one of ihe bridges that 
spans the Wailuku River to got an uninter- 
rupted view. Tl e sight was one which could 
not he discounted even by the aurora in its 
most brilliant displays. 

That tl tbreak was in the crater of 

Mokuaweoweo there couh! be 1 ttle doubt, 
for. though forty miles away, the northerly 
I p of the crater was clearly delined. 

From behind this dark barrier there up- 
rose a tremendous pillar of smoke, which, lit 
as it was by the seething' expanse of lava in 
the pit below, looked as though it were virtu- 
ally flame itself. The crater is inanv miles 



96 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




Making a Landing from B. S. "Kauai.' 



in circumference, and it seems certain that 
at the time of the outbreak the whole floor 
must have broken into activity. The column 
of fire rose steadily as the early morning 
hours wore on, and a vast black cloud, like 
some colossal umbrella, began to spread 
above. At times this awesome pillar would 
be almost white, then again in a second or 
so it would turn bright golden and later 
sink to a deep crimson. The changes in the 
colorings and in the form of the pillar were 
kaleidoscopic and continual but from it all 
there came no sound to the hundreds of 
wondering watchers in H lo. 

Here it may be explained that the crater 
of Mokuaweoweo, from which this splendid 
phenomenon appeared, is not the "Volcano" 
which is visited by the average tourist. That 
is the crater of Kilauea, an outlet in the 
easterly (lank of Mauna Loa at a distance of 
some twenty odd m les from the summit and 
about nine thousand feet lower down. 
Mauna Loa's height has been officially re- 
corded as being 13,675 feet. 

The crowd watching the marvelous sight in 
Hilo waited up all night until, shortly be- 
fore daybreak, the intense light dwindled 
and when day dawned there was only the 
huge pall of smoke high in the air to g've 
evidence of what had happened. A few slight 
shocks of earthquake were felt during the 



night and later reports were to the effect 
that further up the mountain side there had 
been many shocks, though none did damage. 

It was on Friday, the 11th, that word 
reached Hilo which confirmed the forecast of 
old-timers, who declared that the pent-up 
lava had found an exit somewhere through 
the weaker wall of the mountain on the 
southerly or Ka-u side of the mountain, for 
the news came that coincident with the dis- 
appearance of fire in the crater of Mokua- 
weoweo a huge rift had appeared in the 
flank of Mauna Loa in the section known as 
Kahuku. The break occurred on the ranch 
of Colonel Norris, a wealthy cattleman. It 
was situated at an approximate height of 
seven thousand feet, and was distant about 
twenty miles from the sea. From the rift 
thus formed a tremendous flood of lava 
poured down the mountain side. The few 
who saw it say that at first it ran with fright- 
ful force, though as in its progress it cooled, 
the speed naturally grew slower and slower. 

By Saturday the lava had reached the 
Government road round the Island of Ha- 
waii, and in crossing it had put the telephone 
system out of existence completely, burning 
the poles and destroying the wires. Any 
correct information was thus doubly hard to 
obtain, and the following Tuesday the first 
party was organized to proceed to the flow 



A DAY WITH A VOLCANO. 



97 






by the steamship Kauai from Mil". l'ro- 
IMMIlling by I he easterly and southeasterly 
of t lie island, Ihe MM "t t lit- flow 
was reaelicd shortly after dusk on the night 
of the 15th, and all night long the visitors 
watched enthralled the rivers of fire; for 
the main stream had now split in two. The 
easterly id' the (lows was about half a mile 
wide and the westerly, some -i\ miles t,. 
tin* •thwe-.t. was slightly less. The com- 
plete MUM of the two rivers of molten rock 
coidd be traced for twenty miles or - 
the break in the mountain side. 

Karlv in the morning a landing was made, 
not without difficulty, for the shore is about 
as inhospitable a mass of black lava as 
could be imagined, and sheltering' a 
where the huge rollers from the South l'a 
citie may be avoided, are hard to find, 

There were just twenty-two Hilonians who 
managed to reach the oMOming lava flow, 
for, though the head of the stream was Imt 









■M^BhBM 


■*%* 


Mr" .#* 






l'ahnrh«r" Fl» 



Way to t» 



eak. 



The Oncoming Tide of -a-a." Moving About 30 
Feet an Hour. 

two miles from the sea, the two miles formed 
about as tough traveling as could be found. 
It was all over the flow of 1887. Part was 
over the smooth lava, which is known in 
Hawaiian as "pahoehoe", and the balance 
over the rough and brittle "a-a". The pa- 
hoehoe is crossed and reerossed with cracks 
which threaten sprained ankles or broken 
legs every minute, and the a-a is simply a 
tangled waste of congealed or crystallized 
lava, which cuts the toughest kind of boota 
to shreds in a very short time. 

But the journey, with all the attendant 
discomfort, was well worth the making. Ar- 
rived at the flow, the visitors saw a remark- 
able sight. The height of the wall of lava 
varied between fifteen and thirty feet, and 
by taking observations it was decided that 
it was progressing at the rate of thirty feet 
an hour. The flow was entirely a-a. It came 
on in a curious fashion, literally tumbling 
over itself. The top of the wall would 



98 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




On the Brink of the Pit of Halemaumau. 



The Pit Was over 500 Feet Deep When This Was 
Taken. 



crumble away and fall forward as the titanic 
forces in the volcano miles away sent forth 
more and more of its molten rock. This 
would repeat and repeat until the road to 
the sea was slowly being broken. Some huge 
pieces of lava would roll forward and roll a 
long distance, and on these the visitors would 
scorch letters, coins and so on. The wind 
setting from the sea, it was possible to go 
within a yard or two of the slowly-moving 
flow though a sl ; ght shift in the wind's direc- 
tion would send any living thing — short of 
the fabled salamander — scampering from the 
spot, so intense was the heat. 

But despite the fact that the flow reached 
within a mile of the sea, it was not destined 
to take the salt plunge this time, for on Sun- 
day, January 20, Madame Pele — the god- 
dess who, according to Hawaiian lore, con- 
trols subterranean fires — changed her mode 
of procedure and sent a blazing flood of lava 
into the pit of Halemaumau, the central pit 
of the crater of Kilauea. This spot is eas- 
ily thirty m'les from the scene of the former 
outbreak. That the lava flowed through 
some huge cavern is patent, for it first broke 



into the pit of Halemaumau at a point 
above the old floor. The floor of the pit was 
estimated as being ofiO feet below the gen- 
eral floor of the crater of Kilauea, and at 
this writing (February 2) the molten flood 
has filled up about 200 feet of this. There 
remains no reason, beyond the possible 
vagaries of Madame Pele, to suppose that 
the flow will cease, and if the central pit 
should fill to overflowing, the spectacle will 
assuredly be wonderful beyond description. 
Volcanic eruptions so far from being 
feared in Hawaii are actually welcomed, 
strange as this may appear to those who 
have never witnessed or experienced these 
phenomena. Kilauea is ever active to a 
greater or less extent, and this is regarded 
as a certain safety valve should the forces 
of nature feel restless. As a sample of ln»v 
the man most interested in the recent flow in 
Ka-u looks on little matters like a flow of 
lava half a mile wide across his ranch, it is 
recorded that Colonel Norris commented 
thus: "I woke up some time in the middle 
of the night and saw a big glare, and I 
thought the kitchen was afire. I got up in 




On the Seto Flow Where th< llrcit Was MMI 




The Little Beggar," One of the Sumerou* Blowhole* WMcfc 8pouf Lava When the Volcano 

Is ill Eruption. 



100 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 







A Bridge Over a Crack in the Crater Floor. 



a hurry, but found that it was only a lava 
flow, so I went back to sleep." 

Meanwhile it will be safe to hazard the 
guess that never before has Madame Tele 
had so many pilgrims to worship at her 
shrine. Steamers have been dispatched both 
from Hilo and Honolulu crowded to the limit 
with people keen on seeing the wonderful 
display in Ka-u, while hundreds have rid- 
den or driven overland to the scene. Now 
that the flow there has ceased, the volcano 
of Kilauea, which as has been explained 
is an outlet for the same flow, is the ob- 
jective point, and the usually quiet streets of 
Hilo grow unwontedly gay with the presence 
of parties of tourists either going or coming. 

The trip in the older days was something 
of a journey, but now it can be made in all 
comfort. A railroad ride takes the trav- 
eler through the cane plantations to within 
nine miles of the Volcano House, the re- 
mainder of the journey being by stage 
through a riot of tropical growth. 

The first sight of Kilauea !s awe-inspiring. 
The earth drops suddenly away immediately 
in front of the Volcano House to a depth of 
over 800 feet, and there stretches the vast 
lava plain miles in extent. In the middle 



distance a column of steam is always rising 
from the pit of Halemaumau, and when, as 
at present, the pit is filling with live lava, 
the glow at night is a sight not to be missed. 
To the west lies the mighty bulk of Mauna 
Loa, the slope appearing so gradual that it 
is hard to realize that the summit is 13,675 
feet high. At present, despite the terrific 
heat below, the summit is snow-capped. 

The brink of the pit of Halemaumau is 
of course the point sought as soon as pos- 
sible by sight-seers. The trail thither leads 
across Kilauea in almost a straight line for 
over three miles. Once arrived at the br nk 
the fascination is so great that people find 
it hard to tear themselves away. This is 
especially true of those who visit the scene 
at night. The turbulent lava spout here 
and there in fountains which fall back with 
sullen splashes. The continuous swishing of 
the fiery flood against the walls which im- 
prison it, the marvelous changes in the col- 
ors shown by the bottom of the pit, the 
knowledge that one is in the presence of a 
force so great that the human mind does not 
even dare to estimate it — all of these combine 
to make the experience one never to be for- 
gotten. 



UNIVERSITY 

OF 




am Pli< 



Out-of-Doors in California 

By George Wharton James 

Author of "In and Around tin- Grand Canyon, I'he Indians of the Painted Desert Region,' 

"Indian Basketry." "In and Out of the Old Missions of California," 
"Traveler's Hand Hook to Southern California," etc 




is not my purpose in lliis 
article to speak of the out- 
of-door sports, such :is golf. 
n|o. tennis, yachting, hunt- 
in !.'. fishing and the like. 
Kvrrvhody knows of the 
Winter golfing and polo nu r . anil the (Treat 
games of tennis that California '.rives, and 
pages and illustrations galore have been eir 
ciliated showing the advantages the Golden 
State possesses for yachting, hunting and 
fishing. In the main the California!! need 
not l>oast nor brag about these things, yet, 
somehow, you cannot keep the genuine Cali- 
fornian from gloating over its natural ad- 
vantages. He knows his state is j>eculiarly 
'handsome.'' and he is bound that everyone 



else shall know it. Its skies are bluer, its 
mountains higher, its deserts drier, its for- 
ests more "foresty," its waters wetter, its 
mirages more mystic, its islands more charm- 
ing, its fruits sweeter, its Mowers more de- 
licious, its air more balmy, etc., etc., etc., 
than those of any other country on earth. 
The California orator puts one foot on the 
North Pah and the other on the North Star. 
gum calmly ami complacently over the whole 
universe, and then compares it all with his 
own state — greatly to the credit and glorili- 
cation of the latter. 

Ami I am a California!!, with all the de- 
fects and vices of my coin|ieera. 

So. if at the outset. I begin to brag of the 
"glorious climate of Califomy." I shall but 



102 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




A Camp in the Woods. 



The Graham Pi oto Co. 



follow in the wake of such honored names 
as those of Bret Harte, Charles Warren 
Stoddard, Thomas Starr King, Joseph Le 
Conte, Joaquin Miller and a host of others. 
For, be it brag or boast, or solemn assertion, 
there is no denying to the Californian the 
claim that both his Summer and Winter cli- 
mate — in the main — surpass those of the rest 
of America for any out-of-door life. It 
seems as if God knew that the time would 
come when hundreds of thousands of his 
American children would need an out-of-door 
climate every day in the year. He gave them 
the granite boulders of Vermont and Mas- 
sachusetts to develop sturdiness of charac- 
ter; he gave them the harsh Winters of the 
North to bring out scorn of all outward in- 
conveniences, and he gave them the florid 
warmth with its moisture in the South to de- 
velop semi-tropical graces, but he kept for 
California the ideal Winter and Summer cli- 
mate — neither too warm nor too hot, nor too 
dry, nor too moist— for the development of 
the highest physical, mental and spiritual 
manhood. For it cannot be denied that 
where the most favorable soil and climate 
exist the best flowers, fruits and vegetable 
products spring forth; and in the physical, 
mental and spiritual world it is the same. 
California is the paradise for all out-of- 
door lovers. It affords every kind of climate, 
from the most vigorous to the most balmv 



and mild. I know of no other state in 
the country where snow falls so deep that 
the horses have to be trained to the use of 
snowshoes, and where a dozen ponderous en- 
gines are required to force a snow-plough 
through the drifts, and where a hundred or 
more miles of snow-sheds have had to be 
built to permit the movement of Winter 
trains; and yet within a few hours of these 
rigors one may sit out of doors, reading his 
book, or go into the garden and gather helio- 
trope, violets, roses and a thousand varie- 
ties of flowers, or call upon the gardener for 
guavas, pomegranates, oranges, lemons, 
strawberries and other rich and luscious 
fruits. For several years it was my New 
Year's boast that— on that day— I rode from 
the buds, butterflies, bees, blossoms and hum- 
ming birds of my garden to the snowdrifts 
of Mount Lowe, where I enjoyed snow-ball- 
ing, tobogganing, sleighing and other Win- 
ter sports; back again to the Pasadena 
Tournament of Roses, where I have seen a 
quarter of a million roses of one kind used 
in the decoration of one float; and thence 
down to the Pacific for an hour's enjoyable 
swim. Where else in the world is such a 
day of varied climates possible? 

This climate in itself is an education to 
the young in being out of doors. It offers 
its own peculiar lives. It is a most effective 
"Call to the Wild." "Come out, come out!" 




Camp Life at WiUon't Peak. 



The 




The Los Angeles Polo Team. 



The Graham Photo Co 



it says, "for here are life, health, vim, vigor, 
in this sun-laden, oxygen-charged atmos- 
phere." Indeed there is scarcely a day 
throughout the whole year when even deli- 
cate children cannot be out a large portion 
of the time. Babies are taken out Winter 
and Summer. They have none of the anemic 
and bloodless look of children kept indoors 
throughout the Winter months. They be- 
come "brown as Indians," for, like the In- 
dians, they expose themselves more or less 
to the sun and the atmosphere, and become 
at the same time browned and healthy. 

California is a paradise to the artist. 
These outdoor cond'tions peculiarly appeal 
to him, for they enable him to come in closest 
contact with nature more months in the year 
than is possible in the more rigorous cli- 
mates. Then, too, think of the color effects 
that are produced here — colors entirely and 
totally different from those of any other 
part of the country. John C. Van Dyke, in 
his prose-poem The Desert, has shown how 
wonderfully this phase of California appeals 
to the color-sense in the artist, and when one 
recalls the variety of the scenery from the 
color standpoint he is amazed and delighted 
at the wealth of suggestions it affords. For 
its scenery is varied, picturesque — deserts, 
oceans, islands, mountains, forests, canons, 
valleys, as nowhere else in the same extent of 



territory, and the rugged, wild and forbid- 
ding is "cheek by jowl" with the cultivated, 
gentle, refined and pastoral. The greatest 
mountain painters of America gained their 
inspirations here — Moran, Hill. Keith and 
Bierstadt, and now Gardner Symons, Brown, 
Lindgren, Santerwin, Judson and Eytel, 
with many others, are proving that there is 
still potency in the magic of the Sierras and 
their companion deserts, to affect the new 
and younger school as it did the older. 

Here, Winter as well as Summer, the artist 
may work out of doors, bathed in the sun- 
shine and in touch with rich floral treasures 
and the sweet scent of orange blossoms 
on the one hand, snow-clad mountain- 
peaks and on the other, gorgeously colored 
valleys leading the eye to pearly-faced ocean 
in which bathe amethystine and opal islands. 

The "House-Boater" finds in California the 
ideal spot of the world. Here he need never 
to abandon his home on the watery deep. 
Safely moored in the quiet bays, inlets and 
sequestered nooks of the Pacific, the Winter 
is just as tempting as the Summer, and the 
out-door life is made perpetual. There is a 
peculiar fascination about house-boating to 
those who love the water. William Black, 
Frank R. Stockton and John Kendriek Bangs 
did not in any way exhaust the literary pos- 
sibilities of the subject. While I have spoken 



OUT OF DOORS IN CALIFORNIA. 



105 



of the "moored" boat, it is by no means nec- 
essary that it should even be moored longer 

than its owner desires. Movement is the soul 
of house-boat life. Today you are anchored 
in one spot, your eyes resting upon one kind 
of coast, and tomorrow you may be some- 
where else with an entirely different picture 
I you. On the house-boat there are no 
tixed land-capes; BO externally monotonous 
front lawn, with the selfsame tree stuck in 
the center, that never cliamres; no hack 
yard, with its outhouses, chicken-coops, rab- 
bits piles and general accumulation of 
"culch." The kindly water takes everything 
that is disagreeable into its embrace, and 
then presents a smiling face over the sep- 
ulchre of "dead soldiers," old tin cans and 
mouldy debris it has so accommodatingly 
buried. Talk about a whited sepulchre! 
There is no whited sepulchre equal to the 
ocean, and the charm of it all is. the water 
is unconscious of its iniquities and smiles at 
you with such conscious innocence that you 
smile back and take it at its face value. 
California is the paradise for the young 



man Of woman -for, thank Cod, young 
women are learning in its out-door expan 
siveness to exercise their rational inclina- 
tions to nature study — to know nature in all 
her aspects at first hand. Thoreau. fiilbert 
White and John Burroughs have made cer- 
tain quiet and picturesque localities classic 
by their out-of-door pictures of thetn. Cali- 
fornia has its John M iiir. its William Keith. 
its Mr. and Mrs. T. G. 1-euinion, its Joaepll 
and Elizabeth Orinnell, its Clarence Kim:. 
it- W. C. Hartlett. Olive Thorns Miller. 
Geraldine Bonner, Mary Austin, Sharlot M. 
Hall, and a few others, hut its great canons 
sra ><■! uinle-ciiheil, its deserts are scarcely 
more than barely known, its mountain peaks 
seldom climbed. Instead of tooling away 
their energies on golf and polo and tennis — 
sports all right enough in their way — why 
should not the adventurous take hold of this 
fawiilialiim country in a larger, braver, 
bolder wayt Muir will live as long as the 
Sierras live, because be has identified himself 
with their life. What a wild thr.ll of ecstatic 
pleasure conies over one as he reads his de- 




A CruUer at Arch Rork. 



Th« Cralmni I'lmlii 



106 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



scription of climbing a tall tree in the high- 
est Sierras while a wild storm was raging. 
To have the pure air of God pumped into 
you by nature's own force-pump, to feel it 
going in at every pore and reaching every 
nerve and blood vessel, tuning up every par- 
ticle of the physical being; is there any won- 
der that a man with such an experience comes 
like the breezes he describes into the lives of 
civilization-pampered men and women? What 
golf or tennis can ever equal his mountain- 
climbing adventures? Think of the muscle- 
hardening and soul-strengthening process 
that comes to the true Sierra climber — up 
among the peaks, down in the canons, strug- 
gling up the slopes. I once took Clarence 
Eddy, the great organist, on a trip up one of 
our high mountains, and, fortunately, a fierce 
storm arose when we were well up the peak. 
It was his first experience in anything of the 
kind. His hat was whirled away into the 
"everywhere" and he never saw it again; his 
long beard was rudely tossed as no civilized 
wind ever tossed it, and he was once literally 
lifted from the saddle by the force of the 
winds. The howling and shrieking and wail- 
ing and roaring were wonderful, and where 
the trees offered resistance the battle was 
thrilling, even though one of the combatants 
was invisible. When we returned to the 
quietude of the valley, the great organist ex- 
claimed, "That was an experience I would 
not have missed for anything. It has given 
me new conception of music. I shall play 
as I never have played before." 

For fourteen years Carl Eytel has been 
fraternizing with the Colorado Desert. He 
has tramped over its sandy wastes, climbed 
its sentinel mountains, explored its various 
canons, drank from its few springs and 
water pockets, followed its wild animals and 
watched its bird and insect life. Time and 
again he has been without either food or 
water, but, learning as the coyote, mountain 
lion and Indian learn, he has discovered 
where, even in the desert, one may sustain 
life; so he has battled on. The result is, he 
has accumulated a store of desert sketches 
that he is now putting on canvas for the 
benefit of the world. He will make known 
to thousands, who may never see them in 
reality, by means of his pictures, the won- 
ders, glories and mysteries of the desert. 

And while speaking of the desert, let us 
not forget the great and marvelous abundance 



of health that is stored there for the sick and 
ailing of mankind. If those who were suf- 
fering from lung, bronch'al or stomach trou- 
bles would come early enough and bravely 
live out-of-doors in the desert or on the near- 
by mountains, their speedy return to perfect 
health would be absolutely assured. This is 
the lesson the friends of those who are be- 
coming sick should learn. Before they are 
too far gone to be helped, ship them off to 
the West. Let some friend go along, if pos- 
sible. Then, instead of taking them to 
crowded hotels in c'ties, where they are made 
to feel that they are unwelcome — where 
everyone, from proprietor of the hotel down 
to the shoeblack, eyes them with suspicion 
lest their disease be contagious, and thus adds 
to the burden of illness the mental disquiet 
that such treatment always brings — I say in- 
stead of this, encourage the sick one to get 
out into the open, ride horseback, walk, climb 
(in season), sleep out of doors, work a little 
at whatever occupation presents itself, and 
my life for it, in a short time sickness will 
be driven out, and health, strength and hap- 
piness take its place. As I write a case in 
point — one of many with which I am fa- 
miliar — comes to mind. A young student in 
one of our universities showed signs of 
breaking down. Two sisters and two brothers 
had already "passed on," yet I could see no 
reason why this fine youth, capable of so 
many large things, should do the same. So 
I went up to his home purposely to see him 
and his mother, and I placed the matter fully 
before them. In less than forty-eight hours, 
equipped with Navajo blankets for sleeping 
out, he left for the mountains.' He got a job 
as a herder of the range horses for a band 
of cattlemen. Day after day he rode out, 
easily and gently, watching his horses lest 
they stray too far away. Occasionally, when 
he felt like it, he took a dashing gallop. 
When night came he ate sparingly and care- 
fully of healthful food, masticating it thor- 
oughly, and then turned into his blankets 
under the stars, taught himself to breathe 
through his nostrils and as deep as he could, 
and thus absorbed health while he slept. In 
a few months he came home and for four 
years worked like a demon at his college 
course, a thing that would have been abso- 
lutely impossible without the stored-up 
health he had gained in his out-of-door life. 
The time is not far d : stant when the great- 




A Hunter, on the Kern Rivrr. 



108 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




On the McLeod River, California. 



est sanitarium of the world will be placed on 
the Colorado Desert, for there the great 
laboratory of God is making the purest air; 
there shines the health-giving and disease- 
banishing sun, and at night out-of-door sleep- 
ing is simply delicious. 

The Pacific Ocean with its nearby chan- 
nel islands of Santa Catalina, San Clemente. 
San Nicholas, Santa Rosa, San Miguel and 
Santa Cruz all allure to an out-of-door life 
for the water lover. These islands (save 
Santa Catalina) are but little known. What 
fun and zest of life to go and explore, then 
making a map of their coasts, photographing 
the'r distinctive features and describing their 
flora and fauna. Here is an object for out- 
of-door life that not only expands one's own 
soul, but makes the explorer able to minister 
to the wish of others for knowledge. 

Nor is this by any means the most impor- 
tant feature of this educational value of Cali- 
fornia's out-of-door life. Plato, Socrates and 
Diogenes, in the somewhat similar climate of 
Greece, used to conduct their schools of phil- 
osophy out-of-doors. Not only were the 
groves God's first temples, but out-of-doors 



was the first and the best schoolhouse. No 
college, no university, however well equipped, 
can begin to compare with a suitable out- 
of-door climate for the purposes of educa- 
tion. And when with the climate there are 
found all the other conditions for study, one 
has an ideal location for his growing family. 
Nowhere on earth do these conditions exist 
more ideally than in California. A few years 
ago a learned savant and literateur asked me 
if I would take charge of the education of 
his four ch'ldren — three boys and a girl. I 
said I might under certain conditions. When 
he asked what these were I informed him 
that my first requisition would be for five 
ponies, on which we could roam over the sur- 
rounding country. For books, we would, at 
present, study nature. Our geology we would 
gain at first hand, by studying the strata of 
the mountains and in the ravines, and watch- 
ing the deposits of rivers and ocean. Botany 
could best be learned by personal observa- 
tion of the habits of plants, flowers, shrubs 
and trees; practical geography could be 
studied from his own front door and riding 
over his pastures and the hills beyond; 



TO PEOTEA. 



109 



\ and entomology would have real in- 

II' every animal studied was trapped 

and taken home for awhile, and every insert 

ade the object of personal observation. 

"Hali!" said my friend, "how would you 
teach my children grammar and language and 
matter- of that kind without bookst" 

"Nothing in the world more easy." was my 
reply. I showed him how that each child 
could be allowed to choose a subject for his 
own personal study and observation for the 
week, and then, at certain times, he should 
be called upon to tell all he had seen. In 
that way the powers of observation and re- 
ihition would be developed, and in speaking 
of a subject in which his own deepest inter- 
est had been enlisted the child would express 
himself in the most simple, direct and effec- 
tive manner. There is no grammar or 
rhetoric book on earth can teach the use of 
language as can this method. 

And ( 'alifornians are hnghmhlg to realize 
the advantage of this out-of-door method of 
education. There is one large private school 
established on this basis. Three-fourths of 
the school life of the boys is spent out of 
doors. Many teachers in the other schools 
an' slowly coming to the same wise methods. 
Children are being taken to the beaches to 



study geography, \\a\c currents, and the tide. 
The Sierra Club each year takes a large 
tnemhership under the irudance of such 
teachers as John Muir. Joseph l.e Conta, 
William Keith. Charles Keeler. Hart Merni- 
nan and others, and geology, botany, fores- 
try. Ornithology, etc., are studied in the open. 
Thus California is opening her eyes to 
her manifest destiny. She is the country of 
the out-of-doors. She is to teach the world 
this lesson of the fuller, broader, healthier. 
happier life. Get into the open. The sun 
and air not only make more healthy the body, 
hut they expand the soul. The out-of-door 
life is the life for the highest and best of 
man's spiritual nature. Moses went into the 
wilderness and up the mountains for his 
preparation, Elijah went out into the soli- 
tudes, and Christ himself found in the great 
open the power to go on with his work for 
Nation of men. Nature, after all, is 
our greatest, best and most effective teacher. 
Where nature wears such a pleasing, attrac- 
tive and varied presence as it does in Cali- 
fornia, men and women are wise who yield 
to her allurements, give themselves up to her 
guidance and receive at her bountiful hands 
all the material, mental and spiritual bene- 
fits she so generously offers. 



To Protea 

By Porter Garnett 



I -at beside thee wondering like a child, 

I'nlearned in love, in woman's ways untaught, 
When, from the ceaseless flood of life, I caught 

One moment of contentment undefiled. 

Then in thine eyes, so innocent and mild, 

Mine met the magic that they long had sought; 
All other passions seemed lo be as naught ; 

I only wished to be by thee beguiled. 

Yet never might I search thy secret soul, 
Nor woo thee as I would, but ever curb 
Ripe pass on's promptings, ardent of thy charms. 

(Thou knowest my desires and my dole.) 
I crave thee as I praise thy gTace superb. 
Thy lips, thy perfume, and thy passive arms. 



Stage Affairs in New York 

A Parthian Glance 



By William Winter 




HE New York theatrical sea- 
son of 1906-1907 termin- 
ated, practically, with the 
close of the engagement of 
Mr. Robert Mantell at the 
New Amsterdam Theater, an 
engagement that began on April 29 and 
ended on May 11. Mr. Mantell gave sixteen 
performances, acting, in irregular succes- 
sion, Brutus, Shylock, Richard III, Macbeth, 
Richelieu, Lear, and Iago. It is to be re- 
gretted that an actor so potential and auspi- 
cious should continue to use, even in an 
amended form, the wretched travesty of 
Shakespeare's "Richard III" that was manu- 
factured by Colley Cibber. That fabric is, 
theatrically, effective, and, because of its 
obvious "points" and clap-trap speeches, it 
is popular with the gallery multitude. Ed- 
win Booth and Henry Irving, both of whom 
revived the original, in a condensed form, 
declared the Cibber vers'on to be the public 
favorite. Gibber's version, nevertheless, is 
a wicked thing — for the Gloster that Cibber 
presents is a vulgar miscreant, false to na- 
ture, void of poetry, and fit only for the use 
of a soap-chewing, barn-storming ranter, 
and it is a libel on the memory of a great 
king. The Gloster of Shakespeare, on the 
contrary, although, in many particulars, 
false to authentic history, is a brilliant image 
of royalty, a complex, subtle character, a 
veritable reflex of a possible man, bitter with 
sardonic self-mockery and piteous with the 
anguish of remorse. The play, of course, 
because of its great length and its diffuse 
speeches, requires condensation for the mod- 
ern stage. 

The most illustrious presentment of 
Gloster that has been seen of late years is 
that of Richard Mansfield — a performance 
which, at certain points (notably at the de- 
livery of the soliloquy, in the tent scene, 
"Jesu have mercy!") is as powerful as any 
that has graced the stage within the last fifty 



years. Mr. Mansfield's arrangement of the 
play, although it has the merit of practica- 
bility, is not good. There is opportunity 
for a really fine revival of Shakespeare's 
"Richard III"; but, probably, no contempo- 
rary actor would be willing to take the nec- 
essary trouble, incur the expense, and forego 
the "laughs" and the chances to "split the 
ears of the groundlings" that> are afforded 
by the Cibber concoction. 

It has been made known that Mr. Mantell 
intends to add to his repertory not only Sir 
Pertinax Maesycophant, in "The Man of the 
World," but also Shakespeare's Richard II. 
That tragedy of "Richard II" has generally 
been found '"caviar to the general"; but, 
adequately presented, it would be magnifi- 
cent as an historic spectacle, while a verita- 
ble impersonation of the costly, wayward, 
eloquent, pathetic king would deeply im- 
press every lover of acting. No one has 
acted that part, on our stage, since the time 
of Edwin Booth, who revived it about thirty 
years ago. In England it was attempted, 
not very long since, by Mr. H. Beerbohm 
Tree. The success of any presentment of 
"Richard II" must largely depend on beauty 
of speech; for the diction of it is magnifi- 
cent. Mr. Mantell closed his season here 
with a performance of Iago, and it is not 
too much to say that this was the most 
truthful and dramatically effective imper- 
sonation of that specious, implacable, ter- 
rible character that has been seen on our 
stage since the days of Edwin Booth. The 
make-up was not fortunate and the actor 
was not scrupulously heedful as to verbal 
accuracy and as to the shading of inflection 
in his reading of the text. There is not a 
line allotted to Iago that can be changed to 
advantage. Mr. Mantell said "probable to 
thinking" instead of "probal to thinking". 
The meaning is the same, but "probal" is 
the better word, and. furthermore, the 
rhythm requires it. "Probal" and "acknown" 



A IWHTllIAN GLANCE. 



Ill 



but they :ui' used by 

iiicl I hey are suitable to him. In all 

M Mr. Mantcll is mora <t less 

careless as to i the text ami modn- 

of tones, ami for tlint reason lie loses 

(vantage of tine effects that lie might 

readily make. When Edwin Booth acted 

Iaifn. giving a performance of the part that 

ever equaled, be achieved results tliai 

were wonderful in the sanctified, infernally 

fill expression of p tcoiitt solicitude. 

•inning candor, genial i iradeship. noble 

■agnaminity, bluff manliness, and alluring 
virtue by such a tpeeiona sympathy of 
manner and such adroit, subtle, and eonvine- 
|Bf inflections of the roiea aa constituted the 

consummate perfection of hypocrisy and 
night have deceived the Devil himself. The 

part of [ago is one of the most stupendous 
achievements of both literary and dramatic 

h\ Mantell baa act pliahed so much 

with it that he may readily aceonipl sh more. 
tcellence is his preservation 

of the eharaeter of honesty. He enters abso- 
into the spirit of virtuous, indentions, 
ruefully explicit fair dealing that this arch 
hypiH-r te assumes, and his delivery of the 
explanatory speech in extenuation of ( 'as 
sio's fault, and likewise his slow, gradual. 
■droit, insinuating, deprecatory approach to 
the climax of hideous calumny with which 
Iago accomplishes the temptation of Othello 
alousy ami murder are admirably 
itic. 
In the closing weeks of the seas ,11 there 
arious spasmodic manifestations of 
miscellaneous theatrical activity. Mine. Alia 
Na/uuova. a Russian actress who has ac- 
quired an imperfect command of the Eng- 
lish language, presented herself in an ex- 
emplary image of in schievoiis. indelicate, 
eatdike coquetry, and. by apt simulation of 
-!i allurement, piquant petulance, the 
blandishments of sex. and the rapid altera- 
of capricious mood, now coy. now 
■ nt. now amatory, now passionate, and 
■OV gajdy reckless, evinced her capability of 
ng a peculiarly harmful and despiea- 
[ble type of woman. The play is called 
''Countess Coquette", The coquette has a 
husband and a lover, and aha amuses herself 
by playing one against the other, terminat- 
ling her wayward frolic by placing her lover 
[in a ridiculous position. Mine. Xazimova 
pas talent and experience, but she is not. in 



any way, an exceptional actress; while her 
play the fabric of an Italian writer, Ro 

barto Braeeo is frirolona and unclean. It 
is scarcely needful to add that she is one of 
the followers <>f the [been cult. Miss Grace 

. an expert actress in jaunty, impetu- 
ous, tart character, of the Susan Nipper 
order, revived the old farcical play of "Di- 
vorcuiis." by Sardou. and gave I Sprightly 
performance of fyprienne. That play, at 
least in its English form, veils, without con- 
cealing, an un pertinent of common sense to 
discontented wives, and. though lacking re- 
tinenient. is pervaded with pleasantry. Miss 
G eo rg e ' s revival of it which, no doubt, will 

:i in other cities next season has en- 
abled the brilliant Ugh] comedian Mr. Frank 
Worthing to afford new evidences of his 
extraordinary talent for seemingly spontane- 
ous exposit on of playful, demure, ulitter- 
im_ r . nonchalant, fascinating character — in 

the vein of elegance, quizzical ease, and 
rippling mirth that was exemplified, in an 
earlier day. by such actors as Charles Math 

ews and Lester Wallaek. A new play, 
freighted with the good purpose of protest- 

gainsl legal discrimination in favor of 
wealth as opposed to poverty, was brought 
out at the Empire Theater, under the name 
of "The Silver Box," and Miss Ethel Barry - 
inore and Mr. Bruce McRa« acted the chief 
parts in it. One s< depicted the proceed- 
ings that are usual in a London police court — 
th«' intimation being that, to use the apt and 
beautiful words of Shakespeare. "In the ear 
rupted currents of this world, offense's jrilded 
baud may shove by justice": but. though 
creditable, neither the play nor the present- 
ment of it was particularly effective; and. 
after nineteen performances. "The Silver 
Box" w-as withdrawn. Miss Ethel Barryinore. 
more inter e sti ng as a piquant young woman 
than important as an actress, closed her sea- 
son in N'ew York on May 18, as also did 
\l - Eleanor Bobaon, another of the for- 
tuitous "stars" of the day — meaning, there- 
by, performers, of moderate talent, who. by 
chance, and in the dearth of actors of the 
first order, are thrust into conspicuity ami 
invested with a dstinction that they have 
not earned. There are many performers of 
that kind extant in this period, and they 
can be seen on other stages as well as that 
of the theater. 

One other theatrical example of evam - 



112 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



publicity is afforded by the momentary pres- 
ence of Miss Margaret Wycherly, a per- 
former who, not very long ago, suddenly 
came out of nowhere, as an exponent of the 
sickly sentimentality of Mr. W. B. Yeats, 
author of "The Land of Heart's Desire," 
etc. That Celtic bard, it may be remem- 
bered, sought notice and obtained contempt 
by designating Henry Irving as the chief 
enemy of the stage. Miss Wycherly has re- 
cently presented herself in an odoriferous 
fabric of maudlin nonsense relative to a girl 
who, when her seducer has fallen ill, and 
both of them are impecunious, becomes a 
street drab in order to obtain money for his 
support, and who is repudiated by the un- 
grateful blackguard, as soon as he recovers, 
and takes a fancy for another woman. The 
propensity that some female performers 
have to present themselves on the stage in 
a condition of supposititious sexual infamy 
commingled with physical suffering and 
mental delirium is inexplicable. That such 
a propensity to theatrical hysterics has long 
existed the records of the theater only too 
thoroughly prove. 

Mention should be made of the marriage 
of the eminent English actress, Miss Ellen 
Terry, whose tour of American cities ended 
on May 3, at New Haven, and who sailed on 
May 4 for her home in England. Miss Terry 
was married, on March 22, at Pittsburg, to 
Mr. James Carew (whose family name is 
Ussellmann), the leading actor in her dra- 
matic company. Mr. Richard Mansfield, who 
has passed through the ordeal of a danger- 
ous illness, was sufficiently recovered to ad- 
mit of his sailing for England, on May 12, 
and he is now recuperating at a sequestered 
country house in Surrey. It is not likely 
that he will act again for a year. 

Announcement has been made of an alli- 
ance between the two prominent theatrical 



syndicates of this period, formed, it is inn- 
claimed, for the management of vaudeville 
theaters only, all over the United States. 
One of those "trusts" is under indictment 
for criminal conspiracy in restraint of trade, 
but the case has not yet been brought to 
trial. It does not seem likely that partners 
who are interested in the theater as well as 
in the music hall will long refrain from 
"pooling" all their interests and endeavoring 
to accompl'sh a monopoly of the entire 
"business". That result, indeed, may be ex- 
pected. A few independent managers pro- 
claim themselves — Mr. David Belasco, Mr. 
Harrison Grey Fiske and Mr. Walter N. 
Lawrence — but, more and more, it is becom- 
ing evident that the American stage is 
doomed to become one prodigious depart- 
ment store. In the retrospect of the season 
now ended it is clearly seen that, with little 
exception, the animating motive has been 
commercial, not artistic. The methods of the 
syndicate are, however, the methods of the 
whole business world — covetous to clutch 
everything, and to crush all competition. In 
this city its iniquitous power has sufficed to 
exclude from its theaters persons who ven- 
ture to question the justice of its adminis- 
tration. Mr. James C. Metcalfe, a worthy 
citizen, an honorable man, a just and in- 
telligent writer, a person intellectually and 
soc : ally superior to every one of its mem- 
bers, is, for example, barred from all the 
theaters that it controls — the allegation 
against him having been made that he has 
attacked those tradesmen as Jews. There 
was a notion prevalent at one time that 
the country of George Washington and 
Thomas Jefferson was the country of 
Amer'cans. It is a singular state of things 
that now prevails, and many denotements 
indicate that it will grow worse be- 
fore it grows better. 




H'l/atta Day on Lake Washington. 



Motor Boating on Puget Sound 



Bv Daniel L. Pratt 




(PJ^^^^yHlli: Summertime < ;ill of the 
fyK^M/T^ -**"• w ''h ' ,s coo 'i D ' ue viatas 
I ' g| %C I " f distant sparkling waters, 

■^VvM I id promise of relief from the 
of cruise*, adventures, 
enchanted isles, and many 
- wiucii the heart of man yearns for, 
is nan: ; when it is ever in .your ears 

ami spread out in beckoning, entieinir pano- 
rama before your eyea, arf it is in the 
Piifret Sound count happy and 

fortunate is he who. be :- call, can 

answer it; who cranks his engine at the 
uttermost shore and speeds hia swift motor- 
boat out and away into tin- embrace of the 
inviting waters. V.i tnent, sky- 

scrapers, heat and care far in his wake. 

What need to seek a watering place away 
from the city, when a measure of gasoline 
and a fe« ns of tlie propeller shaft 

leaves behi- utter oblivion the humid 

life of the town and tike thins* you wish to 
forget, and ope' • re yoi: this beautiful 



gem of the inland seas, studded with a hun- 
dred emerald islands, hemmed in with its 
double barrier of lordly, imperial mountain 
peaks, reaching out its scores of channels and 
inlets into the heart of a dozen counties and 
offerin;.' an almost infinite opportunity for 
new voyages and explorationst Here in- 
deed is a Summer of continuous delight, with 
always the city to return to at sundown and 
always a new cruise at sunup. And many 
are the city dwellers on the Sound who take 
advantage of these opportun ties and ask no 
better Summer recreation. 

All of the large towns on Pupet Sound 
have grown very rapidly, are virtually new 
communities, and their people have been so 
engaged in building cities and fortunes thn: 
they have until recently used but little time 
for pleasure. They are just beginning to 
ava'l themselves of the fact that right at 
their doors is the finest playground in the 
world; one that would make older communi- 
ties envious, and will ultimately pro 






114 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




Running 



Miles an Hour, 



Remarkable Snap-Shot 
at Full Speed. 



of the ''Meteor'' as She Passed 



wonderful Summer attraction to the people 
of these less fortunate places. Consequently, 
it has only been in the last few years that 
motor boating on Puget Sound has gained 
many followers as a Summer pastime. Of 
late the pursuit of pleasure has supple- 
mented to a large extent the pursuit of the 
almighty dollar — the successful progress of 
the latter effort making the former pos- 
sible — and water sports are beginning to re- 
ceive 'a large degree of long merited atten- 
tion. The fleet of pleasure launches has 
become a pretentious one, and many hand- 
some new boats are being added each year. 
The fleet of speed boats, while not large, is 
nevertheless one worthy of consideration, as 
it contains crafts that challenge the world 
for speed, and travel through the water like 
an express train. And competitive speed is 
becoming such a factor that the fleet of fast 
boats promises in a short time to become one 
of considerable proportions. 

It is quite a pretty sight to see these 
grown-up people of the city at their play. 
Go down on the Seattle waterfront any 
bright Summer morning — and most of the 
Summer mornings are bright. The breeze 
wafts down over the distant mountain heights 
and gathers added freshness and vivacity 



from the cool salt waters of the bay. The 
sun fiiSods over the surface of sparkling 
waters tu.it seem to beckon and entice one 
to embark on their blue expanses. If you 
have n't a boat already, you are filled with 
a sudden desire to rent one and with an ex- 
cusable envy for the fortunate possessors. 
If you are in the latter class, one look at 
the water on such a morning is enough to 
make you forget the iniquities of the System 
and commence further contribution to its 
coffers forthwith by the burning of much 
gasoline. Nor will you be lonely, for scores 
of other fine launches are already chugging 
off across the brine, and scores more are 
casting loose tL« hawsers. In fact, it is 
quite a sight of i Sunday morning to see 
the pleasure-seekei's speed away in their 
handsome motor-boats for "realms un- 
known." The bay is fairly dotted with the 
launches outward bound and the air is so 
pregnant with gasoline explosions that it 
sounds like an Oriental New Year's. Hand- 
some sailing yachts with snowy canvas mingle 
with the swifter motor-boats and the num- 
ber increases until it looks as though half 
the city were off to make a day of it. But 
off Magnolia lighthouse, West Seattle and 
Alki Point, they go their respective ways. 



116 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




The Speed Boat "Comet," the Fastest on Puget Sound, and Present Holddr of the Furth 

Challenge Cup. 



some down-Sound toward the Straits, some 
up-Sound toward Taeoma and Olympia, and 
others across to the channels and narrows 
among the islands. All day long they cruise, 
in waters qu'te as charming as Stevenson's 
Southern Seas, rounding island after island 
only to come upon new vistas of blue seas 
and inlets. All day long that old monarch 
of Puget Sound, Mount Rainier, looks down 
across the waters from its throne among the 
snow-crested Cascades, and Mount Baker 
shines in distant glory a hundred miles to 
the north, while the Olympics form a ma- 
jestic framing for the resplendent sett ng of 
the sun as it sinks into the infinite Pacific 
beyond the peninsula. 

It seems a shame to think of such a ma- 
terial thing as lunch in such a country, 
doesn't it? And yet, the salt air gives one 




The Fast Motor Boat "Siwash," Belonging to 
Colonel Papst, of Taeoma. Speed Twenty 
Miles an Hour. 



the appetite of a bear who 's been hibernat- 
ing, and when the sun swings near the zenith 
one is inclined to descend to earth and prose 
and express his most inward emotions in 
the unpoetic and soulless language, "Let 's 
eat." Most of the fine pleasure cruisers of 
the Sound have "all the modern conven- 
iences," as the real estate man would put it. 
If. the party is so inclined, lunch can be 
served aboard the boat in regular trans- 
oceanic grand saloon style. There are pan- 
tries, kitchen, dining-room and banquet 
board, and a cook and servant aboard to do 
the "honors". But if you have any picnic 
spirit about you, you wont want to eat that 
way. You can do that at home, at the restau- 
rant, at the boarding-house, any old place. 
If you are out for the day and want to make 
the best of it, there is nothing for it but 
that the boat must be landed on the sandy 
beach of one of the hundred delightful little 
coves along the shore of the Sound. In a 
jiffy all are over the gang-plank on terra- 
firma, and coffee is sizzling on a hot fire 
made from the ample driftwood to be found 
all along the shore, and the lunch is served 
in true picnic, out-of-door fashion. And 
the common, quondam tasteless and unin- 
viting "vituls" that ordinarily would go un- 
tasted and a-begging, have suddenly become 
as the viands on a king's table, while the 
coffee, served in a style properly dignified 
as "a large black," is the nectar that Jupiter 
sips. And now, Mr. Man, comes the real 
test, and let us hope that you prove a true 
sport and produce your aged old pipe and a 
sack of Mail Pouch instead of digging down 



MOTOR BOATING ON PUGKT SOUND. 



117 



uto your pocket lor an outlawed 
clear Havana and polluting the pure salt 
air with ineongruo -moke. Cigars 

are incompatible with picnics ami are only 
allowed when you stay in the launch and 
dine in the grand saloon. The proper pro- 
cedure is a briar and tobacco smoked tram 
an incumbent position on a log, while the 
host or his engineer is. snaking the engine 
and making ready to resume the trip. Then 
it's all aboard again and mm- . more 

ami channels and islands, and Anally a 
run home across the Sound and into 
the harbor with the million lights nf tl • 
glimmering down over the waters from the 
seven hills and the full moon overhead stir- 
ring the passengers to sentimental melodies. 

And all this in a day; the only recji. 
being that you live on Puget Sound, own a 
motor-boat or a friend with a motor-boat and 
have unlimited credit for gasoline. 

The doughty motor-boat sportsmen of 
Ptaget Sound do not confine their scope by 
any means to one-day trips, however. They 
have spent thousands of dollars in outfitting 



handsome pleasure cruisers with all the 
anodationa and aqnipmanl in miniature 
of luxurious steam yachts. These boats are 
capable of carrying fair sized parties on ex- 
tended cruises lasting all Summer long if 
necessary, and few are the owners of these 
boat! who do nut once or twice in the Sum- 
mer, at least, cruise the entire Sound from 
Hoods Canal and Otympia to the San Juan 
Islands and Hellingham Bay, spending weeks 
at a time on the water witli little necessity 
for landing during the entire trip. Indeed, 
cruises have been made in these boats up the 
coast by the inner passage to Southeastern 
Alaska, but this is not often attempted, ow- 
ing to the risk that must be encountered in 
crossing certain rough and dangerous waters, 
tranquil and safe a part of the time, hut 
with a little wind, becoming wild passages 
more dangerous to small craft than the mid- 
ocean. The trip is often made across to Vic- 
toria, for while the Straits of .Inan de Fuca 
become very rough on occasions, yet on a 
calm Summer morning when the sky is clear 
there is small danger that a storm will blow 







118 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




The "Mercury," the Twenty-two-Foot Wonder, at One Time Champion Speed Boat of the 
World; Now Owned by Roderick Macleay, of Portland, Oregon. 



up before the' crossing is made. With the 
late afternoon a strong breeze almost in- 
variably blows in from the sea and those 
waters become rough and choppy. 

There is ample room for the burning of 
plenty of gasoline on Puget Sound alone 
without venturing to any of these out- 
side waters. Pleasure boats can cruise 
for a month without beginning to see 
everything, for the Sound proper is 
many scores of miles long, approximately 
a hundred, and has channels and inlets 
running dozens of miles inland and 
around the many islands. Hoods Canal, for 
instance, joining the main body of water be- 
low Port Townsend, runs back for sixty 
miles or more, right almost at the base of 
the Olympic mountain range, and washing 
shores as wild and primeval as when they 
were first created. Another favorite cruise 
is up among the San Juan Islands at the 
eastern end of the Juan de Fuca Straits. 
Here is one of the most beautiful water trips 
in the world, unexcelled by any parts of the 
Mediterranean or the Thousand Islands of 
the St. Lawrence. Each island is a mountain 
all by itself, rising apparently sheer from 
the water's edge, but really sloping back 
gradually, and with lands for miles back 
from the shores rich in agricultural and 
fruit-raising possibilities. There are many 



of these picturesque island-mountains, sep- 
arated by beautiful sheets of sheltered 
water ideal for motor-boat cruising purposes. 
A cruising party can lose themselves from 
the world in these waters for weeks at a 
time, making new explorations every day 
and still leaving much to be seen. And the 
waters surrounding the San Juan Islands 
comprise only a small part of Puget Sound. 
For sumptuous furnishings, complete 
equipment and modern facilities these pleas- 
ure-cruisers of Puget Sound are not to be 
excelled, in the same scale, in the world. 
They have every convenience of the large 
steam yachts of the Atlantic, including for- 
ward and after-decks, men's and ladies' cab- 
ins, sleeping compartments, galleys, engine 
rooms, lavatories, pantries, and many other 
desirable features. Consider the cruiser 
Kipling for instance. This boat is owned by 
F. H. Boynton, of Seattle. She is sixty 
feet long with an eight and one-half-foot 
beam and a twenty-five-horsepower engine. 
The boat makes an average speed when on a 
cruise of twelve miles an hour. The boat is 
handsomely finished with hard woods and 
heavily upholstered throughout. She has a 
forward cabin, ladies' cabin, engine room 
and galley, bath room, toilet and lavatories, 
etc., and carries gasoline storage for an 
eight-hundred-mile cruise. The boat was 



MOTOR BOATING ON I'l ill T BOUND. 



Hit 



built under the special directions of her own- 
er and the fMollln is carried in the extreme 
stern in specially lested heavy tanks, behind 
a tight bulkhead. The gasoline is piped out- 
side and along the keel of the boat under 
water to the engine roots, so that there is 
virtually no danger from fire. The entire 
length of the deck is utilized, there being, in 
addition to the main deck, a forward and 
after-deck on a different elevation. The boat 
is a very handsome one and wins admiration 
everywhere she goes. 

The Ilvilo is another very handsome pleas- 
ure-cruiser and is owned by Charles E. 
Crane, of Seattle. She is fifty-eight feet 
in length with a beam of eleven feet and 
four inches, and is equipped with a forty- 
horsepower engine for power, a two-horse- 
power engine for furnishing electric lights 
and another engine of the same horsepower 
in her tender. The boat has sleeping com- 
partments for twelve people, is lighted with 
electricity, has pantries, toilets, compressed 
air and water tanks, and sufficient gasoline 
storage to take the boat on a trip of eighteen 
hundred miles without replenishing the sup- 
ply. This boat makes an average speed of 
twelve miles an hour. She has traveled with 
a party for a month at a time, and on these 
trips has a regular engineer and a cook to 
make up her crew, leaving the balance of 
those On board free to enjoy themselves dur- 
ing every hour of the outing. 

One of the finest boats which is being built 
this year for cruising purposes is the Sans 
Souci, owned by Ferdinand Smith, of Seattle. 
This boat is fifty feet long and is constructed 
of the handsomest woods obtainable, and 
when complete will be one of the finest 
pleasure launches ever built. She will be 
fitted out with electric lights, sleeping com- 
partments, and the other conveniences usual 
with handsome pleasure boats of her type, 
and will carry a thirty-two-horsepower en- 
gine, which will give her a speed of about 
twelve miles an hour. 

These are only a few of the many pleas- 
ure-cruisers of Pnget Sound, and there are 
others worthy of fuller mention if the space 
allowed, such as the Spray, owned by 
Henry Ilensel ; the Sea Gull, by J. M. Cun- 
ningham; the Clyde, by A. A. Schuschard, 
and others. Of these mentioned, the Spray 
and the Clyde are new boats. The Sea Gull 
has been in the water for several years and 




Arete." Second Fattest Boat on Puget 
Sound. Speed Twenty-eight Miles an Hour. 



is one of the best known cruisers on the 
Sound, her owner having sailed her on long 
cruises to all parts of those waters. She is 
fitted out in handsome style and has all the 
conveniences of the pleasure-cruiser. 

While there is no organization devoted ex- 
clusively to the interests of the motor-boat 
cruiser owners, the Elliot Bay Yacht Club 
■ Tined a motor-boat section of its or- 
ganization and has at the present time six- 
teen launch-owners included in the member- 
ship of sixty-four. These motor-boats will 
participate in the regular cruises and re- 
gattas of the club, and it is likely that this 
branch of the organization will become as 
active and enthusiastic as the section com- 
posed of the owners of sailing and auxiliary 
yachts. 

On Lake Washington, however — which is 
virtually Puget Sound, as it will soon be 
connected with the larger body by a ship 
canal and is already connected by partly 
navigable rivers — is a regular motor-boat 
club. Lake Washington is only twenty min- 
utes' ride from the main business streets of 
Seattle and is entirely as convenient and 
accessible for the owners of motor-boats as 




Cruiser •■lloilo.' 



Belonging to Charles R. Crane, 
of Seattle. 



120 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



Puget Sound. The Motor-Boat Club of Lake 
Washington has over one hundred members, 
all enthusiastic devotees of the sport of 
motor-boating. This club has regular speed 
regattas twice a year, on January 1 and July 
4, and these have become very popular and 
have attracted wide attention all over the 
country, owing to the fine type of speed 
boats that have been developed and to the 
speed records which have been made. The 
purpose of this organization is to encourage 
the building of motor-boats, the develop- 
ment of speed and later on, when the canal 
is open, to form cruising regattas on Puget 
Sound. The Mid-Winter regattas are fea- 
tures which are decided novelties, and an 
article concerning the 1907 regatta, appear- 
ing in one of the large Eastern motor-boat 
publications, was the cause of discussion all 
through the United States, the officers of the 
club receiving many inquiries as to whether 
it was a fact or merely a fairy tale that re- 
gattas were held in the middle of the Winter 
on a fresh-water lake, especially at a point 
as far north as Seattle. It seemed to be 
a cause for wonder that there should be 
enough open water on a fresh-water lake 
at that season of the year to allow of such 
a thing, and the further surprise of the 
authors of these inquiries can be imagined 
when they were informed that there is n't 
enough ice on Lake Washington the whole 
year around to cool a cocktail. Many of the 
members of this club live across the lake 
from the city and travel back and forth from 
business in their boats at all seasons. 

The fastest speed motor-boat on the lake 
and in the entire Puget Sound country at the 
present time is the Comet, owned by the 
Washington Motor-Boat Company. This 
boat was built by Leighton, the builder of 
the celebrated Chip and Chip II, the boats 
which won the world's championship at the 
Thousand Islands on the St. Lawrence River 
in 1905 and 1906. The Comet is a twenty- 
four-mile boat, and is a fine type of the 
fast pleasure and speed boat. She is the. 
winner of the Jacob Furth five-hundred-dol- 
lar perpetual challenge cup, and has yet to 
meet her better on the Pacific Coast. She is 
open to challenges from any speed boat in 
the United States. The Comet is thirty-three 
feet long with a beam of five feet six inches. 

The Areis, owned by the same company as 
the Comet, is at present secondary in speed 



to the later boat, but is being equipped with 
a new six-cylinder five-and-a-half by six en- 
gine that it is believed will make her the 
fastest boat on Puget Sound and on the Pa- 
cific Coast. Her owners expect to develop 
a speed of twenty-eight miles an hour. At 
present her speed is twenty-three. She is 
one of the fastest types of boats built, her 
entire hull weighing only three hundred and 
one pounds on the scales, and yet being as 
stanch and firm as the ordinary boat with 
three-fourths inch planking. She is planked 
with three-eighths inch cedar. The Areis is 
the winner of the L. L. Moore Grand Chal- 
lenge Cup, 1906, for boats faster than fif- 
teen miles an hour, and also winner of the 
First Prize Cup of the Motor-Boat Club of 
Seattle for the ten-mile race. 

One of the finest types of speed boats on 
the lake is the Meteor, owned by Clarence H. 
Jones, of Seattle. This boat develops a 
speed of eighteen miles an hour and is voted 
by most boat-owners on Lake Washington 
to be as handsome and swift a fast pleasure- 
boat to be found in those waters. The 
Meteor is forty feet long with five-foot beam, 
and is equipped with a four-cylinder engine 
of the make-and-break ignition system. She 
has two cockpits, with the engine room for- 
ward, separated by a bridged deck. The 
passenger cockpit aft is capable of carrying 
twenty-five people. The Meteor is the win- 
ner of the sixteen-mile race at the 1906 
Labor Day regatta. 

Another boat which has been famous on 
Lake Washington for some time is the Mer- 
cury, which has recently been sold to Roder- 
ick Maeleay, of Portland, Oregon, and is 
now on the Willamette. This boat is only 
twenty-two feet long and is equipped with a 
ten-horsepower engine that sends her 
through the water with the speed of an ex- 
press train. This boat was also built by 
Leighton and was the craft that tieat the 
Chip after her sensational winning of the 
world's championship at the Thousand 
Islands in 1905. The Mercury was the fast- 
est boat in the world at that time. She made 
a sensation when she was first brought to 
Lake Washington because of her small size 
and her great speed, and many people, not 
knowing her past record, predicted that she 
would prove impractical as a speed boat, but 
they revised their opinions after seeing her 
take one or two turns around the lake. 



.MOTOR BOATING ON PUGET SOUND. 



121 




Handsome Pleoture 



Probably tba most famous boat on the 

take and one which held all newcomers at 

•veral years, and is even now the 

strictly pleasure boat on Puget 

Sound, is V. H. Faben's Dolphin. This boat 

is forty-live feet long and has an eight ancl 

a half-foot beam. She is equipped with n 

i'ti -hy-nine engine, which is 

capable of developing unusual speed in the 

boat. 

A type of boat intended entirely for 
roughing it on the salt water is one that is 
springing into demand at the present time on 
ri'i An exemplary boat of 
this type is being constructed at the present 
time by Dr. S. B. Milne, of Seattle, who is 
a typical motor boat skipper and has seen 
as much of real cruising and the full enjoy- 
ment of the sport as any man on Puget 
1. Once or twice a year Dr. Milne takes 
a party of friends and goes on a long hunt- 
ing and cruising trip far up into the Cana- 
dian coast waters between Vancouver Island 
and the mainland. 

While this trip is fraught with danger for 
even the large-sized ■ pleasure-cruisers, Dr. 
Milne has taken the trip several times in his 
former little launch, the Zebra, thirty feet 
ind equipped with a ten-horsepower en- 
trine, an open boat without any cabin and 
only an improvised shelter. The party has 
been lucky enouch to escape without any 
:ind with onlv one storm, which 



caught the heavily-laden boa) ai it was going 
northward about ten miles from shore in the 
(iulf of Georgia, and tossed it about in 
waves monntain-high for several hours. Luck- 
ily the little engine plodded along steadily 
and those aboard were able to keep the 
launch running with the waves until the 
storm suhsided, and the boat was able to 
continue its trip peaceably on up the Cana- 
dian coast, where the party was going after 
deer and big game. Dr. Milne has sold his 
launch Zebra, however, and is now engaged 
in building a launch thirty-five feet long, 
equipped with a heavy engine. This boat is 
built along lines very similar to that of a 
salmon fisherman's boat, heavy and stanch 
and safe, although not quite as bulky end 
clumsy as the craft used by the fishermen. 
and having very pretty lines. 

As the Puget Sound country becomes more 
settled, as her citizens become more wealthy 
and more numerous, and have more leisure, 
the pastime of motor-boating on that great 
and beautiful body of water promises to be- 
come much more extensive and more famou?. 
and ten years from now we should hear qni'e 
as much about the great regattas, the speed 
records smashed and the world's champion- 
ship races won on Pnge4 Sound as we ■ 
the present time of the Thousand [aland* 
of the St. I.awrenee and other famous ren- 
dezvous for the swift motor-boats of tin- 
world 



A Defense of Style 



By Porter Garnett 




EE ! that 's . a bully story !" 
By some such expression as 
this a small boy might be 
expected to signify his ap- 
proval of a tale of Indians 
which he had just read in a 
third-class magazine. It goes without say- 
ing that no one would take such an indorse- 
ment as an expression of literary judgment. 
And yet it is by a process similar to that 
of the small boy that most people judge liter- 
ature, or, at least, fiction. 

I have been charged repeatedly, by letter 
and by word of mouth, with laying too 
much stress in these essays upon style, too 
little upon material ; I am moved, therefore, 
to say something in defense of my attitude. 
That, in the eyes of the public, the subject 
is more important than the form — the mat- 
ter than the manner — is a fact almost too 
obvious to be mentioned. In other words, 
disproportionate valuations have been 
placed upon the two major factors of liter- 
ary expression. These factors are Material — 
the subject and psychological content there- 
of — and Treatment— the form, or arrange- 
ment, and style. A sense of proportion is 
one of the rarest endowments of the human 
mind, productive or receptive, and thus we 
have become so accustomed to the dispropor- 
tionate valuations of Material . and Treat- 
ment that any attempt to readjust these val- 
uations by insisting upon the importance of 
the latter neglected factor is regarded as 
false criticism. Not alone is this lack of a 
sense of proportion found among the public, 
but it is also found among writers, whose 
purpose it is to cater to the public, and 
among book-reviewers, whose function it is 
to judge of literature by the public's stand- 
ards. 

In any discussion on the subject of criti- 
cism it is necessary to recognize at once the 
two forms of criticism, the academic and the 
impressionistic. These may be defined a? 
the criticism from law and the criticism from 



feeling. Both are, or should be, analytic 
processes. An extreme type of academic 
criticism is to be found in the student's 
thesis for a literary degree and in most 
pedagogues' lectures on literature, which are 
commonly narrow and generally futile. An 
example of this sort of criticism is reviewed 
in a recent number of the Nation. The work 
under consideration is Tennyson's Sprache 
und Stil, by Dr. Phil. Roman Dyboski, Band 
25 of Wiener Beitrage zur englischen Philol- 
ogie. "Dr. Dyboski," says the review, 
"plunges into Syntaktisches and considers 
the two ways of joining clauses — by sub- 
ordination and coordination. He discovers 
that Tennyson uses 'and,' 'or,' 'nor,' and 
'but' where other connectives might in Dr. 
Dyboski's opinion be more precise." An ex- 
ample of the doctor's illuminating analysis 
is as follows: 

Balin the stillness of a minute broke, say- 
ing (d. h.: Balin was still for a minute, then 
said). 

And of such is the academic criticism, 
pure and complex. 

An extreme type of the impressionistic 
criticism may be found on the literary page 
of some daily papers, particularly in reviews 
written by women — the critical sense being 
one of the four mental attributes which a 
divine Providence lias denied the human fe- 
male. (I shall not mention the other three 
for fear of incurring more enmity than 1 
am already exposed to in my hazardous pro- 
fession.) An example of this sort of criti- 
cism should run about as follows: 

The "Flatulence of Adam Saunders" by 
Gazelle and Fortescue Snipp is one of tho 
notable books of the year. * * * The 
reader is carried breathlessly from one thrill- 
ing incident to another. * * * The story 
abounds in dramatic scenes of great power, 
interspersed with vivid descriptions, whole- 
some sentiment and delightful humor. » » • 
There is not a dull page in the book, etc., etc. 

Clearly the thing for the critic to do is to 



A DEFKNSK OF M'YLE. 



123 



steer a mean course (no pun is intended^ 
between the academic Sylla and the unpr. - 
sionistic Charybdis. That is to say, the 
ideal attitude of criticism is one which em- 
bodies both styles. Impressionistic criticism 
without an academic basis is as valueless 
as the opinion of the small boy who ex- 
claims, "Gee ! that 's a bully story !" while 
the academic method without the saving 
frrace of human sympathy .is no whit 
better. Spenser's use of the present 
participle in The Faerie, Queen is pre- 
ss unimportant as the statement 
that there is the scent of bilge water 
in Oban Hill Stubblefield's matchless tales 
of the sea. 

The bulk of the criticism which reaches 
the public through the medium of the press 
is impressionistic when it is not perfunctory; 
it exaggerates the importance of Material 
and either slights or ignores the question of 
Treatment. It becomes necessary therefore 
to remind the public occasionally that liter- 
ature is an art; that there is really some- 
thing more to it than the subject matter. 
But critical essays and articles competently 
written and dealing with literature as an 
art are usually to be found in the more 
sedate reviews and therefore do not reach 
the public, which continues to say: "Gee! 
that 's a bully story !" when it is thrilled or 
amused, and dismisses works of real literary- 
quality, but deficient in human interest, with 
the final if inelegant epithet "rotten". For 
example, there has been produced recently 
in the West a book that is not only strictly 
literary in character, but of a high order 
of literary excellence — this is The Flock by 
Mary Austin. And yet I have heard people 
of intelligence say that they could not read 
it, that it bored them; that, in short, it was 
"rotten". This simply means that people of 
intelligence, to say nothing of the polloi, do 
not care for literature unless combined with 
human interest — the transcript of action and 
the record of emotion. They get no esthetic 
stimulation nor delight from reading Mrs. 
Austin's beautiful prose; to them The flock 
is nothing more than a dull treatise on an 
uninteresting subject. 

Now the quality that gives The Flock its 
importance is not the factor of Material, but 
the factor of Treatment. It is an achieve- 
ment in style, and as such it must be 
judged. And here we have the crux of criti- 



cism. Style cannot be judged by either the 
academic or the impressionistic method. 
Style can be judged only by the critic's own 
conception of the elements of style which. 
as I have said elsewhere, is a leaven made 
up of varying proportions of beauty, bal- 
ance, dignity, delicacy, reserve, rhythm, and, 
above all, and through all. taste. Here en- 
ters the personal equation. In criticism by 
the academic method there is no personal 
equation. The laws of grammar and syntax 
are to a great degree fixed laws and the 
academic critic is quite within the realm of 
the obsolute in applying them to literary ex- 
pression. When, however, he treats of style 
his criticism becomes a matter of personal 
opinion for he can speak of style, which is 
not a matter of law, only as he understands 
it. Our critic may react to De Quincy or 
Pater, as the case may be, or he may be 
possessed of the catholicity to appreciate 
both. 

The demand for matter and the indiffer- 
ence to form, the insistance upon heart-in- 
terest and the slighting of literary quality, 
which expresses the attitude of the public 
toward literature, is an attitude that must 
always exist, however much it may be de- 
plored. It is an appetite that must be fed. 
It would hardly do to deprive the public, by 
a national board of censors, of books that 
did not possess literary quality. As well de- 
prive the public of popular music and popu- 
lar art. The error lies in classing books of 
the popular sort as literature and expecting 
them to be judged as such. Errors of a simi- 
lar kind are not commonly made regarding 
the .other arts. A more or less definite dis- 
tinction is recognized between the higher and 
lower forms of music; between the higher 
and lower forms of painting, the graphic 
arts and sculpture. But such a dividing 
line is drawn between the hiirher and lower 
forms of literature by comparatively few 
persons. 

It is this failure to recognize the differ- 
ence between story writing and literature 
that is one of the chief causes for tl 
proportionate valuation of subject and form. 
As far as the public is concerned literature 
consists of everything of a creative charac- 
ter that is produced in print from an essay 
by Henry James or a poem by Swinbourne 
to a story in the Black Cat or one of George 
Ade's clever fables. The worth or unworth 



124 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



of every item in this great mass of verbal 
expression is measured by the interest it ex- 
cites, by its appeal to the emotions, and 
absolutely without regard to its esthetic 
value. 

But to continue the comparison of the 
art of literature with the arts of music and 
painting. I have said that the public recog- 
nizes the difference, in a general way, be- 
tween popular music and music of the higher 
order — between Waltz Me Around Again, 
Willie, and a "real classical piece". Musicians 
not only make this distinction clearly, but 
they go still farther and in the higher order 
of music distinguish between absolute music 
and descriptive, illustrative, or programme 
music. Thus we find musicians who uphold 
the absolute music of Bach, Hayden, Mozart 
and their congeners, and place all modern 
music, including the music of Wagner, in a 
lower scale; even classing it as decadent be- 
cause it falls away from the absolute stand- 
ards of music for music's sake. Again the 
public recognizes the difference, in a general 
way, between illustration and painting while 
the painter often goes farther yet and di- 
vides painting into absolute painting and 
painting that is illustrative in character and 
therefore not the expression of absolute art. 
For example, take the Maternity of Carriere, 
the picture of a mother k ssing one child 
while she embraces another. This painting 
is a marvel of technic and psychological sug- 
gestion; but let us suppose that instead of 
the portrait of Carriere himself which is 
seen in the background there should be the 
figure of a soldier waiting to tear the mother 
from her babes and lead her to the guillo- 
tine; and let us suppose that the picture is 
called The Last Kiss; at once it ceases to be 
a work of absolute art. It may still be a 
miracle of technic, but the psychological ele- 
ment is debased to a direct emotional appeal. 

The artist adhering strictly to the abso- 
lute in painting will not tolerate the story- 
telling picture except as a lower order of 
art. So the musician adhering to the abso- 
lute in music will not tolerate the story- 
telling composition except as a lower order 
of music. 

Now while such distinctions in painting 
and music are perfectly understood by many 
painters and musicians, in literature not only 
does the public fail to make an analagous 
distinction, but writers themselves, with few 



exceptions, fail so to do. That is, they do 
not recognize an absolute literature. They 
do not recognize the fact that fiction is not 
and cannot be absolute literature as the nar- 
rative poem is not absolute poetry, the illus- 
tration or illustrative painting is not absolute 
art, the descriptive composition is not abso- 
lute music and the Rodgers groups are not 
absolute sculpture. 

But the public not only fails to make the 
distinction between fiction and absolute liter- 
ature, it regards everything of a creative 
character which is found in magazines or be- 
tween book covers as literature. The bulk of 
this is fiction, most of which appeals directly 
to the sympathies and passions, and it is the 
most natural thing in the world that from 
such a condition should grow the exagger- 
ated importance that is given to the Material 
and the consequently slight attention that is 
paid to Treatment. There can be no doubt 
that the disproportion is greater today than 
it ever has been in the history of the world, 
that it is greater in America than in any 
other country, and that it is greater in the 
West than in the East. 

It might not be so bad if there were a few 
more' stylists, who, by their influence, might 
establish a new parity in public taste. The 
present parity may be likened to the sixteen 
to one of the double standard advocates — 
the sixteen representing Material and the one 
Treatment. In this connection it is perfectly 
proper to remark that the Material may be 
likened to silver and the Treatment to gold, 
nor would it be inapposite to say that the 
advocates of the sixteen to one ratio are the 
Populists of literature. For my part, 1 
should like to see a gold standard — a style 
standard — established in the Republic of 
Letters. 

But stylists, the aristocrats of literature, 
are few and far between, and when cne 
arises, like Mary Austin for example, the 
bourgeois Populists will have none of her. 

And thus it has come to pass the public, 
a large number of writers, and the great ma- 
jority of book reviewers have established 
false standards of taste so firmly that the 
charge of false criticism is immediately made 
against any attempt to readjust the equilib- 
rium. 

It is true that in considering the current 
literature of the West I have commented at 
some length upon the graces and refinements 



A DEFENSE OF STYLE. 



125 



nf literal. isually eonapieuoiu by 

t heir absence. 'I'liat this should give the im- 
pression of an undue emphasis on one side 
of the que- ,rfectly natural, because 

the emphasis is on the side that is commonly 

.1 for the reasons above mm (nth. Be- 
cause I have enlarged on this neglected 
phase — an unusual tliinjr to do 
seems to have been lost sight of that 1 have 

uitly kept in view the human and 

• i logical aspects of literature. I have 
: again and again the importance of 

ousness which underl'es life and which 
the writer, if he be an artist, should inter- 
pret in a manner simple or complex as his 
ideals dictate, but touched by the magic of 
art. The work of Frank rTarria is typical 
of the simple manner of interpreting 
consciousness, that of George Meredith of 
the complex. In both cases, though 
differing widely, the results are thorou ghl y 
artistic. 

While Material— the subject and the 
logical content thereof — is, as I said 
at the beginning of this art ele, one of the 
of literary expression, can it 
be denied for a moment that it is the way in 
which the Material is presented, in other 
words the Treatment — the form, or arrange- 
ment and style — that goes to make the work 
of art. Give a clever newspaperman the 
plot of one of Maupassant's tales and tell 
him to put it into story form. The result 
would not be a work of art. With two men 
using precisely the same material, what is it 
that makes the work of one vastly superior 
to that of the otherf If the material were 
_reat importance as some would 
have us believe, how could such discrep- 

- be accounted forT There is but one 
way out of the difficulty and that is to adm't 
that it is the facti r of Treatment and not 
the factor of Material that constitutes volue 
in literature. If this were not true the mere 
expression of ideas in written «• 
forming of tonne to the simple rules of 
grammar— would constitute literature. The 

il application of this view wi nhl mean 
that spoken words— conforming to the simple 
rules of jrrammar — if transferred to paper 
would bee .me literature. We all relate ex- 
. day. but it could not be 
claimed that a transcript would 

be literature. The letters that thousands of 
educated end clever people write are not 



literature. 1 have heard men tell stories at 
clubs with great effect, but they could not 
write a paragraph that would have literary 
quality. I have heard a man talk fluently on 
a subject with no thought of literary re- 
quirements, and then dictate to a stenog- 
rapher on the same subject in an entirely 
different manner, casting bja ideas in tit) 
form and producing matter that was literary 
in character. 

I have before me now a rare little volume 
entitled A Genuine N ar rativ e of the Deplor- 
able Deaths of the English Gentlemen, and 
Others, Whii Were Suffocated in the Black 
Hole in . Eort William, at Calcutta, in the 
Kingdom of Bengal; in the Night Succeed- 
ing the 20th Day of /mm, 175$, by J. /.. 
Holwell, Fsq. It is written with clarity in 
excellent Kngl'sh: it is in every way better 
than anything to be found in our newspa 
pers. It has not, however, style nor literary 
quality. But the author differs from many 
writers of less ability, for he says in his 
preface: "For truth, and more especially so 
affecting a truth, stands little in need of 
ornament, and appears to more advantage 
the less it is assisted by the arts of wr tinj:. 
to which the author being a stranger, he 
trusted to his feeling, and endeavored to 
express by his pen the emotions of his 
heart." Mr. Hoi well's book is an ad- 
mirable account of a terrible episode, but 
in writing it he did not produce litera- 
ture and he had the rare good sense to 
know it. 

The man who can describe a thing with 
absolute accuracy makes a good reporter, 
but with that accomplishment alone he can- 
not atta n to the rank of a literary artist. 1 1 
■ man have only the qualifications of a good 
reporter, does it really make any difference 
whether the thingi be writes about really 
occurred or whether they are the invention 
of his fancy? If the faculty of invention is 
a test of the literary instinct, it would follow 
that every liar is a potential author. Aj I 
matter of fact it is only the artistic liar that 
can lay claim to that distinction. The point 
I wish to make is that a great deal of what 
.ng into books and magaz nes and which 
is being accepted as literature, is nothing 
more than the repnrtorial work of unlilerary 
scribblers who report their experiences, re- 
their fancy and report their emotions. 
They are nothing more nor less than a lot 



126 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



of persons with the gift of the gab and a 
typewriter. 

It is in his character as an artist that the 
creator of literature excells the mere reporter 
of fact or fancy. The artist arranges his 
material; that is, he brings to it light and 
shade, color, accent and repression or, in 
other words, form and style; and by such 
means he forges from the raw material the 
work of art. But this is Treatment without 
which Material — raw Material — is worthless. 
Your morning paper is full of raw material 
every day; an artist of the stature of 
Tourgueneff may be born once in fifty years. 
And yet it is this essential element or Treat- 
ment, that is to say, form and style, that I 
have been accused of giving too much im- 
portance. 

But I have at no time neglected and shall 




not neglect now to insist upon the impor- 
tance of another phase of literary expres- 
sion, namely, the interpretation of conscious- 
ness. While such interpretation is a part of 
the author's art — a matter of Treatment — 
the psychological content of his work is a 
part of the Material. Take, for example, 
some simple episode, so much raw material, 
treat it superficially, in other words, report 
it, and it has no literary value. But bring 
out the psychological basis underlying the 
episode and it becomes at once matter for 
literary treatment. Relate the episode, inter- 
pret the psychological basis underlying it, by 
means of artistic processes and a work of 
art results. 

Now let us consider the man that writes 
not as a reporter nor as a stylist, but 
as an interpreter of psychology and con- 



sciousness, for it is by that function 
that the value of his material must 
be tested. 

The accompanying diagram will help to 
explain the observations which follow: 

The sphere A represents an artistic per- 
sonality; the plane 1, the external aspects 
of life in our own time; la, lb and la, the 
substrata of consciousness underlying life 
as it exists today; plane 2 represents the 
surface aspects of life at a period antedating 
the present; 2a, 26 and 2c, substrata of con- 
sciousness underlying life at the same 
period; plane 3 represents a period more 
remote and so on. It will be observed that 
the planes become narrower as they go far- 
ther back, for our purview of life in the 
past is not so great as in the present. In 
this diagram the focus of the artistic per- 
sonality A is on plane 1, which represents 
the surface aspects of life as we observe it. 
It is at this focus that the reporter and the 
superficial story writer depict life. An- 
other, with more insight, will focus upon the 
first substratum of consciousness, still an- 
other on the second and so on. The dotted 
circle d represents an artistic personality 
which focuses on the third substratum of 
consciousness, the external aspects of life 
being out of focus. The author whose focus 
is on the deeper levels of consciousness re- 
ceives, however, connotations from all the 
strata through which the rays of his person- 
ality pass. Henry James is an example of 
a writer whose focus is on the deeper levels 
of consciousness. With him it is not the 
first meaning that we look for, nor the sec- 
ond meaning, but the third and fourth 
meanings. 

In the case of a writer treating of the 
past, his focus may be on the surface 
aspects of life in a remote period, or it 
may be on the underlying strata of con- 
sciousness. Whether he be novelist or his- 
torian, it is his focus which determines 
whether he is a mere reporter, or an inter- 
preter, an artist. 

The shaded portions of the diagram marked 
XX represent the realm of mystery and the 
imagination, which, like the infra-red and 
ultra-violet rays of the spectrum, are in- 
visible to the normal eye. It is in the depths 
of these regions that the poet's artistic per- 
sonality is focused (see dotted circle c in dia- 
gram) gaining his connotations from life 



A DEFENSE OE STYLE. 



127 



as the rays of his intellect pass through its 
various strata. 

There is still another matter that this ap- 
parently fantastic method of demonstration 
will serve to illustrate; that is the question 
of poise. The true artist has control of his 
focus while the pseudo-artist has not The 
latter may pass from the treatment of ex- 
Is to the sub literal aspects of his sub- 
ject, but such fluctuations of focus are large- 
ly a matter of accident and the work that 
results lacks unity and value. On the other 
hand the artistic personality of Zola, for 
example, as expressed in Le Bonheur des 
Dames, is focused on the external aspects of 
life and in this as in many of his other 
works he is no more than the competent 
journalist. But in Le Rive bis artistic per- 
sonality expands until its focus not only 
reaches the depths of consciousness, but wan- 
ders into the domain of poetry. Give the 
plot of Le Rive to the clever reporter or the 
successful story writer of our magazines and 
tell him to develop it into a novel. With his 
«'ii the superficies of life; without the 
artist's feeling for form, for light and shf.de, 
color, accent and repression: without the 
magic of style, that leaven made up of vary- 
ing proportions of bebuty. balance, dignity, 
delicacy, reserve, rhythm, and. above all, 
and through all, taste, can the result be other 
than worthless as art? As worthless, for ex- 



ample, as the reporter's "stuff" or the maga- 
zine writer's story. 

The defense rests its case. 

I have read recently four books by West- 
ern authors. They are: Whispering Smith, 
by Frank Spearman (Charles Scribner's 
Sons) ; Tin l'lmc Woman, by Eleanor Gates 
(MeClnn, 1'hillips & Co.); Montlivet, by 
Alice I'reseoM Smith (Houghton, Mifflin & 
Co.), and Casa Grande, by Charles Duff 
Stuart (Henry Holt & Co.). Of these only 
two have any pretentions whatever to literary 
quality. These are The Plow Woman and 
Montlivet. Miss Gates shows n considerable 
feeling for style if not fo> form. In the 
construction of her ston »ue makes use of 
the most obvious tricks and expedients, but 
her actual writing is much above the average^ 
Mrs. Smith has the feeling for language, a 
good idea of construction and a certain power 
of insight. Any book-reviewer will tell you 
that, as stories, both of these are intensely 
interesting. They will also say the same 
thing of Casa Grande and Whispering Smith 
and in the case of the latter they would 
be perfectly right. It is also very seri- 
very melodramatic and perfectly ab- 
surd. But the small boy who reads it 
will say, "Gee! that's a bully story!" 
or words to that effect and the boii' 
will concur. 




A Summer Playground of America 



By Frank Carleton Teck 




10ME of these balmy Sum- 
mer days, and not so very 
long henceforward, Califor- 
nia will find herself experi- 
encing an exodus of mil- 
lionaire Winter boarders. 
Migrating northward with the wrens and 
the robins, these adorable seekers of glowing 
health, genial climes and diverting recrea- 
tion will flock to Northwest Washington on 
Puget Sound, the already popular Summer 
playground of America. 

There is the lustily growing city of Bell- 
ingham, for instance; the very hottest day 
she has had for the last three Summers reg- 
istered a maximum of only eighty-three de- 
grees. Think of it, and wonder the more 
that anybody with a cool million at his near 
elbow should suffer his marrow to be fried 
out by the stress of sweltering and sultry 
heat that reminds one painfully of the rude 
old Summertime among the hornets and the 
hay! 

Puget Sound, as nearly everyone in the 
West knows, has one of the most genial 
Summer climates in the United States; and 
Northwest Washington — that is, what is pop- 
ularly termed "The Bellingham Bay Coun- 
try" — has decidedly the coolest, clearest and 
most delightful Summer climate of the 
Puget Sound Basin. Not only that, but it 



is wonderfully endowed with scenic marvels 
that thrill and fascinate every beholder and 
baffle the descriptive power of artist and 
scribe alike. 

Although climate is. but one of several at- 
tractions to be considered in the selection 
of a Summer-vacation scene, it is the ele- 
ment that has a lot to do in influencing the 
decision of the tourist. It has built Los 
Angeles and some other good towns. The 
City of Bellingham, according to the United 
States Weather Bureau, has enjoyed the 
following nine years' averages, including 
the calendar year 1906: 

Annual mean temperature 50.2 deg. 

Average highest temperature 84.8 deg. 

Average lowest temperature *12.6 deg. 

Average annual precipitation 31.5 in. 

Average greatest monthly precipi- 
tation 5.5 in. 

Average annual snowfall 9.9 in. 

Average rainy days 112.5 

Average clear days 140.2 

Average part cloudy days 123.7 

Average cloudy days 101.1 

* Above zero. 

There you have a true statement of the 
record of what the United States Weather 
Bureau pronounces the most equable cli- 
mate in the United States, and the records 
of the Secretary of War prove that it is 



\ BUMMEB PLAYGROUND OF AMERK a 



129 




productive of the lowest death rate known 
to the American army. 

The t -ill-waters of Northwest Washington 
are free from destnu-tv -. cyclones. 

Ion, typhoons, thunder and lightning. 
In all that region there are no poisonous 
snakes, insects of plants, and the country 
is remarkably free from such insect pests 
-.mats and ticks. There 
are neither earth<]iiakes nor water-spouts, 

re there heavy, drenching rains at any 

of tlie year, while hail, sleet and 

blizzards are unknown. Indeed, there is not 

in all its phenomena of sky, sea or land a 

solitary element of danger to life or limb. 

Westward across Bellingham Bay from 
the City of Bellingham lie the famous San 
Juan Islands. "The Cyrlades of the V. 
Umbering about half a hundred evergreen 

indndmg San .luan. Orsas and Lopes, 
the three largest. San Juan is unique in 
American history as the scene of the last 
of the British flag on American soil, 
ami where the Rritsh and American forces 
held joint occ upa tion from l. Q - r >9 until 



when Emperor William I decided the boun- 
dary controversy in favor of the American 
i-otitention. Orcas Island, noted for its large 
orchards, is the ideal Summer resort. Its 
predominant feature is picturesque Mount 
Constitution, a great bank of green rising 
practically from the water's edge to a 
height of 2,40fl feet. A fine trail reaches 
to the summit of the mountain, and one is 
rewarded for the climb by the most en- 
chanting view available in all the Pnget 
Sound country. From this emerald sum- 
mit a wondrous panorama of varied scenery 
thrills and fascinates the beholder, the scope 
of view commanding more than a hundred 
miles in every direction; all the shimmering 
windings of I'ugct Sound toward the smith, 
and beyond, the towering dome of Mount 
Rainier (Taeoma); dim outlines of the 
peaks of Oregon, the rugged blue Olympic 
range in the west; the countless islands of 
Puget Sound hovering like Iwryl clouds on 
the glistening waters; the broad expanse of 
the Oulf of Georgia laving the northern 
shore of the island: northeastward. Belling- 



130 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



ham Bay and the City of Bellingham in the 
foreground, and far beyond the lordly Ca- 
nadian Selkirks clearly niark'ng the hori- 
zon, while eastward and within forty miles 
from Bellingham rises majestic Kulshan 
(Mount Baker, as the white man dubs it) 
with an altitude of 10,827 feet, the noblest 
figure in all the Cascade range. It is doubt- 
ful if any other country excels the inspiring 
splendor and magnificence of this panorama. 
There is excellent fishing in these salt 



All the mainland creeks and lakes are 
plentifully supplied with speckled trout, and 
some are stocked with black bass, while the 
forests abound with deer, mountain goats, 
bear, rabbits, wildcats, lynx, cougars, coons, 
beaver, otter, marten, mink, ermine and 
weazel. The Lummi marshes, about seven 
miles northwest from Bellingham, and the 
Samish flats, about eight miles south, are 
the favorite Puget Sound feeding grounds 
of ducks and geese. Automobile stage lines 




Lake Whatcom. 



waters, kelp bass, several kinds of cod, 
perch and the great salt-water speckled 
trout, called the steel-head salmon, are 
plentiful. Camping-out facilities and nat- 
ural attractions and comforts are ample 
There are fine, gravelly beaches in sheltered 
coves, and plenty of clams, crabs, oysters, 
shrimp, g-uiducks and mussels. Both on the 
islands and on the mainland there are deer, 
pheasants, Chinese pheasants and quail, be- 
sides all kinds of waterfowl in season. 



are operated from Bellingham into the sur- 
rounding country, and the Bellingham Bay 
& British Columbia Railroad extends to the 
foothills of the Mount Baker region, where 
the Mazamas, the well-known Oregon club 
of mountain-climbers, spent several mem- 
orable and delightful weeks in July and 
August, 1906, a trail having been built for 
them from Nooksack Falls to the site of 
their permanent camp at the Mount Baker 
snow-line. 




Lumtni Island and thr Ya<hts 




Ixike Padden. 



132 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 




The City of Bellingham. 



Bellingham, which is the industrial and 
commercial metropolis of this beautiful re- 
gion, is a tremendously busy, resourceful 
and progressive city of 35,000 people. The 
average Bellingham man is proud of the 
city's wonderful growth since the consolida- 
tion of the two former cities of Whatcom 
and Fairhaven under the name of Belling- 
ham three years ago, when the combined 
population was 22,632. But few have, until 
recently, attached sufficient importance to 
the unique attractions of climate, scenery 
and all the delights of Summertime outdoors. 

Any Bellingham enthusiast will tell you 
without waiting to catch his breath that 
the value of the city's manufactures in- 
creased from $3,293,988 in 1905 to $7,751,- 
tG4 in 1906, an increase of 135 per cent in 
a year; that the value of marine shipping, 
according to the report for the War De- 
partment, increased from $5,938,173 in 1905 
to $9,990,864, an increase of sixty-eight per 
cent; that National bank deposits increased 
fifty-three per cent in the same time, num- 
ber of telephones twenty-seven per cent, 
street railway passengers carried twenty- 



seven per cent, or that postoffice receipts for 
1906 were $50,136.68, an increase of eigh- 
teen per cent. But they dont waste time 
talking about the great blessing of cool, re- 
freshing Summers, mild Winters, and all 
the beautiful works of Nature that make it 
"The Summer Playground of America." 

Of course, as nearly everyone knows. 
Bellingham has some industrial sights that 
many people come many miles to see in 
operation, and perhaps the most picturesque 
of these is its salmon fish'ng and canning 
industry. There are four salmor. canneries 
in the city, and one of them is the largest 
institution of the kind in the world and em- 
ploys over a thousand persons, having a 
daily packing capacity of 10,000 cases of 
forty-eight one-pound cans each. During 
the fishing season, July to September, this 
cannery often receives 125,000 eight-pound 
salmon a day. The largest cedar shingle 
mill in the world and two of the largest 
cargo lumber mills of the Pacific Coast, lo- 
cated on the Bellingham waterfront, also at- 
tract many interested sight-seers. The big 
codfish-packing plant at Anacortes. on 



A SUM.MKW PLAYGR01 M> t»F AMERICA. 



133 




The Skagit River. 



Fidalgo Island, is another industrial attrac- 
tion, sufficiently interesting to warrant one 
making a special trip to that thriving and 
inviting little city. 

However, when yon include industrial 
■ irlits worthy of note in this most resource- 
ful industrial district it's about time to 



pass on to something less difficult of un- 
questionable selection. It is hard to 

discriminate between what to mention and 
what not. 

Anyhow, one never has cause to regret 

the time spent in so rare a clime and so 
rich a region. 




- 



Pasture Land Before Being Irrigated. Seven Miles From Spokane. 

What Irrigation is Doing for Spokane 

By Fred Lockley 




where you will in the West, 
be it lumber camp, round-up 
or range, you will see broad- 
shouldered, well-built young 
fellows, their eyes looking 
out keen, alert and unafraid 
on the world about them. They wear no 
man's collar and, drop them where you will, 
you will find they always light on their feet. 
In their tanned and bronzed faces you may 
read courage, chivalry and optimism, and an 
unfailing humor which makes the best of 
every situation. They are bound by no iron- 
clad regulations and conventions as are the 
men of the more stable and conservative East. 
They have no traditions to follow, hence 
their lives do not run in a groove. They 
have made fortunes and lost them, and with 
splendid courage have snatched victory from 
defeat and made new fortunes. 

It is this spirit of optimism, of courage 
and of resourcefulness that is developing the 
West. The East, seeing the West as it was, 
has no conception of the West as it is. It 
cannot credit the transformation which has 
been wrought in the past few years. Cities 
have sprung up, having a permanence and 
stability that would have taken a generation 
to accomplish elsewhere. Districts which 



were semi-arid wastes are now peopled by a 
prosperous and contented people. 

Spokane is a typical example of Western 
growth and enterprise. Here is a city, one 
of the most beautiful in the whole West, a 
city of nearly one hundred thousand people, 
showing on every hand abundant evidence of 
growth and prosperity, of comfort and re- 
finement, yet so short a time ago as the cen- 
tennial year deer were grazing on the site 
of the present City of Spokane. 

While in Spokane last week I met James 
N. Glover. Tall, erect, tanned, clear-eyed, 
hair tinged with gray, face smooth-shaven, 
he gives one the impression of a man whose 
life has been spent in the open, one who has 
been a leader, not a follower. In answer to 
my question, he said: 

"Yes, I have seen a city of a hundred 
thousand people grow up on my claim here 
by the Falls. I came here in the Fall of '73 
from Salem, Oregon, where I had lived since 
1849. There were two settlers here. Downing 
and Scranton, whose squatter rights I pur- 
chased. I put up a store that Fall and 
traded with the Indians, taking pay for my 
goods in furs. Then I put in a saw mill. 
The Phoenix mill now occupies the site of it. 
The country in those days was so sparsely 



WHAT IRRIGATION IS DOING Kol< SPOKANE, 



13.". 




ng Up Pasture /.and for Purpose* of Irrigation. 



settled that Fort Colville was the county 
seat for all the country from the Columbia 
to the Snake River. In 1877 General W. T. 
Sherman with his troops camped here on his 
way from Fort Walla Walla to Fort Van- 
couver. I asked him to station some troops 
here, as the Indians were very uneasy on 
account of the pursuit and capture of Chief 
Joseph. When his regiment had pone into 
Winter quarters at Palouse City, he detailed 

inic- H and I, Second Regiment, men 
who had been recruited in Alabama, to spend 
the Winter here. N'ext May these companies 

~ent to Fort Coeur d'Alene, afterward 
named Fort Shennan, on the old Mullen trail. 
That Spring a few people settled near here. 
My claim was I. shaped and took in the main 
and lower lulls. In the Fall of 1879 the 
building of the Northern Pacific was re- 
sumed, railroad work was commenced at 
Pasco and people began settling around the 
Falls. In less than thirty years I have seen 
my farm become the leading city in the whole 
Inland Empire." 



Spokane has grown because it is the nat- 
ural dist ri butin g point for a rich tributary 
territory. Not only mining but stockraising. 
manufacturing and farming, have all contrib- 
uted toward the upbuilding of the City by 
the Falls, and now a new factor has been 
introduced which is destined to play an im- 
portant part in the development of Spokane. 
Until within the past few years the country 
surrounding Spokane was devoted to the 
growing of grain or to stockraising. Within 
the past two or three years thousands of 
of this pasture land and wheat land 
have been put under irrigation and the price 
of the land has advanced from fifteen or 
twenty dollars an acre to from $150 to $300 
an acre. A visit to any one of the irrigated 
tracts in the vicinity of Spokane will open 
one's eyes to the wonderful possibilities to be 
found in diversified fanning on a small irri- 
gated tract of five or ten acres. The princi- 
pal irrigation projects in the vicinity of Spo- 
kane are the Otis orchards, located twelve 
miles from Spokane and consisting of 9,000 



136 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



acres of land; Edendale on the Columbia 
River, forty-two .miles north of Spokane; Ar- 
cadia on Loon Lake, forty miles from Spo- 
kane; Green Acres on the line of the Coeur 
d'Alene electric railroad, about twelve miles 
from Spokane; East Green Acres, having 
about 3,000 acres of land under water; Dal- 
ton Gardens, two miles north of the City of 
Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, and two miles south of 
Hayden Lake; Opportunity, eight miles from 
Spokane; Hazelwood, six miles distant from 
Spokane, and Trent, a few miles from the 
outskirts of the city. 

There are many other irrigation projects 
tributary to Spokane, but a description of 
the projects already mentioned will suffice to 
show what irrigation is doing for Spokane. 

Otis orchards is a tract consisting of about 
9,000 acres. Ten years ago this land could 
have been purchased for from ten to twenty 
dollars an acre; now it is worth ten times 
that sum. Three years ago there were not 
over three or four farm houses on the entire 
tract; now there are at least a hundred fam- 
ilies there, many of whom have put up beau- 
tiful and artistic bungalows and have brought 
their five and ten-acre tracts to a high state 
of cultivation. The soil of this prairie is 
black loam mixed with gravel, and with 
plenty of water it is astonishing what crops 
of small fruits, tomatoes, melons and vege- 
tables are produced on this land. I stopped 
to talk with one of the farmers who was 
plowing between rows of young apple trees. 
"Potatoes do so well here I am putting in a 
few acres of them between my trees," he 
said. "I am, or at least I was till lately, an 
amateur in the farming business. I am a 
conductor on the Great Northern, and I 
thought I would do a little farming on the 
side, but I find it is panning out so well that 
now I count myself a farmer doing a little 
railroading on the side. My brother, who 
is an engineer on the same road, owns the 
place next mine. I'll have to stop in an hour 
or so and go into Spokane to start on my 
run." 

The next man I ran across in the field was 
a German named Witmer. He, too, was 
plowing among the blossoming young trees. 

"Dont my trees look mighty good?" he 
asked. "They are White Winter Pearmine, 
Rome Beauty and Wagners. Those trees 
so full of blossoms are the Wagners. They 
are three years old. I have been on this 




Cherry Tree, 



Without Irrigation, on the Hazel- 
wood Tract. 



place, makes the third season already. Last 
year I put potatoes in this field between my 
trees and got ninety-five sacks to the acre, 
and sold them from a dollar ten to a dollar 
and a half a sack. See that little piece of 
ground? It is an even three-quarters of an 
acre. I sacked 117 sacks of potatoes from 
it last season. Over there near my barn I 
planted tomatoes. I put in three rows be- 
tween each row of trees, that made a strip 
of land eighty feet wide by 600 feet long. 
2,000 plants in all. What do you think I got 
to the acre? More than fifteen tons of toma- 
toes to the acre. I sold them all the way 
from seventy-five cents for a twenty-pound 
box down to twenty-five cents a box, and the 
last ones I sold for eight dollars a ton. If 
I can average ten dollars a ton that makes 
$150 an acre. Yes, I did mighty well last 
year; seems like I had pretty good luck with 
everything. I put in eight rows of Crinkly 
Sweet watermelons; the rows were 280 feet 
long; that makes about quarter of :in acre. 
I sold thirty-four dozen of them at a dollar a 
dozen and when I had sold the thirty-four 
dozen you wouldn't think I had taken any: 
seemed like there was as many as ever left. 



WHAT IRRIGATION is DOING POR Sl'uKANE. 



137 




ll'iii • ■' changed Into Small Irrigated Farms. 



I did prett v well wiili my cantaloupes, too, 
but l>est of all I think were my peppers. I 
had five rows of them three feet apart ; that 
makes a strip fifteen feet wide and 150 feet 
1 sold seventy-three twenty-pound 
boxes at sixty-five rents a box. Fiu'in 

that bring! an acre. What you think 

.it; pretty g I. not s<>? My trees are 

y feet apart; that makes 106 to the 

When they arc six ..r eight years old 

they will lioar five boxes to the tree, maybe 

and sell lor From one dollar to a dollar 

and a half a box. If they bring only a dollar 

i a box that means $540 an acre for my apples. 

ii see with ten acres of fruit a man need 

starve." 

■tared by Newman Lake, 

130 feet higher than the tract of 

[ land which it irrigates. A unique feature of 

the employment of Professor 

A. Van Holderbeke, ex-State Horticultural 

' -!cr. for a period of four years to 

■ reside at the tract and give free instruction 

■ and advice relative to the planting and pare 
of the orchards. This gives the novice an 
opportune ..ii the 

i- method of irrigation and cultivation, 
rehards this year has 1.500 acres in oni- 
on and there have been set out 110,000 
fmit tncs. Last season the following oops 
rrown on the tracts by the various farm- 
I'wo hundred and forty acres of pota- 
iixty acres of tomatoes, thirty-five acres 
rn, fourteen acres of melons, six acres 
. twelve ai ueumbers, eight 



acres of cabbage, three acres of celery, be- 
sides a considerable acreage set to carrots, 
squash, pumpkins, beets and other vegetables. 

It is impossible to travel by team or auto 
in the vicinity of Spokane without being im- 
ed with the splendid roads and the 
beautiful scenery. I-evel prairies merge into 
the limbered foothills, beautiful lakes gleam 
like mirrors in the valleys, the Spokane River 
winds like a shimmering: ribbon of silver 
through velvety preen fields. From Spokane 
to Hayden Lake in Idaho the distance is 
about thirty-four miles. Hut when one makes 
the trip in a large and powerful automobile 
you are ready to declare it can not be over 
ten or twelve miles. However, I presume if 
one's automobile went wrong and you had to 
walk back it might seem all of thirty-four 
miles. At times our car seemed to be skim- 
mini: along the hard, smooth road like a 
swallow. "She 's not making over twenty- 
five miles an hour; let her out a little," said 
the owner to the chauffeur. The auto took 
the bit in its teeth and the fenceposts 
mi etch side began galloping wildly back- 
ward. 

The soil at Dalton Gardens and at Hayden 
Lake is a rich sandy black loam without 
gravel. It is beautifully situated and is in 
close proximity to Coeur dAlene City. The 
water is pumped from Hayden Lake to tin- 
highest point on the tract and from there is 
distributed by gravity all over the tract. It 
is brought to the land by means of a wooden 
pipe twenty-two inches in diameter and 



138 



THE PACIFIC .MONTHLY. 



11,000 feet in length, the flow of water being 
6,000 gallons per minute. We stopped to 
look at a new orchard of 150 acres of apples 
which has just been put in by Dr. Hilscher, 
sugar beets being planted between the trees. 
D. C. Corbin has 1,100 acres of sugar beets 
planted on the Hayden Lake lands for use in 
the Waverly sugar-beet factory. 

Hayden Lake is destined to be one of the 
most beautiful Summer resorts in Washing- 
ton, not only on account of its natural beauty 
and its splendid fishing, but because the eom- 



At Hayden Lake is located the Avondale 
poultry farm, one of the largest institutions 
of the kind in the entire Northwest. It cov- 
ers forty acres, ten acres of which are de- 
voted to sheds and runways. Their fourteen 
incubators have a capacity of 5,000 eggs. 
They have already hatched 8,000 chickens this 
Spring and will hatch that many more. In 
addition to the chickens, they have more than 
a thousand homer pigeons. 

Everything is carried on in a large and 
strictly scientific way. Wheat is bought by 




Immense Crops of Melons and Strawberries Are Grown on the Irrigated Land. 



pany that is in charge of the enterprise is 
working with Nature to make the place more 
beautiful by erecting buildings which will 
harmonize with their environment. Comfort- 
able cabins of rough barked logs with wide 
stone chimneys nestle between the trees along 
the shore of the lake. The "wigwam" carries 
out the same idea of rustic simplicity, while 
the hotel will be on the plan of a Swiss 
chalet, low with broad, projecting roof whose 
broad expanse will be relieved by moss-cov- 
ered rocks suspended from the ridge-pole. 



the. carload. The brooder, which has a 
capacity of 6,000 chicks, is heated by 
hot water pipes. About 5,000 laying hens 
are kept on hand, the rest being dressed 
for market. 

If clerks and professional men in the 
East who are anxious to come West, but are 
timid about giving up a sure thing for an 
uncertainty, could only know the sure re- 
ward that comes to thrift, intelligence and 
industry they would no longer hesitate. Fif- 
teen years ago a man started up a waffle 



WHAT IKKKiATloN IS DOING FOB SPOKANE. 







Where Ike Life-Oiving Waters Turn Vast 8tretches of Grind Land Into 8plendid Orchards. 



stand on one of the side streets of Spokane. 
The waffles were good, the syrup was real 
maple syrup, and the butter was of the very 
best He could not supply the demand, so 
he enlarged his quarters, and from that 
humble beginning he has grown till he has 
the largest, the most complete and one of the 
finest restaurants in the Northwest, so that 
now Davenport's restaurant is one of the 
show places of Spokane. Here is another 
illustration equally striking: Seventeen years 
•go David Brown and his brother. O. M. 
Brown, and their brother-in-law, J. L. Smith, 
to Spokane from the East. One of the 
Br.iwn bmt hers secured work driving a milk 
wagon at thirty dollars a month. They bought 
a small farm on credit near the city and 
started in a modest way in the dairy business, 
dollar they could save went into their 
•"■« to buy more cows. The cows enabled 
them to buy mure land, till they had gathered 
a farm of 3,000 acres and their cows were 
winning blue ribbons wherever they were ex- 
hibited. From driver of a milk wagon at 
thirty dollars a month to owning the Hazel- 
herd and ranch, with its hundreds of 
cattle and its scores of prize-winning cows. 
Mows what can be done by consistently try- 
produce only the best. 
Recently the Hazelwood Company has de- 



cided on an entire change of plans. Hereto- 
fore they have used their 3,000-acre ranch 
for pasturage purposes. Now, however, they 
are going t<> set aside a tract of 480 acres, 
which will be placed under irrigation, and 
on which they will be able to raise sufficient 
alfalfa to keep about 350 cows. All of the 
rest of their land will be irrigated and sold in 
five and ten-acre tracts. A considerable part 
of this land had been used prior to its pur- 
chase by the Hazelwood Company for grow- 
ing wheat, and from twenty-five to forty 
bushels of wheat were raised per acre. When 
the Government relinquished its right to the 
water rights of Silver Lake, the Hazelwood 
Company filed a claim and secured the water 
rights of this lake. Silver Lake is three and 
a half miles long and half a mile wide. The 
water will be piped to the highest point of 
the land to a natural storage reservoir several 
acres in extent, and from which it is to be 
led to the land by a gravity ditch. In place 
of producing pasture, the land will herenfter 
be farmed intensively, and in place of one 
family living upon the land, it will provide 
an ample living for three or four hundred 
families. It is near Spokane, and will provide 
a beautiful home and a sure income for 
those who are tired of being slaves to the 
desk or counter, and who wish to get back to 



140 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



nature. The raising of berries, of small 
fruits, of honey and of fruit will support a 
family in comfort, and at the same time it 
will be a delightful home. 

In the past it has been thought that unless 
water could be had from some nearby lake 
or stream, irrigation was not feasible. The 
tract of land at Opportunity has sufficiently 
refuted this theory. Here an electric pump 
is kept going day and night, and two streams 
of water — one eight inches in diameter and 
the other fourteen inches in diameter — 
steadily flow into the ditches. Most of the 
land at Opportunity has been sold in from 
five to ten-acre tracts, and during the past 
two years more than a hundred families have 
moved there and built homes. From the hill- 
side it looks like a well-kept experiment sta- 



tion or model farm. Encouraged by the suc- 
cess at Opportunity, many other irrigation 
projects are being planned where water will 
be pumped on the land. 

D. M. Drumheller, an old pony express 
rider and pioneer of the early days, is put- 
ting in a gas-making plant on the Columbia 
River, in the Horse Heaven country, just 
across the river from the town of Irrigon, 
Oregon. He has secured control of a consid- 
erable body of land there, and will soon sub- 
divide the tract and sell it with a perpetual 
water right in small tracts. The wonderful 
success of irrigation along the Snake River 
at Clarkston, in the Wenatchee country, and 
in the Yakima Valley, is stimulating a devel- 
opment along irrigation lines throughout the 
whole Northwest. 




One of the Finished Products of the Irrigated Lands. 
Fatten Rapidly and at Low Cost. 



Pigs in Alfalfa 







The Mediterranean of North 
America 



By C. B. VandeU 



I surely as the needle points 
'o the North Pole, so surely 
will the American people 
t.i know within the 
lite-time of the present gen- 
eration that the Pacific 
Northwest holils forth more charms to the 
lover of nature, the tourist, the seeker of 
health and recreation, than almost any other 
part of the North American Continent. 

of the factors which will lead to this 
change in the mental attitude of people of 
Ihhwiii who travel for pleasure, will be the 
iwnitsnt pressing forward of the "See 
■ lea. While I am not a prophet, 
nor the son of a prophet, yet knowing the 
unexampled scenic wonders of Puget Bound 
'and of the Pacitie Northwest, including 
Alaska. I will venture the prediction that 
within the life-time of the present genera- 
tion, this magnificent section of the coun- 
try will be known at home and abroad, as 
a land most wonderfully endowed with 
beauties and climatic attractions, 
while Puget Sound itself will be justly 
known as the Mediterranean of the North 
..American Continent. 




Canoeing 



MS0PM 



Jt may seem the height of temerity to 
venture the assertion that the mountains of 
the Cascade and Olympic ranges in Wash- 
ington are equal to, if they do not surpass 
in eoenic grandeur and eternal charm, the 
most famous mountain peaks of Continental 
Kurope. 

Yw any man who has scaled the heights 
of the Cascades — who has looked from the 
backbone of the range at the head of the 
Stehekin Canon, south to the broad valley 
of the Columbia, north to the Selkirk* in 
British Columbia, across the mighty Fraser 
— who has seen glistening under a Sum- 
mer's sun from this unparalelled point of 
view a score of mighty peaks — will avow 
that God never put upon this earth a 
grander prospect nor more ennobling sight 
than this. 

Appreciating the task of describing the 
attractions in a scenic way of Puget Sound 
and the Northwest for the benefit and in- 
formation of the pleasure-seeker and the 
tourist, one hesitates because of the riches 
at hand which surpass in amplitude and in- 
dividuality the powers of the most luminous 
descriptive writers. For example, within a 
radius of sixty-five miles of Seattle there 
lies a most delightful group of islands in 
the San Juan Archipelago, separated by 
wide stretches of the Sound or joined to- 
gether by narrow, swift-rushing channels 
of deep, green water. These islands include 
Whidby Island, Orcas and San Juan. Many 
historic spots are to be found on them, in 
eluding the famous post on San Juan where 
Great Britain made her last stand on this 
side of 54° 4V. 

Comfortable passenger steamers ply over 
this route carrying the visitor through an 
almost endless but ever-entrancing vista of 
light and shadow — long stretches of opales- 
cent water fringed with dark green shadows 



142 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



where the steep bluffs overhang the Sound; 
of mysterious far-distant islets peering out 
of the twilight and seeming to belong to 
some supernal realm; of heavily timbered 
mountains near the shore, flanked by 
grander, loftier, 6now-clad peaks to the 



the islands of the Lower Sound, when the 
sun — a ball of molten fire — drops into the 
placid Pacific, leaving in his wake a wide 
stretch of blood-red sea. 

But it must not be imagined that the 
wonders of the islands of the Lower Sound. 




Snoqualmie Falls; Two Hours' Ride From Seattle. 



west; and of cozy farms nestling close to 
the water with here and there a thatched 
cottage sheltered underneath wide spread 
apple trees planted fifty years ago. 

No tongue hfl' ever told, no pen has ever 
portrayed, no \-rush has ever painted the 
exquisite beauty of a Summer sunset among 



and of the channel routes that reach the 
upper peninsula country, are all that the 
sight-seer or tourist can find to stimulate 
his imagination, and to charm him into a 
beatific realization or sense of the beauties 
of nature. The Upper Sound country 
around by way of Vashon to the pictur- 



144 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



esque state capital at Olympia, a town a 
half-century old or more, invites the tourist 
and pleasure-seeker, who finds a new and 
delightful charm in every one of the many 
windings of steamer routes to Olympia. 

Further down the Sound are Victoria and 
• Vancouver, B. C, which are reached by- 
regular lines of splendidly furnished steam- 
ers, and which are greatly patronized dur- 
ing the Summer months by visitors from 
all over the country. The steamer route to 
Victoria carries one by way of the historic 
old town of Port Townsend, the headquar- 
ters for this customs district and chief port 
of entry; and thence across the wide Strait 
of Juan de Fuca. The trip carries one not 
far from the base of the mighty Olympic 
Mountains, a purple sawtooth range, bristl- 
ing with spires and minarets, with dozens 
of glaciers glistening like diamonds in the 
rays of the Summer sun. 

Alaska tourist travel every Summer is 
becoming more and more popular with the 
wealthy and cultured of the East, so that 
a brief mention of this delightful trip is 
necessary in any review of outing in the 
Northwest. A number of palatial steamers 
annually are devoted exclusively to this 
travel for a season of about two months in 
the Summer. The schedule is so arranged 
as to cater to the demands of this traffic 
rather than to the ordinary freight and 
mail service. Southeastern Alaska is a 
veritable wonderland of wide, open stretches 
of placid sea and of deep and narrow 
canons where the mountains come sheer 
down to the water's edge. The Taku and 
Muir glaciers are famous as show points in 
Southeastern Alaska, while curio-hunters 
have a veritable field day with the Indian 
villages along the route. 

Directly tributary to Seattle and more in- 
timately connected with the life of this city 
is a large section of country where short 
trips are made. For example, there is the 
whole length and breadth of Lake Washing- 
ton, one of the most beautiful inland bodies 
of fresh water on the American Continent. 



It is more than twenty miles long and ranges 
from one to three miles in width. Its shores 
slope gradually from the water and are 
here and there covered with farms or coun- 
try villas. Beyond and to the east the Cas- 
cade range rises to a height of ten to twelve 
thousand feet, the peaks clad in eternal 
snow, while to the southeast rises the hoary 
head of the giant of the Cascades, Mount 
Rainier. This is the tallest peak in the 
United States proper. Fishing trips and 
boating trips on the lake are profitable to 
the idler and seeker for recreation, while 
a little further into the foothills are to be 
found dozens of ice cold streams, fed by 
glaciers, which teem with three distinct va- 
rieties of speckled trout. An hour's ride on 
the street car from the center of Seattle will 
bring one to where the streams entering the 
lakes are alive with fish, while a little far- 
ther back in the smaller lakes black bass are 
plentiful. 

From Seattle it is little more than a 
day's journey to points in British Colum- 
bia, whence the hunter for big game can 
penetrate the wilderness of Northwestern 
Canada. Here in the mighty Selkirks, 
mountain sheep are found in great num- 
bers, while other game, such as bear, deer 
and elk, reward the hunter with splendid 
trophies of the chase. 

To the east over the Great Northern and 
Northern Pacific are reached the hot medi- 
cinal springs at Madison on the Great 
Northern and at Green River on the North- 
ern Pacific, while across the Cascade range 
and down in the valley of the Columbia be- 
gins the journey to Lake Chelan, the largest 
glacier-fed lake on the continent. Lake 
Chelan is sixty miles in length and its sur- 
roundings, especially in the upper reaches 
of the lake, are of such surpassing beauty 
that there is serious talk of making this part 
of the state a National park. Lake Chelan 
is reached by railway and steamer up 
the Columbia River from Wenatchee in 
little less than twenty-four hours from 
Seattle. 






THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 




Pears' Soap is good for boys and everyone— It 
removes the dirt, but not the cuticle -Pears' 
keeps the skin soft and prevents the roughness 
often caused by wind and weather— constant 
use proves it "Matchless for the complexion" 



OF ALL SCENTED SOAPS PEARS' OTTO OF ROSE IS THE BEST. 

' ylll ri[ktt Ittmrtd." 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 




A 5 -MINUTE PROCESS 

To Make SYRUP WitH 



MAPLE I NE 



RECIPE 

SUGAR 7 pounds 

WATER 4 pints 

MAPLEINE - 1 ounce 

This makes one gallon of Syrup with a maple flavor that experts 
pronounce perfect. 

No Gluecose-No Adulteration— 
But Pure and Wholesome 

Mapleine is sold at Grocers, or enough for two gallons of syrup 

mailed to any address on receipt of 35 cents in stamps. 

Our Cook Book mailed FREE with each bottle. 

CRESCENT MFG. CO. 

315 Jackson St.., Seattle, Wash. 



Made in Southern California 




JMONG the many attractive ex- 
hibits at the recent exposi- 
tion held in Los Angeles for 
. the purpose of showing the 
various lines of goods manu- 
factured in Southern Cali- 
fornia, the following deserve special mention, 
for the crowds always seen around them fully 
attested to their popularity as well as their 
worth : 

The Carl E. Nash Company had on exhi- 
bition their marvelous round table, the only 
one of its kind in the world which can be ex- 
tended and still remain perfectly round. It 
can be used as an ordinary center table and 
in a few seconds converted into a full-sized 
dining-room .table. The top is solid and the 
base stationary, while the leaves are circular. 
and are placed around the outer edge of the 



top on slides which are drawn from under the 
top. These leaves, after being placed, are 
securely fastened together by a metal clasp, 
which makes them firm and they will sup- 
port any weight. 

The Walker Portable Cottage next at- 
tracted our attention, they presenting the 
only canvas portable cottage having upper 
and lower floors, connected with a folding 
stairway. It can be readily taken apart and 
put together, and fills the bill for people de- 
siring a home for out-door life, for mining 
camps, and for mountain and beach use, and 
for health-seekers desiring a perfectly venti- 
lated home. 

Turning from this exhibit, we noted tli.it 
of the Anita Cream and Toilet Company, 
with their varied assortment of Anita Toilet 
preparations. The most prominent among 



MADE IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. 



perhaps, is their Anita Cream tor 
sting a new and fairer skin, and their 
on-setta Cream, wlncli prevents sunburn, 
"ckles, etc. These goods are guaran- 
under the pure food and drug act. 
Next we were impressed with the display 
the Gifford Olive Oil Works of San Diego, 
lis company makes a specialty of uianu- 
turing pure olive oil and keeping it in an 
ilutely fresh condition, passing it through 
last refining process the day before it is 
at out. By so doing and by sending it di- 
et to their customers, the consumer receives 
in an absolutely fresh condition. 
The Cieortce J. Birkel Company, who are 
uthern California headquarters for the 
or talking machines, as well as sole 
its for the famous Steinway pianos, had 
very attractive booth containing various 
nds of talking machines and a Steinway 
ino with front taken off, exposing the in- 
dicate and fine mechanism. This firm advo- 
ites handling only good goods and advert is- 
them well. 
The Norton Engine & Power Company ex- 



hibit an interesting novelty in the line of 
mutor-boats. The Hankscraft is a gentle- 
man's pleasure launch, with its mechanism 
so arranged that the outward appearance of 
the boat differs in no way from a large elec- 
tric launch, the high-powered motor and other 
machinery being entirely concealed. It also 
has all the good qualities of the latter craft, 
such as quietness, safety, ease of handling, 
etc., and in speed, equipment and finish re- 
sembles as nearly as possible an automobile. 
Here is compares favorably with the beat 
of the large machines. 

In addition to the completed launch as de- 
scribed above, this company shows a very 
complete line of marine and stationary gas, 
gasoline and distillate engines. It is the 
Western representative of a number of East- 
ern manufacturers whose products are rec- 
ognized as standard in their lines. Among 
tin 'M> is i he Alamo Manufacturing Company. 
of Hillsdale, Michigan, who turn out a dis- 
tillate engine which combines the greatest 
simplicity with the highest efficiency for 
power work of all kinds. 



Lea & Ferrins' Sauce 

AL WORCESTERSHIRE 

I Never Dine Without It. 

My chef, who is always successful 
with his seasonings, tells me that 
Lea & Perrins' Sauce is the secret 
of his success. I find it gives an 
appetizing relish to an otherwise 
insipid dish. I like it in Soups, 
Stews and Hashes. It certainly does 
improve Roast Meats, Chops and 
Steaks. Just a little on Cheese is a delight- 
ful finishing touch. No Rarehit is complete 
without it. It is a good digestive. 

SEE LEA A PERRINS' SICNATURE ON LABEL 

John Duncan's Sort. Agrnlt. New York 




Do not forget to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing wlih adrertlaere. It will be appreciated. 



The Los Angeles Savings Banks 

There is no better index to the prosperity of a country than the deposits in its sav- 
ings banks. The story told by the banks of Los Angeles is a wonderful one. It is this, in 
brief: For each inhabitant of the United States there is an average deposit in American 
banks of thirty-nine dollars. For each inhabitant of Los Angeles there is a deposit in 
the Los Angeles savings banks of $160. 

Some of the details of this prodigious business prosperity are given in the article 
that follows. 




N January 1, 1907, the regu- 
lar savings banks in Los An- 
geles had deposited with 
them for safe keeping the 
enormous sum of almost 
$40,000,000, it being divided 



amongst them as follows: 



National, state, private and savings, thirty- 
nine in all— was $100,020,553.28. Thus we 
see that thirteen savings banks, although 
representing only thirty-three per cent of 
the banks in number, were doing forty per 
cent of the total business so far as concerns 
deposits. 



1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 



Deposits. 

Security Savings Bank $15,515,339.36 

German-American Savings Bank 9,373,447.90 

Southern California Savings Bank 7,569,673.14 

American Savings Bank 1,450,126.56 

Equitable Savings Bank 1,348,295.93 

California Savings Bank 1,154,555.63 

Dollar Savings Bank 1,050,331.39 

Home Savings Bank 784,194.20 

International Savings Bank 533,000.00 

Fraternal Savings Bank 207,248.04 

Manhattan Savings Bank 73,000.00 

Pacific Savings Bank 59,668.20 

Globe Savings Bank 50,196.00 



Total $39,169,076.35 



On the basis of a population of 250,000, 
this would be an average of $160 per in- 
habitant. The importance of this average 
will be better appreciated by comparing it 
with the fact that the "average deposit per 
inhabitant of the United States is $39." So 
that according to these statistics we are in 
Los Angeles saving four times as much 
per capita as the residents of other sections. 
Comparative Figures. 

Another feature of the savings in Los 
Angeles is that 40 per cent of all the money 
on deposit is with savings banks. That 
is to say, on January 1, 1907, the total de- 
posits in all the banks in Los Angeles — 



One savings bank alone, the Security, had 
deposits amounting to $15,515,339.36, which 
was a greater amount of deposits than any 
other bank in the city. The two banks com- 
ing nearest to this figure were the First Na- 
tional, which included the merger of two 
other banks, having $15,450,486.06, an'd the 
Farmers' and Merchants' National, having 
$13,110,929.00 on deposit. 

Ranking first in the above list is the Se- 
curity Savings Bank. This bank now has 
over $17,000,000.00 of assets and over 25,- 
000 depositors. It is located in the H. W. 
Hellman building at Fourth and Spring 
Streets, but will follow the southward trend 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 




Beauty, perfect sanitation, life-long durability and 
moderate cost make ^$ta«daT<T Ware the most satis- 
factory and economical sanitary equipment for the bath- 
room, kitchen and laundry in your home. 

Our book, "MODERN BATHROOMS," tells you how to plan, buy and arrange 
your bathroom, and illustrates many beautiful and inexpensive as well as luxurious 
rooms, showing the cost of each fixture in detail, together with many hints on decoration, 
tiling, etc. It is the most complete and beautiful booklet ever issued on the subject, 
and contains 100 pages. FREE for six cents postage and the name of your plumber 
and architect (if selected). 

CAUTION: Every piece of » m »r Mare bears our Ik—mf "GREEN and 
GOLD" guarantee label, and has our trade-mark tt—tmC cast on the outside. 
I 'nless the label and trade-mark are on the fixture it is not "M h \f Ware. Refuse 
substitutes — they are all inferior and will cost you more in the end. The word 
T^mimC is stamped on all our niciled brass fillings; specify them and see that you 
get the genuine trimmings ivith your bath and lavatory, etc. 

Address Standard Sannmslflfo.C* Dept. N, Pittsburgh, Pa., U. S A. 

Pittsburgh Showroom, 9*9 Penn Avenue 
Offices and Showrooms in New York: "WUmHtf Building, 15-37 West 31st Street 
London. Eng.: 22 Holborn Viaduct. E C New Orleans: Cor. Baronne £*» St Joseph St» 

Louisville 325-329 West Main Street Cleveland: 206-210 Huron Street 



aajM iu mention Toe Pacific llonthlr wbes dealing with adis i til ls. It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



of business, and this Fall will move to the 
new Security building at Fifth and Spring 
Streets. When the merger of the Southern 
California Savings Bank takes place, as 
noted below, the Security Savings Bank will 
have over $24,000,000.00 assets and about 
00,000 depositors. It will then be classed 
with the largest savings banks in America, 
and its capital and surplus will be over a 
million dollars. 

Another very strong savings bank in Los 
Angeles is the German-American Savings 
Bank, which represents a consolidation with 



quirements. This will give the bank very 
desirable quarters in the center of the busi- 
ness section, and fitted up with every facility 
for prompt and efficient transaction of all 
business within the scope of a modern, well 
equipped savings bank. 

The accompanying view of the Union 
Trust Building is a faithful picture of the 
location of the future home of this savings 
bank. 

Like other large up-to-date financial insti- 
tutions, the German- American Savings 
Bank is prepared to do a banking-by-mail 




OECU RITY 

^ ZjtjSVt, BUILDING CALIFORNIA 



LOS ANGELES, 



New Home of Security, an 1 Southern California Savings Banks 



the Union Bank of Savings of Los Angeles. 
While it ranks second in total deposits, it is 
first in amount of capital and surplus. Its 
capital and surplus are $So0,000, its re- 
sources $10,500,000.00, its deposits over $9,- 
000,000.00, and its total depositors over 
20,000. 

During the present year there will be 
many changes in locations of banks in Los 
.Angeles. The German- American Savings 
Bank will move to the Union Trust Build- 
ing, where it will occupy the entire lower 
floor for its banking and safe deposit re- 



business and is able to satisfactorily care 
for the interest of customers at any distance 
tributary to Southern California. It is a 
well-oflicered bank, governed by men closely 
identified with the development of this sec- 
tion. It has a board of directors composed 
of practical men who take an active part 
in the work of the bank and who are thor- 
oughly familiar with banking conditions. 

Third in size in this list of savings banks 
in Los Angeles is the Southern California 
Savings Bank. It has resources of over 
$3,000,000.00 and has a greater number ol 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 




JELL-O ICE CREAM Powder Exhibit, JAMESTOWN EXPOSITION 

Located in Food Products Building, Entrtnc* to Horticultural Court. 

We cordially invite you to visit our Exhibit and allow our demonstrators to serve you 
with the best ice cream in the world, made and frozen in 10 minutes from 

JELL-O ICE CREAM Powder 

No heating, no cooking. Nothing to add but milk. One quart milk and one package 
JELL-O ICECREAM Powder makes two quarts icecream when mixed together and frozen 

Complies <u>M\ *U pure food U<ws. 
Saves the cost of eggs. Saves the cost of sugar. Saves the cost of flavoring. 
Saves the cost of everything but the ice and milk. 

1 p»ck»((«, anougn for a gallon. 25c. 

At your grocer's, or bv mail if he does not keep it. 
Illustrated Recipe Book IV**. 

Meat your friends at the JELL-O ICE CREAM Powder exhibit. Sit 
down snd rest , write letters, read, converse or amuse yourself in any way 
yon please. Come often and stay as long as yon like. Yon will be welcome 

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO.. Le Roy. N. Y- 




I to mention The I'acinc Monthly when dealing with advertitcra. It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



depositors (35,000) than any bank in South- 
ern California. It is also the oldest savings 
bank in Los Angeles and was established in 
1885. This bank now occupies the entire 
lower floor of the Union Trust Building at 
Fourth and Spring Streets. It has, how- 
ever, outgrown these quarters and will be 
merged and move with the Security Savings 
Bank to the new Security Building at Fifth 
and Spring Streets. When thus consoli- 
dated the bank will be a part of a savings 
institution that will have 60,000 depositors 



and owning over $24,000,000.00 of re- 
sources. 

The lower floor and basement of the Se- 
curity Building, which is to be the home of 
the consolidated bank just mentioned, will 
give the Security Savings Bank ideal quar- 
ters. The main floor is 120 by 135 feet, 
making a banking room space of 16,200 
square feet, and the basement, . which is to 
be the safe deposit department, has a floor 
area of 120 by 70 feet, or 8,400 square 
feet; in all a total of 24,600 square feet. 



1 ^r* 





Union Trust Building, Fourth and Spring Streets, Los 

Angeles, Cal. Lower Floor to be occupied by 

German American Savings Bank. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION 




more than the Knox price will not buy a motor car 
of greater all-round ability than is jMissessed by the 
Model "ll" Knox Waterless. It is built for touring, and will do more of the 
day's driving on the high gear than any other ear in its class. The lubrication 
is automatic — and |*>sitive; the cooling is perfect — without the plumbing 
troubles; the gearset is simple, of the selective type, with three forward speeds 
and a reverse; the engine, four cylinders, of thirty road horsc|>ower, will take 
you anvwhere vou want to go as fast as vou dare drive. The MODEL H" 

KNOX WATERLESS 




PRICE $2,500 

has few equals and no superiors in its class. Any Knox representative will 
prove it. Let us send you the address of the nearest representative; they are 
the representative dealers in their community. Our illustrated catalogue is 
yours upon request. 



KNOX AUTOMOBILE COMPANY 

Member Association Licensed Automobile Manufacturers 

SPRINGHELD, MASS. 




Do not forget to mention Tbe Pirlfle Monthly when dealing with adrertiaen. It will be appreciated. 



The Lighter Side 

"Written by Hugh Herdman unless otherwise designated 



Easy. 

They were in the country store, and the 
city drummer was talking, as city drummers 
sometimes do. 

"As I was saying, I sold him a big order, 
and as it was about supper time, I began 
looking around for something to eat. The 
only hotel in the town was on the blink, and 
there wasn't any restaurant; so it occurred 
to me to pick up a store lunch. I looked 
around, but all that struck my fancy was a 
bunch of bananas, hanging in the widow. I 
gave him a quarter for a half-dozen, pro- 
vided he would let me pull them. You see, 
T used to be in the fruit business and I knew 
a thing or two. I pulled and ate only those 
that had been stung in the dark of the moon 
by a female tarantula. There are never more 
than a dozen of them in a bunch. And I tell 
you they are delicious." 

"Shucks!" exclaimed the proprietor. 
"That 's just another one of your drummer 
joshes. You can 't string me." 

"Who is trying to string you? It 's noth- 



ing to me, but if you dont know that you are 
not yet on to your job." 

"Is it really a fact?" asked one of the 
loafers. 

"Sure! Why it 's the easiest thing in the 
world. It 's worth money to a man to know, 
too." 

"How much will you take to tell us?" 

"Let me see. How many are there of you? 
Six, including the boss. I'll do it for a quar- 
ter apiece." 

They eagerly accepted his offer, put up the 
money and sat expectant. 

1 ' Why, they are the twelve biggest bananas 
in the bunch," he said as he skipped nimbly 
out the door. 

# * # 

Proof. 

Jinks — Jones, I hear, married a very sen- 
sible little wife. 

Binks — I dont believe it. 

Jinks— Why? 

Binks — Well, she married Jones, did n 't 
she? 




1 » 

Buy direct at producers prices 

Cawston's 

CALIFORNIA 

J PLUMES 



The Cawston trade mark which is attached to 
each feather article insures it to be the best of its 
kind in the world. 

SUPERIOR. TO ALL, OTHERS 

Tree delivery to afl {>arts of the world. Satisfaction guar- 
anteed or money refunded. 

Favored by the ideal climate of Southern California we 
have developed here the largest and finest specimens of feather 
producing birds in the world. Our feathers have life, lustre, 
beauty and strength not to be obtained elsewhere. Made in our 
factory on the farm, and sold direct. We also do repairing. Send 
us your old feather goods and have them made to look like new 
by our expert workers. 

Our New Catalogue Free S ow tne . ostr '^ h ri z es > 

** mm •w*9 ^*w*»*«v^**w & ■ w ltg pecu i iar character- 
istics, etc., interestingly told. Superb illustrations. Half-tone 
pictures of Cawston tips, plumes, boas, stoles, mulls, fans, etc, and 
a complete price list of all of our goods. 

PAW3TON 

^^ OSTRICH FARM 

P.O.BOX 67, SOUTH PAS AC EN A, CALIFORNIA 



One of Cawston's magnificent Os- 
triches, from which are taken the 
finest feathers in the world. Eight 
feet tall, and capable of reaching ten 
feet when a tempting orange is placed 
in view. 







When in California visit the Farm. 
Semi-tropical Parks. Ostrithes of all sizes c 



) 



Do not forget to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing with advertisers. It will be appreciated. 



THE LIGHTER SIDE. 



Taft. 

I "When I wu in Washington recently," 
id a w»U-known Portland man, ' ' 1 was 
morel with an invitation to a dinner at 
hieb a number of Senators, members of the 
ibinet and other prominent public men 
ere present. Among them was Secretary of 
«'ar Taft, who naturally came in for a great 
deal of attention. As is generally known, 
Taft is a good joker, that is, he can give 
ami take; and during the course of the even- 
ing he came in for a great deal of good- 
natured 'joshing.' 

"In the crowd was one person who is on 
very good terms with him, both personally 
and politically, and who is also an irrepres- 
sible joker. Just as the party was sitting 
down at the table, this man, who was along- 
side Taft, slipped an opera hat on the chair 
so that the corpulent Secretary would sit on 
it. The signal was given, and they all sat 
down. With surprising celerity, however, 
Taft sprang up and held up to view the flat- 
tened hat. 

" Miontlemen,' shouted the perpetrator of 
the joke, 'I call your attention to this inci- 
dent. Taft has been sitting on another lid. 
He has the habit.' 

" 'Gentlemen,' replied the Secretary when 
the roar of laughter subsided, 'I call your 
attention to a still more important part of 
t!ii« incident. See,' he said, snapping the 
flattened hat up to its height, 'the lid is not 
broken; I'm losing weight.' " 
• • • 

How It Might Have Been. 

Jack— Great idea that of sending a lot of 
girl* dressed like squaws to Jamestown from 
Oregon! 

Hank — Sure! A great mind that originated 
that idea. Do you know, if that plan had 
been carried out, I was going to start a sub- 
scription to collect a lot of Nez Perce, Uma- 
tilla. Siletz, Klamath and Rogue River 
squaws, real, dirty, wrinkled, pigeon-toed, 
v squaws, you know, and send them back 
to Jamestown, also. Then I would have hired 
two "spielers," one to go along with the 
white girls and say, "Ladies and gentlemen, 
behold the beautiful Oregon Indian. Gare 
on their complexions. If the climate of 
n does that mueh for an Indian, what 
will it do for a white personf " The other 
"spieler" I would send with the real squaws 
to say in answer to the other fellow, "8e« for 
yourselves what it does. These are the white 
people." 

Jnck— Yes, that would do. 8ay, it is too 
bad that old "Mis' Michelle, the last of the 
< latsnps," is .lead, isn't itt 

Hank--WhyT 

J»ck_ What a jim-dandy of a ehaperone 
»he would have made for those white squaws! 



HIGHEST 

IN 
AMERICA. 

The manufacture ol film 
(o the Kodak standard re- 
quires perfect basic mater- 
ials. 

To insure such materials 
we make them ourselves, 
even to the acids. The 
manufacture of these acids 
made necessary the highest 
stack In America -366 feet 
from foundation to top. 

This stack is simply typ- 
ical of the perfection in every 
department of our film 
plant. Special machinery, 
special buildings, access to 
the methods and formulae 
of the best plate makers in 
the world— all are at the 
command of our film 
makers. Back of all this 
is more than 20 years' ol 
lilm experience. The result 
is Kodak N. C. Film, the 
only film rated by experts 
as equaling the speed of the 
lastest plates. 

Tht film sou use is mart 
important than tht camera 
you ust. 

Look for "Kodak" on 
the spool. 

EASTMAN KODAK CO. 
Rochester. N. Y. 
Tht Kodak Cits. 




THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



The Eye to Specify 

When you waiit that satisfied, comfortable 
feeling that your clothes are properly 
fastened, without gap, pucker or wrinkle, 
insist on having 

dfft'c patent rvrc 

rTlEil a INVISIBLE LI Ed 

Ever present when needed. Will not rnst. Better 
than common eyes or Bilk loops. It's all In the 
Triangle. Sold at all stores or by mail, all sizes, 
black or white — 2doz. Eyes 6c. 
with Spring Hooks inc. Sold 
only m envelopes. 

PEET BROS., 

Dept. R 

Philadelphia. 

<v a / 






DEAFNESS 



/ 




The Morley 'Phone" 

A miniature Tele- 
phone for the Ear, 
invisible, easily ad- 
justed, and entirely 
comfortable. Makes low sounds 
and whispers plainly heard. Over fifty 
thousand sold, giving instant relief 
from deafness and head noises. There are but few 
cases of deafness that cannot be benefited. 
Write for booklet and testimonials 
THE MORLEY COMPANY, Dept. 100 
31 South 16th Street, Philadelphia 



RECAMIER CREAM 




For the Complexion 

Will cure a bad 
skin and pre- 
serve a good 



~R£AM 




Used by cele- 
brated beauties 
fornearacentury 

For Sale Everywhere. 

Two sizes— 
50c and $1 -OO 



Recamier Manf'g. Co., No. 127 W. 31st St., N. Y. City 

Send for free sample and interesting illustrated booklet 



•NQ.1 I I I I 



* 



®, 



A Pin with a Handle J 

Supersedes Tacks mj^J 

Moore Push=Pins 

GLASS heads, STEEL points 

For fastening up CALENDARS, small pictures, 
posters, draperies, match-scratchers, and num- 
berless "little things," without disfiguring 
wood or plaster walls. 

At Stationery, Honse-fnrnishinjf, Notion and 
Photo-sui'ply Stores, or mailed prepaid for 10c per 
Packet of % doz., or 20c per box of one 
doz. No. 1 or No. 2 like cuts. 

Moore Push-Pin Co., 169 1 llth St., Phila., Pa. 



■F¥ 




Cured of Good Intentions. 

' ' Catch me giving my seat in a street car 
to a woman again," growled the short, fat 
bachelor to a group of his fellow clubmen. 

"What's the matter now?" asked the taH, 
thin one. ' ' Some old maid been making 
hints about men occupying seats while women 
stand?" 

"Naw. Nobody ever had a chance to say 
that about me. I was always very particular 
about getting up and offering my seat to 
women." 

"The pretty ones?" 

"Yes, and the plain ones, the old, the 
young, and the middle-aged. But I've quit. 
They may stand ten deep all around me 
after this, and I'll never budge. They may 
make hints about hogs, they may step on my 
corns, they may jostle my newspaper, but 
I '11 be stone deaf and purblind to their com- 
ments. I'm done with the whole bloomin' 
sex." 

"Poor sex." 

"Yes, sir; done with the whole caboodle. 
Done, I tell you, done." 

"It is awfully tough on a fellow, you know, 
a bachelor especially, when a woman asks 
him to hold her baby for her, and in a street 
car above all places," said another unsym- 
pathetic one. 

"Hold her baby!" exclaimed the bachelor 
in scorn. "Hold your grandmother's knit- 
ting needle! It wasn't anything like that. 
I was sitting down reading my paper." 

"A man always is when he doesn't want 
to see a woman standing." 

' ' I was reading my paper and did not no- 
tice that all the seats were occupied and that 
a woman was standing near where I sat. As 
soon as I saw her, I rose and politely offered 
her my seat. She looked at me an instant, 
and then said, 'No, thank you. This is my 
corner also.' The impudent, sarcastic 

huzzy!" 

• .# # 

Casus Belli. 

B inks— Well, how are you and that new 
girl getting along now? 

Jinks — Not getting along. 

Binks — How's that? She hasn't thrown 
you down, has she? 

Jinks — I dont know what you call it, but 
she returned my ring this morning. I rather 
expected it, however. 

Binks— Why? 

Jinks — Oh, she 's a telephone girl. Dont, 
dont hit me! I was only joking. 

* * * 

Not Surprised. 

Captain (to mate) — There 's a storm com- 
ing up. 

Passenger (on the rail) — Wouldn't be sur- 
prised. Lots of things have come up that I 
dont remember having eaten. 



T1IK PACIFIC MONTHLY ADVERTISING SKcTION. 



The Biggest Kind of a Change that 
ever Happened to Any Magazine 
has Happened This Month to 



THE 

SCRAP 

BGOK 



L_ 



THE SCRAP BOOK for July is issued in two sections — two com- 
plete magazines, each with its own cover and its own table of contents. 

One of these sections is an ALL-ILLUSTRATED magazine; the other is an Ahlr 
FICTION magazine. Each is a mammoth magazine in itself. The one presents an 
overwhelming array of human interest articles and illustrations; the other an enormous 
tannage of fiction— 160 pages of absorbing stories. 

Ten years ago I created a new type of magazine — the ALL-FICTION magazine. 
Now I am creating another distinct type — the ALL-ILLUSTRATED magazine. This is 
the age of specialization. The conventional magazine, with its muttering of illustrations 
and its smattering of fiction and its smattering of special articles, doesn't contain enough 
of anyone thing to make it satisfying The AI.I.-FICTION magazine and the ALL- 
II.I.rSTRATI-.D magazine, joined together as a unit, strengthen each other, and make 
something really big and forceful and convincing. 

The Only Way to Know a Thing is to Try It 

The two-section magazine idea is brand-new to the world. It is not quite new with 
tne, however, as I have given it, at odd times, four or five years of thought It first 
came into my mind in response to a desire to couple, in some way, the strength of the 
.ill-ti tion magazine with the illustrated features of the conventional magazine. It has 
been a difficult problem to work out. Now that the idea is perfected, I wish to see what 
there is in it. It looks to me to be very good, but the only way to know a thing is to try it. 

Two Magazines for a Quarter — Easy Money 

The price of this two-part magazine is twenty-five cents, which is 
equal to twelve and one-half cents a magazine. Most magazines 
which were selling at ten cents have been advanced to fifteen cents. 
THE SCRAP BOOK In two parts means two magazines for twenty- 
five cents against thirty cents for two fifteen cent magazines. 

Now Ready on all News-stands 
FRANK A. MUNSEY. New York 

Do not forget to mention The Pacific Monthly when dVallnc with adiertleera. It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



Buckskin Shoes 




Styles 

for 

Men, 

Women 

and 

Children 



For Outing 

or General 

Wear 



This Is the Men's 
Shoe, in Sixes 4 
to 12, -widths A A 
to E- Price $4 



Ideal shoes for outing and general 
summer -wear. Light and cool, very- 
durable — made on anatomical lasts 
which ensure freedom and comfort 
to the feet. Made in both pearl and 
tan buchsRin — high cut, extra high 
cut and oxford styles — and button and 
lace styles for children. 

Write for Catalogue C for BucHsHins and other 
outinB boots and shoe*. For Catalogue if 
you want our general footwear Catalogue. 

"WetHerby-Rayser Shoe Co. 

215-217 South Broadway 

Los Angeles, California 



THERE ARE NONE! 

Just as good 

When the dealer tells 
you his is just as good, 
he admits the superiority 
oftheKREMENTZ. It is 
the standard of the world. 



KREMENTZ 




EHf BUTTON 

contains more gold and will 
outwear any button made. 
E-Oery button injured. 
It stands the test of acid and 
time as no other button 
. Quality stamped on 
back. Be just to your- 
self, take only the 
Krementz. All dealers. 

Booklet tells all aSout 
them FREE. 

KREMENTZ & CO. 
97 Chestnut St. 
Newark. N. J. 





Ever Hear Him? 

"Say, I aint no kicker, but when things 
get to going the way they has been lately, 
then I've got to say something. Why, dad 
burn it, just look at the railroads! See how 
they 've been puttin' the whole country on 
the bum, robbin' the poor people, and makin' 
the rich richer. Look at the way they 've 
been tryin' to save money, too, hirin' cheap 
labor and wreckin' their trains and losin' 
hundreds of lives by doin' it. No, sir, it aint 
right. They ought to be stopped." 

"But they are being taken to task. See 
what the President did to Harriman." 

"Yes, and see what he tried to do to some 
of the best men in the country, the common 
laborer. Called them 'undesirable citizens,' 
classed them with Harriman! Humph! By 
gosh, that aint right. Them rich law-breakers 
ought to be brung to time, they ought, but 
when the poor man gets in trouble, he ought 
to be gave a fair show. It 's all right to 
jump onto Harriman and that bunch of rob- 
bers, but it aint all right to land on the 
laborin' man with both feet that a- way, so 
it aint. No, I aint no kicker, but I've got a 

kick eomin'." 

e # * 

The Contrary. 

She is an exceptionally bright child, but 
her manner of saying witty things relieves 
her of the serious charge of precocity. One 
day she had an appointment to meet her 
mother at a downtown restaurant for a late 
lunch. When they arrived there, whom should 
they encounter but a certain person who 
always rubbed the little girl the wrong way 
and who was naturally very unpopular with 
her. However, like the little lady that she 
is, she put on a smile and made the best of 
an awkward situation. 

That evening she related the chief incident 
of the day to her father, and did not fail to 
mention the unfortunate part of it. 

"How did you happen to meet her there?" 
he asked. "By appointmentt" 

"No," she replied, as quick as a flash, 

"by disappointment." 

•i - ft . * 

The Mean Thing. 
Mr. Grouchly — I see in the paper that ra- 
dium is probably the most expensive sub- 
stance in the world. 

Mrs. Grouchly — Indeed! What does it costt 
Mr. Grouchly — It says here $10,000 an 
ounce. But I dont believe that. 
Mrs. Grouchly — Why? 

Mr. Grouchly — Well, women haven't be- 
gun to wear it on their hats yet. 
What? 
* ft 

Of your wisdom give me just a dash. 
If m-u-s-t-a-c-h-e clearly spells mustache, 
Then put me wise for heaven's sake 
And tell me what does m-u-s-t a-c-h-e maket 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 





Rocaford. 111. 
It sire*) me pieajnre to endorse yoar 
" Hoc" Tonic as the beat m«lt run..! I 
ha»e uaed la my loon— a ymn prac- 
tice. I hare often preerrlbed It for my 
patients, bat never was *o fully con- 
vinced of lt» merit* as when 1 tried it 
myscirfordyspoptJcaiMlsu>fnach trou- 
ble*, from which I suffer, fvpeetelljr 
during: the hot weather. 

W. K. Kuuu» M. D. 



Loss of appetite is nature's first warning of indigestion. YY 
the forerunner of dyspepsia. This disease, like nervous- \ » 
ness. is often due to irregular living, improper food and I 
inattention to diet. The digestive organs are inert, the 
weakened membranes of the overtaxed stomach are unable 
to perform their functions, and the food you force yoursell 
to eat distresses instead of nourishes. Nothing will do 
more to stimulate the appetite and aid digestion than 

raixst Extract 

•fte-JesTTonlc 

Combining the rich food elements of pure barley malt 
with the tonic properties ol choicest hops, the nourishment 
offered in this predigested form Is welcomed by the 
weakest stomach, readily assimilated by the blood and its 
food tor the nerves and muscles is quickly absorbed by the 
tissues. At the same time, the digestion ol other foods is 
aided by promoting the flow ol digestive juices, while the 
tonic properties ol the hops create an appetite and tone up 
the system, thus assuring a speedy return ol health. 

Paftsi Extract 

ftic "Best Tonic 

creates an appetite, aids in the digestion of other foods, 
builds up the nerves and muscles of the weakened stomach 
and conquers dyspepsia. It brings strength to the weak 
and overworked, induces relreshing sleep and revives 
the tired brain. 

F»r Sat* ef *// Ltajinf Drugftti 
In tut t/pea th« Orteinaf 

Guarsateed under the Nstioaa) Pure Food Lew 

U S S.n.1 No. 1931 



FREE PICTURE AND BOOK 



Send «» Tour name oa ■ foetal tor our interesting Booklet end 
Adveeture a beautiful picture of baby life. Both FREE. 



B.bv 
Addr 



Firrt 



PABtVT EXTRACT DEPT 



Milwaukee. Wle. 



Don t forjet to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing with advertisers. It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 




Hammerless Repeating Rifle 



H' 



_^ .22 Calibre 

ERE is one of the lightest repeating rifles made. 

It shoots short, long and long rifle cartridges, and 

ejects the shell at the side, away from the lace. It 

has a safety like a shot gun — the trigger is always under 

control. For boys or for men there is no safer gun. 

The top is tightly closed and smooth — no chatce for dirt to 
get in, no hammer to catch in clothes. You can carry maga- 
zines loaded with all three kinds of cartridges in your pocket and 
change instantly. Each magazine shoots seven shots, and stops and 
indicates automatically when empty. The parts are remarkably 
simple and positive in action. 




Rifles are the only ones made with all these highly desirable features. You 
need only ask the dealer to show you a Savage and compare it with others to 
be convinced of its acknowledged superiority. 

It has the popular pistol grip and stock of American walnut, not stained 
maple. Dealers will frankly tell you that there is no better all around shooting 
rifle. Weighs only 5)4 pounds, has 24-inch octagon BROWNED, NOT blued barrel, 
and rifle butt plate. 

Price with two magazines, $12 00. Extra magazines, 25c. 

An unusually interesting catalogue for your name and address on a postal. 



SAVAGE ARMS COMPANY, 



257 Savage Avenue, Utlca, N. Y. 




"She can see him, but he can't see her." 



"How to Cool a Hot Porch" 

^^^ is the title of our free booklet, which we know 

P Twill interest you if you have a veranda. It 

mJ tells how to make your porch the most inviting 

t y\ spot about the house this summer by the use of 

TRASS mSIEGlQF MAKK 

Porch Shades 

These shades shut out the hot sun, but 
-^are constructed to admit every passing breeze 
that blows. Made of Linden Wood Fibre and 
Seine Twine, durable and weatherproof, 
stained in soft, harmonious colors. Easily adjusted to any porch in a few minutes, and may 
be used season after season. You can equip your porch at the moderate cost of from $2 to $10. 
■\r i jfj 1 are built on the "made-to-wear" principle. The supporting 

VU&OY riClTnjnOCKS cords are fastened direct to a Rock Elm spreader, as is also the 
body. This gives double the life to the Vudor Hammock, as it is especially strong where other 
hammocks are especially weak. Vudor Hammocks sell at $3.00 and $4.00 and are guaranteed 
to wear twice as long as any other hammock on the market. 

tr j /-»i • ww w give the luxurious ease of a Morris chair, with the gentle, swaying motion 

VUOor C/iair namtnOCRS of a hammock. They conform to every movement of the body, andean bo 
adjusted to any angle. Simple in construction and may be instantly hung up on the wall when not in use. _ For 
complete relaxation and restfulness, the Vudor Chair Hammock cannot be excelled in any piece of porch furniture, 
If your dealer can't supply you, we'll send you one, express prepaid, for S3.50. 

CAUTION— Inferior products— bamboo shades which let in the sun and do not retain their shape or color and 

cheaply constructed hammocks are sometimes sold by unscrupulous dealers as Vudor goods. Look for the 

Vudor trademark on an aluminum plate on every genuine Vudor Shade or Chair Hammock and on the printed 

label sewed to every Vudor Hammock. It means quality in porch equipment, and it's there for your protection. 

Prepare now for the hot summer — write for our free booklet, 

"How to Cool a Hot Porch," and the name of nearest Vudor dealer. 

^HOUGH SHADE CORPORATIO N, 84 McKey Boulevard, Jane.ville, Wisconsiny 

Don't foreet to - mention The Pacific Monthly when denllng witL advertisers. It will be appreciated. 



TUE LIOHTEB Ml.h. 



You Never Can Tell. 

I'll.- professional humorist sat nervous and 

ax] tap! "" the edge of his chair. He 

turned a»d brushed his hat time and again, 

but all the time he kept his eyes on the face 

of the man seated near him. This individual 

had a long, cadaverous face, high forehead, a 

hard, unyielding mouth, and wore glasses. 

I stuek a blue pencd, 

and behind the other u red one. He was 

reading some manuscript, but from the tight- 

g .if the muscles of his mouth, he was 

getting much pleasure from the process. 

Finally he threw the manuscript on the 
desk in front of his visitor, and looked at 
him vindictively; but not a word did he 
utter. 

The professional humorist gathered up his 
papert and, with disappointment mingled 
with hunger on his face, turned to go. At 
the door ha paused and, looking at the other, 
said, more in sadness than in anger: 

••WYI1, if I were the editor of a funny 
paper and couldn't take a joke, I would 

. M." 

"Here," yelled the editor, joyfully. 
"come back. I'll give you ten dollars for 

that our." 

• • • 

Satisfied. 
" Y.-. - ' remarked the Cheerful Idiot. "I've 
had my share of hard luck, as every one else 
in the world has. I've had to make my own 
way in the world. I've done everything from 
dinning ditches to washing dishes. I've been 
on the verge of making my fortune time and 
again, but I never got over the verij.-. I 

ri a widower three times and my present 
wife has poor health. I've be«n burned out 
twice when I had no insurance. I've been 
hit by an automobile, run away with by a 
horse, ami crowded off the platform of a 
streetcar. I've had ptomaine poisoning, 
mumps, measles, scarlet fever, appendicitis, 
typhoid fever, pinkeye, whooping cough and 
an Ingrowing toe nail. 

" \-< I said, I think I've had my share of 
what is commonly rilled hard luck, but I 
dont think I ever had any real trouble, 
hair continues to cover the same area that it 
originally covered on my head, my teeth arc 
goi'd and sound, and the only trouble I have 
with my stomach is in keeping it full. I 
guess I have no kick coming, chf" 

• • • 

Little Pitchers. 
Pater — My boy, you must not do these 
thinirs. They are wrong. When I was a boy 
I always did as I was told. 

FUin* Was Ma like that, toot 

inly she was. 
Filius — How old were you when you quit 
doing it f 



C 'he 



HAIR TEST 




A famous mrgfcal-inatniment maker 
of Brooklyn, New ^ ork, has 
produced a new Ready Razor — 
the RAZAC — a safety razor that is safe. 
A simple silver-plated holder all in one 
piece. A blade adjustment that will suit 
any face — blades of Swedish razor-steel, 
rigid and firm as a surgeon's knife and 
brought to a temper and edge quite impos- 
sible with flexible blades. Repeated hair 
tests are made in perfecting each RAZAC 
blade. Apply a hair to one yourself and 
note the sharp clean way it is severed. 

Anyone can use this little instrument. 
It will clean the face of every vestige of 
hair and stubble — simply, quickly, pleas- 
antly, and leave* it as smooth as the palm 
of your hand. A clean, cool shave, DO 
matter how tough or wiry the beard. N 1 1 
stropping, no honing. No trouble at all. 

RAZAC 

THE NI.W READY RAZOB 
Nothing to it but Shave 

You can't get away from the plain farts 
about the RAZAC "o matter how you are now 
shaving — whether at the barber's, at home with 
the regular razor, or with one of the old-model 
safeties. 

The price of the RAZAC is $3.50. Try 
it for thirty days and if at the end of that time 
for any reason you arc willing to part with it we 
will refund your money. Cjood drugstores, cut- 
lery, and hardware dealers want K A/A( S faster 
than wc can make them. 

Send for the new little RAZAC Book. It 
explains and illustrates even-thing you'd like to 
know about shaving. You needn't enclose any 
stamps. Just say you want the book. 

HAH.OODS SALES CO. 

Suite 14<>, 305 Broadway, New York 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



Her Paragon. 

She was bragging about her maid. "And, 
you know, she is so careful about all the lit- 
tle nice things. She never makes a mistake 
when visitors come. She knows just what 
to do, whether I am at home or not. She is 
so polite and sweet, and so thoughtful, too. ' 
Keally, she is a paragon. I dont think 1 ever 
saw her equal." 

A few days later, the lady to whom these 
remarks were addressed had occasion to pay 
a party call at the house where this perfect 
maid was employed. The maid opened tho 
door and informed the caller that the lady 
of the house and her sister who was visiting 
her were out; and, as the caller expected, 
held out a small silver platter to receive her 
cards. Naturally she placed two cards upon 
it, and was turning to go, when this thought- 
ful maid addressed her politely: 

"Oh, haven't you made a mistake? You 
have left two cards. Maybe they were stuck 
together and you didn't notice." 

The caller broke the news to her as gently 

as she could. 

# * # 

For Instance. 

"The audience never knows," remarked 
the renowned prima donna, "what a singer 
who becomes famous has to put up with." 

' ' A tenor who persists in eating garlic, for 
instance," remarked the irreverent reporter. 



In June. 

"James," said his mother in that tone 
which James knew well and liked not, "you 
have been swimming again." 

James started to reply, but was cut short. 

"Now, it is of no use for you to say that 
you haven't, because I know you have. Your 
hair is wet, your ears are full of sand, and 
your shirt is on wrong side out." 

"Yes, but—" 

"I dont want any 'buts' about it. Come 
along." 

James was hard put and was doing a deal 
of hard thinking. "What for?" he asked, 
to gain time for further thought, 

"You know very well what for. Come 
along." 

"Say, Ma," he said, persuasively, "dont 
you remember readin' in the paper about the 
Judge sendin' that man to jail because 
everything looked like he had stole some 
money, and they found out afterward that it 
wasn't him but another feller that took it?" 

"Come along." 

"Oh, gee whizz! You can 't never make a 
woman see nothin'." 

• * # 

He Saw. 

She — George, I'm easy to get along with if 
I am treated well. 

He — What do you want? Ice cream soda 
or a box of candv? 




FRANCIS G. LUKE 
Gen'l Manager 



$501335 



some money 



for 



you 



Syracuse, Utah, March 23, 1907. 
francis G. Luke, General Manager, 

Merchants Protective Association, Salt Lake City, Utah. 
Dear Sir : — I take pleasure in acknowledging receipt of 
#5> OI 3-35 collected by you from the railroad company for the 
death of my husband. The largest amount the company 
would offer me before you took charge of this case was $2000. 
I desire to express my sincere thanks for your efforts in this 
matter and will gladly recommend your institution to all 
others in need of such service. Mrs. Mary Ann Frew. 



We attend to the adjustment of all kinds of 
actions and accounts everywhere. We can collect 
if you turn in your claims. Write, or see us. 



In very important matters our special representative will call on you. 

Merchant's Protective Association 

SCIENTIFIC COLLECTORS OF HONEST DEBTS 
Commercial National Bank Building, Salt Lake City, Utah, U. S. A. 

FRANCIS Or. LUKE, General Manager 
"8ome People Don't Like Us." 



Do not forget to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing with advertisers. It will be appreciate.!. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



When You Buy 




SOCKS 



You pay an established, advertised price for them, no matter where or of whom 
they are purchased. 

All <fl~fc-g - dealers must therefore make a uniform profit and the buying public gets a 
square deal and honest goods. 

Wouldn't you rather know the price of an article is regular — everywhere — than to be 
fooled into paying an extra profit now and then, a little more than the store around the 
cornet charges ? 

There is no denying the superiority of £' **"$ ' Socks. They have 

been Standard for wear and fastness of color for nearly thirty years. 

Even the dealer who is prejudiced against making a small 

profit, will not and dare not dispute our 

claims for honest made, honest 

priced «cu*~g - Socks. 

Each pair branded, sold 
in the United 
States every- 
where. 



i 



STYLES 

1 9*9 — Famous SnowbUck. will 

not crock « fade. 
3S8 — Rich Navy Blue. 
SP 1 - Pure White lns.de. Black and While Clerical 

Mature Outside. 
5P14 — Black and Cardinal Mixture Outside. Cardinal Inside. 
19F20— Black Ground with Neat Embroidered Figure* in Cardinal Silks. 
D9 — Navy Blue with Fine Bleached White Ha» Line Stripes. 



Made in sizes 

9 to //', 

inclusive 



Q \A L Pi I If »ot procurable from yours, let us send you 6 assorted pairs on trial for $1.50 ; 

JO IQ Py UealerS j^,^, c h» rgel paid lo any part of U. S. upon receipt of price, or 25c per 
single pair. Made from Combed Selected Cotton. 

When you order direct, state site 



OUR FREE 
coM us ■ whole lot of 
lo hftv* one. It it 

P -/ at. . 1 n .1 m . mJ 

ar«i tn^rwrnals''*! I our n 


CATALOGUE 
money and we want >ou 
■cry attracrva and useful, 
replete with style*. ptiott, 
ame no • postal will bnog it. 



Shaw Stocking Co. 

27 Smith St., Lowell, Mass. 



Do not forget to mention Tbe Pacific Monti, lj when dealing with adrertlaen. It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



fiEHtAN£EttlNESE 
JAQt JEWELRY 

Buy Jade at the gateway of Chinese 
imports and save money. You take no 
risk as we guarantee satisfaction or re- 
fund your money promptly. Finest deep 
Green Jade with Pure Gold 
(24 Karat fine) Mountings. 
Made by Chinese workmen 
under our personal super- 
vision. 

Extremely Fashionable 
Intrinsically Valuable 

Rings, Brooches, Pendants, 
Bracelets, Scarf Pins, etc. Every 
design artistic and seldom two 
patterns alike. We ship selection 
packages, express prepaid, for ap- 
proval. Learn to buy the best 
Chinese Jade — Beautiful Souvenir 
Leaflet "Jade" and SO page Jewel- 
ry Catalog No. 5 free on request. 

Brock ®> Feagans 

Importing Jewelen 

Broadway and Fourth St.. 
Los Angeles, California 




Producing 




SOUTHERN 
CALIFORNIA 

Where Ml the 
Conditions 
Are Ideal 



Write for illustrated literature of the silk indus- 
try. Interesting, instructive, and full of matter of 
interest to every American. Sent free on request. 
MAIL ORDER. DEPARTMENT 

36 inch Black Taffeta, pure dye silk $2.00 yard 
Free delivery anywhere. Satisfaction guaranteed 
or money refunded. Samples of dress silks sent 
on request. 

Curtis Silk Farms 

Dept. A 

Los Angeles, California 



All the Thanks They Get. 

Binks — Say, Chicago University has a lot 
of hard luck, dont it? 

Jinks — I dont know. Why? 

Binks — Well, just to show you. Only re- 
cently its president, the man who built it up, 
died. Now, just when it is recovering from 
that blow, along comes old John D. and forces 
two million dollars on the trustees. It 's an 
awful load to have to carry, the friendship of 
John D. 

Jinks — Guess you are right. There is just 
one thing laeking now to complete its load 
of tough luck. 

Binks — What 's that? 

Jinks — A slight token of Andy's desire to 

squeeze through the eye of that needle. 

* • j # 

From Choice. 

Ex-Senator (making a speech) — Yes, my 
friends and fellow-citizens, T am proud and 
happy to say that once more I am a pri- 
vate citizen. No longer do the responsibili- 
ties of the government and control of this 
great nation rest upon my shoulders. For 
years, though, I have been honored in serving 
your interests in the national capital, I have 
felt the burden growing more and more se- 
vere. I began to realize that it was making 
me an old man before my time. But now that 
I have decided to retire from public life, I 
feel like a boy again. And the best of it all 
is that I do it from choice, from free choice. 

Unappreciative Constituent — Who gave you 

the hunch? 

» * * 

The Way of the Old World. 

"It is all right," remarked the Impecuni- 
ous Title-Wearer, "it 's all right about that 
saying that where your heart is there will 
your treasure be also. Yes, it 's all right 
about that. No one can find fault with that 
so long as it applies only to things of the 
world beyond. But on this mundane sphere 
somehow things are different. 

"I've noticed," he continued after a long 
pause, during which he seemed to reflect 
deeply, "I've noticed that, with men of the 
old and titled families of the old country, 
where the treasure is there somehow we man- 
age to make our hearts be — or seem to be," 

he added as an afterthought. 

* * * 

Not Regular. 
Snow — Tippler is a pretty regular drinker, 
is n't he? 

Shaw — Quite the contrary. He mixes 'em 

all the time. 

* * * 

Says Uncle Kastus. 
Dey say dat er rollin' stone dont gadder 
no moss, but I has 'bserbed dat er movin' 
fam'ly gadders er heap ob truck dat aint no 
mo' count dan moss. 



THK LIGHTER SIDE. 



Bald Bobby. 

Bobby was only six, but he bad a way of 
thinking for himself. One aubjeet on which 
he aeemed to have reached a decided con- 
clusion was that of lying. He lied with or 
without provocation and with the greatest 
facility. The punishment which this practice 
brought upon him seemed to have absolutely 
no effect. 

One day after he had told his mother an 
unusually barefaced story, she took him upon 
her lap and talked to him about it. 

"Bobby," she said, seriously, " tlont you 
know where little boys who lie go when they 
diet" 

"No," replied Bobby mendaciously, for 
he had been repeatedly warned about his fu- 
ture. 

' ' w 'hy. yes you do, dear. They go to hell. ' ' 

"And where do the people that dont lie 
got" 

"They go to heaven." 

Bobby thought a moment, then remarked, 

"Gee, bat. wont us kids have a picnic I" 

• • • 

That *s Why. 
Son — Pa, why do cats have nine livest 
Father — In order that they may outlive 
the old mai'ls. 



Willing to Please. 

She met him at the head of the stuir*. He 
was ascending on all fours, and of eonrti iU 
not sen her until he reached the top. By the 
time that he regained his feet and stood up- 
right, a process which to him was long and 
laborious, be had nerved himself for the 
ordeal. 

"Yoo. beast!" she hissed, scornfully. 
"Look me in the face." 

"M'dear, you are — hie — mos' 'mark'ble 
worn 'n. You 've got more beau-beau 'f ul 
fashes zhan any wom'n I— hie — -ever shaw, 
an' I — hie — take great pleazher in lookin' 

in — hie — all of them at shame time." 

• » • 

An Accident. 

Little Susan's auntie said to her one day: 
"Little Susan, dear, will you run upstairs 
and get my book for met You are so sweet." 

"Oh, auntie," replied Susan in a tone of 
disappointment, "you are just like everybody 

else; you have an ax to dent." 

• • • 

Did You Ever Notice 

That the fattest, squattiest men always 
wear the fattest, squattiest hatst 

That the tallest, thinnest women always 
wear the princess gownt 




Don't foreet to mention The Pacific Monthly wbra dealing with adTertlaera. it will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



TRADE MARK 




■::: 




Summer 
Underwear 



LE.TS YOUR BODY BREATHE 

through its air holes. You will never know true coolness 
and cleanliness until you put on air-free, self-drying, odor- 
banishing, i/otoiMUr Ask your dealer and look for the 
label '(Jhffikiut' If he does not sell it, write for free sam- 
ple of the fabric and booklet, "Inside Information." 

CHALMERS KNITTING COMPANY, 16 Washington Street, Amsterdam, N. Y. 




Are You Going to Build? 



Complete plans specifi- 
cations and details of 
this 7 room bungalow 
only SIS. 00, cost to 
build about S1750 com- 
plete ready to occupy. 
Send 50 cents in silver 
for my 1907 book con- 
taining 75 of the best 
house, cottage and bun- 
galow plans of houses 
costing from $400 to 
49.000. 



V. W. VOORHEES, Architect 

22-25 Eitel Building, SEATTLE, WASH. 




**■>/ n* p/.* 



Opportunities 
For Settlers 



Is the title of a booklet that has just 
been published by the Portland Railway, 
Light & Power Company. 

There are golden opportunities for 
farmers, dairymen and fruitgrowers 
within easy reach of Portland, on the 
rich farming and fruit lands along the 
Oregon Water Power lines of the Port- 
land Railway, Light & Power Company. 

A market for every variety of farm 
and garden product is readily found in 
Portland, and low rates over the O. W. P, 
lines, coupled with quick transportation, 
enable the farmer to realize large prof- 
its. 

Reliable information concerning tim- 
ber lands, farn^s, stock ranches, fruit 
lands and all kinds of suburban prop- 
erty situated adjacent to the O. W. P. 
lines will be gladly supplied. 

For copies of booklet write to 
W. P. KEADY. Land Agent 

Portland Railway Light & Power 
Company 

First and Alder Streets, Portland, Oregon 



The Harper System 

of body building 
makes women 

Graceful 

and 

Healthy 

makes men 

Comely 

and 

Strong 

It reduces obes- 
ity, cures indi- 
gestion, con- 
quers nervous- 
ness, produces 

HEALTH 

No Drugs, Apparatus or Medicine 

My home treatment is as thorough as that given 

f>ersonally at my office by means of my illustiated 
essons. System can be practiced at home or in the 
office without inconvenience. If you are in bad 
health stop drugging your stomach. Write or con- 
sult me and I will prescribe special lessons for different 
conditions. Booklet, references.terms, etc. .mailed free 

C. H. Harper 

639 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, Calif. 




Do not forget to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing with advertiser*. It will be appreciated. 



THK LIOHTEB BIDE. 



Compliments of the Day. 
Mike— Oi say, I'at, phut 's th' manlier 
will y'er 

I'at — Sure, an' it 's all Casey's fault, it K 
Be 's color blind, Casey is. Him an' 
me was bavin' a few drinks in honor av 
Pathrick last Sunday, and I'aaey says 
., sayi be, ••I'at, oi '11 I. it yi-z I can 
:i 11 ii \t lii [i ' grnne that yez name." 
• • N that sof" says Oi. 
"Yin, that 's so," says be. 
"Well," says Oi, not likin' Casey's tone, 
tM« y.'z try niakiii' ma eye pane." And 

will that be sot to wor-rk re-deeoratia' 

Hut as Oi says, Casey is color blind. 

Be maile it l.laik 'stead av grane. But all 

•«e, Casey 's wearin' wan ear and a 

that has a pronounced orange tinge to 

thim." 

• • a 

Just Think. 
"Wtahed I swaad one of them nutomo- 
■aid shuffling Sam, as he lay on bis 
hark in the shade of a tree and looked up 
at the sky. 

"What f erf" asked Plodding Pete in the 
■mate position, but with bis tattered hat over 
his face. 

"<'li, just so I could get in it and go 
buzzing round the country, runnin' over DM 
pie, nml eows anil chickens and things, and 
■t doin' nothin' but settin' up there and 
to.. Ma' the honk. No work, no walkin', no 
nothin' to do. Dat 'ud be heaven." 

V.s. bat jest t'ink," replied Plodding 
'how tough it would be when you 'd 
wake up and find ye'erself ridin' in a empty 
cattle car." 

• • • 

Revenge. 

«.'ui.|- (returning from hunting trip with a, 
city sportsman, and speaking of a dog that 
barked at him) — Ool rap your vnller bide! 
You '11 get me so mad by bark in' at me son,.. 
day that I'll steal you and make you hunt in 
front of one of these sure death fades, 

• • • 

In 1950. 
Impresario (in despair)— Tee, it is sad 

but true. We haven't the big voices we 

had fifty years ago. They are still sweet, 

but they :ir.- small. 

Critle— How do yon account for itf 
Impresario— By 'the fact that the world 

has been living in flats for a generation. 

• • . 
The Horrid Thing. 

Wife— Oeorge, is this dress too short* 
1 von wear it longer? 

Husband—Well, considering the pri. 
the dress anil the condition of mv j. 
book, I would suggest that you wear it about 
a year longer. 



resident 
Suspenders "/ 



THE 

BACK 
SLIDES 




Neither warm weal her imr 
Miller affect President 
Suspender ends. Moist - 
ure ami coloring of 
leather stain shirts 
— President »hlle 
I, braided cord cuds 
don't. Sonic men 
wear belts; not 
that they like belts 
but most suspen- 
ders bind and 
cliuir. Presidents 
rest so liirlitly you 
can't feel them. 

lightweight Summer Presidents weigh 2 oz. Weal 
them instead of a binding belt and you won't have to 
adjust your trousers 50 times a day. 

If you can't get Lightweight Presidents in your city, 
buy of us. After 3 days' wear, if unsatisfactory, return 
for your money. 

BOc a Pair 

Also Medium and Heavyweights. Extra long for 
big men. Special size for youths and boys. 
Th* C. A. Edgirton Mlg. Co., S53 Main Str**t, Shirley, Mass. 



MENNENS 

BORATED TALCUM 

TOILET POWDER 



"YOU'RE SAFE" 

In the hands of the little 
captain at the helm,— the 
"complexion specialist," 
wnoee resalte are certain, 
whoee fees are email. 

MENNEN'S 

Borated Talcum 

TOILET POWDER 

protect* and eoothee, a ear* 
relief from I ■ ■ i, n r n , 
Prlrkl> II, ,,. , |,„ii, 1Ki 
etc. Pot op In non-ri lill- 
mblv limn _ the " box 
.V , " , , lo 5"- ,or yon' protec- 
tion. If Menoen's face is on 
the cover if* g-ennlne and 
» f, n »r»at** of pority. 
D*)UhUol after ■having. 
Oaaraawarf aad.r Poo* a n™ 
AjJ.Jm.Wi**. ku feu 7 
Wm€ er»e*JT»he>f w, or bj m*iL tsW. 

s\mci.i m,i 
G. Menncn Co., Newark, N.J. 

Tr r Mr..,.-. 

'••■'I Itoralad 

T«i.»«|...a rr 

It hit u« arral at 
rraah cat farm* 
VioMa. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



>n> 



WE REPEAT IT 

Go -where you will tor speculative chances in mining, but come 
to the Coeur d Alenes tor substantial profits and dividends. 

IN THE- HEART 

of this wonderful dividend-paying district is located the property of the 
Hector Mining Co., Ltd. This stock is still being offered at the very, very 
low figure of FIVE CENTS per share. This is an exceptional opportunity 
as an investment for the one who is looking for GOOD PROFITS. There 
isn't a better property in the Coeur d'Alenes today with the same amount 
of development. 

BUT, BETTER STILL 

The management of the Hector is the best possible. In fact, it is all 
that you would ask for the bank in which you trust your money, and under 
these conditions we do not hesitate to recommend Hector stock as an in- 
vestment at five cents a share, at which price it does not seem possible to 
remain long. 

Write us immediately for reservation of a block of this stock and fur- 
ther particulars. We know it will pay you. 

PARIS H. RENSHAW ®. CO. 

WALLACE, IDAHO 



10 



One Way. 

Tim — So you have bought an auto, have 
you? 

Tom — Yes, I've joined the ranks of the 
swift ones. 

Tim — You must have made a raise. Dont 
you find it rather an expensive luxury t 

Tom — Oh, no. It costs me only two hun- 
dred a month to keep it in repair. 

Tim — But what about the fines for fast 
driving? They must be enormous. 

Tom — Merely nominal. You see, I married 

the Police Judge's daughter. 

* # * 

Pretty Nearly. 
Tommy — Pa! 
Father— Huh! 
Tommy — Pa! 
Father— Huh! 

Tommy — Pa! Why dont you answer me? 
Father — Well, son, what is it? 
Tommy — Is the Ananias Club the same as 

the Big Stick? 

* # * 

That 's Why. 

Sillicus — How did they ever come to call 
them charity halls, do you suppose? 

Cynicus — That 's easy. They called them 
that becausei at them men are supposed to 
dance with a lot of has-beens out of charity. 



The Source. 

Mrs. Blabit — I simply cannot understand 
how that new neighbor of ours, Mrs. Knowit, 
has found out so much about us all. She has 
been here only a few weeks, and yet she 
knows more about the people of this neigh- 
borhood than those of us who have lived here 
for years. 

Mrs. Teller — That 's easy. Dont you re- 
member that her maid, Jessie Gadabout, has 
worked for us all at different times? Know 
about the neighborhood? I should think she 
would! » * * 

Explained. 

Willie — Pa, what are all those knots on the 
Big Stick? 

Pa — They are not knots, my son. You see, 
the President used to live out in the cattle 
country, and out there some men have a prac- 
tice of cutting notches in the handle of their 
guns whenever they get the best of an enemy. 
The President has so many notches on his 
stick that it looks as if it were covered with 
knots, but really they are only the high places 
between the notches. 

# # * 

Sure. 
Citicus — T say, old fellow, which side of 
the horse do you start to curry first? 
Countrycus — The outside. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 




BUILT 
FOR SERVICE 



You believed your knot »as sharp — but it wasn't. You than 
with the wrong razor anil its name is Dull Edge" which grows duller 
and duller with each successive shave if you don't strop — and strop prop- 
erly. The razor that slices hair and jerks the roots cannot be justified as a successful 
(having tool — and it isn't. 

A CLEAR SMOOTH COMPLEXION IS PRESERVED BY A SHARP RAZOR 
Nobody knows" that battel than tb« limber — and that is why barbefl continue to play a part in the affections 
\nd that is why the barber strops his razor. No razor can survive the wear of a single shave 
unless stropped and be as good for the second shave as for the first — you know that. 

Mn't patronize a birbrr \vli<> didn't have a good sharp razor every time would you? 

THE AUTOSTROP RAZOR IS AN AUTOMATIC EXPERT MECHANICAL BARBER 
Which '■ to automatically sharpen the blade skillfully in spite of your inexperience. 

ITS SIMPLE CONSTRUCTION-NO TAKINC APART FOR 8TROPPINC OR CLEANINC 

To I — just slip the strop through the razor itself and in a "jiffy" it is ready for proper shaving 

d sharpening by any novice and no taking apart to clean either. 

"COMMON SENSE ABOUT SHAVING "-FREE 

It's a ! Hook o( Common Sens*-." briefly written. 

We at"'" anxious to put a copy III the hands of every *haver. Whether out of curiosity or 
■W out ul respect for your own private (ace send a postal with your name and address, 

&•* ^^^-The Complete St (will la*t a lifetime) will be sent you chary * prepaid, on 

*.»/♦,, v ^^n-O'iiii of .'5S tv OR if you prefer, we will send it through your t 
°^ '»^ * ^ V^sjf^^Tftailrr In cither event if for any reason you ww to return 
*■• "0- *a * A /9^^kW ,l aft,r 30 Days' Trial, vmir money will be refunded 

AutoStrop Safety Razor Co 

D..L 74 

341 to 347 Filth Avenue 

New York 







'^itS: 



'• %,'o ♦• *> 



Itntih I 

( tSwaJaf T n.\t Cn 
Nee lork. 







RAZOR-^ 


>-l2CCRTiriED 
BHfjaaj Blades 

SJ^Slrop 


CealherCatcj 


tCa^h. 



ERVOU8NES8 Exhausted or Debiliated 
' " ** V-* w wlw &WW j\j erve Force from Any Cause. 



N Cured by WI\< II r> I I I.'n II V POI'IIOSI'IIII KS OK I.I.MI \Mi SOIM 
(Dr. J. F. CHvaonu.'* Formula) and WIXCHESTEB'8 SPEC II t( II II. 

They contain no Heronry, Iran, Cmnthmrldea, Morphia. Strychnin, Opium, Alcohol, etc. 

TW Seecinc Pill ■ pwerr rateable, he) boa Muud pmenbed bj peyeWenvesrfhMDnmMtobctWbt* sile*m«rfis««<*ctfreti»M»n« 

known to medical iciencc lor reworlat- VTttlitr. no meni r how orlrlnaUr impaired, aa Ii trachea the not <A the ailment. Ow raaedka arc the beat 
ol their ktid. ami contain onlr the be* and pels* Infredleeta tkel money oa bay and Kfcace produce) therefore we cannot ofer tree aaarplea. 

ffEk*}aJ22ti£L No Humbug, C.O.D., or Treatment Scheme. 

•m lor Ih-er and kidney coaphlMa in 
. an I will eadoat are eoUen end will ask yo» to arad o«t se orach 
esjra can by eiprraa prepaid lor that anm. nntii we on ret hraroojh the rrralar channel* I aei conadent k u in* what I hare been In search ol 
far Bamy rears. I am preacrftdnr ynnr H ypoehoephaes of Umeand Soda, and aapleaacd with the preparation. Yoan slncerrly. Dr. T. J. WBST. 

I kaowol no remedy In the whole Materia Medica canal to ronr Speriac PHI lor Nerroo. Debility.— ADOLPII BEHKE. M. D„ Professor 
ol OrranJc Chemistry and Physiology. New York. 

l^'i^eaS!"" Winchester & Co., Chemists. 905 Beekman Bid*., New York. E * t rMl!H bed 



PERSONAL OPINIONS: %?*"• '^.— -»?*-»«»»»«i-i9*--- 



arcorely sealed. 

Don't forrct to mention Tb* Pacific Monthly wben dealing- with advertisers. 



It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY. 



It Is Yours 

I want to mail you my 
market letter for three 
months. It will keep you 
informed as to the conditions 
in the C(EUR d'ALENES. 
It will advise you when to 
buy for a quick profit. It 
advises you when to sell or 
when to hold for a greater 
profit. 

As an illustration of the 
value of the advice my mar- 
ket letter contains, I cite the 
case of Oom Paul. This 
stock was selling at around 
23 cents on February 1st 
when I advised my clients to 
get in. About the 20th of 
February the price had gone 
to around 31 cents and it is 
still going up. I am writing 
this February 27th. Those of 
my clients who have bought 
will clear about 40l CCEUR 
d'ALENE stocks are safe, 
sure and profitable if bought 
on the advice of a broker who 
has practical experience and 
knows the camp thoroughly. 

My market letter costs you nothing if you 
name The Pacific Monthly. 

WM. A. NICHOLS 

t05 Howard Street, Spokane, Wash. 



Some Truth in It. 

They were looking at a catalogue of houses. 
From the close proximity of their heads and 
the deep interest they had in the subject, one 
might have suspected that they intended to 
build or buy a house. 

"Why," she asked sweetly, as she sighed 
and laid her head contentedly on his shoul- 
der, "do they always have so many vines 
growing over these bungalows?" 

' ' For the same reason that a wise man who 
has a thin, spavined horse decks him out in 
a stunning set of harness. He know.s that 

most people will look only at the harness." 

* # ' # 

The Pangs of Hunger 

Plodding Pete — Did youse ever suffer the 
pangs of indigestion, Sam? 

Studious Sam — Ay, me lad, many a time 
and oft as I have traversed the broad thor- 
oughfares of this great land, have I had a 
demon gnawing at me vitals and sapping 
away me precious life. 

Plodding Pete — And youse really had eat 
too much? 

Studious Sam — Nay, me lad, too little. 
That 's what gives you real indigestion; the 

other kind is naught but tummy-ache. 

* * * 

An Oft-Told Tale. 

Sagebrush Sim — Us cowboys is marked men, 
Rattlesnake; we 're doomed. The fences, and 
dudes, and farmers is puttin' an end to us 
and our ways of livin'. 

Eattlesnake Pete — Yup. They aint no fun 
in havin' to git off your horse every twenty 
mile and open a gate. Le 's go further west. 

Sagebrush Sim — Le 's have another drink 
first. 

Eattlesnake Pete — Dont care if I do. How! 

* * # 

Hard to Identify. 

Visitor — So you have a little baby brother, 
have you, Ethel? 
Ethel — Yes 'm. 

Visitor — And what is his name? 
Ethel — We dont know yet. The man that 

brought him lost the tag. 

* * # 

One Reason. 

Jones — Monday seems to be the fashionable 
day at home among the wealthy class, does n't 
it? How do you account for that? 

Johns — That 's easy. They want to show 
the public that they no longer have to do 

their washing on that day. 

* * * 

A Paragon. 

Mrs. Neighborly — And did she leave you 
without giving you warning? 

Mrs. Gadsby — Oh, BO indeed. She warned 
me many times that if I didn't stay at home 
more she would leave me. In that respect, I 
must say that she was a good cook. 



THE PACIFIC Monthly ADVERTISING SE< HON. 



Hammer the Hammer 



Tin- for J. baton untie 

Rnulur won't go off nld 

dililar.itely pull the trigger. I >•> 

tli it and you'll fiml it just as sure 

it i> >.ifc-. The rtrtlghte« t - »h oo tln g i hardetUhit- 

tint;, »'"*t nli.ilili- revolver made to-day. Rightly 
proportioned, beautifully finished; a gentleman's j >i -t. .1 lor 
pocket, desk, or bur 
Our Free Booklet, "Shots," tells more in detail why the for 

Johnson has outstripped competitors in public favor. Our handsome 
catalogue goel with it, showing details o| o CM tWJ 




Ivor Johnson 8afety 
Hammer Revolver 

3-inch barret, nickel. plated finish, 
11 rim-fire cartridge, 31 •»/» AA 
or 38 center-fire cartridge «j)UlUU 

StJJhy ffitr jwap * tind Sorting Goods dealer! ez'rryivhere , or tent f^rrp.iid on rr e:?i 
0/ firui . is-, iuff.j . Lookjor emCl keadongrtf andour name on barrtt. 



Iver Johnson Safety 
Hammorless Revolver 

3-Inch barrel, nickel-plated Aniah, 
32 or 38 center-fire cart- *"t A A 
ndg dl.UU 



IVER JOHNSON'S ARMS A CYCLE WORKS, 192 River St., Fitchburg, Mass. 

N»V"tt:S9('k»mi»r>Str«rt. Ramluira, Qornanr: Plckhnl< m I 

Peclnc Ooaal: UMPark St.. Alameda, Oal. London. England: 17 Miuciun Lane. E.O. 

■akin of Im Johnson Single Barrel Sholggns and Irer Johnson Truss Bridge Bicycles; 



Iver Johnson 

' AUTOMATIC REVOLVER 




LAUNCHES 

Why Not Own a FIRST CLASS Launch and Enjoy Your- 
self on the Ideal Streams in the Pacific Northwest. 



EVERYTHING THAT FLOATS 
EVERYTHING FOR. BOATS 



See Our "Truscott,'' "Shell Lake' and "TAullins Steel' Launches, 
Boats and Canoes, or Send for Catalog. 

R-EIER.SON MACHINERY CO. 

182-4-6 Morrison St... PORTLAND, ORECON 

Do not forget to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing with adTertl«era. It will he appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



It makes The Mountain Smile. 




NEW VIGOR AND STRENGTH IN EVERY DROP 

Seattle Brewing & Malting Company 

SEATTLE, U. S. A. 



Don't forret to mention The Pacific Monthly when dealing with advertisers. It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SKCTION. 



Industrial and Commercial Supremacy is "in the cards" for 

BELLINGHAM 

ON PUGET SOUND 

The jVlun?cijf>a) f^larvel of the Pacific Northwest 




Write to tke 
Jjellingnam 
Chamber or 
Commerce 
for further 
facts 



Population, 1900 11,062 

Population. 1907 ----- 35.000 

Increase, 216 per cent. 
Bellingham's Record of Tremendous Growth 



Value of Manufactures - - 
Value of Marine Skipping - 
National Bank Deposits - - 
Street Railway Passengers 



1 QAA P* r ?*nl Inrreeae 
1VUO overlap. 



$7,751,464 
$9,990,864 
$2,778,857 
3305.063 



Tons Rail and Water Skipping, 772.988 



C 

o 

L 
D 

Assessed Valuation - - $8,271,028 - - 24 
Post Office Receipts - - - $50,136 - - 18 

Average percentage increase 1906 over 1905, 50 

Greatest Industrial Enterprises for the 

Development of Bellingham's Territory 

are Now Under Construction. 



135 
68 
53 
27 
25 



1 907 Record Includes 



34 mdes Interurtan Electric Railway - $2,000,000 
6.000-barrel Cement Factory - - - $3,000,000 
Permanent Street Improvements, already 

authorized -------- $650,000 



The value of New Buildings, first FOUR 

MONTHS of 1907 was $265,045, an 

increase of 133 per cent over the same 

months of 1906 



BELLINGHAM is the Metropolis, Seaport, and 
Heart, of NORTHWEST WASHINGTON, the Rich- 
est. Region in the World. 



WRITR FOR Fl'RTHER INFORMATION TO 

Chamber of Commerce, BeTlingham, vvash. 



Three Transcontinental Railroads 

The Ideal Pacific Coast Harbor 



THIS 15 A SQUARE DEAL 



Do not forget to mention The I'a.irlc Monthly when dealing with adTertlaere. It will be appreciated. 



THE PACIFIC MONTHLY— ADVERTISING SECTION. 



Pure Food Products 

IN TINS AND GLASS 




ALLEN & LEWIS 

PORTLAND, OREGON, U. S. A. 



FOR SALE BY ALL FIRST 
CLASS GROCERS 



Let me sell Your Patent 

My book based upon 16 years ex- 
perience as a Patent Salesman 
mailed FREE. Patent Sales exclu- 
sively. I f you have a PATENT for 
sale call on or write 

WILLIAM E. HOYT 

Patent Sales Specialist 
257 Dun Blag.. New York City 




PATENTS 

" 8ECURED OR FEE RETURNED 

Free opinion as to patentability. Send for Guide Book 
and What To Invent, finest publication (or free distri- 
bution. Patents secured by us advertised free. 

EVANS, WILKENS & CO. 
No. 900 F Street, N. W.. Washington, D.C. 



AUTOMOBILES 

BOUGHT, SOLD AND EXCHANGED 

Thelargest dealers and brokers in New and S conn- 
hand Automobiles in the world. Send for complete 
bargain sheet No. 140. 

TIMES SQUARE AUTOMOBILE CO. 
1599-1601 Broadway, New YOik 



PATENTS 



B»"PR0TECT YOUR IDEA! 

68-Paee <ilIDE BOOK FREE. 

Free Search of Pat. Office Records! 
t f. VHOOMAN, Bo» 65, Wasbineton. D. C. 



Make a Motor 
any Boat in 5 



Boat of 
Minutes 

Here's a little, 2 h.p. marine motor 
(40 lbs. complete) that you can 
attach to the stern post of 
your boat in 5 minutes with- 
outanytools. Drivesani8-ft. 
row boat 7 miles per hour 
(runs 8 hours on one gallon 
gasoline). Can be detached 
from boat just as quickly and 
stored in box in which itiscarricd. 
Simplest motor made— does not 
get out of order. Money-back 
guarantee. Write for catalog 
with full description and price. 

WATERMAN MARINE MOTOR CO. 

1 5 1 1 Fort St. West, Detroit, Mich. 




RIFE AUTOMATIC 
HYDRAULIC RAM 

Pumps water by Water Power. — Runs continuously and auto- 
matically. —Pumping capacity up to 1,000,000 gallons per day. — 
No wearing pans except valves. Highest efficiency of any engine in 
tutf world. — From 60 to 90 percent developed under repeated tests. 

OUR SPECIALTIES: 

Equipping Country Places with 
Complete System Water Works. 
Large Plants forTowus, Institutions 
and Railroad Tanks. 
Large Machines for Irrigations. 

Operatesunderl8in. 
to 50ft. fall. Elevates 
wateriOfeet for each 
foot of fall used, up 
to 500 feet elevation. 
Catalogues and Esti- 
mates free. 

RIFE HYDRAULIC ENGINE CO. 

2155 Trinity Building NEW YORK CITY 





Mcintosh automatic sand- 
cement BRICK MACHINE 

Turn Your Sand Banks Into Cash It Has No Equal 

Daily capacity 20,000 to 30,000 perfect