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BAEDEKER'S  GUIDE  BOOKS. 

GKEAT  BKITAIN,  vdlk  16  hl^pu,  3U  Plana,  and  a  Fam 
Kpurtti  EdJtit^n.    IBiTT.  tO 

L0M>ON  A.M)  ITS  EKVmOJN^S,  with  3  Mapi  and  ISJ 

EiftVEiiith  Eaitioti.    1898.  6 

THE  UNITED  STATES,  with  ah  ExcuRaiojj  wio  M 

VVitb  ly  Mai>*  &£id  24  PlitHfl.    Second  EdiliDii.     ItiiJtt.  13 

THE  DOMINION  OF  CANADA,  wim  Newfoodlah 

Alaska*   WitU  lU  Maps  aad  7  Plana.  Sti^Jund  KtUliuii.  IMt  & 

BELGIUM  A^l>  HOLLAND,  witii   14  Maps   and  22  : 
Twelfth  Edhian,    Hm.  .        ^  6 

THE  RHIKE  mou  Hottekdam  to  OonstancEj    wi 

Maps  auri  20  PJaiift-    FQurtaeaUi  Eiiiliuu.    1900.  7 

NOKTHEKN    GERMANY,    with    35  Maps    and    5ti  ] 

Twelfth  KdititJTi.     liiyT.  S 

SOUTHEBN    GERMANY,   witb    16  Maps    and    15  3 

Eighth  J£(Uaon.    18B5,  5  ' 

AUSTRIA,   with   3U  Maps   and  36  Plana.     Ninth   EJ 

lyOU,  8: 

THE  EA&TEKN  ALPS,  with  47  Mapa,  10  Plaus,  and  7  3 

pajna^K    Ninth  EdiLiiin.     IBUU-  10  i 

NORTHERN  FRANCE,  with  lU  Jlaps  and  114  Plana- 

Edition.     ia09.  7  ! 

SOUTH-E/VSTEl-USr  FRANCE,  with  15  Maps,  14  Planf 

a  Panoirama,     Third  Edition.    iae&.  5  i 

SOUTH-WESTERN  FKANCEj  with  lu  Maps  and  13  1 

Bucoi}ii  K  ditto  II .    imi.  5  t 

GREECE,  with  b  Maps  and  15  Plana.  SoeondBditiati,  1694.  ai 

NORTHERN  ITALY,  including  Legmokn,  FLOltENGK, 

VE:NiA,  with  25  Matui  iknd  35  PJahs.  Elevnntb  Edition.  1^99.  b  I 

CENTRAL  ITALY  aj{i>  ROME,  with  1 1  Mapa,  4ti  Plana* 

a  FaTtorama  of  Eome.    Thirtt^tnLh  Edkiun.    19UU.        7  luajrlifl 

SOUTHERN  ITALY,  SICILY,  etc.,  with  2h  Mapa  and  ly  J 

Tljirte^uth  Editiuu.    l^UO.  ^  1 

NORWAY,  SWEDEN,  aud    DENMARK,   with    32  I 

21  Flaa^,  aud  't^  Faaorajua^,     SevcnLli  Edltiuc.     1893'  10  I 

PARIS  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS,  with  Rquteb  mom  Lokd< 

PAiUB.  With  12  Mai»»  and  ^  Flaiifi.  FtmrietiEiih  EditioQ.  iSUX  €  I 

SPAIN  AKD  PORTUGAL,  with  6  Mapa  und  4*i  Pkna. 

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Eightu^^nni  Kditiub.  UMi,  i  I 

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HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 

BY 

KARL  BAEDEKER 


WITH  12  MAPS  AND  36  PLANS 
FOURTEENTH    REVISED    EDITION 


LEIPSIC:  KARL  BAEDEKEU,  YTi^ASS^^ 

1900 


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The  **Fari8  Ezhibition  of  1900  is  the  fifth  of  the  international 
exhibitions  instituted  by  the  French  GoTemment  at  fairly  regular 
intervals  in  the  last  half-centnry ,  and  it  promises  to  form  no  ex- 
ception to  the  steadily  increasing  success  that  has  attended  the  skill 
and  energy  of  their  promoters.  The  first  exhibition  took  place  in 
1865  in  the  old  Palais  de  Tlndustrie  in  the  Champs  ElysScs  (p.  155) ; 
the  second  followed  in  1867,  on  the  Champ  de  Mars  (p.  2iB2);  the 
third  ri878)  occupied  both  the  Champ  de  Mars  and  the  Trocad€ro 
(p.  169);  the  fourth  (1889)  was  extended  so  as  to  include  the  quays 
on  the  left  bank  and  the  Esplanade  des  Jnvalidet  (p.  273).  The 
present  exhibition  is  the  largest  of  aU ,  including ,  in  addition  to 
the  area  occupied  by  its  predecessor ,  also  the  quays  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Seine  and  that  part  of  the  Champs  Elys^es  on  which 
once  stood  the  Palais  de  Pindustrie  and  now  stand  the  two  Palais 
des  Beaux- Arts  (p.  156).  There  is  also  an  annex  in  the  Bois  de  Vin- 
eennes  (p.  304).  The  area  of  the  Exhibition  amounts  to  about  270 
acres.  —  The  General  Commissioner  for  the  Exhibition  is  Af.  Al- 
fred  Picardt  who  is  assisted  by  M.  Louis  Delaunay-BeUeville  and 
Af .  Siiphane  DermlU  as  General  Directors.  The  British  Commissioner 
is  Colonel  Jekyll,  the  U.  S.  Commissioner  Mr,  Ferdinand  Peck, 

#  Approaohes  to  the  Exhibition. 

1.  Railway.  Special  trains,  plying  in  connection  with  the 
Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceintare  (comp.  Appx.,  p.  34),  run  every  5  min- 
utes from  Courcelles-Ceinture  (PI.  B,  11)  to  station  Avenue  Henri 
Martin  (PI.  R,  6),  where  they  diverge  from  the  Ceinture  line,  run 
towards  the  S.E.  to  the  Seine,  cross  the  He  des  Cygnes  (p.  172) 
to  the  left  bank  and  the  Oare  du  Champ-de-Mars ,  and  proceed 
through  a  tunnel  to  the  Oare  des  Invalides  (comp.  Plan  R,  7,  8,  11, 
14,  and  also  the  special  plan  of  the  Exhibition). 

2.  Mbtropolitan  Railway  (comp.  p.  33  of  the  Appx.;  to  be 
opened  in  July,  1900).  The  Exhibition  trains  diverge  at  the  Place  de 
VEtoiU  (PI.  B,  12)  and  reach  their  terminus  at  the  Trocadero  (PI.  R, 
9,  8,  and  Exhibition  Plan). 

3.  The  RiVBB  Stbambrs  (p.  35  of  the  Appx.)  call  at  several  piers 
within  the  Exhibition  Grounds,  all  duly  marked  on  our  Plans,  and 
form  the  pleasantest  approach  to  the  Exhibition. 

4.  Omnibusbs  B,C,  Chi*^  B,  i2M*,  7,  T&w,  AC,  AC^i^,  AD,  AF, 
AH,  AHhii^  AL,  ^  AQ,  and  Tramways  TJ,  TL,  TAf,  TP,  TPbis^ 
TAB,  TAG,  ^  TAJ.  Comp.  pp.  24-82  of  the  Appendix. 

AdmiMion  to  the  Exhibition. 
The  Ehtbancbs  (36  in  all)  are  marked.  "B  oiv  ^iTJci  liioSXiVasi^ 
Plan.  The  most  important  ^re  the  EntrU  Monumentole  Vft.VXifc^\^^ 


de  la  Concorde  (p.  84),  crowned  by  a  colossal  statue  of  Paris  in 
modern  costume,  by  Moreau - Vauthier ;  the  Entrie  des  Champa- 
ElysSes,  near  the  two  Palais  des  Beaux- Arts  (p.  166) ;  and  the  Entr6e 
de  V Avenue  du  Trocadiro  (p.  166). 

The  TiOKBTS  OF  Admission  are  not  sold  at  the  entrances  but  are 
procured  from  street- dealers,  near  the  gates,  at  the  kiosques  of  the 
Credit  Lyonnais,  or  at  the  tobacco-shops.  The  nominal  price  of  the 
tickets  is  1  fr.,  but  it  fluctuates  with  the  rate  of  exchange  and  was 
60  c.  only  in  May  1900.  Between  8  and  10  a.m.  and  after  6  p.m. 
two  tickets  are  exacted  for  admission. 

The  extra-charges  for  admission  to  various  private  shows  within  the 
Exhibition  range  from  60  c.  to  5  fr.  (see  p.  3). 

Transportation  within  the  Ezhibitioxi. 

Visitors  may  pass  from  one  part  of  the  Exhibition  .Grounds  to 
another  either  by  Elbctmo  Tbamway  {^Chemin  de  Fer  Eleetriquei 
fare  25  c),  or  by  the  Moving  Platpobm  {Flaieforme  Mobile  or 
Roulanie;  fare  60  c),  which  is  also  worked  by  electricity.  Both  of 
these  follow  the  line  marked  on  our  Exhibition  Plan,  which  begins 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  Esplanade  des  Invalides ,  runs  sdong  the  Seine 
Quay,  behind  the  Pavilions  des  Puissances  ]^tiangeres,  to  the  Champ 
de  Mars,  skirts  the  E.  side  of  the  Champ  de  Mars,  and  returns  to 
the  Esplanade  des  Invalides.  , 

BestanrantB  and  Gaf^  within  the  Exhibition. 
The  places  of  refreshment  in  the  Exhibition  Grounds  are  very 
numerous.  They  are  divided  into  three  classes:  ReatauranU  de  luxe, 
with  charges  similar  to  those  of  the  high-class  restaurants  mentioned 
at  p.  14;  Restaurants  b,  prix  moyensy  generally  managed  on  the 
'prix-flxe'  basis  (see  p.  16);  and  Restaurants  populaires  (Etablisse- 
ments  de  Bouillon  and  the  like;  comp.  p.  15). 

Exhibits. 
The  exhibits  have  been  divided  into  28  Groups,  each  containing 
a  number  of  separate  Classes.  The  numbering  of  the  groups  has  no 
reference  to  their  geographical  position.  The  Musees  ritrospeetifs 
or  centennaux,  of  which  there  is  one  in  each  section,  afford  an  inter- 
esting survey  of  the  development  of  the  various  industries  in  the 
19th  century. 

1.  Bight  Bank  of  the  Seine,  from  East  to  West. 

Next  the  entrances  from  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  and  the  Champs 

Elys^es  rise  the  two  Palais  des  Beanx-Arts  {Grand  Palais  and  Petit 

Palais;  p.  156),  which  contain  the  exhibition  of  fine  arts,  comprising 

paintings,  sculptures,  engravings,  lithographs,  architectural  designs, 

and  fin  the  Petit  Palais)  objects  of  industrial  art.     The  foreign 

paintings  and  sculptureB  are  to  be  found,  in  t\ift  ^.  ^\u^  of  the 


i 


Grand  Palais,  the  French  paintings  and  sonlptures  in  the  S.  wing; 
while  in  the  W.  annex  is  the  Mns^e  Oentennal,  illustrating  French 
art  during  the  past  centnry.  —  From  the  Avenne  Nicolas,  between 
these  two  palaces,  there  is  a  magnificent  vista  across  the  Pont  Alex- 
andre m.  towards  the  exhibition-buildings  on  the  Esplanade  des 
Invalides,  with  the  Dome  des  Inyalides  in  the  distance. 

On  the  Quai  de  la  Conference  (p.  164),  below  the  Pont  des 
Invalides  (p.  165),  there  follow  in  succession  the  Pavilion  dt  la 
Ville  de  Paris,  containing  drawings  and  models  of  municipal  under- 
takings and  works  of  all  kinds,  both  present  and  past ;  the  charm- 
ing Horticultural  Section  (Group  VIII:  Horticulture  et  Arbori- 
culture')] the  Palais  de  la  Danse  (1-5  fr.);  and  the  large  Palais  de 
VEeonomie  Soeiale  et  des  Congrhs  (Group  XVI:  Benevolent  Institu- 
tions for  the  Working  Glasses).  Behind  are  various  smaller  private 
exhibitions :  the  Maison  du  Rire  (continuous  performances  in  the 
afternoon  and  evening;  adm.  2fr.),  the  Tableaux  Vivants,  the  Chat 
Noir,  the  Roulotte  (1-3  fr.),  the  Grand  Guignol  (50  c.-l  fr.),  the 
Bonshommes  OuiUaume  (3  fr.),  and  other  shows  in  the  style  of  those 
mentioned  at  p.  36  of  the  Handbook. 

On  the  right  bank,  below  the  Pont  de  TAlma,  we  next  reach  the 
picturesque  Old  Paris  (p.  165;  adm.  on  Mon.,  Tues.,  Wed.,  Thurs,, 
or  Sat.  1  fr.,  Frid.  2  fr..  Sun.  50  o. ;  after  6  or  7  p.m.,  double  prices). 

Farther  to  the  W.,  in  the  grounds  of  the  Trocad^ro,  lies  the 
Colonial  Section.  The  £.  portion,  devoted  to  the  colonies  of  foreign 
nations,  includes  the  exhibitions  from  Asiatic  Russia  (Siberian 
Railway),  China,  Japan,  and  the  Transvaal ;  the  W.  portion  Is  re- 
served for  French  colonies  and  protectorates.  The  Madagascar  sec- 
tion lies  behind  the  Palais  du  Trocadero  (p.  169).  —  To  the  S.W. 
this  section  is  adjoined  by  a  number  of  reconstructions  of  Moorish- 
Andalusian  Buildings  in  Seville,  Granada,  etc.  (adm.  1  fr.,  per- 
formances 2  fr.). 

2.  Left  Bank  of  the  Seine,  from  East  to  West. 

Crossing  the  quay  immediately  to  the  S.  of  the  Pont  Alexandre  II J. 
(p.  165),  we  enter  the  Esplanade  des  Invalides  (p.  273),  reaching 
first  the  garden  laid  out  above  the  Gare  des  Invalides,  in  which  in- 
numerable varieties  of  roses  are  to  be  kept  in  bloom  throughout  the 
summer. 

The  exhibition  -  buildings  on  the  Esplanade  accommodate 
Group  XII  (Decoration  et  Mobilier  des  Edifices  Publics  et  des  Habi- 
tations), and  Group  XV  (Industries  Diverses). 

The  Buildings  on  the  E.  Side  are  devoted  to  French  industrial 
arts.    Those  in  front  (next  the  garden)  contain  mural  decot;\.t\wv^ 
in  glazed  terracotta,  wood,  marble,  bionie,  aiv^  \xqt\.  (Dicoto.W.o'u 
/tee;.  — -  In  the  W.  jportion  of  the  br cadet  \)n.\\9Aii^^  ?kX^  -vtKV-V^^^- 
iJigB  MDd  carpets  CTapisseries)^  including  som©  is;i%;gn3^vifeTiX.^^>^^^^^^'*' 


tapestry  (p.  268) ;  Ughting^Apparatus  tof  the  employment  of  oil  or 
gas  (AppareiU  d^Eelairage  non  ^  iUetrique)  f  fnmiture  (MeubUs); 
bronzes,  artistic  iron-work,  etc.  (Bronzes,  Fonte  et  FerrormerU  <tart^ 
Mitaux  repousses)  f  the  Music  Centennal  de  la  Decoration  ct  du 
Mobilier;  gold  and  silver  plate  (Orfhvrericjj  jewellery  (JoaiUerie  ct 
BijoutericJ,  and  cutlery  (CoutcUerieJ,  In  the  E.  portion  of  this 
section,  to  which  we  retrace  our  steps,  are  characteristic  build- 
ings from  different  French  provinces,  vU,  (from  S.  to  N.)  Qascony, 
PoitoUj  Aries,  Provence,  Brittany,  asd  Lorraine.  On  the  first  floor 
are  the  exhibitions  of  Gobelins  (continued),  glass-painting,  toys, 
paper-industries,  India-rubber  articles,  and  clocks. 

Buildings  on  thb  W.  Side  of  the  Esplanade  des  Invalldes. 
Those  in  front  (next  the  garden)  are  devoted  to  the  Ceramic  Depart- 
ment of  French  industrial  art  (S^res,  Limoges).  —  The  broader 
buildings  contain  the  foreign  exhibitions  of  industrial  art :  to  the 
left  (E.)  Switxerland,  to  the  right  Japan;  theft,  occupying  the 
whole  width  of  the  buildings,  Austria^Hungary,  Denmark,  Italy, 
Great  Britain,  United  States  of  America,  Germany,  Bussia,  and  Bel- 
gium. On  the  first  floor  of  these  buildings  are  additional  specimens 
of  S&vres  ware,  continuations  of  the  Austrian,  British,  German, 
and  Russian  exhibitions,  and  the  exhibitions  of  Norway,  Spain, 
and  Sweden, 

Along  the  Quay  to  the  W.  of  the  Pont  d6s  Invalldes  extends 
the  Rub  des  Nations,  containing  representative  buildings  firom  the 
chief  foreign  countries  (Pavilions  des  Puissances  ttranglres).  Fifteen 
of  these  face  the  Seine,  eight  others  are  on  the  S.  side  of  the  street. 
Italy  (PL  1)  comes  first,  with  one  of  the  largest  of  these  palaces,  a 
domed  building  in  the  style  of  St.  Mark's  at  Venice,  embellished 
with  mosaics.  Then,  to  the  right,  follow  in  order :  Turkey  (PI.  2) ; 
the  United  States  (PL  3),  with  an  equestrian  statue  of  George  Wash- 
ington on  the  side  next  the  river ;  Austria  (PL  6),  in  the  baroque 
style  of  the  Hofburg  at  Vienna ;  Bosnia  and  the  Herzegovina  (PI.  7) ; 
and  Hungary  (PL  9).  On  the  S.  side  of  the  Rue  des  Nations  are 
Denmark  (PL  4),  Portugal  (PI.  6),  and  Peru  (PL  8).  Farther  on  is 
an  open  space,  at  the  corners  of  which  are  the  buildings  of  Great 
Britain  (PI.  10;  N.E.),  in  the  Tudor  style;  Belgium  (PI.  12;  N.W.), 
a  reproduction  of  the  H6tel  de  Ville  of  Oudenaerde;  Persia  (PI.  11 ; 
S.E.);  a,nd  Luxembourg  (PL  i3',  S.W.).  Next  come  JVonray  (PL  14), 
to  the  right,  Finland  (PL  16),  to  the  left,  and  Germany  (PI.  15),  to 
the  right,  a  palace  in  the  German  Renaissance  style,  with  a  tower 
245  ft.  high.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  Spain  (PI.  17),  reproducing 
parts  of  several  different  Spanish  buildings;  to  the  left  nie Bulgaria 
(PL  18)  and  Roumama  (PI.  21).  Then  Monaco  (PL  19),  Sweden 
(PL  20),  Greece  (PL  22),  and  Servia  (PL  23),  all  to  the  right. 

To  the  rightf  beyond  the  Pont  de  I'Alma,  is  the  large  Mexican 
Suildinff  (PI,  24).    This  is  adjoined  b^  the  Vont^  Poiais  des  Armies 


dp  Terre  et  de  Mer,  containing  the  naval  and  military  exhibits 
(Group  XVIII).  Farther  along  the  Seine  are  the  exhibition  of  the 
Creusot  Iron  WorkSj  the  palace  of  the  Mercantile  Marine  (Navigation 
de  Commerce)^  and  the  Forestry  Building  (Group  IX ;  For^Uy  Cfccwae, 
Ptche), 

We  now  turn  into  the  Champ  de  Mars,  where  we  begin  with 
the  group  surrounding  the  Eiffel  Tower  (p.  282)«  To  the  £.  is  the 
large  Palais  du  Tour  du  Monde  (adm.  1  fr.  60  c.),  with  a  tower  150  ft. 
high  and  a  panorama  of  all  the  countries  reached  by  the  steamers 
of  the  Messageries  Maritimes  (Greece,  Turkey,  Egypt,  India,  China, 
Japan,  Australia,  and  Spain).  Adjoining  are  the  Pavilion  of  the 
French  Alpine  Club  (1  fr.);  the  Palais  Lumineux  Ponsin  (50  c,  in 
the  evening  1  fr.),  a  light  and  airy  strncture  entirely  of  glass,  117  ft. 
in  height  and  183  ft.  in  circumference ;  and  the  large  Palais  du 
Costume  (1  fr. ;  Frid.  5  fr.),  containing  an  extensive  collection  of 
women's  costumes  of  all  periods.  To  the  W.,  beginning  next  the 
Seine,  are  the  Palais  de  la  Femme,  with  reading  and  refreshment 
rooms;  the  CixUorama.{i  fr.),  with  panorama  representing  a  voyage 
in  a  balloon ;  the  Mariorama^  with  a  panorama  of  a  voyage  in  the 
Mediterranean;  Venice  in  Paris  (adm.  1  fr.,  evening  2  fr.,  during 
festivals  3-5  fr. ;  gondola  50  c);  the  large  Palais  de  VOptique  (1  fr. 
60  c),  containing  a  gigantic  telescope,  186  ft.  in  length  and  6  ft. 
in  diameter ;  and  finally  the  huge  Olohe  CUtste.  —  There  are  num- 
erous other  objects  of  interest  in  this  vicinity. 

The  buildings  on  the  Champ  de  Mara,  with  the  gardens  in  the 
centre  and  in  the  background  the  Ch&teau  d'Eau,  a  series  of  cas- 
cades illuminated  by  electricity  at  night,  present  a  highly  imposing 
spectacle,  well  seen  from  the  Pont  dU^na  through  the  arches  of  the 
Eiffel  Tower  or  from  the  first  stage  of  the  tower. 

On  the  E.  Side  are  the  buildings  devoted  to  Group  XI:  Mines 
and  Metallurgy;  Group  XIII:  Spinning,  Weaving,  and  Clothing 
(Fils,  Tissusy  VHements);  and  Group  IV:  Micanique  (machinery). 

In  the  transverse  building  behind  is  Group  V:  Electricity,  The 
centre  of  this  building  is  occupied  by  the  Salle  des  Fites^  being  the 
somewhat  altered  Galerie  des  Machines  of  the  Exhibition  of  1889 
(p.  283).  At  the  sides  are  Groups  VII  and  X:  Agriculture  et  AU^ 
meniSy  consisting  of  agricultural  produce  and  food-stuffs ,  of  both 
French  and  foreign  origin.  Group  Vn,  to  the  E.  of  the  Salle  des 
FStes,  includes  the  tasteful  rococo  pavilion  of  the  champagne 
manufacturers. 

In  the  buildings  on  the  W.  Sins,  beginning  next  the  electricity 
exhibition,  are  the  following.   Group  XIV:  Ctimicdl  Industries^  i.e. 
the  manufacture  of  paper,  tobacco,  and  matches,  tannln^^  ^X.'^.v 
Group  VI :  Q€nie  civil  et  Moyens  de  ^Transport,  \Wxi&\.x^V^%  cw^  «^"- 
flneering,  means  of  transpoitj  carriage-bmldms^  aM\AiTiicJ^S\«^^^^^ 
ways,  etc.;  Group  I:  Education  et  Enscigncfrteat ;  mv^  ^xovi:^"OX- 


I 


If' 

Lettres,  Sciences,  et  Arts,  illustrating  the  production  of 
and  music.  Most  of  these  exhibitions  extend  into  the 
their  respective  buildings. 

To  the  S.W.,  outside  the  limits  of  the  Exhibitior 
ViUage  (1  fr.")  and  the  Russian  Oiant  Wheel  (Grande  1 
in  diameter  (adm.  1  fr. ;  ascent  1-2  fr.). 

The  Anneze  de  VineenneB,  a  department  of  the  : 
the  Bois  de  Vincennes,  near  the  Lac  Daumesnll  (p.  3 
workmen's  dwellings,  agricultural  machines,  railway  ms 
automobiles,  and  other  exhibits  connected  with  sport, 
of  International  Sports  will  be  held  in  this  annex  dui 
mer.  These  will  include  cricket,  football,  base-ball,  go 
matches ;  foot-races,  cycle  and  automobile  races,  hors" 
nasties,  rowing,  etc. 


»lo 


PREFACE. 


[eg  The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  for  Paris,  which  is  now 
a-  issued  for  the  fourteenth  time,  and  corresponds  with  the 
lis  j  fourteenth  French  edition,  is  to  render  the  traveller  as  nearly 
m-  as  possible  independent  of  the  services  of  guides,  commission- 
naires,  and  innkeepers,  and  to  enable  him  to  employ  his  time 
and  his  money  to  the  best  advantage. 

Objects  of  general  interest,  described  by  the  Editor  from 
his  personal  observation,  are  those  with  which  the  Handbook 
principally  deals.  A  detailed  account  of  all  the  specialties  of 
Paris  would  of  course  far  exceed  the  limits  of  a  work  of  this 
character. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  upon  which  the  utmost  care  has 
been  bestowed,  will,  it  is  hoped,  be  found  serviceable.  Those 
which  relate  to  Paris  itself  (one  clue-map,  one  large  plan, 
five  special  plans  of  the  most  important  quarters  of  the  city, 
.and  one  omnibus-plan) have  been  collected  in  a  separate  cover 
at  the  end  of  the  volume,  and  may  if  desired  be  seven  d  from 
the  Handbook  altogether.  The  subdivision  of  the  Plan  of  the 
city  into  three  sections  distinguished  by  diflferent  Ci  lours 
will  be  found  materially  to  facilitate  reference,  as  it  ob- 
viates the  necessity  of  unfolding  a  large  sheet  of  paper  at 
'each  consultation. 

There  is  probably  no  city  in  the  world  which  ever 
Underwent  such  gigantic  transformations  in  its  external  ap- 
pearance as  the  French  metropolis  during  the  reign  of  Na- 
poleon III.,  and  few  cities  have  ever  experienced  so  appal- 
lling  a  series  of  disasters  as  those  which  befel  Paris  in  1870-71. 
'Many  squalid  purlieus,  teeming  with  poverty  and  vice, 
I  were  swept  away  under  the  imperial  regime,  to  make  room 
(for  spacious  squares,  noble  avenues,  and  palatial  edifices. 
iThe  magnificent  metamorphosis  of  Paris  'from  brick  to 
imarble'  was  nearly  complete  when  the  gay,  splendour- 
jloving,  pleasure-seeking  city  was  overtaken  by  tne  signal 
Icalamities  occasioned  by  the  Franco-Prussian  war  and  the 
[Communard  rebellion.  During  that  period  the  city  sustained 
many  irreparable  losses,  but  since  t£e  ift^toi^VKoviQi'^^'Wt.'^K 
has  in  most  respects  resumed  itB  iotmet  ^^^^^x^'Wi.^ ,  *^^^ 


vi  PREFACE. 

government  having  done  its  utmost  to  restore  everything  as 
far  as  possible  to  its  former  condition. 

A  short  account  of  the  rontes  from  London  to  Paris,  and 
of  the  principal  towns  of  Northern  France,  with  their  magni- 
ficent Gothic  churches,  will  be  acceptable  to  most  travellers. 

In  the  Handbook  are  enumerated  both  the  first-class 
hotels  and  those  of  humbler  pretension.  The  latter  may  often 
be  selected  by  the  'voyageur  en  gar^on'  with  little  sacrifice 
of  real  comfort,  and  considerable  saving  of  expenditure. 
Those  which  the  Editor  has  reason  to  believe  most  worthy 
of  commendation  are  denoted  by  asterisks;  but  doubtless 
there  are  many  of  equal  excellence  amon^  those  not  so  distin- 
guished. It  should,  however,  be  borne  m  mind  that  hotels 
are  liable  to  constant  changes,  and  that  the  treatment  expe- 
rienced by  the  traveller  often  depends  on  circumstances 
which  can  neither  be  foreseen  nor  controlled. 

The  Editor  begs  to  tender  his  gratefal  acknowledgments 
to  travellers  who  have  sent  him  information  for  the  benefit  of 
the  Handbook,  and  hopes  that  they  will  continue  to  favour 
him  with  such  communications,  especially  when  the  result 
of  their  own  experience.  Hotel-bills,  with  annotations  showing 
the  traveller's  opinion  as  to  his  treatment  and  accommodation, 
are  particularly  useful. 

To  hotel-proprietors,  tradesmen,  and  others  the  Editor 
begs  to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  dealing  and  courtesy 
towards  travellers  forms  the  sole  passport  to  his  commen- 
dations, and  that  advertisements  of  every  kind  are  strictly 
excluded  from  his  Handbooks.  Hotel-keepers  are  also  warned 
against  persons  representing  themselves  as  agents  for  Bae- 
deker's Handbooks. 


Abbreviations. 
M.  as  Engl,  mile;  hr.  '&=  hour;  mln.  =  minute;  r.  =  right; 
1.  =  left;  N.  =  north,  northwards,  northern;  S.  =  south,  etc. ; 
E.  =  east,  etc. ;  W.  ==  west,  etc. ;  R.  =  room,  route ;  B.  =  break- 
fast; d^j.  =s  dejeuner,  luncheon;  D.  =  dinner;  A.  =  attendance; 
L.  ==  light;  rfmts.  =  refreshments ;  pens.  =  pension  (i.e.  hoard  and 
lodging);  ca.  =  circa,  ahout;  carr.  =  carriage;  fr.  «=  franc;  c.  = 
centime.  The  letter  d  after  a  name,  with  a  date,  indicates  the  year 
of  the  person's  death. 

Asterisks 

are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 


CONTENTS. 


Introdnction. 

I.  Language.    Money.    Expenses.    Season.    Passports. 

Gnstom  House xll 

II.  Railways xiii 

Cycling xiv 

ni.  Outline  of  History xv 

a.  History  of  France xv 

b.  History  of  Paris xxi 

TV.  General  Remarks  on  Paris xxvi 

V.  Weights  and  Measures xxxl 

VI.  Bibliography xxxii 

VII.  Remarks  on  Northern  France xxxiii 

Sketch  of  French  Art,  by  Dr.  Waliher  Oenael     .    .    .  xxxv 

Preliminary  Information. 

1.  Arrival  in  Paris 1 

2.  Hotels,  Pensions,  and  Apartments 2 

3.  Restaurants 9 

4.  Gaf^s.  Brasseries.  Confectioners 17 

5.  Cabs 20 

6.  Omnibuses  anct  Tramways.    River  Steamboats 22 

7.  Railway  Stations.  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture  ....  24 

8.  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices 26 

9.  Theatres ,  Circuses,  Music  Halls,  Balls,  etc 29 

10.  Concerts,  Art  Exhibitions,  Sport,  and  Clubs 36 

11.  Shops  and  Bazaars 38 

12.  BookseUers.  Reading  Rooms.  Libraries.  Newspapers  .    .  45 

13.  Baths,  Physicians,  Maisons  de  Sant^ 47 

14.  Divine  Service 49 

15.  Embassies  and  Consulates.    Ministerial  Offices.   Banks  .  50 

16.  Preliminary  Drive 62 

17.  Distribution  of  Time.   Diary 53 

Jl^^^Q                      mght  Bank  of  the  Seine. 
1.  The  Palais-Royal,  Rue  de  Rivoli ,  Bastille,  and  Boule- 
vards   59 

L  The  Palais -Boyal  and  thence  to  the  Hotel  de  Ville.  — 
St.  Germain  •rAazerrois.    Tour  St.  Jacques.    Pl««.^  ^m. 

Chatelet.    St.  Merri "^^ 

II.  From  the  Hdtel  de  Vllle  to  the  BaatttVe.  —  «V..  Q^«^^^'  ^^ 

St.  P»nl  et  Si.  Louis.    Colonne  de  J^im^X  .,,.'..        ^:* 


vlli  CONTENTS. 

Bo  ute  PAg« 

III.  The  Boulevards  from  the  Bastille  to  the  Madeleine.  —  Place 
de  la  B^puhlique.  Porte  St.  Martin.  Porte  St.  Denis.  The 
Op^ra 72 

IV.  From  the  Madeleine  to  the  Palais-Boyal  yi&  the  Place  de 

la  Concorde.  ~  Golonne  Yenddme.    St.  Boch     ....  81 

2.  Palace  and  Galleries  of  the  Louvre.    The  Tuilerles  ...  86 

I.  The  Palace  of  the  Louvre 86 

II.  The  Galleries  of  the  Louvre 89 

Ancient  Sculptures 90 

Asiatic  Museum 99 

Egyptian  Museum lOL 

Mediaeval  and  Benaissance  Sculptures 103 

Modern  Sculptures 106 

Picture  Gallery 109 

Galerie  d'ApoUon 137 

Salle  des  Bijoux 140 

Collection  La  Caze 141 

Ancient  Bronzes 142 

Collection  of  Drawings 143 

Smaller  Mediaeval,  Benaissance,  and  Modern  Objects  144 

Antique  Pottery 148 

Mus^e  de  Marine 160 

Mus^e  Ethnographique 150 

Mus^e  Chinois 150 

Salle  des  Boites 151 

Mus^e  de  Chalcographie 151 

Collection  Grandidier 151 

III.  The  Tuileries 161 

Arc  de  Triomphe  du  Carrousel.     Jardin  des  Tuileries  151 

3.  Champs-EIys^es  and  Bols  de  Boulogne 155 

I.  From  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  to  the  Place  de  TEtoile.  155 

II.  From  the  Place  de  TEtoile  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  — 
Hippodrome  de  Longchamp.    Jardin  d'Acclimatation    .     .  160 

4.  The  Trocad^ro,  Passy,  and  Auteuil 163 

I.  From  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  to  the  Trocad^ro.    Mus^e 

de  Galli^ra.    Mus^e  Guimet.    Musses  du  Trocad^ro   .     .  163 

II.  Passy  and  Auteuil  (Bois  de  Boulogne) 170 

5.  Halles  Centrales,  Conservatoire  des  Arts  et  Metiers ,  and 
Pere-Lachalse 172 

I.  From  the  Palais-Boyal  to  the  Halles  Centrales.  —  St.  Eu- 

stache 172 

II.  From  the  Halles  Centrales  to  the  Conservatoire  des  Arts 

et  Metiers  and  the  Place  de  la  Bdpublique 175 

III.  From  the  Place  de  la  B^puhlique  to  Pfere-Lachaise     .     .  179 

6.  Neighbourhood    of  the  Exchange  and  Quartiers  de  la 
Chauss^e-d'Antin  and  de  VEurope 187 

I.  From  the  Palais-Boyal  to  the  Bourse.  —  Bibliotheque 

Rationale 187 

II.  From  the  Bourse  to  Kotre-Dame-de-Lorette ,    La  Trinity, 

and  the  Gare  St.  Lazare 194 

III.  From  the  Gare  St.  Lazare  to  St.  Augustin  and  the  Pare 

Monceaux.  —  Les  BatignoUes 197 

7.  La  Villette  and  Montmartre 200 

I.  From  the  Boulevards  to  La  Villette.  —  St.  Laurent.  Gare 
de  VEst     Gare  dn  Nord.    Buttes-Chaumont.     Market  and 

Abattoirs  at  La  Villette 200 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Eonte  Page 
II.  Montmartre.  —  St.  Vineent-de-Panl.    Batte  Montmartr«. 

Cemetery  of  Montmartre 203 

8.  The  Quartier  du  Temple  and  Quartier  du  Marais     ...  210 

Archives  et  Imprimerie  Rationales.    Mas^e  Camavalet. 

Place  des  Vosges 210 

The  CM  an^.  the  Left  Bank  of  the  Seine. 

9.  The  Cit^  and  the  Quartier  de  la  Sorbonne 219 

I.  Palais   de  Justice  and  Sainte-Chapelle.    Notre-Dame.  — 

Tribunal  de  Commerce.    Pont-Neuf.    Hotel-Dieu    ...  220 
II.  From  the  Cit^  to  the  Hns^e  de  Cluny.  —  Fontaine  St.  Mi- 
chel.   St.  S^verin.    Ecole  de  M^decine 228 

III.  From  the  Musde  de  Cluny  to  the  Pantheon.  —  Sorbonne. 
College  de  France.  Biblioth&que  Ste.  (^enevi^ve.    St.  £ti- 

enne^u-Hont 238 

10.  Quarters  of  St.  Germain  and  the  Luxembourg     ....  245 

I.  Institut.    Hdtel  des  Monnaies.    Ecole  des  Beaux-Arts  .    .  245 
n.  From  the  Ecole  des  Beaux-Arts  to  the  Luxembourg.  — 

St.  Germain-des-Er^s.    St.  Sulpice 262 

in.  Palace,  Gallery,  and  Garden  of  the  Luxembourg    ...  255 

11.  The  Jardin  des  Plantes  and  the  Gobelins 263 

I.  From  the  Louvre  to  the  Jardin  des  Plantes 263 

n.  Jardin  des  Plantes 264 

m.  From  the  Jardin  des  Plantes  to  the  Gobelins       ....  267 

12.  The  Invalides  and  the  Champ-de-Mars 270 

I.  From  the  Tuileries  to  the  Invalides.  —  Chambre  des  Dd- 

putds.    Ste.  Clotilde 271 

n.  Hdtel  des  Invalides.   —   Mus^e  d'Artillerie.    Eglise  des 

Invalides.    Tomb  of  Xapoleon  1 273 

III.  The  Champ-de-Hars.  —  Eiflfel  Tower.    Galerie  des  Ma- 
chines.   Ecole  Militaire 282 

13.  The  Southern  Quarters 284 

t.  From  the  Luxembourg  to  the  Observatoire  and  the  Cem- 
etery of  Montparnasse 284 

II.  From    the    Carrefour    de    TObservatoire    to    the   Pare 

Montsouris 288 

Environs  of  Paris. 

14.  St.  Cloud,  S&vres,  and  Meudon 291 

I.  From  Paris  to  St.  Cloud 291 

n.  From  Paris  to  Sevres 296 

III.  From  Paris  to  Meudon 298 

15.  Yincennes  and  its  Environs 299 

L  From  Paris  to  Vincennes  direct 299 

II.  From  Paris  to  Vincennes  via  Charenton 301 

m.  Vincennes 303 

16.  Versailles 307 

I.  From  Paris  to  Versailles 307 

n.  Versailles 308 

17.  St.  Germain-en-Laye "^"Ife 

I.  From  Paris  to  St.  Germain  by  TaUwa^ ^^ 

II.  From  Paris  to  8t,  Germain  by  steam-tr&m^M    •          -  ^^ 

HI.  8t  Oermain-enLaye .     .     .     •                    .     .     ,     .  •        '^^ 


X  CONTENTS. 

Route  Pap. 

18.  St.  Denis,  Enghien,  and  Montmorency .  333 

I.  From  Paris  to  St.  Denis S33 

n.  From  St.  Denis  to  Enghien  and  Kontmorency    ....  339 

III.  From  Enghien  to  Paris  via  Argenteuil 341 

19.  The  Valley  of  the  OlBe 342 

I.  From  Paris  to  Pontoise 342 

1.  Via  St  Denis  or  Argenteuil  and  Ermont  ....  342 

2.  ViH  Argenteuil  and  Conflans-9te-Honorine     .    .    .  343 
8.  Via  Maisons-Laffltte  and  Achates 343 

II.  From  Pontoise  to  Beaumont 345 

III.  From  Beaumont  to  Paris 847 

1.  Vi&  Montsoult  —  From  Montsoult  to  Luzarches    .  347 

2.  Via  Valmondois  and  Ermont.  —  Abbaye  du  Val  348 

20.  Sceanx,  Chevreuse,  Montlh^ry,  etc 349 

I.  From  Paris  to  Sceaux 349 

U.  From  Paris  to  the  Valley  of  Ghevreuse.  Valley  of  the 
Bi^vre.  Limours.  —  From  Massy-Palaiseau  to  Versailles  \ 

to  Valenton;  and  to  Juvisy 352 

III.  From  Paris  to  .Montlhdry.    Arpajon 355 

21.  From  Paris  to  Fontainebleau * .    .    .  869 

22.  Chantilly  and  its  Environs 368 

I.  From  Paris  to  Chantilly 868 

II.  From  Chantilly  to  Paris  via  Creil  and  Beaumont .     .    .  376 

in.  From  Chantilly  to  Paris  via  Senlis  and  Cr^py-en-Valois  377 


Eontes  from  London  to  Paris. 

23.  By  Folkestone,  Boulogne,  and  Amiens 381 

24.  By  Dover,  Calais,  and  Amiens 387 

25.  By  Newhaven,  Dieppe,  and  Rouen 388 

26.  By  Southampton,  Havre,  and  Rouen 396 

List  of  Artists 399 

Index 408 


List  of  Maps  and  Plans. 

A.  Haps. 

1.  Railway  Map  of  France,  at  the  end  of  the  book. 

2.  Bois  de  Boulogne,  p.  160. 

3.  Immediate  Environs  of  Paris,  p.  290. 

4.  Asni&res,  RueU,  and  Bougival,  p.  292. 

5.  St.  Cloud  and  S&vres,  p.  294. 

6.  Forest  of  Meudon,  p.  298. 

7.  Vlncennes  and  its  Environs,  p.  303. 

8.  Environs  of  St.  Geimain-en-Laye,  p.  332. 

9.  St.  Denis  and  Pontoise,  p.  334. 
jfO.  Bemoter  EnYirons  of  Paris,  p.  342. 

//.  Forest  of  FonUinehlem,  p.  366. 
^2.    Forest  of  Cbantniy,  v  ^'^^' 


CONTENTS. 

B.  Flans. 

1.  Key-Plan  of  Paris. 

2.  Plan  of  Pails  in  three  sections. 

3.  Special  Plan  of  Arc  de  TEtoile  and  Ohamp-de-Mars  District. 

4.  „  „     „  Champs -Elys^es,  Western  Boulevards,  and 

Louvre. 
6.        „  „     „  Eastern  Boulevards. 

6.  „  „     tj  H6tel  des  Invalides  and  Palais  du  Luxem- 

bourg District. 

7.  „  „     „  Cit^,  Place  de  la  Bastille,  and  Jardln  des 

Plantes. 

8.  Omnibus  and  Tramway  Plan  of  Paris. 

9.  Historical  Plan  of  the  Louvre  and  Tuileries,  p.  88. 
10,  11,  12.  Galleries  of  the  Louvre,  pp.  90,  108,  160. 

13.  Conservatoire  des  Arts  et  Metiers,  p.  176. 

14.  P^re-Lachaise,  p.  180. 

16.  Biblioth^que  Nationale,  p.  188. 

16.  Cemetery  of  Montmartre,  p.  207. 

17,  18.  Musle  Carnavalet,  pp.  214,  215. 

19.  Palais  de  Justice,  p.  220. 

20.  Mus^e  de  Cluny,  p.  230. 

21.  Ecole  des  Beaux-Arts,  p.  248. 

22.  Mus^e  du  Luxembourg,  p.  267. 

23.  Jardin  des  Plantes,  p.  264. 

24.  H6tel  des  Invalides,  p.  274. 

26.  Town  and  Park  of  Versailles,  p.  308. 

26.  Chateau  de  Versailles,  p.  310. 

27.  St  Germain-en-Laye,  p.  330. 

28.  Fontainebleau,  p.  366.         ' 

29.  Chateau  of  Chantilly,  p.  370. 

30.  Park  of  Chantilly,  p.  375. 

31.  Boulogne,  p.  380. 

32.  Amiens,  p.  384. 

33.  Calais,  p.  386. 

34.  Dieppe,  p.  389. 
36.  Rouen,  p.  390. 
36.  Le  Havre,  p.  396. 


INTRODUCTION. 


I.    Language.  Money,  Expenses.  Season.  Passports. 
Cnstom  Honse. 

LANOtJAGB.  For  those  who  wish  to  derive  instruction  as  well 
as  pleasure  from  a  visit  to  Paris,  the  most  attractive  treasury  of 
art  and  industry  in  the  world,  some  acquaintance  with  French  is 
indispensable.  The  metropolis  of  France,  it  is  true,  possesses  Eng- 
lish hotels,  English  professional  men,  English  Walets  de  place*, 
and  English  shops ;  but  the  visitor  who  is  dependent  upon  these  is 
necessarily  deprived  of  many  opportunities  of  becoming  acquainted 
vvith  the  most  interesting  characteristics  of  the  place. 

Money.  The  decimal  Monetary  System  of  France  is  extremely 
convenient  in  keeping  accounts.  The  Banque  de  France  issues 
Banhnotes  of  5000,  1000,  500,  200,  100,  and  50  francs,  and 
these  are  the  only  banknotes  current  in  France.  The  French 
Gold  coins  are  of  the  value  of  100,  40,  20,  10,  and  5  francs ; 
Silver  coins  of  5,  2,  1,  72>  ^.nd  1/5  franc;  Bronze  of  10,  5,  2,  and 
1  centime  (100  centimes  =  1  franc).  ^Sou*  is  the  old  name,  still 
in  common  use,  for  5  centimes ;  thus,  a  5-franc  piece  is  sometimes 
called  *une  pi^ce  de  cent  sous',  2  fr.  ess  40  sous ,  1  fr.  =  20  sous, 
1/2  fr.  =  10  sous.  Italian,  Belgian,  Swiss,  and  Greek  gold  coins  are 
also  received  at  their  full  value,  and  the  new  Austrian  gold  pieces 
of  4  and  8  florins  are  worth  exactly  10  and  20  fr.  respectively. 
Belgian,  Swiss,  and  Greek  silver  coins  (except  Swiss  coins  with  the 
seated  figure  of  Helvetia)  are  also  current  at  full  value ;  but  Italian 
silver  coins,  with  the  exception  of  5-lira  pieces,  should  be  refused. 
The  stranger  should  also  be  on  his  guard  against  counterfeit  silver 
coins,  and  should  refuse  obsolete  coins  such  as  those  with  heads  of 
Louis  Philippe  or  of  Napoleon  without  the  laurel  wreath.  The  only 
foreign  copper  coins  current  in  France  are  those  of  Italy,  but  others 
are  frequently  accepted  without  demur. 

English  banknotes,  gold,  and  even  silver  are  generally  received 
at  the  full  value,  except  at  the  shops  of  the  money-changers, 
where  a  trifling  deduction  is  made.  The  table  at  the  beginning  of 
the  book  shows  the  comparative  value  of  the  French,  English,  Amer- 
ican, and  German  currencies,  when  at  par.  The  currency  of  Belgium, 
Switzerland,  Italy,  and  Greece  is  the  same  as  that  of  France. 

The  traveller  should  always  be  provided  with  small  change 
(petite  monnaie) ,  as  otherwise  he  may  be  put  to  inconvenience  In 
giving  gratuities,  purchasing  catalogues,  etc. 

ExpENSBS.    The  cost  of  a  visit  to  Paris   depends  of  course 

oa  the  tastes  and  Jbabits  of  the  traveller.   If  he  selects  a  hotel  of  a 

^/S"^  class,  dinea  at  the  table  d'h6te,  visits  l\ie  t\3Le^\.T^^,  to^w  in 


I.  SEASON,  etc.  xiii 

the  parks  and  enyiions,  and  finally  indulges  in  suppers  d,  la  carte  ^ 
he  must  be  prepared  to  spend  30-40  fr  a  day  or  upwards.  Those, 
however,  who  visit  Paris  for  the  sake  of  its  monuments,  its  galleries, 
its  collections,  and  not  for  its  pleasures,  will  have  little  difficulty, 
with  the  aid  of  the  information  in  the  Handbook,  in  limiting  their 
expenditure  to  15-20  fr.  a  day. 

Sbason.  Spring  and  autumn  are  the  best  seasons  for  a  visit  to 
Paris,  the  former  perhaps  deserving  the  preference  as  having  fewer 
rainy  days.  The  long  days  of  summer  are  in  some  respects  admir- 
ably adapted  for  sight-seeing ;  but  the  heat  is  often  excessive,  and 
the  absence  after  June  of  a  large  proportion  of  the  ordinary  resi- 
dents deprives  the  city  of  one  of  its  most  characteristic  features. 

Passfobts  are  now  dispensed  with  in  France,  but  they  are  often 
useful  in  proving  the  traveller's  identity,  procuring  admission  to 
museums  on  days  when  they  are  not  open  to  the  public,  obtaining 
delivery  of  registered  letters,  etc. 

Foreign  Office  passports  may  be  obtained  through  G.  Smith  and  Sons, 
68  Charing  Cross;  Bnss,  440  West  Strand;  E.  Stanford,  26  Cockspur  St., 
Charing  Cross ;  or  W.  J.  Adams,  59  Fleet  St.  (charge  2s.;  agent  s  fee  1«.  6d.). 

GvsToic  HousB.  In  order  to  prevent  the  risk  of  unpleasant  de- 
tention at  the  *douane*  or  custom-house ,  travellers  are  strongly  re- 
commended to  avoid  carrying  with  them  any  articles  that  are  not 
absolutely  necessary.  Cigars,  tobacco,  and  matches  are  chiefly  sought 
for  by  the  custom-house  officers.  The  duty  on  cigars  amounts  to 
about  13«.,  on  tobacco  to  6-1  Os.  per  lb.  Articles  liable  to  duty 
should  always  be  'declared\  Books  and  newspapers  occasionally 
give  rise  to  suspicion  and  may  in  certain  cases  be  confiscated.  — 
The  octroi  is  a  duty  on  comestibles  levied  at  the  entrance  of  Paris 
and  other  large  towns,  but  travellers'  luggage  is  usually  passed  on 
a  simple  declaration  that  it  contains  none. 

n.  Eailways.^ 

The  fares  per  English  mile  are  approximately:  1st  cl.  18  c, 
2nd  cl.  12  c.,  3rd  cl.  8  c.,  to  which  a  tax  of  ten  per  cent  on  each 
ticket  costing  more  than  10  fr.  is  added.  Return  -  tickets  (Billets 
d'cUler  et  retour)  are  issued  by  all  the  railway-companies  at  a  reduc- 
tion of  20-25  per  cent;  those  issued  on  Sat.  and  the  eves  of  great 
festivals  are  available  for  three  days.  On  some  of  the  suburban  lines, 

t    Railway -station,   la  gare  (also  Vembareadhre)\  booking-office,   U 
guichet  or  bureau;  first,  second,  or  third  class  ticket,  un  billet  de  premiire^ 
de  teeonde,  de  troitihne  classe;  to  take  a  ticket,  prendre  un  billet;  to 
register  the  luggage , /aire  enregistrer  let  fra^o^res;  luggage-ticket,  bulletin 
de  bagage ;  waiting-room,  salle  d*attente ;  refreshment-room,  le  buffet  (third 
class,  la  buvette)',  cloak-room,  la  consigne;  platform,  le  quai^  le  irottoiv\ 
carriage,  le  wagon;  compartment,  le  compartiment^  le  coupi;  ^xtvCkYVi^^ ^^^s^- 
partment, /iMnet<r«;  ladies' compartment,  dames  seuUs;  ^uvbt^.^  conducXeur  \ 
porter, /0«toMr/  to  enter  the  carriage,  monter  en  toogon;   tsCfe^^  i^xvt  %^%.V.^^ 
Mpffd/tffa/  to  slight,  deseendre;  to  change  carriageB,  changev  de  «?^V*'*IV^ 
cxpeeM  tnu'B  to  Cmlais,  h  (rain  express  pour  Calais,  l*expve«s  dt  CaVa^*- 


xiv  n.  RAILWAYS. 

however,  there  is  no  redaction  on  return-tickets.  Tickets  are  usu- 
ally collected  at  the  *sortie\  The  mail  trains  (Hraina  rapidei'j 
generally  convey  flrst-class  passengers  only ,  and  the  express  trains 
(^trains  express'),  first-class  and  second-class  only.  The  carriages 
are  inferior  to  those  in  most  other  parts  of  Europe.  The  trains  are 
not  always  provided  with  smoking  carriages,  but  in  the  others 
smoking  is  allowed  unless  any  one  of  the  passengers  objects. 

Before  starting,  travellers  are  generally  cooped  up  in  the  close 
and  dusty  waiting-rooms,  and  are  not  admitted  to  the  platform  until 
the  train  is  ready  to  receive  them ;  nor  is  any  one  admitted  to  the 
platform  to  take  leave  of  friends  without  a  platform- ticket  (10  o.) 
which  may  be  obtained  from  the  ticket-checker  or  in  some  cases 
(c.^.  at  the  Gare  de  Lyon)  from  an  automatic  machine. 

Travellers  within  France  are  allowed  30  kilogrammes  (66  EngL 
lbs.)  of  luggage  free  of  charge;  those  who  are  bound  for  foreign 
countries  are  allowed  25  kilogr.  only  (55  lbs.) ;  10  c.  is  charged 
for  booking.  At  most  of  the  railway-stations  there  is  a  consigne, 
or  left-luggage  office,  where  a  charge  of  10  c.  per  day  is  made  for 
one  or  two  packages,  and  5  c.  per  day  for  each  additional  artieie. 
Where  there  is  no  eonsigne,  the  employees  will  generally  take  care 
of  luggage  for  a  trifling  fee.  The  railway-porters  (facUurs)  are  not 
entitled  to  remuneration,  but  it  is  usual  to  give  a  few  sous  for  their 
services.  The  occasionally  extortionate  demands  of  the  Parisian 
porters  should  be  firmly  resisted.  —  Dog  Tickets  cost  30  c.  for  20  kilo- 
m5tres  (121/2  M.)  or  less,  and  5  c.  for  each  additional  3  kilometres 
(13/4  M.),  with  10  c.  for  ^registration'. 

Railway  Restaurants  (usually  dear  and  often  poor)  are  found  at  the 
principal  stations,  but  the  stoppages  of  the  trains  are  usually  so  short 
that  travellers  are  advised  to  carry  the  necessary  provisions  with  them. 

Sleeping  Carriages  (Wagons -Ms)  and  Butaurani  Carriages  (Wttgons^ 
restaurants)  are  run  in  the  chief  night  and  day  expresses  respectively. 
D^j-  3Vs-5,  D.  4V2-Tfr.  (wine  extra),  according  to  the  line;  2nd  cl.  on  cer- 
tain lines  in  Normandy,  d^j.  21/4,  D.  SVs  ft-  —  PiUotos  and  CoverUU  may 
be  hired  at  the  chief  stations  (1  fr.). 

The  most  trustworthy  information  as  to  the  departure  of  trains 
is  contained  in  the  Indicaieur  des  Chemins  de  Fer,  published  weekly 
(85  c),  or  in  the  Indieatewr  Paul  Dupont  (75  c).  There  are  also 
separate  and  less  bulky  time-tables  for  the  different  lines  (^Livrets 
Chaix'J:  du  Nord,  de  TEst,  de  TOuest,  etc.  (40  c);  and  the  Uvret 
Chaix  des  Environs  de  Paris  (25  c),  sold  also  in  separate  parts  at  10  c* 

Railway  time  is  always  that  of  Paris,  but  the  clocks  in  the  in- 
terior oi  the  stations,  by  which  the  trains  start,  are  purposely  kept 
five  min.  slow.  Belgian  (Greenwich  or  West  Europe)  railway  time 
is  4  min.  behind,  and  ^Mld  Europe'  time  (for  Germany,  Switzerland, 
and  Italy)  56  min.  in  advance  of  French  railway  time. 


Cycling  is  a  popular  amusement  in  ^ranoA,  and  the  cyelisrs  waatf  are 
everywhere  fairly  well  provided  for.  The  b\0«o«.da  \Mi\.^fe«n 'CwVa  %wi 
tue   coast  are  good,   though  often  destitute  ot  a\i«bd^.    Oic\V*\»  «tt\«Ai»% 


III.  fflSTORY.  XV 

France  with  their  machines  mast  deposit  a  sum  equal  to  the  duty  on  the 
latter  (22  fr.  per  10  kilogrammes  or  22  Ihs.),  whieh  is  returned  to  them 
on  quitting  tne  country.  Members  of  the  CpclUt**  Tourinff  Qub  (47  Vic- 
toria St.,  London,  8.W.)  or  of  the  Touring  Club  de  France  (10  Place  de  la 
Bourse,  Paris)  are,  however,  spared  this  formality  on  presentation  of  their 
card  of  membership. 

An  annual  tax  of  6  fr.  is  imposed  on  every  cycle  in  France,  but 
strangers  remaining  in  the  country  not  more  than  three  months  receive 
a  dispensation  from  this  tax  (^permis  de  circulation^)  on  application  at  the 
office  of|  the  enstom-house  by  which  they  arrive  (60  c).  Every  cycle  in 
France  must  be  furnished  with  a  lamp  (to  be'  lighted  at  dusk)  and  a  bell 
or  horn  (audible  at  a  distance  of  50  metres). 

Cyclists  will  find  it  advantageous  to  join  the  Touring  Club  de  France 
(see  above),  the  annual  subscription  to  which  is  6  fr.  (5s.),  including  a  copy 
of  the  monthly  Oaeette.  The  club  publishes  an  Annuaire  (1  fr.),  with  a 
list  of  cyclists^  hotels,  repairers,  representatives,  etc.,  and  also  a  series  of 
Itineraries  (5  c.  each).  —  Cycling  in  Paris,  see  p.  38. 

m.   Outline  of  History. 

a.  History  of  France. 

Merovingians.  Cloyis,  son  of  Ghilderic,  King  of  Tournai, 
finally  expelled  the  Romans  abont  the  year  496,  embraced  Christi- 
anity, and  became  the  founder  of  the  Merovingian  Dynasty,  which 
was  so  named  from  Meroveus  or  Merwig^  grandfather  of  Glovis. 

Carlovingians.  Pepin  (Le  BrefJ,  who  became  King  of  France 
In  752 ,  was  the  founder  of  the  second  or  Carlovingian  Dynasty. 

Ghaslbmaone,  768. 

Louis  I.  (Le  Dibonnaire)^  814. 

Charles  II.  (Le  Chauve),  840.  France  separated  from  Germany 
and  Italy  by  the  Treaty  of  Verdun,  843.  —  The  subsequent  monarch s 
were  unable  to  defend  their  country  against  hostile  attacks.  The 
dynasty  was  deposed  in  consequence,  and  the  crown  given  in  887 
to  Count  Odd,  or  Eudes,  who  had  been  instrumental  in  repelling 
the  Normans. 

Capetians.  Hugh  Capet,  grand-nephew  of  Eudes,  was  the 
founder  of  the  third  or  Capetian  Dynasty  (987). 

RoBEBT  II.  (Le  Pieux),  996. 

Hbnbi  I.,  1031. 

Philip  I.,  1060.  WiMJam,  Duke  of  Normandy^  conquers  Eng- 
land, 1066.     First  Crusade  under  Godfrey  de  Bouillon,  1096. 

Louis  VI.  (Le  OrosJ,  1108.    8uger  (p.  334),  the  king's  minister. 

Louis  VII .  (Le  Jeune),  1137,  takes  part  in  the  Second  Crusade 
(1147).  His  divorced  wife,  Eleanor  of  Guienne  and  Poitou,  marries 
Henry  Plantagenet,  afterwards  Henry  H.  of  England. 

Philip  H.  (Auguste),  1180,  undertakes  the  Third  Crusade,  in 
company  with  Richard  Coeur^de^Lion ,  1189.  On  his  return  he 
attacks  the  English  possessions  in  France,  and  defeats  the  English, 
Flemish,  and  German  troops  at  Bouvines  in  1214. 

Louis  Vin.  (Le  LionJ,  1223,  extends  the  io^a\^Qr«etSxv^^^. 
of  TTBuee. 

Louis  JX.   r^St.  Louis) ,    1226.     Ctusadea  to  ^g^^^  ^^^'^^^'^'^^ 


xvi  III.  HISTORY. 

Philip  111.  (Le  HardiJ,  1270,  acquires  Provence  by  inheritauce. 

Philip  IV.  (Le  Bel),  1285,  convokes  the  Etata-OifUraux  for 
the  first  time.  He  causes  the  papal  residence  to  be  transferred 
to  Avignon,  and  in  1307  abolishes  the  order  of  Knights  Templar. 

Louis  X.  (Le  Hutin),  1314. 

Philip  V.  (Le  Long),  1316. 

Chablbs  IV.  (LeBelJ,  1322,  dies  without  Issue. 

House  of  Valois.  Philip  VI.,  1328.  War  with  England,  1337 
('Guerre  de  Cent  Ans',  1337-1453).  Battle  of  Crfcy,  1346. 

John  (Le  Bon),  1350;  defeated  and  taken  prisoner  by  the 
English  at  Poitiers,  1356.     Peace  of  Brltigny,  1360. 

Chables  V.  (LeSage),  1364.  The  English  expelled  by  Bertrand 
du  Chtesclin. 

Ghabxes  VI.,  1380;  becomes  insane  twelve  years  afterwards. 
The  French  under  the  Constable  d^Albret  defeated  by  Henry  V.  of 
England  at  Agincourt,  1415.    Paris  occupied  by  the  English,  1421. 

Ghables  VII.,  1422.  The  siege  of  Orleans  raised  by  Joan  of 
Arc,  1429.   Goronation  at  Rheims.   Joan  burned  at  Rouen,  1431. 

Louis  XI.,  1461,  after  suppressing  the  Ligtie  du  Bien  PubUc, 
which  had  been  formed  in  consequence  of  his  hasty  and  wide-reach- 
iug  reforms,  succeeds  in  establishing  the  administrative  and  terri- 
torial unity  of  the  country.  Burgundy,  Franche-Comt^,  Artois,  and 
Provence  are  added  to  the  French  crown. 

Chables  VIU.,  1483,  acquires  Brittany  by  his  marriage  -with 
Aline  de  Bretagne.    Conquest  of  Naples,  1495. 

Louis  Xn. ,  ^Le  phre  du  peuple\  1498,  first  king  of  the 
younger  branch  of  the  House  of  Valois ,  conqueror  of  Milan  and  (in 
alliance  with  the  Spaniards)  of  Naples.  Having  quarrelled  with  his 
Spanish  allies,  he  is  defeated  by  them  on  the  Oarigliano  in  1503. 
The  League  of  Cambrai  is  formed  for  the  purpose  of  expelling  the 
Venetians  from  the  mainland  of  Italy.  The  Venetians  defeated  at 
Aynadello,  1509;  but  they  succeed  in  destroying  the  League,  and 
defeat  the  French  at  Ravenna,  1512. 

Fbancis  I.,  1515,  defeats  the  Swiss  at  Marignano,  and  recov- 
ers the  Duchy  of  Milan.  Four  wars  with  Charles  V.  for  the 
possession  of  Burgundy  and  Milan.  Francis  defeated  and  taken 
prisoner  at  Pavia,  1525.    The  royal  power  becomes  more  absolute. 

Henbi  II.,  1547,  husband  of  Catherine  de  Midicis,  accidentally 
killed  at  a  tournament  (p.  68).  Metz,  Toul,  and  Verdun  annexed 
to  France,  1556.   Final  expulsion  of  the  English. 

Fbancis  H.,  1559,  husband  of  Mary  Stuart  of  Scotland. 

Chables  IX.,  brother  of  Francis  II.,  1560.  Regency  of  Cathe^ 
rine  de  Midicis,  the  king's  mother.  Beginning  of  the  Religious 
Wars.  Louis  de  Cond^,  Antoine  de  Navarre,  and  Admiral  Go- 
ligny,  leaders  of  the  Huguenots;  Francis  de  Guise  and  Charles 
de  Lorraine  command  the  Roman  Catholic  army.  Massacre  of 
S/.  Bartholomew,  24th  August,  1572. 


III.  fflSTOBY.  xvll 

Hbnbi  III.)  1674)  brother  of  his  two  predecessors;  flies  from 
Paris,  where  a  rebellion  had  broken  ont,  by  the  advice  of  hjs 
mother^  Catherine  de  Mtfdicis  (d.  1588);  assassinated  at  St.  Cloud 
by  Jacques  Clement)  a  Dominican  Mar. 

House  of  Bourbon.  Henbi  IY.  ,  1 589)  first  monarch  of  the  House  of 
Bourborhy  defeats  the  Roman  Catholic  League  at  Arques  in  1589,  and 
at  Ivry  in  1590,  becomes  a  Roman  Catholic  in  1593,  captures  Paris  in 
1594.  8uUy^  his  minister.  Religious  toleration  granted  by  the  Edict 
of  Nantes  (1598).  Henri)  divorced  from  Margaret  of  Yalois  in  1599, 
marries  Marie  de  M^dicis  the  following  year ;  assassinated  by  Ra- 
vaillac  in  1610.   Paris  greatly  embellished  during  this  reign. 

Louis  Xm.)  1610;  his  mother  Marie  de  M^diciS)  regent;  she 
is  banished  to  Cologne,  where  she  dies  in  1642.  BiehelieUt  his 
minister  (d.  1642).  EngUsh  fleet  defeated  at  Biy  1627;  La  Bo- 
eheUe  taken  from  the  Huguenots.  France  takes  part  in  iJie  Thirty 
Years*  War  against  Austria. 

Louis  XIV.  ,  1643 ,  under  the  regency  of  his  mother,  Anne 
of  Austria,  Ministers:  Mazarin  (d.  1661),  Louvois  (d.  1691),  and 
Colbert  (d.  1683).  Generals:  Turenne  (d.  1675),  Cond^  (d.  1686)) 
Luxembourg  (d.  1695). 

War  of  the  Fronde  against  the  court  and  Mazarin.  Condtf 
(Due  d'Enghien)  defeats  the  Spaniards  at  Boeroy  in  1643,  and  at 
Lens  in  Holland  in  1648.  Turenne  defeats  the  Bavarians  at  Freiburg 
and  at  NordUngen,  1644.  The  Peace  of  Westphalia  (1648)  assigns 
AUare  to  France,  with  the  exception  of  Strassburg  and  Montb^liard. 
Submission  of  the  Fronde.  Peace  of  the  Pyrenees,  with  Spain,  1659. 
Death  of  Mazarin,  1661.  The  king  governs  alone. 
Louis  marries  Maria  Theresay  daughter  of  Philip  IY.  of  Spain, 
1660.  After  the  death  of  his  father-in-law  Louis  lays  claim  to  the 
Spanish  Netherlands.  Turenne  conquers  Hainault  and  part  of  Flan- 
ders, 1667.  Cond^  occupies  the  Franehe  ComU.  Peace  of  Aix-la- 
ChapellO)  in  consequence  of  the  Triple  AlliancO)  1668. 

War  with  Holland,  Passage  of  the  Rhine,  1672.  Occupation 
of  the  provinces  of  Utrecht  and  Guelderland.  Yictories  of  Turenne 
■over  the  Imperial  army  at  Sinzheim,  Ensisheimy  MuUiausen  (1674), 
and  Turkheim  (1675).     Death  of  Turenne  at  Sassbach,  1675. 

Admiral  Duquesne  defeats  the  Dutch  fleet  near  Syracuse^  1676. 
Marshal  Luxembourg  defeats  William  of  Orange  at  Monteassel,  1677. 
Peace  of  iVj/mirc^en,  1678.  Strassburg  occupied,  1681.  Occupation 
of  Luxembourg.  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  1685.  Devas-' 
tation  of  the  Palatinate ,  1688.  Marshal  Luxembourg  defeats  the 
-Imperial  troops  at  Fleurus  (1690^  and  SUenkerke  (1692),  and  Wil- 
liam of  Orange  at  Neerwinden^  1693.  The  French  fleet  under  Ad- 
miral TouTville  defeated  by  the  English  at  La  Hogue^  1692.  P^«.^^ 
of  Syswycky  1697. 

Spanish  war  of  BnccessioUy  1 701 .  Ylctory  ol  T^ii^^mft  *X  Y\\\.ot\a 
^i702),  sad  of  Talhurd  at  Speyer  (1702).    Taking  ol  LandaM.,  S.^^^* 
Bamdxkeb.  PariB.  Uth  Edit.  \i 


xviii  in.  HISTORY. 

Victory  at  HochttSdt  (1703);  defeat  at  Hbehatadt,  oi  Blenheim 
(1704),  by  the  Duke  of  Marlborough  and  Prince  Eugene  of  SaToy. 
Marshal  Yillars  defeated  by  Prince  Eugene  at  Turin  (1705),  and 
by  Marlborough  and  the  Prince  at  RamiUUa  (1709).  Oudenarde 
(1708),  and  Malplaquet  (1709).  Peace  of  Utrecht,  1713.  Peaoe  of 
Roitadt,  1714. 

During  this  reign  French  literature  attains  its  zenith:  Cor- 
neille,  Racine,  Molidre,  La  Fontaine,  Boileau,  Bossuet,  F^nelon, 
Descartes,  Pascal,  La  Bruy^re,  Mme.  de  S^vigntf,  etc 

Louis  XV.,  1715 ;  eight  years*  regency  of  the  Duke  of  Orleana. 
Marries  Marie  Lesezintka  of  Poland  (1725).  Austrian  war  of  snc- 
cession  (1741-48).  Defeat  at  Dettingen  by  George  II.  of  England 
(1743).  Defeat  of  the  Dutch  and  English  atFontenoy  ri745),  of  the 
Austrians  under  Charles  of  Lorraine  at  Boeoux  (174o),  and  of  the 
Allies  near  Laeffelt  (Lawfeld)  in  1747.  Taking  of  MaoBirUM  and 
Peace  of  Aix-la-Chapelley  1748.  Naval  war  against  England. 

Seven  years'  war  with  England  (1756  63).  Duke  ofCumbedand 
defeated  by  Marshal  d'Estr^es,  1757.  The  French  under  Prince  de 
Soubise  defeated  the  same  year  by  Frederick  the  Great  at  Romm^ 
bach,  and  in  1758  at  Crefeld,  by  the  Duke  of  Brunswick.  The 
French  defeated  at  Minden  (1759).  The  French  defeated  by  Marshal 
Broglie  At  Bergen,  1760.  —  French  possessions  in  N.  America  sur- 
rendered at  the  Peace  of  PofiSj  1763.  —  Acquisition  of  Lorraine 
(1766)  and  Corsica  (1768).  —  Voltaire,  Rousseau,  and  Diderot  the 
most  influential  writers. 

Louis  XVI.,  1774,  married  to  Marie  Antoinette  y  daughter  of 
Francis  I.  and  Maria  Theresa.  American  War  of  Independence 
against  England,  1777-83.  Exhaustion  of  the  finances  of  France ; 
Vergennes,  Turgot,  Necker,  Calonne,  Brienne,  and  Necker  (a 
second  time),  ministers  of  finance. 

1789.  Rbyolution.  Assembly  of  the  States  General  at  Ver- 
sailles, 5th  May.  Their  transformation  into  a  National  Asaemblyj 
17th  June.  Oath  of  the  Jeu  de  Paume  (p.  325),  20th  June. 
Storming  of  the  Bastille,  14th  July.  The  ^Femmes  de  la  Halle'  at 
Versailles,  5th  Oct.  Confiscation  of  ecclesiastical  property,  2nd  Nov. 

1790.  Fete  de  la  F^d^ration  in  the  Champ-de-Mars  (p.  282). 

1791.  The  Emigration.  The  royal  family  escapes  from  Paris,  but 
is  intercepted  at  Varennes,  22nd  June.  Oath  to  observe  the  Con- 
stitution, 14th  Sept.    AaaembUe  Ligislative, 

1792.  War  with  Austria,  20th  April.  Storming  of  the  Tuileries, 
10th  Aug.  The  king  arrested,  11th  Aug.  Massacres  in  Sept. 
Cannonade  of  Valmy  against  the  Prussians,  20th  Sept.  The  iVo- 
tional  Convention  opened,  and  royalty  abolished,  21st  Sept. 

Tint  Bepublio  proclaimed,  25th  Sept.  Custine  enters  Mayenee, 
21  St  Oct.  Battle  of  Jemappea  against  the  Austrians,  6th  Nov.  Con- 
Quest  of  Belgium. 

1793,  Louis  XVI.  beheaded,  2iat  3aii.  Uerg^iVAvi^Ati xi^ckontog 


III.  mSTOBY.  xix 

of  time  introduGed,  2!^d  Sept.i.  Beign  of  Terror.  The  queen 
beheaded,  16th  Oct.  Worship  of  Reason  introdaoed ,  10th  Nov. 
Loss  of  Belgium. 

1794.  Robespierre's  fall  and  exeeation,  27th  July.  Jonrdan's 
victory  at  FUunUj  16th  June.     Belgium  reconquered. 

1795.  Conquest  of  Holland  by  Pichegru.  Bonaparte  commander 
of  the  troops  of  the  Convention  against  the  Royalists,  ith  Oct. 
(13th  Vend^miaire).   Dibbctoby  established,  27th  Oct. 

1796.  Bonaparte's  successes  in  Italy  (Montenotte,  MiUe$imo, 
Lodi,  MUany  Mantua^  Caaiiglionef  BaasanOy  and  Areola). 

1797.  Victory  at  Bivoliy  14th  Jan.  Taking  of  ilfan«ua,  2nd 
Feb.  The  Austrians  commanded  by  Archduke  Charles,  at  first 
victorious,  are  defeated  by  Bonaparte.  Peace  of  Campo  Formio, 
17ih  Oct.   Change  in  the  Directory  on  18th  Fructidor  (4th  Sept.). 

1798.  Bonaparte  in  Egypt.  Victory  of  the  Pyramidi,  21st  July. 
Defeated  by  Nelson  at  the  battle  of  the  Nile ,  1st  Aug. 

1799.  Bonaparte  invades  Syria.  Acre  attacked.  Victory  of 
Aboukir,  25th  July.  FaU  of  the  Directory,  9th  Nov.  Establishment 
of  the  CoNSULATB,  24th  Dec.    Bonaparte  First  Consul. 

1800.  Bonaparte's  passage  of  the  St.  Bernard,  13-16th  May. 
Victories  at  Ptocensa,  MontebeUOj  Marengo^  and  Hohenlinden.  At- 
tempt to  assassinate  Napoleon  at  Paris,  23rd  Dec. 

1801.  Peace  of  LunSvilU  with  Germany,  9th  Feb. 

1802.  Peace  of  Amien»  with  England,  27th  March.  Bona- 
parte (with  Cambac^rds  and  Lebrun)  elected  Consul  for  life. 

Tint  Empire.  1804.  Napoleon  I.  proclaimed  Emperor  by  the 
Senate,  18th  May;  crowned  by  Pope  Pius  VH.,  2nd  Dec. 

1805.  Renewal  of  war  with  Austria.  Capitulation  of  Ulm^  17th 
Oct.  Defeat  of  Trafalgar,  2ist  Oct  Battle  of  Austerlittj  2nd  Dec. 
Peace  of  Preashurgj  26th  Dec. 

1806.  Establishment  of  the  Rhenish  Confederation,  12th  July. 
War  with  Prussia.  Battles  of  Jena  and  AueratSdt,  14th  Oct.  Entry 
into  Berlin,  27th  Oct.     Continental  blockade. 

1807.  War  with  Russia  and  Prussia.  Battles  of  Eylau  and  Fried- 
land.    Treaty  of  TiUit,  8th  July.    Occupation  of  Lkbon,  30th  Nov. 


t  The  year  had  12  months :    Venddmiaire  (month    of  the  vendange^ 
or  vintage)  firom  22nd  Sept.  to  2l8t  Oct.,  Brumaire  (brurm^  fog)  22nd  Oct. 
to  20th  Nov.,  and  Frimaire  (frimas^  hoar>fro8t)  2l8t  Nov.  to  20th  Dec.,  were 
the  three  autnmn-months ;  —  Nivdae  {neige^  •now)2l8tDec  to  19th  Jan., 
Plnvidse  ipluU^  rain)  20th  Jan.  to  18th  Feb.,  and  Ventose  (««n<,  wind) 
19th  Feb.  to    20th  March,   winter -months-,  —  Germinal  {gertM,  germ), 
21at  Kareh  to  19th  AprU,  Flortfal  (/fetir,  flowex)  20th  April  to  l9th  May, 
and  Prairial  (prairie^  meadow)  20th  May  to  18th  June*  spring-months )  -> 
Messidor  (motuon,  harvest)  19th  June  to  18th  July,  Thermidor  (tktrme^ 
warmth)  i9th  July  to  17th  Aug.,  and  Fmctidor  (fruity  fruit)  19th  A.uv  \a 
16tb  Sept.,  summer  months.  —  Each  month  had  80  dvya^  and.  toikaVaXM^  ^^. 
8  deeades,  weeks  being  abolished.    At  the   close  ot  ikie  7ea.T  \\k«t^  N««t«. 
5  Jown  eompUmsntaires ,  i7th  to  21st  Sept.   —  The  xeyxibUfiasi  c»\e^^^ 
WM  difconiittued  by  a  decree  of  9th  Sept.,  1806. 


xxii  ni.  mSTOEY. 

ihii  epoch,  of  whioh  almost  the  only  hnilding  now  left  is  the  ehurch 
of  8U  Oermain-iea-PrSa. 

The  latter  half  of  the  9th  and  the  10th  cent,  were  times  of 
calamity  (p.  xy),  but  under  the  Capetian  Dynasty  the  trade  of 
Paris  began  to  reyive.  The  city  attained  considerable  prosperity 
under  Louis  VI.,  Le  Qros  (1108-37),  while  the  names  of  Peter  Lom- 
bard and  Abelard  conferred  fame  upon  it  as  a  school  of  learning.  — 
The  reign  of  Louis  YII.  (1137-80)  witnessed  the  establishment  of 
the  order  of  Knights  Templar  at  Paris  and  the  foondation  of  NotrC'- 
Dame, 

With  Philip  H.  (1180-1223)  a  new  era  dawned  for  Paris.  This 
monarch  erected  aqueducts,  fountains,  markets,  etc.,  paved  tiie 
principal  streets,  organized  police,  continued  Notre-Dame,  built  a 
ch&teau  on  the  site  of  the  Louvre^  and  constructed  the  third  zone  of 
fortifications  round  the  expanding  city.  The  schools  of  Paris  were 
henceforth  known  as  a  Ur^iversity  and  the  trading  corporation  of  the 
Parisitm  Hanta  was  organized. 

Under  Louis  IX.  or  8t.  Louis  (1226-70),  who  built  the  Sainte- 
ChapelU^  Paris  obtained  various  municipal  privileges;  and  the  Sor-- 
horme  was  founded  by  Robert  Sorbon,  the  king's  chaplain.  The 
great  annual  fair  which  took  place  in  the  extensive  plain  between 
Paris  and  St.  Denis  (Foire  du  Landit)  and  the  famous  Commercial 
Code  drawn  up  by  Etienne  Boileau  in  1268  afford  proof  of  the  early 
commercial  importance  of  Paris.  The  population  was  then  about 
120,000. 

Philip  IV.,  Le  Bel  (1285-1314),  founded  the  Parlement,  or  court 
of  justice  of  Paris,  and  convoked  th&Etats-OSnSrauxioT  the  first  time. 

During  the  captivity  of  John  (1850-64)  in  England  (p.  xvi) 
the  provost  Etienne  Marcel  put  himself  at  the  head  of  the  Parisians 
and  constructed  the  fourth  line  of  fortifications,  which  was  strength- 
ened by  the  addition  of  the  Bastille  by  Ghablbs  V.  (1364-80). 
Charles  also  extended  the  Louvre^  and  collected  a  Library,  which, 
however,  was  afterwards  dispersed. 

The  reign  of  Chablbs  VI.  (1380-1422)  was  disastrous  for  Paris. 
A  tax  upon  provisions  led  to  the  revolt  of  the  Maillotins,  followed 
by  the  forfeiture  of  municipal  privileges.  Heavy  contributions  were 
levied  upon  the  town  to  meet  the  senseless  expenditure  of  the  court, 
and  the  capital,  like  the  rest  of  France,  was  torn  by  the  factions  of 
the  Armagnacs  and  the  Burgundians.  The  cause  of  the  latter  was 
violently  espoused  by  the  Ccitochiens,  or  butchers  of  Paris,  who  mur- 
dered 10,000  citizens.  For  the  first  eighteen  years  of  the  reign  of 
Chablb«  VII.  (1422-61)  Paris  was  held  by  the  EngUsh.  Their 
expulsion  was  followed  by  a  plague,  of  which  50,000  persons  died 
(1437-38),  and  by  a  famine.  The  three  following  reigns,  however, 
afforded  the  city  time  to  recover,  that  of  Louis  XI.  (1461-83)  being 
marked  by  the  introduction  of  printing  and  the  erection  of  the  H6tel 
de  C/uny, 


m.  HISTORY.  xxiii 

Fbaxois  I.  (1615-47)  adorned  and  improved  Paris,  at  that  time 
a  city  of  800)000  inhaMtants.  He  began  the  present  palace  of  the 
Louvre^  the  H6tel  de  ViUe^  and  the  church  of  SU  Eustaeht;  and  col- 
lected a  Librnry  which  was  the  nucleus  of  the  Bibliothhque  N<UionaL 
The  persecution  of  the  Protestants  begun  by  Francis  I.  was  con- 
tinued under  his  successors,  and  culminated  in  the  sanguinary  Mat- 
iaere  of  8t,  Bartholomew  (Aug.  24th ,  1572)  under  Ghables  IX. 
(1560-74).  A  return  to  toleration  under  Hbnbi  III.  (1574-89)  in- 
stigated the  formation  of  the  Roman  Catholic  League.  After  the 
assassination  of  his  rival  the  Duke  of  Guise,  the  king  was  forced  to 
flee,  and  was  himself  assassinated  while  besieging  Paris. 

Hbnbi  IV>  (1589-1610),  having  abjured  Protestantism,  entered 
Paris  in  1594.  During  this  reign  the  metropolis  was  greatly  embel- 
lished. The  building  of  the  Sjouvre^  the  Tuileries,  and  the  Pont 
Neufvrere  continued,  the  H6tel  de  ViUew&B  completed,  and  the 
Place  Boyale,  the  modem  Place  des  Yosges,  was  built.  Under 
Louis  XIII.  (1610-43)  the  process  of  embellishment  was  continued. 
The  Luxembourg  J  the  Palais-Boyal,  the  churches  of  St,  Boe\  Val- 
de-'Oraee,  etc.,  were  built;  six  new  Quays  constructed;  and  the 
Jardm  des  Plantes  laid  out  8te,  Eustaehe  was  finished  with  the 
exemption  of  the  portal;  and  the  Boyal  Printing  Works  and  the 
Aeadimie  Fran^aise  were  founded. 

Though  at  the  beginning  of  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.  (1643 
•4715)  Paris  suffered  from  the  civil  war  of  the  Fronde,  and  though 
its  municipal  institutions  were  sacrificed  and  itself  abandoned  by  the 
court,  the  metropolis  continued  to  make  great  strides.  The  streets 
began  to  be  regularly  cleansed,  lighted,  and  watched.  Visitors  began 
to  crowd  into  the  capital  and  the  French  nobles  to  erect  town-man- 
sions or  *h6tels\  Paris  gradually  attracted  to  herself  the  skill  and 
talent  of  the  whole  country.  The  decorative  arts  in  particular  re- 
ceived a  great  impulse ,  and  began  to  extend  their  infiuence  over 
the  whole  of  Europe,  while,  as  we  have  said,  French  literature  now 
reached  its  zenith.  This  reign  saw  the  foundation  of  the  Hotel 
des  InvaUdes,  various  Libraries  and  Academies,  the  Observatory, 
the  Oobelins  Manufacture,  the  ComSdie  Fran^aise,  the  Opira,  etc. 
The  old  fortifications  were  levelled  and  the  Boulevards  converted 
into  promenades,  adorned  with  four  triumphal  arches,  of  which  the 
Porte  8L  Denis  and  the  Porte  8L  Martin  still  remain.  Similar 
promenades  were  begun  on  the  left  bank.  The  Colonnade  of  the 
Louwe,  the  Pont  Boyal,  several  Quays,  the  Place  Venddme,  Place 
des  Victoires,  Place  du  Carrousel,  the  Garden  of  the  Tuiteries,  the 
Champs^Elysies,  etc.,  all  date  from  this  reign.  The  population  of  the 
(ity  was  then  nearly  560,000. 

Under  Louis  XV.  (1715-74)  the  Ecole  Militaire.,  Gat4e-Mtu\A.t 

i Place  de  la  Concorde),  Panthion,  St.  Sulpice,   Pa\a\%  Bowbo-a 
Chamber  of  Deputies),  College  Mazatin  (lua^tult),  EcoU  de  ^^- 
dMn^,  etc.,  were  built,  and  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  \^\^  Q^^- 


xxlT  IJI.  HISTORY. 

The  tempest  wUch  bad  long  been  gatbeting  bnnt  tii  tbe  reign 
of  Louia  XVI.  (1774-93).  During  the  Bbtolvtiok  tbe  Uttory  of 
PariB  eannot  well  be  separated  from  the  history  of  France  (sea 
pp.  XTiii,  xix). 

The  frightfal  scenes  of  derastation  enacted  during  the  Berola- 
tion,  especially  in  1793,  were  at  least  beneficial  in  sweeping  away 
the  overgrown  conventual  establishments,  which  occupied  the  best 
sites  and  one-third  of  the  area  of  the  city.  From  this  period,  alec, 
date  many  of  the  great  institutions  of  Paris,  including  the  EcoU 
NormaU  and  Ecoie  Polytechniquej  the  Musiti  du  Louvre^  dArWlerU^ 
and  des  MonumenU  Fran^ais,  the  Contervatoire  des  ArU  et  MiUert. 
the  Archive$  Nationale$,  the  Jnstitut,  various  Libraries^  etc.  In  1797 
the  octroi  barrier,  a  sixth  line  of  wall  begun  by  Louis  XVI.,  was 
completed  on  the  site  of  the  old  exterior  boulevards;  and  in  1798 
the  first  industrial  exhibition  was  held. 

Under  Napoleon  I.  (1804-14),  who  aimed  at  making  Paris  the 
capital  of  Europe,  numerous  sumptuous  embellishments  were  added. 
This  emperor  erected  the  Arc  du  Cofroufel  and  the  Colonne  Ven- 
ddme,  continued  the  Louvre^  added  the  facade  of  the  H6teL  du  Oofp^^ 
LSgUlatif,  began  the  Are  de  lEtoilt^  the  Bowfe^  the  P(mt$  d'iitiafer- 
litt^  dtt  Arts^  dliruiy  and  de  la  CiU^  cleared  the  other  bridges  of  the 
houses  that  encumbered  them,  reared  twenty-six  public  Foufiiaini 
laid  out  sixty  new  StreeUy  etc. 

During  the  somewhat  inglorious  period  of  the  RbstobatiojI 
(1814-30),  the  city  enjoyed  a  golden  era  of  prosperity.  It  was 
then  that  liberal  politicians  achieved  their  greatest  triumphs,  that 
French  literature  and  art  used  their  utmost  endeavours  to  resume 
their  world-wide  sway,  and  that  French  society  exhibited  itself  in 
its  most  refined  and  amiable  aspect.  At  this  epoch  Benjamin  Con- 
stant and  Royer-CoUard  exercised  very  great  influence  on  public 
opinion ;  Thiers  and  Mignet^  Victor  Hugo  and  Lamartine  began  their 
respective  careers ;  the  'Romantic  School*  attained  high  importance ; 
and  Paris  became  the  recognised  headquarters  of  Oriental  studies 
and  a  number  of  other  important  sciences.  Civic  improvements  pro- 
gressed comparatively  slowly,  though  the  ChaptUe  ExpicUoire^  Notre^ 
Dame^de'Lorettey  8t,  Vincent-de-Paulj  and  the  Fonts  des  Inval>des^ 
de  VAreheolch6,  and  dArcole  date  from  this  period,  while  the  intro- 
duction of  gas-lamps,  omnibuses,  and  foot-pavements  also  took  place. 

Under  Louis  Philippe  (1830-48)  building  was  resumed  with 
fresh  vigour.  The  Madeleine  and  the  Arc  de  I'Etoile  were  finished; 
the  Obelisk  and  the  Colonne  de  Juillet  were  erected ;  the  Fonts  Louis 
Fhilippe  and  du  Carrousel  were  built;  and  the  Musie  de  Cluny  was 
opened.  The  first  railways  date  from  this  reign.  The  present  Forti- 
fications of  Paris  were  also  erected  at  this  period,  with  Iklached  Forts^ 
to  which  others  have  been  added  since  1870. 

Napolbon  III.  (1862-70).  During  the  Second  Empire  Paris 
wderwent  an  Almost  entire  transformation,  on  s^  %«»\&  q1t&%.^\- 


m:  HISTORY.  xxy 

floence  Mtherto  unpatnlleled.  Dense  masies  of  houses  and  num- 
bers of  tortnous  streets  were  replaced  l>y  broad  boulevards,  spaoions 
squares,  and  palatial  edifices.  Ste,  CloUlde,  8t,  AugusUn^  La  TriniUy 
8t,  Ambrone,  and  other  churches ;  part  of  the  Nouveau  Louvre ;  the 
Hdtel  Dieu;  the  Halles  Centrales;  the  Tribunal  de  Commerce;  the 
PonU  de  Solfirino^  de  I'Alma,  du  Point-du-JouTj  and  au  Change; 
the  Opira  and  several  ThecUres;  and  numerous  other  public  and 
private  edifices  date  ftom  this  reign.  The  Chtmin  de  Per  de  Celn- 
ijure,  the  Sewertj  the  Aqueducts  of  the  Dhuis  and  of  the  Vanne,  and 
the  transformation  of  the  Boie  de  Boulogne  and  the  Bois  de  Vincennea 
were  among  the  more  important  public  works.  Universal  Exhibitions 
were  held  m  1865  and  1867. 

In  1860  the  outlying  communes  between  the  old  exterior  boule- 
vards and  the  fortifications  were  incorporated  with  the  city,  increas- 
ing its  area  by  about  1000  acres  and  its  population  by  nearly  300,000. 
The  division  of  the  city  into  twenty  arrondissements  (p.  xxviii)  also 
dates  from  this  period.  In  1861  the  total  population  was  1,667,841. 

The  events  which  led  to  the  fall  of  the  empire  and  those  that 
followed  have  already  been  sketched  (pp.  xx,  xxi). 

The  siege  of  Paris  in  1870-71  ranks  anions  ^he  most  remarkable  oc- 
currences in  the  annals  of  modern  warfare.  Alter  the  decisive  battle  of 
Sedan  (p.  xz)  the  rictorious  German  troops  pushed  forward  to  Paris  with- 
out delay,  while  the  Government  of  the  National  Defence  under  Oen- 
§ral  Trochu  made  the  most  strenuous  exertions  to  place  the  capital  in  a 
state  of  defence.  Cattle  and  grain  were  sent  into  the  city  in  immense 
quantities,  the  roads  by  which  the  Germans  would  probably  march  were 
rendered  impassable,  and  the  arming  of  the  forts  and  the  Enceinte  (p.  xxviii) 
was  proceeded  with  as  rapidly  as  possible.  The  troops  in  Paris  at  the 
beginning  of  the  siege  numbered  about  200,000  men,  but  of  these  only 
60,000  or  70,000  were  regular  soldiers.  The  besieging  force  was  com- 
posed of  six  army-corps  under  the  Crown  Prince  of  Prussia  and  the  army 
of  the  Meuse  under  the  Crown  Prince  of  Saxony,  the  full  strength  of 
whieh  consisted  of  302,000  infantry,  34,000  cavalry,  and  900  guns. 

By  15th  Sept.,  1870,  the  advanced  guard  of  the  Crown  Prince's  army 
was  within  10  M.  of  Paris,  and  on  the  17th  a  pontoon  bridge  was  thrown 
across  the  Seine  at  VUleneuve'St-  Oeorges  (p.  359).  After  a  short  but 
severe  contest  at  Sceaux  with  General  Ducrot,  Versailles  was  reached, 
and  here  a  few  days  later  the  German  Headquarters  were  established 
(comp.  p.  809).  Heaawhile  the  armv  of  the  Meuse  had  occupied  the  ground 
on  the  right  banks  of  the  Seine  and  Harne ,  thus  completing  the  investi- 
ture. The  aim  of  the  besiegers  was  the  reduction  of  the  city  by  famine, 
while  the  only  course  of  defence  practicable  to  the  besieged  was  to  pierce 
the  investing  lines  and  establish  communication  with  the  relief  army  on 
the  Loire. 

The  first  important  sortie  took  place  on  30th  Sept.,  when  General  Vinoy, 
with  10000  men.  made  an  ineffectual  effort  to  break  the  German  lines  at 
Vill^uif  (p.  3^7),  to  the  S.  of  Paris.    A  second  attempts  in  the  direction  of 
Okanart  (p   296)  on  13th  Oct.,  and  a  third  on  La  Malmaison  and  Btuenval 
(pp.  329.  295)  on  21st  Oct.   were  equally  ineffectual.    It  was  during  the 
latter  that  St.  Cloud  was  set  on  fire  by  a  shell  from  Mont  Val^rien.    The 
sortie  of  29th  Oct.   towards  the  N.  was  at  first  more  snccessful.  as  the 
French  gained  possession  of  the  village  of  Le  Bourget  (p.  379).  The  Q%\tii^\)A^ 
however,  succeeded  in  recapturing  it  on  the  3l3t,  alter  pTQ\oTi%%^  ^^Mvcl^ 
and  heavy  loss.    The  besieged  did  not  again  assume  \^«  o^^u&Vq^  nK^^- 
dOth  Wot.  ,   when  Generah  Trochu  and  Ducrot  \ed  lar^ft  \jo^V«k%  o^  Xtoovj 
MgsUmat  the  Qerm&n  poaitiona  to  the  8.E.  of  Paris.    "Box  \\«^^  ^^-l*  ^^* 


xxYi  IT.  GENERAL  REMARKS. 

conflict  WM  sererely  contested,  but  on  8rd  Dec.  the  French  generals  w«re 
compelled  to  withdraw  their  soldiers,  enfeebled  by  cold  and  hanger,  into 
the  city,  leading  their  object  unaccomplished.  A  sortie  towards  Lt  Mowrgtt 
on  2ist  Dec.  met  with  ue  same  fate  as  the  others. 

In  the  meantime  the  besiegers  had  decided  on  a  general  bombard- 
ment of  the  city.  On  29th  Dec.  Mont  Avron  snccnmbed  before  the  Ger- 
man artillery,  and  from  6th  Jan.,  1871,  onwards  an  actire  cannonade  was 
directed  against  the  city  from  almost  every  point  of  its  enrironment.  The 
distress  of  the  besieged  now  reached  its  climax.  The  hopelessness  of  the 
situation  was  recognised  by  all  military  authorities,  but  a  final  sortie 
was  undertaken  in  deference  to  public  .opinion.  The  National  Guards, 
who  had  hitherto  been  spared  active  service,  took  part  in  this  saUy, 
which  was  directed  against  VenailleM ,  under  cover  of  the  guns  of  Momt 
ValMen.  The  French  were  once  more  driven  back,  with  immense  loss, 
on  19th  January. 

Resistance  was  now  at  an  end.  On  23rd  Jan.  Jules  Favre  went  to  Ver- 
saille*  to  negotiate  an  armistice ,  which  was  arranged  on  28th  Jan.  On 
the  following  day  the  Germans  were  put  in  possession  of  the  forts.  The 
preliminaries  of  peace  were  concluded  on  2&th  Feb.  and  signed  on  28th 
Feb.  Part  of  the  German  army  made  a  triumphal  entry  into  Paris  on 
Ist  March,  but  was  withdrawn  in  two  days  on  the  prompt  ratification  of 
the  treaty  of  peace  by  the  National  Assembly  at  Bordeaux. 

The  GoMMUNA&D  Insurbeotion  entailed  a  gecond  siege  of  Paris 
(April  2nd-May  21  st),  more  disastrous  than  the  first,  followed  by  a 
tierce  and  sanguinary  week  of  street-fighting.  The  Tuileries  and 
the  H6tel  de  Yille  were  homed  to  the  ground,  the  Yenddme  Column 
overthrown,  and  many  other  public  and  private  edifices  more  or  less 
completely  ruined. 

Under  the  presidency  of  Thiers  (1870-73)  and  MaeMahon 
(1873-79)  Paris  rapidly  recovered  from  these  disasters.  Most  of  the 
ruined  buildings  rose  from  their  ashes,  and  new  works  were  under- 
taken on  the  occasion  of  the  Universal  Exhibition  of  1878.  The 
Opera  Houte  was  completed,  the  Avenue  de  V0p6ra  was  opened,  tiie 
Palais  du  TrocadSro  and  the  new  H6tel  de  Ville  were  built.  When 
the  Chambers  of  the  Legislature  returned  to  Paris  in  1879,  a  new 
period  of  prosperity  definitely  dawned  for  Paris,  signalized  by  the 
brilliant  Exhibition  of  1889,  commemorating  the  Revolution  of  1789, 
and  the  equally  brilliant  Exhibition  of  1900. 


17.  Oeneral  Eemarks  on  Paris. 

Paris,  the  capital  and  by  far  the  largest  town  of  France,  is  situ- 
ated in  48^50'  N.  lat  and  2^21'  £.  long,  on  the  Seine,  which  flows 
through  it  from  S.E.  to  S.W.,  forming  a  bold  curve  to  the  N.  The 
population  in  1896  was  2,536,834,  including  aboutl87,000  for- 
eigners, 50,000  Protestants,  and  50,000  Jews.  As  early  as  the  end 
of  the  13th  cent,  the  population  was  nearly  200,000;  in  1675, 
under  Louis  XIV.,  it  reached  540,000;  in  1789  it  was  600,000;  in 
1852,  1,053,762;  in  i860,  after  the  inclusion  of  the  faubourgs, 
1,525,235;  In  1870,  1,825,274;  and  In  1891,  2,447,000.  Thlt 
Aus-e  city,  which  occupies  an  area  of  about  20,000  acres,  of  which 
/2, 000  are  oovered  with  buildings,  lies  in  a  "baftm  ol  \«t\.\%rj  V^ti&- 


lY.    GENERAL  REBfARKS.  iXTii 

ation,  the  borders  of  wUcb  are  about  200-300  ft.  above  the  level 
of  the  river  and  420  ft.  above  that  of  the  sea.  The  most  elevated 
points  in  or  adjoining  the  city  are  the  heights  of  Charonne^  MSnil- 
moniant,  BeUeviUe  (B30  ft.),  La  VilUtte,  and  Montmartre  (420  ft.) 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Seine,  and  those  of  La  Maison  Blanche, 
the  Buttt'-aux-Cailles,  and  8te,  Oenevikve  (198  ft.)  on  the  left.  The 
part  of  the  Seine  witiiin  the  city  is  about  7  M.  long  and  is  crossed 
by  81  bridges.  It  contains  two  islands  of  some  size,  the  Jle  St.  Louis 
and  the  He  de  la  XHU,  each  formed  by  the  anion  of  several  islets. 
Paris  is  thus  naturally  divided  into  three  parts ;  the  quarters  on 
the  right  bank,  the  Cittf  with  the  island  of  St.  Louis,  and  the  quar- 
ters on  the  left  bank.  The  old  distinctions  between  Old  Paris,  the 
Faubourgs,  and  the  Communes  Annex^es  have  entirely  disappeared 
amid  the  great  transformations  of  the  past  thirty  years,  during  which 
many  of  the  ancient  streets  have  been  destroyed,  the  main  arteries 
'of  traffic  prolonged  to  the  fortifications,  and  the  whole  area  covered 
with  large  and  handsome  edifices.  The  only  sensible  difference 
1>etween  the  various  districts  now  consists  in  the  greater  traffic 
observable  in  the  central  quarters.  A  glance  at  the  Plan  will  show 
the  limits  of  Old  Pabib,  bounded  by  the  first  circle  of  boulevards, 
the  so-called  Orande  BoxUevarde  (p.  72).  It  should  be  noted, 
however,  that  on  the  left  bank  the  old  city  of  Paris  extended  as  fai 
as  the  boulevards  to  the  S.  of  the  garden  of  the  Luxembourg. 
Outside  the  Great  Boulevards  lie  the  Old  Faubotjbos  or'  suburbs, 
the  names  of  which  are  still  preserved  in  those  of  the  chief  streets 
radiating  from  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  extending  to  the  Outer 
Boulevards  (^Boulevards  EkUrieurs,  p.  73).  The  Faubourgs  them- 
selves are  generally  named  after  the  corresponding  district  of  the 
old  town.  The  most  important  on  the  right  bank,  named  from  £. 
to  W.,  are  the  Faubourgs  8t.  AntomCf  du  TempUy  8t.  Martin,  8t. 
DeniSf  Poisaonnihre,  MontmaHrej  and  8t,  Honori,  Those  on  the 
left  bank  are  less  known ,  with  tibe  exception  of  the  Faubourg  8t, 
Oermain^  which  from  an  early  period  formed  part  of  the  old  city. 
The  Faubourgs  of  St.  Antoine  and  the  Temple  are  the  great  indus- 
trial districts,  the  former  being  the  headquarters  of  the  manufac- 
ture of  furniture,  and  the  latter  of  the  various  fancy  articles  classed 
together  as  'articles  de  Paris*  (real  and  imitation  jewellery,  artificial 
flowers,  toys,  articles  in  leather  and  carved  wood,  etc.).  The  Fau- 
bourgs of  St.  Martin,  St.  Denis,  and  Poissonnidre  are  raUier  commer- 
cial than  industrial,  and  form  the  centre  of  the  wholesale  and 
export  trade  of  the  great  capital.  The  streets  near  the  centre  of 
the  town,  however,  particularly  the  Great  Boulevards,  contain  many 
of  the  finest  retail  shops  in  Paris.  The  Faubourg  Montmartre 
and  the  quarters  of  the  Exchange,  the  Palais-Royal,  and  the  0^4.^^ 
axe  the  financial  quarters  of  the  town,  and.  a\«o  o^nXAi"^  Ti&»:£^  ^k^\ 
that  is  neeessAiy  for  the  comfort  and  entetlainmeiiX.  ^1  's\«NXMt% 
to  ParlB.     The  Faubourg  St.  Honoxtf  and  tYie  Cliam^fi-^Vj^^^^  «^^: 


xxviii  IV,  GENERAL  REMARKS. 

occupied  by  the  mansions  of  tlie  aristocieey  of  wealth,  while  thft 
Faabouig  St.  Germain  is  more  or  less  sacred  to  the  aristocraey 
of  blood,  and  contains  most  of  the  embassies  and  ministerial  of- 
fices. The  QuavtUr  Latin  or  Quartier  det  EeoUs,  whfch  adjoins  the 
Faubourg  St.  Germain  on  the  E.,  owes  its  name  to  the  fact  of  its 
being  the  seat  of  the  university  and  of  many  of  the  scientific  instl* 
tutions  of  Paris.   It  also  contains  several  of  the  chief  libraries. 

The  principal  Communes  ANNSxiss,  or  outlying  districts  within 
the  fortifications,  but  not  incorporated  with  the  city  till  1860,  are 
the  following,  enumerated  from  £.  to  W. :  Btrey,  carrying  on  an  ex- 
tensive wine  and  export  trade;  Charonne,  Minilmontantf  BeUevilUj 
La  ViUettCt  La  ChapeUej  and  Montmartre,,  the  principal  quarters  of 
the  working  classes  and  the  seat  of  the  largest  workshops ;  Les  Bq" 
iignolUij  with  the  studios  of  numerous  artists  and  many  handsome 
private  houses  (on  the  side  next  the  Park  of  Monceau);  Pasty  and 
AuteuU,  with  their  villas ;  OrenelUj  with  iron  foundries  and  chemical 
works ;  Vaugirard^  Montrougej  etc. ,  inhabited  by  persons  of  moderate 
means,  small  shopkeepers,  and  artisans,  and  containing  nnmerons 
large  market-gardens. 

The  Administration  of  Paris  is  shared  between  a  Prefect  of  the 
SeirUy  appointed  by  government,  and  a  Town  Council  (Connil  Mw- 
nicipale),  elected  by  the  citizens.  The  annual  budget  amounts  to 
300,000,000  fr.  (upwards  of  10,000, OOOi.).  The  city  is  subdivided 
into  twenty  AnaoNDissBMBNTS,  separated  from  each  other  by  th«y 
principal  arteries  of  traffic,  and  each  governed  by  a  Maire  and  two 
councillors:  1.  Louvre;  2.  Bourse;  3.  Temple;^:  H6tel  de  VUle; 
5.  PanthSon;  6.  Luxembourg;  7.  Palais- Bourbon;  8.  Elysie;  9. 
Opira ;  10.  Enclos  St.  Laurent  (between  the  Rue  du  Faubourg-Pois- 
sonnidre  and  the  Rue  du  Faubourg-du-Temple) ;  11.  Popineourt 
(extending  from  the  Faubourg  du  Temple  to  the  Faubourg  St.  An- 
toine),  12.  Reuilly  (between  the  Faubourg  St.  Antoine  and  the 
Seine);  13.  Les  Oobelins;  14.  Observatoire ;  15.  Vaugirard'OrC" 
nelle^  16.  Passy;  17.  Les  BatignolleS'-Monceaux ;  18.  Montmartre  ; 
19.  Les  ButUS'Chaumont ;  20.  Minilmontant, 

The  FoRTiFiOATioNs  of  Paris  were  constructed  in  consequence 
of  a  decree  of  1840,  and  were  completed  within  five  years  at  an 
expense  of  140  million  francs  (5,600,0002.).  The  Enceinte,  with  its 
94  bastions,  is  21  M.  in  length.  The  ramparts,  82  ft.  in  height, 
with  a  parapet  19  ft.  in  width,  are  environed  by  a  moat  48  ft.  in 
width,  and  a  glacis.  The  approaches  to  the  city  are  also  commanded 
by  seventeen  Forts  Ditachis^  at  different  distances  from  the  city, 
up  to  a  maximum  of  2  M.  On  the  N.  side,  near  St.  Denis,  are  the 
Forts  de  la  Briche,  Double  Couronne  du  Nord,  and  de  VEst;  on  the 
E.,  Fort  d* Aubervilliers  y  near  Le  Bourget,  Forts  de  Bomainvilley  de 
Noisy,  de  Rosny ,  de  Nogent ,  and  de  Vineennes ,  and  the  redoubts 
^7^  /a  Ihisanderie  and  de  OraveUe ;  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Marne 
/j'es  F'ori  di  Charenton;  to  the  S. ,  on  the  \ett  \iw\!fc  ol  VX^^^^Sm^ 


IV.   GENERAL  REMARKS.  xxix 

ForU  d^Jvry,  de  Bi&itre,  de  Montr ouge,  de  Vanvts^  and  (T/ny;  on 
the  W.,  the  Forttresae  du  Mont  Vdl^rien,  Moet  of  these  were  entire- 
ly destroyed  in  1870-71 ,  but  have  «ince  been  rebuilt.  A  second 
line  of  forts,  at  a  greater  distance  from  the  ramparts,  has  also  been 
eonstmcted  on  the  heights  commanding  the  valley  of  the  Seine. 
On  the  right  bank  of  the  Seine:  the  Forts  de  Cormeillety  de  Mont- 
lignon^  deDomontiMontmoreney^  d^Eeouen^  de  Stains,  deVaujows^ 
de  ChdUiy  de  ViUierey  and  de  ViUeneuve-St-  Oeorges ;  on  the  left 
bank:  the  F6rt$  de  ChdtUlon,  de  la  Butte- CAatimotU,  de  PalaUeau, 
de  ViUeratf  de  Haut-BfiCj  deSalnt-Cyr,  de  Marly,  deSaMe^amme, 
and  d'AigremoiU.  The  area  inclnded  within  this  elaborate  system 
of  fortifications  is  400  sq.  M.  in  extent,  and  besides  the  capital  it- 
self embraces  the  seven  towns  of  Versailles,  Sceanx,  Villenenve- 
St-Georges,  St.  Denis,  Argentenil,  Enghien,  and  St.  Germain- 
en-Laye. 

The  general  appearance  of  Paris  Is  more  uniform  than  that  of 
most  other  towns  of  its  size,  partly  owing  to  the  mixture  of  classes 
resulting  from  the  Great  Revolution,  but  principally  on  account  of 
the  vast  schemes  of  improvement  carried  out  in  our  own  days. 

The  stranger  is  almost  invariably  struck  by  the  imposing  effeci 
produced  by  the  eity  as  a  whole,  and  by  the  width,  straightness,  and 
admirable  condition  of  the  principal  streets.  Piotnresqueness  has 
doubtless  been  greatly  sacrificed  in  the  wholesale  removal  of  the 
older  buildings,  but  the  superior  convenience  and  utility  of  those 
spacious  thoroughfares  Is  easily  appreciated;  and  the  amount  of 
traffic  in  them  proves  that  their  construction  was  a  matter  of  almost 
absolute  necessity.  Most  of  them,  built  at  the  same  period  and  of* 
ten  as  a  mere  building  speculation,  exhibit  an  almost  wearisome 
uniformity  of  style,  but  in  those  at  a  distance  from  the  central 
quarters  considerable  variety  of  taste  is  often  shown. 

The  central  quarters  of  the  city  are  remarkably  bustling  and 
animated,  but  owing  to  the  ample  breadth  of  the  new  streets  and 
boulevards  and  the  fact  that  many  of  them  are  paved  with  asphalt 
or  wood,  Paris  is  a  far  less  noisy  place  than  many  other  large  cities. 
Its  comparative  tranquillity,  however,  is  often  rudely  interrupted 
by  the  discordant  cries  of  the  itinerant  hawkers  of  wares  of  every 
kind ,  such  as  'old  clothes*  men ,  the  vendors  of  various  kinds  ot 
comestibles,  the  crockery-menders ,  the  'fontaniers'  (who  clean  and 
repair  filters,  etc.),  the  dog-barbers,  and  newspaper-sellers.  As  a 
rule,  however,  they  are  clean  and  tidy  in  their  dress,  polite  in  man- 
ner, self-respecting,  and  devoid  of  the  squalor  and  ruffianism  which 
too  often  eharaoterise  their  elass.  In  many  cases  they  claim  to  have 
plied  their  vociferous  trades  ever  since  the  middle -age«.  TV^^Vl 
pronuneiation  will,  of  oourse,  often  puzzle  the  ntAivVW^Xj^^.  OTvH>Gk.^ 
long  vowels  and  the  letter  r  they  nsnally  lay  pTO^i^ouft  %\.t^«»^>  Vd2^^ 
tk0  §hort  vowelB  are  either  prononnoed  in  av^Tj  "Mi^^  wi^^2sri^ 


X.XI  IV.  GENERAL  RElfARKS. 

fasMon  oialtogether  omitted.  Another characteri8tio,tlioii|^  modeic» 
feature  in  the  ttreet-noises  of  Paria  consista  of  the  hoarae  Uaita  of 
the  homa  of  the  tramway-cars. 

As  a  role  the  Parisian  may  be  said  to  inyite  and  deaerre  tka 
confidence  of  travellers.  Accastomed  by  long  usage  to  their  pn- 
sence,  he  is  skilful  in  catering  for  their  wants,  and  xaoonuBendt 
himself  to  them  by  his  politeness  and  oomplaiaanee.  In  itttnm  the 
traveller  in  France  should  accnstom  himself  to  the  inevitable  V8 
V0U8  plati\  when  ordering  refreshments  at  a  caftf  or  xestannni,  of 
making  any  request.  It  is  also  customary  to  address  persona  even  ef 
humble  station  as  ^Mon8ieur\  ^Madame\  or  ^ModemoUMt^. 

The  Sergenta  de  ViUe,  or  Oardient  de  la  Paix,  who  aie  to  be 
met  with  in  every  street  and  public  reiort,  are  always  ready  to 
give  information  when  civilly  questioned.  Visitors  should  avoid  the 
less  frequented  districts  after  night-fall,  and,  as  a  general  rule.  It  ii 
not  advisable  to  linger  even  in  other  quarters  later  than  1  a.m.  They 
should  also  be  on  their  guard  against  the  huge  army  of  piekpooketa 
and  other  rogues,  who  are  quick  to  recognize  the  stranger  and  ikilfiil 
in  taking  advantage  of  his  ignorance.  It  is  perhaps  unneeeeaary 
specially  to  mention  the  card-sharpers  sometimes  met  witb  in  the 
suburban  and  other  trains,  or  the  various  other  dangers  to  purse  and 
health  which  the  French  metropolis  shares  with  other  large  townt. 

The  Parisian  directory,  published  annually,  and  familiarly  known 
as  the  ^Bottin\  which  may  be  consulted  at  itte  principal  botela  and 
caf^s  and  also  (for  a  fee  of  10-15  c.)  at  various  book-shops,  will  often 
be  found  useful  by  those  who  make  a  prolonged  stay  at  Paria.  It  eon- 
sists  of  two  huge  volumes,  one  of  which  contains  a  list  of  the  atxeeti 
and  their  inhabitants,  while  the  other  gives  the  addreaaea  of  the 
most  important  persons  in  the  provinces,  and  even  of  e  number  of 
persons  in  foreign  countries. 

All  stranger!  intending  to  settle  in  Paris  must  make  a  Jhciarmlimt  ef 
their  intention,  with  proof  of  their  identity,  within  fifteen  days,  at  ths 
Prefecture  de  Police,  38  Qnai  das  Orf^res  (Palais  de  Jnstiee),  betwaaa 
10  and  4.  Foreignerg  who  intend  to  practise  any  trade,  bnslwess,  or  pro- 
fession in  Paris  or  other  part  of  France  most  also  make  a  deelaratloa  ta 
that  effect  within  a  week. 


Paris  is  not  only  the  political  metropolis  of  Fiance ,  but  alio 
the  centre  of  the  artistic,  scientific,  commercial,  and  induaiiial  Uih. 
of  the  nation.  Almost  every  branch  of  French  industry  U  lepie- 
6ented  here,  from  the  fine-art  handicrafts  to  the  conatnietioa  of 
powerful  machinery ;  but  Paris  is  specially  known  for  ita  *e 
de  luxe*  of  all  kinds. 

Paris  has  long  enjoyed  the  reputation  of  being  the  meet 

politan  city  in  Europe,  where  the  artist,  the  scholar,  the  i 

and  the  votary  of  pleasure  alike  find  the  most  abundant  sec^  JSdc 

tbeir purauita.    Not  does  this  boaat  appl^  to  modem  tlmei  only;  te 

t/iere  have  been  periods  when  it  waa  moi^  |^^ii«ti2Xi  ai\iftN^»wi\ft%t 


V.  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 


xxzi 


jastiflable  than  at  the  pieaent  day.  For  its  eaily  cosmopolitan  char- 
acter the  city  wag  chiefly  indebted  to  its  University,  to  which  stu- 
dents of  all  nationalities  flocked  in  order  to  be  initiated  into  the 
mysteries  of  the  scholasticism  which  was  taught  here  by  its  most  ac- 
complished professors.  At  the  same  time  industrial  and  commercial 
•Pursuits  made  rapid  strides,  in  consequence  of  which  the  population 
increased  rapidly,  and  an  extension  of  the  municipal  bounda^es  was 
repeatedly  rendered  necessary.  The  adyerse  fortunes  of  the  French 
lungs  frequently  compelled  them  to  give  up  their  residence  in  the 
capital;  but  the  municipal  element  continued  steadily  to  develop 
itself,  and  at  the  present  day  forms  the  chief  characteristic  of  the  city. 
During  the  Revolution  and  the  period  immediately  succeeding  it, 
the  unquestioned  predominance  of  Paris,  which  had  steadily  grown 
since  the  reign  of  Louis  XIY.,  received  a  temporary  check  from  the 
political  disorganisation  of  the  day ;  but  under  the  Directory,  and 
particularly  during  the  First  Empire,  the  city  speedily  regained  its 
pre-eminence.  With  a  similar  buoyancy  Paris  not  only  survived  the 
revolutions  of  1830  and  1848  but  has  recovered  from  the  shock  of 
the  appalling  disasters  of  1870-71 ,  which  seemed  to  threaten  its 
very  existence. 


V.  Weighti  and  Heasnres. 


(In  use 

•ince  1799.) 

1 

1 

1 

s 

In 

a 

!3 

:  ^ 

i 

1 

1 

J 

^ 

» 

n 

H 

F^ 

w    , 

£q 

< 

a 

m 

'^ 

1 

0,30 

i 

S,38 

1 

1,61 

1 

0,62 

1 

0,40 

i 

3,47 

2 

0,81 

2 

6,06 

3 

3*2 

2 

124 

3 

0,81 

s 

494 

3 

0,81 

s 

BM 

3 

i.B3 

a 

l,Bfl 

3 

tai 

3 

7141 

4 

i,aa 

4 

t3,ia 

i 

eu 

4 

a,4^ 

4 

t:ei 

4 

93S 

5 

ij^ 

b 

16  40 

S> 

e,04 

9;b5 

5 

3,iy 

5 

2,03 

5 

12.S5 

e 

1,8B 

fl 

lS},fi9 

6 

6 

b;73 

e 

2,43 

6 

i4,83 

1 

2,13 

7 

2a,fi7 

7 

11^ 

T 

4,36 

7 

2,83 

7 

17,80 

& 

2,41 

S 

36^M 

B 

ja,87 

a 

4,97 

8 

3,'J3 

S 

19,77 

9 

2H 

9 

isjsa 

e 

14,6« 

9 

5,6'-i 

9 

3.es 

9 

22,24 

iO 

3,m 

to 

3a,ei 

10 

ie,09 

10 

6.21' 

10 

1,04 

10 

24,71 

n  1 

3,a6 

11 

36,09 

H 

17,70 

11 

3,b3 

11 

4,44 

11 

27,19 

la 

'6M 

13 

39,37 

13 

19.31 

13 

7,45 

12 

1,36 

13 

29,60 

13 

3,m 

13 

4'J,6& 

,  13 

30,92 

IS 

8,07 

13 

&,2B 

13 

32,12 

u 

i,7l 

14 

15,93 

11 

22,53 

14 

8,69 

U 

5,66 

14 

34,59 

ib 

Lm 

id 

49,31 

1!^ 

21,13 

lb 

9,31 

Ifi 

6,06 

IS 

37.06 

le 

ISA 

16 

B2,46 

IS 

2.'>,74 

IB 

9,93 

10 

646 

le 

39,53 

17 

b.m 

17 

BB,T8 

n 

213a 

n 

10,55 

17 

6,37 

17 

43,00 

IB 

bM 

Ifl 

mm 

IB 

28,96 

IS 

11,1B 

IB 

7,37 

.  \^ 

\>XK^\ 

19 

G,7» 

10 

6a,94 

19 

an,fl7 

19 

11,^ 

Vh 

\  l,Wl 

\  ^^ 

\m,^\ 

20 

u,JO 

*^ 

6&,ffJ 

30 

aj,i8 

90 

1    * 
1 

"^ 

\  ft,<5ft 

\* 

\  v^:? 

£L 

xxxii 


V.  THERMOMETRIO  SCALES. 


The  English  equiyftlents  of  the  French  weights  and  measures 
are  given  approximately. 

Millier  »  1000  kilogrammes  ^  19  cwt.  2  qrs.  22  lbs.  6  oz. 
Kilogramme,    unit  of  weight,   mm  275  lbs.    avoirdupois  ■■ 

2^|lol\)S,  troy. 
Quintal  s=  10  myriagrammes  «b  100  kilogrammes  ma  220  lbs. 
Hectogramme  (7io  kilogramme!  aes  10  d^agrammes  ^  100  gr. 
Bs  1000  decigrammes.  (100  grammes  «b  3^5  oz. ;   16  gr. 
«  1/3  oz. ;  10  gr.  ss  1/3  oz. ;  71/2  g».  «  V4  oz.) 


Hectolitre  8=  iLq  cubic  m^tre  ^ 

Decalitre  as  y^f^  cubic  m^tre  »  10  litres  s  2V5  jals 


Litre,  unit  of  capacity, 


100  Utres  ^  22  gaUons. 
1^/4  pint;  8  litres  ms  f  quarts. 


Thermometric  Scales. 


1 

1 
t 

3 

5 

1 

% 

1 

5 

1 

f 

3 

1 

i 
iS 

+30,22 

+100 

+37,TS 

+21,78 

+81 

+07.22 

+15,33 

+63 

+16.67 

+4,S& 

+*5 

■^f*ji 

29,78 

98 

3^,23 

2l,3i 

en 

26,6  J 

12,89 

61 

16,11 

4.41 

4^ 

6,66 

29,33 

68 

36,67 

20,6iJ 

79 

3i,11 

12,14 

60 

16,5^^ 

^32 

41 

&>*» 

^JS& 

BTT 

m^\ 

ai\u 

78 

36,56 

12,00 

50 

15^00 

3,60 

40 

4,i4 

2H,44 

@e 

35.66 

20,tX) 

77 

36,U0 

11,515 

Si 

11.14 

3.11 

39 

3> 

28,00 

95 

36,on 

19,fiB 

76 

Sl,44 

li;il 

67 

l3,Rfl 

2,67 

38 

ftSfl 

27,56 

94 

^Ai 

10,11 

76 

23,es 

10,67 

56 

13,33 

2,52 

37 

278 

S7.1i 

93 

33,SS 

lS.ff7 

71 

9ft  33 

10,22 

56 

12,78 

1,78 

36 

2,2a 

26.67 

&i 

33  33 

if*/2a 

73 

asjK 

9,78 

54 

12.22 

i,a3 

35 

1.61 

26;^2 

H 

S^ijt^ 

17,75 

12 

32,2^j 

e.a-^ 

53 

11, e7 

0,8y 

34 

1,11 

SiJJB 

90 

33.'^ 

17,33 

71 

21,67 

B,B& 

52 

llJl 

y.4i 

0,58 

25.33 

89 

SL6if 

16,89 

70 

21,11 

8vU 

51 

lU,54i 

0,00 

D,Of^ 

1    24.89 

88 

31,11 

16,44 

69 

90,66 

8.ff> 

50 

im^ 

-0.41 

31 

-o,m 

UM 

&7 

30,56 

16,00 

B:^ 

20,U( 

7,56 

49 

9,14 

0,89 

90 

1,11 

21,410 

&G 

SikOCi 

15,66 

67 

19,4  i 

7,11 

H 

8,89 

i.33 

29 

1,67 

33,56 

86 

T^M 

15.11 

66 

i8,yi* 

8,67 

17 

BSi 

1,78 

28 

2,22 

23,il 

»4 

3s,i<0 

14,67 

66 

1H,33 

6,22 

16 

7,78 

a'i^ 

27 

a.7Si 

22,67 

83 

3S,33 

U,23 

1^1 

17. 7B 

5,78 

16 

7,^2 

2,67 

26 

333 

Wj?7 

33 

27,7B 

13,78 

ea 

17,22 

5,33 

14 

6,67 

3,11 

35 

3,89 

VI.  Bibliography. 

The  following  is  a  very  brief  list  of  recent  and  easily  accessible 
English  books  on  Paris,  which  will  be  found  useful  supplements 
to  this  Handbook. 
The  6  one^  of  Paris  ia  History  and  Letters,  by  B,  B.  and  C.  M.  Martin 
(3  volB.y  iJJo^trated:  London,  19  0). 
MIstorJcAt  Guid  ^  to  Pari*,  by  Grant  Allen  (Loudoti,  1898). 
J'aria,  by  Avffittim  •.  4J,  Eart  (4  ▼oU.\  %iA  *d.,  l*oiAou,  VV»^, 


Vn.  REMARKS  ON  NORTHERN  FRANCE.      xixlll 

Days  near  Paris,  hj  Auff.  J.  0.  Hart  (London,  1887). 
Memorable  Paris  Houses,  by  WUtnot  ffarrUon  (illus. ;  London,  1893). 
An  Englishman  in  Paris  (London,  1892). 
Some  Memories  of  Paris,  by  F.  Adolphus  (Edinburgh,  1890). 
Old  and  New  Paris,  by  H.  /Shttherland  Edwards  (2  vols. ;  iilas. ;  London,  18d3)» 
Paris  in  Old  and  Present  Times,  by  Philip  Gilbert  Hamerton  (£olio,  illus.  j 
London,  1885).  

The  *Annaaire  Statistiqne  de  la  Villc  de  Paris'  and  ^Haehette*$  Al- 
manac' will  often  be  foand  of  service. 

vn.  Eemarkfl  on  Northern  France. 

The  majority  of  yisitois  to  Paris  will  find  comparatively  little  to 
interest  them  in  the  provinces  of  Northern  France.  The  scenery  is 
seldom  so  attractive  as  to  indnce  a  prolonged  stay,  while  the 
towns  are  mere  repetitions  of  the  metropolis  on  a  small  scale. 
The  modern  taste  for  improvement ,  which  has  been  so  strongly 
developed  and  so  magnificently  gratified  in  Paris,  has  also  mani- 
fested itself  in  the  provincial  towns.  Broad  and  straight  streets 
with  attractive  shop -windows  are  rapidly  superseding  old  and 
crooked  lanes ;  whole  quarters  of  towns  are  being  demolished,  and 
large,  regular  squares  taking  their  place;  while  the  ramparts  of 
ancient  fortifications  have  been  converted  into  boulevards,  faintly 
resembling  those  at  Paris.  Admirably  adapted  as  these  utilitarian 
ohanges  doubtless  are  to  the  requirements  of  the  age,  it  cannot 
but  be  deeply  regretted  that  the  few  characteristic  remnants  of 
antiquity  which  survived  the  storms  of  the  wars  of  the  Huguenots 
and  the  great  Revolution ,  and  have  hitherto  resisted  the  mighty 
centralising  influence  of  the  metropolis,  are  now  rapidly  vanishing. 
Those  who  were  acquainted  with  such  towns  as  Rouen  and  Angers 
about  the  year  1850  or  earlier  will  now  become  painfully  aware 
of  this  fact. 

The  towns  of  France,  as  a  rule,  present  less  variety  than  those 
of  most  other  countries.  They  almost  invariably  rejoice  in  their 
boulevards,  glass-arcades,  ^jardins  des  plantes',  theatres,  and  caf^s, 
all  of  which  are  feeble  reproductionB  of  their  great  Parisian  models. 
Each  also  possesses  its  museum  of  natural  history,  its  collection 
of  casts  and  antiquities,  and  its  picture-gallery,  the  latter  usually 
consisting  of  a  few  modern  pictures  and  a  number  of  mediocre 
works  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries. 

The  magnificent  churches,  however,  which  many  of  these  towns 
possess,  offer  attractions  not  to  be  disregarded  by  even  the  most 
hasty  traveller.     The  Gothic  style,  which  originated  in  France,  has 
attained  a  high  degree  of  perfection  in  the  northern  provinces,  espe- 
cially in  Normandy,  which  was  a  district  of  great  im^ttWiR.^  Nxv  ^^ 
middle  ages.    Architects  will  find  abundant ma\jfei\a\\iei^  lQ.T"Oft» 
most  interestjii^  Btndiea,  and  even  the  amateut  tatviwit  i^NN.  Xa^^^^ 
hnpressed  by  the  gems  of  Gothic  architectuie,  autli  a'^^V'- ^^^"^  ^^    { 
Bamdmkmb.  Psn'B,    Uth  Edit.  t 


xxxiT  Vn.   BEMABKS  ON  NORTHERN  FRANCE. 

Rouen,  or  the  cathedral  of  Chaitres,  notwithstanding  the  alterations 
which  most  of  them  have  undergone.  The  Hognenots  made  de- 
plorable havoc  in  the  interiors  of  the  churches,  and  the  Revolution 
followed  their  example  and  converted  the  sacred  edifices  into  'Tom- 
pies  of  Reason'.  The  task  of  restoring  and  preserving  these  noble 
monuments  has  been  begun  and  is  now  everywhere  progressing. 

Hotels  of  the  highest  class  and  fitted  up  with  every  modem 
comfort  are  found  in  such  towns  only  as  Havre,  Rouen,  Dieppe,  and 
Tours,  where  the  influx  of  visitors  is  very  great,  and  where  the 
charges  are  quite  on  a  Parisian  scale.  In  other  places  the  inns 
generally  retain  their  primitive  provincial  characteristics,  which, 
were  it  not  for  their  frequent  want  of  cleanliness,  might  prove 
rather  an  attraction  than  otherwise.  The  usual  charges  at  houses 
of  the  latter  description  are  —  R.  2  fr.,  L.  25-50  c,  A.  50  c. 
The  table  d'hdte  dinner  (3-4  fr.)  at  5.  30  or  6  o'clock  is  generally 
better  than  a  repast  procured  at  other  places  or  hours.  The  dejeuner 
(172-2  fr.)  at  10  or  11  o'clock  will  be  regarded  as  superfluous  by 
most  English  travellers,  especially  as  it  occupies  a  considerable 
time  during  the  best  part  of  the  day.  A  slight  luncheon  at  a  cafitf, 
which  may  be  partaken  of  at  any  hour,  will  be  found  far  more 
convenient  and  expeditious.  In  southern  districts,  as  on  the 
Loire ,  wine  is  usually  included  in  the  charge  for  dinner.  In 
Normandy  a  kind  of  cider  is  frequently  drunk  in  addition  to,  oi 
as  a  substitute  for  wine.  The  usual  fee  for  attendance  at  hotels 
is  1  fr.  per  day ,  if  no  charge  is  made  in  the  bill ;  if  service  is 
charged,  50  c.  a  day  in  addition  is  generally  expected.  At  the  cbUb 
also  the  waiters  expect  a  trifling  gratuity,  but  the  obnoxious  system 
is  not  carried  to  such  an  extent  as  in  the  metropolis. 

The  Chu&chbs,  especially  the  more  important,  are  open  the 
whole  day;  but,  as  divine  service  is  usually  performed  in  the 
morning  and  evening,  the  traveller  will  find  the  middle  of  the  day 
or  the  afternoon  the  most  favourable  time  for  visiting  them.  The 
attendance  of  the  sacristan,  or  'Suisse',  is  seldom  necessary; 
the  usual  gratuity  is  50  c. 

Considerable  English  communities  are  resident  in  many  of  the 
towns  mentioned  in  the  Handbook,  and  opportunities  of  attending 
English  churches  are  frequent  (e.g.  at  Calais,  Boulogne,  Dieppe, 
Havre,  and  Rouen). 

The  Museums  are  generally  open  to  the  public  on  Sundays 
and  Thursdays  from  12  to  4  o'clock,  when  they  are  often  crowded. 
Visitors  may  always  obtain  access  at  other  times  for  a  gratuity 
(1  fr.).    Catalogues  may  be  borrowed  from  the  concierge. 

A  fuller  account  of  N.  France  is  given  in  Baedeker^s  Handbook 
to  Northern  France. 


Sketch  of  FroAoh  Art 

by 
Db.  Waltheb  Gbnsel. 

Tlie  earliest  achieTements  of  art  in  France,  as  illustrated  in  the 
historieal  museum  at  Saint -Germain -en -Laye,  possess  but  little 
interest  for  the  majority  of  Tisitors  to  Paris ;  even  the  monuments 
of  the  Gallo-Roman  period  and  of  the  Merovingian  and  Carlovingian 
epochs  are  of  real  importance  only  to  the  professed  archseologist. 
The  ordinary  art-lover  finds  little  to  attract  him  in  French  art  before 
the  close  of  the  9th  century.  About  the  year  1000,  however,  its 
Romanesque  churches  and  sculptures  placed  France  in  the  front 
rank  of  artistic  nations ;  a  century  and  a  half  later  Gothic  art  arose 
in  Northern  France,  where  it  speedily  attained  Its  earliest  and 
finest  perfection;  during  the  Renaissance  period  French  aitists 
produced  works,  notably  in  the  domains  of  profane  architecture 
and  sculpture,  which  need  not  shrink  from  comparison  with  Italian 
works  of  the  same  date;  in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries  Paris 
was  the  home  of  an  imposingly  gorgeous  deporative  art,  which  com- 
pelled the  admiration  and  emulation  of  the  rest  of  Europe;  and 
since  the  Revolution  the  dominant  currents  of  modem  art  have 
flowed  from  the  same  centre.  The  course  of  the  vast  development 
thus  indicated  abounds  in  vicissitudes,  and  it  is  the  object  of  the 
following  sketch  to  throw  some  light  upon  the  various  stages.  For 
the  study  of  French  architecture  Paris  by  itself  is  insufficient ;  but 
for  painting  and  sculpture  an  exceptionally  rich  field  of  study  is 
afforded  by  the  Louvre,  the  Luxembourg,  the  Trocad6ro,  and  the 
Musses  de  Cluny,  Carnavalet,  and  Galli^ra,  supplemented  by  Ver- 
sailles ,  St  Denis,  and  Ghantilly  in  the  immediate  environs,  and 
Fontainebleau  and  Compi^gne  a  little  farther  off. 

Among  the  many  causes  that  contributed  to  the  development  of 
RoxAiTBSQUB  Akchtfectubb  may  be  noted  the  enormous  growth  in 
the  power  of  the  church;  the  need  of  providing  fitting  shrines  for 
the  relics  brought  home  by  the  numerous  pilgrims;  the  necessity 
of  rebuilding  the  churches  burned  by  the  Northmen,  and  the  effort 
to  make  the  new  churches  larger  and  more  lasting  than  their  pre- 
decessors ;  and,  perhaps,  also  the  relief  experienced  all  overChrlsteu- 
dom^on  the  lapse  of  the  year  1000,  which  had  been  universally 
expected  to  bring  the  end  of  the  world.    Romauesc^\x^  w^\C\Xfc^\Q:i^ 
adhered  In  general  to  the  fundamental  forma  ot  t\ift  Taiomwv  \i^"9jCC\^^> 
though  at  Vie  same  time  it  developed  these  and  ViicoT^^t^X.^^  VVOft. 
tkem  BrxsDtine,  French^  and  Saracenic  elementa.    Ixv  Wie  ^oViJa.  ^'^' 


xxxvl  FRENCH  ART. 

least  the  arrangement  of  a  nave  betwixt  lower  aisles,  with  the  foimer 
supported  by  pillars  Instead  of  columns ,  is  practically  uniyersal. 
The  transepts  project  but  slightly  beyond  the  aisles ,  and ,  in  the 
French  examples,  almost  invariably  terminate  in  a  straight  line. 
The  simple  apse  is  developed  into  a  choir,  frequently  with  radiating 
chapels.  Many  churches  potteis  a  vestlbide,  in  some  cases  forming 
practically  an  anterior  nave.  The  edifice  is  crowned  by  a  square, 
an  octagonal,  or  (more  rarely)  a  circular  tower,  rising  above  the  cross- 
ing, or  on  one  side  of  the  choir,  or  in  the  centre  of  the  facade. 
Occasionally  two,  three,  or  even  six  towers  are  founds  But  the  main 
distinguishing  feature  of  the  fully  developed  Romanesque  style  is 
the  vault  The  tannel- vaulting  of  antiquity  is  universal  in  South 
Eastern  France  and  was  there  most  persistently  adhered  to;  but  in 
Burgundy  and  Northern  France,  where  at  first  the  choir  and  aisles 
only  were  vaulted,  the  nave  receiving  a  flat  roof^  a  transition  was 
made  at  an  early  period  to  the  groined  vault,  the  full  importance  of 
which,  however,  was  not  at  first  recognized.  Finally,  In  South 
Western  France  we  find  domed  structures,  recalling  San  Marco  at 
Venice,  the  most  prominent  of  which  is  the  church  of  St.  Front  at 
Perigueux,  The  most  celebrated  Romanesque  churches  in  France  are 
St.  Sernin  at  Toulouse  and  Ste.  Foy  at  Conquea  in  the  S.,  Notre-Dame- 
du-Port  at  Clermont-Ferrand  and  St.  Paul  at  Issoire  in  Auvergnei 
St.  Philibert  at  Toumus  and  Ste.  Madeleine  at  Vixelay  in  Burgundy, 
St  Etienne  and  the  Trinity  at  Caen  in  the  North  West,  Notre- 
Dame  at  Poitiers  in  the  West,  and  Ste.  Croix  at  Bordeaux  in  the 
South  West 

The  substitution  of  heavy  stone  vaulting  for  the  earlier  wOoden 
roofs  Involved  a  substantial  increase  in  the  thickness  of  the  walls 
and  a  very  great  reduction  in  the  size  of  the  windows  and  other 
light-openings.  The  result  was  somewhat  heavy  and  sombre,  and 
an  endeavour  to  relieve  this  effect  was  made  by  the  free  use  of 
painting  and  sculpture.  In  the  interior,  sculptures  were  chiefly 
placed  on  the  capitals  of  the  pillars;  on  the  exterior,  at  first  in  the 
pediment ,  or  tympanum ,  over  the  portal ,  but  later  on  the  entiie 
facade.  Byzantine  influence  manifests  itself  in  Southern  France  not 
only  in  the  exaggerated  length  of  the  figures  and  in  the  peculiar 
arrangement  of  the  folds  of  the  drapery ,  but  also  in  the  preference 
shown  for  chimaeras,  dragons,  quadrupeds  with  human  heads,  and 
similar  monsters.  The  sculptors  of  Burgundy  and  Auvergne,  however, 
early  developed  a  certain  measure  of  independence  and  began  to 
utilize  the  native  flora  and  fauna  as  patterns  for  carvings.  The  exe- 
cution is  still  generally  clumsy,  but  the  dignity  of  the  general  result, 
the  feeling  for  decorative  effect,  the  rich  play  of  fancy,  the  profound 
sincerity  and  delightful  abandon  of  the  sculptors,  all  lead  us  to 
prize  these  *Bibles  in  stone'  as  the  significant  heralds  of  a  great  art. 
Every  lover  of  art  will  be  richly  repaid  by  a  close  study  of  the  por- 
tsJs  and  capitals  of  St,  OilleSy   St.  Txop\iime  «X  AtUs,  ^Jcv^  m^'iu^'s^firi 


FRENCH  ART.  xxxrii 

of  Moissac ,  and  the  chuTclies  of  Autun^  Charlieuy  and  Vitelay ,  for 
wMoli  an  oppoitnnity  la  aiforded  hy  the  casts  in  the  Trocad^ro  Mnsenm. 

The  oiiginal  paintings  in  the  Romanesqne  ohurches  hare  utterly 
diBappeared,  Trith  the  exception  of  a  few  fragments  at  Tours ^PoU 
tiers  J  Ligett  and  some  other  spots;  but  namerons  miniatures  of  the 
period  have  been  preserved.  Industrial  art  was  at  a  comparatively 
low  ebb  during  the  Romanesque  period ;  but  a  promising  beginning 
may  be  detected  in  the  work  of  the  goldsmiths  and  in  the  allied  art 
of  enamelling,  as  well  as  in  the  embroidering  of  tapestry. 

We- have  seen  how  the  employment  of  the  Romanesque  vaulting 
led  to  the  darkening  of  church-interiors.  However  welcome  this 
may  have  been  in  the  vivid  sunlight  of  the  south,  it  suited  ill  with 
the  misty  climate  of  the  north.  An  escape  from  this  disadvantage 
was  found  when  the  architects  realized  that  they  might  build  their 
naves  as  wide  and  as  high  as  they  chose  and  pierce  their  walls  with 
as  many  windows  as  they  desired,  if  only  the  piers  that  supported 
the  vaulting  were  sufficiently  strengthened  from  without,  above  the 
aisles.  The  invention  of  ordinary  and  flying  buttresses  led  to  the 
rise  of  a  new  architecture,  that  was  to  prevail  in  the  north  for  over 
three  centuries ;  and  that  invention  was  made  in  the  Isle  de  France,  in 
the  centre  of  Northern  France .  The  French,  therefore,  have  some  show 
of  reason  on  their  side  when  they  attempt  to  displace  the  originally 
contemptuous  name  of  Gothic  Art  in  favour  of  the  title  'French 
Aft^.  Light  could  now  be  admitted  so  freely  that  the  churches 
seemed  almost  'built  of  light',  to  borrow  a  phrase  once  applied  to 
the  Sainte  Chapelle  at  Paris.  The  huge  windows  were  now  univer- 
sally and  naturally  set  in  the  pointed  arches  originally  borrowed 
from  the  East ;  and  their  gradual  adornment  with  richer  and  richer 
tracery;  the  embellishment  of  the  buttresses  with  bosses  and  crockets, 
and  of  the  pediments  with  flnials ;  the  prolongation  of  the  nave  into 
the  choir  and  of  the  aisles  into  the  ambulatory;  and  the  enhanced 
size  and  importance  accorded  to  the  crossing  and  the  transepts  are 
all  characteristic  features  of  the  GK>thic  style  that  were  practically 
inevitable. 

The  extraordinarily  rapid  and  rich  development  of  the  new  art 
was  most  powerfully  fostered  by  the  contemporaneous  growth  in 
the  power  of  the  towns ,  which  is  evidenced  by  the  fairs  of  Troyes^ 
Beatuahej  and  8t.  Denis,  and  by  the  rise  and  progress  of  the  trade- 
gnilds.  Just  as  the  French  Romanesque  churches  arose  chiefly  in 
ooanectton  with  the  monasteries  (especially  Cistercian  and  Cluniac 
monasteries)  and  bore  a  priestly  stamp,  so  the  Gothic  cathedrals 
typify  the  strength  and  prosperity  of  the  towns  and ,  in  spite  of  all 
their  heavenward  aspiration,  breathe  the  joy  of  mundane  life.  No 
town  was  willing  to  lag  behind  the  rest,  so  the  wondrous  bu.U^\ii^ 
arose  in  every  quarter. 

Whether  Gothic  art  attained  iU  highest  develo^mwit  Vh^tw^^** 
U  M  §amewist  ua&ultful  question  J  for  every  answer  "iwi»^'^«>'D^^^^ 


xxxviii  FRENCH  ART. 

or  lesg  dictated  by  pergonal  taste.  There  is,  howeTer,  no  doubt  that 
in  France  it  reached  its  earliest  period  of  bloom.  And  the  eurUeit 
examples ,  in  which  there  are  eyident  traces  of  a  mighty  struggle, 
naturally  attract  the  stndent  first  and  retain  his  interest  longoii 
The  transition  from  Romanesque  to  (}k)thic  may  be  traeed  in  the 
abbey  church  of  8U  Denis,  consecrated  by  Abbot  Soger  In  the 
year  1140.  The  earliest  purely  Gothic  cathedral  of  large  size  it  that 
of  Laon,  with  its  incomparably  spacious  interior.  Notre  Bame  at 
Paris  and  the  cathedral  of  Chartres  were  both  founded  in  the  12th 
century,  while  Bheims  and  Amiena  belong  wholly  to  the  13th.  In  all 
these,  as  contrasted  with  later  buildings,  the  horizontal  line  is  strongly 
emphasized.  The  facade  of  Notre  Dame  rises  in  five  distinet  stoiiei. 
One  cannot  too  much  admire  the  tapte  and  skill  with  wMeh  the 
architect  has  graduated  these,  from  the  elaborate  portals  lying  doiest 
to  the  eye,  up  to  the  severely  simple  towers.  Unfortunately  mnoh  of 
the  original  effect  has  been  lost,  owing  to  the  ill-advised  modem 
isolation  of  the  church,  which  deprives  it  of  its  foil,  and  alio  owing 
to  the  erection  of  huge  modern  piles  in  the  neighbourhood.  All  the 
same,  Notre  Dame  and  the  cathedrals  of  Chartres,  Rheimi,  and 
Amiens  attain  the  high-water  marlL  of  early  Gothic.  The  older 
bell-tower  and  the  spacious  interior  of  Charires  produce  a  tin- 
gularly  impressive  eifect,  while  Bheima  is  imposing  from  the  bound- 
less wealth  of  its  sculptures;  but  Amiens  is,  perhaps,  tiio  nuMt 
harmonious  of  the  large  cathedrals  and  one  of  the  most  pezCBet 
buildings  of  the  middle  ages,  in  the  consistency  and  the  uni- 
formity of  its  construction  and  in  its  union  of  boldness  with  aelf- 
restraint,  of  dignity  with  grace.  Amongst  the  other  chief  mon- 
uments of  this  fabulously  active  period  we  may  mention  the 
cathedrals  of  Beauvais,  Bouen,  Le  Mans,  TourSf  Bourges^  ZVoyts, 
Auxerre,  and  Dijon,  The  most  famous  examples  of  late-Gothio 
(^ style  rayonnant*;  14th  cent.)  are  the  church  of  St  Ouen  st 
Bouen  in  the  North,  and  the  cathedral  of  Albi  in  the  South.  Free- 
dom has  been  ^ully  achieved ;  the  general  effect  suggests  a  consum- 
mate mastery  over  the  difficulties  of  the  forms.  The  .hoiizontsl 
line  seems  to  have  disappeared  from  view;  the  building  towers 
towards  heaven  as  if  detached  from  earth.  But  this  devcdopment 
concealed  within  itself  the  germ  of  decline.  The  cleverest  arith- 
metician became  at  last  the  greatest  builder ,  works  of  art  degene- 
rated into  artful  devices,  over-elaboration  usurped  the  place  ef 
simple  delight  in  richness,  and  the  loving  handling  of  detail  uak 
into  pettiness  and  pedantry. 

Secular  architecture  developed  more  slowly  and  therefore  enjoyed 
a  longer  period  of  bloom  than  ecclesiastical.  The  most  impodng 
Gothic  castles  belong  to  the  14th  century :  vIm,  the  palace  of  the  Ptopei 
at  Avignon  and  the  castle  of  Pierre fonds,  so  successfully  rettoftd 
bjr  VioUet-le'Dao,  No  other  civic  palace  can  bear  compailsoii  wiik 
the  noble  PmIaIb  de  Ju6tice  at  Bouen,  ioua^e^  «4k  \a\A  laH^H^T 


FRENCH  ART.  zxxix 

of  the  15tlL  century.  The  most  beautiful  private  mansions  are  the 
H6tel  Jaeqnes  Goenr  at  Bourges  (details  at  the  Trocad^rol  and 
the  Parisian  residence  of  the  Abbots  of  Olnny  (now  the  MuE^e  de 
Cluny)  at  ParU, 

As  the  13th  century  marks  the  zenith  of  Gothic  architecture  in 
France,  so  it  also  marks  the  first  great  period  of  French  Sculptubb. 
*I  am  convinced*,  says  the  Marquis  de  Laborde,  4hat  the  Gothic 
sculptors  would  have  advanced  to  the  ideal  beauty,  and  even  to  the 
boldest  study  of  the  nude,  had  that  been  the  object  sought  by  their 
contemporaries;  but  the  desire  then  was  for  typical  forms  of  search- 
ing truth,  suffering  and  mystic  in  aspect,  clad  with  the  conventual 
shyness  that  was  the  fashion  of  the  time.'  These  works  are  not  at 
first  eafiily  understood  by  those  who  approach  them  direct  from  a 
study  of  the  antique  or  of  the  Renaissance.  We  must  lose  ourselves 
in  contemplating  them,  before  they  will  begin  to  speak  to  us.  These 
Christs ,  Madonnas ,  and  Apostles  are  monumental  figures  in  the 
truest  sense  of  the  phrase ,  with  their  supramundane  expression  of 
countenance ,  their  simple  yet  significant  gestures ,  and  the  scanty 
folds  of  their  robes,  which  adapt  themselves  so  wonderfully  to  the 
architecture.  The  Death  of  the  Virgin  in  Notre  Dame  at  Paris,  the 
figures  on  the  facade  of  Chartres,  and  the  *Beau  DIeu'  of  Amiens 
are  among  the  most  pregnant  sculptures  of  all  time  (casts  at  the 
Trocad^ro).  But  so  strict  a  feeling  of  style  cannot  maintain  itself 
long.  Either  it  will  degenerate  into  a  system  of  empty  formulss,  or 
it  will  be  broken  down  by  the  victorious  pressure  of  realism.  The 
latter  was  the  case  here.  The  Naturalistic  Reaction  which  set  in 
In  the  i4th  century  exercised  a  destructive  effect  upon  ecclesiastical 
sculpture,  but  on  the  other  hand  wrought  for  good  on  the  sepulchral 
monuments,  as  may  be  traced  in  the  crypt  of  8t,  Denis.  It  may, 
however,  be  questioned  whether,  left  to  themselves,  the  French 
sculptors  could  have  attained  the  high  levpl  on  which  we  find  this 
new  tendency  at  the  close  of  the  14th  century.  Salvation  came  from 
the  north,  the  same  north  in  which  a  little  later  the  painters  Van 
Eyck  produced  their  mastprpieces.  A  nnmber  of  Flemish  artists  were 
then  working  at  the  court  of  the  French  kii»gs  —  P/pin  of  Buy  near 
Ll^ge,  Beauneven  of  Valenciennes,  Paul  of  Limbnrg,  Jacquemnrt  of 
Qesdin.  The  most  renowned,  however,  was  the  Borguridian  school, 
with  Clnux  Sluter  at  its  head.  The  Moses  fountain ,  the  statues  on 
the  facade  of  the  Chartreuse  near  Dijon,  and  the  tomb  of  Philip  the 
Bold,  which  Sluter  executed  in  1367  et  seq.  with  the  aid  of  his 
pupils  Jean  de  MarviVe  and  Claux  de  Werwe,  may  be  boldly  placed 
beside  the  works  of  Donatello.  who  fionrisbed  more  than  a  genera- 
tion later.  The  famous  stati  ettes  of  ^Pleureurs*  from  the  tomb  of 
Philip,  well-known  from  numerous  reproductions,  may  be  com^ax^^ 
with  the  larfrer  mourners  f^om  the  contempotai^  toitv\i  ^il  VVvNN^^^ 
Pot  in  the  Louvre.  The  Utter  tomb  and  the  wotid«itw\  aVUx  ^>  A\x  ^^^ 
now  muaUy  attributed  to  Jacques  Morel,  wYio  \ft  %T3L^^o%«k^  \Q\iV*^ 


xl  FRENCH  ART. 

been  the  sculptor  of  the  unfortunately  mutilated  sepulchzal 

of  Charles  I.  of  Bourbon  and  his  consort  at  Souvigny,   Casts  of  most 

of  these  works  may  be  seen  at  the  Trocad<^ro. 

Decobatiye  Soulptubb  naturally  found  Its  most  fsyoanbls 
field  for  doTelopment  in  the  cathedrals ,  especially  in  the  choiT- 
apses.  lu  late-Gothic  (Flamboyant  Style ;  15th  cent.)  the  work  of 
the  stone-carver  overshadowed  and  almost  smothered  that  of  the 
architect.  The  rood-screens  at  Troyea  and  Limoges  and  [the  lihxiiy 
staircase  in  Rouen  may  be  mentioned  among  famous  works  in  the 
interior  of  cathedrals.  Side  by  side  with  sculpture  in  stone  sdTsacei 
wood-carving ,  which  manifests  its  finest  results  in  the  facades  of 
private  houses,  on  screens  and  chests,  but  above  all  on  choir-sUllf 
(Amiens).  Finally  some  good  carving  in  ivory  was  also  aohieTed, 
t.g,  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  in  the  Louvre. 

The  extraordinary  poverty  that  prevailed  in  the  department  of 
Painting  at  this  time  stands  in  curious  contrast  to  the  well-hetBg 
enjoyed  by  sculpture  and  architecture,  though  this  remark  must  he 
limited  to  fresco-painting  and  easel-painting.  While  the  Tan  Eyoks, 
Yan  der  Weyden,  and  Memling  were  busily  engaged  in  Flsaden, 
and  while  in  Italy  the  quattrocento  beheld  these  branches  of  pslntiiig 
advancing  from  stage  to  stage,  we  can  discover  in  France  only  a 
few  names  and  almost  fewer  works.  On  the  other  hand  the  long- 
established  art  of  miniature-painting  now  reached  its  highest  point 
The  MSS.  illuminated  about  1400  for  the  Duke  of  Berri,  the  duel 
but  no  less  splendour-loving  third  son  of  John  II.,  are  yeritshle 
gems.  The  finest  of  these,  now  one  of  the  most  precious  treasures 
at  Chantilly,  is  beyond  question  the  Livre  d'Heures,  with  its  land- 
scapes, views  of  castles,  and  genre-scenes.  But  even  in  this  ease 
the  artists  were  ^Franco-Flemings*  —  the  above-mentioned  JSeoM- 
neveuj  Jacquemartj  and  Paul,  Glass  Painting  also  enjoyed  a  brilliant 
development  in  the  Gothic  period.  The  illumination  pouring  from  sll 
sides  into  the  churches  through  the  tall  upright  lights  and  the  great 
rose-windows  that  had  been  developed  from  the  ancient  'oouU*,  re- 
quired to  be  subdued,  while  the  windows  themselveb  had  to  hs 
embellished.  The  finest  stained  glass  of  the  12th  century  in  Franoe  is 
in  the  windows  of  the  W.  facade  of  Chartres,  and  the  finest  of  the 
13th  century  is  in  the  rose-windows  of  Notre  Dam^  (north  portal), 
Rheims^  Bourgesy  and  Toun^  and  in  the  windows  of  the  oathednii 
oiLtMaM  and  Ckarires  and  of  the  exquisite  Sainte  Chapelle  at  PufU, 
The  connection  between  glass-painting  and  painting  proper  is,  how- 
ever, not  very  close ;  the  glass-painters  are  more  concemedwith  the 
colour-effect  of  the  whole  than  with  accuracy  in  the  drawing  and 
colouring  of  details ;  they  think  nothing  of  giving  a  man  yellow  hair 
and  a  green  beard.  The  more  technically  perfect  the  painting  be- 
came at  a  later  period,  the  more  completely  was  the  nal've  sanse  of 
colour  lost. 

The  art  o/ Enambllino  is  anotlier  \>ianc;Vi  ol  ^^Vo^^n^  ^AmI  wis 


^       >VP^fENCH  ART.  xli 

carried  to  a  high  \^  Tot  perfection  in  this  period,  especially 
at  Limoges,  The  12tD  and  13th  centuries  saw  the  zenith  of  ^Email 
Champlev^,  in  which  the  artist  engraves  the  designs  upon  the  metal 
plate  and  fills  in  ihe  lines  or  grooves  with  enamel  (Ital.  smalto ;  Fr. 
^mail);  while  the  14th  and  15th  centuries  saw  the  perfection  of 
^£mail  Translucide',  in  which  the  entire  plate  is  covered  with  a  thin 
coating  of  enamel,  allowing  the  engraved  design  to  shine  through. 
Finally,  the  weaving  of  Tapbstby  attained  to  great  perfection  during 
the  i5th  century  in  the  workshops  of  Arras,  Auhusson,  and  Paris. 
The  finest  example  of  this  period  now  to  be  found  in  Paris  is  the 
series  illustrating  the  romance  of  the  Lady  and  the  Unicorn,  in  the 
Mus^e  de  Oluny. 

In  spite,  however,  of  the  fact  that  some  artists  produced  great 
works  during  the  first  half  of  the  15th  century,  signs  of  exhaustion 
had  already  begun  to  appear.  Gothic  architecture  continued,  indeed, 
to  be  practised  after  the  beginning  of  the  i6th  century,  as  is 
proved  by  the  choir-apses  at  Amiens  and  Chartres,  the  Grosse  Horloge 
at  RoueUy  and  the  Tour  St.  Jacques  and  the  church  of  St.  Merri  at 
Paris;  but  on  the  whole  it  had  by  that  time  outlived  its  mandate, 
and  even  Franco-Flemish  art  had  said  its  last  word  in  the  works  of 
Sluter.  What  L.  Courajod  calls  a  ^relaxation  of  realism'  awakened 
a  strong  desire  for  beauty  and  nobility  of  form  —  a  desire  that 
could  be  satisfied  only  from  the  South.  As  early  as  1450  the 
greatest  artists  were  under  the  influence  of  the  Italian  Renais- 
sance. Elements  from  both  the  North  and  the  South  are  found 
strangely  mingled  in  Jean  Foucquet  of  Tours  (b.  1415),  the  most 
important  French  painter  of  this  period,  who  had  spent  several  years 
in  Italy  and  painted  the  portrait  of  Pope  Eugenius  IV,  The  Livre 
d'Ueures  painted  by  Foucquet  for  Etienne  Chevalier,  and  now  at 
Chantilly,  is  one  of  the  most  exquisite  creations  in  the  whole  range 
of  miniature -painting;  while  the  portraits  of  the  Chancellor  des 
Ursins  and  Charles  Vll.  in  the  Louvre  proclaim  the  same  artist  as 
a  great  portrait-painter.  Two  of  his  younger  contemporaries  —  Jean 
Bourdichon,  who  painted  the  famous  Heures  of  Anne  of  Brittany, 
and  Jean  Perrial  —  had  also  visited  Italy.  The  centre  of  French 
art  at  this  period  was  Tours^  and  here  also  worked  Michel  Colombe 
(d.  1512),  the  most  celebrated  sculptor  of  the  time.  Colombo's  chief 
work  is  the  tomb  of  Francis  II.,  Duke  of  Brittany,  in  Nantes,  and 
some  authorities  are  inclined  to  ascribe  to  him  also  the  expressive 
Entombment  at  Sotesmes,  Casts  of  both  these  works  are  at  the  Tro- 
cad^ro,  while  the  Louvre  contains  an  original  work  of  Colombe  (St. 
George  and  the  Dragon). 

The  relations  of  the  court,  but  more  particularly  the  Italian  cam- 
paigns of  the  French  kings,  turned  the  scale.  Charles  YIII.  brought 
back  with  him  not  only  paintings  but  painters,  aivd  wxv^^tVwv^"^"^^. 
began  that  great  immigration  of  Italian  aitisU  m\.Q  ^ \vcv<j.^  ^Vv'=^V 
culwJnsted  under  Francis  I.     In  1L07  Andrea  Solaxlo  ^^Viv^.^'J^  ^'^ 


xlil  FRENCH 


Atv 


chapel  of  Chateau  Gaillon ;  in  i6iQ  Leonardo  da  Vinci  came  to  France, 
in  1518  Andrea  del  Sarto,  in  1630  Rosso^  in  1631  Frimaticcio, 

The  result,  the  French  Renaissancb,  did  not  wholly  come  up 
to  expectation  —  least  of  all  in  the  domain  of  painting.  The  plant, 
which  in  Italy  itself  had  passed  its  best,  could  put  forth  only  a  few 
feeble  blossoms  when  transplanted  to  a  foreign  soil.  The  freely 
restored  paintings  by  Rosso^  Frimaticcio,  and  Niccolo  deW  Abbate  at 
Fontainebleau  (School  of  Fontainebleau)  reveal,  it  may  be,  a  strong 
sense  of  decorative  effect,  but  in  the  details  they  are  steeped  in  af- 
fectation. The  Frenchman  Jean  Cousin,  whose  Last  Judgment  in 
the  Louvre  has  been  extolled  beyond  its  merits,  was  really  little 
more  than  a  skilful  master  of  foreshortening.  The  only  really  at- 
tractive painters  of  this  century  are  Jean  Clouet  (d.  ca.  1640)  and 
his  son  Francois  Clouet  (d.  1572),  surnamed  Janet,  and  both  are 
remarkable  for  having  remained  almost  entirely  free  from  Italian 
influence,  manifesting  a  certain  early-French  dryness  in  their  por- 
traits (Biblioth^qne  Nationale,  Louvre,  Chantilly). 

The  fate  of  AjacHiTECTUBB  was  more  fortunate.  The  native  art, 
instead  of  simply  abdicating  in  favour  of  the  foreign  mode,  was  strong 
enough  to  combine  with  it  to  form  a  new  and  distinctive  style.  The 
architectural  styles  under  Francis  I.  and  Henri  II.  have  a  character 
of  their  own.  If  an  error  was  formerly  made  in  ascribing  all  the 
sumptuous  buildings  of  Francis  I.  to  Italian  architects,  such  as  Fra 
Giocondo  and  Boccadoro,  modern  criticism  seems  to  have  overshot 
the  mark  in  denying  these  foreigners  almost  any  share  in  them  Some 
buildings  Indeed,  such  as  Fontainebleau,  seem  now  to  have  been 
definitively  restored  to  native  architects,  but  in  the  case  of  others, 
e.g.  the  H6tel  de  Ville  at  Paris,  it  is  still  uncertain  whether  the 
'maitre  magon*  mentioned  in  the  original  documents  was  not  merely 
the  builder  or  the  successor  of  the  Italian  'architecte\  Among  the 
most  illustrious  names  of  the  French  Renaissance  are  those  of  Pierre 
Lescot  (Louvre,  Mus^e  Oarnavalet),  Fhilibert  de  I'Orme  fChllteau 
d*Anet,  the  portal  of  which  is  now  in  the  court  of  the  Ecole  des 
Beaux- Arts  j  Tuileries),  FierreChambiges  (Fontainebleau  and  StCJer- 
main-en-Laye),  Jean  Bullant  (Chateau  d'Ecouen  j  Chantilly),  and 
the  Ducerceau  family,  headed  by  the  famous  theorist  and  draughts- 
man of  that  name.  Building  was  most  actively  carried  on  in  Ton- 
raine,  where  there  arose  in  rapid  succession  the  chateaux  of  Cham" 
bord,  Chenonceaux,  and  Bids,  with  its  transcendently  beautiful 
staircase.  The  chateau  of  Gaillon  near  Rouen,  now  utterly  demol- 
ished, must  have  been  one  of  the  finest  castles  of  its  time. 
Ecclesiastical  architecture  claims  few  important  works  at  this 
period,  with  the  exception  of  St.  Eustache  at  Faris,  the  church  of 
Gisors,  and  the  noble  choir  of  St.  Pierre  at  Ca^n,  the  masterpiece 
of  Hector  Sohier.  The  H6tel  Bourgth^roulde  at  Rouen  (partly  Gothic) 
and  the  Maison  Francois  Premier  in  Faris  are  conspicuous  examples 
of  domestic  architectuie.    Under  Fiancial.  ti^ftfc^  ol  \Xife  QV.^wa.\x^^ 


FRENCH  ART.  xliU 

architecture  are  still  abundant;  tnrrets  and  corner- pavilions,  lofty 
chimneys,  round  and  elliptical  arches,  all  occur  in  conjunction 
with  columns  and  pilasters.  But  the  style  of  Henri  11.  has  already 
passed  wholly  into  the  region  of  the  classical  orders,  albeit  with  a  few 
modifications  in  the  earlier  French  taste.  A  calm  and  measured 
regularity  has  taken  the  place  of  the  former  gay  fancy. 

The  number  of  Italian  Sculptors  engaged  in  France  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  16th  century  is  almost  larger  than  that  of  the  architects. 
Oirolamo  delta  Robhia  embellished  the  Chateau  de  Madrid  (now 
destroyed)  on  the  confines  of  the  Bois  de  Boulogne ;  Cellini,  who 
sojourned  in  France  in  1537  and  again  in  1540-45,  there  chiselled 
his  great  Nymph  of  Fontainebleau  (now  in  the  Louvre) ;  and  there 
were  others  only  less  famous.  The  three  Juste  (property  Betti) 
were  Florentines,  who  flourished  at  Dol  about  1500  but  afterwards 
succeeded  to  the  inheritance  of  Michel  Colombo  at  Tours.  Their 
chief  work  is  the  tomb  of  Louis  XII.  at  St.  Denis,  with  two  re- 
presentations of  the  deceased  (nude  recumbent  figure  below ;  kneel- 
ing figure  clad  in  ermine  above),  bas-reliefs,  and  allegorical  figures 
at  the  corners.  This  arrangement  was  the  model  for  many  later 
tombs.  But  the  three  greatest  sculptors  of  the  French  Renaissance 
are  Frenchmen  —  Pierre  Bontemps,  Jean  Goujon,  and  Oermain 
Filon.  To  Bontemps,  less  well-known  than  his  contemporaries 
but  certainly  not  inferior  to  them,  is  due  the  exquisite  urn  contain- 
ing the  heart  of  Francis  I.,  and  perhaps  also  the  execution  of 
most  of  the  tomb  of  that  king  at  8t.  Denis,  designed  by  Phil,  de 
rOrme.  No  lover  of  art  will  forget  Goujon's  bas-reliefs  or  his 
charming  nymphs  on  the  Fontaine  des  Innocents  at  Pan's,  whose 
slender  forms  with  their  masterly  drapery  harmonize  so  wonderfully 
with  the  space  allotted  to  them.  His  caryatides  in  the  Louvre  are 
perhaps  the  most  beautiful  works  in  all  modern  art.  The  famous 
*Diana'  in  the  Louvre  is  especially  characteristic  of  his  style  as  well 
as  of  the  taste  of  the  period.  Finally  we  may  mention  the  'gisant' 
on  the  monument  of  Cardinal  de  Brez^  at  Rouen,  as  a  wonderfully 
realistic  youthful  work  by  Goujon.  The  magnificent  counterpart  of 
this  monument  (which  was  executed  by  Jean  Cousin)  is  the  adja- 
cent tomb  of  the  two  Cardinals  d'Amboise ,  the  bewilderingly  rich 
architecture  of  which  was  designed  by  Rolland  Leroux  (1520-25). 
Pilon's  name  is  inseparably  connected  with  the  tomb  of  Henri  II. 
at  St.  Denis,  though  he  was  not  the  only  artist  employed  upon  it. 
The  poignantly  realistic  'gisants',  and  the  powerful  kneeling  bronze 
statues  of  the  royal  pair  are  equally  admirable.  The  kneeling  figure 
of  the  chancellor  Birague  and  the  Dead  Christ  in  the  Louvre  are 
also  full  of  character,  whereas  the  three  Cardinal  Virtues  supporting 
the  nm  with  the  heart  of  Henri  IT.  are  distinctly  inferior  tQ  ^vaiAax. 
figures  by  Goujon. 

Amongst  the  productions  of  industrial  art  at  t'^iis  ^«i\o^  wix  ^\.- 
tentjon  Is  specially  aroused  hy  the  ENAMBiiS  and  t^ie^iw^-E.^^^-  "^"^^ 


xllv  FRENCH  ART. 

art  of  onamelling  entered  upon  a  new  stage  with  the  invention  of 
enamel  painting  and  became  secularized;  i.e.  instead  of  enamelled 
altir-pieces,  paxes,  and  reliquaries  we  find  plates,  vases,  and  oups. 
The  new  Limoges  School  was  founded  by  Monvaerni  and  Nardon  PinL- 
caud  and  reached  its  zenith  under  Leonard  Limwitin,  Pierre  jRey- 
7/ionr/,  and  Jean  Pinicaud  the  Younger,  The  now  growing  inolination 
towards  portraits  in  enamel  and  the  reproduction  of  entire  pictures 
cannot  but  seem  a  mistake,  and  even  the  above-mentioned  masters 
wore  most  successful  when  they  restricted  themselves  to  purely  de- 
corative work.  While  Italian  influence  soon  made  itself  evident 
amongst  the  enamels,  ceramic  art  remained  purely  French.  The 
products  of  Gubbio,  Deruta,  or  Urbino  have  little  in  common  with 
the  elegant  ivory- like  fayence  of  8aint  Porchaire^  or  with  the 
dishes  decorated  with  monsters,  fish,  and  the  like  by  Bernard  PaUsgy 
(d.  1590),  unique  both  as  a  man  and  as  an  artist,  or  with  the  pot- 
tery of  liouen^  Nevers,  or  MouBtiers.  We  now  also  meet  with  ad- 
mirable works  in  the  domains  of  cabinet-making,  goldsmith's  work, 
and  tin  work  (Fr.  Briot;  d.  after  1600),  as  well  as  among  bronzes 
and  medah,  while  the  arts  of  glass-painting  (Pinaigrier  and  Jean 
('ousin;  in  8t.  Gervnis,  8t.  E'ienne-du-Mont ,  etc.)  and  tapestry- 
weaving  show  no  falling  off.  The  Renaissance  nobly  continued  the 
traditions  of  the  Gothic  period  in  investing  even  the  humblest  ob- 
jects with  an  artistic  charm,  and  that  in  a  higher  degree  than  ever 
before. 

The  Reigns  op  Henri  IV.  and  Louis  XIII.  were  not  very  rich  in 
great  works  of  art.  The  ecclesiastical  Abohitbotubb  of  the  period 
is  characterized  by  the  facade  of  8t.  Oervais^  in  which  the  colonnades 
of  different  orders  placed  one  above  the  other  suggest  a  grammatical 
exercise.  Salomon  de  Brosse,  its  builder,  was  also  the  architect 
of  the  Palais  du  Luxembourg,  which  is  imposing  in  spite  of  its 
heaviness.  De  Brosse  was  older  than  the  two  more  celebrated  ar- 
chitects, Jacques  Lemercier,  builder  of  the  Palais  Cardinal  (now  the 
Palais  Royal)  the  church  of  St.  Roch,  and  the  Sorbonne,  and  Afan- 
sart,  who  designed  the  older  portion  of  the  Bibliotheqe  Nationals 
and  the  dome  of  the  Val-de-Grace,  though  his  reputation  is  chiefly 
as  a  builder  of  palaces  (Maisons  near  St.  Germain,  etc.).  Mansart 
was  the  inventor  of  *mansard'  roofs.  The  oldest  parts  of  Paris  now 
existing  owe  their  characteristic  appearance  to  this  period,  from 
which  also  date  a  considerable  number  of  the  older  private  man- 
sions, with  facades  uniformly  rising  from  enclosed  courts  entered 
by  lofty  gateways.  A  characteristic  survival  of  the  period  is  the 
Place  des  Vosges,  which  presents  an  exceedingly  monotonous  effect 
in  spite  of  the  alternation  of  brick  and  stone. 

The  most  influential  Sculptors  were  now  Jean  Bologne  or  Oio^ 

vanni  Bologna  (b.  at  Douai;   d.  1608)  and  his  pupils  (Franche^ 

vi'/^e,  De  Vries,   Duquesnoy,  Van  Opstal)^  all  of  whom  were  com- 

pletely  Italianized.    A  more  individual  aiv^  %.  uvqt^  ^iwit\i  at^le 


FRENCH  ART.  xlv 

was  shown  by  BartMlemy  PrtVur  (d.  1614  ;  Montmorency  monument 
in  the  Louvre)  and  by  Pierre  Biard  (d.  1609),  to  whom  we  find  a 
difficulty  in  attributing  two  such  different  works  as  the  elegant 
Tood-loft  in  St.  Etienne-du-Mont  and  the  energetically  realistic 
Goddess  of  Fame  in  the  Louvre.  In  the  succeeding  generation  these 
were  followed  by  Simon  Ouillain  (d.  1658;  bronze  statues  from  the 
Pont  au  Change,  in  the  LonvTe),  Jacques Sarra%in(d.  1660;  caryatides 
in  the  Louvre),  QilUsOuirirh  (a.l678),  and  finally,  and  above  all,  the 
brothers  FranQoit  and  Michel  Anguier  (d.  1669  and  1686).  The  chief 
works  of  Francois,  which  vary  in  excellence,  are  his  numerous  tombs 
(e.gf.  those  of  De  Thou  and  Longueville  in  the  Louvre);  Michel's 
best  work  is  now  to  be  seen  in  the  external  and  internal  embellish- 
ment of  the  Val-de-Grace  (the  Nativity  is  now  in  St.  Roch)  and  in 
the  sculptures  on  the  Porte  St.  Denis.  Almost  all  the  sculptors  of 
th3  'SiScle  Louis  XIV.'  studied  the  works  of  these  sculptors,  who 
themselves  saw  the  beginning  of  that  age. 

Practically  only  one  of  the  Coubt  Painters  of  this  time  has  re- 
tained his  fame  through  the  succeeding  renturies,  viz.  SimonVouet 
(d.  1649),  who  formed  himself  in  Italy  on  Paolo  Veronese  and 
Guido  Reni.  The  scanty  remains  of  Vouet's  decorative  painting  re- 
veal a  love  of  bold  colour  and  considerable  skill  in  dealing  with  large 
surfaces,  but  his  religious  easel-pictures  are  for  us  devoid  of  all  at- 
traction. KicolaB  PouBsin  (1594-1665)  and  Claude  Lorrain  (1600- 
1682),  the  two  greatest  painters,  worked  in  Rome,  far  from  France 
and  the  French  court.  It  is  not  easy  to  mete  out  justice  to  the  works 
of  Poussin,  at  one  time  extravagantly  over-praised  and  now  fre- 
quently under-estimated.  The  elegant  expression  of  a  high-bred 
sentiment  was  his  chief  aim,  and  in  contrast  to  the  superficiality 
of  most  of  his  contemporaries,  this  effort  is  doubly  gratefal.  But 
his  religious  pictures  seem  cold  to  us,  owing  to  his  frequent  borrow- 
ings from  the  antique  and  the  Renaissance,  and  the  over-elabor- 
ation of  his  composition ,  in  which  we  might  almost  inscribe 
geometrical  figures.  His  landscapes,  such  as  the  ^Orpheus',  the 
'Diogenes',  and  the 'Seasons',  are  more  inspiring,  though  their  colour- 
ing has  unfortunately  faded.  Claude  Lorrain's  scene- paintings  are 
as  indifferent  to  us  to-day  as  his  petty  mythological  figures.  But 
he  depicted  atmospheric  phenomena  with  a  boldness,  and  blended 
local  colours  into  a  general  tone  with  a  skill,  that  had  no  rivals  un- 
til the  days  of  Tarner  and  Corot.  The  modern  cry  for  'atmosphere 
and  light'  is  here  clearly  uttered  for  the  first  time.  The  works  of 
Enstaohe  Le  Sueur  (1617-55),  the  'French  Raphael',  appeal  to  us  as 
more  essentially  religious  than  Poussin's.  A  deep  and  true  piety 
breathes  from  the  'Life  of  St.  Bruno'.  The  age  of  the  wars  of  religion 
was  also  the  age  of  Francois  de  Sales,  the  apostle  of  love,  and  of  Vin- 
cent de  Paul,  the  friend  of  the  sick  and  the  poor.  "W^tx^vj  ^«\K^«:t'b 
the  too  sentimental  paintings  of  Le  Sueui  vvil^i  t\vft  nK^viov^s*^^'^^ 
oiPhilippede  ^>«/jr;w/7aj2iw<? (of  Brussels,  160*1-1 4^, ^^^o^**^^^^^^"^^  j 

\ 


xlvi  FRENCH  ART. 

with  the  convent  at  Port  Royal.  The  latter  is,  however,  more 
attractive  as  a  portrait-painter. 

It  is  difflonlt  to  select  the  right  standpoint  to  view  the  A&t  of 
Louis  XIV.  After  the  king's  assumption  of  the  reins  of  government 
(1661),  a  thoroughly  monarchic  art  begins.  Opposition  to  all  inde- 
pendent efforts,  and  an  abrupt  hostility  to  everything  foreign  and 
even  to  the  mass  of  the  people  at  home  distinguish  this  'golden  age'. 
The  'Roi  Soleil'  is  a  Roman  Imperator,  the  heroes  of  the  tragedies 
are  Romans,  art  also  must  be  Roman.  The  'Acad^mie'  founded  in 
1648  developed  in  sharpest  contrast  with  the  'mattrises*,  or  old 
guilds.  Everything  was  reduced  to  formulae.  But  this  cold  and 
pompous  art  had  some  thing  grand  in  its  uniformity,  its  self-con- 
fidence, and  its  deflniteness  of  aim ;  and  the  effect  was  heightened 
not  only  by  the  personalities  of  the  king  and  his  minister  Colbert, 
but  still  more  by  the  art-dictatorship  of  CharleB  Le  Bnm  (1619-90). 
However  unmoved  Le  Brun's  paintings  may  leave  us,  there  is 
something  singularly  imposing,  almost  recalling  the  universal 
geniuses  of  the  Renaissance,  in  the  manner  in  which  he  designed 
the  magnificent  decorations  of  the  Galerie  des  Glaces  at  Yersailleg 
and  the  Galerie  d'Apollon  in  the  Louvre,  sketched  groups  in  bronze 
and  marble  for  the  sculptors,  and  painted  and  drew  patterns  for  his 
Manufacture  des  Gobelins,  which  then  included  nearly  every  branch 
of  industrial  art.  The  bronzes  by  CoyzevoXj  the  cabinets  by  BouUe, 
the  mirrors  by  Cucci,  the  arabesques  by  BSrain  all  harmonize 
with  Le  Brun's  ceiling-paintings,  just  as  these  harmonize  with  the 
buildings  of  Mansart  and  the  gardens  of  Le  Notre,  and  as  the  entire 
creative  art  of  the  period  harmonizes  with  the  tragedies  of  Racine. 
Art  as  a  whole  must  be  regarded  as  a  setting  for  the  court  of 
Louis  XIV.,  but  it  is  a  decorative  art  of  the  very  highest  rank. 

The  Aechitbctubb  of  the  period  is  much  less  satisfactory. 
Perrault's  famous  colonnade  at  the  Louvre  now  excites  as  little 
enthusiasm  as  the  fatiguing  facade  of  the  palace  at  Versailles  by 
Hardouin  and  Mansart  (1645-1709)  or  as  the  Palais  des  Invalides  by 
Bruant.  The  great  dome  of  the  Invalides  by  Mansart  and  that  of 
the  Val-de-Grace,  now  at  last  completed,  are,  however,  honourable 
exceptions  to  the  rule.  With  Painting  it  is  much  the  same.  Who 
now  cares  for  La  Fosse^  Jouvenet^  or  Coypel?  The  portrait-painters 
Mignard ,  LargilUlre ,  and  Bigaud  —  all  admirably  represented  at 
the  Louvre  —  are,  however,  still  interesting.  Sculpture  occupies 
a  much  higher  position.  However  absurd  Voltaire's  dictum  may 
now  appear,  that  rran90i8  Oirardon  (1628-1715)  had  ^attained  to 
all  the  perfection  of  the  antique',  we  cannot  refuse  our  admiration 
to  that  sculptor's  tomb  of  Richelieu  (in  the  church  of  the  Sor- 
bonne),  his  'Rape  of  Proserpine'  and  statues  of  rivers,  and  above 
all  to  his  charming  leaden  relief  of  'Diana  at  the  bath',  in  the  park 
of  Versailles.  With  him  may  be  named  a  crowd  of  others:  LegroSy 
Ze  ffongre,  the  two  Marsy^  i)csjaTdin8,  Lepaulxe,  Van  CU-^e.^  TJMb"^.^ 


FRENCH  AET.  xlvU 

Thiodon ,  Mazeline ,  and  EurtrelU,  A  more  important  name  than 
Girardon's  is  that  of  Charles  Antoine  Coyzevoz  (1640-1720).  His 
most  prominent  works  are  his  large  tomhs,  especially  those  of  Cardinal 
Mazarin  (now  in  the  Louvre)  and  Colhert  (in  St.  Eustache) ;  but 
his  other  works  merit  close  inspection  for  their  masterly  treatment 
and  their  union  of  charm  and  elegance  of  conception.  Among  these 
may  be  mentioned  the  horses  in  the  Place  de^la  Concorde,  the  bronze 
statue  of  Louis  XIV.  (Mus^eCarnavalet),  the  *Nymph  with  the  shell', 
and  numerous  busts  (in  the  Louvre).  Nicolas  and  Guillanme  Goustou 
(1658-1733  and  1677-1746),  his  pupils,  who  assisted  him  in  the 
execution  of  the  *Vow  of  Louis  Xlll.'  in  Notre  Dame,  belong  partly 
to  the  following  epoch.  Among  the  chief  works  of  Nicolas  Coustou 
rank  the  figures  of  the  Rh6ne  and  Sa6ne  at  the  Tuileries  and  the 
Caesar  in  the  Louvre ;  among  those  of  GulUaume  are  the  admirable 
Marly  horses  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  and  the  tomb  of  Cardinal 
Dubois  in  St.  Roch.  Of  the  sculptors  of  the  17th  century,  however, 
the  French  themselves  think  most  highly  of  Pierre  Puget  (1622-94), 
who  studied  under  Bernini  and  worked  at  Toulon.  His  compositions, 
notably  the  *Milo  of  Croton'  in  the  Louvre ,  produce  a  strong  im- 
pression, in  spite  of  their  exaggerated  pathos. 

The  reaction  against  this  stiff  and  grandiose  art  was  not  long  of 
coming.  Louis  XIV.  was  succeeded  by  Louis  XV.,  the  pious  Mme. 
de  Maintenon  was  followed  by  the  dissipated  Regent  and  a  little  later 
by  Mme.  de  Pompadour.  We  may  date  the  prevalence  of  the  art  called 
by  the  French  'Dix-Huitiemb',  from  the  beginning  of  the  Regency 
(1716)  to  the  death  of  the  Pompadour  (1764).  It  was  a  super- 
ficial, gallant,  and  dissipated  art ,  the  charm  of  which ,  however, 
cannot  be  denied.  It  is  the  faithful  reflection  of  the  age.  Everything 
harmonizes:  the  gorgeous  but  comfortable  apartments,  in  the  decorat- 
ion of  which  Oppenordt  and  Meissonier  excelled ;  the  charming  villas 
for  gallant  rendezvous ;  the  pale  blue,  sea-green,  and  rose-pink  paint- 
ing; the  cabinets  with  their  rich  bronze  ornaments;  the  chairs  and 
sofas,  with  their  gilt  carvings  and  luxurious  silken  upholstery ;  the 
terracottas  and  the  porcelain  statuettes  from  the  factory  at  Sevres ; 
and  indeed  even  the  costumes  of  the  pleasure-loving,  immoral, 
yet  charming  society,  with  its  powder  and  patches.  Everything 
that  was  formerly  straight  is  now  bent  in  the  most  wanton  manner 
and  embellished  with  all  manner  of  flourishes  and  scrolls  {^rococo' 
from  rocaUle,  shell) ;  every  door-knob  seems  to  be  designed  for  the 
pressure  of  a  delicate  feminine  hand.  After  a  brief  reign  (for  as 
early  as  1763  Grimm  writes  that  everything  was  then  made  *a  la 
grecque')  the  rococo  style  gave  place  to  the  Style  Louis  XVI., 
which  in  France  at  least  always  retained  delicate  and  graceful 
forms.  The  cabinets  of  this  period  (by  Oeben^  12ic8CucT\Beu«,w,at>.^ 
and  others),  decorated  with  the  daintiest  inlaid  ^fe«v^T\^  ^  ^t^\i«^ 
almost  more  highly  prized  than  the  earlier  ^oi^a  \>^  CteaaaixX  «».^ 


xlviu  FRENCH  ART. 

The  earliest  and  also  the  greatest  painter  of  the  'Dix-HaitlSme'  is 
Antoine  Watteaa  (1684-1722),  who  came  to  Paris  in  his  eighteenth 
year  to  assist  in  the  decoration  of  the  Opera  House  and  speedily 
rose  to  fame  by  his  representations  of  ^ Fetes  Oatantes\  In  his  scenes 
of  rural  festivals  and  in  his  figures  from  Italian  comedy  (^Embark- 
ation for  Cythera';  *Gilles'j  both  in  the  Louvre)  this  master  is 
unapproached.  In  both ,  he  is  the  faithful  mirror  of  his  age ,  but 
his  magical  colouring  sheds  such  a  poetic  glamour,  that  we  seem  to 
be  transported  into  a  fairyland  full  of  roguish  grace  and  pleasant 
dalliance.  His  successors,  Lancret  and  Pater,  are  skilful  and  charm- 
ing artists ,  but  are  seldom  inspired  by  even  a  breath  of  the  poetry 
of  Watteau.  The  truest  representative  of  the  Pompadour  epoch  is 
Francois  Bencher  (1703-70).  A  study  of  his  numerous  pictures  In 
the  Louvre  Is  not  enough  for  a  proper  estimation  of  this  artist,  for 
it  is  chiefly  as  a  decorative  painter,  in  his  ceilings  and  panels,  that 
he  reveals  his  character.  Next  to  Boucher  rank  ^Frago^  (Honori 
Fragonard)  and  Baudouin,  whose  drawings  especially  are  prized. 
The  18th  century  was  rich  in  portrait-painters  also,  the  first  place 
being  claimed  by  the  pastel  painter  Quentin  de  La  Tour  (1704-88), 
'the  magician',  as  Diderot  calls  him.  The  strikingly  lifelike  and 
characteristic  portraits  by  this  master  are  the  chief  boast  of  the 
mus^e  of  St.  Quentin,  his  native  town ;  while  the  charmingly  grace- 
ful female  portraits  by  Nattier  are  among  the  attractions  of  Versailles. 

Here  also  reaction  set  in  early.  Boucher  himself  lived  to  hear 
the  thundering  philippic  of  Diderot,  who  re-christened  the  'painter 
of  the  graces'  as  the  'painter  of  demireps'.  But  this  verdict  was 
moral,  not  aesthetic.  Einotionalism  was  simply  the  transition  ttom 
frivolity  to  the  Spartan  virtue  of  the  Revolution.  Diderot  had  found 
a  man  after  his  own  heart  in  Jean  Baptiste  Oreuze  (1726-1805), 
whose  'Rustic  Bride'  and  'Prodigal  Son'  practically  synchronized 
with  Diderot's  'Natural  Son'  and  Rousseau's  'Heloise'.  Greuze  re- 
mains to  this  day  a  popular  favourite,  not,  however,  on  account  of 
these  moral  pictures  with  their  hard  colouring,  but  on  account  of 
his  paintings  of  girls  ('The  Broken  Pitcher'  j  the  'Milkmaid',  etc.), 
in  whose  grace  there  are  still  traces  of  the  sensuous  charm  of  the 
preceding  epoch.  More  important  as  a  painter  is  Greuze's  elder 
contemporary  Jean  Baptiste  Simeon  Ghardin  (1699-1779),  one  of 
the  best  painters  of  still-life  that  ever  lived,  an  excellent  portrait- 
painter,  and  an  acute,  amiable,  and  original  observer  of  simple 
domestic  scenes  ('Grace  before  Meat';  the  'Industrious  Mother^  *etc.} 
in  the  Louvre).  The  true  forerunners  of  the  later  classicism  were, 
however,  at  this  period  Vien,  the  teacher  of  David,  Cochin,  and 
Hubert  Robert,    with  his  views  of  Roman  ruins. 

The  rococo  style  never  thoroughly  permeated  the  art  of  Soulp- 

TUBB.    Allegrain,  with  his  nymphs,  and  Clodion,  with  his  sensuously 

animated  terracotta  groups  of  Bacchantes,  Satyrs,  and  Cupids,  touch 

upon  its  outakirta  in  the  soft  grace  and.  ^moi^^v^eix^"  QlVXi«VtT&ftk^<id8 


FRENGH  ART.  xlix 

of  treatment;  but  side  by  side  with  them  stand  such  artists  as 
Bouchardon,  the  *Frenoh  Phidias',  with  his  Grenelle  Fountain, 
which  may  almost  be  termed  seyeie.  PigalU  (1714-86)  pays  un- 
restrained homage  to  the  pictorial  taste  of  the  period  in  the  tombs  of 
Marshal  Saxe  (Strassburgj  and  the  Gomte  d'Harcoart  (Notre  Dame), 
as  well  as  in  the  monument  of  Lonis  XY.  at  Rheims,  but  he  also 
expresses  its  philosophical  ideas  in  his  allegorical  compositions,  and 
makes  his  bow  to  the  antique  in  the  nude  statue  of  Voltaire.  The 
amiable  Pajou  (1730-1809)  vacillates  between  antique  severity  and 
French  grace,  between  frivolity  and  sentiment,  in  his  Pluto,  Bac- 
chante, and  statue  of  Queen  Maria  Lesczynska  as  Garitas  (in  the 
Louvre).  A  similar  vacillation  is  shown  by  Falconet ^  who  may  be 
better  studied  in  St.  Petersburg  than  in  Paris.  Lemoyne  (Louvre, 
Versailles)  and  Caffien  (d.  1792;  busts  of  Rotrou,  La  Ghauss^e, 
J.  B.  Rousseau,  etc.)  are  admirable  portrait-sculptors,  but  both  are 
far  excelled  by  Jean  Antoine  Houdon  (1741-1828),  whose  seated 
statue  of  Voltaire  is  one  of  the  masterpieces  of  realistic  portraiture, 
and  whose  'Diana'  (bronze  replica  in  the  Louvre  of  the  original 
marble  in  St.  Petersburg)  is  among  the  most  perfect  nude  figures 
in  modem  art. 

The  transition  to  classicism  was  most  easily  accomplished  in 
Abohitbctubb.  To  be  oonvinced  that  at  least  in  the  case  of  great 
religious  and  secular  edifices  the  frivolous  fashionable  taste  was  left 
far  behind ,  we  need  glance  only  at  the  fa^de  of  St.  Sulpice  by 
Servandoni  (1733)  ,  the  portal  of  St.  Eustache  by  Mansart  de  Jouy 
(1765),  theEcoleMilitaire  (1756),  the  buUdings  on  the  Place  de  la 
Concorde  by  Oabriel  (1772) ,  and  the  Pantheon,  begun  by  Soufflot 
in  1764.  The  writings  of  the  Jesuit  Langier  (1753) ,  the  architect 
Blondel  (1756),  and  the  archsBologists  Mariette  and  Gaylus,  and 
finally  and  above  all  the  excavations  at  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum 
and  the  reports  of  visitors  to  these  spots,  speedily  assisted  the 
classical  tendency  to  gain  a  decided  victory. 

Thus  the  appearance  of  Jacques  Louis  David  (1748-1825)  does 
not  signalize  a  complete  revolution,  as  was  at  one  time  assumed,  but 
the  close  of  a  decade  of  development  ('Belisarius*,  1781  j  'Oath  of 
the  Horatii^  1785).   His  significance  lies  in  the  fact  that  he  deduced 
the  logical  consequences  and  elevated  them  with  adamantine  strict- 
ness into  a  law  of  universal  application.  Individuality  was  once  more 
repressed ,  and  all  art  once  more  reduced  to  a  formula.    The  fruits 
oi  this  new  Renaissance  are  before  us  everywhere  to  this  day.   Even 
the  most  famous  pictures  (David's  'Leonidas'  and  ^Rape  of  the  Sabines') 
look  like  painted  copies  of  bas-reliefs.  The  artist  is  in  touch  with  us 
only  when  he  is  unfaithful  to  his  own  principles,  as  in  the  ^Goronation 
of  Napoleon'  (Louvre),  the  sketch  of  *Marat  after  death'  (Gativvi^^\>i^ 
and  his  lifelike  portraits.   It  is  the  same  with  tYi^  wcAAXfeCtoii^  ^l\Xv» 
Bevolution  and  the  Empire,    'The  Arc  de  Tiiom^V©  ^xi  C»ftrt^x«»^  ^ 
Bays  Baint-Panl,   'is  a  copy  of  the  arch  ol  SeptlnAua  ^^^«t^^  >  ^^ 
Bamdekmm.  Paris,  iith  Edit.  ^ 


1  FRENCH  ART. 

Yenddme  Colamn  is  a  reproduction  of  Trajan's  Column ,  and  the 
Madeleine  is  a  temple  which  might  he  dedicated  without  alteration 
to  Jupiter  Capitolinus'.  Grace  as  such  seemed  to  he  hanished  from 
art.  Oreuze  and  Clodion  died  in  penary,  and  Fragouard  spent  hit 
last  days  in  painting  large  allegorical  and  decoratiTe  pieces. 

At  first  glance  the  Ninetbekth  Gbntubt  presents  the  appearance 
of  a  veritable  chaos.  In  previous  times  the  architect  either  adapted 
the  prevailing  style  to  the  altered  circumstances  or  developed  a 
new  one  from  it.  Now ,  however ,  he  builds  in  the  Greek  style  to- 
day y  in  the  Renaissance  to-morrow ,  or  passes  unconcernedly  from 
Gothic  to  baroque.  In  the  same  way  the  painter  imitates  the  Greeks 
or  the  Italians,  Rubens  or  Rembrandt,  the  Pre-Raphaelites  or  the 
Japanese.  In  the  realm  of  sculpture  we  find  ourselves  at  one  time 
face  to  face  with  the  most  exalted  idealism ,  at  another  with  the 
most  uncompromising  realism.  Our  judgment,  too,  is  rendered  all 
the  more  difficult  because  many  of  the  artists  still  stand  so  near  ns 
jLn  point  of  time ,  that  we  cannot  wholly  free  ourselves  from  the 
influence  of  personal  inclinations  or  antipathies. 

In  the  llrt^t  quarter  of  the  oentury  the  controlling  influence  in 
the  sphere  of  Painting  was  that  of  David.  In  the  year  1800  ChUrin 
(d.  Ib33),  the  most  thorough-going  pupil  of  David,  attained  an  extra- 
ordinary success  with  hU  *Marcus  Sr'Xtus'.  Afterwards  he  devoted 
himself  mainly  to  the  painting  of  tragic  scenes.  Oirodet  (d.  1  ^24*),  it  is 
true,  selected  romantic  subjects  (tbe  ^Deluge",  ^Burial  of  Atala*),  but 
adhered  to  the  relief-1  ke  execution  and  statuesque  repose  of  his 
master.  Qirard  (d.  1637),  who  appeals  to  us  mainly  by  his  attrartlve 
portraits  of  women,  is  somewhat  freer  in  style.  Uis  *Cupid  and 
Psyche*  naturally  excited  universal  admiration  in  a  generation  for 
whom  Ganova*8  group  of  the  same  subject  was  the  highest  expression 
of  art.  Gros  (d.  1835]  passes  for  a  forerunner  of  romanticism;  hut 
the  warmer  colouring  and  livelier  movement  of  his  battle-scenes  do 
not  blind  us  to  his  numerous  weaknesses.  An  except  onal  position 
is  occupied  by  Prudhon  (d.  1823) ,  who ,  in  his  charming  ^Psyche* 
and  his  dramatic  ^Revenge  and  J artice*,  produced  a  novel  and  pleas- 
ing effect  by  combining  the  artistic  traditions  of  the  18th  century 
with  suggestions  borrowed  from  Correggio. 

The  first  great  innovator,  the  first  romanticist  properly  so  called, 
was  ThSodnre  Oericault  (1791-1824) ,  whose  paintings  of  soldiers 
and  horses  announce,  still  more  clearly  than  his  *Raft  of  the  Me- 
dusa*, the  dawning  of  a  new  conception.  There  is  practically  no 
sense  in  the  expression  'Romantic  Schoor  unless  we  translate 
'romanticism'  as  meaning  simply  ^love  of  liberty'.  A  better  appel- 
lation is  School  of  1830.  The  one  common  bond  among  the  masters 
of  this  period,  many  of  whom  carried  on  violent  feuds  with  each 
other,  was  their  passion  for  independence.  With  few  exceptions, 
however,  they  sought  for  freedom  In. form  and  colour  only;  they 
did  not  dare  to  toke  their  subjects  tiom  xVe  \M«  «i^uxL^^^i^\i!ift 


FRENCH  ABT.  li 

foun^  them  in  the  history  and  legend  of  the  middle  ages,  in  the 
pages  of  the  poets  (Dante,  Tasso,  Shakespeare,  Goethe,  Byron), 
or  in  the  scenes  of  the  distant  Orient.  Raphael  was  the  model  for 
one  set,  Rubens  and  Veronese  for  another. 

Sngtoe  Delaeroiz  (1798-1863)  and  Jean  Auguite  Dominique 
Ingres  (1780-1867)  are  not  only  the  two  greatest  masters  of  this 
period  bnt  also  repiesent  its  opposite  poles.  For  Delacroix  every 
picture  assumed  the  form  of  a  brilliant  symphony  of  colours,  so  that 
his  enemies  asserted  that  he  painted  with  ^an  intoxicated  broom* ; 
Ingres,  on  the  contrary,  considered  that  the  'integrity  of  art*  depended 
upon  the  drawing.  While  the  former  honoured  Rubens  above  all 
other  masters,  the  latter  saw  in  the  great  Fleming  ^something  of  a 
butcher'  and  held  it  blasphemy  to  compare  Rembrandt  with  Raphael. 
The  eternal  antithesis  between  colouring  and  drawing  was,  perhaps, 
never  so  forcibly  emphasized  as  now.  Our  taste  has  deciled  the 
controversy  in  favour  of  Delacroix.  We  feel  keen  admiration  for  the 
vigOTons  colouring  of  *Dante*s  Boat*  (1822),  the  ^Massacre  of  Chios', 
the  'Barricade',  and  the  ^Crusaders',  and  count  the  paintings  of  the 
Palais  Bourbon  and  St.  Sulplce  as  among  the  greatest  monumental 
works  of  the  century.  The  *  Apothesis  of  Homer*,  on  the  other  hand, 
leaves  us  cold  in  spite  of  its  admirable  drawing;  the  beautifu)  flgUres 
of  'Oidipus'  and  'The  Source*  excite  but  a  half-hearted  admiration; 
and  it  is  only  in  his  portraits  that  Ingres  makes  any  strong  impression 
on  us.  Perhaps,  however,  the  time  will  come  when  this  master  will 
be  again  accorded  a  more  prominent  place. 

The  fame  of  Horace  Vemtt  (d.  1863),  Paul  Delaroche  (d.  1856), 
Deviria  (d.  1865),  Couture  (d.  1879),  and  the  other  historioal 
painters  of  the  period  has  paled  very  considerably.  The  recon- 
struction of  a  historical  scene,  suoh  as  the  'Death  of  Elizabeth*  or 
'Raphael  in  the  Vatican*,  can  satisfy  us  only  when  the  immediate 
effect  causes  the  artificiality  of  the  process  to  be  forgotten ;  bnt  none 
of  these  masters  had  the  strength  to  accomplish  this.  The  longest 
life  will  doubtless  belong  to  Vernet*s  pictures  of  contemporary  history 
at  Versailles.  Among  other  masters  of  the  period  may  be  men- 
tioned the  somewhat  sentimental  Ary  Scheffer  (d..  iSbS) ;  Liopold 
Robert  (d.  1835),  who  died  prematurely  but  not  before  he  had 
received  universal  admiration  for  his  cheerful  but  rather  too  spick- 
and-span  scenes  of  Italian  life  *,  Decamps  (d.  1860),  who  painted 
glowing  pictures  of  Oriental  life  and  found  excellent  followers  in 
Fromentin,  Marilhat,  and  others;  and  Chenavard  (d.  1880),  the 
author  of  the  philosophical  cartoons  in  the  Picture  Gallery  of  Lyons. 
A  special  meed  of  honour  must  be  paid  to  Hippolyte  Flandrin  (d. 
1864),  a  pupil  of  Ingres  and  perhaps  the  only  religious  painter  of 
modem  times  whose  works  reveal  a  genuinely  pious  a^\T\.^, 

Contemporaneously  with  this  development  tYieiei%.x^^^\a.^"i«^^^ 
a  new  eonoeption  of  landscape  painting,  the  ao-ciiW^^^^:*^^^^^*'^ 
The  aim  was  to  reprodnco  the  play  ot  U^^V^t  mA  ^^  ^'^'°^^* 


lii  ^  FRENCH  ART. 

spheric  effects  of  the  fondly  noted,  though  often  simple  motiTes  of 
one's  native  land.  Theodore  Rousteau  (d.  1867)  is  par  excellence  the 
gieat  painter  of  trees ;  Jules  Dupri  (d.  1889)  depicted  nature  in  her 
stormy  moods ;  Charles  Dauhigny  (d.  1878)  loved  to  paint  the  peAce- 
ful  hanks  of  the  Oise;  Narcisse  Diaz  (d.  1876)  revelled  in  rustling 
forest  glades  threaded  by  glittering  beams  of  sunlight.  The  greatest 
poet  of  this  group,  generally  known  as  the  Sohool  of  Barbisok, 
is  Jean  Baptiste  Gorot  (d.  1875).  No  other  painter  either  before 
or  since  has  regarded  nature  with  such  an  intimate  and  geniid  gaze. 
In  his  pictures  the  meadows  rnstle,  the  birds  twitter,  the  bees 
hum,  and  the  sunbeams  glance  and  play.  Lovely  nymphs  dance  in 
morning  dew  to  the  music  of  soft-breathing  flutes.  Other  members 
of  the  Barbison  group  are  Constant  Troyon  (d.  1866) ,  vying  witk 
Rosa  Bonheur  (d.  1899)  as  the  greatest  of  the  French  animal-paint- 
ers, and  Jean  Francois  Millet  (d.  1875),  the  vigorous  painter  of 
peasant-life,  who  incarnates  so  powerfully  the  spirit  of  the  text  4n 
the  sweat  of  thy  face  shalt  thou  eat  bread'. 

Under  the  Second  Empire  a  number  of  new  tendencies  made 
themselves  felt.  The  historical  painters,  such  as  Sylvettre  and  La- 
minais,  tickled  the  jaded  palates  of  their  contemporaries  with  scenes 
of  horror  like  *Nero  and  Locusta'.  Hamon^  OSrdme,  and  the  other 
'Neo-Greeks'  painted  genre-scenes  in  antique  costume ,  whidi  al- 
lowed them  to  display  their  masterly  treatment  of  the  node. 
Cabanel  (d.  1889) ,  the  more  talented  Baudry  (d.  1886 ;  decoration 
of  the  Opera  House)  and  Delaunay  (d.  1891),  and  the  still  living 
Henner  and  Leftbvte  sought  for  fame  in  the  most  finished  portrayal 
of  the  female  form  divine.  Contemporary  military  life  was  illustrated 
by  De  NtuvilU  (d.  1885)  and  Regnault^  the  latter  of  whom  fell  in 
the  Franco-German  war  (1871).  The  great  popular  favourites  were, 
however,  Ernest  MeUsonier  (1813-91)  and  Alfred  Stevens  (born  1828) 
of  Belgium ,  two  painters  of  the  fine  and  minute  who  can  be  oon- 
ildently  ranked  with  the  Dutch  masters  of  the  17th  century.  The 
former  loved  to  depict  the  heroes  of  his  tiny  canvases  in  the  more 
brilliant  costume  of  by-gone  days ;  the  latter  gave  a  faithful  picture 
of  the  dress  and  manners  of  the  fashionable  women  of  his  own  time. 
An  important  event  for  the  development  of  art  in  the  following 
period  was  the  appearance  of  Gustave  Goorbet  (1819-77),  who 
revealed  an  extraordinary  power  of  realism  in  his  'Burial  of  Omans* 
and  other  scenes  of  common  life,  as  well  as  pre-eminent  colonristie 
talents  in  his  great  ^Studio',  but  who  nevertheless  did  not  possess 
one  spark  of  poetry. 

Between  1870  and  1890  four  artists  are  specially  prominent: 

Edouard  Manet  (1833-83),  Jules  Bastien- Lepage  (1848-84),  Pierrt 

Fuvis  de   Chavannes  (1824-98),   and  Gustave  Moreau  (1826-^). 

Manet  made  a  skilful  combination  of  what  he  learned  from  Telaz- 

guez  and  from  the  Japanese,  and  in  Ms  vlgoious  portraits  end 

sJretchea  of  Paris  life  became  the  most  z.e8\o\i^  ^x^Va^^^i^X  ^^Sut 


FBENOH  ART.  lill 

impreBsionist  school,  wMch  exerted  a  deep  and  tteneflcial  inflaence 
in  spite,  of  it«  abeirations.  Bastien- Lepage  applied  the  pdn- 
ciplea  of  impressionism  to  his  powerful  pictures  of  peasant-life. 
FuyIs  de  Chavannes  adopted  the  colouring  of  the  primitive  Italians 
and  represented  an  ideal  humanity  in  a  series  of  solemn  and  broadly 
conceived  mural  paintings  (Sorbonne,  Pantheon,  Amiens ,  Rouen, 
Poitiers,  Lyons,  Marseilles).  Moreau  presented  mystic  legends  in 
a  style  of  which  thie  delicate  colouring  glows  like  a  jewel  (Mus^e 
Moreau,  Luxembourg). 

A  survey  of  the  multiform  activity  of  the  Paintino  op  To-Day 
may  be  obtained  in  the  course  of  visits  to  the  H6tel  de  Yille,  the 
Sorbonne,  the  Mairies,  the  Luxembourg,  the  annual  Salons,  and  the 
smaller  exhibitions.  Here  we  give  only  a  few  hints.  The  academic, 
school,  which  seeks  its  end  mainly  by  a  conscientious  study  of  form, 
is  represented  by  Laurens  (historical  paintings!,  Deiaille  (battle- 
pieces),  Comum  (frescoes  in  tiie  Jardin  des  Plantes),  Bonnat^  Carolua- 
Dttf an,  Humbert^  Benjamin-Constant^  and  others.  In  the  sharpest 
contrast  to  these  stand  the  impressionists  DegcUj  Monet^  Pissarro^ 
JSenoir,  Raffdellif  and  their  friends,  whose  aim  is  to  reproduce  a 
momentary  effect  (Salle  Gaillebotte  at  the  Luxembourg,  Galerie 
Durand-Ruel).  O^er  representatives  of  impressionism  are  Roll, 
Qervex,  Rochegrosse,  and  the  brilliant  colourist  Besnard  (Ecole  de 
Pharmacie).  Cazin,  BiUottCy  Pointelin,  Menard^  and  others  devote 
themselves  to  producing  melancholy  twilight  landscapes.  Jules 
Breton  and  Lkermiiie  are  attractive  delineators  of  rural  Ufe.  Dagnan- 
Bouverei  and  the  younger  masters,  Cottet,  Simony  and  Weryj  depict 
the  picturesque  scenes  of  Brittany.  Symbolism  has  also  found 
numerous  disciples  among  the  younger  generation. 

To  go  into  the  matter  of  the  Graphic  Abts  would  take  us  too 
far  afield.  Be  it  enough  to  chronicle  that  recent  activity  in  this 
sphere  has  been  both  great  and  successful ,  not  only  in  engraving 
(^QaiUardj  Waltner,  Patricot,  etc.),  which  reproduces  the  ideas  of 
others,  but  still  more  notably  in  the  original  arts  of  etching  in  black 
and  white  or  in  colours  (Bracquemondj  F,  Raps ,  Legrand,  Lephre, 
Legros,  Tissot,  Raffatlli)  and  lithography  (Fantin-Latour,  Carrihre  ; 
the  posters  of  Chiret), 

The  SouLPTUBB  of  the  19th  cent,  runs ,  on  the  whole,  a  course 
parallel  with  that  of  painting.    Here  also  the  antique  style  was  at 
first  all-powerful.  Canova,  who  made  many  visits  to  Paris,  was  the 
master  whom  all  admired  and  imitated.  Few  sculptors  attained 
anything  higher  than  a  frosty  correctness.   We  may  name  Chaudet 
(d.  1810;  'Paul  and  Virginia',  in  the  Louvre),  Lemot  (d.  1827; 
Henri  IV.  on  the  Pont  Neuf),  Dupaty  (d.  1825;  'Death  of  Biblis', 
in  the  Louvre),  the  exuberantly  fertile  Bosio  (d.  ISiS'J  .j  axvd.  Cot\.c>\. 
(d.  1843  f  *The  Messenger  of  Marathon').    To  Wic^  ^.t^^eiaV't.  %Osl^^^^ 
also  belongs  the  onee  very  popular  James  PtadicT  ^l^'^.-V^^:^^ 
known  for  hJs  Graces  at  Versailles,  Ms  ^oik*  on  t\x«>  Kx<i  ^^^^^^^^ 


llY  FRENOH  ABT. 

and  the  Molidre  Foantain,  and  his  Victories  at  the  Pome  des  In- 
validcB ;  but  this  master  possesses  a  certain  grace  fnd  Tiraelty  of 
conception  which  still  exercise  their  charm.  Romanticism  proper 
played  a  very  sabordinate  r61e  in  sculpture,  where  the  deelsire 
part  was  undoubtedly  that  taken  by  realism.  Three  masters  here  stand 

'in  the  forefront:  Fr,  Rude,  P.  J.  David  d' Angers^  and  A,  L.  Bmryt, 
7ran9oi8  Bude  (1784-1855)  is  the  strongest  nature  of  the  three; 
he  invariably  interests,  even  if  he  does  not  always  satisfy  us.  Most 
of  his  creations  are  tainted  with  something  a  little  too  unquiet,  too 
theatrical.  Alongside  his  most  expressive  statue  of  Monge  at  Beaune 
stands  the  restless  Ney  of  the  Place  deVObserratoire;  his  admirable 
Gavaignac  in  Montpamasse  Cemetery  contrasts  with  the  Tory 
questionable  figure  of  'Napoleon  awaking  to  immortality'  at  Fixln, 
near  Dijon.  His  most  famous  work  is  the  'March  Out*  on  the  Arc  de 
TEtoile,  which  breathes  the  most  fiery  enthusiasm.  The  'Fisher 
Boy*  and  'Joan  of  Arc*  in  the  Louvre  also  deserve  special  remark. 
His  religious  efforts  are  the  least  pleasing  ('Baptism  of  Christ*  at  the 
Madeleine). — Pierre  Jean  David  d'Angers  (1788-1856 ;  thus  named 
from  his  native  town,  in  contradistinction  to  the  painter  J.  L.  David), 
unlike  Rude,  always  retains  a  certain  air  of  sober  reality.  He  has 
much  in  common  with  Ranch,  and  like  him  was  fond  of  representing 
generals  in  their  uniforms  and  scholars  and  artists  in  ideid  costume. 
His  busts  and  medallions  occur  by  the  hundred  at  P^re-Lachaise  and 
elsewhere,  but  it  is  impossible  for  us  to  share  the  enthusiasm  with 
which  they  were  regarded  by  his  contemporaries.  The  fame  of  the 
great  animal  sculptor  Antoine  Louis  Barye  (1796-1875)  has,  on  the 
other  hand,  steadily  increased.  His  larger  works,  such  as  the  'Lion 
and  Serpent'  in  the  Garden  of  the  Tuileries,  have  become  popular 
idols ;  and  the  original  casts  of  his  small  bronzes  fetch  nearly  their 
weight  in  gold.  His  most  successful  followers  are  FrimiH  (Jardin 
des  Plantes),  Cam  (Tuileries),  and  Qardet  (^Luxembourg,  Chantilly, 
etc.).  By  far  the  most  eminent  pupil  of  Rude  is  Jean  Baptists 
Garpeauz  (1827-75),  who  died  at  a  comparatively  early  age.  His 
'Triumph  of  Flora'  at  the  Louvre,  his  *Ugolino'  at  the  Tuileries, 
his  vivacious  busts,  and,  most  of  all,  his  group  of  'Dancing*,  at  the 
Opera,  which  is  inspired  by  a  truly  Bacchic  gust  of  existence,  and 
his  'Quarters  of  the  Globe'  on  the  Fontaine  de  TObseryatoire  assure 
him  one  of  the  highest  places  in  the  history  of  modem  sculpture. 
(The  last  can  be  best  studied  in  the  models  at  the  Louvre,  wfaidi 
clearly  reveal  the  feverish  energy  of  the  hand  that  made  them.) 
With  the  great  public  the  gentle  maidens  of  his  contemporary  Chapa 
(1833-91)  are  still  more  popular  (tomb  of  Regnault  in  the  Ecole 
des  Beaux-Arts).  Among  the  pupils  of  David  may  be  mentioned 
Carritr-BeUeuit^  Cavelier,  Maindron,  and  Aimi  MiUet, 

As  we  walk  to-day  through  the  Luxembourg  Gallery,  the  pnbHe 

parJcs,  the  cemeterieSf  and  the  exhibitions  we^nd^  itiatrue^  maoh 
academic  conventionality,  but  there  is  a\so  a)auii^wi\  «^^«ttRft  <il% 


FRENCH  ART.  W 

strong  effort  to  rise  above  eonvention  and  to  permeate  works  of  art 
with  personal  feeling,  besides  a  technique  brought  to  a  high  state 
of  perfection.  The  most  conspicuous  sculptors  are  Paul  Duboii  (b. 
1823),  whose  marvellously  finished  forms  show  the  influence  of  the 
early  Italians ;  Falguilrt  (b.  1831),  whose  fiery  Provencal  nature 
produces  such  admirable  works  as  the  ^Pegasus*  of  theSquare  de 
rOp^ra  at  the  same  time  as  such  doubtful  productions  as  the  great 
figure  in  the  Pantheon;  and  Merei€  (b.  1845),  with  his  *Gloria  Victis' 
in  the  Hdtel  de  Yille  and  his  'Quand  Meme'  in  the  Tuileries  Garden. 
Among  the  many  who  might  be  signalized  along  with  these  we  name 
Ernest  Barrios  (*First  Funeral',  in  the  H6tel  de  Ville),  Guillaume 
(monument  to  Ingres,  in  the  Ecole  des  Beaux- Arts),  Crauk  (mon- 
ument to  Adm.  Coligny),  Boucher  (*At  the  Goar,in  the  Luxembourg 
Garden),  8t,  Marceaux^  and  Paech,  Dalou  has  been  more  inclined  to 
adopt  the  pictorial  methods  of  the  18th  century.  His  latest  and  much 
criticized  works  are  the  Monument  of  the  Republic  (Place  de  la 
Nation)  and  the  Monument  to  Alphand  (Avenue  du  Bois-de- Bou- 
logne). The  extreme  of  individuality  in  art  is  represented  by  the 
highly  gifted  Augxuie  Rodin,  whose  works,  however,  are  often  open 
to  criticism  (*The  Kiss',  ^Victor  Hugo',  *Balzac%  *Mouth  of  Hell'). 
Desboii  and  others  suggest  themselves  In  the  same  connection.  Per- 
haps the  most  striking  plastic  work  of  modern  days  is  Bartholomi^s 
*MonumentauxMorts',inPere-Lachaise.  Roty,  Chaplain^  Daniel  Dw 
puis,  and  others  have  brilliantly  resuscitated  the  art  of  the  medallist. 

On  Abohitectubb  a  few  words  must  suffice.  Under  the  First 
Empire  the  classical  spirit  was  supreme  (Madeleine,  Exchange), 
under  the  Restoration  it  was  relaxed  only  so  far  as  to  allow  the 
addition  of  the  basili'a  (Notre-Dame-de-Lorette,  St.  Vincent-de- 
Paul).  Under  Louis  Philippe,  however,  a  great  revival  of  Gothic  took 
place,  headed  by  Viollet-le-Duc^  Lassus^  and  others  (restorations  of 
Notre  Dame,  the  Sainte  Ghapelle,  and  Pierrefonds;  Ste.  Clotilde), 
and  this  was  followed  by  a  general  eclecticism.  Among  the  lew 
really  original  works  of  the  century  honourable  mention  may  be 
made  of  the  Ecole  des  Beaux- Arts,  by  Duban ;  the  church  of  St. 
Augustin,  by  Baltard;  the  Trocad^ro,  built  by  Davioud  and  Bourdais 
in  1878;  the  church  of  the  Sacr^  Cceur,  by  Abadie;  and  the  Opera 
House,  by  Char'es  Oamier,  the  interior  of  which  is  especially  effective. 
Viollet-le-Duc's  'Entretiens  sur  1' Architecture'  first  broached  the 
important  principle  that  the  exterior  of  a  building  must  indicate  its 
uses  and  adapt  itself  to  the  altered  methods  of  construction.  The 
reading-room  of  the  Bibllotheque  Nationale,  by  Labrouste,  is  an 
admirable  example  of  the  adaptation  of  iron-construction  to  the  needs 
of  a  large  room. 

The  Industrial  Abts  reached  the  lowest  deep  <^1  ^^^x^.\^^<^^ 
under  Louis  Philippe,  but  the  Count  de  La\)Oidi€i^  oXa&^V^  t«^^^  ww 
the  London  Exhibition  of  1861  induced  a  great  \ui^xwetxic«^.>  ^^'^*^. 
at OrBt  took  the  form  of  a  reversion  to  eaillex  st^l^a.  \x^^%^<^'^'«^^ 


Ivi  FRKNCH  ART. 

later  that  a  really  modern  industrial  art  sprang  up,  in  eonjnnotioii 
vrlth  tlie  United  States,  England,  and  Belgium,  and  nnder  the  in- 
fluence which  the  products  of  Japan  began  to  exert  in  Paris  about 
1867.  The  visitor  to  Paris  will  enjoy  tracing  this  development  in 
the  works  of  the  pewterer  (Desbois,  Baffler)^  the  glass-maker  (OalU 
of  Nancy),  and  the  potter  (Delaherche^  Dalpeyrat,  Bigot),  as  well  as 
in  furniture,  tapestry,  textile  fabrics,  and  ornaments  (Lalique),  This 
field  also  is  the  scene  of  a  varied  and  promising  activity. 


PARIS. 


PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 

1.  Arrival  in  Paxil. 

Railway  Stations^  see  p.  26.  —  On  arriyal  the  traveller  should 
hand  his  small  haggage  to  a  porter  (facteur,  commissionnaire ; 
40-50  c.)f  follow  him  to  the  exit,  where  an  octroi  official  demands 
the  nature  of  its  contents  (see  p.  xlii),  and  call  a  cab  (voiture  de 
place).  The  cab  then  takes  its  place  in  the  first  row,  which  is  re^ 
served  for  engaged  vehicles.  After  receiving  the  driver*s  number 
(numiro),  the  traveller,  if  he  has  any  registered  luggage,  tells  him 
to  wait  for  it  (^reattz  pour  aitendre  Its  bagagea^J,  Hand-bags  and 
rugs  should  not  be  left  unguarded  in  the  cab,  at  any  rate  not  without 
making  the  driver  notice  the  number  of  articles,  as  there  are 
numerous  thieves  always  on  the  look-out  for  such  opportunities. 

The  traveller  next  betakes  himself  to  the  Salles  des  Bagagcs 
(Douane),  which  is  opened  10-15  min.  after  the  arrival  of  the  train. 
The  custom-house  examination  is  generally  lenient  (comp.  p.  xiii). 
For  carrying  a  trunk  to  the  cab  the  porter  again  receives  40-50  c, 
or  even  more  for  heavy  luggage.  The  octroi  official  has  again  to  be 
assured  that  the  contents  include  nothing  eatable.  As  a  rule,  the 
through-passenger  from  England  will  not  be  able  to  leave  the  station 
until  ^2  ^r»  *ft6r  his  arrival.  If  preferred,  however,  he  may  tell  the 
porter  to  carry  his  hand-baggage  direct  to  one  of  the  hotels  near  the 
railway  stations  (see  p.  9)  and  return  afterwards  for  his  trunk. 

The  fare  from  the  railway  station  to  the  town  is  i^j^^t,  for  a 
two-seated  cab  (at  night  2V4  fr.))  ^^'S®  articles  of  luggage,  one  piece 
25  c,  two  pieces  50  c,  three  and  more  pieces  75  c;  pourboire  25  c. 
(comp.  Appx.,  p.  36).  If  the  cab  has  to  wait  more  than  V*^'*  (which 
will  probably  be  the  case  more  often  than  not)  the  time-tariff  comes 
into  force:  2  &  2V2  fr.  per  hour  by  day,  2V2  &  28/4  fr.  by  night.  It 
is  also  advisable  to  hire  by  time  when  the  traveller  is  uncertain 
whether  he  can  obtain  rooms  at  the  hotel  of  his  choice.  The  tariff 
is  printed  on  the  ^num^ro*;  see  also  the  Appx.,  p.  36. 

At  the  Qar€  du  Nwd  and  the  Qar9  de  VEst  travellers  with  extra  heavv 
Itiggage  may  hire  a  Lugqaox  Gab,  with  a  rail  on  the  top  (Voiture  S^^^aU 
tnte  galerie  paw  bagaget)^  which  are  stationed  bebind.  \.\i«  oTnn\'ti^A«^  Vj^^^ 
the  placards)!  fares,  per  drive,  including  luggage,  lot  ^  v^*'  ^^'^W  ^V^^* 
day  (8  or  7  aid.  to  1230  a.mO,  by  night  3  fr.,  ot  w\ifeTi  oxQifeTfe^Xi^^aT^Jt^vDjCu 
n  audi  fir,  -  FamUies  or  large  parties  mav  lilte  a  "Rail^  *^^  ^*^^^* 
Bammkms,  Paris.    iUb  Edit.  V 


2  2.   HOTELS.  PreUminary 

(Omnibtu  tpicial  or  de  famille),  which  contains  from  6  to  13  teata.  The 
tariff  varieA  at  the  different  stations," hnt  may  he  reckoned  at  ahont  1  fr. 
per  seat.  About  60  kilogr.  (IS6  lbs.)  of  luggage  is  carried  free  for  1-8  petf., 
100  kil.  (226  Ihs.)  for  4-tO  pers ;  excess  1  c.  per  kil.  —  These  yehicles  hare 
to  be  ordered  in  advance,  and  to  secure  certainty  about  6  hrs.  law  ahoold  be 
allowed.  The  order  may  run  as  follows:  (M.  le  Chef  du)  Service  dee  VoUwru 
Bpieiales  or  dee  Omnihue  Spidaux^  Gare  du  Nord  (de  lEet),  Parie,  PrUre  de 
/aire  prendre  — personnes  au  train  de  (hour  of  arrival)^  signature.  Tele- 
grams of  this  nature  are  forwarded  free  by  any  station-master  on  the  route. 

2.  Hotels  fmd  FenBionB. 

Alphabetical  List  at  the  end  of  the  Book,  after  the  Index. 
For  the  duration  of  the  Exhibition   of  1900  the  Byndicat  dee  Qremde 
H6teU  de  Paris  has  established  a  Borbau  of  Information  at  Ko.  14,   Bue 
Jean-Jacques^Roussean  (PI.  R,  20,  21;  //),  where  trustworthy  det-iiU  are 
given  gratis  as  to  disengaged  rooms,  charges,  and  so  forth. 

The  large  hotels  of  the  first  class  are,  of  course,  provided  with 
all  modern  comforts,  such  as  electrlo  light,  passenger  eleyaton  or 
lifts,  steam  or  hot-water  heating,  and  haths.  Many  of  them  are  very 
luxuriously  furnished.  The  charges  correspond  to  the  accommodatioD. 
The  traveller  who  arrives  In  Paris  in  the  evening,  without  having 
previously  secured  rooms  by  letter  or  telegram  (with  paid  reply), 
will  probably  find  the  best  chance  of  accommodation  at  one  of  tiie 
largest  hotels,  with  their  hundreds  of  rooms.  He  should  ascertain 
the  price  of  the  room  before  allowing  his  luggage  to  be  canted  up- 
stairs. These  hotels  have  also  the  advantage  that  one  pays  for  what 
he  consumes  at  the  time,  without  being  bound  down  to  regular  meals. 

The  prices  given  below  have  been  furnished  by  the  landlords  or 
managers,  and  refer  to  one  person  for  one  day.  The  double-bedded 
rooms  are  invariably  the  best,  and  the  charge  made  for  them  la  not 
always  double  that  for  a  single  room.  If  desired,  breakfast  Is  senred 
in  the  vlsitor*s  own  room,  at  an  extra  charge  of  50c.  or  more. 
Luncheon  (dejeuner;  12  to  1.30  or  2)  and  dinner  (diner;  between 
6  or  6.30  and  8  or  8.80)  are  served  in  the  newer  hotels  of  the  first 
class  at  separate  tables,  while  in  the  older  and  smaller  houses  the 
long  *table  d'h6te*  Is  still  in  vogue.  In  the  winter-months  (Dec- 
March),  prices  are  lowered  at  many  houses.  —  The  prices  glTon 
below  will  undoubtedly  be  raised  during  the  Exhibition,  those  for 
rooms  probably  as  much  as  30-60  per  cent.  Arrangements  *en  pen- 
sion' will  be  entirely  discontinued.  —  When  not  otherwise  in- 
dicated, B.  (room)  in  the  following  pages  Includes  attendance  (A.) 
and  lights  (L.). 

The  most  fashionable  hotels  are  to  be  found  mostly  In  the  Place 
Vend6me,  the  W.  part  of  the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  the  Avenue  de  TOpAra, 
and  the  Champ s-Elys^ns. 

To  facilitate  a  choice  we  have  arranged  the  hotels  mentioned 

below  in  various  groups.   Though  the  largest  and  most  aristoftratie 

houses  have  been  named  first,  it  has  been  found  impossible  to  follow 

any  strict  order  of  merit  In  the  aTrai\gemfew\.  oi  VY^^WsX.  ^V^\&ant 


InformaUon.  2.  HOTELS.  3 

hotels  in  the  later  sections  might  with  equal  propriety  appear  in  the 
earlier  ones;  while  there  are  donhtless  many  deserving  houses  left 
entirely  unmentloned. 

Ko  hotel  can  be  recommended  as  flrst-dass  that  is  not  satisfactory 
in  its  sanitary  arrangements,  which  should  include  an  abundant  flush  of 
water  and  a  supply  of  proper  toilette  paper. 

Hotels  of  the  Highest  Class.  *  Bristol  Hotel  and  *H6tel  du  Rhin, 
Place  Vend6me  3  and  4  (Plan,  Red,  18;  special  plan  //+),  two  long 
established  and  aristocratic  houses,  patronized  by  royalty;  suites 
of  rooms  (dining-room,  drawing-room,  2-4  bedrooms,  and  bath 
40-120  fr.,  d^j.  or  D.  12  fr.  or  a  la  caHe ;  pension  for  servants  9-10  fr.). 
—  *Biti  mtel,  Place  Vend6me  16  (PI.  R,  18;  //),  opened  in  1898; 
admirable  cuisine  and  cellar.  —  ^ElysSe  Palace  Hdtel^  Avenue  des 
Champs-Elystfes  (PL  R,  12;  7),  opened  in  1899,  with  400  rooms; 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  in  the  entresol  12-20,  first  floor  8  40,  second,  third, 
and  fourth  floors  from  7,  fifth  floor  from  6  fr. ;  B.  2,  dej.  6,  D.  8  fr.  — 
*H6t,  de  VAthSnie,  Rue  Scribe  15,  near  the  Opera  House  (PI.  R,  18 ;  //), 
a  favourite  resort  of  Americans.  —  *Hdt.  Continental^  Rue  de  Castig- 
lione  3,  corner  of  the  Rue  de  Rivoli  (PL  R,  18;  //),  opposite  the 
Garden  of  the  Tuileries,  with  600  rooms;  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  6,  B.  2, 
dej.  6,  D.  7fr.  —  *Orand  Hotel,  Boulevard  des  Capucines  12 
(Pl.R,  18;  II),  adjoining  the  Opera  House,  with  about  900  rooms; 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  5-30,  B.  2,  d6j.  (incL  wine)  5,  D.  (incL  wine)  8  fr.  — 
*Hdt.  Meurice,  Rue  de  Rivoli  228  (PL  R,  18;  li),  long  frequented 
by  British  travellers,  with  250  rooms;  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  8,  B.  2, 
D.  8  fr.,  d^j.  a  la  carte.  —  *H6t,  Chatham,  Rue  Daunou  17,  to  the 
S.  of  the  Place  del'Op^ra,  another  old  favourite  of  British  trav- 
ellers, with  160  rooms  from  7,  B.  i%  d6j.  4,  D.  6  fr. 

Hotels  of  almost  Equal  Bank.  In  the  Inner  Town  :  *H6t.  Ter- 
fninus,  Rue  St.  Lazare  110,  at  the  Gare  St.  Lazare  (PL  B,  18),  some- 
what out  of  the  way  for  pleasure-visitors,  with  500  rooms;  R.  on 
first  floor  8-18,  second  floor  7-16,  third  floor  6-14,  fourth  floor 
5-12,  fifth  floor  4-7  fr.  (cheapest  room  in  each  case  looking  on  the 
court),  A.  1,  L.  lt/2,  B.  1 1/2)  d6j.  with  wine  5,  D.  with  wine  6,  pens. 
16-22  fr.  —  *H6t.  du  Louvre,  Rue  de  Rivoli  172  and  Place  du  Palais- 
Royal  (PL  R,  20; //),  with  300  rooms;  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  61/2,  B.IV2, 
d^j.  (with  wine)  5,  D.  (do.)  6,  pens,  from  15  fr. 

In  or  near  the  Place  Vend6me  (PL  R,  18;  77):  Hot.  VendOme, 
Place  Venddme  1,  a  high-class  family  hotel,  with  twelve  suites.  — 
Hot,  Mirabeau  and  Hot.  Westminster,  Rue  de  la  Paix  8  and  11,  two 
good  family  hotels;  H6t.  de  Hollande,  Rue  de  la  Paix  18,  with  100 
rooms,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  7,  B.  I72,  D-  "^j  at  separate  tables  8  fr. ; 
H6t,  des  Iles-Britanniques,  Rue  de  la  Paix  22,  Place  de  I'Op^ra  1,  and 


t  For  explanation  of  references  to  Plan,  see  end  of  the  book,  before 
the  index  of  streets.    The  italicised  Roman  nnmer&U  {J  I^  T«l«t  \c^  >(^«^ 
apeeial  or  district  plans.   The  streets  parallel  with  t\i«  ^e\iv«  «.t«  u\vTG^^«t^^ 
from  E.  to  W.,  while  the  nambers  of  the  croaa-atT^^Xa  \>*^tv  «X  ^i^^^  ^"«^!^ 
m§xt  the  river i  the  even  nambers  are  on  tlve  xl^il,  1^^  o^^  «^  ^t  \«\>- 


4  2.  HOTBLS. 

Avenue  de  I'Optfra  49,  a  family  hotel,  R.  from  7  fr.,  meals  a  la  eaita. 

—  To  the  S.  of  the  Place  Yenddme:  *H6t.  Caatifflione,  Bae  de 
GastigUone  12,  with  100  rooms,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  6,  B.  1  Vsi  d<J.  6, 
D.  6,  pens.  15  fr.;  *H6t,  de  Londret,  Rue  de  Castiglioue  5,  with  80 
rooms,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  5,  B.  li/2,  d^j.  4,  D.  6,  at  separate  tables 7, 
pens,  from  16  fr.  —  H6t.  Windsor,  Rue  de  Rivoli226,  with  160  rooms, 
R.  from  5,  B.  i^Uj  d6j.  472*  I>*  7,  pens.  15  fr.;  H6t.  Bfi^ion^ 
Rue  de  Rlvoli  218,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  6-8,  B.  IV2,  dfij.  5.  D.  7  £r.  — 
*H6t.  de  Lille  et  d' Albion,  Rue  St.  Honors  223,  to  the  N.  of  ihe  Bne 
de  Rivoli,  with  180  rooms;  R.,  L.,  &  A.  5-8,  B.  l*/*,  d^j.  4,  D.  6, 
pens.  15-18  fr.;  *H6t.  de  France  et  Choiaeul,  Rue  St.  Honorfi  239, 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  8,  B.  2,  d^j.  4,  D.  6,  board  10  fr.  —  *The  Normandy, 
Rue  de  TEchelle  7  and  Rue  St  Honors  256;  *E6U  Binda,  Bae 
de  TEchelle  11 ,  near  the  Avenue  de  TOptfra,  these  two  firequented 
by  the  English,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  5-12,  B.  IV2,  D.  (with  wine)  6  f^.  — 
To  the  S.E.  of  the  Place  de  TOp^ra :  *H6i.  de  BeUevue,  Avenue  de 
l'Op^ra39,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  6-12,  B.  1V„  dtfj.  4,  D.  6,  pens.  14-20 it.; 
*H6i,  dea  Deax-Mondes,  Avenue  de  I'Opfira  22  (PI.  B,  18, 19),  with 
200  rooms  from  6,  A.  1,  L.  %  B.  2,  d6j.  4,  D.  6  fr.  —  *H6L  Scribe, 
Rue  Scribe  1,  adjoining  the  Opera  House  (PI.  R,  B,  18;  /i),  with 
100  rooms ;  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  8,  B.  2,  dej.  (with  wine  and  coffee)  6, 
D.  (with  wine)  8,  pens,  from  20  fr. 

In  or  near  the  Champs-Elys^es  :  *Hotel  Beau-Site,  Rue  de  Pxes- 
bourg  4,  Place  de  I'Etoile  (PI.  B,  12 ;  i),  a  fashionable  family  hotel 
with  50  rooms;  R.,  L.,  &  A.  10-15,  B.  21/2,  d^j.  7,  D.  10,  board 
16  fr.;  all  meals  served  in  private  rooms.  —  *H6U  CampheU,  Avenue 
de  Friedland  45  and  47,  family  hotel  with  100  rooms,  R.,  L.,  ft  A. 
5-8,  B.  11/2,  dej.  4,  D.  6,  pens,  from  15  fr.;  *H6t,  d?Una,  Avenne 
d'Wna  26,  with  225  rooms  at  4-10,  B.  1 1/2,  doj.  4,  D.  6,  pens.  12  ft, 

—  Hot  ImpSrial^  Rue  Ghristophe  Golomb  4.  —  *H6t.  d^Albe,  Avenue 
des  Champs-Elys(^es  101  and  Avenue  de  TAlma  55,  R.,  L.,  &  A. 
8-10,  B.  2,  dej.  4,  D.  6,  pens.  18  fr.  —  *H6t.  Meyerbeer,  Rue  Mon- 
taigne 3,  near  the  Rond-Point  (PI.  R,  15;  11),  R.,  L.,  &  A.  6-16, 
B.  IV21  dtfj.  4,  D.  6,  pens,  from  15  fr.  —  More  to  the  S.,  in  the 
direction  of  the  Seine:  *H6t,  de  la  Trimoille,  Rue  de  la  Trtfmoillel4 
and  Rue  Boccador  12,  to  the  E.  of  the  Ave.  de  TAlma  (PI.  R,  12;  i), 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  5-15,  B.  2,  d^j.  5,  D.  6,  pens.  12-25  fir.;  Lamghim 
Hotels  Rue  Boccador  24. 

The  QrandS'Hdtel  du  Trocadiro,  consisting  of  four  buildings  In 
the  Rue  Alboni,  to  the  W.  of  the  Trocad^ro,  between  the  Quai  de 
Passy  and  the  Boulevard  Delessert  (PL  R,  8 ;  1),  have  been  opened 
for  the  duration  of  the  Exhibition  by  the  Gompagnie  Internationale 
des  Wagons-Lits.  They  contain  1600  rooms,  with  accommodation 
for  2800  guests. 

The  ItUemational  Sleeping  Car  Co.,  with  central  offlees  in  Paris  (Plaoe 
de  rOpura  8)  and  London  (14  Goclupar  St.,  8.W.),  has  numeroiu  anati 
in  the  principal  cities  of  Great  Britain ,  the  United  States ,  and  i3oa- 
t/nenfaJ  Earope.    A  detailed  prospectus  ot  l^«  \iot«\%  mvs  \k«  ^\fcitVBAl  oa 


Information,  2.   HOTELS.  5 

applicfttion  from  any  of  these.  The  tenns  per  week  are  iCO  fr.  for  a 
gingle  person.  900  fr,  for  two  persons  in  one  room.  This  sum  include 
fall  pension,  transport  to  and  from  the  railway  station,  14-30  Exhibition 
tickets,  and  other  priyileges.  A  smiJl  reduction  is  made  for  a  stay  of 
two  or  more  weeks. 

The  large  Terminus  HoUl  of  the  new  Gare  d'Orltfans  (PI.  R,  17 ;  //), 
Rue  de  Lille,  may  also  be  named  beie. 

Other  Hotels  (FirBt  and  Second  Class).  The  hotels  in  this  section 
are  arranged  topographically,  and  their  situation  and  charges  will 
give  a  rough  idea  of  their  relative  excellence.  Gomp.,  however,  tlie 
remarks  at  pp.  2  and  3. 

1.  Hotels  in  the  W.  Part  of  the  Inner  Town. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Place  Vend6me ,  in  the  Rub  be  Castiolionb 
(PI.  R,  18;  ii):  No.  4,  Balmorcd;  No.  6,  *MitropoU,  R.  from  3, 
B.  IV2.  dtfj.  31/2,  I>-  6»  pens,  from  12  fr.;  No.  7,  Dominiciy  pens. 
15  fr. ;  No.  11,  Liverpool,  a  family  hotel  with  suites  of  rooms. 

In  the  Rub  db  Rivoli  (PL  R,  18;  //),  adjoining  the  Louvre  and 
the  Garden  of  the  Tuileries,  a  favourite  English  quarter :  No.  208, 
•Wagram,  R.  5-6,  B.  i%  d^j.  31/2,  D.  5,  pens.  12  fr. ;  No.  202, 
*St.  James  tt  d' Albany,  with  250  rooms,  R.  4-6,  L.  1/2,  A.  1,  B.  1 1/2, 
d^j.  4,  D.  5,  at  separate  tables  6,  board  9,  pens.  15  fr.  —  H6t,  Re^ 
gina,  Place  de  Rivoli  2,  with  200  rooms;  R.  5-8,  B.  2,  dej.  3, 
D.  4,  pens.  12-15  fr.  —  In  the  side-streets  between  the  Rue  de 
Rivoli  and  the  Rue  St.  Honor6  (PI.  R,  18;  II):  H6t.  de  Castille,  Rue 
Cambon  37,  R.  6-12,  B.  IV2,  dtfj.  4,  D.  5,  pens.  20  fr.;  *H6t.  de  la 
Tamise,  Rue  d'Alger  4,  R.  3-12,  B.  IV2,  d^j.  3V2,  D.  4V2»  ^oard 
from  8  fr. ;  *H6t,  d' Oxford  et  de  Cambridge,  Rue  d' Alger  13  and  Rue 
St.  Honortf  221,  R.  4-12,  B.  li/2,  d^j.  31/2,  D.  4,  at  separate  tobies 
41/2  (wine  included),  pens.  10-14  fr. ;  H6t.  de  Paris  et  d^  Osborne,  Rue 
St.  Roch  4,  R.  2-10,  B.  I1/2,  d^j.  3,  D.  3,  at  separate  tables  31/2, 
pens.  9-17  fr.  —  For  other  hotels  near  the  Louvre,  see  p.  8. 

Near  the  Rub  db  la  Paix,  to  the  N.  of  the  Place  Venddme  (PI.  R, 
18;  //),  between  the  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra  and  the  Boulevard  des 
Gapacines:  H6t,  de  Calais ^  Rue  des  Capucines  5,  R.  5-6,  B,  i^j^, 
d^j.  3,  D.  4,  board  9-12  fr.  In  the  Rue  Daunou :  No.  4,  H6t,  Rastadt, 
R.  4-7,  L.  i/2,  A.  1,  B.  1 1/2,  d^j.  4,  D.  6,  pens.  15  fr.;  No.  7,  Hot,  de 
VEmpire,  R.  41/2-12,  B.  II/2-2,  d^j.  4,  D.  5  fr.;  No.  6,  Hdi.  d' Orient, 
R.  6-8,  B.  1 V2,  d^j.  4-5,  D.  5,  at  separate  tables  6  fr. ;  ♦JETdt.  Louis- 
U'Orand,  Rue  Louis-le- Grand  3,  R.  from  3,  B.  1 1/2,  d^j.  3,  D.  4  fr. ; 
Hot.  des  EtaU'Unis,  Rue  d'Antin  16,  R.  3-12,  B.  IV4,  dtfj.  3,  D.  4, 
pens.  8-18 fr.;  H6t.  d:Antin,  Rue  d'Antin  18,  R.  372-10,  B.  II/2, 
d^j.  rwith  wine)  31/2,  I>.  (do.)  4,  pens.  10  fr. 

Near  the  Boulevard  des  Italians ,  to  the  E.  of  tke  k^^\!L^\&  ^<& 
rOpera(Pl.R,  21;  II):  Hot.  de Port-Mahon,  Rvift  d€>^oxV-^i\xss\i.^> 
nnpretendin^y  R.  from  2%  B.  I1/4,  d^j.  f witti  mne^ 'i»M'i^  ^*^?^ 
3  iV.  —  (l>rand'ff6tel  de  la  Niva,  Rue  Monalgii^  ^,  ^.  ^-^,  ^.  V^W> 


6  2.   HOTELS.  PfMmimarf 

d^j.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  4,  pens,  from  11  fr. ;  H6t  de  ManeketUr^ 
Rae  de  Grammont  1,  R.  4-16,  B.  1 1/2,  d^j.  (with  wine)  B%  !>•  (do.)4k 
pens.  12-15  fr. ;  Hdt.  Favart,  Rne  Marlvjiax  6,  adjoining  the  Opfta 
Comiqne,  R.  7,  B.  IV4,  dtfj.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  4,  hoard  13  fr. 

In  the  BouLEYABDs  DBS  Capucikes  and  dbb  Itauxhb  and  their 
side-slreets  (PI.  R,  G,  18, 21 ;  II):  *Grand'H6ta dea  Capueina,  BoqL 
des  Gapacines  37,  R.  5-16,  d^j.  4,  D.  4,  pens.  15-25 fr.;  Maiaom 
meubUes  (R.  and  B.  only),  Boul.  des  Capncines  25  and  29;  ^Qr,  BSt, 
de  Bade^  Bonl.  des  Italiens  32  and  Rue  dn  Helder  6,  R.  ftrom  5,  B. 
1  V2»  dtfj.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  5,  pens,  from  14  fr. ;  •fl8«.  de  JtiiMfe, 
at  the  £.  end  of  the  Bool,  des  Italiens  (Nos.  2-4),  at  the  comer  of  the 
Rue  Dronot,  R.  from  7,  B.  IV2,  d^j.  3,  D.  at  separate  tables  41/2, 
pens,  from  15  fT.—Adelphi  Hotel^  Roe  Taltbont  4,  adjoining  the  Boul. 
des  Italiens,  R.  from  5,  B.  IV21  d^j.  S^U,  D.  41/21  pene.  from  10  fr.; 
*H6t.  du  Tibre,  Rue  du  Helder  8,  R.  6-18,  B.  1 1/2,  dfij.  4,  D.  6,  at  sepa- 
rate  tables  6,  pens.  15-25  fr. ;  Hot  du  Helder,  Rne  dn  Helder  9,  B. 
5-8  fr. ;  *H6t.  Richmond,  Rue  du  Helder  11,  a  family  hotel,  B.  3-12, 
L.  1/2,  A.  1/2,  B.  IV2,  d^j.  4,  D.  5  fr.  (wine  in  each  CMe);  •H6U  de 
VOpira,  Rue  du  Helder  16,  R.4-12,  B.  IV2,  dtfj.  31/2,  D.4,  pens.  12fr. 
—  *H6t.  Byron^  Rue  Laffltte  20,  combined  with  the  Orand-BStel  dt 
V Europe,  Rue  Le  Peletier  3,  R.  3-5,  B.  I'/g,  dtfj.  (with  wine)  S% 
D.  (do.)  4,  at  separate  tables  41/2,  peus.  8V2-iOV2  fr-;  ^^*'  <*«*  ■?«»•■ 
Ba9,  Rne  Laffltte  32,  a  Dutch  house,  R.  4-8,  B.  I74,  d<j.  3,  D.  4 
(both  with  wine),  pens.  9-15  fr.;  H6t.  Laf/itU,  Rue  Laffltte  38, 
R.  4-12,  B.  11/4,  d(?j.  31/2,  I>.  4  fr.;  Grand-Hdtel  Le  PeUtier,  Bve 
Le  Peletier  27,  R.  31/2-10,  B.  1,  D.  3  fr.;  •Hdt,  BosskU,  Rne  Bo»- 
slni  16,  R.  from  4,  B.  1%,  dtfj.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  4,  pens.  16  ft: 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  Place  de  I'Op^ra  (PL  B,  21;  11):  Orfrnd- 
Hdtel  Suisse,  Rue  Lafayette  5,  R.  from  4,  B.  IV2,  d^.  (with  wine) 
31/2,  D.  (do.)  41/2,  pens.  9V2-I6  fr-j  Victoria  Hotel,  Clttf  d'Antln  1C( 
R.  4-10,  L.  1/2,  B.  11/2,  d^j.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  4,  pens.  10-16  fr.; 
H6L  de  France,  Clt^  d'Antin  22,  R.  from  3,  B.  1,  dtfj.  (with  wine) 
21/2,  D.  (do.)  31/2  fr.',  Hdt.  8t.  Georges,  Rue  St.  Georges  18,  B.  fnmi 
6,  B.  11/4,  d^j.  (with  wine)  31/2,  I>.  (do.)  4,  pens.  12  fr.  —  Fartha 
to  the  N. :  Hot.  de  Berne,  Rue  de  Ch&teaudun  30,  R.  3-12,  B.  II/4  ft., 
no  hot  meals. 

Near  the  Madeleine,  to  the  W.  of  the  Boulevard  des  Oapnolnei 
(PL  R,  G,  18 ',  11).  Rue  Gaumartin,  between  the  BouL  des  Oapuoinei 
and  the  BouL  de  la  Madeleine :  No.  14,  Grande  Bretagne,  R»  from 4, 
B.  11/2,  d^j.  4,  D.  5,  pens,  from  12  fr.;  No.  33,  8t,  Pitenbowg, 
mainly  English  customers,  R.  5,  B.  1^2)  d^j-  3,  D.  4,  at  ■epaate 
tables  5,  pens,  from  12^2  f'>  —  ^^l-  de  Shze,  Rue  de  Sdxe  16,  VB- 
preteiiding,  R.  3-8,  B.  II/2  fr.,  restaurant  a  la  carte. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  Madeleine:  H6t.  Burgundy,  Rue  Dup1iOt8, 

EngYiah  house,  R.  3-8,  B.  11/2,  d^j.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  ^peBI. 

8i/2'i4  fr.;   •Hotel-Pension  Rapp  et  Duplvol,  ^\i^  ^VeftAVADM  1(H 

R,  6,  B.  ii/2,  dtfj.  (with wine)  4,  D.  (Ao-^b,  ^ft\i^.V>NUtt.\llML«fc 


Information,  2.   HOTELS.  7 

la  Concorde^  Rue  Richepanse  6,  R.  6,  B.  I72,  d^j.  (with  wine)  372? 
D,  (do.)  4,  pens.  16  fr. 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  Madeleine:  *H6t,  Percy ^  Cifctf  du  Retire  6 
(entr.  Rue  Boissy-d'Anglas  35  and  Rue  du  Faubourg-St-Honor6  30), 
quietly  situated,  R.  from  4,  B.  IV2,  d^j.  3,  D.  4,  pens,  from  9  fr.j 
*S6t-Pen8.  TeUy  Cit4  du  Retiro  9,  R'.  from  4,  B.  IV4,  d^j.  2V2, 
D.  372*  pens.  8-11  fr.  —  Farther  to  the  S.,  near  the  Place  de  la 
Concorde  and  the  Ohamps-Elys^es :  Hot.  Vouillemont,  Rue  Boissy 
d'Anglas  16,  R.  6-12,  B.  2,  d^j.  4,  D.  6,  pens,  from  16  fr. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  Madeleine:  Hot,  de  Paris,  Rue  de  la  ViUe 
rEveque  28,  R.  3-10,  B.  1,  D.  (with  wine)  31/2,  pens.  10-12  fr.  j 
Hot,  de  VElysie,  Rue  des  Saussaies  12,  R.  from  4,  B.  IV4,  d^j.  (with 
wine)  3,  D.  fdo.)  372^^*;  Hot,  MalesherbeSy  Boul.  Malesherbes  26, 
R.  4-7,  B.  172,  dej.  4,  D.  5,  pens.  14  fr.  —  In  the  side-streets  of 
the  Boul.  Malesherbes:  H6t.  Bedford,  Rue  de  I'Arcade  17,  R.  5-10, 
B.  1V2>  d^j.  4,  p.  5,  at  separate  tables  6,  pens.  I2V2-I8  fr.:  Hot.  de 
V Arcade,  Rue  de  I'Arcade  7,  R.  from  4,  B.  1,  d^j.  3,  D.  31/2,  pens, 
from  8  fr. ;  H6t,  Buckingham,  Rue  Pasquier  32,  R.  from  3,  B.  11/2* 
d^j.  3,  D.  4  fr. ;  Grand-Hotel  Alexandra,  Rue  de  la  Bienfaisance  16, 
English,  R.4-10,  B.1V2»  d^j-  (with  wine) 3,  D.  (do.)  4,  pens.ll-17fr. 

2,  Hotels  in  the  Champs-Elysees  and  their  Environs. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Rond-Point  des  Ghamps-Elys^es  (P1.R,  15;//): 
H6t.  Montaigne,  Rue  Montaigne  30,  R.  from  4,  L.  3/^,  B.  IV2.  d^j. 
3V21  ^'  ^  'r*  —  Near  the  N.  end  of  the  Avenue  d'Antin :  Bradford, 
Rue  St.  Philippe-du-Roule,  Rue  d'Artois  14,  R.  from  4,  B.  1% 
d<j.  4,  D.  5,  pens,  from  12  fr.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  Rond-Point: 
*H6t,  de  Bivoli,  Avenue  d^Antin  23,  family  hotel,  R.  from  4,  B.  1 V2, 
d6j.  2V2-3V2,  I>.  6-6  fr. }  *Hdt.  du  Palais,  Cours-la-Reine  28,  R.4-7, 
B.  IV2,  d^j.  4,  D.  6,  pens.  14  fr. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Rond-Point,  in  the  side-streets  of  the  Avenue 
de  PAlma:  Orosvenor,  Rue  Pierre-Charron  69,  R,  from  5,  B.  1^21 
dej.  31/2,  D.  4^21  pens,  from  10  fr. ;  CUment-Marot,  Rue  Cl^ment- 
Marot  7,  R.  5-6,  B.  11/21  d^j.  (with  wine)  4,  D.  (do.)  6,  pens.  14  fr. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  Place  de  I'Etoile :  Splendide  R6tel,  Avenue 
Oarnot  Ibis;  —  to  the  E.  of  the  Place:  *Royal  Hotel,  Avenue  Fried- 
land  33,  R.  6-12,  B.  2,  d^j.  4,  D.  5,  pens,  from  16  fr.;  Lord  Byron, 
Rue  Lord  Byron  16,  R.  4-7,  B.  172»  dej.  372>  I>-  472i  pens.  from 
12  fr.;  Hot.  des  Champs- Ely  sees,  Rue  Balzac  3,  only  *en  pension', 
6-10  fr. }  Beaujon,  Rue  Balzac  8,  R.  from  4,  B.  1 72,  d^j.  272,  D.  3  V2, 
pens,  from  8  fr.  —  Farther  to  the  E. :  Haussmann,  Boul.  Haussmann 
192,  R.  3-7,  B.  174,  dej.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  372,  pens.8-12  fr. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Place  dePEtoile:  Hot,  International,  Avenue 
d'Wna  60,  R.  5-10,  B.  I74,  d^j.  3,  D.  4,  pens.  10-15  fr.;  Hot.  Co- 
lumbia, A.yenxiGKUbeTiQ,B,.  5-7,B.172,  d^j.  4,D.^,^^Ti&A^VtA 
H6t,  Ferras,  Rue  HameJin  32,  R.  4-15,  B.  i^|«i,  ^l^^.  i^^T>.'^,^«^'e»- 
from  iOfc.  i  B6t,  Florida,  Rue  Ltfo-Pelibea  5,  ^.  b-^,  ^«itk^,^-V^  ^x  • 


8  2.    HOTELS.  PreUnUnafy 

8.  Hotels  in  the  £•  Part  of  the  Inner  Town. 

The  hotels  In  the  ObntbalBoulsvabds  and  their  S.  Blde-streett, 
from  the  Bue  de  Richelien  to  the  Place  de  la  Btfpnbliqne  (PI.  B,  21, 
24;  IJI'),  are  also  convenient,  though  somewhat  farther  from  the 
tonrist  centre.  In  the  Boul.  Montmartre :  No.  3,  Orand-HdU  Dor£, 
B.  3-16,  B.  1  i/2  fr.,  restanrant  2i  la  carte ;  No.  10,  H6t.  Roneeray  (Ter- 
rasse  Jouffroy),  B.  4-8,  d^j.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  5  fr.  In  the 
Boul.  Poissonni^re :  No.  30,  Beau-Sijouf;  No.  16,  RougemotU.  — - 
*H6U  Modeme,  Place  de  la  B^publique,  a  flrst-class  house  with  420 
rooms  from  3,  B.  IV21  d^j.  B,  D.  4,  pens.  12  fr. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Boul.  Polssonniere :  H6t  de  France,  Oittf  Ber- 
gere  21>i8,  R.  3-8,  L.  1/2,  A.  %  B.  IV4,  dtfj.  2V2,  D.  3  «r.;  H6t.  de 
la  CiU  Berglre  et  H6t.  Btmaud,  Cittf  Berg^re  4,  R.  4,  B.  IV4,  d^j. 
(with  wine)  2^/4,  D.  (do.)  31/2*  pens.  10  fr.j  ^Qrand-Hdlel  Berglre, 
Rue  Bergere  32,  B  3-10,  L.  %  A.  1,  B.  11/2,  dtfj.  (with  wine)  4, 
D.  (do.)  5,  at  separate  tahle  6,  pens,  from  11 1/2  fr.  In  the  Bne  de 
Trtfvise  :  No.  7,  H6t.  de  Belgique  et  de  HoUande,  B.  from 4,  B.  1  fr.; 
No.  10,  H6t  de  Cologne^  R.  3-5,  B.  1  fr.,  no  other  meals  serred; 
No.  18,  H6t,  de  Trivise,  R.  3-5,  B.  IV4,  d^j.  (with  wine)  BVo,  D. 
(do.)  4,  pens,  from  7  fr. ;  Grand- H6Ul  Richer,  Rue  Bioher  60,  B. 
3-5  fr. ;  *Grand'H6tel  de  Paris  et  de  Nice,  Rue  du  Fanbourg-Mont- 
martre  36,  R.  31/4-68/4,  B.  IV2,  d^j.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  4, 
pens.  10-13  fr.;  Qrand-Htttl  de  Bavihre,  Rue  dn  ConserYatoire  17, 
R.  5-7,  B.  11/2,  d^j.  (with  wine)  3V2»  I>-  (do.)  41/2,  at  separate 
tables  5,  pens.  12-15  fr. ;  Hdt,  de  Lyon  et  de  New  York,  Bue  dn 
Conservatoire  7,  R.  41/2-11,  B.  IV2,  d^j.  (with  wine)  31/21  I>.  (do.) 
41/2,  pens.  10-15  fr. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Boulevard  Bonne-Nouvelle :  Qrand^Edtd  du 
Pavilion,  Rue  de  I'Echiquier  36,  R.  from  4,  B.  iy2,  dtfj.  3,  D.  4, 
pens,  from  lOfr. ;  Orand-Hdtel  Violet,  Passage  Violet  4-10,  between 
the  Rues  du  Faubourg- Polssonniere  and  d'Hauteville,  R.  3-8,  B.  ll/j, 
dtfj.  (with  wine)  31/2,  D.  (do.)  5,  pens.  12-15  fr.;  H6t.  drAutriehe, 
Rue  d'Hauteville  37,  R.  5-8,  B.  I1/2,  d^j.  4,  D.  5,  pens.  15  fr. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Boulevard  Montmartre  and  near  the  Exchange : 
H6L  Vivienne,  Rue  Vivienne  40,  R.  3-10,  A.  1/2,  L.  V2,  B.  1  ft.,  re- 
staurant a  la  carte;  Orand-Hotel  d' Angleterre,  Rue  Montmartre  56, 
R.  3-5,  B.  1,  d^j.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  31/2,  pens.  9  fr. ;  H6t.  des 
Colonies,  Rue  Paul-Lelong37,  off  the  Rue  Montmartre,  R.  from  B^/%, 
pens,  from  9  fr. ;  H6t.  des  Palmiers,  Rue  Gren^ta  39,  a  little  to  the 
S.  W.  of  the  Conservatoire  des  Arts  et  Metiers,  R.  3-6  fr. 

Near  the  Louveb  (Pl.R,  21 ;  II,  III).  *  Orand-Hdtel  du  Palais 
Royal  et  de  I'Eurepe,  Rue  de  Valois  4,  to  the  E.  of  the  Palais-Royal, 
R.  from  5,  B.  II/2,  D.  (with  wine)  4,  pens.  12  fr. ;  Grand-Hdtel  du 
Rh6ne,  Rue  Jean- Jacques-Rousseau  5,  R.  from  21/2,  L.  1/4,  B.  1, 
d^j.  (with  wine)  21/2,  D.  (do.)  3,  pens,  from  8fr.  In  the  Rue  Groix- 
des-PetitS'Champs:  No.  10,  H6t,  de  I'TJnivers  et  du  Portugal^  well 
spoken  of,  R.  3-6,  B.l,  d<j.  (witlkwine")  ^,  I>.(Jio."i^^U,%.\%«^iM*ft 


InformaUon,  2.  HOTELS.  9 

tobies  4,  pens.  8-10  fr.;  No.  4,  H6t,  du  Olobe,  R.  2-6,  B.  II/4,  dtfj. 
(with wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  Si/a  fr.;  •H6t.  SoUnte-Marie,  Rue  de  RivoU83, 
R.  3-91/2,  B.  11/4,  d^j.  (witli  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  4  fr.  Farther  to  the 
E.:  H6U  Britannique,  Avenue  Victoria  20,  R.  IV2-6,  L.  %  A.  i/,, 
d^j.  l»/2-2,  D.  3,  pens.  6-8  fr. 

Near  the  BiBUOTHiaxnB  Nationai.b  (PJ.R,21;  //,  III),  *Orand' 
H6ul  LouvoU,  Place  LouYois  and  Rue  Lnlll  3,  R.  4-7 V2,  B.  IV2, 
d^j.  (with  wine)  4,  D.  (do.)  41/2,  pens.  12-16  fr.;  •H6t.  de  Malte, 
Rue  de  Richelieu  63,  R.  4-6,  B.  IV2,  d^j.  3,  D.  4,  pens.  12-13  fr.; 
Hot.  dejaloia,  Rue  de  Richelieu  69,  R.  3-6,  L.  3/^^  A.  1/2,  B.  II/2, 
d^j.  (with  wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  5,  pens.  11-12  fir. 

4.  Hotels  near  the  N.  Bailway  Stations. 
By  the  Gabb  du  Nobd  (Pi.  B,  23,  24) :  Grand  H6Ul  du  Chemin 
de  Fer  du  Nord,  Boul.  de  Penain  12,  flrst-class,  R.  6-15,  B.  li/a* 
d6j.  (with  wine)  6,  D.  (do.)  6,  pens.  15  fr.;  H6t.  Cailleux,  Rue 
St.  Quentin  37,  comer  of  the  Rue  de  Dunkerqne,  R.  4-10,  B. 
11/4,  ddj.  (with  wine)  41/2,  ^'  (do.)  6V2,  pens.  12  fr.,  these  two 
opposite  the  exit  from  the  station ;  H6t.  de  la  Oare  du  Nord^  Rue  St. 
Quentin  31,  R.  3-10,  L.  %  B.  lV4fr.;  New  Hotel,  Rue  St.  Quentin 
40,  R.  3-8,  B.  1,  dtfj.  (with  wine)  6%  fr.  —  By  the  Gam  db  l'Est 
(PI.  B,  34):  H6t  Fran^aU,  Rue  de  Strasbourg  13,  to  the  right  on 
leaving  the  station,  R.  from  31/2  fr.;  *H6t.  de  P Europe,  Boul.  de 
Strasbourg  74,  opposite  the  stotion,  R.  3V2-5V2»  B.  IV4,  d^j.  2V2) 
D.  3,  pens.  10  fr.;  Orand-Hotel  de  Strasbourg j  Boul.  de  Stras- 
bourg 78  and  Rue  de  Strasbourg  7,  R.  2V2-6  fr. ;  Qrand-H6tel  de 
France  et  de  Suisse,  Rue  de  Strasbourg  1,  R.  from  3,  B.  1,  d^j.  (with 
wine)  3,  D.  (do.)  31/2,  pens.  8-12  fr.;  VilU  de  New  York,  Boul.  de 
Strasbourg  6,  R. 4,  B.  1,  d^j.  or  D.  (with  wine) 3,  pens.  10  fr.;  Hot. 
des  Voyageurs,  Boul.  de  Strasbourg  93,  R.  2-6,  B.  1  fr.;  H6t.  du 
Chemin  de  Fer,  Boul.  de  Strasbourg  11,  R.  3-6,  B.  1 1/4  fr.  —  By  the 
Gakb  St.  Lazabb  (PI.  B,  18) :  Terminus,  see  p.  3 ;  H6t.  de  Lond/res 
et  de  New  York,  Place  du  Havre  15,  opposite  the  station,  R.  4-6, 
B.  IV2,  d^j.  3,  D.  4,  pens.  IO-I2V2  ^r.;  H6t.  CosmopoliU,  Rue  de 
r  Arcade  62,  R.  4-8  fr. 

5.  Hotels  on  the  Left  Bank  of  the  Seine. 

These  hotels  are  less  frequented  by  the  pleasure-visitor  to  Paris, 
though  those  in  the  N.  part  of  the  Quartier  St.  Germain  are  con- 
venient for  the  Louvre.  Those  in  the  Quartier  Latin  are  frequented 
almost  exclusively  by  students  of  some  kind  or  another. 

In  the  Quabtibb  St.  Gebmain  (PL  R,  17, 16):  Hot.  du  Qual 
VoUake,  Quai  Voltaire  19,  near  the  Pont  du  Carrousel,  R.  4-7,  d^j.  3, 
D.  372*  pens.  9-12  fr.;  Hot.  des  Ambassadeurs,  Rue  de  Lille  A5s^ 
R.  3-10,  B.  IV4,  d^j.  3V2,  D.  4  (wine  includeei^,  T^eTi%,lyixa.^lx,\ 
H6i.  de  France  et  de  Lorraine,  Rue  de  Beaune  6,  'R.  ^-^,  r^*  A^  ^^V 
(with  wine)  2^/2,  D.  (do.)  8%  pens.  10-16  ii.-,  ♦H6l.  de  -Lotva-tes, 


10  2.   PENSIONS.  Ptdknihary 

Rue  Bonaparte  3,  R.  2-5,  B.  1,  dtfj.  2V2,  D.  2yr3  fr.  (with  idne), 
well  spoken  of;  H6t,  Bonaparte,  Rue  Bonaparte  61,  near  St  Sulplee 
and  the  Luxembourg,  R.  2  -  6  fr. ;  H6t,  des  SainU^Pires ,  Rue  dea 
Saints-Pftres  65,  R.  3-5,  L.  1/2,  A.  V2,  B.  i%  dfij.  (with  wine) 
3%  D.  (do.)  4,  pens,  from  11  fr.  j  *H6t.  du  Bon-Lafoniaine ^  Bue 
de  Grenelle  16,  R.  from  3,  B.  II/4,  d^j.  (with  wine)  31/2,  D.  (do.) 
4  fr.,  these  two  frequented  by  the  clergy.  To  the  £.,  towazdi  the 
Quartier  Latin:  H6t.  Jacob,  Rue  Jacob  44,  R.  3-6,  B.  1,  d^j.  (with 
wine)  2,  D.  (do.)  21/2,  pens.  6V2-IO  fr.;  mt.  d'Isly,  Rue  Jacob  29, 
unpretending,  R.  I72-6  f^*;  ^^t.  de  Seine,  Rue  de  Seine  52,  B.  dVs» 
B.  1,  d^j.  (with  wine)  2,  D.  (do.)  2V2,  pens.  8  fr. 

In  the  QuARTiBB  Latin  (PI.  R,  19;  V).  Grand-Hdtel  ffHareouft^ 
BouL  St.  Michel  3,  R.  from  4,  B.  1,  d^j.  3,  D.  4  fr.;  Cluny  Square, 
Boul.  St.  Michel  21,  R.  3-7 fr.;  Hot.  du  Midi,  Rue  du  Sommeiard  22, 
R.  41/2^  B.  3/4,  d^j.  or  D.  (with  wine)  21/?,  at  separate  tables  3,  pens. 
from  10  fr.;  H6t.  dea  Carmea,  Rue  des  Garmes  5,  R.  2-4 £r.,  B.  80  c, 
d^j.  or  D.  (with  wine)  3,  at  separate  tables  3V21  pens.  8-10  fr.; 
St.  Pierre,  Rue  de  rEcole-de-Mtfdecine  4,  unpretending,  B.  IVs^ 
B.  3/4,  d^j.  or  D.  (with  wine)  3fr.;  EdUl  de  Suez,  Boul.  St  Michel 31, 
R.  8,  pens.  14  fr.;  Hot.  des  Etrangers  (pension  de  famlUe),  Bne 
Racine  2,  R.  2Vr6  (monthly  30-80),  B.  1,  D.  (with  wine)  W^h.^ 
H6t.  Dacia,  Boul.  St.  Michel  41,  R.  3V2-5,  B.  1,  d^j.  or  D.  (with 
wine)  272*  pens.  9  fr.;  *H6t.  de  Constantine,  Rue  Cujaa  18,  B.  5, 
B.  1  fr.;  H6t.  du  Mont  St.  Michd,  Rue  Cujas  19. 

Near  the  Luxembouro.  H6tel  CorneUle,  Rue  Gomeille  5,  ad- 
joining the  Od^on,  R.  3-6  fr.,  d^j.  (with  wine)  2,  D.  (do.)2*/2»  pene. 
8-10  fr.;  Hot.  Malherbe,  Rue  de  Vauglrard  11,  R.  2-5,  B.3/^  dtfj. 
(with  wine)  2,  D.  (do.)  2^2  ^r. ;  H6t.  du  Luxembourg  (meubl^,  Bae 
de  Vauglrard  54,  opposite  the  Luxembourg  garden. 

Near  the  Gabb  Montpabnassb  (PI.  B,  16):  *H6t,  de  France  #  <fe 
Bretagne,  Boul.  Montparnasse  68-70;  H6t.  de  la  Marine  et  d€8  Co- 
loniea,  Boul.  Montparnasse  59,  R.  from  4,  B.  1^41  dtfj.  (with  wine) 
3,  D.  (do)  31/2,  pens.  11  fr. 


FensionB.  A  bedroom,  with  full  board,  may  be  obtained  in 
Paris  from  6-12  fr.  per  day.  The  Editor  has  reason  to  believe  that  the 
following  boarding-houses  are  at  present  (1900)  fairly  comfoitahle. 

Near  the  Arc  de  I'Etoile  and  Champs-Elys^es :  Mme.Bellot^  Carol, 
Rue  Boccador  24;  Qovars,  Rue  Lalo  6,  near  the  Boulevard  Lannes 
(6-7 fr.);  Miss  Wood,  Avenue  de  la  Grande- Arm^e 21 ;  Mme.  Duereux, 
Hue  Cardinet  52;  Pension  Levies,  Rue  Chateaubriand  18;  Pens,  Inlet' 
nationale,  Rue  Lubeok  22 bis  (8-15 fr.);  Villa  Marceau,  Avenne 
Marceau  37;  Pension  de  Famille,  Rue  de  Miromtfnil  79  (8-12  fr.); 
Pens,  de  la  Uouplilre,  Rue  de  Berri  16  (10  fr.);  Morand,  Rue  Wash- 
ington 13  (5-6  fr.);  ViUa  Balzac,  Rue  Balzac  4  (9-12  fr.);  JBavDhet^ 
Avenue  du  Trocad^ro  7  (8-12  fr.)-  Lamartine,  Avenue  Victor 
Iluffo  i75,  near  the  BoIb  de  Bouloguie  ^iO-*).Q  li,"^-,  CUa\U«^,  k.^«iraA 


Information.  3.   RESTAURANTS.  11 

de  Neuilly  168  bis  (7-12  fr.).  —  At  Passy  (p.  170):  Mme,  Nicolo,  Rue 
dcB  BeUes-Fenilles  33 ;  Villa  Nicolo,  Rue  Nlcolo  42  (71/2-10  fr.); 
Piscoty  Rue  Lafontaine  53,  for  ladies  only.  —  At  Batignolles  (PI.  G, 
12,  11,  14):  Brenningerj  Boulevard  Pereiie  69  (from  160  fr.  'per 
month). 

In  the  Inner  Town:  Pension  de  FamilUj  Rue  Montesquieu  2, 
near  the  Louvre  (7-9  fr.);  Pension  de  Famille^  01t4  Bergere  12,  near 
the  Boul.  Poissonni^re  (from  6  fr.) ;  Qroshodt^  Rue  Baudin  7,  near 
the  Square  Montholon. 

On  the  left  hank  of  the  Seine :  Van  Pelt ,  Boul.  Latour-Mau- 
hourg  4;  LailUj  Rue  des  Ecoles  41  (7-10  fr.);  Blondeau,  Rue  Gay- 
Lussac  33  (from  200  fr.  per  month). 

Lady  students  are  received  by  Mrs.  Edward  Ferris  (Amer.), 
97  Boulevard  Arago,  and  at  the  Franco-English  Ouild,  6  Rue  de  la 
Sorbonne,  firom  150  fr.  per  month  (see  p.  47). 

Furnished  Apartments  are  easily  obtained  in  all  the  principal  quar- 
ters of  Paris.  A  pellow  ticket  on  the  door  indicates  famished,  a  white 
nnfumished  rooms.  In  winter  a  famished  room  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Boulevards  costs  80-120  fr.  per  month,  a  small  saite  of  rooms  260-500  fr. ;  in 
summer  prices  are  much  lower.  Booms  near  the  Arc  de  TEtoile,  though 
perhaps  somewhat  out  of  the  way  for  a  short  stay,  are  cheaper.  Mrs.  Kirk, 
17  Bue  des  Acacias,  owns  several  small  furnished  suites,  adapted  for 
Englifih  or  American  visitors,  and  has  also  single  rooms  for  visitors  to 
the  Exhibition.  In  the  Latin  Quarter  a  single  room  may  be  obtained  for 
30-50  fr.  a  month. 

8,  BeBtaorants. 

Alphabetical  list  at  the  end  of  the  Book^  after  the  Index. 

Paris  Is  indisputably  the  cradle  of  high  culinary  art.  As  the 
ordinary  tables  d'h6te  convey  but  a  slender  idea  of  the  perfection  to 
whicb  tiie  art  is  carried,  the  ^chefs  d'ceuvre'  must  be  sought  for  in 
the  flrst-class  restaurants,  where,  however,  the  prices  are  correspond- 
ingly high. 

The  following  list  endeavours  to  mention  most  of  the  better 
restaurants  in  the  quarters  chiefly  frequented  by  strangers.  E^en 
in  the  more  modest  establishments,  however,  which  our  space  for- 
bids us  to  enumerate,  the  visitor  will  often  be  struck  by  the  dainty 
and  appetizing  way  in  which  meals  are  served. 

^Qar^on^  Vaddition,  sUl  voua  plaitl'  ^Waiter,  the  bill!'  The 
waiter  then  brings  the  account  from  the  ^dame  de  comptoir\  and 
on  receiving  payment  expects  a  ^pourboire*  of  at  least  5  c.  for  each 
frano  of  the  bill.  When  three  persons  dine  together,  it  is  sufficient 
to  double  the  above  pourboire.  In  the  chief  restaurants  and  cafes 
the  waiters  receive  no  wages,  and  in  some  cases  have  to  share  their 
gratuities  with  the  proprietors. 

At  all  but  the  most  fashionable  restaurants  a  whole  bottle  of  the 
ordinary  red  table-wine,  or  vin  ordinaire,  is  generally  ^la.^^^  ow  ^^ 
table  for  each  person.    If,  however,  the  tiaveWeii  qtsl^t^^^'^  ^Xa.x.^'^ 
that  he  on]jr  wisbea  half  a  bottle,  he  has  to  pay  oiAy  i«ciT  ^\iaX.^^^ 
eoDBvmeB,  while  a  balf^bottle  of  a  hettex  equality  may  ^ei  ciViXi»xv,e^^ 


12 


3.  RBSTAUBANTS. 


ArWifiniMify 


instead  in  cases  wheie  the  price  of  the  meal  includei  wine.  At  the 
Bmaller  restanrants  It  is  often  adTisable  to  mix  the  fin  ozdinain 
-with  water  or  mineral  water ;  the  best-known  varieties  of  the  lattai 
are  Eau  de  8elt%  (siphon  or  deml-slphon),  Eau  St.  Oalmier,  Eau  di 
Vals^  Eau  de  Vichy,  and  Apollinaris. 

The  following  list  comprises  the  names  of  the  commonest  dishes. 
The  triumphs  of  Parisian  culinary  skill  consist  in  the  different  modes 
of  dressing  fish  and  *fllet  de  bceuf ,  and  in  the  preparation  of  'fri- 
candeans*,  ^mayonnaises',  and  sauces. 


1.  PoTAOEs  (Soaps). 
Potage  au  vertnicelle,  yermicelli  soup. 
Pdte  d*IiaUe,  soup  with  maccaroni. 
Potagt  d  la  JuUenney  soup  containing 

finely-cut  vegetables. 
Consommi  aux    cmfs  poehis,   broth 

with  poached  eggs. 
Potage  d  la  printtmiire ,  soup  made 

with  early  vegetables. 
CroHLte  atf  pot,  broth  with  pieces  of 

toast. 
BUque,  crab  or  lobster  soup. 
Potage  St.  Oermain,  pea  soup. 
Potage  PaitneiUier,  potatoe  soup. 
OseilU  lUe,  soup  flavoured  with  sorrel. 
Cressonih'e,  soup  with  water-cress. 
Soupe  au  c/iottx,  soup  witU  bread  and 

cabbage. 
Soupe  (k  Voignon,   soup  with  onion, 

bread,  and  grated  cheese. 

2.  Hobs  d''<xuybb. 

AndouilU^  beef-sausage. 
Concombres,  cucumber  salad. 
Cornie/ions,  pickled  cucumbers. 
ffareng  Sauer^  smoked  herring  in  oil. 
7%o»,  tunny-flsh. 
RadU,  radishes. 
JfuitreSy  oysters. 
Saucisson,  sliced  sausage. 
Escargots^  snails. 
OrenouilU*,  legs  of  frogs. 

3.  B<xDr  (beeO- 

Boeuf  au  naturel,  or  houiUi,  boiled 
beef. 

Boeuf  dt  la  mode,  stewed  beef. 

Beefsteak^  or  biftek  aux  pommes^  beef- 
steak with  potatoes  (Men  euit, 
well-done;  ttaignant^  underdone). 

Chdteaubriandy  Porterhouse  steak. 

Filet  aux  truffea,  fillet  of  beef  with 
trufifles. 

Bosbif,  roast  beef. 

Aloyeau,  sirloin  of  beef,  well  done. 

4.  MoDTON  (mutton). 
Cd/eMU  pan49f   cnlletA  with  bread- 
crumba. 


Sells  d^agneauy  saddle  of  mutton. 
Oigot  de  mouton  or  de  pri'talS,  leg 

of  mutton. 
Ragout  de  moui<m  or  IfavaHm  mux 

pommes,  mutton  with  potatoes  and 

onion-sauce. 
Blanquette  d:*agntau,fric%aa6t  of  lamb. 

5.  VxAU  (real). 
Ris  de  veau,  sweetbreads. 
FHeandeau  de  veau,  slices  of  larded 

roast-yeal. 
Blanquette  de  veau,  fricassee  of  YeaL 
Foie  de  veau,  calTs-liyer. 
Rognons  de  veauy  veal  kidneys  (d  Is 

brochette,  roasted  on  a  skewer). 
Veau  rdtiy  roast  veal. 
Tete  de  veau,  calfs-head ;  h  la  vinai' 

grette,  with  oil  and  vinegar. 
Ris  de  veau,  sweetbreads. 
Cet'velle    de   veau   au   beurre    rntir, 

calfs-brains  with  brown  sauce. 

6.  PoBo  (pork). 

Pieds  de  pore  A  la  Ste.  Menehoutd, 

pig^s  pettitoes  seasoned. 
Pore  rdti,  roast  pork. 

7.  VoLAiLLB  (poultry). 

Chapon,  capon. 

Poulet,  chicken,  prepared  in  various 
ways.  Un  quart  de  poulet,  enough 
for  one  person,  and  even  for  two 
persons  at  the  large  restaurants. 
IVaile  ou  la  cuUeet  the  wing  or 
the  leg?  the  former  being  rather 
dearer). 

Croquette  devolaille,CToqueii9  of  fowL 

Canard  aux  navett,  duck  with  young 
turnips. 

Caneton,  duckling. 

Caneton  h  la  preue,  duckling  eooked 
on  a  chafing-dish  in  presence  of 
the  guest,  with  the  juice  of  the 
carcase  squeezed  out  by  a  silver 
press. 

Oie,  goose. 

Dindon,  dinde,  turkey;  dindonn%au, 
I     -young  tni\Le,^  \  farc*^  stuffed. 
\  Pigeon,  pif^eou. 


Information, 


3.  RESTAUBANTS. 


13 


8.  GiBiKB  (game). 
PerdtHx^  partridge  (aux  ehoux,  with 

cabbage  and  sausages). 
PerdreauXt  young  partridges. 
Caille*  quai]. 

Filet  ae  ehevreuU,  roast  venison. 
Civet  de  liivre.  jugged  hare. 
SanffUer,  wild  boar. 
Lc^n  de  garenne^  wild  rabbit. 

9.  PiTISSBBIX. 

Pdti^  meat-pie.  ^ 

Pdti  de  foie  grae  anx  truffee^  a  kind 

of  paste  of  goose-liver  and  trulfles. 
Vol-aU'Vent,  light  pastry  with  meat, 

fowl,  oysters,  etc. 

10.  PoissoN  (fish). 
Saumtm^  salmon ;  fvmi^  smoked. 
Sole^  sole  (/W<«,  fried  5  au  vin  blane, 

with  wine  sauce  5  au  gratin,  baked). 

Umande^  a  kind  of  flat  fish. 

Broehety  pike. 

Carpe^  carp. 

Angwlley  eel. 

Turboty  turbot. 

Raie ,  skate  (an  beurre  noir ,  with 
brown  sauce). 

Gotvon^  gudgeon. 

Eperlanty  smelts. 

Merlan^  whiting. 

Rouget^  red  mullet. 

Maquereau^  mackerel. 

TruUe^  trout-,  truiU  saumonie ^  sal- 
mon-trout. 

Matelote  d'anguilleSy  stewed  eels. 

Morue.,  cod. 

Moule*^  mussels. 

£crevi$se$^  crabs. 

Homardy  lobster. 

0revette9i  shrimps. 

11.  Salaobs  (salads). 
Salade  de  eaieon ,  salad  according  to 

the  season. 
Laitue  (pommie)y  lettuce-salad. 
Chieorie,  endive-salad. 
Creston^  water-cress. 
Piesenlity  dandelion  salad. 
Pommee  de  terre  &  Thuile,  potatoe  salad. 
Salade  romainey  Eecarole,  mixed  salads 

(/aire  la  salade^  make  the  salad). 

12.  LiouMxs  (vegetables). 

ZenHllee,  lentils. 

Atpergesy  asparagus. 

ArHdtauUy  artichokes. 

P§HU  poieygreea  peas(att  &eiMre,with 
hatter-eauce  jfur^e  de  poit,  mash- 
ed peMS). 


Baricots  verts,  small    green  beans, 
Frendi  beans ;  haricots  blanes^  fiag- 
eoleU^  or  so/moim,  white  beans. 
ChtmXy  cabbages  \  choux  fleurs,  cauli 
flowers ;  choux  fleurs  au  grating  bak- 
ed cauliBower  with  grated  cheese, 
etc.;  choux  blancs.  white  cabbages; 
choux  raves,  kohl-rabi-,  choux  de 
BruxelleSy  Brussels  sprouts;  ehou- 
croute,    pickled   cabbage   {gamie, 
with  lard  and  sausages). 
Aubergine,  mad-apple,  egg-plant. 

apes.  Champignons y  mushrooms. 

Pomm««,  potatoes  (it  is  not  customary 
to  add  de  terre). 

Pommes  /rites,  fried  potatoes.         ^ 

Pommes  sauties,  potatoes  stewed  m 
butter.  ■ 

Pommes  4  la  maitre  d*h6tel,  poUtoes 
with  butter  and  parsley. 

Purie  de  pommes,  mashed  potatoes. 

Epinards,  spinach. 

Oseille,  sorrel. 

Carottes,  carrots. 

Navets,  turnips. 

Betteraves,  beetroot. 

Oignons,  onions. 

Tomates,  tomatoes. 

13.  Bntbbubts  SucBfts  (sweet  dishes). 

Omelettes  of  various  kinds  (au  naturel, 
au  Sucre,  soufflie,  aux  confitures, 
aux  fines  hei'bes,  au  rhim,  etc.). 

Beignets,  fritters. 

Charlotte  de  pommes,  stewed  apples. 

Crime  a  la  vanille,  vanilla-cream. 

Nougat,  candied  almond-cake. 

Tarte,  tart. 


14.  Dbssbbt. 

Various  kinds  of  fruit. 

Meringue  it  la  crime,  cream-tarts. 

Par/ait  au  ea/i,  coflfee-ice. 

The  usual  varieties  of  cheese  are: 

Fromage  fd  la  ci'ime)  Suisse  or  Oer- 

vais,  Coeur  erhncy  cream-cheese. 
Fromage  de  Gruytre^  Gruyfere  cheese. 
Fromage  de  Neu/chdtel  (Normandy), 

Neufchatel  cheese. 
Fromage    de    Roque/ort    (Aveyron), 

green  cheese  made  of  a  mixture 

of  sheep's  milk  and  goat's  milk. 
Camemberi,  Paul  VEv^que,  kinds  of 

cheese  made  in  Jlormandy. 

15.  Wines. 
The  finer  vrinfea  ^xVu^-V^iSVl  ^^  ^1^^ 

St,  Emilion  anil  St.  JuUeu  ^^^•:^^ 
Chateau  Lavose,    Ch.  Latouv  .  ^^<^ 


14  3.   RBSTAUBANTS.  lV«UiiiliMff 

2Vs  fr.) ,  Mem-tatOt  (3-4  fr.),   JfMf- 
raehtt  (4  fr.),  and  Hfmiiagt  (6fr.). 


C%.  ia//I««  (6-8  fr.).  White  Bor- 
deaux: Qrave*  (3-5  fr.),  Sauttme* 
(3-4  fr.X  CAd<eau  d'Yquem  (6-10  fr.) 
—  Red  Burgundy :  Btavne  (2Y«4  fr.), 
Ponwiardy  Volnap,  Nuitt  (4-6  fr.), 
Romania  and  CAomftcfMn  (5-8  fr.). 
White   Burgundy:     ChahlU    (IV2- 


TfaafM  de  Champagnt^  a  light  kind  of 
champagne,  iced  and  ierred  is 
carafes  during  warm  weathfr. 

Vin  frappi^  wine  in  ioe. 

Caraft  SrappUy  carafd  of  ieed  water. 


The  bread  of  Paris  is  excellent  and  has  been  famed  since  the  14th  eentwy. 

a.  BestaurantB  of  the  Higheit  ClasB. 

In  the  most  fashionable  restaurants  meals  are  served  only  ft  la 
carlt^  and  evening  dress  is  expected.  The  portions  are  generally 
80  ample,  that  one  portion  suffices  for  two  perions,  01  two  portioni 
for  three.  The  visitor  should,  therefore,  avoid  dining  alone.  It  ii 
even  allowable  to  order  one  portion  for  three  persons.  The  waiter 
is  always  ready  to  give  information  on  this  point,  af  well  as  to 
facilitate  a  selection  from  the  voluminous  bill  of  fare  by  naming 
the  ^'plais  du  jour.  The  %or8  d'auvre'  placed  on  the  table  at  the 
beginning  of  a  meal,  while  the  soup  is  being  prepared ,  genertUy 
add  1-2  fr.  per  head  to  the  bill,  if  not  expressly  declined.  The 
exquisite  fruit  offered  for  dessert  is  also  a  costly  luxury,  as  much 
as  3-5  fr.  being  sometimes  charged  for  a  single  peach  or  pear. 
Various  'spedalties'  and  rarities  are  also  very  expencive.  —  The 
restaurants  mentioned  immediately  below  enjoy  the  highest  re- 
putation for  their  cuisine  and  cellar.  The  bill  for  a  small  dinner 
for  three  persons,  consisting  of  soup,  fish,  entree,  loast,  salad,  and 
dessert,  with  a  couple  of  bottles  of  fair  wine,  will  probably  amount 
to  at  least  40-50  fr. 

In  the  Western  Boulevards  and  the  streets  between  them  and 
the  Rue  de  Rivoli:  *PaUlard,  Rue  de  la  Chauss^e-d'Antin  2  and 
Boul.  de3  Italiens  38  (PI.  R,  21;  II);  *Bitz  Hotel  (p.  3J,  Place 
Vend6m3  15;  *Cafi  AnglaU,  Boul.  des  Italiens  13,  S.  side;  ^Re- 
staurant de  Marivaux  (Joseph) ,  Bue  de  Marivaux  9,  opposite  the 
Op^ra  Comique  (PI.  R,  21 ;  //);  •Voism^  Rue  St.  Honortf  261  and 
Rue  Gambon  16  (PI.  R,  18;  //),  a  long-established  house,  excellent 
wine;  Maiaon  Dorie,  Rue  Laffltte  1,  at  the  corner  of  the  Boul.  des 
Italiens  (PI.  R,  B,  21) ;  *Durand^  Place  de  la  Madeleine  2,  E.  side 
(PI.  R,  18;  //);  •Cafi  de  Paris,  Avenue  de  I'Opfira  41,  W.  side; 
'^Cafi  de  la  Paix,  Boul.  des  Capucines  12,  N.  side  (PI.  R,  18;  II)\ 
*  Larue  y  Place  de  la  Madeleine  3,  W.  side;  *Caf6  Riche^  Bonl.  des 
Italiens  16,  N.  side  (PI.  R,  21;  //);  *Mairey  farther  to  the  E., 
Boul.  St.  Denis  14-18  and  Boul.  de  Strasbourg  1.  —  The  *Re9taiurant 
Prunier,  Rue  Daphot  9,  to  the  S.  of  the  Madeleine  (PI.  R,  18;  11)^ 
is  famous  for  its  oysters  (closed  in  summer). 

The  restaurants  in  the  Ohamps-Elys^es  and  the  Bois  de  Bou- 
logne are  chiefly  frequented  in  summer.  —  GHAMFS-ELTsins :  *P(i- 
villon  PaiUard,  a  branch  of  the  house  above  mentioned  (Pi.  R,  16 ; 
yyj,-  *Laurentj  adjacent    *i2«8taurant  du  Rond-Poiiit  (CKeviUard;, 


InformaUon.  3.   RESTAURANTS.  15 

Rond-Point  des  Ohamps-Elystfes  4  (P1.R,16;  //);  *Ledoyen^  to  the 
£.  of  the  Petit  Palais  des  Beanx-Arts;  Re$iaurant  dea  Ambassa- 
deurs,  opposite  the  last.  —  Bois  db  Box7Loone  :  *Caf£  de  Madrid^ 
hy  the  Porte  de  Madrid  (p.  162);  *PavilUm  d'Armenonville^  to  the 
E.  of  the  main  entrance  of  the  Jardin  d'Acclimatation,  pleasantly 
situated;  CafS  de  la  Ccuecide,  near  the  Cascade  (p.  161);  Pavilion 
ChinoUy  near  the  Porte  Danphine ,  at  the  end  of  the  Avenue  da 
Bois-dn-Boulogne. 

b.  Other  BeBtaurantB. 

The  following  list  contains  many  restaurants  nearly  or  quite  as 
good  as*  those  above  mentioned,  along  with  others  of  a  less  preten- 
tions character.  The  best  Restaurants  d.  la  Carte  are  described  below 
as  *flrst-class*.  Those  who  prefer  it  may  procure  a  whole  meal, 
including  wine  (claret,  sauteme,  or  Burgundy),  at  a  fixed  charge  in 
one  of  the  Restaurants  ct  Prix  Fixey  the  prices  of  which  are  generally 
posted  up  outside.  In  some  instances  tickets  for  the  meal  are  bought 
at  the  door  on  entering.  As  quantity  rather  than  quality  has  to  be 
attended  to  in  those  resorts ,  the  cuisine ,  though  often  very  fair, 
does  not  vie  with  that  of  the  d  la  carte  houses.  At  these  table  d'h6te 
meals,  the  dishes  are  apt  to  be  fresher  and  more  appetizing  the 
earlier  one  goes  within  the  prescribed  hours  (see  below). 

The  BouiUons  Duval  and  Bouiflons  Boulant  are  restaurants  2i 
la  carte  of  a  cheaper  kind,  managed  in  a  peculiar  way.  As  in  the 
case  of  the  'dtners  h  prix  fixe',  the  number  of  dishes  to  choose  from 
is  limited.  The  food  is  generally  good,  but  the  portions  are  rather 
small,  and  each  dish,  bottle  of  wine ,  and  even  bread  is  reckoned 
separately.  The  guests  are  waited  on  by  women,  soberly  garbed, 
and  not  unlike  sisters  of  charity.  These  houses  are  very  popular 
with  the  middle  and  even  upper  classes,  and  may  without  hesitation 
be  visited  by  ladies.  Each  guest  on  entering  is  furnished  with  a 
card  (fiehej,  on  which  the  account  is  afterwards  marked. 

Usual  charges:  serviette  5,  bread  10,  carafon  of  wine  20, 
Y2  bottle  50,  *demi-siphon'  of  aerated  water  15,  soup  25,  meat,  fish, 
etc.,  30-60,  vegetables  25  c;  the  charge  for  an  ordinary  dinner 
will,  therefore,  amount  to  2-2^2  f^ •  or  upwards.  A  fee  of  15-  20  c. 
is  left  on  the  table  for  attendance ;  the  bill  is  then  paid  at  the  desk 
and  receipted,  and  is  finally  given  up  to  the  'contrdleur'  at  the  door. 

Beer  is  not  usually  served  at  restaurants ,  except  those  known 
as  Brasseries  or  Tavernes  (comp.,  however,  pp.  20,  21). 

Dijeuner  is  generally  served  from  12.30  or  12  to  1  or  at  latest  1.30  p.m. ; 
Dinner  (Diner)  from  6.30  or  7  to  8  or  8.30  p.m.  At  other  hours  little  can 
be  had  except  cold  viands. 

1.   Restaurants  in  or  near  the  Boulevards. 
We  begin  at  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  and  IoWq^  VXife^ov^^^- 
vards  from  W.  to  E.  —la  the  Rub  Royale  (;P\.B.,V^\  U^*-  ^^."^^ 
Maxim's  Bar^  an  elegantly  fitted  up  restauxaTit,  iTft\TL«^^.«k^  \a^v\1 


16  3.  RESTAURANTS.  JhMmimarf 

at  night  (for  gentlemen  only);  No.  21,  *  Weber's  Cafi-BeMtammU 
Anglais  (also  English  beer) ;  No.  25,  Taveme  RoyaU  (Munich  beer); 
No.  31,  BouiUon  Duval;  No.  41,  *Cafi  de  Paris,  these  all  on  the 
W.  side.  No.  14,  E.  side,  at  the  comer  of  the  Rne  St.  Honoftf, 
Darraa  (*prix  flxe';  d^j.  3,  D.  6  fr.).  —  Lucas  le  Qrand,  Place  de 
la  Madeleine  9,  flrst-class ;  *Luca8  le  Petit  (or  Taveme  iin^lalM), 
Rue  Boissy-d'Anglas  28.  —  BouiUon  Duval,  Bonl.  de  la  Made- 
leine 21,  E.  side  of  the  Place  de  la  Madeleine. 

BouLEYABD  DBS  Gafuoinbs  (PL  R,  18 ;  //) :  No.  39,  S.  side, 
BouiUon  Duval;  No.  3,  S.  side.  Restaurant  Julien;  No.  14,  N.  side, 
Grand  CafS;  No.  4,  N.  side,  Cafe  AmMeain,  —  To  the  S.  of  the 
Boul.  des  Capncines:  Taveme  deVOpira  (Munich  beer),  Avenae  de 
I'Op^ia  26;  Brasserie  Universelle  (Munich  beer),  at  the  comer  of  the 
Rue  des  Petits-Ghamps ,  good  and  moderate;  Restaurant  OailUm, 
Rue  St.  Augnstin,  to  the  E.  of  the  ATenue  de  T  Opera.  —  To  the  N. 
of  the  Boul.  des  Gapucines :  Sylvain  (Tavemier)^  Rue  Hal^yy  12 
and  Rue  de  la  Ghauss^e-d'Antln  9. 

BouLBVABD  DES  Italibns  (PI.  R,  21 J  //) :  No.  14,  N.  Bide,  Ta- 
veme Pousset  (Munich  beer);  No.  29,  S.  side,  BouiUon  Duval; 
No.  27,  D^ner  Fran^ais  {Table  d'Hdte  Excoffier;  d^j.  3,  D.4fir.); 
No.  9,  Orand  Restaurant  Universel  (ddj.  2,  D.  3  fr.).  —  To  the  S.  of 
the  Boul.  des  Italiens:  Edouard  (Taveme  de  Londres),  Place  Bolel- 
dleu  1,  adjoining  the  Op^ra  Gomique;  *Noel- Peters,  Passage  del 
Princes  24-30 ,  near  the  Rue  de  Richelieu ;  Restaurant  Richelieu, 
Rue  de  Richelieu  104,  with  summer  and  winter  gardens  (d^j.  2Ys, 
D.  3  fr.). 

BouLBVABu  MoNTMABTBB  (Pi.  R,  21;  ///) :  No.  21,  S.  side, 
BouiUon  Duval;  No.  12,  N.  side,  *Dtner  de  Paris,  an  old-established 
house  (d^j.  2V2,  D.  31/2  fr.;  also  ^  la  carte);  No.  10,  N.  side,  by  the 
Passage  Jouffroy,  Restaurant  de  la  Terrasse  Jouffroy  (dtf j.  3,  D.  5  fr.)j 
No.  8,  *Restaurant  de  Vichy  (d^j.  3,  D.  31/2  fr.) ;  No.  6,  Brasserie 
Muller  et  Blaisot  (Munich  beer) ;  No.  1,  Bouillon  Boulant,  —  To  the 
N.  of  the  Boul.  Montmartre :  Taveme  Montmartre  (see  p.  21).  — 
To  the  S.  of  the  Boul.  Montmartre:  Restaurant  de  la  Bourse  (dtfj. 
1 1/2,  I>.  2  fr.)»  Restaurant  des  Finances  (d^j.  I8/4,  D.  3  fr.),  Rue  Vi- 
vienne  47  and  45 ;  Champeaux  (Catelain),  Place  de  la  Bourse  13, 
opposite  the  Exchange,  flrst-class,  with  garden ;  Restaurant  du  Com" 
merce,  Passage  des  Panoramas  25  (1  fr.  25,  1  fr.  60  c.  and  2  fr.); 
Table  d^Hdte  Bouillod,  Passage  des  Panoramas,  Galerie  Montmartre  6 
(d^j.  2,  D.  3  fr.);  Aldegani  (Italian  cuisine  and  wine),  Passage  dei 
Panoramas,  Galerie  Montmartre  10;  Ville  de  Paris,  Rue  Montmartre 
170  (d^j.  13/4,  D.  3  fr.);  Taveme  d'Artois,  same  street  166  (d^j.  2V2» 
D.  3  fr.). 

BouLEYABD  PoissoNNiEBE  (Pi.  R,  21 ;  III) :  No.  24 ,  N.  side, 

Brur^eaux  (d^j.  3,  D.  4  fr.);  No.  16,  *Rougemont,  at  the  corner  of 

theRneRougemont;  No.  2,  Bc«taurant  PoUaoTvni^Te  (l)utlo%)^^VwL%- 


JnformaUon,  3.   RESTAURANTS.  17 

established  house;  No.  11,S.  side,  Bouillon  Duval;  No.  9,  Restau- 
rant de  France^  good  and  moderate. 

BouLETARD  BoNNE-NoTrvBLLB  (PI.  R,  24;  III),  No.  36,  N.  Bide, 
^Margueryy  adjoining  the  Theatre  du  Gymnase,  a  flrst-olass  restan- 
rant  a  la  carte,  frequented  by  merchants ;  No.  26,  Reitaurant  Bcrme- 
Nouvelle  (Reneaux;  dej.  I3/4,  D.  3  fr.);  No.  35,  S.  side,  Brasterie 
MuUer  et  BlaUot  (Munich  beer).  —  To  the  N.  of  the  Boul.  Bonne- 
Nouvelle :  Widermannj  Rue  d'Hauteville  (Vienna  beer  and  cuisine) ; 
Restaurant  Jung,  Rue  des  Petites-Eeuiies  37  (the  third  street 
parallel  -with  the  Boulevard). 

2.  Bestauranta  near  the  Jardin  dee  Tuileries  and  the  Loavre. 

In  the  Rub  db  Rivoli  (PL  R,  18, 20 ;  /i),  beginning  at  the  W.  end : 
No.  3,  *Rt9taurant  de  I'Hdtel  Continental  (p.  3),  comer  of  the  Rue  de 
Castiglione,  handsomely  fitted  up, with  caftf  (dtfj.  5,  D.7  fr.) ;  No.  172, 
corner  uf  the  Place  du  Palais-Royal,  *Re9taurant  du  Or,  Hdtel  du 
Louvre  (p.  3 ;  d^j.  5,  D.  6  fr.,  incl.  wine) ;  No.  194,  at  the  corner  of 
the  small  Place  des  Pyramid es.  Bouillon  Duval.  Brcuserie  des  Pyra- 
mides  (Munich  beer).  Rue  des  Pyramides  3,  near  the  last. 

In  the  Plaob  dxt  Palais-Royal  (entr.  Rue  St.  Honors  202,  1st 
floor),  *Lion,  a  large  but  unpretending  *prix  fixe'  house,  with 
reading  and  writing  room  (d^j.  IV2)  ^'  2,  with  a  glass  of  cham^ 
pagne  3  fr.). 

Palais-Royal  (p.  60;  PI.  R,  21,  J/).  In  the  first  half  of  the 
19th  century  the  restaurants  here  were  the  most  fashionable  in  Paris. 
Their  importance  has,  however,  long  since  disappeared,  though 
their  proximity  to  the  Louvre  still  attracts  a  number  of  strangers. 
—  Galerie  Montpensier  (W.  side,  pleasantest  on  summer  afternoons, 
because  in  the  shade) :  No.  12,  Cafi  Corazza-Douix  (Delahre),  first- 
class  ;  No.  23,  Restaurant  de  Paris  (L.  Catelain ;  dtfj.  2,  D.  21/2  f'O ; 
No.  40,  Vidrequinj  unpretending  but  very  fair  (d^j.  1  fr.  15  or  1,25  c , 
D.  IV2  or  2fr.).  —  Galerie  Beai^olais  (N.  side,  near  the  Thtf&tre 
du  Palais-Royal) ;  No.  79,  Grand  Vifour  (ddrj.  3,  D.  5  fr.).  —  Galerie 
de  Valois  (E.  side):  No.  105,  Table  d'H6te  Philippe,  very  fair  (dfl. 
1  fr.  60 ,  D.  2  fr.  10  c.) ;  No.  108 ,  V^four  Jeune  (d^j.  3 ,  D.  4  fr. ; 
also  I  la  carte) ;  No.  142,  Tavemier  Atni  (^Arviset;  d^j.  2,  D.  21/2  f'-) ; 
No.  173,  ^Restaurant  Valois  (d^j.3,  D.  4fr.).  —  Galerie  d'OrMans 
(S.  side) :  CafS  d'Orliarhs. 

To  THE  E.  OP  THE  Palais-Royal  (PI.  R,  21 ;  //,  ///) :  *Au  Boeuf 
h  la  Mode,  Rue  de  Valois  8,  at  the  E.  exit  of  the  Galerie  d'Orl^ans ; 
Bouillon  Duval,  Rue  Montesquieu  6  (the  chief  house  of  this  com- 
pany, and  the  only  one  with  male  attendants). 

8.  Befttaurante  to  the  X.  and  N.E.  of  the  Louvre. 
The  following  restaurants  are  convenient  for  vVivl^yta  \.o  VJsv'^^'bX.^ 
de  Ville,  the  Mus^e  Oaraavalet,  the  Conseiva-toite  ^^^  kt^a  ^v."^^- 
\ieTB,  etc. 

Bamdxkbb,  Pans.   Uth  Edit.  % 


18  3.  RESTAURANTS.  Prtlkninafy 

To  THE  E.  OF  THB  LoTTTBB ,  towaids  the  Plao6  de  la  Bastille: 
Bouillons  DuvcUj  Rae  da  Pont-Neuf  10,  Rue  deRivolii?,  and  Bue 
St.  Antoine  234;  Brasserie  Dreher,  Rae  St.  Denis  1  (Place  da  Ghite- 
let) ;  Restaurant  de  Paris^  Bool,  de  S^astopol  30  (d6j.  1  fr.  80- 
2fr.  25  c,  D.  2-272^^0}  Taveme  Qrubef ,  Bool.  BeaumaTchaU  1, 
neai  the  Place  de  la  Bastille  (D.  3  fr.,  with  coffee). 

To  THB  N.E.  OF  THB  LouYBB ,  towaids  the  Place  de  la  Rtfpab- 
liqae :  BouiUons  Duval ,  Rue  de  Turbigo  3  (near  the  Halles  Cen- 
trales), Rue  de  Turhigo  46  (near  the  Rue  St.  Martin),  and  Place  de  la 
R6pubUque  17;  BonvaUt,  Boul.  du Temple  29-31  (d^j.  23/*,  D. 3 Vs fr. ; 
also  k  la  carte).  Near  the  Oonservatoire  des  Arts  et  Metiers :  Bestau- 
rant  du  Plat-d'Etain^  Rue  St.  Martin  326,  a  long-estahlished  house, 
frequented  by  provincial  merchants.  —  Boulevard  St  Martin :  No.  16, 
Restaurant  du  Cerele  (d^j.  I3/4,  D.  2^/2  fr.) ;  No.  55,  Orand  ButaU" 
rant  de  la  PorU-St- Martin  (dtfj.  1  fr.  15-1  fr.  50  c. ,  D.  1 1/4  -  2  ft.). 
—  LecomUj  entrance  Rue  de  Bondy  48,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Bool. 
St.  Martin  (dfl.  2V2»  D«  3  fr.,  with  coffee;  also  a  la  carte). 

4.  BeBtavranti  near  the  Railway  Stations. 

Ga&b  St.  Lazabb  (PI.  B,  18) :  Railway  Refreshment  Rooms,  ad- 
joining the  Gour  du  Havre ;  *Restaurant  du  TerminuSy  at  the  hotel 
(p.  3 ;  dtfj. 5,  D.  6 fr.) ;  CafS  Scossa,  Place deRome (dtfj .  2V2,  I>.  8 fr.) ; 
Restaurant  de  C Europe,  Rue  Pasquier  (dtfj.  1  fr.  90,  D.  2  ft.  26  c); 
Restaurant  Modems,  Rue  du  Havre  11  (d^j.2,  0.21/2^0;  B^*^^,  at 
the  comer  of  the  Rue  St.  Lazare  and  Rue  d' Amsterdam  (dtfj.  2,  D. 
2^2  f'O;  Restaurant  du  Havre,  Rue  St.  Lazare  109  and  Place  du 
Havre  (dtfj.  I8/4,  D.  2  fr.) ;  BouiUons  Duval,  Place  du  Havre  12,  and 
at  the  comer  of  the  Rues  de  Rome  and  de  la  P^piniere ;  Au  Rigent, 
Rue  St.  Lazare  100  (dtfj.  1  fr.  60  c,  D.  2  fr.).  —  Brasserie  MoUari 
(^Munich  beer),  Rue  St  Lazare  115,  opposite  the  Terminus  HoteL 

Gabb  DX7  NoBD  (PI.  B,  24):  Railway  Refreshment  Rooms,  to  the 
right  of  the  main  entrance ;  Lequen,  Boulevard  de  Denain  9 ;  Barbotte, 
Rue  de  Dunkerque25,  opposite  the  station,  well  spoken  of;  BouUUm 
Duval,  at  the  comer  of  the  Boulevard  Magenta  and  the  Rue  Lafayette. 

Gabb  de  l'Est  (PI.  B,  24) :  ^Restaurant  Schaeffer,  at  the  H6tel 
Fran^als  (p.  9),  Rue  de  Strasbourg  13;  Bouillon  Duval,  Rue  de 
Strasbourg  6. 

Gabb  Montpabnassb,  see  p.  19. 

5.  Rastanranti  in  the  Ohamps-Elysiei  and  the  Bois  de  Bonlogiie. 

Betides  the  first-class  establishments  (p.  14)  the  following  leu 
pretentious  restaurants  may  be  mentioned. 

In  or  near  the  Ghamps-Elys^es  :   Taveme  du  Cirque,  Avenne 

Matignon  1,  near  the  Rond-Point;  *Restaurant  d'Albe,  Avenue  d« 

Ohamps-Elystfes  101,  corner  of  the  Avenue  de  TAlma  (d6j.  4  and  6, 

I>.  S  and  7  fr,);  Cafi' Restaurant  du  Roeher^  Avenue  de  TAliiwd, 

P/sce  de  rAlma  (d^j.  2%  D.  3  fr.y 


Information.  3.   RESTAURANTS.  19 

In  or  near  the  Bois  db  Boulogne  :  ^Orande  Brasserie  de  VEs- 
pirance^  Avenue  de  la  Grande- Arm^e  86  (d^J.  21/2,  D.  3^^  fr.); 
Restaurant  Oillet,  Avenne  de  Nenilly  25,  near  the  Porte  Maillot, 
with  caftf ;  Cafi  Dehouve,  Avenne  de  NeuUly  93  (dtfj.  21/2,  I>.  3  fr. ; 
also  I  la  carte);  Chalet  du  Touring  Chib,  near  the  Porte  Maillot 
(d^j.  31/2)  I>.  4  fr.);  Oaftf-Restanrant  of  the  Jardin  drAeclimatation 
{p.  162);  Chalets  du  CyeUj  to  the  E.  of  the  Hippodrome,  near  the 
Pont  de  Snresnes,  a  great  resort  of  cyclists. 

6.  Bestauranta  on  the  Left  Bank. 

In  the  OxTABTiBB  St.  Gbbmain  (p.  219 ;  PI.  R,  17,  J/,  IV) :  •i2«- 
staurant  Blot,  Rne  de  Lille  33,  near  the  Rue  dn  Bac.  —  In  the 
Bonleyard  St.  Germain:  No.  229,  Cafi-Restaurant  des  Minisikres^ 
adjoining  the  Ministry  of  War  (d^j.  3  fr.,  D.  3  and  4  fr.);  No.  262, 
opposite  the  last,  Cafi-Restaurant  de  la  LSgion  d^Honneur  (d^j.  2^2) 
D.  3  fr.);  No.  90,  Bouillon  St.  Oermain  (d6j.  i%  D.  2fr.).  —  Re- 
staurant 8te,  Chtilde,  Square  Ste.  Glotilde,  unpretending  (d^J. 
1  fr.  60  or  2fr.  10  c,  D,  l»/4-2V4  ^'0-  —  Restaurants  of  the  Ex- 
hibition of  1900,  see  our  special  guide. 

Near  the  Gabb  Mozttpabnasse  (p.  288 ;  PL  G,  R,  16) :  ^Lavenue, 
Rue  dn  Depart  1,  to  the  left  of  the  station,  first-class  ;  Cafi-Restau- 
rant de  Versailles^  Rue  de  Rennes  171,  opposite  the  station  (ddrj.  2^/2, 
D.  3  fr.);  Restaurant  Lion,  Rue  de  Rennes  161  (d^J.  1  fr.  30c., 
D.  3  fr.) ;  Restaurant  de  Bretagne,  same  street  146  (dtfj.  2%  D.  3  fr.). 

In  or  near  the  Quabtibb  Latin  (p. 219:  PI.  R,  19,  V) :  Taveme 
du  Palais,  Place  St.  Michel  6  (dfij.  21/2,  D.  3  fr.) ;  *Lapirouse,  Quai 
des  Grands- Augustins  61 ,  near  the  Pont-Neuf.  —  Boulevard  St. 
Michel:  No.  25,  E.  side,  Cafi-Restaurant  Soufflet;  No.  61,  Restau- 
rant Moret  (d6j.  1  fr.  15  c. ,  D.  2  fr.) ;  No.  26 ,  W.  side ,  Bouillon 
Duval;  No.  34,  Bouillon Boulant,  —  Near  the  Luxembourg :  *Foyot, 
Rue  de  Yaugirard  22  bis  and  Rue  de  Tournon  33,  first-class,  much 
frequented  after  the  performances  in  the  Theatre  de  POd^on ;  Cafi- 
Restaurant  Voltaire,  Place  de  TOd^on  1  (d6j.  3,  D.  Aft.), 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Jabdikdbs  Plantbs  and  the  old  Gare  d'Or- 
Itfans:  ^Restaurant  de  la  Tour-d' Argent,  Quai  de  la  Tournelle  15 
and  Boulevard  St.  Germain,  first-class ;  Cafi  de  V  Arc-en-  Cid,  Boule- 
vard de  rH6pital  2  (H  la  carte  and  a  prix  fixe ;  D.  3  ft.). 

4.   Caf^s.  Brasseries.  Confectioners. 

Gaftfs  form  one  of  the  specialties  of  Paris,  and  some  of  them 
should  be  visited  by  the  stranger  T^ho  desires  to  see  Parisian  life  in 
all  its  phases.  An  hour  or  two  may  be  pleasantly  spent  in  sitting 
at  one  of  the  small  tables  with  which  the  pavements  in  front  of  the 
caf^  on  the  Boulevards  are  covered  on  summer  -  eveQlu^%  ^  «xA 
watching  the  passing  throng.  Most  of  the  PaxiBian  m^Ti  s^^\A^^V^ 
evenings  at  the  csUa,  where  they  partake  ot  cotter,  Ws^vifirai^  ^  w^^ 
ieea,  meet  their  fnends,  read  the  newspapeis,  oi^\vj  ^\\i\XNN»x^% 

0.* 


20  4.   OAF^S.  PteUminarf 

(50  c.-l  fr.  20  c.  per  lii.)  oi  o&ids.  The  caf^s  on  the  Ghrands  Boule- 
vards, howeyei,  with  the  exception  of  the  Grand  OM  in  the  BovL 
dcB  Gapncines,  generally  haTe  no  hllliard-tablei.  Lettera  may  alio 
be  conveniently  written  at  a  caftf,  the  waiter  Aimishing  wzitlii^ 
materials  on  application  Qpour  icrirCj  a'il  voum  plait' ;  fee).  Mort 
of  the  caf<$s  are  well  furnished  with  French  newspapers,  bnt  foreign 
ones  are  scarce.  As  a  rale  the  caf^s  are  open  until  1  a.m. , 
even  longer. 

The  best  caftfs  may  with  propriety  be  visited  by  ladieSi  bnt  i 
of  those  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Boulevards  Montmartre  and  des  Ita- 
liens  should  be  avoided,  as  the  society  there  is  far  ftom  select.  — 
Caf£9~Concert8j  see  p.  36. 

When  coffee  is  ordered  at  a  caf^  during  the  forenoon  the  waiter 
brings  a  large  cup  {vne  tcusej  or  nne  grande  tasse^  with  bread,  •/«-lV»  fr«» 
waiter^s  fee  10  c.)-  in  the  aftercoon  the  lame  order  produces  a  email  «iip 
or  glass  (un  inazagran)  of  eafi  noir^  which  costs  80-75  c.  (waiter  10  e.).  The 
waiter,  however,  often  asks  whether  cream  is  wanted  CMtnutetir  premd  dt 
la  crnM''  i).  A  bottle  of  cognac  i»  usually  brought  with  the  coffee  un- 
ordered, and  a  charge  made  according  to  the  quantity  drunk.  At  themon 
fashionable  cafds  a  petit  verre  of  cognac,^  kirsch^  rhum^  curafeio,  or  dimr- 
ireuse  costs  30-40  c,  jine  clunnpague  60-76  c.  —  The  prices  of  the  'conaoiB* 
inations'   arc  generally   marked  on  the  saucers  on  which  they  are  served. 

Tea  is  generally  sold  in  portions  only  (thi  complet)^  costing  l-li/i  fr. 
Dejeuner  may  be  obtained  at  nearly  all  the  oafds  for  2^4  fir.,  and  cold  meat 
for  supper. 

Beer  may  also  be  procured  at  most  of  the  cafis,  *un  hodc*  coatliig 
30-40  c,  *t/n  doubW  or  '«n<  canette'  50-80  c. 

Liqueurs  (40-75c.),  diluted  with  water,  are  largely  consumed  as  *apMtMi' 
or  'appetizers'  before  meals.  Among  these  are  Absinthe,  Vermouth,  sfenthe 
(white  or  green),  Bitters  or  Amers,  Anisette,  and  Quinquina.  —  SHropi  or 
fruit-syrups,  diluted  with  water,  are  to  be  bad  in  vanous  flavoarsi  «.f. 
Sirop  <le  Groseille,  de  Framboise,  de  Grenadine,  Orgeat  (prepared  fiOB 
almonds),  etc.  Sorbet  (water-ice)  and  ices  (half  75c.,  whole  1V4-1*/|  fr.) 
are  also  fre»iuently  ordered. 

We  here  mention  a  very  small  selection  of  the  thousand  cafli 
that  Paris  contains. 

Place  de  la  Madeleine  2,  corner  of  the  Rue  Royale,  CafiJDurandf 
also  a  restaurant,  like  many  others  of  those  mentioned  below. 

Boulevard  des  Capucines.  N.  side:  No.  14,  *Orand  Cafi^  ele- 
gantly fitted  up ;  No.  12,  *Cafi  de  la  Paix.  on  the  groundfloor  of  the 
Grand  Hdtel  (foreign  newspapers);  No.  4,  *Cafi  Amiricain  (flre- 
quented  to  a  very  late  hour).  —  S.  side :  No.  3,  Julien;  No.  1,  Qlackr 
Napolitain,  noted  for  ices. 

Boulevard  des  Italiens.  N.  side  :  No.  16,  Cafi  Biehe,  S.  side: 
Nos.  1  &  3,  CafS  Cardinal. 

Boulevard  Montmartre,  S.  side :  No.  9,  Cafi  dea  VarUUB,  patro- 
nized by  actors  and  Journalists;  No.  5,  de  8ulde*  —  Boulevaid 
Poissonniftre ,  No.  14,  Cafi  du  Pont-de-Fer.  —  Boulevard  Bonne- 
Nouvelle.  N.  side:  No.  30,  *Cafi  de  la  Terraise  (GhauYet),  veil 
supplied  with  newspapers,  recommended  for  dejeuner.  S.  side: 
No.  39,  Dijeuner  de  Richelieu,  noted  for  chocolate  (75  c).  —  Boule- 
rsrd  St  Denis  9,  corner  of  the  Bou\.  de  ^€baa\A^Q\^  Cat^  da  Franei,* 


rnformaUon,  4.  BBASSERIES.*^  21 

Boul.  St  Denis  12,  comer  of  Boul.  de  Strasbourg,  CafS  Francais,  — 
Place  de  la  Btfpubllque :  No.  23,  Grand  Cafi  de  Paris ;  No.  10,  Grand 
Cafi  Amirieain,  —  Bouleyard  du  Temple,  No.  31,  CafS  du  Jardin-' 
Ture  (BonvaletJ. 

In  the  garden  of  the  Palais-Royal  (p.  60;  N.  side) :  Pavilion  de 
la  Botondey  much  frequented  when  the  band  plays.  —  Rue  St.  Ho- 
nor^, opposite  the  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra:  No.  161,  *CafS  de  la  BSgenee^ 
a  famous  rendezvous  of  chess-players  (Scandinavian  newspapers). 

Lbpt  Bank.  CafS  VoUaire,  Place  de  I'Od^on  1.  —  The  numerous 
caf^s  in  the  Boul.  St.  Michel  are  chiefly  frequented  by  students  and 
^^tudiantes^ :  No.  25,  Souffletj  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  des  Ecoles ; 
No.  63,  Taveme  du  Panihionj  a  handsome  establishment  at  the  comer 
of  the  Rue  Soufflot ;  No.  65,  CafS  MahieUf  at  the  opposite  comer. 

Braaseries. 

English,  Bavarian,  Strassburg,  Vienna,  and  other  beer  may  be 
obtained  at  most  of  the  caf^a  (see  above)  and  also  at  the  numerous 
Brasseries  or  Tavtmes,  Some  of  the  brasseries  are  handsomely  fitted 
up  in  the  old  French  or  Flemish  style,  with  stained-glass  windows 
and  quaint  wainscoting  and  furniture.  Those  which  fumish  warm 
meals  are  also  named  among  the  restaurants  (p.  15).  A  small  glass 
of  beer  (un  quart)  costs  30-50  c,  a  large  glass  (un  demi)  50-60  c; 
hrunCf  blonde,  dark  and  light  beer. 

In  or  near  the  Boulbyabds:  BouL  des  Italiens  14,  *Pous8et, 
handsome  establishment  (Munich  beer).  —  Boul.  Montmartre :  No.  18, 
*Ziinfner;  No.  16,  *Ma%arin  (Munich  beer,  foreign  newspapers), 
handsomely  fitted  up;  No.  13,  Ducastamg;  No. 8,  MulUretBlaisot. — 
Avenue  de  I'Op^ra:  No.  26,  *de  VOpSra  (Bavarian  beer),  No.  31,  Uni- 
verseUe  (Munich  beer),  two  handsome  establishments.  —  Boul.  des 
Gapucines  43,  Taveme  Tourtel,  —  Rue  Roy  ale  25,  TavemeBoyale.  — 
Rue  St.  Lazare :  Nos.  115  &  117,  opposite  the  station,  MoUard  (Munich 
beer);  No.  119,  Jacqueminot- Graff,  a  tasteful  establishment  in  the 
Alsatian  style.  —  Rue  du  Faubourg-Montmartre  61  (corner  of  Rue  de 
Ch&teaudun),  Taveme  Montmartre.  —  Rue  Montmartre  149,  Taveme 
du  Coq-d*Or,  another  handsome  establishment. — Boul.  Poissonni^re : 
No.  32,  Taveme  BrSbant;  No.  25,  Brasserie  Gutenberg  (Munich  beer) ; 
No.  13,  Oruber  (Strassburg  beer).  —  Boul.  Bonne-Nouvelle :  No.  31, 
Dueastaing;  No.  35,  MuMer  (Munich  beer  at  these  two).  —  Boul. 
St.  Denia:  No.  15biB,  Taveme  Gruber;  No.  17,  Taveme  du  Negre,  — 
Boul.  de  S^bastopol:  No.  137,  near  the  Boul.  St.  Denis,  Taveme 
Flamande  (Pilsener  beer);  No.  135,  TourrUer  (Bavarian  beer).  — 
BooL  de  Strasbourg  2,  La  Capitale  (Munich  beer).  —  Rue  du  Pont- 
Neuf:  No.  17,  Brasserie  du  Pont-Neuf  (Culmbach  beer);  No.  21, 
Taveme  Henri  Quatre.  —  Rue  St.  Denis  1,  Place  du  Ohatelet^  Grandf. 
Brasserie  Dreher.  —  Boulevard  Beaumaichalg  i,  Qruber  ^««\a.^«».\^\.., 
8«e  p.  18).  —  Bne  de^  Pyramideg  3,  near  t\ift  1\s!i\enft^  ^^x^w^-. 
Brasserie  des  Pyramides  (Munich  beer). 


22  4.  GONFEOTIONEBS.  PnUmimary 

The  Wine  Shops  (Dibits  d€  Vim),  whieh  are  rerj  Bnmeroue,  aie 
frequented  almost  ezelusiyelT  by  the  lower  classes.  The  wine  is  vsiisJlj 
drunk  at  the  counter  Osinc'}.  —  The  latter  remark  applies  to  tbe  Bara, 
somewhat  in  the  English  style.  —  The  AuiomaHc  Bart  at  Boul.  des  Ita* 
li  ns  15  and  Bool.  St.  Denis  may  be  mentioned. 

Oonfeoticners. 

There  aie  two  classes  of  confectioiierB  at  Paris ,  the  FMnUft 
(pastry-cooks)  and  the  ConfUeurs  (sellers  of  sweetmeats;  tee  p. 43). 
The  best  p&tissiers  are :  Jfdim,  Rue  de  la  Bourse  3 ;  Favart,  Boule- 
vard des  Italiens  9 ;  Frascati,  Boul.  Montmartre  21 ;  PdtUserte  du 
Qrand'Httel^  Place  de  rOp^ra;  Chihoutty  Bue  St.  Honoxtf  163, 
Place  du  ThS&tre-Fran^als;  BourhonneuXy  Place  du  Havre  14;  Qagt^ 
Avenue  Victor  Hugo  4,  near  the  Etoile ;  A  la  Dame  Blanthe^  BoiiL 
St.  Germain  196.  The  Boulangerits-Pdtiaieries  are  less  pretending: 
Ladurie,  Rue  Royale  16;  Cateloup^  Avenue  de  I'Optfra  27;  Wanner 
(Viennese),  Rue  de  la  Chaussee-d'Antln  3,  etc. 

Mention  may  also  be  made  of  the  Petitet  PdHsterieiy  or  stalls  for  the 
sale  of  cakes,  buns,  etc. ;  e,  g.  Boulevard  St.  Denis  18,  and  at  the  beginaiBf 
of  the  Rue  de  la  Lune,  Boul.  Bonne-Nouvelle. 

Aftebnoon  Tba  in  the  English  style:  Miaa  Davis ,  Boulevard 
Haussmann  40 ;  Colonibiny  Rue  Cambon  4 ;  NeaVa  Tea  JBooms,  Rne 
de  Rivoli  248;  Kardomah  Tea  Booms,  Rue  de  Rivoli  184;  The  Tea 
Cosy  (Miss  NowersJ,  Rue  St.  Placide  18,  near  the  Bon  Maiclitf  rthe 
only  tea-rooms  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine) ;  Champs-Elya^es  26 ; 
Rue  St.  Honors  248;  Rue  des  Mathurins  40. 

5.  Cabs. 
The  number  of  cabs  in  Paris  (Voitures  de  Plaee  or  de  SemiH; 
Fiacres)  is  about  15,000.  The  most  numerous  are  the  open  eabs 
(voitures  dieouvertes ;  closed  in  winter),  or  victorias,  with  seats  for 
two  (cL  deux  places).  Closed  cabs  (voitures  femUes)^  inclnding  til 
those  with  four  seats  {h  quatre  places;  somewhat  cramped),  osntlly 
ply  near  the  railway  stations.  The  vacant  seat  on  the  box,  and  the 
small  folding  front  seat  (strapontin)  with  which  most  of  the  victorias 
are  furnished,  can  be  ocoupied  only  with  the  consent  of  the  driver 
(which  is  practically  a  matter  of  course).  Only  vehicles  with  four 
inside  seats  are  provided  with  a  railing  on  the  top  for  luggage  (voi- 
tures d,  gaUfie;  comp.  p.  1),  but  the  drivers  of  the  others  never  re- 
fuse to  carry  a  reasonable  amount  of  luggage  on  the  box,  Landanu^ 
which  may  be  opened  at  pleasure,  have  4  seats ;  their  fares  are  higher 
than  that  of  ordinary  cabs.  The  carriage-lamps  are  oolouied  dif- 
ferently according  to  the  D£p6t  to  which  the  cab  belongs,  and,  u 
cabmen  sometimes  raise  objections  when  required  to  drive  to  a  great 
distance  from  their  d^p6t  late  at  night,  it  may  be  convenient  to  note 
the  following  arrangements :  cabs  belonging  to  the  Arc  de  Triomphe 
dtfp6t  have  white  lamps;  Popincourt-Belleville  (N.E.),  blue;  Pols- 
sonnlSre-MontmsatTe  (central),  yellow  •,  Passy-Batignolles  (W.),  red; 
Invalldes-ObseTv&toiie  (S.),  green. 


Informaiion.  6.  GABS.  23 

Uhe  Course  is  a  single  drive;  &  TAMrtf,  by  time,  in  which  case  the  hirer 
shows  his  watch  to  the  driver.  The  hirer  should,  before  starting,  obtain 
the  driver's  number  (votre  mnnirol)^  which  is  a  ticket  containing  the  tariff 
of  fores  and  the  namber,  and  keep  it  in  ease  any  dispute  should  take 
place,  or  any  article  be  left  in  the  cab.  Complaints  may  be  made  to  the 
nearest  policeman,  or  at  one  of  the  offices  which  are  to  be  fonnd  at  every 
cab-stand.  —  Tariff,  see  Appendix,  p.  36.  The  VoUttres  A  Con^teur  (with 
a  dial  inside  showing  time,  distance,  and  fare  of  the  drive),  a  few  of 
which  have  been  tried,  seem  to  have  disappeared.  There  are  also  a  few 
Automobile  Cabe, 

If  a  cab  is  sent  for  and  kept  waiting  more  than  1/4  hr.,  the  driver  is 
entitled  to  charge  by  time;  if  it  is  sent  back  at  once,  half  a  courtey  or  if 
after  V4  hr.,  a  whole  course  must  be  paid  for. 

If  the  cab  be  hired  for  a  course,  the  driver  may  select  his  own  route ; 
if  h  Theure,  he  must  obey  the  directions  of  his  employer.  If  one  of  the 
passengers  alights  before  the  termination  of  the  course,  no  additional  charge 
can  be  made,  unless  luggage  placed  outaide  Uie  vehicle  be  also  removed, 
in  which  case  one  hour  must  be  paid  for. 

If  the  cab  is  engaged  before  12.90  at  night  the  day-charges  only  can 
be  demanded,  if  before  6  (or  7)  a.m.  the  niglU-charges  must  be  paid,  although 
the  drive  be  prolonged  beyond  these  limits. 

If  the  horses  are  used  beyond  the  fortifications  for  2  consecutive  hours, 
the  driver  may  demand  a  rest  of  20  min.  at  the  expense  of  the  hirer.  If 
a  carriage  is  engaged  beyond  the  fortideations  to  return  to  the  town,  the 
town- charges  by  time  can  alone  be  exacted;  in  the  reverse  case,  the  in' 
creased  rate  is  paid  from  the  time  when  the  fortifications  are  passed. 

Cabs  whose  drivers  wear  uMte  hats  are  usually  the  most  comfortable 
and  the  quickest.  India-rubber  tires  are  indicated  by  small  bells  on  the 
horse's  neck. 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  exploring  Paris  expeditiously  and  com- 
fortably are  recommended  to  hire  a  Voiture  de  Grande  Remise  (without  a 
number)  by  the  day  (30  fr.),  or  by  the  week.  Application  should  be  made 
at  the  offices  of  the  Compagnie  Odn^ale  des  Voitures,  Place  dn  Th^&tre 
Fran$ais  1,  Boul.  Montmartre  17,  Boul.  des  Capucines  22,  or  Bue  du 
Havre  9;  or  at  the  office  of  the  Compagnie  Urbaine,  Bue  Taitbout  59. 
Cabs  of  this  description  are  also  to  be  found  on  the  stands  near  the  Cp^ra, 
the  Madeleine,  etc.;  bargaining  necessary  (drive,  about  8  tr.). 

Saddle  Horsea  may  be  hired  of  Duphot,  Bue  de  Duphot  12;  Orouls, 
Bue  d'Enghien  42;  JPelUert  Bue  Chalgrin  8;  Lalanne,  Bue  Troyon  12;  or 
Hensman,  Avenue  Bugeaud  55  (the  last  three  near  the  Bois).  The  charge 
for  a  ride  of  8  hrs.  is  10-20  fr.  —  Horses  and  Carriages  are  sold  at 
Tattersal,  Bue  Beaujon  24. 

6.  Onmibiuef  and  Tramwayg.    Biver  Steamboat!. 

The  Parisian  omnibas,  tramway,  steamboat,  and  railway  seivices 
for  city  and  suburban  communication  are  well  arranged,  and,  if 
properly  used,  enable  the  visitor  to  save  much  time  and  money. 
They  run,  however,  too  seldom  and  hence  are  often  crowded.  The 
plan  of  omnibus-lines  In  the  appendix  to  the  Handbook  will  be 
fonnd  useful,  but  its  perfect  accuracy  cannot  be  guaranteed,  as 
changes  are  constantly  taking  place.  The  traveller  is,  therefore, 
advised  to  purchase  the  latest  Itiniraire  des  Omnibus  et  Tramways 
dans  Paris  (1  fr.)  at  one  of  the  omnibus-offices. 

Omnibniei  and  Tramways.   Omnibuses  &ii^\.ivm^v3%  ^\^^*^  ^"^^ 
dty  in  every  direction  from  7  or  7.30  a.m.  tVW  attet  mXi^xiii^X.  ^  %xA*^ 
mmy  points  a  vehiole  passes  every  ftve  m\iiutft%.    TViwt^  Kt^^%^ 


24  6.  OMNIBUSES  AND  TRAMWAYS.       PrtUmiiimf 

tramway-lines  to  YeiBaillea,  St.  Olond,  and  other  places  in  the 
subnrbB  (see  Plan  in  the  Appendix). 

There  are  about  40  different  lines  of  Omni&tMM,  distin^ished  hf 
the  letters  of  the  alphabet  (see  Appx.}.  With  the  exception  of  afev 
running  in  connection  with  the  railways,  all  the  omnlbaf  es  belong 
to  the  Compagnie  QirUrdU  dts  Omnibus, 

The  TramwayB  are,  with  a  few  exceptions,  divided  at  piecent 
into  the  Tramways  de  la  Compagnie  des  Omnibus^  the  Tramwoffi 
Nordy  now  called  Tramways  de  Paris  et  du  Dipartemeat  de  ia  Sehu^ 
and  the  Tramways  8ud  or  Tramways  de  la  Compagnie  CUnMU 
Pajrisitnne  de  Tramways,  The  lines  are  distinguished  by  letten 
(preceded  by  T),  or  by  the  names  of  their  termini.  The  tramway- 
cars  of  the  Compagnie  des  Omnibus  are  large  and  oumbroiu  Tehlelei, 
with  room  for  about  50  passengers.  Those  on  the  other  llnea  re- 
semble the  cars  of  most  other  towns,  and  most  of  them  aUo  haye  Im- 
p^riales  or  outside  places.  Hitherto  most  of  the  cars  have  been 
drawn  by  horses ,  but  the  use  of  electricity  has  lately  been  much 
extended,  and  many  new  electric  lines  are  in  construction  or  con- 
templation (see  Appendix,  pp.  31,  32). 

The  termini  of  the  lines  are  placarded  on  the  sides  of  both  omni- 
buses and  tramway-cars,  and  another  board  is  hung  behind,  ehowlnf 
the  destination  towards  which  the  vehicle  is  proceeding.  The  prin- 
cipal places  passed  en  route  are  also  indicated,  and  the  letter  of  the 
line  is  marked  on  different  parts  of  the  vehicle.  The  cazrlagea  axe 
also  distinguished  by  their  own  colour  and  that  of  their  lampe.  Oomp. 
the  tables  in  the  Appendix,  pp.  24-32. 

Passengers  may  either  hail  and  stop  the  omnibus  in  the  street 
as  in  England,  or  wait  for  it  at  one  of  the  numerous  omnlbnB-offlces. 
In  the  latter  case,  if  there  are  other  intending  passengers,  it  Is  nenal 
to  ask  for  a  numbered  ticket  {numiro;  no  charge)  for  the  line  re- 
quired. As  soon  as  the  omnibus  appears,  places  are  assigned  to  the 
ticket-holders  in  order,  the  conductor  calling  out  the  numben; 
when  the  omnibus  is  ^eompleV  it  drives  off,  and  the  disappointed 
ticket-holders  have  to  wait  for  the  next.  Tramways  stop  only  at  the 
recognized  stations. 

The  fares  on  all  the  lines  within  Paris  are  the  same,  30c.  Inside 
or  on  the  platform,  and  15  c.  outside  (impSriale),  The  fares  for 
places  beyond  the  fortifications  are  from  10  to  50  c.  higher  (inside ; 
outside  5  to  25  c),  according  to'the  distance.  Some  of  the  spedal 
omnibuses  have  a  prix  unique  of  20-30  c.  for  outside  and  inside. 

One  of  the  most  admirable  features  in  the  arrangements  of  the 
Parisian  omnibus-lines  is  the  system  of  Correspondances^  or  per- 
mission to  change  from  one  line  to  another.  Thus,  if  no  omnibus 
go  in  the  direct  route  to  the  passenger's  destination  from  the  part  of 
Paris  lu  which  he  is,  he  may  demand  from  the  conductor  a  eorre- 
spondanee  foi  the  line  which  will  convey  him  thither.  He  will  then 
receive  a  ticket  (no  ohaige) ,  and  will  be  set  dowiv  «*,lt\ift  ^ovoXi'^iVet^^'k 


InformaUon.        6.  RIVER  STEAMBOATS.  25 

two  lines  cross.  Here  he  proceeds  to  tlie  onmibas-biirean,  receives  a 
number,  which,  without  additional  payment,  entitles  him  to  a  seat 
in  the  first  omnibns  going  in  the  desired  direction,  and  finally  gives 
up  his  ticket  to  the  conductor  of  the  latter  immediately  on  entering. 
Ontside-passengers  are  not  entitled  to  correspondancej  unless  they 
pay  full  fare  (30  c.).  The  tables  and  map  in  the  Appendix  will  show 
what  lines  have  eorrespondanee  with  each  other.  The  *correspon- 
dance'  is  valid  only  where  there  is  a  bureau,  and  the  bureau  de  cor- 
respondance  is  not  invariably  the  same  as  the  office  at  which  the 
passenger  alights,  but  is  sometimes  a  little  way  off. 

Corr€8pondance8  are  also  issued  at  a  small  additional  charge 
for  places  beyond  the  fortifications. 

Mail  Coaches  in  the  English  stvle  plyia  summer  as  follows:  to  Ver- 
tailUi.  *Dail7  Messenger*  coach  at  10  a.m.  from  Bue  St.  Honor^  166  (return 
fare  15  fir.,  box-seat  6  fr,  extra) ;  Cook's  coach  from  Place  de  rOp^ra  1  (same 
time  and  fares);  ^Magnet'  Coach  from  Avenue  de  TOp^ra  49,  daily  at  10.45 
a.m.  (same  fares). 

Woffgonettes  and  Braket  or  Chart-O-bane  ply  through  the  boulevards  and 
other  streets  during  the  days  of  the  races  to  convey  passengers  to  the 
racecourse. 

River  Steamboats.  The  Bateaux  -  Omnibus ,  or  small  screw 
steamers,  which  ply  on  the  Seine  (subject  to  interruption  by  the  state 
of  the  river,  fog,  ice,  etc.),  are  recommended  to  the  notice  of  the 
traveller  in  fine  weather,  as  they  move  quickly  and  afford  a  good 
view  of  the  quays  and  banks  of  the  river;  but  being  small,  they  are 
apt  to  be  crowded. 

There  are  three  different  services,  belonging,  however,  to  the  same 
company  (Bateaux  Parisiena) :  (1)  From  Charenton  to  Auteuil^  by 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  within  Paris ;  (2)  From  the  Pont  d'Auster- 
litz  to  Auteuilf  by  the  right  bank;  (3)  From  the  Pont-Royal  to 
SureaneSf  also  by  the  right  bank.    Gomp.  the  Appendix,  p.  35. 

The  Oharenton  steamboats  may  be  recognized  by  the  benches 
placed  across  the  deck ;  those  for  Suresnes  by  their  larger  size.  In 
'  the  latter  boats  the  fares  for  the  whole  or  any  part  of  the  distance  are 
the  same.  Metal  tickets  (jetons)  are  taken  on  board  and  given  up 
on  disembarking.  Fares  (which  are  liable  to  vary) :  From  Charen- 
ton to  Pont  d'Austerlitz  10  c,  on  Sun.  and  holidays  15  c. ;  from 
Charenton  to  Auteuil  20  and  25  c. ;  Pont  d'Austerlitz  to  Auteuil 
10  and  20  c. ;  Pont  Royal  to  Suresnes  20  and  40  c. 

A  half-hourly  service  (from  7  a.m.  to  6  p.m.)  plies  on  Thurs.,  Sun., 
and  holidays  from  the  Qveri  du  Louvre  to  Ablon  via  Choisy-le-Roi ;  see  p.  857. 

7.  Bailway  Stations.  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceintore.  Railway  Offices 
and  Agents. 

The  seven  railways  radiating  from  Paris  start  from  ten  different 
stations.    For  remarks  on  the  French  railway  system,  see  ^."s\Vx. 

The  *Indicateur  des  Chemins  de  Fer\  the  IndicalcuT  Paul  Ihif^cNvY., 
and  the  JUvrets  Chaix(j^.  xiy)  give  complete  iTitoTmta\oiiT€i%«:t^A^%^ 
1af*im.  —  JSToUls  and  Be$taurant9  neai  t\ie  texmrnV,  i^^^*  ^^.^  A^- 


26  7.   RAILWAY  STATIONS.  PrMnhmy 

I.  Chemint  do  Fer  da  Vord.  Oabb  du  Nobd,  Place  Roabalz  18 
(PI.  B,  24;  oomp.  p.  200),  for  the  Lignea  de  BatiUeue  to  8t.  Demi$, 
Enghien,  etc. ;  and  fox  the  Lignea  du  Nord  to  England  vid  CcMi 
or  Boulogne,  Belgium,  Oermany  vid  Lilgt^  etc.  The  bookingH>fAeei 
for  the  trains  of  the  Banlieue,  except  for  the  stationB  beyond  Bt 
Denis  on  the  Ghantilly  line,  are  In  front;  for  the  other  tnins,  in  the 
arcade  to  the  left.  —  Buffet  to  the  right  in  the  first  arcade.  ^-  Qan 
de  la  Ceinture  et  des  Travns-  Tramways,  to  the  right  of  the  main  station. 

n.  Cheming  de  Fer  de  I'Est.    Two  Statioru. 

(1).  Gabs  db  l'Est,  or  de  Stkasboubg,  Place  de  Strashonrg  (Pl.B, 
24 ;  p.  200),  for  the  lines  to  Nancy,  etc.,  to  Oermany  vid  Afete,  to 
Switzerland  vid  Belfort,  and  to  Italy  vid  the  8t,  Ootthard  Tunnel, 
etc.  The  booking-office  for  the  trains  of  the  Banlieue  is  in  ftont,  for 
the  other  trains  to  the  left. 

(2).  Gabb  db  Vincbnnbs,  Place  d,e  la  Bastille  (PI.  B,  25;  F), 
for  the  line  to  Vineennes, 

m.   Cheming  de  Fer  de  roneit.    Three  Statioru, 

(1).  Gabb  St.  Laza&b  (buffet;  comp.  p.  196),  between  the 
Rue  St.  Lazare,  the  Rue  d^ Amsterdam,  and  the  Rue  de  Rome  (PI.  B, 
18),  for  the  Ligru  de  Petite  Ceinture  (see  below);  the  Ligne  du 
Champ'de-Mars f  the  Lignea  de  Banlieue,  serving  iflft.  Clotid,  Fer- 
saillea  (right  bank),  8t.  Oermain,  ArgenteuU,  and  Ermont;  and  the 
Lignea  de  Normandie  (England  vid  Dieppe  or  Le  Havre),  —  The 
railway-omnibuses  (for  railway-passengers  only)  start  firom  the  Flaoe 
de  la  R^publique,  the  Pointe  St.  Eustache,  the  Bourse  de  Ck>m- 
merce  (Halles),  the  Hdtel  de  Yille,  and  the  Square  du  Bon-Maiehtf 
(fares  20,  26  c). 

(2).  Gabb  Montfabnassb,  Boulevard  Montparnasse  44  (Fl.  G,  16 ; 
p.  288j,  for  the  Ligne  de  Banlieue  to  S^vrea  and  VeraaiUea  (left  bank), 
the  Lignea  de  Bretagne,  and  the  Chemina  de  Fer  de  VEtat.  The  book- 
ing-offices for  the  line  to  Versailles  and  for  the  suburban  stationa  are 
situated  downstairs,  to  the  left ;  those  for  the  main  lines  are  abote, 
reached  by  a  staircase  and  by  an  outside  inclined  plane.  BnfESet  on 
the  groundfloor.  Omnibus  between  this  station  and  the  Bourse,  80  e. 

(3).  Gabb  des  Inyalidbs  (PI.  R,  14;  ii),  a  new  station  in  the 
Esplanade  des  Invalides ,  at  present  used  only  for  the  Ligne  dea 
Moulineaux  and  St.  Cloud  (see  p.  291),  but  intended  ultimately,  after 
the  completion  of  the  section  from  Paris  vi^  the  Bois  de  Mendon 
and  Chaville  to  Versailles  (p.  291),  to  serve  as  the  starting-point 
of  the  Lignea  de  Bretagne, 

TV.  Cheming  de  Fer  d'Orliani.    Three  Stationa. 

fl).  NouvBLLB  Gabb  d'Obl^ans,  Quai  d'Orsay  (PI.  R,  17,  //; 
p.  271) ;  for  the  lines  to  OrUana,  Toura,  Bordeaux,  the  Pjfrmua^ 
Spain,  etc. 

(2).  (7A£Ji>'AusTBBLiTzorAncienneQaTed'OTUan«(Pl.G,36;V), 
counected  with  the  preceding  by  a  \oo^-\Vn«  ^  %.Ti^  %X^  ^<^1^«^ 


informatkm.         7.  RAILWAY  OFFICES.  27 

terminus  for  certain  trains.  A  railwty-omniT>as  plies  between  this 
station  and  the  office  of  the  railway,  Rne  de  Londres  (Trinity ;  fare 
30  c,  without  luggage. 

(3).  Gabb  du  LxTZBMBounG,  at  the  corner  of  the  BouloTard  St. 
Michel  and  the  Bue  Gay-Lussac  (PI.  B.  19 ;  V)j  near  the  Jardin  du 
Luxembourg  (p.  262),  for  the  lines  to  Sceaux  and  Limows,  Luggage 
cannot  be  registered  at  this  station  but  must  be  taken  to  the  old 
Oare  de  Seeaux  (PL  G,  20).  The  line  is  to  be  prolonged  to  unite  at 
the  Place  St.  Michel  with  that  from  the  new  Gare  d'OrMans. 

V.  Chemins  de  Fer  de  Paris  k  Lyon  et  it  la  Miditerranie. 
Gabb  db  Lyon  (buffet),  Boulevard  Diderot  20  (PI.  G,  25,  28). 

Trains  to  FontainebUau,  Dijon,  ChdUm-sur'Sadney  MScon,  Lyons, 
Maf$eiUe8j  Switzerland  vid  PontofUeff  MCteon,  and  Lyone,  Italy  vid 
the  Mont  Cenia  Tunnel  or  vid  iVtcc,  the  Mediterranean,  etc. 

VI.  COiemin  do  For  do  Potito  Gointoro.  —  The  ^Chemin  de  Fer 
de  Petite  Oeinture'  forms  a  complete  circle  round  Paris  (with  a 
branch  to  the  Champ-de^Mars),  within  the  line  of  the  fortifications, 
and  connects  with  the  different  railways  in  the  suburbs. 

The  length  of  the  line  is  28  M.,  bat  owing  to  the  frequency  of  the 
stoppages  the  eircuit  is  not  performed  in  less  than  li/s  hr.  For  details, 
see  the  table  in  the  Appendix,  p.  84.  Trains  run  in  both  directions  every 
10  minutes.  The  chief  station  of  arrival  and  departnre  is  the  Gare  St.  La- 
sare  (p.  28),  bnt  trains  also  ran  from  the  Gare  da  Nord  (p.  26).  There  is 
no  third  class.  The  fares  are  40  or  30  e.  to  the  first  or  second  station 
from  the  point  of  departure  (return  60  or  80  c),  and  66  or  80  c.  beyond 
that  distance  (return  90  or  60  c). 

Trarellers  may  avail  themselves  of  this  railway  to  visit  points  of 
interest  in  the  suburbs,  sueh  as  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  P^re  Lachaise, 
and  the  Buttes-Chaumont,  or  to  make  the  complete  circuit  of  the  city. 
On  every  side  of  the  town,  however,  except  the  S.W.,  the  line  rans  be- 
tween walls  or  through  deep  cuttings  and  tunnels.  The  seats  on  the  out- 
side (4mp€riale^)  are  not  to  be  recommended^  they  are  very  dranghty, 
and  exposed  to  dust  and  smoke. 

Vn.  Mitropolitain.  This  is  a  new  electric  railway  begun  in 
1898,  which  runs  mostly  underground  and  is  to  comprise  a  circular 
line  along  the  Outer  Boulevards  (p.  73)  and  three  transverse  lines, 
with  an  aggregate  length  of  about  40  M.  Over  the  section  open  for 
traffic  in  1900,  extending  from  the  Cours  de  Vincennes  (PI.  R,  34) 
to  the  Porte  MaiUot  (PI.  B,  9;  about  68/4  M.),  with  branches  to  the 
Troeadiro  (PI.  R,  8;  J)  and  the  Porte  Dauphine  (PI.  R,  6),  trains 
ran  every  4-6  minutes  (uniform  fares  Q5  c,  15  c).  The  stations 
are  below  the  level  of  the  streets,  like  those  of  the  Metropolitan  and 
District  Railways  in  London.  —  Routes  and  list  of  stations,  see 
Appendix,  p.  33. 

The  Ohemin  de  Fer  de  Grande  Oeinture,  which  forms  a  wide  circle 
round  Paris,  connecting  the  Ghemins  de  Fer  de  TEst,  de  Yincennes,  de 
Lyon,  and  d^OrHans,  is  of  little  interest  for  the  tourist  except  for  the  trip 
from  Versailles  to  St.  Germain  (p.  326)  and  for  the  excursion.  tA  ^&i&  ^i^- 
ley  of  the  Biivre  (p.  362). 

Xailway  Offtoes.  All  the  lines  have  sub-oi&coB  (Bureaux  auccuvwUa^ 
iarmriousvartaofthe  city,  from  which  railway  omuVbxiBfta  me."^\i^  ot^«.w 
(eomps  p.  1).    Pasaengen  may  book  their  luggage,  asx^i  Vu  a^m.^  ^*»^*  ^'^^ 


28  8.  POST  OFFICE.  PteUminary 

take  their  tickets,  at  these  sub-offices,  which,  however,  they  most  gmarmll7 
reach  1  hr.  before  the  departure  of  the  train.  Porceb,  see  p.  29.  The 
offices  are  open  from  7  a.ni.  to  8  p.m.  on  week-days,  from  7  a.m.  to  noon  on 
Sun.  and  holidays. 

Chemin  de  Fer  du  Nord:  Rue  du  Bouloi  21;  Bue  Paul-Lelong  7t  Bue 
Gaillon  5;  Place  de  la  Madeleine  7:  Boul.  de  Sebastopol  84 ;  Bue  St.  llartiB 
326;  Bue  des  Archives  63-,  Qual  de  Valmy  33;  Bue  du  Faubourg-St-An- 
toine  21;  Place  St.  Sulpice  6.  —  Bit:  Bue  Notre-Dame-des-Vietoires  28; 
Bue  du  Bouloi  9;  Boul.  de  Sebastopol  34;  Place  de  la  Bastille,  at  the  Gaxe 
de  Vincennes;  Place  St.  Sulpice  6;  Bue  de  la  Chauss^e-d'Antin  7;  Bue 
Ste.  Anne  6;  Bue  de  Tarbi$;o  55.  —  Ouitt  Ka6.  Etat:  Bue  de  TEchiquier  27; 
Boul.  and  Impasse  Bonne-Nouvelle :  Bue  du  Perche  9;  Bue  du  Bouloi  17; 
Bue  du  Quatre-Septembre  10 ;  Bue  ae  Palestro  7;  Bue  St.  Andr^-des-Arts  9; 
Place  de  la  Ba<:tille,  at  the  Gare  de  Vincennes ;  Bue  Ste.  Anne  6.  —  OrUmu 
and  Etat:  Bae  de  Londres  8;  Bue  Paul-Lelong  7;  Bue  Gaillon  5;  Bue  St. 
Martin  326;  Place  St.  Sulpice  6;  Place  de  la  Madeleine  7;  Bue  du  Bouloi  Hit 
Bue  de  Paradis  21bis;  Boul.  de  Sebastopol  34;  Bue  des' Archives  63;  Qual 
de  Valmy  33;  Bue  du  Faubourg- St- Antoine  21.  —  Li/on:  Bue  St.  Lasare88; 
Rue  des  Petites-Ecuries  11;  Bue  St.  Martin  252;  Bue  de  Bambuteau  6;  Bue 
de  Rennes  45;  Place  de  la  Bepubliqne  16;  Bue  Ste.  Anne  6;  Bue  Tlque- 
tonne  64. 

The  office  of  the  Compagnie  Internationale  det  Wagont-JAU  (sleeping 
carriages)  is  Ifo.  3,  Place  de  TOp^ra.  The  Bovth  Eiutem  RcMuay  and  the 
London^  Chatham^  and  Dover  Railway  have  also  offices  in  Paris  (Boulevard 
des  Italiens  30). 

Steamboat  Offices.  The  Paris  offices  of  some  of  the  principal  iteamahip 
companies  are  as  follows :  AUan  Line,  Bue  Scribe  7.  —  Amerieon,  Bue  Seribe 
5.  —  Anchor,  Bue  duHelder  4.  —  Chargeurs  Riunie,  Boul.  des  Italiene  11; 
Compagnie  04nirale  Tramatlantique ,  Bue  Auber  6  and  Boul.  des  Gapucdnes 
12.  —  Cunard,  Avenue  de  TOpdra  38.  —  Dominion,  Bue  des  Marals  86.  — 
Fraiisinet,  Rue  de  Bougemont  9.  —  Hamburg-Amuriean  Linie,  Bue  Scribe  8. 
—  MeMogeries  Maritimes,  Rue  Vignon  1.  —  Peninsutixr  A  OrienUd  Co,,  BouL 
des  Italiens  30.  —  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.,  Avenue  de  TOp^a  88.  — 
North- German  Lloyd,  Bue  Scribe  2bis.  —  White  Star,  Bue  Scribe  1. 

Bailway  Agents.  Cook,  Place  de  rOp^ra  1 ;  Oate,  Bue  Scribe  2;  Vopaffm 
Economiquea,  Bue  du  Faubourg-Montmartre  17  and  Bue  Auber  1();  L^Mm, 
Boulevard  Haussmann  36;  Clark,  Bue  Auber  1;  Duclumin,  Bue  de  Gram- 
mont  20;  Voungea  Pratiques^  Bue  de  Bonie  9;  Desrochee,  Montmartre  21. 

Goods  Agents.  WheaUey  de  Co.,  Rue  Auber  12 ;  Pitt  A  Seotl,  Bue  Scribe  7 
and  Rue  Clement  Marot  12  (also  storage  of  luggage,  etc.);  American  Es* 
2)j'e8s  Co.  (for  America),  Rue  Jlal^vy  6  and  Rue  des  Petites-Eeuries  47; 
Thoe.  Meadows  A  Co.,  Bue  Scribe  4. 

8.    Post  and  Telegraph  OffLoes. 

Post  Offtoe.  The  Poste  Centrale,  or  General  Po8t  Offlee,  it  in 
the  Rue  du  Louvre  (PI.  R,  21 ;  III)  ;  comp.  p.  173.  There  ue  also 
in  the  different  quarters  of  the  town  about  a  hundred  hranch-offloes, 
distinguished  at  night  by  blue  lamps,  besides  auxiliary  offleea  in 
shops,  with  blue  placards. 

The  following  are  the  Bubbaux  d^Abbondissbhbnt,  or  District  Of- 
fices.    (Meaning  of  the  asterisks,  see  below.) 

1.  Arrond.  (Louvre) :  **Hdtel  des  Postes  (p.  173) ;  ** Avenue  de  TOp^ra 
2;  *Bue  des  Capucines  13;  *B.  Gambon  9;  *B.  St.  Denis  90;  *B.  des  Halles 
9.  —  2.  Arrond.  (Bourse) :  **Place  de  la  Bourse  4  and  B.  Feydeau  Bi^*B. 
de  Gl^ry  25:  **B.  MarsoUier  2;  *B.  de  Grammont  16.  —  S.  Arrond,  (Tem- 
ple) :  *B.  B^aumur  47;  *Boul.  St.  Martin  41 ;  *B.  des  Haudriettes  4;  ete.  — 
^.  At'fond.  (Hdtel  de  Yille):  *Hdtel  de  Ville;  'Tribunal  de  Commerea; 
*£ue  de  la  Bastille  2;  etc.  —  6.  Ai*r<md.  (Paul'h4ou^*.  *''&.  ^CkToUtyJ^  eto. 
—  ^.  Arrond.  CLaxembourg)  :  *R.  des  Salnla-P^Tea  *Ja,  wv^  ^.  ^^  Y\iuVi«- 


Information,  8.    POST  OFFICE.  29 

sit^  1;  B.  dB  Bennes  53;  R.  de  Vaugirard  86  (Luxembourg)^  etc.  — 
7.  Arrond,  (Palaifl  Bourbon) :  *Boul.  St.  Germain  195:  *B.  de  Bourgogne  2 
(Chambre);  *B.  de  Grenelle  108;  «te.  —  8.  Arrond.  (BljBie):  *B.  d'Amater- 
dam  19 ;  *Bonl.  Maleaherbes  6;  B.  Boissy  d'Anglas  8  (Place  de  la  Concorde) ; 
Avenue  dea  ChampB^Elys^ee  S3;  etc.  —  9.  Arrond.  (Op^ra):  *Boul.  des  Gapu- 
cinea  (Grand-Hdtel);  *B.  de  Prorence  54;  *B.  Milton  1;  *B.  Lafayette  96; 
*B.  Bleue  14;  etc.  ~  20.  Arrond.  (St.  Laurent):  *B.  d'Bnghien  21;  B.  de 
StraabourgS  (Gare  deTEat):  *Gare  du  Nord;  ete.  -^  2L.  Arrond.  (Popin- 
oourt):  Place  de  la  B^publique  10:  *Boul.  Beaumarchaia.68;  etc.  •—  16. 
Arrond.  (Paaay):  Arenue  Marceau  29;  Place  Victor  Hugo  8;  Bue  de  la 
PompeiS;  etc.  —  17.  .irrond.  (Batignollea-Monceau):  Boul.  de  Courcellea  78; 
Avenue  de  la  Grande -Armde  dObia;  Avenue  de  Wagram  165;  Bue  dea 
Batignollea  42;  etc. 

The  oidinaiy  offices  are  open  daily  from  7  a.m.  (8  a.m.  in 
winter)  till  9  p.m.  (4  p.m.  on  Snn.  and  holidayB).  Letters  for  the 
eTening- trains  starting  before  8.10  p.m.  must  be  posted  at  the 
ordinary  offices  before  6.16  or  6.30  p.m. ;  at  the  offices  marked  with 
one  asterisk  before  6.46  p.m.;  at  the  general  post-office  and  the 
offices  marked  with  two  asterisks  before  6.30  p.m.;  at  the  railway 
stations  they  may  be  posted  till  within  6-10  minntes  of  the  starting 
of  the  trains.  Letters  to  be  registered  must  be  handed  in  1-2  hrs. 
earlier.  Late  letters  are  received  at  the  offices  marked  with  one  or 
two  asterisks. 

The  Poste  Restante  Office  is  in  the  General  Post  Office  and  is 
open  daily  till  9  p.m.  Travellers  may  also  direct  poste  restante 
letters  to  be  addressed  to  any  of  the  district-offices.  In  applying  for 
letters,  the  written  or  printed  name,  and  in  the  case  of  registered 
letters,  the  passport  of  the  addressee  shonld  always  be  presented.  It 
is,  however,  preferable  to  desire  letters  to  be  addressed  to  the  hotel 
or  boarding-house  where  the  visitor  intends  residing. 

Letter-boxes  (BoiUs  aux  Lettres)  are  also  to  be  found  at  most 
public  buildings,  at  the  railway-stations,  in  the  tramway-cars  serv- 
ing the  suburbs,  and  in  most  tobacconists*  shops,  where  stamps  (tim- 
brea-poate)  may  also  be  purchased. 

Postage  of  Letters,  etc  Ordinary  Letters  within  France,  including 
Corsica,  Algeria,  and  Tun's,  16c.  per  15  grammes  prepaid;  for  countries 
of  tbe  Pustal  Union  25  c.  (The  silver  franc  and  the  bronze  sou  each  weigh 
5  grammes.)  —  Registered  Letters  (lettres  recommandies)  25  c.  extra.  —  Post 
Cards  10  c.  each,  with  card  for  reply  attached,  20  c.  —  Letter-Cards^  15  c. ; 
for  abroad  25  c. 

Post  Office  Orders  (mandats  de  poste)  are  issued  for  most  countries  in 
the  Postal  Union  at  a  charge  of  26  c.  for  every  25  fr.  or  fraction  of  15  fr., 
the  maximum]  being  600  or  1000  fr. ;  for  Great  Britain,  20c.  per  10  fr., 
maximum  352  fr. 

Printed  Papers  (imprimis  sons  bande):  Ic.  per  5  grammes  up  to  the 
weight  of  20  gr. ;  5  c.  between  20  and  50  gr. ;  above  50  gr.  5  c.  for  each 
50  gr.  or  fraction  of  50  gr. ;  to  foreign  countries  5  c.  per  60  gr. 

Parcels  9  though  known  as  ^Colis  Postaux!',  are  not  transmitted 
by  the  French  post-office,  but  by  the  railway  and  steamship  com- 
panies, which  are  subsidized  for  the  purpose,  or  (in  Paris)  by  a  pri- 
vate firm.  These  parcels  must  not  contain  gold,  8iWet.j^«^^T5  .^^t.^^- 
slves  or  dangerous  substances,  or  anything  m  t\vft  tui-Var^  ol  ^X^'ti^^^* 

WUMn  PaHi  (three  deliveries  daily,  two  on  Sun.  a.nWioW^^.'^^^.    ^^^^^ 
must  not  exceed  iO  kilogrammea  (22  lbs.)  in  weigVit.    T^fc  Oo^t'i.^a,  wt^  »  ^' 


30  8.  TELEGRAPH.  PreUminary 

per  parcel  up  to  6  kil.,  10c.  above  that  weight,  or  65  and  70 e.  *eoaln 
remboursement".  Parcels  should  be  handed  in  at  one  of  the  ntunerovi 
dep6t8  (tobacconists'  shops  and  branch  post-offlces)  a  list  of  which  maybe 
obtained  in  the  post  ofUces.    The  central  depdt  is  at  Bue  da  Lovrre  28^ 

Provineial  and  Colonial  Parcel*.  Small  parcels  not  exceeding  10  kH. 
(22  lbs.)  in  weight  may  be  forwarded  within  France  and  to  the  Fk«D^ 
colonies  at  a  charge  of  60  c.  for  parcels  up  to  3  kil.  (6</6  lbs.)i  80e.  vp  to 
6  kil.,  and  1^4  fr.  for  heavier  parcels,  delivered  at  a  railway-station  or 
post-offlce;  26  c.  extra  delivered  at  a  private  address.  Parcels  may  be  sent 
^contre  remboarsement"  up  to  6(X)  fr.  for  an  extra  fee  of  60  or  8fi  c.  They 
may  be  insured  for  600  fr.  on  payment  of  10  e.  —  Parcels  are  not  receired 
at  the  post-offices,  but  should  be  handed  in  at  a  railway*station  or  at  a 
railway- office  (see  p.  27). 

Foreign  Parcel*.  There  is  also  a  parcel-post  between  France  and  tome 
of  the  other  countries  of  the  Pustal  Union,  parcels  up  to  11  lbs.  being  con- 
veycd  at  a  uniform  rate :  viz.  to  Germany,  JSelgium,  Switserland,  1  fr.  10  c  ; 
Spain  ,  Italy ,  1  fr.  35  c. ;  Great  Britain,  Austria,  Netherlands,  1  ft.  00  c 
These  parcels  must  be  sealed. 

Telegraph.  The  telegraph-offloes  at  the  distilot  post-offloea  are 
open  to  9  p.m.  The  following  amongst  others  are  open  till  11  p.m. : 
Avenue  des  Champs-Elystfes  33 ;  at  the  Grand  H6tel ;  Oare  da  Noid; 
the  Luxembourg;  Place  de  la  Btfpublique  10;  Bne  des  Halles  9. 
The  offices  at  Avenue  de  TOptfra  2,  Rue  Boissy  d'Anglas  3,  and  the 
Place  du  Havre  are  open  till  midnight.  Telegrams  may  be  s^nt  at 
any  hour  of  the  day  or  night  from  the  offices  at  the  Bonne  (night 
entrance  on  the  left}  and  Bue  de  Grenelle  103. 

Telegrams  within  France  and  to  Monaco,  Algeria,  and  Tunis  ate 
charged  at  the  rate  of  5  c.  per  word  (minimum  charge  60  c.)  t  to  Great 
Britain,  20  c.  per  word  (minimum  6  words) ;  to  New  York,  1  fr.  25,  Ohleago 
1  fr.  65  c.  per  word.  —  Wettem  Union  Telegraph  Co.,  Bue  Scribe  o. 

The  rates  per  word  for  other  countries  are  as  follows:  for  Luxea- 
buurg,  Switzerland,  and  Belgium  12 Vs  c. ;  Germany  15  c. :  Ketherlaadi  16  ct 
Austria-Hungary,  Fortugal,  Italy,  and  Spain  20  c;  Denmark ,34i/s e. | 
Sweden,  28  c. :  Boumania ,  Servia,  etc.,  2»i/sc.;  Norway  96  c;  Kussia  ia 
Europe  40  c.|  Turkey  53  c;  Greece  537t-57  c. 

Telegrams  marked  urgent,  taking  precedence  of  ordinary  telegraniSi 
arc  charged  thrice  the  ordinary  rates. 

Telegraphic  Orders  (mandats  tiUgraphiques)  for  not  more  than 
5000  fr.  are  issued  between  French  offices,  and  for  not  more  than 
500  fr.  between  France  and  a  few  foreign  countries  (e.g,  Germany, 
Austria,  Belgium,  Netherlands,  Italy,  Switzerland). 

There  is  also  a  system  of  Pnbumatio  Tubes  (TiUgrapkU  pn/em^ 
matique)  for  the  transmission  of  messages  within  Paris,  at  the  late 
of  20  c.  for  open  cards  (eartet  tiligrammes  ouvertet) ,  30  c.  for 
closed  cards  (cartes  tiUgrammes  fermSesJj  and  50  o.  for  letters  not 
weighing  more  than  7  grammes.  The  cards  may  be  obtained  at  the 
telegraph-offices,  to  which  special  letter-boxes  for  the  pneomatio 
post  are  also  attached. 

Telephone.    Most  of  the  post  and  telegraph  offices  have  tele* 

phonic  communication  with  all  parts  of  Paris  and  district  (fee  26  t, 

per  6  min.)  and  with  the  provinces  (fee  25  o.  per  3  min.  np  to  25 

MlometreB;  beyond  that  distance,  50  c.  per  100  kilomdtresl.   Pads 

also  commnnicateB  with  Brussels  (^  ti.^  aiv^  Ij^w^wa.  ^^  ti*  i^er 

5  min,)  from  central  offices,  of  w"hici\it\ift  cVAal  w^  KX.'ft.xi^k  QcijJuwk- 


InformaUon.  9.  THEATBES.  31 

berg,  near  the  Oentral  Post  Office,  and  BouL  St.  Geimain  183. 
Plans  of  the  telephonic  system  are  hung  np  in  the  offices. 

The  telephone  may  also  be  used  for  the  transmission  of  Messages 
tSUphonSs  (50  c.  per  3  min.),  which  the  receiving  office  delivers  to 
the  addressee  by  messenger. 

9.    Theatres.  Cirenies.  Muiie  Halls/  Balls. 

Paris  now  possesses  about  20  large  theatres,  in  the  proper 
sense  of  the  word,  and  the  traveller  doing  the  'sights*  of  Paris 
should  not  omit  to  visit  some  at  least  of  the  principal  houses.  Per- 
formances generally  begin  between  8  and  8.30  p.m.,  and  last  till 
nearly  midnight;  details  are  given  in  the  newspapers  and  the  wall 
posters.  MatinSes  are  frequently  given  in  winter  on^Sundays  and 
holidays,  and  generally  on  Thursdays  also.  Many  of  the  principal 
theatres  are  closed  in  summer. 

An  intimate  acquaintance  with  colloquial  French,  such  asj^can^be  ac- 

?[uired  only  by  prolonged  residence  in  the  country,  is  absolutely  necessary 
or  tiie  thorough  appreciation  of  the  acting ;  visitors  are  therefore  strongly 
recommended  to  purchase  the  play  (la  piice;  1-2  fr.)  to  be  performed,  and 
peruse  it  beforehand.  Dramatic  compositions  of  every  kind  are  sold  at 
the  IdbraMe  Treue  A  Stock,  Thd&tre  Frangais  8-11,  by  Ollendorff^  Bue  de  la 
Ghauss^e-dAntin  50,  at  the  Magatin  TMdtraly  Boulevard  St.  Martin  12,  etc. 
The  plays  may  also  be  procured  in  most  instances  at  the  theatres  themselves. 
Play-bills  (U  progrcmme^  le  programme  ditailli)^  or  tbeatrical  newspapers 
with  the  programme  of  the  evening  iPEtUrt-AcU^  POrchutre^  and  others), 
are  sold  in  thd  theatres. 

The  best  seats  are  the  fauteuils  d^orehestrej  or  seats  next  to  the 
orchestra,  behind  which  are  the  stalles  d'orehestre.  The  fauteuils 
d'amphUhSdtre  in  the  Opera  House  may  also  be  recommended,  but  in 
most  other  theatres  the  amphitheatre  is  indifferent  both  for  seeing 
and  hearing.  The  fauteuils  de  balcon,  or  de  la  premihre  galerte, 
corresponding  to  the  English  dress-circle,  are  good  seats,  especially 
for  la<Ues.  The  centre  seats  in  the  two  following  galleries  (loges  des 
premieres,  des  seeondes  de  face)  come  next  in  point  of  comfort.  The 
avant-seknes  or  loges  d^avant-sc^nes  are  the  stage-boxes,  which  may 
be  du  reab-de-ehcaassie  (on  a  level  with  the  stage),  de  halcon^  etc. 
Baignoires,  or  loges  du  rez-de-ehaussSe,  are  the  other  boxes  on  the 
groundfloor  of  the  theatre.  At  many  of  the  theatres  ladies  are 
not  admitted  to  the  orchestra  stalls ,  the  space  between  each  row 
of  seats  being  so  narrow,  that  even  gentlemen  have  some  difficulty 
in  passing  in  and  out.  When  ladies  are  admitted  to  the  orchestra 
stalls,  they  are  usually  expected  to  remove  their  hats.  The  parterre 
or  pit  is  always  crowded,  and  the  places  are  not  numbered,  except 
at  the  Opera.  Those  who  wish  to  secure  a  tolerable  seat  in  this  part 
of  the  theatre  should  be  at  the  door  at  least  an  hour  before  the 
beginning  of  the  performance ,  and  fall  into  the  rank  (faixt  ^u«\s.t.^ 
of  other  expectants.  The  doors  are  opened  \i&\l-^Ti-V<()\a\^^l^^^^^c^'^ 
curtain  rises.  Women  are  seldom  seen  in  thepBxtertft,  es.^c^^Va^^^ 
snuUIer  theMtres.   The  arrangement  and  naming  ol  ^'^'^  ^^^^^  eiaS^^ 


32  9.  TnfiATR£S.  PteUnUnofy 

in  the  different  theatres,  but  in  all  of  them  the  side-seats  and  the 
two  upper  galleries  should  be  avoided,  espeoially  at  the  Opera.  Ai 
a  rule  the  price  of  a  seat  is  the  best  criterion  of  its  desirability. 

It  is  a  wise  precaution,  especially  in  the  case  of  very  popular 
performances  and  when  ladies  are  of  the  party,  to  secure  a  good 
seat  by  purchasing  a  ticket  beforehand  (billet  en  location)  at  the 
office  of  the  theatre  (bureau  de  location,  generally  open  from  10  or  11 
to  6),  where  a  plan  of  the  interior  is  shown.  Seats  booked  in  this 
manner  often  cost  ^2'^  ^^'  ^oie  than  au  bureau,  i,e.  at  the  door, 
but  the  purchaser  has  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  his  seat  is 
numbered  and  reserved.  Box-places,  however,  cannot  thus  be  ob- 
tained in  advance  except  by  taking  a  whole  box  (4-6  seats).  Places 
may  also  be  secured  beforehand  at  one  of  the  theatrical  offices  in  the 
Boulevards ,  but  the  booking-fee  demanded  there  is  often  5  fr.  and 
upwards.  Visitors  are  cautioned  against  purchasing  their  tickets 
from  vendors  in  the  street. 

The  different  charges  for  admission  given  below  vary  aeoQrdlng 
to  the  season  and  the  popularity  of  the  piece  and  of  the  aotors.  At 
the  so-called  premieres  (soil,  reprisentationi),  or  first  performances 
of  pieces  by  favourite  authors ,  the  charges  for  boxes  are  oftea 
extravagantly  high. 

Tickets  taken  at  the  door  are  not  numbered,  and  do  not  give  the 
purchaser  a  right  to  any  particular  seat  in  the  part  of  the  house  io  whieh 
they  apply.  The  door-keeper  will  direct  the  visitor  to  one  of  the  nsr 
engaged  places  \  but  if  any  unfair  play  be  suspected,  visitors  may  demand 
la  feuilU  de  location^  or  list  of  seats  booked  for  the  night ,  and  ehoofc 
any  seats  which  do  not  appear  on  this  list. 

The  Claque  CChevaliert  du  Lustre*),  or  paid  applauders,  form,  aa  an- 
noying, although  characteristic  feature  in  most  of  the  theatres.  They 
generally  occupy  the  centre  seats  in  the  pit,  under  the  ehaadelier  i>r 
'lustre^  and  are  easily  recognised  by  the  obtrusive  and  simnltaaeoni 
vigour  of  their  exertions.  There  are  even  ^entrepreneurs  de  »ueci$  dreh 
matique8\  a  class  of  mercantile  adventurers  who  furnish  tiieatres  with 
claques  at  stated  terms.  Strange  as  it  may  seem  to  the  visitor,  aU  attempts 
to  abolish  this  nuisance  have  hitherto  failed. 

Overcoats,  cloaks,  shawls,  etc.,  may  be  left  at  the  ^Vestlaire^  or^loak 
room  (fee  25-50  c.  each  person).  Gentlemen  take  their  hats  into  the  theatre, 
and  may  wear  them  during  the  intervals  of  the  performances.  The  attend- 
ants  of  the  vestiaire  usually  bring  a  footstool  (petit  banc)  for  ladiea,  for 
which  they  expect  a  gratuity  of  10-25  c.  In  some  theatres  opera-glassei 
are  placed  in  automatic  boxes  attached  to  the  backs  of  the  seats  and  opened 
by  dropping  hsklf-a-franc  in  the  slot. 

A  list  of  the  most  important  Parisian  theatres  is  here  annexed, 
with  the  prices  of  the  seats  ^au  bureau*  (p.  32). 

The  Opira,  or  Acadimie  Nationale  de  Musique  (Pl.B,  B,  18 ;  II"), 
see  p.  78.  The  admirable  performances  of  the  Parisian  opera  take 
place  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.,  in  winter  on  Sat.  also.  Mon.  and 
Frid.  are  the  fashionable  evenings.  The  ballet  and  the  mUe  in 
schne  are  unsurpassed.   Evening-dress  de  rigueur  in  the  best  seats. 

Avant-sc^nes  and  premieres  loges  de  face  17;  fauteuils  d*amphlllidllre, 

ba/gnoires,  and  premieres  loges  de  c6i/&  ib\  fauteuils  d'orehestn,  loaesis 

face  deuxiemea,  and  baignoires  de  c&t^  \\\  hAxs.'^xsL^^  \(k«*  ^«  eAw  10| 

troiaUmea  Jogea  de  face  8  \  stallee  de  parieTrel  \  av^xA-ftc^u^  ^taXwiliJftiMgaV> 


Information.  9.    THEATRES.  33 

fanteoila  de  quatri^me  amphitheatre  4  ^  loges  des  qnatri^mes  de  face  3  and 
21/2  i  qaatri^mes  de  c6t6  and  dnqui^mes  2  fr. 

The  Thi&tre  Fran9ai8  (PI.  R,  21 ;  //),  or  ConUdie  Fran^aise, 
Place  du  Theatre  -  Franks  ,  near  the  Palais-Royal ,  occupies  the 
highest  rank  among  the  theatres  of  Paris.  The  acting  is  admirable, 
and  the  plays  are  generally  of  a  high  class.  The  Th^^tre  Fran^ais 
was  burned  on  March  8th,  1900;  during  its  reconstruction,  the  per- 
formances of  the  Oom^die  Fran^aise  will  take  place  at  the  Odeon 
(see  below).  Evening-dress  as  at  the  Op^ra.  —  For  a  description 
of  the  edifice  itself,  see  p.  61. 

Avant-sc^nes  des  premiires  loges  10  \  loges  da  rez-de-chans^e,  premieres 
(first  gallery),  aTant-sc^nes  des  deuxi6mes,  and  baignoires  de  face  8*,  fau- 
teuils  de  balcon  8-10;  fauteuils  d^orchestre  8;  loges  de  face  de  deuxi^me 
rang  6i  logea  ddconvertes  de  deuxi^me  rang  5;  loges  de  face  de  troisi^me 
rang  3Vs;  loges  d^couvertes  de  troisi^me  rang  8;  parterre  2Vs;  troisieme 
galerie  et  fauteuils  de  la  quatri^me  2  fr. 

The  OpAra  Comique*  Place  Boieldieu  (PI.  R,  21,  II;  see  p.  77), 
rebuilt  after  the  fire  of  1887,  was  intended  for  the  performance  of 
the  lighter  operas,  but  has  latterly  been  devoted  to  the  more  ambi- 
tious operas  and  to  lyrical  dramas.   Evening-dress  as  at  the  Op^ra. 

Avant-scines  du  rez-de-chauss^e  and  de  balcon  10;  loges  de  balcon, 
baignoires,  fauteuils  d'orchestre,  and  faut.  de  balcon  8;  avant-sc^nes  and 
loges  de  la  premiere  galerie  6 ;  fauteuils  de  la  deuxieme  galerie  4 ;  stalles 
de  parterre  and  avant-sctoes  de  la  deuxieme  galerie  3  fr. 

The  Od^n^,  Place  de  TOd^on  (PI.  R,  19 ;  IV),  near  the  Palais 
du  Luxembourg  (p.  263),  ranks  next  to  the  Theatre  Fran^als,  and 
is  chiefly  devoted  to  the  performance  of  classical  dramas.  During 
1900  the  performances  of  the  Com^die  Fran^aise  will  take  place 
here  (see  above),  while  the  actors  of  the  Odeon  will  play  at  the 
Gymnase  (see  below).  Ladies  are  admitted  to  all  seats  except  the 
parterre.   Evening-dress  usual  in  the  best  seats. 

Avant-scfenes  des  premieres  and  du  rez-de-chauss^e  12;  baignoires 
d^avant-sc^ne  10;  premieres  loges  de  face  8;  fauteuils  d'orchestre  6;  fau- 
teuils de  la  premiere  galerie  6  and  5;  stalles  de  la  deuxieme  galerie  3Vs; 
deux,  loges  de  face  3;  parterre  2Vs  fr. 

The  GyBULase  (PI.  R,  24;  lit),  Boulevard  Bonne-Nouvelle  38, 
chiefly  for  comedies,  is  one  of  the  best  theatres  in  Paris.  Scribe 
wrote  most  of  his  plays  for  this  theatre.  Vict.  Sardou,  Alex.  Dumas 
the  Younger,  EmUe  Angler,  and  Octave  Feuillet  have  also  achieved 
great  successes  here. 

Avant-sc^nes  du  rez-de-chauss^e  and  de  balcon  15;  baignoires,  fauteuils 
d''orche8tre,  loges,  and  fauteuils  de  balcon  10;  fauteuils  de  foyer  7;  loges 
de  foyer  6  and  5;  avantsc^nes  de  foyer  5;  loges  de  deuxieme  galerie  3 
and  2Vs;  stalles  de  deuxieme  galerie  2  and  IV2  fi^M  etc.  —  The  prices  *en 
location'  (p.  32)  are  the  same. 

The  Vaudeville  (PI.  R,  18,  21;  /i),  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue 
de  la  Chauss^e-d'Antin  and  the  Boulevard  des  Capucines,  is  chiefly 
destined  for  dramas  and  comedies.  Gelling  painted  by  MaLox^W^. 
Mme.  Rtfjane  plays  here. 

Avant-scfenes  du  rez-de-chauss^e  and  des  premiferea  ^1^  fte^\.?ri  V&>  It  .  %.%.Oa. 
seat;  ^remibrea  loges  (6,  6,  and  4  seats)  12 1  baignoirea  ^^,  ti,  iwx^  ^  ^'^    vv^ 
iOi  Aatenils  de  balcon,  premier  rang  12 %  deuxibme  twv%  asv^  i^w\.«<»:^'» 
BjjtoBKMA  Paris.    i4th  Edit,  ^ 


34  9.  THEATRES.  PtOktUmuy 

d'orchestre  10;  fauteuils  de  foyer  7  and  6;  logos  de  foyer  6;  nTant  ■oftncM 
and  deuxi^mes  leges  de  foyer  6 ;  troisi^es  1,  8,  and  2  fr. 

The  VbxiMb  (PI.  R,  21 ;  III),  Boulevard  Montmartre,  excel- 
lent for  vaudevilles,  farces,  operettas,  and  similar  lively  pleoes  of 
essentially  Parisian  character. 

Avant-sc^nes  du  rez-de-chanssde  and  des  premieres  (6  seats)  122  baic^ 
noires  (6,  5,  and  4  seats)  and  leges  de  premiere  galerie  (6  andasaats)  10{ 
fauteuils  de  baleen  12  and  10;  fauteuils  d'ercbestre  90  and  7|  fautauuade 
foyer  5  and  4 ;  deuxi^me  galerie  4  and  8  fr. 

Thi&tre  dn  PalaiB-Boyal,  at  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  Palais  Boytl, 
Rne  Montpensier  74  (PI.  R,  21 ;  //},  a  small  but  very  popniu  the- 
atre, where  vaudevilles  and  farces  of  broad  character  are  performed. 
Ladies  are  not  admitted  to  the  orchestra. 

Avant-sc^nes  and  fauteuils  de  balcon  premier  rang  8|  premfiret 
leges,  baignoires,  fauteuils  de  baleen  and  d^orchestre  7;  deuziftmea  lofU, 
fauteuils  de  galerie,  deuxi^mes  de  face,  and  stalles  d^orchestreS;  deuzlteas 
loges  and  fauteuils  de  galerie  4;  stalles  de  la  deuxi^ma  galerie  S^/a  fr. 

Thi&tre  de  la  Porte  St.  M&rtin  (PI.  R,  24;  ///),  Boaleyard  St. 
Martin  16.  Dramas,  such  as  'Cyrano  de  Bergerac'  Goqnelln  atntf 
acts  here. 

Avant-sc&nes  du  rez-de-cbauss^e  and  du  premier  ^tage,  baignoircif  amd 
premieres  leges  de  balcon  10;  fauteuils  de  premier  balcon  10  and  8;  fJauteoUs 
d'orebestre  8;  avant-seenes  and  fauteuils  d^orchestre  6;  faatauHB  and  loges 
de  premiere  galerie  4  and  3;  deuxi^me  galerie  2  f^. 

Thi&tre  Lyrique  de  la  Benaissaxiee  (PI.  R,  24;  ///),  next  door 
to  the  preceding.    Comic  operas. 

Avant-sc^nes  du  res-de-chauss^  and  balcon  10;  baignolrea  8(  logos  da 
baleen  and  fauteuils  de  balcon  (1st  and  2nd  rows)  7;  other  rowa  aail 
fauteuils  d'orebestre  6;  fauteuils  and  loges  de  premUre  galcnrie  4  and  3| 
deuxicme  galerie  2  fr. 

Th6lLtre  Antoine  (PI.  R,  24;  ///),  Boul.  de  Strasbourg  14,  for 
modern  comedies.    Excellent  performances. 

Avant-seenes  du  rea  -  de  -  chauss^e  and  de  balcon  8  f^.;  logefl  7  fir.; 
baignoires  6  fi. ;  fauteuils  d'orcbestre  and  fauteuils  de  baloon  (flrat  row) 
5fr.;  fauteuils  de  balcon  (ether  rows)  4fr.;  loges  des  foyer  and  favtenils 
de  foyer  (first  row)  3  fr. ;  avant-seenes  de  foyer  2Vs  fr.  —  The  prices  ea 
location  (p.  32)  are  tbe  same. 

Th^tre  de  la  Oaiti  (PI.  R,  24;  ///),  Square  des  Artt-et-Mtf- 
tiers.  It  has  several  times  changed  its  name  and  its  specialty; 
at  present  comic  operas,  spectacular  pieces,  etc.,  are  glTen. 

Avant-sc^nes  du  rez-de-chauss^e  and  de  premiere  galerie  and  baig^ 
noires  10;  fauteuils  and  leges  de  premiere  galerie  8;  fauteuUs  d*or«hMtia 
7;  avant-sc^nes,  loges,  and  fauteuils  de  deuxicme  galerie  5;  stalles  d*or- 
chestre  4;  stalles  de  deuxicme  galerie  3;  de  treisi^me  galerie  S^/i  and  3fr. 

Thi&tre  dn  Ch&telet,  Place  du  Chatelet  (PI.  R,  24;  V),  a  Teiy 
roomy  edifice,  specially  fitted  up  for  spectacular  pieces  and  ballet. 

Loges  (6  and  8  seats)  and  baignoires  (4  seats)  V/t  fr.;  fimtenlli  de 
balcon  8;  fauteuils  d'orcheatre  8  and  6;  stalles  de  galerie  6;  premier  as* 
pbith^atre  3;  deuxicme  ampbithdatre  272  fr. 

Th^Htre  Sarah  Bernhardt  (PI.  R,  23 ;  V),  Place  du  Ch&telet, 
opposite  the  preceding,  for  dramas  and  comedies,  under  the  manage- 
ment  of  the  celebrated  actress. 

Avant-acimea  du  rez  -  de  -  chauss^e  an^  de  \>«\cqiv^  VblY.\  ^mAcboIivSi 
Joffea,  and /auteuiJfl  de  balcon  premier  raugi^*^  la,\i\fcu\\a  ^^  ^        ^ 


Information.  9.  THEATRES.  35 

and  d^orchestre  10;  loges  d«  premiere  galerie  7;  fauteuils  de  premiere 
galerie  6;  avant-Bcenes  de  premiere  and  de  deuzieme  gal.  4;  stalles  de 
parterre  3Vs ;  fauteoils  de  deuxieme  galerie  2V2  ^*  —  The  prices  en  loca- 
tion (p.  32)  are  the  same. 

Th^&tre  des  VonveaaUs  (PI.  R,  21),  Boulevard  dee  Italiens^S; 
foi  operettas )  vaudevilles,  etc. 

Avant-sc^nea  du  res-de-chanis^e  and  des  premieres  (4  seats)  12V2  fr. ; 
baignoires  and  loges  debalcon  (5  and  4  seats)  8;  avant-sc^nes  de  dexuci^me 

talerie  8;  fauteuils  d''orchestre  and  de  balcon  7;  loges  and  fauteuils  de 
enxifeme  galerie  4;  stalles  de  troisi^me  galerie  8  fr. 

Bouffes  Parisiens  (PI.  R,  21 ;  II),  a  small  theatre  in  the  Passage 
Choiseul,  the  specialty  of  whicli  is  operettas. 

Avant-sc^nes  dn  rez-de-chauss^e  (6  seats)  10^  baignoires  and  loges  de 
balcon  (5  and  4  seats)  8*,  avant-scdnes  de  deuxieme  galerie  8;  fauteuils 
d^orchestre  and  de  balcon  7;  loges  and  fauteuils  de  deuxieme  galerie  4; 
stalles  de  troisi^me  galerie  3  fr. 

Ambiga-Gomiqiitt  (PI.  R,  24;  ///),  Boulevard  St.  Martin  4; 
dramas,  melodramas,  and  'patriotic*  pieces. 

Premieres  avant-sc^nes  9;  premieres  loges  8;  fauteuils  d^orchestre  7, 
6,  and  6;  fauteuils  de  foyer  4  and  8  fr. 

Op6ra  Populaire  (PI.  R,  27 ;  77/),  Rue  de  Bondy  40,  near  the 
Boulevard  St.  Martin. 

Fauteuils  de  balcon  5  fr.;  fauteuils  d^orchestre  4  and  3;  stalles  2; 
premiere  galerie  1  fr.  60 ;  deuxieme  galerie  1  fr.  and  75  c. 

Among  the  best  of  the  other  theatres  are  the  following :  — 

TMdtre  de  Chtnyj  Boul.  St  Germain  71,  near  the  Mus^e  de 
Cluny,  the  *Gymnase*  of  the  left  bank  (seats  1-6  fr.).  —  AthinSe,  Rue 
Boudreau,  Square  de  I'Op^ra  (PI.  R  18,  77;  1 1/2-8  fr.).  —  Dijazet, 
Boul.  du  Temple  41  (V2-5  ^r.).  —  ThSdtre  de  la  Ripublique^  Rue 
de  Malte  50,  near  the  Place  de  la  R^publique  (V2-6  fr.). 

The  Thidtre  Robert  Houdin,  Boulevard  des  Italiens  8,  for  con- 
juring of  all  kinds,  may  also  be  mentioned  here.  Admission  2  to  5  fr. 

EaxTBSTBiAN  Pebfobmances  ,  accompauled  by  acrobatic  feats, 
pantomime,  etc. ,  are  exhibited  at  the  following  circuses :  — 

Kouveau  Cirque,  Rue  St.  Honor^  47  (PI.  R,  18;  77),  with  an 
arena  which  may  be  flooded  at  a  moment's  notice  for  aquatic  spec- 
tacles. The  floor  is  formed  of  perforated  planks  covered  with  mat- 
ting; at  a  given  signal  the  matting  is  rolled  up,  the  planking 
descends,  and  water  gushes  in  on  all  sides.  Performances  from  1st 
Oct.  to  30th  June.   Adm.  5,  3,  and  (promenade  only)  2  fr. 

drqae  Palace  (formerly  Cirque  d!tt6;  PI.  R,  15,  77),  Avenue 
Matignon,  near  the  Rond-Point  des  Ghamps-Elys^es.  Performances 
every  evening  from  April  to  October.  Seats  for  3500.  Admission 
10,  6,  and  3  fr. 

Cirque  d'Hiver  (PI.  R,  27 ;  777),  Rue  de  Crussol  6.  Performances 
from  let  Nov.  to  30th  April.    Adm.  1/2-^  fr- 

Cirque  Midrano  (PI.  B,  20) ,   Rue  des  Martyrs  T'l^^.    k^TSics.^- 
sion  75  c.  to  3  fr. 

mppodromefPl.  B,  17),  Rue  Caulalncouit^,  xveax  XYife  ^^^^'^'^^'i 
of  Montmartre. 

^* 


36  9.   BALLS.  IVeMfUmivy 

Music  Halls.  The  Folia  -  Btrglrt,  Rue  Richer  32  (PI.  B,  2/,- 
III) ,  is  a  very  popular  resort ,  half  theatre ,  half  oaf^Hsoncert. 
Visitors  either  take  seats  or  promenade  in  the  gallery,  while  the 
performances  are  going  on  on  the  stage.  Smoking  allowed.  Adm. 
2-6  fr.  —  The  Folies-Marigny,  Avenue  Marigny  (PI.  R,  16 ;  II),  in 
summer  only  (adm.  3-8fr.)j  the  Olympia  (adm.  7  fr.),  BouloTtid 
des  Capucines  28 ;  and  the  Casino  de  Paris  (2-6  fr.),  Rue  deGlichy  16 
(PI.  B,  18),  are  establishments  of  the  same  kind.  Some  of  the  Gaf^ 
Concerts  provide  similar  entertainments. 

Caf^s-Concerts.  The  music  and  singing  at  these  establish- 
ments is  never  of  a  high  class,  while  the  audience  is  of  a  very 
mixed  character.  The  entertainments,  however,  are  often  amnsing, 
and  sometimes  consist  of  vaudevilles,  operettas,  and  farees.  Smok- 
ing  allowed.  The  alluring  display  of  the  words  ^entrie  libre'  ontside 
the  caf^s-chantants  is  a  ruse  to  attract  the  public,  as  each  yisitor  is 
obliged  to  order  refreshments  (a  ^consommation^'),  which  are  gen- 
erally of  inferior  quality,  at  a  price  of  3/^-5  fr. ,  according  to  the 
seat  and  the  reputation  of  the  place.  —  The  following  nuy  he 
mentioned.  In  summer :  Cafi  des  Amhassadeura  (}/f-6  fr.),  in  the 
Champs-Ely s^es,  the  first  on  the  right;  the  Alcazar  d*£u  (Vr^  ^Oi 
the  second  on  the  right ;  and  the  Jardin  de  Parts,  on  the  left.  In 
winter  (a  few  open  also  in  summer) :  the  8eala,  Boul.  de  Strasbonig 
13,  with  a  handsome  saloon,  unroofed  in  summer  (adm.  1-6  fir.) ;  the 
Eldorado^  No.  4,  nearly  opposite;  Parisianaj  Boul.  Poissonniere  27 
(adm.  2-6  fr.) ;  Concert  Parisien,  Rue  du  Rue  Faubourg-St-Denls  37 
(1/2-3  fr.) ;  Petit  Casino,  Boul.  Montmartre  12  (I1/2  and  1  fr.,  with  t 
^consommation') ;  Bniaclan,  Bonl.  Voltaire  50  (8/4-4  fr.);  Le  Orand^ 
Guignoly  Rue  Chaptal  20  his  j  La  Cigale,  Boul.  Rochechouart  122 
(3/4-5  fr.);  the  GaUi Rochechouart,  Boul.  Rochechouart  16;  Diooii 
Japonais,  Rue  des  Martyrs  75  (^4"^  ^^-1?  ^^  PSpint^re,  Rne  de  la 
Pc^pini^re  9,  near  the  Gare  St.  Lazare  (80  C.-2V2  fr.). 

Gabarets  Artistiqaes.  The  establishmenta  that  have  attained  a  certain 
celebrity  under  this  name  are  a  kind  of  cross  between  the  caf^eoncert 
and  the  caf^-brasserie.  The  entertainmeni<),  which  consist  of  songs,  myrtle 
illusions,  shadow-plays,  etc.,  are  often  clever,  but  presuppose  a  conaldenble 
knowledge  of  colloquial  French.  These  cabarets  are  scarcely  anitable  for 
ladies.  Most  of  them  are  situated  at  Montmartre  (*La  Butte") :  L'AneRimg9y 
Avenue  Trudaine  28;  Le  Mirliton,  Conservatoire  de  Montmartre^  Boul.  Boehd* 
choxiart  84  and  108  •,  Le  Carillon ,  Rue  de  la  Tour  d' Auvergne  43  \  CahmM 
de  VEnfer  and  Cabaret  du  del,  Cabaret  du  Niant,  Cabaret  da  QftaTtt'^ria^ 
Boul.  de  Clichy  53,  84,  and  62;  La  Roulotte,  Rue  de  Douai  42;  Le  Tr4Um 
de  TabaHn,  Rue  Pigalle  5S. 

Balls.  The  public  masked  balls  given  during  the  GainiTal  (see 
announcements  in  newspapers  and  placards)  are  among  the  most 
striking  and  extravagant  of  the  peculiar  Institutions  of  Paris.  These 
'bals  masques'  begin  at  midnight  and  last  till  dawn.  The  moat  im- 
portant are  those  in  the  Opera  House,  of  which  three  take  plaoe 
between  January  and  Shrove  Tuesday  and  one  at  'Mi-Gardme*  or 
Mid'Lent  (admiBsion  for  gentlemen  20,  \ai^\ft%  iO  lx.\  ladies  in 
masks,  geutlemen  in  masks  or  evening  costume^.    N\s\\«i%'^ft^ 


Information.  10.   CONCERTS.  37 

ladles  had  better  take  a  box.    During  the  Camlyal  masked  balls  are 
held  in  the  Olympia  (p.  36),  the  Casino  de  Paris  (p.  36),  etc. 

Salles  db  Dansb.  The  ^balls\  which  take  place  all  the  year 
ronnd  at  these  public  dancing-rooms,  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the 
specialties  of  Paris.  Many  of  these  entertainments,  however,  have 
for  some  years  past  been  to  a  great  extent  ^got  up^  for  the  benefit  of 
strangers,  numbers  of  the  supposed  visitors  being  hired  as  decoys  by 
the  lessee  of  the  saloon.  It  need  hardly  be  said  that  ladies  cannot 
attend  these  balls.  The  chief  of  these  places  of  amusement  on  the 
right  bank  is  perhaps  the  Moulin  Bouge,  Boul.  de  Clichy  88(P1.  B,  17), 
opposite  the  Rue  Fontaine,  which  is  also  a  kind  of  mnsic-hall 
(adm.  2  or  3  fr.  according  to  the  entertainment).  —  The  Bal  Bul- 
Uer,  Avenue  de  TObservatoire  33  (PI.  G,  19  ;  p.  286),  in  the  Quar- 
tier  Latin,  is  noted  as  a  resort  of  students  (adm.  1  or  2  fr. ,  chief 
days  Sun.  and  Thurs.).  —  The  dances  of  the  Moulin  de  la  Oalette, 
Rue  Lepic  79,  Montmartre,  and  of  the  Salle  Wagram  (1  fr.),  Avenue 
de  Wagram  39bia,  near  the  Arc  de  Triomphe,  are  also  popular. 

Panoramas.  The  Battle  of  Jena,  with  10  dioramas,  by  Poilpot, 
Boulevards  Delessert  1,  near  the  Trocad^ro  (PI.  R,  8;  /).  The 
Bastille,  also  by  Poilpot,  Place  Diderot  or  Mazas  (Pi.  R,  25;  V). 
Several  at  Montmartre  (religious  subjects)  near  the  church  of  the 
Sacr^-CoBur  (p.  205).  Adm.  1/2-I  fr. 

The  Hnsie  Orivin,  Boul.  Montmartre  10,  is  a  collection  of  wax 
figures;  adm.  (1-11  p.m.)  2,  Sun.  1  fr.,  children  at  half-price. 
Orchestra  from  3  to  6  and  8  to  10.45.  —  Establishments  of  a  similar 
kind  are  the  Musie  de  la  Porte  St.  Derds,  Boul.  St.  Denis  8  (60  c), 
and  the  Nouveau  Musie,  Boul.  Montmartre  14  (50  c). 

Phonographs:  Salon  des  Phonograpfies  (Fsitli^^j  Boulevard  des 
Italiens  26 ;  Columbiay  Boulevard  des  Italiens  34. 

10.   Concerts,  Art  Exhibitions,  Sport,  and  Clubs. 

Concerts.  The  concerts  of  the  Conservatoire  de  Musique  (p.  76), 
Rue  du  Faubourg-Poissonni^re,  which  enjoy  a  European  celebrity, 
take  place  every  Sunday  from  January  to  April.  The  highest  order 
of  classical  music  is  performed  with  exquisite  taste  and  precision. 

As  all  the  seats  are  taken  by  subscription,  admission  for  strangers  is 
possible  only  when  tickets  are  returned  by  subscribers  (apply  9-11  a.m.  to 
the  office,  Eue  du  Conservatoire  2).  —  Premiferes  loges  and  stalles  de 
galerie  16  fr. ;  stalles  d'orchestre  12  fr. ;  loges  du  rez-de-chauss^e  10  fr. ; 
deuxi^mes  loges  9  fr. ;  troisiemes  loges  and  stalles  d' amphitheatre  5  fr. ; 
amphitheatre  4  fr. 

The  Cor^erts  Lamoureux,  for  classical  and  Wagner  music,  also 
take  place  on  Sunday  afternoons  in  winter  in  the  Theatre  de  la 
R^publique  (p.  35).  Adm.  II/2-8  fr. 

Similar  to  the  last  are  the  Concerts  Colonnc,  nAAqXv  ^x^V^^  ^^ 
Sun.  Bfternoon  in  winter  in  the  Th^tee  d\i  C\iUe\e\,  a.^^  ^"^"^^^^^T 
afternooD  in  the  NouYe&n  ThtfUtre,  Rue  BlaiicViei  Vb  ^a.^m.  'X-'o  vt •>• 


38  10.  SPORTS.  AvUmMory 

Besides  the  above  regular  coneertt,  otherf  are  given  occMionally  at 
the  concert-rooms  of  frard,  BaeduMaillS;  PUpa.  Uae  Bocheehoiurt  S) 
and  other  places.    See  bills  and  newspaper  adTertuements  (adm.  5-30fr.)L 

Open-air  concerts  in  summer  at  the  Jardin  d^AeeUmatatkm 
(p.  1 62 ).  Military  Bands  also  play  (4-5  or  5-6  p.m.)  in  fhe  gaidem 
of  the  Tuilerles  (Snn.,  Tnes.,  and  Thnrs.),  the  Palais-Royal  (Son., 
Wed.,  and  Frid.j,  the  Lnxemboorg  (Snn.,  Tnes.,  and  Frid.),  and 
in  several  other  parks  and  squares ;  the  favonrite  isthat  of  the  GMe 
R^pnblicaine  (programmes  in  the  daily  papers). 

The  best  Ghorch  Music  is  heard  at  the  Madeleine  (p.  81),  AT.  JtocA 
(p.  85),  La  TriniU  (p.  196),  Notre-Dame  (p.  324),  and  m,  Sulpiee  (p.  260). 

Art  Exhibitions.  A  number  of  exhibitions  of  ait  take  place 
annually  in  Paris  towards  the  end  of  winter  and  In  spring,  of  wUeh 
particulars  are  advertised  in  the  ^Chroniqne  des  Arts'  (eyery  Sat) 
and  other  newspapers.  The  annual  exhibitions  of  the  SoeUU  def 
Beaux  ArU  and  the  Soditi  dea  Artistes  Francais  axe  to  be  held  from 
!*,)()  1  onwards  in  the  Grand  Palais  des  Beanx-Arts  (p.  167).  In 
1000  the  show  of  the  last-named  society  is  established  in  temporary 
quarters  in  the  Place  Breteuil  (PI.  R,  18 ;  IV).  ExhiMtlons  are  alio 
organized  by  the  Cercle  Artistique  et  Littiraire  (p.  39)  and  by  tha 
Union  Artistique  (p.  39).  Smaller  exhibitions  are  held  in  the  OiUerk 
Georges  Petit,  Rue  de  S^ze  8;  the  Oalerie  Durand-Bisel,  Rue  Laf- 
fltte  16;  the  Art  Nouveau  (Bing),  Rue  de  Provence  22. 


Horse  Ra4se8  (Courses)  take  place  from  February  to  NoTem- 
ber,  at  Auteuil  (p.  161);  Longchamp  (p.  162),  where  the  Qiind 
Prix,  the  chief  French  race,  is  decided,  usually  on  the  second  Son- 
day  after  the  English  Derby ;  Chantilly  (p.  369) ;  Yineennesfp.  3W); 
Neumy-Levalloi3(Pl.  B,  4;  trotting-matches);  La  Marehe  ^. 3271 ; 
Enghien  (p.  339);  Maisons-Laffltte  (p.  344);  St.  Onen  (p.  209); 
Colombes  (p.  342),  etc.  Full  details  in  the  newspapers.  —  Hembm 
of  the  English  Jockey  Club  are  admitted  to  all  the  privilegea  of 
the  French  Jockey  Club  (p.  39). 

Boating  is  a  favourite  summer-recreation,  the  chief  8taitin|- 
points  being  Asniftres(p.  291),  Argenteuil(p.  341),  Ghatoa(p.32^, 
and  Bougivai  (p.  329)  on  the  Seine,  and  Joinville-le-Pont  (p.  3Cw) 
and  Nogent  (p.  306)  on  the  Marne.  Regattas  are  frequently  held. 

Cycling  is  one  of  the  favourite  amusements  of  the  day,  and  li 
largely  patronized  by  ladies,  many  of  whom  wear  ^rational*  dieas. 
For  police-regulations,  etc.,  see  p.  xv. 

The  largest  cycling  clubs  in  France  are  the  Touring  Club  de  /Vomm,  Plaet 
de  la  Bourse  10  (75,000  members),  and  the  Union  rilodpidiqme  4€  hmet, 
Kue  des  Buns  Enfants  21  (20.000  members).  Comp.  the  ^Annnaire  QMatel 
de  la  V^locipddie',  published  annually  in  Paris. 

Cycles  may  be  hired  (1  fr.  per  hr.,  3  fr.  per  half-day,  5  fir.  per  day)  al 
:tlmo8t  &U  the  cycle  shops,  especially  those  in  the  Avenue  de  la  r" 


Arm4e.  —  C7c]e-track0 :   Y^lodxwM,  Municipal  du  Rois  de  Vinc€iifi«#  (p.  SOSX 
where  the  *Qrand  Prix  de  Paris'  is  competed,  tox  Viv  3xvti<&\  V«toair«aA  i»  Bare 
^^^  JYince*,  at  Anteuil;  etc  —  2>eal«r«,  see  p.  Ift.  —  TRa.'^^,  w» 'fe.  «L 


in/bfifMrfton.  10.  CLUBS.  39 

Automobiles  are  also  now  mnch  *en  vogue*  in  France.  The 
Automobile  Club  de  France  (see  below)  ranks  among  the  first  French 
clubs.  The  Parisian  calls  the  machine  *Teuf  teuf ,  and  the  drivers 
^Chauffeurs*  and  ^Chauffeuses*. 

Skating  (Patinage)  is  much  practised  in  Paris,  the  favourite 
resort  being  the  artificial  ponds  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  There  is  a 
Skating  Club,  for  which  one  of  the  ponds  is  reserved  (see  p.  162). 
Many  skaters  go  to  Yersailles,  where  the  Grand  Canal  in  the  park  of 
the  ChUteau  presents  a  larger  surface  of  ice  and  is  less  crowded  than 
the  lakes  of  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  A  portion  of  the  canal  is  reserved 
(adm.  1  fr.).  Military  band  on  Sun.  afternoon.  —  Skating  on  arti- 
ficial ice  is  practised  from  October  to  the  end  of  April  at  the  PcdaU 
de  Olace  in  the  Champs-Elys^es  (PI.  B,  16,  JIj  adm.  in  the  morning 
and  evening  3,  afternoon  5  fr.). 

Other  axnuaements  are  FootbaU^  played  especially  in  the  Bois  de  Bou- 
logne, near  the  lakes;  Orou-Country  Rum  or  Paper-Chtuu  (hrallye-papers'), 
in  the  woods  in  the  direction  of  St.  Cloud,  Ville  d'Avray,  and  Meudon; 
Bowls,  with  clubs  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  and  Bois  de  Vineennes  *,  PolOy 
in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  near  the  Pont  de  Suresnes;  Orietet;  Lawn  Tennis. 
There  is  a  Oolf  Course  at  Maisons-Laffitte  (p.  344). 


Clubs  (  Cercles),  The  following  are  the  principal  clubs  of  Paris,  to 
most  of  which  strangers  are  admitted  during  their  stay  on  the  introduc- 
tion of  a  member :  Jockey' Club ^  Rue  Scribe,  Ibisj  CercU  Militaire 
(or  ^Cerde  National  des  Armies  de  Terre  et  de  Mer'),  Avenue  and 
Place  de  I'Op^ra ;  Cercle  National,  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra  6 ;  Union 
Artisiique  (TEpatanf),  Rue  Boiasy-d'Anglas  5 ;  Cercle  de  la  Bue 
BoyaUf  Place  de  la  Concorde  4 ;  Cercle  de  V  Union,  Boulevard  de  la 
Madeleine  11 ;  Cercle  Artittique  et  LitUraire,  Rue  Volney  7;  Yacht 
Club,  Place  de  TOp^ra  6;  Automobile  Club,  Place  de  la  Concorde  6 ; 
Grand  Cercle  Bepublicain,  Rue  de  Grammont  30 ;  Cercle  des  Capu- 
cine$,  BooL  des  Capucines  6 ;  /Sperttny  Club,  Rue  Caumartiu  2;  Cercle 
dea  Chemina  de  Fer,  Rue  de  la  Michodifere  22  j  Cercle  de  VEscrime, 
Rue  Taitbout9;  Grand  Cercle,  Boul.  Montmartre  16;  Cercle  Central, 
Rue  Vivienne  36 ;  Cercle  AgricoU,  Boul.  St.  Germain  284 ;  Cercle  de 
la  Librairie,  Boul.  St.  Germain  117;  Club  Alpin  Fran^aiSj  Rue  du 
Bac  30;  Touring  Club,  Place  de  la  Bourse  10.  —  Gaming  is  practised 
extensively  in  most  of  the  clubs. 

11.   Shops  and  Baiaars. 

Shops.  With  the  exception  of  the  houses  in  the  aristocratic 
Faubourg  St.  Germain,  there  are  few  buildings  in  central  Paris  which 
have  not  shops  on  the  groundfloor.  The  most  attractive  are  those 
in  the  Grands  Boulevards,  the  Rue  de  la  Paix,  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra, 
Rue  Royale,  Rue  Vivienne,  and  Rue  de  Rivoli. 

A  few  of  the  best  and  most  respectable  ol  Wi^  mxvoxafc^^^s^ 
and  tempting  'mag&sina'  of  Paris  are  here  enumetaX.^^.   '^^^  ^xv^^.^i's^ 
are  generally  somewbat  high,  and  not  always  ftxe^,  ^s^^cviJ^^  ^Vcvv 


40  11.    SHOPS.  PreUminarjf 

the  purchaser  is  not  thoroughly  versed  in  French.  Strangen  ilumld 
avoid  shops  in  which  ^English  spoken*  is  announced,  as  tilie  Eng^ 
lish-speaking  shopman  is  almost  always  ^temporarily  absent,  and 
the  use  of  English  only  invites  an  attempt  to  fleece  the  foreigner. 
Those  shops  which  announce  a  VenU  Forcee  or  Liquidation  Bkoiild 
also  be  avoided.  Those  are  most  satisfactory  in  which  the  pzioe  of 
each  article  is  marked  on  it  in  plain  figures. 

The  Gbands  Maoasins  db  Noutbaut^s,  large  establislimenti 
for  the  sale  of  all  kinds  of  materials  for  ladies'  dress,  tdinmingi, 
laces ,  etc. ,  form  a  very  important  feature  of  modem  Paris ,  and 
owing  to  the  abundant  choice  of  goods  they  offer  are  gradoally 
superseding  the  smaller  shops.  Perhaps  the  most  important  of  these 
establishments  is  the  Bon  Marchi,  Rue  du  Bac  135  and  137,  and 
Rue  de  Sevres  18-24  (PI.  R,  16 ;  /V),  rather  distant  from  the  centre 
of  the  town,  with  which  may  be  mentioned  the  Orands  MagcuifU 
du  Louvre,  in  the  Place  du  Palais-Royal  (PI.  R,  20,  II -^  p.  69), 
with  reading  and  writing  rooms ,  and  a  buffet  where  refteshmenti 
are  dispensed  gratis.  Of  a  similar  character  are:  Lt  PrinUmipt^ 
at  the  comer  of  the  Boul.  Haussmann  and  the  Rue  dn  Havre;  the 
Petit  St.  Thomas,  Rue  du  Bac  27-35  ;  A  la  Place  Clichy^  in  the  place 
of  that  name ;  the  Ville  de  8t,  Denis,  Rue  du  Faubourg-St-Denii 
91-^5;  Pygmalion,  corner  of  the  Rues  St.  Denis  and  de  Rivoli,  and 
Boul.  de  S^astopol  9-13 ;  the  Samaritaine,  Rue  du  Pont-Neuf  and 
Rue  de  Rivoli,  moderate.  The  prices  affixed  to  articles  in  the 
windows  and  at  the  doors  of  these  establishments  are  often  no  crite- 
rion of  those  charged  within. 

Similar  to  these  Grands  Magasins  de  Nouveaut^s  are  the  Ba- 
zAABs,  at  some  of  which  all  kinds  of  household  requisites  and 
luxuries  may  be  obtained,  while  others  devote  themselves  to  cheap 
goods  of  every  kind.  Perhaps  the  most  attractive  of  the  former  is 
the  large  Bazar  de  VHdtel-de-  Vill&,  Rue  de  Rivoli  50-54,  beside 
the  H6tel  de  Ville.  The  MSnaglre  Bazaar,  Boul.  Bonne-Nou'velle 
20,  has  lately  been  rebuilt.  Of  a  similar  character  are  the  Nouvella 
Galeries,  Avenue  de  Clichy  43.  Among  the  others  may  be  mentioned 
the  Bazar  de  V Quest,  Rue  d' Amsterdam,  near  the  Gare  St.  Lazare, 
the  Oaleries  MSiropole,  Rue  du  Faubourg  -  Mont martre  16  ft  18, 
and  the  Bazar  du  Chdteau  d'Eau ,   Rue  du  Faubourg-du-Temple  2. 

Antiquities  and  Cubiositibs:  Laurent,  Rue  Meyerbeer  2,  first 
floor ;  Stettiner^  Rue  St.  Georges  7 ;  Lowengard^  Boul.  des  Gapu- 
clnes  i;  A  la  Croix  de  ma  Mhre,  Quai  Malaquais  19 ;  Jamarin^  Bue 
de  Clichy  35;  Seligmann,  Place  Vend6me  23  (Rue  de  la  Paix).  — 
Chinese  and  Japanese  Goods :  Dai-Nippon,  Boul.  des  Gap'ucines  o  &  5. 

'Abticles  db  Voyagb'  :  Bazar  du  Voyage  and  Moynat,  Avenue 
de  rOp^ra  3  j  Au  Depart,  same  street  29 ;  Goyard,  Rue  St.  Honortf 
223 ;  and  at  the  Bazaars  (p.  40).  English  goods  at  Old  England^ 
Boul.  des  CapuciDes  12. 

Bootmakers  fbottier,  cordonnitr;  booUa-u^  %Vvo«i%,«iKaua«wttaV« 


Information.  11.  SHOPS.  41 

Poivret,  Rue  des  Petits-Champs  32 ;  Pinet,  Boul.  de  la  Madeleine 

1  and  Rue  de  Paradis  44 ;  Detail,  Passage  Jouffroy  46 ;  Bacquart, 
Passage  Jouffroy  35.  —  For  Ladies:  A  la  Merveilleuae^  Avenne  de 
rOp^ra  24;  A  fa  Qavotte^  same  street  26;  Ferry ,  Rue  des  Pyiamides 
9.  —  Ready-made  boots  and  shoes  may  be  procured  in  almost  every 
street :  Au  Ptince  Euglne^  Rue  de  Turblgo  29 ;  Baoul,  Boul.  des 
Italiens  22;  and  many  others.  —  English  boots  and  shoes  at  Boule- 
yard  Montmartre  3,  15,  and  21 ;  Boul.  des  Gapucines  8. 

Bbonzbs  (bronzes  d'art) :  *Barhedienrhey  Boul.  Poissonniftre  30 ; 
♦TAi^aut,  Avenue  del'Optfra  32;  Siot-DecauvilU,  Boul.  des  Italiens 
24;  Ardavani,  Boul.  des  Italiens  27;  Boudet,  Boul.  des  Capucines 
43;  Caisso  ^  Cte.,  Boul.  de  la  Madeleine  1;  Colin,  Boul.  Mont- 
martre 5;  Suaae  Frlrea,  Place  de  la  Bourse  31.  —  Church  bronzes 
and  ornaments  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Sulpice  (p.  253). 

Ohbmists  and  Dbugoists:  Pharmacie  Normale,  Rue  Drouot  19 ; 
FerrS,  Rue  de  Richelieu  102 ;  Pharmade  Centrale  des  BoulevardSf 
Rue  Montmartre  178;  Homiopathique,  Boul.  Haussmann  21 ;  Tanret, 
Rue  Basse-du-Rempart  64;  T.P.  Hogg^  Swann,  Rue  de  Castiglione 

2  and  12 ;  BoberU  ^  Co.  (Shorthoae),  Rue  de  la  Paix  5 ;  W.  D.  Hogg, 
Avenue  des  Champs-  Elys^es  62  (the  last  four  are  English). 

Chocolatb,  Tba,  etc. :  Compagnie  Coloniale,  Ave.  de  I'Optfra  19 ; 
F,  Marquis,  Passage  des  Panoramas  57-59,  Rue  Vivienne  44,  and 
Boul.  des  Capucines  39;  Lombart,  Boul.  des  Italiens  11;  Masson, 
Boul.  de  la  Madeleine  9,  Rue  de  Rivoli  91,  and  Rue  du  Louvre  8  ; 
Pihan,  Rue  du  Faubourg-St-Honor^ 4 ;  Ouerin-Boutron,  Boul.  Pois- 
sonni^re  29 ;  Potin,  see  Delicacies.   See  also  Conflseurs. 

CiGABS.  The  manufacture  and  sale  of  tobacco  ('caporal  ordi- 
naire' and  *suptfrieur')  and  cigars  is  a  monopoly  of  government. 
The  shops,  called  debits  de  la  rigie,  are  distinguished  by  their  red 
lamps.  The  prices  and  quality  are  the  same  everywhere.  English 
and  American  tobacco  may  be  obtained  at  various  shops  in  the  Rue 
de  Rivoli,  the  Boulevards,  and  other  streets  frequented  by  strangers. 

Good  imported  cigars  (25  c.  each,  and  upwards)  may  be  purchased  at 
the  principal  dep6t,  Quai  d'Orsay  63,  at  the  Place  de  la  Bourse  15,  at  Rue 
St.  Honors  157  ^A  la  Civette'),  or  at  the  Grand-Hotel.  The  home-made  cigars 
usually  smoked  are  the  Bordelait  at  5  c.  each,  J^trangen  at  10  c,  Demi-Londr^s 
15  c,  Midianitot  at  20  c,  Rigalias  and  Camilias  at  25  c,  Londris  at  30  c, 
and  LondrU  extra  at  85  c.  There  are  also  special  brands  manufactured  for 
the  restaurants,  caf^s,  etc.  (25-50  c,  each).  Cigarettes  are  sold  in  packets  of 
twenty  at  50-80  e.  Oriental  cigarettes  are  to  be  had  at  Boul.  des  Capu- 
cines 12  and  Place  de  la  Bourse  15.  The  ordinary  smoking-tobacco  is 
of  two  qualities  (caporal  ordinaire,  caporal  tupirieur),  sold  in  packets  of 
40  grammes  at  50  and  80  c.    There  are  also  much  more  expensive  varieties. 

Passers-by  may  avail  themselves  of  the  light  burning  in  every  tobacco 
shop  withoat  making  any  purchase. 

CoNFiSETTBS  (comp.  p.  22):  Boissier,  Boul.  des  Capucines  7; 
Oouache,  Boul.  des  Italiens  18;  Siraudin  (L,  Marquis)^  Plv^^  ^'Si 
rOptfra  3  and  Boul.  des  Capucines  17;  Rcbattet,^u^  ^xsL^wsXiQ\^"^%- 
St-Honortf  12;  Bonnet,  Rue  Vivienne  31,  Plate  ^e\«.^Q^^^^\  ^^•'^'a- 
n0/,  Bne  daBac28;  Fuller  (American  confect\oiv^tfi,^vv^^^^^'^^^' 


42  11.  SHOPS.  P^Oim 

—  Preserved  Fruits  (fnUU  confUs)  are  sold  in  these  shop 
most  large  groceries.  Price  about  5  fr.  per  kilogramme  (^ 
Cyolbs.  CUment'Humber,  Rue  du  Quatre-Septembre  19 
same  street  29;  American  Cycles,  Rue  HaMvy  16;  Oladiai 
Montmartre  18;  Peugeot^  Avenue  de  la  Grande- Armtfe  22 
same  avenue  45.  Many  other  dealers,  including  some  of 
English  makers,  also  have  shops  in  the  Avenue  de  la  Grande 
Dblicacibs  (preserved  meats,  etc.;  comestibles):  ( 
Avenue  de  TOp^ra  18 ;  Potel  ^  Chabot^  Boul.  des  Italiens  25 
Vivienne  28;  F,  Potin,  Boul.  de  Stfbastopol  99-103,  Bon] 
herbes  45-47,  and  Faubourg-St-Antoine  99  (also  ^Engliih-i 
grocer');  Testoty  Rue  de  la  Chauss^e-d'Antin  15;  Faguai$, 
des  Champs-Ely s^es  42,  Winierborriy  same  avenue  73  (tl 

*  English- American'  grocers).  —  Salted  Provisions :  Maison 
bon  d'Tork  (Olida),  Rue  Drouot  11. 

DRESSMAKERS,  MiLLiNEBS,  etc.  The  most  fashionable  s 
to  be  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Op^ra :  Rue  de  la  P 
Taitbout,  Rue  Louis-le-Grand,  Rue  du  Quatre  Septembre, 
adjoining  Boulevards.  At  these  a  simple  walking-dress  is 
cost  not  less  than  400  fr.,  -while  an  evening-costume  may 
to  1500  fr.  Hats  and  bonnets  range  from  60  to  120  fr.  acc( 
style.  It  is  generally  possible  to  reduce  the  prices  by  a  li 
gaining.  The  Orands  Magasins  (p.  40)  have  lower  cha] 
employ  skilful  modistes;  while  ready-made  clothing  |can 
obtained  there,  as  well  as  in  the  shops  mentioned  under 

Enoratinos  (estampesj  gravures)  and  Photographs  : 

#  Cie.y  Boul.  des  Capucines  24;  *Braun^  Avenue  de  I'Op^rj 
Rue  Louis-le-Grand  18  (photographs  of  paintings ;  comp. 
E,  HauUcoeur ,  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra  35  (views  of  Paris) ;  i 
Boul.  des  Capucines  12,  at  the  Grand  H6tel,  and  Rue  de  Ri^ 

Fancy  Articles,  see  *  Articles  de  Voyage',  Toy  Shops,  : 
Leather;  also  Bazaars  (p.  40). 

Fans  (eventails):  Faueon,  Avenue  de  I'Opfira  38 ;  Kees,  1 
Capucines  9;  DuveUeroy^  Boul.  des  Capucines  35. 

Furniture  (artistic) :  Jansen,  Rue  Royale  6 ;  Viardotj  A^ 
rOp^ra  28;  Jdrac^  Boul.  Haussmann  19;  Levieil,  Rue  Taitl 
Dager,  Rue  Vivienne  47.  —  English  furniture :  Maple ,  S< 
rOp^ra  and  Rue  Boudreau. 

Furriers:  Bevillon  Frhres ,  Rue  de  Rivoli  77-81 ;  Co 
Russe,  Rue  de  la  Chaussle-d'Antin26 ;  Orunwaldt^  Rue  de  li 
Rufin ,  Avenue  de  TOpera  30 ;  A  la  Ville  de  Bombay ,  B 
Capucines  35 ;  Bougenaux-Lolley,  Rue  St.  Honor^  249. 

Glass  (porcelain,  etc.):  Boutigny,  Passage  des  Prince 

des  Italiens)  and  Peristyle  Montpensier,  to  the  W.  of  the 

d'Orltfans  (Palais-Royal) ;  A  la  Paix,  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra  34 

dfs  errands Fabricanta^  same  avenue  12  •,  Grand  Dlp6t^  Rue  D 

—  Venetian  6'/flW  (Salviati),  Avenue  AeVOi^€i«L\fe.  —  ki 


11.  SHOPS.  4 

(fayencej :  Deck,  Rue  HaWvy  10.  —  Golfe  Juan  Pottery^  Ayenne  t 
rOptfra  36.  —  Earthenware :  Delaherche,  Rue  Hal^vy  1 ;  Produi 
Cframiques  MuUer,  Rue  HaMvy  3. 

Glotbbs  (glove,  U  gant;  kid  glove,  gant  de  chevreau  or  de  pear 
de  chevreaUf  or  de  peau) :  A  la  Petite  JeannettCj  Boul.  des  Itallens  c 
(English  ties,  hosiery,  etc.);  Au  Camaval  de  VenUe,  Boul.  de 
la  Madeleine  3  (English  goods) ;  Jourdain  et  Brown^  Rue  Hal^yy  16 ; 
Ftirritk^  Avenne  de  TOp^ra  45 ;  Persin^  Passage  Jouffroy  24-26 ;  Au 
Boi  d^Tvetot,  Pass.  Jouffroy  29-31 ;  Orands  Magasins  (p.  40). 

Goldsmiths  and  Jbwbllebs:  very  numerous  and  tempting, 
especially  in  the  Rue  de  la  Paix,  the  Rue  Royale,  and  the  Avenue 
de  rOp^ra.  All  genuine  gold  and  silver  articles  hear  the  stamp  of 
the  Mint. 

'  Haibdbessebs  in  almost  every  street,  frequently  in  the  entresol. 

—  *Taille  de  cheveux' 30-50  c,  *coup  de  fer*  (curling)  25-50  c. , 

^  *pour  faire  la  barhe'  20-30  c. ,  ^friction'  (shampoo)  50  c.  —  ^Coiffeurs' 

^  for  ladies:  Augustej  Rue  de  la  Paix  t;  Dubois,  Rue  Daunou  20; 

s  Atttof d,  Rue  de  Oastiglione  6  r2-6  fr.) ;  Gabriel,  Rue  St.  Honors  229 ; 

and  Cotreau,  Rue  Roy  ale  18  (courtyard). 

^  Hattbbs  (chapeliera):  Delion,  Boulevard  des  Gapucines  24  and 

Passage  Jouffroy  21-25 ;  A.  Berteily  Rue  du  Quatre-Septembre  10, 

^  Rue  de  Richelieu  79,  and  Boulevard  St.  Germain  134;  Gibus  (in- 

^  ventor  of  the  folding  hat),  Rue  du  Quatre-Septembre  11;  Pinaud 

^  Amouf,  Rue  de  Richelieu  89;  Reni  Pineau,  Rue  de  Richelieu  94. 
HosiBBS  AND  Shibtmakbbs.  Voucet,  Rue  de  la  Paix  21 ;  Roddy 
(also  tailor),  Boul.  des  Italiens  2;  Chemiserie  du  Palais  Royal,  Rue 
St.  Honors  167  (shirt  8-13 V2  ^r.);  Chemiserie  Spiciale,  Boul.  de 
Stfbastopol  102  (0V2-I4V2  ^0;  ^ai^on  des  100,000  Chemises,  Rue 
Lafayette  69  and  Rue  Madame  1;  the  Grands  Magasins  (p.  40),  etc. 
Leather  Wajlbs  (maroquinerie) :  Maquet,  Avenue  de  rOp^ral9; 
Brentano,  same  avenue  37.   See  also  *  Articles  de  Voyage'. 

BiAFs.  J5afrif«  (Andriveau-GoDJon),  RueduBac4;  Baudoin, 
military  bookseller.  Rue  Dauphine  30  (1st  floor);  Delorme,  Rue 
St.  Lazare  80;  Challamel,  Rue  Jacob  17  (charts). 

Maps  of  the  Environs  of  Paris.  The  Army  Ordnance  Department  has 
published  a  coloured  map  on  a  scale  of  1:20,000  (86  sheets  at  86  e.  each) 
and  another  uncoloured,  1 :  40,000  (9  sheets  at  40  c).  Barrire  has  issued 
maps  of  theW.  and  N.W.  districts  (1:6000)  for  2  fr.  (uncoloured),  of  the 
department  of  the  Seine  fl :  12,000)  in  12  sheets  at  2  fr.,  and  of  the  en- 
virons of  Paris  (1 :  60,000)  in  4  or  9  sheets  in  colours  at  IVs  or  V«  fr-  — 
Cyclist  maps :  Neal,  Rue  de  Bivoli  248  (Plan-V^lo  series). 

Mvsio:  Heugel(Au  Minestrel),  RueYivienne  2his;  Noel,  Passage 
des  Panoramas  22 ;  Chovudens,  Boul.  des  Gapucines  30 ;  Quinzard, 
Rue  des  Gapucines  24 ;  Durand,  Place  de  la  Madeleine  4 ;  Hamelle, 
Boul.  Malesherbes  22 ;  Grus,  Place  St.  Augustin. 

Musical  Instbumbnts.  Pianos:  *E^aTd,R\ie^^\JLl&.%^V\.^S*^^•<••^<^^ 
Rue  Rochechouart  22;  Herz,  Rue  St.  liazwe  *l^-,   Qwotau^^^^^ 
Blanche  32-34,  Boul  St.  Germain  230,  etc.-,  Botd,  ^o\j\.^^^^^^^- 


44  11.  SHOPS. 

'  lilere  141)is;  Kays,  Boul.  de  la  Madeleine  17.  —  Oigans:  Oovoitt^ 
Coll^  Avenue  du  Maine  15;  Merklin^  Rue  DeUmbre  22.  -»  H»- 
moniums  :  Alexandre,  Rue  Lafayette  81. 

Opticians  (spectacles,  des  lunettes;  opera-glasi,  d€»  fuauXim; 
eye-glasses,  pince-nez):  Chevalier^  Galerie  de  Ytloii  ISofPabil- 
Royal);  Fischer,  Avenue  de  TOp^ra  19;  J7ase6fOueg,  Otmi,  Rnede 
laPaix,  Nos.  23,  24;  Armand,  Franck-ValSryy  BouL  det  Otpt- 
cines  12,  25 ;  Comptoir  Central  d'Optique,  Hue  YivUaane  26,  mod»- 
rate ;  Derogy,  Quai  de  TUorloge  33;  Iseli,  Boul.  St.  Qennain  148; 
MeyrowitZj  Rue  Scribe  3  (American  eye-glasses). 

Pebfumeby  :  Violet,  Boul.  des  Italiens  29 ;  Pknaud^  Plaoe  Yea- 
dome  18  and  Avenue  de  TOp^ra  7;  Piver^  Boal.  de  Strmsbovig  10; 
Oelle  Frhrea,  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra  6 ;  Lubm,  RaeRoyalelli  Gutt- 
lain,  Rue  de  la  Paix  15;  Agnel,  Avenue  de  I'Optfn  16;  JMimiMt, 
Boul.  des  Gapucines  9 ;  Botot ,  Rue  de  la  Paix  17 ,  and  Rue  St 
Honors  229 ;  Oriza  (Legrand),  Place  de  la  Madeleine  11 ;  JbiiM^awH 
Rue  du  Faubourg-St-Honor6  19;  Dr,  Pierre  (dentifrlees),  Plmeede 
rOp^ra  8;  Bully  (vinaigre  de  toilette).  Rue  Montoigaeil  67. 

Photoobaphebs  :  Braun,  Rue  Louis-le-6rand  18;  JVadar,  Bu 
d'Anjou  51 ;  LiSbert ,  Rue  de  Londres  6  (25-500  ft,  per  doi.); 
Walery^  same  street,  9 ;  Pirou,  Rue  Royale  23  and  Bool.  St.  Ger- 
main 5;  Benque,  Rue  Royale  5;  Boyer,  Boul.  det  Oapnelnes  86; 
Rozi,  Boul.  des  Italiens  39 ;  Tourtin^  Ladrey-Diiderij  BouL  del 
Italiens,  Nos.  8,  6 ;  Reutlinger,  Ogereau,  Boul.  Montmurtre,  Nos.  21, 
18;  Chalot,  Rue  Vivienne  18;  PUrre- Petit,  Place  Cadet  8.  — 
Photographic  Apparatus:  Photo-Hall,  Rue  Scribe  5;  Photo-Opin, 
Boul.  des  Oapucines  8;  L,  Reusse,  Rue  des  Pyramideg  21;  S,  Ob- 
rette,  Rue  Lafdtte  27;  Agence  Centrale  de  Photographic,  Bae  da 
Ohateaudun  2;  Office  Central  de  Photographic,  Rue  de  Rennea  47. 
For  sellers  of  photographs,  see  Engravings. 

PicTUBES  AND  ScuLPTUBES.  At  the  gallerics  of  Dwrcmd^Ruel  and 
Oeorges  Petit  (p.  38);  at  OoupiVa  (see  above,  under  EngxavlngB) ; 
Goldscheider  (sculptures) ,  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra  28;  Bernhekn  (jiie- 
tures) ,  A  v.  de  POp^ra  36  and  Rue  Laffltte  8.  —  Ancient  Pietnxei 
at  Ch.  Sedelmeyer's,  Rue  de  la  Rochefoucauld  6. 

Tailobs.  The  general  remarks  under  Dressmakers  (p.  42)  nuy 
be  repeated  here.  There  are  several  good  tailors  in  the  Bonleraid 
des  Italiens ,  Avenue  de  lOpera ,  Rue  Auber ,  etc.  The followlnf 
are  said  to  be  average  prices  in  the  Grands  Boulevards:  suit  200- 
400  fr.,  overcoat  150.-200,  dress -coat  150-260,  tronsers  50-60, 
waistcoat  45,  jacket  110-160  fr.  —  Ready-made  Olothino:  Alt 
Belle  Jardinilre,  Rue  du  Pont-Neuf  2,  a  large  establishment  wbeie 
garments  of  all  kinds  may  be  obtained;  Coutard^  Bonl.  Moat- 
martre4;  Old  England,  Boul.  des  Capucines  12;  MaiaondetOpim^ 
Avenue  de  TOp^ra  18  and  20;  A  Riaumur,  corner  of  the  Rnai 
Reaumur  and  St.  Denis ;  A  la  Grande  Fabrique^^uft  dATnzbigo  60; 
A  St.  Joseph,  Rue  Montmartie  iib-ii^. 


Information,  12.  BOOKSELLERS.  45 

Tot  Shops  :  Au  Nain  Bleu,  Boul.  deg  Oapucines  27 ;  Magasin 
des  EnfanU ,  Passage  de  TOp^ra ;  Au  ParadU  des  Enfants^  Rue  de 
Bivoli  156  and  Rae  du  Louvre  1 ;  and,  about  the  New  Year,  in  the 
Orandd  Magasins  and  BazcLora. 

Watchmakbbs  :  Le^y  et  Cie,,  Boul.  de  la  Madeleine  7  (chrono- 
meters) ;  Bodanet,  Rue  Yivienne  36 ;  BrSguet,  Rue  de  la  Paix  12 ; 
Detouehe,  Boul.  Poissonifere  18;  Au  Nlgre,  Boul.  St.  Denis  19  (also 
jewellery);  Oamier^  Boul.  Haussmann  17.  —  Lepaute  (clocks), 
Rue  Hal^yy  6 ;  Planchon,  Rue  de  la  Chauss^e-d' Antin  5. 

Those  who  desire  to  transmit  purchases  direct  to  their  destin- 
ation should  procure  the  services  of  a  goods-agent  (p.  28). 

Flower  Markets.  Quai  aux  Fleurt  (PI.  R,  23 ;  F),  on  Wed.  and  Sat. 
(a  bird-market  on  Son.)*,  Place  de  la  Ripublique  (PI.  B,  27;  ///),  on  Hon. 
and  Thurs.;  Fletee  de  la  Madeleine  (PI.  B,  18;  //),  on  Taes.  and  Frid.; 
Flaee  St.  Sulpiee  (Pi.  B,  16-19;  /F),  on  Men.  and  Thurs.;  etc.  There  are 
beautifol  flower-shops  in  the  boulevards  and  elsewhere ;  e.g.  Ldbrouue,  Bool, 
dea  Capueinesl2}  Laehaume^  Bae  Boyale  10;  Bories^  AugtuUn^  Boul.  St.  Ger- 
main 108,  77. 

Oommisaionnaizeet  or  messengers,  are  to  be  found  at  the  corners  of 
gome  of  the  chief  streets  (no  tariff;  1-2  fr.  according  to  distance).  Many 
of  them  are  also  Shoeblack*  (20  c). 

12.    Booksellers.   Beading  Booms.   Libraries.   Newspapers. 

Booksellers.  Qalignani^s  Library,  Rue  de  Rivoli  224,  with  library 
(see  p.  46) ;  Ntal^  Rue  de  Rivoli  248,  with  library  and  reading-room 
(see  p.  46);  Breniano,  Avenue  de  TOp^ra  37 ;  these  three  are  English 
and  American  booksellers. 

Ollendorff,  Rue  de  la  Chauss^e-d'Antin  50  (general  agent  for 
Baedeker's  Handbooks).  Flammariont,  Boul.  des  Italiens  40,  Boul. 
St.  Martin  3,  Galeries  de  POd^on,  etc. ;  Amaud,  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra 
26 ;  Sevin,  Boul.  des  Italiens  8 ;  Dentu,  Avenue  de  I'Opto  36bis 
and  Boul.  de  S^astopol  73.  —  Haar  ^  Sieinert,  Rue  Jacob  21,  Le 
Soudier,  Boul.  St.  Germain  174,  Vieweg,  Rue  de  Richelieu  67,  and 
Ch,  Eitel,  Rue  de  Richelieu  18,  for  German  books ;  Boyveau,  Rue 
de  la  Banque  22,  English  and  Crerman  books.  —  Rare  books :  Mar- 
gand,  Passage  des  Panoramas  55 ;  Rouquette,  Passage  Ghoiseul  69 ; 
Conquet,  Rue  Drouot  5.  The  famous  house  of  Hachette  ^  Cie,  is  at 
79  Boul.  St.  Germain.  —  The  Second-Hand  Book  Stalls  on  the  quays 
on  both  banks,  E.  of  the  Pont  Royal,  are  interesting.  The  shops  in 
the  Galeries  de  I'Od^on  and  the  numerous  bookshops  near  the  Sor- 
bonne  may  also  be  mentioned. 

Beading  Beoms.  Neal,  Rue  de  Rivoli  248  (adm.  25  c,  per  week 
1  fr.),  well  supplied  with  English  newspapers  and  English  and 
American  magazines.  —  Reading  Room  of  the  New  York  Herald j 
Avenue  de  I'Gp^ra  49  (adm.  gratis),  well  supplied  with  American, 
English,  and  French  newspapers.  Both  of  these  are  frequeivt^^ \s^ 
ladies.  —  Salon  LittSraire,  in  the  Passage  de  VOp^i«.  ^ .  «v^^  ^1  "Ct^^ 
Bonl.  des  Italiens),  Oalerie  du  BaromHre  11  aivd.  1^,  ^t^wOb.,  Q^^^- 
mAD,  BDdEDglish  newspapers;  adm.  30  c.  —  Salons  de  L.ec\AVc«.^^ 


46  12.  NEWSPAPERS.  J>«lteite«ry 

the  same  kind  at  the  Hhrairie  de  Paris,  Bonl.  Montnuurtte  t20.  — 
These  reading-rooms  are  conTenient  places  for  letter-writing. 

Circulating  LibrarieB.  BibUoth^que  Cardlnaly  Place  St  Snlpiee, 
to  the  right  of  the  chnrch ;  Neal,  Rue  de  Riyoli  248  (from  1  fr.  pet 
month) ;  Oalignani,  Rue  de  Rivoli  224  (from  2  f^.  per  mont&); 
Bibliothique  Unicerselle,  Rue  Tronchet  4 ;  La  Leetwre  Univen^OU^ 
Rue  des  Moulins  6  (2  fr.  per  month ,  10  fr.  per  annum) ;  LibroMi 
Internationale  J  Rue  Ghauveau-Lagarde  14;  Delorme,  Rue  St.  l*' 
zare  80 ;  Bibliothhque  Oilier,  Rue  Bonaparte  76. 

Newspapers.  The  oldest  Parisian  newspaper  is  the  'Qazette  de 
France',  which  was  founded  in  1631  by  Renaudot  (p.  ^224).  No  liBwat 
than  150  new  journals  appeared  in  1789,  140  in  1790,  and  86 
in  1791 ,  but  most  of  these  were  suppressed  at  Tarious  times  by 
government,  Napoleon  finally  leaving  only  thirteen  in  exlstanee. 
On  the  restoration  of  the  monarchy  about  150  newspapers  and  period- 
icals were  published,  but  only  eight  of  these  concerned  fhemselTes 
with  political  matters.  Since  then  the  number  has  been  constantly 
on  the  increase ,  and  now  amounts  to  about  2600.  The  poUtioal 
papers  number  over  150,  and  are  sold  in  the  streets  or  at  the 
*kiosques'  in  the  Boulevards  (p.  74).  The  larger  papers  cost  10 
or  15  c,  the  smaller  5  c. 

Morning  Papers.  Republican:  Le  Petit  Journal  (largeat  eireiilalioB); 
LeMatin^  La  Libre  Parole  (antisemitlc) ;  L"  Intrantigeant  (Henri  SoebafiDil)} 
Le  Jow'nal,  LEcho  de  Pari*  (these  two  more  literary  than  politl«a])) 
L' Eclair;  Le  Petit  Parisien;  La  Lanteme;  Le  Radical;  Le  Rqppei;  L'Xvim 
ment;  Le  Siicle;  La  Petite  Ripublique;  UAurore;  La  Fronde.  —  OoBMr- 
vative:  Le  Oaulois ,  Le  Soleil  (these  two  Orleanist);  L*Aiti«titi  (Boaa* 
partist);  L'Onivere,  La  Croix  (both  clerical);  Le  Moniteur  VkiMrati,  Hm 
Figaro,  the  most  widely  circulated  of  the  larger  papers  (15  e.),  may  alio 
be  called  Conservative,  but  is  rather  a  witty  Uterary  sheet  than  a  imIom 
political  journal.  —  Unclassified :  Le  Journal  Offidel. 

Evening  Papers.  Republican:  Le  Journal  dee  Dibatt  (10  e.)  one  of  fke 
best  Parisian  papers);  Le  Temps  (10  c.  ^  well  edited  and  inflaentla])|  LmMt- 
publique  Frangcnee;  Le  Soir  (15  c);  La  Liberti;  La  Patrie;  Le  PetU  Bkm; 
La  Pretse.  —  Conservative:  La  Gazette  de  France  (royalist). 

Reviews  and  Periodicals:  La  Revue  dee  Deux  Mondee  (the  oldeiQ; 
Nouvelle  Revue  (Republican)-,  Le  Correspondant  (Conservative);  Bemu  Brt- 
iannique;  Revue  Jlhutrie  (artistic);  Revue  de*  Revue*;  Revue  Oimink  4ll 
Science*;  Revue  Sdentifique;  La  Nature;  Revue  Bleue,  Revue  Blemekt  (bott 
literary);  Revue  Larouese  (general);  Revue  de  Pari*. 

Illustrated  Journals:  U Illustration;  VUnivera  Illu*tri;  X«  JtwnuX 
Amusant;  Le  Charivari;  La  Vie  Parisienne;  Le  Tour  du  Monde.  MMt  of 
these  are  issued  weekly. 

English,  German,  and  other  foreign  journals  are  sold  In  Ae 
kiosques  near  the  Grand-Hotel  and  in  some  others  on  the  principal 
boulevards.  —  The  Daily  Messenger  (20  c),  formerly  'Qallgnanl^ 
Messenger',  an  English  paper  published  in  Paris  (office,  Roe 
St.  Honors  167),  has  been  in  existence  for  over  80  years.  It  eon- 
tains  an  excellent  summary  of  political  and  commercial  news,  ths 
latest  information  from  England,  the  United  States,  and  the  wholf 
0/'  the  Continent f  and  a  Ust  of  the  piiuci^ftX  «v^\a  vcA  i 


Informtaion,  13.  BATHS.  47 

of  Paris.  The  English  and  American  places  of  worship  (p.  49)  are 
enumerated  every  Saturday.  —  The  European  edition  of  the  New 
York  Herald  fofflce,  Avenue  de  TOp^ra  49)  is  a  daily  paper  of  a 
similar  kind  (price  15  c,  Sun.  25  c).  —  The  American  Register 
(office,  Boul.  Haussmann  391,  with  lists  of  American  travellers  in 
Europe  and  general  news  (30  o.),  and  the  English  ^'  American  Ga- 
zette (20  c.)  are  published  every  Saturday. 


Strangers  desiring  to  learn  French  or  other  languages  will  find  ample 
facilities  at  the  BtrUtz  School  of  Langvaget ,  Avenue  de  I'Op^ra  7,  and  at 
the  Imtitvt  JRtfdy,  Rue  Caumartln  4,  where  a  course  of  three  lessons  per 
week  costs  10-15  fr.  a  month.  Private  lessons  are  also  given.  The  Inttitut 
PolyglottOy  Rue  de  la  Grange-Bateli&re  16,  is  a  similar  establishment.  The 
addresses  of  private  teachers  may  be  obtained  from  Oalignani  and  the  other 
booksellers.  —  The  Franco-EngUth  Guild,  Rue  de  la  Sorbonne  6,  for  women, 
supplies  information  regarding  the  conditions  of  study  at  the  Sorbonne. 
the  art-schools,  and  studios;  the  examinations  held  hy  the  University  of 
Paris;  special  branches  of  study;  etc.  The  annual  inscription  fee,  including 
use  of  dining-room  and  reading-room ,  is  10  fr. ;  course  of  ten  lessons  in 
French  90  fr.;  full  course  of  ten  months  226  fr.  —  Girls  who  wish  to  com- 
bine the  comforts  of  «n  American  home  with  excellent  opportunities  for 
the  study  of  French,  historv,  and  art  will  find  these  at  the  *8tudy  Home^ 
of  Mr».  Edward  FerrU,  97  Boulevard  Arago. 

18.  Baths.   Phyuoians.  Kaisoni  de  Ban(6. 

BathB.  Wa&x  Baths  in  the  floating  establishments  on  the  Seine, 
and  in  many  others  in  different  parts  of  the  town.  Charges:  *Bain 
complete  li/2-2fr. ;  'bain  ordinaire'  ^l<£-i  tz.^  towels  extra.  De  la 
Samantaine,  below  the  Pont-Neuf,  right  bank  (PI.  R,  20;  lit); 
de  Diane^  Rue  Yolney  5 ;  Vivienne,  Rue  Yivienne  15 ;  8te,  Anne^ 
Rue  Ste.  Aiine  63  and  Passage  Choiseul  58 ;  de  la  Madeleiney  Rue 
du Faubourg-St-Honor^  30,  Oit^  du Retire  (80  c.-3  fr.) ;  de  JouvencCy 
Boul.  Poissonnidre  30  and  Rue  du  Faubourg-Montmartre  A-,  de  la 
ChauMSe-d'Antin,  Rue  de  la  Chauss^e-d'Antln  46 ;  Ventadour,  Rue 
des  Petits-Champs  48,  near  the  Avenue  de  TOp^ra;  ChafUereine^ 
Rue  de  la  Victoire  46  and  Roe  de  Ghateaudun  39 ;  du  Passage  de 
VOpira,  Passage  de  I'Op^ra  (Boul.  des  Italians  10);  de  la  Bourse^ 
Rue  St.  Marc  16 ;  Piscine  Montmartre,  Rue  Montmartre  163 ;  8t.  De- 
ni$y  Rue  du  Faubourg-St-Denis  60  (with  swimming-bath) ;  St.  Oer- 
main-dei-Pris,  Boul.  St.  Germain  180;  Racine ,  Rue  Racine  6;  du 
Colisie^  Rue  du  Golisee  14  (Champs-Elys^es). 

TuBKiBH,  Yapovb,  and  other  baths:  Le  Hammam,  Rue  des 
Mathurins  18,  corner  of  the  Rue  Auber  (entrance  for  ladies,  Boul. 
Haussmann  47),  very  handsomely  fitted  up  (Turkish  bath  5fr.); 
Balneum^  Rue  Cadet  16^18,  of  the  same  category  (2  fr.) ;  Hammam 
Monge,  Rue  Cardinal-Lemoine  63 ,   on  the  left  bank  (bath  IV2- 
2Y2  fr.).  —  Piscine  Rochechouart,  Rue  de  Rochechouart  65  (1^  (v^'^-S 
reserved  for  ladies  on  Frid.).  —  Bains  GueTbois ,  ^u^  ^m  "^^x^^^v 
TAbb^  7.  —  Baim  de  Fumigations,  Rue  de  Dunket^vvxe  ^^,  —  Baviv* 
i'Air  Comprtm/ (compressed'&ii  baths),  Rue  des  ^Ta.m\^e^ NTl . 


48  13.  PHYSICIANS.  f^UmliMwy 

Gold  Baths  in  the  Seine,  open  fiom  May  Ist  to  Sept.  30th: 
*Qrandt  Ecole  de  Natation,  Quai  d'Orsay,  near  the  Pont  de  la 
Concorde  (PI.  B,  14,  15;  li);  Bains  duPont-Boyal  (entered  Cram 
the  Quai  Voltaire) ;  Henri  J  V.  (entrance  near  the  statne  on  the  Pont- 
Neuf) ;  Ouamier,  Quai  Yoltaire,  Bains  de  Fleurs,  Quai  dn  Lonne, 
to  the  right  of  the  Pont-Neuf,  both  for  ladies  also. 

The  usual  charges  at  these  cold  baths  are:  admission  20-60,  swSm- 
ming-drawers  and  towel  25,  fee  to  the  ^gargon^  10  c.  —  It  should  be  Ob- 
served that  one  half  of  each  bath  is  generally  very  shallow,  being  inteAded 
for  non-swimmers,  while  the  other  half  is  often  not  more  than  6-9  fL  la 
depth.     Divers  should  therefore  use  great  caution. 

Physicians.  Should  the  traveller  require  medical  adyice  dnxijig 
his  stay  in  Paris,  he  should  obtain  from  his  landlord  the  name  of 
one  of  the  most  eminent  practitioners  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ui 
hotel  or  lodgings.  Information  may  also  be  obtained  at  the  EngUsh 
and  other  chemists*  shops  (p.  41),  or  at  OalignanVs  (p.  46).  As 
changes  of  address  are  not  infrequent,  the  *Bottin\  or  Dlreetoiy, 
may  also  be  consulted.  Usual  fee  from  10  to  20  fr.  per  yiait  or  con- 
sultation. The  following  British  and  American  physicians  may  be 
mentioned :  — 

British :  Dr,  Herbert,  Rue  Duphot  18 ;  Dr,  J.  Fawt-UilUr,  Bus 
Mirom^nil  8}  Dr.  Anderson,  Avenue  des  Champs  -  Elys^es  121; 
Dr.  Barrett,  Avenue  de  la  Grande- Arm^e  12 ;  Dr,  Cree,  Rae  Vol- 
ney  9  j  Dr.  Dupuy,  Avenue  Montaigne  53 ;  Dr.  B.  Faure-MiUer,  Bus 
Matignon  28 ;  Dr.  Oscar  Jennings,  Avenue  Mareeau  74 ;  Dr.  JIfcrvier, 
Avenue  Mac  Mahon  15 ;  Dr.  PeUereau,  Rue  du  Faubourg-St-Honoi6 
170;  Dr.Bivihre,  Rue  des  Mathurins25;  Dr.  Leonard  Robituomf 
Rue  d'Aguesseau  1 ;  Dr.  Warden,  Rue  Yolney  9. 

American:  Dr,  Austin,  RueCambon24;  Dr.  Beach j 'Rue'Wuit- 
ington  21 ;  Dr.  Boyland,  Rue  Vernet  15 ;  Dr,  Clarke,  Bne  Oamba- 
c^res2;  Dr.  Deering ,  Rue  Godot- de-Mauroi  3;  Dr.  H.  FUeHuff 
Avenue  Matignon  5;  Dr.  Good,  Avenue  du  Bois-de-Bonlogne  28; 
Dr.  Oros,  Rue  Clement  Marot  18 ;  Dr.  Hein,  Avenue  Yiotor  Hugo 
37;  Dr.  Magnin,  Boulevard  Malesherbes  41 ;  Dr.  Pike,  BaeFian^aii 
Premier  31 ;  Dr.  Turner,  Avenue  Victor  Hugo  152. 

Oculists:  Dr.  Loubrieu,  Rue  de  Savoie  12;  Dr.  Bail  (Amer.)| 
Rue  de  la  Palx  4 ;  Dr.  Meyer,  Boul.  Haussmann  73 ;  Dr,  de  Weefcir, 
Avenue  d*Antln  31. 

Dentists:  /.  B,  ^  W,  8.  Davenport,  Avenue  de  FOpte  80; 
J.  Evans,  Avenue  de  POptfra  19;  T.  W.  Evans,  Rue  de  la  Palx  16; 
Didsbury,  Rue  Meyerbeer  3 ;  Barrett,  Avenue  de  I'Optfra  17 ;  DaboUf 
Avenue  de  I'Op^ra  14 ;  Duchesne  ,  Rue  Lafayette  45 ;  DuffU,  Bne 
du  29  Juillet  6 ;  Bossi-Hartwick,  Rue  St.  Honors  186 ;  Ryan,  Bus 
Scribe  19 ;  Bykert,  Boul.  Haussmann  35 ;  Weber,  Rue  Duphot  25. 

Hospitals.  Haisons  de  Sant^.  In  case  of  a  serious  or  tediooi 
Wness,  the  patient  cannot  do  better  than  take  up  his  quaiteit  at  ons 
of  the  regular  sanatory  establishmenta.  TV^ie  w^  mMv^  ^^Uhmmh 
ducted  houses  of  the  kind  in  Paris  and  t\ie  eii^Vtow^,  ^Vsi.^'^i^tSdMla 


Information.        14.  DIVINE  SERVICE.  49 

are  received  at  from  150  to  1000  fr.  per  month,  including  board 
and  lodging,  medical  attendance,  baths,  etc.,  and  where  drawing- 
rooms,  billiard-tables,  gardens,  etc.,  as  well  as  good  tables  dli6te, 
are  provided  for  convalescents.  The  following  may  be  recommend- 
ed :  —  Maison  MunhipciU  de  SantS  (Dubois),  Rue  dn  Fanbourg- 
St -Denis  200  (terms  5-16  fr.  per  day,  everything  included); 
Maison,  des  Hoapitaliers  de  8t,  Jean-de-VieUy  Rne  Oudinot  19  (10- 
20  fr.);  Maison  des  Religieuses  Augustines  de  Meaux,  Rue  Oudi- 
not 16  (for  women;  300-500  fr.  per  month);  Eiablisaement  Hydro- 
thSrapique  d^Auteuily  Rue  Boileau  12;  Beni-Barde,  Rue  de  Miro- 
m^nil  63 ;  Maison  Rivet,  at  St.  Mand^,  Grande  Rue  106,  for  ladies. 
The  *Hbbtpobd  Bbitish  Hospital,  or  Hospice  Wallace  (PI.  B, 
8),  is  a  large  Gothic  edifice  in  the  Rue  de  Villiers,  at  Levallois- 
Perret ,  near  Neuilly ,  built  and  endowed  by  the  late  Sir  Richard 
Wallace.  It  has  accommodation  for  between  thirty  and  forty  patients, 
and  is  surrounded  by  a  large  garden.  —  Mention  may  also  be  made 
of  the  Protestant  Hospice  Suisse  (for  men ;  apply  at  the  Swiss  Em- 
bassy, Rue  Marignan  15)  and  the  Maison  des  Diaconesses  Pro- 
testantes  (for  ladies),  Rue  de  Reuilly  95.  —  Sick  Nurses  may  be  ob- 
tained at  the  *Hollond  Institution  for  English  Hospital-trained  Nurses, 
Rue  d' Amsterdam  25. 

14.    Divine  Service. 

English  Chnrehes.  For  the  latest  information,  visitors  are 
recommended  to  consult  the  Saturday  number  of  The  Daily  Mes- 
senger or  New  York  Herald  (p.  47),  or  the  Universal  Tourist  (every 
Thurs.,  15  c.).    At  present  the  hours  of  service  are  as  follows:  — 

Episcopal  Chuboh:  —  English  Church,  Rue  d^Aguesseau  5, 
Faubourg  St.  Honor^,  opposite  the  British  Embassy ;  services  at 
10.30,  3.30,  and  8.  —  Christ  Church,  Boul.  Bineau  49,  Neuilly ; 
services  at  10.30  and  3.  —  St,  George's  Church  (Anglican),  Rue 
Auguste-Vacquerie  7  (Avenue  d'l^na);  services  at  o.30, 10.30,  and 
8.  —  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  (Amer.),  Avenue  de  I'Alma  lObis; 
services  at  10.30  and  4.  —  St.  Luke's  American  Chapel,  Rue  de  la 
Grande  Ghaumi^re  5,  near  the  Boulevard  Montparnasse ;  services 
at  8.30,  10.30,  and  8. 

English  Gonobeoational  Sebvicbs,  Rue  Royale  23,  at  10.45 
a.in. ;  also  at  the  Taitbout  Chapel,  Rue  de  Provence  42  (behind  the 
Grand  Opera)  at  2.30  p.m. 

St.  Joseph's  Roman  Gatholio  Chuboh,  50  Avenue  Hoche, 
mass  on  Sundays  at  6,  7,  8,  9,  10,  and  11.30;  sermons  at  10  and 
3.15.    Gonfessions  heard  daily,  6-9. 

Amebioan  Ghubch,  Rue  de  Berri  21 ;  service  at  11  a..iQ.. 

Chuboh  op  Scotland,  Rue  Bayard  17,  C\iaixi^s-1^^^^^"^N  ^^^* 
^cesmtiO.SO  and  4,30. 

Wbslbyan  Mbthodist  Ghubch,  Rue Roqc^S^iTiek  ^y  ^o\^c^«^ 
Baxdbkks.  ParU.   Uth  Edit.  4 


50  14.  DIVINE  SEBYIOE.  ftgHmfcwwy 

Malesherbes;  services  at  11  and  8.  —  Service  also  at  3.30  pjn.  « 
San.  at  Rue  Demonrs  16,  Asni^res. 

Baptist  Chubcu  :  Rne  de  Lille  48 ;  French  serrloe  at  2  p.iB.; 
English  service  at  4  p.m. 

Nbav  Jebusalbm  Ghubch,  Rne  Thonin  12  (near  the  Pantheon); 
service  at  3  p.m. 

French  Protestant  ChnrchOB  (Temples  ProtetianU).  CUXiTiiniT: 
L'Oratoire,  Hue  St.  Honor^  146;  service  at  10.15.  —  8te,  JToric, 
Rne  St.  Antoine  216,  near  the  Bastille;  service  at  10.16,  inlrlntfli 
at  noon.  —  Eglise  de  VEtoiU,  Avenne  de  la  Grande-Ajrmtfe  64; 
services  at  10  and  4.  —  Temple  dea  BatignolUs ,  Boal.  dec  Bati|- 
nolles  46  (10.15  and  4).  —  Eglise  de  Pentemont^  Rnede  Gienelle  lA 
(10.15  and  4).  —  8t.  Esprit,  Rne  Roqntfpine  5  (10.15  and  1).  — 
temple  Milton,  Rue  Milton  (10.15).  —  Temple  de  Peuay,  Bne  Oor- 
tambertl9  (Trocad^ro;  10.15).—  Temple  deNeulUy^  BonleTud 
dlnkermann  8  (10.15). 

LuTHEBAN  (Confession  d'Augshowg) :  TempU  dea  Bittettei.  RiM 
des  Archives  24,  to  the  N.  of  the  H6tel  de  Yille;  seniee  at  10.16 
or  12.30  In  French,  at  2  in  German.  —  Temple  de  la  BidempUimi 
Rue  Ghauchat  16 ;  service  in  German  at  10.15,  in  French  at  12.  — 
Swedish  Church,  Boulevard  Ornano  19  (2.30). 

Fbbb  (Lihres) :  Eglise  Taitbout,  Rue  de  Provence  42:  serrlee  it 
10.15  a.m.  —  Eglise  du  Nord,  Rne  des  Petit8-H6tel«  17  fl0.16\ 

—  Temple  du  Luxembourg,  Rue  Madame  58  (10.30  a.m.  and  op.in.ji 

—  ChapeUe  du  Ctntre,  Rne  du  Temple  115  (10.80). 
Synagogues:   Rue  Notre  -  Dame  -  de  -  Nazareth  15;  Rne  de  U 

Victoire  44  (a  handsome  edifice);  Rue  des  Tonrnellea 21hU,  neai 
the  Place  des  Vosges ;  Rue  Buffault  28  (Portuguese). 

Missions.  For  those  interested  in  home  mission  work  the  IbUowtaf 
notes  may  be  of  service.  The  M^All  Mission  has  now  hetweea  80  aaa 
40  stations,  of  which  the  most  important  are  at  Bue  Boyale  96,  BeaL 
Bonne-Nonvelle  8,  and  Bne  St.  Antoine  104  \  meetings  every  week-day  at 
8  p.m.  Sunday  meetings  at  4.30  p.m.  at  Bue  Boyale  23  and  et  8.16  ml 
at  Bue  du  Faubourg-St- Antoine  142  and  Bue  Rationale  107.  The  olBeei 
of  the  mission  are  at  Bue  Godot-de-Mauroi  36 ;  chairman  and  diveelor,  Jbi. 
Chat.  E.  Greiff,  J).  f>.  —  Anglo-American  Young  Men's  ChriiHtm  AsftJ^Hmj 
Rue  Montmartre  160  (10  a.m.-lO.SOp.m.).  —  MUs  de  BromU  JTiatteii,  Km 
Clavel  3,  Belleville^  meetings  every  evening  and  on  Sun.  at  8JBOaju&0 
p.m.  Dispensary  on  Mon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Frid.,  at  10  a.m.  —  The  MrV 
Friendly  Society,  Bue  de  Provence  48,  affords  cheap  lodgings.  —  BetUii.  0»- 
tvaU  fie  la  Mission  Interieure :  agent.  Pastor  J.  P/ender^  Bue  Labnqrto^  ^ 

The  University  Unll  (sec,  Mme.  Chalamet),  Boulevard  St.  Michel  80,  ll 
H  home  and  club  for  students,  somewhat  on  the  lines  of  the  UalTCnV 
Sotllements  of  Oreat  Britain  and  America. 

15.  EmbasBies  and  ConsulateB.    Ministerial  Offtcei. 

Embassies  and  Consulates.  —  Gbrat  Bbitain  :  Amhtfuiitri 
£i.  Hon.  Sir  Edmund  Monzon,  Rue  du  Faubourg-St-Honoi€Si.r" 
Consul,  Albemarle  Percy  Inglis,  Esq.,  llxift  ^'K.%«Lt«»w^  ^  (jii'V^  j 
rice-consul,  G,  Q,  F,  Atlte^  Esq. 


Information,     16.    EMBASSIES  AND  CONSULATES.        51 

United  States  :  Ambassador,  Qeneral  Horace  Porter,  Rue  de 
Villejust  33.  —  Consnl  General,  Col,  J.  K,  Oowdy,  Avenue  de 
rOp^ra  36  (10-3);  vice-consul  general,  Edwatd  P.  MacLean^  Esq. 
The  foUowing  are  ihe  present  addresses  of  the  Ministers  and  Consuls 
of  other  countries,  but  changes  of  residence  sometimes  take  place.  —  The 
offices  are  generally  open  from  1  to  3. 

Austria^  Bue  de  Varenne  57.  —  Consulate:  Bue  Bosslni  8  (11-1). 

Belgium,  Bne  du  Colis^e  88  (1-3).  —  Consulate,  Bue  de  la  Pompe  88. 

Denmark^  Bue  Pierre-Charron  27  (1-3). 

Germany^  Rue  de  Lille  78  (10-12  and  2-3;  also  consulate). 

Grtecey  Bae  Clement-Marot  18  (2-4). 

Jia%  Bue  de  GreneUe  73  (12-4). 

Japan^  Avenue  Marceau  76. 

Mexico^  Hue  Daru  14.  \ 

Netherlands,  Villa  Michon  6,  Bue  Boissiere  (2-4). 

i2t««ta,  Bue  de  GreneUe  79  (2.4). 

Spain,  Boul.  de  Courcelles  34.  —  Offices  and  consulate,  Bue  Bizet  6. 

Sweden  and  Norway,  Ayenue  d^I^na  50  (1-8). 

Switzerland,  Bae  de  Marignan  16i>i8  (10-3). 

Turkey,  Bue  de  Presbourg  10  (2-4). 

Vatican,  Bue  Legendre  llbw  (10-12  and  5-7). 

Ministerial  Offices.  The  days  and  hours  of  admission  are  fre- 
quently changed.    Consult  the  *Bottin\ 

Affaires  Etranghrea,  Quai  d*Orsay  37  and  Rue  de  TUniversit^  130 
CPl.  R,  14;  11),  —  Agriculture,  Rue  de  Varenne  78  (PI.  R,  14;  IV), 
— -  CotorM9,  Pavilion  de  Flore,  TuUeries  (PL  R,  17;  //).  —  Com- 
merce,  Industrie,  Postes  et  Tiligraphes,  Rue  de  Varenne  80  (PI.  R, 
14;  IV)  and  Rue  de  Grenelle  99-105.  —  Finances,  at  the  Louvre, 
Rue  de  Rivoli  (PI.  R.  20;  II),  —  Guerre,  Boul.  St.  Germain  231 
and  Rue  St.  Dominique  10-14  (PI.  R.  17;  //,  /T^.  —  Instruction 
Publique,  Beaux- Arts,  et  CulUs,  Rue  de  Grenelle  110  (PI.  R,  17 ;  IV). 

—  Intirieur,  Place  Beauvau,  Rue  Cambac^r^s  7-lo,  and  Rue  des 
Saussaies  11  (PI.  R,  15;  II);  Rue  de  Grenelle  103,  and  Rue  de 
rUniversit^l76.—Jw5«cc,  Place  Vendome  11  andl3(Pl.R,  18;  77). 

—  Marine,  Rue  Royale  2  (PI.  R,  18;  77).  —  Travaux  Publics,  Rue  de 
Grenelle  244-248  (PI.  R,  17;  IV). 

Banks,  Banque  de  France,  Rue  de  la  Vrilliere  1  and  Rue  Croix 
des  Petits-Ohamps  39  (PI.  R,21 ;  77)  and  Place  Ventadour  (PI.  R,  21 ; 
annexe  for  bonds);  Caisse  des  Depdts  et  Consignations y  Rue  de 
Lille  66 ;  Caisse  d'Epargne,  Rue  Coq-H^ron  9 ;  Cridit  Fonder,  Rue 
des  Capucines  19 ;  Credit  Lyonnais,  Boulevard  des  Italians  19,  with 
30  branch-offices;  8oci€t6  Q6nirdU,  Rue  de  Provence  54  and  56, 
with  52  branches ;  Comptoir  National  d'Escompte,  Rue  Bergere  14, 
with  18  branches ;  Rothschild  Frlres,  Rue  Laffltte  21-25.  —  Eng- 
lish AND  American  Banks.  Munroe  ^  Co.,  Rue  Scribe  7 ;  Morgan, 
Garjes,  ^  Co,,  Boul.  Haussmann  31. 

MoMXT  Cbamobbs  (changeurs)  are  found  in  almost  every  part  of  Paris, 

Sarticularly  in  the  Palais-Royal,  near  the  Exchange,  the  Boulevards^  the 
Lue  Vivienne,  and  the  other  streets  frequented  by  strau^Qxa.  T\i.^\.^N.>iXv<iv 
Vridit  Lyonnaie  (see  above)  may  be  recommended. 

Stamps.  Keceipts  for  soms  above  10  fr.,  as  -weW  aa  va.T\OMa  c<i\svTs^«^- 
fS^  Aoeuments,  must  be  stamped.    Reeeipt-stampa  are  ao\^  ^.^^  ^^^  ^o^V 
iMee  and  by  many  tobacconists  (v    41) 


52  16.    PRELIMINARY  DRIVE.        IVettrnftMrf 

16.  Preliminary  Drive. 

After  a  preliminary  study  of  the  general  remarke  on  Paxia  it 
p.  XXVI,  the  best  way  of  obtaining  a  general  idea  of  the  appeennee 
of  Paris  is  to  take  a  drive  on  the  top  of  an  omnibns  or  tramway-^ax, 
or  in  an  open  cab,  through  the  principal  streets.  If  a  oab  ii  hired  it 
should  be  engaged  h  Vheure,  and  the  driver  desired  to  take  the  fal- 
lowing route. 

Gab  Drive.  The  Palais-Royal  (p.  60)  is  chosen  as  a  oonTeiiieiit 
starting-point.  Thence  we  drive  to  the  E.  through  the  Rue  de  Ri- 
voli  (p.  61),  passing  the  Tour  St.  Jacques  (p.  63)  and  the  H6tel 
de  Yille  (p.  65) ;  then  through  the  Rue  St.  Antoine,  ag  far  at  ike 
Place  de  la  Bastille  (p.  70)  and  the  Oolonne  de  Juillet  (p.  71), 
and  along  the  Grands  Boulevards  (pp.  72  et  seq.^  to  the  Madeleiiie 
(p.  81),  and  so  to  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  (p.  82).  We  next  ateend 
the  Champs-Elys^es  (p.  155)  to  the  Arc  de  TEtoilefjp.  158).  Then 
we  drive  to  the  Pont  de  I'Alma  (p.  165),  and  across  It  to  the 
Champ-de-Mars  (p.  282)  and  H6tel  des  Invalides  (p.  274);  Rue  de 
Grenelle,  Ste.  Clotilde  (p.  273),  Boulevard  St.  Germaixi  as  for  ai 
St.  Germain-des-Pr^sfp.  262),  Rue  Bonaparte  to  St.  Sulpice(p.253), 
and  on  to  the  Palais  du  Luxembourg  (p.  255) ;  the  Rue  de  M j- 
dicis,  at  the  end  of  which  is  the  Rue  Soufflot  leading  to  the  Pan- 
theon (p.240).  Thence  down  the  Boulevard  St.  Micheirp.228),  pauing 
the  Sorbonne  (p.  238)  and  H6tel  de  Cluny  (p.  229)  on  the  right, 
and  the  Fontaine  St.  Michel  (p.  228)  on  the  left;  next  traverse  the 
Boulevard  du  Palais  and  the  *Cit^,  where  Notre-Dame  (p.  224)  li 
observed  on  the  right,  at  some  distance,  and  the  Palais  de  Justice 
(p.  220)  on  the  left,  beyond  which  we  regain  the  right  hank  of  the 
Seine  at  the  Place  du  Chatelet  (p.  63).  Soon  after  we  again  reach 
the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  where  we  may  dismiss  the  cab  and  descend 
through  the  Boulevard  de  S^astopol  to  the  Grands  Boolerards. 

The  drive  will  occupy  about  3  hrs.  and  (according  to  the 
vehicle)  cost  7-10  fr..  Including  1  fr.  gratuity. 

Omnibus  Drive.  Gentlemen  may  explore  the  city  by  taking  a 
similar  exeursion  on  the  outside  of  an  omnibus  or  tramway-esr, 
which  will  occupy  nearly  double  the  time,  but  costs  abont  90  e. 
only.  The  route  appears  a  little  complicated ,  but  will  be  easily 
traced  with  the  aid  of  the  map  and  list  of  omnibus  lines  (see  Apipx.). 
Take  an  omnibus  from  the  Madeleine  (p.  81)  to  the  Bastille,  line 
E^  without  'correspondance' (15  c),  as  far  as  the  Place  de  laBastUIe 
(p.  70) ;  thence  take  a  tramway-oar  (coming  from  Yineennes ;  16  «.) 
to  the  n6tel  de  Ville  (p.  65),  and  hence  proceed  by  an  omnlbos  of 
line  C  (H6tel  de  Ville-Porte  Maillot)  as  far  as  the  Arc  de  Trlomphe 
de  TEtoile  (p.  158).  Here  alight,  and  return  by  the  same  line  to  the 
Place  de  la  Concorde  (p.  82),  without  correspond ance.  Walk  dew* 
to  the  quay  and  take  line  AP  to  tYie  Ywi\\i6o\i  (5.  240^,  withoil 
oorrespondance.    "Walk  thence  'b'y  t'he  "BowXevw^  ^t«  ^\fi^^  Nn  ^ 


Information     16.  PRELIMINARY  DRIVE.  53 

Jardin  dn  Luxeml)Oiirg  (p.  262)  and  the  Od^on  (p.  263).  Here  take 
the  Od^on  and  BatignoUes-Clichy  line  H  as  far  as  the  Palais-Royal 
(p.  60);  or,  better  still,  walk  (in  about  10  min.)  from  the  Od^on 
by  the  Rue  Racine  to  the  Boulevard  St.  Michel,  and  take  there  a 
tramway  of  the  Montrouge  and  Gare  de  TEst  line  to  the  Rue  de 
Bivoli  (p.  61)  or  on  to  the  Grands  Boulevards  (p.  72). 

Good  walkers  may,  of  course,  perform  parts  of  this  route  on  foot 
and  so  obtain  a  closer  view  of  the  objects  of  interest.  They  may, 
e.g. ,  walk  along  the  Grands  Boulevards  to  the  Place  de  la  R^pub- 
lique  (about  2  M.  from  the  Op^ra) ;  from  the  Hdtel  de  Yille  to  the 
Place  de  la  Concorde  (about  1 Y2  ^O*  ^^^^  ^^^  Luxembourg  to  the 
Rue  de  Rivoli  (nearly  1  M.),  or  to  the  Boulevards  (8/4  M.  farther). 

A  good  general  view  of  the  city  may  be  obtained  from  the  Towers 
of  Notre  Dame  (p.  227) ,  but  for  this  purpose  clear  weather  is 
necessary,  and  that  occurs  seldomer  than  might  be  supposed.  Eveii 
when  the  sun  is  shining,  the  middle  distance  is  frequently  in- 
distinct, a  fact  which  may  also  be  noticed  from  the  ground  in  the 
longer  streets.  The  best  views  are  obtained  when  the  weather  is 
clearing  just  after  a  shower ,  and  on  dry  windy  days ;  but  in  the 
latter  case  the  wind  is  often  disagreeable  on  the  top  of  the  towers. 
A  general  survey  from  another  point  of  view  is  afforded  by  a  visit 
to  the  Butte  Montmartre  (p.  204).  View  from  the  Arc  de  Triomphe, 
see  p.  159.  The  Eiffel  Tower  (p.  282)  is  too  far  from  the  centre  to 
afford  an  entirely  satisfactory  survey. 

Having  acquired  a  general  idea  of  the  external  appearance  and 
topography  of  the  city,  the  traveller  may  then  proceed  at  his  leisure 
to  explore  it  in  detail. 

17.    Distribution  of  Time. 

A  stay  of  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  in  Paris  may  suffice  to  con- 
vey to  the  visitor  a  superficial  idea  of  the  innumerable  attractions 
which  the  city  offers,  but  a  residence  of  several  months  would  be 
requisite  to  enable  him  satisfactorily  to  explore  its  vast  treasures  of 
art  and  industry.  The  following  plan  and  diary  will  aid  him  in 
regulating  his  movements  and  economising  his  time..  The  routes 
in  the  Handbook  are  arranged  as  far  as  possible  so  as  to  avoid 
loss  of  time  and  unnecessary  detours,  but  they  may  easily  be  re- 
solved into  new  combinations  or  made  in  a  reverse  direction ,  as 
the  convenience  or  pleasure  of  the  sight-seer  may  dictate.  Fine 
days  should  be  spent  in  the  parks,  gardens,  and  environs.  Excur- 
sions to  the  country  around  Paris,  in  particular,  should  not  be  post- 
poned to  the  end  of  one's  sojourn,  as  otherwise  the  setting  in  of 
bad  weather  may  preclude  a  visit  to  many  beautiful  spots  in  the 
neighbourhood.  Rainy  days  should  be  devoted  to  the  galleri^'^  «xA 
museums. 

The  table  at  p.  56  shows  when  the  ditlexftiit  coWev^^^^'p^;^  ^^ 
obJeot8  ofintereat  are  open  to  visitors,  "but  doesi^Qt  Vsi^xi.^^^i^^^^^'^^ 


54 


17.   DISTRIBUTION  OF  TIME.     AwUmiiMry 


that  aie  open  gratis  eTery  day,  whioh  must  be  looked  finr  in  the 
index.  Parks,  pnblic  gardens,  cemeteries,  and  the  like  are  alto 
omitted,  as  they  are  practically  always  open.  The  days  and  homt 
enumerated,  thongh  correct  at  present,  are  liable  to  alteration ;  ind 
the  traveller  is  therefore  referred  to  The  Daily  MesBcnger  (p.  47), 
to  the  principal  French  newspapers,  and  to  the  bills  posted  on  the 
advertising  pillars  in  the  boulevards.  The  mnseums  and  eoUeetioni 
are  apt  to  be  uncomfortably  crowded  on  Sundays  and  holidaye. 

The  numbers  in  the  following  tables  refer  to  the  Routes  of  the 
Handbook. 


Diary. 


Days        i       ObjecU  of  interest 


Days 


Objcets  of  intenst 


Every  day  ' 


Every  day 
except 
Monday 


Sunday 


1.  Palais  Boyal,  Bue  de 
Bivoli,  Bastille,  and 
Boulevards  (p.  59). 

3.  Champs -Ely  sdes  and 
Bois  de  Boulogne 
(p.  155). 

14.  St.  Cloud,  Sevres, 
Sleudon  (p.  291). 

15.  Vincennes  (p.  303). 

18.  St.  Denis,  Enghien, 
Montmorency,  Argen- 
teuil  (p.  333). 

19.  Valley  of  the  Oise 
fp.  342). 

20.  Sceaux,  Chevreuse, 
Montlh^ry ,    etc. 

(p.  349). 

21.  Fontainebleau(p.362). 


2.  Louvre  and  Tuileries 


16. 


(p.  86). 
The  Cit^  and  Soi^ 
bonne  quarter(p.219). 
Quarters  of  St.  Ger- 
main and  the  Luxem- 
bourg (p.  245). 
Versailles  (p.  307). 


1,2,3,9,10,14-16,18-21, 
as  above. 

4.  Trocad^ro,Passy,  and 
AuteuilCp.  164). 

6.  Halles  Centrales, Arts 
et  Metiers,  P^re-La- 
chaise  (p.  172). 

8.  Quartiers  du  Tem- 
ple   and  'du   Marala^y 


Sunday  < 


Monday 


Tuesday 


Wednesday 


but  not  the  Gobdbi 
(p.  W). 
13.  InvalidesandCbaai 
de  Man  (p,  TKHi. 

17.  St.  Ckrmaiii-efr-Lsii 
(p.  82?). 

22.  GhantUl/  and  Uifr 
viroas  (p.  868). 

l,8.1itlft,18-3i,asaba«« 

7.  LftVIIlAtlaaadMeii' 

martie  (p.  90Q). 

i.  %  8.  5.  9,  10,  ii, 
14-21,  as  above. 

6.  QaartlartddUBoa- 
se,  da  la  Chaaisli- 
d^Antla,  and  de  rS» 
rope  (p.  187). 

18.  Outly&ig  quaitvi 
tha  8. 


1,2,3,9,  iO»  1146,  i8«| 


2,3,9, 
as  ab( 


11.  As  abova,  asMft  i 


natural 
leiles  (p.  2WI, 


Thursday  |    *'  ^iovef'  *»'''**1 


f         (p.  210). 
ii.  J« 


ardin    des    Plautes.,\\ 


SaXwT^a.! 


^  11.  Jardim    dai  F 


InformaUon.     17.  DISTRIBUTION  OF  TIME. 
Tiiit  of  Three  Weeki. 


55 


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i,a 

11,13 

Note.  Si.  Denis  (18)  might  be  visited  on  the  morning  of  the  day  spent 
at  St.  Cloud  (14).  St.  Oermain-en-Laye  (17),  Fontainebleau  (21),  and  Chan- 
Hlly  (22)  each  require  an  additional  day. 

Visit  of  a  Week. 


& 


m 


I 


TTiuri-/  —  I  — 
day    lO,8jT,e 


9,3 
941 


53 


*y   ii±a 

r  {ny2  7,6l*''/  ,^  -,«,-.- 


S3  ;5,8 


1644 
1644 


1041 
7,6 

9,11 

0,11 


1042 


1,4    23  ■  ^41 

1644 


Friday  ^B  ^^^feyo^Vi\  ^,VV WA       \ 


56 


17.  DISTRIBUTION  OF  TIME.       Preiknifu^ 


I! Sun.  and'  ^ 

■  holidays  I   Monday 


Archive*  Nationaki  (p.  210) 

Art*  Jc    Metier*  ^    Conservatoire    de* 

(p.  175)  

Beaux- Art*,  Ecole  de*  (p.  248)    .   .    . 
JiibliotMque  Nationale,  Exhib.  (p.  I')?) 

Bourte  (p.  193) 

Chambre  de*  Dijmti*  (p.  272)    .... 
ChanHUy,  Chdteau  de  (p.  370)    .   .    . 


ForUainebleau^  Faiai*  (p.  362) .... 
Gobelin*,  Man^f.  de*  (p.  263).  .  .  . 
H6UI  de  Ville  (taloon*;  p.  65).  .  .  . 
Jmprimerie  Nationale  (p.  213)    .    .   . 

Jnvalide*,  S6tel  de*  (p.  274) 

Jardin  de*  Plante*,  Minagerie  (p.  261) 

,  Con*ervatorie*  (p.  266)  .... 

,  Xat.  Ei*t.  Collection*  (p.  266) 

Luxembourg,  Palai*  du  (p.  255) .   .   . 

— ,  Mu*6e  du  (p.  256) 

Monnaie,  Mus4e  d:  Studio  (p.  247).  . 
Mu*4e  Camavalet  (p.  218) 

—  Cernwchi  (p.  199) 

—  d^Artillerie  et   de  VArmee    (Inva- 
lides^  p.  275) 

—  de  Cluny  (p.  230) 

—  de  QaUiira  (p.  166) 

—  de  Minir.  et  Giolog.  (p.  284)    .    . 

—  du  Comero.  de  Mu*iqtte  (p.  76).   . 

—  d'Ethnographie(TTOcaAi'TO',T^.nO) 

—  du  Oarde-AIeuble  (p.  281)  .... 

—  du  Louvre,  Painting*  d:  Antiavit'e* 
(p.  89) 

,  Salle  de*  Bolte*  (p.  151)  .   .    . 

,  Other  Collection*  (p.  148).    .    . 

—  Fore*tier  (Vincennes  \  p.  805)    .    . 

—  Guimet  (p.  167) 

—  de^cttto<wr«  Compar^«(Trocadoroi 
p.  170)    .   . 

—  Social  (p.  273) 

Notre-Dame,  Treatury  (p.  237)  .    .    . 

Palai*  de  Justice  (p.  220) 

PantMon  (p.  240) 

St.  Denis,  Tomb*  (p.  386) 

St.  Germain,  Mu*eum  (p.  330)    .    .   . 

Ste.  ChapeUe  (p.  221) 

Salon,  Expo*ition  du  (^.  Si)  .  .  .  . 
Sh^e*,  Work*hop*  (p.  297) 


^lL 


12-3 

10-4 
12-4 


9-5,  6 
1-5 

10-5 

!      _ 

12-4 
11-4,  5 

11^3 


— ,  Mu*^e  (p.  297)  . 
Sorbonne,  AmphitMdtre  (p.  239)  .  . 
Tobacco  Manufactory  (p.  281).  .  .  . 
Tomb  of  Napoleon  I.  (p.  280).  .  .  . 
rtrsailles,  Palai*  tt  Trianon*  (p.  310) 
—   ^eu-de-Faume  (p.  325) 


10-4 

11-4,  5 

10-4 

124 
11-4 
12-4 


12-4 
10-4 

10-4 

11-4 
10-4,  5 
12-4,  5 

11-4,  5 


10-4, 5 

10-5V2 
IOV2-4 

12-4,  5 

12-4,  5 

10-1 

12-3^  4 

ia-4 


10-4 

m 
9-5,  6 


10-6 
2-3 

12-4 
11-4, 5 


9-5,  6 
9-6 


10-4 
10-4 
10-4 
12-8 
9-5,6 


12-4 


9-5 
11-5 


9-6 
10-4 
11-4 

10-51/2 


12-6 
12-4,  5 
12-4,  5 


12-3,  4 


10-6 


2-3 

m 

11-8 

9,5,  6 
9-5 
12-8 

11-4,  6 
10-4 

12-4 

11-4,6 

12-4 

1-4 

124 
104 

9-5 

2-5 

11-5 

124,5 

12-4,  5 

0-0 

104 

114 

10-4,5 

10-5V« 
101/2-5 

124,  5 
124,  5 


12-3,  4 


Wedaei- 


104 
1341 

iM 
i-S 
2-8 

124 

114,5 


8-5,6 


114, 
124 


104 

9^ 

11-5 

124,6 

11-4,6 

104 

U4 

104,5 

104^/1 

124,6 

m;6 


11-4,6 


Information.     17.  PI8TB1BUT10N  OF  TIME. 


57 


Thursday 


10-3 

10-4 
10-4 

12^3 

9-5,  6 

1-5 

10-5 

2-3 

2.30 

12-4 

11-4,  5 

11^3 

9-5,  6 
9-5 

11-4 
10-4 

12-4 
11-4,  5 
12-4 
1-4 
12-4 
12-4 
10-4 

9-5 

2-5 

11-5 
12-4,  5 
12-4,  6 

11-4.  5 
9-6 

10-4 

11-4 
10-4,5 

IO-6V2 
101/2-5 
11-4,  5 

8-6 
12-4,  6 
12-4,  6 

11-2 

10-12,2-4 

12-3,4 

12-4,  6 

12^     t 


Friday 


10-4 
10-4 
12-3 
9-5,  6 

10-5 
2-3 

11-4,  5 
1-4 
11-3 

9-5,6 
9-5 
12-3 


11-4,  5 
12-4 


10-4 

9-5 
2-5 
11-5 

12-T,  5 

10-4 
11-4 
10-4,5 
10.51/2 

12-4,  5 
12-4,  5 


12-3,  4 


Saturday 


AdmisBion  free  except  where 
otherwise  stated. 


10-3 
9-5,  6 

10-5 
1-3 
2-3 

12^4 

11-4,  5 

l-l 

11-3 

9-5,  6 
9-5 


11-4,  5 
12-4 
1-4 


10-4 

9-5 
2-5 
11-5 

12-4,  5 

11-4.  5 

9-6 

10-4 

11-4 

10-4,5 

10-51/2 

12-4,  5 
12-4   5 


ii-4,  5   /  ii-4,  5 
12-4      I     12-4 


Director's   permission  required  on  Thursday. 

On  other  days  by  special  permission. 
Special  permission  required  on  week-days. 


During  the  vacation.    Fee. 

From  15th  April  to  15th  Oct.  Closed  during 

the  races. 
11-4  in  winter  (Oct.  1st- April  Ist). 

By  ticket  issued  gratis. 

By  permission  of  the  director. 

Botanic  Garden  open  all  day. 

By  ticket  obtained  at  the  office. 

On  Tues.,  Frid.,  &  Sat.  by  ticket  obtained  at 

the  office. 
Closed  on  certain  holidays. 
10-4  in  winter  (Oct.  Ist-April  1st). 
By  special  permission. 


12-3  in  winter  (Nov.  1st- Jan.  31st). 
Closed  on  the  chief  holidays  (p.  58). 


On  other  days  (except  Mon.)  on  application  \  fee. 

10-4  in  winter  (Oct.  1st- April  1st). 
2-4  in  winter  (Oct.  Ist-April  Ist). 
11-4  in  winter  (Oct.  Ist-April  Ist). 

One-half  closed  on  alternate  days. 


Adm.  1/2  fr. 

Dome  and  vaults  by  special  permisson. 

10  till  dusk  in  winter. 

101/2-4  in  winter. 

Closed  on  chief  holidays. 

From  May  Ist- June  30th  only. 

Special  permission  required. 


Trianons  till  6  p.m.  m  a\mixa.^T. 


58  17.  DlSTEIBUTIOil  OP  TIME. 

Most  of  the  public  collections  and  mnseumB  are  closed  on  Monday, 
and  also  on  the  principal  holidays,  vi%.  Ascension  Day,  July  14th, 
Assumption  (Aug.  15th)  and  All  Saints  (Nov.  1st),  nnlOM  these 
happen  to  fall  on  a  Sunday.  The  Louvre,  Luxembourg,  and  some 
others  are  closed  also  on  Shroye  Tuesday. 

TiTBHARTBs  aio  Open  on  week-days  from  9  a.m.  to  4,5,  or  6  p.m.; 
some  of  them  also  in  the  evening  and  on  Sunday. 

Ghubchbs  are  usually  open  from  morning  till  duik,  but  the 
afternoon  is  the  best  time  for  a  visit,  as  no  service  is  then  held. 
It  should  be  noted  that  many  churches  are  so  daih  that  tiie 
works  of  art  cannot  be  properly  seen  except  by  gas-light.  The 
Madeleine  (p.  81)  is  not  open  to  visitors  till  1  p.m.,  and  sev- 
eral other  churches  are  closed  at  5  p.m.  Sundays  and  festivals 
are  not,  of  course,  suitable  days  for  inspecting  tiie  works  of  «rt 
in  the  churches,  but  they  frequently  offer  opportunities  of  healing 
excellent  music  and  good  preachers.  See  p.  38,  and  the  notloss 
of  the  principal  churches.  The  hours  of  service  are  annonneed  on 
boards  in  the  interior  of  the  buildings.  High  mass  Is  nsnsUy  at 
10  a.m.  The  masses  at  midday  and  1  p.m.  are  espedaUy  attended 
by  the  fashionable  world ;  and  the  scene  on  the  conelnsion  of  ser* 
vice  at  the  Madeleine  (p.  81)  and  other  leading  chnzehes  is  both 
interesting  and  characteristic.  Chairs  within  the  churches  axe  let  for 
5  c.  each ;  on  festivals  10  c. 

The  traveller  should  always  be  provided  with  his  passport,  or  at 
least  visiting-cards ,  which  will  often  procure  him  admission  to  col- 
lections on  days  when  the  public  are  excluded. 


RIGHT  BANK  OF  THE  SEINE. 


The  modern  business  and  fashion  of  Paris  are  chiefly  confined 
to  the  quarters  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Seine,  which  contain  the 
principal  Boulevards,  the  handsomest  streets,  and  the  most  attract- 
iTe  shops,  caf^s,  and  restaurants  in  the  city.  Here,  too,  are  situ- 
ated the  most  important  Theatres,  the  Bourse,  the  Banfc,  thePakiM- 
Royal,  the  H6Ul  des  Posies,  and  the  Halles  Centrales.  The  H6tel 
de  Vide,  the  headquarters  of  the  municipal  authorities,  and  the 
TuUeries,  once  the  seat  of  the  court  but  now  entirely  demolished,  are 
the  great  centres  around  which  the  whole  of  modern  French  history 
has  been  enacted ;  and  in  the  same  region  of  the  city|is  the  Louvre, 
containing  the  greatest  art-collection  in  France. 

The  following  routea  or  itineraries  are  arranged  to  suit  travellers  whose 
stay  in  Paris  is  of  some  duration,  and  it  is  taken  for  granted  that  they 
devote  the  entire  day  to  sight-seeing.  Some  of  these  daily  itineraries  are 
necessarily  rather  long,  bnt  others  (e.g.  those  on  the  left  bank)  are  com- 
paratively short.  Those  who  are  pressed  for  time  may  omit  the  portions 
described  in  small  type. 


1.  The  Palais-Eoyal,  Ene  de  Eivoli,  Bastille,  and 
Boulevards. 

If  the  preliminary  drive  recommended  at  p.  52  has  been  taken,  the 
visitor  need  not  return  to  the  Bastille,  but  may  proceed  to  the  Place  de 
la  B^publique  by  a  more  direct  route.  Another  way  of  returning  from 
the  Bastille  is  indicated  at  p.  218  —  Luncheon  may  be  taken  at  one  of 
the  BouUhns  DuvcU,  Bue  du  Pont-Keuf  10  (near  the  Rue  de  Bivoli),  Bue 
de  Bivoli  47,  and  Bue  St.  Antoine  234;  at  the  Or.  Brasserie  Dreher^  Bue 
St.  Denis  1,  Place  du  Ohatelet;  at  the  Restaurant  de  Paris.  Boul.  de  S^- 
bastopol;  or  at  the  Or.  Taverne  Oruber,  Boul.  Beaumarchais  1,  near  the 
Place  de  la  Bastille. 

I.  THE  PALAI8-B0YAL  AND  THSNGE  TO  THE  h6teL  SE  VILLE. 
St.  Oermain-l'AazerroiB.  Tour  St.  Jacques.  Place  du  Oh&telet.    St.  Kerri. 

The  small  Place  du  Palais-Royal  (PI.  R,  20;  //)  t,  enclosed 
by  the  Palais-Royal  on  the  N.  and  the  Louvre  (p.  86)  on  the  S., 

t  With   regard  to  the  arrangement  of  our  Plan    of  Paris ,    see    note 
preceding  the  list  of  streets.     The  three  sections  of  the  tripartite  plan, 
coloured  respectively  brown,  red,  and  gray,  are  referred  to  in  the  text  by 
the  corresponding  letters  B,  B,  and  G.    It  the  place  sought  for  is  also 
to  be  found  in  one  of  the  five   special  plans  of  the  moit^  Vtsv^^tN.viA 
quarters  of  the  city,  that  plan  is  indicated  by  a  UomMi  1\a\V&  iv\s3sv<&TiX. 
The  above  reference  there/ore  indicates   that  the  "PlaiC^  ^^».  ^«\%.W«.'ai»^> 
is  to  be  found  in  the  Bed  Section,   Square  20,    and  »\ac)  Vn.  >Ax'fe  Specvav 
J%gn,  Jfo.  II. 


60  1.   PALAIS-ROYAL. 

occupies  almost  the  centre  of  Paris,  and  is  one  of  the  best  starting^ 
points  for  exploring  the  city  (station  of  the  Metropolitan  Railway, 
see  Appendix,  p.  33).  The  means  of  communication  between  thii 
point  and  other  quarters  are  very  numerous,  and  yisitors  who  live 
near  the  Opera  may  reach  it  by  a  pleasant  walk  along  the  handsome 
*Avenue  de  I'Opira,  which  dates  mainly  from  1878.  This  ayenne 
has  been  left  without  trees,  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  view  of 
the  opera-house  (p.  78). 

The  Palais-Boyal  (^Pl.  R,  21 ;  //)  is  formed  of  two  quite  dittiBCt 
parts,  —  the  Palace  properly  so  called,  with  its  facade  in  the  eqnaie, 
and  the  Garden  surrounded  with  Oalleries,  the  most  interestbif 
part,  behind. 

The  Palace  is  at  present  occupied  by  the  Conaeil  d^Etat^  and 
is  not  open  to  the  public. 

This  palace  was  erected  by  Cardinal  Bicheliea  in  1619-36,  and  n*miM* 
the  Palau'Cardinal.  After  his  death  it  was  occupied  by  Anne  of  Auatria, 
the  widow  of  Louis  XIII.,  with  her  two  sons  Louis  XIY.  and  Fhllip  of 
Orleans,  then  in  their  minority,  and  since  then  the  baUding  baa  beo 
called  the  PalaU-Royal.  Louis  XIV.  presented  the  palace  to  hla  brother 
Duke  Philip  of  Orleans,  whose  son,  PMUp  of  Orlean*  (d.  172S),  regaat 
during;  the  minority  of  Louis  XV.,  afterwards  indulged  here  in  those  dis- 
graceful orgies  which  are  described  by  his  contemporary  the  Ihu  dt  A. 
Simon.  Philippe  EgaliU^  who  was  beheaded  in  1793,  grandson  of  tlio  regent, 
led  a  scarcely  less  riotous  and  extravagant  life  than  his  grand&iher.  la 
order  to  replenish  his  exhausted  coffers,  he  caused  the  garden  to  be  sar* 
rounded  with  houses,  which  he  let  for  commercial  purposes,  and  thus 
materially  improved  his  revenues.  The  caf^s  on  the  groondfloor  soon 
became  a  favourite  rendezvous  of  democrats  and  malcontents.  It  wu 
here  that  Camille  Desmoulins  called  the  populace  to  arms  on  iSHh  July, 
1789,  two  days  before  he  led  them  to  the  capture  of  the  Bastille  (p.  IQ). 
The  building  was  now  called  the  Palai*-EgaliUp  and  subsequently,  when 
Napoleon  assembled  the  Tribunate  here  in  1801-7,  the  PtOaU  d»  Tritmai 

On  the  Restoration  of  the  Bourbons  in  1815  the  Orleans  family  regain- 
ed possession  of  the  Palais-Royal,  and  it  was  occupied  by  LouiU  PM9^p€ 
down  to  the  end  of  1830.  On  24th  February,  1848,  the  mob  made  a  oon- 
plete  wreck  of  the  royal  apartments.  After  this  the  building  was  sMed 
the  Palait- National;  but  its  original  name  was  restored  by  Napoleon  IIL, 
who  assigned  the  S.  wing,  opposite  the  Louvre,  as  a  residence  fat  Ua 
uncle.  Prince  Jerome  Xapoleon,  the  former  King  of  Westphalia  (d.  tSBQ). 
After  the  death  of  the  latter  it  was  occupied  by  his  son  (d.  18B1),  wko 
bore  the  same  name.  On  22nd  May,  1871,  the  Communards  set  the  Falsi*- 
Royal  on  fire,  and  the  S.  wing,  together  with  the  greater  part  of  tlie 
buildings  of  the  Cour  d*Honneur,  became  a  prey  to  the  flames. 

The  Palais-Royal,  long  a  favourite  rendezvous  of  visitors  to  Paris,  is 
now  becoming  gradually  more  and  more  deserted.  like  the  Plaes  del 
Vosges  (p.  217),  which  formerly  acted  the  same  part,  it  is  being  sui^ 
sedcd  by  newer  and  mure  elegant  quarters  farther  to  the  W.  \  wkil* 
its  unobtrusive  entrances,  accessible  only  to  foot-passengers,  are  not  oal* 
culated  to  attract  strangers.  The  site  is  admirably  adapted  for  a  eentral 
railway-station,  still  a  desideratum  in  Paris. 

The  principal  entrance  to  the  *6allebies  and  the  Gabdbn  is  ts 

the  left  of  the  fa^de,  between  the  Palais  and  the  Tk£6iirt  IVmci^ 

(p.  61).    The  first  gallery  to  the  left  is  the  QdUrie  de  Chartm. 

To  the  right  is  the  handsome  Galerle  d^OrUonA.  da.tliie  only  tOB 

1630. 


1.  THfiiTRE  FJElANgAIS.  61 

The  groundfloor  of  the  arcaded  block  of  buildings  inclosing  the 
garden  was  formerly  occupied  almost  exclusively  by  jewellers'  and 
similar  shops ;  now  there  are  several  shops  ^to  let\  Bestaurants  2k  la 
carte  and  h.  prix  flxe ,  see  p.  17.  —  The  E.  side  of  the  square  is 
called  the  OaUrie  de  Valois,  the  W.  side  the  Oalerie  Montpensier 
(with  the  ThSdtre  du  Palais -Royal,  p.  34),  and  the  N.  side  the 
Oalerie  Beaujolaie. 

The  Gakdbn,  250  yds.  in  length  and  110  yds.  in  breadth,  and 
hardly  deserving  of  the  name ,  is  scantily  shaded  by  a  quadruple 
row  of  small  trees.  In  the  centre  is  a  circular  basin  of  water, 
near  which  a  military  band  generally  plays  in  summer  (p.  38). 
The  garden  is  embellished  with  several  sculptures,  viz.,  from  S.  to 
N. :  Eurydice  bitten  by  a  serpent,  by  Nanteuil;  Mercury,  by  Cugnot; 
the  Snake  Charmer,  by  Thabard;  Boy  struggling  with  a  goat,  by 
Lemoine;  the  Versailles  Diana,  after  the  antique;  and  a  Youth 
bathing,  by  Esparcieux  (d.  1840),  The  chairs  are  let  at  10  c.  each; 
the  benches  are  free. 

To  the  W.  of  the  palace  is  the  small  Place  du  Thidtre-Fran^ais, 
at  the  end  of  the  Avenue  de  TOptfra  (p.  60).  It  is  embellished 
with  two  handsome  modern  fountains  by  Davioud,  with  nymphs  in 
bronze  by  Carrier-Belleuse  and  Moreau. 

The  ThA&tre  Fran9ais  (PI.  B,  21 ;  77)  was  founded  in  1786-90, 
and  has  been  used  for  the  performances  of  the  Comedie  Fran^aise 
since  1799.  In  March,  1900,  it  feU  a  prey  to  the  flames,  but,  for- 
tunately, the  exterior  escaped  practically  unscathed,  and  the  damage 
to  the  interior  is  being  rapidly  made  good. 

Most  of  the  sculptures  which  it  contained  have  been  saved  and  are 
now  exhibited  at  the  Louvre,  in  a  room  adjoining  the  new  Salle  Carpeaux 
(p.  108),  whence  they  will  be  transferred  to  their  former  position  after  the 
reconstruction  of  the  theatre.  Among  them  are  statues  of  Talma,  the 
tragedian  (d.  1826),  by  David  d' Angers,  and  of  the  celebrated  actresses  Mile. 
Rachel  (d.  1868),  as  'Phaidra\  by  Duret,  and  Mile.  Mars  (d.  1840,  as  'C^li- 
mene'  (in  Moli^re^s  'Misanthrope'),  by  Thomas;  a  famous  *Statue  of  Voltaire 
(d.  1778),  by  Houdon;  a  statue  of  George  Sand  (d.  1876),  by  CUsinget-;  a 
chimney-piece  with  a  relief  representing  comedians  crowning  the  figure  of 
Moliere,  by  Laguerre;  and  buets  of  celebrated  French  dramatists  (Moliere, 
by  Houdon),  —  The  performances  of  the  Comedie  Frangais  are  being  pro- 
visionally given  in  the  Od^on  (p.  33),  but  the  Th^itre  Francais  will  prob- 
ably be  re-opened  in  the  autumn  of  1900. 

Between  the  Place  du  Palais-Boyal  and  the  Louvre  passes  the 
•Bue  de  RivoU  (PI.  B,  18,  20,  23;  77,  777,  F),  one  of  the  most 
important  streets  in  Paris  after  the  Boulevards,  constructed  between 
1802  and  1865  and  named  in  honour  of  Napoleon^s  victory  over  the 
Austrians  at  Bivoli  in  1797.    Leaving  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  it 
runs  parallel  with  the  Seine  for  1^/4  M.,  and  ends  at  the  Bue  St. 
Antoine,  which  forms  a  prolongation  connecting  it  w\l\i.\X\fe'^\^.^^ 
de  la  Bastille.   It  passes  the  Garden  of  tbeTm\eT\fe*,  ^%\^w\^t^^ 
and  the  P\ttee  du  PaMs^Royal,  this  part  of  the  street  ^  ^«:t  ^-^  *C8^^ 
Bae  dn  Loavre  being  flanked  by  arcades  on  tbe  ^ .  «v^^,  xv^^^^^^  ^^ 


62  1.   ST.  GERMAIN-L'AUXEBROIS. 

Y2  M-  in  length,  where  there  are  many  attractiYe  Bhops  and  hoteb 
of  the  highest  class.  We  follow  it  to  the  left  from  the  PalaiB-Boyal, 
with  our  backs  to  the  Place  de  la  C!oucorde.  On  the  right  xiset  tke 
Palais  du  Louvre  (p.  86);  on  the  left  the  Magasina  du  Lomon 
(p.  40).  To  the  left,  farther  on  and  partly  concealed  by  the  uroadef , 
is  the  Temple  de  VOratoiref  a  church  erected  by  the  pziettt  of  the 
Oratoire  in  1621-30,  but  now  used  as  a  Protestant  place  of  wonhip 
(p.  50).  A  statue  of  Admiral  Coligny,  one  of  the  victims  of  the  Night 
of  St.  Bartholomew  (p.  87),  by  Giauk,  was  erected  here  in  1889;  it 
represents  the  admiral  between  his  Fatherland  and  Religion. 

At  this  point  the  arcades  terminate,  and  the  Rue  de  Biyoli  if 
intersected  by  the  £u«  du  Louvre  (station  of  the  Metropolitan  Rail- 
way,  see  Appendix,  p.  33).  The  first  building  to  the  right  in  the 
Rue  du  Louvre  is  the  Yieux  Louvre,  with  the  famous  Colonnade  by 
Perrault  (p.  88).  Opposite  rises  the  Mairie  of  the  1  at  ArrondUaemeiU 
(Louvre),  which  tries,  somewhat  unhappily,  to  secure  harmony  of 
effect  by  giving,  though  in  modified  Renaissance,  an  'echo  of  the 
Gothic  ideas'  in  the  adjoining  church  of  St.  Germain-l'AQxenois. 
The  ^  Salle  des  Mariages'  in  the  Mairie  is  adorned  with  paintings  by 
Besnard. 

The  church  of  *St.  Oermain-rAnxerroi8(Pl.  R,  !20 ;  lU)^  founded 
in  the  6th  century,  dates  in  its  present  form  from  the  13«16th 
centuries.  The  facade,  which  is  pierced  with  a  rose-window  of  rich 
Flamboyant  tracery  and  flanked  by  two  hexagonal  turrets,  is  preceded 
by  a  porch  surmounted  by  a  balustrade  and  adorned  in  the  interior 
with  frescoes,  now  sadly  defaced.  When  the  gate  is  closed,  Tlsitort 
are  admitted  by  the  right  side-entrance.  —  The  signal  for  the 
massacre  of  St.  Bartholomew  (Aug.  24th  and  25th,  1572)  wa8  given 
from  the  little  bell-tower  of  this  church,  to  the  right  of  the  transept 

The  '^Intebiob,  to  which  the  lowness  of  the  roof  gives  a  depressed  char- 
acter, consists  of  nave  and  double  aisles,  and  is  surrounded  with  chapels* 
The  pillars  of  the  nave  were  converted  into  fluted  columns  in  the  17th  eentt 
and  the  handsome  woodwork  of  the  'Banc  d'CEuvre'  (in  the  nave,  to  the 
left)  dates  from  the  same  period. 

The  walls  are  covered  with  modem  frescoes ,  the  finest  of  which  is 
a  Descent  from  the  Cross,  in  the  S.  transept,  by  Ouichard  (1845).  Tha 
\B.TgQ  chapel  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  (seldom  accessible)  is  closed  b/ 
handsome  woodwork,  and  contains  a  Tree  of  Jesse,  in  stone,  of  the  litk 
cent.,  a  Gothic  altar  designed  by  M.  VioUet-le-Duc^  several  paintings,  a&i 
stained  glass  by  Amaury-Duval.  The  marble  Baiin  for  holy  water  in  ths 
8.  transept,  designed  by  Mme.  de  Lamartine  and  executed  by  JanffrPify  il 
surmounted  by  a  finely-sculptured  group  of  three  »ngels  aronqd  a  ttrois. 

—  The  fourth  chapel  of  the  choir  beyond  the  Sacristy  contains  *MoniunemlS 
in  marble  to  the  chancellor  Etienne  d^Aligre  (d.  1635)  and  his  son  (d.  1^4> 

—  The  chapel  beyond  that  of  the  apse  contains  two  statues  from  a  maaso- 
lenm  of  the  Rostaing  family  (16th  cent.).  The  next  chapel  but  one  ooB' 
tains  a  monument  to  St.  Denis,  who  is  said  to  have  been  interred  1^  this 
spot  after  his  martyrdom  (p.  205).  The  chapel  adjoining  the  IR.  traaMpt 
contains  an  altar-piece  in  wood  in  the  Flamboyant  style,  repreaanttif 
the  history  of  Christ  and  the  Virgin. 

Between  the  Mairie  and  tlie  c\iuic^\i  \%  «^  %^«.t«  to'ver  wiA  • 
chime  of  bells,  conatruoted  by  BaUn  to  fiVY  \x^  XV^  %^^.  — ^^rswa.'^ 


1.    TOUE  ST.  JACQUES.  63 

end  of  the  Rue  du  Lonvie  we  obtain  a  good  view  of  the  Pont- 
Neuf  with  the  statue  of  Henri  lY.  (p.  223),  and  of  the  dome  of 
the  Pantheon  (p.  240)  rising  in  the  backgronnd. 

Beyond  the  Rue  dn  Lonvre  the  Rue  de  Rivoli  intersects  the 
Rne  dn  Pont-Nenf ,  leading  from  the  bridge  of  that  name  to  the 
Halles  Centrales  (p.  173).  Farther  on .  to  the  left ,  diverges  the 
Rne  des  Halles.  To  the  right,  beyond  the  Rue  des  Lavandi&res,  is 
the  Station  du  Chdtelet  of  the  Metropolitan  Railway  (see  Appx., 
p.  33).  We  then  cross  the  Boulevard  de  Sibastopol  (p.  75),  which  is 
terminated  on  the  S.  by  the  Place  du  Ch&telet  (see  below). 

In  a  small  square  to  the  right  rises  the  *Tonr  St.  Jacqnes  (PL 
R,  23 ;  ///,  V)j  a  handsome  square  Gothic  tower,  175  ft.  in  height, 
erected  in  1508-22,  a  relic  of  the  church  of  St.  Jacques  de  la 
Boucherie,  which  was  sold  and  taken  down  in  1789.  The  tower  was 
purchased  by  the  city  in  1836  and  subjected  to  a  process  of  restor- 
ation. In  the  hall  on  the  groundfloor  is  a  statue  (by  Cavelier)  of  the 
philosopher  Paacdl  (1623-62),  who  is  said  to  have  repeated  on  the 
summit  of  this  tower  (or,  according  to  other  authorities,  on  the 
tower  of  St.  Jacques  du  Haut-Pas,  p.  285)  his  experiments  with 
regard  to  atmospheric  pressure  originally  made  on  the  Puy  de  Dome. 
The  *yiBw  from  the  summit  of  the  Tour  de  St.  Jacques  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Paris,  as  the  tower  occupies  a  very  central  position,  but 
the  public  are  not  allowed  to  ascend  except  with  a  permit  obtained 
gratis  at  the  H6tel  de  Ville  (Direction  des  Travaux)  daily  11-5, 
except  Sun.  and  holidays,  though  sometimes  an  application  to  the 
keeper  of  the  square  (fee)  is  sufficient.  —  The  Square  de  la  Tour 
St.  Jacques  is  embellished  with  bronze  sculptures  of  the  Bread- 
bearer,  *Ducks  and  Drakes'  ('Le  Ricochet'),  andCyparissus,  by  Cou- 
tan,  Vital  Cornu,  and  H.  Pie, 

The  Squares  of  Paris,  like  the  great  majority  of  the  other  promenades 
of  the  city,  are  both  useful  and  ornamental.  Though  they  have  been  con- 
structed on  the  model  of  the  London  squares,  the  enjoyment  of  the  gardens 
with  which  they  are  laid  out  is  by  no  means  confined  to  a  few  privileged 
individuals,  but  is  free  to  all-comers.  The  formation  of  squares  of  this  sort 
has  been  a  prominent  feature  of  the  modem  street  improvements  of  Paris. 

The  modern  AvenueVictoria^  which  skirts  the  S.  side  of  the  Square 
de  la  Tour  de  St.  Jacques,  leads  hence  to  the  H6tel  deYllle  (p.  65). 

The  Place  du  Ch&telet  (PL  R,  20,  23;   F),  the  site  of  which 
was  occupied  till  1802  by  the  notorious  prison  of  that  name,  lies  at 
the  S.  end  of  the  Boulevard  de  S^astopol ,    on  the  bank  of  the 
Seine.    The  Fontaine  de  la  Victoire^  designed  by  Bosio,  and  erected 
here  in  1807,  commemorates  the  first  victories  gained  by  Napoleon  I. 
It  is  adorned  with  four  figures  representing  Fidelity,   Vigilance, 
Justice,  and  Power,   and  surmounted  by  the  'Colonne  du  Palmier', 
on  which  are  inscribed  the  names  of  15  battles.   On  th^  %\«MsvS\.Sa» 
a  gilded  statue  of  Victory.    The  monument  ongmaW:^  ^\/5i;i^lii:0(JcL«^ 
f^om  the  Seine,  hut  was  removed  entire  on  t\ie  con^Xt^cXAWcv^'^^^^ 
Boulevard  de  S^baatopol  in  1855,  and  le-eiected  \iete  <iw  ^  ^e^^^^*^*^ 


64  1.    SEWERS. 

adorned  with  fonr  sphinxes  (lestoied  in  1899-1900).  On  this  tide 
of  the  fountain  is  the  mansion  of  the  Chanibre  dea  Notabret^  wKh  « 
plan  of  the  Ghatelet  on  the  facade.  On  the  right  and  lelt  of  the 
Place  du  Ghatelet  are  situated  the  Thidtre  du  ChdteUt  (p.  84)  and 
the  Thedtre  Sarah  Bernhardt  respectively  (see  p.  34). 

In  the  Place  da  Ch&telet  is  one  of  the  usual  entranoes  to  fhe  TUt 
network  of  Sewers  (EgouU)  by  wMch  Paris  is  undermined.  They  •!• 
generally  shown  to  the  public  on  the  second  and  fourth  Wednesday  of  eack 
month  in  summer.  Written  application  should  be  made  in  advanee  to  the 
Priftt  d»  la  Seine^  on  a  stamped  paper  costing  00  c,  mentioning  the  nvmber 
of  visitors  and  enclosing  a  stamp  for  the  reply,  which  will  detenalse  tke 
time  and  place  of  starting.  The  visit,  in  which  ladies  need  have  no  hetf* 
tation  in  taking  part,  lasts  about  1  hr.,  and  ends  at  the  Place  de  la  Ibie- 
leine.  Visitors  are  conveyed  partly  on  comfortable  electric  cars,  partly  la 
boats,  so  that  no  fatigue  is  involved. 

The  system  of  drainage  in  Paris  is  very  complete  and  has  had  a  most 
beneficial  effect  on  the  health  of  the  population.  The  total  length  of  ttie 
network  of  sewers  of  Paris  is  now  about  620  M.,  not  reckoning  the  drsins 
radiating  to  private  houses.  Kot  less  than  160  If .  remain  still  to  be  auAe. 
In  1837  there  were  only  40  M.  of  sewers  and  in  1856  only  100  X.  The 
average  cost  of  these  huge  works  is  100  fr.  per  m^tre  (nearly  41.  per 
yd.).  The  basin  in  which  the  city  lies  is  divided,  into  four  parts  bj 
two  large  sewers  at  right  angles  with  the  Seine,  and  running  under  the 
Boul.  de  Sdbastopol  and  Boul.  St.  Michel  respectively.  These,  which  flow, 
not  into  the  river,  but  into  8  channels  parallel  with  it  (known  as  XffMti 
CoUecteurt),  are  augmented  by  12  or  16  tributaries,  which  in  their  ton 
receive  the  contents  of  numerous  smaller  drains. 

The  ^collecteurs'  of  the  right  bank  empty  themselves  into  the  CotUdmir 
Glniral  d'Amikres^  below  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  which  conducts 
the  water  far  below  Paris,  to  be  there  used  for  irrigation  (p.  281).  This 
main  drain  carries  off  about  340,000  cubic  feet  of  water  per  hour,  hat  ii 
capable  of  passing  twice  that  quantity.  In  consequence,  however,  of  the 
popular  abuse  of  the  convenience  of  the  drains,  it  was  found  necessary 
to  construct  a  second  and  larger  main  drain,  the  CoUuii&ur  BimiuA  4t 
Clichy,  which  also  begins  at  the  Place  de  la  (Joncorde.  The  ^coUecteon* 
of  the  left  bank  and  of  the  islands  in  the  Seine  are  connected  with  the 
rest  of  the  system  by  means  of  siphons  passing  under  the  bed  of  ther 
river.  The  smallest  sewers  are  about  7  ft.  high  and  4  ft.  wide,  the  largest 
16  ft.  high  by  18  ft.  wide.  All  the  drains  are  constructed  of  solid  masonry, 
and  lined  with  hydraulic  cement.  The  'collecteurs^  are  flanked  with  paive^ 
ments  or  ledges,  between  which  the  water  runs,  and  above  one  or  boUi 
of  which  is  a  pipe  for  pure  water.  All  these  channels  commnnieate  with 
the  streets  by  numerous  iron  ladders,  and  each  is  furnished  with  its  ti»- 
tinctive  mark  and  the  name  of  the  street  above. 

The  cleaning  of  those  sewers  in  which  there  is  a  channel  flanked 
with  ledges  is  effected  by  a  very  ingenious  system.  There  are  boats  or 
waggons  of  the  same  width  as  the  channel,  each  provided  with  a  vertieal 
gate  or  slide,  which  when  let  down  exactly  fits  the  channel.  When  tte 
slide  is  adjusted  the  boat  is  propelled  downwards  by  the  force  of  the 
stream,  scraping  clean  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  sewer  as  it  adTSnces. 

The  Pont  an  Change  leads  from  the  Place  dn  Chfttelet  to  the 
Oit^  (p.  219).  The  bridge,  which  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  and 
renowned  In  Paris,  was  entirely  rebuilt  in  1858-59.  Its  name  !• 
derived  from  the  shops  of  the  money-changers  and  goldsmiths  with 
which  the  old  bridge  was  flanked. 

The  bridge  commands  a  fine  view.    Opposite  lies  the  Git^,  with  the 
Palais  de  Justice  and  the  Tribunal  de  Commerce  •.«  higher  up  the  rirer  ait 
tlie  Hotel  Dieu   and  Notre  Dame-,  to  the  \eU  \\i«i  m\fe\  ^«^ ^VfiL<b  vui fhe    . 
Tour  de  St.  Gervafs;  down  the  river  appear  tYie'Po^J^'^«^JL^^^^\i««T»^#fc. 


1.    HOTEL  DE  VILLE.  65 

In  the  Bue  St.  Martin,  a  little  to  the  N.  £.  of  the  Toui  St. 
Jacques,  rises  the  church  of  St.  Herri  (PI.  R,  23 ;  III),  formerly 
St.  Midiric,  in  the  l>e8t  Gothic  style,  although  dating  from  1520- 
1612.  It  possesses  a  beautiful  though  unfinished  portal  in  the  Flam- 
boyant style. 

The  Imtbbiob  was  disfigured  in  a  pseudO'Classical  style  by  Boffrand 
(ISth  cent.),  who  was  also  the  architect  of  the  large  chapel  on  the  right. 
Among  the  most  noteworthy  contents  are  a  large  marble  crucifix,  by 
Dubo%$^  at  the  high-altar ;  two  good  pictures  by  C.  Van  Loo  (d.  1766),  at  the 
entrance  to  the  choir  (to  the  left,  St.  Carlo  Borromeo);  and  a  painting 
(Reparation  for  sacrilege)  by  Belle  (d.  1806),  in  the  left  transept.  The  chapels 
of  the  ambulatory  are  adorned  with  fine  frescoes  by  Comu,  Lehmann^ 
Amaurp- Duval,  Cha»$4riau,  Lipaulk,  Matoui,  Olaize,  Lafon^  and  others, 
which,  however,  are  very  badly  lighted.  —  The  stained-glass  'Windows  of 
the  choir  date  from  the  16th  century. 

We  now  return  to  the  Rue  de  Rivoli ,  and  soon  reach  the  H6tel 
de  Ville ,  in  a  small  Place  (p.  68)  to  the  right,  between  that  street 
and  the  Seine.  _. 

The  •Hdtel  de  Ville  (PI.  R,  23;  V),  or  town-hall  of  Paris,  in 
many  respects  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  city,  was  erected  in 
1876-84  by  BaVLu  and  Deperthes  as  an  enlarged  and  enriched  replica 
of  the  old  H6tel  de  Ville,  burned  by  the  Communards  in  1871. 

The  construction  of  the  old  Hdtel  de  Ville  was  begun  in  1633,  but 
was  not  completed  till  the  beginning  of  the  following  cent.,  in  the  reign 
of  Henri  IV.  The  original  plans  seem  to  have  been  by  Domenico  Boccadoro 
da  Cortona,  though  the  building  was  begun  under  the  superintendence  uf 
Pierre  Cheunbigee  (comp.  p.  87),  a  Frenchman.  It  was  afterwards  enlarged 
several  times,  the  latest  additions  being  completed  in  1841. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville  has  played  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  dififerent  re- 
volutions, having  been  the  usual  rallying-place  of  Uie  democratic  party. 
On  14th  July,  1789,  the  captors  of  the  Bastille  were  conducted  in  triumph 
into  the  great  hall.  Three  days  later  Louis  XVI.  came  in  procession 
from  Versailles  to  the  Hotel  de  Ville  under  the  protection  of  Bailly  and 
other  popular  deputies,  thus  publicly  testifying  his  submission  to  the  will 
of  the  National  Assembly.  The  king  was  accompanied  by  a  dense  mob, 
to  whom  he  showed  himself  at  the  window  of  the  Hdtel  de  Ville  wearing 
the  tri-coloured  cockade,  which  Lafayette  had  just  chosen  as  the  cognis- 
ance of  the  new  national  guard.  On  27th  July,  1794  (9th  Thermidor), 
when  the  Commune,  the  tool  employed  by  Robespierre  against  the  Con- 
vention, waa  holding  one  of  its  meetings  here,  Barras  with  five  battalions 
forced  his  entrance  in  the  name  of  the  (3onvention,  and  Robespierre,  to 
escape  arrest,  attempted  to  shoot  himself,  but  only  succeeded  in  shatter- 
ing his  jaw.  Here  was  also  celebrated  the  union  of  the  July  Monarchy 
with  the  bourgeoisie,  when  Louis  Philippe  presented  himself  at  one  of  the 
windows,  in  August,  1830,  and  in  view  of  the  populace  embraced  Lafav- 
ette.  From  the  steps  of  the  Hdtel  de  Ville,  on  24th  Feb.,  1848,  Louis 
Blanc  proclaimed  the  institution  of  the  republic.  From  4th  Sept.,  1870. 
to  28th  Feb.,  1871,  the  Hdtel  de  Ville  was  the  seat  of  the  ^gouvemement 
de  la  defense  nationale\  and  from  19th  March  to  22nd  May,  ISTTl,  that  of  the 
C!ommanardfl  and  their  ^comit^  du  salut  public'. 

The  Hdtel  de  Ville  having  been  doomed  to  destruction  by  the  leaders 
of  the  Commune,  heaps  of  combustibles,  steeped  in  petroleum,  and  barrels 
of  gunpowder  were  placed  in  various  parts  of  the  building.    At  the  same 
time  every  approach  to  the  building  was  strongly  barricaded.    On  \Xv&  -qvqtvl- 
ing  of  24th  May  a  fearful  struggle  began  In  the  Place  de  Vl^^\je\-^'e-NV>\^> 
and  it  was  protracted  without  intermission  until  tlie  tollowlu^  Tn.crra2ai%>    K% 
tha  iaanrgents  were  gnduAlly  driven  back,  they   %vr^  vetvX.  \o  \Xi^Vt  T%.^fc 
Mad  deapaSr  bjr  aetting  on  &re  m&ny  of  the  surrouiidii^s  b\xWAiTi?,Sk  «>.xk.d  «^ix^^^ 
Bammjux.  Psris.    Uth  Edit.  \\ 


66  1.  h6tbl  de  ville. 

itiulted  Ihe  combustibles  iu  the  Uutel  de  Ville,  altbougU  about  600  of  their 
party  were  Btill  within  its  precincts.  The  troops,  now  mMten  of  the 
whole  neighbourhood  and  granting  uo  quarter,  directed  an  ineeMiat  flre 
against  the  unhappy  occupants,  all  of  whom  perished.    It  waa,  liowtver, 

impossible  to  save  the  devoted  building. 

The  new  H6tel  de  Yille  is  a  magnificent  structure  in  the  French 
Renaissance  style ,  with  dome-coYored  pavilions  at  the  anglei  (re- 
calling the  medisBval  towers),  mansard  windows,  and  lofty  deeor- 
ated  chimneys.  The  building  is  entirely  detached  and  is  snizounded 
by  an  area  with  a  railing,  affording  light  to  the  sunk  floor.  The  ground- 
floor  Is  adorned  with  pilasters,  and  the  first  floor  with  engaged  pilUrfi 
of  the  composite  order.  Above  the  first  floor  is  a  kind  of  entreBol, 
while  the  pavilions  have  an  extra  story. 

The  *Main  Facade  is  divided  into  three  approximately  equal 
parts.  That  in  the  centre,  projecting  beyond  the  others,  has  three 
entrances,  two  of  which  are  carriage-archways  with  pavilions.  In 
front  of  the  third  are  bronze  statues  of  Science,  by  Blanchftrd^  and 
Art,  by  Marquesle,  In  the  niches  of  the  principal  stories  (and  also 
oTi  all  the  pavilions)  are  statues  of  celebrated  men  of  allageSi  while 
(Ml  the  cornices  are  allegorical  groups  and  figures  representing  the 
chief  towns  of  France.  The  facade  is  farther  adorned  with  a  hand- 
some clock  surrounded  with  seven  statues ,  a  graceful  Compofiife, 
and  (on  the  roof)  ten  gilded  figures  of  heralds  (the  taste  of  which, 
however,  has  been  criticised).  Including  a  few  statues  in  the  courts, 
there  are  about  200  Statues  and  Groups  on  the  exterior  of  the  H6tel. 
Most  of  these  are  explained  by  inscriptions. 

The  other  facades,  which  differ  from  each  other,  are  also  worthy 
of  inspection.  The  small  garden  on  the  side  next  the  Seine  con- 
tains a  bronze  Equestrian  Statue  ofEtienne  Marcel  (p.xxll),  by  Idrac 
and  Marqueste.  The  entrances  on  the  rear  side  are  guarded  by  bronze 
lions,  by  Cain  and  Jacquemart, 

Visitors  may  at  all  times  walk  through  the  H6tel  de  Ville  and 
i  nspect  the  handsome  courts. 

In  the  *Intbbiok  are  various  Offices ^  open  for  business  only; 
the  Salle  du  Conaeil  Municipal,  in  the  middle  of  the  first  floor  next 
the  Place,  to  which  the  publi(j  are  admitted  during  the  council 
meetings,  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.  at  3  p.m.  (tickets  from  the 
ciincierges) ;  the  Apartments  of  the  Prefect  of  the  Seine;  and  the  Uf- 
(leption  Saloons,  which  are  open  to  the  publi(;  daily,  except  on  holi- 
days and  days  immediately  preceding  or  following  a  public  reception 

Tickets  to  view  the  interior  are  obtained  gratis  between  2  and  4  p.m. 
iu  the  secretary's  office,  in  the  K.  court  (to  the  left  as  we  approach  from 
tEie  Place),  staircase  D  (to  the  left),  first  floor  above  the  entresol.  VUltOM 
tliea  proceed  to  the  Salle  des  Prevots,  to  the  right  of  the  archway,  whers 
they  are  met  by  an  official  who  escorts  them  over  the  building  (>/>  lur.{  fee) 

We  first  enter  a  gallery  containing  two  groups  in  marble:  the 

'First  Burial',  by  E,  Barrias,  and  'Paradise  Lost',  by  Oautherin,  In 

tlie  central  court  is  another  group  ^  'Q\oria.  Ylctia'^  by  MereU,  V« 

skirt  this  couit  to  the  right  to  reacVv  tV.  aU\it^'&^%  \o  ^"^  to^»t««« 


1.  h6tbl  de  villb.  67 

On  the  groundfloor,  at  the  back,  is  the  large  Salle  St  Jean  (not 
usually  shown],  for  large  meetings,  above  which  are  the  Sallea  den 
FtieB^  approached  by  two  magnificent  marble  staircases. 

The  galleries  and  rooms  on  the  first  floor  are  richly  decorated, 
and  the  ceilings  and  walls  are  adorned  with  paintings  by  modern 
artists.  —  The  VtBtibuUs  and  Corridors  at  the  top  of  the  staircases 
are  painted  with  landscapes  and  views  of  Paris  and  its  environs. 
Between  the  corridors  is  the  Salon  des  CariatideSy  vdth  paintings  by 
Carolv8-Duran  and  a  large  vase  of  red  and  green  jasper  from  the 
Ural  Mts.,  presented  by  the  Czar  of  Russia  in  memory  of  the  recep- 
tion of  Russian  naval  officers  and  seamen  at  Paris  in  1893.  — 
The  Salon  d'Arrivie  Nord  contains  a  large  painting  by  Foll^  repre- 
senting the  Pleasures  of  Life.  This  room  has  a  fine  cassetted  ceiling, 
like  all  the  other  rooms  that  have  not  ceiling-paintings.  The  Salon 
d' Introduction  Nord  and  the  Portique  Nord  have  ceiling-paintings  by 
Bouia  and  F.  Barrios,  —  Then  follows  the  main  hall ,  or  *Orande 
SaUe  dea  Fitea,  164  ft.  long,  42  ft.  wide,  and  42  ft.  high.  On  the 
side  of  this  hall  next  the  Place  Loban  is  a  gallery,  above  which  is 
another  smaller  gallery,  continued  also  on  the  remaining  three  sides. 
•  Ceiling  Paintings:  ProgresB  of  Music,  by  Gervex;  Perfume,  by  O.  Fer- 
rier;  Paris  inviting  the  world  to  her  fStes,  by  BenJ.  Constant;  Flowers, 
by  0.  Fetrier;  the  Progress  of  Dancing,  by  A.  Morot.  Above  tbe  doors  are 
representations  of  the  old  provinces  of  France  (names  inscribed  above),  by 
WeerUy  F.  Himbert,  Ehrmann^  and  P.  ifilUet.  —  The  sculptures,  especially 
the  caiyatides  and  th&  groups  in  high  relief,  by  various  artists,  should  be 
uoted.  In  the  panels  of  the  side-gallery  are  paintings  (scenes  front  th»^ 
history  of  Paris)  by  Clairin^  Cazin^  Berteaiix^  Bavdomn^  and  Rlnnchon,  jnid 
the  small  cupolas  contain  frescoes  by  Pieard  and  Risler. 

At  the  other  end  of  the  Salle  are  the  Portique  Sud^  decorated  by 
H.  Livy  (Hours  of  the  Night  and  Day),  and  the  Salon  d' Introduction 
Sud,  decorated  by  H,  Martin  (Apollo  and  the  Muses;  on  the  frieze. 
Music,  Sculpture,  Painting,  and  Poetry).  —  We  now  enter  the 
^SaUe  h  Manger  de  Reception ,  which  has  three  ceiling-paintings  by 
Georges  Bertrand  (Agriculture,  Harvest,  Vintage),  and  six  marble 
statues:  Hunting,  by  E.  Barrias;  the  Toast,  by  Idrac;  Fishing,  by 
Falguilre;  Wine,  by  A,  Crauk;  Song,  by  Dalou;  and  Harvest,  by 
Chapu.  —  At  the  angle  of  the  side  next  the  Seine  is  the  *Salon 
Lobau,  with  paintings  by  J.  P.  Laurens:  Louis  VI.  granting  the  first 
charter  of  Paris;  Etienne  Marcel  protecting  the  Dauphin;  Repres- 
sion of  the  revolt  of  the  Malllotins  (1352) ;  Anne  Dubourg  protestiiifj; 
in  Parliament  before  Henri  II.  against  the  oppression  of  the  Hugue- 
nots (1569);  Arrest  of  Broussel  (1648);  Pache,  Mayor  of  Paris  in 
1793;  Turgot;  Louis  XVI.  at  the  H6tel  de  Ville  (1789),  a  com- 
position known  as  the  'arch  of  steeV. 

In  the  S.  wing,  next  the  Seine,  are  a  number  of  rooms,  some  of 
which  are  usually  inaccessible. 

Pkbiobr  Salon  de  Passage:  Louis  XI.  entering Patia,  \ii  TttUAvalu, — 
*SiALON  DES  Sciences.  Paintings.    On  the  ceiling ;  ApotiiftoaVft  ol\\v«^  %<i\«iv'i'6a^ 
Meteorologj,  and  Electricity^  by  Bernard;  two  ftiexeaM  L«ro\U^  ^«s^«tic^  «o^- 
Ugbtem,  Science  leads  to  f&me ,  twelve  corner-pleceaYrj  Corri^ve^  ^T®^^^^''* 


6S  1.  h6tel  de  ville. 

iiic  the  sciences-,  abuve  Uie  duura,  Physics,  Uut&ny,  by  lMt4t;  eight  Mnels 
oil  wliicli  arb  the  Elements,  by  Jeamniot^  JUxetUy  hulwtdj  and  A.  B§rtm^ 
aud  Views  of  Paris,  by  J*.  Vauthier.  L.  Loir^  LipitUy  and  Js.  Bttrau.  B«iil|r 
turbs,  notably  the  cbimney-piece,  by  J.  J*.  Cavelier.  —  *8aloh  pbb  Ans. 
Paiutings.  On  the  ceiling:  Glorification  of  Art,  I'ruth,  and  the  IdeaL  by 
-  •  "     •      ndr       •       "     • '^      - 


Bonnat;  friezes.  Music  and  Dancing,  by  L.  Glaizt;  corner-pieces  by  i 
four  medallions  by  Rivey;  on  the  p.incls.  Painting  by  Bagnan-Bowmreli 
Music  by  Ranvier^  Sculpture  by  Layratid^  Architecture  by  T.  Robert-Flmnj^ 
and  Views  of  Paris,  by  Franqaii^  lielM^  0.  Collin^  and  LapottoUi.  —  Salom 
Ji>is,»  Letikks.  Paintings.  On  the  ceiling:  the  Muses  of  Paria,  Meditation, 
Inspiration,  by  J.  L^ebvre;  History  of  Writing,  two  friezes  by  Carmimi 
twelve  corner-pieces  by  Maignan^  representing  the  Great  Worka  of  Litera- 
ture \  four  medallions  by  Mile.  Forf/et ;  above  the  doors,  Philofopby  freeioK 
Thought,  History  gathering  the  lessons  of  the  Past,  by  U.  BonrgtfUi  Ou 
the  panels,  Eloquence,  by  H.  LeroaXy  Poetry,  by  H.  Collm^  Biatory,  by 
A'.  Thirion^  Philosophy,  by  Callot^  and  Views  of  Paris  and  the  enrlrooB, 
l)y  Bertheloti^  Guillemety  H.  SairUin^  and  Lansyer.  Sculptures  by  O.  J.  nbMMU, 
Mutably  the  chimney-piece.  —  Galekik  ve  la  Colb  no  Sun.  Sixteen  small 
(  upolas  with  paintings  of  Trades  (inscriptions),  by  Oallamd. 

The  Salon  (VArrivee  Sud,  through  which  wc  pass  to  tLe  great 
S.  staircase  and  the  exit,  contains  paintings  oi' Summer,  Winter,  etr., 
by  Fuvi$  de  CJiavannea. 

The  *EsoALi£B  n'UoNNKUB,  or  Grand  Staivctue^  is  not  shown  to  ordinary 
visitors,  but  may  be  seen  by  those  present  at  fttes  or  having  buainCM  in 
the  Cabinet  du  Pr^fet,  in  the  angle  of  the  facade  next  the  Seine.  Soulptazes: 
on  the  groundfloor,  Mounted  herald,  bronae'by  Frimiei;  Monument  oiBallii, 
tlie  architect  (bronze),  by  E.  Barricu  and  Coutan;  Justice  and  Seenrlty,  by 
Mercii  and  Delaplanche;  on  the  first  floor,  Art  and  Commerce,  by  the  Mine, 
Literature  and  Education,  by  Schoenewerk,  Sciences  and  Public  RenevoleBCe, 
by  M.  Moreau^  etc.  Paintings  by  }\kv%*  de  Chavannes:  Victor  Hugo  dedicai- 
ing  his  lyre  to  Paris  i  in  the  spandrels,  Virtues. 

In  the  Salle  de  la  Commission  du  Budget,  to  the  left  of  the  ooonefi 
hall  (p.  66)  is  an  older  painting,  the  Conquerors  of  the  BattUle,  by  F. 
Delaroche.    In  the  same  room,  the  Puddlers,  by  Rixens. 

The  Place  de  I'Hotel  -  db -Ville  (PI.  K,  23  j  V),  once  named 
Place  de  Orhve  ('bank  of  the  river'},  has  also  witnessed  many  a  tra- 
gedy. Thus  in  1572,  after  the  massacre  of  St.  Bartholomew,  Oatberine 
de  M^dicis  doomed  the  Huguenot  chiefs  Briquemont  and  Gavagnes  to 
perish  ignominlously  by  the  gallows  in  this  Place;  and  in  1574  she 
ordered  the  Comte  Montgomery,  captain  of  the  Scottish  guaid,  to  be 
executed  here  for  having  accidentally  caused  the  deatk  of  hei  hus- 
band lienri  II.  at  a  tournament  (p.  217).  From  that  period  down  to 
1780,  the  Place  de  Greve  witnessed  the  execution  of  the  numezoui 
victims  of  a  despotic  government,  as  well  as  criminals ;  and  in  the 
July  of  that  year  Foulon,  general  comptroller  of  finance,  and  his 
son-in-law  Bertier,  were  hanged  by  the  mob  oii  the  lamp-posts  of 
this  Place.  Among  the  famous  criminals  who  have  here  paid  the 
})enalty  of  their  misdeeds  are  Ravaillac,  the  assassin  of  Henri  IV. 
(1610),  the  Marquise  de  Brinvilliers  and  'La  Voisin',  the  poisonen 
(1676  and  1680),  Cartouche,  the  highwayman  (1721),  and  Damieni, 
who  attempted  to  assassinate  Louis  XV.  (1757). 

The  Place  de  rHdiel-de-Ville  is  connected  with  the  Cit^  by  the  FWl 
iVArcoh,  affording  a  view  of  the  H6tel-l>ieu  and  Notre-Dame. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Hdtel  de  Ville  begins  the  Rtc«  du  TtmpU,  an  old  »< 
Ou.iy  street,  which  pa^sses  the  Temple  ki\(\  Jw\^'^  \\w  U\\«^  ^«>  '^WT\i\%a  Mtf 
tiitf  Pluve  de  la  Kdpulilique  (p.  74). 


1.   ST.  GERVAIS.  69 

U.   FBOK  THB  HOTEL  DB  YILLE  TO  THE  BABTILLE. 
St.  Oervaifl.  St.  Paul  et  St.  Louis.  Oolonne  de  JuiUet. 

In  the  Place  Lohau  (PI.  B,  23;  V),  at  the  back  of  the  H6tel  de 
Ville,  are  the  Caserne  NapolSon^  which  can  accommodate  2500  men, 
to  the  left,  and  the  Caserne  Lohau,  to  the  right,  now  nsed  as  an  an- 
nexe of  the  H6tel  de  Yille.  On  the  N.  side  is  a  station  of  the  Metro- 
politan Railway  (Station  de  THdtel  de  Ville),  see  Appendix,  p.  33. 

The  church  of  St.  Goryais  (PI.  R,  23;  V),  or  5t.  Oervais  et  8t. 
ProtaUj  which  stands  at  the  end  of  the  Place  between  the  two 
barracks,  was  began  in  1202,  bnt  was  completely  remodelled  in  the 
i4th  cent. ;  it  now  presents  a  combination  of  the  Flamboyant  and 
Renaissance  styles.  The  portal  was  added  by  Debrosse  in  1616, 
and,  thongh  inharmonious  with  the  rest,  is  not  without  interest ;  it 
illustrates  the  Doric,  Ionic,  and  Corinthian  orders,  one  above  the 
other,  together  with  triangular  and  semicircular  pediments. 

The  Intbbiob  is  remarkable  for  its  height.  Ft.  Gervais  is  rich  in 
paintings  and  other  works  of  art,  most  of  which  are,  howeyer,  as  is  usual 
in  the  churches  of  Paris,  very  badly  lighted.  The  names  of  the  various 
chapels  are  sufficiently  explanatory  of  the  subjects  of  their  mural  paintings. 
Chapels  on  the  right  side:  3rd,  Frescoes  by  Jobbi-Duval;  4th,  by  Gendron; 
.^th  (opposite  the  altar),  Painting  by  Cottder  (St.  Ambrose  and  Theodosius) ; 
6th  A  7th  (ambulatory),  stained  glass  of  the  iPth  cent.j  8th,  Frescoes  by 
Oktize;  9th,  Mausoleum  of  Miehel  le  Tellier  (d.  1685),  minister  of  state  under 
Louis  XIV.,  by  Mcueline  and  Hurtrelle^  frescoes  by  At.  Heae  (SS.  Gervais 
and  Protais),  and  (on  the  altar)  a  Statue  of  the  Virgin  (14th  century).  The 
Lady  Chapel  has  stained-glass  windows  by  IHnaigrier  or  /.  Cousin  (i6tli  cent.), 
paintings  by  Delorme^  and  a  Madonna  by  OudifU.  The  vault  and  pendentives 
should  be  noticed.  Chapels  to  the  left  as  we  return:  1st  and  2nd,  Pieta 
by  Nanteuil  and  Cortot^  paintings  by  Norhlin  and  Ouichard;  3rd,  beyond 
the  clock- tower,  Martyrdom  of  Ste.  Juliette,  a  painting  by  Hetm^  above 
it  a  Passion  painted  on  wood,  attributed  to  Aldegrever;  7th,  Reredos  re- 
producing the  facade  of  the  church.  —  The  candelabra  and  a  bronze  cru- 
cifix on  the  high-altar  are  good  works  of  the  18th  cent,  brought  from  the 
abbey  of  Ste.  Genevieve.  The  choir-stalls  (16th  cent.)  have  fine  misericordiae. 
Above  the  stalls  of  the  clergy  is  a  medallion  of  God  the  Father,  by  Perv- 
ginOi  belonging  to  an  altar-piece  of  tbe  Ascension  (the  chief  panel  of  whit  h 
is  at  Lyons).    Organ  of  the  17th  cent.,  with  organ-loft  in  stone. 

To  the  N.  of  St.  Gervais,  behind  the  Caserne  Napoleon,  is  thQ 
small  Place  Baudoyer^  with  the  Mairie  of  the  4th  Arrondissement 
rB[6tel-de-Ville),  an  edifice  in  the  style  prevalent  at  the  end  of  the 
l6th  century.  The  Salle  des  Mariages  and  Salle  des  Fetes  are 
embellished  with  paintings  by  Oormon  and  Comerre. 

"We  here  regain  the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  which  is  succeeded  a  little 
farther  on  by  the  Rue  St,  Antoine, 

In  this  neighbourhood  are  various  ancient  buildings  of  more  or  less 
interest,  dating  from  the  period  when  this  was  the  centre  of  Paris.  Amon^ 
these  are  No.  82  in  the  Rue  Francois  Miron,  which  leads  out  of  the  Rue 
St.  Antoine  on  the  right,  and  several  o'hcrs  in  the  fame  street,  includirg; 
the  Hdtel  de  Beaurais  (No.  68),  dating  from  1665,  with  a  particularly  fine 
*Court.  The  Rue  do  Jouy  and  ihe  Rue  Geoffroy  TAsnier,  both.  iQ  W^. 
left,  also  contain  several  good  snecimens,  the  finest  Ve\T\^  VU^v  Vl^Ocv  ^^wV. 
BdUl  de  Cbalon- Luxembourg^  No.  26  in  the  latter  atreel. 

In  tbe  Ttue  St.  Antoine,  on  tbe  right,  is  tbe  ?otTt\e.T  5e%\i\^.  ^V>\xc\v 
ofgt,  Paul  et  8t  Lonia  (PL  R,  25,  26 ;  V),  etect^aL  \tv  V^'Tl-^^V  ,  \>i 


70  1.   PLACE  DE  LA  BASTILLE. 

Pere  Li  err  and.  The  handsome  late-BenaiBsance  portal  was  added  by 
Fere  Marcel  Ange,  The  dome  of  this  church  was  one  of  the  eacUeit 
in  Paris.  The  architecture  of  the  church  is  obYioualy  implied  by 
Italian  works  of  the  16th  cent.,  and  retains  the  dlatinfiilihliif 
characteristics  of  most  Jesuit  churches.  The  general  effect  is  impos- 
ing, but  the  style  is  somewhat  florid  and  the  decoration  overdone. 
The  portal  is  inferior  to  that  of  St.  Gervais.  The  naye  is  lofty  and 
the  aisles  have  galleries.  The  best  of  the  numerous  paintings  in  the 
interior  is  a  Christ  in  the  Garden,  an  early  work  of  Eug,  D^aeroto 
{ 1819),  in  the  left  transept.  —  The  building  behind,  to  the  right, 
formerly  a  Jesuit  college,  is  now  the  Lycie  CharUmagnt, 

A  short  difltanee  from  this  church,  to  the  N.,  is  the  Bue  da  Bol^^a* 
Sicile  (PI.  R,  28  \  F),  once  containing  the  famous  Priton  de  la  /Inim,  ta 
which  the  ^Septembriseurs*  committed  their  assassinations  in  ITBS. 

In  the  Bue  S^vign^,  which  begins  opposite  the  church  of  St.  Paul,  is 
the  Musde  Carnavalet  (p.  213). 

On  the  left  in  the  Rue  St.  Antoine,  No.  143,  is  the  old  H6tel 
de  B^ihune  or  de  SuUy^  built  in  the  16th  cent,  for  Maximilien  de 
H^thune,  better  known  as  the  Due  de  Sully  and  minister  of  HenrilY. 
The  architect  was  either  Jacques  Androuet  du  Oerceau  or  his  son, 
Jean  Baptiste.  The  facades  in  the  court  are  adorned  with  elaborate 
sculptures,  including  large  bas-reliefs  of  the  seasons,  etc.  —  Beyond 
the  Rue  de  Birague,  which  leads  to  the  Place  des  Yosges  (a  little 
farther  on ,  to  the  left),  is  the  Hdtel  de  Mayenne  or  d'OmsMon, 
Rue  St.  Antoine  212,  built  by  J.  du  Gerceau. 

Farther  on  in  the  Rue  St.  Antoine,  to  the  right,  is  the  OalTinist 
Egliae  de  la  Visitation  or  Temple  Ste.  Marie,  constructed  in  the  17th 
tent,  by  Fr.  Mansart  for  a  convent  of  Visltandine  nuns.  Then,  to 
the  left,  is  a  Statue  of  Beaumarchaia  (1732-99) ,  the  author,  by 
Chausade  (1897).  —  The  Rue  St.  Antoine  terminates  in  the  Plaee 
de  la  Bastille  (station  of  the  Metropolitan  Railway  j  see  Appx.,  p.  83). 

The  Place  de  la  Bastille  (PI.  R,  25;  V),  or  simply  La  BoimU, 
as  it  is  usually  called,  was  formerly  the  site  of  the  BaatiUeSi,  Antoine, 
a  castle  which  was  left  standing  when  the  boulevards  were  leToUed 
in  1670  (p.  72).  This  stronghold,  which  was  erected  in  1371-83 
by  Kings  Charles  Y.  and  YI.,  was  afterwards  used  as  a  state-prison, 
chiefly  for  the  confinement  of  persons  of  rank  who  had  fallen  -vicdms 
to  the  intrigues  of  the  court  or  the  caprice  of  the  government,  and 
attained  a  world-wide  celebrity  in  consequence  of  its  destmotioii 
on  14th  July,  1789,  at  the  beginning  of  the  French  BeYolatioii. 
—  A  line  drawn  on  the  ground  in  1880  between  the  Boulevard 
Henri  lY.  and  the  Rue  St.  Antoine,  indicates  the  exact  site  of  the 
fortress  so  far  as  it  is  not  now  built  over. 

'With  its  massive  walls,   10  ft.   in  thickness ,  and  its  eight  heavy, 

sombre  towers,  it  rose  just  at  the  entrance  of  the  city;  and  the  saaaos 

on  its  battlementB  commanded  the  adjoining  suburb  of  8t.. Antoine,  Iks 

i/uarter  occupied   by  the  artlzan  claaaea.   1\  loTm^^  \\i«  atanding  eoiBl* 

.-^Hnce  of  despotic  power  under  the  old  luonwctvi ,  wv^  "^TCMsiiXAi^  %  ^ 

flabJe  bArrier  to  the  advanuing  tide  ol  the  "Re^oVwWoTi.   "Eit^  Vrai%^ 


1.    COLONNE  DE  JUILLET.  71 

fore,  tbe  popular  desire  for  independence,  coincidin{;  with  the  designs  of 
the  demagoguM,  raised  the  cry,  which  speedily  resounded  throughout  the 
whole  of  Paris.  —  Down  with  the  Bastille !  Notwithstanding  the  moats, 
the  walls,  andf  the  guns  with  which  the  castle  was  defended,  the  exe- 
cution of  the  scheme  presented  no  great  difficulty.  The  garrison  con- 
sisted of  138  men,  one^third  of  whom  were  Inyalides ;  their  proyisions 
consisted  of  a  couple  of  sacks  of  flour ;  they  were  unable  to  prevent  the 
stoppage  of  their  supply  of  water ;  and  all  hope  of  aid  from  without  was 
cut  off.  From  the  suburbs  an  interminable  multitude  of  armed  men 
converged  towards  the  entrance;  and  from  the  city  came  several  com- 
panies of  the  regiments  which  had  gone  over  to  the  BevoluUon ,  headed 
by  the  French  guards.  De  Launay,  the  commandant,  however,  refused 
to  capitulate ,  and  the  struggle  began.  A  number  of  the  citizens ,  with 
reckless  bravery,  succeeded  in  cutting  the  chains  of  the  drawbridge,  and 
the  first  court  of  the  castle  was  speedily  taken;  but  to  the  excessive 
exasperation  of  the  assailants  their  attack  on  the  second  court  was 
repulsed  with  great  loss.  The  courage  of  the  garrison  was  now  exhausted. 
The  Invalides  desired  to  capitulate,  and  De  Launay,  who  had  been  pre- 
vented by  his  officers  from  blowing  up  the  castle  and  its  inmates ,  let 
down  the  second  bridge  on  being  promised  a  free  retreat.  The  victorious 
crowd  inunediately  poured  into  the  ancient  building,  some  of  them 
enthusiastic  in  the  cause  of  Liberty,  others  bent  on  murder  and  destruc- 
tion. The  lives  of  the  garrison  were  now  in  great  jeopardy.  The  French 
guards  succeeded  with  difficulty  in  saving  the  common  soldiers*,  but  De 
Launay  and  his  officers ,  in  spite  of  the  long  and  heroic  attempts  of  the 
leaders  of  the  populace  to  protect  them,  were  slain ,  and  their  heads  cut 
off  as  trophies\  —  H.  von  Spbel^  Period  of  the  Revolution. 

Some  of  the  stones  of  the  Bastille  were  afterwards  employed  in  the 
construction  of  the  Pont  de  la  Concorde.  The  Place  is  also  a  noted  spot 
in  the  annals  of  two  subsequent  revolutions.  In  June,  1848,  the  insur- 
gents erected  their  strongest  barricade  at  the  entrance  to  the  Rue  du  Fan- 
bourg-St-Antoine,  to  the  £.  of  the  Place  ^  and  it  was  only  with  the  aid 
of  heavy  artillery  that  this  barrier  was  demolished.  On  25th  June,  the 
third  day  of  the  contest,  ArcMishop  Affre  (p.  226),  while  exhorting  the 
people  to  peace,  was  killed  by  an  insurgents  ball.  In  May,  1871,  the 
flite  of  the  Bastille  was  one  of  the  last  strongholds  of  the  Communists,  by 
whom  every  egress  of  the  Place  had  been  formidably  barricaded ,  but  it 
was  captured  after  a  desperate  struggle  by  the  Versailles  troops  on  the 
25th  of  the  month. 

The  Colonne  de  Jidllet,  which  now  adorns  the  Place,  by  Alavoint 
and  Dmc,  was  erected  in  1831-40  In  honour  of  the  heroes  who  fell 
in  the  Revolution  of  July,  1830.  The  total  height  of  the  monument 
is  154  ft. ,  and  it  rests  on  a  massive  round  substructure  of  white 
marble ,  originally  intended  for  a  colossal  fountain  in  the  form  of 
an  elephant  contemplated  by  Napoleon  I.  for  this  site.  On  this  rises 
a  square  basement,  on  each  side  of  which  are  six  bronze  medallions 
symbolical  of  Justice,  tbe  Constitution,  Strength,  and  Freedom,  and 
on  the  basement  Is  placed  the  pedestal  of  the  column.  On  the  W. 
side  of  the  pedestal  is  represented  a  bronze  lion  in  relief  (the  astro- 
nomical symbol  of  July),  by  "Baryt  (d.  1875),  under  which  is  the 
inscription;  on  the  E.  side  are  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  city 
and  the  dates  of  the  decrees  sanctioning  the  erection  of  the  column ; 
on  the  N.  and  S.  sides  are  the  dates  of  the  conflicts  In  which  the 
*July  heroes'  fell.  At  each  of  the  four  corners  Is  seetv  \\vft  Ql^WXr.  ^<!>0«. 
holding  garlands.  The  column  Itself  is  of  "bioivie  ,  V^lt,  \xv  VXx\R>f-- 
ness^  s^nd  Anted.  It  is  divided  by  four  bands  into  IBln^  s>e^VViTi^  ^  ^"^ 
wliJeh  tbe  names  of  the  fallen  (615)  aie  emblai-oive^  \^  ^\\^^^^^'^- 


72  1.    BOULEVARDS. 

ters.  The  capital  is  suimouuted  by  a  kind  of  lantern,  crowned  witk 
the  Genius  of  Liberty  standing  on  a  globe,  by  J.  Dumont  fd.  iS^). 

The  Intbbiob  (adm.  gratis)  contains  an  excellent  staircase  of  38B  flefi 
leading  to  the  top,  where  a  fine  view  is  enjoyed. 

The  Vaults  (fee),  to  which  a  visit  may  also  be  paid,  oonslit  af  two 
chambers .  each  containing  a  sarcophagus ,  40  ft  in  length  and  7  ft.  li 
width,  with  the  remains  of  the  fallen,  in  the  same  recepiaeleg  mn 
afterwards  placed  the  victims  of  the  Revolution  of  Febmary ,  IMiS.  Ii 
May,  1871,  during  the  Ck>mmunist  reign  of  terror,  these  vanlto  ware  flll^ 
with  gunpowder  and  combustibles  by  the  insuxgents  for  Uie  purpose  of 
blowing  up  the  column  and  converting  the  whole  neighbourhood  lalo  a 
heap  of  ruins.  The  powder,  however,  was  afterwards  withdrawn  tor  use 
in  tile  defence  of  the  Place  (see  p.  7i),  so  that  no  serious  damage  waa  done. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Place  de  laBlistille  is  the  wide  BouUvardBMard 
Lenoir  (PI.  R  26, 27),  running  above  the  Caned  8t,  Martin^  wUeh  is 
vaulted  over  for  a  distance  of  nearly  1^4  M.,  and  is  lighted  by  metni 
of  shafts  among  the  shrubberies  in  the  boulevard.  To  the  left  of 
this  bouloTard  are  the  Boulevard  BeaumarchaU^  which  we  follow, 
and  the  Rue  8t,  Antoine^  leading  to  the  Rue  de  RIyoU  (p.  61).  To 
the  S.W.,  at  the  end  of  the  Boulevard  Henri  IV.  rp.2l8),  In  the 
distance,  rise  the  fine  dome  of  the  Pantheon  (p.  240)  and  the  tow- 
ers of  the  churches  of  St.  Etienne  du  Mont  and  Ste.  Genetilre. 
Farther  to  the  left,  in  the  old  moat  of  the  Bastille,  is  the  Oare  de 
l^  Arsenal,  a  basin  of  the  Canal  St.  Martin,  which  here  joins  the  Seine 
opposite  the  Jardin  des  Plantes  (p.  264);  then,  to  the  S.E.,  the  Oare 
de  Vincennes  (p.  26),  and  the  Rue  du  Fauhourg'St-Antoine  (p.  800). 
—  Omnibuses  and  tramways,  comp.  Plans  in  the  Appendix.  Re- 
staurants, see  p.  18. 

III.  THE  BOULEVARDS  FROM  THE  BASTILLE  TO  TEB  HADBLBIVE. 

Place  de  la  Bipublique.   Fortes  St.  Kartin  and  St.  Denis.    The  Opira. 

The  omnibus  (Line  E)  may,  in  case  of  fatigue,  be  taken  from  ths 
Bastille  as  far  as  the  Place  de  la  B^pnhlique,  or  the  whole  way.  Best 
view  from  the  top,  on  the  right  side. 

The  Booleyarda  of  Paris  are  divided  into  four  classes :  the  Old 
or  Inner  Boulevards,  the  Outer  Boulevards,  the  New  Bonleraidi, 
and  the  Boulevards  d'Enceinte  or  Lines. 

(1)  The  Old  or  Inner  Boulevards  ('B.  Inttfrleurs*)  derived  their 
name  from  having  been  constructed  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  boulevards  ('bulwarks')  oi  fortiflcations,  whidi 
formerly  surrounded  the  city.  They  are  divided  by  the  Seine  Into  a 
northern  and  a  southern  half.  The  northern  half,  the  'Bouleraids 
Int^rieurs  du  Nord',  or  'Chreat  Bouleyards',  commonly  known  par 
excellence  as  ^The  Boulevards',  extend  in  a  semicircle  from  the  Bastille 
(PI.  R,  25 ;  V)  to  the  Madeleine  (PI.  R,  18 ;  //),  a  distance  of  21/, M., 
and  are  never  less  than  33  yds.  in  width.  These  Boulevards  consist  of 
the  following  11  subdivisions:  Boulevard Beaumarchais,  B.  deBFilies-' 
du-Calvaire,  B.  du  Temple,  B.  St.  Martin,  B.  St.  Denis,  B.  Bonne- 
NonveUe,  B.  Poissonnifere,  B.  Montmartre,  B.  des  Italiens,  B.  del 
Cspnrfnes,  B.  de  /aMadelpiiic.  Tbo.  moT^  \«jfts\<'T\^  c)l  VXv^^^\\K^Qiln| 


i.   BOULEVARDS.  73 

streets  are  nowhere  surpassed  in  the  briskness  of  their  traffic  and  the 
attractiyeness  of  their  shops.  The  Great  Bonleyards  are  continaed  on 
the  left  bank  by  the  Boulevard  St.  Germain.  —  The  'Boulevards 
Int^rieurs  du  Sud\  forming  the  southern  half,  extend  in  another 
semicircle  (472  M.  long)  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine ,  from  the 
Pont  d*Austerlitz  to  the  Pont  des  Invalides ,  but  are  now  scarcely 
distinguished  from  the  following. 

(2)  The  Outer  Boulevards  (*B.  Ext^rieurs*),  originally  skirting 
the  octroi  wall  of  Louis  XVI.,  still  retain  their  name,  though  it  has 
been  less  appropriate  since  1860,  when  the  suburban  districts  (han- 
lieue)  were  annexed  to  Paris.  The  northern  line  of  these,  from  the 
Pont  de  Bercy  to  the  Trocadtfro,  is  9^/4  M.  long,  while  the  southern 
half,  also  beginning  at  the  Pont  de  Bercy,  but  uniting  at  places  with 
the  old  Boulevards  Int^rieurs,  is  5^2  ^*  ^n  length. 

(3)  The  New  Boulevards  (^Nouveaux  B.')  have  been  laid  out 
since  1852.  Of  these  the  most  important  are  the  following :  —  B. 
de  Strasbourg,  B.  de  S^astopol,  B.  St.  Michel,  B.  de  Magenta,  B. 
Voltaire,  B.  St.  Germain,  and  B.  Haussmann.  With  this  class  of 
Boulevards,  which  have  no  connection  with  'bulwarks'  or  forti- 
fications either  ancient  or  modern,  may  be  ranked  numerous  Avenuesy 
such  as  the  Avenues  deVOp^ra,  des  Champs-Elys^es,  de  Friedland, 
Hoche,  Wagram,  de  la  Grande-Arm^e,  du  Bois  de  Boulogne,  Mala- 
koff,  Victor  Hugo,  Kl^er,  d'ltfna ,  Marceau ,  du  Trocad^ro ,  Henri 
Martin,  de  I'Alma,  Montaigne,  d*Antin,  de  Suffren,  de  la  Bourdon- 
nais,  Rapp,  Bosquet,  delaMotte-Picquet,  Victoria,  delaR^publique, 
des  Gobelins,  and  Daumesnil. 

(4)  The  Boiiievardt  d^ Enceinte ^  skirting  the  inside  of  the  present  wall  of 
Paris,  ti^e'the  place  of  the  former  military  road  which  was  divided  into 
19  sections. 

Many  of  the  boulevards,  as  well  as  some  of  the  avenues  and  other 
principal  streets,  are  paved  with  wood.  The  side-walks  for  foot 
passengers  are  of  asphalt.  The  trees  with  which  the  boulevards  and 
many  important  thoroughfares  are  flanked  are  a  source  of  constant 
trouble  to  the  municipal  authorities,  being  frequently  killed  by  the 
gas.  When  dead  they  are  skilfully  replaced  by  full-grown  substitutes, 
and  gaps  are  very  seldom  visible. 

A  Walk  along  the  Great  Boulevards,  from  the  Place  de  la 
R^publique  to  the  Madeleine  will  be  found  both  interesting  and  in- 
structive by  the  visitor  to  Paris.  The  streets  are  least  crowded  be- 
tween 9  a.m.  and  midday,  but  the  brilliantly  lighted  shops  and  caf^s 
add  to  the  interest  in  the  evening.  In  the  afternoun  the  top  of  an 
omnibus  (taking  ^2  ^^-  *o  traverse  the  boulevards)  is  a  good  point 
of  observation.  The  traffic  is  immense,  especially  at  the  ends  of  thn 
Boulevard  Montmartre,  the  Place  de  I'Optfra,  and  other  points  where 
the  streets  intersect  (comp.  p.  77).  At  several  of  the  crossings  're- 
fuges' have  been  erected  for  pedestrians,  aivd  t\ie.  ^oWr.^  ^x^\»\x^ 
ducing  the  London  system  of  arresting  the  tTa^fL.c  Uora.  \.Vc£\^^v>  Wxsvs*. 

The  principal  Caf^s  and   Brasstrit^  (pp.  *10,  *XV>|  ^\vi^  cV^^^'5. 


74  1.   bOULBVAKDR. 

outside  their  dooi8  in  summer,  wliencc  customers  may  soxTey  the 
busy  passing  throng  at  their  leisure.  —  Restauranta,  pp.  16,  21; 
Theatres,  pp.  33-36;  Shopa,  p.  39. 

The  small  glass  stalls  where  newspapers  and  flowers  are  sold,  aad 
which  are  also  coyered  with  advertisements,  are  caUed  *Klo»q%i§t''.  Baridcs 
these  there  are  offices  for  the  regulation  of  the  cabs,  pillars  eorered  with 
theatrical  announcements,  etc.  Chairs  are  placed  for  hire  (cAotfM  lOe.)  in 
the  broadest  parts  of  the  boulevards ;  there  arc  also  numerous  bandies  for 
the  free  use  of  the  public. 

The  Bouleyard  Beanmarohaid  (PI.  R,  26 ;  Illy  V),  named  alter 
Oaron  de  Beaumarchais  (p.  70),  who  owned  a  considerable  part  of 
the  E.  side  of  the  street,  is  the  longest  of  the  Great  Boulevaids,  being 
820  yds.  in  length.  To  the  left  diverges  the  Rue  des  Yosget,  lead- 
ing to  the  Place  of  that  name  (p.  217). 

The  Rue  St.  Claude,  also  diverging  from  the  Boulevard  to  tha  left, 
leads  to  the  church  of  St.  Denii  du  Saint-Sacrement,  in  the  Rue  da  Torenne. 
The  church,  an  unimportant  edifice  in  the  neo-classic  stvle  dating  from 
1828-35,  contains  a  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Bug.  Delacroix  On  the  ehapel 
to  the  right  of  the  entrance),  a  fine  statue  of  Ste.  Genevieve  by  PtrrmiiA 
(1868),  and  paintings  in  the  choir  by  A.  de  Pvjol. 

The  Boulevard  dea  FiUes-dn-Calvaire  (PI.  R,  26;  III),  wliich 
adjoins  the  Boulevard  Beaumarchais,  is  230  yds.  long  and  derives 
its  name  from  an  ancient  nunnery.  At  its  N.  end,  to  the  right,  is 
the  Cirque  cfHiver  (p.  36). 

The  Bonlevard  du  Temple  (PI.  R,  27 ;  III),  440 yds.  in  length, 
is  named  from  its  proximity  to  the  old  Temple  quarter  (p.  210).  It 
was  at  one  time  the  fashionable  promenade  of  the  citizena,  wlien  the 
centre  of  Paris  lay  more  to  the  E.  than  at  present,  and  contained  nu- 
merous theatres  (comp.  the  paintings  in  the  Mus^e  Camavalet,p.216). 

No.  42.  situated  at  a  bend  of  the  street,  occupies  the  site  of  the  hous* 
from  which  Fieschi  on  28th  July,  1886,  discharged  his  infernal  maehlae 
at  Louis  Philippe.  The  king  escaped  unhurt,  but  Marshal  Mortler  Mid 
fourteen  other  persons  were  killed. 

The  Boulevard  du  Temple  terminates  in  the  *Plaee  de  la  lU- 
pablique,  formerly  called  the  Place  duChdteaU'd'EaufPhn^*:^^!!!)^ 
one  of  the  finest  squares  in  Paris  (310  yds.  long).  The  centre  if 
embellished  with  a  bronze  Statue  of  (he  RepubliCj  by  the  brotheis 
Morice,  erected  in  1883,  which  is  32  ft.  high  to  the  top  of  the  ohTe- 
branch.  The  stone  pedestal,  50  ft.  in  height,  is  surrounded  with 
seated  bronze  figures  of  Liberty,  Equality,  and  Fraternity,  and  adorn- 
ed with  12  bas-reliefs  in  bronze,  by  Dalou :  Taking  the  oatli  in  the 
Jeu  de  Paume ;  Capture  of  the  Bastille;  Renunciation  of  privileges; 
Festival  of  the  Federation ;  Volunteers  enrolling ;  Battle  of  Valmy; 
Meeting  of  the  Constituent  Assembly;  Combat  of  the  Tengenr'; 
Resumption  of  the  tricolor  in  1830;  Provisional  Government  of 
1848;  September  4th,  1870;  National  Fete,  July  14th,  1880.  In 
front  is  a  bronze  lion  with  the  urn  of  ^suffrage  universel'. 

Streets  diverge  from  the  Place  de  la  Rdpuhliqne  in  every  dlreetioB. 

To  the  8.K.  is  the  Boulevard  Voltaire  (p.  179);  to  the  E.  runs  the  ilMMH 

^^  fa  JUpuhlique^  leading:  to  the  Pere-Lachaisc  (p.  170)^    to  the  ITJE.  the 

/lf4£  du  Faubouvg-du-TemfXe  leat\s  \x\  "Uc\\eN'U\e  Vv-  'iJ^*i^^  wv^  U  iraTened 

>*y  9  cttiile-tramwRy  (10  c).     Al  \Vni  vo\\\\.  \N\\*i\^i  \\.  c.To%*t%  >fc^^  ^nii 


1.    BOULEVARDS.  75 

St.  Martin  is  a  bust  of  Frid.  Lemaitre  (1800-76),  the  author,  by  (xranet.  To 
the  N.W.  diyerges  the  Boulevard  d€  Magenta,  which  leads  past  the  Gare 
de  rSst  and  the  Oare  du  Kord  (p.  24)  to  Montmartre.  To  the  8.W.  are 
the  old  Sue  du  3VmpI«,  leading  to  the  H6tel  de  Ville,  and  the  wide  Bue 
de  TurHgOy  more  to  the  right,  descending  to  the  Hallea  Centrales  (p.  173). 
Between  the  Bool.  Uagenta  (to  the  left)  and  the  Bool.  St.  Martin  is 
the  Bourse  du  Travail,  erected  in  1889-90  by  the  oity  of  Paris,  and  placed 
at  the  disposal  of  the  trade  councils  ('syndicats  professionnels''),  with  a 
view  to  superseding  the  private  'registry*  offices. 

Beyond  the  Place  de  la  B^pubb'que  we  next  reach  the  Boulevard 
St.  Martin  (Pi.  R,  27,  24;  III),  490  yds.  long.  The  cairiage-way 
was  lowered  in  1845,  to  facilitate  traffic ,  while  the  foot-pavements 
retain  their  original  height.  Several  theatres  (see  p.  34)  are  situated 
on  the  right  side  of  this  boulevard,  vis.  the  Opira  PopukLtre^  Ambigu- 
Cormque^  Thidtre  de  la  PorUSt,  Martin,  and  TMdtre  de  laBenaistance. 

The  Porte  St.  ]Iartin.(Pl.  R,  24;  ///),  a  triumphal  arch,  with 
three  openings,  57ft.  in  height,  designed  by  Pierre  Bullet,  was 
erected  by  the  city  in  honour  of  Louis  XIY.  in  1674.  The  reliefs, 
on  the  S.  side  by  Le  Hongre  and  LegroB  the  Elder  and  on  the  N.  side 
by  M,  Dujardins  and  Q.  Many,  represent  the  Capture  of  Besan^on, 
the  Capture  of  Limburg,  and  the  defeat  of  the  Germans,  Spaniards, 
and  Dutch.  On  31st  March,  1814,  the  German  and  Russian  armies 
entered  Paris  by  the  Barridre  de  Pantin  and  the  Rue  du  Faubourg- 
St-Martin,  and  passed  through  the  Porte  St.  Martin  and  the  Boule- 
vards to  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  (p.  82). 

The  *Mairie  of  the  10th  Arrondissement  (PI.  R,  24;  ///)  with  its  con- 
spicuous tower,  in  the  Bue  du  Faubourg-St-Martin ,  about  9(X)yd8.  from 
the  Porte,  is  a  tasteful  structure  of  1892-96,  designed  by  E.  Bouyer  in  a 
Renaissance  style  not  unlike  that  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville.  In  the  interior, 
the  staircase  and  the  gallery  in  three  stories  may  be  mentioned.  The  Salle 
des  FStes,  on  the  first  floor,  to  the  back,  contains  a  large  alto-relief  by 
Dalou,  representing  the  brotherhood  of  nations. 

Beyond  the  Porte  St.  Martin  begins  the  short  Boulevard  St.  De- 
nie  (PI.  R,  24 ;  III),  230  yds.  in  length. 

The  handsome  streets  which  diverge  here  to  the  right  and  left 
are  the  BouUvardB  de  Strasbourg  and  de  Sibastopol,  which ,  con- 
tinued on  the  S.  by  theBoul.  du  Palais  (p.  220)  and  Boul.  St.  Michel 
(p.  228),  intersect  Paris  from  the  Gare  deTEst  (p.  200)  on  theN.  to 
the  Observatoire  (p.  286)  on  the  S.,  a  distance  of  2^2  M.  At  the 
end  of  the  Boulevard  de  Strasbourg,  to  the  right,  is  the  Gare  de 
TEst.  To  the  left,  at  the  end  of  the  Boulevard  de  S^astopol,  rises 
the  dome  of  the  Tribunal  de  Commerce  (p.  223).  About  200  yds.  to 
the  left  of  this  boulevard  is  the  Square  des  Arts  et  Mitiers,  in  front 
of  the  Conservatoire  of  that  name  (p.  175). 

We  now  reach  the  Forte  St.  Denis,  another  triumphal  arch,  de- 
signed by  Blondel ,  with  sculptures  by  the  brothers  Anguier  from 
the  designs  of  Girardon,  and  erected  two  years  before  the  Porte  St. 
Martin,  to  commemorate  the  victories  of  Louis XW.  itv'BLQ^vci^  ^w^ 
the  district  of  the  Lower  Rhine.    It  is  81  ft.  \i\g\i  aiv^V^^  «*  ««!i^^ 
MTchway.    The  piers  are  adorned  with  two  obeWeYa  \iv  leW^i^^^^^^'^ 


76  I.  BOULEVARDS. 

with  military  trophiep.  At  the  bases  of  the  obelisks  are  represented, 
on  the  left,  vanquished  Batavia  (Holland]  ^ith  a  dead  lion,  and  on 
the  right  the  river-god  of  the  Rhine.  The  relief  abOTe  the  nth.  on 
the  same  side  represents  the  Passage  of  the  Rhine  la  1672;  the 
relief  on  the  other  side,  the  Capture  of  Maestricht.  Nearly  ell  tbe 
sculptures  were  restored  in  1886-87. 

Both  these  triumphal  arches  were  the  scene  of  sanguinary  con- 
flicts in  July,  1830,  June,  1848,  and  May,  1871. 

The  Porte  St.  Denis  stands  between  the  Rue  8t.  Denis  and  the 
Rue  du  Fauhourg-St-DeniSy  together  forming  one  of  the  moat  an- 
cient, and  still  one  of  the  most  important  lines  of  streets  in  Paris. 
As  we  proceed  westwards  the  traffic  becomes  brisker,  and  the  shops 
more  handsomely  built  and  richly  stocked. 

The  continuation  of  the  Boulevard  St.  Denis  is  the  Bonlerard 
Bonne-NouyeUe  (PI.  R,  24;  IIT),  which  is  380  yds.  in  length.  On 
the  right  are  the  new  premises  of  La  Minaglre  (p.  40},  the  Rerttm- 
rant  Marguery  (p.  17),  and  the  Thi&tre  du  Oymruue  (p.  33),  The 
Rue  d'Hauteville,  at  the  end  of  which  the  church  of  St.  Yineent- 
(ie-Paul  (p.  203)  is  seen,  diverges  on  the  same  side. 

The  ancient  streets  to  the  left  of  the  boulevard  lead  in  a  few  ninnies 
to  Notre-Dame-de-Bonne-Nouvelle,  a  church  of  the  17th  and  i9tti  cent.,  of 
little  interest  in  itself,  but  containing  a  handsome  large  marble  groupin 
high  relief  hy  Ch.  Dpitre.rgnan,  representing  tbe  Memory  of  the  Dead  (1B66; 
in  the  iirst  chapel  on  the  right).  The  large  chapel  of  the  Virfin,  to  the 
loft  of  the  Tiavo,  is  painted  in  fresco  by  Aiig.  Hesse. 

At  the  point  where  the  Rue  du  Faubourg- Poisaonnibre  dlTergcs 
to  the  right  and  the  Rue  Poiasonnilre  to  the  left,  begins  the  Boule- 
vard FoisBonni^re  (PI.  R,  21 ;  III),  which  is  also  380  yds.  long. 

In  the  Rue  du  Faubourg-Poissonni^re,  No.  15,  is  the  Contervth 
toire  de  Musique  et  de  Diclamation  (PI.  B,  21,  24;  ///),  whieb, 
however,  is  about  to  bo  removed  elsewhere.  The  Oonserratoire, 
founded  in  1784  for  the  purpose  of  training  singers  and  actors  for 
the  national  stage,  has  a  teaching-staff  of  over  70  and  about  760 
pupils.  Pupils  are  admitted  by  competition  and  receive  their  train- 
ing gratuitously.  Winners  of  the  Orand  Prix  are  awarded  an  annntl 
allowance  of  about  4000  fr.  for  four  years,  during  which  they  "visit 
Italy  and  Germany  for  the  purpose  of  perfecting  themselves  in  their 
art.  The  most  distinguished  students  are  entitled  to  an  engagement 
ill  one  of  the  subsidized  theatres.  The  Conservatoire  possesses  s 
valuable  Collection  of  Musical  Instruments  and  an  extensive  Jtfusietfl 
Lihrary.    Concerts,  see  p.  37. 

The  Oollection  of  Kusical  Instruments,  in  the  second  court,  aesi 
the.  Rue  du  Conservatoire,  from  which  it  may  be  entered,  ia  open  to  vlP* 
itors  on  Mon.  and  Thurs.,  12-4.  It  contains  numerous  instruments  remark* 
able  for  their  antiquity,  rarity,  excellence,  artistic  beauty,  or  historical 
a-^sociatiuns.    Tbe  glass-cases  in  the  centre  contain  the  finest  InstmiaflBta 

A  little  farther  on,  at  the  comer  of  the  short  Rue  Ste.  C^eile  aad  tt* 

Hue  du  Conservatoire,  is  the  church  of  St.  Eugene,  a  Gothic  edifice,  ImiH 

in   186A-55  from  the   designs  of  L.  A.  Boileau.    The  interior  ts  snppovlli 

hy  eHut-imn  c.nlnmns  and  ia  emhwAAlnhed.  \v\\\v  \)vAt\Wt\^*  mv^  «ta{nedg1ail 

in  the  ntylfi  of  the  13th  century. 


1.   BOULEVARDS.  77 

Farther  on,  to  the  right  of  the  Boulevard,  diverges  the  small  Ruf 
de  Rougemontf  at  the  end  of  which  is  seen  the  Compioir  National 
cTEBcompte,  rebuilt  in  1882-83.  Its  facade,  surmounted  by  a  dome 
with  a  small  spire,  has  a  fine  doorway  in  the  form  of  a  triumphal 
arch,  decorated  with  symbolic  statues  by  A.  Millet. 

On  the  right  of  the  Boulevard  Poissouniftre,  No.  30,  is  the  at- 
tractive shop  of  Barhedienne  ^  Co.^  dealers  in  bronzes  (p.  41);  on 
the  left  is  the  Cafi- Concert  Parisiana  (p.  36). 

At  the  point  where  the  Rue  Montmartre  diverges  to  the  left 
and  the  Rue  du  Faubourg- Montmartre  to'  the  right,  we  reach  the 
Bonleyard  Kontmartre  (PI.  K,  21 ;  111),  which  is  235  yds.  in 
length.  The  point  where  these  three  streets  intersect,  called  the 
Carrefour  Montmartre^  is  perhaps  the  busiest  in  Paris. 

At  Ko.  3,  Rue  Feydeau,  to  the  right  of  the  Rue  Montmartre,  is  the 
0/fi^  National  de  Commerce  ^  established  to  facilitate  and  encourage  the 
intercourse  uf  French  manufacturers  and  merchanttt  with  foreign  couit- 
tries.  —  Beyond  the  Rue  Feydeau  begins  the  Ene  Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, 
which  passes  behind  the  Exchange  (p.  1^).  The  Bue  Montmartre  ends  at 
the  HaUes  Centrales  (p.  172).  ' 

On  the  left  stands  the  Thidtre  des  VariiUa  (p.  34).  On  the  samt* 
side  is  the  Passage  des  Panoramas,  and  opposite  to  it  the  Passage    * 
Jouffroy. 

On  the  left,  farther  on,  the  Rue  Vivienne  diverges  to  the  (3min.) 
Bourse  (p.  193)  and  the  Palais-Royal  (p.  60).  —  The  Boul.  Mont- 
martre ends  at  the  Rue  de  Richelieu  (p.  186)  and  the  Rue  Vrouot 

(p.  i^y 

The  •Boulevard  des  ItaUens  (PI.  R,  21 ;  111,  It),  465  yds.  in 
length,  which  we  next  enter,  is  the  most  frequented  and  fashion- 
able of  the  boulevards.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  old  Theatre 
des  Italiens.  —  Near  the  beginning,  on  the  right  (N.),  is  the  double 
Passage  de  I'Opira  (now  almost  desertedl  so  named  from  the  old 
opera-house,  burned  down  in  October,  1873,  which  stood  at  the  N. 
end.  To  the  left  of  the  Boulevard  is  the  Passage  des  Princes,  lead- 
ing to  the  Bue  de  Richelieu. 

Farther  on  are  the  Rue  Favart  and  the  Rue  Marivaux,  between 
which  is  the  Opira  Comique  (PI.  R,  21,  11;  p.  33).  The  theatre, 
which  was  burned  in  1887,  was  rebuilt  in  1893-98,  by  Bemier. 
with  its  facade  in  the  Place  Boieldieu,  as  before.  The  caryatides  and 
nrnamental  heads  on  the  exterior  are  by  Allar,  O,  Michel,  and  Pey- 
not.  In  niches  are  statues  of  Poesy  and  Music  by  Guilbert  and  Puech. 

Inside,  at  the  foot  of  the  staircase,  are  marble  statues  of  Lyric  Oju'ia 
and  Comic  Opera,   by  Falffviere  and  Merci&.     The  ceiling-painting  in  the 
auditorium,   by  Benj,  Corutant^   represents^  the  chief  ilgures  in  the  operas 
performed  here  (Carmen,  Manon  Lescaut,  Mignon,  Lothario,  etc.),   above 
which  are  Harmony,  Poetry,   Song,  and  Glory.    On  the  two  grand  stair 
cases  are  panels  by  L.  0.  Merton  (Poetry,  Husic,   Song,   £legy.  Hymn) 
and  Fr.  Fkanaig  (Ballet,  Tragedy,  Satirical  Comedy)     The  decorations  lu 
the  veatibule  of  the  foyer  are  by  Jot.  Blanc.    The  ce\Ux\\£-v«tvc^VA'5^?,  ^'a.  VJu^e. 
foyer  is  by  Albert  Maignan  ('La  Bonde  des  Notes).   In  Ux^  a.^^cv\TvY[v\j,  To^awv-?. 
vtt  paintings  hy  Raph.  Collin  (Inspiration ,   Truth    aiv\ma.\\rk^  V•\^iWv>^\^  ^>^^ 
Twdouef  (Musical  Psstoial  of  the  13th  cent     Glotif^tatioik.  ot  'tt^^%^«^• 


78  1.  OPERA  HOUSE. 

Oil  the  right  of  tbe  Boulttvard,  I'artlier  uu,  are  the  Rue  Le  Pelctfer, 
where  Orsini  attempted  to  assassinate  Napoleon  III.  in  180b,  ahA 
the  Rues  LaffitU,  TcUtbout^  and  de  la  Chauttie-d^AnUn,  At  the 
corner  of  the  Rue  Le  Peletier  is  the  *Cafi  Riche  (p.  14),  rebuilt  in 
1897-99  in  the  style  of  Lonis  XV.  On  the  same  side,  at  the  eoner 
of  the  Rne  Laffltte,  is  the  Maison  Doric  Restaurant,  witli  intarestlnf 
i^cnlptures ;  at  the  end  of  this  street  is  the  church  of  Notre-Dime- 
de-Lorette  (p.  195),  heyond  which  a  glimpse  is  obtained  of  the 
Butte  Montmartre  (p.  204),  with  the  Church  of  the  Saertf-OoniT, 
and  the  reservoir  (p.  206).  Nearly  opposite ,  on  the  left,  iB  the 
imposing  hnilding  of  the  Cridit  Lyonnais.  No.  28,  on  the  light,  if 
the  Thidtre  des  Nouveautis  (p.  36),  behind  which,  in  the  Bue  Tait- 
bout,  begins  the  Boul.  Haussmann  (p.  197).  On  the  S.  side  of  the 
boulevard  we  next  observe  the  Pavilion  de  Hanovre,  No.  33,  built 
by  Marshal  de  Richelieu  in  1760  (partially  rebuilt  in  1888),  nov 
containing  the  principal  dep6t  of  the  *Orfdvrerie  Ghristofle'  (p.  44). 

Beyond  the  Rue  de  la  Ghauss^e-d'Antin  (on  the  right),  at  the 

end  of  which  rises  the  church  of  La  Trinity  (p.  196),  beg:iiit  the 

liandsome  *Boaleyard  des  Capncines  (PI.  R,  18;  /i),  450  yds.  in 

K  length.    On  the  right  are  the  Thidtre  du  VaudevOle  (p.  33),  and 

several  handsome  shops. 

We  next  reach  the  ♦Place  db  l'0p]6ra  (PI.  R,  18;  IX),  whieh  ii 
intersected  by  the  Boulevard  des  Capudnes,  and  where  Ave  other 
broad  streets  converge.  To  the  S.  run  the  Rue  de  la  Palx^  wtCli 
Its  tempting  shops  and  the  Yend6me  Column  in  the  background 
(p.  84),  the  handsome  *  Avenue  de  I'Opira,  leading  to  the  PUce  do 
Thtfatre-Fran^ais  (p.  61),  and  the  Rue  du  Quatre-S^tembre,  lead- 
ing to  the  Bourse  (p.  193).  To  the  N. ,  on  the  left  and  rigbt  of  tbe 
Opera,  are  the  Rue  Halivy  and  the  Rue  Auber,  the  latter  leading  to 
the  Gare  St.  Lazare  (p.  190).   Continuation  of  the  Bonleyard,  p.  80. 

The  *Opera  House,  a  sumptuous  edifice  bearing  the  inscription 
^Acadimie  Nationale  de  Mu8ique\  designed  by  Chas,  Oofnier,  mi 
begun  in  1861,  and  completed  in  1874.  It  is  now  the  largest  theatre 
In  the  world,  covering  an  area  of  13,596  sq.  yds.  (nearly  three 
acres);  but  it  contains  seats  for  2156  persons  only,  being  lees  than 
the  number  accommodated  by  the  opera-house  at  Yienna  or  the  Test 
theatres  of  La  Scala  at  Milan  and  San  Carlo  at  Naples.  No  adequate 
idea  of  its  vast  dimensions  can  be  obtained  without  walking  round 
the  exterior,  or  viewing  it  from  some  elevated  position. 

The  site  alone  cost  420,000{.  and  the  cost  of  building  amoaiiisd  !» 
1,460,000/.  The  site  had  to  be  excavated  to  a  depth  of  U)ft.  below  tti 
level  of  the  iirst  surface-water,  and  a  copious  stream  was  atmek  wUcfc 
necessitated  the  employment  of  eight  steam-pumps  night  and  day  for  aeW 
months.  Very  little  wood  has  been  employed  in  the  conatraction  <tf  At 
building,  but  there  is  hardly  a  variety  of  marble  or  costly  stone  that  kU 
not  been  used. 

The  *Pbincifal  Fa9^be,  which  ^  notwithstanding  the  rloluMV 
of  Ita  omamentation,  has  a  80mew\iat.  \iea^T}  «tv^  ^«^\^%%^^  t^^atf* 


1.  OPERA  HOUSE.  79 

ance,  U  approached  by  a  broad  flight  of  stepa,  aud  consists  of  three 
stories.  On  the  gronndfloor  is  the  Portico  with  its  seven  arches, 
the  piers  of  which  are  embellished  with  four  large  groups  of  statu- 
ary and  four  statues,  «<«.,  from  left  to  right :  Lyric  Poetry  by  Jouff- 
roy^  Music  by  OuiUaume,  Idyllic  Poetry  by  Aizelin,  Declamation 
by  Chapu,  Song  by  Dubois  and  VatrinelUy  Drama  by  Falguihre, 
Dance  by  Carpeaux\  and  Lyric  Drama  by  Perraud.  The  group  by 
Carpeaux,  though  admirably  executed,  has  been  severely  and  justly 
criticised  for  the  sensuality  of  its  style.  Above  the  statues  are  medal- 
lions of  Bach,  Pergolese,  Haydn,  and  Cimarosa.  Above  the  portico 
is  the  Loggia,  with  thirty  Corinthian  monolithic  columns,  sixteen 
of  which,  33  ft.  in  height,  are  of  stone,  while  the  fourteen  smaller 
columns  are  of  red  marble,  with  gilded  bronze  capitals,  and  form 
a  kind  of  frame  to  the  windows  with  balconies  of  green  Swedish 
marble.  In  the  intervening  spaces  are  medallion  busts,  In  gilded 
bronze,  of  the  great  musical  composers.  Above  the  loggia  the  facade 
terminates  in  a  richly  sculptured  attic,  embellished  with  gilded 
theatrical  masks,  and  with  colossal  gUded  groups  by  Oumery,  one  on 
each  side,  representing  Music  and  Poetry  attended  by  the  Muses  and 
Goddesses  of  Fame.  In  the  centre  of  the  building  rises  a  low  dome 
(visible  from  a  distance  only),  and  behind  it  a  huge  triangular  ped- 
iment, above  the  stage ,  crowned  with  an  Apollo  with  a  golden  lyre 
in  the  middle,  by  Millet,  and  flanked  with  two  Pegasi  by  Lequesne. 
—  There  is  also  a  pavilion  in  the  centre  of  ealh  of  the  Lateral  Fa- 
OAUES,  that  on  the  left  side  ('Pavilion  d'Honneur^)  having  a  double 
carriage -approach.  The  pavilion  on  the  other  side,  in  the  Rue 
Hal^vy,  is  the  entrance  for  regular  subscribers.  The  lateral  facades 
are  adorned  like  the  principal  one  with  busts  of  composers  and  alle- 
gorical figures.  —  Performances,  see  p.  32. 

♦Intbrior.  Passing  through  the  gilded  gates ,  we  first  enter 
the  Yestibule,  containing  the  ticket  -  offices ,  and  adorned  with 
statues  of  LuUy,  Rameau,  Gluck,  and  Handel.  Opposite  to  us  is 
the  ^Qrand  Staircase  (^Escalitr  d^Honntur'),  the  chef-d'oeuvre  of 
Garnier.  Visitors  who  take  their  tickets  at  the  door  have  to  ascend 
to  their  places  by  side-staircases,  but  may  inspect  the  Grand  Stair- 
case in  the  ^entr'actes'.  The  steps  are  of  white  marble,  and  the 
balustrades  oi  rosso  antico,  with  a  hand-rail  formed  of  Algerian  onyx. 
Thirty  coloured  monolithic  marble  columns  rise  to  the  height  of  the 
third  floor.  The  ceiling-frescoes  by  Pils,  beginning  on  the  right,  re- 
present the  Gods  of  Olympus,  Apollo  in  his  Chariot,  the  Instruc- 
tiveness  of  the  Opera ,  and  the  Triumph  of  Harmony.  The  hand- 
some door  on  the  first  landing,  flanked  by  bronze  caryatide  figures 
of  Tragedy  and  Comedy  with  drapery  of  coloured  marble,  and  the 
bronze  groups  supporting  the  lamps  should  also  be  noticed^ 

Below  the  grand  staircase,  in  a  room  reached.  iTOXo.  ^^  %\s^i%ct.NXi%.T^^ 
«ntrance  (see  above),  are  the  Bastin  de  la  F)fthU.  a  ioT«il«bYa.  N?\V\i  »» '^^^-^^^^^ 
of  ApoVo  in  broDze,  seated  on  a  tripod,  by  JIdrcaUo  O  ^aexji^o^^^  c»^  ^^^ 


80  1.  OPERA  HOUSE. 

Diicbesa  of  Colonna  di   Castigliunej ,   and  a  marble  ftatae  of  ]|«Ble,by 
Delaplanclie.  —  Public  *Foyer%  see  below. 

The  *AuuiTORiux ,  or  'Salle',  fitted  up  iu  the  most  elabonte 
style,  is  rather  overladen  with  decoration,  whioh,  howeyer,  hu  aU 
ready  begun  to  fade.  There  are  five  tiers  of  boxes.  The  spring  of  the 
arches,  the  'avant-sc^nes',  etc.,  on  the  fourth  tiei  axe  adorned  with 
fine  figures  and  heads.  Above  are  a  handsome  frieze,  and  numeioiu 
small  windows  in  the  shape  of  lyres.  The  ceiling-paintings,  by  Lensp- 
veu,  represent  the  different  hours  of  the  day  and  night,  aUegozised. 

The  Stage  is  196  ft.  in  height,  178  ft.  in  width,  and  74  ft 
iu  depth.  Communicating  with  it  is  the  Foyer  de  la  Donse,  or  ball- 
room, the  end  of  which  is  formed  by  a  mirror  28  ft.  broad  And  88  ft. 
high.  This  foyer  has  portraits  of  celebrated  ^dansenses'  and  other 
paintings  by  Boulanger  (not  open  to  the  public). 

The  *FoYEB  i)u  Public,  one  of  the  most  striking  featore  of  the 
Opera  House,  is  entered  by  the  'Avant-Foyer*,  the  yanltlng  of 
which  is  adorned  with  mosaics  designed  by  Cunony  and  ezeented 
by  Salviati,  representing  Diana  and  Endymion,  Orphens  and  Eury- 
dice,  Aurora  andCephalus,  and  Psyche  and  Mercury.  The  Foyer  itself 
is  175  ft.  long,  42  ft.  wide,  and  59  ft.  in  height.  Five  windows  and 
two  doors  lead  from  the  Foyer  to  the  Loggia  (view).  Opposite  the 
windows  are  huge  mirrors,  23  ft.  high,  separated  by  twenty  oolnmnt 
bearing  statues  emblematical  of  the  qualities  required  by  an  artist. 
At  the  ends  are  also  two  monumental  chimney-pieces  wit&  Oarya- 
tides  of  coloured  marble.  The  fine  but  somewhat  faded  paintings 
are  by  Baudry.  On  the  ceiling  are  Melody  and  Harmony  in  the  oen- 
tre,  with  Tragedy  and  Comedy  at  the  sides.  Over  the  chiimney-piooes 
are  Mount  Parnassus  and  the  Poets  of  Antiquity .  The  other  paintings 
represent  the  Muses,  with  the  exception  of  Polyhymnia,  the  Mnsie 
of  different  nations,  and  Dancing. 

Tu  the  left,  as  we  quit  the  ball,  is  a  buffet,  decorated  with  tapeitry 
designed  by  Mazerolle^  representing  Wine,  Ices,  Pastry,  and  FithlMg. 

The  Pavilion  d'Honneur  (p.  79),  Bue  Auber,  containa  a  MonummU  » 
Gamier^  the  architect  (1825-98),  with  a  bust  by  Garpeauxj  a  Librmrp^  bo- 
lunging  to  the  Opera ^  and  the  small  Musie  de  VOpira.  The  last,  optt 
on  week-days  11-1,  contains  sketches  of  the  principal  paintings  In  tiie 
Opera  House,  models  of  scenery ,  busts  and  portraits  of  stage  celebrities, 
MSB.  of  well-known  composers,  Spontini's  pianoforte,  old  play-billt  (1B06, 
1660,  etc.),  and  the  like. 

The  8uiall  Square  de  VOp&ra^  near  the  Opera  to  the  W.  (reached  1>7 
the  Rue  Boudreau,  which  diverge.**  from  the  Rue  Auber  to  the  left),  is 
umbel lishcd  with  a  Pegasus  in  bronze,  by  Falgui6re. 

In  the  Boulevard  des  Gapucines  we  next  observe  on  the  right 
(N.)  the  Grand  Hdtel  f p.  3),  with  the  Cafe  de  la  Paix  (p.  20) ;  beyond 
which  is  the  Rue  Scribe^  containing  the  offices  of  several  AtlantiA 
steamship  companies  (p.  28)  and  (farther  on)  the  Olympia  (p.  86). 

We  now  reach  the  Boulevard  de  la  Madeleine  (PI.  B,  lo ;  il> 

which  is  286  yds.  in  length,  and  loads  hence  to  the  chnreh  of  Ikat 

name,  where  the  Great  Boulevaida  on  t;tietV%\i\.\i«x^L^Q\&.^\ft taenia 


1.  MADELEINE.  81 

The  *Madeleine,  or  Church  ofSt.  Mary  Magdalen  (P1.B,  18;  II), 
is  built  in  the  style  of  a  late-Roman  adaptation  of  a  Greek  temple. 
The  construction  lasted  from  1764  till  1B42,  the  chief  architects  of 
the  building  being  Coutant  d'lvry,  P.  Vignon,  and  Euvi.  Napoleon  I. 
wished  to  convert  it  into  a  *Temple  of  Glory',  while  Louis  XVIII. 
desired  to  make  it  an  expiatory  church  with  monuments  to  Louis  XYI., 
Marie  Antoinette,  etc.  The  church  is  354  ft.  in  length,  141  ft.  In 
breadth,  and  100  ft.  in  height.  It  stands  on  a  basement  about  23  ft. 
in  height,  and  is  surrounded  by  an  imposing  colonnade  of  massive 
Corinthian  columns.  The  building,  which  is  destitute  of  windows,  is 
constructed  exclusively  of  stone.  The  niches  in  the  colonnade  contain 
thirty-four  modern  statues  of  saints.  The  relief  in  the  tympanum  of 
the  principal  facade  (S.),  by  Lemaire  (d.  1880),  represents  the  Last 
Judgment.  The  bronze  Doors,  34 1/2  ft.  in  height  and  16  ft.  in  breadth, 
are  adorned  with  illustrations  of  the  Ten  Commandments  by  Triqueti, 

The  ^Interior  (open  to  visitors  from  1  to  6  p.m. ;  when  the  front  gate 
ia  closed,  entrance  by  the  choir)  forms  a  single  spacioas  hall,  with  side- 
chapels,  behind  which  are  colonnades  bearing  galleries.  The  ceiling  con^ 
sists  of  three  cupolas  and  a  hemicycle.  In  the  spandrels  are  figures  of 
the  Apostles,  by  Fradier^  Rude^  and  Foyatier. 

Sculptures  and  paintings  in  the  chapels:  to  the  right,  Marriage  of  the 
Virgin,  by  Pradier;  to  the  left,  Baptism  of  Christ,  by  Rude:  right,  Ste. 
Amelie,  by  Bra;  left,  St.  Vincent-de-Paul,  by  Raggi;  right,  The  Saviour, 
by  Jhirel;  left.  The  Virgin,  by  Seurre;  right,  Ste.  Clotilde.  by  Barye;  left, 
St.  Augustine,  by  Etex.  In  the  lunettes  are  scenes  from  the  story  of  Mary  Mag- 
dalen, painted  by  Schnetz,  Cauder,  Bowihot^  Coffniet,  Abel  de  Fujol^  and  Signol. 

On  the  High  Altar  is  a  line  group  in  marble  by  Marochetti^  represent- 
ing Mary  Magdalen  being  borne  into  Paradise  by  two  angels.  —  At  the 
back  of  the  altar,  in  the  apse,  is  a  mosaic  by  Qilhert-Martin  representing 
Jesus  Christ  and  personages  from  the  Xew  Testament.  Above  is  a  large 
fresco  by  Ziegler^  representing  Christ  in  the  act  of  receiving  and  blessing 
the  chief  champions  of  Christianity  in  the  East  and  West;  below  is 
Napoleon  receiving  the  imperial  crown  from  the  hands  of  Pope  Pius  VII. 

The  Madeleine  is  famed  for  its  sacred  music  and  orchestral  perform- 
ances on  great  festivals  and  during  Passion  Week.  The  Organ,  with  five 
manuals,  is  one  of  the  best  in  Paris.  The  church  is  much  used  by  the 
Bonapartists  for  their  funeral  masses. 

Behind  the  church  is  9,  Statue  of  Lavoisier  (17 AS-^),  the  chem- 
ist, by  E.  Barrias.  A  monument  (by  Fr^miet)  is  to  be  erected  to 
Julea^^Simon  (1814-96),  the  author,  on  the  small  Place  to  the  left 
of  the  church.  —  For  a  description  of  the  Boulevard  Malesherbes, 
St.  Augustin,  etc.,  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Madeleine,  see  p.  197. 

IV.   FBOK  THE  KASELEINE  TO  THE  PALAI8-B0YAL  Vli  THE 
FLAOB  DE  LA  OONOOBDE. 

Oolonne  Venddme.    St.  Boch. 
The  broad  Bue  Boyale  leads  from  the  Madeleine  to  the  Place 
de  la  Concorde,  beyond  which,   on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Seine, 
rises  the  Chambre  des  D^put^s  (p.  272). 

The  Bue  Boyale  was  the  scene  of  some  of  the  mo^t  v\o\«iiX.  qm\x^%^% 
of  the  Communards  in  May,  1971.    Six  houses  hexe  weie  ^e\W>«i«.\^i  ^cX^xv 
Are,  together  wJth  several  neighbouring  houses  in  Ihe  'B.ue  ^u  'C^xiifeaw- 
Bt-Saaor^,  »ad  37 persons  perished  in  the  flames.    Some  ^^xexawv^ '^^^^^^'^ 
Bamomkms.  Puis.    Uth  Edit.  ^ 


82  1.   FLAGS  DS  LA  OONGOBDE. 

by  the  Gommane,  even  went  so  far  aa  to  replace  the  water  1b  thelrji 
by  petroleam.  —  Palais  de  TElys^e.  in  the  Rue  du  Faubourg-St*] 
see  p.  166}  Bue  St.  Honor^,  see  p.  85. 

The  **Flaoe  de  la  Co2ioorde(Pl.  B,  15, 18;  IT),  the  meet  lieantitel 
and  extensiye  place  in  Paris ,  and  one  of  the  finest  in  the  troxld, 
covers  an  area  390  yds.  in  length,  by  235  yds.  in  width,  bounded  on 
the  S.  by  the  Seine,  on  the  W.  by  the  Ghamps-Elystfes,  on  the  N.hy 
the  MiniBtdre  de  la  Marine  and  the  H6tel  Grillon-Goifllin  (p,  83), 
and  on  the  £.  by  the  garden  of  the  Tnileries.  It  recelTod  its  pre- 
sent form  in  1854 ,  from  designs  by  Hittorff  (d.  1876).  From  the 
centre  of  the  square  a  view  is  obtained  of  the  Madeleine  (p.  81), 
the  Palais  de  la  Ghambre  des  D^pnttfs,  the  Lonyre,  and  the  Axe  de 
Triomphe  de  I'Etoile. 

In  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent,  the  site  was  still  a  desert.  Loidi  ZY. 
^gratified'  the  municipal  aathorities  of  Paris  by  permission  to  oreot  a 
statue  to  him,  and  Oabriel,  the  architect,  constructed  the  present  mtIUobi 
and  balustrades,  behind  which  ditches  were  dug,  which  remained  imfllled 
until  1892.  The  statue,  which  was  not  erected  until  1768,  was  an  equut* 
rian  figure  of  the  king  by  Bouchardon  (model,  see  p.  106),  suROoiidsd 
by  figures  emblematical  of  Strength,  Wisdom,  Justice,  and  Peaee,  hj 
Pigalle.  Soon  after  the  erection  of  the  statue  the  following  pasquinade 
appeared  on  the  pedestal:  — 

*0  la  heUe  statue!  6  U  beau  piideitall 
Le»  vertui  sont  A  pied^  le  vice  e*i  A  chevaH.* 
A  few  days  later  was  added  the  sarcasm:  — 

^/l  eet  id  eomme  A  Venailles^ 
II  est  sans  eoeur  et  sans  entraille*,^ 
A  third  scribbler  called  the  monument  a  ^statua  statumf* 

On  11th  August,  1792,  the  day  after  the  capture  of  the  TuUeriet,  the 
statue  of  the  king  was  removed  by  order  of  the  LegislatiTe  Assembly, 
melted  down,  and  converted  into  pieces  of  two  sous.  A  terraeotta  flgore 
of  tiie  'Goddess  of  Liberty^  was  then  placed  on  the  pedestal,  and  derls- 
ively  styled  ^La  Liberti  de  Boue"^  while  the  Place  was  named  Ptaes  de  H 
JUvolution.  In  1795  the  name  was  changed  to  J*laee  de  la  Ooncorda,  8b4 
after  the  restoration  of  the  Bourbons ,  when  it  was  proposed  to  ertet  sa 
expiatory  monument  here,  it  was  known  successively  as  Fiac$  Limit  Zf.| 
and  Place  Louis  XVI.  After  1880  the  name  Place  de  la  Concorde  wis 
revived.  

In  1792  the  guillotine  began  its  bloody  work  here  and  Lonls  XVL  wu 
executed  in  the  Place  on  Jan.  21st,  1793.  On  17th  July  Charlotte  Oorday 
was  beheaded;  on  2ad  October  Brissot,  chief  of  the  Gironde,  with  tweatr 
one  of  his  adherents  {  on  16th  Oct.  the  ill-fated  queen  Marie  AntoineAIti 
on  14th  "Soy.  Philippe  Egalit^,  Duke  of  Orleans,  father  of  King  JapoU  W- 
lippet  on  12th  May,  1794,  Madame  Elisabeth,  sister  of  Lonia  XVL  Oi 
14th  March,  through  the  influence  of  Dan  ton  and  Robespierre ,  Htfbflrti 
the  most  determined  opponent  of  all  social  rule,  together  with  nla  nartt^ 
zans,  also  terminated  his  career  on  the  scaffold  here.  The  next  Tiraai 
were  the  adherents  of  Marat  and  the  Orleanistst  then  on  8th  Apill  Osr 
ton  himself  and  his  party,  among  whom  was  Gamille  DesmonUnai  vU 
on  16th  April  the  atheists  Ghaumette  and  Anaoharsis  Cloota,  ond  tt* 
wives  of  Gamille  Desmoulins ,  Hubert ,  and  others.  On  28th  Jmy.  flUi 
Kobespierre  and  his  associates,  his  brother ,  Dumas .  St.  Joat,  and  ett* 
members  of  the  ^eomiti  du  salut  public''  met  a  retributive  end  noM|  a  iHr 
days  later  the  same  fate  overtook  82  members  of  the  " - " 


Bobespierre  had  employed  as  his  tools.  Lasource,  one  of  fh«  QfamiiMlb 
said  to  his  judges:  Ve  meurs  dans  un  moment  oik  le  peeg^ls  a  jpcnhi  if  frf* 
^of»/  vous,  vous  mourret  le  jour  oil  il  la  retrouvera*.    Between  9iit  Jifc 

1783,   and  3rd  May,  1795,  upwards  ol  <2»^  ^«T«Qti%  ^«tUhed  here  1rf9$ 

gniUotlne, 


1.  PLACE  DE  LA  CONCORDE.  83 

In  March,  1871,  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  and  the  ChampB-Elysdea  were 
occupied  by  the  German  army.  In  May  of  the  same  year  the  Place  was  the 
scene  of  fierce  conflicts  between  the  Versailles  troops  and  the  Gommanards, 
who  had  erected  a  barricade  at  the  end  of  the  Bue  Royale  commanding 
the  Place. 

The  *  Obelisk,  wbiob  rises  in  the  centre  of  the  Place,  was 
presented  to  Louis  Philippe  by  Mohammed  All,  Viceroy  of  Egypt 
This  is  a  monolith,  or  single  block,  of  reddish  granite  or  syenite, 
from  the  quarries  of  Syene  (the  modem  Assn&n)  in  Upper  Egypt. 
It  is  76  ft.  in  height,  and  wjeighs  240  tons.  The  pedestal  of  Breton 
granite  is  13  ft.  high,  and  also  consists  of  a  single  block,  while  the 
steps  by  which  it  Is  approached  raise  the  whole  3Y2  ^t.  above  the 
ground.  The  representations  on  the  pedestal  refer  to  the  embarka- 
tion of  the  obelisk  in  Egypt  in  1831  and  to  its  erection  in  1836  at 
Paris,  under  the  superintendence  of  the  engineer  J.  B.  Lebat,  — 
Cleopatra's  Needle  in  London  is  70  ft.  in  height,  and  the  Obelisk 
in  the  Piazza  di  San  Giovanni  in  Laterano  at  Rome  is  104  ft.  high. 

JSoflMM  //.,  King  of  Egypt,  better  known  by  his  Greek  title  of  Sesostris 
the  Great,  who  reigned  in  the  i4th  cent,  before  Christ,  erected  a  hnge 
^pylon*  gate  and  a  colonnade  before  a  temple  which  his  great  ancestor 
Amenhotep  III.  iAmenophit  or  Memnon  of  the  Greeks)  had  built  in  the  E. 
subarb  of  Thebes,  the  site  now  occapied  by  the  poor  village  of  Luxor.  In 
front  of  this  gate  stood  two  beaatifnl  obelisks,  and  it  Is  one  of  these  that 
now  embellishes  the  Place  de  la  Concorde.  Each  of  the  foor  sides  of  the 
obelisk  is  inscribed  with  three  vertical  rows  of  hieroglyphics,  the  middle 
row  in  each  case  referring  to  Bamses  II,  while  the  others  were  added  by 
Bjimses  III.,  a  monarch  of  the  succeeding  dynasty. 

Each  of  the  *FoantaiiLS  beside  the  obelisk  consists  of  a  round 
basin,  53  ft.  in  diameter,  above  which  rise  two  smaller  basins, 
surmounted  by  a  spout  from  which  a  jet  of  water  rises  to  a  height 
of  28  ft.  In  the  lowest  basin  are  six  Tritons  and  Nereids,  holding 
dolphins  which  spout  water  into  the  second  basin.  The  fountain  on 
the  S.  side  is  dedicated  to  the  8eas,  the  other  to  the  Rivera, 

The  two  imposing  edifices  of  nearly  uniform  exterior  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  square ,  separated  from  each  other  by  the  Rue  Royale 
(p.  81),  were  erected  in  1762-1770,  from  QdbrieVt  plans,  for  the  re- 
ception of  ambassadors  and  other  distinguished  personages.  That  to 
the  right  is  now  occupied  by  the  Minisikre  de  la  Marine  \  that  to  the 
left,  the  H6iel  Crillon-Coislirh,  is  now  divided  into  four  parts,  of 
which  one  is  occupied  by  the  Oercle  de  la  Rue  Royale  (p.  39). 

Upon  lofty  pedestals  placed  around  the  Place  rise  eight  stone 
figures  representing  the  chief  towns  of  France :  Lille  and  Strassburg 
by  Pradierf  Bordeaux  and  Nantes  by  Callouetj  Rouen  and  Brest  by 
Cortotf  and  Marseilles  and  Lyons  by  Petitot.  The  Strassburg  is 
usually  hung  with  crape  and  mourning  garlands,  in  reference  to  the 
lost  Alsace.  The  square  is  lighted  at  night  from  twenty  bronzed 
rostral  columns  on  the  surrounding  balustrades. 

The  Pont  de  la  Concorde  (PI.  R,  16, 14-,  11^,  ^\aft\^  ^vi%%^^  ^^ 
Seliie  from  the  Place  to  the  Ohambre  des  D6^ut6«^  "vi^^  X^'oXNX.  V) 
V^rtonetin  iTST'dO,  the  material  for  the  TippeT'9aTt^>c>V[v%^^'«^^^^^ 


84  1.  PLACE  YENDOmB. 

by  the  Btones  of  the  Bastille.  The  pien  are  in  the  fonn  of  half- 
colamns,  and  nnder  the  first  empire  were  adorned  with  sUtaas  ff 
generals,  which  were  subsequently  replaced  by  the  etataes  of  grast 
men  now  in  the  Gonr  d'Honneur  at  Yersaillei  (see  p.  812). 

The  view  from  the  bridge  is  very  fine.  It  inoludet  tht  Plaoa  de  U 
Concorde,  the  Madeleine,  and  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  t  tiieii,  upttnaak. 
to  the  left,  the  Taileries  Garden ,  a  pavilion  of  the  Toilariet  and  on*  of 
the  Loavre,  the  Pont  Solf^rino  and  the  Pont  Royal;  to  tha  right,  the 
new  Oare  d'Orldans,  in  front  of  which  is  the  little  dome  of  the  Palais  le 
la  Legion  d^Hunneur;  farther  off  are  >he  dome  of  the  Instltat,  tha  towais 
of  Notre  Dame,  the  spire  of  the  Sainte  Chapelle,  and  the  dome  of  tfie 
Tribunal  de  Commerce.  Downstream,  to  the  right,  appear  the  two  Palais 
des  Beaux  Arts  and  several  buildings  of  the  Exhibition  of  lOOOz  thea  the 
new  Pont  Alexandre  III.,  and,  farther  off,  the  towers  of  the  TrocaddiO; 
to  the  left  the  Ministry  of  Foreign  Affairs  and  the  inevitable  EilTal  Tower. 
The  dome  of  the  Invalides  can  be  seen  only  from  a  little  below  the  bridge, 
to  the  right  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  and  the  spires  of  8te.  Clotilda  to 
the  left,  above  the  houses. 

Below  the  bridge  is  the  monumental  main  entrance  to  the  BzfaiUtiAn 
of  1900.  —  Chambre  des  D^put^s.  see  p.  272;  Boulevard  St.  Oermalm  p.  339; 
Garden  of  the  Tuileries,  p.  153:  Ghamps-Elys^es,  p.  156.  —  OmBlbvJSS, 
tramways,  and  steamboats,  see  the  Appendix. 

We  finish  onr  circular  walk  by  re-entering  the  Bue  de  BivcU 
(p.  61),  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  and  follow- 
ing it  to  the  E. ,  skirting  the  Tnileries  Garden  and  the  wing  of  the 
palace  still  existing  on  this  side.  On  the  left  are  several  Bnmptnoiit 
hotels,  beginning  with  the  Hdtel  Continental  (jp.  3),  whloh  occuplei 
the  site  of  the  former  Ministftre  des  Finances,  destroyed  by  the 
Gommnnards  in  1871.  A  tablet  on  one  of  the  pillars  of  the  nlling 
of  the  Garden  of  the  Tnileries,  nearly  opposite  this  spot,  reooids 
that  here  was  sitaated  the  famous  riding-school  (Mairige)  used  u 
a  place  of  meeting  by  the  Constituent  Assembly,  the  LegUIatlTe 
Assembly,  and  the  National  Convention. 

The  Rue  Castiglione ,  at  the  comer  of  which  the  H6tel  Conti- 
nental stands,  leads  to  the  Place  Venddme  (PL  R,  18 ;  IT),  partly 
constructed  by  the  celebrated  architect  J.  H.  Afansart  (the  Younger, 
d.  1708).  The  Place  was  once  embellished  with  an  equestrian  statu 
of  Louis  XIY.  by  Girardon.  This  was  removed  at  the  Rerolutlitt, 
and  the  name  of  the  square  changed  from  Plaee  des  ConquiUi  to 
Place  des  Piqfiea.  It  owes  its  present  name  (assigned  to  It  by  Kir 
poleon  L)  to  a  palace  erected  here  by  Henri  lY.  for  his  son,  the  Dee 
de  Venddme.  In  the  centre  of  the  Place  rises  the  — 

*Colonne  Venddme,  an  imitation  of  Trajan's  oolnmn  at  Rome, 
142  ft.  in  height  and  13  ft.  in  diameter.  It  was  erected  by  Ai 
architects  Denon^  Oondouiny  and  Lephre,  by  order  of  Napoleon  1 
in  1806-10 ,  to  commemorate  his  victories  over  the  Rnsslani  ui 
Austrians  in  1805.  The  column  is  constructed  of  masonry,  esoianuibd 
with  plates  of  bronze  (designed  by  Bergeret')  forming  a  spiral  "bttA 
nearly  300  yds.  in  length ,  on  which  are  represented  memonUi 
scenes  of  the  campaign  of  1805  ,  from  the  breaking  up  of  the  esap 
Ht  Boulogne  down  to  the  Battle  of  ^.w^tftiWU.  TYia  ^^s^«a  va  S  It 


1.    ST.ROOH.  85 

in  height,  and  many  of  them  are  portraits.  The  metal  was  obtained 
hy  melting  down  1200  Russian  and  Austrian  cannons.  At  the  top  is 
a  statue  of  Napoleon  in  his  imperial  robes,  after  Chaudet.  Visitors 
are  no  longer  permitted  to  ascend. 

The  vicissitadea  of  the  Venddme  Column  reflect  the  political  history 
of  France.  In  1814  the  statue  of  Kapoleon  was  taken  down  by  the  Royal- 
ists, and  was  replaced  by  a  monster  fleur-de-lis  surmounted  by  a  white 
flag.  The  metal  was  used  in  casting  the  equestrian  statue  of  Henri  IV. 
(p.  228).  In  1831  Louis  Philippe  caused  a  new  statue  of  the  emperor,  in  a 
greatcoat  and  three-cornered  hat,  to  be  placed  on  the  summit,  but  Xapo- 
leon  m.  caused  this  to  be  replaced  in  1863  by  one  resembling  the  original 
figure.  The  Column  was  overthrown  by  the  Communards  in  May,  1871,  at 
the  instigation  of  the  painter  Courbet  (d.  187Q);  but  as  the  fragments  were 
preserved,  it  was  re-erected  in  1876. 

The  street  prolonging  the  Rne  Oastiglione  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  Place  Is  the  Rne  de  la  Paix,  mentioned  at  p.  78.  —  We, 
however,  retrace  our  steps  along  the  Rne  Gastiglione  to  the  Bue 
SU  HonorSy  the  first  oross-street,  where  we  turn  to  the  left. 

In  this  street,  to  the  right,  are  the  Nouveau  Cirque  (p.  86)  and  the  Church 
of  the  Auumptum  (sometimes  closed),  a  building  of  the  17th  cent.,  with  a 
somewhat  heavy  dome.   On  the  cupola  is  an  Assumption  by  Ch.  de  la  Fosse. 

St.  Soch  (Pl.R,  18;  II\  in  the  Rue  St.  Honor^,  between  the 
Place  Venddme  and  the  Palais  Royal,  was  erected  in  1653-1740  from 
designs  by  Jacques  Lemercier,  but  the  facade,  with  its  two  rows  of 
Doric  and  Gorinthian  columns ,  one  above  the  other,  was  designed 
by  Robert  de  Cottej  and  executed  by  his  son  Jules  de  Cotte, 

Intebxob.  The  chapels  of  the  aisles  were  decorated  in  the  early  part 
of  the  19th  cent,  with  paintings,  now  faded  and  visible  only  in  bright 
weather.  The  subjects  of  the  paintings  are  indicated  by  the  names  of 
the  chapels  {  viz.y  on  the  left,  Chapelle  des  Fonts.  St.  Nicolas,  de  la  Com- 
passion, Ste.  Suzanne,  St.  Denis,  St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  St.  Joseph,  St. 
Fran90is  Xavier,  and  St.  Carlo  Borromeo;  on  the  right,  as  we  return, 
Chapelle  Ste.  Madeleine,  Ste.  Catherine,  Ste.  Th^r^se,  Ste.  Clotilda,  Ste. 
Genevieve,  of  the  Apostles,  St.  Stephen,  and  Chapelle  des  Monuments.  The 
most  important  paintings  in  the  church  are  those  in  the  transepts:  to  the 
left,  St.  Denis  preaching,  by  Vien  (d.  1809),  master  of  David,  in  the 
academic  style;  to  the  right.  Healing  of  the  Leper,  by  Doyen  (d.  1B06),  a 
somewhat  theatrical  composition.  In  the  Ist  chapel  to  the  left:  'Baptism 
of  Christ,  a  group  in  marble,  by  Lemoine.  —  2nd  Chapel :  Mater  Dolorosa, 
by  Bogino.  —  1th  Chapel:  Monument  of  the  Abbi  de  VEpie  (1712-1789), 
founder  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  (p.  285),  by  PriauU.  —  In  the 
transepts,  from  left  to  right:  St.  Augustine,  by  a^Huet;  St.  Andrew,  by 
PracUer;  Agony  in  the  Garden,  hy  Falconet  \  St.  Roch,  by  Couetou^  etc.  The 
other  side-chapels  contain  large  reliefs,  by  Deeeine,  representing  scenes 
from  the  history  of  the  Passion. 

To  the  left  and  right,  behind  the  high- altar,  are  paintings,  hj  Lethiire 
and  Restouty  of  Christ  appearing  to  Mary  Magdalen  and  the  Presentation 
in  the  Temple.  —  Upon  the  altar  of  the  1st  chapel  of  the  retro-choir : 
Nativity,  a  group  in  marble  by  Michel  Anguier.  —  In  the  ambulatory  are 
paintings  by  Schneity  Thomas,  Delormey  and  Restoui.  —  The  Chapelle  du 
Oaltfaire  (the  2nd),  which  is  separate  from  the  other  two,  is  decorated 
after  designs  by  Falconet  and  contains  three  well -executed  groups:  the 
Crucifixion,  by  Dueetgneur,  Christ  on  the  Cross,  by  Mwh,  Anguier,  and  the 
Entombment,  by  Deseine.  The  kneeling  Magdalen  in  the  ceutT%^  \^i  li«- 
mopne,  belonged  to  the  monument  of  the  painter  Hl^xitbX^  «sA  \^^vc%  VX\% 
features  of  his  daughter,  Mme.  de  Feuquiferes. 

In  the  last  chapel  but  one,  as  we  return  towaTd.a  ^^  cuUwic.^'.    ^^^*v 
oment  of  Jfarshai  Due  de  Criquy  (d.  1687),  by  (?oy«ew>x  wi^  Coualon.  —  Ai»A^. 


86  2.   LOUVRE. 

ehftpel:  Monuments  of  *  Cardinal  Dubois  (d.  1739),  1>7  tf*  OiMiffo«|  Md  «f 
Ccmte  cTHareourt  (d.  1666),  bv  Renard;  biuts  of  the  pAinter  JA^pMrtf  Cd. 
169fi),  by  Detjardins,  And  of  the  landscape-gardener  X«  JI^Mrt  fd.  ITO^JT 
Coyievox  the  Elder t  monament  of  the  astronomer  Mmipmrimk  (d.  nH), 
by  d^Hueg;  bust  of  the  Z>tic  d«  Lesdigvikree  (d.  1626),  by  CIImm<mI|  «b4  Mf^ 
eral  medallions.  —  St.  Boch  is  noted  for  its  music  (10  a.m.  on  Sua.). 

It  was  in  the  Place  in  front  of  St.  Boch,  extending  aft  that  timt  ai 
fbr  as  the  Tuileries  Garden,  that  the  Boyalists  who  attacked  the  Oohthl- 
tion  on  6th  Oct.,  1795,  placed  their  best  battalions  ^  whilst  ofhMi  ad- 
vanced on  the  side  of  the  river.  Napoleon  Bonaparte,  however,  brooi^ 
the  latter  under  a  cross-fire  from  his  batteries,  which  he  had  hastily  ram- 
moned ,  while  by  a  vigorous  attack  he  overwhelmed  the  toldlen  of  St 
Boch,  thus  stifling  the  counter-revolution  in  its  birth. 

The  Rue  des  Pyramidea ,  to  the  right  of  St.  Rooh,  leads  to  ihe 
Rue  de  Rlvoli ,  passing  the  small  Place  de  Bivoli,  with  a  medloen 
equestrian  statue  of  Joan  of  Are,  in  bronze,  by  Frtfmiet. 

Following  the  Rue  de  RivoU  to  the  left  we  now  soon  Teaoh  tha 
Nouveau  Louvie  and  the  Place  du  Palais-Royal  (p.  69). 

2.  Palace  and  Galleries  of  the  Louvre.  The  Tuileries. 

I.   TEE  PALAOE  OP  THE  LOTXYBB. 

The  **LoiiTre  (PL  R,  17,  20;  II),  the  most  important  puUle 
building  at  Paris,  both  architecturally  and  on  account  of  Its  treasures 
of  art,  Is  a  palace  of  vast  extent,  rising  between  the  Rue  de  RItoU 
and  the  Seine. 

The  Louvre  perhaps  derives  its  name  from  an  ancient  rendesroiu  of 
wolf-hunters,  known  as  the  Lupara.  Lupera,  or  Louverie.  It  Ifl  imally 
supposed  that  Philip  Augustus  (1180-1223)  erected  the  first  castle  heref  it 
is  at  any  rate  certain  that,  when  that  monarch  was  constmctlng  the  new 
city-walls ,  he  also  built  the  massive  corner-tower  of  which  the  fonnda* 
lions  were  dif^oovered  in  1885  in  the  cellar  below  the  MuBeum  of  Anti- 
quities (p.  90).  The  plan  and  extent  of  the  medlseval  chfttean  were  made 
plain  by  the  excavations  of  1865  and  are  now  indicated  by  a  white  line 
on  the  ground  in  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  Ck)ur  du  Louvre.  It  was  not, 
however,  until  the  time  of  Charles  V.  (1364-80),  who  removed  Ms  treasnry 
and  library  to  it,  that  the  chateau  was  fitted  up  in  the  handsome  style 
appropriate  to  a  royal  residence.  Xo  trace  of  these  buildings  now  re- 
mains. In  1527  Francis  I.  (d.  1547),  an  indefatigable  builder,  tore  down 
the  old  tower  and  modernized  the  chateau,  and  a  little  later  he  undertook 
to  rebuild  it  entirely.  The  growth  of  the  building  may  be  traM)ed  in  the 
Historical  Plan,  facing  p.  87.  Tlie  works  were  directed  by  the  arehitaei 
Pierre  Lescoti  during  the  reign  of  the  spleudour-loving  Henri  II.  (1547-fiQ), 
and  under  subsequent  monarchs.  After  the  death  of  Henri  II.  his  widoi^ 
Catherine  de  MidiHs  (d.  1589),  during  the  reigns  of  her  sons  FramHe  IL 
(d.  1560),  Charles  IX.  (d.  1574),  and  Henri  III.  (d.  1589),  eoatlBued  fks 
erection  of  the  S.  wing,  and  in  1566  also  proceeded  to  build  the  so-eaOsi 
^Petite  Galerie%  a  wing  of  one  story  over  which  the  Galerie  d*ApollaB 
(p.  187)  was  afterwards  constructed.  —  Like  his  predecessors.  Hmsri  /F> 
(1589-1610)  devoted  much  attention  to  the  continuation  of  the  Louvre.  Bl 
constructed  the  'Galerie  d'ApoUon'  and  completed  the  'Galerie  d«  Bofi 
de  TEan',  or  8.  gallery,  the  entire  W.  portion  of  which.  howeTer.  wM 
rebuilt  on  a  different  plan  under  Napoleon  III.  Henri  IV.  s  arehiteMi  tft 
said  to  have  been  Thibauld  Miiegeau  and  Louis  Miieseau^  besides  whoa 
Jacques  and  Jean  Bapttste  Androuet^  sumamed  du  Cerceent,  were  also  employi& 

f  For  details  regarding  the  arUaU,  eeeliUV.  ^\.  Wi^  «n^Ql>^%'&MiibKriu 


2.   LOUVRE.  87 

Pierre  Oha/mbigety  or  ChamMthe  (eomp.  p.  66),  is  also  named  aa  one  of  tne 
architects.  Under  Zotti*  XIII.  (161043)  the  worka  were  suspended  for 
a  considerable  time,  but  in  1624  he  entmsted  Jaequet  Lemereier  with  the 
completion  of  the  buildings  begun  by  Lescot.  The  extent  of  Lescot^s  design 
was  qaadmpled,  and  what  had  formerly  been  the  K.  parilion  (Pavilion 
Sully,  or  de  THorloge)  was  now  made  the  centre  of  the  W.  wing.  The 
construction  of  the  K.,  S.,  and  E.  sides,  barely  begun  by  Louis  XIU.,  was 
continued  by  his  successor  Louis  XIV.  (d.  1715),  Leoau  being  the  architect 
who  succeeded  Lemereier  in  1660.  The  building  was  suspended  under 
Louis  XV.  and  Louis  XVI.  and  during  the  Revolution;  but  was  resumed 
in  1805  by  Napoleon  /.,  whose  architects,  Per  Her  and  Fontaine*  began  the 
construction  of  a  K.  g^ery  parallel  to  that  on  the  S.  Finally,  after  another 
interruption,  the  old  plan  of  the  French  kings  and  the  first  emperor  for 
the  junction  of  the  Louvre  and  the  Tuileries  was  completed  in  1852-1857 
ander  Napoleon  III,j  whose  architects  were  Viseontt  and  Lefuel.  The 
parts  built  under  Kapoleon  III.  include  the  E.  half  (220  yds.  long)  of  the 
V.  gallery,  and  also  the  inner  galleries  on  both  N.  and  S.,  nearly  as  long, 
which  with  their  transverse  galleries  at  right  angles,  and  the  gardens  in 
the  square,  were  intended  to  conceal  the  want  of  exact  parallelism  between 
the  ».  and  S.  wings  and  between  the  Vleux  Louvre  and  the  Tuileries. 

The  older  part  of  the  Louvre  has  been  the  scene  of  many  memorable 
historical  events.  On  19th  Aug.,  1672,  the  marriage  of  Princess  Margaret 
of  Valoie  with  the  King  of  Navarre,  afterwards  Henri  IV.  of  France,  was 
solemnised  here,  most  of  the  Huguenot  chiefs  being  present  on  the  occa- 
sion. Five  day9  later,  on  the  night  of  24th  Aug.,  the  signal  was  given 
here  for  the  massacre  of  the  Huguenots.  The  guards  immediately  issued 
from  the  palace-court  where  they  had  been  assembled,  and  proceeded 
first  to  the  residence  of  Admiral  de  Coligny^  who  became  the  first  victim 
of  the  fearful  Kight  of  St.  Bartholomew.  According  to  a  tradition,  repeated 
by  Ifirabeau  and  other  orators  of  the  Revolution,  Charles  IX.  himself  on 
this  occasion  fired  on  his  subjects  from  one  of  the  S.  windows  of  the 
piUace,  where  the  inscription,  *G^est  de  cette  fenStre  que  Tinfame 
Charles  IX.,  d'ex^crable  m^moire,  a  tir^  sur  le  peuple  avec  une  carabine', 
was  accordingly  engraved  in  176o.  Six  years  later,  however,  the  words 
were  erased,  as  it  was  discovered  that  that  part  of  the  palace  was  not 
built  till  the  reign  of  Henri  IV. 

On  24th  May,  1871,  the  whole  building  with  its  immense  treasures  of 
art  was  seriously  imperilled  by  the  incendiarism  of  the  Communards.  The 
part  of  the  connecting  wing  next  to  the  Tuileries  was  much  damaged  by 
the  fire,  and  the  imperial  library  of  90,000  vols,  and  many  precious  HSS. 
was  destroyed.  The  Versailles  troops  fortunately  arrived  in  time  to  arrest 
the  progress  of  the  flames  and  prevent  incalculably  greater  losses. 

The  palace  of  the  LouYie  consistB  of  two  main  divisions,  the 
Vieux  Louvre^  or  Old  Louvre,  and  the  Houvtau  Louvre,  or  New  Louvre. 

The  YiEXJX  LouYBE  is  the  large  quadrangle  of  buildings  at  the 
£.  end  of  the  opposite  historical  plan,  enclosing  a  court  of  harmon- 
ious design.  The  finest  parts,  however,  are  the  S.  half  of  the 
W.  side  facing  the  court  and  the  W.  half  of  the  S.  side,  next  the 
Seine,  both  by  P.  Lticot,  the  most  distinguished  master  of  the 
earlier  French  Renaissance  style ;  the  other  portions ,  as  indicated 
above,  being  merely  reproductions.  The  rich  facade  of  the  W.  wing, 
rising  in  three  stories  and  decorated  by  Jean  Ooujon  and  Paolo 
Ponxio,  is  Justly  admired  as  the  most  perfect  example  of  the  style 
of  the  period  of  Francis  I.  The  central  pavilion  was  originally  ^1 
two  stories  only ;  the  story  subsequently  added,  is  aL^onva^  -wVCcl  q.^- 
ryatides  by  J.  Sarazin,  These  domed  pavilions,  lite  t\ife  Vilx.'^  ^^^^- 
rated  chimneys,  form  a  genuine  peculiaxity  ol  t\i©  Igieu^'S.e^^^^' 


88  2.   LOUVRE. 

sance,  as  we  have  already  noted  at  the  H6tel.de  Vllle  (jp.  60).  Th« 
attic  story  of  the  remaining  three  sides  was  added  under  Lonlf  XIY. 
The  exterior  facades  are  similar,  except  on  the  £•  tide,  oppodte 
St.  Germain  1' Auxerrols.  That  facade,  190  yds.  long  and  90  ft  lii|^ 
was  erected  by  CI.  Perrault,  physician  and  architect,  wboM  hand- 
some Colonnade^  consisting  of  28  Corinthian  colnmnt  in  pain,  luf 
oeen  somewhat  overrated.  The  dimensions  of  the  colonnade  wen 
so  unskilfully  calculated,  that  it  is  not  only  longer  than  the  nudn 
building,  but  was  also  too  high  until  the  attic  story  waa  added. 

The  gardens  on  the  outside  of  the  Vienx  Louyre  are  adorned  witfa 
monaiments  of  artists.  To  the  left,  in  front  of  the  colonnade.  Is  as  Muflt- 
trian  statue  of  Velatquet  (1599-1660),  by  Fr^miet-,  farther  to  the  left  Is  tka 
monument  of  Fr.  Boucher  (110^  70),  by  Auber,  then  that  of  Ai/W  (liBOI-IO), 
with  the  drummer  from  his  ^Review  of  the  Dead';  and  beyond  fliat  If  a 
monument  to  Meissonier  (1815-91),  by  Herein. 

The  NouvEAu  Loxjvb,b,  which  is  much  larger,  extends  to  theW. 
from  the  Yieux  Louvre  to  beyond  the  Arc  de  Tiiomphe  dn  Car- 
rousel, where  it  unites  with  two  wings  of  the  former  palace  of  the 
Tnileries.  It  includes  a  few  ancient  portions,  as  indicated  ahore, 
but  the  most  interesting  parts  are  the  additions  of«ihe  19th  cent., 
especially  those  in  the  inner  square.  The  heavy  and  showy  fa^adei 
of  these  new  buildings,  with  their  pavilions  roofed  with  domes,  their 
Corinthian  half-columns,  their  caryatides,  their  portico,  colossal  st^ 
tues  (representing  86  eminent  Frenchmen),  and  groups  of  son^ 
ture  [63,  of  an  allegorical  character*),  harmonise  In  their  general 
characteristics  only  with  the  architecture  of  the  earlier  parts  of  the 
palace.  It  is  scarcely  more  practicable  to  enumerate  the  scnlptuiei 
that  adorn  the  exterior  of  the  Nouveau  Louvre,  than  to  ennmerale 
those  on  the  Yieux  Louvre.  The  pediments  and  caryatides  of  the 
six  chief  pavilions,  from  left  to  right,  beginning  at  the  Plaee  dt 
Carrousel,  are  by  the  following  artists :  Guillaume  (next  the  Place) 
and  CaveUer;  Buret  (pediment),  Bosio^  Polet,  and  CavdUr;  VUaia 
(two  pavilions);  Simart  (pediment),  Briant  the  Younger,  Jaeqiu^ 
Ottin,  and  Robert;  Jouffroy  (next  the  square)  and  Legueme. 

The  Louvre  and  Tuileries  together  cover  an  area  of  about  48 
acres,  forming  one  of  the  most  magnificent  palaces  in  the  world.  Tha 
effect  of  the  whole  is  harmonious,  in  spite  of  the  lack  of  nnltf ;  aai 
the  pile  is  considered  perhaps  the  best  work  of  French  arohitaetim 

Since  1793  the  whole  of  the  Old  Louvre  has  been  naed  aa  alfi^ 
seum.  The  E.  half  of  the  S.  wing  of  the  New  Louvre  also  tenitslM 
collections,  while  the  N.  wing  is  occupied  by  the  minister  of  llnaaMb 

Those  who  wish  to  make  use  of  their  time  before  the  OalloilH  Ht 
open,  or  after  they  are  shut,  may  walk  through  the  Jardin  det  TuOedM 
(p.  153)  to  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  (p.  82),  or  along  the  qaays  on  the  Sctat 
to  the  Pont-Neuf  (p.  228),  or  even  as  far  as  the  Palais  de  Jnstioe  (p.  3H^ 
The  Galleries  cannot  be  properly  seen  in  one  day.  —  D^eaner  may  li 
taken  at  the  Palais-Royal  (see  p.  17)  or  at  one  of  the  Duval  Beatai 
Rue  Montesquieu  6  and  Bue  de  Bivoli  194  (Place  de  Bivoli,  p.  IT), 


2.   LOUVRB.  89 

n.    THE  OALLSSIS8  OF  THE  LOVTSLE. 

The  Lonyre  CoUectioiu  are  open  gratis  to  the  public  dai^f^  except 
Mondavi  and  eertain  holidays  (see  p.  68);  hours,  see  p.  56. 

The  best  time  for  visiting  the  galleries  is  as  early  as  possible  in  the 
morning,  as  they  are  often  crowded  in  the  afternoon,  particularly  on  Sun- 
days. —  Overcoats,  sticks,  and  umbrellas  may,  and  parcels  must,  be  left  in 
charge  of  the  officials  at  the  principal  entrances.  —  Cunveniences  for  the 
use  of  visitors  are  to  be  found  oflf  the  Galerie  Mollien  and  BK.  Vn  and 
IX  of  the  picture-gallery;  keys  kept  by  the  custodians. 

Persons  defiiring  to  copy  in  the  Louvre  or  Luxembourg  apply  to  the 
AdminUtratKm  dee  Mneiee^  the  office  of  which  i^  in  the  8.W.  angle  of  the 
court  of  the  Vieux  Louvre  (PI.  M).  The '  conditions  and  regulations  are 
posted  up  in  the  various  galleries. 

The  history  of  the  **Louvre  OoUeotiona  dates  from  the  time  of  the 
French  monarchs  of  the  Renaissance  of  the  I6th  cent.,  who  were  not  only 
intimately  connected  with  Italy  in  their  political  relations,  but  paid  en- 
thusiastic homage  to  Italian  culture.  Foremost  among  patrons  of  art  and 
collectors  was  Franeie  I.  His  efforts,  however,  were  but  partly  successful  •, 
for  the  School  of  Fontainebleau,  as  the  group  of  Italian  masters  employed 
by  him  and  by  HemH  II.  is  usually  called,  exercised  no  permanent  in- 
fluence on  the  character  of  French  art.  In  the  reign  of  LovAe  XIV. ^ 
who  purchased  the  collections  of  the  banker  Jabach  and  of  Charles  I.  of 
England,  it  again  became  the  fashion  to  make  collections  of  treasures  of 
art,  both  with  persons  of  the  highest  rank  (such  as  Cardinal  Hasarin)  and 
members  of  the  middle  class  (like  Crosat).  The  royal  collections,  how- 
ever, known  collectively  as  the  ^Cabinet  du  Boi\  were  inaccessible  to  the 
pubUc.  To  the  Revolution  the  collections  of  the  Louvre  are  chiefly  in- 
debted for  their  great  extent  and  magnificence.  The  principle  of  centrali- 
sation was  then  for  the  first  time  applied  to  art  collections,  and  various 
treasures  distributed  throughout  the  royal  palaces,  in  churches,  and  in  the 
suppressed  monasteries  were  united  here  in  1793.  At  length,  when  the 
French  armies  returned  to  Paris  from  Italy,  the  Netherlands,  and  Ger- 
many, laden  with  treasures  of  art,  the  Louvre  Collection  became  f(vr 
excellence  the  museum  of  Europe  and  was  so  celebrated  under  the  name 
of  the  'Mus^e  Napoldon*,  that  the  Allies  in  1811  did  not  venture  to  restore 
its  treasures  to  tneir  former  owners.  The  act  of  restitution  was,  however, 
performed  in  1816.  but  many  fine  paintings  and  statues  still  remained  in 
Par's,  and  the  collections  of  the  Louvre  can  still  boast  of  being  the  most 
extensive  and  valuable  on  the  continent.  They  are  constantly  being  in- 
creased by  purchases,  and  still  more  by  gifts,  for  nearly  every  art-collector 
in  France  bequeaths  some  of  his  treasures  to  the  Louvre. 

The  rooms  of  the  Louvre,  most  of  which  are  connected  with 
each  other,  are  so  nnmerons  that  it  takes  2  hrs.  to  walk  through 
them  all  without  stopping,  and  it  is  indispensable  for  the  visitor  to 
be  provided  with  a  plan  for  his  guidance. 

Before  entering ,  the  visitor  should  particularly  note  that  the  — 

Gbound  Floob  contains  the  BcuVptwrt^ ,  ancient  and  modern, 
and  the  'EingT(xomg%. 

The  First  Floob  contains  the  Vxciuft^^  the  Smaller  Antiquitie8j 
the  Mediaeval,  Renaissance^  and  Modem  Art  Objects^  the  Drawings, 
and  yariouB  small  collections. 

The  Second  Floob  contains  the  MusSe  de  Marine,  another  room 
with  Paintings,  the  MusSe  Ethnograpkique ,  the  Musie  Chinois,  and 
the  Supplementary  Saloons  of  Drawings, 

Yisitora  who  have  only  a  short  time  to  devote  \.o  ^e  QiTfiLeAa^ 
should  hegin  with  the  Antique  SeulptuT€9  (p.  ^^  Wi^  ^^  P\cltea«t«» 


90  2.  LOUVBB. 

(p.  110),  wMdi  are  the  flnt  to  l>e  opened  in  the  moralng  (lee  p.  66). 
They  aie  also  recommended  to  adhere  olosely  to  the  foUowiiif 
order  of  proceeding  through  the  rooms,  so  as  to  avoid  miuainf^  fheir 
way  or  losing  time  hy  going  twice  over  the  same  ground.  Ohanges 
in  the  arrangement  are  not  infrequent;  and  at  the  time  of  going  to 
press  it  was  impracticable  to  give  definite  details  as  to  the  position 
of  the  pictures  (comp.  p.  114).  The  less  important  rooms  are  here 
described  in  small  type  or  indicated  as  such.  To  find  the  desoription 
of  any  particular  saloon,  see  the  Index. 

The  General  Director  of  the  Louvre  CoUectioiu  is  Mr,  A.  Eam^fm, 
The  Deprirtmental  Keepers  are  ifestieun  Ant  Hiron  dt  ViU^fotM  (Gtreek 
and  Roman  Antiquities),  Paul  Pierrtt  (Egyptian  Antiquities),  L,  A,  St%zg§ 
(Oriental  Antiijuities  and  Ancient  Ceramics),  A.  Michel  (Mediaeral.  BeiuUh 
sance,  and  Modem  Sculptures),  O.  Lafenestre  (Paintings),  E,  MoUmmr  (Inda- 
strial  Art),  and  Vice-Admiral  P.  E.  Mioi  (Marine  Department). 

The  authorities  caution  visitors,  by  means  of  nnmerons  notlees,  not  to 
employ  the  guides  who  assail  the  public  at  the  entrances  to  the  Galleries. 

Entranobs.  Most  of  the  Galleries  have  special  entrances  (see 
Plan).  The  Prineipal  Entrance,  leading  to  the  Gallery  of  Antiqiie 
Sculpture  and  to  the  First  Floor,  is  in  the  Pavilion  Denon  (PI.  G, 
groundfloor),  in  the  court  of  the  New  Louvre,  on  the  side  next  the 
Seine.   The  descriptions  below  and  at  p.  109  begin  here. 

A.   GROUND  FLOOR. 

The  **  Collection  of  Ancient  Sculpture  (MuUe  du  Mairhres  Anh 
tiques),  though  inferior  to  the  great  Italian  collections,  lK>a8ts  of  a 
number  of  works  of  the  highest  rank.  We  begin  our  enomeratlM 
at  the  end  next  the  Pavilion  Denon  (comp.  aboye). 

The  brief  official  catalogue  of  the  antique  sculptures,  by  A,  JST.  «b  fSb* 
/oMe,  with  illustrations  and  indexes  (189o) ,  costs  1  fr.  8o  e.  The  nev 
numbers  appear  on  the  left  side  of  the  sculptures,  but  are  sometiBiei 
lacking.  It  may  also  be  noted  that  the  labels  give  the  origin  of  the  sped* 
mens  in  large  letters  in  the  first  line,  not  the  subject  of  ue  senlptiire. 

In  the  YBSTiBuiiB  is  a  cloak-room  (optional;  comp.  p.  89).  -»  To 
the  right  is  the  Galbbib  Mollibm,  which  contains  andent  statues, 
more  or  less  mutilated  and  of  inferior  value,  a  large  Byiantine 
mosaic,  found  near  Tyre,  in  Phosnicia,  two  antique  sareophagi,  eto. 
At  the  end  is  a  staircase  ascending  to  the  French  department  ti 
the  Picture  Gallery  (PI.  K;  see  p.  131). 

Opposite  the  entrance  to  the  left  is  the  8alk  des  M^ukigeg^  formorir  a 
riding-school,  containing  a  collection  of  casts  fur  the  use  of  stodenti  (viil- 
tors  may  proceed  through  this  ruom  to  the  Chalcographie  and  %h»  OoUe^iOi 
Cirandidier,  p.  161). 

We  turn  to  the  left  in  the  vestibule  and  enter  the  — • 
Galbbib  Dbnon  ,   where  copies  of  bronzes  from  the  antlqiiti 

executed  in  the  16- 18th  cent,  at  Fontainebleau  and  Rome,  ssr- 

cophagl,  and  mutilated  antiquities  are  exhibited. 

Bronzes.    To  the  right  and  left,  Amason  (VatioanK  OonuBoAaS  SI 

Hercules  (Vatican),  Centaurs,  from  the  Capitol  \  right.  Boy  exlvaellil  •  j 

tborn  from  hia  foot  (Capitol)^  leit,  UeTcurj  C?\Qit«CLC6^ ^  Onldiia  Tsasi  1 
(Vatican),  Ariadne  (Vatican),  Antlnoue  (fi^pUoV^s  -rtig^A^  \Antftmfc.  ^^Mwak  J 


WUSEES    OU   LOUVRE 


Bo         tH        tg »u  , 


A  -  ETffj'ff  fits  saih^  ftfix  imfiqmttk     ( j .  St^tw  dra  j^usfes  du  J^ftff^ 


I 


ftsfktt/tftti'A . 

D .  Eirfrfiip  dii  ma  wee  dr^  m-it^ffytrfs 

t/arx  mnffi^vefs. 

dff  la  coSedi&t}  Gmjididifr 


II .  EMoiur  djtJt  woiMees  d^tmtbfuiiw* 

I .  EsFfalierdif  im/se**  du  Jf(JV«?f  • 
A^fi  efd/*  tit  NfyfitfSKttftve,ttr 

J .  Emdm^Stiui  B  fndjfriim  Jo 
/jf/xf ,  nrns^  df  pemtm'f',  rfr  J  . 

K  .  ^s^fflif^' da's  fftiifiif>s  fivr/it'^Jirjt 
d  sortie  de  in  (ttrmth  f^a/tn'^, 


AL  BuiYmLj-  de  I'sdnml^trvrtimt 

Not  a ,"  Jt*^  saJJes^  indiipiees  ici  a  gamhe  snrie  qttai  ne  sont 
pits  (tu  rvM-de'diaiiLssre ,  mitij^  d  itn^  aotte  lie  second  e7tlrf*.^&i. 

soiis  ia  Gnindjp  Gtil^rie 

_  ■  ^  FaviUrni  Dnmn 


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« 


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4i«]*fri*  ^rilUfti 


I  oui-  Lefuel 


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Sculptwei.  2.  LOUYBE.  91 

the  Arrotiao  or  knife-niftder  (Florenoe)|  left,  FMm  (VlMliid),  Toung 
Athlete:  to  the  right,  HedieeBn  Venus ;  at  the  end,  Diana  ^k  la  biche* 
(Louvre)  and  Apollo  Belyedere  (Vatican). 

Four  large  Bareophagi  are  also  placed  here:  3120,  with  scenes  from 
the  life  of  Achilles  (one  side  modem);  2119,  with  a  battle  of  the  Amasonf*, 
and  two  recumbent  sepulchral  figures  on  the  lid;  1385,  with  Endymion 
and  Selene;  1836,  with  Bacchus  and  Ariadne.  Between  the  last  two  is  a 
large  lion,  in  limestone. 

We  next  reach  the  Gbaitd  Esoalieb,  or  Esoalibb  Dabv,  which 
ascends  to  the  Picture  Gallery  (p.  109).  The  ceiling  of  this  stair- 
case is  decorated  with  mosaics  after  Lenepveu^  referring  to  Antiquity 
and  the  Renaissance ,  which  are  represented  by  allegorical  figures 
of  the  principal  countries,  and  by  medallions  and  the  names  of 
their  most  illustrious  artists.  —  At  the  top  stands  the  Nike  of 
Samothrace  (p.  109). 

The  room  to  the  right  of  the  staircase  contains  AntiquitieM  from 
Northern  Africa,  including  sculptures  (mostly  much  mutilated), 
inscriptions,  mosaics,  Roman  lamps,  terracottas,  etc.  Among  the 
most  notable  are:  1888  (left,  under  glass).  Bust  of  Ptolemy,  IQng  of 
Mauretania;  1783.  Head  of  Medusa  in  profile;  1838  (entrance- wall, 
to  the  right),  Relief  with  three  Elements. 

To  reach  the  sculpture-gallery  we  now  descend  either  side  of 
the  staircase.  On  the  left  side  of  the  staircase :  1339.  Tutor  and 
Nlobid  (from  Soissons).   Below  the  Escalier  Daru  is  the  — 

Salle  des  PBisoNinEBs  Babbabbs,  in  which  are  collected  the 
sculptures  in  coloured  marble.  1056.  Seated  figure  of  Minerva, 
restored  as  Roma,  in  red  porphyry,  the  fleshy  parts  in  bronze  gilt 
(modern);  1381,  1383,1385.  Statues  of  captive  barbarians ;  1354. 
So-called  African  Fisherman,  in  black  marble,  wrongly  restored  as 
Seneca;  438.  Porphyry  bath;  1389.  Chair  in  red  marble.  In  the 
middle  is  a  large  Roman  mosaic  with  rustic  scenes  and  occupations. 

RoTONDE,  with  decorations  in  stucco  by  Michel  Anguier  (1653) 
:  and  ceiling-paintings  by  Mauzaisse,  representing  the  Creation  of  Man. 
:    In  the  centre,  *866.  Borghese  Mars  (formerly  called  Achilles).   In  the 

■  first  window-niche,  fine  Greek  reliefs.  Between  the  Ist  and  2nd  win- 
dows, 890.  Statue  of  Diomede.  By  the  2nd  window,  666.  So-called 
Astrological  Altar  from  Octbiij  with  the  heads  of  the  twelve  Olympian 

.  deities  and  the  signs  of  the  zodiac.  Farther  on,  889.  Archaic  statue 
®^  a  pugilist;  884.  Archaic  Apollo.  By  the  entrance  to  the  Salle 
^recque,  867.  Female  head,  a  Greek  original  of  the  Phidian  age; 

I  ^^1.  Head  of  Ares;  926.  Sepulchral  statue  of  a  woman,  Greek. 

I        To  the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the  next  room :  *922.  Silenus 

I  ^ith  the  Infant  Bacchus,  known  as  the  *Faune  k  I'Enfant*,  of  the 

I  ^d  of  the  4th  cent  B.C.,  perhaps  after  Lysippus. 

E        This  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  those  representations  from  the  satyr 

B  £[^ld  which  were  so  much  in  vogne  daring  the  later  period  of  Greek  art. 

■  *«e  guardian  seems  to  be  pacifying  the  child  by  his  \ooYa  wi\  YSsv^-^ 

^nres,  while  the  child  smiles  to  him  and  raises  hlBleilliKn^.  c«iX^%%V^^i  • 
I  alp  of  perfect  repose  and  content  pervades  the  w'iioVe  %taw^^  *''«^«- 
•  «0S»7#  J0  enJtsnced  hy  the  admirable  ease  and  ftniah  ol  tt^^  e^^cvv\No"«v. 


92  2.  LOUVRE. 

To  the  right  of  the  Silenns,  *919.  Roman  portnlt-lieftd  of  n 
old  man. 

Turning  to  the  right,  we  now  enter  a  snite  of  apaitmonti  In  the 
wing  erected  by  Catherine  de  M^dicis  (p.  86).  The  azehway  laadtag 
to  the  first  room  is  embellished  with  a  relief  by  Chaudet,  TepreMOt- 
ing  Painting,  Sculpture,  and  Architecture. 

Sallb  db  M^oikNE,  with  ceiling-paintings  by  Ifeynier  (die WodI 
receiving  from  Hadrian  and  Justinian  laws  dictated  by  Natnref  Jul* 
tioe,  and  Wisdom) ;  the  arches  by  Biennoury  ('Sculpture*).  To  tha 
right  and  left.  Reliefs,  including  ssTeral  from  Roman  aaveophagl; 
in  the  middle,  antique  fountain.  To  the  right,  976.  Roman  alttt^  I 
frieze,  with  relief  of  the  sacrifice  of  the  Suoyetaorilia,  firom  a  Tempk 
of  Neptune  built  at  Rome  ca.  35  E.G.  By  the  first  window,  to  thi 
left:  996.  Colossal  head  of  the  Emp.  CaracaUa,  found  In  Kan- 1 
donia.    By  the  second  window,  1003.  Colossal  bust  of  Matmm 

The  next  four  rooms  chiefly  contain  sculptnxes  of  thA  ] 
imperial  epoch  and  are  comparatiyely  unimportant.    The 
paintings,  however,  are  noteworthy. 

Sallb  dbs  Saisons,  with  ceiling  by  BomaneUi  (1617-63;  JMmI 
with  Apollo,  Actson,  or  Endymion;  Apollo  and  B&rsyaa;  the  80**  I 
sons).  In  the  centre,  1121.  Statue  of  Julian  the  Apo^aU  (foaaitfl 
Paris).  To  the  right,  1021.  Bust  of  Constantino  the  Great  (f).  itti 
Slaying  of  a  bull  in  honour  of  Mithras^  found  at  the  Gapitol ;  I  ~  ~ 
god  of  day  among  the  Persians,  was  identified  among  the  ] 
with  the  god  of  the  sun.   Sarcophagus-reliefs. 

Sallb  db  la  Paix,  with  ceiling  by  RonumelU  (Peaee  u  ttij 
fruit  of  War;  Peace  and  Agriculture).  Door  of  1668.  In  the  eeBtB^I 
1075.  Statue  of  Mammaea,  mother  of  Alexander  Seyenu.  <—  0i| 
eight  granite  columns  at  the  entrance  and  exit  of  thia  xoom  1 
to  the  part  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  Cathedral  built  by  Oharl< 
were  brought  to  Paris  in  1794. 

Sallb  i>b  Sbptimb  S^y&bb,  with  ceiling  by  BomatuUi  (Poetty^ 
History  celebrating  the  warlike  fame  of  Rome;  Rape  of  the  I 
Continence  of  Scipio ;  Cincinnatus ;  Mucins  ScsYola). 
collection  of  busts  of  Roman  emperors  and  empreaaea  from  1 
Aurelius  to  Caracalla,  named  with  the  help  of  eolna 
In  the  middle,  1009.  Roman  married  pair  in  the  oharaeteif  ( 
and  Venus.   Several  Roman  reliefs  with  sacrificial  scenea; 
them,  1088.  Procession  of  seven  adults  and  two  children  (fli^^ 
of  the  Ara  Pads  erected  by  Augustus  at  Rome  in  B.0, 18-9;  <{ 
fragments  at  Rome  and  Florence). 

The  Sallb  dbs  Antonins  is  mainly  occupied  with  ¥r  ' 
statues  of  Trajan,   Hadrian,  Antoninus  Pius,  Maxeu  i 
Commodus,  iElius  Cssar,  and  Lucius  Verus,  some  of  them*" 
different  styles.    In  the  middle:  1133.  Colossal  ttatoer 
Marcus  Aureliw,  To  the  \ett,  1171.  Colossal  head  of  Lu 
of  LnciuB  Terns,  found  at  Oan\i«.%'&  Viv  \aA:i •Oi 


Seulptures.  2.  LOUYBE.  93 

paintings  of  the  flist  diyision,  by  JBomaneUt,  represent  Religion  and 
the  Theological  Virtues,  Genii,  Judith,  Moderation,  Prudence,  etc. 
Those  of  the  second  division  are  the  French  Hercules,  YiyHennequin ; 
Victory  and  the  Arts,  by  Lethitre ;  Esther  and  Ahasuerus,  by  Roma- 
neUi ;  Study  and  Fame,  by  P«yron,  etc.  —  To  the  right  is  the  — 

Sallb  d'Auoustb,  with  ceiling-painting  by  Matout  (Assembly 
of  the  gods),  executed  in  the  reign  of  Napoleon  III.   Busts  and  sta- 
tues of  the  early  Roman  emperors  are  exhibited  here.  In  the  middle 
row:  *1204.  Bead  of  a  Hellenistic  Ruler  (probably  Antiochus  III.; 
-      not  Julius  Caesar).  —  ♦1205.  Colossal  Bust  of  Antinous,  The  expres- 
^      sion  of  the  youth  is  grave  and  pensive,  and  the  elaborately-arranged 
g      hair  is  adorned  with  Bacchanalian  attributes ;  the  eyes  were  ori- 
I      ginally  of  gems  or  enamel.  — ♦1207.  Roman  Orator,  formerly  called 
I      Germanicus,  of  ideal  conception,  though  realistic  in  execution.   It 
g      is  inscribed  with  the  name  of  the  sculptor  Cleomenes  of  Athens  (on 
I      the  tortoise  at  the  foot)  and  belongs  to  the  period  of  the  revival  of 
^      Greek  art  under  the  early  Roman  emperors.  —  1208.  Bust  of 
Agrippa;  1209.  Colossal  bust  of  Roma^  with  Romulus  and  Remus 
{      on  the  sides  of  the  helmet,  each  suckled  by  a  she  -  wolf.    In  the 
J       middle  of  the  end- wall :  *1212.  Statue  of  Augustus  (head  not  be- 
,      longing  to  this  statue),  with  finely  executed  draperies;  in  front, 
1210,  1211.  TxDO  Young  Romans  with  the  Bulla.   Along  the  sides  of 
the  hall :  Busts  of  the  Julian  emperors  and  their  families ;  some  of 
the  female  heads  are  executed  with  great  delicacy. 

We  now  return  to  the  Rotonde  (p.  91) ,  whence  we  enter  the 
'      other  rooms  to  the  right. 

The  *Sallb  Gbecqub  contains  works  of  the  culminating  period 
of  Greek  plastic  art,  and  that  immediately  before  and  after  it  (5th 
cent.  B.C.).  Everything  here  is  worthy  of  careful  inspection,  though 
'      ^01  the  most  part  sadly  mutilated. 

In  the  centre,  three  mutilated  statues,  in  the  archaic  style: 
^     *686.  Juno^  from  Samos,  probably  of  the  6th  cent.;  687,  688.  Two 
>    iftgures  otApoUOy  from  Actium.  Also,  under  glass,  691 .  Head  of  Apollo 
^,     (diier  an  original  of  the  5th  cent.  B.C.)  and,  opposite,  695.  Archaic 
a-     liead  from  Athens,  with  wreath  and  curled  hair  (6th  cent.  B.C.). 
y\         To  the  right,  below,  by  the  wall  next  to  the  Rotonde:  ^696. 
o'   ^I?hiee  ReUefs  from  the  Island  of  Thasos,  found  in  1864. 
is-,  ^^  These  three  reliefs  originally  formed  one  whole,  which,  as  we  learn 
(^  -Sn?^  ^^  ancient  inscriptions,  belonged  to  a  sanctnary  sacred  to  Apollo,  the 
tTi '  JJftaritiea  (Graces) ,  and  the  ITymphs.    The  inscription  in  larger  letters  at 
"     ^^^  top  is  of  later  origin,  and  refers  to  the  use  of  the  reliefs  in  adorning 
'  ^   tomb  in  the  Roman  period.    From  each  side  of  the  central  niche  step 
^Ur  goddesses,  holding  garlands  and  blossoms  in  their  hands;   those  on 
'^  left  are  accompanied  by  Apollo,  those  on  the  right  by  Hermes.    In 
I  and  movement  the  stifniess  and  angularity  of  the  archaic  school  are 
visible,  but  the  vitality  and  variety  of  the  motives,  as  well  «a  \Xi^ 
^<t  arrangement  and    execution  of  the  drapery,  betok.eii  ib^^  ^et\c)^  qV 
ikflition  to  a  more  perfect  style.    The  work  tiius  probabV^  ^«A.«&  Itoxcv 
>  end  of  Oie  6th  or  the  beginDing  of  the  6th  cent.  B.C. 


94  2.  LOUYRB. 

Above :  *738.  Fragment  of  the  Frie%e  of  the  Parihmhom,  the  ed- 
ebrated  temple  of  Athena  on  the  Acropolis  at  Athens,  exeeatad  bf 
Phidias  and  his  pupils. 

The  frieee,  which  ran  round  the  walls  of  the  temple  wUhla  the  oolo»> 


nade ,  represents  the  festive  procession  which  ascended  to  the  AerMoUf 

Jeplos,  or  robe  woven  and  embroidered  hy  Atlmilai 
the  reliefs  are  in  London  and  Athens.   The  fragment  ] 


PanathenKan  games  for  the  purpose  of  jpresentliif  ttie 
peplos,  or  robe  woven  and  embroidered  by  ^*^^*ft^ 


after  the 

with  the 

The  rest 

here  represents  young  Athenian  girls  with  vessels,  and  two'prleats,  advaa* 

cing  in  solemn  procession. 

Still  higher:  *736.  Metope  from  the  Parthenon  (mndh  matflatad), 
representing  a  Centaur  carrying  off  a  woman. 

Adjacent,  to  the  right,  716.  Hercnles  subduing  the  OietsA  Bill, 
and  to  the  left,  717.  Athena  sitting  on  a  rock,  two  metopaa  tarn 
the  Temple  of  Zeus  at  Olympia,  excavated  by  the  Frendh  in  1829, 
and  in  tolerable  preservation.  Compared  with  Attio  aonlptuss, 
these  works,  dating  from  about  460  B.C.,  are  somewba*  dieflfl^f* 
in  grace,  but  they  are  full  of  freshness  and  vigour. 

Below,  to  the  left:  *854.  AUic  relief  of  Hermee^  Ofphmu^'tmi 
Eurydice,  an  admirable  example  of  the  simple  and  yet  majastle 
style  of  the  best  period  of  Greek  art. 

'Orpheus  was  permitted  to  bring  back  his  wife  Burydiee  froim  fhs 
infernal  regions  to  the  light  of  day  on  condition  that  he  should  not  loot 
at  her  on  the  way;  but  he  failed  to  fulfil  the  eonditton.  Hamus,  ftt 
leader  of  the  dead,  gently,  but  firmly  grasps  the  hand  of  Burydlea  to  eoi- 
duct  her  back  to  the  empire  of  shades.  In  this  simple  and  baanttftil  eosi- 
position  are  traceable  a  whole  series  of  different  phases  of  hope  and  pslB< 
The  advance  of  the  procession,  the  turning  round  of  Ohrphens ,  the  eoal^ 
dential  communing  of  the  pair,  the  halt,  and  the  impeadimf  zetamof 
Eurydice  are  all  distinctly  pourtrayed\  Kikuli,  —  There  ara  vep|i«s  ef 
the  work  at  ITaples  and  Borne.  The  inscription  *Zetu8,  ijitiope,  '  "'  ' 
over  the  figures  is  of  the  Benai^sance  period. 

To  the  right  of  the  first  window  on  the  side  next  the 
*766.  Tomb  Relief  ofPhilis,  daughter  of  Cleomedes,  firom  Thaioi. 

The  deceased  is  here  represented,  as  was  the  custom  oh  AttIo  sistaii 
in  a  scene  of  daily  life,  with  a  jewel-case  in  her  hand.    A  peoolliir 
cs  of  I 


is  lent  to  this  relief  by  the  faint  lingering  characteristics 

art  and  by  the  simple  and  natural  feeling  of  the  representation. 

Above,  701.  Tomb -relief  of  two  girls  with  flowers  (from  Phs^ 
salus). 

This  work  stands  on  the  border  between  the  archaic  and  the  developed 
style.  It  is  marked  by  a  tender  and  naive  naturalism,  but  Is  taHulor  b 
delicacy  of  execution  to  contemporary  Attic  works. 

697.  Archaic  relief  from  the  arm  of  a  throne,  with  AgamamniB 
and  his  heralds,  Talthybius  and  Epeius  (from  Samothzaa^.  QUmr 
case  containing  fragments  from  the  temple  at  Olympia  («•• 
460B.C.).  —  Between  the  windows :  835.  Torso  of  a  yoathlU  httO^ 
'  formerly  called  Alexander  the  Great  or  Inopus  (a  river-god  on  Hi 
island  of  Delos,  where  the  statue  was  found).  692.  Head  of  ApoQk 
In  the  middle,  in  front  of  the  second  window,  Tablets  with  Atiunkt 
decreeB'j  on  the  walls,  votive  bas-ieliefs^  to  the  right,  867.  UM 
pulling  down  a  bull.  By  the  thitd  ^w^3i^o^\  ^TfflkSwX^ 


8eulpture$.  2.   LOUYBE.  95 

In  front  of  the  end-wall,  766.  Sepulchral  Gonch,  found  in 
liacedonla. 

On  the  side  next  the  court,  to  the  left  of  the  entrance :  850. 
Bead  of  a  youth  (from  Cos);  849.  Colossal  head  of  Demetrius 
Poliorcetes  (more  probably  Seleucus  Nicator) ;  848.  Bust  of  a  veiled 
Foman  (so-called  Aspasia) ;  847.  Minerva  from  Crete  (perhaps  copy 
)f  a  statue  by  Alkamenes,  a  pupil  of  Phidias).  By  the  window :  In- 
scriptions, including  a  MarhU  Stele  (No.  831),  brought  from  Athens 
by  Choiseul-GouffleT,  with  inscriptions,  recording  the  sums  spent  by 
^he  treasurers  of  the  Parthenon  in  the  3rd  and  4th  years  of  the  92nd 
Dlympiad  (B.C.  410-409).  Above,  relief  of  Athena,  the  sacred  ollve- 
760,  and  the  Archon  Glaucippus.  —  Then:  830.  Bust  of  a  Greek 
ithlete,  called  Theseus  (^) ;  829.  Female  figure  (not  a  daughter  of 
Niobe);  architectural  fragments  from  Macedonia  and  Epirus. 


Paintings  on  the  ceiling  and  walls:  Diana  and  Jupiter,  by  Fmd^Kon; 
rcules  receiving  from  Diana  the  stag  with  the  golden  horns,  by  Oar* 
Uer;  Diana  restoring  to  Aricia  Hippolytns  resuscitated  by  iBsculapins,  by 


Uirimie,     Senlptares:  Bas-reliefs    by   CartelUer^  E»parei€u,  and  Foucou; 
MWts  of  Jean  Goufcn'*  sculptures  on  the  Escalier  Henri  II.  (p.  99). 

We  proceed  in  a  straight  direction,  leaving  the  Salle  des  Cari- 
itides  (p.  98)  on  the  left,  and  the  Salle  du  Tibre  (p.  97)  on  the  right. 

CoBBiDOB  DB  Pan.  To  the  right,  near  the  end :  266.  Sitting 
figure  of  Pan,  of  poor  workmanship,  and  freely  restored. 

Sallb  du  Saboophaob  db  M^niB.  To  the  right :  *283.  Sarco- 
phagus adorned  with  a  representation  of  the  myth  of  Medea.  *285. 
Etesting  satyr  (bas-relief). 

Sallb  db  l'Hbbmaphboditb  db  Ybllbt&i.  In  the  window 
recess :  323.  Hermaphrodite  of  VelUtri  (comp.  p.  98).  To  the  right, 
324.  Wounded  Oaul^  replica  of  a  Pergamenian  work. 

Sallb  du  Sabcophaob  d' Adonis.  To  the  right:  842.  Roman 
lareophagus  with  Tritons  and  Nereids.  Upon  it,  843.  Statuette  of 
Eur^idesj  with  a  list  of  his  works.  On  the  wall  above :  347.  Front 
>f  a  sarcophagus,  with  reliefs  in  three  scenes,  representing  Adonis 
itarting  for  the  hunt,  being  wounded  by  the  boar,  and  dying  in 
sresenoe  of  the  mourning  Aphrodite. '—  In  the  entrance  to  the  next 
'com,  to  the  left,  366.  Statue  of  Aphrodite  in  Coic  raiment,  pro- 
>al>ly  after  Praxiteles  (inscription  on  the  base). 

Sallb  db  Pstoh^.  To  the  right :  379.  Psyche  (freely  restored), 
)etween  busts  of  the  youthful  Hercules  (378;  wrongly  called  Om- 
>hale)  and  Perseus,  King  of  Macedonia  (?  881).  To  the  left,  two 
Lne  marble  chairs.  387.  Athlete  anointing  himself  with  oil.  375. 
Victorious  Athlete. 

Sallb  db  la  ViSnus  db  Milo,  dedicated  to  the  ♦♦  Venus  of  Milo, 
he  most  celebrated  of  the  treasures  of  the  Louvre  (No.  399).   'This 
8   the    only  statue  of  Aphrodite  handed  down  to  us  which  re- 
>re8ents  her  not  merely  as  a  beautiful  woman ,  but  «^s  «b  %<(^\^^%^> 
rhe  form  is  powerful  and  majestic,  and  yet  inatiiiCt'^VXv  w^\sw- 
lescTibBhle  cbarm  of  youth  and  beauty,  "wMle  t^e-^Mt^  wv^t^^X^ 


96  2.   LOUVRE. 

expression  of  the  head  denotes  the  goddess's  independence  of  sll 
human  lequiiements  and  the  calm  self-snffloieney  of  her  difine 
character.  The  fact  that  this  beautiful  woik,  notwithstanding  its 
great  excellence ,  is  not  one  of  those  which  hare  been  BpeoiaUy 
extolled  by  ancient  authors ,  affords  us  an  approximate  idea  of  the 
beauty  of  those  lost  masterpieces  which  formed  the  great  maryel  of 
antiquity*  (Liibke). 

The  statae  was  found  in  1820  by  a  peasant  in  the  lalaad  of  JMm, 
now  Milo,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Greek  Archipelago,  and  sold  for  6000  fr. 
to  the  French  government.  It  is  the  work  of  a  school  whieh  was  oc»> 
temporary  with  the  schools  of  Praxiteles  and  8copa$  (4th  cent.  B.C.),  hat 
had  a  very  different  style  from  either.  On  the  ancient  monomeats  Aphnh 
dite  and  Nike,  in  attitudes  similar  to  that  of  this  work,  are  eaeh  rsfn- 
sented  singly,  holding  a  shield ;  and  the  same  attitode  is  obsenrea  la 
groups  of  Aphrodite  with  Ares.  The  weight  of  evidence  la  the  pisssat 
case  is  in  favour  of  the  view  that  the  goddess  stood  alone,  holding  a  shield 
as  a  symbol  of  victory  in  her  hand  Among  various  fragaaents  fbnad 
along  with  the  statue  were  part  of  a  left  arm  and  a  left  hand,  the  olossJ 
fingers  of  which  hold  an  apple  (now  preserved  in  a  glass-casa  trj  ths 
first  window  to  the  left) ;  and  this  has  naturally  led  some  of  the  Fraaoh 
savants  to  suppose  that  this  Aphrodite  held  an  apple  Ibl  her  npUltod  lift 
hand  and  her  drapery  with  the  right  The  hand  is,  however*  of  interior 
workmanship  to  the  torso,  so  that  it  is  probably  eltiier  altogether  na- 
connected  with  it,  or  belonged  to  an  ancient  attempt  to  restore  the  wmk. 

Salle  db  Melpomene.  By  the  wall  at  the  back:  411. 
Melpomene^  one  of  the  largest  ancient  statues  in  existence  (18  ft. 
in  height),  from  Borne,  and  probably  from  Pompey's  Theatre.  -^ 
The  large  mosaic  in  front,  by  Francois  BeUoni  (after  Gerard),  le- 
presents  the  genius  of  Napoleon  I.  (in  the  character  of  Mlneira] 
gaining  victories  that  she  may  inaugurate  peace  and  plenty  (1810). 
—  To  the  right  and  left  of  Melpomene :  420,  414.  Stotues  of  Yaow 
restored  as  Euterpe  (a  type  of  the  Phidian  era).  To  the  right,  by 
the  back-window,  421.  Replica  of  the  head  of  the  Onldlan  Yeniu 
of  Praxiteles.  To  the  right  of  the  exit,  *419.  Idtal  Femaft  fleod. 

Salle  de  la  Pallas  ve  Vblletbi.  In  the  centre :  *436.  BuiC  fl/ 
Alexander  the  Oreat,  probably  after  a  portrait;  *489.  Vemu  ofArUt^ 
found  in  1651  at  Aries  in  Provence,  and  perhaps  a  replica  of  an  eiily 
work  by  Praxiteles.  —  *440.  Head  of  Homer  (upper  part  of  a  hernia]^ 
of  the  well-known  type ;  the  sunken  features,  sightleai  eye-btUi) 
and  slightly-opened  mouth  are  all  characteristic  of  the  anotont  OOB- 
ception  of  the  inspired  singer  in  his  old  age. 

*441.  Apollo  SauroctonuSy  Hhe  lizard-slayer',  a  copy  of  a  nvrt 
by  Praxiteles ;  the  right  hand  originally  held  a  dart,'  with  which  U 
was  about  to  transfix  the  reptile. 

The  easy  attitude,  the  charming  abandon  of  the  figure  alaaost  ftvi^ 
nine  in  its  forms,  the  ideal  beauty  of  the  countenance,  the  peifeet  fir 
portion  of  the  limbs  are  so  many  distinctive  maiks  of  the  fealas  of  ttl 
great  Athenian  sculptor*.    (Froehner.) 

442.  Vase  of  Sosibius^  with  a  curious  representation  of  a  faitiit 
dance  of  Satyrs  and  Maenads  round  a  sacrificial  altar,  appvoaahedt| 
Diana,  Apollo,  Hermes,  and'BaccW^. 

To  the  right,  in  retracing  o\x.i  ate^%-.  ^ti.  BatavifyMiiqiin  a(  *» 


Sculptures.  2.  LOUVRE.  97 

Muses,  on  which  are  represented  the  Nine  Muses  in  the  following 
order,  from  left  to  right:  Clio,  Thalia,  Terpsichore,  Euterpe,  Poly- 
hymnia, Calliope,  Erato,  Urania,  and  Melpomene.  On  the  right 
end  are  a  philosopher  or  poet  and  a  Muse ;  on  the  left,  Socrates  and 
a  Muse ;  on  the  top,  a  festival.  —  *464.  Pallas  of  Vdletrij  whence 
the  saloon  derives  its  name,  a  Roman  copy  of  a  Greek  hronze  orig- 
inal of  the  5th  cent.  B.C.,  found  in  1797  at  Velletri  near  Rome.  In 
the  right  hand  was  a  spear,  in  the  left  perhaps  a  cup  or  a  small  Nike 
(Victoria).  —  469.  Sarcophagus  with  reliefs  of  the  legend  of  Action. 
444.  Statue  restored  as  Urania. — By  the  window- wall,  608.  Circular 
base  with  representations  of  Luna  and  Oceanus.  In  the  window- 
niche  to  the  left,  510.  Ideal  female  head  (Greek).  —  At  the  entrance 
to  the  next  room,  522.  So-called  Atalanta,  more  probably  a  wrongly 
restored  Diana. 

Salle  bv  H^bos  Combattant.  In  the  centre:  *526.  Venus 
Oerutrix  (so  named  from  a  medal),  a  good  Roman  copy  of  a  Greek 
work  of  the  6th  cent,  attributed  to  Alkamenes.  626.  Hercules  or 
Theseus.  —  ♦627.  Borghese  Oladiator  (*H^ro8  Combattant'),  found 
at  Antium  near  Rome,  in  one  of  the  imperial  palaces.  The  inscription 
records  that  it  was  executed  by  *Agasias^  son  of  Dositheps  of  Ephe- 
sus',  a  sculptor  of  the  Ist  cent.  B.C.,  who  seems  to  have  here  repro- 
dnoed  a  work  of  the  end  of  the  4th  century. 

*The  statue  is  rather  to  be  regarded  as  that  of  a  hero  fighting.  The 
right  arm  is  modern,  while  the  left  arm  and  the  strap  of  the  shield  are 
preserved.  Opposite  the  hero  we  mnst  suppose  an  Amazon  on  horseback 
or  standing  on  a  rock  above,  against  whom  the  hero  is  defending  him- 
self with  his  shield  by  a  movement  of  his  left  arm,  while  with  his  right 
he  is  directing  the  stroke  of  his  sword  with  eager  look.  The  month  is 
open,  as  if  the  hero,  like  Homer's  warriors,  were  shouting  to  his  adver- 
sary. The  expression  of  the  face  is  indicative  of  a  supreme  and  yet  con- 
trolled effort  of  strength.  The  distinctness  with  which  the  simultaneous 
aets  of  defence  and  attack  are  expressed  in  this  master-work  has  led  to 
the  belief  that  the  figure  did  not  originally  stand  alone,  but  was  placed 
opposite  some  antagonist,  without  whom  the  hero*s  attitude  would  be 
comparatively  meaningless.*    Welcktr. 

528.  Head  of  a  young  satyr,  known  as  the  ^Faune  h  la  t€Uihe\ 
—  *629.  Diana  of  Oabiij  a  charming  work,  probably  a  copy  after 
Praxiteles.  —  To  the  left ,  in  retracing  our  steps :  673.  Mercury 
(the  *Richelien  Mercury*) ;  562.  Borghese  Centaur ,  or  Centaur  sub- 
dued by  Cupid,  resembling  one  of  the  Capltoline  Centaurs ;  552. 
Wounded  Amazon  (freely  restored).  On  the  other  side :  530.  Mi- 
nerva Pacifloa;  636.  Fine  head  of  Oanymede  or  Paris;  536.  Cupid 
and  Psyche;  *642.  Marsyas,  bound  to  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  in  order  to 
be  flayed  alive  at  Apollo's  command ;  in  front,  639.  Sarcophagus  of 
Meleager  (modern),  on  which  lie  the  fragments  of  a  Graeco-Egyptian 
map  of  the  stars  (540) ;  *644.  Admirable  Greek  Bust,  of  the  time  of 
Lysippns;  646.  Cupid. 

Sallb  du  Tibbe.  In  the  centre :  688.  Unknown  Greek.  ^q^X..  — 
•689.  Diana  d  la  Hehe  oi  Diana  of  Versailles^  probabVy  «.  le^W^i^.  ^i  ^ 
work  of  the  time  of  Praxiteles  and  Scopas. 

.  Parig.  Utb  Edit.  7 


98  2.  LOUYRE.         AneUni 


ig  fMt,  seiKM  an  arrow.  She  i»  looUaf  TOvad  u  If 

The  expreasion  of  faoe  is  grave,  the  ranilMad  Uih 

ager.    The  roe  miming  l>eiide  her  ***i^fc*ipf  ae 


The  goddess,  walking  fMt,  seisses  an  arrow. 
in  search  of  fresh  game.   The  expression  of  fae 
and  severe,  the  eyes  eager.    The  roe  running 
impression  of  the  rapid  strides  of  the  goddess. 

*693.  Colosial  Ood  of  the  Tiber,  lecumbent,  with  Bonrahu  and 
Remus  and  the  she-wolf  by  his  side,  probably  a  woric  of  tito  early 
Roman  empire,  an  admirable  companion  to  the  celebiaied  gnmp  of 
the  Nile  in  the  Vatican  (reproduction  in  the  Tnileries  Garden,  p.  154). 
On  the  left  and  right:  696,  694.  FluU-playing  8a^yr$,  -—  Behind, 
697-600.  Four  colossal  Satyrs  bearing  a  frieze. 

To  the  left,  on  the  window-side:  677.  Bust  of  a  satyr  QVna,  of 
Aries'). — By  the  second  window,  *672.  So-called  AUar  of  the  TwOoe 
QodSy  a  large  triangular  base. 

Each  of  the  three  sides  is  divided  into  two  equal  parts,  tha  vppar  part 
containing  four  figures,  the  lower,  three.  First  side:  Jupiter,  Jvao,  jTep* 
tune,  Geres i  the  Three  Graces.  Second  side  (left):  Man,  Yemu,  Xemry, 
Vesta;  the  Three  Fates.  Third  side:  Apollo,  Diaaa,  Valean,  WmBKrt\ 
three  Hours  or  Seasons. 

By  the  last  window :  *664.  Fragment  of  a  replica  of  the  Jleitiiif 
Satyr  of  Praxiteles ;  665.  Smaller  copy  of  the  same  tono.  In  the 
recess  to  the  left  of  the  entrance:  660.  So-called  Zingaiella,  a  statue 
of  Diana,  with  head,  arms,  and  feet  in  bronze  (modem).— -In  front  of 
the  window :  2240.  Crouching  Venus,  from  Yienne  (another  opposite). 
—  Rear  wall:  622.  Resting  Bacchus;  639.  .^soalapini;  68d.  Head 
of  a  youth,  archaic;  640.  So-called  'Talleyrand  Zens',  arohsiatlc. 

We  now  turn  to  the  right,  cross  the  Corridor  de  Pan  (p.  85), 
and  enter  the  — 

Sallb  DBS  Cabiatides,  so  called  from  the  cary&tides  at  the  oAff 
end,  originally  an  ante-chamber  (*Salle  des  Gardes*)  of  the  apart- 
ments of  Catherine  de  MMicis. 

Here,  on  Aug.  19th,  1672,  the  Princess  Margaret  of  Valola,  rista*  of 
Charles  IX..  was  married  to  the  young  Protestant  King  of  XaTinre  (after- 
wards Henri  IV.  of  France).  Admiral  Goljgny  and  many  ottier  HnraoMil 
leaders  were  present  at  the  ceremony.  Five  days  later,  on  the  Kw%  of 
St.  Bartholomew  (Aug:  23rd),  Charles  IX.,  at  the  instigation  of  Us  mother, 
Catherine  de  Medicis,  gave  the  order  for  the  massacre  of  ttia  HugaeBoto 
(p.  87)  and  the  arrest  of  King  Henry.  It  was  in  this  saloon  that  the  line 
iield  its  meetings  in  1693,  and  that  the  Due  de  Guise  (reeoneOed  wn 
Henry  owing  to  the  latter's  renunciation  of  Protestantism)  emoMd  ftmr  rf 
its  most  sealous  members  to  be  hanged  the  following  year.  Thit  hody  nf 
Henry  lay  in  state  here  after  Lis  assassination  in  1610.  In  1669  the  lOon  vil 
used  as  a  theatre  by  Holi^re,  who  acted  here  in  his  own  fBtmttahle  jpliva 

We  first  enter  a  kind  of  vestibnle,  which  eontalns,  by  Ai 
farther  wall,  a  chimney -piece  execnted  by  Pereie^  and  FbiiliiftM 
in  1806.  In  front  of  the  chimney-piece :  76  HereuU$^  with  Ids  M 
Telephw  and  the  hind  by  which  the  latter  was  suekled.  .^  To  the 
left,  by  the  window,  231.  Borghese  Hermaphrodite,  of  the  laM 
Greek  period,  and  too  sensuous  in  style.  The  mattress  Is  ui«B" 
happy  idea  of  Bernini  (17th  cent.). 

In  the  Salle  proper,  between  two  pillars :  *78.  "^iff^f  rr  rf  TgrtriWli 
a  colossal  torso  on  a  modem  stand;  *no  extant  andeat  status  sfW 
ruler  of  Olympus  produces  a  moid  imi^iQaa\N^  ftUft^^BaiiaBLthls'(ft<h 


Ariatie  Museum.  2.  LOUYRE.  99 

ner).  To  the  right,  80.  Statue  of  a  Greek  philosopher  (Posidonius  ?). 
To  the  left,  79.  Seated  philosopher,  with  a  head  of  Demosthenes 
from  another  statue. 

In  the  centre :  81.  OretteB  and  Pyladet  (Mercury  and  Apollo?), 
of  the  school  of  Pasiteles  (1st  cent.  B.G.);  82.  Ancient  hasin  of 
Sicilian  alabaster,  so  placed  that  the  faintest  whisper  uttered  at  its 
edge  is  distinctly  audible  to  an  ear  at  the  edge  of  the  similar  basin 
(90)  at  the  other  end;  83.  Hermes  in  the  act  of  fastening  his  sandals; 
86.  Reposing  Bacchus ;  86.  Borgheae  Vase ,  with  Bacchanalian  re- 
presentations;  *87.  Young  Dionysus  (the  ^Richelieu Bacchus');  89. 
Discobolus.  —  The  four  ♦Caryatides  bearing  the  gallery  at  the  end 
were  executed  by  Jean  Ooujon  (p.  104).  Above  it  is  a  cast  of  Cellini's 
Nymph  of  Fontainebleau  (p.  106). 

Round  the  walls,  from  right  to  left :  149.  Large  Candelabrum  re- 
constructed by  Piraneai  in  die  18th  cent  from  ancient  fragments ; 
63.  Venus  in  the  Bath,  crouching  so  as  to  allow  a  nymph  to  pour 
water  over  her  back  (fireely  restored);  40.  Boy  with  a  goose;  91. 
^Minerve  au  eoUier\  a  mediocre  reproduction  of  the  type  of  Phi- 
dias's  Athena  Parthenos ;  18.  Crouching  Venus  C  Vinus  h  la  coquille'). 

Antique  Brontes^  see  p.  142;  Terracottas^  Vases^  etc.,  p.  148. 

The  Escalier  Henri  JL,  in  the  Pavilion  de  I'Horloge,  adjoining 
the  Salle  des  Cariatides,  ascends  to  the  principal  collections  on  the 
first  floor  (see  plans,  pp.  86,  87 ;  Collection  La  Caze,  p.  141).  It 
is,  however,  better  to  ascend  by  the  grand  staircase,  reached  by 
returning  through  the  Salle  des  Cariatides,  and  turning  to  the  right. 
The  Escalier  Henri  II.  is  decorated  with  sculptures  by  Jean  Ooujon, 

Visitors  who  have  time  to  spare  should  pass  out,  by  the  side 
of  the  Escalier  Henri  II.,  into  the  Court  of  the  Old  Louvre,  in  order 
.to  inspect  the  following  collections,  which  are  open  daily  from  11. 


I  The  *AsiaUo  Xiueiim  (Musie  des  AntiquUSs  Asiatiques)  contains 

I  one-half  of  the  yield  of  the  excavations  made  on  the  site  of  the  an- 
.  clent  Assur  and  Nineveh  by  M.  Botta  and  Sir  A.  H.  Layard  (the  other 
'     half  being  in  the  British  Museum),  and  also  antiquities  collected 

by  sdentiflc  missions  and  private  individuals  in  other  parts  of  Asia. 

—  The  entrance  is  in  the  passage  under  the  colonnade  (p.  88),  to 

the  left  in  coming  from  the  Cour  du  Louvre  (B  on  the  Plan,  p.  87). 
Room  I  (Grande  Galerie) :  Assyrian  Anliquities,  The  kingdom  of 

Assyria  or  Assur,  the  land  of  the  Nimrod  of  the  Bible,  lay  on  the  left 

bank  of  the  Tigris,  its  capital  being  AssuTy  and  afterwards  Nineveh. 

The  Assyrians  conquered  the  Babylonian  empire  about  B.C.  1250, 
'     and  afterwards  extended  their  supremacy  as  far  as  Asia  Minor.   The 

excavations  have  brought  to  light  remains  of  extensive  palaces,  the 
1    chambers  of  which  were  lined  with  alabaster  slabs,  bearing  %<^«cv&%^ 
i    flrom  the  lives  of  the  Assyrian  monarchs,  similai  to  t\iO%^  o\i  ^^ 
^    Egyptian  mannmentB ,  And  etUl  more  lifelike.    Bxvii\.iTi%-%<^^^^^^ 
7  ^* 


100  2.   LOUVRE. 

battlefields ,  and  sieges  alternate  with  others  representiiig  thfl  kiag 
in  his  conrt  or  among  his  guards ,  and  accompanied  1>7  flgmet  of 
fantastic  monsters.  The  inscriptions  are  in  cnneifonn  eliaxaetAr,  ox 
wedge-shaped  and  angular  signs  placed  horizontally  and  ohtUqndy. 
Most  of  the  sculptures  exhibited  here  belonged  to  the  paUoa  of  King 
Sennacherib  (B.C.  722-705)  at  Khorsabad,  to  that  of  Nimiod  (iOth 
cent.),  or  to  that  of  Sardanapalns  V .  at  NineTeh  (7th  cent.). 

Most  of  the  gigantic  *  Winged  Bttlls  come  from  the  palaoa  nired  at 
the  modern  Ehorsabad  by  Sennacherib  or  Sargon.  These  were  plaeed, 
like  the  Egyptian  sphinxes,  at  the  entrances  to  great  buildings,  aad  fheir 
human  heads  wearing  a  tiara  seem  to  leave  no  doubt  that  ther  wtn 
personifications  of  kings.  Like  the  sphinxes,  too.  these  animals  BymbollMA 
the  onion  of  strength  and  intelligence ;  and  wings  are  freqaently  flmad 
as  the  emblem  of  power  on  Assyrian  monuments.  —  The  CoImhU  i" 


at  the  back-wall  also  adorned  the  entrance  to  the  palaoe.  The  llnra 
who,  without  apparent  effort  and  without  passion,  are  emahlngliau 
against  their  breasts  represent  the  Assyrian  Hercules.  In  the  SpMM 
between  these  figures  are  bas-reliefs  of  royal  cort^m,  a  king  and  a  prieiL 
a  king  sacrificing  an  antelope  to  a  god,  etc.  The  details  on  tlMse  aat 
other  reliefs  have  an  important  historical  value;  while  certain  pocttoal, 
especially  the  horses,  are  of  admirable  workmanship.  In  tbe  centre  ^ 
the  room:  Kine  headless  statues,  two  heads,  and  other  Chaldean  aatt- 
quities;  finely-designed  Door  Frame. 

Visitors  who  are  pressed  for  time  may  pass  henoe  immediately 
to  the  Egyptian  Museum  (p.  101). 

Rooms  II  &  III:  Phoenician  Sarcophagi,  in  hlaok  and  white 
marble.  —  In  the  middle:  Basalt  Saireophagui  of  King  Emnwmat 
of  Sidon,  with  the  longest  known  Phoenician  inscription. 

The  Phoenicians,  whose  chief  settlements  were  on  the  Syrian  eoast, 
possessed  important  colonies  on  every  part  of  the  Hedltmranean,  and  wwi 
the  earliest  traders  between  the  East  and  West.  To  them  we  arelnddMsl 
for  our  modern  system  of  writing,  as  they  were  the  first  to  rijeet  tbe 
cumbrous  Egyptian  style  and  to  adopt  a  simple  sign  for  each  simple  sooad. 
They  also  exercised  no  small  influence  on  the  earlier  stages  of  Greek  art.— 
Comp.  ^Notice  sommaire  des  monuments  ph^niciens*,  par  B,  L&drafm  HB  ^)* 

Room  IY,  to  the  left,  contains  Phoenician  antiqijitiea  and  othen 
from  Syria  and  Cyprus.  Among  these  are  a  Fom,  12  ft.  In  diameter, 
from  Amathus  in  Gyprus,  hewn  out  of  a  single  block  of  stonei  uA 
seven  statues  ftom  the  same  island.  —  The  — 

Salle  db  Milet  contains  sculptures  from  Miletus  and  HendM 
in  Asia  Minor,  and  also  fragments  from  the  TempU  ofApoUo^ 
Didyma.  In  the  centre :  Two  colossal  bases  of  columns  from  ^ 
same  temple.  At  the  back:  Statues  (headiest)  wMeli  adomei 
the  theatre,  in  the  Gree'k  style.  Mutilated  statues  from  the  NeoO" 
polls ,  in  the  Assyrian  style.  On  the  upper  part  of  the  walla,  Bm- 
reliefs  from  the  temple  of  Assos,  in  Mysia,  specimens  of  pxlmllht 
Ionian  art.  —  The  — 

Salle  db  Maon^sib  du  M^andbb  contains  fragments  of  Hi 
TempU  of  Artemis  Leucophryene  (^Diana  of  the  white  eyelmnN^ 
at  Magnesia,  near  Ephesus,  of  a  late  period.  The  *Friezey  one  <f  Hi 
most  extensive  relief-compositions  of  ancient  times,  alMnt  88  |Ah 
in  length,  represents  wild  coiite&\;ft  ^)et^^«tv  Qia«3&%  and 


Egyptian  Mfitewn.        2.  LOUYBE.  101 

We  also  observe  a  Vase  from  Pergamus,  with  leliefs  of  yoang  Greeks 
on  horseback ;  and  a  statue  of  Diana  firom  Phrygia. 

The  Sallb  Jvdaique,  to  the  right,  under  the  staircase ,  contains 
'  Jewish  antiquities  from  Palestine  and  the  neighbouring  countries, 
such  as  sarcophagi  from  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings,  architectural  frag- 
ments, reliefs,  pottery,  Moabite  sculptures,  and  inscriptions.  In  the 
centre  of  this  room  is  the  famous  basalt  Stele  of  King  Mesa  ofMoab, 
whose  battles  with  the  Jews  in  B.C.  896  are  recorded  by  the  inscrip- 
tion. This  is  the  oldest  known  example  of  alphabetic  writing.  Oomp. 
'Notice  des  monuments  provenant  de  la  Palestine' ,  by  A.  Hiron  de 
ViUefosse  (60  c.)-  —  Adjacent  is  a  small  Sallb  Punique,  with  an- 
tiquities from  Carthage. 

Opposite,  under  the  colonnade,  is  a  Qallery  of  Ccuts  of  sculptures 
discovered  by  the  Ecole  Fran^ise  of  Athens  in  the  course  of  excavations 
at  Delphi  and  Delos.  These  include  an  Antinous,  a  replica  of  the  Dia- 
dumenos  of  Polycletns,  two  heads  of  Caryatides,  friezes,  metopes,  two 
archaic  figures  of  Apollo,  a  seated  Sphinx,  etc. 

Continuation  of  the  Asiatic  Collections,  on  the  first  floor,  to  which 
the  adjoining  staircase  ('Escalier  Asiatique')  ascends,  see  p.  145. 


The  ^Egyptian  Xnsenm  (Music  des  AntiqvitSs  Egyptiennesjy  one 
of  the  most  important  collections  of  the  kind  in  Europe,  affords,  so 
far  as  is  possible  without  the  appropriate  architectural  surroundings, 
an  almost  complete  survey  of  the  religion,  customs,  and  art-life  of 
the  most  ancient  of  ciyilised  nations.  The  exhibits  are  provided  with 
explanatory  labels.  'Description  Sommaire'  by  E.  de  Rouge,  with 
illnstrations,  1  fr.  65  c.  Entrance,  opposite  that  of  the  Asiatic  Mu- 
seum, to  the  right  when  approached  from  the  court  (A  on  the 
Ground-plan). 

We  first  enter  the  Sallb  Hbxbi  IY.,  which  contains  the  largest 
objects  in  the  collection.  Among  these  are  the  Sphinxes,  fantastic 
figures  with  lions*  bodies  and  human  heads ,  which  represented  the 
jungs  and  were  usually  erected  in  pairs  on  the  ayenues  leading  to 
the  temples ;  Monuments  commemorating  special  events ;  Steles,  or 
votive  stones  erected  to  the  memory  of  deceased  persons ,  bearing 
inscriptions  and  representations  of  the  infernal  deities  (Osiris) ,  to 
whom,  as  well  as  to  the  deceased  themselves,  offerings  were  pre- 
sented by  the  bereaved  relatives ;  Statues ,  from  tombs  or  temples  j 
Bos  Reliefs;  and  Sarcophagi, 

Egyptian  chronology  being  scarcely  an  exact  science,  the  monuments 
of  this  collection  are  dated  merely  by  dynasties ,  some  of  which  were 
only  70  years  in  duration  while  others  lasted  for  450  years.  This  mode 
of  reckoning  rests  on  the  authority  of  the  Greek  •writer  ifaneffios,  wh  >  reckons 
thirty-one  such  dynasties  between  the  beginning  of  Egyptian  history  and 
the  conquest  of  Egypt  by  Alexander  the  Great  The  first  dynasty  may  be 
placed  at  about  SOiOB.C,  though  authorities  differ  on  this  point,  Hariette 
referring  it  to  5000  B.C.,  Lepsius  to  3892  B.C.  The  fourth  dynasty  (V«»\\T\aVfe?^ 
about  2600  B.O.,  the  12th  about  199B-1783,  the  Ifeth  atoowV.  V'JiWiA^^,  ^^ 
19fh  about  1860-1200B.C.  Exact  dntes  begin  to  be  possible  w\^  VXi«i  ^«.c%.%%\o^ 
of  JfBammetieJiiu  I.  in  068 B.C.  (QBth  dynasty). 


102  2.  LOUYBE.  Effyptkm  Mumum. 

The  large  Sphinx  in  pink  granite  at  the  entrance  is  in  better  i 

ation  but  is  not  so  interesting  as  its  pendant  at  the  other  end  of  the  i 

To  the  right,  Xos.  A  18,  A  19.  Foot  and  head  of  a  eolossal  ttatne  of 
Amenhotep  (or  Amenophis)  III.,  the  Hemnon  of  the  Oreeka.  *D9.  Bur- 
cophagut  of  Taho,  a  'masterpiece  of  the  later  Egyptian  tenlptnre*  CKthDjn.)} 
the  scenes  and  inscriptions  on  this,  as  on  other  sarcophagi,  m^  mainly 
to  the  nightly  voyage  of  the  ship  of  the  sun  through  tlM  lower  regions, 
in  vvhich  the  dead  take  part.  —  To  the  left,  D  8.  Sarcof^agut  of  onoOer  foko 
of  the  reign  of  Psammetichus  I.  (26th  Dyn.).  Farther  on,  A  90.  so-called 
Statue  of  Ramses  11,^  belonging  to  a  king  of  the  middle  empire  (iStth  or 
13th  Dyn.),  usurped  by  Bamses.  In  the  middle,  the  cH^ltal  of  &  odiimn 
in  the  form  of  a  double  head  of  Hathor,  firom  the  temple  at  Bubsftis, 
and  (to  the  right)  a  fragment  of  a  clustered  column  with  a  lotas -'hnd 
capital.  In  front  of  the  large  capital,  *B7.  Painted  bas-relief  of  Seti  L 
(Sesostris*,  19th  Dyn.)  and  the  goddess  Hathor,  found  in  8eti*8  tomb  at 
Thebes;  Hhe  lean  and  elongated  form  of  Seti  may  be  taken  as  a  genuine 
type  of  the  proportions  aimed  at  by  the  artists  of  that  time\  I<elt,  A3i. 
Colossal  Statue  of  Seti  II.  (end  of  the  19th  Dyn.),  in  red  sandstone,  with 
the  double  crown  on  his  head  and  holding  a  flag-staff  on  which  the  rojal 
name  and  titles  are  engraved.  Farther  back,  D31.  Portion  of  tbe  base  of 
the  obelisk  of  Luxor  (p.  88) ,  with  four  cynocephali  (dog-faeed  baboon^) 
adoring  the  rising  sun.  Above,  D  38,  Cast  of  the  Zodiacu  Frieae  of  Den- 
dera  (p.  190).  A  24.  Statue  of  Harua,  Steward  of  Amenertals,  Princess  of 
Thebes  (25th  Dyn.);  several  statues  of  the  lion-headed  goddess  Setkmeti 
D 1.  Colossal  Sarcophagus  of  Ramses  III.  (20th  Dyn.),  in  pink  granite  (the 
lid  is  at  Cambridge).  —  To  the  right  and  by  the  windows  are  portfoni 
of  sarcophagi  and  steles  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  their  reUefs.  DIO. 
Sarcophagus  of  an  official  named  Horus  \  in  the  interior  are  the  41^  infemsl 
judges  who  assisted  Osiris  in  judging  the  dead.  —  To  the  left,  by  the  wall, 


C  48.  Stele  of  pink  granite,  in  the  form  of  an  Egyptian  temiue-gate 
the  18th  Dyn.-,  farther  on,  D29.  Naos  of  AmaeiSj  monolithie  vonye  < 
in  pink  granite  (6th  cent.  B.C.). 

At  the  end  of  this  hall  is  a  staircase,  on  the  left  of  wbieh  is  the 
lining  from  a  wall  in  the  temple  at  Karnak,  with  a  fragment  of  »  list  if 
the  campaigns  of  Thatmosis  in.,  the  most  powerful  of  Egyptian  Idafl 
(18th  Dyn.).  Higher  up  is  an  alabaster  statue  (freely  restored)  of  Samr 
ses  II  (A  22).    Also  a  glass-case  with  shoes. 

To  the  left,  at  the  foot  of  the  staircase,  Is  the  Sallb  d*Api8,  eon- 
taining  the  objects  found  by  Mariette  intheSerapeum  or  large  maofo- 
leum  of  the  Apis  bulls  at  Memphis,  chiefly  statues  and  moi»im6nt& 

The  Apis  was  the  animal  sacred  to  Ptah ,  the  god  of  Memphis,  ne 
bull  to  be  thus  honoured  required  to  be  black  in  colour,  to  hare  a  whUa 
triangle  on  his  forehead,  a  white  mark  on  his  back  resembling  an  M|^ 
and  an  excrescence  under  his  tongue  in  the  shape  of  the  saered  soarabaai 
beetle.  After  his  death  the  sacred  bull  was  interred  with  great  pomp  is 
the  vaults  known  to  the  Greeks  as  the  ^Serapeum%  a  word  deri'^rad  no* 
'Osiris  Apis",  which  the  Egyptians  applied  to  the  dead  Apis. 

In  the  middle  of  the  room,  S96,  large  Figure  of  Apie^  on  which  thi 
marks  of  the  sacred  bull  are  distinctly  vi$«ible.  At  the  side  are  sersral 
Ccmopi^  or  stone  vessels  in  the  shape  of  the  heads  of  the  patron-goda  of 
the  deceased  and  containing  the  entrails  of  the  embalmed  bolls.  Artu4 
the  walls  are  Steles,  erected  by  devout  persons  in  the  tombs  of  the  boUl^ 
which  give  the  dates  of  ttie  deaths  of  these  revered  animals,  with  flio  khi^ 
reigns  when  they  occurred,  affording  a  valuable  clue  to  Egyptian  ubioal 
logy.  Opposite  is  a  statuette  of  ^es,  a  grotesque  Egyptian  diyinity.  Tht 
Lionj  near  the  window,  of  a  late  period,  should  be  notloed.  ^  Al  fts 
entrance  to  an  adjacent  apartment  is  the  gateway  of  the  SerMeum  C— J* 
glass),  with  inscriptions  of  the  period  of  the  Ptolemies.  A  door  Isili 
bence  to  the  rooms  containing  the  Renaissance  Sculptures  (p»  IQB). 

Another  gallery,   for   mouumente    of  th«   Old  and   Middle  MaaM 
(ith-Wtb  Dyn.)  J  has  been  opened  under  ih«  co\OTai«j^%\k«&\^^^bit  ~ 


Medtdeoal  Sculptures,         2.  LOtJYRE.  103 

The  staircase  mentioned  at  p.  102  ascends  to  the  first  floor,  on  which 
ire  the  Remaining  Egyptian  CoUeetionti  to  the  left  (p.  146),  etc. 

*Ck>llection  of  Xedissval  and  Senaissanee  Scnlptiires  (MusSe 
ie»  Sculptures  du  Moyen  Age  et  de  la  Renaissance),  The  chief  en- 
trance is  in  the  S..  wing  of  the  inner  Court  of  the  Louvre ,  by  the 
ioor  on  the  left  of  the  passage,  as  we  face  the  Seine  (PI.  D ;  p.  87) ; 
t>at  it  may  also  be  reached  vi^  the  small  room  under  the  staircase 
it  the  end  of  the  large  room  of  the  Egyptian  antiquities  (p.  102). 
The  first  room  is  next  the  latter  entrance.  —  Illustrated  Catalogue, 
I  ft.  26  c. 

Salle  Bbaunbybu  or  Room  I  contains  statues  from  tombs  and 
statuettes  of  the  French  school  of  the  14-15th  centuries.  The 
shief  work  is  No.  *216,  Monument  of  Philippe  Pot,  grand-seneschal 
)f  Burgundy  and  favourite  of  Philip  the  Good ,  who  was  buried  at 
;he  Abbey  of  Ctteaux.  The  recumbent  statue  reposes  on  a  slab 
supported  by  eight  mourning  figures  (1477-83).  By  the  window 
K>wards  the  Seine,  ♦219.  Flemish  Calvary,  in  wood  (16th  cent.). 
kt  the  window  towards  the  Place  is  the  brass  of  a  Catalan  merchant 
^1400).  In  the  centre,  94.  Tomb-figure  of  Blanche  de  Champagne, 
In  embossed  copper  (14th  cent.), 

Sallb  du  Motbn  Age  (II).  Other  French  tomb-statues  of  the 
L4th  century ;  three  figures  of  the  Yirgin,  Christ,  and  bas-reliefs  of 
ihe  same  period.  48.  Statue  of  Childebert,  King  of  France 
'13th  cent.).  ♦372.  Gothic  Door  from  a  house  in  Valentia  in  Spain 
['15th  cent.).  Sculptured  fragments,  Including  four  from  the  rood- 
loft  of  the  cathedral  of  Bourges  and  another  firom  Notre-Dame  at 
Paris  (in  the  centre);  capitals,  etc.,  of  the  ll-13th  centuries. 

Sallb  de  Miohbl  Colombb  (III),  the  works  in  which  show  the 
French  school  of  sculpture  uninfluenced  by  Italian  art.  By  M,  Co- 
lombe  or  Miehault  Columb  (1431-1614),  the  chief  representative  of 
the  Loire  school  of  his  period,  from  whom  the  room  takes  its  name : 
)ppoBite  the  entrance,  ♦226.  Relief  of  St.  George  and  the  Dragon. 
Below,  ♦262.  Entombment,  ascribed  to  0,  Pilon,  To  the  right,  ^143. 
V'irgin,  of  the  16th  cent.,  and  199.  Relief  of  the  Death  of  the  Virgin 
from  the  church  of  St.  Jacques-la-Boucherie.  In  the  middle :  276. 
tfercury  and  Psyche,  bronze,  by  A.  de  Vries  (1593);  226.  Mercury, 
i  replica  of  the  bronze  statue  in  Florence  by  Oiov.  da  Bologna^  an 
mltator  of  Michael  Angelo ,  and  a  native  of  Douai  in  Flanders ; 
J24bis.  Fame,  by  P.  JSiard,  a  bronze  figure  from  the  tomb  of  the 
>uc  d'Epemon ,  at  Cadillac.  Behind  and  at  the  sides ,  sepulchral 
tatues  and  bas-reliefs  of  the  15-16th  cent.,  including  the  mon- 
iments  of  Philippe  de  Comines  (1445-1509)  and  his  wife  (^126; 
>arl8 ,  beginning  of  the  16th  cent).  274.  Statue  of  Henri  IV., 
«eribed  to  B.  Tremblay  and  0.  Oissey.  Busts  of  Martin  Fi€«vvsv^\. 
180;  d.  1619),  Jean  d'Alesso  (173;  d.  1672),  an^L  QcVon.  ^^^ci\Q^v. 
'462;  by  P.  Taaca).   To  the  right,  •144.  Virgin  Itom  "E»<i<i\3L^\\^^'*^ 


104  2.  LOUVBB. 

cent.);  160.  Bronze  bnst  of  Francis  L ;  149.  Tomb-ttatae  of  BoUito 
Legendre  (d.  1620>  by  O.  Begnaulti  •220.  Tomb  of  Jean  de  Cht- 
mois,  abbot  of  St.  Jacques,  at  Li^ge  (d.  1626).  By  the  teeond 
window,  153.  *La  Mort  St.  Innocent*,  a  skeleton  from  the  ftomer 
Oimetidre  des  Innocents ;  fine  bas-reliefs,  including  a  Holy  Family 
(277),  after  DOrer,  attributed  to  Hana  Daueher. 

Salle  db  Jban  Govjon  (IY),  named  after  the  most  dlstingiiiBlied 
French  sculptor  of  the  16tb  century,  who  executed,  under  Henri  IL, 
a  great  part  of  the  decorations  of  the  Louvre.  His  best-known  work 
is  No.  *228,  the  large  group  of  Diana  with  the  stag  in  the  inlddle 
of  this  saloon ,  which  affords  an  excellent  example  of  the  gnoe- 
f ulness  of  form  and  other  attributes  characteristio  of  Freneh  taste. 
(The  visitor  will  And  it  interesting  to  compare  this  Diana  with 
Benvenuto  Cellini's  Nymph  of  Fontainebleau ,  p.  106.)  In  tie 
middle  of  the  room  are  also  placed  a  marble  group  (266)  of  the  Three 
Theological  Virtues  or  Three  Graces  (the  urn  on  whose  heads  wis 
once  destined  to  contain  the  heart  of  Henri  11.),  and  wooden  statues 
(250)  representing  the  Four  Cardinal  Virtues  (destined  as  the  siqp- 
porters  of  a  reliquary),  works  by  Germain  Pilon  (d.  1590),  showing 
the  same  style  as  the  Diana.  —  Round  the  room  f^m  right  to  left: 
168.  Statue  of  Charles  de  Maigny  (Paris,  1556);  260.  Q.  fUon,  Bait 
of  a  child;  258.  Effigy,  genii,  and  reliefs  from  the  tomb  of  the  wlb 
of  Chancellor  Ren^  de  Birague ;  *229.  J.  Ooib^on,  Five  reUefi  ham 
the  old  rood-loft  of  St.  Germain-l'Auxerrois ;  256.  O.  POon^  Ustsr 
Dolorosa,  in  painted  terracotta;  268.  B.  Prieur,  Column  and  three 
figures  from  the  tomb  of  Anne  de  Montmorency;  261.  O.  PUtm, 
Chimney-piece,  with  bust  of  Henri  II.  (227) ;  235.  Et,  Le  Hangrtf 
Fragments  of  the  mausoleum  of  the  Coss^-Brissac  family;  (?.  PBoa, 
253.  Bust  of  Henri  III.,  *257.  Bronze  statue  of  the  Chancellor  de 
Birague  (d.  1583);  187.  Statue  of  Admiral  Phil,  de  Ohabot  (d. 
1543) ;  230.  J.  Ooujon ,  Fountain-nymphs  from  the  Fontaine  dn 
Innocents.  —  At  the  third  window:  270.  Jean  RUhier  {?),  BaaM 
come  to  judgment  (relief);  271.  Ligier  BicMer,  Infant  Jesns;  102. 
Fr.  Bouaael  (?),  Nymphs  awakened;  0,  Pilony  241,  240.  Faith  and 
Strength  (reliefs),  252.  Bust  of  Charles  IX.  At  the  second  window: 
266,  267.  B,  Prieur^  Statues  from  the  tomb  of  Constable  Anne  di 
Montmorency  (see  above)  and  his  wife;  245.  0,  PUon,  Entombmesit 
(bronze  relief).  At  the  first  window :  246.  (?.  Pilon ,  Fxagments  of 
a  pulpit.  —  The  — 

*Sallbde  Michel- Anob  (V),  containing  Italian  soalptoies  of  At 
15-1 7th  cent.,  is  named  from  the  marble  statues  of  the  two  **Fetttni 
Slaves  (279,  280),  by  Michael  Angela  Buonarroti  (1475-1664). 

These  figures  were  intended  to  form  part  of  a  magnifleeBt  aOBl 

to  Pope  Julius  II.,  and  to  represent,  along  with  several  others  oC  a.. 

lar  character,  the  virtues  fettered  and  doomed  to  death  In  eonaaqmeass  rf 
the  decease  of  that  pontiff.  1ilch&e\  i^n^^lo  executed  them  la  "'*'* 
find  in  15ii,  when  the  original  am.V\l\o\xa  ^<ift\?,Ti  qI  ^^  tax 


Sculptures,  2.  LOUVBE.  105 

abandoned,  presented  them  to  Boberto  StroBSEi,  by  whom  they  were  sent 

0  France.  The  yonnger  dying  slave,  with  the  pained  expression  of  coon - 
enance,  is  of  great  beauty ;  the  other  figure  is  in  a  somewhat  constrained 
Ad  onpleasing  attitude. 

These  statues  stand  on  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance  to  the 
lext  room,  consisting  of  a  ♦Portal  (329)  of  the  end  of  the  15th  cent. , 
>emoved  from  the  Palazzo  Stanga  in  Cremona,  and  attributed  to  the 
brothers  Rodari.  The  reliefs  represent  scenes  from  the  life  of  Her- 
cules, the  mythical  founder  of  Cremona,  and  from  that  of  Perseus ; 
ilso  the  daughter  of  Herodias  with  the  head  of  John  the  Baptist, 
[n  the  middle  of  the  room  are  a  marble  fountain  from  the  chllteau  of 
JaUlon  (333 ;  p.  250),  and  a  bronze  bust  of  Michael  Angelo  (308), 
;wo  Italian  works  of  the  16th  century.  Adjacent  are  a  *Bu8t  of 
Bllippo  Strozzi  (396)  and  another,  both  by  Benedetto  da  Majano. 

Beside  the  entrance :  to  the  right,  403.  Bust  of  John  the  Baptist  as 

1  child,  by  Mino  da  Fiesole;  386.  Julius  Caesar,  bas-relief  by  Dona- 
leltof?);  Six  Virgins,  by  unknown  artists  of  the  15-16th  cent.,  and 
me  (460)  by  Sanaovino;  several  busts;  323.  Wood-carving  of  the 
Venetian  school  of  the  15th  century.  High  up:  *SSi,  Benvenuto 
Cellini^  the  'Nymph  of  Fontainebleau',  a  large  relief  in  bronze  exe- 
Duted  in  1543  for  an  archway  in  the  Palace  at  Fontainebleau,  and 
mentioned  in  the  master's  autobiography. 

By  the  back-wall :  Jason,  and  Hercules  slaying  the  Hydra,  two 
bronze  statues  of  the  16th  cent. ;  334.  Equestrian  figure  in  high-relief 
)f  Rob.  Malatesta,  captain-general  of  the  papal  forces  (end  of  15th 
jent.) ;  336,  337.  Virgin  and  the  angel  Gabriel,  in  wood  (Florentine 
idhool  of  the  end  of  the  14th  cent.) ;  Busts  of  a  man  and  woman 
[15th  cent.);  Virgin  in  painted  terracotta  attributed  to  Andrea  della 
Robbia;  Three  other  Virgins  and  a  Pieta  in  high  relief  (15th  cent.). 

By  the  first  window:  303.  Romulus  and  Remus  suckled  by  the 
?70lf,  another  Italian  work  of  the  16th  cent.,  in  white  marble  and 
rosso  antico.  —  The  highly  Interesting  collection  of  early-Renais- 
iance^Bronzes  by  the  windows  includes  eight  bronze  reliefs(414-421) 
by  Andrea  Briosco,  surnamed-Biccio  (1480-1532).  Originally  belong- 
ing to  the  tomb  of  Marcantonio  della  Torre,  these  reliefs  illustrate 
the  life  and  death  of  that  celebrated  physician  in  a  thoroughly  antique 
style.  Also,  six  bas-reliefs  of  the  Virgin,  three  of  which  (399-401) 
are  by  Mino  da  Fiesole.  At  the  second  window:  310.  Statue  of  a 
negro,  after  the  antique  (17th  cent.) ;  395.  Bronze  medallion  of 
Charles  V.,  by  Leone  Leoni  of  Arezzo  (?),  and  other  medallions. 

SaIiLE  Italibnnb  (VI).  Virgin  and  Child,  group  in  painted  and 
>;ilded  wood  (Florentine  or  Sienese  school  of  the  15th  cent.);  383. 
Bust  of  John  the  Baptist  by  Donate^fo ;  alto-relief  of  a  funeral,  in 
jnitation  of  the  antique.  At  the  window :  Relief  of  a  child,  in  the 
ityle  of  Donatello;  ornamental  sculptures,  etc. 

Sallb  DBS  Robbia  (VII).   This  room  coutam^  num^TOvi^  Vertv 
sottas  by  tlie  Della  Bobbia  and  their  school  (Floiencfc^  Vti^iJa.  t«aX»^ 


106  2.   LOUVRE. 

and  also  reliefs  of  the  12-15th  centuries.  To  the  xlglit  of  the  as- 
trance,  407.  Statue  of  Louis  XII.,  by  Lor.  da  Mugiano,  To  the  left, 
408.  Friendship,  by  P.  P.  Olivieri;  463.  Nature,  by  TMoio  (it  the 
end).  In  the  middle  of  the  room,  464.  St.  Ohrlstopher,  in  pftiited 
and  gilded  wood,  by  Vecchietta.  By  the  window  to  the  left,  Boit  of 
Card.  Medici,  by  Bernini;  by  the  right  wall,  Bust  of  Ferdiiund  I.  of 
Aragon,  King  of  Naples  (1424-94),  etc. 

Ybstibulb,  next  the  entrance  from  the  Court.  Repzoduotion  of 
a  fountain-group  ftom  Fontainebleau,  with  a  bronze  HontEOis  IMaiu, 
after  the  antique  (p.  97),  and  four  bronze  dogs  of  the  Fxench  Mkool 
of  the  17th  century.  —  The  — 

Salle  dbs  Antiqvit^s  Chr^tibnkbs,  to  the  right,  eontiibii 
sarcophagi,  reliefs,  a  mosaic,  and  inscriptions,  dhiefly  of  the  4A 
and  5th  centuries,  from  S.  France,  Italy,  Algeria,  etc.  —  To  Ho 
left  is  the  — 

Sallb  des  Nouybllbs  Acquisitions,  where  recent  aoqnliitloBi 
are  kept  until  their  ultimate  places  in  the  collection  are  aaaigned  to 
them.  Among  the  objects  shown  here  in  1900  were  a  orneLfllx  of  As 
12th  cent.,  several  interesting  French  statues  of  the  18-16th  cent, 
two  Italian  brasses  (15-16th  cent.),  and  several  Madonnas,  one  of 
the  school  of  Jacopo  della  Querela,  By  the  windows,  boits  by  L^ 
moyne  (♦Trudaine),  Chinard,  Houdon  (♦Lavoisier),  and  Pajou  (•Lo- 
moyne).  In  the  middle,  Crown  of  Thorns  (French,  oa.  1600);  Toutit- 
ful  Christ  (Florence,  15th  cent.);  *Bust  of  the  young  Loolee  Bronf- 
niart  by  Houdon,  In  the  glass-case  are  models  and  other  atataettoa 


The  *Collection  of  Xodern  Sculptnrea  (MuaSe  des  Stmifitmrn 
Modemesjj  which  forms  a  continuation  of  the  Benaiasanee  ooUeetioa, 
"occupies  the  W.  portion  of  the  Yieux  Louvre.  Bntnnee  by  tki 
second  door  to  the  right  of  the  Pavilion  d'Horloge  (PL  B),  openinf 
into  the  — 

Sallb  de  Pvobt  (II),  named  after  Pierre  Pugei  of  Kaneilloi 
(1622-94),  the  most  famous  of  the  French  followers  of  l^e  tbieatrifl^ 
school  of  Bernini,  which  aimed  exclusively  at  effeet.  AmAwj  Ui 
works  are,  in  the  middle :  795.  Perseus  and  Andromeda(1684);  791 
Hercules  reposing  (1660);  *794.  MUo  of  Croton  attacked  by  a  Ull, 
the  best-known  and  most  admired  of  his  works  (1682).  .On  the  vil 
to  the  left,  796.  Puget^  Diogenes  requesting  Alexandei  the  Qieitti 
stand  out  of  his  light,  a  bas-relief  with  masterly  treatment  of  tti 
vulgar  types  of  the  attendants ;  *652.  Coyzevox  (see  p.  107},  Itai- 
ment  of  Cardinal  Mazarin,  the  allegorical  figures  of  vbieh  oil 
also  noteworthy.  By  the  window:  830.  Thiodont  Atlas.  BetwMi 
the  windows,  754-757.  P.  Legros^  Herms  of  the  Seasona.  By  Al 
second  window,  the  large  *Yase  de  Marl/,  of  the  Frenefa  iehadl,  t^ 
iFhJch  also  belong  the  two  vases  in  the  centre.  691,  692.  ~~ 
Bronze    model    and   a    foot  ot  t\ie  QQ^^«\:dMi  itaJkAA 


Sculptures.  2.  LOUVBE.  107 

[iOuis  XIY.  in  the  Place  Yend6me  in  1699.  —  By  the  next  window : 
^1.  Thiodon^  Phaethnsa  converted  into  a  reed.  To  the  right :  487. 
Fr,  Anguier,  Monument  of  Jacques  de  Thon  (d.  1617),  with  statues 
)f  his  two  wives,  that  to  the  right  by  B.  Prieur;  702-704.  Sim.  Oil- 
laifiy  Louis  XIII.,  Louis  XIY.  as  a  child,  Anne  of  Austria,  bronzes 
Rrom  the  old  monument  on  the  Pont-au-Ohange.  By  the  window, 
764.  jLemoyne,  Bust  of  Mansart;  Qb^.DesjardinSy  Bust  of  Colbert.  — 
The  door  on  the  left  of  the  entrance  leads  to  the  — 

Sallb  db  Coyzeyox  (I),  named  after  Charles  Antoine  CoyzevoXj 
3n6  of  the  ablest  masters  of  the  same  school,  especially  happy  in  his 
portrait-busts.  In  the  centre:  485.  I\r,  Artguier,  Monument  of  Due 
Senri  de  Longueville;  699,  700.  Q.  OxUrin,  Effigies  of  the  Duke 
%nd  Duchess  of  Yieuville.  On  the  wall  to  the  right ,  named  from 
right  to  left:  Coyzevox,  558.  The  Rhone,  555.  Nymph  with  a  shell, 
561.  Duchess  of  Burgundy  as  Diana,  560.  Shepherd  playing  on  the 
lute,  556.  YenuB,  554.  Le  Brun,  559.  Marie  Serre,  562.  Le  Tellier, 
563.  Bossuet.  Between  the  windows,  686.  Remains  of  the  old  monu- 
ment to  Henri  lY.  on  the  Pont  Neuf,  by  P.  Francheville  or  Frar^que- 
^^iUe,  On  the  side  next  the  entrance:  491.  Mich,  Anffmer,  Amphl- 
trite;  687.  B.  Frimin,  Flora;  684.  Francheville,  David  and  Goliath; 
188.  Fr,  Anguier,  Jacques  de  Souvr^;  701.  S.  QuiUain,  Chariotte 
le  la  Tremoille;  082.  FranchevUle,  Orpheus;  688.  ^r<fymn,  Diana; 
512.  Bourdin,  Amador  de  la  Porte;  Bust  of  Colbert;  841.  Warin, 
Louis  Xin.;  660.  Desjardinsj  Bust  of  Mignard;  Bust  of  Richelieu. 
—  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  the  — 

SaliiB  DBS  CousTOu  (III),  in  which  are  assembled  the  plastic 
nasterpieces  of  the  pleasure-loving  age  of  Louis  XY.  In  the  centre  : 
)48.  NicoUu  Couatou,  Adonis  resting  from  the  fatigues  of  the  chase 
;1710),  Behind,  Cupid  with  his  dart,  by  F.  Q.  (fr.  OilUt  ?;  below  is 
^e  inscription  by  Yoltaire :  *Qui  que  tu  sois,  void  ton  maitre,  il 
i*est,  le  fut,  ou  le  doit  dtre').  481.  L,  S.  Adam^  Lyric  Poetry;  483. 
AUegrainy  Yenus  and  Diana  bathing.  To  the  left,  672.  Falconet,  Mu- 
)lc;  549.  Nie.  Coustou,  Cesar;  543.  CfuUlaume  Coustou  the  Elder, 
SdariaLesezinska  of  Poland,  queen  of  Louis  XY.  (1731) ;  752.  Pa^'ou, 
Statue  of  the  same  queen  as  Charity.  Between,  520.  Bust  by 
Caffieri  (?).  By  the  first  window,  Bust  of  N.  Coustou  by  O.  Coustou. 
Opposite,  550.  Nie,  Coustou^  Louis  XY.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
loor,  828.  SlodiK,  Hannibal;  780.  J.  P.  Figalle,  Mercury  fastening 
tils  sandals,  a  leaden  statue  formerly  in.  the  Luxembourg  gardens. 
Above,  on  the  wall:  653-658.  Martin  Deajardir^,  Six  bas-reliefs  in 
}ronz6  from  the  statue  of  Louis  XIY.  in  the  Place  des  Yictoires 
^.  192),  now  replaced  by  another.  —  Then  the  — 

Sallb  db  Houdon  (IY),  dedicated  chiefly  to  Antoine  Uoudon 
Versailles,  1741-1828).    By  Houdon^  in  the  centre  of  the  room : 
^16.  Bronze  statue  of  the  nude  Diana,  executed  first  in  ms.ib\^ 
[or  the  Empress  Catherine  11.  of  Russia  (1781).  —  To  Wie^  ^^X>  ^'^ 
he  entrance,  and  farther  on  to  the  right ,  Pojou ,   "XXX .  'S^iO^^^ 


108  2.  LOUYBE. 

(1790),  775.  Bacchante.  In  a  niche,  509.  Boudtardom,  Onpid  cu- 
ving  a  bow  oat  of  the  elnh  of  Herenles ;  681.  IWmein  (altn  Hoa- 
don),  Bust  of  Olaek.  ~  750.  P.  JuUeny  Amalthea.  —  The  foUowlBg 
busts  are  also  by  Houdon:  Miiabeau  (two),  Washington,  Boni- 
seau  (bronze),  Abbtf  Aubert,  Boffon,  Diderot,  Franklin,  and  Yoltitn 
(bronze).  Pajou,  Busts  of  Mme.  Dubarry  (774),  Buffon  (773),  ete. 
—  Opposite  the  window:  782.  PigaUe,  LoTe  and  Fiifindahlp;  511. 
Bouehcurdon,  Model  of  the  statue  of  Louis  XY.  that  Btood  In  the 
Place  de  la  Concorde,  in  bronze. 

The  Sallb  de  Ghaudbt  (Y)  is  mainly  occupied  with  wqAb  of 
the  end  of  the  18th  and  beginning  of  the  19th  cent.,  whan  the  aneieiit 
classical  style  was  revived.  To  the  left :  537.  ClodUm^  Bacchante; 
534.  Cbau(2«t, 'Gupid  with  a  butterfly ;f  803. 'fiotend.  Homer;  53a 
Cortot,  Daphnis  and  Ghloe ;  650.  Dtlaiatrt^  Gupid  and  Payehe;  804. 
Roman^  Nlsus  and  Euryalus.  In  the  centre :  503.  Bo9lOy  AristBiu, 
god  of  gardens;  651.  Destine,  Mudus  Scffivola;  *524.  Ocmooo,  Oopld 
and  Psyche;  748.  Julien^  Ganymede;  533.  ChotMkl,  The  youiig 
Gildipus  rescued  by  the  shepherd  Phorbas.  —  Round  the  hall,  at  we 
return :  539.  Cortoty  Soldier  of  Marathon ;  760.  LemHirtn  Oapld;  614. 
Bridnn,  Epaminondas ;  753.  Legendre-HSral,  Oiotto ;  *523.  Canewi^ 
Gupid  and  Psyche  with  the  butterfly ;  667.  Dupaty^  Bihiis  ohanged 
into  a  fountain;  506.  Bosio,  the  Nymph  Salmaeia;  817.  BuxOMt 
Psyche  borne  by  Zephyr  (1814);  826.  SergcUj  Drunken  Ikim.  ^ 
Beyond  the  door:  540.  Cortot,  Ylctory  (bronze);  504.  Boaio,  Hyadn- 
thus;  521.  CaldeUm,  Narcissus;  648.  Dthay,  Meroury;  *8()6.  Statue 
of  Gate  of  Utica,  begun  by  Roman,  and  flnished  by  Riude, 

The  Sallb  de  Rude  (YI),  named  after  the  sculptor  IWmfOii 
Rude  (1784-1855),  contains  the  most  modem  works  admitted  ti 
the  Louvre  (comp.  p.  256).  In  the  entrance  and  by  the  wlndowi 
are  numerous  medallions  by  David  £  Angers,  From  right  to  left: 
678.  Foyatier,  Spartacus;  *747.  JaJUy,  Louis  XL;  *493-495.  Bmp, 
Bronze  animals,  Gentaur  and  Lapith;  810.  i2iid«,  Mereuy,  ii 
bronze;  779.  Perrnud,  Despair;  Rudt^  ^811.  Mauiiee  of.SflMyi 
*813.  Joan  of  Arc,  815.  Napoleon  I.  awakening  to  immoztallty  rmodel]^ 
809.  Young  Neapolitan  flsher  with  a  tortoise;  789.  Prodier,  Sapiple; 
David  d' Angers  J  *566.  Philopoemen  wounded  with  a  spear,  867. 
Bust  of  F.  Arago;  814.  Rude,  Ghrist;  *670.  Dwm,  Young  tAaf 
man  dancing  the  tarantella,  bronze;  opposite,  746.  /oicy.  Prayer; 
787.  iVadter,  Psyche;  800.  Ramey,  Theseus  and  the  Mlnotrar, » 
colossal  group;  770.  Nanteuil,  Eurydice;  *671.  Dunt,  NeapoUtoi 
Improvisatore,  in  bronze ;  *778.  Perraud,  Ghildhood  of  Beeekii; 
661.  Dumont,  Genius  of  Liberty,  a  model  of  that  on  the  Jvlf 
Golumn  (p.  71) ;  opposite,  786.  Ptadier,  Ghild  of  Nlobe  (eftar  Oe 
antique),  788.  Atalanto's  toilet. 

The  new  Salle  Gaepbaux  (adjoining  the  Salle  de  Rade)  Mt- 
tiins  works  of  Carpeaux :  581.  Four  (quarters  of  the  globe  lappmiC 
the  sphere,  model  of  the  gio\i5  onXXie^oTAAVii^k  ^^X^ewniilfltii 


UmitZ  DU  LOII¥RE. 


"Ketres 


PREMIER  ETAGE. 

A.E8ealier   du  vatsee  egyptten .       |    Ji-Enirees  jrrmjdpaU-s. 
^.EseaUer  du  mutet  assyierv.       \   Tt  .Esaxller ifoOien 
Cl^seaUer  Sairi,  JH.  I    f  Mits  escaliers  du.  ZfetOA 

G.  Grand  escalijer  da  Z  fetage  el  sortie,  quand  U  y  a  fouJA 


a; 


K  c  o  I  o 

"1  mTi  M 


GRANDE        GALE 


l\  o  1  I  a  n  d  a  i  s  e 


Kcole       flamande 

1 — I — k 


Pavilion  Denoii 


I 


G  R  A  NDE 


"1- 


I    JJsiU*-    ™ 


alloiajmilp  et  '  anglaise     Kcoles  espagnole   el    italiennes 


^^"     'i     G  A    L   E    R    I    Z 
a&nole   el    ittLlienne 

&! 1 .^ 


I 


iL        a 


r  0  i:  R 


D  r  li  o  r  V  R  E 


r Ci^rajiLEiTiliq-up         jipi^       AntiqmUt  fsryptt  — ""  - 

i      (    e  Ir  [I  PL  i  4  J  .*      Ij^ttimrj  ^  .^  rU  il,^lle     1 


>6.    liOUVRE.  lOi 

J).  285);  *679.  Dance,  model  of  the  group  at  the  Optfra  (p.  79); 
nodels  of  basts,  etc. 

The  sculptures  of  the  'Mns^e  Moli^re*,  rescued  from  the  bum- 
ing  Th^tre  Franks  (see  p.  61),  are  temporarily  exhibited  in  an 
idjoining  room. 

To  reach  the  JHckire  OcXkry  hence  we  tarn  to  the  right  on  learing  and 
>as8  through  the  first  paTilion,  to  the  principal  entrance  of  the  New 
[loavre,  or  we  ascend  the  Escalier  Henri  H.  (see  below),  to  the  left  in 
lie  pavilion. 

B.  FIRST  FLOOR. 
The  most  important  collection  on  the  first  floor  of  the  Louvre  is 
;he  Ficiure  OaUeryj  which  occupies  nearly  the  whole  of  the  S.  con- 
lecting  gallery  between  the  Old  Loavre  and  the  Tuileries  (OaUrie 
iu  Bord  de  VEau),  together  with  the  whole  of  the  inner  gallery  of 
ihe  New  Louvre  parallel  to  it,  and  also  several  saloons  in  the  Old 
[iOUYre.  —  The  first  fioor  of  the  Old  Loavre  also  contains  the  Ancient 
3ron%e9  (p.  142),  the  Drawings  (p.  143\  the  Mediatvalj  Benais- 
Hinee^  and  Modem  Works  of  Art  (p.  144),  the  Ancient  Vases  and 
;he  SmaUer  AntiquitUs  (pp.  147-149),  the  Jewels  (p.  140),  and 
;lie  OetnSy  Enamels,  and  Oold  Ornaments  (p.  138). 

The  Pbinoipal  Entbanob  to  the  first  floor  is  by  the  Pavilion 
Denon  (where  sticks,  etc.,  may  be  left),  whence  the  Escalier  Daru 
'p.  91)  ascends  to  the  picture-gallery. 

Those  who  wish  may  ascend  the  Escalier  Henri  II.  (comp.  p.  99),  whence 
hey  proceed  to  the  right  to  the  Collection  La  Caze  (p.  14l),  or  to  the  left 
0  the  Ancient  Bronzes  (p.  142)  and  the  Drawings  (p.  148). 

On  the  landing  of  the  Escalier  Daru  are  a  portion  of  the  collection 

f  Etruscan  terracottas  (p.  148)  and  also  (2369)  the  *mke  of  Samo- 

race,  on  a  pedestal  representing  the  prow  of  a  trireme.  This  figure, 

and  in  1863,  was  originally  erected  in  memory  of  a  nayal  yictory 

m  by  Demetrius  Poliorcetes  about  305  B.C.  The  much  mutilated 

tue  represents  the  goddess  on  the  prow  of  a  vessel,  in  the  act  of 

.nding  the  signal  for  battle  upon  her  trumpet.  In  dignity  of  con- 

tion  and  in  the  masterly  handling  of  the  volaminous  drapery,  this 

Ipture  is  perhaps  the  finest  extant  work  of  early-Hellenistic  art.  — 

he  left,  seven  steps  higher,  is  a  replica  of  the  Victory  of  Brescia, 

riation  of  the  Venus  of  Milo  (p.  95).    In  a  case  to  the  left  is  a 

othracian  coin,  showing  a  Victory  in  the  attitude  of  the  statue. 

'hence  we  may  either  enter  by  the  door  to  the  right  of  the  last- 

d  Victory  and  pass  through  the  Galerie  d*Apollon,  as  indicated 

' ;  or  we  may  ascend  the  seven  steps  to  the  right  of  the  Nike 

iach  a  colonnaded  'vestibule  and  the  Salle  Duch&tel  (p.  114), 

end  of  which  is  the  Salon  Oarrtf  (p.  116). 

e  Vestibule  just  mentioned  formed  part  of  a  staircase  removed  when 

ivre  was  extended.    Its  ceiling  is  painted  by  Meynier:   France    as 

receiving  homage  from  the  Fine  Arts. 

tographs  of  the  pictures,  drawings,  and  scnlptnres^  by  Bt«.xu^  vt^ 
this  vestibule.    The  large  photographs,  20  in.  long  «n^  Vft  Vci.  \^tc^«A^ 
r.;  the  smaller,  12  in.  by  d'/i  in.,  cost  5  fr.    Che&peT  "(XvoNov^.^^^ 
per  doz.)  are  sold  by  the  ordinary  dealers  (p.  «>. 


110  2.    LOUVRE. 


**Tictiire  Oallery. 

At  least  Thbbb  Visits  are  necessanr  for  even  a  fuperfldal  Idn  of  tte 
importance  of  the  gallery.  We  should  begin  with  the  Salon  Oux€  (p,  1119, 
next  inspect  the  Italian  pictures  in  the  Salle  Duchitel  Q».  114).  As  SaDe 
des  Primitifs  (p.  117),  and  the  Grande  Galerie  (first  part),  and  flidfh  Am 
visit  with  the  Spanish  works  in  the  middle  of  the  Gnnde  GMerie.  The 
second  day  may  be  spent  among  the  Flemish,  Datch,  Oerman,  and  BMA 
pictures.    The  third  day  should  be  devoted  to  the  IVench  sckools. 

The  impending  opening  of  fourteen  new  rooms  has  occasioned  goA 
extensive  alterations  in  the  arrangement  of  the  pictures  that  we  mnit  eoa- 
Ane  ourselves  for  the  most  part  to  a  general  critical  review  and  aa  alpha* 
betical  enumeration  of  the  chief  works.  —  The  lai^  scientiflc  ealalogw 
is  at  present  out  of  print,  but  there  is  a  CatcOoffw  Sommt»b*€  for  tiie  ei&e 
mus^e(1889;l&.  20  c.). 

The  Picture  Oallery  6t  the  Lonyre,  the  salooiu  of  whleh  han 
an  aggregate  length  of  over  1/2  M.,  oompriBes  ahout  2600  H- 
lect  works,  almost  every  school  being  represented  by  numexoii 
masterpleoeB.  There  are  Indeed  some  masters  whose  MqnainAnee 
can  be  satisfactorily  made  in  the  Louvre  alone.  We  reconuneiid  tte 
tourist  to  read  the  following  general  review  of  the  most  Impoitart 
works,  as  well  as  the  various  incidental  notices  of  p&rtloalai  Return 
by  Mr.  Crowe  and  other  dlstlngnlshed  authorities,  before  pxooeedlil 
to  view  the  gallery  itself. 

Most  visitors  to  the  Louvre  will  of  course  be  chiefly  interested  ta 
the  Italian  Paintbbs.  The  works  of  the  14-16th  cent,  aie  all  xeeaat 
acquisitions.  Those  of  the  Florentine  School  first  attract  our  noliBa 
The  gallery  possesses  one  authentic  work  of  Cimabue  QTo.  1260) 
and  one  of  Oiotto  (No.  1316).  An  excellent  example  of  the  tnids 
and  saintly  style  of  Fra  AngeUco  da  Fieaole  is  his  Ooionatioii  of  Miif 
(No.  1290;  p.  118),  while  Benoszo  QoxxoU'b  Glory  of  St.  Thnw 
Aquinas  (No.  1319 ;  p.  118)  affords  an  instance  <^  the  Imyetsnir 
with  which  the  artists  of  that  age  clung  to  medlsval  ideas.  Jta 
Filippo  Lippi  is  admirably  represented  by  a  Madonna  and  OUli 
(No.  1344*,  p.  118);  and  Domenico  Ohirlandajo  by  his  poweifcHr 
conceived  Visitation,  of  the  year  1491  (No.  1321 ;  p.  118).  Andn 
Botticelli  is  worthily  illustrated  by  a  charming  Madonna  of  his  sulf 
period  (No.  1296)  and  by  the  noble  frescoes  from  the  YiUa 
(Nos.  1297, 1298).  A  Madonna  and  Child  (no  number)  is  atkrlbiiii 
to  Fiero  deUa  Francescay  but  many  authorities  dispute  tiieeemetafl* 
of  this  ascription.  Lorenzo  di  Ore(2i'«  Madonna  (No.  1263)  may  affttf 
to  some  rather  sentimental.  The  strong  and  tonic  art  of  Luea  SJtt 
relli  may,  perhaps,  be  almost  better  studied  In  the  fragment  of  alaflF 
composition  (No.  1627)  than  in  the  Adoration  of  theMagi(]Ne.l6Si^ 
—  Among  the  Ferrarese  works  we  note  the  Court  of  the  Moses  fey  It" 
renzo  Costa  (No.  1261)and  the  realistic  but  deeply  felt  Pietl  of  Cbfkp 
Tura  (No.  1566). — Perugino,  the  chief  master  of  the  Umbziea  sdki 
Jb  well  represented  by  an  Important  early  work,  a  ronnd  pi 
the  M&doDiiA  with  SS.  Rose  and  Cal\iM\.iift  ^^.V^W^.b^  the 


OaUery.  2.   LOUVRE.  Ill 

between  Capid  and  Chastity  (1505;  No.  1567 j,  by  the  St.  Sebastian 
irom  the  Sclana  Gbillery  (No.  1566  a^,  and  by  seTeral  other  works. 
—  The  Louvre  also  possesses  several  important  creations  of  Andrea 
Uantegnoy  a  master  of  Upper  Italy :  Mt.  Pamassns  (No.  1375)  is 
perhaps  the  most  harmonious  of  these,  but  the  Victory  of  Minerva, 
ihe  Madonna  della  Vittoria,  and  the  small  Oruciflxlon  (Nos.  1376, 
1374,  1373)  deserve  careful  study.  —  The  evolution  of  Venetian 
>ainting  maybe  traced  in  the  San  Giovanni  Caplstrano  and  St.  Bernard 
>f  VtvarirU  and  CriveUi  (Nos.  1607,  1268),  the  ably  individualized 
[Jondottiere  of  AntoneUo  da  Messina  (No.  1134),  the  fine  double- 
)ortrait  of  OentiU  BeUini  (No.  1 156),  the  Madonna  of  Qiovanni  Bellini 
'No.  1158),  the  St.  Stephen  of  Carpaccio  (No.  1211),  and  the  Ma- 
lonna  of  Cima  da  Conegliano  (No.  1259). 

In  pictures  of  the  great  Italian  masters  of  the  16th  cent.  (^Cinque- 
iento*)  the  Louvre  is  richer  than  any  other  gallery  on  this  side  of  the 
!Up8.  Many  of  these  were  acquired  by  Francis  I.  In  the  first  place 
itands  Leonardo  da  Ftnci,  whom  the  French  are  inclined  to  claim 
LS  one  of  their  own  artists.  It  is  true  that  the  authenticity  of  some 
>f  the  works  attributed  to  him  here  is  contested.  The  small  An- 
nuncialion  of  his  early  period  (No.  1602a)  is  one  of  these.  Another 
is  the  *Vierge  aux  Rochers'  (No.  1599),  which  many  critics  hold  to 
16  a  copy,  executed  under  the  artist's  supervision,  of  the  picture 
A  London.  The  vigorous  St.  Anna  (No.  1598)  has  also  long  passed 
Tor  a  cartoon  executed  by  a  pupil,  but  there  is  a  growing  tendency 
to  hold  all  these  works  genuine.  The  great  work  of  Leonardo  in  the 
[<ouvre  is,  however,  his  Mona  Lisa  (No.  1601 ;  p.  115),  the  most 
selebiated  female  portrait  in  the  world,  the  Sphinx-like  smile  of 
i^hich  has  exercised  the  wits  of  generations  of  poets  and  artists  and 
(till  fascinates  in  spite  of  the  darkened  condition  of  the  canvas. 
The  portrait  known  as  *La  Belle  Ferronnifere'  (No.  1600)  is  better 
>reserved.  A  characteristic  illustration  of  the  state  of  religion  in 
Leonardo's  time  is  afforded  by  the  fact  that  he  has  used  the  same 
nodel,  and  almost  in  the  same  attitude,  for  John  the  Baptist  and  for 
Bacchus  (Nos.  1597, 1602).  —  Among  the  numerous  excellent  pic- 
ures  of  Leonardo's  school,  those  of  Bernardino  Luini  (frescoes  in  the 
$alle  Duch^tel)  and  Andrea  Solario  merit  especial  attention. 

No  gallery  in  Europe  is  so  amply  supplied  with  works  of  Raphael 
18  the  Louvre.  To  his  earlier  period,  before  he  had  shaken  off  the 
nfluence  of  Perugino's  school,  belong  the  charming  little  pictures 
»f  St.  George  and  St.  Michael,  which  he  is  said  to  have  painted  for 
he  Duke  of  Urbino  (Nos.  1503, 1502,  p.  120).  A  gem  of  his  Floren- 
ine  period  is  the  'Belle  Jardiniere',  painted  in  1507  (No.  1496; 
>.  116).  To  his  early  Roman  period  belongs  the  *Vierge  au  Voile' 
Ko.  1497;  p.  120).  His  last  and  ripest  period  is  illustrated  by  the 
lortrait  of  Oastiglione  (No.  1505),  the  large  Holy  Family  (No.  14QBV 
md  the  St.  Michael  conquering  Satan  (No.  1504).  lLYi^\«.«.\.tvQ^Qi)&'^ 
wwever,  painted  in  1518  by  order  of  Leo  X. ,  as  a  glit  ioi  Wie  Voi^  wv^ 


112  2.  LOUVRE. 

qaeen  of  France,  were  executed  with  considerable  haste  and  wiUi 
the  help  of  pupils ;  the  St.  Michael,  moreover,  has  heen  tramfemd 
to  canvas  and  freely  retouched.  The  famous  portrait  of  the  heantlftal 
Johanna  of  Aragon  (No.  1607)  appears  to  have  been  chiefly  execated 
by  Giolio  Romano.  Thus,  on  the  whole,  it  can  hardly  be  said  that 
the  works  in  the  Louvre  give  an  adequate  impression  of  Raphael'i 
development  and  greatness.  —  Andrea  del  8arto  and  fVo  Bor- 
tolomeo  are  well  represented,  the  former  espedally  by  his  eelebiated 
Caritas  (No.  1514),  the  latter  by  a  large  Holy  Family  (No.  1164). 

Correggio  is  seen  at  the  Louvre  in  two  works  only,  but  both  of 
these  are  fine :  the  Marriage  of  St.  Catharine  (No.  lilt)  and  Jupiter 
and  Antiope  (No.  1118). 

Of  all  the  great  masters  Titian  is,  perhaps,  the  most  brilliaatly 
represented  in  the  Louvre.  The  religious  scenes  are  the  most  im- 
portant. The  Madonna  with  the  rabbit  and  the  Rest  on  the  FU^t 
into  Egypt  (Nos.  1578, 1580)  reveal  the  artist  as  a  sympathetie  deUi- 
eator  of  domestic  idylls.  The  Christ  at  Emmans  (No.  1681)  nther 
approaches  the  genre  style,  but  is  lifelike  and  pleasing.  The  Sb- 
tombment  (No.  1684),  perfect  alike  in  lighting  and  coloniing,  li 
grouping  and  action,  and  the  imposing  Christ  crowned  with  thom 
(No.  1583)  are  full  of  the  most  effective  and  dramatie  pathos.  A 
work  over  which  the  master  has  shed  a  radiant  poetic  halo  Is  tki 
Sleeping  Antiope  approached  by  Jupiter  in  the  fbim  of  a  Satft, 
formerly  known  as  the  Venus  del  Pardo  (No.  1587).  Titian's  nini- 
valled  skill  in  the  delineation  of  vigorous  manhood  and  womaidj 
beauty  is  illustrated  by  the  picture  known  as  Titian  and  his  Mlstmi 
(No.  1590),  the  Portrait  of  Francis  I.  (No.  1688),  the  Tonng  mai 
with  the  glove  (No.  1592,  *L*homme  an  gant*),  and  the  allegorieii 
work  referring  to  the  departure  of  Alphonso  Davalos,  Manhese  del 
Yasto,  the  famous  general  of  Charles  Y.  (No.  1589).  — Fahna  FeeeUp 
is  represented  by  a  fine  Adoration  of  the  Magi  (No.  1390).  Ai 
injustice  would  be  done  to  Oiorgione,  if  we  judged  him  ^  ths 
Rustic  Festival  (No.  1136),  highly  as  this  work  has  been  pnlisd. 
—  For  the  study  of  Paolo  Veronese  the  Louvre  is  second  only  ti 
Yenice.  His  large  banqueting  scenes  and  his  Christ  at  KmmsT* 
(No.  1196)  have  stamped  an  indelible  impression  on  Delsonlx  ani 
through  him  on  the  whole  of  modern  French  art. 

The  renown  of  the  Spanish  pictures  in  the  Louvre  had  Its  oi||b 
in  a  time  when  Spain  was  seldom  visited  by  travellers,  and  lAv 
the  treasures  which  Madrid  and  Seville  possessed  were  known  saly 
in  limited  circles.  However,  the  Louvre  still  contains  move  BpsaM 
works  than  any  other  gallery  out  of  Spain.  Among  these  sn  As 
magnificent  portrait  of  PhiUp  lY.  (No.  1732)  and  two  eelebiatii 
Infantas  (Nos.  1731,  1735)  by  Velatque*.  MuHUo  is  stUl  bettor  li* 
presented.  The  most  famous  of  his  works  in  this  ooUeetlon  islfe 
Oonception' (No.  1709),  while  the  brilliant  'Nativity  of  the  Tk|lr 
(No.  1710),  the  'Cuisine  dea  Angaa^  ^o,  VI\SV  ^Ji%  B«wk  * 


QaUery.  2.    LOUVRE.  113 

CNo.  1717),  and  the  Holy  Family  (No.  1713)  are  also  admirable 
specimens  of  Ms  power.  Rihera  is  well  represented,  and  a  fine  fe- 
male portrait  by  Goya  has  recently  been  acquired. 

The  Lon^re  is  unusually  rich  in  paintings  of  theFLBMiSH  School, 
mainly  of  its  later  period.  Among  the  earlier  works  the  most  note- 
worthy is  Jan  van  EycWa  Madonna  revered  by  the  Chancellor  RoUin 
(^No.  1986).  With  this  may  be  ranked  MemUng's  large  Madonna  in 
the  Dach&tel  Collection  (No.  2026),  a  Descent  from  the  Cross  by 
Bogier  van  der  Weyden  (No.  2196),  and  the  Banker  and  his  wife  by 
Quinten  Matsys  (No.  2029).  The  late-Flemish  school  is  magnificently 
represented  by  Rvbens ,  by  whose  brush  the  gallery  possesses  21 
large  scenes  from  the  Ufe  of  Marie  de  Mtfdlcis  (Nos.  2085-2105 ; 
pp.  126,  127).  These  large  decorative  works,  remarkable  for  their 
richness  of  colouring,  their  lifelike  vigour,  and  their  strangely  effec- 
tive combination  of  allegory  and  realism,  were  originally  painted 
for  the  Luxembourg  Palace  and  have  recently  had  their  proper  effect 
restored  by  being  assigned  to  a  room  by  themselves.  The  other 
pictures  by  Rubens,  though  somewhat  inferior  to  those  at  Antwerp, 
Munich,  and  Vienna,  afford  ample  opportunity  for  a  study  of  the 
great  painter.  The  broad  humour  of  his  Flemish  Fair  (No.  2115) 
exhibits  him  to  us  in  an  entirely  new  light.  —  The  large  and 
splendid  portrait  of  Charles  I.  of  England  (No.  1967)  is  the  best  of 
the  many  line  works  of  Van  Dyck  which  the  Louvre  possesses.  — 
The  collection  of  34  pictures  by  the  ever-green  David  Tenters  ^  on 
whom  Louis  XIY.  looked  with  contempt,  now  forms  one  of  the  chief 
boasts  of  the  gallery.  More  than  half  of  them  were  presented  by  La 
Caze  (p.  141)  in  1869.  —  Snyder s  and  Jordaens  are  also  well  re- 
presented. —  For  Fhili'ppe  de  Champaigne,  who  died  in  Paris,  see 
the  Introduction  (p.  xlv). 

The  Dutch  Mastbbs  of  the  17th  cent,  can  be  thoroughly  appre- 
ciated only  on  their  native  soil,  but  the  Louvre  gallery  possesses 
good  specimens  of  the  handiwork  of  all  the  most  celebrated.   Rem- 
brandt contributes  no  fewer  than  twenty  works.   The  best  of  the 
religious  paintings  are  the  Christ  at  Emmaus  (No.  2539)  and  the 
Angel  of  Tobias  (No.  2536),  a  work  of  marvellous  poetry  and  un- 
excelled in  lighting  and  harmony  of  motion.  The  two  Philosophers 
and  the  ^Carpenter's  Family*  (Nos.  2540-42)  are  charming  interiors  j 
the  Woman  bathing  (No.  2649)  is  another  excellent  though  realistic 
piece.  The  portraits  are  mostly  of  his  later  period.  The  most  effective 
is,  perhaps,  that  of  himself,  painted  in  1660  (No.  2552).   The  por- 
traits of  a  young  man  and  young  woman  (Nos.  2545,  2547)  and 
the  portrait  of  a  man  from  the  La  Caze  collection  (No.  2551)  are  also 
admirable  examples  of  his  later  period.    The  best  manner  of  Frans 
MaU  is  illustrated  in  his  portraits  of  the  Beresteyn  family  (Nos.  2386- 
:     88),  the  portrait  of  Descartes  (No.  2383),  and  th^  l»a.w^\vvci^  ^Yt\ 
I    (No.  2384 ;  *La  Boh tfmienne').  Van  der  HeUt  is  also  ^  e\\  te^te^^evvXA^iL 
^   by  his  GaUd Masters  (No.  2394;  p.  129).  —  Tlie  moat  Umoxx^  q1  ^«^ 
Bamdmoim.  Paris,  idtb  Edit.  ^ 


114  2.  LOUYBE.  PMuTt 

small  genre  pictures  is  Don'*  Woman  ^ith  the  dropsy  (No.  23481  but 
this  is  excelled  in  technical  delicacy  by  Terhwrg's  OfUcer  and  Gid 
(^No.  2587),  MeUu*8  Officer  and  Lady  (No.  2459),  and  the  maryellous 
Interiors  by  P.  de  Hooch  (Nos.  2414-15).  Jan  Stem's  TaTem  Festiyal 
(No.  2578)  is  an  admirable  specimen.  —  Among  the  numerons  ex- 
cellent landscapes  of  the  Dutch  School  the  palm  may  be  glTen  to 
J.  van  Ruysdael's  Stormy  Sea  and  Sunlight  (Nob.  2668,  2560)  and 
Hohbema's  Mill  (No.  2404). 

The  only  Ea&ly  Gebman  painter  adequately  represented  In  the 
Louvre  is  Holbein^  the  best  of  whose  eight  portraits  are  those  of 
Kratzer  the  Astronomer,  Erasmus,  Abp.  Warham  of  Canterbury,  and 
Anne  of  Gleves.  Notice  may  also  be  taken  of  the  table-top  painted  by 
Sebald  Beham  and  the  Descent  from  the  Cross  of  the  Cologne  Sdiool, 

There  are  but  twenty  Bbitish  Pictubbb  in  the  Louvre.  The 
attentive  student  of  the  landscapes  of  Wilson,  Oaintiborough,  Con' 
stable,  and  Bonington,  and  of  the  portraits  of  Radmm,  Hoppner,  and 
Lawrence,  may  nevertheless  form  an  idea  of  the  singular  r6le  played 
by  this  school  as  in  .some  measure  the  connecting  link  between 
French  art  of  the  18th  cent,  and  the  school  of  1830. 

Our  notes  on  the  French  School  will  be  found  in  the  Intro- 
duction (p.  XXX v). 

Arrangement  of  the^Fictures.  As  indicated  at  pp.  90  ft  110, 
it  is  not  at  present  practicable  to  describe  the  pictures  in  the  exact 
order  in  which  they  are  distributed  throughout  the  various  saloons. 
Only  a  few  rooms  were  ready  at  the  time  of  going  to  press.  For  the 
rest  we  simply  give  alphabetical  lists  of  the  most  Impoortsnt 
pictures,  arranged  by  schools,  and  indicate  the  rooms  in  -whieh  thej 
will  in  all  probability  be  placed.  As  labels,  with  the  names  of  ths 
artists  and  the  subjects  of  the  paintings,  have  also  been  plaeed  on 
the  frames,  there  should  be  no  great  difficulty  in  finding  the  woiln 
selected  below.  The  painters'  family  names,  and  not  the  namsi 
by  which  they  are  more  commonly  known,  are  given;  thoS) 
Sanzio  (more  correctly  Santt)  instead  of  Raphael,  VeeeUio  instead 
of  Titian,  etc. 

From  the  Vestibule  (p.  109)  we  enter  the  — 

Salle  Duch&tel,  which  contains  five  paintings  bequeathed  in 
1878  by  the  Comtesse  Duchatel,  viz, :  421.  Ingres,  (Edlpos  wotfiai 
the  riddle  of  the  Sphinx  (1808);  *422.  Ingres,  The  Spring,  tbi 
artist's  masterpiece,  finished  in  1856;  *2026.  Memling,  MadoiiBi 
and  Child,  with  SS.  James  and  Dominic,  and  the  donozi,  a  woik  of 
solemn  dignity  and  appropriate  colouring ;  *2480,  *2481.  iiiil.  Mbff 
(Sir  Anthony  More),  Portraits,  probably  Louis  del  Bio,  an  ofXIetal  ff 
Brabant,  and  his  wife. 

This  room  also  contains  several  frescoes  of  Bernardino  LMi 
transferred  to  canvas;  1357,  1358,  1359,  *1360,  *1361.  Tvobeyi 
with  vine-folhge,  Nativity,  Adoi%.tioT\  ot  l\i^  ^h^viherds,  and  GUM 
pronouncing  a  blessing. 


OaUery,  2.  LOUVBB.  115 

On  OUT  fliBt  yisit  to  the  gallery  it  is,  however,  advisable  to  traverse 
the  Salle  Duch&tel  without  stopping  and  begin  onr  inspection  with 
the  — 

**8«Io]i  Carri,  which,  like  the  Tribnna  in  the  Ufflzi  at  Florence, 
contains  the  gems  of  the  collection.  The  ceiling  is  richly  sculptured 
by  Simart. 

To  the  right  of  the  entrance:  *2il3.  RuberUy  Helena  Fourment, 
second  wife  of  the  artist,  and  two  of  her  children  (unfinished); 
^1505.  Raphael,  Portrait  of  Count  Baldassare  Castiglione,  a  poem 
regarding  which  still  exists,  painted  about  1516,  with  masterly 
management  of  the  different  shades  of  colour  (comp.  p.  Ill); 
•♦1117.  CorreggiOj  Betrothal  of  St.  Catharine,  *with  a  celestial  ex- 
pression in  the  faces',  says  Yasari. 

♦♦1601.  Leonardo  da  Vtnei,  Portrait  of  Mona  (Madonna)  Lisa, 
wife  of  the  painter's  friend  Fr.  del  Giocondo  of  Florence,  and  hence 
known  as  *La  Gloconda*. 

Leonardo  worked  four  years  on  tWs  painting,  and  then  left  it  un- 
finished. Any  one  desirous  of  seeing  bow  far  art  can  succeed  in  imitating 
nature  should  examine  this  beautiful  head,  says  Vasari. 

♦1136.  Qiorgioney  Bnstic  festival:  very  charming  from  the  depth 
and -warmth  of  the  colouring,  the  golden  glow  of  the  flesh  tones, 
and  the  rich  treatment  of  the  landscape,  in  spite  of  its  having  been 
freely  retouched.  ♦2647.  Rembrandty  Portrait  of  Hendriclqe  Stoffels 
(165:2). 

♦1590.  TUian,  'La  Maltresse  du  Titien',  a  girl  at  a  toilet-table, 
wdth  a  man  behind  her  with  two  mirrors,  perhaps  Laura  Dianti  and 
Duke  Alphonso  of  Ferrara,  painted  shortly  after  1520. 

^The  light  is  concentrated  with  unusual  force  upon  the  face  and  bust 
of  the  girl,  whilst  the  form  and  features  of  the  man  are  lost  in  darkness. 
We  pass  with  surprising  rapidity  from  the  most  delicate  silvery  grada- 
tions of  sunlit  flesh  and  drapery,  to  the  mysterious  depth  of  an  almost 
unfathomable  gloom,  and  we  stand  before  a  modelled  balance  of  light 
and  shade  that  recalls  Da  Vinci,  entranced  by  a  chord  of  tonic  harmony 
as  sweet  and  as  thrilling  as  was  ever  struck  by  any  artist  of  the  Vene- 
tian school.'  C.  A  C. 

Above:  ♦1193.  Paolo  Veronesey  Christ  in  the  house  of  Simon 
the  Pharisee,  painted  in  1570-75.  —  1464.  Tintoretto  (Jac.  Robuati), 
Susannah  and  the  Elders ;  1221.  Annibale  Carracci,  Pietlk. 

♦♦1498.  Raphael,  'Holy  Family  of  Francis  L*  (painted  at  Rome 
in  1518). 

'This  picture  is  one  of  the  richest  and  most  dramatic  compositions  of 
Raphael,  in  care  and  uniformity  of  execution,  in  fulness  and  grandeur 
of  the  nude,  in  breadth  and  delicacy  of  the  drapery,  in  lightness  and 
freedom  of  the  motions,  and  in  powerful  effects  of  colour,  this  work 
approaches  most  nearly  to  the  Transfiguration  in  the  Vatican'.  —  Waagen. 

Above  (no  number),  Ghiido  Rent,  Hercules  and  Achelous. 

♦741.  N,  Poussiny  Diogenes  throwing  away  his  bowl.    Above, 
1427.  Jac»  da  Ponte  (Bassano),  Descent  flrom  the  Cross.   *1731. 
Velazquez,  Infanta  Margaret,  afterwards  wife  of  Leo^oV^l.  ^1  kxvsXTv^ 
(*&  child,  but  a  royal  childf  destined  to  be  a  qaeQn^*). 

319,320.  Claude  Lorrainj  Sea-piece,  Landa^ia^e. 


116  2.  LOUVRE.  PMvn 

**1496.  Raphael  J  Madonna  and  Child  with  St.  John,  naiiaUy 
caUed  *La  Belle  Jardiniftre';  Florence,  1507. 

^With  the  Madonna  and  Infant  Christ,  who  are  repreaented  al(me  in 
the  simpler  and  earlier  representations  of  the  Madonna,  ia  aiaociated  the 
young  St.  John.  This  addition  has  not  only  given  rise  to  more  Tiried 
gestures  of  infant  life,  bnt  has  enabled  the  master  to  form  a  more  recolar 
group.    Standing  or  kneeling  at  the  Madonna^s  feet  are  the  two  ehiMren, 


forming  a  broad  pedestal  for  the  composition,  which  is  easily  and  natur- 
ally completed  by  the  Madonna.  This  idea  was  first  expressed  bysenlp- 
tors,   and  afterwards  eagerly  adopted  by  Florentine  painters*  (BprimgT.: 


ally  completed  by  the  Madonna.    This  idea  was  first  expressed  bysenlp- 
tors,   and  afterwards  eagerly 
''Raphael  A  Michael  Angelo"). 

1644.  Italian  School  of  the  16th  cent,  Poitrait  of  a  youth, 
formerly  ascribed  to  Raphael,  perhaps  by  Franeiabigio.  AboTO, 
437.  Jouvenet  (He  Qratid'),  Descent  from  the  Cross  (1697).  Abore 
the  door:  1150.  Barocci,  Virgin  enthroned;  *1134.  AnUmeUo  da 
Messina  J  Portrait  of  a  man,  generally  known  as  the  Oondottiere 
(1475). 

*1598.  Leonardo  da  Vinci  j  Madonna  and  Infant  Gbilit  with 
St.  Anne. 

This  cartoon  was  brought  to  France  by  Leonardo  and  was  probaUy 
executed  by  himself.  It,  however,  afterwards  found  its  way  back  to  Italy, 
where  Richelieu  bought  it  in  1629.  Tbe  drapery  of  the  Madonna  has  loit 
its  colour.  —  There  are  several  sketches  for  this  picture  at  WSndaor. 

No  number,  Guido  Renij  Hercules  on  the  faneral  pyre. 

*288.  Foucquety  Portrait  of  Guillaiime  JuYenal  des  Urtins,  Ohaa- 
cellor  of  Charles  VII.  and  Louis  XI. ;  ♦1190.  Paolo  Veronese,  Holy 
Family :  *743.  Poussinj  Portrait  of  the  artist  in  his  66th  yeu.  Above, 
1143.  GuercinOj  Patron- saints  of  Modena. 

**1192.  Paolo  Veronese,  Marriage  at  Cana,  flniih«d  in  1668, 
a  perfect  ^symphony  in  colours'.  This  is  the  largest  pletnie  In  ilM 
collection,  being  32  ft.  long  and  21  ft.  high,  and  occupyinf  neaxlT 
the  whole  S.  wall. 

lu  all  probability  it  celebrates  the  marriage  of  Eleanor  of  Anitria  to 
William  Gonzaga  in  1561.  Hence  the  numerous  portraits,  the  identity  of 
which  has  been  much  canvassed.  The  musicians  are  portralte  of  Vesetfi* 
painters  of  the  day.  Paolo  Veronese  himself,  in  white,  plays  OA  tliaH^ 
behind  him  Tintoretto  with  a  similar  instrument,  on  the  other  fide  Tltiis 
with  a  bass-viol,  and  the  elder  Bassano  with  a  flute. 

*1592.  Titiant  Young  man  in  black,  holding  a  glove,  oi  'L'HomiM 
au  Gant',  an  admirable  portrait  of  his  middle  period  (comp.  p.  112); 
1354.  B.  Luini,  Infant  Christ  asleep.  ♦1588.  Portrait  of  FrandiL 
of  France,  painted  about  the  year  1530  from  a  medal,  and  yetn- 
producing  the  characteristically  quaint  features  and  royal  bearing 
of  that  monarch.  Above,  1219.  Annilale  Carracci,  The  Madonm 
appearing  to  St.  Luke  and  St.  Catharine. 

*1504.  Raphael,  St.  Michael  the  conqueror  of  Satan,  painted  b 
1518  for  Francis  I.  of  France,  but  often  retouched ;  a  work  of  «^ 
lime  poetical  character  and  strikingly  sudden  in  tiie  action  (eoaf- 
p.  111).   Above  (no  number^  Ouido  Reni,  Hercules  and  tbe  hydli- 

Above  the  door  to  the  Galetie  d'ApoUon  (p.  137):  1242.  Ai« 
Pontormo  (Jacopo  Oarrucci),  Wft\U\ivoiv» 


OaUery.  %  LOUVBE.  117 

*1584.  Titian^  Entombment  of  Christ,  painted  for  the  Duke  of 
Mantua  about  1523. 

A  picture  of  marvelloiis  effectiveness  in  form  and  expression.  The 
^arm  of  its  colouring  culminates  in  the  contrast  between  the  high  lights 
)f  the  heads  and  the  sombre  gradations  of  the  background. 

Above,  •1198.  Pcu)lo  Veronese,  Jupiter  hurling  thunderbolts 
igainst  the  Grimes,  once  a  ceiling-painting  in  the  assembly-hall  of 
the  Council  of  Ten  in  the  Doges'  Palace  at  Venice. 

**1583.  Christ  crowned  with  thorns,  painted  about  1560. 

^The  pictures  of  this  period  show  various  allusions  to  antiquity.  Ti- 
iian  seems  to  have  been  specially  interested  in  the  Laocoon.  The  im- 
>ression  produced  on  him  by  that  work  is  most  worthily  utilised  in  the 
shief  figure  in  his  ^Crowning  with  thorns%  although  the  master's  efforts 
o  attain  fidelity  to  nature  have  led  him  into  exaggerations  foreign  to 
tntiquity.  —  Strangely  enough,  though  warm  and  golden  in  general  tone: 
he   picture  has  less  variety  and  more  uniformity  of  colour  than  usual. 

C.  ie  C. 

Above,  1538.  L,  Spada,  Concert. 

*1118.  CorreggiOy  Antiope  and  Jupiter  disguised  as  a  satyr, 
3xecnted  about  1518,  for  the  Duchess  of  Mantua;  the  atmosphere 
L8  full  of  magical  charm,  and  the  conception  is  na'ive  and  unaffected. 
Above,  *1154.  Quido  Beni,  Dejanira  carried  off  by  the  Centaur 
Nessus.  —  Over  the  entrance  to  the  Salle  Duchatel:  723.  Nic. 
Fou98in,  St.  Francis  Xavier  resuscitating  a  dead  woman  in  Japan, 
>ainted  in  1641. 

"We  may  now  pass  through  the  door  nearly  opposite  and  enter 
;he  Grande  Galerie  (p.  119);  but  in  order  to  obtain  a  better  chrono- 
logical survey  of  the  Italian  School,  it  is  advisable  first  to  visit  the 
lo-cslled  Salle  des  Primitifs,  the  first  saloon  on  the  right. 

The  Salle  des  PrimitifB  (formerly  known  as  the  Salle  des  Sept 
Mhires),  or  Room  YII,  contains  an  admirable  collection  of  pictures 
>f  the  earlier  Italian  School,  particularly  by  Florentine  masters  of 
ihe  15th  century. 

On  the  right:  1268.  C.  OHvelli,  St.  Bernardino  of  Siena;  1400. 
FcUmeuano,  Body  of  Christ  supported  by  angels^  *1211.  Carpaccio, 
3t.  Stephen  preaching  at  Jerusalem;  *1259.  Cima  da  ConegUano, 
tfadonna  and  Child;  1394.  Montagna,  Concert  of  children;  Gentile 
Bellini  and  hii  School^  ♦1156.  Portraits,  1157.  Reception  of  a  Vene- 
lan  ambassador  at  Cairo;  ♦1158.  Oiov,  Bellini  {'i),  Madonna  with 
3S.  Peter  and  Sebastian;  1384.  Massone,  Nativity,  with  saints  and 
loners.  —  The  following  four  pictures  were  painted  for  *11  Paradiso', 
i  room|[of  Isabella  d'Este,  Duchess  of  Mantua  (see  photograph  of  II 
Paradiso  at  the  entrance  of  this  room):  1261.  Lor,  Costa,  Court  of 
;he  Muses,  held  by  Isabella  d'Este,  an  attractive  allegory ;  Andrea 
lfafU«pna,  ♦1375.  Mount  Parnassus,  1376.TheVice8  banished  by  Wis- 
lom,  companion  to  No.  1375 ;  1567.  Perugir^o,  Conflict  between  Cupid 
md Chastity.  —  Between  Nos.  1375  and  1376  is  No.^1374.  Madonua. 
leUaYlttoria,  one  of  Mantegnd's  last  works,  paiuU^  a.AiOuX.V^^'^  lot 
jHov.  Franc.  Goniaga,  Duke  of  Mantua.  —  A.\)ove ,  \t>b^.  Cosirxxo 


118  2.  LOUYRB. 

Tura,  Pieta,  a  crude  work,  bnt  charged  with  feeling;  2721.  Hforih 
Italian  School  (c.  1500) ,  Annunciation  and  saints.  —  P§mffku>^ 
1566a.  St.  Sebastian  (a  late  work),  1566.  St.  Paul,  1566.  Holy 
Family  with  angels;  1279,  1278.  QentiU  da  FabrianOy  Scenes  from 
the  life  of  the  Virgin. 

*1564.  Peruginoj  Madonna  and  Child  with  angels,  St.  fiose,  and 
St.  Catharine. 

'An  early  work ,  remarkable  for  clearness  of  outline,  pure  and  rieb 
brilliancy  of  colour,  and  soft,  pale  yellow  flesh  tone.* 

Orom4  4  OmfMOcmaUU. 

1665.  Sienese  School,  Mt.  Calvary;  1388.  Simone  Martini^  Ohiist 
on  the  way  to  Calvary^ 

On  the  wall  at  the  end :  *1312.  OioUo,  St.  Francis  of  Ajsisi  re- 
ceiving the  stigmata;  below,  Yision  of  Innocent  in.,  the  same  pope 
confirming  the  statutes  of  the  order  of  St.  Francis,  and  St.  Fnuids 
preaching  to  the  birds :  a  genuine,  signed  picture,  pvinted  fbr  the 
Plsans.  —  *1260.  Cimahue,  Virgin  and  angels,  a  strange  composition 
resembling  a  Russian  icon.  —  1151.  BartolOj  Presentation  in  the 
Temple. 

The  door  in  this  wall  (generally  closed)  Icadd  to  the  upper'landing  of  the 
Escalier  Daruy  where  a  few  fine  early-Italian  pictures  are  kept  (comp.  p.  187). 

On  the  next  wall,  as  we  return:  1313-1317.  School  of  OioUo, 
Funeral  of  St.  Bernard,  Madonnas,  Birth  of  St.  John  the  Baptist; 
1301.  Qaddi,  Annunciation;  1658.  Florentine  School,  St.  Jerome; 
FraAngelico  daFiesole,  1293.  Martyrdom  of  SS.  Oosmas  andDamlan, 
1291.  Daughter  of  Herodias  dancing.  —  Above,  1273.  Paolo  UceeUo^ 
Battle. 

*1319.  Benozzo  Oozzoli^  Triumph  of  St.  Thomas  Aquinas. 

Above  is  Christ,  with  Paul,  Moses,  and  the  Bvaagelists.  la  the  caatre 
of  the  glory  is  the  celebrated  theologian  between  Aristotle  and  Plato;  at 
his  feet,  overwhelmed  by  his  eloquence,  is  Guillaume  de  St.  Amour,  a 
professor  of  the  Sorbonne;  below,  an  ecclesiastical  assembly  with  Pope 
Alexander  IV. 

♦1290.  Fra  AngeUco  da  FieBole^  Coronation  of  Mary,  with  aeees- 
sories,  extolled  by  Yasarl.  the  faces  of  the  saints  full  of  holy  aspin- 
tion  (freely  restored).  —  1345.  School  of  Fra  FiUppo  Idffpi,  Hadmuu 
and  OhUd;  1320.  B.  OozzoU,  Altar-piece;  1296.  BottfeelH,  Tke 
Magnificat;  *1344.  Fra  Fil.  JUppi,  Madonna  and  Child  with  two 
sainted  abbots  (an  early  work) ;  *1296.  BotticeUi,  Madonna  with  the 
Child  and  John  the  Baptist  (a  fine  youthful  work);  *1343.  Ff 
Filippo  Lippi,  Nativity.  D.  Qhirlandajo,  1322.  Portndtt  of  a  sua 
and  a  boy;  *1321.  Visitation,  fine  alike  in  colouring,  line,  and  ex* 
pression.  *1263.  Lor.  di  Credi ,  Madonna  and  Child  with  uintii 
1167.  Fr.  Bianchi,  Madonna  enthroned,  between  SS.  Benediet  and 
Quentin ;  1607.  B,  Vivarini,  San  Giovanni  da  Capistrano.  -^  Above 
the  door :  1512.  Lo  Spagna  (?  not  Raphael),  God  the  Father 
angels,  frescoes  removed  from  the  Villa  MagUana  neai  ~ 
*id73.  ManUgna,  Crucifixion,  one  of  the  predelle  of  thelaifs  tltar- 
piece  of  San  Zeno  at  Veroua. 


QaUery,  2.  LOUVRE.  119 

The  *eTa&de  Galerie,  or  Boom  YI,  1230ft.  in  length,  is  divided 
into  six  hays,  marked  A,  B,0,  D,  E,  F,  on  the  dividing  arches.  The 
first  sections  contain  the  works  of  the  iTAUJUf  Schools  of  the 
Rbnaissanoe  ('Oinquecento'),  so  far  as  these  have  not  found  a  place 
in  the  Salon  Carre. 

Albania  1111.  Diana  and  Actaeon. 

Albertinelli,  •1114.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  SS.  Jerome  and 
Zenohlns. 

Amerighi  (Michelangelo)j  see  Caravaggio. 

Bagnacavallo,  1438.  Circumcision. 

BarbardU  (Oiorgio)^  see  Oiorgione, 

Barbierij  see  Ouercino, 

Barocci  (Fed.),  1149.  Circumcision. 

Bartolomeo  (Fra),  1153.  Annunciation.  —  *1154.  Holy  Family 
(1511). 

'Christ  gives  the  ring  to  the  kneeling  Catherine  of  Siena.  This  charming 
idea,  rendered  with  Leonardesqae  elegance,  conveys  a  sense  of  great  affec- 
tion and  veneration  towards  Christ  on  the  part  of  his  mother,  expressed 
chiefly  hy  movements  emulating  those  of  the  Bella  Giardiniera  in  softness.' 

C.  A  C. 
Bassano  (Jacopo  da  Ponte),  1426.  Wedding  at  Cana. 
Berrettini  (Pietro)j  1163.  Madonna;  1165.  Romulus  and  Remus. 
Boliraffio,  '1169.  Madonna  of  the  Casio  Family. 
Bomfa%io,  1170.  Resurrection  of  Lazarus;   1171,  1172.  Holy 
Family. 

Bordone,  1179.  Portrait;  1180.  Man  attd  child. 
Borgognone  (Ambr.),  1181.  Presentation  in  the  Temple ;  1182. 
St.  Peter  of  Verona  and  a  kneeling  woman. 

Bronzino  (Agnolo),  1183.  Christ  and  the  Magdalen;  1184.  Por- 
trait of  a  sculptor. 

Calcar  (Johann  von),  1185.  Portrait  of  a  young  man. 
Caliari  (Paolo),  see  Veronese. 

Canaletto  (Antonio  Candle),  *1203.  Grand  Canal  at  Venice. 
Caravaggio,  *1121.  Death  of  the  Virgin;  1122.  Fortune-teller; 
1123.  Concert;  ♦1124.  Portrait  of  Alof  deWignacourt,  Grand  Master 
of  the  Knights  of  Malta  (1601). 

Carracci  (Annibale),  1227.  Martyrdom  of  St.  Stephen ;  1232. 
Fishing;  1233.  Hunting. 

Carracci  (Jacopo),  see  Pontormo. 
•     Cewri,  surnamed  Cavalier e  d'Arpino,  1256.  Diana  and  Action. 
Domenichino,  ♦I 613.  St.  CecUia;  1616.  Triumph  of  Love. 
Dosso  DosH,  1276.  St.  Jerome. 
Fiuoli  (Lorenzo  di  Pavia),  1284.  Holy  Kinship. 
FeU,  1287.  Melancholy;  1288.  Country  life. 
Francia  (Francesco),  1435.  Nativity ;  •1436.  Crucifixion. 
Oarho  (Raffaelino  del),  1303.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin. 
Garofalo,  1553.  Holy  Child  asleep. 
Ohirlandajo  (Benedetto)j  1323.  Christ  on  the  wa^  to  Q^qX^^VX^^. 


120  2.   LOUVRE. 

Ohirlandajo  (Ridolfo)j  1324.  Ck>ronatio]i  of  the  Yizgiii. 

Oiorgioney  1135.  Holy  Family. 

Orimaldl  1327.  Washerwoman. 

Ouardi,  1330-1333.  Venetian  f^tes. 

QuercinOj  1139.  Raising  of  Lazarus;  1146.  Hersllia  separating 
Romulns  and  Tatius. 

Outdo  Rent,  1439.  David  with  the  head  of  Goliath;  1447.  Ecoe 
Homo;  1450.  St.  Sebastian. 

Luini  (Bernardino),  1363.  Holy  Family ;  *1 356.  Salome  with  the 
head  of  John  the  Baptist;  1356.  Forge  of  Vulcan. 

Manfredi,  1368.  Fortune-teller. 

Maratta  (C),  1379.  Portrait  of  Maria  Maddalena  Rospigliosl. 

Marco  da  Oggiono,  1382.  Holy  Family;  •1382a.  Madonna. 

Mazzola,  see  Parmigiano. 

Mola  (Pier  Francesco)^  1390.   Preaching  of  John  the  Baptist; 
1392.  Vision  of  St.  Bruno. 

Palma  Vecchio,  •1399.  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds. 

Panetti  (Dom.)y  1401.  Nativity. 

Panini  (Qiov.  P.),  1402.  Banquet;  1408.  Interior  of  St.  Peter's 
at  Rome;  1409.  Concert  at  Rome. 

Parmigiano,  1385,  1386.  Holy  Families. 

Pellegrini  (Ant.),  1413.  Allegory. 

Perugino  (not  Raphael),  •1509.  Apollo  and  Marsyae. 

Piero  di  Cosimo,  1416.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin. 

Pinturicchioy  1417.  Madonna  and  Child. 

Piomho  (Sehastiano  del),  1352.  The  Salutation  (Elome,  1621 ;  un- 
finished), a  most  impressive  picture. 

Ponte,  see  Bassano. 

Pontormo,  1240.  Holy  Family;  1241.  Portrait  of  au  engraTer. 

Primaticcio  (copy  of),  1433.  Concert. 

Raibolini,  see  Francia. 

Ramenghi,  see  Bagnacavallo. 

Raphael,  ^1497.  Madonna  with  the  veil,  also  called  the  Virgin 
with  the  diadem  (p.  HI) ;  1500.  John  the  Baptist  in  thewilderneu, 
probably  genuine,  but  completely  ruined;  •I 501.  St.  Maigazet, 
painted,  according  to  Vasari,  almost  entirely  by  Giulio  Romano; 
•1502.  St.  Michael  (an  early  work) ;  1503.  St.  George  and  the  dzagOBi 
•1506.  Portrait  of  a  young  man,  painted  after  1515  (long  enoneoosly 
regarded  as  a  portrait  of  himself);  ^1507.  Portrait  of  Johanna  of 
Aragon,  painted  in  1518  (the  head  only,  according  to  Vasari,  by 
Raphael,  the  rest  by  Giulio  Romano) ;  1508.  Portraits;  i609a(Q, 
Head  of  St.  Elizabeth.  —  ibii.  School  of  Raphael,  St.  Oatharine 
of  Alexandria ;  1513.  After  Raphael,  Madonna  of  Loretto  (originil 
lost). 

Reni,  see  Guide  Reni. 

Ricciarelli,  surnamed  Daniele  da  VoUerra,  1462.  Dayid  as  eon- 
tjueror  of  Qoli&th. 


OdOery.  2.  LOUYBE.  121 

Rieeio  (Fr.),  1463.  Holy  Family. 

Bohuati  (Jac),  see  Tintoretto, 

Romano  (QiuUo),  •lAlS.  Nativity ;  1420.  Triumpli  of  Titus  and 
espaslan;  1421.  Yeniis  and  Yalcan;  1422.  Portrait. 

Eoia  (Salvator),  1478.  Saul  and  the  Witch  of  Endor;  ♦1479. 
avalry  engagement;  1480.  Scene  in  the  Abruzzi,  with  soldiers. 

Sacchi,  ♦1488.  The  four  great  Church  Fathers. 

Santi  (Sanzio)^  see  Raphael. 

Sarto  (Andrea  del),  ♦1614.  Charity  (painted  in  1518)  j  1615, 
516.  Holy  Family. 

Savoldo,  1618,  1519.  Portraits. 

SignoreUi  (Luca)^  ♦1526.  Adoration  of  the  Magi  j  ♦1527.  Frag- 
lent  of  a  large  composition. 

JSolario  (Andrea),  ♦ISSO.  *Madonna  with  the  green  cushion'  (rich 
ad  radiant  in  colouring,  with  a  beautiful  landscape');  ♦lOSl.  Por- 
•alt  of  Charles  d'Amhoise;  ♦1532.  Crucifixion  (1503;  full  of  ex- 
ression  and  fascinating  in  colour) ;  1533.  Head  of  John  the  Baptist. 

JSolimena,  1534.  Heliodorus  expelled  from  the  Temple. 

Spagna,  1539.  Nativity. 

Strozzi,  1542.  Madonna;  1543.  St.  Anthony  of  Padua. 

Tiarini,  1546.  Repentance  of  St.  Joseph. 

TiepolOj  1547.  Last  Supper. 

Tintoretto,  ♦1466.  Paradise;  1467.  Portrait;  1468.  Susannah  and 
he  Elders;  1469.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  saints  and  donors; 
470.  PietroMocenigo;  1471,  1472.  Portraits. 

Titian,  ^1577.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  saints.— ^1678.  'La  Ma- 
Lonna  del  Coniglio',  or  the  Virgin  with  the  rabbit,  painted  in  1530. 

'A  master-piece  in  which  Titian  substitutes  fur  the  wilds  of  Bethlehem 
he  lovely  scenery  of  the  Isonzo  and  Tagliamento.  He  represents  the 
Virgin  seated  on  the  grass  with  her  hand  on  a  white  rabbit,  and  St.  Ca- 
tierine  by  her  side  stooping  with  the  infant  Christ :  a  charming  group  in 
be  comer  of  a  landscape,  —  a  group  on  which  all  the  light  of  the  picture 
1  concentrated,  whilst  the  broad  expanse  behind  with  the  wooded 
^rmstead  in  its  right,  the  distant  village,  the  chain  of  hills,  and  the 
tLT-off  mountains  lost  in  blue  haze,  lies  dormant  under  the  shade  of  a 
ummer  cloud.    St.  Catherine  and  the  Virgin  are  both  portraits.' —  C.  d:  C. 

1579.  Holy  Family  (perhaps  not  entirely  by  the  master's  own 
land);  H680.  Flight  into  Egypt. 

♦1581.  Christ  and  the  two  disciples  at  the  Supper  of  Emmaus, 
tainted  about  1547. 

*A  genre  picture  In  monumental  setting,  a  mixture  of  the  common- 
'lace  and  the  sublime,  forming  a  kind  of  precursor  to  that  naive  and 
"Equant  mode  of  rendering  the  sacred  narrative  which  was  afterwards 
■^adered  almost  classical  by  Paolo  Veronese.'  C.  ie  C. 

1582.  Christ  on  the  way  to  Golgotha;  1585.  St.  Jerome  (in  a 
^tie  moonlit  landscape) ;  1586.  Council  of  Trent. 

♦♦1587.  Jupiter  and  Antiope,  known  as  the  *Venus  del  Pardo', 
k%inted  in  1574.   Comp.  p.  112. 

^Though  ii^ured  by  fire,  travels,  cleaning,  and  restoTing^  \.\ie  Tii«A\.^T- 
H«ee  still  exhibits  TiUan  in  poasession  of  all  the  energy  oi  lAa  ^OTxWi. 


122  2.  LOUVRE. 

and  leads  xu  back  involuntarily  to  the  dftyi  whea  b«  eomfoett  tk 
Bacchanals.  The  same  beauties  of  arrangement,  fonn,  Uglii,  aaA  AbiIs, 
and  some  of  the  earlier  charms  of  eoloiir  are  hare  united  to  a  aflir  Kils 
of  effectiveness  dne  to  experience  and  a  magie  reaifaMM  of  luaA. . . .  Tki 
shape  of  Antiope  is  modelled  with  a  purity  of  eolour  and  iiilliM  of 
roiinding  hardly  surpassed  in  the  Parian  marble  of  the  aaetante.* 

CSC 

*1589.  Allegory,  painted  for  Alphonso  DaTalot,  Mageliaie  del 
Yasto,  reproBenting  that  general  taking  leaye  of  liii  wlfo  whfli 
Bummoned  by  the  empezor  to  Vienna  in  1592  to  light  agiliist  Ae 
TorkB  (see  also  p.  112). 

^  As  an  allegorical  creation  and  as  a  work  of  a  potent  maf  ter  of  odOVi 
Titian's  canvas  is  one  of  the  most  entrancing  that  mm  eror  nmki 
There  is  such  perfect  sweetness  of  tone,  iueh  a  rieh  ftratn  of  kaimov 
in  tints,  such  a  solemn  technical  mastery  ^  that  we  can  do  no  morofta 
look  on  and  wonder/  O.  S  0. 

*1591.  Portrait  of  a  man  in  black,  resembling  Ko.  1088  (in 
p.  116),  and  painted  at  the  same  period;  1598,  1694.  Portandti. 

Tisi  (Benvenuto),  see  Oarofalo, 

TurcM,  1560.  Death  of  Oleopatra. 

Vecelliy  see  Titian. 

Veronese,  1187.  Destruction  of  Sodom;  1188.  Siuannah  aad  Ai 
Elders;  1189.  Swoon  of  Esther  (very  lifelike  and  dnmatio);  1191. 
Holy  Family;  1194.  Bearing  of  the  Gross  (nnflniihed);  UK 
Golgotha  ;^,*1196.  Christ  at  Emmaus  (to  the  xlght,fportiaiti  oftki 
painter,  his  wife,  and  his  brother) ;  1199.  Young  mother. 

Vinci  (Leonardo  da),  1597.  John  the  Baptist  (eomp.  with  li 
1602).  —  *1599.  Holy  Family,  known  as  'La  Yierge  anx  BoflhflO^, 
a  work  of  the  highest  merit  (the  light  on  the  flesh-tlntt  is  ttUIMIr 
iiant,  but  the  shadows  have  become  very  dark;  eomp.  p.  111).  - 
♦1600.  Female  portrait. 

^It  was  formerly,  without  any  authority,  called  Lm  MOtm  ^ii  ^,  . 
(a  mistress  of  Francis  I.),  but  is  probably  the  portrait  of  Zmomim  <kh0k 
the  mistress  of  Ludovico  Sforza,  and  must,  therefore,  Iiat*  been  piJMl  ( 
at  Milan.  The  figure  is  remarkable  for  its  graeefol  and  nobto  b«ri4  [ 
and  attractive  owing  to  the  gentle  tinge  of  melaneholj  wUflh  fwr*^ 
the  features.'  Majltr, 

1602.  (school-piece),  Bacchus,  originally  eompoted  m  John  fl*   ^ 
Baptist  in  the  Wilderness ;  1602a.  Annnnciation.  ^  1608.  JCvw* 
Oggiono  (?),  Copy  of  Leon,  da  Vinci's  fresco  of  the  Iiut  Oiygt 
(at  Milan),  one- third  smaller  than  the  original;  1604.  Alool^ 
Leon,  da  Vinci  (perhaps  Cesare  da  Sesto),  Madonna  with  the 
1605.  School  of  Leonardo  da  Find,  Portrait. 

Zampieri,  see  Domenichino. 

Florentine  School  (15th  cent.),  1661.  Madonna  and 

Venetian  School  (16th  cent.),  1672,  1673.  Portreiti. 


The  central  part  of  the  Grande  Galerie  is  deyoted  to  the  Sn 
School. 

rollanthf  1703.  Moses  audi  t\i«>  'B\«iAw%lRTifth, 


MlntL      I 
theSrAini^ 


QdUwy.  2.  LOUTBE.  123 

Ooya  f  1704.  Gulllemardet,  Fiench  ambassadoi  at  Madrid ;  no 
number ,  ^Portrait  of  a  i^oman. 

fferrera,  1706.  St.  Basil  expounding  his  doctrines. 

Murillo,  ♦1708.  Immacnlate  Conception.  —  •♦1709.  The  Imma- 
culate Conception,  one  of  his  greatest  woiks  (1678),  pervaded  with 
an  intense  sentiment  of  religious  enthusiasm.  As  usual  in  the 
Spanish  School,  the  master  has  drawn  his  inspiration  from  the 
'woman  clothed  with  the  sun,  and  the  moon  under  her  feet,  and  upon 
her  head  a  crown  of  twelve  stars  (Rev.  xii.  1).  The  picture  was 
bought  ftrom  Marshal  Soult  for  615,300  fr.  —  ♦♦1710.  Birth  of  the 
Virgin  (1666);  1712.  Madonna  with  the  rosary  (early  work);  ♦1713. 
Holy  Family  (the  light  and  the  harmonious  colouring  are  of  great 
beauty);  1714  Christ  in  Gethsemane ;  1715.  Scourging  of  Christ, 
on  marble  (a  singular  mixture  of  mysticism  and  realism);  ♦1716. 
Miracle  of  St.  Diego ,  known  as  the  *Cuisine  des  Angps'  (a  poor 
convent  provided  with  food  by  angels');  ♦I 71 7.  Beggar-boy  'cher- 
cbant  ^  d^truire  ce  qui  Vincommode*  (the  intent  expression  is  full 
of  life  and  the  light  admirable). 

Spagnoletto  (Ribera),  ♦1721.  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  with 
charming  Madonna  of  the  Spanish  type ;  1722.  Entombment ;  ♦I 723. 
St.  Paul  the  Hermit. 

Velazquez,  ♦1732.  Philip  IV.  of  Spain,  in  a  simple  but  majestic 
Btyle;  ♦1734.  Thirteen  portraits,  including  Velazquez  himself  and 
Murillo  (left). 

Zwiaran,  ^1738.  Conference  of  St.  Peter  of  Nola  and  St.  Ray- 
mond of  Pennaforte;  1739.  Funeral  of  a  bishop. 

Next  to  the  Spanish  pictures  come  those  of  the  Bbitish  School. 

Beechey,  1801.  Brother  and  sister. 

Boningtony  1802.  Francis  I.  and  the  Duchesse  d'Etampes ;  1803. 
Card.  Mazarin  and  Anne  of  Austria;  ♦ISO^  View  at  Versailles; 
1805.  View  of  Venice;  1806a.  The  old  governess. 

ConstabUj  1806.  Village;  1807.  The  rainbow;  ♦ISOS.  Weymouth 
Bay;   1809.  Hampstead  Heath ;  1810.  The  Glebe  Farm  (spoiled). 

Oairuhorough,  1811,  1812.  Landscapes. 

Hoppner,  ♦1812a.  Countess  of  Oxford. 

Lawrence,  ^1813.  Lord  Whitworth ;  1813a.  Julius  Angerstein  and 
his  wife ;  no  number,  ♦Portrait  of  a  lady  (sketch). 

Morland,  1814.  The  halt. 

Opie^  1816.  The  woman  in  white. 

Philips,  no  number.  Portrait  of  Lamartine. 

Baehum,  1817.  Naval  pensioner. 

Ramsay  (Allan),  1818.  Charlotte  Sophia,  Princess  of  Wales. 

Romney,  no  number.  Sir  John  Stanley. 

WiUon,  •ISig.  Landscape. 

Gbsman  School.    Beham  (Hans  Sebald)^  •Q,T!Q\.  T«;\i\e-\.^^ 
painted  with  four  scenes  from  the  life  of  David  (intbL^k  aec.tixv.^^^^^ 


124  2.  LOUYBB.  Pktm 

portrait  of  Abp.  Albrecht  of  Mayence,  for  whom  the  table  irai  ptinted 
in  1534;  in  the  fourth,  portrait  of  the  artist). 

Cranach  the  Elder,  2703.  Venus  in  a  landacape;  *2703a.  Portrait. 
—  School  of  Cranach,  no  number,  Portrait. 

Denner,  2706.  Old  woman,  of  unriyalled  flnlsh. 

DUtrkh,  2708.  Woman  taken  in  adultery. 

Durer,  *2709.  Head  of  an  old  man ;  2709a.  Head  of  a  child  (both 
a  tempera;  under  glass). 

Elsheimer,  2710.  Rest  on  the  flight  into  Egypt;  2711.  The  Good 
Samaritan. 

Oiltlinifer,  *2711a.  Adoration  of  the  Magi. 

Heinsius,  2712.  Princess  Yictoire,  daughter  of  Loois  XY. 

Holbein  the  Younger,  *2713.  Portrait  of  Nic  Kratzer  of  Munich, 
astronomer  to  Henry  YIII.  of  England,  dated  1528,  the  finest  Hol- 
bein in  the  Louvre;  *2714.  William  Warham.  Archbishop  of  Oanter- 
bnry,  at  the  age  of  seyenty,  dated  1528;  ^2715.  Erasmus  of  Rotter- 
dam, exceedingly  lifelike  and  admirably  executed,  with  marrel- 
lously  expressive  hands  (replicas  at  Longford  Oastle  and  Bile); 
2716.  Portrait  of  an  elderly  man;  2717.  Sir  Thomas  More,  thaEngUik 
Chancellor,  a  small  and  spirited  picture,  probably  painted  soon  altar 
the  painter's  arrival  in  England  (15261 ;  *2718.  Anne  of  01e?ei, 
fourth  wife  of  Henry  YIII.,  a  late  work ;  2719.  Portrait  of  Sir  Biehari 
Southwell,  a  replica,  or  perhaps  a  skilful  copy  of  the  pietuie  at 
Florence ;  2720.  Portrait. 

Kauffmann  (Angelica) ,  *2722.  Portraits  of  Baroness  KxQdenei 
and  her  daughter. 

Mengs  (Raphael),  2723.  Queen  Maria  Amelia  Christina  of  Spain. 

Miynon,  •2724.  Chaffinch's  nest;  2725-2729.  Fruit-pieces. 

Fencz  (?),  2730.  St.  Mark. 

Rottenhammer,  2732.  Death  of  Adonis. 

Wyrsch  (Melchior;  Swiss),  2751,  2752.  Portraits. 

Master  of  the  Death  of  the  Virgin  (Cologne),  2738.  Last  Suppei^ 
Preparation  for  the  Entombment,  and  St.  Francis  receiving  the  stig^ 
mata. 

Oerman  School  of  the  15th  cent.,  2736bis.  Madonna. 

German  School  of  the  16th  cent,,  ♦2741,  2743.  Portraits. 

Cologne  School  of  the  1 5th  cent,  *2737.  Descent  firom  the  dOM. 

The  Flemish  School  occupies  the  last  part  of  the  Qrande  Gslerie, 
and  also  the  YanDyck  Boom  and  the  Bubens  Gallery.  The  aiiaii|«- 
ment  of  these  rooms  was  not  completed  at  the  time  of  going  to  jlsMh 
so  that  we  still  adhere  to  an  alphabetical  list. 

Bril  (Matthew),  1906,  1907.  Stag-hunting. 

BrU(Paul),  1908.  Landscape  with  duck-hunters ;  1909.I>IaBi 
and  her  nymphs. 

lirouwer,  i912.  Dutch  tavern-,  1913.  Tavern  scene;  1914  Tke 
wtiiQT'j  1916,  The  operation*,  H^i^.  "l^ift  ^mOwit, 


GaUery.  2.   LOUVRE.  125 

Brueghel  (PUter,  the  Elder;  ^Peasant  Brueghel'),  1917a.  Parable  of 
;he  Seven  Blind  Men. 

Brueghel  (Jan;  ^Velvet  Brueghel')^  1919.  The  Earth,  or  the  Ter- 
estrial  Paradise;  1920.  Air;  1921.  Battle  of  Arbela;  1922-24.  Small 
andscapes ;  1925.  The  bridge  of  Talavera. 

Champaigne  (Phil,  de),  1927.  Christ  at  the  honse  of  Simon  the 
>hari8ee;  1928, 1929.  Last  Supper;  1930.  Crucifixion  j  1932.  Reta; 
1934.  The  nuns  Catherine  Agnes  Amaud  and  Catherine  de  Ste. 
lazanue,  the  painter's  daughter  (to  the  right),  praying  for  the  re- 
overy  of  the  latter  from  paralysis;  1937.  Louis  XIII.  crowned  by 
Victory ;  1938-47.  Portraits,  most  of  them  excellent. 

Cocx  or  Coques  (Gonzales),  1962.  Family  festival. 

Crayer(G.  de),  1953.  Ecstasy  of  St.  Augustine;  *1954.  Equestrian 
portrait  of  Ferdinand  of  Austria,  Stadtholder  of  the  Netherlands. 

David  (Gerard^),  1857.  Wedding  at  Cana. 

Duchdtel,  1960.  Equestrian  portrait. 

Dyck,  see  Van  Dyck. 

Jan  van  Eyek,  •1986.  The  Chancellor  Rollin  revering  the  Vir- 
in,  with  a  beautifully-executed  landscape. 

Tbe  spare  and  big-boned  head  of  the  chancellor  is  one  of  the  most 
lacinating  of  Van  Eyck's  male  portraits.  The  Virgin  possesses  neither  youth 
or  beanty,  and  yet  there  is  about  her  a  solemn  and  even  imposing    ir. 

Francken  the  Younger,  1990.  The  Prodigal  Son;  1991.  Passion. 

Fyt,  1992.  Game  and  fruit;  1993.  Game  in  a  larder;  1994.  Dog 
.nd  game ;  1995.  Game  and  hunting  gear. 

Gossaert  (Jan),  see  Mahuse. 

Hemessen,  2001.  Tobias  restoring  his  father's  sight. 

Euysmans  (C),  2002-2009.  Landscapes. 

Jordaens,  2011.  Christ  driving  the  money-changers  out  of  the 
?emple,  somewhat  trivial  in  composition  but  masterly  in  its  realistic 
igour;  2012.  The  Evangelists;  2013.  Infancy  of  Jupiter;  2014. 
iean-feast;  *2015.  Concert  after  supper;  *2016.  Admiral  de  Ruyter; 
i017.  Mythological  banquet. 

MabvM,  1997-1998.  Diptych,  with  Madonna  and  Chancellor 
)arondelet;jl999.  Benedictine. 

Malays  or  Metaya  (Quinten),  ♦2029.  Money-changer  and  his  wife ; 
t030.  CMst  blessing. 

Med,  2022.  Halt;  2023.  Travellers'  meal. 

MenUing,  •2024.  John  the  Baptist;  *2025.  Magdalen;  *2027, 
^7a.  Betrothal  of  St.  Catharine,  with  John  the  Baptist  and  the 
lonor ;  *2028.  Triptych,  with  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Stephen,  Re- 
urrection,  and  Ascension. 

Meiaya  (Jan),  ♦2030a.  David  and  Bathsheba. 

Meulen  (A,  van  der),  2031-2050.  Scenes  from  the  reign  of 
[.ouis  XIV. 

Ooat  the  Elder  (J.  van)^  2067.  San  Carlo  Boriomeo  ^^ixi\ttv^\.«r^^% 
extreme  unction  to  the  pJague-stnelien, 

Pourdus  Oe  Younger  (F.),  2068.  Last  Suppex  •,  *10^^ .  ^^^'ExwxftK^ 


126  2.  LOUVRE. 

of  Assisi  receiving  the  stigmata;  2070,  2071.  Henii  IT.  of  France ; 
2072,  2073.  Marie  de  M^dicis;  2074.  Gaillaame  dn  Yalr,  keepei<tf 
the  Great  Seal. 

Rubens,  *207d.  Flight  of  Lot,  signed  and  dated  (1625);  *2076. 
Elijah  in  the  wilderness  (painted  as  a  pattern  for  tapestry);  2077. 
Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  2078.  Madonna;  2079.  Madonna  in  a  garland 
of  flowers;  2080.  Flight  into  Egypt  (sketch);  2081.  RaUlng  of  La- 
zarus; 2082.  Cni<^iflxion ;  2083.  Triamph  of  Religion  (for  topestry); 
*2084.  Tomyris,  Queen  of  the  Scythians,  causing  the  head  of  Oyzni 
to  he  dipped  in  a  yessel  full  of  hlood. 

*2085-2105.  Series  of  21  large  paintings,  all  bat  three  in  the  new 
Rubens  Gallery.  Marie  de  M^dicis,  widow  of  Henri  IT.,  for  a  time 
regent  for  her  son  Louis  XIII.,  and  afterwards  exiled,  xetnniAd  to 
France  in  1620,  and  resolYed  to  embellish  her  Lnxembonig  Palace 
with  paintings  on  a  yery  extensive  scale.  Rubens,  to  whom  the  tuk 
was  entrusted,  came  to  Paris  in  1621,  where  he  painted  the  sketehes 
(eighteen  of  which  are  now  at  Munich),  after  which  he  retained  to 
Antwerp  and  executed  the  pictures  there  with  the  aid  of  his  paplls. 
In  1625  the  completed  works  were  brought  to  Paris,  where  they 
received  a  few  final  touches  from  Rubens  himself.  The  aeenee  are 
as  follows :  —  2085.  The  three  Fates  spin  the  fortunes  of  Maiie  de 
M^dicis.  —2086.  Birth  of  Marie  (1575,  at  Florenoe);  Lacina,  the 
goddess  of  births,  is  present  with  her  torch ;  Florentla,  the  goddesi 
of  the  city,  holds  the  new-born  infant ;  on  the  right  is  the  riTor* 
god  of  the  Amo.  —  2087.  Her  education,  conducted  by  Mlnerra, 
Apollo,  and  Mercury ;  on  the  right  are  the  Graces.  —  *2088.  Aiaoi 
shows  the  portrait  of  the  princess  to  Henri  IT. ;  aboTo  are  Jupiter 
and  Juno;  beside  the  king  appears  Gallia.  —  2089.  The  naptiali; 
the  Grand  Duke  Ferdinand  of  Tuscany  acts  as  proxy  foi  his  nleoe*i 
husband.  —  2090.  The  queen  lands  at  Marseilles.  —  2091 .  Wedding 
festival  at  Lyons ;  Henri  lY .  in  the  character  of  Jupiter,  and  HailB 
de  M^dicis  in  that  of  Juno;  in  the  chariot  in  front  the  paAroo- 
goddess  of  Lyons.  —  2092.  Birth  of  Louis  XIIL;  behind  the  qoeoi 
is  Fortuna ;  the  infant  is  in  the  arms  of  the  genius  of  HealtL  -^ 
2093.  Henri  lY.,  starting  on  his  campaign  against  Germany  (1610)i 
entrusts  the  queen  with  the  regency.  —  *2094.  Ooronatlon  of  tiM 
queen  by  Cardinal  de  Joyeuse  at  St.  Denis ;  the  king  U  obsttnrad 
in  a  gallery  above.  —  ♦2095.  Apotheosis  of  Henri  IV. ;  below  •» 
Victoria,  in  a  yellow  robe,  and  Bellona  with  a  trophy;  on  the  xl^t 
is  enthroned  the  mourning  queen  between  Minerva  and  WladoM; 
at  her  feet  are  Gallia  and  noblemen.  —  *2096.  Begeney  of  fti 
queen  under  the  protection  of  Olympus;  Mars,  Apollo  (a  eo|f 
of  the  antique  Belvedere),  and  Minerva  drive  away  tiie  hoitfll 
powers ;  Juno  and  Jupiter  cause  the  chariot  of  France  to  be  dnm 
by  gentle  doves.  —  2097.  The  queen  in  the  field  daring  the  dvfl 
war;  she  is  crowned  by  Victoria.  —  2098.  Treaty  between  ~~ 
fan  the  right)  and  Spain  (left)-,  ipiVnckew^^  ^l^^iMi^i 


Gallery.  %  LOUVRE.  127 

mutaally  destined  to  marry  the  heirs  to  the  two  thrones.  —  *2099. 
Prosperity  prevails  during  the  regency ;  the  qneen  enthroned  bears 
the  scales  of  justice;  on  the  right  are  Minerva,  Fortuna,  and 
Abundantia ;  on  the  left  Gallia  and  Time ;  below  are  Envy,  Hatred, 
and  Stupidity.  —  •2100.  The  queen  commits  the  rudder  of  the  ship 
of  the  state,  rowed  by  the  virtues ,  to  Louis  Xm.  on  his  majority. 
—  2101.  Flight  of  the  queen  (1619).  —  2102.  Reconciliation  of 
the  queen  with  Louis  Xni.  —  2103.  The  queen  is  conducted  into 
the  temple  of  peace.  —  *2104.  Marie  de  M^dicis  and  Louis  XIII. 
in  Olympus ;  below  Is  the  dragon  of  rebellion.  —  *2105.  The  god 
of  time  brings  the  truth  to  light;  above  is  the  king  giving  his 
mother  a  chaplet  of  peace. 

2106.  Portrait  of  Francesco  de  M^dicis,  father  of  Marie;  2107. 
Johanna  of  Austria,  his  wife ;  2108,  2109.  Queen  Marie  de  M^dicis 
as  Bellona  and  as  Gallia;  2110.  Sketches  for  Nos.  2036  and  2105; 
'''2111.  Baron  Henri  deVicq,  Netherlandish  ambassador  at  the  French 
court;  2112.  Elisabeth  of  France,  daughter  of  Henri  IV.;  *2114. 
Portrait  of  a  lady  of  the  Boo^en  family;  *2115.  Flemish  Fair  (see 
p.  113);  *2116.  Tournament,  a  spirited  sketch;  2117.  Landscape. 
Also  a  number  of  sketches. 

ByckaeH,  2137.  Studio. 

Seghers,  2140.  St.  Francis  of  Assisi. 

Snyders,  2141.  Earthly  Paradise;  2142.  NoaVs  Ark;  2143.  Stag- 
hunt;  2144.  Boar-hunt ;  2145.  Fishmonger;  2146.  Dogs  in  the  pantry ; 
2147.  Fruit  and  animals. 

Tenien  the  Younger  (David),  *2165.  Peter's  Denial  (among  the 
soldiers  at  the  table  is  the  artist  himself);  *2156.  The  Prodigal 
Son ;  •2157.  The  Works  of  Mercy ;  ♦2168.  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony; 
♦2169.  Village  fete;  2160.  Tavern  by  a  brook;  2161.  Rustic  dance; 
*2162.  Tavern  with  card-players;  2163.  Tavern  scene;  2164.  Hawk- 
ing; 2165.  Smoker;  2166.  Knife-grinder;  2167.  Bagpipe  player; 
2168.  Portrait  of  an  old  man;  2169.  Blowing  soap-bubbles;  2170. 
ViUage  fair;  2171.  The  duet;  2172.  Tavern;  2173.  Interior;  2174. 
Village  fete ;  2175.  Tavern ;  2176.  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony ; 
2177.  Tavern;  •2178.  Guitar  player;  2179.  The  alms- collector; 
2180.  Bowls;  2181.  Drinker  and  smoker;  2182,  2183.  Summer  and 
winter;  2184.  Chimney-sweep";  2185-88.  Landscapes. 

YanDydb  (Anthony),  1961.  Madonna  and  Child;  ♦1962.  Virgin 
and  donors;  1963.  Pieta;  1964.  St.  Sebastian  ministered  to  by 
angela;  1966.  Venus  demanding  arms  foriEneas  from  Vulcan ;  ♦1966. 
Binaldo  and  Armida.  ♦♦1967.  Portrait  of  Charles  L  of  England,  with 
his  horse  held  by  an  equerry ;  a  truly  kingly  portrait,  executed  with 
^respectful  familiarity'  and  marked  by  aristocratic  bearing,  unself- 
eonecioasness,  beauty,  and  the  most  refined  ^joie  de  vivre'.  ♦1968. 
Children  of  Charles  I. ;  ♦1969.  Duke  Charles  Louis  I.  ol  ^^n^t^^ 
(fnll-face)  and  his  brother  Robert,  Duke  of  Oumbet\a.ii^\  V^l^. 
laUxitB  JsahelU ,  Regent  of  the  Netherlands,  as  a  C\«nft%v5\^«  ^^^% 


128  2.   LOUVRE. 

*1971.  Eqaestrian  portrait  of  FranclBco  de  Moneade;  1973.  Portraits 
of  a  man  and  a  child;  *1974.  Lady  and  her  daughter;  *1975.  Duke 
of  Richmond;  1976,  1977.  Portraits;  *1979.  Head  of  an  old  man ; 
1983.  Por.'rait  of  the  artist.  —  ♦1985.  Van  Dydt  or  Buberu(^% 
President  Richardot  of  Brassels  and  his  son. 

Veen  or  Venius  (Otho  van),  2191.  The  artist  and  his  family.  '^ 

Weyden  (Rogier  van  der),  •2195.  Virgin  and  Child;  •2196.  Pieta. 

Flemish  School  of  the  15-16th  cent,  2197.  Holy  Family;  •2198. 
Spiritual  instr action;  "^2201.  Mater  Dolorosa;  •2202.  Angels  appear- 
ing to  the  Shepherds;  2202a.  St.  Jerome;  •2202b.  Madonnai  with 
donors  (triptych);  2203.  Pieta;  2204,  ^2205.  Portraits: 

Flemish  School  of  the  17th  cent.,  2208.  Old  woman. 

Flemish  or  Dutch  School  of  the  16thcent.,  2212.  Adam;  2218.  £?e. 

Some  Smaller  Roomsi  adjoining  the  Rnbens  Gallery,  are  de- 
voted to  the  Dutch  Schools. 

Aelst  (W.  van),  2298.  Grapes  and  peaches. 

Aertsen,  no  number,  Fishermen. 

Bakhuisen,  2304-2309.  Sea-pieces. 

Bega  (Corn  J,  2312.  Rustic  interior. 

Berchem,  2313.  Environs  of  Nice;  2314,2318-23.  Landseapef 
with  cattle;  2315.  Ford;  2316.  Watering-place;  2317.  Ferry. 

Bergen  (D,  van),  2325.  Landscape  with  cattle. 

Bloemaert,  2327.  Nativity. 

Bloot,  no  number,  Ford. 

Bol  (FerdJ,  *2330.  Mathematician;  2331.  Portrait. 

Bosch  (Bier on.),  surnamed  Van  Aken{^)^  nonumher,  Lait  Judg- 
ment (perhaps  the  right  wing  of  Dierick  Bout8*B  Resurrection  t( 
Lille). 

Both,  2332,  2333.  Landscapes. 

Brekelenkam,  2^)37.  The  consultation 

Craesbeeck,  2340.  The  artist  painting  a  portrait. 

CuypfAlb.),  ^2341.  Landscape;  ^2342.  Two  riders;  •2843.  Tki 
promenade;  2345.  Sea-piece. 

Decker,  2346.  Landscape. 

Dou  (Gerard),  ^2348.  The  dropsical  woman,  one  of  his  giealeit 
works  :  a  successful  composition,  in  which  the  grief  of  tiie  dsvfkiff 
is  touchingly  pourtrayed ;  most  elaborately  finished,  alihongh  O* 
usually  large  for  this  master  (1663).  2350.  ViUage-grooer;  fSM. 
Trumpeter;  ^2352.  Dutch  cook;  *2353.  Girl  hanging  up  a  eoek •*• 
window;  2354.  Weighing  gold;  •2355.  Dentist;  2866.  Basdiiig  A« 
Bible,  a  very  attractive,  peaceful,  domestic  scene;  2359.  FOittiit 
of  the  artist. 

Duck,  *2360.  Guard-room  (his  masterpiece) ;  2361.  Msisidm. 

Dyck  (Philip  van),  2362.  Sarah,  Abraham,  and  Hagsr;  980& 
Abraham  dismissing  Hagar  and  Ishmael. 

Everdingen,  2365,  2366.  Lai\Aa<i%.^Qft. 
Fictoor,  2371.  Girl's  pottta\t. 


GaUery.  2.  LOUVRE.  129 

Flinch  (Govaert)j  2372,  Annunciation  to  the  Shepherds  j  ♦2373. 
Child's  portrait. 

Ooyen  (Jan  van),  2376,  2377.  Dutch  river-scenes  j  2376,  2379. 
Dutch  canals ;  2378.  Sea-piece. 

Hagen  (J.  van  der),  2380-82.  Dutch  landscapes. 

Bal8  (Dirk),  •2389.  Rustic  festival  (early  work;  ca.  1616). 

HaU(Frans)^  ♦2383.  Portrait  of  Descartes;  ^2384.  Laughing  gipsy 
Xa  Boh^mienne';  ca.  1630);  2385.  Portrait  of  a  woman;  ^2386, 
•^2387,  ♦2388.  Portraits  of  the  Van  Beresteyn  family  of  Haarlem. 

Heem  (J.  D,  de),  2391,  ^2392.  Fruit  and  table  equipage. 

Beemskerck,  2393.  Interior. 

HeUt  (Bart,  van  der),  *2394.  Masters  of  the  GuUd  of  St.  Se- 
bastian, a  small  and  well-preserved  replica  of  the  Amsterdam  paint- 
ng;  2396,  2396.  Portraits. 

Hey  den  (J.  van  der)y  2399-2402.  Dutch  Ylews  and  buildings. 

Hobbema,  ^2403.  Forest-scene;  *2404.  MiU. 

Hondecoeter,  2406-07.  Poultry  scenes. 

Honthorst,  2409.  Concert. 

Hooch  (Pieter  de)^  ^2414.  Court ;  *2415.  Interior  with  company. 

Huysum  (J.  van),  2420-2425  a.  Flowers  (*2420  the  best). 

Jardin(Karddu),  2426.  Golgotha;  2427.  Italian  juggler;  2428. 
^ord;  2431-2435.  Landscapes  with  cattle. 

Kalf,  2436.  Interior  of  a  cottage. 

Keyser  (Th.  de),  2438  a.  Portrait. 

LievenB,  2444.  Visitation. 

Lingtlhac\  2447.  Vegetable-market  at  Rome ;  2450.  Landscape. 

Maes  (Nic,)y  ♦2454.  Saying  grace. 

Meer  (J.  van  der;  Vermeer)  of  Ddft,  2456.  Lace-maker. 

Metm,  2647.  Christ  and  the  adulteress ;  2458.  Market  at  Amster- 
dam ;  ♦2469.  Officer  saluting  a  young  lady,  a  gracefully  conceived 
nd  delicately-coloured  work;  2460.  Music-lesson;  2461.  Chemist; 
►462.  Dutch  woman;  2463.  Dutch  cook;  2464.  Admiral  Tromp. 

Mierevelt,  2465.  Portrait  of  Oldenbarneveldt. 

Idierii  the  Elder  (Frans  van),  2469.  Portrait;  2471.  Tea-party; 
i472.  Flemish  family. 

Mieri8(W.  van),  2473.  Soap-bubbles ;  2474.  Game-dealer ;  ♦2475. 

More  (Sir  Anthony),  2478.  Portrait;  ^2479.  Court- dwarf  of 
Charles  V. ;  2481  a.  Edward  VI.  of  England. 

Moueheron,  2482.  Starting  for  the  chase. 

Neer  (Aert  van  der),  ^2484.  Village-street  by  moonlight. 

Netseher,  2486.  Singing-lesson ;  2487.  Lesson  on  the  bass-viol. 

Nickelen  (Van),  2490.  Vestibule  of  a  palace. 

Oa  (Van),  2492,  2493.  Flowers. 

Ostade  (Adr,  van),  ^2495.  Domestic  scene,  sup^os^^  to  xe^x^- 
Ipiit  the  two  Ostades  and  their  families;  ♦2946.  T^e  ^c\iooVm^?>\.«^^ 
lM«d  iB02  (the  dramatic  force  and  warm  golden  tone  axe  c\i«bT^c,\,«t- 
P    ^4MPKKKB.  Paris,    idtb  Edit.  ^ 


130  2.  LOUVRE.  PUHwre 

istic  of  the  master's  most  finished  style);  *2497.  Fifb-market; 
♦2498.  Interior  of  a  hut;  2500.  Smoker;  2602.  The  drinker;  2603. 
The  reader ;  2504,  2506.  Reading,  The  newspaper. 

Ostade  (Isaac  van),  ♦2608,2609.  TraveUerg  halting;  2510,2611. 
Ice-bound  canals;  2513.  Pig-sty;  2615.  Winter-landscape. 

Poelenburgh  (Com.  van),  2619.  Pasture;  2620,  2521.  Women 
bathing ;  2522.  Ruins  at  Rome ;  2624.  Nymphs  and  satyr. 

Potter  (Paul),  ♦2627.  Oows;  2628.  Grey  horse. 

Pynacker,  ♦2632.  Sunset  scene. 

Ravesteyn,  2534,  2536.  Portraits. 

Rembrandt,  ♦2636.  Family  of  Tobias  revering  the  departing 
angel,  painted  in  1637 ;  yery  characteristic  of  the  matter's  easy  and 
genial  mode  of  rendering  Bible  scenes,  and  admirable  for  its  warm 
and  harmonious  colouring  and  its  poetry  of  chiaioseuro.  —  ^^37. 
The  Good  Samaritan  (dated  1648);  2638.  St.  Matthew  (1611). 

♦2539.  The  Supper  at  Emmaus,  dated  1648,  from  the  eoUeetion 
of  his  friend  the  Burgomaster  Six.  As  in  the  picture  of  Tobias,  a 
subdued  red  is  here  the  predominating  colonr,  and  the  whole  work 
is  pervaded  with  a  warm  and  hazy  glow  (Vosmaer). 

♦2540,  2541.  Philosophers  in  profound  meditation. 

'The  venerable  countenance  of  tbe  old  man,  tbe  faded  colonr  of  his  gar- 
ments, the  reverential  atmosphere,  the  gentle  light,  and  the  truisparency 
of  the  shadows  all  combine  to  shed  an  inexpressible  poetic  radiance  over 
this  picture.'  (B.  Mii^l.) 

♦2642.  Holy  Family  at  Nazareth,  known  as  the  'Carpenter's 
Family',  signed  1640. 

This  family  scene  is  one  of  those  idyllic  pieces  by  means  of  whiek 
Rembrandt  and  other  Dntch  masters  endeavoured  to  funiliarise  the  spec- 
tator with  incidents  from  the  Old  and  Kew  Testament  by  tnmsplanthif 
them  to  the  present.  The  simplicity  and  depth  of  sentiment  which  per- 
vade the  picture  may  be  regarded  as  the  badge  of  the  Protestant  s^rit 
of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries. 

2543.  Venus  and  Cupid  (portraits),  an  early  work;  2544.  Old 
man  (dated  1638) ;  ^2545, 2646.  Portraits  of  a  young  man  snd  young 
woman ;  2648.  Carcase  in  a  butcher's  shop ;  ♦2649.  Woman  after  tbe 
bath  (so-called  Bathsheba;  1664) ;  *2560.  Woman  bathing;  •2561. 
Portrait;  2562,  ♦2563,  2564,  ♦2655.  Portraits  of  himself  (163S, 
1634,  1637,  1660). 

Ruysdael  (J.  van),  ♦2667.  River  in  a  wood,  with  figores  by  B«h  j 
chem,  an  important  work  of  the  master^s  best  period;  *^658.  Stoanf  I 
sea  on  the  Dutch  coast,  a  work  of  marvellous  poetry,  striking  eiNt,  f 
and  masterly  treatment ;  ♦2669.  Autumnal  landscape ;  *2660.  HhB"  I 
tain-landscape ,  with  a  sunbeam  shining  through  tiie  parting  sloiA  [ 
(figures  by  Ph.  Wouverman;  poetically  rendered  and  mastedy  i»  *•  | 
silvery  greenish-grey  tone) ;  ^2601  a.  Margin  of  a  wood. 

Ruysdael  (Salomon  ?),  no  number,  Ford. 

Santvoort,  2664.  Christ  at  Fiiumaus. 
Sorghy  2671.  Kitchen. 


GaUefy.  2.  LOUVRE.  131 

Stem  (Jan)^  ♦2678.  Merry  company  (1674}  rich  in  happy  mo- 
tives and  full  of  hamooi);  *2579.  The  lepast;  2580.  Bad  company. 

SieenrjDjfds^  2681.  Jesus  at  the  house  of  Lazarus. 

Ttihwrg^  *2587.  A  handsome  offlcei  sitting  in  a  room  with  an  el- 
egantly-diessed  girl,  to  whom  he  offers  money :  the  heads  full  of 
life,  admirably  drawn,  and  of  a  delicately-blended  silvery  tone;  one 
of  Ids  finest  works.  *2688.  Music-lesson  (a  work  of  very  delicate 
characterisation);  *2689.  Concert;  2690.  Assembly  of  ecclesiastics 
during  the  congress  at  Munster;  *2591.  Reading-lesson. 

Velde  (Adr.  van  de),  •2693.  Scheveningen ;  2594-96.  Landscapes 
with  cattle  (•2696  the  best) ;  2697.  Shepherd's  family ;  2598.  Winter 
scene  (1668). 

Vdde  (WiUem  van  de),  2600.  Sea-piece. 

Venne  (Adt,  van  de).  2601.  Fete  champetre,  with  allegorical  al- 
lusions to  the  peace  of  1609  between  Archduke  Albert  and  the  Dutch. 

Verkolje,  2602.  Interior. 

VUet  (H,  van),  2606.  Portrait  of  a  young  man. 

Vois  (Ary  de),  2606.  Portirait. 

Weenix  (J.  B.),  2609.  Defeat  of  the  corsairs. 

Weenix  (Jan),  2610.  Game  and  hunting-gear;  *2611.  Spoils  of 
th6  chase ;  2612.  Seaport. 

Wouverman( Philip),  •2621.  Dutch  carnival  scene;  2623.  Starting 
for  the  chase;  2625.  Stag-hunt;  2626.  Riding  school;  2628,  2629. 
Cavalry  skirmish;  2632.  Bivouac;  2634.  Pilgrims. 

Wouverman  (Pieter),  2636.  Tour  de  Nesle  at  Paris  about  1664. 

Wynants,  2636.  Edge  of  a  forest,  with  accessories  by  A.  van  de 
Vdde, 

DuUh  School  of  the  17th  cent.,  2642.  Literary  society. 

The  Vreneh  Booms ,  which  contain  more  than  1000  pictures, 
have  lately  been  entirely  re-arranged.  The  chronological  order  begins 
in  the  Grande  Galerie,  in  the  section  most  directly  reached  by  the 
stairease  in  the  Pavilion  MoUien  and  the  Galerie  Mollien  (comp.  Plan). 

Booms  IX,  X,  and  XI  are  devoted  to  the  older  French  School. 

Booms  XII  and  XIII  are  mainly  occupied  by  the  two  cycles  by 
Le  Sueur, 

Room  XIV  contains  masters  of  the  17th  century.  —  The  E.  door 
of  this  room  opens  on  the  head  of  the  Escalier  Daru  (see  p.  137). 

Boom  XY  (in  the  Pavilion  Denon)  contains  a  collection  of  por- 
traits of  artists  (p.  137). 

In  Boom  XYI  (to  the  E.  of  the  last)  are  paintings  of  the  18th 
century. 

Room  YIU,  a  large  room  to  the  S.  of  the  Poriirait  Room,  contains 
most  of  the  paintings  of  the  second  and  third  quarters  of  the  19th 
tentary. 

Boom  III  (Salle  dea  Sept  Cheminees,  p.  140)  contaiiv^  TXiwv^  ^Qi>is» 
of  the  end  ot  the  iStb,  and  the  beginning  of  the  i^t\i  eenXwrj  ^  ^xA. 


132  2.  LOUVRE.  PUAvfe       ^-^ 

will  probably  be  unaffected  at  present  by  the  new  arrangement       ^^ 
The  pictures  in  the  SaUe  Duchdtel  (p.  114)  also  remain  i — '^ 


The  fullowing  alphabetical  list  of  important  paintings  gives  a  £rir  sor— :^     y^ 
of  the  French  section  of  the  Louvre  Gallery,  so  far  as  not  described  in        ^  /^ 
Salle  Duchatftl,  the  Salle  Henri  Deux,  the  Salle  des  Sept  Chemin^  ^^ 

the  La  Gaze  Cullection.    The  Boman  figures  in  the  brackets  indicate  ^ 

rooms  in  which  the  pictures  will  probably  be  placed.  /i 

Aved  (J.  A.  J.),  9.  Mirabeau  (XVI) ;  10.  Oazee,  the  painter  {T%nj' 
11.  J.  F.  de  Troy  (XVI). 

Boilly,  28.  Arrival  of  the  diligence  (XVI). 

Boucher  (Ft.)  ,  30.  Diana  quitting  her  bath  OtVI) ;  31.  Venui 
begging  Vulcan  for  arms  for  yEneas  (XVI);  32-35,  46.  Pastonl 
scenes  (XVi);  36.  Vulcan  giving  Venus  arms  for  iEneas;  42.  CopidV 
target  (XVI);  43.  Toilette  of  Venus  (XVI);  44.  Venus  disarmini 
Cupid  (XVI);  50a.  Family  scene. 

Bouchot,  50bis.  Fall  of  the  Directory  in  1799. 

Boulogne  (Bon)^  52.  St.  Benedict  resuscitating  a  child  G^^* 

Boulogne  (Jean  de,  sumamed  Le  Valentin),  56.  The  chaste  Su- 
sannah (XIV);  57.  Judgment  of  Solomon  (XIV);  58.  The  Tribute 
Money;  59.  Concert  (XIV). 

Bourdon,  75.  Gipsies  (XIV);  76.  Beggars  (XIV). 

Chardin  (J.  B.  8.),  ♦91.  The  busy  mother  (XVI);  •92.  StyiM 
grace  (his  masterpiece;  XVI);  97.  The  antiquarian  ape  (XVI);  •99. 
Housekeeper  (XVI) ;  several  excellent  still-life  pieces.  •—  Ascribed 
to  Chardin  (i),  117.  Return  from  school  (XVI). 

ChintreuU,  123.  Space  (Vlll);  124.  Roes  grazing  (VHl), 

Claude  Lorrain  (Gellee).  •310.  Harbour  at  snnrise,  flgures  1>T 
J.  Miel  (XIV);  311.  Campo  Vaccine  at  Rome  (XIV);  •312.  UmA- 
scape  v^ith  peasants,  313.  Harbour  at  sunset,  these  two  painted  iB 
1 639  (XIV) ;  ^314.  Mark  Antony  receiving  Cleopatra  at  Tarsus  (XIV) J 
315.  Anointing  of  King  David  (XIV);  •316.  Ulysses  lestoiiBI 
Chryseis  to  her  father,  figures  by  FU,  Lauri  (XIV");  •317.  Harbotf^ 
of  great  vigour  and  depth  of  colouring  (XIV) ;  31b.  Seaport  (XlV)j 
•321.  Landscape  (XIV) ;  322.  Ford  (XIV) ;  ^323.  Month  of  a  hsrixHff 
(XIV)  ;  324.  Siege  of  La  Rochelle  (XIV; ;  325.  Lonis  XDDL  fowW 
the  pass  of  Susa,  near  Turin,  in  1629  (XIV). 

Clouet  (Frani^ois),  128.  Charles  IX.;  •129.  EUzabeth  of  AnsA 
wife  of  Charles  IX. 

Clouet  (Jean;  ?),  126,  127.  Francis  I. 

Cochereau,  135.  David's  studio  (HI). 

Corot  (J.  B.  C.;,  *138.  Morning;  139.  Roman  Fomm  (Vlfi)'-  ^^^ 
140.  Colosseum  (VIII);  ^141.  Landscape  (VIlI);  •141a.  Otf*  ■^«r*'" 
(iandolfo  (Ylll). 

Courhet,  145.  Stags  fighting  (VIII);  146.  Roe-deer  in  a  lUM 
( Vni);  147a.  The  v^ave  (VIH). 

Cousin  (Jean),  155.  Last  Judgment. 

Couture  J  *ib&,  Romans  ot  the  Decadence,  a  once  highly  wimM 
composition  CVJII). 


Gallery,  2.  LOUVRE.  133 

Coypel  (Ant.),  168.  Athaliah  expelled  from  the  Temple  (XVI); 
'0.  Esther  before  Ahasnerns  (XVI). 

Coypel  (Ch,  Ant)j  180.  Perseus  and  Andromeda  (XVI). 

Dauhigny,  ♦184.VintagemBurgnndy  (VIII);  *186.  Sprmg(VIII). 

David  (J.  L.)  ,  189.  Oath  of  the  Horatli;  191.  Lictors  bringing 
ntus  the  body  of  his  son  (VHI) ;  194.  Paris  and  Helen  (XVI) ; 
99.  Mme.  IWcamier,  a  work  (not  quite  finished)  of  classic  dignity, 
inted  in  tender  grey  tones  (VIII);  199a.  Mme.  Chalgrin;  *200a. 
ne.  Morel  de  Tangry  and  her  daughters,  full  of  life  (VIII). 

Delacroix  (Ferd.  V.  E.),  ♦207.  Dante  and  Virgil  ferried  by 
ilegias  over  the  Lake  of  the  Inferno,  a  youthful  work,  full  of  emotion 
822);  *208.  Massacre  of  Chios;  ♦209.  The  Barricade ,  July  28th, 
>30;  210.  Algerian  women;  211.  Jewish  wedding  in  Morocco;  212. 
)n  Juan's  shipwreck  (Byron's  'Don  Juan',  II,  75);  ♦213.  Capture 
Constantinople  by  the  Crusaders. 

Delaroche  (P.),  216.  Death  of  Queen  Elizabeth  of  England  (VIII) ; 
7.  The  sons  of  Edward  IV.  in  the  Tower  (VIII). 

De  Name,  222.  Fair  (XVI). 

Desportes,  224.  Huntsman;  226-248.  Hunting  scenes,  Animals, 
Ill-life  (XVI);  249.  His  own  portrait  (XIH). 

Deveria,  250.  Birth  of  Henri  IV. 

Diaz  de  la  Pena,  ♦251-253.  Forest-scenes  (VHI). 

Drouais,  266.  Charles  X.  and  his  sister  in  their  childhood  (XVI). 

Flandrin  (Hippolyie),  282.  Study  (VIU);  284.  Girl  (VIII);  285. 
[me.  Vinet  (VHI). 

Foucqaet,*^^.  Charles  VII.  of  France,  a  highly  suggestive  portrait 
f  this  ugly  and  wicked  king  (painted  about  1450). 

Fragonard,  291.  Music-lesson  (XVI). 

Freminetj  304.  Mercury  charging  ^neas  to  abandon  Dido. 

Froment,  304bi8.  King  Ren^  and  his  second  wife. 

Fromentinj  305.  Hawking  in  Algeria ;  *306.  Arab  camp  (VIII). 

Qellie,  see  Claude  Lorrain. 

QUyre,  ♦363.  Lost  illusions  (VIII). 

Greuze  (J.  J5.;,  *369.  The  Marriage  Contract. 

'The  success  of  this  work  was  immediate  and  enormous.  The  public 
nut  its  eyes  to  the  want  of  harmony  in  the  colouring,  to  the  discord  of 
""e  tones,  and  to  the  inequality  of  the  execution  ^  it  was  dazzled,  fascinated, 
''^d  thoroughly  satisfied  by  the  drama,  the  thought,  and  the  feeling  which 
poke  in  the  picture.'  (De  Goncourt.) 

370.  The  Father's  Curse,  371.  The  Repentant  Son.  These  are 
'haracteristic  examples  of  the  'bourgeois'  dramas  with  a  ^moral', 
i^Mch  Greuze  was  so  fond  of  painting.  —  *372.  The  Broken  Pitcher, 
•^e  most  pleasing  and  most  popular  of  his  works ;  no  number,  Milk- 
?ul,  a  charming  picture  of  a  similar  character,  bequeathed  in  1899 
>y  the  Baroness  Nathaniel  de  Rothschild;  374,  375.  Heads  of  girls ; 
J81.  Portrait  of  himself  (XVI). 

Gros,  *389.  Napoleon  on  the  field  of  Eylau,  Feb.  ^t\i,  iWl  ^WV^- 
GueriUj  393.  Mneas  telling  Dido  the  woes  ot  Tto^  0^^^\ 


134  2.  LOUVRE.  PMwre 

Iluet  (J.  J5.;,  411.  Dog  attacking  geese  (XVI). 

Huet  (P.),  412.  Inundation  at  St  Clond;  413.  Qniet  morning. 

Ingres  (J.  A.  D.),  416.  Peter  receiving  the  keys  of  Heaven :  •417. 
Apotheosis  of  Homer,  the  artist's  masterpiece,  painted  in  1827  for 
a  ceiling-  418.  Chernbini;  419.  Buggiero  liberating  Angelica;  423. 
Bather;  426,  427.  M.  and  Mme.  Riviere;  425,  428.  Portraits;  no 
number,  Odalisque,  a  masterpiece  of  his  early  period;  *428bis. 
Bertin  the  Elder,  founder  of  the  ^Journal  des  D^ats',  the  most 
lifelike  of  the  master's  portraits  (VIII). 

Jouvenet,  433.  Miraculous  Draught  of  Fishes;  434.  Raising  of 
Lazarus  (XIV). 

La  Berge,  443.  Arrival  of  a  diligence  in  Normandy  (VIII). 

La  Hyre ,  456  Pope  Nicholas  V.  at  the  tomb  of  St.  Francis  of  ^^ 
Assisi  in  1449  (XIV). 

Lancret,  ♦462-465.  The  Seasons  (XVT);  468.  Music  -  lesson —^ 
(XVI);  469.  Innocence  (XVI> 

Largillitre,  ♦483.  Count  de  la  Chltre  (XIV). 

Le  Brun  (Charles)^  494-504.  Religious  scenes  and  personages  ^  • 
505.  Mary  Magdalen,  said  to  be  a  portrait  of  Mile,  de  la  Valli^re —  —, 
mistress  of  Louis  XIV.  (XIV).  ♦509-513.  History  of  Alexander  ihu    -■ 

Great,  painted  as  designs  for  Gobelins  tapestry  (1660  et  seq.).  514 • 

Meleager  and  Atalanta  (XIV);  515.  Death  of  Meleager  (XIVJ. 

Lefhhme,  ♦529.  Master  and  pupU  (XIV) ;  530.  Portrait  (XIV). 

Le  Nain  (Antoine,  LouiSj  and  Mathieu),  539.  Manger;  540.  Smith  j 
541.  Rustic  meal;  542.  Return  from  the  hay-fleld;  643.  Portraits  ; 
♦543a.  Family  gathering;  ^544.  Procession  in  a  church;  647.  Dcnii^  1 
of  St.  Peter  (all  in  R.  XIV). 

Le  Sueur  (Eustache),  553-563  (XII).  Scenes  from  the  Bib»— ^ 
and  the  Acta  Sanctorum,  among  which  may  be  selected  the  folio i^  "" 
ing:  556.  Bearing  of  the  Cross ;  ♦560.  St.  Paul  at  Ephesus,  one  tf:::^^ 

the  artist's  masterpieces ,  the  main  figure  after  Raphael  (1649).  ^- 

564-585  (XII).  Life  of  St.  Bruno,  painted  in  1645-48  far  the  Oa:^- 
thusians  of  Paris,  whose  order  was  founded  by  this  saint;  the  best  ^* 
♦584.  Death  of  St.  Bruno. 

*The  light  of  a  single  candle  falls  on  the  white  cowls,  which  resemta^  ^^ 
^rave-clothes,  aud  on  the  walls,  which  are  white  as  those  of  a  tomb.  .^^° 
inexi)ressible  sadness  streams  from  this  almost  monochrome  painting.^ 

(OmOUr.) 

591-603  (XIII).    Mythological  scones  from  the  H6tel  Lambe?^ 
(p.  228). 

Lorrain,  soe  Claude  Lorrain, 

Marilhat,  615.  Mosque  of  Caliph  el-Hakim  at  Cairo  (VIll). 

Mignard,  ♦628.  *La  Vierge  Jt  la  grappe'  (XIV):  680.  Christ  oU 
the  way  to  Calvary  (XIV);  634.  St.  Cecilia  (XIV);  638.  The  'Orand 
Dauphin*,  son  of  Louis  XIV.,  and  his  family  (XV). 

Millet  (J.  F.),  *641.  Church  of  GrtfviUe  in  Brittany  (VHI);  648. 
Spring  (VIII)-  ^644.  Gleaners,  in  the  poetic  yet  realistic  style  rf 
the  still  nwrv  famous  'Angelus'  O^UV^. 


GhMery.  2.   LOUVRE.  135 

Moreau^  660.  View  near  Paris  (XVI);  651.  View  of  Meudon 
and  St.  Cloud  (XVI). 

Nattier,  657.  Magdalen ;  *658.  Mme.  Adelaide,  fourth  daughter 
)f  Louis  XV. 

Oudry,  666,  668,  671.  Dogs;  670.  Farmyard. 

Parrocel,  678.  Louis  XIV.  crossing  the  Rhine  in  1672  (XVI). 

Pater,  689.  Fete  Champetre  (XVI). 

Perrier,  694.  Acis  and  Galatea. 

Pils,  702.  Rouget  de  I'lsle  singing  his  'Marseillaise'  for  the  first 
lime  at  the  house  of  the  Mayor  of  Strassburg  (VIII). 

Poussin  (Nicholas),  *704.  Eleazer  and  Rebecca ;  705, 706.  Moses 
In  the  ark  of  bulrushes;  707.  The  infant  Moses  spurning  the  crown 
»f  Pharaoh  with  his  feet;  708.  Moses  turning  Aaron's  rod  into  a  ser- 
)ent ;  709.  The  Israelites  gathering  manna  in  the  wilderness  (Rome, 
1639);  710.  The  Philistines  struck  with  pestilence  (painted  at 
iome  about  1630);  *711.  Judgment  of  Solomon;  712.  Adoration 
.f  the  Magi;  713,714.  Holy  Family;  ♦715.  The  blind  beggars  of 
Teiicho  (1651,  one  of  the  best  of  his  religious  pieces);  716.  The 
Woman  taken  in  adultery;  717.  Last  Supper;  718.  Assump- 
ion;  719.  Virgin  appearing  to  St.  James  the  Greater;  720.  Death 
►f  Sapphira;  721.  John  the  Baptist;  722.  Vision  of  St.  Paul; 
f24.  Rape  of  the  Sabine  women ;  726.  The  young  Pyrrhus,  son  of 
he  King  of  Molossus,  rescued  from  the  pursuit  of  his  rebellious 
subjects  by  two  faithful  followers  of  his  father ;  730.  Bacchanal ; 
731.  Narcissus  and  Echo;  732.  Triumph  of  Flora;  733.  Concert; 
*734.  Three  Arcadian  shepherds  and  a  maiden  surrounding  an  old 
tombstone  which  they  have  found  and  which  bears  the  inscription 
'£t  in  Arcadia  ego*  (a  simple,  harmonious,  and  much  admired 
composition) ;  735.  Time  delivering  Truth  from  the  attacks  of  Envy 
and  Discord,  executed  as  a  ceiling-painting  for  Card.  Richelieu 
In  1641 ;  *736.  Spring ,  or  the  earthly  paradise ;  737.  Summer,  or 
Buth  and  Boaz ;  738.  Autumn,  or  the  Spies  returning  with  grapes 
from  the  Promised  Land;  *739.  Winter,  or  the  Deluge;  *740.  Land- 
scape, with  Orpheus  and  Eurydice;  742.  Apollo  and  Daphne,  un- 
finished, the  master's  last  work  (XIV). 

PrudHhon  (Pierre)^  744.  Cracifixion,  the  artist's  last  work  (1822), 
iu  a  sombre  violet  tone  (VIII);  748.  Meeting  of  Napoleon  and  Fran- 
cis II.  after  the  battle  of  Austerlitz  (VIII);  several  small  and  fine 
portraits. 

Raifet,  761bi8,  Soldier  of  the  First  Republic. 

Regnault  ,  770.  Equestrian  portrait  of  General  Prim  (VIU). 

Bietener^  799.  Ravrio,  the  maker  of  bronzes  (III). 

Rigaud  y  Ros,  780.  Presentation  in  the  Temple  (the  painter's 
last  work,  1743) ;  nSl.  Louis  XIV.  (1701) ;  782.  Philip  V.  of  Spain 
(1700);  783.  Bossuet,  the  celebrated  preacher;  *784.  Marie  Se.ii^^ 
mother  of  the  painter;  788,  789.  Portraits;  *7%.  Uo^ifeit  O^fe  ^Q\Xvi^ 
the  architect  ^iZF^. 


36  %  Liwu»^.- 

Eobert  (Hubert),  painter  of  idealized  laiidscapes,  generally  'with 
ncient  ruins  from  South  France  or  Rome:  797.  View  at  Orange; 
98,  799.  Nimes ;  802.  Arch  of  Marcus  Aurelius  at  Rome ;  803.  Por- 
;icus  of  0  eta  via  at  Rome. 

Robert  ( Leopold) ,  816.  Arrival  of  the  reapers  in  the  Pontine 
Marshes ;  817.  Return  of  the  pilgrims  to  the  Madonna  dell*  Areo  at 
Naples  (Vm). 

These  two  lively  representations  of  the  life  of  the  people  in  Italy  excited 
great  admiration  on  their  first  exhibition  (1830)  and  were  praised  by  Heinrich 
Heine. 

Roslin,  820.  Girl  decorating  the  statue  of  Cupid  (XVI). 

Rousseau  (  TkSodJ,  ♦827.  Forest  of  Fontainebleau  at  snnset  (Vni):^ 
♦830.  Marsh  in  the  Landes  (Garonne),  a  work  of  marvellous  delicac^^^ 
of  aerial  perspective  (Vin). 

Scheffer  (Ary),  840.  Temptation  of  Christ  (VHI);  841.  St.  Au 

gustine  and  his  mother  Monica  (VIII). 

Subleyras,  853.  Mary  Magdalen  at  the  feet  of  Jesus  (XVI). 

TocquS,  867.  Marie  Lesczinska,  wife  of  Louis  XV.  (XVI). 

Troy  (J,  F.  de),  884,  885.  ToUette  and  Swoon  of  Esther  (XVI3. 

Troyon,  ^889,  ♦890.  Oxen  going  to ,  and  returning  from  the'lr 
day's  work  (VIII). 

These  two  pictures  are  equally  superb  in  their  lighting,  in  their  land- 
scape, and  in  the  drawing  and  characterisation  of  the  patient  steers.  Ko.  889 
is,  perhaps,  the  finest  animal-painting  of  the  19th  century. 

Van  Loo  (Carle),  899.  Hunters  resting  (XVI);  900.  Queen  Marie 
Lesczinska  (see  above;  XVI). 

Van,  Loo  (J.  B.),  896.  Diana  and  Endymion  (XVI). 

Van  Loo  (L.  M.),  902.  Sonfflot,  the  architect  (XVI). 

Vemet  ( Claude  Joseph),  912-954.  Sea-pieces  and  landscapes,  14 
of  them  in  the  Marine  Museum  (p.  150),  the  rest  mainly  in  R.  XVI. 

Vemet  (Horace),  957.  Judith  and  Holofemes  (Vm);  968. 
Raphael  and  Michael  Angelo  in  the  Vatican  (VIII);  958a.  Isahey, 
the  painter. 

Vien,  965.  Sleeping  hermit  (XVI). 

Vouet  (Simon),  971.  Presentation  in  the  Temple  (XIV). 

Watteau  (Jean  Antoine) ,  ^982.  Embarkation  for  the  island  of 
Oythera  (XVI ;  replica  in  the  Palace  at  Berlin). 

*What  words  can  reproduce  this  delicate,  fragrant,  ideal  colouring,  sc 
aptly  selected  for  a  dream  of  youth  and  happiness?^    (OauHer.) 

French  School  of  the  15th  cent,  995.  Martyrdom  of  St.  Deni 
(perhaps  by  J.  Malouel  and  H.  Bellechose)-,  998.  Descent  firom  th 
Cross;  1004,  1005,  SS.  Peter  and  John,  with  Peter  II.  and  Anne  . 
Burgundy  (1488). 

French  School  of  the  16th  cent.,  1007.  Francis  L ;  1035.  Ball 
the  court  of  Henri  III.  on  the  wedding  of  the  Due  de  Joyeuse  w 
Margaret  of  Lorraine  in  1581. 

School  of  Fontainebleau,    1013.    Diana;   1014.   Continence 
Scipio;  i0i4a.  Toilette  of  Venus. 


QaUery,  2.   LOUVRE.  137 

In  the  Pavilion  Denon,  between  RR.  XIV  and  XVI  of  the  French 
Sohool,  is  a  lofty  saloon  with  vaulted  ceiling,  called  the  — 

Salle  del  Portraits,  which  contains  a  collection  of  portraits  of 
^xr^ts,  founded  in  1887  on  the  model  of  the  collection  at  Florence. 
X'lie  most  interesting  are  as  follows,  from  right  to  left : 

373.  ELJeaurat,  by  Greuze;  525.  Jot.  Vemet,  by  Mme.  LcBrun;  640. 
f^  Mignardy  by  himself ^  *214.  Delacroix^  by  himself;  524.  Hvbert  Robert^ 
^y  Mme.  Le  Bran;  •2552.  Rembrandt  (the  portrait  with  the  gold  chain),  1148. 
^^^reinOy  by  themselves  5  1944.  F.  Mantart  and  CI.  Perrattlt,  by  Phil,  de 
pli.»mpaigne;  1380.  Maraitay  by  himself  5  476.  J.  L.  David,  by  Langlois ;  482. 
^  -Bnw,  by  Largillifere;  760.  P.  Puget,  by  Fr.  Puget;  147.  Courbet.  "521.  Mme. 
^  .^runy  183.  Ch.  Coypely  by  themselves;  492.  Nic.  Covgtou,  by  Largilli^re: 
*-3^2.  Oiotto,  Paolo  UcceUo^  Donatello,  Brunellesehiy  and  Giov.  Maiietti^  \>y 
^-     XJccello.  —  Busts  of  *'Davidy  by  Rude,  and  of  Rude,  by  Becquet. 

The  ceiling  is  embellished  with  paintings  by  Charles  Muller 
^Ivistrative  of  the  history  of  art  in  France  :  St.  Louis  and  the  Saints 
^liapelle,  Francis  I.  in  the  studio  of  one  of  his  artists,  Louis  XIV. 
^^^nning  the  Louvre,  Napoleon  I.  ordering  its  completion. 

The  E.  door  of  Room  XVI  opens  on  the  upper  landing  of  the 
^Scalier  Daru  (p.  91),  where  some  important  early-Italian  pictures 
*e  exhibited. 

*1297, 1298.  Sandro  Botticelli^  Frescoes  from  the  Villa  Lemmi  at  Florence, 
***^<i  to  have  been  painted  for  the  marriage  of  Lorenzo  Albizzi  and  Gio- 
^•*Uia  Tornabnoni,  and  representing  the  Bride  with  the  Graces  and  the 
***degroom  with  the  Arts  and  Sciences;  *1294.  Fra  Angelico,  Criicifi.xion, 
"^J>a  the  old  Dominican  convent  at  Fiesole^  portraits  of  philosophers. 

From  the  Escalier  Daru  we  pass  through  the  door  to  the  left 
of  the  Nike  of  Samothrace  (p.  109),  into  the  — 

Kotonde  d'ApoIlon,  adorned  with  ceiling-paintings  by  Blondel 
(?all  of  Icarus),  Couder  (the  four  Elements),  and  Mauzaisse.  In  the 
^Qtre  is  a  handsome  marble  vase,  imitated  from  an  antique  vase 
^  the  Vatican,  and  surrounded  with  a  modem  mosaic  by  F,  Belloni. 
A.llae  wrought-iron  door  of  the  17th  cent,  on  the  right  leads  to  the  — 

*Oalerie  d'ApoIlon.  This  saloon,  which  is  over  200ft.  In 
length,  was  constructed  in  the  reign  of  Henri  IV.,  burned  down 
wider  Louis  XIV.  in  1661,  and  rebuilt  from  designs  by  Charles  Le 
Bfun,  who  left  the  decoration  unfinished.  It  was  then  entirely 
Delected  for  a  ceiitury  and  a  half,  but  was  at  length  completed  in 
1848-51  by  Felix  Duhan.  It  is  the  most  beautiful  hall  in  the  Louvre, 
and  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  name  dates 
from  the  time  of  Le  Brun,  who  had  intended  a  figure  of  Apollo  to  be 
the  central  point  of  his  decorations,  in  honour  of  the  'Roi  Soleil',  but  the 
present  central  ceiling-painting  by  Delacroix,  representing  'Apollo's 
Victory  over  the  Python',  a  fine  work  both  in  composition  and  colour- 
ing, was  not  executed  until  1849.  The  four  other  large  ceiling-paint- 
fags  depict  the  periods  of  the  day  (beginning  at  the  S.  end) :  Aurora 
Or  Pawn,  by  Ch,  Muller  (1850),  after  Lebrun-,  Castoi  01  \\vfc"NlQT\v\xv% 
Itar  by  A.  Benou  (1781);  then,  beyond  the  ApoWo  (^\i\G\i  ie^T^%ersvV% 
loon),  Morpheas  or  Evening,  Night  or  Diaua,  \>ot\v  M  LeBruu.  \^ 


138  2.    LOUYRE.  ^J, 

four  other  lU'lds,  next  those  in  the  centre,  are  the  geasons  (end  of 
the  18th  cent.),  while  twelve  medallions  in  grisaille  represent  the 
months.  On*  the  vaulting  above  the  entrance  is  the  Triumph  of  Cy-     - 

bele  or  Earth,  with  Bacchantes,  by  J.  Quichard,  after  Le  Brun  (1849).    

In  the  vaulting  over  the  window,  Triumph  of  the  Waters  (Neptuiie  .^^ 
and  Amphitrite),  by  Le  Brun  (about  1665).  The  panels  of  the  walls^^ 
are  adorned  with  portraits  of  twenty-eight  French  kings  and  artists^^  , 
in  modem  Gobelins  tapestry. 

The  beautiful  tables  and  other  furniture  in  this  room  dat^  ,;:: 
chiefly  from  the  reign  of  Louis  XIY.  The  glass-cases  contain:- _. 
^Objects  of  art,  gems,  etc.  The  collection  of  enamels  is  the  mogj.^ 
extensive  and  valuable  in  the  world  (p.  233).   No  catalogue. 

Tablb  I.  ^'Reliquarf  of  8t.  Potmtitm,  a  German  work  of  the  12th  centnr-        ■ 

Gasb  I.  (in  the  centre).  On  the  top  shelf:  at  eaeh  end,  esameUttd  Ve. 
etian  basins;  reliquary  (12th  cent.),  for  an  arm  of  Charlemagne ;  cask 
(13th  cent.),  known  as  the  'coffret  de  St.  Louis';  enamelled  casket  of  f~ 
14th  cent.;  ^Amazon  on  horseback.  Centaur  carrying  off  a  woman, 

works   la  !*ilver-gilt  of  the   16th  century.  —  On  the  middle  shelf:   i ,^ 

the  windows.  Enamelled  croziers   of  the  middle  ages;  paxes  of  the  idj^t^* 
and  16th  cent.;  reliquary  of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi,  from  a  church  in  M^o>^r-c« 
(I^inioges  enamel;  liJth  cent.)i  silver  reliquaries  in  the  form  of  flgureiK     of 
the  Madonna  (15th  cent.);  cylindrical  silver  monstrance  of  the  IStii  eeMoit. . 
ciborium  of  the  13th  cent. ;  cylindrical  monatrance  of  the  15th  century.     .^* 
Below:  Two  reliquaries  in  the  form  of  angels,  and  other  objects  in  aii'^rer. 
gilt,  from  the  Chapel  of  the  Order  of  the  Holy  Ghost  in  the  Louvre,     "hut 
dating  from  the  15th  cent,   and  therefore  anterior  to  the  founding  or   the 
order   by   Henri  III.  (1579).     Small  Romanesque   enamelled   reliquaries- 
thaliccfl,  including  one  of  the  13th  cent.;  holy-water  basin  in  agate   and 
.silvt'r-pilt  (i6th  cent.):  rock-crystal  cross  mounted  in  silver-gilt  (15th  cent.). 
—  On  the  other  side  of  the  case  are  enamelled  vasea,  reliquaries,  etc. 

Cask  11.    Chietly  objects  of  the  IGth  century.     *Paz,  with  enamels 

and  rubies,  from  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Ghost;  *Ciboriam  of  crystal, 

with  silver-gilt  base  and  cover,  adorned  with  chasing,  cameod,  and  geau; 

Uings;  ^Ornaments;  cups  of  sardonyx;  vessel  of   rock-crystal,  ^ped 

like  a  chimiera;  urns  formerly  in  the  possession  of  Cardinal  Maaarin. 

Oahe  IIL  Similar  objects.  On  the  top  shelf :  *EpergnB  of  the  tine  of 
Louis  XIV.,  consisting  of  a  boat  in  lapislaznli  mounted  in  gold  and  enamel; 
Goblets  in  rock-crystal  and  *  Vessels,  beautifully  chased  (tranaluceal.  best 
seen  from  the  other  side ;  the  handle  of  one  is  set  with  enamels  and  ruUef); 
caskets  of  Hungarian  jade.  —  On  the  middle  shelf,  returning:  ^Vessel  of 
sardonyx,  with  enamelled  mounting;  busts  of  the  Ctesars,  the  heads  of 
crystal  or  precious  stones;  ^Agate  cup,  with  cameos;  cups  of  varioas  kisdif 
richly  mounted.  —  Below :  •Vessel  of  agate ;  goblet  of  sardonyx,  with  ena- 
mel mounting ;  incense  vessel  of  green  jasper  adorned  with  enamels;  ▼••• 
of  red  jasper,  with  dragons  as  handles,  attributed  to  Benpenmto  CUlMl 
at  the  end,  antique  *Vase,  with  very  fine  mountings ;  to  the  right,  ^Chy  oi 
sardonyx,  the  handle  in  the  shape  of  a  dragon  studded  with  diamoMft 
rubies,  and  opals;  to  the  left,  a  similar  cup. 

Cask  IV.  contains  the  Grown  Jewels  retained  when  the  rest  wera 
sold  in  1887.  Among  these  are:  the  *Reffeniy  perhaps  the  finest  diaaosd 
in  the  world,  weighing  136  carats  and  worth  12-15  million  francs;  to  th^ 
right,  the  *Mutarin^  a  rose-diamond  of  immense  value,  and  the  ^CMt  <** 
Breia(jne\  a  large  ruby  in  the  shape  of  a  dragon.  In  flront,  *8woTd  Cep^J 
miiitaire"),  made  at  the  order  of  Napoleon  I.,  and  set  with  gems,  valiie<^ 
at  2  million  francs.  —  Behind:  to  the  right.  Crown  t/ L<mii  XF.  (ftlB^ 
fewels)^  to  the  left  Crmon  of  Napoleon  /.,  in  imitation  of  Charlemagne's  i 
between  these,  *Ornamewt  commemorating  tK«  Psace  «/  Vmtkm  (17m  an 
interesting  German  work.    In  front,  V7aU\k  ^T«i«nNi^  \a  U>«la  ZIv.  b) 


d*ApoUon.  2.    LOUVRE.  139 

the  Dey  of  Algiers  ^  pearl  dragon-brooch  and  elephant  of  the  Danish  order 
3f  the  Elephant.  —  To  the  left,  Chdielcdtie  qf  CatJierine  de  MididSy  set  with 
liunonds. 

Case  V.  Objects  of  fhe  16-17th  centuries.  —  On  the  top  shelf:  Vases  of 
rook-erystal.  —  On  the  middle  shelf  and  below:  Vessels  of  sardonyx, 
igate,  and  jasper,  with  enamels,  etc.  —  In  the  centre:  *  Scourging  of 
Christ,  a  statuette  in  blood  jasper,  on  a  richly  ornamented  pedestal. 

Case  VI,  behind,  to  the  left.  —  To  the  left:  ^Enamelled  Reliquary, 
with  the  Virgin  and  Child  (early  14th  cent.).  —  In  the  middle:  Antique 
rates,  in  porphyry  and  sardonyx,  remounted  in  the  12th  cent.  ^  Vase  of 
9lmnor  0/ Aquitaine,  wife  of  Louis  VII.  of  France  and  afterwards  of  Henry  li. 
»f  England  (12th  cent.),  in  antique  rock-crystal,  remounted  in  the  12th  cent. ; 
n  front.  Chalice  in  enamelled  silver  (14th  cent.),  and  Paten  of  the  Abbot  Suger 
)t  8t.  Denis  (12th  cent.) ;  to  the  right,  *Reliquary  for  an  arm  of  St.  Loui* 
/  Toutouee^  enamelled,  on  the  hand  a  sapphire  ring  (14th  cent.) ;  reliquary 
rf  St.  Henry  (12th  cent.);  French  reliquary  cross  (12th  cent.)  and  silver 
Oaqne  (Uth  cent.). 

Case  VU,  behind,  to  the  right.  Gasket  once  belonging  to  Anno  of 
Inatria;  objects  from  the  above-mentioned  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Ghost. 

In  front  of  the  adjoining  window  is  a  handsome  ^Escritoire  formerly  in 
he  possession  of  Louis  XV.,  by  Riesener,  with  bronze  ornaments  by 
ierrieux. 

The  cabinets  along  the  wall  opposite  the  windows,  and  the  glass-cases 
a  front  of  the  windows,  chieQy  contain  'Enamels. 

Like  majolica-painting  in  Italy,  the  enameller^s  art  was  practised  in 
hance  at  a  very  early  date.  Its  culminating  period  was  coeval  with  that 
of  the  School  of  Fontainebleau  (second  half  of  the  16th  cent.),  and  Limoges 
was  ita  headquarters.  The  most  famous  artists  in  enamel  were  Nardon 
PimU^iud,  Leonard  Limousin.  Jean  and  Pierre  Courieyt^  and  Pierre  Reymond, 
The  practice  of  the  art  died  out  in  the  18th  cent.,  but  has  recently  been 
revived  with  some  success.  —  Enamels  are  termed  Cloisonnii  when  the 
eoloared  vitreous  glaze  is  deposited  in  compartments  formed  by  thin  metal 
partitions  (cloisons)  following  the  outlines  of  the  design  on  the  surface  of 
the  plate ;  Champlevit  when  the  compartments  are  sunk  into  the  thickuess 
of  the  plate ;  Translucide*  or  Transparenie  when  the  design  is  incised  on 
the  plate  and  covered  with  transparent  enamel;  and  Painted  (peints)  when 
the  entire  surface  of  the  plate  is  covered  with  coloured  enamel.  Cloisonne 
and  champlev^  enamels  were  made  by  Byzantine  and  mediaeval  artists,  but 
the  translucent  process  was  not  invented  until  the  15th  century. 

By  the  Fikst  Window,  near  the  entrance:  Transparent  enamels  of 
tbe  i4-16th  cent. ;  *Bindinff  of  a  Prayer  Booky  with  filigree  ornamentation, 
^luunels  (symbols  of  the  Gospels),  and  embossed  gold  reliefs  (Crucifixion), 
*  Byzantine  work.  —  Second  Window:  Champlev4  Enamelt  of  the  12th 
cent.,  from  the  Rhine;  Hmogee  Enamels  of  the  13th  century.  —  Thibd 
*n>  FouBTH  Windows:  *Enamels  (*£maux  Feints')  by  the  P^nicauds.  — 
'UTH  Window:  .'Goldsmiths'*  work:  snuflf-boxes,  bonbonni&res ,  caskets, 
^tois,  medallions  with  miniatures,  rings,  chains,  crosses,  pendants,  and 
<>&er  omamentf  enamelled  or  set  with  pearls  and  gems;  cameos;  intaglios. 
^  Sixth  Window:  lAmoges  Enamels  (16th  cent.).  —  Seventh  Window: 
^cles  used  at  the  coronation  of  the  French  kings :  sword  of  the  end  of 
«e  12th  cent. ;  buckle  (i4th  cent.) ;  spurs  (12th  cent.) ;  'Sceptre  of  Charles  V. 
(Uth  cent.) ;  *Hand  of  Justice'  of  the  kings  of  the  3rd  dynasty ;  ring  of 
8t  Louis.  —  Book  of  hours  of  Catherine  de  McSdicis;  mirror  and  sconces 
<>fXarie  de  M^dicis,  set  with  sardonyx  and  cut  and  engraved  agates, 
Pieaented  to  the  queen  by  the  Venetian  Republic;  poniard  of  the  grand- 
*Mter  of  the  Order  of  Malta  (16th  cent.).  —  The  cases  at  the  remaining 
^dows  contain  Limoges  enamels. 

Cases  Xni-XVII,  opposite  the  windows,   contain   enamels   by  P.  Key- 
*<»W,  P.  CourteySj  and  L.  Limousin  (in  the  2nd  and  3rd),  and  other  Lim<)^*i?. 
enamels.  In  the  last  case  also  is  goldsmith's  work:  *  Shield  an^  ^HelmelQ^ 
Charles  IX.  (d.  1574)  in  gold  and  enamel ;  silver  ewer  and  plaVX^x  \tv  T«^vi>^^%^ 
ted  chased  work,  representing  the  expedition  of  Emp.  C\iakx\ta  N.  «.^^w\«N. 
TuDl5  In  i536.  ^  v 


140  2.    LOUVRE.  Salle  des  Bijoux. 

We  letum  to  the  Rotonde,  aud  tnm  to  the  rooms  of  the  Old 
Lonvre  on  the  right,  first  entering  the  — 

Salle  des  Bijonz  Antiques ,  which  is  adorned  with  a  ceiling- 
painting  by  Mauzaissej  representing  Time  showing  the  ruins  that  he 
causes  and  the  works  of  art  he  brings  to  light;  below,  Seasons, 
Elements,  etc.  The  room  contains  an  extremely  valuable  collection 
of  ancient  ornaments,  jewels,  and  enamels. 

1st  Centbal  Case.    At  the  top :  Three  gold  crowns,  including  a  Orteco* 
Etruscan   *Diadem   (unique).    Gilded  iron  helmet  (Gallo  -  Roman) ,   with 
enamel  ornamentation  (found  in  the  Seine  near  Rouen) ;  conical  Btniscan 
helmet,  with  golden  circlet  and  wings;  golden  quirer.    Below  are  goldez^ 
crowns,  necklaces  of  gold,  silver,  enamel,  and  pietra  dura,  some  witb 
artistic  pendants  of  the  finest  filigree  work.    Side  next  the  Seine  (5th  divi  — 
sion,  upper  row) :  *198.  Golden  Etruscan  necklace  adorned  with  a  head  ow     I 
Bacchus  (?)  with  the  horns  and  ears  of  a  bull.    In  one  of  the  fnlln-nrin^      c 
cases  :  •Collar  and  two  ear-covers  in  the  Greek  style,  from  Olbia  (see  below-         y 
—  2sD  Central   Cask.  *Trea*ure  of  Boseo  Realty   consisting  of  94  8ily^^^»ef 
articles  discovered  in  1895  on  the  site  of  a  house  destroyed  by  the  empticBi^  oii 
of  Mt.  Vesuvins  in  79  A. D.    These  objects  are  Alexandrian,  Greek,  ai^^:-_nd 
Roman  works  of  the  1st  cent.,  though  some  are  in  such  admirable  prea^^    er- 
vation  as  to  seem  modern.  —  Wall  Casbs.    Silver  objects:  *(3eres,  wi^^^^ith 
movable  arms  •,  Etruscan  earrings ;  rings  of  Greek  and  Roman  workmanah=-      .^Ip. 

Side  next  the  Coubt.   Small  Window  Case:  Gold  Tiara  of  Saitapharmr 
presented  to  the  king  of  that  name  by  the  Greek  colony  of  Olbia  in  S 
matia,  with  flat  reliefs,  Srd  cent.  B.C.  (?  authenticity  disputed).  —  CSues  to 
Right  and  T^cft:  Buckles,  gold  and  bronze  bracelets,  rings,  collars,  earrings,  n 

Side  next  tub  Seine.    Ut  Case.    Intaglios.    Gold  and  bronze  riic 
bracelets.  —  2nd  Case.    CJameos*,  intaglios-,   ^phalerse^  or  ornaments 
horses,  etc.  —  Srd  Case.    Gold  rings,  with  and  without  precious  stoc 
gold  necklaces  and  earrings ;  bronze  buckles.  —  4th  Case.   Gold  necklai 
plaques  of  beaten  gold;  earrings.  —  6ih  Case.  Silver  vessels  found  atlTa 
Dame-d'Alengon,  near  Brissac  (1836). 

Proceeding  in  a  straight  direction,  we  next  enter  the  — 

Salle  des  Sept  Cheminies,  or  Room  III,  containing  picture  ^  of 
French  Masters  of  the  End  of  the  18th  and  Beginning  of  the  M  ^tk 
Century,  or  of  the  Empire  and  the  Restoration. 

Beginning  on  the  left:  *188.  David,  The  Sabine  women  InteN 
poslDg  between  the  Romans  and  the  Sabines;  in  ttont  Romulus 
about  to  hurl  his  spear  at  Titus  Tatius  (the  artist's  masterpiece; 
1799).  Above,  187.  David,  Leonidas  at  Thermopyls,  finished  in 
1814.  To  the  left  an<l  right:  Qiricault,  339.  Officer  of  chasseurs; 
341.  AVounded  cuirassier.  —  360.  Qirodet-Trioson ,  The  Delnga 
(1814).  Prudhon,  751.  Empress  Josephine ;  *747.  Crime  punned  b/" 
Justice  and  Divine  Vengeance,  a  work  of  tragic  earnestness,  piinteJ. 
in  1808  for  the  Criminal  Court.  Above,  ♦338.  GSrieauU,  Wiock  of 
the  Medusa,  a  French  frigate  which  went  down  with  400  men  on 
board,  of  whom  only  five  were  saved  on  a  raft  (1819;  thU  painting 
created  a  great  sensation)}  392a.  Oros,  General  Fouinier-SsrlOT^- 
746.  Prudhon,  Assumption;  *202a.  David,  Coronation  of  Napo- 
leon I.  (1807)  J  ♦522.  Mme.  Le  Brun,  Portrait  of  the  artist  and  her 
daughter;  391.  (iros,  Bonaparte  at  Arcole;  ♦IdS.  David,  Portnitof 
Pope  Pius  VII.  (1805)-,  B48.  Giricault,  Epsom  Races  in  1821;  526. 
Mme.  Le  /i run.  Mme.  Mo\^-UavmoT\^ ,  o^  \\v^  G^m^dio  Fran^lie 


..,..11,  2.  LOUVRE.  1 

(1786);  343.  Oirieault,  Carabinier;  ♦337.  QSrard,  Portrait  oft 
Marchesa  Yisconti. 

^28.  G/rard,  Cupid  and  Psyche  (1796);  391a.  Gro«,  Portrait  ( 
Mme.  Lncien  Bonaparte;  393.  QuSrin,  Return  of  Marcus  Sextu 
(an  Imaginary  incident);  ♦756.  Prudhon,  Rape  of  Psyche,  a  work  t» 
which  the  artist  largely  owes  his  title  of  Hhe  French  Gorreggio', 
^62.  Oirodet'Trioson,  Burial  of  Atala  (from  a  story  by  Ch&teau- 
briand;  1808).   Above,  ^388.  Oroa,  Bonaparte  in  the  plague-hos- 
pitol  at  Jaffa  (1804) ;  332.  Oirard,  Portraits  of  Isabey,  the  painter, 
and  his  daughter  (1795) ;  396.  OuSrifij  Pyrrhus  taking  Andromache 
and  her  children  under  his  protection  (1810).  This  room  also  con- 
tains numerous  small  portraits  by  David^  Oirard,  Prudhon,  Ingres ^  etc. 
Passing  through  the  door  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  (or  to  the 
right  If  we  face  the  entrance),  we  reach  the  — 

Balle  Henri  n.,  or  Room  II,  a  badly-lighted  room,  with  a  ceil- 
ing-painting by  Blondel ,  representing  the  strife  of  Pallas  and  Po- 
seidon, or  War  and  Peace. 

To  the  right:  834.  8t.  Jean,  Fruit-gathering;  ♦H.  BenouviUe, 
The  dying  St.  Francis  of  Assisi  carried  to  Santa  Maria  degli  Angeli; 
*SSu  Brcucauat,  Landscape  with  cattle;  125.  Chintreuil,  Sun  and 
train  r  143.  Courbet^  The  burial  at  Ornans ;  257.  Diaz,  *No  admis- 
aion  9  883.  St,  Jean ,  Flowers  among  ruins ;  420.  Ingres,  Joan  of 
Jkxo  at  the  coronation  of  Charles  Y II. ;  82.  Brasctissatj  Bull ;  several 
Bketches  by /n^«;  3*61.  Oirodet-Trioson,  Endymion;  ^120.  Chas- 
aSriau^  Tepidarlum;  359.  Oiraud,  Slave-dealer;  above  the  door, 
6t22.   Constance  Mayer,  A  dream  of  happiness;  217a.  P.  Delaroche, 
The  youthful  martyr:    12a.  Bellangi  and  I)au%at,  Review  at  the 
Tnileiies  (1810);  416.  Ingres,  Madonna;  771.  RegnaiUt,  Execution 
^vrithont  trial.  —  A  line  view  is  obtained  from  the  window  at  the  W. 
end  of  this  room.  —  206.  Decamps,  Dogs ;  119.  Charlet,  Grenadier. 
€k>lleotion  La  Case.    This  collection,  which  was  presented  to 
the  museum  in  1869,  forms  in  several  respects  a  valuable  comple- 
ment to  the  Louvre  galleries.  It  chiefly  comprises  French  paintings 
of  the  time  of  Louis  XIV.  and  of  the  rococo  period  of  the  18th  cen- 
tury. The  Dutch  and  most  of  the  Flemish  pictures  were  removed 
in  1900  to  the  cabinets  mentioned  at  pp.  128-131. 

Beginning  on  the  right :  2707.  Denner,  Portrait  of  an  old  woman, 
executed  with  great  delicacy;  Boucher,  46.  Venus  and  Vulcan,  50. 
TouDg  woman ;  335.  Oirard ,  Empress  Marie  Louise ;  Largillitre, 
488.  Portrait  of  President  de  Laage,  490.  A  magistrate,  ^491. 
Portraits  of  the  painter  and  his  wife  and  daughter,  485.  Young 
lady  as  Diana,  484-86.  Portraits.   Above,  1468.  Tintoretto,  Su- 
sannah and  the  elders.  461.  \estier,  887.  De  Troy,  Portraits ;  537. 
^jemoine,  Hercules  and  Omphale;  174.   A.   Coypel,  Democritus; 
94.  Rigaud,  Portrait  of  an  old  man;  1946.  Ph.  de  C^auvpax^ut^ 
>rtrait  (1653);  548.  Le  Nain,  Rustic  meal;  abo^e,  \^\\,  Ijaca 
ordano.  Death  of  Seneca;  77.  Bourdon,  Interloi*,  Rigaud,  ^l^'^.. 


142  2.   LOUVRE.  CoU.LaCaze, 

Portrait  of  the  Due  de  Lesdiguieres  as  a  child,  *793.  Portrait  of 
President  de  B^rulle,  791.  Portrait  of  Cardinal  de  Polignac;  1945. 
Ph.  de  Champaignej  Mayor  and  syndics  of  Paris;  above,  Tintoretto, 
1469.  Virgin  and  Saints,  1472,  1471.  Portraits. 

To  the  left,  in  retracing  our  steps:  Oreute^  378,  382,  392. 
Portraits,  376.  Girl's  head ;  Fragonard,  292.  Pastoral  scene,  297. 
Study,  298.  Inspiration;  2135.  School  of  Rubens,  Horse  attacked 
by  a  lion;  ♦659.  Nattier,  Portrait  of  Mile.  deLambesq,  with  the 
young  Count  de  Brionne  (1732);  above,  769.  J.  B,  Begnault,  The 
Three  Graces;  Lancret,  471.  Boldness  rebuked,  from  Lafontaine, 
470.  Actors  of  the  Italian  comedy ;  765.  Baoux,  Girl  reading  a  letter ; 
above,  1702.  Juan  Carreno,  St.  Ambrose  distributing  alms ;  Nattier, 
660.  Knight  of  St.  John,  661.  Daughter  of  Louis  XV.  as  Vestal; 
Watteau,  985.  'Slyboots'  (*La  Finette'),  984.  Indifference,  986. 
Gay  company  in  a  park ,  *983.  Gilles  and  other  characters  of  the 
Italian  comedy,  987.  Conjurer,  991.  Jupiter  and  Antiope;  Pater, 
691.  The  toilette,  690.  Actors  in  a  park;  117.  Chardin(?),  The 
return  from  school;  *1041.  French  School  (18th  cent.),  Portrait; 
Chardin,  104.  Monkey  as  painter,  103.  The  house  of  cards ,  *93. 
Grace,  105-116.  Still-life;  above,  888.  De  Troy,  Portraits ; 5nyd«r«, 
2148.  Fishmonger,  2149.  Game- dealer.  1735.  J.  B.  del  Mazo 
(pupil  of  Velazquez),  The  Infanta  Margaretha;  VeUuquez,  1733. 
Philip  IV.,  1736.  Portrait;  Ribera  (Spagnoletto),  1724.  Madonna, 
♦1725.  Boy  with  a  club-foot  (1652) ;  Murillo,  1719.  Dnke  of  Ossuna, 
1718.  Quevedo,  the  poet;  1471.  Tintoretto,  Venetian  senator ;  1696. 
School  of  Titian,  Holy  Family;  1674.  Venetian  Sihool  (16th  cent.), 
Portrait.  —  In  the  centre  two  Sevres  vases  (1878). 

The  exit  leads  to  the  staircase  (Escalier  Henri  n.,  p.  99)  of 
the  Pavilion  de  VHorloge  or  Pavilion  SuUy,  through  which  we  may 
quit  the  Louvre.   Beyond  this  staircase,  to  the  left,  is  the  — 

Saloon  of  the  Ancient  Bronzes.  The  saloon,  formerly  the  palace 
chapel,  contains  a  valuable  collection  of  implements,  weapons,  sta- 
tuettes, etc. 

In  the  vestibule,  in  front  of  the  window,  is  a  lifesize  gilded  bronxe  BUitm     = 
of  Apollo,  in  good  preservation,  foand  near  Lillebonne,  in  Normandy. 

Gbntkal  Glass  Case  :  Etrascan  cists,  the  lai^est  of  which  were  foiud    -^ 
at  Palestrina,  near  Borne;   buckles,  collars,   and  bracelets;  aoi^eal  aad^^ 

mathematical  instruments ;  metal  ornaments  in  relief;  Greek  mbron ;  By 

zantine  bronzes;  aniique  stamps  and  keys.   —  Bt  thb  Wotdowb:  in  fhe^s 
centre,   Archaic  Apollo,   an   excellent  work  of  great  historical  interest;      m 
glass-case  containing  busts  and  statnettes  of  Greek  origin,  including  oneL-TS 
of  Dionysofl.    The  large  statues  are  placed  on  pedestals  beside  the  windows.^ 
By  the  middle  window ,  Admirable  head  of  a  youth,  found  at  Benerento^r" 
(a  Greek  work ;  the  eyes  were  inlaid).    Glass-cases  with  Greek  and  Btroacan^cr 
mirrors.  —  Glass  Cases  to  the  biqht,  as  we  return:  Statuettes  and  biutSv 
chiefly  of  deities.  —  Wall  Cabinets,  beginning  on  the  same  side;  Monnta^^ 
handles,  vases   in  the  shape  uf  heads ,   feet  and  ornaments  of  ftimiture.^ 
Ilom&n  balances  and  weights,   domestic  implements,  platters  and  stew^ — ' 
panSf  antique  candelabra  of  every  type,  lamps,  etc.;  then  weapons.  Dreg— -^ 
meats  of  statues,  gladiator^s  armour  Irom  Pompeii,  animals,  iMilmett.    On^^ 
the  cabinets  are  placed  basts.  —  Glass  Cksh  to  t«&  ixr^  as  we  retoni=s=' 
Greek  mirrors  with  supports,  st&tueUes  ol  lem«.\&  ^NVD&)\«b^  tte. 


Dramngt.  2.  LOUVRE.  143 

The  staircase  to  the  left  beyond  this  hall  leads  to  the  second 
floor  (Mustfe  de  Marine,  see  p.  150).  We  next  enter  the  — 

*ColleetioiL  of  Drawings  (Musie  dts  Dessins),  rivalling  the  great 
Florentine  collection  in  the  Ufflzi,  and  nnmbering  37,000  in  all, 
among  which  are  18,200  by  Italian  masters  (358  by  Ann.  Carracci"), 
87  by  Spanish,  800  by  German,  3150  by  Flemish  and  Brabant,  1070 
by  Dutch,  and  11,800  by  French  (2889  by  Le  Brun).  Only  about 
2300  of  these  drawings  are  exhibited,  under  glass.  —  The  ceiling 
paintings  of  the  first  rooms ,  by  Blondel ,  Broiling,  Mauzaisse,  and 
others,  are  explained  by  the  fact  that  the  Gonseil  d'£tat  formerly 
met  here. 

L  Boom.  Old  Italian  masters.  Mantegna^  *Lorento  di  Credit  *Signordli^ 
FkUtaieehiOj  Perugino^  etc.  The  walls  of  this  and  the  following  rooms 
are  covered  with  large  coloared  cartoons  by  Oiulio  Romano.  —  '^*II.  Room. 
Italian.  Drawings  by  the  most  celebrated  masters:  Leonardo  da  Vinct\ 
Michael  Angelo,  Raphael^  Titian^  and  Andrea  del  Sarto.  By  the  central 
window  is  a  snmptuoas  casket  containing  an  address  from  the  town  of 
St.  Petersburg  to  *la'  nation  amie*.  —  lU.  Room.  Italian.  Drawings  by 
Primaiiceio  and  Chrreggio,  including  two  in  gouache,  by  '^Correggio:  Vice 
and  Virtue.  —  IV.  Room.  Bolognese  School.  — V,  Room.  Flemish,  Dutch, 
etc  :  *Bubeni,  *Remhrandty  Potter,  Berchem^  Teniers,  etc.  On  the  wall  to  the 
left,  *565.  Battle  of  knights,  by  Ruben$(l)^  after  the  celebrated  cartoon 
painted  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci  in  1504  in  competition  with  Michael  Angclo 
(not  extant).  In  the  revolving  stand  by  the  window  are  drawings  by 
PouMtin,  Claude  Lorrain,  Ostade,  and  Broutcer,  and  by  Oiricavlt  and  other 
modem  French  artists.  In  the  centre  is  a  fine  silver  vase  with  reliefs  by 
A.  VBchie,  —  Fine  vases  on  the  chimney-piece.  —  From  the  passage  between 
this  and  the  next  rooms  a  small  staircase  (closed)  ascends  to  the  left  to 
the  Kus^e  de  Karine  (p.  icO),  on  the  second  floor.  On  the  other  side  is 
a  eorridor  with  architectural  drawings. 

VI.  Boom.  Chalk  drawings,  chiefly  portraits,  by  Vivien.  Mme.  Gujard^  etc. 
VII-XIV.  Booms.  Drawings  of  the  French  School,  fine  furniture,  and 
frasnnents  of  ancient  stained  gIa.os  (in  the  windows).  B.  VII.  Drnwingt) 
And  admirable  'Miniatures  of  the  14-17th  centuries.  —  R.  VIII.  Varying 
collections.  —  R.  IX.  Drawings  by  Potusin  and  Claude  Lorrain.  —  "R.  X. 
French  School  of  the  18th  cent.,  notably  some  fine  works  by  Watteau  and 
others  by  Fragonard,  Moreau,  the  brothers  8t.  Aubin,  etc.  —  R.  XI  contains 
%he  coloured  cartoons  for  the  stained  glass  in  the  chapel  of  the  Orleans 
^Family  at  Dreux  and  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Ferdinand  (p.  169),  by  Ingres. 
.Also,  fine  drawings  by  PrtMfAon  and  Ingres.  —  A  large  unfinished  oil-paint- 
ing by  Jkmid  (d.  182S))  preserved  in  K.  XII  represents  the  Revolutionary 
^ueetiiig  »k  the  Jen  de  Paume  (p.  825).  One  of  the  four  finished  heads  is 
'^hat  of  Mlrabeau.  The  painting  was  ordered  by  the  National  Convention 
*n  1T90.  Other  specimens  of  David,  Qirard  (fine  portraits),  Qros,  etc.  — 
^.  Xm.  Drawings  by  Oiricault,  Delacroix,  Millet,  ffuet,  etc.  —  R.  XIV. 
^Jrayons  by  •G&ord*'«  (No.  679.  his  portrait,  with  spectacles),  Vivien,  *Quentin 
«f«  la  Tour  (819.  Mme.  de  Pompadour),  Rosalba  Carrieva,  Rob.  Nanteuil, 
«tc.  The  glass-cases  contain  the  greater  part  of  the  'Lenoir  GoUection 
^Don  Lenoir),  which  includes  204  snu£f-boxes  and  bonbonni6res,  8  enamels, 
*74  miniatures,  etc.  The  paintings  comprize  works  by  Augustin,  Blaren- 
9terghe^  Ball,  Isabey,  Petitot^  Van  Pol,  Van  Spaendonck,  etc.  In  the  centre 
^f  the  room  are  a  collection  of  miniatures  from  various  sources  and  some 
Ane  paintings  in  gouache  by  Isabey  and  Baur. 

The  Oouection  Thiers,  a  collection  of  works  of  art  bequeathed  to  the 
Sfnseum  bv  the  ex-president  of  the  Republic ,  occupies  the  two  following 
>rooms.    Of  the  1470  very  miscellaneous  objects  (catalogues^  l^^  -qi^'^qtW.i 
are  small,  and  few  are  of  much  importance.    In  the  f^tsl  tootel  \%  «.  \k^T- 
trait  of  Tlders,  bj  Bmmat. 

lUext  foUow  the  Jh-awings  of  the  Oermetn  School^  amOTx^aX.  v«\v\Oa.  iBi».^ 


144  2.  LOUVRE.  Modern  CoUection. 

be  noted  the  first  two,  by  E.  8.  (1466),  3  by  Schongauer,  24  by  *Dllrer,  7  by 
Holbeinj  and  5  by  S.  Baldung  Cfrien. 

Adjoining  is  the  Donation  Si*  de  la  Salle,  a  valuable  collection  of  up- 
wards of  300  drawings  by  old  masters.  This  gallery  leads  to  the  end  of 
the  following  collection. 

Adjoining  the  Collection  of  Drawings  Is  the  *Ck>Ileetion  of 
Smaller  MedlsBval,   Benaissance,   and  Modem  Objects  of  Art 

(Musee  des  objets  d'art  du  Moyen  Age^  de  la  RenaUaaneey  et  des 
Temps  Modemes),  which  may  also  be  reached  by  a  staircase  ascend- 
ing from  the  4th  room  of  the  Asiatic  Musenm  (p.  101). 

I.  Room  (8th  from  the  other  end).  Olcus  of  the  15- 18th  cent., 
chiefly  Venetian  and  German.  On  the  walls,  mosaics,  Including,  to 
the  left,  the  Lion  of  San  Marco,  by  Ant.  Fasolo  of  Mnrano  (16th  cent.). 
Ebony  Renaissance  cabinet.   Oaken  Gothic  door. 

II.  Room.  *Ivory  Carvings  of  the  6- 19th  cent.,  some  very 
valaable  (catalogue  by  Molinier,  1896;  5  fr.). 

In  four  cabinets :  Bacchanals  by  O.  van  Opstal ;  several  figures  of  the 
Madonna  and  Christ;  caskets  (one  of  the  9th  cent.);  diptychs;  triptychs, 
including  a  Byzantine  example  of  the  10th  or  11th  cent.,  and  (*No.  141)  a 
Florentine  specimen  of  the  15th  cent.,  believed  to  have  once  belonged  to 
Matthew  Corvinus;  book-bindings;  tablets;  chessmen  and  draughtsmen; 
mirror-cases;  combs;  fans.  Loving-cups  ('Vidrecomes"').  Powder-flasks. 
In  the  central  glass-case:  116.  Ivory  harp  (15th  cent.),  perhaps  once  in 
the  possession  of  Duchess  Y olande  of  Savoy ;  244.  Descent  firom  the  Cross 
(13th  cent.) ;  39,  52.  Saddle-bow  and  cantle  ^tal. ;  18th  cent.),  the  former 
with  figures  of  women  upon  horses  and  camels;  60.  'Coronation  of  the 
Virgin  (painted:  18th  cent.);  12.  Byzantine  triptych  (10th  cent.).  Between 
the  windows :  112.  AUar-piece  of  Poissy^  about  7  ft.  in  height,  executed 
at  the  end  of  the  14th  cent,  in  bom  and  mosaic:  in  the  centre  is  the 
history  of  Christ,  on  the  left  that  of  John  the  Baptist,  on  the  right  that 
of  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  in  71  different  reliefs ;  below  are  the  Apostles. 
By  the  first  window,  to  the  right:  Round  ivoiy  casket  from  Cordova, 
made  in  967  for  Almogueira,  son  of  Abd-er-Rahman  m.  —  Opposite  are 
a  Gothic  oaken  chest  and  a  ''Flemish  tapestry  (15th  cent.),  representing 
St.  Luke  painting  the  portrait  of  the  Virgin  (after  Boeier  van  der  Weyden). 
At  the  sides,  four  other  fine  Flemish  tapestries  (15-l6th  cent.). 

III.  Room.  Flemish  and  German  Earthenware  of  the  16-17th 
centuries.    Pottery  by  Palissy  and  in  his  style. 

lY.  Room.  French  Fayence,  inclnding  specimens  of  the  famous 
work  of  Bernard  Palissy  (d.  1589),  which  chiefly  consists  of  dishet 
adorned  with  snakes,  frogs,  lizards,  flsh,  and  plants  moulded  from 
nature.  The  finest  antique  French  pottery  is  known  as  'Faiences 
Henri  Deux'  or  'd'Oiron*  (specimens  in  the  centre  case) ;  it  was 
manufactured  in  the  16th  cent,  at  Oiron  in  Poiton. 

V.  Room.    French  Industrial  Art  of  the  18th  Century,    On  the 

walls  hang  Tapestries:  *Marriage  of  Roderigo  and  Angelica,  after 

<  -oypel  (in  admirable  preservation) ;  Toilet  and  Work  of  Sultanesses, 

after  Yan  Loo.   Pastels  and  Gouaches.    Magnificent  ^Cabinets  in  the 

style  of  Louis  XVI.,  by  Riesener,  Benemann^  Leoasseur,  and  others; 

large  terracotta  Sphinx,  with  a  woman's  head;  Child  and  bird-cage, 

an  alabaster  group  by  Pigallej  large  casket  with  nymphs,  by  Clo- 

di'on('^).  The  central  glass-case  coutaiiva  W^ft  specimens  of  CtUnete, 

Dresden,  and  Sevres  Porcelain,  some  m\\v  \>fcVJA\l\x\'\swK»  ^«c»!»r 


AdaUe  Antiquities.         2.  LOUYBE.  145 

tions  by  Thomire^   Gonthiere,  etc. ;   charming  terracottas  by  Clo- 
dion,  etc. 

YI-YIII.  Rooms.  Oriental  Bronzes^ysLseB,  and  utensils,  inclading 
a  Moorish  bovl,  known  as  the  Baptisthre  of  St,  Louis  (13th  cent.), 
used  at  the  christening  of  French  princes.  Oriental  and  Hispano- 
Mooriah  Fayenee,  The  formei  is  recognized  by  its  Oriental  designs, 
yellow  metallic  background,  and  blue  patterns ;  it  dates  from  the 
14th  and  15th  centuries.    Oriental  crystal  and  glass. 

Froni  Room  Vm  a  ataircase  ascendB  to  the  2nd  floor  (p.  149).  —  For 
the  Remtri$id«r  of  the  Renaissance  and  Modem  Objects  of  Art,  see  below. 

Leaving  Room  YIII  by  the  door  at  the  end  we  reach  the  top 
of  the  staircase  leading  to  the  Asiatic  Museum  (p.  101).  We  turn 
to  the  right  and  enter  the  rooms  of  the  East  Wing. 

Salles  de  la  Colonnade ,  three  rooms  containing  Asiatic  Anti- 
qnitieSy  from  Suiiana  and  Chaldaea. 

I-  Boom  (6th  of  this  collection ;  four  rooms  on  the  groundfloor,  5th  the 
staircase)  comp.  p.  101).  Small  antiquities.  Grseco-Baby Ionian  statuettes 
and  other  sculptures;  inscriptions;  cylinders,  engraved  gems,  and  seale 
of  great  delicacy.  Also,  in  the  second  case  to  the  right,  the  silver  vase  of 
StUemema^  with  engravings,  dating  from  before  the  90th  cent.  B.C.,  from  the 
excavations  of  Sarzee  atTello  (Ghaldeea).  In  the  second  case  to  the  left: 
Greeco-Parthian  gold  ornaments  and  silver  vases  from  Cyprus.  By  the 
•eeond  window  on  the  left:  fine  Assyrian  bronze  lion,  with  a  ring  in  its 
back.  In  the  adjoining  cabinets :  Glazed  tiles  from  Babylon ;  fragments  of 
bronzes ;  Ghaldsean  antiquities,  inscriptions,  and  votive  bronses ;  Ghaldeean 
cylinders  and  bas-reliefs. 

n.  Boox.  ist  Section :  in  the  middle,  plans  of  the  tumuli  in  Susiana 
and  OhaldKa  where  the  antiquities  were  found;  on  the  entrance-wall, 
magnificent  frieze  of  glazed  and  painted  terracotta,  40  ft.  long  and  13  ft. 
high,  representing  the  archers  of  the  immortal  guard^  of  Darius ;  to  the  left, 
st^r-raUing  from  the  palace  of  Artaxerzes  Mnemon,  also  in  terracotta; 
on  the  partition-wall,  the  crowning-ornaments  of  the  pylons  of  this  palace, 
with  lions  in  the  same  material;  on  the  right  side,  fragments  of  a  bath 
and  terracotta  vases.  —  2nd  Section :  At  the  back,  ^Capital  of  one  of  the 
36  colnmns  (each  68  ft.  high),  which  supported  the  roof  of  Artaxerxes^ 
throne-room;  in  the  cabinet  on  the  left,  fragments  of  the  frieze  of  archers, 
etc. ;  in  the  glass-cases,  glass,  small  terracottas,  cut  stones;  cylinders  from 
Susiana,  Ghaldsea,  and  Assyria;  rings;  medals,  including  a  fine  silver 
tetradrachma  of  Eucratides  (second  case  on  the  left). 

m.  Boox.  Continuation  of  the  above  collection.  Beproduction  of  the 
throne-room  of  Artaxerxes  Knemon  (404  B.  G.),  which  covered  an  area  of 
^^lOOO  square  yards.  By  the  second  window  is  a  Greeco-Phoenician  bust 
of  a  woman,  found  in  Spain  in  1897. 

IV.  Room  or  Salle  du  D6me.  Continuation  of  the  Renaissance 
and  Modem  Objects  of  Art  (comp.  above).  To  tbe  left,  *Armour 
of  Henri  II.  of  France.  Ist  Case :  caskets,  bronzes  from  churches, 
^nd  statuettes.  On  the  walls  and  in  the  other  cases  are  Renaissance 
t^peBtriea  and  furniture  and  small  bronzes,  notably,  Giovanni  da 
bologna,  Nessus  and  Dejanira,  Geometry,  Venus;  Sperandio^ 
Equestrian  statuette  of  G.  J.  Gonzaga;  Barye^  Equestrian  statuettes 
(4th  case).  Then,  interesting  armour  and  weapons.  —  Cases  at  the 
windows :  clocks  of  the  IB-lTth  cent. ;  French  and  GeTm?AiT£i^^"?\^\ 
cutting  weapons  of  the  15-1 6th  cent,  and  a  buntrng-YvoxYv  ot^x^tv- 
cis  I.  By  Ae  Hist  window,  JtaJian  medals.  A  smaW  caXimeV.  ^qt^- 
Baxdmmmm,  PMrig.  idtb  Edit.  \j^ 


146  2.  LOUVRE.  Effyptian 

tains  bronzes:  P.  Vischer,  Portrait  of  himself ;  RicciOj  Alien,  St.  Se- 
bastian; School  of  Donatello,  John  the  Baptist.  —  In  the  glass- 
cases  in  the  centre :  reliefs  in  metal ;  paxes ;  locks,  keys,  etc. ; 
cutlery,  spoons,  etc. ;  medallions  in  coloured  wax. 

V.  Room.  Italian  Majolica  or  Fayence.  The  finest  specimens, 
dating  from  the  16th  cent.,  were  made  at  Deruta,  Faenza,  Forll, 
Venice,  Gubbio,  Pesaro,  Urbino,  and  Castel  Durante.  In  the  centre 
is  a  fine  Renaissance  chest. 

VI.  Room.  Portrait  of  Henri  II. ;  silk  tapestry  of  the  16th  cent. ; 
fine  wood-carving  from  the  Salle  des  Sept  Chemin^es.  This  spe- 
cimen and  that  in  the  next  room  are  the  only  carvings  of  the  royal 
apartments  now  extant.  —  Glass-cases  at  the  windows :  medallions 
and  other  carvings  in  box-wood,  very  delicately  executed}  carvings 
in  other  substances,  including  a  relief  in  lithographic  stone  by 
Aldegrever,  representing  the  Duke  of  Bavaria  and  Agnes  Bemauer 
of  Augsburg.  On  the  walls  are  inlaid  panels.  In  the  centre  of  the 
room  is  an  alabaster  bust  of  Otto  Heinrich  I.,  Ck)unt-Palatine  of  the 
Rhine,  and  a  handsome  marriage-chest.  The  case  at  the  end,  to 
the  left,  contains  a  fine  collection  of  statuettes  in  wood,  etc.  In 
that  to  the  right  are  caskets.  In  the  centre  of  the  wall,  Charles  V^ 
in  high-relief  (German ;  16th  cent.).  The  benches  should  also  be 
noticed. 

VII.  Room,  with  alcove,  in  which  Henri  IV.  breathed  his  last. 
The  Venetian  state-bed  (16th  cent.)  did  not  originally  belong  to 
this  room.  The  wood-carving  is  from  the  rooms  of  Henri  II.  in  the 
Louvre,  and  was  restored  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.  Fine  chests 
and  two  Renaissance  choir-stalls. 

VIII.  Room.  Portraits  of  Louis  XIII.  and  his  queen  Anne  of 
Austria,  by  Phil,  de  Champaigne(y)]  three  large  vases  of  Sftvres 
porcelain  j  silver  statue  of  Peace,  by  ChaudeU 

On  leaving  Room  VII  we  find  ourselves  at  the  top  of  the  staii- 
case  of  the  Mus^e  Egyptien,  which  is  continued  on  the  landing  and 
in  the  rooms  to  the  right  (comp.  PI.  of  first  floor,  p.  89). 

Egyptian  Haseiun  (continued).  —  The  rooms  to  the  right  con* 
tain  the  smaller  Egyptian  antiquities. 

I.  Salle  Histokique  ,  with  a  ceiling-painting  by  QroB,  repre- 
senting the  Genius  of  France  encouraging  the  arts  and  protecting 
mankind  (1827-31). 

The  objects  here  are  mainly  of  historical  value.  On  a  pedestal  aor- 
rounded  by  an  octagonal  glass-case,  Statuette  of  Psammetichua  II.,  in 
green  basalt.  In  front,  bronze  statuette  of  a  man;  behind,  bronxe  *Stataeti6 
of  Queen  Karomama  (22nd  Dyn.),  richly  damascened  (restored).  —  Olass- 
case:  sepulchral  statuettes,  scarabsei;  golden  *0rnament8  coated  with  col- 
uured  vitreous  paste,  golden  mask  of  a  mummy,  gold  chains,  etc.  —  Case 
to  the  left  of  the  chimney-piece:  *Group  in  gold  of  Osiris^  Isis,  and 
Horua  (22nd  Dyn.). 

//.   Sallb  Civile,  with  a  ceiling-painting  by  H.  VemtA:  Bra- 
mante,  H&pb&el,  and  Michael  Aaigelo'^ieloift^^^fel^^lL  (1827). 


J 


Museum,  2.  LOUVEE.  147 

In  the  centre,  **Statu€Ue  of  an  Egyptian  Scribe,  painted  red,  with  eyes 
inserted  (5th  or  6th  Dyn.))  probably  the  best  example  of  ancient  Egyptian 
sculpture.  To  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance,  two  fine  heads  of  the 
best  (Sai'tic)  period.  —  Cabinets  and  glass-cases  to  the  left,  beginning  at  the 
entrance :  statuettes ;  models  of  buildings  and  boats  \  stools ;  vases  ^  glass ; 
basket-work,  toilet-articles ;  fruit,  grains,  implements  and  scenes  of  hus- 
bandry; emblems  and  miscellaneous  utensils^  weapons,  musical  instra- 
ments;  flnely-woven  *Garments;  statuettes^  box  of  games. 

III.  Sallb  Fun^aibb,  with  an  allegorical  ceiling-painting  by 
Ahd  de  Pujol^  Joseph  as  the  savloui  of  Egypt  (18271. 

The  contents  of  this  room  afford  an  admirable  insight  into  the  worship 
of  the  dead,  which,  like  the  whole  religious  system  of  the  ancient  Kt^yp- 
tians,  was  closely  connected  with  their  doctrine  of  the  immortality  of  the 
flOuL    It  was  owing  to  their  peculiar  form  of  belief  that  they  used  every 
endeavour  to  preserve  the  bodies  of  the  dead  by  embalming  and  other- 
wise, and  constructed  the  spacious  and  magnificent  tombs  with  which 
Egyptian  travellers  are  familiar.    Our  information  regarding  the  Egyptian 
notions   of  the  sours  condition  after  death  is   chiefiy  derived  from  the 
^Book  of  the  Dead*  and  the  ^Book  of  the  Future  Life\  which  contain 
hymns,  prayers,  and  instructions  for  the  use  of  the  deceased.    The  papyri 
hong  on  the  walls  contain  a  number  of  these  passages,  sometimes  illustrated 
by  paintings  in  wonderfully  good  preservation.    The  finest  is  in  Room  V. 
—  Above  the  fire-place  hangs  a  large  picture,  Of  the  Grseco-Iloman  period, 
representing  a  departed  soul,  supported  on  the  left  by  Osiris  and  received 
by  Ajanbis.    In  the  centre,  Hummy-cases,  covered  with  paintings,   ist  Glass- 
ciM:  objects  in  bone  and  ivory,  toilet-articles  in  carved  wood,  fayence, 
enamels,  glass,  seals,  ornaments.    Statuette  in  bronze  of  the  hawk-headed 
Horos,  offering  a  libation  to  his  father  Osiris.    2nd  Glass-case:  symbols, 
'lOKoIfits,  and  searabaei.  —  Other  Cabinets  and  Glass-cases  (from  left  to 
i^t):  sepulchral  figures  and  cases;  paintings  (near  the  3rd  window),  masks, 
KKatMei,  mummies  and  mummy  cases  (cabinet  between  the  windows), 
implements  used  by  gilders  and  scribes,  *hypocephali*,  or  talismans  placed 
luider  the  heads  of  mummies,  etc. 

rV.  SaIiLB  des  Dieux  ,  with  a  ceiling-painting  by  Picot,  repre- 
Benting  Stndy  and  Genius  revealing  Egypt  to  Greece.  This  room 
^  devoted  to  objects  illustrating  Egyptian  mythology :  statuettes 
uid  attributes  of  the  gods  (mostly  in  bronze),  etc. 

In  the  centre :  ^Wooden  statuette  of  Toui,  a  priestess  of  Hin,  the  god 
ojf  CoptoB  (20th  Dyn.,  i.e.  ca.  12th  cent.  B.C.),  acquired  in  1894  for  10,000  fr. 
^0  adjoining  'Glass-case  contains  a  magnificent  collection  of  jewels,  gold 
ornaments,  statuettes  in  gold  and  enamel,  other  cloisonnd  enamels,  seals, 
engraved  cornelianS)  enamelled  vases,  etc.  The  contents  of  this  giass-case 
^8  calculated  to  be  worth-  about  1,000,000  fr.  j  the  golden  group  of  Osiris, 
J^,  and  Horus  (22nd  dyn.),  on  thh  window-side,  alone  cost  25,000  fr. 
1"^,  a  bronze  statuette  of  Hesu.  Above  the  fire-place.  Hobs  (?),  Sekhmet, 
-AQUnon,  Osiris,  and  Isis  nursing  Horus.  In  the  other  cases,  numerous 
'^tnettes  of  deities  in  bronze  (a  good  selection  in  Case  K). 

V.  Sallb  bbs  Golonnes  ,  adorned  with  an  allegorical  ceiling- 
p&inting  by  Qros  (in  the  centre,  True  Glory  leaning  upon  Virtue; 
to  the  left,  Mars  crowned  by  Victory  and  restrained  by  Moderation ; 
to  the  right,  Time  placing  Truth  under  the  protection  of  Wisdom). 
This  room  contains  various  objects  for  which  a  place  could  not  be 
found  in  the  preceding  rooms. 

Wooden  mummy-cases,  covered  with  paintings.    In  the  ^\«a&>c^9>^^  tv^^wt 

the  entrance  are  mirrors,  bronze  weapons,  and  brouiie  \Lxivv«a.   ^o^^^^ 

itatoette  of  the  mncient  empire  (iboMt  3000  B.C.)  and  a  c^aiT  ViAaTv^  >w\\>tv 

ivoij.    Xa  the  cabinets  are  deities f  bronze  implcmenta,  paLV^x^.^  tVc.  —  ^"3 


148  2.  LOUVRE.  Antique  Pottery. 

the  window  ia  the  so-called  *Bo7al  Papyras,  a  splendid  and  well-preserved 
specimen  of  the  hieroglyphic  *Book  of  the  Dead%  about  25  ft.  long,  and 
not  less  than  3000  years  old.  —  In  the  middle  and  by  the  windows,  tliree 
cases  containing  recent  acquisitions. 

Collection  of  Antique  Pottery  (MusSe  de  la  Ciramique  Antique), 
—  This  collection,  the  nucleus  of  which  was  the  Campana  Collection^ 
purchased  from  the  papal  government  in  1861,  is  one  of  the  most 
complete  of  its  kind  and  affords  an  admirable  survey  of  the  develop- 
ment of  vase-painting  among  the  ancients.  —  Arranged  chronologic- 
ally, the  earliest  specimens  are  in  the  room  entered  from  the  Salle 
des  Sept  Chemin^es  through  the  door  to  the  right  (comp.  Plan,  p.  89). 
The  ceiling-paintings  date  from  the  middle  of  the  19th  cent.,  when 
the  paintings  of  the  French  School  were  still  exhibited  here. 

I.  Koou  or  Sallb  A.  Ceiling -painting  by  Alaux:  Poussin  being  pn- 
sented  to  Louis  XIII.  by  Cardinal  Richelieu ;  to  the  left  Truth,  to  the  xifM 
Philosophy.  —  Earliest  representations  of  figures  in  terracotta  and  limeshme. 
In  the  glass-cases  in  the  centre :  Golden  ornaments,  terracottas,  vases,  aal 
cuneiform  inscriptions.  In  the  other  cases  j  on  the  left  wall,  Chaldvu 
statuettes,  below,  Phtsnician  statuettes,  above;  numerous  Grepco-Baby- 
lonian  statuettes  of  Venus.  By  this  wall  and  the  rear- wall,  s^es  <rf 
warriors'  heads,  from  Cyprus,  in  the  PhcBnician-Greek  style,  interestiac 
from  their  resemblance  to  archaic  Greek  types.  Bight  wall.  Egyptltf 
terracottas,  from  the  period  of  Greek  influence  in  Alexandria.  Terraoottai 
from  Bhodes,  with  primitive  ornamentation.  By  the  central  window,  QoU 
ornaments  from  Bhodes. 

II.  BooM(B).  Ceiling-paintingbyi8/«<6e»;BattieofIvry,  with  Henri  !▼. 
as  a  magnanimous  victor.  Greek  Terracottas  from  Athens,  Magna  Giccili 
and  the  necropolis  of  Myrina,  near  Smyrna,  some  of  great  arUstic  woxft. 
Left  wall :  Figurines  of  Greek  women,  some  with  hats,  some  seated,  mMttr 
elegant  and  graceful  in  bearing.  Among  the  bas-relieu  are  several  vlnta^^ 
scenes  and  a  *Bacchic  dance.  —  Bear  wall:  Cinerary  urns  with  palBtei 
reliefs.  In  the  centre  of  the  exit -wall,  Two  warriors  arming,  with  » 
mother  and  child  between  them.  

III.  Boom  (G).  Ceiling-painting  by  Eug.  DevMa:  Louia  XTV.  infpedbf 
Puget's  marble  group  of  the  Milo  of  Croton  (p.  106).  —  Etrusetm  Fotttn 
of  the  earliest  type,  black,  with  engraved  designs ;  earliest  attempts  at  relleb 
(found  in  tombs). 

IV.  Boom  (D).  Ceiling-painting  by  Fragonard:  Franda  I.  zeceiviiig  pic- 
tures and  statues  brought  by  Primaticcio  firom  Italy.  —  Etruscem  Terraeottm> 
In  the  centre :  *Sarcophagus  from  Cerveteri,  on  which  are  two  painted  lifo- 
size  figures  of  a  man  and  woman  on  a  couch,  clumsy  in  ezeoatton,  bat 
not  without  a  certain  nuve  humour.  —  Left  wall :  In  front,  Athena  and  He^ 
cules  (painted  relief)  j  ^funeral  couches'  and  funeral  banqueta.  -'  Bear-wall: 
Vases  with  painted  figures  and  geometrical  ornamentation.  —  Sxlt-waU: 
Fragment  of  a  mural  painting,  representing  the  gods,  etc.,  in  the  molt 
artless  fashion. 

In  the  adjoining  passages  are  antefixop,  heads,  and  vases. 

V.  Boom  (E).  Ceiling-painting  by  Heitn:  The  BenaiSMusoe  In  France.  — 
Vatei  in  the  Corinthian  Sti/le^  found  in  Greek  islands  and  in  Italy.  By  tbe 
central  door.  Vase  with  the  mourning  for  Achilles.  The  sixth  vase  wrther 
on  represents  Hercules  and  Cerberus.  —  To  the  right  of  the  exit,  Perseos 
slaying  the  Gorgon. 

To  the  left  opens  the  Salle  des  Colonnes  (p.  147)  through  which  we  may 
reach  the  rooms  overlooking  the  court,  which  contain  another  poition  w 
the  collection  (see  below). 

Another  ehori  passage ,  with  archaic  Greek  vaaea ,  leads  Ib  a  ttiaight 
direction  from  Boom  £  to  the  — 

VI.  Room  (F).    Ceiling-painting  \>7  Frogoaord:  'SnaMla  L  IraigMed  by 
Bayard.  —  Greek  Faeet  teith  Black  Figure,    1\ift«kuw\  VK^Vn^tewateaofthe 


Naval  Museum,  2.  LOUVRE.  149 

room,  some  of  them  bearing  the  name  of  Nicottfienes.  Vases  with  white 
background ;  below,  black  vase  with  white  figures.  Host  of  the  scenes  are 
bom  the  myths  relating  to  Hercules  and  Theseus. 

VU.  Boom  (G).  Ceiling>painting  by  Schnetz:  Charlemagne  and  Alcuin, 
the  founder  of  the  university  of  Paris.  —  Greek  Votes  with  Red  Figures,  many 
of  which  bear  the  name  of  the  maker  and  most  of  which  are  noteworthy. 
To  the  left,  *Theseu8,  Amphitrite,  and  Athena,  by  JEup7iro(nios).  Third 
vase  in  the  lower  row:  •Sphinx,  with  meditating  Greeks.  Bacchic  scenes. 
In  tiie  middle  of  the  rear-wall,  small  vase,  with  three  Greek  ladies. 

VIII.  Boom  (H).  *  Ceiling-painting  by  Drolling:  Louis  XII.  hailed  as 
&€her  of  the  people  by  the  Estates  at  Tours.  —  Oraeco-Italie  Vcues.  By  the 
walls,  Arezzo  ware,  of  purely  archeeological  interest,  and  a  few  Greek 
vases  of  the  decadence.  In  the  centre  are  Bhyta  or  goblets  in  the  form 
of  horns,  with  heads  and  other  ornaments. 

IX.  Boom.  Ceiling  painting  by  Jy^on  C^ynie^*  Bonaparte  in  Egypt.  Mural 
Fainiings  from  Eereukmeum  and  Pompeii.  To  the  left,  on  a  gold  ground, 
Apollo  and  the  Muses.  Below,  decorative  painting  with  a  large  cameo.  — 
To  the  left  of  the  exit,  Woman  with  dark-coloured  vase.  To  the  right,  ou 
the  same  wall,  *Family  of  twelve,  with  names  in  Greek  characters.  — 
Bear-wall:  Ladies  playing  with  a  goat.  River  god  between  two  nymphs.  — 
Ib  the  glass-cases  in  the  centre  and  by  the  windows:  rich  collection  of 
Ancient  QlasSy  some  of  inimitable  technique. 

The  exit-door  leads  to  the  rooms  containing  the  small  Egyptian  an- 
ftiquities  (p.  14^,  whence  we  reach  the  nearest  staircase  to  the  second  floor 
by  Te-traversing  the  rooms  to  the  left  (p.  146). 

To  conclude  our  inspection  of  the  collection  of  pottery,  we  retrace  our 
Steps  to  Salle  E,  whence  we  pass  through  the  8alle  des  Colonnes  (p.  147), 
to  the  left,  to  the  adjoining  rooms  on  the  side  next  the  court. 

Booh  M.  Ceiling-painting  by  Ficot:  Cybele  saving  Pompeii  and  Hercu- 
^frm"^  firom  total  destruction.  —  Pottery  with  black  and  violet  painting, 
indttding  Panathenseic  amphorse.  In  the  central  case:  Terracottas  from 
Tarsus  in  Cilicia.  Entrance-wall:  to  the  right.  Vase  with  Crcesus  on  the 
ftmei^-pyre.    Exit-wall:  to  the  right.  Birth  of  Athena. 

Boom  L.  Ceiling-painting  by  Meynier:  The  Nymphs  of  Parthenope  (Naples) 
arriving  at  the  Seine.  Wall  Cabinets :  Greek  terracottas  from  Tanagra  iu 
Boeotia:  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  *Dancing  Cupids,  ^Figures  of  wuni en, 
with  blond  hair.  On  each  side  of  the  chimney-piece,  Athenian  lecythi  or 
oil-vases.  The  central  octagonal  glass-case  contains  terracottas  from  thu 
Kecropolis  at  Athens  and  from  Libya  (the  Roman  province  of  Cyreiiaica)  j 
•Amphora  with  the  contest  of  the  gods  and  the  giants. 

Boom  E.  Ceiling-painting  by  Heim:  Jupiter  delivering  to  Vulcan  the 
fire  for  the  destrucnon  of  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii.  Vases,  some  of 
large  siae. 

Sallb  ds  Clabao.  Ceiling-painting  after  Ingres :  Apotheosis  of  Homer 
(origbxaly  see  p.  133).  Small  Greek  sculptures  and  fragments  of  others. 
By  the  left  window,  draped  figure  of  a  girl.  In  the  central  cases :  Antique 
ivory  carvings  ^  Greek  terracottas  and  wood-carvings,  etc. 

The  door  of  exit  leads  into  the  Salle  des  Sept-CheminSes  (p.  140). 

G.    SECOND  FLOOR. 

The  second  floor  of  the  Louvre,  which  contains  the  Marine  and  the 
Ethnographical  Museums  and  a  collection  of  drawings,  is  open  to  the 
public  after  11  a.m.  (comp.  p.  56).  There  are  three  staircases  ascending 
to  the  second  floor:  —  (1)  From  the  8th  room  of  the  collection  of  smaller 
Hediseval,  Benaissance,  and  Modern  objects  (p.  146),  which  is  reached 
from  the  ponndfloor  by  a  staircase  near  the  Asiatic  Museum^  C^^^  FicOkXEi. 
the  opposite  end  (p.  143),  leading  to  the  Galerie  dea  P\to^^%  V:^.  ^^^^  ^^^ 
(3).  In  the  Pavilion  de  THorJoge  or  Pavilion  Sully  (,aeft  ^.  V^a.^^  \i^%.\^«i  "Cv^^ 
Salle  des  Bronzes, 


150  2.  LOUVRE.     Ethnograph.  Mweum. 

The  ^MuB^e  de  Marine  is  a  very  valuable  collection  of  objects 
and  models  connected  with  ship-bnilding  and  navigation.  Most  of 
the  exhibits  have  full  descriptive  labels. 

KooM  1.  Models  illustrating  the  French  navy  from  1789  to  1824.  — 
Room  11.  Models  of  sailing-vessels  of  the  18-19th  cent.  {  screw-yacht  of 
1885.  Behind  is  the  model  of  a  frigate  being  repaired  at  Tahiti;  to  the 
right,  model  of  the  Oc^n',  a  man-of-war  of  the  18th  cent.^  the  *Rivoir 
leaving  the  harbour  of  Venice  with  the  aid  of  ^chameanx*  or  rafts  to  aid 
it  over  shallows.  —  We  now  enter,  to  the  left  of  the  staircase,  — 

Boom  Xlll.  Model  representing  the  taking  down  and  embarkation  of 
the  obelisk  of  Luxor  (p.  83);  Erection  of  the  obelisk  in  the  I'lace  de  la 
Concorde.  Marine  steam-engines.  —  Boom  XII.  Models  of  sailing-ships. 
Bu9t3  of  the  famous  seamen  Oucou^dic,  TourvilW,  Jean  Bart,  and  Forbin. 
Two  marine  paintings  by  Oudin.  —  Boom  XI.  Models  of  steam-packets. 
Model  of  the  'Fram''  and  of  various  objects  from  Hansen "s  polar  expedition 
(lt*9J-96).  In  the  narrow  Corridor  behind  Booms  XIII- XI  (Galerie  des 
Xavires  Marchandes)  are  models  of  merchant  vessels.  —  Room  X.  Fire- 
arms of  various  calibres.  —  Boom  IX.  Weapons.  Three  marine  paintings 
by  Jos.  Vemet.  —  Room  VIII.  Pyramid  composed  of  relics  of  the  frigates 
'Boussole'  and  'Astrolabe',  which  had  been  sent  on  a  voyage  of  discovery 
under  Captain  de  Lapirouse  in  1783,  and  foundered  at  sea.  Bust  of  Lap^ronse. 
Model  of  a  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Lap^rouse  at  Port  Jackson, 
with  English  and  French  inscriptions.  Beacons ;  buoys;  ViHiitehead  tori»edo. 
Relief-plans  of  the  islands  of  Vanicoro  orLap^rouse  and  Tahiti.  Fourteen 
marine  paintings  by  Joh.  Vemet.  —  Salle  des  Goirassks  (at  the  end  of 
R.  VIII).  Models  ot  iron-clads,  turret-ships,  and  torpedo-boats;  submarine 
boat;  planetarium  moved  by  clock-work.  Marine  paintings  —  Room  VIL 
Models  of  antique  vessels  and  of  transports.  Planetarium.  —  Boom  vL 
Machine  for  adjusting  the  masts  of  a  ship.  Representation  of  the  interior 
of  the  turret-ship  'Marengo'  (1867).  Relief-plan  of  the  island  of  TahitL 
Parts  of  a  ship;  cables;  rigging.  —  Room  V.  Models  of  pumps  and 
machinery;  telegraphs,  lighthouses.  ->  Room  IY.  Large  geographical 
globe  in  MS.  Navigating  instruments.  Models  of  xebecs  or  galleys  refitted 
for  sailing.  —  Room  III.  To  the  right,  small  vessel  in  ivory.  Models  of 
galleys  and  ships  of  war  of  the  17th  century.  The  original  carving  in 
gilded  wood  by  Pugety  on  the  wall,  decorated  the  second  of  these  gaUeys. 

The  Ethnographical  HuBeam  (Mu86e  EthnographiqueJ  begins 
with  the  two  rooms  immediately  following  the  Mus^e  de  Marine,  and 
also  occupies  the  large  saloon  at  the  end.  In  the  former  are  models 
of  dwellings  of  savages,  scenes  of  savage  life,  portraits  of  American 
Indians,  war-suits,  and  implements  of  various  kinds.  The  large  sa- 
loon is  devoted  almost  exclusively  to  curiosities  brought  home  by 
French  navigators  and  the  spoil  captured  in  the  course  of  military 
expeditions  in  India,  China,  and  Japan.  Much  better  collections  of 
the  same  kind  may  be  seen  at  the  Mus§e  Gnimet  (p.  167)  and  the 
Trocad(fro  (p.  170). 

The  CoKRiuoR  behind  Rooms  I-VI,  the  Oalerie  des  Pirogvet^  contains 
small  models  of  Arab.  Indian,  Chinese,  Australasian,  and  Polynesian  ships 
and  boats,  dwellings,  etc. 

The  Chinese  Musenm  (to  the  left  on  leaving  the  Marine  Mu- 
seum), which  may  be  regarded  as  a  continuation  of  the  Ethnographical 
collection,  is  also  of  secondary  importance,  being  surpassed  in  interest 
by  the  collections  at  the  Mus^e  Guimet  (p.  167),  while  its  poreelain 
is  far  inferior  to  that  of  the  Collection  Grandidier  (p.  151). 

fjeaving  the  last  room,  "we  enter  \  eo-m^oi,  "sthieh  it  adjoined 


MUSEit  m  mmm. 


Rue      de        Rivoli 


•«-''r:?rTr?T"'3?i5=o^aW^Ai,.  f:,  ^.-  ^ 


C    0  U  R 
D  r        L  O   IT  V  H  E 


A.C.  AeUf  eseahtTv. 


SKCOin)  ETAOE. 


CheOeographie.  %  LOUVBE.  151 

by  the  Salle  des  fioltei  on  the  right.  This  saloon  and  the  corridor 
contain  the  most  valuahle  dra^ngs  by  Raphael  (18 ;  and  an  an- 
tograph),  Michael  Angelo  (6),  Leonardo  da  Vinei,  Titiarij  Poussin 
(18),  vaA  Holbein,  preserved  in  wooden  cases  (whence  the  room 
derives  its  name).  The  direct  approach  to  this  collection  is  by  the 
staircase  called  the  Escalier  Henri  II.  in  the  Pavilion  de  THorloge 
(p.  U2). 

Two  other  collections  have  been  arranged  in  a  kind  of  lecond  entresol 
on  the  side  next  the  Seine,  viz.  the  ChcdcographU  and  the  CoUeetion  Qrandi- 
dier.  The  principal  entrance  to  these  is  by  the  Porte  Jean-  Goujony  opposite 
the  Pavilion  Denon,  but  there  is  another  in  that  Pavilion  vift  the  Salle  des 
Mouioffei  (see  the  ground-plan). 

The  Ohaloographie  was  founded  by  Louis  Xrv.  in  1660,  on  the  model 
of  the  CcUeogrenfia  at  Borne.  Engravings  of  most  of  the  great  Parisian  and 
foreign  works  of  art,  in  the  provinces  of  painting,  sculpture,  and  archi- 
tecture are  exhibited  and  sold  here  (cheaper  than  at  the  retail-shops).  It 
occupies  the  gallery  on  the  quay,  to  the  right  as  we  enter.  It  is  open 
daily,  except  Sun.  and  holidays,  from  11  to  4  or  0,  and  contains  three 
BxMMH&n  Rooms  and  a  Sale  Room  in  which  are  albums  and  detailed  cata- 
logues of  over  6000  plates.    Farther  on  are  the  workshops  and  stores. 

The  OoUeotion  Ghrandidier  is  a  rich  collection  of  Chinese  and  Japanese 
porcelain  presented  to  the  Louvre  by  H.  Grandidier.  It  is  open  daily, 
except  Hon.,  from  1  to  4  or  6.  The  collection  occupies  ten  rooms  opposite 
the  Chalcographie,  of  which  the  first  seven  are  devoted  to  Chinese  porcelain, 
embracing  80UD  specimens,  all  remarkable  for  their  decoration  thoagh  many 
are  small.  The  three  following  rooms  are  occupied  by  Japanese  porcelain 
(BUG  specimens),  and  other  Japanese  objects,  including  a  collection  of 
engravings  of  the  18th  and  19th  cent.,  in  frames  and  on  two  radiating 
■tands,  statuettes,  bronze  vases  and  sword-hilts,  combs,  caskets,  lacquered 
ecreena,  etc. 

UI.    THE  TTJILEBIES. 
Arc  de  Triomphe  dn  Oarrousel.    Jardin  des  Tuileries. 

The  Palais  des  Tuileries,  properly  speaking,  was  burned  by  the 
Gommnnards  in  1871  and  exists  no  longer.  Its  only  remains  arc  the 
wings,  which  connected  it  with  the  Louvre.  That  on  the  side  next 
the  river,  containing  the  Pavilion  de  Flore,  was  restored  in  1863-68 
and  again  after  the  Are  of  1871,  in  which  it  sustained  little  damage. 
It  is  at  present  partly  occupied  by  the  Colonial  Office,  The  right 
wing,  in  the  Rue  de  Rivoll,  with  the  Pavilion  de  Marsan,  was  en- 
tirely burned  down  in  1871  and  was  rebuilt  in  1875-78 ;  but  the 
interior  is  still  unfinished  and  unoccupied. 

The  Palais  des  Tuileries  (comp.  the  Plan,  p.  88),  founded  by  Catherine 
de  M^dlcif ,  widow  of  Henri  II.,  was  begun  in  1564,  beyond  the  city-walls 
of  that  period.  It  derived  its  name  from  the  tile-kilns  (tuileries)  that  orig- 
inally occupied  its  site.  The  first  architect  was  Philibert  Delorme,  who 
waa  succeeded  by  J^m  BuUant.  The  original  plan  was  afterwards  much 
modified  and  the  above-mentioned  pavilions  were  incorporated  with  it. 

The  palace  presented  no  great  architectural  interest,  but  was  rich  in 
historical  associations,  especially  those  connected  with  the  overthrow  of 
the  French  monarchy  in  1791-92.  Before  the  Revolution  the  palace  was 
only  occasionally  occupied  by  the  French  sovereigns  -,  but  it  was  the  habi- 
tual residence  of  Napoleon  I.,  Louis  XVIII.,  Charles  I.,  Louis  Philip^ft^  w\A. 
Napoleon  UL  On  5th.  Oct.,  1789,  Louis  X  VI.  waa  btoxx^UX  \>n  Wife  Vvwsv^^ 
de  la  Halle'  from  VersaJUes  to  the  Tuileries,  and  iii  3\xTvft,  Vl^V^  \v^  ^"*» 
again  forcJbij  iBsMled  here  after  the  arrest  ot  Ma  ii\\s,\iX  ^Wt««is.-u»%. 


152  2.  PALAIS  DES  TUILERffiS. 

On  20th  July,  1792,  the  anniversary  of  the  meeting  in  the  Jen  de  Paume 
(p.  325),  the  palace  of  the  Tuileries  was  attacked  by  a  mob  of  about 
thirty  thousand  rioters  armed  with  pikes,  bat  on  that  occasion  they  con- 
tented themselves  with  threatening  and  insulting  the  king.  On  10th 
August  the  storm  at  length  burst  forth  in  all  its  fury.  At  midnight  alarm* 
bells  began  to  ring  in  the  suburbs.  Thousands  of  armed  men  marched 
to  the  palace.  The  fidelity  of  the  national  guard  posted  in  the  palace- 
yard  and  garden  began  to  waver,  and  they  were  deprived  of  their  com- 
manding officer  by  stratagem.  They  might,  however,  in  coiyunctioni  with 
the  Swiss  guard  of  1900  men  commanded  by  Colonel  Pfyffer,  have  suc- 
cessfully defended  the  palace,  had  not  the  king,  yielding  to  solicitations 
which  were  in  some  cases  treacherous,  quitted  the  palace  with  his  family. 
Passing  through  the  garden  of  the  Tuileries,  he  repaired  to  the  Manigcy 
or  riding-school  (see  p.  84),  where  the  legislative  assembly  held  its  meetings. 
The  national  guard  then  dispersed,  but  the  Swiss  guard  and  about 
120  noblemen  who  were  faithful  to  the  king  occupied  the  palace  and 
refused  to  surrender  it.  As  the  mob  pressed  forward  more  vehemently, 
the  colonel  commanded  his  men  to  fire,  and  the  palace-yard  and  Place 
du  Carrousel  were  speedily  cleared.  The  Swiss  guard  now  believed  that 
victory  was  assured,  but  the  king  sent  orders  to  them  to  discontinue 
firing  and  to  surrender  the  palace.  Finding  that  the  guard  ceased  to 
fire,  the  assailants  renewed  their  attack  and  reopened  their  fire  with 
redoubled  vigour.  Within  a  few  seconds  they  inundated  the  palace, 
killed  every  man  they  encountered,  wrecked  the  furniture  and  fittings, 
and  stole  or  carried  to  the  Hotel  de  YiUe  numerous  objects  of  value. 
The  retreating  Swiss  guard  were  almost  all  shot  down  in  the  garden, 
and  the  rest  by  order  of  liOuis  gave  up  their  arms  to  the  national  guard 
in  the  hall  of  the  national  assembly.  The  Revolution  was  victorious. 
Of  the  hitherto  existing  state-structure  not  one  stone  was  left  on  another. 
Royalty  lay  prostrate  in  the  dust,  and  the  legislative  assembly  continued 
to  exist  merely  in  name.  —  The  king  and  his  family  spent  the  night  in 
a  small  room  in  the  Manage,  and  on  13th  Aug.  he  was  conveyed  as  a 
prisoner  to  the  Temple  Tower  (p.  210),  whence  he  was  only  released  to 
be  led  to  the  scaffold  on  Jan.  2ist,  1793. 

From  10th  May,  1793,  to  4th  Nov.,  1796,  the  Convention,  and  afterwards 
the  Council  of  Eldert  down  to  1799,  held  their  meetings  in  the  K.  wing. 
On  Feb.  1st,  1800,  Napoleon,  as  ^First  Consul",  took  up  his  quarters  here, 
and  the  palace  also  became  the  official  residence  of  the  Restoration  and 
July  monarchies.  On  24th  Feb.,  1848,  Louis  Philippe  abandoned  the  pal- 
ace to  the  mob  without  resistance.  Napoleon  III.  resided  here  from 
1862  to  23rd  July.  1870,  when  he  quitted  Paris  to  take  the  command  of 
the  army  of  the  Rhine.  The  history  of  the  Tuileries  as  a  royal  residence 
closes  with  the  departure  of  the  Empress  Eugdnie  after  the  battle  of  Sedan. 


all  the  principal  public  buildings  on  fire.  The  orders  which  they  issued 
for  this  purpose,  signed  by  Delescluze,  Dombrowski,  Eudes,  and  other 
ringleaders,  professed  to  emanate  from  the  '^Comiti  du  Salut  Public  P 
Several  of  these  documents  still  extant  show  the  fearfullv  comprehensive 
and  systematic  character  of  this  diabolical  scheme,  which  also  embraced 
numerous  private  dwellings,  as  being  'maisons  suspectes\  A  beginning 
was  made  with  the  Tuileries,  which  was  prepared  for  destruction  by 
placing  combustibles  steeped  in  petroleum  and  barrels  of  gunpowder  in 
the  various  rooms.  It  was  set  on  fire  at  a  number  of  different  places  on 
22nd  and  23rd  May,  after  the  Versailles  troops  had  forced  an  entrance 
into  the  city,  but  before  they  had  gained  possession  of  the  palace.  The 
conflagration  soon  assumed  the  most  terrible  dimensions,  and  all  attempts 
to  extinguish  it  were  fruitless.  The  whole  of  the  W.  side  of  the  palace 
was  speedily  reduced  to  a  gigantic  heap  of  smouldering  rains. 

The  open  space  between  tlie  Louniq  t^ikd  the  Toileriet,  with  the 
exception  of  the  part  beyond  tlie  Aic  deTivom^V^  ^M^«nn<ml^wa8 


2.   PALAIS  DESTUILERIES.  153 

oceapied  down  to  uearly  1840  by  a  labyrinth  of  narrow  streets, 
whlcb  Lonie  Philippe,  the  first  monarch  who  projected  extensive 
city  improYements,  began  to  remove.  The  work  of  demolition  was 
completed  by  Napoleon  III.,  and  the  space  thus  cleared  was  divided 
into  three  parts  (comp.  ground-plan,  p.  88):  the  Square  du  Car- 
rousel; the  Place  du  Carrousel^  which  adjoins  it  on  the  W. ;  and 
the  Cour  dea  Tuileries. 

The  Plaob  du  Gabbousel  (PI.  R,  17,  20;  //),  formerly  much 
smaller  than  now,  derives  its  name  from  a  kind  of  equestrian  ball 
given  here  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1662.  On  this  site  Napoleon  I.  directed 
his  architects  Fontaine  and  Percier  to  erect  the  *Arc  de  Triomphe 
du  Oarrousel,  in  imitation  of  the  Arch  of  Severus  at  Rome ,  to 
commemorate  his  victories  of  1805  and  1806.  The  structure,  which 
was  formerly  the  principal  entrance  to  the  Tuileries,  is  48  ft.  in 
height,  63i/2  ft.  in  width,  and  21  ft.  in  thickness,  but  in  conse- 
quence of  the  immense  clearance  that  has  taken  place  since  its 
erection  It  is  now  too  small  to  harmonise  with  its  surroundings. 
(The  Arch  of  Severus  is  75  ft.  in  height  and  82  ft.  in  width.) 

The  arch  is  perforated  by  three  arcades  and  embellished  with  Corin- 
thian eolninns  of  red  marble  with  bases  and  capitals  in  bron/e  supporting 
marble  statues  representing  soldiers  of  the  empire. 

The  Marble  Relief*  on  the  sides  commemorate  the  achievements  of  the 
Emperor  and  the  French  army.  In  front:  on  the  right,  the  Battle  of 
AuBterlltz ;  on  the  left,  the  capitulation  of  the  Austrian  general  Mack  at 
TJlm.  At  the  back:  on  the  right,  the  conclusion  of  peace  at  Tilsit;  on 
the  left,  entry  into  Munich.  On  the  N.  end,  the  entry  into  Vienna;  on  the 
8.  end,  conclusion  of  peace  at  Pressburg. 

The  arch  was  originally  crowned  with  the  celebrated  ancient  Quadriga 
from  the  portal  of  St.  Mark's  in  Venice,  brought  thence  as  a  trophy,  but 
<aent  back  to  Venice  by  Emperor  Francis  in  1814.  It  was  afterwards  re- 
placed by  order  of  Louis  XVIII.  by  a  Quadriga  designed  by  Bosio^  and 
intended  to  represent  the  ^Restoration'. 

The  Xonnment  of  Gambetta ,  opposite  the  arch ,  consists  of  a 
iofty  stone  pyramid  with  a  group  in  high  relief  representing  Gam- 
betta (1838-82)  as  organiser  of  the  national  defence,  in  bronze  by 
-^ubi.  At  the  sides  are  decorative  statues  of  less  importance  repre- 
^lenting  Truth  and  Strength,  and  on  the  top  is  Democracy  (a  maiden 
^Mated  on  a  winged  lion),  also  in  bronze,  by  Aub^.  The  numerous 
^^Jiscrlptions  are  chiefly  passages  from  Gambetta^s  political  speeches. 

On  the  pillars  outside  the  large  archways  leading  from  the  Place 
^n  Carrousel  towards  the  Seine,  are  statues  of  Naval  and  Merchant 
Shipping,  by  Jouffroy.  At  the  top  is  a  bronze  relief ,  by  Mercie, 
^^presentlng  the  Genius  of  the  Arts.  —  Pont  du  Carrousel,  see 
:^.  263.  The  next  bridge  is  the  Pont  Royal  (p.  271),  whence  the 
Sculptures  on  the  S.  facade  of  the  Pavilion  de  Flore,  especially  those 
^y  Oarpeanx,  are  best  seen. 

The  *Jardin  des  Tuileries  (PL  R,  18, 17 ;  //),  the  m^^X.  ^Q^\3\»:t 
promenade  in  Paris  and  the  especial  paradise  oi  ivuiseTSi^\<i^  ^^^ 
«hlldreD,  WM3  enlMTged  in  1889  by  the  addition  ot  t^ft  ^«.T^«Yva  q^cv^- 


154  2.   JARDIN  DES  TUILERBES. 

pying  the  actual  site  of  the  former  palace.  The  older  portion  retains 
the  same  general  features  as  when  first  laid  out  hy  the  oelehrated 
landscape-gardener  Le  Ndtre  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XIY. ;  hut  the 
parts  between  the  Place  du  Carrousel  and  the  central  basin,  formerly 
the  *Jardin  Reserve',  and  the  Rue  dea  Tuileriea  are  of  later  origin. 

The  greater  part  of  the  Jardin  des  Tuileries  is  always  open ; 
but  the  reserved  portion  closes  between  6  and  9  p.m.,  according  to 
the  season,  the  signal  being  given  by  a  drum.  The  gardens  may  be 
entered  from  the  Rue  des  Tuileries,  the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  the  quays, 
or  from  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  at  the  W.  end.  At  the  W.  end, 
beyond  the  flower-beds,  is  a  shady  grove  of  large  trees.  On  the  N. 
and  S.  sides  the  garden  is  enclosed  by  terraces,  called  the  Terraasc 
des  FeuiUants  and  the  Terrasae  du  Bord  de  VEau.  The  first  derives 
its  name  from  a  Monastery  of  the  Feuillant  Order  (reformed  Cister- 
cians), founded  here  in  1587.  The  club  of  the  moderate  party, 
founded  in  July,  1791,  by  Lameth,  Lafayette,  and  their  partizans, 
in  opposition  to  the  more  violent  Jacobins,  used  to  meet  In  the 
monastery,  whence  they  became  known  as  ^Lea  Feuillanta\  The 
AlLSe  dea  Orangera,  which  skirts  the  terrace,  is  adorned  in  fine 
weather  with  two  rows  of  orange-trees  in  tubs,  forty-one  of  which 
date  from  the  time  of  Francis  I.  (1494-1547). 

Entering  the  garden  from  the  Rue  des  Tuileriea  by  the  broad 
central  walk,  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  whole  garden,  with  the 
Obelisk  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  and  the  Arc  de  VEtoile  in  the 
background.  On  the  right  and  left  are  grass-plots  with  two  cir- 
cular basins  of  water,  embellished  with  marble  statues  and  vases. 

In  the  new  part,  on  the  site  of  the  palace  proper,  central  walk:  in 
the  centre,  'Quand-m3me*,  by  MercU;  to  the  right,  Ganymede,  by  Jtor* 
thilemy^  and  The  Awakening,  by  Mayer;  to  the  left,  Blegy,  by  CaiU4; 
The  secret,  by  Moulin,  Farther  on,  to  the  left:  Eve  after  the  Fall,  by 
Delaplanehe ;  Exiles,  by  M,  Moreau;  Yelleda,  by  Maindran;  Snianne,  by 
Oalli.  On  the  right,  Agrippina  with  the  ashes  of  Oermanicns,  by  Mcrillet; 
Judith,  by  Lanson;  Penelope,  by  ManiffUerg  Magdalen,  hj  JPiene;  and  Faun, 
by  Becqttet. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Rue  des  Tuileries,  central  walk,  on  the  right: 
Omphale,  by  Eude;  ^neas  carrying  his  father  Anchises  from  the  flames 
of  Troy,  by  P.  Lepautre;  a  Bacchante,  by  CarrUr-Btlleustf  behind,  Venui 
with  the  dove,  and  Kymph  with  the  quiver,  by  Ouill,  CauaUm;  Lion 
and  crocodile,  bronze  by  Cain.  In  the  ail^e  before  the  rondel:  Diana 
and  the  Kymph  of  Fontainebleau,  by  B.  Liviqua.  On  the  left:  a  Gorybante, 
by  Cugniot;  Lucretia  and  CoUatinns,  by  I^auira;  Kew  Tear*s  Day,  by 
Baaugeault;  behind.  Flora  and  Zephyr,  by  Coyzavox;  on  the  lawn,  Lionesa  and 
peacock  (bronze),  by  Cain,  Near  the  central  basin:  to  the  right  and  left, 
Orithyia  carried  off  by  Boreas,  by  Duqueanoy  and  O,  Marsy^  Cybele  eanled 
off  by  Saturn,  by  Regnaudin;  then  from  right  to  left,  Cassandra  and  Minerva, 
by  A.  Millet;  Alexander  the  Great,  by  Diaudonn4;  Prometheus,  by  Fradiarf 
Soldier  tilling  the  ground  (from  Virgil),  by  Lemaira;  the  Oath  of  Spartaens, 
by  Barrias;  Oincinnatus,  by  Foyatiar;  Alexander  fighting,  by  Lama^ra;  Bi^e 
of  Dejaneira,  by  Marquette;  Pericles,  by  Debay.  In  the  transverae  walk  to 
the  left:  Comedy,  hj  Roux;  the  Grinder,  after  the  Florentine  antiqiiei  Phi> 
diaSf  by  Pradier,  In  the  walk  to  the  right:  Comedy,  by  ChriaXophai  Aurora, 
bronze  figure  by  Magniar;  Ugolino,  in  bronze,  by  (karpaaux;  Silence,  by 
Ze^ros,  —  At  the  beginning  of  the  AlUe  ^ea  Otangers:  Betum  ttom  the 
ouDi,   bronze,  hy  Ant,  Carina  (1888)-,  at  the  (\\%\i\  ot  «\«^% QV^M^te  tk«  i' 


2.   JARDIN  DES  TUILERIES.  155 

leading  to  the  Venddme  Golomn  (p.  84),  two  groups  of  animals,  by  Cain\  at 
the  end,  Hereoles  subduing  the  Hydra,  in  bronze,  by  Botic.  Other  sculptures 
are  placed  in  the  grove,  etc.  On  the  Terrasse  du  Bord  de  TEau,  near  the 
Ovangerle,  *Lion  and  serpent  0>ronze),  one  of  the  principal  works  of  Batye. 

Under  the  trees  of  the  small  grove ,  on  the  right  and  left  of  the 
hroad  central  walk,  are  two  marhle  semicircular  platforms  called 
the  Carris  d'Atalante,  constmcted  in  1793,  in  accordance  with  the 
initroctions  of  Rehespierre,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  council 
of  old  men  who  were  to  preside  over  the  floral  games  in  the  month 
of  Germinal  (21st  March  to  19th  April).  On  that  to  the  right  is  a 
group  of  Atalanta  and  Hippomenes  hy  O,  Coustou ,  and  on  that  to 
the  left,  Apollo  and  Daphne  by  Thiodon,  —  In  summer  a  military 
band  plays  near  this  spot  on  Tues.  and  Thurs.  from  4  to  5  or  5  to 
6  p.m.   Chair  15  c,  irm-chair  20  c. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  grove  is  an  octagonal  basin,  200  yds.  in 
drcnrnfeience ,  with  a  fountain  in  the  centre,  where  children  sail 
small  boats  (50  c. ;  on  hire  1  or  2  fr.  per  hour).  Near  this  point  are 
a  puppet-show,  a  cake-stall,  and  a  refreshment  stall.  On  the  E. 
side  are  marble  statues  of  the  four  seasons :  on  the  right,  Summer 
and  Winter ;  on  the  left,  Spring  and  Autumn.  On  the  W.  side  are 
four  groups  of  river-gods :  on  the  left,  the  Nile,  by  Bourdie,  and  the 
Rhine  and  Moselle ,  by  Van  Cleve ;  on  the  right,  the  Rh6ne  and 
Sadne,  by  Q.  Couatou,  and  the  Tiber  by  Van  Cleve,  The  Nile  is 
after  an  antique  in  the  Vatican,  the  Tiber  after  one  in  the  Louvre 
fp.  98).  At  the  ends  of  the  terraces  are,  to  the  right  a  Tennis  Court 
(Dall-Toom),  to  the  left,  an  Orangery, 

A  Dog  Show  is  held  in  Hay  on  the  Terrasse  du  Bord  de  TEau  (to  the 
left)  and  a  Flower  Show  a  little  later  (to  the  right). 

The  pillars  at  the  entrance  to  the  garden  from  the  Place  de  la 
Concorde  are  crowned  with  two  handsome  groups  of  Mercury  and 
^ame  on  winged  steeds,  by  Coyzevox.  —  Description  of  the  Place 
^  la  Concorde,  see  p.  82. 

3.  Champs-Elysees  and  Bois  de  Boulogne. 

The  first  part  of  this  excursion  should  if  possible  be  performed  on 
■  *^)0t  or  in  a  cab  hired  by  the  hour.  Those  who  wish  to  go  direct  to  the 
-^^ols  de  Boulogne  may  proceed  by  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture  or  the 
^^J|etropolitan  Railway,  or  they  may  take  the  omnibus  (see  p.  160  and  Appx.). 
^j'tt  days,  however,  when  races  or  reviews  are  held,  and  even  on  fine  Sun- 
^^ays,  it  is  impossible  to  secure  a  place  in  the  omnibuses  and  tramway- 
^^«r8  bound  for  the  Bois  without  much  waiting.  —  Luncheon  may  be  taken 
^^i  the  Champ»-Elys^es  or  in  the  Bois  (see  pp.  18,  19). 

X.  F&OH  THE  PLAGE  SE  LA  CONCORDE  TO  THE  PLACE  DE 
L*ETOILE. 

Place  de  la  Concorde,  see  p.  82.   On  the  W.  aide  ol  >iXi\^^\%.^^ 
^egin  the  ^duunps-Eljf^eB  (PL  R,  15;  Il\  nndex  ^^U\i  Tv^Tsve.  ^^ 
^ow  intended  not  only  the  small  park  adjoining  tAift  l?\^^e,  iXiW\J^ 


156  3.  OHAMPS-ELYSfiES. 

750  yds.  long  by  400  yds.  wide  (the  Champs-Elys^es  proper) ,  but 
also  the  whole  of  the  avenue ,  extending  from  the  Place  de  la  Con- 
corde to  the  Arc  de  TEtoile,  l^/a  M.  in  length,  hy  which  these 
grounds  are  traversed.  The  grounds  were  originally  laid  out  and 
planted  with  elms  and  lime-trees  at  the  end  of  the  17th  century. 

This  magnificent  avenue ,  flanked  with  handsome  buildings ,  is 
one  of  the  most  fashionable  promenades  in  Paris ,  especially  in  the 
afternoon,  when  numerous  carriages,  riders,  and  pedestrians  are  on 
their  way  to  and  from  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  Oaf^s-concerts,  see 
p.  36.   Less  frequented  parts  are  better  avoided  after  dusk. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Ghamps-Elys^es  are  placed  two  figures 
of  Horse  Tamers,  by  Coustou.  They  were  removed  in  1794  from  the 
palace  at  Marly  (p.  335)  to  their  present  position,  where  they  form 
a  suitable  counterpart  to  the  winged  steeds  at  the  exit  of  the  Jardin 
des  Tuileries  (p.  155).  The  small  and  tasteful  drinking -foun- 
tains, which  we  notice  in  the  Champs -Elystfes  and  elsewhere  in 
Paris,  were  erected  by  Sir  Richard  Wallace  (d.  1890). 

To  the  right,  separated  from  the  Champs-Elys^es  by  a  large  garden, 
18  the  Palais  de  l^Elysee  (PI.  B,  15^  //),  erected  by  Molet  in  1718  for  the 
Comte  d'Evreax,  but  rebuilt  on  a  larger  scale  by  Lacroix  in  1860.  It  is 
now  the  official  residence  of  the  President  of  the  Republic  (no  admisaion). 
The  entrance  is  at  Ko.  55  Rue  du  Faubourg-St-Honor^.  During  the  reign 
of  Louis  XV.  this  mansion  was  the  residence  of  Madame  de  Pompadour, 
from  whose  heirs  it  was  purchased  by  the  king  to  form  a  residence 
for  the  foreign  ambassadors.  Under  Louis  XVI.  the  palace  acquired  the 
name  of  Elytie  Bourbon  from  its  prolonged  occupation  by  the  Duchease 
de  Bourbon.  During  the  Revolution  the  palace  was  offered  for  sale,  but, 
no  purchaser  offering,  it  was  converted  into  a  government  printing-office. 
At  the  time  of  the  Directory  the  rooms  were  let  to  keepers  of  public  ball- 
rooms and  gaming-tables.  The  palace  was  afterwards  occupied  in  turn 
by  Murat,  l^apoleon  I.,  Louis  Bonaparte,  King  of  Holland,  and  his  queen 
Hortense,  Emperor  Alexander  I.  of  Russia,  and  the  Due  de  Berry.  The 
building  was  left  uninhabited  after  the  Revolution  of  1830,  until  Kapo- 
leon  III.  took  possession  of  it  as  President  of  the  French  Republic,  enlarging 
and  improving  it  considerably. 

Considerable  alterations  have  been  made  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Champs-Elys^es  for  the  universal  exhibition  of  1900,  and  the  view 
of  the  Seine  (Cours  la  Reine,  p.  164)  is  now  built  up.  The  Palais 
(le  rindustrie,  which  was  erected  in  1855  for  the  first  Great  Ex- 
hibition at  Paris  and  afterwards  used  for  the  ^ Salon*,  or  annual 
exhibition  of  modem  paintings  and  sculptures ,  was  demolished  in 
1897  to  make  way  for  the  new  Palais  des  Beaux- Arts ,  between 
which  the  Avenue  Nicolas  Deux  runs  towards  the  new  Pont  Alexan- 
dre  III.  (p.  165). 

The  ♦Petit-Palais  (P1.R,16;  II),  on  the  left  sideof  the  Ayenue 
Nicolas  II.  as  we  approach  the  Pont  Alexandre  III,  (p.  165),  was 
built  in  1897-1900  and  is,  in  spite  of  its  name,  a  large  building, 
covering  an  area  of  about  9500  sq.  yds.  It  was  designed  by  CharUs 
(r/raiilt,  in  a  style  suggestive  of  the  17- 18th  cent,  and  haimoniz- 
nig  with  the  adjacent  structures  iu  the  Place  de  la  Oonemde  and 
the  Place  des  In  valides.    It  is  in  the  loim  ^l  \  tsi^j^^tadod  tiape- 


3.   GRAND-PALAIS.  If 

zium,  on  an  elevated  basement,  and  is,  perhaps,  more  snccessful 
than  its  larger  neighbonr.  The  main  facade,  turned  towards  the 
avenue,  Is  adorned  with  two  graceful  colonnades,  one  on  each  side 
of  the  central  dome,  which  contains  the  principal  entrance,  with  a 
flight  of  steps  and  a  portico  with  a  semicircular  pediment  At  the 
angles  aie  two  lower  pavilions,  with  domes  and  triangular  pedi- 
ments; and  there  are  two  other  domes  in  the  rear.  On  the  lateral 
facades,  between  the  windows,  are  niches  for  statues.  The  roof  is 
concealed  by  a  parapet.  There  are  statues  between  the  columns  of 
the  main  facade,  and  relief-friezes  within  the  colonnades.  On  each 
side  of  the  central  dome  there  is  a  large  hall,  and  beyond  is  a  semi- 
ciicnlar  court,  with  colonnade  and  galleries.  —  During  1900  the 
Petit-Palais  will  contain  an  'Exposition  Retrospective*  or  historical 
collection;  thereafter  it  is  to  be  used  as  a  municipal  museum. 

The  *Grand-FaIai8  (PI.  R,  15;  //),  opposite  the  Petit-Palais, 
was  buUt  at  the  same  time  by  Louvet,  Deglane^  and  Thomas,  Its 
dimensions,  covering  an  area  of  about  38,000  sq.  yds.,  are  impos- 
ing. It  consists  of  a  large  front  building,  united  with  a  smaller  one 
in  the  rear  by  a  transverse  gallery.  The  style  is  composite,  but 
mainly  reminiscent  of  the  17th  century.  The  facade  is  adorned  with 
a  double  colonnade,  rising  to  a  height  of  two  stories ;  and  there  are 
three  monumental  entrances  in  the  central  pavilion.  The  sculptures 
of  the  central  portico,  representing  the  Beauty  of  Nature,  and  Mi- 
nerva and  Peace,  are  by  Oasq,  Boucher ^  Verlet^  and  Lombard.  Those 
to  the  right  represent  Sculpture,  Painting,  Architecture,  and  Music, 
and  are  by  Cordonnier,  Lefehvre,  Cartas,  and  Labatut.  To  the  left 
are  the  Arts  of  Cambodia,  Egypt,  Greece,  and  Rome,  by  Bareauj 
SwAet^  Biguine^  and  Clausade.  On  and  under  the  colonnades  are 
irlezes  of  Amoretti,  holding  the  attributes  of  the  arts.  At  the  top 
are  a  balustrade,  allegorical  groups  on  the  abutments,  by  Seysses  and 
Greher,  and  bronze  quadriga),  by  Ricipon.  In  the  middle  of  the 
principal  building  rises  a  depressed  dome.  The  rear-fagade,  in  the 
A.ve.  d'Antln,  is  embellished  with  colonnades,  sculpture,  and  friezes 
In  polyehrome  stoneware,  made  at  Sevres  (Ancient  and  Modern  Art). 
—  In  1900  this  building  is  to  be  used  for  contemporary  and  centen- 
nial exhibitions.  Afterwards  it  is  to  be  the  scene  of  the  annual 
exhibitions  of  paintings  and  sculptures,  horse  shows,  agricultural 
fairs,  and  the  like.  Its  destination  explains  the  peculiarities  of  its 
internal  construction.  The  roof  is  glazed,  consisting  of  curved  sheets 
of  glass  10  ft.  long  and  3  ft.  wide. 

The  PoMteur  Monument^  by  Falguiere,  showing  Fame  crowning  the  il- 
lustrious chemist  (p.  2:)8),  in  bronze-gilt,  is  to  be  erected  at  the  beginning 
of  the  Avenue  Nicolas  II.  —  Pont  Alexandre  III.^  see  p.  165. 

Beyond  the  Grand  Palais  des  fieaux-Arts,   to  the  left,  is  a 
former  panorama,  converted  into  a  PaloM  de  Qlaet,  with  a  floor  of 
real  ice  for  skating  {v.  39).    On  the  other  side  ot  l^e  ^Nftxvxjift  ^t^  >Ccl^ 
Ckrqu€  Faiaee  (p.  35) y  the  Restaurant  Paillard  (id.  i^'N.  wi^  ^^ 
!l%idtfw  Mar^y  Cp,  36). 


158  3.  ARC  DE  L'BTOILE. 

The  park  or  Carri  des  Champs-ElysSes  extends  as  far  as  the 
Bond-Point  des  Champi-ElysSea  (PI.  B,  15;  W),  a  circular  space 
adorned  with  beds  of  flowers  and  six  fountains,  situated  about  half- 
way between  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  and  the  Arc  de  TEtoile. 
Two  avenues  descend  hence  to  the  Seine:  the  Avenue  d^Antiny 
leading  to  the  Pont  des  Invalides  (p.  165),  and  the  Avenue  Mon- 
taigne, leading  towards  the  Pont  de  TAlma  (p.  165). 

To  the  N.  of  the  Bond-Point  the  Avenue  d'Antin  is  prolonged  to  the 
church  of  St.  Philippe  du  Boule  (PL  B,  15^  //),  in  theBue  du  Faubourg- 
St-Honor^,  an  edifice  in  a  Greek  style,  by  Chalgrin  (1769-84).  The  cupola 
is  adorned  with  a  Descent  from  the  CIross,  by  Chassiriau, 

Farther  on,  to  the  left  of  the  Champs-Elys^es,  extends  the  mod- 
ern Quartier  Marbeuf,  consisting  of  handsome  private  residences. 
The  Trocad^ro,  about  8/4  M.  from  this  point,  may  be  reached  by  an 
omnibus  traversing  the  Rue  Pierre-Charron.  ! —  The  Avenue  des 
Champs-Elys^es ,  in  which  the  vast  ElyUe  Palace  Hotel  (p.  3)  is 
conspicuous,  ends  at  the  — 

*Plaob  db  l'Etoilb  (PI.  B,  12 ;  i),  so  named  from  the  star 
formed  by  the  twelve  different  boulevards  or  avenues  which  radiate 
from  it  (see  p.  159).  This  Place  occupies  a  slight  eminence,  on  the 
summit  of  which  rises  the  — 

*Arc  de  Triomphe  dePEtoiley  the  largest  triumphal  arch  in  exist- 
ence ,  and  visible  from  almost  every  part  of  the  environs  of  Paris, 
Begun  by  Napoleon  I.  in  1806,  it  was  completed  by  Louis  Philippe 
in  1836,  from  designs  by  Chalgrin  (d.  1811).  It  consists  of  a  vast  arch, 
96  ft.  high  and  48  ft.  wide,  intersected  by  a  lower  transversal  arch, 
61  ft.  high  and  27  ft.  wide.  The  whole  structure  is  162  ft.  in  height, 
147  ft.  in  width,  and  73  ft.  in  depth.  The  arch  conveys  a  somewhat 
heavy  impression  when  approached.  The  huge  pillars  of  masonry  on 
which  it  rests  are  adorned  only  with  colossal  trophies,  36  ft  high, 
with  figures  16  ft.  high.  The  final  top  member  is  still  wanting. 

The  following  groups  adorn  the  £.  fagade:  on  the  right,  ^Bising  of 
the  people  in  17^  at  the  summons  of  the  Genius  of  War,  by  Rude^  the 
finest  of  the  four  groups ;  above  it,  the  Obsequies  of  Qeneri^  Hareeau,  by 
Lemaire.  On  the  left,  Triumph  of  If apoleon  after  Uie  Austrian  campaign, 
and  the  Peace  of  Vienna  (1810);  by  Cortot  (d.  1843);  above  it,  the  Pasha 
M ustapha  surrendering  to  Murat  at  the  battle  of  Aboukir  (1799),  by  JSntrr^ 
the  Elder,  —  The  bas-reliefs  on  the  frieze  surrounding  the  monument 
represent  the  departure  and  the  return  of  the  troops,  by  Bmn,  Jacquot^ 
Seurre^  and  Rude. 

On  the  W.  facade :  on  the  right,  Resistance  of  the  French  to  the  in- 
vading armies  in  1814,  by  Etex;  above  it.  Passage  of  the  bridge  of  Ar- 
eola (1796;  death  of  Muiron.  Bonaparte's  adjutant),  by  Feuehire4»  On  the 
left,  the  Blessings  of  Peace  (1815),  by  Etex;  above  it,  the  Taking  of  Alexan- 
dria (1798;  Kl^ber,  who  has  received  a  wound  on  the  head,  pomts  oat  the 
enemy  to  his  troops),  by  Chaponniire. 

The  reliefs  on  the  K.  side,  by  Oechier,  represent  the  batUe  of  Anster- 
liU  (1805).    On  the  S.  side  is  the  Battle  of  Jemapnes  (1792),  by  MarocMtUi. 

The  figures  of  Victory  in  the  spandrels  are  by  Prodier.    A  aeries  of 

30  shields  on  the  cornice  above  the   entablature  are  inscribed  with  the 

ajimes  of  different  victories,  while  the  names  of  142  other  battles  appear 

on  tie  vaulting  of  the  principal  arch.    On  \\i«  v vQ\Wn%  Q>t  ^IM  tnoiSTena] 

»rc2i  Are  recorded  the  names  of  officers  ol  Xh*  Ufe^uXiVL^  i»iV  ^^^lSi«^>. 


3.  NEUILLY.  159 

pire,  the  namea  of  general*  who  fell  in  battle  being  underlined  (656 
in  all).  The  figures  of  Victory  in  relief  under  these  names  relate  to  suc- 
cesses gained  in  the  East,  Iforth.  and  South. 

The  coffin  of  Victor  Hueo  (d.  May  22nd ,  1885)  lay  in  state  beneath 
the  arch  on  June  1st,  1886,  before  its  transference  to  the  Pantheon. 

The  Platform,  to  which  a  spiral  staircase  of  263  steps  ascends, 
GommandB  a  noble  *Prospect  (adm.  10  till  dusk,  free,  bat  a  small 
fee,  for  a  charitable  object,  is  expected  by  the  attendant).  Best 
▼lew  in  a  W.  wind  after  rain. 

To  the  £.  the  Champs-Elys^es  and  the  Louvre,  beyond  which  rise 
the  Hdtel  de  Ville  and  (to  the  right)  the  towers  of  Kotre  Dame^  farther 
to  the  right,  the  lofty  dome  of  the  Pantheon.  To  the  S.E.  is  the  gilded 
dome  of  the  Invalides  ^  to  the  S.  the  Eiffel  Tuwer,  the  Trocad^ro,  and  the 
Exhibition  Buildings.  To  the  left  of  the  Louvre  (N.E.)  appear  the  low 
dome  of  the  Bourse,  the  Venddme  Column,  the  green  roof  of  the  Made- 
leine, the  tall  central  portion  of  the  Opera  House,  and  the  church  of  St. 
Augustin.  Farther  to  the  "S.  is  the  white  church  of  the  Sacr^  Goeur  on 
Montmartre,  and  in  the  distance,  the  cathedral  of  St.  Denis.  To  theW., 
to  the  left  of  the  Avenue  of  the  Grande  Arm^e,  we  see  M<»nt  Valorien, 
:with  the  hills  of  St.  Cloud  and  Meudon  farther  to  the  left.  At  our  feut 
stretches  the  Avenue  du  Bois  de  Boulogne. 

The  following  are  the  chief  of  the  twelve  avenues  which  radiate 
from  the  Place  de  TEtoile :  the  Avenue  des  Champs-Elyaies^  described 
at  p.  156 ;  then,  to  the  left,  the  Avenue  Hoche,  leading  to  the  Park 
Monceanx  (770 yds.;  see  p.  198);  the  Avenue  de  la  Ghrande-Armie 
(p.  160),  continuing  the  Avenue  des  Champs  -  Elys^es  towards 
Nenilly  fsee below);  the  Avenue  du  Bois-de-Boulogne (i^.  160h  the 
Avenue  KUber  J  leading  straight  to  the  Trocad^ro  (tramway)  and 
passing  the  pretty  Patois  de  Ca8tille(^o.  19),  the  property  of  Queen 
Isabella  of  Spain ;  and  the  Avenue  Victor  Hugo^  leading  to  the  Bois 
de  Boulogne  via  the  Porte  de  la  Muette  (PI.  R,  5). 

To  the  right  of  the  arch  (in  coming  from  the  Champ.s-Elysdes)  is  a 
station  of  the  Metropolitan  Railwait  (see  Appendix,  p.  33).  Steam-tramway 
to  iSK.  OermakirenrLaye^  see  p.  328. 

Heoilly,  which  lies  to  the  K.  of  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  (Jardin  d'Accli- 
matation;  p.  162),  and  is  traversed  by  the  wide  avenue  of  the  same  name, 
formine  a  prolongation  of  the  Avenue  de  la  Grande-Armde,  is  now  a  suburb 
with  82,730  inhabitants.  The  chateau  of  Neuilly,  once  the  favourite  resi- 
dence of  Louis  Philippe,  was  totally  destroyed  by  the  mob  on  25th  Feb., 
1818,  and  the  park  was  afterwards  parcelled  out  into  building-sites ,  on 
which  numerous  tasteful  villas  have  been  erected.  —  The  Fair  of  Neuilly, 
beginning  about  June  24th  and  lasting  two  or  three  weeks,  is  very 
characteristic  and  attracts  large  crowds  from  Paris. 

In  Ifeuilly,  near  the  line  of  fortiflcations,  on  the  right  side  of  the  Eoute 
de  la  B^TOlte,  is  the  Ohapel  of  St.  Ferdinand  (PI.  B,  9),  a  cruciform 
mausoleum  in  the  Bomanesque  style,  erected  on  the  spot  where  Ferdinand, 
Buke  of  Orleans,  the  eldest  son  of  Louis  Philippe  and  father  of  the  Comte  de 
Paris,  breathed  his  last  on  18th  July,  1842,  in  ccmsequence  of  a  fall  from 
his  carriage.  Admission  daily  $  visitors  ring  at  No.  13,  nearly  opposite  the 
chapel  (fee).  Over  the  high-altar  is  a  Descent  from  the  Cross,  in  marble, 
by  TriqugU.  To  the  left  is  the  Monument  of  the  Duke,  also  by  Triqueii, 
from  a  design  by  Ary  Scheffer,  with  a  fine  praying  angel  by  the  prince'*s 
sister,  Marie  SCrltan*  (d.  1839).  The  windows  are  filled  with  good  stained 
glass  designed  by  Ingres,  The  sacristy  contains  a  picture  b^  Jucq.uaivd 
representing  the  death  of  the  prince. 

Farther  to  the  W.,  at  the  Bond-Point  d'lnkermanix,  axe  ^<i  "«^^^  '^^" 
mMaktaqvB  CkmteM  o/  j3i.  JHerre  (PI.  B,  5),  and  a  broui©  Statue  oj  Perrow* 


160  3.   BOIS  DE  BOULOGNE. 

(1708-94),  builder  of  the  Pont  de  Keuilly,  Pont  de  la  Concorde,  etc.  Close  by 
are  a  handsome  Mairie  (PI.  B,  5),  built  in  1882>86,  and  a  bronze  Statue 
of  Pavmentier  (1737-1813),  who  made  his  first  experiments  in  the  cultivation 
of  the  potato  at  Neuilly.  Both  statues  are  by  Gaudes.  From  KeuiUy  a 
handsome  Bridge  (1766-1772)  crosses  the  Seine  to  the  N.E.,  2  K.  from  the 
Arc  de  Triomphe  (p.  168).  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  to  the  right,  is 
Courbevoie  (p.  291),  and  to  the  left  is  Puteaux  (p.  292),  which  are  connected 
by  another  avenue,  Vs  ^'  ^^  length,  continuing  those  above  mentioned  as 
far  as  the  Monument  de  la  Defense  (p.  292). 

II.  FEOM  THE  PLAGE   BE  L'ETOILE   TO  THE  BOIB  BE  BOULOGNE. 
Hippodrome  de  Longchamp.    Jardin  d'Acdimatation. 

The  Ghemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture  (see  p.  27)  has  stations  at  the  Porte 
Maillot,  in  the  Avenue  du  Bois-de-Boulogne  (see  below),  at  Passy  (p.  171), 
in  the  Avenue  Henri-Martin  (Trocad^ro,  p.  171),  and  at  the  Porte  d'Auteuil 
(see  below).  —  There  are  stations  of  the  MetropoUUm  Railway  (see  Appx., 
p.  33)  at  the  Porte  Maillot  and  the  Porte  Dauphine  (see  below).  —  Omnibus 
from  the  Hotel  de  Ville  to  the  Porte  Maillot,  see  Appx.,  p.  34.  —  The  Chemin 
de  Fer  du  Bote  de  Boulogne  skirts  the  Bois  from  the  Porte  Maillot  to  the 
Porte  de  Suresnes  (p.  292;  35  and  25  c.)  and  crosses  the  bridge  to  the  W. 
to  Suresnes  (p.  292).  —  There  is  also  a  small  Horee  Tramway  from  the  Porte 
Maillot  to  the  Jardin  d'Acdimatation. 

Visitors  who  wish  to  see  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  with  the  least  pos- 
sible expenditure  of  time  should  engage  a  cab  by  the  hour  (special  tariff, 
see  Appx.,  p.  36).  The  principal  points  may  thus  be  visited  in  2-3  hrs. 
Those  who  do  not  wish  to  keep  the  cab  waiting  for  the  return-journey  should 
finish  their  drive  in  the  Bois  before  visiting  the  Jardin  d'Acclimatation.  — 
Bestaurants,  see  p.  19. 

The  Avenue  de  la  Orande-Armie^  piolonging  the  Avenue  des 
Champs-Elys^es  beyond  the  Arc  de  TEtoile  (p.  158),  leads  to  the 
Porte  Maillot  (which  is  named  from  the  *Jeu  de  Mail'  formerly 
played  here) ,  at  the  beginning  of  Nenilly  (p.  169)  and  near  the 
Jardin  d'Acdimatation,  the  nearest  entrance  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne. 

The  Avenue  du  Bois-dC'-Bouloffne  (PI.  B,  R,  9,  6),  leading  from 
the  Arc  de  TEtoile  to  the  W. ,  is  the  usuai  route  followed  by  the 
fashionable  crowds  in  carriages,  on  horseback,  or  on  foot  proceeding 
from  the  Champs-Elys^es  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  The  ayenue  is 
about  140  yds.  in  breadth  finoluding  the  side-alleys  and  the  divid- 
ing strips  of  turf)  and  is  ^/^  M.  long  to  the  Porte  Dauphine  (PL  B, 
6).  In  the  distance  the  Mont  VaWrien  (p.  292)  is  seen  rising  above 
the  Bois.  To  the  right,  near  the  beginning  of  the  avenue,  is  the 
Monument  of  Alphand  (p.  186);  to  the  left  (No.  59)  is  the  new 
Musde  d'Ennery,  containing  a  collection  of  objects  from  E.  Asia,  left 
by  A.  Ph.  d'Ennery,  the  dramatist. 

The  *Bois  de  Boulogne  is  a  beautiful  park  covering  an  area  of 
2250  acres,  bounded  by  the  fortifications  of  Paris  on  the  E.  (see 
p.  xxviii),  the  Seine  on  the  W.,  Boulogne  (p. 293)  and  the  Boulevard 
d'Auteuil  on  the  S.,  and  Neuilly  (p.  159)  on  the  N.  It  is  a  fragment 
of  the  extensive  old  Fdret  de  Rouvray  (from  Lat.  ^roveretuni\  the 
obene  rouvre,  i.e.  holm-oak),  which  also  comprised  the  Purk  of 
St.  Ouen  (p.  209).  This  forest  was  long  in  evil  odour,  being  the  re- 
-^Tt  of  duellists^  suicides,  and  to\)\)eia.  On  \\&  %^\s\&^  Wvever,  were 


3.    BOIS  DE  BOULOGNE.  161 

■overal  princely  residences,  as  well  as  the  famous  ^660;^  de  Long- 
<^^avimp  (p.  162).  The  forest  received  little  attention  until  1852, 
^^liexi  it  was  presented  to  the  municipality,  on  condition  that  a  sum 
of  trvrn  million  francs  should  be  expended  on  it  within  four  years,  and 
^^>A^  it  should  be  maintained  in  future  at  the  municipal  expense.  The 
fti&tliozities  accordingly  converted  it  into  a  park,  and  it  has  become 
ft  favoQzite  promenade  of  the  Parisians.  —  The  annexed  plan  will 
®>^a,l>l6  the  visitor  to  find  his  way  without  difficulty. 

The  Bols  de  Boulogne  is  most  frequented  in  the  afternoon 
be  tureen  3  and  5  o'clock,  the  favourite  routes  heing  those  leading 
^^m  the  Avenue  dn  Bois-de-Boulogne  to  the  lakes,  where  the  hand- 
somest carriages  and  most  elegant  toilettes  are  to  be  seen.  Motor- 
^^v*  and  cyclists  are  prominent  amidst  the  throng  of  vehicles. 

We  enter  the  Bois  hy  the  Forte  Dauphine  (p.  160),  in  the  En- 
^^inte^  or  lines  of  fortifications  (p.  xxviii),  which  are,  however,  more 
®*  less  disguised.  The  broad  Route  de  Suresnes  or  du  LaCy  which 
^^▼eigeg  to  the  left,  leads  in  about  10  min.  to  the  Carre  four  du 
^otst  dfM  LacM  (see  below).  The  Route  de  la  Porte  des  Sablonsj  to 
*^«  Ti^t,  leads  to  (Vs  M.)  the  Jardin  d'Acclimatation  (>.  162), 
^^losatng  the  large  AUSe  de  Longehamp  or  des  Acacias^  which  leads 
^  *h«  left  to  the  racecourse  (see  below).  This  alWe  is  the  chief 
•^Wie  of  the  Fite  des  Flewrs^  held  for  a  benevolent  object  about  the 
**>»«  time  as  the  ^Grand  Prix'  at  Longehamp  (p.  162). 

The  Carrefour  du  Bout  dea  Lacs  is  one  of  the  finest  points  in 
*^Boti  de  Boulogne.  It  lies  at  the  lower  end  of  two  artificial  lakes, 
«« too  JnfMeur  (2/3  M.  in  length  and  100  yds.  in  width),  and  the 
J^  9vpSrUur  (V4  M.  in  length  and  60  yds.  in  width),  which  are 
J^  Vy  the  Canal  de  TOurcq  (p.  201)  and  the  Artesian  Well  of  Passy 
vP*  171).  Two  brooks  issue  from  the  Lac  Inftfrieur,  one  of  which 
"J'*^  to  the  Jardin  d'Acclimatation,  the  other,  or  *Riviere  de  Long- 
•**8»p\  to  the  cascade  (see below).  We  walk  round  the  lakes,  begin- 
Jjng  at  the  left  side.  In  the  Lac  Inftfrieur  are  two  islands  (ferry 
*WW  and  back  10  c. ;  boat  on  the  lake  2-3  fr.),  on  one  of  which  is 
^  Mtf-restanrant  in  the  form  of  a  Swiss  Chalet,  Between  the  two 
■^  is  the  Carrefour  des  Cascades j  and  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Lac 
BvpMeuT  is  the  Butte  Mortemart.  The  vacant  space  here  has 
^Wn  conyerted  into  the  Champ  de  Courses  d^Auteuil^  with  three 
neecourses  (comp.  the  Plan),  for  steeplechases  and  hurdle-races. 
Tie  rue-stands,  whence  there  is  a  fine  view  of  Boulogne  and  St.  Cloud, 
i»  situated  on  the  'butte';  adm.  as  at  Longehamp  (p.  i62).  The 
Orond  SUtfUekase  (value  4800^.)  is  run  at  the  end  of  May  or 
banning  of  June  and  the  Prix  du  Conseil  Municipal  (4000^)  in 
October.  —  Atiteuit,  see  p.  171. 

On  airlTlngat  the  upper  extremity  of  the  Lac  Supe'rieur  we  turn 
lothe  right  and  walk  along  the  margin  of  the  lake  to  t\ve  CarTcf  out  dt% 
Catoadu  (see  above).  Hence  we  follow  the  Avenue  de  V  Hi'p'podto'me 
to  the  laH^  at  the  walk  at  the  side  (see  Plan),  \>otYi  ot  ^\v\0\  ct^^^  ^J^'fc 
Arif.   idth  Edit,  \V 


162  3.    HIPPODROME  DE  LONGCHAMP. 

-wide  AUee  de  la  Reine  Marguerite  and  load  in  15-20  min.  to  the 
Grande  Cascade,  an  artificial  waterfall  issuing  from  a  grotto.   Aftexr 
viewing  the  waterfall,  we  may  ascend  the  eminence  in  front  of  it, 
which  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Seine ;  to  the  left,  on  the 
opposite  bank,  lies  St.  Gload  with  its  modem  chnrch ;  nearer  is  th.c 
Hippodrome  de  Longchamp  (see  below);  opposite  ns  are  a  mill  anc 
two  towers  of  the  ancient  Abbey  of  Longchamp  (p.  161),  with  the 
village  of  Sureanes  beyond  them ;  to  the  right,  a  little  farther  ^^y     , 
is  Mont  Valerien  (p.  292).    A  path  descends  the  hill  to  the  interlo^^E=] 
of  the  grotto  and  the  foot  of  the  fall. 

The  Hippodrome  de  Longchamp  is  the  principal  racecourse  fo         r 
flat  races  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Paris  (see  p.  38).   The  races  (coxir 
sei  or  riunions)  here  take  place  in  spring,  summer,  and  automi     ^b, 
the  days  being  advertised  in  the  newspapers  and  handbills.    TK^    ~y 
attract   vast  crowds   and   are   worth   seeing.     The   'Premiere    A^  a 
Longchamp*,  at  the  beginning  of  April,  opens  the  spring  seasozr  ^ , 
and  the  new  spring  fashions  then  appear  in  all  their  glory.    Tt»- « 
principal  race  at  this  meeting  is  the  ^Cadran*,  worth  1200{.    Tts.  c 
Grand  Prix,  of  260,000  fr.  (10,000^.),  is  competed  for  about  time 
middle  of  June,  and  may  be  styled  the  ^French  Derby*.    It  may  also 
be  said  to  inaugurate  the  summer  season,  as  after  it  the  fashionable 
world  of  Paris  prepares  for  its  annual  migration  to  the  country  or  ttm<s 
seaside.   Charges  for  admission  to  the  hippodrome :  for  a  carriafiP^ 
with  one  horse  15,  with  two  horses  20  fr.  j  each  rider  5  fr. ;  pedestrifl*''** 
1  fr. ;  pavilion  5  fr. ;  weighing-place  (pesage)  20  tr.   There  are  thr^  ^ 
circular  racecourses  (1,  172»  *iid  l^A  M.)  and  one  straight  conr^  * 
(5  furlongs).  —  Reviews  take  place  here  occasionally.  _^ 

Behind  the  race-stands  are  the  Chaleit  du  Cycle,  a  caf^  frequented  1>7,£^2\~ 
clists,  and  the  chief  station  r)f  the  Chemin  de,  Fer  du  Bois  de  Boulogne  (p.  Ifl^^^^', 

The  Seine  may  be  crossed  here  either  via  the  Pont  de  Suran  ^^ 
(p.  2SgJ,  or  by  a  Footbridge  (Fcuserelle  de  VAquedue  de  PAvre)^  constmcU^^S. 
in  1899  near  the  race-stands,  on  the  side  ne;ct  Boulogne  and  St.  ' 

The  Boute  de  Kenilly  (p.  159),  at  the  opposite  end  fh>m  the  raee< 
passes  between  the  Champ  d'Entratnement  and  the  park  of  the  litQe  c 
of  Bagatelle,  constracted  in  one  month  by  the  Comte  d'Artols  (Charles  X.)l  - 
consequence  of  a  wager  with  Marie  Antoinette.    The  Bagatelle  is  now  th  - 

property  of  the  heirs  of  Sir  Richard  Wallace  (d.  1890)  and  not  aeeei 

—  The  part  of  IS^euilly  ad^ioining  this  side  of  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  is  1 
as   Madrid,    a  name  derived  from  a  chateau  which  once  stood  In 
neighbourhood,  built  by  Francis  I.  after  the  Battle  of  Pavia,  and  said  to  1    ^^^ 
thus  named  as  a  reminiscence  of  his  captivity  in  Spain.  Bridge  to  Aitemr."'^^^^ 
see   p.  292.    At  the  Porte  de  Madrid  is  a  Restaurant.    To  the  right  of  Hitf^   %t 
Route  de  Madrid  is  the  (Wcle  drjt  Patineure  (skatint;  club):  to  the  left  lil^^ 
the  Mare  de  St.  James  and  the  Jardin  d'Acclimatation  (see  below). 

The  wide  Allie  de  Longchamp  (side -alleys  pzeferable)  leads ^^ - 
straight  from  the  Hippodrome,  passing  the  Cascade  on  the  right,  ^L 
to  the  (2  M.)  Porte  Maillot  (p.  100).  Near  the  end  of  the  AUfe  a  -^ 
path  to  the  Jardin  d'Acclimatation  diverges  to  the  left. 

■~~"^~"~~"~~~^~"  ^0 

The  Jardin  d'AcoIimatatioii  is  a.iv  ewclosed  part  of  the  Bois 
'Jo  Boulogne  adjoining  the  Bo\ilcvaii\  ^fe  "NL^KWol,  %\^raftS(AAL^  Che  8. 


3.   JARDIN  D'AOCLIMATATION.  163 

^f  the  Avenue  de  Neuilly,  and  between  the  Porte  des  Sablons  and 
^be  Porte  de  Madrid,  and  affords  one  of  the  most  attractiYO  promen- 
^^es  in  the  environs  of  Paris.  It  was  founded  by  a  company  in 
1^854  ^in  order  to  introduce  into  France  and  acclimatise  foreign 
plants  and  animals  suitable  for  domestio  or  ornamental  purposes*. 
^*  covers  an  area  of  50  acres. 

u  Vifitors  who  hire  a  cab  in  Paris  may  dismiss  it  at  the  Porte  Maillot, 
f^tore  the  line  of  the  fortifications  is  crossed  \  otherwise,  the  fare  to  the 
•^^in  is  higher,  and  1  fr.  more  must  be  paid  as  4ndemnit^  de  retonr^ 
^*;^  Appz.).  Kiniatare  tramway  from  the  Porte  Maillot  to  the  Oh  M.) 
^trance  of  the  Jardin  20  c,  to  the  lake  in  the  Jardin  36  c.  The  Chemin 
^  ^«r  du  Bois  de  Boulogne  (p.  160)  has  a  station  at  each  end  of  the  garden. 

I  The  Jardin  d'Acclimatation  is  open  the  whole  day.  Admission 
:^tT.  (greenhouses  included);  on  Sundays  and  holidays  ^2  ^^^  carriage 
^  &.,  in  addition  to  the  charge  for  each  person  in  it ;  no  charge  for 
^Hchman.  Children  under  seven  enter  free. 

The  principal  entrance  is  on  the  E.  side,  near  the  Porte  des  Sa- 
"^lons,  but  there  are  others  to  the  left  (at  the  Palmarium  \  see  below), 
^M  at  the  end  near  the  Porte  de  Neuilly.  —  The  following  itiner- 
'"^y  inelades  most  of  the  objects  of  interest.  Comp.  the  Plan,  p.  160. 

On  entering,  we  find  ourselves  in  a  handsome  walk,  11  yds.  wide, 
^hiehi  runs  round  the  whole  garden.  On  the  left  are  the  Orandt 
^erre  (PI.  15),  or  winter-garden,  and  the  '^Palmarium  (PI.  14),  in 
Nrbiohthe  ordiestra  (p.  164)  plays  in  bad  weather  (seats  2, 1,  1/2  ^^O* 
^he  Irailding  includes  a  Cafi-Rttiaurant. 

Opposite,  or  to  the  right  as  we  enter,  are  two  8maU  Hoihouses^ 
^e  Cfffieea  (PI.  1)  of  the  company,  and  a  Museum  (PI.  2)  illustrating 
hunting  and  flsMng,  adjoined  by  the  sale  rooms  and  the  Vivarium^ 
^  small  room  reserved  for  rare  animals.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is 
^e  SingerUy  or  winter  monkey-house  (PI.  3). 

To  the  left  are  the  StorkSj  Flamingoes,  Cranes,  Herons,  Ostriches, 
Marabouts,  and  other  long-legged  birds.  Behind  are  Aquatic  Birds 
StDons,  OeeUy  Ducks  of  all  kinds)  and  the  Pigeon  House,  in  which 
Airier-pigeons  are  reared.  Then,  a  pavilion  with  caymans,  turtles, 
python,  and  other  serpents.  To  the  right  of  the  walk  is  the 
"^aisanderie  (PI.  4),  in  front  of  which  is  a  statue  in  white  marble 
E"  the  naturalist  Daubenton  (d.  1799),  by  Qodin.  This  building 
Ontains  parroquets,  herons,  ibises,  mandarin  ducks,  and  several 
"^lier  kinds  of  birds,  besides  the  pheasants.  Next  follow  the  Alpacas; 
^'mUlopes;  Llamas;  Yaks;  various  kinds  of  foreign  Ooats;  and,  be- 
^iid,  the  Poulerie  (PL  5),  a  semicircular  concrete  building. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  garden  are  the  Ecuries  (PI.  6),  or  stables, 
^l^d  endoBuzes  connected  with  them,  containing  quadrupeds  trained 
^^  the  purposes  of  the  garden  or  the  amusement  of  visitors.  A  great 
^^liroe  of  delight  to  children  here  is  a  ride  on  the  back  of  an  el- 
^^hant  01  dromedary,  or  a  drive  in  a  carriage  divwwVj  ^i%\.fk.Os\«e»^ 
^mai,  etc.  (charges  25-50  0.).  The  adjoining  \a.^ii  is  xjl^^^  Vtv 
^^mmear  for  etmps  of  foreign  tribes  and  the  W^e. 


164  3.  JARDIN  D'AOOLIMATATION. 

Farther  on  are  the  Quagga,  Zebra,  and  Oiraffe  Houses.  To  the 
side,  the  Porcupines,  Agoutis,  Blue  Foxes,  and  various  other  animals. 
Then,  to  the  right,  is  the  Panorama  of  the  Transatlantie  Fleet  in 
the  Roads  of  Havre  (PI.  7;  adm.  50  o.),  by  Pollpot,  and  beyond  that 
again  the  Antelopes,  Kangaroos,  and  Llamas,  to  the  left,  and  the 
Reindeer  and  the  Cattle-Shed,  to  the  right.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  are 
the  basin  of  the  Ottaries  or  sea-lions  (PI.  8),  which  are  fed  at  3  p.m., 
and  a  rocky  enclosure  for  Chamois  (PI.  9),  Mountain  Ooats,  and  other 
climbing  animals.  Behind  are  Antelopes,  llamas,  and  Alpacas.  To 
the  right  of  the  circular  walk  is  the  LcUterie,  or  dairy.  The  Aqua- 
rium  (PI.  10)  is  not  very  interesting.  Behind  are  a  Seal,  the  Pen- 
guins,  the  fish-ponds,  and  the  Myopotami. 

Farther  on  is  a  Cafe-Buffet  (PI.  11 ;  closed  in  winter),  opposite 
which  is  the  summer  Kiosque  des  Concerts,  where  the  band  plays  at 
3  p.m.  on  Sun.  &  Thursday.  Then  come  the  Deer  Paddocks,  and  (in. 
summer)  the  Parrots.  Finally,  to  the  right,  is  the  Kennel  (PI.  13), 
containing  thoroughbred  dogs,  whose  pedigrees  are  carefully  recorded. 

We  may  return  to  the  town  by  the  same  rente  to  view  the  crowd 
in  the  Boit  and  the  Champt-ElysSet,  bnt  if  the  day  be  nnfavonrable  for 
this  we  may  take  the  CJiemin  de  Fer  de  Ceiniure  (p.  27)  or  the  MetropolUan 
Railway  (p.  27),  or  return  vi&  the  Trocadiro  (p.  169). 

4.  The  Trocadiro,  Fassy,  and  Auteuil. 

(Bois  de  Boulogne.) 

The  following  public  vehicles  ply  in  this  direction  from  the  Place 
de  la  Concorde :  the  Tbahwats  from  the  Lonvre  to  Passy  (T  J),  to  St.  Cloud, 
Sevres,  and  Versailles  (TAB),  and  from  the  Madeleine  to  Antenil  (TAB). 
The  omnibus  from  the  Gare  de  TEst  to  the  Trocadiro  (B)  is  also  con- 
venient. The  Steamboats  on  the  Seine  and  the  MetropolUan  RaUieay  may 
also  be  used. 

I.  FBOM  THE  PLAGE  BE  LA  OONOORDE  TO  THE  TBOOADERO. 

MuB^e  de  Galli^ra.  Musee  Guimet.  Musees  du  Trooadiro. 
The  Mus^e  Galli^ra,  the  Musde  Guimet,  and  the  two  Knsdes  at  the 
Trocadiro  are  open  at  the  same  hours  only  on  Sun.  and  Thurs. ;  though 
admission  may  be  obtained  to  the  Ethnographical  Museum  daily  except 
Monday.  Luncheon  may  be  taken  at  one  of  the  cafds  near  thelVocad^ro 
or  in  the  Place  de  TAlma. 

Place  de  la  Concorde,  see  p.  82.    The  direct  route  to  the  Tro- 
cadiro is  by  the  Cours-la-Rrinb  (PJ.  U,  15, 12;  //,  Z),  a  fine  avenue 
formed  by  Marie  de  M^dicis  in  1616,  and  traTersing  the  Quai  de  la 
Conference  from  end  to  end.    The  quay  derives  its  name  from  an 
old  gate  through  which  the  Spanish  ambassadors  entered  Paris  in 
1 660,  to  confer  with  Mazarin  on  the  betrothal  of  the  Infantk  Maria 
Theresa  with  Louis  XIV.  —  At  present  both  the  Avenue  »nd  the  qnay 
are  occupied  by  buildings  in  connection  with  the  EiUbitlon  of 
1 900  (comp.  p.  274),  which  has  one  of  its  chief  entrances  here  (Place 
ffe  la  Concorde,  p.  84).    The  public  thoroughfare  runs  provitionally 
^long  the  battk  of  the  Seine  and  uwAei  \.^e  Pout  Alexandre  III.    To 
tbc  right  arc  the  two  new  Palais  dcs  Beaux- ATUVs\|A!jftAW^* 


4.   MAISON  DE  FRANgOIS  1.  165 

To  the  left  is  the  new  *Pont  Alexandre  ni.  (PI.  R,  15:  IIX 
the  largest  and  handsomest  hridge  in  Paris,  constrncted  in  1896- 
1900  hy  Bfyal  and  Ally ,  the  engineers ,  and  Cassien-Bemard  and 
Coussin^  the  architects.  The  foundation-stone  was  laid  by  the  Czar 
Nicholas  II.  The  bridge  consists  of  a  fiat  steel  arch  362  ft.  in  length. 
130  ft.  in  width,  and  25  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  water.  At  each 
end  is  a  massive  pylon ,  76  ft.  high ,  decorated  with  bronze-gilt 
groups ,  representing  France  at  different  epochs  of  its  history ,  by 
Lenoir^  O.  Michel^  Coutan^  and  Marqueste;  the  winged  horses  are  by 
FrSmUt,  Oranet,  and  Steinefj  the  lions  by  Oardet  and  Dalou.  The 
parapets  are  in  bronze  and  copper,  and  bear  tasteful  lamp-posts.  — 
On  the  left  bank  is  the  Esplanade  des  Invalides,  see  p.  273. 

Farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the  Pont  des  Invalides  (PI.  R,  14, 
15;  II) f  adorned  with  Victories  by  Ditfboldt  and  Vilaln. 

To  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  the  Cours-la-Reine  and  the  Rue  Bayard , 
is  the  house  known  as  the  *Mai8on  de  Francois  Premier  (PI.  R,  1 5 ;  //), 
a  very  pleasing  example  of  the  domestic  architecture  of  the  Renais- 
sance. Francis  I.  caused  this  building  to  be  erected  at  Moret,  near 
Fontainebleau,  in  1527,  for  the  reception  of  Diane  de  Poitiers,  or 
according  to  others  for  his  sister  Margaret  of  Navarre,  and  in  1820 
it  was  transferred  to  its  present  site.  The  facade,  the  style  of  which 
is  quite  unique  and  yery  unlike  that  of  contemporary  buildings, 
finds  its  closest  parallel  in  the  palaces  of  Venice.  On  the  ground- 
floor  are  three  large  arched  windows,  to  which  the  three  square- 
headed  windows  of  the  upper  floor  correspond.  The  ornamentation 
on  the  pilasters  between  the  windows  and  at  the  corners  is  singu- 
larly rich  and  elegant.  Many  of  the  medallion-portraits  (including 
that  of  Margaret  of  Navarre,  between  the  arms  of  France  and  Na- 
varre) have  been  restored.  The  back  is  also  worthy  of  inspection, 
but  the  sides  have  been  modernised. 

The  Font  de  I'Alma  (PI.  R,  11,  12;  i),  at  the  end  of  the  quay, 
was  constrncted  in  1856  and  named  in  memory  of  the  Crimean  cam- 
paign. The  buttresses  are  embellished  with  handsome  figures  of  a 
zouave  and  a  private  of  the  line  by  DUboldtj  and  an  artilleryman 
snd  a  chasseur  by  Amaud.  From  the  bridge  the  Avenue  Montaigne 
leads  to  the  N.W.  to  the  Rond-Point  des  Ghamps-Elys^es  (p.  158). 

To  the  right  from  the  Avenue  Montaigne  diverges  ih^  Rue  Jean-Qoujon 
(PI.  £,  12:  7),  which  attained  a  melancholy  celebrity  in  May,  1897,  owing 
to  a  terrible  fire  at  a  charity  bazaar,  in  which  1^  persons  perished.  A 
memorial  chapeK  called  Noire  Dame  de  Contolation  (PI.  R,  12:  77),  has  been 
built,  from  Guilbert's  designs,  on  the  site  of  the  disaster  (190O). 

The  next  quay,  the  Quai  DebiUy,  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  Tro- 
eadto  Park.  During  the  Exhibition  this  quay  will  be  flanked  by 
*01d  Pads',  a  picturesque  reproduction,  by  Robida,  of  the  QiiA  'i>\\^ 
idjoining  quarters  as  they  were  in  the  16th  century. 

The  Avenue  dn  Trocad^ro  ascends  to  the  l^.'W .  to  t\ift  w^v^^  V^^^ 
of  the  Trocad^ro  Park,  In  this  avenue,  on  the  rigM,  \s  XV**-  — 


166  4.  MUSfiE  DE  GALLlfiRA. 

*]Iu86e  de  Galliira  (PL  R,  12;  I),  in  the  Italian  Renaissance 
style,  by  Oinain,  built  by  the  mnniflcence  of  the  Dacbesse  de  Gal- 
li^ia  (d.  1888 ;  comp.  pp.  296, 299).  The  facade  towards  the  avenue 
is  embellished  with  statues  of  Sculpture,  Architecture,  and  Paint- 
ing, by  Cavelier,  Thomaa,  and  Chapu,  There  are  other  sculptures 
at  the  sides :  to  the  right,  Pan  and  a  bear,  by  Becquet,  The  Earth, 
by  A.  Boucher;  to  the  left,  Education  of  Bacchus,  by  Perraudj 
Patronage  and  the  Future,  by  Icard,  —  The  entrance,  which  is  in 
the  Rue  Pierre-Oharron  (No.  10),  is  preceded  by  a  small  square  witK 
a  bronze  group  representing  *Wine',  by  Eolweck,  The  museum  was 
originally  intended  for  the  collections  of  the  Duchesse  de  Galli^ra, 
but  these  having  been  bequeathed  to  the  city  of  Genoa,  it  now  con- 
tains the  nucleus  of  a  municipal  museum  of  art  and  industry.  Open 
free  daily,  except  Mon.,  12-4.    Catalogue  in  preparation. 

Court.  In  the  arcades  on  each  side  are  scalptnres:  on  the  right, 
Ji.  Chatroiuse^  History  recording  the  centenary  of  the  Bevolntion;  Httgues, 
Potter;  A.  (VHottdain^  War^  Cordormier^  Maternal  happiness;  on  the  left, 
Vital  Cornuy  Archimedes;  U.  Peyrol.^  The  combat;  E.  Chatrouite^  The  Nurse; 
(Hrard^  Iphigeneia. 

Vestibule.  Five  marble  statues:  Ovilhert^  Daphnis  and  Ohloe;  Vital 
Cornu  (to  the  right),  A  woman;  RoufozH^  The  first  shiver;  Big^ne^  Sor- 
ceress; Fontaine^  Fascination.  —  Labgb  Saloon.  This  and  the  following 
rooms  chiefly  contain  Taputries.  The  best  are  the  five  tapestries  of  SS.  Ger- 
vais  and  Protais,  hung  above  the  others.  These  were  executed  in  the 
studios  of  the  Louvre  about  1660-1665,  <.«.  ehortly  before  the  establishment 
of  the  Qobelins  (p.  268),  and  represent  the  flagellation  of  the  saints,  after 
Le  Sueur;  their  execution,  after  8.  Bourdon;  the  translation  of  their  relics, 
their  appearance  to  St.  Ambrose,  and  the  discovery  of  their  relics,  after 
Ph.  de  Ghampaigne.  In  the  upper  row  also  are:  Rape  of  Helen;  Ulysses 
recognizing  Achilles  among  the  daughters  of  Lycomedes  (Brussels).  Below, 
from  right  to  left:  Achilles  armed  and  consoled  by  Thetis  (Brussels;  ca. 
1776);  Gipsy  camp,  The  falconer  (Beauvais ;  1770  and  1774);  Bivouac,  Break- 
ing up  camji  (Gobelins;  1763):  Snares  of  Marriage,  Bepast  (Faubourg  St.  Mar- 
cel: ca.  1600);  Swoon  of  Armida  (Gobelins,  17S9).  —  The  glass-cases  contain 
modem  articles:  porcelain  and  earthenware  by  ChapM  and  DtiahereHi; 
glass  by  L.  Tiffany;  enamels;  chased  silver  casket  with  enamels  by  A.  Point: 
pewter  articles  by  Baffler^  Desbois ,  CharpenHer,  and  Ledruf  damascened 
casket  by  Oauvin ;  chased  silver  casket  by  Barri.  Sculptures :  in  the  centre, 
A.  Boucher^  Diana;  in  the  comers,  B.  de  la  Vingtrie,  Pandora;  H,  JPM, 
Wood-echo;  J,  A.  Pizieux^  Youth;  Vital  Cwntt,  Sweet  lassitude.  Busts: 
Turcatiy  Houdon;  J.  Ba/^er^  Jeannette;  Dalou^  Armand  Benaud;  ^Jiodin^ 
Victor  Hugo.  —  I^ezt  Gallbrt.  Ancient  Tapestry :  in  the  middle,  March 
(Faubourg  St.  Marcel);  To  the  right,  The  Endangered  Slumber  and  Pan 
and  Amymone  (Gobelins).  Sculptures:  LdbattU,  Cato  of  Uticat  Z^smoitts, 
Love;  P«}Ton,  Wreck;  Barreau,  Matho  and  Salambo ;  Levauew\  The  pearl; 
Boisaeau^  Fmits  of  war;  M,  Moreau^  The  future;  Oatpari^  Desolation; 
Fonques,  Hound.  Numerous  drawings  by  Puvi*  de  Cfhavannes.  —  The  Small 
Rooms  at  the  ends  contain  two  TapeitiHet:  Autumn  and  Summer  (Gobelins) 
after  paintings  by  Mignard  (1678),  destroyed  with  the  palace  of  St.  Cloud. 
Sculptures :  HercuUy  Turenne  as  a  boy ;  Oaudet^  Sully  as  a  boy  \  Kolton, 
Wolf;  Gardet,  Danish  wolf-hound.  —  Last  Boom,  next  the  vestibule. 
Tapestries:  Summer  and  a  Pastoral  Scene  (Gobelins).  Sculpture:  Hercule^ 
Primroses;  Dehois,  Bust;  A.  Moncel^  Ivy.  Pewter  fountain,  by  CkarpeiMtr, 
Also  water-colours,  wood-carvings,  enamels,  engraved  gUft,  oameos,  etc. 

An  Equestrian  Statue  of  Washington  (p.  169),  by  Pan.  Fiendh, 
is  to  be  erected  in  1900,  at  the  co&t  of  some  American  Udies,  in 
the  Place  d'l^n&y  to  the  W.  of  the  mufteum.   k  1<cti  iw^  UartlMr  on, 


4.  MUSfiEGUIMET.  167 

to  the  right,  rises  the  handsome  *Miu^  Oaiinet  (PI.  R,  12;  1),  less 
richly  decorated  hut  not  devoid  of  originality,  with  a  rotunda  at  the 
angle,  surmounted  by  a  colonnade  and  cupola.  It  contains  the  ex- 
tenslTe  and  valuahle  collections  presented  to  the  state  in  1886  by 
M.  Em.  Gulmet  of  Lyons,  consisting  mainly  of  a  Museum  of  the  Re- 
Ugiona  of  India  and  Eastern  Asia^  but  including  also  a  Library  and 
collections  of  Oriental  Pottery  and  of  Antiquities.  —  The  museum 
is  open  daily,  except  Mon.,  from  12  to  4  or  5  (see  p.  56),  but  only 
one  of  the  three  divisions  (groundfloor,  1st  floor,  2nd  floor)  is  shown 
on  any  one  day.  The  days  of  the  week  on  which  each  division  is 
open  are  regularly  alternated;  thus  if  the  groundfloor  be  open  on 
Tues.  in  any  particular  week,  the  1st  floor  will  be  open  on  the  next 
Tueg.,  and  the  2nd  floor  on  the  Tues.  following.  The  chief  objects 
only  are  noticed  here.  Explanatory  labels  are  attached  to  the  ex- 
hibits. Short  illustrated  catalogue  (1897),  1  fr.  Sticks  and  umbrellas 
must  be  given  up  (no  fee).  Keeper,  M,  L.  de  Milloue.  —  Public 
LeetureB  are  given  here  at  2.30  p.m.  on  Sun.  in  winter. 

Gronnd  Floor.  The  Rotunda  contains  a  few  Boman  scnlpturea  and 
masks  found  in  Antinoii  (Egypt). 

GAI.B&IB  dUna,  to  the  right:  *  Chinese  foUery,  —  Ist  Section:  Develop- 
ment of  the  manufacture.  Case  1.  Seladon  (the  earliest  specimens) ;  pale- 
green  porcelain  from  Kaukin  (15th  cent.).  Case  2.  Pottery  manufactured 
at  a  high  temperature  (marbling,  etc.).  Case  3.  ^Crackle' porcelain.  Ca^es4&5. 
Xodem  ware  from  Nankin  and  Canton.  Case  6.  Imitatious  of  ancient 
porcelain.  —  2nd  Section :  Development  of  colour.  Case  7.  Earthenware 
Cboaearos").  Gases  8-18.  White,  blue,  red  (oxide  of  copper)  and  gold,  green, 
violtft  Cmagnesium),  yellow  (cadmium),  and  pink  varieties.  —  8rd  Section : 
Ghronological  collection  fxoxD.  the  10th  to  the  end  of  the  18th  cent.,  the 
fiuit  dating  from  the  time  of  Ehien-Long  (1736-96;  Case  17). 

Galbbib  BoissiftBB,  to  the  left:  *  Japanese  Pottery  and  Bronze*^  arranged 
M  &r  as  possible  according  to  artists  and  provinces.  —  1st  and  2nd  Sections : 
Oase  1.  Oorean  pottery.  Case  2.  Articles  used  in  the  ceremony  of  making 
and  serving  tea.  The  ritual  of  this  ceremony  dates  from  the  i6th  cent., 
and  the  various  gestures  and  expressions  may  be  used  only  over  the  tea. 
In  the  centre  is  the  master  of  ceremunies  (Tschadjin).  Case  3.  Seto.  Case  4. 
Corea  and  Soma.  Cases  5-9.  Tokio,  Owari,  etc.  In  the  centre  are  a  bronze 
temple  lamp  and  large  lacquered  vases  from  the  province  of  Hizen.  — 
3rd  it  4th  Sections:  ^Dagoba*  or  bronze  reliquary,  of  the  16th  cent.;  vases 
and  kakemonos  (paintings  on  silk).  Cases  A-N,  in  the  centre,  contain  a 
collection  of  2700  'koros',  or  incenses  -  boxes.  —  5th  Section:  Case  13. 
Fayence  by  the  artist  Gonzaemon.  Cases  14  &  15.  Province  of  Kaga.  Case  IG. 
*Raku*  fayence;  large  lacquered  vase  in  fayence.  —  6th  Section:  modern 
ware  from  Kioto ;  Bizen  stoneware  in  imitation  of  bronze.  —  7th  Section : 
fayenee  made  by  ladies  and  other  amateurs;  Kioto  ware;  works  by  the 
potter  l^insei  (18th  cent.);  bronze  lamp. 

The  0>DBT,  reached  by  a  door  under  the  staircase,  contains  casts  of 
the  large  door  of  a  Bnddhist  temple  at  Sanchi. 

The  Galbbib  bdb  Coub  contains  Collections  from  Siam  and  Cambodia. 
Room  I.  Reproduction  of  an  elephant  (Siam);  Anamite  temple  and  palace ; 
Indian  processional  carriage.  —  Room  II.  Sandstone  statues  of  Brabmauic 
deities.  —  Room  IIL  Model  of  the  gate  of  the  citadel  of  Angkor-torn; 
cinerary  urns.  —  Boom  IV.  Collection  of  Buddha -padas  (footprints  of 
Buddha).  On  the  walls  of  the  last  three  rooms  is  the  cast  of  a  frie/.e  of 
a  royal  procession,  from  Angkor- vat. 

Firat  noor.    In  the  Rotunda  is  the  Library,    At  the  «nVtasi^  «x^  «!va>- 
tues  of  MoBdabn  and  Fugben,  the  two  chief  dlaclples  ol  '&w^^\x»i^  \x^ck^  ^ 
Uon  smd  aa  elephant;  and  two  reliquaries.    The  Pointings  in  \\x*"B.QWn^i!v. 


168  4.   MDSfiE  GUIMJET. 

and  following  galleriea,  by  Regameyt  represent  OrienUl  scenes,  religious 
ceremonies,  priests,  etc. 

The  Salle  des  Parsib  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  Galerie  d'l^na, 
contains  a  model  of  the  tower  of  the  dead,  at  Bombay,  in  which  the 
Parsees  (followers  of  Zoroaster)  expose  their  dead  to  be  devoured  by  vul- 
tures; groups  of  Parsees  at  the  ceremony  of  the  'Yasna*;  and  so  forth. 

Galesie  D'ltiNA,  to  the  right,  as  we  face  the  staircase:  ^Religions  of 
India  and  China,  —  Boom  I.  Vedic  religion,  Brahminism,  and  the  modern 
Ilinda  religion  (cult  of  Brahma,  Vishnu,  and  Siva,  the  triad  representing 
the  creating,  preserving,  and  destroying  principles).  Wood-carvings  from 
chariots  of  Brahma;  articles  used  in  religious  services;  representations  of 
temples.  In  the  centre  is  a  bronee  figure  of  Lakshmi ,  the  Indian  Venus 
(16th  cent.);  to  the  left,  Vishnu  in  black  basalt;  representations  of  temples. 
—  Boom  II.  Buddhism,  the  worship  of  Sakya-Kooni  or  Buddha,  the  *per- 
fect  8age\  1st  Section :  In  the  centre,  bronze  ^Statue  in  a  halo  of  flames. 
In  Case  8,  Ganessa,  god  of  science,  with  four  arms  and  an  elephant^s  head. 
Gases  9-11.  Statuettes,  vases,  goblets,  bronze  bells,  sacred  books,  and  other 
articles  used  in  worship.  Case  12.  Sect  of  the  Jains,  a  Buddhist  sect 
allied  to  Brahmanism.  Case  13.  Marionettes  and  ornaments  from  Java.  — 
2nd  Section:  to  the  left,  Lamaism,  or  Thibetan  Baddhism,  in  which  spirits, 
demons ,  and  magicians  play  a  prominent  part.  Case  14.  Handala ,  or 
representation  of  the  world  in  bronze-gilt.  Gases  15  and  16.  Statuettes: 
Jigsbyed,  a  god  with  ten  heads,  thirty-four  arms,  and  sixteen  legs,  holding 
a  woman  with  three  eyes;  Dakinis,  goddess  of  evil,  with  a  lion's  head 
and  fiery  hair.  To  the  right,  Beligions  of  China.  Case  17.  Buddha  in 
his  three  states  (birth,  penitence,  transfiguration);  Eonanyin,  coddess  of 
charity,  (with  twelve  arms.  Case  18.  *Dra wings  dating  from  1081,  illus- 
trating the  legend  of  Hariti,  the  devourer  of  children.  Case  2).  Trans- 
formations of  Kouaayin.  Case  21  and  3rd  Section:  Taoism,  or  Chinese 
pantheistic  idolatry;  statuettes,  MSS.,  coloured  drawings,  geomantic  com- 
passes (for  soothsaying).  Case  21.  Fine  bronze  statue  of  the  philosopher 
Lao-Tse,  founder  of  this  religion,  on  a  buffalo  (16th  cent.).  Cases  22,  28. 
Inferior  deities  and  spirits.  Case  24.  *Eleven  boxwood  statuettes  (18th  cent.), 
representing  celestial  deities;  paintings  on  silk;  Chinese  coins,  the  most  an- 
cient, in  the  shape  of  bells,  dating  from  2300 B.C.  Gase%.  Indian  deities. 
Case  26.  Beautiful  urns  used  in  ancestor-worship.  Case  27.  Confucianism, 
the  imperial  religion  in  China ,  involving  ancestor-worship.  —  Boom  HI. 
*  Salle  de  Jade  or  Gem  Boom,  with  numerous  articles  of  jade,  a  stone 
highly  prized  in  China,  many  of  which  come  from  the  imperial  Summer 
Palace  in  Pekin.  The  glass-cases  at  the  back  contain  sceptres  of  man- 
darins and  other  valuables. 

Galerie  sur  Codb.  Inio-China  ColleetioM.  Ist  Section:  Cambodia  (mixed 
lirahminism  and  Buddhism).  —  2nd  and  3rd  Sections:  Laos,  Burma,  Siam 
(pure  Buddhism),  Anam  and  Tonkin  (mixture  of  Taoism  and  Buddhism). 
Statues,  statuettes,  MSS.,  books,  musical  instruments,  fans,  coins,  etc.  — 
4th  Section:  Shamanism;  Siberian  Buddhism;  and  religion  of  the  island 
of  Amoy  (marionettes  for  mystery-performances).  —  Rotvinda.  *Model  of  a 
temple  in  Amoy;  religious  scenes;  marionette-theatre.  —  We  traverse  a 
room  with  specimens  of  Japanese  industrial  art:  combs,  comic  statuettes, 
medicine-boxes,  sabres  and  hilts,  lacquered  boxes,  etc.  —  We  now  pass 
through  the  Galerie  Boissiere,  in  order  to  begin  at  the  end  next  the  stairoMe. 

Galerie  BoissiAbb  :  *ReUgion»  of  Japan,  —  Boom  I.  1st  and  2nd  Sec- 
tions :  fine  statue  of  Ida-Ten,  god  of  prayer  and  peace.  Shintoism  (to  the 
left),  the  national  religion,  wMch  has  no  idols  but  only  symbols  of  the 
Supreme  Being,  and  the  temples  of  which  are  always  dosed;  Buddhism, 
six  different  sects;  statues,  statuettes,  priests'  vestments;  fine  bronze 
statuettes  and  kakemonos  (Cases  5  and  7).  At  the  end  of  the  2nd  aeetton 
are  two  statues  of  the  god  of  travellers,  and  two  bronze  vases,  with 
representations  of  the  death  and  ascension  of  Buddha.  —  Boom  II.  Model 
of  a  *Jfandara  or  pantheon,  with  nineteen  personages.  The  eentral  group 
represents  Dalniti,  the  highest  perfection,  and  beings  who  have  become 
ttnddhiia\  with  the  eye  of  wisdom  In  Ihe  ceulteot their  foreheads^  thoee 
to  the  right  and  left  represent  their  iTausfoTmallou  VnVaAanUiiik  ^fAAte  end 


4.  trogad£ro.  169 

it  the  Miration  of  souls  by  gentleneM  or  bv  violence.  Aronnd  are  brasiers, 
fountains,  gongs,  statue  of  Sakya-Mooni  dying,  other  figures  of  deities,  etc. 
By  the  walls  are  seven  large  statues  on  pedestals  and  twelve  flgares  in 
carved  wood,  representing  the  hours  of  the  day  and  the  signs  of  the  Zodiac. 
—  Boom  III.  1st  Section:  Japanese  and  Chinese  legends.  Curions  statuettes, 
often  of  admirable  execution:  Case  14,  aged  devil  In  the  guise  of  a  monk  j 
bell- bearer  with  long  legs  \  fox  as  priest;  in  Case  15,  the  philosopher  Tekiai 
breathing  forth  his  soul :  in  Case  17,  god  of  good  fortune.  ~~  Snd  Section : 
statue  of  Tiso,  guardian  aeity  of  children ;  historical  articles,  very  interest- 
ing atatnettes ;  lion  and  lioness  as  guardians  of  a  temple  (13th  cent.) ;  wood- 
en statue  of  a  pilgrim  (to  the  left).  —  Boom  IV.  Chapel  in  gilded  wood ; 
statues  of  Amida,  one  of  the  immortal  ^buddhasV  In  the  centre,  carious 
figure  of  the  philosopher  Dharma  rising  from  his  tomb.  Behind,  bronse 
statues  (18th  cent.)  including  the  philosopher  as  beggar  (the  little  fiag  in  his 
mouth  represents  his  soul);  men  with  long  legs  and  long  arms. 

Beoena  Floor.  The  Botdnda,  supported  by  caryatides,  contains  Paint- 
ings of  religious  scenes  in  China,  Ceylon,  and  elsewhere,  oy  Begamey. 

Galsbib  D^IftNA :  JajHinete  PctintingSy  drawings,  albums,  and  engravings 
Cchiefly  18th  and  19th  cent.).  Griueo-Bonum  AntiquitUs:  Statuettes  of 
fiaechuB,  Apollo,  Juno,  and  ^sculapius;  busts  (fine  Greek  head  by  the 
"^rlndow  to  the  right);  terracottas;  vases.  —  Galkbie  son  Coos.  Gallo- 
^omsn  bronze  vessels  from  Vienne;  gold  ornaments,  cameos,  and  in- 
taglios; Etruscan  vessels  in  black  clay;  votive  statuettes  in  bronze.  Ob- 
jects from  tombs  in  Cappadoeia  and  elsewhere.    Objects  from  Corea. 

Galbbib  BoiSBXtBB :  Egyptitm  AiUiquMes.  Coffins  with  mummies ;  oh- 
jeetf  fbuBd  In  graves;  r^roductions  of  sepulchral  paintings  (ca.  6(X)0  B.  C); 
marble  statue  of  Diana  of  Ephesus  (modern);  small  bronzes;  historical 
itttieles;  sacrificial  table;  statue  of  Isis;  Assyrian  cylinders  and  seals*, 
Alexandrian  deities. 


A  little  to  the  right  of  the  Mus^e  Guimet  the  Avenue  d'l^na 
pauei  the  Place  dea  Etats-Vnia  (PI.  R,  12;  1),  at  the  other  end  of 
'vhieh  is  a  bronze  *€hroup  of  Washington  and  Lafayette,  by  Bartholdi, 
presented  by  several  Americans  in  1895  in  commemoration  of  the  aid 
of  France  in  securing  the  independence  of  the  United  States. 

The  Ayenue  da  Trocad^ro  (p.  165)  and  the  Avenue  Kl^er, 
leading  from  the  Arc  de  PEtolle,  end  at  the  — 

Placb  j>v  Trooad^o  (PI.  R.  8,  9;  /;  Metropolitan  Railway, 
tt&mways  D,  J,  and  A£,  omnibus-line  B),  which  bears  the  name  of 
oae  of  the  forts  of  Cadiz  captured  by  the  French  in  1823.  The  Place, 
which  lies  behind  the  Palais  of  the  same  name,  contains  the  Mada- 
gascar section  of  the  Exhibition  of  1900. 

The  PalaiB  dn  Trocadiro  (PI.  R,  8 ;  i),  which  occupies  a  height 
above  the  Seine,  is  a  huge  building  in  the  Oriental  style,  designed 
by  Davioud  and  Bourdais  for  the  Exhibition  of  1878.  The  central 
portion  consists  of  a  circular  edifice  63  yds.  in  diameter  and  180  ft. 
in  height,  surmounted  by  a  dome ,  and  flanked  with  two  minarets 
270ft  high.  On  each  side  is  a  wing  in  the  form  of  a  curve,  220  yds. 
in  length,  so  that  the  whole  edifice  presents  the  appearance  of  an 
imposing  cresoent.  On  a  level  with  the  spring  of  the  dome  is  a  gallery 
adorned  with  thirty  statues  representing  the  arts  ^  %ciei\^^%  .^  ^\A 
various  industries.  The  dome  itself  is  8\iTmoui\tev5L  \i'^  ».  ^^Aq^^^X 
statue  of  Fsae,  by  A.  Aferci^. 


170  4.  TROCAD^RO. 

Concerts  are  often  given  in  the  elaborately -decorated  Salle  des  Fites^ 
which  contains  an  immense  organ  by  Cavaille-GoU  and  has  seats  for  6000 
persons  (adm.  at  other  times  by  order  from  the  secretary  of  the  Beaux- 
Arts,  Rue  de  Valois  3).  The  Oalleries  (cafe'-buflfet)  and  Balconies  command 
an  admirable  *View  of  Paris  (best  at  sunset).  Visitors  may  ascend  by  a 
Jilt  (50  c.,  on  Sun.  25  c.),  in  the  N.E.  tower. 

The  Palais  du  Trocadero  contains  important  museums  of  Comparative 
Sculpture,  (casts)  and  of  Ethnography.  —  The  *M usee  de  Sculpture  Coxnparee 
occupies  the  left  wing  and  part  of  the  right  wing  of  the  building.  The. 
casts  are  mainly  illustrative  of  the  chief  types  of  monumental  sculpture 
since  the  middle  ages,  but,  for  the  sake  of  comparison,  there  are  a  few 
casts  of  ancient  and  other  works  of  a  di/Terent  class.  The  sculptures  are. 
arranged  chronologically.  Explanatory  labels  are  attached  to  each  cast. 
Director,  M.  E.  Harnncourt.  Catalogue  (18d0)  1  fr. ;  Illustrated  Catalogue  of 
the  Monuments  of  the  14-15th  cent.  (1892)  4  fr.    Admission,  see  p.  56. 

The  Ethnographical  Museum  is  on  the  first  floor  of  the  central  building. 
To  reach  it  we  ascend  the  staircase  nearly  opposite  the  entrance  to  the 
Museum  of  Casts.  Explanatory  labels.  Directors,  MM.  Ilamy  and  Landfin. 
Admission,  see  p.  56.  —  The  staircase  is  embellished  with  fine  stained- 
glass  windows.  The  museum  consists  mainly  of  objects  from  America,  the 
islands  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  Africa,  besides  specimens  from  the  N.  and 
E.  of  Europe.  The  collection  of  French  provincial  costumes,  in  the  room 
to  the  right,  is  highly  interesting. 

The  Pabc  du  Tbocad^o  is  not  large ,  but  it  is  tastefully  laid 
out  and  well  kept  up,  though  at  present  it  has  been  greatly  altered 
for  the  Colonial  Section  of  the  Exhibition  of  1900.  The  terrace  in 
front  of  the  central  building  of  the  Palais  is  embellished  with  six 
figures  in  gilded  bronze:  Europe,  by  Schoenewerkj  Asia  by  Fcdguih'e, 
Africa  by  Delaplanche^  N.  America  by  Hiolle,  S.  America  by  Millety 
and  Australia  by  Moreau,  Below  the  terrace  gushes  forth  &  large 
'*''Gascadb,  which  descends  to  a  huge  basin,  196  ft.  in  diameter,  sor- 
rounded  by  a  bull,  a  horse,  an  elephant,  and  a  rhinoceros  in  bronze, 
by  Cam  J  Bouillardj  Frimietj  and  Jaequemart.  Under  the  arches 
flanking  the  cascade  are  allegorical  figures  of  Water,  by  Cavalier, 
and  Air,  by  Thorruis.  —  At  the  corner  of  the  Eue  Lendtre  is  a  Pano- 
rama of  the  Battle  of  Jena  ^  by  Poilpot,  with  11  dioramic  views  of 
scenes  of  the  Revolution,  the  Consulate,  and  the  Empire. 

Below  the  middle  of  the  park  the  Seine  is  crossed  by  the  Font 
dl^na  (PI.  R,  8  -,  /),  constructed  in  1809-13  to  commemorate  the 
victory  of  that  name  (1806)  and  enlarged  in  1900.  It  is  adorned 
with  eagles  and  with  four  colossal  horse-tamers  (Greek ,  Roman, 
Gaul,  and  Arab).  Beyond  the  bridge  is  the  Champ-de^Man  (p.  282), 
with  the  Eiffel  Tower,  the  Grande  Roue,  and  various  buildings  con- 
structed for  the  Exhibition  of  1900. 


II.  FA88Y  AND  ATJTETJIL  (B0I8  DE  BOTJLOOHS). 

Fassy,  in  which  the  Trocadero  is  situated,  is  one  of  the  com- 
munes annexed  to  Paris  in  1860.  Its  lofty  and  healthy  sitnation 
has  long  made  it  a  favourite  place  of  residence,  and  it  oontalnB 
numeroua  handsome  private  mansions  near  the  Bois  and  the  Tzoea- 
fi^ro,  many  of  them  built  since  the  Uat  Wo  &^X^\\\fi(Qa  liote. 


4.   PASSY.  171 

The  Avenue  Henri  Mabtin  (PI.  R,  8,  9,  6 ;  tramway  N),  con- 
tinuing  the  Avenue  da  Tiocad^ro,  leads  stiaight  from  the  Trocadero 
to  the  Bois. 

On  the  height  to  the  left,  near  the  palace,  ia  the  Cemetery  of  Fassy 
(PI.  R,  8}  /J,  with  some  fine  monuments.  Entrance  in  the  Rue  des  Re- 
servoirs, reached  by  ascending  a  flight  of  steps  from  the  Place  da  Trocadero. 
Immediately  to  the  right,  inside,  is  the  mausoleum  of  Marie  Bashkiriseff 
(d.  1884),  hy  Eadle  Bastiea-Lepage,  the  exterior  of  which  is  covered  with 
allegorical  and  other  details  in  doubtful  taste.  Within  is  a  good  bust  of  Mile. 
Bashkirtseff,  with  a  MS.  vol.  of  her  diary,   her  palette,  and  other  relics. 

The  Avenue  Henri  Martin  passes  near  the  l/ycie  Janson  de  Sadly 
(on  the  right;  2000  pupils)  and,  a  little  farther  on,  the  Mairie  of  the 
16ih  Arrondissement  (on  the  left),  the  latter  of  which  contains  paint- 
ings by  Gh.  Ghauvin.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  between  this  Avenue 
and  the  Avenue  Victor  Hugo,  is  a  square  with  a  Statue  ofLamartine 
(1790-1869),  in  hronze,  hy  Vasselot,  adjoining  which  Is  the  copious 
ArUiian  Well  of  Fassy  (covered).  At  the  point  where  these  avenues 
meet,  a  few  yards  farther  on,  is  the  Avenue  du  Trocadero  Station 
(PI.  R,  6)  of  the  Ghemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture. 

At  this  point  the  Liffne  du  Champ-de-Mars  diverges  to  the  left.  It  is 
mostly  underground,  and  passes  under  the  heights  of  Passy  by  means  of 
a  covered  gallery  and  two  tunnels  (275,  375,  and  300  yds.  in  length). 
There  are  stations  in  the  Rue  Boulainvillers  (PI.  B,  5),  between  the  tunnels, 
and  on  the  quay  of  the  right  bank.  The  line  then  crosses  the  Seine  to 
the  lie  de*  Cygnesy  by  the  bridges  mentioned  on  p.  172,  and  goes  on  alim^ 
the  Ligrne  des  Moulineaux  to  the  Champ-de-Mars  (p.  282). 

In  the  Rue  Singer,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  Raymond  (PI.  R,  5),  is  a 
tablet  with  an  inscription  to  the  effect  that  Benjamin  Franklin  livt^d  here 
in  1777-86,  when  envoy  to  France  ,  and  placed  on  the  house  the  first 
lightning  conductor  ever  made  in  I'rance. 

The  Porte  de  la  Muettej  not  far  from  the  great  lake  (p.  IGIJ,  is 
one  of  the  chief  entrances  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  on  this  side.  La 
Muette  (PI.  B,  5)  is  a  relic  of  a  former  royal  hunting-lodge,  where 
there  was  perhaps  a  kennel  of  hounds  (*muette' for  ^meute').  Its 
pretty  park  is  now  private  property  and  closed  to  the  public. 

To  the  S.W.  is  the  Ranelagh,  a  triangular  grass-plot  occupying 
the  site  of  the  public  establishment  of  that  name,  which,  like  its 
London  namesake ,  was  famous  at  the  end  of  last  century  for  its 
banquets,  masquerades,  and  fetes.  Adjacent  are  the  station  of  the 
Ghemin  de  Fer  de  Geinture  and  the  office  of  the  tramways,  near 
which  is  the  handsome  Monument  of  La  Fontaine  (1621-95),  with 
Mb  bust,  &  statue  of  Fame,  and  figures  of  the  fabulist's  favourite 
animals,  in  bronze,  by  DumiUtre.  Adjacent,  to  the  left,  a  statue 
of  Cain  by  CaHU;  to  the  right,  a  Fisherman,  with  the  head  and  the 
lyre  of  Orpheus,  by  Longepied;  *Fugit  Amor',  hy  Dame ,  etc.  A 
military  band  plays  here  on  Thurs.  in  summer  (see  p.  38). 

Autenil,  annexed,  like  Passy,  to  Paris  in  1860,  a  quiet  suburban 
district  -with  numerous  villas,  lies  to  the  S.AV.,  between  the  Seine 
and  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.   A  pleasant  route  leads  thither  ft^isi  \.V& 
Ranelagh,  passing  between  the  lakes  in  the  Bois  de'BouXo^wfe^A^V^ 
and  the  neecoarse  ofAuteuil  (p.  161),  Itmav  aVao  \ie  Tft«.^Xi^^  i^««^ 


172  5.   BOUBSE  D£  COMMERCE. 

the  station  of  Passy  vU  the  handsome  Rue  Mosart  (1 M. ;  PI.  R,  5, 4), 
which  is  traveised  by  a  tramway.  From  the  station  of  Auteuil,  near 
the  Bois  (PI.  R,  1),  tramways  run  to  the  Madeleine,  St.  Solpice, 
and  Boulogne  (p.  293).  Here  also  begins  the  immense  *  Viaduct 
of  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture,  1 V4M.  long,  constructed  through- 
out of  masonry,  with  several  galleries  for  foot-passengers  beneath 
the  line,  and  234  arches.  It  ends  with  the  •Pent  d'Auteuil  (PI.  G,  4), 
where  the  viaduct  proper  rises  between  two  carriage-roads. 

In  the  Rue  d'Auteuil  rises  the  Romanesque  church  of  Notre 
Dame  d'Auteuil,  restored  in  1877-81  by  Vaudremer.  To  the  right 
is  the  Maison  Chardon-Lagachey  and  behind  are  the  handsome  In- 
stitution 8te.  Pirine  and  the  Maiaon  Rossini,  three  charitable  houses. 
The  Pont  Hirabeau  (PI.  R,  4) ,  an  iron  bridge  with  statues  by  In- 
jalbert  (1895-97),  crosses  the  Seine  at  the  end  of  the  Rue  Mirabeau. 
The  central  arch  has  a  span  of  over  300  feet. 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  Porte  d'Auteuil,  on  the  S.  margin  of  the  Bois  de 
Boulogne,  lies  the  Etablissement  Hortieole  or  Flewiste,  a  large  municipal 
nuriery- garden  fjr  the  supply  of  plants  for  the  public  promenades  of 
Paris  (open  daily,  1-6,  in  the  second  half  of  April,  when  the  azaleas  are 
in  blossom )  at  other  times  by  permission  of  the  director,  M.  Bouvard, 
Hotel  de  Ville). 


We  may  return  from  Anteuil  either  bv  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Cein- 

(see  the  Appz.,   p.  34),   by  tramway  (p.  160),  or  by  steamer  (Appx. 

p.  36).  —  At  the  lower  end  of  the  He  des  Cygne$y  on  the  Pont  d€  Orenelie 


(PI.   R,  4,   7),  is  a  reduced  copy  in  bronze  of  the  statue  of  Liberty  en- 
lightening the  World,  by  Bartholdi,  in  New  York  Harbour. 

5.  Halles  Centrales,  Conservatoire  des  Arts  et 
Metiers,  and  Pire-Lachaise. 

The  best  time  to  visit  the  Halles  Centrales  is  early  in  the  morning. 
For  this  walk  a  day  should  be  chosen  on  which  the  Conservatoire  des 
Arts  et  Metiers  is  open  (i.e.  Sun.,  Tues.,  or  Thurs.).  —  Luncheon  may 
be  taken  at  one  of  the  following  restaurants:  BouUlons  Duval,  Rue  de 
Turbigo  3  (near  the  Halles  Centrales),  Bue  de  Turbigo  46  (near  the  Bue 
St.  Martin),  and  Place  de  la  R^publique;  Bouvalet,  Boul.  da  Temple  29-31; 
J)u  Cercle  and  De*  Natiom^  Boul.  St.  Martin  15  and  47,  8.  side;  LeeomU, 
Bue  de  Bondy  48  (N.  side  of  the  Boul.  St.  Martin);  Plat-d' Etain ,  Bue  St. 
Martin  326,  near  the  Conservatoire  des  Arts  et  M^tierj. 

I.    FBOM  THE  FALAIS-BOYAL  TO  TEE  HALLES  0SHTRALX8. 

ST.  ETJ8TA0HE. 
Palais-Royal,  p.  60.   Following  the  Rne  de  Rivoli  or  the  Rue 
St.  Honoi^  to  the  E. ,  we  soon  reach  the  newer  part  of  the  Bue  du 
Louvre  (PI.  R,  20, 21 ;  III),  which  was  prolonged  to  the  N.  In  1888 
as  far  as  the  Rue  Etienne  Marcel  and  the  H6tel  des  Postes  (p.  173). 
In  a  circular  space  to  the  right  rises  the  Bonne  de  Oommeree 
(PI.  R,  20 ;  III),  formerly  the  Halle  au  BU  or  corn-exchange,  con- 
verted to  its  present  use  in  1888-89  by  Blondel,    The  nucleus  is 
s  rotunda,  46  yds.  in  diameter,  106  ft.  high,  with  an  iron  roof, 
originally  built  in  1662,  burnt  doww  in  1802,  and  rebuilt  in  1811. 
fronting  the  Rue  du  Louvre  is  a  new  iacj^i^e,  '^iV^lww  Q(t^\.  flol- 


0.    HALLES  CENTRALES.  173 

umns,  65  ft.  high,  above  which  is  a  pediment  with  sculptures,  by 
Croisyj  representing  Paris,  Trade,  Industry,  Art,  and  Architecture. 
The  interior  of  the  dome  is  embellished  with  frescoes  of  East, 
West,  North,  and  South,  by  Clairiny  Luminait^  Laugie,  and  Lueat. 
The  exchange  Is  open  daily,  except  Sun. ,  ttom  9  to  6  (to  7  on  Wed. ; 
bosiness-hoorB  l-o).  —  In  front,  on  the  other  side  of  the  street,  is 
a  fluted  Doric  column,  100  ft.  high  and  10  ft.  in  diameter,  erected 
in  1672  by  order  of  Catherine  de  Mtfdicis,  for  the  purpose,  it  is  said, 
of  astrological  observations. —  Behind  the  Bourse  de  Commerce 
are  the  Halles  Centrales  (see  below). 

The  H6tel  det  FoBtet  (PI.  R,  21 ;  III),  rebuilt  in  1880-84,  to 
the  right  of  the  Bue  dn  Louvre,  a  little  farther  on,  cannot  lay  claim 
to  great  architectural  importance.  It  is,  however,  of  immense  size, 
oceupying  the  whole  of  the  area  enclosed  by  the  Rue  Etienne-Marcel 
on  the  N.,  the  Rue  du  Louvre  on  the  W.,  the  Rue  Gutenberg  on 
the  S.,  and  the  Rue  Jean -Jacques-Rousseau  on  the  E.  The  main 
pnblio  entrance  is  in  the  Rue  du  Louvre.  Most  of  the  offices  in 
diieot  communication  with  the  public  are  united  in  a  large  colon- 
nade or  hall;  the  Poste  Restante  and  telegraph  offices  are  in  a 
separate  room,  to  the  right.  Behind  is  the  loading-yard,  used  by 
the  post- vehicles;  the  sunk  floor  accommodates  the  stamping  offices, 
the  apparatus  for  the  pneumatic  post,  and  the  stables.  On  the  first 
floor  are  the  sorting  and  distributing  offices;  on  the  second,  the 
diligence  offices  and  official  dwellings;  and  on  tho  third,  tho 
archives  and  stores.  —  Postal  regulations,  etc.,  see  p.  28. 

In  the  adjacent  Rue  Gutenberg  is  the  Hdtel  des  TSUphones, 
built  of  glazed  bricks  like  those  of  the  monuments  from  Susiana  and 
Chaldsa  in  the  Louvre  (p.  145).  —  Place  des  Victoircs,  etc.,  sec 
p.  192. 

The  *Hallei  Centrales  (^Pl.  R,  20,  23;  III),  a  vast  structure, 
chiefly  of  iron ,  and  covered  with  zinc ,  erected  by  the  architect 
Baltafd(6. 1874),  are  reached  hence  vi4  the  Rue  Coquillidre,  which 
diverges  to  the  left  from  the  Rue  du  Louvre  a  little  farther 
down.  These  *halls*  consist  of  twelve  pavilions,  between  which  run 
covered  streets,  48  ft.  wide  and  48  ft.  in  height,  and  they  are  inter- 
sected by  a  boulevard  105  ft.  in  width,  descending  towards  the  Rue 
de  Rivoli.  The  whole  market  covers  an  area  of  22  acres.  Under  the 
Halles  are  cellars  of  similar  area  and  12  ft.  high,  chiefly  used  for 
the  storage  of  goods,  etc.;  those  under  the  pavilion  next  the  Rno 
Berger  contain  municipal  electric  motors.  The  front  pavilions  are 
occupied  by  retail-dealers,  those  behind  by  wholesale  merchants, 
whose  business  also  extends  into  the  neighbouring  streets  in  tho 
early  morning-hours. 

The  provisions  for  the  daily  market  begin  to  arrive  on  the  previons 
evening,  and  by  daybreak  the  market  is  fully  stocked.    It  is  e8Uvcv&.VA^ 
that  about  16,000  vehicles  are  employed  in  this  txai^c.    T\ie  ^^«i^  M 
auction  to  wholesale  deaJera  last  from  3  till  8  a.m.  Vn  FUTntneT  VN-^  vTvV^T>^.^-x^ 
after  whlei  tberetaiJ  frafffc  begins.    About  500,000  it.  \)W  ^vj  %iT<s.  T<i*\\^^^ 


174  5.   ST.  EUSTACHB. 

in  the  wholesale  market  alone.  The  supplies,  many  of  which  come  from 
Algeria,  inclnde  meat,  fish,  poultry,  game,  oysters,  vegetahlef,  fruit, 
butter,  and  cheese.  The  show  of  cut  flowers,  especially  in  summer,  is  a 
charming  sight. 

The  produce  annually  brought  to  the  Halles  Centrales  represents  but 
a  fraction  of  the  food  consumed  in  Paris,  as  not  only  are  there  several  other 
^Halles",  but  many  dealers  import  their  own  goods  without  the  interrention 
of  a  market.  According  to  the  most  recent  calculations  the  average  annual 
consumption  per  head  of  the  population  amounts  to  926  lbs.  of  bread,  188 
quarts  of  wine,  etc.,  187  lbs.  of  meat,  and  23  lbs.  of  fish.  Reckoning  the 
population  at  2,536,800,  we  find  that  this  amounts  in  round  numbers  to 
824,400,000  lbs.  of  bread,  456,000,000  quarts  of  wine,  538,700,000  lbs.  of 
meat,  and  67,500,000  lbs.  of  fish,  of  the  value  of  fully  a  milliard  of  francs. 
Thus  the  daily  bill  of  Paris  for  meat,  wine,  and  bread  alone  amounts  to 
about  3  million  francs  or  120,0001. 


The  ^Church  of  St.  Enstache  (PL  R,  21 ,  20 ;  IJl^,  situated  at  the 
Pointe  SLEustache,  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Halles  Centrales  and  at  the 
end  of  the  Rue  Montmartre  and  Rue  de  Turbigo,  is  one  of  the  most 
important  churches  in  Paris.  It  was  erected  in  1532-1642,  and 
presents  a  strange  mixture  of  degenerate  Gothic  and  Renaissance 
architecture.  The  disposition  of  the  building  is  that  of  a  Gothic 
church  of  the  15th  cent.,  but  the  arches  are  round  instead  of  pointed, 
the  buttresses  are  in  the  form  of  composite  pilasters,  and  the  piU&rs 
consist  of  columns  of  different  orders  placed  one  above  another.  The 
ornamentation  is  in  the  Renaissance  style.  The  ponderous  W.  portal, 
with  its  Ionic  and  Doric  columns,  was  added  in  1756.  The  funeral 
rites  of  Mirabeau  were  solemnised  in  1791  in  this  church,  from 
which  the  body  was  conveyed  to  the  Pantheon;  and  here  was  cel- 
ebrated the  Feast  of  Reason  in  1793.  In  1795  the  church  was  turned 
into  a  temple  of  agriculture. 

The  Imtbbiob  (entrance  by  the  chief  portal  or  by  a  side-door  near  the 
Rue  Montmartre)  consists  of  a  graceful  and  lofty  nave  and  double  aisles, 
and  is  348  ft.  in  length,  144  ft.  in  width,  and  108  fl.  in  height.  The  cha- 
pels, entirely  covered  with  painting,  contain  some  flue  ^'Frescoes,  iUiuitrai> 
ing  the  history  of  the  saints  to  whom  they  are  dedicated.  The  paintings 
in  the  4th  and  5th  chapels  to  the  right  are  by  O^urlier  and  Magimel.  The 
former  also  contains  a  marble  relief  of  the  Marriage  of  the  Vir^,  by  7W- 
quetiy  and  the  latter  an  Ecce  Homo  by  Etex  and  a  figure  of  Beaignatlon  by 
Chatrouste,  —  In  the  S.  transept  are  bas-reliefs  by  Deveri^  six  statnea  of 
Apostles  by  Dehay^  and  frescoes  by  Signol.  —  Farther  on  are  five  chapels 
adorned  by  LarivUre^  Vavgelet,  Lazerges,  Comu^  Pil*,  Datntry^  Bi€nn<mryy 
and  Signol.  —  The  Chapelle  de  la  Vierge^  which  we  next  reach,  was  added 
at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  Over  the  altar  is  a  fine  statue 
of  the  Virgin  by  Pigalle  (d.  1785).  The  frescoes  are  by  Couture  (d.  1879). 
—  The  next  chapel,  with  frescoes  by  Bitard^  contains  the  monument  of 
Colbert  (d.  1683),  the  able  minister  of  finance  of  Louis  XIY.,  eonaistlBc 
of  a  sarcophagus  of  black  marble ,  with  a  kneeling  figure  of  Colbert  in 
white  marble,  by  Coyxevox  (d.  1720).  At  one  end  is  a  statue  of  Abnndaace 
by  Coyzevox^  at  the  other  end  one  of  Religion  by  Tuhy  (d.  1700).  —  The 
five  other  chapels  flanking  the  choir  contain  frescoes  by  DslontM,  Bmu9t 
(early  frescoes  restored),  Perrut^  Pichon  (St.  Genevieve),  and  Filix  Barrioi 
(St.  I.ouis).  —  The  short  N.  transept  is  also  adorned  with  bas-reliefiB 
and  frescoes  by  the  same  masters  as  those  in  the  8.  transept,  and  statues 
of  Apostles  by  Crank  and  JTusion.  Above  a  b^nitier  is  a  fine  gronp  of 
Pope  AJexBDder  I.,  by  whom  the  use  of  holy  water  was  iBtrodiieea.  — > 
Handaome  N.  portal^  which  faces  &  lane  \«a.^Vii%  \a  \S)A  B.ue  Moatmartre. 
fejrond  the  transept  is  the  chapel  of  8t.Eu8UCi\ift^N?\i«i'W*ft^^«««aip«wal 


6.    CONSERVATOIRE  DE8  ARTS  ET  METIERS.   175 

ander  the  Emp.  Titus,  with  frescoes  by  Lt  H4naff.    Lastly,  four  chapels 
with  paintings  by  Baatt  (restorations),  Rietener^  Marquis,  and  Olaite. 

The  high-altar  in  white  marble,  the  modem  pulpit  in  carved  wood 

by  MoiMjf  and  Fyanety  the  woodwork  of  the  ^banc  d'oeuvre"  (stalls),  and  the 

Organ  (one  of  the  best  instruments  in  Paris)  are  also  worthy  of  note. 

St.  Eustache  is  perhaps  the  leading  church  in  Paris  for  ReUgiout  Mtuic^ 

wldeh  is  performed  with  the  aid  of  an  orchestra  on  important  festivals. 

The  Halles  occupy  the  old  March^  des  Innocents,  which  was 
once  adorned  wltli  the  Fontaine  des  Innocents,  a  tasteful  Renais- 
sance work  by  Pierre  Leseot,  but  frequently  altered.  The  fountain 
now  occupies  the  centre  of  a  square  to  the  S.E.  (PI.  R,  23;  717),  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Halles.  It  originally  stood  with  its  back  to  the 
church  of  the  Innocents  (demolished  in  1783),  and  had  three  arches 
only.  It  now  presents  the  form  of  a  square  pavilion,  the  S.  side, 
as  well  as  the  six  steps  of  the  base,  having  been  added.  The  older 
figures  of  Naiads  on  the  piers  of  the  arches  are  by  Jean  Goujon^ 
the  three  new  Naiads  by  Pajou.  Above  are  a  rich  entablature  and 
an  attic  story  with  reliefs  by  different  artists. 

U.  FKOM  THE  HALLES  OSNTBALES  TO  THE  OONSEBVATOIBE  SES 
A&T8  ET  M^TIEBB  AND  THE  PLACE  DE  LA  B^FUBLIQUE. 

The  Bue  de  Turbigo  (PI.  R,  21 ;  ///),  a  handsome  new  street 
about  3/4  M.  long,  beginning  at  the  Pointe  St,  EustocAe,  at  the  end 
of  the  Rue  Montmartre,  leads  to  the  Place  de  la  IWpublique  (p.  74). 
It  soon  crosses  the  Rue  Etienne-Marcel  (p.  172),  in  which  rises  the 
Towr  de  Jean  sans  Peur^  a  fine  specimen  of  the  defensive  archl- 
teetore  of  the  15th  century.  This  tower,  with  its  pinnacles  and 
pointed  aiches,  once  belonged  to  the  H6tel  de  Bourgogne,  where 
the  Gonfrdres  de  la  Passion  established  their  theatre  In  1548.  Cor- 
neille's  *Cid'  and  Racine^s  *Andromaque'  and  'Phfedre'  were  hero 
performed  for  the  first  time.  A  handsome  spiral  staircase  in  the  in- 
terior leads  to  the  top.   (Apply  at  23  Rue  Tiquetonne,  at  the  back.) 

Farther  on ,  the  Rue  de  Turbigo  crosses  the  Boulevard  de  Si- 
baitopol^  which  we  follow  to  the  left.  At  the  end  of  a  side-street, 
on  the  right,  rises  St.  Nicolas-des- Champs  (p.  178).  Farther  on, 
also  on  the  right  side  of  the  boulevard,  is  the  pleasant  Squarb  dbs 
Abts  bt  M^tiebs  (PI.  R,  24;  /I/).  In  its  centre  rises  a  column 
surmounted  by  a  Victory  in  bronze,  by  Crauk^  with  a  pedestal  bearing 
the  names  of  the  Crimean  victories.  On  each  side  are  small  basins, 
adorned  with  bronze  figures  of  Agriculture  and  Industry,  by  Oumeryy 
and  Commerce  and  the  Arts,  by  Ottin,  On  the  S.  side  of  the  square 
is  the  Thidtre  de  la  QatU  (p.  34). 

The  *C<miervatoire  des  Arts  et  Metiers  (PI.  R,  24;  ///),  the 
great  Industrial  museum  of  Paris  and  also  important  as  a  teaching 
Institution,  was  founded  by  decree  of  the  Convention  in  1794.  The 
first  idea  of  such  an  institution  is  attributed  to  De«c.^.T\.^^  ^\)S^^- 
1650),  and  it  was  j>ut  in  practice  by  the  cele\)ia.te^  eii^Aiv^eTL  Va-u.- 
tmuon,  who  bequeathed  to  the  state  in  1783  "his  coWecXAft^  'Ckl  'saa.- 


176     5.    CONSERVATOIRE  DES  ARTS  ET  MfiTIERS. 

chines,  instruments,  and  tools,  for  the  instruction  of  the  working 
classes. 

Since  1799  the  collection  has  occupied  the  former  Glnniac  iV/ory 
ofSU  Martin  dea  Champa,  bnilt  in  1060  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  abbey 
and  seonlarized  in  1789.  The  building,  thougli  restored,  altered,  and 
completed  in  1845,  is  not  yet  quite  disengaged  from  other  edifices. 
The  former  church  and  refectory  are  the  most  interesting  of  the  extant 
ancient  parts.  A  small  portion  of  the  fortified  enceinte  (12th  cent.) 
still  stands  on  the  N.,  but  can  hardly  be  seen ;  one  of  its  towers  has 
boen  re-erected  to  the  left  of  the  facade  towards  the  Rue  St.  Martin. 
Beside  this  tower  is  the  Fontaine  du  VertboiSy  dating  from  1712. 
The  facade  of  the  former  Ckurch^  an  interesting  structure  of  the 
ll-13th  cent.,  to  the  S.,  may  be  seen  from  the  Rue  St.  Martin, 
through  the  railing.  In  front  of  it  is  the  Monument  ofBouadngauU 
(1802-1887),  the  chemist  and  agricultural  writer,  consisting  of  a 
bust  on  a  pedestal  preceded  by  bronze  statues  of  Science  and  an 
Agriculturalist,  by  Dalou.  The  old  Refectory  (13th  cent.),  to  the 
right  of  the  main  court,  a  beautiful  Gothic  hall  with  aisles,  is 
attributed  to  Pierre  de  Montereau,  the  architect  of  the  Sainte-Gba- 
pelle  (p.  221).  The  Library  (over  40,000  vols.)  which  it  eontaini 
is  open  on  Sun.,  10-3,  and  on  weekdays,  except  Men.  and  hoUdayi, 
10-3  and  7.30-10. 

The  projecting  edifice  with  a  platform,  in  the  Cour  d'Honneur, 
ill  which  is  the  entrance  to  the  *Museum,  is  a  handsome  modem 
addition,  but  so  planned  that  the  yisitor  has  to  ascend  twenty-two 
steps  and  descend  twenty -four  before  reaching  the  groundfloor. 
Beside  the  first  staircase,  to  the  right,  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Papin 
(1647-1714),  discoverer  of  the  elasticity  of  steam,  by  Millet ;  to  the 
left,  one  of  Nie.  Leblanc  (1742-1806),  tho  inventor  of  the  process 
of  extracting  soda  from  sea-salt,  by  Hiolle. 

Admission,  see  p.  56.  Sticks  and  umbrellas  need  not  be  left. — 
The  exhibits  ("upwards  of  14,000)  are  divided  into  24  categories, 
distinguished  by  capital  letters,  each  category  embracing  sereral 
sub-divisions  denoted  by  small  letters.  All  the  articles  hear  expla- 
natory labels.  The  accompanying  plan  will  enable  the  viBltor  to 
choose  his  own  course;  and  only  the  main  divisions  of  each  part 
are  here  mentioned.  —  Director,  M.  G.  Tresca. 

Ground  Floor.  —  The  Vkstibulb,  or  ^SaUe  de  VEcho\  contains 
a  model  of  the  screw-steamer  'Danube'  (1855),  and  a  fine  collection 
of  Siberian  jade  and  graphite,  illustrating  the  numerous  iodustrial 
applications  of  the  latter  mineral.  The  acoustic  properties  of  the 
Salle  de  VEcho  resemble  those  of  the  Whispering  Gallery  at  Si 
Paul's  in  London :  words  spoken  quite  softly  in  one  comer  of  the 
saloon  are  distinctly  audible  in  the  angle  diagonally  opposite. 

West  Wing  (Mining  und  Metallurgy),  Sallb  1.  Modeb  of  mines; 
toolsj  machinery,  and  appatatuft  ?ot  ftiivking  minet.  Round  the  TOOiDf 
fpecimens  of  minerals.  —  Sxi.iiT^^i^totVfeT^^^.^l^iSX'^lV  Model  of 


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6.   CONSERVATOIRE  DES  ARTS  ET  METIERS.      177 

the  iron-works  of  Gieusot;  models  of  artillery,  tuiret-forts,  etc.  — 
Sallb  3  (next  S.  1).  Models  of  iron-works  and  foundries;  cabinets 
containing  ore,  raw  iron,  etc.  —  Sallb  4.  Apparatus  for  forging 
and  welding  iron.  —  Sallb  5  (parallel  to  S.  3).  Iron  and  steel 
rolling  and  forging.  —  Sallb  6.  Models  of  workshops  of  various 
kinds.  —  Sallb  7  (next  S.  4).    Wood  Industries. 

A  passage,  with  agricnltnral  implements,  leads  to  the  — 

FoBMEB  Ohubch  (Grande  Salle  des  Machines).  In  the  nave  are 
yarlous  large  machines,  printing-machines,  cycles;  also  a  diagram 
showing  the  coal-prodnction  of  France  in  1789-1888.  Opposite  the 
entrance  are  a  pendulum  invented  by  Foucault,  showing  the  move- 
ment of  tbe  earth  on  its  own  axis,  and  a  glass  globe  about  5  ft.  in 
diameter.  In  the  choir,  Cugnot's  steam-carriage  (1770) ;  ploughs. 

South  Gallebt  (to  the  right  as  we  return).  Agriculture.  Valu- 
•  able  collection  of  ploughs  and  other  agricultural  implements ;  heads 
of  cattle ;  anatomical  specimens ;  samples  of  grain  and  fruit. 

East  Wing.  This  whole  wing,  known  as  the  *Galeries  Vau- 
canson',  contains  models  of  buildings  and  technical  constructions  of 
all  kinds  (Constructions  Civiles),  —  Room  1,  Agricultural  buildings 
and  apparatus ;  heating  and  ventilating  apparatus ;  baths.  —  Central 
Room  II.  Social  economy,  provident  institutions.  —  Room  III. 
Models  of  locks  and  harbours ;  railway  and  bridge  construction ;  large 
model  of  the  Viaduct  of  Garabit  (Cantal).  —  Room  IV.  Excavating 
machines  and  dredgers;  cranes;  models  of  the  bridge  of  El  Cinca  in 
Spain  and  of  two  lighthouses. 

NoBTH  Galleby.  Several  rooms  and  a  parallel  corridor  are  occu- 
pied by  building  materials,  tools,  and  models  of  factories.  —  Two 
rooms  are  devoted  to  geometry  and  drawing  (Geomitrie  descriptive). 
—  The  comer  room  and  the  N.  portion  of  the  adjoining  — 

West  Wing  (Geodesy,  Astronomy,  and  Horology)  are  devoted  to 
instruments  of  precision,  chronometers,  clocks,  and  watches.  —  The 
last  room,  on  a  lower  level,  contains  Weights  and  Measures,  ancient 
and  modem,  French  and  foreign,  —  We  now  regain  the  Salle  de 
TEcho  (p.  176),  and  ascend  the  staircase  to  the  — 

First  Floor.  Centbal  Room,  or  Salle  d'Honneur,  at  the  top  of 
the  staircase.  Apparatus  made  by  Lavoisier,  the  chemist,  or  used 
in  his  laboratory :  original  machines  and  apparatus. 

West  Wing  (to  the  right).  Mechanical  Recipients  of  force,  such 
as  wind-mills,  water-wheels,  turbines,  etc.  Steam  Engines  and  parts 
of  steam- machines.  Railway  Collection,  including  a  model  of  the 
first  locomotive  with  a  tubular  boiler,  constmcted  by  Marc  S^guiu 
in  1827,  —  Last  Room :  Mechanics. 

The  staircase  at  the  S.  end  of  this  wing  ascends  to  two  new  rooms  on 
the  Second  Floor,  containing  lamps,  electric  machines,  and  the  like. 

South  Wing.  General  Physics,    Apparatus  for  the  investigation 
of  fluid  and  gaseous  bodies  •,  Electricity,  Magnetism,  Heal,  —  '^^q^tsv 
at  the  end :  Maeorohgy, 

Bamdmmsx.  Paris.  Uth  Edit.  ^X 


1  78     5.    CONSERVATOIRE  DES  ARTS  ET  MlfeTDERS. 

East  Wing  ('Galeries  Vaucanson').  Room  I.  (Physiea).  Acoustics 
and  Optics;  farther  on,  Telegraphy,  Telephones.  —  Central  Room  II. 
Turning-lathes  and  specimens  of  turned  work.  Several  machines  by 
Vaucanson.  —  Room  III.  Tools  and  Machine  Tools;  motors,  pumps, 
hydraulic  machines.    The  last  room  on  this  side  and  the  — 

NoKTH  Wing  (Verrerie,  Ciramique)  are  devoted  to  Olass  and 
Pottery,  In  Room  III  are  the  *Coupe  de  Travail',  a  large  vase  in  Sevres 
porcelain  designed  by  Di^terle,  and  a  porcelain  statue  of  Bernard 
Palissy.  —  Salle  IV  ( Chemical  Arts).  Manufacture  of  chemicals  ; 
dyeing  and  printing  of  textile  fabrics  and  of  waU- papers.  —  To 
the  right  is  the  N.  portion  of  the  — 

West  Wing  (Industrial  Chemistry),  where  the  arts  of  brewing, 
soap-boiling,  candle-making,  distilling,  etc.,  are  illustrated. 

Straight  on  from  the  N.  wing  we  enter  the  — 

NoBTH  Transverse  Building.  Rooms  I-lII  (Papeterie).  Paper 
Making:  raw  materials,  machinery,  and  finished  products.  The 
windows  to  the  right  afford  a  view  of  the  old  fortified  enceinte  of  the 
abbey.  —  Rooms  IV  and  V.  Typography  y  Engraving ^  and  Lilho" 
graphy:  tools,  apparatus,  machinery,  and  products.  —  Rooms  VI  and 
VII :  Photography :  apparatus  and  specimens ;  various  applications. 

The  W.  wing  (see  above)  is  adjoined  by  the  — 

South  Tbansvbbsb  Building  (Tissage,  Filature).  Spinning  and 
Weaving.  —  Section  1.  Raw  materials ;  tools  and  machines  for  the 
preparation  of  textile  fabrics.  —  Section  2.  Spinning  and  weaving 
looms ;  in  the  middle,  to  the  right,  Vaucanson's  Loom  (1745),  iu- 
teuded  to  supersede  the  earlier  looms  in  weaving  cloth  with  patterns. 
This  loom  suggested  to  Jacquard  the  idea  of  the  Jacquard  loom  with — ^ 
its  cards.  To  the  left,  model  of  Jcw^ward'*  Loom  (1804).  Specimens^ 

of  woven  fabrics.  —  Section  3.  Silk  fabrics;  tapestry  firom  the  Gobe 

lins  and  Beauvais. 

Courses  of  free  Public  LsCTURESf  embracing  the  varioaB  provinces  ol^' 
industrial  activity,  are  delivered  at  the  Conservatoire  in  the  evening  Csec^^ 
notices  at  the  entrance).  Some  of  the  courses  have  audiences  of  600^0 
the  average  attendance  is  260-300. 

The  building  to  the  N.  (left)  of  the  principal  entrance  contains  thce^ 
PoHefenille  Industriei  (open  daily,  10-8,  except  Mon.),  where  drawings  o^^ 
the  newest  machinery  are  exhibited  for  copying  or  study.  The  plan^^ 
and  specifications  of  expired  patents  are  deposited  and  trademarks  ar^^ 
registered  here. 

The  Rue  St.  Martin,  which  passes  in  front  of  the  Oonservatoir^ 
des  Arts  et  Metiers,  leads  to  the  N.  to  the  neighbouring  bonlevaid 
and  the  Porte  St  Martin  (p.  75). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Conservatoire  runs  the  Rue  BSaumur  (PL  K, 
24-21 ;  JI1\  which  begins  at  the  Square  du  Temple  (p.  210),  and 
is  continued  in  the  direction  of  the  Bourse,  where  it  Joins  the  Rue 
du  Quatre-Septembre,  thus  forming  an  important  thoroughfare  paiallel 
with  the  bouley&rds.  To  the  right  in  this  street,  near  the  OoDsei^ 
vatoire^  is  St.  iricola8-deB-Cliamp»iT?\.'R,*i4-,  lit),  aQothio  ehufoli, 


6.   ST.  NICOLAS-DES-OHAMPS.  179 

which  was  enlarged  in  the  15th  cent.,  with  a  choir  reconstr acted 
in  the  Renaissance  style.  The  handsome  portal  is  flanked  with  a 
iqnare  tower  on  the  right.  The  high-altar-piece  is  an  Assumption 
by  Vouet,  The  woodwork  of  the  organ  is  also  worthy  of  mention. 

The  Rne  Reaumur,  to  the  left  of  the  chnrch,  leads  ns  back  to 
the  Rue  de  Turhigo,  about  500  yds.  from  the  Place  de  la  R^publique. 
At  the  end  of  a  short  side-street  to  the  left  is  the  large  Ecole  Cen- 
trole  dea  ArU  et  Manufactures  (PI.  R,  24;  ///),  buUt  in  1878-84  by 
Beminnid  and  Denfer.  This  school,  which  was  founded  in  1829,  is 
designed  for  the  training  of  managers  of  industrial  establishments, 
engineers,  superintendents  of  public  works,  and  teachers  of  in- 
dustrial subjects.  The  pupils  are  admitted  by  competitive  examina- 
tion, and  the  course  lasts  three  years. 

Farther  on  the  Rue  de  Turbigo  passes  the  EcoU  Municipale 
^W^l,  and  the  back  of  the  church  of  Ste.  Elisabeth,  and  soon 
reaches  the  Place  de  la  Ripublique  (p.  74). 

'^-  FEOM  THE  PLACE  DE  LA  B^FUBLIQTJE  TO  F^BE-LACHAISE. 

.  The  Cemetery  of  P&re-Lachaise  is  nearly  1  Vs  H.  distant  from  the  Place 
£?.  ^  B^publique,  and  may  be  reached  thence  either  by  Caby  or  by 
^*^ctrie  frcunwaiy  (RomainylUe,  see  Appx. ,  p.  32)  to  the  Boulevard  de 
^^nilmontant  (p.  186),  a  few  himdred  yards  to  the  1^.  of  the  main  entrance. 
liUiieheon,  see  p.  1<2;    the  restaurants  near  the  cemetery  are  inferior. 

The  shortest  route  from  the  Boulevards  to  P^re-Lachaise  is 
*®»ided  by  the  Avbnub  de  la  Ripublique  (PI.  R,  27,  30;  electric 
!?*pi'Way,  see  above),  which  was  begun  under  Napoleon  III.  and 
Jl^slled  in  1892.  It  crosses  the  N.  end  of  the  Boulevard  Richard 
f'^oir  (p.  72),  hut  is  on  the  whole  uninteresting.  At  its  E.  end, 
^  *he  left,  is  the  large  Lycie  Voltaire.  —  In  the  Bonl.  Richard 
v^^oir,  at  its  intersection  with  the  Boulevard  Voltaire  (which  also 
.  .^^^8  at  the  Place  de  la  Ripublique),  stands  the  Monument  Bo- 
J V^*,  erected  to  the  memory  of  French  soldiers  killed  in  Tonkin 
v .,  *  S83-86,  with  a  bronze  statue,  by  Aug.  Paris,  of  Sergeant  Bo- 
In  fc  ^  who  fell  at  Tuyen-Quan.  —  A  little  farther  to  the  S.E. 
«^^«  Bonl.  Voltaire,  rises  the  handsome  Romanesque  church  of 
^^'  -^mbroiae  (PL  R,  29),  erected  by  Ballu  in  1863-69.  The  facade 
I  ^^nked  by  two  fine  towers,  223  ft.  high.  Mural  paintings  in  the 

^^or  by  Lenepveu  and  stained  glass  by  Mar^chal. 
£^^3^o  the  £.  of  St.  Ambroise,  between  the  Bue  Lacharriere  and  the  Rue 
-1  ?*^«bnnie  (PI.  B,  29),  is  the  Square  Parmentier,  embellished  with  rcveral 
br    Ja!^»  t>te.    The  Conqueror  of  the  Baslille,  by  Choppin;  The  Straw-binder, 

^  '*^erri»;  and  *Non  omnea  morimur',  by  Pezieux, 

^    ^rom  the  Place  de  la  Bastille  the  Rue  de  la  Roquettb  (PI.  R, 

^1  *i6,  29)  leads  to  P^re-Lachaise.    About  halfway,  to  the  left,  lies 

^^^  -Ptdce  Voltaire^  with  the  Mairie  of  the  11th  ArrcndUsement  and 

*  •tatue  of  Ledru-RoUin  (1807-74),    'the  organiser  of  uulvetsal 

VoXlngo\  by  Steiner.   Farther  on,  to  the  lighit,  \s  X\ift  Ptisou  d.e\a 

Bojuett^  ia  which  condemned  convicts  awaited.  t\ife\i  ei.fc<iA3^Aft'c^  ^^ 


180  5.   PfeRE-LACHAISB. 

deportation.  On  the  left  is  a  Reformatory  (* Petite  Roquette')^  now 
disused.  Between  these  two  prisons,  soon  to  be  pulled  down,  is  the 
former  puhllc  place  of  execution,  marked  by  five  oblong  paving-stones. 
On  24th  May,  1871,  daring  the  Communard  ^reign  of  terror^  the  Prison 
de  la  Roquette  was  the  scene  of  the  murder  of  the  venerable  Hsgr.  Darboy, 
Archbishop  of  Paris,  the  President  Bonjean,  the  Abb^  Deguerry,  and  three 
other  priests,  who  had  been  seized  by  the  Commune  as  ^hostages'.  On 
26th  and  27th  May  thirty-seven  persons  imprisoned  here  by  the  Commune 
under  various  pretexts  were  also  shot,  and  on  the  night  of  the  26th  twenty- 
eight  gendarmes  were  conveyed  from  the  Boquette  to  P&re-Lachaise,  where 
they  shared  the  same  fate.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  27th  all  the  convicts 
confined  in  the  Roquette  were  liberated.  Arms  were  placed  in  their 
hands,  and  they  at  once  proceeded  to  massacre  the  persons  imprisoned 
by  the  Commune,  including  seventy  gendarmes.  The  approach  of  the 
troops,  however,  fortunately  saved  many  who  would  otherwise  have  fallen 
victims  to  the  same  spirit  of  revenge. 

Dep6ts  of  tombstones  and  shops  for  the  sale  of  wreaths  and 
flowers  now  Indicate  that  we  are  approaching  the  cemetery ,  which 
lies  at  the  end  of  the  Rue  de  la  Roquette. 

^F^re-Lachaise  (PI.  R,  32),  or  the  Cimetilre  de  VEst^  the  largest 
and  most  interesting  of  the  Parisian  burial-grounds,  lies  on  a  hill  at 
the  N.  E.  end  of  the  town,  and  is  named  after  LachaUej  the  Jesuit 
confessor  of  Louis  XIY. ,  whose  country-seat  occupied  the  site  of 
the  present  chapel.  In  lo04  the  ground  was  laid  out  as  a  cemetery, 
the  precincts  of  which  have  since  been  greatly  extended,  and  it  now 
covers  an  area  of  about  110  acres.  It  is  the  burial-place  of  the 
Inhabitants  of  theN.E.  part  of  Paris,  but  persons  of  distinction  from 
other  parts  of  the  city  also  are  generally  interred  here. 

On  30th  March,  1814,  the  cemetery  was  the  scene  of  an  engagemen 
between  Russian  and  French  troops,  in  which  the  former  were  victorious. 
On  the  25-27th  May,  1871,  a  series  of  violent  struggles  took  place  between 
the  Communards,  who  had  taken  up  and  barricaded  a  poaition  here,  and 
the  Versailles  troops  advancing  from  the  Place  de  la  B4publique  and  the 
Bastille.  With  the  help  of  a  heavy  bombardment  from  the  batteries  of 
Montmartre  the  latter  succeeded  in  dislodging  the  insurgents. 

Paris  possesses  22  burial-grounds,  of  which  the  most  important  are 
those  of  Pere-Lachaise,  Montmartre  (p.  206),  and  Montpamasse  (p.  287). 
—  A  Concession  Trentenairty  providing  that  the  grave  shall  remain  undis- 
turbed for  80  years ,  costs  SiOD  fr.  \  a  Conceition  Temporaire,  for  6  years, 
costs  50  fr.  A  Concession  it  perpitnitiy  or  private  burial-place,  may  be 
secured  for  1000  fr.  These  spaces  are  very  limited,  being  about  22^/1  sq.  ft. 
only.  The  charge  for  a  larger  space  is  augmented  in  an  increasing  ratio, 
the  price  of  each  square  mfetre  (about  11 '/a  sq.  ft.)  beyond  six  being  8000  fr. 

All  burials  within  the  Department  of  the  Seine  are  undertaken  by  the 
Compagnie  des  Pompes  Funibrei,  Rue  d'Aubervilliers  104,  whose  charges 
are  regulated  by  tariflF,  varying  from  8  fr.  to  7184  fr.,  exclusive  of  the 
price  of  the  coffin  (44-60  fr.)  and  the  fee  of  the  officiating  clergyman.  A 
'civir  interment  costs  from  9  to  2215  fr.  The  poor  are  buried  gratuitously, 
mostly  in  the  cemeteries  outside  the  precincts  of  the  city. 

Cemeteries  open  at  7  a.m.  and  close  at  4.30-7  p.m.  according 

to  the  season.   Half-an-hour  before  the  closing  of  the  gates  a  heW  is 

rung,  and  the  custodians  call  out,   ^On  fermele8porte9\  allowing 

ample  time  for  visitors  to  reach  the  gates.  Yislton  are  notptamitted 

to  carry  anything  out  of  the  cemetwv  irtftwiuX  «k  ^iaUter-poMer'. 


I 


i  tivriyr  ■ 


-^t^j:. 


^^  J'fti^^    , 


;ii: 


f"^--     7.'. 


21  XT 


^ri|e^4Ii(*wi 


5.  PfiRE-LACHAlSE.  181 

^  QUy  be  obseryed  here  that  it  is  the  invariable  custom  for  men 
^"'ka  off  their  hats  on  meeting  a  funeral  procession,  whether  in 
^  *%metery  or  in  the  public  streets. 

^^)n(lic«tettrf  will  be  found  at  the  small  building  to  the  right  on 
*^llig,  but  their  services  (6-6  fr.,  or  less,  according  to  agreement) 
^         ^^ndered  unnecessary  by  the  accompanying  plan,  unless  the 
I  ''■^Or  U  much  pressed  for  time. 

1.     ^Uan  «  superficial  survey  of  the  most  interesting  monuments 

[2  *^  cemetery  will  occupy  2-3  hours.    On  All  Saints'  Day  (Jour 

If^^^  TwuBOifU)  and  All  Souls'  Day  (Jour  des  Moris;  November 

YT  ^aid  2iid)  it  is  visited  by  about  130,000  people.    The  number 

Hl^^Mmiiments  in  this  vast  necropolis  amounts  to  about  20, 000,  many 

ll^^kieli  eze  deeply  interesting  as  memorials  of  illustrious  persons, 

l^tt«  oihen  are  noteworthy  on  account  of  their  artistic  excellence. 

ly^^^Undiaded  walks  and  avenues  intersect  each  other  in  every  direc- 

,  and  many  of  them  afford  an  admirable  view  of  the  city. 

Atmnm  Pbinoipalb.    To  the  left,  Eich.  Pineyro  (d.  1876),  the 

'\it  monument  of  a  child,  with  a  figure  of  Hope.  We  continue  to 

m  this  aTenue ,  ascending  on  the  left ,  and  descending  on  the 

fc  tide.   At  the  comer  of  a  side-avenue,  EugHe  Berg^  (d.  1882; 

1 16  years),  monument  with  beautifully  sculptured  ioOl  and 

-JC ornamentation;  Visconti,  father  (d.  1818),  philologist,  and  son 

L1868),  architect;  Dantan(^3L.  1842),  sculptor;  i2oMm> (d,  1868), 

nr  (whose  remains,  however,  were*  removed  to  Florence  in 

;  AJfitd  de  Musset  (d.  1857),  poet  ({»aautiful  lyies  inscribed 

I  monument,  written  by  the  deceased) ;  Tk.  BielSrd  (d.  1864), 

idor,  with  statue  of  Grief,  by  Crauk;  CtSttient- Thomas  and 

t  (d.  1871),  the  first  victims  of  the  Gommt^e  (p.  205),  with 

BBi  by  Gugnot;  Lebas  (d.  1873),  the  engineer  who  erected 

I  Aellak  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde;  *Paul  Baudry  (d.  1886), 

Btor,  with  bronze  bust  and  statue  by  A.  Merci6.   In  the  middle 

Pike  avenue  it  the  *Monument  aux  MortSj  by  Bartholom^  (1899) ; 

k  troop  of  mortals,  with  varying  expressions  of  hope  and  grief,  press 

Itowirds  the  open  portal  of  a  tomb,  already  crossed  by  two  of  their 

I  number.    A  monument  to  Felix  Faure  (d.  1899),  with  a  recumbent 

[  atatue  by  Stlffarceaux,  is  to  be  erected  to  the  right.  —  Chapel  and 

[  upper  part  of  the  cemetery,  see  pp.  183  et  seq. 

Deacendlng  on  the  other  side :  Th,  Couture  (d.  1879),  painter, 
with  a  bust  and  genii  in  bronze  by  E.  Barrias ;  Ledru-Rollin  (p.  179), 
with  a  bxonze  bust  by  Garraud ;  Victor  Cousin  (d.  1867),  the  philo- 
iophei;  Au5er  (d.  1871),  the  composer,  with  a  bust  by  Dantan; 
Bm.Barotke  (d.  1870),  killed  at  Le  Bourget,  with  a  bust  by  Courtel ; 
P.  J.  Baroehe  (d.  1870),  the  politician;  Lefibure-Wily  (d.  1869), 
mnalcal  composer;  Perdonrut(d.  1867),  engineer,  with  a  status 
tad  medallion  by  Dubray ;  Fr.  Arago  (d.  185S^,  t\ift  «,%UQxvoYS5kKt  .,^«SS^ 
I  bust  liy  DMvid  d'ADgera;  Afouton^  with  a  f^ivft  \>a.a-Te\\fel\ii  ^««w. 
WenowmtertbeAYBNUB  du  Puits,  to  tlielelX..  — \viVXv<b  ^v^^- 


182  6.   PfiRE-LAOHAISB. 

walk  to  the  left :  Paul  de  8t.  Victor  (d.  1881),  the  author,  bust  by 
Guillaume ;  behind,  Berthelier  (d.  1882),  bust  by  Rougelet.  Farther 
on,  to  the  left:  P.  L.  Dulong  (A.  1838),  chemist  and  physician, 
obelisk  with  medallion  by  David  d'Angers. 

We  here  turn  to  the  right  to  visit  the  Jbwish  Cbmbteby.  To 
the  right,  Elise  Rachel  (d.  1858),  the  tragedian.  Farther  on,  to  the 
left  of  the  walk,  the  chapel  of  the  Roth$child  family.  At  the  end, 
Mme,  Fould  (d.  1839),  well  known  for  her  benevolence.  —  Then, 
to  the  left,  — 

*Abilard  (d.  1141)  and  Heloue  (d.  1163),  sarcophagus  with  re- 
cumbent statues,  beneath  a  Gothic  canopy,  reconstructed  from  the 
fragments  of  old  monuments  by  Lenoir  (p.  248),  and  lately  restored. 
—  We  now  follow  the  OHBjinN  Serb^,  to  the  right,  to  the  monument 
of  L.  Cogniet  (d.  1880),  the  painter,  with  medallion,  then  retrace 
our  steps  and  ascend  to  the  left  by  the  Ghbmin  Lbbbun.  On  the 
right:  Baron  Deshassayns  (^A.  1860),  with  a  weeping  figure  by  Ricci. 
On  the  left :  Fr,  Lebrun  (d.  1824),  Duke  of  Piaoenza,  Third  Consul 
after  the  18th  Brumaire,  and  translator  of  Homer  and  Tasso,  as  in- 
dicated by  the  genii.  On  the  right:  Victims  of  June,  1832,  In  front, 
Lapomeraye,  the  physician,  with  bust  and  relief  by  Fontaine.  On 
the  left :  jdarshal  Lauriston  (d.  1828). 

Grand  Rond,  from  which  five  avenues  radiate.  —  In  the  centre : 
*Casimir  Pirier  (d.  1832),  minister  of  Louis  Philippe,  statue  by 
Cortot.  To  the  N.,  *Ra8paa  (d.  1878),  the  famous  democrat  and 
physiologist,  with  a  fine  relief  by  Etex,  in  memory  of  the  death  of 
Raspail's  wife  during  his  imprisonment  in  1848.  —  Behind,  to  the 
right:  '^CruBol  d^Vzhs (d..  1815),  general;  handsome  allegorical  bas- 
reliefs.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  Monge  (d.  1820),  mathematician  and 
member  of  the  Convention  in  1793. 

We  skirt  the  Rond  to  the  S.,  passing  the  grave  of  the  *Moreau^ 
Vauthier  family,  with  a  fine  statue  of  a  mourner  by  the  sculptor 
Moreau-Yauthier,  then  enter  Division  13,  between  the  Avenue 
Pirier  and  the  Avenue  de  la  Chapelle,  and  descend  the  Chemin 
M^ul  to  the  Chbmin  Dbnon.  In  the  last,  to  the  right :  *Chophh 
(d.  1849),  the  composer,  with  medallion  and  the  figure  of  a  mourn- 
ing Muse,  by  CWsinger.  Behind:  Wilhem  (d.  1842),  composer, 
medallion  by  David.  To  the  left,  at  the  foot  of  a  small  flight  of  steps, 
Oareau,  with  a  beautiful  figure  of  a  weeping  woman.  To  the  left, 
Oohier  (d.  1830),  president  of  the  Directory,  medallion  by  David; 
*Denorh  (d.  1825),  director  of  museums  under  Napoleon  I.,  statue 
by  Cartellier.  On  the  right:  Cfeeru&tni  (d.  1842),  the  composer,  bas- 
relief  by  Dumont.  We  now  ascend  to  the  right  and,  opposite  the 
grave  of  Talma  (d.  1826),  the  famous  tragedian,  we  enter  the  so- 
called  ^artists'  division^  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  cemetery.  To  the 
Jeft:  the  two  BrongniarU^  the  mineralogist  fd.  1847),  and  the 
architected.  i8i3);  on  the  right,  •TambcTUck(d.l889),  the  tenor, 
^tb  an  angel  strewing  flowers,  \)y  Qto^ft\>«kWV.   KX^  wA  ^1  \Svq 


5.   PJfeBE-LAGHAISE.  183 

alltfe,  DeUlU  (d.  1813),  the  poet,  a  neglected  bat  very  picturesque 
tomi).  Behind:  Bellini  (d.  1836),  the  composer,  whose  remains 
have  been  lemoyed  to  Catania,  his  native  place;  Oritry  (d.  1813) 
and  Boieldieu  (d.  1834),  composers. 

Ascending  now  to  the  Avbnub  db  la  Ohapbllb,  we  follow  it  to 
the  left  (N.W.).  On  the  left,  a  little  before  the  open  space:  Oiri- 
eauU  (d.  1824),  the  painter,  statue  and  bronze  relief  by  £tex.  In 
front  of  the  chapel,  whence  we  haye  a  fine  view  of  Paris,  is  the 
Monument  de  Souvenir,  a  truncated  column  surrounded  with  wreaths. 
Just  to  the  W.,  David  (d.  18Q6),  the  painter,  with  medallion. 

The  Cemetery  Chapel  itself  contains  nothing  noteworthy.  —  To 
the  right  Is  the  monument  of  Ad,  Thiers  (d.  1877),  the  celebrated 
statesman,  consisting  of  a  large  and  elaborate  chapel  by  Aldrophe. 
Above  the  fine  bronze  doors  is  a  relief  of  the  Genins  of  Patriotism, 
by  Ohapn.  The  interior  contains  a  group,  by  Mercitf,  representing 
Thiers  rising  to  answer  the  summons  of  Immortality,  and  reliefs  by 
Ghapn,  of  the  Liberation  of  French  Soil,  and  the  Genius  of  Im- 
moitality.  The  sarcophagus  rests  in  an  open  crypt.  —  To  the  left : 
Aefter  (d.  1880),  professor  at  the  Conservatory  of  Music;  relief  of 
Mosie.  Adjoining :  Baron  Taylor  (d.  1879),  traveller  and  author, 
marble  statue  by  Thomas.  Then,  to  the  right :  Count  Deahze  (d.  1828), 
one  of  the  defenders  of  Louis  XYI.  *Cartellier  (d.  1831),  sculptor; 
hnit  by  Bnde,  bas-reliefs  by  Seurre. 

AvsKus  Feuillant,  to  the  left  of  the  chapel.  On  the  left,  Re- 
naissance chapel  of  the  Urth  family ;  to  the  right,  farther  on,  Tirard 
(d.  1893),  statesman,  with  a  relief  of  Duty,  by  St.  Marceaux.  —  In 
tiie  walk  behind  the  cemetery  chapel :  ^Quirinot  (d.  1891),  architect, 
gtatae  of  a  weeping  woman,  by  Barrias. 

We  now  follow  the  Chemin  Bertholle,  then  take  the  Chemin  du 
Baesin  on  the  left,  and  farther  on,  the  Chemin  Moliebb  et  Lafon- 
TAZax.  At  the  beginning,  to  the  left,  Pradier  (d.  1852),  the  sculptor. 
Farther  on,  to  the  right,  Oay-Lu$8ae  (d.  1850),  the  chemist.  To  the 
light  of  the  Ghemin  Laplace,  which  begins  nearly  opposite :  Laplace 

id«  1827),  mathematician.  A  little  way  back:  Count  d'AhoviUe 
(ft.  1843),  general,  with  two  cannon.  Farther  on,  Oros  (d.  1835), 
painter;  and,  farther  off,  the  large  obelisk  of  Countess  Gimont.  To 
the  left  of  the  path :  Count  de  Valence  (d.  1822),  general.  Behind : 
Dakbigny  (d.  1878),  painter,  with  a  bust.  Corot  (d.  1875),  painter, 
with  bronze  bust.  —  A  little  farther  up  the  Chemin  Moli^re,  on  the 
left,  the  sarcophagi  of  Lafontaine  (d.  1695),  fabulist,  and  Molilre 
(d.  1673),  dramatist,  transferred  hither  in  1817. 

We  retom  to  Pradier's  monument  and  turn  to  the  E.  into  the 
OBumr  DV  D&AGON.   To  the  right,  Duret  (d.  1865),  sculptor,  with 
baa-relief  and  medallion ;  to  the  left,  at  a  corner,  Oaudin  (d.  1841^^ 
Dae  de  Gadte,  minister ;  to  the  right  the  superb  ma^usoVewTOL  qI  ^^ 
^Demidoffttjnny;  *Geo/froy Saini-HUaire  (d.i844^,mtuT^\V^\.,\svfe\- 
aUioff  hylHridi  to  the  left,  Admiral  Brual  (d.  i8b6)  *,  to  X\ie  Tv^t> 


184  5.   PJfeRE-LACHAISE. 

Borne  (d.  1837),  German  poet,  bnst  and  bas-relief  by  David;  to 
the  left,  *Foy  (d.  1826),  a  general  and  celebrated  orator ;  statue  and 
reliefs  by  David;  behind,  Daunou  (d.  1840),  historian,  medallion 
by  David.  Behind  the  three  columns  is  the  common  grave  of  Manuel 
(d.  1827),  popular  deputy,  and  Btranger  (d.  1857),  the  poet,  with 
bronze  medallions.  Farther  on :  to  the  right,  *Baron  Ooherty  a  general 
killed  in  Spain  in  1808,  and  his  son  (d.  1833) ,  a  group  and  bas- 
relief  by  David.  Opposite :  Beaumarehaia  (d.  1799),  dramatist.  To 
the  right,  Winsor  (d.  1830),  promoter  of  gas-lighting;  to  the  left, 
Marshal  Massina  (d.  1817),  monument  by  Bosio  and  Jacques ;  Marshal 
Ltflhvre  (d.  1820) ;  to  the  right.  General  Buty  (d.  1823) ;  to  the  left, 
Marshal  Sachet  (d.  1826).  Opposite  the  end  of  the  path,  to  the  right, 
Eugene  Scribe  (d.  1861),  dramatist. 

We  here  ascend  the  steps  to  the  left,  near  the  top  of  which,  on 
the  right,  begins  the  Avenue  Pacthod,  which  soon  crosses  the  Avenue 
Transversale  No.  II.  At  the  corner :  *Clara  Bancroft  (d.  1882),  bronze 
relief  by  Chapu.  Farther  on  In  the  Avenue  Pacthod :  left ,  Aigon 
(d.  1884),  sculptor;  Bouasingault (d,  1887;  p.  176);  •Lenoir;  right, 
Dr,  Reliquet  (d.  1894);  Eughne  Delaplane^e  (d.  1891),  sculptor. 

There  are  few  more  tombs  in  this  direction  beyond  the  Avenue  Trans- 
versale No.  Ill,  except  below  to  the  right  and  at  the  comer  of  the  cem- 
etery, beside  the  Mur  des  Fidiri*^  against  which  the  Communards  taken  in 
the  cemetery  with  arms  in  their  hands  were  shot  in  1871  at  the  end  of  the 
insurrection.  Demonstrations  annually  take  place  here  on  the  anniversary 
of  the  event,  and  numerous  red  wreaUis  are  hung  on  the  wall. 

We  return  to  the  Avbmub  Tkansvbbsalb  No.  II ,  and  proceed 
to  the  W.  Right,  A,  Qill{di,  1887),  caricaturist,  bronze  bust  by 
L.  Goutan.  Frid,  Coumet,  journalist,  bronze  bust  by  Syamour.  Left, 
Aforw,  sculptor,  bronze  statue  by  himself.  Right:  M.  Terry  {du  1886), 
a  handsome  Renaissance  chapel,  with  four  statues  by  A.  Lenoir.  A 
few  paces  behind,  Vuidet  (d.  1891),  composer  of  sacred  music,  with 
bronze  statue  by  Aub^.  Beyond  Terry,  *  Victor  Noir^  journalist  killed 
in  1870  by  Prince  Pierre  Bonaparte;  recumbent  statue  by  Dalou. 
*De  Yeaza  (d.  1890),  another  fine  Renaissance  chapel,  with  a  group 
of  statues  inside  and  a  bas-relief  outside,  by  Puech.  In  the  next 
side-avenue  (Avenue  Oarette)  to  the  left :  right,  M.  Blanqui  (d.  1881), 
revolutionary;  recumbent  statue  by  Dalou.  [To  the  E.,  beyond  the 
Avenue  Transversale  No.  Ill,  left,  *Le  Royer  (d.  1897),  president  of 
the  senate,  statue  by  d'Houdain ;  close  by,  in  the  Avenue  Trans- 
versale No.  Ill,  Ali%e  0»i,  with  an  allegorical  statue  by  Dortf.]  Farther 
on  in  the  Avenue  Transversale  No.  II,  to  the  left,  E.  Eude»  (d.  18881, 
revolutionary,  bronze  bust  by  T.  Noel ;  *Jo8iphine  Vtnuasi  (d,  1879j, 
marble  group  by  Malfatti. 

To  the  right  is  situated  the  Crematorium,  opened  In  1889,  but 
as  yet  little  used  (admission  by  special  permission  only). 

To  the  right,  near  the  W.  end  of  the  Avenue  Transversale  No.  II, 
stands  the  ma^niflf eiit  *ChaptUt  Yokmlt^^  \u  the  ByBantliie  style, 
"^ith  paintings  on  a  gold  ground,  "by  ¥6^oio!l,  vel^  o^^^^  A&  the 


; 


6.    PfiRE-LACHAISE.  185 

^ave  of  the  *Ruel  family,  with  a  group  and  medallion  by  Deschamps. 
The  adjoining  door  leads  to  a  public  Garden^  laid  ont  in  1890  on  the 
^Ulside,  between  the  cemetery  and  the  Avenue  OamheUa^  which  ends  a 
J^ttle  farther  on  to  the  right,  near  the  Place  Gambetta  (p.  186). 

The  Ayenub  de  la.  Nouvellb  EntbjSe,  near  the  Crematorium, 
lea.d8  back  towaids  the  centie  of  the  cemetery.  At  a  little  distance  to 
^e  left,  Marquis  de  Casaritra^  a  large  chapel  containing  a  statue, 
-ffcsfdeej^d*  1869),  ^fondateur  de  la  philosophic  spiritiste',  a  monument 
in.  the  foim  of  a  dolmen,  with  a  bronze  bust  by  Gapellaro.  To  the  left : 
Wvie.  Eouvief  (d.  1888) ,  better  known  as  Claude  Vignon ,  bronze 
l^^xst  by  herself.  —  We  now  foUow  the  Ghemin  du  Quinconce,  on  the 
i^^ht  of  Eardec ,  to  the  Ghemin  des  Anglais ,  at  the  beginning  of 
W-lilch,  on  the  left,  Is  *Triqueti  (d.  1874),  sculptor,  bas-relief  by  him- 
■^liL  Raising  of  Lazarus.  Farther  on,  right :  AdmircU  Sir  Sidney  Smith 
C*.  1840),  who  defeated  Napoleon  at  St.  Jean  d'Acre  in  1799.  —  We 
r^'Czaoe  our  steps  to  Triqueti,  turn  to  the  left,  and  re-enter  the  — 

Atbkvb  Tbanbtbbbalb  No.  I.  At  the  end :  F6lix  de  Beaujour 
C^*  1836),  a  conspicuous  pyramid  105  ft.  in  height,  visible  from  the 
Aar«  de  listoile,  and  commonly  called  the  *pain  de  suore*,  erected 
by  himself  at  a  cost  of  100,000  fr.  —  Nearer  the  path :  Diaa  Santos ; 
»•  lofty  pyramid  with  sculptures  by  Fessard(1832).  —  To  the  right, 
O'eneral  de  Wimpffen  (d.  1884),  bronze  bust  by  Richard;  farther 
*o^wn,  A.  Florent  (d.  1885),  fine  bas-relief  by  Boussard. 

We  return  and  follow  the  path  on  the  other  side  of  the  'pain  de 
•ucie\  On  the  left:  Beauci  fd.  1875),  painter.  Right:  Em, 
®ot»ertre  (d.  1854);  Balzac  (d.  1850),  with  bronze  bust  by  David ; 
^•ft:  Nodief(d.  1844);  C.  Velavigne  (d.  1843):  four  weU-known 
•others.  At  the  corner  to  the  right :  Mmt,  de  Faverolles,  with  sculp- 
*J^»  by  V.  Dubiay;  Delphine  Carribaeerhs,  with  bust  by  Jouandot; 
^^hambeaudU  (d.  1872),  fabulist;  Soulie  (^d,  1847),  novelist. 

•At  the  Rond-Point  is  an  obelisk  to  the  municipal  workmen 
*uled  by  accidents  (Victimes  du  Devoir),  The  paths  which  radiate 
f^ooti  this  point  in  all  directions  contain  many  interesting  tombs, 
"®8ide8  forming  a  kind  of  museum  of  modern  sculpture.  —  We  begin 
^»h  the  Ghemin  Delavignb,  to  the  right  of  the  monument  Delavigiie 
lj«e  above).  To  the  left:  H,  Chenavard  (d.  18S0J,  painter;  A.  L. 
^Ue  (d.  1876),  sculptor;  E.  Delacroix  (d.  1864),  painter.  On  the 
othe^  side  as  we  return,  Andrianoff  (d.  1857),  Russian  *danseuse' 
^  a  side -walk,  Crozatier,  sculptor;  d.  1866);  Buloz  (^1.  1877), 
jwtoi  of  the  *Revue  des  Deux  Mondes' ;  Delpech  (d.  1863),  engineer ; 
**e^«tet(d.  1875),  the  historian,  high-relief  by  Me rci^.  —  Chemtn 
^J  Bastion:  ♦CAapWn(d.  1891),  painter,  monument  by  Puech ;  Belloc 
^'  1866),  painter,  bust  by  Itasse.  —  In  front,  adjoining  the  Rond- 
Polut^  *2)tiG  de  Momy  (d.  1865),  politician  and  minister,  a  natural 
Mother  of  Napoleon  III. ,  chapel  designed  by  Viollet-la-BwR,.  — 
Ch^hik  db  Montlouis;  to  the  right,  Maquct  (<^.  i^^^  ,  o.^WaJ^o^^'ik.- 
^^BrafDamas,  tro/ize  medallion  by  Allat-,  la.i\.\!Let  q\\,  \.q  VX^^V^"^^'^ 


186  5.   P^BE-LAGHAISE. 

*BarhedUnne  (d.  1892),  manufacturer  of  bronzes,  with  a  bust  by 
Gbapu  and  tbree  figures  by  A.  Boucber. 

Avenue  des  Ailantes  :  to  the  left,  E,  Adam  (d.  1877),  bust  in 
bronze  by  A.  Millet.  Th.  Barnhre  (d.  1887),  author,  with  marble 
bust;  Ricord  (d.  1889),  physician,  a  flue  Renaissance  chapel; 
^Countess  d^Agoult  (d.  1873),  who  wrote  as  ^Daniel  8tem\  with 
sculptures  by  Chapu.  —  By  the  Rond-Point :  *  Dorian  f  d.  1873), 
minister  during  the  siege  of  Paris,  bronze  statue  by  A.  Millet. 

We  now  quit  the  Rond-Point  by  the  Aybnub  Cail.  To  the  left, 
VescUe  (d.  1874),  actress.  At  the  fork,  on  the  right,  "^Croct'SpinelU 
and  Sivtl  (d.  1875),  victims  of  a  balloon  accident ;  recumbent  figures 
in  bronze,  by  Dumil&tre.  —  We  here  turn  to  the  left  and  enter  the 
Avenue  Oirculaire :  to  the  left,  CUray  (d.  1882),  bronze  bust  by 
Taluet;  Bazillet  (d.  1873),  gardener  to  the  city  of  Paris ;  to  the  right, 
'^Jean  Raynaud  (d.  1863),  philosopher  and  publicist,  with  figure  of 
Immortality  by  Chapu  and  bronze  medallion  by  David.  Ch.  Rosaignol 
(d.  1889),  rich  Renaissance  chapel,  with  marble  bust,  statuettes, 
cross,  and  ornaments  by  Boisseau.  Opposite,  Cail  (d.  1858),  en- 
gineer, a  large  domed  chapel.  To  the  right.  National  Chiords  killed 
at  Buzenval  (19th  Jan.,  1871),  and  *8oldier8  who  fell  at  Hie  siege  in 
1870-71 ;  a  pyramid  of  granite  with  four  bronze  statues  of  soldiers 
by  Schrceder  and  Lef&vre.  To  the  left,  Bernard^  marble  angel  by 
Durand;  *Carvalho  (d.  1897),  director  of  the  Optfra  Oomique,  and 
Mme.  Molan-Carvalho  fd.  1895),  the  singer,  his  wife,  monument  by 
Mercier.  Farther  on :  *AnJubault  (d.  1868),  mechanician;  a  *pleu- 
reuse'  by  Maillet.  *Walew8ki  (d.  1868),  statesman;  a  large  and 
handsome  mausoleum.  Opposite :  Carlier  family,  bronze  group  by 
E.  Garlier.  To  the  left,  Ch,  Floquet  (d.  1896),  statesman,  bust  by 
Dalou ;  Anatole  de  la  Forge  (d.  1892),  defender  of  St.  Quentin  in 
1870 ;  bronze  statue  by  E.  Barrias.  Alphand  fd.  1891),  city  engineer, 
bronze  bust  by  Goutan ;  J7.  Cemuachi  (d.  1896 ;  p.  199),  stele  with 
bas-relief  by  A.  CarUs. 

From  this  point  we  may  follow  the  Avenue  Circulaire  to  the 
Avenue  Principale  and  the  main  entrance. 


The  Avenue  Gamlbetta  is  prolonged  to  the  W.  of  P^re-Laohaise,  skirt- 
ing the  cemetery  (garden;  p.  185),  to  the  Place  Oambetia^  formorly  the 
JHaee  des  Pyr4niees  in  which  if  the  Mairie  of  the  SOth  ArromdieeemeiU  CM^nU- 
montant ;  PI.  B,  32),  with  paintings  by  Olaise  and  Bin.  Prom  the  HMUU 
Tenon  (918  beds)  the  Mairie  if  separated  by  a  square,  embellifhed  with  a 
bronse  group,  by  L.  Michel,  representing  the  Lame  and  the  Blind.  The 
Avenue  Gambetta  is  continued,  to  the  left,  to  the  Eieervatre  de  la  Dkuie 
(p.  187).  —  The  Place  Gambetia  is  passed  by  the  tramway  ftrom  the  Gours 
de  Vincennes  to  St.  Augastin  (TAD),  by  which  we  may  procceed  to  the 
Buttes  Chaumont  (p.  201). 

About  Vs  M.  to  the  K.  of  P^re-Lachaise,  on  a  height  to  the  right  of  the 
Boulevard  de  M^nilmontant,  rises  the  conspicuous  choreh  of  Jfotre-Jkune- 
de-^a-Croix  (PI.  S,  SO),  a  fine  Romanesque  edifice,  built  in  1866-7D  by  H^ret, 
^itb  a  ppire  rising  above  the  portal. 

year  this  church  is  a  station  of  ihe  (JKcmiii  da  F«r  4i  Oilii*wr>A»ifc  A^^x., 


6.  FONTAINE  RICHEUEU.  187 

p.  34),  and  the  omnibus-line  0  (f^om  M^nilmontant  to  the  Gare  Hontpar- 
nasse)  passes  it.  Other  lines  of  omnibuses  and  tramways,  see  the  Appendix. 
The  Sue  Mdnilmontant  and  Rue  St.  Fargeaa  lead  to  the  E.  from  the 
elinreh  to  (I/4  hr.)  the  Reaervoira  de  la  Dhuia  (PL  R,  36),  which  supply 
tbe  E.  qnartera  of  Paris  with  water.  The  DhuU  is  a  tribuUry  of  the  Sur- 
melin,  which  itself  joins  the  Mame,  near  Ch&teau-Thierry.  The  water 
ia  condneted  a  distance  of  80  M.,  with  a  fall  of  only  60  ft.,  and  reaches 
Paris  at  the  height  of  350  ft.  above  sea-level  or  260  ft.  above  the  quays. 
The  reservoirs  (visitors  admitted ;  entrance,  Rue  St.  Fai^eau  36)  resemble 
thoae  of  the  Yanne  (p.  2S0). 

6.  Heighbourhood  of  the  Exchange  and  Qnartiers  de 
la  Chauss^e-d'Antin  and  de  I'Earope. 

The  following  walk  should  be  taken  on  a  Tuesday  or  a  Friday^  as  the 
BnUothftque  Rationale  is  open  on  these  days.  Spare  time,  before  the  li- 
brary is  open,  may  be  spent  in  visiting  the  Church  and  Place  des  Victoires. 
The  Bxehaage  may  be  visited  daily  from  12.30  to  8  p.m.  —  Restaurants 
at  the  Palaia-Royal  or  on  the  boulevards,  see  pp.  16,  17. 

I.  FROM  THB  PALAI8-R0TAL  TO  THE  BOURSE. 
Bihliotheque  Nationale. 

The  Eue  de  Richelieu  (Pi.  R ,  21 ;  //) ,  a  street  1000  yds.  in 
length,  which  passes  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Palais-Royal,  leads  direct 
from  the  lower  end  of  the  Avenue  de  TOp^ra  (p.  60)  to  the  ^Grands 
Boulevards*. 

We  first  observe  on  the  left,  at  the  comer  of  the  Rue  Molidre, 
the  Fontaine  Moliirei  erected  in  1844  to  the  memory  of  the  famous 
dxamatlftt,  who  died  in  1673  at  No.  40  Rue  de  Richelieu  (not  No.  34 
as  freqnently  stated).  The  monument  is  in  the  Renaissance  style, 
51  ft.  high  and  21  ft.  vide ,  and  was  designed  by  Visconti.  The 
■tatue  of  Molidre  is  by  Seurrtj  while  the  muses  of  serious  and  light 
comedy  are  by  Pradier. 

Farther  on ,  the  Rue  de  Richelieu  crosses  the  Rue  des  Petits- 
Cliamps,  leading  to  the  right  to  the  Place  des  Victoires  (p.  192). 
Then  to  the  right  is  the  Bihliotheque  Nationale,  opposite  the  prin- 
cipal entrance  to  which  (farther  on)  is  the  ^Fontaine  Eichelieiii  or 
LouvoU,  In  bronze,  by  Viscontiy  with  statues  by  Klagmann  repre- 
senting the  Seine,  the  Loire,  the  Garonne,  and  the  Sa6ne.  It  stands 
in  the  small  Square  LouvoiSy  on  the  site  of  the  old  Grand- Op^ra,  on 
leaving  which  the  Due  de  Berri  was  assassinated  in  1820,  and  which 
iras  taken  down  in  consequence. 

The  ^Biblipthiqne  Nationale  (PL  R,  21;  /i),  formerly  called 
the  BibUotklque  du  Roi,  and  afterwards  the  Bibliothhque  ImpSriale^ 
-will,  on  the  completion  of  the  portion  in  the  Rue  Yivienne  (comp. 
PI.,  p.  188),  occupy  the  entire  block  of  buildings  bounded  by  the 
Rues  de  Richelieu,  des  Petits-Ghamps,  Tivienne,  and  Colbert.  Th& 
libcary  stands  on  the  site  of  the  palace  of  GaTdina\lilL8^i.ttT\ii^^A^^N^> 
the  poireiftil  minister  of  Louis  XIII.  and  Louis  ILYV  .,\>t\.^  ^Taft'sN. 
arwj  taee  of  tbe  old  building  has  been  lemo^e^  Vn.  l\ift  ^^^«i«»^  ^^ 


188  6.   BIBUOTH^QUE  NATIONALE. 

extension  and  alteration.  The  handsome  facades  in  the  Rue  Yivienne 
and  the  Rue  des  Petits-Champs  are  modem. 

The  library  may,  perhaps,  he  dated  back  even  to  the  MSS.  collected 
by  the  Carlovingians.  8t.  Louis  (d.  1270)  had  a  library  in  a  side-chamber 
of  the  Sainte  Chapelle  (p.  22L).  More  important  was  the  collection  of 
Charles  V.  (^Le  Sage'),  which,  however,  was  sold  to  the  Duke  of  Bedford 
in  1425.  The  real  founder  of  the  present  library  may  be  recognized  in 
Louis  XI.  Cd.  1515),  who  collected  the  books  of  his  predecessor,  Charles  VIII., 
in  the  Oh&teau  of  Blois,  and  acquired  the  libraries  of  the  Sforza  of  Milan 
and  of  the  Gruthuuse  family  of  Bruges.  Francis  I.  (d.  1517)  removed  the 
collection  (consisting  of  about  1900  vols.)  to  Fontalnebleau  and  busied 
himself  in  its  enlargement.  It  was  he  who  decreed  that  a  copy  of  every 
work  printed  in  France  should  be  furnished  to  the  royal  library,  though 
it  was  long  before  this  requirement  was  properly  observed.  A  little  later 
the  library  was  removed  to  Paris.  Henri  IV.  (d.  1610)  deposited  it  in  the 
suppressed  Jesuit  College  de  Clermont,  and  used  the  proceeds  of  the  con- 
fiscated property  of  the  Order  to  provide  the  books  with  handsome  bind- 
ings. Under  Louis  XIV.  (1643-1715)  the  library  was  greatly  enlarged  by 
the  purchase  of  several  valuable  collections.  In  1774,  in  the  reign  of 
Louis  Jrr.,  the  library  was  finally,  on  the  suggestion  of  the  librarian  Abbi 
Bignon^  accommodated  in  the  Hdtel  Mazarin.  At  the  Revolution  the  books 
of  the  religions  orders  were  united  with  the  llational  Library.  The  library 
now  contains  upwards  of  3,000,000  volnmes.  Its  book-shelves  arranged  in 
line  would  extend  to  a  distance  of  35  M.  A  General  Catalogue  is  in  pre- 
paration, but  so  far  only  two  volumes  have  appeared.  —  The  present  General 
Director  is  M.  Liopold  Delisle. 

The  Bibllothdqne  Nationale,  probably  the  most  extensive  in  the 
world,  is  divided  into  four  departments:  (1)  Printed  Books  and 
Maps  (Imprimis  et  Cartes)  j  (2)  MSS.  (Manuscriis);  (3)  Engravings 
(Estampes);  (4)  Medals  and  Antiques  (MidmUes  et  ArUiques), 

The  8alU  Publique  de  Lecture  (puhlic  reading  room ;  entrance 
by  No.  3  Rue  Colbert)  is  open  daily  from  9  a.m.  till  4,  6,  or  6  p.m. 
(according  to  the  season),  with  the  exception  of  the  nine  days  from 
Palm  Sunday  to  Easter  Monday.  The  Scdle  de  Travail  (hall  for 
study;  entrance  in  the  Rue  de  Richelieu)  is  open  at  the  same  hours, 
except  on  Sundays,  holidays,  and  the  two  weeks  before  Easter;  it 
is,  however,  reserved  for  persons  provided  with  a  reader^s  ticket  by 
the  'administration*  (p.  189). 

The  Salle  de  Travail  contains  seats  for  334  persons.  On  entering  the 
visitor  receives  a  slip  of  paper  ('bulletin^),  on  which  he  writes  his  name 
and  address  and  the  number  of  the  seat  he  has  selected.  At  the  bureau, 
to  the  right  and  left  of  which  are  catalogues  of  the  acquisitions  since  1884, 
he  receives  smaller  slips,  which  he  fills  in  with  the  titles  of  the  books 
desired  and  then  returns,  along  with  the  larger  slip,  to  the  librarians. 
He  then  waits  till  the  book  is  brought  to  him.  No  applications  are  re- 
ceived within  one  hour  of  the  hour  of  closing.  On  returning  the  books, 
the  reader  receives  the  larger  bulletin  back,  stamped  and  bearing  the 
titles  of  the  books.  He  gives  it  up  to  the  official  at  the  exit.  Visitors  are  not 
permitted  to  quit  either  of  the  Salles  with  bookf,  papers,  or  portfolios  in 
their  hands,  without  a  *lais8er-passer^  from  one  of  the  libnurians.  For 
farther  details,  see  the  notices  affixed  to  the  doors  of  the  different  saloons. 
—  Foreign  scholars  and  students  visiting  the  library  receive  the  most 
cordial  reception  and  assistance. 

The  most  interesting  books,  MSS.,  engravings,  and  medals  are 
exhibited  ia  specitA  rooms,  to  whlcli  the  ^ublk  Is  admitted  free  on 
Tuesday  and  Friday,  10-4. 


6.   BIBLIOTHfiQUE  NATIONALE.  189 

Under  the  archway  leading  to  the  principal  court  ( Cour  d'Hon- 
\  Mwr)  from  the  Rne  de  Richelieu  are  statues  of  Printing,  by  Lahatut, 
I  Wilting,  ty  Ooutan,  Copper-Plate  Engraying,  by  J.  Hugues,  and  Die 
;  Oatting,  by  J.  Beoquet.  In  the  middle,  directly  in  front,  are  the 
I  ofllees  of  the  Administration.  To  the  right  is  a  short  flight  of  steps, 
UMading  to  the  lower  vestibule,  where  a  Sevres  vase  has  been  placed 
to  oommemorate  the  share  of  the  French  savants  in  the  observations 
•f  fte  Transit  of  Venus  in  1884.  Opposite  the  entrance  is  the  Salle 
<b  Travail,  To  the  right  is  a  small  refreshment  room.  The  stair- 
'M6  to  the  left,  at  the  end  of  the  vestibule,  leads  to  the  first  floor, 
lb  the  light  Is  the  entrance  to  the  — 

IttFABTHMBNT  DBS  EsTAMPBs,  wMch  coutaius  moro  than  2,500,000 

llttM  hound  np  into  volumes  (14,500)  or  arranged  in  portfolios 

I  (4000).    A  number  of  the  most  interesting  are  exposed  to  view  at 

'  lie  same " 


hours  as  the  printed  books  and  manuscripts  (comp.  p.  188). 
The  staircase  ascends  to  the  upper  vestibule ,  containing  the 
bawlngs  made  during  Napoleon's  expedition  to  Egypt  (1798)  and 
9m»  Phcenician  inscriptions.  Facing  the  staircase  is  the  small 
OoMe  d€8  Chartea.  To  the  right  is  the  department  of  MSS. 
t  (100,000  volumes).  To  the  left  are  the  department  of  Maps  ( Cartes) 
ttdtiie  — 

Sidles  dCExposition  des  Imprimis  et  des  Manuscrits  (admission, 
;  Jee  p.  188).  They  contain  the  chief  treasures  of  the  library,  some 
I  If  them  beautifully  illuminated  and  magnificently  bound.  These 
{  tvo  looms  are  on  the  first  floor,  facing  the  Rue  Yivienne.  The 
'  Moond,  the  Galerie  Mazarine,  is  a  remarkably  fine  saloon,  belonging 
■  t»  the  original  palace  of  Card.  Mazarin.  All  the  objects  are  la- 
j  kUed  ('Notice  des  Objets  exposes',  5  fr.). 

;  Boom  L  In  the  centre,  the  French  Parnassus,  a  group  in  bronze 
;  NfffMentisg  the  chief  French  authors  and  artists  of  the  17th  cent. ,  by 
;  Zmdt  Gamisr,  In  the  glass-cases  I-lII,  V,  superb  bindings,  with  the  arms 
I  tf  flie  kiacs  of  France  from  Francis  I.  downwards.  In  Case  IV.,  by  the 
'  viidow:  m,  Christianismi  Restitutio,  by  Michael  Servetus,  a  work  which 
•■  led  to  the  »athor*8  death  at  the  stake  in  Geneva  (1553);  371,  372.  Hippo- 
!  vtim  and  Theophrastns,  with  the  autograph  of  Babelais  ^  373.  Philo  Judeeus, 
nth  Montaigne's  signature;  374.  Sophocles,  annotated  by  Racine;  376. 
Bnuerliit  music  by  Rousseau. 

Book  EL  This  large  saloon,  called  the  *Oalerie  Maearine^  has  a  fine 
ttOlnf-palBting  by  Romanelli  (1617-62)  representing  heroic  and  legendary 
~    tes.    On  the  walls  are  busts  of  benefactors  of  the  library. 

The  cabinets  and  glass-cases  contain  (1st  half   of  the  saloon)  early 
printed  in  France,   Holland,   Germany,   Italy,  and  Spain.  —  In 


Oiss  IX.  are  a  copy  of  the  first  printed  Bible  (dated  1456  and  perhaps 
ftOM  the  press  of  Gutenberg)  and  a  psalter  by  Fust  and  SchOflfer  (1457).  — 
XXyiX-Xl:iX. :  books  printed  at  Paris,  many  of  them  with  miniatures.  Case 
VI,  In  tiie  middle  of  the  room,  contains  a  collection  of  costly  bindings, 
>Sde  for  the  Kings  of  France  and  celebrated  bibliophiles.  Many  are  from 
fte  Ubzvry  of  Jean  Grolier  (d.  1585) ,  who  introduced  the  Italian  love  of 
MisHe  hmding  into  France. 

Saeondhalf  of  the  gallery :  MSS.  from  the  5th  to  the  15th  century.  Cabinet 
X,  (lb  the  rijdit):  Portrait  of  John  H.,  le  Bon  C*.  ii^^^v  )Qft\o>N,  Iw.^^W 
VjjkthaoldMt  ealalo^e  o/«ieiibrary  (time  of  ChailesV.).  — 'X.VIf xct^^^ 
mkt  iTR  Ifmard's  Bittorpy  containing  the  text  of  t\ie  "kixitSk"  o^^^  \.^t^ 


190  6.   BIBLIOTHJfcQUE  NATIONALE. 

at  Strassburg  in  842,  the  oldest  monument  of  the  French  langaage  (10th 
cent.)}  187.  Album  of  Villctrs  cTHonnecourt ,  the  architect  (Idth  cent.); 
191.  Acta  of  the  Templar  Trial  of  13u»;  1»6.  Acta  of  the  trial  of  Joan  of 
Arc.  —  XII.  MSS.  of  Italy,  Spain,  England,  and  Germany:  139.  Genoese 
Annals  of  Caffaro  (12-13th  cent.)}  144.  Petrarch'*  ^De  viris  iJluslribus'  (L4th 
cent.);  147.  Dante^i  'Divina  Commedia'  (14th  cent.).  —  XIII.  Latin  MSS.  : 
102.  Livy  (5th  cent.)-,  no  number,  wax  tablets  with  accounts  of  the  13-14th 
centuries.  —  XIV.  Mexican  MSS.  —  XV.  Oriental  and  American  MSS.  — 
XVII.  Greek  MSS.  —  XIX.  Illuminated  MSS.  —  XX.  MSS.  formerly 
belonging  to  kings  and  queens  of  France,  including  the  Gospels  of  Charle- 
magne^ Louis  the  Pioiu^  and  Loihaire.  —  Gases  XVI  XVIII,  »nd  XXXII. 
Autographs :  908.  Mary  Stuart;  803.  Du  Gueselin;  839.  Henri IV. ;  342.  Pascals 
*Pensees  sur  la  Keligion^}  344.  Bossuet  (Sermons^);  Sib  Finelon  (^Tcl^ 
maque');  Rousseau;  Voltaire;  Mme.  deBivigni;  Racine ;  Motive ;  Comeille. — 
XXX,  XXXI.  Sumptuous  bindings  of  the  middle  ages,  adorned  with 
ivory,  jewels,  bronze,  and  chains. 

At  the  end,  to  the  right,  is  the  work-room  of  the  Section  des 
Cartes  et  CoUectioru  OiograpJUques, 

The  *Gabin6t  des  Mi^DAiiiLBs  bt  Antiques  (admission,  see 
p.  188J  has  an  entrance  of  its  own  in  the  Rue  de  Richelieu ,  the  door 
beyond  the  police-station  when  approached  from  the  Boulevards, 
and  the  first  when  approached  from  the  Palais-Royal  (visitors  ring). 
It  contains  an  extensive  collection  of  Medals  (200,000)  and  Antiques, 
comprising  gems,  intaglios  and  cameos,  small  works  of  art,  glass, 
vases,  arms,  and  other  curiosities. 

Vestibule.  On  the  wall  at  the  back:  Zodiacal  Monument  from  the 
Temple  of  Dendera^  Egypt,  a  work  of  the  Roman  empire.  On  the  left  the 
Chamber  of  the  Kings  from  Kamak,  constructed  by  Thotmes  III.  (18th  Dy- 
nasty), with  important  inscriptions. 

On  the  Staikuass  and  in  the  Anteboou  (if  closed,  visitors  ring)  at  the 
top:  Stelee,  and  Greek  and  Latin,  Coptic  and  Phcenician  inscriptions.  — 
On  the  left  is  the  — 

Grande  Oalerie.  The  glass-cases  in  the  centre  are  subdivided  into 
sections,  from  left  to  right.  Case  I.  Cylinders  with  cuneiform  inscriptions, 
and  cut  gems  from  Assyria,  Chaldcea,  and  Persia:  also  antique  intaglios. 
In  the  centre  of  the  last  division,  second  row :  ^1815.  Achilles  playing  the 
lyre,  in  amethyst,  signed  Pamphilos.  —  Case  II. :  Intaglios  and  cameos 
of.  ancient,  mediaeval,  Renaissance ,  and  modern  times ,  most  of  them  in 
sardonyx  and  of  considerable  artistic  value.  Some  of  them  are  in  settings 
of  gold  or  enamel,  dating  from  the  time  when  they  were  regarded  with 
veneration  as  religious  amulets.  Among  others,  from  left  to  right:  3rd 
Division,  2391.  Jupiter  enthroned,  between  Mars  and  Mercnry,  in  cornelian ; 
2396.  Abundance  and  Peace^  crowned  by  genii,  in  sardonyx }  2404.  Jugurtha 
delivered  to  Sulla j  2337  (fifth  row,  to  the  left).  Cornelian  with  Baccha- 
nalian device,  said  to  have  been  used  as  a  seal  by  Michael  Angelo  (?). 
4th  Division,  third  row:  Engraved  portraits  by  Guay,  engraver  to  Mme. 
Pompadour  \  cornelian  seals.  6th  Division ,  *ml.  Analogies  of  the  Old  and 
New  Testaments^  a  cameo  of  the  16th  cent. ;  405.  Adoration  of  the  Magi^  a 
Flemish  work  of  the  16th  cent.  \  4'^6.  Venus  resisting  Ci^Hd  (modern).  6th  Di- 
vision, 687.  Augustus  7th  Division,  59d.  Negro  king^  765.  HeHogabatus; 
643-645  Battles;  612.  Fountain  of  Wisdom;  624,  626.  Alleged  Bracelets  of 
Diana  of  Poitiers^  each  composed  of  eight  cameos.  Renaissance  work.  8th 
Division,  780.  Francis  I.;  S26  Louis  XV.,  by  Guay;  944.  Seal  of  Louis  XV., 
with  portrait  of  Mme.  de  Pompadour  inside;  above  Francis  I.,  ^7,  788. 
Louis  XV.  and  Etnri  IV.  in  an  emerald  setting  from  a  bracelet  of  Mme.  de 
Pompadour  i  7i6.  Henri  IV.;  to  the  leff,  •789.  Henri  IV.  and  Marie  deMidicis, 
*iell  on  sardonyx;  above,  977.  Charles  F.  and  Ferdinand  /.;  below,  Zotfi« 
^y/I ,'  926.  Louis XIV,  —  Casb  III  (continuation  of  the  cameos):  lit  Divi- 
eion,  *3(J&  Triumph  o/Udniut;  274.  Olaudxw.  ^nd  Division,  238.  Auguttus, 
4th  Division,  79.  Bacchus  and  Ariadne,  iuaaeUxng  eutVcY^^wYVti  ^^wU. 


6.    BIBLIOTHfeQUE  NATION  ALE.  191 

Cabb  VI,  at  the  window,  which  should  be  inspected  next,  contains  the 
best  antique  cameos,  placed  here  for  the  sake  of  the  light.  1st  Division : 
*926.  Alexander  (he  Great^  with  Athena  ^  242,  244.  JuliOy  daughter  of  Augustus  •, 
between,  2c:0.  Agrippina  (he  Yovnger,-  276.  Cluvdive  ond  Meualina^  aa-  Triyto- 
lemua  and  Ceres,  in  a  chariot  drawn  by  two  dragon?  \  243.  JtUia^  daughter 
of  Angustns,  with  the  attributes  of  Ceres ^  *2£>1.  Tiberius;  270.  Clauditu; 
*3Sk).  Alexander  tJie  Or  eat,  with  helmet,  translucent  agate  in  a  ma^nillcent 
iBth  cent,  mounting  of  enamelled  gold;  2<7.  Mttsalna  with  her  children; 
aea  Dmaus  (he  Elder;  *289.  Trajan;  ^dlK).  Septitnive  Severus  and  hU  Family; 
*S66.  ApotheoiU  of  Oermanicus.  —  2nd  Division  (mythological  8ul>jects): 
*1.  JupiUr^  one  of  the  most  valuable  cameos  in  ttie  collection,  with  a 
mapUfieent  mounting  of  the  14th  cent.;  above,  *11.  Jftno^  notable  for 
ddieaey  of  workmanship  and  beauty  of  material;  below,  *27.  Dispute 
h%iW9en  Minerva  and  Neptune.  To  the  left,  8.  Europa  on  the  bull;  '148. 
Hortu  of  Pelops;  *17.  Minerva;  ^116.  Amphitrite  on  a  marine  monster;  31. 
JHana.  To  the  right,  97.  Centaur,  *184.  JiuU;  HI.  Mercury;  41.  Apollo  and 
Mareyae;  48.   Venue  in  the  bath. 

Cask  IV,  in  the  centre  of  the  hall,  contains  the  greatest  treasures  of 
the  eolleeUon.  Goblet  of  sardonyx,  known  as  the  Cup  of  the  Ptolemies^  with 
Bacchic  reliefs,  from  the  treasury  of  St.  Denis;  twelve  antique  gold 
medilf  $  Cup  of  Choeroee  /.,  King  of  Persia  (d.  579),  composed  of  medallions 
of  rock-crystal  and  glass  colours,  with  Chosroes  enthroned  in  tne  centre, 
also  from  the  treasury  of  St.  Denis,  where  it  was  known  as  the  Cup  of 
BolomoB^;  Roman  necklace  and  medallions,  in  gold;  Tr4tor  de  Oourdon^ 
»  tray  and  flagon  of  massive  gold  (6th  cent),  found  at  the  village  of  Oour- 
dOB  (Cdte  d''Or),  an  interesting  memorial  of  early  Christian  times.  Auguetu*, 
antique  sameo  in  mediceval  setting.  *  Apotheosis  of  Oermanicus  (^Cam^e  de 
la  Ste.  ChapeUe"),  the  largest  cameo  in  the  world,  consisting  of  a  sardonyx 
nearly  1  ft.  in  height,  with  twenty-six  figures.  *  Medal  of  Euci^tides,  Greek 
king  of  Baetriana,  found  in  1867,  the  heaviest  coin  known;  weighing  6  oz. 
or  tweaty  times  the  weight  of  a  Greek  stater.  Antique  Ship  in  sardonyx, 
with  mediaeyal  mounting ;  Julia,  daughter  of  Titus,  aquamarine  in  mediaeval 
•atting.  *F\ath'e  de  Eennes.  a  cup  of  massive  gold,  found  near  Kennes  in 
1774,  with  reliefii  representing  the  drinking-contest  of  Bacchus  and  Her- 
colea  (triumph  of  wine  over  strength),  and  bordered  with  sixteen  medallions 
of  BomaB  emperors  of  the  family  of  the  Antonines  from  Hadrian  to  Geta, 
■on  of  Septimius  Severus.  Two  small  Roman  busts  in  agate  and  gold; 
Qolden  omamenta  from  Etruria ;  Bust  of  Constantine  I.  (?)  in  agate ;  Tr^sor  de 
Torse  ^  four  gold  medals.  The  remaining  divisions  of  the  case  contain 
antique  gold  trinkets,  cameos  (^44.  Judgment  of  Paris),  gold  seals,  and 
Italic  sad  early  Roman  coins. 

A  Cask  (unnumbered)  at  the  adjoining  window  contains  a  map  with 
tsatly  French  coins  arranged  on  it  geographically. 

Cabkb  VII,  VIII  (in  the  middle).  Koman  and  Byzantine  medals,  Roman 
and  Italic  copper  coins,  Greek  cuius  and  medals  from  Lower  Italy,  Greece, 
and  Bgypt.  —  Cass  IX.  Interesting  coins  of  the  middle  ages,  the  Re- 
nalwanee,  and  modem  times.  —  Case  X.  Small  Bronzes:  816.  Warrior; 
1(X)9.  Kegro  boy;  316.  Hermes;  426.  Dancing  Satyr;  1157.  Cow. 

The  cabinets  ranged  along  the  wall  opposite  the  windows  contain 
a  fine  series  of  Bronze  Statuettes  and  other  Small  Brontes  (including  antique 
nteneils  and  armA),  specimens  of  ancient  Glass,  and  a  choice  collection  of 
Ghreek  Painted  Vases  (the  largest  in  the  middle,  with  an  archaistic  Athena). 
—  The  cabinet  on  the  following  wall  contains  small  Greek  Terracotta 
Figures.  Ko.  703.  ^Caillou  Miehaux'*,  an  ovoid  stone  with  cuneiform  inscrip- 
tions, the  most  valuable  Babylonian  monument  of  the  kind  (1120  B.C.). 
Silver  disc,  nearly  2Vs  ft.  in  diameter,  known  as  the  ''Bouclier  de  Scipion\ 
with  reliefs  representing  the  abduction  of  Briseis.  It  was  found  in  the 
Rhone,  near  Avignon,  in  1656,  and  probably  dates  from  the  fourth  cent,  of 
our  era.  Another  smaller  disc,  representing  Hercules  slaying  the  Nemean 
lion.  —  Gasb  V  (in  front)  oonti>ins  the  recent  acquisitions. 

The  Balle  du  Duo  de  Lnynea  (see  p.  864) ,  to  the  t\^\x\.  qI  \\3l«.  kd\.^- 
chamber,  contains  a  choice  coJJection  of  antique  coVns^  \Tv^,«k^\Q«.,^«.xsv^^%^ 
weMpoag,  Mad  terracottas,  bequeathed  by  the  duke,  w\vo  w«.e  *.  <i«\^^«N-^^ 


192  6.   BIBLIOTHfiQUE  NATIONALE. 

antiquarian  (d.  1867).  In  the  centre,  a  beautiful  torso  of  Venus  in 
Parian  marble.  Cabinet  to  the  right:  antique  weapons  and  a  handsome 
Moorish  sword  of  the  end  of  the  15th  cent.,  said  to  have  belonged  to 
Boabdil.,  the  last  king  of  Granada.  —  Adjacent  is  the  — 

Salle  de  la  Benaissance.  Cabinet  I,  to  the  right;  interesting  Objects 
in  Ivory ^  consular  diptychs  (presented  by  consuls  to  senators),  of  the 
6-6th  cent.;  large  French  medals;  sword  of  honour  of  the  grand-master 
of  the  Maltese  order,  with  enamelled  gold  hilt  (16th  cent.) ;  medallion  of  a 
woman,  by  Mino  da  Fiesole  (16th  cent.);  bronze  Moorish  vases  —  Central 
Case,  above:  ivory  bridal  coffer  (Italian;  i4th  cent.);  two  enamelled 
croziers  of  the  13th  and  15th  cent.;  enamelled  cup,  by  J.  (Sonrtois  of 
Limoges ;  silver-gilt  ewer  of  the  16th  cent. ;  wood-carving  of  St.  Anthony, 
by  Lucas  van  Leyden;  silver  casket  of  Franz  von  Sickingen,  with  reliefs 
(early  16th  cent.};  rook,  said  to  have  belonged  to  a  set  of  chessmen  sent 
by  Haroun-al-Baschid  to  Charlemagne ;  seals  of  the  University  of  Paris 
(13th  ceut.),  of  Louis  XII.,  etc. ;  ornaments  and  enamels ,  including  fine 
hat-ornaments  of  the  16th  century.  Behind,  lai^e  and  fine  medals  of  the 
16-I7th  cent.,  and  articles  found  in  1653  in  a  tomb  conjectured  to  be  that  of 
Childeric  I.  (d.  481).  —  Cabinet  II.  Medallions  by  David  d' Angers;  an- 
tique and  Byzantine  ivory  carvings ;  the  large  ^Sobieski  Vase*,  with  ivory 
carving  of  the  battle  of  Vienna  in  1683.  On  the  other  side  of  the  room 
the  so-called  Throne  ofDagohert^  claiming  to  date  from  the  7th  century.  — 
The  last  room  is  the  — 

Salle  des  Donateurs,  containing  the  Collectiom  Jami,  Oppermann,  and 
Pauvert  de  la  Gfuxpelle,  consisting  of  ancient  statuettes  in  bronze,  terracotta, 
a  few  vases,  and  cameos.  Among  the  chief  objects  in  the  Collection  Janz^, 
to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  are:  623.  Aristeeus;  below,  124.  Statuette 
of  a  dancing  girl,  in  terracotta;  927.  Small  replica  of  the  Diadumenos  of 
Polycletus ;  128.  Artemis ;  536.  Hercules.  —  The  lai^e  octagonal  glaas-ca^e 
in  the  centre  contains  a  chronologically  arranged  collection  of  French  med- 
als; also,  the  *  Treasure  of  Bernap^  consisting  of  67  silver  vessels  and 
two  statuettes  of  Mercury,  of  different  periods  and  varying  value,  from  a 
sacpllum  dedicated  to  Mercury,  found  at  Berthouville  (Eure)  in  1830.  The 
two  '^'Goblets  with  Bacchic  processions  and  other  two  with  single  figures 
are  among  the  best-preserved  specimens  extant  of  ancient  'silver- work. 
Above,  Bronze  head  of  the  Town-goddess  of  Paris,  found  at  Paris  in  1675. 

The  Rue  des  Petits-Gbamps,  which  skirts  the  fiiblicthdqxie  on 
the  S.,  or  the  side  next  the  Palais-Royal,  passes  the  end  of  the  Rue 
Yivienne  and  of  the  Passage  Vivitnne^  also  on  the  left,  and  termin- 
ates at  the  Rue  de  la  Banque  (p.  193). 

In  the  Rne  de  la  Vrillidre,  leading  to  the  right  beyond  the  Rue 
des  Petits-Ohamps,  is  the  Banque  de  France,  enclosed  by  four  dif- 
ferent streets.  It  was  formeriy  a  private  mansion  (H6M  VriUiireJ 
and  contains  a  handsome  apartment  of  the  18th  cent,  called  the 
Oalerie  Dorie,  which  may  be  visited  on  application. 

The  Bank  of  France  is  not  a  state-institution,  but,  like  the  Bank  of 
England,  is  a  private  joint-stock  bank,  though  subject,  of  course,  to  the 
control  of  the  government.  It  has  the  sole  right  of  issuing  notes  in  France, 
and  transacts  all  ordinary  banking  business  on  a  verv  extensive  scale.  The 
cellars  contain  bullion,  diamonds,  and  other  valuables,  worth  in  all  sev- 
eral milliards  of  francs.  These  repositories  are  constructed  in  a  very  mas- 
sive style  and  are  guarded  with  most  elaborate  precaution.  The  Bank  of 
France  ranks  among  the  first  establishments  of  its  kind  in  the  world. 
The  business  transacted  here  in  1899  amounted  to  the  sum  of  17  milliards 
of  franco  (nearly  700,000,000;.). 

A  narrow  side-street  leads  from  the  Bank  to  the  small  dicular 
Place  des  Viotoibbs  (PJ.  R,  21  •,  ///),  about  85  yds.  in  diameter, 
designed  by  J.  H,  Mansart^  and  coi\atiTic\.e^\ii\fi^.  ItwM  ori- 


6.  NOTRE-DAME-DES-VICTOIRES.  193 

glnally  called  the  Tlace  Lonis  XIY.*,  and  was  embellished  in 
1686  with  a  ^Ided  statae  of  that  monarch ,  with  the  inscription, 
*viro  immortaU\  The  monument,  with  the  exception  of  the  groups 
now  at  the  Inyalides  (p.  274),  was  destroyed  in  1792,  and  replaced 
1>7  ^  pyramid  inscribed  with  a  list  of  victories  gained  by  the  re- 
publican army,  from  which  the  Place  derives  its  present  name. 
The  pyramid  was  in  its  turn  displaced  in  1806  by  a  statae  of 
Oeneral  Desaix  (d.  1800),  which  in  1814  was  melted  down  along 
with  others  to  farnish  materials  for  the  statae  of  Henri  lY.  on  the 
Pont-Nenf  (jp.223).  The  present  clamsy  monament,  an  Equestrian 
Statue  of  Louis  XIV,,  in  bronze,  which  is  too  large  for  the  Place, 
was  erected  in  1822  by  Bosio,  The  rider  is  garbed  as  a  Roman 
general,  with  a  wig,  and  the  horse,  in  a  rearing  attitade,  rests  on 
the  hind-legs  and  tail,  in  imitation  of  Peter  the  Great*s  monument 
at  St.  Petersbarg.  The  reliefs  on  the  pedestal  represent  the  king's 
passage  of  the  Rhine,  and  the  distribution  of  military  honours. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Place  des  Victoires  the  Bue  des  Petits -Champs  is 
pirolonged  by  the  Bue  Etifnne-Marcel ^  which  crosses  the  Bue  du  Louvre, 
■kirta  the  oeutral  post  office  (p.  173),  and  is  continued  to  the  Boul.  de 
SdbastopoL 

A  few  paces  to  the  N.W.  of  this  Place  is  the  church  of  Notre- 
Dame-des-Yictoires ,  erected  in  1656-1740  to  commemorate  the 
taking  of  La  Rochelle,  the  chief  stronghold  of  the  Huguenots.  It  is 
now  the  seat  of  a  monastic  fraternity.  The  altar  of  the  Virgin  to 
the  right  of  the  choir,  which  is  the  object  of  special  veneration,  was 
despoiled  of  its  chief  treasures  by  the  Communards,  but  has  been 
richly  re-decorated.  The  walls  of  the  chapels  are  covered  with  vo- 
tive inscriptions  on  marble.  The  choir  contains  well  -  executed 
carved  woodwork  and  two  pictures  by  C.  Van  Loo  (d.  1746) :  an  Alle- 
gory of  the  capture  of  La  Rochelle,  and  scenes  from  the  life  of  St. 
Augustine.  In  the  second  chapel  to  the  left  is  the  tomb  of  Lulli 
(1633-87),  the  composer,  by  Cotton. 

The  Rue  de  la  Banque,  a  little  beyond  the  church,  to  the  right 
as  we  quit  the  latter,  leads  to  the  Bourse.  This  street  contains  three 
handsome  modern  edifices :  the  Mairie  of  the  2nd  Arrondissement 
(Bourse)  and  the  Caserne  de  la  Banque  on  the  right,  and  the  Hdtel 
du  Timbre  on  the  left.  The  Salle  des  Manages  of  the  Mairie  con- 
tains paintings  by  Moreau  de  Tours. 

The  ^Bourse,  or  Exchange  (PL  R,  21;  ///),  a  handsome  building 
in  the  Gneoo-Roman  style,  surrounded  by  a  series  of  64  Corinthian 
columns,  is  an  imitation  of  the  Temple  of  Vespasian  in  the  Fo- 
rum at  Rome.  It  was  begun  in  1808  by  Brongniart  (d.  1813),  and 
completed  in  1826  by  Labarre  (d.  1833).  Length  75  yds.,  width 
45  yds.,  height  100  ft. ;  columns  33  ft.  high,  and  31/3  ft.  thick. 
The  edifice  is  enclosed  by  a  railing,  and  approached  by  a  flight  of 
sixteen  steps  at  each  end.  At  the  corners  in  fiout  %.t^  «\X.^%<c^tv(a\. 
statues  of  Commerce  by  J,  Dumont  (d.  1844"),  mv^  C»QTi^\5\^t  "i^iA- 
SxKDSKXx,  Paris,  Uth  Edit,  \^ 


194  6.    THE  BOURSE. 

tice  by  Dwet  (d.  1865);  at  tlie  back,  Industry  by  Pradier  (d.  1852), 
and  Agriculture  by  Seurre  (d.  1858). 

The  hall  of  the  Bourse,  which  is  35  yds.  in  length,  and  19  yds.  in 
width,  is  opened  for  business  daily,  except  on  Sundays  and  holidays,  at 
12  o'clock.  A  few  minutes  before  that  hour  the  Place  begins  to  present 
a  busy  scene.  Numerous  vehicles,  chiefly  private  carriages,  drive  up,  and 
the  money-seeking  throng  hurries  into  the  building.  Business,  however, 
does  not  fairly  begin  till  about  half-past  twelve.  Even  under  the  Peristyle 
outside  (known  as  the  CouUsse  de*  Valeurs  en  Banqtte^^  business  is  animated, 
though  nothing  in  comparison  with  the  scene  within  the  hall.  The  parquei^ 
at  the  end  of  the  hall,  is  a  railed-off  space  which  the  sworn  brokers,  or 
agents  de  change,  are  alone  privileged  to  enter.  In  the  centre  of  this  part 
of  the  hall  is  the  corbeille^  a  circular  railed-off  space,  round  which  they 
congregate,  making  their  offers  in  loud  tones.  Various  groups  in  different 
parts  of  the  hall,  but  especially  near  the  parquet,  are  occupied  in  taking 
notes,  or  concluding  sales  or  purchases,  the  prices  being  regulated  by  the 
transactions  going  on  in  the  parquet,  while  other  persons  are  seen  handing 
instructions  to  the  brokers  within  the  parquet.  To  the  right,  not  far  from 
the  ^corbeille',  is  the  Marchi  au  Comptant  for  cash  transactions;  and  to 
the  left,  at  the  end  of  the  gallery,  is  the  Coulisse  de  la  Eente, 

The  tumultuous  scene  is  best  surveyed  from  the  gallery,  reached  from 
the  vestibule  by  two  staircases  ascending  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  large 
hall.  The  deafening  noise,  the  vociferations,  and  the  excited  gestures  of 
speculators,  produce  a  most  unpleasant  impression.  Amidst  the  Babel  of 
tongues  are  heard  the  constantly  recurring  words,  ^Tai .  .  .;  qui  est-ce  qui 
a  ,  .1;  Je  prends;  je  vends. '"' 

The  visitor  should  not  omit  to  observe  the  'grisailles^  on  the  vaulting, 
by  Abel  de  Pujol  (d.  1861)  and  Meynier.  They  represent  the  Inauguration 
of  the  Bourse  by  Charles  X.,  France  receiving  tribute  from  every  part  of 
the  globe,  the  Union  of  commerce  with  the  arts  and  the  sciences,  and 
the  Principal  Cities  of  France.  The  paintings  in  imitation  of  reliefs  are 
very  skilfully  executed. 

At  3  o'clock  the  business  of  the  stock-exchange  terminates,  the  brokers 
assemble  and  note  the  prices  realised  in  their  transactions,  and  in  ac- 
cordance with  these  they  adjust  the  share-list  for  the  day,  which  is  then 
immediately  printed  and  issued.  The  hall  remains  open  till  6  o'clock  for 
the  transaction  of  other  mercantile  business.  The  annual  amount  of  business 
transacted  in  the  Bourse  has  been  calculated  at  100  milliards  of  francs  or 
4,000,000,OCO;.     Telegraph  and  telephone  office,  see  p.  90. 

Adjacent  is  the  Boulevard  Montmartre  (see  p.  77).  —  The  wide 
Rue  Reaumur  (PI.  R,  21,  24;  ///)  leads  to  the  S.E.  to  the  Conserva- 
toire des  Arts  et  Metiers  (p.  175j. 

II.  FBOM  THE  BOUBBE  TO  NOTBE-DAME-SE-LOBETTE,  LA  TBI1IIT£ 
AND  THE  GABE  ST.  LAZABE. 

From  the  Place  de  la  Bourse  the  handsome  Rue  du  Quatre- 
Septembre  leads  to  the  W.  to  the  Place  de  I'Op^ra  (p.  78),  and  the 
Rue  Reaumur  to  the  E.  towards  the  Conservatoire  des  Arts  et  Me- 
tiers (p.  175).  The  Rue  Vivienne^  running  from  the  Palais-Royal 
(p.  60)  past  the  front  of  the  Bourse,  continues  in  the  same  direction 
to  the  Boulevard  Montmartre  (p.  77).  Turning  to  the  left,  we  reach 
the  Boulevard  des  Italiens  in  a  few  minutes,  -whence  ve  enter  the 
Rue  Drouoty  to  the  right. 

No.  9  in  this  street  is  the  H6tel  des  Ventes  Mohililres^  a  large 
public  auction'Toonif  the  'Christie  and  Manson's*  of  Paris,  where 
^-xtenaive  sales  of  works  of  art  take  place  iii  -^jVatw  %.t1  ij.m.   Con- 


6.  NOTRE-DAME-DE-LORETTE.  195 

■iderable  experience  is  necessary  to  make  purchases  here  with 
advantage,  and  the  stranger  is  warned  against  entering  into  com- 
petition with  the  brokers,  who  are  always  ready  to  unite  against 
the  oommon  enemy.  —  The  chief  Book  Scdes  take  place  in  the  Salle 
SUvigtre^  Rue  des  Bons-Enfants  28,  near  the  Palais-Royal. 

No.  26  in  the  Rue  Drouot,  to  the  right,  is  the  Hdtel  du  Figaro^ 
or  *Figaxo*  office,  in  the  style  of  the  Spanish  Renaissance.  The 
statue  of  Figaro  is  by  Amy. 

We  then  cross  the  handsome  modem  Rue  Lafayette  or  la  Fayette^ 
l^/i  M.  in  length,  which,  with  its  continuation,  the  Rue  d'AUe- 
magne  (1  M. ;  p.  201),  leads  straight  from  the  Op^ra  to  the  N.E. 
quarten  of  Paris. 

Ob  the  right  of  the  Rue  Lafayette,  near  this  puint,  is  the  office  of  the 
'AM/onmor  (No.  61),  which  claims  to  have  a  daily  circulation  of  1,100,000, 
<.«.  the  largeft  in  the  world. 

A  Bitle  farther  on  the  street  passes  the  pretty  Square  Montholon 
(PL  B,  3D,  embellished  with  two  bronie  groups :  Eagle  and  vulture  con- 
tendiag  for  the  carcase  of  a  bear,  by  Cain;  and  a  Mountebank  with  a 
monkey  (^Konnaie  de  singe'))  by  Rolard. 

A  little  beyond  the  Square  Montholon,  to  the  right,  diverges  the  Kue 
de  Chabroli  which  became  so  notorious  in  1899. 

A  few  yards  straight  on  is  the  junction  of  the  Rtie  de  Chdteau- 
dun  and  Ikie  de  Mauheuge,  two  other  modern  streets.  The  Rue  de 
Manbenge  leads  hence  to  the  Gare  du  Nord  (p.  200).  We  follow 
the  Rne  de  Ch&teaudun  to  the  left. 

The  ohuroh  of  *irotre-Dame-de-Lorette  (PI.  B,  21),  close  to  the 
'Ganefonr  de  ChlLteaudun',  is  situated  at  the  N.  end  of  tho  Rue 
Laffltte,  which  leads  to  the  Boulevard  des  Italiens.  It  was  erected  in 
1823-36  by  Hipp,  Lehat  in  the  simple  style  of  an  early-Christian 
basilica.  The  tympanum  of  the  Corinthian  portico  is  adorned  with 
figures  of  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity,  by  Foyatier^  Lemaire^  and  Laitii. 

The  Ihtbriob  is  more  elaborately  decorated  than  the  character  of 
a  basilica  would  warrant.  The  *^Frescoes  in  the  four  corner-chapels  arc, 
however,  admirable  in  their  classical  restraint.  To  the  right  are  the  Bap- 
tistry, by  A.  Roger  (ca.  1834),  and  the  Chapil  of  the  Eucharist,  by  Perin 
(1852);  to  the  left  are  the  Mortuary  Chapel,  by  Blondel,  and  the  Chapel  of 
the  Virgin,  by  Onel,  —  The  smaller  chapels  contain  paintings  by  Hessey 
Johemnoty  Deviria,  Schnetz^  and  others.  —  The  frescoes  in  the  nave  and  on 
the  triumphal  arch  represent  the  Four  Major  Prophets  and  scenes  from 
the  life  of  the  Virgin,  by  Dubois^  Monvoisin,  and  others.  —  In  the  choir: 
OR  the  left,  Presentation  in  the  Temple,  by  Heim-,  on  the  right,  Jesus 
teaching  in  the  Temple,  by  Jh'olling.  In  the  apse :  Madonna  enthroned  and 
(dome)  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  by  Ficot.  In  the  spandrels,  the  Evan- 
gelists, by  Delorme.  —  Fine  music  at  the  evening-services  in  May  (the  Ma- 
donna's month). 

Between  the  churches  of  Notre-Dame-de-Lorette  and  La  Trinite,  in 
the  Eue  de  La  Eochefoucauld,  No.  14,  is  the  Mus^e  Gustave  Moreau.  con- 
taining about  700  paintings  (some  of  them  unfinished)  and  4000  drawings  by 
the  painter  of  that  name  (not  yet  open  to  the  public,  but  shown  on  appli- 
catlon.on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.). 

,  The*"  Rue  de  Ohateaudun  leads  from  Notre-Dame-de-Lorette 
to'ithe  W.  to  the  Square  de  la  Trinity  (p.  196),  traversing  the  N 
of  the  Quartier  de  la  Chaussee-d'Antm^  one  oi  tVi^  \i«LTv^?.QT£i^^\.  t^w- 


196  6.    LA  TRINITY. 

tral  districts  of  the  city,  with  the  Opera  House,  several  of  the  prin- 
cipal banks,  and  some  of  the  large  hotels.  It  owes  its  name  to  the 
Rue  de  la  Ghauss^e-d^Antin,  between  the  church  of  La  Trinity  and 
the  Boul.  des  Capuciues. 

""La  Trinity  (PI.  B,  18),  a  church  in  the  latest  Renaissance 
style,  was  built  by  Ballu  in  1861-67.  In  front  of  it  is  the  small 
Square  db  la  Tbinit:^,  adorned  with  three  fountains  and  statues 
of  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity,  executed  by  Lequesne  from  designs  by 
Duret.  The  facade  has  a  porch  with  three  large  arches,  above  which 
rises  an  elegant  story  with  a  gallery  and  a  rose  of  open-work ,  sur- 
mounted by  a  clock-tower  206  ft.  in  height,  flanked  with  two  lan- 
terns.  Over  the  doors  of  the  porch  are  enamel-paintings  by  Baize, 

The  Intebiok  consists  of  a  large  nave  with  two  low  aisles  flanked  with 
chapels.  KTave  and  aisles  are  separated  by  handsome  columns  alternating 
with  pillars,  which  are  embellished  with  statues  of  the  Apostles.  The 
gallery  over  the  aisles  projects  into  the  choir.,  below  which  is  a  crypt. 
Over  the  high-altar  rises  a  tasteful  canopy.  The  apse  is  occupied  by  a 
large  chapel  richly  decorated;  Madonna  (in  marble)  by  P.  DviboiSy  paint* 
ings  by  Em,  Livy  and  Elie  Delaunay,  and  stained  glass  by  Oudinot.  The 
nave  and  the  other  chapels  are  also  adorned  with  paintings ;  those  in  the 
nave  are  by  Johhi- Duval;  those  in  the  chapels  on  the  right  by  Bristet 
(Intercession  for  the  souls  in  Purgatory,  Depositon  in  the  Tomb).  Leeomte 
du  Nouy  (St.  Vincent  de  Paul),  F.  Barrias  (St.  Genevieve),  and  Laugie 
(St.  Denis)  ^  those  on  the  left  by  Bug,  Thirion  (Childhood  of  Jesus),  Rom. 
Gates  (Christ  and  saints),  Mich,  Dumas  (Pietk  and  Prayer  to  the  Madonna), 
and  L.  Frangais  (Baptism  of  Christ,  Expulsion  from  Eden),  l^ear  the  side 
entrances  are  elegant  ^b^nitiers",  surmounted  with  marble  statues  of  In- 
nocence and  Purity  by  Oumery.  —  La  Trinity  has  a  good  choir  and  organ. 
M.  Guilmant  is  the  organist. 

The  Bue  de  Clichy,  to  the  left  of  the  church,  runs  to  the  Place  de 
CAichy  (p.  209),  passing  the  Casino  de  Paris  (p.  86). 

The  Rue  St.  Lazare,  continuing  the  Rue  de  Ghateaudun  beyond 
La  Trinity,  leads  in  a  few  minutes  to  the  Gare  St.  Lazare. 

The  Hue  de  Londres,  to  the  ^.W.  of  the  Place,  leads  almost  straight 
to  the  Pare  Monceaux  (p.  19S),  via  the  curiously  shaped  Place  ds  V Europe 
(PI.  B,  18),  formed  by  the  junction  of  six  streets  above  the  line  of  the 
Chemin  de  Fer  de  TOuest,  behind  the  Gare  St.  Lazare. 

The  Gare  St.  Lazare  (PI.  B,  18),  which  is  reached  from  the 
Boulevards  more  directly  via  the  Rue  Auber  and  Rue  du  Havre, 
is  a  large  and  handsome  building,  remodelled  in  1886-89  on 
plans  by  Lisch.  It  consists  of  two  main  parts,  connected  by  a  long 
waiting-room,  and  of  the  HStel  Terminus  (p.  3}  in  front,  facing  the 
street,  and  concealing  the  rest.  The  pavilion  in  the  Rne  d' Amster- 
dam is  for  the  main  line  traffic,  the  other  part,  in  the  Rue  de  Rome, 
for  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Geinture  and  for  the  Lignes  de  Banlieue. 


6.    OHAPELLE  EXPIATOIRE.  197 

m.    7A0K  THB   GABS   ST.  LAZASE   TO  ST.  AUaXTBTIM  AKO  THE 

PABO  KONOEAUX. 

Lea  B&tignolles. 

We  now  follow  the  Rue  du  Havre,  opposite  the  station  on  the 
Bne  d' Amsterdam  side,  to  the  Boulevard  Haussmann.  To  the  left 
in  the  Rne  dn  Havre  are  the  Lycie  Condorcet^  and,  farther  on,  the 
handsome  Magasina  du  Printemps  (p.  40). 

The  Boulevard  Haussmann  (^Pl.  B,  18, 15;  11\  one  of  the  im- 
posing modem  thoroughfares  of  Paris,  owes  its  name  to  Baron  Haus- 
manfi,  prefect  of  the  Seine  in  1853-69  and  chief  promoter  of  the 
grand  transformation  of  modem  Paris.  It  is  continued  to  the 
fl*/4  M.)  Arc  de  Triomphe  de  I'Etoile  (p.  158)  by  the  Avenue  de 
Fiiedland.  If  continued  for  300  yds.  in  the  other  direction  to  the 
Boulevard  Montmartre,  between  the  Rne  Taitbout  and  the  Rue 
Piouot,  it  would  form  the  most  direct  route  from  that  neighbourhood 
to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  We  follow  the  Boul.  Haussmann  to  the 
right  as  far  as  a  square,  in  the  middle  of  which  stands  the  — 

ChapeUe  Expiatoire  (PI.  B,  18 ;  //),  erected  in  1820-26,  from 
designs  by  Percier  and  Fontaine,  to  the  memory  of  Louis  XVI.  and 
Marie  Antoinette,  on  the  site  of  the  old  cemetery  of  the  Madeleine, 
where  their  remains  lay  from  1793  to  1815,  when  they  were  removed 
to  the  royal  vault  at  St.  Denis.  In  front  of  the  chapel  is  a  court 
flanked  with  galleries  in  imitation  of  ancient  tombs,  and  intended  as 
a  monument  to  other  victims  of  the  Revolution.  The  chapel  is  in  the 
form  of  a  Greek  cross,  with  a  portico,  and  is  covered  with  a  dome. 
The  entrance  is  in  the  Rue  Pasquier;  best  time  for  a  visit  12-4  (fee). 

The  IvTBBioB  contains  two  groups  in  marble.  That  on  the  right,  hy 
Bosio^  represents  Louis  XVI.  and  an  angel  who  addresses  him  with  the 
words,  '•Filt  de  8t.  Louis,  montez  au  dell''  Below  is  inscribed  the  king'^s 
will.  The  group  on  the  left,  by  Cortot,  represents  the  Queen  supported 
bv  Beligion,  a  figure  which  bears  the  features  of  Madame  Elizabeth,  the 
Idng^s  sister,  who  was  guillotined  on  12th  May,  1794.  Inscribed  on  the 
monument  is  the  last  letter  addressed  by  the  queen  to  her  sister-in-law 
(eomp.  p.  212).  —  Over  the  portal  is  an  allegorical  relief  by  Lemaire^  re- 
ferring to  the  removal  of  the  ashes  to  St.  Denis.  —  Staircases  on  each 
Wde  of  the  altar  descend  to  a  crypt,  which  occupies  the  ground  where 
Louis  XVI.  was  originally  interred. 

Farther  on,  the  Boul.  Haussmann  intersects  the  Boulevard  Malts- 
herhes,  another  imposing  street ,  extending  from  the  Madeleine  to 
the  fortifications  (1^/4  M.).  —  To  the  right  in  this  boulevard  rises 
the  church  of  St.  Augustin  (PI.  B,  15),  built  by  Baltard  in  1860- 
68,  in  a  modernised  Romanesque  style.  The  building  is  in  the  form 
of  an  irregular  triangle,  towards  the  base  of  which  rises  a  dome 
80  ft.  in  diameter  and  165  ft.  in  height,  crowned  with  an  elegant 
lantern,  and  flanked  with  four  dome-covered  turrets.  The  portal  con- 
sists of  three  arches  surmounted  by  a  kind  of  gallery  containing 
statues  of  Christ  and  the  Apostles,  by  Jouffroy,  above  which  ate  a 
lose-window  and  a  triangular  pediment.  T^e  piW^-i^  «tei  ^"s^Q  «a^- 
'belUabed  with  statues  of  prophets  and  doctois  ot  t\ife  c^T\.Tci\i.. 


198  6.    PARC  MONOEAUX. 

Intbbior.  The  churcli  has  no  aisles ,  properly  so  called.  The  naye 
preserves  its  width  the  whole  way  back,  while  the  increasing  width  of 
the  triangle  is  filled  with  chapels  increasing  in  depth  as  they  approach 
the  choir.  Above  are  galleries,  which  are  continued  under  the  dome. 
The  nave  is  covered  with  a  flat  ceiling ,  borne  by"  arcades  of  open 
iron-work,  and  the  columns  terminate  in  figures  of  angels.  The  high- 
altar,  standing  beneath  a  sumptuous  canopy,  is  placed  above  a  crypt, 
which  also  runs  under  the  nave.  The  very  short  transepts  terminate  in 
chapels.  In  the  nave  are  two  paintings  by  JO.  Maitktrt:  Baptism  of  St. 
Augustine  (on  the  left).  Death  of  St.  Monica  (on  the  right).  The  mural  paint- 
ings are  by  Bignol  (in  the  cupola),  Bouguereau^  and  Briiset;  the  stained 
glass  by  Marichal  and  Lavergne.  —  The  organist  is  M.  E.  Gigout. 

In  front  of  the  church  is  a  Monument  to  Joan  of  Arc  by  Paul  Duhoit. 
Adjacent  is  a  bronze  group  by  Mombur^  representing  'A  Rescue'. 

About  500  yds.  farther  on,  the  Boul.  Malesherbes  passes  to  the 
right  of  the  Pare  Monceaux,  before  reaching  the  outer  Boulevards. 
The  park  may  also  be  reached  by  returning  to  the  Boul.  Haussmann 
and  following  it  to  the  right,  to  the  Avenue  de  Messine,  which  leads 
the  N.W.  towards  the  Pare  Monceaux.  A  bronze  statue  of  Shake- 
speare,  by  Paul  Fournier  (1888),  stands  at  the  point  of  divergence. 

The  *2axe  Monceaux,  or  Pare  de  Monceau  (PL  B,  15},  enclosed 
by  a  very  handsome  railing,  has  four  entrances  (see  Plan),  the  chief 
of  which  is  in  the  Boul.  de  Courcelles,  where  a  small  rotunda,  from 
the  former  Barridre  de  Ghartres,  has  been  placed.  This  park  has 
no  pretension  to  vie  with  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  or  even  the  Buttes- 
Ghaumont,  but  it  affords  a  pleasant  and  refreshing  oasis  in  the 
midst  of  a  populous  quarter  of  the  city. 

The  park  owes  its  name  to  a  property  bought  in  1778  by  Philippe 
d^Orl^ans,  surnamed  Egalit^,  father  of  Louis  Philippe,  who  laid  it  out 
in  so  novel  and  attractive  a  style  that  it  soon  became  one  of  the  most 
fashionable  resorts  of  the  ^beau  monde*.  Balls,  plays ,  and  fStes  of  the 
most  brilliant  description  were  celebrated  here.  The  Revolution  converted 
the  park  into  national  property.  Napoleon  I.  presented  it  to  his  chan- 
cellor Gambacdr^s,  who,  however,  soon  restored  it  to  his  imperial  master, 
on  account  of  the  great  expense  in  which  it  involved  him.  At  the  Re- 
storation it  again  became  the  property  of  the  house  of  Orleans,  and  was 
employed  in  1848  for  the  'national  ateliers^.  At  length  it  was  purchased 
by  the  city  of  Paris,  and  upwards  of  25  acres  of  it  were  sold  by  the 
municipality  for  building  purposes,  while  the  remaining  22^/i  acres  were 
converted  into  a  public  park,  tastefully  laid  out  in  the  English  style. 

The  park  retains  a  few  relics  of  its  old  attractions ,  such  as  the 
Naumdchie,  an  oval  piece  of  water,  flanked  with  a  semicircular 
Gorinthian  colonnade,  and  adorned  with  a  statue  of  Hylas,  in 
bronze,  by  Morice.  Not  far  off  is  a  Monument  to  Ouy  de  Maupassant 
(1850-93),  the  author,  by  Verlet.  Among  the  other  sculptures  with 
which  the  park  is  embellished  are  the  Young  Faun,  by  F.  Charpen- 
tier;  the  Abandoned,  by  Comw^  to  the  right  of  the  main  walk.  Boy 
playing  with  marbles,  by  Lenoir-^  to  the  left,  the  Snake-Gharmer, 
by  B.  de  la  Vingirie;  Wounded  lioness,  by  Valton]  farther  on,  to 
the  right,  Wounded  Gupid,  by  Mabille ;  to  the  left,  the  Sower,  by 
Chapu ;  to  the  right,  the  Mower,  by  Gumery ;  behind,  the  Reaper, 
Af  (?audez.  Monuments  are  also  to  be  erected  here  to  Ambr.  Tho- 
mas  Ci8iU96),  the  composer,  by  Fa\gul^i^\  to  Gounod  (1818-93), 


6.  BATIGNOLLES.  199 

the  composer,  by  Merci^j  to  Chopin  (1809-49),  the  composer;  and 
to  Corot  (1796-1826),  the  painter. 

From  the  gate  of  the  Pare  Monceanx  facing  the  Avenue  Hoche,  at  the 
end  of  which  the  Arc  de  rEtoile  is  risible,  we  observe  the  gilded  domes 
of  the  ^Bussian  Ohurch  (PI.  B,  12),  in  the  Bue  Daru.  This  church  was 
built  in  1869-61  in  the  Byzantine-Muscovite  style,  from  a  design  by  Kouz- 
min€f  and  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross.  The  handsome  porch  is  covered 
with  a  gilded  dome  and  surmounted  with  five  pyramids,  that  in  the  centre 
being  lo6  ft.  in  height,  and  all  of  them  terminating  in  gilded  cupolas  with 
Buasian  crosses.  The  church  is  open  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.,  '6-6  o'clock. 
The  figures  which  adorn  the  *ikonostas\  representing  Christ,  the  Virgin, 
and  several  Bussian  saints,  were  painted  by  the  brothers  Sorokine  and  by 
Brornniltoff*  The  rest  of  the  church  is  adorned  with  paintings  of  Scriptural 
subjects  by  the  same  artists  and  of  prophets  by  Vauilieff. 

At  No.  7  Avenue  Y^asqnez,  which  leads  from  the  park  to  the 
Boulevard  Malesherbes,  is  the  Mus^e  Cernuschi,  bequeathed  along 
with  the  house  containing  it  to  the  city  of  Paris  by  Mons.  H.  Ger- 
nosehi  (1821-96),  a  Milanese  financier.  The  museum  consists  of  a 
yaluable  collection  of  Chinese  and  Japanese  works  of  art,  including 
upwards  of  2400  bronzes.  Keeper,  M.  Causae.  —  Admission,  see  p.  56. 

From  the  entrance  we  ascend  the  staircase  to  tbe  lef^,  leaving  sticks 
and  umbrellas.    In  tbe  hall  arc  a  few  bronzes. 

First  Floob.  Room  I  contains  a  portrait  of  the  founder,  furniture, 
kakemonos,  a  large  vape,  and  other  bronzes.  —  Room  II.  Figure  in  'bizon' 
(imitating  bronze)  and  other  pottery;  porcelain.  In  the  glass-case  in  tbe 
middle  are  picture-books.  —  Room  III,  Small  objects  in  ivory,  bric-a-brac, 
maskd.  —  Room  IV.  In  the  middle  is  a  seated  figure  of  Buddha,  14  ft. 
high,  from  near  Tokio.  In  front,  an  enamelled  censer  and  a  desk-case 
with  artistic  sword-guards.  On  tbe  window-side  are  three  statues  of 
Bnddha  and  a  large  censer  in  the  form  of  a  dragon.  Bound  three  sides  of 
the  room,  on  stands,  are  fine  Chinese  and  Japanese  bronzes,  some  of  great 
antiquity.  The  oldest  pieces  are  at  tbe  beginning  of  the  4th  wall.  The 
smaller  bronzes  are  in  tbe  glass-cases  of  tbe  gallery.  On  tbe  rear-wall  is 
a  beautifully  carved  wooden  balustrade.  —  Room  V.  In  tbe  middle  is  a 
porcelain  pagoda.  Vases  and  plates  in  coloured  porcelain.  —  Room  IV. 
Bronzes.  —  A  side-staircase  now  descends  to  tbe  Gkodnd  Floor,  where 
two  rooms  contain  Chinese  and  Japanese  porcelain  and  stoneware. 

The  Batignolles  quarter,  to  the  N.  of  the  Pare  Monceaux,  is  a  fa- 
Tourite  residence  for  artists,  and  contains  many  handsome  and  tasteful 
private  residences,  presenting  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  monotonous 
architecture  of  the  ordinary  streets  of  Paris.  The  traveller  will  find  it 
worth  while  to  inspect  the  Rue  Prony^  opposite  the  principal  entrance 
to  the  park,  and  several  of  the  side-streets  such  as  the  Rues  Fortuny 
and  Montchanin,  and  lastly  the  Avenue  de  Villiers  and  part  of  the 
Boul.  Malesherbes.  In  the  Place  Malesherbes  (PI.  B,  14)  is  a  hand- 
some mansion  in  the  style  of  the  16th  century.  In  the  gardens  flank- 
ing the  avenue  are  bronze  figures  of  the  Genius  of  Music,  by  Bailly, 
and  the  Grief  of  Orpheus,  by  Verlet,  Farther  on  is  a  bronze  Statue  of 
Dumas  the  Elder  (1824-1870),  designed  by  Gustavo  Dor^;  the  fine 
group  in  front  represents  Reading,  and  behind  is  a  Musketeer. 

In  the  neighbouring  Bue  de  Tocqueville  is  the  Ecole  des  Hautes  Etude* 
Commerciales,  in  front  of  which  is  a  small  square  with  a  bronze  statue, 
by  Moncel,  of  Alain  Chartier  (1383-1449),  tbe  poet. 

No.  145  in  the  Bonievard  Malesherbes   is  tlie  Lycie  Cannot  ^  ivcis^^'tV^ 
the  Ecole  Monge  (PL  B,  11-U).  an  cstabllshmeTit  foT\TiA^^  Vn  V^^^^^\>^«^^'«'=^ 


200  7.   ST.  LAURENT. 

pupils  for  the  government  schools.  Farther  to  the  N.  is  the  Place  Wagram 
(PI.  11),  embellished  with  a  hronze  statue,  hy  F.  de  St.  Vidal,  of  A.  de 
Neuville  (1835-1^85),  tbe  military  painter.  The  Place  is  situated  above  the 
Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture,  not  far  from  the  station  of  Courcelles-Cein- 
tare  (PI.  B,  11).  A  statue,  hy  A.  Boucher,  is  to  be  erected  in  tbe  vicinity 
to  Eugene  Flachat  (1802-73),  the  engineer. 

To  the  £.,  near  the  station  of  Batignolles,  is  the  Square  dee  Batignolles 
(PI.  B,  14),  one  of  the  largest  in  Paris.  It  has  two  fountains  and  hronze 
figures  of  Circe,  by  Michel^  *Le  Belluaire\  by  Ferrary^  etc. 

In  the  outer  boulevards,  to  the  E.  of  the  Pare  Monceaux,  we  pass  on 
the  right  the  College  Ohaptal  or  Goubaiue  (PI.  B,  14,  16),  a  building  con- 
structed by  Train  in  1866-72,  of  stone  and  bricks  of  different  colours,  and 
tastefully  decorated.    Farther  on  is  the  Place  de  Cliehy  (p.  209). 


7.  La  Yillette  and  Montmartre. 

Visitors  who  are  interested  in  the  market  at  La  Villette  will  see  it  to 
most  advantage  on  Monday  or  Thweday  morning  (omnibns  line  M; 
tramway  to  Pantin- and  Aubervilliers ;  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture),  and 
may  afterwards  visit  the  Buttes-Chaumont  and  other  adjacent  points.  — 
Luncheon  may  be  obtained  near  the  Gare  du  Kord  or  Gare  de  TEst  (see 
p.  18),  at  the  Buttes-Chaumont,  in  the  Bue  d''Allemagne,  near  the  market 
{e.g.  No.  188),  or  in  the  restaurant  at  the  market. 

I.  FKOM  THE  BOnLEVABOB  TO  LA  VILLETTE. 

St.  Laurent.    Oare  de  VEst.    Oare  du  Nord.    Buttes-Ohaumont.    Market 

and  Abattoirs  at  La  ViUette. 

We  leave  the  Grands  Boulevards  beyond  the  Porte  St.  Denis 
(p.  75),  and  follow  the  Boulevard  de  Strasbourg  (p.  75),  to  the 
left,  to  the  Gare  de  TEst.  On  the  right  is  the  Eldorado^  and  on  tbe 
left  the  Scala,  two  ^caf^s-conoerts'  (p.  36).  Before  reaching  the 
station  we  cross  the  Boulevard  de  Magenta^  about  ^/g  M.  from  the 
Place  de  la  R^publique  (p.  74). 

The  church  of  St.  Laurent  (PL  B,  24),  Immediately  to  the  right, 
was  founded  in  593,  but  has  been  repeatedly  rebuilt  and  restored. 
It  was  finally  remodelled  in  1865-66,  when  two  bays  were  added  to 
the  nave,  and  a  handsome  Gothic  facade  with  a  spire  was  con- 
structed towards  the  boulevard.  The  choir  was  decorated  by  Blondel 
(d.  1853),  and  the  high-altar  by  Lepautre,  In  the  S.  transept  is  a 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Lawrence,  by  Oreuze^  opposite,  St.  Lawrence 
among  the  poor,  by  TrezeL 

The  Gare  de  TEst,  or  de  Strasbourg  (PL  B,  24),  practically  re- 
built in  1896-99,  is  situated  opposite  the  end  of  the  Boulevard  de 
Strasbourg.  The  pavilions  projecting  on  each  side  are  connected 
by  a  colonnade,  on  the  balustrade  of  which  is  a  dock-dial  with  statues 
of  the  Seine  and  the  Rhine.   Trains,  hotels,  etc.,  see  pp.  26,  9. 

The  Rue  de  Strasbourg,  leading  to  the  W.  past  the  front  of  the 
station,  joins  the  Boulevard  de  Magenta,  which  brings  us  in  5  mln. 
to  the  wide  and  handsome  Rue  Lafayette  (p.  195). 

The  Chire  do  ITord  (PL  B,  24),  a  railway-station  constructed  in 
1863-64  bymttorff,  is  situated  a  ahoit  Ai^tanci^  ta  the  right.   The 


7.  BUTTES-CHAUMONT.  201 

pxtncipAl  part  of  the  extensive  facade,  which  is  170  yds.  in  length. 
Is  suxmoonted  by  a  pediment  crowned  with  statues  of  Paris  (in  the 
eentre)  and  of  eight  important  foreign  cities  connected  v/ith  Paris 
by  the  Ligne  da  Nord.  —  To  the  right  is  the  recently  rebuilt  Station 
of  tAc  Cdntture  (p.  27).  Lines  starting  hence,  see  p.  26;  hotels 
in  the  Yieinity,  see  p.  9. 

The  ehnreh  of  8t,  Vineent-de-Paul  (p.  203)  is  near  the  station;  its  facade 
l0  turned  towards  the  Bue  Lafayette. 

We  regain  the  Rue  Lafayette  by  following  the  street  that  leads 
to  the  E.  in  front  of  the  station,  and  continue  in  a  straight  direction, 
eiosfling  the  railway  from  the  Gare  de  TEst. 

The  Rue  Lafayette  ends  at  the  Boulevard  de  la  Villette,  near 
the  Oanal  St.  Martin.  On  the  left  we  observe  a  Botunda,  in  which 
is  the  Custom  House,  a  relic  of  an  old  gateway  erected  at  the  end 
of  last  century  by  Ledoux.  To  the  right,  behind  the  houses,  is 
the  Ba88ln  dt  la  Villette  (PI.  B,  26,  27),  a  harbour  and  reservoir 
(16  acres),  75  ft.  above  the  lowest  water-level  in  the  Seine.  It  is 
formed  by  the  Canal  de  I'Ourcq ,  which  connects  the  Ourcq,  an 
affluent  of  the  Mame,  with  the  Seine.  This  canal,  54  M.  long,  cuts 
off  "a  long  curve  formed  by  the  river,  while  the  Canal  St.  Denis  j 
2^2  ^'  long,  a  ramification  towards  the  N.E.,  shortens  the  water- 
route  between  the  Upper  and  Lower  Seine  by  10  M.  The  Canal  St. 
Martin  (p.  72"),  4  M.  long,  continues  the  Canal  de  TOurcq  to  the  S. 

The  basin  u  surrounded  by  extensive  warehonses,  which  serve  to  con- 
vey am  idea  of  tiie  commerce  carried  on  by  these  waterways  of  Paris.  Abont 
19U0  loaded  barges  enter  the  basin  monthly,  and  two-thirds  of  these  obtain 
retom-cai^es. 

The  basin  is  crossed  by  a  lofty  Foot  Bridge^  the  single  arch  of  which 
l&as  a  span  of  810  ft.  At  the  other  end,  in  the  Bue  de  Grim^e,  is  a  hy- 
dranlie  Draw  Bridge,  worked  by  the  water  of  the  canal. 

We  now  follow  the  Rue  d'AUemagne  as  far  as  the  broad  Avenue 
de  Laomidre,  which  leads  to  the  right  to  the  Buttes-Chaumont.  On 
the  left,  at  the  end  of  this  avenue,  is  the  large  Maine  of  the  19th 
Arrondissement^  a  modern  building  in  the  style  of  Louis  Xni.,  by 
Daviond  and  Bourdais.  The  Salle  des  Mariages  is  embellished  with 
paintings  by  Gervex  and  Blanchon. 

The  park  of  the  •Buttes-Chaumont  (PL  B,  30,  29)  lies  on  the 
N.E.slde  of  Paris,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  hill  of  Belleville.  It  extends 
in  the  form  of  an  irregular  crescent  over  an  area  of  about  55  acres, 
but  does  not  cover  the  whole  of  the  'buttes'  (hills),  part  of  which  is 
still  a  barren  waste  ('calvi  montes').  On  the  summit  of  these 
hills  once  rose  the  gibbet  of  Montfaucon,  where  numerous  crim- 
inals and  others  were  hanged.  The  gallows  was  removed  in  1761, 
and  the  place  afterwards  became  notorious  as  a  haunt  of  malefactors. 
About  the  year  1865  the  authorities,  induced  by  sanitary  consider- 
ations, began  to  remove  the  heaps  of  rubbish  accumulated  here,  and 
it  was  resolved  to  convert  this  ill-favoured  locality  into  a  park 
for  the  benefit  of  the  artizans  of  this  quaitei  ol  \.Ve  ^VV).  '^^^^ 
peenliar  nature  of  the  ground  afforded  an  opportamt^  ^il\vjvft%\\. 


202  7.  BUTTES-OHAUMONT. 

out  in  a  novel  and  pictnresqne  manner,  and  the  task  was  skilfully 
executed  by  M.  Alphand  (d.  1891),  the  engineer,  and  M,  BarUlet 
(d.  1874),  gardener-in-chief  of  Paris,  at  an  outlay  of  3,412,620  fr. 

The  quarries  formerly  worked  here  have  been  transformed 
into  a  rocky  wilderness  surrounded  by  a  small  lake,  while  the  ad- 
jacent rugged  surface  is  now  covered  with  gardens  and  walks  shaded 
by  trees.  A  cascade  falling  from  the  height  of  100ft.  into  an  arti- 
ficial stalactite  grotto  (formerly  the  entrance  to  the  quarries)  is 
intended  to  enhance  the  attractions  of  the  scene.  The  highest  rock 
(290  ft.)  is  surmounted  by  a  miniature  Corinthian  temple,  which 
commands  an  admirable  view  in  the  direction  of  St.  Denis ;  the  best 
•View  of  the  city  itself,  with  its  ocean  of  houses,  is  obtained  from 
the  second  summit  (330  ft.)  to  the  S.  An  Iron  cable  bridge,  70  yds. 
in  length,  crosses  from  one  of  the  rocks  to  another,  while  others  are 
connected  by  means  of  a  stone  arch,  so  as  to  facilitate  access  to  the 
different  points  of  interest.  The  temple  may  also  be  gained  by  a 
path  among  the  rocks,  reached  by  a  boat  across  the  lake  (5  c).  Here 
and  there  are  bronze  sculptures :  on  the  side  next  the  main  entrance, 
The  Rescue,  by  F,  Rolard;  Eagle-hunter,  by  Desca^  on  this  side  of 
the  large  bridge ;  Corsair,  by  Oge,  near  the  great  waterfall ;  Wolf 
Hunt,  by  Hiolin,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  park ;  nearer  the  side 
towards  the  city,  'Egalitaire'  ('Time,  the  Leveller),  by  Captier; 
beside  the  small  cascade  beyond  the  restaurant.  The  Ford,  by  C.  L«- 
fhvre.  —  The  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture  (p.  27)  is  carried  through 
the  E.  end  of  the  park  by  a  cutting  and  two  tunnels;  in  the  vicinity, 
the  Belleville-Villette  station  (see  Appx.,  p.  34). 

There  are  three  CafiM-RettauranU  in  the  park)  one  near  the  suspension- 
bridge,  one  on  the  8.  side  of  the  hill  (with  view  of  Paris),  and  one  above 
the  railway  cutting.  A  military  band  plays  here  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.  in 
summer. 

In  1871  the  Buttes-Cbaumont  was  one  of  the  last  positions  occupied 
by  the  insurgents,  who  held  their  ground  here  till  May  27th,  when  they 
were  driven  out  by  an  incessant  cannonade  from  Hontmartre. 

In  the  Belleville  quarter,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Buttes-Ghaumont,  is  the 
handsome  church  of  *8t.  Jean-Baptista  (PI.  B ,  83),  built  in  the  Gothic 
style  of  the  13th  cent,  by  Lastm  (d.  1867),  and  consecrated  in  1859.  The 
chief  portal  is  flanked  by  two  towers,  190  ft.  in  height,  which  are  con- 
spicuous from  every  part  of  the  city.  Mural  paintings  in  the  transept  by 
Leloir  and  Maillet.  —  A  cable-railway  descends  hence  to  the  Place  de  la 
B^publique  (p.  74$  10  c). 

The  Rue  d'Allemagne  (p.  201)  leads  to  the  fortifications  of  the 
city,  where  it  terminates  at  the  Porte  de  Pantin  (p.  203).  To  the 
left,  within  the  *enceinte\  about  3/4M.  from  the  Buttes-Chaumont, 
is  situated  the  Harchi  de  la  Villette  (PI.  B,  31),  the  only  cattle- 
market  in  Paris.  Visitors  are  freely  admitted  to  the  market,  which 
presents  a  busy  scene ,  especially  on  Monday  and  Thursday  morn- 
ings. It  consists  of  three  large  payilions,  like  those  of  the  Halles 
Centrales,  constructed  by  Baltard  and  Janvier,  and  coTers  an  area 
of  ten  seres.  The  central  hall  is  capable  of  containing  5080  oxen, 
tAat  on  the  right  about  2000  calvea  anA  bS^Q  ^\%%,  wv!iLt\i%.t  on  the 


7.   ABATTOIRS  DE  LA  VILLBTTE.  203 

left  31,300  sheep.  Most  of  the  cattle  arrive  by  a  branch  of  the 
Ceintare  railway,  on  theE.  side.  Behind  the  market  are  stables 
and  offices,  at  the  back  of  which  mns  the  Canal  de  TOarcq. 

Orer  3'^  million  head  of  cattle  annually  enter  the  market.  The  bull- 
ocks oome  ehiefly  from  17ormandy,  Ai^on,  and  Poiton  \  the  cows  from  the 
De-de-Fnmce;  the  calves  from  Orl^anais  and  Champagne ;  the  sheep  from 
Tarions  piovlnees  and  from  abroad-,  and  the  pigs  from  Maine,  Poitoti, 
and  Brittany. 

Tisiton  are  also  usnally  permitted  to  visit  the  adjoining  Abat- 
toixt  de  la^llette,  or  slaughter-houses,  beyond  the  canal.  The 
chief  entrance  to  them  is  in  the  Rue  de  Flandre,  on  the  N.W.  side. 
beside  which  are  two  sculptured  groups  of  animals,  by  A.  Lefeuvre 
and  Lefhvrt'Deslongchamps.  The  busiest  time  here  is  also  in  the 
morning ,  but  the  scene  is  not  one  which  will  attract  many  visitors, 
though  the  premises  are  kept  scrupulously  clean.  The  buildings  in- 
elnde  about  20  courts,  with  250  scalding-pans.  About  1200  bullocks, 
600  calves,  and  800  sheep  are  slaughtered  here  daily;  sometimes 
even  more.  The  butchers  of  the  abattoirs  are  not  retail  dealers,  but 
sell  the  meat  wholesale  here  or  at  the  Halles  Centrales  to  the  but- 
ohers  of  the  town.  The  slaughter-house  for  pigs  (about  1000  daily) 
ie  by  itself,  next  the  fortifications.  At  the  end  next  the  market 
axe  a  Sefrigerator  and  au  Electric  Factory.  —  The  market  and 
abattoirs  together  have  cost  the  city  about  60  million  francs. 

On  the  left  hank  of  tbe  Seine  is  another  large  slaughter-house  (24  acres), 
established  in  1897,  between  the  Bue  de  Dantzig  and  the  Bue  Brandon 
(PI.  G,  11). 

The  neighbouring  quarters  of  AtibervaUers  (27,300  inhab.),  Pantin 
(9B,600  Inhab.),  and  Le  Pri-St-OervaU  (%00  inhab.)  are  uninteresting.  The 
new  Mairit  at  Pantin  (PI.  B,  31.  34)  is  built  in  the  Benaissance  style.  — 
About  IV4  M.  to  the  right,  on  the  hill  behind  Le  Pr^-St-Oervais,  to  which 
a  imall  tramway  plies  (6  c),  is  the  village  of  Le*  Lilas  (1500  inhab.),  with 
another  tasteful  mairie.  This  village  lies  on  the  electric  tramway  to 
Bomainville  (see  the  Appx.). 


U.    MONTKABTBE. 
St.  Viaeent-de-Paul.    Butte  Montmartre.    Oemetery  of  Montmartre. 

Those  who  have  already  inspected  the  Bassin  de  la  Villette  and 
the  Buttes-Ghaumont  may  take  a  cab  to  the  Gare  du  Nord,  which 
is  about  2  M.  from  the  Abattoirs,  or  they  may  use  the  tramway  com- 
ing from  Auberrilliers,  leaving  it  at  the  Rue  du  Faubourg-St-Denls, 
near  the  station.  From  the  Oare  du  Nord  (p.  200)  we  descend  the 
Rue  Lafayette  for  a  short  distance  to  the  church  of  St.  Yincent-de- 
Paul,  which  may  be  reached  from  the  boulevards  by  ascending  the 
same  street  or  the  Rue  d'Hauteville. 

♦St.  Vincent-de-Paul  (PI.  B,  24),  erected  in  1824-44,  by  Lephre 
and  Hittorff,  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  basilica,  with  a  projecting 
portico  of  twelve  fluted  Ionic  columns  and  two  somewhat  feeble 
towers  138  ft.  in  height.  In  the  pediment  is  a  relief  \ii  Lcmnxtt^ 
jeptesenting  St.  Fincent-de-Paul,  between  ¥a\t\i  aii^CIVivtvVj.  ^'^^t 


204  7.    ST.  VINOENT-DE-PAUL. 

the  bronze  doors  are  reliefs  by  Farochon  (d.  1871),  representing  the 
symbols  of  the  Evangelists. 

Intebiob.  The  ehurch  consists  of  a  nave  flanked  with  doable  aisles, 
the  latter  being  partly  oceupied  by  chapels,  and  partly  by  galleries.  The 
roof  is  borne  by  86  Ionic  stuccoed  columns.  The  open  roof  is  tastefully 
decorated.  The  windows  of  the  aisles  are  filled  with  stained  glass  by 
Mariehal  and  Orignon. 

The  nave  is  adorned  with  a  celebrated  *Frieze  by  HippolyU  Flandrin^ 
executed  in  1850-51  and  conceived  in  the  manner  of  the  early -Christian 
mosaics  at  Bavenna.  It  represents  the  nations  of  the  earth  advancing  in 
solemn  procession  towards  the  gates  of  Heaven.  Over  the  entrance  are 
SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  preaching  the  gospel.  To  the  right  are  two  groups 
of  believers,  one  with  St.  Louis  in  its  midst.  Farther  on  are  bishops,  St. 
Jerome  and  the  other  Fathers  of  the  Churcb,  martyrs.  Christian  heroes, 
popes,  and  so  forth.  To  the  left  are  Mary  and  Joseph,  groups  of  holy 
women,  and  female  martyrs. 

In  the  dome  of  the  choir  is  another  fresco,  by  Picot  (d.  1868),  re- 
presenting St.  Vincent- de- Paul  kneeling  before  Christ  on  his  throne,  and 
presenting  children  to  him.  The  frieze,  also  by  Picot,  represents  the  seven 
sacraments.  The  high-altar  is  adorned  with  a  handsome  Crucifixion  in 
bronze,  by  Rude  (d.  1855).  The  chapel  of  the  Virgin  at  the  back  of  the 
choir  contains  a  fine  group  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  by  Carrier-Belleuse^ 
and  eight  scenes  from  the  Kew  Testament  by  Bouguereau, 

The  Rue  St.  Vincent-de-Paul,  behind  the  church,  intersects 
the  Boulevard  de  Magenta,  and  ends  at  the  H6pital  Lariboisiere 
(PI.  B,  23),  erected  in  1846-53,  and  called  after  the  countess  of  that 
name,  who  bequeathed  2,900,000  fr.  to  the  poor  of  Paris.  Visitors 
are  admitted  on  Sun.  and  Thais.,  from  1  to  3  p.m.  The  chapel 
contains  the  tomb  of  Mme.  de  Lariboisidre  (d.  1851),  by  Marochetti, 

A  little  to  the  K.  of  the  hospital,  beyond  the  Bool,  de  la  Chapelle,  is 
the  handsome  church  of  St.  Bernard  (PI.  B,  23),  with  its  fine  spire, 
erected  in  1858-61 ,  by  Magne ,  in  the  Gothic  style  of  the  14th  century. 
The  paintings,  pulpit,  stations  of  the  Gross,  stained  glass  by  Qsell- Laurent ^ 
and  two  good  altar-pieces  in  the  transept  may  be  inspected.  In  the  square 
in  front  of  the  church  is  a  pretty  bronze  figure  of  a  woman  feeding  poultry. 

The  Boul.  de  Magenta  ends  at  the  Boulevards  ExUrieurs,  be- 
tween the  Boul.  de  la  Chapelle  and  the  Boul.  de  Rochechouart.  To 
the  N.  it  is  continued  to  St.  Ouen  (p.  209)  by  the  Boulevard  Barb^s 
and  the  Boulevard  Omano, 

The  conspicuous  dome  rising  a  little  to  the  left  of  the  Boulevard 
Barbes  belongs  to  the  Magcuint  Dufaydy  a  large  establishment  for  the  sale 
of  furniture,  etc.,  on  the  system  of  payment  by  instalments.  A  visit  to  the 
interior  is  not  uninteresting.  The  facade  on  the  other  side,  in  the  Bue  de 
Clignancourt,  near  the  Butte  Montmartre,  is  noteworthy,  the  sculptures 
are  by  Falgui^re  and  Dalou. 

A  little  to  the  W. ,  in  the  Boul.  de  Rochechouart,  is  the  Colllge 
Rollin  (PI.  B,  20),  a  large  edifice,  finished  in  1876.  It  is  adjoined 
by  the  Square  d'Anvers,  which  is  embellished  with  a  column  bear- 
ing a  bronze  Statue  of  Armed  Peace^  by  Goutan,  and  with  bronze 
statues  of  Sedaine  (1719-1797)  and  Diderot  (1713-1784),  by  Le- 
cointe. 

The  Butte  Hontmartre,  near  the  top  of  which  we  have  now 

arrived,  is  a  bill  famous  in  the  annals  of  Paris,  rising  to  a  height 

of  330  ft.  above  tbe  Seine,  and  containms  asiCkVwA  ^vjo^vkV^^  Qt  ^p- 


7.  EGUSE  DU  SAORfi-OOSUR.  205 

aom  (ffom  which,  when  calcined,  is  obtained  'plaster  of  Paris'). 
AecoTding  to  tradition,  St.  Denis,  the  first  bishop  of  Paris,  and  his 
eompuilons  suffered  martyrdom  here  in  270,  and  the  name  of  the 
hill  is  supposed  to  have  once  been  Mona  Martyrum,  Others  derive 
the  name  from  Afons  Martis,  from  a  temple  of  Mars  which  is  said 
to  haye  stood  here.  This  point  can  be  reached  only  by  a  long  detour 
or  1>7  flights  of  steps.  The  most  direct  of  the  latter,  leading  to  the 
left  from  the  Flact  8t.  PUrre,  has  266  steps.  A  lift  is  to  be  con- 
stmeted,  and  the  whole  slope  is  to  be  laid  out  as  a  public  park 
(Square  de  la  Butte-Montmartre),  with  a  waterfall. 

The  helgbU  of  Hontmartre  witnessed  the  final  struggle  between  the 
Freaoh  troops  and  the  Prussian  and  Russian  allies  on  30th  March,  1814, 
aad  also  pWed  an  important  part  in  the  sieges  of  1870-71.  On  18th 
Kareh,  lo^l,  the  insurgent  soldiers,  having  assassinated  the  generals 
CMment-Thomas  and  Lecomte,  took  possession  of  the  cannon  on  the 
HoBtmairtn,  whieh  had  been  entrusted  to  a  body  of  the  National  Guard. 
Thus  began  the  Communard  rebellion  of  18th  March  to  28th  May,  1871. 
The  iasnTgents  were  dislodged  by  the  victorious  troops  on  24th  May,  and 
the  batteries  of  Montmartre  were  then  directed  against  the  Communards 
who  oeeopied  the  Buttes-Chanmont  (p.  201)  and  P^re-Lachaise  (p.  180). 

The  Sglise  du  Sacr^CoBur  (PI.  B,  20),  crowning  the  summit 
of  the  hill,  though  still  unfinished,  has  been  used  for  service  sinc^e 
1891.  It  is  an  imposing  edifice  in  the  Romanesque-Byzantine  style, 
from  designs  by  Abadie,  and  is  to  be  surmounted  by  a  large  dome, 
tboat  260  ft.  in  height,  with  a  clock-tower  360ft  high  behind.  The 
progress  of  the  building  has  been  slow,  for  very  extensive  substruc- 
tions  were  required,  costing  3,500,000  fr.,  and  though  30,000,000  fr. 
hsTe  already  been  expended,  much  has  yet  to  be  raised  by  subscrip- 
tlon.  The  approach  is  at  present  by  the  little  Rue  de  la  Barre,  behind 
the  church. 

To  the  right,  in  front  of  the  chief  facade,  is  the  ticket-office  for 
the  crypt,  the  bell,  and  the  ascent  of  the  dome  (see  below).  The 
crypt  (adm.  25  c. ;  entrance  to  the  E.  of  the  vestibule)  extends 
below  the  whole  church.  In  a  temporary  shed  is  the  huge  bell  known 
as  the  *8avoyarde\  presented  by  the  province  of  Savoy  (adm  50  c, 
25  c  on  Sun.  and  holidays).  It  is  10  ft.  high  and  19  tons  in  weight 
without  the  tongue,  dimensions  exceeded  only  by  those  of  the  great 
bell  of  Moscow  (19  ft  high  and  200  tons  inweight). — The  entrance 
to  the  Donu  (60  c.)  adjoins  the  W.  door  of  the  church.  It  aiTords  a 
magnificent  •View  of  Paris,  and  of  the  country  to  the  S.,W,,  and  E.  of  it. 

The  principal  features  from  left  to  right,  seen  from  the  comer  of  the 
lireet,  are  as  follows :  in  the  foreground,  St.  Vincent-de-Paul  and  the  Oare 
da  Nord  \  farther  off,  the  Buttcs-Chaumont ,  the  two  towers  of  Belleville, 
the  tower  of  M^nilmontant,  and  Pere-Lachaise  with  its  ^sugar-loaf  and  cre- 
matorium ^  to  the  right,  nearer  us,  the  Mairie  of  the  10th  ttrrondissement; 
beyond  St.  Vincent- de-Paul,  the  campanili  of  St.  Ainbroise,  the  Golonne  de 
Juillet,  and  the  dome  of  St.  PauPs;  in  front,  the  Chapelle  des  Arts  et 
Matters  I  more  remote,  still  to  the  right,  the  dome  of  La  8alpStri6re; 
8t.  Oervais,  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  Notre  Dame,  Tour  St.  Jacque:),  St.  Etienne- 
da-Mont,  and  the  Panthdon;  next,  St  Eustache  and  the  Halles  Centrales, 
with  the  domes  of  the  Sorbonne,  the  Val-de-Grace,  and  tli^i  0\\%ctNvv\«t^\ 
nearer,  the  twin  towers  of  8t.  SuJpice,  the  tower  oi  Bl.  C3ierctta.\\x-^tvA?x\i.%^ 
sad  the  Lpurrei  in  the  distance^  the  tower  of  U.oiitrou^«\  V^«^  coia^«x«.>2kN^l 


206  7.  CEMETERY  OF  MONTMARTRE. 

near,  to  the  right,  the  imposing  Opera  House,  above  which  rise  the  spires 
of  Ste.  ClotUde)  to  the  left,  the  Venddm^  Golamn;  again  to^the  right,  the 
dome  of  the  church  of  the  Assumption,  the  gilded  cupola  of  the  Invalides, 
the  buildings  of  the  Exhibition  of  1900  in  the  Esplanade,  the  Champs- 
Elysdes,  and  the  Ghamp-de-Mars,  the  Great  Wheel,  and  the  Eiffel  Tower 
to  the  left;  nearer,  to  the  right,  the  two  Palais  des  Beaux- Arts  in  the 
Champs-Elysees,  the  campanile  of  La  Trinity,  and  the  Madeleine ;  then  the 
dome  of  St.  Augustin,  the  towers  of  the  Trocad^ro,  the  Arc  de  Triomphe  de 
TEtoile,  and  the  fort  of  Mont  Val^rien.  On  the  horison  rise  the  hills  of 
Cbatillon,  Glamart,  and  Meudon. 

To  the  W.  of  the  church  is  a  very  large  Betervoir  (2,420,000  gal.) 
with  three  stories.  The  water  in  the  first  story  is  pumped  up  from 
another  reservoir  at  the  foot  of  the  hiU,  whither  it  is  brought  from 
Bercy.  The  upper  stories  are  destined  for  spring-water.  Visitors 
apply  to  the  keeper,  to  the  left.  —  Behind  the  reservoir  lies  the  old 
church  of  8t.  Pierre-de^Montmartre,  a  relic  of  a  Benedictine  mon- 
astery founded  in  1147,  by  Louis  YI.  Beside  it  is  a  Mount  Cal- 
vary, from  the  old  convent  of  Mont  VaMrien  (adm.  25  c). 

In  fifont  of  the  reservoir  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  new  church 
are  several  Panoramat  (adm.  1  fr.,  on  Sun.  and  holidays  60  c). 

At  the  foot  of  the  Butte,  to  the  K.,  at  some  little  distance  from  the 
Sacr^-CoBur,  are  the  church  of  Notre- DaiM-dt-Clignaneourt  (1859-63)  and 
the  handsome  Benaissance  Mairie  of  the  18th  Arrondis*einmt  (1888-92). 

Descending  once  more  to  the  Boulevards  Ext^rieurs,  we  follow 
them  to  the  W.  for  about  9/4  M.,  to  the  Cemetery  of  Montmartre.  At 
the  end  of  the  Boul.  de  Rochechouart ,  where  it  is  joined  by  the 
Rue  des  Martyrs,  is  the  little  Cirque  Midrano  (p.  35).  The  Boul. 
de  Rochechouart  is  continued  westwards  by  the  Boul.  de  Clichy, 
leading  past  the  Place  Pigalle  and  the  Place  Blanche,  The  short 
Avenue  Bachel  leads  to  the  right  (N.)  to  the  cemetery.  This  approach 
was  lowered  in  1888,  when  the  Viaduc  Caulaincourt,  about  200  yds. 
long,  was  carried  over  the  cemetery,  uniting  the  Rue  Caulaincourt, 
to  the  N.  of  the  Butte  Montmartre,  with  the  BouL  de  Clichy. 


The  Cemetery  of  Montmartre,  or  Cimeiihre  du  Nord(PL  B,  16, 
17),  the  second  burial-ground  of  Paris,  though  inferior  to  P6re-  . 
Lachaise,  is  also  worthy  of  a  visit.    Hours  of  adm.,  see  p.  180. 

We  follow  the  main  avenue  in  a  straight  direction,  pass  under 
the  viaduct,  and  reach  the  — 

Ca&bbfoub,  db  la  C&oix.  Beneath  the  cross  are  interred  the 
victims  of  the  *coup  d'etat'  of  1852.  To  the  left,  on  the  side  next  the 
principal  avenue,  is  the  vault  of  the  *Cavaignac  Family^  to  which 
belonged  the  author  Oodefroy  (d.  1845) ,  and  the  general  Eughne  (d. 
1857),  president  of  the  republic  in  1848.  The  recumbent  figure  of 
the  former,  in  bronze,  is  by  Rude.  To  the  right,  under  the  viaduct : 
J.  Duprato  (d.  1892) ,  composer ,  bronze  medallion  and  lyre  by 
J.  Thomas ;  Castagnary  ( d,  1888),  the  author,  bronze  bust  by  Rodin ; 
Beyle  (Stendhal;  d.  1842),  author,  medallion  after  David  d' Angers. 
Farther  on ,  in  the  Avenue  Dubuisson :  *Feyen^Perrm  (d.  1888), 
painter,  with  a  hronze  bust  and  a  statue  of  a  fisher -girl  strewing 
flowers,  by  Gnilbert,  Jean  Qir&me  (d.  iS^i"),  -viWi «.  «U.tue  of  Grief 


7.  CEMETERY  OF  MONTMABTRE. 


207 


by  J.  L.  CWrdme.  On  the  waU  at  the  end,  *Ad.  Porlier  (d.  1890), 
with  •  bronze  statae  of  a  woman  strewing  flowers,  by  L,  Morice. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  Avenne  de  la  Cloche  (p.  203) :  Mtilhac 
(d.  1897),  the  dramatist,  monument  by  Baitholomt^. 

The  Jbwish  Cembtbbt  is  a  little  farther  on,  to  the  right  of  the 
Avenue  Ooidler.  To  the  left,  near  the  entrance,  *Oiifif  Family ^  with  a 
colossal  statae  of  Moses,  after  Michael  Angelo,  At  the  end  of  the  walk, 
on  the  left,  •flaWvy,  the  composer  (d..  1862),  with  a  statue  by  Duret. 

We  proceed  straight  on,  and,  regaining  the  principal  cemetery, 
follow  the  Aybnub  Montbbbllo,  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  the 
cemetery.  To  the  left,  Mieeialaa  Kamienskiy  a  Polish  volunteer  who 
fell  at  Magenta  in  1859,  with  recumbent  bronze  figure  by  Franceschi. 
P.ChouwOoff,  a  child's  tomb  with  angel  by  R.Carnielo.  —  Left,  *Rohart 
Family  J  with  angel  in  bronze.  Farther  on  is  a  large  block  of  marble 
marking  the  grave  of  Paul  Ddaroche  (d.  1856),  the  painter.  Behind, 
Gftos.  Maury  (d.  1866),  the  composer.  —  Right,  Marshal  Lannes 


(d.  1809),  Duo  de  Montebello.  *Prince88  Soltikoff(A.  1845),  a  chapel 
covered  with  gilding  and  painting.  —  Left,  Horace  Vemet  (d.  1863), 
the  painter;  a  marble  sarcophagus.  About  50  paces  along  the 
Avenue  des  Carrieres,  on  the  right,  reposes  Hectcr  Berlioz  (d.  1869), 
the  composer,  with  a  medallion  by  Godebski. 

We  now  enter  the  Avenue  du  Tunnel.  To  the  right.  Lion  Fou- 
eault  (d.  1868),  the  natural  philosopher.  A  little  farther  on,  *A.  de 
Neuf^Ue  (d.  1885),  battle-painter;  monument  representing  the  gate 
of  the  cemetery  at  St.  Privat,  near  Metz,  with  a  bust  of  the  deceased 
and  a  figure  of  France,  by  Fr.  de  St.  Vidal. 

We  retrace  om  steps  for  a  few  yards  and  tum  to  t\i^  tv^x.  vci\.^ 


208  7.  CEMETERY  OF  MONTMARTBE. 

the  AvBNUB  GoKDiBB.  Left,  Murger  (d.  1861),  authoi  of  the  *Vie 
de  Boh^me',  with  a  statne  of  Youth  by  Millet.  Left,  *Loui8e  Thouret 
(d.  1858),  with  recumbent  figure  in  marble,  by  Oayelier.  Bight, 
Oozlan  (d.  1866),  the  author.  Adjacent,  on  the  left,  is  the  tomb  of 
*ThSophiU  Oautiw  (d.  1872),  the  poet,  a  sarcophagus  with  a  figure 
of  Calliope,  by  Godebski,  bearing,  among  others,  the  following  in- 
scription: — 

''VoUeau  s'en  va,  la  feuille  tombe, 

U amour  s'iteint^  car  c'est  Vhiver; 

Petit  oiseaUy  viens  tur  ma  tombe 

Chanter  quand  larbre  sera  vert\ 
Farther  on,  to  the  right,  *0u8t.  Guillaumet  (d.  1887),  the  painter, 
with  allegorical  figure  and  bronze  medallion  by  E.  Barrias. 

We  now  ascend  by  the  grave  of  Gozlan  and  proceed  towards  the 
right  to  the  Aybnub  db  Montmo&bnct.  Right :  Duehesae  ^Abrantha 
(d.  1838),  wife  of  Marshal  Junot,  and  their  son ;  medallion  by  David 
d' Angers.  Adjacent,  Ary  Schtfftr  (d.  1858),  the  painter;  a  chapel 
in  which  also  rests  Ernest  Rtnan  (d.  1892),  author  and  critic, 
Scheflfer's  nephew.  In  the  centre,  *AUxandre  Dumaa  the  Younger 
(d.  1896),  with  recumbent  statue  by  St.  Marceaux,  under  a  canopy. 

—  Left :    CL  Bousaet  (d.  1895),  with  a  bronze  bust. 

We  here  turn  to  the  left  and  follow  the  AYBmiE  de  la  Cloche. 
On  the  right:  *  Victor  Masai  (d.  1884),  composer,  with  bronze 
ornamentation.  To  the  left:  Dt  Braux  d^Anglurc  (d.l849);  a  bnst 
and  bas-relief  in  bronze.  In  the  avenue,  on  the  right,  in  the  second 
row  of  graves,  repose  Heinrieh  Heine  (d.  1856),  the  poet,  and  his 
wife  Mathilde  (d.  1883),  monument  and  bust,  by  Hasselriis,  erected 
in  1900.    In  the  first  row,  close  by:  Oreuze  (d.  i805),  the  painter. 

—  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  ViolUt-le-Due  (d.  1879),  architect. 
Opposite  is  the  Chemin  Due,  crossing  the  Chbmin  T&oyon, 

which  traverses  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  cemetery.  Left: 
*Frideric  Lemaitre  (d.  1876),  the  actor,  with  bronze  bust  by  Gra- 
net ;  right :  Troyon  (d.  1865),  the  painter.  Among  the  trees,  to  the 
left :  R,  Dealandea  (d.  1890),  dramatist,  bust  by  Guilbert.  Ne/ftzer 
(d.  1876),  chief  editor  of  *La  Presse*  and  founder  of  *Le  Temps', 
with  a  bronze  statue  of  Grief,  by  Bartholdi.  Farther  on,  Carlotta 
Patti  (d.  1889),  singer;  medallion  by  Lormier.  —  In  the  main  walk, 
beyond  Troyon,  to  the  right:  Aglae  Didier  (d.  1863),  author.  Left : 
Clapiason  (d.  1866),  composer;  H.  Storks  (d.  1866),  recorder  of 
Cambridge,  marble  monument,  with  medallion.  *M6ry  (d.  1866), 
author;  statue  of  Poetry,  in  bronze,  by  Lud.  Durand.  —  In  the 
Chemin  Baudin,  to  the  right,  *Baudinj  *mort  en  defendant  le  droit 
et  la  loi,  le  3  dtfo.  1851 :  ses  concitoyens,  1872* ;  a  handsome  recum- 
bent figure  in  bronze,  by  Millet  (the  remains  were  removed  to  the 
Pantheon  In  1889).  At  the  end,  Thibouat  (d.  1867),  the  dramatist, 
marble  relief.  A  little  to  the  right ,  Martin  Bernard  (d.  1883), 
^representative  of  the  people*  ]  medallion  by  Meusnier.  —  To  the 
right  of  the  Chemin  Troyon :  Bouvilrt(^^.  ift^^Ti^ti^sedian  ^  medaUion 


7.  PLACE  DE  OLIOHY.  209 

and  bas-relief  by  Prtfault,  representing  the  deceased  as  Hamlet. 
Left:  *Chaudey  (d.  1871),  editor  of  the  *Sifecle*,  shot  by  the  Com- 
mnnards ;  an  expressive  medallion  by  Benandot,  with  a  quotation 
£rom  the  journal.  Right:  *Ward  Family^  with  a  large  Christ  in 
bronze.  Left:  Mine  (d.  1879),  sculptor.  Right:  •Roatan  (d.  1866), 
professor  of  medicine ;  marble  figure  in  high-relief,  by  Schrosder. 
Left:  Mare^Lejeune ;  a  chapel,  surmounted  by  a  sarcophagus  with 
four  symbolical  statues. 

We  have  now  again  reached  the  Ayenue  de  Montmorency  (see 
p.  208).  Left:  Duchesae  de  Montmoreney-Luxembourg  (d.  1829),  a 
large  obelisk.  Right :  PoUgnae  (d.  1863),  officer ;  a  large  and  rich 
ohapel. 

Those  whom  time  permits  may  descend  to  the  Aysitob  Samson  by  the 
flight  of  steps  a  liitle  farther  on.  Bight:  *3am$on  (d.  187 L),  actor ^  bronze 
bast  by  Crauk.  Farther  on,  beyond  the  Avenae  da  Tunnel,  to  the  right : 
DvpoM  de  8enneooy^  *Chef  de  Tl^cole  magnetique  moderne ,  with  a  flne 
marble  bast  by^Bracony.  Adjacent,  to  the  left:  Otutave  Eicard  (d.  1873), 
painter,  with  a  marble  bast  by  Ferru^  to  the  right,  Ch.  Fourier  (see  below), 
the  socialist. 

At  the  end  of  the  Avenae  des  Anglais,  the  first  diverging  to  the  right 
from  the  Avenae  Samson,  reposes  Jacques  Offenbach  (d.  1881),  ander  a  rich 
monument  of  porphyry  with  a  bronze  bust,  lyre,  and  palm.  Not  far  off 
lies  L4o  DeHbes  (d.  1891),  with  a  medallion  by  Chaplain. 

Farther  on  in  the  Avenae  Samson :  to  the  right,  Ducange{di.  1888),  the 
author.  In  the  Avenae  Travot:  to  the  right,  General  Travot  (d.  1830),  marble 
bust  by  Dantan.  —  To  the  right  of  the  part  of  the  Avenue  Montmorency 
oil  the  right:  the  brothers  Ooncourt  (d.  1870  and  1896),  sarcophagus  with 
medallions. 


From  the  cemetery  we  return  to  the  Boul.  de  Clichy,  and,  follow- 
ing it  to  the  right,  pass  a  bronze  statue  of  Charles  Fourier  (1772- 
1837),  by  £.  Derr^  (^899),  and  soon  reach  the  Place  de  Clichy  or 
Ploiee  Moneey  (PI.  B,  17),  in  which  rises  the  Monument  of  Moncey, 
erected  in  186y.  This  colossal  group  in  bronze ,  by  Doublemard^ 
19  ft.  in  height,  on  a  pedestal  26  ft.  high,  adorned  with  bas-reliefs^ 
represents  Marshal  Moneey  (d.  1842)  defending  Paris,  with  a  dying 
soldier  beside  him,  in  reference  to  the  fact  that  the  marshal  dlstin- 
gnished  himself  in  the  defence  of  the  capital  in  1814. 

Opposite  the  monument  of  Moneey  the  Avenue  de  Clichy  ascends  to 
the  IT,  and  farther  on  bends  to  the  left,  while  the  Avenue  de  St.  Ouen 
turns  a  little  to  the  right.  To  the  left  of  the  latter  is  the  little  Square 
des  Epinettes  (PI.  B,  16),  with  monuments  to  Marie  Deraismet  (d.  1894),  by 
E.  Barrias,  and  to  Jean  Leclaire  (1801-72),  by  Dalou.  Leclaire  was  the  first 
employer  of  labour  to  introduce  the  Profit-Sharing'*  system  with  his  work- 
men; Mde.  Deraismes  was  a  champion  of  the  cause  of  woman'^s  rights.  — 
OUchy  (33,9U0  inhab.)  and  St.  Ouen  (30,700  inhab.)  are  uninteresting.  The 
ehateau  of  St.  Ouen,  where  Louis  XVIII.  signed  his  famous  declaration 
of  2nd  May,  1814,  no  longer  exists,  and  the  park  is  now  a  Racecourse. 

A  little  beyond  the  Place  de  Clichy,  to  the  left  of  the  Rue  de  Clichy, 
which  leads  to  La  Trinity  (p.  196),  is  the  Square  Vintitnille^  where  a  bronze 
Statue  of  Berlioz  (1803-1869),  by  Alf.  Lenoir,  was  erected  in  1886. 

The  outer  boulevards  lead  on  to   the  W.   from  the  Pl&c^  CW^X^i  V^ 
Oit  M.)  the  Pare  Monceaux  (p.  19S)  and  (1  HI.")  the  Art  ^<i  ^T\<im^\i<i.  e^^i^ 
rktoile  (p.  158). 

Bamdekbr.   PariB.    Uth  Edit.  \K 


^10 


8.  ftuaiider  da  Temple  and  ftuartier  du  Marais. 

Archives  and  Imprimerie  Nationales.  Mnsie  Camavalet. 
Place  des  Vosges. 

The  traveller  who  parposes  visiting  the  Archives,  the  Imprimerie  Ra- 
tionale, and  the  Mns^e  Carnavalet  on  one  day  mast,  of  course,  choose  a 
day  (Thurs.)  on  which  they  are  open,  and  should  be  provided  with  the 
necessary  orders  (see  p.  211).  On  Sun.  orders  are  not  required  for  the 
Hus^e  Camavalet  or  the  Archives.  The  former  should  be  visited  first,  as  it 
is  opened  earlier.  ~  Luncheon,  at  the  Place  de  la  Bastille  (see  pp.  18,  16). 

The  Quartier  du  Temple,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Place  de  la  R^- 
puhlique  (PI.  R,  23,  24,  26,  27;  III),  owes  its  name  to  the  chief 
stronghold  of  the  Knights  Templar  in  France,  a  relic  of  which,  the 
Tour  du  Temple,  the  prison  of  the  royal  family  in  1792  and  1793, 
stood  here  until  1811.  —  The  site  of  the  Temple  is  now  occupied  by 
a  square  and  a  market. 

The  Square  du  Temple  is  embellished  with  five  bronze  statues : 
Befran^er  (1780-1857),  by  Doublemard;  the  *Retiarius*,  by  Noel; 
^This  age  is  pitiless',  by  Schcsnewerk;  the  Harpooner,  by  J.  Richard ; 
and  Diogenes,  by  Marioton.  The  handsome  modern  building  at  the 
E.  end  is  the  Mairie  of  the  3rd  Arrondissement  (du  Temple). 

The  MarcM  du  Temple  was  at  one  time  important,  and  before  its 
reconstruction  in  1868-66  was  a  picturesque  old  'cloth-fair\  Kow  only  a 
part  of  it  is  occupied  by  clothes-dealers.  The  Carreau,  or  exchange  for 
second-hand  dealers  and  old-clothesmen  ('chineurs*).  is  on  the  first  floor, 
reached  by  staircases  from  the  square  (open  9-12;  adm.  5  c). 

To  the  right,  between  the  Rue  du  Temple  and  the  Rue  de  Tur- 
bigo,  is  the  church  of  8te,  Elisabethj  dating  from  the  17th  cent, 
hut  enlarged  in  1826.  The  font  in  white  marble ,  to  the  right  of 
the  door,  was  erected  in  1654.  The  small  cupola  of  the  choir 
is  adorned  with  an  Apotheosis  of  St.  Elizabeth,  by  Alaux,  and  there 
are  paintings  by  Biennoury,  Hesse,  Roger,  and  Lafon ,  in  a  chapel 
to  the  left  of  the  entrance.  The  fine  wood  -  carvings  of  Biblical 
scenes  (16th  cent.)  were  brought  fiom  a  church  at  Arras. 

The  Ruedu  Temple  leads  towards  the  H6tel  de  Yille.  We  follow 
it  as  far  as  the  (10  min.)  broad  Rue  de  Rambuteau ,  leading  to  the 
Halles  Centrales  (p.  173),  and  to  the  left  to  the  — 

Arohives  NationaleB  (PI.  R,  23;  III),  established  in  the  old 
H6tel  de  SouhUe,  This  building  occupies  the  site  of  the  mansion 
of  the  Gonntftable  de  Glisson,  erected  in  1371,  of  which  there  still 
exists  in  the  Rue  des  Archiyes,  to  the  left  of  the  fa^ade,^  a  handsome 
gateway  flanked  with  two  turrets  (restored  in  1846).  Down  to  1696 
the  mansion  belonged  to  the  powerful  Guise  family ,  after  which  it 
came  into  the  possession  of  the  family  of  Soubise.  The  present 
Palais  des  Archives  chiefly  consists  of  buildings  erected  by  O,  Boff- 
rand  for  Francois  de  Rohan,  Prince  de  Soubise,  at  the  beginning  of 
the  18th  cent.)  and  others  added  or  reconstructed  in  the  19th  century. 
The  entrance  is  in  the  Rue  des  Francs-Bourgeois.  The  court  is  sur- 
roanded  by  a  handsome  CorintMan  coVouivB^^ft  \ii  Lamet  \  ^e  i^edi- 


8.   ARCHIVES  NATIONALES.  211 

ment,  with  its  GorintMan  and  composite  columns,  is  adorned  with 
soulptuxes  by  R.  Lelorrain,  The  decorations  of  some  of  the  rooms 
are  among  the  best  examples  of  the  style  of  Lonis  XY.  in  Paris. 

The  national  archives  were  deposited  here  in  1808.  They  are 
divided  into  four  departments  —  the  *  Secretariat',  the  'Section 
jSistoriqne',  the  'Section  Administrative*,  and  the  'Section  Legis- 
lative et  Jndiciaire*.  There  are  in  all  about  400,000  documents,  the 
oldest  dating  from  the  Merovingian  period.  Visitors  are  admitted 
for  purposes  of  research  daily,  10-3  o'clock,  except  on  holidays,  on 
previous  application  at  the  Bureau  des  Renseignementa.  The  'Mus^e' 
consists  of  a  collection  of  the  chief  treasures  of  the  Archives,  but 
several  documents  are  represented  only  by  facsimiles. 

TheMus^des  Archives,  orMtuie  Paliographiqw^  is  generally  open  to  the 
pablie  on  San.,  12-8,  and  on  Thurs.,  during  the  same  hours,  by  permission 
obtained  from  the  director.  The  principal  objects  are  labelled,  and  the 
catalogue  (1  fr.)  also  contains  interesting  information  about  the  building. 
The  mus€e  is  not  heated  in  winter.    There  is  no  'vestiaire\ 

Oboufd  Floob.  —  BalU  I.  Beah^  arranged  in  1899  in  sixty-four  glass 
eases  numbered  from  left  to  right  round  the  room  and  then  returning  by 
those  in  the  centre:  Cases  1-6.  Royal  seals;  6.  Seals  of  French  princes; 
7-9.  of  exalted  dignitaries  \  10-17.  of  great  feudatories ;  18-35.  of  seigneurs ; 
36.  of  bourgeois;  37.  of  peasants;  ^-41.  of  courts  and  tribunals^  42.  of 
ofBees;  48,  44.  of  towns;  45.  of  guilds  and  professions;  46-64.  of  ecclesi- 
astics. —  BalU  II.  Ecarliest  DoeumerUs  (627-1641),  in  sixty  glass- cases  num- 
bered as  in  the  preceding  room.  There  are  also  some  early  documents  on 
the  first  floor  (see  below).  Gases  1  and  2.  Merovingians ;  3-9.  Garolingians 
Imonogram  of  Charlemagne  at  Ko.  34) ;  9-60.  Capetians.  Some  of  the  doc- 
uments are  remarkable  for  their  caligraphy  or  drawings  and  miniatures 
as  weU  as  for  historic  interest.  In  Case  16  is  a  funeral  scroll  of  Vital,  Abbd 
de  Savigny,  with  verses  attributed  to  H^loise  (1122-23);  in  Case  17  is  the 
^iU  of  Abb6  Suger  (1137),  beautifuUy  written.  Case  30:  No.  383.  Char- 
les V.  Case  33:  Xo.  401.  Charles  V.  Case  35:  Nos.  411,  412.  Duke  and 
Duchess  of  Berry  (1389;  1403).  Case  39:  No.  447.  Figure  of  Joan  of  Arc. 
Case  05.    Edict  of  Nantes  signed  by  Henri  IV.  (1598). 

Salle  III.  Continuation  of  the  Seals.  Reproductions  of  the  finest  seals 
In  the  Archives ;  seals  of  provinces,  communes,  foreign  sovereigns,  princes, 
and  noblemen,  etc.;  stamps  from  stamped  papers;  dies  for  coins.  Also 
mn  allegorical  painting  of  little  artistic  value,  out  historically  celebrated. 
It  dates  from  the  reign  of  Henri  IV.,  and  represents  the  vessel  of  the 
Church  on  its  voyage  towards  the  harbour  of  Salvation,  surrounded  with 
boats  bringing  believers  to  it,  and  with  others  containing  assailants.  It 
was  discovered  in  a  church  of  the  Jesuits ,  and  afforded  an  argument 
against  them  when  the  order  was  suppressed  in  1762. 

Salle  IV.  Treaties  and  Foreign  Documents^  in  69  glass-cases.  Cases  1-14. 
Treaties  of  alliance  and  peace,  from  the  treaty  between  Richard  Coeur-de- 
Lion  and  Philip  Augustus  (1195)  to  the  Conventions  of  Erfurt  (1803); 
15-17.  Great  Britain.  This  room,  formerly  a  salon,  is  decorated  like  the 
other  apartments  from  designs  by  O.  Boffrand;  on  the  wall  are  fine  panels, 
above  which  are  reliefs  by  Lam^.  Sigisb.  Adam  and  /.  B.  Lemoine. 

Salle  V.  Foreign  Documents,  continued.  Cases  18-22.  Belgium;  23,  24. 
Netherlands;  25-28.  Germany;  29.  Sweden:  30.  Denmark:  31,  32.  Norway; 
33-36.  Austria-Hungary;  37-43.  Spain;  44,  45.  Portugal;  46-48.  Italy  ;  49-57. 
Papal  See;  68, 69.  Russia;  60-63.  Eastern  Europe;  64-68.  African  and  Asiatic 
states;  69.  United  States  of  America. 

First  Floob.  —  The  modern  staircase  has  a  ceiling-painting  by  Johhi- 
Duval.    A  copy  of  the  large  plan  of  Paris,  known  as  *Turgot's  plan"  ^1^^- 
1739),  is  shewn  here;  also  busts  of  keepers  of  the  archivea.  IftaWfe  v.ox  lorcm^sx 
*Bed  Ctiambir  of  the  Prineesa  de  Soubise,  is  richly  decoT^kte^  -^^VVJa.  ca.x^'ii^ 
psaeJs  (mytbologic&l  su bjecta)  and  paintings.    A  gilded  baVaaVt^d^i  Vt^Vs*^^ 


212  8.    MONT*DE-PI*Tfi. 

marks  the  spot  where  the  bed  stood;  but  the  two  original  chimney-pieces 
are  no  longer  extant.  The  two  pastorals,  at  the  back  of  the  chimney-piece 
to  the  right  and  above  the  door  to  the  left,  are  by  Fr,  Boucher;  the  other 
paintings  by  TrdmoUires.  —  Qlass-cases  61-65,  behind  the  balustrade,  eon- 
tain  ancient  documents  of  nnasoal  size  or  otherwise  remarkable  (minia- 
tures). Gases  66-75,  in  the  centre:  documents  of  the  17-18th  cent.,  includ- 
ing 852.  Treaty  of  the  Pyrenees  (1659)  \  879.  Declaration  of  the  Clergy  of 
France  in  1682 ;  887.  Bevocatlon  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes  (1686)  by  Louis  XIV. 
(these  two  in  case  69) ;  letters  from  celebrities  of  the  period. 

Salle  II,  or  "Salon,  also  handsomely  decorated,  with  eight  cartouches 
and  ornamented  ceiling.  The  former,  the  chief  work  of  Ch.  Naioire  (painted 
1737),  represent  the  story  of  Psyche.  —  Glass-cases  78-88,  from  right  to 
left :  Documents  of  the  end  of  the  18th  Century^  including  the  Oath  taken  at 
the  Jeu  de  Paume  (in  case  79),  papers  relating  to  the  Bastille  (81),  Con- 
stitutions of  1791,  1793,  *an  in\  and  *an  vni\  —  Cases  84-86,  at  the  end : 
Papers  relating  to  Marie  Antoinette:  the  will  of  Louis  XVI.,  executed  at 
the  Temple  on  29th  Dec,  1792,  and  the  last  letter  of  Marie  Antoinette, 
written  in  the  Conciergerie  on  16th  Oct.,  1793.  (The  authenticity  of  these 
two  documents  is,  however,  doubtful;  the  letter  does  not  bear  the  queen''8 
signature.)  Journal  of  Louis  XVI.,  speech  delivered  by  him  before  the 
Convention,  letter  of  Louis  XVI.  Before  the  fireplace  is  a  table  from 
the  cabinet  of  Louis  XVI.,  on  which  Robespierre,  when  wounded,  was 
brought  before  the  ^Comitd  du  Salut  Public'  at  the  Tuileries. 

Salle  III.  Continuation  of  Document*  of  the  reigns  ofLouHeXY.  and  Louis 
XF/.  Cases  87-116.  From  1715  to  1792.  —  Paintings  by  Boucher  i&t  the  eair&nce 
and  at  the  end,  to  the  right),  Tr^molihres^  Restout,  and  C.   Van  Loo, 

Salle  IV.  boeuments  of  the  end  of  the  18th  Cent,  and  1800-1816.  Cases 
117-152.    Paintings  by  Boucher  (to  the  right),  Restout,  and  C.  Van  Loo. 

The  Ecole  des  Ghartes,  which  formerly  adjoined  the  Archives,  was 
removed  to  the  Sorbonne  (p.  238)  in  1897. 

The  Palais  des  Archives  is  situated  within  the  old  Quartier  du 
MaraiSy  which  extends  from  the  Rae  dn  Temple  to  the  grand  boule- 
vards and  to  the  Rue  de  Rivoli  and  Rue  St.  Antoine.  Once  a  fashion- 
able quarter  with  several  still  handsome  mansions,  It  Is  now  quite 
given  over  to  trade  and  manufactures. 

Opposite  the  Archives  is  the  Mont-de-PiStS,  or  great  pawnbrok- 
ing  establishment  of  Paris,  which  enjoys  a  monopoly  of  lending 
money  on  pledges  for  the  benefit  of  the  'Assistance  Publlque*. 

The  loans  are  not  made  for  less  than  a  fortnight,  but  articles  may  be 
redeemed  within  that  time  on  payment  of  the  fees.  Four-fifths  of  the 
value  of  articles  of  gold  or  silver,  two-thirds  of  the  value  of  other  articles, 
are  advanced,  the  maximum  lent  being  10,000  fr.  at  tills  establishment, 
and  500  fr.  at  the  branch-offices.  The  interest  and  fees,  which  before  1885 
were  as  high  as  9Vz  per  cent,  are  now  reduced  to  7  per  cent,  with  a  minimum 
of  1  fr.  The  pledges  are  sold  after  fourteen  months  from  the  time  when  the 
borrower  has  failed  to  redeem  them  or  to  renew  his  ticket)  but  within 
three  years  more  the  excess  of  the  price  realised  over  the  sum  lent  may 
still  be  claimed.  The  Mont-de-Pidtd  lends  about  50,000,000  fr.  annually 
on  about  2  million  articles.  The  sale  of  unredeemed  pledges  produces 
about  4,000,000  fr.  annually.  Loans  upon  deeds  up  to  500  fr.  were  author- 
ized in  1892. 

Adjacent  to  the  Mont-de-Pitfttf  is  the  church  of  Notre-Dame- 
des-BlancS'ManUaux ,  the  insignificant  relic  of  a  convent  which 
stood  on  the  site  of  the  pawn-office.  In  the  Rue  des  Francs-Bour- 
geois, farther  on,  at  the  comer  of  the  Rue  Vieille-du-Temple,  rises 
s  Gothic  tower  with  arcades  and  a  grating,  perhaps  a  relic  of  the 
^otel  Barbette,  where  Louis  of  OiVeMiB  ^%»  «a%*a^\v\a.ted  in  1407 


8.  MDSfiE  CARNAVALET.  213 

by  order  of  Jean  sans  Pear,  Duke  of  Burgundy.  —  To  the  left,  a 
litae  farther  up  the  Rue  Yieille-du-Temple,  is  the  — 

Impiimerie  Hationale  (PI.  R,  23;  III),  or  government  print- 
ing-offloe,  established  in  the  old  H6tel  de  Strasbourg  (18th  cent.), 
which  once  belonged  to  the  Dukes  of  Rohan ,  four  of  whom  were  Arch- 
bishops of  Strassburg.  The  first  court  is  adorned  with  a  copy  in 
bronze  of  the  statue  of  Gutenberg  by  David  d* Angers  at  Strassburg ; 
and  in  the  second  court  is  a  flne  relief  (Watering  horses)  by  Lelor- 
rain.  The  printing-office  employs  about  1200  workpeople  of  both 
sexes.  The  types  are  oast,  the  paper  made,  and  the  binding  executed 
within  the  same  building.  Oriental  characters  are  particularly  well 
represented.  The  chief  business  consists  in  printing  official  docu- 
ments of  all  kinds,  books  published  at  the  expense  of  government, 
geological  maps,  and  certain  playing-cards  (vit.  the  ^court  cards' 
and  the  ace  of  clubs,  the  manufacture  of  which  is  a  monopoly  of 
the  state).  Visitors  are  admitted  on  Thurs.  at  2  p.m.  precisely,  with 
tickets  obtained  from  the  director.  The  'Cabinet  des  PoioQcns'  and 
the  'Cabinet  des  Singes'  are  decorated  with  paintings  by  Boucher 
and  Htiet.   The  inspection  takes  1-1 V2  ^^• 

A  little  to  the  1?.  of  the  Imprimerie,  in  the  Rue  Chariot,  is  the  17th 
cent,  charch  of  St.  Jean-St-Franpois  (PI.  B,  23;  ///).  formerly  a  Ca- 
pnchin  chapel.  It  contains  a  number  of  paintings  (badly  lighted),  among 
which  is  St.  Louis  visiting  the  plague  stricken,  by  Arp  Seheffer  (first  to  the 
left,  in  the  nave).  There  are  also  eight  tapestries  referring  to  a  'Miracle  of 
the  HosV  that  took  place  in  Paris  in  1290.  At  the  entrance  to  the  choir  are 
statues  of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi  (by  0.  Pilon)  and  St.  Denis  (by  /.  Sarrazin). 

Lower  down  the  Rue  Vieille-du-Temple,  to  the  S.  of  the  Rue 
des  Francs-Bourgeois,  is  the  Hotel  de  Hollande  (No.  47),  a  hand- 
some edifice  of  the  17th  cent.,  once  occupied  by  the  Dutch  ambas- 
sador to  the  court  of  Louis  XIV.  The  gateway  is  adorned  with  flne 
sculptures  (heads  of  Medusa),  and  the  court  contains  a  large  bas- 
relief  of  Romulus  and  Remus,  by  Regnaudin. 

Beyond  the  Rue  Vieille-du-Temple  the  Rue  des  Francs-Bourgeois 
passes  on  the  right  the  old  H6tel  Lamoignon^  dating  from  the  16th 
century.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  in  the  Rue  S^vigntf,  is  the  — 

*Mii8ie  Camavalet  (PI.  R,  26;  V),  or  Muaee  Historique  de  la 
ViUey  containing  a  collection  illustrating  the  history  of  Paris  and 
of  the  Revolution.  The  name  is  a  corruption  of  KemevaleCy  a  Bieton 
family  of  that  name  having  once  owned  the  mansion,  which  was  af- 
terwards the  residence  of  Mme.  de  S^vign^  for  eighteen  years 
(1677-96).  The  building  was  begun  in  1544  from  designs  "by  Lescot 
and  BuUanty  and  enlarged  in  1660  by  F,  Mansart,  who  built  the 
principal  facade  in  the  Rue  S^vigntf.  The  portal,  however,  with 
sculptures  attributod  to  Jean  Ooujonf  is  earlier.  The  house  was 
purchased  by  the  city  in  1869,  and  thoroughly  restored. 

The  Muieum  (Director,  M.  Cain)  is  open  to  the  public  on  Sun.,  Tues., 
and  Thurs.,  11-5  (4  in  winter).    Sticks  and  umbrellas  must  be  given  up. 
Descriptive  labels  everywhere.    Those  whose  time  i&  UTXi\\j&&  %\x!c^vs\^.  ^%»% 
quickly  through  the  groundfloor  of  the  right  wing  aivii.  «»%«.ft\i^  ^\.  q^^^  ^^ 
the  ^at  £oor  by  the  main  staircase  in   the  ceutral  ^^uVV^Viv^  V.^.*i\l^. 


214 


8.  MUS^E  CARNA VALET. 


The  archvay,  under  which,  to  the  right,  is  the  entrance  to  the 
museum,  leads  to  a  Oou&t,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  flne  bronze 
Statue  of  Louis  XlV.y  by  Ant.  Ooyzevox,  brought  from  the  old  H6tel 
de  Yille.  The  sculptures  of  the  Seasons,  on  the  facade  facing  the 
archway,  are  attributed  to  Jean  Ooujon,  To  the  left  is  a  staircase 
to  the  first  floor. 


Jtrt-C'    rfes    FYci  rvcs  -  Bour'tf  ao  is 

V 2E a! 2>>tetres 


Ground  Floor.  Bight  Wing  (entrance  beneath  the  arcbway) :  Niiie  Small 
Rooms  (PI.  I,  U)  containing  prehistoric,  Roman,  and  Merovingian  anti- 
quities. Among  the  Soman  relics  are  stones  from  the  Amphitheatre  in 
the  Rue  Monge  (p.  270),  architectural  fragments,  sarcophagi,  reliefs,  mill- 
stone?, and  mile-stones. 

The  Main  Building,  to  the  left  as  we  come  from  the  preceding  rooms, 
contains  Four  Rooms  with  additional  Antiquities;  fragments  of  Oallo-Roman 
buildings;  16tb  cent,  chimney-piece;  earthenware,  glass,  bronzes,  and 
coins,  found  in  Oallo-Roman,  Merovingian,  and  mediseval  tombs;  tomb- 
inscriptions.  —  Beyond  the  last  room,  to  the  left,  is  the  principal  staircase, 
ascending  to  the  first  floor;  to  the  right  is  a  door  to  the  garden,  behind 
the  Hotel  Carnavalet  proper. 

The  Garden  is  surrounded  on  the  three  other  sides  with  constructions 
not  belonging  to  the  Hdtel  Garnavalet.  In  the  middle,  to  the  left,  the  Are 
de  Nazareth  (16th  cent),  a  gateway  from  the  old  street  of  that  name  in 
the  Cit^,  with  sculptures  by  Jean  Goujon,  and  a  tasteful  modem  gate. 
Opposite,  to  the  right,  the  Pavilion  de  CJioiseul  (end  of  the  17th  cent).  In 
the  galleries,  to  the  right  and  left,  are  Fragments  of  Parisian  Buildingt  of 
the  Middle  Ages,  the  Renaissance,  and  the  17th  and  18th  centuries.  Under 
the  Pavilion  de  Ghoiseul  are  an  equestrian  relief  of  Henri  IV.,  by  Lemaira 
(1838),  from  the  old  Hotel  de  Ville,  statues  by  Fr.  Anguier,  and  statues  of 
Apostles,  of  the  school  of  G.  Pilon. 

The  building  on  Ihe  remaining  side  of  the  garden  has  a  facade  brought 
from  the  old  Quildhouse  of  the  Drapers  (by  i.  Bruant;  17th  cent.),  and  con- 
tains Three  Rooms  with  memorials  of  Paris  during  the  19th  century,  the 
inspection  of  which,  however,  is  better  postponed.  The  entrance  is  on  the 
right  (the  Pavilion  de  Ghoiseul  side),  through  a  vestibule,  whence  another 
staircase  ascends  to  the  anteroom  of  the  Galerie  de  la  Revolution,  on 
the  first  floor  (p.  215).  The  firit  of  these  Paris  rooms  is  the  Salle  du  Ptilais 
Royal  (No.  ix).  In  the  centre  is  a  model  of  the  Palais  Royal,  executed 
in  1843-4S.  At  the  sides.  Medallions  of  his  contemporaries,  by  David  ^Angers. 
Views  and  paintings.  Model  of  a  diligence.  —  Room  VIII  (Salle  de  fSdtel 
de  Ftlle)  contains  relics  of  the  old  Hotel  de  Ville;  fragments  of  an  altar 
nf  1542;  6ne  old  doors.  —  Room  VH  (Salle  de  1830).  In  the  centre. 
Oafuccawe  /Statuettes  and  Bwit  of  celebtUlea  ot  Vha  Vim^  oWi^xAa^YAil^^e^ 


8.    MUSJ&E  CAKNAVALET. 


215 


by  Dantan  thi  Y^mg^r,  To  the  right.  Glass -case  containing  numerous 
relica  and  memorials  of  1830  and  of  the  period  18U-30.  By  the  back- wall, 
bast  of  B^ranger,  and  the  chair  in  which  he  died  (1867).  By  the  wall  next 
the  garden,  two  portraits  of  George  Sand  (one  in  masculine  dress)  \  death- 
maslu  of  Bdranger  and  Ste.  Beuve.  By  the  exit,  bronze  bust  and  various 
memorials  of  President  Carnot  (d.  1894);  door  of  Balzae's  bedroom. 

From  the  garden  we  return  to  the  main  building  and  ascend  the  prin- 
cipal Btaircate  (p.  2U)  to  the  first  floor.  On  the  staircase  are  facsimiles 
of  ancient  plans  of  Paris. 


^u^     das     Francs  -  Bourgejois 

'i £ 2E ffMttres 

First  Floor.  Unvnu  I-  V:  Views  of  Paris,  arranged  more  or  less  chron- 
ologically, and  illustrations  of  by-gone  manners,  including  interesting  works 
by  ff.  Bohert  and  JtamtaJt  (^Dispute  at  the  Fountain' ;  left  wall  in  Ruom  II), 
drawings  by  the  brothers  St.  u4«&«'n,  and  others.  —  Koom  VI  contains  the  con- 
tinuation of  this  collection.  Also :  Tea-service  of  the  Revolutionary  period, 
with  views  of  Paris ;  collection  of  206  snuff-boxes  of  historic  interest  (1789- 
1848).  —  Room  VII  (Salle  Ikmffeau).  Ceiling-painting  (attributed  to  Lebnin) 
and  gilded  panelling  brought  from  the  former  Hotel  Dangeau  (time  of 
Louis  XIV.).  Two  ancient  tapestries.  Wax  portrait  of  Henri  IV,  modelled 
by  Michael  Bourdin  on  the  day  after  the  king's  assassination  (1610).  —  The 
following  rooms  are  devoted  to  the  Histobical  Collection.  Room  VIII 
(Satte  de  la  Ugue).  To  the  left,  the  Procession  of  the  Ligue  (1590),  a  curious 
representation;  by  the  next  window,  collection  of  miniatures,  plates,  etc., 
referring  to  the  history  of  balloons;  portraits  of  Card.  Dubois  and  the  Duke 
of  Orleans,  attributed  to  Jouvenet;  tapestry  of  Louis  XIII.  By  the  window 
on  the  right,  Revolutionary  porcelain  and  stoneware,  including  the  inkstand 
of  Camifle  Desmoulins.  —  From  the  following  small  Vestibuley  with  old 
shop-signs,  wood -carvings,  etc.,  a  staircase  descends  to  R.  XXIII  (p.  214). 

Room  IX.  (Oalerie  de  la  Rivolution).  On  the  wall  are  portraits  of  the 
period  (De  Launay,  Louis  Philippe  Egalit^,  Ch^nier,  Marat,  Danton, 
Robespierre);  above,  revolutionary  Porcelain^  made  in  almost  every  case 
at  Xevers  (whence  the  yellow  instead  of  red).  In  the  glass-cases  to  the 
left  are  official  badges,  medallions,  miniatures,  etc. ;  in  the  third  case, 
'Tasse  k  la  Guillotine',  in  Berlin  porcelain.  The  glass-cases  by  the  windows 
contain  coins  and  medals;  above,  busts,  statuettes,  etc.;  to  the  right  of 
the  exit,  painted  mask  of  Voltaire.  —  Room  X  has  fine  panelling  and 
ceiling  of  tJie  18th  century.  On  the  chimney-piece,  decimal  clock  and  Sfevres 
vases  of  the  Revolutionary  period.  Opposite,  glass-case  containing  various 
relics  (Marat's  snuff-box,  etc.).  To  the  left,  bust  of  Delille  (d.  1813),  by 
Pajou;  harp  in  carved  wood.  To  the  right,  Voltaire's  arm-chair.  — 
Room  XI  {Oalerie  de  la  R&volution  continued).  Among  the  portraits  are 
those  of  Desmoulins,  Mir.ibeau,  St.  Just,  Marat  after  his  assassination  (by 
Detvid)^  Philippe  Egalit^  (by  Sir  Joshua  Reynold*)  \  a\so^\Yi«0«X\iVtvNX!^^'^v^ 
de  Paume,  completed  redaction  of  the  painting  Bk«lc\i«^  "b^  I)a1A^.V:|^.V^^ 


216  8.    MUS^E  CABNAVALET. 

and  Prisoners  at  St.  Lazare  during  the  Terror,  by  Hubert  Bobert.  In  the 
glass-cases  to  the  left  are  a  clock  satirizing  the  Revolntion,  decorationa, 
miniatures,  fans,  watches,  baton  of  an  ^offieieir  de  paiz*  under  the  Directory, 
revolutionary  buttons,  and  so  forth.  In  the  eases  to  the  right  are  interest- 
ing autographs,  illustrated  with  miniatures  or  medals  of  the  writers ;  in 
the  first  case,  documents  relating  to  the  execution  of  Louis  XVI. 

Room  XII  (Salle  de  la  Bastille).  In  the  centre,  Model  of  the  Bastille, 
made  from  a  stone  of  that  building.  In  the  glass-case  surrounding  it, 
relics  of  various  kinds  connected  with  the  Baatille;  lettres  de  cachet; 
Loai'i  XVI/s  autograph  order  for  the  defenders  of  the  Tuileries  to  cease 
firing  (Aug.  2nd,  17b2).  Hanging  from  the  ceiling  is  a  banner  of  the 
Emigres ,  with  the  arms  of  Franee  and  the  Allies  and  the  Hydra  of  the 
Revolution.  By  the  entrance -wall:  Glass-case  containing  playing-cards 
and  bindings  of  the  Revolution  including  a  copy  of  the  Gonstitation  of 
il9^  bound  in  human  skin*,  above.  Declaration  of  the  Rights  of  Man;  cabinet 
with  carved  representation  of  the  fall  of  the  Bastille ;  weapons.  By  the 
next  wall:  Cabinet  adorned  with  revolutionary  emblems;  glass-case  with 
portraits,  including  one  of  *La  Veuve  Capet'  (Marie  Antoinette),  by  Prieur, 
and  a  miniature  of  Charlotte  Gorday.  Fireplace-wall:  Weapons;  instru- 
ments of  punishment;  portrait  of  Latude,  who  incurred  the  displeasure 
of  Mme.  Pompadour  and  was  confined  for  thirty-six  years  in  the  Bastille ; 
below  are  the  rope-ladder  and  tools  that  aided  his  ultimate  escape. 
Fourth  wall :  Cabinet  decorated  with  patriotic  scene*;  swords  of  honour 
of  La  Tour  d'Auverfue  (1743-1800)  and  Garibaldi  (1807-82);  sabre  of 
General  Gardanne  (1766-1818). 

Room  XIII  (Salle  de  V Empire)  is  devoted  to  the  Napoleonic  period. 
At  the  end,  to  the  left,  is  Napoleon's  field-desk  and  dressing-case,  the  con- 
tents of  which  are  shown  in  the  adjoining  glass-cases.  On  the  walls  are 
numerous  portraits.  Bust  of  the  Prince  Imperial  (son  of  Napoleon  III.), 
by  Carpeaux.  Glass-case  with  a  death-mask  of  Napoleon  1.  and  other 
relics. — A  staircase,  to  the  left,  ascends  hence  to  the  second  floor  (p.  217). 

The  next  eight  rooms,  formerly  occupied  by  Mme.  de  S^vign^,  have,  with 
the  exception  of  B.  XVI,  been  adorned  with  panelling  and  wood-carvings 
from  ancient  mansions  in  Paris,  illuatrating  various  styles  of  decoration. 
—  Room  XIV  (Salle  Debueourt)^  with  panelling  in  the  style  of  the  Regency, 
contains  several  of  the  best  paintings  in  the  collection.  From  left  to 
right:  Beilly^  Stand ard-Bearer  (1788),  Departure  of  the  Paris  conscripts 
in  1807,  The  Pont  Royal  in  1800  (on  glass).  Portrait  of  himself;  Hubert 
Robert^  Destruction  of  the  church  of  the  Feuillants  (p.  164);  above  the 
fireplace,  Peene^  Mariette,  the  author;  at  the  sides,  drawings  by  WaUeau^ 
St.  Aubin^  and  others;  *Debueourt^  Federation  in  the  Champ-de-Mars  on  14th 
July,  1790  (water-colour) ;  C.  Vemet^  Longchamp  in  1800.  On  the  table  it  a 
terracotta  bust  by  Ca/Jteri.  —  Room  XV  (Salle  de*  CoefwMs).  Glass-case 
at  the  end,  Rich  costumes  from  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.  to  the  Empire ; 
above,  statuettes  of  the  principal  personages  in  Italian  comedy.  The  glnss- 
ca'^es  at  the  sides  contain  coloured  engravings  of  costumes  of  the  Con- 
sulate, Directory,  and  Empire.  Central  glass-caae:  cap  of  liberty,  cockades, 
shoes,  buttons,  etc. ;  christening-robe  of  the  Prince  Imperial  (lo66);  above, 
elaborately  dressed  wax  dolls  of  the  time  of  Louis  XV. ;  small  coloured 
figure  representing  Voltaire  in  his  study;  behind,  fine  collection  of  tor- 
toiseshell  combs  (18-19th  cent.).— 22oom  XVI  (Salle  des  TMdtree).  Theatrical 
portraits ,  caricatures ,  autographs,  and  personal  relics  of  actors.  On  the 
wall,  painting  of  the  old  Boulevard  du  Temple,  destroyed  in  1862,  with 
its  seven  theatres.  —  Corridor  XVII  (Gakrie  Lurien  Faucou).  Paintings: 
Lagren4e,  Transference  of  Voltaire's  body  to  the  Pantheon  (1791) ;  Van  der 
Meulen^  Inauguration  of  the  Dome  dies  Invalides.  Cabinet  with  medallions 
by  Aug.  Dupri.  Two  eabinets  of  coins ;  in  the  first,  memorials  of  Marietta 
Albani  (d.  1894),  the  singer.  —  Room  XVIII  (Salle  A.  deLiesville)  is  decorated 
in  the  style  of  Loui?  XV.  Among  the  paintings  are  a  portrait  of  Jeaurat^ 
by  himself,  and  a  drawing  competition  by  Codiin.  The  central  glaas-caae 
confAine  sUtaetieB  in  biscuit  porc^ain,  medals,  medallions,  portraits-  etc., 
cbleily  of  the  18th  century.  —  Room  XJX  is  known  as  the  SaUm  Chinoie 
from  its  rococo  panelling  painted  with  Chineae  Bu.b\«&\A.  —  Room  XX  ^.SolU 


8.   PLACE  DBS  VOSGES.  .  217 

d€  BMgni),  formerly  the  aelon  of  Mme.  de  B4vign6  (p.  216),  decorated  in 
the  ftyle  of  Louis  XIY.  On  the  entranee-wall  is  a  copj  of  Mignard^s 
portrait  of  Mme.  de  S^yign^^  below,  glass-case  containing  a  letter  written 
by  b«r.  Sereral  large  works  by  S.  Robert.  Fans  of  the  17th  centary.  — 
MUfom  J^XIj  a  small  recces  opening  off  the  preceding  room  on  the  right, 
contains  a  yalnable  collection  of  porcelain  bequeathed  by  M.  de  Liesville. 
Iron  railing  of  fine  workmanship  at  the  entrance.  Several  of  the  other 
rooms  contain  other  portions  of  the  Liesville  collection.  —  Room  XXII 
(€M9ri»  d€9  JSduvint).  Portraits  of  magistrates  and  engravings,  medals, 
etc.,  connected  with  the  municipal  history  of  Paris.  Portrait  of  Voltaire 
at  the  age  of  24  (by  LarffUlUre)  and  engravings  referring  to  Voltaire. 

We  now  return  to  Boom  XIH  and  ascend  the  staircase  to  the  — 

Second  Tloor.  Six  small  rooms  here  are  devoted  to  the  Siege  of  Paris 
in  1870-71  and  the  Commune  (March-Hay,  1871).  Room  I,  Paintings,  draw- 
ings, and  sketches,  by  OuilUer.  MSS. ;  uniforms;  weapons.  —  Room  II 
(to  uie  right).  In  the  middle  is  a  model  of  the  environs  of  St.  Germain- 
en- Laye  (battlefield  of  Jan.  19th,  1871).  Memorials  of  Gambetta,  including 
a  death-mask.  Uniforms  and  weapons  worn  by  Meissonier,  Glaretie.  Dubois, 
(3arolne-Dnran,  and  other  well-known  men  as  National  Guards.  —  Room  III. 
Bemains  of  a  balloon  in  which  a  plenipotentiary  of  the  government  in 
Paris  escaped  to  Austria.  Representations  of  the  ambulance-service.  Letters 
sent  by  pfgeon-post)  diminutive  newspapers;  lists  of  provisions;  passes.  — 
Room  lY.  Specimens  of  foods  and  substitutes  for  food.  Death  mask  of 
the  painter  Begnault  (p.  251),  who  fell  in  a  sortie  at  Buzenval.  This 
room  and  Rjoomt  Fand  YI  also  contain  satirical  paintings  and  newspapers; 
weapons ;  busts.  Cabinet  with  fused  glass  and  metal  and  other  relics  of  con- 
flagrationa. 

At  No.  29  Rue  de  S^vign^,  a  little  beyond  the  Mus^e  Camavalet,  is  the 
BiUiothiqae  de  la  Villa,  founded  in  1871,  to  replace  the  library  destroyed 
in  the  Hdtel  de  Ville.  It  already  consists  of  about  90,000  vols,  and  50,000 
engravings  and  charts,  all  illustrative  of  the  history  of  Paris  and  the 
Bevolution.  It  is  open  to  readers  on  week-days,  104  in  winter,  and  11-5 
after  Baiter  (elosed  in  Baster  week  and  Aug.  16th-0ct.  20th). 

The  building  in  front  of  the  library  is  the  LycU  Victor  Hugoy  a  high- 
■chool  for  girls. 

A  little  farther  on  the  Rae  des  Francs-Bourgeois  ends  at  the 
Place  del  Yosgei  (PL  R,  26 ;  V),  formerly  called  the  Plaet  Boyale. 
The  garden  in  tlie  centre,  planted  with  limes  and  plane-trees,  and 
enclosed  by  a  railing,  is  adorned  with  an  Equestrian  Statue  of 
Louis  XIII,,  in  marble,  by  Dupaty  and  Gortot,  which  was  erected 
in  1829  to  replace  a  statue  erected  by  Richelieu  In  1639  and 
destroyed  in  1792.  The  angles  of  the  square  are  adorned  with 
fonntsins.  —  A  house  on  the  S.  side,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  Bi- 
rague,  is  marked  by  a  tablet  as  the  birthplace  of  Mme.  de  S^vign^ 
(1626-1696). 

The  Place  des  Vosges  occupies  the  site  of  the  court  of  the  old  Palai$ 
des  Toumelles,  where  the  tournament  at  which  Henri  II.  was  accidental- 
ly killed  took  place  in  1559.  Catherine  de  M^dicis  caused  the  palace 
to  be  demolished,  and  Henri  IV.  erected  the  square  which  still  occupies 
ita  site.  The  houses,  uniformly  built  of  brick  and  stone,  with  lofty  roofs, 
are  flanked  with  arcades  on  the  groundfloor.  It  is  difficult  to  believe 
that  this  sequestered  nook  was  the  fashionable  quarter  of  Paris  in  the 
reign  of  Louis  XIII.,  when  the  ^place'  may  be  said  to  have  been  the  Palais- 
Boyal  of  the  period.  The  Place  des  Vosges  was  first  so  named  after  the 
Bevolution ,  in  honour  of  the  department  of  that  nama^  which  h«.<i  \v%^\s. 
the  first  to  send  patriotic  contributions  to  Paris,  and.  \ih\a  u&me^  vi«w%t^mvs^^ 
in  iSiS  uid  again  in  1870. 


218  8.  ECOLE  MASSILLON. 

The  Rue  da  Pas-de-la-Mule,  to  tlie  N.E.  of  the  square,  leads 
direct  to  the  Boul.  Beaumarohais  (p.  74),  near  the  BaatiUe  (p,  70). 

An  interesting  return-route  from  the  Bastille  to  the  centre  of 
the  town  leads  tIsL  the  Botdevard  Henri  IV,  (p.  72)  and  the  quays 
on  the  right  bank. 

To  the  left  of  the  Boulevard  Henri  IV.  rises  the  Caserne  dea 
Celestiru,  on  the  site  of  a  celebrated  convent.  Beyond  it  diverges 
the  Rue  de  Sully,  in  which  is  situated  the  valuable  Bihliothhque 
de  V  Arsenal  (VL  R,  25  j  7),  occupying  part  of  the  old  arsenal  of 
Paris,  which  extended  from  the  Seine  to  the  Bastille.  The  library 
is  open  daily,  10-4,  except  on  Sundays  and  holidays  and  during  the 
vacation  (15th  Aug.  to  1st  Sept.).  After  the  Bibliothdque  Nationale 
it  is  the  richest  library  in  Paris,  especially  in  ancient  works  and  in 
theatrical  literature  (454,000  vols. ;  9654  MSS.). 

The  Boulevard  Henri  IV.  crossed  the  two  arms  of  the  Seine  and  the 
£.  end  of  the  He  St.  Louis  (p.  232)  by  means  of  the  Font  Sullff^  built  in 
1874-1876.  On  the  right  bank,  upstream,  between  the  river  and  the  Bou- 
levard Morland,  is  the  former  He  Louviers^  united  with  the  quay  in  1840. 
Here  are  situated  the  MagatUu  and  Archivu  de  la  Vilie, 

On  the  right  bank,  near  the  bridge,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Quai 
des  G^estins,  is  the  old  Hotel  la  Valette^  now  the  Ecole  MassiUon,  a 
handsome  building  of  the  16th  cent.,  with  a  monumental  facade 
recently  restored.  On  the  Quai  des  O^lestins  are  shown  the  sub- 
structions of  a  tower  of  the  Bastille  CTour  de  la  Liberie*),  whicli 
were  discovered  in  the  Rue  St.  Antolne  (p.  69)  in  excavating  the 
Underground  Railway  (p.  27). 

Farther  on,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  de  rH6tel-de-Ville  and  Rue 
Figuier,  rises  the  old  Hdtel  de  Sens,  or  palace  of  the  archbishops  of 
Sens  when  they  were  metropolitans  of  Paris.  It  is  a  Gothic  building 
of  the  15th  cent.,  with  turrets  and  a  donjon  in  the  court  (now  private 
property). 

The  Quai  de  rH6tel-de-Ville  leads  hence  to  the  H6tel  de  Villa 
in  5-6  min.  (pp.  63-65). 


THE  CITfi  AND  THE  LEFT  BANK  OP  THE  SEINE. 


The  Cit^  (PI.  R,  20,  23,  22;  F),  as  already  observed  (p.  xxi), 
is  the  most  ancient  part  of  Paris.  Here  lay,  in  the  time  of  Caesar, 
the  Gallic  town  of  Lutetia  Parisiorum;  and  the  Paris  of  the  Romans 
and  the  Franks  was  confined  to  the  same  site,  with  the  addition  of  a 
■mall  settlement  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine,  surronnded  by  forests 
and  marshes.  Under  the  Frankish  monarchs  the  Church  established 
her  headquarters  here.  At  a  later  period  the  town  gradually  extended 
on  the  right  bank,  but  the  Cit^  still  retained  its  prestige  as  the  seat 
of  the  old  Royal  Palace  and  of  the  cathedral  of  Notre-Dame.  On 
one  side  of  Notre-Dame  rose  the  Episcopal  Palace  and  the  Hdtel- 
DieUf  originally  an  asylum  for  pilgrims  and  the  poor ;  on  the  other 
side  was  the  Clottre  Notre-DamCy  or  house  of  the  Canons^  who  play 
so  prominent  a  part  in  the  history  of  the  university.  In  the  Cit^  the 
predominant  element  in  the  population  was  the  ecclesiastical,  while 
the  bnrgesses  and  the  men  of  letters  chiefly  occupied  the  districts  to 
tiie  N.  (right  bank,  la  ViUe")  and  S.  (left  bank,  VUniveraitS}  respect- 
ively. —  The  Cit^  has  long  ceased  to  be  the  centre  of  Parisian  life, 
but  it  possesses  the  two  finest  sacred  edifices  in  Paris,  the  Cathedral 
of  Notre-Dame  and  the  Sainte-Ohapelle.  The  H6tel-Dieu  still  exists, 
but  the  site  of  the  royal  palace  is  occupied  by  the  Palais  de  Justice. 

The  semicircular  part  of  Paris  which  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Seine  forms  fully  one-third  of  the  whole  city,  its  distinctive  feature 
consisting  of  numerous  learned  institutions ,  the  chief  of  which  is 
the  Sorbonney  or  university,  in  the  Quartier  Latin.  The  adjoining 
Faubourg  St,  Oermain  is  the  aristocratic  quarter,  where  ministers, 
ambassadors,  and  many  of  the  nobility  reside ;  and  at  the  W.  end  of 
this  part  of  the  town  are  the  Chambre  des  DipuUa,  the  Senate,  and 
several  large  military  establishments.  The  chief  objects  of  interest 
on  the  left  bank  are  the  Palais  du  Luxembourg  with  its  gallery  of 
modem  works  of  art,  the  PanthSon,  the  Musie  de  Cluny,  the  Jardin 
des  PlarUeSj  the  Ildtel  des  Invalides,  and  the  Champ-de-Mars, 

9.  The  CiM  and  the  ftuartier  de  la  Sorbonne. 

Any  day  but  Monday  ahould  be  chosen  for  a  visit  to  this  district,  for 
on  that  day  the  Sainte-Chapelle,  the  Mus^e  de  Glnny,  and  the  P&Tit1i€<^Tv  vt^ 
closed.  —  Luncheon  m&j  be  taken  In  the  Place  ^u  C;\i,%.\.€VtX^  ^^  '^kWiX. 
8i.  (HrmMittf  the  Boul.  8t.  Ifiche],  or  near  the  Od^on  (coxci^.  v^.  ^&^^^ 


220  9.   PALAIS  DE  JUSTICE. 


I.   PALAIS  DS  JUSTICE  AND  SAINTB-OHAPSLLE.    NOTKE-OAHE. 
Tribnnal  de  Oommeroe.    Font-NeaL    H6tel-I)iea. 

The  Cittf  is  approached  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Seine  by  the 
Pont  au  Change  (p.  64)  and  the  Boulevard  du  Pcdais^  or  by  the 
Pont-Neuf(ip,  223). 

The  *Falaii  de  Justice  (PI.  B,  20 ;  V)  oecupies  the  site  of  the  an- 
cient palace  of  the  kings  of  France,  which  was  presented  by  Charles 
YII.  in  1431  to  the  Parlement,  or  supreme  court  of  Justice.  In  1618 
and  again  in  1776  the  palace  was  so  much  injured  by  fire,  that  nothing 
of  it  now  remains  except  the  Tour  de  VHorloge,  at  the  N.E.  corner, 
near  the  Pont  au  Change,  the  Tour  de  CSsar  and  the  Tour  de  Mont- 
gomery on  the  N.  side,  the  pinnacled  Tour  d^ Argent^  the  Sainte- 
ChapeUe  or  palace-chapel,  the  Salle  des  Gardes,  and  the  Kitchens 
of  St.  Louis.  The  clock  in  the  Tour  de  VHorloge,  adorned  with  two 
figures  representing  Justice  and  Piety,  originally  by  Pilon,  is  the 
oldest  public  clock  in  France.  It  was  constructed  in  1370  by  Henri 
de  Vic,  a  German  clockmaker,  and  has  been  several  times  repaired, 
the  last  after  its  destruction  by  the  Communards  in  1871.  The 
wanton  destruction  of  a  great  part  of  the  building  on  22nd  May,  1871, 
forms  another  of  the  numerous  crimes  of  which  the  Commune  was 
guUty.    The  damage  has  since  been  repaired. 

The  Palaia  is  open  daily,  ezeept  Sundays  and  holidays,  and  visitors  may, 
of  course,  enter  the  courts  (in  session  11-4)  where  they  may  have  an  oppor- 
tunity of  hearing  some  of  the  famous  pleaders.  The  great  size  of  this  build- 
ing and  its  complicated  arrangement  (comp.  annexed  Plan)  render  a  visit 
somewhat  perplexing  to  strangers.  Besides  tiie  main  entrances  in  the  Boule> 
vard  du  Palais  and  the  Place  Dauphine  there  are  various  side-entrances. 
Most  of  the  courts  are  on  the  first  floor.  The  Court  o/ first  Instance,  with 
most  of  its  offices,  lies  to  the  right  of  the  Salle  des  Pas-Perdos  (see  below ; 
civil  courts)  and  to  the  left  of  the  eoart  of  the  Ste-Chapelle  (see  below ; 
Police  Correctionnelle).  The  Cow  de  Cassation  is  beyond  the  Salle  dea 
Pas-Perdus  and  the  Appeal  Court  beyond  the  court  of  the  Ste-Chapelle 
(p.  221). 

The  principal  entrance  is  by  the  Courdu  Mai  oi  Courd^Honneur, 
adjoining  the  Boulevard  du  Palais,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  hand- 
some railing.  The  Doric  pediment  of  the  fa^de  is  adorned  with 
statues  of  France,  Plenty,  Justice,  and  Prudence,  and  is  covered 
with  a  quadrangular  dome. 

The  first  vestibule  of  the  Palais,  called  the  Odierie  Marehande, 
is  also  used  by  the  members  of  the  bar  as  a  'vestiaire*.  The 
advocates  in  their  black  gowns  are  frequently  seen  pacing  up  and 
down  the  different  galleries  whilst  the  courts  are  sitting  (from  11 
to  4  o'clock).  The  staircase  in  the  middle,  adorned  with  a  statue  of 
Justice,  leads  to  the  rooms  of  the  Cour  d'Appel^  which  present  no 
attraction. 

Turning  to  the  right,  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  gallery,  we  enter 

the  *Salle  des  Pas-Perdus,  serving  as  a  vestibule  to  most  of  the  seven 

Civ//  Chambers  constituting  the  Court  of  First  Instance.   This  hall 

(restored  since  i87i),  one  of  the  largest  olt\ift  ^^ixi^Vii«iiatence, 


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9.    SAINTE-OHAPELLE.  221 

is  240  ft  long,  90  ft.  in  width,  and  33  ft.  in  height.   It  consists  of 

two  -vaulted  galleries,  separated  by  arcades  with  Doric  pillars.  Many 

historieal  reminiaoences  attach  to  this  part  of  the  bnilding.   Before 

the  Are  of  (618,  this  was  the  great  hall  of  the  palace,  where  the 

olergy  of  the  ^hoioche'  (a  burlesque  translation  of  hasiliea,  or  royal 

p&laee)  were  priTileged  to  perform  moral  plays  and  farces.    On  the 

light  side  is  a  monument  erected  by  Louis  XYIII.  in  1821  to  the 

minister  Malesherbes,  who  was  beheaded  in  1794,  the  defender  of 

Louis  XVL  before  the  revolutionary  tribunal ;  the  statue  is  by  J.  Du- 

mawU,  the  figures  emblematic  of  France  and  Fidelity  are  by  Bosio^ 

and  tiie  bas-relief  by  Cortot,    Nearly  opposite,  a  similar  monument 

waa   erected  in  1879  to  Berryer  (d.  1868),  a  celebrated  advocate, 

with  a  statue  by  ChapUj  between  figures  of  Eloquence  and  Fidelity. 

To  the  right  of  the  OaUrie  des  Prisons,  which  begins  between 

the    Testibule  and  the  Salle  des  Pas-Perdus,  are  the  halls  of  the 

Ootav-  de  Cauation,    The  first  of  these  is  the  Chanibre  Criminelle, 

'vitli.   a  richly-carved  ceiling.    Adjoining  it  is  the  OaUrie  8t,  Louis, 

tdOTned  with  a  statue  of  St.  Louis  and  frescoes  by  Merson.    The 

second  hall  is  the  Chambre  des  RequUes,  also  with  a  fine  ceiling ;  the 

ihif  d.,  the  Chanibre  Civile,  recently  completed  and  still  more  mag- 

niftoent,  has  a  painted  and  gilded  cassetted  roof  and  is  adorned  with 

a  paiatiiig  of  Christ,  by  Henner,  and  others  by  Baudry. 

At  the  end  of  ihe  gallery  is  the  Vestibule  de  Harlay,  on  the 

^d.Q  next  to  the  Place  Dauphine ,  the  facade  of  which  is  seen  on 

iho  way  to  the  Pont-Neuf.    This  hall  is  embellished  with  statues  of 

tout  monaiehs  who  were  eminent  as  legislators :  St.  Louis  and  Phi- 

Up  Augustus  on  the  N.,  and  Charlemagne  and  Napoleon  I.  on  the 

8.  Bide.    The  staircase  in  the  middle,  with  a  figure  of  Justice  by 

Pfnaud,  leads  to  the  left  to  the  Cour  d* Assises ,  and  to  the  right  to 

tbe  Ckambre  des  Appels  de  la  Police  Correctionnelle. 

The  Oalerie  de  la  Sainte-Chapelle ,  parallel  to  the  Galerie  des 
Tritons,  leads  from  the  Vestibule  de  Harlay  to  the  new  parts  of  the 
Palais.  To  the  right,  about  halfway  along  the  gallery,  is  the  1st 
Ckambre  de  la  Cour  d^Appely  handsomely  decorated  like  those  of  the 
Ooni  de  Cassation,  with  a  ceiling-painting  by  Bonnat.  At  the 
end  are  a  mediasval  Crucifix,  and  two  gilded  Renaissance  scutcheons, 
^th  allegorical  figures.  Farther  on,  the  gallery  brings  us  to  the 
Oalerie  ICarchande  and  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Salnte-Chapelle, 
wliieh  however,  is  not  entered  from  this  side  (see  below). 

Turning  to  the  right,  we  proceed  to  the  four  Chambres  de  Police 
OofreeUonneUe,  Nos.  8  and  9  on  the  first  floor,  Nos.  10  and  11  on  the 
seeoBd.  We  may  also  reach  this  point  from  the  Galerie  March ande  by 
other  corridors.  The  special  entrance  to  these  courts  is  in  the  Cour 
de  la  Sainte-Chapelle. 

The**8ftliite-Chapelle,  the  most  interesting  i^oit^Q'iv  ^i  \}tv^ 
Palais  de  Justice,  lies  to  the  left  of  the  main  feT\Ua.TVQ,ft ,  Niv  >^\fe 
same  court  as  the  Police  Correctionnelle.    It  is  opetv  to  \\i?i  ^>5X:>V\^i 


222  9.    SAINTE-OHAPELLE. 

11  to  4  or  5  daily,  except  Mod.  and  holidays.  It  is  seen  to  adyaatage  * 

only  in  bright  weather.  This  was  the  ancient  palace-ohapel,  ereoted  -i 

in  1245-48  during  the  reign  of  St.  Louis  by  Pierre  de  Monteteau  ' 

for  the  reception  of  the  sacred  relics,  now  at  Notre-Dame  (p.  227),  « 

which  St.  Louis  is  said  to  have  purchased  from  Jean  de  Brlenne,  « 

King  of  Jerusalem,  and  his  son-in-law  Baldwin,  Empeioi  of  Oon-  " 

stantinople,  for  3  million  francs.  The  chapel  (115  ft.  long,  36  ft. 
wide),  which  was  restored  in  1866-70,  is  a  perfect  gem  of  Gothic  ^ 

architecture ,  but  unfortunately  is  partly  concealed  by  other  por-  "" 

tions  of  the  Palais.    In  1871  it  narrowly  escaped  destrootion,  as  it  ^ 

was  almost  entirely  surrounded  by  a  blazing  pile  of  buildings.   The  ^ 

only  service  now  performed  here  is  the  *Mass  of  the  Holy  Ghost*,  « 

celebrated  annually  on  the  re-opening  of  the  courts  after  the  an-  ^ 

tumn  vacation.    The  interior  consists  of  two  chapels,  one  abore  the  ^ 

other. 

The  Lower  Chapel  (Chapelle  Basse),  consisting  of  nave  and  ^ 

aisles,  was  used  by  the  domestics  of  the  palace.    In  the  floor  are  ^ 

tombstones  of  numerous  canons  of  the  Ste-Ghapelle.  A  spiral  stair-  " 

case  ascends  to  the  — 

Uffbs  Chapel,  in  '^hich  the  court  attended  divine  service.  " 

The  proportions  of  this  chapel,  which  is  66  ft.  in  height,   axe  ^ 

remarkably  light  and  elegant.   Nearly  the  whole  of  the  wall-snxface  ^ 

is  occupied  by  15  large  windows  (49  ft.  by  13  ft.),  with  magnificent  ^ 

stained  glass  framed  in  beautiful  tracery.  The  stained  glass,  part 
of  which  dates  from  the  time  of  St.  Louis,  has  been  restored. 
The  subjects  are  from  the  Bible  and  the  lives  of  saints.   The  glass  * 

in  the  rose-window,  dating  from  the  15th  cent.,  represents  sub- 
jects from  the  Apocalypse.  The  polychrome  decoration  of  the  walls 
harmonises  well  with  the  coloured  windows.  Against  the  pillars 
are  placed  statues  of  the  Apostles.  Behind  the  handsome  altar  is 
the  Gothic  canopy,  in  wood,  where  the  sacred  relics  were  formerly 
preserved.  One  of  the  two  small  spiral  staircases  here,  in  gilded 
wood,  was  executed  in  the  13th  cent. ;  the  other  is  modem.  —  We 
quit  the  chapel  by  the  portal  of  the  upper  church,  turn  to  the  right, 
and  pass  through  a  glass-door  (opened  by  the  custodian)  into  the 
first  vestibule  of  the  Palais  (p.  220). 

Quitting  the  Palais  by  the  principal  entrance,  we  observe  to  the  left 
of  the  flight  of  steps  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  Oonoiergerie  (PI.  B,20( 
F),  a  prison  famous  in  the  annals  of  France,  which  occupies  the  lower 
part  of  the  Palais  de  Justice  adjoining  the  Seine.  (Open  on  ThundaTS. 
Visitors  enter  from  the  Quav.  Permission  must  be  obtained  from  the 
Prdfet  de  Police ,  at  the  Prefecture,  Bue  de  Lut^ce ,  opposite  the  Palais, 
between  10.30  a.m.  and  3  p.m.)  Most  of  the  political  prisoners  of  the  flnt 
Bevolution  were  confined  here  before  their  execution.  Profooiid  iBttorest 
attaches  to  the  small  chamber  or  cell  in  which  Marie  Antoinette  was 
imprisoned,  now  converted  into  a  chapel.  Adjoining  this  chamber,  and 
now  connected  with  it  by  an  archway,  is  the  cell  in  which  Robe^ene 
was  afterwards  confined.  Beyond  these  is  the  Hall  of  the  Girondists,  bow 
s  prIsoD-cb&pel.  —  The  so-called  Ctiitinei  de  fit.  LotUt  are  also  tltaated  Im 
this  part  of  the  bniJding.    (PermisBlon,  see  a\>ove.^ 


I 


9.   TRIBUNAL  DE  GOMMEROE.  223 

Opposite  the  Palais  de  Justice ,  on  the  £.  side  of  the  Boul.  du 
OPalais,  rises  the  Tribunal  de  Commeroe  fPl.  R,  20;  V)y  built  by 
JQaSIy  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  1860-d6.  It  is  sunnounted  by 
^LJk  octagonal  dome,  136ft.  high,  which,  being  in  the  line  of  the 
JlSooleyaxd  de  S^astopol ,  is  risible  from  the  Gare  de  TEst.  The 
l-xtttrior,  open  to  the  public  on  veek-days,  deserves  a  visit.  A  grand 
B-CaiieaM  ascends  to  the  Audience  Chamber  and  the  Bankruptcy 
Omztt.  On  the  first  landing  are  statues  of  Industrial  Art  by  Pascal, 
^Mechanical  Art  by  Maindron ,  Commerce  by  Land  by  Cabet ,  and 
ItfazitUne  Commerce  by  Chapu ;  and  at  the  top  are  Caryatides  by 
I^bnt.  Enclosed  vrithin  the  building  is  a  quadrangle  surrounded 
^7  two  colonnades,  one  above  the  other,  above  which  are  Caryatides 
^y  Cazrier-Belleuse  supporting  the  iron  framework  of  the  glass- 
^^orezed  roof.  The  Salle  d' Audience  on  the  first  floor,  to  the  left  of 
^e  ataiicase,  wainscoted  with  oak,  is  adorned  with  panels  in  imi- 
tation of  porcelain  painting,  and  with  pictures  by  Fleury.  The  chief 
^earing!  are  on  Monday. 

_^  The  chief  FUnoir  Martet  in  Paris  is  held  on  Wed.  and  Sat.  behind  the 
^■MbuMl.    Oa  Son.  there  is  a  Bird  Market. 

Xieaving  the  Tribunal  de  Commerce,  we  cross  the  boulevard  to 
the  Tom  de  l*Horloge,  and  skirt  the  Quai  de  I'Horloge,  on  the  left 
■^^e  of  which  are  entrances  to  the  Conciergerie  (p.  222),  and  the 
^onx  de  Cassation  (p.  221). 

The  W,  Facade  of  the  Palais  de  Justice^  towards  the  Place  Dau- 
Phlne,  was  constructed  by  Due  in  1867-68.  The  gravity  of  the  style 
*05Mrds  well  with  the  purpose  of  the  building.  Eight  engaged  Doric 
^^^ximns  and  two  comer-pillars  support  the  rich  entablature.  The 
*Ji|^x  allegorical  figures  below  the  windows  represent  Prudence  and 
-^nfh,  by  Dumont ;  Punishment  and  Protection,  by  Jouffroy ;  Strength 
^■^  Jostlee,  by  Jaley.  Three  inclined  slopes  ascend  to  the  entrance 
^ttke  Vestibule  de  Harlay  (p.  221). 

The  •PWit-Keuf  Q>1.  R,  20;  V)y  farther  on,  at  the  W.  end  of 

^^  island,  a  bridge  360  yds.  in  length  and  25  yds.  in  width,  cross- 

^^  both  arms  of  the  Seine,  is,  in  spite  of  its  name,  the  oldest 

**2idge  In  Paris.   It  was  constructed  in  1578-1604,  but  was  remod- 

^^ed  in  1852,  while  the  end  next  the  left  bank  was  restored  in 

^^.   The  masks  supporting  the  cornice  on  the  outside  are  copies 

'^f  tikose  originally  executed  by  J.  B.  du  Ceroeau.    On  the  island, 

^*lfway  across  the  bridge,  rises  an  *  Equestrian  Statue  of  Henri  IV., 

^1  Lemot,  erected  in  1818  to  replace  one  which  had  stood  here  from 

*w5  to  1792,  when  it  was  melted  down  and  converted  into  cannon. 

«y  way  of  retaliation  Louis  XVIII.  caused  the  statue  of  Napoleon 

^  the  Vend6me  Column,  another  of  the  emperor  intended  for  the 

column  at  Boulogne-sur-Mer,  and  that  of  Desaix  in  the  Place  des 

^etoixes  to  be  melted  down  in  order  to  provide  m&terisA.  Iqt  ^^ 

Ww  stitae.    The  Latin  i/iscription  at  the  back  ia  a  ^o^l  q1  xX^"^^  wv 

'^oHgiBMl monument  At  the  sides  are  twoxel\eia\\i\iXOTLXfe,^Vv3c^ 


224  9.  HOTEL-DIEU. 

represent  Henri  IV.  distributing  bread  among  the  besieged  Parisians, 
and  causing  peace  to  be  proclaimed  by  the  Archbishop  of  Paris  at 
Notre-Dame. 

In  the  i6th  cent,  the  Pont-Keaf  was  the  scene  of  the  recitala  of 
Tabarin,  a  famous  satirist  of  the  day,  and  it  was  long  afterwards  the 
favoarite  rendezvous  of  news-vendors,  jugglers,  showmen,  loungers,  and 
thieves.  Any  popular  witticism  in  verse  was  long  known  as  hin  Pont-Kenf  \ 

The  bridge  commands  an  admirable  ♦View  of  the  Lonvre.  The 
large  edifice  on  the  left  bank  is  the  Monnale  (p.  247),  mnd  beyond 
it  is  the  Institut  (p.  245). 

In  returning  to  the  Bonl.  du  Palais  by  the  Qua!  desOrffevres,  on 
the  left  bank,  we  pass  the  S.W.  portion  of  the  Palais  de  Justice, 
occupied  by  offices  of  the  'prefecture  de  police*. 

The  Prefecture  de  PoUce  (PI.  R,  19,  20;  V;  ofilce-hours  10-4) 
occupies  the  old  municipal  barracks  and  two  *h6tel6  dVtat-major' 
in  the  Boul.  du  Palais,  adjoining  the  Pont  St.  Michel  (p.  228). 
From  this  point  radiate  all  the  threads  which  constitute  the  network 
of  police  authority  that  extends  over  the  whole  city.  There  are  three 
main  departments,  those  of  the  central  administration,  the  market 
police,  and  city  police.  The  offices  are  open  from  10  to  4.  The 
Lost  Property  Office  is  at  Qua!  des  Orf^yres  36,  beside  the  Palais 
de  Justice. 

When  an  article  is  lost  the  best  plan  is  to  write  to  the  Pr^fet  de  Police 
(no  postage-stamp  necessary),  furnishing  as  fall  details  as  possible. 

In  the  Rue  de  Lut^ce ,  opposite  the  Palais  de  Justice ,  is  the 
modem  bronze  statue,  by  A.  Boucher,  of  Th,  £enattcIot (1536- 1653), 
philanthropist  and  publisher  of  the  first  newspaper  in  France  (1631). 

The  H6tel-Dien  (PI.  R,  22;  V),  a  little  farther  on,  with  its 
facade  towards  the  Place  du  Parvis-Notre-Dame  (see  below),  was 
erected  on  this  site  in  1868-78,  by  Diet ,  at  a  cost  of  45  million 
francs,  of  which  nearly  one-half  was  paid  for  the  site.  This  hospital 
is  admirably  fitted  up,  with  828  beds,  and  three  medieal  chairs  in 
connection  with  it.  This,  the  oldest  hospital  in  Paris,  was  originally 
a  nunnery  and  afterwards  an  asylum  for  paupers  and  pilgrims. 

This  establishment  is  one  of  the  twenty  hospitals  of  the  ^Assistance 
Publique',  which  have  an  aggregate  of  upwards  of  12,000  beds.  The  number 
of  patients  annually  discharged  includes  45-50,000  men,  96-40,000  women, 
and  16-18,000  children;  the  average  annual  deaths  in  the  hospitals  include 
about  7000  men,  5000  women,  and  SOOO  children.  The  Assistance  Publique 
expends  annually  about  36,000,000  fr.  on  its  various  benevolent  institutions, 
which  assist  about  487,000  persons  each  year. 

The  Placb  du  Parvis-Notbb-Damb  (PI.  R,  22 ;  F),  in  front  of 
the  Cathedral,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  the  H6tel-Dieu  was  formerly 
situated,  is  embellished  with  an  Equestriar^  Statue  of  Charlemagne^ 
in  bronze,  by  Rochet. 

The  ^Cathedral  of  Kotre-Dame  (PI.  R22,  V;  admission,  see 
p,  226^,  founded  in  1163  on  the  site  of  a  church  of  the  4th  cent., 
was  conaecrated  in  1182,  but  tlie  nave  ^aa  ivq\  cAm^l«ted  till  the 


tf.   NOTRS-DAME.  22( 

:i.dtk  eentary.  The  building  hts  since  been  frequently  altered,  and 
'Siat  been  Jndldonsly  reatored  since  1845 ;  bat  tiie  general  effect  is 
Isaidly  eommensnrate  witb  the  renown  of  the  edifice.  This  is  owing 
partly  to  stmetaTal  defects,  partly  to  the  lowness  of  its  situation^ 
fli^nd  partly  to  the  absence  of  spires.  It  is,  moreover,  now  snrronnded 
'ft^y  kfty  buildings  which  farther  dwarf  its  dimensions;  and,  lastly, 
-ftlie  a4jM«nt  soil  has  gradually  been  raised  to  the  level  of  the  pave- 
xnent  of  the  interior,  whereas  in  1748  the  church  was  approached  by 
m  flight  of  thirteen  steps. 

Dorlac  the  Berolution  the  cathedral  was  ladly  desecrated.    A  decree 

"WM  pMsed  ia  Aofost,  1798,  devoting  the  venerable  pile  to  destmction,  but 

-tlaii  was  afterwards  rescinded,  and  the  sculptures  only  were  mutilated. 

OmiOlk  Hot.  in  the  same  year,  the  church  was  converted  into  a  *Temple 

of  lttSOB\  and  the  statue  of  the  Virgin  replaced  by  one  of  Liberty,  while 

Uupatriotie  hymns  of  the  National  Guard  were  heard  instead  of  the  usual 

aaend  mosie.    On  a  mound  thrown  up  in  the  choir  burned  the  'torch  of 

trath\  over  which  rose  a  Greek  *temple  of  philosophy*,  adorned  with 

^^Vli  of  Voltaire,  Boussean,  and  others.    The  temple  contained  the  en- 

^hnaad  figure  of  Beason  (represented  by  Maillnrd,  the  ballet  dancer),  who 

yaceiTed  in  state  the  worship  of  her  votaries.  White-robed  damsels,  holding 

vnehet,  surrounded  the  temple,  while  the  side-chapels  were  devoted  to 

^tfes  ofTarioas  kinds.   After  12th  May,  1794,  the  church  was  closed,  but 

II 1800  it  was  at  length  re-opened  by  Napoleon  as  a  place  of  divine  worship. 

In  1871  Notre-Dame  was  again  desecrated  by  the  Communards.    The 

^••tny  was  rifled,  and  the  building  used  as  a  military  depdt.    When  the 

Binfsats  were  at  last  compelled  to  retreat  before  the  victorious  troops, 

^  set  fire  to  the  church,  but  fortunately  little  damage  was  done. 

The  *Fa9AI)i,  the  finest  part  of  the  cathedral,  dating  from  the 

btgfaudng  of  the  iSth  century,  and  the  earliest  of  its  kind,  has 

■nred  as  a  model  for  the  fa^des  of  many  other  churches  in  the 

H.S.  of  France.   It  is  divided  into  three  vertical  sections  by  plain 

tettzesses,  and  consists  of  three  stories,  exclusive  of  the  towers. 

'Oub  Area  large  recessed  portals  are  adorned  with  sculptures,  which, 

w  &r  as  they  have  survived  the  ravages  of  the  Revolution,  are  fine 

Vdmeni  of  early-Gothic  workmanship.  Those  on  the  central  portal 

i^nsent  the  Last  Judgment ;  the  noble  modem  figure  of  Christ  on 

^  pillar  in  the  middle  is  by  G.  Dechaume.  The  portal  on  the 

d^(S.)  is  dedicated  to  St.  Anne,  and  that  on  the  left  (N.),  by 

wldeh  the  church  is  generally  entered ,  to  the  Yirgin ,  both  being 

tdomed  with  appropriate  sculptures.   The  relief  representing  the 

Imzisl  of  the  Yirgin  is  noteworthy.    This  story  is  connected  with 

^he  one  above  it  by  the  Oalerie  des  Roia ,  a  series  of  niches  con- 

lining  modem  statues  of  twenty- eight  Jewish  kings  replacing 

lose  destroyed  during  the  Revolution.    Above  the  gallery,  in  the 

ntre,  rises  a  statue  of  the  Virgin,  with  two  angels  bearing  lights, 

the  right  and  left  of  which  are  figures  of  Adam  aud  Eve.  — 

e  centre  of  the  second  story  is  occupied  by  a  large  Mse-win- 

',  42  ft.  in  diameter,  with  the  simple  tracery  of  the  early*'Gothic 

a.   At  the  sides  are  double  pointed  windows.  —  The  third  story 

gallery  composed  of  pointed  arches  in  pairs,  a\>o\i\.^^  1\..  Vcv 

bt,  harae  by  very  slender  columns ,   eacli  doxvVA©  ax^li.  \i^Vcv% 

Psiis.  UtbEdit.  \5 


J 


226  9.  NOTBE-DAME. 

Clowned  with  an  open  tiefoil.  Above  this  gallery  rans  a  balustrade, 
surmounted  with  figures  of  monsters  and  animals ;  and  the  facade 
then  terminates  in  two  uncompleted  square  towers ,  eaeh  pierced 
with  a  pair  of  pointed  windows,  about  54  ft.  in  height.  The  lateral 
portals  also  deserve  inspection.  The  S.  door  of  the  transept  is  em- 
bellished with  fine  iron-work.  The  spire  above  the  cross,  147  ft.  in. 
height,  and  constructed  of  wood  covered  with  lead,  was  erected  in 
1859.  The  exterior  of  the  choir  has  a  charmingly  li^ht  and  elegant 
effect,  with  its  bold  flying  buttresses  and  windows  surmounted  bji 
pediments. 

The  Interior  is  open  to  visitors  the  whole  day,  and  the  choir 
from  10  to  4 ;  tickets  admitting  to  the  sacristy,  treasuiy,  and  chap- 
ter-house are  procurable  on  week-days  from  the  verger,  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  choir  in  the  right  aisle  (see  p.  227).  On  Sundays  an« 
festivals  the  choir  is  closed  after  divine  service. 

The  church,  which  consists  of  a  nave  and-  double  aisles,  crosse*- 
by  a  single  transept,  is  139  yds.  long  and  52  yds.  broad.  The.  doubl  - 
aisles  are  continued  round  the  choir,  affording  the  earliest  example 
of  this  construction.  The  choir  is  semicircular  in  form,  as  In  mos 
early -Gothic  churches.  The  chapels  introduced  into  the  spaces 
between  the  buttresses  of  the  aisles  and  choir  are  in  a  late-Gothic 
style.  The  vaulting,  110  ft.  high  in  the  nave,  is  borne  by  75  pillars 
most  of  which,  unlike  those  in  other  Gothic  buildings,  are  round! 
Above  the  inner  aisles  runs  a  triforium  borne  by  108  small  columniff 
and  the  clerestory  is  pierced  with  37  large  windows.  The  ancient 
stained  glass  of  the  roses  over  the  principal  and  lateral  portals  i^ 
worthy  of  inspection.  To  the  right  of  the  S.  portal  are  two  marble 
slabs  in  memory  of  75  victims  of  the  Commune  (p.  179).  Thp 
pulpit,  designed  by  Viollet-U-Duc^  and  executed  by  Mirgen,  is  m 
masterpiece  of  modem  wood-carving.  In  the  transept,  by  the  piei: 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  choir,  is  a  mediaeval  statue  of  the  Virgin,  the 
real  ^Notre  Dame  de  Paris',  held  in  high  veneration  by  the  faithful. 

The  Choir  and  Ambulatory  are  separated  from  the  nave  by  very 
handsome  railings.  The  choir-stalls  and  the  reliefs  in  wood,  chiefly 
representing  scenes  from  the  history  of  Christ  and  the  Virgin,  should 
be  noticed.  In  the  sanctuary  are  a  modem  high-altar  (1874),  a 
Pietii  in  marble  by  N,  Coustou  (known  as  the  Vow  of  Louis  XIII.), 
and  statues  of  Louis  XIIL  and  Louis  XIV.,  also  by  Couatou. 

The  ambulatory  is  entered  from  the  S.  transept.  The  choir-screen 
is  adorned  with  twenty -three  interesting  *Relief8  in  stone,  re- 
presenting scenes  &om  the  life  of  Christ,  by  Jean  Bavy  and  his 
nephew/" Jean  Le  Bouteiller ,  completed  in  1351 ,  and  once  richly 
gilded,  \Jhese  are  notable  achievements  of  Gothic  sculpture,  vary- 
ing soiiewhat  in  the  execution  (which  was  spread  over  a  series  of 
years),]  but  all  marked  by  monumental  dignity,  calm,  and  beauty. 

The  choir-chapels  contain  a  number  of  monuments,  chiefly  of  former 
archbisbopa  of  Paris.  Beginning  at  the  eacTisty:  Archb.  Jffre{.&.  1849  ^  see 
p.  7i),  by  Deb&Yi  ArcTib.  Sibour  Qd.  1151),  b^  l>\i\)0\%\  *Con«U  d^HarconH 


9.   ILE  ST.  LOUIS.  227 

(4. 1718).  rtpreBBntiiig  a  dead  man  riaing  from  the  tomb,  by  Pigalle ;  Arch/>. 
DmboM  (d.i871),  byBonnaMieox :  Cardinal  i/(>rio((d.l863),by  LucomeliBUhop 
UaiifiH  dt  Bwv  (d.  1904),  behind  the  high  altar  ^  Cardinal  de  BeUop  (d.l806), 
»  mmp  in  marble  by  Deseine,  representing  the  prelate  at  the  age  of  ninety- 
siae  .^Ting  alms :  ArM>,  de  Quelm  (d.  1^),  by  G.  Dechaame ;  Cardinal 
4it  JToaUks  (d.  1729),  by  the  same,  in  a  chapel  adorned  with  frescoes  by 
Xaniot;  Arehb.  de  Juigni  (d.  1811),  by  Gartellier ;  Arehb.  de  Beaumont  (d.  1781) ; 
moBBment  of  Marshal  Guibriant  (d.  1648),  and  his  wife  Renie  du  Beo-Oripin. 

The  Organ^  bnilt  in  1750  and  restored  and  enlarged  by  A.  CavailH-GoU 
ia  1868,  is  one  of  the  finest  instruments  in  Earope,  with  6000  pipes  (the 
IsttHt  about  82  ft.  in  height),  10  octaves,  86  stops,  110  registers,  5  manuals, 
aad  pedals  with  1X3  pedal-combinations.  The  choir  of  Notre-Dame  has  a 
reputation  for  its  ^lain  song\ 

At  the  beginning  of  the  retro-choir,  on  the  right  (S.)  side,  is  the  en* 
trance  to  the  SaerUty  (adm.  10.30  to  4,  5,  or  6;  1  fr.),  erected  in  1846-48 
by  Vionet-le-Dne  in  the  same  style  as  the  cathedral.  In  this  and  in  the 
a^oining  Chapter  House  is  the  — 

TsBAiUBT.  most  of  the  objects  in  which  are  modem  and  of  litOe  art- 
2ittc  Talne.  A  sacristan  shows  and  explains  the  various  objects,  with 
the  vsoal  unaatisfactory  haste  of  such  guides.  The  communion  vessels, 
^  fbe  mediseval  style,  presented  by  Napoleon  III.,  are  noteworthy.  The 
tticient  objects  indude  a  large  Greek  cross,  enamelled  (12th  or  ISth  cent.), 
<Uver  busts  of  88.  Denis  and  Louis  (14th  cent.),  and  various  chalices,  re- 
^itarieB,  and  vestments  of  the  13-16th  centuries.  Among  the  objects  of 
^^utoficai  interest  are  the  coronation  robes  of  Napoleon  I.  and  the  blood- 
*t«iaed  clothes  and  other  mementoes  of  the  archbishops  Afire  (p.  71), 
^nnmr,  and  Darboy  (p.  180). 

TowsBS.  The  *yiev  firom  the  towers  of  Notre-Dame  (223  ft.  in 
^olght),  one  of  the  finest  in  the  city,  embraces  the  course  of  the  Seine 
^th  its  nameions  bridges  and  the  principal  public  edifices  in  the 
on^ixons.  The  entrance  to  the  towers  is  outside  the  church,  by  the 
^*  tower,  to  the  left  of  the  portals.  The  ascent  may  be  made  in 
'UnuneT  from  9  to  4  or  5,  on  payment  of  50  c.  (including  the  bells). 
^e  platform  on  the  summit  is  reached  by  397  steps.  In  the  S.  tower 
^'^gB  the  great  Bourdon  de  Notre-Dame^  one  of  thj^^est  bells  in 
otiirtenee,  weighing  15  tons;  the  clapper  alone  we^Hhearly  half- 
^''^ton.  Another  bell  here  (not  used)  was  brought  frofflsebastopol. 

At  the  back  of  the  Cathedral  is  another  ^place\  occupying  the  site  of 
^  old  arehiepiscopal  palace,  in  the  centre  of  which  rises  the  tasteful 
voihie  FonUdme  Notre-Dame^  designed  by  Vigoureux^  and  erected  in  1845. 
At  the  S.B.  end  of  the  He  de  la  Cit^,  not  far  from  the  fountain  just 
Jjaeribed,  stands  the  Korgue  (open  daily),  a  small  building  re-erected  in 
'864,  where  the  bodies  of  unknown  persons  who  have  perished  in  the 
^▼er  or  otherwise  are  exposed  to  view.  They  are  placed  on  marble 
iwbs,  kept  cool  by  a  constant  flow  of  water,  and  are  exhibited  in  the 
^ofhes  in  which  they  were  found.  The  process  of  refrigeration  to  which 
ttie  bodies  are  subjected  makes  it  possible  to  keep  them  here,  if  necessary, 
for  three  months.  The  bodies  brought  here  number  700-800  annually. 
The  painfol  scene  attracts  many  spectators,  chiefly  of  the  lower  orders. 

The  He  St.  LouIb  (PL  B,  22;  F),  an  island  aboYe  that  of  the 
Cittf,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  means  of  the  Poni  8t,  LouiSj  a 
few  paces  to  the  N.  of  the  Morgue,  contains  some  interesting  build- 
ing of  the  17th  century.  —  The  Church  of  St,  LouU-en-V lUy  on  the 
light  of  the  principal  street,  dates  from  the  17-18th  cent.;  it  contains 
f  some  interesting  paintings  (mostly  modem)  &i\^  %omei  «ixvi>\  \i^^- 
lelielii  of  the  idtb  century.  —  At  the  end  ol  t^ie  i^U^eV,,  Vi  ^^V^'l^. 


228  9.  ST.  StVERIN. 

(No.  2\  stands  the  handsome  H6tel  Lambbbt,  built  in  the  17th  cent, 
by  Levau  for  Lambert  de  Thorigny,  and  decorated  with  paintings  by 
Le  Brun  and  Le  Sueur.  The  ceiling-painting  of  the  ^Galerie  Le 
Brun'  represents  the  marriage  of  Hercules  and  Hebe.  Voltaire  was 
once  the  guest  of  Mme.  Duchatel  here.  The  mansion  now  belongs 
to  Prince  Czartoryski,  who  a'^mits  visitors.  Near  by,  on  the  Qual 
d'Anjou  (No.  17),  is  the  Hotel  Lauzun  (1667),  purchased  by  the  city 
in  1900  and  soon  to  be  opened  as  a  municipal  museum  of  art.  — 
The  adjacent  Boul.  Henri  IV.  (p.  72)  crosses  to  the  right  bank  by 
the  Pont  Sully.  Beside  the  bridge  is  the  Monument  ofBarye  (1795- 
1876),  the  famous  animal  sculptor,  with  reproduction  of  his  most 
celebrated  works:  the  Centaur  (p.  108),  Lion  and  Serpent  (p.  166), 
and  War  and  Peace.   The  medallion  is  by  Marqueste. 

II.  FBOK  THE  OlTt  TO  THS  MTTB^E  DE  OLTJNT. 
Fontaina  8t.  Hiohel.    St.  BAverin.    Eoole  de  Kddeoine. 

Approaching  the  left  bank  from  the  Oit^  by  the  Boul.  du  Palais 
de  Justice  (p.  220),  we  cross  the  narrower  arm  of  the  Seine  by  the 
Pont  St,  Michel  (PI.  R,  19 ;  V),  a  handsome  bridge,  rebuilt  in  1867, 
which  commands  a  fine  view  of  Notre-Dame.  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
bridge  we  reach  the  Boulevard  St.  Michel,  the  chief  street  of  the 
QuABTiBR  Latin  ,  where  the  ways  of  the  French  student  may  be 
studied  in  or  in  front  of  the  numerous  caf^s.  It  forms  a  link  in  the 
line  of  boulevards  traversing  Paris  from  the  Gare  de  TEst  to  the 
Carrefour  de  I'Observatoire  (p.  285).  To  the  left,  below  the  Quai 
St.  Michel,  is  a  station  of  the  Orleans  line  (p.  27). 

On  the  right,  in  the  Place  8t.  Michel,  we  observe  the  Fontaine 
St.  Michel,  ^^ntain  84  ft.  high  and  48  ft.  in  width,  erected  in 
1860.  The^^Biment,  which  stands  against  a  house,  consists  of 
a  triumphal^Kh  in  the  Renaissance  style,  containing  a  group  of 
St.  Michael  and  the  dragon  in  bronze,  by  Duret,  placed  on  an  artifi- 
cial rock,  from  which  the  water  falls  into  three  basins  flanked  with 
griffins.  At  the  sides  of  the  niche  are  columns  of  red  marble  bear- 
ing allegorical  bronze  figures  (1860). 

The  Ru€  de  la  Httehette,  beginning  to  the  E.  of  the  fountain,  and  the  Rm 
8t.  84verin^  to  the  left  beyond  the  foantain.  penetrate  one  of  the  dirtiest 
and  most  intricate^  but  at  the  same  time  most  interesting  and  best  preserved 
quarters  of  old  Paris.  Here  lies  the  church  of  'St.  Biverin  (PI.  R,  19;  F), 
one  of  the  oldest  in  Paris,  dating  from  the  ll-16th  centuries.  It  consists 
of  a  nave  and  double  aisles  flanked  with  ehapels.  The  facade  is  now 
composed  of  a  portal  of  the  13th  cent.,  brought  from  a  church  in  the  Cit^ 
which  was  taken  down  in  1837,  with  a  handsome  tower  of  the  15th  cent, 
rising  above  it.  The  Intbsiob  is  also  worthy  of  inspection.  The  spacious 
nave  has  two  rows  of  windows.  The  *Stained  Glass  in  the  large  upper 
windows  dates  from  the  15th  and  16th  cent.,  that  in  the  other  windovis 
and  in  the  chapels  is  modern.  Handsome  modern  high-altar  (1893).  The 
modem  mural  paintings  in  the  chapels  are  by  Heim,  Signal,  Sehnetx.Hippolyte 
Flandrin^  Bes§e,  and  others ;  but  all  are  faded  and  rendered  obacure  by 
the  stained-glass  windows.  The  chapels  at  the  end.  dedicated  to  Kotre 
I}swe  de  J'J£spdrBDce  and  Xotre  Dame  des  Sept  Dooieurs,  contain  sculp- 
iarea  »nd  votive  offerings. 


9.  h6tel  db  oluny.  229 

A  littla  firther  on,  near  tlie  Rae  Laerange,  U  the  imall  and  ancient 
ebnreb  of  Bt.  Julien-le-Panvre  (PI.  B,  19-22 1  v)y  the  ehapel  of  the  former 
HAtel-Dlea.  It  is  an  nnaasuming  edifice  in  the  Gothic  ftyle  of  the  12th  cent., 
wtthomt  pftttal  or  tower,  but  the  choir  and  side-apeet  are  bitereating.  It  is 
BOW  ooenpied  aa  a  Qreek  church  (open  8-10  a.m.)  ^  gervices  on  Son.  and  fea- 
tivalt  at  10  a.m.  In  the  left  aisle  la  a  statae  of  Hontyon  (1733-1820).  the  well- 
known  philanthropiat  (p.  246).  The  entrance  ia  Ko.  11  in  the  Rue  St.  Julien- 
Id-Paavre,  through  a  narrow  and  dirty  court,  which  ia  to  be  improved. 

Retnmliig  to  the  Bonl.  St.  Michel,  we  next  cross  the  Boulevard 
8U  Oermainy  near  the  Thermes  and  the  H6tel  de  Cluny  (see  below). 
This  modem  bouloTard  forms,  with  the  Boulevard  Henri  lY.,  a  thor- 
onglifare  on  the  left  bank  from  the  Place  de  la  Bastille  to  the  Place 
de  la  Concorde,  a  distance  of  2^/4  M.  Though  these  streets  are  by 
no  means  so  important  as  the  Grands  Boulevards,  their  point  of 
Junetlon  is  one  of  the  busiest  spots  in  Paris. 

A  few  paces  to  the  right,  in  the  Boul.  St.  Germain,  is  the  Ecole 
d«  lUdoeina  (PI.  B,  19 ;  V),  a  huge  block  of  buildings  of  the  18th 
cent.,  between  the  boulevard  and  the  Rue  de  TEeole-de-M^decine. 
The  modem  fa^de  towards  the  boulevard,  by  Ginain,  is  in  the  same 
lefTerely  plain  style  as  the  W.  facade  of  the  Palais  de  Justice  and 
the  fa^de  of  the  new  H6tel  des  Postes.  The  two  caryatides,  by 
Orauk,  represent  Medicine  and  Surgery.  The  handsome  court  is 
flanked  with  an  Ionic  colonnade ,  at  the  end  of  which  -rises  a  bronze 
statue  of  Biehatj  the  anatomist  (d.  1802),  by  David  d' Angers. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  is  a  large  new  addition,  con- 
taining the  Ecole  Fratique  or  laboratories.  Adjacent,  to  the  left,  is 
the  refeetory  of  an  old  Franciscan  monastery,  where  the  revolution- 
ary *Club  des  Cordeliers'  held  its  meetings,  now  occupied  by  the 
Mutie  Dupuytreriy  a  valuable  pathological  -  anatomical  collection, 
open  to  students  and  to  visitors  furnished  with  a  permit,  daily,  except 
Sun.  and  holidays,  from  11  to  4.  On  the  fourth  floor  of  the  same 
building  is  the  Musie  dC Anthropotogie  Broca  (skeletons,  skulls,  etc.). 

The  Library  (90,000  vols.)  ia  open  to  students  and  medical  men  daily, 
except  on  Sondaya,  holidays,  and  in  vacation  (Sept.  and  Oct.),  11-6  and 
7.9O-IO.9O  o^clock.  The  Ecole  also  possesses  a  Museum  of  Comparative 
Anatmwff^  named  Hutie  Orfila  after  its  celebrated  founder  (d.  1803) ;  it  is 
open  on  the  aame  conditions  as  the  library. 

In  the  open  apace  to  the  W.  of  the  Ecole  de  M^decine  are  bronze 
atataea  of  P.  Broca  (1824- 18S0),  aurgeon  and  anthropologist,  by  P.  CShoppin, 
and  of  Danton  (1759-1794),  as  *organiser  of  the  national  defence^  by  A.  Paris. 

The  *H6tel  de  Clnny  (PI.  R,  19 ;  V)  occupies  part  of  the  site 
of  a  Roman  palace  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by  the  Emperor 
Gonstantius  Chlorus,  who  resided  in  Gaul  from  !292  to  806.  Julian 
was  proclaimed  emperor  by  his  soldiers  here  in  360 ;  and  this  was 
the  residence  of  the  early  Frankish  monarchs  until  they  transferred 
their  seat  to  the  Cit^  (p.  219).  The  only  relics  of  the  palace  stiU 
existing  are  the  ruins  of  the  Thermes,  or  baths  once  connected  with 
it  (p.  1S7). 

About  1334  the  abbots  at  the  wealthy  BeuoQac^VTift  KXi\»«i  oV 
OluBY  (nesr  Micon,  in  Bnrgandy),   who  owneA  laxxeXk  t^^  fe^\^\v? 


230  9.   MUSfiE  DE  OLTJNY. 

in  Paris,  acquired  the  luins  of  the  Roman  palace  and  seem  to  ha^e 
erected  a  building  here.  The  present  H6tel  de  Gluny,  a  remarkably 
fine  specimen  of  the  late-Gothic  style,  was  built  by  Abbot  Jacques 
d'Amboise  at  the  end  of  the  15th  cent,  and  retains  its  original  ap- 
pearance almost  unaltered. 

The  Revolution  converted  this  estate  into  national  property, 
and  in  1833  the  H6tel  de  Gluny  came  into  the  possession  of  M.  Alex, 
du  Sommerardj  a  learned  and  indefatigable  antiquarian.  On  his 
death  in  1842  the  edifice  with  its  valuable  collections  was  purchased 
by  government,  and  united  with  the  Thermos,  which  had  hitherto 
belonged  to  the  municipality  of  Paris.  The  collection  has  since 
been  largely  extended. 

The  ^Musie  de  Clnny  comprises  a  most  valuable  collection  of 
mediaeval  objects  of  art  and  products  of  industry.  As  there  are 
upwards  of  11,000  objects,  a  single  visit  will  hardly  afford  an  idea 
of  even  the  most  important.   Director,  M.  Edm.  Saglio, 

Admission.  The  Mus^e  de  Cluny  et  des  Thermes  is  open  to  the  public 
every  day  except  Hon.  and  certain  holidays  (p.  56),  from  11  to  4  on  Sun. 
and  to  5  on  week-days  in  summer  (April  Ist-Oct.  Ist) ,  and  from  11  to  A 
in  winter.  Catalogue  in  paper  covers  4  fr.,  in  boards  5  ft.  Explanatory 
labels  are  attached  to  many  of  the  exhibits.  Large  selection  of  photo- 
graphs for  sale.    Sticks  and  umbrellas  must  be  given  up  (no  fee). 

The  entrance  is  at  No.  14,  Rue  du  Sommerard,  adjoining  the 
new  square  of  the  Sorbonne.  We  enter  the  enclosed  court  by  a  large 
gate  or  by  a  vaulted  postern,  both  adorned  with  sculpture.  The  main 
building  and  projecting  wings  have  Gothic  windows  with  stone  mul- 
lions,  an  open-work  parapet,  and  graceful  dormer-windows.  In  the 
middle  of  the  facade  rises  a  short  and  massive  tower.  The  left  wing 
has  four  large  Gothic  arcades.  In  the  right  wing  is  the  entrance  to 
the  garden  (p.  238).  The  door  of  the  museum  is  at  the  right  corner 
of  the  main  building. 

Gkottnd  Flock.  J.  Boom.  Railing,  panels,  chests,  and  statues 
in  wood,  of  different  dates.    Weights  and  measures;  mortars. 

//.  Boom,  To  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance,  Gothic  benches 
with  canopies,  now  fitted  with  shelves  on  which  are  busts  of  saints, 
statuettes,  and  small  groups  of  saints  in  wood  of  the  15th  and  16th 
centuries.  In  the  glass-cases,  an  extensive  collection  of  shoes  from 
various  parts  of  the  world.  On  the  walls  are  farther  wood-carvings. 
Between  the  windows  on  the  right,  a  marriage-chest  of  the  16th 
cent.  (No.  1337).  Similar  chests  on  both  sides  and  by  the  fire- 
place. —  The  stone  chimney-piece  is  adorned  with  high-reliefs 
dating  from  1562. 

III.  Boom.   Entrance-wall :  ♦TOO.  Large  carved  altar-piece  in 

gilded  and  painted  wood,  of  the  end  of  the  15th  cent. ;  to  the  right, 

♦712. Flemish  altar-piece  (16th  cent.);  to  the  left,  816,  788.  Holy 

Women  and  Mater  Dolorosa  (16th  cent.).  In  the  centre :  1422.  Ger- 

zaan  Oothic  candehhmm,  of  the  end  of  the  15th  cent. ;  radiating 

/rame  with  miniatuTes  and  reproductiotiB  ot  ipT\Tv\A  tjS.  \Xi«k  ^C»wawv\iQ 


Boulevard         SJ      Michel 


AiiTito        3-p  aw>^ 


9.    MUSfiE  DE  CLUNY.  231 

de  Lumidie*  of  Aix  la  Obapelle  (12fh  cent.).  By  the  windows  on 
both  sides :  medals.  On  the  other  wall :  no  number,  *Altar-plece, 
larger  than  and  as  fine  as  that  opposite ;  to  the  right,  715.  Oalvary, 
triptych  in  carred  wood  (16th  cent.);  to  the  left,  •710.  German 
triptych  in  carved  wood,  painted  and  gilt,  of  the  end  of  the 
15ih  cent,  upon  a  French  credence  of  the  15-16th  centuries.  Sev- 
eral fine  Gothic  cabinets. 

IV.Boom»  Furniture  of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries.  Medals  and 
counters  relating  to  the  history  of  France  and  Paris ;  small  plaques 
and  medals  of  the  15-1 6th  centuries.  The  chimney-piece,  with  a 
bas-relief  representing  Act»on  changed  into  a  stag,  dates  from  the 
16th  century. 

V.  Boom.  ColUetion  Audeoud,  presented  to  the  museum  in 
1885.  This  consists  of  Italian  and  Spanish  works  of  art  of  the  17th  and 
18th  cent,  amongst  which  we  first  notice  a  Presepe  or  Crib,  com- 
posed of  about  50  statuettes  in  rich  costumes,  with  expressive  faces 
and  well  arranged  (Neapolitan,  17th  cent.).  In  the  comer  to  the 
right  is  a  similar  but  smaller  work.  Then  a  large  glass-case  con- 
taining painted  statuettes  and  groups  of  the  Massacre  of  the  Inno- 
cents and  the  Last  Supper,  etc.  At  the  back,  richly  sculptured  and 
gilt  Tabernacle,  from  the  top  of  an  altar,  a  Spanish  work  of  the 
17th  century.  Carved,  inlaid,  and  painted  furniture.  Richly  framed 
mirrors.   Portions  of  a  Spanish  bed ;  leathern  hangings. 

Corridor.  Italian  paintings  (14- 16th  cent.);  panels  from  a 
Spanish  altar-piece  of  the  15th  cent.;  another  altar-piece  of  the 
same  date  and  provenience. 

VL  Room  (on  the  right),  lighted  from  the  roof,  with  a  door  to 
the  Thermos  (p.  237 ;  to  the  left),  and,  like  the  following  room,  sur- 
rounded with  a  gallery,  which  is  accessible  &om  the  first  floor 
only.  iScutptiifM,  especially  religious  statues,  bas-reliefs,  and  orna- 
ments. By  the  entrance,  Virgin  and  St.  John  at  Calvary,  Flemish 
works  (15th  cent.).  In  the  centre,  several  figures  of  the  Madonna  and 
of  saints  (14-15th  cent.);  Virgin  at  Calvary  (16th  cent.;  painted); 
Angel  of  the  Annunciation,  a  Pisan  work  (14th  cent.).  To  the 
right,  monuments  of  the  Grand  Masters  of  the  order  of  St.  John  of 
Rhodes.  By  the  walls,  several  altars  of  the  13-1 5th  cent. ;  statues 
and  alabaster-reliefs  of  the  14th  century.  On  cabinets  to  the  left, 
interesting  groups  and  statuettes,  including  a  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin  (15th  cent.),  five  ♦Statuettes  of  mourners  from  the  tomb  of 
Philippe  le  Hardi,  by  Claux  Sluter,  at  Dijon  (end  of  14th  cent.), 
and  a  marble  Presentation  in  the  Temple  (14th  cent. ;  No.  435). 
Above,  tapestries  of  the  15th  century. 

VII.  Room,  to  the  left  of  the  corridor,  opposite  R.  VI.  Gallery,  see 
above.  On  the  walls  are  three  admirable  pieces  of  ^Flemish  tapestry, 
of  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  belonging  to  a  series  of  ten  pieces^ 
representing  the  history  of  David  and  Bathaheba.  lix^^  ^^««i-^^%>^'^^ 
eeelesJsstical  restments  and  ornaments,  lace,  aTi^ivc^wfc  %\.xs>S%^  ^^^««^. 


232  .9.  MUSftB  DE  GLUNY. 

Around  are  interesting  Bonlptoxes :  to  the  right  of  the  entrance, 
282.  Astronomy,  284.  Gramniar,  on  a  frieze  in  high  relief;  farther  on, 
•460.  Flora,  a  caryatid  (all  these  of  the  I6th  cent.);  *448.  Marble 
group  of  the  Fates,  attributed  to  O,  PUon^  with  a  relief  of  the  school 
of  Jean  Ooujon  on  the  pedestal;  *251.  Madonna  and  Child  (16th 
cent.).  To  the  right  of  the  door  to  the  next  room,  449.  Ariadne 
deserted  (16th  cent.);  466.  Sleep;  450.  Venus  and  Oopid,  by 
J.  Cousin.  Then,  453.  Bearing  of  the  Cross,  454.  Entombment,  455. 
Ascension,  three  bas-reliefs  of  the  16th  century.  —  On  the  other 
side  of  the  doorway :  479.  Entombment,  an  Italian  work  of  the  17th 
cent. ;  457.  Christ  appearing  to  Mary  Magdalen,  Flemish  high-relief 
of  the  16th  century.  In  front  of  the  door  are  two  radiating  frames 
with  specimens  of  textile  fabrics.  Hanging  from  the  ceiling,  Vene- 
tian lantern  (16th  cent.). 

VIII.  Room.  Continuation  of  the  tapestry,  ecclesiastieal  vest- 
ments, lace,  etc.;  *Draperie8,  mantles,  and  collars  of  the  Order  of  the 
Holy  Qhost,  founded  by  Henri  III.  in  1579  (comp.  p.  138).  In  the 
centre,  *Lantem  of  a  Venetian  galley  (16th  cent.);  two  handsome 
monolithic  columns  (16th  cent.)  supporting  two  statues  ri5th  cent.). 
To  the  right  of  the  entrance  :  463.  Queen  of  Sheba ;  494.  Genius 
from  a  tomb,  by  O.  Pilon  or  Oiae.  Ponzio;  bas-relief  from  the 
Ch&teau  d'Anet;  493.  Shepherd.  To  the  left  of  the  ejitrance:  487. 
Venus  and  Cupids  (17th  cent.) ;  735.  Gilded  wooden  statuette,  a 
German  vork;  462, 4(34.  Judgment  of  Solomon ;  Virgin  in  high  relief 
(No.  273)  and  other  sculptures  of  the  16th  cent;  291.  Portion  of  a 
chimney-piece  by  C.  de  Vriendt,  At  the  end,  sculptured  fragments 
from  the  old  H6tel  de  ViUe. 

IX.  Room.  Sumptuous  8taU  Carriage$  of  the  17th  and  18th 
cent.,  sledges,  rich  trappings,  Sedan  chairs. 

First  Floor.  We  return  to  the  corridor  between  Rooms  VI. 
and  VII.  and  ascend  a  wooden  staircase  with  the  arms  of  Henri  IV., 
formerly  in  the  Palais  de  Justice. 

In  the  Corridor  are  weapons  and  suits  of  armour. 

1 8t  Room^  to  the  left.  French,  Flemish,  German,  and  Dutch  Fayenee, 

Porcelain,  and  Earthenware  of  the  16 -18th  centuries.    1st  Glass 

Case,  to  the  left :  French  fayence  and  glazed  earthenware.  2nd  Case 

(opposite):  Porcelain  from  Dresden,  Vienna,   Ludwigsburg,   and 

Frankenthal.    3rd  Case :  Earthenware  from  Germany  and  Limburg. 

Beside  it,  two  charming  terracottas  by  Clodion  (1783).   4th  Case: 

*Pali8sy  and  Oiron   fayence  (16th  cent.).    5th  Case  (opposite): 

Fayence  from  Lorraine;  other  works  by  Clodion;  1303-6.  Medallions 

of  Franklin  and  others  by  Nini,  of  Nevers ;  statuettes,  etc.  6th  Case : 

Specimens  from  Sceaux,  Paris,  Niedervillers,  Strassburg,  Marseilles, 

Alcora  (Spain),  and  Moustiers.  7th  Case :  *Rouen.  8th  Case :  Nevers. 

9th  Case:  Rouen  and  Sinceny.  10th  Case:  Dutch  fayence  (Delft). 

/y^i&  Case:  Aprey  and  Lille.    12th  Case:  German  fayence.  Tiles. 

2nd  Room^  opposite.   Magnificent  coWwUoi^^il*  ItaUoiv  Fayence 


9.   BfUSfiB  DB  CLUNY.  233 

of  the  15-18tli  cent.,  classed  aecording  to  schools,  in  eight  glass 
OMet.  From  right  to  left:  Oase  I.  Faenza;  II.  Oaffaggiolo  and 
^Demte;  IIL  *Derata;  IV.  *Onbbio  (majolica)  and  Gastel  Durante; 
V-VIL  Urbino;  VIII.  Venice,  OasteUo,  and  Castelli  —  Above  and 
beside  Oases  VI  and  VII  are  bas-reliefs  in  painted  terracotta  by 
Luea  della  Bobbia  and  his  school  (15th  cent.). 

3rd  Boom  (to  the  right  of  R.  2).  ^TapetitieB  of  the  15th  cent. ; 
those  in  the  lower  row  are  known  as  the  'tapestry  of  the  lady  and 
the  unicorn' ;  those  above  represent  the  history  of  St.  Stephen  and 
tlie  discovery  of  his  relics.  Fine  carved  chimney-piece  (legend  of 
the  Santa  Casa  of  Loretto)  and  ceiling  from  a  house  in  Rouen  (16th 
cent.).  Handsome  oaken  doors.  Works  in  Oold^  Silver,  Olass,  and 
and  ^Erhomel  (chiefly  from  Limoges ;  comp.  p.  138). 

Oase  1,  near  the  windows:  'Bcdesiastical  work  in  gold,  reliquaries, 
book-covers,  crosses,  crosiers,  etc.,  with  champlev^  enamels  (12- 13th  cent.). 
—  Oase  2:  'Limoges  enamels  (15th  cent.)  by  the  Pinieaud*;  *4678.  Calvary, 
by  Niurdtm  Fiitieaud  (160B):  4576.  Piet&,  by  Monvaemi,  the  earliest  master 
Juiown  by  name.  —  Case  3:  *Limoges  enamels  (16-1 7th  cent.);  4617-4630. 
Large  oval  medallions  representing  scenes  from  the  Passion  (1557)^  4579. 
Bleanor  of  Austria,  wife  of  Francis  I.,  and  portraits  (on  each  side)  of  the 
Duke  and  Duchess  of  Guise,  all  by  Leonard  Limousin;  4591,  4593-96,  4606, 
4611,  4612.  Oups,  plates,  and  writing  apparatus,  by  Pierre  Reymand,  Jean 
Courteyt,  F.  O.  Mouret^  etc.  —  Case  4 :  *4589.  Reliquary  of  Catherine  de 
Xtfdieis  (by  Martin  JHdier'i\  and  upwards  of  thirty  smaller  enamels,  by 
/Vnloaittf,  CoHrtey«,  Limotain,  Gouty  Noylier,,  Suzanne  Courts  etc.  —  Case  5 : 
4638-54.  Sixteen  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Passion,  by  P. 
Beymond.  Enamels  by  P.  Courteys^  the  Laudins,  and  the  Noylier*.  Above, 
4010.  Enamelled  plate  (.1udj»ment  of  Paris),  by  P.  Reymond;  4590.  Pope 
Clement  y II.,  by  Couiy  A'oylierO);  4606.  'Plat  de  Moise\  by  P.  Pinieaud; 
large  plaques  by  M.  JHdier. 

In  the  two  caaes  in  the  second  row:  German  loving  cups  and  a  lamp 
from  a  mosque  (13th  cent.) ;  Italian  p:lass,  gilded  and  engraved  (14th  cent.) ; 
Then  a  collection  of  wood-carvings  from  cabinets.  At  the  back  two  other 
eases  with  glassy  in  the  case  to  the  right,  Venetian  glass :  4779-4782.  Plates 
(16th  cent.),  with  paintings  of  Psyche  and  Proserpine,  Delilah  and  Sampson, 
Jano  and  Isis ,  Birth  of  Bacchus.  In  the  case  to  the  left :  French  glass . 
Between  these  oases:  *  Venetian  marriage-chest  (16th  cent.)  ^  *German  altar- 
piece  in  beaten  copper  (12th  cent.),  and  two  candelabra  from  Limoges 
(13th  cent.).  On  the  wall,  nine  large  plaques  of  enamel  on  copper,  re- 
presenting divinities  and  allegorical  subjects,  by  Pierre  Courtey*^  brought 
nom  the  old  Ohiteau  de  Madrid  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  (p.  161).  These 
are  the  largest  enamels  known  (5  ft.  6  in.  x  8  ft.  4  in.).  Beside  the  doors 
are  Interesting  cabinets  and  statues  of  the  15-17th  centuries. 

4ih  Boom,  ^HispanO'  Moorish  Fayence  with  metallic  glazing 
(14-17th  cent.)  and  ^Bhodian  Faycnee  of  the  same  period,  made 
by  Persian  workmen.  A  few  bronze  vases  are  also  placed  here.  In 
the  windows,  old  stained  glass. 

5th  Boom,  Objects  illustrating  the  Jewish  religion  (the  gift  of 
Baroness  Nathaniel  Rothschild) :  furnitare,  goldsmith's  work,  jewels, 
MSS.,  embroideries.  The  chimney-piece  dates  from  the  15th  century. 

6th  Boom.  Case  1 :  Musical  instruments,  psaltery,  mandolins, 
'kits'  or  pocket-violins  used  by  dancing-masters,  violin  by  Amatl. 
Oase  2:  Collection  of  caskets.  By  the  wall :  in  the  centie^l^W^Tv\.\x\<& 
cabinet,  with  costly  mosaics  (i7ih  cent.)-,¥lemls\iCii\i\.ive\,^^^^«^'v.^\ 


234  9.   MUSfiE  DE  OLUNY. 

three  Italian  writing-tables  inlaid  with  tin  (all  of  the  18th  cent.) ; 
and  a  ^Venetian  Cabinet  of  the  16th  cent.,  representing  the  facade 
of  a  palace,  adorned  with  plaqnes  of  ivory  and  mother-of-pearl, 
paintings,  and  bronze-gilt  statuettes.  Near  the  windows,  Cabinets 
of  the  16th  centnry. 

7th  Room,  Flemish  cabinets  of  the  17th  cent. ;  two  ancient  Chin- 
ese vases  in  cloisonne  enamel.  The  ceiling-painting  was  executed 
in  the  17th  century. 

8th  Room.  State-bed  of  the  time  of  Francis  I.  (16th  cent.);  to  the 
right  and  left,  1431,  1432.  French  cabinets  (IBthcent.).  —  To  the 
right  of  the  chimney-piece :  1424.  Cabinet  from  Clairvaux  Abbey, 
time  of  Henri  II.  (16th  cent.).  —  Opposite  the  windows :  1426, 1426. 
Cabinets  (16th  cent:).  Central  glass-case :  MSS.  with  miniatures 
of  the  13-16th  cent.,  including  portraits  of  Columbus  (No.  1817) 
and  Palissy  (1818).  Above,  statuettes;  743.  Wooden  figure  of  the 
Virgin  (15th  cent.);  ♦865.  Wood-carving  representing  two  women 
fighting.  At  the  Ist  window,  moulds  for  pastry  (16-18th  cent.).  At 
the  2nd  window :  tobacco-graters  (17th  cent.)  in  carved  wood ;  sets 
of  draughtsmen,  ivory  snuff-boxes,  pepper-boxes,  nut- crackers 
(16-1 7th  cent.). 

9th  Room.  Works  in  Ivory.  —  1st  Glass  Case  to  the  right: 
1081.  Italian  triptych  of  the  14th  cent.,  with  bas-reliefs  of  scenea 
from  the  Gospels;  no  number,  German  hunting-horn  filth  cent.); 
to  the  left,  1068.  Pastoral  staff  in  boxwood  and  ivory  (l3th  cent.) ; 
to  the  right,  1088.  Fragment  of  a  triptych  of  the  14th  cent. ;  no 
number,  book- cover  (9th  cent.).  —  2nd  Case  on  the  right :  1042, 
1041.  Plaque  carved  on  both  sides  with  mythological  and  Christian 
scenes  (10-llth  cent.);  1038.  Book-cover  (10th  cent.);  no  number, 
♦Plaque  of  a  consular  diptych  (5th  or  6th  cent.);  1039, 1048.  Reliefs 
of  the  10th  and  of  the  ll-12th  cent.;  to  the  right,  1035.  Marriage 
of  Emperor  Otho  II.  and  Theophano,  daughter  of  the  Greek  emperor 
Romanus  II.,  in  973;  1033,  1034.  Fragments  of  boxes  of  the 
6th  cent.;  no  number,  Byzantine  casket  (9th  cent.),  Latin  plaque 
of  the  6th  cent. ;  1036  and  no  number,  Plaques  of  the  17th  cent- 
ury. —  Large  Glass  Case:  1062.  Reliquary  of  St.  Yved  in  ivory, 
12th  cent.;  1037.  Madonna,  10th  cent.;  six  Madonnas,  12th,  13th, 
14th,  and  17th  cent.;  1106.  St.  Catharine,  15th  cent.;  6296-97.  Two 
lions'  heads  of  rock-crystal,  3rd  or  4th  cent.,  found  in  a  tomb  on  the 
Rhine,  together  with  an  ivory  statuette  (1032)  with  the  attributes 
of  several  deities  (between  the  lions'  heads).  At  the  back :  1087. 
Madonna  (14th  cent.);  1060.  Reliquary  with  51  bas-reliefs  of  Scrip- 
tural subjects  (14th  cent.);  1090.  Coffer  of  the  same  style  and 
period ;  several  other  coffers ;  portable  altar  (German ;  16th  cent.), 
with  ivory  carvings  of  the  12th  century.  —  1st  Glass  Case  to  the 
left:  Powder-horns,  graters,  snuff-boxes,  knives  and  forks  with 
ivory  handles  (17th  cent.).  2nd  Case  to  the  left:  Wax  medallions 
snd  medals.  —  On  the  side  next  the  enttaTitft^,  \4fei,  \AA%  Carved 


9.  MUSfiE  DE  OLUNY.  235 

ebony  cabinets  of  tiie  17th  cent  and  portionB  of  others  of  the  same 
period  (others  opposite).  Case  between  tiie  cabinets :  Ivory  carv- 
ings and  wooden  statnettes ;  no  nnmber,  Adam  and  Eve,  by  Franehe~ 
vttU  (?  17th  cent);  to  the  right,  1153.  Figure  resembling  the  Man- 
neken  Pis  at  Bmssels  and  by  the  same  artist,  Duquemoy  (1619). 
1113.  Yirtne  chastising  Vice ,  attributed  to  Ohvanni  da  Bologna^ 
on  a  round  pedestal  of  the  19th  cent. ;  below,  1056, 1057.  Venetian 
coffers  (13th  cent).  —  First  window  towards  the  garden:  Carved 
distaffs  and  spindles  (16th  cent.) ;  girdle  of  chastity.  Between  the 
windows  and  by  the  back -wall:  1458,  1457.  Ebony  cabinets 
(17th  cent).  In  the  adjoining  glass-cases,  statuettes,  busts,  medal- 
lions, ivory  carvings  of  the  16-18th  centuries.  —  First  window 
towards  the  court:  Parcel -gilt  plaques  from  a  coffer  of  the  late 
15th  cent. ;  several  other  plaques  In  ivory  (14-1 5th  cent),  some  per- 
forated and  of  great  delicacy,  t,g»  1177.  Diptych  of  the  17th  cent., 
with  tablets  no  larger  than  a  nutshell,  containing  102  figures.  Be- 
tween the  windows,  on  the  right:  1079.  Oratory  of  the  Duchesses 
of  Burgundy,  14th  century.  —  Second  window  :  in  the  centre,  no 
number,  Fine  triptych  in  high-relief  (14th  cent.);  1062,  1063-66 
(to  the  right),  Scenes  from  the  Passion  and  legends  of  martyrs 
(14th  cent.) ;  to  the  right  and  left,  leaves  of  diptychs  of  the  14th  and 
15th  cent,  with  Biblical  scenes;  1055,1069-73.  Boxes  with  mirrors 
of  the  14th  century. 

lOik  Boom,  Works  in  iron,  locksmith's  work,  bronzes. 

Case  1,  OB  the  side  next  the  court:  Locks,  knockers,  etc.  (IS-lTth  cent.); 
iron  coffer  inlaid  with  gold  and  silver  (17th  cent.).  —  Case  2 :  Locks,  flat 
bolts,  etc.  (i4-18th  cent.)  —  Case  3,  by  the  end-wall:  Keys.  —  Case  4 
(above  Case  3):  &706.  Stirrups  of  Francis  I.;  5003,  above,  StatueUe  of 
St.  Catharine  of  Bologna  (17th  cent.);  censers.  —  1409.  Credence-table  of 
the  16th  cent.;  above,  no  number,  Bronze  Statuette  of  Joan  of  Arc 
(1412^1).    6114.  Florentine  mirror  mounted  in  damascened  iron  (16th  cent.). 

—  Case  6:  Huntsman*s  kit  of  knives  and  instruments  (16th  cent.).  —  Case 
6  (above) :  6189,  5190.  Pewter  ewer  and  basin,  by  Fr.  Briot ;  5181.  Silver 
goblet  (16th  cent.)  in  the  shape  of  a  lady  in  the  costume  of  the  period.  — 
Case  7,  on  the  side  next  the  garden:  Locks,  bolts,  and  knockers  (16th  cent.). 

—  Case  8 :  Small  plaques ;  bosses  from  horses*  bits  (16th  cent.) ;  cork- 
screws, pincers  (17-ldth  cent.).  —  Case  9.  6599.  Double  girdle  of  chastity 
(Italian).  —  On  a  credence-table  of  the  16th  cent. :  1271.  Italian  relief  in 
iron  of  the  Wise  Virgins  (16th  cent.).  —  Case  10:  *Locks  and  •Keys  of  the 
16th  cent.  (2nd  key  to  the  right  in  the  first  row  made  by  Louis  XVI.).  — 
Cases  11  A  12:  Statuettes  and  other  bronzes.  —  Case  13,  in  fh>nt  of  the 
chimney-piece:  Iron  coflers.  To  the  right,  bronze  measures.  To  the  left: 
Italian  andirons  (16th  cent.);  serpents  of  the  17th  century.  —  Case  14: 
Bronze  knockers;  bolt  and  lock  of  the  15th  cent.;  6126.  Penitential  belt. 
At  the  sides  of  this  case :  Bell-metal  font  from  a  church  near  Hamburg 
(14th  cent.);  leaden  baptismal  basin  (14th  cent.);  hinge-ornaments  from 
Notre  Dame;  roasting-jack;  smoothing  irons.  Italian  celestial  globe  (1502). 
*Goldsmith''s  bench  and  tools,  German  work  of  1565,  inlaid  and  carved, 
the  iron  portions  delicately  engraved.  6054.  Large  and  handsome  chest  in 
forged  iron  (17th  cent.).  Hanging  from  the  roof.  Lantern  of  the  I6th  cent., 
with  the  arms  of  Lorraine.  —  The  chimney-piece  dates  from  the  16th 
century. 

llth  Room.   ♦Objects  in  the  precioTia  meU\*.  C>^"&^  \.^  ^^ tVs^ 
of  the  entrance  next  the  garden  :  Large  coWecdoiv  ot  ^^^iwv?..,  Vst>k'^^ 


236  9.   HUS^E  DB  OLUKT. 

knives,  scissois,  oases  of  instriunents  of  various  Idnds,  of  the 
16-17th  cent.;  5129.  Mirror  (closed^  of  the  16th  eeatnry.  Next 
case:  Ghurch  ornaments  of  the  13-17th  cent.,  Incladlng  6014.  Re- 
liquary in  the  shape  of  a  BCadonna,  in  beaten  and  g^ded  silver  (15th 
cent.),  and  four  other  reliquaries  of  the  same  period.  Following 
case:  Various  objects  in  gold  and  other  precious  metals,  partly 
enamelled ;  snuff-boxes,  etc.  5278.  Portrait  of  Francis  I.  On  the 
wall:  5068.  Abbot's  crozier,  16th  cent.;  5069.  Orozier  of  the  17th 
cent. ;  5070.  Processional  banner  (15th  cent.),  representing  a  'mir- 
acle of  the  Host'  that  occurred  at  Paris  in  1290 ;  5066.  Orozier  of  the 
14th  century.  On  the  same  wall  and  opposite.  Six  pieces  of  Flemish 
tapestry,  of  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century. 

Central  cabinet:  ♦♦4979-87.  Nine  gold  crowns,  found  at  Goaz- 
razar  near  Toledo  in  1858  and  1860,  the  largest  of  which ,  inlaid 
with  pearls,  Oriental  sapphires,  and  other  Jewels,  is  said  by  the  in- 
scription (probably  added  when  the  crown  was  converted  into  a 
votive  offering)  to  have  belonged  to  the  Visigothic  king  Receeswind 
(649-72>  —  1st  OUss  Case  on  the  left,  next  the  garden:  *5005. 
Golden  rose  of  Bale,  presented  by  Pope  Clement  V.  to  the  Pxlnoe- 
Bishop  of  Bale  (14th  cent.);  5010,  5017.  Reliquaries  of  the  same 
treasure,  15th  cent. ;  5029, 5021, 5022.  Reliquaries  and  monstranoes, 
also  of  the  15th  century.  —  2nd  Glass  Case  on  the  same  side :  5042. 
Large  double  cross  in  gilded  copper,  forming  a  reliquary,  riehly 
decorated  with  filigree-work  and  jewels,  a  valuable  Limoges  work  of 
the  13th  cent. ;  ♦5044.  Processional  cross,  in  silver,  gilded,  engrav- 
ed, and  enamelled,  with  statuettes  at  the  ends  representing  the 
Virgin,  St.  John,  St.  Peter,  Mary  Magdalen,  etc.,  a  very  interesting 
Italian  work  of  the  14th  cent. ;  5043.  Archiepiscopal  oross  in  silver- 
gilt  filigree,  lavishly  enriched  with  jewels,  pearls,  and  antique  out 
gems,  and  containing  eight  small  reliquaries  (Limoges,  13th  cent.) ; 
5025,  5026.  Italian  shrines  (15th  cent.);  5007.  Italian  reliquary 
(14th  cent.);  no  number,  Italian  monstrance  (15th  cent). 

By  the  first  window:  to  the  left,  ^5104.  Ship  in  gilded  and  enam- 
elled bronze,  with  movable  figures  of  Charles  V.  (in  gold)  and  his 
dignitaries,  a  piece  of  mechanism  executed  in  the  16th  century.  — 
(ilass  Case :  ♦5299.  Chess-board  with  men  of  rock-crystal,  a  German 
work  of  the  15th  cent. ;  other  objects  in  precious  metal  or  gems, 
chiefly  of  the  15-17th  centuries.  —  Between  the  windows:  Silver 
ornaments  of  the  15th  and  17th  cent.;  German  drinking-horn  (15th 
cent.).  —  By  the  second  window :  Gallic  torques  and  other  objects, 
in  massive  gold,  found  near  Rennes  in  1856 ;  4989.  Merovingian 
military  ornament,  in  gold  (end  of  a  sword-belt);  4990.  Merovingian 
scabbard,  mounted  in  gold;  1040.  Cover  of  a  book  of  the  Gospels, 
ivory  with  gold  filigree,  10th  cent ;  5076.  Silver  clasp,  gilded  and 
enamelled,  a  German  work  of  the  14th  cent. ;  no  number,  Ooifer  in 
sJIrer-gilt  Mgree  work,  embellished  with  pearls  and  gems;  6041. 
Double  cross  J  in  siiver-gilt,  adorned  w\t\i  ^i^Yo^qa  %\AiA%^filifree 


9.   THBBMES.  237 

work,  andToliefs  (18th  cent.);  *5103.  Prize  for  orossbow-sliooting, 
in  Bllver-gilt,  emboBsed  and  cliased  (German,  ISth  cent). 

GlasB  Case  lt>y  the  end-wall:  French  seals,  with  coats-of-arms 
(17- 18th  eent.).  *4988.  Golden  antependium  presented  by  Emp. 
Henry  11.  (d.  1024)  to  the  cathedral  of  B^le,  3  ft.  high  and  5V2  ft. 
wide,  with  embossed  reliefs,  a  most  Interesting  specimen  of  the 
gbldsmitVs  art,  probably  executed  by  Lombard  artists  nnder  By- 
lantine  influence.  The  tapestry  and  carpet  also  come  from  B&le 
(16-i7th  cent.). 

In  the  adjoining  case,  next  the  garden :  Astrolabes,  compasses, 
clocks  of  the  16-17th  cent. ;  set  of  instruments  of  a  German  archi- 
tect of  the  16th  century.  —  Next  case :  Covers  of  a  Gospel;  Last 
Sapper  in  chased  and  gilded  copper  with  enamels,  Limoges  work  of 
the  12th  and  13th  cent ;  vessels  used  as  hand-warmers  (13th  and 
16th  cent.);  opposite  the  window.  Reliquary  of  St.  Anne,  by  Hans 
Greifff  a  famous  Nuremberg  goldsmith  (1472);  abbots'  croziers 
(12-t4th  cent).  —  Case  by  the  window:  Watches  of  the  17th 
and  18th  cent.,  girdles,  chains,  ornaments,  collar  of  the  order  of 
the  Holy  Annunziata. 

We  return  to  Room  8.   On  the  right  is  the  — 

l^th  Boom.  State-bed  (17th  cent.).  To  the  left,  English  astro- 
nomical clock  (17th  cent.).  On  the  chimney-piece:  937.  The 
C3iild  Jesus  in  an  attitude  of  benediction,  a  statue  by  Duqttesnoy. 
At  the  window :  Collection  of  book-bindings  (16-18th  cent.). 

We  next  enter  the  rich  Gothic  ^Chapel,  which  is  borne  by  a 
pillar  in  the  centre.  To  the  left,  Large  Flemish  altar-piece,  15th 
century.  Opposite,  Gothic  chairs  and  stalls.  On  the  site  of  the  altar, 
in  a  projecting  apse,  Large  wooden  reliquary  (15th  cent.).  In  front, 
large  copper  reading-desk.  At  the  end :  Christ,  a  wooden  statue  of 
life-size,  12th  cent. ;  statues  of  the  Virgin  and  St.  John ,  from  an 
Italian  *Calvary*,  13th  cent.;  wooden  doorway  (15th  cent). 

From  this  chapel  a  staircase  descends  to  a  small  garden-court,  affording 
a  view  of  the  exterior  of  the  chapel-apse.  Immediately  to  the  left,  at  the 
foot  of  the  staircase,  is  a  door  leading  into  B.  VI  (p.  !£)3),  from  which  the 
Thermea  are  entered. 

The  Therme8>  or  ruins  of  the  baths  once  belonging  to  the  an- 
cient palace  of  the  emperors  (p.  229),  are  on  the  side  adjoining  the 
Boul.  St.  Michel.  The  fact  that  the  largest  hall,  which  was  the 
Frigidarium,  or  chamber  for  cold  baths,  is  65  ft.  in  length,  37^/2  ft* 
in  breadth ,  and  59  ft.  in  height ,  will  serve  to  convey  some  idea 
of  the  Imposing  dimensions  of  the  ancient  Roman  palace.  The  archi- 
tecture is  simple,  but  the  masonry  is  so  substantial  that  the  weight 
and  moisture  of  a  garden  which  lay  above  it  for  many  years  down 
to  1810  haye  left  it  uninjured.  The  vaulting  is  adorned  with  ships' 
prows,  in  allusion  to  the  fact  that  Lutetia  lay  on  a  navigable  river, 
whence  the  modern  armorial  bearings  of  Paris  are  said  to  be  derived. 
A  number  of  the  Roman  antiquities  found  at  'PaxV^  vt^  y^^^^v^^^ 
here,  lout  they  will  not  interest  ordinary  visitoia.    'I^  ^^\^^\.^^ 


238  9.   SOBBONNB. 

statue  of  the  £mp.  Julian  (comp.  p.  92).  Opposite,  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  hall,  originally  occupied  hy  the  piscina  or  swimming- 
bath,  is  a  mosaic  of  the  Gallo-Roman  period.  The  Tepidariuntj  or 
warm  bath,  was  in  the  part  adjoining  t^e  boulevard,  now  destitute 
of  vaulting. 

The  *Cfardenf  or  Square  Chtny^  the  only  entrance  to  which  is  through 
the  court  of  the  *hoter  (p.  229)  contains  interesting  medieeval  scalptures 
and  architectural  remains,  including  a  large  Romanesque  portal  from  the 
Benedictine  church  at  Argenteuil.  Facing  the  Hotel  de  Cluny  is  a  cast  of 
the  fine  M  donna  of  Xotre-Dame  at  Paris. 

About  300  yds.  beyond  the  Hotel  Cluny,  the  Boul.  St.  Germain  reaches 
the  Place  Maubertf  with  a  monument  to  Etienni  DoM  (p.  345). 

III.  FBOK  THE  mrS^E  SE  OLirNY  TO  THE  PANTHEON. 

Borbonne.   College  de  France.  Bibliotheqne  Bte.  GeneviiTe.  St.  Etienne- 

dn-Kont. 

Opposite  to  the  entrance  of  the  H6tel  de  Cluny  is  the  small 
Square  de  la  Sorhonne,  laid  out  in  1899  and  containing  a  group  of 
sculpture  ('Pro  Patria  Morituri')  by  T.  Noel.  Beyond,  in  the  Rue 
des  Ecoles,  rises  the  facade  of  the  new  Sorbonne  (see  below). 

The  Sorbonne  (PI.  R,  19;  F),  a  building  erected  in  1B29  by 
Cardinal  Richelieu  for  the  Theological  Faculty  of  the  University  of 
Paris,  is  now  mainly  devoted  to  the  Faculties  of  Literature  and 
Science  (des  Lettres  et  des  Sciences).  The  two  other  faculties  belong- 
ing to  the  university  (jurisprudence  and  medicine)  occupy  separate 
buildings  (pp.  240,  229). 

The  Sorbonne  was  originally  a  kind  of  hostel  founded  by  Robert  de 
Sorbon^  the  confessor  of  St.  Louis,  in  1253,  for  the  reception  of  poor  stu- 
dents of  theology  and  their  teachers ;  but  it  soon  acquired  such  a  Mgh 
reputation  that  it  became  the  centre  of  the  scholastic  theology ,  and  its 
name  came  to  be  applied  to  the  theological  facnlty  itself.  This  establish- 
ment has  exercised  considerable  influence  on  Catholicism  in  France.  While 
violently  hostile  to  the  Reformation,  the  Sorbonne  was  hardly  less  strongly 
opposed  to  the  Jesuits ;  and  for  a  long  period  it  rejected  the  authority  of 
the  ^Unigenitus*  bull  directed  against  the  Jansenists  (1713).  The  faculty 
next  came  into  collision  with  the  philosophers  of  the  18th  cent.,  of  whose 
witticisms  it  was  frequently  the  butt,  until  it  was  abolished  by  the  Re- 
volution. 

In  1808  the  Sorbonne  was  made  the  seat  of  the  *Universit^  de 
France*  (under  which  term  the  French  included  the  authorities  who 
superintend  the  education  of  the  whole  country),  but  in  1896  it 
once  more  became  the  University  of  Paris,  the  various  provincial 
Academies  being  raised,  at  the  same  time,  to  the  rank  of  independ- 
ent universities.  The  total  number  of  students  in  the  five  faculties 
is  about  12,000,  including  3-400  women.  The  lectures  are  open  to 
the  public  gratis. 

Since  1885  the  Sorbonne  has   been   practically  rebuilt  (the 

church  excepted),  from  plans  by  Ninot.   The  edifice  is  a  vast  pile, 

270  yds.  long  and  110  yds.  broad,  having  been  considerably  ex- 

tended  to  the  N.  and  S.    The  main  part  is  now  on  the  N.,  present- 

/q^  a  huge  fsLQ&de  to  the  Rue  des  E^le^^  mt>\v  two  pediments 


9.  SOBBONNE.  239 

(Science ,  by  Mereii;  Literature,  by  Chapu)  and  eight  statues: 
Gbemistry  (to  the  left),  by  Injalheri;  Natural  History,  by  Carlier ; 
PhyBlce,  by  Lefeuvre;  Mathematics,  by  Suehetet;  History,  by  Cor- 
donnier;  Geography,  by  Afor^ic^^tf;  Philosophy,  hy  Longepied ;  and 
Archeology,  by  Paris. 

The  yeatibale  on  this  side  contains  statnes  of  Homer,  by  Delaplcmehe^ 
and  Archimedes,  by  Falguihr$,    In  the  centre  are  the  principal  entrance 
and  the  staircase  to  the  galleries  of  the  great  amphitheatre  (see  below  \ 
•how^n  by  the  concierge  on  Thurs.  or  Sun.  afternoons;  fee).    The  apper 
vestibule  is   adorned  with  mnral   paintings  illustrating  literature ,   by 
fUumtng  (to  the  right  of  the  principal  door),  and  Science,  by  Chartran 
(to  the  left).    Flameng^s  paintings  represent:  Founding  of  the  Sorbonne; 
Abelard  and  his  school;  Jean  Heysselin  establishing  the  first  printing- 
press  at  the  Sorbonne;  Etienne  Dolet,  Amyot  Ronsard,  Marot,  Babelais, 
Hamns,  La  Boetie,  Brantdme,  Budeeus,  L'Bstoile,  and  Montaigne ;  Riche- 
lieu  laying  the  foundation  of  the  Sorbonne  chapel;  the  Rector  of  the 
Sorbonne  and  Henri  IV. ;  Moli^re,  Racine,  Lafontaine ;  La  Rochefoucauld, 
BoUin,  principal  of  the  College  de  Beauvais  (at  Paris) ;  Qainet,  Villemain, 
Guisot,  Kichelet,  Cousin,  and  Renan.   At  the  side,  a  statue  of  the  Republic, 
by  D4lhomme.   Chartran^s  paintings,  also  beginning  at  the  door,  represent: 
Louis  IX.  studying  mathematics;  Ambroise  Par€  tying  arteries;  B.  Palissy 
teaching  mineralogy;  Buffon  writing  his  'Histoire  Katarelle';  Pascal  ex- 
plaining   to  Descartes    his  theories   of   atmospheric    pressure;  Lavoisier 
ez|»ounding  his  pneumatic  theory  to  Berthollet ;  Cuvier  studying  anatomy; 
Laennec,  inventor  of  the  stethoscope ;  Arago  teaching  astronomy.  —  The 
Large  AmphUfiMtre^  which  holds  HoOO  persons,  is  frequently  the  scene  of 
meetings  and  public  functions.    It  contains  six  statues:  Sorbon  by  Crauk^ 
Richelieu  by  Lanton^  Descartes  by  Coutan^  Pascal  by  E.  Barria*^  Rollin  by 
Chaplain^  and  Lavoisier  by  Dalou.    The  end  of  this  hall  is  decorated  with 
a  large  allegorical  ^Painting  (*The  Sacred  Grove*)  by  Puvi»  de  Chavannee, 
the  painters  masterpiece  and  perhaps   the  finest  decorative  painting  of 
modern  times  (in  the  middle  the  Sorbonne   to  the  left  the  Historic  Sciences, 
to  the  right  the  Exact  Sciences).    The  cupola  is  by  QaUand.    The  other 
rooms  (nut  shown  to  the  public)  have  paintings  by  Wencker^  BenJ.  Constant, 
Lerolie^  Jasin,  Johbi-Duval,  Lhermitte,  Boll,  and  Baph.  CoUin, 

The  Ghuboh  of  thb  Sorbonne,  the  usual  entrance  of  which  is 
in  the  Place  de  la  Sorbonne,  is  the  only  part  of  the  original  building 
that  has  been  preserved.  It  was  built  by  Card.  Richelieu  in  1635-59 
and  ii  surmounted  by  a  conspicuous  dome.  In  the  interior,  to  the 
left  of  the  entrance,  is  a  large  picture  by  Hesse :  Robert  de  Sorbon 
presenting  young  students  of  theology  to  St.  Louis ;  to  the  right, 
the  tomb  of  the  Due  de  Richelieu  (d.  1822),  minister  of  Louis  XVIII. 
The  right  transept  contains  the  History  of  Theology,  a  large  picture 
by  TtmbcU,  and  the  marble  ♦Tomb  of  Cardinal  Richelieu  (d.  1642), 
designed  by  Le  Brun,  and  executed  by  Oirardon  in  1694.  The  car- 
dinal is  represented  in  a  semi-recumbent  posture,  supported  by 
Religion,  while  Science  sits  by  in  an  attitude  of  grief.  The  last 
statue  has  been  particularly  admired.  In  the  left  transept  is  a 
Scourging  of  Christ,  in  marble,  \>y  Barney  the  Younger,  The  spandrels 
of  the  dome  are  painted  by  PhU.  de  Champaigne, 

Opposite  the  church  of  the  Sorbonne  is  the  small  Place  de  la 
Sorbonne,  beyond  which,  in  the  Boul.  St.  Michel,  is  the  Lycie  St. 
LouiSy  formerly  the  College  d'Harcourt,  founded  in  1280 « 

A  little  farther  on,  to  the  right  of  the  Boul.  S\.  "!&it\i€V  Wi^  \i^%\^fe  >Jv^^ 
lAJxemboarg  Garden  (p.  262),  is  the  little  Place  MidicU,  Vn.  ^\i\<^  »•  Sa^-wa 


N 


240  9.    PANTHfiON. 

of  Pasteur  (p.  288),  by  Falgaiire,  is  to  be  erected.    The  Eue  Soaffiot  leads 
hence  to  the  Pantheon  (see  below). 

Behind  the  Sorbonne,  in  the  Rue  des  £cole8,  is  the  Ck)llege  de 
France  (PI.  B,  19;  F),  founded  by  Francis  I.  in  1530,  entirely  re- 
built at  different  times  between  1611  and  1774,  and  restored  and 
extended  in  1831.  The  original  name,  *Golldge  des  trois  langnes", 
denoted  its  dedication  to  students  from  different  proyinces.  The  in- 
scription ^Docet  omnia*  over  the  entrance  indicates  that  its  sphere 
embraces  every  branch  of  science.  The  lectures  aie  intended  for  the 
benefit  of  adults,  and  are  of  a  popular  character.  The  public  are 
admitted  gratis,  ladies  included.  The  college,  which  contains  about 
50  chairs,  is  not  connected  with  the  uniyersity,  but  is  under  the  direct 
control  of  the  minister  of  public  instruction.  Many  illustrious  men 
have  taught  here:  Ampere,  Barth^emy-St-Hilaiie,  Michelet,  Quinet, 
Ste.  Beuve,  Renan,  Berthelot,  etc.  —  A  bronze  statue  of  Claude 
Bernard  (1813-78),  the  physiologist,  by  Guillaume,  has  been  erected 
in  front  of  the  side  of  the  GolUge  facing  the  Rue  des  Ecoles.  Adja- 
cent, to  the  right,  is  a  statue  of  Dante  (1265-1321),  by  Aub^.  In 
the  court  on  the  side  next  the  Rue  St.  Jacques  are  a  si&tue  of  Budaeus 
(^BudS;  1467-1540),  one  of  the  learned  founders  of  the  institution, 
by  M.  Bourgeois,  and  some  bronze  busts.  The  marble  statue  of 
Champollion  (1790-1832),  the  Egyptologist,  in  the  vestibule,  is  by 
Bartholdi. 

Farther  on,  the  Bue  des  Ecoles  passes  the  Sqaare  Monge  (p.  214)  and 
ends  behind  the  Halle  aaz  Vins  (p.  267),  near  the  Jardin  des  Plantes  (p.  264). 

We  now  ascend  the  old  Rue  St.  Jacques ,  to  the  right  of  the 
College  de  France.  On  the  right  is  the  massive  new  pile  of  the  Sor- 
bonne, with  the  tower  of  its  observatory ;  on  the  left  is  the  LyeSe 
LouiS'le-Orand  (rebuilt  by  Le  CoBur  in  1887-96),  formerly  the  Gol- 
Uge de  Clermont  belonging  to  the  Jesuits.  Farther  on,  to  the  left, 
is  the  Ecolede  Droit,  or  school  of  jurisprudence  connected  with  the 
university,  rebuilt  in  1892-97,  and  extending  to  the  Place  du  Pan- 
theon. We  then  reach  the  wide  and  handsome  Bue  SouffLot,  which 
leads  to  the  Jardin  du  Luxembourg  (p.  262)  and  to  the  Pantheon. 


The  ^Faathion  (PI.  R,  19,  V;  admission ,  see  p.  241)  stands 
on  the  highest  ground  in  the  quarters  of  the  city  on  the  left  bank, 
occupying  the  site  of  the  tomb  of  Ste.  Genevieve  (422-512),  the  patron 
saint  of  Paris.  The  chapel  erected  over  her  tomb  was  succeeded  by 
a  church,  which  having  fallen  to  decay  was  removed  about  the  middle 
of  last  century.  The  present  edifice,  designed  in  the  classical  style 
by  Souffloty  was  built  in  1764-90.  The  new  church  was  also 
dedicated  to  Ste.  Genevieve,  but  in  1791  the  Convention  resolved 
to  convert  it  into  a  kind  of  memorial  temple,  which  they  named 
the  'Pantheon*,  inscribing  on  it  the  words,  ^Aux  grands  hommet  la 
patrie  reconnai88anie\  It  was  restored  to  religious  uses  in  1806,  but 
was  agtdn  made  a  temple  after  tbe  3ul7  BA^oVoiVioTi  in.  1830.  Once 


9.  PANTHEON.  241 

more  conBecrated  in  1851,  it  was  finally  secularised  in  1886  for  the 
obseqniea  of  Victor  Hugo. 

Aj>mis8ion.  The  Pantheon  is  open  daily,  except  Mob.,  from  10  to  5 
(4  in  winter).  For  the  dome  and  vaults  an  order  is  necessary  from  the 
Administration  des  Beaux  Arts,  Rne  de  Valois  8  (Palais-Boyal),  for  which 
application  should  be  made  in  writiog.  The  vaults  are  open  to  the  public 
on  All  Souls'  Day  (Nov,  2nd},  but  are  then  overcrowded. 

ExTBBiOB.  The  edifice  is  of  most  imposing  dimensions,  and  its 
form  is  that  of  a  Qreek  cross,  370  ft.  long  and  276  ft.  wide,  sur- 
mounted by  a  dome  272  ft.  in  height  and  over  75  ft.  in  diameter. 
The  dome  rests  on  a  lofty  cylinder  or  drum  enclosed  by  an  open 
Corinthian  colonnade,  and  is  crowned  with  a  lantern.  A  huge 
colonnade  consisting  of  twenty -two  fluted  Corinthian  columns, 
81  ft.  in  height ,  resembling  that  of  the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  forms 
the  portico,  to  which  eleven  steps  ascend.  The  tympanum,  117  ft. 
long  and  23  ft.  high,  contains  a  fine  *Group  of  sculptures  by  David 
cP Angers  (d.l856),  illustrative  of  the  inscription  mentioned  above. 
The  principal  figure,  16  ft.  in  height,  represents  France,  between 
Liberty  and  History,  distributing  wreaths  to  her  sons. 

Under  the  portico  are  two  groups  in  marble  by  Maindron 
(d.  1884) :  Ste.  Genevi&ve  imploring  Attila,  the  leader  of  the  Huns, 
to  spare  the  city  of  Paris ;  and  the  Baptism  of  Glovis  by  St.  Remigius. 

Intbbiob.  Three  handsome  bronze  doors  form  the  entrance  to 
the  limple  but  majestic  interior.  On  each  side  of  the  aisles  is  a 
GorintMan  colonnade,  bearing  a  gallery  running  round  the  church. 
Over  the  centre  of  the  edifice  rises  the  dome,  which,  according  to 
Soufflot*B  design,  was  to  have  rested  on  columns,  but  these  proved 
too  weak  for  the  weight  of  the  superstructure.  J.  Rondelet ,  who 
succeeded  Soufflot  in  1781 ,  substituted  pillars,  connected  by  massive 
arches,  for  the  original  columns,  to  the  detriment,  however,  of  the 
general  effect  produced  by  the  nave.  The  dome  consists  of  three 
sections,  one  above  the  other,  the  second  of  which  is  adorned  with 
paintings  (see  p.  242).  The  paintings  in  the  spandrels,  by  Carvalho^ 
after  Oirard^  represent  Death,  France,  Justice,  and  Glory. 

The  decoration  of  the  Pantheon  was  originally  entrusted  to  Paul 
Ghenavard  of  Lyons,  but  his  cartoons  (1848-51),  now  in  the  Lyons 
picture-gallery,  were  never  executed.  The  mistake  was  then  made 
of  giving  the  commission  to  various  artists  of  very  diverse  tenden- 
cies ;  and  the  natural  result  is  a  sad  want  of  harmony  in  the  general 
effect. 

Beside  the  principal  door  are  statues  of  St.  Denis,  hyjPerraud, 
and  St.  Remigius,  by  Cavelier,  On  the  wall  of  the  nave,  to  the  right, 
Preaching  of  St.  Denis,  by  Oallandj  ♦Childhood  of  Ste.  Genevieve,  by 
Puvis  de  Chavarmes  (1877).  On  the  left.  Martyrdom  of  St.  Denis,  by 
Bonnat;  Attila  on  the  march  to  Paris,  and  Ste.  Genevieve  encourag- 
ing the  Parisians  during  the  approach  of  Attila,  by  Delauxia^  (^^ 
1891)  and  Courcelles-Dumont,  Above  these  Mi^\kftiQ>^<i^Vcv^^^'c^- 
in^s  are  smaller  co/npositions,  more  or  lew  ie\^X.fe^  \.^  ^^  Vs^«^ 
Basdkkbm.  Paris.  Uth  Edit.  V^ 


242  9.  PANTHEON. 

scenes  (here,  French  saints).   At  the  first  pillars,  to  the  right  aa»  ^ 
left ,  statues  of  St.  Qermain ,  by  Chapu ,  and  St.  Martin ,  by  Cab^  m 
dindBeequet.  Right  transept:  Coronation  of  Charlemagne,  andChaKVi 
lemagne  as  restorer  of  literature  and  science,  by  H.  Livy ;  at  the  en^ 
Pilgrimage  to  Ste.  Genevi^ye  and  Procession  with  her  relics,  bV 
Maillot^  and  a  piece  of  tapestry,  ^Gratia  Plena' ;  to  the  left,  Baptis.^^ 
of  Clovis  and  his  Vow  at  the  battle  of  Tolbiac,  by  Jos.  Blanc   ZH^ 
the  right  of  the  choir,  Death  of  Ste.  Genevieve,  by  J.  P.  Lauren 
and  a  statae  of  the  saint ,  by  GuUlaume,    By  the  pillar ,  statues 
St.  Gregory  of  Tours,  by  Frimiet,  and  of  St.  Bernard ,  by  Joufft^mn 
Paintings  on  the  left  side,  by  PavU  de  Chavannes:  Ste.  Genevi^^  i 
bringing  provisions  to  the  beleaguered  Parisians ;  *Ste.  Genevi^^  v 
watching  over  the  sleeping  city  (1898).     In  the  apse  is  a  mo^^e, 
of  a  curious  colossal  statue  of  Liberty  by  Falguitre.     On  the  va^'D/^ 
is  Christ  showing  to  the  Angel  of  France  the  destiny  of  her  people, 
a  mosaic  hy  Hubert.    Left  transep*;:  St.  Louis  as  a  boy,  as  ruler, 
and  as  captive  of  the  Saracens,  by  Cabanel.  To  the  right:  Joan  of 
Arc  at  Domremy,  before  Orleans,  at  Bheims,  and  at  the  stake  in 
Rouen,  \)y  Lenepveu;  at  the  end.  Prayer,  Labour,  Patriotism,  De- 
votion, by  Humbert,  and  a  piece  of  tapestry,  *Pro  Patria'.  —  By  the 
pillar,  statues  of  St.  Jean  de  Matha,  by  Hiolle,  and  of  St.  Vincent 
de  Paul,  by  Falguiere. 

The  Dome  (adm.  by  order  only,  see  p.  241)  is  reached  by  a  staircase 
(425  steps)  in  the  left  (K.)  transept.  We  ascend  139  steps  to  the  roof,  and 
then  192  more  to  the  first  section  of  the  dome,  where  we  obtain  a  view 
of  the  painting  in  the  second  section ,  executed  by  OroSj  in  1834.  ThiB 
large  composition,  which  finds  many  admirers,  covers  a  surface  of  8S2  sq. 
yds.,  and  represents  Ste.  Genevieve  receiving  homage  from  Glovifl  (the  first 
Chri!^tian  monarch),  Charlemagne,  St.  Louis,  and  Louis  XVIU. ;  above  are 
Louis  XVI.,  Marie  Antoinette,  Louis  XVII.,  and  Madame  Elisabeth,  the 
victims  of  the  Eevolution.  —  We  may  now  ascend  by  94  steps  more  to 
the  lantern,  which  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  city  and  envirpns, 
but  less  interesting  than  that  from  the  Tour  St.  Jacques  or  Notre-Dame,  as 
its  position  is  not  so  central. 

The  entrance  to  the  Vaults  (Cavaux),  which  are  uniuterMting,  is  »t 
the  end  of  the  building,  to  the  left.  They  are  supported  by  20  piUars,  and 
divided  by  partitions  of  masonry.  Mirdbeau  was  the  first  person  whOM 
remains  were  deposited  here  (1791),  and  near  him  was  placM  MmnU^  tlie 
most  furious  of  the  Jacobins,  who  fell  in  1793  by  the  hand  of  (Sianotte 
Corday;  but  their  bodies  were  afterwards  removed  by  order  of  the  Coft' 
vention. 

To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  monument,  in  poor  taste,  eraeted  f 
J,  J,  Rousseau  (1712-1788).  On  the  other  side,  to  the  left,  is  a  moBustst 
to  Voltaire  (1094-1778),  with  his  sUtue  after  Houdon.  —  Opposite  Voltitre*! 
tomb  is  that  of  So%r/lot  (1713-1781),  the  architect  of  the  Panth^  a  plafto^ 
model  of  which  is  shown  beneath  the  left  transept.  Farther  on,  to  tke 
left,  is  a  vault  in  which  are  placed  the  remains  of  General  Lauar§  <kf9*[ 
(1753-1823),  ^organizer  of  victory*,  member  of  the  Convention,  and  those  of 
President  Camot  (1837-1894).  General  Mareeau  (1769-1796),  La  Tow  d^AvurgM 
(1743-18(X)  i  the  brave  soldier  who  refused  promotion  and  was  named  t>7 
Napoleon  Hhe  first  grenadier  of  France),  and  Baudin  (IBli-lBU),  reprisal' 
tative  of  the  people  (p.  208).  On  the  other  side  are  the  tombs  of  Vieior 
^uffo  Ci802-85),  Marshal  Lannes  (1769-1809),  Lagrange  (1736-181^  the  mstbe- 
matieian,  BougainvUU  (lT29-i8il),  ihe  e\TCTLQiiivi'\%«.Vn^  «n4  %  nunber  of 
senators  of  the  First  Empire.    In  these  va\xV^A  «k  xfcTMJc^iWVj  \j»A.  ^^fi  '•« 


9.   BIBLlOTHfeQUE  8TE.  GENEVlfeVE.  243 

e   aiprakened.    The  egress  from  the  vaults  if  on  the  W.  side,  near  the 
rinolpal  portal  (fee  optional). 

Tne  FaBth^n  was  the  headquarters  of  the  insargents  in  June,  1848, 
nd  vns  also  one  of  the  chief  strongholds  of  the  CommnBards  in  1871 ',  and 
B  1>otii  occasions  the  neighbouring  barricades  were  only  stormed  by  the 
roops  after  a  severe  struggle.  On  the  latter  occasion  the  insurgents  had 
laced  gunpowder  in  the  vaults  for  the  purpose  of  blowing  up  the  build- 
tf^,  but  were  dislodged  before  much  damage  had  been  done. 

Opposite  the  portal  of  the  Pantheon,  to  the  left,  are  the  Mairie 
f  the  6ih  ArrondUsement,  erected  in  1849,  and  the  bronze  Statue  of 
\  J.  Eouneau  (1712-1778) ,  by  P.  Berthet,  erected  in  1889.  On 
lie  right  are  the  old  buildings  of  the  Eeole  de  Droit  (p.  240),  begun 
y  Soufllotinl771. 

A  litUe  to  the  left,  in  the  Bue  d'Ulm  (Ko.  46),  is  the  EeO*  Normale 
ktp^rUure  (PI.  G,  19$  F),  founded  in  1794  for  the  training  of  teachers  for 
be  'lye^es*.  It  has  produced  many  famous  writers  and  savants.  The  build- 
ng  dates  from  1846.  There  are  now  about  130  students.  The  course  lasts 
\  years;  —  Not  far  off  is  the  Valde-Gr&ce  (p.  28S).  —  A  visit  to  the  Rue 
louffetard  and  other  parts  of  the  poor  quarter  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Panthdon 
aay  be  recommended  to  lovers  of  Old  Paris. 

The  Bihliothique  Ste.  Oeneviive,  a  long  building  on  the  N.  side 
\t  the  Place  du  Pantheon,  was  built  by  Labrouste  in  1843-50.  On  the 
irallB  are  inscribed  names  of  celebrated  authors  of  all  nations.  The 
soUection  of  books  was  founded  by  Cardinal  de  la  Rochefoucauld  in 
L624  in  the  Abbey  of  Ste.  Genevidye,  and  greatly  augmented  by  the 
ibrary  of  Cardinal  Le  Tellier,  archbishop  of  Rheims,  in  1710.  The 
ibrary  now  contains  2392  MSS.  (on  the  lower  floor),  of  the  11th 
■JO  the  17th  cent.,  some  of  them  illuminated  with  beautiful  mini- 
itmes;  numerous  'incunabula',  or  specimens  ofthe  earliest  printing 
[1457-1520);  and  about  25,000  engravings  and  curiosities,  including 
I  portrait  of  Queen  Mary  Stuart,  presented  by  herself  to  the  abbey. 
rhe  printed  books  number  200,000  vols.,  including  a  nearly  complete 
collection  of  Aldines,  or  books  by  the  celebrated  firm  of  Manutius  at 
Venice  fso  called  from  Aldus,  the  elder  member  of  the  firm ;  15th 
ind  16th  cent.),  and  Elzevirs,  or  books  printed  by  the  family  of  that 
name  at  Leyden  and  Amsterdam  (16th  and  17th  cent.) ;  and  also 
most  of  the  periodicals  published  in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries. 

The  vestibule  contains  busts  of  famous  French  authors ;  and  on  the 
staircase  is  one  of  Otting  ^  who  in  1469  established  at  the  Sorbonne  the 
drst  printing-press  used  in  Paris.  Above  the  landing  is  a  copy,  by  Balte^ 
jf  Baphael's  School  of  Athens  in  the  Vatican.  At  the  sides  are  allegorical 
medallions  (also  by  BiJze),  and  busts  of  La  Rochefoucauld  and  Labrouste. 
^t  the  entrance  to  the  hall  is  a-  fine  piece  of  Gobelins  tapestry,  Study  sur> 
>rised  by  night,  after  Baize. 

The  *Rbadino  Room  (Salle  dt  Lecture)  on  the  first  floor,  is  very  skil- 
fully constructed.  The  vaulting  is  borne  by  seventeen  iron  girders,  sup- 
>orted  in  the  centre  by  sixteen  slender  columns;  and  420  readers  can  be 
iccommodated.  It  is  open  to  the  public  daily,  except  in  the  vacation  (1st 
to  15th  Sept.),  from  11  to  4,  and  from  6  to  10  p.m. ;  in  the  evening  it  is 
'requented  almost  exclusively  by  students.  On  the  tables  to  the  right  are 
ftbout  300  periodicals  (nearly  all  French)  for  the  use  of  readers. 

At  the  N.  E.  corner  of  the  Place  du  Pantheon  rises  — 

♦St.  Etienne-dn-Mont  (PI.  R,  22^  V),  «.  la.tft-Q^^i'ejiV^  Osiwi^., 
:he  choir  of  which  was  begun  in  1517.  TlieinG0iigtv3LO\i%'SL«B«kK!A.\w'tfe 


246  10.   INSTITUT. 

The  Institut  de  France  embraces  five  different  academies :  the 
Acadimie  Fran^aise,  the  Acadimie  des  Inscriptiona  et  BeUes-Lettres, 
the  AcadSmie  dts  Seieneea,  the  Acadimie  des  Beaux-ArUj  and  the 
Acadimie  des  Sciences  Morales  et  Politiques,  Each  of  these  has  40 
ordinary  members,  except  the  Acadimie  des  Sciences,  which  has 
66;  and  all  except  the  Acadimie  Fran^aise  have  honorary,  cor- 
responding, and  foreign  members.  Each  ordinary  member  receives 
a  salary  of  1200  fr.  Vacancies  are  filled  by  the  yotes  of  the  members 
in  whose  departments  they  occnr ,  subject  to  the  approval  of 
government. 

The  history  of  these  ancient  corporations  is  not  very  penplcnous. 
The  oldest  is  the  Acadimie  Frangaise^  which  originated  about  1629  in  the 
meetings  of  a  gronp  of  learned  men  who  came  together  to  difcass  questions 
of  literary  and  scientific  interest.  It  received  stake  recognition  from 
Cardinal  Richelieu  in  1634-35.  Its  main  function  is  to  perfect  the  French 
language  by  the  revision  of  the  Dictionnaire  de  V Acadimie  ^  the  publica- 
tion of  a  Dictionnaire  Eistorique  de  la  Langue  Frangaiie^  and  so  forth. 
Ever  since  the  Regency  it  has  been  the  highest  ambition  of  every  French 
author  to  become  one  of  the  40  members  of  the  Academy  and  so  join  the 
^Immortals*. 

The  Acadimie  de*  Imcriptiom  et  Belles- Lettre*^  an  offshoot  (1663)  of  the 
Acaddmie  Fran9aise,  was  incorporated  in  1701  and  reorganized  in  1603. 
It  is  chiefly  devoted  to  the  study  of  ancient  and  Oriental  languages  and 
to  f  rchepological  research  (inscriptions,  coins,  monuments,  etc.).  It  publishes 
periodical  Mimoire*. 

The  Acadimie  des  Sciences,  foanded  in  1666,  cultivates  the  study  of 
mathematics  and  natural  science.  Its  publications  consist  of  Mimoire*  and 
Comptee-Rendite  des  Sianeee, 

The  Acadimie  dee  Beaux-Arts,  for  the  promotion  of  painting,  sculpture, 
architecture,  and  musical  composition,  originated  in  the  Academie  Eoy&Ie 
de  Peinture  et  de  Sculpture,  founded  by  Le  Brun  in  1648,  and  the  Acadimie 
Royale  d' Architecture,  founded  in  1671. 

At  the  Revolution  the  existing  Academies  were  all  suppressed  (1793) 
and  replaced  by  an  InstittU  National,  divided  into  three  classes.  The  first  of 
these  was  the  Acadimie  des  Sciences  Physiques  et  MatJUmatiques ;  the  second 
consisted  of  the  newly  founded  Acadimie  des  Sciences  Morale*  et  PoKHque*, 
for  the  study  of  philosophy,  history,  and  political  economy  ^  the  third 
comprised  the  Acadimie  de  la  Litt&rature  et  des  Beaux- Arts.  In  1805  the  second 
class  was  divided  into  two  sections,  and  the  class  of  Histoire  et  Littirature 
Ancienne  (corresponding  to  the  old  Academic  des  Inscriptions)  was  added. 

All  the  meetings  of  the  Academies  take  place  at  the  Palais  de  VlnsMut, 
and  are,  of  course,  extremely  interesting,  as  the  most  eminent  French 
savants  take  part  in  the  discussions.  The  annual  meetings  of  the  different 
sections  take  place  respectively  in  May,  July,  December,  October,  and 
April.  The  grand  meeting  of  the  five  departments  combined  is  held  on 
2oth  October.  Tickets  of  admission  to  this  and  to  the  other  annual  meet- 
ings are  issued  at  the  secretary's  office;  and  in  order  to  secure  a  place  it 
is  necessary  to  take  up  an  early  position  (in  person  or  by  deputy)  in  the 
long  'queue'  of  expectants. 

The  Institut  has  the  control  of  a  large  number  *of  money  -  prises, 
amounting  In  the  aggregate  to  an  annual  value  of  some  millions  of  francs. 
Thus  the  Academic  Franjaise  awards  the  Prix  Montyon  (19,000  fr.)  snd  other 
good  conduct  prizes  of  the  aggregate  value  of  60,000  fr.  Another  Montyon 
prize  of  the  same  amount  is  awarded  to  the  author  of  the  literary  work  con- 
sidered most  useful  to  the  cause  of  public  morality.  The  Frix  Oobert 
(10,000  fr.)  rewards  the  most  eloquent  work  on  the  history  of  France.  The 
Acadimie  des  Ipscripticnfl  awards  the  Prix  Oamier  (for  travelling;  15,000  fr.), 
the  J^'ix  1^/^17,000  fr.),  and  another  JfVix  Gohert,  The  Acadimie  des 
Sciences  awards  the  Frix  Briant  (1C0,010  ft.V    1\ift  k«.^^iuA<i  \«& ^^%\i<:.«a 


10.  h6tel  des  monnaies.  247 

Morales  ifl  entrasted  with  the  distribution  of  the  Ave  Prix  Nobel  (each 
worth  4S0fiC0  fr.)»  for  discoveries  in  physics,  chemistry,  and  physiology, 
for  *a  literary  work  of  an  ideal  tendency",  and  for  a  work  on  fraternity, 
the  abolition  of  militarism,  and  the  promotion  of  peace.  Other  prizes  are 
given  by  the  dilTerent  Academics  in  tarn. 

The  important  Aeadimie  de  Mideeine^  founded  in  18x0,  does  not  belong 
to  the  Institut.  It  distribates  a  number  of  prizes  at  its  annual  meeting 
about  the  middle  of  December;  and  since  1896  it  has  held  in  trust  the  Prix 
Audiffrtt  (24,0C0  fr.  per  amnum),  to  be  bestowed  on  the  discoverer  of  an 
efficacious  cure  for  tuberculosis.  This  Academy  has  its  present  seat  at 
Vo.  16  Bue  Bonaparte  (see  p.  252). 

In  the  small  sqaares  to  the  W.  and  E.  of  the  Institut  are  statues 
of  VoUaire  (1694-1778),  by  Cailltf,  and  Condorcet  (1743-1794),  by 
J.  Penin. 

The  cooits  of  the  Institut  are  used  as  a  public  thoroughfare. 
The  flnt  on  the  right  contains  the  entrance  to  the  Salle  dea  Siancts 
SoUnneUeaf  formerly  the  chapel,  situated  under  the  dome.  This 
saloon  and  the  vestibule  are  embellished  with  statues  of  authors, 
•eholan,  and  artists.  On  the  other  side  of  the  court  is  the  Biblio- 
ikhue  Mazarine  J  which  is  open  to  the  public  daily,  11  to  4  or 
5  0  clock,  except  on  Sundays  and  holidays  (vacation  from  15th  Sept. 
to  ist  Oct.).  It  contains  300,000  vols,  and  5800  MSS.,  80  models 
of  Cyclopean  monuments  from  Italy,  Greece,  and  Asia  Minor,  and 
seveial  ancient  works  of  art.  —  The  second  court  contains  the  rooms 
in  which  the  ordinary  meetings  are  held  and  the  library  of  the  In- 
stitut (no  admission). 

In  the  pavilion  next  the  statue  of  Voltaire  is  the  small  Musi*  d«  Mme, 
de  Ca8»  (not  open  to  the  public,  adm.  on  request  at  Ko.  1  Rue  de  Seine). 
The  Countess  de  Caen  (d.  lOTO)  bequeathed  the  greater  part  of  her  proper- 
ty to  the  Institut,  for  the  support  of  art-students  in  Rome,  on  the  condi- 
tion that  each  beneficiary  should  contribute  an  original  work  to  the  mus^^e, 
which  now  contains  a  considerable  number  of  paintings ,  sculptures,  and 
arehlteetural  designs. 

The  H6tel  des  Konnaies  (PI.  R,  20;  iV),  or  La  Monnaiej  the 
Parisian  Mint,  Is  a  large  building  to  the  left  of  the  Institut  and 
near  the  Pont-Neuf  (p.  223),  erected  in  1771-75  by  /.  D.  Antoine. 
The  facade ,  which  is  132  yds.  in  length ,  and  adorned  with  Ionic 
columns,  is  surmounted  by  allegorical  figures  by  Le  Comte^  Pigalle^ 
and  Mouehy. 

The  Monnale  contains  a  Musie  MorUtaire,  or  collection  of  coins, 
which  is  shown  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays,  12-3  o*clock,  to  visitors 
provided  with  an  order  from  the  Director.  This  order,  which  must 
be  applied  for  in  writing,  also  admits  to  the  workshops ;  it  is  avail- 
able for  4-5  persons. 

The  HussuM  is  reached  by  the  staircase  to  the  right  of  the  entrance. 

The  vestibule  contains  specimens  of  the  metals  used  in  coining.  —  A 
cabinet  to  the  right  of  the  vestibule  contains  a  glass-case  with  ancient 
coins,  and  presses  with  medals.  The  cabinet  to  the  left  contains  speci- 
mens of  postage-stamps. 

The  numerous  glass-cases  in  the  principal  saloon  contain  an  interest- 
ing collection  of  I^neh  Coins,  arranged  chronologically,  Cxom  ^Sife  t^t>\»».N. 
times  down  to  the  present  day,  those  of  LouU  XIV.  Mim^^MV^  ^VCVVv^^ 
heiag  most  numerous  i  a  coJiection  oi  Fordgn  Coins  ol  cnw^  t^wxiVti  v\ti- 


248  10.   ECOLE  DBS  BEAUX-ABTS. 

clading  a  Chinese  coin  of  B.C.  1700),  and  another  of  Medmli  of  Yarious 
kinds. 

Farther  on  is  a  passage  containing  Essaii  d^Argent^  and  a  room  with 
models  of  Instrument*  and  Furnaces  used  in  coining. 

The  following  room  contains  JHes^  and,  in  the  cabinets,  the  Medals 
of  the  Consulate  and  the  Empire.  The  wax  models  of  the  reliefs  on  the 
Venddme  Column  preserved  here,  and  the  small  model  of  the  column 
itself,  aflord  a  better  idea  of  the  details  than  the  originals.  A  bust  of 
Napoleon  I.  by  Oanova,  executed  in  1806,  and  a  cast  of  tilie  emperor*s  face 
taken  20  hours  after  death  are  also  shown.  The  models  of  former  weighing 
machines  and  a  good  collection  of  models  and  examples  of  contemporary 
engraving  may  be  mentioned. 

The  Ateliers,  with  their  steam-engines,  furnaces,  and  machinery,  are 
well  worth  visiting.  Those  only  are  shown  in  which  silver  pieces  and 
medals  are  struck.  Each  of  the  six  furnaces  in  which  the  silver  is  melted 
is  capable  of  containing  from  15  to  22V2  cwt.  of  metal,  worth  160,000  to 
240,000  francs.  The  machines  invented  by  H.  Thonnelier  are  highly  in- 
genious, sixty  pieces  of  money  being  struck  by  each  of  them  per  minute, 
while  the  whole  of  them  in  operation  at  once  are  capable  of  coining  no 
fewer  than  two  million  francs  per  day.  In  the  Monnaie  are  also  performed 
all  the  operations  of  assaying  and  stamping  the  gold  and  silver  wares  of 
the  jewellers.  The  ^Atelier  du  Monnayage^  contains  a  marble  figure  of  For- 
tune, by  Mouchy. 

Returning  to  the  Institnt,  we  soon  reach  the  Rue  Bonaparte,  the 
second  street  to  the  left  beyond  that  building.  No.  14  in  &ls  street 
is  the  — 

Ecole  des  Beaux -Arti  (PI.  R,  17,  20;  IV),  or  Palais  des 
Beaux- ArtSy  founded  in  1648,  for  the  teaching  of  painting,  sculpture, 
engraving,  gem-cutting,  and  architecture  (open  to  the  public  on 
Sun.,  12-4,  but  not  on  holidays ;  strangers  admitted  also  on  week- 
days, 10-4,  on  application  to  the  concierge,  who  provides  a  guide; 
fee).  The  pupils  who  obtain  the  first  prizes  ('grands  prix  de  Rome*) 
in  the  different  departments  are  sent  to  Rome  at  the  expense  of 
government  for  four  years.  The  works  they  send  home  are  ex- 
hibited here  annually  in  summer.  The  school  has  a  staff  of  40  pro- 
fessors, and  is  attended  by  upwards  of  1260  pupils  of  different 
nationalities.  It  contains  a  valuable  and  extensive  CoUeetion  of 
Copies  of  sculptures  and  paintings,  forming  an  admirable  supplement 
to  the  collections  of  the  Louvre. 

The  building,  erected  in  1820-38  by  Debret  and  his  successor 
Duban^  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Convent  des  Petits^Augusiins. 
In  1860-62  a  new  wing  facing  the  Qua!  Malaquais  was  added  by 
Duban,  and  the  old  H6tel  Ghimay,  adjoining  this  wing,  was  acquired 
in  1885  for  the  workshops.  At  the  entrance  are  colossal  busts  of 
Puget  and  Poussin. 

The  FiBST  GoxTBT  contains  many  handsome  fragments  of  French 
edifices ,  from  the  Gallo-Roman  period  down  to  the  16th  century. 
These  are  the  remains  of  the  Mus^e  des  Monuments  founded  here 
at  the  time  of  the  first  Revolution  by  the  painter  Alex.  Lenoir 
(d.  1839),  and  consisting  chiefly  of  tombstones  and  reliefs  rescued 
from  the  ndna  of  churches  and  chateaux.  In  1816  Louis  AVlU. 
dispersed  the  coiiection ,    and  ordered  mo^t  ol  ^i^  ^\k\QiQta  to  be 


ECOLC  »cs  BCAUX-ARTS 


1  ff4ndcycle. 

4  SoMi'  dn  Conseil  f  I^rtaxff  i 

6  7Vf ft*  d  "I'.iptvsstffn. 

C  Qixiiiils  I'rUi-  lie.  Scuiptju^ 

7  Cfmnds  J^i.-r-  dfi  T^tiitire 


a?  >^*\.v« 


**T   f^  ii/^irlmtf  p^u 


njS^^^^^^**' 


10.   ECOLE  DBS  BEAUX-ARTS.  249 

restored  to  the  churches  or  their  original  proprietors.  In  the  centre 
of  the  court  is  a  Corinthian  column  in  red  marble ,  surmounted  by  a 
bronze  statue  of  Plenty  (16th  cent.).  On  the  wall  to  the  left  is  a 
fresco  painted  on  lava  by  the  brothers  tfalte ,  after  the  work  at- 
tributed to  Lo  Spagna  formerly  in  the  Villa  Magliana  (p.  119\  To 
the  right  is  the  celebrated  and  beautiful  portal  of  the  Chateau  d  Anet, 
which  was  erected  for  Diana  of  Poitiers  by  Philibert  Delorme  and 
Jean  Ooujon  in  1548,  by  order  of  Henri  II.;  it  now  forms  the  en- 
trance to  the  old  abbey-chapel  .(see  below).  At  the  end  is  the  facade 
from  Gaillon  (p.  260). 

The  former  Chapel  contains  part  of  the  Music  des  Copies^  con- 
sisting of  reproductions  of  the  finest  sculptures  and  paintings  of 
the  Renaissance,  chiefly  of  the  Italian  school. 

In  a  kind  of  yestibule  are  exhibited  copies  of  the  frescoes  by  Oiotto 
in  the  chnrch  of  the  Madonna  deir  Arena  at  Padna,  of  a  Calvary  by  Fra 
AnffeUea,  of  the  battle  of  Heraclios  against  the  Persians  by  Piero  della 
Franceica,  and  of  the  battle  of  Gonstantine  by  OiuUo  Romano.  Also  a 
number  of  casts  and  other  copies  of  paintings.  —  Among  the  casts  we  ob- 
senre,  on  the  right,  that  of  the  pulpit  of  the  cathedral  of  Pisa,  by  Oiov. 
Fisano  (1302-11);  numerous  busts,  bas-reliefs,  and  medals;  candelabrum  of 
the  cathedral  of  Milan  (16th  cent.);  St.  George,  by  Donatello  (1386-1466), 
from  the  Bargello  at  Florence  \  monument  of  Fil.  Decio.  by  Stagio  Siagi 
(about  1530);  John  the  Baptist,  by  ^en.  da  Majano  (1442-97);  Children,  by 
Detiderio  da  Settignano.  A  small  side-chapel  contains  copies  of  the  Moses,  the 
Slaves,  the  monuments  of  Oiuliano  and  Lorenzo  de''  Medici,  the  Pietli,  Bac- 
chus, Chipid,  and  other  works  of  Michael  Angtlo^  and  of  Ohibei'tV$  doors  of  the 
baptistery  at  Florence.  In  the  centre:  Dying  Adonis  and  Virgin  and  Child.  — 
Principal  chapel:  David  as  the  conqueror  of  Goliath,  by  Donatello;  same 
subject,  by  Verrocchio;  allegorical  figure  of  Love,  by  Donatello;  alto-reliefs, 
by  Luca  della  Robbia ;  Relief  of  Jonah,  by  Lorenzetto^  and  others ;  Last  Judg- 
ment of  Michael  Angelo^  by  Sigalon ;  in  front  of  it,  cast  of  the  statue  of 
Gaston  de  Foix  from  his  tomb,  by  Batnbaja  (1515),  and  casts  of  statues  at 
St.  Denis  and  in  the  Louvre,  that  of  Ilaria  del  Oaretto  by  Jac.  della  Querela 
(1377-1438).  —  On  the  other  side.  Bas-reliefs,  by  Jean  Ooujon;  the  Graces, 
by  Qermain  A7on  (16th  cent..  Louvre);  heads  from  the  Well  of  Moses  and 
statuettes  from  the  tomb  of  the  dukes  of  Burgundy  (Dijon;  16th  cent.), 
by  Sluter;  statuettes  from  the  shrine  of  St.  Sebaldus,  at  Nuremberg,  by  P. 
Vieeher;  Apostle  from  the  Sainte-Chapelle  (13th  cent.) ;  statuesfrom  the  cathe- 
dral ofChartres  (13th  cent.);  female  bust  of  the  school  of  Strassburg  (15th 
cent.;  original  lost);  two  Madonnas  from  Notre-Dame  at  Paris;  numerous 
casts  of  ivory  carvings;  fonts  from  Hildesheim.  In  the  middle  are  nu- 
merous bas-reliefs:  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Niccolb  Pisano;  behind. 
Madonna  and  Child,  by  Deeiderio  da  SeWgnano^  and  St.  Cecilia  by  Donatello; 
at  the  side, Perseus,  by  ^«n.  Cellini;  behind.  Madonna  and  C!hild  with  St.  John 
and  other  saints,  by  Mlno  da  Fiesole;  reliquary  from  Aix-la-Chapelle ;  font 
from  Siena,  by  Qhiberti^  Donatello j  Michelozzo^  Oiac.  della  Quercia^  and 
Turini  di  Sano;  reliquary  of  St.  Zenobius,  by  Ohiberti;  Miracles  of  St.  An- 
thony, by  Donatello;  tomb  of  the  children  of  Charles  VIII.,  finished  by 
Jean  Juste.  —  Besides  the  copies  of  paintings  already  mentioned:  (right) 
P.  della  Franeesca^  Discovery  of  the  True  Cross ;  Melozzo  da  Forli,  Platina 
at  the  feet  of  Sixtus  IV.;  Fr.  Penni^  Clemency  and  Justice;  Raphael, 
Venus,  Juno,  and  Ceres;  Poetry,  Jupiter,  and  Cupid.  Left,  in  returning: 
Raphael,  Sibyls;  Mantegna,  St.  James  conducted  to  martyrdom;  Ohirlan- 
dcuoy  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  Sodoma,  Goths  destroying  the  monastery  of 
Monte  Cassino;  Raphael,  Sistine  Madonna. 

The  Sbcond  Cottbt  is  separated  from  the  first  by  part  ot  t\^^  t^.- 
^ade  of  the  chateau  of  Gaillon  (p.  40S^  -w^Ci^i  ^%.*  «t^«s.\.^\\wV^^^ 


250  10.   ECOLE  DES  BEAUX-ARTS. 

by  Guill.  Senault  and  Pierre  Fain  of  Rouen  for  Cardinal  d'Amboise, 
minister  of  Louis  XII.  and  one  of  the  chief  promoters  of  the  Renais- 
sance in  France.  It  is  in  a  mixed  Gothic  and  Renaissance  style, 
affording  a  good  idea  of  the  character  of  the  chflteau,  which  was 
destroyed  during  the  Revolution.  Beyond  it  are  other  fragments  of 
French  architecture  and  sculpture,  statues  copied  from  antiques, 
and  a  fine  stone  basin,  13  ft.  in  diameter,  adorned  with  heads  of 
gods  or  heroes,  animals,  and  the  four  elements,  a  work  of  the  close 
of  the  12th  cent.,  brought  from  the  abbey  of  St.  Denis. 

The  principal  *Fa9adb,  which  flanks  this  court  on  the  W.,  de- 
signed by  Duhariy  and  completed  in  1838,  is  a  good  example  of 
modern  French  architecture.  It  is  adorned  with  two  series  of  ar- 
cades, one  above  the  other,  with  Corinthian  semi-columns  and  pilas- 
ters, and  is  crowned  with  an  attic. 

The  Yestibulb  contains  copies  of  ancient  Pompeian  and  other 
paintings  and  casts  of  sculptures  of  the  Parthenon  and  the  temple 
of  Minerva  in  iEgina,  the  originals  of  which  are  in  London  and 
Munich,  and  of  the  Children  of  Niobe,  at  Florence.  At  the  back, 
to  the  left,  an  antique  statue,  the  Athena  Medici,  from  the  Villa 
Medici,  a  good  Roman  copy  of  a  Greek  work  from  the  time  of  Phidias. 
—  We  next  enter  an  Innbb  Coubt,  roofed  with  glass,  containing 
numerous  casts  from  famous  antiques  at  Rome  and  elsewhere :  to  the 
right,  the  Greek  gallery ;  to  the  left,  the  Roman  gallery  (inscriptions). 
At  the  ends  are  restored  columns  from  the  Parthenon,  with  the 
entablature,  and  from  the  temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux  at  Rome  (er- 
roneously known  as  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Stator).  —  In  the  corridor 
opposite  the  entrance  to  the  inner  court  is  the  Monument  ofDuban^ 
the  architect  (p.  248),  by  Guillaume. 

Behind  is  the  Amphitheatbb,  adorned  with  the  celebrated  *Hi'- 
micyle  of  Paul  Delaroche  (d.  1856),  an  encaustic  painting  which 
represents  distinguished  artists  of  all  ages  and  nations,  and  contains 
in  all  75  figures  (18  ft.  in  height). 

On  a  lofty  throne  in  tbe  centre  are  tbe  great  Greek  masters,  Phidias 
(the  sculptor),  Jctinus  (the  architect  of  the  Parthenon),  and  Apellet  (tbe 
painter).  Four  female  ilgnres  in  front  represent  (Left)  Greek,  Gothic,  and 
(right)  Romanesque,  and  Renaissance  art.  To  the  right,  beginning  from  the 
end,  are  the  most  famous  painters  and  (under  the  columns)  architects,  and 
the  chief  masters  of  the  French  school.  On  the  left  are  sculptors  and 
landscape-painters  and  (towards  the  centre)  colourists  of  every  school.  — 
The  Walters  Gallery  at  Baltimore  contains  a  reduced  replica  of  this  work 
(see  Baedeker's  United  States). 

Opposite  the  H^micycle  is  a  large  painting  by  Ingres^  represent- 
ing Romulus  victorious  over  Acron,  King  of  the  Sabines.  —  In  an 
adjoining  room,  to  the  left  as  we  quit  the  Amphitheatre,  are  casts  of 
the  sculptures  of  the  temples  of  Zeus  at  Olympia  and  Nike  Apteros  at 
Athens,  of  the  statue  of  Mausolus  (now  in  London),  etc. 

Next  follow  tk  corridor  and  a  gallery,  with  casts  of  Greek  soulp- 
tures.    Tbe  corresponding  corridor  an^  gaWwu  wv  t^^  otjiei  side, 


10.    ECOLE  DES  BEAUX-ARTS.  251 

also  containing  casts,  are  not  open  to  the  public.  —  A  staircase,  to 
the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the  inner  court,  ascends  to  the  — 

First  Floor.  On  the  S.  and  N.  sides  of  the  glass-roofed  court 
are  galleries  adorned  with  fifty-two  copies  from  Raphael's  logge  in 
the  Vatican,  by  the  brothers  Bcdze. 

1st  Boom,  or  Salle  du  Conseil :  Portraits;  busts;  copies  of  three  scenes 
from  the  life  of  St.  Ursula,  by  Carpaccio  (others  in  the  under-mentioned 
passage)^  eight  torch-holders  in  wood  (time  of  Louis  XIV.);  clock  in  the 
style  of  Boule.  —  The  following  passage  contains  small  copies,  and  beyond 
it  is  a  gallery  a£fording  a  good  survey  of  the  H^micycle  of  P.  Delaroche.  — 
2ad  Room.  Copies  of  paintings,  beginning  to  the  left:  Van  Dyck,  Children 
of  Charles  I.  &  Rembrandt.  Soldier  of  fortune ;  Fe/arguer,  Surrender  of  Breda ; 
Oorr%ggio^  Madonna  ana  Child  with  Mary  Magdalen  and  St.  Jerome;  P. 
Veronem,  Venice  receiving  Justice  and  Peace;  Van  der  ffeUt^  Banquet  of 
Oiyie  Guards;  P.  Veronese,  Martyrdom  of  St.  George;  Poutsin,  Death  of 
Germanicus;  Velazquez^  Olivarez;  Turner,  Building  of  Carthage;  P.  Veronese^ 
Triumph  of  Venus  (on  the  ceiling).    Also  drawings,   engravings,  photo- 

Sraphs,  and  busts.  Among  the  last  (named  from  left  to  right)  are  Dubois 
y  Falguidre,  G^rSme  by  Carpeaux,  Lenepveu  by  Injalbert,  Gamier  by 
Carpeauz,  and  Henner  by  Dubois.  —  We  return  to  the  entrance  by  the 
K.  gallery. 

On  the  left  side  is  the  Library ,  open  for  students  only.  Per- 
mission to  use  lit  may  be  obtained  by  written  application  to  the 
Director  of  the  Ecole. 

The  Vestibule  des  Ecoles,  beside  the  chapel,  contains  a  Monu- 
ment to  Ingres^  with  his  bust  in  bronze,  and  medallions  of  Flandrin 
and  Simart  by  Guiilaume.   We  next  enter  the  — 

CouR  DU  MuRiER,  with  galleries  containing  sculptures  executed 
at  Rome  by  former  pupils  and  casts  of  ancient  bas-reliefs.  At  the 
end  is  the  Monument  of  Henri  Regnault\  the  painter ,  and  other 
pupils  killed  during  the  defence  of  Paris  in  1870-71 ;  between  the 
columns  bearing  the  names  are  a  bust  of  Regnault  and  a  statue  of 
Youth  offering  him  an  olive-branch,  by  Chapu,  On  the  wall  next 
to  the  Vestibule  des  Ecoles :  Galatea  of  Raphaely  copied  on  porcelain 
by  Baize.  Below ,  and  in  the  corridors  on  the  same  side ,  are  casts 
from  the  terracotta  frieze  of  the  Seven  Works  of  Mercy,  from  the 
Ospedale  del  Ceppo  at  Pistoja ,  by  Andrea  and  Luca  delta  Robbia 
(15th  cent.). 

Opposite  this  wall  is  another  vestibule  containing  several  copies, 
next  to  which  is  the  Salle  db  Mblfomi^ne,  occupied  with  the 
remainder  of  the  Mus^e  des  Copies  and  used  for  the  exhibition  of 
competitive  works.  On  Sun.  and  on  the  occasion  of  such  exhibitions 
this  room  may  also  be  entered  from  the  Quai  Malaquais  (PI.  10).  The 
rooms  on  the  first  floor  on  this  side  are  also  used  for  exhibitions. 

The  vestibule  next  the  Cour  du  Mirier  contains  copies  of  six  frescoes 
by  OioUo  in  Santa  Maria  deir  Arena  at  Padua;  also,  Assembly  of  the  Gods 
and  other  paintings,  after  Raphael;  and  Descents  from  the  Cross,  after 
Andrea  del  Sarto  and  Qarofalo. 

Principal  copies  (from  right  to  the  left) :  Velazquez^  Don  Fernando  and 
Philip  IV.;  Filippo  Lippi,  Madonna;  CHov.  Bellini,  Virgin  «.nd  68A.wtA\  li\c\vQA\ 
Anffelo  (above),   Sibyls  and  Prophets;    P.  yieronete  Cofe\<yw"^^  k^ot^NNsya.  ^"^ 
the    Virgin;    Correggio,    Madonna    and   Child  wU\i  "KL«r3   Uajf^^^^  ««^^ 


252  10.   ST.  GERMAIN-DES-PRfiS. 

St.' Jerome;  Titian,  Patron  saints  of  Yeniee,  Death  of  St.  Peter  the  Do> 
minican;  Palma  FeccAto,  St.  Barbara;  TiUan,  Heavenly  and  Earthly  love, 
Assumption;  Raphael^  Jurisprudence;  A.  del  Sarto,  Last  Snpper  (fresco)-, 
Peruffino^  Marriage  of  the  Virgin ;  Veroeehioy  Baptism  of  Christ ;  Masaeeio 
or  Filippino  Lippi,  Miracle  of  St.  Peter;  RapJUiel,  Attila  expelled  from 
Rome;  Ben.  Oottoli^  Teaching  of  St.  Augustine;  RaphaeU  *La  Belle  Jar- 
diniere'; fHl.Lippi,  Vision  of  St.  Bernard;  Raphael^  YenuB,  Ceres,  and  Juno; 
Perugino,  Group  from  the  Baptism  of  Christ:  Raphwl^  Entombment, 
Psyche  fetching  water  from  the  Styx;  Holbein,  His  wife  and  children ;  Rem- 
hrandty  Lesson  in  anatomy;  Raphael,  *Di8puta\  Marriage  of  the  Virgin; 
Botticelli,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  Strength;  Mantegna,  Virgin,  angels,  and 
saints;  Raphael,  School  of  Athens;  Sodoma^  Swoon  of  St.  Catharine;  Masaedo, 
St.  Paul  in  the  prison  of  St.  Peter ;  Raphael,  Leo  X. ;  Masaeeio,  Liberation 
of  St.  Peter.  —  The  small  room  at  the  end,  to  the  left  (PI.  6).  contains  prize- 
works  in  painting  and  sculpture.  —  Id  the  next  room  (PI.  7)  are  prize- 
works  in  sculpture  and  engraving.  —  Third  Boom  (PI.  8):  prize-works  in 
painting  since  the  end  of  the  i7th  century.  —  Vestibule  next  the  Quai  Mala- 
quais :  Copies  of  Michael  Angelo^t  frescoes  in  the  Sistine  Chapel  at  Rome ; 
casts  from  the  antique  and  reproductions  in  marble. 

The  new  Acadimk  de  Midecine  (p.  247),  by  Rochet,  is  being 
erected  to  the  S.  of  the  Eoole  des  Beaux-Arts. 


II.  FROM  THE  EOOLE  DES  BEATJX-ABTS  TO  THE  LTJXEMBOTJBG. 
St.  Oermain-des-Pris.  St.  Sulpice. 
The  Rue  Bonaparte  leads  in  3  min.  from  the  Ecole  des  Beaux- 
Arts  to  St.  Germain-des-Fr^B  (PI.  R,  19;  /V),  one  of  the  most 
ancient  churches  in  Paris.  It  belonged  to  the  powerful  abbey  of 
St.  Germain,  founded  in  542  or  543  by  King  Ghildebert,  the  abbots 
of  which  were  sometimes  cardinals  and  even  kings ,  as  in  the  case 
of  Hugh  Capet  and  Casimir  V.  of  Poland.  The  abbey  was  originally 
dedicated  to  St.  Vincent,  but  afterwards  to  St.  Germain,  a  bishop 
of  Paris,  and  was  once  surrounded  by  meadows,  including  the  famous 
* Pri-avx-Clerca,  The  nave  is  a  relic  of  an  edifice  of  the  end  of  the 
11th  century.  The  choir,  consecrated  in  1163,  was  afterwards 
altered,  particularly  in  the  windows,  which  show  a  tendency  to  Gothic. 
During  the  Revolution  the  church  was  used  as  a  saltpetre-manu- 
factory, and  fell  into  a  very  dilapidated  condition,  but  it  was  restored 
in  1824-36. 

The  Intbbiob  was  redecorated  in  1862-61  with  gilding  and  polychrom- 
atic paintings,  and  with  admirable  ^Mural  Paintings,  by  Hippolyte  Flandrin 
(d.  1864)  and  other  masters  under  his  superintendence.  There  are  ten 
on  each  side  of  the  Kavb,  placed  in  pairs  over  the  arches,  representing 
parallel  scenes  from  the  Old  and  New  Testament.  On  the  left  side  of 
the  entrance:  the  Burning  Bush  and  the  Annunciation;  the  Promise  of 
a  Redeemer  and  the  Nativity ;  the  Prophecy  of  Balaam  and  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi;  the  Passage  of  the  Red  Sea  and  the  Baptism  of  Christ; 
Melchieedek's  offering  of  bread  and  wine  to  Abraham  and  the  Institution 
of  the  Eucharist.  —  On  the  other  side ,  returning  towards  the  entrance : 
the  Sale  of  Joseph  and  the  Betrayal  of  Christ;  the  Offering  of  Isaac  and 
the  Death  of  Christ ;  Jonah  issuing  from  the  whale's  belly  and  the  Resur- 
rection; the  Scattering  of  the  nations  and  the  Dispersal  of  the  Apostles  ( 
the  Ascension  and  Preparations  for  the  Last  Judgment  (the  last  executed 
b^  Hippolyte*B  brother  Paul). 

The  Choir  is  embellished  with  two  large  paintings  on  a  golden  ground, 
Ifegua  by  M,  Flandrin :  on  the  left  the  Entry  ot  C^xVal  ViA<)  ^«nsA«\«i&.\  on 


10.  INSTITUT.  245 

A  little  lower  down,  to  the  right  of  the  Rue  Monge,  is  the  Eg- 
Use  8t.  Nieolas-dU'Chardonnety  built  in  1656-1709.  It  contains 
paintings  by  Desgoffe  and  Caret,  and  the  monuments  of  J.  Bignon 
(d.  1656),  by  Girardon,  and  of  the  painter  Le  Brun  (d.  1690)  and 
Ms  mother,  by  Ooyzevox  and  Tuby.  Beyond  this  are  the  Boul.  St. 
Qeimain  and  the  Place  Maubert,  where  a  bronze  statue,  by  Guilbert, 
was  erected  in  1889  to  Etienne  Dolet,  a  printer  burned  in  1546,  in 
the  xeign  of  Francis  I.,  for  'impiety  and  atheism'.  The  reliefs  re- 
present Paris  restoring  Freedom  of  Thought,  and  the  Arrest  and  Exe- 
cution of  Dolet.  The  inscription  on  one  side  reads :  'non  Dolet  ipse 
dolet,  sed  pia  turba  dolet'. 

The  Bue  Lagrange  leads  straight  on  to  Notre-Dame  (p.  224),  passing 
behind  St.  Jolien-le-Pauvre  (p.  229).  The  Bonl.  St.  Germain  leads,  on  the 
left,  to  the  Boul.  St.  Michel,  and,  on  the  right,  to  the  quays  near  the  Halle 
anx  Vins  (p.  267). 

10.  ftnarters  of  St.  Germain  and  the  Luxembourg. 

I.  INSTITUT.    HOTEL  DES  MONNAIES.    EOOLE  DES  BEATJX-ABTS. 

In  this  route,  which  includes  several  museums,  the  visitor  should  begin 
with  the  collections  that  are  opened  at  the  earliest  hour.  Tuesday  and 
Friday  are  the  only  days  on  which  all  the  museums  are  open;  but  tlie 
collection  at  the  Ecole  des  Beaux- Arts  is  public  only  on  Sunday.  The 
museum  at  the  Mint  is  of  little  interest  except  to  specialists.  —  Luncheon 
may  be  taken  near  the  Luxembourg  (pp.  14,  16). 

The  Pont  des  Arts  (PI.  R,  20 ;  /V),  between  the  Old  Louvre  and 
the  Institut,  an  iron  bridge  for  foot-passengers  only,  constructed  in 
1802-4,  deriyes  its  name  from  the  *Palais  des  Arts',  as  the  Louvre 
was  once  called.  It  commands  a  fine  view  both  up  and  down  th« 
river. 

The  Palais  do  rinstitut  (PI.  R,  20;  /F),  a  somewhat  clumsy 
edifice,  covered  with  a  dome,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Seine,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Pont  des  Arts,  and  opposite  the  Louvre. 
The  crescent-shaped  facade  is  flanked  with  wings  adorned  with 
arcades.  In  front  of  the  Corinthian  portico  rises  a  Statue  of  the 
RepubliCy  by  Soitoux  (1848  or  1850).  The  institution  was  originally 
founded  by  Cardinal  M azarin  for  tne  education  of  youths  from  the 
newly-acquired  provinces  of  Roussillon,  Pignerol,  Flanders,  and 
Alsace,  and  was  named  the  College  Mataririy  but  was  popularly 
known  as  the  Collhge  des  Quatre  Nations.  The  building  was  erected 
in  the  latter  half  of  the  17th  cent.,  on  the  site  of  the  Hdtel  de 
Nesle,  to  which^  according  to  tradition,  Margaret  of  Burgundy,  wife  of 
Louis  X.,  used  to  cause  young  strangers  to  be  brought  to  minister  to 
her  pleasures,  and  afterwards  to  be  assassinated  and  thrown  into 
the  Seine.  During  the  Revolution  it  was  used  as  a  prison,  but  in 
1795  it  was  ceded  by  the  Convention  to  the  AcadSnUes,  or  societies 
of  savants,  who  had  hitherto  met  in  the  Louvre.  Its  name  was  then 
changed  to  the  Palais  de  Tlnstitnt,  and  it  was  ivat  %.%%^\^  ^tss^^-^^^ 
as  a  sehool. 


254  10.    ST.  SULPICB. 

The  Intebiob  consists  of  nave,  aisles,  transept,  and  eighteen  lateral 
chapels.  The  spherical  vanlting  is  borne  by  Corinthian  pillars.  Adjoin- 
ing the  second  pillar  are  b^nitiers  consisting  of  two  enormous  shells  (fH- 
dachna  gigat)y  presented  to  Francis  I.  by  the  Bepublic  of  Venice,  resting 
un  rock-work  of  marble  designed  by  PigalU.  The  chapels  contain  in- 
teresting frescoes. 

Right  Aislb.  *lst  Chapel:  Jacob  wrestling  with  the  Angel;  Heliodo- 
ros  expelled  from  the  Temple;  on  the  ceiling,  St.  Michael;  all  by  Bugbne 
Delacroix  (1861).  —  *2nd  Chapel:  Religion  solacing  a  dying  man;  Efficacy 
of  prayer  for  the  dead ;  by  Heim,  —  8rd  Chapel :  St.  Boch  praying  for  the 
plague-stricken;  Death  of  the  saint  in  the  prison  of  Montpellier ;  by  Abel 
de  Pujol  (1821).  —  4th  Chapel:  Scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Maurice,  by 
Vinchon  (1822).  —  5th  Chapel:  Marble  monument  of  the  cur^  Languet 
(d.  1870),  by  Slodtz. 

Left  Aisle.  Ist  CJhapel:  St.  Francois  Xavier  resuscitating  a  dead 
man,  and  Miraculous  cure  of  sick  persons  at  the  burial  of  the  saint,  by 
La/on  (1859).  —  2nd  Chapel :  St.  l^an^ois  de  Sales  preaching  in  Savoy, 
and  Ste.  Chantal  receiving  from  the  saint  the  constitution  of  a  new  order 
of  nuns  CSoeurs  de  la  Visitation'),  by  Hetse  (1860).  —  3rd  Chapel:  St.  Paul's 
Conversion,  and  St.  Paul  on  the  Areopagus,  by  Drolling (iOSO).  —  4th  Chapel: 
St.  Vincent  de  Paul  recommending  foundlings  to  the  care  of  sisters  of 
charity,  and  the  saint  at  the  death-bed  of  Louis  xm.,  by  Guilltmct  (1825). 

Tbanbbft.  Left  arm :  Betrayal  by  Judas,  and  the  Crucifixion.  Bight 
arm :  Resurrection  and  Ascension,  and  Prophets.  These  are  all  bv  Signol 
(1874-76).  On  the  pavement  here  a  Meridian  Idne  was  drawn  in  1743.  It  is 
prolonged  to  an  obelisk  of  white  marble  which  indicates  the  direction  of 
due  K.,  while  towards  the  S.  it  corresponds  with  a  closed  window,  from 
a  small  aperture  in  which  a  ray  of  the  sun  falls  at  noon  on  the  vertical 
line  of  the  obelisk. 

Choib  Chapblb,  N.  or  left  side.  1st:  Martyrdom  and  Triumph  of  St 
John  the  Evangelist,  by  Olaitt  (1859).  —  2nd:  San  Carlo  Borromeo  at  a 
procession  during  the  plague  at  Milan ,  and  The  saint  administering  the 
last  sacraments  to  Pius  IV.,  his  uncle,  by  Pichon  (1867).  —  8rd:  St.  Joseph, 
by  Ch.  LandeUe,  —  4th :  St.  Louis,  King  of  France,  earryine  a  dying  man 
during  the  plague,  and  The  King  administering  justice  under  the  oak  of 
Vincennes ,  by  Matout  (1870).  —  Above  the  side-entrance :  Death  of  the 
Virgin,  by  Bin  (1874). 

Choib  Chapels,  S.  or  right  side.  1st:  St.  Denis  preaching  to  the 
heathen  Bomans ,  and  Condemnation  of  the  saint,  by  Joblhi-Duwul  (1869). 
—  2nd :  St.  Martin  dividing  his  doak  with  a  beggar ,  and  The  saint 
resuscitating  a  dead  man,  by  Mottet  (1863).  —  Srd:  Ste.  Oenevi&ve  suc- 
couring Troyes  (Champagne) .  and  Miracles  wrought  by  her  relics  during 
a  procession,  by  Timbal  (1864).  —  4th :  Nativity  of  the  Virgin ,  and  Her 
presentation  in  the  Temple,  by  Lenepvtu  (1864).  —  Above  the  side-entrance: 
Assumption,  by  Bin  (1874). 

The  statue  of  the  Virgin  on  clouds  in  a  recess  in  the  chapel  behind  the 
high-altar,  by  Ptijou  (d.  1809),  is  lighted  from  above.  The  fresco  of  the  As- 
sumption on  the  dome  of  this  chapel  is  by  Lemoint  (d.  1737).  The  statues 
in  the  choir  are  by  Bouehardon.  —  The  pulpit  is  supported  solely  by  the 
steps  which  ascend  to  it.  —  The  organ-case  was  designed  by  Chalgrin, 
with  statues  by  Clodion,  The  fine  organ,  originally  built  by  Cliquot,  was 
reconstructed  by  Cavaill^-Coll.  The  organist  is  M.  Widor,  and  the  choir 
has  a  reputation  for  its  ^plain  song\ 

The  Plaob  St.  Sulpicb  in  front  of  the  church  is  adorned  with  the 
handsome  Fontaine  8t,  Sulpice ,  designed  by  Viseonti ,  and  elected 
in  1847.  The  fountain  consists  of -three  concentric  basins ,  one 
above  the  other ,  and  is  embellished  with  statues  of  the  four  most 
celebrated  French  preachers  of  the  17th  and  18th  cent. :  BoMnet, 
F^nelony  MassilloDf  and  Fl^chier.  The  long  building  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  Place  is  the  Siminairt  de  St.  Sulpice,  ioi  VXift  «^Txc»,ti<ni  of 


10,  PALAIS  DU  LUXEMBOURG.  255 

priests.    On  the  W.  is  the  Mairie  of  the  6th  Arrondissemenl ;  the 
ceiling-painting  in  the  Salle  des  FItes  is  by  H.  L^yy. 

The  Rue  F^ion,  to  the  left  of  this  building,  leads  straight  to 
the  Mxuie  du  Luxembourg  (p.  266).  Or  we  may  follow  the  Rue 
St.  Sulpice,  to  the  left  of  the  church,  and  take  the  Rue  de  Tournon, 
the  second  cross-street  to  the  right,  which  ascends  to  the  Palais  du 
Luxembourg. 

ni.  PALACE  aALLEBY,  AND  GABSEN  OF  THE  LTTXEHBOTJBG. 
1.  Palais  dn  Lnzembourg. 

The  Palaii  du  Luxembourg  (PI.  R,  19;  /F),  now  the  seat  of 
the  French  Senate^  was  elected  in  1615-20  for  Marie  de  MSdiciSf 
widow  of  Henri lY.,  by  Salomon  Debrosse,  one  of  the  ablest  French 
architects  of  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century.  •  It  occupies  the 
site  of  the  old  H6tel  de  Luxembourg,  a  mansion  from  which  it 
derives  its  name.  In  the  employment  of  rustics  pilasters  and  in 
the  treatment  of  the  court,  it  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  Pitti 
Palace  at  Florence,  Marie^s  ancestral  home ,  but  at  the  same  time 
it  pieseryes  an  unmistakably  French  character,  especially  in  the 
comer-pavilions  with  their  lofty  roofs.  The  principal  facade,  nearly 
100  yds.  long,  which  notwithstanding  many  restorations  still  reveals 
the  original  design,  looks  towards  the  Rue  Yaugirard  on  the  N.  side, 
opposite  the  Rue  de  Tournon.  Important  alterations,  the  chief  of 
which  was  the  addition  of  the  columns  in  the  court,  were  made  by 
Chalgrin  in  1804,  by  order  of  Napoleon  I.  The  facade  towards  the 
garden,  formerly  similar  to  the  principal  front,  was  restored  under 
Louis  Philippe  in  1831-34  by  A»  de  Oisora,  who  adhered  as  far 
as  possible  to  the  style  of  the  original  building.  —  During  the  First 
Empire  the  palace  was  occupied  by  the  senate,  and  styled  Palais 
du  Sinat-Conservateur.  After  the  Restoration,  and  under  Louis 
Philippe,  the  Chamber  of  Peers  met  here.  From  1852  to  1870  it 
was  named  Pcdais  du  Sinat,  that  body  having  again  sat  here  during 
the  Second  Empire.  It  was  next  occupied  by  the  offices  of  the  Pr^fet 
de  la  Seine,  after  the  destruction  of  the  H6tel  de  Yille  in  1871 ;  but 
in  1879 ,  on  the  return  of  the  Chambers  to  Paris,  the  senate  re- 
sumed its  old  quarters  here. 

The  Intbbiob  Centrance  in  the  Rue  de  Yaugirard)  is  shown  only  when 
the  senate  is  not  sitting.  We  cross  the  court  to  the  foot  of  the  staircase 
in  the  corner  to  the  left,  where  one  of  the  custodians  is  to  be  found 
(gratuity).  —  Visitors  are  admitted  during  the  sittings  of  the  senate  by 
special  tickets  (comp.  p.  56). 

First  Floor.  The  dome  of  the  Libbabt  is  adorned  with  fine  paintings 
by  Eugine  Delacroix ^  representing  the  infernal  regions  according  to  Dante 
(strong  light  necessary).  —  Salle  des  Stances.  The  colonnade  behind  the 
president's  seat  is  adorned  with  statues  of  Turgot  (d.  1781).  d'Aguesseau 
(d.  1751),  I'Hopital  (d.  1573),  Colbert  (d.  1683),  Mol^  (d.  1856),  Malesherbes 
(d.  1794),  and  Portalis  (d.  1855).  On  each  side  of  the  ^\fe9,\^^\!i'C^  ^'t^x.K^ 
a  painting  by  Blondel:  the  Peers  offering  the  ctowhl  \o  Y\v\\\\»  \v^.\.v.w^^  ^\n^ 
the  Estates  of  Touts  conferring  on  Louis  Xll.  V\ife  VvW^  Qi^\^>i3^vix  ^^  Vs^^ 


256  10.    PALAIS  DU  LUXEMBOUKu. 

people'.  At  the  beginning  of  the  larger  semicircle  is  a  statue  of  Charle^ 
magne,  by  Eiex^  and  one  of  St.  Louis,  by  Dumont.  —  Bovbttb  (refreahmentr 
room).  Paintings:  Caminade^  The  Chancellor  de  PHopital  retoming  the 
seals  to  Charles  IX.-,  Vinchon,  Achille  de  Harlay  rejecting  the  proposals  of 
the  Due  de  Guise;  Champmartin^  Charlemagne;  H.  f <a»<fr6» ,  St.  Louis; 
Decaisne,  Allegorical  ceiling-paintings.  —  The  Salle  dbs  Pas-Pjskdos  was 
litted  up  as  a  throne-room  by  Napoleon  III.  in  1856  and  handsomely  deco- 
rated in  the  Louis  XIV.  style.  On  the  vaulting,  in  the  centre,  the  Apo- 
theosis of  Napoleon  I.  by  Alaux;  at  the  sides,  Peace  and  War,  by  Btwm; 
at  the  ends,  the  Apotheosis  of  the  kings  of  France,  by  Lehmann,  Handsome 
chimney-piece  of  1880. 

In  the  E.  wing  is  the  Gbandb  Galebie,  for  which  Rubens  painted  his 
series  of  scenes  from  the  life  of  Marie  de  H^dicis  0[>.  126).  The  ceiling  is 
adorned  with  an  Aurora  by  Collet  (18th  cent.)  and  the  Months  by  Jordaen$. 

Descending  to  the  groundfloor,  we  visit,  in  the  W.  part  of  the  palace, 
the  small  Chambrb  de  Mabib  de  M^dicis,  adorned  with  paintings  by  Bu- 
bens's  pupils,  Van  Thulden^  Van  Huden^  and  Van  Hoeck.  The  Apotheosis 
of  the  queen  on  the  ceiling  is  attributed  to  Van  Hoeck.  —  The  Chapbl, 
restored  in  1842,  is  richly  decorated  with  paintings  by  Oigoux^  Alel  de  Pujols 
Jaley,  and  others. 

To  the  W.  of  the  palace  is  a  wing  kuown  as  the  PetU-Luxem- 
bourg,  now  the  residence  of  the  president  of  the  senate.  It  also 
was  probahly  built  for  Marie  de  M^dicis.  Her  chapel,  which  is  seen 
from  the  Rue  Yaugirard,  was  built  in  1622-31  and  belonged  originally 
to  to  the  nunnery  of  the  Filles  du  Galvaire.  Since  1893  it  has  been 
used  by  the  Maronite  community. 

S.  Musie  du  Loxembonrg. 
The  Lnxembourg  Gallery  is  open  daily,  ezeept  Mondays  and  the  chief 
holidays  (p.  66),  10-4,  and  in  summer  9-6  o^cloek ;  on  Sundays  and  ordinary 
holidays  104  only.  It  is  usually  closed  for  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  about 
November  for  cleaning  and  re-arrangement.  The  entrance  is  nearly  oppo* 
site  the  Bue  F^rou. 

The  *Xiisie  du  Luzembourg  (PI.  R,  19;  IV),  a  collection  of 
Works  of  Contemporary  ArtUtSy  consisting  chiefly  of  paintings  and 
sculptures,  occupies  the  former  Orangery,  to  the  W.  of  the  Petit- 
Luxembourg,  on  the  left  side  of  the  Rue  Yaugirard.  The  works  ex- 
hibited at  the  Luxembourg  are  generally  transferred  to  the  Louyre, 
or  sent  to  provincial  galleries,  about  ten  years  after  the  death  of  the 
artists,  so  that  a  comprehensive  survey  of  modem  French  art  cannot 
be  obtained  in  one  place.  This  rule,  however ,  is  not  very  strictly 
observed. 

At  the  foot  of  the  staircase,  to  the  right,  Orpheus  charming  Cer- 
berus to  sleep,  to  the  left,  Judith,  bronzes  by  Peinte  and  Ai%eUn, 
At  the  sides,  to  the  right,  Hagar  and  Ishmael,  by  Sicard,  and  a  statue 
of  Bailly,  by  Aubi;  to  the  left,  Hero  and  Leander,  by  Oaaq,  Yulture 
on  the  the  head  of  a  sphinx,  by  Cazn,  and  Dogs,  by  Frimiet  and 
Lamt.  In  the  pediment,  Fame  distributing  crowns  and  palm- 
branches  to  the  plastic  arts,  by  Crauk, 

The  arrangement  of  the  works  is  so  often  changed  that  to  prevent 

confuBion  we  ahaXi  enumerate  the  most  Important  of  them  in  th( 

alphabeticAl  order  of  the  names  of  the  ai^ftU,  ^«.\.\>^\x^  %i«Q  th 


10.    MUSfiE  DU  LUXEMBOURG. 


257 


order  in  whioh  they  aie  arranged  in  the  catalogue  (75  e. ;  illustrated 
4^2  ^'0*  Keeper,  Af.  Lionet  Bintdite.  Each  work  hears  the  name 
of  the  artist. 

SOULFTUBBS. 

427.  Atseltn,  Hagar  and  Ishmael.  —  429.  Allar^  Death  of  Al- 
eestis.  —  1063.  AUouard^  Farfrom  the  world. 

Barrios  (E.)^  431.  Young  girl  of  Megara;  432.  Mozart  as  a  boy 
(bronze).  — Beequtt^  434.  Ishmael;  435.  St. 
Sebastian.  —  436.  Bertaux  (Mme.Jy  Psyche.  — 
Bloch,  1065.  Martyr  (wood) ;  1066.  Bust  of  a  man 
(wood).  —  437.  Bonnassieux,  Meditation.  — 
Boucher  (Alfred),  438.  Rest;  1067.  In  the  fields. 
1068.  Captier,  Despair.  —  CarUs,  440. 
Youth;  441.  Abel.  —  442.  Carlier,  Gilliat 
seized  by  the  octopus  (Victor  Hugo).  —  Car- 
rier-BeUeuse,  443.  Hebe  asleep;  1069.  Bac- 
chante. —  446.  Cavelier,  Mother  of  the  Gracchi. 
—  Chapu^  449.  Mercury  inventing  the  caducous ; 
450.  Joan  of  Arc  at  Domremy.  —  1070.  F.  Char- 
pentitr,  Illusion.  —  452.  Chatrousse,  Girl  read- 
ing. —  454.  Christophej  The  supreme  kiss.  — 
455,  456.  Cordier^  Busts  of  a  negro  and  negress. 

__^^^^^     —  457.    Cordon- 

"l^""^"nni  nierj  Joan  of  Arc. 
—  458.  Coutan,  Cu- 
pid.—460.  Crawfc, 
Youth  and  Love.  — 
461.  Croisy,  The 
nest. 

1072.   Dagonety 

Eve.  —  Damply  464.  St.  John ;  465.  Grandmother's  kiss.  —  Dela- 
planehe,  469.  Eve  before  the  Fall;  470.  Virgin  with  the  lily;  471. 
Dawn.  —  1073.  Desbois,  Leda.  —  Dubois  (Paul),  473.  Infant  St. 
John,  in  bronze;  474.  Narcissus;  475.  Florentine  singer  of  the 
15th  cent.,  bronze  gilt. 

Falguihrey  477.  Tarcisius  the  Martyr;  478.  The  victor  in  a 
cock-fight,  in  bronze;  479.  Bust  of  Baroness  Daumesnil.  — 480. 
Franceschiy  Fortune.  —  482.  Frimiet,  Pan  with  bear-cubs. 

1074.  Oardety  Panthers  fighting.  —  OMme  (J.  L.)y  486.  Tana- 
gra,  painted  marble;  1077.  Bonaparte  fbronze-gilt  equestrian  sta- 
tuette). —  Ouillaumey  487.  Anacreon;  488.  The  Gracchi,  in  bronze. 
1078.  Hannauxy  Death  of  Orpheus.  —  491,  HiolUy  Arion  seated 
on  the  dolphin.  —  1079.  BugueSy  O^ldipus  at  Colonos. 

Idracy  493.  Mercury  inventing  the  caducous;  494.  Salammbo 
(from  Flaubert).  —  495.  Injcdbcrt^  Hii^^omcix^k*.  —  1^^,1^IL\^».^ 
Young  Roman.  —  N^o  number,  Ita^ity  "Bwal  ol^^W^'s.'i^'^^  ^^^^^"^^ 
Bakdskrr.  Pari  a.  14th  Edit.  'Vl 


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258  10.    MUSfiE  DU  LUXEMBOURG. 

499.  Lanson ,  Age  of  iron.  —  602.  Lemaire  (H.)y  Monilng.  — 
503.  Lenoir,  John  the  Baptist.  —  505.  Longepied,  Immortality. 

Marqueate^  507.  Cupid;  508.  Galatea;  509.  Persens  wrestling 
with  the  Gorgon.  —  1081.  Mathurin-Moreau,  Spinner.  —  Mereie, 
510.  David,  in  hronze ;  511.  Souvenir.  —  No  numher,  Meunievy 
Industry  (bronze  relief).  —  512.  Millet  (AimS),  Ariadne.  —  Moreau- 
Vauthier  (Aug.),  513.  Boy  drinking;  1087.  Bacchante.  —  544.  Mou- 
lin, A  Pompeian  discovery. 

515.  Oliva,  Bust  of  a  priest. 

518.  Pitre,  Mar^chal,  maire  of  Metz,  bust  —  519.  Peynot,  'Pro 
Patria'.  —  Puech,  520.  Muse  of  Andr^  Chtfnier  (beheaded  during 
the  Revolution);  521.  Siren. 

Rodin,  523.  John  the  Baptist,  in  bronze;  524.  Bust  of  a  woman; 
525.  DanaYd;  1091.  Bust  of  a  man,  bronze. 

Saint- Marceaux,  527.  Youth  of  Dante;  528.  Genius  guarding 
the  secret  of  the  tomb.  —  530.  Salmson  (Jean  Jules)^  Skein- winder, 
in  bronze.  —  533.  South,  Rescue  of  Iphigeneia. 

534.  Thomas,  Virgil.  —  536.  Turean,  The  blind  and  the  lame. 

1094.  Vemhes^  Breton  girl  (wax  bust). 

Outside,  on  the  terrace  next  the  garden,  and  visible  from  the 
garden  only,  are  a  number  of  bronzes:  Houssin,  Phaethon;  Toumois, 
Bacchus  inventing  comedy;  Laoust,  Indian  singer;  Chriatophe,  Fate ; 
Maniglier,  Engraver ;  Charpentier,  Improvisatore ;  Steiner,  Shepherd 
and  satyr ;  Barthilemy,  Young  faun  and  goat ;  ChdUaume  (Ej,  The 
Mower;  P.  Victor,  Lion  and  mouse. 

The  sculpture  gallery  and  the  first  room  of  the  picture  gallery 
contain  (in  glass-cases)  a  highly  interesting  ^Collection  of  Modem 
Medals,  by  Chaplain,  Roty,  Dan.  Dupuia ,  Dubois,  and  others; 
fayence  and  pottery  by  Bigot,  Carriha ,  Chaplet,  Dalpeyrat ,  DeUt- 
herche,  Maasier,  and  others ;  Sevres  porcelain ;  glass  by  Oalli,  Kofp- 
ping,  LlveilU,  and  Tiffany;  enamels  by  Theamar;  objects  in  tin  by 
Brateau,  AU  Charpentier,  Deahoia,  etc. ;  cameos ;  and  other  bric-a- 
brac.  Here  also  are  pieces  of  Gobelins  tapestry,  ancient  and  modem, 
and  a  bust  of  Gallia,  in  ivory,  gold,  and  silver,  with  topazes,  by 
MoreaU'Vauthier  (goldsmith's  work  by  Falise'). 

To  the  right  of  the  sculpture  gallery  are  two  small  rooms  added 
in  1897.  That  to  the  right  contains  the  Legs  CaiUebotte,  a  collection 
of  pictures  by  the  'impressionist^  painters  CSzanne,  Degas  (Danoers, 
Singer,  Figurantes),  Manet  (Balcony,  Olympia),  Monet  (Luncheon, 
Gare  St.  Lazare),  Piasarro,  Rnffaelli,  Renoir  (Moulin  de  la  Galette, 
Girl  playing  the  piano),  and  SialeyA 

The  room  to  the  left  is  devoted  to  the  works  of  foreign  painters, 

t  A  better  survey  of  the  activitv  of  this  school  may  be  obtained  at  the 
ffalerie  Durand-Ruel  (Rue  Laffitte  18;  p.  88)  and  in  the  private  collection 
of  M.  Duraod-BueJ  (Rue  de  Rome  35)^  which  \e  open  to  visitors  on  Wed., 
2-4  p.m.  (fee  to  servAUt), 


10.  MUS^E  DU  LUXEMBOURG.  259 

whldh ,  owing  to  lack  of  spaoe ,  aie  exhibited  by  turns  in  three 
diTlfiong  (British  and  Ameriean,  German  and  Scandinavian,  Bel- 
gian and  Dutch).  The  following  are  the  most  important:  Alexander^ 
Portrait;  974  Baertsoen,  Old  Flemish  canal;  BashkirUe/f  (Marie), 
296.  The  Meeting,  414,415.  Portraits  (pastel) ;  975.  Baud-Bovy 
(Genera),  Serene  sky;  976.  Branywyn  (English) ,  A  trade  on  the 
heach;  no  number,  Burnand,  Apostles;  Claus,  Sunshine;  298.  Dan- 
nat  (W.  D.;  Amer.),  Lady  in  red;  300.  Edelfelt  (Alb.;  Finland). 
Divine  serrioe  on  the  shore;  Fridiric,  The  ages  of  labour;  Gay 
{^WaUtfi  Amer.),  977.  Saying  grace,  302.  Las  Cigarreras;  Oitsoul, 
Evening;  304.  Hamilton  (J.  M.;  Amer.),  Rt.  Hon.  W.  E.  Glad- 
stone; 306.  Harrison  (^AUx,;  Amer.),  Solitude;  978.  Havckins 
(W,;  English),  Orphans;  Kroyer,  Fishing:  308.  Kuehl,  A  difflcult 
question ;  979.  Liebermann,  Beer-garden;  981.  Lorimer  (J,H. ;  Scot), 
Grandmother's  birthday ;  983.  Melchers,  Young  mother;  310.  Mes- 
dag^  Sunset;  984.  Afeunicr,  The  Black  Country;  312,  313.  De  Nittis, 
PUeo  des  Pyramides  and  Place  du  Carrousel,  Paris ;  314.  Salmson 
(HJ,  Swedish  children;  315.  Sargent  (J,  S,  •  Amer.).  Carmencita; 
316.  Skredsvig  (Chr.),  Villa  Baciocohi  at  Ajaccio;  986.  Sorolla  y 
Baatida,  Return  of  the  fishermen;  Stevens  (Alf.),  318.  Impassioned 
song,  987.  After  the  ball;  Stevens  (J J,  Tortures  of  Tantalus;  Thau- 
lotD,  819.  Winter  in  Norway,  425.  Old  factory  in  Norway  (pastel) ; 
821.  Uhde^  Christ  blessing  the  meal  of  a  peasant;  990.  Walden 
^Uond;  Amer.),  Docks  at  Cardiff ;  323.  Watts  (G.  FJ,  Love  and 
Life;  324.  WMsUer  (J.  M,),  The  artist's  mother;  320.  Zom,  Fisher- 
man; Zulaoga^  Portrait. 

Paintings  by  Fbbnch  ^Ustbrs. 

1.  Adan  (Em,)^  Ferryman's  daughter.  —  891.  Agache,  The  aged 
conqueror.  —  3.  Aman-Jean,  Portrait  of  a  young  woman. 

892.  Bott,  The  housewife.  —  7.  Barrias  (FilJ,  ExUes  of  Tibe- 
rius. —  8.  Bastien- Lepage  f  Haying  (Les  Foins).  —  Baudry,  9. 
Fortune  and  the  chUd;  10.  Truth;  11,  896.  Portraits.  —  896.  Ben- 
ner,  St  Jerome.  —  Bernard^  15.  Woman  warming  herself;  329.  An 
engraver;  898.  Harbour  of  Algiers  at  sunset.  —  Binet,  17.  Evening; 
"900.  Sunlight.  —  901.  Bompard,  Prayer  to  the  Virgin  (Venice). 
—  19.  Bonheur  (Rosa),  Husbandry  in  Nivemais,  with  masterly 
animals  and  charming  details.  —  Bonnat,  20.  L^on  Cognlet,  the 
painter;  21.  Job;  23.  Cardinal  Lavigerie.  —  28.  Boudin,  Sea- 
piece.  —  903.  Boudot,  The  golden  season  of  the  year.  —  Bouguereau, 
29.  Triumph  of  martyrdom  (St.  Cecilia);  30.  The  Virgin  as  consoler; 
31.  Youth  and  Love.  —  905.  Boulard,  Father  of  the  artist.  —  35. 
Br€Um(Em.),  Falling  leayes.  —  Breton  (Jules),  36.  Blessing  the  crops ; 
37.  Gleaners.  —  40.  Brown  (J,  LJ,  Before  the  start.  —  41.  Bu- 
JandfEu^eJj  Crossbow-men.  —  44.  fiutin,  ^tteVoX^I  ^%^>\^^\s^ 
ViOmMndjr, 


260  10.  MUSfiE  DU  LUXEMBOURG. 

Cahanelj  45.  Birth  of  Venus;  46.  Portrait  of  an  architect.  —  47. 
Cahat,  Ville-d'Avray.  —  Carolua-Duran^  48.  Lady  with  &  glove; 
914.  Portraits  of  the  painter's  daughter  and  her  children.  —  Carrihre 
(Eug.),  916.  Family;  52.  Maternity.  —  53.  Caxin,  Ishmael.  —  Cfcop- 
lin^  55.  Remembrances;  56.  Girl.  —  59.  Chenavard^  The  Divine 
Tragedy.  —  60.  Collin,  May  (Tlor^al*).  —  Constant,  62.  The  last 
rehels ;  919.  Portrait  of  his  son.  —  Cormon,  63.  Cain ;  921.  The  forge ; 
920.  Lehoux,  the  painter.  —  No  number,  Cottet,  The  farewell 
(triptych).  —  66.  Courbety  Landscape. 

69.  Doffnan-Bouveretj  The  sacred  wafer.  —  71.  Damoye,  Marsh. 

—  72.  Dantan,  Sculptor's  studio.  —  74.  Daumiery  The  thieves  and 
the  donkey. — Delaunay,  78.  Plague  at  Rome;  79.  Diana;  80.  Portrait 
of  his  mother.  —  Demont  (Adr.),  81.  Night  (landscape);  82.  Abel.  — 
83.  Demont'Breton  (Virginie),  Beach.  —  88,  89.  Dtsgoffe,  Still-life. 

—  90.  Dwerem,  Close  of  the  day.  —  91.  DetaiUe,  The  Dream.  —  Dinet, 
94.  Terraces  of  Laghouat  (Algeria);  923.  Morning  after  Ramadan.  — 
Duez,  96.  St.  Cuthbert,  a  triptych;  925.  Ulysse  Rutin,  the  painter. 

—  97.  Dufour,  View  of  Avignon  In  December.  —  JDupri  (Jules) ^ 
98.  Morning;  99.  Evening. 

Fantin-Latoury  103.  Studio  of  Manet,  the  painter:  927.  Night. 

—  106.  Feyen-Perrin,  Oyster-flshers  of  Cancale.  —  109.  Flameng, 
Sea-piece.  —  Fran^ais,  115.  End  of  winter;  929.  The  artist's  father. 

—  118.  Friant,  All  Saints'  Day. 

930.  Oagliardini,  Roussillon  (Provence).  — 121.  Qaillard,  Mgr. 
de  Stfgur  (blind).  —  124.  Qeoffroy^  Visiting-day  at  the  hospital.  — 
126.  QeorgtS'Btrtrand,  *La  Patrie'  (study  for  the  picture  mentioned 
at  p.  319).  —  127.  OMme,  Cock-fight.  —  129.  Oervex,  Jury.  — 
Oigoux,  131.  Lieut.-Gen.  Dwernickl;  133.  Oh.  Fourier  (founder  of 
the  Phalanstftre).  —  350.  Oilberty  Renovating  tapestry  (crayon).  — 
933.  Oirardot,  Port  of  Tangiers.  —  135.  OlaitCy  Ancient  Roman  con- 
spirators. —  935.  Ouignard,  Cattle  by  a  pond.  —  Ouillaumet,  139. 
Laghouat;  140.  Biskra.  —  OuUlemety  142.  View  of  Bercy  in  winter; 
936.  Paris.  —  143.  Ouillou,  At  the  *Pardon  de  Ste.  Anne'. 

146.  Hareuxy  Night  in  August.  —  148,  149.  HarpignUs,  Land- 
scapes. -^  Eibert,  150.  Malaria;  152.  The  CervaroUes  (Roman  Cam- 
pagna).  —  JBfenner,  156.  The  chaste  Susanna;  157.  Naiad;  158.  St. 
Sebastian.  —  938.  Humbert^  Portrait  of  a  woman. 

162.  Isabeyy  Embarkation  of  De  Ruyter  and  De  Witt. 

166.  Jacque,  Flock  of  sheep.  —  167.  Jalabert,  Portrait.  —  940. 
Jeannioty  Women. 

941.  Lan^ony  Portrait  of  his  father.  —  175.  Lanayety  Environs 
of  Mentone.  —  Laurens  (J,  P.;,  178.  Excommunication  of  King 
Robert  of  France;  179.  Deliverance  of  the  prisoners  of  Carcas- 
sonne; 942.  Inquisitors.  —  943.  Lebourg,  Herblay.  —  184.  Leflbvre 
/"JulesJ,  Truth.  —  Legros,  185.  'Amende  honorable';  994.  Dead  Christ. 
—  ^89.  Lenepveu^  Martyrs  in  tlie  CaUcom\)a.  —  LttolU^  190.  In 


10.  MUS^E  DU  LUXEMBOURG.  261 

the  country ;  946.  Portrait  of  a  lady.  —  191.  Leroux  (Eughne)^  The 
new-bom  Infant.  —  No  number ,  Leroyj  Bath.  —  L£vy  (H,)^  no 
number,  (Edipus  and  Antigone;  198.  Sarpedon.  —  200.  Lhtrmitte^ 
Reapers'  pay-day.  —  949.  Lomont  (Eug.)y  The  gong. 

201.  Maignan^  Apotheosis  of  Garpeaux.  —  951.  Martin^  Inspi- 
ration. —  952.  Mathey^  Engraver.  —  Meissoniefj  205.  Napoleon  in. 
at  Solf^rino,  a  good  example  of  this  master,  who  excels  in  individ- 
ualising his  figures  on  a  very  small  scale ;  454.  Portrait  of  Alexandre 
Dumas  the  Younger;  landscape  and  sketches.  —  Minard^  955.  Por- 
trait; 1041.  Autumn  (pastel).  —  216.  Montenard^  The  transport 
*Oorrft£e'  leaving  Toulon.  —  217.  Monvtl  (Boutet  de).  Deserted 
house.  —  218.  Moreau  (Qust.)^  Greek  maiden  with  the  head  and 
lyre  of  the  murdered  Orpheus.  —  219.  Morot^  Rezonville.  —  957. 
Muenier,  The  workmen. 

NeuvUU  (Alph.  de),  222.  Le  Bourget  (1870);  223.  Street-fight 
(sketches). 

229.  Ftfret  (AimS),  Priest  bearing  the  viaticum  to  a  dying  man, 
a  scene  in  Burgundy.  —  963.  Petitjeany  Harbour  of  Rochelle  in  bad 
weather.  —  Pointeliny  231.  September  evening;  232.  C6tes  du  Jura, 
seen  from  the  plain.  —  964.  Prinet,  Bath.  —  233.  ProtaUy  Battalion 
in  square  (1815).  —  234.  PuvU  de  ChavanneSy  The  poor  fisherman. 
235.  Quignon,  Cornfield. 

Renard,  242.  The  Grandmother ;  243.  A  christening.  —  Rihoty  247. 
St.  Sebastian;  248.  Good  Samaritan;  249.  Christ  and  the  Scribes. 

—  250.  Ricard,  Portrait.  —  966.  Richon-Brunet,  Bull-ring  at  Seville. 

—  Rohert-Fleury  (J,  N,)j  253.  Conference  at  Poissy,  in  presence  of 
Catherine  de  M^dicis  and  Charles  IX.  (1561);  254.  Galileo  before 
the  Inquisition ;  255.  Columbus  after  his  return  from  America.  — 
Robert-Fteury  (Tony) ,  256.  Old  women  in  the  church  of  Santa  Maria 
della  Pace  (Rome);  257.  Last  Days  of  Corinth.  —  967.  Rochegrom, 
Knight  of  the  Flowers.  —  RoU,  258.  Forward;  259.  Milk-maid.  — 
262.  Rousseau  (Ph.),  The  hermit  rat. 

468.  SabattSy  Interior  of  St.  Germain-des-Pr^s.  —  266.  Sautai^ 
Eve  of  an  execution  (Rome).  —  270.  Simonnetj  Ville-d'Avray  in 
winter.  —  272.  Sylvestre,  Locusta  testing  the  poison  intended  for 
Britannicus. 

273.  Tanziy  Evening.  —  274.  Tassaerty  Distressed  family.  — 
971.  Tattegrainy  Disembarkation  of  field-workers.  —  276.  Tissoty 
Faust  and  Margaret.  —  972.  ToumlSy  A  confirmation. 

279.  Valadoriy  Portrait  of  a  young  woman.  —  Vollotiy  283.  Cu- 
riosities ;  284.  Fish. 

278.  WeertSy  Death  of  Jos.  Bara  (comp.p.353).  —  289.  Wenehtty 
Artemis. 

292.  Zieniy  View  in  Venice.  —  294.  Zu6er,  Hollandsch  Diep. 

The  last  room  but  one  to  the  right  is  devoted  to  *o^^tkm3l  ^^rXjS^^hKov^^ 
of  drawings,  etchings,  engravings,   or  Uthograi.p\ia  ^n  ^SKft  PwoU  d*  CiVa.- 
raftftes,  Alph.  Leyroi,  and  /.  Buho(^.    In  the  \aa\  room  \«k  V\i<i  C,Q\i«.0«AS5ro.  ^\ 


262  10.   JARDIN  DU  LUXEMBOURG. 

M.  Hayem  (1898),  including  the  following  pictures :  several  water-colours 
by  Oust.  Moreau  (Apparition,  Phaethon,  Bathsheba,  Calvary,  Deatb  A  the 
Yonng  Man,  etc.)  \  E.  Mvy^  Barbey  d'Aur^villy,  tbe  author ;  BcuHen-L^pagef 
Franck,  the  sholarj  Delavnay^  M.  Hayem;  Catin^  Winter-scene;  Ribot^ 
Still-life;  Vollon,  Flowers;  drawings  by  Dagncm-Bouveret^  Faniin-LatoWy 
Lhermitte^  Pointelin,  RaffaUli^  Ribot,  and  Rops. 

8.    Jardin  da  Luxembourg. 

The  *Oarden  of  the  Lnzembonrg  (open  daily  from  early  morning 
till  10  or  11  p.m.)  is  tbe  only  remaining  Renaissance  garden  in  Paris. 
A  military  band  plays  here,  to  the  left  under  the  trees,  in  summer  on 
Tues.,  Frid.,  and  Sun.,  from  4  to  5,  or  from  5  to  6  (comp.  p.  36). 
The  principal  entrances  are  on  the  sides  next  the  Boul.  St.  Michel 
and  the  Odtfon  (p.  263),  but  there  is  another  on  the  W.  side,  close 
to  the  exit  from  the  Luxembourg  Gallery. 

The  garden  contains  few  lawns  and  not  many  flowers;  but 
amongst  the  clumps  of  trees  and  the  open  spaces  for  children's 
gannes  there  are  numerous  sculptures.  On  the  terrace  of  the  Mu- 
seum are  statues  belonging  to  it  (p.  258).  Behind  the  Museum : 
Sculpture,  by  A.  Millet;  Painting,  by  Francesehi;  After  the  contest, 
by  Levasseur;  At  the  Goal,  by  A,  Boucher,  Farther  on  is  the  Monu- 
ment of  Eugine  Delacroix  (1798-1863),  the  painter,  by  DcUou,  It 
consists  of  a  fountain  with  a  bronze  bust,  and  bronze  figures  of 
Time  bringing  fame  to  the  artist  and  the  Genius  of  Art  applauding 
him.  —  In  the  W.  part  of  the  garden :  Triumph  of  Silenus,  bronze 
group  by  Dalou ;  Hercules,  by  Ottin.  In  the  S.  part,  the  former 
Tepiniere';  Family  Joys,  by  Daillon;  Bust  of  Sainte-Beuve  (1804- 
69),  by  Pueeh  (1898);  *Monument  to  Watteau  (1684-1721),  by 
GauquU,  The  last  consists  of  a  bust  of  the  painter,  in  pewter,  with 
a  lady  (in  marble)  of  the  time  of  Louis  XV.  offering  him  flowers 
(1896).  Then,  Eustache  Le  Sueur,  by  Huston;  Wrestlers  (bronze),  by 
Ottin;  Stags,  by  Leduc;  Orlando  Furioso  (bronze),  by  Duseigneur; 
Lion  and  Ostrich,  by  Cain^  etc.) 

In  the  centre  of  the  garden ,  in  front  of  the  palace ,  is  &  large 
space  surrounded  by  a  terrace  and  balustrade  and  embellished  with 
an  octagonal  fountain-basin,  and  various  statues :  on  this  side  of  the 
fountain,  as  we  return,  Archidamas  about  to  throw  the  disc,  by  Le- 
maire ;  to  the  right,  Yulcan,  by  Bridan  the  Elder ;  Marius  amid  the 
ruins  of  Carthage,  by  V.  Vilain;  in  front  of  the  Palace,  Explosion,  by 
H,  Qreber^  etc.  —  The  dome-covered  building  visible  at  the  end  of 
the  avenue  leading  from  the  basin  is  the  Observatory  (p.  286).  To 
the  left  of  the  garden  rises  the  Ecole  des  Mines  (p.  284);  to  the 
right,  the  schools  mentioned  at  p.  285. 

The  terraces  around  the  parterre  are  embellished  with  twenty 

modern  statues  in  marble  of  celebrated  Frenchwomen  (brought  from 

the  Park  of  Sceaux,  p.  351),  the  stiffness  of  which  does  not  harmon- 

JS0  well  with  the  garden.   Their  names  are  inscribed.   At  the  end, 

to  the  left,  ia  Toil,  a  bronze  statue  hy  Gautherin.  Among  the  other 

BeulptureB  ia  this  part  of  the  garden  are  ^DwiCiI^^'S%wli^^3^\»lWlaA^ 


10.   THEATRE  DE  L'OD^ON.  263 

by  LequtifUf  the  *Maioh&nd  de  Masques*,  by  Astruc  (the  12  masks 
are  portraits  of  celebrated  contemporaries),  and  a  Bu$t  ofJUconte 
de  LUU  (1818-94),  the  poet,  by  Puech. 

The  *FoNTAiNB  DB  Mtoiois ,  by  Debrosie ,  in  the  Doric  style, 
with  imitations  of  stalactites,  rises  on  the  same  side.  Three  niches 
between  the  columns  contain  sculptures  by  Ottin ;  the  group  in  the 
middle  represents  Polyphemus  surprising  Acis  and  Oalatea.  At  the 
back  of  this  fountain  is  a  ^Fontaine  de  Lida\ 

Farther  on :  Adam  and  his  family,  a  marble  group  by  Qarraud 
(1861);  Butt  of  Th.  de  BanvilU  (1823-91),  the  poet,  by  J.  Roulleau; 
Monument  of  Murger  (1822-61),  author  of  the  ^Scftnes  de  la  Vie  de 
Bohdme',  by  H.  Bouillon ;  and  Bacchui,  by  Crauk, 


The  The&tre  de  TOd^on  (VI.  B,  19;  IV)^  a  second  Tht^atre  Francais, 
opposite  the  £.  part  of  the  garden  of  the  Luxembourg  but  facing  in  the 
opposite  direction,  is  a  building  in  the  classic  style  founded  in  1782,  but 
rebuilt  or  restored  in  1806  and  1818.  The  arcades  which  surround  it  are 
partly  occupied  by  booksellers'  shops.  —  In  the  square  in  front  of  the 
Odtfon  is  a  Monument  to  Emile  Augier  (182C)-80),  the  dramatic  poet,  con- 
sisting of  his  bust  and  bronze  statues  of  Comedy,  the  Aventuri^re  (one  of 
Augier^s  plays),  and  a  Child  brandishing  the  whip  of  satire,  all  by  E.  Barrias, 

In  the  vicinity,  Ko.  70  Rue  de  Vaagirard,  is  St.  Joseph-de*-Carme%^ 
the  former  chapel  of  the  monastery  notorious  for  the  massacres  of  Sept. 
1798.  The  crypt  (open  on  Frid.  and  Sept.  2nd-llth)  still  shows  traces  of 
these  atrocities  and  contains  the  tombs  of  the  victims.  Adjoining  is  the 
Jmtiiiut  Oatholiquen  a  kind  of  free  university,  established  in  1875. 

Famthion,  Sorbonne^  Mtuie  de  Cluny^  see  pp.  240,  238,  230  ^  Observatory^ 
(^meterp  of  ifontparnasse,  Pare  Montsouris^  see  pp.  286  et  seq. 

11.  The  Jardin  des  Plantes  and  the  Gobelins. 

I.  FBOM  THS  LOUYBE  TO  THS  JABSIN  DES  PLANTES. 

Sstarday  la  the  only  day  on  which  it  is  possible  to  visit  both  the 
Jardin  des  Plantes,  with  its  galleries,  and  the  Gobelins.  As  the  latter  is 
closed  at  3  p.m.,  the  best  plan  is  to  interrupt  the  visit  to  the  Jardin  des 
Plantes  and  return  to  it  later.  On  Wed.  the  Natural  History  Galleries  are 
closed,  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.  they  are  open  to  the  public,  and  on  Tues.  and 
Frid.  on  application;  but  on  these  days  there  is  no  admission  to  the 
Gobelins.  The  visit  to  the  Gobelins  may  also  be  combined  with  B.  13. 
—  ^eaimhocUi^  see  p.  26.  —  Chemin  de  Fer  d  Orlians^  from  the  new  station, 
see  p.  26.  Omnibus  to  the  Gobelins  direct,  see  p.  268.  —  Luncheon  should 
be  taken  before  starting,  or  at  one  of  the  following  restaurants  near  the 
Jardin  des  Plantes:  Tour-d  Argent^  Quai  de  la  Tournelle  15,  cor.  of  Boul. 
St.  Germain,  first-class  ^  Arc-en-Ciel,  Boul.  de  I'Udpital  2  (p.  19),  D.  3  fr., 
also  k  la  carte. 

The  pleasantest  way  of  reaching  the  Jardin  des  Plantes  is  by 
steamboat  (see  p.  24),  but  the  omnibus-lines  G  and  K  or  the 
tramway-line  TM  may  also  be  found  convenient.  The  piers  nearest 
the  Louvre  are  at  the  Pont  des  Arts  (p.  245)  and  the  Pont-Koyal 
(p.  271),  on  the  right  bank,  and  near  the  Font  da  Carrousel  or 
Pont  des  SaintS'Phrea^  on  the  left  bank.  This  handsome  bridge, 
which  connects  the  Place  du  Carrousel  (p.  153)  with  the  Rue  d.ea 
Sts.  PbTOB,  was  coiMtructed  in  i83*l-S4  \)7  Polotwtau,  \\.  S.%  «vsv- 


264  11.   JARDIN  DES  PLANTES. 

bellished  with  colossal  statues  in  stone  after  Petitet :  Plenty  and 
Industry  on  the  right  bank,  the  Seine  and  the  Gity  of  Paris  on  the  left. 
From  the  steamboat  we  observe  on  the  left  the  Louvre  and  the 
tower  of  St.  Germain-rAuxerrois  (p.  62),  and  on  the  right  the 
Institut  (p.  245).  Beyond  the  Pont  des  Arts  the  Monnaie  lies  on 
the  right.  We  next  observe  the  statue  of  Henri  IV.  on  the  right, 
and  pass  under  the  Pont-Neuf.  On  the  right  rises  the  Palais  de 
Justice ;  on  the  left  is  the  Place  du  Chatelet,  with  its  fountain  and 
theatres.  Beyond  the  Pont  au  Change  the  Tribunal  de  Oommerce 
is  on  the  right,  and  beyond  the  Pont  Notre-Dame  we  observe  the 
extensive  Hdtel-Dieu  on  the  same  side.  We  next  pass  under 
the  Pont  d'Arcole.  On  the  left  rises  the  H6tel  de  Yille,  and  on 
the  right,  on  the  other  side  of  the  island,  Notre-Dame  (p.  224). 
On  the  left  we  next  observe  St.  Gervais  (p.  69),  and  in  the  dis- 
tance the  dome  of  St.  Paul  and  the  Golonne  de  Juillet  (p.  71).  We 
next  have  the  He  St.  Louis  (p.  227)  on  the  left  and  the  Oit^  on  the 
right,  passing  under  the  Pont  St.  Louis.  To  the  right,  the  Morgue 
fp.  227).  Farther  on,  the  Pont  de  la  Tournelle,  the  Pont  Sully 
^p.  218),  and  the  monument  to  Barye  (p.  228).  On  the  right  are 
the  Halle-aux-Yins  and  the  Jardin  des  Plantes.  We  disembark 
at  the  Pont  d' Auaterlitz,  which  was  enlarged  in  1884-85  to  a  width 
of  100  ft.  Near  the  bridge,  on  the  left  bank,  is  the  old  Oare  d'Or- 
Uans,  whence  the  Orleans  line  is  now  prolonged  along  the  quays  to 
the  new  terminus  on  the  Quai  d'Orsay  (p.  271). 

II.  JABSIN  SEB  PLANTEB. 

In  the  *  Jardin  des  Plantes  or  Muaium  d'HistoIre  NaturelU 
(PI.  G,  R,  22,  25;  V),  which  lies  at  the  E.  end  of  the  quarters 
of  the  city  on  the  left  bank ,  are  concentrated  most  of  the  Parisian 
institutions  connected  with  natural  science.  Besides  the  zoological 
and  botanical  garden,  it  comprises  natural  history  collections,  la- 
boratories, and  a  library.  Lectures  on  natural  history,  to  which 
the  public  are  admitted  gratuitously,  are  also  given  here  in  the 
AmphithSdtre,  a  hall  capable  of  containing  1200  persons. 

The  professors  of  the  Museum  organize  Bdentifie  BxeurtiofU  in  summer 
to  different  points  in  the  environs  of  Paris,  concerning  which  information 
may  be  obtained  in  the  laboratories.  A  Tourista^  Course  in  natural  history 
is  also  held  in  summer. 

Among  the  scientific  men  of  European  celebrity  who  have  taught 
here  may  be  mentioned  the  botanists  De  Jussieu  (Bernard  d.  1776, 
Laurent  d.  1836,  Adrien  d.  1853),  the  mineralogists  Daubenton  fd. 
1799)  and  Hauy  fd.  1822),  and  the  zoologists  Buffon  (d.  1788), 
LactfpMe  (d.  1826),  Lamarck  (d.  1829),  Ouvier  (d.  1832),  and 
GeoffToy  St.  Hilaire  (d.  1844). 

TJie  Jardin  des  Plantes.  in  the  wider  sense  ^  iso^en.  dally  from  an  early 

Iioar  tJJJ  dusk,  but  the  Menagerie,  the  Co\\ec\ioTiB,  \\i%lSLo«Mswt%,  vA\&k^ 

i/z'^^Jt^^  8^own  at  certain  hours  only.  The  M4nafleritV%  o^w^^^  Jraa. 

iiJ^^y  (?  ^^  ^°nJ  from  1st  March  to  BOthSept.,  wid.  ItomVVX.^  V  V.>^  ^^ 

^"'''  "^  Oct,)  dariig  the  rest  of  the  year.  The  aileries  d«  AlvtaMSiw  Ti*cm.\% 


i^nt^jyH  fiaji  TiiDnxJ^kJ  y 


11.   JARDIN  DES  PLANTES.  265 

Are  open  to  tlie  public  on  Thurs.,  1-5  (1-4  in  winter),  when  the  animals  are 
not  outside,  and  on  other  days  by  tickets  obtained  from  the  ^Administration' 
(p.  206).  —  The  Oalleries  of  Natural  Hitiory  are  open  to  the  public  on  Sun. 
and  Thurs.  li-8  (till  6  in  Aug.  A  Sept.)  and  on  Tues.,  Frid.,  and  Sat.  by  ticket. 
—  The  Bothouaea  (Sevres)  are  shown  by  ticket  only,  on  Tues.,  Frid.,  and  Sat., 
1-4.  The  Grande  Serre,  however,  is  open  daily  except  Hon.  and  Sat.,  1-5. 
The  GaieHe  de  Paliontologie  is  open  on  Tues.,  1-i.  The  Ltbrary  is  open 
daily  from  10  to  4,  except  on  Sun.  and  holidays,  and  during  the  vacations 
(Sept.  and  a  fortnight  at  Easter).  —  From  the  above  it  will  be  noted  that 
everything  may  be  seen  on  Tues. ;  the  tickets,  which  are  readily  granted 
to  strangers,  are  available  for  5  persons.  On  Sun.  the  Menagerie  and  Na- 
tural History  Galleries  are  open  free. 

The  Jardin  des  Plantes,  projected  in  1626,  was  founded  by  Ouy  de  La- 
hroue^  one  of  the  most  eminent  botanists  of  his  time,  about  1635,  when 
he  laid  out  the  Jardin  Royal  dea  Plantea  Midicinales.  After  several  years 
of  mismanagement  by  the  court  physicians,  the  celebrated  Buffon  was 
appointed  director  of  the  gardens  in  1732.  He  entirely  remodelled  them, 
founded  collections  in  every  department  of  natural  history,  and  gave  the 
whole  establishment  the  name  of  Jardin  du  Roi»  Buffon  was  succeeded  by 
Bernardin  de  Saint-Pierre^  who  transferred  hither  the  royal  menagerie  of 
Versailles  in  1793,  and  opened  the  library  in  1794.  The  garden  was  then 
called  MH»4wnd^Hiatoire  Naturelle^  by  which  name  it  is  still  officially  known. 
Under  Napoleon  I.  the  collections  were  considerably  enlarged.  In  our  own 
times  the  garden  was  long  under  the  charge  of  If.  Ohevreul.  the  celebrated 
chemist  and  centenaHan  (1786-1889),  M.  E.  Fremy  (1814-1894),  and  Alphome 
Milne-Edwardt  (1835-1900). 

The  Jardin  des  Plantes  (see  annexed  Plan) ,  which  covers  an 
iiiegnlai  quadrilateral  area  of  75  acres,  is  divided  into  two  distinct 
parts.  (1)  The  Jardin  Botanique,  extending  from  the  principal 
entrance  in  the  Place  Yalhubert  to  the  Galeries  de  Zooiogle  at  the 
other  end.  (2)  The  Minagtrie,  or  zoological  department,  to  the 
right  (N.)  of  the  first,  ending  at  an  eminence,  80  ft.  high,  called 
the  Labyrintht.  —  We  shall  first  describe  the  second  and  more  fre- 
quented of  these  parts.  The  annexed  plan  will  enable  visitors  to 
find  their  way  without  difficulty.  The  scientific  names  of  the  ani- 
mals, as  well  as  those  of  the  plants,  and  their  place  of  origin  are 
marked  In  each  case. 

Hinagerie.  —  Entering  from  the  Place  Yalhubert,  we  turn  to 
the  right  and  proceed  to  visit  the  cages  of  the  Animaux  Firocea. 
Admission  to  the  houses  when  the  animals  are  inside,  see  p.  264. 
The  surrounding  enclosures  are  occupied  by  the  Animaux  Paiaiblea^ 
including  numerous  antelopes,  deer,  and  other  animals  of  the  kind. 
A  little  to  the  W.  of  the  Animaux  F^roces  is  the  Palais  des 
Singesy  or  monkey-house,  the  Inmates  of  which  are  an  unfailing 
source  of  amusement.  A  little  farther  to  the  W.  are  numerous  other 
graminivorous  or  'peaceable'  animals,  and  on  the  left  we  observe  the 
Rotonde  des  Orands  Animaux,  containing  elephants,  young  hippopo- 
tami, rhinoceroses,  camels,  etc.  —  A  few  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  Ko- 
tonde  is  the  Fosse  aux  Ours,  or  bears'  den,  adjoining  the  botanical 
garden.  —  To  the  N.  and  N.  W.  of  the  rotxiiid*.  vt^  IV^  ^%'«%»  ^Wio.ss. 
J9/r^s  of  Prey y  the  Orande  VoUttt,  or  a^M^,  ^Ck  EaUau^wx^.^  ^^^ 
the  Heptile  House,  which  is  specially  inteiea\\iv%.  k^^^.^e^'^  ^^  '^'^ 
CrocodUe  Pond  (in  summer).  —  "Pioceetov^  Vewt^  \.Q  ^Oaa '^.-.^'^ 


266  11.   JARDIN  DES  PLANTES. 

reach  the  former  Anatomical  Gallery  (see  below)  on  the  right,  and  the 
basin  of  the  Ottaries  or  Sea  Lions  (fed  at  3  p.m.)  on  the  left  Behind 
this  is  the  Orangery  (shown  by  ticket  only  like  the  other  hothouses, 
see  p.  264).  Farther  on  are  the  AmphithSditrej  or  lecture-hall,  and 
the  office  of  the  ^Admini$tration\  where  the  tickets  mentioned  at 
p.  264  are  obtained. 

The  Labyrinthe  (Pi.  2),  the  artificial  mound  at  the  N.W.  corner 
of  the  garden,  is  intersected  by  numerous  paths,  which  at  one  time 
formed  a  maze.  On  the  N.E.  side  of  the  hill  is  a  magnificent  Cedar 
of  Lebanon  (PI.  4),  10  ft.  in  circumference,  planted  here  in  1735  by 
the  elder  Jussieu.  A  little  higher  up,  almost  hidden  in  the  shrub- 
bery, is  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  Daubenton  (d.  1799 ;  PL  6), 
an  eminent  naturalist  and  director  of  the  Jardiu  des  Plantes. 

A  gate  beyond  the  labyrinth  leads  into  the  Bue  Llnn^  in  which  riaes 
the  Fontaine  Ouvier^  erected  in  18^  from  designs  by  Vigoureox.  It  consists 
of  a  niche  with  a  statue  of  Nature  sittii^  on  a  lion,  and  holding  a  tablet 
with  the  inscription  *'rerum  eoffnoscere  eautcu*. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  labyrinth  are  the  hothouses  for  tropical 
plants  (Serrea  TempSrees  and  8erre8  Chaudes);  adm.,  see  p.  264. 

Gtdleries  (admission,  see  p.  264).  The  natural  history  galleries 
of  the  Jardin  des  Plantes  are  among  the  most  extensive  in  existence. 

The  Oallbbtes  op  Zooloot  are  arranged  in  a  handsome  build- 
ing, completed  in  1889,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Botanical  Garden. 
The  facade  is  embellished  with  a  figure  of  Science  in  high-relief, 
by  E.  Ouillaume,  and  medallions  of  famous  naturalists.  We  enter 
from  the  right  side. 

Gbodkd  Floor:  MammaUf  including  a  rich  collection  of  Quadrumana, 
and  Fuhes.  At  the  foot  of  the  K.  staircase  to  the  first  floor  are  the  tomb 
of  Ouy  de  Labroue  (p.  266),  a  bronze  group  by  F.  Cavelier.  and  a  marble  statue 
of  Buffon  (p.  265).  At  the  foot  of  the  S.  stoircase  to  the  first  floor,  is  the 
bust  and  tomb  of  Victor  Jacquemonl  (1801-1831),  traveller  and  eolleetor  for 
the  museum.  On  the  balustrade,  a  fine  bronze  group  by  J.  ThomAS.  — 
FiBST  Floob:  BirdSy  Reptiles^  Batraehians^  Mollusct^  <ind  Zoophptu.  The 
collection  of  birds  is  especially  fine. —  Second  and  Third  Floors.  Insects 
(fine  butterflies)  and  Crustacea. 

The  adjoining  buildings,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  garden,  contain  the  gal- 
leries of  geology  and  botany  and  the  library. 

The  Galleby  op  Oeolggy  and  MinbuaIiOOy  contains  statues  of 
Georges  Cuvier  (1769-1832),  by  David  d' Angers,  and  of  BenS  Hauy 
(1743-1822),  the  mineralogist,  by  Brion,  and  is  embellished  by 
large  landscape  paintings  by  Biard. 

The  Gallery  op  Botany  contains  interesting  specimens  of 
exotic  plants,  reproductions  of  fruit  in  wax,  etc.  In  the  vestibale 
is  a  statue  of  Adrien  de  Jussieu  (1686-1758),  by  Legendre-H^ral. 

The  herbaria  on  the  upper  floor  are  open  to  students  only.  The  American 
herbarium  presented  in  18U5  by  Alexander  von  Humboldt  is  preserved  here. 
In  1885  the  collection  was  enriched  by  the  herbarium  of  Lamarck^  re- 
purchased from  the  University  of  Bostock. 

The  Lib&aay  contains  nearly  175,000  vols.,  2180  MSS.,  18,700 
original  drawingB,  and  3800  maps. 

The  *Qallbb,y  of  Oompabatiyb  Amatovi,  «.\^«^.  viuiQC  the 


11.   JARDIN  DES  PLANTES.  267 

S.  Bide,  occupies  a  building  (completed  in  1898),  designed  as  the 
first  part  of  a  palatial  range  that  is  to  extend  to  meet  the  aboye- 
mentioned  galleries,  at  the  other  end  of  the  garden.  In  the  pediment 
above  the  entrance,  at  the  W.  end,  the  three  kingdoms  of  Nature,  by 
Allar;  on  the  longer  fagade  are  four  bronze-reliefs  of  contests  be- 
tween men  and  beasts  and  eight  small  marble  reliefs  of  animal 
life.  In  front  are  placed  two  bronze  statues  by  Fremiet:  The  Stone 
Age  and  the  First  Artist. 

In  the  vestibule,  to  the  right,  is  a  Combat  between  a  man  and  a  gorilla, 
a  marble  group  by  Frimiet.  —  The  interior  contains  Anthropological  and 
Palteonioloffical  Collections  in  addition  to  the  Collection  of  Comparative  Ana- 
tcmpy  founded  by  Guvier,  in  which  all  the  races  of  mankind  wiih  their 
varieties  are  illustrated  by  skeletons,  skulls,  and  easts.  In  the  Amphithiatre^ 
or  lecture-room,  are  a  ceiling-painting  by  Cormon^  representing  ihe  pro- 
gress of  mankind  towards  enlightenment,  and  ten  paintings  of  primaeval 
subjects. 

The  Pa  VILLON  Geobges  Ville  ,  behind  the  Galleries  to  the  W.,  con- 
tains a  small  museum  illustrating  the  physiology  of  plants  (open  Sun.,  Tues., 
ft  Thura.,  1-4). 

The  Botanic  Oarden  is  divided  into  quadrangular  beds  by  a 
number  of  handsome  avenues.  Many  of  the  trees  and  flowers  now 
common  in  Europe  have  been  introduced  and  naturalised  by  the 
directors  of  the  Jardin  des  Piantes.  Adjoining  the  Menagerie  is  the 
EcoU  ditBotanique^  open  daily  except  Sun.  and  holidays,  6-11  a.m. 
and  1-6  p.  m.  The  red  labels  indicate  the  classes  to  which  the  plants 
belong,  the  yellow  labels  the  families ,  and  other  labels  the  genera 
and  species.  The  edible  herbs  are  denoted  by  green  bands  on  the 
labels  showing  the  species,  medicinal  plants  by  red,  poisonous  plants 
by  black,  those  used  in  the  industrial  arts  by  blue,  and  ornamental 
plants  by  yellow.  At  the  end  next  to  the  quay  are  the  Aquatic  Plants; 
and  the  distribution  of  the  other  plants  is  shown  on  the  accompany- 
ing plan.  Within  the  garden  is  the  EcoU  des  Arbrisseaux  d'Ome- 
ment^  which  contains  the  first  acacia  (^Robinia  pseudacacia')  intro- 
duced into  Europe.  It  was  brought  to  France  by  Robin  in  1601,  and 
planted  here  in  1636.  Lastly,  a  little  farther  to  the  E.,  are  the  nur- 
series of  apples,  pears,  nuts,  and  stone-fruit. 

In  addition  to  the  facilities  it  offers  for  study  on  the  spot,  the  Jardin 
Botanique  distributes  seeds,  plants,  and  specimens  to  educational  estab- 
lishments, to  other  botanical  gardens  and  societies,  and  also  to  students, 
botanists,  artists,  and  workmen. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Jardin  des  Piantes  is  the  Halle  aux  Yins  (open  from 
6  a.m.  to  6  p.m.)  \  and  near  the  S.W.  angle  is  the  large  Edpital  de  la  Fiti4 
(730  beds). 

Ill,  FBOH  THE  JABSIN  SES  PLANTES  TO  THE  GOBELINS. 

The  Gobelins  is  nearly  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Place  Valhubert 
(tramway,  seeAppx.).  We  follow  the  Boul.  de  I'Hdpital,  which  runs 
between  the  Jardin  des  Piantes  and  the  Gare  de  I'Est  (p.  200),  and 
is  80  called  from  the  Hdpital  or  Hospice  de  la  SalpUrikre  on  the  left. 
•This  vast  establishment,  originally  an  ai8eTiai,\>\i\\\.\ii\AW3^%"^XX.^ 
ha3  been  converted  into  an  asylum  ioi  &g^^  wA  Va%^x^^  ^^^rssi's^^ 


268  11.    THE  GOBELINS. 

with  a  department  for  the  treatment  of  neiYOUs  diseases.  It  includes 
45  blocks  of  building,  with  4682  windows  and  3800  beds.  In  firont  . 
is  a  Statue  of  Dr,  Pin«J  (1746-1826),  an  eminent  benefactor  of 
the  insane,  by  Durand,  and  near  the  entrance  is  a  Statue  of  Dr, 
Charcot  (1826-93),  the  nerve-specialist,  by  Falguiftre.  The  first  court 
contains  busts  of  Dr.  Falret  (1807-70)  and  Dr.  Bailtarger  (1809-90). 
The  large  amphitheatre  of  the  institution  contains  a  painting  by 
Rohert-Fleury,  in  which  Dr.  Pinel  is  represented  as  delivering 
the  insane  from  torture. 

The  Boulevard  St.  Marcel  diverges  here  to  the  right ,  passing  a 
Market  for  horses,  carriages,  dogs,  and  bicycles,  and  a  bronze  £^^atti« 
of  Joan  of  Are ^  by  Chatrousse.  We  then  follow  the  Avenue  det  Go- 
belins to  the  left  and  soon  reach  the  manufactory  on  the  right  (No.  42). 

The  Gobelins  may  be  reached  direct  by  the  Omnibus€$  from  Kotre 
Dame-de-Lorette  to  the  Boul.  St.  Marcel  (K)  and  from  the  Place  de  la  B^- 
publique  to  Montsouris  iU)\  and  by  the  Tramwajfs  from  the  Halles  to  the 
Porte  d'lvry  (TQ),  from  the  Ch&telet  to  Vitry,  and  from  Montpamasse  to 
the  Bastille. 

The  Gobelins  (PI.  G,  23) ,  the  state-manufactory  of  the  famous 
tapestry  of  that  name,  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  ancient 
tapestries.  The  manufactory  is  open  to  the  public  on  Wed.  and 
Sat.,  1-3  o'clock.  Director  of  factory  and  museum,.  iL  Guiffrey. 

Tapestry -weaving  was  introduced  into  France  by  Francis  I.,  who 
established  a  factory  at  Fontainebleau,  with  Flemish  workmen.  Henri  IV. 
greatly  fostered  the  industry,  and  about  1601  assembled  in  Paris  a  number 
of  weavers  from  both  Italy  and  the  Xetherlands.  About  16S0  the  manu- 
factory was  installed  in  an  establishment  formerly  occupied  by  the  Oobelin 
family,  an  old-established  firm  of  wool-dyers,  whose  name  has  ever  since 
been  applied  to  the  new  industry;  and  about  the  same  date  a  manu- 
factury  of  carpets  with  Oriental  patterns  was  transferred  to  an  old  soap- 
factory  (Savonnerie)  at  Chaillot.  Louis  XIV.  purchased  the  works  in 
1662  at  Colbert's  instigation,  and  placed  them  under  the  management  of 
Charles  Le  Brun^  the  painter  (d.  1690}  p.  134),  who  was  succeeded  by  P.  Miff- 
nard  (d.  1695).  After  a  brief  interregnum  during  the  Revolution,  the  manu- 
factory was  finally  established  as  a  public  institution  by  Kapoleon  I.  in 
1804.  At  first  (down  to  1695)  not  only  tapestry,  but  embroideries,  furni- 
ture, mosaics,  bronzes,  and  goldsmith's  work  were  produced,  all  being  ex- 
clusively reserved  for  the  decoration  of  the  royal  palaces  or  for  royal  gifts, 
just  as  to-day  the  products  of  the  Gobelins  are  employed  for  public  pur- 
poses only.  The  success  of  the  institution  continued  unbroken  so  long  as 
painters  like  NoSl  Coypel  (d.  1707),  Mich.  Comeille  (d.  1708),  Jean  Jonvenet 
(d.  1717),  /.  B.  Fr,  Betroy  (d.  1752)  and  C.  Van  Loo  (d.  1765)  composed  de- 
corative works  expressly  as  models  for  tapestry.  Under  the  influence, 
however,  of  J.  B.  Oudry  (d.  1756)  and  Fr.  Boucher  (d.  1770),  attempts, 
entirely  out  of  harmony  with  the  true  character  of  the  art  of  tapestry- 
weaving,  were  made  to  represent  all  possible  shades  of  colour  by  means 
of  wools  of  1000  diflferent  hues,  each  in  13  different  shades.  Increasing 
mastery  of  technique  encouraged  the  evil  custom  of  minutely  copying  pictures 
painted  without  any  reference  whatever  to  such  reproduction,  until  finally 
tapestry-weaving  degenerated  into  a  mere  bastard  kind  of  painting.  Quite 
recently  some  efforts  have  been  made  to  retrieve  the  error ,  but  the  good 
oJd  tradition  cannot  hastily  be  regained. 

Tlte loom i  are  o/ the  kind  known  as  *h\gVw w^**  Aooma (.TapUtwia  da  ^a«(« 

/^sej,  in  which  the  warp-threads  ara  vertical,  aa  eomv^x^^  "^^ ''Vsw-^%x\? 

looms  C^apisserie  de  basse  lisse)  in  which  thft  ^atv-^a"^^*  %s^'^tVk^Ti\»\. 

tte»e  the  reverje  aide  of  toe  tapestry   is  iurnei  to-«»«4»  «» -wat^m^  , 


11.   THE  GOBELINS.  269 

with  the  outline  of  the  design  drawn  in  black  crayon  on  the  stretched 
threads.  At  the  workman's  side  are  the  picture  to  he  copied  and  a  basket 
with  wools  of  every  colour  and  shade  (about  14,000  tones  in  all).  The 
wefl-threada  are  inaerted  by  means  of  shuttles  held  in  the  hand.  In  weaving 
the  ^tapis  de  la  Savonnerie'  the  workman  has  the  copy  in  front  of  him 
and  works  on  the  right  side  of  the  tapestry.  The  weft- threads  in  this  case 
are  tied  and  then  cut,  producing  a  velvet  pile.  —  The  number  of  workmen 
(tapiufers  artittes)  now  employed  at  the  Gobelins  is  about  40.  Betrinners 
receive  about  12C0  fr.  per  annum,  skilled  workmen  as  much  as  13300  fr., 
besides  free  dwellings ;  foremen  receive  4000-5000  fr.  Some  families  have 
been  employed  for  generations  in  this  industry.  The  work  requires  the 
utmost  patience  and  the  most  practised  eye.  A  skilful  workman  can  com- 
plete 3  or  even  4  square  yds.  in  a  year ,  but  the  average  annual  task  is 
about  17s  yds.  Many  years  are,  therefore,  sometimes  requisite  for  the 
ezeevtion  of  the  larger  designs,  which  when  complete  are  worth  2C00i. 
and  upwards. 

We  first  yisit  the  Exhibition  Booms,  on  the  left  side  of  the 
court.  (The  former  chapel  at  the  back  of  the  court  contains  repro- 
dnctions  of  two  of  the  Raphael  tapestries,  woven  at  Brussels  in 
1816-19,  of  which  there  are  other  sets  at  Berlin,  Dresden,  and  Rome.) 

The  four  exhibition-rooms  contain  a  collection  of  ancient,  and 
a  few  modern  tapestries,  placed  here  in  1878.  In  1871  the  Com- 
munards burned  a  great  part  of  the  factory  and  about  70  of  the 
most  valuable  tapestries. 

ItT  Boom.  To  the  right:  Crossing  the  Ponte  MoUe  (Raphael),  Abra- 
ham^  saeriiice  (Sim.  Vouet);  Louis  XIV.   receiving  Cardinal  Chigi,   the 

Ctl  lf»i9(LeBrun);  Tar&nne  (LeBmn);  Louis  XIV.  visiting  the  Gobelins 
ofa^ory  (Le  Brun) ;  Players  at  Hiquet',  part  of  a  curtain  by  Gombaut 
and  Ifaetf  (17th  cent.);  Triumph  of  Pallas  (N.  Coypel);  on  an  easel, 
Louis  XIV.  (Bigaud);  Bepast  of  Syphaz  (Giulio  Bomano);  View  of  the  old 
Oh&tean  of  St.  Germain-en-Laye ;  Marriage  of  Alexander  the  Great  (Coypel); 
Autumn  (Lt  Brun);  Ascent  of  Elijah  (Sim.  Vouet);  Herma  (Le  Brun).  Busts 
of  painters;  bronze  statue  of  Colbert,  by  Aubi;  fragments  of  Coptic  ta- 
pestries (lst-6th  cent.),  etc. 

Shd  Boom.  To  the  right:  The  Flemings  demanding  peace  from  Glovis 
(Brussels  tapestry;  17th  cent.);  to  the  left:  Blood-hound  (Oudry).  At  the 
end:  Two  bulls  (F.  Detportes).  Temporarily  here  are  two  tapestries  from 
St.  Bemi  at  Bheims,  one  restored,  the  other  to  be  restored. 

The  Sbd  Boom,  to  the  left  of  the  last,  contains  tapestry  of  the  16-18th 
cent,  from  different  manufactories.  To  the  right :  Calydonian  Boar  (18th  cent.) ; 
Kiss  of  Judas  flGth  cent.);  Louis  XI.  raising  the  sieges  of  Dole  and  Salins 
(Bruges;  1501) :  Miracle  of  the  ^Landit^  fair  (I6th  cent.);  Annunciation, 
Dead  Ohrist ,  Adoration  of  the  Magi  (Flemish) ;  above  the  Christ,  in  the 
middle  of  IJie  room  and  at  the  door ,  Fine  pieces  of  ancient  Persian  tap- 
estry. On  the  other  wall,  four  pieces  of  Flemish  tapestry,  after  Raphael: 
Elymas  struck  with  blindness,  Healing  the  paralytic,  Death  of  Ananias, 
and  Sacrifice  at  Lystra.    Then,  Death  of  Joab  (A.  du  Cereeau). 

4th  Boom  (a^oining  B.  2).  Flora,  of  the  Fontaineblean  school  (?)  of 
the  16lh  eent.;  the  Concert,  French  tapestry  of  the  beginning  of  the  16th 
cent. ;  Grotesque  figures  of  the  Months  (Audran) ;  Aubusson  tapestry  (16th 
cent.) ;  .various  fragments. 

iWe^nextJvisit  the  Wobkshops  (ateliers).     The  works  on  the 
looms  are,  of  course,  liable  to  change  j  visitors  are  therefore  referred 
to  the  inscriptions  for  information.   Go\>e\\iia  i^tq^«i\%t£^^^^'v"^^^ 
arstroom.  The  visitor  who  has  seen  nothiiig  Ajut  i«.^fe^  Q\^^^OC^:«^^ 
tapestry  or  inferior  kindB  will  be  struct  \>^  <Vi^ '^^^^'^'3  ws^Xs^^^" 
ness  of  the  colours  and  the  delicacy  ol  the^  aVvfu^Viv?,. 


270  11.  THE  GOBELINS. 

We  now  trayerse  a  corridor  hung  with  antique  tapestry,  and 
descend  a  staircase  to  another  part  of  the  building,  containing  the 
workshop  of  the  Savonnerie.  Here  we  see  carpets  in  process  of  man- 
ufacture. Also  three  ancient  tapestries :  Turkish  embassy  sent  to 
Louis  XV.  (Parrocel);  Esther's  swoon  (Delroy)\  Don  Quixote  (Ch. 
Coypel). 

We  leave  the  Gohelina  by  a  eourt  to  the  left,  with  the  old  Chapbl, 
containing  17th  cent,  tapestiy  after  paintings  by  Raphael :  lfa?s  of  Bol- 
sena;  Heliodorus  expelled  from  the  Temple.  Alio  some  small  copies  of 
antique  tapestry  and  small  painted  models. 

The  Arenue  des  Gobelins  leads  to  the  S.  to  the  Ptac9  tTIUilie  (PI.  O, 
23),  where  flye  other  boalerards  or  avenues  converge.  In  the  centre  is 
a  fountain.  On  the  V.  side  is  the  Mairie  of  the  13th  Arrondiuement^  built 
in  1867-77.  In  the  Salle  des  Mariages  are  paintings  by  D.  Boulanger.  At 
No.  18  Boul.  d^Italie  is  the  Ecole  Ettienne ,  a  technical  school  connected 
with  the  book-trade.  —  In  the  vicinity,  to  the  8.,  is  the  Artesian  WtU  of 
the  BtUte-avx-Cailles  (PI.  G,  23),  bored  in  1864-98.  It  attains  a  depth  of 
1920  ft.  and  affords  daily  at  least  2,700,000  gaUons  of  excellent  water. 

For  Ivry,  Bieitre^  VilUJuif^  yitry^  and  Choiey-le-Roi^  all  reached  by  the 
tramways  passing  the  Place  d'ltalie,  see  pp.  301  and  966. 

The  Boulevard  Arago,  forming  a  prolongation  of  the  Boulevard  St. 
Marcel  (p.  268),  passes  ttie  jffdpital  de  Lovrcine  or  Broca  (for  skin-diseases 
of  women)  and  the  extensive  Prieon  de  la  Sant^,  a  little  beyond  which  it 
terminates  in  the  Place  Denfert-Bocherean  (p.  2SS).  —  The  Boulevard  de 
Port  Royal,  leaving  the  Avenue  des  Gobelins  to  the  N.  of  the  Boulevard 
Arago,  leads  past  the  Val-de-Grace  (p.  286)  to  the  Carrefonr  de  TObserva- 
toire  (p.  285).  

At  the  N.  end  of  the  Avenue  des  Gobelins  rises  the  chnrch  of 
St.  Midard  (PI.  G,  22;  V),  of  the  15-17th  cent.,  the  burial-gronnd 
of  which  is  now  a  garden,  with  a  figure  of  'Haymaking*  by  Barrao. 
In  the  18th  cent,  it  contained  the  Vonder-working*  tomb  of  the 
Jansenist  deacon  Abb^  Paris  (d.  1727).  Pilgrimages  to  the  tomb  were 
at  length  prohibited  by  Lonis  XY.  in  1732,  which  gave  rise  to  the 
witticism:  — 

*/)«  par  le  Roiy  di fence  it  Dieu, 

De  foire  miraele  en  ee  lieu,^ 

The  unfortunate  son  of  Louis  XYI.  is  said  to  be  also  bnried  here. 

The  Rne  Monge  at  the  back  of  the  church  leads  to  the  Bouletard 
St.  Germain  (tramway),  passing  the  Place  Monge,  in  which  is  a 
bronze  statue  of  Lout*  Blanc  (1811-82),  the  historian  and  socialist, 
by  Delhomme.  In  the  yicinity  are  the  scanty  remains  of  the  Arhnes 
de  LuUcCy  at  the  comer  of  the  Rue  de  Navarre,  to  the  right.  These 
consist  of  a  few  tiers  of  seats  (much  restored)  round  the  arena,  which 
has  been  laid  bare. 

12.  The  Invalides  and  the  Champ-de-Xars. 

The  best  day  for  a  visit  to  the  Invalides  Is  Tues.  or  Thnrs.,  when 

the  tomb  of  Kapoleon  and  the  Museums  are  open  (eomp.  p.  7td).    The 

Mugeama  close  hi  3  or  A.  —  The  Esplanade  des  Invalides,  ihe  Obanp  de 

Jfars,  and  the  qaai  between  them,  were  aXl  covwed  in  iV.00  by  buildings 

connected  with  the  Exhibition. 


12.   FAUBOURG  ST.  GERMAIN.  271 

I.  FBOM  THB  TTIILSBISB  TO  THB  IHYALIDEB. 
Ohambre  deiD^utifl.    Bte.  Olotilde. 

"We  cross  to  the  left  hank  by  the  old  Pont  Boyal,  which  was 
constructed  in  1685  from  plans  by  Gabriel  and  Mansart.  From  the 
bridge  we  obtain  a  good  view  of  the  sculptnres  on  the  Pavilion  de 
Flore  (p.  151).  At  the  S.  end  of  the  bridge  begins  the  Rub  du  Bac 
(PI.  R,  17,  16 ;  IV),  which  traverses  the  Faubonrg  St.  Germain, 
the  aristocratic  quarter,  where  the  principal  streets  are  the  Rue  de 
Lille,  Rue  de  Verneuil ,  Rue  de  I'Universit^,  Rue  St.  Dominique, 
Rue  de  Grenelle,  and  Rue  de  Yarenne,  all  running  parallel  to  the 
Seine.  Most  of  the  houses  in  these  streets  are  private  mansions,  and 
the  quarter  presents  a  dull  and  deserted  appearance,  especially  in 
summer  and  on  Sundays  and  holidays.  Among  the  public  edifices 
here  are  several  embassies  and  government  offices,  etc. 

In  the  Rue  da  Bac,  to  tbe  left,  is  the  Pttit  St.  Thomas  fp.  40),  with 
an  atiractiye  facade.  Beyond,  in  a  small  square,  rises  the  church  of 
Bt.  Thomas  d'Aquin  (PI.  E,  17;  /F),  erected  in  1682-1740.  The  portal  was 
not  completed  till  1787.  The  interior  contains  some  interesting  frescoes 
and  other  paintiDgs. 

At  the  intersection  of  the  Bue  du  Bac  and  Boul.  St.  Germain  is  a 
bronze  statue,  by  Dam^,  of  Chappe  (1763-1806),  inventor  of  the  aerial 
telegraph. 

The  Bue  du  Bac  then  crosses  the  Boul.  St.  Germain  and  the  Rue  de 
OrenelUy  in  which,  to  the  left,  rises  the  Fontaine  de  Grenelle  (PI.  R,  17; 
/F))  erected  in  1738  from  designs  by  Bovehardon  (d.  1762).  It  consists  of 
a  crescent  31  yds.  in  diameter  and  38  ft.  in  height.  In  the  centre  is  a 
small  lonle  portico,  adorned  with  an  allegorical  group  in  white  marble 
representing  the  City  of  Paris  with  the  Seine  and  the  Marne.  In  niches 
at  the  sides,  are  statues  of  the  Seasons  with  appropriate  reliefs. 

year  the  S.  end  of  the  Hue  du  Bac,  on  the  right,  is  the  Seminaire 
dea  Kiaaiona  Btrangirea  (PI.  R,  16*,  /F),  for  the  training  of  Roman  Catho- 
lic missionaries.  A  melancholy  sight  is  afforded  here  by  the  Chambre  de* 
Martyrs  (shown  during  the  vacations,  except  Wed.,  from  1  to  4  or  5,  and 
on  Sun.  and  holidays  from  1  to  2.30),  which  contains  numerous  instru- 
ments, especially  from  China,  used  in  torturing  and  killing  Christian 
martyrs,  blood-stained  clothes  of  missionaries,  and  other  relics. 

Farther  on,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  du  Bac  and  the-  Rue  de  Sevres, 
are  the  extensive  magazines  of  the  Bon-Mareh4  (p.  39),  which  also  look 
into  the  Rue  de  Babylone  and  the  Square  de*  Manage*  (so  called  after  an 
old  hospice  of  that  name) ,  with  a  marble  group  of  Sleep  by  M.  Moreau. 
The  Bon-March^  has  about  4000  employees.  Parties  of  visitors  are  con- 
ducted over  tbe  establishment  at  3.30  p.m. 

Farther  on  in  the  Rue  de  Sevres  (to  tbe  W.)  are  tbe  H6pital  Lalnnee^ 
the  Siek  Children'*  Ho*pital^  the  H6piial  Neeker,  the  BUnd  Atylum^  and  the 
Avenue  de  Breteuil,  with  its  Artesian  Well  (p.  281). 

On  the  Qua!  d'Orsay,  between  the  Pont  Royal  and  the  Pont  Solfe- 
rino,  rises  the  recently  completed  Oare  d'OrUans  (PI.  R,  17;  //)> 
which  is  connected  (mainly  by  a  tunnel)  with  the  former  terminus 
of  that  name  (p.  26)  near  the  Jardin  des  Plantes  (p.  264),  a  distance 
of  11/4  M. 

Lower  down  the  river,  near  the  Pont  de  Solf^rino,  rises  the 
tasteful  Palais  de  la  Ligion  d'Honneur  (PI.  R,  17 ;  /i),  erected  in 
1786  by  Prince  Salm-Kyrburg,  and  intereatia^  aa^<&%^«^^  ^1^\a&. 
de  Stael's  rSuniouB  dmiiig  the  Diiectoi7. 


272  12.    OHAMBRE  DES  DfiPUTifiS. 

The  adjoining  Font  de  Solf^rino  was  oonstiucted  in  1858-59. 
The  large  and  low  square  tower  in  the  Boul.  St.  Germain,  at  the  end 
of  the  Rue  de  Solftfrino,  belongs  to  the  Miniature  de  la  Ouerre^ 
Lower  down  the  river,  on  the  Qual  d'Orsay,  at  the  end  of  the  Boul. 
St.  Germain  (p.  270),  and  opposite  the  Place  and  the  Pont  de  la 
Concorde  (p.  83),  rises  the  — 

Chambre  des  Diputis  (PI.  B,  14 ;  /i),  otherwise  known  as  the 
Palais  du  Corps  LSgialatif  or  Palais  JBourbon,  which  was  begun  in 
1722  by  Oirardini  for  the  dowager  Duchess  of  Bourbon.  The  Prince 
de  Oond^  afterwards  expended  about  16  million  francs  on  the 
building,  which  in  1790  was  declared  national  property.  After 
having  been  used  for  various  purposes,  it  was  set  apart  for  the  sit- 
tings of  the  Council  of  Five  Hundred,  and  afterwards  for  those  of 
the  Corps  L^gislatlf  or  Chamber  of  Deputies,  which  has  581  members. 

The  original  facade  is  on  the  side  farthest  from  the  Seine.  The 
little  square  in  front  of  it  is  embellished  with  a  marble  statue  of 
*Law*,  by  Feuchhres  (1855).  The  facade  towards  the  river,  built  by 
Poyet  in  1804-7,  is  in  the  style  of  a  Greek  temple,  with  a  handsome 
Corinthian  colonnade  of  twelve  columns.  To  the  right  and  left  of 
the  flight  of  steps  are  placed  statues  of  Themis  and  Minerva,  and  on 
massive  pedestals  in  firont  are  seated  figures  of  D'Aguessean,  Colbert, 
L'H6pital,  and  Sully.  On  each  side  of  the  portico  are  reliefs  by 
Rude  and  Pradier  (Liberal  Arts  and  Public  Education),  and  in  the 
tympanum  a  group  by  Cortotj  which  represents  France  with  the 
constitution,  between  Liberty  and  Order,  summoning  Commerce, 
Agriculture,  and  Peace  to  her  aid. 

Intbsiob.  When  the  Chamber  is  sitting  visitors  are  admitted  only 
to  the  Salle  des  Stances,  for  which  they  require  a  ticket  from  the  'se- 
cretaire de  la  questure*.  to  whom  application  should  be  made  by  letter 
or  through  an  ambassador.  At  other  times  the  building  is  open  to  the 
public  from  9  to  5.  The  public  entrance  (before  2  p.m.)  during  the  sittings 
is  in  the  small  building  to  the  right  of  the  grand  staircase  which  ascends 
from  the  quay.  Visitors  at  other  times  apply  to  the  left  in  the  court 
behind,  entered  from  the  Rue  de  rUniversit^ ;  they  are  escorted  by  an 
attendant  (fee).  The  Salle  dbs  Pas-Pe&dus  has  a  ceiling-paintiog  (Peace) 
by  Horace  Vernet.  —  The  Sallb  dbs  S^ancbs,  or  Au&nMjf  Hatt,  is  semi- 
circular in  form,  and  is  borne  by  twenty  marble  columns,  behind  which 
are  the  public  galleries.  The  hall  is  embellished  with  a  reproduction  in 
tapestry  of  Baphaers  School  of  Athens,  and  with  marble  statnes  of  Li- 
berty and  Public  Order,  by  Pradier.  —  The  Sallb  des  CoNFfiBSNCKS  con- 
tains a  ceiling-painting  by  Heim^  representing  the  history  of  legislation  in 
France,  and  several  pictures :  President  Mole  arrested  during  the  Fronde, 
by  Vincent ;  Opening  of  the  States  General  by  Philippe  le  Bel,  by  Vinchon; 
♦Self-sacrifice  of  the  burghers  of  Calais,  by  Ary  Sekeffer,  —  The  Libbabt  is 
adorned  with  ceiling-paintings  by  Eag.  Delacroix  (in  the  cupolas,  Poesy, 
Theology,  Legislation,  Philosophy,  and  the  Exact  Sciences  i  in  the  lunettes 
at  the  ends,  Attila  and  Orpheus).  In  the  Salle  des  Disteibotions  are  scenes 
in  grisaille  by  Abel  de  Pujol.  The  Sallb  Casimir-PAbibb  is  embellished 
with  statnes  of  Mirabeau  and  Bailly  by  Jaky.  P^rier  by  Z>ure<,  and  General 
Foy  by  D^prez.  and  bas-reliefs  by  Triqveti  and  Dalou.  The  Sallb  do  Tbone 
contains  paintings  of  Justice,  War,  Industry,  Agriculture,  and  the  Seas 
and  Rivers  of  France,  by  JEuff,  Delacroic, 

The  residence  of  the  president  of  the  CJhambei  \%  \.o  W^  t\^\  q1  tlie 


I'i.    STE.  CLOTILDE.  273 

building.  Adjacent  to  it,  and  facing  the  quay,  is  the  Ministkre  des  Af- 
faires Etrangerea  (PI.  R,  14  j  II),  a  handsome  edifice  built  in  1845  by 
Lacorn^e  and  restored  since  Itttl.  Immediately  beyond  this  build- 
ing is  the  Esplanade  des  Invalides  (see  below).  —  We  now  retrace 
our  steps,  pass  the  Ohambie  des  D^put^s,  and  follow  a  street  to  the 
right,  skirting  the  E.  side  of  the  building.  A  little  farther  to  the 
S.  we  follow  the  Rue  St.  Dominique  to  the  left  and  soon  reach  — 

•8te.  Clotilde  (PI.  R,  14;  IV),  one  of  the  finest  modem 
churches  in  Paris,  erected  in  1846-59  by  Oau  and  Ballu  in  the 
Gothic  style  of  the  14th  century.  The  facade  consists  of  three  por- 
tals, richly  sculptured,  and  flanked  with  two  towers,  which  terminate 
in  slender  spires,  rising  to  a  height  of  216  ft. 

The  Imtbbiob  is  simple  and  dignified,  being  decorated  with  marble 
reliefs  only.  Magnificent  stained-glass  windows.  The  two  small  chapels 
of  the  aisles  are  adorned  with  paintings  by  Deldborde.  Under  the  windows 
of  the  aisles  and  in  the  transept  are  bas-reliefs  by  Duret  and  Pradier, 
forming  a  ^Chemin  de  la  Groix\  —  The  chapel  of  Ste.  Val^re,  the  martyr 
of  Limousin,  to  whom  a  church  was  once  dedicated  on  this  site,  is  in 
the  right  (W.)  transept.  It  contains  scenes  from  her  history  by  Lenepveu. 
The  choir- screen  is  adorned  with  bas-reliefs  by  Gwllaume,  two  on  the 
right  representing  Ste.  Val^re,  and  two  on  the  left  Ste.  Clotilde.  —  The 
choii^chapels  are  embellished  with  mural  paintings:  1st  on  the  right  (St. 
Remi),  by  Pili  and  Laemlein;  2nd  (St.  Joseph),  hy  Bezard\  3rd  (Virgin), 
by  Lenepveu  \  4th  (Ste.  Croix),  by  Briitet-^  5th  (St.  Louis),  by  Bougueveau. 
—  In  the  left  transept  are  two  large  compositions  by  Laugie :  St.  Clotilde 
succouring  the  poor,  and  the  Baptism  of  Clovis.  —  The  carved  choir-stalls 
and  the  high-altar,  which  is  enriched  and  inlaid  in  the  medieeval  style, 
also  deseire  inspection.  —  The  grand  organ  is  by  GaTaill^-CoU,  and  the 
electric  organ  in  the  choir  by  Merklin. 

The  square  in  front  of  the  church  is  adorned  with  a  handsome 
group  in  marble,  by  Delaplanche,  representing  Maternal  Instruction. 

To  the  right  a?  we  quit  Ste.  Clotilde  runs  the  Rue  Las-Cases,  Xo.  5  in 
which,  near  the  other  end,  contains  the  Musee  Social,  founded  by  the  Comte 
de  Ghambrun  (adm.  daily,  except  Sun.,  9-12  &2-6).  The  object  of  the  in- 
stitution is  to  place  at  the  gratuitous  disposition  of  the  public,  document^, 
models,  plans,  rules,  constitutions,  etc.,  of  social  institutions  intended  to 
ameliorate  the  position  of  the  working  classes.  Lectures  are  often  delivered 
here,  and  there  are  special  meetings  also. 

The  Rue  de  Crenelle  passes  near  the  back  of  Ste.  Clotilde,  and 
leads  thence  to  the  W.  in  a  few  minutes  to  the  Invalides. 

II.  H6T£L  ses  inyalises. 
Hua^e  d'Artillerie.    Eglise  dea  Invalides.    Tomb  of  Napoleon  I. 

The  HdxEL  des  Invalides  is  shown  12-4  on  week-days,  9-1  on  Sun. 
(no  admission  to  the  dormitories,  kitchens,  or  refectories);  the  Muskums 
are  open  to  the  public  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sun.,  12-4  (in  winter  till  3), 
and  the  Empebob's  Tomb  on  Hon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Frid.,  and  Sun.,  12-4. 
Uo  fees.  —  The  Hdtel  des  Invalides  may  be  reached  by  means  of  the  omni- 
buses from  the  Porte  St.  Martin  to  Grenelle  ( V),  from  the  Quai  de  Valmy 
to  the  Porte  Rapp  (A  D),  and  from  the  Gare  St.  Lazare  to  Grenelle  (A  U). 
The  omnibuses  traversing  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  the  tramways  on  both 
banks,  and  the  river-steamers  also  pass  near  the  Hotel. 

The  handsome  Esplanade  des  Invalides  (P\.B..,i4.\  ll^W^^-Js^'ssiJ^. 
560  yds.  in  length,  and  270  yds.  in  mdt\i,  em\j^\\\€^^^ VVOsv  %^^«vs^ 
BABDBKBn.    Paris.    iAih  Edit.  V^ 


274  12.    HOTEL  DES  INVALIDES. 

rows  of  trees,  lies  between  the  Seine  and  the  H6tel  des  Invalides. 
The  new  Pont  Alexandre  III  (p.  165)  places  it  in  direct  communica- 
tion with  the  Champs-Elysees.  On  both  sides  of  the  esplanade,  near 
the  bridge,  is  the  new  Gare  des  Jnoalides,  the  terminus  of  the  rail- 
way from  St.  Cloud  (*Ligne  des  Moulineaux')  along  the  bank  of  the 
Seine,  which  is  to  be  connected  with  the  new  Gare  d'OrMans  (p.  271). 
The  Esplanade  is  included  iu  the  grounds  of  the  Exhibition  of 
1900.  —  In  the  grounds  to  the  left  of  the  open  space  in  front  of 
the  Hotel  des  Invalides  is  a  bronze  statue  of  a  wounded  warrior 
repairing  his  sword,  by  Chretien. 

The  H6tel  des  Invalides  (PI.  R,  14;  /F),  with  its  conspicuous 
gilded  dome,  a  vast  establishment  occupying  an  area  of  about  30 
acres,  was  founded  in  1670  by  Louis  XIV. ,  *pour  assurer  nne 
existence  heureuse  aux  militaires  qui,  vielllards  mutil^s  ou  inflrmes, 
se  trouveraient  sans  ressources  apr^s  avoir  blanchi  sous  les  drapeaux 
ou  vers^  leur  sang  pour  la  patrie'.  The  building  was  begun  in  1671 
by  Libiral  Bruantj  and  completed  in  1675  by  Manaart.  The  estab* 
lishment  was  intended  to  accommodate  7000  inmates,  but  there  are 
now  less  than  175,  and  the  number  is  decreasing,  as  only  soldiers 
absolutely  incapacitated  for  work  are  now  admitted.  Parts  of  the 
building  have  been  devoted  to  other  purposes;  and  in  1898  the  head- 
quarters of  the  governor  of  Paris  were  transferred  hither. 

A  railing  separates  the  Place  from  the  outer  court  of  the  Invalides, 
which  is  now  a  garden  enclosed  on  three  sides  by  a  dry  moat. 

The  guides  who  assail  visitors  at  the  entrances  to  the  Hdtel  des  In- 
valides are  unnecessary.  They  are  quite  unofficial,  in  spite  of  their  mil- 
itary-looking caps. 

A  'Batterie  Triomphale'  placed  behind  the  moat  is  used  in  firing 
salutes  on  grand  occasions. 

It  consists  of  eight  guns  and  a  mortar  on  each  side,  besides  which  there 
are  several  unmounted  pieces  on  each  side,  including  16  Algerian  cannons 
with  Arabic  inscriptions,  a  Cochin-Chinese,  and  two  Chinese  cannons.  —  On 
the  right,  as  we  face  the  oeine,  are  two  Austrian  cannons,  one  cast  at  Vienna 
in  1681,  the  other  in  1580,  with  the  inscription  in  German,  *  When  my  song 
retounds  in  the  air,  many  a  wall  will  fall  be/ore  me'';  four  Prussian  guns, 
cast  at  Berlin  in  1708,  captured  there  by  the  Austrians  in  1757,  and 
brought  by  Kapoleon  from  Vienna  after  the  Battle  of  Austerlits  along 
with  2333  other  cannon^  a  Dutch  piece,  captured  at  the  siege  of  Antwerp 
in  1832;  a  rifled  cannon  from  Sebastopol;  a  mortar  from  Algiers.  —  On 
the  left:  a  long  swivel-gun  from  Wurtemberg,  a  masterpiece  of  its  kind, 
decorated  with  a  sejpept  apd  allegorical  figures*,  a  Venetian  piece,  of 
1708;  the  remaining  pieces  correspond  to  those  on  the  right  side. 

The  garden  is  adorned  with  a  Statue  of  Prince  Eughne  de  Beau- 
hamais  (1781-1824),  in  bronze,  by  Dumont. 

The  Facade  of  this  vast  edifice  is  about  220  yds.  in  length.   The 

three  stones  are  surmounted  with  trophies  in  stone.  At  the  principal 

entrance  are  an  equestrian  figure  of  Louis  XIV.  in  bas-relief^  and 

statues  of  Mars  and  Minerva,  in  bronze,  «A\\)^  Cou%lou^XoMmQ«t, 

/o  front  of  the  winga  are  placed  four  gioupa  m\>TOivi«k>^I>e*ia!td.Vu&, 

^^blematical  of  four  conquered  nations,  TYie^  lQim«i\i\i€iQTi%'i^^\ft 


Esttilanacle  des  IiivalUles 


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sk' 


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]i  d'AngoAL- 


12.    MUS^E  D'ARTILLERIE.  275 

the  statue  of  Louis  XIV.  in  the  Place  des  Victoires  (p.  193j,  but  were 
brought  here  in  1800. 

The  building  is  open  to  visitOTs  daily;  but  there  is  little  to  see 
beyond  the  external  decorations,  the  church,  and  the  museums. 

The  Cour  d^Honneur,  the  first  court,  is  enclosed  with  arcades, 
parts  of  which  are  adorned  with  paintings  by  B,  Masson,  representing 
scenes  from  the  epochs  of  Charlemagne,  St.  Louis,  Louis  XIV., 
and  Napoleon  I.  Opposite  the  entrance  is  the  church  (p.  279) ;  on 
the  right  the  Mus^e  d'Artillerie ;  on  the  left,  tlie  Mus^e  de  1' Arm^e 
(p.  279). 

The  *Hu8ie  d'Artillerie  (admission,  see  p.  273)  occupies  a 
considerable  part  of  the  W.  wing  of  the  building.  This  interesting 
collection  consists  of  10,000  specimens  of  weapons  of  all  kinds,  both 
ancient  and  modern.    Sticks  and  umbrellas  need  not  be  given  up. 

The  Catalogue  (by  L.  Robert  ^  1889-95)  is  in  6  vols. :  1  (A-F),  Nucleus 
of  the  musenm,  antique  arms,  75  c.;  2  (G-I),  Defensive  armour,  helmets, 
shields,  Ifr.  ;3(J-L),  Arms  of  offence,  steel  weapons,  etc.,  IV4  fr.  ^  4  (M) 
Portable  firearms,  IV4  fr. ;  5  (N-P),  Artillery  and  miscellaneous  objects,  75  c. 
Appendix  by  F.  Betfutdac^  the  present  director,  £0  c.  —  Explanatory  labels 
are  attached  to  the  exhibits. 

The  Ist  Oalerie  des  Armures,  to  the  right  of  the  main  entrance, 
is  decorated,  like  the  following  room,  with  mural  paintings  of  mil- 
itary subjects  contemporaneous  with  the  founding  of  the  H6tel.  To 
the  right  is  a  collection  of  armour  and  weapons  of  the  15-17th  cen- 
turies. Opposite:  G.  178-180.  Italian  armour  for  combats  in  the 
lists  •  the  suit  in  the  middle  belonged  to  one  of  the  Medici  family ; 
German  jousting  armour,  including  a  suit  'a  tonne'  for  fighting  on 
foot.  On  the  right  side  are  historical  suits  of  armour  and  eleven 
suits  of  German  workmanship  (early  16th  cent.),  known  as  'Maxi- 
miliennes\  At  the  end  of  the  saloon  is  a  model  of  the  Chateau  of 
Pierrefonds.  Behind,  portraits  of  General  Lariboisi^re  (d.  1812) 
and  his  son,  by  Oros.  In  the  middle,  as  we  return,  juvenile  armour. 
—  Then  firearms,  steel  weapons ,  shields,  helmets,  etc.  Some  of 
these  are  beautifully  ornamented  with  precious  stones,  ivory,  re- 
pousse work,  engraving,  chasing,  inlaid  work,  damascening,  etc. 

Case  I.  M  37.  Arquebnss  belonging  to  Richelieu;  M  1648.  German 
pistol  (17th  cent  );  M70.  Wheel-lock  arqnebuss.  —  Cask  II.  •M640  and  1752. 
Rifle  and  pistols  made  at  Rotterdam  by  command  of  Napoleon  I.  for  the 
Shereef  of  Morocco;  M2262.  Greek  pistol  belonging  to  General  M.  Botzaris 
(d.  1823);  M 1781, 1713.  Valuable  pistols  of  the  18-19th  centuries.  —  Case  III. 
Swords  and  sabre  (late  16th  cent.);  G246.  Gorget  (17th  cent.);  German 
firearms  (16-17th  cent.);  M63.  French  arqnebuss  (16th  cent);  159.  Italian 
gala  shield,  with  the  Triumph  of  Galatea,  after  Raphael  (16th  cent.).  — 
Case  IV.  L66.  Flemish  or  German  cross-bow  adorned  with  ivory  carvings 
(ca.  1500);  gala  shields  and  Italian  shields  of  the  16th  cent.  (Nos.  ♦!  77, 
*1 82) ;  G  599.  Jousting  chanfron  (end  of  the  16th  cent).  —  Case  V.  M  85. 
Matchlock  musket  (1629);  J  233  and  240.  Spanish  rapiers:  M  82.  Wheel- 
lock  arquebups  (l6-17th  cent.);  G608.  Nose-band  of  a  German  bridle  (16th 
cent);  H50  and  (on  the  other  side)  H51.  Jousting  helmets  ('Maximilian' 
style);  H263.  German  gala  helmet  (17th  cent.);  H  114.  Chased  and  gilded 
helmet  (16th  cent);  G93.  Armour  of  the  ewl-j  11\.\s.  ^«tt\,v  ^^^^^S&. 
Wheel-lock  musket  and  arquebuss  (GermanV  —  Ck%i&N\.  ^S5I"V  A^*^^*^^^^* 


276  12.    MUSfiE  D'ARTILLERIE. 

German  wheel-lock  petronel  and  pistols  (16-lTtli  cent.)t  M  362.  German 
cross-bow  '•k  pied-de-biche^  (t.<.  with  bntt  shaped  like  a  deer^s  hoof); 
G  597  and  (at  the  back)  *G  593.  Cbanfrons,  the  latter  formerly  in  the  pos- 
session of  Philip  II.  of  Spain.  —  Case  VII.  Fine  French,  Italian,  and 
Spanish  swords  (iQ-ilth  cent.).  —  Case  VIII.  J  26.  Sword  of  the  CJonstable 
of  France  (end  of  the  15th  cent.);  M2135,  2136.  German  cartridge-boxes 
(late  16th  cent.).  —  Cases  IX-X.  Daggers*,  hunting  weapons;  sets  of  in- 
struments. 

Above  and  against  the  walls  are  French  flags  and  standards, 
originals  to  the  right,  copies  to  the  left.  The  second  on  the  left  Is 
the  red  Oriflamme  of  St.  Denis ;  the  ninth  Is  the  white  standard  of 
Joan  of  Ar<^,  enriched  with  fleurs-de-lys.  Also,  cross-bows  and 
thrusting  weapons. 

The  2nd  Oalerie  dea  Armurea  contains  a  splendid  collection  of 
armour  worn  by  horsemen  and  foot-soldiers,  chiefly  of  the  15th  and 
16th  centuries.  In  the  glass-cases  are  pieces  of  armour  and  steel 
weapons  and  firearms  of  greater  Interest  than  those  In  the  other 
gallery.  —  In  the  centre,  among  other  suits  of  armour:  in  the  second 
row,  *G  38.  German  suit  (16th  cent.);  *Q  166.  Joustlng-armour  of 
Maximilian  I.;  G  40.  Suit  of  a  prince  of  Bavaria  (1533);  G717. 
Saracen  suit  of  the  16th  cent. ;  G  41.  Another  Bavarian  suit;  ♦G  117. 
Armour  of  Francis  I. ;  G  52  and  53  (at  the  sides),  German  armour 
of  the  16th  cent. ;  ♦G  118-125.  Armour  of  the  kings  of  France  from 
Henri  II.  to  Louis  XIV.;  G  196.  Juvenile  suit  of  Louis  XVI.  (?); 
G  197.  Suit  of  the  Duke  of  Burgundy,  grandson  of  Louis  XIV. 

Case  I.  'J  376-385.  Swords  of  Francis  I. ,  Henri  II.,  Charles  IX., 
Henri  IV.  (379,  380.  Marriage-swords),  Louis  XIII.,  Louis  XIV.  (382,  383), 
Louis  XVI.  (coronation-sword),  and  the  Dauphin  Louis  XVII.;  H  143  and 
193.  Burgonet,  helmet,  andbrassarts  of  Henri  II.;  0249.  Gorget  of  Louis  XIIL; 
H  280.  Juvenile  helmet  of  Louis  XIV. ;  K  50.  Mace  of  Henri  II. ;  L  115. 
Cross-bow  of  Catherine  de  M^dicis ;  Or  667,  515,  4'^.  Spurs,  stirrups,  and 
gauntlets  of  Louis  XIV. ;  M  95,  86,  96.  Muskets  of  Louis  XIII. ;  M  410.  Musket 
of  Louis  XIV.  —  Cases  II-IV.  "H  257.  Helmet  in  the  antique  style  (*a  la 
chimfere*) ;  H  253 ,  155,  Italian  helmets  of  the  16th  century.  —  Case  V. 
'*G51.  Italian  armour  of  the  16th  cent.,  enriched  with  bas-reliefs  of  ad- 
mirable composition  and  execution t  ^I  62.  Italian  buckler;  *H254.  Italian 
helmet  in  the  antique  style ;  ^J  95-97.  Italian  swords  (16th  cent.) ;  *G  60. 
Italian  armour,  known  as  the  ^armure  aux  lions'  (16th  cent.).  —  Case  VI. 
"H  184.  Italian  morion;  other  Italian  helmets  of  the  16th  cent.;  G239. 
Gorget  of  the  time  of  Henri  IV. ;  I  7.  Bound  shield  of  Matthew  Corvinus, 
King  of  Hungary  (d.  1490) ;  K  68,  56.  Maces  (16th  cent.) ;  «J  112, 74,  111.  Italian 
shoulder-belts  and  girdle  (16th  cent.);  J  119.  Sabre  of  Stephen  Bathory, 
King  of  Poland  (d.  1686);  K49,  47.  Maces;  *G  609.  Nose-band  of  a  bridle 
(1567).  —  Case  Vn.  Italian  helmets  uf  the  16th  cent. ,  including  *H  149. 
Burgonet  and  «H  251.  Helmet;  H  261.  Polish  helmet ;  P675.  Hunting-horn 
(12th  cent.);  P  567.  Thumb-screws  of  the  16th  cent.;  J  390.  Sabre  of  Stan. 
Poniatowski  (?  d.  1762);  J  389.  Sword  of  Charles  XII.  (d.  1718);  186.  Ju- 
venile shield  of  the  Duke  of  Burgundy,  grandson  of  Louis  XIV. ;  M  367, 
359.  Wheel -lock  muskets  (German;  l6th  cent.).  — *  Case  Vill.  Italian 
helmets  and  buckler  (I  63)  of  the  16th  cent.;  powder-flasks,  cartridge-boxes, 
etc. ;  mace;  German  pistols,  with  the  butts  ending  in  balls ;  German  muskets. 

Round  the  room,  in  chronological  order,  are  arranged  specimens 

of  armouT  from  the  middle  of  the  15th  cent,  to  the  middle  of  the 

I7t/i,  ir2i67i  «toei  was  superseded  hy  huff-coats.  Ahove,  on  the  walls, 

are  foreign  Hags.   Between  the  suits  ot  atmowT  oiv\V^\^\\.%\dL^%xe 


12.   MUS^E  D'ARTILLERIE.  277 

specimens  of  thrusting-weapons,  such  as  halberds  (K272,  etc.), 
partisans  (K  378,  etc.) ,  spontoons  (K  596,  597).  Also  steel  wea- 
pons and  panoplies.  —  A  Boom  on  the  Right  contains  numerous 
helmets  and  bucklers,  ooats-of-mail,  boots,  etc. 

A  door  at  the  end  of  the  Salle  des  Armuies  leads  into  a  passage, 
beyond  -which  are  the  four  looms  of  the  *  Ethnographical  OaUery,  an 
interesting  collection  of  78  wax  and  wooden  figures  of  savages  in 
their  war-costumes. 

Returning  to  the  yestibule,  we  follow  the  Corridor ^  to  the  left, 
passing  the  staircase  to  the  second  floor  (p.  278)  and  the  entrance 
to  the  courts  (p.  278),  and  enter  the  — 

8dUe  (hientale,  let  Section:  in  the  middle,  to  the  right  and  left, 
steel  weapons  (J  1273,  Chinese  sabre)  and  firearms  (M  2182,  2183, 
to  the  left,  Turkish  rifles).  By  the  windows  are  more  steel  weapons ; 
on  the  walls  are  firearms.  On  the  wall  to  the  right  as  we  enter  is  a 
rich  sabre  captured  at  Hu^  (Annam)  in  1885. 

2nd  Section.  Rich  Oriental  saddles,  captured  in  Egypt  by  Napo- 
leon I.  Continuation  of  weapons. 

Gasb  to  thx  Bioht.  H  445,  460.  Helmets  of  Ba^azet  II.  (d.  1512)  and 
Mongolian  helmet;  J 1285.    Cingalese  sabre;   J120U,   1198,   1201.    Indian 

{toignards ;  J 1288,  1287.  Javanese  swords ;  J  1176,  1180,  1178.  Swords  of 
ndian  Mahommedana;  J 1248,  1249.  Malay  creeses ;  M  2349.  Gilt  powder- 
flask  with  gems  (17th  cent.);  bows  and  quivers.  —  Case  to  the  Left. 
H  452,  451.  Tartar  and  Russian  helmets  (16th  cent.);  J  1215,  etc.  Hindoo 
khuttars;  J  1048.  Equipment  of  the  grand-master  of  the  seraglio;  J  1067, 
1066.  Khaniars  from  the  Balkans;  J  1178.  Sabre  of  Indian  Mahommedan ; 
J  1205.  Indian  poignard. 

By  the  pilasters :  to  the  left,  Arab  rifles ;  to  the  right,  Chinese 
and  Japanese  sabres ;  Japanese  helmets. 

3rd  Section.  Two  Oriental  saddles.  Glass  Case  to  the  right: 
Models  of  Japanese  armour.  Glass  Case  to  the  left :  Turkish  rifles. 
G  738.  Persian  cuirass  (16th  cent.) ;  H  466.  Circassian  cuirass.  Case 
at  the  end :  *G  749.  War-costume  of  an  emperor  of  China,  captured 
in  the  summer-palace  during  the  expedition  of  1860 ;  K  1158,  1159, 
948,  949.  Commander  s  batons,  battle-axe,  and  a  kind  of  halberd, 
also  from  China.  At  the  sides,  Japanese  armour. 

lit  Qalme  des  Armes  Blanches  et  Armes  h  Feu,  to  the  right  of 
the  preceding.  Weapons  with  wooden  shafts,  a  collection  of  steel 
weapons  from  the  12th,  and  of  firearms  from  tbe  15th  cent.,  down 
to  the  present  day.  The  most  interesting  objects  are  in  glass-cases. 
To  the  left:  firearms  of  the  earliest  types;  saddles  of  the  15-16th 
cent. ;  portions  of  harness.  Against  the  wall  of  the  entrance  is  a 
cabinet  with  specimens  of  French  orders,  military  rewards,  and 
marshals'  batons. 

Cases  with  Thbdstino  Weapons  (E).  Partisans  (495,  etc.),  spontoons 
(567,  etc.);  22.  Battle-hammer  (15th  cent.) ;  spears,  including  two  with  pistols 
(669,  668);  84.  BatUe-axe  of  Edward  IV.  of  England  (d.  1483);  halberds, 
including  a  Qerman  specimen  with  two  pistols  (262);  126.  Italian  halberd; 
607,  608.  Lintstocks.  —  Next  this  case :  M  1,  2.  FiteaTm%  c^i  V\vtfe  ^^xXvy^x 
kind,  known  as  *scopettes\  —  Cases  wite  ¥ib£as.u%  VJ^-^.  ^.^\Si.»ti,  "^"^X's>s^- 
lock  mnsketa  andpetronel;  417.  I^rge  wliee\Aoc\L  mxi&YfcV  ^«t\v».^^  ot^'t.^v^ 


278  12.   MUS^E  D^ABTILLERIE. 

the  possession  of  James  II.  of  England);  953.  German  arquebuss  witb  8nu£f- 
box  (16th  cent.);  then  wheel-lock  arquebusses,  remarkable  for  their  work- 
manship, chiefly  German;  those  in  the  upper  row  are  mainly  hunting-weap- 
ons, of  the  kind  known  as  ''k  pied-de-biche'  (p.  276). 

2nd  Oalerie  des  Armea  Blanches  ei  Armet  h  Feu,  beyoud  the  Salle 
Orientale.  This  gallery  contains  pistols,  modern  rifles,  and  other 
firearms,  besides  a  collection  of  cross-bows,  some  armour,  and  an- 
cient thrusting  weapons.  At  the  end  are  modern  helmets  and 
military  headdresses.  On  the  left  side  are  prehistoric  weapons  (some 
casts  and  imitations);  on  the  right  side  are  ancient  weapons,  originals 
and  models. 

RiGUT  Wall,  near  the  entrance:  ^grenadiers'  used  in  the  18th  cent,  for 
throwing  grenades;  rifles  of  the  same  period;  revolving  rifles  (H431. 
dating  from  the  17th  cent.);  siege-rifles.  —  Gases  by  the  Partition.  Dress- 
pistols  of  the  16-18th  cent.,  those  with  the  butt  ending  in  a  ball  are  nearly 
all  German:  then  ornamental  rifles  of  the  16-19th  cent.,  less  interesting 
than  those  m  the  other  gallery. 

The  breech-loading  weapons  are  in  the  left  section  of  the  gallery, 
by  the  partition;  and  between  the  windows  on  the  same  side  is  part 
of  the  collection  of  modern  foreign  weapons.  At  the  end,  specimens 
of  helmets  and  shakos. 

Last  Room,  at  the  end,  to  the  left.  Drums,  kettle-drums,  sappers' 
axes,  etc;  ornamental  saddles  and  weapons;  honorary  weapons,  and 
weapons  of  historic  interest;  marshals'  batons  and  decorations. 
Souvenirs  of  Napoleon  I. :  bench  from  St.  Helena ;  camp-bedstead ; 
grey  coat ;  coat  worn  by  Napoleon  at  Marengo ;  dressing-gown ;  hat, 
etc.  Saddles  of  Louis  XIV.  (G  624),  Charles  X.  (626),  and  Napo- 
leon I.  (625). 

The  remainder  of  the  collection  is  placed  under  the  gates  and 
in  the  courts  on  each  side  of  the  passage.  On  the  right  is  the  Cour 
de  la  Victoire,  containing  modern  cannon,  models  of  naval  cannon, 
Chinese  gun-carriage,  a  Russian  gun  and  carriage  from  Sebastopol, 
and  several  cannon  recovered  in  1872  from  Spanish  galleons  which 
foundered  in  the  Bay  of  Vigo  in  1701 ;  armour  plates  pierced  by 
cannon-shots.  —  On  the  other  side  is  the  Cour  d^Angoulimey  where 
among  other  pieces  is  placed  the  Griffln,  a  culverin  captured  at 
Ehrenbreitstein  on  the  Rhine  in  1797,  cast  in  1528,  and  weighing 
nearly  13  tons.  Bronze  statue  of  J.  B,  Qribeauval  (1716-1789), 
first  inspector-general  of  ordnance,  by  Bartholdi.  By  the  wall  here 
is  a  chain  190  yds.  long,  and  372  tons  in  weight,  used  by  the  Turks 
at  the  siege  of  Vienna  in  1683  for  the  purpose  of  barricading  an  arm 
of  the  Danube.  Under  the  carriage-entrance  is  a  chain  with  fifty 
iron  collars  for  prisoners,  captured  in  the  Morocco  camp  after  the 
battle  of  Islyin  1855. 

The  Second  Floor  is  reached  by  the  staircase  from  the   corridor 

mentioned  at  p.  377.    Four  rooms  on  the  left  contain  a  very  interesting 

conection  ot  72  *Cottumes  de  Querre^  including  prehistoric,   Gallic,  Greek, 

aadBoman  coatumea,  and  French  costumes  from  the  time  of  Charlemagne 

Iowa  to  the  end  ot  the  18th  century.  —  The  («\\«Ty  on  the  right  is  oc- 

^pled  by  a  valaablc  coJicction  of  small  AfodiUi  d' ArWUrie  ItomV^^  «k»xU<iat 


12.  EGLISE  DES  INVALIDES.  279 

period  down  to  the  present  day.    The  field-artillery  is  in  the  centre  and 
on  the  left;  the  siege-artillery  next  the  windows. 

The  Hus^e  de  TArm^e,  in  the  Cour  d'Honneur  (p.  275),  opposite 
the  Mns^e  d'Artillerie,  and  open  at  the  same  hours  (p.  273),  is  a 
recent  foundation,  occupying  at  present  only  two  of  the  six  rooms 
that  have  been  set  apart  for  it.  The  Mus6e  d'Arm^e  is  devoted  to 
souvenirs  of  the  French  army,  and  may  he  regarded  as  the  comple- 
ment  of  the  preceding  collection. 

To  the  right  of  the  vestibule  is  the  Salle  Turenne,  the  former  officers' 
mess-room,  with  mural  paintings  contemporary  wiih  the  foundation  of  the 
Hdtel.  Facing  the  door:  souvenirs  of  Turenne,  including  the  ball  that 
killed  him  at  Sasbach  (1675).  Then,  to  the  right  and  in  the  centre:  battle- 
scenes,  representations  of  uniforms,  etc.  To  the  left :  representations  of  old 
French  flags  and  standards.  A  glass-case  contains  some  sabres  and  bullets, 
recently  found  relics  of  the  passage  of  the  Beresina  (Kov.  26-29th,  1812). 
Farther  on  are  uniforms  of  the  French  army  since  the  First  Republic; 
dresses  and  souvenirs  of  various  marshals  and  generals :  pistols  of  Napo- 
leon I.,  bridle  of  his  horse  at  Waterloo,  his  three-cornered  hat,  table  and 
chair  owned  by  him  as  a  lieutenant,  memorials  from  his  tomb  at  St.  Helena, 
souvenirs  of  the  Due  de  Beichstadt,  son  of  Kapoleon  I.,  etc.  Behind,  to 
the  left,  the  waggon  that  brought  17apoleon''s  coffin  for  embarkation  at 
Jamestown ;  to  the  right,  golden  wreath  presented  by  Cherbourg  when  his 
remains  were  brought  to  France.  By  the  middle  of  the  rear-wall  is  the 
pall  that  covered  the  sarcophagus  before  it  was  placed  in  the  Hotel  des 
Invalides. 

To  the  left  of  the  vestibule  is  the  Salle  Bugeaud^  the  former  soldiers' 
mess-room,  the  walls  of  which  are  covered  by  mural  paintings  with  old 
plans  of  fortresses.  The  room  contains  pictures,  uniforms,  and  other  re- 
miniscences of  the  conquest  of  Algeria  (1830),  the  sieges  of  Antwerp  (18o2) 
and  Rome,  the  wars  in  the  Crimea,  Italy,  China,  and  Mexico,  the  Franco- 
German  war,  and  various  Colonial  expeditions. 

TheEglise  des  Invalides  consists  of  two  distinct  parts,  the  Eglise 
St.  Louis,  and  the  D6me. 

The  EoLiSE  St.  Louis  is  entered  from  the  S.  side  of  the 
Cour  d'Honneur.  The  nave  is  adorned  with  banners  captured  in 
Algeria,  the  Crimea,  Italy,  China,  and  Mexico. 

On  30th  March,  1814,  the  evening  before  the  entry  of  the  Allies  into  Paris, 
about  1500  flags,  the  victorious  trophies  of  Napoleon  I.,  were  burned  in  the 
court  of  the  Invalides  to  prevent  their  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy. 
The  sword  brought  by  Napoleon  from  the  tomb  of  Frederick  the  Great 
at  Potsdam  in  1806  was  destroyed  on  the  same  occasion.  A  number  of 
other  flags  captured  during  the  wars  of  the  Republic  and  the  first  Empire 
were  accidentally  burned  during  the  funeral  obsequies  of  Marshal  Se- 
bastian! in  1851. 

The  columns  of  the  church  bear  a  number  of  monuments  and  tablets 
in  memory  of  former  governors  of  the  Hotel  des  Invalides.  Four  bronze 
tablets  record  the  names  of  the  marshals  and  officers  interred  in  the  vaults 
of  the  church.  Behind  the  high-altar  is  a  large  window  filled  with  modern 
stained  glass,  below  which  is  a  door  leading  into  the  Dome,  but  gener- 
aUy  closed. 

The  *D6me  des  Inyalides  has  an  entrance  of  its  own  on  the  S. 
side,  in  the  Place  Vauban ,  at  the  back  of  the  H6tel,  which  may  be 
reached  by  the  Corridor  de  Metz  to  the  left  of  the  church  (comp. 
the  Plan).  Admission,  see  p.  273.  Sticks  and  umbtelU-s  \wv^\.  \i^ 
left  at  the  entrance  (no  charge). 

This  second  church  was  built  by  J.  H.  Mansaxl  Vtv  Vol^-NTl'v^^ 


280  12.   TOMB  OF  NAPOLEON  I. 

not  only  as  an  effective  crowning  feature  for  the  entire  pile  of  build- 
ings, but  also  as  an  arena  ('Eglise  Royale')  for  the  pompous  ceremo- 
nial that  took  place  when  the  king  attended  divine  service  in  his 
capacity  as  *protecteur  des  Invalides'.  It  is  entered  by  a  portal  with 
two  series  of  columns,  Doric  and  Corinthian,  placed  one  above  the 
other,  and  adorned  with  statues.  The  church  is  a  square  pile,  198  ft. 
in  breadth,  surmounted  by  a  circular  tower  with  twelve  windows  and 
a  lofty  dome,  above  which  rise  a  lantern  and  cross ,  344  ft.  in  height. 
The  dome,  86  ft.  in  diameter,  gilded  during  the  first  Empire,  and 
again ,  by  the  electro-plating  system ,  in  1861 ,  is  constructed  of 
woodwork  covered  with  lead,  and  is  embellished  with  reliefs  re- 
presenting military  trophies. 

The  *Tomb  of  Napoleon  I.,  constructed  by  7i«contt,  and  situated 
beneath  the  dome,  is  an  open  circular  crypt,  20  ft.  in  depth  and  36  ft. 
in  diameter.  On  the  mosaic  pavement,  which  represents  a  wreath 
of  laurels  and  is  inscribed  with  the  names  of  battles  (Rivoliy  Pyra- 
mids^ Marengo^  AusterlitZj  Jena,  Friedland,  Wagram^  and  Moscova), 
rises  the  sarcophagus,  13  ft.  long,  6^2  ^t-  wide,  and  14^/2  ft.  high, 
consisting  of  a  single  huge  block  of  Siberian  porphyry  weighing 
upwards  of  67  tons.  The  twelve  colossal  Victories  surrounding  the 
sarcophagus  were  among  the  last  works  of  IVadier  (d.  1851).  The 
six  trophies  consist  of  sixty  flags  captured  in  battle  by  Napoleon. 
The  walls  of  the  crypt,  behind  the  Victories,  are  of  polished  slabs  of 
granite,  adorned  with  ten  marble  reliefs  by  Simart  (d.  1858) :  Re- 
storation of  public  order,  the  Concordat,  the  Reformed  Administra- 
tion, the  State  Council,  the  Code,  the  University,  the  Chamber  of 
Finance,  the  Development  of  Commerce  and  Industry,  Public  Works, 
and  the  Legion  of  Honour. 

The  entrance  to  the  crypt  (closed)  is  at  the  back  of  the  high-altar. 
It  is  flanked  by  two  sarcophagi,  bearing  the  names  of  Duroc  and  Ber- 
trandy  the  emperor's  faithful  friends.  The  former  fell  at  the  battle  of 
Bautzen  in  1813;  the  latter  (d.  1844)  was  the  emperor^s  constant  com- 
panion throughout  his  wars  and  his  captivity,  and  followed  his  remains 
when  brought  by  Prince  Joinville  from  St.  Helena  in  1840  to  their  pre- 
sent resting-place.  Above  the  entrance  are  these  words  from  the  em- 
Seror^s  will:  ^Je  desire  que  mes  cendres  reposent  sur  lea  bords  de  la 
eine,  au  milieu  de  ce  peuple  fran^ais  que  j'ai  tant  aimd\  On  each  side 
is  a  colossal  Atlas  in  bronze,  by  Duret^  one  bearing  a  globe,  the  other  a 
sceptre  and  crown. 

Above  the  crypt,  at  a  height  of  160  ft.,  rises  the  lofty  dome  in 
two  sections.  The  first  of  these  is  divided  into  twelve  compart- 
ments, painted  vnth  figures  of  the  Apostles  by  Jouvenet  (d.  1717). 
The  upper  section  is  adorned  with  a  large  composition  by  Ch.  de  Lafoase 
(d.  1716):  St.  Louis  offering  to  Christ  the  sword  with  which  he 
had  vanquished  the  foes  of  Christianity.  The  Evangelists  in  the 
spandrels  are  by  the  same  artist.  The  paintings  above  the  high 
altar  are  by  N.  Coypel.  The  faint,  bluish  light  admitted  from  above, 
and  the  sombre  appearance  of  the  crypt  and  its  surroundings  greatly 
enhance  the  solemn  grandeur  of  the  scene. 

2V(7  lofty  obapels  on  each  side  of  the  ctT5^  toiiUva.  \Xi^  ts^qvw.- 


12.    TOBACCO  MANUFACTORY.  281 

ments  of  Vauhan  (d.  1707)  and  Turenne  (d.  1675),  with  recumbent 
figures.  The  former,  by  Etex,  was  erected  in  1847 ;  the  latter,  by 
Tuby  and  Marsy,  was  brought  from  St.  Denis. 

The  chapel  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  contains  the  tomb  of 
Jirdme  Bonaparte  (d.  1860),  once  King  of  Westphalia,  with  a  bronze 
statue  by  Ooillaume,  a  smaller  sarcophagus  with  the  remains  of  his 
eldest  son,  and  another  containing  the  heart  of  his  wife.  The  chapel 
to  the  light  of  the  entrance  contains  the  sarcophagus  of  Joseph  Bona- 
parte (d.  1844),  once  King  of  Spain.  These  chapels  are  decorated 
with  paintings  by  Bon  and  Louis  Boulogne j  the  others  with  paint- 
ings by  Bon  Boulogne  and  Mich,  ComeiUe. 

The  Place  Vaubany  in  front  of  the  Dome,  is  the  destined  site  for  a 
colossal  monument,  by  Gaudez,  to  soldiers  who  have  fallen  in  the  colonial 
armies  of  France.  In  the  Avenue  de  BreteuU^  which  begins  here,  is  seen 
the  tower  (108  ft.)  of  the  Artesian  Well  of  Orenelle,  which  is  1800  ft.  deep. 

Nearer  the  Place  Yauban,  to  the  left,  are  the  towers  of  the  church  of 
St.  PraB90iB  Xavier,  erected  in  1861-75  by  Lnsson  and  Uchard  in  a  pseado- 
Benaissance  style.  It  is  adorned  with  mural  paintings  by  Lameire,  E. 
Delaunay,  Gazes,  aiid  Bougnereau,  a  Virgin  by  Bonassieuz,  and  stained 
glass  by  Mar^ohal.    The  arrangement  of  the  interior  is  somewhat  peculiar. 

Farther  on  in  the  same  direction,  at  the  end  of  the  Boulevard  des 
Invalides,  on  the  right,  is  the  Blind  Asylum,  or  InsMution  des  Jeunes 
Aveuffles  (PI.  B  13,  /F;  admission  by  permission  of  the  director,  except 
during  the  yacation  in  Aug.  and  Sept.).  This  handsome  edifice  was  erected 
in  1839-43.  The  relief  in  the  tympanum,  by  Jouffroy^  represents  Valentin 
HaUy  (d.  1822),  founder  of  the  institution,  instructing  his  pupils  under  the 
protection  of  Beligion.  In  the  court  is  placed  another  statue  of  the  founder. 
—  The  asylum  contains  the  MugU  HaUy  (adm.  on  Wed.,  2-5,  with  the  per- 
mission of  the  Director),  containing  artides  manufactured  by  or  for  the 
use  of  the  blind.  

The  quay  to  the  E.  of  the  Esplanade  des  Invalides  (p.  273)  is  also  in- 
cluded within  the  Exhibition  of  1900.  Here  rises  the  extensive  Manufacture 
des  Tabaca  (PI.  B,  14),  Quai  d'Orsay  63.  Visitors  are  admitted  on  Thurs- 
days on  applying  shortly  before  2  o'clock.  This  extensive  establishment, 
known  as  'd«f  Qros-CaiUou"^  is  worthy  of  a  visit,  but  the  pungent  smell  of 
the  tobacco  saturates  the  clothes  and  is  not  easily  got  rid  of.  About  2200 
workpeople  are  employed  here,  and  over  19  mUlion  lbs.  of  tobacco  are 
annually  manufactured.  —  The  Inginieur*  aux  Tabacs^  or  higher  officials, 
are  educated  at  the  Polytechnic  School,  and  study  two  years  at  the  ^Ecole 
d'application  pour  les  Tabacs\  There  are  several  other  government 
manufactories  of  tobacco  in  France,  all  dependent  on  that  of  Paris,  yield- 
ing a  net  revenue  of  366,000,000  fr. 

Farther  on  towards  the  Ghamp-de-Mars,  at  No.  103,  Quai  d'Crsay, 
is  the  temporary  Oarde  Meuble  de  TEtat  (PI.  B,  11  j  /).  It  contains  an 
interesting  collection  of  furniture,  tapestry,  bronzes,  and  other  objects  of 
artistic  and  historical  value.  This  museum  is  open  to  the  public  daily, 
except  Mon.,  10-4  o'clock  j  visitors  write  their  names  in  a  book  on  entering. 
Two  large  rooms  to  the  right  contain  furniture,  bronzes,  tapestry,  vases, 
etc.;  and  a  smaller  room  to  the  left  contains  porcelain  and  small  objects 
of  art.  The  catalogue  (IVs  fr.)  contains  910  numbers,  of  which  only  about 
400  are  exhibited:  Nos.  51-109.  Style  of  Louis  XIV.;  131-242.  Louis  XV. ^ 
279-419.  Louis  XVI.;  500  526.  First  Bepublic;  6C0-615.  First  Empire; 
700-707.  Bestoration-,  750-759.  Louib  Philippe;  800-811.  Second  Empire ; 
850-856.  Modern  times;  900-910.  Various. 


282  12.  CHAMP-DE-MARS. 


III.    THE  OHAMP-DE-MABB. 

Eiffel  Tower.    Galerie  des  Machmes.    Ecole  Militaire. 

The  Qhamp-de-Mars  may  be  reached  by  the  Chemin  de  Fer  du  Champ- 
de-Marty  from  the  Gate  St.  Lazare  (p.  26)  ^  by  Steamboat  (see  p.  26);  by 
the  Tramways  from  the  Louvre  to  St.  Cloud,  Sfevres,  and  Versailles  (  TAB\ 
from  the  Bastille  to  the  Porte  Rapp  (TL)^  or  from  St.  Philippe-du-Roule 
to  the  Porte  6:Or\€9,Tii(TAF)^  by  those  running  to  the  Trocad^ro  (p.  169); 
and  by  Omnibus  from  the  Porte  St.  Martin  to  Grenelle  ( F),  from  the  Quai 
de  Valmy  to  the  Porte  Rapp  (AD),  or  from  the  Gare  St.  Lazare  to  Grenelle 
(AH)  or  to  the  Trocad^ro. 

The  ♦Champ-de-Mars  (PL  R,  8,  10,  U ;  i),  a  little  to  the  W. 
of  the  Invalides,  the  chief  scene  of  the  Exhibition  of  1900,  was, 
until  1889,  a  large  sandy  space,  1100  yds.  in  length  and  550  yds. 
in  breadth,  used  for  military  manoeuvres 

Down  to  1856  it  was  enclosed  by  embankments,  15-20  ft.  in  height, 
which  were  planted  with  trees,  and  in  the  formation  of  which  no  fewer 
than  60,000  Parisians  of  both  aexes  and  all  classes  participated  in  the 
year  1790.  These  banks  were  then  furnished  with  tiers  of  seats,  which 
enabled  hundreds  of  thousands  of  the  people  to  witness  the  Ftte  de  la 
Fidiraiion^  which  took  place  on  14th  July  of  the  same  year.  In  front  of 
the  iScole  Militaire  was  erected  the  Autel  de  la  PatrU^  where  the  king, 
the  national  assembly,  and  the  representatives  of  the  army  and  the  pro- 
vinces, swore  fidelity  to  the  new  constitution.  Talleyrand,  Bishop  of 
Autun,  with  400  of  the  clergy,  robed  in  white,  officiated  in  the  religious 
part  of  the  ceremony.  The  rejoicings  on  this  occasion  were  universal, 
as  it  was  believed  that  the  Revolution  was  now  happily  terminated.  A 
similar  festival,  the  famous  Champ  de  MaL  was  celebrated  here  with  the 
utmost  pomp  b>  Napoleon  on  1st  June,  1815.  Here  too,  in  August,  1880, 
Louis  Philippe  presented  colours  to  the  I^ational  Guard,  and  in  1862  Kapo- 
leon  III.  distributed  to  the  army  the  eagles  which  were  to  replace  the 
Gallic  cock.  The  Ghamp-de-Mars  was  the  site  of  the  ^Expositions  Univer- 
selles'  of  1867,  1878,  and  1889,  and  is  again  occupied  by  that  of  1900. 

The  •Eiffel  Tower  (Tour  Eiffel  or  Tour  de  Trois  Cents  mtres), 
close  to  the  Seine  and  opposite  the  Trocadtfro,  naturally  the  most 
conspicuous  object  in  view ,  was  built  by  M,  (htst.  Eiffel  (b.  1832 
at  Dijon)  in  rather  less  than  two  years  (1887-89).  This  enormous 
structure  is  the  loftiest  monument  in  the  world,  attaining  a  height 
of  984  ft.,  or  not  far  short  of  twice  the  height  (655  ft.)  of  the 
Washington  Column  at  Washington  (tower  of  Ulm  cathedral  528  ft., 
Cologne  511  ft,  Rouen  495  ft..  Great  Pyramid  449  ft.,  St.  Paul's  in 
London  404  ft.).  At  the  same  time  it  is  an  interesting  specimen 
of  bold  and  accurate  skill  in  design  and  of  the  marvellous  scientific 
precision  of  modern  engineering.  Owing  to  the  effect  of  perspective 
the  tower,  when  seen  close,  appears  to  be  lower  than  it  really  is. 
The  foundations  were  laid  by  means  of  iron  caissons,  sunk  to  a 
depth  of  46  ft.  on  the  side  next  the  Seine,  and  29  Y2  ^t.  on  the  other 
side,  compressed  air  being  used  to  expel  the  water.  Concrete  was 
then  poured  in  to  form  a  bed  for  four  massive  foundation- piers  of 
masonry,  85  ft.  thick,  arranged  in  a  quadrangle  112  yds.  square. 
Upon  this  base,  which  covers  about  27q  acres  of  ground,  rises  the 
extraordinary  yet  graceful  structure  of  interlaced  iron-work.  The 
^our  uprights  have  an  initial  inclination  ol  b4f*,  wi^>ifeTv^%.Wit\i^<4 


12.  EIFFEL  TOWER.  283 

first  platform  are  united  with  each  other  by  round  spans,  form- 
ing a  kind  of  huge  triumphal  archway,  higher  than  the  Nelson 
Column  in  Trafalgar  Square.  Above  the  first  platform  the  four 
uprights  are  still  distinct,  but  they  gradually  approach  each  other 
as  they  ascend,  and  finally  coalesce  into  a  single  shaft  at  a  height 
of  about  590  ft.  The  iron  girders  and  beams  used  are  hollow,  while 
the  upright  standards  are  each  2  ft.  in  breadth.  The  successive 
platforms  may  be  reached  either  by  means  of  the  staircases  or  by 
hydraulic  lifts  (fare,  see  below). 

The  First  Platform  is  190  ft.  above  the  ground  and  has  an  area 
of  about  5860  square  yards.  —  The  Second  Platform ,  32  yds. 
square,  at  the  height  of  380  ft. ,  is  occupied  by  a  glass-covered  hall, 
and  the  reservoir  of  the  hydraulic  lifts.  At  680  ft.  is  a  kind  of 
landing-place  or  floor.  Even  as  it  approaches  the  top  the  tower  is 
33  ft.  square.  —  The  Third  Platform,  at  the  foot  of  the  double 
lantern  which  terminates  the  tower,  904  ft.  from  the  ground,  sup- 
ports a  glass  pavilion,  54  ft.  square,  capable  of  holding  800  people. 
The  Lantern  rises  79  ft.  higher.  A  staircase  ascends  within  it  to 
a  circular  balcony,  1672  f*.  iii  diameter,  above  which  again  is  the 
electric  light,  which  is  seen  at  night  for  a  distance  of  45  miles.  — 
There  are  in  all  1792  steps  from  base  to  summit :  to  the  first  plat- 
form 350  (7-8  min.),  thence  to  the  second  380  (10  min.),  and 
thence  to  the  top  10B2. 

The  Ascent  of  the  tower  is  recommended  only  in  clear  weather.  The 
tower  is  open  daily  from  10  a.m.  till  dusk,  from  March  to  November  (in 
winter,  see  below).  It  contains  two  restaurants  (bargain  advisable),  a 
*brasserie%  buffets  (on  the  3nd  and  3rd  platforms),  a  theatre,  etc.  Visitors 
ascend  to  the  second  platform  by  staircases  or  lifts  (ateenteurt) ;  beyond 
that  by  the  lift  alone.  The  staircases  to  the  first  platform  are  in  the 
W.  and  E.  legs  of  the  tower;  those  to  the  second  platform  in  the  others. 
The  Charge  is  the  same  for  the  staircases  or  lifts:  to  each  of  the  first 
two  platforms  1,  to  the  3rd  2  fr.  (i.e.  in  all  4  fr.);  on  Sun.  and  holidays 
Vz  and  1  fr. ;  children  half-price  on  week-days  only.  On  Sun.  and  holidays 
there  is  no  guarantee  that  all  visitors  can  ascend  to  the  top.  —  The  terrace 
of  the  4th  story  is  open  to  the  public  on  Sun.,  Men.,  Wed.,  and  Thursday. 
—  In  winter  visitors  are  allowed  to  ascend  the  staircases  to  the  first  two 
platforms,  daily  from  12  Ull  dusk  (1  fr.). 

The  *  View  from  the  top  is  very  extensive,  but  varies  greatly  with  the 
state  of  the  atmosphere.  In  certain  directions  it  extends  for  55  M.  in  a 
direct  line,  i.  e.  beyond  the  limits  to  the  N.  and  S.  of  the  map  at  p.  350. 
To  the  S.W.,  for  example,  we  may  see  as  far  as  Chartres,  to  the  N.E. 
as  far  as  Yillers-Cotterets.  The  view  from  the  first  two  platforms  is 
bounded  by  the  hills  surrounding  Paris. 

The  Champ-de-Mars  between  the  Eiffel  Tower  and  the  Galerie 
des  Machines  is  now  occupied  by  buildings  of  the  Exposition  XJni- 
verselle  de  1900. 

The  old  Galerie  des  Hachines,  at  the  end  of  the  Champ-de-Mars, 
is  an  enormous  hall  built  by  Dutert  and  Contamin  for  the  Exhibition 
of  1889.  It  is  450  yds.  long,  165  yds.  broad,  and  160  ft.  high,  and 
its  glass-roof  has  a  span  of  374  ft.  The  central  part,  which.  vras» 
altered  for  the  Exhibition  of  1900 ,  oiigitiaXV^  tQW&\%\.^^  ^1  -^^  -^xsv^^ 
nave  126  yds.  in  width,  between  two  gaW^xi^^  ^i  X.^^  ^x^rcvys..   W*^ 


284  *      12.   ECOLE  MILITAIRE. 

present  the  centre  is  occupied  by  a  Salle  des  Fetes  with  accommo- 
dation for  26,000  persons.  In  front,  towards  the  Champ-de-Mars, 
is  the  Palais  de  PElectricite  mentioned  in  the  Appendix.  The  ribs 
of  the  roof  of  the  Galerie  des  Machines  spring  ftom  the  ground, 
where  their  lower  ends  rest  upon  cast-iron  sockets,  embedded  in 
masses  of  masonry  resembling  the  piers  of  a  bridge.  The  main 
entrance  is  on  the  side  next  the  Hdtel  des  InvalideB,  and  there  are 
other  entrances  at  both  ends. 

The  EcoleMilitaire  (PI.  R,  10 ;  i),  an  imposing  edifice  by  Qahriel^ 
situated  a  little  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Invalides  and  covering  an  area  of 
26  acres,  was  founded  in  1751  by  Louis  XV.,  *pour  y  Aever  cinq  cents 
gentils-hommes  dans  toutes  les  sciences  n^cessaires  et  convenables 
2l  un  offloier*.  In  1792  it  was  converted  into  barracks,  but  it  is  now 
the  seat  of  the  Ecole  Supirieure  de  Ouerre,  The  principal  part,  on 
the  N.  W.  side,  presents  a  palatial  appearance  and  is  ^4  M.  in  length. 
The  Corinthian  portico  in  the  centre  is  surmounted  by  a  quadran- 
gular dome.  The  wings  were  added  in  1855.  The  chapel  resem- 
bles that  of  the  palace  of  Versailles.  The  public  are  not  admitted 
to  the  Ecole  without  special  permission. 


13.  The  Southern  Quarters. 

Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  are  the  best  days  for  this  excursion 
for  those  who  wish  to  visit  the  collections  in  the  Ecole  Supirieure  des 
Mines,  whither  we  may  proceed  from  the  cemetery  of  Montparnasse.  On 
Saturday  a  visit  to  the  Gobelins  may  be  included ;  and  in  that  case  we 
may  avail  ourselves  of  the  public  conveyances  plying  along  the  Rue  Gay- 
Lussac  and  the  Boul.  Montparnasse  and  from  the  Porte  Royale  (comp.  PI. 
in  the  Appx.).  —  Or  we  may  proceed  direct  to  the  Gimeti^re  Montparnasse 
(Omnibus  F)  or  to  the  Pare  Montsouris  (tramways  to  Montrouge).  —  With 
a  visit  to  the  Pare  Montsouris  an  excursion  on  the  Ligne  de  Sceaux  (p.  350) 
may  also  easily  be  combined.  —  Luncheon  may  be  taken  near  the  Gare 
Montparnasse  or  near  the  Luxembourg  (p.  19). 

I.    FROM  THE  LUXEMBOUBO   TO   THE  OBSEBVATOIRE  AND  THE 
OEMETEBY  OF  MONTPARNASSE. 

Palais  du  Luxembourg ^  see  p.  265.  Continuing  to  ascend  the 
Boul.  St.  Michel  beyond  the  Luxembourg  Garden,  we  pass  on  the 
right  the  Ecole  Bup^eiire  des  Mines  (PI.  G,  19 ;  IV),  which  possesses 
a  valuable  *Musie  de  Miniralogie,  de  Qfologie^  et  de  Paliontologie 
(open  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.,  1-4). 

The  entrance  is  in  the  middle,  by  the  second  iron  gate.  In  the  vesti- 
bule are  fine  carved  specimens  of  Siberian  graphite.  The  staircase  is 
adorned  with  paintings  of  places  of  geological  celebrity,  by  Hugard. 

The  two  small  rooms  adjoining  the  entrance  and  a  third  beyond  the 
staircase  to  the  second  floor  make  a  small  mineralogical  museum  of  them- 
selves, forming  a  *r^sumd'  of  the  large  collection.  Some  artificial  minerals 
are  also  exhibited  here.  In  the  second  room,  at  the  end  opposite  the 
entrance,  is  a  Cape  diamond  embedded  in  a  fragment  of  rock. 

The  mineralogical  and  geological  collections  occupy  fifteen  rooms  or 
sections  on   the  nrat  Hoot,    The  glass-caaes  ate  iium\^«t«^  ttom  the  S. 


13.   FONTAINE  DE  L'OBSERVATOIRE.  285 

end  (left  on  entering),  and  the  principal  objects  are  labelled.  The  first 
3  flections  are  devotea  to  geology.  The  unnumbered  cabinets  round  the 
walls  contain  special  collections  illustrating  particular  districts  and  large 
unclassified  specimens.  A  room  to  the  right  of  the  Srd  section  contains 
the  Delessert  Collection,  another  r^sum^  of  the  general  collection.  The 
mineraiogical  collection,  in  the  8  following  sections,  is  classified  in  the 
order  of  the  composition  of  the  specimens,  beginning  with  silica  and 
ending  with  the  metals.  In  the  glass-cases  round  these  rooms  is  an  im- 
portant collection  of  French  natural  products  (arranged  by  departments), 
used  in  manufactures.  —  Among  the  more  interesting  specimens  may  be 
mentioned  the  floe  samples  of  Siberian  graphite^  in  the  section  next  the 
entrance.  Cases  18-23:  emeralds,  garnets,  tourmalines,  and  topazes;  opposite 
the  staircase  to  the  2nd  floor,  Cases  39,  40:  sapphires,  rubies,  and  cymo- 
pbanes;  in  the  last  section  but  one.  Cases  15  and  16  of  the  series  by  the 
windows :  specimens  of  sulphur  and  diamonds. 

The  palseontological  collection,  on  the  second  floor,  is  arranged  zoologi- 
cally, and  contains  many  interesting  and  valuable  curiosities. 

The  garden  of  the  Lnxembonrg  has  been  considerably  reduced 
in  extent  since  1867.  The  central  AlUe  de  VOhservaioirt^  however, 
has  been  reserved  and  converted  into  a  promenade,  embellished  with 
marble  groups  representing  Dawn  (by  Jouffroy),  Day  (by  Perraud), 
Evening  (by  Grauk),  and  Night  (by  Gumery).  On  the  right,  near 
the  garden,  is  the  Lycie  Montaigne,  At  the  corner  is  the  Ecole  Colon^ 
ialCf  built  in  the  Moorish  style  in  1895-96.  Farther  on  are  the  Ecole 
de  Pharmacie,  by  Eug.Rigault  (with  statues  of  Vauquelin  and  Par- 
meutier  and  frescoes  by  Betnard  in  the  corridor  of  the  groundfloor), 
and  the  Clinique  d* AceouchemenU 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  promenade  rises  the  handsome  ^Fontaine 
de  rObserratoire  or  du  Luxembourg  (PI.  G,  19),  erected  in  1874 
from  designs  by  FrSmiet,  adorned  with  eight  sea-horses,  a  group 
of  four  allegorical  figures  bearing  an  armillary  sphere,  by  Carpeaux, 
and  water-spouting  dolphins  and  tortoises.  To  the  E.  is  the  cupola 
of  the  Val-de-Gr&ce  (p.  286). 

In  the  Gabbefoxjb  db  l^Obsbbvatoibb  (PI.  G,  19)  is  a  monu- 
ment, by  Puech,  to  Francis  Oamier  (1839-73) ,  the  explorer  and 
conqueror  of  Tonkin.  The  Statue  of  Ney^  to  the  right  of  the  Carrefour, 
marks  the  spot  where  the  marshal  was  shot  on  7th  Dec,  1815,  in 
accordance  with  the  sentence  pronounced  by  the  Chamber  of  Peers 
on  the  previous  evening.  The  statue  in  bronze,  by  RudCy  erected 
in  1853,  with  its  forced  attitude  and  open  mouth,  is  not  a  successful 
work.  To  the  left  are  a  station  on  the  new  branch  of  the  Ligne  de 
Sceaux  (p.  350),  which  passes  below  the  Boulevard,  and  the  Bal 
Bullier  (p.  37),  gaudily  fitted  up  in  terracotta,  with  the  appropriate 
inscription :  'Saltavit  et  placuit'. 

In  the  Rue  St.  Jacques,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Boul.  St.  Michel,  is  the 
church  of  St.  Jacquet-du-Haut- Pat  (PI.  G,  19;  F),  of  the  17th  century. 

Adjoining  this  church  is   the  Inttitutifm  det  Sourds-Muet*  (admission 
on  Tues.,  2-4  p.m.,  by  permission  of  the  director),  the  court  of  which 
contains  a  statue  of  the  Abbi  de  TEpie^  the  founder,  by  F^lix  Martin,  a. 
deaf-mute,  and  an  elm-tree,  100  ft.  high,  said  to  li%.Nft\>fe«\x^\Ko\fe^  vQ.V^*i.v 
and  probably  the  oldest  tree  in  Paris.    The  \iia\.\VoL\.\ftTv  ^vi\Aa.vRS>  ^  «m^;S^ 
special  museum. 


286  13.    OBSERVATOIRE. 

The  Rae  de  rAbb^-de-FEp^e  leads  between  tbe  church  of  St.  Jacques 
and  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution  to  the  Bue  Gay-Lussac ,  Xo.  41  in 
which  is  the  Mutie  Pidagogiqve^  open  on  Thurs.  from  10  a.m.  to  4  or  5  p.m. 
It  comprises  a  Mutie  des  Poupdes,  showing  the  costumes  of  the  ancient 
provinces  of  France  and  of  several  foreign  countries. 

In  the  Rue  St.  Jacques,  farther  on,  we  observe  the  — 

Val-de-Gr&ce(Pl.  G,  19),  formerly  a  Benedictine  nunnery,  found- 
ed by  Anne  of  Austria,  mother  of  Louis  XIY.,  in  accordance  with 
a  vow,  but  converted  into  a  military  hospital  in  1790.  The  Churchy 
designed  by  Fr,  Manaart ,  and  erected  in  1645-66,  is  a  handsome 
building.  The  court  in  front  of  it  is  embellished  with  bronze  statues 
of  the  two  Barons  Larrey  (father  and  son),  the  famous  surgeons,  by 
David  d' Angers  and  Falgui^re.  Above  the  ifa^ade,  with  its  Corinthian 
and  composite  columns,  rises  the  handsome  dome,  a  reduced  copy  of 
that  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  53  ft.  in  diameter,  and  133  ft.  in  height, 
flanked  with  four  towers  which  also  terminate  in  domes.  —  The 
Interior  is  somewhat  bare.  The  coffered  vaulting  and  the  high- 
altar,  with  its  canopy  borne  by  spiral  columns,  are  copies  of  those  of 
St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  On  the  dome  is  painted  a  celebrated,  but  badly 
preserved,  fresco  by  Pierre  Mignard  (d.  1695),  representing  the  glory 
of  the  blessed.  The  marble  group  on  the  high-altar  is  a  copy  of 
Mich.  Anguier's  group  in  St.  Roch  (p.  85),  which  was  formerly 
here.  —  This  church  contains  the  tomb  of  Queen  Henrietta,  wife 
of  Charles  I.  of  England,  over  whose  remains  a  famous  funeral 
oration  was  pronounced  by  Bossuet.  It  was  also  the  burial-place  of 
members  of  the  royal  family  of  France  and  princes  of  Orleans. 

A  little  farther  on,  the  Rue  St.  Jacques  crosses  the  Boulevard 
de  Port-Royal,  in  which  are  the  Maternity  Hoapitali  of  Baudelocque 
and  La  Matemiti^  and  the  Hdpital  du  Midi  or  Ricord,  In  front  of 
the  last  is  a  Statue  of  Dr.  Ph.  Ricord  (1800-1889),  by  E.  Barrias. 

Beyond  the  Carrefour  de  I'Observatoire  the  Avenue  de  VObser- 
vatoire  leads  to  the  observatory. 

The  Observatoire  (PI.  G,  19,  20),  an  institution  of  great  repu- 
tation, occupying  a  building  which  has  repeatedly  been  enlarged,  was 
founded  in  1672.  The  meridian  of  Paris  (2<*20'  9"  B.  of  Greenwich) 
runs  through  the  centre  of  the  building,  and  the  latitude  of  the  S. 
facade  is  held  to  be  that  of  Paris  (48°  50'  N.).  The  copper  dome, 
to  the  left ,  containing  a  large  parallactic  telescope ,  is  42  ft.  in 
diameter,  and  is  constructed  so  as  to  revolve  round  its  vertical  axis. 
The  Astronomical  Museum  is  shown  on  the  first  Saturday  of  each 
month  at  2  p.m.  precisely,  by  permission  of  the  director  (obtained 
on  written  application,  with  stamp  for  reply).  —  In  front  of  the 
facade  is  &  Statue  ofLe  Vcrrier  (1811-77),  the  astronomer,  by  Chapu. 
From  the  Carrefour  we  follow,  to  the  right,  the  Boulevard 
Montpamassej  which  leads  to  the  station  of  that  name,  crossing  the 
-Boulevard  BaspaU,  which  when  complete  will  run  from  the  Boul. 
St.  QeTmain(Pl.  B,  il:^  IV)  to  tbePlaceDeTit«it-^oc\v«eau(p.288), 


13.    CEMETERY  OF  MONTPARNASSE.  287 

skirting  the  Cemetery  of  Montparnasse.  In  this  street,  to  the  left, 
at  the  corner  of  the  Boulevard  Edgar-Quipet,  is  a  bronze  statue,  by 
Morice,  of  Raspail  (1794-1878),  the  famous  chemist  and  democrat. 

The  Cemetery  of  HontpamaBsey  or  Cimetihre  du  8ud(Vl.  G,  16), 
has  its  principal  entrance  in  the  Boulevard  Edgar-Quinet.  This  is 
the  third  of  the  great  Parisian  burial-grounds.  It  was  laid  out  in 
1824,  but  is  uninteresting  compared  v^ith  the  cemeteries  of  P^re 
Lachaise  and  Montmartre.  Adm.,  see  p.  180.  It  is  divided  into 
two  parts  by  the  Rue  Gassendi,  which  runs  from  the  corner  of  the 
Boul.  Edgar  Quinet  to  the  Square  de  Montrouge. 

The  cemetery  is  divided  by  walks  into  large  oblong  sections,  so  that 
the  visitor  will  easily  find  his  way.  The  chief  walks  are  the  Avenue 
Prindpale,  beginning  at  the  entrance*,  the  Avenue  du  Boulevard  and  Avenue 
du  Nord,  the  first  and  second  transverse  avenues;  then  the  Avenue  Trans- 
versale  properly  so*called;  the  Avenue  da  Midi,  at  the  end;  and  the  Ave- 
nues de  rOuest  and  de  TEst,  at  the  sides.  A  plan  of  the  cemetery  may 
be  seen  at  the  beginning  of  the  main  avenue,  to  the  left. 

Near  the  entrance,  on  the  left,  Aristide  Bovcicaut  (d.  1879),  founder  of 
the  Bon-March^;  on  the  right,  family  of  BenH  Martin  {i.  1883),  the  historian. 
Behind  it,  a  space  enclosed  by  a  railing  is  the  burial-place  of  the  sisters 
of  charity,  among  whom  lies  Soeur  Rosalie  Rendu^  who  was  decorated 
by  the  Legion  of  Honour  in  recognition  of  her  devoted  labours  in  the 
Crimea.  Oeneral  Fetit  (d.  1856),  sarcophagus  with  column  and  bronze 
bust,  by  Boitel.  --  At  the  beginning  of  the  Avenue  du  Nord,  to  the  right, 
Pierre  Larotuse  (d.  1875),  author  of  the  'Dictionnaire  Universel  du  dixneu- 
vieme  si^cle",  a  handsome  monument  with  a  bronze  bust  by  Perraud. 

In  the  main  walk,  at  the  comer  to  the  left,  Liontine  Spiegel  (d.  1860), 
with  a  statue  in  white  marble.  At  the  comer,  before  we  reach  the  second 
walk  beyond  the  last  monument:  Henri  Origoire  (d.  1831),  deputy  to  the 
States  General,  one  of  the  first  of  the  clergy  who  swore  fidelity  to  the 
new  constitution  in  1790.  afterwards  Bishop  of  Blois,  member  of  the  Council 
of  Five  Hundred  in  1795.  In  1815  he  was  deprived  of  his  bishopric  by 
Louis  XVin.,  and  excluded  from  the  Institut  (p.  245),  of  which  he  was 
a  member,  and  on  his  death  the  Archbishop  of  Paris  refused  his  remains 
Christian  burial,  as  he  had  declined  to  retract  his  oath. 

At  the  Bond-Point,  a  Monument  de  Souvenir^  commemorating  those 
who  have  no  other  monument.  Then,  on  the  right:  Desenne  (d.  1827), 
designer,  a  bronae  bust;  Deseine  (d.  1822),  the  sculptor;  Orjila  (d.  1853), 
t\e  physician,  with  a  medallion. 

Farther  up,  to  the  right  of  the  principal  avenue:  Chaudet  (d.  1810), 
sculptor,  a  chapel.  The  tower  at  the  end,  to  the  right,  is  an  old  mill, 
belonging  to  a  convent  of  Fr^res  de  St.  Jean-de-Dieu.  —  Beside  the  avenue, 
near  the  Bond-Point,  to  the  right  as  we  return :  Mme.  de  Muuy  (d.  1880). 
Between  a  Gothic  chapel  and  the  avenue,  Oirard  (d.  1837),  painter,  pyramid 
with  a  medallion  and  bas-reliefs.  Then,  ''Rude  (d.  1855),  sculptor,  with 
a  bust  and  bas-relief  by  Cabet. 

Transverse  avenue  on  the  same  side,  on  the  left:  OttaviiA.  1841),  de- 
puty, with  a  bust;  to  the  right,  Besnard  (d.  1842),  theologian,  with  a 
medallion  by  David  d' Angers. 

Avenue  de  TEst :  H.  de  Myliue  (d.  1866),  general ;  a  large  monument 
with  a  bust  in  bronze.  Farther  up,  to  the  right:  Le  Verrier  (d.  1877), 
the  astronomer.  The  walk  at  the  end,  to  the  left,  also  contains  some  inter- 
esting monuments;  Dumont  (d.  1884),  sculptor,  with  bust  by  C.  J.  Thomas. 

The  newer  part  of  the  cemetery  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  Bue  Gassendi 
(see  above).  Towards  the  centre,  at  the  corner  of  the  Ave.  Thierry  and 
the  Ave.  TransverBale,  rises  a  large  monument  to  Soldiers  who  have  died 
in  defence  of  France.  Opposite  is  one  to  Firemen  who  have  perished  Ivl 
the  execution  of  their  duties.  In  re-descending  \Xi^  KN«\iNj>Sk  ^\!\^xYi  ^  Na 
the  right:  Col.  Herbinger  (d.  1886);  bust  anfli  Te\\ti\ii  ^V.«^.    "^^  'Cv^'^\^"vV 


288      13.  CEMETERY  OF  MONTPARNASSE. 

Q.  Jundt  (d.  1884),  the  painter,  with  bronze  bust  and  statue  by  Bartholdi. 

We  return  to  the  older  part  of  the  cemetery,  and  follow  the  Avenue 
du  Nord.  On  the  left,  /.  Moulin,  French  consul  in  Saloniki  (murdered  in 
1876).  On  the  right:  Th.  Olivier  (d.  1853),  founder  of  the  Ecole  Centrale 
des  Arts  et  Manufactures,  with  a  medallion.  In  the  centre  of  the  plot, 
Alb.  Dumont  (d.  1884),  archseologist;  stele  and  bust,  by  Thomas. 

In  the  adjoining  part  of  the  Avenue  de  TEst,  to  the  right,  rises  a 
rock  with  a  medallion,  marking  the  grave  of  Auff.  Domks,  'repr^sentant 
du  peuple",  who  was  killed  by  the  insurgents  in  June,  1848.  To  the 
left,  Boulay  de  la  Meurihe  (d.  1840),  member  of  the  Council  of  Five 
Hundred,  president  of  the  legislative  section  of  the  Gonseil  d'Etat,  and 
minister  under  l^apoleon  I.,  with  a  bust  by  David;  Boulay  (d.  1868),  son 
of  the  last,  deputy,  vice-president  of  the  republic  in  1849,  president  of 
the  Conseil  d'Etat,  and  senator.  Then,  in  the  Avenue  de  TEst,  on  the 
right:  Hipp.  Labas  (d.  1867),  architect.  —  At  the  end  of  the  Avenue  de 
TEst,  to  the  right:  *Mim.  Collard-Bigi  (d.  1871),  a  Renaissance  temple 
with  a  statue  by  Franceschi.  Adjacent:  2)tf&a»(d.  1870),  architect,  with  a 
medallion ;  opposite,  Caruelle  d'Aligny  (d.  1871),  painter  \  bust  by  Etex. 

Between  the  avenues,  near  the  office  at  the  entrance,  *Comte  de  Oat- 
par t  (d.  1879),  consul  in  Venezuela,  with  a  bronze  bust;  Perraud  (d.l876), 
sculptor,  with  bust.  In  the  Avenue  du  Xord ,  to  the  left,  Jaequts  Lisfranc 
(d.  1847),  surgeon  and  professor,  with  a  bust  and  reliefs  by  Elshoecht. 

There  are  also  several  interesting  monuments  on  the  other  side  of 
the  principal  avenue,  l^ot  far  fiom  the  entrance  is  a  division  set  apart 
as  a  Jetcith  Cemetery;  there  is  another  in  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  other 
part  of  the  cemetery.  —  In  the  Avenue  de  rOues1»  near  the  middle,  on 
the  right:    Dummt  d^Urville  (d.  1842),  a  distinguished  admiral. 

The  Pare  MonUourig  may  be  reached  direct  from  the  cemetery  by 
turning  to  the  right  and  skirting  the  cemetery  to  the  Place  Denfert- 
Rochereau  (see  below).  Those  bound  for  the  Gobelins  return  to  the  Boul. 
Montpamasse  (tramway  to  the  Bastille). 

The  Gare  HontparnaBse  (PI.  G,  161  in  the  boulevaid  of  the  same 
name,  lies  not  far  from  the  cemetery  (oomp.  p.  26).  —  To  the  E. , 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  boulevard,  stands  the  church  of  Notre-Dame^ 
des-Champs,  built  in  1867-75  in  a  pseudo-Romanesque  style. 

In  the  Rue  Dutot,  about  Vs  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Gare  Montpamasse, 
is  the  Pasteur  Institute  (PI.  G,  13),  founded  by  the  eminent  acientist  of 
that  name  for  the  study  of  microbes  and  protective  vaccination.  Patients 
are  treated  for  hydrophobia  daily  after  10.30  a.m.  on  simple  application. 
Virus  against  diphtheria  is  prepared  at  a  branch-establishment  at  Ville- 
neuve-rEtang  (p.  327)  and  is  sold  by  chemists.  In  front  of  the  Institute 
is  the  statue,  by  Truffot,  of  Jupille,  the  shepherd,  str.uggling  with  a  mad 
dog.  (Jupille  is  now  the  concierge  of  the  establishment.)  Putteur  (1822-90) 
is  buried  beneath  the  platform  in  a  spacious  crypt,  adorned  with  marble 
and  mosaics;  visitors  are  admitted  on  the  1st  and  8rd  Sat.  in  each  month 
from  1  to  4  p.m.  Opposite  are  a  new  Institute  /or  Infectious  Diseases  and  a 
large  Biological  Laboratory  belonging  to  the  Pasteur  Institute. 

II.    FROM  THE  OABREFOUR  DE  L'OBBEBVATOIRE  TO   THE  FARO 
M0NT80URI8. 

From  the  Avenue  de  I'Observatoire  the  Rue  Denfert-Rochereau 
leads  to  the  S.,  passing  the  Hospice  des  Enfants  Asaistia  (found- 
lings), to  the  Place  Denfert-Rochereau^  formerly  Place  d'Enfer  (PI. 
G,  It),  adorned  with  a  huge  lion  in  black,  hammered  copper,  by 
bartholdi,  a  replica  of  that  erected  at  Belfort.  Here  also  converge 
the  Boulevard  Raspail  (p.  286),  to  the  right  CN.W.),  leading  to  the 
cemetery  of  3fon<paraasse;  to  the  \ettt\ift  BouUDaTd  AtaQo^  t\ii\- 


13.    THE  CATACOMBS.  289 

ning  to  the  E.  to  the  Avenue  des  Gobelins  (p.  270),  and  the  Boule- 
vard St.  Jacques,  which  Is  continued  by  the  Boulevard  d'ltalie  to 
the  Place  d'ltalie  (p.  270).  In  the  Boul.  Arago  is  a  bronze  statue, 
by  Oliva,  of  Fran^oU  Arago  (1786-1853),  the  astronomer. 

The  Place  Denfert-Roohereau  still  contains  two  pavilions  belong- 
ing to  the  old  city  ^barri^re';  theii  friezes  are  worthy  of  notice.  In 
the  square  beside  the  pavilion  on  the  left  is  a  statue,  by  Al.  Char- 
pentier,  of  Charlet  (1792-1845),  the  painter.  —  In  the  court  of  that 
on  the  right  is  one  of  the  chief  entrances  to  the  Catacombs. 

The  Oataoombs  were  formerly  sabterr&nean  quarries,  worked  as  far 
hack  as  tiie  Boman  period ,  and  yielding  a  soft  kind  of  limestone  which 
hardens  on  exposure  to  the  air.  Visitors  are  admitted  to  the  Catacombs 
at  intervals  (generally  the  Ist  and  3rd  Sat.  of  each  month)  by  the  special 
permission  of  the  Direeteur  des  Travaux,  Hotel  de  Ville.  Each  visitor  must 
carry  a  torch,  which  may  be  bought  at  the  entrance  (60  c),  with  a  guard 
of  cardboard  to  protect  the  clothes  from  the  melting  wax.  Overcoats  and 
thick  shoes  are  desirable.  The  visit  occupies  about  1  hr.,  and  the  exit  is 
made  at  No.  92,  Bne  Darean,  near  the  Avenue  Hontsouris  (PI.  O,  17-20). 

The  Catacombs  extend  under  a  great  part  of  the  quarters  on  the  left  bank. 
Several  streets  in  the  S.  quarters  of  Paris,  situated  above  these  quarries, 
having  begun  in  1T74  to  show  symptoms  of  sinking,  steps  were  taken  by 
government  to  avert  the  danger  by  constructing  piers  and  buttresses  where 
the  upper  surface  was  insufficiently  supported.  About  the  same  time  the 
Council  of  State  ordered  the  removal  of  the  bodies  from  the  Cemetery  of 
the  Innocents,  and  others,  which  were  closed  at  that  period,  to  these  sub- 
terranean quarries.  The  quarries  were  accordingly  converted  into  a  vast 
charnel-house,  and  called  Catacombs.  During  the  Revolution  and  the 
Reign  of  Terror,  immense  numbers  of  bodies  and  bones  brought  from 
various  quarters  were  thrown  in  confused  masses  into  these  cavities ;  but 
in  1810  a  regular  system  was  organised  for  the  more  seemly  disposition 
of  these  remains  and  the  preservation  of  their  resting-place.  The  galleries 
and  different  compartments  are  completely  lined  with  human  bones  and 
skulls,  carefully  arranged,  and  representing,  it  is  said,  six  million  bodies. 
The  other  chief  points  of  interest  are  the  foundations  of  the  Aqueduct  of 
Arcueil  (p.  8&0);  a  spring  ealled  the  'Fontaine  de  la  Samaritaine* ;  a  crypt 
with  an  altar  {  a  small  monument  known  as  the  ^Sepulchral  Lamp";  the 
Tomb  of  Gilbert,  a  cenotaph)  and  various  inscriptions. 

Beyond  the  pavilions  is  the  Oare  de  ParU-Denfert^  formerly 
called  the  Oare  de  Sceaux,  but  no  longer  the  chief  station  in  Paris 
'  for  the  line  to  Sceaux  (see  pp.  25,  358). 

From  the  Place  Denfert-Rochereauthe  Avbnxjb  Montsoukis  leads 
past  this  station  direct  to  the  Pare  de  Hontsouris  (see  below).  A 
more  Interesting,  though  slightly  longer,  route  follows  the  Avenue 
dH  Orlians  to  the  right,  along  which  the  tramway  runs.  This  traverses 
the  Montrouge  quarter,  properly  called  the  Petit-Montrouge.  The 
Grand-Montrouge  is  a  village  outside  the  fortifications. 

The  second  street  to  the  right  leads  from  the  Avenue  d'Orl^ans  to  the 
Squabb  db  Montbodge  (PI.  G,  17),  with  the  Mairis  of  the  14th  Arrow 
dissement.  The  square  is  embellished  with  a  marble  bust  of  the  Republic, 
by  Baffler;  and  with  bronze  figures  of  a  Torch  Bearer  by  SteUer^  a  Horse 
attacked  by  a  tiger  by  Fratin^  and  an  Auvergnat  Peasant  by  Mombur. 

Farther  on,  at  the  corner  of  the  Avenue  d'Orl^ans  and  the  Avenue 
du  Maine,  is  the  church  of  St.  Pierre-de- Montrouge  (PI.  G^  17^  «.  -asft-^^- 
manesque  edifice,  with  a  lofty  tower  teTmiixaXVn^  \ii  «» \Mi\.feTTk.. 

The  Par©  de  KontsonriB  (PI.  Q,  ^i^,  <iom^\<i\fc^  \sv  V^'V^ ,  v»J&q.^^^ 
Babdekeb.  Paris.    UthEdit.  V^ 


290  13.  PARC  MONTSOURIS. 

an  attractive  public  promenade  for  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  but  is 
smaller  and  less  picturesque  than  the  Buttes-Ghaumont  on  the 
N.E.  side.  It  is  about  40  acres  in  area,  adjoins  the  fortifications, 
and  is  intersected  by  the  Sceaux  and  Geinture  lines  of  railway.  On 
the  highest  ground  stands  a  reproduction  of  the  Bardo,  or  palace  of 
the  Bey  of  Tunis ,  a  picturesque  Moorish  edifice ,  now  used  as  an 
observatory.  At  the  foot,  at  the  entrance  from  the  avenue,  is  a 
bronze  figure  representing  4789',  by  Aug.  Paris.  Higher  up  are 
the  Straw  Binder  and  a  Desert  Drama,  bronzes  by  Louit  Pierre  and 
Oardet.  To  the  left,  near  the  Sceaux  railway,  is  an  Obelisk  erected 
to  Colonel  Flatters  and  his  companions,  slain  by  the  Touaregs  in 
1881,  while  making  surveys  with  a  view  to  the  construction  of  a  rail- 
way through  the  Sahara.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  a  lake  fed  by  a 
small  cascade.  Above  the  lake,  in  front  of  a  pavilion,  is  a  marble 
group  by  Etex  (*Les  Naufragtfs');  and  to  the  E.  of  the  Observatory  is 
the  Old  Mother,  a  bronze  group  by  J.  Escoula.  The  park  commands 
an  extensive  view  of  Paris,  particularly  of  the  hill  of  Ste.  Genevieve 
(Pantheon)  and  the  valley  of  the  Bi^vre.  Beyond  the  precincts  of 
the  city,  to  the  S.E.,  are  the  Hospice  and  Fort  de  BicUre.  —  A  mil- 
itary band  plays  in  this  park  on  Sun.  in  summer  (p.  38). 

To  the  W.,  by  the  principal  entrance  to  the  park,  lies  the  large 
Biservoir  de  la  Vanne,  772  &cres  in  area,  with  sides  built  of  solid 
stone,  10  ft.  thick,  and  capable  of  holding  nine  million  cubic  feet 
of  water.  Fully  one-third  of  the  quantity  is  supplied  daily  by  a 
conduit,  7  ft.  in  diameter  and  about  100  M.  in  length,  which  brings 
to  Paris  the  water  of  the  Yanne,  a  stream  rising  in  Ghampagne, 
about  9  M.  from  Troyes.  Visitors  are  admitted  to  inspect  the  re- 
servoir; entrance  in  the  Rue  de  la  Tombe-Issoire. 

The  reservoir  has  two  stories,  the  upper  one  containing  the  principal 
supply ,  the  lower  a  reserve  supply.  The  latter  is  shown  by  one  of  the 
employees  (fee),  but  as  the  vast  interior  is  illuminated  only  by  the  light 
carried  by  the  guide,  the  visitor  receives  but  an  imperfect  idea  of  the 
boldness  of  the  gigantic  construction,  with  its  massive  walls  and  in- 
numerable piers  supporting  the  weight  of  thousands  of  tons  of  water. 
The  top  of  the  reservoir  is  vaulted  over  and  covered  with  tarf :  the  visitor 
may  ascend  to  see  the  water  issuing  from  the  upper  basin  in  a  copious 
stream,  the  purity  of  which  is  secured  by  bringing  it  direct  from  the 
source  through  the  covered  conduit. 

About  250,000,000  fr.  (10,000,0C0;.)  have  recentty  been  spent  on  the  water- 
supply  of  Paris,  and  60,000,000  fr.  are  still  to  be  spent.  The  reservoirs  of 
the  Vanne,  of  the  Dhuis  (p.  187),  and  of  the  Avre  (p.  295)  afford  in  or- 
dinary times  a  supply  of  22  gallons  per  head  of  the  population;  but  in 
summer  there  is  aa  occasional  scarcity,  and  an  addition  to  the  supply  is 
about  to  be  obtained  from  the  Ldng  and  the  Lunain^  a  tributary  and 
sub-tributary  of  the  Seine.  The  plan  of  having  recourse  to  the  Lake  of 
Geneva  has  been  mooted. 

The  Bue  Beaunier,  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  reservoir,  leads  back 
to  the  Avenue  d'Orl^ans,  which  it  joins  near  a  station  of  the  tramway 
(TG)  to  the  Gare  de  TBst  (p.  26)  and  also  near  the  Montrouge  Station  on 
the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Geinture  (Appx.,  p.  34). 

VTe  may  now  return  by  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture  from  Montrouge 
^^j^'e  Pare  MoDtaouria  via  Antenil,  to  the  Qt&te  SV  Laxare  (comp.  Appx., 
P'  34jj  in  the  centre  of  the  town. 


ENVIRONS  OF  PARIS.+ 


14.  St.  Cloud,  Sivres,  and  Meudon. 

I.  FBOK  PAKIS  TO  ST.  OLOTXB. 

By  Bailwfty.  —  The  Idffne  de$  MotOineaftx^  nmning  in  a  loop  between 
the  Oar9  8t.  Lazare  (PI.  B,  18)  and  the  new  Gore  des  Invalides  (PI.  E, 
14;  //),  is  recommended  owing  to  the  convenient  situation  of  its  stations 
at  St  Cloud  »nd  Sevres.  Trains  start  hourly  or  oftener  from  one  or  other 
of  the  above  termini ;  to  St.  Cloud,  30-46  min.  (fare  75  or  60  e.),  to  Sevres, 
30-46  min.  (90  or  60  e.).  —  The  lAgne  de  Versailles  Rive  Droite  has  its 
station  less  conveniently  situated  in  the  upper  part  of  St.  Cloud  (comp. 
Plan,  p.  294):  9Vs  M.,  in  21-34  min.)  fare  76  or  60  c;  no  reduction  on  re- 
tam-tickets. 

LiGNB  DBS  MouLiNBAUT ,  from  the  Oare  8t.  Lazare.  The  train 
passes  under  the  bridge  of  the  Place  de  TEurope.  To  the  right 
is  the  goods -station,  on  the  level  of  the  bridge,  to  which  the 
trucks  are  raised  by  elevators.  We  pass  through  a  short  tunnel. 
To  the  left  Is  the  Ghemln  de  Fer  de  Geinture.  The  fortifications  are 
then  traversed.  —  3  M.  Clichy-LevaUoU.  Clichy,  to  the  right,  with 
numerous  factories,  has  33,900  inhab. ;  LevaUoii-Perret,  to  the  left, 
adjoining  NeuUly,  has  47,300  Inhab.,  largely  workmen  and  employees. 
Racecourse,  see  p.  38  and  Plan  of  Paris  (B,  4-7).  The  train  crosses 
the  Seine. 

33/4  M.  Asni^res  (Cafis  and  BettauranU  at  the  bridge  and  at  the 
station),  a  village  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine,  with  24,300  luhab., 
is  a  favourite  resort  for  boating  and  other  amusements  in  summer. 
The  lines  to  Argenteull  (p.  341),  St.  Qermaln-en-Laye  (p.  326), 
and  Rouen  (p.  396)  diverge  here  to  the  right ,  and  the  St.  Cloud 
line  describes  a  wide  curve  to  the  left. 

Tbahways.  —  Two  tramway-lines  lead  from  the  Place  de  la  Madeleine, 
at  Paris ,  to  Asni&res.  One,  running  to  the  N.E.  of  Levallois-Perret  (see 
above) ,  crosses  the  bridge  near  the  railway ,  and  halts  in  tbe  centre  of 
Asnieres.  The  other  runs  through  Olichy  (see  above)  and  crosses  the 
second  bridge  below  the  railway-bridge,  Vs  ^>  from  the  centre  of  Asnieres. 
This  second  line  is  continued  to  Oennevilliers  (7400  inhab.),  in  the  pen- 
insula of  that  name.  Part  of  the  liquid  brought  hither  by  the  great  sewers 
of  Paris  (p.  64)  is  used  as  manure  for  the  market-gardens  here,  the  rest 
being  carried  under  Uie  Seine  to  be  utilized  for  a  similar  purpose  in  the 
district  between  the  river  and  the  forest  of  St.  Germain  (p.  333).  —  The  tram- 
way from  LevdHlois- Ferret  halts  on  the  opjposite  bank  and  communicates 
with  Asnieres  by  means  of  a  steam-ferry  (o  c),  above  the  railway-bridge. 

41/2  M.  Bicon-leS'Bruyhres.  Branch  to  La  Garenne  (p.  326)  via 
Les  VallSes. 

5  M.  Conrbeyoie,  a  town  with  20,100  inhab.,  contains  numerous 
laundries,  like  other  places  on  the  Seina  li^^t  ^vw^,    TwbVsvv^^ 


f  This  section  may  be  detached  from  \he  xcaV.  oi  \Xi«t  noXwvsv'c.M  ^^'^^^Jl 
ebe  latter  sharply  before  the  Map  and  after  ttift  In^ex.  axv^  xM.xv^va^^^^'*'^^ 
pea-jcmfe  down  the  gt^nze  to  which  the  sheeU  atft  UeXwwt^- 


292  14.   SURESNES.  From  Paris 

tuildiug  to  the  left  of  the  station  is  a  harrack  erected  by  Louis  XV. 
for  his  Swiss  Guards.  Beyond  the  station  the  line  crosses  an  avenue 
that  forms  the  direct  continuation  of  the  Avenue  de  Neuilly  (p.  155). 
The  Arc  de  Triomphe  appears,  21/2  M.  distant.  A  rondel  near  the 
railway  is  embellished  with  a  bronze  group  by  Barrias,  commem- 
orating the  Defence  of  Paris,  Courbevoie  is  united  with  Paris  by 
special  tramways  and  the  tramway  to  St.  Germain-en-Laye  (^comp. 
Appx.  and  p.  328). 

6  M.  Puteaux,  with  19,950  inhab. ,  chemical  and  dye-works, 
artillery  works,  etc.,  is  united  by  a  bridge  across  the  Seine  with  tbe 
Bois  de  Boulogne  and  Neuilly.  —  The  Ligne  des  Moulineaux  diver- 
ges here  from  the  line  to  St.  Cloud  and  Versailles  (see  below).  We 
obtain  a  comprehensive  view  of  Paris ,  the  Bois  de  Boulogne ,  and 
the  Seine.  To  the  S.  are  the  woods  of  Meudon  and  Clamart.  The 
line  descends  to  the  Seine,  traversing  a  short  tunnel. 

7^2  M.  SuresneS'Longchamp  is  the  station  for  Suresnes  and  tbe 
racecourse  of  Longchamp  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  (p.  162).  Suresnes 
{Cafis-Resiaurants  at  the  bridge),  a  village  with  9050  inhab.,  at  the 
base  of  Mont  VaMrien,  was  the  scene  of  the  conferences  result- 
ing in  the  adoption  of  Roman  Catholicism  by  Henri  IV.  A  *Ro8i6re* 
is  crowned  here  on  the  Sun.  nearest  Aug.  2l8t.  The  handsome 
Maine  (1887-1889)  is  in  the  Rue  du  Mont-Val^rien.  A  bridge 
crosses  from  Suresnes  to  Longchamp  (p.  162).  There  is  another 
station  on  the  line  from  St.  Cloud  to  Versailles  (Y4  hr.;  see 
below). 

Hont  Valerien  is  crowned  by  the  most  important  of  the  defensive  forts 
around  Paris ,  660  ft.  above  the  Seine.  In  1870-71  Mont  Valerien  played  a 
prominent  part  in  both  the  sieges  of  Paris.  Admission  to  the  fort,  which 
commands  a  fine  panorama,  is  granted  by  order  only.  We  ascend  by  the 
Bue  (lu  Mont-Valdrien,  take  the  Bue  des  Bonrets  to  the  right,  and  then 
the  turning  to  the  left.  From  the  upper  station  of  St.  Cloud  we  ascend 
by  the  road  below  the  station.    Photographing  or  making  notes  forbidden. 

91/2  M.  St.  Cloud,  station  Pont'de-Si-Cloud  (p.  294). 
The  line  passes  through  a  tunnel  and  a  cutting,  passes  Boulogne 
(to  the  left),  and  skirts  the  park  of  St.  Cloud  (on  the  right),  in 
which  the  cascade  is  visible.  —  10  M.  Sevres  (p.  297),  station 
Pont-de- Sevres,  in  a  cutting  near  the  porcelain-factory  (p.  297).  — 
The  station  of  BelUvue-Funiculaire  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  small  cable- 
railway  to  Belle vue  (p.  298).  —  11  M.  Bas-Meudon  (p.  298). 

12  M.  Les  Moulineaux  J  a  dependency  of  Issy  (p.  296),  on  the 
left  bank  opposite  Billancourt. 

To  the  right  are  Issy  and  the  new  line  to  Versailles  viiViroflay. 
We  now  pass  under  the  Chemln  de  Fer  de  Ceinture,  enter  Paris, 
snd  stop  at  tbe  utations  of  Javel  (at  the  Pont  d*Auteuil;  p.  172), 
J^on/  JUirabeau  (p.  172),  Pont  de  Grencllc  ^^.  VT*X^,  Aoeuu*  de  la 
■Sourdonnais  (station  for  the  Champ-de-^wi^,  ^^^  Poiv\  dA tl  A\««i, 
iQrSIl'   ^e/oiid  a  deep  cutting  (covered.  ^\vt\T\%  iV'Si  ^t^W^'^^^ '^^ 
^i^UOJ,  we  reach  the  Gare  des  Invalids  V.^.^T^\ 


to  St,  aoud.  14.  BOULOGNE.  293 

LiONE  DB  Vebsajllbs  (Rivb  Dboitb)  from  the  Oare  St.  Lazare. 
—  To  (6  M.)  Puteaux,  see  p.  292.  —  71/2  M.  Suretnes  (p.  292); 
tlie  station  is  in  tlie  upper  part  of  the  yillage,  nearer  Mont  Yalerien. 

91/2  M.  St.  Cloud,  station  Montretout  (p.  294).  The  station  is 
sitaated  above  the  town,  which  is  reached  hy  steep  streets,  near  the 
new  quarter  of  Montretout  fp.  295). 


By  Steamboat.  This  route  is  pleasant  in  fine  weather.  Steamers 
start  every  V*  hr.  in  summer,  but  less  frequently  at  other  seasons.  The 
journey  takes  1  hr.  with  and  1 V*  hr.  against  the  stream ;  fare  20  c,  on 
Sun.  and  holidays  40  c;  from  Suresnes  to  St.  Cloud  (2  M.)  on  Sun.,  25  c. 
The  hour  at  which  the  last  steamer  starts  is  posted  at  the  piers.  —  Tra- 
vellers who  start  in  the  afternoon  should  visit  the  factory  at  Sfevres  on 
the  outward  journey. 

The  steamboat  starts  from  the  Pont-Royalj  on  the  Louvre  side. 
Table  of  stations,  etc.,  in  the  Appendix.  For  the  principal  build- 
ings on  the  banks  within  the  city,  see  the  Plan  in  the  Appendix. 
On  both  sides  rise  the  buildings  of  the  Exhibition  of  1900 ;  to  the 
right,  below  the  Pont  de  PAlma,  is  *01d  Paris'  (p.  166).  —  At  the 
lower  end  of  the  lie  dea  Cygnes  is  Bartholdi's  statue  of  Liberty  en- 
lightening the  world  (p.  172).  Fine  view  to  the  left,  on  quitting 
Paris,  of  the  hills  of  Meudon  and  St.  Cloud.  —  To  the  left  is  the 
Llgne  des  Moulineaux,  with  Issy  (p.  302)  beyond  it.  We  pass  the 
lie  St.  Oermain,  with  its  military  stores.  Les  Peupliers  and  BiHan- 
court,  to  the  right,  adjoining  Boulogne  (see  below).  To  the  left,  Les 
Moulineaux  (p.  292).  The  steamer  steers  between  the  He  St.  Ger- 
main and  the  He  Siguin^  on  which  is  a  pigeon-shooting  ground.  — 
Bas-Meudon  (pier) ;  ascent  to  Meudon,  see  p.  306.  —  Funiculaire- 
BeUevue  (pier),  see  p.  298.  Slvres  (p.  303).  To  the  left,  beyond 
the  bridge,  is  the  Porcelain  Factory  (p.  303).  Boulogne  (pier),  to 
the  right  (see  below);  then  the  Grande  Cascade,  and  the  bridge  and 
pier  of  St,  Cloud  (p.  294).  —  The  steamboat  goes  on  to  Suresnes 
(Bois  de  Boulogne ;  p.  292). 


By  Tramway.  6  M.  From  the  Quai  du  Louvre  by  the  united  lines  to 
ht.  Cloud  and  to  Bhvres  and  Versailles  (TAB;  see  Appx.),  starting  every 
1/2  hr.  or  oftener,  in  Mmin.;  fare,  inside  50  c.,  including  correspondance, 
outside  35  c.  At  the  Point-du-Jour  the  cars  separate,  the  front  car  going 
on  to  St.  Cloud,  the  rear-car  to  Sfevres.  This  tramway-line  has  correspon- 
dance with  the  Paris  omnibuses,  but  the  cars  are  usually  quite  full  on 
Sun.  and  holidays,  and  in  summer  on  these  days  it  is  sometimes  difficult 
to  find  a  seat  even  at  the  starting-point  of  the  tramway. 

For  some  distance  the  road  skirts  the  Seine ,  passing  the  Troca- 
d^ro  (p.  169)  and  the  suburbs  of  Paasy  and  AuteuU  (pp.  170, 171), 
with  the  *Pont'Viaduc  d^Auteuil  (j^.  172).  It  then  intersects  the 
fortifications  (the  line  to  Sevres  and  Versailles  diverges  to  the  left), 
traverses  Billancourtj  and  turns  to  the  right  to^ax^^  — 

Boulogne,  n  town  with  37,400  in^aib.,  N?\v\cXi  ^Q^^«i'e»'5i«%^  ^V-^^Ss^- 
some  church  of  the  14th  and  15tli  cent.,  Tft«»XjCiX«k\ m  V^^"^  ijww^^^^- 
vided  with  a  spire.    In  an  adjoining  %<v^«tfe  \^  «^  «X^\.xve.  ^I^^^vv-^ss^ 


294  14.    ST.  CLOUD. 

Palissy  (1610-1689),  by  E.  Barrias.  Electric  tramways  run  hence 
to  Vincennes  and  to  Montreuil.  —  The  tramway-car  now  crosses  the 
Seine.  To  the  right,  beyond  the  attractive  mansions  on  the  qnay, 
we  have  a  fine  view  of  St.  Cloud  and  Mont  Valtfrien  (p.  292).  Lower 
down  the  river,  at  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  (p.  162),  is  the  foot- 
bridge of  the  aqueduct  descending  from  the  reservoir  of  Montretout 
(p.  295).   The  terminus  is  in  the  Place  d'Armes,  near  the  bridge. 

St.  Cloud.  —  Cap6s-Restadkant8,  many  of  them  expensive:  Pavilion 
Bleu^  Place  d'Armes  \  Ca/d-Restaurant  du  ChdteaUy  Place  d'Armes  and  Avenue 
du  Chateau,  d6j.  3,  D.  3V2  fr.?  de  la  Oare,  Place  d'Armes,  d^j.  SVa,  D. 
3  fr. ;  Belvddire,  Quai  President  Camot  12,  moderate. 

St.  Cloud,  a  small  town  with  6376  inhab.,  which  owes  its  name 
to  a  monastery  founded  here  by  St.  Clodoald ,  grandson  of  Clovis, 
and  its  importance  to  its  ancient  chateau ,  destroyed  in  the  war  of 
1870,  rises  in  an  amphitheatre  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine. 

The  Palace  was  erected  in  1672  by  a  wealthy  citizen.  In  1658  it 
was  purchased  and  rebuilt  by  Louis  XIV.,  and  presented  by  him  to 
his  brother  the  Duke  of  Orleans.  In  1782  it  was  bought  by  Louis  XVI. 
for  Marie  Antoinette.  In  one  of  the  saloons  of  the  chftteau,  called  the 
Salle  de  TOrangerie,  the  Council  of  Five  Hundred  once  held  their 
meetings.  On  9th  Nov.,  1799,  Bonaparte  with  his  grenadiers  dispersed 
the  assembly,  and  three  days  later  caused  himself  to  be  proclaimed 
First  Consul.  To  these  reminiscences  of  the  first  rise  of  his  power  was 
probably  due  the  marked  preference  which  the  emperor  always  mani- 
fested for  St.  Cloud.  On  8rd  July,  1815,  the  second  capitulation  of  Paris 
was  signed  at  the  ch&teau,  in.  which  Blttcher's  headquarters  were  estab- 
lished. Here,  too,  on  25th  July,  1830,  Charles  X.  issued  the  famous  pro- 
clamations abolishing  the  freedom  of  the  press,  dissolving  the  Chambers, 
and  altering  the  law  of  elections,  which  caused  the  revolution  of  July. 
St.  Cloud  afterwards  became  the  principal  summer-residence  of  Napo- 
leon  III.  The  town  and  palace,  occupied  by  the  Germans  during  the 
siege  of  Paris  in  1870,  suffered  severely:  the  chateau  and  many  of  the 
houses  were  burned  down  in  October,  1870.  —  Henri  III,  when  besieging 
Paris  in  1589,  pitched  his  camp  at  St.  Cloud,  and  was  assassinated  here 
by  Jacques  Clement. 

From  the  Place  (VArmeSj  at  the  bridge,  two  avenues  lead  to  the 
left ,  and  two  streets  to  the  right.  One  avenue  leads  to  the  lower 
end  of  the  park,  the  other  to  the  upper  end,  passing  the  site  of  the 
palace.  The  streets  lead  to  the  town  and  church.  The  caf^s  in  the 
Place  d'Armes  are  frequently  visited,  especially  on  Sat.  afternoons, 
by  wedding-parties  of  the  humbler  classes  from  Paris. 

The  *Paak  of  St.  Cloud,  965  acres  in  area,  is  the  great  attraction 

of  the  town,  and  affords  a  quiet  and  peaceful  retreat  from  the  bustle 

of  Paris.    In  the  lower  part  is  the  Orande  Cascade,  designed  by  Le- 

pautre  and  Mansart,  and  adorned  with  statues  of  the  Seine  and  the 

Marne  by  Adam.  The  fountains  generally  play  In  summer  from  4  to  5 

or  4.30  to  6.30  on  the  Sundays  on  which  the  Grandes  Eaux  at  Versailles 

{p.  32i)  do  not  play.    The  'Jet  Qiant\  or  great  jet,  to  the  left  of 

the  cascades,  rises  to  the  heiglit  oi  it^  it.   k  mUltaiY  band  plays 

j^  the  park  on  Sun.  and  Thnrs.  in  summw ,  ixom^Vi  1^  ^t^SKS  \a 

4,30  p,m.    Carriages  are  not  allovved  to  feivtei  t\i^  ^wV  ^^^vvx.  %. 

ticket  CI  fr,X  to  be  obtained  at  t\ie  to\>acitoTv\%t^*  tv^w  ^^  >^xA%^. 


^du?  P<Ui -Ibt^LiLim  ^  Etal.dJ  JJjUdPIH 


14.    ST.  CLOUD.  295 

The  Palace  fonneily  stood  at  the  top  of  the  Avenae  du  Chateau, 
to  the  right  as  we  ascend  beside  the  cascade.  A  few  nnimportant 
remains  are  all  that  are  left.  The  site  was  converted  in  1893  into 
a  terrace  with  gardens.  It  commands  a  good  view  of  Paris  (see  helow) ; 
another  good  view  is  obtained  from  the  Troeadiro ,  or  old  private 
garden,  on  the  height  to  the  right.  —  Rest  of  the  park,  see  below. 

The  Church  of  St,  Cloud  is  a  handsome  modem  edifice,  by  Dela- 
rue,  in  the  Gothic  style  of  the  12th  century,  with  a  lofty  spire.  The 
choir  is  adorned  with  mural  paintings  by  J.  Duval-le- Camus  ^  re- 
presenting scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Clodoald.  The  church  also 
contains  some  fine  stained  glass. 

Opposite  the  church  are  the  remains  of  the  abbey  where  St. 
Clodoald  was  interred,  and  adjacent  is  a  handsome  modem  Hdtel  de 
Ville. 

A  little  above  the  church  is  the  Hospice  in  a  little  square,  whence  we  may 
reach  the  station  of  St.  Gloud-Montretout  (p.  293)  by  a  large  flight  of  steps 
to  the  left  or  by  making  a  slight  detour  to  the  right,  passing  the  po5t-office. 

On  the  plateau  beyond  the  station  lies  Montretout,  an  extensive  and 
handsome  modern  suburb  of  St.  Cloud. 

To  the  right  of  this  quarter  is  the  place  of  the  same  name,  known  in 
connection  with  the  last  grand  sortie  of  the  garrison  of  Paris,  on  Jan. 
19th,  1871.  A  redoubt,  established  here  by  the  Germans  in  connection 
with  the  heights  of  Buemval^  was  captured  by  the  assailants,  who  even 
occupied  some  of  the  houses  of  St.  Cloud  *,  but  they  were  unable  to  effect 
anything  against  the  main  position  of  the  Prussians  at  Qarches  and  La 
Bergerie^  and  were  compelled  to  evacuate  the  redoubt  the  same  evening, 
after  suffering  heavy  losses. 

At  the  end  of  Montretout  nearest  to  Suresnes,  to  the  left  of  the  Boule- 
vard de  Versailles,  is  the  Beaervoir  de  Montretout  or  de  VAvre^  a  gigantic 
work  resembling  the  Reservoir  de  la  Vanne  at  Paris  (p.  290).  The  aque- 
duct which  feeds  this  reservoir  begins  near  Verneuil  (Eure),  63  H.  distant, 
and  for  16  M.  of  its  length  runs  in  subterranean  galleries,  some  of  which 
are  230  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  ground.  The  water  is  conveyed  to 
Paris  by  a  subterranean  canal,  crossing  the  Seine  beneath  the  new  foot- 
bridge between  St.  Cloud  and  Suresnes. 

The  AlUe  du  Chdteau ,  which  ascends  in  the  Park  of  St.  Cloud 
to  the  S.  of  the  terrace  on  the  site  of  the  palace,  leads  to  the  sum- 
mit of  a  small  hill  (5  min.  from  the  palace) ,  which  commands  an 
admirable  *View.  Far  below  flows  the  Seine;  to  the  left  is  the  bridge 
of  St.  Cloud ;  beyond  it  the  Bois  de  Boulogne ,  higher  up  the  river 
is  the  small  town  of  Boulogne ;  to  the  right  is  Meudon;  in  the  back- 
ground is  Montmartre,  with  the  Church  of  the  Sacred  Heart ;  from 
among  the  houses  of  Paris  rise  the  Arc  de  TEtoile,  St.  Vincent-de- 
Paul,  the  dome  of  the  Invalides,  the  Palais  du  Troeadiro,  the  Eiffel 
Tower,  the  Great  Wheel,  St.  Sulpice,  the  Pantheon,  the  dome  of  the 
Val-de-Grace,  and  other  buildings. 

The  broad  central  avenue  (right)  which  diverges  from  the  top  of  the 
hill  leads  to  (V4  M.)  Ville-d' Avray ,  a  station  on  the  VersaUles  railway 
(p.  298).    The  All^e  du  Chateau,  which  we  have  beftxi  inWcywviv^ .,  V».^^ 
in  6  min.  more  to  the  small  town  of  Sitres.    'V\a\\.OT%  N.^  X>c^^  -^qt^'^^v^- 
mann factory  take  the  footpath  descending  lo  V\ift\felV.V^."^.^.  —  ^^^''^^Svk 
way  down  is  the  J'amUon  de  Breieuil.  seat  o£  \Aift  '•ComTo\%%V«i^  voxe^"*-^ 
nale  da  Metre'  (no  admission).  ^^^ 

From  St.  Cloud  to  S/.,  Germain  via  MarXy-Xe-Roi,  ^e^e^  ^  '^►i^- 


296  14.    VILLE-D'AVRAY.  From  ParU 

II.  FROM  PABIS  TO  Sii'TKES. 
By  Bailway.  —  Ligne  de»  iioulineaux,  preferable  to  the  following 
(comp.  below),  10  M.,  in  30-46  min.  \  fare  90  or  60  c.  —  Ligne  de  VertaiUu 
Hive  Oauehe,  starting  from  the  Oare  Montpamcuse  (p.  26),  6  H.,  in25-S0iniii.; 
fare  75  or  50  c.  The  station  of  this  line  at  Sevres  is  in  the  upper  part 
of  the  town  (comp.  the  Map),  and  it  is  therefore  better  to  alight  at  BeUevuB 
(same  fares),  between  Sevres  and  Meudon,  which  is  nearer  the  porcelain 
factory.  —  Ligne  de  Vergailles  Rive  Droite  (Gare  St.  Lazare),  IOV2  M.,  in 
26-40  min. ;  fare  90  or  60  c.  The  station  for  S6vres  is  at  ViUe-d'Avrajf,  at 
the  top  of  the  part  of  Sevres  to  the  W.  of  the  park  of  St.  Glond,  about 
1  M.  from  the  porcelain  factory. 

Ligne  des  Moulineaux,  from  the  Gare  St, Lazare,  pp.291,  292. 

Ligne  de  Versailles  Rive  Gauche.  —  This  line  crosses  and 
corresponds  with  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture  at  the  (IY4  M.) 
Ouest-Ceinture  station  (see  Appx.).  —  2  M.  Vanves-Malakoffj  be- 
tween Vanves,  to  the  right  (see  below),  and  Malakoff  (p.  349).  On 
the  left  and  right  of  the  line  rise  the  forts  of  Vanves  and  Issy. 

3  M.  Clamart.  The  station  is  1/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  village, 
to  which  a  tramway  plies  (10  c). 

Clamart  is  also  connected  with  Paris  by  a  tramway-line  (terminus  in 
the  Place  St.  Germain-des-Pr€s).  This  tramway  passes  lasy-Les-Houlineaux 
(14,000  inhab.),  with  the  Hospice  des  Manages,  some  religious  housea,  and 
a  small  ruined  chateau.  The  Champ  de  Manoeuvres  d^Issy,  for  the  garrison 
of  Paris,  lies  towards  the  Seine,  near  the  Ligne  des  Moulineaux.  (Steam- 
boats, see  p.  293.1  The  tramwav  then  skirts  the  Lycie  Jfichelet,  in  a 
chateau  of  the  Cond^s,  built  in  1693,  and  traverses  the  village  of  Vanvet 
(8740  inhab.). 

Clamart,  a  village  with  6300  inhab.  and  numerous  country-honses ,  if 
comparatively  uninteresting.  The  Hospice  Ferrari^  a  large  establishment 
for  old  men,  is  due  to  the  munificence  of  the  Duchess  of  Galli^ra  (d.  1888; 
p.  299).  A  monument  in  the  Place  Marquis  commemorates  the  founders  of 
the  Hospice  Schneider  here.  The  Bois  de  Clamart  is  part  of  the  Bois  de 
Meudon  (p.  293).  It  may  be  reached  direct  from  the  end  of  the  village 
(Map,  p.  298). 

The  line  skirts  the  hills  above  the  Seine.  Fine  view,  to  the 
right,  of  Paris  and  the  river  a  little  before  Meudon  and  atBellevne. 
The  train  crosses  the  river  by  a  viaduct  120  ft.  high. 

41/2  M.  Meudon,  see  p.  298.  —  51/2  M.  BelUvue,  see  p.  298.  — 
61/4  M.  Shvres  (see  p.  297). 

Ligne  de  Versailles  Rive  Dboite.  —  To  (91/2  M.)  8t,  Cloud- 
Montretouty  see  p.  293.  —  The  train  passes  through  several  tunnels. 
To  the  right  diverges  a  branch  to  Marly-le-Roi  (p.  327).  Tunnel. 

i0y2  ^' Shwes-ViUe-d'Avray,   iSf^rrea,  see  p.  297.   The  village 

of  Ville-d'Avray  (^Restaurant  de  la  Chaumihre^  rather  expensive) 

is  charmingly  situated  to  the  right.     The  Villa  des  Jardies,  onee 

occupied  by  Balzac  and  the  scene  of  Gambetta^s  death ,  is  near 

the  railway.  A  monument,  by  Bartholdi,  with  a  statue  of  Gambetta 

and  SguTes  of  Alsace  and  Lorraine ,  has  been  erected  here ,  and 

contains  the  heart  of  Gamhetta.    Tlie  Cliurch  contains  models  of 

statues  by  Pradieiy   Kude,  and  Buret,  a.  ^\^  Sei^m^  wi^  wq«»V 

9wa2/  pictures  hy  Corot ,   an  Ecce  Homo  \J1  k\\%,  Bftw<i^  «te..  \^ 

^e  middle  of  the  village  stands  a  Chdteau,  ^».\.\tv% tt^m  V5sa  «ii^  ^1 


toShvres.  14.    SilYRES.  297 

the  18th  century.  Near  the  end  of  the  Rue  de  Versailles,  to  the 
left,  are  the  picturesque  Ponda,  a  Monument  to  Corot  (1796-1875), 
in  whose  paintings  they  figure  so  often,  and  the  above-mentioned 
Restaurant  de  la  Chaumi^re.    Comp.  the  Map,  p.  298. 


By  Steamer,  as  for  St.  Cloud,  p.  293. 

By  Tramway,  V/2  M.,  in  43  min.,  fare  50  or  35  c.  From  the  Quai  du 
Louvre  by  the  united  lines  to  St.  Cloud  and  to  Sivres  and  Versailles  {TAB; 
see  Appx.),  see  p.  293.  —  The  terminus  at  Sfevres  is  at  No.  96  Grande  Rue, 
*/i  M.  from  the  porcelain  factory,  and  at  the  corner  of  the  road  to  (1/2  M.) 
Ville-d'Avray  (p.  298). 

The  tramway-route  as  far  as  the  fortifications  has  been  described 
at  p.  293.  We  then  diverge  to  the  left  from  the  St.  Cloud  line, 
traverse  Billaneourt  (office,  Route  de  Versailles,  No.  39),  and  cross 
the  Seine  to  Shvres. 

S^yres.  —  CAFfts-EESTAURANXS  (all  unpretending).  Ca/4  de  la  Terrafse, 
Grande  Bne  27,  at  the  Avenue  de  Bellevue,  d^j.  21/2,  D.  3  fr.j  Estaminet 
Parisien,  Grande  Rue  61,  opposite  the  Hotel  de  Villej  C(^i- Restaurant  du 
Nord,  near  the  porcelain  factory,  ddj.  21/2,  D.  3  fr. 

Sevres,  with  7300  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Seine  and  on  the  road  to  Versailles.   The  celebrated  — 

*PoB,CBLAiN  Mantjpactory  has  been  the  property  of  government 
since  i759,  and  now  occupies  a  building  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
park  of  St.  Cloud,  near  the  bridge.  At  the  entrance  is  a  bronze 
statue,  by  Barrias,  of  Palissy,  a  reproduction  of  the  statues  in  Paris 
(p.  253)  and  Boulogne  (p.  294). 

The  Workshops  are  open  to  visitors  on  Mon.,  Thurs.,  &  Sat.  (12  to 
4  or  5),  by  tickets  obtained  on  written  application  to  the  Secretariat 
des  Beaux- Arts,  Rue  de  Valois  3  (Palais-Royal),  Paris,  or  to  the 
manager  at  the  factory ;  but  those  without  tickets  are  generally  able 
to  join  a  party.  The  Exhibition  Booms  and  the  Musie  Ceramique  are 
open  to  the  public  daily  (12  to  4  or  5).  The  entrance  is  on  the  side 
next  the  Seine.  Sticks  and  umbrellas  must  be  given  up  (no  fee). 

The  Workshops  are  on  the  whole  uninteresting,  for  the  processes  of 
painting,  moulding,  and  enamelling  are  not  shown.  A  few  workmen  in  a 
special  room  give  the  visitors  an  idea  of  the  principal  operations  in  the 
manufacture,  and  some  of  the  furnaces  are  shown.  —  The  manufactory 
has  exercised  a  highly  beneficial  effect  on  the  ceramic  industry  in  France. 
Various  new  processes,  new  tints,  and  new  varieties  of  porcelain  have 
been  invented  here;  and  the  secrets  of  these  discoveries  are  freely  com- 
municated to  other  factories  in  France. 

The  four  ^Exhibition  Rooms  (Exposition  des  Produits  de  Shares),  to  the 
right  of  the  vestibule,  contain  products  of  the  manufactory  which  are  fur 
sale.    The  large  vases  and  the  copies  of  paintings  are  specially  admired. 

The  ^Huaee  Oeramique  (catalogue  6  fr. ;  short  guide  i  fr.)  occupies  the 
first  floor  of  the  main  building.   On  the  staircase  is  a  bronze  figure  repre- 
senting ^Porcelain**,  by  Guillaume.    The  chief  hall,  which  we  enter  firsts 
contains  the  largest  and  most  remarkable  vases  made  ^1  ^^Nt^%  ^-^^  \ft\vx 
pieces  of  Gobelins  tapestry;  and  also  a  glasa-caaft  w\\.\i  %Qm^  «x\xt-«v^l  ">^- 
teresting specimena  ofamaller  objects.  Tbe  coWecUouVa  wtxw^^^^^'v'svSJsifc  *^'^ 
galleries  at  the  sidea,  beginning  on  the  right.  TYve  ey\i\\>VV%\>^^^  ^^^^^^Jt  ^^^ 
labels.    The  specimena  of  early  Sfevres  ware  ,  \ti  v:^<i  toottv  \.o  V\v^  ^^^^^^  "*- 
specially  noteworthy. 


298  14.   MEUDON. 

Farther  on  in  the  Grande  Rue,  to  the  left,  is  the  Old  Manufac- 
tory ^  now  restored  as  a  Normal  School  for  female  teachers.  A  little 
farther  on  are  the  Churchy  and,  to  the  right,  the  Hdtel  de  ViUe^  formerly 
the  mansion  of  the  Dukes  of  Brancas,  containing  some  inteiestlng 
wood-carvings,  paintings,  and  sculptures  (restored  in  1892). 

The  Avenue  de  Bellevue,  near  the  manufactory,  soon  brings  us 
to  Bellevue  (rail,  station  and  cahle-railway,  see  below),  which  owes 
its  origin  to  a  chllteau  of  Mme.  de  Pompadour ,  of  which  little  is 
left.  The  handsome  villas,  recently  erected  here,  unfortunately  too 
often  interrupt  the  fine  views  of  the  Seine.  The  best  point  of  view 
is  at  the  N.E.  end  of  the  Avenue  MSlaniCj  from  a  terrace  above  the 
former  park  of  the  chateau,  which  has  been  subdivided.  Near  this 
point  is  the  Hdtel- Restaurant  de  la  THe  Noire;  and  farther  to  the 
S.K.,  near  the  cable-railway  (see  below),  are  the  Hdtel  Pavilion  de 
Bellevue  and  a  tasteful  bronze  fountain  by  C.  Theunissen. 

The  Grande  Bue  de  Bellevue ,  which  crosses  the  last-named  avenue, 
leads  to  the  railway-station,  11/4  M.  from  the  main  street  of  Sevres,  beyond 
which  begins  the  Avenue  de  Heudon  (see  below). 

III.   FEOH  PASIS  TO  KETJSON. 

By  Railway.  —  Liffne  de  Versailles  Rive  Qauche  (Gare  Hontparaasse), 
5  M. ,  in  20  min.;  fare  60  or  10  c.  —  Ligne  des  Moulineaux  (p.  29l)  to  Bas- 
Meudon  or  Bellevue- FtmiojUaire  (p.  292),  11  H.,  in  >/«  hr.{  fare  90  or  CO  c. 

By  Steamboat.    To  Bas-Meudon  or  SivreSj  as  for  St.  Cloud  (p.  293). 

A  Cablb-Bailwat  (660  ft.)  was  opened  in  1893  between  the  stations  of 
the  railway  and  steamers  at  Bas-Meudon  and  Bellevue  (see  above);  fare  10  c. 
up  or  down,  on  Sun.  up  20  c,  down  10  c. 

Meudon.  —  Caf^sBbstauramts :  at  Meudon,  in  the  Avenue  de 
Meudon  and  at  the  upper  station.  In  the  wood:  at  the  Ermitage  de  Ville- 
boiij  IV2M.  from  the  terrace;  and  at  the  Capsulerie  (p.  299). 

Meudon ,  a  small  town  with  8900  Inhab. ,  consists  of  Meudon 
proper,  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  which  is  crowned  by  the  chlteau ;  of 
a  new  quarter  near  the  station  of  Meudon,  with  numerous  prettily 
situated  villas ;  of  Bas-Meudon ,  on  the  bank  of  the  Seine,  with 
several  manufactories ;  of  Le  Valy  to  the  E. ;  a  little  higher  up ;  and 
of  Fleury ,  with  its  large  orphanage  (p.  299),  on  the  slope  of  the 
Bois  de  Glamart  (see  pp.  296  and  299). 

The  first  ch&teau  at  Meudon  belonged  in  the  16th  cent,  to  the  Duchesse 
d'Etampes,  mistress  of  Francis  I.,  and  after  changing  hands  several  times 
was  bought  by  Louis  XIV.  It  then  became  the  residence  of  the  Dauphin, 
who,  however,  built  a  second  ch&teau  in  the  neighbourhood,  though  the 
former  one  was  not  finally  demolished  till  1803.  The  second  chiteau, 
afterwards  occupied  by  the  Empress  Marie  Louise,  the  King  of  Rome, 
and  lastly  Prince  Napoleon,  was  set  on  fire  by  a  shell  and  reduced  to  a 
heap  of  ruins  during  the  Prussian  bombardment  of  Paris  in  1871.  It  has 
since  been  partly  restored. 

The  Terr&ce  and  the  Bois  are  the  chief  attractions  of  Meudon. 

At  the  iDtersection  of  the  Avenue  J&ftc\\jiem\iiot.^'vMch.  leads  from  the 

station,  and  the  Rue  de  laR^pTi\>\i(\.\ie,'v\A<i^^*'''«t%«i%^^^«^^wi> 

l^  a  Bronte  Bust  of  RahtlaU  C14B3-ibb^^/ e,xw4  ^^U^Tv^wi^V«^ 

^rupb^me.     The  Avenue  Jacquetnlwot  eu^%  *.V  ^V^  ^"^^w^^  ^  *^'^- 


i&\ 


ri 


■o   * 


:^"r 


,-E   ■■■■  -' 


(w\ 


I""*    ^-'^-''^^:w-F     /..        .'."      ^  <t    ■"■--•13!  ";'■ 


14.  MEUDON.  299 

don  (or  du  Chdteau)^  "bordered  by  four  rows  of  lime-trees,  which  "be- 
gins at  Bellevue  (p.  298),  beyond  the  railway  on  the  left  bank,  about 
1/2  M.  from  the  terrace.  At  the  beginning  of  the  latter  is  a  Monu- 
ment du  Centenaire,  a  symbolical  bronze  bust  by  Courbet  (1889). 

The  ♦Terrace  of  Meudou,  supported  by  huge  walls,  commands  a 
beautiful  *  View  of  Paris.  The  public  are  not  admitted  to  the  re- 
mains of  the  chateau,  now  an  Observatory. 

The  Boifl  de  Mendon  (Maps,  opposite  and  p.  300),  part  of  which 
is  enclosed  as  the  Park  of  the  chliteau,  lies  on  the  heights  between 
Meudon  and  the  valley  of  Sevres,  Chaville,  and  Viroflay,  and  on  the 
heights  on  the  other  side  of  the  valley  of  Meudon ,  this  latter  part 
being  also  named  the  Bois  de  Clamart,  The  wood,  is  intersected  by 
pleasant  paths  (flnger-posts) ,  but  otherwise  has  been  left  pretty 
much  in  a  state  of  nature.  The  ground  is  hilly  between  the  parts 
known  as  the  Bols  de  Meudon  and  Bols  de  Glamart  and  on  the  skirts 
of  the  wood,  except  to  the  S.,  where  it  is  bordered  by  a  plain  on 
the  other  side  of  which  is  the  Bois  de  Verriftres  (p.  352). 

From  the  terrace  the  wood,  is  reached  by  means  of  an  iron  staircase 
against  the  wall  farthest  from  Paris  and  a  walk  traversing  the  Parfc, 
the  rest  of  which  is  not  open  to  the  public.  From  the  lower  end  of 
the  Avenue  de  Meudon  or  from  Bellevue ,  we  ascend  by  the  Pav^ 
des  Gardes  and  join  the  routes  from  Sevres  at  the  Capsulerie.  From 
Meudon,  or  from  the  exit  from  the  garden  at  the  end  of  the  terrace, 
we  may  either  follow  the  valley  straight  on  to  the  part  of  the  wood 
beyond  the  park,  or  follow  the  Rue  des  Vertugadins  to  the  left,  to 
the  Bois  de  Glamart. 

Between  the  laat  two  paths  lies  the  Fare  dt  Chakney  in  which  is  the 
School  of  Military  Aerosiaticg  (no  admission). 

On  the  K.  verge  of  the  Bois  de  Glamart,  above  the  hamlet  of  Fleury, 
is  the  lai^e  and  conspicnons  OrpJutnage  of  8(,  Philippe^  founded  by  the 
.late  Dnchesse  de  Galli^ra  ^.296). 

15.  Vincennes  and  its  Environs. 

The  chief  point  of  interest  here  is  the  Boit  de  Vincennes ,  somewhat 
in  the  style  of  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  reached  either  via  Vincennes,  to  the 
N.,  or  via  Charenion,  to  the  S.  The  Chdteau  of  Vincennes  is  closed  to 
the  puhlic,  and  only  the  outside  can  be  seen  (p.  303). 

I.  FEOH  PARIS  TO  VINOENNES  SIEECT. 
By  Tramway.  5  M.  From  the  Place  du  Louvre  to  Vincennes  {TC;  see 
-Appx.,  p.  26),  in  1  hr.;  fares,  inside  40  c.  (including  correspondancc), 
outside  20  c.  The  remarks  on  the  St.  Cloud  tramway  (p.  293)  are  appli- 
cable to  this  line  also.  —  The  tramways  from  the  Louvre  and  from  St. 
Avgustin  to  the  Coure  de  Vincennes  stop  at  the  fortifications,  I74  M.  from 
the  chateau  ^  but  the  tramway  from  l^ogent  (p.  ^6)  may  be  taken  thence 
to  the  chateau  (15  or  10  c). 

The  TiiAMWAT  FBOM  THE  LouvuB  TO  ViNCBNNBS  ruus  by  the 
Quays,  which  command  views  of  the  Palais  de  3\i*\\?,^.»  ^^"l^s^^oxsaS. 
de  Oommerce,  tbc  H^tel-Dieu,  and  l?otTe-T>».TXift  ^ixv  ^^  ^\\.€.^Nr»  "<^^ 


300  15.    PLACE  DE  LA  NATION. 

right  J  aud  of  the  Place  du  Chatelet  with  its  theatres  and  fountain, 
the  Tour  St.  Jacques,  the  Hotel  da  Ville,  etc.,  to  the  left.  It  then 
turns  to  the  left  into  the  Boul.  Henri  IV.  (p.  72),  passes  the  Place 
de  la  Bastille  (p.  70) ,  and  follows  the  Rue  du  Faubourg -St- An- 
toine.  In  the  quarter  traversed  by  this  street  the  principal  in- 
dustry is  the  manufacture  of  furniture,  for  which  there  is  even  a 
special  school,  viz.  the  Ecole  BouUe,  Roe  de  Reuilly  25  (PI.  R,  28). 
On  the  right  in  the  Uue  du  Faubourg-St-Antoine  are  the  Hdpital 
Trousseau  (for  children),  the  Hdpital  8t,  Antoine,  and  the  Orphan- 
age for  Workmen's  Children. 

The  Place  de  la  Nation  (PI.  R,  31),  formerly  the  Place  du  Trdne, 
at  the  end  of  this  street,  forms  the  E.  extremity  of  Paris,  while  the 
Place  de  TEtolle  forms  the  N.W.  end,  upwards  of  4^^  M.  distant.  A 
bronze  group  by  Dalou,  representing  the  Triumph  of  the  Bepublic^ 
was  unveiled  in  the  centre  of  the  'place'  in  Nov.,  1899;  the  flgnre 
of  the  Republic  is  seated  in  a  chariot  drawn  by  lions  and  escorted 
by  the  genius  of  Liberty,  while  to  the  right  and  left  are  personifi- 
cations of  Labour  and  Justice;  behind  is  the  goddess  of  Abundance. 
The  surrounding  buildings  are  uninteresting,  with  the  exception 
perhaps  of  the  Ecole  Arago,  a  superior  municipal  school  opened  in 
1880.  About  a  dozen  different  streets  radiate  from  this  point,  but 
the  traffic  is  insignificant.  In  1660,  after  the  conclusion  of  the 
Peace  of  the  Pyrenees,  Louis  XIY.  received  the  homage  of  the 
Parisians  on  a  throne  erected  here,  and  from  that  event  the  'place' 
derived  its  former  name.  The  two  lofty  fluted  Doric  columns  erected 
here  on  the  site  of  the  old  barri^re  were  begun  in  1788,  but  not 
completed  till  1847.  Each  is  adorned  with  two  bas-reliefs  by  Des- 
boeufs  and  Simart.  Those  next  the  town  represent  Commerce  and 
Industry,  those  on  the  other  side  Victory  and  Peace ;  and  they  are 
surmounted  with  bronze  statues  of  St.  Louis,  by  Etex,  and  Philippe 
le  Bel,  by  Dumont.  Beyond  the  columns  begins  the  Cours  de  Vin~ 
cennes,  a  broad  avenue  leading  direct  to  Viucennes  (to  the  chllteaa 

18/4  M.). 

The  Foire  au  Pain  d^Epices^  or  ^gingerbread  fair\  held  in  the  Place 
de  la  Nation  and  in  the  Cours  during  three  weeks  after  Easter,  always 
presents  a  very  lively  scene. 

Tramway-lines  run  from  the  Place  de  la  Nation  to  St.  Angustin,  La 

Villette,  the  Place  Valhnbert  (Jardin  des  Plantes),  and  Montreuil  (p.  90&). 

The  Vincennes  tramway  next  traverses  the  Boul.  de  Picpns  and 

the  Avenue  de  St.  Mand^,  passing  the  station  of  that  name  on  the 

Vincennes  railway. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Avenue  de  St.  Mand^,  Bue  de  PIcpus  85,  is  the  small 

Cemetery  of  Picpus  (PI.  G,  31 ;  adm.  50  c),  which  contains  the  tombs  of 

members   of  some  of  the  oldest  families  in  France.    In  one  comer  is  the 

tomb  of  La/ay etle  (d.  1834  \  the  guardian  keeps  a  visitors'  book).    At  the 

end  i3  the  'Cimetikre  des  Guillotines',  wYvet^  1300  victims  of  the  Revolu- 

tjon,  executed  at  the  Barrifere  du  Trone,  w^  V^VetT^^.    kmotk^  \^Qae  are 

tfie  poet  Andr4  CA^nier.  the  chemist  Lovottier ,   Qtnwa\  B«»!iflwwrMi\*^  «A 

'-Gpreaentativea  of  many  noble  famiUea. 

At  St.  MandU,   to  the  S.,  a  ^rma^e.  n^VV^i  V^,^1^  V^Vife^>  «^  ^^^ 


15.    BERCY.  301 

asylams  for  old  men,  and  a  cemetery  containing  a  statue  in  bronze, 
by  David  d'Angera,  of  Armand  Carrel  (d.  1836),  who  was  killed  in 
a  duel  by  Emile  de  Girardin.  About  2  min.  from  the  station  is  the 
pretty  Lac  de  St.  Mand6  (p.  304).  The  tramway  then  runs  near  the 
Bois  de  Vincennes,  skirts  the  railway,  turns  to  the  right  into  Vin- 
cenneB,and,  passing  the  chUeau,  haltsin  theCours  Marlgny  (p.  303). 

By  Bailway,  3^4  M.  Chemin  de  Ftr  de  Vincenne*  from  the  station  at 
the  Bastille  (PI.  E,  26),  in  about  1/4  hr.  j  fare  45  or  30  c.   Trains  every  V4  hr. 

The  railway  is  carried  on  arches  alongside  the  Avenue  Daumesnil 
and  passes  two  stations  within  the  fortifications,  viz.  Reuilly ,  near 
the  Place  Daumesnil  (see  below),  and  Bel-Air^  at  the  junction  with 
the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture  (correspond. ;  see  Appx.  p.  34).  The 
next  station  is  8t.  MandS  (see  above),  near  the  wood  (comp.  Map). 

3^/4  M.  Vincennes.  The  station  is  in  the  Rue  de  Montreuil, 
which  leads,  on  the  right,  to  the  chateau  (p.  303).  The  Rue  du 
Midi,  opposite  the  station,  leads  to  the  Cours  Marigny  (p.  303).  — 
Continuation  of  the  railway  along  the  wood,  see  p.  306. 

II.  FBOH  FABIS  TO  VINOENNEB  VIA  CHABENTON. 

By  Tramway.    1.  From  the  Quai  du  Louvre  to  Charenton  (TK);   fare, 

inside  50  c,  including  correspondance,  outside  25  c.  —  2.  From  the  Place 

de  la  Ripvblique  to  Charenton  (T7);  same  fares.  — 3.  From  the  Battille  to 

Charenton  (Tr,  Sud^  electric),  fares  35,  80  c,  with  correspondance  45,  40  c. 

The  Tbaitwat  fbom  thb  Loutbe  to  Chasbnton  follows  the  Rues 
de  BivoU  and  St.  Antoine  (pp.  61,  69),  passes  the  BastiUe  (p.  70), 
then  turns  to  the  right,  skirts  the  Bassin  de  V Arsenal^  formed  by 
the  Canal  St.  Martin  (p.  72),  and  reaches  the  quays  on  the  right 
bank  at  the  Pont  d^Austerlitz  (p.  264).  On  the  opposite  bank  are 
the  Jardin  des  Plantes  (p.  264)  and  the  Gare  d'OrMans  (p.  26). 
Farther  on  are  the  Fonts  de  Berey  and  de  TolbiaCj  and  on  the  right 
bank  the  huge  Wine  Stores  of  Berey  (PI.  G,  28,  29),  larger  than 
those  near  the  Jardin  des  Plantes.  Passing  the  Pont  National^  half 
of  which  is  used  by  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture,  we  reach  the 
fortifications,  beyond  which ,  also  on  the  right  bank,  are  the  Ma- 
gasins  OSnSraux  des  Vins  (PI.  G,  33).  Then  the  Pont  d'Jvry  or  Pont 
de  ConflanSj  crossing  the  Seine  to  Ivry  (p.  358).  Conflans  and  Les 
CarHhreSy  which  we  next  pass,  are  parts  of  Charenton  (see  p.  302). 
The  tramway-terminus  is  in  the  lower  part  of  the  village,  less  than 
1/2  M.  from  the  entrance  to  the  Bois  (p.  304). 

The  Tbamway  fsom  thb  Place  de  laR]6publiqub  to  Chaeenton 
follows  the  Orands  Boulevards  to  the  BastiUe  (p.  70),  turns  to  the 
left  by  the  Faubourg  St,  Antoine,  then  to  the  right  by  the  Rue  Cro- 
zatier,  passing  the  rear  of  the  Hopital  St,  Antoine,  and  follows  the 
Bue  de  Charenton.  Outside  the  city  the  line  skirts  t\i«k'ft^\&^^^\s^.- 
cennes  (p.  304).  The  terminus  at  Charenton  U  Vcv  VX^^  ^X'iw^'^  ^^^^^ 
£!cole8  (PL  Qj  36),  nearer  the  Bois  t^aiv  t\iek  ^Tft^i^Wtv^. 

The  Tramway  fbom  thb  Bastilm  to  OaKKa^-^o^  ^'^^ST'^^^^^' 
Avenue  Daumesnil  to  the  right  oi  the  laiVw  vj  ^^  ^^^  ^^  ^^^ 


302  15.   CHARENTON. 

Daumesnil^  which  is  adorned  with  a  bronze  fountain  with  lions. 
We  enter  the  Bois  between  St.  Mande  (p.  300)  and  the  Lac  Laumes- 
nil  (p.  305) ,  and  halt  in  the  upper  part  of  Charenton  (see  below). 

By  Steamer.  Steamers  between  Auteuil  and  Charenkm,  from  any  pier 
on  the  left  bank  within  the  city  (exceptions ,  see  Appx. ,  p.  35)  to  Cha- 
renton j  fare  20  c.  on  week-days,  25  c.  on  Snn.j  from  the  Pont  d'Ansterlitz 
only,  10  or  15  c. 

To  the  Pont  cCAuaterUtz  (Jardin  des  Plantes),  see  p.  264.  The 
steamboat  Journey  is  pleasant  in  fine  weather,  especially  in  summer, 
but  offers  no  particular  features  of  interest.  Bridges  and  warehouses, 
see  p.  301.  Beyond  the  Pont  de  Conflans  (p.  301)  we  finally  quit 
the  Seine  for  the  Mame ,  near  a  lateral  Canal,  pass  under  the  Pa^- 
serelle  cf  Alfortville  and  the  Lyons  line,  which  has  a  station  at  Cha- 
renton (see  the  Map),  touch  at  Alfortville  (see  below),  and  reach 
the  Pont  de  Charenton, 

Charenton  (Cafi  de  la  Terrane,  Cafe  du  Ponty  both  at  the  bridge) ; 
*R€Staurant  Baratj  Rue  de  St.  Mand^  64,  unpretending),  situated 
between  the  Bois,  the  Mame,  and  the  Seine,  a  place  with  16,800 
inhab.  (including  Conflans  and  Les  Carrihred),  is  now  chiefly  known 
for  its  Lunatic  Asylum  (see  below).  Its  most  interesting  part  is 
near  the  Bois. 

In  1606  a  Protestant  church  was  erected  at  Charenton  with  the  sanc- 
tion of  Henri  IV.,  but  it  was  destroyed  in  1685,  after  the  Bevocation  of 
the  Edict  of  Nantes. 

A  little  farther  on  is  8t.  Maurice,  with  the  LunoHe  Atylum  of  Charen- 
ton, an  extensive  building  dating  from  1830,  with  arcades  and  roofs  in 
the  Italian  style,  rising  picturesquely  on  the  slope  of  the  plateau  occupied 
by  the  Bois  de  Yincennes.  It  is  rather  more  than  1/4  M.  frOm  the  bridge. 
In  the  Place  de  la  Mairie  is  a  Monument  to  Eugene  Delaeroix  (1798-1863), 
the  painter,  who  was  born  at  St.  Maurice ^  bust  by  Dalon.  Tramway, 
see  below. 

On  the  left  bank  is  Alfortville  (11,630  inhab.),  with  the  Veterinary 
College  of  Alfort, 

FaoM  Ch^bbnton  to  St.  Mauk  {La  Yaremnt)^  21/2  M.,  tramway  pro- 
pelled by  compressed  air.  The  line,  which  goes  on  to  (3s/4  M.)  La  Varenne 
(p.  307),  is  divided  into  four  sections  (fares  16  or  10  c.  per  section).  Pretty 
scenery,  dotted  with  country  villas.  The  principal  stations  are  Qranelle^ 
adjoining  St.  Maurice  (see  above)  and  not  far  from  the  racecourse  at 
Vincennes  (p.  305;  steep  accent);  Bt.  Maur-Port-CrUHL  near  the  railway 
station  of  St.  Manr  (p.  306)  and  about  11/4  M.  from  Cfrdteil  (see  below). 
Tramway  to  Joinville-le-Pont  (p.  306)  and  Vincennes,  see  p.  303.  — 
8t.  Hanr-des-FoMAa  or  lee-Fott^s  (pop.  20,5(X))  occupies,  with  its  depend- 
encies, the  loop,  8  M.  long,  formed  by  the  Mame  beyond  Joinville  (p.  305), 
and  is  supposed  to  be  the  spot  where  Maximian  crushed  the  rebellious 
Gallic  peasants  in  286.  —  The  next  stations  are  Adamville  and  La  Va- 
renne-St-Hilaire^  dependencies  of  St.  M.ur,  opposite  Chennevi^res  and  not 
far  from  Champigny  (p.  307). 

Fbom  Chabknton  to  CaftTEiL,  23/4  M.,  tramway  (25  or  15  c.),  passing 
behind  Alfortville.   the  fort  of  Charenton,  and  MaUone-Alfort.  —  Criteil, 
an  ancient  but  uninteresting  village,  not  far  from  the  Mame  and  St.  Maur 
(see  above),  lies  about  3  M.  from  C\iola^Afe-^Wii  ^^.  ^:A). 

Vincen7he$  lies  about  3  M.  iiomtYvfe  a.\AMayi^^V-^\Kt  ^\.^V«fcw\.^\s.. 
The  road  leads  through  tlie  BoU,  ip^m\i%  t!^«^^^  \V^  VJ\v^A  ^^^ 
^aumemil  (p.  305),  to  tlie  leit. 


15.   VINCBNNBS.  303 

III.  VIN0ENNE8. 

Oaf i8-RB8TADBAMTs.  —  Cofl  dt  to  Paix^  Cours  Marigny.  near  the  tram- 
way-termiaus,  d^j.  2Vs,  D.  3  fr.  \  Continental,  Rue  de  Paris,  30,  with  a  small 
garden,  below  the  ch&tean,  similar  charges  (also  beds)  \  Frangais,  in  front 
of  the  ohlteau;   Cqfi-Eestaurant  de  la  Porte  Jaune,  in  the  wood,  p.  304. 

Tbakwats.  1.  To  i%iH<,  see  p.  301.  —  2.  From  the  Covrs  de  Marigny 
to  Nogent-eur-Jiame  (Pont  de  Hulhouse ;  in  */4  hr.,  60  or  35  c.  ^  p.  806),  Ville 
Evrard  (p.  808),  Bry-tur-Mame  (p.  306),  and  Rosny  (p.  306),  with  various 
intermediate  stations  (16  and  10  c).  —  3.  To  Joinville  •  le  - Poni  (2V2  M.^ 
p.  306),  St.  Maur  (p.  302),  and  Champigny  (p.  807). 

Pott  and  Telegraph  Office  in  the  Eue  de  Tfidtel  de  Ville. 

yinetnnes,  a  town  "with  27,450  Inhab.,  is  a  place  of  no  import- 
ance except  as  one  of  the  fortresses  in  the  outskirts  of  Paris.  The 
only  object  of  interest  in  the  town  is  the  Statue  of  Oen,  Daumesnil 
(1776-1832),  by  Rochet,  in  the  Cours  Marigny,  near  the  tramway- 
station.  The  attitude  of  the  figure  is  an  allusion  to  the  anecdote 
that  when  the  general,  who  defended  the  chateau  in  1814  and  1815, 
was  called  on  to  surrender,  he  replied  that  he  would  not  do  so  till 
the  Allies  restored  to  him  the  leg  he  had  lost  at  the  battle  of  Wag- 
ram.    At  the  end  of  the  Gours  is  the  modern  Renaissance  Mairie. 

The  Ch&teau  de  Vincennes  was  founded  in  the  12th  cent,  and 
afterwards  gradually  enlarged.  It  was  used  as  a  royal  residence  till 
1740,  and  afterwards  served  various  purposes.  In  1832-44,  under 
Louis  Philippe,  the  chateau  was  strongly  fortified  and  transformed 
into  an  extensive  artillery  dep6t,  with  an  'Ecole  de  Tir*. 

An  order  from  the  minister  of  war  is  necessary  to  view  it  \  but  the 
chapel  is  public  at  the  services  on  Sun.  and  holidays,  8, 10.  and  11.16  a.m. 
During  the  Exhibition  of  1900  the  keep  and  the  chapel  will  be  open  daily 
without  order. 

The  chateau  was  used  as  a  State  Prison  from  the  days  of  Louis  XI. 
(1461-83)  onwards.  Among  many  iUustrious  persons  who  have  been  con- 
fined within  its  walls  may  be  mentioned  the  King  of  Navarre  (1674),  the 
Grand  Gond^  (1660),  Cardinal  de  Betz  (1662),  Fouquet  (1661),  Count  Hirabeau 
(1T77),  the  Due  d'Enghien  (1804),  the  ministers  of  Charles  X.  (1830),  and 
the  conspirators  against  the  National  Assembly  (l&th  May,  1848). 

A  melancholy  Interest  attaches  to  the  fortress  from  its  having  been 
the  scene  of  the  execution  of  the  unfortunate  Dnc  d'Enghien,  the  last 
scion  of  the  Illustrious  (^nd^  family.  On  the  suspicion  that  he  was 
implicated  in  a  conspiracy  against  the  emperor,  he  was  arrested  by  order 
of  Napoleon  on  14th  March,  1804,  on  German  territory,  conveyed  to  Vin- 
cennes, and  there  condemned  to  death  by  a  court-martial.  The  sentence 
was  ezeeuted  on  20th  March ,  and  the  body  of  the  duke  interred  in  the 
fosse  where  he  was  shot.  In  1816  Louis  XVIXI.  caused  his  remains  to  be 
removed  to  the  chapel,  where  he  erected  a  monument  to  his  memory. 

The  Chapely  with  its  tasteful  Gothic  facade,  begun  in  1379  under 
Charles  V.,  and  completed  in  1552  in  the  reign  of  Henri  11.,  has 
recently  been  restored.  The  lofty  vaulting  and  the  stained  glass  by 
Cousin  are  worthy  of  notice.  The  monument  of  the  Due  d'Enghien, 
now  in  the  old  sacristy,  is  a  poor  work  by  Deseine. 

The  Donjon,  oiKeepf  in  which  8t&tft-^i\aoiieT^^et^l'w«s!L««S.^ 
conOned,  is  a  massive  square  tower  of  Ave  atoxi^a,  V^^  1^.  Vsv\^sN5goi^.^ 
with  four  smaller  towers  at  the  corners.    1\ie  ^\«.\.ioTia  ^^m\svwAs»  ^ 
Sue  view. 


304  15.    VINCBNNES. 

Vincennes  is  adjoined  on  the  N.  by  Hontreuil  (pop.  27,000),  a  place 
celebrated  for  its  peaches,  but  otherwise  nninteresting.  It  is  connected 
with  Paris  by  a  tramway  (TX)  starting  at  the  Place  du  ChStelet.  The 
peach-orchards  cover  an  area  of  780  acres,  with  about  846  M.  of  walls 
with  the  trees  trained  against  them;  and  about  171/4  million  peaches  are 
annually  yielded.  —  About  IVa  M.  farther  to  the  N.  is  the  uninteresting  vil- 
lage of  Romainvim,  lying  partly  on  the  fortified  hills  to  the  E.  and  K.,  and 
commanding  an  extensive  view.  An  electric  tramway  runs  from  the  Place  de 
la  R^publique  at  Paris  (PI.  B,  36)  to  Bomainville  via  Le$  Lilas  (PI.  B,  36), 
another  village  (pop.  7440),  with  a  a  tasteful  modern  mairie.  Le  Fri-St-Oer' 
vais  to  the  N.E.  of  Les  Lila<),  see  p.  203.  —  Bomainville  lies  IV4  M.  to 
the  E.  of  the  fortifications  of  Paris.  Less  than  1  M.  to  the  N.E.  is  Noisy- 
le-Sec,  a  station  on  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  TEst  and  on  the  Ligne  ^  Grande 
Ceinture  (p.  339).    The  tramway  is  to  be  prolonged  to  this  point. 


The  Boifl  de  VincezmeB,  a  beautiful  park,  much  less  frequented 
than  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  is  of  scarcely  inferior  attraction,  though 
unfortunately  disfigured  by  the  plain  in  the  centre.  The  park  was 
once  a  forest,  where  Louis  IX,  (d.  1270)  used  to  hunt  and  to  ad- 
minister justice;  but  It  was  entirely  replanted  by  Louis  XV.  in 
1731.  In  1860-67  It  was  successfully  transformed  into  a  public 
park  by  Vieaire  and  Bassompierre.  It  is  more  natural  than  the  Bois 
de  Boulogne,  and  contains  fewer  exotics.  It  covers  an  area  of  about 
2275  acres,  including  the  Champ  de  ManoBuvres  (^2  M.  wide)  in 
the  middle,  and  the  artillery  *Polygone\ 

The  Rue  de  Paris  is  continued  beyond  the  fort  by  a  road  that 
enters  the  forest  to  the  right  and  there  forks ,  the  left  branch  lead- 
ing towards  Nogent-sur-Marne  (p.  306),  the  right  branch  towards 
Joinville-le-Pont  (p.  305).    Tramways,  see  p.  303, 

The  street  to  the  right  of  the  chateau  soon  brings  us  to  the 
Esplanade  and  the  most  frequented  part  of  the  Bois.  To  our  left  is 
the  Plaine  de  Gravelle ,  which  divides  the  Bois  into  two  distinct 
parts.  The  plain  extends  from  this  point  to  the  chllteau,  nearly  2  M. 
distant,  and  is  at  places  nearly  1  M.  in  width.  At  the  beginning,  on 
the  right ,  are  large  new  Barracks,  On  the  left  lies  the  Champ  de 
Manoeuvresy  used  for  infantry  drill ;  and  farther  distant,  on  the 
left,  is  the  Polygor^e  de  VArtillerie.  At  a  orossway  in  the  Champ 
de  ManoBuvres  rises  an  Oheliak^  restored  in  1871 ,  where  an  oak 
under  which  St.  Louis  administered  justice  is  said  to  have  stood. 

The  first  walk  on  the  right  leads  to  the  Lao  de  St.  Xandi,  near 
the  village  of  that  name  (p.  300),  the  smallest  but  prettiest  of  the 
lakes  in  the  Bois,    with  beautifully  wooded  environs,    affording 
charming  walks.    The  Avenue  Daumesnil,  which  also  begins  at  the 
Esplanade  and  may  be  reached  by  various  paths  to  the  left  of  the 
Jake,  is  a  continuation  of  the  street  of  the  same  name  in  Paris.   The 
route  diverging  to  the  left,  at  tlie  ^oint  where  the  tramway  from 
the  Bastille  also  turns  fp.  301),  \©a^&  lo^w^%  CiVwwiXwa.  ^.  Wl\ 
At  the   end   of  the   Avenue  DaximeauW  TiW.T«*\. ^P^jAa  C^^-^^^""^^^ 
f'^^^ofArboHeulture  and  Gardening,  opeu  \o  \Ji*  \kX]MS\t.QTi%>Mv.,^Ai*^., 
•«cr  J.bura.,  from  noon  to  6  or  6  p.m. 


16.  VINOENNBS.  306 

The  Lao  Daumesnil  or  de  CkarenUmj  the  largest  lake  (60  acres) 
in  the  Bois,  contains  two  pretty  islands,  which  are  connected  with 
each  other  and  with  the  mainland  on  the  Charenton  side  hy  bridges. 
From  the  Avenue  Daumesnil  they  may  be  reached  by  a  ferry  (10  c). 
Boats  on  the  lake,  V2-2  fr.  per  hr.,  according  to  tariff.  On  one  of 
the  islands  are  an  artificial  grotto,  with  a  temple  above  it,  and  a 
cafl  On  the  other  the  PaviUon  des  ForlU,  at  the  Trocad^ro  daring 
the  Exhibition  of  1889,  has  been  re-erected,  and  contains  a  ^Mus^e 
Forestiert  consisting  of  the  interesting  collections  previously  ex- 
hibited in  it  (adm.,  see  p.  56). 

Tbe  Museum  consists  of  a  collection  of  Speeimms  of  Wood  and  Wooden 
Artielet^  admirably  arranged  and  famished  with  explanatory  labels.  Several 
specimens  are  placed  in  the  exterior  galleries.  —  Gbound  Floob.  Between 
the  tree-trunks  acting  as  columns  in  the  large  saloon  are  grouped  speci- 
mens of  wood  of  all  kinds,  with  articles  made  from  them.  Some  tools 
are  also  exhibited  here,  and,  in  the  centre,  unclassified  specimens  and 
machines.  —  An  annexe  contains  a  JHorcana^  representing  the  inundation 
works  and  afforestation  of  the  valley  of  the  Kiou-Bourdonx.  an  Alpine 
torrent.  —  Fibst  Floos,  reached  by  a  staircase  to  the  right  of  the  entrance. 
The  rooms  at  the  angles  of  the  gallery  contain  farther  specimens  of  wood  \ 
also,  timber-framework,  two  paintings  (iDundation- works  on  the  Bonrget, 
in  the  Alps,  and  the  P^gu^re,  in  the  Pyrenees),  specimens  of  rocks,  pro- 
ducts derived  from  wood,  preserired  fruits,  curiosities,  injuries  caused  by 
insects,  naturalized  animals,  etc. 

A  little  to  the  S.W.  of  the  lake  (comp.  the  Plan  of  Paris  and  the 
Hap)  is  the  Municipal  Veioeipede  Track;  subscription  per  month  6,  six 
months  15,  year  25  fr.;  admission  on  Thurs.  after  1  p.m.,  60c. 

The  Avenue  de  Gravelle,  to  the  left  before  Charenton  (p.  302) 
as  we  come  from  the  Lac  Daumesnil,  traverses  the  S.  part  of  the 
Bois.  A  little  to  the  right  are  the  AsUe  de  Vincennes  for  patients  of 
the  artizan  class,  and  the  Asile  Vcusoisy,  for  the  victims  of- accidents  in 
Paris.  About  II/2  M.  from  Charenton  this  avenue  ends  at  the  Xoc 
de  OravelUf  a  small  lake  fed  by  means  of  a  steam-pump  on  the  bank 
of  the  Marne,  and  drained  by  streams  flowing  into  the  other  lakes. 
A  few  paces  from  the  lake  is  the  Bond-'Point  de  OravdUj  command- 
ing an  admirable  survey  of  the  valleys  of  the  Marne  and  Seine. 

The  Bace  Course  of  Vincennesy  a  little  to  the  left,  is  the  largest 
racecourse  near  Paris,  as  well  as  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  im- 
portant. There  are  six  racing  tracks,  for  flat  races,  hurdle-races,  etc., 
including  a  trotting-course  specially  intended  to  promote  the  breed- 
ing of  military  chargers. 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  we  pass  the  Redoubts  of  Gravelle  and 
La  FaisanderiCj  two  forts  ending  the  wood  on  this  side  and  com- 
manding the  loop,  of  the  Marne  (see  p.  306).  Between  them  is  a 
Model  Farm  J  worked  by  the  Ecole  d'AUort  (p.  302)  and  the  Institut 
Agronomique  of  Paris. 

The  road  on  this  side  of  the  farm  leads  to  Joinville-le«PQnt  (^<x^i- 
Settawant  de  la  Tiie-Noire^  on  the  quay),  a  v\Wai%«k  V^ii^.lfcRKi^  %\\.>va!yeu^  «^ 
the  right  bank  of  the  Marne,  and   a  station  on.  X^v^  Q,\i«vsvvq.  ?^^^«*  ^"^ 
VhtenneaCp.dOl).  Tramway,  see  p.  SOS.  3o\nv\\\<iU\\i^^^V^l^^Q^^'?»-^:^;^^. 
on^hiBaide  of  Paris,  as  Asni6rw  m.  m^  \s  011  t\i^  ^^'^^'^l^.^^^.^^Sv.e.^ 
rairiUn  Canal  de  St.  Maur,  which  begms  hoTe,%aO  ^i^%  AT»^\'^T^'iN'^-»'^''^^^ 
BAXDBKn.  Paris.   14th  Edit.  ^^ 


306 


15.  UOGENT-SUB-MARNE. 


in  1826,  enables  barges  to  cut  off  a  circuit  of  8  M.  described  by  the  Hame. 
—  Tramway  to  St.  Maur-des-Foss^s  (p.  802)  and  to  Champigny  (IVz  M.  \ 
p.  307). 

Beyond  the  Redoute  de  la  Faisandeiie,  with  its  Eeole  MiUtaire 
de  Gymnastique,  we  have  three  roads  before  as.  That  to  the  left 
leads  direct  to  Yincennes,  passing  between  the  camp  and  the  Lac 
des  Minimes  (see  below);  that  in  the  middle  also  leads  towards 
the  lake ;  while  that  to  the  right  leads  to  Nogent-sur-Marne. 

Nogent-sur-Sarne  (Caf 4- Restaurant  du  Moulin  Rouge^  on  the  Hame, 
near  the  viaduct;  others  near  the  station)  is  a  village  with  9400  inhab., 
on  a  hill  above  the  Hame,  with  a  station  on  the  same  line  as  Joinville, 
another  on  the  united  lines  of  the  Grande  Ceinture  and  the  Belfort  railway, 
and  reached  also  by  a  tramway  from  Yincennes  (p.  803).  The  second  of  the 
above  railway-lines  has  its  station  at  Le  Perreux.  It  crosses  the  Hame 
here  by  means  of  a  eurved  viaduct,  ^/s  H.  in  length,  known  as  the  *Pont 
de  Mulhouse".  Below  the  viaduct  is  a  new  bridge  between  Kogent  and 
Champigny  (p.  307).  Kogent  has  numerous  country-houses  on  the  side 
next  the  Bois,  and  to  the  N. ,  towards  Fontenay-sous-Bois  (see  below), 
is  the  Fwt  d$  Nogent.  Champigny  (p.  807)  is  21/2  H,  from  Nogent  by  the 
Grande  Ceinture.  —  The  tramway  from  Yincennes  is  continued  via  JfeuiUy- 
tur-Mamt  to  (3s/4  H.  from  l^ogent)  VitU-Evrardy  where  there  is  a  large 
lunatic  asylum. 

A  branch  of  this  tramway  goes  also  to  Bry-sur-Kaxne,  a  village  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Hame.  In  the  church,  behind  the  high-altar,  is  a 
curious  illusive  painting,  conveying  the  impression  of  a  spacious  Gk)thic 
choir.  This  work  is  due  to  Dagwrre  tp.  848),  who  died  at  Bry,  where  a 
bust  has  been  erected  to  his  memory.  The  street  to  the  right  of  the 
church  is  continued  by  the  road  to  (2V2  H.).  Joinville-le-Pont  (p.  305)  and 
(IV2  H.)  Champigny  (p.  307). 

Another  branch  runs  to  the  IT.  to  Neuillp-Plaitanoe  and  Romy'WW'BoU^ 
the  last  a  village  on  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  TEst. 

The  Lac  des  Kinimes  was  formed  in  1857  on  ground  which 
belonged  to  the  order  of  that  name  till  1784.  The  lake  is  20  acres 
in  area,  and  contains  three  islands.  The  smallest  of  these,  the 
He  de  la  Porte^Jaune  at  the  N.  end,  is  connected  with  the  main- 
land by  a  bridge  and  contains  a  Cafi  ^  Restaur  ant.  The  others, 
though  united  with  each  other,  can  be  reached  only  by  boat,  which 
may  be  hired  (Y2  ^^'  ^^  ©.  each  person)  on  the  W.  side,  near  the 
keepers*  houses.  At  the  £.  end  are  the  small  Cascades,  on  the  two 
streamlets  by  which  the  lake  is  fed.  Round  the  lake,  at  some 
distance  from  its  banks,  runs  the  Route  Circulaire,  and  an  avenue 
also  skirts  the  bank  (a  circuit  of  30-40  min.). 

Opposite  the  He  de  la  Porte-Jaune  begins  an  avenue  leading  to  Fontenay- 
8ou8-Bois,  a  village  and  railway-station  about  Vs  H.  to  the  N.E.,  with  a 
number  of  pleasant  villas  (6836  inhab.). 

The  Lao  des  Minimes  is  about  Vs  ^*  ^^m  the  fort  or  IY4  M. 
from  the  entrance  to  the  ChUeau  of  Yincennes. 


Fboh  VuroBinffBS  (Pabis)  to  Bbib-Coutb-Bobbbt,  19  H.,  railway  in 

IV4  hr.  (fares  2  fr.  25,  1  fr.  65  c,  retum- tickets  5  fr.  40,  2  fr.  40e  ).    Beyond 

Yincennes  the  line  skirts  the  Bois  de  Yincennes  for  some  distance.  — 

iV#  M.  Fontenay-tous-Bois  (<«ee  above) ;  IV4  H.  I^ogent-sur  Mame  isee  above). 

—  Fine  view  of  the  Harne  Volley  to  the  left.  —  8  H.  JoinvUUl»-fmi^  fee 

p.  803.  —  4y,  if.  St.  Maur-Fort'Crit^ily  see  p.  »a.  —  &  li.  Pore  de  St.  Maur, 


15.  CHAMMGNT.  307 

6  M.  Obampigny  {Octfit-EatanrtmU  near  the  bridge)  ii  a  village  (6300 
inbab.)  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Marne,  here  steep  and  prettily  wooded. 
The  station  is  at  Champignol^  on  the  right  bank.  The  Chemin  de  Fer 
de  Orande-Oeintnre,  which  joins  the  Ligne  d'Bst  yi&  Nogent-snr^Mame 
(p.  906),  has  another  station  at  Xe  Flant  -  Cfumwian^  ^  on  the  left  bank, 
near  the  site  of  the  new  bridge  to  ITogent  (p.  306).  Champigny  is  mem- 
orable as  the  scene  of  the  battles  of  30th  Nov.  and  2nd  Dec,  1870,  at 
which  Generals  Trochu  and  Duerot  vainly  endeavoured  to  force  a  passage 
through  the  German  lines.  A  monument  on  the  hill  behind  Champigny, 
1/4  hr.  from  the  Hairie,  marks  the  site  of  a  crypt  containing  the  remains 
of  the  French  and  German  soldiers  who  fell  on  that  oceasion.  The  crypt 
is  open  free  daily  from  noon  till  6  p.m. ;  it  contains  inscriptions,  flagf, 
and  wreatiis.  The  spots  where  the  Germans  are  interred  are  marked  by 
tablets  bearing  the  letter  A  (^Allemands^).  —  Tramway  to  Joinville,  see 
p.  305. 

Fine  views  of  the  valley  of  the  Mame,  Yincennes,  and  Paris  are  ob- 
tained from  the  places  on  the  hills  beyond  Champigny,  such  as  ChenneviireM 
(2  M.;  with  a  view  superior  to  that  from  St-Germain-en-Laye,  at  least  by 
morning  light),  Suey-en-Brie  (2Vs  H.),  and  Boi$»y-St'L4ger  (2Vt  M.).  These 
localities  are  reached  from  the  stations  of  La  Varenne-Chenneviiret  C/4  11.), 
beyond  which  we  cross  the  Mame,  Suey-BonneuU  (S/4  H.),  and  Boissy- 
St-Liger  O/s  H.).  From  8ucy-Bonneuil  a  branch  of  the  Grande-Ceinture  leads 
to  Valenton  (2V2  H.)  and  Villeneuve-St-Georges  (2  M.).  At  Boissy-St*L^er, 
to  the  left  of  the  railway.  Is  the  Chdtectu  du  Piple^  with  a  Protestant  normal 
school  for  girls.  About  iVi  M.  beyond  the  village  is  the  fine  Chdteau  de 
Gros-Bois  (18th  cent.),  with  a  large  park.  Adjacent  is  an  inn.  Less  than 
2  M.  to  the  W.  is  the  Chdteau  de  la  Orange^  dating  from  the  same  period. 
We  can  descend  from  here  to  &  M.)  Brunoy  (p.  360)  or  to  Villeneuve- 
St-Georges  (p.  359).  —  The  following  stations  are  of  no  interest. 

19  M.  0^1/2  K-  from  Paris)  Brie-Comte-Bobert  {HdUl  de  la  Ordce-de- 
IHeUy  Rue  de  Paris),  a  very  old  and  decayed  little  town,  formerly  capital 
of  the  Brie  Francaise,  was  founded  in  the  12th  cent. .  by  Oomte  Robert^ 
brother  of  Louis  VII.  The  Bue  de  la  Gare,  the  Bue  de  Paris  (to  the  loft), 
and  the  Rue  Gambetta  (to  the  right)  lead  to  the  Place  du  If  arch^,  whence 
we  ascend  to  the  left  to  the  Churdt^  a  handsome  building  of  the  12-16th 
cent.,  with  fine  but  much  damaged  decorations.  The  interior  is  worth  a 
visit.  In  the  adjoining  Bue  des  Halles  is  an  interesting  Gothic  Fageide  of  the 
13th  cent.,  belonging  to  an  old  hospital.  Farther  on  are  the  ruins  of  a 
chateau  of  the  12th  century. 

The  railway  goes  on  from  Brie  to  (11  If.)  Vemeuil-rElang,  where  it 
joins  the  line  to  Troyes  and  Belfort.    See  Baedeier't  Northern  Prance. 

16.  Versailles. 

Those  who  can  pay  only  one  visit  to  Versailles  should  start  early  and 
visit  the  gardens  before  the  opening  of  the  palace.  A  second  visit,  in  sum- 
mer, may  be  combined  with  a  pleasant  afternoon-excursion  to  BambouUlet 
(see  Baedeker^e  Northern  France), 

I.   FBOS  PARIS  TO  VER8AILLEB. 

By  the  Ligne  de  la  Rive  Broite,  lii/z  M. ,  in  35-50  min. ;  fares  1  fr.  50, 
1  fr.  l5  c.  (no  reduction  on  return-tickets).  The  trains  start  from  the 
Gare  St.  Lazare  (booking-office  and  waiting-rooms  to  the  left)  every  hour 
or  oftener.  There  are  also  several  additional  trains,  particularly  on  Sun- 
days and  holidays  (see  Indicateur).  —  Best  views  to  the  left. 

Some  trains  go  to  and  from  the  Oare  des  Chantiers  (see  p.  308),  without 
passing  the  station  of  the  right  bank;  fares,  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  20  c. 

To  (91/2  M.)  8t.  Cloud  and  (IQl/a  M.)  ShvreS'VUU-d'Avray,  see 
pp.  291,  296.  —  12  M.  ChaviUe,  near  the  Bo\a  ^^  N\J^^-^^^^v^> 
Fausses-RepOses ,  and  CiiaYlUe  (see  t\ie  'M-o^  ,  ^.^^'S^*  - — N.^'^. 


308  ifi.   TEBSAILLBS. 

Viroflay,  To  the  left,  farther  on,  is  seen  the  Vtaduct  which  crosses  the 
highroad  and  unites  the  lines  of  the  right  and  left  banks.  The  trains 
to  the  Gare  des  Chantiers  cross  this  Tiadact.  —  14V2  ^*  Versailles 
(Gare  de  la  Rive  Droite),  or  15  M.  Gare  des  Chantiers  (see  below). 
By  the  Ligne  de  la  Bive  Oanche,  11  U.,  in  S040  min. ;  fares  1  fr.  35, 
90  c.  The  trains  start  from  the  Gare  Montparnasse  fPl.  0, 16  j  pp.  26],  296) 
and  from  the  Gare  des  Invalides  (PI.  B  14,  //;  p.  274)  almost  every  half- 
hour  (oftener  on  San.  and  holidays).   Best  views  to  the  right. 

From  the  Gare  Montpamasse  to  (6  M.)  8hvreSy  see  p.  296.  — 
8  M.  ChavilU.  To  the  right  is  the  line  on  the  right  bank  with  its 
viaduct  (see  above).  8^/2  M.  Viroflay, 

From  the  Gare  des  Invalides  the  line  crosses  a  long  viaduct  near 
Jssy  and  Moulineaux  (p.  296),  passes  under  the  above  line  from 
Montpamasse,  runs  between  Meudon  and  FUury  (p.  299),  and 
beyond  a  tunnel,  3Y4  M.  in  length,  joins  the  Montpamasse  line  at 
Viroflay, 

11  M.  Versailles  (Gare  de  la  Rive  Gauche  or  Gare  des  Chantiers ; 
see  below). 

By  Tramway,  12  M.,  in  li/s  hr.;  fares,  inside  1  fir.  (including  correspond- 
ance),  outside  86  c.  We  take  the  united  lines  from  the  Quai  du  Louvre  to 
81.  Cloud  And  to  Sivret  and  VertaUle*  (TAB;  see  Appz.)  to  the  Point-du-Jour, 
whence  the  rectr  car  of  every  alternate  train  {i.e.  those  starting  at  35  min. 
past  each  hour)  goes  on  to  Versailles.  Betum  from  Versailles  at  15  min. 
past  each  hour.    Comp.  remarks  on  the  St.  Cloud  tramways  (p.  293). 

To  Sivres,  see  pp.  293,  296.  —  Then  ChaviUe  (office  No.  84) 
and  Viroflay  (No.  33).  We  pass  under  the  above-mentioned  viaduct, 
40  ft.  In  height,  and  enter  the  long  avenue  from  Paris ,  which  ends 
at  the  Place  d^Armes,  opposite  the  palace  of  Yersailles. 

By  Hail  Goaoh,  see  p.  25. 

II.  YEBSAIZ.Z.ES. 
Arrival.     The  Station  of  the  Rive  Droite  Line  is  about  */i  U.,  the 
Station  of  tht  Rive  Oauehe  Line  about  Vs  ^'v  ^^^  the  Oare  dee  Chantiers 
1  H.  from  the  palace.    The  terminus  of  the  Paris  Tramwaps  is  near  the 
Place  d^Armes,  at  the  end  of  the  Avenue  de  St.  Cloud. 

Hotels.  ^HoTBL  DBS  RiftSEBVoiBB.  Rue  des  Reservoirs  9,  D.  5  or  6  fr.  ^ 
HdTBL  Vatxl,  Rue  des  Reservoirs  26-28;  HdTXL  Suissb,  near  the  latter, 
Bue  Petigny  and  Bue  Keuve:  HdTBL  dx  Fbangx,  Bue  Colbert  5,  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  Place  d'Armes ;  HStbl  db  la  Ghassb,  Rue  de  la  Chancellerie 
6,  on  the  8.  side  of  the  Place  d'Armes. 

Gaffts-Beatauraata  (generally  expensive).    At  the  Hotels,  see  above; 

Restaurant  de  Neptune,  Rue  des  Reservoirs  22,   d^j.  3,  D.  4  fr. ;    Cafi-Re- 

staurant  du  Dragon,  Ko.  19  same  street,  ddj.  8,  D.  4  fr.;  Restaurant  du  Musie, 

No.  2  same  street,  near  the  palace,  dej.  3fr.,  unpretending;  Cafi  Anglais, 

Rue  du  Plessis  49,   near  the  station  of  the  Rive  Droite,   dej.  3,  D.  6  fr. ; 

Cafi  Amiricain.  Bue  du  Plessis  47,  dej.  8,  D.  4  fr. ;  Lion  d'Or,  Rue  du 

Plessis  38,  to  tlie  left  of  the  station,  274-21/2  fr. ;  Hdtel  du  Sabot  d'Or,  Rue 

du  Plessis  23,  dej.  2V2i  D.  272  fr. :    Ca/i  Soche,  in  the  Place  Hoche,  dej. 

J2-2Vg,  2>.  3-3^/2  tT,i   Mathiy  Rue  Colbert  7,  dej.  or  D.  272  fr. ;   Brasserie 

Mit/iar,  at  the  comer  of  the  Avenue  St.  Cloud  and  the  Rue  de  la  Pompe ; 

Ca/y  de  ia  Place  d'Armes.^  comer  of  fhe  "Rwe  "aoODife* 

.  n.?^''    ^«r  drfve,  with  one  horsft  l^K,  two  \iot%^  ^H^.^N  ^^T?^^- 

a/^Aij  2  or  2>/s  fr.t  per  hr.,  2  or  2W«iT.-,  ou  »uu.  MAXtfiW^^^j^T^Wix 

^>/>i^'*"^*y«-     To  Paris;  see  a\>Ue.    lu  t\ie  \;0^u..  ^\^;°^.^^\^^i^^J 

^^fhune,    on   the  K.,    vii  the  Gare  dfe  \«^  'RVn*^  1>tq\X^  x^  NJ^'s^  Ax)«vn*  A 


16.   VBRSAILLBS.  309 

Jheardie,  on  the  B. ;  from  OlaHgnp^  farther  to  the  K.,  yift  the  stations  of 
both  banks,  to  Qrandchamp^  at  the  end  of  the  Bue  Boyale  s  from  Olatigwif 
to, the  Orangtrie  (Palaee  gardens);  Arom  Le  Cbemajf^  on  the  K.  (Garrefonr 
St.  Antoine)  to  the  Gare  des  Chantiert^  on  the  8.B.;  fjrom  Clagny,  on  the 
17.B.,  to  the  Place  d'^Armes  and  to  Trianon,  rift  the  Gtore  de  la  Rive  Droite. 
Fare  15  e.,  20  e.  with  eorrespondance ;  doable  fare  after  9  p.m.  —  Also: 
from  the  Avenue  Thiert  (Gare  de  la  Rive  Gauche)  to  (3  H.)  St.  C^r  (p.  826 ; 
36-25  c);  and  from  the  Bue  du  Plessis  (Gare  de  la  Bive  Droite)  to  Monte, 
Yi&  Le  Chesnay,  Bocquencourt,  Bailly,  Xoisy-le-Boi  (p.  326),  Uareil,  etc. 

Fountains  in  the  Palace  Garden,  p.  821. 

Poet  and  Telegraph  Office:  Bue  St.  Julien,  near  the  S.  wing  of  the 
palace  (see  Plan),  and  Bue  de  Jouyencel,  behind  the  Prefecture. 

English  Church,  Bue  duPeintre  Lebrun,  comer  of  Bue  de  laPompe^ 
services  at  11  a.m.  and  4  p.m.    Chaplain,  Rev.  J.  W.  Browne. 

Ver$aille$ ,  the  capital  of  the  Seine-et-Oise  department ,  with 
55,000  inhab.,  is  indebted  for  its  origin  to  Louis  XTV.  During  the 
first  years  of  his  reign  that  monarch ,  like  his  predecessors ,  had 
resided  at  St.  Germain  in  summer,  but  is  said  to  have  conceived  a 
dislike  to  it  as  it  commanded  a  view  of  the  tower  of  St.  Denis 
(p.  334),  the  royal  burying-place. 

The  site  of  Versailles  was  hardly  favourable  for  a  town,  and  still  less 
80  for  a  park,  as  the  water  for  its  ornamental  ponds  had  to  be  conveyed 
to  it  from  a  great  distance  at  a  vast  expense.  The  town  was  called  by 
Voltaire  ^Tabime  des  dipeneee'',  its  palace  and  park  having  cost  the  treas- 
ury of  Louis  XIV.  the  enormous  sum  of  600  million  fr.,  while  its  annual 
maintenance  also  involved  heavy  expenditure.  The  accounts  handed  down 
to  us  regarding  the  erection  of  this  sumptuous  palace  and  the  laying  out 
of  its  grounds  almost  border  on  the  fabulous.  Thus  no  fewer  than  36,000 
men  and  6000  horses  are  said  to  have  been  employed  at  one  time  in  form- 
ing the  terraces  of  the  garden,  levelling  the  park,  and  constructing  a  road 
to  it  from  Paris  and  an  aqueduct  from  Haintenon,  a  distance  of  31  H. 
from  Versailles.  This  aqueduct  was  intended  to  bring  the  water  of  the 
Eure  to  Versailles,  but  was  discontinued  owing  to  the  great  mortality 
among  the  soldiers  employed.  The  waterworks  of  Marly  (p.  329)  were 
afterwards  constructed,  and  a  farther  supply  of  water  obtained  from  the 
ponds  on  the  plateau  between  Versailles  and  Bambouillet. 

After  the  year  1682  Versailles  became  the  permanent  headquarters  of 
the  court,  and  is  therefore  intimately  associated  with  the  history  of  that 
period.  It  witnessed  the  zenith  and  the  decadence  of  the  prosperity  of 
Louis  XIV. ;  and  under  his  successor  the  magnificent  palace  of  the  'grand 
monarque^  became  the  scene  of  the  disreputable  Pompadour  and  Du  Barry 
domination.  It  was  at  the  meeting  of  the  Estates  held  here  in  1789  that 
the  'Tiers  Etat'  took  the  memorable  step,  —  the  first  on  the  way  to  the 
Bevolution,  —  of  forming  itself  into  a  separate  body,  the  AssemoMe  Ra- 
tionale, which  afterwards  became  the  Assembl^e  Gonstituante.  The  in- 
judicious fdte  given  by  the  court  to  the  Garde  du  Corps  in  the  palace- 
theatre  a  few  months  later  precipitated  events.  On  Oct.  oth  the  unfortun- 
ate Louis  XVI.  saw  the  palace  of  Versailles  sacked  by  a  Parisian  mob, 
which  included  many  thousands  of  women  ('les  dames  de  la  halle"),  and 
since  that  period  it  has  remained  uninhabited.  During  the  Revolution  it 
narrowly  escaped  being  sold.  Kapoleon  neglected  it  owing  to  the  great 
expense  which  its  repair  would  have  entailed,  and  the  Bourbons  on  their 
restoration  merely  prevented  it  from  falling  to  decay  and  erected  the 
pavilion  on  the  S.  side.  Louis  Philippe  at  length  restored  the  h^]A.U^x^<^^ 
and  converted  part  of  it  into  an  historical  pictuTe-^«.WeiT^ . 

From  i9tb  Sept.,  1870,  to  6th  March,  ISfTl,  the  p«k\«bG^  -«%»  Vqa^sa^^- 
quartera  of  the  King  of  Prussia,  and  a  great  part  oi  \3[ift  «A\«!lc^  -w*^  ^?,. 
'Xf*i.%t  '^^^^'T  hoBpital,  the  pictTires  having  ^>e«i  ckt^MVi  ^^^^^^'^v'^ 
protect  tbem  from  injury.    An  impressive  scene  tooY  'e\«.^«^  ^«««^  «ii'SK«i 


310  16.  VERSAILLES. 

Jan.,  1871,  whea  the  PmssUa  mDii»rch,  with  the  anaaimooB  eoBsent  of 
the  GemutB  stetef,  wm  Minted  m  Oerman  Emperor.  The  hoa«e  Ko.  1, 
Boolerard  dn  Boi,  was  the  •cene  of  the  negociatioBS  between  Prince 
Bi«marck  and  Jnlee  Favre  on  23rd-24th  Jan.  and  20th-28th  Jan.,  which 
deeided  the  terms  for  the  eapitnlation  of  Paris  and  the  preliminaries 
of  peace.  After  the  departore  of  the  German  troops  (12th  Mar.,  1871), 
Versailles  became  the  seat  of  the  French  government,  and  it  was  from 
here  that  Uarshid  Maemahon  directed  the  straggle  against  the  outbreak 
of  the  Commune.  It  was  not  till  1879  that  the  government  and  the  cham- 
bers transferred  their  headquarters  to  Paris. 

On  the  way  from  the  Btatlon  of  the  Rive  Droite  to  the  palace, 
we  tnm  to  the  right  In  the  middle  of  the  Marchtf  Notre  Dame,  and 
follow  the  Rue  de  le  ParoUse,  In  which  Is  the  Church  of  Notre  Dame, 
erected  by  Mansart  In  1684-86.  The  Rue  Hoche  leads  hence ,  to 
the  left,  to  the  palace,  passing  a  Statue  of  General  Hoche  (1768-97) 
by  Lemalre.  In  front  of  the  palace  extends  the  spacious  Place 
d'Armeij  at  the  end  of  the  vide  Avenue  de  8t.  Cloud  and  of  the  two 
other  chief  streets  of  Versailles,  the  Avenue  de  Paris  and  the  Avenue 
de  Seeaux,  which  lead  from  the  other  two  railway-stations.  The  two 
barracks  fronting  the  palace  were  originally  its  stables. 

Ooides  to  the  eoUeetion  are  rendered  quite  unnecessary  by  the  follow- 
ing explanations  and  the  inscriptions  on  the  pictures  themselves. 

The  ^Palaea  of  Versailles  owes  its  present  extent  almost  wholly 
to  Louis  XIV. ,  who,  about  16G5,  began  the  huge  additions,  the  ob- 
ject of  which  was  to  provide  not  only  an  imposing  seat  of  govern- 
ment, but  also  a  permanent  residence  for  the  entire  court,  and  to 
surround  it  with  everything  that  art  could  supply  or  luxury  demand 
in  the  pursuit  of  pleasure.  The  central  part  (the  present  'Cour  de 
Marbre')  dates  from  the  original  chateau  of  Louis  Xin.,  built  by 
LenureUr  about  1624-26.  LouU  Levau  (d.  1670),  Louis  XIV.'s  first 
architect,  erected  only  the  small  additions  to  the  E. ;  but  J,  H, 
Mansart,  who  succeeded  Levau  in  1676  and  added  a  story  to  his 
additions,  built  the  Galerie  des  Glaces,  in  front  of  the  upper  story 
of  the  garden-facade  of  the  original  chateau  In  1679,  and  erected 
the  long  S.  wing,  as  a  residence  for  the  ministers  and  secretaries  of 
state.  After  the  king  transferred  his  residence  to  Versailles  in  1682, 
the  chateau  was  found  to  be  too  small ,  and  Mansart  accordingly 
added  the  great  N.  wing  in  1684-88.  The  palace,  as  thus  trans- 
formed, had  room  for  10,000  inmates  j  its  longer  facade,  towards 
the  garden ,  is  630  yds.  in  length  and  is  pierced  with  375  win- 
dows. The  pavilions  In  the  neo-classic  style,  on  each  side  of 
the  Oour  Royale,  were  erected  respectively  by  Gabriel ,  under 
Louis  XV.,  and  by  Dufour  under  Louis  XVIII.,  and  seriously  mar 
the  uniformity  of  the  whole  as  seen  from  the  Cour  d^Honneur. 
(iabriel  also  built  the  theatre  (OpSra)y  at  the  end  of  the  right  or 
N,  wing  (1753-70). 

The  CouM  D^HovmxTBL  Is  sepaiate^  ttom  \^<&^\Mk^  ^  krGGA%  h^  a 
railing.    The  groupf  which  adorn  t\ift  ^W\m%  «.X.  XV^  wiJtt«w»  w^s^  «a^- 
blematlosl  of  the  victories  of  L,ou\a  "XIV .  o^«  K^^«.\.x\».^^  ^Tog^^^^wA 


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311 


Key  to  the  Plan  of  the  Palace  of  Versailles. 

G&ouMD  Floob. 

North  Wing.  —  1.  Vestibule  (p.  312).  —  2-12.  Historical 
Paintings  from  Olovis  to  Louis  XVI.  (p.  313).  —  13.  Staircase.  — 
16.  Sculptures  (p.  313).  —  17-21.  Salles  des  Croisades  (p.  313). 

Main  Edifice.  —  22-30.  Less  important  sculptures  and  paint- 
ings. —  32.  Vestibule  of  Louis  XIIL's  time.  —  33.  Most  recent 
acquisitions  (p.  320).  —  34.  Views  of  Royal  Chateaux  (p.  320).  — 
37.  Corridor  to  the  Escalier  de  Marbre  (p.  320).  —  38.  Vestibule 
(^entrance  to  the  new  rooms,  p.  320).  —  42-50.  Dauphin's  Apart- 
ments and  18th  century  rooms  (p.  320).  —  61.  Galerie  Basse.  — 
52-69.  Basts  and  Statues  of  French  Marshals  (p.  320). 

South  Wing.  —  66.  Vestibule.  —  67-80.  Paintings  of  the  Re- 
public and  First  Empire  (p.  319).  —  81.  Sculptures  of  the  same 
periods  (p.  320). 

First  Floor. 

North  Wing.  —  83.  Salon  de  la  Cbapelle  (p.  314).  —  84-93. 
Historical  Paintings :  1794-1830  (p.  314).  —  94.  Staircase  to  Second 
Floor  (p.  315).  —  95.  Sculptures  (p.  314).  —  98-101.  Modem 
Historical  Paintings  (p.  314).  —  102.  Paintings  of  the  Crimean  and 
Italian  Campaigns  (p.  314).  —  103,  104.  Paintings  of  the  Algerian 
('ampaiffns  (p.  3l4). 

Main  Edifice.  —  106-111.  Appartemenfs  du  Roi  (p.  315).  — 
112.  Salon  de  la  Guerre  (p.  316).  —  113.  Galerie  des  Glaces 
(p.  816).  —  114.  Salon  de  la  Paix  (p.  317).  —  116-117.  Grands 
Appartements  de  la  Reine  (p.  317).  —  118.  Salle  des  Gardes  de  la 
Reine  (p.  318).  —  119.  Escalier  de  Marbre  (p.  320).  —  120.  Salle 
des  Gardes  du  Roi  (p.  317).  121.  Premiere  Antichambre  du  Roi 
(p.  317).  ~  122.  Cabinets  de  la  Reine  Marie  Antoinette  (p.  317).  — 
123.  Salle  de  l'a<:il  de  Bcenf  (p.  317).  —  124.  Bedchamber  of 
Louis  XIV.  (p.  317).  —  126.  Cabinet  du  Conseil  (p.  817).  — 
126-130.  Cabinets  Interieurs  de  Louis  XV.  et  de  Louis  XVI. 
(p.  317).  —  136.  Modem  Staircase  (on  the  site  of  the  staircase 
used  by  ambassadors  under  Louis  XIV.).  —  136.  Vestibule.  — 
136,  137.  Rooms  with  crayons  and  modern  paintlnss  (p.  815).  — 
140.  Grande  Salle  des  Gardes  (p.  318).  —  144,  145.  Anterooms 
with  pa  nfings  of  1792. 

South  Wing.  —  147.  Escalier  des  Princes  (p.  318).  —  148. 
Galerie  des  Batailles  (p.  818).  —  149.  Salle  de  1830  (p.  319).  — 
150.  Sculpture  Gallery  (p.  319). 


312  16.   VERSAILLES. 

Spain  (the  lion).  Around  the  court  are  placed  sixteen  colossal  Statutt^ 
some  of  which  stood  on  the  Pont  de  la  Concorde  until  1837. 

On  the  right:  Cardinal  Richelieu  (d.  1642),  regent  of  France  under 
Louis  XIII. ;  Bayard  (d.  1624),  the  ^chevalier  sans  peur  et  sans  reproche' ; 
Colbert  (d.  1^),  the  able  finance  minister  of  Louis  XIV. ;  Marshal  Jourdan 
(d.l833);  Marshal  Mass^na  (d.  1817);  Admiral  Tourville  (d.1701);  Admiral 
Dugay-Trouin  (d.  1736)*,  Marshal  Turenne  Cd.  1675).  On  the  left:  Suger 
(d.  1152),  Abbot  of  St.  Denis  and  regent  under  Louis  VII. ;  Bertrand  du 
Guesclin  (d.  1880),  Conn^table  of  France ;  Sully  (d.  1641),  the  celebrated 
minister  of  Henri  IV. ;  Marshal  Lannes  (d.  1809) ;  Marshal  Mortier  (d. 
1835);  Admiral  Su£fren  (d.  1788);  Admiral  Duquesne  (d.  1687)  s  the  Oreat 
Cond^  (d.  1686),  general  of  Louis  XIV.,  by  DcuHd  d'A»gtrt. 

In  the  centre  stands  a  bronze  Equestrian  Statue  of  LouU  XIV.  ^ 
the  horse  by  CartellUr  (d.  1831),  the  figure  by  Petitot  (d.  1862). 

The  collections  at  Versailles  embrace  two  sections :  1.  The  **State 
Booms  and  Private  Apartments  of  Louis  XIV.  and  his  successors, 
forming  a  museum  of  decorative  art  unique  of  its  kind.  2.  The 
*Hu86e  HiBtoriqne,  founded  by  Louis  Philippe,  and  since  then 
continually  added  to.  Under  the  present  curator  (M.  Pierre  de  Nol- 
hac)  the  paintings  and  sculptures  are  being  re-arranged  so  as  to 
afford  an  intelligent  and  comprehensive  survey  of  the  various 
epochs,  and  in  the  process  the  so-called  historical  paintings  of  the 
time  of  Louis  Philippe,  which  possess  no  historical  and  little  artistic 
value,  are  retiring  more  and  more  into  the  background. 

Visitors  who  can  afford  two  days  for  Versailles  should  first  inspect  the 
royal  apartments  and  then  proceed  at  once  to  the  park  and  the  Trlanons, 
which  are  in  admirable  keeping  with  the  former.  The  historical  museum 
may  then  be  visited  on  the  second  day.  In  the  former  case  visitors  are 
recommended  to  begin  with  the  Escalier  de  Marbre  (p.  320;  entrance  on 
the  left  side  of  fhe  Cour  de  Marbre),  turn  to  the  left  at  the  top  and  skirt 
the  balustrade  to  the  Salle  des  Gardes  (p.  317),  and  thence  enter  Uie  apart- 
ments of  Louis  XrV.  The  FetUt  Appariementa  du  Roi  (p.  317j  and  the  PetitM 
Appartements  de  la  Reine  (p.  8l7)  are  visited  next,  after  which  we  proceed 
through  the  Oalerie  des  Glaces  (p.  316)  and  the  Salon  de  la  Paix  (p.  317)  to 
the  Orands  Appartements  de  la  Reine  (p.  317),  then  return  through  the  Galerie 
des  Glaces  to  the  Salon  de  la  Ouerre  (p.  316),  and  proceed  through  the  ad- 
joining rooms  to  the  Chapel  (p.  313). 

The  principal  Entrance  to  the  Mus^e  (open  daily,  except  Men. 
and  the  holidays  mentioned  at  p.  58,  11-5  in  summer,  11-4  in 
winter)  is  from  the  Vestibule ,  to  the  right ,  at  the  W.  end  of  the 
Cour  de  la  ChapelUj  between  the  Pavilion  Oahriel  (p.  310)  and 
the  Chapel.  The  exterior  of  the  latter ,  with  its  high-pitched  roof 
and  numerous  statues  of  apostles  and  saints,  should  be  noticed.  — 
The  order  of  the  following  description  should  be  adhered  to,  bo  that 
no  objects  of  special  interest  may  be  overlooked  and  no  time  wasted 
on  those  of  secondary  consideration.  The  descriptions  of  the  latter 
are  printed  below  in  smaller  type. 

Oround  Floor  of  the  N.  Wing, 
Vestibule.    Wet  umbrellas  must  be  left  in  the  custody  of  an 
attendant  (10  o.).  Catalogues  (vol.  i  out  of  print,  vol.  ii,  2  fr.,  vol.  lil, 
^  fr.J,  Nolbac  and  Ptfrattf's  admirable  i\iu«ti».\.^^D^%ctVftXNftTL<itthe 


16.   VEESAILLBS.  313 

Palace  and  Museum  (1896;  6  fr.),  photographs,  views,  etc.,  may  be 
purchased  here.  —  To  the  right  is  an  entrance  to  the  Chapel  (usually 
closed ;  fee). 

The  *Palaob  Ghapbl,  erected  in  1699-1710,  produces  a  better 
impression  when  seen  from  the  first  floor  (p.  314) ,  as  its  propor- 
tions were  calculated  from  the  galleries.  It  is  richly  adorned  with 
sculptures  and  paintings.  Oyer  the  entrance-door  is  the  royal  gal- 
lery ,  above  which  is  a  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost ,  by  Jouvenet 
(1709).  The  Resurrection  over  the  high-altar  is  by  Charles  de 
Lafosae,  The  large  ♦Paintings  in  the  vaulting  of  the  roof,  with 
God  the  Father  in  the  centre,  are  by  CoypeL  On  the  ceilings  of  the 
gide-galleries  are  the  Apostles,  by  Louis  and  Bon  Boulogne, 

In  the  vestibule  of  the  chapel  is  a  large  relief  by  Coustou  of  the 
Passage  of  the  Rhine  under  Louis  XIY .   To  the  left  we  enter  the  — 

Sallbs  des  Tableaux  d'Histoibb  dbpuis  Cloyis  jusqu'a 
Louis  XVI.  (PI.  2-12),  containing  historical  paintings  by  Ary 
Scheffer,  Schnetzj  Vinchouj  etc.  (explanatory  labels).  —  From  the 
Staircase  (13)  we  enter  (to  the  right)  the  Galbbib  db  Pibbbb(16), 
a  long  corridor  containing  casts  of  funereal  monuments.  The  most 
interesting  are  in  the  middle:  Tombs  of  Ferdinand  (d.  1516)  and 
Isabella  of  Castile  (d.l604)i  Charles  the  Bold  (d.  1477)  and  Mary  of 
Burgundy  (d.  1482).  —  To  the  left  (open  the  door  if  closed)  is  the 
entrance  to  the  five  — 

*Sallbs  DBS  Cboisaubs  ,  remarkable  for  their  sumptuous  de- 
coration (arms  of  crusaders).  They  contain  a  number  of  good  paint- 
ings of  the  time  of  Louis  Philippe :  — 

1st  Saloon  (PL  19).  Oallait  (1847),  Coronation  of  Count  Bald- 
win of  Flanders  as  Greek  Emperor  (1204) ;  Larivihrej  Battle  of  As- 
calon  (1177).  —2nd  Saloon  (PI.  20 j.  Jaequand,  Taking  of  Jerusa- 
lem by  Jacques  de  Molay,  Grand  Master  of  the  Templars  (1299). 
—  3rd  Saloon  (PI.  21).  The  armorial  bearings  on  the  pillars  are 
those  of  Frederick  Barbarossa,  Richard  Cosur-de-Lion,  and  other 
celebrated  Crusaders.  A  mortar  from  the  island  of  Rhodes,  and 
the  gates  of  the  hospital  of  the  knights  of  St.  John,  from  Rhodes, 
presented  by  Sultan  Mabmoud  to  Prince  Joinville  in  1836,  are  also 
preserved  here.  Horace  Vemetj  Battle  of  Las  Navas  de  Tolosa 
(Spain;  1212);  Schnetxj  Procession  of  Crusaders  round  Jerusalem 
(1099);  Larivihre,  Raising  of  the  siege  of  Malta  (1565);  Odier,  Rais- 
ing of  the  siege  of  Rhodes  (1480) ;  after  Delacroix  (original,  see 
p.  133),  Capture  of  Constantinople  (1204) ;  Blondel,  Surrender  of 
Ptolemais  to  Philip  Augustus  and  Richard  Cosur-de-Lion  (1191).  — 
4th  Saloon  (PI.  18).  Signol,  St.  Bernard  preaching  the  Second  Cru- 
sade at  Vtfzelay  in  Burgundy  (1146) ;  Schnetz,  Battle  of  Ascalon 
(1099).  —  5th  Saloon  (PI.  17).  Signol,  Taking  of  Jerusalem  (1099) ; 
Oallait,  Taking  of  Antioch  (1098). 

"We  now  return  to  the  S.  end  of  tlie  Qsleii^  ^^"CSAtt^  ^xs.^'«A^'e'?sS». 
by  a  smalJ  BtaiicaBe,  in  the  vestibule,  to  \\i«i\&l\.  ^l>s>cv^  ^sJ^-swt^'^. 


314  16.    VERSAILLES. 

First  Floor^ 

North  Wing.  —  We  first  enter  the  Salon  db  la  Chafelle 
(PI.  83),  a  vestibule  vhose  white  marble  wallg  with  figures  of 
Piety  and  Faith  contrast  strikingly  with  the  gay  decorations  of  the 
royal  apartments  (see  below).  Richly  ornamented  doors  admit  hence 
to  the  royal  gallery  in  the  chapel.  After  viewing  the  interior  of 
the  chapel  from  this  gallery  (p.  313),  we  enter  the  — 

Salles  des  Tableaux  d'Histoikb  db  1791 1 1830  (PI.  84-93). 
The  following  are  the  most  noteworthy  works:  2nd  Room  (PI.  85), 
OSrard,  Coronation  of  Charles  X.  at  Rheims  (1825).  3rd  Room 
(PI.  86).  Gros,  Louis  XVIII.  quitting  the  Tuileries  on  the  night 
of  19th  March,  1815,  on  being  apprised  of  Napoleon's  approach. 
6th  Room  (PI.  89).  Oautherotj  Napoleon  wounded  on  the  battle- 
field of  Ratlsbon  (1809).  —  From  the  Staircase  (PI.  94)  we  enter, 
to  the  right,  the  Galbrib  db  Sculpture  ,  a  corridor  containing 
several  fine  marble  statues  hy  Duseigneur,  Debay  the'Elder^  Nanteuil^ 
/r.  Anguier  (Monument  of  Henri  Chabot,  d.  1653),  Foyatier,  Jaley, 
Lehongre^  Etex^  ValoU,  Foucou^  and  Seurre.  In  the  centre  are  several 
works  by  Pradier,  the  best  of  which  is  the  monument  of  the  Duke 
of  Orleans  (p.  159),  with  reliefs  relating  to  the  sieges  of  Antwerp 
and  Constantino.  —  At  the  end  we  turn  to  the  left  and  enter  the  — 

Salles  dbs  Tableaux  d'Histoieb  Contemporaine  (PI.  98-101), 
with  large  historical  paintings  from  the  reigns  of  Louis  Philippe 
and  Napoleon  IIL,  many  of  which  include  interesting  portraits. 
A  few  other  pictures  are  also  temporarily  placed  here.  —  Room  I 
(PI.  98) ;  Qirdme,  Napoleon  III.  receiving  ambassadors  from  Siam 
(1861).  —  Room  II  (PI.  99):  Yvon,  Retreat  from  Russia  (Ney 
in  the  rear-guard).  The  three  large  rooms  chiefly  contain  battle- 
pictures,  including  several  fine  works  by  Horace  Vernet,  Room  to 
the  right  (PL  104) :  ♦  Vemet^  Taking  of  the  Smalah  of  Abd-el-Kader 
by  the  Due  d' Aumale  (16th  May,  1843),  a  magnificent  picture  71  ft. 
in  length  and  16  ft.  in  height,  containing  numerous  portraits,  to 
which  the  sketch  below  it  is  a  key. 

The  'Smalah*  of  Abd-el-Kader  consisted  of  his  camp,  his  itinerant 
residence,  his  coort,  harem,  and  treasury,  and  upwards  of  20,000  persona. 

Vernet,  Battle  of  Isly  (1844).   Central  Room  (PL  103).   Verr^et, 
Siege  and  capture  of  Constantine  in  1837  (three  paintings)  j  Attack 
on  the  Mexican  fort  St.  Jean  d'Ulloa  by  Admiral  Baudin,  1838; 
Storming  of  the  pass  of  Tenia  Mouzaia,  1840 ;  Siege  of  the  citadel 
of  Antwerp,  1832.  —  Room  to  the  left  (PL  102) :  Paintings  of  the 
Crimean  and  Italian  campaigns.   Pits,  Battle  of  the  Alma  (1854); 
ri;an,  ASto/ming  of  the  Malakoff  (1855),  Battle  of  Solferiuo  (1859). 
In  the  remaining  two  small  rooms  we  mM  ta%Tvv\sm.\  ^w  PL  101), 
Couder,   Oatb  taken  in  the  3eu  deYaume  ^Jl^\i^^^v  VV^^vVv-a. 
^iJM,  Vinchon,  Depaituie  oi  t\ie  ^S^tw^iotw^^  ^w^  ^^J  ^^^  ^^^ 
C^792)-  a  L.  Mullet,   Roll-can  ol  tlie  \ii»t  ^^'^^  ^lv:w.^^V5pw 


16.  VERSAILLES.  315 

of  Terror  (1794),  eontiAning  many  portraits  (the  seated  figure  iu 
the  middle  is  Andr^  Gh^nier,  the  poet). 

From  the  S.  end  of  the  Scalptare  Gallery  a  ftaircase  ascends  to  the 
Second  Floob,  which  contains  an  immense  collection  of  portraits  of  cel- 
ebrated persons  of  all  countries  from  the  14th  to  the  19th  century.  Host 
of  these  are  of  little  artistic  value.  The  rooms  also  contain  a  few  casts 
and  medals,  —  The  second  floors  of  the  other  wings  of  the  palace  are 
undei^oiog  restoration,  which  will  not  be  finished  until  1901. 

We  return  to  the  Salon  de  la  Ghapelle,  and  thence  enter  the  — 

Main  Sdillce.  The  royal  apartments  in  this  part  of  the  palace 
no  longer  contain  their  original  furniture  and  pictures,  but  most 
of  the  ceiling,  the  gilded  stucco  ornamentation,  the  panelling,  etc. 
remain  practically  unaltered  and  convey  an  admirable  idoa  of  the 
elaborate  'Louis  Quatorze*  style  of  decoration.  They  therefore  repay 
a  somewhat  close  inspection.  Yisitors  should  note  the  repeated 
occurrence  of  the  sun-disk,  the  emblem  of  the  'Boi  Sol  ell*.  The 
walls  formerly  occupied  by  the  tapestries  representing  the  'Histoire 
du  Roi*,  produced  under  Lc  J5run'«  direction,  are  now  hung  with  the 
paintings  that  were  used  as  patterns  for  these  compositions.  On  the 
other  walls  are  battle-pieces  by  Van  der  MevJUny  Parrocel,  etc. ,  and 
portraits.  We  first  enter  the  — 

Salon  d*Hbboulb  (PI.  105),  with  the  Apotheosis  of  Hercules  on 
the  ceiling,  by  Lemome,  including  142  figures.  Mignatd,  Louis  XIV. 
on  horseback.  The  frame  now  enclosing  Louis  XIV. *s  Passage  of 
the  Rhine,  after  Le  Brun^  originally  belonged  to  Veronese's  great 
Banquet  at  the  house  of  Simon  the  Pharisee,  now  in  the  Louvre 
(p.  117). 

The  following  room  is  the  first  of  the  *0rands  AppABTsiiBNTs 
i>u  Roi  (PI.  106-111).  The  ceiling-painting,  by  Houasse,  is  em- 
blematical of  royal  abundance  or  magnificence. 

Kooms  Kos.  137  and  188  (adjoining  the  last,  see  Plan)  contain  drawings 
in  crayon  Cgouaches')  from  the  campaigns  in  the  Netherlands  in  1745-46 
and  a  frieze  by  Boulangei\  representing  the  Procession  of  the  States  General 
to  the  Church  of  Kotre-Dame  at  Versailles  on  4th  Hay,  1789.  Also,  Couder^ 
Opening  of  the  Oonseil  d'Etat,  1789;  A.  Morot^  Battle  of  Reichshofen;  A. 
de  Ntuvillt^  Battle  of  Champigny  (1S70),  fragment  of  a  panorama.  Statue 
of  Bailly,  by  St.  Marceaux. 

Room  107,  with  a  ceiling-painting  by  JJoucuse,  representing 
Venus  subduing  all  the  other  deities.    Statue  of  Louis  XIV.  by  J. 
Warin,  —  Room  108  (Billiard  Room),  with  ceiling -painting  by 
Blcmcha^^  representing  Diana  as  goddess  of  hunting  and  naviga- 
tion.   On  the  vaults,  paintings  by  Audran  and  Lafoise^  Busts  of 
Louis  XIV.  by  Bernini^  of  Vauban  by  Coyzevox,  etc.  —  Room  109 
(Ball  and  Music  Room),  with  a  fine  ceiling  adorned  with  paintings 
by  Audran  (Mars  in  a  chariot  drawn  by  wolves),  Houasse  (Horrors 
of  war),  and  Jouvenet  (Benefits  of  war).    Above  the  d^^T^  ^:t^  Vs^ 
paintings  from  the  Histoire  du  Roi  (s^e  abo'^fc,  \i^  S.VoueC^*.  ^^'•a- 
nation  of  Louis  XIV,,  and  Meeting  ot  Louis  ILIN .  ^.Ti^^VOCv^^^  « 
fln  tie  retinue  of  the  former  appear  MaiwViv,  Oot^^,  'YlTa'^^^^^  ^'^'rv 
jn  that  of  Philip  u  Velazquez),  —  Hoom  M^ ,  ^^^"^  ^cnNx^%^ 


316  16.   VEBSAILLES. 

J,  B,  de  Champagne;  Mercnry  in  a  chariot ^ILrawn  by  two  cocks.  — 
Room  111  (Throne  Room),  with  ceiling  hy  Ch.  de  Lafoase:  Apollo 
in  a  fonr-hoise  chariot,  escoriied  hy  the  Seasons. 

We  now  enter  the  ♦Salon  db  la  Gubbbb  (PI.  112),  so  called  from 
its  allegorical  ceiling-paintings  XiyLeBrun:  in  the  cnpola,  France, 
hurling  thunderbolts  and  carrying  a  shield  with  a  portrait  of 
Louis  XrV;  in  the  spandrels,  Bellona,  Spain,  Germany,  and  Hol- 
land cowering  in  terror.  The  walls  are  lined  with  parti-coloured 
marbles  and  embellished  with  bronze  reliefs.  On  the  entrance- wall 
is  a  huge  equestrian  relief  of  Louis  XIY.,  by  Coyzevox.  Six  porphyry 
busts  of  Roman  emperors. 

♦Galbbie  DBS  Glaobs  or  DE  Louis  XIY.  (PI.  113),  a  superbly 
decorated  hall,  240  ft.  long,  35  ft.  wide,  and  42  ft.  high,  commands 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  garden  and  its  ornamental  sheets  of  water. 
The  chief  decorations  are  the  paintings,  executed  lay  Charles  Le  Brun^ 
who  was  assisted  by  the  most  famous  artists  of  the  day ;  thus,  e.g. 
the  twenty-three  figures  of  children  and  some  of  the  trophies  are 
by  Coyzevox.  Opposite  the  seventeen  large  arched  windows  are  as 
many  mirrors  (enormously  costly  at  that  date),  set  in  elegant  frames 
by  Cucci.  The  capitals  (of  the  'French  order')  are  an  invention  of 
Le  Brun.  The  subject  of  the  large  central  ceiling -painting  is 
*Le  roi  gouverne  par  lui-meme'  (1661):  Mercury  announces  the 
royal  resolve  to  Germany,  Holland,  and  Spain;  on  the  side  next 
the  garden,  %'ancien  orgueil  des  puissances  voisines  de  la  France\ 
The  achievements  of  the  king  from  1661  down  to  the  Peace  of 
Nymwegen  (1678)  are  exhibited  in  the  remaining  eight  large  cir- 
cular and  semicircular  paintings  and  in  the  eighteen  medallions 
and  imitations  of  reliefs.  The  former  are  concerned  with  the  warlike 
exploits  of  1670-78,  the  latter  with  the  military  and  civil  events  of 
1661-69.  The  subjects  of  the  large  paintings  are  as  follows: 
Alliance  of  Holland  with  Germany  and  Spain  (1672);  at  the  other 
end,  Holland  abandoning  this  alliance  and  accepting  peace  (1678). 
On  the  ceiling,  beginning  from  the  Salon  de  la  Guerre :  side  next 
the  garden.  Passage  of  the  Rhine  (1672)  and  Capture  of  Maastricht, 
Land  and  naval  armaments ;  on  the  other  side,  Louis  ordering  four 
fortresses  in  Holland  to  be  attacked  (council  of  war  with  the  Duke 
of  Orleans,  Condtf,  and  Turenne) ;  on  the  other  side  of  the  central 
painting:  Resolution  to  make  war  on  Holland  (1671),  Franche- 
Comttf  conquered  for  the  second  time,  Capture  of  Ghent  and  the 
fruitless  efforts  of  the  Spaniards  after  that  event  (1678).  The  four 
statues  in  the  niches  are  modem;  to  the  left,  Venus,  by  Dupatyy 
Minerva,  by  Cartellier;  to  the  right,  Apollo  and  Mercury,  by  Jacquot. 
—  King  William  of  Prussia  was  proclaimed  German  Emperor  in 
Ms  iiaii  in  1871.  —  Salon  de  \a  "Paix,  ftVi.,  %^^  ^.  ^V1. 

We  may  now  inspect  «ie  apattmeii\A  ^w«3\«A. -wNft^  ^^  ^''^ss^^ 
dosGiaoee,  which,  with  two  ot^eia  \>ft^ii^  ^^«^^^^ '''^'^^'^'^''^  """"^ 


16.   YEBSAILLBS.  317 

entered,  also  belonged  to  the  'Grands  Appartements*  of  the  king. 
The  Cabinet  du  Oonbbil  (PI.  125),  to  the  N.,  was  formed  in  1755 
by  uniting  the  powdering-room  and  the  study  of  Louis  XIV.  and 
was  decorated  by  A,  Rousseau,  It  contains  a  time-piece  with  very 
ingenious  mechanism,  by  Morand  (1706),  a  handsome  table,  and  a 
Holy  Family,  by  Poumn  (on  an  easel). 

The  Cabinets  Ixt£rikdb8  de  Lodis  XV.  kt  dk  Louis  XVI.  (PI.  126-130), 
to  the  left,  are  shown  by  one  of  the  custodians  (fee).  They  are  elegantly 
decorated  by  VerherdUy  bat  the  clocks  are  now  almost  the  only  remains 
of  the  original  fnrnitare.  The  first  room  (PI.  136)  ia  the  Bedchamber  of 
LouU  XV,^  in  which  he  died  on  May  10th,  1774.  The  Salon  dee  Pendules 
(PI.  137)  contains  an  astronomical  clock  by  Patsement  in  a  handsome  case 
by  Cafjterii  and  an  English  clock  taken  at  Algiers  in  1830. 

The  ♦Bbdchambbr  op  Louis  XIV.  (PI.  124)  retains  practically 
the  original  decorations  and  furniture  of  1701.  The  chimney-pieces 
date  from  Louis  XV.  The  richly  adorned  bed  of  the  king,  who  died 
in  it  on  Sept  1st,  1715,  was  restored  under  Louis  Philippe ;  the 
magnificent  railing  should  be  noticed.  The  goddesses  of  fame  and 
the  figure  of  Gallia  are  by  N.  Coustou ,  the  four  ETangelists  by  Valentin, 
The  remaining  pictures  are  of  recent  introduction.  —  We  now  enter 
the  — 

Sallb  db  l'CEil  bb  Bcbup  (PI.  123),  so  called  from  its  oval  win- 
dow, where  the  courtiers  used  to  await  the  ^lever'  of  the  king,  and 
celebrated  as  the  scene  of  numerous  intrigues.  The  rich  frieze  of 
gilded  stucco,  with  putti,  is  by  Van  Cltve  and  others.  One  of  the 
paintings,  by  Noeret,  represents  Louis  XIV.  and  his  family  with 
the  attributes  of  the  pagan  deities. 

The  Cabinkts  dk  la  Bbike  Mabib  Aktoinettb  (PI.  122;  apply  to  an 
attendant ;  fee)  are  sometimes  entered  from  this  room.  These  remarkably 
small  apartments  are  tastefully  decorated.  Thence  we  may  reach  the 
Escalier  de  Harbre  (p.  S20). 

To  the  left  are  the  PBEMiinB  Antichambbb  (PI.  121)  and  the 
Sallb  des  Ga&dbs  nu  Roi  (PL  120),  containing  pictures  of  battles 
and  views  of  Versailles  in  1688.  Farther  on  is  the  Escalier  de  Marbre 
(pp.  312,  320). 

We  now  return  to  the  Galerie  des  Glaces,  adjoining  which ,  to 
the  left,  is  the  ♦Salon  db  la  Paix  (PI.  114),  with  ceiling-paintings 
"by  LeBrun:  in  the  centre  is  France,  surrounded  by  Abundance  and 
other  allegorical  figures;  on  the  spandrels,  Spain,  France,  Holland, 
and  Germany  rejoicing  in  the  peace.  On  the  exit-wall:  Lemoine, 
Louis  XIV.,  with  the  helm  of  state.  —  The  handsome  rooms  on  the 
S.  side  of  the  main  edifice,  overlooking  the  garden,  are  the  — 

Gbanbs  Appabtembnts  db  la  Reinb  (PI.  115-117),  the  de- 
corations of  which  are  more  interesting  than  the  pictures.    The 
Ohambbb  db  la  Rbinb  (pi.  115)  has  a  tasteful  ceiling  in  ^vi  i^xv3^ 
gold,  with  grisailles  by  Boucher  and  i|j%.Viv\.\\i^'&  \ii  "Sa\.ovt«.  iiw^^^«; 
Troy.    Paintings:  Testelin  (after  I.eBixm^^^e^U^'CSv.^^^^'^^^'^'^"^^  ' 
and  Maria  Theresa;  After  Wattcou,  ^Vxl\i  q1  \X^«^  ^*=^^^^^'"^^^'Sa.«! 
Betrothal  of  the  Dauphin  ;  Mme,  Lc  BrMn,,VivxiA  KxvX.^NxveXX.'^N  ^^ 


318  16.    VERSAILLES. 

Marie  LescBzynska.  —  The  Salon  be  la  Rbine  (PI.  116),  also 
called  Salon  des  Nobles,  has  a  oeiling-painting  by  Michel  CorneiUe: 
Mercury  protecting  Science  and  A.Tt.  Paintings  by  Dulin,  De  Shye^ 
and  Christophe.  — The  Salon  du  Grand  Couvbrt,  or  Anticbambbe 
DB  LA  Reinb  (PI.  117),  has  flne  ceiling-decoration,  after  Le  Brun, 
representing  Darins  at  the  feet  of  Alexander.  Below :  Le  Brun, 
Louis  XIV.  on  horseback;  Le  Brun  and  Van  der  Meulen^  Defeat  of 
the  Spaniards  at  Bruges  by  Turenne  (1567) ;  Gerard  (1834),  Portrait 
of  Philip  of  France,  Duke  of  Anjon,  proclaimed  King  of  Spain  as 
Philip  V.  (1700).  —  In  the  Sallb  des  Qabdbs  db  la  Rbinb 
(PI.  118),  the  walls  of  which  are  lined  with  marble,  are  busts  of 
Louis  XVI.  and  Marie  Antoinette,  etc.,  and  a  portrait  of  the  Du- 
chess of  Burgundy,  by  Santerre.  This  room  was  invaded  by  the  mob 
in  1789,  when  three  guards  sacrificed  themselves  to  save  the  queen. 
The  ceiling-paintings  by  Noel  Coypel  represent  Jupiter  accompanied 
by  Justice  and  Peace,  Ptolemy  Philadelphos,  Alexander  Severus, 
Trajan,  and  Solon.  Doors  in  this  and  the  following  room  lead  to  the 
EscaUer  de  Marbre  (p.  320). 

The  Gbandb  Sallb  des  Gardes  (PI.  140)  was  used  by  the  king's 
body-guard.  The  ceillng-palntlng  by  Callet  Is  an  allegorical  re- 
presentation of  the  18th  Brumaire.  Pictures:  to  the  left,  Roily 
Centenary  Festival  of  the  States  General  at  the  Bassin  de  Neptune 
(p.  324)  in  1889.  To  the  right  David  (1810),  Napoleon  distributing 
Eagles  to  the  Army  in  1804;  behind,  *Oro8  (1806),  Battle  of 
Aboukir  (1799).  In  the  centre :  *Last  Moments  of  Napoleon  I.,  by 
Vela,  a  sitting  figure  in  white  marble. 

On  Maundy  Thursday  the  king  used  to  perform  in  this  room  the 
ceremony  of  washing  the  feet  of  thirteen  poor  children,  in  presence  of  the 
clergy.  Here  also  the  National  Guard,  under  Lafayette,  took  the  oath  of 
fidelity  to  Louis  XVL  on  Oct.  6th,  1789. 

The  next  two  rooms  are  anterooms  leading  to  the  S.  wing  of  the 
palace.  In  the  first  (PI.  144)  are  battle-scenes  from  the  campaigns 
of  1792-94;  in  the  second  (PI.  145)  are  portraits  of  celebrated 
soldiers,  represented  according  to  the  rank  they  held  in  1792.  In 
the  latter  also  are  a  painting  by  Cogniet  (Departure  of  the  National 
Guard  to  join  the  army  in  1792)  and  a  column  In  Sevres  porcelain, 
embellished  with  paintings,  and  crowned  with  a  statue  of  Victory, 
which  was  presented  by  the  city  of  Paris  to  Napoleon  I. ,  on  the 
occasion  of  his  marriage  with  Marie  Louise. 

Soutli  Wing.  —  Quitting  Room  145,  we  cross  the  landing  of 
the  EscaUer  des  Princes  (PI.  147),  on  which  are  placed  a  beautiful 
group  of  the  Three  Graces,  by  Jhradier,  and  a  statue  of  Napoleon  I., 
by  CartelUer.   We  then  enter  the  — 

♦Galemb  des  Batailles  (PI.  148).  This  is  a  magnificent  hall, 
JS2  yds.  In  length j  and  14  yds.  in  mdih,  and  la  divided  into  two 
parts.    It  contains  33  admirable  com^08\t\oii%\>im'cA'OT[v"^«.\»S«t'&, 
and  basts  of  80  celebrated  wamoTS  vYio  ^a^ft  l^«»Ti\ii>»^xXX'i,^\sS\a 
tAe  names  of  others  are  Inscribed  on  U\>\eU. 


16.    VERSAILLES.  319 

Left :  Ary  Scheffer  (1837),  Battle  of  Tolbiac,  near  Cologne  (496), 
in  front  of  which  is  •*La  Patrie',  by  Qeorges  Btrirand,  Then,  on  the 
left  side:  ^Sieuhm  (1836),  BatUe  of  Touib  (732);  Mry  Schtffer 
(1836),  Sahmission  of  the  Saxon  Duke  Wittekind  to  Charlemagne 
(785);  Horace  Vemet^  Philip  Angustns  victorious  over  the  Barons 
at  Bouvines  (1214);  *Eug,  Delacroix  (1837),  Battle  of  Tailleboarg 
(1242) ;  Oirard,  Henri  IV»  entering  Paris  (1 594).  —  Adjoining  room, 
see  below. 

On  the  other  side  ,  in  returning :  *H,  Vemet  (1828),  Battle  of 
Fontenoy,  in  which  the  English  were  defeated  by  Marshal  Saxe 
(1745);  Couder^  Siege  of  Yorktown  in  America,  conducted  by  Gen- 
erals Rochambean  and  Washington  (1781).  —  Philippoteaux,  Battle 
of  Rivoli,  Bonaparte  defeats  the  Austrians  (1797);  Bouchotj  Battle 
of  Zfirich  (1799);  Oirard.  Battle  of  Austerlitz  (1805).  Vemet,  Na- 
poleon addressing  the  Guards  before  the  Battle  of  Jena  (1806) ; 
Battle  of  Friedland  (1807);  Battle  of  Wagram  (1809). 

The  following  Sallk  db  1830  (PI.  149),  devoted  to  the  *July  Monarchy', 
also  contains  a  few  paintings  of  other  subjects.  To  the  left:  H.  Gerver^ 
President  Carnot  distributing  the  prizes  after  the  Exhibition  of  1889 ;  behind, 
J.  G.  Vibert^  Apotheosis  of  Thiers  (d.  1877).  Court,  The  King  distribut- 
ing colours  to  the  National  Guard  in  the  Champ-de-Mars  (p.  282).  Qirard, 
The  declaration  of  the  deputies  read,  and  the  Duke  of  Orleans  proclaimed 
4ieutenant-g^n€ral  du  royaume\  Ary  Scheffer,  Louis  Philippe  at  the  Bar- 
rifere  du  Trone,  receiving  his  eldest  son  the  Due  de  Chartres,  afterwards 
Due  d'Orl^ans ,  at  the  head  of  his  regiment  of  hussars,  4th  Aug. ,  1830. 

Parallel  with  the  Galerie  des  Batailles  is  a  Soulptukb  Qallebx  (PI.  160), 
containing  statues  and  busts  of  eminent  persons  of  the  17th  and  18th  cen- 
turies. Most  of  these  are  by  B.  /Vfevr,  Q.  QtUrin,  Bra,  Houdon,  Monnot, 
Bridan,  Dijoux,  Mouehp,  Lemaire,  Rotand,  Fajou^  Buret,  A.  Dumont,  Seurre, 
and  other  modern  sculptors. 

We  now  retam  to  the  Escalier  des  Princes,  whence  we  may 
descend,  either  to  leave  the  palace  or  to  visit  the  S.  wing  and  cen- 
tral part  of  the  groundfloor. 

Oround  Floor  of  the  8.  Wing  and  Main  Edifice. 

This  section  of  the  collection  is  not  specially  interesting,  and  visitors 
who  are  fatigued  or  whose  time  is  limited  may  omit  it  and  proceed  direct 
to  the  gardens  (p.  820). 

South  Wing.   We  first  enter  the  — 

Galbsibs  db  la  R^puBLiauB  BT  DU  Pbemibb  Emfibb  (PI.  67- 
80) ,  containing  paintings  dealing  with  campaigns  between  1796 
and  1810.    The  most  interesting  are  here  mentioned. 

5th  Room  (PI.  71):  Sirangeli,   Kapoleon  at  the  Louvre  after  his  coro- 
nation, receiving  deputations  from  the  army.  —  8th  Boom  (PI.  74) :  Meynier, 
Marshal  Ney  restoring  to  the  76th  Regiment  of  Foot  its  colours  found  in 
the  arsenal  at  Innsbruck.    Debret,  ^l^apol^on  rend  honneur  au  courage  mal- 
heureux'*,  the  words  used  by  the  emperor  in  saluting  a  waggon  containing 
wounded  Austrians  in  Italy.* —  9th  Room  (PI.  76):  Oirodet-Trioson,  Napoleon 
receiving  the  keys  of  Vienna.    Oros,  Interview  of  "N«kVOl«iQTv  nnWXs.  'CcA'^-vssk.- 
peror  Francis  1.  of  Austria  during  the  bivouac  ou  VbL^  ^^^  vA\et  >;Xv^  X^iaJ;^'^ 
of  Austerlitz,  3rd  Dec,  1806.    *Je  vous  resoia  daua  \e  a^\3A  ^^\«a^  ^^''^  '"D"    ^5. 
depals  deuxmois%  were  the  words  with  whicYi  "Sa.^o\%oti  a.^^^«^^^^^?'''^^%,^ 
*Vous  tires  ai  ban  parti  de  cette  habitation,  qxi'eWe^cAV  nox\»  ^\^v«^  -» 


320  16.   YBBSAILLES. 

the  reply.  —  10th  Boom  (PI.  76):  Mqfniet^  The  French  army  entering 
Berlin ,  27th  Oct.,  1806.  Btrihony  Napoleon  receiving  the  deputies  of  the 
senate  in  the  palace  at  Berlin  (1806).  —  11th  Boom  (PI.  77):  Oout^  Inter- 
view of  Napoleon  with  the  King  and  Queen  of  Prussia,  at  Tilsit  JDebret^ 
Napoleon  presenting  a  decoration  to  a  soldier  of  the  Bussian  army.  — 
12th  Boom  (Fl.  78) :  BegnauU ,  Marriage  of  Prince  Jerome  with  the  Prin- 
cess Frederica  of  Wnrtemberg.  —  13th  Boom  (PL  79):  Debret^  Napoleon 
adressing  his  German  troops  before  the  battle  of  Abensberg  (1809).  Rtmget^ 
Marriage  of  Napoleon  with  the  Archduchess  Mjtrie  Louise  of  Austria,  1810. 
—  14th  Boom  (PI.  80):  Thivmin^  The  French  army  crossing  the  St.  Ber- 
nard (1800). 

The  Gallkbt  of  Sculptdbks  (PI.  81),  parallel  with  the  above  gallery, 
chiefly  contains  Statues  and  Busts  of  celebrities  of  the  first  republic  and 
empire;  e.g.,  by  the  entrance.  General  Hoche,  by  iiUhamme. 

To  the  right  of  this  gallery  is  the  former  ChaJubb  dbs  Dteurfts. 
constructed  in  1875  out  of  an  interior  court  of  the  pilaee,  and  still  used 
for  the  Congress,  i.e.  the  joint  meeting  of  the  senate  and  the  chamber 
of  deputies.  It  may  be  visited  on  application  to  a  custodian  (fee{  entrance 
in  the  Cour  des  Princes,  see  below). 

The  Ground  Floor  of  the  Main  Edifice  contains  farther  a  number 
of  portraits  and  views,  some  of  which  are  interesting,  and  a  few 
sculptures.  —  We  enter  by  a  door  In  the  E.  part  of  the  Cour  de 
Marbre,  whence  the  Escalier  de  Marbre  ascends  to  the  royal  apart- 
ments on  the  first  floor  (p.  316). 

The  Ybstibulb  (PI.  38)  contains  Seulpturea  and  CcutB,  includ- 
ing two  statues  of  the  Empress  Josephine ,  by  Vital  Dubray  and 
Lagrange  J  and  one  of  Ellsa  Bonaparte,  by  Bartolini,  The  adjoining 
Corridor  (PI.  37)  is  empty.  The  next  Room  (PI.  34)  contains  views 
of  royal  residences  by  Martin,  Allegrainj  and  H.  Robert.  The  Recent 
Acquisitions  of  the  museum  are  exhibited  In  the  following  Room 
(PI.  33).  Among  these  are :  Bronze  statue  of  Napoleon  I.,  by  Seurre ; 
busts  of  Lamartine  by  D'Orsay  and  Of  President  Gamot,  by  Chapu ; 
a  portrait  of  Berlioz,  the  composer,  by  Daumi6r;  silver  statuettes  of 
Henri  lY.,  by  Bosio,  and  of  Bonaparte  at  Brlenne,  by  Rochet  f  also 
several  paintings. 

The  following  suite  (PL  42-50)  was  mostly  included  in  the  18th 
cent,  in  the  "'Appabtbmbnts  du  Dauphin,  and  was  occupied  by  the 
son  of  Louis  XV.  and  father  of  Louis  XYI.,  who  died  in  1765.  The 
original  decorations  have  been  partly  preserved.  Some  of  the  best 
portraits  of  the  18th  cent,  have  recently  been  hung  here :  by  C.  and 
Mich.  Van  Loo,  Mme.  Le  Brun,  Nattier,  Tocqui,  Drouais,  and  Rigaud. 
The  ^Portraits  of  French  princesses,  by  Nattier,  are  among  the  most 
attractive  female  portraits  of  the  period.  A  fine  piece  of  Gobelins 
tapestry  (portrait  of  Louis  XY.,  after  M.  Yan  Loo)  is  also  shown  here. 

In  tiie  middle  of  the  main  edifice,  beneath  the  Galerie  des  Glaces,  is 
the  Galerie  Basse  (PI.  51),  looking  upon  the  garden,  and  containing 
historical  paintings.  —  Farther  on  are  the  Salle  dbs  Hab£chai:x  de 
Fbance  (PI.  55-58),  with  busts  and  statues,  etc. 


The  *OaxdenB  (comp.  Map,  p.^OS^,  %.\.0;i^\>%.^>5.^1^'^'^t3i%RftQf 
Versailles,   with,  their  small  pailL  and  omwueoXai  t^^\.^  ^1  ^^N«\.> 
^re  partly  at  least  in  the  same  conditioii  m  ^>ifc^  ^5sX\kA  wsX\fi 


16.    VERSAILLES.  ei21 

Le  Mire  (d.  1700),  the  most  famous  landscape-gardener  of  liis  time. 
Some  authorities,  however,  ascribe  them  to  Boisstau.  A  more  artifi- 
cial style  can  hardly  he  conceived.  The  chief  object  seems  to  have 
been  to  subject  nature  to  the  laws  of  symmetry,  and  to  practise  geom  - 
etry,  architecture,  and  sculpture  upon  lawns,  trees,  and  ponds.  On 
the  other  hand  the  grounds  are  interesting  on  account  of  their  quaint, 
solemn,  old-fashioned  appearance,  which  harmonises  admirably  with 
the  heavy  and  formal  architecture  of  the  palace,  and  is  in  perfect  keep- 
ing with  the  notions  of  art  which  prevailed  in  the  time  of  Louis  XIV. 
The  greater  part  of  the  grounds,  which  are  not  very  extensive,  may 
be  surveyed  from  the  terrace  of  the  palace.  They  are  adorned  with 
numerous  statues  and  vases,  some  of  which  are  copies  from  cel- 
ebrated antiques,  and  others  originals  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries. 
Several  of  the  most  interesting  *bosquets*  are  closed  in  winter  (Ist 
Xov.'SOth  April);  these  are  marked  below  by  the  words  Hn  summer'.  — 
The  gardens  are  shut  at  dnsk,  a  bell  being  rung  V«  l^r.  previously. 

The  playing  of  the  ♦Gbandes  Eaux  always  attracts  vast  crowds  of 
spectators.  This  imposing  spectacle,  which  it  costs' 8- 10,000  ft. 
to  exhibit ,  generally  takes  place  on  the  first  Sun.  of  every  month 
from  May  to  October,  and  frequently  also  on  the  third  Sun.  in 
June,  July,  and  August,  and  is  always  advertised  long  beforehand 
in  the  newspapers.  The  Petites  Eaux  play  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.  from 
May  to  October.  The  best  way  to  avoid  the  crush  is  to  proceed  to 
Versailles  early,  and  to  leave  it  Immediately  after  the  playing  of 
the  fountains,  as  most  of  the  spectators  remain  till  a  later  hour. 
The  fountains  play  between  4  and  5  o* clock,  but  not  simultaneously. 

The  order  is  as  follows  (marked  by  a  red  line  on  the  Plan,  p.  810). 
First  the  Petites  Eaux  —  pit.  those  of  the  Beutin  dt  Latent^  the  *SalU 
des  Roeaillts  (PI.  1),  the  *Botquet  de  la  Colonnade  (PI.  3),  the  Bastin  d'Apol- 
lon,  the  Ba$9in  d'Eneelade  (PI.  i),  and  the  *Baiiu  d'Apollon  (PI.  6).  Next 
the  Grandes  Eaux,  which  begin  to  rise  about  5  o'clock,  —  vig.  those  of 
the  AlUt  d*Eau,  the  BatHn  du  Dragon,  and  the  *Ba$nn  de  Neptune.  The 
jets  of  these  are  about  74  ft.  in  height,  but  they  do  not  play  for  more  than 
20  minutes.  A  good  place  should  if  possible  be  secured  in  time.  The 
visitor  unacquainted  with  the  grounds  had  better  follow  the  crowd. 

Among  the  principal  sculptoied  groups  are  those  in  the  Parterre 
d'EaUy  in  front  of  the  palace,  and  the  Parterres  du  Midi  and  du  Nord 
(p.  323),  to  the  right  and  left.  Beneath  the  parterres  are  cellars, 
1 5  ft.  in  height,  with  the  pipes  used  to  feed  the  various  sheets  of  water. 

On  the  terrace  in  front  of  the  palace  are  two  vases,  that  to  the  N.  by 
Coyzevox^  that  to  the  S.  by  Tuby,  with  reliefs  referring  to  the  defeat  of 
the  Turks  by  the  imperial  troops  uded  by  Louis  XIV.,  and  to  Louis  XIV. 's 
victories  in  Flanders.  Against  the  palace-wall  are  bronze  statues  of  Bacchus, 
Apollo,  Antinous.  and  Silenus.  These  and  the  others  mentioned  below 
without  the  sculptors^  names  are  copies  from  the  antique.  The  two  basins 
in  the  Parterre  d'Eau  are  surrounded  by  fine  groups  and  by  statues  of 
river-gods,  by  Coytevox,  Le  ffongre,  Regnaudiny  Tuby^  etc. 

Near  the  steps  descending  to  the  loN?et  -^wX.  Cil  >[)[v^  %"Kt^«s^^  "*^'«i 
two  large  basins,  the  Fontaine  dt  Diane  to  t\i«i  t\^X.^  ^tA.'Os^^  Ywv- 
^a/ng  du  Point  du  Jour  to  the  left,  \)Ot\i  a^LOTUCk^  ^VtV  ^^wv^^  ^t-jcwv- 
mals  in  bronze  and  other  good  sculpttLxeft. 

Baedbksr,    Pans.    i4th  Edit.  ^"^ 


322  16.  VERSAILLES. 

To  the  right:  Two  lions  fighting  with  a  boar  and  a  wolf,  by  Van 
CUve;  Noon  or  Venua,  by  O.  Marty;  Evening  or  Diana,  by  Desjardiru; 
Air,  by  Le  Hongre.  To  the  left:  Bear  and  tiger^Stag  and  dog,  by  Houzeau; 
Daybreak,  by  G.  Marty;  Spring,  by  Magwer;  Water,  by  Legros, 

This  point  commands  a  BUTrey  of  the  hnge,  monotonous  facade 
of  the  palace,  456  yds.  in  length.  Beyond  the  Parterre  dn  Midi  two 
flights  of  marble  steps,  103  in  number,  and  22  yds.  in  width,  descend 
to  the  Orangery,  built  in  1684-86  by  Mansart.  The  orange-trees, 
about  1200  in  number ,  are  dispersed  throughout  the  gardens  in 
summer.  One  of  them  is  said  to  date  from  1421.  Farther  on  is  the 
large  Pihce  d'Eau  des  Suisaea  y  excavated  by  the  Swiss  guards  of 
Louis  XIV.  At  the  end  is  a  poor  equestrian  statue  of  Louis  XIV., 
by  Bernini,  transformed  by  Girardon  into  a  Marcus  Curtius.  Beyond 
the  pond  extends  the  Boia  de  Satory. 

The  former  Potagtr  or  vegetable-garden,  near  the  Pi^ce  des  Suisses,  on 
the  side  next  the  town  was  converted  in  1873  into  a  School  of  Horticulture. 

At  the  foot  of  the  steps  which  descend  opposite  the  Parterre 
d'Eau  is  situated  the  large  *Bas8in  de  Latoney  constructed  by 
B.  Marayy  consisting  of  several  steps  of  red  marble,  on  which 
there  are  gilded  frogs,  lizards,  and  tortoises  spouting  water  against 
a  fine  group  in  white  marble  of  Latona  with  Apollo  and  Diana. 
According  to  the  myth,  Latona  having  besought  Jupiter  to  chastise 
the  peasants  of  Lycia  for  having  refused  her  a  draught  of  water, 
the  god  metamorphosed  them  into  frogs  (Ovid's  Metamorph.  y1. 
313-381). 

The  Statues  in  the  Pour  tour  de  Latone  are  among  the  finest  in  the  gar- 
den. On  the  right  as  we  approach  from  the  palace  is  a  singular  statue 
representing  Melancholy,  by  La  Perdriz,  the  book,  purse,  and  bandaged 
mouth  being  allusions  to  the  proneness  of  scholars,  misers,  and  taciturn 
persons  to  this  mood.  Then  Antinous,  Captive  Barbarian,  a  Faun,  Bacchus, 
Faustina  as  Geres,  Commodus  as  Hercules,  Urania,  and  Ganymede.  In 
front,  Nymph  with  a  shell,  after  Coyzevox.  On  the  other  side,  as  we 
return  towards  the  palace,  are  the  Dying  Gladiator,  Apollo  Belvedere,  Urania, 
Slercury,  Antinous,  Silenus,  Venus  Callipygos,  Captive  Barbarian,  Fire. 
and  Lyric  Poetry. 

To  the  right  and  left  are  bosquets  with  other  basins  (see  below). 
We  proceed  straight  on  by  the  Tapis-Vert^  a  long  lawn  leading  to  the 
Bassin  d*Apollon  (see  below). 

Next  the  bosquets  are  marble  Hermee.  Before  the  Tapis-Vert:  to  the 
right,  Fapirius  and  his  mother,  Laocoon ;  to  the  left.  Castor  and  Pollux, 
Wounded  Gaul  and  his  wife  (so-called  Arria  and  Peetus).  —  Statues  at  the 
sides  of  the  Tapis -Vert:  to  the  right,  Roguery,  by  Leconte;  June,  Her- 
cules, and  Telephus^  Venus  de  M^dicis;  Cyparissa,  by  Flamen;  Artemisia 
with  the  ashes  of  Mausolus,  by  Lef^vre  and  De^jardins.  To  the  left  (be- 
ginning at  the  top).  Fidelity,  by  Lef^vre;  Venus  quitting  the  bath;  Faun 
and  kid ;  Dido  on  the  funeral  pyre,  by  Poultier ;  Amazon ;  Achilles  in  the 
dress  of  a  woman ,  by  Vigier.  —  At  the  Bassin  d'Apollon  to  the  left,  Ino 
and  Melicertes,  by  Granier-,  to  the  right,  Aristsea  and  Proteus,  by  Slodlc, 
then  Hcrmse,  Silenus  (Faun  and  Child  from  the  antiqne),  and  Bacchus. 

The  Bassin  d'Apollon^  with  a  group  of  the  sun-god  in  his  chariot, 

enviionedi  with  tritons,  nymphs,  and  dolphins  (popularly  known  as 

i/ie  'Char  Embonrb^),  is  one  of  the  chief  of  the  *Petite8  Eaux' 

O'-  321).     The  ngnresy  by  Tuhy,  aitei  Le  Brun,  Mft  VnVi^ii.  —  The 


16.   VERSAILLES.  323 

cruciform  Caned  to  the  W.  of  the  basin  of  Apollo,  about  1  M.  in 
length,  extends  to  near  the  Grand  Trianon  (p.  324). 

To  reach  the  Grand  Trianon  hence  we  follow  the  avenue  immediately 
to  the  right  of  the  railing;  the  others  are  not  open  all  the  way.  The  statues 
between  the  basin  and  the  canal  are  much  mutilated  and  of  little  interest. 

There  are  several  other  basins  and  groups  of  statuary  in  different 
parts  of  the  grounds,  which  are  worthy  of  a  visit  when  the  foun- 
tains play.  On  the  S.  side ,  on  our  left  as  we  leave  the  Bassin  de 
Latone,  is  the  Quineonee  du  Midi  (concerts  given  here  in  summer ; 
teiminal  flguies  aitei  Poussin).  A  little  farther  up  is  the  Salle  de 
Bal  01  dea  BoecdUes  (PI.  1 ;  in  summer*),  with  a  cascade  and  a  group 
of  Cupid  and  a  Satyi.  In  the  broad  avenue  descending  hence  is  a 
basin  with  a  Bacchus  and  small  satyrs ,  in  lead ,  by  the  brothers 
Marsy.  On  our  left  is  the  Bosquet  de  la  Reine  (in  summer),  where 
the  affair  of  the  diamond  necklace  is  said  to  have  taken  place.  Far- 
ther down,  in  the  broad  side-walk,  is  a  basin  with  Solum  and  chil- 
dren, by  Girardon.  To  the  left  is  the  Baaain  du  Miroir,  with  two 
Vestal  Virgins ,  an  Apollo ,  and  a  Venus  (all  restored  antiques). 
Then  the  Bosquet  or  Jardin  du  Roi,  with  the  Farnese  Hercules  and 
Flora,  etc.  On  the  other  side  of  the  AU^e  de  Satume,  the  Salle  des 
Marronniers  (PI.  2),  with  statues  of  Antinous  and  Meleager,  and 
antique  busts.  Still  nearer  to  the  Tapis- Vert  is  the  ^Bosquet  de 
la  Colonnade  (PI.  3 ;  in  summer),  containing  several  basins  of  marble 
beneath  a  marble  colonnade  of  32  columns  and  adorned  in  the  centre 
with  the  Rape  of  Proserpine,  in  marble,  by  Oirardon,  after  Le  Brun, 

On  the  N.  side,  or  to  the  left  of  the  Tapis  Vert  as  we  re-ascend, 
are  the  Basain  d^Encelade  (PI.  4),  where  the  giant  (by  Q.  Marsy), 
half- buried  beneath  Etna,  spouts  forth  a  jet  of  water  74  ft.  in 
height ;  and  the  Obelisk  (PI.  4),  a  fountain  deriving  its  name  from 
the  form  of  the  Cent  TuyauXy  or  hundred  Jets  of  wat^.  In  the 
walk  ascending  in  the  middle  is  a  basin  with  Flora  and  Cupids^ 
by  Tuby.  Next  the  Tapis- Vert  lies  the  Bosquet  des  D6mes,  Farther 
up  is  the  Quineonee  du  Nord,  with  terminal  figures  after  Poussin. 
The  second  basin  in  the  walk  ascending  in  the  middle  has  a  Ceres 
and  Cupids,  by  Regn  ludin. 

The  *Bosquet  dea  Bains  d'Apollon  (PL  5 ;  in  summer) ,  to  th j 
right,  the  most  interesting  of  all,  was  remodelled  in  1778  after 
Hubert  Robert.  A  grotto  in  it  contains  a  group  of  Apollo  attended 
by  nymphs,  by  Oirardon  and  Regnaudin.  The  two  groups  of  the 
Steeds  of  Apollo,  at  the  sides,  are  by  Guirin  and  the  brothers  Marsy. 

The  Etoile,  to  the  left  of  the  walk  and  almost  opposite  this  bosquet, 
has  four  antiques :  Mercury,  Urania,  a  Bacchante,  andApo]lo;  a  Ganymede 
after  the  antique;  and  a  Minerva  by  Bertin.  In  the  Rond-Vert,  higher  up, 
are  four  antiques:  Faun,  Pomona,  Geres,  and  Hygieia. 

We  now  return  to  the  Parterre  du  Nord,  beside  the  Parterre 
d'Eau  (p.  321).  It  contains  two  small  basins,  and  a  fountain  (La 
Pyramide),  by  Girardon,  near  the  AlMe  d'Eau  (5.  ?ftA^^. 

At  the  staircase,  at  the  top,  are  a  Crouching "Veuxi^  wv^^^tsX^.^  ^xvsA.'sx^ 
bronze  copies  of  the  antique.    By  theBoaquel  ^^K^oWot^.^Xj^^vd^^wv^"*-'^^^^ 


32  i  16.    VERSAILLES. 

fountain  of  Diana  (p.  321)  ai  the  top :  Europe,  hjliaxeline ;  Africa,  by  Comu; 
Night,  by  Raon;  The  Earth,  by  Mcuson;  Pastoral  Poetry,  by  Granier.  At 
the  foot,  and  skirting  the  parterre:  Five  terminal  figures^  then.  Autumn, 
by  Regnaudin;  AmeHea,  by  ChUrin;  Summer,  by  ffutinot;  Winter,  by 
Girardon;  Satiric  Poetry,  by  Buyster;  Asia,  by  Roger;  Phlegm,  by  Let- 
pagnandelle ;  Epic  Poetry,  by  Drouilly. 

Beyond  the  Parterre  du  Nord,  to  the  N.,  is  another  sloping 
parterre,  at  the  beginning  of  which  is  the  Bath  of  Diana,  a  square 
basin,  with  lead-reliefs  of  *Diana  and  her  nymphs  bathing,  by 
Oiraidon;  adjacent  are  statues  of  Gholer,  by  HouzeaUy  and  a  Flute 
Player,  by  Jouvtnet.  Then  the  AlUe  d^Eau  or  dea  Marmousets, 
consisting  of  22  groups,  with  three  children  in  each,  in  basins,  and 
supporting  goblets  whence  the  water  descends  into  the  Basain  du 
Dragon  (the  dragon  by  the  brothers  Marsy,  restored  in  1890  by  Tony 
Noel),  and  thence  to  the  *J5asam  de  Neptune ,  the  largest  in  the 
grounds.  The  latter,  restored  in  1889,  is  the  fountain  that  plays 
last ;  evening  displays,  with  coloured  lights ,  are  sometimes  given 
here.  It  is  adorned  with  five  groups  in  metal :  Neptune  and  Amphi- 
trite,  by  the  elder  Adam;  the  Ocean,  by  Le  Moyne;  Proteus  guard- 
ing the  flocks  of  Neptune,  by  Bouchardonj  and  two  dragons,  each 
bearing  a  Cupid,  by  Girardon.  When  the  *grandes  eaux'  play,  this 
fountain  is  a  veritable  hydraulic  marvel,  with  jets  Issuing  in  every 
direction,  from  the  groups,  from  the  22  vases  on  the  ledge  of  the 
wall,  from  pipes  placed  in  and  near  the  basin,  from  the  grotesque 
heads,  from  the  shells  beneath  the  vases,  etc. 

Near  the  Bassin  de  Keptune  is  the  Bosquet  de  VArc  de  Triomphe  (PI.  6  \ 
in  summer),  with  a  statue  of  France  between  Spain  and  Germany,  by 
Coyzevox  and  Tuby.  Also ,  iEsop  and  Cupid  \  Mel  eager  slaying  the  Caly- 
donian  boar;  etc. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Bassin  de  Neptune  is  an  exit  giving  on  the  Rue 
des  Reservoirs  (p.  303 ;  tramway  to  the  railway-stations,  see  p.  308) ; 
to  the  W.  is  an  exit  to  the  Avenue  de  Trianon  (tramway  to  the 
A\\4e  de  St.  Antoine,  see  p.  309). 

The  Trianons. 
The  AvBNUB  DB  Tkianon  is  the  principal  approach  to  the  Tria- 
nons,  which  adjoin  the  park  of  Versailles  on  the  N.,  8/4  M.  from  the 
palace  and  l*/2  ^-  ^^om  the  station  of  the  Ligne  de  la  Rive  Droite 
(tramway,  see  p.  309). 

The  Grand  Trianon,  a  handsome  villa  of  one  story,  in  the  form 
of  a  horseshoe ,  was  erected  by  Louis  XIV.  for  Madame  de  Main- 
tenon  in  1687-88,  from  plans  by  Mansart.    It  occupies  the  site  of 
the  hamlet  of  Trianon,  purchased  by  the  king  in  1663.   The   villa 
is  open  at  the  same  times  as  the  Palace  of  Versailles  (p.  312;  but 
jn  summer  until  6  p.m.),  but  visitors  are  conducted  through  It  by 
an  attendant,  whose  attempts  at  \iTitr^\Tv%  %\iwj\^  wot  be  yielded  to. 
It  contains  several  richly-futnia^ed  a^wtmftivU ,  ^^VoJe^v^^Vi'^s.v 
nard,  Le  Brun,  Boucher,  Bigaud,  VwilaQO,^^l^^\  ^^^  ^«^^^'^'«^ 
works  of  art. 


16.   THETMANONS.  325 

To  the  right  .of  the  Grand  Trianon  la  a  *Mu8&b  dks  Voitdkbb  (open 
at  the  same  times  as  the  Trianon).  It  contains  eight  state-carriages,  viz. 
those  nsed  by  Kapoleon  I.  at  his  coronation,  as  first  consul,  and  at  his  second 
marriage;  coronation-carriage  of  Gharles  X.,  restored  by  Ifapoleon  III.  for 
the  baptism  of  the  Prince  Imperial  (1856;  on  which  occasion  all  the 
carriages  were  nsed);  carriage  nsed  at  the  baptism  of  the  Comte  de  Gham- 
bord  and  the  marriage  of  Napoleon  III. ;  carriage  used  at  the  baptism  of 
the  King  of  Rome;  ambassador's  state-carriage;  carriage  nsed  by  the  Gzar 
and  Gsarina  in  Paris  in  1896.  Ronnd  the  room  are  historic  sledges  and 
gala-harness,  etc. 

The  Petit  Trianon,  a  little  to  the  N.£.  of  the  other,  erected  by 
Louis  XV.  from  the  plans  of  Oahrielj  was  a  favourite  resort  of  Marie 
Antoinette.    Admission  as  to  the  Grand  Trianon. 

It  contains  paintings  by  Natoire^  PaUr^  Watteau^  etc.,  which,  however, 
there  is  no  time  to  inspect.  A  tasteful  staircase  ascends  to  the  first  floor. 
In  the  Brd  room,  to  the  left,  is  a  fine  jewel-cabinet,  once  belonging  to 
Marie  Antoinette ;  in  the  5th  (Boudoir)  is  a  bust  of  the  queen  in  Sevres 
china,  shattered  at  the  Revolution  and  afterwards  restored;  in  the  6th 
(Bedchamber)  is  a  portrait  of  the  Dauphin  Louis  XVn.,  by  Mme.  Lt  Brvn, 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  ♦Jardin  du  Petit  Trianon,  which 
is  laid  out  in  the  English  style  and  contains  some  fine  exotic  trees, 
an  artificial  lake,  a  'Temple  of  Love',  and  a  ^HamUf  of  nine  or  ten 
rustic  cottages,  where  the  court-ladies  played  at  peasant  life. 

The  walk  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake  leads  back  to  the  vicinity 
of  the  chateau,  where  there  is  a  *Salon  de  Musique*,  with  an  orna- 
mental pond,  rockeries,  etc. 

Beyond  the  adjoining  mound  is  a  gate,  to  the  right  from  which  lies 
the  garden  of  the  Grand  Trianon,  and  to  the  left,  the  exit. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Place  d'Armes  (comp.  PI.  p.  308)  is  the  Salle 
DU  Jeu  dbPaums,  or  tennis-court,  in  which  the  members  of  the  Third 
Estate  met  in  June,  1789  (p.  309),  after  they  had  found  the  as- 
sembly-room closed  against  them,  and  where,  on  the  motion  of  the 
deputy  Mounier,  they  took  a  solemn  oath,  *de  ne  jamais  se  s^parer, 
de  se  rassembler  partout  ot  les  circonstances  Texigeront,  jusqu'JL 
ce  que  la  constitution  du  royaume  soit  stabile  et  affermie  sur  des 
fondements  solides*. 

In  1883  a  Jfutie  de  la  Rivolution  was  established  in  this  famous  hall 
(open  daily,  except  Mon.,  12-4).  Opposite  the  entrance  is  a  marble  statue 
of  Bailly,  the  president  of  the  sitting  above  mentioned,  by  St.  Marceaux. 
On  the  walls  are  the  names  of  the  700  persons  who  signed  the  minutes  of 
the  meeting.  On  the  end-wall  is  a  copy  in  grisaille  of  David's  ^Oath  of 
the  Jeu  de  Paume'  (p.  143).  The  glass-cases  contain  portraits,  engravings, 
and  other  relics  of  the  same  period. 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Jeu  de  Paume  is  the  Eolisb  St.  Louis, 
or  cathedral  of  Versailles,  a  heavy  and  ungraceful  building  of  1743- 
1764.  In  the  square  in  front  of  it  is  a  Statue  of  Ahhi  de  VEpee^  In 
bronze  by  Michaut.  In  the  4th  chapel  on  the  right  is  a  monument 
to  the  Due  de  Berri  (d.  1820),  by  Pradier,  and  the  a^js^  Vas* 
stained-glass  windows  made  at  Sevres,  iiom  ^fesV^xv^Vj  "De-vjitxa. 

In  a  square  at  the  end  of  the  Rue  duPVes%\B,\ie^Q^^^^^'^^^^ 
of  the  Tight  bank,  is  a  Statue  of  Houdon,  t\ie  s<->u\^X.o^  V^n^\-^^^^^ 
by  Tony  Noel,  nn  veiled  in  1891 


326  16.  ST.  CYR. 

From  Versailles  to  the  Vallep  of  the  Biivre^  see  p.  353 ;  to  Rambouil- 
let^  ChartreM,  and  Dreux^  see  Baedeker^s  Northern  France,  i 

From  Versailles  to  St.  Gbrmain-en-Latb.  —  1.  By  the  Chemin  de 
Per  de  Grande  Ceinture ,  14  H. ,  in  s/4-1  br.  (fares  2  fr.  5,  1  fr.  60,  1  fr. 
25  c).  —  The  train  starts  from  the  Gare  des  Chantiers  (p.  806).  threads 
a  short  tunnel,  and  passes  near  the  Pi^ce  d'Eau  des  Suisses  (p.  8:22).  Fine 
view  of  the  palace  from  behind. 

4  M.  St.  Oyr  (4200  inhah.),  with  a  celebrated  military  school  founded 
in  1806,  attended  by  750-800  pupils  from  16  to  20  years  of  age  and  fur- 
nishing 350  officers  to  the  army  every  year.  The  school  occupies  the 
^Maison  d'Education'  established  here  by  Mme.  de  Haintenon,  for  which 
Bacine  composed  his  ^Esther*  and  ^Athalie\  St.  Gyr  is  also  reached  by 
tramway  from  Versailles.  —  5y»  M.  Bailly.  —  Beyond  (7  M.)  NoUy-U-Roi 
the  train  enters  the  forest  of  Marly  (p.  327).  Short  tunnel,  beyond  which 
a^  junction  -  line  diverges  to  the  right  to  the  railway  to  St.  Germain  vi& 
Marly-le-Roi  (p.  327).  —  At  (8i/s  M.)  8t.  Nom-La-Bretiche-Forit-de-Marlp 
we  join  the  line  from  Paris  to  St  Germain  via  Marly  (p.  327). 

2.  By  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  V  Quest  ^  as  far  as  B^eon  (eomp.  p.  291), 
and  thence  by  the  line  to  St:  Germain  (see  below) ,  in  IVs  hr.  (through- 
fares  1  fr.  60,  1  fr.  35  c). 

17.  St.  Germaiii-eii-Laye. 

Comp.  the  Mape^  pp.  298^  300,  341. 
St.  Germain  should  be  visited  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  or  Sun.,  as  on  these 
days  the  museum  is  open  free.  —  The  Steamboat  Journey  from  Paris  is 
pleasant  but  rather  long  (SVz  hrs.,  return  4  hrs.);  fare  8,  in  the  reyerse 
direction  2,  return-fare  472  fr.  D^j.  on  board  4  or  6,  D.  5  or  7  fr.  The 
steamer,  named  the  ^Towiste",  starts  in  summer  from  the  Pont-Boyal  Geft 
bank)  at  10.30  a.m. ,  and  leaves  Le  Pecq  at  5  p.m.  (in  Sept.  4  p.m.). 

I.    FKOH  FABIS  TO  ST.  GEBHAIN  BY  BAILWAY. 

Two  lines  unite  Paris  with  St.  Germain,  the  Direct  Line  and  a  line  via 
Marly-h'Roi.  The  latter,  though  longer  and  a  little  more  expensive  than 
the  other,  affords  a  pleasant  variation. 

A.  By  thb  Direct  Linb. 

13  M.  Chemin  de  Fer  de  VOuest.  Trains  start  from  the  Gare  St.  Lazare 
(p.  24  •,  booking-office  upstairs  in  the  central  portion)  every  hour,  or  oftener. 
—  The  journey  occupies  30-50  minutes.  Fares  1  fr.  50, 1  fr.  5  c;  no  redac- 
tion on  return-tickets,  which,  however,  are  available  for  the  line  viR  Marly- 
le-Roi. 

From  Paris  to  Aaniiresj  see  p.  291 .  From  this  point  to  (572  M.) 
La  Garenne-Bezons  there  are  two  distinct  lines,  with  different 
stations ,  which  the  trains  follow  alternately.  To  the  left  diverges 
the  line  to  Versailles,  to  the  right  those  to  Argenteuil  (p.  341)  and 
to  Rouen,  Havre,  and  Dieppe  (see  p.  396).  The  St.  Germain  rail- 
way passes  numerous  villages  and  country-houses. 

71/2  M.  Nanterre  is  a  village  (11,950  inhah.),  where,  according 

to  tradition,  Ste.  Genevieve,  the  patron-saint  of  Paris,  was  horn  In 

422  (p.  240).  About  V2  M.  from  the  station,  by  the  main  street,  to 

iAe  left,  is  the  ciiurch,  near  wbicb,  in  the  courtyard  of  a  school,  is 

tbe  Well  of  St,  Genevldve,  at  one  time\>^\wek^Vi\>ekQlTfii\%.<wiloii8 

^J'rtue.    A  'Rosi^re'  festlTal  is  lieU  iiwe  OTiN^\ji\.-^>ai\%i.  \ji^^ 

^^ace  da  la  Fete  is  a  fountain  wU\v  a  \)toTVX€^H^^«^^^  "'^'^^^^^^ 


17.  MARLY-LE-ROI.  327 

memory  of  J.  B.  Lemattre,  a  benefat  tor  of  the  town.    Steam-tram- 
way, see  p.  328. 

83/4  M.  Kueil  (p.  328).  The  station  is  ahout  1/2  M.  from  the  town 
(steam- tramway,  p.  328).  —  The  train  crosses  the  Seine,  which  is 
divided  here  hy  an  island  into  two  arms. 

972  M.  Chatou  is  also  the  station  for  (1  M.)  the  modern  village 
of  Croisay  (omnihus  in  summer  to  Bovgival,  2  M. ;  see  p.  329).  — 
IOY2  M.  Le  Visinet  is  a  pictaresque  village  with  numerous  villas. 
To  the  left  of  the  railway  is  the  Asile  du  Veainet,  a  convalescent  home 
for  women.  —  II3/4  M.  Le  Peeq.  In  the  cemetery  (more  conveniently 
reached  from  St.  Germain)  is  the  monument  of  the  composer  Filicien 
David  (1810-76),  with  a  hust  and  a  statue  of  Music,  hy  E.  Millet 
and  Chapu.  —  The  train  now  recrosses  the  Seine,  here  divided  into 
two  arms  by  an  Island,  and  ascends  a  steep  gradient  (1:29),  passing 
over  a  viaduct  and  through  two  tunnels,  to  (13  M.)  8t.  Oermcdn-en' 
Laye  (p.  329). 

B,  Via  Mably-lb-Roi. 

24m.  Chemin  de  Fer  de  r Quest,  from  the  Gare  St.  Lazare,  as  above, 
in  l-lV«hr.  (farea  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  20  c.).    Return-tickets,  see  p.  326. 

From  Paris  to  (91/2  M.)  St,  Cloud,  see  pp.  291,  292.  —  The  St. 
Germain  line,  which  diverges  from  the  Versailles  line  in  the  park  of 
St.  Cloud ,  is  uninteresting ,  but  it  afterwards  affords  a  pleasant 
view  of  the  Seine  and  St  Germain.  Beyond  (10^2  M.)  Oarches 
(p.  296)  the  train  passes  the  chateau  of  ViUeneuve-l Etang  (now  a 
branch  of  the  Institut  Pasteur,  p.  288),  the  racecourse  of  La  Marche, 
&ndihe  Hospice  Brezinj  an  institution  for  aged  workmen.  Tunnel. 
—  121/2  M.  Vaucresaon.  Then  a  tunnel.  To  the  left,  the  stud-farm 
of  M.  Ed.  Blanc  and  the  CMteau  of  Beauregard,  We  then  obtain  a 
good  view  to  the  right.  —  14  M.  Bougival'la'CeUe~8t- Cloudy  pret- 
tily situated  near  a  small  wood.  Bougival,  see  p.  329.  To  the  left 
is  the  Aqueduct  of  Marly  (see  below).  —  15  M.  Louveciennea ,  a 
village  with  numerous  large  villas.  —  The  train  now  passes  through 
a  tunnel  and  some  cuttings,  and  crosses  the  road  and  tramway-liuc 
from  Rueil  to  Marly-le-Roi  (p.  329)  by  a  viaduct  930  ft.  long  and 
145  ft.  high.    Good  view  of  St.  Germain. 

16  M.  Marly-le-Boi,  with  a  celebrated  ch&teau,  built  by  Louis  XIV., 
and  destroyed  in  the  Revolution.  The  remains  include  the  Abreuvoir, 
a  large  basin  near  the  tramway-station,  and  parts  of  the  extensive 
garden-walls.  The  small  Park,  the  nearest  entrance  to  which  is  at 
the  end  of  the  avenue  ascending  to  the  right  from  the  Abreuvoir, 
affords  a  pleasant  walk.  The  main  avenue,  crossing  the  site  of  tho 
chateau  and  commanding  a  fine  view ,  ascends  to  the  Aqueduct  of 
Marly  y  constracted  under  Louis  XIV.  to  bring  to  Versailles  the 
water  raised  by  the  hydraulic  machine  at  Marly  (5.  ^*I^\  \^.  N^ 
700  yds.  long  and  75  ft.  high.  On  the  ot\iei  ^\^^\%\aQM^^«JA?^^^^^'^ 
(see  above). 

The  N.E.  half  of  the  Foreat  of  Marly,  beyoud  Y^\a«v^-\«.-N\\\^  Vs.  J^V^ 
aJso  a/rorda  pictnreaque  waJks.    The  part  ad^oVuVivfe^a.^^^  '^^  ^""^  ^    ^ 


328  17.  RUEIL. 

underwood  being  kept  down  for  the  sbootlng-parties  of  the  President 
of  the  Republic.  It  contains  a  fort  and  several  batteries.  The  entire 
forest,  6  tf .  long  and  Si/s  ^*  broad,  is  surrounded  with  walls.  There  are 
gates  at  the  top  of  the  park  and  at  ^e  end  of  the  village,  beyond  the 
church.  To  the  right  of  the  latter  s  the  Villa  Montmorency^  belonging  to 
Victorian  Sardou,  the  dramatist,  with  ten  sphinxes  of  red  granite  at  the 
entrance. 

17^2  ^*  UEtang-la-ViUe  y  a  small  village  situated  in  a  valley. 
We  reach  the  Forest  of  Marly  from  this  point  in  1/4  hr.  by  turning 
to  the  left;  but  the  next  station,  (1872  M.)  8t,  Nom-La-Brethche- 
ForU'de-Marly  ^  is  within  the  forest  itself.  Here  the  line  joins  the 
Grande  Ceinture  line.  Fine  view  of  St.  Germain  to  the  right.  — 
20  Y2  M.  Mareil-Marly.  Beyond  the  next  station,  FourquttiXj  to  the 
W.,  is  the  Forest  of  St.  Germain.  From  (221/2  M.)  5«.  Germain- 
Grande- Ceinture ,  1  M.  from  the  chllteau,  the  line  makes  a  wide 
curve  to  (24  M.)  8t,  Germain-Oueat^  the  terminus,  beside  the  ch&teau 
(p.  330). 

II.  F&OM  FAKI8  TO  ST.  OESKAIN  BY  STEAM  TBAKWAY. 

il«/«  M.,  in  iVi  hr.  (fares  1  fr.  65, 1  fr.  16,  return  2  fr.  70, 1  fr.  85  c).  The 
cars  start  regularly  from  the  Place  de  TEtoile,  to  the  right,  beyond  the 
Arc  de  Triomphe,  at  16  and  46  min.  past  each  hour,  returning  from  8t.  Ger- 
main at  14  and  44  min.  past  each  hour.  To  BueU^  *UhT.  (fares  85,  65  c.); 
Bougival,  1  hr.  (fares  1  fr.  20,  80  c,  return  2  fr.  5,  1  fr.  35  c.)^  to  Marly - 
le-Roi,  li/s  hr.  (fares  i  fr.  60,  1  fr.  10,  or  2  fr.  65,  1  fr.  80  c).  —  We  may 
also  take  the  train  to  Bueil,  and  thence  proceed  by  tramway  in  connection 
with  the  above.  —  Besides  the  tramway-stations  mentioned  below,  there 
are  24  other  points  at  which  the  cars  stop  if  desired.  —  This  route  is  slow 
and  tedious,  especially  on  Sundays. 

The  steam-tramway  quits  Paris  by  the  Avenue  de  la  Grande 
Arm^e  and  the  Porte  MaiUot  (p.  160),  traverses  NeuiUy  (jp.  159) 
by  the  Avenue  de  Neuilly ,  crosses  the  Seine,  and  at  the  top  of  the 
Avenue  de  la  D^fense-de-Paris  turns  to  the  left.  —  2  M.  Courbevoie 
(p.  291),  near  the  Pont  de  Neuilly.  —  2i/2  M.  Bond-Point  de  la  De- 
feme,  near  the  Monument  de  la  Difense  de  Paris,  by  Barrias.  Turn- 
ing to  the  left ,  the  tramway  crosses  the  railway  to  Versailles  via 
St.  Cloud.  —  3^2  ^*  Bond-Point  dea  Berghres,  a  stopping-place  not 
far  from  the  railway-station  of  Puteaux  (p.  292).  We  cross  the  plain 
to  the  N.  of  Mont  Valtfrien(p,  292),  with  an  extensive  view  to  the  right. 
We  stop  at  (48/4  M.)  Nanterre  (p.  326),  to  the  S.E.  of  the  village. 
—  51/2  M.  Bueil  (Cafi-Bestaurant  MatU),  a  small  town  with 
9940  inhab.,  lies  ^2  ^*  to  the  S.  of  the  station.   The  Empress  Jo- 
sephine is  interred  in  the  little  church,  restored  in  1857  in  the 
Renaissance  style,  in  which  a  monument  was  erected  to  her  memory 
by  her  children  Eugdne  Beauharnais  (d.  1824),  and  Queen  Hortense 
(d.  1837),  mother  of  Napoleon  III.    The  statue,  by  Cartellier,  re- 
preaentB  the  empress  in  a  kneeling  posture.  Queen  Hortense  is  also 
interred  in  ibis  church,  and  a  moimmeTit  ot  %i\&Al«x  design^  executed 
hy  Bartolini  of  Florence,  vvaa  eiectc^  toVei  \TiVy^^.  'l\ifc\i%xA.- 
some  organ-loft,  by  Baccio  cTAgnolo  o^ ISV^tew^ife  ^V^V>8i  ^'wvw^^,  ^^^ 
presented  hy  Napoleon  111. 


17.  BOUGIVAL.  329 

Railway  Station^  to  the  N.W.,  see  p.  827.  A  branch  Steam  Tramway 
runs  thence  to  connect  with  that  from  Paris. 

672  M.  La  MalmaiBOJiy  with  the  ch&teau  in  which  the  Empress 
Josephine  resided  after  her  divorce  in  1809  and  where  she  died  in 
1814.  After  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  Napoleon  retired  to  the  chlteau 
of  Malmaison,  hut  quitted  it  on  the  approach  of  the  Prussian  troops 
on  29th  June,  1815.  The  grounds  are  now  subdivided,  and  the 
chateau  is  private  property.  In  the  distance  to  the  right  is  tlie 
Aqueduct  of  Marly  (p.  327). 

7  M .  Lo  Jonehlre.  A  road  (1 1/2  M. )  ascends  hence  to  the  right  to  I.a 
Celle-St-Cloud  (p.  327),  skirting  the  chateau  of  La  Jonchfere,  which 
belonged  to  Louis  Bonaparte.  The  tramway  next  passes  a  fine  grove 
of  chestnuts,  and  a  wood  (to  the  left)  with  the  Etang  de  St.  Oucufa. 

8M.  Bougival  {H6ieU-RtatawanU  Pignon  and  de  VUnion^  on  the 
quay),  a  prettily-situated  village,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine,  much 
frequented  by  rowing  parties.  Part  of  the  Qiurchy  which  possesses  a 
handsome  Romanesque  bell-tower  (restored  1893),  dates  from  the 
13th  century.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Seine  are  Croissy  and 
Chatou  (p.  327).  —  Railway-station,  see  p.  327. 

81/2  M.  La  Machine,  a  suburb  of  Marly,  is  named  from  the  hy- 
draulic machine  by  which  Versailles  and  St.  Cloud  were  supplied 
with  water.  The  old  machinery,  constructed  by  a  Dutchman  named 
Ranneken  at  a  time  (1685)  when  mechanical  science  was  in  its  in- 
fancy, is  said  to  have  cost  4  million  francs.  This  apparatus  was  re- 
placed in  1855-59  by  a  stone  dyke,  6  iron  wheels,  and  12  forcing- 
pumps,  by  means  of  which  the  water  is  driven  up  in  a  single  volume 
to  the  reservoir,  situated  2/4  M.  from  the  river  and  505  ft.  above  it. 

At  (9V2  M.)  Port-Marly  the  tramway-line  quits  the  banks  of 
the  Seine. 

A  branch  of  the  steam-tramway  to  (IV4  M.)  Marly-le'Roi  (p.  327)  ascends 
to  the  S.,  passing  under  the  Viaduct  of  Marly  (p.  827). 

The  main  line  follows  the  highroad  to  St.  Germain ,  on  the  S. 
side  of  which  it  ascends ,  traverses  the  Place  Royale  and  the  Rue 
Gambetta,  turns  to  the  left  into  the  Rue  Thiers,  skirting  the  palace, 
and  halts  in  the  Place  du  Chateau.  — 11^2  ^-  ^^'  Oermain-en-Laye. 

ni.   BT.  GEBHAIN-EN-LAYE. 

Hotels-Sestaurants.  *Pavillom  Henbi  IV.  et  db  la  Tbrrassb  (PI.  9; 
F,  4),  at  the  beginning  of  the  terrace  (p.  832),  of  the  first  class,  with  a 
beautiful  view;  Pavillon  Louis  XIV.  kt  Continbntal  (PI.  a;  E,  2),  Kue 
d' Alsace,  at  the  beginning  of  the  forest,  of  the  first  class  (closed  in  winter) ; 
Colbert  (PI.  b;  E,  3),  Rue  de  la  Surintendance,  with  view,  d^j.  S'/z,  D. 
4  fr. ;  Prince  db  Gallbs  (PL  c;  E,  4),  to  the  right  of  the  church-,  Angk- 
Gardibn  (PL  di  E,4),  d^j.  21/2,  D.  3  fr. 

Restaurants.  Targe.  Rue  au  Pain  83,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  de  la 
R^pnblique,  d^j.  or  D.  272  fr.  (also  pastry-cook);  Rinnion^  ru<i,«iT\i\^T^K^ 
dej.  2fr.,  unpretending  but  clean. 

Oafes.    Crmier^  at  the  Gare  de  VOueai  ^P\.  TS.,^^-.»  Frauquxt  Pffem\.tv> 
Bt  the  Hdtel  du  Prince  de  Galles.  ^. :.   x>s. 

OsbB,     Within   the   barriers,    per  drive  iM*«^.^  ^ti  a>^xv.   ^^^  ^^^x^^  v^"^ 
i'/y/r.;   per  liour  'J  &nd  2^/-i  fr.     Heyond    the    \^aTT\cvft,   vnWVx^v        ^ 


x*.^^^^* 


330  17.  ST.  GERMAIN-EN-LAYE. 

91/2  M.*;  272  and  3  fr.  per  hour  \  4ndemnit^*  for  return  if  the  carriage  be 
dismissed  outside  the  barriers. 

Post  A  Tslbqbaph  Office  (PI.  10;  D,  3),  Bae  Fran^ois-Bonvin ;  branch 
office  opposite  the  theatre  in  the  Place  da  ChSLteau. 

Protestant  Church  (PI.  E,  2),  Avenue  des  Loges. 

St.  Gennaiiif  a  quiet  town  with  16,500  inhab.,  is  indebted  foi 
its  importance  to  tbe  fact  that  it  was  long  a  favourite  summer 
residence  of  the  kings  of  France,  who  were  first  attracted  to  the  spot 
in  the  12th  century  by  the  beauty  of  its  situation.  Its  lofty  and  heal- 
thy site  and  its  attractive  walks  render  it  a  favourite  summer-resort, 
and  have  induced  a  number  pf  English  families  to  reside  here. 

The  Cli&teaa  (Pl.E,  3)  was  formerly  known  as  the  Vieux  Chd- 
Uau,  in  contradistinction  to  the  Chdteau  Neuf,  of  which  the  Pavil- 
ion Henri  IV.  (Pi.  9;  F,  4)  is  now  the  sole  relic.  Early  in  the 
middle  ages  the  French  kings  possessed  a  fortress  on  this  site  com- 
manding the  Seine.  The  chapel,  which  is  still  in  existence,  was 
built  by  St.  Louis.  During  the  wars  with  England  the  castle 
was  destroyed.  It  was  restored  by  Charles  Y.,  but  the  present  build- 
ing ,  whose  gloomy  strength  contrasts  strikingly  with  the  cheer- 
ful appearance  of  other  contemporaneous  edifices,  dates  from  the 
time  of  Francis  I.,  who  here  celebrated  his  nuptials  with  Claudia, 
daughter  of  Louis  XII.  Henri  II.  built  the  adjacent  ChdUau  Neufj 
which  continued  to  be  a  favourite  royal  residence  till  the  time  of 
Louis  XIV.,  who  was  bom  here  in  1638.  After  Louis  XIV.  had 
established  his  court  at  Versailles  (p.  309)  the  ch&teau  was  occu- 
pied for  12  years  by  the  exiled  king  James  II.,  who  died  here  in 
1701  and  was  interred  in  the  church.  The  Ch&teau  Neuf  was  al- 
most entirely  taken  down  in  1776.  Napoleon  I.  established  a  school 
for  cavalry-officers  in  the  old  ch&teau,  and  it  was  afterwards  used 
as  a  military  prison.  Since  1868  the  chUeau  has  been  undergoing 
a  restoration  in  accordance  with  the  original  plans  of  Ducerceau^  the 
architect  of  Francis  I. 

The  *Mus^B  DBS  Antiquities  Nationalbs  ,  which  the  ch&teau 
now  contains,  embraces  an  interesting  collection  of  objects  dating 
from  the  dawn  of  civilisation  in  France  down  to  the  period  of  the 
Carlovingians.  These  are  suitably  arranged,  and  provided  with  ex- 
planatory notices.  The  museum  is  open  to  the  public  on  Sun.  from 
10.30  a.m.,  on  Tues.  and  Thurg.  from  11.30  a.m.,  to  4  or  5  p.m., 
and  to  strangers  on  other  days(Mon.  excepted)  by  special  permission. 
Curator ,  Mona,  A.  Berirand,  —  Below  we  give  a  short  summary  of 
the  most  interesting  objects,  referring  for  details  to  the  excellent 
catalogue  by  Sal.  Reinach  (1 Y2  fr.).  There  are  also  illustrated  cata- 
logues (6  fr.)  with  pictures  of  the  objects  marked  by  small  squares 
of  tinsel.  The  usual  entrance  to  the  museum  is  by  the  first  door  to 
the  left  in  the  court,  but  in  wet  weather  and  in  winter  by  a  small 
door  to  the  left  of  the  vestibule,  which  leads  to  Room  S  (p.  331). 
Those  who  wish  to  follow  a  strictly  chronological  order  must  begin 
with  the  tirat  Qoot. 


17.    ST.  GERMAIN-EN-LAYE.  331 

Ground  Floob.  Booms  S  and  B,  to  the  left  of  the  principal  entrance: 
Casts  of  medallions  and  bas-reliefs  from  the  Arch  of  Constantino  at  Borne  -, 
casts  of  statues  of  Gauls  \  models  of  Boman  engines  of  war  (others  farther 
on),  etc.  —  Booms  A,  B,  and  C,  to  the  right  of  the  entrance :  Casts  of 
bas-reliefs  from  the  Arc  d'Orange  and  the  Julian  tomb  at  St.  Bemy,  near 
Aries.  Boom  B  also  contains  a  medallion  of  a  mosaic  found  at  Antun  in 
1830,  representing  Bellerophon  and  the  Chimeera.  —  We  now  return  to 
the  entrance,  and  ascend  the  handsome  brick  and  stone  staircase  to  the 
entresol.    Booms  D,  E,  and  F  are  not  yet  open. 

Entresol.   Room  X/X.  Gallic  milestones  and  geographical  inscriptions. 

—  Room  XX.  Celtic  and  Boman  inscriptions;  sepulchral  stones.  —  Room 
XXI,  Gallic  mythology ;  altars,  statues,  and  reliefs,  of  rough  workman- 
ship, but  great  historical  interest.  —  Room  XXII,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  staircase.  Sculptures  relating  to  the  Boman  legions  in  Gaul.  By  the 
pillars  to  the  left,  tombstones.  —  Room  XXIII.    Building  materials,   etc. 

—  Room  XXIV,  and  adjoining  passages.  Funeral  urns,  coffins,  etc.  — 
Rooms  XXV  A  XXVI.  Sculptures  illustrating  Gallic  costumes,  arts,  and 
pursuits.  In  the  passages  are  early-Christian  monuments.  —  Room  XX  VII 
is  not  yet  open. 

First  Floor.  Booms  I-III ,  to  the  right ,  contain  objects  of  the  pre- 
historic or  bone  and  flint  period.  Room  I:  Cut  flints  of  immense  antiquity, 
and  fossilised  bones  of  animals  either  altogether  extinct  or  no  longer  found 
in  France.  Cases  1-16  contain  objects  found  in  alluvial  deposits  and 
the  open  country }  Gases  16-83  contain  tools  and  ossifications  from  cav- 
erns, the  first  shelter  of  primaeval  man.  In  Case  12,  between  the  second 
and  third  windows,  are  different  types  of  flint  implements  (from  Si.  Aeheul, 
from  Mousfier  in  Dordogne,  etc.).  In  the  middle,  casts  of  the  heads  of 
the  rhinoceros  (r.  tichorinus),  tiger  (fells  speleea),  great  cave-bear  (ursus 
spelseus),  urus  (bos  primigenius),  the  long-haired  elephant  (18-20  ft.  high), 
and  the  so-called  Irish  elk  (Megaceros  hibemicus;  9-10  ft.  high);  also  a 
tusk  and  a  molar  of  the  mammoth  (elephas  primigenius);  farther  on  a 
Norwegian  elk.  —  Room  II,  Models  of  dolmens  and  ^menhirs'  (V20  of  the 
real  size);  implements  of  the  polished-flint  period;  plan  of  the  Allies  de 
Oarnac,  in  Brittany)  bone  implements  and  ornaments.  —  Room  III,  Dolmen 
from  the  tumulus  of  Gav'rinis  (Morbihan),  Brittany,  and  casts  of  the  un- 
explained characters  from  the  tumulus.  To  the  left  of  the  mantelpiece 
is  placed  an  interesting  collection  of  flint  arrow-heads. 

Adjoining  this  room  is  the  Oalerie  de  Mars  or  Salle  des  Fetes,  occupy- 
ing the  whole  height  of  the  first  and  second  stories.  It  has  not  yet  been 
restored.  This  room  is  also  called  the  Salle  de  Oomparaison,  as  it  contains 
objects  (mainly  copies)  from  different  countries.  At  present,  however,  it 
is  mainly  devoted  to  objects  to  be  afterwards  placed  in  the  other  rooms. 
Near  the  entrance  are  Itoman,  Gallo-Boman,  and  Merovingian  antiquities : 
pottery,  iron,  bronze,  and  silver  objects,  vases,  and  glass.  Then,  foreign 
antiquities:  Italian  specimens,  including  articles  found  in  the  necropolis 
of  Golasecca,  with  a  reproduction  of  one  of  the  tombs;  pre-Boman  and 
Boman  bronzes.  To  the  left,  articles  from  N.  and  S.  Germany;  to  the 
right,  articles  from  Sweden  and  Denmark;  farther  on,  specimens  from 
Persia,  Bussian  Armenia,  the  Caucasus,  Cyprus.  Greece,  Asia  Minor, 
America,  Oceania,  and  N.  Africa.  —  At  the  end  is  the  Beturn  from  the 
Hunt,  a  painting  of  a  scene  in  the  primitive  period,  by  Cormon. 

Betuming  to  Boom  III,  we  ascend  thence  by  a  short  staircase  ad- 
joining the  Galerie  de  Mars  (open  the  door)  to  the  — 

Second  Floor,  where  we  begin  on  the  side  next  the  station.  —  To 
the  left,  in  the  turret,  is  the  Salle  de  Ifumismatique^  containing  Gallic,  Gallo- 
Boman,   and  Merovingian  coins,  trinkets,  Merovingian  pottery   and  arms, 
etc.    In  the  first  case  to  the  left,  in  the  middle,  are  *Omaments  in  gold 
and  silver.    The  corresponding  case  on  the  other  side  cQTL\«.\xi^  '^^-tv^^vosgc^^^N. 
fibulae  and  other  objects  in  bronze,  gold,  and.  ^^&^.    Ci\v^-t^t\«rv%\AR.\^^^^«'^ 
of  the  barb»rie  art  of  this  epoch  are  the  inia.7Vii%  ol  %oV^  «tv  ^g«A^  *xv 
the  age  of  precious  atones.  —  Room  IV.  LacivBtrmft  wiA.  ^vuX.  ^«t\c»^  ^^?2S^ 
of  the  lake-dwellinga):  polished  flints,  polia^feA.  \>ciTVft  •vai^^em«^'^>.^^\^^^N., 
m  wood,   vasea.  By  the  second    window  to  the  tV%\^\.-.  \>Tfe^^^  ^^^^^^ 


332  17.  ST.  GERMAIN-EN-LAYE. 

and  cloth  found  in  the  lake-dwellings  on  the  Lake  of  Constance.  —  Room  V. 
Objects  of  the  bronze  period.  In  the  glass-case  in  the  centre  are  about  a 
thousand  different  articles  found  in  a  vault  at  Larnaud  (Jura).  The  moat 
characteristic  types  are  exhibited  in  the  other  glass-cases.  The  weapons  in 
the  cases  next  the  outer  wall  should  be  specially  noticed.  —  Room  VI, 
Gallic  antiquities  of  the  early  historic  period.  Weapons  in  iron  and  bronze 
objects  of  other  kinds,  found  in  burial-places  (tumuli),  including  fragmentB 
of  war-chariots.  In  the  2nd  case,  Gallic  helmets*,  in  the  2Uth  ^  the 
middle),  fine  bronze  vases,  bracelets,  necklaces  (torques),  etc. 

Room  VJI,  on  the  other  side  of  the  staircase.  Continuation  of  the 
Gallic  antiquities:  objects  from  the  burial-places  of  theJfame;  bracelets, 
rings,  necklaces,  brooches,  vases,  and  belts  in  bronze  j  weapons  and  knives 
in  bron/.e^  weapons,  etc.,  of  iron^  black,  brown,  and  grey  terracotta 
vessels.  —  Room  VIII.  Objects  from  the  burial-ground  of  Chasaemy,  in  the 
department  of  Aisne;  vases;  weapons.  —  Room  IX.  Specimens  of  Gallic 
tombs ;  reconstruction  of  a  Burial  in  a  chariot,  found  in  1875  at  La  Gorge 
Meillet  (Mame),  with  the  chief  below  and  an  attendant  above.  The  orig- 
inal objects  found  in  this  tomb  are  in  Case  2,  to  the  left.  —  Room  X.  Gallic 
tomb  from  La  Cheppe  (Mame),  with  a  skeleton  and  vases.  Pottery.  — 
Room»  XI  and  XII  are  not  yet  open.  —  We  now  return  to  the  — 

FiBST  Floob.  Room  XIII.  Roman  conquest  of  Gaul.  To  the  left, 
Roman  soldier  armed  with  the  pilum  \  in  the  centre,  large  relief-plan  of 
AlUe  (Aletia),  and  of  the  siege  of  that  town  by  Ceesar ;  farther  on,  models 
of  Ca>sar^s  besieging- works  and  of  objects  found  in  the  excavations  at  Alise. 
Models  of  other  works  of  Osesar:  bridge  on  the  Rhine,  works  before  Uxel- 
lodunum  (perhaps  the  modem  Puy  d'Issolu  in  Lot)  and  before  Avaricum 
(Hourges);  model  of  a  Gallic  wall  and  articles  found  at  Mont-Beuvray,  the 
Hibracte  ofCsesar,  to  the  E.  of  Autun^  arms,  projectiles,  and  other  articles 
relating  to  Roman  warfare;  medals,*  etc.  —  Room  XIV.  Gallo-Roman  pot- 
tery ;  vases  and  figures  in  white  clay.  —  Room  XV.  Pottery;  vases  wititi  red 
glazing  and  reliefs;  extensive  collection  of  glass;  large  collection  of  flbulsB 
and  other  bronze  articles,  including  pincers,  needles,  etc.,  in  the  turret  at 
the  corner.  —  Room  XVI.  Pottery.  Objects  in  bone,  etc.  —  Room  XVII, 
Pottery.  Originals  and  casts  of  Roman  bronzes;  antique  pins,  needles, 
and  thimbles  of  bone  and  bronze ;  statuettes  and  vases.  At  the  right  end 
of  the  first  large  central  glass-case  is  a  fine  head  of  a  river-god,  with 
horns.  Then,  small  objects  in  iron,  knives,  keys,  etc.  —  Room  XVIII 
is  not  yet  open. 

The  Church  of  St.  Geimain,  situated  opposite  the  ch&teau, 
contains  a  simple  monument  in  white  marble,  erected  by  George  IV. 
of  England  to  the  memory  of  James  II.  (p.  330).  The  monument 
was  afterwards  restored  by  order  of  Queen  Victoria. 

In  the  small  Place  to  the  right  of  the  facade  of  the  chateau  is  a 
Statue  of  Thiers  (PI.  E,  4),  by  Mercitf.  Thiers  (1797-1877)  died  at 
St.  Germain. 

The  H6tel  dt  Ville  (PI.  7 ;  E,  3),  in  the  Rue  de  Pontoise,  near 
the  station,  contains  a  small  library  and  collection  of  unimportant 
pictures  on  the  second  floor  (open  daily,  except  Hon.,  10-12  and 
1-4).  —  In  the  adjoining  square,  next  the  railway-station,  is  a 
Statue  of  the  Republic,  by  Granet. 

The  *Terrace  (PI.  F,  G,  2,  1)  of  St.  Germain  extends  for  i/tM- 
along  the  E.  slope  of  the  vine-clad  hill  at  a  height  of  200  ft.  above 
the  Seine,  and  commands  a  magnificent  survey  of  the  valley,  the  wind- 
ing river,  and  the  well-peopled  plain.  The  middle  distance  resembles 
a  huge  park  sprinkled  with  country-houses.  The  nearest  village 
fs  Le  Pocq,  hnyoiul  which  is  Lc  Y«su\et.  lAoTvtmKtVxfti*. Nlsible  on  the 


17.    ST.  GERMAIN-EN-LAYE.  333 

horizon,  and  to  the  right,  the  Eiffel  Tower,  hut  the  rest  of  Paris  is 
concealed  by  Mont  VaWrien.  Farther  to  the  right ,  on  the  hill,  is 
the  aqueduct  of  Marly  (p.  327).  To  the  left,  on  the  hank  of  the 
Seine,  are  theiiew  buildings  of  the  *Petite  Roquette',  a  prison 
intended  to  supersede  the  'Maison  des  Jeunes  D^tenus^  in  Paris 
(p.  179).  Beyond  Le  Vtfsinet  are  the  hills  on  which  lies  Montmorency. 
Near  the  end  of  the  terrace  is  Carrihres-souS'Bois^  about  2  M .  from  I 
Maisous-Laffitte  (p.  344).  —  A  band  plays  in  the  kiosk  on  the  terrace 
on  Sun.  in  summer  at  3.30  p.m. 

The  beautiful  Forest  of  St.  Germain,  occupying  nearly  the 
whole  of  a  peninsula  formed  by  the  windings  of  the  Seine,  is  about 
11,000  acres  in  extent,  being  6  M.  long  from  S.W.  to  N.E.,  and 
2Y2-4V2  M.  broad  from  S.E.  to  N.W.  It  is  kept  in  admirable  order, 
and  affords  pleasant  and  shady  walks  in  every  direction.  Numerous 
direction-boards.  The  popular  FHe  des  Loges,  which  takes  place  in 
the  forest  on  the  Sunday  nearest  Aug.  30th  and  on  the  nine  follow- 
ing days,  derives  its  name  from  Les  LogeSy  a  country-seat  2  M. 
distant  from  the  town,  erected  by  Anne  of  Austria,  wife  of  Louis  XIII., 
and  now  a  school  for  daughters  of  members  of  the  Legion  of  Honour. 
The  most  frequented  part  of  the  forest  lies  to  the  right,  before  Les 
Loges  is  reached.  The  Pontoise  road,  striking  to  the  right  beyond 
Les  Loges,  leads  to  (3  M.)  Achires  (see  below  and  the  Map).  It 
crosses  the  road  from  Poissy  to  Maisons  (p.  344),  which  lies  about 
2  M.  to  the  right  of  the  point  of  intersection.  Fine  view  on  quitting 
the  wood.  The  part  of  the  forest  next  the  Seine  is  less  interesting, 
and  a  number  of  market-gardens  have  been  laid  out  here  to  utilize 
the  sewage  of  Paris,  conducted  hither  by  the  new  conduits  men- 
tioned at  p.  342. 

Fboh  St.  Gbbmain  to  Maisons-Laffittb  (Argenieuil;  Haps,  pp.  333, 334), 
IOV2  M.,  railway  (Grande  Ceinture)  in  3545  min.  (fares  1  fp.  90,  1  fr.  80, 
95  c).  A  tramway  also  plies  to  (3V4  M.)  Poissy  (fares  60  c,  45  c),  with 
a  branch  to  (41/4  M.)  Maisons-Laffltte  GO  c.),  etc.  —  The  railway  describes 
a  wide  curve  through  the  Forest  of  St.  Germain.  —  2Va  M.  St.  Oermain- 
Grande- Ceinture  (p.  326).  —  5  M.  Poissy  (Hdtel  de  Rouen);  the  station  is 
to  the  E.,  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  town  to  that  of  the  Rouen  railway 
(p.  404).  —  8  M.  Achires^  see  p.  344.  Our  line  now  coincides  with  the 
Rouen  line  (p.  396)  till  the  Seine  is  crossed.  —  lOVs  M.  Maisons- LaffiUe, 
see  p.  344.     The  railway  continues  to  the  left  to  Argenteuil  (p.  341). 

From  St.  Germain  to  Versailles^  see  p.  326. 

18.  St.  Denis,  Enghien,  and  Montmorency. 

The  trains  between  Paris  and  these  places  follow  the  Ligne  Circulaire 
between  the  Qare  du  Nord  and  the  Gare  St.  Latare  (18  M.).  Through- 
tickets  are  issued  at  low  rates  but  do  not  allow  of  a  break  in  the  journey. 

I.  From  Paris  to  St.  Denis. 

4V2  M.  Chkmin  db  Fer   do  Nokd,  in  8-14  min.  (fares   80,  50,  35  c. ; 
return-tickets  1  fr.  20,  85,  55  c).     Trains  start  from  the  Gare  d\i  ^<ix^  Vvv 
the  Place  Roubaix   (see  p.  26),   4  times  an  Yvout  ot  Q»^«ti«t  VJOs^^^'^  '-NxtsX^s- 
tramways'^. 


334  18.    ST.  DENIS. 

Tramwats.  Five  lines  run  to  St.  Denis,  the  1st  starting  from  the 
Opira^  Rue  Scribe  (PI.  B,  18  ^  /i),  the  2nd  from  the  Madeleine  (PI.  F,  18; 
II),  the  3rd  from  the  Plaee  du  CkdieUt  (PI.  B,  20-23 ;  F),  the  4th  from  the 
Square  de  la  TriniU  (p.  196^  f^oing  on  to  JBpintxffy  p.  339);  and  the  6th  from 
Nemlly  (Porte  Maillot,  p.  160).  These  lines  are  verf  conTanieiit,  as  they 
have  ^correspondance'  with  the  Paris  omnibuses  (see  Appx.),  Imt  um  xoutM 
are  uninteresting.  The  journey  takes  abont  ^4  hr. ;  fares  60  or  30  e.  Tben 
is  also  a  steamer-service  to  Epinay  and  to  Asni^res-Suresnes  (p.  291). 

IY4M.  La  ChapeUe-Nord-Ceinturej  also  a  station  on  the  Ghemln 
de  Fer  de  Celntnre  (p.  25).  The  huge  goods  station  of  the  Ghemln 
de  Fer  du  Nord  is  situated  here.  A  little  beyond  the  fortifleations  the 
Soissons  railway  diverges  to  the  right.  —  2^2  M.  La  Plaine^Voyc^eurs. 
The  *  trains-tramways'  also  stop  at  Le  Landy  and  Pont  de  la  RSvoUe. 

4^2  ^-  St.  Denis.  —  Hotkl  du  Gband-Gbbf,  Bue  de  Paris  29  and 
Place  aux  Gueldres,  with  restaurant  k  la  carte ;  H6tel  db  France  ,  Bue 
de  la  B^publique  60,  with  restaurant,  d^j.  2,  D.  2^9  fr.  —  Ca/4  d€  T/is- 
duttrie,  Rue  du  Chemin-de-Fer  27.  —  The  terminus  of  the  first  two  tram- 
ways above  mentioned  is  in  the  Bue  de  Paris;  that  of  the  third  in  the 
Place  aux  Gueldres.  —  Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  Bue  de  laB^publique  61. 

St.  Denis,  a  prosperous  industrial  town  with  54,450  inhab.,  is 
situated  on  the  right  hank  of  the  Seine  and  on  the  Canal  de  St.  Denis 
(p.  201).  It  is  chiefly  celebrated  as  the  burial-plaoe  of  the  kings  of 
France. 

The  importance  of  the  town  dates  from  the  foundation  of  its  Ben- 
edictine  abbey  by  Dagobert  I.  (d.  638).  Under  the  OarloTingian  dynasty 
the  monks  of  St.  Denis  are  found  concerning  themselres  with  politics^ 
as  well  as  with  spiritual  matters.  When  Pepin  the  Little  took  possession 
of  the  throne  of  France  in  751  he  sent  Fulrad,  Abbot  of  St.  Denis,  to 
Bome,  to  procure  the  papal  confirmation  of  his  title.  Three  years  later  Popg 
Stephen  II.  took  vefnge  here  from  the  Lombards,  and  anointed  Pepin'^s  sons 
Charles  and  Charlemagne.  Here,  in  presence  of  his  nobles,  Pepjbi  handed 
over  his  dominions  to  his  sons  before  he  died.  The  members  of  the 
house  of  Capet  also  favoured  this  abbey.  Louis  VI.,  whose  best  adviser 
was  the  penetrating,  sagacious,  and  liberal  abbot  Suger  (1121-52),  solemnly 
adopted  the  Orijlamme  Canrifiamma' ,  from  its  red  and  gold  colonrs),or  standard 
of  St.  Denis,  as  the  banner  of  the  kings  of  France.  It  was  suspended  above 
the  altar,  whence  it  was  removed  only  when  the  king  took  the  field  in  per- 
son. Its  last  appearance  was  on  the  unfortunate  day  of  Agincourt  (p.  xvi). 
Abilard  (p.  181)  dwelt  in  this  abbey  during  the  12th  cent.,  nntil  he  became 
abbot  of  Paraclete  near  ITogent-sur-Seine.  During  the  absence  of  Louis  VII. 
on  a  crusade  in  the  Holy  Land  (1147-49)  Suger  became  the  administrator 
of  the  kingdom,  and  used  his  power  to  increase  the  dependence  of  the 
nobility  on  the  throne.  Among  the  other  merits  of  this  renowned  abbot, 
is  that  of  having  collected  and  continued  the  chronicles  of  the  &bb^. 
The  Maid  of  Orleans  hung  up  her  arms  in  the  church  of  St.  Denis  in  14!^. 
In  1593  Henri  IV.  abjured  Protestantism  in  this  chnrch,  and  in  1810 
Kapoleon  I.  was  married  here  to  the  Archduchess  Marie  Louise. 

The  railway-station  is  8/4  M.  from  the  cathedral  (omnibus,  iOc). 

To  reach  the  latter  we  cross  the  Canal  de  St.  Denis  (p.  201)  and 

follow  the  Kue  du  Chemin  de  Fer,  and  then  the  Rue  de  la  R^ 

publique.  At  the  beginning  of  the  latter  stands  a  Parish  Churchy  In 

the  style  of  the  13th  cent.,  built  by  Viollet-le-Duc  in  1864-68.  We 

then  cross  the  Rue  de  Pails,  wMcih  iivtfciaftc\'&  \Xi^  Xft'^iw  liom  N.  to  S. 

To  the  left  is  the  Hdtel  de  Ville,  int\ie^ena\%%wi^«k^Vj\«^^^i^s.^N.'«iSS^. 

The  cathedral  is  open  tbe  whole  da^.    T^^*,  ^JlJ^  ^^'^\^;'^,:^'S\v^ 

^eek'days   every   1/,   hr.  between  10  a.m.  atvd.  bSft  -ftm.  V^^^^^N.  »xv\3» 


^iin^^Titi"r*i3 


-lyt^a-  aV'i^^^.J*-'" 


18.  ST.  DENIS.  335 

and  during  service).  Admission  to  the  interior  of  the  church  is  free; 
to  the  treasury  and  crypt  Vs  ^'-t  but  the  attendants  also  expect  a  small 
gratuity.  Admission  is  entirely  free  during  the  church  festival,  Oct.  9-14th. 
Visitors  should  read  the  following  description  hefore  entering  the  church, 
for  very  little  time  is  given  to  examine  the  monuments.  The  efforts  of 
the  attendants  to  hurry  the  visitor  should  not  he  implicitly  yielded  to. 
The  church  is  so  dark  in  the  late  afternoon  that  it  is  then  scarcely  worth 
while  to  enter  it. 

The  *Cathbdral  or  Basilique  of  St.  Denis,  converted  into 
a  parish  church  in  1895,  traditionally  occupies  the  site  of  a 
chapel  elected  ahout  the  year  275  above  the  grave  of  St.  Diony- 
sius,  or  St.  Denis,  the  first  bishop  of  Paris  (p.  205).  Dagobert 
I.  (p.  334)  substituted  a  large  basilica  for  the  chapel,  and  handed 
it  over  to  the  Benedictine  monks,  for  whom  he  also  built  an  abbey 
at  the  si^me  place.  Of  this  church  but  little  remains,  the  greater 
part  of  the  present  edifice  having  been  built  by  Suger  (p.  334). 
Suger's  building  marks  the  beginning  of  the  Gothic  tendency  in 
architecture,  the  development  of  which  from  the  Romanesque  style 
can  be  traced  here,  though  perhaps  not  in  all  details.  The  facade, 
completed  in  1140,  shows  the  round  arch  still  maintaining  its 
ground  along  with  the  pointed  arch  which  afterwards  entirely 
replaced  it.  The  choir,  consecrated  in  1144,  is  surrounded  by 
radiating  chapels,  a  feature  of  the  Romanesque  style,  and  at  the 
same  time  exhibits  the  Gothic  buttress  system  in  an  advanced  stage 
of  development.  A  thorough  restoration  was  carried  out  from  1230 
onwards  by  the  abbots  Eudes  CUmeni  and  Matthieu  de  Venddme,  in 
the  pure  Gothic  style  then  dominant.  The  upper  part  of  the  choir, 
the  whole  of  the  nave,  and  the  transept  were  entirely  rebuilt.  Dur- 
ing the  14th  cent,  additional  chapels  were  erected  in  the  N.  aisle. 
Ruined  during  the  Revolution,  the  church  was  at  first  restored  in- 
efiPectually  and  in  bad  taste ;  but  under  Napoleon  III.,  who  entrusted 
the  work  of  restoration  to  VioUet  -  le  -  Due,  one  of  the  greatest 
Gothic  architects  of  modern  times,  it  regained  much  of  its  ancient 
magnificence. 

The  West  Facade  formed  part  of  the  building  consecrated  by 
Abbot  Suger  in  1140.    It  contains  three  recessed  portals  decorated 
with  sculptures,  which,  however,  have  been  freely  and  somewhat 
•unskilfully  restored.    Those  of  the  S.  portal  represent  the  Months, 
and  St.  Dionysius  in  prison,  after  a  painting  in  the  Louvre  (p.  136) ; 
those  of  the  central  bay,  the  Last  Judgment,  and  the  Wise  and 
Foolish  Virgins;  and  those  of  the  N.  portal,  St.  Dionysius  on  his 
way  to  Montmartre  and  the  signs  of  the  Zodiac.    The  battlements 
along  the  top  of  the  facade  were  erected  for  defensive  purposes 
during  the  14th  century.    Behind  them  rises  the  high-pitched  roof 
of  the  nave,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  St.  Dionysius.  On  tUe.  x\^k!5- 
and  left  are  two  towers,  above  the  side-poitaXs.    ^\i^\.  qw^<&.tv^\. 
rises  for  two  stages  above  the  battlements  an^Lis  ciQ'^Jiv^^Xs^  ^'W^^-^ 
eqaare  roof;  that  on  the  left  is  on  a  level  witb-lYve^  Xo^  oiNiX^^^^^''^^ 
it0  tall  spire  haying  been  shattered  by  l\g\itT\iTiS  m  V^^*^ .  —  ^^^ 


336  18.    ST.  DENIS. 

statues  of  kings  of  Jiidah  and  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Dionysius  on 
the  portal  of  the  N.  transept  are  in  better  preservation,  but  it  is 
impossible  to  obtain  a  near  view  of  them. 

The  Interiob  consists  of  nave  and  aisles,  crossed  by  a  simple 
transept.  Length  354  ft. ,  breadth  130  ft.  The  dim  twilight  of  the 
Vestibule^  which  dates  from  Sugar's  time,  and  is  borne  by  heavy 
columns,  forms  a  striking  contrast  to  the  airy  and  elegant  Nave 
of  the  13th  cent.,  with  its  thirty-seven  large  windows,  each  33  ft. 
high,  its  handsome  triforium-gallery ,  and  its  lofty  columns.  The 
stained-glass  windows  are  nearly  all  modem. 

The  High  Altar  is  a  modern  imitation  of  the  style  of  the  13th 
century.  Behind  it  stands  the  altar  of  St.  Denis  and  his  fellow- 
martyrs  (p.  337). 

The  Church  of  St.  Denis  ifl  chiefly  important  and  interesting  as 
the  BuBiAL  Ghukch  of  tub  Fbemch  Kings,  nearly  all  of  whom  from 
Dagobert  I.  (d.  638)  are  interred  here  with  their  families.  The  numer- 
ons  monuments  of  the  early  period  have  perished  during  the  frequent 
alterations  or  rebuilding  of  the  church.  Louit  IX,  (i!!^-70)  erected 
a  number  of  mausoleums  and  monuments  with  recumbent  figures  in  the 
choir  to  the  memory  of  his  ancestors,  and  from  his  time  down  to 
Henri  IV.  (d.  1610)  monuments  were  erected  to  all  the  monarchs,  as 
well  as  to  several  princes  and  eminent  personages.  After  Henri's  death 
the  coffins  of  his  successors  were  merely  deposited  in  the  royal  vault. 
When  the  Revolution  broke  out,  the  Convention  destroyed  the  royal  tombs 
for  the  sake  of  the  lead  and  bronze,  and  the  bodies  of  the  illustrious 
dead  were  thrown  into  '■fosses  communes''  dug  in  the  neighbourhood.  In 
1817  Louis  XVIII.  caused  the  remains  of  his  ancestors,  as  well  as  those 
of  Louis  XVI.  and  Marie  Antoinette  (p.  197),  to  be  replaced  in  the  crypt. 
At  the  same  time  the  monuments  that  remained  were  replaced  with  many 
arbitrary  alterations  and  restorations,  while  numerous  monuments  from 
other  churches  preserved  in  the  Slus^e  Lenoir  were  also  erected  here. 
During  the  work  of  restoration  under  M.  Viollet-le-Duc  they  were  all 
placed  as  nearly  as  possible  in  their  original  positions,  but  there  are  still 
several  monuments  not  properly  belonging  to  St.  Denis.  There  are  now 
fifty  tombs  and  ten  other  monuments,  besides  statues,  urns,  columns,  and 
bas-reliefs. 

We  now  proceed  to  inspect  the  monuments  in  detail ,  beginning 
with  those  in  the  left  or  N.  transept. 

N.  Side.     Tombs  of  the  Family  of  8t.  Louis,  —   *Tomb  of 
Louis  XII.  (d.  1515)  and  his  consort  Anne  de  Bretagne  (d.  1514), 
probably  executed  in  the  first  half  of  the  16th  cent,  by  Jean 
Juste  of  Tours.    The  king  and  queen  are  represented  on  the  sar- 
cophagus in  a  recumbent  posture,   executed  in  a  rude,   realistic 
manner,  and  again  in  a  kneeling  attitude  above.   The  monument  is 
surrounded  by  twelve  arches,  richly  decorated,  beneath  which  are 
statues  of  the  Twelve  Apostles.  At  the  corners  are  allegorical  figures. 
On  the  pedestal  are  small  reliefs  of  the  entry  of  Louis  XII.  into  Milan 
(1499),  his  passage  of  the  Genoese  mountains  (1507),  his  victory 
over  the  Fenetians  at  AgnadeWo  ^i^O^^,  wvd  their  final  submission. 
—   Then,    to  the  right,  a  ftive  &^^l8^.  toVv^Mi  \ii  ^wl>v,  ^tV»M^ 
commemorating  Henri  III.  ^d.  Ib^^"^.  ^iom^\As  ^^'«^'^, ;^\^^  ^ 
^Ae  right  of  the  high-altat,  the  tom\>  o^  Do^ohetl  1.  V^,VitK>V  «^ 


18.   ST.  DBNIS.  337 

interesting  monument  of  the  13th  cent.,  with  curious  allegorical 
reliefs  representing  the  king's  soul  leaving  his  hody  and  its  reception 
in  heayen,  a  recumhent  statue  of  Dagohert  (modern) ,  and  erect 
statues  of  Sigebert,  Dagobert*s  son  (modem),  and  Queen  Nantilde 
(13th  cent.).  —  To  the  left,  *Tomb  of  Henri  II,  (d.  1559)  and  his 
queen  CatKtfint  de  Midieis  fd.  1589),  the  masterpiece  of  Germain 
Pilorhy  executed  in  1564-8^.  This  fine  work  consists  of  white 
marble,  adorned  with  bronze  statues  of  the  four  cardinal  virtues  at  the 
comers.  The  deceased  are  represented  twice,  by  nude  marble  figures 
on  the  tomb,  and  by  bronze  figures,  full  of  vitality,  in  a  kneeling 
posture  above  the  entablature.  Behind  aie  monuments  of  the  family 
of  Yalois,  to  see  which  properly  we  ascend  some  steps.  —  Ti^ihe  left, 
another  monument  to  Henri  II,  and  Catherine  de  Midicis  (see  above)  j 
recumbent  marble  figures  on  a  bronse  couch.  It  is  said  that  in  her 
old  age  the  queen  disapproved  of  the  nude  figures  on  the  other  mon- 
ument, and  caused  these  robed  and  elderly  effigies  to  be  executed. 
The  chapels  round  the  choir,  which  we  now  pass,  contain  no 
monuments ;  but  the  chapel  of  the  Virgin  has  ancient  stained-glass 
windows,  a  mosaic  pavement  dating  from  the  12th  cent.,  and 
sculptured  scenes  from  the  life  of  Ohiist.  We  now  pass  behind 
the  altar  of  St.  Denis  and  his  fellow-martyrs,  SS.  Rusticus  and 
Eleutherus,  known  as  the  Confession  de  8t,  Denis ,  another  piece 
of  modem  workmanship,  containing  reliquaries.  On  one  side  is  a 
representation  of  the  Oriflamme  (p.  334). 

The  Sacristy,  to  the  S.  of  the  choir,  is  adorned  with  ten  modern 
paintings  relating  to  the  history  of  the  abbey. 

The  Tbbasubt  is  contained  in  a  room  adijoining  the  Sacristy  on  the 
left.  Of  the  valuable  articles  which  were  formerly  kept  here  St.  Denis 
itself  now  possesses  none.  The  greatest  artistic  value  among  the  remain- 
ing objects  is  possessed  by  a  copper  altar-piece,  in  repoussd  work,  of  the 
13th  cent.,  on  the  right  wall.  On  the  right  wall  are  a  gilt  copper  cross 
(divided  lengthwise  into  two  sections,  which  are  hung  apart  from  each 
other),  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  and  another  silver  altar,  of  the  period 
of  Louis  XIV.  In  the  glass-case  is  a  large  modem  monstrance,  in  the 
style  of  the  13th  century. 

S.  Side.  Opposite  the  Sacristy :  The  interesting  Tom6  of  Fri- 
digonde  (d.  597),  which  was  formerly  in  the  Church  of  St.  Ger- 
main-des-Pres.  The  figure  of  the  queen  is  represented  by  a  kind 
of  mosaic,  formed  of  small  pieces  of  differently  coloured  marble 
mingled  with  minute  pieces  of  copper.  The  hands  and  feet  are 
of  the  colour  of  the  stone  itself,  the  shape  being  indicated  only 
by  the  lines  of  the  mosaic ,  and  seem  to  have  been  originally  paint- 
ed. Some  authorities  consider  the  tombstone  contemporaneous 
with  the  queen,  while  others,  with  more  probability,  refer  it  to  the 
11th  or  12th  century.  —  We  now  descend  a  flight  of  steps,  to  the 
right  of  which  is  the  entrance  to  the  crypt. 

The  Crtpt,  whieh  was  built  by  Sugtr  lot  t\ift  "\>ou«*  Qi  VXi^  >^vtt^>£vv^^ 
martyrs,  lies  immediately  under  the  apse,  and.  \i«ba  k  t\iOvc  «v\CAx«i\fe«N^  ^N>2^ 
chapels  corresponding  exactly  with  those  ot  tYie  ti\iT«Ci\i  ttJoQ^ft-  "^^^  ^"^"tx- 
traJ  part  of  the  crypt  ^    under   the  sanctuwy  ,   U  ocftwv^e^^  "^^^  VN^v^  \>^v^^^^ 
Bahojcjcks.  Paris.  iUh  Edit.  ">*">* 


338  18.  ST.  DENIS. 

vault  of  the  Boarbons,  which  was  formed  by  Henri  II.  and  now  contains 
the  coffins  of  the  following  royal  and  princely  personages:  Louis  XVI. ^ 
Marie  Antoinette,  Louis  XV I II.,  Adilaids  and  Vietoire  do  France;  the  Due 
de  Berri  and  two  of  his  children;  Louis  Jossph  and  Louii  Henri  Joseph, 
the  last  two  princes  of  the  house  of  Cond^;  lastly,  Louis  VII.,  formerly 
in  the  Abbey  of  Barbean  near  Helunf  hnd.  Louise  of  Lorraine,  wife  of 
Henri  III.,  from  the  Eglise  des  Gapucins  in  the  Place  Venddme.  The 
remains  brought  back  in  1817  firom  the  ^fosses  communes'  (p.  836)  are 
placed  In  a  vault  at  the  end  of  the  ambulatory.  —  A^acent  is  the  *Caveaa 
Imperial' ,  constructed  by  Kapoleon  III.  as  the  burial-vault  of  his  dynasty, 
but  quite  untenanted.  —  In  the  crypt-chapels  and  by  the  external  wall  of 
the  central  part  of  the  crypt  are  a  few  indifferent  statues,  including  a 
Statue  of  Marie  Antoinette,  a  kneeling  figure  in  a  ball  dress,  by  Peiiiot; 
a  Statue  of  Louis  XVI.,  by  Gaulle;  a  Statue  of  Diana  of  France,  of  the 
16th  cent. ;  four  colossal  allegorical  figures  intended  to  form  part  of  a 
monumelA  to  the  Due  de  Berri ;  and  monuments  to  Henri  IV.,  Louis  XIII., 
Louis  XIV.,  Louis  XV.,  etc. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  flight  of  steps,  to  the  right  of  the  choir : 
Monument  of  Du  Oueaclin,  'comte  de  Longuevllle  et  Gonnestable  de 
France'  (d.  1380),  one  of  France's  most  heroic  warriors  in  her 
contests  with  England.  In  the  left  eye  is  indicated  the  wound 
which  the  constable  received  in  battle.  The  tomb  of  his  compan- 
ion-in-arms, the  Constable  Louis  de  Saneerre  (d.  1402)  is  close  by. 
—  Statue  of  Charles  V.  (d.  1380) ,  formerly  in  the  Eglise  des  C^es- 
tins,  a  master- work  of  the  16th  century.  —  Tomb  ofRenie  de  Longue- 
ville  (d.  1515),  a  daughter  of  Francis  II,  Duke  of  Longueville, 
who  died  at  the  age  of  seven  years ;  also  from  the  Eglise  des  0^- 
lestins.  —  In  the  choir,  to  the  right,  are  several  less  important 
monuments ;  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  altar,  the  Monuments  of 
Blanche  and  Jean,  children  of  St.  Louis,  of  enamelled  copper,  the 
figures  in  repouss^  work,  probably  executed  at  Limoges;  Blanche's 
monument  formerly  stood  in  the  abbey  of  Poissy,  Jean's  in  that  of 
Royaumont.  — -  To  the  left,  *  Monument  of  Francis  /.  (d.  1547),  with 
kneeling  figures  of  the  king,  his  wife  Claude,  and  their  three  child- 
ren on  the  entablature,  and  scenes  from  the  battles  of  Marignano  and 
Oeresole,  in  relief,  on  the  pedestal.  This  monument  is  in  the  same 
style  as  that  of  Louis  XII.,  and  is  still  finer.  It  is  said  to  be  the 
Joint  production  of  Philibert  Delorme,  Pierre  Bontemps,  Marchand, 
and  other  artists.  —  *Vm,  containing  the  heart  of  Francis  I., 
originally  destined  for  the  Abbey  des  Hautes  Bruydres  near  Ram- 
bouillet,  a  masterpiece  in  the  Renaissance  style  by  Pierre  Bon" 
temps.  —  Monument  of  Louis  d'OrlSans  (d.  1407)  and  Valentine  de 
Milan  (d.  1408),  erected  by  their  grandson,  Louis  XII.,  in  the  Eg- 
lise des  G^lestins,  and  Monument  of  Charles  d*Etampes  (d.  1336), 
a  masterpiece  of  the  14th  century,  with  statues  of  the  deceased  and 
24  statuettes  of  apostles  and  martyrs. 

The  extensive  building  which  adjoins  the  church  was  erected 

by  Louis  XIV,  and  Louis  XV.  on  the  site  of  the  old  Abbey.    Since 

i8i5  it  bag  been  the  seat  of  t^ie  *MaUon  d'Educalloiv  d«.  la  lAgion 

d'ffonneur',   a  school  affording  a  tie^  e^xxti^XJiotv  Xft  ^^w.^\.«i^  ^\ 

of  (leers  on  active  service  down  to  iYve  t«lw)l  oUv^UVw,  wv^^'l  'svV^x^^^ 


18.   ENGHIEN-LES-BAINS.  339 

members  of  the  Legion  of  Honour  occupying  a  corresponding  social 
position.  The  privilege  is  granted  only  for  one  daughter  of  each 
member,  but  the  other  children,  or  the  granddaughters,  sisters, 
nieces,  and  cousins  of  those  entitled  to  the  privilege,  are  admitted 
for  an  annual  payment.  The  pupils,  who  number  upwards  of  500, 
are  uniformly  dressed  in  black,  and  the  discipline  is  of  an  almost 
military  character.   Strangers  are  not  admitted. 

Near  the  Place  aux  Gueldres,  on  the  side  of  the  town  next  Paris, 
is  an  old  13th  cent,  church  known  as  the  PeiiU'Paroisaej  converted 
with  the  adjoining  Carmelite  convent  into  a  law-court  in  1896. 
Princess  Louise  Marie  of  France  (d.  1787),  daughter  of  Louis  XV., 
was  abbess  of  this  convent,  which  she  entered  in  1770. 

In  the  Seine,  beyond  the  railway,  is  the  lU  8t,  Denis,  and  on  the 
opposite  bank  is  the  Plaine  d€  QtmMvilliert^  with  the  village  of  that  name, 
2t/t  M.  ttom  St.  Denis  (p.  291). 

n.  From  St.  Denis  to  Enghien  and  Montmorency. 

Railway  to  (3  M.)  Enghien  in  10-15  min.  (65,45,  30  c.)-,  from  Enghien 
to  (2  M.)  Montmorency  in  7  min.  (50  or  35  c).    iSramway,  see  below. 

A  short  way  beyond  St.  Denis  the  main  line  of  the  Chemin  de 
Far  du  Nord  (R.  22)  diverges  to  the  right.  Our  line  passes  the 
Fort  de  la  Briehe,  To  the  left  flows  the  Seine.  —  6  M.  (from  Paris) 
Epinayj  a  village  of  2860  inhab.,  connected  with  Paris  (Square  de  la 
Trinit^  by  an  electric  tramway,  and  with  St.  Denis,  Asnieres,  etc. 
by  steamboat.  —  Railway  to  Beaumont,  see  pp.  348,  347. 

From  Epimat  to  Koist-lb-Sec,  8  M.,  Grande  Ceint^re  Railway.  The 
chief  station  is  (5i^  M.)  Le  Bourget  (p.  379).  —  At  Noiey-le-8ec  (BlOO  inhab.) 
the  Grande  Geinture  Railway  joins  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  TEst.  See 
p.  304  and  Baedeker' t  Northern  France, 

The  Grande  Ceintnre  Railway  also  runs  from  Epinay  to  (S'/s  M.)  Ar- 
genteuil  (p.  841),  skirting  the  Seine. 

7  M.  La  Barre-Ormeason,  two  'dtfpendances'  of  Epinay,  to  the 
right  and  left 

7V2  M.  Enghien-les-Bains.  —  Hotels-Restaurants.  Des  Bains,  at 
the  Etahlissement;  Quatrb - Pavillons  ,  opposite  the  lake;  Hut.  db  la 
Paix,  Grande-Rue  50,  at  these  three,  d^j.  4,  D.  5  fr. ;  Qb.  Hut.  d'Enghibm, 
Grande-Rue  73,  d^j.  3-4,  D.  4-6  fr. 

Oaf 6.  Kiosque  Chinois,  on  the  hanks  of  the  lake.  —  Casino,  adjoining^ 
16  fr.  per  month ,  45  fr.  per  season ;  2  pers.  25  or  80  fr. :  3  pers.  30  or 
90  fr. 

Mineral  Water,  10  c.  per  glass ;  subscription  for  a  fortnight  3J/2  fr. ;  sul- 
phur-baths 2-6,  douche  V/2-iVi  fr-  5  less  for  subscribers.  —  Small  Boats 
on  the  lake,  2  fr.  per  'course'  (2Vt  fr.  on  Sun.)  and  >/«  fr-  additional  fur 
each  pers.  more  than  one;  ferry  across  the  lake  Vhtr. 

Gabs  at  the  station :  per  br.  21/2  fr.  (3  fr.  on  Sun.  and  holidays) ;  to 
Montmorency,  2V4  or  2Vt  fr- 

Electric  Tramway,  every   10  min.  from  the  station:   1.  To  St.  Oratien 
(p.  340),  vi&  Enghien  and  the  lake  (25  and  30  c.)\  2.  To  Mon\.mov«tvc\j 
(p.  340;  25  and  30  c).    The  latter  line  ends  about  b  m\w.  \.o  \.\v«^^.  ^^  ^^^ 
Place  do  Jtfarcli^,  which  is  reached  by  the  Rue  C\a\tvaMi(>  a,w^^wfe^vcc\N.v\\.» 
The  stoppiDg-places  at  the  Orangerie  (15  and  25  c.>  xvneL  ^V.N^\exi  <9-^  ^^«^ 
30  c.)  are  nearer  the  church. 

Post  &  Tklegbapu  Officb,  Grande-Rxie  83. 


340  18.   MONTMORENCY. 

Enghien^  a  pretty  little  modern  town  with  3330  inhab.,  is  pleas- 
antly situated  on  the  banks  of  a  wooded  lake  (72  M.  long,  Yi  M. 
broad),  and  near  the  forest  of  Montmorency.  It  enjoys  some  repu- 
tation for  its  cold  Sulphur  Springs,  discovered  in  1776,  but  its  proxim- 
ity to  Paris  has  prevented  it  becoming  so  fashionable  as  the  more 
distant  spas.  The  EtablissemerU,  at  the  end  of  the  Grande-Rue,  is 
a  modern  and  well-organized  building.    The  Church  is  modem. 

St.  Oratien^  a  village  situated  about  1  M.  beyond  the  lake,  to  the  right, 
is  uninteresting.  The  church  contains  a  modem  monument  to  Marshal 
Catinat  (1637-1712)  and  two  pretty  groups  of  children  in  bronze.  Tramway, 
see  p.  839. 

About  3/^  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Enghien  is  the  Race  Course  (adm. 
3  fr.  for  a  pedestrian),  which  is  served  by  a  special  railway-station. 

The  distance  from  Enghien  to  Montmorency  in  a  direct  line  is  only 
1  M.,  but  the  train  makes  a  detour  and  passes  La  J\>int9  Roquet  and  SoUff. 
Fine  views.  —  Walkers  from  Enghien  to  Montmorency  follow  the  Rue  da 
Chemin-de-Fer,  on  the  other  side  of  the  railway,  and  then  take  the  first 
turning  on  the  left  and  the  second  on  the  right,  opposite  the  Protestant 
Church. 

Montmorency.  —  Hotels.  Hotsl  dsFbanok,  at  the  station,  R.,  L., 
&  A.  3Vs>  B.  1,  d^j.  2Vt,  D.  3,  pens.  10  fr.;  db  la  Gabb,  opposite  the 
station,  d^j.2,  D.  2V2fr. ;  du  Chbval  Blanc,  Place  du  March^.  —  Oaf6s- 
Restaurants.  Chalet  des  Fleurt^  at  the  station,  d^j.  2V2i  I>.  3  f'-i  Trots 
Ifousquetaires^  at  the  Hermitage,  with  a  casino. 

HoBSES  IV2-4  fr.  per  hr.,  bargaining  advisable  on  Sun.  and  holidays. 
Asses  l-2Va  fr*  per  hr.  —  Gomp.  the  Map,  p.  334. 

Montmorency,  an  ancient  town  with  6000  inhab. ,  is  charmingly 
situated  on  a  hill  covered  with  orchards.  It  is  another  favourite 
summer-resort  of  the  Parisians,  chiefly  owing  to  its  beautiful  forest. 

Montmorency  has  given  its  name  to  an  illustrious  family,  which  has 
counted  among  its  members  6  constables  of  France,  12  marshals,  4  ad- 
mirals, several  cardinals,  etc.  The  town  was  once  the  residence  of 
Rousseau,  who  spent  two  years  (1756-58)  in  the  house  called  the  ^Ermitage 
de  Jean  Jacques  Rousseau'*,  and  there  wrote  his  Nouvelle  Hsloise,  This 
unpretending  abode  was  fitted  up  for  the  philosopher''s  use  by  the  Countess 
d'Epinay,  in  order  to  prevent  his  return  to  Geneva.  During  the  Revolution 
the  Hermitage  became  national  property,  and  was  for  a  time  occupied  by 
Robespierre.  In  1798  it  was  purchased  by  the  composer  Qritry,  who  died 
here  in  1813. 

The  old  town,  with  its  steep  and  winding  streets,  is  the  part 

nearest  to  Enghien.   Here  stood  the  chateau,  plundered  in  1814 

and  afterwards  destroyed.    Turning  to  the  left  (Orangerie)  and  then 

to  the  right,  by  the  Rue  du  Temple,  we  pass  an  interesting  JSmois- 

sance  House,  with  fine  sculptures.    A  little  farther  on  is  the  Church, 

with  its  small  but  conspicuous  spire,  which  dates  from  the  14th  cent. 

and  contains  the  tombs  of  two  Polish  generals.  The  Rue  du  March^, 

the  continuation  of  the  Rue  du  Temple  beyond  the  church  and  the 

Hotel  de  Ville  (on  the  left),  ends  at  the  Place  du  March<f,  which  is 

connected  with  the  tramway-terminus  by  the  Rue  Camot.  From  the 

Marcb^  the  handsome  Avenue  E.mVY\e\^^^^^}^\Q^]L^h  a  better  modern 

quarter  to  the  station.    On  t^e  oip^o^VX.^  ^^  ^\^^^\^«8. 'Qb^  ojsMa^Ki 

of  Lea  Champeaux.    The  BoulcNai^  ^e  \'^xm\\^%e;\^^S«.  \\\^^\.  V»\sw 

the  station   to  (3/^  M.)  the  sHe  ot  Uom*e«^v\'%\\^vvsv\\a.%^,  t^s^  ^^- 


18.    MONTMORENCY.  341 

cupied  by  an  electric  factory.  To  the  left  is  the  Chdtaigneraie^  a  fine 
group  of  chestnuts. 

A  small  Routteau  Miueum  was  opened  in  1899  beside  the  new  schools, 
situated  near  the  tramway-terminus,  on  the  right  as  we  come  from  the 
market-place  yi4  the  Bue  Camot  and  Bue  Clairvaux. 

The  FosBST  of  Montmobenoy,  which  begins  to  the  S.E.  of  the 
Ch&taigneraie  and  extends  to  the  N,W.  for  a  distance  of  5^2  M.,  with 
a  breadth  of  IVi'^^Vs  ^m  covers  a  very  irregular  tract,  the  highest 
point  of  which  is  600  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  forest  consists  mainly 
of  chestnuts  and  has  been  left  to  a  great  extent  in  a  natural  state, 
a  fact  which  adds  to  its  attractions  but  makes  it  difficult  for  the 
stranger  to  find  his  way.  Some  of  the  higher  points  command  charm- 
ing views.  The  pleasantest  route,  well-marked  and  easy  to  follow, 
ascends  beyond  the  station  and  skirts  the  S.  slopes,  which  afford 
fine  views,  to  Andillyy  1^2  M.  to  the  N.W.  From  the  hill  just  above 
this  village,  the  prospect  extends  to  the  heights  of  Montmartrc, 
Mont  Yal^rien,  and  St.  6ermain-en-Laye.  On  this  plateau  stands 
the  Fort  of  Montlignon,  named  after  a  neighbouring  village.  Riders 
generally  prolong  the  excursion  to  the  Croix  Blarhche  (restaurant), 
a  point  a  little  farther  to  the  N.,  which  may  also  be  reached  direct 
from  Montmorency.  About  3/4  M.  farther  on  in  the  same  direction 
is  the  village  of  Domont  (p.  347),  and  to  the  right  of  the  road  is  the 
fort  of  the  same  name.  From  the  Croix  Blanche  we  may  descend 
to  the  W.  to  the  (16-20  min.)  Carre  four  du  Pont  d'Enghien  (caf^- 
restaurant),  whence  a  path  to  the  right  leads  to  (10  min.)  the 
Chateau  de  la  Chasse^  with  the  scanty  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the  14th 
cent.,  surrounded  by  ponds  and  moats.  This  spot  is  about  4  M.  to 
the  N.W.  of  Montmorency  and  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  forest. 

m.  From  Enghien  to  Paris  viH  Argenteoil. 

lOVt  M.  Bailwat  in  42WK)  min. ;  fares  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  20,  80  c. 

The  train  passes  the  Lac  d^Enghien  on  the  left  and  the  race- 
course of  Enghien  (p.  340)  on  the  right.  Fine  view  on  the  same 
side.  On  a  height  in  the  distance  rises  the  tower  of  the  Chdteau 
de  la  Tour,  above  8U  Prix  (1  M.  from  St.  Leu,  see  p.  348).  —  8  M. 
(from  Paris)  St.  Oratierk,  —  972  M.  Ermont.  Railway  to  Pontoise 
and  to  Yalmondois,  see  R.  19. 

The  line  now  turns  to  the  S.  Beyond  (10  M.)  Sannois  the 
train  descends,  between  the  hills  of  Orgemont  on  the  left  and  of  San- 
nois and  Cormeillea  on  the  right,  to  the  valley  of  the  Seine. 

1172  M.  Argenteuil  (Soleil  d'Or,  with  restaurant,  near  the 
bridge;  Cafes-Restaurants,  at  the  station),  an  ancient  town  with 
16,120  inhab.,  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Seine  aud.!?*  IVsls.  V^^^- 
quarters  of  pleasure-boat  sailing  on  tVi&l  iivw.   TVfe  V\w<b  ^\  Wt- 
gentevil  is  mediocref   but  its  asparagus  U  ^us*^-^  cfe\^x?Afe^-    ^^ 
Jacent  to  the  Oare  de  rOuest,  in  the  "N.W  .  oi  tV^  Vq^w,  X^^^  '^^^ 
station  of  the  Ligne  de  Grande  Oeinture  (^lox^;^^^^!^^.  ^^vKsvi.  ^"^^^ 


342  18.  ARGENTEUIL. 

see  pp.  339,  333).  The  road  to  the  left  from  the  exit  of  the  station 
leads  to  the  Seine,  that  straight  in  front  to  the  interior  of  the  town. 

The  Church,  near  the  other  end  of  the  town,  is  a  modem  Ro« 
manesque  stmcture  hy  Ballu,  with  a  lofty  tower. 

This  church  hoasts  of  poMessing  the  seamless  coat  of  Our  Saviour 
(distinct  from  the  seamless  rohe  or  upper  garment  at  Treves),  said  to  have 
been  presented  hy  Charlemagne  to  a  convent  at  Argeuteuil  of  which  his 
daughter  Theodrada  was  abbess.  The  relic  is  preserved  in  a  large  modern 
reliquary  above  the  altar  in  the  right  transept,  and  is  usually  displayed 
on  Frid.  (at  other  times  on  application). 

Beyond  Argentenil,  farther  down  the  river,  a  new  Aquedttct 
Bridge  carries  part  of  the  liquid  sewage  of  Paris  across  the  Seine. 
On  the  left  bank  a  Pump  raises  the  sewage  to  the  top  of  the  plain 
of  Argentenil,  whence  it  flows  towards  Herhlay  (p.  343),  near  which 
part  of  it  recrosses  the  Seine  hy  means  of  a  siphon  to  fertilize  the 
fields  of  Ach^res,  while  the  rest  is  distributed  elsewhere. 

A  little  beyond  the  bridge  is  CokMnbes  (see  below),  on  this  side  of 
which  is  its  Eace  Course.  From  Golombes  the  latter  is  reached  either  by 
the  road  descending  towards  Ai^enteuil  or  by  the  road  leading  to  the  new 
bridge  (comp.  the  Map.). 

We  now  cross  the  Seine.  13V2  M.  Colombes  (16,800  inhab.) ; 
14  M.  Boia-de'Colornbe8  (10,500  inhab.);  15  M.  Asnihrea  (p.  291). 
—  18  M.  Paris  (Gare  St.  Lazare,  p.  26). 

19.  The  Valley  of  the  Oise. 

L  From  Paris  to  Fontoise. 

18-22  M.  Railway  in  ^a-V/*  hr.  (fares  3  fr.  56,  2  fr.  65, 1  fr.  95  c),  either 
from  (1)  the  Cfare  du  Nord.  via  St.  Denis,  Enghien,  and  Ermont;  or  from 
(2)  the  Ocwe  St.  Lazare^  via  Argenteuil  and  Ermont)  or  from  (3)  the  Oare 
St.  Lazare^  via  Argenteuil  and  Gonflans  -  Ste  -  Honorine  *,  or  from  (4)  the 
Oare  St.  Lazare^  via  Maisons-Laffitte  and  Acheres.  The  return- tickets  (4  fr. 
85,  3  fr.  50,  2  fr.  30  c.)  of  the  Ligne  du  Kord  are  also  available  vii  Ar- 
genteuil and  Ermont  and  vice  versa,  but  not  by  the  other  routes.  Those 
who  have  time  should  go  on  as  far  as  Beaumont  and  return  hj  one  of 
the  two  lines  described  farther  on.    Comp.  the  Map,  p.  3^4. 

Maitons  Laffttte  may  also  be  reached  by  a  tramwav  starting  at  the 
Porte  de$  Temee  (PL  B,  9),  and  running  via  NeuiUy  (p.  159),  the  Pont  Bi- 
neau,  Cowbevoie  (p.  291),  La  Garenne  (p.  826),  Bezon*  (p.  326),  HowUe*  (p.  843), 
and  Sartrowrille  (p.  344) ;  but  this  route  is  uninteresting.  —  The  racecourse 
at  Maisons  is  served  by  special  trains  from  Paris  vi&  St.  Oermain-en- 
Laye  (fares  4,  3,  or  2  fr.). 

1.  Via  St.  Dbnis  or  Arobntbuil  and  Ermont.  —  For  the  two 
routes  from  Paris  to  (9*/2M.)  Ermont,  beyond  which  they  are  iden- 
tical, see  pp.  333-341.    Ligne  de  Valmondois,  see  p.  348. 

To  the  right  is  seen  the  ch&teau  of  La  Tour,  rising  from  the 

Forest  of  Montmorency  on  a  height  in  the  distance ;  to  the  left,  the 

Mills  of  CormeilUs  (p.  343).  —  10  M.  C«mai/.  —  llV2M.-FVancon- 

v/Ue.    The  village  is  about  ^/^ M.  to  >^ft  ^.  ^it t^^  station,  and  1  M. 

from  Cormeilles  (p.  343).    Vfe  neTil  %ftft  IV?^  Eotlo^  CionM»X«*.,^\ 

the  W.  end  of  the  chain  of  \iW\s.  —  V^  ^.  Mo-ullgw^-^t^^Vaweft*. 

J^ontigny,  about  1  i/j  M,  to  the  S.^.,  ^^  mQT^^Q^^«vv\«^\^i^w2ti'^^ 


19.   CONFLANS-STE-HONORINE.  343 

by  the  following  line.  —  15  M.  Pierrelaye.  Farther  on,  a  junction 
line  branches  off  to  the  right  towards  Beaumont  (p.  346).  —  18  M. 
St.  Ouen-VAumGne  (p.  345).  —  On  the  right  we  have  a  fine  view 
of  Pontoise.  To  the  left  our  line  is  joined  by  that  from  Achdres  fsee 
p.  344).   The  train  crosses  the  Oise,  —  I8V2  M.  Pontoise  (p.  344). 


2.  Via  Arobntbuil  and  Gontlans-Saintb-Honobine.  —  From 
Paris  to  (6  M.)  Argenteuilj  see  p.  341.  This  railway  then  crosses 
the  Ligne  de  Grande  Ceinture,  and  diverges  to  the  left  from  the 
Ermont  line,  making  a  wide  carve  to  the  N.  in  a  deep  cutting,  and 
again  approaching  the  Grande  Geinture.  It  then  turns  again  to  tho 
N.W.  and  runs  along  a  high  embankment  among  the  vineyards  of 
Argenteuil.  To  the  right  stretch  the  fortified  heights  of  Sannois 
(440  ft.)  and  CormeiUes  (545  ft.),  commanding  a  fine  view,  to  the 
W.,  of  the  valley  of  the  Seine.  In  the  distance  is  the  hill  of  the 
Hautil  (p.  344),  between  the  Seine  and  the  Gise.  —  IOV2  M.  Cor- 
meiUes-en-ParisiSj  a  large  village  picturesquely  situated  on  the  S.W. 
slopes  of  the  hill  of  the  same  name.  Near  the  church  (13-15th  cent. ; 
modern  tower)  is  a  bust  of  Daguerre  (1787-1851),  a  native  of  Gor- 
meilles  (comp.  p.  306).  We  traverse  another  deep  cutting  and  two 
viaducts  above  the  valley  in  which  lies  the  village  of  La  Frette^  on 
the  bank  of  the  Seine.  To  the  right  are  the  curious  Butte  de  Iji 
Tuile  (390  ft.)  and  Montigny  (another  station,  see  p.  342),  prettily 
situated  at  the  end  of  the  heights  of  Gormeilles,  about  1  M.  from 
Herblay.  The  church  of  Montigny  contains  some  good  wood-carvings 
of  the  time  of  Louis  XV.  —  l^Vs  M.  Herblay^  a  large  village  with 
a  conspicuous  church  (12th  cent.),  on  the  steep  right  bank  of  the 
Seine,  opposite  the  wood  of  St.  Germain-en-Laye. 

I5V2  M.  Conflans-Sainte-Honorine  (^Cafi- Restaurant  on  tho 
Qua!)  is  a  large  village  picturesquely  situated  on  the  steep  right 
bank  of  the  Seine.  On  the  height  are  a  square  Tower,  the  relic  of 
a  castle,  and  the  Church  (12-16th  cent.),  behind  which  is  a  handsome 
modern  Chdteau.  The  confluence  of  the  Seine  and  Gise,  from  which 
the  village  takes  its  name,  is  about  ^2  M«  lower  down,  near  the 
station  of  Confians-Fin-d' Oise  (see  p.  344). 

The  continuation  of  the  line  to  Mantes  (see  Baedeker's  Northern 
France)  here  diverges  to  the  left,  while  our  line  turns  to  the  N.  — 
17  V2  M.  Eragny-Neuville,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Gise.  Here  we 
join  the  following  route. 

3.  Via.  Maisons  -  Laffittb  and  Aoh^rbb.   —  From  Paris  to 
(51/2  M.)  La  Garenne-BesonSy  see  p.  326.   Here  the  line  to  St.  Ger- 
main-en-Laye (p.  329)  diverges  to  the  left.    To  tl^^  tv%\A.  S».  "C^^ 
asylum  of  Petit-Nanterre,  and  faithei  on  w^  M^etAftTjSV  ^^^  "^^ 
heights  of  Montmorency ,   Sannois,    and  CoTmei\\\ft^%  Xq  ^^  ^k^'^^ 

Mont  Valprlen.     We  Again    cross   the  Se\T\«>.    —  ^  ^-  Ilo\*.xU?,v- 
Carrieres-St-Denis,    The  former  of  these  ^lU^ea  W^^  xie^^  '^'^'^  ^^^^^ 


344  19.  MAISONS-LAFFITTE. 

way,  to  the  right,  the  latter  about  1^2  ^*  to  the  left  on  the  Seine, 
about  halfway  to  Ghatou.  The  church  of  Garridres  contains  an 
interesting  stone  altar-piece  (12th  cent.).  To  the  left,  we  see  St. 
Germain  with  its  terrace.  From  this  point  to  Achdres  our  line 
coincides  with  the  Ligne  de  Grande-Geinture  (p.  333).  —  10  M. 
Sartrouville  is  prettily  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Seine, 
^/2  M.  to  the  right.  It  may  also  be  reached  by  the  Ligne  de  Grande 
Ceinture  (p.  333),  or,  most  conveniently,  by  the  tramway  at  the 
bridge  of  Maisons.  To  the  right  is  the  chateau  of  Maisons.  We 
again  cross  the  Seine. 

10 V2  ^*  Maisons-Laffttte.  —  HfiTSL  du  Solbil-d'Ob^  at  the  end 
of  the  Avenue  Longueil.  —  GafAs-Bbstaubants  :  Pavilion  du  Horloge,  at  the 
end  of  that  avenue^  du  Parc^  behind  the  preceding,  at  the  entrance  to 
the  park;  Caf4  de  la  Station.  —  Post  A  Teleffrtq>h  Of/Ice,  Avenue  Longaeil. 

—  Tramway^  near  the  station.  —  Railway  to  the  Race  Cowtey  see  below. 

Maisons- Laffitte J  a  town  with  6600  inhab. ,  is  finely  situated 
near  the  forest  of  St.  Germain,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine.  The 
broad  Avenue  Longueil,  beginning  near  the  station,  leads  past  the 
Mairie  (1890)  to  the  entrance  to  the  Park,  which  was  parcelled  out 
in  building-lots  by  M.  Laffltte,  the  banker ,  and  is  now  studded 
with  the  villas  of  Parisian  financiers  and  artists.  The  Chdteau 
(visitors  admitted),  to  the  right,  was  erected  by  Mansart  in  the 
17th  cent,  for  Ren^  de  Longueil,  Surintendant  des  Finances.  It 
contains  some  ancient  sculptures,  some  handsome  furniture,  and  a 
room  once  occupied  by  Voltaire.  —  In  the  vicinity  are  an  Important 
Race  Course,  on  a  special  branch-line,  and  a  Oolf  Course, 

From  Maisons-Laffitte  to  St,  Oermain-en-Laye  and  Argenteuil  by  the 
Grande-Ceinture,  see  p.  333.  —  St.  Germain  is  4  M.  from  Maisons  by  the 
road  leading  via  Le  Memily  Carrihre»-tout-Boi$,  and  the  Forest. 

We  next  pass  through  the  lower  part  of  the  forest  of  St.  Ger- 
main. —  At  (I372  M.)  Achlres  (buffet)  our  line  diverges  to  the 
right  from  those  of  the  Grande-Geinture  and  Eouen,  both  of  which 
pass  (3  M.)  Poissy  (p.  333).  Farther  on  is  a  station  for  the  village 
of  Ach^res,  beyond  which  we  again  cross  the  Seine,  near  Its  con- 
fluence with  the  Oise.  To  the  left  is  the  hill  of  the  Hautil  or  HautU 
(556  ft. ;  fine  view).   Fine  view  of  Gonflans  to  the  right. 

16  M.  ConflanS'Fin-d'Oisey  about  V2M.  from  the  village  (p.  3431. 
Near  the  station  the  Oise  is  crossed  by  a  suspension-bridge  (toll  5  c.). 
To  reach  (I72  M.)  Andrisy,  we  cross  the  bridge  and  turn  to  the  left 

—  Our  line  again  follows  for  a  short  distance  the  left  bank  of  the 
Oise,  passing  under  the  lofty  viaduct  of  the  line  to  Mantes.  The 
river  a  little  farther  on  makes  a  detour  of  6  M.  —  19  M.  Eragny- 
NeuvilUj  where  we  join  the  line  from  Paris  vi&  Argenteuil  and 

ConQans  (p.  343).  Then  8t.  Ouen-VAumdne  (see  p.  345).  To  the 
right  is  the  Nord  line  to  Patia  &iv3L^fcvwsiQw\\  tJi  the  left  the  Hue 
to  PoDtoise,  crossing  the  sttewsi. 

22  M.  (id  M.)  PontoiBe  (H6lel  dt  la  Gate,  mu\  ^^^wX^W., 
botli  at  the  station),  a  town  willi^OQ^  s^v^\i.,^\QX>x^^^^'^M^^N5«^&^ 


19.  PONTOISE.  315 

on  a  height  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oise.  The  town  dates  from 
the  days  of  the  Romans,  and  from  an  early  period  played  a  somewhat 
important  part  in  French  history,  owing  to  its  position  as  capital  of 
the  Vexin  (Veliocasses)  and  its  proximity  to  Paris.  It  was  frequently 
involved  in  the  wars  of  the  kings  of  France  with  the  kings  of  Eng- 
land and  the  dukes  of  Normandy,  and  also  in  the  civil  struggles  of 
later  date.  The  only  remains  of  its  fortifications  are  the  walls  of  the 
ancient  ch&tean,  which  prelected  the  town  on  the  side  next  the  river. 

On  leaving  the  station,  we  see  facing  us,  on  an  eminence,  the 
Church  ofSt.  MacloUy  with  a  handsome  flight  of  steps  in  front  of  it. 
At  the  top  of  the  steps  is  a  marble  statue,  by  Lemot,  of  Oeneral 
Leclere  (1772-1802),  brother-in-law  of  Napoleon  I.  and  a  native  of 
Pontoise.  The  church  is  a  Gothic  edifice  of  the  12th  cent.,  recon- 
structed in  the  15-1 6th  centuries.  The  most  striking  features  of 
the  exterior  are  the  tower,  terminating  in  a  lantern  in  the  Renais- 
sance style,  and  the  beautiful  Flamboyant  rose- window  in  the  W. 
facade.  The  Chapelle  de  la  Passion,  to  the  left  on  entering,  contains 
a  *Holy  Sepulchre,  in  the  style  of  the  Renaissance,  with  8  statues 
and  groups  of  the  Resurrection  and  the  Holy  Women.  The  Stained- 
glass  Windows  also  date  from  1545,  with  the  exception  of  those  ad- 
joining the  tomb,  which  are  modem.  Opposite  the  pulpit  is  a  De- 
scent from  the  Gross,  byJouvenet,  and  the  choir  contains  some  rather 
heavy  wood-carvings  of  the  Renaissance. 

In  the  Rue  Lemercier,  not  far  from  the  H6tel  de  Ville,  which 
is  on  the  side  next  the  valley  of  the  Oise,  is  a  Mus6e^  recently  estab- 
lished in  a  small  15th  cent,  mansion,  formerly  used  as  a  law-court. 

The  road  to  the  left,  at  the  end  of  the  square,  leads  to  the 
Promenade,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  mound  commanding  a  fine 
view.  — The  Church  of  Notre- Dame,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  town, 
dating  from  the  16th  cent.,  contains  the  tomb  of  St.  Gautier  (Wal- 
ter), a  curious  monument  of  1146,  with  a  statue  of  the  saint.  — 
Above  the  station  is  a  Stone  Bridge,  commanding  a  good  view  of 
the  town  and  connecting  it  with  St.  Ouen-l'Aumdne  (see  below). 
Between  the  two  bridges  is  a  large  Hospital,  the  chapel  of  which 
has  a  good  picture  by  Phil,  de  Ghampaigne  of  the  healing  of  the 
lame  man. 

From  Pontoise  to  Dieppe,  via  Oitort,  comp.  p.  396  and  see  Baedeker^ $ 
Northern  France. 

n.   From  Pontoise  to  Beaumont. 

12V2  M.  Railway  in  30-36  min.  (fares  2  fir.  25,  1  fr.  50  c,  1  fr.). 
The  train  recrosses  the  Oise  and  enters  (1/2  M.)  St  Ouen-VAumone. 
Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the  Chdteau  de  Maubuisson,  on  the  site 
of  the  notorious  Gistercian  abbey  of  that  name.   It  includes  a  huge 
barn  and  a  tower  of  the  13th  or  14th  ^ent.  (>\.  Qn^  wsm^-^  ^\.'C»cvfc 
park).   —   ii/4  M,  JEpluehes,   We  again  cto^ft^fe^'vs.^. — "^X-i?^- 
CAaponval.  —  d^/s  M.  Auvera,  a  piettWv  E\ta?L\.^^  n\>X^^^  ^"^"^^^^ 
interesting  church  ot  the  12-13tli  cent.  (mUAox  i^^\a^^^-    ^^"""^ 


346  19.  L»1SLE-ADAM. 

1  M.  to  the  right,  on  the  other  bank  of  the  rirer,  lies  Miry  (p.  348). 
—  6  M.  Valmondois^  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Paris  Tia  Ermont 
(see  p.  348).  —  Mtriel  and  the  Ahhayt  du  Val,  see  p.  348. 

A  branch -line  runs  hence  through  the  valley  of  the  Satuseron  to  (4  M.) 
Ne»les^  with  an  interesting  church  of  the  i2th  cent.,  and  to  (16  M.)  Marine*^ 
a  little  town  with  an  old  chateau,  about  3  M.  from  the  station  of  Ut' 
Marines^  on  the  line  from  Pontoise  (7  H.)  to  Dieppe. 

8  M.  L'Isle-Adaxn  {Ecu  de  France,  near  the  bridge),  a  pleas- 
ant little  town  of  3540inhab.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Oise,  which 
here  forms  two  islands.  The  station  is  at  Parmain,  on  the  right 
bank,  connected  with  the  town  by  two  stone  bridges.  L*Isle-Adam 
owes  its  name  to  the  larger  of  the  islets,  on  which  stood  a  ch&tean 
belonging  latterly  to  the  Prince  do  Oonti  (see  below).  The  fine 
avenue  to  the  left,  beyond  the  church  and  the  H6tel  de  Ville, 
ascends  to  a  wood  of  the  same  name. 

The  Church,  in  a  straight  line  with  the  station,  is  a  Renaissance 
edifice,  with  a  handsome  portal  of  1537,  lately  restored  and  flanked 
with  a  tower  of  the  same  date.  The  *Pulpit,  executed  by  a  German 
artist  in  1560,  is  richly  adorned  with  statuettes  and  inlaid  work. 
The  choir,  the  aisles,  and  the  new  Lady  Chapel  (to  the  right) 
contain  some  good  modern  stained  glass.  The  stalls,  dating  from 
the  16th  cent.,  have  curious  reliefs  on  their  misericords.  In  a  chapel 
to  the  left  is  an  altar-piece  in  carved  wood,  representing  the  Passion 
(15th  cent.).  An  adjoining  chapel,  opposite  the  Lady  Chapel,  con- 
tains the  remains  of  the  monument  of  Prince  de  Conti  (1717-76), 
destroyed,  like  his  chateau,  at  the  Revolution.  The  beautiful  figure 
of  a  weeping  woman  is  a  plaster  reproduction  of  one  by  Moitte.  — 
The  H6t€l  de  Ville y  alongside  of  the  church,  and  the  Clergy  HoxiaCf 
at  the  back  of  it,  are  handsome  modern  buildings  in  a  similar  style. 
The  small  Chdteau,  which  has  replaced  that  of  the  Prince  of  Conti, 
contains  some  interesting  paintings,  including  what  is  said  to  be  the 
original  of  the  small  Holy  Family  by  Raphael,  that  in  the  Louvre 
(p.  116;  No.  1499)  being  thus  a  copy. 

A  fountain  with  a  bust  by  Marqueste  has  been  placed  as  a  monument 
to  JtUes  Dupri  (1812-89),  the  landscape-painter,  in  front  of  the  house  for- 
merly occupied  by  him. 

The  Wood  of  V Isle- Adam,  covering  a  chain  of  hills  with  a  maximum 
height  of  620  ft.,  affords  numerous  pleasant  walks.  The  railway  iroin 
Beaumont  to  Ecouen  (see  p.  347)  skirts  its  other  side,  the  nearest  stations 
being  Presle$  (4  M.)  and  Montsoult  (6  M.). 

The  valley  now  expands  and  ceases  to  be  picturesque.  —  872  M. 
Jouy-le-Comte.  —  The  church  of  (10^2  M.)  Champagne  has  a  fine 
spire  of  the  13th  century. 

1272  M.   Beaumont  (H6tel  des  Quatre-FiU-Aymon,  facing  the 

bridge) J  a  small  town  with  3450  inhab. ,  picturesquely  situated, 

%  M.  from  the  railway,  on  a  height  oti  \Xi^  \ftlX  ^ivoik.  of  the  Olse. 

2'Jie  ^Church,  reached  by  a  lo?tv  Mg\i\.  ol  ?.\.fc^^^  \&  wv  \aJwst^^"««.% 

bailding  of  the  13th  cent.,  with  doTi\Ae  ».V%\^?.  ^xwm^^^^K^^^;^  %^- 

Series,  The  pillars  are  round,  like  t\ioaft  ol  l^^U^-^ws^^  ^x.^%A.%,«A 


19.  EOOUEN.  347 

have  fine  foliaged  capitals.  The  choir  is  much  smaller  than  the 
nare.    The  lateral  tower  terminates  in  the  Renaissance  style. 

Passing  the  church-tower,  following  the  streets  to  the  right, 
and  turning  again  to  the  right  at  the  Hdtel  de  Yille,  we  reach  the 
Place  du  Chdteau  or  Promenadej  adjoining  which  is  part  of  the  old 
wall  of  the  chateau,  with  round  towers  at  the  corners.  The  Promen- 
ade affords  an  extensive  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Oise. 

From  Beaumont  to  Cr«<I,  see  p.  377 ;  to  Hermes^  see  Bct$deker''s  Northern 
France. 

m.  From  Beaumont  to  Parii. 
1.   Vid  Montsoult, 

23  M.  Sailwat  in  '/i-lV*  hr.  (fares  i  fr.  15,  2  fr.  80,  1  fr.  80  c). 

This  is  part  of  the  direct  line  from  Paris  to  Beauvais  and  Amiens. 
The  train  crosses  the  Oise  and  ascends  the  picturesque  valley  of  one 
of  its  affluents.  —  2  M.  Nointel 

To  the  left  is  the  Forest  of  Oarnelle,  affording  numerous  pleasant  walks. 
The  Poteau  de  Camelle  (690  ft.),  its  highest  point,  is  ahout  IV4  M.  from 
Nointel  and  I'/i  M.  from  Presles  (see  below).  The  5th  avenue  to  the  right  in 
coming  from  Nointel  (the  third  from  Presles)  leads  to  the  S.E,  to  (3/4  M.) 
the  Poteau  de  8t.  Ifartin  (ahout  >/4  M.  from  the  vUlage  of  that  name;  see 
below).  About  1  M.  to  Ihe  S.W.  is  the  Pierre  Turquaiee  or  Turquoiee,  a 
kind  of  leafy  arbour,  38  ft.  long  and  10  ft.  wide  (to  the  left;  sign-post). 
About  Vs  ^'  lower  down  is  a  wide  alley  leading  to  the  right  to  (3/4  M.) 
the  station  of  Presles.  To  reach  the  (I1/2  M.)  Chateau  de  Franconville  (see 
below)  from  the  Pierre  Turquaise,  we  retrace  our  steps  to  (7  min.)  a 
footpath  leading  to  the  right  to  (7  min.;  8ign*post)  the  plain  of  St.  Martin. 

31/4  M.  Presles  (H6t.  Paillard).  To  the  left  is  seen  the  magnif- 
icent *  Chdteau  of  Ftanconvillesous-Bois,  rebuilt  in  1877  by  the 
Due  de  Massa.  The  nearest  station  to  it  is  (1  M.)  Belloy,  on  the  Lu- 
zarches  line  (see  below).  To  the  right  is  the  wood  of  Lisle-Adam 
(p.  346).  —  7^2  M.  Montsoult,  the  station  for  the  two  villages  of 
Montsoult  and  Maf fliers,  situated  about  2/3  M.  to  the  W.  and  to  the 
N.W.,  at  the  beginning  of  the  wood  of  L'Isle-Adam.  There  is  also 
an  interesting  chateau  at  Montsoult,  commanding  a  fine  view. 

FsoM  HoNTsoDLT  TO  LuzABCHss ,  7  M. ,  railway  in  25  min.  (fares 
Ifr.  36,  90.  60 c).  —  2VaM.  Bellop-St- Martin.  Belloy,  to  the  right, 
contains  an  interesting  church  dating  from  the  15th  century.  St.  Martin-du- 
Tertre,  to  the  left,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  an  eminence  on  the  S.E. 
border  of  the  forest  of  Camelle  (see  above).  To  the  left  is  the  Chdteau  de 
Franconville^  mentioned  above.  —  The  train  now  enters  a  cutting,  beyond 
which  we  have  a  fine  *View  to  the  left  of  the  valley  of  the  Oise.  —  About 
IV2  H.  to  the  N.  of  (4V2  M.)  Viarmes  (Gheval  Blanc)  are  the  remains  of  the 
Ahhey  of  Royaumont,  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  now  occupied  as  a  convent, 
and  not  open  to  visitors.  —  7  H.  Luzarches  (Edtel  St.  Damien).,  a  small 
town  in  a  pleasant  situation.  A  little  to  the  N.E.  is  the  forest  of  Coye 
which  extends  to  the  forest  of  Chantilly  (p.  376).  The  road  passing  the 
station  leads  through  the  town  and  then  ascends  to  the  S.  through  a  wood, 
immediately  beyond  which  is  the  (IV4  M.)  Chdteau  of  Champldtreux^  built 
in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries. 

91/2  M.  Bouffemont.  —  10  M.  Domont,  ow  W^  ^.  Aq^^  ^^'vi^^^ 
forest  of  Montmorency,  is  commanded  Y)^  a  ioit, 

f2M.  Sconen-Ezanville.  The  Chateau  oilLciOweiiv,  x.^^'^^'^^'^'^^'^ 
s  handsome  edifice  of  the  16th  cent.,  \>ui\t  ^>^  J^^a.^i^vs^^^'^^'^'^ 


348  19.  ST.  LEU. 

Constable  Anne  de  Montmorency,  like  the  oldest  part  of  the  chateau 
at  Chantilly  (p.  370).  It  is  now  used  as  a  school  for  daughters  of 
members  of  the  Legion  of  Honour  of  lower  rank  than  are  provided  for 
at  St.  Denis  (p.  338).  Visitors  are  not  admitted.  The  park  and  a  fort 
occupy  the  top  of  the  hill  on  which  the  town  is  situated.  The  road  on 
the  other  side,  commanding  a  fine  view  in  the  direction  of  Paris,  de- 
scends to  Villiers-le-Bel  (p.  368)  and  (2  M.)  Sarcelles. 

131/2  M.  SarceUes-St-Brice.  —  14  M.  Oroslay,  —  Ibi/a  M. 
Deuil-Montmagny.  —  At  (17  M.)  Epinayj  we  join  the  Pontoise 
line  to  -St.  Denis  and  Paris  (see  p.  339). 

Q.   Vid  Valmondois  and  Ermont, 

25  M.  Railway  in  V/A-i^i  hr.  (same  fares). 

From  Beaumont  to  (61/2  M.)  Valmondois j  see  p.  346.  Beyond  Val- 
mondois the  train  quits  the  Pontoise  line  and  crosses  the  Oise.  To 
the  left  a  view  of  the  park  of  the  chateau  of  Stors.  —  71/2  M.  Miriel, 

The  ruined  Abbaye  du  Yal,  1  H.  to  the  E.,  presents  various  features 
of  interest  to  archeeologists  and  others.  It  is  reached  by  the  road  which 
ascends  the  Oise,  traversing  the  village,  and  then  skirting  the  small  railway 
used  to  transport  the  stones  from  the  quarries  higher  up  to  the  left.  We 
then  turn  to  the  left,  and  >/4  M.  farther  on  follow  the  road  leading  to  the 
left  across  the  fields.  At  the  lowest  point  we  turn  to  the  right,  through  an 
arched  gate,  and  reach  the  abbey  just  beyond  a  small  house,  where  per- 
mission to  view  the  interior  of  the  ruin  is  obtained.  The  abbey,  like  many 
others,  was  suppressed  in  1791,  and  was  afterwards  converted  into  a  maira- 
factory.  The  chief  remains  consist  of  an  imposing  edifice  of  the  12th  cent., 
successfully  restored,  containing  the  refectory  and  chapter-house  on  the 
groundfloor  and  the  dormitory  above,  the  last  a  large  vaulted  apartment, 
divided  into  two  by  a  row  of  fine  columns.  At  one  side  is  an  octagonal 
turret,  in  front  of  which  is  one  of  the  walks  of  the  old  cloisters.  On  the 
elevated  ground  opposite  are  the  remains  of  two  vaulted  structures,  the 
larger  by  the  side  of  the  road.  Beyond  the  fields  and  hills  (now  stripped 
bare)  of  the  abbey  extends  the  wood  of  L'Isle-Adam  (p.  846). 

9Y2  M!.  MSry,  "with  a  splendid  view;  the  village  lies  72  M.  "be- 
low the  station.  The  extensive  market-gardens  here  are  enriched 
by  the  sewage  of  Paris.  —  10  M.  SognoUes;  10^2  M.  Fripillon; 
11  M.  Bessancourt.  —  12^/2  M.  Tavernyj  to  the  left,  at  the  foot  and 
on  the  slope  of  a  hill  joining  the  forest  of  Montmorency  and  com- 
manding a  fine  view.  The  Churchy  halfway  up  the  hill,  dates  from 
the  13th  and  15th  cent,  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  envixons 
of  Paris.  Above  the  S.  portal  is  a  fine  rose-window  in  the  Flamboyant 
style.  The  interior  contains  a  handsome  stone  altar  in  the  style  of 
the  Renaissance  and  wood-carvings  of  the  same  period  (by  the  8. 
door),  representing  the  martyrdom  of  St.  Bartholomew.  —  13  M. 
Vaucelles. 

^3^2  M.  St,  Leu.  The  chateau  of  St.  Leu,  once  belonging  to  Lonis 

Bonaparte,  King  of  Holland,  aw^  «ltei"^w^^  ^i^^\x^\^i  by  the  last 

Prince  of  Cond4  (d.  1830),  lias  ^Uv^^ew^^N  Vt%^\\»\ATssKeMA.Vi 

a  simple  monument  to  tlie  pxiivco.   "^V©  mo^^^w  CKwfiV,  ^^\m- 

Proved    by  Napoleon   HI.,    coutaius  t\xe  Vom>a^  qI  ^'«\^^^t«w^«Xj^ 


20.  FONTENAY-ADX  ROSES.  349 

(d.  1783),  father  of  Napoleon  I.,  Louis  Bonaparte  (d.  1846),  and 
two  sons  of  the  last.  The  monument  of  Louis  is  in  the  apse,  be- 
hind a  railing. 

141/4  M.  Oros'Noyer,  —  15  M.  Ermont-HaUe.  —  15V2  M.  Er- 
mont.   From  Enuont  to  Paris,  see  pp.  342-333. 

20.  SceanZy  Chevrensey  Montlhiryy  etc. 

The  foUowing  excursions  are  recommended  in  fayourable  weather  to 
all  lovers  of  nature,  especially  to  those  who  are  good  walkers.  At  least  an 
afternoon  should  be  devoted  to  a  visit  to  Sceaux  and  Robinson  (see  below). 

I.  From  Paris  to  Sooaux. 

a.    By  Tramway. 

The  tramway-cars  start  at  present  from  the  Place  St,  Oermain-des-Pris 
(p.  262),  but  will  eventually  start  from  the  Place  dee  Victoiree  (p.  192),  either 
of  which  is  easily  reached  with  ^correspondance^  from  any  part  of  Paris 
(comp.  the  Appz.).  The  terminus  is  at  Fontetwy-aux- Roses  (see  below).  The 
distance  is  oVzM.,  traversed  in  1  hr.  5  min.;  fares  60  or  36  c.  On  Sun. 
and  holidays  the  cars  are  often  overcrowded.  From  the  terminus  we  have 
fully  1  M.  to  walk  to  Sceaux  by  a  pleasant  road.  A  tramway  is  planned 
from  the  Champ-de-Mars  to  Chdtenay  via  Montrouge  (p.  289),  Bagneuz  (see 
below),  Fontenay-aux-Boses,  and  Sceaux. 

The  tramway  follows  the  wide  Rue  de  Rennes  to  the  Gare  Mont- 
pamasse  (p.  288).  It  then  turns  to  the  left  into  the  Boul.  Mont- 
parnasse  and  immediately  afterwards  to  the  right  into  the  Boul. 
Raspail,  which  skirts  the  Cemetery  of  Montpamasse.  Beyond  the 
Place  Denfert-Roohereau  (p.  288),  we  traverse  the  Avenue  d'OrMans 
to  the  church  of  St.  Pierre -de -Montrouge  (p.  289),  and  then  the 
Avenue  de  Gh&tillon,  by  which  we  quit  Paris.  —  Outside  the  gate 
lies  Malakoff,  a  village  with  11,000  inhabitants. 

CAdttUon(3100inhab.)  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  plateau,  which  com- 
mands a  good  view  of  Paris.  A  little  to  the  W.  is  Glamart  (p.  296). 

About  V4  M.  to  the  E.  of  ChaUllon  lies  Bagneuz  (1750  inhab.),  with 
numerous  villas  and  an  interesting  church,  dating  in  part  from  the  13th 
century.  Ghltillon  and  Bagneux  were  both  included  in  the  German  lines  in 
1870-71.  On  13th  Oct.,  1870,  the  French  made  a  vigorous  attack  on  the 
German  troops  posted  here,  and  after  a  sharp  contest  succeeded  in  taking 
possession  of  Bagneux,  which,  however,  they  evacuated  on  the  same  evening. 
Monuments  in  meniory  of  those  who  fell  on  this  occasion  have  been  erected 
both  at  Bagneux  and  at  Ch&tillon.  —  Steam-tramway,  see  p.  355. 

Fontenay-aux-Boses  (5350  inhab.),  1  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Chatil- 
lon,  has  a  station  on  the  railway  to  Sceaux,  and  is  the  terminus  of 
the  tramway-line.  It  is  surrounded  with  fields  of  strawberries  and 
violets,  in  both  of  which  it  carries  on  a  brisk  trade.  A  fine  view  of 
Paris  is  enjoyed  from  the  N.  side  of  the  large  Place  de  la  Mairie 
where  the  car  stops. 

To  reach  the  railway-station  (p.  350)  we  deiS^i«w^^i^s^fe^^^.^'^^^^- 
cicaut  farther  on.    To  the  right,  as  we  descieivdk.  >i\i^  ^\.\fefe\.^  N-"^  ^^^ 
former  Maison  Boucicaut,  a  handsome  modexiv  eUut^xv^^S  ^^  ^^^^"^ 
is  S/e.  Barbe^des'Champs,  a  small  depeiAdeuc^  o^  VXv^  c^^Wfc?.'^  q^I^Xvjw 


350  20.  AROUEIL. 

name  in  Paris.  Farther  on,  beyond  a  Normal  School  for  female 
teachers,  the  road  forks.  The  right  branch  leads  to  (1  M.)  Sceanx 
(p.  351)  via  the  (V2  M.)  station  of  Fontenay  (p.  349);  the  left 
to  (IV2  M.)  Bourg-la-Reine  (p.  361). 

The  direct  route  to  (I74  M.)  Robinson  (p.  351)  diverges  to  the 
right  from  the  road  from  Ghatillon,  before  the  Place  in  which  the 
tramway-offlce  is  situated.  [Or  we  may  follow  the  narrow  gtreet 
descending  opposite  the  tramway-office,  and  turn  to  the  right  at  the 
end.]  At  the  first  fork  we  may  either  take  the  Rue  de  Ch&tenay  to 
the  left,  which  joins  the  road  near  the  station  of  Sceaux-Robinson 
(p.  351),  or  the  Rue  du  Plessis-Piquet  to  the  right,  whence  another 
road,  diverging  to  the  left,  leads  direct  to  Robinson. 

The  little  village  of  Le  Pleuii- Piquet,  prettily  situated  on  the  side  of 
a  hill  not  far  from  the  above-mentioned  fork,  is  separated  from  the  Bois 
de  Meudon  by  the  small  plain  through  which  runs  the  road  to  Chfttillon. 

b.    By  Bail-way. 

71/2  M.  Liffne  de  Seeaux  et  lAmoure.  The  station  is  near  the  Luxem- 
bourg, Boulevard  St.  Michel  69,  at  the  comer  of  the  Bue  Gay-Lussac 
(PI.  B,  19;  V).  Luggage,  however,  is  not  registered  here  but  mast  be 
taken  to  the  old  station  in  the  Place  Denfert-Bochereau.  Trains  leave 
Paris  every  V2  hr.    Fares  1  ft.  35,  90,  60  c. ;  return-tickets  2  fir.,  1  fr.  45,  96  c. 

The  line,  which  will  eventually  begin  nearer  the  quays,  is 
carried  by  a  tunnel  under  the  Boul.  St.  Michel  to  the  station  of  Port- 
Royal^  situated  at  the  Carrefour  de  VObservatoire  (p.  2S5)  but  named 
after  the  adjoining  boulevard.  Thence  another  tunnel  takes  it 
beneath  the  Avenue  de  TObservatoire  and  the  Rue  and  Place  Den- 
fert-Rochereau  (p.  288)  to  the  station  of  ParU-Dcnfertj  the  former 
Oare  de  Seeaux  (PI.  Q,  20).  The  railway  then  crosses  several  via- 
ducts and  traverses  the  park  of  Montsouris  (p.  290).  1^/4  M.  Seeaux- 
Ceinture^  the  junction  for  the  Ohemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture  (see  Appx.). 
To  the  left,  outside  the  fortifications,  are  Fort  BieHre  and  the  large 
lunatic  asylum  and  hospice  of  that  name.  Numerous  quarries  and 
market-gardens  on  both  sides.  The  small  pyramidal  wooden  struc- 
tures cover  the  mouths  of  deserted  quarries,  in  which  mushrooms 
are  now  cultivated.  —  2^/2  M.  Qentilly,  an  old  village  to  the  left 
(pop.  6150),  on  the  tramway  from  Boulogne  to  Vincennes  (p.  294), 
—  3  M.  Laplact,  To  the  left  is  the  Aqueduct  of  Aroueil,  beneath 
the  W.  end  of  which  our  line  passes. 

31/2  M.  Arcueil,  a  village  (7000  inhab.)  in  the  valley  of  the 
Bilvre,  with  a'chuxch  of  the  13-15th  centuries.  The  EeoU  Albert^le^ 
Grand,  in  the  Grande-Rue,  an  ecclesiastical  establishment,  was 
managed  in  1870-71  by  Dominican  monks,  several  of  whom  were 
massacred  by  the  Communards.  It  contains  a  mortuary  chapel,  with 
a  statue  of  P^re  Captler,  by  BoTinam^MX.  —  Steam-tramway  from 
^aris  to  Arpajon,  see  p.  366. 

To  the  left,    visible  both  on  reachVafe  aaa.  ^xiVXXvti^  ^^iA  %^^^^ssft.^  V*  >fi«i^ 

the  other,  with  a  total  height  of  13511.    T:\xe  ivtj.tiife  oI\\v^n\\\^M?^\%^«Vi^ 


20.  SOEAUX.  351 

from  an  ancient  aqueduct  (ArcuH)  constructed  here  by  the  BomanB.  on  the 
site  of  which  Salomon  Debrosse  (1613-24)  built  another  aqueduct,  440  yds. 
long,  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  water  from  the  village  of  Rungis  to  the 
garden  of  the  Luxembourg.  Ui  1868-72  a  second  aqueduct  was  placed  on 
the  top  of  this,  and,  though  the  masonry  is  not  so  good  as  that  of  Debrosse, 
it  is  still  a  notable  piece  of  engineering.  —  A  road  to  the  left  of  the  Aque- 
duct ascends  to  VilUjuif  (p.  857). 

Beyond  Arcueil  the  fortified  heights  of  VilUJuif  (p.  367 ;  Redoute 
des  Haute8'Bf%iyhre8')  come  into  sight.  Farther  on  Bagnenx  (p.  349), 
Fontenay-aux-Roses  (p.  349),  and  the  fort  of  Ch&tillon  (p.  349) 
are  seen  to  the  right.  To  the  left  are  UHay  and  CJitviUy^  also  scenes 
of  contests  during  the  siege  of  Paris. 

572  ^-  Bourg-la-Beiue  {BetUmrant-Cafi  Perdereaux ,  in  the 
Place),  a  modern  yillage  with  3650  inhab.,  is  a  favonrite  summer 
residence.  In  the  Place  Gondorcet,  about  3  min.  from  the  station, 
is  a  marble  bust,  by  Trupheme,  of  Condorcet,  who  died  here  in  1794. 
~  Steam-tramway  to  Paris,  see  p.  355. 

The  Sceaux  line  here  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  line  to 
Limours  (p.  352).  To  the  left  is  the  Lyctfe  Lakanal,  to  the  right 
Fontenay-aux-Roses  and  the  heights  of  GhatlUon,  while  behind,  to 
the  right,  appear  the  Aqueduct  of  Arcueil  and  the  heights  of  Villejuif. 

6Y4  M.  Seeaitx  (see  below).  The  railway  now  describes  a  curve 
to  the  N.,  passing  (68/4  M.)  Fontenay-aux^Bosea  (p.  349).  —  71/2  M. 
Sceaux-Rohinson^  a  station  between  the  town  of  Sceaux  and  Robin- 
son (see  below). 

Soeaux  {H6tel  de  VEtoile-du-Nord;  Restaurant  du  Pare,  near 
the  church),  a  small  town  with  4000  inhab.,  pleasantly  situated 
upon  a  hill  amid  charming  scenery.  The  CMteau  of  Sceaux,  built 
by  Colbert ,  afterwards  became  the  property  of  the  Due  du  Maine, 
son  of  Louis  XIV.  and  Mme.  de  Montespau.  During  the  first  halt' 
of  the  18th  cent.  It  was  celebrated  for  the  brilliant  fetes  given  here 
by  the  Duchesse  du  Maine  to  the  little  court  of  wits  and  *grands  seig- 
neurs' she  assembled  around  her.  The  chateau  was  destroyed  at  the 
Revolution.  A  small  piece  of  the  Park  has  been  preserved  and  is 
open  to  the  public.  It  is  reached  from  the  station  of  Sceaux  by  the 
road  straight  in  front  for  a  short  distance,  then  to  the  right  and  by 
the  Rue  Penthl^vre,  the  first  turning  to  the  left ;  from  the  station 
of  Sceaux-Robinson,  at  the  "W.  end  of  the  town,  we  turn  to  the  left 
and  pass  through  the  town.  The  Church,  near  the  park,  contains  a 
Baptism  of  Christ,  by  Tuby.  Beside  it  are  monuments  to  Florian 
(1765-94),  the  poet  and  fabulist,  who  is  buried  in  the  cemetery  of 
Sceaux,  to  the  Provencal  poet  Aubanel  (1828-86),*  and  to  the  author 
Paul  Ar^ne  (1843-96).  About  V4  l*r.  farther  on  is  the  Lycie  Lakanal, 
a  handsome  building  in  a  pretty  part  of  the  park,  not  far  from  Bourg- 
la-Reine  (see  above). 

Bobinson  {Cafls-Restaurarhts  in  the  chestTvul-^xoN^  «x\^  ^"V"  ^^^^• 
station,  d4J.  2%  D,  3  frj,  about  1/4  M.  to  \\i^  ^  .  ^Ys.^\^  ^'^  ^^^^ 
station  of  Sceau  J -Robinson,  charmiugVy   aituaXe;^  ^t.  >iX^fe  ^^^^  ^^  '*^, 
wooded  hill,  is  one  of  thepleasantest  spots  neax  ^<j.fe«w"x.  YX.^^^^'^^^'^ 


352  20.  BifiVRES. 

namerous  gaiden-caf^,  with  platforms  placed  amid  the  branches  of 
the  large  chestnut-trees,  and  in  fine  weather  it  is  thronged  with 
pleasure-seekers.  Horses  and  asses  may  be  hired  at  Robinson  (horses 
2-3  fr.  per  hr.,  asses  1-1 V2  fr.). 

On  a  height  a  little  beyond  Robinson  is  a  house  with  a  tower 
from  in  front  of  which  we  command  an  admiral^e  view  of  the  yalley 
of  the  Bievre. 

From  Robinson  to  ths  Boib  de  VebriArbs  is  a  favourite  excursion. 
Riders  usually  make  it  by  the  road  passing  the  above-mentioned  house 
with  the  tower.  The  first  part  of  the  route  is,  however,  monotonous  and 
devoid  of  shade,  and  the  route  by  the  lower  road  is  preferable  for  pedes- 
trians. The  lower  road  leads  from  Robinson  towards  the  8.  and  passes 
0/2  H.)  AiUnaVy  where  Chateaubriand  had  a  country-house,  and  (IVt  M.) 
ChdtBnay  (1560  inhab.),  which  some  authorities  name  as  the  birthplace  of 
Voltaire.  Tramway  to  Paris,  see  p.  349.  Just  beyond  the  latter  village 
we  reach  the  highroad  from  Versailles  to  Ghoisy-le-Roi,  which  descends 
to  the  left  to  the  railway  station  of  (IV4  M.)  Bemy  (see  below)  and  ascends 
to  the  right  to  the  Bois  de  Verri^res.  The  Boia  de  Verrieres  covers  a  small 
plateau  which  commands  the  valley  of  the  Bi6vre  on  the  E.  and  8.  Its 
main  axis,  from  Ghatenay  to  Bievre,  is  not  above  2Va  M.  long.  Various 
points  in  it  afford  charming  views  of  the  valley.  Equestrians  generally 
proceed  to  MaMbry  (inn),  about  l>/4  M.  from  Ch&tenay,  and  thence  to  the 
so-called  ^ObdUk\  a  circular  clearing  in  the  wood,  where  the  chief  foreat- 
paths  converge.  Walkers  reach  this  point  directly  by  ascending  from 
Ghatenay  along  the  road  to  Igny  and  then  turning  to  the  left.  Proceeding 
in  the  same  direction  beyond  the  clearing,  we  reach  the  margin  of  the 
plateau,  where  it  overlooks  the  most  attractive  part  of  the  valley.  On  the 
other  side  we  obtain  a  view  of  a  pretty  little  side-valley,  with  the  ruins 
of  the  old  Abbaye  aux  Boit.  To  the  right  of  the  above-mentioned  road  to 
Igny  lies  the  village  of  BUvrety  where  we  descend  into  the  valley  (see  below). 

n.  From  Paris  to  the  Valley  of  Chevreuie. 
Valley  of  the  Bidvre.    Limours. 

Railway  from  Paris  to  St.  Remy-lU-Chevretue,  20»/»  M.,  in  50-75  min. 
(fares  3  fr.  70,  2  fr.  50,  1  fr.  65  c.j  return-tickets  5  fr.,  4  fr.,  2  fr.  00  c).  — 
Ctievretue  is  about  IV2  M.  from  the  station,  and  2V3  M.  farther  on  is  Dam- 
pierre,  to  both  of  which  places  public  conveyances  ply  (see  below).  Let 
Vaux-de-Cemay  lies  about  3  M.  from  Dampierre.  ^Gorrespondance^  for 
Ghevreuse  30  c,  for  Dampierre,  70  c.  —  8team-tramway  from  Paris  to  An- 
tony, see  p.  365. 

Those  who  do  not  wish  to  walk  far  and  who  do  not  object  to  public  con- 
veyances may  make  this  excursion  as  follows .  leave  Paris  about  10  a.m., 
and  on  arriving  at  St.  Remy  take  the  omnibus  to  Chwreuse;  after  visiting 
the  ruined  ch&teau,  take  the  railway-omnibus,  which  starts  about  1.80  p.m., 
quit  the  vehicle  at  Dampierre,  walk  thence  to  (3  H.)  Lei  Vaux-de-Cemay^ 
and  return  in  time  to  catch  the  omnibus  starting  from  Dampierre  at  8  p.m. 
for  St.  Remy,  in  connection  with  the  last  train  to  Paris.  Visit  to  the 
chateau  at  Dampierre,  see  p.  354.  —  Hurried  visitors  may  regain  Paris  at 
an  earlier  hour  by  taking  the  omnibus  about  5  p.m.  from  Cemay  to  the 
station  of  Boullay-les-Troux  (fare  50  c. ;  p.  353).  Another  omnibus  leaves 
Dampierre  about  4.30  p.m.  fof  Laverri^re,  a  station  on  the  line  from  Paris 
to  Chartres. 

From  Paris  to  (5^/2 M.)  Bourg-la-Reint,  see  pp.  350,351.  Short 

tunnel.  To  the  left  are  the  PrUorw of  Frewvti^.^^^V  —  7 M.  Bemy; 

7'/2  M.  Antony  (2500  inliab.^,  i^ieUW^  %\\;vi%.\.^^.  1^  ^^\^V\\^  % 

branch  of  the  Ohemiu  de  ¥ei  Ae  Qtiwv^^  C»e\xv\.\tt^\  \ft  VXa\\^\^^ 

obtain  a  view  of  the  Bois  deNeiii^T^ft.  —  ^M^^-  l\.m^V^%V»aJ«^ 


20.   PALAISBAU.  353 

ou  a  hill  facing  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Bievre,  of  which 
it  commands  a  fine  view.  —  10*/2  M.  Masty-Chrande-Ceifiture, 

Fboic  Kasst-Gbavdb-Okihtitbs  to  VxBaAiLLXS,  9i^M.,  in  90-86  min. 
(fares  1  fr.  70, 1  fir.  16,  76  c).  —  This  section  of  the  Ligne  de  Grande-Ceintnre 
traverses  the  prettiest  part  of  the  Yallbt  or  thx  Biftv&s,  with  its  verdant 
meadows  and  luxuriant  woods.  The  valley  is  attractive  to  pedestrians 
except  on  the  side  next  the  Bois  de  Verrieres  (to  the  right),  where  the 
roads  are  frequently  flanked  by  high  walls.  —  I'/i  M.  Ignf,  to  the  left,  with 
the  large  Ecole  St.  Charkt^  managed  by  monks.  —  3  M .  Biivreg  (Chariot  d'Or), 
to  the  right,  is  beantiftiUy  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  plateau  to  the  N.W. 
of  the  plateau  of  Verrieres.  A  road  between  these  plateaux  ascends  to 
(IV4  M.)  Le  FMU-BMtre,  on  the  road  from  Versailles  to  Ghoisy,  not  far  from 
the  Bois  de  Meudon  (p.  299).  Among  the  fortified  hills  to  the  left  of  the 
valley  lie  the  Etanff  de  Saday^  the  Etang  du  Trou-BaU^  and  other  ponds 
which  furnish  the  water  for  the  fountains  at  Versailles.  —  4i/s  H.  Van- 
hoyen;  6V3  M.  Jov^-en-Joitu.  Farther  on  the  train  turns  to  the  right  and 
ascends  by  a  lofty  viaduct.  To  the  left  is  the  Aqueduct  of  Buc^  630  yds. 
long  and  70  ft.  high,  built  in  1686  to  convey  water  to  Versailles  from  the 
ponds  between  the  valleys  of  the  Bievre  and  the  Yyette.  Soon  after  our 
line  joins  the  Ugne  de  Bretagne.  —  9V3  M.  VertaUkt^  Gare  des  Chantiers 
(p.  308). 

Fbom  Hasst-Gbandb-Geintcbx  to  Valenton,  liVa  M.  This  somewhat 
uninteresting  section  of  the  Ligne  de  Grande-Ceinture  has  stations  at  Wiuou* 
(p.  866),  RungU  (p.  361),  Or  If,  and  ViUenwve-U-Boij  beyond  which  it  crosses 
the  Ligne  d'Orl^ans,  the  Seine,  and  the  Ligne  de  Lyon.  VaUnton  is  a  junction 
near  the  last-named  line,  at  which  this  section  of  the  Ligne  de  Grande- 
Ceinture  joins  that  from  Champigny  (p.  307)  and  Sucy-Boxmeuil  (p.  307; 
2>/3  M.)  to  Villeneuve-8t-Georges,  which  is  situated  2  M.  to  the  S.  (see  p.  369). 

Fbom  Masst-Gbabox-Geintube  to  Juvist,  9  M.,  railway  in  i/a-'/ahr. 
(fares  1  fr.  70, 1  fr.  15,  75  c).  —  2  M.  Champlan.  —  3  M.  Longjumeau  (p.  356). 

—  31/2  M.  (7W«y-jr«or<f»(p.  8661;  6  M.  Gravigny;  6  M.  Jttii-Vaux.  —  V/2  M. 
Savigny-iur-Orgt  (p.  858).  —  9  M .  JuvUy  (p.  358)  is  also  a  station  on  the 
Ligne  de  Grande-Ceinture,  which  runs  hence  to  (4  M.)  Villeneuve-St-Georffcs 
I  p.  359). 

11  M.  Palaiseau  (Ecu  de  France,  Grand'  Rue  148),  an  ancient 
place  which  owes  its  name  to  a  royal  palace  (^palatiolum*),  now 
destroyed.  In  the  Place  de  la  Mairie  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Joseph 
Bara^  a  boy- volunteer  killed  by  the  Vend^ens  in  1793.  The  ChurcH, 
behind  the  Mairie,  dates  from  the  12-13th  centuries. 

Beyond  a  cutting  Palaiseau  and  Massy  are  seen  on  the  left.  The 
train  now  enters  the  pretty  VdUey  of  the  Tvette,  which  is  flanked  by 
wooded  hills,  and  stops  at  Le  Rocker,  station  for  Villehon,  to  the  E. 

—  13  M.  Lozhre.  We  cross  the  Yvette  to  Le  QuichtU  —  15  M. 
Onay^  a  large  village  to  the  left.  —  I5V2  M.  Bura.  —  171/2  M. 
Qif,  —  Then  to  the  right,  before  the  next  station,  the  ruins  of 
Chevreuse  chUteau  become  visible.  —  2072  M.  8t.  Bemy-Us-Chev- 
reuse,  the  station  for  Chevreuse,  Dampierre,  and  Vaux-de-Cernay. 

The  railway,  turning  to  the  8.,  now  quits  the  valley  of  the  Yvette  and 
ascends  another  picturesque  vale  to  (3  H.)  BouUay-let-  Troux,  whence  an 
omnibus  plies  to  (4  M.)  Cemay-la-Ville  (p.  355).  The  terminus  is  reached 
at  (21/3  M.  farther  on)  Limours,  a  place  of  little  importance. 

The  road,  passing  through  the  village  of  St.  "EL^isi^ .,  «5j>^'?bfc'3.  vXs^i. 
Yvette  and  tuma  to  the  left.    A  shoitei  andk.  "5\e^%.'aX.«t.  \<i^"^^i^ 
leads  along  the  TailwAy-Jine  to  the  left,  paaaea  t\i«^  CMteau  d.t.  Ciowt- 
3e^/n,  and  soon  cornea  in  sight  of  the  iuii\«. 

Basdhmkb.   Paris.    Utb  Edit.  ^*^ 


354  20.   DAMPIEBBE. 

Cheyreuse  (Hdtel  du  Orand^Courriefy  Rue  de  la  Mairie  23),  a 
small  and  pooily-bnilt  place,  is  the  capital  of  a  barony,  afterwards 
a  duchy,  yarious  holders  of  which  have  distingnished  tiiiemselYes  as 
soldiers,  courtiers,  or  scholars. 

The  Ruined  Chdteau  is  quite  unimportant  in  Itself,  hnt  it  lends 
picturesqueness  to  the  distant  views  of  the  town  and  valley,  while 
its  terrace  commands  a  fine  survey  in  the  direction  of  Dampierre. 
The  ruins  occupy  the  extremity  of  a  small  plateau,  260  ft.  above 
the  town,  whence  they  are  reached  by  a  fatiguing,  sandy  path.  They 
consist  mainly  of  a  massive  donjon  of  unhewn  limestone  and  two 
towers  of  hewn  stone,  now  covered  with  ivy.  The  smaller  tower  is 
not  seen  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  or  from  the  terrace.  The  interior 
is  uninteresting. 

The  Churchy  built,  like  many  of  the  edifices  of  the  district,  of 
rough  limestone,  has  a  tasteful  Interior,  with  some  fair  mural 
paintings  by  M.  de  Courbetin.  Opposite  the  S.  portal  is  an  ogiyal 
Romanesque  doorway  and  a  few  other  remains  of  a  Ptiory,  now 
used  as  a  storehouse. 

The  road  from  Ghevreuse  to  Dampierre,  though  picturesque,  is 
almost  entirely  destitute  of  shade.  On  the  right  rise  wooded  hills, 
and  on  the  heights  to  the  left  is  the  handsome  modern  ChdUau  de 
BevilUra,  The  Chdteau  de  Mauvilrey  near  the  left  side  of  the  road 
farther  on,  dates  from  the  18th  century.  We  now  turn  to  the  right, 
skirt  the  long  wall  concealing  the  chateau  of  Becquencourt,  and, 
beyond  a  mill  on  the  Yvette,  reach  the  village  of  Dampierre. 

Dampierre  (^Hdiel- Restaurant  8t  Pierre ;  omnibus,  see  p.  352)  is 
noted  for  its  magniflcent  *ChdteaUy  belonging  to  the  ducal  family  of 
Luynes,  which  has  obtained  an  honourable  distinction  from  the  rich 
archaeological  collection  now  in  the  Bibliothdque  Nationale  at  Paris 
(p.  191).  The  chateau,  built  for  the  most  part  in  the  17th  cent,  by 
J.  H.  Mansart  and  restored  in  1840  by  Duban,  is  a  huge  structure  of 
brick  and  stone,  rising  between  a  fine  *cour  d*honneur*  and  an  ex- 
tensive park  in  a  small  valley,  the  confining  hills  of  which  limit  the 
view  in  every  direction.  Admission  to  the  chateau  and  park  may 
be  obtained  on  Fridays,  from  1  to  5  o'clock,  on  written  application 
to  the  Duchesse  de  Luynes,  who  usually  spends  the  summer  at  the 
chateau  (address  before  July,  51  Cit^  de  Yarenne,  Paris).  Among 
the  art-treasures  retained  in  the  chateau  are  an  ivory,  gold,  and  all* 
ver  statue  of  Athene  by  Simart  (a  quarter-size  reproduction  of  the 
colossal  chryselephantine  statue  of  Athene  in  the  Parthenon),  the 
celebrated  Sleeping  Pen.elope  by  Gavelier,  and  a  silver  statue  of 
Louis  XIII.  by  Rude.  —  The  neighbouring  Church  contains  the 
burial  vault  of  the  Dues  de  Luynes,  in  a  closed  chapel  to  the  left 
of  the  cboir. 

The  route  to  Lea  Yaux-de-Cwivvj^  X^^^tl^  V\i^  €s&!««sv\ft.  ^^ 
direction  of  the  church,  and  ipasf^iii^  to  ^^^  ^^^'^  ^^  ^«^^^^  ^^^^^^ 
obiteau,  ascends  the  YaWey  o?  t\i©?,UftWJv\^Vo^^^^^««^'^^^^' 


20.  OERNAT-LA-VILLE.  355 

In  less  than  1^4  M.  we  diverge  from  the  road,  and  continuing  in  a 
straight  direction,  pass  the  hamlet  of  Oames,  At  the  (72  ^^0  Moulin 
dts  Boeher9  we  reach  another  carriage-road,  which  leads  first  to  the 
left,  then  to  the  right,  not  far  from  Cemay-la-Vllle  (see  below),  and 
follows  the  other  side  of  the  Talley.  Walkers,  however,  find  a  shorter 
and  pleasanter  path  leading  along  the  bank  of  the  stream.  In  7  min. 
we  reach  the  Petit-Moulin  (rfmts.),  near  a  little  waterfall.  On  the 
opposite  bank  is  the  EdteL  de8  Cascades  or  Leopold,  a  favourite  resort 
of  artists,  in  the  lower  part  of  Gemay-la-Yille  (10  min. ;  see  above). 
An  omnibus  starts  here  for  Boullay-les-Troux  (p.  853).  The  foot- 
path on  the  left  bank  now  becomes  less  interesting.  In  6  min.  more 
we  reach  the  Grand  Moulin,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  long  Etang  de 
Cernay.  In  the  vicinity  is  a  Monument  to  Pelouse  (d.  1892),  a  land- 
scape-painter who  drew  attention  to  the  beauties  of  this  valley.  We 
may  either  rejoin  the  carriage-road  here,  or  proceed  straight  on 
through  the  woods  for  2b  min.  to  the  picturesquely-situated  hamlet 
of  Lea  Vaux~de~  Cernay y  on  the  Etang  dea  Vaux.  The  Abbaye  de$ 
Vaux^dc' Cernay,  situated  near  the  pond,  was  founded  in  1128. 
The  ruined  church,  in  the  Romanesque  style,  with  its  portal  and  S. 
aisle,  the  vaulting  of  which  is  still  entire,  is  the  most  interesting 
part  extant.  Visitors  are  admitted  by  special  permission  only. 

The  village  of  Oernay-la-Yille  (H6tel  de  la  Poste,  in  the  Grand'  Place; 
des  Cascada,  see  above),  on  the  hill  to  the  S.,  with  a  steeple  dominating 
the  valley  near  the  Etang  de  Gemay  (see  above)  is  of  little  interest.  Om- 
nibus to  Boallay-leS'Trouz,  see  p.  353. 

m.    From  Paris  to  Montlh^ry.  Arpajon. 

a.  By  the  Tramway  d* Arpajon. 

19  M.  Tramway  in  1  hr.  50  min.;  fares  1  fr.  90,  1  fr.  35  c.  This 
tramway  starts  at  Bue  de  Mddicis  13,  near  th£  Luxembourg,  every  40  min. 
in  summer,  aad  every  IV4  hr.  in  wimer  for  Antnny.  and  every  2  hrs. 
and  2Vs  hrs.  for  the  whole  distance.  ^Gorrespondance*  with  the  omnibuses 
and  tramways  A,  H,  y,  Z,  AF,  TO,  and  T(i  (cump.  Appz). 

The  route  within  Paris  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  tramway  to 
Montrouge,  via  the  Boul,  St,  Michel,  the  Carre  four  and  Avenue  de 
tObaervatoire  (p.  285),  the  Rue  and  Place  Denfert-Boehereau  (p.  288), 
and  the  Avenue  d'OrUam  (chur<5h  of  Montrouge,  p.  289).  —  The 
Tramway  d' Arpajon  proper  begins  outside  the  city,  at  the  Porte 
d'OrUana  (PI.  Q,  18),  where  the  horses  are  replaced  by  a  steam- 
engine.  The  tramway  follows  the  Orleans  road,  via  Le  Orand-Mont- 
rouge,  an  uninteresting  manufacturing  village  (three  stations^,  Arcutil 
(Yache  Noire),  and  La  Croix-d'Arcueil,  to  the  W.,  near  the  extrem- 
ity of  the  village  (p.  350).    To  the  right  is  the  Fort  de  Montrouge, 
beyond  which  is  the  extensive  Cemetery  of  Bagneux,  Fine  view,  to 
the  right,  of  Bagneuz  and  Fontenay-aux-Ro8e«*^  to  \Xi<^  \&\\..^  "^^ 
double  Aqueduct  ofArcneil.  —  Orange  d'Ory,  —  V^l^"^.  Bug-^^^-vixs 
the  viUage  (p.  349)  lies  about  8/4  M.  to  t\ie  ^ .  To  ^«k  ^^"^  ^^'^ 
Sceanx,  and,  beyond  the  Ligne  de  Sceatix,  iViC»  Vr^^^©  ViNwcM\.  '^^^ 


356  20.  MONTLHfiRY. 

line  descends  rapidly  to  La  Fa'iencerie,  a  station  just  outside  Bouig- 
la-Reine. 

3  M.  Bonrg^la-Beine  (p.  351),  station  in  the  Place  Gondorcet  — 
In  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  not  far  from  the  Lyc^e  Lakanal  (to 
the  right)  is  the  station  of  PetU-Chambord  (Sceauz;  p.  361).  — 
3^2  M.  La  CroiX'de'Bemy ,  a  group  of  houses  at  the  point  where 
the  tramway  intersects  the  road  from  Versailles  to  Ghoisy-le-Boi. 
About  IVi^*  to  ^^^  ^*  ^  Freanes-U8-Rungi8i  with  the  laige  prisons 
(1500  cells)  built  in  1898  to  supersede  some  of  those  in  Paris.  The 
place  of  staircases  in  these  buildings  is  throughout  taken  by  lifts. 
->  Farther' on  is  Antony  (p.  352),  where  the  tramway  has  a  stopping- 
place  before  reaching  the  (5  M.)  principal  station.  Some  of  the  cars 
go  on  hence,  crossing  the  Bievre,  to  the  station  of  Pont  d' Antony. 

The  tramway  continues  to  ascend  the  Orleans  road,  crossing  the 
Ligne  de  Grande-Geinture,  to  Le  Petit-Massy,  a  station  1^4  M.  to 
the  left  of  Massy  (p.  352).  Fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Bierre. 
We  here  turn  to  the  left  and  cross  a  plain.  —  6^/4  M.  Wtssoua  has  a 
church  part  of  which  dates  from  the  12th  century.  Beyond  MorangU 
with  its  large  modem  chUeau,  the  line  descends  towards  the  valley 
of  the  Yvette.  Near  the  station  of  ChiUy-Mazarin  (p.  353)  formerly 
stood  a  chliteau  of  the  Due  de  Mazarin,  nephew  of  the  famous  car- 
dinal.   Station  of  CMUy-Qfandt'Ceiniure. 

10 V2  M.  Longjnmeau  {H6tel  St.  Pierre,  Grande  Buej  Du  Gouirosi, 
near  the  tramway-station),  an  old  town  with  2440  inhab.,  noted  for 
the  peace  concluded  in  1d68  between  the  Roman  Gatholics  and  the 
Protestants  (the  ^Paix  Boiteuse').  In  the  Place  de  la  Mairie,  reached 
by  the  Grande  Rue,  rises  a  monument,  by  P.  Foumier,  to  Ad,  Adam 
(1803-66),  composer  of  the  opera  *The  Postilion  of  Longjumeau\ 
Farther  on  is  the  Church  (13-14th  cent.). 

12  M.  SatUx-Us-Choftreux  lies  to  the  E.  of  the  wooded  hills 
beyond  which  isPalaiseau  (about  1^/4  M.;  p.  353).  At  the  station  of 
Ballainvilliers  the  tramway  returns  to  the  Orleans  road.  —  14*/4  M. 
La  Orange-avX'Cerelei;  16  M.  La  Ville-du-Bois,  To  the  left 
appears  the  tower  of  Montlh^ry.  The  station  of  Longpont  is  nearly 
1 Y4  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  village  of  Longpont,  the  old  priory-chnreh 
of  which  is  an  interesting  Romanesque  building,  largely  restored  Jn 
the  original  style. 

151/2  M.  Hontlh^ry  (Hotel  du  Chapeau-Rouge,  Rue  de  la  Gha- 
pelle ;  Soleil  d'Or,  Rue  des  Juifs ;  Cheval  Blanc,  at  the  station ;  Caffs, 
near  the  ruins),  an  ancient  and  picturesque  town  of  2320  inhab.,  is 
situated  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  crowned  by  a  massive  tower.  Mont- 
Ih^ry  possessed  a  celebrated  mediaeval  fortress,  which  afterwards  be- 
came a  stronghold  of  robbers,  who  successfully  defied  the  kings  of 
FiATice  until  the  13th  cent.,  'Vi\i\\fe  Wife  coAtUitaelfwas  not  destroyed 
until  the  religions  wars. 

The  Rne  Luisant,  leaving  tYie  Oi\€m\%  it^^^  ^  >xN.^%\j«^wA.'^^ 
station,  ascends  to  the  town ,  paasiw^  VXife^U^^  ^xvUsaOiA,  ^«s!Q&ki 


20.  ARPAJON.  357 

on  is  the  Rue  des  Juifs,  witk  the  Rae  de  la  Ghapelle  to  the  left  and 
the  Grande  Rue  to  the  right.  The  Church ^  to  the  right,  is  largely 
Romanesque.  Still  farther  on  is  the  Porte  Bavdryj  dating  from  the 
11th  and  16th  cent.,  but  otherwise  uninteresting. 

The  Burned  Castle,  to  which  we  ascend  to  the  right  of  the  church, 
consists  mainly  of  the  Keep,  100  ft.  high  (13th  cent.),  three  other 
smaller  towers,  and  a  few  shattered  walls.  Visitors  are  permitted 
to  ascend  the  keep  (10  c.)  to  enjoy  the  view,  which,  however,  is 
nearly  as  good  from  the  foot. 

The  railway-station  of  8t.  Miehel-iw-Orge  (p.  359)  lies  to  the  E.  of 
tfoatlh^ry,  the  side  furthest  from  the  tramway-roate. 

A  branch-tramway  rans  hence  to  the  W.  to  (IV4  H.)  MareouuUy  a 
large  village  with  a  ch&teau  and  limestone-quarries.  —  The  main  Tbamway 
goes  on  via  Lintu  (which  adjoins  Montlh^ry  and  possesses  an  interesting 
church),  Letsvitte^  and  8t.  Germatn-ta-irorville ,  to  (SVs  M.)  Arpajon  (Lion 
<V Argent^  Fontaine^  Grande  Bue  97  and  95),  a  town  of  3000  inhab.  on  the 
Orffe.  The  narrow  Bue  de  Glos  leads  straight  from  the  tramway  terminus 
to  the  middle  of  the  single  long  street  (Orleans  road),  of  which  Arpi^^n 
mainly  consists.  The  boulevards  to  the  left  of  the  terminus  lead  to  the 
(s/4  H.)  railway-station  on  the  line  from  Paris  to  Dourdan  (p.  359).  On 
an  island  in  the  Orge  stands  a  tasteful  modern  ff6ta  de  VilU.  To  the 
right  in  the  main  street  is  the  Church  (12th  and  15th  cent.),  of  which  the 
belfry  and  the  choir  should  be  noticed.  In  the  other  part  of  the  town, 
to  the  left  as  we  return  by  the  Grande  Bue,  are  some  ancient  timber 
constructions. 

b.  Via  Ohoigy-le-Boi  and  St.  Uiohel-fur-Orge. 

TsAMWAT,  Bail  WAT,  and  Ojcmibus.  —  Tramwat  from  the  Ch&telet 
(Square  St.  Jacques)  to  Choisi^,  TVs  M.,  in  1  hr.  20  min.  (fares  65,  40  c). 
This  tramway,  starting  every  40  min.,  has  'correspondance'  with  the  city 
tramways  and  omnibuses.  —  Bailwat  from  the  Gare  d'Orl^ns  to  Choityy 
6V4  H.,  in  15-20  min.  (fares  1  fr.  10, 65,  50  c,  return-tickets  1  fr.  70,  1  fr.  5, 
80  c);  to  at.  Mieha.  18  H.,  in  V4I  hr.  (fares  8  fr.  25,  2  fr.  20,  1  fr.  45  c, 
return-tickets  4  fr.  85,  3  fr.  50,  2  fr.  80  c).  —  Omnibus  from  St.  Michel  to 
Montlhiry,  IVa  M.,  in  20  min.  (fare  80  c.-,  free  to  holders  of  through  rail- 
way-tickets). 

STBAksoATS  ply  every  half-hour  from  the  Qiiai  du  Louvre  to  \Ahlon 
(p.  358)  on  Thurs.,  Sun.,  and  holidays  in  summer  (in  ls/4  hr.^  fare  40  c, 
on  Thurs.  30c.),  touching  at  the  Pont  d'AusterliU  Oeft  bank),  Pont  National 
(1.),  Let  CarrUru  (r.),  VUry  (1.),  AJfortvme-BarragB  (r. ;  change  steamers), 
GhoUy-U'Roi  (1.),  Yilleneuve-Triage  (r.),  and  Villeneuve-St-George*  (r.). 

I.  By  Tbamway,  to  Ghoisy.   The  line  runs  vi&  the  H6td  de  VilU, 
Notre-Dame,  the  Rue  Monge,  the  Oobelint  (p.  268),  and  the  Place 
d'JtalU  (p.  270),  where  the  line  to  Bic^tre  and  Villejuif  diverges  to 
the  right  and  the  line  to  Ivry-sur-Seine  (p.  357)  to  the  left.    Our 
line  quits  the  city  by  the  Avenue  and  the  Porte  de  Choisy  (PI.  B,  27) 
and  passes  between  Bicetre  and  Ivry.   To  the  right  is  the  Cemetery 
of  Ivry;  on  the  hill  is  the  HoMpice  de  BicHre  for  aged  and  insane  men 
(3150  beds);  farther  on,  the  Fort  de  Bieitre.   To  the  left  appears  Jvry 
(p.  3671.    To  the  right,  farther  on,  on  a  hill,  lies  Villejtdf^  a  viUa^^e 
of  5200  inhab.,  commanding  a  fine  view,  to  ^\»i^  ^  tq^^  ^^^'k^'^'^ 
in  Bhout  %  hr.  from  Vitry,  via  the  Moulin  Saquci,^\iii2!a.^vi^^^^J^ 
important  part  In  the  aiege  of  Paris  in  IBTO-IV.  — '^^^  \x«xsc«^n 
next  reaches  Vitry,  an  old  village  with  BOOO  \tv\i;CV>.,  «.x\^  vev  \\sX«t^^^- 


358  20.  JUVISY. 

ing  Church  (13-14th  cent.).   Railway-station,  see  below.  —  Thence 
we  follow  the  Avenue  de  Paris  to  Choisy-le-Boi  (see  below). 

b.  By  Railway.  —  Oare  d'OrlSanSy  see  p.  26.  Beyond  (1^4  M.) 
OrUan/f-CeirUure,  where  we  pass  beneath  the  Ligne  de  Petite-Gein- 
ture,  we  quit  Paris.  To  the  right  is  Jvry^  a  manufacturing  suburb 
with  26^00  inhab.,  a  modern  MairiCy  a  large  HoipUtU  for  Incurables 
(2029  beds),  and  a  fort.  Tramway  to  Paris  and  from  Boulogne  to 
Vincennes,  see  Appx.,  p.  31.  —  6V2  M.  Vitry;  the  station  is  V2  M. 
from  the  centre  of  the  village  (see  above).  The  railway  now  ap- 
proaches the  Seine. 

6V4  M.  Choisy-le-Boi  (^Hdtel  des  Voyageurs,  at  the  end  of  the 
Rue  du  Pont ;  Restaurant  Pompadour j  on  the  right  bank,  near  the 
bridge),  a  pleasant  town  with  9900  inhab.,  and  the  scanty  remains 
of  a  chlteau  built  by  Louis  XY.  as  a  shelter  for  his  debaucheries. 

Near  the  bridge,  before  the  station,  on  the  left  bank,  is  a  bronze 
Statue  of  a  Fighting  Sailor ^  by  Hercule,  commemorating  the  combats 
at  the  *Gare  aux  Boeufs'  in  1870.  —  The  Rue  du  Pont  passes  a  little 
to  the  left  of  the  former  Bvildinga  of  the  Chdteau,  now  occupied  by 
a  porcelain  manufactory,  as  is  also  the  portion  of  the  chateau  at  the 
end  of  the  Avenue  de  Paris.  The  Mairie  and  the  Church ,  on  the 
right  of  the  street  farther  on,  date  from  the  same  period  as  the  chateau. 
At  the  point  where  the  street  ends  in  the  handsome  Avenue  de  Paris 
is  a  bronze  statue,  by  L.  Steiner,  of  Rou^get  de  Lisle ,  author  of  the 
^Marseillaise',  who  died  at  Ghoisy  in  1836.  The  Avenue  (traversed 
by  the  tramway  firom  Paris,  p.  367)  ends  a  little  farther  on  beside 
the  railing  of  the  old  chlteau.  —  Steamboat,  see  p.  357. 

From  the  Avenue  to  Sceaux  (p.  361),  51/4  M. ;  to  La  Croix-de-Jkmy  (p.  856), 
5  H.    From  the  bridge  to  Ci'^teil  (p.  302),  3  M.;  to  BonneuU  (p.  SOT).  8S/4  M. 

Beyond  Ghoisy  the  railway  passes  under  the  Ligne  de  Grande- 
Ceinture.  —  91/2  M.  Ablon^  a  village  about  IV4  M.  to  the  S.W.  of 
Yilleneuve-St-Georges  (p.  359)  by  the  left  bank  of  the.  Seine.  Steam- 
boats to  Paris ,  see  p.  367.  —  The  Seine  is  seen  on  the  left.  — 
101/2  M.  AthU'Mons,  To  the  right  are  wooded  hills  dotted  with 
tasteful  villas;  to  the  left  is  the  railway  firom  Paris  to  Montargis  via 
Gorbeil  (see  Baedeker's  Northern  France). 

121/2  M.  Jnvisy-Bur-Orge  (Hdtel  BeUe-Fontaine),  a  town  with 
2900  inhab.,  and  a  station  used  by  both  railways.  The  park  of  the 
old  Ghateau  was  laid  out  by  Le  N6tre.  —  Our  line  now  ascends  the 
pretty  valley  of  the  Orge,  which  is  crossed  by  the  Pont  ds$  BelUi- 
Fontaines,  consisting  of  two  bridges  one  above  the  other,  built  in 
the  18th  century. 

i3^/2  M,    Savigny-iur^Orge  has  a  fine  16th  cent  CMUeau  (to  the 

left).  A  little  farther  on  is  a  "biaivfcV  ol\JcL«k\A!pi<a  de  Grande-Cein- 

turoj  running  towards  Pa\«iftea\x  ^^.  ^^^'^.  —  ^^  «»%>%. yv^Aswt 

both  before  and  after  the  Ci5  ^.^  ^VeXwr^^^oc^^V^  '^'''^'*\^^*f*^x 

<^>V*.   In  the  distance,  to  t\ie  tigtit,  \%  tVe  lo^w  ^\U«ii?KW%«^  V$*^>=^' 


21.  VILLENEUVE-ST-GEOBGES.  359 

16  M.  Perray'Vaucluse  is  the  station  for  the  extensive  lunatic 
asylum  of  Vauclwe,  belonging  to  the  city  of  Paris.  The  buildings 
rise  in  tiers  on  a  hill  to  the  right.  —  18  M.  8t.  Mirhel-sur-Orge, 

The  railway  goes  on  to  BriHgnif,  where  it  forks,  the  left  branch  running 
to  Etampea^  Orliant^  Toun^  etc.,  the  right  branch  to  Arpajon  (p.  367; 
23  M.  from  Paris),  DourcUm,   Tours^  etc.    See  Baedeker''*  Northern  France. 

The  road  from  St.  Michel  to  Montlhtfry  passes,  on  the  right,  the 
handsome  Chdteau  de  Lormoy,  Farther  on,  nearly  1  M.  from  the 
station ,  a  road  diverges  to  the  right  to  ( Y2  M.)  Longpont  (p.  356), 
which  is  united  with  Montlhtfry  by  a  cross-road.  We  may  reach  the 
ruined  castle  of  Montlh^ry  without  entering  the  town,  by  a  path  to 
the  left  at  the  first  houses,  in  continuation  of  the  route  from  Long- 
pont. —  MontlhSry,  see  p.  356. 

21.   Prom  Paris  to  Pontaineblean. 

87  M.  Ghbxin  OB  Fbb  db  Lton.  The  journey  occupies  i-l*/4  hr.  (fares 
6  fr.  60,  A  fr.  45,  2  fr,  90  c.  ?  return-Uckets  9  fir.  90.  7  fr.  15,  4  fr.  65 c).  — 
Those  who  visit  Fontainebleau  should  devote  a  whole  day  to  the  excursion ^ 
leaving  Paris  by  an  early  train  (views  on  the  left  side). 

At  (IY4M.)  Bercy-Ceiniure,  a  station  within  Paris,  we  cross  the 
Ligne  de  Ceinture.  —  Beyond  ^3  M.)  Charenton  (p.  302),  we  cross 
the  Mame,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Seine.  To  the  left  is  the 
Hospice  de  St.  Maurice  (p.  302).  On  the  left  bank  of  the  Marne  lies 
Alfortville  (p  302).  To  the  left  rises  the  Fort  of  Charenton^  com- 
manding the  Seine  and  the  Marne.  4Y2  ^*  MaUons-Alfort^  a  village 
with  9500  inhab.,  some  distance  beyond  which  we  cross  the  Ligne 
de  Grande-Oeinture  (pp.  27,  363). 

9V?  M.  Villeneiive-8t-Oeorges  {Cafit  at  the  station),  a  village 
with  6485  inhab.,  and  a  suspension-bridge  over  the  Seine,  is  pic- 
turesquely situated  on  the  slope  of  a  wooded  hill  to  the  left.  Above 
the  village  is  a  fort.  A  monument  in  the  Square  de  la  Mairie 
commemorates  Victor  Duruy  (1811-94),  statesman  and  historian. 
Villeneuve  is  also  a  station  on  the  Ligne  de  Grande-Ceinture 
(p.  353).    Steamboat  to  Paris,  see  p.  357. 

From  Yillbkbuvb-St-Gboboes  (Paris)  to  Meluk  viA  Cobbbil,  26V«  M., 
railway  in  i'/a-li/s  hr.  (fares  4  fr.  95,  3  fr.  85.  2  fr.  15  c).  This  line,  8  M. 
longer  than  the  dirert  route,  turns  to  the  right  and  cro<«ses  the  Ttres.  — 
Beyond  (ls/4  M  )  Draveil-Vigneux  it  crosses  the  Seine  and  runs  parallel  with 
the  line  to  Orleans.  —  4V«  M.  Juvisy  (p.  358)  is  also  a  station  on  the  Or- 
leans railway.  Our  line  now  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  latter  and  as- 
cends the  valley  of  the  Seine.  —  7  M.  RU-OrcmgU.  On  the  opposite  bank 
are  Champrotay^  long  the  residence  of  Alphonse  Daudet,  and  the  Forest  of 
Sinart.  The  latter  abounds  in  eame,  but  the  shooting-enclosureR  redace 
its  attractions  for  walkers;  tht  Brmitage,  with  two  restaurants,  V^^^*  from 
the  station,  is  the  mo.ot  frequented  spot.  —  9i/s  H.  Evry-Petit-Bourg.  To 
the  left  are  Decauville's  lron-work8  (plant  for  narrow-gauge  railways^  etcA- 

111/4  M.  OorbeU  {H6UI  de  la  BeUe  Image^  to  tYvft  \«il\.,  \i«\oT«k  >iX^fe  \jc:x\Ss.\ 
Bellemte,  on  the  right  bank,   by  the  bridged,  vrtt\v  ^V^  Vtfaa^i.^  \%  ^\n.>^^^^^*^ 
at  the  eonauenee  of  the  Seine  and  the  EMorme.    TYife  v»«ftM.«.  "^^^^^^"^  ^J^ 
the  BUtion  le»dB  to  the  Jfowfins  de  Corheil,  the  \a.T%ftal  ^^^^-^'^^>v  ^^^-l^- 
(ao  admission).    A  little  beyond  this   ari  the  Hdtel  da  VUU  wvft.  v^^^  ^^ 


360  21.    MELUN. 

some  OdUfftumi  MonumefU»  by  Ohapa,  eommemoratin|  the  well-known  Paris 

Publishers  (d.  1873  and  lo83),  who  were  substantial  benefactors  of  Oorbeil. 
'he  Hue  l^otre  Dame  and  Rue  St.  Spire  lead  thenee  past  the  fine  Gothic 
Forte  8t.  Spire  (15th  cent.)  to  the  church  of  St.  Spire^  a  Gothic  building 
of  the  12th,  13th,  and  15th  centuries.  In  the  first  chapel  to  the  right  are 
the  tombs  ofHajmon,  Count  of  Corbeil  (d.  957),  and  Jacques  deBourgoin 
de  Corbeil  (d.  1661).  founders  respectively  of  the  church  and  of  the  college. 
The  former  church  of  St.  Jean-en-rile  now  contains  a  small  Mutie.  ■— 
About  1  H.  to  the  S.W.  lies  the  village  of  Euonnet^  with  a  large  paper 
mill  (3000  workmen).  —  From  Corbeil  to  MorUargii^  see  Baedeker''*  Nor&tem 
France. 

The  Melun  l|ne  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  Montargis  line,  then 
passes  under  it,  and,  beyond  (13  M.)  ViUabi  and  a  bridge  'over  ttie  Bssonne, 
enters  a  tunnel  Vs  M.  in  lengthy  finally  emerging  on  the  picturesquely 
wooded  left  bank  of  the  Seine.  —  ISVa  M.  Cottdrap-MorUceaux;  18  M.  St. 
Fargeau- Seine- Port.  Seine-Port,  on  the  right  bank,  is  reached  by  a  ferry  from 
the  station.  —  SOVa  M.  PonthieiTy-Pringy^  with  a  bridge  over  the  Seine.  — 
Beyond  (23Vt  M.)  Fosoes,  where  we  skirt  the  park  of  the  Gh&teau  de  Be- 
lombre.  our  line  rejoins  the  direct  line  from  Paris. 

2672  H.  Kelun,  see  below.  —  The  line  from  Gorbeil  crosses  the  Seine 
at  Melun  and  proceeds  along  the  right  bank  to  (22>/2  M.)  Ifontereau  (see 
Baedeker^*  Northern  I^anee).  Beyond  Champagne^  the  6th  station  on  this 
extension,  we  see  the  Forest  of  Fontainebleau  on  the  left  bank,  while 
(101/2  M.)  Vulainee,  the  5th  station,  is  only  1>/4M.  from  the  station  of 
Fontainebleau  and  11/4  H.  from  the  Tour  Denecourt  (p.  867). 

Beyond  yilleneuye-St-Georges  the  beautiful  green  dale  of  the 
Ylfts^  a  small  but  deep  river,  bordered  with  rows  of  willows  and 
poplars,  is  traversed.  —  Between  (11  M.)  Monigeron  and  (13  M.) 
Bfunoy^  the  train  crosses  the  Y^res.  The  chain  of  hills  and  the  plain 
are  studded  with  innumerable  dwellings.  The  train  now  crosses  a 
viaduct  413  yds.  long  and  100  ft.  in  height,  commanding  a  beautiful 
view,  and  then  enters  the  plain  of  the  Brie.  —  I674  M.  Comba-la- 
Ville.  — 191/2  M.  Lieusaint.  —  24  M.  Cesson.  Near  Melun  the  Seine 
is  again  reached  and  crossed.  To  the  right  is  the  line  from  Paris 
vi^  Corbeil  (see  above). 

28  M.  Melon  (^Qrand  Monarque^  Rue  du  Miroir,  R.2V2,  D-  21/2  fr.; 
du  Commerce,  Rue  Carnot,  both  near  St.  Aspais),  the  capital  of  the 
D^partement  de  Seine  et  Marne,  is  an  ancient  town  with  13,650  in- 
hab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  an  eminence  above  the  Seine. 

Melun  Is  the  Melodunum  mentioned  by  Ceesar  as  having  beeiA  captured 
by  his  lieutenant  Labienus.  The  Normans  also  laid  it  waste  five  times  in 
the  4th  cent.;  and  after  it  had  become  a  royal  residence  it  was  again 
several  times  captured:  by  Charles  the  Bad  of  Navarre  in  1358;  by  Du  Gnes- 
Clin  in  1359;  by  the  English  in  1420,  after  an  obstinate  resistance  by  the 
inhabitants,  who  succeeded  in  expelling  the  Invaders  ten  years  later;  and 
by  Henri  IV.  In  1590. 

The  Rue  de  la  Gare,  to  the  left,  and  the  handsome  Avenue  Thiers, 

to  the  right,  lead  from  the  station  to  the  old  town,  partly  built  on 

an  island  in  the  Seine.   A  monument  to  the  victims  of  the  war  of 

i870'7i  was  erected  in  1899  at  the  corner  of  the  Avenue  Thiers  and 

the  jBouIevard  St.  AmbiolBe.   On  t\ie \«\%.TidL^  to  the  right,  rises  the 

Church  of  Notre-Damt^  "built  \n  t\ift  \\-V)A\i  t«w\.,  \f^\.  «SN«c«%xd8 

remodelled  and  regtored  in  tbie  i^\\i teiTilxvii .  T5i^\xwiA«^\^w.«a.- 

"lon/ited  by  two  Romanesciue  to^ew.  T\v<s\\i^x\^^,^'^^^^'^'^^'«w^- 


21.  MELUN.  361 

ing  portion  of  which  is  the  ohoir,  contains  some  excellent  old  paint- 
ings :  in  the  right  aisle,  Descent  from  the  Gross,  hy  JordaenSj  after 
Rnbens ;  Infant  Moses,  by  Primaticeio ;  Ecce  Homo,  by  Seb,  Franek ; 
in  the  choir,  an  early  copy  ef  Raphael's  large  Holy  Family.  In  the 
right  aisle  there  is  also  a  good  funeral  monument  (15th  cent.). 

The  principal  street  on  the  other  side  of  the  island  skirts  the 
back  of  the  Church  of  8t.  Aspais  (16th  cent.),  on  the  apse  of  which 
is  a  modern  medallion  of  Joan  of  Arc,  by  Ghapu,  erected  to  com- 
memorate the  expulsion  of  the  English  in  1430.  The  exterior  is 
richly  decorated,  while  the  interior  deviates  from  the  usual  form  iu 
haying  double  aisles  terminating  in  apses.  The  choir  has  some  fine 
old  stained  glass  and  six  handsome  marble  medallions  of  apostles 
and  church- fathers,  dating  from  the  17th  century.  The  right  aisle 
contains  two  ancient  paintings,  a  Last  Supper  and  the  Hebrew 
Children  In  the  Fiery  Furnace;  in  t^Q  left  aisle  is  a  large  modern 
painting  of  Christ,  by  H.  Schopin.    Fine  organ-case. 

In  front  of  St.  Aspais  is  a  tasteful  new  Savings  Bank,  The  Rue 
du  Miroir  ascends  thence  to  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  in  which 
are  situated  the  Belfry  of  8U  BaHhiUmy^  erected  in  the  18th  cent., 
and  the  modern  Prifeeturej  In  the  style  of  Louis  XIII.  —  To  the 
left,  as  we  ascend,  is  the  Boulevard  Victor-Hugo,  in  which  is  a 
Monument  to  Poateur  (1822-90),  with  a  bust  and  group  in  bronze  by 
A.  d'Houdain. 

To. the  right,  beyond  St.  Aspais,  is  the  Rue  de  rH6tel  de  Ville, 
in  which  is  the  H6tel  de  Ville,  a  handsome  Renaissance  edifice,  part 
of  which  is  ancient.  In  the  interior  is  a  small  Museum,  comprising 
local  antiquities,  paintings,  and  casts  of  the  works  of  the  sculptor 
Chapu  (1833-91),  who  was  born  in  the  neighbourhood  (apply  to 
the  concierge).  The  court  is  embellished  with  a  Statue  of  Amyot 
(1513-93),  a  native  of  Melun,  bishop  of  Auxerre  and  translator  of 
Plutarch.  Behind  the  H6tel  de  Ville  lies  a  tasteful  public  garden. 
By  the  Rue  de  rH6tel-de -Ville  we  reach  the  Place  St.  Jean,  with 
its  ornamental  modern  fountain. 

Farther  on,  on  an  eminence  above  the  rigbt  bank  of  the  Seine,  lies  the 
park  of  the  ChdUaude  Vauz-le-BSnU  (18th  cent),  which  afifords  pleasant  walks. 

The  Oh&teau  de  Yaux-Praslin  or  Vaux-te-Vicomte,  a  gorgeous  structure 
of  the  17th  cent.,  lying  about  4  H.  from  Helun,  in  the  same  direction,  is 
reached  by  the  road  ascending  to  the  right  from  the  Place  St.  Jean.  The 
ch&teau.  which  is  surrounded  by  an  immense  park,  was  erected  at  a  cost 
of  720,000;.  by  NieoUu  Fouquet,  ^surintendant  des  finances'  under  Louis  XIY. 
The  owner  was  in  the  habit  of  entertaining  the  king  here  at  costly  fStes, 
which  eventually  led  to  his  ruin,  as  the  enormous  expenses  could  only  be 
met  by  a  dishonest  use  of  the  public  funds.  The  interior,  which  contains 
paintings  by  Le  Brun  and  Mignard,  valuable  tapestries,  etc.,  may  be  in- 
spected on  application  to  the  proprietor. 

A  steam-tramway  plies  from  Melun  to  BarbUon  (p.  368)  in  ^(^  hr.^  v^a.^*^- 
int;  Danmarie  and  Chaillif. 

Railway  from  Paris  to  Montermu  via  Corheil  vtv\  M«.\uiv^  %«k^  '^^  ^siv. 

Beyond  Melun  we  see  the  OhUeau  d©Va.\3LX.-\«i-^4\vW^^^^2^^^'^^ 
on  the  left.     Then,  after  affording  seveTsX  ^\c\.\LTft?.QL^\^  ^N^k^'^^^ 


362  21.  FONTAINEBLEAU. 

the  valley  of  the  Seine  on  the  same  side,  the  train  enters  the  forest 
of  Fontaineblean.  —  31 V2  M.  Boia-U-Roi  (H6t.  de  la  Yalltfe-de-U- 
Solle,  Soleil  d'Or,  both  near  the  station)  lies  to  the  N.£.  of  the 
forest  (comp.  the  Map).  In  the  new  cemetery  is  the  monument  of  the 
composer  Olivier  M^tra  (d.  1889),  with  a  hast  by  Lnd.  Durand. 

37  M.  Eontainebleau.  —  The  station  is  about  iVs  M  from  the  palaee 
(electric  tramway  80  c.)'  Visitors  who  arrive  before  lunch-time  should 
proceed  direct  from  the  station  to  the  Tour  Denecourt  (p.  367).  The  offers 
of  cabmen  to  drive  the  visitor  to  all  the  places  of  interest  at  an  inclusive 
charge  should  be  declined. 

Hotels.  Db  Franuk  bt  d^Anolbtebbe  ,  db  l^Aiolb  Noxb,  and  db 
i/EuBoPE  (B.  4-6  fr.),  all  near  the  palace  (arrange  prices  on  ordering)^ 
DB  LA  ViLLB  DB  Lton  et  DB  LoMDRBS,  Buc  Boyalo  2i,  iu  the  same  style; 
Lion  d*Ob,  Rue  des  Bons-Enfants  25,  B.,  L.,  ft  A.  4,  B.  1,  d^j.  SVsi  !>•  4> 
pens.  10-12  fr.;  db  la  Ghanobllbbib,  Bue  Grande  2,  near  the  puace.  D. 
3  fr.  ^  DD  Cadran-Blbu,  Bue  Grande  9.  B.,  L.,  A  A.  2Vt-8,  B.  1,  d^i.  3, 
D.  3V2^  pens.  10  fr. ;  Hdx.  dd  Ctomb,  Bue  Grande  34,  B.  2-6,  d^.  Qi/si  ^-  8| 
pens.  8  fr. ;  HStel-Pension  Laonoy,  Buul.  de  Magenta  37,  well  spoken  of, 
B.  3-5,  L.  1/2,  B.  lV4j  d^j.  3Vi,  D.  4V«,  pens.  10-13fr.j  H6tel-Pbb8ioh  Viotorxa, 
Bue  de  France  112. 

Bestaurants.  At  the  hotels;  also,  NiffHn^  Bue  Grande  112,  d^j.  2- 
2V21  D-  21/2-3  fr.;  numerous  less  pretending  establishments. — Oi^M.  iFaim- 
din,  Bue  des  Bons-Bnfants  33t  ^TenH//.,  Bue  Ghrande  66  (  Cadram  JBImi, 
see  above;  de  VmuUde-YilU,  Bue  Grande  23. 

Oabs.  Per  drive  in  the  town,  1  fir. ;  to  the  station,  3  fr.  (^/s  fr.  extra 
*demandde  k  domicile'))  from  the  station  to  any  address  in  the  town.  2  fr. 
Per  hour:  in  the  town  3  fr. ;  in  the  forest,  according  to  arrangemeat. 
Luggage  30  c.  per  66  lbs.  (30  kil.). 

Post  and  Telegraph  Ottce,  Place  Denecourt  and  Bue  de  la  Chaneellerie. 

Fontaine6l«au,  which,  like  Versailles,  owes  its  origin  chiefly  to  the 
palace,  is  a  quiet  place  with  broad,  dean  streets,  and  14,000  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  now  a  fashionable  and  expensive  summer-resort  Ex- 
cept the  palace,  the  only  building  of  any  importance  is  the  HtUl  de 
Ville  in  the  Rue  Grande.  A  little  farther  on  is  a  monument  to  Ttt^- 
dent  Camot  (1837-94),  with  a  bronze  bust  and  a  statue  of  France, 
by  Peynot.  In  the  Place  Gentrale,  at  the  back  of  the  church,  1b  a 
bronze  statue,  by  Godln,  of  Oeneral  DamesmCy  a  native  of  Fontaine- 
blean, who  was  killed  at  Paris  in  June,  1848. 

*Falaoe.    The  chateau  or  palace  of  Fontaineblean,  situated  on 
the  S.W.  side  of  the  town,  is  said,  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  for- 
tified chateau  founded  by  Louis  YII.  in  1162.     It  was  FraneU  i. 
(d.  1547),  however,  who  converted  the  mediaval  fortress  into  a 
palace  of  almost  unparalleled  extent  and  magnificence.  The  exterior 
is  less  imposing  than  that  of  some  other  contemporaneous  edifices, 
but  the  interior,  which  was  decorated  by  French  and  Italian  artists 
(Fontaineblean  school,  see  p.  89)  in  the  style  of  Giulio  Romano,  is 
deservedly  much  admired.    Henri  IV,  (d.  1610)  made  considerable 
additions ,  but  since  that  period  it  has  undergone  little  alteration. 
It  was  a  favonrite  residence  of  Napoleon  /.,  but  after  the  Restora- 
tion  it  waa  much  neglected.  Louis  Philippe  a.iA'Ka'9Q»\MiiwlII«  spent 
Jarge  sums  of  money  in  restOTlng  \t. 
r.i  ,?^^«'*J  histortcal  aaaoclationa  »ttac\i  \o  Si-t,3!i^%^;S^^^ 
relating  to  Napoleon ,  Piui  Vll.,  fcn^  <^^a^^  C;\«\aV«i%.  ^^v«i  «%  tm». 


21.  FONTAINEBLBAU.  363 

tioned  afterwards.  Francis  I.  receiYed  Charles  V.  at  Fontainebleau  in  1638. 
Louis  Xlll.  was  bom  here  in  1601.  On  4th  June.  1602,  Henri  IV.  caused 
his  companion  in  arms  Marshal  Biron  to  be  arrested  here  on  a  charge  of 
high  treason,  to  be  beheaded  in  the  Bastille  a  month  later.  Here,  in  1685, 
Lonis  XIV.  signed  the  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  l^antes,  by  which 
Henri  IV.  had  granted  toleration  to  the  Protestants  in  15b8.  The  Grand 
Cond^  died  here  in  1686,  and  it  was  in  this  palace  that  the  sentence  of 
divorce  was  pronounced  against  the  Empress  Josephine  in  1809. 

The  palace  is  shown  daily  from  10  to  5  o'clock  in  summer  and 
from  11  to  4  In  winter,  gratis.  The  custodian  who  shows  the  apart- 
ments is  to  be  found  at  the  entrance,  or  In  the  principal  court,  or  in 
the  offices  to  the  left  of  the  railing.    The  visit  occupies  about  1  hr. 

The  Cour  du  Cheval  Blane,  by  which  we  enter,  derives  its  name 
from  a  statue  it  once  contained.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  Cour  de» 
Adieux  from  having  been  the  scene  of  Napoleon's  parting  from  the 
grenadiers  of  his  Old  Guard  on  20th  April,  1814,  after  his  abdication. 
Here,  too,  on  20th  March,  1815,  on  his  return  &om  Elba,  the  em- 
peror reviewed  the  same  troops  before  marching  with  them  to  Paris. 

The  central  part  of  the  palace  is  approached  by  the  massive 
Eacalier  du  Fer~d-Chevalj  so  named  from  Its  horseshoe  form.  Vis- 
itors generally  enter  here,  on  the  left  side,  and  we  shall  briefly 
describe  the  route  usually  followed  by  the  custodians. 

The  ChapeUe  dt  la  Triniti^  on  the  groundfloor  to  the  left,  has 
a  line  ceiling,  painted  by  Ffirnvnet,  an  imitator  of  Michael  Angelo. 
The  altar-piece  (Descent  from  the  Cross)  is  by  J.  Dubois;  the  statues 
by  0.  Pilon.  In  this  chapel  Louis  XV.  was  married  in  1725,  and 
the  Due  d'Orltfans  (p.  169)  in  1837,  and  Napoleon  III.  was  baptised 
here  in  1810. 

A  broad  staircase  ascending  thence  leads  to  the  first  floor,  where 
we  begin  with  the  Apartments  of  Napoleon  I.,  or  the  Gallery  of 
Francis  I.  (p.  865),  or  sometimes  the  Galerie  des  Assiettes  (p.  365) 
and  the  other  apartments  on  the  front,  which  are  reached  through 
the  Vestibule  du  Fer-a-Cheval. 

The  AppartemenU  de  NapoUon  /.,  on  the  side  of  the  garden  next 
to  the  Orangery,  consist  of  an  antechamber,  with  paintings  above 
the  doors  by  Boucher j  Scipio,  by  Vien,  Roman  women  offering  their 
jewels  for  the  public  service,  by  Brenet^  etc. ;  secretary's  room,  with 
other  paintings ;  'Bath  Boom,  with  mirrors  adorned  with  paintings 
by  BarthSlemyj  brought  from  the  apartments  of  Marie  Antoinette  at 
the  Petit-Trianon ;  room  in  which  Napoleon  signed  his  abdication  on 
4th  April,  1814,  on  the  small  round  table  in  the  centre ;  study,  with 
a  ceiling  by  Regnault,  representing  Law  and  Justice ;  bedroom  with 
a  chimney-pieceof  the  time  of  Louis  XVI.,  Napoleon's  bed,  a  clock 
adorned  with  antique  cameos  (given  to  Napoleon  by  Pius  Vll.), 
large  cabinet  belonging  to  Marie  Louise,  and  other  fine  furniture 
and  bronzes. 

To  the  left  is  the  *8alle  du  Conseil,  ot  X\i«k  ^etv^\  QWQ^Q^s^'i>^^^ 
decorated   by  Boucher^     and    oontamm^  l^\\\v\^^»^   ^^«^^^-^^. 
tapestry^woTk  from  Beanvais.     Large  ta\>\e,  tVe^  ^^^  cAns>c.v^ 


364  21.   FONTAINEBLEAU. 

single  piece.  —  Then  the  *SaUe  du  Trdnty  with  a  handsome  ceiling, 
containing  a  chandelier  in  rock  crystal  and  wainscoting  executed  In 
the  reigns  of  Louis  XIII.  and  Louis  XIY.  —  We  next  enter  the 
AppartemenU  de  Marie  Antoinette :  hei  boudoir,  with  two  fine  ivory 
vases ;  her  ^Bedroom,  adorned  with  silk  hangings  presented  by  the 
city  of  Lyons  and  containing  the  cradle  of  the  King  of  Rome;  rooms 
containing  vases  and  a  table  from  Sdvres  and  a  Jewel-case  of  Marie 
Louise;  the  music-room,  with  a  small  round  table  in  Sevres  porce- 
lain ;  saloon  of  the  ladies-in-waiting. 

We  now  reach  the  Qaterie  de  Dianey  or  de  la  Bibliothkquef  a  hall 
88  yds.  in  length,  constructed  under  Henri  IV.  and  restored  by 
Napoleon  I.  and  Louis  XYIU.  It  is  adorned  with  paintings  repre- 
senting mythological  scenes,  by  Blondel  (d.  1853)  and  A.  de  Pujol 
(d.  1861"),  a  portrait  of  Henri  IV.  by  Afausawsc,  etc.  It  contains 
the  library  (30,000  vols.)  and  a  number  of  curiosities^  including 
Monaldeschi's  sword  and  ooat-of-mail.  At  the  end  are  a  magnificent 
vase  in  ^biscuit'  Sevres,  and  a  glass-case  with  finely  bound  books. 

Under  the  Galerie  de  Diane  is  the  old  Oalerie  det  Cer/tf  which  is 
not  shown  to  visitors.  It  was  in  this  room  in  1657  that  Queen  Christina 
of  Sweden,  while  a  guest  at  the  French  court  after  her  abdication  (1654), 
caused  her  unfortunate  equerry  and  favourite  Count  Monaldesehi  to  be 
put  to  death  after  a  pretended  trial  for  treason.  Louis  XIV.  expressed 
his  strong  disapprobation  of  this  proceeding,  but  took  no  farther  steps 
in  the  matter,  and  Christina  continued  to  reside  at  Fontainebleau  for  two 
years  longer.  Monaldesehi  is  interred  in  the  small  church  of  Avon^  a 
village  on  the  B.  side  of  the  park,  about  1  M.  from  the  palace. 

We  are  next  conducted  to  the  Salons  de  Riception^  overlooking  the 
Cour  Ovale  (p.  366).  The  antechamber  is  embellished  with  Gobe- 
lins tapestry,  and  the  following  apartment  with  tapestry  from  Flan- 
ders (myth  of  Psyche).  The  chamber  of  Francis  I.,  which  contains 
a  handsome  chimney-piece  of  the  16th  century  and  some  ebony 
cabinets  of  the  16th  and  17th  cent.,  is  also  adorned  with  Flemish 
tapestry.  —  The  Salon  Louis  XIII, ^  in  wliich  that  king  was  bom,  is 
adorned  with  paintings  by  Ambroise  Dubois  (1543-1614  or  1615) 
from  the  story  of  Theagenes  and  Charicles,  and  contains  two  carved 
ebony  cabinets  of  the  time  of  Louis  XIU.  In  the  panelling  at  the 
end  is  a  mirror  of  Venetian  glass,  said  to  be  the  earliest  mirror  in- 
troduced into  France.  The  Salle  St,  Louis  contains  fifteen  pictures 
relating  to  the  life  of  Henri  IV.,  a  marble  relief,  by  Jacquet,  of 
Henri  IV.  on  horseback,  etc.  —  In  the  Salon  des  Jeux  is  a  clock 
of  Louis  XIV.,  with  Apollo's  chariot  (from  the  Bassin  d'Apollon  at 
Versailles;  p.  322).  —  The  Salle  des  Gardes^  the  last  of  this  series, 
contains  a  handsome  chimney-piece,  partly  by  0.  Pilon,  adorned  with 
a  bust  of  Henri  IV.  and  statues  of  Power  and  Peace,  an  ancient  ceil- 
I'ng,  and  a  fine  modem  flooring.  A  passage  to  the  left  leads  to  the  — 
Eaealier  duRoi^  or  grand  staircase,  occ\i^^\\i%tkft  alte  of  a  former 
bedroom,  adorned  with  paintings  \)v  Nic  delV  AbboXt  wA.'?t^al«»ftftVi 
«/id  restored  by  A.  de  Pujol,  TYie  au\>^ftc\&  w«a  1^^  ^^\Aft  ^V 
^lexawler.    The  Cour  Ovale  (p.  3^^^  V^  ^eW  *^^v.  U^m >(Nx^\wA\v.v 


21.    FONTAJNBBLEAU.  305 

The  Appartements  de  Mme.  de  Mainienony  which  we  next  entei 
aie  less  interesting.  In  the  salon  is  a  fire-screen  worked  by  the 
ladies  of  St.  Cyr,  a  'Table  by  Bonlle,  and  chairs  covered  in  tapestry. 

—  Thence  a  passage  leads  to  the  — 

*OaUrie  de  Henri  IL,  or  Salle  des  Fttea,  constructed  by  Francis  I., 
richly  decorated  by  Henri  n.,  and  snccessfnlly  restored  by  Louis 
Philippe.  The  mythological  frescoes  by  Ptimatieeio  and  his  pupil 
Nic.  delC  Abbate  have  been  restored  by  Alaux^  and  have  thus  lost 
much  of  their  originality.  At  the  end  of  the  hall  is  a  handsome 
chimney-piece.  The  windows  afford  a  pleasant  surrey  of  the  gardens. 

Retracing  our  steps  to  the  Salon  St.  Louis,  we  turn  to  the  left 
into  the  QaUne  de  Francois  Premier^  which  runs  parallel  with  the 
apartments  of  Napoleon  I.  on  the  side  next  the  Gour  de  la  Fontaine 
(p.  366).  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  jewel-casket  in  Sevres,  of 
the  time  of  Louis  Philippe.  The  gallery  is  embellished  with  fourteen 
large  compositions  by  Boaso  Rossi  ^  representing  allegorical  and 
mythological  scenes  relating  to  the  history  and  adventures  of  Francis  I. 
The  paintings  are  separated  from  each  other  by  bas-reliefs,  caryat- 
ides, trophies,  and  medallions.  The  salamander,  being  the  king's 
heraldic  emblem,  and  his  initial  F  frequently  recur. 

The  Vestibule  d^Monneur,  between  the  Escalier  du  Fer-li-Cheval 
and  the  Galerie  Francois  ler,  possesses  two  handsome  oaken  doors 
of  the  time  of  Louis  XIII.,  and  four  modem  doors  in  the  same  style. 

—  To  the  left  are  the  Appariemenis  des  Reines  Mhres  and  of  Pius  VII, 
They  were  once  occupied  by  Catherine  de  M^dicis;  by  Anne 
of  Austria  (d.  1666),  mother  of  Louis  XIY. ;  and  afterwards  by 
Pius  YII.,  who  was  a  prisoner  here  from  June,  1812,  to  Jan.,  1814. 

We  pass  through  an  antechamber  with  chairs  and  hangings  in 
Cordovan  leather  and  a  magnificent  Louis  XIII.  chest,  a  second 
antechamber  with  tapestry  (Story  of  Esther)  of  1740,  and  a  room  with 
Gobelins  tapestry  and  furniture  covered  with  stuffs  from  Beauvais,  to 
the  bedroom  of  Anne  of  Austria,  which  is  also  hung  with  Gobelins 
tapestry.  Beyond  this  are  two  small  rooms  (portrait  of  Pius  YII. 
after  David,  in  the  first),  the  pope's  bedroom,  and  two  apartments 
with  Gobelins  tapestry.  We  then  enter  an  antechamber,  with  Sevres 
porcelain,  and  the  *  Galerie  des  Pastes',  so  called  from  a  project  of 
decorating  it  with  paintings  of  the  history  of  Fontainebleau.  It  con- 
tains a  few  ancient  pictures  of  secondary  importance. 

Lastly  we  reach  the  OaUrie  des  Assiettes,  which  is  sometimes 
shown  to  visitors  first.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  quaint  style  in 
which  it  was  decorated  by  order  of  Louis  Philippe  with  plates  of  por-  , 
celain  bearing  views  of  royal  residences,  etc.  It  is  also  called  Oalerie 
desFresques  from  the  frescoes  by  A.  Dubois  which  have  been  trans- 
ferred hither  from  the  Galerie  de  Diane. 

On  the  grouDdtlooi,  to  the  right,  m  Wi^  m».\i  VQS\ftN»:^ *^^  >^ 
*Chine8e  Museum,  open  at  the  same  Yioxii*  ^*  V>^^  '^^^^^-   ^^'^^^^v 
trance  is  in  the  Com  de  la  Fontaine  Qp.  ^^^\  x^^^V^^^s^  v.v^  >fe 


366  21.   FONTAINEBLBAU. 

archway  to  the  right  of  the  Fer-k-Gheyal  staircase.  The  coUection, 
which  is  yaluahle,  was  begun  after  the  French  expedition  to  China 
in  1860. 

Boom  I.  Perfume -censers;  jardiniere  in  cloisonne  enamel  $  liutre^ 
copper  dragons  and  pa^nda;  lacqner  panels ;  elephants*  tasks.  In  ihe  glass- 
cases:  crown  of  the  king  of  Siam;  handsome  ewer.  —  Boom  II.  Wooden 
Sagoda;  valuable  Jewels,  including  a  belt  presented  to  Louis  XV.  by  the 
iamese  ambassadors:  jewel  of  the  order  of  the  elephant;  mandarin''s  collar 
in  jade  This  room  also  contains  statnes  by  Schoenewerk  and  Cordier,  and 
portraits  by  C.  Van  Loo  of  Louis  XV.  and  Maria  ijesczinska.  —  Boom  III. 
Palanquin;  gongs :  weapons  and  armour;  flags. 

Gardeng.  The  principal  entrance  is  by  the  Cour  de  la  Fontaine^ 
to  the  right  of  which  there  is  a  Pond  with  a  pavilion.  The  carp  in  this 
pond  are  still  a  source  of  interest  and  amusement  to  visitors. 

On  the  right  lies  the  Jardin  Anglais,  planted  under  Napoleon  I. 

On  the  left,  beyond  the  pond,  rises  the  Porte  Dorie,  dating  from 
the  reign  of  Francis  I.,  as  the  salamander  in  the  armorial  bearings 
indicates.  It  is  adorned  with  old  frescoes,  now  restored.  This  forms 
one  of  the  entrances  to  the  Cour  Ovale,  or  du  Donjon,  a  court  80  yds. 
long  and  34  yds.  in  width,  the  oldest  in  the  palace.  This  court  has 
undergone  various  alterations  and  has  lost  its  original  form,  but 
is  still  interesting  on  account  of  its  fine  colonnades  of  the  early 
French  Renaissance;  the  capitals  of  the  pillars  are  especially  fine. 
It  is  not  open  to  the  public.  To  the  E.  is  a  curious  gate,  covered 
with  a  dome,  called  the  Porte  Dauphine,  or  the  Baptisthre,  from  the 
fact  that  Louis  XIII.  was  baptised  here.  It  may  be  entered  from 
the  Parterre,  farther  on,  to  the  left.  The  Cour  Henri  IV.,  opposite, 
and  other  portions  of  the  palace  are  now  occupied  by  the  Er,ole  d' Ap- 
plication de  VArtillerie  et  du  0€nie,  removed  hither  from  Metz. 

Beyond  the  pond  is  the  Parterre,  a  second  public  garden,  de- 
signed by  Le  N6tre  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.,  containing  a  square 
pond  and  a  round  one.  Farther  on  is  the  Canal  (1320  yds.  long), 
formed  by  order  of  Henry  IV.,  with  bronze  and  marble  statues  and 
groups  in  front  of  it  To  the  left  is  the  Pork,  with  a  Lahyrvnih  and 
the  famous  Vinery  of  the  palace. 


The  ^Forest  of  Fontainebleau,  which  is  about  50  M.  in  circum- 
ference and  covers  an  area  of  42,600  acres,  is  justly  regarded  as  the 
most  beautiful  in  France.   On  the  N.E.  side  it  is  bounded  by  the 
sinuosities  of  the  Seine.    The  ground  here   is  of  a  very  varied 
character,  the  rock  formation  consisting  chiefly  of  sandstone,  which 
yields  most  of  the  paving  stones  of  Paris.    The  magnificent  timber 
•        and  picturesque  gorges  of  the  forest  afford  numerous  pleasant  walks, 
and  there  are  good  paths  in  every  direction.    The  forest  is  a  favourite 
resort  of  artists,  their  chief  colonies  being  at  Barbison  (p.  368),  to 
the  N.W.,  and  Marlotte  (p.  36H"),  to  t\i^  ^. 

Hie  heat  plan  of  the  forest  is  the  aAmSw^Afe  CcwrU  U>^oQT«s»»^q[^  dfc  ta 
/^r^y  et  des  environs  de  Foniaiwhleaia  {SS\i^x>iM  Beii^couvi  VJ^A«V>J\^ ^\ti^ 
ceiebritj,  who  .pent  a  con8idera.\>\e  P*^  oiYxiamwv^^lW^^vr^^^ 
exploring   and    studying   the  forest,  Mid  to  T%Ti<i.tiTto%  V^^  ^^'^^'^  "V^""**  *^ 


E  mqrrutLr  fu^ 


2i.  FONTAINEBLEAU.  367 

ceMible  by  footpaths.  The  map  in  the  Handbook  is  a  reduced  copy  of 
Deneeourt's.  All  points  where  paths  cross  each  other  are  provided  with 
finger-poMts.  It  should  be  observed  that  the  blue  and  red  marks,  which 
M.  Denecourt  caused  to  be  placed  on  trees  and  rocks,  indicate  the  way 
to  the  most  picturesque  points.  The  small  red  rectangles  are  connected 
with  the  forest  administration,  and  point  in  the  direction  of  the  town.  — 
Those  who  stray  from  the  beaten  paths  should  be  provided  with  ^alcali 
volatir  for  use  in  the  case  of  adder-bites. 

The  finest  point  of  view  near  Fontalneblean  is  the  *Tour  Dene- 
courtj  reached  in  V2  ^r*  ^'om  the  railway-station.  We  ascend  the 
road  to  the  left  at  the  station,  cross  the  railway,  follow  it  to  the 
right,  soon  turning  to  the  left  at  a  laboratory  of  vegetable  biology, 
and  follow  the  broad,  sandy  path,  leading  to  the  height  on  which 
the  tower  is  situated.  This  belvedere  (rfmts.),  built  in  the  form  of  a 
miniature  fortress,  commands  a  picturesque  view  for  nearly  40  miles 
round.  The  Eiffel  Tower  in  Paris  is  seen.  From  Fontainebieau  we 
reach  the  belvedere  in  about  3/4  hr.,  vi&  the  Rue  Grande,  the  Melun 
road,  and  the  (13/4  M.)  Chemin  de  Fontaine-le-Port,  to  the  right, 
where  a  post  indicates  the  way  to  the  Tour  Denecourt  (oomp.  the 
Map).  —  Nearer  the  town,  to  the  right  of  tbe  Melun  road,  is  the  Croix 
du  Calvaire,  commanding  a  ♦View  of  Fontainebieau,  which  is  not 
visible  from  the  Tour  Denecourt.  —  Between  that  road  and  tbe  road 
from  Paris  (see  below)  are  the  Nid  de  VAigle  and  the  Gros  Fouteau, 
two  of  tbe  finest  groups  of  trees  in  the  forest  (1 1/4  M.  from  the  town). 

Visitors  seldom  extend  their  excursion  beyond  the  Roeherf  et 
Oorges  de  Franchard,  21/2  M.  from  the  town  (carr.,  p.  362).  At  tbe 
N.W.  end  of  the  Rue  de  France,  wbich  leads  to  the  right  from  the 
Rue  Grande  at  tbe  tramway- terminus ,  we  follow  the  broad  road 
diverging  to  the  left  ftom  the  highroad  to  Paris  (which  leads  to  the 
Gros  Fouteau  and  the  Nid  de  TAigle,  see  above).  Carriages  turn  to 
the  left  at  the  Route  Ronde.  Pedestrians  quit  the  road  after  8-10 
min.  by  a  bridle-path  to  the  left  (Route  du  Cedre),  which  leads  in 
about  i/2  hr.  to  the  Croix  de  Fraucbard,  Thence  the  carriage-road 
leads  straight  on  in  6  min.  more  to  the  Rettaurant  de  Franchard  (d^j. 
3,  D.  3V2frM  arrange  prices),  the  most  frequented  spot  and  the 
only  restaurant  in  the  Forest. 

The  celebrated  Bochers  et  Oorges  de  Franchard^  a  rocky  basin 
overgrown  with  trees  and  bushes,  about  2i/2  M.  in  circumference, 
begin  about  5  minutes'  walk  to  the  W.,  at  the  Bocher  des  Ermites 
and  the  ^Roche  qui  pUwre\  a  little  beyond  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
monastery  (now  a  forester's  house).  A  forest-flre  in  1897  destroyed 
much  of  the  beauty  of  this  spot,  and  water  no  longer  trickles  from 
this  'weeping  rock'.  The  top  of  the  rock  commands  a  good  survey 
of  the  gorge,  which,  however,  has  lost  some  of  its  picturesqueness 
owing  to  tires  and  the  recent  planting  of  young  pines.  HuttlA^ 
visitors  may  engage  one  of  the  guides  to  \>ft  iw3Liv^\kSkt^>  \a>i^s\.'^  <i-'«x?^ 
to  make  a  distinct  bargain  (usually  i^'^ii.Y  T\i«i  tv&NXq^  ^^'^^^'^  "^^ 
the  town  by  the  same  route.  ^s. 

An  exonrsioD  to  tbe  Gorges  d'Apremont  ml^  V!^^  ^^'^  \X^«s^^^^ 


368  %i.  FONTAINEBLEAU. 

the  neigliboariag  Bas-BrSau  is  not  less  interesting  than  the  abOTS 
(comp.  the  Map).  It  requires  4-5  hrs.  from  Fontainehlean  and  ahont 
1  hr.  less  from  the  Gorges  de  Franchard.  Between  the  Rochers 
d'Apremont  and  the  Monts  Oircurd,  another  chain  of  hills,  extends 
the  Dormoir,  a  plain  partly  wooded,  and  partly  covered  with  rocks 
and  heath,  one  of  the  most  heantifal  parts  of  the  forest,  and  a  fa- 
vourite sporting -rendezTons.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  Gorges 
d^Apremont  is  situated  the  Caveme  dts  Brigands^  said  once  to  have 
been  the  haunt  of  bandits.  The  man  who  lives  in  a  rustic  hut  here 
sells  refreshments  at  high  prices ,  and  also  souvenirs  of  the  forest. 
Farther  to  the  N.  is  the  highroad  to  Paris,  already  mentioned,  which 
leads,  in  the  direction  of  Fontainebleau ,  past  the  Hauteun  de  la 
SoUe  to  the  Oros  Fouteau  (p.  367),  etc.  —  The  Bas-Br^au  is  near 
the  terminus  of  the  steam-tramway  from  Melun  to  Barbison  (p.  361). 
—  Barbison  (H6tel  de  la  Foret ;  H6t  des  Artistes,  with  a  dining- 
room  containing  wall-paintings  by  various  artists;  Hdt.  de  T Ex- 
position; pens.  6-8  fr.),  about  3/4  M.  to  the  W.,  was  a  favourite 
resort  of  Th.  Rousseau  and  Millet,  bronze  relief-busts  of  whom,  by 
ChapUj  have  been  let  into  a  rock  in  the  vicinity.  It  still  eontalns  a 
colony  of  artists.   Tramway  to  Melun  (see  p.  361). 

Among  the  interesting  points  in  the  S.  part  of  the  forest  may  be 
mentioned  the  Rocher  d'Avon^  near  the  palace-park,  between  the 
road  to  Moret  and  that  to  Marlotte,  and  the  Oorge  aux  Loups  and  the 
Long-Rocher,  near  the  verge  of  the  forest.  —  The  village  of  Mar- 
lotte (H6tel  Mallet,  pens.  6-8  fr.),  3/^  M.  farther  on  and  5V3  M. 
from  Fontainebleau,  is,  like  Barbison,  a  favourite  resort  of  artists. 
The  nearest  station  is  Montigny^  on  the  line  to  Montargis,  3/4  M. 
to  the  E.,  whence  we  may  return  to  Fontainebleau  vi&  Moret,  — 
About  3/4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Marlotte,  and  also  near  the  forest,  is 
Bourron  (H6t.  de  la  Paix,  pens.  6''fr.),  suitable  for  a  stay  of  some 
time,  with  a  station  at  the  junction  of  the  lines  from  Montarg:is 
and  Malesherbes.  —  For  Morety  see  Baedeker^a  Northern  France. 

22.  Chantilly  and  its  Environs. 
I.  From  Paris  to  Chantilly. 

251/2  M.  Chemin  de  Feb  du  Kobd  (station,  PL  B,24;  see  p.  26),  in  40-75 
min.  (fares  4  fr.  60,  3  fr.  10  c. ,  2  fr. ;  return- tickets  6  fr.  90,  4  fr.  95, 
3  fr.  25  c).  Excnrsion  retnm-ticket«  are  also  issued  (ticket-o£Bc6  No.  21) 
on  the  days  when  the  chateau  is  open,  for  6  fr.  40,  4  fr.  90,  2  fr.  80  c. ; 
hut  they  are  available  for  certain  trains  only. 

As  the  chateau  at  Chantilly  is  open  only  on  Sun.,  Thurs.,  A  Sat.  after- 
noon, those  who  wish  to  combine  with  this  excursion  visits  to  points  in 
the  valley  of  the  Oise  (B.  19)  must  begin  with  the  latter.  Includine  the 
return  via  filenlis  and  a  visit  to  Ermcnonville,  two  days  are  required. 

From  Paris  to  (41/2  M.^  St.  Denw,  «ife^  ^,  S34.   Branch-line  to 
Enghien  fMontmorency,  St.  l.e\i,  ^U.?^,  a^^^.^^^.  '^iwA.^Qm^^taI 
of  St.  Denis  Tp.  201^  rise  t\ie  Fort  du  Nord  wv\\:t^^Fw\  ^Vx^tSitVa, 
~7M.  Pierrefitte-Stai'M .    Bevoii^  YVeTt^^^X^^  Na  ^^^  ^'^'^^  ^*  ^"^ 


22.   CHANTILLY.  369 

fortified  Butte  PinQonj  occupied  by  the  Germans  in  1870-71.  To 
the  right,  farther  on,  is  the  fort  of  Stains  or  Garges. 

91/2  M.  ViUierS'le-Bel'Oonesse,  ViUiera-U-Bel,  2  M.  from  the 
station,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam-tramway  (30  c), 
lies  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  Ecouen  (p.  347)  and  IV4  M.  from 
Sarcelles-St-Brice  (p.  348).  A  tramway  also  runs  hence  to  (IV2  M.) 
6one««e,  which  has  a  fine  church  of  the  12-13th  centuries.  — 12^2  M. 
Oouasainville,  —  15  M.  Louvret.  —  19  M.  Survilliers. 

A  diligence  (1  fr.)  plies  hence  to  Kortefontaine  (ff6t.  de  la  Providence), 
a  village  41/2  M.  to  the  E.,  with  a  Chdteau  and  fine  Park,  which  belonged 
at  one  time  to  Joseph  Bonaparte.  Visitors  are  admitted  on  Sun.  to  the 
chief  portion  of  the  park,  called  Domaine  de  Vallieres,  now  separated  from 
the  old  chateau.  Mortefontaine  is  6  H.  from  Ermenonville  (p.  379),  8  M. 
from  Senlis  (p.  377),  and  9Vs  M.  from  Ghantilly  (see  below). 

The  train  now  enters  the  Forest  of  Coye.  —  22^/2  M.  Orry-Coye, 
li/4M.  from  Orry-Za-FiM«  (omnibus)  to  the  S.E.,  and  I3/4  M.  from 
Coye,  to  the  N.W.  From  the  station  we  may  walk  through  the  wood 
to  (15-20  min.)  the  Etang  de  la  Reine-Blanche  (p.  376;  comp.  the 
Map),  and  thence  to  Chantilly. 

The  train  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Thh)e  by  a  handsome  stone 
Viaduct  of  15  arches,  330  yds.  long,  and  130  ft.  high,  commanding 
a  fine  view.  To  the  right  are  the  Etang  and  the  Chdteau  de  la  Reine- 
Blanche  (p.  376).  Farther  on  the  train  enters  the  Forest  of  Chan- 
tilly (p.  376).  —  To  the  right,  as  we  reach  (26 V2  M.)  Chantilly,  we 
notice  the  extensive  siding  for  the  special  trains  on  race-days. 

25 Y2  M.  Chantilly.  —  Hotels.  Hotel-Restaurant  dd  GBASD-CoNDft, 
on  the  !N.  side  of  the  racecourse,  R.  from  6,  B.  IV2,  ddj.  with  wine  5, 
D.  with  wine  7,  omn.  1  fr.  5  H6tel  d^Anoletxxbe,  Grande  Rue  and  Rue 
de  Paris,  d6].  or  D.  6fr.  ^  Lion  d'Ob,  Grande  Rue  44;  Lefobt,  Place  de 
rHospice-Gond^ ,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Grande  Rue,  less  pretending; 
Petit-Louis,  A.venue  de  la  Gare  21;  de  la  Gabb,  du  Nobd,  opposite  the 
station.  All  these  hotels,  though  most  of  them  are  small,  claim  to  be  of 
the  first  class;  visitors  therefore  should  ascertain  prices  beforehand.  — 
Gafes.     Ca/4  de  Paris,  Rue  de  Paris;  others  at  the  station. 

Gabs  should  be  engaged  only  after  a  distinct  arrangement  as  to  fare. 
The  drivers  usually  demand  li/s  fr.  to  the  town,  and  3  fr.  to  the  chateau, 
which  is  10  min.  drive  from  the  station. 

Post  and  Tbleokaph  Office  heside  the  Hotel  de  Ville. 

English  Chdbch  (St.  Peters);  chaplain,  Rev.  George  H.  Moxon.  — 
Wesleyan  Chapel  ,  Grande  Rue.  —  Institute  for  English  Stable  Boys  (of 
whom  there  are  600  at  Chantilly). 

Chantilly,  a  town  with  4211  inhab.,  was  famous  especially  iu 
the  17th  and  18th  cent,  as  the  residence  of  the  Gond^s.  The  town 
presents  a  thronged  and  fashionable  scene  during  the  race-meetings, 
which  are  held  in  May  and  October.  It  contains  large  establishments 
for  the  breeding  of  race-horses,  in  connection  with  which  a  con- 
siderable English  colony  has  settled  in  the  town.  The  silk  lace  to 
which  the  name  of  Ghantilly  is  given  is  now  made  chiefly  in  tke 
department  of  Galvados. 

Quitting  the  atation,  we  cross  tbe  Paiia  wi^  k3Si\cisa»  ^^^^^  ^^sNsi^ 
leads,  to  the  left,  to  the  Grande  Bue.   iLs  t\iei  ^^^^'»^^'^^"'?vC\'^'^:\ 
tains  nothing  noteworthy^   we  may  pxoce©^  ».t  oiv^e^  ^^  ^^  ^>  ^^     ' 
Basdsjubm.  PaHa.  14th  Edit.  ^^ 


370  22.  CHANTILLY. 

Chateau,  by  the  Route  do  Bois-Bourillon  (beyond  the  *barriSre'  op- 
posite the  Rne  de  la  Gare),  which  brings  us  in  i/4  hr.  to  the  Pelousey 
or  racecourse,  about  125  acres  in  area,  lying  between  the  forest 
and  the  town.  To  the  right  we  see  the  Grand  Stands^  to  the  left, 
farther  on,  the  Stables  (p.  375).  —  The  Avenue  de  I'Aigle,  which 
leads  from  the  station  behind  the  Grand  Stands,  is  an  alternative 
and  easier  route  (comp.  the  Map). 

The  *Chfi.teaa,  separated  from  the  racecourse  by  a  small  arti- 
ficial lake,  consists  of  two  main  divisions :  the  Chdtelet  or  CapitainerUj 
built  about  1560,  probably  by  Jean  Bullant,  close  to  the  border  of 
the  lake,  and  the  Orand  Chdteau,  behind  the  latter,  erected  in  1876- 
lBb2  (see  below).  Separated  from  the  Chateau  proper  by  a  broad 
slope  leading  to  the  park  is  the  Chdteau  d'Enghien^  a  heavy-looking 
erection  of  the  18th  cent.,  built  to  accommodate  the  numerous 
guests  of  the  Cond^s.  —  A  visit  to  the  chateau  with  its  valuable 
contents,  known  as  the  Music  Condi^  is  one  of  the  moat  interesting 
excursions  from  Paris,  and  should  on  no  account  be  omitted  if  time 
permit.  The  Chatbau  is  open  only  between  1  and  5  p.m.  on  Sun. 
and  Thurs.  (free)  and  Sat.  (1  fr.),  from  April  16th  to  Oct.  15th, 
with  the  exception  of  race-days  and  of  certain  other  days  devoted 
to  cleaning.  Director,  M,  J.  A,  Gruyer.  Guide  ('itin^raire')  for  the 
chdteau  and  park  75  c. ;  catalogue  of  the  paintings  11/2  ^'m  illustrated 
edition  6-8  fr.  —  The  Park  is  open  on  Sun.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  all 
the  year  round  (except  race- days),  but  only  from  1  to  4  (winter)  or 
5.30  p.m.  (summer).   Dogs  are  not  admitted. 

The  history  of  the  medieeval  castle  of  Ghantilly  dates  back  to  the 
9th  century.  In  1495  it  came  by  inheritance  to  the  Montmorency  family 
(p.  348),  and  the  Constable  Anne  de  Montmorency  (149M567),  wbo  shared 
the  campait^ns  and  the  artistic  tastes  of  Francis  I.,  employed  Pierre  Cham- 
bigee  (p.  xlii)  to  erect  a  chateau  in  its  place,  to  which  the  Chatelet  (see 
above)  was  afterwards  added.  Duke  Henry  of  Montmorency,  Anne*s  grand- 
son, was  executed  in  1632  for  his  connection  with  the  rebellions  duke  of 
Orleans,  and  his  possessions  passed  to  his  brother-in-law,  Prince  Henry  II. 
of  Bourbon- Conde.  Under  Louis  II.  of  Condi  (1621-86),  known  as  the  'Grand 
Cond^'  for  his  wit  as  well  as  for  his  warlike  exploits  in  Alsace,  theKether- 
land<),  and  S.  Germany ,  Chantilly  became  the  scene  of  maeniflcent  fStes, 
which  were  suspended  by  tue  banishment  of  Gond^  in  1654  for  his  com- 
plicity in  the  war  of  the  Fronde,  only  to  be  renewed  with  fresh  aplendonr 
after  his  return  in  1660.  Mme.  de  86\ign4  in  her  letters  deccribea  the 
gorgeous  reception  given  here  to  Louis  XIV.  in  1671.  Embellished  by 
Mansart  and  surrounded  by  a  park  laid  out  by  Le  Ndtre  in  1663,  Ghan- 
tilly at  this  time  rivalled  the  most  sumptuous  royal  palaces,  while  Bacine, 
Voltaire,  La  Fontaine,  F^nelon,  and  Boileau  were  amongst  its  most  fre- 
quent euests.  Ot  the  buildings  planned  by  Louis  Henry  oy  Bourbon  Condi 
(1692-1740),  minister  of  Louis  XV.,  only  tbe  stables  (p.  875)  were  com- 
pleted. Ihe  Gbiteau  d'Enghien  dates  from  the  time  of  his  son  Louis  Joseph 
(1736-1818).  During  tbe  Revolution,  the  Grand  Ghateau  was  demolif^hed. 
The  beir  of  the  last  of  the  Gondi'S,  who  died  in  1830,  was  JSfenK,  Jhtc 
d'Aumale  ('/822-97 ;  fourth  son  oi  Lowia  "e\i\\l^vft")-i  to  whom  a  decree  of  the 
Kmional  Assembly  in  187^  Rave  b&c\L  Wi^  -^xv^^wVj  ^^NAiSaXv  he  had  beeft 
deprived  during  the  Second  F.mviTe.  Tift  t^\)L%«^V\ife'^T%a«^\.Qrw».^^aia^a««. 

H^ith  ita  magiiflcent  coUecti-nft  lo  t\^e  \iaa\.V^u\. ^.^^t^tv^^,  ^1^ ^^T^^^».SSMX 
it  should  be  open  to  tlie  public. 


Pont 


Cliate  au 

CHANTIUY 

1:1200 

in   .  go  sa 


SeiHU 


t  Ikrtjtiile  dtiJ6is&e  15  iSantuaru;} 


1G  Otfjinet  dv 
ii|17  AnHiAitmhn^ 


"^a^i^ 


22.  CHANTILLY.  371 

The  Entrance  Gate  ('grille  d'honneur';  oomp.  Plan)  is  preceded 
l)y  a  bridge  spanning  a  moat  filled  with  ancient  carp.  Thence  we 
ascend  a  slope  to  a  raised  terrace,  on  which  is  a  bronze  equestrian 
statue,  by  P.  Dubois,  of  the  ConstahU  Anne  de  Montmorency  (p.  370). 
To  the  right  and  left  are  bronze  dogs  and  stags,  by  Cain. 

The  Porte  de  la  Herse,  on  the  left,  which  is  flanked  by  reproduc- 
tions of  Michael  Angelo's  'Slaves'  (p.  104),  admits  us  to  the  Cour 
d^Eonneurj  where  we  are  confronted  by  the  Peristyle,  the  entrance 
to  the  building.  Beyond  the  peristyle,  where  umbrellas,  etc.,  are 
given  up,  we  enter  the  Gkand  Vbstibulb  (PI.  1),  to  the  left  of 
which  is  the  grand  staircase  (p.  374)  j  the  Ohatelet  is  In  front,  and 
the  Grand  Chateau,  with  the  principal  collections,  on  the  right. 
We  ascend  the  steps  to  the  last. 

Orand  Clifcteaa.  Galebtb  dbs  Cbrfb  or  Dining  Room ,  de- 
corated with  eight  *Tapestries  of  the  17th  cent.,  after  Van  Orley  ('the 
Hunts  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian').  Above  the  flre-place  and  the 
doors :  540.  St.  Hubert,  537.  Venus,  538.  Diana,  by  Baudry. 

•PiCTXJBB  Gallery,  to  the  right.  To  the  right  and  left  of  the 
door:  Stag-hunt,  by  Barye,  Boar-hunt  by  Whne  (bronzes).  Paintings. 
Poussin,  298.  Infancy  of  Bacchus ,  302.  Landscape  with  nymphs. 
Above  the  door,  63.  Carracci,  Sleeping  Venus.  Then  to  the  right: 
515.  Meissonier,  Cuirassiers  (1805);  ^545.  A.  deNeuville,  Skirmish 
on  a  railway  (1870);  •528.  J?Vomcntirj,  Hawking;  375.  Nattier,  Mile, 
de  Clermont  at  the  mineral  springs  of  Chantilly;  604.  J.  Dupre, 
Sunset;  426.  Qirard,  The  three  ages;  428.  Qros,  Bonaparte  in  the 
plague-hospital  at  Jaffa  (sketch  for  the  picture  in  the  Louvre); 
476.  Decamps,  Turkish  children  at  a  fountain;  •456.  Delacroix, 
The  Foscari;  809,  308.  De  Champaigne,  Mazarin,  Richelieu;  474. 
Decamps,  Turkish  sentinel;  448.  Corot,  Open-air  concert;  395. 
Drouais,  Marie  Antoinette  as  Hebe;  145.  Sir  J,  Reynolds,  Philippe 
Egalit6,  Duke  of  Orleans,  father  of  Louis  Philippe  (comp.  p.  215); 
383.  Lancret,  Luncheon-party  ('dejeuner  de  jambon').  —  On  the 
left  wall,  beginning  at  the  entrance:  301.  Poussin,  Landscape  with 
Numa  Porapilius  and  the  nymph  Egeria;  ^35.  Palma  Vecchio,  Ma- 
donna with  SS.  Peter  and  Jerome  (1600);  40.  Penni,  Madonna  of 
Loretto  (after  a  lost  original  by  Raphael);  305.  Poussin,  Massacre  of 
the  Innocents;  ^59.  Scipione  Oaetano,  Portrait '^  17.  Francia, 
Annunciation;  32.  Titian,  Ecce  Homo;  9.  8ienese  Master  of  the 
Hythcent.,  Dancing  angels;  366.  De  Trot/,  Luncheon-party  ('de'jeuner 
d'huitres').  —  At  the  end  of  the  picture-gallery  is  the  Rotunda  (PI.  2), 
in  the  TourSenlis.  The  floor  is  paved  with  mosaic  from  Herculaneum. 
The  *Ceiling  Painting,  the  last  work  of  Baudry,  represents  the  Apothe- 
osis of  Psyche.  By  the  window,  Joan  of  Arc,  by  Chapu^  aYe^\\?.^^^ 
the  marble  statue  mentioned  at  p.  257.  TlLft -s^^Wa  ^"t^^^^^%^*^^^ 
water-colours  and  drawings  by  Meissonier  (bV^"A^  l>elacTo\x^  Dtcorcxv^^ 
C483-485h  Marilhat  (b(^i\  Ostade,  Wattcau,  Ru-y^d.ael  VV^^^  ^ 
Bembrandt.  iOS.Oilio  the  Great (RIiem8limm\a\.TiLte^^^^>^^*^^''^'^       *^' 


372  22.  CHANTILLY, 

The  Vestibule  du  Mus]§b  (PL  3),  to  the  left  of  the  picture-gallery 
as  we  quit  the  Rotonda,  contains  three  bronze  Japanese  vases.  — 
Galebib  dxi  Loois  (PI.  4).  Portrait-drawings,  chiefly  of  the  16th 
cent. ,  including  specimens  of  Lagneau,  Dumoustier,  Nanteuil  and 
De  Champaigne,  The  Petite  Galbbie  du  Loots  (PL  5),  parallel 
with  the  last,  also  contains  drawings  (by  JBi^owd,  Oudry,  Van  Loo, 
Greuze,  Jsabey,  J.B.Huety  and  Guerin),  besides  ivory-carvings  and 
coins.  —  Vbstibulb  du  Loois  (PL  6).  Drawings  by  Raphael  (Monk ; 
three  heads  from  the  cartoon  of  the  Calling  of  Peter,  now  in  London), 
Leonardo  da  Vm^d  (alleged  cartoon  of  the  Gioconda,  p.  115),  Peru- 
ginOj  Giulio  Bomano,  and  Tiepolo.  Bust  of  the  Due  d^Anmale,  by 
Dubois  (1896). 

Salle  db  La  Smalah  (PL  7;  comp.  p.  314),  to  the  left.  Drawings 
and  water-colours  of  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Due  d'Aumale ; 
157.  Lawrence^  Francis  II.  of  Austria;  331.  Detaille,  Major  Lepic  at 
Eylau  (1807).  —  Salle  db  la  Minebve  (PL  8),  in  the  E.  tower 
(Tour  du  Connitahle).  Central  Glass  Case:  *Minerva  (to  the  right), 
Dancing  Satyr,  Jupiter,  three  Greek  bronzes;  Vase  from  Nola; 
Tanagra  figurines;  coins.  Six  panels  with  Cupids,  by  Baudry, 
Drawings  by  *Prudhon  (frieze  of  the  seasons),  Poussm,  Ingres,  etc. 
—  Cabinet  des  Antiques  (PL  9).  Three  large  Greek  bronze  vases ; 
articles  found  at  Pompeii;  water-colours  and  drawings.  —  Cabinet 
DU  Giotto  (PL  10).  Small  Italian  paintings,  including  1.  Giotto, 
Death  of  the  Virgin;  14.  Rosselli,  Madonna.  —  Salle  Isabelle 
(PL  11).  Landscapes  by  Ruysdael  (138),  Van  de  Velde  (140),  Th. 
Bousseau  (506),  Daubigny  (519),  Dupre  (503),  etc.  Paintings  by 
Decamps,  Delacroix  (457),  Ingres  (434.  Francesca  da  Bimini),  0£- 
rome  (533.  Duel  after  the  masked  ball),  Meissorder  (514),  etc. 

Salon  d'Obl^ans  (PL  12).  Collection  of  drawings  and  engrav- 
ings in  portfolios,  including  about  600  portraits  of  the  16th  cent., 
480  by  Carmontelle  (18th  cent.),  and  600  drawings  by  Raffei.  On 
the  walls:  552.  Bonnat,  Portrait  of  the  Due  d'Aumale  in  1880;  521. 
Jalabert,  Marie  Amflie,  wife  of  Louis  Philippe ;  554.  Mile.  Cogniet, 
Adelaide  of  Orleans,  sister  of  Louis  Philippe ;  several  Italian  paint- 
ings. —  Salle  Cabolinb  (PL  13).  Portraits  of  the  Orleans  and 
Cond^  families,  'by  Mignard,  Largillilre(S3i.  Elizabeth  Charlotte  of 
the  Palatinate),  Nattier,  etc.  Also:  136.  Van Everdingen,  Tempest; 
Greuze,  394.  Surprise,  391,  393.  Heads;  371,  372.  SmaU  works  by 
Watteau.  —  Cabinet  Clouet  (PL  14).  Chiefly  portraits,  including  * 
works  by  Aldegrever  (HA.  Himself),  F.  Pourbus  (122.  Henri  IV.), 
Mierevelt,  Teniers  (130.  The  Grand  Cond^,  1653),  Le  Nain,  Francois 
and  Jean  Clouet,  Barth.  de  Bruyn  (113.  Catharine  von  Bora),  and 
Jfme.  Vigie-Lebrun,  —  We  then  pass  through  the  door  on  the  right, 
CT08S  the  picture  gallerV,  and  entei  t\ift  — 

Galebib  vB  Psyohb.    •Stivnft^-^Va.a^^^^^^^^VsEc^^^^^*^^^^ 
trating  the  story  of  Cupid  and  Ps^clie,  li^TSi  ^^  ^^\«is.  W  ^V 
ApuIeius,inU  designs  executed  in  Vb4V-aioT\\i^^>^^v.'^^^^^«^^^^'« 


22.  CHANTILLY.  373 

after  cartoons  of  the  School  of  Raphael  (Michael  Coxie?).  The  in- 
scriptions are  copied  on  the  adjoining  walls.  On  the  opposite  wall 
are  numerons  portraits  of  the  16 -17th  cent.,  and  drawings  by 
Oiulio  Romano^  Raphael,  and  Van  Dyek.  Also  a  copy  after  Michael 
Angeto's  Last  Judgment.  At  the  end,  wax  bust  of  Henri  IV.,  by 
G.Dupri  (iHO). 

*Santuaeio  (pi.  15),  the  small  room  to  the  right.  **39.  Raphael, 
*Madonna  of  the  Origans  family',  in  admirable  preservation  (1506) ; 
♦19.  FilippinoLippi,  Esther  and  Ahasuerus,  a  panel  from  a  marriage- 
chest;  ♦SB.  Raphad,  The  Three  Graces,  a  small  work,  purchased  for 
645,000  fr.  in  1885;  •201-240.  Jean  Fouquet,  Foity  miniatures 
from  a  book  of  hours,  painted  in  1452-60  for  Estienne  Chevalier, 
treasurer  of  France  under  Charles  VII. 

•Oabinbt  op  Gbmb  (PI.  16),  in  the  Tour  du  Tresor,  at  the  end 
of  the  Galerie  dePsychtf.  The  glass-cases  contain  enamels,  miniatures, 
porcelain,  fayence,  medals,  goldsmiths'  work,  jewellery,  weapons, 
and  historical  relics.  Case  lxv  :  •Cross  firom  the  treasure  of  Bale 
(15th  cent.);  *Mon8trance  from  Braga,  in  Portugal  (16th  cent.)  ;  five 
enamelled  plates  by  Pierre  Courtois  and  a  cup  by  L.  Limousin.  Table 
Case  at  the  central  windows :  *Rose  diamond,  known  as  the  *Grand 
Cond^';  Abd-el-Kader's  dagger,  etc.  —  To  the  right  we  enter  the  — 

*Tribtjnb.  At  the  top  of  the  walls  are  views  of  the  various  seats 
of  the  Due  d'Aumale.  Paintings,  beginning  to  the  left:  158.  8.  W. 
Reynolds,  Bridge  of  Sevres;  •146.  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  Lady 
Waldegrave  and  child;  450.  P.  Delaroche,  Assassination  of  the 
Duke  of  Guise;  ♦446.  AryScheffer,  Talleyrand  (1828);  E.  Dela- 
croix ,  Sketch  for  the  painting  of  the  Crusaders  (p.  132).  —  300. 
Poussin,  Theseus  finding  his  father's  sword ;  Watteau,  370.  Pastoral, 
369.  Cupid  disarmed;  310.  P.  de  Cftarnpaiyne,  .Abbess  Angelica 
Arnaud  (p.  125) ;  125.  Van  Dyek,  Gaston  de  France,  Duke  of  Or- 
leans; 314.  Mignard,  Mazarin.  — 36.  Mazxolino,  Ecce  Homo;  24. 
Luini ,  Salvator  Mundi ;  3.  Lorenzo  di  Niccolo ,  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin;  15.  Perugino,  Madonna  between  SS.  Jerome  and  Peter; 
♦107,  108.  Memling,  Jeanne  de  France  and  Crucifixion  (a  diptych) ; 
10.  Pietro  di  Sano^  Mystic  marriage  of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi  to 
Chastity,  Poverty,  and  Obedience.  —  29.  Filippino  Lippi  or  Botti- 
celli, Madonna;  ^13.  PoMajuo^o,  Simonetta  Vespucci ;  11.  Filippo 
Lippi ^  Madonna  and  saints;  i04i.  Flemish  School  (J.  vanEyck?), 
Portraits;  16.  Botticelli,  Autumn;  106.  Flemish  School  of  the  15th 
cent.  (Dierick  Bouts?),  Translation  of  the  shrine  of  St.  Perpetua 
(1466);  ♦lOS.  Flemish  School  of  the  15th  cent.  (Rogier  van  der 
Weyden,  Van  der  Goes ,  or  Memling  ?),  Antony  of  JBurgundy,  half- 
brother  of  Charles  the  Bold;  *SiS.  Mignard.,  Mo\\^i^\lx\gte.^^^Si^. 
Portrait  of  himself,  433,  Venus  AnadyomeTiei,  i^^'i.^X.x^XftTvNsA..^^- 
Mme.  Devangay-  425.  Oirard ,  Bonapaxte  a.^  1Jvt^\.  ^o^^^^iS.,  —  ^*^^- 
ffolbeinrv,  Bugenhagen-,  portraits  \)y  Ft.  Clouel,  e\.c.  .  ^ 

We  now  return  to  the  Grand  Vestibule,  au^  tvjLtwVw?,^.^  ^^^  ^^ 


374  22.  CHANTILLY. 

enter  the  Chfcteleti  or  the  Appartement  de  M,  U  Prince,  —  Aittb- 
OHAMBBK  (PI.  17):  378,  379.  Hunting-scenes,  hy  Oudry;  380,  381. 
Dogs,  by  Deaportes;  147.  Hunting-scene,  hy  Hackert.  To  the  left 
a  cabinet  with  a  mineralogical  collection  presented  in  1774  by 
Gustavus  III.  of  Sweden.  At  the  end,  Chinese  and  French  porce- 
lain and  stoneware.  —  Sallb  des  Gardes  (Pi.  18).  At  the  entrance, 
•126,  *127.  Portraits  by  Van  Dyck;  132.  Portrait  of  the  Grand  Oond6, 
by  J.  van  Egmont ;  four  *Portraits  in  enamel  by  Lionard  Limousin. 
The  glass-cases  at  the  sides  contain  old  flags,  weapons,  and  souvenirs. 
Over  the  fireplace,  Bape  of  Europa,  a  mosaic  from  Herculaneum. 
The  furniture  in  this  and  several  of  the  other  rooms  is  upholstered 
in  valuable  'Beauvais  tapestry.  —  Bbdboom  (PI,  19),  with  decorative 
paintings  by  J.  B.  Euet  and  Rebell;  *Gommode  by  Riesener^  with 
bronze  decorations  by  Servieu.  —  Grand  Gabinbt  (PI.  20).  Fur- 
niture of  the  18th  cent.,  with  Beauvais  tapestry ;  bronze  equestrian 
statuette  of  the  Grand  Cond^,  by  Frimiet.  —  Salon  dbs  Singes 
(PI.  21),  so  called  from  the  decorative  paintings  of  apes,  etc.,  at- 
tributed to  Chr,  Huet. 

Galerie  dxi  Prince.  361-363.  Paintings  by  S.Lecomte,  illustrat- 
ing the  battles  of  the  Grand  Cond.4  (1686-92;  inscriptions).  In  the 
centre  is  a  trophy  of  arms,  with  a  portrait  (No.  307;  by  SteUd)  and 
a  medallion  (by  Coyzevox)  of  the  prince  (1686).  The  banner  was 
taken  at  Rocroi  (1643)  and  is  the  oldest  military  trophy  in  France. 
Statuettes ;  busts. 

Library,  entered  from  the  antechamber  (see  above).  The  gallery 
contains  about  13,000  volumes.  Some  of  the  most  interesting  MSS. 
are  exhibited  in  Case  16 :  near  the  middle.  Breviary  of  Queen  Jeanne 
d'Evreux  (ca.  1330);  below.  Psalter  of  St.  Louis  (1214);  Heures  of 
the  Due  de  Berri  (ca.  1395) ;  also  fine  bindings.  On  the  chimney- 
piece  is  a  terracotta  bust  of  the  Grand  Cond^,  by  Coyzevox, 

To  the  S.  of  the  Grand  Vestibule  is  the  Grand  Staircase  (PL  22), 
descending  to  the  groundfloor,  which  is  not  shown:  iron  and  copper 
balustrade,  of  admirable  workmanship,  by  the  brothers  Moreau; 
two  Gobelins  tapestries  (Jason  and  the  bull,  after  De  Troy,  and  a 
Pastoral,  after  Boucher)  \  four  light-holders  by  Chapu,  The  ceiling- 
painting,  representing  Hope,  is  by  MaUlart,  —  Gallery  leading 
TO  THE  Chapel  (PI.  23):  to  the  right,  two  antique  chasubles  and 
two  antique  dalmatics ;  to  the  left,  drawings  by  Lurer,  Domenichino, 
Sel).  del  Piomhoj  and  Raphael.  —  The  — 

*Ghafel,  a  sumptuous  structure  in  the  Renaissance  style,  con- 
tains an  altar  by  Jean  Bullant  and  Jean  Ooujon,  brought  from  the 
Chateau  d'Ecouen,  and  embellished  with  a  marble  relief  of  Abra- 
ham 'a  offeiing.   The  inlaid  panelling  (partly  dating  from  1548)  and 
the  stained  glass  (1644),  Tepieaeiv^ii^^  Wi^lwsAV^  of  the  Constable 
Anne,  were  also  brought  iiom  tk^  CVi^X-ft^u  ^^<»ixi«^«  \\i^<6k«^%<i 
(Tout  de  Ja  Chapelle^  behind  t\ie  alto  \s  \\ifem%.w^Q\«v«s^  ^i;^^^tv^. 
de  Cond^,  father  of  the  GiaM  ColY^^,^i^  j.  SatTa*m,^V^'^\.x^^i* 


22.  OHANTILLY.  375 

statues  or  groups  and  13  bas-reliefs  (1662);  at  the  back  is  a  cippus 
containing  the  hearts  of  several  princes  of  Condtf. 

The  ♦Park  (adm.,  see  p.  370)  was  laid  out  by  Le  N6tre,  who 
afterwards  designed  the  gardens  of  Versailles  in  the  same  style,  and 
is  embellished  with  numerous  statues  and  ornamental  pieces  of 
water.  The  chief  of  the  latter  is  the  Canal  de  la  Manche,  formed  by 
the  Nonette.  A  good  view  of  the  central  parts  of  the  park  is  obtained 
from  the  terrace  beside  the  statue  of  Anne  de  Montmorency  (p.  371). 

To  the  E.  of  the  terrace  we  enter  the  'Pare  de  Silvie',  with  its 
numerous  shady  avenues  affording  beautiful  vistas.  In  about  8  min. 
from  the  terrace  (guide-boards)  we  reach  the  charming  little  Maison 
de  SUvie^  which  contains  portraits,  tapestries,  furniture,  hunting- 
scenes,  etc. ;  also  two  paintings  from  the  history  of  the  house,  by 
0.  Merson. 

The  poet  TMopMU  de  Viau  (1590-1626),  condemned  to  death  in  1623, 
was  here  concealed  by  llarie  Felice  des  IJrsins,  Duchess  of  Montmorency, 
whom  he  afterwards  celebrated  in  his  verses  under  the  name  of  *Silvie\ 
The  house,  whiih  was  restored  by  the  Grand  Gond^  in  1684,  was  the  scene 
of  the  romantic  amours  of  Mile,  de  Clermont  and  M.  de  Melun ,  who  was 
killed  by  a  stag  while  hunting  in  1724. 

Thence  we  proceed  in  a  N.  direction,  crossing  the  Canal  des 
Morfondus,  to  (8  min.)  the  Hamlet ^  resembling  the  Petit-Trianon  at 
Versailles ;  during  the  last  quarter  of  the  18th  cent,  this  was  the 
scene  of  many  rustic  fetes.  —  The  portion  of  the  park  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Canal  de  la  Manche,  with  the  little  chateaux  of  La  Nonette 
and  8t,  Firmin  and  the  'Vertugadin*,  is  not  accessible  to  the  public. 

"We  follow  the  S.  bank  of  the  Canal  des  Morfondus  to  the  central 
part  of  the  park,  with  a  circular  basin  round  which  are  placed  the 
best  statues  in  the  park:  Le  Notre  and  Moli^re,  by  T.  Noel;  Bos- 
suet,  by  Guillaume  ,•  Condtf,  by  Coyzevox ;  La  Bruyfere,  by  Thomas ; 
Bacchus  and  Hebe,  by  Deseinej  Pluto  and  Proserpine,  by  Chapuj 
Grand  Conde,  by  Coyzevox. 

Le  N6tre'8  park  originally  extended  on  the  W.  as  far  as  the  town 
of  Chantilly,  but  about  1820  an  English  Garden  was  laid  out  here, 
presenting  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  other  parts  of  the  park.  It  in* 
eludes  a  Temple  of  Venus,  an  Island  of  Cupid,  and  other  erections 
of  the  18th  century.  In  this  direction  (placards)  is  a  building  known 
as  the  Jeu  de  Paume  (1757),  which  contains  a  considerable  number 
of  paintings,  drawings,  and  sculptures;  tapestries;  gala  carriages; 
military  souvenirs ;  Abd-el-Kader's  tent  (comp.  p.  314) ;  two  leaden 
dogs  brought  from  Orleans  House  at  Twickenham,  referred  to  by 
Pope  in  his  poem  'The  Alley';  and  other  curiosities.  — After  3.30  p.m. 
visitors  may  quit  the  park  by  the  adjoining  gate. 

Immediately  outside  is  the  Porte  St.  Denis,  an  unfinished  gate- 
way, through  which  we  enter  the  main  atiftet  oi  ^^  \ft^^.  ^^s^^^  "^^ 
theleft,  are  the  CAurch(i687-20)  and  the  ext«>nsviekSlabU%^^c.'v».tx^*^ 
of  the  CoDdis,  which  date  from  1719-35,  anaLti^iN^  ^<ic.Q\asy^^^^^^^ 
for  260  horses.    They  are  empty  at  piesent,  'bTxt  m^.^  ^^  Vast^.^'^ 


376  22.  OHANTILLY. 

the  same  hours  as  the  Chateau  (entr.,  No.  15,  Grande  Rue).  —  An 
equestrian  statue  of  the  Due  d^Aumale^  by  G^rome,  "was  erected 
in  1899  to  the  W.  of  the  stahles.  The  bronze  reliefs  on  the  pedestal 
represent  the  Submission  of  Abd-el-Kader  (1847)  and  the  Capture 
of  the  Smalah  (1843). 

A  pretty  view  of  the  park  with  the  chUtean  in  the  backgroaud  is 
obtained  from  the  Senlis  road,  about  */iIS..  from  the  church  ofCbantilly: 
we  take  the  road  to  the  K.  opposite  the  church,  turn  to  the  right  beyond 
the  Canal  de  la  Hanche,  and  proceed  to  the  W.,  between  the  houses  of 
Vineuil  and  the  If.  wall  of  the  park,  to  a  point  above  the  Vertugadin. 

The  FoBBST  OP  Chantillt,  which  covers  an  area  of  6125  acres, 
is  well  kept  and  provided  with  numerous  guide-posts,  but  it  occupie  s 
for  the  most  part  a  flat  site,  and  most  of  the  roads  and  paths  are 
covered  with  a  thick  layer  of  sand  that  renders  walking  disagreeable 
and  fatiguing.  The  paths  skirting  the  railway  to  (1  hr.  from  the 
station)  the  Etang  de  Comelle  (see  below)  are,  however,  better.  The 
paved  Route  de  Louvres  and  another  road  to  the  right  lead  in  about 
1  hr.  from  the  chateau  to  the  Carrefour  de  la  Table^  an  open  space 
where  12  roads  meet,  with  a  large  stone  table  in  the  centre.  The 
Route  du  Conn^table,  starting  from  the  racecourse  near  the  chateau, 
is  very  sandy,  and  is  purposely  kept  soft  by  the  horse-trainers.  The 
entrance  to  the  avenue  is  embellished  with  two  lions,  by  Guillaume 
Coustou.  Pedestrians  will  be  able  to  find  the  more  agreeable  paths 
with  the  aid  of  the  annexed  map.  —  The  Etang  de  la  Beine  Blanche 
or  de  Comelle  is  a  long-shaped  sheet  of  water,  fed  by  the  Thdve,  a 
small  tributary  of  the  Oise,  lying  between  the  Forest  of  Chantilly 
and  the  Forest  of  Coye.  Near  the  lower  end  is  the  Chdteau  de  la 
Beine  Blanche,  a  small  modern  Gothic  hunting-lodge  on  the  site  of 
an  ancient  ch&teau  once  occupied  by  Queen  Blanche,  mother  of  St. 
Louis.  A  little  farther  on  is  the  large  railway-viaduct,  mentioned 
at  p.  369. 

At  (3  M.  from  Chantilly)  8t,  Leu-d'Esserent  we  may  join  the  railway 
from  Creil  to  Paris  via  Beaumont  (see  below).  To  reach  it  we  follow 
first  the  road  from  Paris  to  Amiens,  afterwards  diverging  to  the  left  (comp. 
the  Hap). 

n.  From  Chantilly  to  Paris  vi&  Creil  and  Beaumont. 

At  (6  M.)  Creil  we  change  carriages,  and  join  the  railway  descending 
the  valley  of  the  Oise.  From  Creil  to  Beaumont,  19  M.:  thence  to  Paris 
23  M.  via  MonttouU,  25  H.  via  Valmondoit-Ermont,  or  29  H.  via  Pi>ntoi$e- 
Ermont.    From  Ermont  we  may  also  take  a  ticket  to  the  Gare  St.  Laiare. 

Beyond  Chantilly  the  train  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Nonette  by 

a  Viaduct,  484  yds.  in  length  and  72  ft.  in  height,  consisting 

of  36  arches,  and  commanding  a  fine  view.   To  the  left,  the  Chdteau 

de  Laversine,  belonging  to  Baron  G.  de  Rothschild.  The  train  then 

passes  thiongh  a  catting ,  ttaveisiiii^  t\i«k  ^vma^  ol  St,  Maximin, 

which  yield  excellent  building-Btoiift,  wv^^0Q\i^^^%''5^^^'^^>**.'^^ 

the  right  is  a  handsome  modeTn  chU^aM,  iY%o^>feVsti^^%^ft  xiasnJji^t 

o/  tiie  Rothschild  family.    To  theUiW^^^^^^^'^^^'^^^^^^^^^'^^^^ 


22.   CREIL.  377 

"below) ;  and  in  the  same  direction  are  seen  the  chnrch  of  St.  Leu- 
d'Esserent  (see  below),  and  the  village  and  manufactories  of  Monta- 
taire  (6000  inhah.),  commanded  by  a  church  of  the  12th  and  13th, 
and  a  chllteau  of  the  16th  century. 

32  M.  (from  Paris)  Creil  (Buffet;  H6Ul  ,du  Chemin  de  Fer;  du 
Commerce,  Rue  de  la  Gare),  a  town  with  8500  inhab.,  is  an  im- 
portant station  on  the  Chemin  de  Fer  du  Nord,  being  the  junction 
of  five  different  lines  (see  Baedeker  8  Northern  France),  The  town, 
prettily  situated  on  the  Oise,  is  reached  by  a  tubular  bridge  at  the 
end  of  the  street  leading  from  the  station.  Beyond  the  bridge,  on 
an  island  to  the  right,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Church  of  8t,  Evremont 
(12th  cent.),  and  the  scanty  remains  of  an  ancient  royal  chateau. 
Farther  on,  to  the  left  in  the  main  street,  is  the  Church,  an  irre- 
gular building  with  double  aisles,  mainly  in  the  Flamboyant  style. 
The  stained-glass  windows  are  good;  and  in  a  Gothic  recess  on 
the  left  side  is  a  high-relief  of  the  Madonna  with  SS.  Dominic  and 
Catharine. 

The  line  to  Beaumont  and  Paris,  identical  for  a  short  distance 
with  that  from  Chantilly,  afterwards  follows  the  right  bank  of  the 
Oise.  —  10  M.  St.  Leu-d'Esserent,  a  large  village  with  important 
stone-quarries.  The  conspicuous  church  is  chiefly  of  the  12th  cent. ; 
the  largest  of  the  three  towers  is  Romanesque.  —  12 V2  M-  Fricy; 
15  M.  Boran;  17  M.  Bruylres. 

19  M.  Fersan-Beaumont.  —  Beaumont  and  thence  to  Paris, 
see  R.  19. 

m.  From  Chantilly  to  Paris  vifc  Senlis  and  Cr^py-en-Valois. 

To  SenlU,  8M.  ^  thence  to  Cripy-en-Valois,  14  H.,  where  carriages  are 
changed.    From  Gr^py  to  ParU  (Gare  da  Nord),  88  M. 

This  line  diverges  to  the  right  of  that  to  Creil  beyond  the  viaduct 
over  the  valley  of  the  Nonette  (p.  376).  The  train  stops  at  8t,  Maxi- 
min,  to  the  S.  of  the  village  of  that  name  (p.  376),  and  at  VineuU, 
to  the  N.  of  the  park  of  Chantilly  (p.  375).  —  41/2  M.  8t.  Firmin, 
to  the  N.E.  of  the  village,  which  also  lies  near  the  park.  The  tower 
of  Senlis  cathedral  appears  to  the  right. 

8  M.  Senlis  (^Hdtels  du  Orand  Cerf,  du  Nord,  de  France,  Rue  de 
la  R^publique,  Nos.  21, 28,  27),  the  Roman  Civitas  Sylvariectensium, 
situated  on  the  Nonette,  is  a  pleasant  little  town  with  7200  inhab., 
which  is  frequently  mentioned  in  medieval  history.  Until  the  Re- 
volution it  was  the  seat  of  a  bishopric  founded  by  St.  Rieulor  Regulus. 

On  quitting  the  station  we  cross  a  handsome  boulevard  to  the 
right  and  reach  the  Rue  de  la  R^publique,  the  principal  atteet^ 
which  forms  part  of  the  road  from  Paiift  tolAW^^Ta.^.'0^^^^^^^^ 
p.  375).    To  the  right  appear  the  beltiv  ol  ^^^  ^^>iX^^^T^^^^'^^ 
remarkable  tower  of  St.  Pierre  (p.  378\  .    .  ^^ 

The  second  turning  to  the  rigM  leads  us  ^Ue^cX.  \.o  >^^*  Catve,^-^     ^ 


378  22.    SENLIS, 

a  handsome  Gothic  building  of  the  12-16th  centuries,  with  a  fine 
facade.  The  •Tower  to  the  right  (250  ft.  in  height)  is  justly  ad- 
mired for  its  light  and  elegant  form.  The  usual  turrets  at  the  base 
of  the  spire  are  here  replaced  by  dormer-windows  with  high  pedi- 
ments, recalling  at  a  distance  the  style  of  some  belfries  in  the  S.E. 
of  France.  The  side-portals  are  in  the  Flamboyant  Gothic  style. 
The  vaulting  in  the  interior,  especially  that  of  the  chapel  to  the  left 
of  the  nave,  is  worth  inspection.  In  the  same  chapel  is  an  antique 
marble  bas-relief.   The  windows  are  modern. 

Opposite  the  portal  is  a  house  in  the  grounds  of  which  are  some 
remnants  of  the  Roman  Walls  (towers)  and  of  the  Royal  Palace  of 
the  Merovingians.  A  partial  view  of  these  may  also  be  obtained 
from  the  sidO'Street  to  the  right  To  the  left  of  the  house,  farther 
on,  on  the  right,  is  an  ancient  Gothic  portal,  the  former  entrance  to 
the  palace. 

The  former  Bishop's  Palace,  with  an  ancient  early-Gothic  chapel, 
lies  to  the  right  of  the  choir  of  the  cathedral. 

In  the  neighbourhood,  to  the  right,  is  the  former  Church  of 
8U  Framhourg,  now  a  riding -school.  The  nave  is  a  fine  Gothic 
edifice  of  the  12th  century.  The  neighbouring  Church  of  St.  Pierre 
(12-16th  cent.)  is  now  a  market;  one  of  its  towers  is  surmounted 
by  a  spire,  the  other  by  a  dome. 

The  Rue  de  la  B^publique  descends  towards  the  I^onette.  On 
the  left  is  the  large  Palais  de  Justice,  behind  which  is  a  small  Mus€e 
Municipal^  in  a  street  to  the  left,  which  leads  also  to  the  theological 
CoUlge  de  St.  Virhcent,  which  has  superseded  the  abbey  of  that  name. 
The  abbey-church  (chiefly  12th  cent.)  has  been  preserved. 

Traces  of  a  Roman  Amphitheatre  were  discovered  in  1863  near  the 
town,  to  the  left  of  the  road  to  Chantilly. 

ErmenonviUe  (p.  379)  liea  8  H.  to  the  S.E.  of  Senlis. 

The  train  beyond  Senlis  passes  seven  stations,  of  which  the  chief 
are  (I2V2  M.)  Ba/rhery  and  (16  V2  M.)  Auger-St- Vincent, 

22  M.  Cr^py-en-Valois  (Hdtel  des  Trois  Pigeorhs^  unpretending), 
a  town  with  4380  inhab.,  was  the  ancient  capital  of  a  district  which 
belonged  from  the  i4rth  cent,  to  a  younger  branch  of  the  royal  family 
of  France. 

Quitting  the  station  we  pass  through  one  of  the  Toxon  Oates 
(18th  cent.),  and  proceed  straight  on  to  the  small  Place  du  Paon, 
in  which  is  an  ancient  Gothic  house.  The  Rue  Nationale,  straight 
in  front,  is  the  chief  street  of  the  town. 

The  street  descending  to  the  left  (gateway)  from  the  Place  du 

Paon  affords  a  general  view  of  the  remains  of  the  ancient  Chdteau 

(11 '13th  cent.),   situated  on  a  hill.   —  By  following  the  Rue 

St  Lazare  (gateway)  to  tlift  lig'^tiiomXlQA^Uce^  and  then  the  Rue 

de  VHospice  to   the  left ,  ^ft  ie^c\v  tV^  \w\&i^%>mv^  ^^  ^s^'iii^tft 

church  of  St.  ThomcLs  (begun  m  VV%^  m^  ^^\\^^\A\\ft'^\tfsis«a.\. 

^ecketX    of  which  the  la^a^e^  (.i^t^i  ^^^^-"^  ^^^  ^  ^^^^^  ^^  ^^"^ 


22.  CRfiPY-EN-VALOIS.  379 

(15th  cent.)  still  remain.  —  The  Rue  St.  Thomas,  opposite,  ends  at 
itie  Rue  Jean-Jacques  Rousseau,  which  leads  to  the  left  (gateway) 
to  the  Rue  Nationale.  On  the  opposite  side  begins  the  Rue  Jeanne- 
d*Aic,  leading  to  the  Place  de  la  Hante,  in  which  (to  the  left)  is  a 
handsome  Portal  of  1537.  The  street  to  the  left,  farther  on,  ends 
at  the  foot  of  the  ch&teau  (p.  378).  That  to  the  right  leads  to  a 
little  yalley  at  the  base  of  the  hill  on  which  the  ch&teau  stands. 
The  Rue  du  Lion,  diverging  to  the  right  from  this  street,  brings  us 
to  the  parish  church  of  8t.  Denis ,  in  the  Romanesque  and  Gothic 
styles,  with  a  modern  beUry.  In  the  interior  of  this  church  the  choir 
(15th  cent.),  the  pulpit,  and  the  other  ancient  wood-carvings  should 
be  noticed.  —  In  the  Rue  St.  Denis,  which  leads  hence  back  to  the 
centre  of  the  town,  are  some  quaint  houses. 

Railways  to  Baissons  and  to  CompUffne  vift  Verberie,  see  Baedeker's 
Northern  France, 

251/2  M.  Ormoy;  80  M.  Nanteuil-U-Haudouin.  —  34  M.  Le 
PlesaiS'BelUville, 

From  Le  Plessis  -  Belleville  a  diligence  (1  fr.)  plies  to  Ermenonville 
(Croix  d'Or)^  a  village  3  M.  to  the  N.W. ,  near  the  forest  of  the  same 
name.  It  is  known  as  the  spot  where  J.  J.  Rousseau  died  and  was  buried 
in  1778,  six  weeks  after  his  arrival  to  enjoy  the  retreat  offered  to  him  by 
the  Marquis  de  Girardin.  The  ChdteaUy  now  the  property  of  Prince  Radzi- 
will,  is  at  the  E.  end  of  the  village,  and  is  shown  by  special  permission 
only.  The  Park^  Intersected  by  the  road  which  continues  the  principal 
street  of  the  village^  was  one  of  the  finest  laid  out  in  the  iSth  cent.,  and 
is  more  in  the  English  style  than  in  that  of  Le  Xotre.  The  most  interest- 
ing part  is  the  Grand  Pare,  to  the  left  of  the  road  and  in  front  of  the 
chateau;  it  is  open  to  the  public  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.,  and  visitors  are 
admitted  also  on  other  days  on  application.  The  He  des  PeupUers,  in  a 
lake  here,  contains  the  empty  tomb  of  Rousseau,  his  remains  having  been 
removed  to  the  Pantheon  (p.  242)  in  1794.  —  The  road  passing  in  front  of 
the  chateau  leads  to  Senlis  (p.  377),  8  M.  to  the  N.W.  Mortefontaine  (p.  369) 
lies  6  M.  to  the  W.  of  Ermenonville. 

331/2  Dammarim;  the  small  town  lies  2^2  M.  to  the  N.W.  on  a 
hill  (omnibus  40  c.).  About  1^/4  M.  to  the  S.  (omnibus  30  c.)  is  the 
Colllge  de  Juilly^  founded  in  the  17th  cent,  by  the  fathers  of  the 
Oratory.    Among  its  alumni  have  been  many  celebrated  men.  ^ 

We  next  pass  the  stations  of  (4OY2  M.)  Tfeicwx-iVantowiYi^t, 
(411/2  M.)  Compans,  (43V2  M.)  Mitry-Claye,  and  (461/2  M.)  Ville- 
parisis,  and  skirt  the  Canal  de  VOurcq  (p.  201).  48  M.  Vert-Oalant. 
Between  (49  M.)  Sevran-Livry  and  (51  M.)  Aulnay-lhs-Bondyj  the 
ForH  de  Bondy  appears  on  the  left. 

From  Aulnay-16s-Bondy  a  branch-line  runs  to  (12  M.)  Bondy,  on  the 
line  to  Kancy;  see  Baedeker's  Northern  France, 

54  M.  Le  Bourget-Drancy,   Le  Bourget,  to  the  right,  was  the 
scene  of  sanguinary  struggles  between  the  French  and  Germans  on 
Oct.  28-30th  and  Dec.  24th,  1870,  in  which  the  former  were  repulsed. 
A  monument  to  the  French  soldiers  has  been  ^tec^^,  '^^V<«fe<Kv^'y^ 
the  Li^ne  de  Grande-Ceinture.  —  55  TA.  Le  Poul  Blaut.  — ^^'^^ 
Audervi'llierS'la-Coumeuve,    AubeTvillieia,  «.ti  \iTV\TA.ct^fc^xNxv%"^^'^^ 
to  the  right,  is  connected  with  Paris  bv  a.  txwsv^  VJ  V>^e^  fe^^^^O- 


380  ^1.  AUBERVILLIERS. 

church  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  April,  1900.  —  To  the  right  of 
(66V2  M/)  AuherviUierS'Rue-St'Denia  appears  St.  Denis  (p.  334). 
—  At  (57  M.)  Pont  de  Soissons,  we  join  the  main  Llgne  dn  Nord.  — 
58  M.  La  Plaine-St'Denis.  Then  the  station  of  La  ChapeUt-Nord- 
Ceinture. 

60  M.  Paris  (Gare  du  Nord,  pp.  26,  200). 


BOULOGNE  a.M 


t  :  16,Q0() 


ROUTES  FROM  LONDON  TO  PARIS.+ 


23.  By  Folkestone,  Boulogne,  and  Amiens. 

255  M .  By  Expbbbb  Tbainb  (see  advertisements,  in  ^Bradshaw"^.  from 
Charing  Cross  or  Cannon  Street,  in  8-10  hrs.,  average  sea-passage  2V4  hrs. ; 
fares  21.  iOs.^  11.  lit.  8d.,  and  II.  2«.  9d.  (3rd  cl.  by  afternoon  service 
only);  return-tickets  valid  for  one  month  42.  7«.  lOi.,  32.  3<.,  and  il.  1T<.  5d. 
Passengers  with  single  tickets  may  break  their  journey  at  the  principal 
stations,  and  spend  seven  days  on  the  route.  Begistei^  luggage  is  not 
examined  before  arrival  at  Paris. 

By  Steamboat  from  London  to  Boulogne  (see  'Bradshaw").  Bennett  Steam- 
ship Co.  y  thrice  weekly,  in9-10hrs.  (6  hrs\  river-passage) ;  fare  lOi.,  return 
17<.  lOd. ;  Jfew  Palace  Steamers  Co.^  four  times  weekly  during  the  season; 
return-fares  13*.  6d.,  11*.  6d.  This  route  is  pleasant  in  favourable  weather; 
but  the  trains  from  Boulogne  to  Paris  (p.  384)  do  not  correspond  with 
the  steamers. 

BonlOgne-BUr-Mer.  —  Hotels.  Xear  the  baths:  H6tel  deb  Bains 
DB  Mbb  (PI.  a;  D,  1);  South-Eastbbn  Hotel  (PL  it;  D,  1);  db  la  Plaob 
(PI.  a;  D,  1);  DB  la  Mabinb  (PI.  b;  D,  2),  all  in  the  Boul.  Ste-Beuve; 
DE  Folkestone  (PI.  c;  D,  2),  de  Pabib  (PI.  d;  D,  2),  Windsob  (PL  e; 
D,  2)/Quai  Gambetta  (Nos.  74,  66,  &  62).  In  the  town:  H5tel  dbs  Bains 
et  de  Bellbvub(PL  f;  E,  3),  Quai  Gambetta  and  Bue  Victor-Hugo ;  Hsu- 
BicB  ST  DB  l'Untvbbb  (PL  1,  h ;  £,  2,  8),  Continental  (PL  m;  E,  3),  Bue 
Victor-Hugo  (Kos.  26,35);  Bbitibh  Hotel  (PLl;  E  3),  Bue  Faidherbe  27; 
DD  LouvBE  (PL  n;  D,  8),  near  the  station  E.,  L.,  &  A.  at  these  2V2-7»/2, 
d^j.  2V2-4Va»  !>•  3-7,  pens.  8-20  fr.,  wine  generallv  extra.  —  There  are  also 
numerous  maUons  meublies,  pensions^  and  furnished  apartments. 

Bestanranti.  Casino  (d^j.  4,  D.  5  fir.);  HOtel  de  Flandre,  Quai  Gam- 
betta 52  (d^j.  2,  D.  21/i  fr.);  ffdtel  du  Port,  Quai  Gambette  34  (ddj.  2V«, 
D.  3  fr.);  also  at  most  of  the  above-named  hotels  and  at  the  railway- 
stations. 

Oafes.  Qrand  Cafi  de  Boulogne,  ConUnental^  Bue  Adolphe-Thiers  63  and 
63;  others  in  the  Bue  Honsigny  and  elsewhere. 

Cabs.  From  6  a.m.  to  midnight,  per  drive  IV2  fi*.,  per  hour  2  fr. ;  from 
midnight  to  6  a.m.  2  fr.  and  2Vs  fr.}  outside  the  town,  per  hr.  272  fr. 

Tramway  to  the  Etablissement  de  Bains  firom  the  Place  Didton  (PL 
F,  3),  16  c. ;  from  the  Coin-Henteur  (PL  E,  3),  10  c. 

Casino.  Admission  per  day  1  fr.,  week  10,  fortnight  17,  month  29  fr. ; 
double  t'ckets  19,  32,  or  54  fir.  Adm.  to  Theatre,  4  fr.  See  the  gratuitous 
'Guide  Programme'. 

Batha.  Sea  Baths  i  fr.,  including  machine  and  towels;  subscription 
for  12  baths  9  fr. ;  at  the  Edole  de  Ifatation  (enclosed  basins)  50  c.  and 
5fr.  60  c.;  Sot  Baihs  ifr. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Ofaeea,  Bue  du  Pot-d'Etain  12  (PL  E,  3). 

British  Yioe-Conaul,  S.  F.  Fanner,  Bsq.,  EueWissocq  14.  —  American 
Agent,  William  Hale,  Bue  de  la  Gare  8.  —  Bankers,  Adam  <t  Co.,  Bue 
Victor-Hugo  6  (also  Lloyd^s  agents).  —  Merridew's  Library,  Bue  Victor- 
Hugo  60. 

English  Ohnrohes  in  the  Bue  du  Temple,  ^BLxie  ^^\^\iKai^v  ^s^^^^**^ 
des  VieUlardB.  —  JTmo  Wesley  an  MtsihodisX  Churchy  IQ  Qftwv\^  ^^va. 


t  For  Uriher  detoUa,  see  Baedtltr"*  ISwihtm.  Franca. 


382   Route  23.         BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.  From  London 

Boulogne-sur-Mery  so  called  to  distinguish  it  from  Boulogne-sui- 
Seine  near  Paris,  the  Bononia  (?)  or  Oessoriacum  of  the  Romans,  is 
an  important  seaport  and  the  largest  town  in  the  Dtfpartement  Pas- 
de-Calais,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Liane,  with  a  population  of 
46,800,  of  whom  over  1000  are  permanent  English  residents.  Itg 
numerous  schools  enjoy  a  high  reputation.  The  town  is  divided  into 
the  Haute 'Ville^  or  old  town,  on  the  height  to  the  E.,  and  the  much 
larger  Basse  -  Ville,  including  the  harbour.  The  part  of  the  Basse- 
Ville  on  the  left  or  W.  hank  of  the  Liane  is  known  as  Capieure. 

The  Harbour  y  especially  the  E.  part  near  the  Douarhe  (PI.  D,  2), 
presents  a  very  busy  scene.  Boulogne  stands  next  to  Marseilles, 
Havre,  and  Bordeaux  among  the  seaports  of  France.  Its  commer- 
cial importance  is  increasing,  and  in  1879  extensive  operations 
were  begun  with  the  view  of  enlarging  the  port,  but  their  completion 
has  been  deferred  owing  to  lack  of  funds.  Vessels  are  now  able  to 
enter  and  clear  at  low  water.  The  West  Pier  stretches  into  the  sea 
for  a  distance  of  765  yds. 

The  Oare  Maritime  (PI.  D,  2),  on  the  quay  of  the  Folkestone 
steamers,  is  connected  with  the  Orande  Oare^  or  principal  railway 
station  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  by  a  short  branch-line.  On  the  right  bank  of 
the  Liane,  immediately  beyond  the  Pont  Marguet  (PI.  E,  3),  is  a 
bronze  statue,  by  Lafrance,  of  FrSdirie  Sauvage^  who  is  regarded 
by  the  French  as  the  inventor  of  the  screw-propeller.  Thenee  the 
Quai  Qamhetta  runs  to  the  N.  to  the  HalU  (PI.  E,  3)  and  the 
Douane  (PI.  D,  2).  Near  the  Halle  is  a  statue  of  Jermerj  the  dis- 
coverer of  vaccination,  by  Eug.  Paul. 

The  Fish  Market  Is  held  early  In  the  morning  in  the  Halle.  The 
fishermen  and  their  families  occupy  a  separate  quarter,  La  Beurrihre^  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  town,  and  form  one-tenth  of  the  population.  They 
partly  adhere  to  the  picturesque  costume  of  their  ancestors,  and  differ 
somewhat  in  character  and  customs  from  the  other  inhabitants  of  the  town. 

The  Etdblissement  de  BairhSy  with  its  Garden  and  handsome 
Casino  (PI.  D,  1,  2),  lies  farther  to  the  E.  Adm.,  see  p.  381. 
The  garden  is  always  open  to  visitors,  but  non-subscribers  pay  20  c. 
for  admission  on  concert-days.  —  Between  the  shadeless  beech  and 
the  cliffs  runs  the  Boulevard  Sainte-Beuve  (PI.  D,  1,  2),  named  in 
honour  of  the  famous  critic  (1819-55),  who  was  a  native  of  Boulogne. 
The  East  Pier,  or  Jetie  de  VEst  (PI.  B,  0,  1,  2),  which  extends 
650  yds.  into  the  sea,  is  a  favourite  evening-promenade.  —  On  the 
cliff  is  the  ruined  Tour  d'Ordre  ('Turris  Ardens' ;  PI.  D,  1),  a  Roman 
beacon  tower  built  under  Caligula  in  40  A.  D. 

We  now  return  to  visit  the  town.   The  Rue  Vieior'Hugo  (PI. 

E,  3)  and  its  continuation  the  Rue  Nationale  contain  the  principal 

shops.    The  Rue  Adolphe-Thiers^  parallel  to  the  Rue  Victor-Hugo, 

begins  at  the  Place  Dalton  (PI.  'P,  ^\  Vo.  ^\At\\.  mea  the  church  of 

S^.  Nicholas  (17-18th  cent.").    T\iek  QT<M^AeB^»ft  ^^'wkiAa  t5W5Si.^S^ 

point  to  the  Haute -Ville.  ,      _,^ 

The  Museum  (PL  F,  3),  In  tlie  Qftatii^ft^^^,  c«Tv\aAa&  ^i^Kftft^v^- 


to  Paris,  BOULOGNE-SUR-MBR.         23.  Route,   383 

ical  and  historical  collections,  some  Egyptian  antiquities,  and  a 
picture  gallery  (open  in  summer  daily,  except  Tues.,  11-4;  in 
winter  on  Sun.,  Wed.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.).  The  Public  Library,  on 
the  second  floor,  contains  56,000  vols,  and  some  interesting  MSS. 
(open  daily,  except  Frid.,  10-4). 

At  the  top  of  the  Grande  Rue,  on  the  left,  is  the  Sous-Prefec- 
ture (PI.  F,  3),  in  front  of  which  is  a  colossal  hust  of  Henri  II., 
hy  Davidy  commemorating  the  restoration  of  the  town  to  France  hy 
the  English  in  the  reign  of  that  monarch  (1560).  In  the  Boulevard 
Mariette,  farther  on  (PI.  G,  2),  stands  a  bronze  statue  of  Mariette 
Bey.  the  eminent  Egyptologist,  who  was  a  native  of  Boulogne 
(1821-81).  A  little  to  the  N.  is  a  public  park  known  as  Les  Tintel- 
leries  (PI.  F,  2 ;  concerts  in  summer).  Close  by  is  the  Boulogne- 
Tintelleries  Statiorh  (p.  388)  on  the  railway  to  Calais. 

The  Haute- ViLLB  (PI.  F,  G,  2,  3),  enclosed  by  ramparts  (13th 
cent.),  is  entered  by  three  gateways :  the  Porte  des  Dunes y  the  Porte 
de  Calais ,  and  the  picturesque  Porte  Gayole,  The  H6tel  de  Ville 
(PI.  G,  3)  was  erected  in  1734  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  castle,  where 
the  crusader  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  was  born  in  1065. 

The  church  of  Notre-Dame  (PL  G,  2),  a  building  in  the  degraded 
Italian  style,  erected  in  1827-66,  occupies  the  site  of  a  Gothic  church 
which  was  destroyed  in  1793.  Handsome  high -altar  in  mosaic 
work ,  and  richly  ornamented  Lady  Chapel.  Curious  crypt  (adm. 
1  fr.).  The  lantern  which  surmounts  the  dome  is  crowned  with  a 
colossal  statue  of  the  Virgin ,  which  forms  the  most  conspicuous 
point  in  the  whole  town.  Extensive  ♦View,  comprising  the  'dunes', 
the  plateau  traversed  by  the  railway  to  Calais ,  in  the  foreground 
Napoleon's  Column,  and  in  the  distance,  in  clear  weather,  the  white 
cliffs  of  the  English  coast.  The  entrance  to  the  staircase  is  by  a 
door  to  the  right,  at  the  S.  portal  (adm.  1  fr.). 

The  Chdteau  (PI.  G,  2),  in  which  Louis  Napoleon  was  confined 
after  the  attempted  insurrection  of  1840,  is  the  ancient  citadel  of 
Boulogne,  and  dates  from  the  13th  century.  It  is  now  converted 
into  barracks  (no  admission). 

The  Cemetery  of  the  Haute  -Ville  (beyond  PI.  G,  2)  contains  the 
graves  of  Sir  Harris  Nicolas,  Basil  Montague,  and  numerous  other 
Englishmen. 

In  1804  Napoleon  I.  assembled  an  army  of  172,000  infantry  and  9000 
cavalry  on  the  table-land  to  the  N.  of  Boulogne ,  under  the  command  of 
Marshals  Soult,  Ney,  Davoust  and  Victor,  and  collected  in  the  harbour 
a  flotilla  of  2413  craft  of  various  dimensions,  for  the  purpose  of  invad- 
ing England  and  establishing  a  republic  there.  The  troops  were  ad- 
mirably drilled,  and  only  awaited  the  arrival  of  the  fleets  from  Antwerp, 
Brest,  Cadiz,  and  the  harbours  of  the  Mediterranean,  which  had  been  in 
the  course  of  formation  for  several  years  for  this  express  purpose.  Theit 
union  was  prevented  by  the  British  fleet  uudet  ^Vt  'R.Q\i«tV  ^^^'«  \  ^«>s^^ 
the  victoiy  of  Nelaon  at  Trafalgar,  on  22iiA.  Oct. ,  "^SRfe  .^  twsv^\^\R.^  ^^'^ 
discomfitare  of  the  undertaking.  .    _^^ 

4'To  /^.^''i^?^/^  CoLUUN,  or  the  Colonne  de  la  Grande- Armte,  ''•^^^^J:?^  ^^ 
i72ft.  in  height,  constructed  by  Marquise,  aUua.te^'i^.^^^^^''^^^^ 


:-?-T    i-ait   -;  i3GZ^ 


-=- -T-  r       ==■     :   ijj-       1=^-    ▼  mi        ».i=-    ---.=-«i.     ^     i«-_7aK:4.  wld 


r  —  1. 


J-       '..r-- 


r-  -  — _i:.T.     .   -  .  J-    •  .  ."  •?«        ^■■-*   L   I..TT-:  ni  i~Je-"-— ~«a?ii. 

■■  '-.'  ~-^-  z~-   "^1.7-^    L^  -  -  .      -       "      -    :   _  ::      ::    - "i* '   ia- 

-•  A.   ±j=sv:lltf    ^  ".  -4-  .--Ttr:      i     .   :t     -  T  -*—;*— 5   rtir    'St 

--i_L  :"-_  :n_  Jii^    -  T.r   f- -z_         ■I'*  >".    ^   ."^.^n.    -1x3411*1  ui 

-  ..^    z.~-r'-T'^.:i^      7*1-     i«t-T    J  H.  -r"^.£— 7 ■—.•;=    -.niaiJis  ire- 

■Z-r-  J*i  *  -  : \=_    -*"t-c  -r  :.  _-•::■.. r*.   :-?     "  —  ts-        ^-uzrac  izsaiT' 
-\--~n.j.   -:  :  ^r^.-u"  — .    '.::  i- -  :'^  -  '^~.  f  ■.-:—-  >  x  ?r-  ore  =?acae 

-  l.-:»ir-ir    —  -   -  - .:  — T    ."'   --^-"       ■  -  i.    .:—      ^li  :ar  ^Istft 

r--^    -     -  -.I'll-. -rrz.  ;  r-   -u  -  -    -     ."..-u-r^  «aa  Sfcrs*, 


.  —     -J.-^xrA. 


Bciaii^ 


AMtemt 


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Taitbott 


to  Paria.  AMIENS.  23.  RouU.    385 

76^/2  M.  Amiens.  —  Hotels.  HdTBL  DB  l'Ukivbju  (PI.  a}  G,  4),  du 
Rhim  (PI.  b;  G,  4),  Rue  Xoyon  and  Place  St.  Denis,  R-  3-7fr.{  dk  Fbancic 
ST  d'Akolbtbbbs  (PI.  e;  E,  F,  4),  Rue  de  la  R^pnbliqae  9,  nearer  the 
centre  of  the  town,  R.  2V2-5  fr.  \  Ecu  db  Fban ob  (PI.  f ;  G,  4),  Rue  de  Xoyon, 
R.  from  2Vf  fr.?  db  Pabis  (PL  d;  G,  4),  Rne  de  Noyon,  pens.  V/t  fr., 
incl.  wine;  Boisst  (PI.  g;  E,  3),  Rue  Ste.  Marguerite;  du  Commebce  (PL  e; 
F,  4),  Rue  des  Jacobins  j  db  la  Pais  (PL  h;  £,  4),  db  Roubn  (PL  i;  E,  4), 
Rue  Dnm^ril  17  and  4^ ;  Cboix  Blanchb,  Rue  de  Beauyais  44  (PL  E,  4). 

Oafia.  DufourmcmUlki  Rue  des  Trois-CalUouz  34,  and  others  in  the 
same  street. 

OabB.  For  1-2  pen. ,  per  drff e  76  c,  per  hr.  l^/s  fr. ;  3-4  pers.  1  fr. 
and  2  fr. ;  eaoh  V4  hr.  extra  60  c. 

Amiens ,  the  ancient  capital  of  Picaidy,  now  that  of  the  Depart- 
ment of  the  Somme,  with  88,730  inhab.,  and  one  of  the  principal 
mannfacturing  towns  in  France ,  is  situated  on  the  Somme  and  its 
afflnents  the  Arve  and  the  8eUe.  These  streams  form  nnmerous 
canals  in  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  the  industrial  quarter.  The 
principal  manufactures  are  linen,  woollen  stuffs,  silk  thread,  cash- 
meres, and  yelyet.  The  central  part  of  the  town  is  surrounded  by 
handsome  boulevards  on  the  site  of  the  former  fortiflcations,  of 
which  the  Citadel  (PI.  E,  1)  is  the  only  relic.  In  1802  the  Peace 
of  Amiens  between  France  and  England  was  concluded  here.  On 
20th  Nov. ,  1870,  the  Prussians  defeated  the  French  near  Amiens, 
and  entered  the  town  on  the  following  day. 

The  exit  from  the  station  is  in  the  boulevards,  opposite  the  Hue 
de  Noyon,  which  we  follow  to  the  Place  St.  Denis  (PI.  F,  G,  4),  em- 
bellished with  a  bronze  statue  of  Ducange,  the  eminent  philologist 
(bom  at  Amiens  in  16i0;  d.  1688).  The  Rue  Victor-Hugo  leads 
hence  to  the  right,  passing  the  modem  Palais  de  Justice ,  to  the  — 

*Cathsdbal(P1.  F,  3),  one  of  the  most  imposing  Gothic  churches 
in  Europe,  erected  in  1220-1288  by  the  architects  Robert  de  Lu- 
zarcheSy  Thomas  de  Cormont,  and  his  son  Renault.  Length  470  ft, 
length  of  transept  213  ft.,  width  of  nave  144  ft.  The  heaviness 
of  the  building  is  insufficiently  relieved  by  the  lofty  spire  over  the 
transept,  392  ft.  in  height,  or  145  ft.  above  the  roof,  re-erected  in 
1529.  The  two  uncompleted  towers  of  the  W.  facade  belong  to  the 
13th  and  15th  cent.,  the  former  being  181  ft.,  the  latter  210  ft.  in 
height,  but  like  the  central  spire  they  are  too  small  for  the  edifice. 
The  principal  W,  portal,  one  of  the  finest  parts  of  the  building,  was 
completed  towards  the  end  of  the  14th  century. 

The  *Fapads  contains  three  lofty  recessed  porches,  richly  adorned 
with  reliefs  and  statues.  The  '■Beau  Dieu  STAmiem*  is  an  admirable  figure 
uf  the  Sayiour  which  separates  the  doors  of  the  central  portal.  Above 
the  portals  are  a  handsome  gallery,  niches  containing  twenty -two  col- 
ossal statues  of  kings  of  Judah,  a  magnificent  rose-window  38  ft.  in  dia- 
meter, and  still  higher  a  gallery  connecting  the  towers. 

The  *Imtbbiob  consists  of  nave,  transept,  aisles,  and  choir .^  all  {Lft.wkft.^ 
with  chapels.    The  nave  rises  to  the  very  unuswiV  \ic^^^  o^i  vfV  SX..^\>'»^ 
saxpassed   ia   this  respect   by   the   cathedral   ot  "Bt«bV)LN*.\a    iVcras..  .^^^ 
vsultiBg  ia  home  by  126  remarkably  l:>(Ad  colxinmft,  \«^wvu^  ^^^^^^^cvoTv^ 
top.      The  BUdned  glass  in   the  rose -window  a ,  \.tVioTVx«CL,  va^^^Y^^^^x^'^ 
ancieat    The  orgMn-lott  dates  from  1425,  \>\it\i»s  \>«feTv  mvi^*^^^^^^'^- 
BABDMjaR.  PariB.   14th  BdU.  "^^ 


386  RouU  23.  AMIENS.  From  London 

bronze  "'Monumenta  of  tlie  two  bisliops  who  foanded  the  church,  one  on 
each  Bide  of  the  nave,  are  fine  works  of  the  19th  century.  The  wall  of 
the  choir  is  adorned  with  *Beliefs  representing,  on  the  "S.  side  the  history  of 
John  the  Baptist,  on  the  S.  side  the  life  of  St.  Firmin,  sculptured  in  1488 
and  1530.  Behind  the  high-altar  is  the  ^£!n/afU  Fleureur\  a  much  admired, 
but  overrated  weeping  angel,  by  Blasset.  At  the  entrance  to  the  choir 
are  large  marble  statues  of  St.  Vincent  de  Paul  and  San  Carlo  Borromeo. 
The  transept  contains  some  interesting  reliefs,  painted  and  gilded  (beginning 
of  the  16th  cent.). 

The  *C?ioir  Stalls^  110  in  number,  are  fine  specimens  of  carving  exe- 
cuted in  1606-22.  There  are  no  few%r  than  3660  figures.  The  subjects 
are  mainly  Scriptural,  but  also  represent  different  worldly  occupations. 

The  traveller  should  not  neglect  to  visit  the  Triforium^  which  com- 
mands a  good  survey  of  the  interior  of  the  church,  and  ascend  thence  to 
the  external  galleries  and  the  tower. 

At  the  back  of  the  church  rises  a  statue  in  bronze  of  Peter  the  Her- 
mit (PI.  F,  3),  or  Pierre  of  Amiens,  the  promoter  of  the  first  crusade. 

The  Rue  Robert- de-Luzarches  leads  to  the  S.  from  the  cathedral 
to  the  Rue  des  Trois-Cailloux,  with  the  best  shops  and  the  Theatre 
(PL  F,  4).  From  the  Place  Gambetta  (PI.  E,  3,  4),  with  a  gilded 
clock-tower,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Rue  des  Trois-Oailloux,  the  Rue 
de  la  R^publique  runs  to  the  S.  to  the  bouleyards;  while  the  Rue 
Delambre  leads  to  the  N.W.  to  a  square  in  wbicb  rise  the  Belfry 
(PL  E,  3),  an  eccentric  edifice  of  1748  (restored  in  1865),  and  the 
Hdtel  de  Ville  (PL  E,  3),  lately  enlnrged  and  almost  entirely  rebuilt 

The  *Mu8£e  de  Picardie  (PL  E,  4),  in  the  Rue  de  la  R6publique, 
is  open  on  Sun.,  Tues.,  &  Thurs.,  12  to  4  or  5  (at  other  times  for  a 
fee).  The  collections  on  the  groundfloor  Include  medissyal  carvings; 
Roman  antiquities  (tomb-relieis.  leaden  coffins,  bronzes,  glass);  a 
fine  mosaic  found  at  Amiens  in  1857,  with  interesting  arrangement 
of  colours ;  fayence  from  Nevers  and  Beauvais ;  a  few  Greek  antiqui- 
ties (statue  of  Diana;  mosaic  of  Apollo);  and  a  collection  of  modern 
sculptures.  In  the  Grande  Salle  Centrale  and  on  the  first  floor  are 
about  250  French  paiiitings,  chiefly  of  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century  (David,  Q^rdme,  etc.).  The  staircase  is  adorned  with  mural 
paintings  by  Puvis  de  Chavannes,  —  In  the  same  street  is  the  Bt&fio- 
thtque  Communale  (PL  E,  4). 

In  a  street  running  parallel  with  the  Boul.  du  Mail,  to  the  N., 
is  a  monument  called  the  JUuatrations  Picardes  (PL  F,  4),  consisting 
of  a  figure  of  Picardy,  surrounded  with  statues  and  busts  of  eminent 
natives  of  that  province.  —  On  the  W.  side  of  the  town  is  the 
pleasant  Promenade  de  la  Hotoie  (PL  A-G,  2.  3).  The  churches  of 
St.  Germain  (PL  E,  3)  and  St.  Leu  (PL  F,  2)  are  GotMo  struotures 
of  the  15th  cent.,  with  elegant  towers. 

A  branch-line  connects  Amiens  with  Rouen  (in  2^  hrs.). 

Beyond  Amiens  we  cross  the  Arve.  7972  Ai.  Longueau  (buffet), 
junction  of  a  line  to  Arrcw  (LlUe).  ^^w  ^W(«t  MO  Bovee  Ib  a  rnln- 
od  chate&n  in  which  HenrllV.  olteiCLiei«\^^^^VCa.>2tA\««aS»iaa- 
brieUe  d'Estrtfes.    Fine  vle^  oi  t^ft  ^'^^^l  ^'^^'^'^?^*  ."^^^' 


toFarU.  CLERMONT.  93.  Route.   387 

It/i  M.  to  the  S.E.,  aie  the  ruins  of  a  ohliteaa,  and  a  late-Gothic 
church  containing  a  monument  hy  Ant.  della  Porta.  —  From 
(99Vs  M.)  BreteuU'Oare  a  branch-line  leads  to  the  (41/2  M.)  small 
town  of  BreteuU  (3100  inhab.). 

104  M.  8L  Juit-en^Chaustie,  the  centre  of  a  hosiery-manufac- 
taring  district,  and  the  Junction  of  lines  to  fieauvals  and  Douai. 

1171/2  M.  Clermont  de  I'Oise  (Hdtel  8t,  Andri,  well  spoken  of), 
a  town  with  5730  inhab.,  pleasantly  situated  on  a  hiU,  is  commanded 
by  an  ancient  castle  now  used  as  a  prison  for  women.  The  church 
of  8t,  Samson,  of  the  14th  and  i6th  cent.,  has  recently  been  restored. 
The  Hdtel  de  YiOe,  built  in  1320  and  restored  in  1887,  is  said  to  be 
the  oldest  in  the  N.  of  France.  The  country  here  is  well-peopled 
and  picturesque.   Branch-lines  to  Gompi^gne  and  to  Beauvais. 

1221/2  M.  Liancourt'toui' Clermont  (Hot.  du  Ghemin-de-Fer- 
dn-Nord),  a  manufacturing  town  with  4170  inhab.,  contains  the 
rained  chiteau  (17th  cent.)  of  the  dukes  of  Rochefoncauld-Liancourt 
And  a  StoAue  of  Duke  Fridiric  AUxandre  (1747-1827),  distinguished 
for  bis  philanthropy  and  his  encouragement  of  agrirulture.  The 
chnrch  contains  two  good  marble  monuments. 

127  M.  Creil ,  beyond  which  the  train  skirts  the  Oiae.  Large 
poieelain-fiactory  on  an  island  in  the  river. 

From  Greil  to  (159  M.)  Paris,  see  R.  22. 

24.  By  Dover,  Calais,  and  Amiens. 

383  M.  By  Expbkss  (see  ^Bradshaw"),  starting  from  Charing  Cross,  Can- 
non Street,  Victoria,  Holbom  Viaduct,  and  St.  PauPs  stations,  in  V/rtO  hrs. ; 
•ea-pa«Mge  iV4-lV4  hr.;  fare  21.  16f.  2d.,  il.  19«.  2d.,  and  12.  bt.  6d.  (3rd 
cL  by  lA^bi  service  only) ;  tickets  available  for  seven  days,  with  option  of 
halting  at  Dover,  Calais,  and  Amiens;  return-tickets,  valid  for  one  month, 
41.  lit.  Bd.,  31.  85.  lOd.,  and  21.  —  Luggage  should  be  registered  before 
leaTlBg  Bngland,  to  avoid  examination  at  Calais. 

Galail.  —  EoteU.  OBAND-HdTEL,  Place  Richelieu  (PI.  B,  4) ;  Terminds, 
at  the  Ghtre  Maritime  (PI.  G,  2);  Buffet-HStel,  at  the  Central  Station 
(PI.  B,  6);  DB  Flandbb,  Rue  Leveuz  (PI.  B,  4);  Dbssim,  Rue  Amiral 
Oourhet  5  (Pi.  C,  3) ;  Sauvaob*,  HdTEL  do  Commebcb;  de  Londbes,  Rue 
de  la  Cloche  7.  —  Oaf^e:  Bellevue,  de  France,  du  Qldbe,  Place  d'Armes; 
Qrand  (ktfi,  eomer  of  the  Boul.  Jacquart  and  the  Rue  Lafayette.  —  8ea- 
BatMng:  to  the  N.  of  the  Bassin  de  Retenue. 

Oabe.  For  l-2per8.,  per  drive  90  c,  per  hr.  IV2  fr.;  3  pers.  1  fr.  20  c, 
2  fir. ;  4  pere.  1  fr.  60  c,  2  fr.  60  c. ;  double  fare  after  11  p  m. 

Britieh  Oonanl,  (7.  A.  Payton,  Esq. ;  Vice-consul.  E.  H  Blomefleld,  E»q. 
(alfo  Lloyd*8  agent).  —  United  States  Oonsul,  Jame*  B.  Milner,  Esq. 

Xasliah  Ohareh,  Rue  du  Muulin-Brul^.  —  Wesleyan  Chapel,  Rue  du 
Teo&ple. 

Gofola,  a  town  with  56,940  inhah.,  including  St.  Pitrre-lls- 
OalaiMy  and  a  fortress  of  the  first  class,  derives  its  chief  i^lpQIt«xv<^^ 
from  Its  haihonr  and  its  traffic  with  England,  to 'w\A5i\i\\.\^\Xxfcw^^\^x. 
part  on  the  French  co&at,   Dover  is  18  M.  diat&ivX,    ^XiQW\.'>&^>^^ 
tnreUtnpaaa  through  the  town  Annnally.    T\ife  \bW  ^xi^^^  ^'^'^'^' 
dentg  sre  ehietiy  engaged  in  the  extensive  tT\\\e-ma.ivwl«.^X.Q^««^- 


388   RouUSd.  CALAIS. 

The  Harbour f  which  is  accessible  at  all  states  of  the  tide, 
has  been  doubled  in  size  by  extensive  new  works,  leoently  com- 
pleted at  a  cost  of  2,400,0002.  The  Old  Harbour^  with  the  fonner 
railway-station,  lies  nearest  to  the  Place  d'Armes;  the  imposing 
*NeuD  Harbour  farther  to  the  E.  The  new  Oare  Marithne  (PL  0,  2), 
where  passengers  from  England  find  the  train  for  Paris  waiting,  is 
Bitnated  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  Avant-Port  (PL  B,  C,  2),  and  is 
connected  by  a  short  branch-line,  skirting  the  new  harbour,  with 
the  Oare  CentraU  (see  below). 

The  old  H6tel  de  VUU  (PI.  B,  G,  3),  in  the  Place  d'Armes,  the 
handsomest  edifice  in  the  town,  was  erected  in  1740  on  the  site  of- an 
earlier  bnilding  of  which  the  tower  still  remains  (15th  cent*).  It  Is 
adorned  with  busts  of  the  Due  de  Gutf€,  ^libtfratenr  de  Calais  en 
1558',  and  Richelieu ,  the  founder  of  the  citadel  in  1634.  —  The 
church  of  Notre- Dame ,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  dating  from  the 
12th  and  (chiefly)  14th  cent.,  has  been  modernised.  The  handsome 
marble  altar,  an  Assumption  by  Seghert  (1628),  and  a  Descent  from 
the  Gross  by  Rubens  (?)  may  be  inspected. 

At  the  end  of  the  Rue  de  Guise,  leading  S.  from  the  Place  d'Armes, 
is  the  Hdtel  de  Ouise  (PL  B,  C,4),  in  the  EngUsh  Tudor  style,  orig- 
inally founded  by  Edward  III.  as  a  guildhouse  for  the  wool-staplers. 

The  Oare  Centrale  (PL  B,  5)  lies  between  Calais  proper  and 
St.  Pierre.  Near  it,  on  the  St.  Pierre  side,  are  a  pretty  PaHe  and  the 
Place  Centrale  (PL  G,  5). 

St.  PiEBBB-LBS-CAiiAis  is  the  industrial  and  commercial  part  of 
Calais.  Its  prosperity  is  due  chiefly  to  its  extensive  manufacture 
of  tulle ,  an  industry  which  was  introduced  from  Nottingham  in 
1818.  The  Church  of  St.  Pierre  (PL  D,  7),  built  in  1862-70,  and 
the  Hdtel  de  ViUe  are  both  situated  in  the  Place  Crdvecosur. 

Fbom  Calais  to  Bouloonb.  —  I3/4  M.  Caiaia-VUle  (central 
station,  see  above) ;  3  M.  Fontinettes^  still  within  the  new  foitiflca- 
tions  of  Calais.  5  M.  Frethun;  II8/4  M.  Caffiers,  —  17  M.  MarquUe^ 
a  small  town  with  marble  quarries,  is  7  M.  from  Cap  Orii  Ne%,  the 
nearest  point  to  the  English  coast,  and  the  proposed  starting-point 
of  the  submarine  tunnel  between  France  and  England. 

26  M.  Boulogne f  and  thence  to  Paris,  see  R.  23. 

The  express  trains  from  Calais  to  Paris  do  not  enter  Boulogne  itself, 
but  touch  at  the  suburban  station  of  (25  M.)  BtnOogne-TiiUetkria  (p.  383). 

25.  By  Newhaven,  Dieppe,  and  Bouen. 

248  M.    By   Express  from  Victoria  and  London  Bridge  stations  (see 
^Bradshaw')  in  9  (day-service)  or  10  hrs.  (night" service);  single  tickets, 
available  for  seven  days,  34«.  Id.,  25«.  7d.,  iSs.  Id.  \  retum-ticketo,  available 
for  one  month,  58s.  3(2.,  42s.  3d.,  ^s.^d.^  available  for  2  months,  6Sf.  94., 
4fi#.  Id.,  36s,  3d.t  sea-passage  3^|2-\^|a\vo\tta.  \Av^^.^t^wsM. he  registered  at 
I.ODdon  or  Newhayen  in  otder  to  avoi^  ^xKm\\i«^\«».*X\iV«i^^v^Va^^»a^&«^^ 
iaggage  registefed  to  London  is  examm^d.  ''^.^^^^'S!?^,.w^v  w'^iT'^i. 
I^ondon    to  Paris,    the  sliorteat  \n  xv(iVM^\  mW.^^^^^^^^^^^^-^^^^^^x  ^ 
•Iso  one  of  the  cheapest  and  mosV  \nVeTeaVni%. 


DIEPPE.  25.  RouU,   389 

Dieppe.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Rotal  (PI.  a ;  C,  1),  Gbahd  HdxsL  Fsamsais 
(PL  b  \  B,  1),  Gbavo  HdTBL  M Atbopolb  bt  des  Bains  (PI.  d  \  D,  1),  des 
Etbanobbs  (PI.  f ;  D,  1),  Gbano  Hotel  (PI.  g ;  E,  1),  all  in  the  Rue  Agnado, 
facing  the  sea  (B.  from  about  4,  d^j.  4-6,  D.  6-6  f^.).  —  *HdTBL  db  Pabis 
(PL  m;  C,  1),  Place  de  Oamille  Saint-Saens,  opposite  the  Oasino;  d^ Albion 
BT  DU  Tbbminus  (PL  h;  E,  2),  Qoai  Henri  IV.,  opposite  the  steamboat- 
wharf;  DB  LA  Paix  (PLj_;  G,2),  Grande  Rue  212;  Chabiotd'Ob  (Pl.k;  0,2), 
Bne  de  la  Barre;  dbs  Fakillbs  (PL  1;  G,  2),  Bue  de  rHdtel-de-Ville  29. 

—  HdT.  OD  Globb  bt  Victobia  (PL  05  D,  2),  Rue  Duqnesne  8;  du  Com- 
KBBCB  (PL  n;  D,  2),  Place  Nationale;   du  Rhin  bt  db  Nbwhavbn  (PL  e; 

C,  1),  Bne  Aguado  t  Solbil  d'Ob,  Bne  Gambetta  4.  —  Travellers  are  recom- 
mended to  ascertain  the  prices  beforehand.  -^  FttmUhed  Apartments  are 
also  easily  found  in  the  Rue  Agnado. 

Bestanrants.  Caf4-Re*taurant  du  (kuino,  on  the  beach,  see  below  (d^j . 
4,  D.  5  fr.);  A%  FaUan  Dori,  Grande  Rue  74  (d<j.  2,  D.  21/2  tt.)\  Hdtel 
de»  Areadeif  Arcades  de  la  Bourse,  d^j.  ls/4,  D.  2  fr.  Buffet^  at  the  Gare 
Maritime. 

Oafts.  (U^fi  Suitte^  Grande  Rue  1,  and  in  the  Arcades ;  C<nfi  de  Rouen^ 
Co^i  dee  TrfbwMwat,^  both  at  the  other  end  of  the  Grande  Rue. 

Oaba  with  seats  for  two  pers.  IV4  fr.  per  drive  (after  midnight  21/2  fr.)i 
IV4  or  S^/s  fr.  per  hr. ;  with  four  seats  IVrS  and  2-4  fr.  respectively. 

Bafht.  Sea-BoXh^  including  tent  and  foot-bath,  76  c.  Hot  Bath,  fresh 
water  1,  with  towels,  etc.,  IV2  fr. ;  salt  water,  IVt,  with  towels,  etc.,  21/4  fr. 

Britiab  mee-Oonanl,  H.  W.  Lee-Jortin^  Beq.y  Rue  du  Faubourg-de-Ia 
Barre  2.  —  TJnitod  Stetea  Oonaular  Agent,  Jf.  R.  Bowgeoitj  Qnai  de  Lille  8. 

—  Lloyd*a  Agent,  M.  R.  Dekwue-Lebim. 

Engliflh  OhmnthM  in  the  Rue  Asseline  and  the  Rue  de  la  Barre. 
The  Carved  Ivorf  and  Laee  of  Dieppe  are  specialties  of  the  place. 

Dieppe,  with  22,440  inhab. ,  is  situated  in  a  valley  formed  by  two 
ranges  of  lofty  white  chalk  -  cliffs ,  at  the  mouth  of  the  ArqtuSy 
which  fonns  a  harbour  capable  of  containing  vessels  of  consider- 
able size.  In  spite  of  the  vicinity  of  Havre,  Dieppe  still  carries  on 
a  considerable  trade  in  boals  with  England  and  in  timber  with 
Norway  and  Sweden.  Fish  is,  however,  the  staple  commodity  of  the 
place.  Dieppe  is  also  a  fashionable  watering-place,  being  annually 
visited  by  numerous  English,  as  well  as  French  families. 

The  Oare  Maritime  (PL  E,  2)  and  the  Steamboat  Quays  are  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  Avant  Port,  or  outer  harbour.  To  the  S.  W.,  beyond 
the  BateimVuqueine  and BenVny,  lies  the  Central  8tation(Ph  G,  3) ; 
and  to  the  £.,  between  the  Bassin  Duquesne,  and  the  suburb  of  Le 
PolUt  (PL  E,  3),  inhabited  by  sailors  and  fishermen  said  to  be  of 
Venetian  origin,  are  several  basins  opened  in  1887. 

Along  the  N.  side  of  the  town ,  between  the  sea  and  the  Rue 
Aguado,  in  which  are  the  principal  hotels,  stretches  La  Plage  (PI.  C, 

D,  E,  1),  a  handsome  marine  park  or  promenade,  2/3  M.  long.  At  its 
W.  extremity  is  the  Casino  or  Etabliaaement  de  Baina  (PI.  C,  1),  the 
principal  attraction  for  visitors,  a  handsome  brick  and  glass  structure 
replete  with  every  convenience  and  including  a  sinall  theatre  (adm. 
in  the  forenoon  50c.,  afternoon  1  fr.,  evening  or  whole  day  3 fr. ;  less 
for  subscribers).  In  front  of  it  are  placed  a)ao\l\.*)ftKi^\!aaSi\K\s^&^^«^'^^^ 
3s  dressing-TooniB,  from  which  the  \)at\iet%  ^^^cexv^  ^'s^  'Csife  ^^^k^  > 

accompADJed  by  a  guide-haigneuf^  M  new^a^^arf .  \w  ^iv^  ^«ai^«t.  -^^ 
scene  is  Yerj  amnsing,  and  novel  ^t\\«:V  to  V\\9^  ^itv^\^\v  ^«v\rx. 


390   Route  26.  DIEPPE.  From  London 

On  a  precipitous  wMte  cliff  at  the  W.  extieniity  of  the  Plage  rises 
the  handsome  Castle  (PL  B,  1,  2),  with  its  massiye  walls,  towers^ 
and  bastions,  erected  in  1435  as  a  defence  against  the  English.  In 
1694,  however,  it  was  unable  to  resist  the  cannonade  of  the  English 
fleet,  then  returning  from  an  unsuccessful  attack  on  Brest,  and  the 
unequal  contest  resulted  in  the  total  destruction  of  the  town.  The 
view  from  the  castle  is  very  extensive. 

The  church  of  St,  Bemy  (PI.  5 ;  G,  2),  not  far  from  the  castle, 
in  a  mixed  style  of  the  16th  and  17th  cent.,  contains  huge  round 
columns  and  some  good  sculptures.  —  The  church  of  8t,  Jac- 
ques (PI.  4;  G,  D,  2),  the  patron-saint  of  fishermen,  in  the  Place 
Nationale,  is  an  interesting  fiorid  Gothic  edifice  dating  from  the 
12-16th  centuries.  It  contains  numerous  rich  sculptures  and  stained- 
glass  windows.  Near  the  church  is  the  Statue  of  Duquesne  (PL  15 ; 
D,  2\  erected  in  1844,  a  celebrated  admiral  and  native  of  Dieppe 
(d.  1687).  —■  To  the  E.  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbour  is  the  modem 
Gothic  church  of  Notre'Dame'de-Bon-Seeours  (PL  F,  2).  The  Mu$6e 
(PL  11 ;  G,  1)  contains  local  antiquities,  a  natural  history  collection, 
and  a  few  pictures,  besides  a  collection  of  art  and  a  library  re- 
cently presented  by  Saint-Saens,  the  composer,  a  native  of  the  town. 

The  most  interesting  point  in  the  environs  of  Dieppe  is  the  rained  castle 
of  Arqnes  (H6tel  du  Chdteauf  Henri  /F.,  nnpretending),  situated  4  H.  to 
the  S.  E.,  and  memorable  as  the  scene  of  a  victory  gained  by  Henri  IV. 
over  the  League  in  1589.  The  excursion  may  be  made  by  train  or  by  omni- 
bus (there  and  back  2  fr.).  The  *View  from  the  castle  embraces  the  val- 
leys of  the  Arques,  the  Bithune^  and  the  Saulne. 

Other  excursions  may  be  made  to  VarangevilUy  Puy$^  0U4  d*  Lime*  or 
Camp  de  Cisafy  and  Bemevdif  all  on  the  coast. 

Fbom  Dibppb  to  Pabis. 

125  M.  Bailwat  via  Rouen  in  SVz-B'A  "^^s.  (fares  18  fr.  90,  12  fr.  80, 
8  fr.  30  c).  —  Another  line  leads  via  Nev^fchdtelt  Ooumapt  OisorSj  and 
Pantoite  (ia  3*/4-5>/4  hrs. ;  fares  the  same). 

Soon  after  quitting  Dieppe  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel, 
upwards  of  1  M.  in  length ,  and  then  enters  the  valley  of  the  Scie, 
which  it  crosses  22  times.  After  passing  several  unimportant  stations, 
it  reaches  (32  M.)  Malaunay  (p.  398  j  Engl.  Ch.  service  by  the 
Rouen  chaplain),  where  the  Rouen-Havre  and  Dieppe  lines  unite. 
From  this  point  to  Rouen  the  district  traversed  is  cheerfol  and 
picturesque,  abounding  in  cotton  and  other  factories. 

38 M.  Boaen.  —  Hotels.   Gband  HStel  D^AMOUBraasB  (PL  a;  G,  D, 

3,  4;,  Gours  Boi'eldieu  7-8^  *HdT.  du  Kobd  (PL  c;  C,8),  Rue  de  la  Oroase- 

Horloge  91 ;  db  Pabis  (PI.  d  \  D,  4),   Quai  de  Paris  51 ;  *HdT.  dr  Fbanck 

(PI.  e;  D,  2),  Rue  des  Garmes  99;  all  these  of  the  first  class,  R.  41^-12  fr. 

(enquiry  should  be  made  beforehand),  d^j.  a  la  carte,  D.  3^/3-6  tr.  —  *H6tbl 

nx  LA  Posts  (PI.  f ;  G,  2),  Rue  3eanne-d'Arc  72,  R.,  L.,  A  A.  firom  3,  D. 

S^/g  fr.  —  HdrsL  d' Albion  iPl.  \>  •,  C,  l')^  ^,xx».\  ^^\v^\>\«%«  16  ^  do  Squabb, 

Bue  Jeanne  d'Arc  91,   pens.    6^j»  it.,  wfcU  %vQ>wfft^  ^^\  's*^  Tifcj»«»  m 

i>*E8PA.GNS  (PI.  i;  D,  8),  Place  de  1?^  ^€v^^\\w^\^^^^^«*2*^^*^^''^ 

^i..  gi  D,  3),  Rue  du  Bi^  IB.2D-,  l.ia«xjx  ^^^'>\?^^VJ^^^>t^^>T\^ 

aerie  4;  du  Chemin-de-Febdb-Dhlppb  C?\-^-.^.^^^^X^J^^ 
R««  V*rt€,  near  the  station  on  the  r^Y^X  \»^^>k^.  ^^^^*^^^^'''^^* 


to  Paris.  ROUEN.  25.  RouU.    391 

RMtooranto.  *  Restaurant  FrangaUy  Bue  Jacqae«-le-Liear  10,  behind 
tbe  Hdtel  d' Angleterre,  high  charges ;  Potnet^  Qua!  de  Paris  34 ;  B6i€l  du 
DaupMn.  see  above  ^  A  la  Porte  de  ParU,  Qnai  de  Paris,  d^.  2Vs)  I>*  ^Vs  fr. ; 
d0  Pwrit,  Rue  de  la  Grosse-Horioge  95  (d^j.  li/i,  D.  lV4-3  fr.). 

Oafte.  De  la  Bourse,  Boieldieu.  Victor^  in  the  Ooors  Boieldieu ;  Houdard, 
Qua!  de  Paris  68;  du  Commerce^  Quai  de  Paris.  —  Brasserie'Restaurant  de 


rEpoquOy  Bne  Gaillaame-le-Gonqairant  11  (PI.  G,  2,  8),  with  a  small  garden 

Eieetrie  Tramways  tra 
tbe  suburbs :  fares  1(h)0  c. 


lieetrie  Tramways  traverse  the  principal  streets  and  also  extend  to 


Oabs.  Per  drive,  IVt  fr.,  per  hour  2  fr.  s  at  night  (12-6  a.m.)  2Vs  or 
3  fr.  —  Each  trunk  20  e. 

Steamboats  to  La  BouUle  (80  c,  60  c.\  Oissel  (40  c),  Dieppedale  (30  c), 
to  ffonfleur  and  Le  Havre  (7  hrs.  *,  6  fr.,  4  fr.),  etc. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices,  Rue  Jeanne  d'Arc  45  (PI.  0,  2). 

British  Consul,  Montague  E.  Loftus^  Esq.  —  Ameriean  Vice  •Consul, 
M.  Dellepiane.  —  Lloyd's  Agent,  Jo?m  Davis  Wake. 

Bnglish  Ohnreh  Berviee  in  All  Saints'*  Churchy  De  Lacroix,  by  the  stone 
bridge.    Wesleiyan  Chweh  in  the  Rue  Grand  Pont. 

JBouen,  the  Roman  Botomagus^  formerly  the  capital  of  Normandy, 
now  that  of  the  Department  of  Selne-Inftfrieure,  with  113,200  in^ 
hab.,  excluslye  of  the  suburbs,  is  a  very  important  cotton  manu- 
facturing place,  sometimes  not  very  aptly  called  the  Manchester  of 
France.  It  is  the  richest  of  French  cities  in  mediasval  arohiteoture, 
though  within  the  last  forty  years  the  construction  of  handsome 
streets  like  those  of  Paris  has  swept  away  most  of  the  quaint  old 
houses  that  abounded  in  the  former  crooked  and  picturesque  but  not 
Tery  healthy  streets.  The  old  walls  of  the  town,  which  bade  defiance 
to  Henry  V.  of  England  in  1415  and  to  Henri  IV.  of  France  in  1592, 
have  been  converted  into  boulevards  planted  with  trees. 

Quitting  the  Qa/re  de  la  Bive  Droite  (PI.  G,  1)  we  turn  to  the 
left  by  the  Rue  Yerte,  cross  the  boulevards,  and  enter  the  handsome 
Rue  Jeanne-^ Arej  which  runs  in  a  straight  line  to  the  Seine.  To 
the  left  is  the  Tow  de  Jeanne  d'Are  (PI.  G,  1),  the  donjon  of  a  castle 
which  was  the  scene  of  the  trial  of  Joan  of  Arc ;  the  tower  in  which 
she  was  imprisoned  was  pulled  down  in  1809.  —  On  the  E.  sidn 
of  the  Jardin  SolfSrino  (PI.  0,  2),  farther  on,  is  the  Mustfe  (p.  393). 

The  *FaIaiB  de  Justice  (PI.  G,  D,  2,  3),  in  the  late  florid 
Gothic  style,  resembles  the  handsome  town-halls  of  Belgium,  al- 
though consisting  of  two  stories  only.  The  central  part  of  the 
edifice  and  the  projecting  wings  form  an  entrance-court,  enclosed 
by  a  railing.  The  left  wing ,  the  Salle  des  Proeureurs  or  des  PaS" 
PerduSf  erected  in  1493,  is  a  spacious  hall  with  a  high-*pitched 
waggon-roof,  once  used  as  an  exchange.  The  central  part  was 
erected  six  years  later,  for  the  Cour  de  VEchiquiery  the  supreme  tri- 
bunal of  Normandy,  which  under  Francis  I.  was  styled  'parlement'. 
The  assizes  are  now  held  here.  The  concierge  lives  in  the  right 
wing,  a  modem  addition. 

Returning  to  the  Rue  Jeanne^d'Arc,  we  descend  it  to  the  first 
street  on  the  left,  which  leads  to  the  Tout  de  la  Qto%%e.  B.ot\ci^^  ^^ 
BefroiCBeUiy,  PL  0,  3),  erected  in  i^B^  ;v.ii^  t^?»\.qi^^  VevV^'^'^^ 
—  Opposite  the  end  of  the  Rne  de  la  Giosae  UotXq^^  yv^^"^  VV^  — 


392  Route  25.  ROUEN.  From  Londtm 

** Cathedral,  or  Notre- Dame  {FL  D,  3},  the  principal  paits 
of  which  date  from  1207-80,  one  of  the  grandest  Gothic  edifices 
in  Normandy,  although  remarkably  unsymmetrical  in  plan.  The 
central  portal  of  the  *W,  Fa^ade^  towards  the  Place,  was  eiaetad  by 
Cardinal  d'Amboise .  the  favourite  minister  of  Louis  Xn. ,  at  the 
beginning  of  the  loth  cent. ,  and  profusely  decorated  in  the  florid 
style.  The  two  unfinished  towers  of  the  facade  are  of  unequal  height. 
The  *Tour  de  Beurre^  the  loftier  and  more  beautiful,  252  ft.  in 
height,  derives  its  name  from  having  been  erected  with  the  money 
paid  for  indulgences  to  eat  butter  during  Lent.  The  other,  the  Tour 
8t,  Bomain,  is  245  ft.  high ;  with  the  exception  of  the  highest  story, 
it  dates  from  the  12th  cent.,  and  is  thus  the  oldest  part  of  the 
whole  building.  The  Central  Tower,  over  the  erossing,  is  soimonnted 
by  an  incongruous  iron  spire  (since  a  fire  in  1822),  which  reaches 
the  height  of  465  ft.  A  spiral  staircase  ascends  to  the  summit  (1-4 
pers.  2  fr.).  The  two  side-portals,  dating  firom  the  15th  oent.,  are 
of  great  interest,  especially  that  on  the  N.,  called  the  ^Portail  dea 
Librairet  from  the  book-stalls  that  once  occupied  the  oouit. 

The  Ihtbbiob  of  the  church  (447  ft.  in  length:  transept  177  fk.  in 
length  *,  nave  and  aisles  106  ft.  in  width  *,  92  ft.  in  height)  is  in  the  early 
pointed  style,  and  possesses  three   fine   rose -windows  in   the   nave  and 


transepts.  Part  of  the  stained  glass  dates  from  the  13th  century.  The  first 
chapel  on  the  right,  in  the  Tour  de  Beurre,  contains  a  large  altar-piece, 
representing  the  Crueifixion  and  the  Martyrdom  of  St  Stephen,  and  also 


several  monuments  of  the  13th  and  14th  centuries.  The  last  chapel  on  the 
S.  side  of  the  nave  contains  the  tomb  of  Rollo  (d.  927),  first  Duke  of  Nor- 
mandy, and  the  corresponding  chapel  on  the  K.  side  that  of  his  son  WUlimmt 
Longue-Epie  (d.  943).  —  From  the  N.  transept  a  beautiful  Gothic  staircase, 
with  open  tracery,  aeccnds  to  the  chapter-library.  —  In  the  S.  ambulatory 
is  an  ancient  mutilated  figure  in  limestone,  7  ft.  in  height,  of  Richard  Contr- 
de-Lion  (d.  1199),  discovered  in  1838  \  his  heart  is  interred  below.  Iks  ori- 
ginal resting-place  in  the  choir  is  indicated  by  a  small  marble  tablet.  In 
the  "S.  ambulatory  is  a  corresponding  (modern)  figure  of  Henry  II.  (d.  1189), 
who  also  is  buried  in  the  choir. 

To  the  right  in  the  beautiful  *Ladp  Ckofiel  is  the  magnificent  *M<mm' 
ment  of  Cardinal  Oeorge  d'Amboise  and  his  nephew,  who  was  also  a  car- 
dinal, by  Roland  LerouXy  erected  in  1525.  To  the  left  is  the  handsome 
*  Monument  of  the  Due  de  Briti  (d.  1630),  grand-seneschal  of  Normandy, 
erected  by  his  widow,  the  celebrated  Diana  of  Poitiers  (d.  1586),  mistreM 
of  Henri  II.,  and  attributed  to  Jean  Cousin  and  Jean  Ooujon  (p.  104).  — 
The  altar-piece,  an  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  is  by  Ph.  de  Champaigne. 

*8t.  Maclou  (PI.  E,  3),  to  the  W.  of  the  cathedral,  beyond  the 
Rue  de  la  R^publique,  ^un  diminutif  de  St.  Ouen',  as  it  has  been 
called,  is  a  very  rich  example  of  the  florid  Gothic  style  of  the  15th 
century.  The  modem  spire  was  completed  in  1869.  The  exquisitely 
carved  reliefs  on  the  wooden  doors  are  ascribed  to  Jean  Goujon. 

The  Rue  de  la  R^publique  descends  to  the  Seine,  which  is  here 
upwards  of  300  yds.  in  breadth  and  separates  Rouen  from  the  sub- 
urb  of  St.  Sever  (PI.  C,  D,  E,  4,  5).   The  Quays  extend  along  the 
bank  for  P/2^'  The  Pont CornciUc 01  PoaldtPxmt^l. D, 4"),  con- 
structed in  i829,  passes  o\ei  tYveVoN^ei  feTv\ol^felUliQ«««x^^\«K. 
there  is  a  statue  of  ComtxVU  (5.  ^^^^,  \>^  1>b.nV\  « K^%«%.  ^«SSa^^^ 
down  the  river  is  the  Pont  Boieldicu  ^^\.\>,  ^\  %.  V%s.^^^w.  \s^^ 


to  Paris.  ROUEN.  25.  BouU,   393 

bridge,  erected  in  1885-88,  nearly  opposite  which  is  a  statue  of  the 
composer  Bdieldieu  (d.  1834).  Adjacent  are  the  TJUdtre  dea  Arts 
(PI.  12;  D,  3, 4)  and  the  Bourse^  which  comprizes  also  the  Tribunal 
de  Commerce.  Still  farther  down  is  a  ^Pont  Trafuibordeur\  or  moving 
bridge  slang  from  two  lofty  towers. 

The  Rne  Jeanne-d'Arc  (p.  391)  leads  from  the  quay  into  the 
town,  passing  the  church  of  8t.  Vincent  (PI.  0,  3),  a  pretty  Gothic 
building  of  the  16th  cent.,  with  a  17th  cent,  tower  and  fine  stained- 
glass  windows  (16th  cent.).  Farther  on  is  the  handsome  Tour 
St.  Andri  (PI.  0,3),  a  relic  of  an  old  church  of  the  15-16th  centuries. 

The  Rue  des  Ours  leads  to  the  W.  from  this  point  to  the  Place 
de  la  Pucelle  fPl.  0,  3),  the  traditional  scene  of  the  burning  of 
Joan  of  Arc  in  1431.  It  is  believed,  however,  that  the  exact  spot  of 
the  elocution  was  a  little  higher  up,  in  the  Place  du  Vieux-March^ 
(PI.  0,  3),  where  the  Thidtre  Fran^aie  now  stands.  The  house  in 
which  Comeme  (1606-1684)  was  bom  is  No.  4,  Rue  de  Oomeille, 
beyond  the  Place  (PI.  B,  3). 

The  *H6tel  du  Bourgtlifooiilde  (PI.  0, 3),  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
Place  de  la  Pucelle,  erected  at  the  close  of  the  15th  cent. ,  in  the 
style  of  the  Palais  de  Justice,  is  adorned  with  a  number  of  reliefs, 
some  of  which  represent  the  interview  on  the  *Field  of  the  Cloth  of 
Gold*  (1520).  The  graceful  hexagonal  tower  is  decorated  with  sculp- 
tures. The  building  is  now  occupied  by  a  bank ,  but  the  court  is 
open  to  the  public  on  week-days  (on  Sun.  apply  to  the  concierge). 

From  the  Vieux  March^  (see  above)  the  Rue  Guillaume  le  Con- 
qu^rant  leads  back  to  the  Rue  Jeanne-d'Arc,  which  we  follow  to  the 
N.  to  the  Jardin  Solftfrino.    Here  stands  the  — 

Mnsie-Bibliothique  (PI.  C,2),  containing  a  collection  of  Italian, 
Dutch,  and  modern  French  pictures,  besides  sculptures  and  a  ceramic 
collection.  The  Mus^e  is  open  daily  from  10  (on  Mon.  ftom  12)  to  4 
or  5;  gratis  on  Thurs.,  Sun.,  and  holidays,  other  days  1  fr.  —  The 
Municipal  Library  (open  daily,  10-5),  in  the  building  at  the  back  of 
the  Mustfe,  contains  132,000  printed  vols.,  3500  MSS.,  2700  coins 
and  medals,  and  about  2000  portraits  of  eminent  natives  of  Normandy. 

The  adjacent  church  of  8t,  Laurent  (PI.  D,  2;  15-16th  cent.), 
with  a  fine  tower,  has  been  converted  into  shops.  The  church  of 
-Sfi-Godord  (PI.  D,2),  behind  St  Laurent,  partly  of  the  16th  cent.,  con- 
tains admirable  modem  stained-glass  windows  and  mural  paintings. 
.  From  the  Mus€e  the  Rue  Thiers  leads  to  the  E.  to  the  Place  de 
V HtUl-de^nUe.   Here  stands — 

•^t.  Ouen  (PI.  D,  E,  2),  one  of  the  most  beautiful  Gothic  churches 
in  existence,  surpassing  the  cathedral  both  in  extent  and  in  ex- 
cellence of  style.  Most  of  it  was  built  in  1318-39,  but  the  W.  Portal, 
flanked  by  two  towers  282  ft.  in  height, 'w^a  ei^^\fe^^\sx«v^'v^'^. 
piesent  century.  The  *Tower  over  the  tiMi^e^X.,  'iSfc  IV.  \».V^^5^^ 
fs  surmounted  by  an  octagonal  open-woT\L\axi\.ftm,\fcxm\\\a.\Vi^^ 
gallery  (*View).    The  N.   facade  ^w  no  Aa\«.^tfi  \^^'^^>^^'^'^'^  ^  * 


394  RouU  25.  ROUEN.  From  London 

*^Portail  des  MofmouaeW,  so  called  from  the  heads  with  which  it 
is  adorned,  deserves  minute  inspection.  The  reliefs  oyer  the  door 
represent  the  Death  and  Assumption  of  the  Virgin.  Above  this 
portal  is  a  magnificent  rose- window,  still  higher  is  an  axoade  with 
six  statues ,  and  the  whole  is  crowned  with  a  pediment  bearing  a 
statue  of  8t,  Ouen  (d.  678),  Archbishop  of  Rouen. 

The  proportions  of  the  interior  (453ft.  in  length,  Sift,  in  width ^ 
transept  138  ft  in  length;  106  ft.  in  height)  are  remarkably  pleasing. 
The  walls  appear  to  be  almost  entirely  displaced  by  the  nomerons 
windows,  135  in  number,  all  filled  with  stained  glass.  The  unasmally 
lofty  triforinm  is  exceedingly  beantifnl.  In  the  nave  and  transepts  are 
three  fine  rose-windows,  also  filled  with  stained  glass. 

The  verger  (fee)  shows  the  choir  -  chapels ,  and  points  oat  several 
spots  which  command  fine  views  of  the  interior.  The  whole  of  the 
interior  Is  reflected  In  the  b^nitler  near  the  W.  door.  The  visitor  should 
ascend  to  the  triforinm  and  to  the  outer  gallery  (1  fr.  each  person). 

At  the  back  of  the  church  and  the  adjoining  H6tel  de  Yille  is  a 
pleasant  garden  to  which  the  public  are  admitted.  The  Chambre  aux 
Clercs,  a  Norman  tower  of  the  ilth  cent.,  adjoins  the  church  on 
this  side,  and  probably  formed  part  of  an  earlier  chnrch. 

The  H6tel  de  YiUe  (PI.  D,  E,  2),  on  the  N.  side  of  the  church, 
a  building  in  the  Italian  style,  was  formerly  part  of  the  monastery 
of  St.  Ouen.  In  front  of  the  edifice  rises  an  Equeairian  8tatue  of 
Napoleon  J.,  by  Vital-Dubray. 

We  now  ascend  the  Rue  de  la  R^publique  to  the  N.,  at  the  top 
of  which  is  the  large  ^Fontaine  Ste.  Marie  (PI.  D,  1),  by  Falgui^ie 
and  Deperthes.  To  the  left  is  an  old  convent,  now  containing  the 
*Mu$eum  of  Antiquities  (open  daily ,  10  to  4  or  6 ,  except  on  Mon. 
and  Sat.)  and  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  (open  daily,  10  to  4 
or  5;  on  Mon.  from  12). 

The  church  of  8t,  Patrice  (PI.  0,  2),  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the 
Jardin  Solf^rino,  contains  magnificent  stained-glass  windows,  some 
dating  from  the  16-17th  centuries.  The  allegorical  window  at  the 
end  of  the  N.  aisle,  attributed  to  Jean  Cousin^  is  considered  the 
best.  —  8t.  Oervais  (PI.  A,  1),  about  3/^  M.  farther  to  the  W.,  is  a 
Romanesque  church  rebuilt  in  1872-74,  with  a  curious  old  crypt  of 
the  4th  century.  William  the  Conqueror  died  here  in  1087. 

An  interesting  excursion  may  be  made,  either  by  steamer  to  JStmpUt 
(16  c.)  and  thence  by  cable-railway  ^c.  up  and  down),  or  direet  firom 
Rouen  by  electric  tramway  (60c.),  to  the  pilgrimage-church  of  JTofrs-DflSM- 
de-BofhSeeourtf  or  simply  *Bon-8eeonre  a9  it  is  usually  eaUed,  aitoated 
on  the  lofty  bank  of  the  river,  2  H.  above  Rouen.  The  interior  is  lavishly 
adorned  with  painting,  gilding,  marble,  and  stained  glass.  Beside  the 
church  is  the  MoNuifENT  of  Joan  of  Abo  (adm.  26  c.;  dosed  12-1.80),  which 
consists  mainly  of  three  elegant  little  Renaissance  buUdincs  by  Lisch, 
connected  by  a  platform.  The  '^View  from  the  platform  embraces  the 
vity,  the  course  of  the  river  for  many  miles  above  and  below  Rouen,  and 
in  the  distance  the  rich  auA.  vetdaut  pastures  of  Normandy. 

A  pleasant  steamboatrexcutaVou  ma.^  \i^  \a:M5!v  Vi  La  BowiBt,  a  smaU 
hat  busy  town,  12V2  M.  below  B.o\3LfttL.  1C;\i«kCh&Ua*^B^»wVUW«M«^the 
-canty  ruins  of  which  occxip7  ^^«^  ^^^   ^\^  ^'^^w^'^^^^S^ ^^^n.. 
•  chaVming  view  of  the  wooa.e(V  ^^^^*  ^  ^^^^'^^^l  ^i^^^S^^^ 
^hitc  chalk  hills,  and  in  i\xft  A\t^\Anc.^  ^otv^tv  ^^\\v  N\i^  «»«ft«.V 


to  Paris.  LES  ANDELYS.  25.  Route.   395 

Fbom  Roubn  to  Pabis.  The  train  passes  through  two  long 
tunnels  and  crosses  the  Seine,  affording  a  beautifol  view  of  Rouen 
to  the  right.  To  the  left,  on  the  hills  which  rise  from  the  river, 
stands  the  church  of  Bon-Seeours,  39  V4  M.  SotteviUe.  From  (44  M.) 
OUsel  a  branch-line  runs  to  £^«u^  (Grand-H6tel ;  Univers),  6  M. 
distant,  a  cloth -manufacturing  town,  with  21,400  inhabitants. 
Beyond  Oissel  the  train  crosses  the  Seine.  —  48Y2  ^*  ^o^^  ^^ 
I'Arehe  (*Hdt.  de  Normandie) ,  where  the  Seine  is  again  crossed, 
aboTe  the  influx  of  the  Eure ,  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Oiaors ; 
it  possesses  a  fine  church  of  the  15-1 6th  centuries.  —  56  M. 
8t,  Pierre-du^Vauvray ,  whence  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Louviers 
(H6tel  du  Mouton),  a  town  of  9979  inhab.  with  large  cloth-factories. 

Another  branch -line  runs  hence  to  (10  M.)  Les  Andelya  (Hdt.  de 
Paru;  Chains  (FOr;  Grand  Cerf)^  near  which,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Seine,  are  the  mins  of  the  castle  of  Oaillard^  erected  by  Richard  Cosar- 
de-Lion  to  command  the  navigation  of  the  Seine  and  protect  Kormandy 
against  the  French  monarchs.    'It  was  destroyed  by  Henri  IV.  in  1668. 

The  train  now  penetrates  the  chalk-hills  by  means  of  two  tunnels. 

The  station  of  (64  M.)  OaiUon  (H6t.  d'Evreux)  lies  opposite  the 
village  of  CoureeUea.  The  chateau  of  Gaillon ,  erected  in  1500,  and 
now  used  as  a  prison,  was  one  of  the  finest  in  Normandy,  and  a  fa- 
vourite residence  of  Francis  I.  The  lofty  facade  has  been  removed 
to  the  court  of  the  Ecole  des  Beaux-Arts  at  Paris  (p.  249). 

751/2  M.  Vernon  (Hdtel  d'Evreux),  with  8288  inhab.,  once  a 
strongly-fortified  town,  possesses  a  conspicuous  tower,  erected  in 
1 123  by  Henry  I.  of  England.  The  Church  of  Notre-Dame  is  an  inter- 
esting building  of  the  12-15th  centuries.  Branch-lines  to  GUors 
and  to  Paey^aur'-I^Eure  diverge  here.  To  the  left  are  the  ruins  of 
the  castle  of  Chdteaurheufj  constructed  by  Philip  Augustus. 

The  long  tunnel  between  (82  M.)  Bonnihres  and  RolUboise  cuts 
off  tiie  wide  circuit  which  the  river  describes  here. 

At  the  ohiteau  of  (84  M.)  Bosny,  Sully,  the  celebrated  minister 
of  Henri  lY.,  was  bom  in  1559.  It  was  afterwards  the  property  of 
the  Duchesse  de  Berri,  who  resided  in  it  from  1818  to  1830. 

92^2  M.  Hantes  (Hdtel  du  Grand  Cerf),  a  picturesque  town  with 
8000  inhab.,  is  sumamed  ^La  Jolie\  The  lofty  towers  of  the  Gothic 
church  of  ^NoUre'Dame,  dating  from  the  end  of  the  12th  cent. ,  are 
conspicuous  objects  in  the  town.  The  portal  is  richly  sculptured. 
The  old  tower  of  8i.  Maclou ,  14th  cent. ,  is  also  interesting.  It 
was  at  Mantes  that  William  the  Conqueror  received  by  a  fall  from 
his  horse  the  injury  of  which  he  afterwards  died  at  Rouen  (1087). 
—  Line  to  Paris  via  Argenteuil,  see  p.  343. 

The  line  continues  to  skirt  the  banks  of  the  Seine ,  and  f re* 
quently  commands  fine  views.     Several  unimportant  stations. 

108  M.  PoiBsy  (Buffet;  Hdtel  de  Eouen),  a.  Vi-«m  ^VCa.  "l^^^  ^x- 


hab, ,  WS8  the  birtbphoe  of  St.  Louis  (^1*11^-1^^ ,  ^"Wq  Vt^o^'so.^^ 

fftjried  himself  'Louia  de  Poissy'.     Heie  in  \b^V  ^  ^wA«t«v^^^  ^^ 

assembled  by  order  of  the  States  General,  wi^iK  ^  M\e.^  \.Q  ^.^V^^^*^^^ 


396  Route  ^5.  POISSY.  From  London 

differences  betweeu  the  Roman  Catholic  and  Protestftnt  partleB. 
Their  deliberations ,  howeyer,  led  to  no  lesnlti  owing  to  the  ttrong 
condemnation  of  the  Galvinists  by  the  Sorbonne.  —  The  prindpal 
church  is  a  fine  building  of  the  transition-style  of  the  12th  centniy. 
Poissy  is  also  a  station  on  the  Llgne  de  Grande  Geintnie  (p.  333). 

Ill  M.  Aehhresj  in  the  forest  of  St.  Germain  (p.  333),  the  Junc- 
tion of  the  direct  line  to  Dieppe  (yih  Pontoise,  p.  344).  At  (114  M.) 
Maisons'LaffitU  (p.  344)  the  Seine  is  again  crossed.  Near  (,120  M.) 
Colorribes  the  line  recrosses  the  Seine.  St.  Germain  with  Its  palace 
is  a  conspicuous  object  on  the  hill  to  the  right. 

The  Seine  is  crossed  for  the  last  time  at  AarUire*  (p.  291),  wliere 
the  lines  to  Argenteuil  and  Versailles  diyerge.  The  train  passes  CUefty, 
intersects  the  fortifications  of  Paris,  and  beyond  a  short  tnnnel  under 
the  Place  de  PEurope  reaches  the  Gare  St.  Lazare  at  — 

125  M.  Paris.   Conveyances,  see  p.  1. 

26.  By  Southampton,  Havre,  and  Eonen. 

342  M.  By  Railway  from  Waterloo  Station  to  SouthampUm  in  i*/4-3V4 
hrs.  Cboat-train^  at  9.50  p.m. ;  see  advertisementa  in  ^Bradshaw*);  by  Stkam- 
BOAT  to  Havre  every  night  (except  San.)  in  7-8  hrs. ;  by  Bxpsxsa  from 
Havre  to  Paris  in  3Vx  hrs.  (quick  trains,  4Vx  hrs. ;  ordinary  tndna,  6-7  hrs.). 
Omnibus  from  the  quay  to  the  station  at  Havre  included  in  the  fure.  Single 
tickets,  available  for  seven  days,  33<.  iOd.and  24s.  iOd. ;  return-tickets,  aTaD- 
able  for  one  month,  66<.  Sd.  and  40«.  8<f.  Luggage  may  be  registered  direct 
to  Paris.  —  This  route  is  pleasant  in  fine  weather. 

Le  Havre.  —  Hotels.  Obaxtd  HOtkl  Fsaboatx  (PL  B,  4),  ob  the 
beach,  far  from  the  centre  of  the  town,  B.  from  4,  d^.  4,  D.  6  £r.  (  VairoK 
HousB  (PI.  a;  B,  4),  Bue  Jeanne-d'Arc  3;  CosTimcNTAL  (PL  b;  CL  4),  <>P~ 
posite  the  Jet^e,  these  three  of  the  first  class ;  ds  Bobdxaux  (PL  A\  C,  9), 
Place  Gambettat  DS  I^oemandib  (PI.  e.',  C,  3),  Bue  de  Paris  106  (  d^Ahq- 
LETEBRB  (PI.  f  ^  G,  2),  Bue  de  Paris  124)  Tobtoni  (PL  g\  0,  8),  PlaoeGun- 
betta;  Bichelibd  (PL  h;  ^i  3)^  Place  Bichelieu,  near  the  office  of  the 
railway-omnibus;  Aiglb  d^Ob  (PL  j-,  G,  4),  Bue  de  Paris  82.  B.  94  f^.-, 
dbDieppb,  Bue  de  Paris  76  j  des  Indbs,  Grand  Quai  66;  dbs  Arnma  dsla 
ViLLB  (PL  k;  G,  4),  Bue  d'£stimauville  29. 

Restaurants.  At  the  H6t.  de  Bordeauxy  see  above  \  TorUnU^  in  the  Ar- 
cades  of  the  Place  Gambetta,  d^j.  3,  D.  4  fr.,  incl.  wine^  H&t,  d»  FASgle 
d'Ofy  see  above;  Plat  d^ Argent^  Place  Bichelieu,  d^j.  I'/i,  D.  2>/«  fr.,  beer 
or  cider  included. 

Oafes.  Tortoni^  see  above*,  Cafi  de  FEdtel  FraeeaH^  see  abore^  Inter- 
national^ Ouillaume  Tell,  Place  de  rudtel-de-Ville;  de  Parity  Place  Bichelieu. 

Cabs.  In  the  town,  per  drive  1  fr.  25  c.,  per  hr.  2  fr.  (after  midnight  2 
and  3  fr.);  on  the  heights  as  far  as  the  octroi-limits,  per  drive  is/4,  per  hr. 
21/4  fr.  (after  midnight  2>/t  and  3  fr.);  to  8te  Adresse  (Le  Carreau),  per 
drive  l»/4,  per  hr.  2V4  fr.  (3  fr.  at  night).    Trunks,  20,  80,  or  fiO  c. 

Electric  Tramways  in  the  principal  streets  and  to  the  environs.  — 
Cable  Bailways  from  the  lower  station,  Bue  Gustave-Flaubert  (PL  D,  1), 
to  the  upper  station.  Rue  de  la  Odte  44  (fare  10  c),  and  from  the  Rue 
de  Normandie  to  the  Gimeti^re  Ste.  Marie. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offtoe  CPL  G,  D,  2),  Boul.  de  Strasbourg  108  and  110. 
Steamboats,   starting  from  V)i«  Q^xax^^  <^>\«.S.  ^¥1.  G^  D,  4),  to  Honfleur, 
Rouen,  Trouville,  Gaen,  8o\il\iamp\otv.,li0^dLQnB.>^«^  ^w^^'^fc» 

British  Oonaiil-General,  E. Cecil Hcvt»Ul,Eyi.;N\t.^-^i««^^JJ^^ 
^•fg.  (also  JLloyds  agent).  -  Amexica-u  ^^^^^^^^^  ^*  ^^SSSwSi^v., 
^     EvgliBh  Church  (Holy  TT\n\l>>,  ^ne  ?l^  ^^t\^^.  -  ^t'Wi*  »«^^^' 
Chapel,  Place  Gambetta. 


to  ParU.  LE  HAVRE.  26.  Route.   397 

Le  Havre f  formerly  called  Havre-de-Ordcey  from  a  chapel  ol 
Notre-Dame-de-Grace  founded  by  Louis  XII.  in  1509,  was  fortified 
by  Francis  I.  in  1516.  It  is  noYf  the  seaport  for  Paris,  and  next  to 
Marseilles  the  most  important  in  France  (119,470  inhab.).  The 
buildings  and  the  commercial  prosperity  of  the  town,  which  is  mainly 
derived  from  its  ship-building  yards  and  sugar-refineries,  are  of  very 
recent  origin. 

The  Rue  de  Paris^  beginning  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Orand  Quai 
(PI.  C,  4),  where  passengers  from  England  disembark,  and  inter- 
secting the  town  from  S.  to  N.,  is  the  centre  of  traffic.  The  quay 
is  continued  to  the  W.  by  the  Ghausstfe  des  Etats-Unis,  terminating 
in  the  *Jetie  du  Nord  (PI.  B,  5>  or  N.  pier,  near  the  Hdtel  Fras- 
cati,  which  commands  a  fine  view,  and  is  a  favourite  promenade. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Rue  de  Paris  rises  the  Musie-Bibliothhque 
rPl.  0,  4),  built  in  1845  (open  on  Sun.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.,  10  to 
4  or  5),  containing  a  collection  of  paintings,  sculptures,  casts,  coins, 
etc.,  and  a  library  of  50,000  volumes. 

Farther  up  the  Rue  de  Paris,  on  the  right,  is  the  church  ot  Notre- 
Dame  (PI.  C,  4),  built  in  the  16th  cent,  in  a  transition  style. 
Farther  on  is  the  Plaee  Oambetta  (PI.  C,  3),  bounded  on  the  W.  by 
the  Chrand  Thidtrej  and  embellished  with  statues  by  David  d' Angers 
of  Bemofdin  de  8t.  Pierre  (1737-1814),  author  of  *Paul  and  Virginia', 
to  which  the  reliefs  refer,  and  Casimir  Delavigr^e  (1794-1843),  the 
dramatist,  both  natives  of  Havre.  —  At  the  W.  end  of  the  Rue  de 
Paris  is  a  Jardin  PubliCf  beyond  which  is  the  handsome  modern 
Hdtel  deVaU  (PLC,  2). 

The  former  Palais  de  Justice,  in  the  Vieux  March^  (PI.  C,  4),  to  the 
left  of  the  Bue  de  Paris,  now  contains  an  important  Museum  of  Natural 
ffiitorp  (open  on  San.  and  Thurs.,  10  to  4  or  5). 

The  BouLBVABD  DB  Stbasboubg  (pi.  F-A,  2),  which  passes  in 
front  of  the  H6tel  de  VlUe,  stretches  from  the  Railway  Station  (Pl. 
F,  2),  on  theE.,  to  the  sea,  on  theW.,  passing  the  Palais  de 
Justice^  the  Sous-Prifecture  ^  and  the  Bouraey  a  fine  Renadssance 
edifice  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Place  Camot  (PI.  D,  2). 

The  extensive  Habboxjb  and  Docks  fPl.  C-G,  2-5)  deserve  a 
viiit.  Between  1837  and  1887  over  5000,000^  were  spent  upon 
them,  and  extensive  additions  are  projected.  The  oldest  dock  is  the 
small  Bassin  du  Roi,  excavated  in  1669.  The  largest  is  the  Bassin 
de  VEure(Pl.  E,  F,  3,  4,  5),  70  acres  in  area,  constructed  in  1846-56, 
where  the  huge  Transatlantic  steamers  lie.  The  Canal  de  Tancarville 
was  constructed  to  connect  the  Seine  directly  with  the  harbour,  and 
to  enable  ships  to  escape  the  'barre'  or  tidal  wave  in  the  estuary. 

As   Havre  itself  contains   little   to   interest   travellers,    those 
who  have  a  few  hours  at  their  disposal  may  ascend  the  C6te  d^In- 
gouviUe  (cable-rAilwayf  p.  396),  on  the  "N .   T\ift  *N\^^  \"3.  's.^^^^J^^ 
fine  at  sunset  a::d  at  i.i.irht  when  the  tov»n  a.u^ \sLVt\>wv\  ^ct^X'v^.^^- 
—  An  electric  tnmw&y(p.  396),  starting  from  t\lfe^OTv^-^^^^^^^^'^^^^ 


398   RouU  26,  LE  HAVRE. 

to  Ste.  Achrease  (H6tel  Marie- Christine ;  H6tel  des  Pharea),  a  favoorite 
little  bathing-place  21/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  YiBitors  thonld  alight  at  the 
*Qaatre  Chemins*  or  the  Rne  des  Bains,  and  proceed  to  the  light- 
honse,  Pkare  de  la  Bhve,  which  commands  a  fine  view. 

Steamers  ply  three  or  four  times  daily  from  Havre  in  t/t-i  lir.  (farea  3  fr., 
1  fr.  60,  85  c.)  to  Troaviile-snr.Ker  (Bdtelt  des  Roches-Noires,  de  Pari*,  BeUe- 
nte^  de  la  Plage^  on  the  beach ;  Tivoli^  Brat  d'Or,  in  the  town),  pleasantly 
situated  at  the  month  of  the  Touquet  and  now  the  most  fashionable  water- 
ing place  on  the  coast  of  Normandy.  Pop.  6900.  The  season  lasts  from  Jnne 
to  Oct.,  and  is  at  its  height  in  Aug.,  when  living  here  is  extremely  ex- 
pensive. The  Ceuino  or  Salon  is  a  large  and  handsome  straetare,  with 
concert-rooms,  ball-rooms,  and  a  fine  terrace  on  the  shore.  The  beach  is 
excellent.  A  number  of  handsome  villas  have  sprung  np  in  the  environs. 
—  DeauviUe  (Hdtel  da  Casino)  and  a  number  of  less  pretending  watering- 
places  sprinkled  along  the  coast  also  afford  good  snmmer-quartert  (see 
Baedeker^g  Northern  France). 

F&OM  Havre  to  Pabis. 

142  M.  Railway  in  3Vf-7V«  hrs.  (fares  25  fr.  65,  17  fr.  26,  11  fr. 
25  c).  —  Steamboat  up  the  Seine  to  Rouen  daily  6-7  hrs.  (fkrea  6  and 
4  fr.),  tedions,  but  scenery  very  pleasing  at  places. 

The  railway -station  at  Havre  is  near  the  Cours  de  la  Rtfpnb- 
llqne.  On  quitting  the  station  we  observe  OramUe,  with  its  onrions 
chnrch  of  the  11th  cent.,  on  the  high  ground  to  the  left. 

372  ^*  i?ar^eur  (H6t.  des  Armes),  the  first  station,  once  an  im- 
portant seaport,  has  long  since  yielded  np  its  traffic  to  Havre.  Its 
old  harbour  has  been  filled  up  by  the  deposits  of  the  LSsarde ;  the 
new  harbour,  1/2  M.  away,  is  connected  with  the  Canal  de  Tanear- 
ville  (p.  397).  In  1415  the  town  was  taken  by  Henry  V.  of  En^and, 
to  whom  the  foundation  of  the  fine  Gothic  church  is  attributed.  From 
Harfleur  a  branch-line  runs  to  (21/4  M.)  MontiviUiers,  an  industrial 
town  with  an  old  abbey-church.  —  Beyond  (15^2  M.)  BefueviUe' 
BrSauUy  from  which  a  branch-line  runs  to  (872  M.)  LiUebonne  (Hd- 
tel de  France),  the  train  crosses  a  lofty  viaduct. 

191/2  M.  Bolbec'Nointot  is  the  station  for  Bolbee^  a  thriving  manu- 
facturing town  with  12,240  inhab. ,  2  M.  to  the  S. 

31  M.  Tvetot  (Hotel  des  Yictoires)  is  another  manufacturing 
place,  with  7545  inhab.,  the  ancient  counts  or  soi-disants  kings  of 
which  are  playfully  described  by  B^ranger. 

36  M.  Moiieville  is  connected  with  the  Dieppe  railway  by  a 
branch-line  to  Cl^ea  (16  M.).    Another  branch  runs  to  (20  M.)  8t, 
Valiry-en-CauXf  frequented  as  a  bathing-place.  —  The  pleasant  vil- 
lage of  (42V2  ^0  Pavilly  is  commanded  by  the  restored  chiteau  of 
Eaneval.   The  train  quits  the  undulating  and  fertile  table -land  of 
the  Pays  de  Caux^  and  descends  to  the  viaduct  of  Barcntin,  570  yds. 
in  length,  and  100  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  valley.   From  (44  M.) 
Barentin  a  branch-line  luna  to  (18  M.^  Caudebee.   The  train  soon 
enters  a  tannel,  nearly  i^|«ili.  \iv\ei\^,\iwjwA^\iNs38LMtftache8 
(49 M, )  Afalaunay,  where  theDie^^ft  ^xve^  ^^«t^^^.  ^^Ta^^Qga^^ 
to  (55  M.)  Eouen.  and  to  Paris  (14^^,  iT^m^*:^^'^^  ^^^^^.'^'^V-^^. 


LIST 

of  the  most  important  Artists  mentioned  in  the  Handbook,  with  a 
note  of  the  schools  to  which  they  belong. 

Abbrdvlationa :  A  =  architect:  P.  =  painter^  S.  =  sculptor;  c,  ca. 
s  circa,  about;  Fr.  ss  French;  Bol.  =  Bolognese;  Flor.  =  Florentine; 
Perr.  =  Ferrarese;  Lomb.  =  Lombardic;  Neap.  =  Neapolitan;  Rom.  = 
Koman;  Yen.  s=  Venetian,  etc. 

The  Arable  numerals  enclosed  within  brackets  refer  to  the  art  notices 
throughout  the  Handbook,  the  Roman  figures  to  the  Introduction. 


AMa/c,  Jfic.  d€ll\  Lomb.  P.;  1612-71. 
Adam^  Jean-Viet.^  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  Meynier  A  Begnaultx  1801-66. 
— .    Lamb,'Sigi*b.^    Fr.   8.,   Nancy; 

Aiselin,  JFtt^.,  Fr.  8..  Paris,  pupil  of 

Bamey  A  Dumont;  b.  1821. 
Alaux.  Jean,  Fr.  P.,  Bordeaux,  pupil 

of  Vincent;  1786-1864. 
AlbanOj  Franc.  Bol,  P.,  pupil  of  Car- 

racci;  1578-1680. 
Albertmelli,  MarioUc^  Flor.  P.,  pupil 

of  Bosselli  and  Fra  Bartolommeo ; 

1474-1516. 
Atlegrain^    Gabriel -ChrUt.,    Fr.   S.; 

1710-96. 
Atlegri,  see  Correggio. 
Amaury-Duvaly  JBu(f,'Emm..    Fr.  P., 

Paris,  pupil  of  Ingres;  1808-85. 
AtnerigM^  see  Garavaggio. 
Androuet^  see  Ducerceau. 
Angelieo  f/hih  da  Fiesole,  Flor.  P. ; 

1387-1455. 
AngCt  Roger^  Fr.  A^  15-16th  cent. 
Anguier.  Franfoie.  Fr.  8.,  Eu :  1604- 

— ,  Michel^  Fr.  8.,  brother  of  the  last; 

1612-86. 
AntoneUo^  lee  Messina. 
Audran^  Oirard.    Fr.    engraver, 

Lyons;  1640-1703. 
— ,  Claude.  Fr.  P.,  brother  of  the  last ; 

17th  cent 

BakhuUM.LudoJ/yDntch'P.,  Emden, 
pupil  of  A.  van  Eyerdingen;  1631- 
17(6. 
Ballu,  Thicdore,  Fr.  A.,Paris ;  1817-86. 
Baltard.rietor,  Fr.A.,  Paris;  1805-74. 
Balte,  J€an^Et,-Paul,  Fr.  P.,  pupil  of 

Ingres;  1815-84. 
— ,  Jtath'MU.'Jiapmond.  Fr.P.,  brother 
of  the  Jasti  b.  1818, 
Barbarelii,  gee  Glorgione. 
SarMeH,  aee  Onercino. 


Baroecio,  Federigo.  Rom.  P.;   1528- 

1612. 
Barriae^  FHix^os.y  Fr.P.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  L.  Cogniet;  b.  1822. 
— ,  Louis-Emeet^  Fr.  8.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  Cavelier  A  Jouffroy;  b.  1841. 
BartholdLFrid,-AMg.,  Fr.S.,  Colmar : 

b.  1884. 
Bartolomeo  (Fra).  Baeeio  delta  Por- 
ta, Flor.  P. ;  1475-1517. 
Barye,  Ant.-Louis.Fr.  S^  pupil  of  Bo- 

sio  and  Gros;  1796-1875. 
BashkirUeff,  Marie,  Rus3.  P. ;  18C0-84. 
Baesano^  Jacopo  (da  Ponte),  Ven.  P. ; 

1510-92. 
Baetien-Lepage ,  J..  Fr.  P.,  Damvil- 

lers  (Meuse);  1848^. 
Baudoin,  Pierre-Ant.,   Fr.P.,  Paris, 

pupil  of  Boucher ;  1723-69. 
Baudry,  Paul-Jacq.-Aimi,  Fr.  P.,  La 

Roche-sur-Yon ,   pupil  of  Sartoris 

&  Drolling;  1828-86. 
Beham,  JSansSebald,Qer.'P.,'SviTem.- 

berg;  1500-50?. 
Bellangi,    Joe.-Louis-Hipp,,    Fr.   P., 

pupil  of  Gros;  1800-66. 
Bellini,  Gentile,  Ven.  P.;  1421?- 1507. 
— ,  CHovanni,  Ven.  P.,  brother  of  the 

last;  1426-1516. 
Beltraffio  or   Boltraffio^   CHov,-Ant., 

Milanese  P.,  pupil  of  L.  da  Vinci ; 

1467-1516. 
Benouville, Franf.-Lion.Vr.  P., Paris, 

pup.  of  Picot;  1821-69.  —  (p.  xliii). 
B^raud,  Jean,  Fr.  P.,  St.  Petersburg; 

b.  1849. 
Berehem  or  Berghem,Ifie.,  Dutch  P., 

Haariem;  1620-83. 
Berrettini,  see  Cnrtona. 
Beriin,Frangois-Edouard,  Fr.P. ,  Paris ; 

i79..181[i. 
Besnard.  Poul-AlbeTi^  "Et.  ^ ».,  ^^x\^\ 

Bida,  Alex.,  'Bt.'?,,^«^^^^^^^  ^^"^^^ 
of  De\aeto\x%Ve>V^-^- 


400 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


mondel^  Merty-Jot.,   Fr.  P.,    Paris, 

pupil  of  Regnanlt;  178M853. 
Boitlpy  LouU  Liop.,  Vt.  p.  ;  1761-1845. 
5oJ,    Ferd.j   Dutch   P.,    Dordrecht, 

pupil  of  Rembrandt^  1611-81. 
Bologna^  Oiov,  da,  also  called  Jean 

(Boullogne)  de  Douai^  8.,  Douai, 

pupil  of  Michael  Angelo;  1624-1608. 
Bonheur^  Rota,    Fr.  P.,    Bordeaux: 

1822-99. 
Bonifasio  or   Bonifacio^    three  Yen. 

painters;  ca.  1540-1580. 
Bonington,  Richard  Parket.  Engl.  P. : 

1801-28. 
Bonncutieux^  Jean-UaiHe^  Fr.  S.,  pupil 

of  Dumont;  1810-92. 
Bonnat^  Lton-Joseph-Florentin^Vr.  P., 

Bayonne,  pupil  of  Cogniet*,  b.  1833. 
Bontemps,  Piet-re^  Fr.  8.,  Paris;  16th 

cent. 
Bordone,  Paris,  Ven.  P.;  1500-70. 
Borgognone.    Ambrogio  da  Fossano, 

Lomb.  P. ;  d.  1528. 
Botio,  Fr.  Jos..  8.,  Monaco,  pupil  of 

Pajou;  1769-1846. 
Botticellu  AUst.  or  Sandro  (FiKpepi). 

Flor.  P.;  1446-1510. 
Bouchardon,  Edme,  Fr.  8.,  Chaumont ; 

1698-1762. 
Boucher^   Franf..    Fr.  P.,    pupil    of 

Lemoine;  1704-70. 
Bouguereau^    Ad.-WiU.^   Fr.  P.,    La 

Bochelle,  pup.  of  Picot ;  b.  1825. 
Boulogne,  Bon,  or  de  Boullongne,  Fr. 

P.,  Paris  i  1649-1717. 
— -,  Louis.  Fr.  P.,  brother  of  the  last; 

1654-1733. 
Boulle.   Charles 'AndH,    Fr.  cabinet- 
maker, Paris;  1642-1732. 
Boullongne^  see  Valentin. 
Bourgeois,Charles-Arthur,Fr.8..Di\on\ 

1838-87. 
Brascassat.  Jacques-Raymond.  Fr.  P., 

Bordeaux )  1804-67. 
Breton,  Jules-Adolphe,  Fr.  P.,  pup.  of 

Drolling;  b.  im, 
— ,  Em.-Adilard,  Fr.  P.,  brother  and 

pupil  of  the  last;  b.  183 >. 
Breughel,  see  Brueghel. 
Brion,  Oustave,  Fr.P.,  Alsace  j  1824- 

1877. 
Briosco,  Andr.,  snrn.  Riccio,  Ital.  S., 

Padua;  1470-1532. 
Brongniart,    Alex.-Thiod.,    Fr.    A., 

Paris;  1739-1813. 
Bronxino,  Angela  di  Cosimo,  Flor.  P., 

pupil  of  Pontormo ;  c.  1502-72. 
Brouwer^  Adr.^  Flem.  P.^OndenaeTdc, 

pupil  of  Fr,  Hals;  c.  i60&-9R.  \ 

Bt-uant,  Liberal,  Fr.  A.;  d.lft«T.         ^ 

Brueghel,  Peeter^  or  Brueghel  the  Elder 

(''^Peasant    BruisgheV),    F\em.   V. 

iireda;  c.  1520-69. 


Brueghel,  Jan,  sum. '  Veltet  BruegkeP, 
Flem.  P»  Brussels,  son  of  the  last; 


BuUant,  Jean,  Fr.  A.,  8. ;  d.  1678. 
Buonarrotiy  see  Michael  Angelo. 

Oabanel,  Alex,,  Fr.  P.,  MontpeUier, 

pupil  of  Picot  t  1823^. 
Cabat,  Lotstt,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  papil  of 

Flers;  1812-93. 
Cc^fAeri,  J.-J^  Fr.S.,  Paris;  1812-93. 
Caiin^ug.,  Fr.  8.,  papil  of  Bade; 

Calcar,  Johann  von ,  P.  of  the  Yen. 

8chool,  pupil  of  Tittan;  1M(>46. 
Caliari,  see  Veronese. 
CanaMto,  Ant,  Canals,  Yen. P.;  1697- 

1768. 
Canova,  Ant,,  Ital.  8. ;  17S7-1832. 
Caravaggio,    Jiiehekmgelo  AmerMu 

da,   Lomb.  it  Bom.  P.i  16O9-1609. 
Carolus-Durctn,  Fr.  P.,  Lille,  papil  of 

8ouchon;  b.  1887.  I 

Carpaccio,    VUtore,  Yen.  P.s  1470?- 

1519. 
Carpeaux,  Jean-Bapt,,  Fr.  8.,  Yalei- 

ciennes,  pnpfl  of  Bade  *  Doret; 

1827-76. 
Carracd,  Lodovieo,  Bol.  P.,  papO  of 

Tintoret;  1656-1619. 
— ,  AgosHno,  Bol.  P.;  1668-1601. 
— ,  Annibale,  BoLP.,  brother  of  Afosti- 

no.  pup.  of  Lodovieo;  158O-1OO0. 
— ,  Ant.,   Bol.  P.,   son  of  Agoettno, 

pup.  of  Ann.  C;  1688-1618. 
Carrier-Belleuse,   Alb.-Em,,   Fr.  8., 

papil  of  Day.  d* Angers  $  1834-87. 
Carmcei,  see  Pontormo. 
Cartellier,  Pierre,  Fr.  8.,  Paris  t  1767- 

1831. 
Cavelier,  Pierre-Juies,  Fr.  8.,  Paris, 

pupil  of  David  d'Angers;  1814-84. 
CaHn.  Jean-Charles,   Fr.  P.,   Samer; 

b.  1841. 
Cellini,  Benvenuto,  Flor.  8.  aad  girid- 

smith;  1500-72. 
Cesari,  Jos.,  sum.  Jl  0im§sppiiio  or 

Cavaliers  d'Arpino,    Bom.  P.;   e. 

1660-1640. 
Chalgrin,  J,-Fr,-Thir,,  Fr.  A«.  Paris, 

pap.  of  Servandoni ;  1738-1811. 
Charnpaigne,Phil,  de,  Fr.  P.,  Braeaels; 

Chaplain,  Charles-Josuah,  Fr.  P.,  Lei 

Andelys;  1825-91. 
Chapu,Iienri-Mich,-Ani,,Jfr,B.^  pap.of 

Pradier  &  Duret ;  1888-91. 
Chardin.,  J,-B,  SfmAon,  Fr.P.,  Paris; 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


401 


ChatroiUie,  E.^  Fr.  S.,  Paris  \  pupil  o 

Eude;  1829-96. 
ChaudeU  Ant,-Deni»y   Fr.  S.,    Paris ; 

1763-1810. 
Chenavard,Paul,  Fr.P.,  Lyons ;  1808-80. 
Chintrmil,  Ant.,  Fr.  P.  \  1816-73. 
Cigoli.  Luigi  Cardi  da,  Flor.  P.;  1559- 

Cima,  see  Conegliano. 

Cimabue,  Giov,,  Flor.P.;  1240(?)-1S02(?). 

ClMnger.  J,-B,-Aug,,  Fr.  S.,  Besan- 

90n;  1814-83. 
Clodion,  Claude-Michel,  Fr.  S.,  Xancy ; 

1788-1814. 
Cliyuet  or  Oloet,  Franf,,  sum.  Jehannet, 

Fr.P.,  Tours;  1500?-72?. 
CoanieL  Lion, Fr.  P. ,  pupil  of  Gu^rin ; 

Coignet,  Julee-LouU-PMlippe,  Fr.  P., 

Paris,  pupil  of  Bertin ;  1798-1860. 
Colombe,  Michel,  Fr.  S.$  14S0?-1512?. 
CwnrOe^  Ch.,  Fr.  P.,  Lyons;  b.  1816. 
Conegliano,   Cima  or  Cfiov.  Batt,  da, 

Ven.  P.;  d.  1517? 
Constable,   B.  A,  J„  Engl.  P.  i   1776- 

1836. 
Constant, Serk;amin,FT.F.,V&ri3,  pupil 

of  Cabanel;b.l845. 
Comu,    S4b,-Melch.,   Fr.  P.,    Lyons, 

pupil  of  Ingres;  I80i-71. 
Corot,J.-B,  Camille^  Fr.  P.,   Paris; 

Correggio.Ant, Allegri  da,  Lomb.  P.: 

1494?-1584. 
Cortona,  Pietro  BerretHni  da,  Flor.  A. 

and  P.;  1596-1669. 
Cortot,    Jean-Pierre,   Fr.  S.,    Paris; 

1787-1843. 
Costa,  Lor,,  Ferr.  P. ;  1460-1535. 
Couder, Louis-Ch,-Aug.,  Fr.P.,  Paris, 

pupil  of  David  it  Begnault;  1789- 

1873. 
Courbet,  Gustave,  Fr.  P. ;  1819-77. 
Court,  Jos,-Dis,,  Fr.  P.,  Rouen,  pupil 

of  Gros;  1798-1865. 
Courtois.  Jaeq.,  le  Bourguignon,  Fr. 

P.;  1621-76. 
Cousin,  Jean,  Fr.  P.,  S.,  A.,    &  en- 
graver; d.  ca.  1589. 
Coustou^  Jfie,,  Fr.  8.,  Lyons ;  pup.  of 

Coyzevox;  1658-1733. 
— ,  Ouill.,   Fr.  S.,  Lyons,  brother  of 

the   last  and   pup.  of  Goyzevoz; 

1678-1746. 
— ,  Guill.,  Fr.  S.,  Paris,  son  of  the 

last;  1716-77. 
Couture,  I^omas,  Fr.  P.,  Senlis,  pupil 

of  Gros  &  P.  Delaroche ;  1815-79. 
Coypel,  Noil,  Fr.  P.,  Paris;  1628-1707. 
— ,  Ani,,  Fr.P.,  eon  of  the  last;  1661- 
1722, 

"iR^Vyi"^''  ^'  ^'*  '*'°  **^^**^'  O--' 


Babdekss.  Paris.  Utb  Edit. 


Copsevox.  Ant,,  Fr.  S.,  Lyons ;  1640- 
1720. 

Oraesbeke,  Joost  van^  or  Craesbeeck, 
Flem.  P. ;  160841. 

Craeper  or  Grayer,  Oasp.,de,  P.,  Ant- 
werp; 1582-1669. 

Cranach,  Lueae,  the  Elder,  Ger.  P.; 
1472-1653. 

Crauk,  Gust.-Ad.-Dis.,  Fr.  S.,  Valen- 
ciennes, pup.  of  Pradier;  b.  1827. 

Credi,  Lor,  di,  Flor.  P. ;  1459-1537. 

Cuijp  or  (hiyp ,  Aalbert ,  Dutch  P., 
Dordrecht;  1605-91. 

Curxon,  Paul-Al^f.  de,  Fr.  P.,  Poitiers, 
pupil  of  Drolling  &  Gabat;  1820-96. 

Bagnan-Bouveret,  Pascal- Adolphe-Jean^ 

Fr.P.,  Paris;  b.  1852. 
Dalou,  J.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris  -,  b.  1838. 
Daubigny,  Ch,-Franf,,  Fr.  P.,   Paris, 

pupil  of  Delaroche;  1817-78. 
Dauzats,  Adrien,  Fr.  P.,  pupil  of  Gue : 

1804-68. 
David,Jacques-Louis,¥T.F.,  Paris,  pup. 

of  Vien;  1748-1825. 
David  d* Angers.  Pierre- Jean  David,FT, 

8.,  Angers;  1789-1856. 
David  de  Bruges,  Girard.'P.',  1450?-1523. 
Davioud,    O.-J.-A.,   Fr.  A.,    Paris: 

1832-81. 
Debajf,  J,'B,,  Fr.  8.,  pupil  of  Chaudey ; 

1779-1863. 
Debrosse^  Jacques,  Fr.  A. ;  d.  1621. 
Debucourti  L.-Ph.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris;  1756- 

1832. 
Decamps,  Alex,-Oabr.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris; 

Degas,  Edgard,  Fr.  P.,  Paris ;  b.  1834. 
Delacroix,   Ferd,-Vict,-Eug,,   Fr.  P., 

Charenton,    pupil    of  P.  Gu^rin; 

1799-1863. 
Delaplanche,  Bug,,  Fr.  S.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  Duret;  1836-90. 
DeUsroche,  Paul,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  Gros;  1797-1856. 
Delaunay,  Jules-Elie,  Fr.  P.,  Nantes, 

pup.  of  Flandrin;  1828-91. 
Delorme,    Philibert,   Fr.  A.,    Lyons; 

1518?-77?. 
Denner,  Balth.,  Oer.  P.,  Hamburg; 

1685-1747. 
Desbois,  Jules,  Fr.  S.,  Parcay;  b.  1861. 
Deseine,  Louis-Pierre,  Fr.  8.,  Paris; 

1759-1822. 
Desjardins,  Martin  (van  den  Bogaert), 

S.;  1640-94. 
Desportes,  Francois,  Fr.  P.;  1661-1743. 
— ,  Claude-Frang.,   Fr.  P..    sou  a.\!Li 

pupil  of  tlaft  \«A\.'^  Vy^VVTlK. 
Deiainey  Edotioi»d,  ¥T.'e.^^wv^.,^^v^, 

of  Mei&aomexv  \>.  \SA&»  . 

Qirodett  i«»-^. 


402 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


DioM  de  la  Pena.  Jfarcisse.  Fr.P.,  Bor- 
deaux; 1807-76. 
JHeboldt,  Oeorge$^  Fr.  S.,  Dijon,  pupil 

of  Barney  &  Domont;  1816-61. 
Domeniehino.DomenicoZampieri,  Bol. 

P.,  pup.  of  theCarracci:  1581-1641. 
D<matello,  Flor.  S. ;  1383-1466. 
Dori,  Oust.-PauL  Fr.  P.  &  designer, 

Strassburgs  18^2-83. 
DostOy  Cfiov,  Lutero.  also  called  Dosio 

Do$»t,  Ferr.  P.  j  c.  1479-1646. 
Dou  or  Dow.  0«r..  Dutch  P.,  Levden: 

1598-1675. 
Douai^  Jean  de,  see  Bologna. 
Drevet,  Pierre,  two  eneravers,  father 

and  son,  of  Lyons;  1664-1739,1697- 

1739. 
Drolling.    Martin,    Fr.  P.,    Alsace: 

1752-1817. 
— -,  Michel  Martin,  Fr.  P.,  son  of  the 

preceding  and  pupil  of  David ;  1786- 

Drouaie.   Fr.-Hub.,   Fr.P.,    Paris: 

1727-75. 
Duban,  Fil.-Louie-Jacq.,  Fr.  A.,  Paris: 

1797:1870. 
Dvboii,  Paul,   Fr.  8.,   Uogent-sur- 

Seine;  1829-1833. 
Dvibufe,  Louis-Edouard,  Fr.  P.,  Paris, 

pup.  of  Delaroche ;  1820-88. 
Due,  Jo$,-Louis,  Fr.  A. ;  1802-79. 
Dueerceau   or   du  Cerceau,   Jacques 

Androuet,  Fr.  A.;  1540-?. 
Dueq  or  Due,  Jean  le,  Dutch  P.,  The 

Hague;  1636-95. 
Duez,  E.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris ;  1843-96. 
Duj'ardin  or  du  Jardin.  Karel,  Dutch 

P.,  Amsterdam;  1622-78. 
Dumont,  Jaequee-Edme,  Fr.  S.,  Paris, 

pupil  of  Pajou;  1801-84. 
Dupri,  Julee,  Fr.  P.,  Nantes ;  1812-89. 
Duqueenoy,  Francois,  Flem.  8.,  Brus- 
sels; 1594-1646. 
Duran^  see  Garolus-Duran. 
Dilrer,  Alb.,  Ger.  P.,  Nuremberg ;  1471- 

Duret,  Frandeque,  Fr.  S.,  Paris,  pup. 
of  Bosio;  1804-65. 

Duval-le- Camus,  Jules-Alex.,  Fr.  P., 
Paris,  pup.  of  Delaroche  &  Drol- 
ling; 1817-77. 

Dyck,  Antonius  van.  P..  Antwerp, 
pupil  of  Bubens;  1599-1641. 

Utex,  Ant.,   Fr.  8.,    Paris,  p.upil  of 

Dupaty  &  Pradier;  1810-88. 
^yeJt,  Jan  van,  early  Flem.  P. :  1390?- 
1441. 

Fabriano,  Oentile,  da,  XJmbt.  "P.\  c 
1370-1460 


^alcanet ,    Maurice  -  JSticnne 
Vevey,  1716-91. 


¥t. 


FalguUre,  Jtan-Alex.-JoB.  Fr.  8.,  P., 

Toulouie;  1831-1900. 
Firon,   FimUn-BM,  Fr.  P.,   Paris, 

pupil  of  Oros;  1802-76. 
Ferrari,  Oaudensie,  Lomb.  P.  x  1471- 

1546. 
Fed,  Dom.,  Bom.  P.;  1589-1624. 
Feyen-Perrin,  Aug.,  Fr.  P.,  pupil  of 

1.  Gogniet  A  Tvon;  1828-88. 
Fictoor  or  Victoor^  Jan,  Dutch  P.,  papil 

of  Bembrandt;  ca.  1620-72. 
Fiesole,  Fra  Angelieo  da,  see  Ajieelieo. 
— ,  Mino  da,  Flor.  S.(  1481-84. 
Filipepi,  see  Botticelli. 
Flameng^  Frame.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  Gabanel,  J.  P.  Laurens,  etc. ;  b. 

1856. 
Flcmdrin.  Hippolyie,  Fr.  P.,  Lyons, 

pup.  of  Ingres ;  1800-64. 
Flinek,  Oovaert.  Dutch  P.,  ClcTe  s  pu- 
pil of  Bembrandt;  1615-60. 
Fontaine,  Pierre'Franf,'L4im^  Fr.A., 

Pontoise;  1762-1863. 
Fouquel   or   Foucquet,  Jean^    Fr.  P., 

Tours;  c  1416-77?  or  88. 
Foyatier,  DenU,  Fr.  8. ;  1793-1883. 
F^agonardyJeam-Hon,,  Fr.  P.,  QrasM, 

pupil  of  Boucher;  1782-1808. 
',  Alex.-Evariste,  Fr.  P.,  son  of  the 

last;  1783-1850. 
Frantais, Franf.-Lomis,  Fr.P..  Plom- 

bi&res,  pupil  of  Oorot  *  Gigouz; 

1814-97. 
Franceschi,  J.,  Fr.  S. ,  Bar-snr-Aube, 

pupil  of  Bade:  1835-93. 
Franeheville  or  PremguevilU,  Pierre, 

Fr.  8.,  Cambrai,  pup.  of  GioT.  da 

Bologna;  1548-1618? 
Franeia,  Frane.  (BaiboUni)^  Bol.  P.t 

1450-1617. 
Franditbigio,  Jnraneeseo  Mgio,  Flor.  P.: 

1482-1625. 
Franck,   Fr.,   ih§  Elder,  Flem.  P.; 

1544-1616. 
— ,  Fr.,  the  Fountfer,  Flem.  P.,  aon 

and  pupU  of  the  last;  1681-1642. 
Frimiet,  Emm,,  Fr.  S.,  ParUu  pupil  of 

Bude;  b.  1804.  -»  *-  *^ 

Friminet  or  FrinUfUU  MarHn.  Fr.  P., 

Paris;  1667-1619. 
Fromentin,  Bug,,  Fr.  P.,  La  Bochelle ; 

1820-76. 
Fyt,  Jan,  P.,  Antwerp {  1608-81. 

i3tabriel,Jaeques-Ange,  Fr.A.;  1710-83. 
Oardet,  Georges.  Fr.  8.,  Paris ;  b.  1863. 
Oamier,  Jean-Louls-Ckariee^  Fr.  A., 

^wlii-,  1825-98. 
.QaroJoXOs  Bw»,  TMa.^    Ferr.    P.; 


LIST  OF  ABTISTS. 


403 


OMeault,   /€an-Loui»-Andri-77i4od.^ 

Ft,  P.,    Bouen.v  pupil  ofGu^rin*, 

1791-1824. 
Qirdme^  Jean-Lion^  Fr.  P.,  Yeaoul: 

b.  1824. 
Oervex,  Henriyyr,  8.,  Paris;  b.  1852. 
OMrlandaJo  or  Orillandajo,  Dom,  del, 

Flor.  P.  X  1449-94. 
— ,  ^tfft.,  Flor.  P.,  brother  and  pupil 

of  the  last;  145B-97. 
— ,  Ridolfo.  Flor.  P.,  son  of  Dom.  O. : 

1488-1561. 
Oigoux.  Jtan-Franf,,  Fr.  P.,  Besan- 

9on;  1809-94. 
OiordanOy  Luea,  sum.  Fapresto,  Nea- 

pol.  P.,  pup.  of  Bibera  and  Cor- 

tona;  c.  16^1705. 
CHorgione^  Qiorgio  Barbarella,  Ven. 

P.,  pup.  of  BeUini;  1477?-1510. 
Cfirardon.  Franf.y  Fr.   8.,   Troves ; 

1628-17j[5. 
Oiraudf  Pierre-Franf.-Euff,,  Fr.  P., 

Paris.pupilof  Hersent  &  Bichomme ; 

— ,  8£b.'Ch.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris;  1819-92. 
— ,  Victor^  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil  of  Picot 

&  Pierre  G.  (his  father);  1840-71. 
Oirodet-Trioton  (Ann»-Louis  Oir.  de 

Rouqf-Trioson)y  Fr.  P.,  Montargis, 

pup.  of  David;  1764-1824. 
Glaizt,  Aug,'Barth,^  Fr.  P.,   Mont 

pellier,  pup.  of  Dev^ria;  1812-98. 
— ,  P.  P.  LSon,  Fr.  P.,  son  of  the 

preceding,  pupil  of  his  father  and 

of  G^rome;  b.  1842. 
Gleyre^  CharU»-GabrUly  Fr.  P.,  Che- 

villy  (Switzerland),  pup.  of  Her- 

sent;  1807-1874. 
Ootsaert,  see  Mabuse. 
Ooujon.  Jean.  Fr.  8.  &  A.,   Paris; 

1520?-72? 
Qoyen^  Jan  van,  Dutch  P.,  Leyden ; 

OottoU^  Benazzo,  Flor.  P.;  1420-97. 
Oreuze.  J,'B..  Fr.  P. ;  Toumus ;  1725- 

1806. 
Oroe.  AnL-Jean.  Baron,  Fr.  P.,  Paris, 

pupil  of  David;  1771-1835. 
Cfudin.  Thiod,.  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  Girodet;  1802-80. 
QuercbM.  n  (Giov.  Frane.  Barbieri), 

Bol.  P.;  1591-1666. 
Guirin,  Pierre-Jfare.,  Baron,  Fr.  P., 

Paris,    pupil   of  J.-B.    Beenault; 

1774-18^. 
Guido  Reni,  Ital.  P.;  157^1642. 
Guillainy  Simon,  Fr.  S.  &  engraver, 

Paris ;  1581  or  92-1678. 
Guillaume,  Claude-J.-B.-Eug,,  Fr.  S., 

Montbara,   pupil    of  Pradier;    b. 
1822.  '   -"^  -"^  »    •'• 

Ouill^m^,  Gfut,  Fr.  P.,  Parig,  pap. 
of  Picot  and  Barrtasi  idiO-H. 


Gumerff.  Ch.-Alph.,  Fr.  8.,  Paris; 
1827-71. 

Hal«,    Fran*.  Flem.    P.,    Malines; 

1584-1666. 
Hamon,  Jean-Lotdt,  Fr.  P.,  St.  Loup 

(Brittany),    pup.    of   Delaroche   & 

Gleyre;  1821-74. 
Harpigniet,    Henri,    Fr.   P.,    Valen- 
ciennes, pup.  of  Achard;  b.  1819. 
Hibert,  Em. -Ant.- Aug.,  Fr.  P.,  Gre- 
noble, pupil  of  Delaroche ;  b.  1817. 
Heem ,  Jan  Davidz  de,  P.,  Utrecht ; 

1606(?)-1688-84. 
Heim,  Franf.-Jot.,  Fr.  P..  Belfort, 

pupU  of  Hersent;  1787-1866. 
Heist,   Barth.   van   der,   Dutch    P., 

Haarlem;  1611-70. 
Henner,  J.-J.,  Fr.  P.,  Alsace,  pupil  of 

Drolling  A  Picot;  b.  1829. 
Herrera,  Frane.mthe  Elder,  Span.  P.; 

157ft-1656. 
Hereent,  Louie,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  J.-B.  Begnault;  1777-1860. 
Hesse,  Nie.-Aug.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  Gros;  17^-1869. 
— ,  Alex.-J.-B.j  Fr.  P.,  Paris,    pupil 

of  Gros ;  18()6-79. 
Heyden  (Heijde),  J.  van  der,  Dutch 

P.,  Gorkum;  1637-1712. 
Hiolle,   Em,-Eug,,   Fr.    S.,    Valen- 
ciennes, pup.  of  Jouflfroy;  1833-87. 
Hittorff,Jae,'fgn.,k.,  Cologne,  pupil  of 

Fr.-Jos.BellangerinParis;1793-1867. 
Hobbema,  Meindert,  Dutch  P.;  1638- 

1709. 
Holbein,  Han*,  the  Younger,  Ger.  P., 

Augsburg;  1497-1543. 
Hondecoeter,  MeleMor  dT,  Dutch  P., 

Utrecht;  1636-95. 
Honthor*L  Ger,  van,  Dutch  P. ;  1590- 

1656. 
Hooeh  or  Hoogh,  Pieter  de,  Dutch  P.; 

1630-77. 
Hpudon,  Jean-AnL,  Fr,  8.,  Versailles ; 

1741-1828. 
Huet,  Jean-Bapt,  Fr.  P.,  pupil  of  Le- 

prince;  17^.1811. 
— ,   Paul,  Fr.  P.,    Paris,    pupil   of 

Gu^rin  and  Gros;  1804-69. 
Humbert,  Ferdinand,  Fr.  P.,   Paris; 

b.  1842. 

Ingree,  J.-A.-Dom,,  Fr.  P.,  Montau- 
ban,  pupil  of  David;  1780-1867. 

Isabep,  Louis* Gdb.'Eug.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris, 
pupil  of  his  father,  J.-B.  Isabey, 
the  designer  X  IQCMr^. 

Jacqtiemart,  MIU  NfcUe,^.^ .^^^^^*^ 
pupil  oi  Co%tv\e\.N  ^i.  VeA»-  wmv^  ^^  > 

P .,  p\ip.  ot  "P  .1>«A».T^^^*=^  ^^^^ 


404 


LIST  OP  ARTISTS. 


Jordaens,  /ac.,P.,Antwerp ;  1593-1678. 
Jouffroy,  franf. ,Fr.  S.,  Dijon,  pupil 

of  Ramey  the  Younger;  1806^2. 
Jouvenet.  Jean,  Fr.  P.,  Rouen;  1644- 

1717, 
Jundt.    Oustave,   Fr.  P.,   Strassburg; 

b.  i830. 
Juste  de  Tours^JeanyVr.  8. ;  d.  ca.  1535. 

Kauffmann.  AnaeUca^  Ger.  P.«  Coire  *, 
1741-180?. 

Keller  y  two  brothers  of  Zurich,  bronze- 
founders  at  the  court  of  Louis  XIV. 

Labroutte.   Pierre- Fran^. -Henri.  Fr. 

A.;  1801-75. 
Lafoese  or  La  Fosse,  Ch,  de,  Fr.  P., 

Paris ;  1636-1716. 
Lahire  or  La  Eyre,  LauretU  de,  Fr.  P., 

Paris;  1606-56. 
Lancret,  Nicolas.  Fr.  P.,  Paris;  1690- 

1743. 
Langlois^  Jean-Ch.,  surnamed  Le  Co- 
lonel, Fr.  P.,  pupil  of  Girodet,  Gros, 

and  H.  Vernet;  1789-1870. 
Largillihre,  Nie,,  Fr.  P.,  Paris;  1656- 

1746. 
Larivihre,  Phil.-Ch,  d«,  Fr.  P..  Paris, 

?upil  of  Gu^rin,  Girodet,  a  Gros: 
798-1876. 

Lassus,  J.-B.'Ant.,  Fr.  A.,  Paris; 
1807-&7. 

La  Tour,  Qventin  de,  Fr.  P. ;  1709-88. 

Laurens,  Jean- Paul,  Fr.  P. ;  b.  1838. 

Le  Brun  or  Lebrun,  Ch,,  Fr.  P.,  Pa- 
ris, pupU  of  S.  Vouet;  1619-90. 

— ,  Elise-Louise  Vigie,  Fr.  P.,  Paris; 
1755-1842. 

Lefehvre,  Jules-Jos.,  Fr.  P.;  b.  1836. 

Lefuel,  Hector  Martin,  Fr.  A.,  Ver- 
saUles ;  1810-81. 

Lehmann ,  Ch,-Em.-Rod,- Henri ,  P., 
Kiel,  pupil  of  Ingres;  1814-82. 

Lehoux,  P.,  Fr.  P.,  Pans;  1844-96. 

Leleux,  Adolphe,  Fr.  P.,  Paris ;  1812-91. 

— ,  Armand,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  brother  of 
the  last  and  pupil  of  Ingres ;  1818-85. 

Lemaire,  Phil.- Henri,  Yr,  8.,  Valen- 
ciennes, pupil  of  Cartellier;  1798- 
1880. 

Lemercier,  Jacques,  Fr.  A.,  Pontoise; 
1590-1660. 

Leynot.  Fran^ois-Fridiric,  Fr.S.,  Lyons: 
1773-1827. 

Leinoyne,  J.-B.,  Fr.  8.,  Paris ;  1704-48. 

Lenain,  Louis,  Antoine,  and  Mathieu, 

Fr.  P.  of  the  17th  cent. 
Zenepveu,  Jules-Eug,^  Fr.  P.,  Xu^wa," 

pupil  of  Picot ;  b.  1819. 
Ztf  Jiratrg  OP  Len6tr9y  Andr*,  A-  wxA. 

iandscape  -  gardener .  Pat\8\  ^SVi- 

1700. 
^-epire,  J.-B.^  Fr.  A., Paris -, ilft^i^Alw 


Leprine»,  A.'Xavier,  Fr.  P.,  PaAs; 

Lescot,  Pierre,  Fr.  A.,  Paris  $  1510-71. 
Le  Sueur,  or  Lesueur^EntiaehefVr,  P., 

pup.  of  Vouet;  1617-66, 
Lethibre,  OuilL-Guillon.  Fr.  P.,  pupil 

of  Doyen;  1760-1882. 
Levau,  Louis,  Fr.  A.;  1612-70. 
Livy,  Em.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil  of  A. 

de  Pujol  and  Picot;  b.  1826. 
Lhermitte,  Uon,  Fr.  P.,  Mont-St-P^re 

(Aisne);  b.  18U. 
Libri,  Oirolamo  dai,  Ven.  P.;   1474 

1556. 
Lievens  or  Livens,  Jan.  Dutch  P., 

Leyden;  1607-72  (?)• 
Lippi,  Fra  Filippoy  Flor.  P. ;  1412-69. 
Loison,  Pierre,  Fr.  S.,  pupO  of  David 

d'Angers;  b.  1821. 
Loo,  van,  see  Vanloo. 
Lorrain^  Claude  OeU4e.  sum.  (71.  le  X., 

Fr.  P.,   studied  in  Italy;  1600^ 
Lotto,  Lor.,  Ven.  P.;  1480-1654 m. 
Luini,  Bern.,  Mil.  P. ;  1470(?)-1630C?). 
LuminaiSyE.  F.,Fr. P.,  Nantes ;  1821-96. 

V.abuse,  Jan  van  or  Oossaert.  Flem. 

P.,  Maubeuge;  1470-1541. 
Maes,  or  Maas,  Aeri  or  Arnold  vem, 

Flem.  P.,  Gouda;  1620^4. 
Maillet,  Jacques-Lion.,  Fr.  S.,  Paris, 

pupil  of  Pradier;    1823-84. 
Mainardd,  BastianOy  Flor.  P.  $  d.  1616? 
Maindron,  Et.-Hipp,,  Fr.  S.,  pup.  of 

David  d' Angers;  1801-84. 
Majano,  Ben,   da,  Flor.   A.   *  8.; 

1442-9V. 
Manet,  Edouard,  Fr.  P.,  Paris ;  1833-83. 
Mansard  or  Mantart,  Fremg,.  Fr.  A., 

Paris;  1598-1666. 
— ,  Jules-Hardouin ,  Fr.  A..   Paris, 

nephew  of  the  last;  1645-1706. 
Mantegna,  Andrea,  Ital.  P.,  Padua; 

1431-160fe. 
Mareellin,  Jean-Esprit.  Fr.  8.,  Qu, 

pup.  of  Rude;  1821-84. 
Marchal,  Ch,-Franf,,  Fr.  P.,  Paris, 

pupil  of  Drolling ;  1826-77. 
Marilhat,  Prosper,  Fr.  P^  AuTergne, 

pupil  of  Roquejuan;  iSLl-47. 
Maroehetti,   Ch,,  S.,  Turin,  pupil  of 

Bosio;  1805-67. 
Marquette,  Laurent,  Fr.S.,  Toulouse; 

b.l«50. 
Marsy,    Balth,    it   Geup,,    two    Fr. 

sculptors  of  Cambraf;  1624-74  A 

1628-81. 
Matout  ^  Lwis.,  Fr.  P.,  OharleviUe; 


Mat»M»  QT   llMVtt«.t  ^^MJMlMk  ^  ^)eM»r 

tin.  kivVw«t^^A^M3W3®N.. 


U8T  OF  ARTISTS. 


405 


i/iser,  Jan  van  der^  of  HaarUm,  Dutch 

P.J  1628-91. 
— ,  /.  van  dery  0/  Delft ^  Dutch  P.; 

1632-75. 
Meissonier^  Jean-LouU-Em.j  ¥t.  P., 

Lyons;  1816-91. 
— ,  Jiuie-AvriU,  A.,  S.,  &  P.,  h.  1695 

at  Turin,  d.  1750  at  Paris. 
Merr^na.  JBane^  early  Flem.  P. :   ea. 

1430-95. 
Merdiy  Antonin^Fr.  S..  Toulouse,  pup. 

of  Jouffroy  A  Falguifere ;  b.  1846. 
Messina.  Antonello  da.  Neapol.  P.: 

d.  I49J  (?). 
Metsu.  Gabriel.   Dutch  P.,  Leydenj 

163^67. 
Meulen^  Ant.-Fr,  van  der^  Brussels, 

P.  of  hattle-scenes  to  Louis  XIV. ; 

1634-90. 
Mepniety  OA.,  Fr,  P.,  Paris,  pupil  of 

Vincent;  1768-1832. 
Michael  Angelo  Buonarroti^  A.,  S.,  A 

P.,  Florence;  1475-1564. 
Mieris.  Frans  van.  the  Elder.  Dutch 

P.,  Leyden;  1635-81. 
— ,  Willem  van^  Dutch  P.,  LeycLen, 

pupil  of  the  last;  1662-1747. 
Mignard.   Pierre.   Fr.   P.,    Troyes: 

1610-95. 
Millety  Jean-Fran  f..¥T.  P.,  pup.  of  P. 

Delaroche;  1815-76. 
— ,  Aimi.  Fr.  S.,  Paris,  pupil  of  Da- 
vid d*  Angers;  1819-1891. 
Mino  da  Fiesole^  see  Fiesole. 
Montagna.  Bartolommeo.  Ven.  P. :  d. 

1523.      ' 
Montereau^  Pierre  de,  Fr.  A. ;  d.  1266. 
Mor^  Moor,  or  Moro,  Antonis  de  (Sir 

A.  More),  Dutch  P.,  Utrecht;  1612- 

1576/8. 
Moreau,  Oustave,  Fr.  P.,  Paris ;  pup. 

of  Picot;  1826-98. 
— ,  Louie-GaX>riel,  Fr.  P.,  Paris ;  1740- 

l806. 
— ,  l/a<Aurt»,Fr.S.,  Dijon,  pupil  of  Ba- 
rney A  DumOnt ;  b.l822. 
Moreav^Vatuihier.  Aug..  Fr.  8.,  Paris ; 

1831-93. 
Moretto  da  Breseia  (Aless.  Bonvidno), 

P.,  Brescia;  1498-1665. 
Mottex ,  Victor-Louis .  Fr.  P.,  Lille, 

pupil  of  Picot;  1809-92. 
Muller,  Oh.  Louis^  Fr.  P.,  Paris.pupil 

of  Goguiet  and  Gros;  1815-1892. 
Murillo.  Bartolomi-Esi^an,  Span.  P.: 

1616-8b. 

Vanteuil   (Ch.-Frang.'Leboeuf).  Fr. 

8.,  Paris;  1792-1865. 
— ,  Robert,  engraver,  Reims  \  1630- 

ATaMre,  m.'Jos.,Fr.P.,  Nlmes,pnpll 
of  Lemoinei  1700-77,  »*'*'* 


Nattier.  Jean- Marc,  Fr.  P.,  Paris; 
1686-1766. 

Neer,  Aart  van  der,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam (?);  16(B-77. 

yeuville,  Alphonse  de,  Fr.  P.,  St. 
Omer,  pup.  of  Picot  5    1836-85. 

OggUmo,  Marco  da,  Lomb.  P.,  pup. 

of  Leon,  da  Vinci;  1470(?)-1530(?). 
Ostade,  Adr.  van,  Dutch  P.;  1610-85. 
— ,  Jxaek  van,  Dutch  P.,  brother  and 

pupil  of  the  last;  1621-49. 
Ottin,  Aug.-Louis-Marie,  Fr.  S^  Paris, 

pup.  of  David  d^ Angers ;  1811-90. 
Oudnf,  J,B,,  Fr. P., Paris;  1686-1755. 

Vagnest,  A.-L.-Claude,  Fr.  P.;  1790- 

1819. 
Pajou,  AugusUn,  Fr.  8..  Paris,  pupil 

of  Lemoine ;  1730-1809. 
Palissy,  Bern.,  potter;    1510 ?-89. 
Palma    Veeehio,   Jaeopo,    Ven.    P.; 

1480-1528. 
Panini,  Giov,- Paolo,  Lomb.  P. ;  1695- 

1768. 
Papeiy,   Dom.- Louis-Fir iol,   Fr.   P., 

Marseilles;  1815-49. 
Pater.   J.-B..  Fr.  P.,   Valenciennes; 


Pereier,  Ch.,  Fr.  A.,  Paris;  1764-1838. 
P^nraud,  Jean-Jos.,  Fr.  S.,  pupil  of 

Barney  &  Dumont;  1821-76. 
Perrault,    Claude,    Fr.    A.,    Paris: 

1613-88: 
Perugino  (Pietro  Vannueci).  Umbrian 

P.;  1446-1524. 
Philippoteaux,  Henri-Emm.- Filix.  Fr. 

P.,  Paris;  1816^. 
Picot,  Franf,-Ed.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  Vincent;  1786-1868. 
Pigalle,  J.-B.,  Fr.  S.,  Paris  ;  1714-85, 
PUon,  Germain,  Fr.  8.;  1515  ?-90? 
Pits,  Isid.-Adr.-Aug.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris, 

pupil  of  Picot;  1813-75. 
Pinturicehio  (Bernardino  Befti),  Vm- 

brian  P.;  1454-1513. 
Piombo.  Sebttst.  del  (Sebast.  Zvcicmi), 

Ven.  P. ;  1485-1547. 
Pippi,  see  Romano. 
Pisano  or  PisanellOy  Vittore,  Veronese 

P. ;  ca.  1880-1451. 
Poinielin,  Auguste- Emmanuel^  Fr.  P., 

Arbois ;  b.  1839. 
Ponce  or  Ponsio,   Paolo,  Flor.  S.  of 

the  16th  century. 
Pontormo,  Jaeopo  Carrueei  da,  Flor. 

P.,  pup.  of  A.  del  Sarto;  1494-1557. 
Potter,  Pauly  Dutch  P. «,  ISOft-^A, 
PourbfM  or  P<Mrbut.>FTau*.^lK*^o'au<iw^ 

Antwerp  -p,-,  \S^^-VSXi. 

Ft.  p.,  Home,  ticoV^cv?  «iv^^^^«  ^^ 


406 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


PoMiin,  NieoUu,  Fr.  P.,  Les  Andeljs, 

Kormandy;  1694-1666. 
Praditr,  J,-J.n  Fr.  8.,  Geneva,  pup. 

of  Lemot;  1786-1862. 
Pr^auUj  Ant.'Auffusiin^  Fr.  8.,  Paris ; 

Prieur^  Barth.j  Fr.  8. ;  d.  1611. 
Primaticdo,  Franc,  Bol.  P.  \  1504-70. 
Protais,   Paul-Alex,.  Fr.  P.,   Paris; 

1826-90. 
Prudhon,  Pierre-PauL  Fr.  P.,  Cluny  i 

175&-1823. 
Puget.    Pierre, 

1622-94. 


Fr.   8.,   Marseilles; 


RocUn^  Aftgutte^  Fr.  8.,  Paris  i  b.  1840. 
Roll,  Alft-ed-PhiUppe,  Fr.  P.»  Paris ; 

Romano,    Giulio  (Pippi)t  Bom.  P.: 

1492-1446. 
Rosa,  Salvator,  ISeaip,  P.;  1616-73. 
Roaao,  Oiovanbattista,  Flor.  P.  t  1^6- 

1641. 


Rottenhammer,  J,,  Ger.  P., 
1564-1623. 


Hanicb; 


PuJol,  Alex,'Denia-Abel  ,Ft,  P.,  Va- 
lenciennes, pupil  of  David;  1786- 
1861. 

Puvia  de  Chavannet,  Pierre,  Fr.  P., 
Lyons,  pupil  of  H.  8cheffer  &  Cou- 
ture; 1824-98. 

TiaffaeUi,  FrandsqueJean,  Fr.  P., 
Paris;  b.  1846. 

Rafet,  Denis,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil  of 
Gharlet  and  Gros;  1804-60. 

Raibolini,  see  Francia. 

Ramey,Claude,¥T.S,,Diion  1 1764-1838. 

Raphael  (Raffaello  Santi  da  Urbino), 
Ital.  P.;  1483-1520. 

Regnault,  /.-jB.,Fr.P.,PariS5 1764-1829. 

— ,  Henri,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil  ot  Ca- 
banel;  1843-71. 

RemJbrandt  Harmmsz  van  Ryn,  Dutcb 
P.,  Leyden ;  1606-69. 

Reni,  see  Guido. 

Renoir^  Firmin-Auguste,  Fr.  P.,  Lim- 
oges ;  b.  1841. 

Rihera,  Josi  de,  sum.  Spagnoletto, 
Span.-Neap.  P.;  1688-1666. 

Ribot,  Augustin-TModule,  Fr,  P.,  Bre- 
teuil,  pupU  of  Glaize ;  1823-91. 

Ricard,  Louis- Gust,,  Fr.  P.,  Marseil- 
les; 1824-73. 

Riecio,  see  Briosco. 

Riehier,  Ligier,  Fr.  S..  St.  Mihiel, 
pup.  of  Michael  Angeio ;  16th  cent. 

Rigavid»  Hyadnthe,  Fr.  P.,  Perpignan ; 

Ro1>bia,  Luca,  Andr.,  &  Oiov.  dslla, 
three  Flor.  sculptors  of  the  16-16tb 
centuries. 
Robert,  Hubert,  Fr.  P.;  1733-1808. 
— ,  Louis -Liop,,  P.,  La   Chauz-de- 
Fonds,  pupil  of  Gerard  &  David; 
1794-1835. 
Robert- Fleury,  Jos,-mc,,  Fr.  P.,  Pa- 
riB,  pnp.  of  Girodet,   Gros,  &  H. 
Veniet;  1797-1890. 
— ,  Tonp,  Ft,  P. ,  Paris ,  son  of  i\ife  \wV 
^  pupil  of  Delaroche*,  b.  i&Sl. 

Jiobusti,  see  Tintoretto.  i     -vr\    t .    n„»«7,     ^v. 

Hochegroue,  Oeorges,  Fr.  P.,  VexaBivX  So<^oU  Jatqc«%.Otim«»*  .,^,  k^ 


Rousseau,   ITiiodcre ,  Fr.  P.,  Paris; 

1812-67. 
Rubens,   Peter    Paul,   Antwerp   P.; 

1677-1640. 
Rude,  Franc,,  Fr.  8.,  D^on  {   1784- 

Ruysdael  or  Ruiida$l,  Jacob  von, 
Dutch  P.,  Haarlem;  c.  1628-82. 

— ,  Jxaek  vem,  Dutch  P. ;  d.  1677. 

— .  Salomon  van^  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem; d.  1670. 

Eaint-Jean,  Simon ^  Fr.  P.,  Lyons; 

1808-60. 
Saint-Marceaux,  Reni  de,  Fr.  8., 

Bheims;b.  1845. 
Santerre,  J,  B,,  Fr.  P.,  pupU  of  Boi 

Boulogne;  1660-1717. 
Santi,  see  Raphael. 
Sarrazin,  Jacques,  Fr.  8. ;  d.  1600. 
Sarto,  Andrea  del  (Andrea  VitnHuedd), 

Flor.  P.  5  1487-1631. 
Scuso/errato.    Oiov,-BaU.   SeUvi  da* 

Bom.  P.;  1606-86. 
Scheffer,  Ary,  P.,  Dordrecht,  pupil  of 

Gu^rii;  1795-1868. 
Scheffer,  Henri,  V,,   brother  of  the 

last  and  pupil  of  Gu6rin  {  1798-18B2. 
Schnete,   Jean -Victor,   Fr.  P.,    Ver- 
sailles, pupil  of  David^Begnault, 

Gerard,  A  Grosj  1787-1870. 
Servandoni,  Jeaw Nicolas,  Fr.  A., 

Lyons;  1696-1766. 
Sesto,   Ces,  da.  P.,  Milan,  pupil  of 

Leon,  da  Vinci;  d.  after  JL63L 
Seurre,  Ch,-Marie-Em,^  Fr.  8..  Paris, 

pupil  of  CartelUert  1798-1868. 
Sigalon,  Xavier,  Fr.  P^  Ui^,  pupil 

of  P.  Gu^rin;  1790-1^. 
Signol,  Em,,  Fr.  P.,  pupil  of  Gros; 

1804-92. 
SignorelU,  Lums,  TusoaaP. j  1441-1628. 
Simart,   Pierre- Ch.,  Fr.  8., ^Troves, 

pupil  of  Dupaty  A  Predieri    1807- 

Slingelandi.  P,  van,  Dutch  P.,  Ley- 
den., pupil  of  Dou$  184(^1. 
Sn\)der».,lrran«.,ko&i««T9  P^  1579-1667. 
Solarvo.  An^»«x^\Jfiia^«'^«.'\iw^of 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


407 


Spada,  LioneUo,  Bol.  P.;  1556-1622. 
Spagna^    Qiov.   di  Pisiro,   surn.    lo 

Spagna^  Span.-Umbr.  P.;  d.  1529? 
Spagnoletto,  see  Ribera. 
Steen.Jan,  Dutcb  P.,Leyden ;  1626?-79. 
Steuben^    Ch..  P.,  Mannheim:  1791- 

1856. 
Stevens ,  Alfred ,    Belg.  P.  at  Paris : 

b.  1828.  '       '         ^ 
Stibleprat,  Pierre,  Fr.  P.,  Vzhs ;  1699- 

1749. 
SueWy  Le,  see  Le  Saenr. 


Tcueaert,  Octave,  Fr.  P.,  Paris:  1800- 

1874. 
Teniert,  David,  the  Elder ^  Antwerp 

P.,  pupil  of  Bnbens  ;  1582-1649. 
— ,  David,  the  Younger,  Antwerp  P., 

son  &  pupU  of  tbe  last;  1610-90. 
Ter  Borch  or  TVrftiMV,  Oer.,  Dutch 

P.,  Zwolle;  1617-81. 
Thulden,  Th.  van,  Flem.  P.,  pupil  of 

Rubens  i  1607-76. 
Timbal,  Louie- Ch.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris,  pupil 

of  DrolUng  A  Signol;  1822-80. 
Tintoretto,  Jacopo  RobueU,  Ven.  P., 

pupil  of  Titian;  1519-94. 
Titian  (lisiano  Veeellio  da  Cadore), 

Ven.  P. ;  1477-1676. 
Toequi,  Louis,  Fr.  P.,  1696-1772. 
Triqueti.  Henri,  Baron  de,  Fr.  S.j 

Troy,  J.  F.  de,  Fr.  P.,  Paris  j  1679-1762. 
Troy  on.    Constant,    Fr.  P.,    Sfevres; 

1810^. 
Tuby  or  Tubi^J,-B,,  8.;  1630-1700. 

Vceello,  Paolo,  Flor.  P.;  1897-1476. 

Valentin,  sum.  Jean  de  BouUongne, 
Fr.  P.,  Goulommiers;  1691-1634. 

Vanloo  or  van  Loo,  Jaceh,  Dutch  P. ; 
1614-70. 

Vanloo,  Jean-Bapiiste,  Fr.  P.,  Aix: 
1684-1745. 

— ,  Ch.'Andri,  Fr.  P.,  Nice,  brother 
and  pupil  of  the  last-,  1705-65. 

— ,  Louis- Michel,  Fr.  P.,  Toulon,  son 
of  Jean-Baptiste;  17(Jr-7I. 

Vannucchi,  see  Sarto. 

Fann«ee<,  see  Perugino. 

Vtisari,  Giorgio,  Flor.  P.  &  art-histo- 
rian; 1512-74. 


VeeelU,  see  Titian. 

Vela,  Vine,  Ital.  S.;  1822-91. 

Velatquet,  Don  Diego  Rodriguez  de 
Sylva  y  F.,  Span.  P.;  1599-1660. 

Velde,  Adr.  van  de,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam; 1635-72. 

— ,  WtUem  van  de,  the  Younger,  P., 
Amsterdam;  16^1707. 

Ver  Meer,  see  Meer. 

Vemet,  Claude-Jos.,  Fr.  P.,  Avignon: 
1714-89. 

— ,  Ant,-Ch,-Hor,,  sum.  Carle,  Fr. 
P.,  son  of  the  last;  1758-1835. 

— ,   Horace,  Fr.   P.,    son   of  Carle; 


Veronese,  Paolo  (P.  Caliari),  Ven. 

P.;  1538-88. 
Victoor,  see  Fictoor. 
Vien.  Jos.-Marie,  Fr.  P.,  Montpellier; 

Vinehon,  Aug,-J.-B.,   Fr.  P.,  Paris; 

1789-1865. 
Vinei,Leonardoda,  Flor.  P.;  1452-1519. 
Viollet'le-Duc,   Eug.-Emm,,  Fr.  A., 

Paris;  1814-79. 
Visconti,  Louis,  A.,  pupil  of  Percier; 

1791-1854. 
Vollon,  Ant.,  Fr.  P.,  Lyons;  b.  1833. 
Volterra,  Daniele  Rieciarelli  da,  Flor. 

P  •  1509-66 
Vouet,  8im.,  Fr.  P.,  Paris;  1690-1649. 

Warin,  Jean,  Fr.  medallist,  Li^ge; 
1604^73. 

Watteau,  Ant.,  Fr.  P.,  Valenciennes ; 
1684-1721. 

Weenix,  J.-B.,  Dutch  P.;  1621-60. 

Weyden,  Rog.  van  der,  Flem.  P., 
Toumai;  c.  1399-1464. 

Wouverman,  PhU.,  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem; 1619-68. 

— ,  Pieter,  Dutch  P.,  brother  and 
pupil  of  the  last;  1623-82. 

Wynants,  Jan,  Dutch  P.;  1641-79. 

Yvon,  Ad.,  Fr.  P.,  Eschweiler,  pupU 
of  P.  Delaroche;  1817-93. 

Zampieri,  see  Domenichino. 
Ziegler,  Claude-Louis,  Fr.  P.,  Langres, 

pupil  of  Ingres;  1804-66. 
Ziem,F4lix,  Fr.  P.,  Beaune;  b.  1821. 
Zurbaran,  Fi'ancisco,  Span.  P.,  1589- 

1662. 


INDEX. 


Abbaye  anx  Bois  352. 

—  du  Val  348. 
Abbeville  384. 
Ablon  368. 

Ach^res  338.  8U.  896. 
AdamviUe  302. 

Ste.  Adresse  398. 
Ailly-snr-Noye  386. 

—  snr-Somine  384. 
Alfort  302. 
Alfortyille302.359.  Appx., 

p.  81,  32. 
Amiens  386. 
Andelys,  Les  396. 
Andilly  341. 
Andr^sy  344. 
Antony  352.  356. 

—  (Pont  d  )  356. 
Apremont  367. 
Arcueil  350.  356. 
Argenteuil  341.  343. 
Arpajon  357. 
Arques  380. 

— ,  the  889. 

Arras  386. 

Arve,  the  386. 

A8ni^res291.326.342.396. 

Athis-Mons  358. 

Aubervilliers-la-CouT- 

neuve  379. 
-^  Rue-St-Deni8  380. 
Auger-St-Vincent  378. 
Anlnay  352. 

—  Us-Bondy  379. 
Autenil  171.  Appx.,  p.  34. 
Auvers  346. 

Avon  368. 

Bagatelle  162. 

Bagneux  349.  355. 

Bagnolet.8eeAppx.,p.32. 

Bailly  326. 

BallainvUliers  356. 

Barbery  378. 

Barbison  368. 

Barentin  398. 
Barre-Ormesson,  La  3S9 
Baa-Br^au  368. 
—  ir«udoii  292.  293.  298. 
Beauchamps  342. 
Beaumont  346.  3T7. 
Beauregard  (cliat.)  32n[ 


B^eon-les-Bruy^res  291. 
Bel-Air 301 ;  Appx.,  p.  84. 
Belles-Fontaines    (Pont 

des)  358. 
Bellevue  298. 

—  Funiculaire  292.  29S. 
Belloy  347. 

Berck  384. 
Bercy-Ceinture  359. 
Bergerie,  La  295. 
Berneval  390. 
Bemy  352. 
— ,  Lm  Croix  de  356. 
Bessancourt  348. 
B^thnne  384. 
Benzeville  398. 
Bevillera  (Ghat.)  364. 
Bezons  326.  343.  Appx., 

p. 32. 
Bicdtre  357. 
— ,  Fort  350.  357. 
Bi6vre,  the  350.  353. 
Bi&vres  352.  353. 
Billanconrt  293.  297. 

Appx.,  p.  31. 
Bois-de-Golombes  342. 

—  le-Roi  362. 
Boissy-St-Ldger  307. 
Bolbec  398. 

Bondy  379;  Appx.,  p.  31. 
Bonneuil-sur^Marne,  see 

Appx.,  p.  31. 
Bonni^res  396. 
Bon-Secours  394. 
Boran  377. 
Bonffemont  347. 
Bongival  327.  329. 
Bouille,  La  390. 
Boollay-les-Troux  353. 
Boulogne-sur-Mer   381. 

—  suT-Seine  293 ;  Appx., 
p.  31. 

Bourg-la-Beine  356.  861. 
Bourget,  Le  379. 
Boiirron  368. 
Boves  386. 

,— ,Pav.  ^Lfe^iSSi. 


Brie,  La  SeO. 

—  Comt»-Robert  307. 
Bmnoy  860. 
Brnyires  377. 
Bry-sor-Hame  906. 
Bno,  Aquedact  of  863. 
Bores  868. 
Butte-Pingon  869. 
Buzenval  295. 

OafilersSSS. 

Calais  887. 

Camp  de  O^ar  390. 

Canaples  884. 

Canohe  (Bale  de  la)  38i 

Camelle,  Forest  of  347. 

Carriftres,  Les  801.  302. 

—  St.  Denis  318. 
Candebee  398. 
Caux,  Pavs  de  898. 
Cayeuz  884. 

CeUe-St-Cloud,  La  327. 
Cernay  866.  842.    ' 
Cesson  360. 

Chailly  861. 
Chalais  (Pare  de)  299. 
Champagne  346.  860. 
ChampignoUe  807. 
Ghampigny  807. 
Ohamplan  868. 
Ghampl&trenz  847. 
Ghamprosay  869. 
ChantiUy  869. 
Chapelle-Hord-Ceintare, 

Lad34. 880.  Appx.,  p.84 
Ghi^nral  345. 
Gharenton  802.  869. 

Appx.,  p.  81. 
Gharonne^ee  Appx.  p.34. 
Ghasse  (C^teaa  de  la) 

841, 
Ghateanneaf  896. 
Ghfttenay  852;  Appx., 

p.  81. 
Ch&tiUon  849. 
Ghaton  827. 

Jnv.^^e  307.  808. 


INDEX. 


409 


Chilly  Mazarin  353.  356.  Epinay  339.  348.  Appx., 


Choisy-le-Roi  358. 
Cit^  de  Limes  390. 
Clamart  296. 
Clferes  398. 

Clermont-de-rOise  387. 
Clichy  209.    291.   396. 

Appx.,  p.  34. 
St.  Cloud  294. 

—  Montretout  293. 
Colorabes  342.  396. 
Combs-la- Ville  360. 
Oomelle,  Btang  de  376. 
Compans  379. 
Conchil-le-Temple  384. 
Conflans  301. 

—  Fin-d'Oise  344. 

—  St.  Honorine  343. 
Corbeil  359. 
Cormeilles  341.  342.  343. 

—  en-Parisis  343. 
Coudray  360. 
Courbetin  (Chat,  de)  353. 
Courbevoie  160.  291.  328. 

Appx.,  p.  32. 
Courcelles  395;    Appx., 

p.  34. 
Coye  369. 
Creil  377.  887. 
Crdpy-en-Valois  378. 
Craeil302  5  Appx.,  p.  31. 
Croissy  327. 

Croix-d'Arcueil,  La  356. 
Crotoy,  Le  384. 
St.  Cucufa  (Etang  de) 

329. 
St.  Cyr  326. 

Dammartin  379. 
Dampierre  354. 
Danmarie  361. 
Daumesnil,  Lac  305. 
Deauville  398. 
Denecourt  (Tour)  367. 
St.  Denis  334. 
— ,  He  339. 
Deuil  348. 
Dieppe  389. 
Domont  347. 
Dompierre-sur-Autbie 

384: 
Dormoir,  the  368. 
Douai  387. 
Dover  387. 
Drancy  379. 
Draveil  359. 
Dreuil  384. 


I    p.  32. 

—  sur  Orge  358. 
Epiuches  345. 
iBragny-Neuvillc  343.  344. 
Ermenonville  379. 
Ermont  341.  342.  349. 
Esneval  398. 
Essonnes  360. 
Etampes  859. 
Etang-la- Ville,  L'  328. 
Etaples  384. 
Evry  359. 
Ezanville  347. 

Fai'encerie,  La  356. 
Faloise,  La  886. 
St.  Fargeau  360. 
St.  Firmin  377. 
Flcury  298.  299^. 
Folkestone  381. 
FoUeville  386. 
Fontainebleau  362. 
Fontenay-aux-Roses  349. 

—  sous-Bois  3C6:  Appx., 

Fontinettea  388. 
Fourqueux  328. 
Franchard  367. 
Franconville  342.  347. 
Fr^pillon  348. 
Fresnes-lfes-Rungis  356. 
Frethun  388. 
Frette,  La  343. 


Eauplet  39 i. 

Ecouen  347. 

Elbeuf  395. 

EnghieB-leB-Bnina  339. 
— ,  Lac  d'  34i, 


Gris-Nez,  Cap  388. 
Gros-Bois,  Chat,  de  307. 

—  Fouteau  367. 

—  Noyer  349. 
Groslay  348. 
Guichet,  Le  353. 

Hangest  884. 
Harfleur  498. 
Hautes-Bruy6res     (Re- 

doute  des)  351. 
Hautie  or, 
HaaUl,  the  344. 
Havre,  Le  396. 
Hay,  L'  351. 
Herblay  343. 
Hesdigneul  384 
HouiUes  343  j  Appx.,  p.32. 

Igny  353. 
Ingouvillc  397. 
Isle-Adam,  V  346. 
Issy  296;  Appx.,  p.  31. 
Ivry  368;  Appx.,  p.  31. 

Javel  292. 

Joinville-le-Pont  305. 
Jonchere,  La  329. 
St.  Josse  384. 
Jouy-en-Josas  353. 

—  le-Comte  346. 
JuiUy  (CoU^ge  de)  379. 
St.  Just  -  en  -  Chauss^e 

387. 
Juvisy  368.  353.  359. 


aaillon  395. 
Garches  295.  327. 
Garenne,  La  326.  343. 

Appx..  p.  32. 
Games  ^55. 
Gennevilliers  291.  339. 
Gentilly  350:  Appx., 

pp.31,  34. 
St.  Germain,  He  293. 

—  en-Laye  329. 

—  Gr.-Ceint.  328.  323. 

—  la-NorviUe  357. 
Gif  353. 

Girard,  Monia  368. 
Gisors  390.  395. 
Glaci^re  (La),  see  Appx.,  Lillebonne  393. 

p.  34.  iLimours  353. 

Gonesse  369.  Linas  357. 

Gournay  390.  Loges,  Les  333. 

Gonssain ville  369.  Longchamp  162.  292. 

Grange,  Chat,  de  la  307.  Longjumeau  356 

—  aux-Cercles,  La  356.  "'"   '" 

—  d'Ory  355. 
St.  Gratien  340.  341. 
Gravelle  302.  304.  ^Oo. 
Gravigny  363. 

/Graville  398.  __ 

'Grenelle,  see  Appx..,p.'ii'^.  I^ownt^^^  ^v»« 


Landy,  Le  334. 
Laplace  360. 
Laversine  (Chat.)  376. 
St.  Leu-d'Esserent  377. 
—  Tavemy  348. 
LeuviUe  367. 
Levallois-Perret  291; 

Appx.,  p.  34. 
iLezarde,  the  398. 
iLiancourt  287. 
jLlane,  the  382. 
Lieusaint  360. 
Lilas,Les203.  304.  Appx., 


■  Longpont  356.  'f59. 
Longpr^  384. 


410 


INDEX. 


Loz^re  353. 
Luzarches  347. 

Machine,  La  329. 
Maffllers  347. 
Maison-Blanche ,  La,  see 

Appx.,  p.  34. 
Maisons-Alfort  302.  358 

Appx..  p.  31. 

—  Laffltte  3U.  396. 
Appx.,  p.32. 

Malabry  352. 

Malakofif  296.  349.  Appx. 

p.  31. 
Malaunay  390.  398. 
MalmaisoQ,  La  829. 
mianche,  Canal  de  lu  375. 
St.  Mand^  300 ^  Appx., 

pp.  31.  32. 
— ,  Lac  de  304. 
Mantes  395. 
Marche,  La  827. 
Marcoussis  357. 
MareU  328. 
Marines  346. 
Marlotte  368. 
Marly-le-Roi  327. 
— ,  Forest  of  327. 
Marne,  the  302.  359. 
Marqaise  388. 
St.  Martin-dn-Tertre  347, 
Massy  352.  353. 
■  Maubuisson,  Chat,  de  346. 
St.  Maur-dea-Foss^s  302. 

—  Port-Cr^teil  302. 
— ,  Canal  de  305. 
St.  Maurice  302. 
Mauvi^re  (Chat.)  354. 
St.  Maximin  376. 
Melun  360. 

Muriel  348. 

M^ry  346.  348. 

Meudon  298. 

St.  Michel-flur-Orge  359. 

Minimes,  Lac  des  306. 

Mitry-Claye  379. 

Money  ii.  xii. 

Montataire  377. 

Montceaux  360. 

Montereau  360. 

Montgeron  360. 

Montigny  342.  343.  368. 

MontivUliers  398. 

Montlh^ry  356. 

Montlignon  341. 

Montmagny  348. 
Ifontmorency  340. 
Jfontretout  295. 
MoDtreuil  304;   Appx., 

p.  31. 
3/ontrouge    289 ;    Appx 

p.  34. 
—  CGrand)  355. 


Montsoult  856.  346. 
Morangis  356. 
Moret  368. 
Mortefontaine  369. 
Motteville  39S. 
Moulin  des  Bochers  355. 
Moalineaux,  Les  292. 296. 
Appx.,  p.  31. 

Nanterre  326.  328. 
Nanteuil  379. 
Nesles  346. 
Neufchatel  390. 
Neuilly  159.  828. 

—  snr-Mame  106. 

—  Plaisance  806. 
NeuYille  343. 
Newhaven  388. 
Nid  de  FAigle  367. 
Nogent  -  sur  -  Mame  806. 
Nointel  347. 
Nointot  398. 
Noisy-le-Roi  326. 

—  le-Sec  339  \  Appx.,  p.32. 
St.  Nom-la-Bret.  3^.  328. 
Nonette,  the  376. 
NoTd,  Fort  du  368. 
Noye,  the  386. 
Noyelles  384. 

Oise,the343.3U.  376.387. 
Oissel  395. 
Orangis  359. 
Orge,  the  357. 
Orgemont  341. 
Orl^ans-Geinture  358. 
Orly  363. 
Ormesson  839. 
Ormoy  379. 
Orry-Coye  369. 

—  la-Ville  369. 
Orsay  353. 
8t.  Ouen209:  Appx.,p.34. 

—  rAunidne343.844.346. 
Ourcq,  Canal   de  V  201 

379. 
OutreauSSd. 

Pacy  sur  TEure  395. 
Palaiseau  353. 
Parle  1. 

Abattoirs  203. 

Acad^mie  Fran;.  246. 

—  de  Mddecine  252. 

Alcazar  d'Et^  36. 

St.  Antoine,  Faubourg 
xxvii.  300. 

Apartments  11. 

A':\\i&tVv3LXCv.  V^. 

Ate  ^ft   1t\om^\i^  ^m\ 

dft  V^VoWt  V^.  ^ 


Paris: 

Archives  de  la  Ville 
218. 

Ar&nes  de  Luttee  270. 

Arrival  1. 

Arrondissements 
xxviii. 

Art  Exhibitions  88. 

Arts  et  Metiers,  Con- 
servatoire des  176. 

AuberviUiers  208. 

Auteuill7i;  Appx., 
p.  34. 

Automobiles  39. 

Avenue  d*Antin  158. 

—  du  Bois-de^Boulogne 
169.  160. 

—  de  Breteuil  281. 

—  des  Champs-Elys^es 
159.  156. 

—  de  Clichy  206.  209. 
— -Daumesnil  301. 

—  Oambetta  186. 

—  des  Gobelins  268. 

—  de  la  Orande-Ar- 
m^  169.  160. 

—  Henri  Martin  171. 

—  Hoche  159. 

—  d  I^na  159. 

—  Kl^er  169. 

—  Montsouris  289. 

—  Montaigne  158. 

—  Kicolas  n.  166. 

—  de  rObBervatoire286. 
286. 

—  de  rOp^ra  78.  60. 

—  d'Orl^ns  289. 

—  de  St.  Ouen  209. 

—  Bachel  206. 

—  de  la  Btfpublique  74. 
179. 

—  du  Trocad^ro  166. 

—  Victor-Hugo  169. 

—  Victoria  ©. 

—  de  Villieri  199. 

—  de  Vincennes ,    see 
Appx.,  p.  34. 

Bagatelle  162. 

Bal  BolUer  37.  286. 

Balls  36. 

Banks  61. 

Banque  de  France  193. 

Bardo  290. 

Barracks  69.  193.  218. 

Bassin  delaVillette2Ql. 

—  de  TArsenal  801. 
Bastille,  Plaoe  de  la  7a 
Baths  47. 


INDEX. 


411 


Paris: 
BelleviUe  203;  Appx. 

p.  84. 
Bercy  301.  369. 
Biblioth^que  Kationale 

187. 

—  de  TArsenal  218. 

—  Ste.  Genevifeve  243. 

—  Ma2arine  247. 

—  de  la  Vine  217. 
BicStre  290. 

Bird  Market  223. 
Blind  Asylum  271.  281 
Boarding  Houses  10. 
Boating  88. 
Bois  de  Boulogne  160. 

—  de  Vincennes  304. 
Bon  MarcW  40.  271. 
Book  Sales  194. 
Booksellers  45. 
Botanic  Garden  267. 
Bottin  (directory)  xxx. 
Bouffes  Parisiens   36. 
Boulevards,  the  Old  or 

Inner  72. 
— ,  tlie  Outer  73.  204. 
— ,  the  New  73. 

—  d'Enceinte  73. 
Boulevard  Arago  288. 

270. 

—  Barb^fl  204. 

—  Beaumarchais  74.72. 

—  Bonne-Nouvelle  76. 

—  des  Capucinea  78. 

—  St.  Denis  75. 

—  des    Filles-du-Cal- 
vaire  74. 

—  St.  Germain  229. 

—  Haussmann  197. 

—  Henri  IV.  72.  218. 

—  des  Italiens  77. 

—  de  la  Madeleine  80. 

—  de  Magenta  75.  200. 

—  Malesherbes  197, 

—  St.  Marcel  268. 

—  St.  Martin  76. 

—  St.  Michel  228. 

—  Montmartre  77. 

—  Montpamaase  286. 

—  Ornano  204,  mnd 
Appx.,  p.  34. 

—  du  Palais  220. 

—  Poissonni&re  76. 

—  de  Port-Boyal  286. 
270. 

—  Ba«pail  286.  288. 

—  Richard-Lenoir  72. 
179. 

—  de  S^astopol  75. 
J  75. 

—  de  Straabourg  75.    i 

200.  \ 

—  du  Temple  74.  / 


Paris: 

Boulevard  Voltaire  74. 

179. 
Bourse,  la  198. 

—  de  Commerce  172, 

—  du  Travail  75. 
Brasseries  21. 
Bridges,  see  Fonts. 
Butte  aux  Gailles  270. 

—  Montmartre  204. 

—  Mortemart  161. 
Buttes-Chaumont ,  Les 

201. 
CabaretsArtistiques  86, 
Cabinet  des  Medailles 

et  Ant.  190. 
Cabs  22:  Appx.  p. 
Caf^s  19. 

—  Concerts  36. 
Canal  St.  Denis  201.334. 

—  St.  Martin  72.  201. 

—  de  rOurcq  201. 
Carriages  22. 
Casernes  69.  193.  218. 
Casino  de  Paris  36.  37. 
Catacombs,  the  289. 
Cattle  Market  202. 
Cemetery     of    Mont- 
martre 206. 

—  Montpamasse  287. 

—  of  Passy  171. 

—  of   Pfere  -  Lachaise 
180. 

—  of  Picpus  3C0. 
Cercles  39. 
Chambre  des  Ddput^s 

272. 

—  des  Notaires  64. 
Champ-de-Mars  282. 

— ,  Ligne  du  171. 
Champs-Elys^s  155. 
Chapelle  Expiatoire 
197. 

—  St  Ferdinand  159. 
— ,  Sainte  221. 
Charonne  Appx.,  p.  34. 
Chauss^e  d''Antin, 

Quartler  195. 
Chemins  de  Fer  de 

Ceinture  27.  Appx., 

p.  84. 
Chemists  41. 
Chureh-music  38. 
Churches  49.  58. 

St.  Ambroise  179. 

American  Church  49. 

Assumption  85. 

St.  Augustin  197. 

Baptist  50. 

St,  Bernard  204. 

BUlettes,  des  50. 
Calvinist  60. 
Ste.  Clotilda  2:18. 


Paris: 
Churches : 

Congregational  49. 
St.  Denis-du-St.  Sa- 

erement  74. 
Ste.  Elisabeth  210. 
English  49. 
Episcopal  49. 
St.  Etienne-du-Mont 

243. 
St.  Eugene  76. 
St.  Enstache  174. 
St.  Francois -Xavier 

281. 
Free  Churches  50. 
St.    Germain -TAu- 

xerrois  62. 

—  des-Pr^s  252. 
St.  Gervais  69. 
Invalides  279. 

St.  Jacques-du-Haut- 

Pas  285. 
St.  Jean-Bapti8te202. 

—  et    St.    Francois 
213. 

St.  Joseph-des-Car- 

mes  268. 
St.    Jalien-le-Pauvre 

229. 
St.  Laurent  200. 
St.  Louis  279. 

—  en-rile  227. 
Lutheran  50. 
Madeleine  81. 
Ste.  Marie  50.  70. 
St.  M^dard  270. 
St.  Merri  66. 

St.     Nicolas  -  des- 

Champs  178. 
St.  Nieolas-du-Char- 

donnet  245. 
Notre-Dame  224. 
Notre  -  Dame  -  d' Au- 

teuU  172. 

—  des-Blancs-Man- 
teaux  212. 

—  de  Bonne-Nouvelle 
76. 

—  des-Champs  288. 

—  de  Clignancourt 
206. 

—  de  Consolationl65. 

—  de-la-Croix  186. 

—  de-Lorette  195. 

—  des-Victoires  193. 
Oratoire  50.  62. 
Panthdon  240. 
St.P«.u\  ^\.  %\..\^wvv^ 


412 


INDEX. 


Paris: 
Churches : 
St.  de-Montrouge  289. 
Protestant  50. 
Redemption  60. 
St.  Roch  86. 
Rus8ian3199. 
Sacrd  CoBur  205. 
Sainte-Chapelle  221. 
Scotland,  Church  of 

49. 
St.  S^verin  228. 
Sorbonne  239. 
St.  Sulpice  253. 
St.  Thomas -d''Aquin 

27i. 
Trinity  196. 
Val-de-Grace  286. 
St.  Vincent-de-Paul 

203. 
Visitation,  Church  of 

the  70. 
Wesleyan  Chapel  49. 
Cigars  41. 

Circulating  librarie846. 
Circuses  35. 
Cirque  Palace  36.  157. 

—  d'Hiver  35.  74. 

—  Medrano  35.  206. 

—  Nouveau  35.  85. 
Citd,  island  219. 
Clichy  209. 
Clinique  d' Accouche- 
ment 286. 

Clubs  89. 

Cluny,   Hdt.  et  Mus^e 

de  229. 
Coaches  25. 
Collections,seeMasue8. 
College  Chaptal  200. 

—  Ecossais  244. 

—  de  France  240. 

—  Goubaux  200. 

—  Mazarin  245. 

—  des  Quatre  Nations 
245. 

—  RoUin  204. 
Colonial  Office  151. 
Colonne  de  Juillet  71. 

—  Vend6me  84. 
ComcdieFrangaise.  61. 
Commissionaires  45. 1. 
Communes    Annexees 

xxviii. 
Compagnie  des  Pompes 

Fun6bres  180. 
Comptoir  d'Escompte 

77. 
Concerts  36.  37. 
Conciergerie  222. 
Confectioners  22.  41. 
Conservatoire  des  Arts^ 
et  MtStiers  175. 


Paris: 
Conservatoire   de   Hu- 

sique  76.  37. 
Consulates  60.  61. 
Corps  Ldgislatif  272. 
Cour  d' Assises  221. 
Courcelles,  see  Appx., 

p.  34. 
Cours-la-Reine  164. 

—  de  Vincennes  3U). 
Credit  Lyonnais  78. 
Cuisines  de  St.  Louis 

222. 

Custom-house  xlii.  1. 

Cycling  xiv.  38. 

Deaf  and  C>umb  Insti- 
tution 285. 

Dentists  48. 

Dhuis,  Reservoir  de  la 
187. 

Diaconesses  Protestan- 
tes,  Maison  des  49. 

Diary  64. 

Directory  xxx. 

Distribution  of  Time 
53. 

Divine  Service  49. 

Dog  Show  165. 

Ddme  des  Invalides  279. 

Douane  1.  xiii. 

Drainage  64. 

Druggists  41. 

Duval,  Bouillons  16. 

Ecole  Arago  300. 

—  d^Arboriculture  304. 

—  des  Arts  et  Manu- 
factures 179. 

—  des  Beaux-Arts  248. 

—  de  Botanique  267. 

—  BonUe  300. 

—  Coloniale  285. 

—  de  Droit  240. 

—  Estienne  270. 

—  des  Ilautes  Etudes 
Commercial  es  199. 

—  MassUlon  218. 

—  de  M^decine  229. 

—  Militaire  284. 
de  Gymnastique 

306. 

—  Normale  Sup^rieure 
243. 

—  de  Pharmacie  286. 

—  Polytechnique  244. 

—  Pratique  229. 

—  Sup^rieure   de 
Guerre  284. 

eiea  Kliuea  284. 


^A'ja^e,  Vw\«A*  «iftV  VofeX 


Paris: 
Embassies  50.  61. 
English  Churches  49. 
Esplanade  des  Invalides 

m. 

Etablissement    horti- 

cole  173. 
Exchange  193. 
Exhibition  of  1900, 2=^. 
B^uboo^s  xxvii. 
Faabourg  St.  Qermaip 

270. 
St.  Ferdinand,   Cha- 

pelle  169. 
Fdte  des  Floors  161. 
Fiacres  22. 
Figaro  Office  194. 
Fleariste    de  la   ViUe 

172. 
Flower  Markets  45. 228. 

—  Show  166. 
Folies-Berg^re  36. 

—  Marigny  36.  167. 
Fontaine  Cnvier  266. 

—  de  Grenelle  271. 

—  des  Innocents  175. 

—  Louyois  187. 

—  dn  Luxembourg  25S. 

—  de  Mddicls  263. 

—  St.  Michel  228. 

—  Moliire  187. 

—  Notre-Dame  227. 

—  de  rObserratoire 
286. 

—  Richelieu  187. 

—  St.  Sulpice  254. 

—  de  la  Victoire  63. 
Football  39. 
Fortifications  zzriii. 
Foundling  Hospital 

288. 
Franco-English  Guild 

11.  47. 
Furnished  Apartmenta 

11. 
Galerie  Durand-Buel 

3S.  258. 
Garde-Meuble  281. 
Gardiens  de  la  Paix 

zzz. 
Gare  de  TArsenal  72. 

—  d'Austerlits  26. 

—  de  TEst  26.  30a 

—  desInTaUdes96.m 

—  St.  Lasare  26.  196. 

—  du  Luxembourg  37. 

—  de  Lyon  2fT. 

—  Montpamaase  26. 

\  —  ^^^tti*.'«L'Ml 
\   —  «^i.€i*stta"«k.T\V 


INDEX. 


413 


ParU: 
Oare  de  8tra8l)Oiirg  26. 
200. 

—  de  ViAceiuie8  26.  72. 
St.  Gtonnain/Faaboarg 

271. 
Qobelins,  the  268. 
Golf  GouTse  89. 
Goods  Agents  28. 
Qrand-Montrouge  288. 
Grands  Magasins  40. 
Grenelle,  Artesian  Well 

of  281. 
Halle  an  Bl^  172. 

—  anx  Vins  267. 
Halles  Centrales  173. 
Hertford  Hospitol  49. 
Hippodrome  85. 

—  de  Longchamp  162 
History  xxi. 
Hdpital  Broea  270. 

—  Laennec  271. 

—  Lariboisiire  204. 

—  de  Lonreine  270. 

—  du  Midi  286. 

—  l^ecker  271. 

—  de  la  Piti«  267. 

—  Ricord  286. 

—  de  la  Salpdtriire  267. 

—  Tenon  186.    . 

—  daVal-de-ar&ee286. 
Horse  Races  88.  162. 
Hospice  de  Biedtre  290. 

—  des  Enfants-Aflfis- 
t^s  288. 

—  Wallace  49. 
Hospitals  48.  49.  224. 

270.  286.  900.  801. 
Hotels  2. 
Hdtel  Barbette  212. 

—  de  Beanvais  69. 

—  de  B^tbnne  70. 

—  de  Ghalon- Luxem- 
bourg 69. 

—  de  Cluny  229. 

—  Crillon-GoisUn  88 

—  Dieu  224. 

—  dn  Figaro  195. 

—  de  Hollande  218. 

—  des  Invalides  274. 

—  Lambert  228. 

—  Lamoignon  213. 

—  Lauzun  228. 

—  de  Mayenne  70. 

—  des  Monnaies  247. 

—  de  Nesle  245. 

—  d'Ormesson  70. 

—  des  Postes   28.  173. 

—  de  Sens  218. 

—  de  Boubise  210. 
—  de  SnUj  70. 

—  dea  Ta^pbonea  173. 

—  dn  Timbre  193.        1 


Paris: 
Hdtel  la  Valette  218. 

—  des  Ventes  194. 

—  de  Ville  65. 
Ue  de  la  Git^  219. 

—  des  Oygnes  173. 298. 

—  St.  Lonis  227. 

—  LouTiers  218. 
Imprimerie  Nationale 

218. 
Inatitnt  Catholique  268. 

—  de  France  245. 

—  Pastenr  49.  288. 

—  Polyglotte  47. 

—  Rudy  47. 
Institution  Chevalier 

2U. 

—  dea  Jennes  Aveugles 
281. 

—  des  Sonrds-muets 
285. 

—  Ste.  Purine  172. 
Inyalides,  Hdtel  des 

274. 
Jardin  d^Aeelimatation 
162. 

—  botanique  267. 

—  du  Luxembourg  262. 

—  des  Plantes  264. 

—  des  Tuileries  153. 
Jeu  de  Paume  825. 
July  Column  71. 
Lafiayette^s  Tomb  800. 
Lectures,  Public  178. 
Letters  29. 
Libraries,  public,   see 

Bibliofh^ues. 
Longchamp  161.  162. 
Lost  Property  Office 

224. 
Louviers,  He  218. 
LouTois,  Font,  et  Place 

187. 
Louvre  86. 
African    Antiquities 

91. 
Asiatic  Museum  99 

145. 
Bronzes,   Ancient 

142. 
Chalcographie  151. 
Chinese  Museum  160. 
Collection  of  Draw- 
ings 143. 

—  Campana  148. 

—  His  de  la  Salle  144 

—  La  Case  141. 

—  Grandidier  151. 

—  Thiers  14a. 


Egyptian  Museuin. 
101.  146. 


Paris: 
LottTre: 
Ethnographical   Mu- 
seum 160.     t.  f 
Galerie  d'Apollon  137. 

—  Denon  90. 

—  Mollien  90. 

Grande  Galerie  119. 

Jewish  Museum  101. 

Marine  Museum  150. 

Mediaeval,  Renais- 
sance and  Modern 
Objects  of  Art  144. 

PaviUon  Denon  90. 
109. 

—  derHorloge(Sully) 
142. 

Picture  Gallery  110. 

Pottery,  Antique  148. 

Eotonde  d'ApoUon 
187. 

Salle  des  Biiouz  An- 
tiques 140. 

—  des  Boites  151. 

—  Duchatel  114. 

—  Henri  U.  141. 

—  des  Moulages  90. 

—  des  Portraits  137. 

—  des  Primitifs  116. 

—  des  Prisonniers 
^Barbares  90. 

—  des   Sept  Ghe- 
min€es  140. 

Salles  de  la  Colon- 
nade 145. 

—  Fran^aises  181. 
Salon  Carrd  115. 
SoulQjures,  Ancient 

80. 

— ,  Mediaeval  and  Re- 
naissance 103. 

— ,  Modern  106. 
Lunatic  Asylum  802. 
Luxembourg,  Palais  du 

255. 
— ,  Mus^e  du  256. 
— ,  Jardia  du  262. 
Lyc^e  Camot  199. 

—  Charlemagne  70. 

—  Condorcet  197. 

—  Henri  IV.  244. 

—  Janson  de  Sailly 
171. 

—  Louis-le-Grand  240. 

—  St.  Louis  238. 

—  Montaigne  285. 
Machines,  Galerie  des 

288. 


—  Henri  U.  %».  iOft.V    lfc»KV  Q«v2s^^^  *^- 


414 


I!n)EX. 


Paris: 
Maine  of  the-lst  Arron- 
dissement  62. 

—  2nd— 193. 

—  8rd  —  210. 

—  4th  —  69. 

—  5th  —  243. 

—  6th  — 254. 

—  10th  —  75. 

—  11th  —  179. 

—  13th  —  270. 

—  14th  -  289. 
— :i6th  —  171. 

—  18th  —  206. 

—  19th  —  201. 
— '  20th  —  186. 
Maison    Blanche,   La, 

see  Appx.,  p.  84. 

—  Chardon-Lag.  172. 

—  d'Education    de    la 
L^ion  d'Honneiir338. 

—  de  Francois  I.  165. 

—  Rossini  172. 
Maisons  meubl^es  6. 10. 

11. 

—  de  sant^  48. 
Manage  84. 
Haps  48. 

Marais,  Qnartier  dn 

212. 
Marbenf,  Qnartier  158. 
March^    auz  Bestianz 

202. 

—  auz  Flenrs  223. 

—  dn  Temple  210. 

—  de  la  Yillette  202. 
Market.  Central  173. 
Hatemity  Hospitals 

286. 
M^nilmontant  186.  187. 

Appx.,  p.  3i. 
Metropolitan  Railway 

27.  Appx.,  p.  83. 
Miniature   des   Affaires 

Etrang&res  273.  51. 

—  des  Finances  51. 

—  de  la  Guerre  272.  51. 

—  de  la  Marine  83. 61. 
Ministerial  Offices  61. 
Mint  247. 

Missions  50. 

—  Etrang&rea  271. 
Monceaux,  Pare  198. 
Money  U.  xii. 

—  Changers  51. 
Monnaie,  La  247. 
MontmArtre  204. 

— ,  Cemetery  of  206. 

Jf on  tpamasse ,   Ceme- 
tery of  2ffr. 
JToni-de-Pitft^  212. 
Montronge  288  \  Appx. 

p.  oi. 


Paris:  ParU: 

Montsonris,  Park  of 

289. 
Monument  of  Alphand 
160. 

—  of  Augier  263. 

—  of  Barye  228. 

—  Bobillot  179. 

—  ofBoassingaultl76. 

—  of  Chopin  199. 

—  of  Corot  199. 

—  of  Daubenton  266. 

—  de  la  Defense   de 
Paris  292.  828. 

—  of  Delacroix  262. 

—  of  Dolet  238. 

—  ofCol.  Flatters  290. 

—  of  Qambetta  151. 

—  of  Gounod  198. 

—  of  La  Fontaine  171 

—  of  Leclaire  209. 

—  of  Lemattre  75. 

—  of  Marie  Deraismes 
209. 

—  of  Maupassant  198. 

—  of  Moncey  'J0&. 

—  of  Murger  268. 

—  of  Simon  81. 

—  of  Thomas  198. 

—  of  Watteau  262. 
Morgue  227. 
Mortemart,  Butte  161. 
Moulin  Rouge  87. 
Muette,  La  171. 
Mus^e  d^Anatomie  229. 

—  d'Anthro]|ologie 
Broca  229. 

—  des  Antiquity  Ka- 
Uonales  880. 

—  des  Archives  211. 

—  de  PArm^e  279. 

—  d'Artillerie  276. 

—  Astronomique  286. 

—  Camavalet  213. 

—  C^ramique  297. 

—  Cemuschi  199. 

—  de  Cluny  230. 

—  des  Copies  249. 

—  Dupuytren  229. 

—  d'Ennery  160. 

—  Ethnographiquel70. 

—  Forestier  305. 

—  de  Galli^ra  166. 

—  du  Garde -Meuble 
281. 

—  Gr^vin  87. 

—  Guimet  167. 

—  Ha«L7  *ai.  \ 


Mus^e  Historique  de  la 
Ville  218. 

—  Industrie!  175. 

—  du  Louvre  80. 

—  du  Luxembourg  266. 

—  deMme.deCaeii247. 

—  des  M<daiUes  190. 

—  de  Min^ralogie  284. 

—  Mon^talre  247. 

—  des  Monlages  170. 

—  de  Mosiqiie  76. 

—  de  rOp^ra  80. 

—  Orflla229. 

—  Pal^graphique  211. 

—  P^dagogiqne  286. 

—  des  Poupees  286. 

—  de  la  Revolution  326. 

—  de  Sculpture  Com- 
part 170. 

—  Soeial374. 

—  des  Tbezmes  28Gi 

—  des  Yoitnree  836. 
Music  HaUs  86. 
Napoleon  I.''8  Tomb  280. 
Natural    History   Mu- 
seum 264. 

Neuilly  159. 
Newspapers  46. 
Notre-Dame  224. 
Nurses  49. 

Obelisk  of  Luxor  83. 
Observatoire  288. 
Oculists  48. 
Oddon  88.  263. 
Of fi cede  Commerce 77. 
Old  Paris  166. 
Olympia  86.  87.  80. 
Omnibuses  1.  28. 

Op^ra  Comique  83.  77. 

—  Populaire  75. 
St.  Ouen  209$  Appx., 

p.  84. 
Ouest-Gelnture  296; 

Appx.,  p.  84. 
Palais  des  Beaux-Arts 

156.  lOT. 

—  Bourbon  272. 

—  de  OastiUe  169. 

—  du  Corps  L^latif 
272. 

—  de  TElyste  166. 

—  de  Olace  89.  iS7. 

—  de  rinstitnt  246. 

—  de  Justice  290. 

—  de  la  L^on  dlion- 


INDEX. 


415 


Paris: 
Palais  des  Tournelles 
217. 

—  du  Trocad€ro  169. 

—  des  Tuileries  161. 
Panoramas  37. 170. 206. 
Panthton  240. 
Pantin  208  •,  Appx.  ,p.82. 
Pare  Monceaux  188. 

—  Montsouris  289. 
Parcels  29. 
Parisiana  (Caf^Oon- 

cert)  77. 
Passage  JouflFroy  77. 

—  de  rOp^ra  77. 

—  des  Panoramas  77, 

—  des  Princes  77. 

—  Vivlenne  192. 
Passports  ziii. 
Passy  170)  Appx.,  p.24. 
Patisseries  22. 
Pavilion  de  HanoTre78. 
Pensions  10. 

P&re  -  Lacliaise ,  Ceme- 
tery of  180. 

Petit-Montroose  289. 

Phonographs  87. 

Physicians  48. 

Picpus,  Cemetery  300. 

Picture  Gallery 
(Louvre)  110. 

—  (Luxembourg)  269, 

—  (VersaUles)  812. 
Place  de  la  BastiUe  70. 

—  Blanche  206. 

—  de  la  Bourse  193. 

—  du  Carrousel  168. 

—  du  Ch&teau  d'Eau 
74. 

—  du  Ch&telet  68. 

—  de  Clichy  209. 

—  de  la  Concorde  82. 

—  Daumesnil  802. 

—  Denfert  -  Bbchereau 
288. 

—  des  Etats-Unis  169. 

—  de  rBtoile  158. 

—  de  TEurope  196. 

—  Gambetta  186. 

—  de  Grive  68. 

—  de  THotel-de-Ville 
68. 

—  d'ltalie  270. 

—  Lobau  69. 

—  Halesherbes  199. 

—  Maubert  238.  246. 

—  M^dicis  239. 

—  St.  Michel  228. 

—  Moncey  209. 

—  Monge  270. 

—  de  la,  Nation  800.     I 
—  de  rOp6n  78. 
—  du  PalaU-BqjBl  59./ 


Paris: 
Place  du  Parvis-Kotre- 
Dame  224. 

—  St.  Pierre  205. 

—  Pigalle  206. 

—  des  Pyr^n^es  186. 

—  de  la  B^publique 
74. 

—  de  BiToli  86. 

—  de  la  Sorbonne  23 

—  St.  Sulpice  268.  264. 

—  du  Th^&tre-Fran- 
(ais  61. 

—  du  Trocad^ro  169. 

—  du  Trdne  300. 

—  Vauban  281. 

—  Venddme  84. 

—  des  Victoires  192. 

—  Voltaire  179. 

—  des  Vosges  217. 

—  Wagram  199. 
Point-du-JouT.  see 

Appx.,  pp.  34,  36. 
Pointe  St.  Bustache  176. 
Policemen  xxx. 
Pont  Alexandre  m. 

166.  274. 

—  de  r  Alma  166. 

—  d^Arcole  68. 

—  des  Arts  246. 

—  d'Austerlitz  264.302. 

—  d*Auteull  172.  293, 

—  deBercy  801;  Appx., 

—  du  Carrousel  268. 

—  au  Change  64. 

—  de  la  Concorde  83 

—  de  Conflans  801. 802. 

—  de   Flandre,   see 
Appx.,  p.  84. 

—  de  Grenelle  172. 

—  dl^na  170. 

—  d'lvry  301. 

—  des  Invalides  165. 

—  St.  Louis  227. 

—  St.  Michel  228. 

—  Mirabeau  172. 

—  National  301  •, 

—  Eoyal  158. 

—  des  Sts.  P^res  268. 

—  de  Solf^rino  272. 

—  Sully  218.  223. 

—  de  Tolbiac  801. 
Population  xxvi. 
Porte  Dauphinel60. 161 . 

—  St  Denis  76. 

—  Maillot  160 1  Ap^x, 
pp.  81,  34. 

—  St.  Martin  75. 

—  de  la  Muetie  ill. 
~  d'0rl4anB  856. 


Paris: 
Post  Office  28.  178. 
Pri^fecture  de  Police 
224. 

—  de  la  Seine  66. 
Preliminary  Drive  52. 
Pr^-St-Gervais  203. 
Prison  de  la  Concier- 

gerie  222. 

—  de  la  Force  70. 

—  de  la  Boquette  179. 

—  de  la  Santd  270. 
Private  Apartments  11. 
Protestant  Churches  60. 
Quai  Debilly  165. 

—  delaConf€rencel64. 

—  des  Orf^vres  224. 
Quartier  de  la  Chauss^e 

d'Antin  196. 

—  St.  Germain  219.271. 

—  Latin  10  219.  223. 

—  du  Marais  212. 

—  Marbeuf  158. 

—  du  Temple  210. 
Bace  Courses  38.  161. 

162.209.806.340.342. 

8U.  370. 
Bail  ways  xiii. 
Bailway  Agents  28. 

—  Offices  27. 

—  Omnibuses  1. 
~  Stations  25. 
Banelagh,  the  171. 
Beading  Booms  46. 
Beservoirs  187.  208. 

290.  295. 
Bestaurants  11. 
Boman  Baths  237. 
Bue  d'Allemagne  201. 
—'St.  Antoine  69.  72. 

—  du  Bae  271. 

—  de  la  Banque  193. 

—  de  Chabrol  195. 

—  de  Chateaudun  196. 

—  delaCbauss^e-d'An- 
tin  78. 

—  St.  Denis  76. 

—  Drouot  77.  194. 

—  Etienne-Marcel  193. 

—  du  Faubourg -St- An- 
toine 72.  800. 

St-Denis  76. 

Montmartre  77. 

Poissonnifere  76. 

du-Temple  74. 

—  de  Grenelle  271. 

—  d'Hauteville  76. 

—  St.  Honors  86. 


-J. 


416 


INDEX. 


Paris: 
Bue  de  Maabenge  195. 

—  Monge  2U.  270. 

—  Montmartre  T7. 

—  Mozart  ITO. 

—  de  la  Paix  78. 

—  Le  Pelctier  78. 

—  Poissonni&re  76. 

—  Prony  199. 

—  des  Pyramides  86. 

—  duQtiatre-Septembre 
78.  194. 

—  IWanimir  178.  194. 

—  de  Rennes  253. 

—  de  Richelieu  77. 187. 

—  de  Bivoli  61.  84. 
-—  de  la  Boquette  179. 

—  de  Boagemont  77. 

—  Boyale  81. 

—  Scribe  80. 

—  Soufflot  240. 

—  Taitbout  78. 

—  du  Temple  68.  75. 
210. 

—  des  TuOerles  154. 

—  de  Tnrbigo  75.  175. 

—  Vivieime  77.  194. 
Saddle  Horses  23. 
Sainte-Chapelle  221. 
Salle  Silvestre  195. 

—  Wagram  37. 
Salles  de  Dnnse  37. 
Salon,  tbe  88. 
Savonnerie,  la  268. 
Scala  36.  200. 
Scots  College  244. 
S^minaire  de  St.  Sal- 

pice  254. 

—  des  Missions  Etran- 
gferes  271. 

Sergents  de  Ville  xxx. 
Sewers  64. 
Shops  39. 

Sick  Children*8  Hos- 
pital 271. 
Skating  39. 
Slaughter-houses  203. 
Sleeping  Car  Co.  4. 
Sorbonne,  the  2^. 
Sports  38. 
Square  d'Anvers  204. 

—  des  Arts  et  Mi^ticrs 
75.  175. 

—  des  Batignolles  200. 

—  du  Carrousel  153. 

—  Cluny  238. 

—  des  Epjnettes  209. 

—  Louvoia  187. 

—  dea  Manages  271. 

—  Monge  244. 

—  ifontholon  195. 

—  de  Montrouge  289. 

—  de  rOp6ra,  80. 


Paris: 
Square  Parmentier  179. 

—  da  Temple  210. 
--  de  la  Trinity  196. 

—  VintimiUe  209. 
Stamps  51. 

Statue  of  the  Abb^  de 
TEp^e  285.  825. 

—  of  Arago  289. 

—  of  Beauhamais  274. 

—  of  Beaumarchais  70. 

—  of  B^anger  210. 

—  of  Berlioz  209. 

—  of  Bernard  240. 

—  of  Bichat  229. 

—  of  Louis  Blanc  270. 

—  of  Boucher  88. 

—  of  Broca  229. 

—  of  Bud€  240. 

—  of  Ghampollion  240. 

—  of  Ohappe  271. 

—  of  Charcot  268. 

—  of  Charlemagne  224. 

—  of  Charlet  289. 

—  of  Chartier  199. 

—  of  Coligny  62. 

—  of  Condorcet  247. 

—  of  Dante  240. 

—  of  Danton  229. 

—  of  Daubenton   163. 

—  of  Daumesnil  303. 

—  of  Diderot  204.  253. 

—  of  Dolet  245. 

—  of  Dumas  199. 

—  of  Flachat  200. 

—  of  Fourier  209. 
-^  of  Qambetta  151. 

—  of  Gamier  285. 

—  of  Gutenberg  213. 

—  of  Henri  IV.  223. 

—  of  Joan  of  Arc  86. 
268. 

—  of  Lafayette  A 
Washington  169. 

—  of  Lamartine  171. 

—  of  Larrey  286. 

—  of  Lavoisier  81. 

—  of  Leblanc  .176. 

—  of  Ledru-Rollin  179. 

—  of  Le  Verrier  286. 

—  of  Liberty  172. 

—  of  Louis  xm.  217. 

—  of  Louis  XIV.   193, 
214. 

—  of  Marcel  66. 

—  of  Meissonier  88. 

—  of  Molifere  187. 

—  oi  l\OTite^  909. 

—  oi  Ya.UMl  *aft- 


Paris: 

Statue  of  ParmeBtler 

leo. 

—  of  Paseal  68. 

—  of  Pastenr  340. 

—  of  Perronet  109. 

—  of  Pinal  288. 

—  of  Baflfet  88. 

—  of  Baspail  287. 

—  of  Benaudot  224. 

—  of  the  Bepublie  74. 
245. 

—  of  Bicord  286. 

—  of  Boussean  243. 

—  of  Sedaine  204. 

—  of  Shakspeare   198. 

—  of  Velazquez  88. 

—  of  ViUon  2U. 

—  of  Voltaire  244.  247. 

—  of  Washington  166. 

—  of  Washington  A 
La&yette  1^. 

Steamboat  Offioea  38. 
Steamboats  25 }  Appx., 

p.  85. 
Swimming-baths  47. 
Synagogues  50. 
Tabacs.  Manufacture 

des  281. 
Tables  d'H6te  16. 
Tea  Booms  22. 
Telemph  Offices  30. 

Telephones  80.  178. 
Temple,  Faubourg  da 

zztU. 
— ,  Quartier  du  210. 
Theatres  81. 
Th^tre   de    TAmbigu 

Comique  85.  75. 

—  Antoine  34. 

—  de  TAth^n^e  85. 

—  des   Bouffea    Pari- 
sians 35. 

—  du  Chfttelet  84.  64. 

—  de  Chiny  86. 

—  de  la  Oomtfdie  fran- 
caise  88.  61. 

—  D^azet  85. 

—  Franeais  83.  61.* 

—  de  la  Gatt^  84.  175. 

—  du  Gymnase  88.  76. 

—  Marigny  88.  167. 
— ,  Nouveau  8T. 

—  desNonyeaut^SSTS. 

—  de  rOdton  83.  263. 

—  de  rOpdra  83.  78. 

—  de  I'OMra-Comiqae 

\       ^V. 


INDEX. 


417 


Paris: 
The&tre  de  la  Porte-St, 
Martin  34.  75. 

—  de   la  Benaissance 
34.75. 

—  de  la  R^publique  35. 

—  Marigny  157. 

—  Robert  Houdin  35. 

—  Sarah  Bemhard  84. 
64. 

—  des  Varidt^  34.  77. 

—  du  Vaudeville  38. 78. 
Theatre  Offices  32. 
Thermes  237. 
Tobacco  Manufactory 

281. 
Topography  xxvi. 
Tour  Eiffel  282. 
^  St.  Jacques  63. 

—  de  Jean  sans  Peur 
175. 

—  de  la  Liberia  2ia 

—  du  Temple  210. 
Tramways  24 ;  Appx., 

pp.  24-32. 
Tribunal  de  Commerce 

223. 
Trocad^ro,   Palais    du 

169. 
— ,  Pare  du  170. 
Tuileries,  the  161. 
— ,  Jardin  des  153. 
University  238. 

—  HaU  5p. 
Val-de-Grace  286. 
Vanne,  B^servoir  de  la 

290. 
Vendome  Column  84. 
Villette,  La  202. 
Voitures  1.  22. 
Weights  xxxi. 
Zoological  Garden  163. 

264. 


Pierrefitte  368. 
Pierrelaye  848. 
Piple,  Chat,  du  807. 
Plaine-Voyageurs,  La 
334. 

—  St.  Denis,  La  380. 
Plant^Ghampiguy,  Le307. 
Plessis-Bellevllle ,  Le 

379 

—  Piquet,  Le  850. 
Point-du-Jour,  see  Appx., 

pp.  34,  35. 
Pointe-Baquet,  La  349. 
Poissy  395. 

—  Grande-Ceinture  33J 
Pont  d' Antony  356. 

—  de  rArche  395. 

—  de  Briaues  384. 

—  de  Flanore,  see  Appx., 
p.  34. 

—  Remy  384. 

—  de  la  Bdvolte  331. 

—  de  St.  Cloud  292. 

—  de  Sevres  292. 

—  de  Soissons  380. 
Ponthierry  360. 
Pontoise  344.  390. 
Port-Cr^teU  302. 

—  Marly  329. 

—  Boyal  350. 
Pr^cy  377. 
Presles  346.  347. 
St.  Prix  341. 
Puteaux  292. 
Puys  390. 


Faris-Denfert  850. 
Parmain  346. 
Passy  170;  Appx.,  p, 
Pavilly  398. 
Pecq,  Le  327. 
Perray-Vaucluse  859. 
Perreux,  Le  806. 
Persan- Beaumont  377. 
Petit-BieStre,  Le  358. 

—  Bourg  359. 

—  Chambord  356. 

—  Massy,  Le  356. 

—  Nanterre  843. 

—  Vaux  858. 
Peupliers,  Les 
Picquigny  384. 
Pierre  Tare   -' 

St.  Pierre-h 
—  du  Vaumy 

Basdbmmm.  P&ria. 


34. 


ly  384.  , 

trqimiBe  317.  /• 
'jia-CBlais  387.  /I 
irray  395.  /i 


Raincy  (Le),  see  Appx., 

p.  32. 
Bang   du   Fliers -Verton 

3^. 
Bap^e-Bercy  (La),  see 

Appx.  p.  34. 
Beine  Blanche,  Chat,  de 

la  376.  369. 

•  --.  Etang  de  la  376, 
St.   Bemy-16s-Ghevreuse 

358. 
Reuilly  301. 
St.  Riquier  384. 
Bis-Orangis  859. 
Robinson  351.  350. 
St.  Roch  384. 
Rocher,  Le  353. 
Rolleboise  895. 
Romainville804;  Appx., 

p.  32. 
Rond-Point  des  Bergires 

328. 

de  la  Defense  32&. 

Bosny  395;  Appx.,  p.  ^. 
'—  sous  Bois  806. 
Rouen  390. 
fBoyaumont  347. 
14th  Edit. 


Rue  328.  384. 
Rueil  327. 
Rungis  351. 

Saclay  (Etang  de)  353. 
Sannois  341.  343. 
Saquet  (Moulin)  357. 
Sarcelles  348. 
Sartrouville  344;  Appx., 

p.  32. 
Saulx-les-Ohartreux  35iJ. 
Sausseron,  the  346. 
Savigny-sur-Orge  358. 
Sceaux  351. 

—  Ceinture  350. 
S^guin,  He  293. 
Seine-Port  860. 
Selle,  the  385. 
S^nart,  Forest  of  359. 
Senlis  377. 
Senlisse  854. 
Sevran-Livry  379. 
Sevres  297. 
SognoUes  848. 

Soisy  340. 
Solle,  la  368. 
Somme,  the  385. 
Sotteville  395. 
Southampton  396. 
Stains  368. 
Stors  348. 
Sucy-Bonneuil  307. 

—  en-Brie  307. 
Suresnes  292. 

—  Longchamp  292. 
Survilliers  369. 

Taverny  348. 

Thive,  the  368. 

Thieux-Nantouillet  379. 

Touques,  the  398. 

Tour,  Chat,  de  la  341. 
352. 

Tr^port,  Le  384. 

Trianon,    Grand  and  Pe- 
tit 324. 

Trou-Sal^  (Etang  du) 
353. 

Trouville-suivMer  498. 

Tulle,  Butte  de  la  343. 

TTs-Marines  346. 

Val,  Abbaye  du  348. 
— ,  Le  298. 
Valenton  353. 
Val^rien,  Mont  292. 
St.   VaMry-en-Caux  398, 


418 


HOTELS. 


Varenne-St-Hilaire,  La 
802. 

—  Chennevi^res,  La  307. 
Vanboyen  363. 
Vaucelles  348. 
Vaucluse  359. 
Vaucresson  327. 
Vangirard,    sec    Appx., 

p.  34. 
Vaux-de-Cernay  356. 

—  Ic-Penil  (Chat.)  361. 

—  Praslin  (Chat.)  361. 

—  le-Vicomte  (Chat.) 
361. 

VerneuU-rBtang  307. 
Vernon  396. 


Verriirefl,  Bois  de  903. 
Versailles  806. 
Vert-Galant  879. 
V^inet,  Le  327. 
Viarmea  347. 
Vigncux  359. 
Ville-d'Avray  296.  295. 

—  duBois,  La  366. 

—  Evrard  306. 
Villab^  360. 
Villebon  353. 
ViUeyuif  851.  357. 
Villemomble,  see  Appx. 

p.  32. 
Villeneuve-8t-Georges 
369.  353. 


Villenenve  TEtang  337. 
-  le-Roi  363. 
VUlepariais  379. 
ViUiers-le-Bel  348.  369. 
— ,  Bois  dc  804. 
Vincennes  303. 
VinenU  377. 
ViroQay  806. 
Vitry  357.  858. 
Vosves  360. 
Vulaines  360. 

Wisaous  366. 

T&res,  the  369.  360. 
Yvetot  398. 
Yvette,  the  363. 


Alphabetical  List  of  the  Hotels,  EestanrantSy  and 
Cafts  of  Paris  mentioned  in  the  Handbook. 

The  words  HoUl^  Restaurant^  etc.,  are  omitted  for  the  sake  of  brevity. 


Adelphi,  6. 
Albe  (d^),  4. 
Alexandra,  7. 
Ambassadeors  (des),  9. 
Angleterre  (d'),  8. 
Antin  (d'),  6. 
Arcade  (de  T),  7. 
Ath^n^e  (de  V\  8. 
Antriche  (d'),  8. 

Bade  (de),  6. 

Balmoral,  5. 

Bavi^re  (de),  8. 

Beau.)  on,  7. 

Beau-Sdjour,  8. 

Bean-Site,  4. 

Bedford,  7. 

Belgique  &  HoUande,  8. 

Bellevue,  4. 

Bellnt-Carol,  10. 

Bergfere,  8. 

Berne  (de),  6. 

Blondeau,  11. 

Bonaparte,  10. 

Bon-Lafontaine  (dn),  10. 

Bradford,  7. 

.Brenzfnger.  11. 
Brishton,  4. 
Briitol^  3. 
Brltanniqne,  9. 
■Buckingham,  7. 
Bargnndy,  6. 
Byron  6. 


Hotels  and  Pensions. 

Oailleux,  9. 
Calais  (de),  5. 
Campbell,  4. 
Gapucines  (des),  6. 
Cannes  (des),  10. 
Castiglione,  4. 
Castille  (de),  5. 
Chailley,  10. 
Champs-Elvs^es  (des),  7. 
Chatham,  3. 

Chemin  de  Fer  (da).  9. 
Chemin  de  Fer  du  Nord 

(du).  9. 
Cit^  Berg&re  &  Bemand 

(de  la),  8. 
Oldment-Marot,  7. 
Cluny  Square,  10. 
Cologne  (de),  8. 
Colonies  (des),  8. 
Columbia,  7. 
Concorde  (de  la),  7. 
Constantine  (de),  10. 
Continental,  3. 
CorneUle,  10. 
Cosmopolite,  9. 


iBomiiiVcV^  ^. 


13 

I 


Elys^e  (de  Pj,  7. 
Blys^e  Palace,  3. 
Empire  (de  T),  5. 
Etats-Unis  (des),  6. 
Etrangers  (des),  10. 
Europe  (deD,  Bonlev.  de 

Strasbourg,  9. 
Europe  (de  T),  R.  Le  Pe^ 

letier,  6. 

Famine  (Pensions  de),  10 

Favart,  6.  ^jr 

Ferras,  7.  ^ii 

Ferris,  11,  14.  ^ 

Florida,  7.  ^ 

Foyot,  7. 

Fran^ais,  9. 

France  (de),  Cit^  d' An  tin, 

6. 
— ,  Citd  Bergere,  8. 
France   A    de    Bretagn«,i 

(de),  10. 
France  et  Choiseul  (de), . 
France    &    de    Lorrain^, 

(de),  9.  ]? 

France  ti  de  Suisse  (de)', 

9. 


ie);i 
.^5 


jne  (de  la), 


,10. 

7. 

5. 

?  la),*  10. 

:iue8((le8),3. 
,  7. 


HOTELS. 

M^tropole,  5. 
iteurice,  S. 
Meyerbeer,  4. 
Mirabeau,  3. 
Modeme,  8. 

Montaigne,  J-    ^ .  ^    .^ 
Mont-St-Micbel  (du),  10 


10. 


ibion  (de),  4 

de),  5. 

3),    E.   Bona- 

3),  R.  Castl 

de  New-York 

1,7. 
and,  5. 

),  3. 

rg  (du),  10. 

e   K<»^    Yc 

deubl^es,  6, 11. 
►es,  7. 

id. 

1,9. 

it  (de),  6. 

des    Colonies 
10. 


Morand,  10. 

Ndva  (de  la),  6. 

New,  9.' 
Nicolo,  10,  11. 
Normandy,  4. 

Op^ra  (de  V),  6. 
Orient  (d^),  6. 
Oxford  &  de  Cambridge 
(d'),  6. 

Palace,  8. 
Palais  (du),  4. 
Palais-Royal  «  de 
I'Europe  (du),  8. 
Palmiers  (des),  8. 
Paris  (de),  7. 

—  4  de  Nice  (de),  ». 

—  &  d'Osborne  (de),  4. 
Pavilion  (du)'.  8. 
Pays-Bas  (des),  6. 
Perey,  7. 
Port-Mabon  (de),  0. 


auai- Voltaire  (du),  9. 

Eapp  &  Dupbot,  6. 
Bastadt  (de),  0. 
Begina,  6. 

Richer,  g.    "* 
Richmond,  6. 
Ritz,  3. 
Bivoli  (de),  7. 
Bonceray,  8. 
Bossini,  6. 
Bougemont,  8. 


419 

Boyal,  7. 
BusBie  (de),  6. 

St.  Georges,  6. 
St.  James,  4.  . 

St.  James  A  d' Albany,  6. 
St.  P^tersbourg,  6. 
St.  Pierre,  10. 
Ste.  Marie,  9. 
Saints-Pferes  (des),  10. 
Scribe,  4.      ^ 
Seine  (de),  10. 
S^ze  (de),  6. 
Splendide,  7. 
Strasbourg  (de),  9. 
Sue*  (de),  10. 
Suisse,  6. 

Tamise  (de  la),  6. 
Terminus  (Gare  St.  lia- 

zare),  3.         .      ^    - 
—  (Gare  d'Orl^ans),  5. 

Tite,  7. 

Tibre  fdu),  6. 

Tr^moille  (de  la),  4. 

Tr^vise  (de).  8. 

Trocad^ro  (du),  4. 

TJnivers  A    du  Portugal 
(de  D,  8. 

Valois  fde),  9. 
Van  Pelt,  11. 
Venddme,  3. 
Victoria,  6. 
Villa  Baleac,  10. 
Villa  Marceau,  10. 
Ville  de  New  York  (de 

la),  9. 
Violet,  8. 
Vivienne,  8. 
Vouillemont,  7. 
Voyageurs  (des),  9. 

JVn^am^  6. 

Westminsrt^i  K     "*— ^- 
Windsor,  4. 
IWood,  10. 


RestaurantB  and  Caf^s. 

18.  Barbotte,  18. 

16.  Blot,  19. 

eurs   (des1,  36.  Blottier,  18. 
I,  16.  20.  21.       BoBuf  k  la  Mode  (au),  17 
B.  d.  Italiens,    Bonne-NouvelVe,  17. 

Bonvalet,  18. 
yale,  16.  Bouillod  (Table  d'hSte), 

jlfde.J';,  iA     /    i6.  ' 

We    (PavWon  Bonillona  Duval,  15    16 

/    i7.  18. 
.  d%  16.        /—  BouJant,  16.  16.  19. 


Bouillons  St. Germain,  19. 
Bourse  (de  la),  16. 
Brasseries.  21. 
Brabant,  21. 
Bretagne  (de),  19. 

Oap\to\ft,  l^^.,  "iV. 
C&rdVix«\^  ^. 
Caacabde  C^^  \«.^,  V^- 
Oercle  ^^tv'),  V^.       .  ^ 


420 


RESTArEANTS  AND  CAFfiS. 


ClmuamTd.  19- 

Cirque  (dqK  ^ 

I,  if 


1ft, 


Coq-d-Or  (T^t,  flu),  21. 
C<)rAsj:ft'DcFui:!C,  17. 

Diirraj*,  16 

Dreher.  18,  !H. 
DutaflU,itig,    21 
Duflos,  16. 
DurflDd,   U.  aO. 
Duv&l  (BoEiillODdL  15^  16, 
17.  18.  i9. 

Edoflftrd,  16. 

Europa  fde  T),  18. 
EjCftolaBr  (Tikble  d'flotojj 

FiD&ooes  fdas),  Ifl. 
Flatnatide  (Tav.),  2J, 
Foyot,  m. 
Fr&ng&la  fDijier)*   10. 

—  (Oflf^>,  SI. 

—  iReit.  AeJ,  17. 

GUllfit,  10. 

aiaelerKapulitain,  30. 
Grand  CftftS,  10.  !30. 
Qmhar,  la.  21. 
Giiteiiherg  (Br  si  aft,),  *2L 

Hikvr«  (dul,  18, 
HeiirUQiittlre^  21, 


Litiof«u,  16. 

Lesion  d'Honnflitr  tdolo), 

19. 
L^on,  IT.  19. 
Leg n en,   \B, 
Lojidrt?3  [Tftv.  do,  16. 
Lu«*i  iiti  GFaod),  10. 
-  (le  i'otilj,  16. 

Mftdrid  tCaf<3  de),  15. 
JfaUieix,  21. 
Malre,  U, 
Mfrlffon  DtiriftiH,  14* 
Margnery^  17. 
Marlraux  (de),   U. 
Mailm's  Bart  15, 

ModsTDe,  IB. 
HolliLrd,  18.  21, 
Mrftitmaftre[Tav.),  10.31. 
Muret,  19 
Muller,  21. 
UuIlerGimai60t,ia.t7  2t. 


_        _        WM>*<^^    ID, 

T4nurent,    H* 


Priiuier.  14, 

17.  21. 

B.^gence  (da  l^^)^, 
Regent  (au),  18* 
RiDbe    14.  20. 
lltcheiiQU  CD^jeQflOTi 

20. 

Richelieu  tReai.k  1& 
Kiit,  U. 
Roelier  (du),  18. 
tlotid- Point  fduj,  : 
Kotonde  fd«  Ja),  r 
Roiiiemont,  16, 
Eoyale  (Tay,),  16, 1 

Sla.  CiDtitde,  19. 
Schaemir,  1&. 
Scoflsa.  IS, 
Soomel,  19*  21, 
ao6ds  (de).  2a  , 
Sir  I  vain,  16, 

Tavflfnlftt-  Airaift,  111 

Teroaintia  <du>,  Ift. 
Terrwae  (de  la).  'Xi, 
Teirrasse  JoaiTrj 

16. 
TDair-d''Atgfia$ 

Tourniet-  TBra 

TOQTtKl,  21. 

Unlvefselle.  (fi 


Kegro  (Tav*  du],  21. 
Ifdel'PeierB^  16, 

Op<lra{Tiiv.  den,  lfl.2L 
Oi-Mana  Cd'),  17, 

PaiU&rd,  14, 
Paix  {de  Ift),  14*  30, 
Palatt  (du),  19. 
Patithdoik  (Tav*  du).  21. 
Paris  {Caf6  do),  14.  16* 
Paris  (DJour  da),  16. 
P»rU(ReBt.deJ,  auP*) 

Royal*  IT 
Paris  (tUi^  Bfiixl,  ** 

Wrto  at.  Martin  (de  la),  Wider »u*tvii»  17. 
L^iflct,  le.  2L  lElmmer.  21, 


rlit^*JJfl^*t^*t?K 


INDEX  OF  STREEl-S 

PLANS  OF  PAEIS. 


cif  IN  br^ii  pliiD  anil  thii  llinlu  tif  tli^  ^in^ 


V.  I 

B.  Li- 


i.  (^ 


la  Fi*r  i]»  C^iTntarLS  iuii4  lii>  rlf«>r 


T:  PUu  {#1  U;v  DMitaUiy?  and  (muiWAj  lm«^ 


4 


l<    <     /^P^ik'*..! 


5^. 


Liit  of  fho  Principal  Btreett,  Sqnaraiy  Public 
BnildingBi  etc. 

with  Befarenoe  to  the  aecompanying  Plans. 

The  large  Plea  of  Peris,  on  the  soale  of  1 :20,0C0,  is  dlTided  into  three 
sections ,  of  which  the  uppermost  is  coloured  brown ,  the  central  rsd,  Mid 
the  lowest  ffrey.  Each  section  contains  36  numbered  squares.  In  the 
accompanying  index  the  capital  letters  B,  B,  G»  following  the  name  of  a 
street  or  building,  refer  to  the  different  sections,  while  the  numbers  oor- 
respond  with  those  on  the  squares  in  each  section.  When  the  name  re- 
quired is  also  found  on  one  of  the  special  plans ,  this  is  indicated  by  an 
italicised  Roman  numeral.  Thus,  Bue  de  rAbbaye  will  be  found  on  the 
red  section,  square  19;  and  also  on  the  fourth  special  map. 

Karnes  to  which  Andenne^  Petit.  Saint,  etc.,  are  prefixed,  are  to  be 
sought  for  under  these  prefixes.  It  should  also  be  observed  that  the  names 
of  streets  in  Paris  are  frequently  altered.  In  the  special  maps  some  of 
the  house-numbers  are  inserted  at  the  corners  of  the  longer  streets,  especi- 
ally in  those  cases  in  whieh  the  consecutive  odd  and  even  numbers  are 
locally  some  distance  apart.    See  also  footnote  at  p.  1. 

The  numbering  of  the  squares  is  so  arranged,  that  squares  in  different 
sections  bearing  the  same  number  adjoin  each  other.  Thus,  square  18  on 
the  brown  section  finds  its  continuation  towards  the  S.  in  square  18  ou 
the  red  section. 

The  squares  will  also  be  useful  for  calculating  distances,  each  side 
of  a  square  being  exactly  one  kilometre,  while  the  diagonals  if  drawn 
would  be  1400  metres  or  I'/s  kilom^re. 

The  word  Rue  is  always  omitted  in  the  following  index  for  the  sake 
of  brevity  •,  the  other  contractions  will  present  no  difficulty. 

B.  B.  O.  B.B.O. 


31 


23 


Abftttpirs  mUette}  .... 

—  tr^y^  gaucbe) ...... 

Abbeye  fde  V)    .  .   .   .   iV 

—  lux-Boii I¥ 

Abbtf-de-l'Ep^eC^erjiF,  Y 

—  GrtfgQire  ......   /7 

—  Groult  (de  l) 

Abbesses  (dee)    .*.... 

AbbevlUB  (d'j  , 

Abel-LebliLnc  [FUSHgeJ    .   . 

Abonkir  fdl /// 

Acacias  rdepj  .  .  ^  .  .  .  . 
Accouctemeut  fclin.  d')  ,  . 
AdolpherAdam  .....  F 
Afraii'esEtrfciiE.(oiin.dea>// 

Aflrfl    ,.,.., 

Agrippi'd'Anbign^  .... 
Aguesietu  (i')  ....  // 
Alain-Ch&rtiflr     ...... 

Albert 

Alboni    .,......./ 

Alboay IJI 

AlciERf  d^Ktrf // 

Alembcrt  (d*)  ....... 

Al^le  (d') 

Aleinndre  HE  fpont).  ,  II 
Alvxandre-CitbanQl    .... 

—  Dumas 

Alfred-de-Vi|ni>^ 

AJfrerfrf'J  .,....,     // 

AJiberi    ....,.,    ^  /// 

Bamdmxem.  PuriB.    14th  Kdlt. 


37 


13| 


19 


AU^D^s  CmUd  eUntque  d') 

30 

AUsre  (conrd^J.  .  .  .  lU 

2Q 

Attgre  frue  at  place  d')  .  . 

28 

Ailemagae  (d*)    ...... 

29 

Alleray  (me  A  placid  d').  . 

, 

10 

Alma  (AYftntia,  place,  &  pout 

dfl  D   .    . 

AJombert  . /// 

AlDuett«s  (des) 

30 

AJpea  {place  dw) 

n 

Alpbad  CpaasBffll    ... 

23 

AIphsrHd  (boiiL)  ,...., 

H 

Alplioase    . 

4 

4 

—  dfi-NeaviUe 

li 

Alsace  fd'l 

24 

Amandlei^  (dei) 

^ 

Amb&ssade  d^Allemagne    11 

17 

—  d^Angliiterre  ....     // 

16 

-  d'Autricha  ,  .  .   .  ,    // 

17 

—  de  Rnsfllo // 

17 

AmbaaaadeurA  (c^onc.  deal  11 

15 

Ambleu'Ctti.  de  V)     ,   ,  /// 

24 

Amboiflo  (i'J /// 

21 

Ambroise-Par^ 

lia 

^  Thomas  ^   ....'%,  » 

■^ 

Am^Ue  (rue  £  pusi^iEe)  IV 

14 

Amelot til^  V 

^ ' 

m 

X 

—  MOTlll>ltl.       , \  \    \^ 

,  Xmp'bT^  ^   ,.,*'-    * 

LRBS,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


B.  B.  O. 


B.B.O. 


.   IV 

.  .  /// 

u) : : 

.  .  / 
.  .  // 

.   .  V 

Jla)  V 
r.  des) 


voli)  V 

\    11 

\    11 

de)  V 
.  /// 
.  /// 


r/,  III 
tal)     . 

///,  V 
IV 


d) 


/// 
/// 

.'  V 

II 
IV 
IV 

II 


13 

24 

29 

• 

12 

18 

25 

26 

17 

14 

5 

22 

24 

23 

16 

15 

12 

26 

23 

23 

7 

31 

21 

12 

S« 

17 

24 

27 

5 

25 

15 

20 

17 

15 

28 

20 

8 

31 

29 

36 

13 

22 

17 

14 

21 

9 

30 

30 

33 

22 

8 

2i8 

o* 

12 

31 


18 


34 


B^nard 

B^n^dlctiBes  (eouv.  de)    IV 

Benoaville 

B^ranger /// 

Bercy  (de) F 

—  (bonl.  &  pont  de)     ... 

—  (entrepdts,  qnai,   port, 
&  porte  de)      

Berger    Ill 

Berg^e  (rue  et  cite).  .  /// 

Bergers  (des) 

B^pite IV 

BerUn  (de) 

Bemardlns  (des)  .  .  .  .  F 
Bernard-Paliuy  .  ...  IV 

Berne  (de) 

Berri  (de) / 

Berryer  . 

Berthe 

BertMer  (boulevard)    .   .  . 

BerthoUet 

Bertin-Poir^e /// 

Berton / 

Bertrand IV 

—  (ciW) 

Berz^lins 

Besfli^res  (boulevard)  .  .  . 
Be8tiaax(marchtf  anx).  .  . 
B^thune  (quai  de)     .  .  .  F 

Beadant 

Beoret   

Bezoat 

Biblioth^que  Mazarine    IV 

—  Nationale.  ...//,  /// 

BieStre  (porte  de) 

Bichat /// 

—  (hdpltal) 

Bidasaoa  (de  la) 

Bienfaisance  (de  la)  ...  . 

Biivre  (de) F 

Billancourt  (rae  &  porte  de) 
Billette*  (temple  des)  ///,  F 

BiUy  (qnai  de) / 

Biot 

Biragne  (de) F 

Biscomet F 

Bisson 

Bitche  (place  de)  .   .   .   .  / 

Bizet / 

Blainville F 

HJancbti  {ca\^) 

—  irae  dc  place) 

Bl&nc3-MaTite4iii:  (des).    .    . 

Blene * 

Bleus  (conr  des)     .   .   .  /// 

Blomet ly, 

B\onde\ ^^^ 

BlotU^TC^ 

Bobmol 

Boccador 


»ia 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B.  B.  G. 


B.B.O. 


Amsterdam  Cd'}  «...». 
Am^at    .-......*  7 

AiL&tol«  d«  la  Forge .... 

Anaiciiblfe  (ampblm^lirfl  d") 
AncUtme  -  Com^dla   (de    T) 

Ancre  (pM£&g«  do  r>  .  /// 

ABdriJ  (b^pitai) 

Aiidrd-Ch€dier Ill 

—  del-Sartfl 

Anglaia  (defl)  ,,...,  r 

^  (paflflaga  d(») 

Aneoiiiam«  (d*j  ....  /// 
Aijoti  (d )    ......     // 

—  Cqttii  d') ..,..,.  r 

AiuLftm  (d'} 

Anneletj  (dea)     ...... 

AanoDclaUon  (de  3")     ... 

—  (dgl.  de  1^) 

Antln  (d') .......    // 

—  (ftTfiHUQ   d*J  .     .     .    .    .      /J 

^(cmd')    ......    U 

AntolM-Dnboia  .    .     JV,  F 

AntolQcUe 

AoTera  (pUce  d")  .    .   .    .  . 

Apennina  (desi    ...... 

Aqnadap  (de  1*J  .    .    .    .   ,   . 

AT»go  Ibimlev.)  ...... 

—  (Qcc^ie)  ......*.. 

ArbaJ^te  (de  H  .....   , 

Arb  re-Sec  {de  T)    .   .   .  /// 
Arc    de   triampbe    da    Car- 

ffotuel  {PL  du  Can-.).    II 

—  de  rEloile  ,,.,,./ 
Are-de-triotapba  [da  T)  .  . 

ijude  (de  1 ) II 

ArfilievSeli^   Cqmil   et   puiit 

de  rj y 

ArehiTU  C^ea).  .   .   .   ,  /// 

Ai^Itcj  Nfttlonalu  .   ,  /// 
Areole  (poxjt  &  rn*  d^)    .  F 
AroQfill  (TQC  Qt  porle  d^}   . 
Ardenttfis  (dci)    ...... 

Aren^  di!  Lntice  (iq.  du]  F 
Af  Kflnioa  (d^)   .   .    .   .   ,    // 

AreflDteiiil  (d')    .  .  .  ,    // 
Arfacofl  (rue  4  place  de  1^) 

Atsont  [d'1 /// 

ArniAilld  [d'> 

Armand-CaTrel    .  »  «  ,  .  ^ 

Armorlque  (tte  D 

Arqaebti«ierA  Cdei)    .   .  /// 

Arraa  (d*) F 

Arrtw4&  fd*  V) 

ArBenal  (tJbJioth.  de  T)    V 
—  (ru&  £  place  de  T).   .  F 

-Arirfjtes  fdeaj   , 


i% 


te 


33 


29 


312 


n 


31 


30 


22 


21 


Arts  fpoiit  den)  ♦  .  -  .  /  F 
A Tt^etrU filers  (eq.  det]  /// 
Aiile-PupinCDttrt  (nte  4fc  pu- 

&a|£e  de  T]    , , 

Aflni^rea  Cptirte  d")  .... 
Asaas  (me  d')  ,  .  .  .  .  i  F 
AfidompUoii  (de  T}.    .... 

—  f^gllaa  de  r) .  ,  .   .    // 

Astotg  (d'J /; 

Alb^Eiefl  (d*) 

Atlas  (ds  D 

Aaber  .........    // 

AtibetTllliMi  (d'J 

—  (parte  d') 

Atibriot Hi 

Attbry-le-Boiicher  .  .  ,  /// 
Aude  (de  n.   ....... 

AiipiAte  Comte  .   .   .  /F,  F 

—  Lan^Dn     ........ 

-^  VaequeHfl   .....,/ 

Atunaire    .......  Hi 

Auinale  (d') 

A  iisterll  tK(qaai*pontd')F 
Aateull  (me,  garftf  porte  d") 

—  (place  et  pout  dl    .  ,  . 

Avre  (de  V) 

ArrOQ  (d'> 


BabylaneCdel /F 

BafiCdtt) 11,  ir 

Aaotm 

Bagueax  (do) IT 

Baenolet  {de} . 

^  (porta  £  roate  do)  .  .  . 
Ealllet    ......../// 

liameol /// 

Bailllf //,/// 

BslUou 

liailly /// 

Balago?. 

BaDians  (deA) . 

Balln 

BftHard ..,/// 

HalsML  rde> / 

Ha  aqua  (de  la)  ...  ,  HI 
B^Liiqiie  de  Frasee .  11^  III 
BaDquLar  (doj  ...,,.. 

Bar*    .' 

lUrbaa^gre  ........ 

H&rbfes  jO^oihK). 

Barbet-deJtiQy    ,    ,   .    .   /F 
Birhette     ...*,..  r// 
Barditiet    ......... 

Barbae  irae  A  patuJLpe)  ,  , 
T^uim  . 


11 


36 


23 


21 


19 


18 


18 
19 
21 


25 


17 


23 
16 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


B.  B.  o. 


B.B.O. 


16 


12 


12 


Bvtlt^emy lY 

BMfonr  (passage)  .  .  .  /// 

Basfroi 

B««-Meadon  (porte  da)    .   . 
Baetano     ^   .......  / 

BuflQ-dU'Rempart     .    .   // 
BMflOnLpiBTTQ  ......    7 

Bumie  (pL^  b.  etr.  de  la)  F 
BatJgnoD&B  OdhI.  kx.  des) 

—  (iqnaTfi  ^ej) 

Bauefies  (des) 

Bandelique 

Bandin 

B«ido7er(pl.)(r.deBiyoli)  V 

Baodricourt 

Banme  (de  la) // 

Banaset 

Bayard // 

Bayen 

Bmra  (rue  &  impaue  de)  F 

Beaubuuri; /// 

Beaoce  (dej /// 

BuiL^GreEielle  {placfl)  .   .   . 

SeuLhamats  (cltd) 

Beaajoli^lfl  C^fl)  .   .    //,  III 
BeAOJon  (raa  9i  h^pllal)     . 

BitanHeik  fp&aij 

Beanmai-cbalACbonl.)  ///,  F 

Beatine  (de) lY 

Beaanier 

Baanregard /// 

Beanrepaire Ill 

Bean^jour  (boulevard)  .   . 

Baautreillis F 

BaauTean  (place)    .  .  .    II 
Beauz-Arta  (des).  .  .  .  7F 

—  Creole  des) IV 

—  (palals  des) // 

Baecaria 

Beeouerel 

BeeinoYen / 

Bel-Air  (avenae  da)     .  .   . 

—  (station  da) 

Belfort  (de) 

Belgrand 

Bellart IV 

Bellay  (da) F 

BeUeehasse  (de)  .  .  II,  IV 

—  (place  de) // 

Ballefond 

Belles-Feailles  (des) .  .  .  / 
BellerUle  (de) 

—  (booley.  de) 

Bellevae  (de) 

Belliard 

BeUi^yre 

BelllJii I 

BeDoni 

BeUot 26 

BeUoj  (de) / 

'  (de) (24 


20 


81 


18 


30 


34 


B^nard   

B^n^dictiBes  (cout.  de)   IV 

Benoaville 

B^ranger /// 

Bercy  (de) V 

—  (boul.  A  pont  de)     ... 

—  (entrepots,  qaai,   port, 
&  porte  de)      

Berger    /// 

Berg^re  (rue  et  cite).  .  /// 

Bergers  (des) 

B^rite IV 

BerUn  (de) 

Bemardins  (des)  .  .  .  .  F 
Bemard-Palissy  .   .   .   .  /F 

Berne  (de) 

Berri  (de) / 

Berryer 

Berthe 

Berthier  (boulevard)    .   .  . 

Berthollet 

Bertin-Poir^e /// 

Berton I 

Bertrand IV 

—  (cit^ 

Ben^ias 

Bessi^res  (boulevard)  .  .  . 
Bestiaax(march^  aux).  .  . 
B^thune  (qua!  de)    .  .  .  F 

Beudant 

Beuret 

Besout 

Biblioth^que  Mazarine    IV 

—  Rationale .  .  .  .  II,  III 

BieStre  (porte  de) 

Bichat /// 

—  (hdpltal) 

Bidassoa  (de  la) 

Bienf*.isanefl  (de  la)  ...   . 

Bihvta  {de) F 

BillMConrt  (roe  &  porte  de) 
Billettei  itemple  des)  ///,  F 

Bniy^uiidej / 

Blot 

Birague  (de) F 

Biscomet F 

Bisson 

Bitche  (place  de)  .   .  .  .  / 

BiBet / 

Blalnville F 

Bl&ipche  (ehtil 

—  [Tan  ft  pUce} 

B lime s-a[ nil l^janx  (des).    .   . 

Bleue •  • 

Bleus  (cour  des)     .   .  »  m 

Blomet \y, 

Blonde\ ^^^ 

B\ott\iiTe 

IBobinoi 

BoccadoT 

I  BockaTt-4e-SwoTv   .   •    •  ^ 


12 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


.  o. 


B.R.O. 


Boiitie  t]«) i& 

Boteldiea  (plhce)    ...    11 

BoLlefcQ .   ,   r 

Boli  (dfi5) ......... 

BoLa'd«-I\o(iJoEiifi  C»t*  dn)  1 

—  (pkfl.'^Agtt  du)  ....  1/1 

Bolfl'lo-Vont 

Enlaaler« i 

Bni&ponnhde,    ....... 

BmflHf-d" Angina   ....     11 

Bolton  (paffsae^K    .    -    .    *    * 
Boliyar    ...     ...... 

Bon^pArtc  ,,.,...    fK 
Bondy  {de)    .....,/// 

BDn-MATcbd  {matga^.  du)  IF 
Bonne-KDnvc^le  |1)0dI.]  /// 
Bona^Enfftnta  fdiis)  .   //,/// 
BdrdA  .,,,...../// 

Btitr^EO  tdu)    ....... 

Borrom^e  ......... 

Bn^qnet  (aveniie)  ....  1 

BoHinet  .......... 

Bolz&riji     ......... 

BoaQhKFdc>n  ......  Ill 

Boncher Ill 

Bcadon  (av^nn^)  ..... 
Bondreau  .....,,  U 
BoufFB4-Paris.Cth^&lra  dea)// 
Bouniera  r4T«niiQ)  .... 
Boiigiinville  .....  iV 
BoalAJiiiTilUers  (de)  ,  ^  .  . 
Bonjfttt^eri  Cdea)    ,   .   .    .  F 

Boiilftrd . 

Boalnf  {ruB  k  pnnafteoJ  *  ■ 
B^nle  ........... 

—  EoDgfl  fde  la)  .  .  ,  /// 
Boiilets  {deft)    .    .    .    ,    .    .    . 

Hoaloi  (dti) /// 

Bcinqiiet-de-L{}D|;c1i.  (dii)  1 
Boarbon  tp'3»'go]h ..... 

—  (qnai)    .,...,..  F 

—  le^hatean  .  ....  /F 
Buurdun  (bciuleviLrd)  .  .  F 
HonrdaniiaiA  {&y,  da  Is) .  I 

^  (dea) , Ill 

Fonret   .......... 

Baare-]'Al>&^(i-.  ApiiM),  III 
Boar|Dgne  (de)  ,  .    ily  IV 

BctnrEOD 

Boarg-TlboQrg  (duj  .   .   .  F 

BaursanU .  .   , 

Bourse  (p&^lalA  d&  ia)   .  /// 

—  frge  h  plftcede  la)  //,  III 

—  de  Comioarpa.  ..  .  ,  III 
—  du  rravdii .....  J/1 

^OUMingftnJt    .,,.... 

Boufarel ,  y 

BouUhrit.    ...,*..  F  j 

Boyer .    ...,.,,,** 


BrAncion  U-  at  porU)  .    .    . 
BrantSme  .......  JII 

Briqoft  Idfl)  ......  Ill 

Brdfc /F 

Br^tihe-aux  Lonpe  Ir.  df.  U) 
Brida  (rafi  £  place)     .    .    . 

Br^gTiet .    .    .  r 

Hr^montlsr  ........ 

HKtagTie  (da) 1/1 

Hi-et4uil  t*T.  ft  place  de}  /  V 

BretouvUllfiM Ill 

Hrey 

Ht^iIq 

Qridftine 

BHgDole  (de)  .,..,./ 
Brill  at- Savarbi  ...... 

Brlnemlche Ill 

Brigaac  . r 

Broca  (rue  et  bapiUl) .   .   . 

Brocihant    . . 

Btom^i  (do)  .......  F 

BronjiaaiB 

—  Oifipital] 

BrdADt    .......... 

Brnne  (banleyard) ..... 

Brmiel    ,.,.,....   H 

Bmxellea  fde).   ...... 

Bueherie  (de  la)    .    .    .    -  F 

Baci  (de) IV 

BnAA  ..........  F 

Buflbn    .........  F 

—  ayt^H) 

Bngeand  (avenna)  .  .  .  .  / 
Bdijaon-SalDt-LDUis  (dii)    . 

Buot    .....    

Bumouf. 

Borq 

Bntte-aax-Cailled  Cda  In).  . 
Buttea-ChatunoDl  (p&redea) 
Buiftniral  {de) . 


//I 

in 


Uf 
II 


Cabaala  ....... 

Cadet  ........ 

OafafclU    ..... 

Cail . 

CalHaaiE  (impaaae).   . 

Oaillitf , 

Cikllloujc  (dea) .... 
Caire  fpl.  &  rua  du) 
CaiHae  de»  Ddp^ta  . 

CtJaie  (del 

Gajnhacdrea  ......     // 

CamboQ  ,.......// 

C&mbrai  {de)  ....... 

G%\ubfQnne  (r.  &  p].)    .    .    . 
CMfLVflt-^^wi\a .  ...... 

CvEaQTi-    .    ^    ....'*    - 

Gmd.^O'^'IT'™^^'^  ^^"^^  -   - 


u 


16 
31 


2e 
lie 

23 


12 

,26 

i  ^ 
23 


n 

21 
20 


'20 

u 

1^ 


23 
19 
22 


27 


22 
13 


ao 


21 


30 


27 


27 


24 

n 


ID 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


B.B. 


B.B.O. 


Canal  Sl'MftrjiD  {k  Tua  du) 

—  de  I'Onrca  .    ., 

Ganattu  tdu) JV 

Ckulfet  (dn)    .   ....    IV 

Cnrt*l    . 

CAprOn   ....>..,.. 

CaidlDftle.    ......    IV 

OiLrdlnJLl-Lemoine .   .   .   .   . 

Oardin«t    ......... 

Cbrtdei  (Jfia)  ......  F 

Carn&viJet  (munee).    .    ,    V 
CbrDot  (avenufi)     ..... 

".(lycde) 

droUne     .<.<..... 
Cftron     ...,,..,,   r 

Carpeaux  » *  . 

Carriefes  (dfeij    ...... 

-  n«B} 

GarTOtLnel  {place  A  pDnt  da} 

i/,  iv 

Caacadfift  (dcd) 

Omimir-Uolaiflgiie    .   .    i  F 
CaaJmir'Pdpier    ,   .   ,    .    /F 
CaJlnti  de  P&rli  ...... 

Casaette  ........    /F 

CasiellAoe // 

Caatei F 

Caitl^Uone  {A&}  ,   .       .    // 
OaUcomb&K  (entinfa  dei) .  « 

Ofltlnat /// 

Oaiiialncourt    ....... 

Oai:im*rt]n    ,.,,.«.    // 
CiLvi    ........... 

Cavendiili,    p    ......   . 

C^Lei.tLDp  Cquai  dee^)  .   .    .  F 
Cels     ........... 

Cbndrlflrtf  (dea)    ...... 

Ceaiier 

0«Tiialfl  (d«  la)  .....  F 

€^aQlfti  (det} / 

C^TfilLStlS  (dfi»l    ...... 

Cb&bau&ld // 

Chabfand  fcit^)   .  .  ,  .  II 

Ohftbrol  fde) 

ChaiUot  fd^s) / 

Chaise  {de  la) tV 

Chalet  fdoj  ........ 

Chalpin 

Chalipiy    . , 

CIiab|ii»  (d^)     .    T    .    .    .    .    . 
CbamailUTda  (das)    «   .   .   * 

GhiLmb^Ttin .    „ 

Chamb^rj  fde) 

CbambigeA / 

Chambre  d^s  dipoi^s  .     1/ 
Cbampa^ny  .   .   .   .    ^   .   /F 

—  4^  MABCEavT&a  d'lasy  ,  . 
—  de-HATs  ...»  / 
(daj    .    ...//,'/ 


29 


^ 


n 


14 


32 


30 


2B 


17 


Cbampde-aiiirfl  {<tat.  du)  / 
Cbamptirrut  (porta  da)    .  . 

Cbaiopioanfit 

Champolllua    ......  F 

Cbauips^  E 1  y  9  i?ii#  (av .  dea}/,  // 
ChanaJ4lllefl  [dul    ,   .  .  i  F 
Cbaoei  .......... 

Cbaage  [pont  auj  .  .  .   .  F 

Cha^aoioetsa V 

Chantieri  (dci)  .....  F 

CbauUUs'  (de).  .....  . 

Cliansty  .......... 

ChapfilU  (bonlevafd  de  La> 

—  (citd  A  plaea  de  la)   .  . 

—  (t.  &  Stat,  da  la}.   .   .  . 

—  EKplatoira // 

Chapon /// 

Chappa 

Chaptal 

—  {colleB«J  ..»*..-. 
CbarboDviera  C*o  i*l    ... 

Cbarcot 

Cbardin     ........  7 

Charentfi  Cqiifci  ^fl  la) ,  .  , 
Cbarenton    ........ 

—  (4e)  .   -    * l^ 

—  (poTte  daJ  ....... 

Charitd  (bdpltal  de  1&}  lY 
ChiLt-letti^^e  (Vjcj&^i     .    .  F 

—  [rue  et  |ia$3agcj    .   .    .  F 

Cbarlei  V Y 

Cbaflcfl-D&Hery * 

—  DivFjr 

—  Fourter , 

—  Nodiei 

Chariot /// 

Cbarolati  (da)     ...... 

Cbarotiiie  C^q) 

—  (boulaTard  dej.   .... 

Cbarma,   ........// 

Cbaf  tres  (de)  ....... 

Chaiaelotip'Laabat    .... 

Chateau  fda)    ......   . 

Chataaubriand  ..,../ 
Chitean-d'Eo-d  (du)    .   .  /// 

—  (th^atra  du)  ,  .  .  .  /// 
CbltQihii~deA-Keiiticre  (du)  . 

ChiLteandQia  (de) 

CbiteB-n-Landon  (dej    .   .   . 

Cb^telaia  , 

Chatelet  (pi.  £  tb^fltre  du)  F 
ChatiUoD  (avenue  de) .   .   . 

—  Iporte  de) . 

Chiuchat //,  IJI 

ChandrG^ti  ,  .,  .  ^  .  .  .  .  . 
ChiLut^uttLint  ^Aaa^  ,  ,  ..  , 
C\kai(im<aiit  (,^ot\M  .   .    ^   - 

i  —  le  \b.  ULuttXt ,    V   -    * 


LIST  OP  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B.  B.  Q. 


B.K.G. 


CbanreJdt     ........ 

Clmavin  (j)ftnsif«).   ,   .   .   . 

ChasielleA ,  . 

Chemln-Vart  Cdu),  .  .  .  T 
Cherchft-^idl  (dti).  .   ,  Jr 

cin^pubitii /; 

ChevAl-BJAQe  (pEtaaage  du)  F 
Cheraler^t  (r,  dfc  cbemto  da) 

Chevert IV 

ChQrreaBe  [de>  CB.  dn  M.-P,J 

—  a"T) 

Otine  (d*  U) 

Ohoiuai  (rD«  A  paasaee)  // 
OllaiBj  (BVflDUfi  ^  p{}fte  de) 

Ohomel /F 

Ghoron  .......... 

Obrigti&ni ,  .   . 

Ohrifltitie IV,  V 

Ghriatophg-Col^iDb  .  .  .  / 
Cim&TcxLL  ....  H.  ...  / 
Gimeti^re  da  MODt-FarnUPB 

—  da  Pdre-L^cli&iae  .    .    ,   . 

—  UDntmaTtre    ...... 

Ciaq-IUamaDt«^  (des)  .  .  . 
Cirqae  (du]  +,,**.  // 
Cirque  Pulace  ,    .    .    .    .    II 

—  (PHiTfer Ill 

—  FernpindQ     ...,.*. 

• —  KDaTQan,   , // 

Ciaeaaf  (de^  .....   /F 

cm  (iJe  d«  1&> V 

• —  (r.  4l  fjaai  d^  Ja)+    .    .     V 
CStflanj£^(dfc;    ....... 

dt-ialo  .......... 

CWr^  (de)     ........ 

ClilrKalt    ......... 

Clipeyruti , 

Claade-Benaiird 

—  T>Bca(ib     .   ,   .    K   .    ,    .    . 

—  LDrrain    ...   +   ..,» 

—  Poalllet 

—  TilUer  .   ,   .   , 

—  V^ellafaiix /// 

Olatiie]  .   .   .    K   «    K    .    .    .   . 

Gavel    ,  .  .   , 

Clof  (de  laj V 

Cl^meet IV 

—  Hnrot / 

OJer / 

Ol^fy  fda} /// 

Olicliy  (coTom.  &  portfi  de). 

—  frue  de) 

—  (av.  *  pl*ce  de)  .   .  .   . 

—  {boQl.  de).   ....... 

Cff^&Dcotirt  fde)  .   -   .  .  . 
C/jgiiflDcourt  Cporlfl  de)  ♦  * 

C/fjJflOD ,   .   * 

C7ocbfl-Pei-ce   ......  V 

C^ortre-Xotre-Dame   (flul  Y 
Cloitra-SL^iaerry  (dn)   .  //^ 


27 


Cloa  (da) 

GloUldft F 

CloTia V 

Cloya  (dei>   ...  

Cluny  (r.  &  moade^  da)  .  F 
Cochia y 

—  (b^apice).  ....... 

Coetlogon IV 

CoJbert  (mo  &  paaa.)  //,  /// 

Colipiy  (da) F 

CtiUadft  (da) // 

College  de  Franca    .  .  .  F 

ColJette 

Cnlcmobfl  (de  la)  .  .  .  .  F 
Colonel- Oaflot  (du)  .... 
Coloules  (mlnlat.  dfl5}.  /y 
Colonnu  (dea)    .    .     //,  /// 

—  du  Trfine    ....... 

CombflB  .........  J 

Comfete  (de  ]»)....   /F 

Conua^ndant'EiTi^re  (du)  . 
ComiQBadeDF (da) .  .  «  .  . 
Gotameroe  (Bouraa  de)    /// 

—  (ChAmbra  dfl)    ,   .    .  Ill 

—  (Ecole  de)  ......   . 

—  CMinJat,  du)    ....    iF 

—  (Tri banal  da}  .  ,  .  F 
Gommiaea  ..,...♦  /// 
Com  pan  a  (rae  &  Lmpa^afi)  . 
GomptOir  d'Escompta  ,  I /I 
CoiicierKerie  .  .  .  ,  ,  ,  F 
Cancorde  (pi.  k  punt  da  ]&)  // 

—  (me  de  la> ..,.._  . 
Condamlue  [de  La)  .  ,  .  . 
OoBd^  (de)  ....  iVj  V 
Coadorcet 

—  ayc^e)  *  -  - // 

Coaferencfl  (qaal  de  la)  /^  /i 
Canfland 

—  (poDt  de). 

GoDiond'Etat II 

—  da  Guerre  .....  IV 
Oonaervatolre  (du)  ,  .  Ill 
-^  da  MiuiqaA    ,    .   .  .  /// 

—  dea  Aria  ei  Udtlars  lit 
Cofifltantiae  (de).  .  II,  IV 
ConfftaatinQple  (da)  .  .  .  . 
Conti  (qaa.1)  .  .  .  .  IV^V 
Contrencarpfi  (place).  .  .  V 
OaiiTcotlon  [de  la)    ,  .  .  . 

Copernif! ,  .  «  / 

Oopreaax  *,.«...«, 
Ooq  Cbt.  da)    ,.,...  F 
OoqailJliTe  ....../// 

Oarbaaa .  .  .  ,  ^  .  .  *  /// 
Ocn^i<^«  ("QhiftBrga)  ....  Ill 

LCSi^TVmateL,    .   , 

\tjOT4fc\\'tT*B  ^iW\     .    .    -    .    . 

\  C&t^oWB  ,,....--' 
XcwrtftVWt ^^- 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


B.  B.  e. 


B.&.O. 


.  Ill 


Gortot 

Gorvisart 

OoMonnerie  (de  la) 

Ck)te]itln  (da) 

Ootte  (de) : 

Cottin  (passage) 

Ooache  

Oonesnon 

Gourat 

GonrbeToie 

CoiLTCclleA  {de}    ...... 

—  (laoaleTard  de) 

Coor  doa  Comptea.  .  .  If 
CoproTLUBJ  (r.  k  imp.  des) 
Cunrs-U'IUliLft .  .  .    /^ // 

Ciiurtr  Cde) // 

ConUllerie  (de  ]a]  ...  V 
€QatQree-St-0«rTaLa[des)  /// 

COTSflTOI   .*...,*,- 

Gi^biJlon  .....  /r,  F 
Credit  Foncier    ....    // 

—  Lyonnais // 

Gr^mienx V 

Grevaox 

Orillon F 

OriTQ^A  (de) 

Croc^  SpiDelll  . 

OfolBUDt  (da) /// 

Ctnix  -  dej  -  Petlts  -  Ghamps 

//,  /// 

Cpolx-KWert    . 

Cfolx-Ran|;i]  (carr,  de  la)  IV 

Cromiti^t  (de). 

Orooia  (p&jji&^ti) 

Ooolebarbe 

Oroiatler 

Onueol  (rue  A  citd  de)  .  /// 

Gagnot 

Cuf aa r 

Gure  (de  la) 

Ourial 

Gustine 

GaTier F 

Gygne  (du) /// 

Gygnea  (all^e  dee) .  .  .  .  / 


Sagnerre 

Dalayrac // 

Dames  (des) 

—  de  la  Trinity 

—  de  rAssomption  .... 

—  St-Michel F 

Damesme 

Damiette  (de) /// 

Damoy  (passage)    .  .  .  .  F 

Damrlmont 

Dancourt  (place  &  rae)  .   . 

Dangesu    

Dante  (dn) y 

Dantoa 

Dantzig  (de)    ...         *    '    * 


20 


20 


29 


86 


16 


U 


22 


17 


19  D 

20  4         I] 
.  19     \l 

*1  \\ 


Danube  (place  du)    .... 

Darboy 

Darcet 

Darey 

Dareau 

Daru 

Daubenton 

Danbigny 

Daumesnil  (av.  A  pi.) .  .   . 

—  (porte  A  lac) 

Daunou // 

Dauphine  (pi. ,  r.,  pass.)  /F,  V 

—  (porte) 

Dautancourt 

Daval F 

Davld-d' Angers 

David 

DaTioud 

Darout  (boulerard)  .... 

Davy 

IMbarcadire  (du) 

Debelleyme /// 

DebUly  (qual) / 

DebrousM / 

Decamps 

Dtfchargeurs  (des)  .  .  .  /// 

Decbdroy 

Decree 

Deguerry 

D^jazet  (thditre)   .../// 

Delambre 

Delbet 

Delessert  (boul.)   .   .   .  .  / 

Delouvain 

DelU  (du) 

Demours 

Denain  (boul.  de) 

Denfert-Bochereau    .  .  IV 

—  (place) 

Deooyen    .,-...... 

DaparclaiLX  ........ 

D^Pftrt  (du) 

DiipartcDQflnt  (da)  .  .  .  .   . 

D^ip&tolr  (da)  ....... 

Depots  et  Cons,  (c^lase)  // 
Dt^pnt^A  (cb^mbre  dea)     // 

Dea^ix *    .    .  / 

[j-.^'K  ni-ifi-yaliDara   .... 

Descartes F 

Descombes 

Desgenettes // 

Ddsir  (passage  du)    .  .  /// 

Desnouettes 

Desprei 

Desrenaudes 

Deux-Ecus  C^eft\ ,   ...  Ill 

Deux-Qia.T«&  V^«B^   .  .  >   > 

De\ix-1^ou\a  (A^^   .   •  .   • 

DM«T  ^i^«baa««.«k^  •   •    \* 

DVd.«TO\  Ctto\i\.  ^N.  ^v?s . 

Dldol •    • 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B.  B.  O. 


m.E. 


JII 


Blea     * 

D^oa  (del . 

Doflteur-Blaocbe.  (dn)  .   .   . 

Domat .  r 

Dumbi^^e  ......... 

.     I*Gme  Cdu) .  / 

DaminlfsaincA  i^e  U  ^toJjc 
Jlomr^my  (de)    »»»».. 

Uoi-d  Ccit^J 

Ilarlan   .   .   .   .  » 

DoBne     .......-.- 

D(ja»t  tda)    .  ,   - 

D  on  &nfl  (hot  A  ru  fl  da  ]  a)  /// 
l)Lialtle«  fpont  anx)  .  .  ,  F 
Duadaaavillfl  I  rue  et  puB.) 
Dr&gou  (me  el  eiiar  du)  /  f 

DrftVfit 

Droit  Creole  dej     .    ,    .   .  F 

Drtiaol JJ^  III 

Dal^aSl  (paj»at;e).  .  .  .  Ill 
DobaD  .,.,...,.. 
Dabots  (paMagaj    ..... 

DacaB^u 

Dat:ouedl(i     ........ 

Da^Q  (dfl  la) 

DiifrcDoy  *........ 

Da|;ominier  ,*,..... 

Dij|;ii*y-TTOBiB  .   ...    IV 

DogaBEcUD / 

DaheBme  ,*.*.***» 
Dulac  (pAas^^e)  **..*. 
l:>alAiire.  ***.*.... 
DalODg  .......... 

Dumai  (parage) 

Bum^rLl ^  ,   *  , 

Dfunont-d-DrviII^  .   ,   ,   ,  1 

DQDkerqae  (de) 

l>aaoti  ..,.,.»,.. 
Daperre  .,.,.»».*» 
Dnpettt-TboiiarB .  ,   .  ,  III 

Dupbot .    // 

DaprB ,17 

Duplelx  (place  et  rae]    .  1 

Dnpont  fcit^) 

Dupont-doj  Logea  .  .  .  ,  / 
iJapule  ..-....,/// 
Dnpuytren  .  .  ,  ,  ,  lY^V 
Dnqnesae  (aTcnufl)    ,  ,  /F 

Dnranee  fde  la) 

DariLpt] ,   ,   ,   , 

Dnr^Dtin   ,i    ...,,.    , 

Dorait  (de) ,    II 

Dttret* 1 

JJaria *...., 

Doroe.   ,,,,*,.,     lY 

Z>03SOQb3  .    .    .    ,    ,        *    III 

nuiQt  .  .    ,    \  \   \   \  \   \    !\ 

^avivi^r  .    /  /  I  I  '  /^  77 


32 


il^ 


Echaud^  (de  T)  ,    ,    ,    .    /F 

EdheUe  (de  rj   ....  /; 

Ediiquier  (do  T)  ,  ,  ,  7// 
Etila&ea-SaiDt^lSartia  (det)  . 
Ecyle  Centrale    ....  IJl 

—  Ooloniale /F 

—  d'Arcblteeture   ..... 

—  de  Droit .......  F 

—  de  M^decine F 

(rafi  ft*  place  da  V)  V 

—  (ie  Fbatoi&cle    .  .   .  JV 

—  deA  Beaux-Arta  .   *   *  /F 

—  d«sHaut{±j-Etadefl  comiu. 

—  dea  Mines    ,..../¥ 

—  dei  PonU-et-CbatiM*  IV 

—  drEtaMIajor  .    .   .    .IV 

—  MilUaire  ,,,...   /F 

—  Normals  ^upn^iicurfi  ,  F 
^  ™  d^AtttftuU  et  J.-B*  flay 

—  —  d^lDJUtntrice?  *    .    .    . 

—  Polytechniqne   .    .    .    .  F 

—  -(dfi  n F 

—  Pratiqu* /F 

Ecolea  (4eB3 F 

Ecods«  td') F 

Econffflfl  fdes) F 

Edgat-Quiti«i  ....... 

EdlmbotiTg  |;d']i , 

EdtQond'Yalfentlti   ,    .   .   ,   . 

Egalit^  [de  Tj 

EeJnljard F 

Eglide  (de  r;) 

Elyad^  (pal.  &  rue  de  V)    II 

—  (pasfliise  de  F) 

—  MontmafLTQ 

Elt4vit /// 

Hm^rlan / 

Emile-Allez 

EafatilB  AsBlBt^a  (boap.  des) 

—  Haladei}  (bGp,  desj  .  lY 

—  Koageri  (Eaarcb^  d.)  /// 

Knfer  (paasago  d'] 

Eaglilen  (buaplce  d'}    .   .   . 

—  fd-} II J 

iBtrepilt  (de  T)  ,  .  .  .  /// 
EntrQpreaeuri  (deaj  .... 
Enricr^eB  (rae^  clt4,  ^  pi4- 

0age  du)    .......,' 

Ep^e-de-Boia  (de  T)  ,   ,   ,   ,  I 
Eperoa  (d«  !')»    .    .    »    ,    ,  F 
Epinetten  (me  A  sqa,  dea). 
Erard  .».,,»....,. 

Bi-luiger 

Ermitage  (rae  &  Tilla  de  V) 
Ernestine  »..,..    +    +    . 

Ei^Tance  ide  l") 

^ft^uVroV    .......... 

^6t^i%n 

Kj^tt  ^^^^    .   .  -  .  ^ 

\  \^ait*t4l'^'^ ^* 


2T 


t9 
31 

r 

34 

.  .  ^ 
19 
10 
19 


14 


n 

14 

ID 


le 

y 

19 
19 

19 


72 

n 

22 
19 
29 


2(i 


24 


le 


31 
24 
27 
1 

30 

19 


IG 


12 


23 


23 
1 
33 


^^^-^ 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


B.  B.  e. 


B.B.O. 


Btu    .  ,  , 

Sti«Bm«*Dolot 

—  Hu««l /// 

BtoUe  (de  D  .,,..,  / 

—  (c«oad-poijit  i9e  T)  .  .  / 
Bl«n»  am    ,  .  .  .  .  Ui 

— ^ibift 

—  Lftbleba  ,.,,..., 

—  8ii« 

EqlAT i 

Knp&torU  ld'> 

BiiTop«  (pi.  d«i  r>.  .  .  .  . 
BTSiL|U«Cd«n 

BniliaMBS  (tiualefiirdj  .  . 
Bvpoiltlovi  Cd«  P)  .  .  .  / 
Efl«o  (>v«aii«  d'>.  ...  7 


F*b8H // 

Ftlmi-d'EgUii  line 

Fftcon.  .......... 

Fud^arbe  (av.  &  ru^j.  .  . 
Vilntiiderfe  (da  U)  .  .  _ 
FUl«ttipln  (puu«e)  .... 

FAfftdkT 

FAqboorg -da-Templfi  (dmji 

/// 

^  Moatmmrtra  (do)  . 

—  PotMroanibre  Cda) . 

—  St*Antoine  (dn)   . 
^  Bl-DeaU  C^u)  -  ■ 

—  St'Honot^   (du)  . 

—  St-Ja-cqUM  (dn)  ,  ,  I  . 
•^  St-M»rtin  (dii)  .  .  ,  .  . 
Pfttiaomiier  (dn)  .  .  .  .  F 
FftTtrt   ......    //,/// 

F^Tvritei  (d«t) 

Ftetmp  (do) 

F^dr^ttan  (d^  la)    .   ,   .  / 
FOUlia'Dafid    ...   .  .  * 

F£UBlt^  (d«  ]ft)  .....  . 

F^elon  (clW)  ....... 

—  Circle) F 

FAr-^-Houlin  (dn)  ..... 
FerdJBAfid-Bertboad  .    .  /// 
Format  ..... 
Fenslerp  (de«)     ...... 

Feron 2  7 

Ferrosnfliie  (d«  I*)  ^  ,  III 
Ferrap    .......... 

Fflnpart  Ct^a  a  impue«}  ,  . 
FAtu  (rue  A  ]i]«ce  dei)  .  . 
FulUhde  (de  la)  .  If,  III 
FfloUJuittti^  rdee)   .   .   .  F 

VtmtdtT 

WMfisa     .......  //y 

FMHiU  fde  Jai  .    .    ,    ,    y//j 
Kgmter  (duj    .   .  .   ,       ^   ^ 


,  /// 

,  /// 

.  V 

in 

II 


IT 


22 


27 


20 


.  in 


11 


23 


FiUu^n-CftlT^re  (boo},  dr 
TUB  dfla>.   ......  /// 

—  Dieu  (des)  .  ....  Ill 

—  HtrTbomiB  (dei]  //,  /// 
FlnmnceH  (mis.  dei) .  .  I J 
Flaadre  (de) 

—  (pout  A  Tuutfi  de>  .  .  . 
FlikndrtB  (bonlcTkrd)  .  .  . 
FletirJ  (dtd  deflj    .    ,    .   .   . 

—  (qu^i  mi).   .....   K 

Fknro*  (da)     .....    /F 

FJoreacifl  (da)  ,    ,    ,   .    ... 

Fqlii  (du) V 

Follfi-H^rifiouTl  (dfl  U)  IJl 
Folle-Hcffnault  (de  Ih)  .  .  . 
Follea-Drani.  (th.  dea).  i// 

—  BergArv lU 

—  MikTlsny  ......     // 

E^'ODdkry.    .    .    .    .    .  H    4    .    . 

Fontaine <■ 

FoDtkine-au-Bui  .    n    .    .  /// 

—  imi-CJfircH  (da  \\i    .    .    , 

—  da-Bnt  (de  In)  .  ,  .  .  . 
--  HnlATd  (da  !*)..... 
FaaUines  (dap)  .  .  .  ,111 
PuntnF^bia  (da)  .  .  .  .  ,  . 
Fdntenof  (plac^  de)  .... 
Faraiit     .......... 

Ftaras  (dil) /// 

Forges  (de*) //; 

Fortin  (kTenne)  , 

Fortuny 

Fo$«^»-3i-Bern&rii  (de»)  .  V 

—  St-Ja6qaes  (dt!»J  ,  .  .  F 
Fcmarre  (dn)    ......  F 

Four  (dn) 

Fonrcroy    ......... 

FoQFcy  (de) .......  F 

FoarnaanE  (r,  &  eb.  denj  /  V 
FDyktiar    ......... 

Fr*nc^ia  (llii^atre}  ..... 

Fran^ftisa  .......  Ill 

FraiictiP  Ginntt!  Ida)  .  .  Ill 

Fraptc&OF . 

Frmn^ols-Bonvio.  ..... 

—  Gerftrd  ......*.. 

—  Mlrott  - F 

Fr&n^njA  l*r  (miilson  ie]  II 

—  One  i  placa).  .  .  A  // 
Francfl-BonreeoiB(dQ3)  lil^V 
Franklin    ....,.../ 

Fr^mlaourt . 

Fr&res  (iDililtttdftfl).  .  IV 
Fresnel  ........./ 

FTftyoinel  . / 

Friiot 

FrocliDt 
Frt>idevti.\jTi  _ 

FTOiMa^ri I 

Ptomaut 


16 


21 


19 


13 


20 


24 
24 


10 


LIST  OP  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B.  X.  Q. 


B.B.G. 


Fromflalel     * V 

19 

Geoftroy-Mjirie    ....  /// 

21 

Fromentin 

:;iu 

-  at-HiUiro V 

^ 

FoUom 

. 

26 

George  Saod 

t 

22 

PBritenbers    (r.    t   ph)  IV 

^JU 

G^Fando    . 

ao 

Fartado-HeinCp   .....    ^ 

14 

G^rird    .       ........ 

2^ 

Qerb«rt         

33 

Oftbgn  (diL) *   . 

Garblar  .......... 

29 

Gibriel  Cavftime)     .    .   .    II 

lb 

Gwbniop IV 

16 

—   Lam^ .    .    , 

H:r! 

GAreorie  fda>  . 

11 

G&bri^«  .            ....*» 

20 
18 

Gunnaln-Pilon 

GiuTrea  (qiui  de)  .    .   ,    .  F 

20 

^ 

OilllaT* 

G«fUoiL  .,,,,...     // 

21 

le 

Glnnnx                ^ 

7 

<Hit4  (ruA  £  tmpuA&  d«  la) 
~  (thifatre  de  la)  .    .    .  /// 

Girardon . 

20 

, 

'li 

Qlronde  tquai  d*  la)    .   .  . 

28 

Oalapd« r 

■n 

GiMo-OoBur r 

lU 

Qilette  Cmoutin  de  la}     .   . 

uu 

GlaeiflfB  (ds  la) 

, 

30 

QmHUe .  .  / 

^ 

tu 

aialsl^re  (de  laj 

, : 

^ 

G 

OaUi^fa  (r.  ^  mn^de  d«l    , 
Oalvanl 

ly 

Gluck         .......    II 

1H' 

s 

Gobellnfl  [aT.,  me,  £  ipun. 

GambetU  (nvsDTie}   .... 
—  {place)  

m; 

de«)        ^ 

23 

SB 

Godefroy-CaTaignac  .... 

^ 

39 

Gambey HI 

2^ 

Godot-de-BUuroy  .  .  .  .// 

18 

l« 

17 

Gtetbe / 

12 

Q*fancifejfe  ......    IV 

la 

Qombouat     .   .  .   .  .   ,  -H 

^ 

IB 

GarJe-Meuhle / 

it 

QonfEaud  favfinue)    ...» 

11 

OifJiftfl  (defl) 

aa 

Gotttte-d^Or  (do  I*)    .   .    ,  . 

2d 

Gmra  de  J'Eat 

^4 

GouTion-St'(>rr  (bcmleTard) 

8 

VH 

Goilln  {ma  dk  pUfle)  .    IV 
Gradeiue  ........  F 

Grammont  (do).   .  .  ,  ,  JI 

LU 

d      ft             '    ' 

3D 

31 

23 

—  da  YlDcemnea    ..... 

aa 

-  d^Orldana 

'26 

Graud-Cflt-f  (pwaage  da)  /// 

34 

fDOQVelk).    .    .    .      // 

lY 

Grand-Prleur^  (dnj   .   ,111 

a? 

—  dti  Luxauboiire  ►  .      V 

1» 

Gr&Dd  e-Anii  d  e  (av  en  ae  d  a  1  a) 

9 

"  du  Iffora 

^ 

Grande-CliautDieto  (de  la> . 

^  ■ 

16 

—  MoatparauH    .   .   h   .   . 

. 

la 

G  rauda-Truttndc  rie  ( d  1 .  J  /// 

, 

23 

—  St-Laaare    ....... 

18 

Grandea-Carrierej  fcb,  doa) 

16 

—  OmjoJ.  dfl  la) 

ae 

Graads-AoEiutUfl  (roe  ii  qnai 

—  (parte  de  la) .    .   .    ... 

;-i4^ 

dea> .   ,  r 

'^li 

—  fqual  de  Uj 

—  Cde  la) 

29 

G  rand  s-Cb  amps  (dea)   .  .  . 

^ 

31 

4 

2b 

—  D&giH V 

^ 

33 

Garefi  (dea  Da  at-} 

Si 

Grani^e-aiu-BellBe  .  .  .  /// 

2^ 

G^baldl  Cbcml.J    ..... 

lU 

G range -Bitelifere  (do  la)  /// 

21 

Guaendl   . 

, 

att 

Gravelle  t^venne  An]    .    .    . 

m 

GMton-de-St-Paul  .  .  ,  ,  / 

1^ 

GrftTiBiarB  (deft),    .../// 

34 

G&tboli  (passage) 

, 

IfT 

GrelTalbe    .......     // 

18 

Gatined  (d«) 

att 

Gregoire-de-TonrB  ,    .    .    /F 

if» 

Gantbey. 

Gavflral / 

tH 

GrenfllJe  (de)    .   ...  I,  IV 

14 

u 

—  (boul.  de)     ...,.,/ 

IQ 

G*y-Luflsa4: ,   .  P 

IM 

—■  (gare  et  qnai  dej,   .    .    . 

7 

7 

O&n  (rae  &  iicupasfle  du)     . 

26 

—  (poat  et  6tat.  de)  .  .  . 

i 

Oatan 

e 

31 

GrcQdta y// 

Grenler^St-La^aTe  .    .    ,  III 

24 

O^u^ral-Appert    ...... 

-  Blaiae 

itt) 

Grenier-sar-rEan  ,  h   .  .  F 

23 

—  Braaet  (du) 

32 

Qr^tiT // 

, 

21 

-  Poy  fda) . 

IB 

Oreuie  ,......../ 

^ 

9 

—  LaflAlle  idu) 

30 

Gribe^mval JY 

17 

&ettU}ly.  . , 

*)A 

Grgi     ...     

1 

—  (pOTte  st  *Uliua  daj  .  . 

^ 

21 

GTQtte  Cde  ]*)......   . 

& 

Guoffro/^DJddat 

iU\ 

\ 

L^lTi^nlo^Ue  Cda  la)  .... 

'i& 

—   I-anxFAirli,                              /i;  V      iOa^      I  ft^kiVcL 

1 

—  LBiiiiler    ......      Y 

r 

r^ 

^ 

\Qll<ili4^TA IV  ,\ 

\ 

W 

k 

SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


11 


B. 

B. 

G. 

B.B.O. 

Gn^at  (cll^) -  -  1 

9 
U 

ai 
24 
tT 

5 
29 

23 

n 

% 
19 

21; 

24 
3& 
IB 

22 

n 

8 
26 

24 
18 

1 
19 

2& 

Hosp  LUll^rAJ-3ai  i»  t  -G  c  rv  al  n 

(dei)    ...,./// 

Hfltel-Colber*  (de  D  .  .   .  F 

Hotel-Bien   . F 

Hotel  de  vme    .   ,  .  .  .  F 
H5tel-4e-VmeCr.,qaai,ApJ. 

de  D ,  .  , F 

Hoadart  Cpk^agti) 

i) 

33 
32 

23 
23 

39 
30 

19 

12 
B 

31 
23 
5 
20 

ao 

16 

Giiem  (mln.  il«  la)  // 
Gaenuit «  ^ 

Gnffibird  ,.,..♦...  1 

aallhfim    . 

OaillAame-Ttan    .... 
OnLUeialtet  (dfli)   .   .  . 

JII 
iF 

Gulmflt  (muB^)  ^    .   * 

lloudoii ,.,,,,.... 

auLiktdfi    .   , 

GuatifcTa'Courbet     >   .   ^ 

Etacbfitle  (de  U)     .  .   .  .  K 
Humboldt     ,.,,...« 

an 

Gay-L&bTujfli]  »   ,   ,   ,   - 

.   V 

U 
2S 

Hnyifens    ..,,.«.,< 

i<^ 

lena  (ar.  £  place  d'>  .   .  / 

—  (pontd  ) / 

tcozDacal^e-Coiic.  (coll.de  V} 
ImmeubleB  ludmtrlelj  tdea) 
Impfimfiiia  Katiouale  .  Ill 

, 

Gu/ot *   ,   * 

Gny-F&tin  ..,..,-  ^ 

GymnAie  (th4itre  da)  , 
H^ifrp  (da^> 

III 

B 

UAiDKat  {dn.)    ,    ,    .    ,    ^    -    ^ 

33 

Uftll^ 

.  II 

Innoeenta  (dev)    ....    II 
lnatittit(piil.^platiAdeni^ 

—  AgrCQOmiqn^    ,    ,    ,    .    . 

—  CathDliqde lY 

— "  Paatenr    ,    *    -    -    >    -    *    *   ' 

H^lle-bax^Vlnn   »   ,   *  « 

.  ¥ 

la 

22 
20 
20 

9 
21 

19 

^) 

Hall4ss^€entTiJ#B  ,   ,  . 
il«Uea  {deal ,,,,,, 

in 
\  I 

ia 

UuDboare  (dtt)   .   .   » 
Bikm«»ia  (da)  ,  .  .  ,  . 
HpmfsUn 

iDfltruotion  Publique  (miala- 

tbrij  de  r), 17 

iDti^rieuT  lmln.de  T)   .    // 
Inralide^  (bool,  dea)   .    ./F 

-  (hatel  des) IV 

—  (ejpL  A  punt  de*)  It,  I V 

lrUiid»is  (deil F 

leilette^  (deft) 

lily  (de  n    *...*,    // 

23 
IB 

17 
15 
13 
14 
14 

Hsrliij  fdfi} 

.  II 

,  F 

HHTTey  ....... 

.   .7 

19 

Hfcudrlettei  {d«)  ,../// 
Hftisfsmann  CbocdcTard)  // 
Hmt«feiill1e F 

IB 
34 

IB 
36 
S£ 

17 

33 

IS 
24 
22 

36 

21 

33 
9 
12 

8 

H«nt«vinB  {d'}    .  .  . 

JII 

6 

H&atpool  Cd'}  ,  .  .  . 

Italia  (aTCDiia   &   purte   d'j 
^(booleraidJIplaced')  .  . 
Italliiat  Cbott).  des)  //,  /// 
iTrj    , *   .   ,   . 

21 

24 

HftTrc  CdaJ    ,  .  .   .  , 
H»io 

*    // 

mi 

Hubert  (place),  ,  .  . 

—  (av.  A  porte  d^)  .   .   .   . 

Jabacb  (passage)     <  .  .  Ill 

Jacob  . /F 

Jacqtiemoat . 

Jacqacm-Occnr /F 

J&UAon  de  B^Uy  (lyc^e)  #  . 
JKrdln  d^Acclimatatloa   .   . 

—  de  Paris // 

—  dea  PJantei   .  *  *  ,  .  F 
Jardloet  (dn)  .  .  .  ,17^  V 
Jardiuleri  (des)  .«..!, 
Jardlna-Saiat'Para  (dea)  .  F 
JarsDte  (de).  ......  F 

■Tudiii  *           .■■■... 

n 

6 
3 

23 
22 
20 
25 

15 
19 

ij 

26 
4 
4 

7 

10 

77 

Holder  [dvi) 

H^J^pa 

,    // 

Henri' dm vrean  .   .   , 

—  Hitnin  (17,)  .   .   . 

—  Lepage  [cltd) .  ,  . 

—  Pape ,.,,,,, 

Hemiri  IV  (boul.  et  t^aalj  V 
—  (lyc^ft) ,  ,  ♦ 

7 
21 

'22 

Herntel  ,...,,,--   ^ 

19 

3'^ 

H^old    ....... 

Herr 

III 

HericheU   ...... 

.  IT 
.    ,  F 

IS 

19 
16 

2U 

Hlrondella  Cde  T)  .   « 

Jav'ol  (QQal  de)  .■■■«. 

4 

Hocbe  (avemiQ)  ,   .  ^ 

Javel  (de) ......... 

7 

HoiuJr^-ChflYfclier  ,   •  *    /F 
Hupit&Hbuu].  £  p],  del')  F 
HGiiital-SainiLuaiA   (det  V) 
Hortgge  (qaai  dft  TJ .  .  .  F 
Hifiphes  (dot).   ....,, 

Jean-Baptlile'Duiiias    .  .   . 

—  Baft 17 

—  BftaMire  <if.4  Vi».^A  -V 

—  (Lft-l&twTf th\a  .  .   *  -   -  '^ 
1  —  l&UhVe&fe  ..,..-* 

8 

I 

12 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B.  B.  G. 


B.  R.  G. 


J^ftii-Guttla  ........ 

—  Fr^^^OiEi-L^piCL&  w   *   .   . 

—  Oonjgn    ,   .  ,  .  .    I,  H 

—  Jnaq,-Boiiaseau.   ,   ,   /// 

—  L*ntter // 

—  Leclitlie  *-*.*-.. 

—  Ha(^i^.   .,,,,,..♦ 

—  Nicot // 

—  Robert. 

—  TiflOP    .......  in 

Jeanne  ...,,..... 
JtinaDD-d'Ara  (r.  &  pi.)  .  , 
Jemmnpes  (qnU  de),   .  /// 

Janner    .  .  .  .  ,  

Jfumaint  (m^i  £  pibcel .  .  . 
Jen-de-tiualA  fpaia.  An)  /// 

—  dti-Faamti  ,  .  .  ,  .  // 
jQimQjAvQng]ui(iii&t.des]/F 
Jennee  D^ttsnaB  (prlflon  deft) 
Jeilnears  (deg)  ,  .  .  *  /// 
JuiuvUle  (de)  ^  .  .  .  ^  .  ^ 
JoDqut^ra  {da  la)  ♦  *  .  .  . 
Jonquoy  »»,»*.*-. 
Joseph-Dijon  .,.,-,* 
Jonbflrt  »...,♦.*  J/ 
JoQ^iOT  ,,.,,»...- 

—  (p*Mage), /// 

Jonp  (da) Jll 

Joardfca  (bouleTard)     ,  *  . 

JoUTfiDfit    .    .    .    ,    ^    .    ^    .    . 

Jouy  (de) .7 

Jn(fB    ...,,,*.*.. 
JaJfia  (dfta)    .......  F 

Jnlllet  (cDlunne  de)  .... 

dnleA-C^PAr F 

—  Saadti&a  fbout,)    .   „  ,  . 
J^Ua   ^    .   .   .   .   ^   .   *   .   .   . 

Jalitin-Lacroix    ,».,.. 
JuUeite-Lambert    ^   ■   .    ■    . 
Jurn  (dn)  ,    ^    ......    . 

JnHaienne  [de  la)   .   .    .  /// 
Jufl#len  (r.   £  pi.  de)    .    .  F 
JojUce  [palAli  de>  .    .   .   .  V 

SntUm  (nun.  de  la)  .   <  .  . 

Keller  ^  ..,,.«*.  . 
RfiUermnnn  0>oaleTard}'.   . 

Kftppler. ,  .  / 

Kliimr  (*F.).  ..,.,./ 
Knas    . t    ,    .    . 


lr»bic ,   .    .    .    . 
L^boU-  Ro  u  i  j  Joii 


16 


23 


^ 


29 


16 


tl 


37 


21 


30 


36 


II 


U 


23 


24 


24 


LaCQrdBlre    ,.,...-. 

LaArotx ,    .    . 

Lmcndti  *****,.*.  F 
LbeDDeo  (bApiUl)  ,  .  .  IV 
Lafayette  ,,,....     1/ 

—  (place)  .•,.,..-. 
Lafeni^re  {pafiBige)  .   ,    .    . 

L*ffltte II,  III 

LafODUine  (de)  ,  .  .  ,  ^  . 
Lughoamt  (da^)  >  .  p  .  ,  ■  ^ 
Lifny  (de)  /,,...*, 
Liiigraiige   ,..,,.».   F 

Lahire * 

Luk&nal     ,.,.,,... 

Lnl&nde *    .    T 

Lallier ,  .  - 

LfcrnarGk    h, *    - 

Lunartiufl      .......    ^    - 

—  (^qnare)    .,.,,,    ^   * 

Latnbl&rdia  * 

La  Motte-Piquet  (M.  de)  / 
Lancettb  (de  la) .....   ■ 

La^cry  (de) HI 

Land;!  a  a  fpaaaaga)    .   .   ,   i 
LAn^aetloiJ  (de)  .....    p 

Lanneaii  (de)  ......  K 

Lannefr  (boaliTard)  .  ,  ,   . 

Lannols  „ ■ 

Lantiflr  , * 

La  Parous  ......./ 

Laplace F 

Lappa  (de) ,  * 

LaTd  (an)  ......  ,  /// 

Lariboial^re  (bSpltal)  ,  .  . 
LaRocliefoaeaiild  (hoiplce) 

—  (de) 

Laromle^lire  ......  F 

Laa  Casea  (de)    .  .  .  *    /F 

Lal^raJfi 

Latomr-lfaiibonTf  (botil&T.) 

II,  ir 

Latran  (de)  .,..,,,  F 
La  Trdmoillti  (dm)     .   .   .  / 
Lander  .......... 

Lanpil^rfl  (avBoa^)    .... 

Lanretit-Plebat   ...../ 

L^Qfieiton .  / 

Laa^nn  « 

l^TADdteres  (de^)  .  .  .  /// 
LaToiflter  .,,....  // 
Laxarlitat  (de»)  .  .  .  .  /F 
Leblane.  ......... 

Lebonls 

Lebouteux    ........ 

\jqbT^n  ...;*..«.. 

Ii4«^\tlfti^    ^     .     n,     .     .     .     n     .,     <     « 

lJ6tftlnT^lft  ,   .  .   4.  .  .   .  l^ 

l]&\\^eftMlTC^A 

,21  \  ViftMkm  *   ■  '   '^  ■  \ :   * 


V 


ID 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


13 


B.  B.  a. 


B.  R.  a. 


Lefort    .   .   .   ,   , 

19 
U 

i9 

17 
19 

h 

8 

21 
12 

21 
22 

11 

21 

1 

7 
11 
ID 

n 

16 
34 

Loula-ThuilUer  .....  F 
Loardse  on  Broca  (hdp.  dc) 
Loarmel 

29 

7 
21 

30 
13 

21 
24 

20 
16 
19 
19 
3& 
25 

19 

t 

L^tiD  d'Hoanflur  (pal)  // 
L.G«ir .  ,      F 

Loavois  .....    .11,111 

LoaTTft(paKtqaBt,  Araeda) 

LoweadaJ  (ar.  de).  .  .  /F 

Lubeck  (do) / 

Lulll Jl 

Luma  fde  la)    .  .  ,  ,  .    /J 
LTm^ville  (de).    ...... 

Lutfiee  (de)  .......  F 

Luxe^nboiiFf  (du)  .   .   .    .    . 

^  (phlaiA  &  jardin  du>  1  F 
—  (pftre  dtl).    . 

Lai!iKiga»u 

LamuTOii ,  .  ,  . 

LeAeral«r    .,.,.,.. 

17 

LevKmlt 

/// 

Lb  H6tie 

.  / 

19 

lAon 

23 

ai 
ao 

—  Oidel 

/// 

Lj&UDad  IdftB.)  .,.,... 

Lr^nhTd-de -Vinci  .    .    . 

Lyon  {da} , 

L^once^Begiiatid    .  .  , 

—   (gtra  de).    .    .    

2-R 

L«p*e»  («iUD   ,  ,  .  .  . 

Mabillon    ,.....,    iF 
Mae-MAb(»ii  ,..,.... 
M&cduDAld    (boaleTard)  .   . 

SffldBme. .IV 

U&deleinH  (bouL,  ^gl.,  mar- 
ch^, A  pL  do  1»>  ,   .    .   .    . 

tl 
31 

le 
16 

t*  F«l«ttflr  ..,.//, 
L«pl« 

III 

LeJfifrittler 

Xi«0ua    ,.....,,.- 

90 

25 
32 

10 

17 
12 
!a> 

7 
26 

16 

19 

29 
9 

L«cnpp  (de) 

.F 

Slademulaellfi 

10 

IjMii«iir 

9 

Madnnfi  (de  ]a) 

Madrid  (de) . 

—  (porta  de)  ......    . 

M&guiua  a^ti^raox   .... 

MB.gdebcmrg  (do).   .   ,   .   .   . 

aingeUnu .    .    / 

Mageula  (boalovftrd  do)  /// 

Mail  {du> Ill 

Maillot  (boalaTard)   .   .   ,   . 

—  Ipurte) .    .    ....... 

35 
15 
3 

e 

9 
21 

B 
12 

ar7 

21 

2B 

aJD 
21 
37 
23 
19 

le 

14 
18 

34 
SO 

6 

lieteUlflT    ......... 

I^Btort. 

19 
7 

14 

38 
33 

XtfiTallali-rerrel ...... 

Bfl 

J^rda  fpRMigft)  ...... 

LnBTert 

L^Tti  (rcfl  &  pl&ca  d«} 

LhomoBd 

LUnooiLTt 

liliart^  (de  la)    .... 

."  F 

.  / 
// 
.  F 

Lllu  (d«i} 

T;mfl  (de> // 

JAncobx 

IdiiKenfl  (de  lit) .   .  .   , 

JAutxA 

Lfaoii 

Maio'd'Or  (eotir  de  lb]    .   . 
Maine  (av^entie  da)    .   .  /  F 

—  (place  A  me  da) ,   .   .   . 
MairLe  du  ler  anoadifls.  /// 

^  du  n*3        -.,,/// 

—  du  in*         -    -    .   .  /// 

—  du  IVo         -     -     .   .   .  F 
_-  du  Vn           -     -     ...  F 

-  du  Vio         -     '     .   .    i  F 

—  du  Vlln       --..,. 

-'  du  viir«    -  -   .  .   li 

-  du  LKn         -    -     .   .  Ill 
--  du  Xo           '    '     .   ,  111 

—  du  Xlo         -     -     .... 

—  du  XII^3         .      -      .... 

-  du  Xina      '     -     .    .    ,    , 

—  du  XIV«      -     -     .... 

—  du  XVb       -     -     .    ♦    .    . 

—  du  XVIa  arrondlJi'i.     .   . 

—  du  XVBe    -     -     .   ,  ,    . 

—  du  X\TI1»  -     -         ... 

l(t 

le 

Lions  <des)   ...... 

Llibonne  (de) .   .  .  .   , 

,  F 

Ifi 

14 
29 

lis 

19 
29 
27 

MkkH 

/F 
.  F 
/F 

Lobaa  (place) 

Loblnean 

Lcwfllbacb  (de)    .    .   .   ^ 

LoIt«  (qufti  d«  la)^    ,    . 
LDAbHrda  (des) .   .  .   . 
Londres  (de)    ..... 

}// 

31 

Loo^bjiQip  (de).  ,  ,  . 

I^ofi  Ida) 

Xrord-Byrou  <..... 
Lorrftine  (de)  ..... 

.  / 
111 
.  / 

S3 
17 
10 

Lauifl-Hl&iai;     ....... 

^  BraiJJfl 

\ 

^  /?a  I'M 

—  le-GrAnd     ,    .    .    ,    . 

—  PMIIppe  .    .    _ 

ri 

^1 
IB 
19 
23 

—  d^  XIX"* V^\  Ji 

—  du  x:t«       -    -     ....  \  -^ 

M&i«tre  (,46> ^  ^^^ 

14 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B.  B.  a. 


B.R.G. 


Httttre- Albert  ......  F 

H&Iakuff 

—  (ftTeoue  dft) / 

—  jpckrte  dftl    ,    t    ,    .    .    .    . 
aial^Qaid  iqM&l}    .    .    .    IV 

MaUr .    / 

dlalebranche T 

—  (plAce  ....*...- 

Mftllier V 

Malmalsoiu  (doa)    ..... 

JlBltfl  (de) i// 

lialt«-Brim 

Hudu Ill 

tfaaln     ...<...,.« 

MjHUUt _    . 

KaDiiel  .*........ 

M^natentiaa  (d^  la).   .   .  / 
]f«raf€b€T3  (dea),  ..... 

Uikrali  (rue  if  imp.  des)  /// 
Unrb&Ku    ......... 

Marbcuf  (^renae  A  nie>    / 
Mvc-St^^aiD.    .,,..., 
M&rc&dei   ......... 

M&Tce&n  (kt^huq)  ,    ,    .    .    / 
HftrcIid-aiix-R^aUau:^    .   .    . 

—  dftfl  Blanco  Mftnteaax  /// 

—  de-Mnntraqge  (pi.  da)   . 

—  Nftaf  (qnai  d^]      .... 

—  8»viit-Hf>nor^  [du)   .    .  fJ 
9iaT€  (de  la)     ....... 

Mfcrengo  {de)  .   .   .    II,  III 

^largneritte ,    * 

Nar|r^Bttea  fdfifl)     .    .   ^   .   . 
Harle  tpcnt)     ......  F 

M&rie-et-lrHnia0  *    .    ,    .  /// 
Marifl-Stuart    .....  /// 

MaTiQ-Tli^r^^  (hosii.)  .   .   . 


3IarignmD  (de> 
>I*rigD^  {^renne)  .   .    .     // 
M&rine  (mim.   &e  lal    .    .  // 
jlarinieri  (t^atii;r  dea)    .    . 

H&rWaojt  , // 

MarQti  (rue  &  place  dn)  .  . 
Haronitea  [<1baJ  ,..<.. 
MajTrfinaierp  (de^)  .    .    .    .    . 

M^raeilla  (dflj /// 

Mu-polller.    ...,.,     If 

MBrt*l /// 

H&rtienac  (rue  £  cit^)  IV 
Marti n-Bemard  ,,,«,, 
Mftrtyrs  {de«)  ..«.«.  . 
SffiSii^n&  {buuleviiTd).    ,    .   . 

JUAgsep&p /V 

Jf/i^fl/;jOD    ......    .    .  7 

M&MAoa    .    ,    «    » 

Mathis    .    .   .    ; 
^thurin- tinnier  ]    '.    ",  '.   ' 
«AWitirfa«  (ao3)   .    ,    .    ,     //  \lft1 
•-•M^oii  (rue  ^  tveime)  li 


M  Hubert  (pi  frce^ V 

Manbeage  fdflj 

Manblanc  ..,..,... 
MjLii«oiiaftl1    ......  /// 

Maufe  (dn)    ......  HI 

MauHcfl  (padiagg} 

MaiLTaii9^GiiT9.una  (den] .   .  V 
H&ret.    .,..,...    /F 

MajTWJ 

Ma^aeran  [Tnfl  A  imp.)  /// 

MatBHiie ,    IV 

Maiaa  fplKB) F 

Maiet F 

Meaux  (dej 

l^l^chftin 

M.iddah{de) 

M^decvae  (^cole  do)    .   .    V 

Slddlda{dfl) IV,V 

M«p»erle  Cqii«de  !■}  II  i^  V 

M^bol U 

MalDadier.  ........ 

Meiuonler 

Mdn^ea  (ad q are  dea]    .IV 
Mtfoura  ......    //,/// 

Dldntlmgnlant  (boul.  de)    . 

—  (porte  de)    ......   . 

—  (de) ,    .    . 

MercCEttr    ,,....,.. 

Mdrim^e 

Meflia 

MeaUy    ........  J// 

Meauil    ........./ 

Mea^agftrtea  (dea)  ....  * 

Ifanlne  (ATenne  de).   .   .   . 

M«t*  (da) 

MeanleTS  (m^lle  de»)  .   .   . 
Meyerbeer     ......     II 

H^zi^rea  (de) IV 

Micbal 

Micliel-Ange 

—  BUot - 

—  Htdblgo 

—  le-Comta  ....../// 

Hicliodi^re  (da  la).  .   ,  .// 
Midi  ou  Eieord  (bSpital  dn) 
Hi^oii  ......   ^    ,.  F 

Hlgnottea  (dea)   ...... 

MilaD  (de) 

MllHaJre  (^cf)]e)  .   .   .  .  7F 

MlHon . 

Mliiei*  (i?cole  de) .   .   .   .  /F 

Minlmea  (dea) T 

Mintstefe    de    rAgricuitQre 

L—  dft  la  GneTre  .   .   //,  tV 

\—  ift  \fc  ^TiiX\«^  ....     II 

U^V—  1^  \%  T^4t\^ft^   .  .  .   u 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


15 


B. 

R. 

a. 

B.R. 

0. 

]||iilrt&T(i  da  Oommer«e  et 

Mout-ParoMsc  (clmet,)!  .  . 

15 

4«  nndnitrte    ,   .   ,    ,  /F 

U 

—  fe4M> IV 

16 

^  det  Fin»neea.   ,   .    .    Jl 

au 

1  Moatpensiur.   .  *  .   .  ,     /J 

ai 

—  d««T»Y»iix  Pabliei  IT 

. 

17 

Montrenll  (forte  de)    ... 

34- 

Miomt 

IC 

-  (d*}  .  . ' 

ai 

]llT4li«ftii  &ue  el  pODtJ  .  . 

i 

Mi^Dtroofe    ........' 

ni 

' —  {pottfi  dd) 

]R 

Jftflwl  (de)  .,,,.... 

2$t 

M  nntsoiLTlB  C*t.  A  p»rc)  .   . 
Mont'Tliftbor  [dn)  ...    II 

'^1 

Mirmn^all  (de]    ,  .   .  .    // 

15 

15 

16 

115 

Moiitjou  (dfl)  .   .   .   .   .  //i 

'ii 

Moiftdof // 

IB 

Slorind 

?rf 

Holnu  (d«»]     ....... 

lfoll4n  CfoiiUlQ«  A  rae)  // 

16 

31 

1  Monrd 

14 

Horemu ,   .  F 

m 

-  07t&9i 

G 

Moriire 

ts 

MoMtor 

I 

Moret 

,30 
22 

Iftnofi&iuc  (de]    ...... 

15 

Motgac  lift) 

^  (pve  de] 

16 

Mormaim  idfls} 

11 

MoBuy  , . 

18 

Morlimd  ;boa]«TftTd)     ,   .  F 

^ 

36 

^  (pUce)  on  pL  CUclir  .  , 

17 

Bloni*y  .........  F 

^ 

HondtfloaT Ill 

23 

MoTtier  (bonltTdrd} .... 

36 

36 

JfondoTi. // 

la 

MoBcau  (de)j.   . 

18 

Monis  (6cple). 

14 

Moacne  [lio  li) 

20 

-  Cr.  ft  pi.)  .......  r 

'22 

MoafFetunJ V  \ 

22 

-  (tqinre)   , K 

33 

Moallii'derBeiiiri-e  fdaj,   .   . 

13 

Moigol 

2fl 

—  de-la-Pointe  (dn) .   .  .  . 

24 

M©iui»iii(deU).  .  .  .  Ill 

30 

—  di3ft-PT^  (du) ...... 

23 

HonsaUii  (biiUl  defl)/r,  F 

20 

Monliuet  fd^) 

24 

lI<>ii«leiLr IV 

13 

Moiaim  {d*B) /; 

21 

Momri&iLr-lft-Prliice    .  /F,  F 

i« 

aroiilin-V*jrt{rne  fi  itflis.  du> 

t7 

MOBtfiiJir  .  * J^ 

21 

M^Tiafly  (de).    .    .    .    ///,  7 

h 

Hoo  Ugn  B-3mipt«-@sn«!Ti^Ta 

JMciaton-DTiYerDet 

17 

(d«  1*) F 

aa 

Moiu*iR  (de) 

33 

Honteictie.   ......    // 

15 

Moaurt 

5 

-  f»if.) ^   ^  /' 

IS 

Mufltto  (cbit,  et  porte  de  Uj 

5 

-djc!^*) /F 

^ 

itt 

Molboufie  CdB)     .   .   .   .  /// 

21 

HoAUliTet // 

15 

17 

Mollfir 

20 

1 

HGBtbFiati 

Marat  fbnalcTird)     .... 

I 

VgnteftliQ  ......... 

IS 
19 

Murillo 

15 

20 

Jf  om^Cenifl  (dn) ...... 

MDn-dB-lfl-Roqaettfl  (dei}  , 

HODlcbAtllQ   ........ 

14 

Muaaet  (dej  . 

1 

Mont^e-Fl^l^  ...../// 

23 

MyiTli* 

33 

Jfoni'Dorij  {dn} 

17 

Hoatebello  (qmi  de)  .   .  F 

22 

34 

Kaneilei  {de«).   .....   . 

30 

Hontempoiri-fl  (pdrt«  de)   . 

l!*ascvaty  ......... 

21 

Hantfiiiottfl  (dfl) 

12 

If  antes  fde} 

28 

Montewiiiieii    ..,//.  //J 

30 

ilaplfli  (de]  ........ 

m 

MDBtaHiij  (de)  .....  / 

11 

Kftpol^n  I.  (tomb.  deK    JV 

li 

19 

NAtioa  (dali) 

?,S 

Hont^mllet 

31 

—  tplttfe  dfi  Im) .....   . 

31 

MomteoJfiftr /// 

21| 

W&tiunU  (boiacvaTd)    .   .   . 

la 

KontholoD   [me   A   (Mlnftrej 
Montlboenffl  [dfli)  ,  7,  .  . 

ai 

36 
32 

ai 

—  Ipoat} 

Tq 

Umtionile  ......... 

% 

Mo&«cjal» 

mtiTiltf(pl»ce  ft  dgHne  deU) 
y&Tnria  (de)    ......   ^   ; 

2t 

'3*1 

Montmartre Ill 

—  (bonlcTmrdJ  ,   .  .   .   //J 

21 

NayaiTB  fde}    ....    *   »  F  | 

23 

-  tfiim.)  *  .  .  * 

(7 

Hi 

N*Tier 

16 

Hontxaore^erf&v.A  boul.  de) 

1 

16 

Keeker .V 

■^ 

L 

-^'?*^  ^  ., Ill    . 

*^ 

16 

-   l.llQBV^«£^.     .....    lY  \'\SV 

MoBiflrgnet}     .....  /// 

7t 

IR 

NemnwiB  t4e\  .   .    .    .    ,    ^^  \  'W> 

Moni-FMnssse  fdnj    .   .  /f^ 

lel^enU  titS    ;    .    .    .    ,  l^.''  \'>??^ 

~  (bftal.  iJnJ  .   ,   ,    , 

^ 

. 

16 

1  StXilCPtt^M^    ■    ^    '    ^^^' 

.V 

\ 

^V 

16  LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 

B.  B.  G. 


B.B.e. 


I 


Kenilly  (*v.  dti) , 

2 

Op^ra  CpauAEfl  de  V).  .  II 

^ 

21 

—  Cporte  de) 

ii 

—  fth^&tra  &  pL  da  V)    // 

18 

ITeufG'das-Boaletii 

»() 

—  Com! qua  [th.  da  TJ      /I 

21 

—  Fopjncnarl 

HI 

Oran  td'J 

?3 

Kdya(de  la)     , 

12 

Oratoira(r.ft^yLda  Tj//,/// 

20 

KaTfirfl{deJ IT,  V 

'2U 

Ordener     ......,*. 

10 

SewtOn .J 

12 

Orf^vrea  (qua!  dat]  .   .    .  V 

i) 

IS^j  (boaleTard) 

■ii 

OrflJa ,    .    . 

aa 

Nicfl  (de) 

3? 

OriUi>ti  (me  £imp&isadeV} 
Orldaa^  (ar.  d'}  .   .   ,    .    .    . 

hSO 

—  larFrontl^ro  (de)  .   .   ,   . 

11 

17 

Kiwlfti 

. 

a2 

^  (garea  d')    .    .    .    ,  //,  F 

2ft 

KicijlapF  H  (aYftniK-O  .   .     II 

15 

—  (porta  d') , 

m 

:Ni(u;ila»-OhiiqTiet.    ..... 

jU 

-  rqiiai  d^) F 

22 

—  Fl*mel /// 

'^ 

Orma  [da  T)     ....... 

11 

Sicolet 

ao 

Orma&iiic  (deji) 

31 

Nipnln     .......... 

5 

Ormaason  (d") .    .....  F 

26 

Kiel 

LI 

Qmano  (bcmlavardj  ,    .    »    , 

n 

Nil  (do) /// 

24 

Orpay  ^ttai  d*)   .    ,    .  I,  It 
Orflfll  t^'] 

11 

Uiti^t I 

iia 

30 

35 

Tfoiay  (tie) 

Orteiui  (dea)  ....... 

KoUet 

L7 

Oudinot tV 

13 

l^onnftimi-d'HyereB  (des)    V 
Nfjrd  (gare  dn)   »»»,.. 

2^ 

Oadry     ........    ^    . 

22 

24 

Onast  (me  ft  Impasse  da  T] 

ia 

Knrmmdie  (dfi)  .   ...  Ill 

23 

Oiuqe  (da  T) 

28 

KQTYina 

at) 

—  (canal  da  T) 

39 

TTotre-D^mflCdgliiie).  .  ,  7 

22 

Oura  (anjc)  [Et.-MaKel)  /// 

'M 

—  <pont) F 

—  dft  -  Bcinne  -  NfloTelle 

'23 

P*ix  (da  U) 

IH 

{^glisfl  A  riiel   .    ,    .    .  /// 

24 

Piijdl 

36 

—  dfl-ClignancCftirt  (dgl,)     . 

la 

P&lmia  (boulovard  dxij.   .  F 

2U 

—  lie  ConflolJitir>n  .    .    .    ,  / 

IS 

PaUli-Bottrbon  (place  dul  // 

11 

—  de-la-Croix  (.Agl  )  .    .    .    . 

30 

—  des  A.Tta  Libdraax  .   .  I 

11 

—  dc-la-Gare  (^|£l.)   .   .   ,    . 

'j)t> 

—  dae  BeaiiX'Arta.   ,   .   .  I 

U 

—  de-Loratte  (rue  et  dfJlsB) 

31 

—  da*  Macbinpa     .  .   .   .   I 

12 

—  dQ-KEkZAT43th    .    .     .    .   Ill 

24 

Palaift-ftoyAl // 

:ji 

—  df^-BfiCftn Trance     .    .  /// 

24 

^  (place  dn) // 

!X) 

—  dea-Bl^Dcp-MantqaiijE/// 

2,^ 

PaJatine lY 

19 

—  deB-Gliamp»(T.(3tcfEl.)/r 

le 

m 

Palaatlne  (da) 

S3 

A  ^gliFta) //J 

PalHstffl  (de)    .   ....  Ill 

21 

21 

Palllisti  (da) 

iju 

KonTean  Clrquo    .   *   .    .  JI 

ifl 

Palmare     ......... 

^ 

Fonve^utcfi  (th.  des)   .   .   . 

21 

Pan  Oram  as  (t  .  A  p  sbs.  AtisjIII 

21 

ygnirelle-CftMforaiti  .... 

12 

PaDtjy&njt  (dea)  ...... 

Pantheon  ........  V 

] 

30 
IS 

Obsrknmpf /// 

30 

—  {place  duj  ......  F 

11 

Oblln  *  ,  *       *  .  .  .   .  /// 

-iU 

ift 

Faatitl 

M 

m 

Obsorrfttoirc    ....... 

—  (porta  de)    ....... 

—  (tiT^nqn  ^  carreffisr  de  T) 

19 

Pana-Blanc  {Ab}  .   .   .   .   .  V 

^ 

OctftVti-Feulllcl 

5 

Fape-Garpentler .    .    .   .    /F 

u 

Od^ou  CpIaiLe,  rae  &  tb.  d^D 

Papillon     . 

ii 

/F,  F 

If 

ParadlB  (dej /// 

'M 

OdBPIB  (d^) IV 

i(> 

ParchftiBijierle  fde  la) .   .  V 

le 

Odtot  Coltd) i 

13 

Parc-Royal  (du)  .   .    .   .  /// 

as 

OflMmomt  (d')  ...*.,. 

14 

Partft  (da) 

,81 

m 

Oit»  rqn&i  da  n 

!K4 

PiiTine  (de) 

UJ 

Oiae&nx  (auc.  mals.  dei)  i  F 

IB 

P&rmenttar  (aTenno)    ,  /// 

BU 

Oiier 

H 

Partaple  td«s) 

Rfl 

Oliwe  fVi                  ....   * 

,^ 

Par  VIA '  Notra  -  Dame  tp^«<^a 
i     ^^\ V 

23 

OJivior  de-Sflrre* M 

\ 

Omer-faJon  .                   ...  V  A'M     \?»W*\    * ^  *  . 

•B 

Op^r«  (ar,  da  r)  ,  ...   II 

I 

M 

11^ 

VEaa-lR'^arTi^Vft V?tM^  .  .  .X 

^ 

SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


17 


B.  B.  G. 


B.R.O. 


fUqttlflr 

Pfteiy  (ptint  ei  qaHi  dti)  ,.  I 

—  (rue  &  plant:  dqj  ,   ,   ,  / 

—  Utfttion  da)  .,,,.. 
F^ti^iir  (toujevard)  .    ,    IV 

—  (InstUnlJ ,   .   . 

Pait&qieJIe HI 

PatiT  t^^J 

Paai-Bnadry    ...,../ 

—  Bert .......... 

—  LeloDg  +   * /// 

—  LouU-Cc^ari^r  .  .  .  IV 
F&aqqet     *.,.,,»./ 

PiTde V 

Piyea  fimpasao)-  ,  .  .  .  . 
PafeBne,   ,,,....  /// 

Pddlat 

Pelife  fputtlle)  .....  /// 

P^imh  Cdu}    ...    //t  /// 
Pelleport   .......** 

PeotbiiTre  (de]  ....// 

PdplBliTe  Cde  U)    .  .  .    // 

PercoTitl , 

PercbiLmpB  (r^e  A  place  dea) 
Perche  (du)  .    ...../// 

Percier  (aTenn^j  *  ,  .  7/ 
Perdotmet.  ,,,,.,.. 
PArelra  (boolevard  £  place) 
P^ra-Lacbatsfl    ...... 

P«rgo]Aja 

P<lrlBiJon    .......    IV 

Perle  (de  la)    ....  .  /// 

PflrweUfl IJI 

Perneltf 

Parraalt /// 

Pflr?da /// 

Ferret  (pa^s)  .,♦,.., 

PerroD&t IV 

PiJlel 

Pi^tifit 

Petit   .   .  , 

PetJtrMuM  {Aa}  .  .  ,  .  ,  F 
PetitrPont V 

—  (rne  du)  ..,,.,.  F 
Petitfi-Pi^re  (de  lft>.  ,  .  . 
Petite  Rue  de  Parfa.  .  .  . 
PetiteB-Ecnrles  [rue  ^  pas- 

aa^e  desj /// 

Petitfl-CBrroatiJE  [doij  .  /// 
--  Cbamp(j(dflBh   -    JJ^IIJ 

—  Hotels  {des} 

—  Peres  (r,  JtpLdfis)  //,  /// 
Ptftrarqne  ......../ 

Putrelle  . 

PeuiJliers  [Avenue  dea)    .    . 

—  (rue  &  poterne  dea)    .   . 
Pbalsbourg  (dej  ...... 

PhArmacie  (iScole  de)  .   IF 

.  J^bilippe-Anguate  f  aTonue) . 

^  ^hilippe-dfi-airard    ,  ,  ,  , 

^iat 


IB 


24 


24 


24 


23 


10 


14 


Hcardle  (de) Ill 

Hcdni   .  ,  .  , 

Picot  .  

Pkptis  (de) 

—  (l^oalevard  de) 

—  [ciuUf  orat.f  i'  Attiulii.  du) 
Herre-au-Lard    ,   ...  HI 

—  Cbarron  . I 

—  Gndf  1b 

—  Larousae 

—  Je-Orand 

—  LeiDux ly 

—  LeecDt  * Ill 

—  Lev^fl /// 

—  Nj'B 

—  PlcaTd ,   , 

—  S&FraEia *  F 

Pigftlle  (r^  &  pl)   .   ,    .    .    . 
Pi  tie  I  (rue  &  place)   .... 

Piii^S  (hup.  *  rne  de  la)    F 
PLt<*TKCOart  ........ 

Plaifie  (de  i*)  .   .   .    .   ,    ,   . 

—  (ptfterae  de  la).   .    ,    .   . 
PlaiaaQCtJ  (porta  de).  .  .  , 
Plaochat    .,..,.... 

flaache  (de  la)  .   .  .   .   IV 

Platitea  (doa>   ....... 

Plat-d'KtAiu  (du>  .   .  .  Ill 

PJalre  (do) 11/ 

Plimiet . 

Point- An -Jour  (hotil.  dn).   . 

—  (rne  du)  ........ 

Poiate-d  Ivry  (da  1&)    .   .    . 
Poifti^onnlere    ,    .   .   .   ,   /// 

—  (bonl.)  ....,.,/// 
PoInsonnierA  (dea) ..... 

Poiaay  (de) V 

Poiteviaa  (dep)   *   ....  F 

PfliticTfl  (de)    ....... 

Poitou  (de)  .   .   .   .  ^   ,  Ifl 

Peliveaa  (de)  ....... 

Pulonce&a ......... 

Polftecliniqije  (tieole)  .   .  V 
Pdmereti  (de)  ....... 

Foinmard  (de) 

Potape  (de  la) / 

foDeeaii(riie  &  pa$a.  du)/// 

Ponct^lel 

Pondidu-rs^  (de)  ...... 

Puaiatowak^  (boalefard)    , 

Poat  (du> .    , 

Poiit-anx-€bonx  (ddj    .  /// 
Puut-de-Lodi  (da)  .   .    .    .  F 

Pnntbica  (de).    .../,// 

Puot-Lfiuts-PhiUppe .    .      F 
Ptmt-lffluf  (du)    ,  ,  .  .Ill 
Poatoiae  (de)  ......  f 

Pnata-et-Cliauf.  {€e,  dee)  IT 
Popinc^nurt  ..,,*.... 

Puvt&Ua  Vb^%iLU^\   .    .    .    IL 
PUTU-¥oltt Ill 


33 


33 


27 


la 


26 
20 
\b 
33 
20 
22 

n 


33 


Babdkkkb.  PariH.    14th  Edit. 


18 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B.  B.  a. 


B.K.O. 


3& 


L2 


33 


33 


Porte  St-MATtm  (tb,  de  Iji)  /// 
ForMlfthQD  tdti)  ,  ,  ,  // 
Port'Koy&l  0>f>aU  de)  ,  .  - 
Fu(uux  tpli^cflj  ...,,,, 
Podtes  (direction  dei]   .   lY 

—  (admlaijtr.  d<J&)    *   .  //I 

Pot"de-Fer  (da) Y 

PutQHn  (dn) *   *   * 

pQterie  (de  la)  .  .  .  .  /// 
PDuch«t.   ....*.*,* 

—  (portfl)  .    » 

Ponlat    **.*.***.. 

PdiUlelier Y 

PoaHBin  , ,   . 

Pradier  .»...***.. 
PrairiM  (de^)  .*..*., 
Pf^  aax-Glerca  (du)  .    *    /F 

—  afc-Gorvais  ObJ 

(rue  d«) .   ..**** 

CpoTte  daj 

Pf^claan  (deij  .  ...  ill 
Prefecture  de  la  Seine    // 

™  de  Police Y 

PfeiboQfg  (de) / 

Pr^senlitlon  [de  la)  ...   . 

pFCPl^i  (do>*  ......  J 

Presflolr  (dn)  .****,. 
P  r5  trea  -  S  t  -  G  erm  nJ  n-  T  A  ni. 

(das) /// 

Prfitre*-St-S(SvetiD  (de&J  .  Y 
Pri^Topt  (passage)   .  .  .  ^  . 

Prtf^dt -    .   ,  F 

PrtSvoyince  (de  !&)...> 

Prlealle^ 

PriDce9(pBBaaEe  dee)  JI^  III 
PriiLcaa»e  -*..«.,  if 
Procepelon  (de  U) ,    ,    ,    ,    , 

Prony  ,,,**» 

ProndhOD  ^   »   ^   

ProuvaireJ  (dei]  ,  .  ,  J/V 
Provence  (de) ,,,//,  /// 
ProvldencB  (d«s  la}  ,  «  .  , 
Pi-ud^kon  (fiyenne),  ,  .  ,  . 
Puits-dti  rErtnittt  (dn)  ,  ,  F 

Pqtcaux ^   . 

Pjr  (du  la) 

Pyrauidai  (dea) ,  .  .  .  II 
Pjrtdii^efl(r.  ft  p]aeed«») .  . 

CiuAtrerbges,   ,  h.  .  ,  p  *   F 

Qui^tre-FiU  (d^a)    .    .    .  /// 

Qabtre-^optcmbre  (da)  .  // 

QoalTfi'VenU  (desj     .  .  lY 

QQlaaalt   ^   ,,,,...  . 

Quioi^mpoii  ,  ,   ,   .  .  Ill 

Quintiaie  (de  U)   ,   .   .   ,   , 

QaiiLEG-VingU  fhospico  deu) 

Rachei  fiivenue) \m     , 

Racine iF,  V  1  .\19\ 


IB 


RaciDe  djc^e),    .,*,., 

18 

R»d*lviU  _.,,//,  /// 

9A 

Raffet :  ,  , 

' 

I 

23 

aapiiDot  (paawed)    .... 

Eambo timet  (de)   ..... 

'S 

Sambiateaa  (de).  .../// 

23 

lUmeau // 

21 

Ranoey    .......... 

so 

Eampon    .......  /// 

27 

HampoDneau   .»,..». 

30 

Raaelagb  fav.  &  rtia  da)    , 

5 

Racial  {paaftage}  ,,,... 

^ 

Rapeft  (qoai  de  la)  ,   .   .   F 

US 

lUpbael  (avenue)  ,   ,  ,   .   . 

B 

R*PP  (avtinuej    ,»..,/ 

11 

RaspaU  (boal.)     .   .   ,   ,  /F 

16 

18 

Ratiod    . ,  F 

19 

Etttvigfian 

30 

Raynaud  (cit^) 

, 

U 

Raynauard / 

e 

B,^aninaF Ill 

24 

Rebftval. ,  . 

30 
27 

R^tollata  (den)    .   .   .   .  Ill 

Rficalettea  (rnfllle  dea)    .    . 

:^ 

Regard  (da) IT 

10 

R4gH.   . IV 

^ 

10 

Regaaall ^ 

30 
21 

RelU«  (avenne) 

Eeine  (Coura  \i}    .   .   /^  // 

ifi 

RekiB^Blanchc  fde  ia) .    .   . 

23 

—  de-Hongrie   (paaftftge  de 

In) ,   .   .  Ill 

21 

Rembrnudt  ,,,..... 

m 

R^mnAat  (do) 

4 

RenaiBflnnce  (de  la)  .    .    .   / 

12 

~  (theatre  de  la)  .   .    .  IJI 

, 

24 

Renard  (da) /// 

2J1 

Rfindei-vons  (dn)  .   ,   .    .   . 

S4 

Renn£qmn    .,,►.... 

11 

EeoneB  (de) /F 

IB 

Ifi 

R([pal)liqae  (av,  de  la)  Itl 

3€ 

2? 

-  (place  de  la) ,   .  .  .  /// 

^ 

37 

—  (tJniatTe  d^  Ja)  .  .   .  Ill 

^ 

37 

R^aervoira  fdes)     .   .   .  .  / 

8 

Rdtifo  ip\U  dn)      ...    // 

18 

Retrtit  (da)     . 

a*^ 

Rfluilly  (boalevard  de)    .  , 

31 

—  (porte  de)  ......   . 

3& 

—  fde) 

28 

31 

—  (Station  dc) 

31 

R^nnioD  (paeaage  de  la]  /// 

23 

—  (roe  4  plsH:e  dc  la)     .    , 

^ 

—  (vU3*  dfl  la) 

4 

Heynie  (de  laj     ,  ...  Ill 

3!» 

Rhin  Cda)  ........    . 

3B 

B.V\ifti* 

1 
8& 

, 

l\l.Vo\tVU 

\B\tUfct^A*TiiAT    .....  A\ 

V^V>^i3ti3i*^M4>^  .  .  ^ni,7\.>a^ 

V  U\t\i»-ti-^  »^V*^  '^V«^>^'^^>>^'*\  \ 

Xmt^ft^'^t^^'^'^^-  *  '  ^v.i 

iV 

\ 

\*X^ 

SQUABES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc.  19 

B.  B.  G.  B.  B.  O 


Bichcliea  (aqtiftre)  .  .  .  li 
KlchfiDftnfla  ,,,,..    il 

Richer ,   .  Ill 

Rle1ie.r&&d  (Bvaniie)  .  .  Ill 
Btc]i{>rame  ,,,..... 
Bleor^  (liOplUI)     ..... 

Kl^nf  tda) // 

Ki^ules  (rntt  et  citd  dee).  . 
Klmbaut  .,.,..... 
Klquet    ....«....* 

KivfiTifl  Ccit^) I^^ 

EW^ai  (de)    .  .  //,  ///,   V 

—  (pliiD«  de)    .....    // 

Eocbtibriui« 

RocbechDQ&rt .   ...... 

—  (buoJ,  de)    ....*-. 

Bocher  (da) . 

Roeroy  (da)  ,,,,.... 

Radier . 

BoBflr ........... 

RoEin  (de) i/ 

Kot-d«-81cile  (du]  .  .  .  .  F 

Roi^Dorfi  Cati) /// 

Bollin .   .  F 

—  (collifeefl)  ....,.., 
Hom&iDvllle  it,  &  porta  de] 
Roju(!  {de> ..-..,.// 
Kouce  (puiage)  ,,.... 
Robdfilet    ,..,«.... 

BoDsard     .   , 

Roqn^^i^Jai: // 

RuqneUa  (de  InJ. 

^  (pridoTi  d(t  IftJ    .   .    .    P    . 

Ru!3e«  (desj  .   « 

Boaiers  (des]  ......  K 

HosAiDi  ..,,..  //^  /// 
Rottuii    ..,.,,...  F 
KaUesabonrg    ....... 

Ruoelle  ....«,.../ 

RvBganLoat  (rae  ^  cLtd)  //i 
Boaeet-dfi-riilfi  .,..// 
Romlfl  C^Q) /// 

—  [A venue  da)    ...... 

Hoauel .......... 

RtiasBfttet ^   .    IF 

Konvet  .  .  .  t 

Boy // 

Royal  Cpoat) // 

Boyale .    II 

Royef-0>llfcpa  {t.  k  imp.)  F 
Rubena  .......... 

RiiijfieAU  f^Q)  ....... 

Bungta  Tpl-  de)  ...... 

Ruty    .  4   ........   . 

Baysdiiel  (mreuTie)     .... 


Sabliere  (de  lA)  .....    . 

SAblitaa  (dea)  ...*♦,/ 
—  (porte  dss). 

bfiiO 


SMbfaarSUfi  . 


83 


13 


IS 


15 


34 


ItJ 


17 


17 


23 


31 


23 


29 


Sftbot  (dii) /r    ,   Itt 

Sacrd-Coaur  («au¥«  do)     /F     .14 

—  ^u^liie  du).  *.,.»,    aO 
SaidA  (de  la)   ......  .     .     ,14 

atAmand. 11 

St-Ambrolia  (4%h  Ai-J     .   . 

St-AnaaUfle /// 

St-Andfd  det^AirU     (ruts     A 

place)   ......  /F,  F 

at-Antolne    .......  F 

—  (bopltftl) 

StrAiipuflUii // 

—  im^} 

St-Beiiolt  .......   /F 

St-Bernard  C^bH»0)    .... 

—  (qua!)  ........  F 

—  (rue  A  Imp.)  ...... 

S(-B1alie 

St-Boa    .,....../// 

8t-BrQno 

at-GhAflfl* / 

St-Clnade /// 

St-Olond  Cfcvenne  de)  .   .   . 

—  fporte  de) 

S^DenJa ///     ,24 

—  (boa].} ///     .24 

-  ((Jinal) . 

—  da-Si-SafireiBaDl  C^iHte} 

III    ,  2G 
St-DidiCT  ......    ,  .  / 

StrDomiiilqiie »   ,   .   .    I^il     .14 

8t>Eaprtt  (A^m.  da) .   .   .   F 
St-Etleniae-da-Moiit   (rue  & 

^£llie) V 

St-Hng^ne  (^glidel^   .    .  Ill   2t 
5(-Eu3taeIie((i^glide,placi!,  £ 

Impaue)  (H^efi)  .   ,  ///     .  21 

StFargsa^ 38  36: 

St-FerdLnand  (chap.,  roe,  £ 

plmce^ .......... 

St-Fiicrs ///     .21 

St-Flortntla //     .IS 

S(-FTaiifi>li-de-8Alet  (^gl.). 

—  XavifiT  (pi.  &  dgl.>  .  if 
5^C}eo^^ea  ((^^iLae)    .    .    .    .  |30 

—  [rqe  t  piAcfl).    ...     //   21 
St-GermAlo  Ooal.J  //,  /  F,  F 

—  (He) 

—  (march^)  ....*♦  /F     .19 

—  de-CliarODoti  r^g^Iijtfl}   .    ^      .35 

—  defl-Pr^a(^gH&e&  pL)  iF     .19 

—  lAux6jrrois  {i^\  .tr^  III     .20 
St-G^rTab  (deliM] 23 

at-emes ///    .26 

St-Oothard  Cdal.   .  .  . 
\-^t^«>        /Jv 


20 


LIST  OF  THE  PBINOIPAI  STRBBT8, 


B. 

_B 

_o 

B. 

K. 

o. 

at-JMqaefl .  V 

10 

18 

St-B^verJa  (rue  ft  %lifle}   V 

19 

—  (boulev&rdjt   * 

, 

20 

3i-5imon iT 

17 

-*(flqTi.  &  tourj.    .   .   .  Ill 

33 

St'SulpiM  ijttxt,  jj,,  «  dgL] 

—  dti-Hattt-PM  t^gL)  .   .    V 

, 

19 

/F 

IS 

8  trj  e&D  -Baptisto-de-Bell  8- 

—  (ifimlualre  de) 

€ 

vlllft  fegliK)    ...... 

33 

St'Tbcuaafl-d'Aquiii  {^eli"i 

de^QrenelJo  f^glise)  - 

7 

rue,  ft  plica)    »  ,  ,  .  /F 

17 

at-Jeui  dfl-Dlflu  (FTCTBa)  JV 

13 

9t-Victor     ,.._..     F 

22 

atJnsoph /// 

21 

St-Vincent,  MLmtmatti-e  ,   . 

^ 

-  (^El.) 

a? 

—  deFam  t^gliatJ  *  Tne} .   . 

24 

—  des  AlleTOftndft  ,  .  .  .   . 

CT 

—  de-Paul  (BCEnrfl  de)  .  JF 

16 

—  (ab»u.  une).).    -   .   .  .  . 
St-JuUeB-la-FanTre  .   .  .  V 

13 

22 

T 

Bt-Tvea  ..,.,,.,., 

18 

Ste^Alicc 

17 

St-Lambert  ........ 

Ste-Aiina  (dirlise]    .   ,    .   ,    . 

21 

St-tnarent  (^glise)    ...  - 

10 

—  (fue  ft   pass.)    .   .   ,    11 

ai 

—  fpHSBBge).    .....  JJI 

k 

—  Poplncotkrt  (jiaaa.)    .   ,    , 

n 

24 

Stti-Apolline    .   .   .  .   ,  111 

34 

—  (m^  &  KR")  ....    II 

Ifi 

Ste-Avoye  (pajjsa^*)  ^    ■  III 

!S 

SuLeu  C^glfje)    ..../// 

33 

bta^Bwbe  !.eoil6|ge)  .    .    .    F 

Ifi 

St  Lrinis  (h5pitalj     .   .  /// 

il 

3te'C€clIe 17/ 

21 

—  (^H  et  pont)  .....  F 

as 

StB-Cbapelle  (pal.  da  j  u#t.>  F 

2W 

-  Pyc^Bl  .   , F 

10 

Ste-Clotildfl  t^gHaa)  ,   .   /F 

14 

—  Rnx-Itiy*11dM  (dgllae)  /F 

14 

.—  d'Autin  t^glisfl)     .    .     // 

is 

Craft  ft  pann.)  .    .    .111,7 
aie-Ellaabetb  (r.  ^  dgl.)  /// 

28 

—  fln4 He  (rue  &  ^e^iae)  F 

22 

^n 

St-Handd  Ur.    $    port«   do) 

ii 

34 

Sla-Eug^nie 

2B 

St  Mftrc      ....,//,  /// 

Ste-Euphrasje 

19 

St-Mareul  fbonl.  ft  ^IJ  .    . 

22 

Sta-F^litiitd  (impaaaej  .    .   . 

^ 

to 

Si-Mftrtin  .    .    ,    ,     ,    .   .  Ill 

23 

3le-Foy  (rue  Jt  pass.)  . /// 

24 

—  fbiinl.  *  porte}    .    .    . /// 

24 

Sta-GBftevifeve  {^gUae)    *    7 

19 

—  fcanal) 

ii 

37 

-{pla^e).  . r 

22 

—  (mircb^) /// 

24 

Ste-MargneHte  (r.  ft  ^gl.)  . 

28 

St-M&ur-PopinccJttrt  .    ,  1/7 

it 

29 

8te-ai*HB  ......... 

20 

SM[(id4Td  Cr.  &  dElIie)    ,  F 

. 

^ 

—  (flOQr  A  passage)  ,    .    *    . 

27 

St-iltrryfr.  ft  ^1.}    V,  I/I 

23 

—  dfla-BatigngUea  {dglifle) . 

11 

at^Mlcliel  (boalj .   .    IV,  7 

10 

IB 

Sla-llartbft /// 

m 

—  (lioapieaj .,..,.,. 

34 

Sta- Opportune  (r.  ftp].)  /// 

20 

—  (pont,  place,  ft  fluai)   V 

l'& 

ate-P^lagiaCpriflon}.  .  .  7 

22 

StrHlcolaB  Cpott)    .   .   .     II 

20 

StePrirlue  (institut.  do).   . 

4 

—  deu-Champs  iAgUic}   .  . 

21 

Salntooga  (da)    ..,./// 

Sti 

—  du-ChftTiioTiiiet  t^gUfle)  , 

23 

Sainta-Pire*  (daii)  ,    .   ,   /F 

17 

St-Oiien    Ut.    ft  porto    del 

i% 

—  (pont  des)  .    .    .    .11,1V 

») 

St-Paul  (rtiflft  pasB.)  .  .   F 

afi 

SalnauTfl  ....,.,., 

14 

—  8aittt-LoQli  (^glUe)    .  F 

25 

Salomon-da-Caua    .  .  .  Ill 

31 

Sl-PdteraboQm  [da) 

n 

3alp«trlfrr6  (dft  la)     .   .    .   , 

26 

8t-Pblllbert  (avenQB)    .  .  . 

6 

—  fliflpttal  de  3a) 

, 

ab 

St-Pbilippa  .,,.../// 

ad 

Sambre-aHlaaaa  (da)  .  .  . 

77 

—  du-HoQla  (^filisej.  .    // 

ib 

12 

3aEutoD  ,   ^ 

3a 

St-HerTe-dfi-Cbiillotti^^L)/ 

Bjuit^  (rns  at  prfHoii  dti  la) 

. 

20 

—  de-Mantmartre  (placo  ft 

Santatiil 

22 

^gllie) 

ac 

Sarelio 

IH 

—  de-MonttoQg:6  (figlie*!    . 

n 

Siaifroy     ......... 

16 

—  dii-QTOfl^Gailloii  (tfglO    I 

12 

Sfinlaa  Cdoa) 

20 

—  dd-Temple  (pas*.}   .  Ill 

26 

SaalnioT  fpasftage)     .   .  /// 

21 

—  at-Antoinfl  fpaaa*^*)  .  F 

20 

Saum^jy  (du) /// 

31 

SU'laclde IV 

16 

Sauiaaieft  {dea)   ....    // 

16 

Si-Uoth  f%1.  ft  rHft)  .   .   II 

18 

Banasnra    ....*..,. 

14 

St-RonxKin JV 

Ifi 

SaTiTage ,  , 

% 

StrSAhin    .....  ///,  y 

HaiiTal .  /// 

* 

21 

-St-^anveof Ill 

',W\   VfeM^uvit^ y[ 

30' 

St^S^ha^BU^n,    ,    ,    ,    .  .  in 

\'S 

W 

1  aa«  VWftiiiit  ^t^  .  .  .   V{\ 

SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


21 


B.B.a. 


ScaU  tla) /// 

Qce^ux  (anc.  £Bre  dc).  .  . 
ao«mii3t-CetDlurB  (slit,  de) 
Bcili«iff«r  ,..,...*/ 
StbpmboFg  .......  y 

ScbdmetT 

Sclpioii  {jTkt  it  piacfl)  -  .  . 

Seribfl J! 

S(Jb*»topol  CboTileT.  dfl]  /// 
deiiT^Uti    ,»*,*,*** 

Sedaine *  F 

S^dillQt / 

S^^er  .,..*...»  F 
S^gur  Caireniio  do)  .  .  17 
Selna  (de} IV 

—  (quai  de  ]a>  ,...<, 
S^at  (paUiff  dn)    ,    .    .   /F 

S^fi^gal  (da)     , 

Sentiflr  (da) /// 

Sergeat-B&Qehat  (da)  .  .  . 
Sarpeiate  ..,*,..,  F 
adrarier  [bonlerArd)  .  ,  . 
Servan  ....,,,,,, 
Serv&adoal  *..♦..  /F 
dave«tfi  ...»**.... 
a^Tlgtt^  ,»,,.....  F 
S^rret  (de)   ...,,,  /F 

—  (porta  de]  .»....* 
Sfesft  (del  .,,...  .  7/ 
Sfii  fdel  ....,.,./ 
B\%m  (dc]  ......... 

SibiLfit ,  .  . 

Simart 

Simon-le^FrHiiD  ....  ^// 
Sl£as>Det  {paAP4g4}  ..... 

Simplan  fda) 

Singer    -.►....... 

Smala  (de  la)  ......   . 

Bcaar-fto^alte  (avonciej  .  . 
SfllfdriDO  (rae  &  paat  de)  // 

Salldarkd  fde  la) 

SoUtftlreA  (dej) 

Sommet-aTd  [du)    .  .  .  .  F 

aonUr  (de)  .......  / 

Sorbifir  .......... 

Sorbonna  ........  F 

—  (pl.,  r.,  A  pa«.  dd  la)  F 
Sonfflot .........  F 

Sfrnlt  rboalerardj  ..... 

Sourdifera  (de  la)  .   .  .     11 

Sourdlii /// 

S<m7dfl'SfaetflCid«tit,dea>.  F 

Soyer 

Spontini  .....  ^  ^  .  . 
St&nialai  iriie  £  paap^AgeJ  /F 

—  (colttfo)  .,...,    /r 

StoIuktirqDfl  (dd)    ..... 

Btomlof  [cit^] 

Stendhal 

fMiph^n^on 


24 


30 


29 


^3 


IB 


29 


23 


33 


29 


S4 


t9 


^31 


3EriU!(boiir^  (rne  A  garc  da) 

—  fboulevard  dn).  .  .  /// 
Suchftt  (bonloTiLFd)  .... 
Sud  (paita^ga  dn)  ..... 
anffreu  (avennQ  de)  .   .    ,   / 

Sugur F 

Salue^  (paaaafB  du)  .  .  . 
BuUj  (de) F 

—  (pcint) ,  F 

a^pjutif     .......     // 

SnrGne  (de)  .,*...     // 
SurtDLQlia  (da)     ...... 

BjDomDrea  (aTemie  dej)  .  . 

Tabada(mfti)D  future  desj  // 
TachfiT-ie  fde  la)     .   .    .   .  F 

Ta|a  (duj  ......... 

TRtl]aiidJ*r&  (dfls)  ..... 

TdllebQerg  (avennu  de)  .   . 

TailJepain /// 

Taitl30ut // 

Talma    ,..,,...., 

—  (clt^).  ,,.,..... 
Taogef  (da)  ..,,,..» 
Taaaeries  (deit)  ...... 

Tai-bd     , 

Tardleu 

Tarlor /// 

Tdh^PMi  (de) // 

T<ile^*ljhe  fdtt).  .  ,  .  .  . 
Temple  (da) /// 

—  (bonl.  da) /// 

—  (marcb^  du}  ....  Ill 

—  (jiquara  da)    .    .    .    ^  III 
T^nltira  h    ........   . 

T^Jnon  (hdpilflj)  .    ,    ^  ,    .   , 

Temattx 

Ternee  (pK  del").   ..... 

-^  (a*.^  clte^  4fc  porle  dee), 
Terrape  (da>    .....    .    . 

Tarra^ee  (de  la^)  ...... 

Terre-KaQTfl  {de) 

Terre«-aa-CaTd  (dea)     .    .    . 

TiMtre  (pi  nee  dn) 

T«iJOn    »,,...,.,. 

Texfll  fda) 

Tbajin  (de)   ........ 

Thd&tra  (da J 

TbisHtru  Antoinei.    .   .   .  /// 

Th.  D^ja^et Ill 

Tb.  de  FAmblgn  .  .  .  Ill 
Tb.  dti  la  Galt^  .  .  .  II! 
Th-dBlaPorle-St-Martin/// 
Th.  de  la  Hepatliqiip  Ut 
Tbv  de  la  Renaiaaance  /// 
Th,  de  rOddwn  ....  F 
Tb.  de  rOpera  ,  ,  -  .  I! 
Tb.  de  rOp^ra-Comltvift  H 

\TU,  dtM%ffl\?Jftft''¥B.T\%\%tV*  \  \ 


29 


24 

3 

10 
19 

,|J 
20 
23 
U 

m 
,  1 

14 
29 


24 


ai 

23 

121 
5 


*m 


13 
30 


S4 

27 

27 
24 

27 


13 


22 


LIST  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STREETS, 


B.  K.  a. 


B.B.G. 


Tlid^fe  Am  Kuuve&at^S  // 


Th. 
Th. 
Th. 
Th. 
Til. 
Tb, 


n 


da  Chitclet  .  .  ,  .  V 
An  Qymuue  «  .  ,  /// 
da  I'alftifl-Eo^al  .  .  / 
Au  VandeTiUa  ,  .  // 
FrmiciLU   .    .   *   *   .    // 

ThdofcFd V 

Tti^odule-Ribot  ,....* 
Th^opbiie-QanUer     .... 

Tb^f&e // 

ThomiopylM  (pKaatgu  dea) 

Tb^Jrj ,  . 

TUibftmi  ...,..,.. 
Tbiboamejy  ...,,.♦ 
Tb.!&rrd  (pafiftaKfl)  .  .  ,  ,  . 
Thionvilla  (de)  ..,,,. 
TholoEfl     ...,.,... 

Tborfll /// 

Thdrieny  (Ae) /// 

ThtmiD F 

TiErfl, .   .   , 

TillenU  (iLTenn«  d&s}   .    ,    , 

TSliitt  (dej    . 

Timbre  fb^tQl  dn)   //,  III 
Tlph&lDa  .......,, 

Tlquetunitfl  .,..,.  /// 

TiTdo    .<......,  r 

Tttoffl 

Tlemeeit    ......... 

TDCiinuvliie  [de)    ..... 

T^ilbUc  (dej    ,.,..♦. 

—  (pout  do) 

T<}mt}«-lBi$uirfl  [de  1a)  .  .  . 
ToTcy  (rue  £  place)  .  .  . 
Torricfllli*  ...,,,.. 

Tonlliat V 

Tonrnd^Aavergne  (de  UJ.  . 
Tour-dsji- Dames  (de  laj  ,  . 
Tour  (de  Hh  Pftflay  .  .  .  i 
TouTell&B  (deaj    ...... 

ToTipJaque , 

Totirncmrt ,  F 

TonrneUi^  fqual  £  pDbtd«l&] 
F 
TonmoU&s  (defl).  -  ///,  F 
TonrnoD  (dft)  .  ,  .  .  ,  /F 
Tonrlille  (de)  >,...., 
Tf>Tirville  (avcnuu  de)  Ij  I  V 
Tond^aint-Fdrcin      .    »    ,    ,    . 

Tra^sj  (dej /// 

Tralitir  ido).    ,...../ 

Tra^eriiW F 

rre/J&ftrd 

rr^moiiJe  (da  U} J 

IWHfle  (rue  et  cltti)    .  UI 

Tr4zal    .    _ 

Tribunal  de  CoinmeTCa  .  V 

~  fr.  &  d!]^],    fie  U) 


22 


TnjL'atli-ro  (tiat.  deTiT-  du) 

—  {pal.  &  pL  du).  ...  J 
TroU-BuTQCfl  (des],  .... 
^  OauTunDfLi  (dea]  .  .  .  ^ 
^  Fr^reti  (daa)   ...►,. 

—  Porleft  fdeft)    .    .    .    ,    .  F 

TVonctuit .     IJ 

Tr5Dty  (avaDde  dn)  .... 
TrOD««e&a  (h^pital  &  rue). 

Trtiyon 

Tradaine  (aveane)     .... 

TruffATilt 

TaLLerienlj^rd,^  p&liil!3,quaL 

&  rue  deii)    .....    // 

Tttrbigo  (de) /// 

TnreDno ///,    F 

Tnrgot  <Tdie  £  place)  ... 
Tui-la  {de) 

Wm  (d'J F 

UnjoD  (paua^e  de  T)     .  // 
Uoiversm  (de  T)  /,  J  J,  IV 
tiralDS  (des)     ......  F 

IFfaulineB  (dfli)   .....  F 

Uiinefl  (dea)     . 

Uafei  cn /// 

TU-dfl-Gi-acB  {liopilal  Au)  . 
VftlencB  (de)    ....... 

Vakuclennea  (dn) .   .   .   .    . 

VaJetto F 

VMbabert  (place).  .  .  .  F 
V&liay  (qnai  de)  .  .  .  /// 
y&loifl  (rue  A  piftce  de)    II 

Vftndil 

VLDdamme  ........ 

Van-Dyek  (aTenne)  .... 

Vaneaa /F 

VaiQTiefl  (de)  ......  /// 

V«.Dvea 

—  (^e) 

—  (po?U  de)   ....... 

Vafeane  (rqc  £  cite  de)  /F 
Vaiihaii  (place)  .   .   .  .   /F 

Vaticanecin    .....   . /// 

Vaac{iulcurft  CpUBi,ge)     .    . 
VaofeJaft  ......... 

VauKirard  (da)  .    .    .   /F,  F 

—  (b(>nl.  de)   .   .   .   .   .    /F 

—  (place  de)    

—  latatiaD  de)    ...... 

Vauqnelia    ........ 

VativiUierB  .....,/// 

Vavin IV 

^i^i.  t,4«  Ul 

\t\tA^^^t^lA■'v^w^'^*^  .  .  .  - 
^Jt^v^^^ *  l^ 


24 


27 


la 


10 


20 


.U5 


.    l\ 


19 


t» 


2& 


SQUARES,  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS,  etc. 


23 


B.  B.  G. 


B.  B.  O. 


Veotadonr  ,.**..  // 
V«ntu  C^ut.  (l«s)  .  .  .  JIJ 
VeroUgdtorli  -.,.»» 
Veieni&nd    ,»..,,.* 

Vetnat / 

VerneTiil  {de) 17 

Varnier 

V^po-DodfttCpMSage)//,  /// 
Vfiroa  ,.,.,,.,** 
VarrerSe  (de  U}  .  ///,  F 
Vem&Ules  (aTennq  de),   .  * 

—  (ports  de)  ,.*».,* 
Vflrsigny   *.,.,»   ^   ,   * 

VertbolB  (da J /// 

Yerle  (&ll*?fl)   .   .    .   *    .  /// 

Vertiu  CdM) /// 

Ytf^elay.   ..,....., 

Vial» 

VUtmei  fdfi)  ...../// 

Vlcq-d'Aalr 

Yietolrft  tde  li) 

Ttclolfen  (place  desj  -  /// 
Victor  fbonlftTird)    .... 

—  CoD9ldera»nt  ...,.¥ 

—  Coqjlo     ,.,.,,.  F 

—  Hugo  (*vO .,..,,/ 

fplftca)    .,..,., 

(lyetfe) V 

—  Mjua^  ,,,.,.«.. 
Vlfilopii  (i¥0  .  ,  ,  III,  F 
Vlelllfl-dU'Tamplo  ///,  F 
VleDDe  (dc)     »   ,   ,   ^   <   «   « 

Vi*tfi 

VifliiJt'ColDmhiBP  (du) ,  /F 
Tlgad  [pasaft^ti  dn)  »  ,  f// 
Ttpiea  (dej)}  .«.,.,» 
VtgdoUfiR  Cdea)  --...- 
Ylgnon     ,,»...*.// 

—  fpaftjAgoK   ...**»* 

Vilin 

Villa  Lnngchmnp  .  *  .  .  I 
Villars  (aveiiiie  da}  .    .   IV 

Vllledo // 

Ville-HjiTduniii  .    .   ♦   .  /// 

Tillejuif  tde) *   * 

Villejudt  (daj J 

Ville-FET^cicie  (rtie  A  plJLce 

de  la> // 

Villetieu?^fl  (da  la).  .  .  /// 
T[lleria?tel  [Ae)  ,  .  .   .   If 

VlLlfitte  [da  la) 

-^  (bhsaib  de  la)    ^   ,   «   ,   , 


19 


ib 


ao 


31 


31 


28 


33 


Villettffl  (boal,  da  Uj]  .  .  . 

—  (porta  de  la) .  .  P  .  .  . 
VilllerB{*T.  del 

—  fjjorttt  da> 

vnuot  ...,..,.,. 
ViD&lgrlerfl  (dei)  .  .  .Ill 
ViDceanes  (botfl  da) .... 

—  (euara  A  porta  da]  »  .   . 

—  (gan  da)  (ButlUe)  h   <  F 

Vtacent 

Vtnacua / 

Vingt-NfiuMQllSat  Cdn)  II 
Vintlmllla  (me  ^  place}  . 
Violet  (pauagfl)     ,  .  .  lit 

—  [rue  Sl  pi.).  Grenelle  .   . 

Vlr^nia 

VlscflDtl ly 

Vl^tuJa  (de  la}   .....   . 

Vil»l 

Vltmve 

Ylirs  [porta  de)     .....< 
Vi Vienna  [r.  ^p&sfl.)//,  /// 
Vok-Indnfitrialle    ..... 
VoJe-Vert*  [da  la)    .... 

Volnar ■    II 

Volontalna  (dai)  .  .  ,   ,  . 
Volta     ........  //I 

VoltalTB  (banL  &  place)  /// 

—  (qaai) IV 

VoflgBfltpL  A  TDB  da*)  .   .  F 

Vonilld  (de> 

Vodta  (da  U) 

VriUiAra  [de  la)    .  //,  HI 

Wagrain  (bt,  de) 

—  (pK  de)    . 

Washington     ....../ 

—  et  Lafayetta  (pionument 
de) / 

Watt 

Wattean 

Wattlfrux  (paAiage)  .... 

Wattignlej!  [de) 

Wllham 

Wurti    ..,.....,. 


Xain  train  ea 


Tvette  (da  V} .  . 
Ttoq' Vill  a  reaan. . 


Zacharla 


21 


34 


36 


30 


G 
35 


24 


21 


IB 


30 
I 
34 
18 
L3 


24 
26 


34 
21 


25 


n 

23 
32 
31 
|2e 


Omnibns  and  Tramway  Eoates  with  their  Correspon* 
dances. 

(Comp.  the  following  Tables  and  Plan,  and  p.  23  of  the  Handbook.) 
List  of  tlie  Omnibus  Lines. 


Lines 


Offices  (*OorrespondaBces',  see  p.  29). 


A.  Pkue'CUchy-Carrefour  da 
FeuiUantines  (PI.  E 1  &  F5). 


B.  TroeadirO'Oare  de  VEtt 
(PI.  C  3  <fc  G  2). 

0.  Porte  MailloUHdtel  de  Ville 
(P1.C^&G4). 

0bi8.  Etoile-PalaU  Royal  (PI. 

C  2  &  F  3). 
D.  Let  Temes-Boul.  det  Fil- 

let-du-Calv.  (P1.C2&H3). 

DbiB,  as  />  from  the  J^ace  de» 

Terms. 
£.  Madeleine 'Ba»Ull€  (PL  E 

2-3  &  H  4). 

F.  Place  Wagram  -  Bastille 
(PL  D  1  &  H  4). 

G.  Square  des  Batignolles- 
Jardin  des  Plantes  (iPl.  E 1 
&  G6). 

H.  Batignolles  - Clichy  -  Odion 
(PL  E  1  &  F  5). 


I.  Place  Pigalle- JSaUe  aux 
Vins  (PL  F  1  &  G5;  BouL 
St.  Germain  14). 

J.  Mofitmartre- Place  St.  Jac- 
ques (PL  F  1  &  F  6). 


K.Notre-Dcme-de-Lorette-Boul. 

St.  Marcel  (P\,  G1&G6). 
L.  La  Villette-St.Sulpice  (PI. 

HI  &  F  4). 


Jl!.'     Buifes  -  Chaumont  -  Palais  \ 
Royal  (PL  K  1  &  F  3). 


Place  Clichy  and  thence  to  the  Od^on  as  in 
Line  H  (see  below) ;  then  Bool.  St.  Michel 
(Rue  Soufflot),  Rue  Gay-Lussac,  Garrefour 
des  FeuiUantines. 

Trocad^ro,  Champs-Elys^es,  62  j  St.  PhU.-da- 
Roule,  St.  Augustin,  St.  Lazare,  Trinity,  R. 
Gh&teaudnn,  Sq.  Montholon,  Gare  de  rBst. 

Porte  Maillot,  Place  de  TEtoile,  Champs-Eiy- 
sdes,  62:  Palais  Royal,  Louvre,  Cb&telet, 
Hdtel  de  Ville. 

From  the  Etoile  as  line  C,  with  detour  via 
Rue  Francois  I. 

Les  Temes,  beyond  the  railway.  Place  des 
Ternes,  BouL  Haussmann,  175^  St.  Philippe- 
du-Roule,  Madeleine,  Palais  Royal,  Louvre, 
Halles  Centrales,  BouL  de  S^bastopol,  and 
BouL  des  Filles-dn-Calvaire. 

Madeleine,  BouL  des  Italiens,  Porte  and  Bonl. 
St.  Denis  and  St.  Martin,  PL  de  la  R^pn- 
blique,  Boul.  des  Filles  du-Calvaire,  Bastille. 

Place  Wagram,  R.  Legendre,  Boul.  des  Bali- 
gnoUes,  St.  Lazare,  Bourse,  PL  desVictoires, 
Halles  Centrales,  R.  Rambuteau,  36  \  Bastille. 

Square  des  Batignolles,  PL  Clichy,  Trinity, 
Palais  Royal,  Louvre,  Ch&telet,BouLSt.Ger- 
main,  14.  Halle  aux  Vins,  Jardin  des  Plantes. 

Av.  de  CUchy,  143  ^  PL  Clichy,  R.  de  Chateau- 
dun,  Boul.  des  Italiens,  8*,  Palais  Royal, 
Qui^  des  Tuileries  (Pont  du  Carrousel), 
St.  Germain-des-Pr^s,  St.  Sulpice,  Od^on. 

PL  Pigalle,  R.  de  Ch&teaudun,  BouL  des  Ita- 
liens, 8;  Bourse,  PL  des  Victoires,  Louvre, 
PL  St.  MlcheL  PL  Maubert,  Halle  aux  Vins. 

Rue  Ordener,  72;  Boul.  Rochechouart,  Sq. 
Montholon,  Halles  Centrales,  Ch&telet,  PL 
St.  Michel,  Square  de  Cluny,  R.  Soufflot, 
Boul.  St.  Jacques. 

Rue  de  Chateaudun,  Halles  Centrales,  Chftte^et, 
Halle  aux  Vins,  BouL  St.  Marcel. 

R.  de  Flandre  (Abattoirs),  Boul.  de  la  VU- 
lette,  Gare  deTEst,  BouL  6l  Porte  St.Xartin, 
Rue  de  Rambutcaxi  36,  PL  St.  Michel,  Sq. 
dft  CVwn^  ^  ^\..  Sxxlyice. 

\  "R.  Tft^&TAii^U.  ^'fc^feWi^^^.'^OCv^itt.^R.  de  Stns- 
tioyal  (PL  K  1  &  F  3).  \     \)0\«%,Vox\.ft^X.A^fcp^&.J^^%^^V^^-%«^,L 


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Cab  Tariff. 

(Comp.  also  pp.  22,  23  of  the  Handbook.) 


Within  the  City. 


From  6  a.  m.  in  summer 
(3l8t  March  to  lat.  Oei,)^ 
and  from  7  a.  m.  in  winter 
(1st  Oct.  to  31tt  March), 
till  12.30  at  night: 


From  12.30  at  nigh; 
till  6  a.  m.  in  snmn 
(3Ut  March  to  lit  Oa 
and  till  7  a.  m.  in  win 
(lit  Oct.  to  3Ut  Mard 


Gab  hired  in  street  or  at  a 

station : 
Ordinary  Gabs  for  2  pers. 
Ordinary   Cabs  for  4  pers. 
Landau  for  4  pers.     .    .    . 


Per  Drive 
fr.     c. 

1  50 

2  — 
2    '60 


Per  Hour 
fr.     c. 
2      — 
2      50 


Per  Drive 

'  fr.     c. 

2     25 

2  60 

3  — 


Per  Ha% 
fr.  0. 
2     50 

2  75 

3  50 


Beyond 

the 

Fortifications. 


From  6  a.  m.  till  12  at  night  in  summer,  or  from 
till  10  p.  m.  in  winter. 


When  the  hirer 

returns  to  the 

town  in  the  same 

cab: 


When  the  hirer 
does  not  return,  he 
must  make  addi- 
tional payment  of: 


When  the  cab 
hired  outside  \ 
town: 


for 


Per  Hour 
fr.     c. 


Return  Money 
fr.     c. 


for 


Ordinary    Gabs 

2  pers 

Ordinary    Gabs 

4  pers 

Landau  for  4  pers. 

Luggage,  one  trunk  26  c  ,  two  50  c,  three  or  more  lb  c. 


50 
75 


1      — 


1  — 

2  - 


Per  Bofur 
tt.     c. 

2  — 

3  60 

3     — 


There  is  no  tariflT-charge  for  drives  beyond  the  fortifications  at  night;  avi 
agreement  should  be  made  in  each  case.    Drivers  are  not  bound  to  convey 
engers  beyond  the  furtilications  between  midnight  (or  in  winter  10  p.m.)  and  6 

In  engagements  by  time  one  hour  at  least  must  be  paid  for;  after  tbe 
hour  the  payment  is  calculated  by  fractions  of  five  min.  each.  Cabmen  are  !>• 
to  drive  at  tlie  rate  of  not  less  than  8  kil.  (5  M.)  per  hr.,  except  when  othei 
d4rected  by  the  hirer. 

Any  free  cab  may  be  hired  in  the  street  or  on  a  cab-rank ,  no  matter  i 
position  it  occupies  on  the  latter. 

Articles  left  in  cabs  should  be  given  up  by  the  cabmen  at  the  Pr^feeiv 
Police,  where  application  should  be  made  for  ttiem  (p.  224). 

Drivers  may  refuse  to  convey  dogs  or  other  animals.  ^ 

Gratuities  may  not  be  demanded  by  the  drivers,  but  it  is  usual  to  give  * 
per  drive,  or  25-30  c.  per  hour,  in  addition  to  the  fare. 


Leipflic :  PTlnte^V  \>7  BxAtVo^^^  &  B:i»i^\. 


«NirR/* 


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;     3  bins  005  002  ItS 

J. J     „  i^^H-»i   J^\'       !  IT  JL.jiiisr 


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