The Gift of Beatrix Farrand
to the General Library
University of California, Berkeley
Ex
Libris
BEATRIX
JONES
LANDSCAPE
A P^ '--"•- --—"• --J
REEF POINT GARDENS
LIBRARY
s — *
EDITED BY
R. HOOPER PEARSON
MANAGING EDITOR
OF THE GARDENERS*
CHRONICLE
A LIST OF VOLUMES
IN THE SERIES IS
GIVEN ON THE NEXT
PAGE .
'Present-Day gardening
List of Volumes in the Series.
1. SWEET PEAS. By HORACE J. WRIGHT, late Secre-
tary and Chairman of the National Sweet Pea Society.
With Chapter on "Sweet Peas for Exhibition" by THOS.
STEVENSON.
2. PANSIES, VIOLAS, AND VIOLETS. By WILLIAM
CUTHBERTSON, J.P., and R. HOOPER PEARSON.
3. ROOT AND STEM VEGETABLES. By ALEXANDER
DEAN, V.M.H., Chairman of the National Vegetable Society.
4. DAFFODILS. By the Rev. J. JACOB.
5. ORCHIDS. By JAMES O'BRIEN, V.M.H., Secretary
of the Orchid Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society.
6. CARNATIONS AND PINKS. By T. H. COOK, Head
Gardener to H.M. the King at Sandringham ; JAMES
DOUGLAS, V.M.H. ; and J. F. M'LEOD, Head Gardener to
Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.
7. ROSES. By HERBERT E. MOLYNEUX, Member of the
Executive Committee of the National Rose Society.
8. RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS. (The first
popular "volume published on this subject.) By WILLIAM
WATSON, V.M.H., A.L.S., Curator of the Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew.
9. LILIES. By A. GROVE.
These will be followed by volumes on Annuals,
Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Pasonies, Apples and
Pears, Primulas, Cucumbers, Irises, Melons, Hardy
Herbaceous Plants, Tomatoes Bulbous Plants, &c.
ansi&s • violas
G4la Si., VKC.,
LANDSCAPE
AP-HrTCCTtmg1
Farrand GlfT
PLATE I (Frontispiece) A/
FOUR YELLOW VIOLAS
N *xv^
Redbraes Yellow. Maggie Clunas.
Klondyke.
General Baden-Powell.
924
PREFACE
THE title to this volume will not be likely to confuse the
amateur, for, in speaking of the plants, he is accustomed
to use the names in the senses they are now employed.
At the same time, for reasons pointed out by Mr. Cuth-
bertson in his Introduction, the terms cannot be regarded
as appropriate, for in botany the word Viola includes every
section of the genus. In these matters, however, it is
frequently custom rather than botanical science that estab-
lishes practice, and this applies to the present case.
The lowly plants Mr. Cuthbertson treats upon are
amongst the most floriferous, most showy, most pleasantly
fragrant flowers in the outdoor garden, and no one has
more closely studied their culture than the present author.
By including Pansies and Violas in the " Present- Day
Gardening" series, readers are provided for the first time
with coloured plates setting forth the flowers in the most
natural manner photographs can illustrate them.
I am indebted to Mr. W. Irving for notes on some of
the more important species in the genus Viola.
THE EDITOR.
vu
CONTENTS
PAGE
INTRODUCTION i
CHAV.
I. HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE PANSY . . 4
II. THE HISTORY OF VIOLAS 10
III. PANSIES AND VIOLAS FROM SEED . . . .23
IV. CULTIVATION FROM CUTTINGS . . . ; .28
V. CULTIVATION OF CHOICE FLOWERS FOR EXHIBITION
AND OTHER PURPOSES . . . . • 35
VI. PANSIES AND VIOLAS FOR TABLE DECORATION . . 50
VII. FANCY OR DECORATIVE PANSIES .... 54
VIII. THE HARDIEST VIOLAS . . . . . . 64
IX. FIFTY VARIETIES OF VIOLAS . • : . . . , 71
X. THE SWEET VIOLET . . . . . • _ • 77
XI. THE GENUS VIOLA . . . . . . . 98
XII. CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS . . . . . 109
INDEX . . . . . . * . 115
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PLATE
I. VIOLAS — REDBRAES YELLOW, KLONDYKE, MAGGIE
CLUNAS, AND GENERAL BADEN-POWELL Frontispiece
PAGE
II. FANCY PANSIES — MRS. J. SELLARS, ARCHIE MILLOY,
AND R. M'KELLAR J3
III. FANCY PANSIES — Miss NEIL, MRS. J. STEWART,
AND MARGARET FIFE 25
IV. FANCY VIOLAS — LOUIE GRANGER, MRS. CHICHESTER,
KATE HOUSTON, AND DUKE OF ARGYLE . . 45
V. VIOLAS — PURITY, MRS. H. PEARCE, MAD. A. GRAY,
AND SNOWFLAKE 59
VI. VIOLAS — MAGGIE MOTT, ADMIRAL OF THE BLUES,
ARCHIBALD GRANT, AND JENNY M'GREGOR . 73
VII. VIOLETS — MRS. J. J. ASTOR, MARIE LOUISE, PRINCESS
OF WALES, COMTE DE BRAZZA . . . -87
VIII. THREE VARIETIES OF VIOLA CORNUTA . 101
DIAGRAMS ILLUSTRATING THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE PANSY xi
FLORIST'S PANSY OF 1841 . 6
THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE PANSY.
Top flowers (reading from left to right) : Wild Pansy and Culti-
vated Pansy of 1830.
Bottom flowers : Show Pansy of 1870 and Fancy Pansy of 1910.
PANSIES, VIOLAS 4P VIOLETS
INTRODUCTION
" The pretty Pansies then I'll tie,
Like stones some chain enchasing,
The next to them their near ally
The purple Violet placing."
ONE of the first flowers children learn to love is the Pansy,
and the love thus early acquired is preserved to the end of
life. To what shall the preference be attributed ? Is it to
the modest habit of the flower, its sweet fragrance, its rich
velvety texture, or its easy culture and adaptability ? When
a town dweller first succeeds in obtaining a small plot of
ground for the cultivating of flowers^ he invariably begins
with Pansies and Violas. He may aspire to higher things,
but he starts with Pansies, than which no flowers are more
suited for cultivation in the suburban gardens of our large
towns. In many situations they become almost perennial,
whilst some of the Violas are so precocious in spring they
will bloom under the snow. The reader has probably seen
the effect of a snowstorm in April on a bed of Crocuses,
when the yellow or purple flowers appeared as colour lines
2 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
on a ground of pure white ; an equally charming effect is
sometimes, though less frequently, seen with Violas.
It may be well to explain at the beginning of this book
the different meanings which have come to be attached to
the names Show Pansy, Fancy Pansy, Viola, Tufted Pansy,
and Violetta.
Prior to 1850 there was only one kind of Pansy known
and grown in Britain — it was entitled to be called simply
" The Pansy/' because there were no others. It was the
progenitor of what are known as Show Pansies (see coloured
illustration). The colours were confined to yellow, white,
blue, and purple, but the remarkably fine velvety texture
which so many associate with Pansies was most apparent
in the rich purple shades. Show Pansies are now suffer-
ing comparative neglect, their place in popular appreciation
having been taken by their more gaudy sisters the Fancy
Pansies. These latter are of continental origin, and were
first known as Belgian Pansies. The colours of this race
are varied as the rainbow, and include, besides the old
colours which appeared in the Show Pansies, shades of pink,
red, rose, orange, salmon, mahogany, and others blended
and mixed in the most beautiful and often fastastic manner.
The old school of florists regarded it as essential that the
eye of the Pansy should be clearly cut, and to this day any
one who has had a florist's training instinctively protests
against the rayed or ragged eyes seen in so many strains of
INTRODUCTION 3
Pansies. However, with new times come new ideas, and
if a Pansy is big enough and gaudy enough in these days
it is approved by a large section of the public.
Viola is the Latin name for the whole genus, and from
species within this genus all modern Pansies and Violas
have developed. Why, then, has Viola been made an
English term and applied to merely a section of the genus ?
It is impossible to say, but the term has come to stay,
and every one recognises that the so-called Violas provide
the finest hardy bedding plants known. By some who
object to the term "Viola" this strain is called "Tufted
Pansies " ; but this term is more misleading than the other,
and its use should be discouraged. The name "Violetta"
is applied to a small growing strain of Violas which has
very sweetly scented flowers ; the plants are very flori-
ferous and dwarf and tufted in growth.
Sweet Violets, which are well known even to dwellers in
the great cities, where they are constantly offered for sale
in bunches in the streets and shops during the winter and
spring months, are descendants of the wild species Viola
odorata, so plentiful in the pastures and hedgerows of
Southern Britain, but rare in Scotland.
CHAPTER I
HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE PANSY
" A little Western flower
Before milk-white ; now purple with love's wound."
THE development of the present magnificent strains of
Pansies from the wildlings of nature has taken nearly one
hundred years. Writers at the end of the eighteenth century
have left on record that the Pansies cultivated in gardens at
that time were little better than varieties of Viola tricolor to
be found growing wild. In addition to the written records,
there also exist some coloured illustrations of that period,
confirming what is said by the writers.
In the year 1813 or 1814 Lord Gambier, who had a
residence at Iver near Uxbridge, Middlesex, collected a few
plants of Viola tricolor and brought them to his gardener,
instructing him at the same time to cultivate them in the
garden. The gardener's name was Thompson, and he stated,
in a communication which appeared in The Flower Gar-
deners9 Library and Floricultural Cabinet for 1841, that the
plants which his master brought to him twenty-seven or
twenty-eight years previously were " roots of the common
EARLY CULTIVATION 5
yellow Heart's-ease which he had gathered in his grounds
at Iver." In Glenny's Garden Almanack for 1885, George
J. Henderson stated that about the year 1812 there
lived at Walton-on-Thames a daughter of the Earl of
Tankerville, and her favourite flower was the common
Pansy, which she cultivated over a large portion of her
garden. By giving them good cultivation and selecting
seeds from the best kinds every year, this lady obtained
varieties possessing remarkably fine flowers. It therefore
appears possible that two growers turned their attention
almost simultaneously to the improvement of the wild
Pansy. Thompson's work was carried on systematically
for thirty years, and he became known among flower-lovers
in the south of England as " the father of the Heart's-ease."
No better method could be adopted to illustrate the develop-
ment of the Pansy than setting forth the diagrams at the
front of this volume.
From 1814 to 1830 the florists directed their efforts to
obtaining flowers of increased size and bearing more dis-
tinct markings than in any of the wild types ; and in regard
to form, Thompson's own expression was they " were lengthy
as a horse's head." Nothing daunted, he resolved to perse-
vere, and was at last rewarded by obtaining "rich colouring,
large size, and fine shape." Up to this time (about 1830)
nothing in the way of blotches had been secured on the
flowers. Blotches are the dark markings of the three lower
PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
petals, shown in the figure. By some growers in those days,
even by Thompson himself, the blotch on the under petal
was called an eye. This is erroneous, as the eye is the
little yellow or golden semicircle on the under petal, on
the top of which rests the
stigma. In the illustration, re-
produced from the Gardeners'
Chronicle of 1841, the flower
shows the beginnings of the
blotches. They had no doubt
been in process of develop-
ment for several years and
were being fixed by selection.
It is interesting to quote
Thompson on this point.
Writing about his work, he says up to this time (somewhere
in the thirties) "a dark eye (blotch), which is now con-
sidered one of the chief requisites in a first-rate flower, had
never been seen. Indeed, such a feature had never entered
my imagination, nor can I take any merit to myself for
originating this peculiar property, for it was entirely
the offspring of chance. In looking one morning over
a collection of heaths, which had been some time ne-
glected, I was struck, to use a vulgar expression, all of
a heap, by seeing what appeared to me a miniature cat's
face steadfastly gazing at me. It was the flower of a Heart's-
RISE OF THE FANCY PANSY 7
ease, self-sown, and hitherto left to waste its beauty far from
mortal's eye. I immediately took it up and gave it a local
habitation and a name. This first child of the tribe I
called Madora, and from her bosom came the seed which,
after various generations, produced Victoria, who in her
turn became the mother of many even more beautiful than
herself." We here see the transition from the rays or pen-
cillings on the petals, to blotches. The rays are supposed
to be guide lines for insects, to guide them to the pollen
and nectar of the flower. As they disappeared, would the
blotches be found by the little marauders less convenient ?
In any case, it is a known fact that the cultivated forms of
the Pansy seed less freely than the wild types.
From 1841 onwards it became the ambition of the florists
to develop in the Pansy the following qualities : a perfect
outline, well-defined blotches and margins, greater substance,
clearer and yet deeper colours. By 1880, the heyday of
the Show Pansy, these qualities were well-nigh obtained.
THE RISE OF THE FANCY PANSY
Professor V. B. Wittrock, of Stockholm, wrote as
follows in the Gardeners' Chronicle for June 13, 1896 :
" In the early thirties the English Pansy was intro-
duced into France, and was cultivated there by skilful
horticulturists, who took great pains in further im-
proving it. In Belgium they also strove to improve
8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
the English Pansies in the thirties, and partly in the
same way as in France, without regard to the laws of
beauty laid down in England." It was probably the
progeny of these English Pansies which returned to
this country about 1850, and became the parents of the
Fancy Pansy as we know it The first we hear of them
in this country was in the year 1848, and at first they
were called Belgian Pansies, presumably for the simple
reason that they had a continental origin. An English
nurseryman, Mr. John Salter, who had been for some
time in Versailles, France, brought some Pansy seed
with him on returning to England. This he sowed in
his new English nursery, where the plants subsequently
attracted the attention of many. In 1849 Fancy Pansies
were referred to in the columns of the Gardeners'
Chronicle for the first time. From 1851 onwards,
Fancy Pansies were offered in Mr. Salter's Catalogue.
In 1852 Mr. John Downie of Edinburgh, who later
became the greatest raiser and grower of these flowers,
is credited with having exhibited six kinds of Fancy
Pansies at the Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, London.
Mr. William Dean (one of a remarkable trio of brothers,
all horticultural authorities) has left it on record that
to Mr. Andrew Henderson, proprietor of the Pine Apple
Nurseries, London, belongs the credit of having intro-
duced the improved forms of Fancy or Belgian Pansies
to English growers about 1858. Mr. William Dean was
PANSY CULTURE IN SCOTLAND 9
entrusted by Mr. Henderson with the growing of these
improved Fancy Pansies in his (Mr. Dean's) gardens
at Shipley, and Mr. Dean grew them well and raised
many new varieties. It was he who first suggested the
name " Fancy," instead of " Belgian," for them.
From 1860 onward Scotland became peculiarly the
home of the cultivated Pansy. The leading Scots florists
devoted themselves enthusiastically to its culture and
improvement. The cooler temperature of the north
accounts in a large measure for the success obtained
by Scotsmen, for there the large flowers develop slowly,
and the full character and beauty, especially of the large
Fancy varieties, are brought out to perfection. To Messrs.
Downie & Laird, Messrs. Dickson & Co., Mr. William Paul,
Messrs. Dobbie & Co., Mr. John Sutherland, Mr. Andrew
Irvine, Mr. Matthew Campbell, Mr. Alex. Lister, Mr. John
Smellie, and others, belongs the credit of placing Scotland
in the forefront of Pansy culture.
The brothers William and Richard Dean, Mr. C.
Turner of Slough, and Mr. Hooper of Bath were re-
nowned Pansy men in the latter half of the last century,
while Mr. William Sydenham and Mr. Septimus Pye, as
growers and raisers of named varieties ; and Messrs. R. H.
Bath, Ltd., as pioneers in the choicest seedling strains, are
well-known English growers of the present day. As raisers
in past years, Mr. J. D. Stuart and Mr. Samuel M'Kee
of Belfast well upheld the reputation of the "sister isle."
CHAPTER II
THE HISTORY OF VIOLAS
WHEN we come to speak of the development of the
modern Viola we are on surer ground than in the case
of the Pansy. One reason for this is that a great deal
of the work has been done within living memory.
At a Viola Conference held at the Botanical Gardens,
Birmingham, in May 1895, under the presidency of
the present writer, the late Mr. Richard Dean read a
paper on "Old Violas," which was reported in the gar-
dening press at the time, and is reproduced here, as it
is one of the most valuable contributions ever penned
on the subject. Mr. Dean said : " The credit of first
employing the Pansy as a bedding plant for forming
lines and masses belongs, I think, to Mr. John Fleming,
formerly of The Gardens, Cliveden, Maidenhead. At
the time he commenced his famous spring gardening,
somewhere about 1854, the distinctive term Viola applied
only to the odorata section and such species as found
a place in the botanical gardens. He had raised seed-
lings, and from them obtained the Cliveden Yellow,
"OLD VIOLAS" ii
Cliveden Dark Purple, and Cliveden White. What he
grew as Cliveden Blue was a distinctively blue flower
which, I was once informed, came originally from Russia,
and which is now in all probability lost to cultivation. He
also employed a fine white flower, named Great Eastern,
raised by Henry Hooper of Bath, a variety which re-
mained in cultivation many years ; and also that flower
which always possessed such a marked individuality of
its own, the old Magpie, the La Pie of the French.
Magpie is perhaps the oldest of the Violas, other than
true species, in cultivation ; but its origin has never been
traced beyond a cornfield in France, where it was said
to have been discovered growing wild. It was offered
for sale by the late Mr. John Salter at what was then
the Versailles Nursery, Hammersmith, in 1857, and since
then it has been known in England under several names,
such as Mazeppa, Paul Pry, and Wonderful.
" I think it was the publicity given to Mr. Fleming's
use of the Pansy through the medium of the gardening
journals which induced Mr. James Grieve to commence
employing Viola lutea and other species as seed parents
as far back as 1859-60 ; and from what I can learn,
Mr. John Baxter, Daldowie, was at that time interesting
himself in a similar direction. One of Mr. Grieve's
bantlings — Grievii — was an excellent yellow bedder in
those days, and may be in cultivation still.
12 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
"It was the boom made with Viola cornuta about
1863, by Mr. John Wills, which raised this species to
such a high degree of popularity. In those days summer
flower gardening was much practised, and Viola cornuta
became largely grown. From Viola lutea came lutea
grandiflora, and later in point of time lutea major
and My Yellow Boy — all capital bedding varieties in
their day.
"About 1870, Mr. B. S. Williams of Holloway intro-
duced V. cornuta Perfection, said to have been raised
at Rotherfield Park, Hampshire. I have grave doubts
on this point, as at the very time Mr. Williams was
announcing he had the entire stock, I was able to buy
it in quantities at Salisbury. It made a distinct advance
as a bedding Viola, and was followed by Enchantress,
Sensation, and Admiration, all of the same type, and
showing but little difference in colour. The four varieties
were of somewhat tall growth, and very subject to mildew
when grown in the south.
" In 1872-73 I introduced Blue Bell. It came as a
chance seedling in my little garden at West Baling,
where I do not think any form of Viola had been
previously grown. I noticed a plant of close tufted
growth spreading itself, and I let it bloom, and at once
stood sponsor to it. It is essentially a bedder, and when
I was at that historical mansion, Syon House, Brentford,
PLATE II
THREE FANCY PANSIES
Mrs. J. Sellars,
R M'Kellar.
Archie Milloy.
SOME VARIETIES OF VIOLA 15
a few days ago, I found Mr. George Wythes was using
it as an edging to many of his flower-beds. He said
nothing in the way of a Viola he had tried would stand
the heat and drought of the summer in the south like
Blue Bell. About this time I got from Mr. Grieve
several of the varieties he had raised, and which were
figured in one of the numbers of the Floral Magazine
for 1872, but only ' The Tory ' did well in our warm
southern climate. [The Tory is still grown, and is this
year (1910) offered by Messrs. Grieve & Sons. It is
deep blue in colour, with dark blotch.]
"One excellent variety which about this time became
very popular in the south was Imperial Blue Perfection.
It was quite distinct from B. S. Williams' cornuta Per-
fection ; a good flower, and very free. I think it was
distributed by Messrs. E. G. Henderson & Son, then of
Wellington Road Nurseries, St. John's Wood.
" As far as my own seedlings were concerned, cornuta
Perfection and lutea grandiflora formed the material I
worked upon ; Cliveden Purple Pansy was also employed.
Blue Bell, Lothair, Princess Teck, and Corisande were the
first four I put into commerce — all true Violas ; and with
these a batch of Tom Thumb Bedding Violas, very dwarf
and compact in growth, producing an abundance of small,
well-formed flowers — the varieties, Blue Gem, Lily White,
Little Gem, Painted Lady, and Yellow Boy. These were
16 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
all true Violas. I had batches of new bedding Pansies
also.
" I always looked upon Dickson's Sovereign, sent out in
1874, as one of the most useful bedding Violas of that day.
Alpha, more a Pansy than a Viola, came out with it, and
a number of Violas also from the same source. In 1875
I put into commerce of my own raising Crown Jewel,
Royal Blue, Lilacina, Mulberry, and White Swan — all true
Violas ; and Mr. B. S. Williams distributed Mrs. Gray —
a good white variety.
" At this time the unobtrusive Viola, by sheer force of its
inherent beauty and great usefulness, had so forced itself
upon public attention that the Council of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society originated a trial on an extensive scale at
their Chiswick Gardens. A large number were sent in,
two inspections were made by the Floral Committee of the
Society, and the following were awarded first-class certifi-
cates of merit (chosen from the point of view of showing
compactness and dwarfness of habit, profuseness and con-
tinuity of bloom, and useful and effective colours ; chosen,
in fact, for those special features which made them effective
as bedding plants) : — From Messrs. Dickson & Co. — Alpha,
Golden Gem, Peach Blossom, Queen of Lilacs, Sovereign,
and Tory. From Mr. R. Dean — Bedfont Yellow, Blue
Bell, Lilacina, Lothair, Lily White, Tom Thumb, The Old
Magpie (so named on account of the strongly contrasted
NEW VARIETIES OF VIOLA 17
colouring of the flowers), Mulberry, Princess Teck, Royal
Blue, and White Swan. From Dr. Stuart — Dr. Stuart and
Williams. From Messrs. James Cocker & Sons — Novelty.
From Mr. G. Westland— Blue Perfection.
"A tribute is due to Dr. Stuart for his efforts to obtain
new varieties, and for what he has done since with so much
success. Since writing this passage, I have been informed
by Dr. Stuart that he began to work at Viola-raising in
1872 or '73. He sent to Chiswick, probably in 1874 or '75,
six varieties raised from crosses between Viola cornuta
and Pansy Blue King, and received six first-class cer-
tificates. 'These,' says Dr. Stuart, 'were the ancestors
of my rayless section/ Nor should my dead brother's
work be forgotten in this relation, as it is nearly twenty
years since, when at Walsall, he produced his first batch
of seedling Violas, including True Blue, a variety of such
sterling qualities, especially as a bedding plant, that it will
keep his memory green among Viola raisers, cultivators,
and exhibitors for some years to come.
"What has been produced since 1878 comes within
the range of contemporary knowledge, and I need not
particularise further."
The work done by Mr. James Grieve, who was for a long
series of years nursery manager to Messrs. Dickson & Co.,
and who is now in business for himself in Edinburgh, is,
viewed as a whole, the greatest of all. Mr. Grieve started in
B
i8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
1862 to cross Viola luteaoi the Pentland Hills and the ordi-
nary Show Pansies of that day. In 1863, he tells us, he
procured Viola Amcena, and crossed it with purple Pansies,
also Viola cornuta, and crossed it with " Dux " Show Pansy,
the best of the seedlings from this cross being named
Vanguard. Viola stricta he next procured, and crossing
it, got such varieties as Ariel, Bullion, stricta alba, and
a number of varieties without blotches or rays. In 1867
Messrs. Dickson got six plants of Viola cornuta Perfection,
and Mr. Grieve "crossed every bloom with everything he
could lay his hands on/' and had 700 seedlings as a result,
among which were Tory, Lilacina, Canary, Holyrood, &c.
Grievii, pallida, and Golden Gem were raised from Viola lutea.
Sovereign, so long and favourably known, was the result of
a cross between Golden Gem and Golden Bedder, a yellow
Show Pansy sent out by E. J. Henderson & Son, London.
When it is mentioned that, in addition to the varieties
named above, Stanley, Mary Gilbert, Dorothy Tennant,
Royalty, Souvenir, Virginalis, and Merchiston Castle were
raised and sent out by Messrs. Dickson & Co., it will be
realised how important was the work of Messrs. Dickson
and Mr. Grieve in the earlier days of the Viola.
Another raiser who worked contemporaneously with Mr.
Grieve was the late Mr. John Baxter, gardener to Colonel
M'Call of Daldowie near Glasgow. Many of his seedlings
were introduced by Messrs. Dobbie & Co., Rothesay, and
VIOLAS OR TUFTED PANSIES 19
now of Edinburgh, who have long been associated with
Viola culture.
The late Dr. Charles Stuart of Chirnside, Berwickshire,
was all his life an ardent florist and a successful raiser of
Polyanthi, Aquilegias (Aquilegia Stuartii), and Violas. In
a volume on Pansies and Violas published in 1898 by
Messrs. Dobbie & Co., Dr. Stuart gave a short account of
his experience as a raiser, which is here reproduced : —
A FEW NOTES ON VIOLAS OR
TUFTED PANSIES
"In 1874 I took pollen from a garden Pansy named
Blue King, a bedding variety then in fashion, and applied
it to the pistil of Viola cornuta, a Pyrenean species. There
was a podful of seed, which produced twelve plants, which
were well taken care of. The next season they flowered
and were all blue in colour, but with a good tufted habit.
I again took pollen from a pink garden Pansy and fertilised
the flowers of my first cross, with a limited success. The
seed from this cross gave me more variety in colour of
flower, and the same tufted habit of growth, which evi-
dently came from the Viola cornuta influence. The best
of this cross were propagated and grown, some of the
plants being sent to the Royal Horticultural Society's
Gardens at Chiswick for trial, after an invitation to all
20 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
Viola growers to send their best there, to see how they
would thrive in a southern climate. After being in the
ground for some time, I received a letter from a member of
the Floral Committee inquiring how they had been raised,
as they were entirely different in growth from all the others
sent in. In reply I told exactly what I have already stated,
and heard no more of the matter till the autumn of 1875*
I was rather surprised when informed that I had got six
first-class certificates and was first in the competition,
Messrs. Dickson & Co. of Edinburgh being second.
Nothing more was done at this time, beyond growing the
plants I had already raised, and sowing the seed from them
in a bed broadcast. They were all more or less rayed.
A floral ally, seeing one of these certificated plants, a fine
white Self, remarked : i If you could only get that flower
without rays in the centre, I think it would be a great im-
provement/ Keeping a sharp look-out on the seed-beds, it
was ten years before I succeeded in finding a really rayless
Viola. In the year of Queen Victoria's Jubilee, while
walking round the seed-bed, I saw what I had been seeking
for, in a pure-white, rayless Self. The plant was there and
then pulled to pieces, and every bit propagated. It was
a warm, summer night, and the perfume from the blooms
at once attracted my attention. The next season I had a
little plantation of the rayless Self and a wealth of blooms.
A box of them was sent to Mr. Robinson, the editor of
VIOLAS OR TUFTED PANSIES 21
the Garden, who at once recognised a new strain, and
promised to figure the variety in the Garden. Such is the
true history of Violetta, one of the most popular of the ray-
less tufted Pansy family. Violetta has proved the mother
of thousands of a rayless race, some better, some worse
than the parent. Violetta pollen crossed with a white Self
with a few rays gave Sylvia, too well known to require
description. Sylvia crossed with a Peacock Pansy gave
me Border Witch — a singular flower, which, in its best
dress, in moist weather is very striking. I found, how-
ever, that this Pansy crossing was too much, for out of a
hundred and fifty seedlings Border Witch was the only one
without rays. Mr. Robinson has more than any one ad-
vanced the strain of rayless Violas. Many of them have
been figured in the Garden and in other magazines, and he
put me under a deep debt of gratitude in dedicating a
volume of his beautiful publication to a humble amateur
in acknowledgment of original work."
In hybridising or crossing wild varieties of Violas, it is
necessary that the pollen should be taken from the culti-
vated species of Pansy and dusted over the pistil ; that is,
the wild species should be the mother. Pollen taken from
V. cornutat for instance, will, if put on the common
Garden Pansy, only give seed which will produce Bedding
Pansies, not the sturdy, tufted-rooted, dwarf strain, which
Violetta now represents.
22 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
The work of progression has in recent years been carried
forward by many growers whose names are known to all
in the horticultural world. Among so many it is almost
invidious to set forth any, but to Mr. William Sydenham,
Mr. D. B. Crane, to Messrs. Bobbie & Co., and Messrs.
James Grieve & Sons, no one will deny honourable
mention.
There is another factor which has largely aided the
popularity of the Viola, and that is the persistent and
consistent advocacy of its claims in the horticultural press.
The wonderful exhibitions, too, of collections of blooms,
made by the leading growers at the principal flower-shows,
have brought the new varieties prominently before all lovers
of flowers. The Royal Horticultural Society has conducted
trials, in the Wisley Gardens, of all known varieties of Viola
from time to time, and has sent out Reports recommend-
ing the best. These Reports are published in the Society's
Journal, and may be purchased by all interested in the
subject.
CHAPTER III
PANSIES AND VIOLAS FROM SEED
" There are divine things well envelop'd,
I swear to you there are divine things more beautiful than words can tell. "
THE raising of seedlings of any plant is always interesting,
because it is from seed that most new varieties are obtained ;
therefore the amateur has a chance, provided he is growing
a good strain, of obtaining some new colour or form. The
question of what sort of seed it is best to sow is one of the
first to present itself, but it cannot be decided satisfactorily
until the grower has a clear idea as to what object the
plants are intended to serve. If the plants are wanted to
form a mixed bed of Pansies or to dot along a mixed border,
the best Fancy Pansy seed obtainable should be sown.
If they are needed for beds of one colour or for lines of
one colour, Violas should certainly be chosen, and all the
leading seed merchants make a speciality of supplying seed
in different colours. In the purchasing of Pansy or Viola
seed, always avoid what is cheap, otherwise all the labour
and care is likely to end in disappointment. The best
Pansies and Violas do not seed freely, and therefore the
best seed can never be plentiful.
23
24 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
Time to Sow. — Pansies and Violas are so amenable to
cultivation that, given careful treatment, they can be sown
at any time with a fair prospect of success, but, to obtain the
best results, they should be sown in April or May, in boxes
placed either in a cool greenhouse or frame. The boxes
should be covered with a sheet of glass, and the seed ought
to be sown thinly, so that the plants may be allowed to
remain in the boxes till they are sturdy little fellows with
fine healthy leaves about an inch in diameter. In June, or
early in July, the seedlings must be transplanted to a pre-
pared frame or bed in the open. This may be ordinary
garden soil to which has been added some old, well de-
composed manure or leaf-mould ; and, if the soil is of a
tenacious character some sand may be added, but not other-
wise. Plant the seedlings in it three or four inches apart,
and give careful attention to watering ; if the position is
fully exposed to the sun some shading will be required.
Shortly after the plants become established blooms will
begin to appear, but these should be removed, as the special
object in view is to obtain strong healthy plants to put
out into their flowering quarters in September. Seedlings
raised in this way will invariably stand the winter well in
the open, except in the most exposed positions. Where it
is desired to have a display in such a position, the plants
should be left where they can have a little protection by
means of a sash or otherwise during the winter, and be
PLATE III
THREE FANCY PANSIES
Miss Neil.
Margaret Fife.
Mrs. J. Stewart.
PANSIES AND VIOLAS 27
moved into their flowering positions in March. One great
advantage of the treatment here recommended is that plants
are obtained with a great mass of fibrous roots, and when
moved it is rare that even a single plant fails. If plant-
ing is done in September, growth will continue all through
the winter months whenever the weather is mild, and by
the time the plants begin to bloom in April and May they
will be fine clumps, several inches in diameter, capable of
producing large, beautiful flowers. They will continue for
several months to flower, and in July or August the "old
wood/' or, more properly, the strong shoots, which have
flowered should be cut away, and the young fresh shoots
in the centre of the plant left to continue the flowering.
Treated thus, most of the plants will bloom again in
autumn, and even stand over another winter. Any specially
meritorious variety can be propagated by cuttings, as re-
commended in another chapter, just the same as named
varieties.
CHAPTER IV
CULTIVATION FROM CUTTINGS
* ' Nature does require
Her time of preservation."
AN enthusiastic Pansy grower used to say that the same
laws held good in the plant world as in the animal world,
and there is far more in the old gentleman's remark than
appears on the surface. I f healthy, robust children, or healthy,
robust chickens are desired, it is well to be careful about
the parentage. Exactly so with Pansies and Violas. It
gives the grower an enormous advantage if he can start
with healthy, young plants. If he is quite a beginner he
may either have to purchase his plants from a nurseryman,
or obtain cuttings from a friend and strike (the gardening
term for " root ") them himself. Let us, in the first place,
assume that the latter method is adopted.
During the early summer months he probably visited his
friend's garden, jotted down the varieties he liked best, and
doubtless bespoke some cuttings at the proper time. What
is the proper time ? Any time from July onwards. If the
plants are wanted for autumn planting and early blooming,
28
CULTIVATION FROM CUTTINGS 29
the earlier the cuttings are put in the better. In the south
of England, where the atmosphere is dry and the sun often
scorching in July, more care must be exercised to obtain
successful "strikes" than in the cooler atmosphere of the
north. It is well, in the south, to select a position facing
west, north-west, or north-east for the frame. Do not let
any one be frightened by the mention of a frame ; it is merely
advocated for ensuring safety and security. The simplest
way to make one is to procure some boards, 9 or 10 inches
broad, and nail them strongly together at the corners so as to
make a box, without top or bottom, of course, exactly the
width of the sash, and 2 inches shorter. The sash may be
any size that is most convenient. The orthodox frame is
6 feet by 4 feet, but a smaller size is handier for the amateur.
The frame should have guides nailed on the sides, so that
the sash can be moved up and down with safety. The
frame must be placed on the soil so that it slopes gently
from back to front. This can easily be done by sinking
the front of the frame 3 inches into the soil. Much de-
pends on the nature of the soil what preparation is required
to be made for the cuttings. If it is free and well drained
it will only require a little sharp sand well incorporated
with it to make an ideal bed. If, however, it is strong
clay, it must be removed to the depth of 9 inches and the
bottom dug with a fork to give drainage, and the space
thereafter filled up with some free soil or compost — old
3o PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
potting soil or anything of that nature passed through an
inch sieve will do well. This soil should be made up to
within 6 inches of the glass, and it should be given the
same slope as the glass. We will suppose everything is
in readiness for a start as follows : If the frame is a big one,
a piece of broad board to stand or kneel on ; a straight-
edge to make the lines ; a dibber ; and some freshly painted
6-inch labels. The beginner has perhaps to step over to
his friend's garden for the cuttings. He takes the labels
with him and gets twelve, twenty, or more cuttings of a
variety of a Viola for bedding, or perhaps only one or two,
if it happens to be a new and choice variety. In the case
of Show and Fancy Pansies, which are treated exactly as we
are describing, some half-dozen cuttings of each variety is
usually considered ample. The cuttings themselves ought
to be taken from the most vigorous plants, and they ought
to be root cuttings, which are short growths pulled from
the centre of the plant. Only if they are too long should
they be cut obliquely across, close under a joint, with a
sharp knife. If the shorter ones come away with a portion
of the white underground growth, they require no cutting
except to remove anything ragged at the base. Many of
the growths so pulled out will have little rootlets attached,
and in olden days these used to be called " Highlandman's
cuttings."
STRIKING CUTTINGS 31
In taking cuttings, always write the label or tally first, and
as soon as the cuttings are taken off, tie them and the label
securely, but not too firmly, together. Take them to the
frame in which they are to be inserted as soon as possible,
and put them in the shade. If the operator is a real gardener
he will take off his coat and put the little bundles of cuttings
carefully under it. Open one bundle and insert the label
at the bottom left-hand corner of the frame, and put in the
cuttings in a row behind it, working up the frame at about
3 inches from the edge and about 3 inches between each
cutting, which should be inserted with the dibber about an
inch and a half deep, and made very firm at the base — so
firm that it can hardly be pulled out. This is one of the
great secrets of success in striking all sorts of cuttings.
When a variety is finished, leave a space of 6 inches, then
insert another label, and go on as before, dibbling in the
cuttings behind the label. When the first row is finished,
mark another row with the straight-edge by pressing it into
the soil 3 or 4 inches away from the first row. Come
right to the bottom of the frame again and work up as
before. After all have been inserted, give a thorough
drenching with water from a watering-pot with a fine rose.
Shut up the frame quite close, and if it is in a position to
get direct sunshine the simplest way to obviate danger of
the cuttings getting shrivelled is to give the inside of the
glass a coat of thin whitewash.
32 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
For about ten days, unless the weather is very hot and
sunny, the sash may be kept almost continuously closed,
giving slight dewy waterings if the surface soil gets dry.
After the first eight or ten days it will be advisable to begin
to give air by raising the sash i or 2 inches at the back for
the first week, and increasing it to 3 or 4 inches the second
week. As soon as the cuttings show evidence of having
made roots, the whitewash must be washed off the glass,
and more air given until the sashes are removed altogether,
not to be replaced again if the plants are for autumn-plant-
ing ; but if for spring-planting they will require the pro-
tection of the sashes in severe weather in winter, especially
if the cuttings are from fine varieties of Pansies.
Propagating Out-of-doors. — One of the most noted
and successful cultivators, Mr. ]. F. McLeod, gardener to
J. Pierpont Morgan, Esq., of Dover House, Roehampton,
propagates all his Violas out-of-doors ; and such was largely
the practice of the late talented superintendent of Regent's
and Hyde Parks, Mr. Charles Jordan. For this purpose a
border facing west or north-west is chosen, and it is prepared
much the same way as recommended in the foregoing pages
for the frame. Cuttings are inserted in a similar way, and
a very large proportion are found to strike. This plan has
much to recommend it when large quantities, hundreds, even
thousands, of one variety are required, and with the hardy
PROPAGATION BY DIVISION 33
popular Bedding Violas 90 to 95 per cent, will root and make
good plants ; but choice varieties of Violas, and especially
Pansies, cannot be rooted in this way with any degree of
certainty. We advised the frame for safety at the beginning,
and we repeat the advice, because the small cultivator, who
has only a few dozen, or at the most a few hundred, plants
cannot take the risks from cats and other vermin that fre-
quent suburban gardens. We only bracket cats and other
vermin together from a gardener's point of view.
Propagation by Division of the Plants. — This method
is very often adopted for the purpose of obtaining large
plants for autumn planting. It was largely practised by
the late Mr. Jordan in Regent's Park. He related that
he had some 25,000 plants to propagate each year, and he
obtained them with the greatest facility. It was the practice
in Mr. Jordan's time to fill the huge beds in Regent's Park
with bulbs and Violas ; as the bulbs passed out of bloom the
Violas came into flower, and an effective display was obtained
during April, May, and June. At the end of June, or early
in July, the beds were cleared both of bulbs and Violas and
filled with summer-blooming plants just coming into flower.
When the Viola plants were lifted the old growths were
trimmed away, and the clumps pulled into three or four
pieces, which were planted in nursery beds in the open. It
will be easily understood how, provided these nursery beds
c *
34 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
were shaded and attended to with water, fine strong clumps
of Violas would be obtained for planting again with the
bulbs in October. In a future chapter will be found a list
of the varieties which, being more tufted and perennial in
habit, lend themselves best to division.
CHAPTER V
CULTIVATION OF CHOICE FLOWERS FOR
EXHIBITION AND OTHER PURPOSES
"Are not Pansies emblems meet for thoughts?
The pure, the chequer'd-gay and deep by turns :
A line for every mood, the bright things wear
In their soft velvet coat."
THE cultivation of the choicest flowers is an entirely
different matter from ordinary border-culture. To obtain
such flowers as are frequently seen at the flower-shows,
measuring 3 inches to 3^ inches in diameter, of splendid
colours and beautiful form, requires very skilful culture.
In the chapter on the rooting or striking of cuttings, every-
thing that is necessary to know about raising the plants
is related in full. In this chapter will be described the
preparation of the beds to receive the young plants, and the
treatment to be given them afterwards. In the large nurseries
where Pansies and Violas are grown for exhibition pur-
poses, it is usual to have long beds about 6 feet wide, so that
the plants can easily be protected by being " sashed " — that
is, by sashes or lights being placed over the beds, to pro-
tect them from storms — a week or so before the flowers are
35
36 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
required. The sashes are usually shaded with whitewash
to prevent the blooms being scorched by the sun. The
small grower will find it advisable to grow his plants in
much narrower beds, it being more convenient to protect
individual flowers rather than entire beds of them. To
begin at the beginning, the site of the Pansy or Viola
bed should be decided upon in the autumn, and it should
then be deeply cultivated and manured liberally with good
cow, or horse manure. The edges should be nicely trimmed,
but the surface ought to be left rough to the winter weather.
The situation of the bed should not be one that is exposed
directly to the full rays of the noonday sun, especially in
gardens in the southern counties.
In dry weather in January or February the beds should
be given a good dusting of soot and bone meal. Don't lay
it on half an inch thick, but sprinkle it so that the ground is
just thinly powdered. If there is some leaf-mould about,
or thoroughly decomposed manure, it might be passed
through an inch sieve and also scattered over the top of
the bed. The beds should, after these things are applied,
be turned over to the depth of 9 or 10 inches with a dig-
ging fork, so that the ingredients will be thoroughly incor-
porated with the soil. The bed or beds should again be
trimmed up, as this is the last attention they will require
before planting is done in the latter half of March or very
early in April. If the grower has the plants beside him in
FLOWERS FOR EXHIBITION 37
a frame, he can choose his own time better than if he
is obtaining them from a nursery. The bed should be
marked off in lines 12 to 15 inches apart, the plants being
placed in these lines about 9 inches apart from each other.
If the beds are narrow, it is well to arrange to have one or
two lines of each variety, which brings all the labels along
the front of the bed ; a broad board should be placed
across the bed, on which the planter should stand when
planting. With an ordinary garden trowel a hole must be
scooped out about 4 inches in depth, the plant laid care-
fully in, and made firm by the aid of the fingers. All blooms
and buds which may be on the plant at planting time
should be removed, and if there is the slightest trace of
green or brown fly on the plants, each plant should be
dipped in a solution of soft soap and water — 2 oz. of soap
to one gallon of water — before being planted. The plant
ought, of course, to be turned upside down and the foliage
only immersed, not the roots. Watering after planting will
depend entirely on the weather conditions which prevail.
If showers are plentiful no artificial watering may be re-
quired, but otherwise the plants must be watered fre-
quently. No definite instructions can be given regarding
this, but the grower's own judgment must be his guide.
The chief object to be kept in view is to get the plants
to start away quickly into strong and vigorous growth.
Vigorous plants are seldom attacked by insects. People used
38 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
to say that aphides came with the east wind in spring, but
it is now well known they make their appearance when the
plant has its growth checked by adverse influences. The
best and safest cure is the solution of soft soap referred
to above, to which has been added some quassia made by
boiling quassia chips in water. This preparation can either
be applied with a syringe, or, if only a few plants are to be
dealt with, the liquid can be dropped from a sponge into
the centre of the plants, where the fly mostly lodges. If
the leaves are seen to curl, the plants ought to be examined
at once, as more than likely the flies are doing the mischief
and must be got rid of without delay.
Slugs or small snails frequently cause serious loss
among newly planted Pansies and Violas by eating them
partly through just at the surface of the soil. If there
is any reason for thinking the ground is infested with
slugs, it should be dusted with powdered, newly slaked
lime once or twice before planting, on an evening after
dark, when the weather is mild. After the beds are
planted the only safe cure is hunting for the depre-
dators with a lantern after dark, removing them and
killing them. As has been already recommended, flowers
and buds should be removed when planting, and no
flowers should be left to develop until the plants are
getting well established. Not more than four growths
ought to be allowed to develop on each plant. These
PROTECTING PANSY BLOOMS 39
growths, as they get long, must either be pegged down
or tied to short stakes inserted in the ground for the
purpose. Discontinue removing the flower buds three
or four weeks before the flowers are wanted for the
show, and the result will be a crop of large, richly
coloured blossoms. Pansy blooms are often disfigured
by dirt which is splashed upon them by heavy rains. It
must be remembered that they are lowly flowers growing
very near to the ground, which is one of the reasons
why they require to be covered by any contrivance
which will prevent them getting bespattered. Many
quaint and curious plans are adopted for this purpose,
but a penny earthenware bowl supported in a cleft in
an inch-square stick is as effectual as any. The writer
has seen many hundreds of beautiful blooms taken from
beneath such covers, to be shown with pride and satis-
faction by their cultivators.
It is necessary to caution growers that slugs and
snails are just as fond of the blooms as they are of
the green plants, for nothing is more disappointing
than the disfigurement of an otherwise perfect bloom
by a half-circle eaten out of its side by a slug. Plants
must never be dosed with soft soap or any other soluble
insecticide just previous to a show, as such would ruin
all the buds by bleaching them. If fly appears, the
centre of the plants can be lightly dusted with the best
40 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
tobacco powder, or the soap solution can be dropped into
them with the greatest care from a small sponge.
To procure fine flowers of Violas and Pansies in
quantity for other than competitive purposes, the grower
could not do better than follow the instructions given
in this chapter, but he need not thin and disbud quite
so severely. He will no doubt be satisfied with flowers
2j inches in diameter if these are produced in abund-
ance, whereas the competitor, on the contrary, wants
only a few dozen blooms, but each specimen must be
3 to 3^ inches in diameter, and of great substance, if
they are to win prizes. All through the spring and
early summer, the surface of the beds must be kept
clean and friable by being frequently hoed or moved
with a small hand-fork. In June, a top-dressing should
be applied, in order to get the plants to flower well
throughout the summer. Before applying the top-dress-
ing the surface soil should be loosened and all weeds
removed ; then a sprinkling of a good artificial manure
should be dusted between the rows, and on the top
of that the top-dressing should be spread one inch
deep, or rather more. This top-dressing is usually a
compost consisting of thoroughly decayed manure mixed
with a small proportion of soil and passed through a
sieve with one-inch mesh. This treatment serves to keep
the roots cool, and it encourages the plants to continue
LIQUID MANURE 41
growing through the summer. The dressing is also most
useful to the support of the young growths, which will
come up in the centre of the plants later, and make the
best cuttings to propagate the stock for another year.
Liquid Manure. — This is used by many good
growers, and when applied judiciously it has a wonderful
effect in heightening the brilliancy of the colours. Many
different plans are adopted to make it. Dissolving
artificial manures in the proportions recommended by
the various makers is one way, but the old-fashioned
method is hard to beat if it can be carried out. Gather
a peck of sheep's dung and place it in a canvas bag ;
then put the bag in a 3<>gallon cask of water ; another
small bag filled with soot should also be placed in the
cask. The goodness from the dung and soot will soon
get into the water. When this liquid has been used, fill
up the cask again with water (the dung and soot will last
for weeks before requiring renewing), and stir the liquid
with a pole. A good watering once a week with this
manure-water will be most beneficial to the plants.
We have assumed that the grower is dealing with
plants which he has propagated himself, and therefore
has beside him in a frame, so that planting out can
be done at the most opportune moment, and the plants
can be lifted with fine balls of soil attached to the
roots. With young plants received from a nursery rather
42 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
more care must be exercised. These plants should be
planted in the evening, and on the following day an in-
verted flower-pot should be placed over each, removing it
at night unless frost is likely to occur, when it should be
allowed to remain. This treatment for two or three days
is usually sufficient to get the plants established in their
new home. With such plants it is, however, even more
necessary than with others to keep the flower-buds pinched,
so that all the plant's strength may go towards increasing
the root-action.
This chapter has been written solely with one object in
view, that of giving instructions how to grow the choicest
varieties of Violas and Pansies in such a way as to obtain
with certainty the finest flowers ; for this reason spring-
planting only has been recommended. In days long past
Pansies for exhibition were nearly all grown in pots in
frames, after the manner of Auriculas. They were potted
up in the autumn, and attended to through the winter in
the frames with great solicitation and care. In May, the
plant produced perfect blooms of the old English Show
Pansy, and similar treatment would be followed by excellent
results at the present day ; but the practice has fallen out
of favour, and the cultivation in beds, as here recommended,
has superseded it.
STAGING THE FLOWERS 43
STAGING THE FLOWERS
There is no better method of acquiring the knowledge
of how best to set up Pansies and Violas for show, than
by visiting an exhibition and observing how the work is
done by prize-winning growers. Pansies are generally
exhibited on flat trays made for the purpose. Sometimes
six, sometimes twelve, and occasionally twenty-four blooms
are asked for in a competition. The flowers are inserted in
the trays so that they assume an almost horizontal position,
and their points or qualities can easily be seen by the
judges. In some districts the bloom is first fitted into a
paper collar, and held in position by a small pin being
passed through the stem behind the collar. This makes
the staging easier, but the practice is condemned by many
lovers of these flowers. Violas are usually set up in flat
sprays of six or nine blooms, but at some shows, notably
at the Wolverhampton Floral Fete, they are splendidly
arranged in wide-mouthed dwarf jars. In staging there is
much room for an exhibitor to show his taste and skill, and
it often happens that a clever stager gains points over a less
capable one who has better flowers. Flowers intended for
exhibition should be large, well formed, well marked, of
good substance, fresh and clean. The names should be
legibly written (or printed) on small neat labels.
44 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
PANSIES AND VIOLAS IN A GREENHOUSE
IN SPRING
On a previous page reference was made to the old
custom of growing Pansies in pots in frames. To those
who wish to get a great amount of beauty and pleasure
with comparatively little trouble, the growing of Pansies
or Violas — especially the latter — for spring blooming in a
cool greenhouse or conservatory is strongly recommended.
In the month of October, healthy, young plants which
have been propagated from summer cuttings, should be
potted in a compost of good loam and leaf-mould, with
a little coarse sand to keep the mixture sweet. Single
plants may be put into four-inch pots, but a better effect
is obtained by putting three plants into a five-inch pot.
They should be grown in a cold frame through the winter,
admitting air almost continuously, as success depends largely
on keeping the plants dwarf and stubby. During severe frost
mats should be placed over the frame to prevent, if possible,
the soil and roots getting frozen. Very little water will be
required, especially if the pots are plunged in ashes or
fibre. Towards the end of January, remove the pots to
a cool greenhouse or conservatory, where they will soon
commence to bloom, and yield charming flowers through
March and April. Any of the named Pansies and Violas
PLATE IV
FOUR FANCY VIOLAS
Louie Granger.
Kate Houston.
Mrs. Chichester.
Duke of Argyle.
ifT
VIOLAS FOR BEDDING 47
are suitable for treatment in this way, but Violas with clear
self colours are always most appreciated, and they give the
best results.
VIOLAS FOR BEDDING AND MASSING
These are sometimes wanted in very large quantities, and
there are the three methods of obtaining them — from seed,
from cuttings, and from division of the old plants. How
to obtain a stock by either method is explained in pre-
ceding pages. The possibilities in massing and bedding
are so great that these remarks are offered only as sugges-
tions. It is desirable to avoid planting in straight lines.
When Violas are employed for an edging to wide borders,
an irregular line in the inside should be followed, so that
the occupants of the border may extend forward amongst
the Violas at different points. If one will have a ribbon
border of Violas, let nothing else be associated with them,
and let the varieties be most carefully selected for the
purpose. The following arrangement would be very effec-
tive, as the varieties would all bloom at the same time and
the height would gradually rise towards the back row : —
Front row, Seagull or Violetta, white ; second row, Jubilee,
purple ; third row, Mrs. E. A. Cade, deep primrose ; fourth
row, Blue Rock, blue ; fifth row, Kingcup, yellow ; sixth
row, Bridal Morn, deep lavender ; seventh row, Snowflake,
white. Few people, however, are likely to want anything
48 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
quite so formal as this, therefore it may be said that the
same varieties planted in patches through a large border
are much more pleasing.
It is a wise and popular practice to use Violas as a
groundwork for other plants. If they are planted in autumn
along with bulbs, many charming combinations can be
made. It is only necessary to suggest crimson or cardinal
late flowering Tulips on a groundwork of white, cream,
or pale-yellow Violas ; Emperor Narcissus planted thickly
among violet or purple coloured Violas ; pale-blue Spanish
Iris and cream Violas; yellow Spanish Iris and white Violas;
Spanish Iris " Thunderbolt " and lavender coloured Violas.
Other combinations rise up before the mind — blood-red Wall-
flower with cream Violas, and Canterbury Bells with Violas.
In June, it is often possible to remove the bulbs and leave
the Violas. Then cut away the old growths from the Violas
and replant the beds with summer-flowering plants from
pots, such as Pelargoniums, Celosias, and Fuchsias. When
treated in this way the Viola plants continue blooming
throughout the summer. A little reflection will show that
numberless combinations can be obtained, but the plans
must be made well in advance if success is to be assured.
Violas are used very largely as a groundwork for Rose
beds, and here again they are most effective when used in
beds which contain distinct varieties of Roses, associating
with the Roses such Violas as will harmonise with them.
VIOLAS FOR BEDDING 49
It is not necessary to say much about the special prepara-
tion of beds, because beds which are prepared for bulb
culture in September will invariably grow Violas well. In
Rose beds there are more difficulties to contend with, and
Violas with a dwarf or creeping character should be selected
for planting as early as possible after the Rose beds have
been dressed for the winter. In combinations of this kind
it is best to employ only well-tried varieties, it being unwise
to risk failure. New varieties often prove disappointing,
and in every case they should be experimented with in
a small way before they are employed on a large scale.
One can never go wrong with Snowflake, White Beauty,
Duchess of York, Pencaitland, and Sylvia among whites ;
Ardwell Gem and Sulphurea among primrose shades ;
Kingcup, Klondyke, Grievii, Redbraes Yellow, and Walter
Welsh among yellows ; Florizel and Kitty Bell among
lavenders ; Lilacina (Bedding Pansy), Maggie Mott, Blue
Duchess, and Favourite among blues ; and True Blue,
Councillor Waters, and Archibald Grant among dark
blues.
CHAPTER VI
PANSIES AND VIOLAS FOR TABLE DECORATION
"Jove's own floweret where three colours meet."
IF Pansies and Violas are to be grown specially for this
purpose, varieties should be selected which produce flowers
with long stems and are clear and distinct in colour. The
blooms should always be gathered in the early morning
and placed for an hour or two in jars of water in a cool,
shady position. This will cause them to become stiff and
firm and much more easily handled. Pansies and Violas
associate well with almost any light, green foliage, but
nothing is so suitable as their own foliage when that can be
procured bright and fresh and of good colour. A number
of strong-growing seedlings are often cultivated for their
foliage alone, and this practice is to be recommended, as
there is then no necessity to cut from choice varieties.
There are no receptacles so suitable for table adornment
as clear glass or crystal vases, and these should be rather
short and wide. A most appropriate centre-piece may be
formed with several small, rather wide, trumpet-shaped
vases. The foliage sprays should be inserted first, and
so
RAISING NEW VARIETIES 51
the flowers then placed in carefully, so as to face whatever
direction is required. If some flowers have a tendency to
twist about, this can be remedied by pushing a piece of
thin wire up the inside of the stem and allowing it to pro-
ject half an inch. This projection can usually be inserted
into a piece of foliage or stem, and the flower thus retained
in the desired position. Colour schemes must, of course,
be worked out with what is available. In Violas, for
example, charming combinations can be worked in cream
and lavender ; in white and dark violet ; in yellow and
cream ; and in mauve and white. Large, fine blooms of
Fancy Pansies are always admired on a table, and when
well arranged no combination can be more attractive.
RAISING NEW VARIETIES
Pansy and Viola flowers are so frequently visited by
insects that they never produce seed true to variety if grown
in mixed beds or in proximity to other varieties. It is never-
theless the case that seeds can be purchased which come
fairly true to colour. These are produced by planting large
batches of one variety in isolated positions. Intending
purchasers are often disappointed when they are told by
the nurseryman or seedsman that they cannot have seeds
of special varieties, say of fine Fancy Pansies. The nursery-
man could gather seeds from such varieties, but they would
52 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
not come true. There is no other method of propagation
than by cuttings to perpetuate distinct varieties true to
character. The raising of new varieties is a very interesting
pursuit, and it can be carried out by any amateur. If a
mixed bed of Pansies is being grown, seeds should only
be saved from the very choicest varieties. If, in the case
of Violas, a new white variety, for example, is desired, a few
plants of two or three of the best white varieties obtain-
able should be planted in an isolated corner of the garden,
and seeds saved from them. Both Pansies and Violas are
visited by bees, moths, beetles, and flies, either in search
of nectar, which is to be found in the spur behind the
lower petal, or to feed on the pollen which drops out of
the anthers into the hairy groove formed where the spur
joins the petal. Making these visitations, the insects carry
pollen from one flower to the other, and the lip-like arrange-
ment on the point of the stigma lends itself admirably to
cross-fertilisation. The lip is viscid on the upper side, and
pollen brought by an insect from a previously visited flower
easily adheres to it. It is possible, of course, to fertilise
by hand, but to obtain satisfactoiy results plants must be
grown in pots and protected from insect visitors at the
crucial time by screens of fine netting. The blooms re-
quire to be emasculated at a very early stage — an operation
of extreme delicacy. If insects are excluded and hand
fertilisation is not practised, few, if any, seeds will be ob-
RAISING NEW VARIETIES 53
tained. This points to another method of cross-fertilisation
which has been successfully adopted. The blooms are
secured in an upright position to short sticks at an early
stage of their development. Held in this position, and
insects being excluded, they cannot become either cross
or self pollinated except by hand. If the desired pollen
is carefully applied to the viscid lip of the stigma at the
right time, a true cross is obtained without emasculation.
Raisers are working for new colours and improved habits,
and there is plenty of room for improvement in these
directions.
CHAPTER VII
FANCY OR DECORATIVE PANSIES
"There's Pansies, that's for thoughts."
THE following selection includes fifty of the best, named
varieties. All are good growers and capable of producing
large and beautiful flowers on long stems : —
Alexander B. Douglas has glossy black blotches margined
with crimson and white.
A. H. Martin is a purple blotched flower belted with yellow;
the top petals are reddish purple shaded with yellow.
Archd. Milloy (Lister). This has dark, violet blotches mar-
gined with chrome yellow and rose ; the top petals
are yellow and rose with violet base.
Coronation (Smellie) has plum-coloured blotches, edged
with a creamy white ; upper petals cream, heavily
edged with violet.
Duke of Argyle (Ollar), a flower marked with large, dark
blotches, edged with lemon-yellow and rose ; the upper
petals are dark purple suffused with rose.
David Wilson (Dobbie), a violet blotched variety belted with
54
DECORATIVE PANSIES 55
crimson and white ; the upper petals are the same as
margins.
Emmie Bateman (Dobbie), a large creamy white self, with
dense, violet blotches and slight edging of yellow on
lower petals.
Everard Jones (Dobbie). This flower is a shade of canary
yellow, being rather lighter on upper petals, with large,
very dark blotches ; the top petals are occasionally
marbled with rosy purple.
Holroyd Paul (Dobbie), a finely blotched flower edged
with yellow and pink ; the upper petals are bronze
and pink.
Hugh Mitchell (Dobbie). This has large, violet blotches, with
edgings of sulphur flushed and margined with blue.
James M'Nab (Dobbie), a densely blotched variety, edged
with yellow ; the upper petals are deep yellow.
Jenny Morris (Kay). This has large, circular, blue blotches,
with margins and top petals light crimson.
John Harle (Lister), a dark, bronzy-purple, blotched variety,
with clean-cut margins of creamy white ; the top
petals are creamy white, shaded with dark purple.
John Picken (Smellie). This flower has large smooth
blotches, edged with bronzy-yellow and pink ; the
upper petals are bronze and pink.
King Edward (Dunsmore), a flower with deep maroon
blotches, edging of mulberry, and belting of yellow;
56 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
the top petals are white, with heavy belting of purple
maroon, and white, wire-like edging.
Lawton Wingate (Kay), dark crimson blotches, margined
with yellow and crimson ; upper petals yellow, mar-
gined crimson.
Mrs. R. P. Butler (Dobbie) has dark violet, well-formed
blotches ; the edges are creamy- white, mottled with
purple crimson, and the upper petals are cream and
purple-crimson.
Mrs. Campbell (Dobbie), a grand, yellow self of the same
shade throughout, with immense, circular-shaped, claret-
coloured blotches.
Mrs. Ferguson (Kay) has circular, dark-crimson blotches,
margined with straw colour ; the top petals are reddish-
violet.
Mrs. R. Fife (Dobbie) has crimson-purple blotches, edged
with crimson and white ; the upper petals are French
white, with a band of crimson lake.
Mrs. S. Mitchell (Kay), a bright-yellow flower, with brownish-
black blotches.
Mrs. M' Alpine (Dobbie), a large, white flower, with very
dark blotches of first-rate form.
Mrs. Macfadyen (Dobbie) has chocolate-coloured blotches,
belted with bright yellow and rose ; upper petals
yellow and rose.
DECORATIVE PANSIES 57
Mrs. J. Scllars (Lister). This flower has large, violet blotches,
with broad margins of primrose yellow ; the top petals
are pale yellow with base of dark violet,
Mrs. James Smith (Dobbie) has very dark blotches, and
white belting mottled with crimson ; the upper petals
are white with crimson edging.
Mrs. James Stewart (Kay) has large, blue blotches, margined
with white ; the top petals are purple and white.
Miss Albinia Brown Douglas (Kay), a flower with dense
blotches, edged with crimson and white, the top
petals being magenta.
Miss Nell (Smellie) has immense, velvety blotches, edged
white and bright crimson ; upper petals are white,
pencilled with purple and crimson.
Mr. B. Wellbonrne (Kay), a flower with large brown-black
blotches, laced with primrose ; the upper petals are
bluish drab.
Madge Montgomery (Dobbie) has claret-coloured blotches,
with creamy-white edges ; the top petals are claret,
with slight cream edging.
Margaret Fife (Dobbie), a flower with blue-black blotches
edged with creamy-white, the upper petals being
bluish-purple.
Mary D. Fitzpatrick, violet blotches edged with pure white ;
top petals white, veined violet.
58 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
Mary Kay (Kay) has large, circular, violet blotches, mar-
gined with white ; the upper petals are violet and
white.
Meg Walker (Dobbie). This flower has bluish-mauve
blotches, edged with pure white ; the upper petals are
crimson-purple.
Neil M'Kay (Smellie) has large, circular blotches, edged
with golden yellow; the top petals are golden yellow
flaked with crimson.
Nellie Campbell (Paul), a variety with large circular blotches
laced with primrose ; the upper petals are blotched
with black and laced with primrose.
R. C. Dickson (Kay) has dark crimson blotches, with
margins and top petals cream, spotted with rose.
Robert Logan (Dobbie) has dark, mulberry - coloured
blotches, laced with golden yellow and bronze ; the
upper petals are shades of mulberry, yellow, and
bronze.
Robert M'Caughie (Lister) has violet blotches, margined
with sulphur-yellow and edged with dark rose ; the
upper petals are sulphur-coloured, but heavily edged
with dark rose.
Robert M'Kellar (Dobbie). This flower has large, black
blotches, heavily margined with yellow ; the upper
petals are yellow, with a heavy band of purple-violet.
PLATE V
FOUR WHITE RAYLESS VIOLAS
Mad. A. Gray.
Purity.
Snowflake,
Mrs. H. Pearce.
DECORATIVE PANSIES 61
Robert White (Kay) has glossy black blotches, laced with
bright yellow ; the upper petals are yellow.
Rev. D. R. Williamson (Dobbie), a flower with large,
velvety blotches, belted with clear yellow.
Tom M'Callum (Lister) has dense, plum-coloured blotches,
the margins being of light chrome-yellow with rose,
light-purple, and carmine shadings ; the top petals
are an enchanting shade of violet, with whitish wire
edge.
Thomas Stevenson (Paul), a flower with large, black blotches
edged with primrose ; the upper petals are primrose,
blotched with black and pencilled with crimson.
T. F. Stewart (M'Lachlan) has deep-blue blotches, with
primrose edgings ; the upper petals are white, with a
blue band and sulphur edging.
W. B. Child (Sydenham), a purple-blotched flower, with
yellow margin, the upper petals being purple.
William M'Kenzie (Dobbie), a sulphur-yellow coloured
flower, having large, dark-violet blotches ; the upper
petals are sulphur-blotched and pencilled with violet
and rose.
W. H. Watson (Kay), a flower with large, circular blotches,
margined with straw colour ; top petals straw-coloured
and violet.
W. P. Harvey (Dobbie) has dark violet blotches of fine
62 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
circular form, edged with creamy white and violet ;
the upper petals are purple violet and white.
Wilfred Staton (Lister) has plum-coloured blotches, mar-
gined with chrome-yellow and shaded with light rose ;
the top petals are chrome-yellow, edged and shaded
with violet.
SHOW OR OLD ENGLISH PANSIES
The selection given below includes thirty-six named
varieties representative of the different classes and sec-
tions : —
Dark Selfs
Alex. Black.
Allan Stewart.
J. T. Howard.
Leslie Melville.
Wm. Fulton.
W. M'Queen.
Primrose Selfs
Allan Primrose.
Annie D. Lister.
Gladys Murray.
John Kidd.
Jane Stirling.
Lizzie Paul.
Yellow Grounds
Busby Beauty.
Claud Hamilton.
Dr. J. K. Campbell.
James Craik.
James Harvey.
Morning Star.
White Selfs
Busby White.
Jane Grant.
Jeannie Carswell.
Mrs. W. Peacock.
Mrs. C. Kay.
Mrs. John Neil.
OLD ENGLISH PANSIES
Yellow Selfs
Busby Yellow.
Charles Fraser.
James Bell.
John Henderson.
Katie.
Mrs. John Hunter.
While Grounds
Helen Smellie.
Miss Silver.
Mrs. Cuthbertson.
Mrs. A. Ollar.
Mrs. A. Ireland.
Mrs. M. Stewart.
Like the old Florist's Tulip, the Stage Carnation and
Auricula, and the Florist's Pink, the Show Pansy is only
now grown by a few enthusiasts.
CHAPTER VIII
THE HARDIEST VIOLAS
" Daughter of Spring's pure virgin light,
That bringest unto me
More joys than Autumn's splendours bright
Of grove and sky and sea."
IN the summer of 1907 the present writer arranged to carry
out an experiment, to extend over three years, for the pur-
pose of discovering those varieties of Violas which were
most perennial in their character. It is well known that a
great number of the most beautiful exhibition varieties will
not survive over a single winter if left standing in the open.
These varieties are often purchased because they look so
effective when staged on an exhibition table ; but dis-
appointment very often follows, unless they get into skilled
hands and are carefully propagated by cuttings each season.
It cannot be gainsaid that varieties which possess the
character of growing into clumps and surviving through
several winters in the open border are most advantageous
for many purposes. The trial, therefore, was undertaken
with the object of discovering which varieties would behave
in this way. The situation selected was in an open field
THE HARDIEST VIOLAS 65
of strong loam overlying clay situated in the county of
Essex. The ground was dug deeply and manured at the
end of the summer of 1907, and the plants were planted
in the month of October.
Varieties with White Flowers.— The following well-
known white flowered varieties were planted : Bethea,
Countess of Hopetoun, Christiana, Duchess of York,
Marchioness, Pencaitland, Purity, Snowflake, White Em-
press, Redbraes White, Virgin White, Alexandra, Mrs. H.
Pearce, White Beauty, Mrs. A. D. Parker, Seagull, E. C.
Barlow, Peace.
In the summer of 1908 all the plants were living, and
a Committee of Inspection then considered the following
the most effective ray less varieties : Snowflake, Purity, Mar-
chioness, Mrs. A. D. Parker, and Countess of Hopetoun ;
the best rayed varieties being Alexandra and Duchess of
York. Pencaitland, a rayed variety with heavy yellow
shading on the under petal, was extra good, and so was
Peace, which at times had a flush of pale lavender on the
upper petals.
Creamy White. — The following were planted : Cream
King, Devonshire Cream, Iliffe, and Sylvia. The best
were Sylvia and Cream King.
Primrose. — The following varieties are placed in their
order of merit : Primose Dame, Sulphurea, Ardwell Gem,
Maggie Clunas, and Daisy Grieve.
66 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
Yellow. — The following eleven varieties were planted :
Kingcup, A. J. Rowberry, Bullion, Klondyke, Royal Sove-
reign, Canary, Grievii, Redbraes Yellow, Walter Welsh,
Mrs. E. A. Cade, Wm. Lockwood.
The best rayless varieties were : Redbraes Yellow,
Royal Sovereign, and Kingcup ; the best rayed being
Walter Welsh and Bullion, also Grievii, which was very
dwarf and pretty.
Lavender Shades. — Six varieties were planted, and
the order of merit was as follows : Kitty Bell, Florizel,
Belfast Gem, Lady Marjorie, Miss Harding, Ariel.
Light- Blue Shades. — Seven varieties were planted, and
they succeeded in the following order : Maggie Mott, Blue
Duchess, Mauve Queen, Favourite, Ithuriel, Bridal Morn,
Lilacina.
Dark- Blue Shades. — The following were planted:
Ophelia, Chas. Jordan, Mrs. C. Turner, Admiral of the
Blues, Royal Scot, True Blue, Archd. Grant, Councillor
Waters, Jubilee, Blue Rock, Lady Warwick.
The best were adjudged to be Councillor Waters,
Jubilee, Archd. Grant, True Blue, Royal Scot, Admiral
of the Blues, and Ophelia.
Unclassed and Fancy Varieties. — The following
were planted : Glencoe, Countess of Kintore, Dr. Mac-
farlane, Blue Cloud, White Duchess, Ada Anderson,
Lady Grant, Mrs. Chichester, Mrs. J. H. Rowland, Wm.
THE HARDIEST VIOLAS 67
Neil, Iris, Crimson Redder. Those selected for special
notice were : Glencoe, bright bronze ; Dr. Macfarlane,
purple and lavender ; Blue Cloud, white with deep-
blue edging ; Ada Anderson, white with rosy edging ;
Mrs. Chichester, white with violet edging ; Wm. Neil,
rose colour, of very dwarf habit ; and Crimson Bedder,
a fine crimson purple variety. The foregoing, as already
stated, is the substance of a report made in the summer
of 1908.
At the end of the flowering season of 1908 the old
growths were cut away and the beds were top-dressed
with a little old manure. After passing through the
winter of 1908-9, the following varieties were found to
show up best in the summer of 1909 : —
White. — Snowflake, a beautiful, pure white, rayless
flower of excellent substance, and a strong
grower.
Seagull, a charming, rayless flower of fine form,
the plant being compact and rather dwarf.
Peace, similar in form and habit to Seagull, but
shows a lavender shading in continued damp
weather ; rayless.
Sylvia (Dr. Stuart's), a fine rayless, creamy-white
variety.
White Empress, a large-flowered, rather tall-growing,
cream-coloured variety ; rayless.
68 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
Pencaitland, white, with yellow blotch and rays,
dwarf in habit, and very effective as a bedder.
Yellow. — Kingcup, a clear yellow, rayless flower of
rather tall growth.
Royal Sovereign, dwarfer than Kingcup, golden
yellow ; rayless.
Redbraes Yellow, a splendid variety of medium
habit ; rayless.
Mrs. E. A. Cade, a fine flower medium in shade
and habit ; rayless.
Bullion, very bright and dwarf, early in bloom-
ing; rayed.
Walter Welsh, a tall, deep-coloured rayed variety ;
excellent for a back row in a bed of Violas.
Primrose. — Primrose Dame, a clear primrose colour,
rather tall, rayless, a most effective variety.
Sulphurea, dwarf in habit, very free in flowering ;
the large flowers are slightly rayed.
Light Blue and Lavender. — Blue Duchess, a distinct
variety of a pale-blue shade, rayed like Duchess
of Fife, from which variety it is a sport.
Kitty Bell, lavender, hardy and free ; rayless.
Florizel, similar in colour to Kitty Bell ; rayless.
Wm. Neil, rosy lavender.
Dark Blue. — Blue Rock, a most effective variety, and
extremely hardy.
THE HARDIEST VIOLAS 69
Royal Scot, similar, in a mass, to Blue Rock, but not
such a fine flower.
Archibald Grant, deepest violet, a strong grower,
rather late in blooming.
Edina, deep purple violet, with blotch, really a bed-
ding Pansy.
Crimson Purple. — Jubilee proved to be the hardiest of
the crimson-purple varieties ; it is medium in
height, and most floriferous.
In the autumn of 1909 the surviving plants were treated
again as they were in 1908. In the spring of 1910 the
following varieties, after having stood undisturbed for three
winters in the same place, give promise of excellent results
in the summer of 1910 : —
WWfc.— Seagull, Peace, White Beauty, Pencaitland,
Christiana.
Cream. — Sylvia.
Primrose. — Sulphurea.
Yellows. — Grievii, Redbraes Yellow, Klondyke, Mrs.
E. A. Cade.
light Blue. — Blue Duchess, Lilacina (bedding Pansy).
Dark Blue. — Royal Scot, Archd. Grant, Edina, Blue
Rock, Jubilee.
Unclassed and Fancy. — Wm. Neil, Blue Cloud.
Some varieties appear in this last list which appear only
in the first list. This is explained through their being less
70 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
effective during the first two years, but have now proved
to be more perennial than some of the others which were
more effective in 1908 and 1909. It is well known that
seedlings are much hardier and more perennial in their
character than most of the named varieties. This is so not
only with Pansies and Violas but with all florists' flowers.
The difficulty is to secure in any fair proportion of the
seedlings the same high quality possessed by the parents.
CHAPTER IX
FIFTY VARIETIES OF VIOLAS
" He saw her charming, but he saw not half
The charms her downcast modesty conceal'd."
THE fifty Violas enumerated below are large-flowered and
mostly long-stemmed varieties suitable for exhibition ; also
for growing to obtain good flowers for cutting for other
purposes : —
A. S. Prater, a large, cream-white flower, rayless, with
a distinct margin of rich mauve.
* Agnes Kay, white centre, almost rayless, edged with
heliotrope.
*Archd. Grant, rich, indigo-blue flowers on fine, long
foot-stalks.
Belfast Gem, smoky heliotrope on cream ground ; rayed.
Bethea, large, pure-white rayed flower.
Blanche, large, creamy-white flower ; rayless.
Bronze Kintore, a dark-bronze coloured flower.
Cheshire Cream, pure cream self ; almost rayless.
Cream King, rayless, cream-coloured flower.
Daisy Grieve, pale yellow, petals crimped at the edge.
72 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
Dr. M'Farlane, upper petals mauve, under petals very
dark, with a white eye.
*Duke ofArgyle, glossy-purple, striped with rose.
Ethel M'Culloch, lower petals, very dark — almost black ;
top petals, bright, azure-blue.
*Geo. C. Murray, smooth black bottom and side petals ;
top petals light, sky-blue.
* General Baden-Powell, large, orange-coloured, ray less self.
*Glencoe, lower petals rich mahogany, deepening towards
the centre ; upper petals copper colour.
Hector M'Donald, pure white centre, with fine rays,
edged with a broad margin of bluish purple.
Helen Paul, a rayless yellow flower of immense size.
*Helen Smellie, pure white centre without rays, distinctly
and evenly edged blue.
*Hugh Reid, rosy purple, a shade lighter on the top petals.
Jenny M{Gregor, violet, shaded with mauve ; a new
colour.
Jennie Houston, maroon shading to grey.
Jessie Baker, rayless, creamy-white, bordered with plum
purple.
*Kate Cochrane, lower petals crimson purple, with a trace
of lavender ; upper petals pale lavender.
Katie Cuthbertson, white, slightly flushed with clear
pink, centre of flower gradually deepening to rich
pinkish purple.
PLATE VI
FOUR SHADES OF BLUE VIOLAS
Maggie Mott.
Archd. Grant.
Admiral of the Blues.
Jenny M'Gregor.
FIFTY VARIETIES OF VIOLAS 75
*Kate Houston, white ground, heavily belted with rosy
mauve.
*Lady Knox, large primrose self ; rayless.
*Lawmuir, rich crimson streaked with magenta.
* Lizzie Storer, glossy black under petals, each tipped with
lavender ; upper petals clear lavender.
Lollie Roberts, white, rayless centre, beautifully bordered
with purple-lilac.
*Louie Granger, rose-coloured self.
*Mad. A. Gray, large white ; rayless.
*Madge Craig, lower petals deep rose, a little darker in
centre ; upper petals lavender flushed with rose.
Maggie Mott, soft mauve.
*Mary Burnie, creamy-white or primrose, edged with
dark heliotrope ; rayless.
Matthew Alexander, rosy ground striped with purple.
*Mrs. Chichester, white ground, flaked and edged with
purple.
*Mrs. C. M'Phail, heliotrope deepening to pale purple.
*Mrs. H. Pearce, large, pure-white, rayless self.
Mrs. J. H. Rowland, distinct shade of rose colour.
Nancy Marsh, deep violet, tipped with bluish mauve ;
upper petals mauve.
Neidpath Castle, under petals milky white ; top petals
lavender.
*Nellie Chapman, white, edged and shaded with blue.
76 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
Nellie Vine, large beautiful primrose self.
Nora Marrows, upper petals blush pink ; lower petals
yellow ; slightly rayed.
*Rose Noble, rich orange-yellow ; rayless.
Snowflake, a perfectly pure-white, rayless flower.
* Viola Stirling, creamy- white, edged with heliotrope.
*W. P. A. Smyth, cream ground clouded and edged with
heliotrope, very large.
Wm. Lockwood, a large, rayless, yellow self.
* An asterisk is placed at twenty-four distinct varieties, which
would form a good beginning for any grower, and a fine basis
for a larger collection.
CHAPTER X
THE SWEET VIOLET
(BY THE EDITOR)
"Violets dim
But sweeter than the lids of Juno's eyes
Or Cytherea's breath I "
NOTWITHSTANDING the attractions of other sections of
Violas, they are surpassed by the matchless perfume of the
Sweet Violet. Some of the flowers are single, others
double, whilst they exhibit shades in blue, purple, and
mauve, in addition to certain varieties which are pure-
white. These Violets are all varieties of Viola odorata,
a species indigenous to many parts of Europe, includ-
ing Britain. Just as the Pansy (Viola tricolor) is the first
flower a child usually desires to cultivate, so Violets are
amongst the first wild flowers children learn to gather
from the roadside. They are not the less sought after
because their habit is so humble that the fragrant
blossoms are frequently hidden by the ranker vegetation
around them.
" It takes us so much trouble to discover,
Stands first with most and ever with a lover."
77
78 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
In their natural habitats in Britain, Violets bloom from
about March to May, but it is possible to extend the season
a little at both ends by cultivating them in various aspects
out-of-doors. It is not, however, for this reason alone that
Violets are cultivated in gardens, but also because cultivated
flowers are superior in size to those gathered from the
hedgerow or sparse plantation, whilst the varieties in them-
selves are of better quality than the wild type. A more
artificial form of cultivation is practised in order to obtain
the flowers in winter and spring. This forcing is usually
carried out in frames, and, in districts free from the pre-
judicial atmospheric conditions of large towns, it is done
with comparative ease and gratifying success, provided the
few rules of procedure are thoroughly understood and
rigidly observed. On the contrary, if the cultivation is
careless or haphazard, failure is more certain to follow
in Violet culture in frames than in many other depart-
ments of gardening.
The great bulk of the flowers on sale in the markets
during winter are imported from Italy and France, but
after Christmas the supplies are augmented by home-grown
blooms from outdoor plants in the warmer counties, but
only a very few frame-forced Violets ever appear in the
markets. Every one is familiar with the general manner
in which the flowers are bunched for the market, but the
bunches vary in the different markets. What is termed
THE SWEET VIOLET 79
a " Market " bunch is the bunch as sent to the market by
the growers. These are frequently loosened and the same
quantity of flowers divided into two or more bunches for
the retail trade. It is one of the floral wonders in London
that Violets can be sold so cheaply by the numerous
flower-girls, whose cry of " Penny a bunch, sir/' is
familiar to every one. Whilst Violets are purchasable at
every street corner, they are none the less popular in the
high-class florist shops in Regent Street and the Central
Avenue in Covent Garden Market. They are used exten-
sively for all kinds of decoration, at funerals no less than
at weddings ; occasionally crosses, anchors, and other
devices are formed almost entirely with Violets.
On the Continent, Sweet Violets occupy similar positions
to that given them in Britain, and in America and Canada
they are not less appreciated. An American writer has
stated that in that country the Violet ranks third in com-
mercial importance amongst florists' flowers, and its season
extends for about seven months. Until a few years ago
the cultivation in America was not of the best, although so
general, but latterly much greater care has been taken to
produce flowers of the highest quality, and the trained
horticulturists at the experiment stations have devoted
themselves to studying the several fungus diseases that
attack the plants.
8o PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
VIOLET CULTURE OUT-OF-DOORS
The first things to consider are aspect and soil. In most
localities in Britain, but not all, the plants succeed best in
a north or north-west position — at any rate during the
summer months, because they do not like exposure to much
sunshine. These aspects are not conducive to early flower-
ing, but this can be got over by transplanting some of the
plants in September to a more sunny position — even a
border under a south wall. The soil should be of a fairly
retentive character, for Violets require moist, cool condi-
tions ; and it should be fairly well enriched with thoroughly
decayed manure. If the manuring is excessive or the
manure too fresh and strong, its effect will be to produce
extra vigorous foliage, which is not desirable. The soil
should be tilled deeply, whatever system of manuring is
adopted.
Propagation is effected by offsets (or runners), cuttings,
or by division of the crowns ; division being more
generally practised. This is done directly after the plants
have flowered, by taking them up and sorting out the
young but well-rooted crowns, rejecting the old, woody
stems which are unfit for planting. The younger crowns
are planted at distances of about 12 inches apart each
way. If the soil has been treated as described above, a
CULTURE OUT-OF-DOORS 81
little leaf-mould or similar light material may be mixed
with the surface soil before planting the Violets. When
the plants have become well established and are capable
of being lifted with a good ball of soil attached to the
roots, they can be transplanted into any position where
they are to flower, or, if desirable, left to bloom where
they are. The summer cultivation consists in pinching
out all runners, stirring the surface soil repeatedly with
the Dutch hoe, and affording water during dry weather,
the object being to encourage the development of strong,
perfectly matured crowns by autumn. Spraying with clear
water late in the afternoon of fine days is beneficial. Some
growers prefer to set their plants rather wider apart than
the distance already stated, and peg down three runners
around each plant. Excellent results are obtained from
either system, and as regards the latter method, it may be
applied to Strawberries with equally good results. A word
of caution is here necessary. Although the three runners
may be permitted, this should be the maximum number,
for it is just as impossible to get the best results from
Violets as from Strawberries if the runners are allowed
to grow as they please.
CULTIVATION IN FRAMES
Assuming this method of cultivation is adopted for
the purpose of supplying blooms in winter, the transplanta-
82 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
tion to the frames should be carried out in September.
Plants cultivated as already described are suitable at
that time for putting into the frames, being good big
specimens 8 or 10 inches across. Before planting can
be done, however, the frames must be prepared ; there-
fore let us turn our attention to these. The character
of the frames will depend upon the resources of the
garden, but in any case they should have a south
aspect. The amateur will often have to prepare an
improvised or temporary frame with sunken boards and
lights placed over them, whilst in many other cases
proper brick frames will be available. In either case
it is best not to use fire heat, for of all plants none is
more sensitive to its ill effects than the Sweet Violet.
What little heat is employed must be got from ferment-
ing materials. First, then, there must be placed in the
frame a bed of stable litter and leaves ; this must be at
least one foot deep, and more if it is possible. The
materials should be prepared for this purpose some
time previously by turning them every alternate day,
and allowing the volatile gases to escape from the litter.
Having formed the bed, and made it firm by treading,
a layer of soil about 6 inches deep must be placed over
it. The soil may consist of pasture turf of a rich loamy
nature, rather than sandy, and it should have been in
stack for 12 months. Some thoroughly decayed and
CULTIVATION IN FRAMES 83
dried cow-manure should be mixed with it, or failing
this some decomposed manure from a spent hotbed ;
but fresh horse-manure should not be employed. Some
good leaf-mould from decayed oak leaves will -have an
excellent effect, if the soil is inclined to be of a heavy
nature. Where good loam cannot be got the amateur
must make up his compost of old potting soil, decayed
vegetable refuse, and such materials. The lighter the
compost, the more necessary it is to add cow-manure.
The frame and its contents should be so arranged that
when all is completed, and the Violets are planted in
the bed, the leaves of the plants will be 2, or at most
3 inches from the glass, thus getting full exposure to
the light.
When all is ready the cultivator will proceed to the
out-of-door plantation and lift the best of his plants for
putting into the frame. He must do this work very
carefully, in order to avoid giving the plants a greater
check than is necessary. They must be lifted with big
balls of roots and soil and conveyed, without much
shaking, to the frame. In this they should be planted
at such distances that they will not quite touch each
other, but at the same time nicely furnish the frame.
When all have been planted, afford them a thorough
watering to settle the roots, and afterwards keep the
frame closed for a few days until the plants begin to
84 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
make roots, but no longer. This little proviso is insisted
upon, for Violets must have fresh air or perish. There-
fore, so soon as they have become re-established, admit
air to the frame whenever the state of the weather will
permit of this being done, and continue this practice all
through the winter, removing the sash lights altogether
during fine, warm days. Keep the glass as clean as pos-
sible, for dirty glass is an obstruction to light. During
exceptional frost a few garden mats may be thrown
over the frames early in the afternoon, removing them
again the next morning. Fog is the greatest deterrent
to Violet culture in frames. It causes the leaves to damp
off, and in severe cases suffices to kill the plants out-
right. This is one reason why Violets cannot be forced
successfully in the neighbourhood of large towns, the
other reason being that the amount of light is insufficient
to meet the requirements of the plants. In crowded
manufacturing districts it is not worth the effort to
attempt their cultivation. There are plenty of places,
however, where they will succeed well ; but although it
is not desired to discourage the beginner, it has to be
pointed out that careful attention to details is necessary
to preserve the plants from Red Spider and the various
fungus diseases to which they are subject. These pests
will be referred to presently ; for the moment the cul-
tivator should further note that the chief requirements
VIOLET CULTURE AT WINDSOR 85
during winter and spring, beyond the operations of
watering and ventilating, will consist in stirring the
surface soil frequently, and observing the most scrupu-
lous cleanliness in removing any decayed foliage from
the Violets. Such is the management of the plants
whilst in the frame. If these details are faithfully carried
out the result will be plenty of large, sweetly perfumed
flowers, borne on long, stiff stems, equal to the best
Violets obtainable. In April, or at the latest in May,
the work of propagating will commence afresh, and it
should be carried out in the manner described already.
The youngest and best of the crowns should be planted
on a north or north-west border, and be kept free from
runners until the following September, by which time
another batch of excellent plants will be ready for the
freshly-prepared frames.
VIOLET CULTURE AT WINDSOR
In the Royal Gardens at Windsor, as many as 3000
Violet plants are cultivated in frames with exceptional
success. The method of propagation practised there is
by cuttings taken in September. The following details of
cultivation have been furnished by Mr. John Dunn, under
whose care the Windsor plants are grown : —
"The plants are propagated early in September by
86 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
cuttings. These are inserted 4 inches apart, either in a cold
frame, or on a south border where protection can be given
them in rough, winter weather. The cuttings chosen are
those possessing a crown bud, for these are usually plentiful
at the time the runners are being removed from the plants
grown for winter flowering. By this method strong young
plants are ready for planting out by the first week in April ;
they have a great advantage over plants propagated by
division in May, as practised by some growers. In April
the young plants are planted in a border. Before planting,
a liberal supply of decayed leaves is dug in, in preference
to any kind of farm-yard manure. During summer the
plants should be syringed every afternoon or evening to
encourage clean, healthy growth. Red Spider is the result
of poverty caused by want of moisture. Slight dustings
of soot should also be given during damp weather. The
runners must be removed from plants intended for winter
flowering in frames, so that good, plump crowns may be
ready for planting in pits by the first week in September.
The hotbed is composed of leaves, saved for the purpose,
and trodden lightly together to the depth of 3 feet or more.
Over this bed we place the compost 9 inches deep, consist-
ing of loam and leaf -mould in equal parts. The leaf-mould
is collected from plantations where the leaves have lain
without fermenting, and thus they have not become sour.
" The plants are carefully lifted for planting in the pits,
PLATE Vll
SWEET VIOLETS
Marie Louise.
Princess of Wales.
Mrs. J. J. Astor.
Marie Louise.
Comte de Brazza.
VIOLET CULTURE IN POTS 89
and, when planting has been done, a liberal watering is
given to settle the soil about the roots. The gentle heat
created by the bed of leaves soon promotes root growth.
The lights are left off until the approach of frost, and
although the bed is well filled with young, healthy roots,
the plants have so far made very little top-growth. Violets
treated in this way provide flowers all through the winter.
Ventilation is given freely, and watering is done thoroughly
when this is necessary, which is not more than three or
four times during the winter months.
" At Windsor, 3000 Violet plants are cultivated in pits,
and the success achieved is largely due to the liberal use
of leaf-mould, and the system of propagating the plants
in September.
" Only three varieties are grown ; these are Princess of
Wales, Lady Hume Campbell, and Marie Louise."
CULTURE OF VIOLETS IN POTS
Having said so much about the cultivation of Violets
in the open ground and in frames, brief reference may
be made to yet a third method by which plants are cul-
tivated for supplying blooms in winter. Although the
public is not accustomed to see Violets growing in pots,
the plants nevertheless succeed as well as other kinds when
grown in these convenient receptacles ; and there are few
9o PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
more agreeable vase plants than a Violet bearing numerous
expanded blossoms. If used for this purpose in a dwell-
ing room, however, they do not remain decorative for
long, and they seldom continue blooming well after they
are returned to the growing house or frame.
We will suppose that division of the crowns takes place
in May ; the younger crowns may be put singly into pots
straight away, or be planted in the shady border for the
summer and potted up early in September. The plants
can be kept in 6 or 7 inch pots, if they are permanently cul-
tivated in these receptacles ; but on the contrary, if they are
potted up from the border at the end of the summer, it will
be found that 6-inch pots are too small ; probably 8-inch
pots will be more convenient — for the roots must not be
sacrificed. So much has been said in regard to maintain-
ing proper conditions in the frame, it is unnecessary to
repeat it, for the reader will know that the nearer he can
grow his pot plants to those conditions, the more likely
he is to succeed in their culture. .The pot plants need
light and fresh air just as the others do, and the atten-
tion to watering must be much more frequent ; when the
flowers are being produced, some diluted, non-smelling,
manurial stimulant may be given in the water. Nothing
has been said about the potting compost. If the cultivator
can choose his materials, then he had better select good
turfy loam, which has been stacked for at least twelve
VARIETY IN SWEET VIOLETS 91
months, and mix with this some well-rotted leaf -mould, a
little rough silver sand, and some dry cow-manure, first
rubbing the manure through a half-inch meshed sieve.
Amateurs in country districts are recommended to try
a few Violets by this system of culture, and those who
succeed in getting strong, floriferous plants in winter and
early spring will be very likely to regard it as one of the
most pleasant incidents in their horticultural experience.
We will now consider a few of the varieties.
VARIETY IN SWEET VIOLETS
In common with most garden plants, the Sweet Violet
has responded very liberally to man's desire for variety.
Under cultivation the modest little flower has given forth
variation after variation, and cultivators appear to have
selected their sorts for two qualities, colour and size. The
number of shades has been materially increased, for whilst
some varieties are of the deepest purple conceivable,
others are quite of a Violet tint, some are blue and others
white, and one or two approach to a shade of pink. In
size, the development has been so considerable that there
is now what is termed the " Pansy " strain, embracing such
varieties as California, Princess Beatrice, and Princess of
Wales. The flowers of the two latter varieties, more
especially, are like small flowered Pansies, and their attrac-
92 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
tiveness suffers somewhat in the fact that the characteristic
and pleasing form of the wild Violet has become modified
in these large blooms. Nevertheless, they are first in the
public estimation, and their market value is unquestioned ;
many of the new sorts have been introduced from the
Continent, and others from America, whilst few have
originated in our own country.
DOUBLE FLOWERS
De Parme. — This is of pale lavender - purple, and
specially suited for frame culture. It flowers earlier
than Neapolitan.
King of Violets. — This flower lacks refinement, and
should only be cultivated out-of-doors. The colour is
deep indigo-blue.
Lady Hume Campbell. — One of the very best late-
flowering kinds.
Marie Louise. — One of the most popular of all double
Violets. The colour is mauve-blue with a white eye. Two
blooms are illustrated in the plate, one lighter and the
other richer coloured, owing to details in the cultivation.
Mdlle. Bertha Barron. — This variety is also known as
Victoria. The plants are vigorous but of compact growth.
The colour is rich blue.
Mrs. J. J. Astor. — In this flower may be seen an
DOUBLE VIOLETS 93
approach to a double, pink-coloured Violet. A flower
is shown in the plate between two blooms of Marie Louise.
Mrs. Arthur. — A new variety at present considered
better than Marie Louise, which it much resembles. A
few plants should be given a trial.
Mrs. D'Arcy. — Another new sort with flowers of a
distinct shade of mauve.
Neapolitan. — A lavender-coloured flower with white
eye. One of the very best for forcing,
New York. — A variety much like Marie Louise, except
that the flowers are a shade of mauve.
BEST DOUBLE WHITE VIOLET
The best double white Violet is Comte de Brazza, also
known as Swanley White. The flowers are very fine, but
in some districts the plants show a weakness in constitution.
This variety is illustrated in the plate.
SINGLE FLOWERS
Amiral Avellan. — A very old variety, but still grown
for its very sweetly scented reddish-coloured flowers.
Argentaflora. — This flower is white, tinged with pink,
of small size, but possessing strong stems.
Baronne A. de Rothschild. — A fine new variety with
large, purple flowers.
94 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
Cyclops. — The peculiarity of this variety is that the
blue flowers have a rosette of white petals in the centre.
La France. — This is one of the newer type, having large
roundish flowers of a violet-blue shade.
Princess of Wales. — The purple flowers of this variety
are as large as many Violas. It was first exhibited from
Windsor, but was probably introduced there from the
Continent. A fine bloom is illustrated in the plate.
Rose Perle. — One of the most distinct of Violets, being
of a rose colour with white centre. The blooms are -of
medium size.
St. Helena. — This variety is said to have been introduced
from St. Helena. The flowers are bluish mauve, and are
most freely produced.
Victoria Regina. — This variety belongs to the low-
habited section, having small foliage but producing a great
number of runners, which flower abundantly.
White Czar. — The White Czar is not always constant,
owing to some of the flowers coming blue.
Sulphurea. — The newest approach to a single yellow
Sweet Violet.
PESTS
To mention pests, undoubtedly one of the worst is
Red Spider. Out-of-doors, it is most prevalent when the
plants are cultivated in hungry, dry soils exposed to sun-
FUNGUS DISEASES 95
shine, or so placed that the plants fail to get sufficient
moisture. In- frames the same pest abounds if much fire
heat is used or the matter of ventilation is treated with
carelessness. It will soon spread if drought is present. A
little sulphur applied as a powder, or mixed with water and
syringed on the plants, will usually check the pest, pro-
vided the general conditions are what they ought to be.
If aphides or green-fly appears in frames they should be
treated with occasional vapourings with one of the nicotine
compounds. Wire-worms are very destructive if these are
present in the loam. In addition to these pests there is
the slug, which feeds most voraciously upon the tender
young leaves if allowed to have its own way ; therefore
traps must be set, and in addition this pest must be hunted
for at night with a good lamp.
FUNGUS DISEASES
As a general rule it is the frame-grown plants that suffer
most from fungus diseases, but those growing out-of-doors
are not immune from attacks. An instance has just come
to the writer's notice of two collections suffering from
attacks of Urocystis violae. This disease causes the leaves
and leaf petioles to become swollen and eventually burst.
At first sight the condition looks as if it were the result of a
gall-forming insect, but when the rupture takes place the
96 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
black spores can be seen easily, and the character of the
malady is thereupon disclosed. This is such a deep-seated
disease that spraying is of little use. The only thing to be
done is to pick off and burn any diseased foliage before
the spores are distributed ; or in very bad attacks, to burn
all the plants and get a fresh stock.
Violet Rust (Puccinia violce). — This disease is due to
another parasitic fungus that grows in the tissues of the
plant. Its presence is denoted by pustules of powdery
uredospores which appear on the leaves. The disease is
somewhat like, but not identical with, that which attacks
the Hollyhock. On its first appearance all affected leaves
should be removed from the plants and burnt.
Violet Black Mould (Cercospora violce). — The presence
of this disease may be detected by pale spots appearing on
the leaves. These spots eventually develop tufts of short,
erect threads. It is not so serious as the diseases already
mentioned ; nevertheless the plants should be sprayed with
the Bordeaux mixture directly the disease is detected.
This preparation can be purchased from horticultural
sundries-men.
Violet Mildew (Peronospora violce). — This fungus is
like that which attacks the potato haulm and tubers. It
attacks Pansies as well as Sweet Violets, and causes a
whitish, felt-like covering on the under surface of the leaves.
Like all mildews, this disease spreads quickest in damp
FUNGUS DISEASES 97
weather or in a stagnant atmosphere ; it will be less likely
to attack Violets in frames if careful attention is given to
ventilating the frames ; in severe cases the plants may be
syringed with potassium sulphide, at the rate of i oz. of
potassium sulphide (or liver of sulphur) to i\ gallons of
water. Dissolve the potassium sulphide in a quart of hot
water ; then make it up to 2 \ gallons with cold water.
Ascochyta violae. — This is another disease that Violets
have exhibited in this country when cultivated in frames.
An attack may be identified by the presence of scorched-
like patches on the leaves. From these patches numerous
minute spores are produced, and these, falling from the
leaves to the ground, are liable to perpetuate the disease.
Where a bad attack is experienced, the most satisfactory
plan is to burn the plants, sterilise the soil or remove it
to an out-of-the-way part of the garden, and thoroughly
disinfect the frame before planting fresh stock. When the
plants are well established, the plant and soil may be
sprayed at intervals of a fortnight with potassium sulphide,
at the strength of i oz. to 3 gallons of water.
CHAPTER XI
THE GENUS VIOLA
SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL SPECIES
THE Viola family is a large one, consisting of about 200
species, the greater number being spread over the northern
temperate regions, while thirty are found in South America,
two in South Africa, and eight in Australia and New
Zealand. They are beautiful, woodland plants, and they
also inhabit hedge banks, open pastures, and cultivated
fields. Most of the species are perennial, and the plants
are of dwarf habit. In this country they are nearly all
easy to grow in light, rich soil, preferably in half-shady
situations, although many of them flourish in the open
border. In many of the species the flowers are cleisto-
gamous, the larger petalled flowers appearing first, but
producing little or no seed, while later, small petalled
fertile flowers are produced which furnish seed. The
section to which the Pansy (V. tricolor) belongs is an ex-
ception, for in this case all the flowers are fertile. Violas
can be propagated by division of the roots, by seeds,
runners, or cuttings. About fifty species are in cultivation,
PRINCIPAL SPECIES OF VIOLA 99
the greater number of which are only found in Botanic
Gardens.
V. alpina. — This grows at high elevations on the
Eastern Alps. It has small, oval-shaped leaves borne on
long stalks. The flowers are purple and have a short spur.
V. altaica. — This species is supposed to be one of the
parents of the cultivated Pansy ; all those with pale-yellow
petals with an undulated margin being derived from this
plant. It is a native of the Altai Mountains, and has large
pale-yellow flowers, with a few dark-purple lines near the
base of the petals. It was introduced into cultivation in
1805, and the plants are easily propagated by seeds or
cuttings.
V. arenaria. — This is a rare native plant found in
Teesdale. It has small leaves and pale-blue flowers. Its
native habitat extends into various parts of Europe.
, V. biflora,— The twin-flowered Violet is a dainty little
plant found on the Alps of Europe, and also in Siberia.
It has small, bright-yellow flowers, and must be given a
moist position. It was introduced in 1752.
V. blanda. — An early flowering species from North
America, with pubescent leaves, and white, small, faintly-
scented flowers ; the lateral petals are veined with lilac.
V. calcarata.— The alpine Pansy is a lovely plant,
forming tufts of foliage, and bearing large violet and
purple flowers in the typical plant. There are white,
ioo PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
yellow (var. Zoysii), and pale lilac forms in cultivation,
it being a most variable plant. It was introduced from
the European Alps in 1752.
V. canadensis. — This is a handsome plant, growing
nearly one foot high, with white sweetly-scented flowers
tinged with violet. It is a native of Canada, and was
introduced in 1783. V. Rydbergii is the Colorado form
of this species. Both plants require a shady situation.
V. canina (Dog Violet). — This well-known species is
a native of Britain and other countries. The flowers are
blue, and they have a yellow spur. The species is very
variable, one variety having pure white flowers.
V. cenisia. — A lime-loving species from the Alps, with
violet flowers and a slender, arching spur. It grows about
6 inches high, and has slightly hairy leaves. 1759.
V. cornuta (Horned Viola). — A free-growing species
forming dense carpets of foliage, and large, light-purple
flowers. It is a valuable spring and summer flowering
plant. There is also a pure white-flowered form, as well
as other colour varieties, some of which are shown on the
coloured plate. It was introduced from the Pyrenees
in 1776, and is supposed to be one of the parents of the
bedding Violas.
V. cucullata. — This Violet has the margins of the leaves
turned up so as to resemble a kind of cup. It is a common
North American Violet, and will grow almost anywhere.
PLATE VIII
THREE VARIETIES OF VIOLA CORNUTA
PRINCIPAL SPECIES OF VIOLA 103
The flowers of the type are purple and of good size. There
is also a pure white variety. V. septentrionale, with striped,
white flowers, is also a form of this species, which has been
in cultivation since 1795.
V. elatior. — This is a very distinct species growing
over one foot high, having a bush habit and erect stems ;
the flowers are pale blue. It is a native of Europe.
V. gracilis. — A beautiful, dwarf, free -flowering kind
from Greece, with large, deep-purple flowers that appear in
spring and summer. It is a valuable plant for the rock
garden or border. Although introduced in 1817, it has
only recently become plentiful in gardens. The variety
Valderia (heterophylla) is a charming variety from the
Tyrol, and with smaller violet-blue flowers spotted with
darker violet and white.
V. hastata is a North American species with hastate
leaves and pale, violet-coloured flowers.
V. hederacea. — A charming species of creeping habit,
only 2 inches high, with lovely, lilac-blue and white flowers.
These are produced freely in summer, and are very attrac-
tive. The plant likes a moist position. It is also known
as Erpetion reniforme, and is a native of Australia, and is
only hardy in very sheltered situations.
V. hirta A native and European plant closely allied
to V. odorata, but very faintly scented, and with paler
flowers.
104 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
V. Jooi. — A compact-growing European species with
fragrant flowers.
V. lutea. — This is considered to be a form of V. tricolor,
and has large, yellow flowers with purple blotches. It is
very free in flowering, and has a spreading habit. This
species has been used for crossing with the Show Pansy to
produce the modern Violas.
V. mirabilis. — This species bears sweetly-scented, pale
violet-coloured flowers in April and May.
V. Munbyana. — This plant produces a profusion of
large, rich-violet flowers through spring and summer. It
is a free-growing plant, soon forming a broad carpet of
creeping stems. Closely allied to V. lutea. Native of Spain
and other places.
V. Nuttallii. — This species grows on the sandy plains of
the Missouri in North America ; it has pale-yellow flowers.
V. odorata (Sweet Violet).— -The delightful fragrance of
this species makes it a favourite in every garden. It is
a native of this country, and is found over the whole of
Europe, extending even into Asia. There are numerous
varieties, which have been greatly improved for garden pur-
poses. The flowers range in colour from blue to red, purple,
and white. V. odorata pallida-plena, the Neapolitan Violet,
has sweet-scented, double flowers of a pale-lavender shade.
V. paimata. — A North American species, closely allied
to V. cucullata, but its mature leaves are palmately-lobed.
PRINCIPAL SPECIES OF VIOLA 105
Its native habitat is in low grounds and woods, and it bears
bright blue, rarely white, flowers.
V. palustris. — This is a marsh-loving species, with reni-
form leaves and lilac-coloured or white flowers with short
spurs. It is widely spread over the northern temperate
regions, including Britain.
V. Patrinii. — This species is also widely distributed
from Russia to Japan. It is distinct on account of the
leaves having winged petioles. The purple flowers are of
medium size.
V. pedata — A beautiful species found growing in dry
sandy woods and rocky hills in North America. The
leaves are pedately divided into about seven linear divisions,
while the large, bright-blue flowers are freely produced.
V. p. var. bicolor is a handsome kind, with the two upper
petals of a deep violet colour. There is also a pure white
form. It was introduced in 1759.
V. pedatifida (syn. V. delphinifolia). — This species is
closely allied to V. pedata, but has fewer divisions of the
leaves, and smaller, brilliant-blue flowers. It grows on the
prairies of Missouri in North America.
V. persicifolia (syn. V. stagnina) is a form of V.
canina, but rather taller in habit, with pale-blue or white
flowers. It is usually found in boggy ground, and is a
native of this country and other parts of Europe. The
leaves are rather long and narrow.
106 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
V. pinnata (syn. V. dissecta). — This species grows about
6 inches high, and has palmati -partite leaves with toothed
segments. It is found in mountain pastures on the Alps
of Europe, and is somewhat rare. The violet-coloured
flowers are produced in June. The species has been in
cultivation since 1752. A form of this species, var. chcero-
phylloides, with larger and more attractive flowers, is found
in Japan.
V. pratensis. — This is similar to V. persicifolia, but is
usually found in drier meadows and woods.
V. primulaefolia. — A species inhabiting wet meadows
in North America. It has sweet-scented white flowers, the
lateral petals being bearded.
V. pubescens. — A free-growing, North American plant,
6 inches to 12 inches high, found in dry woods. It is
softly pubescent, with large leaves and yellow flowers ; the
lower petals are veined with purple. The variety scabrius-
cula is a form with decumbent stems, and smaller, some-
what scabrous leaves.
V. rostrata. — This is also a North American species
found in moist, rocky situations. The large flowers are
pale blue and have a slender spur.
V. rothomagensis. — This belongs to the same type as
V. cornuta. It has bright-blue flowers, the side petals and
lip striped with black. It flowers from April to August, and
is a native of France and Belgium.
PRINCIPAL SPECIES OF VIOLA 107
V. rotundifolia.— At flowering time the leaves of this
North American plant are small, but later they develop
to a large size, 4 inches in diameter. It is found in
shady rocky situations, and bears good-sized pale-blue
flowers.
V. sagittata.— Found on hillsides and fields in North
America. It has hastate leaves and bright-blue flowers.
V. Sarmentosa. — A creeping species, with stolons and
cordate leaves. The flowers are yellow.
V. striata. — A strong-growing, attractive plant, often
12 inches high. The flowers are cream-coloured, the lower
petals being veined with purple. It grows in wet meadows
in mountainous districts in North America.
V. suavis. — The Russian Violet is closely allied to our
native Sweet Violet, but is distinguished by its pale-
green leaves and larger, paler flowers. It was introduced
from the Caucasus in 1820.
V. sylvestris (Wood Violet). — A well-known native
plant with bluish-purple and lilac-coloured flowers, pro-
duced on axillary branches from a radical rosette. It is
also known as V. sylvatica. There are several forms of
this species, such as the varieties Reichenbackiana and
Riviniana.
V. tricolor. — (Heartsease ; Pansy). — A common very
variable annual, found in cultivated fields. The flowers
vary from small yellow blooms to large tricolored ones, blue,
io8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
purple, and yellow. It is one of the parents of the garden
Pansy. The variety arvensis has small, yellow flowers.
V. uliginosa. — This European species is similar in habit
to the American V. cucullata, but the leaves are flat. The
blue-purple flowers have no scent.
V. variegata. — A species from Eastern Asia, with varie-
gated leaves and pale violet-coloured flowers. It blooms
in May and June.
The above-mentioned species are merely the commonest
of those in cultivation.
CHAPTER XII
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
JANUARY
IF the beds where the Pansies and Violas are to be
planted in spring were not prepared in the autumn, they
should be prepared this month. The ground ought to
be trenched and enriched with well-decayed cow or horse
manure* The bottom spit should be moved to ensure
perfect drainage, but it should not be brought to the
surface. A small proportion of fresh material should be
incorporated with the surface soil. There is nothing
better for this than some good, turfy loam which has
been carefully picked over to remove any wire-worms.
Plants in frames will require to be aired every fine day,
and only shut up closely when frost is likely to occur.
Violets in frames should be kept scrupulously clean.
FEBRUARY
Plants in frames require the same attention as in
January. Stir the surface of the soil between the rows
with a very narrow fork or with a pointed stick, removing
109
no PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
at the same time any decayed foliage. February is a
trying month for plants in frames ; the lights should never
be shut up quite closely except during frost. It is not
likely the plants will require water, but should the surface
get very dry a gentle watering should be given in the
forenoon of a fine day. This is a good time to sow seed
under glass to produce plants to bloom in summer. Violets
in frames will now be yielding large quantities of bloom.
MARCH
The frames must now be ventilated more freely, so as
to get the plants well hardened by the end of the month.
On fine days the sashes can be removed altogether for
an hour or two in the middle of the day, and by the end
of the month, unless the weather is unusually cold, the
sashes may be dispensed with if the plants have been
gradually hardened off. This month all plans for planting
should be completed, and beds being lightly forked over
as recommended in the chapter on culture. It is quite
time the ground was prepared for Violets to be removed
shortly from the frames.
APRIL
In some districts it is desirable to plant out in March,
and in all districts planting should be completed as early
as possible in April. This applies to seedlings as well as
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS in
t6 named varieties. A sharp look-out must be kept for
slugs and snails in beds of newly planted Pansies, as one
of these creatures will destroy a plant in a night. If green-
fly appears, the plants must be syringed as recommended.
Early flower-buds should be removed, to allow the plants
to gain strength. The Violets in frames should be divided
this month and the best crowns planted on an outside
border, according to the directions given in the chapter on
Violets.
MAY
The surface of the beds should be stirred and kept
free of weeds. The growths as they elongate will require
attention in the way of pegging and staking if exhibi-
tion flowers are required, and surplus growths must be
pinched out. By the end of the month some very fine
flowers will be obtained. It is usual at the Temple Show
in London at the end of this month to see remarkably
fine flowers of both Pansies and Violas. This month and
next is a good time to sow seeds in frames to get strong
plants for September planting.
JUNE
In the southern counties Pansy beds should be mulched
with old, sifted manure and well watered in dry weather.
Grand flowers should be had all this month, and it should
ii2 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
be the happiest of all for the Pansy grower. If a few pods
of seed are desired, flowers should be left on special plants
for this purpose. It is well to bear in mind that blooms
should be removed whenever they begin to fade if a long
period of bloom is desired. In any case they should be
removed on the score of tidiness.
JULY
This is a trying month for Pansies and Violas in the
south, and it is often well to remove a large number of the
strong growths and to encourage, by attention to watering,
&c., the young growths from the centres of the plants to
develop. For autumn-planting, cuttings should be in-
serted this month in a shaded situation, either in a cold
frame or in the open. A rather sharp compost of sand,
loam, and leaf-mould is a fine medium for rooting. Violas
should be sprayed with clear water at the end of the
afternoon on hot days.
AUGUST
Pansies and Violas will still be doing well in the north,
but by the end of the month propagation should begin
in earnest for next year's stock. Flowers are exhibited
at the southern shows well up -to the middle of July, and
in August and September they are always found at north-
country shows, being remarkably fine in September at
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS 113
exhibitions in Scotland. Frames should be prepared for
Sweet Violets.
SEPTEMBER
Cuttings may be put in frames any time during this
month, and they will make fine plants for spring-planting.
Beds for autumn-planting should be prepared, and the
planting begun by the end of the month. Sweet Violets
should be lifted from the outside border and planted in
frames.
OCTOBER
Autumn-planting ought to be completed during the
first eight or ten days of this month. This applies not
only to summer-struck cuttings but also to seedlings sown
in May or June. Frames filled with newly inserted cut-
tings must be shaded in bright weather, and gently watered
in dry weather. Sweet Violets which were planted in frames
last month need all the air possible during October.
NOVEMBER
Plants in frames will require air on bright days. It is
a good plan to leave an inch or two of air continuously
by raising the back of the sash, as damp is a greater
enemy than cold. This month the preparation of ground
for spring-planting should be begun.
H
ii4 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING
DECEMBER
The work this month is similar to that in November,
but as the weather will probably be colder, mats should
be in readiness to place over the frames when there is
more frost than one or two degrees. It will be well to take
advantage of a fine day to stir the surface soil between
the lines of the plants. These remarks apply to Sweet
Violets, Pansies, and Violas.
INDEX
BEDDING, Violas for, 45
Blotch confused with eye, 6
Blotches, commencement of, as shown
in Gardeners' Chronicle figure, 6
Border Witch, 21
CALENDAR of Operations, 109
Cliveden Blue from Russia, 1 1
Conference in Birmingham Botanic
Gardens, 10 .
Cuttings, culture from, 28
planting of, in a frame, 31
planted out-of-doors, 32
DECORATIONS, table, 50
Diseases, fungus, 95
Ascochyta violse, 97
Violet black mould, 96
Violet mildew, 96
Violet rust, 96
Division of the plants, propagation by,
33
EXHIBITIONS, arrangement of Pansies
and Violas at, 43 ; cultivation of
choice flowers for, 35
GREENHOUSE in spring, culture of
Pansies and Violas in a, 44
HARDINESS, trials to ascertain, 64
History : Bath, R. H., 9 ; Baxter, John,
n, 18; Campbell, Matthew, 9;
Cocker & Sons. 17 ; Crane, D. P.,
22; Dean, Richard, 9, 10 16;
Dean, William, 8, 17 ; Dicksons and
Co., 9, 16, 17, 18, 20; Dobbie and
Co., 18, 19, 22 ; Downie, John, 8 ;
Downie & Laird, 9 ; Fleming,
John, 10 ; Grieve, James, II, 17,
22 ; Henderson, Andrew, 8 ; Hen-
derson & Son, E. G., 15 ; Hooper,
Henry, 9 ; Irvine, Andrew, 9;
Lister, Alex., 9 ; Lord Gambier and
Viola tricolor, 4 ; M'Kee, Samuel,
9; Pansies at end of eighteenth
century, 4; Pansies, show or old
English, 62; Paul, William, 9;
Robinson, W., 20; Salter, John,
8, ii ; Smellie, John, 9; Stuart,
Charles, 19 ; Stuart, J. D., 9, 17,
19 ; Sutherland, John, 9 ; Syden-
ham, William, 9, 22; Turner,
Charles, 9; Westland, G., 17;
Williams, B. S. (Introduction of V.
cornuta), 1 1 ; Wythes, Mr. George,
15 ; Wittrock, Prof. V. B., 7
INTRODUCTION, i
LIQUID manure, use of, 41
MAGPIE, the variety, 1 1
Massing, Violas for, 47
PANSY, fancy, rise of the, 7
Pansy, history and development of the, 4
INDEX
Pansy, the Fancy, 2
Pansy, the Show, 2
Pansies, select list of fifty varieties of,
55
Pests, 94
ROSE beds, Violas in, 48
Royal Horticultural Society's Reports,
22
SCOTTISH raisers, 9
Seed, culture from, 23
Seedling varieties, raising new, 51
Seeds, time to sow, 24
TABLE decorations, 50
Tufted Pansies, the term, 3
VARIETIES, raising new, 51
Viola cornuta "Perfection," II, 18
Viola lutea, u, 12
Viola, the Latin name for genus, 3
Viola, the principal species of, 98
Viola tricolor, Thompson's early culti-
vation of, 4
Violas, history of, 9 ; hybridising or
crossing wild varieties of, 21 ; ray-
less, 21 ; list of fifty varieties of,
71 ; the hardiest, 64
Violet, the Sweet, 77 ; list of varieties
of, 91
Violet-culture in frames, 81 ; in pots,
89 ; out-of-doors, 81
Violetta, 3 ; history of, 21
WINDSOR, Violet-culture in the royal
gardens at, 85
THE END
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