six
_j slaw or le
^V gwj. ** -*
made f rom tnree egg- .--
twelve tablespoonfuls c
i,v>vj-' , rreSLIll* n*
tablespoonfuls ot .v 1 **^.^. one table-
spoonfuls of melte ^^ ' half a ta ble-
^ssa^^-L
one of sugar .. < * 1 ". T h
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
THE GASTRONOMY COLLECTION OF
GEORGE HOLL
AGRIC.
LIBRARY
/
THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
COPYRIGHT^ 1890,
BY THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING COMPANY, [LIMITED].
-Vh<e-fS
METROPOLITAN
CULTURE SERIES.
THE
PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
FIRST EDITION.
NEW YORK:
THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING COMPANY, [LIMITED).
1890.
" Ah I happy age when ladies learn to bake,
And when kings' daughters know to knead a cake.
Rebecca was esteem'd of comely hue,
Yet not so nice her comeliness to keep
But that she water for the camels drew."
THOMAS FULLER.
" The turnpike road to people's hearts, I find,
Lies through their mouths, or I mistake mankind."
DR. WOLCOT.
AGRUX
LIBRA!"
INTRODUCTION.
A BOOK on cookery that is to be of genuine assistance
alike to the experienced housewife and to the beginner
must, in our opinion, possess two important qualifica-
tions ; in the first place, the dishes and preparations pre-
sented in it must be such as may be readily made up
with the facilities to be found in an ordinary household ;
and in the second place, all instructions and directions
should be couched in language so simple that every one
can comprehend them. It has been our earnest endeavor
that in both these respects the present work shall excel.
The recipes are eminently practical and easy to follow,
all having been thoroughly and successfully tested by the
author; and in their selection chief attention has been
given to those unpretentious yet dainty and wholesome
dishes that are so acceptable and appropriate upon the
average family board.
Among the admirable features of the book deserving
INTRODUCTION.
of special mention are an intelligent but not too
lengthy dissertation on the Chemistry of Food ; a
Cook's Time-Table ; a chapter on Cookery and Simple
Remedies for the Sick; a list of Menus for all occa-
sions; a Glossary of Terms used in Cooking; a Table
of Measurements ; helpful talks regarding " Small Econ-
omies," "Things Worth Knowing," and "Miscella-
neous Helps;" and lastly, a most admirably arranged
index.
When we add that the work is from the pen of one
whose experience entitles her to a position of foremost
authority in all matters pertaining to the culinary science,
we have said all that is needful to commend the book
fully and heartily to the world of women as a complete
and reliable guide in the selection, preparation and cook-
ing of food.
THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING Co.
{Limited}.
CONTENTS.
PREFATORY.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE COOKERY OF THE PAST AND
PRESENT. WHAT COOKERY is. THE EFFECT OF HEAT,
COLD, WATER, AND AIR IN COOKERY, . -13
THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD.
WHY WE EAT. WHAT TO EAT. WHEN TO EAT CER-
TAIN FOODS. ...... 17
THE KITCHEN.
PLANS FOR THE ROOM. CARE OF ROOM AND UTENSILS.
UTENSILS NEEDED. LIST OF UTENSILS, WITH PRICES.
CUTS OF SOME OF THE UTENSILS NEEDED, . . 25
MARKETING.
.SEASONS FOR THE DIFFERENT MEATS. BEEF, WITH CUT
OF Ox. VEAL, WITH CUT OF CALF. MUTTON, WITH
CUT OF SHEEP. LAMB, WITH CUT OF LAMB. VENI-
SON, WITH CUT OF DEER. PORK, WITH CUT OF PIG.
How TO SELECT POULTRY, FISH, GAME, EGGS AND
APPLES, . . . . . -47
PLAIN DIRECTIONS.
How TO DO ROASTING. BROILING. BOILING. FRYING.
How TO CLARIFY FAT FOR FRYING. How TO DO SAU-
TEING. BRAISING. LARDING. (WITH CUT OF LARDED
MEAT.) BONING AND STEAMING. THE COOK'S TIME
TABLE FOR ROASTING. BROILING. BAKING, ETC., . 57
7
CONTENTS.
SOUP..
SOUP FOR STOCK. MEAT FOR STOCK. To CLEAR STOCK.
To SEASON STOCK. THICKENING FOR STOCK. COLOR-
ING FOR STOCK. WHAT MAY BE SERVED IN SOUP.
RECIPES FOR SOUP WITH STOCK. SOUP WITHOUT
STOCK, WITH RECIPES, . . . -70
FISH.
SOMETHING ABOUT FISH. To CLEAN. To SKIN. FILLETS
OF FISH. FISH BOILED. FISH BAKED, WITH STUFF-
INGS. FISH FRIED. FISH BROILED. OTHER MODES
OF DRESSING. FISH REMNANTS. SHELL-FISH. FISH
SAUCES, ....... 96
MEATS.
BEEF. USES FOR COOKED BEEF. VEAL. MUTTON. LAMB.
PORK. POULTRY AND GAME. RECIPES FOR THE
PREPARATION OF THE SEVERAL KINDS OF MEATS, . 142
VEGETABLES.
GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. PROPER VEGETABLES TO SERVE
WITH THE DIFFERENT MEATS. RECIPES FOR THE PREP-
ARATION OF MANY KINDS OF VEGETABLES, . . 239
SALADS.
DRESSINGS. COLORING FOR SALAD DRESSING. SALAD
COMBINATIONS, 2 9 2
CHEESE DISHES.
VARIOUS WAYS OF PREPARING CHEESE. How RARE-BITS,
STRAWS AND OTHER DAINTIES ARE MADE, . 308
EGG DISHES.
THE COOKING OF EGGS, OMELETTES, ETC., . 3 l6
BREAD.
GENERAL HELPS IN MAKING. FLOUR. YEAST. SPONGE.
KNEADING. MOULDING. BAKING. R E c i P E s FOR
BREAD MADE WITH THE DIFFERENT YEASTS.^-HOW TO
MAKE ROLLS, BUNS, RUSK, ETC., . 33 2
CONTENTS. 9
BREAKFAST DISHES, BISCUIT, GEMS, ETC.
RECIPES FOR MUFFINS. GRIDDLE CAKES. SOUTHERN
CAKES, AS CORN DODGERS, CORN-PONE, ETC. DOUGH-
NUTS. FRITTERS. CEREALS FOR BREAKFAST, . . 358
PIES;
PASTRY. PUFF PASTE. How TO SHAPE PASTE. RECIPES
FOR MANY KINDS OF PIE, . . . . . 388
PUDDINGS.
GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. RECIPES FOR HOT PUDDINGS.
RECIPES FOR COLD PUDDINGS. SAUCES FOR BOTH HOT
AND COLD, ....... 413
FROZEN DISHES.
ICE-CREAM OF VARIOUS KINDS. How TO MAKE A MOUSSE-
SOUFFLES ICES SHERBET FROZEN FRUITS, ETC., . 461
CUSTARD, CREAMS AND GELATINE JELLIES.
BOILED CUSTARD. BAKED CUSTARD. WHIPPED CREAM,
WITH WAYS OF USING. JELLIES. How TO CLEAR.
How TO REMOVE FROM THE MOULD. RECIPES FOR
JELLIES, . . . . . . . 481
TARTS COOKIES MOLASSES CAKES, ETC.
FILLINGS FOR TARTS. VARIOUS RECIPES FOR COOKIES-
GINGERBREAD, ETC., . . . . . 503
CAKE.
GENERAL HELPS IN MAKING. LOAF-CAKE LAYER-CAKE.
FILLINGS FOR LAYER-CAKE. FROSTING OR ICING
CAKES. How TO DECORATE WITH ICING, . 515
BEVERAGES.
REMARKS ON DRINKS. TEA CpFFEE COCOA SUMMER
DRINKS. THE SERVICE OF WINE, WITH A WINE
MENU, ....... 554
10 CONTENTS.
FRUIT HOW TO SERVE IT.
VARIOUS KINDS OF FRUIT. How TO ICE FRUIT. COOKED
FRUITS, 5 66
COOKERY FOR THE SICK.
SUGGESTIONS FOR PREPARING VARIOUS DISHES. TEAS
BROTHS GRUELS, ETC. DRINKS FOR THE SICK.
THREE MENUS FOR AN INVALID, . . . -57 \
MENUS.
A THANKSGIVING DINNER. A CHRISTMAS DINNER.
MENUS FOR A DAY IN SPRING. A DAY IN SUMMER. A
DAY IN AUTUMN. A DAY IN WINTER.. MENUS FOR A
LENTEN DAY. A COMPANY LUNCHEON. A COMPANY
DINNER. Two MENUS FOR EVENING CARD PARTIES, . 588
MEASUREMENTS.
HELPFUL TABLE FOR HOUSEKEEPERS, . . . 596
SMALL ECONOMIES.
VARIOUS WAYS ro ECONOMIZE. How TO USE WHAT is
SAVED, ....... 590
THINGS WORTH KNOWING.
How TO DO VARIOUS THINGS NOT COMMONLY UNDERSTOOD.
How TO MAKE VARIOUS KINDS OF SUGAR. How
TO CREAM BUTTER. How TO MAKE CLARET VINEGAR.
How TO KEEP FOOD IN THE ICE CHEST. WHAT
LIME WATER is GOOD FOR, .... 604
INDEX, . ..... 617
THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK
PREFATORY.
" There's no want of meat, sir,
Portly and curious viands are prepared
To please all ki.nds of appetite."
MASSINGER,
"THE destiny of nations depends on their diet,' 1 says
Savarin, an opinion exactly coinciding with that of the
ancient ballad-monger who asserted the infallibility of
Britons so long as they were fed upon beef. Without
exactly agreeing with either of these, time has proven
that the civilization of a people or age may be ascer-
tained by the style of its cookery that gastronomic taste
changes with the progress of a people. In the time of
Henry VIII. a porpoise was esteemed a great delicacy.
The seasoning of dishes was strong and pungent, saffron
being a predominating flavoring for them. Shaks-
pere speaks of this in "The Winter's Tale," when
the clown, sent shopping for the sheep-shearing feast,
says, " I must have saffron to color the warden pies."
The fee-favor of the city of Norwich was twenty-four her-
ring-pies, each containing five herrings. They were car-
14 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
ried to court by the Lord of the Manor of Carleton in
1629. These pies were seasoned with ginger, pepper,
cinnamon, cloves, and " grains of Paradise," which were
much used in those days of strong palates, being pun-
gent and peppery. Looking back only to the last cent-
ury, we are confronted with the coarseness of our more
recent ancestors' cookery. A gammon of bacon was
to be boiled and a quantity of hay was tied up in a
cloth and placed in the water during the cooking for
flavoring. A neck of lamb was fried with ale, which
appears to have been freely used in cooking. Simplicity
evidently was unknown, as may be gathered from a
perusal of the " Cook's Dictionary," published a century
ago.
But we must not forget, while criticising the cookery
of the past, that every age and country have been laid
under contribution to supply the materials with which
the modern cook works, and that our tables are now sup-
plied, thanks to the increased and rapid intercourse with
other lands, from the larder of the world. How best to
use and enjoy these gifts of Providence became at length
a study, and a literature of cookery gradually arose.
The first books were written by cooks or housewives, who
lacked the power of language to convey their knowledge
to others ; and like the " Cook's Dictionary," their books,
.ill-spelled and poorly expressed, were of no great use to
the worker. But in the present day, as the art improves,
books on the subject grow with it, and ladies vie, in
writing them, with the professional cook.
COOKING
is the art of preparing food for the nourishment of the
INTRODUCTION. 1 5
human body. It is usually done by the direct applica-
tion of heat, fruits and some of the vegetables eaten in
their natural state having really been " cooked " by the
sun. Milk and eggs, which are perfect food, would be
nothing unless they came from the warm living animal.
Foods dried or smoked have undergone a certain process
of natural cooking.
HEAT
seems to create new flavors and to change the odor,
taste and digestibility of nearly all articles of food. It
opens the cells of starch in flour, rice and potatoes ;
hardens the albumen in eggs, fish and meal ; softens the
fibre of tough meat, hard vegetables and fruits ; and
gives new flavor to tea, coffee, etc.
COLD
is also a most important factor in the preparation of
food ; honey, ices, custards, salads, butter, gelatine
dishes and many others being only fit to eat when cold.
WATER
or some other liquid, in connection with heat, is neces-
sary in the many forms of cookery. Grains, dried fruit,
and foods which have parted with nearly all their moist-
ure in the ripening or drying process, need the addition
of a large quantity of water in cooking to soften and
swell the gluten and starch before they are fit for the
table.
AIR,
or the free action of oxygen upon our food while cooking,
1 6 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
develops certain flavors not otherwise obtainable ; thus,
meat roasted or broiled has a much finer flavor than
when boiled or fried. Food cooked before the fire or in
the open air (as "camping-out" parties can testify)
shows the advantages of this combined action of heat and
air. Drying in the sun was one of the earliest modes of
cookery. Then came roasting before the fire or broiling
over the coals, and baking in hot ashes ; this last was the
primitive oven. As the art of making kitchen utensils
developed, other modes were adopted. Then to encono-
mize heat, ovens were invented. The oven originally con-
sisted of a covered dish set over or near the fire, having
sometimes a double cover filled with coals. Afterwards
stoves, which kept the fire and heat in a limited space,
were introduced ; and so extensive are the improvements
in them, that we now have conveniences with them for
doing all forms of cooking with wood, coal, oil or gas.
THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD.
" Now, good digestion wait on appetite,
And health on both."
SHAKSPERE.
WHY we eat, what to eat, and when to eat it, are
questions which all should be able to answer. That a
man may eat his fill and yet be hungry is a well-known
fact. What then is the reason ? It is certainly not the
quantity but the -quality of food which satisfies; and
often, indeed, it not only happens that what is one man's
meat is another's poison, but it is also true that what
is food at one season of the year or time of life, or
in one climate, may be poison at another season or
age or in another climate. Dwellers in the tropics
thrive on fruits upon which the inhabitants of the frigid
zone would starve, while the blubber and oil that com-
pletely nourish the Icelander would be fatal if eaten
under the Equatorial sun. Even the same person
requires fruit in the tropics and fat and oils in the frozen
zones. The child requires food made up of different ele-
ments from that needed by the adult, and the food of a
laborer in the field must differ from that of the student,
who takes little exercise, and whose strain of life is
heavy on the nervous system.
2 '7
I 8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
It is particularly important that those who are forced
to practice rigid economy should know just what will
best supply the needs of a family and how the most nour-
ishment may be had at a minimum of expense. We are
told by scientists that an adult requires daily eight
and a-quarter pounds of dry food and water, with air
necessary for respiration. The same amount is thrown
off as waste, or in other words eight and a-quarter
pounds is used up as fuel to keep the machinery of life in
motion, and if that fuel is not forthcoming, death ensues.
The better the oil, the better the light ; and the more
perfectly suited the food is to the wants of the system,
the more vigorous will be the body, the more perfect the
working of muscle, nerve and brain.
Food is first masticated, then digested. When it
reaches the stomach it is at once acted upon by the gas-
tric juice, which pours from the walls of the stomach.
Consequently, anything that dilutes this fluid tends to
retard digestion, and sickness follows. Therefore, it is a
mistake to drink freely during mastication, or until some
little time has elapsed after eating to allow the stomach to
do its work unhindered. As the juices of the stomach act
only upon the surface of the food which passes into it,
it can readily be seen why light bread is more whole-
some than heavy bread. Light, spongy bread is acted
upon in every part because the gastric juice is able to
penetrate it ; and if all housewives knew this, they would
not place the heavy, stale loaf on the table, " to save it."
Truly, many a mother gives a stone when asked by her
child for bread !
Fats of all kinds do not digest in the stomach, but
require the action of the bile and pancreatic juice
THE CHE MIS TR Y OF FOOD. 1 9
to make them available as carbon for living combus-
tion. Only as fat is combined with other food is it a
benefit to the system, and the use of more than can be
perfectly blended brings on indigestion and often exces-
sive " heart-burning," to use a domestic term. ^
Food has primarily two functions the repair of muscu-
lar waste, and the supply of the body with fuel to keep the
temperature up to 98 ; and each is indispensable to health
and strength. The chief part of our food goes to keep up
this living warmth, and the balance, except small portions
of mineral substances, such as sulphur and potash, goes
to muscle and brain production. The secret of healthy
food is to adapt it to the present needs of those for whom
it is prepared. Foods are divided into three classes :
the Nitrogeneous, in which nitrogen is the chief element,
and which feed the muscles only ; the Non-nitrogeneous
or Carbonaceous, which produce heat chiefly ; and those
in which the first two are combined.
It is known that the body requires four to five ounces
of food for heat to one for muscle, and this is the key to
preparing food in different climates and for different
occupations and conditions. The whites of eggs (pure
albumen) are richest in nitrogen or muscle-providing
food. The lean parts of beef, mutton, venison and game
contain nearly as great a percentage about fifteen parts
in one hundred. Grain, peas, beans and the curd of
milk are also rich in nitrogen, and if muscles were all
that were needed, these would be almost perfect food.
But for one ounce that goes to muscle, five ounces must
go to heat, and this means Carbon.
Carbon, the heat producer, comes chiefly from starch,
of which the vegetable kingdom is largely composed,
20 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Sago, tapioca, arrow-root and corn starch are almost pure
starch, and desserts made of them are easily digested and
contribute largely of carbon, but do not feed the muscles,
except they be combined with eggs, milk, etc., in cooking.
Consequently, children and working people who need to
have their muscles fed should be fed on such things
rather sparingly, unless muscle-making food has also
been eaten. For the student, the aged and those who do
not exercise much, these foods are most valuable, being
easily digested and productive of warmth.
The following table shows the proportion of starch in
common grains, etc.
Rice Flour,
84 to 85 parts in 100.
Indian Meal,
77-80 "
Oat
70 " 80 " " "
Wheat Flour,
39 "77 " " "
Barley "
67 "70 ' " "
Rye
50 " 61 " " "
Buckwheat,
52 " " "
Peas and Beans,
42 " 43 " <4 "
Potatoes,
13 " 15 " ' "
The variation in wheat flour is due to the different
processes of grinding. The old method of making fine,
white flour used only the middle of the grain and rejected
the gluten, which is nitrogeneous and muscle-building ;
hence the whitest flour was the least nourishing, contain-
ing the largest percentage of starch. Modern grinding
has, however, reversed this, and the "new process " flour
contains the largest percentage of gluten. The old argu-
ment that graham contained the largest proportion of
muscle-making material no longer holds good, as analysis
THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 21
has proven that the " new process " flour arid graham are
almost identical in these elements.
The substance of next importance in supplying carbon
to the body is oil. The oils used are butter, lard and the
fat of meat. They contain about 80 parts of carbon in
100. Grains contain oils in varying quantities, as follows :
Corn meal, 9 parts in 100.
Oatmeal, 6 " " "
Rye, 3 >
Wheat, i to 2 " " "
This furnishes the best of reason why fats should.be spar-
ingly used in hot weather, the grains and vegetables
supplying sufficient warmth-producing material. The
excessive use of fats in cooking causes an over-secretion
of bile, and this produces indigestion, sickness at the
stomach, and often fevers of different kinds. Dyspeptics
particularly should reject fried and oily foods.
One condition of life calls for a daily diet of fat, and
that is long exposure to excessive cold. When the
breath freezes on the beard, the lungs require a large
amount of heat to keep the body up to a normal tempera-
ture. The best bread for cold weather is that containing
the most oil. Corn bread ranks first, oatmeal second, rye
third and wheat last. Woodmen, sailors, street-car driv-
ers, railroad men and others exposed to long, cold storms,
especially when there is little opportunity for exercise,
should eat freely of fat meat and butter. Let the cook
remember, however, that fats are physic and truly harm-
ful if not blended with substances containing starch. An
ounce of lard and a pound of flour thoroughly blended in
wheat bread are digestible, but the same in corn meal
2 2 THE PA TTERN COOK- B O OK.
already rich in oil would only be fit for an Icelander.
The proper proportion of oil in food is found in milk,
which contains 3^ parts in 100.
The next element which supplies carbon is sugar,
which is found in all vegetables and largely in milk.
Sugar contains 40 parts carbon and 60 parts water ; con-
sequently candy should be sparingly eaten in the warm
months and children should be allowed little if any.
There are other elements found in food, and while
noticed only in small quantities, they are no less essential
to health and comfort. One is phosphorus, which
largely enters into the building up of brain and nerve
waste. ' Phosphorus is found in eggs, fish, oysters, lob-
sters, game, cheese and potatoes, and these should be
freely eaten by the brain-worker. Another element that
enters into body-building is sulphur, which is required
for growth of hair, nails, bones and cartilage. Of this
there is so much found in eggs that silver is darkened by
contact with them. Curd of milk and cheese are also
rich in sulphur. Iron is also present in the blood and is
found in most articles of food, being most abundant in
the juice of beef, in eggs and in milk. Lime and salt are
also needed for the body, the lime making bone, while salt
aids digestion. Lime is found' in all grains, in wheat
and in milk. Nothing is more healthful for growing
children than bread and milk, as it supplies heat, muscle
and bone material.
Races develop largely in proportion to their adeptness
in supplying heat and muscle producing food. The
Scotch use oatmeal, rich in nitrogen ; the Irish endure a
large amount of labor on cheap fare, potatoes, cabbage
and milk largely entering into their daily food. The use
THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 2$
of " Chemistry in Cooking," is to learn how to combine
all the life essentials. With a meal that contains much
nitrogen should be served vegetables and dessert that
are rich in carbon, to make up the needed healthy food.
For instance, the farmer's dinner of salt pork, cabbage
and potatoes is about perfect for an outdoor laborer in
cold weather, the cabbage giving the nitrogen and the
pork the carbon. It is a proper dinner also from the
fact that it takes four hours and a-half to digest, and, as
an old fanner once said, " it stands by a man," although
the why of the " standing " had never entered into his
education. Venison is about the easiest of digestion of
all meats and contains fifteen parts of nitrogen, which is
the same proportion as beef. Wheat bread does not con-
tain muscle-producing material enough for a laboring
man, and should be supplemented with lean meat ; conse-
quently a sandwich made of rare roast beef and bread is
most nourishing.
Beans contain, next to meat, the most nitrogen and
form a durable food for laborers, and this is the reason
the inmates of our State prisons have beans served to
them daily in the form of soup, made with fat pork, the
fat supplying the carbon needed. Cabbage ranks next
to beans in nitrogeneous qualities, and then come oats,
wheat and barley. Milk, containing all the elements of
body building, and eggs, rich in nitrogen, used together
with rice and sugar, containing carbon, produce a most
nutritious dish that is easy of digestion. Buttermilk is a
healthful drink in summer as it is still rich in nutritive
parts, and the acidity aids digestion. Eggs contain a
large quantity of carbon and are, in consequence, good
food for cold weather. Wheat bread alone will support
24 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
*
life longer than any one food, except meat, the propor-
tion of nitrogen to carbon i to 5 being nearly correct
for the student and those not taking vigorous exercise.
For active life, however, more nitrogen is needed, and
lean meat should be used.
Considering the requirements of the body and the ele-
ments that make up food, a wholesome breakfast should
consist of strength-giving and muscle-making food.
Nothing is better than broiled beefsteak, which is most
easily digested, especially by real workers. Eggs are
nourishing but less stimulating and provide for the mus-
cles. For heat, bread and cakes are to be preferred, and
fruit with its mild acid aids digestion. If coffee is to be
taken at all during the day, it should be drank in the
morning, as it is stimulating, and the effect should have
time to pass off before the hour for retiring comes.
In summer less carbon should appear on the bill of fare,
and blanc-manges, creams, berries and ripe fruits should
be served for dessert. In giving a dinner the wise host-
ess will consider well her company, their occupation,
etc. A party of hunters or outdoor workers would require
an abundance of meat, while persons of sedentary occu-
pation would be better pleased with delicacies and noth-
ings. A sleighing party will devour carbon, but persons
almost fainting under a July sun long for cooling fruits
and the leanest of meat. The time when food is given
should decide the nature of the bill of fare whether
easy of digestion or not ; thus those starting upon a jour-
ney should be given rare roast beef or beefsteak, which
can be quickly disposed of by the stomach (thus prevent-
ing possible loss by car sickness), rather than a fried
pork-chop, that takes nearly five hours to digest.
THE KITCHEN.
" There is always work,
And tools to work withal, for those who will."
LOWELL.
IT is almost impossible to give any except general sug-
gestions as to the arrangement of the kitchen.
If every housewife had the pleasure of planning this
part of her house, a model kitchen might be fully drawn
out ; but unfortunately the large percentage of our peo-
ple live in rented houses, in which the kitchen has to be
taken just as it is found, and endured among other incon-
veniences. A few hints, however, for those about to
build homes for themselves may be found helpful.
The room should not be too large, 15x15 feet being a
very good size. If larger, more time will be required to
keep it properly cleaned, and many more steps will be
needed to accomplish the necessary work. The matter
of ventilation should be given an important place in the
planning of the kitchen, since the comfort of the entire
household depends upon it. The odors from the cook-
ing should not go through the house, and high and wide
windows in the kitchen furnish the only means of pre-
venting this. Good ventilation and plenty of light are
indispensable, for there should be no dark corners to
25
26 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
tempt untidiness. The floor should be made of hard
pine, maple or birch, and laid in three-inch strips, and
a carpet should cover all the floor, except around the
stove, where an oil-cloth will be found muck neater.
Many persons object to a carpet in the kitchen, but it is
restful to tired feet and can be taken up and washed
when soiled.
About the room should be a wainscot of oiled pine
wood, and none of the wood-work should be painted.
The walls of the room are by many considered quite
improperly finished unless paint is applied, but unless
you are sure the painter understands just the kind of
paint to use, paper them instead. Well painted walls are
a continual satisfaction, for they can be easily cleaned ;
but when poorly painted they are great burdens to the
good housekeeper, inasmuch as no amount of cleaning
cleans them. If paper is used, choose neither a light
nor a dark tone, and have plenty of it left over to
repair any disasters that may come to the walls.
The usual objection to paper, that the steam from the
cooking ruins it, will not hold good if the windows are
lowered from the top a couple of inches throughout the
day. Whitewash the ceiling, and have it re-whitened
every spring at the usual cleaning time.
Have a large sink, choosing one of iron rather than of
slate, as dishes are more likely to be chipped and broken
if a stone sink is used. The strainer in the sink should
be fastened down permanently, as anything that will not
run through the holes ought not to go into the drain pipe
at all. A great temptation to raise the lid and let sedi-
ment pass through is thus removed. Do not enclose the
space under the sink, for such a closet will afford a
THE KITCHEN. 2/
secure and inaccessible abiding-place for water bugs
should they gain a foothold in the kitchen. Besides, if
this be left open, the manner in which it is kept will
furnish a reliable criterion of the neatness of the kitchen
maid.
In many parts of the country what is known as the
'"dresser" in the kitchen is not in use, the pantry giving
space enough for dishes and utensils of all kinds. A
dresser usually has two closets above and two below, with
two deep drawers at the top of the lower closets. In the
upper closets should be kept all the dishes necessary for
use in the kitchen, and in the lower ones all pots, sauce-
pans and other utensils of this kind. In one of the
drawers should be the cooking knives and forks, larding
needles, wooden spoons, can-opener, rolling-pin, etc. ;
and in the other the jelly-bags, dish-towels, linen soup-
strainer, fish cloths, a large extra piece of cheese-cloth
that may be torn into convenient pieces as wanted, a ball
of twine and all other necessary articles of this kind. It
is a question whether a dresser is a good arrangement for
dishes, as the doors of the upper closets are frequently
left open by careless workers, so that the smoke from
broiling and the steam from the cooking have a most
untidy effect upon the dishes. It is very unwise to dis-
pense with a pantry altogether and depend on one of
these dressers. Have a pantry always, even if you are
compelled to do away with the parlor of the house to
make room for it.
There should be a large table in the kitchen, or two,
if there be room enough ; but if there is to be no sep-
arate laundry and the stationary tubs are in the kitchen,
the top of the tubs forms a very handy table for dishes,
28 THE PA TTERN COOA'-BOOA'.
etc. A small table covered with zinc and placed near the
range is a most convenient addition to the kitchen furni-
ture, as hot dessert, cake, pie, etc., can be placed on it to
cool. There should also be a good-sized shelf or mantel,
upon which the clock, match-safe, candle-sticks, etc., may
be kept.
Screen the windows and the door in summer, or
swarms of flies will enter, rendering it impossible to keep
the room clean and creating a personal annoyance that
must be endured to be fully appreciated.
In the pantry under the shelves should be built a long
bin divided into compartments for holding wheat flour,
corn meal, graham, etc. This is a most satisfactory
arrangement, for often a space that is large enough for
the purpose would be found entirely too small to contain
a barrel of flour.
CARE OF THE KITCHEN AND THE UTENSILS.
" A place for everything, and everything in its place "
is a motto to be followed in the kitchen more than in any
other part of the house ; for there are so many utensils,
dishes, etc., that confusion is certain to reign supreme
unless order is the first thought all day and every day.
But even if the worker is careful, there should be one
day set apart for general cleaning and putting in order
of everything pertaining to the room. The entire wood-
work should be cleaned at least once a month, and
around the tubs and wherever the strain of the work is
the greatest it should be cleaned every week.
The sink requires special attention. Wash it daily
with soap and water, always giving a final rinse with
scalding water. Set a regular time for this cleaning, just
THE KITCHEN. 29
after the dinner work is out of the way being obviously
the most convenient. The drain pipe of the sink should
be carefully cleansed once every ten days with washing
soda. To prepare a cleansing agent for this purpose,
pour three quarts of boiling water on a pound of washing
soda, and when the latter is dissolved, bottle for use.
Pour a pint of this liquid down the drain-pipe when it
needs purifying; the soda unites with the grease and
keeps the pipe free from deposits.
Tinware, granite-ware and frying pans will need fre-
quent scouring, and nothing is of greater comfort in the
kitchen for this work than a generous supply of Sapolio.
Bristol brick may be used for this purpose, but scarcely
with as admirable results for the labor expended.
Woodenware that has been washed should never be dried
before the fire, as the wood will warp and crack when
thus exposed to the heat. Steel knives should be bright-
ened with Sapolio. The refrigerator should be carefully
cleansed throughout once a week and a wire run through
the drain pipe to dislodge anything that may have
dropped into it. It is very unwise to have this pipe con-
nected with the sewer or the drain of the house, as such
an arrangement offers a constant menace to the health of
the household. The range or stove should be cleaned
once a fortnight, all the flues being swept out, the top of
the oven brushed off, and the stove pipe sharply tapped
to loosen any soot that may have formed.
Above all, the kitchen should be plentifully supplied
with towels. There should be three kinds : some of crash
for the hands, which can be made to go over a roller ;
some of soft crash for dishes and kitchen implements gen-
erally ; and some of unbleached cotton for use about the
30 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
range in lifting hot utensils. These cotton towels are
much more convenient than the padded holders com-
monly in use, as they can be easily washed, and the
heated dishes can be handled much more safely with
them.
UTENSILS NEEDED.
The young housekeeper will, we believe, gladly
receive some advice in the matter of choosing the uten-
sils needed to produce a well-furnished kitchen. In buy-
ing tinware (and, indeed, any article for equipping
this part of the house) it is economy to purchase the
best in the beginning. It is a well-known fact to
experienced housekeepers that American wares for the
kitchen are not nearly so durable as English. Of
course, the latter cost more here, but if, when furnishing
the kitchen, a little more money be expended in this
way, it will never be regretted, since the best wares last
fully twice as long as those of poorer quality. A superior
quality of tinware will last a life-time, while the cheap
varieties will scarcely survive a year's usage. The best
i in has a smooth and rather dull-looking surface and
keeps its shape until worn out ; its surface will stand
great heat without becoming rough, but when the poorer
tin is thus exposed, the coating melts, producing a rough
surface that is difficult to clean, and to which the food
clings until it burns. The utensils should all be made
of XX tin, and the bread and cake pans, when not made
of iron, should be of the XXXX quality.
The surface of the iron-ware for the kitchen becomes
smoother with use, but iron utensils of poor quality are a
great annoyance and can never be relied upon to attain
THE KITCHEN. 3 [
this desired smoothness. Before iron-ware is used, it
should be washed out and dried perfectly. The inside
should then be rubbed with fat or oil that contains no
salt, and be allowed to remain thus greased, for six or
eight hours before washing again. Place the utensil on
the fire and heat it gradually, after which wash it
thoroughly with soap and water and rub with a dry towel.
This process will smooth the surface, if carefully done.
Iron comes next to copper in the matter of retaining
heat, although it is far below the latter metal in this
respect. Copper utensils are not much used for two
reasons their weight and the danger of poisoning. Cop-
per requires constant inspection and care and does not
find favor in the eyes of housekeepers generally. It may
be cleaned with sour milk and salt.
Granite-ware is most commonly used nowadays, being
preferred on account of its lightness and cleanliness ;
and if its cost can onty be brought to a more reasonable
figure, it will eventually displace all other varieties of
cooking utensils. In selecting this ware, if a piece does
not seem firm in every part, or if there is a flaw in the
enamel, reject it, for the granite will chip and crack.
Granite-ware will not endure rough treatment, but with
care, it will last a long time.
Two lists of kitchen utensils are here given, each being
very complete in itself. One, which is called by the
house supplying it the "one hundred dollar outfit,"
includes everything needed in the kitchen and is sold for
one hundred dollars. The other is the "twenty-five dollar
outfit," the cost for the articles furnished amounting to
that sum. For those who cannot afford the costlier out-
fit, the less expensive one will be found very complete,
THE PA Tl^ERN COOK-BOOK.
List No. i, $100.00.
Step Ladder ................... $2.15
Clothes Horse ................. 1.50
" Line, 50 Yds ____ . ....... i.oo
3 Doz. Clothes Pins .......... . . 20
Skirt Board .................... 70
Ironing Table .................. 5.00
Zinc Top Kitchen Table ....... 4.50
Dish Drainer .................. 25
Water Bucket .................. 20
Rolling Pin .................... 25
Potato Masher ................. 8
Vegetable Slicer ............... 35
Clothes Wringer ............... 5.00
Wash Bench ................... i.oo
Cedar Wash Tub ............... i.oo
" ................ 1-25
" ................ 1.5
Wash Board .................... 40
Flour Bucket ................... 5
Salt Box ....................... 40
Nest Boxes ..................... 4
Coffee Mill ..................... 1.25
Wooden Spoons ................ 27
Soap Cup .......... ............ 5
Oval Iron Boiler, Lined ........ 1.70
Muffin Pan ..................... 9
Roasting Pan ----- ............ 85
Bread Pans .................. 80
Fry Pan ....................... 38
Omelette Pan
Garbage Can
Tea Kettle
ate Cook Pot
Ag
Sauce-Pan .............
Farina Boiler ...........
Pudding Pan ...........
Colander ...............
Coffee Pot .............. 1. 15
Tea Pot ................ 90
Tin Pie Plates ............... 15
" Jelly Cake Plates .......... 15
Butter Kettle .................. 85
Basin ....................... . 25
Turk's Head ........ ......... 35
Wire Broiler ................... 50
Iron Spoons, assorted .......... 24
Wash Boiler, Copper Bottom. . . 2.25
Toaster ........................ 5
Radish Grater ................. 8
Chain Dish Cloth .............. 10
Croquette Mould .............. 30
Nutmeg Grater ................ 3
Set Skewers ............. . ...... 20
Flour Dredge .................. 12
Sugar " ..................... 12
Pepper " ..................... 3
Tin Cup ........................ 5
Dish Pan,., .................... 50
Graduated Measure $ 15
Cake Turner 12
Dipper 5
Oyster Broiler 50
Egg Beater 25
EggWhip 6
Skimmer 7
Scoop 5
Cake Cutter 3
Tea Strainer 5
Coffee Strainer 12
Fish Boiler 2.85
Waffle Iron i.oo
Wire Vegetable Boiler 22
Soap Stone Griddle i.oo
Pudding Boiler 75
Jelly Mould 50
Melon Mould 55
Soup Strainer, 85
Dust Pan 20
Dust Brush 40
Bread Box 80
Cake ;' 75
Sugar Can 75
Coffee Canister 18
Tea " 15
Spice Box 70
Crumb Tray and Brush . . 60
Japanned '1 rays i.io
Mincing Knife 18
Bread Knife 35
Butcher Knife 20
Set Sad Irons 1.40
Polishing Iron
Ice Pick
Egg Poacher
Hatchet
Meat Saw
Tack Claw '.
Set Scales and Weights . . .
Stove Brush
Package Stove blacking
Dish Mop
Steamer.
Oyster Fry
Cleaver
80
12
25
40
40
15
1.65
35
5
12
50
1.25
60
Hanging Safe .......... ........ 4.00
Set Table Mats ............... 85
Market Basket ................. 80
Clothes " ................ 1.50
Knife Box ..................... 40
Meat Board .................... 25
Broom ......................... 25
Coal Scuttle .................... 50
Coal Shovel ................... 8
Poker .......................... 5
Paring Knife .................. 10
Family Nail Box .............. 10
Refrigerator ..... ........... 15-75
$100,00
THE KITCHEN.
33
List No. 2, $25.00.
i Wash Tub .................... $ 55
i Wringer
i Wash Board
Yds. Clothes Line
3 oz. Pins
5 s
Doz.
2 Clothes Props ................
i Horse ................
i Ironing Board .................
i Step Ladder ...................
i Kitchen Table .................. 1
i Coffee Mill .....................
i Rolling-Pin ....................
i Potato-Masher ................
i Pie Board ......................
i Radish Grater .................
i Slaw Cutter ...................
i Meat Board ....................
i Flour Bucket ..................
i Water ..................
i Wooden Spoon .................
i Ash Sieve ......................
i Tea Kettle ...... ...............
i Round Iron Boiler, Lined .....
i Oval " .....
i Round Sauce-Pan, " .....
i Coal Scuttle ...................
i Roasting Pan ..................
i Broom .........................
i Chamois .......................
i Griddle .......................
i Frying Pan ....................
i Bread " ....................
i Waffle Iron ...................
i Tin Coffee-Pot .................
i ' Tea " .................
i Tea Strainer ...................
i Coffee " ...................
i Scoop ..........................
i Ladle ..........................
i Skimmer .......................
i Spice Box ......................
25
i Coffee Canister ................ $ 10
i Tea Canister ................... 10
i Japanese Tray ................. 12
i Crumb Brush and Tray ........ 45
i Dust-Pan ...................... 9
i " Brush ........ ,- ; ........... 20
i Bread Box ......... ? ........... 60
i Market Basket ................ 60
i Pudding Pan ................. 12
i Cake Cutter .................... 3
i Wash Boiler ................... 55
i Tin Kettle ..................... 9
i Dish-Pan ...................... 20
i Flour Sieve .................... 15
i " Dredge .................. 5
i Pepper Box .................... 3
i Iron Fork ...................... 5
i " Spoon .................... 6
i Scrub Brush ................... 12
i Set Skewers ................... 20
i Chain Dish Cloth .............. 5
xEggWhip ..................... 5
i Nutmeg Grater ................ 3
i Apple Corer ................... 5
i Butter Kettle .................. 15
i Gem Pan ...................... 15
i Colander ....................... 18
i Broiler ......................... 20
i Toaster ........................ 5
1 Tin Cup ....................... 4
2 Pie Plates ..................... 10
i Basin .......................... 12
1 Paring Knife .................. 5
2 Flat Irons ...... ................ 65
i Hatchet ........................ 40
i Mincing Knife ................. 18
i Tack Claw ............. ....... 7
i Ice Pick ....................... 9
6 Knives and Forks ............. 60
i Can Opener .................... 8
i Flat Iron-Stand ................ 5
i Butcher Knife ................. 20
i Bosom Board ......... ......... 25
$25.00
A dish-drainer is a great convenience in the kitchen.
If the sink is too small to hold both the dish pan and
the drainer, a dripping pan should be set under the
drainer. A sink-rack made of slats of wood on which to
place the dish-pan when in use is a necessity.
The modern potato-masher is a great improvement on
the old wooden pounder. The potatoes should be sea-
3
34
THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
soned after being put through the masher the first time ;
they should then be re-heated and pressed through into the
DISH-DRAINER.
serving-dish. They should not be smoothed nor patted
down before being sent to table, as that
would greatly diminish their lightness. The
masher or strainer here illustrated is quite
inexpensive, costing only twenty-five cents ;
and it can be used in many ways for
crushing berries, in powdering the yolks of eggs, etc.,
etc., the method of doing which is described further on.
There are many dif-
ferent kinds of vege-
table cutters. They
are made of tin, and
a set of graded sizes
and shapes can be
purchased. They are
very useful. The cups
or ends of figures A
and B are pressed into
the vegetables, a n d
The cutter A will make
POTATO-MASHER.
then given a turn around.
THE KITCHEN.
35
little potato balls one inch in diameter, which are
called potatoes "a la Parisienne" when fried. The
cutter shown at figure B will cut oblong forms. The
cutters C, D, E and F may be used for cutting veg-
etables that have been previously sliced for the pur-
A
B
o
E O
VEGETABLE CUTTEKS.
pose and are intended for decorations or for soup.
These cutters can also be used- for cutting slices of
bread to fry, the shapes resulting being very attractive
COOKY,
BISCUIT,
DOUGHNUT
when served. There should also be biscuit cutters, one
large and one small ; these will answer for ginger-snaps
as well. Then a round and a fluted cooky-cutter will be
needed ; and if doughnuts are to be made, a double cut-
ter will be found of great assistance.
30 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Among the various knives needed in the kitchen, the
French fluted knife will be found a great convenience.
It cuts solid vegetables in a round, fluted shape.
FRENCH FLUTED
The French cook's knife is made of the best steel and
is easily kept sharp. It is very useful for boning. It
costs about eighty cents, but will, if properly used, last
for years in constant service.
FRENCH COOK S KNIFE.
This coffee-mill is one of the newest, and is easily
regulated to grind coarse
or fine, by means of a
thumb-screw on the side.
It is a little more expen-
sive than the common mill,
costing $1.75 ; but it is
manipulated more easily.
It can be held on the table
while in use.
The " bain-marie " pan
is an open vessel to be
filled with hot water and
placed on the back of the range ; several sauce-pans
or cups with handles are fitted in. and are intended to
COFFEE MILL.
THE KITCHEN.
37
hold sauces, entrees and other dishes that must be
served hot. The flavoring is not diminished when
articles are kept hot in this way.
MUFFIN-PAN.
THE BAIN -MARIE PAN.
A muffin-pan, for cook-
ing muffins or corn cakes,
should be made of iron,
and should be thoroughly heated before each using.
There are different depths for these pans, and a shallow
one is not advisable.
A measuring cup is a most necessary
article in the culinary department. Cups of
this kind are graded in two ways at the
quarter cupfuls and at the eighths.
Oysters cannot be properly broiled with-
out a separate utensil for the purpose. In the broiler
MEASURING GUI'.
OYSTER-BROILER.
here shown the wires are so close together that the
oysters cannot slip into the fire.
THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
The Dover egg-beater, than which no better is made,
may seem a luxury to many who do not possess one, but
as they cost but twenty-five cents, they are within the
EGG-WHIP.
means of the most economical. The egg-whip here pic-
tured is used simply to whisk the eggs to thin them,
without beating them light.
This kettle is used for boil-
ing fish. It is half filled
with water, and the fish is
laid on the rack and sub-
merged. The rack can be
removed when the fish is
done, all danger of break-
ing the latter being thus
avoided. The fish should be drained a moment over a
pan or kettle before being removed from the rack.
The waffle-iron finds a place in nearly every kitchen.
It should not be on a frame that lifts it too high from the
fire, and it should fit the stove, if possible, otherwise it
will be a source of great annoyance.
Through the winter griddle-cakes are eaten in every
household, so the choice of the griddle on which to fry
FISH-KETTLE, WITH RACK.
THE KITCHEN.
39
them should be given some thought. The soap-stone
griddle does not require oiling ; there is, consequently,
no odor or smoke from cooking the cakes. There are,
however, two objections to this griddle ; it takes a very
WAFFLE-IRON.
long time to heat through, and the cakes are not as
tender as when fried on an iron griddle. Many prefer
the little crispness that the oiling of the griddle imparts
to the cakes. In buying an iron griddle, chose one of
medium thickness.
MEAT-REST.
A meat-rest should be included among the utensils.
Such a rest can be purchased in any size to fit the roast-
ing pan. Roasting should not be done without a rack.
This raises the meat sufficiently from the bottom of the
pan to cook it evenly, and, by keeping the meat out of
4 o
THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
the juice and gravy, prevents it being boiled instead of
roasted.
A braising-pan is here represented. The food to be
braised is put into the lower pan and the lid covered with
_^ _____ hot coals. Recipes for brais-
ing are given in the body of
the book.
Bread pans should not be
too large. They should be
made of Russia iron and will
last a lifetime. Roasting pans
are also best when made of
this iron. The first cost is nearly twice as great as that
of the ordinary iron pan, but the durability of this metal
more than pays for the extra expense and it is much
lighter to handle than the common variety.
BRAISING-PAN.
WIRE BASKET.
The frying-
pan, with basket
for frying oys-
ters, croquettes,
etc., is a very
useful article.
The support for the basket can be taken out, thus leav-
ing an ordinary frying-pan. A pan of this kind, nine
inches in diameter, costs one dollar. A basket made
of wire may also be obtained for frying in this way, but
FRYING-PAN.
THE KITCHEN.
the work is then done in a kettle of fat without the use of
a frying-pan. Frying-pans are best made of iron. The
granite-ware pans are not satisfactory, as food is very
likely to burn in them, unless a large amount of fat is
used, which is not always possible or economical.
There should also be a short-
handled frying-pan that can be put (
in the oven if necessary, and an-
other with a long handle.
FRYING-PAN.
IRYING-1'AN.
An omelet pan, with sloping sides, is a requisite if the
best results are desired in making omelets.
IY1NG-PAN.
One of the latest of
useful articles for the
kitchen is the "salad-
washer." The lettuce is
placed inside, and the
washer is then closed and
well shaken, all the water
that may cling to the salad being thus thrown off. Salad-
washers may be had in four sizes, from seven to ten
SALAD-WASHER.
THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
inches in diameter, and the smallest size costs seventy-
five -cents.
Scales are a necessity in every well-regulated kitchen.
There are two varieties which are about equally desirable
the old-fashioned " counter " scales and the " dial "
scales. The dial scales can be adjusted to the weight of
the vessel the article is weighed in by means of a simple
screw at the top, and on this account are very conven-
ient.
Moulds for jelly, blanc-manges,
ice-creams, etc., come in many dif-
ferent forms. It is not best to at-
tempt too fancy a form for ice-
cream, as the result is apt to be very
disappointing ; none but an expe-
rienced packer can use elaborate moulds to advantage.
BLANC-MANGE OK JELLY
MOULD.
DIVIDUAL JELLY MOULDS.
We give a simple form that the least skilful need not
fear to attempt.
Moulds for puddings are shown in pretty designs in
earthenware. The best tin moulds are quite expensive,
THE KITCHEN. 43
but jelly and cream cool much more quickly in tin than
in earthen ware.
Individual jelly moulds are not very expensive when
purchased by the dozen, and a very pretty dessert may
be produced by their use.
PUDDING MOULD.
ROUND MOULD, HOLLOW CENTER.
The round mould, with open
center for steamed p u d-
dings, renders expeditious cooking a possibility, as the
steam can penetrate the center as well as the sides.
The round mould for pudding made of corn starch or gela-
tine has a hollow center. When the pudding is turned from
the mould, and the center or hollow filled with strawber-
ries or whipped cream, a very attractive dish is the result.
There should be a plentiful supply of kettles in every
kitchen ; and one should be set
apart for boiling ham, as the odor is
so lasting.
The farina kettle, or double-
boiler, as it is sometimes called, is
one of the most useful of kitchen
utensils. It can be used for cook-
ing many preparations, such as
boiled custards, cream for filling
in layer cake, blanc-mange and any
dish that is made of heated milk. FARINA KETTI - E -
Water is placed in the lower kettle and the milk in the
upper one ; an'd the latter, being heated by the steam
44
THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
from the boiling water, cannot possibly be scorched.
The price of this boiler is small, one that has a two-quart
capacity for the upper kettle costing seventy-five cents.
A small family will only need the quart size for the
upper kettle.
A kettle or saucepan in which
to cook mush for breakfast,
without danger of scorching,
has been very recently in-
vented. Oatmeal or. cracked
wheat is served on nearly all
breakfast tables nowadays, and
it is no easy matter to cook
either of these cereals with the ordinary kettle, both
requiring to be stirred almost constantly to prevent their
sticking to the bottom of the vessel. This kettle, there-
fore, is gladly welcomed. The part A is made of good
tinware, while B is of copper ; and the space B is solidly
filled with asbestos, the inside bottom of the kettle being
where A and B meet. In this way the food is held at
least an inch from the top of the stove or fire. Such a
kettle of two-quart size costs seventy cents.
The dust-pan here shown is an improvement on the old
THE KITCHEN.
45
style. The foot is placed on the section marked A and
the dust is taken up without stooping on the part of the
sweeper. This dust-pan costs thirty cents.
A wire soap-bracket should
hang over the kitchen sink in a
convenient position; and a.
soap shaker will use up all the
small bits of soap. The latter
costs fifteen cents.
Those who have not a re-
frigerator in which to pre-
serve food will find a set of
wire screens most useful.
Food can then be placed on the cellar floor (if the house
SOAP-BRACKET.
SOAP-SHAKER.
is fortunate enough to have a good cellar) and safely
covered with the screens.
LARDING AND TRUSSING NEEDLES.
Larding needles must be provided if larding is to
be done. These have split ends, like a cleft stick, to
receive strips of fat meat.
Trussing needles, or skewers, are also very convenient.
A paste jagger for cutting pie-crust or doughnuts will
be found of great utility.
4 6
THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Fish scissors are needed. They should be carefully
washed and dried after each using and placed just where
I'ASTE JAGGER.
they can be found when needed again.
A whip or " syllabub " churn is a
and useful article. It costs but eigh-
and is made of tin. The handle, A,
very cheap
leen cents
placed
is
WHIP CHCKN.
E inside the tube B, and the whole is then
dipped into a bowl of sweetened and fla-
vored cream. By churning and pressing it
through the perforated holes at the bottom
of the tube, the cream soon becomes a
light froth, which is skimmed off the top as
soon as formed ; and the churning is con-
tinued until all the froth possible is obtained.
MARKETING.
" But yet I run before my horse to market."
SHAKSPERE.
FEW housekeepers know how to market wisely and
economically. They trust the butcher's opinion entirely
or else give their orders to the market-boy, and then are
obliged in consequence to take what is sent and to pay
the weekly or monthly bill without knowing whether it is
correct or not. Circumstances are often such that
" order boys " are of necessity the only avenue of com-
munication ; but when this is the case, the mistress
should insist on a bill being sent with each purchase of
supplies and also that every article be weighed in the
kitchen, thus relieving the tradesman of any temptation
to give under weight.
In some cities it is the fashion to go to market, and
all ladies do so except those favored ones who can
employ servants enough to relieve them of all care of
the house and housekeeping. Skill and experience are
certainly required in purchasing meat, and it is our
endeavor here to give directions by which the inexpe-
rienced housewife may be aided in choosing good food.
MEAT
is the general term applied to the flesh of animals used
for food, and is of three classes: Meat, including beef,
47
48 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
veal, mutton, lamb and pork ; Poultry, including chick-
ens, geese, turkeys and ducks ; Game, including quail,
partridge, grouse, pigeons and other birds, venison and
any wild meat that is hunted in the forest or field.
Meat is in season all the year round, but certain kinds
are best at certain seasons. Pork is good only in
autumn and winter. Veal should be eaten in the spring
and summer. Venison is in season in the winter ; fowls
in autumn and winter ; lamb in the summer and fall, and
mutton and beef throughout the year.
Beef is considered by most people the best and most
nutritious of meat. An ox should be five or six years old
before it is killed, being then in its prime. Ox-beef is
the best. The meat is fine-grained, the lean being of
a bright red color, marbled throughout with fat, when the
animal is well-fed and of good breed. The fat should be
white, not yellow ; and the suet should also be white and
firm. Beef should never be lean that is, lacking in
the usual amount of fat ; for unless there is a good
quantity of fat, the meat will be tough and undesirable.
Heifer-beef is paler in hue than ox-beef and of closer
grain, the fat being white, and the bones, of course,
smaller. Bull-beef should always be avoided. It is dark
colored and coarse-grained, has very little fat, and
possesses a very strong, meaty smell. If when meat
is pressed with the finger it quickly rebounds, it is
prime ; but if the dent disappears slowly or not at all,
the meat is of inferior quality. Any greenish tints about
the fat or the bone, or any slipperiness of surface,
indicates that the meat has been kept too long and
is unfit for use, except by those who enjoy what is known
as a "high flavor."
MARKETING.
49
Meat is cut differently in different parts of the coun-
try, but the accompanying cut of an ox shows one way of
dividing it.
1. Sirloin.
2. Top or aitch-bone,
3. Rump.
4. Round.
5. Lower part of round
6. Veiny piece.
7. Thick flank.
8. Thin "
9. Leg.
10 Fore-rib (5 ribs).
11. Middle rib (4 ribs).
12. Chuck rib (3 ribs).
13. Shoulder.
14. Brisket.
15. Clod.
16. Sticking.
17. Shin.
Choose the ribs or the sirloin for roasting ; if the
former be selected, let them be the middle ribs. One rib,
unless the bone is taken out and the meat rolled and
stuffed, is too thin to be an economical cut, because much
is lost in cooking. In selecting sirloin, have it cut from
4
THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
what butchers call the " chump end," which has a
good under-cut. The tenderloin lies under the short ribs
and close to the back. It is considered by many to be
the choicest piece and can be purchased by itself, but
1. Loin, best end.
2. Loin, chump end.
3. Fillet.
4. Hind knuckle.
5. Fore knuckle.
6. Neck, best end.
7. Neck, scrag end.
8. Blade bone.
9. Breast, best end
10. Breast, brisket end.
CALF.
only at the larger markets. It is usually cut through
with the porterhouse and sirloin steaks. Of these the
porterhouse is generally preferred, and the short or small
porterhouse is the most economical. The coarse and
tough end of the large steaks may be used for soup. The
family that has to carefully consider the expense of meat
will find recipes farther on for preparing the cheapest
cuts so as to make a nutritious dinner at small cost.
MARKETING.
Veal is best when the calf is two or three months old ;
if over four months old, the flesh will be coarse. Veal
should be white and the kidney well covered with fat. If
the flesh is dark and hangs loosely about the bone, it
is not good. It should be dry and closely grained ; if
1. Leg.
2. Chump end of loin.
3. Best end of loin.
4. Neck, best end.
5. Neck, scrag end.
6. Shoulder.
7. Breast.
A saddle is the two loins undivided.
A chine is the two sides of the neck
undivided.
SHEEP.
moist and clammy, avoid it. The fillet, loin, shoulder
and best end of the neck are the roasting joints. The
breast is usually stewed, as is also the knuckle. A calf's
head is a great delicacy. Calves' feet are boiled and
stewed, or used for making jelly. Sweetbreads have
come to be looked upon as a great delicacy and are
therefore expensive. The calf is divided as illustrated in
cut.
THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK,
Mutton should be fat, and the fat should be clear, hard
and white. Wether-mutton is the best and may be known
by having a knob of fat on the upper part of the leg.
Mutton to be perfection should be from sheep five or
six years old. The flesh should be dark-colored, the
1. Leg.
2. Loin.
3. Shoulder.
4. Breast.
5. Ribs.
Forequarter, 3, 4 and 5 togeth*
LAMB.
color being an indication of age. The ribs may be used
for chops, but there is much waste, the bones taking up
half of the weight. The leg chops are most economi-
cal. All the joints of a sheep may be roasted, the sad-
dle being the best, and the haunch next. The leg and
neck are used for boiling. The scrag end an eco-
nomical piece is very sweet stewed and served with
rice. The sheep is cut up as illustrated in the engrav-
ing.
MARKETING.
53
.Lamb should be a year old ; and it is more digestible
than any other young meat. The flesh should be a pale
red and should be fat. Lamb is generally roasted or
broiled, the finest chops being from the loin.
Venison is best when from the female deer. The flesh
1. Haunch.
2. Neck.
3. Shoulder.
4. Breast.
DEER.
should be a reddish-brown, and the fat thick, clean and
close. This meat is more often eaten " high " than any
other variety.
Buy pork only when the butcher can be relied upon to
have good meat ; for diseased pork is of all meat the
most to be avoided. The fat should be firm, and the
lean white and finely grained. If the fat is full of small
kernels, the pig has been measly, and the meat is unfit
54
THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
for use. Pork should never be eaten during the warm
months. The pig is divided as illustrated below.
1. Spare-rib.
2. Hand.
3. Belly.
4. Fore-loin.
5. Hind-loin,
6. Leg.
PIG.
TO CHOOSE TURKEY.
They are in season in fall and winter and the old ones
have long hairs and the flesh is purplish where it shows
under the skin on the legs and back. When young they
are white and plump, with smooth black legs, and the
cock bird has a sharp spur. When fresh the eyes are
bright and full and the feet supple ; and the absence of
MARKETING. 55
these signs denotes age and staleness. Hen-turkeys are
inferior in flavor to the gobblers, but are smaller, plumper
and fatter.
FOWLS.
These are always in season. The old ones have long,
thin necks and -feet, and the flesh on the back and legs
has a purplish shade, the legs being rough and hard.
V^oung fowls have tender skin, smooth legs and comb, the
breast bone is soft and easily bent with the fingers, and
the feet and neck are large in proportion to the body.
Choose white-legged fowls for stewing and dark-legged
ones for roasting.
GEESE.
Young geese have yellow and supple bills and feet and
tender skin, and the breast is plump and the fat white.
An old goose is not fit for the table. It has red and
hairy legs.
DUCKS.
Young ducks feel tender under the wings, and the web
of the foot is transparent. Those are best that have
thick, hard breasts. The wild duck has reddish legs, and
the tame duck yellow ones.
FISH.
The eyes of fresh fish are bright, the gills of a fine,
clear red, the body stiff, and the smell not unpleasant.
Fish, in order to be palatable, must be eaten very soon
after being taken from the water. Chloride of soda will
56 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
restore fish that is not extremely fresh, but it is never so
good as when freshly caught.
OYSTERS.
If fresh, oysters will close forcibly on the knife when
opened. If the shell gapes in the least degree, the oyster
is losing its freshness ; and when the shell remains open
the oyster is dead.
HARES AND RABBITS.
When these animals are young and fresh the cleft in the
lip is narrow, the body stiff, and the claws smooth and
sharp. Old and stale hares and rabbits will present
indications the reverse of these. To ascertain whether a
hare is young or old, turn the claws sideways ; if they
crack the animal is young. The ears also should be
tender and should bend easily.
EGGS.
Shake the eggs, and if not altogether good, they will
rattle. Another test is to place them in a basin of water
if they lie on their sides, they are fresh, but if they turn
on end, they are not good.
VEGETABLES.
Vegetables should be crisp and fresh-looking.
APPLES. In choosing these, be guided by the weight,
the heaviest being the best ; and those should be selected
which, on being pressed by the thumb, yield to it with a
slight cracking noise. Prefer large apples to small, for
the waste is not so great in peeling and coring them.
Apples should be kept in a dry place, and if convenient
should be laid on a straw bed, which is a great safeguard
against decay.
PLAIN DIRECTIONS.
" Not to know at large of things remote
From use, obscure and subtle, but to know
That which before us lies in daily life
Is the prime wisdom."
MILTON.
THE knowledge of how to properly cook meat is not
possessed by half the housewives in this country. The
finest cuts of meat are often provided and then utterly
ruined by the one preparing them for the table. This
is not due to a lack of interest on the part of the mother
of the family, but to the fact that she does not under-
stand the first principles of cooking ; and the result is
ruin to the meat and often to the health of the family as
well. A few principles cover the entire ground and can
be briefly explained without going into the chemistry of
meat at all ; and when these are once understood, the
housewife can readily apply them, much to her enlighten-
ment and to the advantage of those looking to her for
nutritious and well prepared food.
Meat, when properly cooked, should be juicy, well
flavored and as tender as possible. It is largely made up
of albumen and fibrine, and when these are exposed to a
degree of heat higher than the boiling point, the meat
becomes hard and indigestible. With the following facts
57
58 THE PA7"TERN COOK-BOOK,
well in mind, the young housekeeper need make no
error in the preparation and cooking of meat : First, heat
higher than the boiling point hardens and shrinks meat,
but when kept at the boiling point for a long time,
it will make the meat tender, provided there is plenty of
moisture. Second, meat to be roasted or boiled should
be exposed for the first fifteen minutes to a greater
degree of heat than the boiling point, so that the surface
of the meat may be crusted and hardened to keep in the
juices. Third, the heat must not be allowed to fall below
the boiling point while the meat is cooking, that tempera-
ture being necessary for the development of the flavor.
Thus we see that the meat must first be treated to a high
degree of heat, to close the pores of the surface, after
which it must be maintained uniformly at boiling point
(212) until the cooking is done.
ROASTING.
There are three modes of roasting before the coals,
under a sheet of flame in a gas stove, and in an ordinary
range or stove. The last named process is unanimously
conceded to be inferior to either of the others, but
the oven is always available while the first two are not,
unless special preparation has been made for the
work.
For roasting before the fire it is necessary to have the
range constructed for this purpose, and a tin screen with
a spit and jack to place Before the coals, on which to do
the work. Some of the roasters are arranged with a
spring-jack; the meat is placed on the spit and the
spring wound up, which sets the meat revolving slowly
before the fire. The meat should first be placed near
PLAIN DIREC TIONS. 5 9
the coals to quickly crust the surface, and then moved
back a little to cook through without burning. Baste
the meat frequently ; and if the roast is very large, it
should be surrounded with a buttered paper. Just before
the meat is done, it should be basted with a little butter,
then sprinkled with flour and placed nearer the fire to
brown. Sprinkle a little salt upon the roast, but not
until it is ready to serve, as salt draws out the juices.
The fire should be made ready some time before putting
in the meat, that trre coals may be bright and hot ; and
it should be strong enough to last through the roasting,
with possibly the addition of a little coal.
In roasting in a pan, the meat should be placed on a
meat rest, and thus raised from the bottom of the baking
pan. (This rest is described among the kitchen utensils.)
Dredge the meat with flour, salt and pepper it, and sprin-
kle a quantity of flour in the bottom of the pan. The
salt draws out the juices, but the flour unites with them,
making a paste that soon hardens and imprisons those
within the meat. When the flour in the pan is brown,
put in just enough water to cover the bottom. After the
meat has browned, it should be basted at least every ten
minutes, with the gravy in the pan, and then treated to
another light sprinkling of flour. The water in the pan
should be renewed frequently, but none should be added
during the last half hour, so that there will be nothing
remaining in the pan but oil and sediment. When the
meat is done, lay it on a warm platter, lift the meat-rest
from the pan, pour off the fat, and scrape the sediment
from the sides and bottom. Place the pan on the stove,
and add a cupful of hot water ; when this has boiled up
once, stir in a thickening composed of flour and water
60 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
rubbed to a thin paste, pouring in only a little of the
paste at a time so the gravy will not be too thick. Let
the gravy boil for two or three minutes to cook the flour,
stirring constantly ; then season with salt and pepper and
strain into a hot dish. The time required for roasting
meat is given in the cook's time-table.
BROILING.
is cooking directly over the hot coals. This is one of the
simplest forms of cooking meats, yet care, niceness
and skill are required to broil properly. The fire should
be bright red and nearly to the top of the fire-box, so that
the broiler may almost touch the fire ; but there should
be no flame. The wire broiler is much more easily man-
aged than the iron gridiron ; it can be turned quickly and
easily, and, if the fire is at too great a heat, can be easily
held away from it to allow the fire to cool down to the de-
sired point. Grease the broiler well with a bit of fat from
the meat, and place the thickest part of whatever is to be
broiled next to the middle of the broiler. Do not salt the
meat unless a sprinkling of flour is used at the same
time, as in roasting ; but the better way seems to be to
season when the meat is cooked, although cooks differ on
this point. Place the broiler as near the fire as possible,
and when the surface of the meat is seared, quickly
turn and crust the other side. If the fat that drips off
catches in a blaze, quickly remove the broiler until the
flame has died down, and throw a little salt on the fire to
clear it again. Keep turning the broiler almost con-
stantly until the meat is cooked. Never thrust a fork
into the lean part of meat that is broiling, as the juice is
thus started and much of it escapes. Cook ten -min-
PLAIN DIRECTIONS. 6 1
utes if the meat is an inch thick, so as to have it a fine
rare dressing. Butter well, and serve very hot. The
smaller and thinner the article to be broiled, the hotter
should be the fire ; and the larger the piece, the more
moderate should be the fire or the greater the distance at
which the meat should be held from the heat.
In broiling fish, buttered paper is generally first
wrapped around it to prevent burning. When it is
broiled without paper, rub the broiler well with butter
and have it slightly heated. To preserve the skin of
broiled fish entire, dip the fish, as soon as it has been
washed and cleaned, in vinegar for a second, dry it in a
cloth, and flour it.
Chops, bacon and birds, as well as fish, are often
broiled in paper. To broil in this way, proceed as fol-
lows : Take a large sheet of white letter-paper, and rub it
well with butter, to keep out the air. Season the chop or
bird with salt and pepper, place it near the center of the
paper, and fold the edges of the covering over several
times, pinching them together close to the meat. The
paper will char a long time before it blazes, if care be
taken not to break through the paper and thus admit the
air and let out the fat and juice that will have come from
the meat. The meat will be basted in its own juice. A
longer time is required for broiling in this way, but when
the paper is well browned, the meat is done. Birds to be
broiled are cut open and the inside laid to the fire
first.
Anything egged and crumbed should be well buttered
before broiling. The broiler should be covered with a tin
pan or a baking pan when pieces that require any length
of time to dress are to be broiled. In broiling a good-
62 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
sized chicken a great amount of care is required, and
really none but a professional can be sure of the result.
The amateur will be better pleased to broil the chicken
only long enough to give it a rich brown tone on all
sides, and then put it in a shallow pan or a frying-pan,
and finish it in a moderate oven.
Pan-broiling is broiling in a hissing hot frying-pan.
This way often has to be relied upon when wood is
burned instead of coal, the difficulty of securing a deep
bed of wood coals to broil over being not easily over-
come. Heat the pan very hot and rub across it once
with a bit of fat from the meat, to keep the latter from
sticking to the pan ; but do not leave any fat in the pan.
Sear the meat quickly on one side, then turn it carefully
(without piercing the lean of the meat) and brown the
other side before any juice escapes into the pan. Cook
about five minutes for meat an inch thick, if it be liked
dressed rare, turning it twice ; and serve very hot, after
seasoning with butter, salt and pepper. This is not fry-
ing or rather sauteing, but broiling on iron, and the
flavor of meat prepared in this way is excellent.
BOILING.
Salted meats, such as ham, corned-beef, salt tongue,
etc., should be put on the fire to boil in cold water, to
draw out the salt, and should be gently brought to the
boiling point and kept there, rapid boiling being carefully
avoided, as it hardens and ruins the meat. All other
meats should be plunged in boiling water at the first, and
when the water boils again (it will be cooled somewhat
when the meat is put in) skim it and keep it at the boil-
ing point for fifteen minutes ; then draw the kettle away
PLAIN DIRECTIONS. 63
from the fire, where it will be kept at just the bubbling
point, care being taken that the water never gets below
this heat while the meat is cooking. If these directions
are followed, every piece of boiled meat will be found
tender and juicy when done and will cut smoothly, while
meat that has been boiled rapidly will break into long
shreds when cut, and will be hard and tasteless.
Fish that is to be boiled should first be wrapped in
cheese-cloth, the cloth being pinned or tied together at
the lapping places ; the fish can thus be easily kept from
breaking. When done it should be lifted out by the
cloth and drained thoroughly before being placed on the
serving dish.
FRYING
is cooking by immersion in hot fat. The fat should be
deep enough to entirely cover the article to be cooked,
and as the same fat may be used many times, it is
not so extravagant to take such a quantity as some house-
keepers think. The careful cook saves all the fat that
can be collected from boiling meat of any sort, the fat
ends of steaks and mutton-chops, and from all other
sources of this kind. The fat should, however, be clari-
fied before using.
TO CLARIFY FAT,
place it on the stove in the frying-pan, and heat it slowly.
When the fat is melted, set it where it will simply
bubble, and keep it there until there is no motion and all
the sediment has fallen to the bottom of the pan. Then
drain and set away for use. Many persons object to the
odor of clarifying fat and, therefore, place the frying-pan
64 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
in the oven to melt the fat. This method is fully as suc-
cessful, but the oven should not be too hot, and it should
be left open to air after the pan has been removed.
After fat has been used a number of times, and has
become darkened, it may be cleared thus : Place the fat
in a kettle with about six times its quantity of hot water,
and boil twenty minutes. Turn the liquid into a large
pan and set in a cool place. When cold, the fat will be
found in a solid cake on the surface of the water, but
must then be clarified in the manner already described.
The secret of successful frying is to have the fat hot
enough to instantly harden the surface of the article fried
and thus prevent the fat soaking in. The fat
should be heated slowly, and when blue smoke arises
from the center of the liquid, drop a bit of bread into it j
if the bread browns in one minute, the fat is hot enough.
Only the experienced can know what is meant by the
words "hot fat" ; the unskilled in housekeeping will have
to learn by tests. The word " boiling " as applied to fat
is misleading, as it would imply a motion of the liquid.
When fat does not contain any foreign substances, there is
no motion to it at this degree of heat. The novice can
best tell by watching for the smoke to rise from the center
when the fat is hot enough. Coffee sprinkled on the
stove while frying is being done will disguise the unpleas-
ant smell, but it is a matter of taste which odor is to be
preferred.
The frying-basket is fast gaining a place in every
kitchen. After placing in the basket the articles to be
fried not, however, crowding them at all lower the
basket gently in the fat. When the food is cooked, lift
the basket, drain well, place in on a plate and remove the
PLAIN DIRECTIONS. 65
articles cooked. Lay them on brown paper that has
been spread in a warmed pan. If properly cooked they
will hardly stain the paper. Doughnuts, oysters, cro-
quettes of all kinds and many other dishes are cooked in
this way. The frying-basket is illustrated in the kitchen
utensils.
SAUTING.
The ordinary method of frying in a frying-pan with
only a little fat, doing one side at a time, is called by the
French " sauteing." To saute well the work must be
done quickly so as to keep the juices in the meat. It is
by many considered an economical mode of cooking
small articles of food of all kinds. Almost everything
that is sauteed is much better when fried by immersion.
Some people, however, are very unwilling to make the
change and persist in cooking in the old way, using a
little half-hot fat, which spatters over everything near it,
soaks into fish or' meat, and is often served as the only
gravy.
BRAISING.
This mode of cooking is most successful when the
meat is lacking in flavor or is tough. It is, when properly
done, the act of cooking by the action of heat above as
well as below the article cooked. The braising-pan (see
Kitchen Utensilsj has a deep cover, on which live
charcoal is placed. The pan is air tight, and vegetables
are generally placed with the meat, thus imparting any
particular flavor desired. Stock is added to the pan (if
there is any at hand) or water may be substituted.
Braising in the oven is much easier, and the result is
5
66 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK
practically the same. A deep pan with a close-fitting
cover will answer in place of the regular pan, but the
parts must not be soldered together.
LARDING.
This may seem to many a difficult and unnecessary
work. The only implement needed is a larding needle,
which costs fifteen cents and should last a lifetime. Any
one who can sew can lard, as it is merely sewing with
strips of fat bacon or pork, leaving the fat midway
through the meat. Lean and dry meats are much
improved by larding. Take a piece of salt pork two
inches wide and four inches long, and shave off the rind
the long way of the pork ; then cut the same way as the
rind two or three slices a quarter of an inch thick, cutting
only to the membrane which lies about an inch below the
rind, as this is the firmest part of the pork. Then cut
each slice across the width into strips a quarter of an inch
wide and thick and two inches long. Insert one end
of a lardon, as each of these pieces is called, in the
needle, and then with the point of the needle take
PL A IN DIRE C TIONS. 6?
up a stitch half an inch deep and one inch long
across the surface of the meat. Draw the needle through
and help the pork to follow by pushing it until partly
through ; then hold the end of the pork, and draw the
needle out, leaving the pork inserted in the meat, with
the ends projecting at equal lengths. Take up more
stitches one inch apart, in parallel rows, until the whole
surface is covered. A is a piece of meat to be larded,
and the numbers show the strips of bacon or pork as
inserted, 6 being the needle with the lardon attached
and partly drawn through.
BONING.
This is not difficult work. A small knife with a short
sharp, pointed blade is the only implement required.
The aim is to remove the flesh from the bone without
cutting it. To bone a fowl, cut off the neck and the legs
at the first joint, and cut the skin in a line down the mid-
dle of the back. Then, taking first one side of the cut in
your fingers and then the other, carefully separate the
flesh from the bones, sliding the knife close to each bone.
Unjoint the wings and the legs -at the body-joint and,
cutting close to the bones, draw them, turning the flesh
of the legs and wings inside out. When all the bones
are out, the skin and flesh can be readjusted and stuffed
into shape. The butcher will bone when so ordered.
The bones may be saved for soup.
STEAMING.
There are two ways of doing this work one in which
the meat is acted upon by direct contact with steam, and
68 f THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK,
the other in which the steam cooks without contact.
Steaming by contact is done by placing the article to be
cooked in a steamer, which is a round tin vessel with
a close-fitting cover and a perforated bottom; and
then setting the steamer over a kettle of water that is
kept at the boiling point all through the cooking. Pud-
dings are very delicious when steamed, and many meats
are warmed over in this way, with good results. The
other way of steaming is done in a cooking pot made
expressly for this purpose. It is an English invention,
and something very similar to the original is now
sold in this country. This vessel consists of two kettles
one set inside the other, the upper one containing
the meat and the lower one boiling water. The arrange-
ment for the action of the steam is such that the
latter surrounds the upper kettle, even the lid of which is
so constructed that the steam passes into it also, thus
cooking the meat in its own juices without the loss of any
nutritive properties.
PLAIN DIRECTIONS.
6g
Cook's Time-Table.
Roasting.
Beef, sirloin, rare, per lb., 8 to 10 min.
Beef, sirloin, well done, per lb., 12 to
15 min.
Beef, rolled rib or rump, per lb., 12 to
15 min.
Beef, long or short fillet, per lb., 20 to
30 min.
Chickens, per lb., 20 min.
Fish, if long and thin, per lb., 10 to 12
min.
Fish, if thick, per lb., 15 min.
Game, 30 to 40 min.
Goose, per ib., 18 to 20 min.
Grouse, 30 min.
Lamb, well done, per lb., 15 min.
Mutton, well done, per lb., 15 min.
Mutton, rare, per lb., 10 min.
Pork, well done, per lb., 25 min.
Pigeons, 30 min.
Small Birds, 20 to 25 min.
Turkey, per lb., 20 min.
Tame Duck, per lb., 40 to 60 min.
Veal, well done, per ib., 20 min.
Venison, per lb., 15 min.
Baking-
Bread, 40 to 60 min.
Biscuit, 20 to 25 min.
Beans, 4 to 6 hrs.
Braised Meat, 3 to 4 hrs.
Cookies, 10 to 15 min.
Custards, 15 to 20 min.
CAKE:
Sponge, 45 to 60 min
Plain, 30 to 40 min.
Layer, 6 to 8 min.
Fruit, 2 to 3 hrs.
Gems, graham, 30 min.
Gingerbread, 30 to 40 min.
Potatoes, 45 to 60 min.
PUDDINGS :
Bread, i hour.
Indian, 2 to 3 hrs.
Plum, 2 to 3 hrs.
Rice and Tapioca, i hour.
Rolls, 20 to 30 mm.
Scolloped Dishes, 20 to 30 min.
Boiling.
Asparagus, 20 min.
Beef, corned, 3 to 4 hrs.
Beets (young), 30 to 45 min.
Cabbage, 45 to 60 min.
Clams, 3 to 5 min.
Corn (green), 15 to 20 min.
Celery, 20 to 30 min.
Carrots, 30 to 45 min.
Cauliflower, 30 to 45 min.
Chickens, i to 2 hrs.
Coffee, 3 to 5 min.
Cod, per lb., 6 min.
Eggs (soft), 3 to 5 min.
Eggs (hard), 15 to 20 min.
Fowls, per lb., 25 min.
Fish (small), per lb., 6 min.
Fish, blue, per lb., 10 min.
Fish, bass, 10 min.
Ham, 4 to 5 hrs.
Haddock, per lb., 6 min.
Halibut, per lb., 15 min.
Hominy, i to 2 hrs.
Lamb, i to 2 hrs.
Macaroni, 30 to 45 min.
Oysters, 3 to 5 min.
Onions, 30 to 45 min.
Oatmeal, i to 2 hrs.
Potatoes, 20 to 30 min.
Peas, 15 to 20 min.
Parsnips, 30 to 45 min.
Rice, 15 to 20 min.
Squash, 20 to 30 min.
Spinach, 20 to 30 min.
Salsify, 45 to 60 min.
Salmon, per lb., 15 min.
Sweetbreads, 20 to 30 min.
Tomatoes, 15 to 20 min.
Turnips, 30 to 45 min.
Turkey, per lb., 25 min.
Tongue, smoked, 3 to 4 hrs.
Vegetables (Winter), i to 2 hrs.
Veal, perlb., 25 min.
Wheat-mush, i to 2 hrs.
Broiling.
Beefsteak, one inch thick, rare, 10 min.
Beefsteak, one inch thick, well done,
14 min.
Chops (Lamb), 4 min.
Chickens (small), 30 min.
Fish (thick), 20 min.
Fish (thin), 12 min.
Frying by Immersion.
Croquettes, i min.
Chops (breaded), 4 to 6 min.
Doughnuts, 3 to 5 min.
FISH :
Codfish Balls, i min.
Small fish, 2 min.
Smelts, 2 min.
Sliced Fish, 4 to 6 min.
Fritters, 3 to 5 min.
SOUPS.
" Man shall not live by bread alone."
BIBLE.
To make nutritious, healthful and palatable soup, with
flavors properly commingled, is an art which requires
much study and practice. There seems to be a general
impression that soups should be made from almost noth-
ing, but this is a great mistake, although it often happens
that a scanty allotment of material makes a delicate and
truly good soup, but in a very small quantity.
A supply of materials for soup-making should always
be kept on hand, such as dried sweet herbs (which may
be purchased already dried if the housewife does not
grow them herself), whole and ground spices and fresh
vegetables. In every pantry should be an earthenware
bowl for keeping the remnants of steaks, the bones
from roasts, etc., anything, in fact, that can be used
in soup. After breakfast or dinner the .wise and
careful housewife will look over the steaks, chops or
roast and put by themselves any pieces that can be again
used, either cold or for entre'es (made dishes). Then all
the bones, trimmings and the gravy will be put in the
earthenware bowl just mentioned, to be used for soup.
All remnants of cooked vegetables will be saved, and the
water in which has been boiled a leg of mutton, a fowl, a
70
SOUPS. fi
fresh tongue' or a piece of beef will be utilized as a basis
for soup. Soup may either be made with what is called
" stock " (when meat is the material used for founda-
tion), or it may be made without stock and is then
called soupe maigre.
SOUP WITH STOCK.
Under this head are included all the varieties of soup
made from beef, veal, mutton or poultry. In preparing
soup stock, the desired object is to obtain from the meat
all the nutritive and flavoring qualities contained in the
lean parts and in the bones. To accomplish this, the
meat should be wiped well and cut into small pieces ;
this is to expose as large a surface as possible to the
action of the heat and water. Break or saw the bones
also into small pieces, and soak both meat and bones in
cold soft water, allowing a quart of water to every pound
of soup material. Having soaked the meat half an hour
off the fire, place the kettle on the back of the range for
another half hour, after which the water can be slowly
heated to boiling. The kettle for soup-making should
have a tight 'cover, so that no steam can escape, or so
very little that it will not diminish the quantity of water
to any extent. The water should be soft, since hard
water hardens the meat and thus imprisons the juices.
No salt is added, for the same reason.
The scum that rises with the boiling contains nothing
unclean^ unless the meat has not been properly washed;
and although uninviting-looking it should not be skimmed
off, for it contains much that is nutritious. When the
liquid has fully reached the boiling point, set the kettle
back where it will gently bubble for about six hours.
72 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Now strain the stock, and throw away the meat and
scraps, because all the nutriment is, or should be, ex-
tracted, thus leaving the meat entirely unfit for further
use. Set the stock away to cool, as rapidly as possible,
and the next day remove the fat, which will have hard-
'ened on the top.
This is the simplest way of making soup-stock, and it
can be made the foundation for a plain or a rich soup, if
carefully prepared. There should not be more than a
quarter of a pound of bone to each three-quarters of a
pound of meat used. If a larger proportion of bone must
be used, make the allotment of water a little less than a
quart to every pound.
MEAT FOR STOCK.
Stock may either be made of only one kind of meat or
of several different kinds, and it often happens that the
greater the variety of meats employed the better the
flavor of the soup will be. Beef is the most valuable and
generally the cheapest meat to buy for soup. The parts
used for different kinds of soup are as follows : For
bouillon or consomme, the round, flank, shoulder or
brisket, and for a clear beef soup, the neck, cheek, leg,
shin or any scraggy part besides the bones. A shin or
leg will be a cheap piece to use. Butchers do not break
these parts into small enough pieces, for the leg should
be cut into at least eight or ten parts and washed well
in cold water. When the cheek and neck are used,
they should also be washed, but the round need not be ;
wipe it instead with a wet towel.
Poultry is of great value in making stock. A light,
white stock may be very economically produced thus :
SOUPS. 73
Clean and truss a fowl (skewer it), put it, breast down, in
as small a stew-pan as will hold it, cover it with cold
water, and heat it slowly to the boiling point. Let it
simmer until the fowl is tender, skimming off all the
scum, so that the soup will be light ; then take up the
fowl and set it away to cool. Strain the water, set it
away, and when cold, remove the fat that forms on the
top. The fowl can be used in many ways for breakfast
or luncheon or as an entree for dinner. This stock will
serve as the basis for cream soups and white sauces.
The fowl should not be more than two years old. Some-
times the feet of poultry are used in soup. They may be
cleaned by holding them with tongs over clear coals
until the skin cracks and curls, when it can be rubbed
off easily ; or they may be covered with boiling water for
a few minutes and then scraped free of skin and nails.
They give body to a soup. Mutton is not much used for
stock. When it is so used, the fat should all be stripped
off before the meat is placed over the fire, as it imparts
an exceedingly unpleasant flavor to the stock. The
neck, shoulders and feet are the parts generally used for
this purpose.
Any kind of game may be used for stock.
It is, of course, expensive if purchased for the purpose,
but the remnants left from roasts and broils will be found
to improve stock very much.
The flesh of young animals is rarely used, because it
does not produce nearly so fine a flavor as that of the
mature animal.
Veal and beef are most largely used and make deli-
ciously smooth soups. The best parts of veal are the
shin, head and feet.
74 THM PA TTERN COOK-BOO^.
TO CLEAR STOCK.
When the stock is cloudy and a clear soup is desired, it
may be clarified by the use of the whites and shells of
eggs, one being used for every two quarts of stock.
Beat the egg until light, but not dry, and put it and the
crushed shell in the cold stock. Place the stock over
the fire, heat it slowly to boiling, and boil ten min-
utes ; a thick scum will then have formed. Draw the
stock back on the range, and add half a cupful of cold
water. Now let it stand ten minutes, when strain
through a napkin, placing a fine wire sieve over the nap-
kin to catch the scum and shells, which would otherwise
clog the napkin.
TO SEASON STOCK.
In warm weather when stock is to be kept for five or
six days, it is better not to use vegetables for seasoning at
the time it is made, because vegetable juices ferment
quickly and sour the stock. It is 'safer to add the sea-
soning each day at the time the stock is cleared.
To season and clear two quarts of stock, allow
One white of egg and the shell.
Two blades of celery.
One bay-leaf.
One-half leaf of sage.
Three whole cloves.
Six pepper-corns.
One inch piece of cinnamon.
One small onion.
One-half large slice of carrot.
One sprig of parsley.
One small sprig of thyme.
One small sprig of summer savory.
so i r ps. 75
One small sprig of sweet marjoram.
One-half tea-spoonful of sugar
One and a half tea-spoonful of salt.
The herbs should be tied together. Place all this sea-
soning, the beaten white of egg and the crushed shell,
as in clearing soup, together in the soup ; heat very
slowly, and when the first bubbling appears, move the
kettle to the back of the range, where it will keep at the
boiling point, without really boiling. The kettle should
be closely covered to keep the soup from being reduced.
Let it stand in this heat for half an hour, and then strain.
In this case the egg is left in longer than when it is
simply desired to clear the soup, but the latter will only
be the clearer for the extra length of time.
When seasoning the soup, as first made, add the differ-
ent vegetables, spices, etc., as soon as the meat is put on
the range, unless otherwise directed by the following
recipe. A good authority on soup-making gives this
proportion of seasoning to be used : Allowing one quart
of water to every pound of meat and bone, add for every
quart allowed,
One even tea-spoonful of salt.
( Two pepper corns, or
I One quarter of a tea-spoonful of ground pepper.
Two cloves.
Two allspice berries.
One tea-spoonful of mixed herbs.
( One quarter of a tea-spoonful of celery salt, or
( One sprig of celery root.
One sprig of parsley.
One table-spoonful of each\ vegetable at hand.
The vegetables generally used are onion, carrots, tur-
nips and celery, and they should be cut into very small
;6 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
pieces that they may be accurately measured. Strain the
soup when the meat has boiled to rags, and set it away
where it will cool quickly ; then remove the cake of fat
that will form on the top. This fat excludes the air and
helps to keep the stock ; so if the soup is not to be used
at once, do not remove the fat until needed. No grease
or oil should ever appear upon soup.
If " a hasty plate of soup " is to be made and there is
not time to wait for the stock to cool, place whatever
may be needed in a shallow pan and set it in another pan
of cold water ice-water, if possible. This will soon
harden the fat. If there is not even time for this, take
off all the oil possible with a spoon and wipe the rest off
with soft tissue paper.
Still another method consists in straining the soup
several times through a fine napkin that has been rinsed
in cold water ; the grease will adhere to the cloth.
With this, seasoned stock for a basis, an endless variety
of soups may be made. This stock will be sufficiently
clear for any ordinary soup, but for clear amber soup the
egg must be used for clarifying. When soup is made
from stock and rice, sago, tapioca, macaroni or anything
of a similar nature, except vermicelli, the stock should not
be wasted by boiling the added substance in it long
enough to cook it ; instead, cook this matter separately
and, having drained it thoroughly, add it to the soup.
Vermicelli cooks in five minutes, and is, therefore, an
exception ; it should be crushed in the hands as it is
dropped into the kettle.
THICKENING FOR STOCK.
When thickening is needed for a clear soup, arrow-root,
SOUPS.
77
corn starch or fine ground tapioca should be used,
decided preference being given the arrow-root. When
no possible trace of thickening is desired, this will be by
far the most satisfactory : Allow a table-spoonful of
arrow-root to each quart of stock, wetting the arrow-root
until smooth with a little of the liquid ; and boil
slowly for half an hour. Corn starch gives a little
cloudiness to the soup, but it is used in the same propor-
tion as arrow-root. Tapioca in the same proportion
is sprinkled into the soup, which should be boiling hot,
and should boil ten minutes after. This leaves small
grains in the soup, which to many are not objectionable.
Cream soups are thickened very delicately with the
yolks of eggs, two yolks being allowed to a quart of soup.
The yolks are beaten thoroughly and thinned with a little
cold milk before being added to the soup, which should
be served after only a moment's boiling.
COLORING FOR STOCK. -
To color soup brown take equal parts of flour and but-
ter and brown them in a frying-pan, stirring constantly to
prevent burning ; when well browned, add to the soup.
A piece of bread toasted very brown, but in no case
burned, may be simmered in the soup for ten minutes,
serving to give it a darker color.
Many preparations are obtainable for coloring soups,
such as soup paste, beef extract and caramel. The last
is most frequently used and is easily made at home.
Melt a cupful of sugar, either white or brown, with a
table-spoonful of water in a frying-pan, stir until of a
dark brown color, add a cupful of boiling water, stir for
ten minutes and cool and bottle for use. Many
7 8 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
housewives keep this caramel always ready for use ;
it may also be used for flavoring custards and pudding
sauces, coloring jelly, etc.
Spinach greens, which some professional cooks use for
coloring soup, is made thus : Pound the uncooked
spinach well, adding a few drops of water ; then place
the whole in a cloth, squeeze the juice through, and put
it over a good fire. When the liquor looks curdy, take it
off, and strain through a sieve. What remains on the
sieve is the coloring matter, and the juice that is strained
off is not used.
TO BE SERVED IN SOUP.
Clear soup is much improved by dropping into the
tureen before serving a number of poached eggs that
have been cooked in salted water and neatly trimmed
around, one egg being provided for each plate. Slices of
lemon are sometimes added just before serving the soup,
one slice for each one at table ; or the same number of
yolks of hard boiled eggs may be dropped into the soup.
Fried bread may, if desired, be served with soup. This
is made by cutting neat slices of bread half an inch
thick, trimming off the crusts, and dividing the slices into
half-inch cubes, which are then placed in a frying basket
and plunged into hot fat ; they should brown at once.
These cubes may be prepared some time before they are
needed and set away for use. The hot soup is poured
over them when served. Crisped crackers are often
served with vegetable soups and oyster stews and in fish
chowders. They are first buttered and then browned
in the oven, with the buttered side up.
A great many different kinds of fried and baked balls
SOUPS. 79
are made to be served in soup, and the varieties are
here given.
FORCE-MEAT BALLS.
One cupful of any kind of cooked meat.
One salt-spoonful of salt.
One salt-spoonful of thyme.
One-half salt-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of lemon juice.
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Yolk of one raw egg.
A few drops of onion juice.
Chop the meat very fine, and add the seasoning ; beat
the yolk of the egg and stir it into the meat ; then make
the mixture into balls the size of nutm'egs, place them in
a soup plate and sprinkle with flour, shaking the plate
until the balls are all floured. Place the butter in a
frying-pan, and when it is brown, drop in the balls, and
shake the pan occasionally until they are brown.
PROFITEROLES FOR SOUP.
One gill of water.
Two gills (scant) of flour.
One-half gill of butter.
Two eggs.
Heat the water to boiling in a small frying-pan, and
put in the butter, and when the liquid boils again, add
the flour, turning it in all at one time. Beat the mixture
well for two or three minutes, being careful not to burn
it ; then turn it into a bowl and set away to cool. When
cold, add the eggs, one at a time, and beat the whole
80 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
thoroughly at least ten minutes. Butter a cake-pan very
lightly, and drop the mixture into it in tiny balls. Bake
ten minutes and set away until time to serve the soup ;
then place the balls in the tureen after the soup, and
serve at once.
EGG BALLS.
Five eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-tenth tea-spoonful of pepper.
Boil four of the eggs twenty minutes, and mash the
yolks to a smooth paste in a bowl ; then add the salt
and pepper, and the other egg well beaten. Shape the
mass into tiny balls, roll them in flour, and fry brown in
the frying-pan with a little butter, tossing them about
while frying to prevent them sticking to the pan. They
may be made some time before they are needed.
BOUILLON.
This soup is served as a first course at luncheons and
at evening parties in bouillon cups, which are like large
coffee cups ; or it may be served in coffee or tea cups.
It may be made with or without vegetables, the latter
method being the most common. Recipes are given
for both, the quantities named being sufficient for ten
persons.
BOUILLON (WITHOUT VEGETABLES).
Six pounds of beef and bone.
Two quarts of water.
Salt and pepper.
Cut the meat in small pieces, saw the bones apart,
SOUPS. 8 1
and, adding the cold water, heat slowly and simmer
five hours in a tightly covered soup kettle. Then strain
through a fine sieve, season to taste, and when cold,
remove the fat that has formed. Should there be more
than ten cupfuls, reduce to that quantity. To be served
hot.
BOUILLON (WITH VEGETABLES).
Five pounds of round of beef (no bone).
Two and a-half quarts of water.
One-half of a large onion.
One-half slice of carrot.
One-half slice of turnip.
Eight pepper-corns.
Three cloves.
Two eggs (whites only).
One and a-half inch piece of cinnamon.
One and a-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One sprig of parsley.
One sprig of thyme.
One sprig of summer savory.
Two small bay-leaves.
One leaf of sage.
One and a-half stalks of celery.
Having removed every particle of fat from the meat,
cut off a pound of the lean and set it aside ; then cut the
remainder into small pieces, cover with the water, heat
slowly, and, when boiling, move back on the range where
it will keep at the bubbling point for six. hours. At the
end of this time add all the seasoning, having the herbs
tied in a muslin bag ; simmer one hour, remove from the
fire, strain, and set away to cool. The next morning remove
any fat that may have collected on the stock. Chop very
fine the pound of meat that was reserved, and place it in
the soup on the fire, beating the whites of eggs at the
6
82 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
same time and adding them, with the shells, while the
soup is yet cool. Heat slowly, and when bubbling set
the soup back, tightly covered, and keep it at this degree
of heat for one hour. Now add salt, if necessary, and
strain through a napkin ; the soup is then ready to
serve.
AMBER SOUP (CONSOMM6).
This is served at almost all company dinners. It is a
light soup and, therefore, a wise choice.
Four pounds of the shin of beef.
( Four pounds of knuckle of veal, or
\ Three pounds of fowl.
Four quarts of water.
Two ounces of lean ham or bacon.
Six cloves.
Six pepper corns.
One bouquet of herbs.
One table-spoonful of salt.
Three onions.
One carrot.
One turnip.
Two stalks of celery.
Two sprigs of parsley.
Three eggs (whites and shells).
One salt-spoonful of celery seed.
One lemon (rind and juice).
Two table-spoonfuls of tomato ketchup.
Cut the meat and break the bones into small pieces, re-
serving one pound of the beef. Place the balance on
the fire with the water, and simmer six hours. Add the
vegetables and spices to cook the last two hours, having
first fried the vegetables in hot fat ; also brown the
pound of beef set aside, and add it with the vegetables,
When the soup has cooked six hours, strain it, and
set away to cool. Next morning remove the fat that
has formed and add the well beaten whites of the eggs
and the shells, and also the celery seed, lemon, salt and
pepper. Heat slowly to boiling, and cook ten minutes.
Strain through the finest sieve, add more salt if necessary,
and heat again before serving. This soup is more often
served clear than otherwise, but many cooks add boiled
rice, spaghetti, macaroni or pearl barley just before
serving. Whatever is added in this line is" cooked in
a separate stew-pan, as the soup would be too much
diminished in quantity if this thickening were boiled in it
until clone.
JULIENNE SOUP.
This soup is served with the vegetables in it.
Two quarts of stock.
One pint of turnip.
One pint of carrot.
One pint of celery.
One pint of fine shredded lettuce.
* One gill of sorrel.
Four table-spoonfuls of butter.
Cut the vegetables in slices or in fancy shapes with
vegetable cutters, and put them in a frying-pan with the
butter. Set the pan over a quick fire for a few minutes,
tossing the vegetables about until they are covered with
a thin glaze, and being careful they do not burn. Now
draw the pan back on the range wh&re the vegetables
will cook slowly for twenty minutes, after which draw
them to one side of the pan, and press out as much of
the butter as possible. Meantime place the lettuce in
84 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
a cupful of boiling water, boil ten minutes, drain and
set it in readiness to add to the vegetables as soon as
done. Then put the vegetables and lettuce in the stock,
which should be at the boiling point ; add salt and
pepper, cook gently, tightly covered, for fifteen minutes,
and serve.
BEEF SOUP, WITH BARLEY.
This soup is very frequently made, an'd as its cost is
small, it will commend itself to those who have to con-
sider any outlay, however small.
Two pounds of round of beef.
Two quarts of water.
One onion.
One slice of carrot.
One stalk of cel'ery.
One bay-leaf.
Two cloves.
One third of a cupful of pearl barley,
One table spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Remove all the fat from the meat, cut the latter into
small pieces and chop it finely. Place the meat over the
fire with the water, heat slowly and let it simmer gently
three hours. Add the vegetables, and simmer one
hour longer. Meantime cook the barley very slowly for
two hours in plenty of water ; then strain the soup, add
to it the barley, and let all boil up. Put the butter in a
frying-pan, and when hot, add the flour, stirring until the
paste is smooth and brown. Turn the paste into the
soup, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
soups. 85
TURKISH SOUP.
One quart of stock.
One-half tea-cupful of rice.
, Two eggs (yolks only).
One table-spoonful of cream.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the rice and stock together for twenty minutes,
keeping the kettle tightly covered. Press them through
a sieve, returning to the fire all that runs through. Add
to this the cream, into which has been stirred the
beaten yolks ; and cook for two or three minutes, stirring
all the time to prevent burning. Season and serve at
once.
MOCK TURTLE SOUP.
The basis of this soup is calf's-head, one head making
six quarts of soup. This may seem a large quantity
of soup to make at one time, but it will keep well. Half
of a head cannot be bought, so it is necessary to make
the full quantity.
One calf's head
Six pounds of the shin of veal.
Eight quarts of water
Two table-spoonfuls of chopped carrot.
Two table-spoonfuls of chopped turnip.
Four table-spoonfuls of butter.
Six table-spoonfuls of arrow-root.
Three table-spoonfuls of ketchup.
Three stalks of celery.
One-half blade of mace.
Ten cloves.
Twenty pepper-corns.
One bay-leaf.
86 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Two lemons.
One glass of sherry.
One small piece of cinnamon.
Have the butcher split and scrape the head and saw
the bone of the veal into several pieces. Wash all care-
fully. Place the head in a large pan and soak it for two
hours, keeping it covered with cold water ; then take it
out, drain thoroughly, remove the brains, place the head
and shin of veal in the soup-kettle with the water, heat
slowly, and keep at the boiling point for three hours.
At the expiration of this time skim out the shin of veal,
and also remove the head, being careful not to break it.
Strain the stock, and place all but two quarts aside to
cool. Return the two quarts to the kettle with the shin
of veal, add the spices, cover tightly, and permit the
whole to simmer slowly. Fry the vegetables gently in
the butter for twenty minutes, browning them at the last ;
and, adding them to the veal, simmer four hours.
Strain the stock, and set it away to cool. In the morning
remove the fat, and place the two quantities of stock
together on the fire with the ketchup, salt and pepper ;
and when all boils up, add the lemon-juice, the wine and
the face of the calf's head, cut in strips. Thin slices of
lemon cut in quarters, egg-balls or force-meat balls
should be put in the tureen before the soup is turned in,
if one would serve it correctly.
OX-TAIL SOUP.
This is an inexpensive soup, as the tails can generally
be purchased for a very small sum.
Two ox-tails.
Four quarts of water.
SOUPS. 8; v
One soup bunch.
One onion (sliced).
Two carrots.
One stalk of celery.
Two sprigs of parsley.
One slice of pork.
Three cloves.
Salt and pepper to suit.
Wash and unjoint the tails, and crack the bones, if
possible. Slice the vegetables, and, mincing the pork,
place it in a stew-pan to heat. When hot, add the onion
to brown. Fry the tails also in this fat for a short time,
and place them in the soup-kettle with the water. Sim-
mer four hours, add the other vegetables, and when
these are very tender, the soup has cooked sufficiently.
Now strain the soup, and, having chosen a number of
the joints, one for each plate, trim them nicely and set
ihe whole away. The next day remove the fat from the
soup, season with salt, pepper, and ketchup or Worcester-
shire sauce, as preferred, and return the joints saved for
the purpose. Heat when needed for the table.
MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.
This is an Indian soup, and is served at many hotels
and restaurants. It may be made with either veal, calf's
head, chicken or rabbit, or with two or more Of these in
combination, It is highly seasoned with onions, curry
powder and sour apples, lemons or some other strong
acid fruit. The best portions of the meat are removed as
soon as tender and served with the soup. Boiled rice
should always accompany Mulligatawny, served sepa-
rately
88 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Four pounds of veal.
One-half pound of ham.
Four quarts of water.
One carrot.
Two onions.
One turnip.
Four cloves.
Four pepper-corns.
Six apples (sliced)
Three table-spoonfuls of curry powder.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Have the bone of the veal well broken, and place the
veal in the soup-kettle with the ham and the water. Fry
the onions brown in a little butter, and put them with the
meat, adding at the same time the sliced apples, vege-
tables, cloves, pepper-corns, and the sugar and curry
powder mixed to a paste with a little water. Simmer
gently for five hours, then strain and set away to cool.
Remove any fat that forms, and return to the range,
placing in the soup at the same time a piece of the veal
for each plate. When the whole is thoroughly heated,
season with salt and pepper and serve.
TURKEY-BONE SOUP.
Never throw away the carcass of a turkey or chicken,
for it will make a delicious soup. There are always
portions of the meat adhering to the bones, the neck is
generally left, and the " drumsticks," or the ends of the
wings often remain ; and all these can go to form a soup
for the next day's dinner, or for luncheon. Scrape the
meat from the bones and lay aside any nice pieces.
Remove the filling separately, break the bones, pack
SOUPS. 89
them in a kettle, and cover with cold water, adding a
small onion. Cover closely and simmer very gently for
three hours. Then strain and remove the fat, and return
to the fire. For every quart of stock add one cup-
ful of the cold meat and three-quarters of a cupful of
the filling, after which let the soup simmer half an hour,
and serve. If there should be more of the meat left
over, it can be used for making an entree. This soup
may be greatly improved by boiling in it three minutes
before serving ten oysters to each quart of soup made.
WHITE SOUP-STOCK
is made from veal or chicken and seasoned with onion,
celery salt and white pepper, everything being avoided
that will add color to it. It may be thickened with rice,
arrow-root, corn-starch or the white meat of the chicken,
chopped fine ; and is often made even richer by the
addition of milk or cream.
WHITE SOUP. (FROM VEAL.)
Four pounds of knuckle of veal.
Three quarts of water.
One table-spoonful of salt.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch.
One pint of milk.
Six pepper-corns.
Two small onions.
Two stalks of celery.
One salt-spoonful of celery salt.
One-half salt-spoonful of white pepper.
Cut the veal into small pieces, and place it in the
kettle with the water. Heat slowly and skim, and then
go THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
add the salt, pepper-corns, onions and celery. Let the
stock simmer for five hours, strain, and when cold
remove the fat that may have formed ; then place the
stock over the fire, and when it is bubbling hot, thicken
with the com- starch, first wetfing the starch with a little
cold stock or water. Season with the butter, salt and
pepper, and at the last turn in the milk, heated to
boiling point in a farina-kettle. This should make
but two quarts of soup, and the stock should be
boiled down to a pint and a-half before the milk is
added provided, of course, the stock exceeds that quan-
tity.
SOUP WITHOUT STOCK.
To make this the housewife need have little experi-
ence of her own, provided she follows the directions
carefully. Most soup without stock is quickly made and,
therefore, commends itself highly to the cook who is
pressed for time.
TOMATO SOUP.
For this take equal parts of tomato and water. If
fresh tomatoes are available, pour boiling hot water upon
them to loosen the skins, and having removed these by
plunging the tomatoes quickly into cold water after they
have stood one minute in the hot water, cut the toma-
toes in slices to more accurately measure them, and allow
as above. Cook the water and tomato rather slowly for
half an hour, and strain through a fine wire sieve, such
as is commonly used for sifting flour, pulping through all
the soft part of the vegetable and leaving only the seeds
in the sieve. Return to the fire, and season with butter,
SOUPS. 91
salt and pepper. Thicken the soup with a little corn-
starch wet in some of the soup, allowing one table-spoon-
ful of starch to every three pints of soup. Boiled rice,
macaroni or vermicelli may be added, with good effect.
MOCK-BISQUE SOUP.
One pint of tomato.
One quart of milk.
One large table-spoonful of butter.
One large table-spoonful of corn-starch.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of soda.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the tomatoes alone half an hour, adding the
seasoning and soda. When the tomatoes are soft, pulp
them through a fine sieve as directed in the preceding
recipe. Heat the milk in a farina-kettle, or in a tin
pail set in a kettle of water, and when it is scalding
thicken it with the corn-starch wet with a little cold milk.
If ready to serve, add the boiling milk to the tomatoes,
stir and dish at once. This soup must not go on the fire
after the milk and tomatoes are put together or the milk
will curdle. If the soup is made before it is needed, let
the tomato and milk remain in separate vessels, and mix
them just before sending to table.
CRAB AND TOMATO BISQUE
is made like the above, except that a pint of crab meat is
added to the milk, and after the milk is thickened and
cooked three minutes, the whole is turned into the toma-
toes. Canned crab meat may be used when the fresh is
not available.
92 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
BEAN SOUP.
One pint of beans.
Two quarts of water.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
The " scarlet runners " are the best beans for soup.
Soak the beans over night in three quarts of cold water,
and next morning drain and add two quarts of water.
Cook the beans slowly for three hours, stirring fre-
quently ; and when they are soft, pulp them through a
fine wire sieve, leaving only the skins in the sieve.
Return to the kettle, add the seasoning, cook ten minutes
longer, and serve. Dish with toasted or fried bread.
CORN SOUP.
One can of corn, or
One pint cut fresh from the cob.
Two and a-half pints of milk.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table -spoonfuls of flour,
One table-spoonful of chopped onion,
Two eggs (the yolks only).
Salt and pepper to taste.
Mash the corn as fine as possible and cook it fifteen
minutes in one quart of the milk placed in a double
boiler. Cook the onion in the butter in a frying-pan for
ten minutes, then add the flour, and cook until the mixture
becomes frothy, being careful not to brown it. Stir this
into the corn and milk, add salt and pepper, and cook
ten minutes longer. At the end of this time rub the
soup through a fine sieve and return it to the fire. Beat
the yolks of the eggs well, add to them the half pint of
SOUPS. 93
milk remaining, and stir the liquid into the soup. Cook
one minute longer, stirring all the time, and serve at
once. When fresh corn is at hand, many cooks break
the cobs into small pieces and boil them thirty minutes
in enough water to cover them, and they add this water
to the corn while cooking in the milk. There should in
no instance be more than a pint of this liquid for the
above quantity, and three table-spoonfuls of flour will be
added instead of two, to give the soup the desired con-
sistence.
CELERY SOUP.
One head of celery.
One pint of water.
One pint of milk.
One table-spoonful of chopped onion.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Salt and pepper to taste.
This is a good way to utilize the portions of celery
that are not presentable for the table. Cut the celery
into half-inch lengths, and boil it in the water until soft,
mashing it as much as possible. Cook the onion ten
minutes in the milk in a double boiler, and add both to
the celery. Rub the whole through a fine sieve, and
return to the fire ; then make a paste of the butter and
flour, stir it into the boiling soup, season and serve.
NOODLE SOUP.
Three pints of milk.
Three table-spoonfuls of flour.
Noodles.
One slice of onion.
A bit of mace.
Salt and pepper to taste.
94 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Put all but a cupful of the milk on the stove in a
double boiler, placing the onion and mace in the milk.
Mix the flour and cold milk together until smooth, and
stir this paste into the boiling milk. Next add the sea-
soning and cook for fifteen minutes, then put in the
noodles, and cook five minutes more.
NOODLES FOR SOUP.
Beat with one egg a half-cupful of flour and one-fourth
of a tea-spoonful of salt. Work this dough with the hands
until it becomes smooth and like putty ; then roll it
as thin as a wafer on a well floured moulding-board. Let
this sheet of dough lie for five minutes, after which
roll it up loosely, and with a sharp knife cut it from. the
end into very thin slices, forming little wheels or curls.
Spread these pieces on the board to dry for half an hour
even longer will do no harm. Next cook them
twenty-five minutes in boiling salted water, and drain
thoroughly in a colander, when they are ready for use in
soup.
OYSTER SOUP.
One quart of oysters.
Three pints of milk.
Butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Place the oysters on the fire in their own liquor, and let
them gently simmer until their edges "ruffle." At the
same time put the milk on to heat in a double boiler,
and when it is at the scalding point, turn it over the
oysters. Let the soup stand one minute, skim well with
a fine skimmer, season and serve at once. If a richer
soup be desired, allow equal quantities of milk and
oysters. Many cooks place a blade of mace in the milk
before scalding, but this is a matter of taste.
CLAM SOUP.
One-half peck of clams, in the shells.
Two eggs.
One pint of milk.
Butter, pepper and salt to suit the taste.
Wash the shells thoroughly, using a fine brush to rid
them of all the sand in the seams, and place them in a
hot oven in a pan. when the shells will quickly open ;
then extract the meat and chop it rather finely. Heat the
clam liquor, adding whatever may be in the pan ; and
when it is at the boiling point, add the chopped
clams. Heat again, remove all the scum that will arise,
and add the butter and pepper and a little salt. Heat
the milk in a double boiler, reserving half a cupful of it.
Now beat the eggs well, turn them into the cold milk,
mix thoroughly, stir the whole into the boiling milk, and
pour at once into the tureen. Next turn in the boiled
clams, which should have been cooking slowly not more
than five minutes. The milk and clams should never be
put over the fire together, or the milk will curdle.
FISH.
" How many things by season, seasoned are
To their right praise and true perfection."
SHAKSPERE.
*
FISH being abundant, cheap and wholesome, is invalu-
able as food. It is a delicious adjunct to any dinner
table, and in many families suffices for a good dinner by
itself ; but it requires nice and careful cooking. Nothing
is more unappetizing than a piece of underdone fish; in-
deed, no food requires so much delicacy in handling and
dressing, for if it is not perfectly fresh, perfectly cleaned
and thoroughly cooked, it is not fit to appear on the table.
Salmon is the richest of fish, being even richer and
more nutritious than meat. Red-blooded fish, like
salmon, mackerel and blue-fish, have the oil distributed
through the body. They are too rich for invalids, and
should be eaten sparingly by people who are not very
strong. White fish has the oil in the liver, and is conse-
quently more digestible.
TO CLEAN A FISH,
remove the scales before opening, and scrape with a
sharp knife from tail to head, holding the knife flat and
slanting, and scraping slowly. Split the fish open, if a
96
FISH. 97
large one, from the gills half-way down the lower part of
the body ; remove the entrails, and scrape and clean the
inside, removing all the blood from the back-bone. If
the fish has been scaled and cleaned by the dealer, it
should always be scraped again about the head and tail,
for scales are sure to be found on these parts. The
blood and dark substance found on the back-bone should
also be scraped off. If the fish is to be boiled or baked,
the tail and head are left on, and the fins removed. The
fish should be washed carefully in cold water, and dried
before cooking. Fish that have a strong flavor, like
sturgeon, catfish or sword-fish, should be soaked a few
hours in strongly salted water. Use as little water as
possible in cleansing fish ; and the more expeditious the
work is done at this point the better will be the flavor of
the fish, since water draws out the juices of most fish if
they are permitted to soak in it.
Frozen fish should be well thawed out in cold water be-
fore using. Salt fish should be soaked in fresh water with
the skin side upward, to draw out the salt. Fish should
not be placed in the ice-chest near milk or butter, as these
articles are very easily tainted.
TO SKIN A FISH,
cut a thin strip down the back, taking off the fin ; and
open the lower part half-way down. Then slip the knife
under and up through the bony part of the gills, and,
holding this bony part between the thumb and finger,
strip the skin off toward the tail. Treat the other side in
the same way. Catfish and eels are always skinned
before they are eaten.
7
98 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
FILLETS OF FISH
are the flesh separated from the bone and served in dif-
ferent ways. In flounders, chicken halibut and bass the
fillets on each side are divided lengthwise. They may be
served in the form in which they are cut, or they may be
rolled and fastened with a small skewer.
Fish that are long and slender are served on long,
slender platters. Boiled and fried fish are often brought
to table on a napkin ; the latter is folded the length and
width of the fish, and placed on the serving dish, the fish
being laid upon it. When the dish is large enough, a
sauce is poured around the fish, no .napkin being used in
this case ; and the head and tail are garnished with
parsley. Fillets of fish, when rolled, are arranged in a
circle on the dish, the sauce being poured in the center.
When not rolled, they are .heaped in a pyramid in the
center of the dish ; or they may be arranged in a circle,
one fillet overlapping another. The center is then filled
with sauce.
FISH, BOILED.
To boil fish properly, a fish kettle is almost indispen-
sable (see " Kitchen Utensils "), as the fish can then be
easily lifted out without risk of breaking it. If there is
no fish kettle, wrap the fish well in a good-sized piece of
cheese-cloth, pinning the lap securely ; if care be exer-
cised, it can be nicely lifted out by the cloth. Another
way is to arrange the fish in a circle on a plate, and tie a
napkin around the whole ; when the fish is boiled, lift it
out by the napkin.
Fish to boil should be rubbed with a little vinegar
FISH.
99
before being placed in the water; and the water should
be salted, and made acid by the addition of lemon juice
or vinegar. This whitens the fish and makes the flakes
firm, and also imparts a very delicate flavoring to it.
Fish that is to be served with the skin on should not be
put in cold water to boil, else the juices will be drawn
out and the fish rendered insipid ; and yet many kinds of
fish have such a delicate skin, that it contracts and breaks
if put in hot water, thus greatly detracting from the appe-
tizing appearance of the fish. The best method is to put
into the fish kettle half as much cold water as is required,
place the fish in it, and then gradually add boiling water
until the fish is covered, care being taken not to pour the
hot water directly upon the fish. In this way the skin
contracts slowly and does not break. Mackerel, trout,
striped bass, etc., should always be treated in this man-
ner. Fish that have a thick, tough skin can be put into
"water that is at the boiling point, but not bubbling.
Halibut, sturgeon or any fish that is not served with the
skin on should be placed into boiling water. The water
should, never boil rapidly, for if it does, the fish will be
broken and thus rendered unsightly. Too much cooking
makes the fibres dry and woolly, but fish should be
cooked until the flakes will separate easily. (See
" Cook's Time-Table " for the proper length of time
to boil.) A sauce should always be served with boiled
fish, otherwise it will prove a decidedly tame and unat-
tractive course. (See " Sauces for Fish.")
TO BOIL AU COURT BOUILLON.
This is a favorite way of boiling a fish, *and should
have an English title that would suggest the really easy
100 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK,
manner of the work, instead of this elaborate French
name. It is simply boiling the fish in water, flavored
with vegetables. Fry in a little butter one onion, one
stalk of celery and three sprigs of parsley. Then add
the following :
Two table-spoonfuls of salt.
Six pepper-corns.
One bay-leaf.
Three cloves.
Two quarts of boiling water.
One pint of vinegar or sour wine.
Boil for fifteen minutes, skim well, strain, and boil the fish
in the liquid. First rub the fish with lemon juice and
salt, then place it in a kettle, and cover it with the court
bouillon, and boil it slowly until done. Serve the fish
with a sauce, the same as if it were plainly boiled. This
court bouillon is easily preserved and may be used several
times.
FISH, BAKED.
Cod, haddock, cusk, blue-fish, shad, red-snappers,
white fish, trout and many other kinds of fish are stuffed
and baked whole. Instead of the wire rack used for
roasting meat, have a thick sheet of tin, with rings at the
ends for handles, and large enough to fit into the dripping-
pan. A simple sheet of tin may be used, without handles.
By this means the fish can be easily lifted out and slipped
into the serving dish. If a sheet of tin is not at hand,
put two broad strips of cotton cloth across the pan before
laying the fish in it, and when the latter is done lift it out
by means of the cloth. Rub the sheet well with fat pork
to keep the fish from sticking to it, and also place pieces
FISH. 10 1
of the pork under the fish itself. The following varieties
of stuffing will be found satisfactory for filling fish for
baking.
CRACKER STUFFING.
One cupful of cracker-crumbs.
Two-thirds cupful of water or milk.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One tea-spoonful of chopped onion.
One table-spoonful of capers.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of lemon juice.
Rub the butter into the cracker-crumbs, add all the
seasoning, and then stir in the water or milk. This
makes a crumbly stuffing.
STALE BREAD STUFFING.
One and one-half cupful of grated bread-crumbs.
One-half cupful of milk.
One table-spoonful of chopped onion.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-fourth tea-spoonful of pepper.
Add the seasoning and butter to the crumbs, and beat
in the milk last. This stuffing is more commonly made
than the last.
OYSTER STUFFING.
One pint of oysters.
One cupful of powdered cracker-crumbs.
One-half table-spoonful of chopped onion.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
102 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Chop the oysters fine, and add to them the other
ingredients, mixing well.
Fish will bake more evenly and may be more easily
managed in every way, if placed upright in the pan
instead of on their sides. Each fish may be propped up
with pared potatoes or a cut of stale bread placed on
each side. Fish, however, that are long and narrow may
be readily tied into the shape of the letter S, thus : Hav-
ing threaded a long needle with twine, tie the end of the
twine around the head of the fish, fastening it tightly ;
then pass the needle through the center part of the body,
draw the string tight, and fasten it around the tail. Fish
thus tied will retain the shape after they are baked.
A fish that is to be baked should be rubbed with salt,
both outside and inside ; then stuff and fasten the rent or
opening together with a skewer or with a needle and thread.
Rub soft butter all over the fish, dredge it thickly with
flour, and lay on the top narrow strips of fat salt pork.
Now pour in the pan just enough boiling water to cover
the bottom, and bake the fish in a hot oven. Baste
every ten minutes with the gravy in the pan and a little
butter, and lightly dredge at each basting with salt, pep-
per and flour. When the fish is done, remove the
skewer or strings, and place the fish on the serving dish.
Set the pan on top of the stove, add water to the
gravy until there is a full pint in the pan, and thicken
with one table-spoonful of flour wet to a paste with a
little water ; then cook the gravy three minutes, season
to taste with salt and pepper, strain through a sieve and
pour it around the fish. If the sediment in the pan seems
at all burnt, do not use it, but make instead a brown sauce,
and pour it around the fish. (See " Sauces for Fish.")
FISH. 103
FISH, BAKED WITH TOMATOES.
When placing the fish in the oven put in the bottom of
the pan four table-spoonfuls of chopped tomatoes, either
fresh or canned ; and baste the fish with them, adding
water as usual. Care should be taken that the pan does
not become dry, for the tomatoes will soon stick to it.
The gravy is made as directed above, but if by any acci-
dent the tomatoes have become scorched, serve a made
tomato sauce with the fish. (See " Sauces for Fish.")
This is a very delicious way of serving baked haddock.
BAKED BLUE-FISH.
This fish is one of the most satisfactory varieties for
baking. It should be stuffed with a bread stuffing and
served with a cream sauce. (See " Sauces for Fish.")
BAKED SHAD.
Open the shad only far enough to remove the roe, and
follow the directions given for " Baked Fish." Serve the
roe on a small platter, giving a portion to each person
with the fish. Roe is cooked in different ways, three of
which are given below.
BAKED ROE.
Drop the roe gently into salted boiling water, and let it
boil twenty minutes, but not rapidly. Drain, and. lay it on
a buttered tin plate. Dredge the roe well with pepper
and salt, spread soft butter over it, and lastly dredge
plentifully with flour. Bake in the oven thirty minutes,
during -which time baste frequently with salt, pepper,
water and butter, always dredging with flour after each
basting.
IO4 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
FRIED ROE.
Cook the roe ten minutes in boiling salted water to
which a table-spoonful of vinegar has been added.
Drain, roll it in beaten egg and then in cracker-crumbs
season with salt and pepper, and fry until brown in hot
fat.
SCALLOPED ROE.
Boil as for fried roe, drain, and break the roe up
lightly with a fork. Make a white sauce (See " Sauces
for Fish.") Sprinkle a layer of roe in a baking dish ; add
half the yolk of an egg, well beaten, dropping it over the
top of the roe ; next sprinkle lightly with finely chopped
parsley; salt and pepper to taste and a few drops of
lemon juice, and then add a layer of the white sauce.
Repeat the layers of roe, egg, seasoning and sauce, cover
with bread-crumbs and bits of butter, and bake until
brown. If a large dish is required, use with the roe any
cold flaked fish left from a former meal. Various kinds
of roe may be prepared the same as shad roe.
HALIBUT a la Creola.
Four pounds of fish.
One cupful of water.
One pint of stewed tomatoes.
One slice of onion.
Three cloves.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Put the tomatoes, water, cloves and onion on the
FISH. 105
stove in a stew-pan to boil. Mix the butter and flour
together, stir them into the sauce when it boils, and add
the salt and pepper. Cook ten minutes, and strain into a
bowl. Pour into a deep plate boiling water to the depth
of half an inch, and lay the fish in it for a minute, black-
skin side down ; on removing the fish from the water
the black skin can be easily taken off. Wash the fish in
cold water, season with salt and pepper and lay it on
the baking sheet in a dripping-pan ; then pour half the
tomato sauce around the fish, and bake in a hot oven
forty-five minutes, basting three times with the remainder
of the tomato sauce. Serve with the sauce remaining in
the bottom of the pan poured around the dish.
CARBONADE OF HALIBUT OR WHITE FISH.
Any fish from which solid slices of flesh can be cut
may be used for a carbonade. The two varieties men.
tioned above are delicious prepared in this way.
Two pounds of fish.
Two eggs.
One pint of dried bread-crumbs.
Four table-spoonfuls of butter.
One tea-spoonful of onion juice.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Cut the fish into pieces about three inches square and
one inch thick. Place the butter, salt, pepper and onion
juice in a deep plate on the back of the range, and melt
the butter ; beat the eggs until light in another plate, and
put a part of the crumbs in a third plate. Dip the
pieces of fish first in the melted butter, then in the egg
and lastly in the crumbs, and lay them in a dripping-pan
I 6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
that has been buttered on the bottom, sprinkling what
remains of the egg and butter over the carbonades.
Cook in a hot oven for twelve or fifteen minutes, and
serve with Hollandaise, Tartare or maitre d'hotel sauce.
(See " Sauces for Fish. ")
BAKED SALT MACKEREL.
Wash a salt mackerel well and soak it over night in
three quarts of cold water, laying it with the skin side
upward. In the morning lay the fish on its back in a
shallow baking tin (not too large for the fish), and pour
over it a pint of milk. Bake twenty minutes in a hot
oven, stirring into the milk at the end of fifteen minutes
a table-spoonful each of flour and butter, and a sprink-
ling of pepper, all rubbed together into a smooth paste.
Serve with the thickened milk poured around the fish.
This makes a very palatable breakfast dish.
FRIED FISH.
Mackerel, salmon, blue-fish or any oily fish should
never be fried. Smelts, perch and other small pan fish
are fried whole. Cod, halibut, etc., should be skinned
and cut in slices ?Pn inch thick and two or three inches
square. Flounders and bass may be cut in fillets, if
desired. When fish has been kept near ice or is frozen,
it should be warmed gently before being fried, that
which is frozen being laid in cold water to thaw ; other-
wise the fish would chill the fat and become greasy.
Enough fat should be used to cover the fish nicely. The
frying basket should be used for smelts. Test the fat
before using it by throwing in a crumb of bread ; if
FISH. 107
the bread browns in half a minute, the fat is hot
enough.
To prepare fish for frying, clean and dry them, season
with salt and pepper and dredge with flour ; then dip
them into beaten egg, and roll in fine bread or
cracker-crumbs. If this does not cover them completely,
repeat the process. Smelts are not split open and
cleaned, but the entrails are squeezed out carefully, so
as not to bruise the fish ; and the heads are not
removed. The smelts are washed as quickly as possible
and then dried, no attempt being made to scale them.
All fried fish should be thoroughly drained before being
served. Another way of preparing fish for frying is to
pepper and salt them and roll them in salted corn
meal.
FRIED EELS.
Skin the eels (if this has not already been done by the
fishmonger), cut them into four-inch lengths, and season
with salt and pepper. Then roll them in salted corn
meal, and fry.
BROILED FISH.
Shad, white fish, blue-fish, young -cod, haddock and
many other kinds of fish are preferred by many broiled.
A dry fish should be dipped in melted butter before
broiling. In broiling whole fish, like shad, split them the
entire length, wash quickly in water, and dry. Rub the
bars of a double wire broiler with butter, and place the
fish in it. Dredge with salt, pepper and flour, and place
over a clear but not fierce fire, the inside of the fish
being turned toward the fire first. Watch it carefully,
108 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
and turn frequently. On taking the broiler from the fire
let it rest upon a dish, loosen the fish from the wires on
both sides by slipping a knife between the fish and the
wires ; then raise the broiler with the skin side of the fish
up, and fold the broiler together on the under side, leav-
ing the fish on top. Place a warm platter upside down
over the fish upon the broiler, and turn broiler, fish and
platter over together. Lift the broiler, leaving the fish
in the center of the platter. Serve with butter, squeezing
a few drops of lemon-juice over the fish, if desired.
Shad is sometimes served with a cream or Bechamel
sauce.
OTHER MODES OF DRESSING FISH.
SALT CODFISH IN CREAM.
One and a-half pint of fish.
One pint of milk.
One egg.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour or corn-starch.
One-third tea-spoonful of pepper.
Wash the fish, tear it into bits, and covering it with
cold water, let it soak over night. In the morning pour
off the water, and place the fish on the fire in a frying-
pan, adding enough fresh cold water to cover it. When
the water reaches the boiling point, draw the pan back
where it will keep hot for fifteen minutes, at the end of
which time the fish should be cooked sufficiently. Rapid
boiling hardens salt fish, so the cooking can scarcely be
too slow. Drain the fish well, and place it in a double
boiler with the milk ; or if great care be taken, the milk
can be poured over the fish in the pan. If the latter mode
is preferred, the milk must be stirred incessantly, or it
FISH. 109
will scorch. When the milk is at boiling heat, stir in
the flour and butter, well rubbed together ; or if corn-
starch is used, it should be first wet with a little cold
milk. Cook slowly for five minutes, season with pepper
and a little salt, if needed, and, drawing the fish away
from the heat, stir in the beaten egg thinned with one
table-spoonful of milk. Let the whole stand two min-
utes, and serve on a hot platter.
FISH CHOWDER.
Cut a pound of salt pork into strips, and soak it in
hot water for five minutes. Place a layer of pork in
the bottom of a large tin pail. Cut four pounds of sea-
bass or cod into pieces two inches square, and lay enough
of the fish upon the pork to cover it. Follow with a
layer of raw sliced potatoes, then a thin layer of chopped
onion, a little parsley, summer savory or any herb of that
sort ; and salt and pepper lightly. Next add a layer of
Boston crackers or pilot or sea biscuits, broken rather fine.
Then begin again with a layer of pork, and repeat in the
same order until all the fish is used, having crackers
on top. Pour over the whole enough water to cover it,
place the cover on the pail, and set the latter in a large
kettle of boiling water. Let it simmer slowly three
hours, or less if the fish and potatoes are already cooked,
and serve with slices of lemon.
CODFISH BALLS.
One quart of raw sliced potatoes.
One large cupful of salt fish.
One egg.
Two table-spoonfuls of cream or milk,
One table-spoonful of butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
I 10 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Pick all the bones from the fish, shredding the latter
finely ; and slowly boil the fish and the sliced potatoes
together in plenty of water, until the potatoes are soft.
Mash both together, and beat until fine and light ; then
add the seasoning, butter and milk, and the egg well
beaten, mixing all thoroughly with a spoon. Have
plenty of very hot fat in the frying-pan, and into it drop
the mixture, a table-spoonful at a time. Do not use the
hands to form the cakes into balls, as is sometimes done,
and do not flour the cakes. Made in this way they
will be found very delicate and light ; in fact, cooks
who have tried this method will never return to the
old way of making.
SALT MACKEREL.
Clean the fish by scraping off any rusty-looking part
and the thin black membrane found on the inside, and
lay it over night in plenty of cold water, with the skin
side up. In the morning place the fish in a frying-pan
on the fire, cover with fresh water, and slowly heat to the
boiling point. Drain off this water, add just enough
fresh water to cook the fish, and boil slowly until tender.
Lift the mackerel out carefully (a pancake shovel will be
found most convenient for such work), and place it on
the serving dish in the oven to keep hot while the gravy
is being prepared. This is made as follows : drain off
the water left in the frying-pan after the removal of the
fish, until there is a half-pint remaining, and pour into
the pan a pint of milk. When the liquid boils, add three
table-spoonfuls of flour stirred to a paste with two table-
spoonfuls of butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper.
Let the gravy boil slowly three or four minutes, stirring
FISH. 1 1 I
constantly ; then pour it over the mackerel. This sauce
should not be lumpy, but smooth as cream. Mackerel
cooked in this way makes a very acceptable breakfast
dish.
CANNED SALMON.
The California canned salmon is one of the greatest
successes achieved by the canner's art. By always keep-
ing a few cans of this fish in the house, the housewife will
be able at a moment's notice to prepare an appetizing
dish for breakfast or luncheon. One can of salmon will
be sufficient for six persons. Place the salmon in a small
frying-pan, and pour enough milk over the fish to nearly
cover it. Cover the frying-pan, and let its contents sim-
mer slowly, being careful to keep the milk just at the bub-
bling point. Now thicken the milk with a table-spoonful
of corn-starch wet with a little cold milk, adding a small
quantity at a time to the boiling milk, so the latter will
not become too thick. Often all the corn-starch will not
be needed, the quantity, of course, depending on the
amount of milk used on the fish ; but enough thickening
should be added to make the milk like cream. Season
with salt, pepper and butter, and serve on a hot platter.
This preparation is sometimes served on nicely toasted
bread, making a very attractive-looking dish.
TO COOK FROGS' LEGS.
The hind legs of frogs are the only part used for food.
They are usually sold ready for cooking, but in some
places they are to be purchased just as taken from the
frogs. In this case strip off the skin carefully to avoid
tearing the tender flesh, wash the legs in cold water, and
I 1 2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
dry them well on a towel or napkin. Season with salt,
pepper and lemon juice. For six legs, thoroughly beat
up one egg, and season it with salt and pepper ; dip the
legs into the egg, then into dried bread-crumbs or fine
cracker-crumbs, plunge them into boiling fat, and fry for
five minutes. They can be sauteed in a frying-pan, but
are not then so nice as when cooked with plenty of fat.
Use the wire frying-basket for them, if you have one.
Frogs' legs are served for breakfast or luncheon, and for
the latter they are accompanied by Tartar sauce. (See
" Sauces for Fish.")
FISH REMNANTS.
The "left-over" portions of cold boiled or baked fish
may be used in many ways. The fish should be freed
from skin and bones and flaked.
CUSK & la Crime.
One pint of cold, flaked fish.
9 One pint of milk.
Two eggs (yolks only).
One small slice of onion.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
One bay-leaf.
One sprig of parsley.
One blade of mace.
A little salt and pepper.
Place the milk, mace, onion, parsley and bay-leaf
together on the fire in a double boiler, or in a tin
pail set in a kettle of hot water. Rub the butter and
flour together, stir them into the milk when it has
boiled, and cook three minutes. Add the beaten
FISH. I I 3
yolks, which have been thinned with a table-spoonful of
cold milk ; boil one minute, remove from the fire and
strain, adding salt and pepper to taste. Arrange a layer
of this sauce in the bottom of a baking dish, then a layer
of fish, next a layer of sauce, and so on until all the
sauce and fish have been used, placing a layer of sauce
on top. Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs and tiny dots
of butter, and bake in a hot oven until brown. Serve in
the dish in which it was baked.
FISH a la Reine.
One pint of cold flaked fish.
One-half pint of milk or cream.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One egg (yolk only).
Three chopped mushrooms, if you have them.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Put the butter in the frying-pan, and when it melts add
the flour; then gradually add the milk, stirring thor-
oughly. As soon as the milk boils turn in the fish, mush-
rooms, salt and pepper, and cook the whole very slowly
until the fish is thoroughly heated. Beat the yolk of egg
lightly, add a table-spoonful of milk to thin it, and add
the parsley and egg to the fish, stirring the mixture well
together for a minute, when it is ready to serve.
FISH CROQUETTES.
One pint o cold, flaked fish.
One pint of hot mashed potatoes.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One-half cupful of hot milk.
114 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
One egg, well beaten.
One-third tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
Mix the fish with the potatoes, and afterward add all
the other ingredients, putting the butter into the hot pota-
toes to melt. Mix all thoroughly, and set away to cool.
When cold, shape into balls, dip them into beaten egg,
and roll in cracker-crumbs or fine bread-crumbs. Just
before serving time, place the croquettes in a frying
basket, and plunge them in boiling fat. Cook for two
minutes, drain well, and serve at once. If the croquettes
are wanted for breakfast, all the work, except the frying,
may be done the previous day.
FISH Rechauffe.
One pint of cold fish.
One- half pint of egg sauce. (See " Sauces for Fish.")
One quart of mashed potatoes.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Place one-half of the potato in a baking dish ; then
season the fish well with salt and pepper, lay it upon
the potato, add the sauce to the top of the fish, and
spread the other half of the potato on top of the mass.
Cover the potato with a thin layer of butter, and bake
for twenty minutes in a hot oven. The sauce is very sim-
pie.
SPICED MACKEREL.
When cooking salt mackerel, it is well to prepare more
than enough for immediate use, so that this really fine
dish may be arranged. By some this is called " Salma-
FISH. I 1 5
gundi," on account of the mixture of spices used. Clean
the mackerel, and, having soaked it over night in cold
water with the inside down, drain, and boil slowly until
tender in fresh water. Then lift the fish out, drain well,
and place it in a rather deep dish. It is best to cut the
fish into four pieces after it is cooked, as it can thus be
more easily managed. For a mackerel weighing one
pound make the following pickle and pour it over the fish
boiling hot. Allow
One pint of vinegar.
Two bay-leaves.
One table-spoonful of prepared spices.
One tea-spoonful of whole mustard.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One slice of onion.
Place the spices in the vinegar on the fire, cover tightly
and let them steep slowly for an hour, to draw out the
flavors. Strain, and pour the liquid over the fish, cover-
ing it while the vinegar steams. The fish will be ready to
serve in a day. The prepared spices, which may be pro-
cured at any grocer's, consist of a mixture of cloves',
allspice, cinnamon and mustard.
SHELL-FISH.
OYSTERS.
The breeding season for oysters begins about the first
of May, at which time they become soft and milky and do
not return to their firm condition again until the weather
is cold. Canned oysters, however, are good at any time
and are often a blessing to the invalid on this account,
1 1 6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK,
since they may always be relied upon to furnish a tempt-
ing dish.
Oysters are differently sold in different places, some
dealers selling by measure only, while others sell both
by measure and count. When they are sold by the
dozen, they are generally divided into several grades.
"Counts "are the largest and are suitable for frying,
broiling, etc. ; they are, of course, the most expensive
kind. " Selects " rank next to " counts " and in some
markets are called " culls." " Straights " are oysters
taken as they come, the large with the small.
Oysters are very dainty food and require careful hand-
ling. The seasoning used should be of the most delicate
kind, and the oysters should never be cooked after they
have become plump and the edges curl. Too much cook-
ing makes them hard and indigestible and ruins their
flavor entirely.
OYSTERS, RAW.
Raw oysters are served either on the half-shell, on
oyster plates or in a block of ice. Allow to each person
five or six oysters and a quarter of a lemon, and also pass
thin slices of delicately buttered brown or graham bread.
Little neck clams take the place of oysters during the
hot weather and are similarly served.
OYSTERS ON ICE.
There is a very attractive way of serving raw oysters.
Select a rectangular piece of clear ice, with smooth, reg-
ular surfaces. With a hot brick or flat-iron melt a cavity
in the ice large enough to hold the oysters. Pour out the
water from the melted ice, wash out the cavity and dry it,
FISH. 1 1 7
and put in the oysters, which should be well drained in a
colander. Place a thick napkin on a platter, set the ice
upon this, and garnish the dish with parsley and sliced
lemon. A bed of smilax or parsley is sometimes made
about and upon the napkin to conceal it, the lemon .being
placed on this green bed. The ice is often chipped
roughly to resemble a rock.
OYSTER SOUP.
This will be found among the soups.
OYSTERS, FRIED.
Drain the oysters well in a colander and season with
salt and pepper. Have ready a pint and a-half of dried
bread-crumbs (see index for method of preparing bread for
crumbing), and slightly salt and pepper them. This quan-
tity of crumbs will " bread " fifty oysters, which number
will be ample for six persons. Thoroughly beat three
eggs. Place a few crumbs on a plate, and roll the oys-
ters in them, adding crumbs as needed, until all the oys-
ters have been treated to the crumbs. Lay the oysters as
they are crumbed on a baking board that has been
sprinkled with crumbs. Dip the oysters into the beaten
egg, one at a time, and roll each, as soon as dipped, in
the bread-crumbs again. Do not pile them one upon
another ; and let them stand at least an hour before fry-
ing, if you would have them in perfection. Place a layer
of oysters in a frying-basket and plunge them into
boiling fat that is so hot that blue smoke rises from the
center. Cook about a minute and a-half, and drain on
soft brown paper. Oysters fried in this manner are
brown, tender, crisp and plump.
I 1 8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
OYSTERS, SAUTEED.
Drain the oysters well, season with salt and pepper,
and roll them in fine bread or cracker crumbs. Place
clear fat in a frying-pan (butter may be used if the differ-
ence in cost is not an object), and when it becomes very
hot drop in enough oysters to cover the bottom of the
pan. When one side is browned, turn the oysters care-
fully to brown the other side. The iron pancake griddle
is often used for this purpose, as in this way many oysters
may be cooked at one time. Serve very hot on toast.
OYSTERS FRICASSEED
Twenty-five large oysters.
One large table-spoonful of butter.
One large table-spoonful of flour.
One large table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One-half pint of milk.
Two eggs (yolks only).
Salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the oysters in their own liquor, and drain. Place
the butter in a frying-pan, and when it has melted, add
the flour, rubbing to a smooth paste. Now pour in the
milk, and stir it until it boils ; then add the oysters, half a
cupful of the liquor and the salt and pepper, and stir
again until the liquid boils. At this point remove the
pan from the fire, stir in the eggs, well beaten, and also
the parsley, and serve at once.
OYSTERS ON TOAST.
One pint of oysters.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Salt and pepper to taste.
FISH. 1 19
Heat the oysters in their own liquor, and when boiling,
skim them ; add the butter and flour rubbed to a crearn,
and season with salt and pepper ; then let the whole
cook about two minutes, to make certain the flour is
done. Have ready some nicely toasted bread ; and if
the oysters do not seem rich in liquor, wet the edges of the
toast carefully with a little salted water, pouring it on
with a tea-spoon so as not to add too much ; then turn
the oysters over the toast. Should there be plenty of
liquor to moisten the toast properly, the water, of course,
need not be used. This is a particularly delicate and
appetizing dish for an invalid or a convalescent. Many
prefer the liquor without thickening, and the flour is then
omitted, with quite as good results.
OYSTERS BAKED IN THE SHELLS.
Use only large oysters for this purpose. Wash the
shells and scrub them with a brush ; then place them in a
baking pan, with the round sides down to hold the juice,
and bake in a hot oven until the shells open. Remove
the upper shells, season each oyster (which should be
slightly loosened from the lower shell) with butter, salt
and pepper, and serve at once in the shells. Oysters
baked in this way are sometimes removed from the shells
and served in a hot dish. There is no way of cooking the
oyster in which the natural flavor is so fully developed.
Another method of baking oysters in the shell is as fol-
lows : Open the oysters, and season them highly with
butter, salt and pepper and a drop of Worcestershire
sauce or a little catsup, and bake a few minutes in a very
hot oven. Gentlemen who are fond of condiments gen-
erally prefer oysters roasted in this way.
1 20 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
OYSTERS, BROILED.
Use the oyster-broiler for this work. (See " Kitchen
Utensils.") Only the largest oysters are suitable for broil-
ing. Drain the oysters, season with salt and pepper, dip
them one by one in melted butter, and roll them in flour.
Then lay them on the broiler, and cook over clear
coals until they turn a delicate brown. These are served
on slices of thin toast. Fine cracker-crumbs may be used
instead of flour, if preferred.
OYSTERS, SCALLOPED.
Drain the oysters, and place a generous layer of them
in a baking dish, seasoning with salt and pepper and
dots of butter, half a table-spoonful of butter being
none too much. Spread a thick layer of cracker-crumbs
over the oysters, and repeat the layers of oysters, season-
ing and crumbs until all the oysters have been used,
placing a layer of cracker-crumbs at the top and sprink-
ling them lightly with salt, pepper and dots of butter.
Add an equal quantity of milk to the oyster liquor that
is, as much milk as liquor mix well together, and pour
'the liquid over the oysters, etc., helping it through to the
bottom of the dish at the sides, but disturbing the oys-
ters as little as possible. Bake twenty minutes, not too
rapidly, and serve in the baking-dish. There should be
at least a tea-cupful of the liquid to a quart baking-dish-
ful of oysters ; and if there is not half a tea-cupful of the
liquor, add enough more milk to make up the difference.
Oysters are often scalloped in their shells, using three
oysters to each shell ; or individual silver scallop dishes
are used, which is the daintiest way of serving.
FISH. 121
OYSTER CHOWDER.
One quart of oysters.
Six potatoes.
One and a-half pint of milk.
Three pilot or sea biscuits.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One onion.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Drain the oysters, and run each through the fingers to
remove any particles of shell. Strain the liquor through
a fine wire sieve. Thinly slice the potatoes and onion,
and boil them very gently in the oyster liquor until tender.
Wet the flour in a little of the milk, and stir it into the
scalding milk (which should have been heated by itself in
a double boiler), adding also the butter, salt and pepper.
Cook about a minute, put in the oysters, and boil two
minutes. Then turn into the milk the potatoes and
onion, and the liquor in which they have been boiled.
Place the crackers or sea biscuits in the tureen, pour the
chowder over them, and serve at once.
CLAMS.
There are two varieties of this shell-fish, the " long "
clam, which has a thin shell, and the " round " clam, the
shell of which is thick. " Little-neck " clams are the tiny,
" round " variety. " Long " clams are boiled or baked in
the oven, and the tough mouth end is not eaten. They
also make very delicate fritters.
CLAM FRITTERS.
Wash the clams well, using a thin, narrow brush to
122 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
bring out all the sand ; and place them in the oven in a
pan. When the shells open, take out the meat, and
strain the liquor that will have accumulated in the pan,
keeping it separate. To a pint of meat allow
Three eggs.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-fourth tea-spoonful of pepper.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
Two cupfuls of liquor, or add milk to make that amount.
Flour to thicken.
This is sufficient for a large quantity of fritters. They
may be fried by dropping the mixture, a spoonful at a
time, in hot fat, like fried cakes ; or they may be cooked
very satisfactorily on a pan-cake griddle. The former
way, however, is generally preferred.
CLAMS, BAKED IN THE OVEN.
Round clams are more often baked than the long
variety, but the thin-shelled clam is by no means a poor
dish when dressed in this way. When round clams are
to be baked, those of medium-size are best, although the
small ones are still very luscious cooked in this way.
They should be scrubbed well and placed in a baking
pan, and when the shells open they have cooked suffi-
ciently. Serve on a platter just as they come from the
oven, covering with a napkin to keep them hot
CLAM CHOWDER.
Many so-called chowders are nothing more nor less
than soup with potatoes and onion in it. This chowder
is of quite another kind, being served on a platter in-
FISH. 123
stead of in a soup tureen, as many " chowders " are
nowadays; and it is eaten with a fork. Large, round
clams are the kind used for this purpose, and they should
be opened and chopped rather finely. Put into the bot-
tom of a tin pail small pieces of salt pork, and then add a
layer of chopped clams. Place on this a layer of thinly
sliced raw potatoes, and next a layer of such vegetables
as may be liked celery, tomatoes, sliced onion, parsley,
etc., with a few slices of lemon and pepper sprinkled
over all. Then add a layer of broken Boston crackers or
pilot biscuit. Begin again with the pork, and follow it up
with clams, potatoes, seasoning and crackers, until all the
clams prepared are utilized. Pour the clam juice over
all, adding a little water to moisten the whole chowder.
Place the cover on the pail, put the pail in a kettle of
boiling water, and boil three hours. If only a small
quantity of chowder is desired, the double boiler may be
used for the cooking. If the potatoes are not sufficiently
cooked by this time, the chowder may be turned into a
kettle to finish, but it must be stirred constantly to keep
it from burning. It is seldom necessary, however, to
turn it out. Remove the pail at the end of the first hour
to see if there is moisture enough to cook all well, and
add a little water if necessary. The chowder need not
be stirred at all while cooking, unless it has to be turned
into a kettle. Sometimes one is unfortunate in selecting
clams, for if they are too salt the potatoes will not cook
tender. This seldom occurs, however.
CLAMS, ROASTED.
Round clams are cooked in this way, by placing them
directly upon the coals ; when the shells open, the clams
1 24 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
are cooked enough. Take them from the coals with a
pair of tongs, and send to the table the same as baked
clams. Season when eating with butter, salt and pepper,
and a taste of Worcestershire sauce.
CLAM SOUP.
This will be found among the soups.
LOBSTERS.
If possible, always boil lobsters at home. If a lobster
is cooked when purchased, see that the tail is stiff and
elastic, so that when it is bent out it springs quickly back ;
otherwise the lobster was dead when boiled. Choose the
small lobster that is heavy in proportion to its size.
Those with hard, solid shells streaked with black will be
found full of meat. The thin-shelled lobster is watery.
The male lobster is preferred for eating, and the female
for sauces and soups. The female has a broad tail and
not so many claws as the male. Canned lobster is very
convenient in case of emergency for making salad.
TO BOIL A LOBSTER. -
Fill a kettle nearly full of boiling water, and add a large
spoonful of salt. Wind a string around the lobster to
secure the claws to the body, and plunge it head first
into the kettle. A medium-sized lobster should boil in
half an hour; a large one in forty-five minutes. Too
much cooking toughens the meat.
TO OPEN A LOBSTER.
Let the lobster cool after boiling, and wipe the shell
perfectly dry. Break off all the claws, and separate the
FISH. I 2 $
tail from the body and the -body from its shell, leaving
the stomach or " lady," as it is called, in the shell. The
" lady " is found directly under the head. Save the
liver, which may be known by its greenish color, and
also the coral, which is used in sauces and salad.
Split the body through the center, and pick the meat from
the cells, cutting the under side of the tail shell open
also, and taking out the meat in one solid piece. Split
this piece open, and there will be uncovered a little vein
running its entire length. This is the intestinal canal
and must be removed. It is not always the same color,
being black, red or even white ; but it is not fit to eat.
Break off all the gills before picking the meat from the
joints, as they are liable to drop off with the meat and
are too woolly to be palatable. The gills, stomach and
intestines are the parts not eaten. When the shells of
the large claws are thin, cut off a strip down the sharp
edge, and remove the meat whole ; or the shell may be
broken, when too thick to be cut, by hammering it on the
edge. The claws should never be pounded in the middle,
as the meat is thus crushed and often filled with pieces of
shell.
TO SERVE LOBSTER PLAIN.
Arrange the meat in the center o f a dish, and garnish
with the small claws, sprigs of parsley or hard-boiled
eggs cut into quarters. Each person at table seasons to
suit with pepper, salt and vinegar or oil.
LOBSTER CHOPS.
These are at present a very fashionable dish, being
126 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
served at teas, luncheons and evening parties. They are
very dainty.
Two cupfuls of boiled lobster.
Two eggs (yolks only).
One cupful of cream or milk.
Three table-spoonfuls of flour.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One-eighth of a nutmeg.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Put the butter in a stew-pan, and when it bubbles, stir in
the flour. Cook this paste, slowly stirring all the time;
then pour in the cream, and add the lobster, cut into
small dice. Stir 'until scalding hot, take from the fire,
and when slightly cooled, stir in the yolks of the eggs,
well beaten, the grated nutmeg, and the salt and pepper.
Return to the fire and cook two minutes, stirring all
the time. Butter a platter, and on it spread the mixture
half an inch deep. When cold, form in the shape of
chops, pointed at one end ; roll the chops in beaten egg,
then in bread or cracker-crumbs, place them in the frying
basket and plunge them in boiling-hot fat until of a
nice brown color. The frying should not take longer
than three minutes. Drain well, and stick the end of a
small claw in each chop to represent the bone. Serve on
a napkin, placing the chops so they overlap each other,
and garnish with parsley.
LOBSTER FARCI. (STUFFED.)
Two cupfuls of lobster meat.
Three hard-boiled eggs (yolks).
One-half pint of milk.
One-fourth of a nutmeg, grated.
FISH. 127
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Cut the lobster into small pieces. Two lobsters will be
required for this quantity. Put the milk on to boil in the
double boiler, and when hot, stir into it the butter and
flour, rubbed well together. Stir until smooth, and cook
three minutes ; then remove from the fire, and add the
crumbs, parsley, lobster, salt and pepper, and the yolks of
the eggs mashed very fine. Mix all well together. In
opening the lobster for the stuffing, be careful not to break
the body or tail shells. Wash them and wipe dry, and
with a pair of scissors cut off the under part of the tail
shells, using the tails of both lobsters. Join the large
ends of the tail shells to the body shell, with the ends of
the tails out, thus forming a boat-shaped shell. Put the
stuffing into this boat, brush over the top with beaten egg,
sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs, and bake in a quick
oven for fifteen minutes.
STEWED LOBSTER.
Cut the meat fine and put it in a small frying-pan with
milk enough to nearly cover it ; when the milk boils,
thicken to a cream with a little corn starch wet with milk,
seasoning with salt, pepper and butter. Serve on toasted
bread laid on a hot platter.
DEVILED LOBSTER.
This is made the same as deviled crab, using two cup.
fuls of finely chopped lobster where twelve crabs are used
128 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK'.
in the recipe. This will require two small lobsters.
Serve in the lobster shells.
CRABS.
These shell-fish are found near the coast of the South-
ern and Middle states, and in Maryland special atten-
tion is paid to their propagation. They are generally
expensive and are sold alive or boiled. As they are
easily boiled, it is better not to trust to the fishmonger's
boiling. Like lobsters they should be heavy for their
size.
SOFT-SHELL CRABS.
Crabs, as well as lobsters, shed their shells annually.
When crabs are minus their shells they are known as
soft-shell crabs and are most highly esteemed by epi-
cures. In three days after the old shell is lost the new
one begins to harden, when the crab ceases to be the
choice tid-bit he was. This is the reason the supply of
soft-shell crabs is always short. They are, of course,
always sold alive.
TO CLEAN SOFT-SHELL CRABS.
To prepare these crabs for cooking will not be difficult,
if the following directions are carefully followed. The
back of the crab is of a greenish color and is like thin,
stiff rubber, and at each end it tapers to a point. Take
one of these points between the thumb and fore-finger of
the left hand, and, keeping the crab on its face all the
time, press the back with the second finger, bending the
shell back about half-way. There will thus be exposed
a spongy substance which must be scraped or, if neces-
FISH. 129
sary, cut away. Repeat the operation at the other point
of the back. The " apron," which is a small, loose sort
of tail, running to a point in the middle of the under shell
and closely lapping it, should be pulled off. Wash the
crabs in cold water, and drain well, wiping them gently
with a cloth. They are then ready for cooking.
FRIED SOFT-SHELL CRABS.
Dip the crabs in beaten egg that has been seasoned
with a little salt and pepper, and roll them in bread or
cracker crumbs, also seasoned with salt and pepper.
Fry in a frying-pan in hot butter, turning when necessary.
Place a cover over the pan when frying. The crabs
should fry slowly for twenty minutes, at least, and will be
of a deep-red shade when done. Drain a moment on soft
brown paper, and serve hot.
BAKED SOFT-SHELL CRABS.
Season the crabs with salt and pepper, dip them in
melted butter, and sprinkle thickly with dry bread or
cracker crumbs. Put them in a baking-pan, and bake in
a very hot oven for ten or twelve minutes. When tender,
remove to a platter, place the pan they were baked in on
top of the range, and add a little water and a table-
spoonful of flour wet to a -smooth paste. When the gravy
has boiled a minute, season with salt and pepper and
pour it around the crabs. Strain the gravy, if at all
lumpy. This is a very delicious way of cooking these
delicate shell-fish.
HARD-SHELL CRABS.
Plunge the crabs into boiling water, and cook fifteen
I 30 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
minutes ; then remove the outside shells and the shaggy
substance. Rinse in hot water, and arrange on a platter.
They are to be eaten from the shell.
DEVILED CRAB.
This has become a very fashionable dish. It is served
at almost all teas, receptions and parties. Only hard-
shell crabs are used for this dish.
Twelve heavy crabs.
One-half pint of cream.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Four table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One table-spoonful of lemon juice.
One-quarter of a nutmeg, grated.
One tea-spoonful of mustard.
One and a-half pint of grated bread-crumbs.
One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
Boil the crabs for thirty minutes. Drain- them, break
off the claws and separate the shells, removing the
spongy fingers and the stomach, which is found under the
head. Pick out all the meat, and wash and wipe the
shells. Heat the cream in a small saucepan ; thoroughly
mix the flour and mustard and two table-spoonfuls of the
butter, and stir the mixture into the boiling cream. Boil
two minutes, remove from the fire, and add the crab
meat and seasoning. Mix well, and put the mixture in
the crab-shells. Sprinkle with the crumbs, and place the
remainder of the butter, cut in small pieces, on top of the
crumbs. Cook in a hot oven until the crumbs are brown,
first placing the grate of the oven under the pan, so the
FISH. 1 3 1
heat will not be too great at the bottom. Serve on a bed
of parsley, arranging the claws on it.
CRAW FISH.
These resemble the lobster and are found in most of
our brooks and rivers. They are boiled and served the
same as crabs, or used as a garnish for boiled fish.
SHRIMPS.
Shrimps belong to the lobster species, being the very
smallest of that ilk. They are of two kinds, the gulf
shrimps or prawns being the larger. Shrimps are sold by
the quart, and in some places are vended already cooked.
They are served the same as crabs, in salads and sauces,
and are also used as a garnish.
SCALLOPS.
These shell-fish have round, deeply grooved shells.
The muscle which unites the shells is the only part used
for food. Scallops have a sweet flavor and are in season
during the fall and winter. They are stewed or fried, the
latter way being much the more satisfactory.
FRIED SCALLOPS.
Wash the scallops, drain them and dry thoroughly.
Season fine cracker-crumbs with salt and pepper, dip
the scallops in beaten egg, then in the crumbs, and
fry in hot fat. Or they may be simply seasoned and
rolled in flour and then fried.
MUSSELS.
They are fried like oysters or are stewed. For stewing,
open the mussels, and to a quart of meat allow
1 32 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Two tables-poonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Six whole pepper-corns.
One-half cupful of cream.
Two eggs (yolks only).
Salt and pepper to taste.
Stew the mussels five minutes in their own liquor, and
then add the flour rubbed well into the butter, and the
pepper-corns. Stew ten minutes, and pour in the heated
cream. Set back on the range, and stir in the yolks of
the eggs, which will have been thinned with a table-spoon-
ful of water or milk. Season with salt and pepper, and
serve.
TERRAPIN.
This is served at many fashionable dinners and late
suppers. Terrapins belong to the turtle family and are
found from Rhode Island to the Gulf of Mexico. They
vary considerably in size and quality in different locali-
ties. The finest in winter are very expensive, sometimes
costing from twenty-five to fifty dollars a dozen in the
Northern markets, although they are often to be had for
one-fourth that cost. In the South they are comparatively
cheap and are larger than those found in the North.
There are two ways of killing terrapin. In the North, if
the terrapin is small, it is boiled the same as a lobster;
but in the South the head is cut off and the terrapin
placed in cold water for half an hour, to draw out the
blood, after which it is boiled. The time of boiling
varies with the age of the terrapin. If young, it will
cook in half an hour, but old ones require to boil fully
two hours before they are tender.
FISH. 133
COOKING AND CLEANING TERRAPIN.
If the large Southern variety is used, cut off the head
and let the terrapin lie in cold water half an hour, then
drop it into boiling water and cook for ten minutes.
Pour off the water, and cover the terrapin with cold water,
letting it stand until cool enough to handle easily ; then
take it up, and with a towel rub the nails and black skin
from the legs. Wash the terrapin carefully, place it in a
stew-pan with enough boiling water to cover, and cook
until the flesh is tender, which will be when the joints of
the legs can be broken with a slight pressure, and the
shell will separate easily. Remove from the water, and
after it has cooled a little, place the terrapin on its back,
with the head away from you, and loosen and remove the
under shell. The liver, gall, bladder and sand-bag will
be found near the head end, the gall being attached to
the left side of the liver. Take out the gall as you
would that of a chicken, being very careful not to break
it. If such an accident occur, the entire terrapin will be
ruined, so there should be extra care at this point of the
work. All that remains is used for food. Take out the
eggs, if there are any, remove the slight membrane that
is around them, and drop them into cold water. Cut all
the meat very fine (the intestines finer than any part),
and save any water that may collect in the shells. The
terrapin is now ready to use in a stew or in other
ways. It is most commonly served stewed.
STEWED TERRAPIN,
Two terrapins.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
One pint of cream.
1 34 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
One-half pint of sherry or Maderia.
One-half cupful of water.
Six eggs (yolks).
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
One-fifth of a tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-tenth of a tea-spoonful of mace.
One-tenth of a tea-spoonful of allspice.
One-half of a lemon.
Put the finely cut terrapin in a stew-pan with the water
and butter, the juices that have collected in the shells
and the salt, pepper and spices, and let all simmer
gently for fifteen minutes. Boil the six eggs fifteen
minutes, remove the yolks, mash them very fine, and
gradually mix the cream with them. Add this mixture to
the stew, and also the sherry, the eggs of the terrapin,
and the lemon thinly sliced. Let the stew stand where it
will become well heated, but do not let it boil, or the
cream will break. Serve while hot.
Silver-plated saucepans holding half a pint each are
used for serving this rare dish. One kind is in the shape
of a terrapin, the other round, with a straight handle
and a tightly fitting cover.
SAUCES FOR FISH.
The French undoubtedly understand the making of
sauces better than any other nation. The English make
a drawn-butter sauce and use it as a foundation for many
kinds. By the addition of capers, shrimps, chopped
pickle, lobster, oysters, etc., one has caper, shrimp, lobster
and the other kinds of sauces. The drawn-butter sauce
is simple, yet is often improperly made, being insipid in
taste and lumpy and unappetizing in appearance through
insufficient cooking. The French white sauce differs
FISH. 135
materially from that of the English, since it is made with
strong white stock prepared from veal or chicken, or both,
and with some vegetables for a basis. One shrinks from
using a receipt for sauce that requires stock ; and many
simple receipts are here given which do not call for that
as an ingredient.
In thickening sauces, it should be remembered that
butter and flour should be well cooked together before
the liquid is added, to prevent the flour from tasting
uncooked ; and the butter should be very hot before the
flour is added to it. In butter sauces, however, only
enough butter should be used at first to cook the flour,
the remainder being cut in pieces and added after the
sauce is taken from the fire. In this way the flavor is
preserved.
A mistake that is frequently made in the preparation
of any sauce that is thickened with butter and flour
cooked together, is that the liquid is added to the thick-
ening before the flour and butter have at all cooled.
The stew-pan in which the butter and flour are cooked
should be drawn to a cool part of the range and the
mixture stirred until partially cooled before putting in
the liquid, which should be cold and be added gradually.
The length of time for a sauce to cook varies. It must
be remembered that if the sauce is boiled longer than
ten minutes, the butter will separate and come to the top,
where it can be skimmed off ; this leaves a clear sauce.
If cooked less than this time the butter does not sepa-
rate. Long cooking makes the sauce greasy, unless it
be continued long enough to make the separation of oil
and ingredients complete. In common sauces the quick
method is generally preferred, and if by mistake the
136 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
sauce becomes oily, a little cold water may be added and
the sauce stirred until it begins to boil, when it will be
found perfectly smooth and satisfactory.
DRAWN-BUTTER SAUCE.
One-half cupful of butter (scant).
One pint of boiling water.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Put half the butter into the stew-pan, and when it
bubbles, sprinkle in the flour, and stir well for two
minutes. Draw back on the range, and when slightly
cooled add the boiling water, a little at a time, stirring all
the time until the liquid is thick and smooth. Let the
sauce boil up once, stirring it constantly ; then put back
again, and add the remainder of the butter, cut in pieces,
and also the salt and pepper. When carefully made this
sauce will be like cream ; but if it is not entirely smooth,
strain it before using. Drawn-butter sauce is sometimes
preferred slightly acid, in which case a few drops of
strong vinegar or of lemon juice are added just before
serving.
BROWN SAUCE.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
Two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion.
One table-spoonful of chopped carrot.
One table-spoonful of lemon juice.
One pint of stock or water.
One clove.
One .tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
FISH. 137
Cook the vegetables in the butter very slowly for half
an hour; then place them on a hot part of the range
and cook until slightly browned, stirring all the time
the browning is going on. Add the flour, and stir until
that also is brown. Draw the pan back, and when its
contents are slightly cooled, add the stock and stir until
the whole is well mixed, adding the clove, salt and
pepper. Set the pan back where the sauce will gently
simmer for twenty minutes. Strain, skim off the fat that
comes to the top, add the lemon juice, and serve. Pork
"drippings," or fat that is clear may take the place of
butter, with good results, two table-spoonfuls being used
instead of three.
WHITE SAUCE.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of chopped onion.
Two table-spoonfuls of chopped celery.
One table-spoonful of chopped carrot.
Three table-spoonfuls of flour.
One pint of stock.
One-half cupful of cream or milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Simmer the vegetables in the butter very gently for ten
minutes, being care-ful not to brown them. Then add the
flour, and stir until smooth and frothy. Cool slightly,
and add the stock. When all is smooth, add the salt and
pepper, and boil for five minutes ; then put in the cream.
Let the sauce boil up once, and strain. This is a fine
sauce in which to heat cold fish.
CREAM SAUCE.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter:
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
138 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
One pint of milk.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
Place the butter in a small stew-pan, and when it is hot,
add the flour. Stir well until smooth and frothy. Draw
the pan back, and gradually add the milk. Place it again
on the hot part of the range, and when the sauce boils,
add the salt and pepper. Simmer for three minutes,
add the parsley, and serve. A few drops of onion juice
will improve the flavor, if onion is liked.
TOMATO SAUCE.
One pint of tomato.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One small onion.
One bay-leaf.
One sprig of parsley.
One blade of mace.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Place the tomato, onion, bay-leaf, parsley and mace in
a stew-pan together, and simmer gently for ten minutes ;
then strain through a wire sieve, pulping through all the
tomato but the skin and seeds. Rinse out the stew-pan,
and when it is dry put in the butter. As soon as the but-
ter is hot, add the flour, and cook two minutes. Add to
this the strained tomato, pouring it in gradually. When
all is well mixed, place the sauce on a hot part of the
range ; boil up once, add the salt and pepper, and serve.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE.
This is one of the best sauces for fish.
FISH. 1 39
One-half cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of boiling water.
One-half lemon (juice only).
One-quarter salt-spoonful of pepper.
One salt-spoonful of salt.
Three eggs (yolks only).
Beat the butter to a cream with a silver spoon, add the
yolks of the eggs, one at a time, and beat well ; then add
the lemon juice, salt and pepper. About five minutes
before serving, add the boiling water, a little at a time,
stirring well. Place the bowl in a sauce-pan of boiling
water, and stir rapidly until the sauce thickens like boiled
custard.
SAUCE TARTARE (A COLD SAUCE).
One-half pint of mayonnaise dressing. (See " Salads.")
Three olives.
One cucumber pickle.
One table-spoonful of parsley.
Chop the olives, pickle and parsley very fine, and add
them to the dressing. This sauce will keep a long time.
MAITRE d'HOTEL SAUCE.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One table-spoonful of lemon juice.
- Three-quarter cupful of butter.
One pint of boiling water.
Two eggs (yolks only).
Salt and pepper to taste.
Prepare the same as drawn-butter sauce (see receipt),
and when finished add the lemon juice and chopped
parsley. Let it cool slightly, and add the beaten yolks of
the eggs. Return to the range, and when well heated,
but not to the boiling point, it is ready to use.
140 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
BECHAMEL SAUCE.
One-half pint of veal stock.
One-half pint of cream.
Two eggs (yolks only).
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the butter, and when bubbling, stir in the flour ;
mix until smooth, taking care it does not brown. Add
the stock and cream gradually, and stir until the liquid
boils. Take from the fire, and add the salt and pepper
and the well beaten yolks. Let it stand in a warm place
on the range two minutes, but do not let it boil after the
eggs are added.
EGG SAUCE.
Make a cream sauce (see receipt), and add the whites
of two hard-boiled eggs, chopping them very fine ; then
press the yolks through a wire sieve, and add them also.
The wire potato-masher (see " Kitchen Utensils ") is just
the thing to use for this purpose.
OYSTER SAUCE (FOR BOILED FISH).
One pint of small oysters.
One-third cupful of butter.
Three table-spoonfuls of flour.
One cupful of milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the oysters in their own liquor to boiling point.
Remove them from the fire after they have boiled half a
minute, skim them, and drain off the liquor into another
stew-pan. Rub the butter and the flour to a cream. Add
FISH. I 4 I
the milk to the oyster liquor, and when heated to boiling
point, stir in the creamed butter and flour. Let the
liquid boil up once, season with salt and pepper, add the
oysters, and serve as soon as the latter are heated
through.
LOBSTER SAUCE (FOR BOILED FISH).
One lobster.
One-half pint of drawn-butter sauce (see receipt).
Salt and pepper to taste.
Break up the coral of the lobster, and put it on a paper
in a slow oven for thirty minutes. Then pound it in a
mortar, and sprinkle it over the boiled fish when ready to
serve. Chop the lobster meat, not too fine, and add it to
the sauce, also putting in a pinch of the coral and the
salt and pepper.
The effect is spoiled if the lobster is cut too fine.
The sauce should be like a creamy bed for the lobster.
MUSTARD CREAM.
This is served with baked crabs or roast clams and is
a dainty addition to those dishes.
One cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of mustard.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the milk in a double boiler. Beat the butter,
flour and mustard to a cream, and gradually pour upon
this cream the boiling hot milk, a little at a time. When
well mixed, return all to the boiler, add the salt and
pepper, boil three minutes, and serve.
MEATS.
" With baked and boiled and stewed and toasted,
And fried and broiled and smoked and roasted,
We treat the town."
SALMAGUNDI.
BEEF.
FOR the best cuts of beef see the chapter on " Market-
ing." Directions for roasting, broiling, etc., have been
given in full in the chapter entitled " Plain Directions,"
ROAST BEEF, WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
A rib or sirloin roast should be prepared as directed
for roasting. When within three-quarters of an hour of
being done, have the -pudding ready to put in with the
meat. Butter a pan like that in which the meat is being
cooked, and pour in the pudding. Put the rack upon
which the meat has been roasted across the pan, not in
it. Place the meat on the rack again, return it to the
oven and cook forty-five minutes. If there should be but
one roasting pan, take up the meat, pour off the gravy,
saving it in a separate dish to prepare a gravy for the
beef, and put the pudding in the roasting pan. Cut it in
squares when done, and garnish the beef with these.
Another method is to use a pan that has squares stamped
142
MEATS. 143
in it. This produces even squares, with crust on all the
edges, which cannot be obtained by baking in a flat pan.
Still another way is to heat and oil the iron gem-pans
and pour the batter into them to cook, basting with the
dripping from the roast. When this utensil is used for
baking, there is no necessity for cutting into the pudding,
which always tends to make it heavy, Serve each person
one of the gems with their meat.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
One pint of milk.
Two-thirds of a cupful of flour.
Three eggs.
One scanty tea-spoonful of salt.
Beat the eggs very light, add the salt and milk, and
then pour about half the mixture upon the flour. When
this is perfectly smooth, add the rest of the liquid.
FILLET OF BEEF, WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE.
One sees this dish at almost every dinner party.
Many order it already cooked from the restaurateur, but
his price is heavy, being usually ten dollars for ten
persons. It may be bought from the butcher for one
dollar a pound, and three pounds are quite sufficient
when this dish is to be served as one course. The fillet
is the under side of the loin of beef the tenderloin. The
skin and fat should be removed with a sharp knife, and
also every shred of muscle and ligament. If the fillet is
not then of a good, round shape, skewer it until it is so.
Lard the upper surface (see "Larding.") Dredge well
with salt, pepper and flour, and place it without water
in a small pan. Put in a hot oven for thirty min-
144 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
utes, leaving it the first ten minutes on the lower part of
the oven, and then placing it on the grate for the re-
mainder of the time. This is served with the following
sauce.
MUSHROOM SAUCE.
One forty-cent can of French mushrooms.
Two cupfuls of stock.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
Four table-spoonfuls of butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the butter, and when hot, add the flour and stir
until very brown. Gradually add the stock, setting the
pan back out of the fierce heat. When these ingredients
ate well stirred together, boil up once, add the liquor
from the mushrooms, and also the salt and pepper, and
simmer gently for twenty minutes. Skim off any oil that
may rise to the top, add the mushrooms, simmer for five
minutes more, pour the sauce over the beef, and serve at
once.
BRAISED BEEF.
This mode of cooking is particularly well adapted to
the cheaper pieces of meat, or those that are lacking in
flavor and are tough. Braising is properly done when
vegetables and herbs are used for seasoning meat and
gravy, although these are sometimes omitted and the
meat still said to be braised. This receipt calls for six
pounds of beef. Spread in the braising-pan one-fourth of
a pound of salt pork, cut in slices, and over this spread
two table-spoonfuls each of chopped onion, carrot, turnip
and celery. Lay the meat on this bed, and dredge well
MEATS. 145
with salt, pepper and flour. Cover, and put in a moder-
ately hot oven for half an hour. At the end of this time
add a pint and a-half of water, or if you have it, of soup-
stock, basting the meat with some of the liquid, and again
dredging with salt, pepper and flour. Cook for four
.hours, basting every quarter of an hour. At the end of
two hours add another pint of stock or water ; also mix
two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch with half a cupful of
cold water, and stir this into the juices in the bottom of
the pan. Cook the meat for the last half hour without a
cover, as it should be of a delicate brown. Place it in
the serving-dish; then strain the gravy in the pan, sea-
soning it with salt and pepper if necessary, and pour part
of it on and around the beef, serving the rest in a sepa-
rate dish.
A POT ROAST.
A tough piece of meat may be made very tender by
this mode of cooking. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth,
season with salt and pepper and put it into an iron pot.
Place the latter over a moderate heat, and brown the
meat slowly, turning it frequently ; this will usually take
about twenty minutes. When the roast is well browned,
put in half a pint of boiling water, cover closely, and set
the pot back where the meat will cook slowly. As the
water steams away add a little more, half a pint at a time.
Allow about fifteen minutes to each pound for a piece of
meat that is not tough, but a very tough roast will require
twice that time. Take up the meat, and add a small
quantity of water to the juices in the kettle. Thicken
the gravy with a little flour stirred to a thin paste with
146 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
a little water, and serve in a separate dish. Boiled rice is
generally eaten with a pot roast.
STUFFED BEEFSTEAK.
Use the round for this dish, having it cut half an inch
thick. Lay the steak flat on the meat board, spread over
it with a thin layer of butter, and sprinkle with salt and
pepper.
Take for the stuffing
' One and a-half pint of bread-crumbs.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One small onion.
One large tea spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
Milk to moisten.
Grate the crumbs fine, season with the salt and pepper,
and rub in the butter ; then chop the onion fine, and add
it to the crumbs. Moisten slightly with milk, being care-
ful to put only enough in to soften the crumbs a little.
Spread this stuffing over the steak, placing tiny bits of
butter on top of it. Roll the steak up tightly, rolling
away from rather than towards you, and keeping the
stuffing in at the ends as the beef is rolled up. Wrap
cord or common wrapping twine around the roll, using
plenty of it, and winding it round and round until the
meat is tightly compressed. Place the roll in an iron pot
and roast the same as a pot roast. Remove the strings
after laying the beef on the serving dish, pour the gravy
around and over the meat, and serve hot. This stuffed
steak is sometimes baked, and in that case a little water
should be added to the pan together with any pieces of
suet that have been trimmed off the meat.
MEATS. 147
BEEFSTEAK AND ONIONS.
For this dish the cut may be a porterhouse, a sirloin
or the round ; when expense is to be considered, the last
named cut will be found both economical and palatable.
It should be pounded slightly to make it more tender.
Heat a frying-pan until quite hot, and place the steak in
it, adding no fat at all. Cook until the meat is either
rare or well done, as may be preferred. If the finer cuts
are used, care must be taken that the meat is riot cooked
too long, but the round will need to be fairly well cooked
to make it juicy and tender. Remove the steak to
the serving dish. Slice the onions thin, and turn them
into the pan in which the steak was cooked. Cover the
pan, and cook the onions slowly in the juices from the
steak until they are tender ; then lift them out and place
them on top of the steak. Add a little water to the juices
in the pan, and thicken the gravy with a little flour or
corn-starch wet in a little water. Season with salt and
pepper, and pour over the onions and steak. This gravy
should be a fine brown. Onions cooked this way will
not be as greasy as the dish that is often served under
this name.
HAMBURG STEAK.
Have the butcher chop very fine two pounds of the
round of beef. Press it into a flat steak about three-
quarters of an inch thick, sprinkle with salt, pepper and
flour, lay it in a fine wire broiler, and broil the same as
beefsteak. Spread with butter and serve on a hot dish.
This steak is sometimes shaped into small, thin, flat
cakes and fried in a frying-pan, a little pork, fat or butter
being used to keep the meat from sticking to the pan.
1 4 8 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
A gravy is then made by thickening the juices in the pan,
a little water being added before the thickening. The
gravy should be poured over the meat.
CORNED BEEF.
Put the beef into the pot with enough cold water to
cover it, and when it boils set it back on the range to boil
very moderately. Fast boiling of salted meats renders
them very hard, yet the water must not cease bub-
bling. Skim often. In England carrots are boiled
and served with this dish, and they much improve the
flavor of the beef. They are not put in the pot until
three-quarters of an hour before serving time, and they
are arranged about the meat on the platter. In America
cabbage is generally boiled with the beef. When this is
used, one or two little red peppers, also boiled with the
beef, improve the quality of the dish. When ready to
serve, after taking out the meat, lift the cabbage from
the saucepan, using a skimmer for the purpose. Drain
the cabbage well in a colander, pressing out all the water.
Serve it around the beef or in a separate dish, as may be
liked.
BEEF-HEART, STEWED.
The heart of the ox is very inexpensive, yet it
makes a most delicious dish. Wash the heart well, re-
move the muscles from the inside, and take out every
particle of blood. Make a stuffing of
One cupful of bread-crumbs.
One table-spoonful of chopped onion.
One table-spoonful of chopped celery.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
MEATS. 149
Mix these ingredients well together, and stuff the cavity
of the heart with them. Tie the heart about with twine,
and wrap it in a cloth, sewing the ends together to keep
the stuffing in. Place in a small stew-pan, with the point
of the heart down, and nearly cover with water boiling
hot. Place the lid on the pan, and simmer gently for
three hours. When done, there should be about a pint
of water in the pan. Remove the cloth and place the
heart on a platter. Add a little water to the pan, thicken
the juices with a small quantity of flour or corn-starch,
wet in a little water, and season with salt and pepper.
Pour the gravy over and around the heart.
BAKED HEART.
This is prepared the same as the stew. When done,
the cloth is removed and the heart placed in a pan in a
very hot oven and browned. Serve with the gravy the
same as the preceding.
CREAMED DRIED BEEF.
This makes a very satisfactory breakfast dish. .The
beef should be shaved thin by the butcher.
One-half pound of beef.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of flour.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper.
Place the butter in a stew-pan, and when melted add
the beef. Stir until the slices begin to curl ; then add
the milk. When this boils up, stir in the flour wet with
two table-spoonfuls of milk. Season with the pepper,
and serve on toast or plainly, as preferred.
150 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
BEEF a la Mode.
Two pounds of beef.
Two table-spoonfuls of beef or pork drippings.
One onion, sliced thin.
One bay-leaf.
One lemon, cut in slices.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of ground allspice.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of cloves.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of mace.
The meat used for this purpose may be from the round
or any other part that is lean. Cut it into pieces of
about three ounces weight, and dredge well with flour.
Put the beef drippings and the sliced onion in a large
stew-pan, and when hot, put in the meat and stir con-
stantly for ten minutes. Dredge in more flour until the
mixture is well thickened, adding the bay-leaf, which
should be broken, and sprinkling in the spices, which
should be well mixed together ; add also the salt and
pepper and sliced lemon. When these have been well
stirfed together, pour in gradually, still stirring, enough
water to cover the meat. Place the cover on the stew-
pan, and simmer gently for four hours.
USES FOR COOKED BEEF.
There is a good-sized book written on this subject.
As there are about two hundred ways of utilizing cold
beef, there can never be any excuse for wasting a parti-
cle.
BEEF BALLS.
One large pint of chopped beef.
One scanty pint of fine bread-crumbs.
ME A TS. 151
One and a-half tea-spoonfuls of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of sage.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One egg.
One small stalk of celery.
One sprig of parsley.
One table-spoonful of chopped onion.
Milk to moisten the whole.
The seasoning of these balls may be made with what is
available, the celery, parsley or sage being used if con-
venient; but the onion is a necessity, for the balls are
perfectly tasteless without some seasoning of this sort.
The butter is not used if there is an equal quantity of fat
on the beef. Add the seasoning to the bread-crumbs ;
then chop the onion, celery and parsley fine, and when
they are well mixed, put them with the chopped meat.
Add the beaten egg, mixing all well together; and lastly
stir in the milk. The exact quantity of milk is hard to
give. There should be enough to nicely moisten the mass
so it may be made into smooth cakes. Form the mixture
into cakes with the hands, and flour each side before fry-
ing. They should be cooked for five minutes in very hot
fat.
Lamb or mutton chops that may be left over from a
former meal, or the tough ends of steaks, will do nicely for
these balls.
COOKED BEEF IN TOMATO.
Cut the beef into thin slices, if possible ; if this cannot
be done, have the pieces about the size of a large oyster.
Place them in a frying-pan, and add a few spoonfuls of
canned tomato, nearly covering the meat. Add butter
152 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
salt and pepper, and stew slowly, with the cover on the
pan, for half an hour. Serve on a platter.
BEEF ON TOAST.
Finely chop the beef, which may be the ends of steaks
or the remnants of a roast. Season with salt and pepper.
For each pint of meat stir in a table-spoonful of flour,
mixing thoroughly. Place the meat in a small stew-pan,
and pour in enough milk to nearly cover. Simmer gently
for ten minutes, and add a table-spoonful of butter. It is
better not to use the fat of the beef when chopping it up,
for the butter imparts a much better flavor to the
whole. Toast six slices of bread, arrange them on a
platter, spread the beef upon them, and serve at once.
It is surprising what a really small quantity of meat will
suffice for a breakfast when served in this way.
SHEPHERDS' PIE.
One quart of cold beef.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
One pint of water.
Eight large potatoes.
One cupful of hot milk.
Salt and pepper.
Cut the meat into thin slices, and season with salt
and pepper. Place the meat in an earthenware dish,
and over it pour a sauce made as follows : Put two table-
spoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan, and when hot,
add the flour. Stir until brown, and pour in the water.
Season with salt and pepper, and boil for three minutes.
Pare, boil and mash the potatoes, and add to them the
MEATS. 153
boiling hot milk, the other spoonful of butter, and salt
and pepper to taste. Spread this preparation over the
sauce and bake for thirty minutes. Other meats beside
beef may be used for this dish.
MEAT PIE.
Make a crust as for pies (see " Desserts "), roll it
rather thickly, and line a deep dish with it. Cut the beef
in rather small pieces about the size of an oyster , slic-
ing it thinly if possible. Dredge well with flour, and sea-
son with salt and pepper. Place a thick layer of meat in
the dish, and dot it with small pieces of butter, add
another layer and more butter, and so continue until all
the meat is used. Squeeze a little lemon-juice over all. If
there should be any gravy left from roast meat, add
a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, and pour it over the
meat. In this case use less butter through the meat. If
there is no gravy, add water to the meat to half of its
height, but if gravy is used, and there is not enough to
make up this quantity, add as much water as needful.
Cover the top with a crust, pinching the edge of the
under crust to that of the upper the same as for any
other pie. Bake forty-five minutes.
ESCALLOPED BEEF AND MACARONI.
One-quarter pound of macaroni.
One quart of cooked beef.
One cupful of bread-crumbs.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One pint of water.
Salt and pepper.
I 54 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Boil the macaroni slowly until soft generally about
forty minutes. Make a sauce by rubbing the butter and
flour together and adding a pint of the water the
macaroni was boiled in ; seasoning with salt and pepper.
Place in the baking dish a layer of macaroni, and season
well ; cover with part of the sauce, and arrange a layer of
meat seasoned with salt and pepper ; and continue with
the layers of macaroni, sauce and meat until all the mate-
rials have been used. Cover the last layer with bread-
crumbs, and bake for half an hour. Serve in the same
dish.
BAKED HASH OF RICE AND BEEF.
One cupful of cooked beef.
One cupful of cooked rice.
One cupful of milk.
One egg.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Chop the meat, but not too fine. Put the milk on the
fire, and when hot, add all the other ingredients, except
the egg. Stir for one minute, to insure the whole
being thoroughly hot, remove from the fire, and add the
egg, well beaten. Turn the hash into a baking dish, and
bake twenty minutes. Serve in the same dish. The
hash should be very brown.
BAKED HASH OF POTATO AND BEEF.
Two cupfuls of cooked beef.
One cupful of cold mashed potato.
Two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One-half cupful of water.
Salt and pepper.
ME A TS. 155
Chop the meat, but not too fine, add the cold mashed
potato and the other ingredients, and bake half an hour
or until well browned.
CORNED-BEEF HASH.
One pint of chopped beef.
One pint of potato.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One-half cupful of milk or water.
Salt and pepper.
Chop the potato and the meat separately and rather
fine, seasoning each when chopped. If the beef is very
salt, do not add salt. Mix beef and potatoes together
lightly. Pour the milk in a frying-pan with half the but-
ter, and when warm, turn in the hash, spreading it evenly,
and placing the rest of the butter, cut in pieces, on the
top. Cover the pan, and place it where the hash will
cook slowly for half an hour. There should then be a
rich, thick crust on the bottom. Do not stir the hash.
Fold it the same as an omelette, and place it on a warm
platter. This slow process of heating the hash gives it a
flavor that cannot be obtained by hurried cooking
BEEF-LIVER STEW.
One pound of liver.
One-half lemon.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of cloves.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
Salt and pepper.
Cut the liver in slices, wash them well in lukewarm
salted water, and dry them on a napkin. Place some
pork drippings in a frying-pan, and when hot, fry the liver
I 5 6 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK.
about three minutes. Turn it into a small stew-pan, add
enough water to cover, the lemon cut in slices, all the
spices and sufficient salt and pepper. Cover the pan, and
stew slowly for thirty minutes. When done stir into the
gravy in the pan a little corn-starch wet with water.
Taste, and add more seasoning, if necessary. Serve on a
small platter. This mode of cooking beef liver renders it
tender and sweet.
BEEF KIDNEY.
Beef and sheep kidneys are often recommended for
food on account of their cheapness, and epicures are
fond of them as well. The latest decision of physicians
is that they are not suitable for food, as, " from their con-
stant use in the animal system, as organs which separate
from the blood that which would poison the system if it
remained in the blood, they are often liable to become
diseased." Kidneys may be prepared (for those who
like them) the same as liver stew, in the preceding
receipt.
BEEF TONGUE.
Choose a plump tongue with a smooth skin, which
denotes the age of the animal. If it has been salted and
dried, soak it for twenty hours before boiling, using plenty
of water ; but if it is fresh from the brine, it will need to
be soaked only three or four hours. Put the tongue
into cold water, and let it gradually warm for one hour,
then let it cook slowly for two hours. Plunge it into cold
water, when done, to remove the skin. If the tongue is
perfectly fresh, put it on to cook in boiling hot water,
MEATS. 157
salting the water slightly ; and cook until tender. Serve
by slicing across the tongue. Sandwiches made of tongue
are held in high esteem.
TRIPE.
Tripe is the large stomach of a ruminating animal and
is nutritious and easily digested.
TO PREPARE TRIPE FOR COOKING.
Scald the stomach with boiling water sufficiently to
loosen the inside coating; if this is properly done, the
coating may be easily scraped off. Wash the tripe well
through several boiling waters ; then put it in cold water,
and let it soak over night. Scrape again until white and
clean. Tripe is usually sold in the city markets already
cleaned.
BOILED TRIPE.
Boil the tripe in equal parts of milk and water for half
an hour, boiling at the same time and in the same water
a couple of onions, which should be put in the water at
least half an hour before the tripe is put in to boil.
Skim out the onions when perfectly tender, and make
them into a sauce to pour over the tripe. The sauce is
made as follows :
ONION SAUCE FOR TRIPE.
Drain the cooked onions well and chop them very
fine ; then place them in half a pint of hot milk, and
season with butter, salt and pepper,
I 5 8 TJIE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK.
VEAL.
Very young veal may be known by its small and tender
bones, the flesh having a bluish tinge and a soft, flabby
appearance. When from two to three months old the flesh
is firm and has a pinkish tinge, and the bones are hard.
It is then in its prime. At best veal is an indigestible
meat and contains little nutriment. It has very little
flavor and needs to be well seasoned and thoroughly
cooked to be at all palatable. Despite the prejudice
which prevails, however, the excellent and attractive
dishes of which veal forms the basis are almost with-
out number.
The lower part of the leg, or knuckle, and all the
gristly portions are used for soup. Cutlets or steaks,
the fillet and the fricandeau or cushion are cut from the
thickest part of the leg. The loin is used for chops or
roasts, the breast for roasts and the neck for stews or for
soup. The head is also used for soup, the heart for
stewing and pickling, and the liver in many ways.
ROAST VEAL.
Wipe the meat, dredge with salt, pepper and flour, and
place it in a pan, pouring a little water in the bottom of
the pan. Roast from twenty to thirty minutes for every
pound of veal. -Baste every twenty minutes with half a
pint of warm water into which has been melted a tea-
spoonful of butter, using the liquid in the bottom of the
pan for basting as soon as there is sufficient. Make a
gravy the same as for any roast, using the liquid in the pan.
STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL.
Make an incision between the ribs and the meat to
ME A TS. I 59
form a cavity, in which to place the stuffing. The butcher
will, however, prepare the veal for stuffing, if ordered to
do so. Use for the stuffing
One cupful of bread-crumbs.
One-quarter pound of fat' salt pork.
One tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram.
One tea-spoonful of thyme.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
The pork should be chopped very fine and will make
about a large table-spoonful when chopped. Butter may
be used in its place, if preferred. Roast the same as
directed in the preceding receipt.
VEAL CUTLETS.
Wipe the cutlets, sprinkle them with salt and pepper,
dip them first in beaten egg and then in fine bread or
cracker-crumbs, and fry in drippings until brown. The
cutlets should be thoroughly browned on both sides.
Place them on a platter, add a little water to the gravy in
the pan, and thicken slightly with a table-spoonful of
Hour wet in a little water. Strain the gravy, if it is not
entirely smooth.
VEAL AND HAM.
These are often dressed together. Heat the frying-
pan hot, and fry the ham, using no fat unless the meat is
unusually lean. When the ham is cooked, place it on the
serving dish, and cook the veal in the juices left from the
ham, frying without covering until it is a deep brown.
After the veal is done, add a little water to the gravy,
season with pepper, and pour it without thickening over
l6o THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
the meat. The gravy will scarcely need salt, unless the
ham is rather fresh.
VEAL STEW, WITH DUMPLINGS.
The ends of the ribs, the neck and the knuckle may be
utilized for a stew.
Three pounds of veal.
Two small onions.
Five potatoes.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One cupful of milk.
Salt and pepper.
Cut the meat into pieces the size of a tea-cup, and
place them in a kettle with the onion, salt and pepper
and enough water to just cover them. Simmer gently
until the meat is tender, about an hour being generally
sufficient. Strips of salt pork are sometimes cooked
in with the veal and add much to the flavor. Half
an hour before serving add the potatoes, cut in halves,
and boil them with the meat. Use for the dumplings
One pint of flour.
One-half a large table-spoonful of lard.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Milk to moisten.
Stir the baking-powder and salt into the flour, and rub
in the lard with a spoon until the whole is thoroughly
mixed. Add enough milk to moisten the flour, and
make a dough, taking care not to make the mixture
too wet. Flour the baking-board, roll the dough out
an inch thick, and cut out as for biscuit. Put the pieces
on a plate, set the plate in a steamer over the stew, and
MEATS. l6l
steam twenty minutes. When the dumplings are done,
place them on a platter, and with a skimmer lift the meat
and potato from the kettle and lay them on the platter.
Add the milk and butter to the gravy in the kettle, and
thicken with a little flour stirred to a thin, smooth paste
with water. Pour the gravy over the meat and dump-
lings. If the stew should seem quite boiled down, the
dumplings should be steamed over a separate kettle of
boiling water, as the rapid boiling necessary for their
cooking reduces the stew very much.
Another mode of cooking the dumplings is to boil them
in with the stew ; but they are very apt to be heavy
unless served the moment they are done, which in some
homes is not always possible. The steamed dumplings
can always be relied upon to be light.
VEAL LOAF.
This may be served cold for luncheon or tea, or hot
with the sauce given in the recipe.
Two and a-half pounds of veal.
One-half pound of salt pork.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of chopped onion.
One-half cupful of cracker crumbs.
One-quarter cupful of water or stock.
One egg.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One-half tea-spoonful of sage.
Chop the veal and pork very fine, and add the other
. ingredients, except the butter. Mix all well together
with the hands. Butter a small pan or deep pie-tin, and
ii
1 62 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK.
press the mixture into it like a loaf, making it about three
inches high. Cook for two hours in a rather hot oven,
basting with another half cupful of water or stock in
which the butter has been melted. Serve with the follow-
lowing sauce :
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
One cupful of milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the butter hot, and stir in the flour. When the
above ingredients are well browned, draw the pan back
and slowly add the milk. Boil three minutes, stirring all
the time ; add salt and pepper, and set back to keep hot.
Pour into the sauce the gravy that remains in the pan
after baking the loaf, and having stirred the sauce well,
turn it over the loaf and serve.
JELLIED VEAL.
Any cheap pieces of veal will do for this dish, which is
very nice for luncheon or supper.
Three pounds of veal.
One table-spoonful of chopped onion.
One-half table-spoonful of sage or any other herbs available.
Salt and pepper.
Cut the meat in pieces, and stew slowly in a very little
water. When tender take it from the kettle and chop
fine. Then return the meat to the kettle, with the water
it was cooked in, and add salt and pepper, the sage and
onion, and a bit of celery or parsley if it is to be had,
chopping all the vegetables very fine. Cook ten minutes,
and pour into a square tin. When cold cut into slices
MEATS. 163
and serve. Care should be taken not too use too much
water for cooking the veal.
STUFFED PEPPERS. (A SOUTHERN DISH.)
This is one of the most satisfactory ways of using cold
veal. The peppers should be large and green and not
too thick. Carefully cut round the tops of the peppers
about half an inch from the stem, dig out all the seeds,
and cut out the " partitions " or thick pieces inside the
peppers. Soak the peppers and tops in salted water over
night, changing for fresh water in the morning. Chop the
veal rather fine, and season with salt, but no pepper.
Wipe the peppers dry, place in each, as it is being pre-
pared, a small piece of butter, and fill it with the chopped
veal, placing another bit of butter on top of the meat.
Fit the tops, and sew them on with coarse thread.
When all are stuffed and sewed, place them in a kettle
with water enough to nearly cover them, adding a table-
spoonful of butter to the water. Stew slowly, turning
the peppers occasionally, until they look shiny and semi-
transparent. This will take a full hour. Take them up
very carefully with a skimmer so they will not break, lay
them on the serving dish, and carefully remove the
threads. Thicken the gravy in the kettle with a little
flour or corn-starch wet in a little water, adding salt if
needed, and, if not very rich, adding also a spoonful of
butter. Pour this on the peppers, and serve. Should
there be any gravy left from a roast of veal, turn it into
the kettle before stewing the peppers ; and in this case
use no butter.
If it should be found necessary to hurry this dish, the
peppers may be soaked on the back of the range by plac-
164 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
ing them in cold water and changing the water as soon as
well warmed ; in this way, with frequent changes, the
peppers will soak sufficiently to make them edible in
four hours. This dish may seem difficult to prepare, but
it is really easy and fully repays the little " fussing " that
many weary of in work of any kind.
k fricandeau OF VEAL.
This is by far the choicest considered cut of the
veal, and is a thick piece of lean meat cut from the top
of the leg. It is always trimmed high in the center, and
thin at the outside, making really a little mound of meat.
Lard the top, and braise it in a braising pan the same as
braised beef. When done, dish the meat, very slightly
thicken the juices in the bottom of the pan, strain, and
turn the gravy over the fricandeau.
CALF'S LIVER AND BACON.
Calf's liver is considered quite a delicacy and is always
expensive. It is rarely served without bacon as an
accompaniment. Cut the bacon in very thin slices,
place them in a hot frying-pan, and turn constantly until
all are crisp ; then take them up and keep hot. Cut
the liver a-quarter of an inch thick, wash it in cold water,
and dry on a napkin. Place the frying-pan where the
heat will not be so great as when the bacon was cooked,
and fry the liver ten minutes, turning it frequently.
Place the liver in the center of the platter, with the bacon
around it as a garnish.
Stir a table-spoonful of flour into the hot fat in the
pan, and stir until brown. Set the pan back, and grad-
ually add enough boiling water to make the gravy. Sea-
MEATS. 165
son with pepper and salt, and pour the gravy over the
liver and bacon. Slow cooking spoils bacon, and rapid
cooking hardens and toughens liver.
CALF'S LIVER, CREAMED.
Two pounds of liver.
One pint of milk.
Five table-spoonfuls of butter.
Three tea-spoonfuls of flour.
One slice of onion.
Salt and pepper.
Cut the liver in small pieces, cover with cold water for
ten minutes, and drain. Heat the butter, put in the liver,
seasoning it with salt and pepper, and cook slowly eight
minutes, browning it on all sides ; then take up the liver,
and place it where it will keep warm. Place the onion in
the frying-pan, and cook one minute ; add the flour, and
cook, constantly stirring, until it begins to froth. Draw
the pan back, gradually add the cold milk and cook one
minute, stirring all the time. Place the liver in the pan
with the gravy, cover the pan, and stew very slowly five
minutes longer. This is a pleasant dish for breakfast,
luncheon or tea.
LIVER HASH.
One pint of cooked liver.
One cupful of cold water.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of flour.
One tea-spoonful of lemon-juice.
Salt and pepper.
Cut the liver into pieces the size of a penny, and meas-
ure after cutting. Heat the butter, and stir in the flour,
1 66 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
cooking and stirring until brown ; then add the water
gradually, and season with salt and pepper. Place the
liver in this sauce, and simmer very gently twenty min-
utes. Add the lemon juice, and serve very hot.
BAKED CALF'S LIVER, WITH STUFFING.
Wash the liver well in cold, salted water. Make an
incision in the thickest part with a long, narrow, sharp
knife, enlarging the aperture where the blade enters as
little as possible, but moving the point of the knife to
and fro to increase the size of the cavity inside. Fill
with the following stuffing :
One pint of bread-crumbs.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half a small onion.
Sage, celery and parsley, if at hand
Chop the onion fine, place it in a bowl, and pour
scalding water on it. Let it stand only a half minute,
when pour the water off ; this takes away the very rank
taste of the onion. Rub the butter well into the crumbs,
using the hands ; this should be done at least half an
hour before the stuffing is needed, as the flavor will be
greatly improved by the butter and crumbs remaining
together for a time. Add a tea-spoonful of each of the
herbs, if they are available, and also the onion and the
salt and pepper ; the stuffing is then ready to use. This
makes a delightfully crumbly stuffing, not the paste that
is often called by that name.
After filling the liver with stuffing, season with salt
and pepper, and flour it. Place it in a roasting pan,
MEATS. 167
adding a little water, and lay strips of fat pork over the
liver. Roast for one hour. Baste every twenty minutes,
the first time with half a pint of water in which has been
placed a table-spoonful of butter, and afterward with
the gravy in the pan. When the liver is done, place it on
a hot platter, thicken the gravy in the pan the same as
for any roast (See " Roasting "), and pour it around
and over the liver.
CALF'S HEAD. TO CLEAN.
A calf's head may usually be purchased from the
butcher already cleaned, but for the benefit of those who
prefer, or are compelled, to clean it themselves, the
proper mode of procedure is here given. Place the head
in warm water for five minutes ; then lift it out and pow-
der the hair with pulverized resin. The resin is not in-
dispensable, but it facilitates the operation. Have ready
a large kettle of scalding water, and after using the pow-
der, plunge the head into the kettle, covering every part.
Raise it after one minute, hold it by the ear, and care-
fully scrape off all the hair. Then lay the head on a
board, saw it in halves lengthwise through the skull, and
take out the eyes, brain and tongue. Scrape the ear,
nasal and throat passages well, scalding them if they
do not seem perfectly clean ; and remove the gristle that
is around the nose. Break the jaw-bone, remove the
gums and teeth, and lay the head in a large panful of
water to soak.
Half a head is generally enough to serve at one time.
STEWED CALF'S HEAD,. WITH BRAIN SAUCE.
Put the head in slightly salted water, and boil until
1 68 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
the meat is tender; then take it up, and drain well.
Score the top a little, rub it over with melted butter,
dredge with flour, and place it in the oven in a baking
pan to brown. When browned, pour over the head the
following sauce :
BRAIN SAUCE.
Soak the brains for half an hour in cold water. Re-
move the membrane that covers them, and make sure
they are perfectly white and free of blood-filled veins
by cleansing them again and again in fresh water. Place
them in a piece of cheese-cloth, tie the ends, and stew
them half an hour in enough water to cover ; then take
them out, remove the cloth, after draining well, and
mash them with the back of a strong spoon. Add
.gradually, that the mixture may not be lumpy, a small
tea-cupful of the water in which the head was boiled ; also
season with salt and pepper, a large spoonful of butter, a
pinch of sage and powdered cloves, and a tea-spoonful of
chopped parsley, if it is available. Set the sauce on the
fire to simmer gently while the head is browning.
CALF'S HEAD CHEESE.
One calf's head.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonfnl of summer savory.
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One tea-spoonful of chopped onion.
One tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of sage.
Place the head in enough hot water to cover it, and
simmer until the meat will leave the bone. Take out the
MEATS. 169
head very carefully on a skimmer, remove the bones,
chop the meat, and add the seasoning. Have ready a
small bag made of cheese-cloth, pack the mixture into it,
tie the bag tightly, and hang it away to cool. When
cold, turn the bag wrong side out off the meat. Serve
cold for lunch or tea, cutting the cheese into thin slices.
Two sets of brains.
One pint of bread-crumbs.
One egg.
One table-spoonful of vinegar.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One-half of a tea-spoonful of flour.
One-half of a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One-half of a tea-spoonful of onion juice.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper.
Soak the brains for two hours in warm water, free
them from the skin and large fibres, and wash in cold
water. Tie them loosely in a piece of thin muslin,
and place in enough boiling water to cover, adding the
vinegar to the water. Boil thirty minutes, take out the
brains, and plunge them into cold water. When cold,
drain, and cut them into small pieces. Now make
a sauce thus : Place the butter in a frying-pan, and when
hot, add the flour. Stir until smooth and frothy, and
then gradually add the milk. As soon as the liquid
boils, add the parsley, onion juice and half the pepper
and salt, the other half being sprinkled on the brains.
Beat the egg, and add it to the brains, mixing well.
Spread a layer of crumbs on the bottom of a baking-dish,
1 70 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK:.
then half the brains, then a layer of the sauce, and finally
a layer of crumbs. Again arrange a layer of brains and
sauce, and finish with crumbs. Bake twenty minutes in a
moderate oven. It makes the dish richer, but not so
delicate, to strew bits of butter on the top layer of
crumbs. Serve in the dish the scallop is made in.
SWEETBREADS.
Sweetbreads are two glands lying along the back of the
throat and breast. The lower one is round and compact,
and is called the " heart " sweetbread, because nearer the
heart ; the upper or " throat " sweetbread is long and
narrow and is easily divided into sections. The connect-
ing membrane is sometimes broken and each gland sold
as a whole sweetbread, but there should always be two.
The sweetbreads of calves and young lambs are those
used for food. Lamb sweetbreads are usually left in the
fore-quarter and are rarely cooked separately. They are,
however, sometimes sold by the pound or pair like those
of veal.
Sweetbreads are prime only so long as the animal is
fed chiefly on milk ; for when the beast is fed on grass
for on}y one or two weeks before being slaughtered, the
sweetbreads will be dark, flabby, and tough, whereas if
fed on milk they will be white, firm and tender. They
spoil very quickly and cannot be kept long, even on ice.
Sweetbreads should be put in cold water as soon as pur-
chased, and parboiled before being used in any other
form. They were formerly thrown away as worthless,
but the demand for them has so increased, that now they
are considered a luxury and are rarely sold in the larger
cities for less than thirty cents a pair, while in the winter
MEATS. 171
they often bring as much as a dollar and a-half a pair.
They are cheapest in the late spring and summer.
TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS.
Remove the pipes and membranes, soak the sweet-
breads for one hour in cold water. At the end of this
time place them in slightly salted, boiling water, and
boil for fifteen minutes. In parboiling sweetbreads
always use a porcelain or granite-ware saucepan, and
also use a silver knife for cutting, as they contain a
peculiar phosphoric acid that acts upon iron or tin in
such a way as to entirely destroy their own flavor. When
they have boiled fifteen minutes, place them in cold
water for five minutes ; then take them up, drain and
dry them, and put in the coldest place available until
needed for use.
FRIED SWEETBREADS.
Parboil as directed, and cut the sweetbreads in even-
sized pieces; sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip them
first in beaten egg and then in bread or cracker-crumbs,
and fry in hot lard. When well browned on both sides,
place them on a platter. Turn out part of the fat in
which they were fried, leaving in the pan only a table-
spoonful. Stir into this hot fat a table-spoonful of flour,
and stir well until frothy ; then set the pan back a little
and gradually add a cupful of milk, stirring all the
time. Season with salt and pepper, and cook about two
minutes. Strain, and pour over the sweetbreads. Fried
sweetbreads are served in many ways. They are often
dished with green peas, cooked rather dry and placed in
a mound or little hill in the center of the platter, the
I 72 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
sweetbreads being laid around. Macaroni may be boiled
very tender and laid on the platter and the sweetbreads
placed in the center, the pipes of the macaroni being laid
about them like a little nest.
BAKED SWEETBREADS.
One pair of sweetbreads.
One-third of a medium-sized onion.
Four slices of carrot.
One stalk of celery.
One sprig of parsley.
Place in the bottom of a baking dish a few thin slices
of salt pork, and on these lay the sweetbreads, which
should have been parboiled as directed. Over the sweet-
breads sprinkle the vegetables chopped fine, and bake for
twenty minutes in a hot oven. Cut a large slice of bread
into an oval shape, fry it brown in a frying-pan, and
place the sweetbreads on it. Serve with peas or with
tomato sauce (see index).
STEWED SWEETBREADS.
Parboil as directed, and put the sweetbreads in a very
little 'water to stew. When tender, add for each sweet-
bread a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley and a-quarter
of a cupful of cream, and season with salt and pepper.
Let them simmer for five minutes, when served in a cov-
ered dish with the gravy.
SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.
Two pairs of sweetbreads.
One-half pint of cream.
One-third tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half tea-spoonful of parsley.
MEATS. 173
Four table-spoonfuls of mushrooms.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One table-spoonful of lemon juice.
One table-spoonful of salt.
Two eggs.
Parboil and cool the sweetbreads as directed, and chop
them rather fine ; then add the chopped mushrooms, and
also the seasoning. Put the cream on the fire, and heat
slowly. Rub the flour and butter well together, and stir
them into the cream when it boils, stirring until smooth.
Now add the sweetbread mixture, stir well, and simmer
for three minutes. Next put into the boiling mass the
well beaten eggs, stir quickly, and remove from the
fire at once. Pour this mixture on a platter and set it
away to cool, allowing at least two hours for the purpose.
Shape into cylinders with the hands, roll them in beaten
egg and then in bread or cracker-crumbs, and fry in
plenty of hot lard, using the frying basket, if you have
one. Serve with white sauce or Bechamel sauce (see
index).
MUTTON.
In England mutton is always hung some time before
being used and is always delicious ; but if hung the same
length of time in American air, the meat would be simply
unfit to eat. This is not generally understood, but the
fact remains the same, nevertheless.
Mutton has a strong flavor that is disagreeable to
many ; it is said to be caused by the oil from the wool,
which penetrates the fat. In chops the pink -skin above
the fat should always be removed. The caul or lining
1 74 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
membrane of the abdomen is wrapped around the leg
when offered for sale in the markets, and is often left on
in roasting to help baste the meat. Some cooks affirm
that it imparts a strong flavor to the meat and, therefore,
remove it before roasting, basting with some of the kid-
ney fat, if necessary. The wisdom or consistency of this,
however, is open to doubt. The best roasts are the leg,
the saddle and the shoulder. Mutton is generally served
rare, but this is a matter of taste.
BOILED LEG OF MUTTON, WITH CAPER SAUCE.
Put the mutton in a kettle, pour over it boiling water
sufficient to cover, and add a cupful of well washed rice,
which will render the mutton whiter and more tender.
When the water boils, skim it carefully, and allow it to
boil rapidly fifteen minutes ; then set the kettle where
the boiling will be gentle but constant, and allow fifteen
minutes to each pound, if the meat is desired rare.
Serve with
CAPER SAUCE.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
One table-spoonful of lemon juice.
Three table-spoonfuls of capers.
One-half cupful of butter
One pint of boiling water.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Beat the flour and butter to a cream, and add the boil-
ing water. Set the mixture on the fire, and stir it con-
stantly until heated to the boiling point ; then put in sea-
soning, lemon juice and capers, and serve, either by
MEATS. 175
pouring it over the leg of mutton or else in a separate
dish, as may be preferred.
Another and very superior way of finishing a leg of
mutton is to salt and pepper it after taking it from the
water, dredge well with flour, place it on a meat-rack
in a dripping-pan, and brown half an hour in a very hot
oven. If this is done, but ten minutes to a pound will
suffice in the boiling.
BAKED LEG OF MUTTON.
Wipe the mutton with a damp cloth, sprinkle it with
salt, pepper and flour, and place on a meat-rack in a
roasting-pan ; add a cupful of water in the pan and
roast in a hot oven, allowing fifteen minutes to a pound.
Baste every ten minutes, adding more water, if needed,
and dredging with a slight sprinkle of flour, salt and
pepper at each basting. When done serve on a platter.
Place the dripping-pan upon the top of the stove, and
drain off all but two table-spoonfuls of the fat. Add
a little water, and thicken with a small quantity of flour
wet to a paste in cold water, adding a little of the paste at
a time and stirring constantly until the gravy is of the
desired consistency. Pour a couple of spoonfuls of the
gravy on the meat just before sending it to table, and
place the remainder in a sauce-boat. Always serve
currant or some other tart jelly with roast mutton.
MUTTON a la Venison.
Wash a saddle of mutton inside and out with cider
vinegar. Do not wipe it, but hang up to dry in a cold,
.dry place not in the cellar if it can possibly be avoided,
as the moisture of a cellar is disastrous to meat.
1 76 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
When the vinegar has dried on the meat, throw a clean
cloth about it to keep off any possible dust. Sponge
in this way every other day for two weeks. When
ready to cook, wipe the meat with a cloth, but do not
wash it. Roast the mutton, basting for the first hour
with butter and water, and afterward with the gravy in
the pan. Add to the gravy just before serving half a tea-
cupful of walnut, mushroom or tomato catsup, and a glass
of Madeira, making the gravy the same as directed in the
preceding recipe. Mutton prepared in this way strongly
resembles venison.
STUFFED AND ROLLED SHOULDER OF MUTTON.
Have the butcher remove the bones from a shoulder
piece. Wipe the meat carefully, and dredge with flour,
after sprinkling with salt and pepper. Make the follow-
ing
STUFFING.
One pint of bread-crumbs.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half an onion.
One tea-spoonful of dried herbs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Rub the butter and crumbs well together, and let them
stand at least an hour. Chop the onion fine, pour boil-
ing water over it, and drain off almost immediately.
This removes the rank taste'of the onion. Add the chop-
ped onion to the crumbs, and also the salt and pepper, and
MEATS. 177
the herbs, if there are any. Spread the meat with this
dressing, roll it up, and skewer it together, or else tie it
around with clean twine if there are no skewers. Put
half a pint of water in the bottom of the baking pan, and,
placing the meat on a rack (see " Kitchen Utensils "), roast
the same as directed for a baked leg of mutton, basting
frequently. Allow about twenty minutes to a pound in
baking with a stuffing.
MUTTON STEW.
Three pounds of shoulder of mutton.
One-half pound of _salt pork.
One large onion.
One cupful of milk.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
Salt and pepper.
The inferior parts of the sheep will do well for this
dish, which makes an economical dinner. Trim the
mutton of every particle of fat, and cut it into pieces half
the size of a tea-cup ; nearly cover with hot water, place
it on the fire and let it simmer slowly, closely covered, for
half an hour. Then add the pork and onion, season to
taste with salt and pepper, and stew slowly until the meat
is tender. Lift the meat out with a skimmer, and place
it on the serving dish ; and add the milk to the gravy in
the kettle. When the gravy is hot, add the flour stirred to
a paste with a little cold milk. When these are well cooked
together, taste the gravy, and add more seasoning if nec-
essary ; then pour it over the mutton, and serve. If green
corn is in season, add the grains from six ears an
hour before the stew is done.
178 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
SCALLOPED MUTTON.
One pint of cold, chopped meat.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of flour.
One cupful of water.
Chop the meat rather coarsely, and add the salt and
pepper. Heat the butter, and stir in the flour ; when
browned darkly, add the water, and season the gravy
thus made with salt and pepper. Arrange alternate
layers of meat and gravy in a baking dish, using three
layers of gravy and two of the mutton, thus ending with
gravy. Cover the top with a light sprinkling of bread-
crumbs, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. This
dish may be prepared the day before, if needed for break-
fast, and set in a cold place.
FRENCH CHOPS.
These are cut from the ribs and are trimmed by the
butcher, who removes all the fat and scrapes the bone
clean for a little distance from the end. Broil over
a quick fire, adding salt, pepper and butter before
serving. These chops may also be cooked by frying, in
which case they are first seasoned with salt and pepper
and dipped in beaten egg and then in cracker-crumbs.
French chops may be prettily served by making a mound
of mashed potatoes and laying the chops around it, with
the bone end upward and resting upon the potatoes.
These chops are generally served with peas.
ME A TS. 1 79
MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH SPANISH SAUCE.
Have the cutlets cut from the ribs, one inch and a-half
thick, and trimmed like French chops. With a sharp
knife split each chop in two without separating the meat
from the bone. Then make the following filling for six
chops :
Four table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms.
One table-spoonful of choppedP onion.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Three table-spoonful of water or stock.
One tea-spoonful of parsley.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-fifth of a tea-spoonful of pepper.
Cook the butter and onion together for five minutes,
add the mushrooms and seasoning, and cook for five min-
utes longer. Add the flour, and stir well ; then put in
the water, and cook three minutes. Turn the filling out
on a plate and when cool, spread it inside the chops, pres-
sing them lightly together.
Broil for eight minutes over a clear fire, arrange on a
warm platter, and pour over them the
SPANISH SAUCE.
One and a-quarter pints of stock.
One ounce of lean ham.
One bay-leaf.
Three table-spoonfuls of gelatine.
Four table-spoonfuls of flour.
Four table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion.
One table-spoonful of chopped carrot.
180 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
One table-spoonful of chopped celery.
One sprig of parsley.
Two cloves.
A bit of mace.
Salt and pepper.
Soak the gelatine an hour in a little of the stock ;
also cook the butter and the vegetables together for ten
minutes, being careful to avoid burning; then add the
flour, and when browc, draw the pan back, gradually add
the stock, and boil three minutes, stirring all the time.
Add the herbs and spice, and place the vessel where
the sauce will simmer for two hours. Add the gelatine at
the end of that time, and cook fifteen minutes. Skim the
fat off and strain, when it is ready to pour on the cutlets.
Cutlets prepared in this way are considered one of the
most fashionable entrees for company dinners,
MUTTON CROQUETTES (AN Entree).
One pint of chopped meat.
One cupful of milk or cream.
Two eggs.
One table-spoonful of lemon juice.
One-half of a table-spoonful of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
One-half of a tea-spoonful of pepper.
Chop the meat rather fine, and add the salt, lemon-
juice and pepper. Put the milk in a small frying-pan.
Stir the butter and flour to a cream, and when the milk
boils, stir in the mixture slowly. Coo"k one minute, stir-
ring all the time ; then add the chopped meat, and let all
boil together three minutes. Beat the eggs, add them,
ME A TS. 1 8 1
stirring thoroughly, and remove from the fire at once ;
turn out the whole upon a platter to cool. Sprinkle a
board lightly with crumbs ; and when the mixture is cool,
take a spoonful in the hands, shape it to a cylindrical
form, and roll it lightly upon the board. Continue thus
until all the croquettes have been formed, being careful to
roll each one in the crumbs. When all are done, dip
each in beaten egg and again in crumbs, and fry in a fry-
ing-basket. The croquettes should brown in two minutes
if cooked in this way. Those who have not a frying-bas-
ket may use a frying-pan, cooking the croquettes until
they are a nice brown color. The fat must be very
hot or the croquettes will break. If this dish should be
desired for breakfast, the croquettes may be shaped the
day before and kept in a cool place, being dipped in the
egg and the second covering of crumbs in the morning.
If onion is liked, a tea-spoonful of onion juice may be
added with the other seasoning.
MUTTON AND OYSTER SAUSAGES.
One pound of rare cooked meat.
One table-spoonful of salt.
One- half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-third pound of beef suet.
One pint of oysters.
One-half a pint (scant) of bread-crumbs.
Two eggs.
One onion.
One table-spoonful of herbs.
Chop the meat very fine, and add the seasoning, which
may be more than that given above, a bit of celery, pars-
ley and any herbs available being proper. Chop the suet
1 82 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
very fine, and also the oysters ; then mix all well
together, form into small balls, and fry. A couple of
anchovies may be added to the seasoning.
LAMB.
The best roasts are the fore and hind quarters. Lamb
will not keep like mutton, and it should be used not
longer than three days after killing. Like veal, it should
be thoroughly cooked.
ROAST LAMB, WITH MINT SAUCE.
If the roast is from the breast, make a stuffing as
directed for a rolled shoulder of mutton on page 176, and
fill the place made for the stuffing. Wipe the meat,
dredge with salt, pepper and flour, place a cupful of
water in the roasting-pan, and roast the meat on a rack,
basting often and allowing fifteen minutes to a pound.
Serve hot on a platter. Accompanying the roast in a
separate dish will be the
MINT SAUCE.
Pick the leaves from the mint stalks until there is half
a pint. Wash the leaves, drain well, and place them
in an earthenware bowl. Then, using a knife and
fork, cut them into very small pieces. Do not use a
wooden bowl, for half of the mint oil will be absorbed by
the wood. When the mint is well chopped, stir in a
table-spoonful of sugar, mix thoroughly, and pour in half
a pint of hot vinegar. Cover tightly, and serve after
three minutes. Some cooks pour the vinegar on cold,
and serve the same after it has stood one hour. This is
a matter of taste.
MEATS. 183
LAMB CHOPS.
These are broiled the same as French chops. When
intended to be served at a luncheon as an entrke, they are
broiled in paper cases, in the following manner: Mold
and cut sheets of thick white writing-paper, so that when
opened they will be heart-shaped, making each sheet
nine by four and a-half inches in size. Dip the cases in
olive oil or melted butter, being careful that no part re-
mains unoiled. Have the chops cut from the ribs and
prepared the same as French chops. Season with salt
and pepper, and dip them in melted butter. Place
each chop on one side of a paper, with the bone toward
the center, fold the paper together, and roll the edges to
keep them closed. Broil eight minutes over a moderate
fire. Serve on a hot dish in the papers in which they
were broiled. The success of paper broiling lies in get-
ting every part of the paper well oiled. The broiler
should be turned almost constantly while the chops are
cooking.
BROILED BREAST OF LAMB.
This is a very delicious dish, but the broiling must
be done carefully. The fire should not be too bright
or the meat will soon scorch. Lay the inside of the
meat toward the fire first and broil very moderately,
turning the meat often. When done, butter slightly, and
season with salt and pepper. The breast of lamb is sold
in most markets with the fore-leg attached ; this should
be cut off before the piece is broiled, for, being so thick
in comparison with the rest of the piece, it is difficult
to cook it sufficiently. A stew may be made of the leg
piece, or it may go with other pieces to make soup.
1 84 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
PORK.
This is an unwholesome meat, and is very undesirable
for children and people with weak digestions. It should
never be seen on the table, except in cold weather, unless,
of course, in the form of smoked meat (ham or bacon).
Salt pork, bacon and ham are less objectionable than
fresh pork ; in fact, salt pork and bacon should always be
kept at hand in the kitchen to use in cooking other meats.
In the country remote from the markets it is next to im-
possible even in summer for the housekeeper to pro-
vide for the table without a generous supply of bacon,
ham and salt pork; but the danger is less in these
homes, for the animals are fed on corn, and generally are
so cared for that diseased meat is almost an impossi-
bility.
There is no part of the pig that is not used ; conse-
quently to the poor man he is a very profitable animal.
Pork requires a great deal of cooking, for when under-
done the danger from eating it is very much increased.
ROAST LITTLE PIG.
The pig should be about three weeks old. The
butcher draws and scrapes it, but the cook must clean it.
Cover the point of a wooden skewer with a piece of soft
cloth, and work the -skewer into the ears to clean them.
Cleanse the nostrils in the same way, and also the vent
near the tail. Scrape the tongue, lips and gums with a
sharp knife, wipe them with a soft cloth, and take out the
eyes. Wash the pig well with cold water, wipe dry, and
rub a table-spoonful of salt on the inside of the pig.
Make the following
MEATS. 185
STUFFING FOR ROAST PIG.
Three pints of bread-crumbs.
Three tea-spoonfuls of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One table-spoonful of powdered sage.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
One chopped onion.
Mix well together first rubbing the butter into the
crumbs, and then adding the seasoning; and fill the body
with the stuffing. Press the fore-feet forward and the
hind-feet backward, and skewer them to position. Force
the mouth open, and place a small block of wood between
the teeth. Butter two sheets of paper and pin them
about the ears. Sprinkle the pig with salt, rub it all over
with soft butter, and dredge with flour. Then place it
in the roasting-pan, and cook at least three hours and
a-half, basting every fifteen or twenty minutes with butter
or salad oil, and sprinkling lightly with salt and flour after
each basting. Water should not be used, if the surface
of the meat is desired crisp. Remove the paper from the
ears during the last half hour. When ready to serve, re-
move the block from the mouth, inserting in its place a
small ear of corn or a small lemon. Serve apple sauce
with this dish. In carving a roast pig, the head is cut
off first, the meat split down the back, the hams and
shoulders taken off and the ribs separated. A portion of
the stuffing is served to each person.
ROAST LEG OF PORK.
The pieces used for roasting are the spare-rib, the
chine or loin, the leg and the shoulder. If the leg is to
be roasted, score the skin in squares, or in parallel lines
1 86 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
running from side to side. Put very little water in the
pan under the meat, sprinkle the latter with salt and pep-
per, dredge lightly with flour, and roast twenty-five min-
utes to a pound. Pour off all but two table-spoonfuls of
the fat. Place the pan on top of the stove, and when
hot, stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour. Cook one min-
ute, and add a pint of hot water, stirring constantly. Let
the gravy cook three minutes, and season with salt and
pepper. Those who do not object to a hint of onion in
flavoring will find it a great addition to place a small
onion in the pan while the meat is roasting. This, of
course, is removed before the gravy is made ; but it takes
off the extreme " pig " flavor that is so disagreeable and
noticeable in old pork.
ROAST LOIN OR SHOULDER.
The loin and the shoulder are roasted the same as the
leg, twenty minutes to a pound being allowed for the loin
and twenty-five minutes for the shoulder.
ROAST SPARE-RIB.
Trim off the ends neatly, crack the ribs across the mid-
dle, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. When the meat
is first put in to roast cover it with greased paper until
half done ; then remove the paper and dredge with flour.
In ten minutes baste once with butter and afterward
every fifteen minutes with the gravy. This is a necessity,
for the spare-rib is a very dry piece. Just before taking
the pork from the oven, strew its surface with bread-
crumbs seasoned with a little powdered sage, salt and pep-
per, and a bit of onion minced as fine as possible. Cook
five minutes, and baste once more. Make the gravy as
ME A TS. 1 87
directed for a roast leg of pork; strain, and pour it over
the meat or serve in a gravy dish, as may be preferred.
Spare-ribs may be filled with the stuffing given for a roast
little pig, half the quantity specified being used. The ribs
are cracked crosswise the entire length in two places, and
the stuffing is placed in the center and the two ends
folded over and tied.
BROILED PORK STEAK.
When pork is to be broiled, it should be cut very thin
indeed, and salted and peppered. Many cooks wrap
greased paper around the meat.
The broiling of pork is a delicate operation, since the
meat must be so thoroughly cooked.
FRIED PORK CHOPS.
Place a table-spoonful of drippings in a frying-pan.
Dust the chops with salt, pepper and flour, and fry slowly
until of a fine brown. Thicken the gravy in the pan as
directed for the roasts, and pour it over the meat.
PORK TENDERLOINS.
These are the choicest cuts of the pork and correspond
to the fillet of beef. They are solid meat, and although
rather high-priced, are not as expensive as would at first
appear, since there is no bone or waste of any kind.
They are split lengthwise and fried the same as pork
chops.
FRIED SALT PORK, WITH CREAM GRAVY.
. Cut the slices thin, and place them in cold water.
After they have soaked an hour, drain well and dry
1 88 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
them on a napkin. Heat the frying-pan very hot. Place
half a cupful of flour on a plate, and, dipping each piece
of meat in it, fry until crisp. Drain off all but two table-
spoonfuls of the fat and stir two table-spoonfuls of
flour into that remaining in the pan. Cook for two
minutes, stirring well ; then draw the pan back on the
range, and slowly add a pint of milk. When the gravy
is smooth and well mixed together, cook only a min-
ute, and add pepper, and salt also if needed. Turn the
gravy over the meat, and serve. This is the most deli-
cious way of preparing salt pork and makes a very satis-
factory breakfast dish.
SOUSE, OR PIGS' FEET.
Clean the feet carefully, and pour over them hot water
sufficient to cover. Boil slowly until the meat will sepa-
rate from the bones ; then take them up carefully on a
skimmer, and place them in a stone jar, taking out the
largest bones. Set the water aside in a cool place to be
used later.
Allow a quart of strong vinegar to four good-sized
feet and uppers (which are always sold with the feet).
Place the vinegar on the fire, adding
Four bay-leaves.
One table-spoonful of whole cloves.
One table-spoonful of broken cinnamon.
One-quarter of a tea-cupful of salt.
Two tea-spoonfuls of pepper.
One-half an onion, cut in eighths.
One blade of mace.
Steep all these slowly in the vinegar for forty-five min-
utes, being careful that the vinegar does not boil rapidly
MEATS. 189
at any time. Remove from the water in which the feet
were boiled all the fat, which by this time will have
formed in a cake on the top, and save it for cooking
purposes. Place a quart of the water in the vinegar,
unless the latter is not very strong, in which case less
water must be added, so that the vinegar will not become
too much diluted. Strain the liquid through a sieve to
remove the spice, etc., and pour it over the meat in the
jar, helping it through the meat with a knife and fork,
until the whole is thoroughly mixed together. Set the
jar in a cold place for two days, when the souse will be
ready for use. This preparation is particularly nice for a
home luncheon or tea and should be a thick, jelly-like
mass when properly prepared.
PIGS' FEET, FRIED.
Split the feet through the middle lengthwise, and boil
them until tender, but not so much that the meat will
separate from the bones. After draining well, dip
each piece in beaten egg and then in rolled cracker-
crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry in a hot
frying-pan, using plenty of fat. Drain each piece thor-
oughly so there will not be a drop of fat on the serving
dish when sent to table.
HEAD-CHEESE.
This is generally made of the head, ears and tongue,
but the head alone may be used, if desired. Clean the
meat very carefully, this part of the work being most par-
ticular and not to be hurried. Boil the meat and bones
in salted water until the former is very tender. Skim out
the head, place it in a colander to drain, and remove all
1 90 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
the bones with a knife. Cut the ears rather fine, and
place them with the head meat. Season the whole with
salt, pepper, sage, sweet marjoram and any other herbs
that may be available, adding a little powdered cloves.
Mix the mass well together, taste to see if properly
seasoned, and pack it tightly in a bowl, interspersing the
layers of meat with slices of the boiled tongue. Press
the meat into a compact shape, and cover it with a plate
upon which is placed a sufficiently heavy weight. The
head-cheese will be ready to use in two or three days.
Cut it in thin slices, and serve with vinegar, and mustard
if liked ; or it may be cut in slices and fried the same as
pig's feet, being first dipped in egg and cracker-crumbs.
The latter mode of preparing produces a very pleasant
breakfast dish.
SCRAPPLE.
Many cities or parts of the country have some particu-
lar dish for which they are noted, and that peculiar to
Philadelphia is known as " scrapple," which is brought to
market in large quantities and sold most reasonably. It
is made in this way: Scrape and thoroughly clean a
hog's head; then split it, and take out the eyes and
brain. The butcher will, of course, do this when
directed. Clean the ears also, and scrape and scald them
well. Put all on to boil in plenty of cold water, and sim-
mer gently for four hours, or until the bones will easily
slip from the meat. Lift out the meat and bones into a
colander, remove the bones, and chop the meat fine.
Skim off every particle of grease from the water in which
the meat was boiled, and return the chopped meat to the
kettle and water. Season highly with pepper and salt
MEATS. 191
and such powdered herbs as may be preferred. Now
take a large wooden spoon or paddle and stir constantly,
meanwhile adding enough com meal and buckwheat flour,
in equal quantities, to make a soft mush. Gook slowly
one hour, stirring frequently, as the mush will scorch
easily. Pour the mixture into dishes and keep it in a cool
place, slicing it as needed. Sometimes part or all of
wheat middlings is used in place of the corn meal and
buckwheat nour, and again corn meal or buckwheat
Hour alone is used.
TO COOK SCRAPPLE.
Cut it into rather thin slices, dip each slice in flour,
and fry until a fine brown. Drain well before serving.
PORK SAUSAGE.
Six pounds of lean fresh pork.
Three pounds of fat fresh pork.
Twelve tea-spoonfuls of powdered sage.
Six tea-spoonfuls of black pepper.
Six tea-spoonfuls of salt.
Two tea-spoonfuls of powdered mace.
Two tea-spoonfuls of powdered cloves.
One grated nutmeg.
Grind the meat in a sausage mill. Most butchers have
mills of this kind and will do the work at small cost.
Mix the seasoning thoroughly with the meat, using the
hands for mixing. The spices need not be added, if not
liked ; but they help to preserve the meat. If the sausage
is for immediate use, they may be omitted. A safe rule
to follow in seasoning a small quantity of sausage meat is
to allow to each pound the following :
1 92 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
One table-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of sifted sage.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
There are many ways of putting away sausage meat.
If it is to be kept a long time, pack it in a stone jar, and
pour melted lard on top ; the meat will keep a very long
time if sealed in this way, many country housekeepers
preserving it thus from autumn until the following
summer. The meat may also be kept in cotton bags.
Use strong cotton for the bags, making each one a yard
long and four inches wide. Dip them in strong salt and
water, and let them dry before rilling. Crowd the meat
closely into the bags, pressing it in with a pestle or a
potato masher. When wanted for use, turn the end of
the bag back, cut off the meat in half-inch slices, and fry
brown. Sausage is ordinarily put away in " casings "
made from the intestines.
TO CLEAN THE " CASINGS."
Empty them, turn them inside out and wash thor-
oughly ; then let them soak in salted water for two days.
Wash them again, cut into convenient lengths, and scrape
them on a board with a blunt knife, first on one side,
then on the other. When well scraped, wash them again,
tie up one end of each length, insert a quill in the other
end, and fill them with air by blowing through the quills.
If white and clear, they are clean, but if any thick spots
appear, they must be scraped again. Throw the casings
into cold, salted water until wanted.
TO COOK SAUSAGE.
When cooking sausage in casings, prick the skins with
a sharp steel fork to prevent their bursting. If cooking
MEATS. 193
it in bulk, shape the sausage into balls with the hands.
Place it in a hot frying-pan, and fry until brown, adding
no fat, as there will generally be plenty in the meat. Re-
move the sausage, when done, to a platter, add a table-
spoonful of dry flour to the fat in the pan, and cook one
minute, stirring all the time ; then gradually add a cup-
ful of milk, still stirring. When the gravy is boiling and
is of a creamy consistency, add salt and pepper to taste,
pour the gravy over the sausage, and serve.
TO SALT DOWN OR PICKLE PORK.
The hams, shoulders, chines and middlings are the
parts of the pig usually pickled. This should be done as
soon as possible after the meat is cold, and should not be
delayed more than twenty-four hours at the very longest.
The following is the proportion of pickle allowed to fifty
pounds of pork :
Two and a-half pounds of brown sugar.
Two ounces of saltpetre.
Nine gallons of water.
Salt to make a brine.
Mix the sugar and saltpetre with the water, and grad-
ually add Liverpool salt until the brine will float an egg.
Boil for ten minutes, skim off all the scum that rises, and
set aside to cool. Cover the bottom of the packing bar-
rel with coarse salt, and pack the pork closely in it, with
the rind next to the sides of the barrel, and covering each
layer with salt. When all the pork has been packed,
pour the cold brine over it, place a round board cut a lit-
tle smaller than the barrel on top of the meat, and upon
it lay a heavy weight to keep it beneath the surface. If
13
194 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
at any time the brine froths or looks red, it should be
turned off, scalded again and more salt added ; as soon
as cold it should be returned to the meat.
TO CURE HAMS.
The hams may be pickled with the rest of the pork, as
above directed ; and after remaining in the brine sixteen
days, should be removed and washed clean of salt.
They are then ready to be smoked. Another method of
curing ham is to allow to fifty pounds of meat
Two pounds of fine salt.
One ounce of powdered saltpetre.
Two ounces of brown sugar.
Place the meat on a board or table in the cellar, with
the skin side down. Mix the salt, sugar and saltpetre
well together, and rub each ham all over with this mix-
ture, putting a little of it in the hock end around the
bone. Rub until the meat will absorb no more. Should
there be any of the mixture left, use it on the meat at the
end of a week, rubbing it in as before. Let the hams re-
main in this condition for sixteen days, when they are
ready to be smoked.
TO SMOKE HAMS.
Wet the hams with clean water, and dip them, while
wet, in dry bran, forming as thick a coat as possible over
the meat. Sawdust is sometimes used, but bran is much
to be preferred. The object of thus using the bran is to
form a crust that will prevent the evaporation of the
juices. Hang the hams in the smoke-house, with the
hock end down. Keep up a good smoke continually,
MEATS. 195
smothering the fire with sawdust, and taking care that
the house does not become hot at any time. Meat
should be smoked at least four weeks, but it is seldom
allowed to hang as long as that. Should it be desired to
keep the hams until warm weather, there are many ways
in which they may be put away. They are sometimes
simply hung on hooks in a cool place, but it is undoubt-
edly much better to encase them in covers, as these are
an effectual protection against insects. Dust cayenne
pepper around the bones, and wrap the hams closely in
brown paper and then with coarse muslin shaped to fit
them exactly, stitching the muslin tightly to position.
Whitewash the muslin cloth, and hang the hams in a cool,
dark, dry place.
TO BOIL A HAM.
Wash the ham well, and, if very salt, soak it over
night in clear water. Ascertain its weight, and allow
fifteen minutes of cooking to every pound. Place the
ham in a large kettle on the stove, cover it with cold
water, and when the water boils, set the kettle back
where the ham will gently simmer. When it has boiled
in this way for one hour, turn off the water and add fresh
boiling water. By thus changing the water the rank
taste of the smoke is destroyed. For every ten pounds
of meat add half a cupful of sugar to the second water,
and then boil the remainder of the time required. When
clone, remove the ham, but do not skin it until cold, nor
cut it until it has been cooked twenty-four hours, unless
it is to be eaten hot ; in that case it should be skinned as
soon as taken from the water, and all the black rind and
discolored portions removed. In cooking half a ham,
1 96 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
or one that has been cut, the juices will be better
retained if the cut side is kept upward in the kettle.
This may be easily done by propping up the meat with
a clean stone placed on each side.
There are many ways of finishing boiled hams that are
to be served whole. The method most commonly pur-
sued is to sprinkle grated bread-crumbs over the ham and
brown them in a quick oven. Another desirable mode is
to brush the ham with beaten egg, cover it with bread-
crumbs and brown nicely; or the ham, after being
skinned, may be dusted with black pepper sifted on in
circles. The latter plan produces an attractive looking
dish. One thing must, however, be borne in mind that
no matter how well a ham is cooked, it will prove an utter
failure if not cut in thin slices for serving.
FRIED HAM, WITH CREAM" GRAVY.
Properly cured ham will not need freshening; but
should the ham be too salt, place it in a frying-pan, cover
with cold water, and set the pan on the range in a mild
heat; and when the steam commences to rise, pour off
the water, and add more cold water. As soon as this
water steams lift out the slice of meat and drain it well
before frying. Two waters should always be sufficient to
freshen the saltest piece of ham. Heat the pan for frying,
and when very hot, cook the meat without the addition
of fat, unless the ham is exceptionally lean, when a
spoonful of pork drippings should be used. When the
ham is nicely browned, place it on a platter, and add a
cupful of milk to the fat in the pan. When this boils,
thicken it to a cream with a table-spoonful of flour wet
to a smooth paste in a little milk, adding pepper to sea-
MEATS. 197
son ; and turn the gravy over the ham. A more simple
gravy is made by adding a little hot water to the fat, etc.,
in the pan and pouring this over the meat.
HAM SANDWICHES.
Chop fine half a pound of ham, and season with a
table-spoonful of olive oil, a table-spoonful of lemon
juice and a little pepper and made mustard. Butter the
bread on the loaf before cutting it ; cut the slices thinly,
and spread the ham between them. Or the ham may be
cut very thin, spread with a light coat of mustard and
laid between thin slices of buttered bread.
PORK AND BEANS,
OR BOSTON BAKED BEANS, NO. I.
Much of the excellence of this dish depends upon the
kind of bean-pot used. It should be of earthenware, with
a narrow mouth and bulging sides. Soak a quart of
pea beans in cold water over night ; in the morning place
them in fresh water, and simmer gently until soft enough
to pierce with a pin, being careful that they do not
boil long enough to break. If desired, a small onion
may be boiled with the beans. When they are soft, turn
them into a colander, pour cold water through them, and
place them, when well drained, in the bean-pot. Pour
boiling water over a-quarter of a pound of salt pork that
is part fat and part lean. Scrape the rind until white,
cut it in half-inch strips, and bury the meat in the
beans, leaving only the rind exposed. Mix together a
tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of dry mustard and
a-fourth of a cupful of molasses. Place these in a cup,
fill the cup with hot water, stir until well mixed, and pour
198 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
the liquid over the beans and pork. Add enough water
to cover the beans, and bake eight hours, adding water
to keep them covered, until the last hour, when the pork
should be raised to the surface to crisp.
If pork is disliked, it may be omitted ; more salt must
then be used, together with a third of a cupful of butter ;
or half a pound of fat and lean corned beef may be
substituted.
BOSTON BAKED BEANS, NO. 2.
This recipe has been used most successfully for many
years, and the work is quickly done.
Do not soak the beans over night. Place a quart of
pea beans over the fire, cover them with cold water,
and slowly bring the water to a boil ; then set the kettle
where the beans will just bubble, but. will at no time boil
hard. When they have cooked in this way for fifteen
minutes, add a four-inch square of salt pork to the kettle,
and simmer gently with the beans until they may be
pierced with a pin, but are not at all broken ; then turn
the beans into a colander to drain. Place together in a
o
coffee-cup two large table-spoonfuls of molasses, a tea-
spoonful of salt and a-fourth of a tea-spoonful of pepper,
and fill the cup with some of the hot water in which the
beans were boiled. Place the beans in the bean-pot, turn
over them the cupful of seasoning, and stir well until
thoroughly mixed. Cut the rind of the pork in small
squares, sink the meat in the beans, leaving only the rind
exposed ; add more bean water until the rind is covered,
and bake two hours, raising the pork during the last three-
quarters of an hour, to brown and crisp the top. More
baking may be allowed if there is time for it before serv-
MEATS. 199
ing ; but excellent baked beans have for many years been
prepared in this way in the writer's household, and never
with more than two hours' baking.
BACON.
This is cured the same as ham. It may be boiled ; or
it may be cut in thin slices and fried or broiled crisp. It
is also cooked with liver.
LARD.
Housekeepers who would have really fine lard should
prepare it at home, as that purchased at the stores is
almost invariably close and tough and good results can-
not be expected from its use. Particularly in making
pie-crust will poor lard assert itself, for the crust can
never be flaky if the lard is tough. Cut the lard-fat into
small pieces, removing all flesh and membrane. Put
enough water in a kettle to cover the bottom, and lay in
the fat. The water will prevent the lard burning and
will all have evaporated by the time the lard has melted.
Boil gently until the " scraps" settle, stirring often.
The " leaf " produces the finest lard, and should never
be put in with the inferior fat.
The fat from the small intestines and the pieces not
fit for salting should be laid in lukewarm water for
twenty-four hours and should be melted by itself. Set it
away to freeze, and the strong flavor will soon be gone.
These minute directions are, of course, more especially
intended for the benefit of country housewives.
POULTRY AND GAME.
The flesh of poultry and game has less red blood than
the flesh of animals and is dryer and not marbled with
ZOO THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
fat. Game has a strong odor and flavor that is mistaken
by many to be an indication that the meat is tainted.
Whitefleshed game should be well cooked, while that
which has dark flesh should be served rare.
TO CHOOSE POULTRY AND GAME.
The best chickens have soft, yellow feet, short, thick
legs, smooth skin and a plump breast, the cartilage on
the end of the breast-bone being soft and easy to bend.
This is sometimes broken in old fowls to deceive pur-
chasers, but this fact may easily be detected. Pin-
feathers, as the short, young feathers are called, always
indicate a young bird; while long hairs invariably belong
to the older ones.
The bodies of capons are very plump and are larger
in proportion than those of fowls or chickens ; and the
meat is of fine flavor. Old fowls have long, thin necks,
the feet have sharp scales, and the flesh is of a purplish hue.
The best turkeys have smooth, black legs, soft spurs
and white flesh.
Geese and ducks should not be more than a year old ;
they should have soft, yellow feet and tender wings and
be thick and hard on the breast, and the wind-pipe should
break easily when pressed with thumb and finger. Wild
ducks have feet of a reddish hue.
Young pigeons have light-red flesh on the breast and
full, flesh-colored legs. Old pigeons are thin and very
dark on the breast. Wild pigeons are cheap, but are apt
to be very dry. Squabs are the young of the tame
pigeon.
Grouse, partridge and quail should have full, heavy
breasts, dark bills and yellowish legs.
MEATS. 2oi
Young rabbits have smooth, sharp claws, tender ears
and paws and short necks.
Venison should be dark-red, with some white fat.
TO DRESS POULTRY.
In some markets poultry is sold ready dressed, in
others it is picked but not drawn, while in still other
places the poultry may be bought alive. The best and
quickest way of killing poultry is by cutting the throat,
but some cut the head entirely off. In either case, the
fowl should at once be hung by the feet, as death then
follows more quickly and the body is more perfectly
emptied of blood. Begin at once to strip off the feathers.
Do not make the mistake of scalding any bird. If all
country women knew that they would receive at least
twenty-five per cent, more for " dry picked " poultry (as
that picked unscalded is called), the reckless and indis-
criminate use of hot water for this purpose would cease.
Young chickens are completely spoiled by being thus par-
boiled ; and while the injury to the meat is not so great
in older birds, the flavor is much changed. In picking,
take a few feathers in the hand and give them a quick
jerk toward the tail. Do not pull the feathers toward the
head, as the skin is much more easily torn by drawing
them in this direction. When all feathers and pin feath-
ers have been removed, singe the bird by holding the
head and passing the body backward and forward over a
blazing paper, turning both sides to the blaze, and taking
care not to scorch the skin.
TO CLEAN POULTRY.
Cut off the head, and the feet at the first joint. Cut
the skin on the back of the neck the entire length of the
202 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
body; turn the skin over on the breast, stripping it from
the neck; and cut off the neck-bone close to the body.
No good cook will roast poultry without first removing
the bony neck, for it is an unsightly piece, and there is
little if anything on it to eat. It may, however, be used
when stewing chicken, but it should never be served at
table.
Carefully remove the crop from the breast. This is a
thin membrane often so thin and soft, in fact, that it is
hardly perceptible, so that special care is required to find
and remove it. When the crop is all taken out, insert
the forefinger in the throat, and break the ligaments that
hold the internal organs to the breast-bone. Make an in-
cision near the vent, and work the hand slowly around,
riot through, the organs, keeping the fingers close to the
breast-bone until they can reach no farther, and loosen-
ing the organs on each side down toward the back.
The gall-bladder lies on the left side, and if the fingers
be kept up and everything loosened before drawing out,
there will be no danger of its breaking. Gently draw out
all the organs at once. It may be that the lights and a
piece of the wind-pipe will not come out with the rest.
The lights will be found embedded in the ribs, being of
a soft, spongy, pinkish substance. Look in the throat for
the wind-pipe. Remove the oil-sac from the top of the
tail. One of the best authorities says it is best not to
wash a bird of any kind, either outside or inside, unless
some accident has happened in removing the entrails;
it should be wiped with a very damp cloth. Other
authorities, equally good, advise washing very quickly,
not allowing the bird to remain in the water a moment.
All the best cooks agree that water ruins the sweetness
ME A TS. 2O3
and detracts much from the flavor of poultry and game
and, if needed at all, should be used very sparingly.
Cut the liver away from the gall-bag, taking care not to
break the gall. Cut open the heart to remove the blood,
or else pinch it gently to empty it. Cut carefully in one
of the thick ends of the gizzard, cutting only to the lining
and not into it. Draw off the gizzard, leaving the lining
that contains the sand unbroken. Wash these pieces and
set them away for use.
Turkeys, geese, ducks, pigeons, pheasants and all birds
are cleaned in the same way. Should the fowl, when
drawn, have a bad odor, wash it in cold water in which
has been dissolved half a tea-spoonful of soda. This will
help to restore the meat, but such birds are never satis-
factory. Poultry when bought undrawn is very sure to
have a strong smell. If housekeepers everywhere would
maintain a crusade against the sale of undrawn poultry in
the markets or by farmers, they would work a most
wholesome hygienic reform. It is a vicious practice an
abuse, in fact, that people have endured, like many other
abuses, because there is no remedy except in concerted
action. It is impossible to keep undrawn poultry even a
few hours without putrefaction setting in, taking place
from the effect of the gases arising from the undigested
food in the crop and intestines. The longer it is kept,
the more of the poison goes into the flesh ; and in the
majority of cases poultry that reaches the kitchen from
the market is actually unfit for food. Housekeepers
could well afford to pay a larger price to have the poultry
dressed immediately upon being killed, since much is
now paid for that is thrown away, besides having left a
mass of poisoned flesh. It is urged that some people
204 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
prefer the flavor of undressed poultry, but that fact only
makes the matter the more alarming since it indicates
that we are cultivating a taste for putrid meat.
ROAST TURKEY, WITH GIBLET GRAVY.
Singe and clean as directed. Make any of the stuffings,
the recipes of which are given on pages 205 and 206.
Work the hand gently under the skin on the breast, to lift
the skin from the flesh, working through the cut made by
taking out the neck, and taking care not to break the skin.
Put a thin layer of dressing between the skin and flesh ;
and place the rest of the stuffing lightly in the body,
being careful not to pack it at all. When the breast is
stuffed, draw the skin of the neck over on the back and
fasten it to the back with a skewer. Turn the tips of
the wings under the back, and fasten them in that posi-
tion with a skewer, running it through the wings and
body. Make an incision in the skin near the opening
where the entrails have been taken out, and insert the
"drum-sticks" in the holes, tying them together after
they are so placed. Sew up the vent where the stuffing
was put in. Moisten the skin of the bird with a little
water, and sprinkle it with salt, pepper and flour. The
moisture helps to retain the seasoning on the meat.
Place the turkey in a dripping-pan in the oven, adding a
very little water to the pan, and roast, allowing twenty
minutes to a pound. After it has roasted twenty-five
minutes, baste with the oil and water in the pan, and
baste every fifteen minutes until baked enough.
Frequent basting is the secret of success in roasting fowl.
If the basting is done every ten minutes, it will be none
too often, but it should be done every fifteen minutes at
ME A 7'S.
20$
the longest. Some cooks advise rubbing butter on the
legs and breast, but it must be a very thin turkey that re-
quires this, as there is usually quite enough fat given off
for use in basting. When the turkey is done, place it on
a platter, remove the strings and skewers, and place it in
the oven while the gravy is being prepared.
TO MAKE GIBLET GRAVY.
Place the giblets (the liver, heart and gizzard) and the
neck that has been cut off, in a sauce-pan, and cover them
with cold water. Simmer slowly, and when tender re-
move the neck and chop the giblets fine, saving the water
in which they were cooked. When the turkey is lifted
from the pan, pour off all but three small table-spoonfuls
of the oil, place the pan on the top of the stove, and when
the gravy boils, stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour. Cook
two minutes and add the water in which the giblets were
cooked, pouring it in gradually so as not to thin the gravy
too much. If the gravy seems too thick, add also a
little hot water. Put in lastly the chopped giblets, and
season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in a gravy
dish.
STUFFING FOR TURKEY NO. I.
Three cupfuls of grated stale bread.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of chopped onion.
Rub the butter into the crumbs, and let them stand at
least an hour, when the rest of the seasoning may be
added. This makes a crumby stuffing.
206 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
STUFFING FOR TURKEY NO. 2.
One quart of grated bread.
One cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One tea-spoonful of chopped onion.
One-half tea-spoonful of summer savory.
One table-spoonful of salt.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two eggs.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half tea-spoonful of thyme.
Pour the milk on the crumbs, and cover tightly for an
hour ; then add the rest of the ingredients, omitting the
onion, if objectionable.
OYSTER STUFFING.
Two cupfuls of bread-crumbs.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
Twenty-five oysters.
Rub the butter into the crumbs, add the seasoning, and
put in the oysters last, leaving them whole.
CRANBERRY SAUCE, FOR ROAST TURKEY.
One quart of cranberries.
One pint of water.
One pint of sugar.
Pick over and wash the berries, place them in a stew-
pan with the water and sugar, and cook slowly for twenty
minutes. Rinse a mould with cold water, pour in the
stewed berries, and set them away to cool. When
ME A rs. 207
wanted for serving, turn out upon a flat dish, cut off a
thick slice and send to the table.
ROAST TURKEY, WITH CHESTNUT STUFFING.
Draw and clean the turkey as previously directed.
Shell and blanch fifty large French chestnuts, and boil
them half an hour in water enough to cover. Drain off
the water, and add to the nuts three table-spoonfuls of
butter, a table-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful
of pepper. Mix well, and place them in the turkey.
Truss and roast the fowl as directed in the preceding
recipe. When done, serve with
CHESTNUT SAUCE.
Thirty French chestnuts.
One pint of water.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Shell and blanch the nuts, boil until tender, drain
thoroughly, and mash them with a potato masher. Add
the water a little at a time, rub the mixture through a
sieve, and cook gently in a sauce-pan for half an hour.
Place the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, add the
flour. Cook until the flour is of a dark-brown color,
stirring constantly; then add the chestnut mixture, cook
for three or four minutes, and serve in a gravy-boat.
BOILED TURKEY, WITH CELERY SAUCE.
If a turkey dressed in this way is not well managed it
will be quite tasteless. It should be well trussed and
208 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
tied, or the legs and wings will be sadly disarranged dur-
ing the process of boiling. When the turkey has been
cleaned, stuff it with the following
CELERY STUFFING.
One-half head of celery.
One quart of bread-crumbs.
Two eggs.
Two table-spoonfuls of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
Chop the celery fine, and add the other ingredients
after rubbing the butter into the crumbs ; fill the turkey
the same as directed for a roast turkey, putting a little of
the stuffing in the breast also; and sew it up very se-
curely. Wring a large square of cotton cloth out of cold
water, and dredge the cloth thickly with flour. Pin the
turkey, in this cloth, and plunge it in boiling water.
Allow twenty minutes boiling to a pound ; boil rapidly
the first fifteen minutes, and then moderate the boiling
somewhat, but never stop it entirely. Place the turkey,
when done, on a platter, remove the cloth and skewers,
drain well, and serve with
CELERY SAUCE.
One head of celery.
One pint of milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour,
Four table-spoonfuls of butter.
Cut the celery fine, and place it in a sauce-pan with just
enough water to cover. Cover the pan, and simmer
ME A TS. 209
gently. When it has boiled an hour, mix the butter and
flour together, and add them to the celery, also adding
the milk, salt and pepper. Boil two minutes, stirring all
the time, and serve in a gravy-boat.
BRAISED TURKEY.
This is a very satisfactory way of cooking an old turkey
that is unfit for roasting or boiling. Make a stuffing as
for roast turkey, stuff the body and breast, and truss.
Spread thin slices of salt pork over the breast and legs,
and cover the turkey with a strong sheet of buttered
paper, fastening the paper on by passing a string around
the body. Spread in a braising-pan large enough to hold
the turkey the following :
One-quarter pound of salt pork, sliced.
One-quarter pint of chopped celery.
One-quarter pint of chopped carrot.
One-quarter pint of chopped onion.
One-quarter pint of chopped turnip.
Lay the turkey on this mixture, with the breast up,
cover the pan tightly, and place in a moderate oven.
At the end of thirty minutes add a quart of water, or
stock, if at hand, and baste the turkey every fifteen min-
utes with the gravy this will make, sprinkling once with
salt and pepper. Allow twenty-five minutes to the pound.
During the last half-hour take the cover from the pan, re-
move the paper and pork from the turkey, and thus per-
mit the meat to brown slightly. When done, lift the
turkey from the pan, untruss it, and lay it on a large plat-
ter. Strain off the gravy, and use it for the
14
2 1 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
MUSHROOM SAUCE.
One pint of strained gravy.
t One-quarter pound of fresh mushrooms, 01
I Three-quarters can of canned mushrooms.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half of a baked sour apple.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two and a-half table-spoonfuls of flour.
One-half table-spoonful of salt.
A slight grating of nutmeg.
Place the butter in a stew-pan, and when hot and
browning, add the flour, and stir well until of a dark-
brown. Draw the pan back to a cool place, and stir the
butter until slightly cooled ; then add the gravy, and stir
until it boils. Now add the seasoning, the baked apple
and half the mushrooms, and set the sauce where it will
gently bubble for an hour. At the end of this time skim
off the oil that will have arisen to the top, and strain the
sauce into another pan, adding the remainder of the
mushrooms and three table-spoonfuls more of the gravy
left from braising the turkey. If fresh mushrooms are
used, they should be pared, cut in small pieces, and sim-
mered ten minutes in the sauce before serving. When
canned mushrooms are used, they should be cooked
whole and simmered but five minutes.
TO "WARM OVER" TURKEY.
Cut the drum-sticks and wings from the body, and take
off all the meat remaining on the breast. Also use any
pieces that may have remained on the platter when the
turkey was first carved. Disjoint the back piece, called
the rump, splitting it down the back and cutting each
piece in two, thus making four pieces of the back. Place
MEA TS. 211
all these pieces in a kettle, acid three table-spoonfuls of
the stuffing and any gravy that may have been left from
the roast. Add water to half the height of the turkey in
the kettle, cover the kettle tightly, and set it in a moder
ate heat. Cook at least forty-five minutes, stirring often,
and adding more water if it should seem necessary ;
there should be just enough at the last to keep the meat
from sticking to the kettle. Season with salt and pepper,
turn on a platter, and serve. It is a mistake to cut the
meat from the bones, as the result is very unsatisfactory.
The turkey should stew so slowly that it will only be
thoroughly warmed, and it should in no case fall from the
bones. The large body part of the turkey is never used,
except for soup.
A FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN.
Draw and singe the chicken as directed, and cut it into
pieces. This is done as follows : Cut through the loose
skin between the legs and the body, bend the legs over,
and cut them off at the joint ; also cut the upper leg from
the lower leg at their joining. Cut off the neck and
wings where they join the body, always cutting at the
joints. Lay the chicken on its breast, with the tail
toward you. Cut a slice off the breast reaching into the
large bone of the body, thus cutting out the " happy
thought " or wish-bone. Cut to the back through the in-
cision made in taking out the entrails, and disjoint the
back, cutting this piece, which contains the rump, again
across the back, making two pieces of it. Cut the ribs
through the entire length of the piece that will be left;
also cut the length of the bird on the other side from the
neck to the end of the breast-bone, and cut these large
2 1 2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
pieces again into two parts. In cutting a bird or rabbit
or any meat of the kind to be fricasseed, divide it at the
joints as far as possible, and never chop a bone, as that
crushes it.
Place the chicken in a kettle, cover it with boiling
water, and gently simmer until tender. An old fowl will
need to be cooked at least two hours, but a tender one
will be done in half that time. Remove the cover during
the last half hour, so that the gravy in the kettle may re-
duce somewhat. There should be about a pint and
a-half when done; and if it is already reduced to this
measurement at the beginning of the last half hour, keep
the cover on that it may not boil away any more. Sea-
son with salt and pepper, and add a little butter also if
the chicken was lacking in fat ; this, however, will rarely
be necessary. Have ready some nicely toasted bread
and lay it on a platter. Lift the chicken from the kettle
with a long-handled skimmer and lay it on the toast. Set
the gravy back where it will not boil, and with a spoon
dip off all the fat that can be skimmed from the top.
Then add a cupful of milk, and set the gravy again to
heat. When it boils, stir in two and a-half table-spoon-
fuls of flour wet to a smooth paste with a little cold milk,
and boil two minutes, stirring constantly ; season with
more salt and pepper if necessary. The gravy should be
as thick as cream ; and if it is not, stir in more flour. It
is always difficult to give the precise amount of thickening
needed when the exact quantity to be thickened is not
known. Pour the gravy over the chicken and toast, and
serve at once. This is a very satisfactory way of cooking
old, tough fowl ; indeed, there is no other, unless, per-
haps, it be that contained in the following recipe,
ME A TS. 213
BRAISED CHICKEN.
Prepare the same as for braised turkey, leaving out the
mushrooms, and thickening the gravy poured from the
braising pan. A tender chicken is rarely if ever dressed
in this way, only old fowls being used.
BROWN FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN.
Cut in pieces as directed for fricassee of chicken.
Place a quarter of a pound of salt pork or two ounces of
butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, put in the chicken,
leaving plenty of room to turn the meat ; and cook until
each piece is of a rich brown tint. Add two table-spoon-
fuls of flour, stir well, and when it has cooked two
minutes, add a pint of boiling water. When the gravy
is smooth and boiling, season with salt and pepper,
cover the pan, and simmer gently until the chicken is
tender; then add a tea-spoonful of onion juice, if not
objectionable, and dish at once. The gravy, will be
found thick enough, and if the pan has a tight cover it
will not be diminished even after a long cooking.
WHITE FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN.
Cut the chicken in pieces as directed, cover with boil-
ing water in the kettle, and simmer slowly until tender,
leaving the cover half off to reduce the gravy. There
should be only just enough in the kettle at the last to keep
the meat from burning. Season with salt and pepper,
lift out the chicken, and place on a platter upon toasted
bread. Make the following sauce or gravy, and pour it
over the chicken and toast :
2 14 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
Salt and pepper to taste.
One pint of milk.
Two eggs (yolks only).
Heat the butter in a frying-pan, stir in the flour, and
cook slowly two or three minutes, stirring constantly, but
taking care not to burn the flour. Draw the pan away
from the heat, and gradually add the milk. When well
mixed in, turn all into the kettle from which the chicken
was taken, and set in a hot place to boil, adding salt and
pepper, if needed. Let the gravy boil two or three min-
utes, remove it from the fire, add the beaten yolks, and
pour it at once over the chicken. Sprinkle a table-spoon-
ful of finely chopped parsley over the top of the chicken
just before serving.
ROAST CHICKEN, WITH GIBLET SAUCE.
Prepare this the same as roast turkey, using but half
the amount of stuffing, and allowing but fifteen minutes
cooking to a pound.
Baste well every ten minutes, else the chicken will be
dry and disappointing. Chickens may be filled with
chestnut stuffing the same as turkeys.
FRIED SPRING CHICKEN (SOUTHERN STYLE).
The colored cooks of the South have perhaps, discov-
ered the most delicious way of cooking young chickens,
and the method is very simple.
Cut the small chickens in four or six pieces, dip each
piece hastily in cold water, then sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and roll the pieces in plenty of flour. Have some
ME A TS. 21$
sweet lard heated very hot in a frying-pan, and fry the
chicken until each piece is of a rich brown hue on both
sides. Take up, drain well, and arrange the pieces on a
warm platter, setting the dish in a hot place to keep the
meat from cooling while the gravy is being made. Pour
out of the pan all but a table-spoonful of the oil, and stir
into the pan a cupful of milk. When the liquid is hot and
well stirred, thicken to a rich cream with a table-spoonful
of flour rubbed smooth in a table-spoonful of butter.
Boil two or three minutes, stirring constantly, season with
salt and pepper, and pour the gravy over the chicken. A
little chopped parsley is often added to the gravy. But-
ter, if here used in place of lard, is difficult to manage, as
it burns so easily ; lard is decidedly to be preferred for
this purpose. Fried chicken is a standard dish in the Old
Dominion and is nowhere prepared in such perfection.
FRIED CHICKEN, NO. 2.
Cut the chicken in pieces, and season with salt and
pepper. Dip each piece in beaten egg, then in cracker-
crumbs, and fry brown in hot lard. Throw a few sprigs
of parsley into the fat when all the chicken has been
fried, and let them remain in long enough to become
crisp but not too dry. Strew them over the chicken, and
serve.
SMOTHERED CHICKEN.
This is one of the most delicious ways of cooking
chickens. Clean, take off the neck, and split the chicken
down the back, wiping it with a damp towel. Season
inside and out with salt and pepper, and dredge on all
sides with flour. Lay the chicken, with the inside down,
2 1 6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
in a small baking tin, adding a cupful of water. The pan
should be but little larger than the chicken ; otherwise the
gravy will be too quickly evaporated. Cook slowly for
one hour, basting every ten minutes after the first twenty
minutes cooking. Should the chicken be decidedly lack-
ing in fat, add a small table-spoonful of butter. There
will be plenty of gravy in the pan with which to baste if
the pan is small. When done, place the chicken on a hot
platter, and thicken the gravy in the pan with a little flour,
after adding another half cupful of water. Should the
chicken be quite fat, remove all but a table-spoonful of
the oil from the pan before making the gravy. Season
with salt and pepper to taste, pour the gravy over the
chicken, and serve at once.
Any small birds may be dressed in this way, with the
most satisfactory results, the secret of success in this kind
of roasting lying in very frequent basting and in not
having too hot an oven.
BROILED CHICKEN.
Only tender chickens or those that may surely be
made tender are ever cooked by broiling. Clean and
singe the chickens as directed, picking out all pin-feathers.
Split each chicken down the back, and wipe with a damp
towel. Even when you are quite certain the chickens are
tender, it is wise to steam them before broiling. This is
done thus : Set the dripping-pan in the oven, and nearly
fill it with boiling water. Place two sticks across the
pan, extending them from side to side, and upon them lay
the chicken. Invert a tin pan over it, and, shutting
the oven door let the chicken steam for thirty minutes.
MEATS. 217
This process relaxes the muscles and renders the joints
supple, besides preserving the juices that would be lost in
parboiling. Transfer the chicken from this vapor bath to
a wire broiler, and turn the inside of the chicken to the
fire first. Cover the broiler with a tin pan, and broil until
the fowl is tender and brown, turning it frequently and
being careful the fire is not too hot. The chicken will fin-
ish cooking in half an hour. Lay it on a warmed platter,
spread it with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
serve. Some good cooks season before broiling, and in
this case the chicken, after being sprinkled with salt and
pepper, should be dusted all over with flour. The salt will
draw out the juices, but the flour will unite with them,
forming a paste that keeps the remaining juices well in
the chicken. This plan may be followed for broiling
beefsteak.
BAKED CHICKEN (CAMPING PARTY STYLE).
Do not remove the feathers from the chicken. Take
out the entrails and crop, making as small incisions as
possible ; and cut out the vent. Stuff with half the
stuffing directed for roast turkey, or if this is not con-
venient, sew up the body securely without stuffing at
all. Cover the chicken with wet clay, spreading it
half an inch or even one inch thick. Bury the chicken
in a bed of hot ashes, place coals on the top, and
bake an hour and a-quarter, if the bird weighs two
pounds. The feathers will peel off as the cake of
clay is removed, leaving the flesh quite clean. This
is an especially delicious dish for a hungry camping
party.
2 1 8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
BOILED CHICKEN.
Chickens are boiled the same as turkeys. In winter
there is no better way than to boil them whole and pour
over them a strong caper sauce when serving. The
chickens should be stuffed, well sewed, and pinned
in a wet cloth that has been generously sprinkled with
flour; they are then plunged in boiling water, which
should not cease boiling until the chicken is done.
Allow twenty minutes cooking to a pound. A large,
tough chicken may be made very palatable prepared in
this way.
BONED CHICKEN.
This makes an exceedingly nice course for dinner and
is not difficult to manage. Pick and singe the chicken
and cut off the head and feet, but do not draw it. With
a sharp penknife slit the chicken down the back ; then,
keeping the knife close to the bones, scrape down the
sides and the bon^s will come out. Leave the drum-
sticks and wing bones in, but break them at the joints.
Stuff the chicken with chopped cold, cooked lamb, sea-
soned with salt and pepper, and a tea-spoonful of
summer savory and the juice of one lemon ; and add
two table-spoonfuls of chopped salt pork. In stuff-
ing, give the chicken, as far as possible, its original shape,
and sew it up securely. Turn the ends of the wings
under the back, tie or skewer them firmly, and tie the
legs down close to the body, so that the top will present
a plump surface to carve in slices across. Lard the
chicken with two rows on the top. Bake until done,
basting often, and adding water to the pan as needed.
Allow fifteen minutes to a pound in baking.
ME A TS. 219
PRESSED CHICKEN.
Clean and singe the chicken, and cut it in pieces as for
a fricassee. Place it in a kettle with a very little water,
cover closely, and boil very gently until the meat will fall
from the bones. Lift the meat from the kettle with a
skimmer, and, separating the white meat from the dark,
scrape all the meat from the bones, leaving out the skin
pieces. Season with salt and pepper. Place the meat in
the dish it is to be pressed in, laying the white and dark
meat in alternate layers, as far as possible, and adding
from time to time a little of the broth from the kettle, to
moisten all well. When all the meat is in the dish
lay a plate on top of it, place a heavy weight upon the
plate, and set away in a cool place. This makes a pretty
dish for luncheon, the meat being sliced for serving and
garnished with parsley.
TO COOK CHICKEN FOR TRAVELLING LUNCH.
Use only a young fowl. Clean, split it down the
back, and wipe dry. Season with salt and pepper, and
sprinkle on a little flour. Add water to the pan, and
bake one hour, basting frequently. Do not use any butter,
even if the chicken should seem to be lean, for the oil
in the meat is intensely disagreeable when the latter
has to be eaten from the fingers. Cut in small pieces
for the lunch.
CREAMED CHICKEN.
One-half pint of cream or milk.
One pint of cooked chicken.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
220 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
One-half table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
Two eggs (yolks).
Rub the butter and flour to a cream. Place the milk
in a double boiler or in a small tin pail set in a kettle
of hot water, and when scalding, add the flour and
butter. Stir well, and cook three minutes. Add the
parsley and chicken, and cook until the milk is thor-
oughly hot again. Beat the yolks well, adding to them
two table-spoonfuls of milk ; and pour them into the
chicken. Cook ten minutes and serve in a border of
potato. Mash the potatoes and heap them around the
serving dish, placing the chicken in the hollow thus
formed. The chicken is sometimes served in a border of
boiled rice.
CHICKEN CROQUETTES.
One pint of milk or cream.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Four table-spoonfuls of flour.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of celery salt.
Stir the butter and flour to a paste. Heat the milk to
boiling, and stir in the paste ; add the seasoning, and
cook three minutes, stirring all the time. When this
sauce is ready, take it from the fire, and add
One egg.
Two-thirds of a pint of chicken.
One tea-spoonful of lemon juice.
A few drops of onion juice.
MEATS. 221
Chop the chicken quite fine, and beat the egg well
before mixing these ingredients in. When the whole has
been well stirred, spread the mixture on a platter to cool.
When cold enough to handle, form it into rolls by taking
a spoonful in the hand at a time and shaping it ; roll
each croquette in fine bread-crumbs or cracker dust, dip
it in beaten egg, then in the dust again, and fry one
minute in smoking hot fat, using a frying-basket if you
have one. Drain well and serve hot. Many cooks pre-
fer to cut the chicken meat in dice size and not chop
it ; if this is done, use less of the sauce, else the cro-
quettes will be difficult to shape. Mushrooms, boiled rice
or veal may be mixed with the chicken meat. In rolling
any kind of croquettes, if the mixture is too soft to handle
easily, stir in fine cracker dust to stiffen it, but never add
any uncooked material, like flour or corn starch, nor even
the dried bread-crumbs used in - rolling, as these will
make the croquettes too stiff.
CHICKEN PIE, NO. I.
Clean, singe and cut up two small chickens, the same
as for a fricassee. Place them in a kettle, and add hot
water enough to cover. Put the cover on the kettle, and
stew slowly until the chicken is tender, adding a little
more water, if needed. Take the following for the
crust :
One quart of flour.
One large table-spoonful of lard.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. .
Milk to moisten.
222 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Stir the salt and baking powder thoroughly into the
flour, add the lard, rubbing it well into the flour, and use
milk enough to make a dough. Flour the baking-board,
and roll out the crust a quarter of an inch thick. Line
the sides of a deep baking dish with crust ; put in part of
the chicken, and season with salt and pepper ; then add
the rest of the chicken, and season the same way. Put
in the dish two cupfuls of the broth in which the
chicken was boiled, and cover the top with crust, making
in the center of the crust a hole large enough to admit
of adding more of the broth, if necessary. Most chicken
pie is too dry, therefore the broth should be added
plentifully. Bake one hour. Heat what broth remains,
add enough flour to thicken it, wetting the flour to a
paste with milk, and season with salt and pepper. Send
to the table in a gravy dish, to be served with the
pie.
CHICKEN PIE, NO. 2.
For a dish holding three quarts there will be required
two chickens that together will weigh eight pounds. Cut
the chickens each in two parts, splitting them down the
back and front. Cover them with boiling water, and
simmer until tender. If the chickens are a year old,
allow at least an hour and a-half of gentle boiling. Let
the chickens cool in the water in which they were boiled,
remove the skin, and cut them into pieces suitable for
serving. Place the meat in the pie dish, and sprinkle
with salt and pepper. Make a sauce as follows
Four table-spoonfuls of butter.
Four table-spoonfuls of flour.
Two slices of carrot.
MEATS. 223
One-half an onion.
Three pints of the chicken broth.
One sprig of parsley.
One bit of mace.
One bay-leaf.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Put the butter and flour in a sauce-pan, and beat until
soft and creamy. Add the vegetables, spice and herbs
and the broth, from which all the oil should have been
removed ; and heat slowly to boiling point. When
boiling, set it where it will simmer slowly for fifteen
minutes, add salt and pepper, and strain the sauce over
the chicken. Next make the crust for the pie, using
One pint of flour.
One-half table-spoonful of sugar.
One-half table-spoonful of lemon juice.
One cupful of butter.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One egg.
One-quarter of a cupful of ice water.
Place the flour, sugar, salt and butter in a chopping
tray, and chop the butter into the flour until reduced to
lumps the size of a walnut. Mix together the beaten
egg, lemon juice and water, and add the mixture, a little
at a time, to the flour and butter, chopping all the time.
When all the mixture is used, sprinkle a moulding board
with flour, and turn the paste upon it. Roll the dough
out and fold it as for puff paste. Do this three or
four times and then set it on the ice to chill before
using. Roll out this paste, making it a little larger
than the top of the pie dish. Cut a slash in the center
of the crust to allow the steam to escape, and lay the
224 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
crust over the chicken, turning the edge of the crust
into the dish. Bake in a moderately hot oven for an
hour and a-quarter, and serve hot.
CHICKEN SALAD. (See Salads.)
CHICKEN SANDWICHES.
One cupful of cold chicken.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
Two eggs (yolks only).
One tea-spoonful of rich stock.
One tea-spoonful of lemon juice.
Salt and pepper.
Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, cool them, take out the
yolks, and mash them as fine as possible. Add to these
the melted butter and lemon juice, the chicken chopped
very fine, and salt, pepper and the stock. If the stock
cannot be conveniently procured, use a tea-spoonful of
Leibig's Extract of Beef, which may always be bought.
Mix all well together. A sort of paste will be the result,
and with this may be made very delicate sandwiches for a
company late supper, card party, etc.
CHICKEN DISHES.
One is fairly bewildered at the hundreds of dishes that
are prepared from shredded cooked chicken or from any
left-over pieces. Most of the chicken entrees are pre-
pared from the breasts alone, and these are called fillers.
One dainty preparation of cold roast or boiled chicken is
called
MEATS. 225
CHICKEN a r Italienne.
One pint of chicken meat.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Twelve drops of onion juice.
Three hard-boiled eggs.
One-half pint of cream or milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Cut the meat into dice to measure. Heat the butter
and stir in the flour ; then cook for two minutes, stirring
constantly, and taking care the flour does not brown.
Add the milk or cream, and stir until boiling. Remove
from the fire, and add the chicken and seasoning. Mix
carefully, and place the sauce-pan in another containing
hot water, or else use a milk boiler. When the mixture
is thoroughly heated, remove it from the fire and dish.
Boil the eggs ten minutes, and lay them in cold water to
be ready to use when the chicken is done. Separate the
yolks, and press them through the potato-masher ; or
they may be worked through a fine sieve, the latter
being, however, very slow work. Sprinkle the yolks
thus powdered over the top of the chicken, and serve.
This makes a very attractive-looking dish and forms a
palatable entre'e for dinner. Another dish of this kind is
BOUDIN a la Reine.
One pint of chicken meat.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Two table-spoonsfuls of dried bread-crumbs.
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One-half cupful of stock or water.
One-quarter of a nutmeg.
Salt and pepper to taste.
'5
226 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Heat the butter, and add the crumbs and stock. Re-
move from the fire, and add the chicken chopped fine,
the parsley, the nutmeg grated, salt and pepper, and
lastly the eggs slightly beaten. Mix all thoroughly, and
place the mixture in tea or custard cups, filling the cups
two-thirds full. Half fill a baking pan with boiling water,
set the cups in the water, and bake twenty minutes in a
moderate oven. When done, turn the contents of each
cup out upon a heated dish, and pour around them a
cream sauce. Remnants of cold roasted or boiled turkey
may be used in the same way.
GEESE.
These fowls live to be very old, and for that reason
great care is needed in selecting them. They are not
good after they are three years old, and they are in per-
fection when from six months to a year old. A young
goose has down on its legs, and the legs are soft and yel-
low. Like a turkey, as it grows old its legs change to a
reddish color.
ROAST GOOSE, WITH POTATO STUFFING.
Clean the goose as directed for any poultry, cutting off
the neck and arranging the breast for stuffing, the same
as for roast turkey. Geese, when properly dressed, are
always filled with potato stuffing.
POTATO STUFFING.
Six potatoes.
One tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of sage.
One table-spoonful of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of onion juice.
MEATS. 227
Pare and boil the potatoes, and mash them fine. ' Add
the seasoning, and fill the breast and body with the
stuffing, laying it in lightly. Sew and truss the same as
directed for turkey, sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour,
and cover the breast with slices of fat salt pork. The
goose is not a favorite on account of the quantity of oil it
contains and the disagreeable taste of the oil. The pork
fat is quickly drawn out by the heat, flows over the goose
and aids in drawing out the oil. When the goose has
roasted forty-five minutes, take it from the oven, remove
the pork, baste well with the oil in the pan, and pour off
some of the oil if there should be a large quantity. Baste
every fifteen minutes after the goose has roasted twenty-
five or thirty minutes, the same as for turkey. Boil the
giblets, and make the gravy as directed on page 205. If
the oil is so much disliked that it cannot be used for the
gravy, make the following gravy : Place two table-spoon-
fuls of butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, stir in two
table-spoonfuls of flour. After the flour has cooked
brown, add gradually the water in which the giblets were
boiled, and lastly the chopped giblets, adding hot water
also if the gravy should seem too thick. Season with
salt and pepper. Apple sauce should always be served
with roast goose. Goslings may be roasted in the same
way, allowing, however, but fifteen minutes to a pound for
cooking.
DEVILED GOOSE.
After cleaning the goose and wiping it well with a
damp cloth, plunge it into a kettle of boiling water, and
boil moderately for one hour. Take it from the kettle,
drain well, and wipe it dry. Fill the body and neck with
228 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
the potato stuffing described in the preceding recipe,
truss and sew up the same as directed for roast turkey,
and roast in a very hot oven, allowing fifteen minutes to
a pound. Then mix together
Four table-spoonfuls of vinegar.
Two table-spoonfuls of pepper.
Two table-spoonfuls of made mustard.
Pour this over the goose as it is put in the oven, and
baste frequently with the liquid at the bottom of the pan.
Boil the giblets, and make the gravy as directed for roast
turkey. This way of dressing is particularly nice for
those who do not care for the flavor of the goose. An
old goose that can be cooked in no other way may be so
dressed, two hours being allowed for the boiling instead
of one.
DUCKS.
ROAST DUCK.
Epicures prefer ducks cooked rare, and when so pre-
pared they are not stuffed. Should filling be preferred,
use the potato stuffing on page 226, putting it in very
hot. Many who consider that clucks have a strong
flavor lay apples in the body, having them cored and
quartered. The apples absorb this flavor and are re-
moved before the duck is sent to the table. Celery and
onion are also placed inside the duck to season it and im-
prove the flavor, two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion
being used to every cupful of chopped celery, which may
consist of the green stalks that are not desired for the
table. This stuffing is also removed from the fowl before
it is sent to the table. Truss the duck, sprinkle it with
MEA TS. 229
salt, pepper and flour, and roast thirty minutes, provided
the duck is young and is desired rare. Full-grown do-
mestic ducks should be roasted at least an hour and
basted every ten minutes.
Make the giblet gravy, and send apple sauce or grape
or currant jelly to the table with the ducks. Green peas
should be served with roast duck.
WILD DUCKS. /
Nearly all wild ducks are apt to have a fishy flavor,
and when dressed by an inexperienced cook are often
unfit to eat. This flavor may be much lessened by plac-
ing in each duck a small peeled carrot, plunging the fowls
in boiling water and boiling them ten minutes before
roasting. The carrot will absorb the unpleasant taste.
An onion will have the same effect, but unless onion is
used in the stuffing, the carrot is to.be preferred. When
there is an objection to parboiling (which there always
should be when very young ducks are to be cooked), rub
the ducks lightly with an onion cut in two, and put three
or four uncooked cranberries in each before cooking.
ROAST WILD DUCK.
Clean the same as turkey, wiping both inside and out
with a damp towel. After parboiling or using the cran-
berries, as directed, tuck back, the wings and truss the
legs down close to the body. Dust the fowls with salt,
pepper and flour, put a piece of butter the size of a wal-
nut in each, place them in a baking pan, and add a cup-
ful of water. Bake from forty-five minutes to an hour if
liked well done, or thirty minutes if liked rare, basting
frequently with the gravy in the pan. When done,
230 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
thicken the gravy. Wild ducks are seldom stuffed when
roasted.
TO COOK THE MALLARD WILD DUCK.
These ducks, which are shot in the West, are consid-
ered very dry when roasted in the usual way. In Kansas
they are stuffed with the common bread stuffing well
sewed up and tied in shape. They are then placed
in a large kettle with a couple of slices of onion
and a little thyme, and a small quantity of water is
added. They are cooked slowly for one hour, being
turned frequently. The water should be replenished, but
only enough should be added to keep the ducks from
burning. A gravy is made from the juices in the kettle
by adding a cupful of water to them and thickening with
flour. This gravy is poured over the ducks when served.
Dressed in this way all parts are equally as good as the
breast, and the gravy is not the least delicious part of the
whole.
GUINEA FOWLS.
Young guinea fowls make a delicious fricassee. Clean
them, and cut them in pieces the same as chickens.
Place some slices of fat bacon in a frying-pan, and when
these have fried long enough to extract some of the oil,
add the pieces of fowl and brown them well. To every
two fowls add to the pan two table-spoonfuls of flour, stir
until thoroughly mixed, and then add a pint of hot water,
a tea-spoonful of salt and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of
pepper, stirring until the gravy boils. Cover well, and
simmer in a gentle heat until the meat is tender, which is
generally in an hour and a-half. Serve with the gravy
MEATS.
from the bottom of the pan, adding more salt and pepper,
if needed.
PEA FOWLS.
The peacock and the peahen are cooked the same as
turkeys.
PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, QUAIL AND GROUSE.
The real pheasant is not sold in America. The bird
known by that name in the South is called a partridge in
the North, but is, properly speaking, the ruffled grouse.
The Northern quail is the English and Southern par-
tridge. The wild fowls brought so plentifully from the
West to Eastern cities and called prairie fowls are a
species of grouse. The methods of cooking all these
birds are substantially the same. They should never be
washed, but simply wiped with a damp towel, all shot
being carefully picked out of the flesh with a sharp-
pointed knife. Partridges are cooked in forty minutes
and quail in ten.
ROASTED.
Clean, truss and stuff the birds the same as turkey, and
bake until brown, basting often with butter and water.
Thicken the gravy, and pour it over the birds.
BROILED.
Clean the birds and split them down the back.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dust with flour to keep in
the juices, and broil in a wire broiler, laying the inside
to the fire first. When clone, lay them on a warm dish,
butter them on both sides, and serve. During the broil-
232 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
ing, if the breasts are quite thick, cover the broiler with
a pan, and see that the fire is not too fierce. Broiled
quail are considered very nourishing food for invalids.
PANNED.
Clean, and split the birds down the back. - Dip them
quickly in cold water, and sprinkle with salt, pepper and
flour. The water causes the seasoning to adhere more
thickly to the meat. Place the birds in a small baking-
dish, with the inside of each upward ; place a small
piece of butter in each bird, add a cupful of water, and
roast in the oven, basting every five minutes after the
first fifteen. Thicken the gravy, add salt and pepper, if
necessary, and pour the gravy over the birds.
SMALL BIRDS.
Nearly all small birds are served with their heads on,
these being skinned when the birds are cleaned. There
is a difference of opinion among epicures as to the draw-
ing of these birds, many cooking them undrawn. The
English do not draw woodcock, regarding the trail as not
the least delicious part of the bird ; and some American
housekeepers copy them in this respect. It seems, how-
ever, that in time the custom of eating entrails (a relic
of barbarism) and of serving birds without first removing
their heads will become obsolete.
SNIPE, ROASTED.
Clean and truss, but do not stuff the birds, and lay
them in rows in a baking-pan ; sprinkle with salt, and
baste well with butter and water. When they begin to
brown, which should be in ten minutes, cut as many slices
MEATS. 233 '
of bread as there are birds, round the slices, cutting off
the crusts, toast them quickly, and butter lightly while
hot. Slip a slice of toast under each bird in the baking-
pan, and bake the remaining five minutes, basting the
birds with melted butter. Place them on the platter,
with the toast under them ; then thicken what gravy
there may be in the pan, adding a little water to it ;
and pour it over the snipe and toast. The largest snipe
will not require more than twenty minutes cooking, if the
oven is hot enough.
SNIPE, FRIED.
Clean the birds, and wipe them dry ; tie the legs close
to the body, skin the head, after picking the feathers off
as near the head as possible, and tie the beak of each
bird under one of its wings, tying also a thin slice of
bacon around each breast. Place the birds in a frying-
basket, and fry in plenty of hot fat until of a delicate
brown. This should not take over five minutes* if the
fat is as hot as it should be. Season, and serve on
toast.
WOODCOCK.
This is the most delicious of the small birds and may
be roasted, panned or broiled the same as pheasants.
Among epicures a favorite dish is known as
BARDED WOODCOCK.
Remove the crop, skin the head, and take out the eyes ;
scald the feet and legs, and skin them as high as the
first joint. Draw the bird or not, as may be preferred.
Sprinkle well with salt, and, drawing the head down
234 THE PATTERN
to the feet, wrap the bird in a thin slice of clear salt
pork ; run a skewer through to keep the pork, head
and feet in position, and run from three to six birds
on each skewer. Rub soft butter over the parts not
covered by the pork, and dredge all with flour. Place
toasted bread under each bird in the baking-pan, as
described for roasted snipe, rest the ends of the skewers
on the edges of the pan, place the latter in a very
hot oven, and cook ten minutes fifteen, if the oven
is not extra hot. On removing the pan from the oven,
draw out the skewer gently, slip each bird on its slice of
toast, and serve very hot, pouring the gravy from the
pan over all. Any small birds may be cooked in this
way.
SMALL BIRDS, ROASTED IN POTATOES.
Halve sweet potatoes lengthwise, and scrape out the
inside, making a place large enough in each half to hold
half the bird. Clean and draw the birds, cutting off
heads and legs, the same as directed for turkey. Place
a piece of butter in each bird, season with salt and pep-
per, spread them with butter, and place them in the po-
tato shells, tying a string around each potato to hold
the pieces together. Roast in a baking-pan, and serve in
the potatoes.
PIGEONS.
These are drawn, singed and roasted or broiled the
same as chickens.
SQUABS.
Squabs are broiled or roasted whole the same as wood-
cock, and are very delicious when carefully prepared.
MEATS. 235
RABBITS.
The tame rabbit is rarely if ever eaten. The "old
hare" of the South is the same as the rabbit of the North,
and when fat and tender, may be made into a variety of
dishes. The wild rabbit of America is almost equal in
flavor to the English hare and may be dressed in the
same way.
JUGGED RABBIT.
Have the rabbit skinned by the butcher, draw it, and
wash quickly. Cut it into pieces and roll each piece in
flour. Heat half a cupful. of butter in a frying-pan, and
put in the meat to brown well on all sides. Then remove
the meat, and place it in a sauce-pan. Put in the fat in
the frying-pan two table-spoonfuls of flour, stir until
brown, add three cupfuls of water, cook ten minutes
and pour the gravy over the meat in the stew-pan. Now
add salt, pepper, a little spice and a small onion, uncut.
Cover closely, simmer an hour and a-half, and add a
table-spoonful of lemon-juice, a table-spoonful of mush-
room ketchup (or any other kind that may be at hand)
and four table-spoonfuls of sherry wine. Serve at once,
and send with it to the table a dish of boiled rice. The
wine may be omitted, but it adds greatly to the flavor.
FRICASSEED RABBIT.
This is prepared the same as fricasseed chicken, either
white or brown.
FRIED RABBITS.
Cut the rabbits in pieces, as for fricassee, dip each
piece in beaten egg and then in cracker dust, and fry
brown in plenty of hot fat.
236 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
SQUIRRELS.
The large gray squirrel is seldom eaten at the North,
but is much liked in the Southern States. Squirrels are
cooked the same as rabbits, or are made into the popular
dish known as
BRUNSWICK STEW.
This is named from a county in Virginia and is a favor-
ite dish in that section of the country.
Two large squirrels.
One quart of tomato, peeled and sliced.
One pint of butter beans or limas:
One and one-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
Two tea-spoonfuls of white sugar.
One onion, minced small.
Six potatoes.
Six ears of corn, cut from the cob.
One-half pound of butter.
One-half pound of salt pork.
One table-spoonful of salt.
Four quarts of water.
Cut the squirrels in pieces, as for a fricassee. Add
the salt to the water, and boil five minutes. Put in the
onion, beans, corn, pork, potato, pepper and the squirrels.
Cover closely, and stew two hours ; then add the sugar
and tomato, and stew one hour more. Ten minutes be-
fore removing the stew from the fire, add the butter, cut
into pieces the size of a walnut and rolled in flour. Boil
up again, adding more salt and pepper if needed, and
turn into a tureen. This is to be eaten from soup plates.
MEATS, 237
VENISON.
The taste for this meat is certainly an acquired one,
but there is much to recommend -the cultivation of it,
since venison is one of the most easily digested of meats.
The meat should be of fine grain and nicely covered with
fat. If the venison is young, the hoof will be but slightly
opened ; if old, the hoof will be wide open. Venison,
like all game, is not usually fat enough, and is always
enriched by larding, or by placing slices of fat salt pork
or bacon over it. The fat and juices are sometimes kept
in by a thick layer of flour paste. Venison should al-
ways be well wiped before cooking, as the hairs are often
found clinging to the meat.
ROAST LEG OF VENISON.
Wipe carefully, and draw off the dry skin. Lard the
lean side of the leg ; then soften a quarter of a cupful of
butter, rub it over the meat, and dredge with salt, pepper
and flour. Lay the leg on the rack in the baking-pan,
sprinkle the bottom of the pan with flour, place it in a
very hot oven, and watch carefully until the flour in the
pan is browned, which should be in five minutes. Add
boiling water to cover the bottom of the pan, and after
roasting fifteen minutes, baste the venison well, and re-
peat the basting every fifteen minutes until the meat is
done, renewing the water in the pan as often as neces-
sary. Should the meat be liked very rare, allow for a
ten-pound roast, an hour and a-quarter of cooking; but
most tastes require at least fifteen minutes longer than
that. Serve with a gravy made from the juices in the
bottom of the pan, the same as that for roast beef, send-
238 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
ing the gravy to table in a gravy-boat. Always serve
currant jelly with venison. The oven must be very hot
the first half-hour, and after that the heat may be lessened
somewhat.
THE SADDLE OF VENISON.
The saddle is, perhaps, the most distinguished cut of
venison and is roasted the same as the leg.
VENISON STEAKS.
These are broiled rare the same as beefsteak.
VENISON, ROLLED.
This is made the same as stuffed beefsteak.
Game should not be kept too long.
Venison may be hung three weeks in cold weather, but
birds should rarely be hung longer than one week. If
birds are to be kept many days, draw but do not pick
them, place a piece of charcoal in the body, and sift
powdered charcoal into the feathers.
VEGETABLES.
" Cheerful looks makes every dish a feast."
MASSINGER.
WE need a large variety of vegetables in our food to
promote perfect health. Vegetables are rich in saline
substances, which counteract the evil effect of too much
animal food ; and those that contain starch and albumen
and can be stored for use during the winter months are
considered the most valuable. Peas, beans, squashes,
beets and turnips, which contain sugar, should be slightly
sweetened, as much of the natural sweetness is lost in
the cooking. Those that contain potash salts, as cab-
bage and lettuce, need an acid condiment. When peas,
beans and other vegetables are found difficult of diges-
tion, they may often be eaten safely if made in the form
of a puree.
All green vegetables should be freshly gathered,
washed well in cold water, and cooked in freshly boiled
water until tender, but no longer.
After water has boiled for a time, it parts with its
gases and becomes hard ; and most vegetables are better
cooked in soft water. It is well known that split peas,
dried beans and lentils will not boil soft in hard water.
In some cases, however, the solvent power o'f pure soft
239
240 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
water is so great that it destroys the firmness, color and
skin of some of the green vegetables, so that their juices
pass out into the water. This is especially true of green
peas and beans ; and in such cases hard water is better
than soft. A tea-spoonful of common salt added to every
four quarts of water hardens it at once, while half a tea-
spoonful of bi-carbonate of soda placed in the same quan-
tity of water renders it soft. French cooks recommend
half a tea-spooonful of ammonia for the latter purpose.
Young, green vegetables, therefore, should be cooked in
boiling salted water. Onions, if boiled in soft water, are
almost tasteless, and no after salting can restore the
sweet saline taste and aroma which they possess when
boiled in hard (salted) water. If green vegetables are
wilted, soak them for an hour in cold water. Do not add
salt, as it hardens the tissues.
Peas, beans and lentils are the most nutritious of vege-
table substances. They are said to contain as much
carbon (heat-giving food) as wheat, and almost double
the amount of nitrogen (muscle-forming food). Lentils
are almost unknown in this country, except to the Ger-
mans, who use them for soup, which, though made
entirely without meat, is most nutritious. Lentils afford
the most concentrated form of vegetable diet, and in
olden times their value was fully appreciated. Esau sold
his birthright, we are told, for a mess of lentil pottage,
and we read that the pyramids were built by men who
lived on lentils, garlic and water. In the time of Pha-
raoh lentils were considered a dish to be served to per-
sons of distinction. It is much to be deplored that we,
as a people, do not use this vegetable freely.
Vegetables that have been stored in the autumn for
VEGETABLES. 241
winter use become much wilted as the season advances.
Carrots, turnips, potatoes, onions and cabbage that were
crisp and delicate at first get strong-flavored as well as
withered and dried. These should stand several hours
in cold water before being cooked and should then be
boiled in four times their quantity of water. Cooking in
insufficient water will make them dark and give them a
very unpleasant flavor.
Lettuce that has become wilted will brighten if laid
in ice-water. Celery that seems unfit for use may be
made quite fresh again by being laid in a pan of luke-
warm water, which will then be set upon the ice, or out-
doors, if the weather is cold, to gradually cool. When
thoroughly cold the celery will be crisp and fresh.
Celery that is so wilted that it may actually be tied
in a knot has been revived most effectually by this
method.
Rice, hominy and macaroni are wisely used as vegeta-
bles during the winter and early spring.
PROPER VEGETABLES TO SERVE WITH MEATS.
Housekeepers are often perplexed about the choice of
a vegetable to accompany various kinds of meat and fish.
In American families of moderate means the dinner
seldom consists of more than three courses, and in very
many cases there are but two, the meat and .vegetables
and the dessert. In such a dinner several kinds of vege-
tables may be used, whereas in a dinner of several
courses only one or, at the most, two kinds of veg-
etables should be provided with each dish of meat or
fish.
16
242 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
FISH.
With fish may be served potatoes and tomatoes in any
form ; also cucumbers, onions and green peas. If the
fish is prepared with curry sauce as an accompaniment,
rice should also be served ; if dressed with a cream
sauce, any kind of potatoes, except fried, will be appro-
priate. Fish is so delicate that a vegetable of pro-
nounced flavor should never be served with it. Therefore
onions should be made as dainty as possible by being
boiled in a large quantity of water, which should be
changed several times ; they may then be drained and a
cream sauce added. It used to be the fashion to serve
nothing with fish, but bread, potatoes in some dainty
form, and green peas are now always provided with it.
ROAST BEEF AND BEEFSTEAK.
These are the only meats that have not some really
distinctive vegetable to accompany them. For this rea-
son any variety may be served with them.
CORNED BEEF.
There are some vegetables which appear almost indis-
pensable -with corned beef, such as potatoes, turnips,
cabbage, beets and carrots. There are, however, several
substitutes for cabbage, among them being spinach, beet
greens, Brussels-sprouts, dandelions and lettuce ; and
Kohl-rabi may take the place of turnips. Parsnips and
sweet potatoes are also good with corned beef.
MUTTON AND LAMB.
There may be about as great a variety of vegetables
served with these meats as with beef, but roast lamb is
VEGETABLES. 243
more frequently eaten with green peas and lettuce than
with anything else.
PORK.
With roast pork may be provided white or sweet pota-
toes, squash, onions, turnips, carrots, okra, parsnips,
tomatoes, spinach, cauliflower, Brussels-sprouts, Kohl-
rabi, salsify, rice or hominy. Always serve a dish of
apple sauce with pork.
VEAL.
Roast or braised veal is most appropriately accompa-
nied by young carrots, white turnips or spinach. Among
other vegetables that are also often served with this meat
are fresh peas, beans, asparagus, okra, tomatoes, dande-
lion, lettuce, parsnips, creamed cabbage, young beets or
beet greens.
POULTRY AND GAME.
With boiled or roasted turkey or chicken should be
eaten potatoes, cauliflower, turnips, stewed celery, onions,
macaroni or parsnips. Game of all kinds should be so
cooked and served that its natural flavor will be in no
way disguised. For this reason the sauces and vegeta-
bles should combine in a pleasing way with the game
flavor. Celery is always excellent and may be served
plain, stewed, with a white sauce or with mayonnaise
dressing. At a dinner of many courses it is customary
to serve with the game a sauce, a salad almost always an
uncooked vegetable and bread. Among the vegetables
that are good with any kind of game are green peas,
French beans, sweet potatoes, tomatoes either stuffed,
244 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
broiled or in a salad, white potatoes as croquettes or
puffs or fried in balls, cauliflower cooked au gratin, and
spinach a la creme ; and some care for stuffed olives as an
accompaniment of wild duck. Unless an olive sauce is
used, olives may be served with this game, but they must
be omitted if the sauce is provided. For roast goose the
vegetables are not numerous. Onions and potatoes are
considered necessary, and so is apple sauce. Sweet pota-
toes, squash, rice, turnips and beans are also appropriate
with roast goose.
In arranging a bill of fare, avoid placing two similar
vegetables in the same course. The common vegetables
that are more or less alike may be classified as follows :
1. Cabbage, chicory, spinach, lettuce, endive, dande-
lion, cauliflower, beet greens, Brussels-sprouts*
2. Turnips, salsify, Kohl-rabi.
3. Squash, sweet potatoes.
4. Shelled peas and beans.
5. Rice, hominy, macaroni, white potatoes.
Thus, if squash be served, sweet potatoes should not
appear in the same course ; or if turnips be served,
salsify should not.
POTATOES.
The potato is more generally used than any other
vegetable. It contains but little muscle-forming food and
is composed three-fourths of water, the other fourth con-
sisting largely of starch. In the spring sprouts begin to
grow at the expense of the starch, and if allowed to
remain, they soon exhaust all there is of good in the po-
tato ; hence they should be removed as soon as they
appear. The majority of housekeepers do not understand
VEGETABLES. 24$
the characteristics of this vegetable. It may be soaked
in water for twelve or more hours before being cooked
and will be improved rather than injured by the process,
but let it stand in but little moisture after it is cooked
and it will soon be spoiled. The starch in the raw
potato does not unite with moisture, but as soon as it is
cooked it absorbs water like a sponge. A good potato
will be light and mealy when boiled or baked, but if the
cooking be continued too long, the potato will become
dark, heavy and strong-flavored. If potatoes are desired
for warming over or for a salad, they should not be very
mealy. New potatoes, being rather moist, are to be pre-
ferred for these two purposes ; but potatoes that are to
be used in either of these two ways, and that are usually
mealy when boiled, may be greatly improved by taking
them from the water when a little underdone.
BOILED POTATOES.
There are so many ways of boiling potatoes that it is
really difficult to satisfy one's mind which is the best,
each mode being good, provided it is properly followed.
The French hold that by using too much water the flavor
of the potatoes becomes seriously impaired, but American
cooks always cover them well with water during the boil-
ing. Select potatoes of uniform size, wash and scrub
them well, and pare them or not, as may be desired.
Potatoes that are not prime and have any indication of
worm holes or decay should always be pared and these
blemishes removed. Let the potatoes soak an hour in
cold water, place them in a kettle, and cover with boiling
water, adding a table-spoonful of salt to every eight
potatoes after they have been boiling fifteen minutes.
246 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
They should boil only moderately, else the outside will
be broken before the center is cooked, which never hap-
pens except when the boiling has been too strong. Pota-
toes should be- done in thirty-five minutes. When tender,
pour off all the water, and set the kettle on the back part
of the range, with the cover half off to let the steam
escape. Serve very hot. If the potatoes are to be kept
any length of time, cover the kettle with a folded towel
after pouring off the water.
MASHED POTATOES.
Pare the potatoes carefully, and boil as above directed.
If they are very mealy when done, drain the water from
them and mash at once. If they do not seem mealy, set
them for a moment with the cover off the kettle, and they
will soon be ready for the mashing. Mash them well,
and to every quart of potatoes add
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
Hot milk or cream to moisten.
Mash the potatoes in the kettle in which they were
boiled, beat them with a fork or spoon until light and
creamy and turn out lightly in the warmed serving dish.
Do not smooth the potatoes, as that will make them com-
pact and heavy. By using the masher illustrated on
page 32, potatoes may be made very light.
BAKED POTATOES.
As the potato contains potash, which is an important
constituent of the blood and is freely given off in the
VE GE TA BLES. 247
water in boiling, potatoes are much more wholesome
when baked. Wash them well, place them in a baking-
pan, and bake in a quick oven for from thirty to forty-five
minutes. As all ovens do not bake alike, it is impossible
to give the exact length of time required. Shake the pan
at the end of twenty minutes to turn the potatoes.
When they may be mashed in the hands they are done.
Do not pierce them with a fork, as that allows the escape
of the steam and makes the potato heavy ; and serve as
soon as baked for the same reason.
PRINCESS POTATOES.
One pint of mashed potatoes.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
One egg, well beaten.
Cut the potato into strips two inches long, one inch
wide and half an inch thick ; or, if hurried, the potatoes
may be made into flat balls half an inch thick. Dip the
strips or balls first into the melted butter and then into
the egg, and lay them with a knife in a lightly buttered
tin pan. Cook in a hot oven for twelve minutes, and
serve.
POTATO FRITTERS.
Five cold boiled potatoes.
Five table-spoonfuls of flour.
Two eggs.
One-half cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Grate the potatoes. Mix the flour, baking powder and
salt well together, and add the potato, mixing as lightly
as possible. Add the milk, and the eggs, well beaten.
248 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Have ready a kettle containing boiling lard to the
depth of three inches. Drop in the mixture by spoon-
fuls, and fry eight minutes. Drain well, and serve. The
fat should be so hot that blue smoke rises from the
center of tne kettle.
CREAMED POTATO, WITH PARSLEY.
One quart of potatoes.
One tea-spoonful of flour.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One pint of milk.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
Use for this purpose cold boiled potatoes, chopped
rather coarsely andjneasured after chopping. Put them
in a stew-pan with the flour, salt and pepper, and when
the whole is well mixed, add the milk. Set the stew-pan
in another containing boiling water, and cook until the
mixture is boiling hot, usually fifteen minutes. Then add
the butter and parsley. Take the stew-pan from the
water, and set it where the potatoes will boil up once ;
then add more salt and pepper, if needed, and serve.
OMELET OF POTATO.
Nine potatoes of medium size.
One-third tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half a cupful of hot milk.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of salt.
Pare the potatoes, boil and mash them until fine and
light, and add salt, pepper, two table-spoonfuls of the
butter, and gradually the hot milk, beating all the
VE GE TA BLES, 249
time. Put the remaining spoonful of butter in a large
frying-pan, and when it is hot, turn in the potatoes,
spreading them smoothly. Cover the pan and set it
where its contents will brown slowly and evenly. When
done (generally in about ten minutes), fold the potatoes
the same as an omelet, turn them out upon a hot dish,
and serve.
POTATOES au Gratin.
One quart of cold potatoes.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One pint of milk.
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the butter, and add the flour. When the mixture
is smooth and frothy, draw the pan to a cooler part of the
range, and add the milk gradually and then the salt and
pepper. Butter a granite-ware or stone-china platter, and
spread upon it the cold potato cut into cubes. Season
with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with the parsley.
Cover the potatoes with the cream sauce, and bake in the
oven for twelve minutes. The cubes should be slightly
browned when served.
POTATO BALLS.
These are generally served with fish. With a vegetable
scoop, cut two quarts of balls out of raw potatoes, boil
them twelve minutes, and drain. Add to them
One tea-spoonful of lemon juice.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One quarter tea-spoonful of pepper
One table-spoonful of parsley.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
250 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Chop the parsley fine, stir all the seasoning into the
balls, and serve at once.
POTATOES ROASTED WITH MEAT.
This is a favorite way of cooking potatoes when veal,
pork or beef is to be roasted. They should not, how-
ever, be dry, hard and pale-colored, but soft and well
browned. The potatoes should not be small, else they
will bake dry and crusty. Pare the potatoes, boil them
fifteen minutes, and drain well. Then place them in the
baking-pan with the roast, and cook for forty-five minutes,
turning them often and basting with the gravy from the
roast. Serve them arranged about the meat. Some
cooks do not parboil the potatoes before putting them in
the pan, but the result is not so successful, especially
when beef is roasting, which requires so much less time
for cooking than either veal, pork or mutton.
STUFFED POTATOES.
Bake potatoes of equal size, and when they are done
and still hot, cut a small piece from one end of each and
carefully scoop out the inside, leaving the skin unbroken.
Mash the potato well, seasoning it with plenty of butter,
salt and pepper ; then return it with a small spoon to the
skins r leaving the potato protruding about an inch beyond
the skin. Set the potato on the opposite end, crushing
it a little to make it stand firmly. When enough skins
are filled roughen the potato that projects above the skin
with a knife or a fork, and place the potatoes in a very
hot oven to lightly brown the top. They should look
when done like baked potatoes burst open.
VEGETABLES. 2$l
SARATOGA CHIPS.
It requires a little plane or vegetable cutter to slice
potatoes intended to be cooked in this way. Ripe, new
potatoes are to be preferred if they can be obtained.
Pare the potatoes, and shave them with the cutter into
slices thinner than a wafer. Place the slices immediately
in ice water, cutting them over a bowl of ice water, if it
can be done conveniently, so the slices will reach the
water without any delay. Let them soak ten minutes,
take out a few slices at a time, and dry them well with a
soft towel. Have ready a kettle of boiling hot lard,
throw in the slices, a few at a time, and stir them with a
skimmer or spoon, to keep them separated. The pota-
toes must color quickly, but the fat must not be so hot as
to give them a dark appearance. When of a light-brown,
take them out, and place them on a piece of soft brown
paper in a colander; dredge with salt and set them in the
open oven to keep warm while the rest of the chips are
frying. Turn the first lot from the colander into a hot
dish, skim out the second frying and place them in the
colander; and so continue until all are fried. Two pota-
toes fried in this way will make a large dishful, and they
may be served cold if desired. Saratoga Chips make a
convenient dish for a company dinner, as they may be
made early in the day; but they must be kept in a dry
place that the slices may remain crisp and nice. They
also make a pretty garnish around game or meat of any
kind. In the large cities they are sold by the pound,
already fried and put up in neat boxes.
FRENCH FRIED POTATOES.
These potatoes must be served the moment they are
252 THE PA TTERN COOK-B OOK.
ready. They are sliced rather thin or else cut with a
vegetable spoon or into blocks or rhomboidal shapes.
Let the pieces stand one hour in cold water. Have
ready a frying-pan of very hot lard, dry the slices of po-
tato quickly on a towel, and drop them into the lard.
Take them out with a skimmer when done, and place
them in a colander set on a tin plate in the open oven, to
keep warm while the rest of the potatoes are frying.
When all are done, sprinkle with salt, and serve very hot.
When intended to garnish boiled or baked fish, the pota-
toes are cut in rather thick slices and then formed into
pretty shapes with the vegetable cutter.
FRIED POTATOES.
Cut cold boiled potatoes into slices a quarter of an
inch thick, and fry them in a frying-pan in a very little
lard, browning both' sides of the slices. Add more lard
as needed, and season the potatoes with salt and pepper
after frying.
POTATO PUFF.
Two cupfuls of cold mashed potato.
Two eggs.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One tea-cupful of milk.
Mash the potato well, and add the butter when melted.
Stir to a white cream, and add the eggs beaten very
lightly, and then the milk and the seasoning. Beat all
well together, and bake in a deep dish until nicely
browned. The potatoes should come from the oven light
and puffy.
VEGETABLES. 2$$
LYONNAISE POTATOES.
One pint of cold potatoes.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of minced onion.
One table-spoonful of chopped parsley.
Salt and pepper to taste.
The potatoes should be rather underdone to produce
the best results. Cut them into dice, and season with
salt and pepper. Fry the onion in the butter until yellow,
add the potato, and stir with a fork until both are of a
nice brown, being careful not to break the potatoes. A
little more butter may be required, as no vegetables absorb
so much butter as potatoes. When done, turn the pota-
toes out upon a hot dish, sprinkle the parsley over the
top, and serve hot.
TO COOK SMALL NEW POTATOES.
It is often a question what to do with new potatoes
that are very small. They are delicious cooked as
described below, and for this purpose the smaller they
are the better. Soak them one hour in cold water; then
rub off the skin with a coarse cloth, put them on the fire
to boil, and when tender remove them from the fire and
drain well. Then add to the potatoes enough milk to
nearly cover them, and heat it to boiling. When the milk
is hot, stir in one table-spoonful of butter rubbed to a
cream with one table-spoonful of flour. Stir well to pre-
vent the potatoes sticking to the stew-pan, being careful
not to break them ; and add salt and pepper, and more
butter, if desired. Serve hot in a deep dish. The milk
should be a thick cream and will prove a fine accompani-
ment for the potatoes. If preferred, the milk mav be
254 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
heated in a farina kettle and thickened while the potatoes
are draining, adding the latter when the gravy is ready.
None of the potatoes should be larger than a small egg.
SWEET POTATOES.
These may be baked, boiled or fried the same as the
white variety, but they are much to be preferred baked.
It is well known that sweet potatoes are much richer
when twice cooked, and in the South they are more fre-
quently cooked twice than once. They are boiled in
their "jackets," and when nearly done, are drained and
peeled and are laid in a small baking-tin ; a piece of but-
ter is then spread on each potato and a tea-spoonful of
sugar scattered over it, and all are baked until of a rich
brown color. The potatoes may be cut in two pieces if
very large. Sweet potatoes are roasted with meat the
same as white potatoes ; and in the South they are often
mashed, placed in a baking dish and browned in the
oven.
ESCALLOPED SWEET POTATOES.
This dish makes a nice entree for dinner and is also
appropriate for breakfast.
Three pints of cold boiled sweet potatoes.
One-third cupful of butter.
One-quarter cupful of boiling water.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Three tea-spoonfuls of sugar.
Slice the potato, and sprinkle with the salt and pepper.
Butter a large, shallow dish, and spread the potato in it,
making a layer not more than an inch thick. Melt the
VEGETABLES. 255
butter in the water, and add the sugar. Sprinkle one
quarter of this liquid over the potato, and set the latter
in a hot oven. In ten minutes sprinkle another quarter
of the liquid over the potatoes, and repeat this twice
more at intervals of ten minutes. After the last sprink-
ling, bake ten minutes (making forty in all), and serve
hot.
ARTICHOKE.
The artichoke has in the past been very little used in
America and its value has not been understood ; but it is
now becoming more popular. It belongs to the thistle
family, the flower being picked before it opens. In Eng-
land and France artichokes may be purchased for three
or four cents each, but in the Northern markets of t the
United States they range in price from twenty to forty
cents apiece ; in the South they are somewhat cheaper.
Artichokes when bought should be green and crisp, for if
the leaves are brown and dry it is a sign that the vegeta-
ble is old and stale. The small green heads are to be
preferred to the large ones that have leaves with dark
and broken edges. When small and tender, the artichoke
may be served raw as a salad. It consists of three parts,
the bottom, leaves and choke. The choke is not eaten
and may be removed or not, as preferred. If it is to be
removed, cut out the stem and save it ; then with the
point of a sharp knife cut around the base of the choke
and draw the latter out. Cut across the top of the arti-
choke to trim it. Then wash it and soak it for half
an hour in salted water, using one table-spoonful of
salt to two quarts of water. It will then be ready to
cook.
256 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
BOILED ARTICHOKE.
After removing the choke and soaking as directed,
press the stem back into the head, lay the whole in a ket-
tle and cover with boiling water, adding one tea-spoonful
of salt and two of lemon juice for every two quarts of
water. Boil gently for half an hour, if the vegetable is
young ten minutes longer, if old. Then take the arti-
choke from the water and drain. Serve hot with Becha-
mel sauce or sauce Hollandaise (see " Sauces"), pouring
the sauce around the artichoke or serving it separately.
When eating this vegetable, break the leaves off with the
fingers and dip the base or fleshy end in the sauce.
When the heads are small, one is provided for each per-
son at table ; but when they are large or expensive, they
may each be cut in two.
ASPARAGUS, STEWED.
Break the stalks in inch lengths, placing the tough
ends that are not fit to serve on a plate by themselves ;
and wash all well. Tie the tough pieces in a piece of
cheese-cloth, and lay them with the tender asparagus in
a kettle, with enough slightly salted water to just cover.
Close the kettle, and stew slowly until the asparagus is
tender, usually thirty minutes ; the water should be di-
minished by this time to a quantity just sufficient to keep
the asparagus from burning. Remove the cheese-cloth
and throw away its contents; season the remaining
asparagus with butter, salt and pepper, and serve at
once.
The tough stalks, which are usually thrown away, will
be found to impart considerable sweetness to the juices
VEGETABLES. 257
in the kettle ; and by tying them in the cloth, they may
be readily taken out when no longer required.
CREAMED ASPARAGUS.
Cook as directed in the preceding recipe, boiling the
water down until not more than a cupful remains. To
this add one cupful of cream or milk, and thicken with a
table-spoonful of flour rubbed to a paste with a little
cold milk. Add butter, salt and pepper to taste, and
serve at once.
ASPARAGUS ON TOAST.
Tie the stalks in a bundle, tying it in two places,
and keeping the heads all one way ; then cut off
the tough stalks, making those that remain of uniform
length ; and boil the latter slowly until tender in slightly
salted water. While they are boiling, prepare some thin
slices of toast. Lift the asparagus from the water with
two forks, lifting it by the strings, and lay it on a plat-
ter. Dip the toast very quickly in the water the aspara-
gus was boiled in, butter it lightly, and lay it on the serv-
ing dish. Distribute the asparagus evenly over the toast,
heaping it neatly. Butter generously, season with salt
and pepper, and serve. A sauce is sometimes poured
over the whole, and may be made as follows :
One-half pint of asparagus water.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat half a pint of the water the asparagus was boiled
in, and stir into it, when boiling, the flour and butter
258 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
rubbed to a cream. Add salt and pepper, and pour the
sauce over the toast and vegetable. Some cooks serve
sauce Hollandaise on the asparagus. (See page 138.)
ASPARAGUS IN AMBUSH.
One quart of asparagus tops.
Nine stale breakfast rolls.
Salt and pepper to taste.
One pint of milk.
Four eggs (yolks).
One table-spoonful of butter.
Wash the tops, boil them fifteen minutes in slightly
salted water, and drain. Cut the tops off the rolls, take
out the crumb, and set them in the oven to crisp, laying
each top by the roll from which it was cut. Heat the
milk in a double boiler, and when boiling, add the beaten
yolks, which have been thinned with two table-spoonfuls
of milk or water. Stir two minutes until the liquid is
like cream, add the butter, salt and pepper and the
cooked asparagus, and remove at once from the fire.
Take the rolls from the oven, and fill them with this mix-
ture, put on the tops, and serve hot. The asparagus
should not be cold when put in ; the preparation should
be so timed that the rolls and asparagus will be ready at
the same time.
LIMA BEANS.
If the green beans are used, put one pint of them into
just enough boiling salted water to cover, and boil slowly
until tender. This will take about an hour, if they are
cooked slowly enough. Drain off the water, and add
one cupful of milk or cream, a small piece of butter and
salt and pepper to taste. Let the beans simmer a mo-
VEGETABLES. 259
ment in the milk, and serve. If dried limas are used, they
should be soaked twelve hours in plenty of cold water ;
and when boiled, half a tea-spoonful of soda should be
added to the water.
CREAMED LIMA BEANS.
It is well known that much of the sweetness of lima
beans is lost in the water that is drained from them after
boiling. This flavor will all be saved by cooking them as
follows : Place the beans in a double boiler, or in a tin
pail set in a kettle of water. Cover them with milk,
close tightly the vessel containing the beans, and boil the
water in the under vessel for one hour. The milk will be
found deliciously strong of the bean flavoring. Season
with salt, butter and pepper, and serve. If the boiler is
tightly covered, the milk will not be too much reduced.
STRING BEANS.
Break off a little from each end of the pods to remove
the strings, break the pods into inch lengths, and place
them in a kettle with just enough water to cover. Add
half a dozen strips of salt pork, cover the kettle, and
cook slowly for one hour. The water by this time should
be nearly all evaporated. Season with a little salt and
pepper, and serve, the strips of pork being also placed
in the dish. Serve a piece of the pork with the beans to
each person at table.
STRING BEANS IN MILK.
After removing the strings, boil the beans in plenty of
salted water for one hour. Drain, add milk to nearly
cover them, and heat. When boiling, stir into the milk
260 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
a little flour made into a paste with a small quantity of
cold milk, using enough flour to make the milk creamy.
Boil two minutes, stirring all of the time ; add butter, salt
and pepper to taste, and serve hot.
BAKED BEANS. (See pages 197, 198.)
BEAN SOUP. (See page 92.)
BEETS.
Wash the beets carefully, bat do not cut or scrape
them nor remove any of the small roots at the bottom.
If the skin is broken before cooking the flavor and color
are much impaired by the water. Some cooks even rec-
ommend boiling them without being washed at all, and
this plan may be followed by those who care to go to that
extreme. Boil the beets in plenty of water. Young beets
will cook tender in one hour, but through the winter
months four hours will be found none too long. When
tender, throw the beets into a pan of cold water, and
quickly rub off the skin with the hands ; then slice them,
add salt and pepper and plenty of butter, and serve hot.
Should the beets be tough and withered, soak them for
twenty-four hours in plenty of cold water before trying to
cook them ; then boil them four or six hours very slowly.
In the late winter when old beets are alone to be had,
this will be the only way in which they can be boiled
tender, and even this will sometimes fail. The cold beets
left over may be covered with vinegar and used as pickles.
BRUSSELS-SPROUTS.
Pick off the dead leaves from the sprouts, soak the
latter in cold water for half an hour, wash them, and put
VEGETABLES. 261
them on the fire in plenty of slightly salted boiling water.
Boil until tender, thirty minutes being usually long enough.
Drain off the water, and place the sprouts in a frying-pan,
adding for every quart of them when uncooked,
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of flour.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Shake the pan over the fire until the sprouts become
slightly colored ; then turn them into a warm dish, and
serve. Brussels sprouts may also be cooked in milk the
same as string beans. (See page 259.)
CABBAGE WITH CORNED BEEF.
Cut the cabbage, if large, into quarters, and soak it
one hour in cold water. Add it to the boiling corned
beef an hour and a quarter before serving-time, and let
both boil very slowly. When tender, lift out the cabbage
with a skimmer into a colander, to drain ; remove the
stump of the cabbage, and with a knife slightly chop the
leaves. Add pepper, and salt also if the beef is not too
salt. Press out all the water possible from the cabbage,
and serve on a warm dish or around the corned beef, as
may be desired.
CABBAGE IN MILK.
Chop the cabbage fine, having soaked it for one hour
before chopping. Boil until tender in plenty of water,
usually forty-five minutes if the boiling is slow. Drain
well, cover with milk, and when hot, thicken to a cream
262 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
with a little flour rubbed to a smooth paste with a small
spoonful of butter. Boil one minute, stirring well ; add
salt and pepper, and serve. This is the most delicate
way of cooking cabbage.
CABBAGE HOT SLAW.
Chop the cabbage fine, after soaking it one hour in cold
water; and place it in an iron kettle with a cupful of vine-
gar. Cover the kettle and set it where the cabbage will
slowly stew for two hours, stirring often, and adding a
little more vinegar as that in the kettle evaporates, but
keeping only enough moisture in the kettle to keep the
cabbage from burning. Should the vinegar be very-
strong, weaken it with a little water. When the cabbage
is tender, add a little butter, salt and pepper, and serve
hot. The slaw, when cooked, should be of a delicate pink-
ish shade. It requires constant attention while cooking.
CABBAGE SALAD. (See Salads.)
CARROTS.
Scrape and wash the carrots, and cut them iri slices.
Boil them one hour in plenty of water; then drain off all
but half a cupful of the water, and add to the carrots one
tea-spoonful of sugar, and one of salt. Boil rapidly until
the water is all evaporated. Cover the carrots with milk,
and thicken this to a cream with a little flour wet to a
smooth paste with cold milk. Add butter, salt and pep-
per to taste, and serve hot.
Carrots may also be cooked the same as beets, adding
butter, salt and pepper after draining off the water, and
serving them after heating thoroughly. Or they may
VEGETABLES, 263
be boiled whole with corned beef, and served as a garnish
around the meat. It improves their appearance to cut
them into half-inch slices and then shape them with
the tin cutters.
BOILED CAULIFLOWER.
Remove the outer green leaves, cut off the stem close
to the flower, and wash well. Put the cauliflower head
downward in cold water, and let it soak for an hour, to
draw out any insects that may be there and to freshen the
flowers. Unless very large, do not cut it ; but if it must
be cut, quarter it neatly. Tie it in a piece of coarse
tarleton or cheese-cloth to prevent breaking, and place it
in a granite-ware stew-pan or a porcelain-lined kettle,
with plenty of slightly salted, boiling water. Cover, and
simmer half an hour, if the vegetable is of moderate
size. When clone, remove any scum that may have
arisen, lift the cauliflower carefully from the water, drain
well, take it from the cloth, and place it stem downward
in the serving dish. Pour over it a sauce made of
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One scanty pint of milk.
Beat the butter and flour to a cream, and pour over them
the boiling milk. Add the salt, and boil for five minutes,
stirring all the time. Sprinkle half a tea-spoonful of
salt over the cauliflower before pouring on the sauce.
BAKED CAULIFLOWER
Boil the vegetable tender as directed in the preceding
recipe, drain well, remove it from the cloth, and tear the
264 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
clusters or flowers from the stem. Place a layer of these
clusters in a baking dish. Have ready a sauce made of
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One pint of milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the butter, add the flour, and when the mixture
froths and is smooth, add the milk and seasoning.
Moisten the layer of cauliflower in the baking-dish with a
few spoonfuls of this sauce, and sprinkle over it some grated
cheese, using the latter according to taste. Then arrange
another layer of the cauliflower, add the rest of the sauce,
and sprinkle thickly with cheese and bread crumbs.
The dish will require about half a pint of crumbs and two
table-spoonfuls of cheese, or more, if a strong flavor is
desired. Bake twenty minutes, and serve in the same
dish.
CORN.
GREEN CORN, BOILED.
The time needed to cook corn varies with its age and
freshness. Tender corn should cook in fifteen minutes,
merely simmering for that length of time ; but old corn
often requires half an hour. Corn may be boiled either
with or without the husk. If without the husk, strip off
all of this outer covering, and remove every particle of
the silk. If the husk is to be left on, strip off the outer
leaves, turn back the innermost covering of two or three
leaves, pick off all the silk, and re-cover the ear with the
leaves turned back, tying it at the top with a bit of
thread. Place the corn in a stew-pan, and cover it with
VEGETABLE'S. 26$
boiling water, but do not add salt, as this would harden the
corn. When done, remove it from the fire, spread a nap-
kin on a flat dish, and lay the corn upon it, drawing the
ends of the napkin up so as to cover the corn ; serve at
once. When boiled in the husk, drain the corn well
before serving, and break each cob from the stem ; send
to the table in the napkin, but do not remove the husks.
HOW TO EAT GREEN CORN.
Score every row of kernel with a sharp knife ; then
butter the corn lightly, dust it with salt, and with the
teeth press out the center of the grains, leaving the hulls
on the cob. It is usually considered inelegant to eat
corn from the cob, but this method is the least trouble-
some.
GREEN CORN, STEWED.
This will be found a satisfactory way of cooldng corn
that is a little past its prime or is withered. Husk, and
boil the corn for ten minutes. As soon as it has cooled
enough to handle, draw a sharp knife down each row of
kernels, press the pulp from the hulls with the back of
the knife, place it in a stew-pan, and to every pint add
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of sugar.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Three-quarters cupful of cream or milk.
Let the whole simmer for ten minutes, and serve very
hot. Any corn that may be left over from some other
meal may be cut from the cob and cooked in this way.
266 7'HE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
CANNED CORN.
Place a pint of corn in a stew-pan, and add seasoning
and milk the same as given in the preceding recipe,
omitting the butter. Simmer ten minutes, add the butter,
and serve.
CORN PUDDING.
One dozen large ears of corn.
Four eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One pint of milk.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
Grate the corn from the cob. Beat the whites and yolks
of the eggs separately ; add the" yolks to the corn, then
the melted butter, then the milk, sugar and salt, and
lastly the beaten whites, stirring continually. Bake very
slowly for an hour and a-half, covering the dish until the
last twenty minutes, when the cover should be removed
and the pudding browned nicely. Serve with roast meat
of any kind. This can also be made of canned corn,
which must be chopped very fine before using.
SUCCOTASH.
This is made of green corn and Lima beans, although
string or butter beans may be used. Cut the corn care-
fully from the cob, and to each pint allow
One pint of Lima beans.
One-half pint of cream or milk.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
VEGETABLES. 267
Cover the beans with boiling water, and cook for thirty
minutes. Drain off the water, add the corn and the milk
or cream, and stew slowly for fifteen minutes, or longer,
if the corn is old ; then add the seasoning, and serve.
In winter, if dried corn and beans are used, soak both
separately over night. In the morning cover the beans
with fresh water, and boil them very gently for two hours.
Do not drain the water from the corn, but set the pan
containing it on the back of the range where it will be
well warmed without boiling, while the beans are cooking.
When the beans are tender, drain and add them to
the corn ; both should then have only water enough to
about cover them. Cook slowly for twenty minutes, and
drain off some of the water until there is not more than
two-thirds of a cupful left ; then add the milk and season-
ing. Succotash may also be made of canned corn and
beans.
CORN AND TOMATOES, STEWED.
Take equal quantities of green corn cut from the cob
and of sliced, peeled tomatoes, and stew them for half an
hour. Season with pepper, salt and butter, stew fifteen
minutes longer, and serve hot.
CORN AND TOMATOES, BAKED.
Use equal quantities of cooked corn cut from the cob,
and raw tomatoes peeled and sliced, adding to a pint of
each
One table-spoonful of salt.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
One-half pint of bread-crumbs.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
268 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Mix the seasoning with the corn and tomatoes, and pour
all into a baking dish. Spread the crumbs over the top,
dot them with the butter, and bake half an hour. This
is a satisfactory way of utilizing corn that has been left
over from dinner.
CORN SALAD OR FetticUS.
This is used as a salad, being very delicate when so
prepared ; or it may be washed and cooked the same as
spinach, which it much resembles.
CORN FRITTERS, NO. I.
One pint of grated corn.
One egg.
One-half cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of melted butter.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Flour to thicken.
Grate the corn from the cob. Beat the egg well, and
add it to the corn, and also the milk, melted butter, salt
and pepper. Stir the baking powder into a little of the
flour, and add it to the corn, stirring in enough flour to
make a rather thick batter. The fritters are fried upon a
griddle like batter-cakes, a table-spoonful of the batter
being used for each fritter. Canned corn may be used
when the fresh is not to be had. Chop this corn very
fine, and add two-thirds of a cupful of milk to each pint
used, the quantity of milk being thus slightly increased,
because the canned corn is not so moist as the fresh.
The above-mentioned quantities are sufficient for six
persons. Corn fritters are very nice served for luncheon.
YE GE TABLES. 269
CORN FRITTERS, NO. 2.
One can of corn.
One-half cupful of milk.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
Two eggs.
Salt to taste.
Chop the corn as fine as pulp, and add the rest of the
ingredients to it. Should there be but one egg at hand,
much more flour should be used to .make the batter stiff
enough. Fry as griddle-cakes, and serve hot.
CELERY.
Wash and scrape the stalks, and only use for the table
that which is white or but slightly green. Cut off the
green leaves, retaining the blanched ones that grow
nearest the heart. Lay the celery in cold water for one
hour before serving, and send it to table on a low, flat
dish, the high celery glasses being out of date. For the
method of freshening celery, see the general remarks on
vegetables on page 239. The parts not used on the
table may be served as a salad or may be cooked.
STEWED CELERY.
Wash the stalks clean, cut them into inch-long pieces,
and soak an hour in cold water. Drain, and place
the celery in a stew-pan, with boiling water to cover ;
and let it simmer slowly half an hour, by which
time the water should be so reduced as to measure
not quite half a cupful. Add a cupful of cream or
milk, and when the liquid boils, thicken it to a cream
2 70 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
with a little flour rubbed smooth in a tablespoonful of
butter. Add salt and pepper, and serve.
STEWED CELERY WITH BROWN SAUCE.
Boil the celery as directed in the preceding recipe.
Heat a table-spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and
when of a dark brown add a table-spoonful of flour.
Stir until the paste is smooth and quite dark. Then
drain the celery, and add to the butter and flour half a
pint of the water in which it was boiled. When the
sauce boils, season it with salt and pepper, pour over
the celery, and serve.
CUCUMBERS.
CUCUMBERS, RAW.
Pare the cucumbers neatly from end to end, and lay
them in ice-water for an hour ; then wipe them dry on a
towel, and slice thinly. Serve plainly at table, allow-
ing each person to season to taste with salt, pepper,
oil and vinegar. Or each cucumber may be cut in four
pieces from end to end, and these may be served upon a
long dish with cracked ice. When prepared in this way,
they are dipped in salt and pepper and eaten from the
fingers.
STEWED CUCUMBERS.
Pare and quarter the cucumbers and remove the seeds.
Place a table-spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, add
a small onion cut in slices, and fry until brown ; then
put in the cucumbers, and fry them until of a light
brown. Remove them from the pan, and add to the
gravy a table-spoonful of flour, mixing until smooth.
VEGETABLES. 2/1
Pour in half a pint of stock or water, stirring continually,
and add salt and pepper to taste. Now return the
cucumbers to the pan and stew gently for twenty min-
utes. Serve on toasted bread.
FRIED CUCUMBERS.
Pare the vegetables, and lay them in ice-water half
an hour. Cut them into lengthwise slices nearly half
an inch thick, and lay them in ice-water fifteen minutes
longer. Wipe each piece dry, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dredge with flour, and fry to a delicate brown
in lard or sweet drippings. Many declare this to be the
only wholesome method of preparing cucumbers.
STUFFED CUCUMBERS. (AN Entree?)
Six good-sized cucumbers.
One-half cupful of chopped veal.
Four table-spoonfuls of milk.
Three table-spoonful of bread-crumbs.
One egg.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of thyme.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of onion juice.
One tea-spoonful of butter.
One and a-half pint of chicken or veal stock.
Pare the cucumbers lightly, cut off the ends, and cut
each cucumber in two pieces crosswise. Remove the
seeds with an apple corer, lay the cucumbers in slightly
salted water, and set them in, a cool place. Chop the
veal fine. Place the milk and bread-crumbs in a sauce-
pan, and cook slowly ten minutes, or until a smooth
paste is formed. Add to this the rest of the ingredients,
2/2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
and mix well with the veal. Take the cucumbers from
the water, wipe them dry, and fill them with the mixture,
packing it solidly. Lay them in a stew-pan, and pour
over them the chicken or veal stock, or the same quantity
of water if there is no stock, adding a table-spoonful of
butter in case water is used. Add a bay-leaf also, and
salt and pepper to taste, and let the cucumbers simmer
forty-five minutes. When it is time to serve, place the
cucumbers on thin strips of toast, and pour over them a
sauce made of the following ingredients :
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One table-spoonful of lemon juice.
One cupful of veal or chicken stock.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One slice of carrot.
One slice of onion.
One sprig of parsley.
One clove.
One bay-leaf.
A grating of nutmeg.
Simmer all these together twenty minutes, adding the
lemon-juice last. Strain the sauce, pour it over the
cucumbers, and serve. If there is no stock, use in its
place the liquid in which the cucumbers were boiled.
DANDELIONS.
These are not fit to eat after they blossom, as they
then become bitter and stringy. Cut off the roots, pick
the greens over carefully, and wash them well in several
waters. Place them in a kettle, cover with boiling,
VEGETABLES. 273
salted water, and boil slowly for an hour. When done,
lift them into a colander, press them to drain out all
the water, and chop coarsely ; then add a table-spoon-
ful of butter, and salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
Dandelions are sometimes boiled with corned beef, the
same as cabbage. They are eaten with a little vinegar
sprinkled on each dishful.
EGG-PLANT.
Cut the egg-plant in slices a-quarter of an inch thick.
Pare the* slices, and lay them in very strong salt water,
placing a plate on top to keep them under the brine ;
and let them soak thus at 'least two hours. Drain,
wipe each slice dry, dip it in beaten egg and then in
cracker-crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry in
hot lard until well done and nicely browned. Egg-plant
belongs to the same family as potatoes and tobacco, all
of which contain a bitter juice, more or less poisonous.
This should be soaked out of the plant before using, or
it will be a decided failure. There is no vegetable in
the preparation of which the cook is less certain of suc-
cess than egg-plant, for often after every precaution has
been taken it will be too bitter to be eaten. Another
way of removing this bitterness is to pour boiling salted
water on the slices and let them remain in it an hour
before frying. Egg-plants should be fresh and glossy-
looking when purchased, else there can be no possible
chance of their success in whatever way they may be
cooked.
STUFFED EGG-PLANT.
Cut the plant in two parts lengthwise, and scoop out
the meat, leaving the rind about half an inch thick, that
18
2/4 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
the shape may be firm. Chop the pulp fine, season it
with salt and pepper and a table-spoonful of butter, and
cook in a frying-pan for ten minutes, stirring well ; then
add a scanty half-cupful of water and a cupful of bread-
crumbs. Sprinkle the interior of the shells with salt and
pepper, and fill them with the mixture. Spread a cupful
of crumbs on the surface of the mixture, place the two
pieces of plant in a baking-dish or deep pan, and pour
enough hot water into the pan to come half-way up the
sides of the plant. Bake an hour, and serve hot on a
napkin. The egg-plant will be found very delicate, and
it may be served either as a vegetable or an entree.
ENDIVE.
This vegetable is used as a winter salad and is gener-
ally dressed with celery or boiled beets, and garnished
with hard boiled eggs and a salad dressing poured over
all. It may also be cooked as in the following recipe.
CREAMED ENDIVE.
Wash the endive carefully, and pick off the outer green
leaves, leaving only the white part. Boil until tender,
drain well, return it to the kettle, and nearly cover with
milk. When the milk boils, thicken it with a little flour
stirred to a paste with a small quantity of cold milk,
season with butter, salt and pepper, and serve.
KALE.
This is cooked and served the same as spinach ; or it
may be v tied in a bundle, boiled like asparagus and
served on toast with a generous allowance of butter. It
may also be boiled in a bundle and drained well, after
VEGETABLES. 2/5
which milk will be added and thickened to a cream with
a little flour, the whole being seasoned with butter, salt
and pepper.
LENTILS, FRIED.
Wash and soak over night a pint of lentils. In the
morning drain, cover them with w'arm water in which has
been placed half a tea-spoonful of soda, and bring them
quickly to a boil. Boil gently for an hour, drain, cover
them again with fresh boiling soft water, and boil gently
until tender, this generally requiring an hour and a-half
longer. Test by mashing a lentil now and then ; if it
crushes quickly, they are done, and should then be
drained in a colander. Place two table -spoonfuls of but-
ter in a frying-pan, and when it is melted, add the lentils,
with salt and pepper to season ; stir them over the fire
for fifteen minutes, and serve.
MACARONI AND SPAGHETTI.
Macaroni is very valuable as an article of food, for it
contains a larger proportion of glutin than bread in fact,
it is the bread of the Italian laborer. In this country it
is not much used by the working classes, but for no good
reason, since it is not expensive and is most easily pre~-
pared. In selecting macaroni that which is of a yellow-
ish tint is to be preferred to the white.
BAKED MACARONI, WITH CHEESE.
Do not wash the macaroni. Break it into inch-lengths,
and throw it into boiling, salted water. Stir frequently to
prevent it settling to the bottom, and boil slowly. Mac-
aroni does not nearlv reach its full size when boiled
2/6 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
rapidly; hence forty-five minutes is none too long to
allow for its cooking. Turn it when done into a colander,
and drain well. Arrange a layer of macaroni in the
bottom of a pudding-dish, upon it strew some rich cheese
(the Parmesan is generally used), and scatter over this
some bits of butter. Add a sprinkling of salt and
pepper, then another layer of macaroni and cheese ; and
fill the dish in this order, having macaroni at the top,
buttered well, but without the cheese. Add a few spoon-
fuls of milk, and bake slowly until of a golden-brown hue,
half an hour being usually sufficient. Serve in the dish
in which it was baked.
STEWED MACARONI.
Boil the macaroni until soft, throw it into a colander,
and drain well ; then return it to the kettle, nearly cover
with milk, and season with butter, salt and pepper to
taste. Let all boil together for three minutes, and serve.
MACARONI AND TOMATOES.
One-quarter pound of spaghetti.
One-half pint of stewed tomatoes.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Take a handful of the long sticks, put the ends into
boiling, salted water, and as they soften, bend and coil
them in the water without breaking. Boil rather
briskly until done, drain in a colander, and stand the
colander in a pan of cold water for fifteen minutes. This
blanches the spaghetti. Place the butter in a frying-pan,
and when hot, add the flour and mix until smooth.
VEGETABLES. 2JJ
Then pour in the strained tomatoes, and when they boil,
add the spaghetti, boil up once, and serve without cutting.
MUSHROOMS.
During the Summer and Autumn, and more especially
in September and October, mushrooms abound in the
fields in many parts of the country ; and the wild mush-
rooms are decidedly superior to the cultivated variety.
It is highly important to be able to distinguish those which
are edible from the poisonous ones. Those which may
be eaten appear in old sod in a clear, open, sunny place
and spring up after low-lying fogs and heavy dews. Low,
damp and shady spots and around the stumps of decayed
trees are the places to shun in gathering mushrooms.
They are at first very small and supported on a short
foot-stalk ; and at this stage are called " button " mush-
rooms. Their growth is rapid. In an hour the mush-
room spreads like an umbrella and shows the gills
underneath, which should be of a pale salmon color. In
another hour this pretty color has changed to a dark
brown. The edible mushroom may be easily pulled, and
it has an agreeable smell, while the poisonous- variety
invariably has a putrid, rank odor and has yellow or
white gills. It is said that silver will turn black when
used to stir mushrooms that have even one poisonous
fungus among them.
To prepare mushrooms for cooking : cut off the stalks
and throw them away, unless they are very solid and
tender, when they may be cooked. Pare the cups and
drop them into a bowl of water, into which has been
squeezed the 'juice of half a lemon ; this will, keep the
mushrooms from darkening.
2/8 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK,
STEWED MUSHROOMS.
One quart of cleaned mushrooms.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half cupful of water.
Rub the flour to a smooth paste in the water. Put the
mushrooms, flour and seasoning together in a stew-pan,
and boil gently for five minutes, stirring constantly.
Serve very hot. When milk or cream is preferred in the
cooking, use but half the quantity of water, adding a cup-
ful of milk; and after boiling five minutes, serve as
above. If cream is used, allow but half the quantity of
butter, as the mushrooms are very rich.
SIMPLE STEW OF MUSHROOMS.
Clean a pint of mushrooms, cut them in rather small
pieces, and put them in a stew-pan with a table-spoon-
ful of butter and a little salt and pepper; let them sim-
mer ten minutes, and serve. Wild mushrooms are de-
licious cooked in this way.
BAKED MUSHROOMS.
Choose the large mushrooms, but if the round " but-
ton " mushrooms are obtainable, they are much to be pre-
ferred. Peel them, cut off the stalks close to the top,
and do not wash them unless they are soiled. Place
them upside down on a pie-dish, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, and put a tiny bit of butter in each upturned
cup. Bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven, basting twice
VEGETABLES. 2JQ
with a little melted butter ; and serve hot, pouring over
them whatever juice may be on the dish.
ROASTED MUSHROOMS.
Place the mushrooms in the tin, as directed in the pre-
ceding recipe, using only those that have not at all lost
their plumpness and erectness and are truly little cups.
Set the pan on the top of the stove, and cook for five min-
utes in a moderate heat. The cups will be filled with
their own liquor and the gravy from the seasoning.
Serve while very hot.
TO STEW CANNED MUSHROOMS.
In preparing canned mushrooms do not boil them, as
they are already cooked and the second cooking toughens
them. To a can of mushrooms allow
One egg (yolk only).
One-half pint of milk.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Put the butter in the stew-pan, and when hot, add the
flour, mix until smooth, and add the milk. Stir contin-
ually until the liquid boils ; then add the mushrooms, salt
and pepper, and stir until well heated. Take from the
fire, add the beaten yolk, stir it well in, and serve.
OKRA.
The pods of okra are so sticky that especial care is
needed to avoid breaking them while cleaning.
They should be well washed before the steins are re-
280 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
moved ; then place them in boiling salted water sufficient
to cover, and boil until tender. They should boil very
slowly, as rapid boiling will break them in pieces. It re-
quires an hour or more to cook this vegetable. When
tender, throw the okra into a colander, and when drained,
lay it in a dish. Heat together two table-spoonfuls of
butter, a table-spoonful of vinegar and a little salt and
pepper; mix well, and pour the sauce over the okra in
the dish. Okra is also boiled with strips of salt pork, the
same as string beans ; or it may be stewed with tomatoes,
the same as macaroni.
ONIONS.
BAKED ONIONS, NO. I.
The large Spanish onions are far milder and more deli-
cate than the usual winter varieties. Wash the onions
clean, trim the bottoms but do not peel, and boil for an
hour in slightly salted, boiling water. If the onions are
desired very mild, change the water twice during the
time, replenishing with more boiling water. Having
drained them well, take each onion separately, wipe it
dry and roll in a square of tissue or buttered paper,
twisting the paper at the top to keep it closed. Place
the onions in a baking-pan, and bake an hour in a slow
oven. When done, remove the papers, peel the onions
and place them in the serving dish ; pour melted butter
over them, dust with salt and pepper, and serve.
FAKED ONIONS, NO. 2.
Boil as directed in the preceding recipe, without
peeling, and bake an hour without enclosing them in
papers, but basting frequently with butter. When done,
VEGETABLES. 28 1
take them up carefully, peel, and lay them in the
serving dish, which should be placed where it will keep
warm. Set the pan upon the top of the stove, add to it a
cupful of milk, and, when this boils, stir in a table-spoon-
ful of flour wet with a little cold milk. When the whole
is creamy, add salt and pepper, and more butter, if de-
sired ; pour the sauce over the onions, and serve.
CREAMED ONIONS.
Peel the onions, and boil for an hour in plenty of salted
water. Drain well and cut each onion into four, six or
any desired number of pieces, over which pour a cream
sauce made of
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One pint of milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Rub the butter and flour to a cream ; heat the milk,
and when it boils, add the butter and flour. Stir the
sauce until of a creamy consistency, and flavor with salt
and pepper.
STEWED ONIONS.
Boil the onions as directed in the preceding recipe,
take them up carefully and drain, keeping them as nearly
whole as possible. Pour over them two table-spoonfuls
of melted butter, dust with a little salt and pepper, and
serve very hot.
FRIED PARSNIPS.
Scrape the parsnips, and boil them gently until tender,
usually an hour. Drain, and when cold, cut them in
282 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
long, thin slices about a-third of an inch thick, and sea-
son each slice with salt and pepper; dip the slices in
melted butter and then in flour, and fry in hot lard until
both sides are thoroughly browned. Drain well, and
serve.
BOILED PARSNIPS.
Scrape the parsnips, and boil them until tender. Drain
and cut them in small pieces. Place these in the kettle
or stew-pan in which the parsnips were boiled, add
enough milk to cover, and when the milk boils, thicken
it slightly with a little flour wet to a smooth paste with
cold milk. When the liquid is like cream, add butter,
salt a.nd pepper, and serve hot.
PARSNIP FRITTERS.
Three large parsnips.
Three table-spoonfuls of flour.
One table-spoonful of butter (melted).
Two eggs.
One cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Boil the parsnips until tender, grate fine or mash
them well, and pick out all the fibrous parts. Beat the
eggs light, and stir them into the parsnips, beating hard
until the whole is well mixed. Then add the butter,
which should be measured after it is melted, and then
the milk, salt and flour. Fry like doughnuts or on a
griddle.
GREEN PEAS.
Peas are fresh when the pods are green and crisp;
and, like corn, they lose their sweetness almost as soon
VEGETABLES. 283
as picked. If stale or wilted, they may be somewhat
freshened by being thrown into cold water as soon as
shelled and allowed to remain in it at least an hour
before cooking; and when boiling, a tea-spoonful of
sugar may be added to the water to restore their sweet-
ness. Fresh peas should not be shelled until just before
they are needed for cooking. Look them over carefully
after shelling, taking out any tendrils that may have got-
ten in with them ; place them in a kettle with just suffi-
cient boiling salted water to cover, and boil slowly until
tender. Young peas will cook in twenty minutes, but
those that are more mature require twice that time. The
water should not be drained from them when done ; if
nicely apportioned, there will be, when the cooking is
finished, only enough to serve with the peas. Add butter,
salt and pepper, and serve hot.
FRENCH PEAS.
Empty a can of French peas into a colander, and pour
cold water through them. Then place the peas in a
rather large-bottomed stew-pan, and add
One table-spoonful of butter.
Four table-spoonfuls of stock or water.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
Cook rapidly, with the pan uncovered, until the peas
have absorbed all the liquid ; and serve at once.
Fresh peas may also be finished in this way after they
have been boiled and drained.
All canned peas should have the liquor drained from
them and fresh water added before being placed over the
284 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
fire, as there is a peculiarly disagreeable taste about the
peas when cooked with the juices in the can.
PEA FRITTERS.
One pint of green peas.
One tea-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Two eggs.
One cupful of milk.
One-half cupful of flour.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
Cook the peas until tender, drain and mash them, and
while still hot add the butter, salt and pepper. When
cold, add the beaten eggs, the milk, and the flour with
the baking powder stirred into it. Stir all well, and fry
like griddle-cakes. These fritters are delicious for break-
fast. The peas may be cooked and seasoned the day
before ; or those left from a previous dinner may be
boiled until a little more tender and utilized as above.
BOILED RICE.
Wash thoroughly a cupful of rice, put it into a gran-
ite-ware stew-pan or kettle, and pour over it three quarts
of boiling water, adding a tea-spoonful of salt to the
water. Boil without covering the kettle ; the time of
boiling varies with the kind of rice, but fifteen minutes
is generally sufficient. Test the rice by pressing a few
grains between the fingers ; if soft, the rice has cooked
sufficiently and may then be turned into a colander to
drain, being shaken to remove all the water possible.
Toss the rice with a fork to the sides of the colander to
VEGETABLES. 285
facilitate the drying, set the colander on a tin dish or pie-
plate, and stand it in the oven to dry, leaving the oven-
door open. Or the colander may be placed on the back
of the range in a warm place, if the oven is in use. The
rice should dry in twenty minutes, and every grain should
be separate, tender, white and dry. It is eaten with
gravy the same as potatoes. To be a success, boiled
rice (which many housekeepers do not prepare properly)
should be taken from the water when it is just cooked
and not be allowed one minute's boiling after it has
reached that point. If boiled too long, it simply cannot
be dried off and is a mushy, soggy and most unappetizing
mess.
BAKED RICE.
Some housekeepers bake rice, when it is to be served as
a vegetable. Wash a cupful of rice, place it in a bak-
ing-dish with a quart of water and a tea-spoonful of salt,
and bake very slowly from an hour and a half to nearly
two hours. Serve in the same dish, and eat with meat
gravy poured over the rice. These rice dishes are partic-
ularly nice when there is a roast that furnishes a rich
gravy, such as beef or veal.
CURRY OF RICE.
This dish is appropriate with any kind of fish or meat
that has been prepared with a sauce. For a family of six
persons, allow
One cupful of rice.
Two and a-half cupfuls of boiling water.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt,
286 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Two tea-spoonfuls of curry powder.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of 'minced onion.
Wash the rice well, and soak it for twojiours in fresh
water; then drain. Place the butter and onion in a stew-
pan, and cook them until the onion is yellow ; acid the
rice, and stir the whole over a hot fire for five minutes.
Draw the pan out of the heat, season with the powder,
salt and pepper, stir well, and pour in the boiling water.
Cover the stew-pan, and boil rapidly for ten minutes,
after which set it in a very slow heat, to cook for forty
minutes, when the curry is ready to serve.
SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT.
Wash the salsify with a rough cloth, place it in a
kettle with plenty of boiling, salted water, and boil
slowly until nearly done, which will be an hour. Drain,
and when cool enough to handle, scrape off the dark
skin on the outside. Cut the vegetable in slices, return
it to the kettle, add hot water, and let it simmer fifteen
minutes. Drain again, add milk to nearly cover, and
thicken the milk to a cream with a little flour stirred
to a paste with cold milk. Add butter, salt and pepper
to taste, and serve. Salsify prepared in this way will not
turn dark, and it is much more easily scraped after being
boiled than before.
FRIED SALSIFY.
Boil, scrape off the skin, cut in slices, and fry like pars-
nips.
Salsify fritters are made the same as parsnip fritters.
VEGETABLES. . 287
SPINACH.
Spinach requires very careful washing to rid it of the
sand with which the leaves are so often filled. Pick the
spinach apart, throwing out the decayed portions, and
place it in a large panful of water. Wash the spinach
well, and lay it in a second pan of water ; wash again
and lay it back in the first pan, which has been refilled
with clear water. Continue washing thus until all trace
of sand has disappeared. Then boil the spinach half an
hour in two cupfuls of boiling, salted water, turn it into a
colander, and press out all the water possible. With a
knife chop the spinach rather coarsely, leaving it in the
colander for this cutting. Now return it to the kettle in
which it was boiled, add a table-spoonful of butter, and
salt and pepper to taste, and stir until very hot ; turn at
once into the serving dish, shape the spinach into around
mound, and lay on the top slices of hard boiled eggs.
Serve while hot.
SPINACH, WITH CREAM.
Boil, drain and chop the spinach as directed above
and make the following sauce :
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
One cupful of cream or milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the butter, add the flour, and stir until the mix-
ture is frothy. Add the chopped spinach, and cook for
four minutes, stirring constantly. Next put in the cream,
salt and pepper, cook three minutes, and serve on nicely
toasted bread.
288 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
SUMMER SQUASH, STEAMED.
There are many varieties of this vegetable. Unless the
squash is very tender, pare it thinly, cutting away little
but the outer rind. Cut it in slices, and if the seeds are
young and small, do not remove them ; if at all large,
however, take them out, lay the squash on a plate, set it
in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, and steam until
tender, usually from thirty to forty minutes. Take it
from the steamer, drain off any water that may be upon
it, place it in a stew-pan, and mash well. Add butter,
salt and pepper to taste, and set the stew-pan on the back
of the range for fifteen minutes, uncovered, for the squash
to dry as much as possible, stirring it once or twice
meanwhile. Re-heat, and serve. This kind of squash
may also be boiled and served in the same way, but it is
rather more wet when boiled than when steamed.
FRIED SQUASH.
Summer squash, which is often disappointing because
of its sogginess, will be found very satisfactory when
cooked in the following way : Peel the squash thinly, cut
it into slices a-quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle each slice
with salt and pepper, dip it in beaten egg and then in
cracker-crumbs, and fry in a frying-pan until crisp and
brown. Drain well, and serve.
WINTER SQUASH.
When the shell is hard, split the squash, remove the
seeds, and steam or boil until soft. Scrape out the soft
part of the squash, and to every pint add a table-
spoonful of butter, half a tea-spoonful of sugar, and salt
VEGETABLES. 289
and pepper to taste. Winter squashes are also baked in
the shell after the seeds have been removed. The soft
part is then scraped out, mashed, seasoned as directed
above, and served hot.
STEWED TOMATOES.
Pour boiling water on fresh tomatoes, and after they
have remained covered a minute, take them from this
water and plunge them into cold water. With a knife re-
move the skins and the hard stem ends, and cut the toma-
toes in pieces. Stew in a granite-ware or porcelain-lined
kettle for thirty minutes ; then add to every quart a table-
spoonful of butter, a tea-spoonful of salt and a-quarter of
a tea-spoonful of pepper. Stew until of the desired thick-
ness, and serve. Some prefer to add bread-crumbs or
cracker-crumbs for thickening, and to boil but thirty min-
utes. Canned tomatoes may be treated the same as fresh ?
but they do not require to be boiled so long.
ITALIAN TOMATO.
Half can or a pint of tomatoes.
One-third package of macaroni.
Two table-spoonfuls of grated cheese.
A little milk.
Three slices of bacon.
A small pinch of cinnamon.
Salt and pepper.
Cook the macaroni until tender, drain well, and nearly
cover it with milk; then add the cheese, and boil slowly
until the cheese is dissolved. Fry the bacon in a frying-
pan, pour off all but a large table-spoonful of the fat, add
the tomatoes to the pan, and cook until they are soft. Sea-
19
2QO THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
son with salt and pepper to taste, and the bit of spice.
Place the two dishes thus made together, pouring the
tomato over the macaroni ; and bake until brown. This
is sometimes served without baking.
SPANISH TOMATO.
One small onion.
One small green pepper.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Six fresh tomatoes.
Three crackers.
Salt to taste.
Chop the onion and the pepper very fine, peel and slice
the tomatoes, and roll the crackers. Place the tomatoes
in a baking dish, sprinkle over them the salt, onion and
pepper, add all the rolled cracker in one layer, and dot
the top with the butter, cut in pieces. Bake slowly an
hour.
BAKED TOMATOES.
Peel the tomatoes and cut them in slices a-quarter of
an inch thick. Place a layer of tomatoes in a pudding
dish, and sprinkle over them a little salt and pepper.
Make a stuffing of
One cupful of bread-crumbs.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
Rub the butter into the crumbs, and add the salt, pep-
per and sugar. Spread the mixture thickly upon the
tomatoes, using all of it, and add another layer of toma-
toes. Dot the top with pieces of butter, dust with pepper
VEGETABLES. 29 1
and a little sugar, strew with dry crumbs, and bake cov-
ered for half an hour; then remove the lid. and bake un-
til brown.
TURNIPS, MASHED.
Peel the turnips, cut them in slices, and lay them in
cold water for half an hour ; then place them in a stew-
pan, pour boiling water over them, and boil slowly until
tender, at least forty-five minutes being required. Drain
well, and mash the turnips in the stew-pan ; stand the pan
ten minutes uncovered on the back of the range to dry the
turnips well, stirring them frequently. Season with but-
ter, salt and pepper. Turnips require more pepper than
any other vegetable.
TURNIPS IN CREAM.
Peel the turnips, cut them in small pieces, and boil
until tender. Drain, add milk to nearly cover, and when
the milk boils, thicken it to a cream with a little flour,
stirred to a paste with cold milk. Add butter, salt and
pepper, boil two minutes, and serve.
STEWED TURNIPS.
Peel and slice the turnips and cut them into cubes-
Boil until tender, drain, and for three pints of turnips
measured before cooking, allow
One table-spoonful of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One-half pint of stock.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea spoonful of pepper.
Cook rapidly until the stock has almost boiled away,
then serve.
SALADS.
*
" Mingle, mingle, mingle
You that mingle may."
SHAKSPERE.
GREEN vegetables that are eaten raw and dressed with
oils, acids, salt and pepper are classed as salads. Pota-
toes, string beans, beets, asparagus and many other
vegetables which have been cooked are eaten cold with a
salad dressing. Lobster, salmon and other kinds of
cooked fish, eggs, chicken and delicate meats are com-
bined with lettuce, cresses or celery and salad dressing,
and furnish many appetizing dishes.
A Frenchman thinks he cannot eat his dinner without
a salad, and it would be well if all Americans had the
same appreciation of this wholesome, refreshing and, at
the same time, economical dish.
There are two kinds of dressing which are in very gen-
eral use, the mayonnaise and the French dressing. Epi-
cures prefer the simple French dressing for salads served
without fish or fowl ; and for chicken and fish salads and
for some kinds of vegetables, such as tomatoes and cauli-
flowers, they use the mayonnaise sauce. This choice of
dressings is almost universal in London and Paris. In
America we use the mayonnaise on all salads, which is
292
SALADS. 293
really to be deplored. A simple salad with French
dressing is, after all, the most satisfactory when one has
been served with a heavy dinner before it.
In giving recipes for salad-dressing it is almost impos-
sible to mention exact quantities, especially when we con-
sider the diversity of tastes. Delmonico, it is said, used
but one yolk as a foundation for a quart of oil, with salt
and cayenne for seasoning. In preparing dressing, use a
silver or wooden fork, a large soup-plate, which should
be very cold, the best oil and strong vinegar. A com-
mon question is, " What can we use in place of oil ? "
Cream and melted butter may be used, but they by no
means take the place of the oil. Green vegetables that
should be crisp but have become wilted can be freshened
by being laid in ice-water for at least an hour before
using, and then dried carefully on a soft towel, care
being taken not to bruise them. The dressing should
never be mixed with any salad until it is needed to serve,
and both salad and dressing should be served on as cold
a dish as possible.
SIMPLE FRENCH DRESSING.
Three table-spoonfuls of olive oil.
One table-spoonful of vinegar.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of onion, scraped fine.
Mix the pepper and salt together, add the oil and
onion, and then pour in the vinegar. Mingle all well,
and pour the dressing over the salad.
294
THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
MAYONNAISE; DRESSING, NO. i.
To make a pint of dressing (which should be suffi-
cient for twelve persons) use
Two eggs (yolks).
One tea-spoonful of mustard.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of cayenne.
Two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice.
Two table-spoonfuls of vinegar.
Twelve table-spoonfuls of olive oil.
In order to make this dressing properly, it is necessary
to have all the materials cold. The oil should stand in
the refrigerator for at least an hour before being used.
Place the yolks in a soup-plate, and beat them a
minute with a silver fork ; then add the salt, pepper and
mustard. Stir these well together, and commence to add
the oil, a few drops at a time, stirring continuously.
When the mixture becomes thick and ropy, the oil may
be added more freely ; and when the liquid is at this
stage, the vinegar should be added, half a tea-spoonful at
a time. After the dressing has become very thick, the oil
may be added, a table-spoonful at a time. When all the
vinegar is added, commence to add the lemon juice in
the same way, and stir continually until all the oil and
lemon juice are added. Set the dressing on the ice for
half an hour before using.
If the taste of the oil is not liked, four table-spoonfuls
of thick sweet cream, well whipped, may be stirred into
the dressing at the last ; this tones down the taste of the
oil. Thick whipped cream may be used in place of half
the oil, if the latter is very disagreeable to those served.
SALADS. 295
In warm weather this dressing may be prepared in half
the time by making it in a bowl set in a pan of cracked
ice and having both eggs and oil as cold as possible.
Should the dressing break or curdle, stir into it at once
the well beaten yolk of an egg, which will render all
smooth again.
MAYONNAISE DRESSING, NO. 2.
One egg -yolk (raw).
One egg-yolk (cooked).
One-half cupful of oil.
Vinegar to thin.
One-half tea-spoonful of made mustard.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half tea-spoonful of sugar.
Six drops of Worcestershire sauce.
Boil an egg ten minutes, and when cold, take out
the yolk, place it in a bowl, and mash finely with the
back of a silver spoon or with a wooden salad masher,
which is like a diminutive potato masher. When the
yolk is like powder, add the yolk of the raw egg, and stir
until the mixture is smooth ; then put in the sugar, salt,
pepper, mustard and sauce. When the whole is well
mixed, add the oil by degrees, stirring continually, and as
soon as all is used, stir in sufficient strong vinegar to
make the dressing the desired consistency. Place it on
the ice for an hour at least before using. If the vinegar
is not strong, the dressing will be too thin before it is
acid enough.
TO COLOR MAYONNAISE.
GREEN. Boil a double handful of spinach until ten-
296 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
der; then drain, cool and squeeze it dry. Pound or
mash the spinach well, adding a spoonful of the mayon-
naise. Pass the whole through a fine sieve, and mix it
with the dressing. Green peas, boiled and mashed, are
also used for this purpose, but the color is not so deep as
the other.
RED. Pound the coral of a lobster, pass it through a
fine sieve, and add it to the dressing. Dressing is often
colored in this way when needed for lobster or fish salad.
POTATO MAYONNAISE DRESSING.
Two-thirds cupful of mashed potato.
One egg (yolk only).
Four table-spoonfuls of oil.
One table-spoonful of vinegar.
One-half tea-spoonful of made mustard.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Four drops of Worcestershire sauce.
Mash the potato very smooth, and when it is cold, add
the beaten yolk of the egg, beating both together until
light ; then put in the mustard, salt, pepper and sauce.
When these are thoroughly mixed with the potato, add
the oil a few drops at a time, until all but one table-
spoonful has been used ; then add the vinegar and the
balance of the oil. This dressing will keep a week in a
cool place.
COOKED CREAM SALAD DRESSING.
Three eggs (yolks).
One table-spoonful of thick, sweet cream.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of lemon juice.
SALADS. 297
One salt-spoonful of celery salt.
One-eighth salt-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of made mustard.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
Beat the eggs lightly, add the cream, the butter, v melted
(but not to an oil), and the rest of the ingredients, stir-
ring all the time, and beating well after each addition.
Set the bowl containing the dressing in a saucepan of hot
water, and stir rapidly until the dressing thickens. Set
it on the ice to cool thoroughly before using.
CREAM SALAD DRESSING.
Two eggs (yolks), hard-boiled.
One-half dessert-spoonful of made mustard.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
Vinegar to thin.
One salt-spoonful of salt.
One-eighth salt-spoonful of pepper.
Five drops of Worcestershire sauce.
One-half tea-cupful of rich, sweet cream.
Boil the eggs hard, cool them and take out the yolks.
Mash the latter to a powder in a bowl, and add the salt,
pepper, mustard, sauce and butter. Stir after each addi-
tion until the whole is well mixed; then pour in grad-
ually the cream, and when the mixture is thick, add
vinegar to thin to the desired consistency. Set the dress-
ing on the ice one hour before using.
SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT CREAM OR OIL.
Two eggs (whites and yolks).
One tea-spoonful of dry mustard.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One large table-spoonful of butter.
298 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of corn-starch.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-cupful of vinegar.
Beat the whites and the yolks separately and then to-
gether, and add salt, sugar and the mustard. Rub the
butter and the corn-starch to a cream, and put them in,
stirring all well together. Place the bowl containing the
mixture into a sauce-pan of hot water, and stir constantly
until the dressing thickens. Remove from the fire, and
gradually pour in the vinegar, stirring all the time. If
the vinegar is too strong, dilute with a little water, but
this quantity of dressing allows for only a cupful of
liquid.
COOKED SALAD DRESSING.
Two table-spoonfuls of dry mustard.
Two eggs.
Two table-spoonfuls of -oil or melted butter.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of sugar.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper.
Twelve table-spoonfuls of vinegar.
Beat the yolks and the whites of the eggs separately and
then together ; then add the rest of the ingredients,
stirring constantly. Set the bowl containing the mix-
ture in a sauce-pan of boiling water, and cook until the
liquid thickens, stirring all the time. Set the dressing
on the ice, and use when perfectly cold.
CHICKEN SALAD.
Use only tender chickens for salad. Boil them, and
let them cool in the water in which thev were boiled.
SALADS. 299
When perfectly cold, remove the skin and cut the meat
in dice. If the salad is to be particularly nice, use only
the white meat, saving the dark for croquettes. When
the meat has been cut in pieces, set it in a cold place
until needed. Wash and cut the fine parts of celery into
half-inch lengths, throw the pieces into a bowl of cold
water, and leave them at least an hour. When ready
to serve, dry the celery, and mix it with the chicken,
allowing for every pint of meat two-thirds of a pint of
celery ; and season the whole with ' celery salt. Line
a bowl with lettuce leaves, lay the chicken and cel-
ery on the leaves, and pour over them the cream or
the mayonnaise salad-dressing, allowing a cupful of
dressing to every pint of chicken. Garnish with French
capers and slices of cold boiled eggs, or with white celery
tips.
Chicken for salad is often marinated before being used.
This is done by stirring into the cut meat a mixture con-
sisting of
Three table-spoonfuls of vinegar.
One table-spoonful of oil.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
This quantity will marinate a quart of chicken, which is
then set on the ice for an hour; the chicken will by that
time have absorbed the mixture, and be finely seasoned.
Chicken salad is as often served without the lettuce as
with it, this being a matter of taste. Veal cut in cubes is
sometimes used to increase the quantity of chicken when
a large amount of salad is required for any special pur-
pose. The white part of roast pork is also sometimes
300 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
used for this purpose, but this is a deception which, per-
haps, should not be encouraged.
LOBSTER SALAD.
In taking the meat from the lobster, the coral, if there
is any, should be carefully laid by itself. Cut the meat
into dice, and set it in a cool place until wanted ; or ii
may be put in a marinade of vinegar, oil and seasoning,
the same as chicken salad, and be much improved by the
extra seasoning. To a pint of meat will be required
two heads of lettuce and half a pint of mayonnaise dress-
ing. Wash the lettuce well, and lay it in ice water for at
least an hour. At serving time stir part of the dressing
into the lobster ; then dry the lettuce well, and place two
leaves together in the form of a shell; or if the leaves
are small, make a nest of them, arranging them on a flat
dish. Put a table-spoonful of lobster in each shell, and a
tea-spoonful of dressing on top of the lobster. Garnish
the top of the dressing with capers, and sift the pounded
coral over all, placing the claws of the lobster at the
outer edge of the dish.
Another very attractive way of serving lobster salad is
as follows. When removing the meat from the shells, be
careful not to break the body or tail shells. Clean the
two tail shells (for two lobsters are require'd to make any
reasonable quantity of salad), and also one of the body
shells in cold water, washing them well and drying ;
then with a pair of scissors remove the thin shell from
the under-side of the tails. Join the shells together in
the shape of a boat, the body shell being in the center ;
and place the boat on a flat dish. Put the lobster and
the Mayonnaise, well mixed, in the boat, mash the coral
SALADS. 3OI
fine and sprinkle it over the whole. Garnish with a
chain of the whites of hard-boiled eggs cut in slices and
linked together. Lettuce is not required with lobster
salad served in this way.
Canned lobster may be used for salad; and it is better
if opened some time before using, that the close, airless
smell may pass away.
FISH SALAD.
The remains of almost any cold fish may be used in
this way very satisfactorily, but salad is more successful
when made of fish that will flake nicely, such as salmon,
cod or haddock. Flake the fish coarsely, and mix it
lightly with dressing. The potato mayonnaise is espe-
cially nice with fish. Lay the fish on a bed of let-
tuce, pour the remainder of the salad dressing on it, and
serve at once. Canned salmon maybe used for salad. A
few slices of cold boiled potatoes form a palatable addi-
tion to a fish salad.
VEGETABLE SALADS.
Any remains of cooked vegetables may be most appe-
tizingly served as a salad, but certain kinds combine bet-
ter than others. In thus uniting vegetables, those of deli-
cate flavor should form the body of the salad, while only
a small proportion of those that are strong-flavored
should be used. Beets, being sweet, should be used
sparingly. A salad of vegetables may be made very
attractive or quite the reverse. Each vegetable should
be cut up and seasoned with salt and pepper. Any kind
of dressing may be used, the French being most fre-
quently chosen. Strew the vegetables in the salad bowl,
302 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
each kind in a separate layer (not making an " olla-
padrida" or mix of them), and sprinkle each layer with
the dressing. A quart of vegetables will require the
full quantity of dressing given in the recipe for French
dressing.
TOMATO SALAD.
Mayonnaise dressing is invariably used for this salad,
and it should be made thicker, or, rather, less vinegar
should be used, for two reasons : the tomato itself, being
so largely acid, does not require the dressing to be so
piquant, and the tomato gives off so much juice that the
dressing is much thinned by it. The dressing, therefore,
should be quite thick. When this salad is to be served
as a separate course, choose tomatoes that are not too
large, and peel them carefully with a sharp knife, tak-
ing care to preserve the round shape of the fruit.
Set them on the ice for an hour; then take them up, and
with a corer take out a neat piece from the stem portion
of each. This may also be done with a sharp-pointed
knife. Fill the cavity thus made with mayonnaise, heap-
ing it up as much as possible. Set the tomatoes on three
or four crisp lettuce leaves laid with their points outward,
and serve a tomato to each person at table. There are
many other ways of preparing this salad. A simple plan
is to peel the tomatoes, lay them on the ice to thoroughly
chill, cut them in rather thick slices, lay the slices in a
salad bowl or on a flat dish, and pour the mayonnaise
over all, using no lettuce at all. Serve a slice to each
one at table. The tomatoes may also be peeled,
chilled, cut in halves and set in a nest of lettuce leaves,
the dressing being poured over them and one-half served
SALADS. 303
to each person. The last method is very convenient
when the tomatoes are too large to serve one to each per-
son.
POTATO SALAD.
There is no salad in which there is such an opportunity
for a variety of combinations as in this. New potatoes
or the German potatoes are the best for the purpose ; a
ripe, mealy potato breaks into crumbs and spoils the dish.
When new or German potatoes are not obtainable, do not
boil the potatoes quite so long as for other purposes, thus
leaving them underdone ; they can then be cut in any de-
sired shape.
The simplest potato salad is made by slicing the pota-
toes rather thinly, arranging a layer in the salad dish and
covering lightly with any dressing preferred ; arrange
another layer of potatoes and dressing, and so continue
until all the potatoes are used ; then serve. Potatoes
and beets are often used together. Cut them in half-inch
dice or in thin slices, and season with salt and pepper.
Rub the yolk of a hard-boiled egg through a sieve, and
chop some parsley rather coarsely. Arrange m the salad
bowl alternate layers of potatoes, beets, egg, parsley and
dressing, until all the ingredients are used, reserving
quite a goodly portion of the dressing for the top layer,
and placing egg and parsley on top of the dressing.
Or place the potatoes, parsley and egg in the center of
the dish and a circle of beets and lettuce around the
edge ; and pour the salad dressing over the whole.
Onions, thinly sliced and sparingly used are often
arranged in alternate layers with the potato. Many pro-
fessional cooks prefer to mix a potato salad while the po-
304 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK,
tatoes are hot, as it looks more appetizing, will keep
longer and has less of the peculiar soggy taste than
when made with cold potatoes.
LETTUCE SALAD.
Choose for this the crisp part of the lettuce, lay it in
cold water for an hour, dry well, and arrange it in a
salad bowl. Pour over the center of the dish any of the
dressings given ; mayonnaise is most generally used, but
after a heavy dinner the French dressing is much to be
preferred to any other.
The following vegetables may be used the same as
lettuce :
Endive. Water-cress. Sorrel.
Pepper-grass. Nasturtium Blossoms. Dandelion.
CREAM CABBAGE SALAD.
Chop the cabbage fine. Put in a saucepan enough
cream to nearly cover the cabbage, and add to it
One egg, well beaten.
A pinch of red pepper or mustard.
One table-spoonful of vinegar.
A little salt.
Stir constantly until the milk thickens, remove from
the fire, and when cool, pour the liquid over the cabbage,
mixing it well in. Let the salad stand an hour be-
fore serving. If there is no cream at hand, use milk,
with a generous spoonful of butter to make it rich
enough.
SALADS. 305
CABBAGE SALAD.
Two table-spoonfuls of vinegar.
One egg (yolk only).
One and a-half pint of chopped cabbage.
One tea-spoonful of corn-starch.
One-half cupful of milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Chop the cabbage fine, and season with salt and pep-
per, using none in the dressing. If the cabbage is
wilted, soak it in ice-water or cold water for an hour
before chopping it. Heat the vinegar, and if very strong,
dilute it with water. Beat the yolk of the egg well ; then
stir the corn-starch into the milk, and put in the egg,
beating all well together. Add this gently to the boiling
vinegar ; the mixture will not curdle, but will become a
creamy dressing when done. When the dressing has
boiled two minutes, take it from the fire, pour it over the
cabbage while still hot, and set the salad away in a cool
place ; serve when cold. If desired, the dressing may be
cooled before being poured over the 'cabbage. This
salad is very delicious.
CHEESE SALAD.
One-half pound of old cheese, grated.
One hard-boiled egg.
One table-spoonful of vinegar.
One table-spoonful of salad oil.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of made mustard.
Rub to a powder the yolk of the egg, and when cold,
add the oil ; afteY these are well mixed, put in in the
20
306 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
order named the salt, pepper, sugar, mustard and cheese.
Work all well together before pouring in the vinegar.
Serve in a crab shell, if one is obtainable. This salad
closely resembles deviled crab and makes a good relish
at tea or luncheon. It should be eaten with crackers
and butter.
SALAD SANDWICHES.
These are very delicious for picnics or for traveling.
Mix a small quantity of mayonnaise dressing with finely
chopped lobster or chicken. Cover a small slice of bread
with lettuce, then spread a layer of salad, and cover with
lettuce and bread. Wrap the sandwich in tinfoil or oiled
paper.
VEGETABLES FOR SALADS.
1. Lettuce alone.
2. Lettuce and water-cress or pepper-grass, with small radishes for a
garnish.
3. Lettuce and chives, with olives for a garnish.
4. Lettuce and celery, the latter being cut into inch pieces.
5. Lettuce and sorrel.
6. Lettuce and anchovies, the latter being cut into thin strips
7. Endive alone.
8. Endive and water-cress.
9. Endive and celery, beets and hard-boiled eggs ; the endive being
placed in the center, then a row of eggs and next a row of beets,
with an edge of fringed celery.
10. Water-cress and beets, garnished with olives, the beets being cut
in dice.
u. Sliced cucumbers and sliced new onions.
12. Dandelions.
SALAD NOTES.
Condensed milk may be used in place of cream in
SALADS. 307
making dressings requiring cream, but the latter is, of
course, to be preferred.
A good Tartar sauce is made by beating into half a
pint of mayonnaise dressing half a table-spoonful of
chopped pickles, olives and capers. A salad made of
several kinds of vegetables is called a salade maddoine.
CHEESE DISHES.
" He hath never fed of the dainties that are bred in a book."
SHAKSPERE.
IN England, and at almost every well-appointed table
in America, cheese is a positive necessity. It may be re-
garded as our most concentrated food, since it contains
twice as much nutriment as any other known substance.
Being difficult of digestion it should be eaten only in
small quantities. Cooked or melted cheese is much
more wholesome than when in a raw state, but the cook-
ing of cheese is singularly neglected in this country
in fact, it is practically an unknown art.
Among the best English cheeses are the Stilton
and Cheshire, and the best French varieties are the
Neufchatel, Brie and Roquefort, the last named be-
ing one of the most popular kinds of cheese known.
The Gruyere, a Swiss cheese, is also well liked ; it
is made of new milk and flavored with a powdered
herb. French mustard, pepper and salt are passed
at table when this cheese is served. The Roquefort
cheese is made of goats' and sheep's milk. Parmesan
cheese, an Italian variety, is made of skimmed milk and
is high flavored and very harct ; it is never sent to market
until it is six months old and is often kept three or four
308
CHEESE DISHES. 309
years. It is used extensively in grated form for cooking,
and can be purchased already grated.
American cheeses are exported in large quantities to
England, where they are held in high favor. One of the
best of these makes is the " English Dairy," made in
Otsego County, New York. It is of a dark-yellow color,
and is very rich and highly flavored. A milder, but
equally well-flavored cheese, is made at Milan, Cayuga
Co., N. Y. The Stilton cheese, made in the latter county,
can scarcely be distinguished from the English article of
the same name. In serving this cheese, the top should
be cut off to form a cover, and the cheese should be
neatly encircled with a napkin. When removed from the
table, the cover should be replaced.
Cheese is cut into little squares and passed in a glass
cheese-dish. When forming a separate course at dinner,
it should come just before the dessert. It is an English
fashion to serve celery or cucumbers with cheese. Thin
milk crackers or wafer biscuit, placed in the oven a
moment to make them crisp, should be served with the
cheese, and butter for spreading the crackers should also
be passed, this being the only time it is customarily
allowed for dinner.
Macaroni with cheese, Welsh rarebit and cheese ome-
let are .good for a cheese course. The Welsh rarebit
makes an especially pretty course. It is served on little
silver chafing dishes about four inches square, one of
which, standing in a plate, is served to each person at
table. The reservoir contains boiling water, and the little
platter holds the slice of Welsh rarebit, which is thus kept
hot.
3 1 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
WELSH RAREBIT.
This is a favorite dish for gentlemen's suppers and for
luncheons. Cut bread into thin slices, shape these into
diamonds or squares, toast them, and while hot, butter
lightly. With a tea-spoon dip boiling water upon the toast
to moisten slightly, wetting only the unbuttered side.
Place each slice on a separate hot plate, allowing one for
each person at table ; sprinkle with a little salt, pour over
the toast enough melted cheese to cover, and serve the mo-
ment this is done, since otherwise the cheese will harden,
the toast will cool, and the dish will be altogether spoiled.
Rich, new cheese should be chosen for this purpose, as
it melts more easily. The cheese should be put in a cup
to be melted. If the rarebit is stringy and tough, the
cheese has not been sufficiently rich.
This simple recipe is a decidedly good one, but there
are many different ways of making the dish. Some spread
a little mustard over the toast, others add ale to the
cheese, or dip the toast in ale instead of using hot water.
Another method is to serve a poached egg on each slice of
toast and cheese, and another to mix the yolks of eggs
with the melted cheese.
WELSH RAREBIT, WITH EGGS.
One cupful of grated cheese.
One egg (yolk only).
One-quarter of a cupful of milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Prepare the toast the same as in the preceding recipe.
Place the milk in a porcelain-lined stew-pan, and when
hot, put in the cheese, and stir continually until the latter
CHEESE DISHES. 3 1 1
is melted. Add the salt, pepper and the beaten yolk, stir
but a moment, and pour the liquid over the toast.
WELSH RAREBIT, WITH ALE.
This is the way a rarebit is generally prepared in Eng-
land.
One pound of cheese.
One-half table-spoonful of butter.
One wine-glassful of ale.
Put the butter and ale in a porcelain-lined stew-pan,
and when hot, stir in the cheese cut into dice. Stir and
cook until all are blended to a smooth paste. Prepare
the toast as above, pour this mixture over it, and serve
very hot. Single Gloucester cheese can always be relied
upon in preparing rarebits in this way.
CHEESE SOUFFLE^
Two and a-half table-spoonfuls of flour.
Three eggs.
One and a-half pint (scant) of milk.
One-quarter pound of grated Parmesan cheese.
Beat the yolks of the eggs well, thin them with a little
of the milk, and add the grated cheese. Rub the flour
to a paste with a little more of the milk. Heat in a
porcelain-lined stew-pan the remainder of the milk, and
when it boils, stir in the flour paste. Stir until the whole
is smooth and creamy, and add the other mixture of
cheese and yolks. Boil the liquid about a minute, or until
the cheese is fully melted, and remove from the fire.
Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them
into the mixture. Fill some paper cases with this prepara-
tion, bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven, and serve at
3 T 2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
once. Cases for baking the souffle' may be purchased
from a confectioner, or they may be made with very little
trouble. Silver scollop shells are also used for the pur-
pose, and are, of course, more elegant.
RAMEKINS.
Two table-spoonfuls of grated cheese.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs.
Four table-spoonfuls of milk.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of mustard.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper.
One egg.
Boil the crumbs in the milk until soft, and add the but-
ter, mustard, salt, pepper and cheese and the yolk of the
egg. When all are well mixed, stir in the white of the
egg, beaten to ' a stiff froth. Put the mixture in paper
cases, filling each case but three-quarters full, and bake
five or six minutes. The ramekins should be puffed high
above the edge of the paper, and should be served
immediately, else they will fall. They will make a pretty
cheese course for dinner.
CHEESE au gratin.
Four eggs.
One cupful of grated cheese.
One-half cupful of milk.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper
Six tea-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Butter a suitable number of individual dishes. Beat
CHEESE DISHES. 313
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to them
the yolks and seasoning. Mix well, and add the cheese
and then the milk. Pour this mixture into the little
dishes, sprinkle each lightly with the crumb, and bake
for eight minutes in a moderate oven.
CHEESE PUFFS*
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Four table-spoonfuls of flour.
Four table-spoonfuls of grated cheese.
Two eggs.
One cupful of water.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-fifth tea- spoonful of pepper.
Wet the flour in a little of the water until it forms a
smooth paste, and add the cheese, salt and pepper.
Place the rest of the water and the butter in a saucepan,
and when boiling, add the flour mixture. Cook three
minutes, stirring all the time ; remove the mixture from
the fire, and set it away to cool. When cold, add the
eggs unbeaten, one at a time, and beat the batter at
least ten minutes. Butter a baking-pan lightly, and drop
the mixture into it, using a heaping tea-spoonful for each
puff, and leaving considerable space between them, as
they increase threefold in size. Bake twenty minutes,
and serve hot. Sometimes a plain cream sauce or a
brown sauce is served with these puffs.
CHEESE STRAWS.
Three table-spoonfuls of flour.
Three table-spoonfuls of Parmesan cheese.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of milk.
3 1 4 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
One-half salt-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter salt-spoonful of pepper.
One-eighth salt-spoonful of nutmeg.
One egg (yolk only).
Mix the dry ingredients, add the milk, the yolk and the
butter, softened. Mix all well with a spoon, and when
smooth, divide the dough into two parts. Roll these
very thin, cut them into narrow strips three inches long,
and bake in a slow oven fifteen minutes. These straws
may be served hot or cold, either as a cheese course or
with lettuce in the salad course. They may be arranged
in bunches of six or eight, each bundle being tied with
narrow ribbon ; or they may be piled on a plate in log-
cabin style.
COTTAGE CHEESE, NO. I.
For making this cheese the milk should not be too
sour ; as soon as it gets thick it is ready to use. Place
the pan of milk over a kettle of hot water and heat almost
to the boiling point. When it has been in the heat six or
eight minutes, take a large spoon and turn the milk over
by spoonfuls, bringing the hot part on top. When the
whey has become so hot that it cannot be touched by the
finger, turn all into a colander to drain. When free of
whey, -add salt generously, and butter and pepper as
desired. Press the mixture into a dish, or shape it into
small balls. This cheese is much improved by the addi-
tion of a few spoonfuls of cream at the time of seasoning.
COTTAGE CHEESE, NO. 2.
Four quarts of thick sour milk.
Four tea-spoonfuls of butter.
Four salt-spoonfuls of salt.
Four table-spoonfuls of cream.
CHEESE DISHES. 3 I 5
Place the milk in a pan on the back of the range, and
scald it until the curds and whey are separated. Spread
a strainer cloth over a bowl, and pour in the milk ; lift
the edges of the cloth, draw them together, drain and
wring quite dry. Put the curds in a small bowl, add the
seasoning, and shape into balls. If too soft to handle,
place the cheese in a cool place for an hour, when it
may be conveniently shaped. If scalded too long, the
curds become hard and brittle.
TOASTED CHEESE.
Cut the cheese in slices a-quarter of an inch thick,
place these in an oyster broiler, and broil them over very
hot coals, turning frequently, until each side is lightly
browned. Serve with bread, and eat with mustard and
salt. This makes a very nice luncheon dish.
EGGS.
" The vulgar boil the learned roast, an egg."
POPE.
IT is poor economy to limit the family in respect to
eggs. They are most nutritious, and even at a high
price, are cheaper than meat. They should be used
freely by all, except those who know they cannot digest
them. But by this we do not mean their extravagant
use in rich cake, nor their being eaten when indigestibly
prepared, as, for instance, when hard-boiled or fried ;
but we mean rather that they should be freely partaken
of when simply cooked. Throughout the spring and
summer eggs should form a large part of the fare at
breakfast and luncheon, but if not served in a variety of
ways, they will soon become very tiresome. The most
healthful methods of preparing eggs are those by which
they are not subjected to a temperature higher than that
at which water boils. Eggs should never be boiled.
When boiled for three minutes, they are called " soft-
boiled," but in reality they are not soft-boiled at all, since
one part is hard-boiled, while the other part is scarcely
cooked at all. An egg that is properly cooked is not
boiled. The white when eaten should yield to pressure
like thick cream if taken between the fingers.
To ascertain the freshness of an egg without breaking
3*6
EGGS. 317
it, hold it before a strong light or toward the sun; if
the yolk appears round and the white surrounding it
clear, the chances are the egg is good. Another test for
eggs is to lay them in a pan of cold water ; the fresh ones
will sink immediately, while those that float are doubtful.
The shell of a fresh egg looks dull and porous."
TO PRESERVE EGGS
It is only necessary to close the pores of the shell.
This may be done by varnishing or dipping them in
melted suet, and then packing them in bran or salt, with
the small end downward. Another method that is very
successful is as follows : Pack the eggs in a stone jar, with
the small ends downward ; make a lime-water by pouring
four quarts of boiling water over a pound of lime, and
when this is cold and has settled, pour the water care-
fully upon the eggs in the jar. Lay a saucer on top of
the eggs to keep them under the water, and set the jar in
a cool, dark place.
BOILED EGGG.
Many people do not care for eggs which are boiled so
that the whites are soft, although they know that they are
far more nutritious when thus prepared. For those who
prefer boiled eggs, the following directions are given :
Place the eggs in a sauce-pan of boiling water, using a
table-spoon or a frying-basket for the purpose. Boil them
steadily for three minutes if desired "soft-boiled," and
ten minutes if desired " hard-boiled." ,
There are two methods of cooking them in the more
nutritious manner : First., place the eggs in a saucepan
of cold water, and when the water boils the eggs are
3 1 8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
done ; this will take about ten minutes. Second, put six
eggs in a vessel that will hold two quarts, fill the vessel
with boiling water, cover it closely, and stand it in a
warm place for ten minutes ; in this way the eggs will be
cooked equally well in every part. If the eggs are de-
sired more thoroughly done, let them stand in the hot
water ten or even twenty minutes longer, but do not
place them on the range. Serve boiled eggs in a folded
napkin.
In preparing eggs for garnishing or for salads they will
require to be boiled at least fifteen minutes.
If the shell of an egg is cracked, pierce several small
holes in the large end, and the contents of the egg will
not burst out in boiling.
POACHED EGGS.
Break the eggs, one at a time into a saucer. Place water
in a saucepan, salt it well, and when it is simmering, drop
each egg lightly in, cooking but one egg at a time if the
saucepan is small. More may be cooked at once by using
a large frying-pan. The water should not be allowed to
boil while the eggs are cooking, but should be kept just
at the boiling point. With a small spoon throw the water
carefully on the top of the egg to whiten it. The beauty of
a poached egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through
the white, which should be just sufficiently hardened to
form a veil for the yolk. When cooked enough, take out
the egg with a perforated ladle, trim off the ragged edges,
and slip it on a small, thin piece of buttered toast. When
all the eggs are cooked and placed on their separate
pieces of toast, place on each a bit of butter and sprinkle
with salt and pepper.
EGGS. 319
Some cooks 'set muffin-rings in the water to give
the eggs an even shape, poaching them, inside the
rings. An egg-poacher is very convenient for this work.
Poached eggs are often placed in beef soup, one egg
being prepared for each person at table. They are also
served on thin slices of boiled ham, and also in a Welsh
rarebit. Delmonico, when serving poached eggs on
toast, sprinkles sorrel over the top of the egg.
SCRAMBLED EGGS.
This dish is particularly nice for breakfast. For six
persons, allow
Five eggs.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One-half cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of salt
One-eighth tea-spoonful of pepper.
Beat the eggs well, and add to them the milk, salt and
pepper. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot,
turn in the eggs, and stir continually until a thick, creamy
mass is formed ; this will not require more than a minute
and a-half. Remove from the fire, and serve at once.
A little chopped parsley is sometimes stirred into the
eggs just before they are taken from the fire.
SPANISH EGGS.
These are prepared the same as directed in the pre-
ceding recipe, but before cooking the mixture add to the
butter in the pan one large tomato, peeled and cut into
bits. Cook the tomato in the butter until soft, about five
minutes being necessary ; then turn in the egg mixture,
and finish as above.
320 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
EGGS IN TOMATO.
Six eggs.
One pint of tomato.
One small onion.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Cut the onion into small pieces, place these with the
lomato in a frying-pan, stew very slowly for ten minutes,
and add the salt and pepper. Set the pan back, break
the eggs and slip them on top of the tomato, taking care
not to break the yolks. Return the pan to the heat, and
cook slowly until the whites of the eggs are thoroughly
set ; then prick the yolks and let them mingle with the
tomato and whites. The mixture should be quite soft,
but the red tomatoes and the white and yellow of the
eggs should be quite distinct. Serve at once on buttered
toast.
EGG VERMICELLI.
This makes a most attractive-looking dish for luncheon.
Five eggs.
One table-spoonful of corn-starch.
One-half table-spoonful of butter.
Six squares of toast.
One-half pint of milk.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Place the eggs in boiling water and boil twenty
minutes. Throw them into cold water, and when cold,
remove the shells, chop the whites very fine and rub the
yolks through a sieve, or else run them through a potato-
strainer, which will do the work very quickly. Do not
mix the whites and yolks. Put the milk in a double
EGGS. 321
boiler to boil, rub the butter and corn-starch together,
and add them to the boiling milk. Stir until creamy, and
add the whites, salt, pepper and butter. Wet the edges
of the toast, butter it lightly and place on a warm
dish. Cover the slices with the white sauce, apportioning
it evenly to each of the six slices ; sprinkle the strained
yolks in little heaps upon the tops, and serve at once,
after sifting on a little salt and pepper.
DEVILED EGGS.
Twelve eggs.
Two heaping table-spoonfuls of cold boiled ham.
One table-spoonful of olive oil.
One tea-spoonful of mustard.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, and lay them in cold
water for half an hour. Remove the shells and cut the
eggs in halves lengthwise. Rub the yolks to a smooth
paste with the oil and mustard, and add the ham, finely
chopped, and the salt and pepper ; mix thoroughly, and
fill the hollowed whites with the mixture. Serve in a bed
of water-cress or salad.
For picnics, put the corresponding halves of each egg
together and press them closely ; then cut white tissue
paper into pieces six inches square, fringe the opposite
ends, roll one egg into each paper, and twist the fringed
ends the same as the coverings of bonbons are often
arranged. Serve on a napkin in a pretty basket, gar-
nished with smilax or myrtle.
BAKED EGGS, NO. I.
Break six or eight eggs into a well buttered earthen
21
322 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOA'.
pie-plate, taking care that each egg is whole and does
not encroach upon the others to mix or disturb the yolks.
Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and place a bit of -butter
upon each egg. Bake in a hot oven until the whites are
well set, usually about eight minutes. Serve hot with
rounds of buttered toast, sending the eggs to table in the
plate in which they were baked.
BAKED EGGS, NO. 2.
Eight eggs.
One cupful of milk.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of flour.
One tea-spoonful of chopped parsley.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Place the butter in a small frying-pan, and when
melted, add the flour ; stir until smooth and frothy, draw
the pan back, and gradually add the cold milk. When
the mixture boils, add the seasoning, cook a minute,
stirring all the time, and turn the sauce into a deep plate
used for baking eggs, or into a deep earthen pie-plate.
Break the eggs carefully and drop them into the sauce,
taking care not to break the yolks. Sprinkle the parsley
over the eggs and sauce, place the dish in a moderate
oven, and bake until the whites are set, usually six or
eight minutes. Serve in the same dish. If parsley is
not liked, it may be omitted ; and if cheese is liked, a
table-spoonful of grated Parmesan may be sprinkled over
the eggs.
EGGS. 323
CREAMED EGGS. (FOR LENT.)
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls (scant) of flour.
One pint of milk.
Four eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half of a small onion.
Six slices of toast.
Boil the eggs twenty minutes, and lay them in cold
water; when cold, remove the shells, and cut each egg
into six pieces. Cut the onion fine. Place the butter in
a small frying-pan, and when it is hot, slowly cook the
onion in it until of a light yellow hue, taking care, how-
ever, not to brown either the butter or the onion, at all.
Remove the onion, add the flour and stir until the paste
is smooth and frothy, but do not let it brown in the least.
Draw the pan back, gradually add the milk, return to the
heat, and when the sauce boils, put in the salt, pepper
and eggs. As soon as the eggs are well heated, turn all
out upon buttered toast, and serve at once. A few drops
of onion juice may be used instead of the onion, thus
facilitating the work somewhat.
FRIED EGGS.
The most delicate way of frying eggs is to cook them
on a pan-cake griddle. Heat the griddle almost as much
as for pancakes, butter it lightly, and slip the eggs upon
it, breaking the eggs one by one into a saucer to make
sure that all are fresh. When slightly browned, turn
them carefully with a pan-cake turner ; they should be
done in two minutes.
324 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
EGG NESTS.
For six persons, use
Six eggs.
Six slices of toast.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One and a-half table-spoonful of butter.
Separate the whites of the eggs from the yolks, and
place the whites on a platter or large plate, leaving the
yolks in the half shells until needed. Put the salt with
the whites, and beat the latter to a stiff froth. Toast the
bread, dip the edges in hot water, spread generously with
butter, and place them in a dripping-pan. Heap the
whites of the eggs on the toast, make a depression in the
center of each mound, and put a quarter of a tea-spoonful
of butter and one of the whole yolks in each hollow.
Place the pan in a moderate oven, and cook until the
mounds are lightly browned. A spoonful of chopped
ham may be spread on each slice of toast before the
beaten' white is placed upon it.
PICKLED EGGS.
These make a nice accompaniment for broiled steak.
Six eggs.
One pint of vinegar.
Twenty-four whole cloves.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half tea-spoonful of ground mustard.
Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, throw them into cold
water, and when cool, remove the shells and stick four
cloves into each egg. Put the vinegar on to boil, rub
EGGS. 325
the mustard, salt and pepper to a paste with a table-
spoonful of the cold vinegar, and when the vinegar is
boiling, add the paste to it and stir until the whole is well
mixed. Put the eggs in a glass fruit-jar, pour the boiling
vinegar over them, cover well and use after two weeks.
STUFFED EGGS, NO. I.
For six persons, use
Six eggs.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One pint of milk.
Three drops of onion juice.
Salt and pepper.
Boil the eggs twenty minutes, drop them into cold
water, and when cool, remove the shells. Cut an even
slice from each end of each egg, and cut the eggs in two.
Take out the yolks, mash them until light and smooth,
and add to them the onion juice and
One quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Four table-spoonfuls of milk.
Mix all well together, and heap the mixture in the
shape of domes in the halves of the whites, setting the
whites on end. Place the eggs on a well buttered tin
plate or pan, and bake in the oven for six minutes. While
they are baking, prepare the sauce as follows : Put the
remaining table-spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and
when it is hot, add the flour, and stir until smooth and
frothy, but not brown ; then gradually add the milk.
326 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOA'.
Season with salt and pepper, boil up once, arrange the
baked eggs on a warm dish, pour the sauce around them,
garnish with parsley, and serve at once.
STUFFED EGGS, NO. 2.
These are delicious, but rather difficult to make. For
six persons, allow
Six eggs.
One table-spoonful of tongue or ham.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, cool them in water,
remove the shells, and cut the eggs in halves lengthwise ;
take out the yolks carefully, mash them fine, add the
butter and finely chopped meat and also the salt and
pepper, and rub all together until a perfectly smooth
paste is obtained. Fill the whites with the mixture, and
press the corresponding halves together. Dip the egg
first in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs, again in the
egg and crumbs, and fry in boiling fat for two minutes,
using a frying-basket. When all the eggs are cooked,
pour around them a sauce made of
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One pint of milk.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt. .
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
Rub the flour and butter to a cream ; heat the milk,
and gradually add it to the butter and flour. When
smooth, return all to the pan in which the milk was
heated, and boil two minutes, stirring all the time ; then
add the salt and pepper, when the sauce is ready to use.
OMELETS. 327
OMELETS.
Nothing is more simply made than an omelet, yet
comparatively few cooks can make one properly. The
eggs either stick to the pan or are overdone and tough.
Much stress is laid in many cook-books upon the neces-
sity of an omelet-pan, but any smooth iron frying-pan
that is not too small for the number of eggs used will do
equally well. There is also much said about the pro-
fessional manner of tossing the omelet, shaking the pan,
etc., that bewilders the unexperienced and renders the
modus operandi apparently very difficult. We give here
a recipe for omelet that has never been known to fail,
and is simple enough for any one to follow. For those
who care for a more elaborate mode of work there are
many books that will explain the difficulties to them, but
this recipe is given for those not yet skilled in work of
this kind.
For a family of five, allow five eggs. Beat the whites
to a stiff froth on a large plate ; place the yolks in a
good-sized earthenware cake bowl, and beat them well,
adding a spoonful of the beaten whites to make them
more frothy. Turn the whites into the bowl containing
the yolks, adding half a tea-spoonful of salt and a very
little pepper, and mix all well together. Place a table-
spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, or an omelet-pan if
there is one, and when quite hot, so that the butter is
commencing to brown, turn in the eggs. Do not keep
them in this heat more than a minute ; then set the
pan on the top grate in a hot oven to finish the cooking.
If the oven is at the right heat, the omelet should be
done in five minutes. Take the pan out, slip a knife
under the omelet to loosen it on all sides, fold
328 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
one side upon the other, and send at once to the
table.
This may be termed a baked omelet by professional
cooks, but it is one that is certainly worthy of note, for
lighter and better omelets cannot be found anywhere than
in those households in which these directions have been
the rule for years in the preparation of this simple and
delightful article of food.
OMELET SOUFFLE.
Six eggs.
Three table-spoonfuls of pulverized sugar.
One-half tea-spoonful of orange water, vanilla or lemon.
Beat the whites of the eggs to a hard froth. Put the
yolks of three eggs in a bowl with the sugar and flavor-
ing, and beat them well. Add the whites, mix quickly,
and pile the mass as high as possible on a well buttered
baking-dish. Smooth the top of the mound, make a slit
down the center and at the sides, and bake fifteen min-
utes in a moderate oven. At the end of this time the
souffle* should be of a fine yellow shade. Sprinkle with
powdered sugar and serve at once.
FRIED OMELET.
This is a convenient way to make an omelet where the
family come irregularly to breakfast. The mixture may
stand for some time if beaten again thoroughly before
frying.
Six eggs.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of pepper.
One cupful of milk.
OMELETS. 329
Beat the eggs until light and foamy, and add the other
ingredients. Fry a spoonful at a time in a hot frying-
pan or on a pancake griddle, having the pan or griddle
well buttered. When done, roll each omelet quickly like
a French pancake, and serve.
OTHER OMELETS.
A great many dishes -can be made from the simple,
plain omelet, not only for breakfast uses but also for
desserts at dinner. Most of the additions are made to
the omelet just before it is folded and while the top is
moist and readily receives the different ingredients
OYSTER OMELET.
Heat eighteen oysters in their own liquor, skim them
carefully, and stir in- with them a table-spoonful of butter
rubbed to a cream with a table-spoonful of flour. Season
with salt and pepper, boil up once, and spread the oysters
on the omelet before folding.
TOMATO OMELET.
Boil two medium-sized tomatoes a few minutes, season
with salt and pepper, and place them on the omelet just
before it is folded. When served the tomato should be
entirely enveloped.
GREEN PEA OMELET.
This is managed the same as tomato omelet, a few
spoonfuls of cooked green peas being placed in the
center. Serve the omelet with a row of peas around it.
OMELET WITH VEGETABLES.
Many vegetables beside the two above mentioned are
33O THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
used in making omelets. Asparagus and cauliflower are
often used. The vegetable should first be cooked until
perfectly well done and laid rather dry in the omelet be-
fore folding. . Arrange a border of the vegetable used
around the omelet for serving.
HAM OMELET.
Scatter over the center of the omelet a few spoonfuls
of finely chopped ham.
Cheese, parsley and chicken are used in the same way.
SWEET OMELET (FOR DESSERT).
Add a little sugar to the eggs, using no pepper and but
half the quantity of salt. Make the plain omelet, and
when ready to fold, put two or three table-spoonfuls of
any kind of preserves, marmalade or jelly upon the top.
After the omelet is laid on the serving-dish, sprinkle sugar
over it.
ORANGE OMELET.
One orange (rind).
Three eggs.
Three table-spoonfuls of orange juice.
Three tea-spoonfuls of powdered sugar.
Grate the rind from the orange. Beat the yolks of the
eggs thoroughly, and add the sugar, rind and juice.
.Beat the whites stiff, stir them into the yolks, and when
both are well mixed, cook like a plain omelet. Fold the
omelet, lay it on the serving-dish, sprinkle it thickly with
powdered sugar and score it in diagonal lines with a clean
red-hot poker. The burnt sugar gives the omelet a deli-
cious flavor.
To vary the recipe cut the orange into sections, remove
the seeds and tough inner skin cut each section into
OMELETS. 331
pieces, and mix these with the yolks before cooking; or
cut the orange into small pieces, spread part of it over
the omelet before folding, and sprinkle the remainder
over the sugared top. By any of these methods a con-
venient dessert for an emergency may be prepared in ten
minutes.
OMELET WITH RUM.
This is a most delicious omelet. Add a little sugar to
the eggs instead of the pepper, and use a little less salt
than in the plain omelet. When the omelet is ready
to serve, sprinkle a table-spoonful of sugar over the top,
and pour over it four or five table-spoonfuls of rum. Set
fire to the rum and send blazing to table.
BREAD.
" The very staff of life !
The comfort of the husband, the pride of the wife."
THE making of bread is at once the easiest and the
most difficult branch of culinary science. It should be
regarded as one of the highest accomplishments, and if a
tenth of the interest, time and thought which are devoted
to cake, pastry and fancy cooking were spent upon this
most important article of food, the presence of good
bread upon our tables would be invariably secured. It is
deplorable indeed that in thousands of otherwise com-
fortable homes good bread is an unknown thing. Good
bread makes the plainest meal acceptable and the
coarsest fare appetizing, while the most luxurious table
is sadly wanting without it. Opinions as to what con-
stitutes good bread differ as much as tastes and opin-
ions regarding anything else ; but all will agree that good
bread is light, sweet, free from any perceptible taste of
the yeast and as white as the grade of flour will admit.
Most important among the things needful to produce
good bread is good
FLOUR.
Housekeepers seldom select flour by examination.
They usually take some tried brand, or select on the
332
BREAD. 333
recommendation of their grocer ; therefore, a little ex-
planation regarding the different brands may be help-
ful.
The fancy names given to flour amount to very little,
as the same flour is sold by several dealers under various
brands. The different " processes " refer to the several
methods used in converting wheat into flour, the grinding
being performed in several ways, each one claiming supe-
riority.
One process is by grinding between two horizontal
stones, the upper one revolving and grinding the grain
against the lower one, which is stationary. The ground
grain is then sifted through bolting-cloth, producing fine
wheat flour, coarse wheat meal and bran. This is the
St. Louis or " old process " flour and is also sold as
pastry flour. The grinding with millstones heats the
flour, and as it is often placed on the market without
having been properly cooled and dried, it spoils very
rapidly.
Another method is the Minnesota or " patent process."
The Washburn, Pillsbury and other mills located in
Minneapolis are the largest flouring mills in the world.
By this process the grain is crushed, not ground, by
being passed through corrugated rollers, and is then
sifted through bolting-cloth. Flour prepared in this way
is considered one of the best grades.
The third process is the " new patent " or Haxall.
By this method the outer husk of the wheat is removed,
after which the cleaned grain is cut by a system of
knives, which reduces it to a fine powder without the
injurious effect of heating. This flour swells more than
that made by the "old process," as it contains more of
334 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
the gluten of the wheat, so that the same measure will
*make a greater quantity of bread than the St. Louis
flour. It is, therefore, cheaper in the end, although it
costs more per barrel ; and it makes the whitest bread.
There have been many variations of the Haxall process,
but all are included under the term " new process
flour."
Yet another method of converting wheat into flour has
been recently introduced in New York and is highly
recommended by physicians and scientists. The outer
husk of the wheat (of which only the choicest kinds are
used) is removed, and the grains are pulverized by a
compressed cold-air blast, which dashes them into atoms
with tremendous force. This is called " whole wheat "
flour, the name indicating that the whole of the nutritive
part of the wheat is retained. It is not sifted like other
flour, but is pulverized into all the varieties of crushed
wheat and coarse and fine granulated ; and each variety,
even the finest flour, contains all that is valuable as food.
Bread made with this flour has been found very sweet,
light and spongy, with none of the objectionable features
of Graham bread. The " Arlington," the " Franklin "
and some other brands of whole-wheat flour are highly
recommended by those familiar with them.
Good flour should not be pure white in color, but of a
creamy, yellowish shade. If flour feels damp, clammy
and sticky and gradually forms into lumps that are hard
to sift out, it is not of the best quality. Flour of high
grade holds together in a mass when squeezed in the
hand and retains the impression of the fingers and even
of the indentations of the skin much longer than poor
flour. Haxall flour has a fine consistency and runs
BREAD. 335
easily through the sieve or fingers like velvety meal,
while good St. Louis flour feels oily and soft. All house-
keepers agree that flour is not improved by long standing
and that it should be bought in quantities corresponding
to the number of persons in the household, that it may
be used within a reasonable length of time. For a small
family it is wisest to buy it in twenty-five pound sacks, or
at most by the quarter-barrel. Flour should be kept in a
dry, cool place, should be well covered and should never
be used without sifting.
The next essential element in bread-making is the
YEAST.
There are three kinds of yeast in general use ; the dry,
the compressed, and the liquid, each of which has its
merits. Dry yeast cakes, such as the " Twin, Brothers',''
" National " and many others, are good, if fresh, and
being always obtainable and inexpensive, they are
generally liked by those who use them. The compressed
cakes, such as the "Vienna," are excellent when
perfectly fresh, and are especially to be commended
when bread is made in large quantities ; but for a small
family, when only a quarter of a cake is used, perhaps
twice a week, or for those living at a distance from the
grocer's, they are inconvenient, expensive and wasteful.
Yeast cakes have almost entirely taken the place of
bakers' yeast. One two-cent cake of compressed yeast
dissolved in a cupful of water is equal to a cupful of
home-made yeast.
There are many varieties of home-made yeast, all of
which require some form of yeast for starting. Who
made the first yeast, and how can a young housekeeper
336 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
start her own when at a distance from stores or neigh-
bors so that she can neither buy nor borrow, are ques-
tions often asked. The answer to the latter question is,
simply make a thin batter of flour and water, and let it
stand in a warm place until it ferments and is full of bub-
bles. A pint of this "ferment" is equal to a cupful of
old yeast in starting the new. Yeast made with potatoes
is always satisfactory, as the potato starch is particularly
well adapted to yeast fermentation. Potato yeast rises
rapidly, and it keeps longer without souring than any
other variety; and bread made with it is sweet and light,
and does not dry quickly. Porcelain or granite kettles
are best for boiling the hops and potatoes, and earthen
bowls and wooden spoons for mixing them, since iron
and tin darken the yeast. The yeast for starting should
be light in color, foaming or full of beads, effervescing
easily when shaken and emitting an odor like weak am-
monia; it is poor when it has an acid odor and looks
watery or has a thin film over the top. This yeast should
be put away in glass jars as soon as made and kept in a
cool place, for intense heat or freezing will " kill " it.
It is a good plan to reserve a portion of the yeast for the
next rising in a small jar by itself, as opening the jar
often causes the yeast to lose its strength.
The next subject to consider in the making of bread is
THE SPONGE.
This is made with lukewarm water or milk, yeast and
flour. The milk used should be scalded and cooled, the
scalding keeping the sponge from souring. The sponge
is made either in the evening or in the afternoon, that
" set " late being light by morning for the kneading of the
BREAD. 337
dough, while that started in the afternoon becomes light
and spongy by nine o'clock and can then be kneaded and
left to rise over night. The question whether dough
should be kneaded at night or in the morning is one
which every housekeeper can best decide for herself.
Setting the sponge in the afternoon has many advan-
tages. The kneading should not be hurried or slighted
and should continue at least twenty minutes; when it has
to be done in the morning, however, when most house-
holds are unusually busy, there is less likelihood of its
being properly performed. Another decided advantage
of setting the sponge in the afternoon is that it may be
baked and removed from the oven by ten o'clock the
next day, thus leaving the oven free for roasting or other
work attendant upon the noonday dinner, which so many
housewives the country over find most convenient.
The sponge should be stirred so thick with flour that a
spoonful of it will not run from the spoon but will drop
from it in a rather wet mess. If the sponge will not rise
and seems watery on the top, sufficient flour has not been
stirred into it. The sponge should not be allowed to
stand in a draught of air, but a warm, even temperature
should, if possible, be maintained. Stir the sponge in a
clean bright pail that is used for no other purpose, or in
an earthenware pitcher. If there is a high shelf in the
kitchen remote from the door, set the pail upon it. One
practical housewife used to hang her sponge pail on a
projecting hook of the kind generally used to hang bird
cages upon. The hook was nailed to a boarding above
the water tank, upon which the water pipes that supplied
the upper floor were fastened, and it was out of the
draught and in a steady temperature. The sponge was
338 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
not looked at after being set, until it was taken down for
use ; and it was always satisfactory.
The next step is
THE KNEADING.
Kneading is the pressing or working of the dough in
such a manner that 'the water and flour may be thor-
oughly mixed and the yeast, so evenly distributed that the
fermentation is equal throughout the entire mass. The
kneading is often done in a mixing-bowl or bread-pan by
drawing the dough ^over from the sides and pressing it
down in the center, but it may be more effectually and
more easily accomplished on a bread-board. Place some
of the flour in the bread-pan, work into it whatever butter is
to be used, and turn in the sponge, rinsing out the pail or
vessel containing it so that there may be no waste. Mix
thoroughly, being careful not to make the dough too
stiff; then flour the board, turn the dough out upon it,
and rub the pan clean with some of the dry flour, adding
what may be thus obtained to the dough on the board.
Work the whole into a ball, having the hands well floured.
Draw the dough farthest from you up and over taward
the center, letting the ball of the hand meet the
dough ; then press down firmly, giving the dough some-
what of a rolling motion, that it may not stick to the
board. Dust the board and the hands frequently but
lightly with flour. Use both hands in the same manner.
When enough smooth texture has been formed through
the dough it can be worked for some time without a dust-
ing of flour. The kneading should be continued for not
less than twenty minutes, as brisk and long working of
the dough makes the pores fine and regular, while gaping
BREAD. 339
holes in bread are the result of too little kneading.
When the kneading is done, work the dough into a flat,
round mass, and place it in the center of the bread-pan ;
^cover the pan with a cloth and set it in a warm place,
taking care it is not in a draught of air and that the tem-
perature is even. There is much force in the lament,
" My bread took cold last night," for cold arrests fermen-
tation. If kneaded at night, the bread will be ready for
finishing early in the morning as early as six o'clock; if
kneaded in the day, it should be allowed five or six hours
to dse to the desired lightness, after which it is ready for
THE MOULDING.
When the bread has risen to three times its original
size, knead it down in the pan, cut it into equal parts,
place one of these at a time upon the board, and mould it
into a perfectly smooth, oblong loaf. During this sec-
ond working only a dusting of flour will be required to
keep the dough from sticking to the board, if the first
kneading was sufficiently thorough. Place each loaf in a
separate pan, which should be eight inches long, four
inches wide and four inches deep. The pans must be
well greased. The loaves should reach only half way to
the top of the pans, which should stand in a warm place
until the dough reaches the top, when it is ready for
THE BAKING.
This is fully as important as the other steps in making
bread. The oven should not be too hot, and a little ex-
perience in baking will soon teach the novice when the
temperature is right. For the unskilled there are many
ways of testing the heat. The baker's method is to
34O THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
throw a little flour on the floor of the oven, and if it
browns quickly without taking fire, the heat is sufficient ;
or if the hand can be held in the oven while one can
count twenty, the heat is strong enough. If a thermome-,
ter is used, it should indicate 360. The bread should
bake from forty-five to sixty minutes. The dough should
rise in a round mound above the top of the pan and
should begin to lightly brown after fifteen minutes.
Bake according to the clock always, for the baking of
bread is something that will not take, care of itself. It is
an erroneous idea that anything must not be looked at
while baking in the oven. Look at the bread frequently,
and turn it whenever it needs it. When it is well baked,
it will emit a hollow, empty sound when tapped with the
fingers. Remove the loaves imrriediately from the pans
when done. If left in them or set on a pine table, the
bread sweats or absorbs the odor of the wood. If crisp
crust is preferred, do not cover the loaves, but place
them where the air will circulate about them. A bread
or cake cooler made of fine wire is a useful article upon
which to place newly baked bread. If a soft, tender,
wafer-like consistency is liked in the crust, wrap the
loaves while still hot in several thicknesses of cloth, and
when cold, place them in a stone jar or a tin box. Re-
move the cloth, as it absorbs moisture and gives the
bread an unpleasant odor and taste. Keep the jar well
covered ; and scald it every baking-day, airing it thor-
oughly to receive the fresh bread. -
HOP YEAST.
One pint of sliced raw potatoes.
One-half pint of hops,
BREAD. 341
One quart of water.
One tea-spoonful of ginger.
One yeast cake, or
One cupful of yeast.
One table-spoonful of salt.
One tea-cupful of sugar.
Boil the potatoes in a pint of the water, and steep the
hops for twenty minutes in the other pint, using a granite-
ware or porcelain-lined sauce-pan for the purpose. When
the potatoes are soft, mash them in the water in which
they were boiled, and when the hops are steeped, strain
the water from them into the potato water. Add the
salt, sugar and ginger, and mix all well together. When
cool, add the dissolved yeast-cake or the liquid yeast,
cover the bowl, and let it stand in a warm place until the
yeast is light and covered with foam. Skim and stir sev-
eral times. Put the yeast in glass jars or a stone jug,
sealing it securely. Keep it in a cool place, and shake it
well before using. The above measurements will not
make a large quantity.
LIGHTNING YEAST.
One quart of boiled potatoes.
One quart of hot water.
One quart of cold water.
One-half tea-cupful of sugar.
One-quarter tea-cupful of salt.
Two compressed yeast cakes, or
One pint of yeast.
Mash the potatoes fine, and pour the hot water upon
them. Add the sugar and salt, and stir well until the
mixture is smooth and creamy. Then pour in the cold
water, and when the whole is lukewarm, add the dis-
342 THE PATTER A' COOK-BOOK.
solved yeast-cakes or the yeast. Set the yeast in a warm
place, as directed in the preceding recipe, skim well, and
set it away in a stone jar. Shake before using.
RAW POTATO YEAST.
One-quarter cupful of flour.
One-quarter cupful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of salt.
Three medium-sized potatoes.
One to two quarts of boiling water.
( One cake of compressed yeast, or
I One cupful of liquid yeast.
Pare the potatoes, and cover them with cold water.
Mix the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl ; then grate
the potatoes as quickly as possible, not stopping to grate
every scrap, and mix them at once with the flour, using a
wooden or silver spoon that the mixture may not be dark-
ened. Have a good supply of boiling water in the tea-
kettle, and pour about a pint of it over the grater, rinsing
off the potato into the bowl. Mix the water thoroughly
with the potato and flour, then add slowly enough more
boiling water to make the liquid the consistency of thin
starch. The exact quantity of water cannot be given,
as it depends upon the quality of flour and potatoes.
If it does not thicken, pour the mixture into a double
boiler or a granite pan, and bring it to the boiling point,
stirring well to keep it from sticking ; then strain
through a squash strainer, and let it cool. When luke-
warm, add the yeast, cover, and keep in a warm place
until light and well covered with white foam. After the
yeast begins to rise, beat it well several times, as this
strengthens it greatly. At night or when it is well risen,
DREAD. 343
set it away in a cool place, pouring it into wide-mouthed
earthen jars or in glass jars. Reserve a cupful or more
in a jar by itself, and do not open it until ready for the
next yeast making. Shake well before using. Do not
take the jar into the hot kitchen when yeast is used for
a baking, but take the measuring cup to the jar. Scald
the jar when empty, and cover it tightly.
This is a quick and very easy way of making yeast, fif-
teen minutes being ample for the first of the work. The
yeast, which will keep two weeks and makes delicious
bread, is whiter and more inviting-looking than that made
with hops.
LIGHTNING YEAST BREAD. (NO SPONGE.)
This is one of the easiest methods of bread-making and
produces excellent bread. The work is all done the
same day, as it is not necessary to start the sponge over
night. For two loaves weighing a pound apiece, allow
a pint of the lightning yeast. Place a quart of flour in
the bread-pan, sprinkle over it a little salt, make a well in
the center of the flour, and turn in the yeast. Mix until
a ball is formed, adding more flour if needed ; then turn
the dough out upon the bread-board and knead it twenty
minutes. Return it to the pan, and when quite light and
fully three times its original size, mould it into two
loaves, filling the tins but half full of dough. When the
bread has doubled in size, bake it an hour in a moder-
ate oven. This is a small quantity, but it will be quite
enough for a family of five when bread is baked twice a
week.
BREAD FROM DRY YEAST.
The national yeast-cake may always be relied upon for
344 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
this bread. The following quantities will make three
loaves :
One good-sized raw potato.
One pint of boiling water.
One table-spoonful of melted lard.
One-half a dry yeast-cake.
One-half table-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
Flour.
Boil the potato in a granite-ware sauce pan, drain off
the water, mash the potato very smooth, and turn over it
the boiling water. Stir until the liquid is like cream, and
set it aside in a bowl. At the same time place the yeast-
cake to soak in half a cupful of lukewarm water. Do this
work at three o'clock P. M. At four, place the two ingre-
dients together in a tin-pail or earthen pitcher, and stir in
enough flour to make a very thick batter. The batter
should be too thick to run from the spoon and should
be stirred and beaten until perfectly smooth and full of
bubbles. Set this to rise in an even temperature of at
least 75, and it will be light and spongy by nine o'clock.
Put two quarts of flour in the bread-pan, rub the lard into
the flour, make a well in the center, and turn into it the
sponge from the pail. Knead until the dough forms a
round ball, adding more flour as needed. Turn it out
upon the bread-board as soon as it has been kneaded so
that it will not stick to the board, and knead at least
twenty minutes, adding only enough flour to keep the
dough from sticking during the work. Return the dough
to the pan, cover closely with a thick cloth, and leave it
in a warm place. In the morning mould the dough down,
divide it into three parts, mould each part until smooth,
BREAD. 345
place it in a separate pan and set it in a warm place.
The loaves should rise to double their size in an hour and
a-half ; then place them in the oven, and bake an
hour. Bread made in this way is out of the oven by ten
o'clock in the morning and is very delicious. Milk may
be used in place of water to set the sponge, but it
should first be scalded to prevent it souring in the
bread.
COMPRESSED YEAST BREAD.
To make four large loaves, use
One quart of boiling water.
Three large potatoes.
About seven pints of flour.
One-third of a cake of yeast.
One table-spoonful of salt.
Cook potatoes for thirty minutes, and drain well ;
mash them, pour the boiling water over them and set
away to cool. When lukewarm, add the dissolved yeast-
cake and three quarts of the flour, beating the flour in
with a spoon. Cover the bowl with a cloth and then
with a board, and let its contents rise over night. In the
morning add the salt and half the remaining flour, the
rest of the flour being used for kneading the bread on
the board. Turn the dough out upon the board, and
knead it for twenty minutes ; then return it to the bowl,
cover, and let it rise to double its original size. Shape it
into loaves, moulding them smooth ; and when they have
risen to double their original size, bake for an hour.
The addition of a table-spoonful of sugar and one of
lard or butter improves the bread for some tastes, and, if
346 THE PA TTERN COOA'-JIOOX.
used, should be worked in with the salt when the bread is
kneaded.
ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD.
Entire wheat is very different from Graham. Graham
is coarsely ground wheat meal, while entire wheat is
made from the whole wheat, the husk being discarded.
The latter makes a brown loaf or roll, but a delicious one,
smooth and fine. For two large loaves of bread, use
Two quarts of flour.
One and a-half pint of warm water.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One-half table-spoonful of salt.
( One-half cake of compressed yeast, or
I One-half cupful of home-made yeast.
Measure the flour before sifting ; then sift it into a
bowl, setting aside one cupful to be used in kneading the
bread later. Add the sugar and salt to the flour, dissolve
the yeast (if the compressed is used) in a little of the
water, and pour it and the rest of the water into the bowl ;
lastly add the butter, slightly softened. Beat the dough
vigorously with a spoon, and when smooth and light,
sprinkle the board with some of the flour reserved, turn
out the dough upon it, and knead it for twenty minutes.
Return the dough to the board, and set it to rise over
night. This will take about six or eight hours, if the
bread is started in the morning. When the dough is
light, turn it out upon the board, divide it into two loaves,
mould them smooth, place them in well greased pans,
and set them in a warm place. When the loaves have
doubled in size, bake for an hour.
BREAD. 347
RYE BREAD.
This is made the same as the preceding, except that
rye flour is used instead of the entire wheat.
GRAHAM BREAD.
The quantities given below will make two medium-sized
loaves.
One pint of water.
Wheat flour.
( One yeast-cake, or
I One cupful of yeast.
About nine at night dissolve the yeast-cake in the
water, which should be lukewarm ; and add enough wheat
flour to thicken it to a stiff batter. Stir and beat the
batter thoroughly for five minutes, leaving it full of
bubbles; and set it in a warm place to rise. In the
morning add
Two cupfuls of molasses.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
Graham flour.
Dissolve the soda in a little cold water, slightly warm
the molasses, and add to it the soda. Stir the salt into
the sponge, and beat well with a strong spoon ; then put
in the molasses and soda, and when -these have been
thoroughly beaten in with the sponge, add Graham flour
until a very thick mixture is formed. This is not kneaded
like other kinds of yeast bread, but should be so thick
with graham as to be difficult to stir. Beat the batter
well for three or four minutes, turn it into two well
348 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
greased tins, and set it in a warm place ; when it has
risen to be half again its original size, bake an hour in a
rather slow oven. This bread will not rise so rapidly as
that made of wheat flour, as it has more " body " to carry.
It is mixed so soft that the dough takes the form of the
pans in which it is baked. The success of graham bread
depends largely upon thorough beating.
RYE-AND-INDIAN BREAD.
Three cupfuls of rye flour.
Two cupfuls of Indian meal.
One cupful of molasses.
One pint of water.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Sift the two kinds of meal well together, adding the
salt. Slightly warm the water, dissolve the soda in it,
add the molasses, and when these are well mixed, stir in
the meal, a little at a time. Beat well until the whole is
thoroughly mixed. Then place the batter in a round tin,
set this in a steamer, and steam for four hours over a
kettle of boiling water. If a crust is preferred, bake the
bread half an hour after the steaming. The batter must
be steamed immediately after it is mixed or it will be
heavy.
RAISED BROWN BREAD.
One pint of corn meal.
One-half cupful of yeast, or one-half a cake.
One-half cupful of molasses.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt
One salt-spoonful of soda.
One pint of rye-meal.
BREAD. 349
Place the corn meal in a mixing-bowl, and scald it with
just enough boiling water to wet it. Let it stand ten
minutes ; then put in cold water enough to make a soft
batter. When the batter is lukewarm, add the yeast and
the molasses, the soda dissolved in a little cold water,
the salt and the rye-meal. Beat the mixture well, and let
it rise over night ; or if made in the morning, let it rise
until it cracks open. Then stir it down, put it in a but-
tered and floured tin to rise again, and sprinkle flour over
the top. Bake in a moderate oven for two hours. This
recipe is very reliable.
CORN BREAD.
Two eggs.
One and a-half cupful of milk.
One large cupful of corn meal.
One-half cupful of wheat flour.
One and a-half table-spoonful of melted butter.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs first separately,
and then together. Sift the flour and meal well together,
put in the powder, and sift again. Place the milk in
a cake bowl, add to it the beaten yolks, the salt and
the sugar, and then the meal and flour. Mix all
very thoroughly together, and when well beaten stir
in the beaten whites. Bake half an hour in a well
buttered tin. The above quantities will make one
medium-sized loaf, and the bread is always good. It is
most palatable when warm, but it can be steamed and
warmed over after it is cold, so that it will be almost as
good as at first.
35O THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
BREAKFAST BREAD.
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of sugar.
Three eggs.
One quart of milk.
Five and a-half cupfuls of flour.
One-half cupful of Indian meal.
Five tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
This makes quite a large quantity. Rub the butter ancl
sugar to a cream, and add the beaten eggs. When these
are well mixed, stir in the milk gradually. Sift the flour,
meal and baking powder together, sifting two or three
times to make sure the powder is well distributed. Stir
the flour into the mixture, beating thoroughly, and bake
half an hour in well buttered pans.
FRENCH ROLLS.
These may be prepared with little trouble by making
a little larger quantity of the bread dough. After knead-
ing the dough for the usual time, set aside enough for a
pan of rolls, usually a pint. Work into this portion a
large table-spoonful of butter or lard, and let it stand in
a moderately cool place for four hours ; knead it again,
and let it stand three hours more ; then form the
dough into rolls by rolling it out very lightly, cutting the
rolls out with a biscuit cutter, and folding them not quite
in the center, like turn-overs. The third rising will take
an hour, after which bake the rolls half an hour in a
quick oven.
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS.
For eighteen good-sized rolls allow
BREAD. 351
Two scanty quarts of flour.
One pint of milk.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter or lard.
One-half cupful of yeast, or
One-half a cake of compressed yeast.
Boil the milk, and set it to cool. Sift the flour into a
mixing-bowl, rub the butter, sugar and salt into it, make
a well in the center, and turn into it the cold milk, and
the yeast-cake dissolved in a little water. Sprinkle the
top of the milk with a little of the flour, cover the bowl,
and leave the whole on the kitchen table until morning.
In the morning mix the mass together with a spoon,
then knead the dough for twenty minutes, return it to the
bowl, cover, and set it to rise in a warm place. When
it has become three times as large as at first (generally
in about three hours), turn it out on the bread-board, and
roll it to a thickness of half an inch. Cut the dough
with a round cutter, place a round stick the size of a
slate-pencil on a roll about one-third its width from one
side, press with the stick until the dough under it is about
half as thick as it was before, and fold the shorter side of
the roll over; repeat this process with each roll. Half a
tea-spoonful of butter may be spread between the folds of
each roll, if liked. Place the rolls in buttered pans,
cover with a cloth, and let them rise an hour and a-
half ; they should then be more than double their original
size. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. In making
the rolls be careful not to mix the flour with the yeast
and milk until the latter have stood several hours. Care
is needed in measuring the ingredients, as, nothing should
352 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
be added afterward. If the rolls are desired for the even-
ing meal begin them at eight o'clock, knead the dough
at twelve or one, set it to rise until half-past three, then
make it into rolls, which may rise in a cool place until
twenty minutes of six ; they may thus be baked by six
o'clock. If wanted for luncheon at one o'clock, set
them at seven, doubling the quantity of yeast to hurry
them ; knead the dough at nine, and shape into rolls at
eleven. They should then be ready to bake at twenty
minutes of one.
WHITE MOUNTAIN ROLLS.
N Two quarts of flour.
One and a-half pint of milk.
Two eggs (whites).
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of yeast, or one-half a cake.
Sift the flour into a bowl, and add to it the salt and
sugar. Boil the milk, and while it is still hot, put in the
butter to melt. When the milk is cooled to blood heat,
add the beaten whites of the eggs and the yeast, and stir
the mixture into the flour, beating vigorously with a
spoon. Knead well for twenty minutes, and set the
dough to rise over night. In the morning take pieces of
dough' the size of an egg, shape them into long rolls, and
place them side by side in a shallow pan that has been
well greased ; when they have risen to a little more than
double their original size, bake for half an hour. The
rolls will brown quickly and should be covered with
paper as soon as they begin to brown.
READ. 353
SWEDISH ROLLS.
Make half the quantity of dough directed in the pre-
ceding recipe, roll it very thin, sprinkle lightly with
water or spread with butter, and then sprinkle with sugar
and cinnamon, using three table-spoonfuls of sugar and
one of cinnamon. Roll the sheet the same as jelly-roll,
and cut the roll into slices an inch thick. Put these
slices into a well buttered pan, and when double their
original size, bake for twenty minutes. The cinnamon
may be omitted and the dough sprinkled with sugar and
a cupful of dried currants. These rolls are much liked
with coffee.
BUNS, NO. I.
Two cupfuls of milk.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two eggs.
Two salt-spoonfuls of salt.
Four cupfuls of flour.
( One-half cupful of yeast, or
1 One-half a cake.
Scald the milk, and when cool, put in the yeast and
salt. Beat the eggs well, add the sugar to them, and stir
both into the yeast and milk. Lastly stir in the flour,
beat well, and set the sponge in a warm place to rise over
night. In the morning add flour to make a stiff dough,
knead fifteen minutes, and replace it in the pan to rise.
When the dough is light add
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of currants.
One salt-spoonful of cinnamon or nutmeg.
Let the dough rise again until light, shape it into small,
23
354 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
round cakes, place these close together, and when well
risen, bake them twenty or thirty minutes in a moderate
oven. Glaze the buns with sugar and milk, or with the
white of an egg beaten stiff, with sugar added. These
buns are only good when fresh.
BUNS NO. 2.
One pint of bread dough.
One egg.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Butter the size of an egg.
One-half cupful of French currants.
One-half nutmeg, grated.
Mix the butter with the dough, working it in thor-
oughly ; then add the sugar, spice, fruit and egg. When
all is well mixed, roll out the dough half an inch thick,
cut it into round cakes with a biscuit-cutter, place these
in a well buttered tin, and leave them in a warm place to
rise. When doubled in size, bake ; and while still hot,
brush over the top with syrup, to glaze.
EASTER BUNS. (" HOT CROSS.")
The dough for these is made the same as in
Buns No. i, except that half a cupful of sugar is
used instead of the quantity given, and the currants and
egg are omitted. Roll the dough half an inch thick, cut
it into round cakes, and lay them in rows two inches
apart in a buttered baking-pan. When they have risen
to more than double their original size, make a cross
upon each with a sharp knife, and put them at once in
the oven. Bake twenty minutes, having the oven very
hot ; and glaze as above directed.
BREAD. 355
RUSKS.
Two cupfuls of milk.
One cupful of sugar.
One cupful of yeast.
One cupful of butter.
Two eggs.
One-half tea-spoonful of soda.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Flour.
At night scald the milk, and while it is cooling add the
sugar and salt. When lukewarm, put in the yeast, and
enough flour to make a thick batter ; then cover and set
in a warm place. In the morning work the butter into
the dough, and add the eggs, well beaten, and the soda,
dissolved in a little cold water. Add flour enough to
admit of rolling the dough out with a rolling-pin. Roll it
half an inch thick, cut out the rusks with a biscuit-cutter,
place them in a buttered pan, and when risen to more
than double the original size, bake them thirty minutes in
a moderate oven.
RAISED BISCUIT.
These are easily made for tea when bread has been
made, and the following quantities will make two good-
sized panfuls of biscuit.
One pint of bread dough.
One scanty pint of milk.
Two eggs.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Four table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One quart of flour.
356 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Mix all these ingredients but the flour in a bowl, cut-
ting the dough with a knife ; then add the flour, measur-
ing generously. Knead well, and set the dough in a warm
place for six hours. Work it down at the end of that
time, turn it out on a floured board, and roll it a-quarter
of an inch thick. Cut the dough with a biscuit-cutter,
place half of the cakes in buttered pans, and spread a lit-
tle soft butter upon each ; then take fresh cakes from the
board, and put them on top of those already in the pan.
Cover the whole with a clean towel, and set in a rather
cool place, the temperature being about 65. When the
biscuits are double their original size (which should be in
two hours), bake in a rather hot oven for thirty minutes.
STALE BREAD.
Bread should never be thrown away, nor should any
crusts be burned or thrown into the garbage barrel, as is
often done in many households. They should be placed
in a pan and dried very slowly in the oven, the door being
left open. When dry enough to crumble between the
fingers, put the crusts in a bag made of strong cloth or
ticking. Then pound the bag with a wooden mallet
until the crusts are reduced to fine crumbs. Sift these
crumbs, and put them away in boxes or glass jars : they
will then be ready for breading purposes whenever
needed. Wliole slices of stale bread may always be used
for toast ; and there are many recipes here given that
require bread for the making, such as pies, puddings,
stuffings, etc. With a little management each week there
will be no stale bread left over either to be thrown away
by a wasteful cook or to make an unnecessary amount of
crumbs.
BREAD, 357
TO WARM OVER BREAD AND ROLLS.
A stale loaf may be made very light and fresh in the
following manner: Dip the loaf quickly in enough cold
water to completely submerge it. Then set it on a pie-
tin in the oven to heat ; this will require fifteen or twenty
minutes for a loaf of ordinary size. Rolls and biscuit
may be warmed in the same way and are much more sat-
isfactory than when steamed.
BREAKFAST DISHES.
BISCUIT, GEMS, ETC.
" Then to breakfast, with what appetite you have.
<
BISCUIT. (BAKING POWDER.)
SHAKSPERE.
One quart of flour,
Two heaping tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
Sweet milk to moisten.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Two even table-spoonfuls of lard.
Place the salt in the flour, which should be measured
before it is sifted ; stir well, add the baking powder, and
sift once more. Rub the lard into the flour, using the
back of a spoon ; and when it is thoroughly mixed with
the flour, add the milk to moisten. The dough should
be just moist enough so that it will not stick to the
board ; it should not be at all hard, or the biscuit will be
hard and dry.
Mold the dough a moment, sprinkling the board with
flour; and when it forms a smooth ball roll it out an
inch thick. Cut the sheet into cakes with a small round
cutter, and place these in an ungreased tin. Bake thirty
minutes in a moderately quick oven. This quantity will
358
B RE A KFA S T DISHES. 359
make one dozen large biscuits, or eighteen if cut with a
small cutter. Some cooks prefer butter to lard in making
biscuit, but if the lard is perfectly sweet it is much better
than butter.
BISCUIT. (CREAM OF* TARTAR.)
These are made the same as the preceding, except that
in place of the baking powder are used
One tea-spoonful" of soda.
Two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar.
Grind the soda perfectly smooth on a plate, using a
spoon or knife, and mix it with the flour and cream of
tartar, sifting as directed. Care is required in the use of
soda, for if is not perfectly pulverized, the biscuit will be
yellow and most disappointing.
BISCUIT. (SOUR MILK.)
Make the same as the baking-powder biscuit, but use
one even tea-spoonful of pulverized soda instead of the
baking powder, and moisten with sour milk instead of
sweet. The milk should be unmistakably sour, but need
not be very thick, to insure success.
BISCUIT. (SOUR CREAM.)
Make the same as the baking-powder biscuit, but omit
the butter, and substitute a tea-spoonful of soda for the
baking powder. The cream should be rich.
BISCUIT. (SWEET CREAM.)
These are made the same as the baking-powder biscuit,
omitting the butter. As in the last recipe, the cream
should be rich.
360 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
MARYLAND BEATEN BISCUIT.
One quart of flour.
One-quarter cupful of lard.
One-half tea-spoonful salt.
One cupful of cold water.
Rub the lard and salt into the flour, and mix all with
the water until a stiff dough is formed. Knead ten min-
utes, then beat hard with a biscuit-beater or heavy rolling-
pin, turning the mass over and over until it begins to
blister and looks light and puffy, or until, pulling off a
piece quickly will give a sharp, snapping sound. When
the dough is in this condition pull off small pieces sud-
denly, and form it into round biscuits ; then pinch off a
bit from the top of each, turn the biscuit over, and press it
with the thumb, leaving a hollow in the middle. Arrange
the biscuit some distance apart in the pans, prick them
with a fork, and bake twenty minutes in a quick oven.
They should be light and of even grain and should crack
at the edges like crackers.
SWEDISH BISCUIT.
One quart of flour.
Six table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter or lard.
One cupful of dried currants.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
One pint of milk.
Place the flour, salt, baking powder and three spoon-
fuls of the sugar in a flour-sieve, and sift all thoroughly.
Rub the butter into this mixture, wet the latter with the
BREAKFAST DTSHES. 361
milk, and stir the dough quickly into the shape of a ball.
Sprinkle the board with flour, and roll the dough until it
is one-third of an inch thick. Sprinkle upon this sheet of
dough the three remaining spoonfuls of sugar, sift the
nutmeg over the sugar, and spread the currants over all.
Roll up the dough, and cut it into slices about an inch
thick. Place the slices in a well buttered baking-tin, and
bake twenty minutes. The currants may be omitted, if
not cared for.
GRAHAM GEMS. (SOUR MILK.)
The following quantities will make one dozen gems of
medium size.
One tea-cupful of sour milk.
One egg.
One-half tea-spoonful of soda.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One and a half table-spoonfuls of melted butter.
Graham flour to thicken.
Beat the egg until light, and add to it the milk, sugar
and salt, and the soda dissolved in a little cold water.
Stir well, adding graham flour sufficient to make a batter
so thick that it will not run off the spoon. Lastly add
the melted butter, and stir well. Heat the gem pans, and
oil them well, using a little butter placed in a clean
cloth, and rubbing it over the pan when heated. Drop
enough of the mixture into each space in the pan to a
little more than half fill it, and bake twenty minutes in a
hot oven.
362 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
GRAHAM GEMS. (SWEET MILK.)
One quart of graham flour.
Two eggs.
Butter the size of an egg.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
Milk to moisten.
Mix the salt, sugar, powder and flour well together by
sifting all through a sieve; then add the eggs, well
beaten, and the melted butter. Stir in enough sweet
milk to make a thick batter, and bake twenty minutes in
well heated and oiled gem-pans.
BREAD GEMS.
One pint of stale bread-crumbs.
One and a-half cupful of sifted flour.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
One pint of milk.
Two eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Soak the crumbs in the milk for half an hour. Beat
the whites and the yolks of the eggs separately ; add the
yolks to the bread and milk, then the melted butter and
the salt, and mix all well together. Stir in the flour, beat
until smooth, and stir in carefully the whites of the eggs
and the baking powder. Bake thirty minutes in heated
and oiled gem-pans.
GRAHAM GEMS, WITHOUT EGGS.
One cupful of sugar.
Three cupfuls of sour milk.
BREAKFAST DISHES. 363
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
Graham flour to thicken.
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the soda,
well powdered, then the milk, and lastly the flour to
thicken. Bake twenty minutes in well heated and oiled
gem-pans.
CORN GEMS.
The following quantities will make two dozen gems :
Two cupfuls of corn meal.
One cupful of flour.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Three eggs.
One cupful of cold sweet milk.
One cupful of boiling sweet milk.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Place the corn meal in a mixing-bowl, put the butter in
the center, and pour over it the boiling milk. Stir well,
and add the cold milk, the eggs, well beaten, the salt, and
the flour, in which the baking powder has been well
mixed. Stir well to mix thoroughly. Bake thirty min-
utes in well oiled and heated gem-pans.
TEA GEMS.
One pint of flour.
One-half cupful (scant) of sugar.
Two eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Milk to make a thick batter.
364 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Stir the powder, sugar and salt into the flour, and sift
all through a sieve. Add the melted butter and the well-
beaten eggs, stir the mixture well, and add enough milk
to thin it to a thick batter. Bake twenty minutes in well
oiled and heated gem-pans.
RICE GEMS.
Two cupfuls of sweet milk.
One cupful of sugar.
One large cupful of boiled rice.
Flour to thicken.
One egg.
Two table-spoonfuls of melted butter.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the
beaten eggs, then the milk and then the rice and salt.
Stir well, mixing thoroughly. Sift the powder with a
little flour, add it to the mixture, and stir in more flour as
needed to make a rather stiff batter. Bake thirty min-
utes in heated and oiled gem-pans.
GRAHAM PUFFS.
One egg.
One cupful of wheat flour.
Two cupfuls of graham flour.
Two-thirds cupful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One pint of sweet milk.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the beaten
egg, then the salt and lastly the milk, stirring all well
BREAKFAST DISHES. 365
together. Sift together the two kinds of flour and the
baking powder, and add them to the mixture. Bake
twenty minutes in heated and oiled gem-pans.
WHEAT PUFFS.
Two eggs.
One pint of sweet milk.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
One tea-spoonful of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Flour to thicken.
Beat the eggs, and add them to the milk. Stir in the
melted butter and the salt, and add flour to thicken to a
rather stiff batter. Bake twenty minutes the same as
gems. These puffs are particularly nice with coffee, as
they contain no sugar.
POP-OVERS.
Two tea-cupfuls of sweet milk.
Two tea-cupfuls of sifted flour.
Two eggs.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Two tea-spoonfuls of butter.
Place the salt, sugar and flour together, and rub the
butter into the mixture. Beat the eggs light, add the milk
to the dry mixture, and then stir in the eggs. Bake in
hot gem -pans twenty minutes.
MUFFINS.
These are made very much like gems, but the batter is
left thinner, and they are usually baked in muffin-rings.
366 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
The batter should be just thin enough to pour from a
spoon, but not so thin as to float the rings.
GRAHAM MUFFINS.
Two cupfuls of graham flour.
One cupful of sweet milk.
One-third cupful of sugar.
One egg.
One tea-spoonful of baking powder
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Stir the sugar, salt and baking powder together, and
sift them with the flour through a flour sieve. Add the
milk to the mixture, and when well stirred, add the beaten
egg. Bake twenty minutes in muffin-rings.
CORN MUFFINS, NO. I.
Three eggs.
Two cupfuls of sweet milk.
One cupful of flour.
Two cupfuls of Indian meal.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Four table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
Stir the sugar, salt and butter to a cream, and add the
beaten egg and the milk, stirring well. Sift the meal,
flour and powder together, and add them to the mixture.
Stir well, and bake in muffin-rings.
CORN MUFFINS, NO. 2.
The following ingredients will make fifteen muffins :
One cupful of corn meal.
Five cupfuls of boiling water.
BREAKFAST DISHES. 367
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Place the butter, sugar, meal and salt together in the
top vessel of a double boiler (a tin pail may be used, set-
ting it in a kettle of hot water), turn the boiling water
upon the meal, stir until smooth, and cook an hour. Do
this at night, if the muffins are required for breakfast.
Turn the batter, when cooked, into a small mixing-bowl,
and pour over it a-quarter of a cupful of cold water ;
this prevents a crust forming, and should not be stirred
in until morning. In the morning beat the batter up soft
and smooth, and add
One and a-half cupful of corn meal.
One cupful of wheat flour.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One egg.
Sift the two kinds of flour and the baking powder to-
gether, and stir them into the mixture, adding the egg ?
well beaten, at the last. Bake in rings or in gem-pans.
WHEAT MUFFINS.
One egg.
Butter the size of an egg.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Flour to thicken.
Rub the sugar and butter to a cream, and add the egg,
well beaten, and then the milk and salt. Sift the baking
powder with a little flour, stir it into the mixture, and add
368 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
enough flour to make a batter. Bake twenty minutes in
well-oiled muffin-rings.
CORN AND RYE MUFFINS.
These are made the same as Corn Muffins, No. 2, add-
ing, instead of the flour and meal in the morning,
One cupful of corn meal.
One cupful of rye flour.
One cupful of wheat flour.
RICE MUFFINS.
One pint of flour.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One cupful of cold cooked rice.
Two eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half pint of milk.
Mix the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a sieve,
and rub them all through. Rub the butter into the flour
thoroughly, and beat the eggs light. Add the milk to the
dry mixture, and when smooth stir in the rice. Beat again
thoroughly, add the eggs, and bake quickly for thirty-five
minutes, either in gem-pans or muffin-rings.
WAFFLES.
A waffle-iron is made of two iron griddles fitted and
fastened together at one side with a hinge. Each griddle
is divided into compartments, which are usually grooved
into diamonds, hearts, rounds, etc. (See " Kitchen Uten-
sils," page 37.) If the waffle-iron has not been used for
BREAKFAST DISHES. 369
some time, wash it thoroughly with soap and water, \vipe
it dry, and rub well with dry salt. The iron should be
placed over the fire, heated on each side, and greased
carefully, as it is very hard to clean if the cakes stick to it.
Put a piece of salt pork on a fork, or a small piece of
butter in a clean rag, and rub this all over both griddles ;
the heat will melt the butter and let just enough of it
through the cloth, so that this method is much better than
applying the butter with a knife. Close the griddles and
turn them that the fat may be distributed equally. Have
the waffle batter in a pitcher so that the filling may be
done quickly, and fill each compartment two-thirds full.
Cover with the other griddle, cook one minute, turn the
iron, and cook a little longer on that side. It takes but
a little over two minutes to cook waffles. When done,
carefully remove them from the irons, place them on a
hot dish, and serve at once. Any kind of griddle-cake
batter, with the addition of the extra oiling to make the
cakes crisp, may be cooked in a waffle-iron, if one does
not regard the extra labor it involves.
WHEAT WAFFLES.
Four eggs.
One quart of milk.
One large table-spoonful of butter.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Flour to thicken.
Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately, melt
the butter, stir it into the yolks, and add the salt, the
milk and the whites of the eggs, stirring well. Beat in
quickly the flour, a little of which should be mixed with
24
3/0 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
the baking powder. The batter should ' be just thin
enough to pour. Bake in a waffle-iron, as previously di-
rected. This is a large recipe.
PLAIN RAISED WAFFLES.
One quart of flour.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Three eggs.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
One-half cupful of yeast, or one-half a cake of compressed yeast.
One and a-half pint of milk.
Scald the milk and cool it. Rub the butter into the
flour, and add the salt, the cooled milk and the yeast.
Beat the mixture well for three minutes, cover, and let it
stand in a warm place until light, generally over night.
In the morning beat the whites and yolks of the eggs
separately, add the yolks to the batter and then the
whites, stirring well. Let the batter stand fifteen min-
utes, and then cook in a waffle-iron.
CORN-MEAL WAFFLES.
One cupful of flour.
One cupful of corn meal.
Two cupfuls of sour milk.
One-half cupful of sour cream.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One table-spoonful of cold water.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two eggs.
Mix the sugar, salt, meal and flour. Beat the eggs
light. Dissolve the soda in the cold water, and stir it
into the sour cream and milk. Pour the liquid upon the
BREAKFAST DISHES. 3 7 1
dry mixture, add the eggs after stirring well, and bake in
waffle-irons. Should there be no sour cream at hand, use
two and a-half cupfuls of sour milk and a table-spoonful
of melted butter, measured after melting.
GRIDDLE-CAKES.
A soap-stone griddle is the best for this purpose as it
does not require greasing ; but it should be allowed twice
the length of time to heat through that would be required
to heat an iron griddle. If an iron griddle is used, put a
small piece of fat salt pork on a fork, and when the grid-
dle is hot enough for the fat to sizzle, rub it all over with
the pork, greasing it plentifully and evenly. Many prefer
an iron griddle, because the fat used in oiling it imparts a
delicate crispness to the cakes. A turnip, cut in half, is
also excellent for rubbing the griddle before frying cakes,
and is preferred by those who do not care for much rich-
ness in the cakes. Take up a spoonful of the batter and
pour it on the griddle from the end of the spoon ; the
batter should hiss as it touches the griddle. Watch the
cakes carefully. When those first put on are full of bub-
bles they are ready to turn ; and generally when all have
been turned the first are ready to take off the griddle.
Turn the griddle often, bringing each edge of it in turn
over the hottest part of the stove, that the cakes may cook
evenly.
SWEET MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES.
One and a-half pint of milk.
Two eggs.
Flour to make a batter.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of melted butter.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
3/2 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Beat the eggs well, and stir them into the milk. Add
the salt and baking powder, and enough flour to thicken,
and lastly, stir in the melted butter. Too much flour
should not be used, if a light, thin cake is desired. It is
wise to bake one cake first, to see if the batter is thick
enough and the griddle sufficiently heated.
SOUR MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES.
These are made the same as the preceding, except that
sour milk is used instead of sweet, and a tea-spoonful of
soda dissolved in a table-spoonful of cold water takes the
place of the baking-powder.
BREAD GRIDDLE-CAKES.
These are especially well liked by people fond of
griddle-cakes. The following quantities will be enough
for five persons :
One pint of sweet milk.
One and a-half pint of bread-crumbs.
Two eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Flour to thicken.
If the crumbs are hard, soak them over night in the
milk ; if soft, they may be soaked for half an hour in the
morning. When they are soft, turn them with the milk
into a colander, and mash the bread through it. Add
the beaten eggs, salt, powder and flour, and the batter is
ready to fry. If an iron griddle is used to cook these
cakes, it should be oiled a little more than usual. The
cakes are very tender and should be turned carefully;
and they require longer frying than any other kind.
BREAKFAST DISHES. 373
RICE GRIDDLE-CAKES.
One pint of boiled rice.
Two pints of milk.
One and a-half pint of flour.
Three eggs.
One tea-spoonful of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One table -spoonful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
Put the cooked rice to soak over night in a pint of
the milk, and in the morning add the flour, salt, sugar
and butter. Beat the mixture well, and add the eggs,
well beaten, and the other pint of milk, into which the
baking powder has been stirred. This makes quite
enough cakes for six or seven persons.
CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE-CAKES.
One-half pint of corn meal.
One-half pint of flour.
One pint of boiling water.
One and a-half cupful of sweet milk.
One tea-spoonful of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Two eggs.
Put the meal, sugar and salt in a mixing-bowl, and
pour over them the boiling water. Beat thoroughly, and
add the cold milk. When the mixture is quite cool stir
in the flour and baking powder, mixing well ; and lastly
add the eggs, well beaten. The cakes should be small,
well browned and thoroughly cooked, and they need a
little longer frying than wheat griddle-cakes.
3/4 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
GRAHAM GRIDDLE-CAKES.
One cupful of graham flour.
One cupful of wheat flour.
One pint of sour milk.
Two eggs.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of cold water.
One large table-spoonful of melted butter.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
Mix the two kinds of flour together, and add the sugar
and salt. Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs sepa-
rately, then dissolve the soda in the water, and stir it into
the milk. Add the liquid to the dry mixture, and when
well stirred put in the beaten egg and the butter. The
batter is then ready to fry.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
There is nothing cooked that is more variable than
buckwheat cakes. One day they may be perfectly good
and the next wholly disappointing, although there may
be no apparent cause for the difference. It should be
borne in mind that it is difficult to make them light and
dry when they are made wholly of buckwheat flour, and
that batter raised with fresh yeast will not be so good as
that raised with some of the unused batter of the previous
day. Following is a very reliable recipe for buckwheat
cakes :
One pint of buckwheat flour.
One-half cupful of Indian meal.
One-half cupful of yeast, or one-half cake of compressed yeast.
One pint of warm water.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One table-spoonful of molasses.
BREAKFAST DISHES. 375
Beat the batter thoroughly, and place it where it will
rise over night ; it should rise and fall again by morning.
In the morning add a tea-spoonful of finely powdered
soda, stir well, and fry. If the cakes are desired three
times a week, fresh yeast will not be required after the
first making, if a little more than a pint of the batter is
reserved each time in a cool place and used instead of
the yeast. Always put molasses in these cakes as it
helps to give them a fine brown appearance in frying.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES, WITH BREAD.
Two cupfuls of buckwheat.
Two and a-half cupfuls of warm water.
One cupful of stale bread.
One cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half cake of compressed yeast.
Dissolve the yeast in half a cupful of the water, put this
with the rest of the water, and pour all upon the buck-
wheat. Add the salt, beat well for ten minutes, cover
the batter, and set it to rise. Place the bread in a bowl
with the milk, and let it soak over night in a cool place.
In the morning mash it fine and light, and add it to the
risen buckwheat. The batter is then ready to fry.
FRENCH PANCAKES. (NO SODA.)
Three eggs.
One cupful of milk.
One-half cupful of flour.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
One-half table-spoonful of salad oil.
376 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Beat the yolks and the whites of the eggs separately,
add the milk, salt and sugar to the yolks, pour one-third
of this mixture on the flour, and stir it to a smooth paste.
Then add the remainder, beat well, and stir in the oil and
the beaten whites. Heat and butter a small frying-pan,
and pour into it enough of the mixture to cover the bot-
tom. When this side is brown, turn and brown the
other side. When done lay each cake on a warm plate,
spread it with butter and sugar or jelly, roll it up, sprinkle
with powdered sugar, and serve.
HOE CAKES.
The old colored cooks in the South used to make these
to perfection and bake them on their hoes, whence the
name.
One pint of corn meal.
One-half ea-spoonful of salt.
Place the corn meal and salt in a bowl, and pour in
sufficient boiling water to moisten the meal. After it
has stood ten minutes, add cold water until the mixture
will drop from the spoon. Bake the same as griddle-
cakes on a hot griddle or a hoe. When done place a bit
of butter on the top of each cake, and serve.
CORN DODGER?.
Two cupfuls of corn meal.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Boiling water.
One table-spoonful of lard or butter.
One table-spoonful of milk.
One egg.
Mix the salt and meal together dry, put the lard in the
BREAKFAST DISHES. 377
center, and pour on enough boiling water to wet the meal.
Beat the egg until light, add the mill$, and when the
liquid has cooled stir it into the meal. Beat the mixture
well, drop it by spoonfuls upon a greased pan, and bake
in a very hot oven for fifteen minutes.
CORN-MEAL PONE.
One quart of Indian meal.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One table-spoonful of butter or lard.
Cold water to make a dough.
Mix these ingredients together, mould the dough with
the hands into thin, oblong cakes, lay these in a well
greased pan, and bake quickly. The common way is to
form the dough into oval mounds that are higher in the
middle than at the ends, shaping them rapidly and lightly
with the hands by tossing the dough over and over. This
is done with great dexterity by the cooks in the South,
where a " pone " of this kind forms a part of every din-
ner ; it is broken, not cut, and eaten hot.
FLANNEL CAKES.
One quart of flour.
Two eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
Three table-spoonfuls of yeast.
One table-spoonful of butter, melted.
One and a- half pint of milk.
Scald the milk, and when it has cooled add the salt,
flour and yeast. Beat the mixture until light, and set it
to rise over night. In the morning add the melted
butter and the beaten eggs, and bake on a griddle.
These are the usual griddle-cakes in the South.
3/8 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
JOHNNIE CAKE.
The following quantities will make two small loaves :
Two cupfuls of sour milk.
One cupful of sifted flour.
Two cupfuls of Indian meal.
Three table-spoonfuls of melted butter.
Two table spoonfuls of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Two eggs.
Place the milk, salt and sugar in a mixing-bowl, and
beat the eggs until light. Dissolve the soda in a little
cold water, and stir it into the mixture in the bowl.
Then add the flour and meal, sifted together, and the
melted butter and the eggs, stirring these ingredients in
in the order named. Pour the batter into well buttered
tins, and bake thirty minutes.
SHORTCAKES.
These are made either with fresh strawberries, peaches,
etc., or with canned fruits, but the fresh fruits are much
to be preferred. For making the crust the baking powder
biscuit dough previously mentioned is always satisfactory.
Mould the dough into a round or oblong mass, having it
as soft as can be handled ; and press it out thin with the
hands, avoiding the use of a rolling-pin. Then place the
dough in a tin like a loaf of bread, and bake forty-five
minutes in a moderate oven. When done it should be
twice as thick as at first. With a long, thin knife split
the loaf in two parts, cutting it through the middle ; lay
the inner sides upward, spread the soft cake generously
with butter, and sprinkle with a light sifting of sugar. If
BREAKFAST DISHES. 379
strawberries are to be used, remove the hulls and mix a
tea-cupful of sugar with each quart of berries ; then leave
them to season for at least an hour, stirring them up
carefully three or four times during that time. If there
seems to be very little juice at the end of half an hour,
crush a few of the berries, and stir again. When the
crust is buttered, divide the berries equally between the
two pieces, One quart of berries, if good, will be quite
enough for the amount of crust given in the recipe, which
will be ample for six persons. Sprinkle the berries with
a light sifting of sugar, and either place the two pieces of
cake side by side on a platter or lay one on top of
the other, always keeping the berries uppermost. Pile
whipped cream on top, and serve ; or serve with a cream
sauce made of a pint of sweet cream, sweetened to
taste and adding two table-spoonfuls of crushed berries.
Some cooks divide the dough into two parts, lay one
half in the baking-tin, spread it lightly with butter, and
then place the other half on the top ; the cake is then
baked, and when taken from the oven the two portions
separate easily, thus requiring no cutting. The butter
forms a very thin coat, through which the butter and
berry juice afterwards applied cannot pass ; and for this
reason many prefer the former method, which presents a
soft surface that receives the seasoning admirably.
Peaches, oranges and apricots make delicious short-
cakes.
DOUGHNUTS. (SOUR MILK.)
Two cupfuls of sugar.
Two cupfuls of sour milk.
Eight table-spoonfuls of melted butter.
380 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Four eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Two tea-spoonfuls of soda.
Two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar.
Flour to thicken.
Add the salt and sugar to the milk, and then the soda,
dissolved in a little cold water. Sift a little flour, stir
into it the cream of tartar, and add this to the milk ;
then stir in the melted butter, and the eggs, well beaten.
Add only enough flour to admit of rolling out the dough.
Turn the dough on a floured bread-board, and let it stand
fifteen minutes before cutting out. Roll it half an inch
thick, cut out with a doughnut cutter, and drop the cakes
into very hot fat. When they are brown on one side turn
them with a spoon and brown them on the other side ;
then take them out with a skimmer. Do not pierce the
doughnuts with a fork, as that allows the steam inside to
escape and renders them heavy. When cold roll the
doughnuts in pulverized sugar.
DOUGHNUTS. (SWEET MILK.)
Two eggs.
One cupful of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
Flour to thicken.
One table-spoonful of butter. *
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
Rub the butter and sugar together, and add the beaten
eggs, salt and milk. Stir the powder in a little of the
flour, and add this to the mixture, together with the
dough and just enough more flour to admit of rolling out.
BREAKFAS T DISHES. 3 8 1
The softer the dough is made the lighter and more
tender will be the doughnuts when cooked. Fry in very
hot fat as above ; and when the cakes are cold, roll
them in sugar.
RAISED DOUGHNUTS.
The following is a very reliable recipe :
One pint of milk.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
One cupful of yeast, or one cake.
One-half cupful of lard.
One-half cupful of butter.
Three eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
Flour.
Soak the compressed yeast (if used ) in half a cupful
of water, then add the milk, and flour enough to
make a thick batter, and set it in a warm place to rise.
When light, add the other ingredients, and knead the
same as bread, adding flour to make a dough. Set the
dough to rise, and when light roll it out half an inch
thick, cut out with a doughnut-cutter, and leave the
doughnuts in a warm place to rise. As soon as they are
perfectly light fry them in hot fat. In making these
doughnuts set the sponge about three o'clock in the
afternoon, knead it* at night the same as bread, and
mold and cut out on the following morning. In this way
the time of rising does not interfere with other work and
is not hurried. It is best to scald and cool the milk
before using it for the sponge, thus preventing any chance
of its becoming sour. Roll the doughnuts in confection-
ers' sugar when cold.
382 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
CRULLERS.
Three eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Flour to thicken.
Three table-spoonfuls of milk.
Six table-spoonfuls of melted butter.
Six table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Rub the butter, salt and sugar together, add the beaten
eggs and the milk and flour enough to roll out the
dough. Roll half an inch thick, cut out and fry in hot lard
as previously directed.
FRIED CAKES.
Three eggs.
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
Three table-spoonfuls of melted butter.
Flour to thicken.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
Place the sugar, salt, spice and baking powder in a lit-
tle flour, and mix well, sifting all through a flour sieve.
Beat the eggs light, and add them to the milk. Then
stir the two mixtures well together, and add just enough
more flour to admit of rolling nicely. Roll the dough
half an inch thick, cut out with a round cutter, and fry in
hot lard.
FRITTERS.
These are fried the same as doughnuts in plenty of hot
lard ; they are not, however, made thick enough to roll
outj but are dropped from a spoon, being only a thick
BREAKFAST DISHES. 383
batter. Fritters are either made plain and served with
hot syrup or are seasoned with fruits, vegetables, clams
or oysters stirred into the batter. . Recipes for the latter
varieties will be found under their respective headings.
Fruit fritters are made by dropping the fruit into the
plain batter and then frying. Fritters are always served
hot.
PLAIN FRITTERS.
One egg.
One-half pint of sweet milk.
Flour to thicken.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
Place all the ingredients together, beating the egg well
before adding it, and using enough flour to make a thick
batter. It should not run from a spoon, but should be
thick enough to be dropped by the spoonful. Serve with
hot sugar syrup or hot maple syrup.
SOUR MILK FRITTERS.
One coffee-cupful -of sour milk.
One egg.
Flour to thicken.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
Two table-spoonfuls of melted butter.
Mix together the same as in the preceding recipe, fry,
and serve hot.
CEREALS FOR BREAKFAST.
There is scarcely a household nowadays in which
some kind of mush or porridge does not form a portion
of the morning meal The grain preparations are almost
384 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
innumerable, and many of them are crushed or steamed
so that the time required to cook is greatly diminished.
Many people, however, prefer wheat or oats that are
unrolled, and these require long cooking to make them
digestible. The names of a few cereals are here given,
together with a brief description of each.
Cracked wheat Whole wheat grains.
Farina Made from wheat.
Hominy Made from Indian corn, the grain being left
nearly whole.
Grits Fine hominy.
Samp Made from corn, which is merely broken into a
number of pieces.
Hulled Corn The corn soaked to remove the hulls.
Cerealine Made from corn.
Oatmeal This is made in three grades of fineness, the
coarsest being known as " B B." This is simply the
whole oats minus the husks and is the kind used by the
Scotch people.
OATMEAL MUSH.
If the coarse meal is used, allow
One cupful of oatmeal.
Four cupfuls of water.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Place the meal in the double boiler with the water and
salt, and do not stir it. Cover the kettle tightly, and
keep the water in the under kettle boiling. The mush
should cook three hours. This length of boiling is
not possible before breakfast if done in the morning ;
therefore, the mush should be cooked the day before it is
BREAKFAST DISHES. 385
needed. Leave it in the kettle over night, and in the
morning add half a cupful of boiling water, replenish the
hot water in the lower kettle, and set the whole to heat
while the remainder of the breakfast is being prepared.
If steamed or rolled oats are liked, they can be cooked
in the morning in half an hour, allowing a cupful of
meal to one quart of water and a tea-spoonful of salt.
Stir up two or three times, and during the last five min-
utes remove the cover from the kettle to allow the steam
to escape, so that the mush will not be too moist when
served.
WHEAT GERM MUSH.
Wheat Germs is the name given a fine meal obtained
from the heart of the wheat. Place a quart of boiling-
water in the upper portion of the double boiler, having
water boiling also, in the lower portion. Gradually
sprinkle in a cupful of the germs, add a tea-spoonful
of salt, and stir constantly until the mixture boils. Cook
twenty minutes, and serve with sugar and cream or milk,
or with syrup. This makes a pleasant change from oat-
meal and cracked wheat. Any of the mush left over may
be fried like corn meal mush or hominy.
GRITS OR SMALL-HOMINY MUSH.
Buy only the fine white hominy. Wash a cupful of
the hominy in three waters, stir it into a quart of boiling
water, add a tea-spoonful of salt, and boil for half an
hour.
FRIED GRITS.
Pour the hominy mush while hot into a deep dish that
has just been dipped in cold water. When the mush is
386 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
cold, cut it into slices, sprinkle these with flour, and fry
in just enough fat to keep them from burning. This
mush requires a long time to brown, and the pan should
be covered, as the fat spatters.
CORN MUSH.
This is usually made by gradually sprinkling a pint
of corn meal into three pints of boiling water, stirring
constantly, adding two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and boiling
slowly for three hours. Keep the kettle covered during
the boiling, and add water if the mush becomes
too thick. Serve with milk and sugar. Place all the
mush that is left after the first meal in an earthenware
'dish which has been previously wet with cold water, to be
fried when cold. One of the large baking-powder tins is
also a very convenient receptable to use for this purpose,
as the mush when cold can be easily slipped out of it and
the slices will be round and most inviting. The tin
should be wet before the mush is poured in.
Another method of cooking corn mush is as follows :
Put on a quart of water to boil. Stir a pint of cold milk
with a pint of corn meal and a tea-spoonful of salt.
When the water boils pour this mixture gradually into it,
stirring all the time. There is less likelihood of the mush
being lumpy when mixed in this way.
FRIED CORN MUSH.
Cut the cold mush into slices about a-quarter of an
inch thick, and fry until brown and crisp in a very little
fat ; or sprinkle the slices with flour, and fry ; or dip
each slice first in salted beaten egg and then in bread or
cracker crumbs, and fry brown. Fried mush is one of the
BREAKFAST DISHES. 387
most delicious of breakfast dishes when properly pre-
pared. The fat should be very hot, so that a crust will
quickly form upon the slices preventing them from soak-
ing up any of the grease.
PIES.
" Who'll dare deny the truth,
There's poetry in pie ? "
LONGFELLOW.
PASTRY.
IT is not a difficult thing to make puff-paste, yet nearly
all cooks and housekeepers regard it a feat rather hard
to accomplish. The work is not complicated, but it must
be done very rapidly and with great delicacy of touch.
In the many rules given in as many books the principal
ingredients are practically the same a pound of butter
to a pound of flour, with differences in the way of lemon-
juice, eggs or sugar.
In making puff-paste the object should be to form
as many distinct layers as possible, and each layer should
be as thin as a sheet of paper. To insure this result, all
the materials and utensils used should be very cold, and
the work done in a cool room. Puff-paste should never
be attempted with lard or a mixture of lard and butter ;
and the butter used must be of good quality. The best
flour for this work is that made by the " old process,"
and commonly known as "pastry flour." In winter,
when the temperature is at freezing point, or in summer,
when a refrigerator is at hand, it is really but little more
388
PIES, 389
tax on time and muscle to make this paste than to pro-
duce any other variety of crust. Hundreds of different
dishes can be made with it ; and Careme, the noted
French professional, has devoted a good-sized volume to
the subject. As there can be no better mode of making
the paste than the one he has given to the world, we pre-
sent his recipe in this connection. It may be of assist-
ance to know that four cupfuls of sifted flour make a
pound in weight, and that a cupful of lard or butter is
half a pound in weight.
CAREME'S RECIPE FOR PUFF-PASTE.
Twelve ounces of finely sifted flour.
Twelve ounces of butter.
One scant glassful of ice-water.
Two drains of salt.
Two eggs (yolks).
Having placed the flour on the board, make a small hole
in the middle of it, into which put the salt, the yolks of
the eggs, and nearly a glassful of ice-water. With the
ends of the fingers gradually mix the flour with the liquid
ingredients, adding a little more water when necessary,
until the paste is of the proper consistency rather firm
than otherwise. Then lean the hand on the board and
work the paste for. some minutes, when it will become
soft to the touch and glossy in appearance. Care must
be taken in mixing the flour with the liquid that the latter
does not escape, and that the paste be very lightly
gathered together to prevent it forming into lumps, which
would render it stiff and very difficult to work, thus mak-
ing a failure of the paste very probable. To ascertain
whether the dough has been properly worked, draw it out
390 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
and if it immediately recedes to its former shape, the
cook may be sure it has been clumsily and irregularly
mixed. To remedy this, roll the paste out carefully and
place here and there upon it five or six pieces of butter,
each the size of a walnut ; then work it as before until the
proper degree of softness is attained. The paste should
neither be too stiff nor too soft, but of a proper medium ;
yet it is better for it to be too soft than too stiff. A
warm place should not be chosen in which to make puff
paste, hence it is rather difficult to do work of this kind
properly in summer. If a cool place cannot be found,
the paste might be made up slightly stiffer in summer
than in winter. When the paste has been made as
above, cut in pieces three-quarters of a pound of butter
, which has been lying for twenty minutes in ice-water, and
been afterward well washed and pounded. Squeeze and
work the butter well in a napkin to separate the water
from it and at the same time to render it soft, and, above
all, of an even consistency; then as quickly as possible
roll the paste into a square on a marble slab, being par-
ticular to make the ends of the dough perfectly even, as
success depends largely on folding properly. Place the
butter in the middle, spread it over half the paste, and
immediately turn the other half over the butter to cover
it. Then roll the paste out to be about three feet in
length, fold it so as to make three thicknesses, and roll
it as before ; then fold it once more into three equal
parts, roll it to a greater length, fold it, and place it
quickly on a plate sprinkled with flour. Set the plate
upon ten pounds of pounded ice, cover the paste with a
second plate, and place a pound of -broken ice on top of
the latter plate, which serves to keep the surface of the
PIES. 39 1
paste cool, and also to prevent it being softened by the
action of the air. After two or three minutes remove
the top plate and turn the paste upside down, instantly
covering it as before. In about fifteen minutes roll the
paste out, and use it very expeditiously.
Thus in less than half an hour it is possible to make
very fine puff-paste, but this is only provided everything
has been previously prepared the ice pounded, the
butter frozen and the oven made quite hot, for otherwise
the paste cannot be made so quickly. The heating of
the oven must be attended to by all means, for it some-
times requires fully an hour to bring it to the proper tem-
perature. It is safe to begin to make the paste when the
oven is half heated.
PUFF-PASTE (AMERICAN).
The following recipe is that used by one of our profes-
sional cooks, and is somewhat different in its working
from the preceding, but is highly successful. It is not
so rich as the Careme paste.
One pound of flour.
Three-quarters of a pound of butter.
Ice- water.
Two eggs (yolks).
Two tea-spoonfuls of salt.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
Place the flour when sifted on a board or marble slab,
and sprinkle over it the sugar and salt ; then beat the
yolks of the eggs, and stir into them a few spoonfuls of ice-
cold water. Pour the eggs slowly into the center of the
flour with the left hand, working them at the same time
392 THE 1'A TTERN COOK-BOO PC.
well into the mass with the tips of the fingers of the right
hand. Continue to work the mixture, turning the fingers
round and round on the board, until you have a well-
worked, smooth and fine paste. Now roll the paste out
into a rectangular form, being particular to have the
edges quite straight, since, as we said before, much de-
pends upon the even folding of the paste. Work the
butter (which, if at all soft, should be laid for some min-
utes in very cold water) until the moisture and salt are
wiped out and it is quite supple, being careful, however,
that it does not become too soft, as in this condition it
would ruin the paste. Divide the butter into three equal
parts, spread one part as flatly and evenly as possible
over half the paste, turn the other half over it, and
fold a second time from right to left. Roll out to the
same rectangular form as before, spread the second
portion of the butter on half of the crust, fold and
roll out again, and repeat the process with the third por-
tion of butter. The paste has now been given what is
called " three turns," and it should be given three turns
more. After the first three turns, however, and after
each of the last three, the paste should be placed on the
ice or in a cool place for from ten to fifteen minutes.
This will prevent the butter becoming soft enough to
penetrate the dough. Each time, before the dough is
folded, it should be turned half round so that it will be
rolled in a different direction ; in this way the layers will
become more even. If it becomes necessary to turn the
paste in order to sprinkle the board with flour, it may be
done in this way: hold the end of the paste to the rolling-
pin, and then by rolling the latter the dough will fold
loosely around it ; after sprinkling the board with flour.
PIES. 393
the dough can be unrolled. This is a better plan than
turning it with the hands, as it should be handled as little
as possible. After the paste has been folded the last
time, put it on a platter, cover, and place it on the ice for
half an hour, or until it is thoroughly chilled ; then roll it
out for instant use ; or, if it be not required for immediate
baking, it may be kept in a half-frozen state for two or
three days. Firm, solid butter should be selected for
puff-paste, and a cold place should be chosen for the
work. Even in winter it is wise to make it by an open
window.
TO BAKE PUFF-PASTE.
A most important factor in the making of puff-paste is
having the oven at exactly the proper temperature, for
even if the very best materials have been selected and
have been mixed exactly as directed, the paste will be a
failure if placed in an oven that is not rightly heated.
The paste should be ice -cold when put into the oven,
which should be very hot (at least as high as 460 Fahren-
heit, if a thermometer is used).
For patties the oven should have a strong underheat,
allowing them to rise to their full height before browning.
If the oven should be too hot, so that the paste begins to
brown as soon as put in, immediately reduce the tempera-
ture by opening the draughts of the stove, and placing in
the oven a small basin of ice-water.
HOW TO SHAPE PUFF-PASTE.
For Pies with Two Crusts. Roll the paste out a-quar-
ter of an inch thick, then roll it up, and cut a piece from
the end of the roll. Turn the portion thus cut off on the
394 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
side, pat it out flat, and roll to fit the plate. Keep the
paste in a circular form, and roll evenly in every direc-
tion. Make it slightly larger than the plate, as the paste
shrinks \tfhen taken from the board, and should be fulled
in rather than stretched to the required size. When the
paste is fitted, cut around the edge with a sharp knife
dipped in flour. Roll some of the paste, and cut it into
strips three-quarters of an inch wide ; then wet the under-
crust, and place the rim on the edge. Fill the plate with
the material to be use<^. Roll the upper-crust larger
than the plate, make a cut in the center to let the steam
of baking escape, wet the rim on the pie, and put on the
upper-crust with its edge even with the rim, having this
crust slightly full in the center to allow for its shrinking
in baking; otherwise the crust, as it is forced up by the
steam within, will be drawn away from the edge. Press
the rim and edge closely but lightly together to keep the
juices from boiling out.
For Pies with One Crust. The following directions
apply to squash, pumpkin and custard pies. Butter the
plate lightly or sprinkle it with a light dusting of flour.
Roll the paste a little larger than the plate, and an-eighth
of an inch thick. Cover the plate with this sheet, being
careful not ta shut in any air between the paste and the
plate ; the paste should hang about half an inch over the
edge of the plate. Roll the edge up until it rests on
the edge of the plate, the rolled part being underneath ;
there will then be a thick edge all round the plate.
Pinch this with the thumb and forefinger until a thin
scalloped " wall " is formed. It is always wise to build a
wall like this, because plates are not made deep enough
for these pies to be made of the desired thickness.
PIES. 395
For Patties. Roll the paste a-quarter of an inch thick,
and cut it out with a circular cutter at least two inches
and a-half in diameter. With a cutter an inch and a-half
in diameter, stamp out the centers from half of the cir-
cular portions, thus leaving rings of paste half an inch
wide. Dip the cutters in hot water and cut quickly, that
the edges of the paste may not be pressed together or
cut unevenly. Rub a little white of egg in the large
rounds near the edge, put on the rings, and press them
lightly to make them adhere, being very careful, however,
not to get any of the egg on the edges, as that would
prevent the patties rising. Put a round piece of stale
bread cut half an inch thick in the center of each patty,
to keep the paste from rising* and filling the. cavity.
Bake in shallow pans lined with paper, and when done,
remove the bread and the soft paste underneath. Bake
the small pieces cut from the centers on a pan by them-
selves, as they .require less time for baking. In servini;
place one o^these pieces on top of each patty or shell, for
a cover. Any kind of delicate cooked meat or fish such
as chickens, sweetbreads, oysters or lobsters, may be cut
in small pieces, warmed in thick cream sauce and served
as an entree in hot patty shells, with a cover of the paste.
Two or three rings may be put on when a deeper shell is
desired.
Tarts. For these the paste is rolled thinner than for
patties, being not more than an-eighth of an inch thick ;
and it is usually cut with a fluted cutter. The shapes are
filled, when cold, with jelly or preserves, and a cover of
paste is not used.
Tart Wells. Cut the rounds of paste with three or
four cutters of different sizes. Use the largest portion
396 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
for the bottom ; cut the centers from the others, leaving
the rims of different widths, and pile the latter on the
whole round, with the narrowest rim at the top. Bake
and fill with jelly.
Vol-au-vents. Roll the paste half an inch thick, and
for a large vol-au-vent make it nine inches in diameter.
Mark the outline with an oval mold or pan, and put on
two or three rings, wetting the edge of each with white of
egg. Make an oval hoop of stiff paper two inches high
and slightly larger than the vol-au-vent, and place it
around the latter to prevent scorching. Bake this size at
least an hour. These cases are used in the same manner
as patties.
Rissoles. Roll the paste thin, and cut it out with a
four-inch fluted patty-cutter. Put a generous tea-spoonful
of cold chicken or whatever is to be used in the rissoles
in the center of each round. Wet the edges with white of
egg, fold the paste over and press the edges together.
Glaze with beaten egg, and fry in hot lard, or bake.
PLAIN PASTE WITH BUTTER.
The following quantity will be sufficient for one pie
having an upper and an under crust :
Two cupfuls of sifted flour.
Two-thirds of a cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of ice-water.
One tea-spoonful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
As in puff-paste, have everything as cold as possible ;
and in warm weather place the butter and flour in the
refrigerator for several hours before using them. Sift
PIES. 397
the flour, measure it, and put it in a large mixing-bowl ;
add the salt and sugar, and then place the butter in the
center of the flour, and with a sharp knife cut it quickly
into small pieces, at the same time mixing it with the
flour. Now gradually add the ice-water; lift with the
knife that portion of the flour which has been moistened
first, push it to one side of the bowl, wet another portion,
and so continue until all is moistened. Add the water
very carefully, wetting only the dry flour and never stirring
twice in the same place. Then cut and mix all together
until the mixture can be lifted from the bowl with the
knife. Dredge the baking-board lightly with flour, and
roll the paste lightly and quickly away from you into a
long, thin sheet. Fold first the sides and then the ends,
turn the paste around and roll it from you again ; then
fold it and stand it on the ice until wanted. In order to
make this paste a perfect success the materials should be
very cold, the mixing and rolling should be quickly done,
and as little flour as possible should be used in finishing.
CHOPPED PUFF-PASTE.
This paste is quickly made and is very satisfactory,
although not so light or delicate as genuine puff-paste.
Two cupfuls of sifted flour.
One-half table-spoonful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One cupful of butter.
One-quarter cupful of ice-water.
One egg.
One-half table-spoonful of lemon-juice.
Beat the egg very light, and add to it the water and
the lemon-juice. Chop the butter and the flour together,
398 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
until the butter is reduced to lumps the size of a pea ; then
gradually add the egg and water, chopping all the time.
When all the wetting has been used, sp'rinkle the mold-
ing-board with flour, and turn the paste upon it. Roll
and fold the same as puff-paste, repeating the process
three or four times ; then set the paste on the ice, and
when cold, use like puff-paste. This paste may be used
without chilling, but will not be so light.
PLAIN PASTE WITH LARD.
Many housekeepers always use lard for pastry instead
of butter, simply because it is cheaper. It makes a crust
that is more brittle and also more greasy, and there is no
doubt but that it is more indigestible than the light, flaky,
tender crust made with good, sweet butter. For one pie
with two crusts allow,
Two cupfuls of sifted flour.
One-half cupful of lard.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half cupful (scant) of ice- water.
Make and roll the same as directed for " Plain Paste
with Butter."
APPLE PIE.
Any light, tart apples may be used for pies, but Green-
ings are always most satisfactory. Pare, quarter and core
the apples, slicing each one as it is finished into the pie-
plate or tin in which the pie is to be made, continuing to
slice until the plate is evenly full. In this way there will
not be more apples peeled than can be used. Turn the
sliced apple into a dish, and for one pie of ordinary size
add a cupful of sugar and half a tea-spoonful of cinna-
PIES. m 399
mon. Stir the apple with a spoon until each slice seems
to have its share of sugar and spice. Wipe the pie dish
dry, dust it lightly with flour, line it with good plain or
puff paste, put in the apples, and add two table-spoonfuls
of water. Cover the top as directed in " How to Shape
Puff Paste," and bake three-quarters of an hour in a
quick oven. When the pie is cold sprinkle the top
thickly with pulverized sugar, and serve.
AN APPLE TART.
Ten apples.
One-half a lemon (juice and rind).
One cupful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of butter.
Water.
Pare the apples, and from four of the largest and firm-
est extract the cores without breaking the apples. Place
these four in a small stew-pan with half the lemon-juice,
half the grated rind and half the sugar; nearly cover them
with water, and boil slowly until nearly done, keeping the
apples whole. Cut the remaining six apples into pieces,
and place them on the fire in a separate stew-pan with the
remainder of the lemon-juice, rind and sugar and a little
water. Boil them slowly to a regular apple-sauce or
marmalade, add the butter, and rub the whole through a
colander. Line the pie-plate with paste, fill the bottom
with the marmalade, and put in the whole apples, one in
each quarter of the pie, sinking them into the marmalade
and filling the cavities between them with the sauce.
Place two strips of crust half an inch wide across the pie,
thus separating the four apples; and bake in a quick
oven. This tart is very delicate served with cream.
4OO THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
LEMON PIE.
To make one pie, take
One large lemon.
I Two eggs.
One cupful of sugar.
One large cupful of water.
Grate the rind from the lemon, and add it and the
juice to the sugar. Stir well, and add the water, and
the eggs, well beaten. Bake with an upper and under
crust for forty-five minutes.
LEMON CUSTARD PIE.
The following filling is sufficient for two pies.
Three eggs.
One large or two small lemons.
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of water.
One and a-half cupful of milk.
One table-spoonful of melted butter.
Separate the yolks of the eggs from the whites ; rub
the sugar and the yolks to a cream, and add the water
and then the milk. Stir all well together, and put in the
melted butter, and when everything is ready to put the
filling in the crust add the lemon-juice and the grated
rind. If added in this way, the acid will not break the
milk. Bake three-quarters of an hour. Whip the whites
to a stiff froth, add a table-spoonful of sugar, spread this
mixture on top of the pies, when baked, return them to
the oven, and brown the whites lightly. These pies are
to be eaten cold.
PIES. 401
LEMON PIE WITH BREAD.
The following is a most reliable recipe and will make
one pie. Only one crust is used :
One lemon.
One large pint of bread-crumbs.
One-table-spoonful of melted butter.
One cupful of sugar.
Two eggs.
Cold water.
The bread should not be hard, the crusts not being
available for this filling. Put the crumbs, which should
be half the size of a nutmeg, in a quart cup, measuring a
full pint ; add the lemon-juice, half the grated rind, the
sugar, and the yolks of the eggs, well beaten ; and turn
into the cup sufficient water to make the whole measure
just a pint and a-half. Stir well, and let the mixture
stand in the cup while the plate is being lined with paste ;
then stir well again, mashing the bread fine. If the
bread does not seem entirely soft, do not add the filling
to the crust, but let it stand a few minutes longer; -this,
however, will rarely be necessary. Just before putting
the filling into the crust add the melted butter ; then
bake about thirty-five minutes in a quick oven. Beat the
whites of the eggs stiff, add a small table-spoonful of
sugar, spread this froth on top of the pie when baked,
return the pie to the oven, and quickly brown it. Serve
cold.
LEMON PIE WITH CORN-STARCH.
This is baked with one crust. To make one pie, allow
26
4O2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
One lemon.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One and a-half table-spoonful of corn-starch.
One cupful of water. .
One egg (white only).
Sugar to taste.
Wet the corn-starch in a little of the water, and place
the rest of the water over the fire in a saucepan ; and
when the latter boils stir into it the wet corn-starch, and
boil a minute after it thickens. Add the butter, and
set the mixture aside to cool. Line a pie-plate with
paste ; and when the filling has cooled add to it the
lemon-juice, the grated rind, and sugar to sweeten. Beat
the mixture well, turn it into the crust, and bake about
twenty minutes in a very quick oven. When done,
spread over the top of the pie the beaten white of egg,
sweetened with a tea-spoonful of sugar and flavored with
a little lemon extract. Brown the meringue, and serve
the pie cold.
PUMPKIN PIE.
Cut the pumpkin into long strips, remove the soft pulp
and seeds, pare the strips, and cut them into small pieces.
Place the pumpkin in a kettle with a very little water,
cover the kettle tightly, and stew slowly, stirring up
frequently from the bottom and adding a little more
water, if the pumpkin seems in danger of becoming too
thick, but always remenjjpering that the less water is used
the finer will be the quality of the pies. It will take at
least six hours to stew a pumpkin until soft enough to use.
If the pumpkin seems at all watery when done, set the
kettle on a hot paii, of the stove, and stir constantly
PIES. 403
uncovered ; it will soon dry sufficiently. Lift the pump-
kin from the kettle into a colander or a rather coarse
sieve, and pulp it through. It will then be ready to use.
This part of the work should obviously be done the day
before the pies are to be made. The quantities given
below will make three good, deep pies.
One quart of stewed pumpkin.
Three pints of milk.
Six eggs.
One table-spoonful of salt.
One and a-half table-spoonful of ginger.
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One cupful of sugar.
Beat the eggs very light, add them to the pumpkin, and
stir until the mixture is creamy ; then add the salt, sugar,
cinnamon and ginger. Stir thoroughly, and when the
mass is well mixed add the milk, a little at a time.
Taste the mixture, and add more sugar and spice if
needed. Line three pie-tins, divide the filling among
them r stirring it all the time it is being poured into the
plates ; and bake half an hour in a quick oven. Do not
be afraid to use the quantity of ginger given, for much of
its strength is evaporated in the baking. This is a very
reliable recipe and will produce most delicious pies.
SQUASH PIE.
The yellow, hard-shelled squash makes almost as good
pies as pumpkin, and it is often obtainable when pump-
kin is not. Squash pie is made by the preceding recipe ;
but the squash will stew sufficiently in an hour or even
a little less, and care must be taken that it is very dry
before being removed from the fire.
404 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
CREAM PIE.
For one pie, use,
One pint of milk.
Two even table-spoonfuls of corn-starch.
Two eggs.
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of butter.
Vanilla to flavor.
Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, beat the
yolks light, and add to them a little of the cold milk.
Place the corn-starch in a tea-cup, add just enough of the
cold milk to thoroughly wet the starch, and stir until
smooth. Place the rest of the milk over the fire either in
a double boiler or in a saucepan set in another pan con-
taining boiling water. Put the corn-starch mixture and
the egg mixture together, stir well, and when the milk is
boiling add the mixture to it. Stir until the liquid
thickens, add the sugar, salt and butter, and cook three
or four minutes. Remove from the fire, and when par-
tially cold add sufficient vanilla to flavor. Line a pie-
tin with paste, pierce the paste in three or four places
with a steel fork, and bake without any filling in a very
quick oven. The holes pierced in the crust will prevent
it puffing in the center. When the crust is done, which
should take ten minutes, remove it from the oven, let
it cool a little, and M. it has been baked in a tin, slip
it out upon a dinner plate ; then fill the crust with the
cream filling. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff
froth, add to them a table-spoonful of sugar and a little
of the flavoring, and spread them on top of the cream.
PIES. 405
Sprinkle the top lightly with cocoanut and brown in the
oven. The cocoanut may be omitted, but it adds much
to the flavor of the meringue. Serve cold.
CANNED PEACH MERINGUE PIE.
One tea-cupful of water.
One-half tea-cupful of sugar.
One-half tea-cupful of peach juice.
Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch.
One tea-spoonful of butter.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Two eggs.
Canned peaches.
Wet the corn-starch with a little of the water, beat the
yolks of the eggs lightly with the sugar, and add them to
the corn-starch. Place the rest of the water on the fire,
and when it boils stir in the corn-starch mixture, which
will thicken at once. Add the butter, salt, sugar and
peach juice, cook two minutes and remove from the fire.
Line a plate with paste, cover the bottom with a layer of
canned peaches, turn in the cooked mixture, and bake.
When done, spread over the top of the pie the beaten
whites of the eggs sweetened with a tea-spoonful of sugar ;
and brown lightly. Fresh peaches may be used in the
same way, water being substituted for the peach juice.
CHOCOLATE PIE.
One coffee-cupful of milk.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Vanilla to flavor.
Two table- spoonfuls of grated chocolate.
Three eggs.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
406 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Beat the yolks of the eggs light, and add to them two
table-spoonfuls of the milk. Heat the chocolate and the
rest of the milk together, put in the salt and sugar, and
when scalding hot add the yolks of the eggs. Let the
mixture cook two minutes, remove it from the fire, and
when partly cooled, add the flavoring. Line a pie-plate
with crust, turn in the filling, and bake twenty minutes in
a quick oven. Beat the whites of the eggs very light,
sweeten with a table-spoonful of sugar, and spread them
over the pie ; then brown the egg slightly, and serve
cold.
CUSTARD PIE.
For one thick pie allow,
Two eggs.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Milk.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
Beat the whites and the yolks of the eggs well together.
Stir the spice and salt into the sugar, place the sugar and
eggs in a quart cup, and add milk sufficient to make the
whole measure a pint and a-half. Taste, and add more
sugar if needed. Line a plate with crust, stir the mix-
ture well, pour it in, and bake about forty-five minutes in
a moderately hot oven. There should not be enough
heat to cause the custard to boil, for this will make it
appear watery and very uninviting; the oven should, in
fact, be a little more moderate than for most pies. At
the end of the time insert the point of a knife in the cus-
PIES. 4O7
tard, and if it comes out clear (not milky), the pie is
done. If the spice is well stirred into the sugar, it will
be distributed evenly through the milk and will not ac-
cumulate in an unsightly manner on top of the custard.
Do not cut the pie until quite cold.
CHERRY PIE.
The common red or morella cherries are the best for
pies. Stone the cherries, line deep pie-plates with good
plain paste, nearly fill them with the cherries, sprinkle
four large table-spoonfuls of sugar over each pie, and
dredge lightly with flour. Cover each pie with an upper
crust, which should be rolled as thin as possible ; make
a vent in the center, and press the edges lightly together
so the juices will not escape during the baking. Serve
the pies the same day they are baked, else the under-
crust will become heavy. Sprinkle powdered sugar over
each pie just before sending to table.
COCOANUT CUSTARD PIE.
Two eggs.
One pint of milk.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
One-half cupful of sugar.
One cupful of prepared cocoanut.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
Beat the eggs and sugar together until light ; then add
the milk, nutmeg, cocoanut and salt. Line a deep pie-
dish with crust, pour the mixture in, stirring well, and
bake thirty minutes. The above quantities will make
one thick pie or two rather thin ones.
408 'THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
HUCKLEBERRY PIE.
Select the pie-tins that are to be used, and fill them
evenly with berries, to determine how many will be
required. Throw the berries into a pan, look them over
carefully, remove all the stems, and wash the berries.
Drain off all the water from them, but do not dry them in
a towel. Wipe the pie-dishes clean, dust a little flour in
the bottom of each, line them with paste, following care-
fully the directions previously given. When ready for
the berries drain them once more, and sift flour over
them until each berry becomes a little white ball, but
taking care to leave no surplus flour in the bottom of the
pan containing the berries. Allow a scanty cupful of
sugar to each pie, stir it well into the fruit, and turn the
latter into the pie-plates. Cover each pie with an upper
crust, and press the edges well together, for much of the
richness of the berries will be lost if the juice escapes
in baking. Bake an hour, and serve cold,, with sugar
sifted over the top. Flouring the berries in this way,
while still a little wet from the washing, will make just
enough thickening to counteract the excessive amount of
juice these berries are capable of giving off.
BLACKBERRY PIE.
Look the berries carefully over, place them in the pie-
tin (which has previously been fitted with an under-crust),
add half a cupful of sugar and a table-spoonful of water,
and place a thick dusting of flour on the top. Cover
with an upper crust and bake an hour. Currants
mixed with blackberries also make a delicious pie,
three times as many blackberries being used as cur-
PIES, 409
rants. Sweeten with a cupful of sugar, if currants are
used.
RHUBARB PIE (PIE-PLANl).
Peel or string the rhubarb by breaking a piece off each
stem end and stripping down the thin skin that will be
found clinging to the broken portion. Break the rhubarb
into small pieces, and measure it in a pie-dish to ascer-
tain the quantity needed. Place the pieces in a pan,
flour them until they are quite white and add a cupful of
sugar to each pie. Line a pie-dish, put in the rhubarb,
with the sugar well stirred into it, cover with the upper-
crust, and bake an hour. Serve cold, sprinkling pow-
dered sugar on top.
DELICATE PUFF PIE.
The following will make two pies :
Five eggs.
One cupful of sugar.
Three-quarters of a cupful of butter.
Vanilla flavoring.
Separate the whites and the yolks of the eggs, beat the
yolks and sugar together until they form a cream, beat
the butter until it also is a creamy froth, and quickly mix
the butter in with the yolks and sugar, stirring well and
adding flavoring to taste. Have pie-plates ready lined
with paste, turn in the mixture, and bake. The pies will
rise very light. When they are done have ready the
beaten whites of the eggs, add to them two table-spoon-
fuls of sugar and a few drops of the flavoring, and spread
them over the top of the pies ; then return the pies to the
oven and brown delicately. This pie should be cut while
410 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
hot and distributed on the serving plates, but it is not to
be eaten until cold. Strange as it may seem, it will fall if
allowed to cool before being cut.
MINCE MEAT.
Two pounds of lean beef.
One pound of beef suet.
Five pounds of apples.
Two pounds of layer raisins.
Two pounds of Sultana raisins.
One-half pound of candied lemon peel.
Two pounds of currants.
Three-quarters pound of citron.
Two and a-half pounds of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of salt.
One-half ounce of cinnamon.
One-quarter ounce of mace.
One-quarter ounce of cloves.
One-quarter ounce of allspice.
Two nutmegs, grated.
Two oranges, juice and rind.
Two lemons, juice and rind.
One pint of sherry.
One pint of brandy.
One quart of cider.
Free the beef of fat and skin, cover it with boiling
water and simmer gently until tender. Let the meat cool
in the water in which it was boiled, and when perfectly
cold chop it fine, but not to a powder. Shred the suet
and chop it fine ; pare, core and chop the apples
rather coarsely. The apples should be of a fine flavor
and tart. Wash and stone the layer raisins ; wash and
pick over the Sultanas. Shred the citron and the can
died lemon peel ; wash the currants well, and grate the
PIES. 411
rind from the oranges and lemons. Mix all the dry in-
gredients with the meat and suet, and add the juice and
gratings from the lemons and oranges. Stir all well
together, pack the mass in a stone jar, pour over it the
brandy, wine and cider, cover closely, and stand the jar
in a cool place.
Mince meat made in this way will keep all winter.
The above ingredients will make a large quantity. If
there is an objection to brandy, use a pint and a-half
more of cider instead. Mince meat improves with keep-
ing, and it should be made at least a fortnight before it is
to be used. Bake the pies an hour. If the meat be-
comes dry before it is all used, add more cider or wine.
INEXPENSIVE MINCE MEAT.
Four pounds of beef.
Three quarts of chopped apples.
One quart of stoned raisins.
One quart of English currants.
One quart of molasses
One pint of suet.
Three pints of sugar.
One-half cupful of salt.
One-half cupful of cinnamon.
One table-spoonful of cloves.
Two tr.ble-spoonfuls of allspice.
Two table-spoonfuls of mace.
Three nutmegs, grated.
Three quarts of cider.
One-quarter pound of citron.
Boil and chop the beef as in the preceding recipe.
Mix together all the ingredients, except the cider, mixing
with the hands. When the whole is thoroughly stirred
add the cider. Let the mince meat stand over night ;
4 1 2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
in the morning place it in a porcelain kettle, heat slowly
to the boiling point, and simmer an hour. Then turn
it into a stone jar and set it in a cool, dry place. If de-
sired, wine and brandy may now be stirred in, or they may
be added when the pies are made ; but the meat will be
good without either. This mince meat will keep three
months in ordinary jars, even if there is no wine or
brandy used.
Mince pies are always better baked several days before
they are to be served. Heat them, and serve.
MOCK MINCE MEAT.
Six soda crackers, rolled fine.
Two cupfuls of cold water.
One cupful of molasses.
One cupful of brown sugar.
One cupful of sour cider.
One and one-half cupful of melted butter.
One cupful of raisins, seeded and chopped.
One cupful of raisins, unseeded.
One cupful of currants.
Two eggs.
One table-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-half table-spoonful of allspice
One tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
One tea-spoonful of cloves.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of black pepper.
One wine-glassful of brandy.
Mix all well together, adding the wetting last the
water, molasses, cider, brandy and eggs. This makes a
good mince meat for those who find the ordinary variety
too rich.
PUDDINGS.
" The proof of the pudding lies in the eating."
IN arranging for a dinner it is wise to always plan for a
dessert. Many housekeepers look upon this course in
the light of a luxury, but in that they surely err. The
majority of people, and more especially the young, should
eat plenty of food containing starch and sugar. Even for
the poor a simple dessert is an economy, for when none
is provided, a greater quantity of meat and vegetables
must be eaten to satisfy hunger. When the meal is a
very substantial one, a light dessert is most appropriate,
but when the dinner is light, and particularly in case cold
meat is served, the dessert should be hearty and served
hot.
Puddings made of milk and eggs, in combination with
rice, tapioca, sago or corn-starch, are the cheapest and
most wholesome, and are highly appetizing to most
tastes when nicely prepared and well cooked. In many
of the pudding recipes presented in the following pages,
the number of persons the given quantity will serve is
specified. These calculations are based on the premise
that the dessert is not intended to form a large propor-
tion of the dinner, and hence that only a moderate por-
tion need be allotted to each person at table. It would
4*3 .
414 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
be well if housewives would discourage an undue ambition
on the part of the male members of the family when
dessert is served ; and thus inaugurate a reform that
is greatly needed in many households. A number of des-
serts are here given that may be prepared the day before
they are needed, and these will be especially acceptable
to the busy housekeeper who has to prepare the Sunday
dessert on Saturday.
CHOCOLATE BLANC-MANGE.
The following quantity is sufficient for six persons, for
this dessert is quite rich.
One quart of milk.
One table-spoonful of vanilla.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
Two-thirds cupful of chocolate (grated).
One-half box of gelatine.
One-half cupful of cold water.
Grate the chocolate, stir it into the milk, and place the
latter in a double boiler, or in a pail set in a kettle of hot
water. Cover tightly and boil one hour, stirring often to
dislodge the chocolate as it rises to the surface of the
milk. Turn the entire box of gelatine out upon a plate,
and divide it very accurately in half. This is necessary,
as gelatine packs very solidly, and it cannot be properly
measured while in the box. Place the gelatine in the
water to melt, and set it in a warm place on the range
for fifteen minutes. When the milk and chocolate have
boiled an hour, add the dissolved gelatine and the sugar,
and cook five minutes longer, stirring two or three times.
Then remove the mixture from the fire, and strain
PUDDINGS.
it through a fine wire sieve into an earthern mold that
has been wet with cold water ; and when nearly cold, add
the vanilla. An oily substance will rise to the top, and
this must be carefully skimmed off two or three times
during the next hour. When the oil has ceased to rise,
set the pudding in a cool place over night ; if it is sum-
mer, set the dish in the ice-chest. When ready to serve,
turn the blanc-mange out on a small platter, and send to
table with a
MILK SAUCE.
One pint of milk.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One-half table-spoonful of vanilla.
Mix the ingredients, stirring well to dissolve the sugar.
This pudding maybe made in the morning when dinner
is served at night, but to insure its being firm by dinner
time, set it at once on the ice. Gelatine hardens quite
slowly, requiring six or eight hours to become properly
firm.
GELATINE PUDDING.
The quantity given below will make enough for five
persons.
One-half box of gelatine.
One-half pint of cold water
One-half pint of boiling water.
One tea-cupful of sugar.
Two small lemons.
Two eggs (whites).
Place the gelatine in a quart cup, pour over it the cold
water, and after it has stood five minutes, add the boiling
4 1 6 7^^ />^ TTERN COOK-BOOK.
water. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved, setting it in a
warm place. If the gelatine is still undissolved, let it
stand on the back of the range for ten minutes after add-
ing the hot water. Remove from the range, add the
sugar, and when the mixture is lukewarm, add the juice
of the lemons ; no pains need be taken to keep out the
seeds, for all has to be strained. If the mixture in the
cup does not now measure a pint and a-half, add enough
cold water to bring it to that measurement : then strain
through a fine sieve into a large pitcher or earthernware
bowl. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and
stir them into the gelatine, beating well. The pitcher
will be found the most convenient receptacle in which to
beat the pudding. Pour the whole into a pretty glass
serving dish, and set it in the ice-chest to remain over
night. The egg will rise and settle evenly upon the top of
the pudding.
Beat the yolks of the eggs a moment, add two table-
spoonfuls of milk or water to them, and set them in a
cool place to be used the next day in making the
CUSTARD SAUCE.
One pint of milk.
Two eggs (yolks).
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One tea-spoonful of corn-starch.
Wet the corn-starch in a little of the milk, and add to
it the beaten yolks. Place the rest of the milk in a
double boiler to heat, and when scalding stir in the mix-
ture of egg and corn-starch. Let the whole boil only
PUDDINGS. 417
about one minute after it thickens, and add the sugar and
salt. Remove from the fire, and when the sauce is cold
put in the vanilla, and set on the ice until needed. If
the eggs are large, the corn-starch will not be needed ; or
three yolks may be used for the custard, omitting the
corn-starch in this case. In serving, pour a portion of
the sauce around the pudding as it is placed on each
dessert plate, but do not pour it on top.
This dessert is easily and quickly made, the pud-
ding itself really not requiring fire if hot water is at
hand.
CHOCOLATE CORN-STARCH.
This pudding is to be eaten cold, and the following
quantities will suffice for six persons.
One pint of milk.
One table-spoonful of corn-starch.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two eggs (yolks).
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One-half tea-spoonful of butter.
Beat the yolks of the eggs, and add to them a little of
the milk ; then wet the corn-starch with a small quantity
of the milk, and stir the two mixtures together. Place
the rest of the milk on the fire in a milk-boiler, and
when boiling, stir in the corn-starch, eggs, etc. Let the
whole cook five minutes, add the salt, sugar and butter,
and remove from the fire ; pour the pudding into a pud-
ding dish, and when partly cooled, add the flavoring, stir-
ring it in well.
27
418 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE.
One-half cupful of milk.
One-half cupful of grated chocolate.
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One table spoonful of vanilla.
Two eggs (whites).
Place the milk and chocolate together in a small sauce-
pan set in another containing hot water, and cook until
the chocolate is smooth and thick generally about five
minutes stirring all the time. Add the sugar, remove
from the fire, stir until cooled and put in the vanilla.
Spread the chocolate mixture carefully, a spoonful at a
time, over the corn-starch in the dish. Beat the whites
of the eggs stiff, add one table-spoonful of sugar and two
or three drops of vanilla, spread this icing on top of the
chocolate, and brown delicately in the oven.
This pudding should be in three layers when finished,
first the corn-starch, then the chocolate, and then the
browned whites of the eggs, which are called the
meringue. It does not require sauce, and will be found
a very dainty dessert by those who are fond of chocolate.
ORANGE PUDDING.
This pudding is to be served cold without sauce, and
the following ingredients are sufficient for six persons.
Three oranges.
One-half a lemon (juice).
One pint of milk.
One table-spoonful of corn-starch.
One cupful of sugar.
Two eggs.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
PUDDINGS. 419
Peel the oranges, removing all the tough white skin ;
and cut them into pieces half the size of a nutmeg, tak-
ing out the tough portion in the center. Place the
oranges in a pudding-dish, squeeze the lemon-juice over
them, add half a cupful of the sugar, stir up, and let the
whole stand while the rest of the pudding is being pre-
pared. Beat the yolks of the eggs, stir in two tea-spoon-
fuls of milk, add the same quantity of milk to the
corn-starch, and beat these two mixtures together. Heat
the rest of the milk in a milk-boiler, and when boiling,
add the eggs, corn-starch, etc. Cook five minutes, add
the salt and the rest of the sugar, remove from the fire,
and lay the mixture a spoonful at a time on top of the
oranges in the dish. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff,
add to them a table-spoonful of sugar, spread the icing
on top of the pudding, and brown it delicately in the
oven. This pudding should not be made over night, as
the oranges would in that time give off too much of their
juice.
BAKED LEMON PUDDING.
One pint of milk.
Two eggs.
One lemon (juice, and half the rind).
One cupful of bread-crumbs.
One-quarter cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk for half an hour.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the beaten
yolks of the eggs, stir well, and put in the bread and
milk, the lemon-juice and half the grated rind. Butter a
pudding-dish, turn in the mixture, and bake slowly for
420 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
twenty minutes. Beat the whites stiff, add to them one
table-spoonful of sugar, spread them on top of the baked
pudding, and brown the surface delicately. Serve cold
without sauce.
ESTELLA PUDDING.
The following is sufficient for eight persons, being
served hot.
Three eggs.
Two and one-half table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Three-quarters cupful of sweet milk.
One cupful of raisins.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder.
One-half teaspoonful of salt.
Flour to thicken.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs,
well beaten, stir thoroughly, and put in the milk and salt.
Seed the raisins, and chop them coarsely, cutting each
raisin in only about four pieces. Scatter the baking-
powder on top of the mixture, add a little flour, stirring it
in well, and then add enough more flour to make a rather
thick batter; lastly stir in the raisins. Butter a tin basin
or a pudding-mold, turn in the pudding, set the vessel in
a steamer over a kettle of boiling hot water, and steam
forty-five minutes. Serve with a sauce made of one pint
of milk, sweetened to taste and flavored with vanilla.
TAPIOCA PUDDING.
This is to be eaten hot without sauce. For five per-
sons allow
PUDDINGS. 42 1
One egg.
One pint of milk.
One-half cupful of pearl tapioca.
One-half cupful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of butter.
( hie-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter teaspoonful of cinnamon.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
Wash the tapioca, and soak it over night in enough
water to cover it. In the morning add the milk, and
place the tapioca on the back of the range to soak one
hour, but do not let the milk boil : then add the beaten
egg and the sugar, spice, salt and butter. Bake an hour
in a moderate oven.
SIMPLE CORN-STARCH BLANC-MANGE.
This is an especially wholesome dessert for little chil-
dren. To make enough for five persons, allow
One pint of milk.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Wet the corn-starch in half a cupful of the milk ; then
heat the rest of the milk in a milk-boiler, and when it is
boiling, add the corn-starch. Cook eight or ten minutes,
and then put in the salt, and sugar. Remove from the
fire, and when partly cooled, add the vanilla. Turn the
mixture into a pudding-dish, that has been previously wet
with cold water, and set it away in a cold place. When
cold and firm, turn it out of the dish, and serve with it a
cream sauce or a
422 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK'.
CHOCOLATE SAUCE.
One-half cupful of grated chocolate.
One-half cupful of milk.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
Boil the milk and chocolate together until they form a
smooth paste, them add the sugar, and lastly the vanilla
when the whole has cooled. This pudding is also deli-
cious served alone with strawberries and sugar.
COCOANUT PUDDING.
The quantity given below will serve five persons. The
pudding is eaten hot, without sauce
One-half cupful of cocoanut.
One-half cupful of bread-crumbs.
One pint of milk.
One egg.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Soak the bread and cocoanut in the milk for three
hours ; then mash the bread fine, and add the sugar, salt
and melted butter. Beat the white and yolks of the egg
separately, and add first the yolk and then the white,
stirring well. Bake half an hour.
BOILED RICE PUDDING.
This is a very creamy pudding and is served cold.
For five persons allow as follows :
One and one-half tea-cupfuls of boiled rice.
Two-thirds of a tea-cupful of raisins.
PUDDINGS. 423
Two eggs.
One-half tea-cupful of sugar.
One pint of milk.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, add to the
yolks two table-spoonfuls of the milk, and place the rest
of the milk on the fire in a double boiler. Wash and
stone the raisins (or they may be left unseeded if
desired,) put them in the milk, and cook them until soft
and tender usually fifteen minutes. Add the rice, cook
five minutes longer, and then stir in the yolks of the eggs
and the salt, sugar and spice. Stir well, cook two or
three minutes, remove from the fire, and pour the pud-
ding into the serving dish. Beat the whites of the eggs
light, add to them one table-spoonful of sugar, spread the
froth on top of the pudding, and brown delicately in the
oven.
BAKED APPLE PUDDING.
This is served cold without sauce. The following
quantity will provide for six persons. The apples
should be quite tart.
Six good-sized apples.
Two eggs.
One pint of milk;
One-half cupful of water.
Twelve tea-spoonfuls of sugar.
One and one-half tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon.
One and one-half tea-spoonfuls of butter.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
Pare the apples, carefully extract the cores from the
424 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
stem-end, and place in each cavity thus made two tea-
spoonfuls of sugar, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cin-
namon and the same of butter, putting the butter on the
top. Set the apples in a baking-dish, add the water, and
bake until tender. Do not bake them until -they break,
as that would spoil the attractiveness of the pudding.
While the apples are baking, prepare the rest of the pud-
ding. Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, add to
the yolks a table-spoonful of the cold milk, place the rest
of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and when it
boils, add the yolks. Cook only a minute after the milk
boils again, then add the salt, and sugar to taste. Remove
from the fire, and when nearly cold, add the vanilla. As
soon as the apples are done, pour this custard around
them. Should there, seem to be an excess of juice from
baking the apples, drain off nearly all of it before adding
the custard. If left in the dish it will make the custard
too thin. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add one
table-spoonful of sugar, place a table-spoonful of the white
on top of each apple, return to the oven, and brown
lightly.
BAKED INDIAN PUDDING
One cupful of Indian meal.
One cupful of molasses.
One-half cupful of raisins.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One quart of milk.
One egg.
One-half tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-half tea-spoonful of ginger.
Place the milk in a double-boiler, and when scalding
hot, add the meal, stirring constantly until there are no
PUDDINGS. 425
lumps. Cook twenty minutes, and turn into a pudding-
dish; then add the rest of the ingredients, except the egg.
Stir well, and when cooled, add the beaten egg. Bake
an hour in a rather slow oven, and serve hot.
SUET PUDDING.
The following recipe makes a pudding large enough
for ten persons; one-half will usually be sufficient for
one dessert. The portion left over will be equally good
when warmed again. It should be steamed for warming
over.
One cupful of chopped suet.
One cupful of raisins.
One cupful of molasses.
One cupful of milk (preferably sour).
Three cupf uls of sifted flour.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One tea-spoonful of cloves.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half a nutmeg (grated).
Chop the suet fine, and add to it the spice and salt.
Warm the molasses, add to it the soda, and when the lat-
ter is dissolved, turn the molasses over the dry mixture,
stir quickly, and put in the milk. Add the flour slowly as
it may not all be needed ; for flour varies so much that it
is always difficult to apportion it in any recipe. The
pudding should not be too thick ; when the track of the
mixing spoon, when turned quickly round in the batter,
disappears slowly, the batter is generally thick enough.
Butter a tin basin or a pudding-mold, pour the pudding
in. set the whole in a steamer, over a kettle of boiling
426 THE PA Tl^ERN COOK-BOOA'.
water, and steam for three hours. Serve with the follow-
ing
SNOW SAUCE.
One small cupful of sugar.
One large table-spoonful of butter.
One egg.
Three table-spoonfuls of hot water.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolk of
the egg, and stir well. Set the bowl containing the sauce
over the mouth of the tea-kettle, or stand it in a basin
of hot water ; add one table-spoonful of the hot water, stir
well, add another portion of the hot water, and finally
the third table-spoonful, allowing about a minute to
elapse between these additions. If the sugar is not by this
time entirely dissolved, leave the bowl in the steam of the
kettle or in the basin until the sauce is like a golden
syrup. Then remove it from the fire, and pour it into the
sauce boat. Beat the white of the egg stiff, lay it on top
of the sauce, and serve. The white should be stirred in
after the sauce is placed upon the table. This recipe is
infallible.
LEMON PUDDING.
This pudding is eaten cold, without sauce. For a fam-
ily of six allow
One cupful of sugar.
Two eggs.
Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch.
One pint of milk.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Two lemons (juice of both, and rind of one).
PUDDINGS. 427
Wet the corn-starch in a little of the milk, place the
rest of the milk on the fire in a milk boiler, and when it
boils, add the corn-starch. After this has boiled five min-
utes, add the butter, remove the corn-starch from the -fire,
and set it away to cool. . Beat the yolks of the eggs light,
stir in the sugar, mix very thoroughly, and add the lemon-
juice and the grated rind. Beat this mixture to a stiff
cream, and gradually slir it into the corn-starch, which
should be quite cool by this time. Stir well, and when
perfectly well mixed, pour the pudding into a buttered
pudding-dish, and bake slowly for half an hour. Beat the
whites of the eggs stiff, add to them one table-spoonful of
sugar, spread them on top of the pudding, and brown
nicely.
RICE PUDDING WITH LEMON.
One pint of cooked rice.
One pint of milk.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two tea-spoonfuls of corn-starch.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of butter.
Two eggs (whites).
Wet the corn-starch in a table-spoonful of the milk,
place the rice and the rest of the milk together in a
double-boiler, and boil them ten minutes ; then add the
corn-starch, cook five minutes more, and stir in the rest of
the ingredients, adding only half the sugar ; then turn the
whole into a pudding-dish. Beat the whites of the eggs
stiff, add the other half of the sugar, spread the
egg on top of the pudding, and brown nicely. Serve
with a
428 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
LEMON SAUCE.
Two eggs (yolks).
One cupful of sugar.
One large lemon, (juice and half the grated rind).
Beat the yolks well, add the sugar, and stir until
creamy ; then add the juice of the lemon and the grated
rind, stir thoroughly, and serve. Oranges may be used
in place of the lemons, and one orange with half a lemon
will also make a pleasing combination. This forms a
particularly pretty dessert, the pudding being very white
and the sauce a golden yellow.
CREAM TAPIOCA PUDDING.
The following recipe will make enough for seven per-
sons. The pudding is a most satisfactory one and is to
be eaten cold without sauce.
Three table-spoonfuls of pearl tapioca.
Three table-spoonfuls of prepared cocoanut.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One quart of milk.
Four eggs.
One cupful of sugar.
Soak the tapioca over night in enough water or milk to
cover it. In the morning place it in a milk boiler with
the quart of milk, and boil it half an hour. Beat the
yolks of the eggs, the sugar and the cocoanut well
together, add this mixture to the milk, and boil ten min-
utes longer ; then put in the salt, and pour the whole into
a pudding-dish. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add to
them a table-spoonful of sugar, spread them on top of the
PUDDINGS.
429
pudding, sprinkle a thin layer of cocoanut over the top
of the egg, and brown delicately in the oven.
BAKED BATTER PUDDING.
One pint of flour
One quart of milk.
Four eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Stir the flour into the milk, beat well, and when
smooth, add the beaten eggs and the salt. Butter a pud-
ding-dish, pour in the batter, bake one hour in a rather
hot oven, and serve immediately with
HARD SAUCE.
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of powdered sugar.
Flavoring to suit.
Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually add the
sugar. The flavoring may be of any preferred variety.
If wine is chosen, use three table-spoonfuls of it, beat-
ing it in gradually. If lemon or vanilla extract is
preferred add a scanty tea-spoonful ; or the rind and juice
of a fresh lemon may be used. As soon as the sauce is
finished heap it lightly and roughly on the dish in which
it is to be served, and set it in the ice chest until needed.
The pudding is sometimes spread with butter by each
person at table individually and eaten with lemon-juice
and sugar instead of a sauce.
CAKE CREAM PUDDING.
Three eggs.
One cupful of sugar.
430 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
One and one-half cupfuls of flour
Two table-spoonfuls of water
One-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
Stir the baking-powder into the flour; then beat the
eggs light, add to them first the water and sugar and then
the flour, and bake on two buttered pie-tins. When the
cakes are done split each with a fork, and place inside it
the following cream.
CREAM.
One pint of sweet milk.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-quarter cupful of butter.
Three-quarters cupful of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch
Wet the corn-starch in a little of the milk, add the but-
ter to the rest of the milk, and place the latter in the
milk boiler to heat ; and when the milk boils, stir in the
corn-starch. Cook five minutes, stirring frequently ; then
add the sugar and salt, and as soon as these are dissolved
remove the cream from the fire. When nearly cold add
the flavoring, and use. This dessert is delicious served
with strawberries.
BLACKBERRY PUDDING.
One pint of molasses.
One dessert-spoonful of soda.
One quart of flour.
One quart of blackberries.
Warm the molasses, dissolve the soda in it, and add the
flour first and then the berries. Butter a tin basin or a
PUDDINGS. 43 1
pudding-mould, pour the pudding in, set it in a steamer
over a kettle of boiling water, and steam one hour. Serve
with hard sauce. This pudding may be baked, if more
convenient, but it is much more satisfactory when
steamed as above.
SIMPLE FRUIT PUDDING.
Stew currants or any of the small fruits or berries,
either fresh or dried, with sugar to season. Cut bakers'
bread into thin slices, and remove the crusts ; then place
a layer of bread in a pudding-dish, cover it rather
thickly with the stewed fruit, add another layer of bread
and fruit, and so continue until all the latter has been
used, leaving an extra thick layer of fruit on the top.
Lay a plate on top of the pudding, and when the fruit is
cool, set the whole upon the ice. Serve thoroughly cold
with cream and sugar.
APPLE SNOW.
Six large apples.
Two tea-cupfuls of sugar.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One and a-half lemon (juice of both and rind of one).
One pint of milk.
Four eggs.
Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, beat the
yolks well, and add to them three table-spoonfuls of the
milk. Place the rest of the milk on the fire in a double-
boiler, and when it boils, add the beaten yolks. Let it
boil about a minute, add a tea-cupful of the sugar and the
salt, remove from the fire, and when cooled, pour the
custard into a glass serving-dish. Bake the apples quite
432 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
whole in a covered dish, adding a little water to prevent
burning. When tender enough to be pierced with a
straw, take them out of the oven, remove the skins, and
scrape out the pulp, being careful to avoid any pieces of
the cores. Mix into this pulp the remaining sugar, the
lemon-juice and the grated rind of one lemon. Beat the
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add the cold pulp
very gradually, beating until the whole is white and fine.
Pile this snow upon the custard, set in a very cold place,
and serve when thoroughly cold.
CURATE PUDDING. (Hot.}
Three eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
One cupful of flour.
Two-thirds cupful of butter.
Two-thirds cupful of sugar.
Warm the butter, and beat it to a cream ; then grad-
ually add the flour and sugar, and beat well until the
whole is perfectly smooth. Beat the eggs very light, and
add them and the vanilla, stirring all well. Butter small
cups or tins, fill them a little more than half full of the
mixture, and bake in a brisk oven for about half an hour.
When done, turn the puddings out upon the serving-dish,
and pour around them the following sauce.
WINE SAUCE, NO. I.
One and one-half table-spoonful of butter.
One table-spoonful of flour.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of sherry wine.
Hot water.
PUDDINGS, 433
Pour boiling water into a small earthenware bowl, let it
stand one minute, pour it out, and place the butter in the
hot bowl ; this will warm the butter sufficiently. Beat
the butter until soft, add the flour, and beat again until
a smooth, creamy paste is formed. Gradually add boil-
ing water, stirring all the time, until the whole is the
thickness of rich cream. Pour the mixture into a stew-
pan, stir well, and cook three minutes, adding a little
more water if the sauce is too thick. When done, add
the salt, sugar and wine, and serve. Taste the sauce
before serving, and add more sugar, wine or butter if not
sufficiently well seasoned.
FARINA PUDDING.
One quart of milk.
Three eggs.
One lemon (half the juice and all the rind).
One cupful of sugar.
Four table-spoonfuls of farina.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One-eighth tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
Heat the milk in a double-boiler, and when boiling,
add the farina, and boil half an hour. Just before remov-
ing it from the fire, put in the butter, stir it well, and
when it has melted, turn the mixture into a pudding-dish.
When cooled, add the sugar and vanilla, the grated rind
of the lemon, the juice and the nutmeg. Separate the
yolks and whites of the eggs, beat them thoroughly, and
add first the yolks, stirring them well into the pudding,
and then the beaten whites, stirring them in only enough
28
434 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
to mix them well. Bake the pudding half an hour in a
quick oven. Serve with the wine sauce of the preceding
recipe or with the following.
WINE SAUCE, NO. 2.
One cupful of butter.
Two cupfuls of powdered sugar.
Eight table-spoonfuls of sherry wine.
A grating of nutmeg.
Beat the butter until creamy, and gradually add the
sugar, stirring all the time ; when all the sugar has been
used, add the wine by spoonfuls, still stirring. Beat the
mixture until it becomes a smooth, light froth, set the bowl
in a basin of hot water, and stir for two minutes. Fill
the sauce-boat with boiling water to heat it, and when the
sauce has cooked sufficiently, empty the boat, pour in the
sauce, grate a bit of nutmeg on the top, and serve hot.
GRAHAM PUDDING.
One cupful of Graham flour.
One cupful of wheat flour.
One cupful of molasses.
One cupful of sweet milk.
One egg.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One cupful of raisins.
Warm the molasses, add the soda to it, and stir in the
two kinds of flour well sifted together ; then gradually
add the milk, then the egg well beaten, and lastly the
stoned raisins. Place the mixture in a buttered basin or
in a pudding-mould, set it in a steamer over a kettle of
hot water, and steam two hours. Serve with the following
PUDDINGS. ' 435
EGG SAUCE.
One cupful of powdered sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
Two eggs.
Flavoring.
Beat the butter to a cream, gradually add the sugar,
beating well, and lastly stir in the beaten eggs, and any
desired flavoring.
STRAWBERRY PUFF PUDDING.
This pudding is to be served hot. For six persons
allow
One pint of flour.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One quart of strawberries.
Sweet milk.
Sugar.
Stir the powder into the flour, and add milk, stirring
all the time until a rather thick batter is formed. Have
ready six well greased tea-cups, the hulled strawberries
and a cupful of sugar. Put a spoonful of the batter in a
cup, then a thick layer of berries, next two tea-spoon-
fuls of sugar upon the berries and finally another thin
layer of the batter. Repeat this until all the batter has
been used when the cups should not be more than two-
thirds full. Set them in a steamer over a kettle of boiling
water, and steam half an hour. There should be no
delay in serving as soon as done, for the puffs fall
very quickly. Serve with a
436 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
STRAWBERRY SAUCE.
Two eggs.
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of boiling milk.
One cupful of strawberries.
One cupful of sugar.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs,
well beaten, and stir in the berries. Set the bowl con-
taining the sauce in a basin of hot water, gradually add
the hot milk, cook two minutes, and send to table. Other
berries may be used as the strawberries are in this case.
PUDDING OF STALE CAKE.
Chocolate layer-cake is the best variety to use in this
way, but any other kind will do. Make a soft custard of
Two eggs (yolks).
One pint of milk. *'
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Beat the yolks with a little of the cold milk ; heat the
rest of the milk, and when it boils, add the yolks. Stir
two minutes, add the salt and sugar, and remove from
the fire. Break the cake into pieces, which for this
quantity of custard should measure not more than a pint.
Place the cake in a pudding-dish, pour over it the custard,
and bake twenty minutes. Beat the whites of the eggs
stiff, add one table-spoonful of sugar, spread the egg over
the top, and brown delicately in the oven. Serve cold.
QUEEN OF PUDDINGS.
This may be eaten hot or cold. The following quanti-
ties will answer for eight persons.
PUDDINGS. 437
Two cupfuls of bread-crumbs.
One quart of milk.
Four eggs.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One lemon (rind and juice).
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half cupful of jelly.
One cupful of sugar.
Soak the crumbs in the milk for half an hour. Beat
the yolks and sugar together until light, add them to the
crumbs and milk, stir well, and put in the lemon. Pour
the whole into a pudding-dish, and bake half an hour.
Whip the whites of the eggs stiff, and add to them three
table-spoonfuls of sugar ; when the pudding is done,
place on top of it a layer of the egg, then a layer of jelly
and lastly the rest of the egg, and brown to a delicate
color. If a sauce is preferred, the simple cream sauce
will be most suitable.
APPLE ROLY-POLY.
One pint of flour.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Milk.
One table-spoonful of lard or butter.
One tea-cupful of sugar.
Two tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon.
Apples.
Sift the flour, baking-powder and salt well together,
rub the lard into them, and when all is thoroughly mixed,
add sufficient sweet milk to make a soft dough. Turn
the dough out upon the moulding-board, mould it smooth,
sifting flour under it to prevent its sticking, to the board,
and roll it into a sheet a-quarter of an inch thick. Spread
438 THE PA TTERN COOK- HOOK.
this thickly with sliced apples, and sift over them the
sugar and cinnamon. Roll the dough up the same as
jelly cake, press the overlapping parts of dough well to
the body of the pudding and also press the ends well to
prevent the escape of the juices. Place the pudding on a
plate, set the plate in a steamer over a kettle of hot water,
and steam an hour and a-half. Serve with wine sauce,
No. i.
BAKED APPLE PUDDING,
The dough for this is made the same as the preceding.
Slice enough apples to nearly fill the pudding-dish, sea-
soning them with sugar and cinnamon. After the dough
is smoothed on the board roll it just the size of the top
of the dish, lay it on top of the apples, and bake one
hour. Serve with cream sauce, or with wine sauce, No. 2.
BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING.
This dessert is to be eaten hot. To make enough for
seven persons take
Six medium-sized apples.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of milk.
One-half cupful of water.
Flour.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One egg.
One table-spoonful of butter.
Peel and core the apples, and cut them into eighths.
Place them in a pudding-dish with half the sugar, the cin-
namon and the water, and bake them until nearly done
PUDDINGS. 439
generally about twenty minutes. While the apples are
cooking, rub the butter and the rest of the sugar together,
add the beaten egg, stir well, and add the milk. Sift the
baking-powder and half a tea-cupful of flour together, and
add them to the mixture, stirring in more flour until a
rather thick batter is formed. When the apples are ten-
der, but not quite done, remove the dish from the oven,
stir the apples well, carefully turn the batter over the top
of them, return the dish to the oven, and bake twenty
minutes. Serve with cream sauce.
CHOCOLATE PUDDING.
One quart of milk.
Ten table-spoonfuls of grated bread.
Four table-spoonfuls of grated chocolate.
One cupful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of butter.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
Heat the milk, and when it is boiling, stir in the bread,
sugar, chocolate, salt and butter. Boil three minutes,
remove from the fire, and turn the pudding into a pud-
ding dish. Reserve the whites of two of the eggs, beat
the other two whites and the four yolks well together,
and add them to the pudding, stirring them in well ;
then bake half an hour. Beat the two whites stiff,
add a table-spoonful of sugar, spread the egg on top of
the pudding, and brown delicately in the oven. This is
eaten cold without sauce.
ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING.
This recipe was awarded the two-guinea prize lately
44O THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
offered by the Queen, for which there were five hundred
competitors. The following will make a pudding weigh-
ing six pounds.
One pound of raisins.
One pound of suet.
Three-quarters pound of stale bread-crumbs.
One-quarter pound of brown sugar.
One lemon (rind only).
One-half pound orange peel (candied).
One-quarter pound of flour.
One pound of currants.
One-half of a nutmeg grated.
Five eggs.
One-half pint of brandy.
Chop the suet fine, mince the orange peel, clean, wash
and dry the currants, stone the raisins, and mix all the
dry ingredients together. Beat the eggs, add to them
the brandy ; pour this liquid over the dry mixture, and
mix thoroughly. Pack the pudding into well greased
pudding-moulds, and boil six hours as soon as made, and
six hours when wanted for use. (For boiling pudding,
see page 456.) Serve with
BRANDY SAUCE.
Four table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two eggs (whites only).
One cupful of powdered sugar.
Four table-spoonfuls of brandy.
Four table-spoonfuls of boiling water.
Rub the butter to a cream, gradually add the sugar,
and beat until white and light. Then add the whites one
at a time, beating all the while. When ready to serve,
PUDDINGS. 441
add the brandy and boiling water, set the bowl containing
the sauce in a basin of hot water over the fire, stir until
light and creamy, and serve.
BREAD PUDDING.
This pudding is served hot ; and the following propor-
tions are sufficient for seven persons.
One pint of stale bread.
One quart of milk.
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Place the bread in the milk, and after it has soaked
two hours, mash it very fine. Beat the eggs light, and
add to them the sugar and salt. When well mixed, stir
this into the bread and milk, pour the whole into an
earthenware baking-dish, and bake three-quarters of an
hour in a rather slow oven. Serve with
VANILLA SAUCE.
Two eggs (whites and one yolk).
One-half cupful of granulated sugar.
Three table-spoonfuls of milk.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
Separate the yolks from the whites, beat the latter to a
stiff froth, and add the sugar, stirring it in vigorously.
Beat one of the yolks well, stir it thoroughly into the
milk, add the vanilla, and place the mixture in the sauce-
boat. Heap the beaten whites on top, and stir them in
just before serving and after the sauce is on the table.
The other yolk is not required in the sauce.
442 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
CHERRY PUDDING.
This is a large recipe, two-thirds being sufficient for a
family of six.
Three eggs.
Two quarts of cherries.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
One and one-half pint of stale bread-crumbs.
One pint of flour.
One pint of milk.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
One-quarter of a nutmeg.
Soak the bread in the milk for one hour. Mix the
sugar, salt, baking-powder, flour and nutmeg together,
sifting all through a sieve. Mash the bread in the milk,
stir into it the flour mixture, mix well, add the eggs, well
beaten, and lastly put in the cherries, which may be
stoned or not, as preferred. This pudding may be
steamed or boiled. If to be steamed, butter the pudding-
tin thoroughly, turn into it the mixture, allowing space
for the pudding to increase one-third in size, and steam
two hours and a-half. If to be boiled, dip the pudding
bag in boiling water, spread it out, dredge it well on the
inside with flour, pour in the mixture, and tie it up
securely. Have a tin plate at the bottom of a kettle that
is half full of boiling water. Place the pudding in this
kettle, and boil it constantly for four hours, replenishing
the water as needed from the boiling tea-kettle. When
done, lift the pudding out, plunge it into cold water,
remove it immediately and turn it out upon a platter.
Serve with a sauce made the same as strawberry sauce
PUDDINGS. 443
(see page 436), substituting for the berries one cupful of
cherries that have been slightly stewed.
APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING.
Three-quarter cupful of pearl tapioca.
One quart of water.
One lemon.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Seven apples.
Fourteen tea-spoonfuls of sugar.
Soak the tapioca over night in the water ; or if the fine
tapioca is used three hours of soaking will suffice. One
hour before dinner time, place the water and tapioca
in a double boiler, and boil until the tapioca is trans-
parent, usually about thirty minutes. Stir it often, and
add the salt just before taking the tapioca from the fire.
Pare and core the apples, place in the cavity made by
each core two tea-spoonfuls of sugar, and divide the
juice of the lemon among the seven apples. Place a
little dot of butter on top of each apple, arrange the apples
in a baking-dish, pour the tapioca over them, and bake
until they are soft, usually thirty or forty minutes.
Serve hot with cream and sugar.
BLACK PUDDING.
One cupful of molasses.
One cupful of warm water.
Two and one-half cupfuls of flour.
One cupful of raisins.
One scanty tea-spoonful of soda.
One-half scant tea-spoonful of salt.
One egg.
444 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
Place the water and molasses together, add the soda,
and stir all well to dissolve the latter. Add the salt and
flour and then the egg well beaten, stirring vigorously
after each addition. Stone the raisins, chop them rather
coarse and add them the last thing. Butter a pudding
mould or a basin, turn the mixture into it, set the basin
in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, and steam two
hours. Serve with the following
SUGAR SAUCE.
One cupful of white sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
Two eggs.
Vanilla to flavor.
Rub the butter and sugar together until they form a
frothy cream. Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs,
add first the yolks, well beaten, and stir them well into
the butter and sugar ; and then add the beaten whites,
which have been whipped to a stiff froth. Beat all well
together, add the flavoring, and the sauce is then ready to
use.
FANCY PUDDING.
One pint of milk.
Three eggs (whites).
Three table-spoonfuls of corn-starch.
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Dissolve the corn-starch in a little of the cold milk,
place the rest of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler,
and when it is scalding, add the corn-starch. Let the
latter boil three minutes, and add the sugar and salt and
PUDDINGS. 445
then the whites of eggs beaten to a stilf froth. Cook but
a moment, remove the mixture from the fire, pour it into a
pudding-mould that has been wet in cold water, and set
it away to cool. Make the following
FANCY SAUCE.
One pint of milk.
Three eggs (yolks).
Vanilla to flavor.
One-third cupful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of corn-starch.
One-third tea-spoonful of salt.
Beat the yolks until light, and stir into them two table-
spoonfuls of the milk. Add the same quantity of milk to
the corn-starch, and when the latter is well dissolved stir
the two mixtures vigorously together. Place the rest of
the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and when it is
scalding, turn into it the mixture of egg and corn-starch.
Let the whole boil two minutes, add the salt and the
sugar, remove from the fire, and when the sauce is cold,
add the flavoring. Turn the pudding out upon a platter,
pour the sauce about it, and serve.
COTTAGE PUDDING.
One cupful of milk.
Two eggs.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One cupful of sugar.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Flour to thicken, about one pint.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the egg,
well beaten, and then the milk, stirring all well. Sift the
446 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
baking-powder over the top, and before stirring it in, sift
over it a little flour. Stir well, adding enough more flour
to make a rather thick batter ; then pour the batter into a
buttered dish, and bake thirty minutes. Serve hot with
milk sauce. (See page 415.)
CHOCOLATE CUSTARD PUDDING.
One-half cupful of grated chocolate.
One and one-half pint of milk.
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of corn-starch.
Two eggs.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
Place the corn-starch in two table-spoonfuls of the milk
and dissolve it ; place the yolks of the >Jggs also in two
table-spoonfuls of the milk, and beat them thin with a
fork ; then place the two mixtures together. Put the
rest of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and when
it boils, turn in the grated chocolate, stir well, and let it
boil five minutes or until the chocolate is perfectly dis-
solved. Remove the liquid from the fire, and strain it
through a fine wire strainer ; then return it to the kettle
or boiler, and when it boils again, stir into it the mixture
of corn-starch and egg. Add the salt and sugar, stir
often and let the whole cook six or eight minutes. Turn
the pudding into a pudding-dish, and add the vanilla.
Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add one large table-
spoonful of sugar, lay the froth on top of the pudding,
and brown delicately. The above quantity is enough
for six persons. The pudding is eaten cold, without
sauce-
PUDDINGS. 447
MINUTE PUDDING.
One quart of milk.
One pint of flour.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of butter.
Two eggs.
Beat the eggs well, and add the flour and enough of
the milk to make all smooth. Place the rest of the milk
on the fire in a double-boiler, and when scalding hot, stir
in the mixture of flour and egg. Cook ten minutes, add
the salt and butter, and serve at once with
NUTMEG SAUCE.
One pint of milk.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Nutmeg to taste.
Place the sugar and milk together and sift into them
sufficient nutmeg to flavor.
SWEDISH PUDDING.
This pudding is to be served hot. For five persons allow
Two cupfuls of flour
One-half cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of sugar.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Four eggs.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the
yolks of the eggs, well beaten, then the salt and flour and
lastly the beaten whites. Butter five tea-cups, and pour
the batter into them, filling the cups but half full. Place
the cups in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, and
448 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
steam them thirty minutes, by which time the batter will
fill the cups. Turn the puddings out upon a hot platter,
and pour around them a clear
BRANDY SAUCE.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Four table-spoonfuls of brandy.
Four table-spoonfuls of boiling water.
One egg (white).
One-half cupful of powdered sugar.
Beat the butter to a cream, gradually add the sugar,
and beat until white and light ; then add the white,
beaten to a stiff froth, and stir well. When ready to
serve, add the brandy and the water, stand the bowl con-
taining the sauce in a basin of boiling water on the fire,
and stir until the sauce is light and foamy. It is then
ready to use.
TIPSY PUDDING.
This may be made of any dry cake, sponge-cake being
preferred. The following recipe is calculated for six
persons. Saturate six slices of sponge cake with sherry,
taking care the cake is not soaked enough to fall to
pieces. Place the cake in the serving dish, and pour over
it the following
SOFT CUSTARD.
One pint of milk.
Three eggs (yolks).
One-half teaspoonful of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Beat the yolks well, and add to them half a cupful of
PUDDINGS. 449
the milk ; place the rest of the milk in a double-boiler on
the fire, and when scalding hot, stir in the yolks, cook
one minute, and add the salt and sugar. The custard is
then ready to use.
If the pudding is placed in a glass dish, decorate the
top with the whites of the eggs prepared as follows :
Beat the whites stiff. Have ready a pint of boiling milk,
put in a spoonful of the egg, cook it one minute, turn it
on the other side, and cook one minute longer ; then take
it up, drain on a dish, and when quite free of milk, lay it
on top of the custard. This is called " poaching the
white." Repeat the process until all the egg has been
prepared, and place a dot of jelly on top of each piece
of egg before sending the pudding to table.
If the pudding is served in a platter, beat the whites
stiff, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar and one tea-spoon-
ful of vanilla, sprinkle the egg on top of the pudding, and
brown in the oven.
RICE CARAMEL PUDDING.
One cupful of rice.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Two eggs.
Two and a half pints of milk.
One 'tea-spoonful of salt.
One stick of cinnamon.
Wash the rice, and soak it for three hours in plenty of
water. Drain off the water at the end of the time, place
the rice and cinnamon in a double boiler with all but half
a cupful of the milk, and cook for two hours. Place the
sugar in a small frying-pan, and stir until it turns brown
and becomes a liquid. Instantly pour the sugar into a
29
450 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
three-pint mould that has been well warmed on the back
of the range, and turn the mould around so that the sugar
will coat all parts of it. As the sugar- hardens quickly,
the work must be expeditiously done or the sugar will not
spread. Beat the eggs well, add the half-cupful of milk
reserved, and stir this into the boiling rice, adding also
the salt. Let the whole cook only about a minute after
boiling up, and then turn the pudding into the sugar-
lined mould. Cover the mould, place it in a pan of boil-
ing water, and bake half an hour. When done, remove
it from the oven, and after it has stood ten minutes, turn
it out upon a flat dish. Serve with the custard sauce.
The pudding is served hot and the sauce cold.
SPONGE BATTER PUDDING.
One quart of milk.
Three eggs.
Three table-spoonfuls of butter.
One-half cupful of flour.
One-quarter cupful of sugar.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Place half the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and
stir the other half of the milk into the flour, making a
paste. When the milk in the boiler is'scalding, turn into
it the paste and stir until the whole is smooth. Cook for
four minutes, remove from the fire, and add the butter,
sugar, salt and the beaten yolks ; then let the mixture
cool slightly, and add the beaten whites. Butter a pud-
ding dish and pour the batter into it, the dish being so
large that the batter will but half fill it. Set the dish in
a large pan, pour into the pan enough hot water to come
half way up the sides of the dish, and bake the pudding
PUDDINGS. 45 1
half an hour in a quick oven. Serve without delay with a
cream sauce, which is also sent to table hot.
CREAM SAUCE.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of boiling water.
One cupful of cream.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
Place the sugar and water in a porcelain-lined saucepan,
and boil rapidly for fifteen minutes. Beat the cream well
with a whisk or a fork, and add it gradually to the syrup.
Remove the sauce from the fire and add the vanilla.
PUFFS, WITH ORANGE SAUCE.
These are served hot and make a delicious dessert.
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of milk.
Two cupfuls of flour.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
One cupful of granulated sugar.
One cupful of powdered sugar.
Three eggs.
Two oranges (rind and juice).
Grate the rind from the oranges, squeeze the juice
upon the rind and set it away until needed to finish the
sauce. Beat the butter to a cream, gradually add the
granulated sugar, and when the cream is well beaten, add
the unbeaten yolks of the eggs. Beat well again, add
the milk, and then stir in the flour, with which the pow-
der has been mixed. Bake for twenty minutes in well
buttered muffin pans. While the puffs are baking, make
the sauce. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, and gradu-
452 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
ally add the powdered sugar and then the orange juice
and rind ; the sauce is then ready to use. Turn the puffs
out upon a flat dish, pour the sauce around them, and
serve at once. A lemon may be substituted for the
oranges if preferred.
CREAM PUFFS.
The following allowance will make nine large puffs.
One cupful of sifted flour.
One cupful of water.
One-half cupful of butter.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Three eggs.
T Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Put the butter, sugar, salt and water on the fire in a
rather large sauce pan, and when the water begins lo boil,
add the flour dry, sifting it in by degrees with the left
hand, while constantly stirring with the right hand. Stir
vigorously until the mixture is perfectly smooth, about
three minutes generally sufficing. Remove the pan from
the fire, turn the batter into a bowl, and set it away to
cool. When cool, put in the eggs unbeaten, adding but
one at a time, and beating vigorously after each addi-
tion. When the eggs are all in, beat the batter very
thoroughly u rT : s smooth and soft, at least fifteen min-
utes being n ,ary for this purpose. Lightly butter a
baking-pan, a / drop the mixture into it from a table-
spoon, using a spoonful for each puff, and placing them
about an inch apart. Bake thirty minutes in a quick
oven. These puffs are to be served cold. After taking
them from the oven, let them cool, split them open and
put in
PUDDINGS. 453
THE CREAM.
One-half pint of milk.
One egg (yolk only).
One and one-half table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One even table-spoonful of corn-starch.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
One-half tea-spoonful of butter.
Place the yolk of the egg in a tea-cup, beat it light
with a fork, and add two table-spoonfuls of the cold milk.
Place the corn-starch in another cup, add to it the same
quantity of milk, and when the starch is well dissolved,
add the egg mixture. Place the rest of the milk on the
fire in a small double-boiler, or in a sauce pan set in
another containing hot water ; and when it boils, stir in
the mixture of egg and corn-starch. Let the whole boil
three minutes, add the salt, sugar and butter, remove
from the fire, and when cool, add the flavoring. Pour a
small spoonful of the cream into the hollow in each puff,
replace the top taken off to admit the cream, and serve.
These puffs may be eaten hot without the cream and
with a strawberry sauce.
SILVER PUDDING.
Five eggs.
One quart of milk.
One-half cupful of sugar.
One-half table-spoonful of butu
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
Butter a quart pudding-mould. Separate the whites of
the eggs from the yolks, being very careful not to leave a
particle of yolk with the whites. Put one-third of the
454 ? HE PATTERN COOK-BOOK'.
sugar and half a table-spoonful of the milk with the
whites, and beat the mixture with a spoon until it breaks
readily when poured from the spoon ; then add a pint of
the milk, half the extract and half the salt, and when all
is well blended, pour the mixture through a fine strainer
into the mould. Set the mould in a pan, and pour
enough hot water about it to reach almost to its top.
Place the whole in a moderate oven for three-quarters of
an hour, being careful that the water in the pan does not
boil. When the custard is properly cooked, the blade of
a knife inserted in it will come forth clear and free from
any milky appearance. As soon as the custard is done,
set the mould where it will become very cold. While the
custard is cooking, place the beaten yolks of the eggs in
two table-spoonfuls of the remaining pint of milk, set the
rest of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler, and when
it is scalding hot, add the egg, and cook two minutes ;
then remove the custard from the fire, add the rest of the
salt and sugar, and set it away to become thoroughly
cold, after which the vanilla should be put in. At serv-
ing time turn the baked custard into a flat glass dish, and
pour the soft custard around it. This pudding makes a
good dessert for Sunday dinner, as it is all the better for
being made the day before it is served.
STRAWBERRY PUDDING.
One cupful of flour.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
Four eggs.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One lemon (juice).
One quart of strawberries.
One half pint of cream.
PUDDINGS. 455
Beat together a cupful of the sugar, the lemon juice
and the yolks of the eggs ; also beat the whites to a stiff
froth, and add them to the yolks and sugar ; then mix the
powder and flour thoroughly and stir them in gradually.
Butter a deep, round pan, pour in the mixture, and bake
forty minutes in a moderate oven. While this cake is
baking, pick over and crush the berries, add to them
the rest of the sugar, and set away in a cool place.
Whip the cream light with a whip-churn or a Dover egg-
beater, and set it away to cool also. When the cake is
baked and has become cool, place it in a large pudding-
dish, pour the strawberries over it, heap the whipped
cream upon the fruit, and serve. More cream may, if
desired, be used than is called for in this recipe. To
make this pudding properly, the berries should be very
juicy when emptied upon the cake. Stale sponge cake
may be utilized in this way. Raspberries may be used in
place of strawberries, and will require less sugar.
RICE BALLS, WITH CUSTARD.
One cupful of rice.
Two and a-half cupfuls of milk.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Jelly for decorating.
Wash the rice well, and soak it for an hour in enough
water to cover it. Pour off the water, add the milk, and
cook for an hour in a double boiler ; then put in the
salt, and cook half an hour longer. Dip small custard
cups into cold water, 'fill them with the cooked rice, and
set them where they will become cold. At serving time
turn the mounds of rice out upon a flat dish, and after
putting a bit of bright jelly upon each, pour about them a
456 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
soft custard, which will have been made by the following
recipe :
SOFT CUSTARD.
One quart of milk.
Four eggs (yolks).
One-half cupful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of corn-starch.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
Beat the yolks light, and add to them two table-spoon-
fuls of the cold milk. Thoroughly mix two table-spoon-
fuls of the milk with the corn-starch, and add the eggs.
Place the rest of the milk on the fire in a double boiler,
and when it is hot, stir in the mixture of egg and corn-
starch. Cook the whole for five minutes, stirring well ;
then remove the custard from the fire, add the salt, and
when cold, flavor with vanilla. This is a cheap custard,
and it is not, of course, as good as if made wholly of eggs,
in which case the yolks of six eggs should be used and
the corn-starch omitted. The rice may be served hot and
the custard cold, if desired.
HOW TO BOIL PUDDINGS.
Puddings may be boiled in a bowl, a mould or a cloth.
The mould should have a closely fitting top and be well
buttered, top and all, before the batter is poured in.
Pudding moulds are usually made with hasps or other
fastenings, but if these are lacking, tie the cover down
securely. A tin pail may be used in an emergency ; but
in such a case the top of the pudding should first be
covered with a cloth that has been wrung from hot water
and well dredged with flour, and the cover of the pail
PUDDINGS. 457
should then be put on securely. If a bowl is used, butter
it well, and tie a flannel cloth tightly over the top. The
cloth should be wrung out of hot water, so the flour will
adhere to it thickly. But whatever utensil is used in
which to boil a pudding, it should only be two-thirds full
when the pudding is first put in : this is to allow for the
increase in size caused by the boiling. A pudding bag
should be made with felled seams at the sides and bot-
tom, the better to exclude the water. When about to use
it, wring the bag out of hot water, turn it inside out, and
dust it very thickly with flour on both sides. Turn it
back again, put in the pudding, and tie the top of the
bag securely. The water in the kettle must be boiling
when the pudding is put into it and should not cease
boiling for one instant until the pudding is done. The
bag, mould or bowl should be turned several times under
the water to prevent it sticking to the kettle. The bag
should be entirely covered with water, but if a mould is
used, the water need not reach quite to its top.
When the proper time of boiling is finished, remove
the mould or bag from the water, plunge it instantly into
cold water, and then turn it out without losing a second.
This prevents sticking, and causes the mould to make a
clearer impression upon the pudding. Boiled puddings
must always be served immediately, or they will soon
grow heavy. Many of the puddings that are baked can
be more successfully boiled, but twice as much time is
required for boiling as for baking.
BOILED INDIAN PUDDING.
One pint of molasses.
One pint of milk.
458 THE PATTERN
One pound of suet.
Four eggs.
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Indian meal.
Warm the milk, and add the molasses, stirring well
together; then beat the eggs vigorously, and stir them
thoroughly into the liquid. Chop the suet fine, and
add it and the rest of the ingredients together, with suffi-
cient meal to make a rather thick batter; boil for three
hours, and serve with wine sauce.
CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING,
One pint of seeded raisins.
One-half pint of currants.
One-quarter pint of citron, cut small.
One pint of apples (peeled and chopped).
One pint of flour.
One-half a nutmeg (grated).
One-half pint of sugar.
One pint of chopped suet.
One pint of sweet milk.
One and a-quarter pint of bread-crumbs.
Four eggs.
One tea-spoonful of salt. .
Place the dry ingredients together; then add the eggs,
well beaten, and the rest of the recipe. When mixed, the
batter should be quite thick; if not satisfactory in this
respect, add more flour. Boil for four hours, and serve
with brandy or wine sauce.
SIMPLE CURRANT PUDDING.
One pint of milk.
One-ha.lf pint of currants (dried).
PUDDINGS. 459
Three table-spoonfuls of flour.
One-quarter cupful of butter.
Four eggs (yolks).
Mix the flour with a little of the milk until perfectly
smooth, add the rest of the milk, and if the paste seems
at all lumpy, strain it through a sieve ; then place the
liquid on the fire in a double boiler, and let it simmer
until rather thick, stirring often. Add the butter, remove
from the fire, and when cooled, stir in the beaten yolks
of the eggs and the dried currants. Put the pudding in
a bag, and boil two hours. Serve with wine sauce.
WEBSTER PUDDING.
One-half cupful of molasses.
One-half cupful of sweet milk.
One-quarter cupful of melted butter.
One-quarter cupful of wine or brandy.
One-half pound of raisins or currants.
One-half tea-spoonful of soda.
One-half tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-half tea-spoonful of cloves.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
Flour to thicken.
Warm the milk, dissolve the soda in it, and add the
molasses. Mix the dry ingredients together, add them to
the milk and molasses, and thicken with flour until a
rather stiff batter is formed. If wine is not convenient
or desirable, the juice of two lemons may be used. Pour
the pudding into a well floured bag, boil three hours, and
serve with the following
460 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
WINE SAUCE.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
One egg.
One-half pint of boiling water.
One-eighth pint of wine or lemon-juice.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the egg, well
beaten, and stir in, a spoonful at a time, the boiling water.
Set the bowl containing the sauce in a sauce-panful of
boiling water, and let it stand on the fire for five minutes ;
then remove,, add the wine and a dusting of nutmeg or
cinnamon, and serve.
BOILED BREAD PUDDING.
Two cupfuls of bread-crumbs.
One cupful of molasses.
One cupful of raisins,
One cupful of milk.
Two eggs.
Butter or suet the size of an egg.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One tea-spoonful of cloves.
One tea-spoonful of allspice.
One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk for fifteen minutes ;
then mash them fine, add the molasses, warmed, and the
soda, dissolved in a table-spoonful of cold water. Next
put in the spice, salt, seeded raisins, butter (if suet is
used, chop it very fine before adding it), and lastly the
beaten eggs. Boil in a bag or a mould for two hours,
and serve with hard sauce.
FROZEN DISHES.
"A dainty dish to set before a king."
MOTHER GOOSE.
DURING the summer months desserts should be as
light and cooling as possible, and nothing is more whole-
some and thoroughly satisfactory for the purpose than
the many frozen dainties, such as ice-creams, ices, frozen
fruits, etc. After the housewife has accustomed herself
to the preparation of ice-creams and ices, the work will
seem quite as simple as that involved in the productions
of any other dessert ; besides, the cost is not so great as
is generally supposed, and the packing and freezing are
by no means the intricate processes many cooks think
them.
The simplest kind of ice-cream is made of cream, sugar
and flavoring. Almost any kind of fruit may be made
very sweet and frozen with water, or the juice of the fruit
may be combined with water and sugar and then frozen.
The more acid the fruit, the smaller the quantity of it
required, as will be observed by a comparison of lemon
and orange sherbet, the juice of ten oranges being used
to produce the same quantity of sherbet that five lemons
will make.
461
462 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
TO FREEZE ICE-CREAMS, ICES, ETC.
Break the ice into pieces the size of a quart bowl,
place these in a canvas bag, and pound the ice with a
wooden mallet until it is reduced to pieces the size of a
bird's egg that is, until it is practically crushed. After
adjusting the can containing the liquid in the freezer,
pack around the can a layer of ice five inches deep ;
sprinkle this layer freely with rock salt, and continue to
arrange alternate layers of ice and salt until the freezer
is full, pounding the packing with a stick of wood after
each addition of salt, and turning the crank of the freezer
a few times to settle the ice. Do not draw off the water
that forms in the tub, as it makes a perfectly cold envel-
ope for the can. To pack a gallon freezer will require
ten quarts of ice and three pints of rock salt. By using
more salt, the work may be more quickly done, but the
cream will not be so smooth. Turn the crank slowly at
first, increasing its speed as the cream hardens.. When
finished, carefully wipe the bits of ice and salt from the
cover of the can, and remove the cover without taking
out the can. Remove the beater, scrape the cream from
it, and work a large spoon up and down in the can until
the space formed by withdrawing the beater is filled and
the cream is light. Replace the cover, putting a cork in
the hole in which the trunk of the beater worked ; and
set the freezer aside for awhile in a cold place, covering
the can with ice and throwing a piece of carpet or a
blanket over the whole. At serving time take the can
from the tub and place it for a few seconds in a pan of
tepid water ; the cream may then be easily slipped out
upon a dish, or it may be taken out in smooth,
FROZEN DISHES. 463
egg-shaped portions by means of a large cooking-spoon
that has been dipped for an instant in hot water.
If the cream is to be moulded, it should be removed
from the freezer when the beater is taken out. After
being placed in the mould, it should be worked up and
down with a spoon, so that every part of the mould shall
be filled. Lay a sheet of white paper upon the cream
before putting on the cover, and bury the mould in fresh
ice and salt. If the mould is to stand in the ice and salt
for many hours, cut a strip of paper or cloth to fit
around the cover where it joins the mould, spread this
with soft butter or tallow, and fasten it where the cover
and mould join ; this strip will keep out the salt water,
and it should be removed and the mould carefully wiped
before the cover is taken off.
There are many good freezers, the best of which, per-
haps, is the variety that works with a crank and has a
double, revolving dasher making a triple motion. If
there is no freezer at hand, an impromptu one may be
made by using a tin-pail for the can and a bucket or
cask for the tub; stir the cream occasionally with a
wooden spoon or flat stick, replacing the lid of the pail
after each stirring, and giving the pail a rotary motion in
the ice.
PHILADELPHIA ICE-CREAM.
Genuine Philadelphia ice-cream is made simply of
cream, flavoring and sugar, neither arrowroot, gelatine
nor eggs being used in its composition. The cream is
first scalded and the sugar dissolved in it while it is hot.
When raw cream is frozen the flavoring is not so pro-
nounced, and the cream has a frozen, snowy taste and is
464 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
not perfectly smooth and velvety. The cream may be
either rich or thin, but milk of poor quality will not
answer. If the cream is exceedingly rich, it may be
difficult to freeze, and may contain grains of butter.
VANILLA ICE-CREAM.
To make enough for six persons, allow
One quart of cream.
One-half pint of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of vanilla.
Put the sugar and one-half the cream in a double
boiler, and boil for ten minutes, stirring constantly. Re-
move the liquid from the fire, and set it away to cool.
When cold, add the remaining cream and the vanilla,
stir well, and freeze. The ice-cream should stand at
least two hours after freezing before it is served.
LEMON ICE-CREAM.
The following will serve six persons :
One quart of cream.
Two-thirds of a pint of sugar.
Three lemons (rind of all and juice of two).
One orange (juice).
Mix the juice of the orange and the juice and rind of
the lemons with the sugar, and set the mixture in a cold
place for an hour. Scald the cream in a double boiler,
and set it aside to cool. When the cream is cold, partly
freeze it, then add the mixture of juice and sugar (the
sugar should by this time be quite dissolved), and finish
the freezing by turning the crank rapidly for five minutes.
FROZEN DISHES. 465
BISQUE ICE-CREAM.
One quart of cream.
One-quarter pound of macaroons.
Two stale " lady-finger " cakes.
One-half pound of sugar.
Four kisses.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One tea-spoonful of caramel.
Pound the macaroons, kisses and " lady-fingers," and
put them through a colander. Place half the cream on
the fire in a double boiler to scald, add to it the sugar,
and stir until it boils. Remove the hot cream from the
fire, add the rest of the cream, and when all is cold, turn
it into the freezer, and freeze. When properly frozen
add the vanilla, caramel and pounded cakes, and also
five table-spoonfuls of sherry, if not objected to. Beat
the whole until perfectly smooth, cover, and set away
to ripen for two or three hours before using.
ORANGE ICE-CREAM.
One quart of cream.
Six oranges (juices of all, rind of one).
Three-quarters of a pint of sugar.
Set half the cream on the fire in a double boiler, add
the sugar, and when the cream boils, remove it from the
fire. When cold, add the rest of the cream and the
orange juice and grated rind. Freeze, and do not use
for three hours.
PISTACHIO ICE-CREAM.
One quart of cream.
One quart of spinach.
30
466 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
One-half pound of sugar.
One-half pound of shelled pistachio nuts.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One tea-spoonful of extract of almonds.
Wash the spinach, throw it into a kettle of boiling
water, boil rapidly for three minutes, and drain in a col-
ander ; then pound it until reduced to a pulp, and
squeeze out the juice by means of a fine muslin cloth.
Blanch and pound the nuts. Scald half the cream with
the sugar in a double boiler, and when the sugar is dis-
solved, take the cream from the fire. As soon as the
cream is cold add the nuts, the flavoring and the re-
maining cream, mix all well, and pour in sufficient of the
spinach juice to color the liquid a light green. Freeze,
and do not use for two or three hours.
CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM.
One quart of cream.
Four ounces of chocolate.
One large table-spoonful of vanilla.
i Two-thirds of a pint of sugar.
Place half the cream, the chocolate and the sugar on
the fire in a double boiler ; stir and beat the mixture
until smooth, and strain it while hot through a fine muslin
cloth wrung from hot water. Add the rest of the cream,
and when the whole is cold, add the vanilla, and freeze.
The above quantity will serve six persons.
PEACH ICE-CREAM.
To make two quarts of cream, when frozen, allow
One quart of cream.
One pint of peaches.
FROZEN DISHES. 467
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of almond extract.
Pare the peaches, which should be very ripe and mel-
low, and cut them into very small pieces to accurately
measure them, allowing a generous pint. Mash and
strain the peaches through a sieve, beat the sugar into the
strained pulp, and let the latter stand half an hour ;
then add the cream, beating it in gradually, flavor with
the extract, and freeze.
ICE-CREAMS WITH EGGS.
VANILLA ICE-CREAM, NO. I.
One quart of rich cream.
One pint of milk.
Two eggs (whites only).
Two cupf uls of sugar.
One table-spoonful of vanilla.
Mix the milk, cream, sugar and vanilla well together,
let the mixture stand twenty minutes, and then add the
whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Stir well, and
freeze.
VANILLA ICE-CREAM, NO. 2.
One pint of milk.
One pint of cream, or one can of condensed milk.
Two eggs.
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of vanilla.
Stir the sugar, vanilla, cream and milk well together,
and after the mixture has stood twenty minutes, add the
eggs, both yolks and whites, beating them up well and
stirring them vigorously into the cream and milk. Freeze
as directed.
468 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM.
One quart of cream.
One and a-half pint of millk.
Four eggs.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
One table-spoonful of water.
Two and a-half cupfuls of sugar.
One ounce of chocolate.
Rub the flour smooth with half a cupful of the milk,
set the rest of the milk on the fire in a double boiler, and
add to it two cupfuls of the sugar. Beat the eggs
very light, stir them thoroughly with the flour mixture,
and when the milk is boiling, stir the egg and flour into
it, and cook for fifteen minutes, beating up often. Scrape
the chocolate, put it in a small saucepan with the rest of
the sugar and the water, and stir it over a moderate fire
until smooth and glossy. Add the chocolate to the
cooked mixture, and when well stirred in, remove the
whole from the fire, and cool. When cold, add the
cream, and freeze.
NEAPOLITAN ICE-CREAM.
One quart of cream.
One quart of milk.
One and a-half cupful of strawberry or raspberry juice.
One tea-spoonful of dissolved cochineal.
One ounce of chocolate.
One table-spoonful of vanilla.
One pint of sugar.
Six eggs (yolks).
Beat together the yolks of the eggs and three gills of
the sugar, and add half a cupful of the milk. Place
the rest of the milk on the fire in a double boiler, and
FROZEN DISHES. 469
when boiling, gradually pour it on the egg mixture, stir-
ring well. Then replace the liquid in the boiler, and
boil it for four minutes, stirring all the time. Remove it
from the fire, and when cold, add the cream and vanilla,
and freeze for twenty minutes. Have a tub in which will
fit a three-quart mould, a brick mould being best for this
kind of cream ; also have the salt and ice ready for
packing. Place the chocolate, a gill of sugar and a
table-spoonful of water, in a small saucepan on the fire,
and stir until smooth and glossy ; then add two table-
spoonfuls more of water, and set the chocolate back where
it will not cook: Place one-third of the frozen cream in a
bowl, and beat the dissolved chocolate into it. When
this is perfectly smooth, pack it in the mould, and arrange
ice and salt around the latter, then pack half of the re-
maining cream on top of the mixture in the mould. Next
add the cochineal to the fruit juice, and beat this into the
remainder of the frozen cream. Spread this as a top
layer on the cream in the mould, cover closely, and set
away for two hours before using. When done, this cream
should be in three layers, first chocolate, then plain
cream, and lastly the red cream. It makes a most attrac-
tive dessert.
FROZEN CUSTARD.
One quart of cream.
Six eggs (yolks).
One-half pint of sugar.
One table-spoonful of vanilla.
Put all but half a pint of the cream on the fire in a
double boiler, add the sugar, and stir well. Beat the
yolks of the eggs light, and add to them the half pint of
4/O THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
cold cream ; and when the cream in the boiler is boiling,
stir the eggs and milk into it. Stir continually until the
mixture thickens, remove it from the fire, and when cool,
add the vanilla, and freeze. This recipe will make
enough for eight persons.
ICE-CREAM WITH ARROWROOT.
For two quarts of cream, allow
One quart of cream.
One pint of milk.
One-half pint of sugar.
One table-spoonful of arrowroot.
One-half table-spoonful of vanilla.
Mix the arrowroot with half a cupful of the milk, set
the rest of the milk in a double boiler over the fire, and
when it boils, beat in the arrowroot, and cook ten min-
utes, stirring often. Remove from the fire, add the sugar,
and set the mixture away to cool. When cold, add the
cream and flavoring, and freeze.
ICE-CREAM WITH GELATINE.
To make two quarts of cream, allow as follows :
One quart of cream.
One pint of milk.
' One-half pint of sugar.
One-quarter package of gelatine.
Flavoring.
Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a cupful of the
milk. Heat another cupful of milk, and stir the soaked
gelatine and the sugar into it. Stir for a moment, add
the rest of the milk, strain, and cool. Whip the cream to
FROZEN DISHES. 47 1
a froth with a churn or an egg beater, stir it into the
cooled preparation, and freeze.
WHIPPED CREAM.
A large variety of delicious and attractive desserts may
be made from whipped cream. The cream must be of
good consistency or it will not whip, and it must not be
too thick or the result will be equally unsatisfactory.
A pint of cream will more than double in size when
whipped, hence it is not as costly a dessert as many may
suppose.
The first essential to success in whipping cream is to
have both cream and utensils very cold. Set the cream
on the. ice for at least an hour, to thoroughly chill it ;
then pour it into a deep bowl. It will expedite the whip-
ping to set the bowl in a pan of pounded ice, but this is
not absolutely necessary. Use for whipping a whip-
churn (see " Kitchen Utensils," page 46), or a Dover egg-
beater. The egg-beater will make the cream light,
but it gives it a different consistency from that obtained
by churning ; and there will not be quite so much
froth produced from the cream. Place the churn in
the cream, hold the cylinder firmly, and keep the cover
in place with the left hand. Tip the churn slightly that
the cream may flow out at the bottom. Work the dasher
with a light, short stroke upward, and a hard, pushing
stroke downward. The first bubbles to appear will be
large and will not remain firm, and they should be
stirred down with a spoon. When the bowl is full of
froth, skim this off into a granite pan placed on ice.
Take off the froth only, and do not take it off below the
holes in the cylinder, as the cream whips better when
472 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
they are covered. Do not use too large a bowl for the
reason that all the cream will not whip. If the cream
is to be used as a garnish, drain it, when whipped, on a
hair sieve placed over a pan ; and keep it on ice until
stiff enough to retain its shape.
Creams that are to be moulded are made stiffer by the
use of gelatine.
Mousses.
A mousse is a dish made with whipped cream and
frozen without being stirred. When the mass is cut into,
it has a texture like fine moss, hence its name. The
labor of preparing this dish is slight, but it requires at
least five hours to freeze or harden it. In moulding, if
the mould is lined with white paper, the mousse will have
a smoother and handsomer appearance ; but it needs a
little longer time to freeze when the paper is used. A
mousse may be made with any flavoring or fruit desired,
taking the name of the flavoring or fruit used.
STRAWBERRY MoUSS6.
One pint of strawberries.
One-half pint of sugar.
One pint of cream.
One-eighth package of gelatine.
One table-spoonful of cold water.
Two table-spoonfuls of boiling water.
Mash the berries with the sugar, and let them stand
two hours, placing the gelatine at the same time in the
cold water. At the end of the two hours pack a two-
quart mould in enough ice and salt to bring the packing
up to the cover of the mould. Rub the fruit through a
FROZEN DISHES. 473
strainer, pour the boiling water on the soaked gelatine,
and when the latter has dissolved, put it with the fruit.
Set the basin containing this mixture of fruit, sugar and
gelatine in a pan of ice-water, and stir it until it begins to
thicken. Have the cream already whipped and drained,
and add it to the thickened fruit, stirring gently. When
the whole is smooth, turn it into the mould, lay over it a
sheet of white paper, put on the cover of the mould, and
coat the edge with melted suet to keep out the salt water.
Pack ice and salt over the mould, covering it entirely,
and freeze five or six hours. At serving time remove the
mould from the ice, wipe off the suet and any particles of
salt, and dip the mould for a moment in tepid water.
Wipe it carefully, and turn out the mousse on a flat dish.
This dessert should be cut in smooth slices as it is served.
ORANGE Souffle.
One quart of cream.
Six eggs.
One pint of orange juice.
One-half box of gelatine.
One pound of sugar.
One-half cupful of cold water.
One-half cupful of hot water.
Cover the gelatine with the cold water, and let it soak
an hour ; then add the boiling water, and stir until dis-
solved. Place the orange juice and sugar together at the
same time that the gelatine is put in the cold water, and
let them stand an hour also. Beat the yolks light, whip
and drain the cream, mix the fruit, sugar and yolks
together in a tin basin, stand the basin in a pan of ice-
water, strain the gelatine into it and stir carefully until
474 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
the whole begins to thicken.. Then stir in the whipped
cream lightly and quickly, and freeze for two hours.
Serve with
MONTROSE SAUCE.
One pint of cream.
Three eggs (yolks).
One-quarter cupful of powdered sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of water.
One table-spoonful of gelatine.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
Cover the gelatine with the water, and let it soak half an
hour. Place half the cream on the fire in a small sauce-
pan, and set this in another containing boiling water. Beat
the yolks of the eggs light, add to them the rest of the
cream, and stir the whole into the boiling cream. Add the
sugar and cook about a minute, when the custard should
thicken ; then add the gelatine, and when it is dissolved,
remove the pan from the fire, add the vanilla, and also
two table-spoonfuls of brandy and five of sherry, if liquors
are not objectionable. Mix the sauce thoroughly, and
set it away to cool.
The above named quantities for the souffle will suffice
for ten persons. By changing the flavoring and adding
sugar accordingly endless varieties of souffle may be
made by the same recipe.
FROZEN RICE PUDDING, WITH ORANGE GLACE.
One-half cupful of rice.
One quart of cream.
Six eggs (yolks).
One pint of water.
One pint of milk.
One and one-half cupful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of vanilla.
FROZEN DISHES. 475
Wash the rice well, put it on the fire in a double boiler
with the pint of water, and boil half an hour. Drain
the rice well, cover it with all but one-half a cupful of the
milk, and boil half an hour longer. During this boiling
whip the cream, and when this has been well drained,
add that portion which will not froth and has drained
from the whipping, to the rice and milk. Set the
whipped cream in a cold place until needed. Press the
rice through a wire sieve, and return it to the double
boiler with the milk in which it was boiled. Beat the
yolks light, add to them the half cupful of the milk
reserved, and when both are well mixed, stir them into
the boiling rice and milk. Stir well, and cook until the
preparation begins to thicken ; then remove it from the
fire, add the vanilla, and turn it out to cool. When
cold, place the pudding in the freezer and freeze it
nicely. When frozen, stir in the whipped cream, remove
the dasher, scrape down the rice adhering to it, and let
the pudding remain in the freezer for two hours.
FOR THE GLACE.
One dozen oranges.
One-quarter of a lemon (juice).
One pound of sugar.
Eight table-spoonfuls of water.
Boil the sugar and the water together for ten minutes,
skim, and add the lemon-juice. Peel the oranges, sepa-
rate them into sections, and remove all the white pith
with a small knife. Dip a few of the pieces at a time in
the hot syrup, and lay them out upon a flat 'dish; and
when all have been thus treated, pour the remaining
syrup over them, and set them on the ice to cool.
4/6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
At serving time lift the mould from the freezer, wipe it
well, dip it a moment in tepid water, and turn out the
contents. Heap the oranges on top and around the
base of the pudding, and pour the syrup over the whole.
Serve at once. This is a most attractive dish.
WATER ICES OR SHERBETS.
These are made of fruit juice, sugar and water, the
simplest varieties being produced by mixing these three
ingredients together and freezing. A richer and
smoother ice, however, is made by first boiling the sugar
and water together, and then adding the fruit juice and
freezing. It takes nearly twice as long to freeze the
preparation when made with the boiled sugar and water
as when the uncooked mixture is used. The packing
must be arranged the same as for ice-cream.
Sherbets are usually served at the end of a dinner, but
they are sometimes eaten before the game instead of
a Roman punch. They may be served in glasses, in
orange baskets, in fancy paper cases or in a mould.
Sherbet is often combined with ice-cream, two layers of
the latter being allowed to one of the former.
ORANGE ICE.
One pint of orange juice.
One pint of sugar.
Rind of two of the oranges.
One quart of water.
Two lemons (juice).
Put the sugar and the water on to boil, add the grated
rind of two of the oranges, boil five minutes, and set the
liquid away to cool. When cold, add the orange and
FROZEN DISHES. 477
lemon-juice, mix well, strain through a cloth, turn the
mixture into the freezer, and freeze.
Raspberry, strawberry, cherry and other ices are made
in the same way.
LEMON ICE.
One-half pint of lemon-juice.
Rind of two of the lemons.
One pint of sugar.
One quart of water.
Make the same as orange ice.
SORBET.
This is made the same as an ice or sherbet, but it is
not frozen nearly so long, usually but twelve or fifteen
minutes. The finest varieties of sorbet are made with
a combination of several kinds of fruit. One sort is
made with the following ingredients :
One pint of sugar.
One quart of water.
One-half pint of orange juice.
One pint of chopped pineapple.
Four table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice.
Boil the water, sugar and pineapple together for
twenty minutes, add the lemon and orange juice, and
when cold strain and freeze.
ROMAN PUNCH.
This is served at dinner after the roast and is usu'ally
eaten from glasses.
Six lemons (juice).
One orange (juice).
4/8 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Two wine-glassfuls of sherry.
Two table-spoonfuls of Jamaica rum.
One and a-quarter pint of sugar.
Two and a-quarter pints of water.
Four eggs (whites).
Boil together for half an hour a quart of the water
and a pint of the sugar, add the fruit juice, and set the
mixture away to cool. When it is cold, place a quarter
of a pint of sugar and the same of water in a small sauce-
pan, set it on the fire, and boil fifteen minutes. While this
is cooking, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, beat
the hot syrup into the froth, pouring it from the sauce-
pan in a thin stream, and beating all the time. Beat
this mixture about four minutes after all the syrup
has been added, and set it away to cool. Place the
punch mixture in the freezer, and freeze for twenty min-
utes, turning the freezer all the time. At the end of
the twenty minutes remove the cover, take out the
beater, and add the wine, the rum and the whites of the
eggs, beating well with a spoon to thoroughly mix the
new ingredients with the frozen punch. Cover, and set
away for two hours before using.
If a stronger punch be desired, use for the above
quantity two wine-glassfuls of rum and two of strong
green tea, omitting the sherry.
FROZEN FRUITS.
Frozen fruits are made the same as a water ice, the
fruits being first mashed or cut up and then used without
straining. Canned fruits may be used, in which case but
half the sugar mentioned in the following recipes should
be allowed.
FROZEN DISHES. 479
FROZEN STRAWBERRIES.
One quart of strawberries.
One quart of water.
Two lemons (juice).
One pound of sugar.
Mash the berries with a wooden masher, or put them
through the potato strainer. Add to the pulp the sugar
and lemon-juice, and let all stand an hour; then put in
the water, and stir until the sugar is dissolved, after which
turn the mixture into the freezer, and freeze.
FROZEN PEACHES.
Two pounds of peaches.
One and a-half pound of sugar.
One quart of water.
Six peach kernels.
Pare the peaches, and extract the pits ; pound six of
the kernels to a paste, add them to the sugar, boil the
sugar and water together for five minutes, strain, and
set the syrup away to cool. Mash the peaches as
directed in the preceding recipe ; and when the syrup is
cold, place the peach pulp with it, stir well, turn the
mixture into the freezer and freeze. Half a tea-spoonful
of cochineal may be added, if the peaches seem
colorless.
FROZEN RASPBERRIES.
Two quarts of raspberries.
One lemon (juice).
One pint of water.
One pint of sugar.
Mash the berries and sugar together, and let them
480 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
stand for two hours ; then add the water and lemon-
juice, and freeze.
Blackberries are frozen in the same way, but the juice
of three lemons is needed.
FROZEN ORANGES.
One dozen oranges.
Two lemons (juice),
One quart of water.
One pound of sugar.
Rub the rind of three of the oranges well into the
sugar; then peel the oranges, open the sections, and
take out all the cells or pulp. Add to the orange the sugar
and lemon juice, and let the whole stand an hour ; then
put in the water, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and
freeze.
FROZEN APRICOT.
One can of apricots.
One pint of sugar.
One quart of water.
One pint of whipped cream (if desired).
Cut the fruit into very small pieces, and add the water
and the sugar. As soon as the sugar is dissolved, freeze
the mixture ; when it is partly frozen, stir in the whipped
cream, and finish the freezing. The cream may be
omitted, if not at hand.
CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES.
"Custards for supper and an endless host of such lady-like lux-
uries."
SHELLEY.
BOILED OR SOFT CUSTARD.
One pint of milk.
Three eggs (yolks).
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One-quarter of a tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
A boiled custard is much smoother when made with
only the yolks of the eggs. If a quart of custard is
desired, five large eggs will be sufficient. Place all but
half a cupful of the milk on the fire in a double
boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs thoroughly, and add
to them the half cupful of milk reserved. When the
milk on the fire boils, turn into it the egg mixture, add-
ing a little at a time, and stirring constantly. A boiled
custard requires careful watching to prevent it breaking.
The cook may readily discover when the milk is thick by
the manner in which the spoon goes through it. The
moment the custard has thickened remove it from the
fire. At no time does a custard require more than two
minute's boiling after the eg<;s are added, and sometimes
3 1 481
482 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
it will thicken in one minute, especially if the eggs are
particularly nice and fresh. On taking the custard from
the fire add the salt and seasoning, and set it away to
cool.
Many cooks direct the mixing of the yolks with the
sugar only and adding them to the boiling milk in this
way; but the writer has never found this a success, as
the yolks grain and the custard does not become smooth.
When adding eggs to any boiling liquid, they should
always be thinned with water or milk.
FLOATING ISLAND.
This is made with the ingredients mentioned in the
preceding recipe. While the milk in the boiler is heat-
ing, have ready the whites of the eggs stiffly, beaten, and
place them by spoonfuls on the boiling milk, placing
no more than can easily float. Cook two minutes, turn
each spoonful of egg, and cook the other side two
minutes also ; then lift the eggs from the milk upon a
skimmer, and place them in a wide, shallow dish. Put
more spoonfuls of the raw egg in the milk, and repeat the
same process until all the egg has been cooked. These
pieces are the " islands." When all are cooked, send the
milk through a strainer, measure it, add sufficient more to
make one pint, and return it to the boiler to heat. When
scalding, make a soft custard with the yolks of the eggs, as
in the preceding recipe. Pour the custard under the
eggs, place the whole in the ice-chest, and serve as cold
as possible.
MERINGUE CUSTARD.
This is made the same as soft custard. When the cus-
CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES. 483
tard is made, set it aside in a rather small dish to cool.
Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add to them two table-
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and stir well. Heap the
egg on a plate about the size of the top of the dish in
which the custard was placed, and stand it in the oven in
a good heat to brown delicately. When brown loosen the
meringue from the plate, and slide it off gently on top of
the custard. Serve very cold with sponge-cake.
SOFT CUSTARD WITH CORN-STARCH.
One pint of milk.
Two eggs (yolks).
One-half cupful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of corn-starch.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
Place two table-spoonfuls of the cold milk with the
corn-starch, and stir well. Beat the yolks light, add the
same quantity of milk to them, stir until smooth, and
then place them with the dissolved corn-starch. Set the
rest of the milk on the fire in a double boiler, and when
it is scalding, stir in the mixture of egg and corn-starch.
Cook three minutes, season, and set aside to cool. Cus-
tard with corn-starch is not hard to make, as there is little
or no danger of its breaking.
BAKED CUSTARD. .
Four eggs. /
One quart of milk.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Two-thirds cupful of sugar.
One-quarter of a nutmeg, grated.
484 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Beat the eggs, both yolks and whites, well together,
and add to them the milk, stirring it in by degrees ; then
put in the salt. Stir the nutmeg into the sugar, and add
this also, beating well. Let the whole stand ten minutes
until the sugar is dissolved ; then pour the mixture into a
small pudding-dish, and bake. Baked custard should
never boil, but the heat should be moderate. When a
knife-blade inserted in the custard will come from it clear
and not milky, the custard has baked enough. This cus-
tard may also be cooked in cups made for the purpose.
Set the cups in a pan of boiling water, and place the pan
in the oven, baking the custard in this way. When done,
lift the cups from the water, and set them away to cool.
When the nutmeg is mixed with the sugar, it will be
found evenly distributed through the milk, and will not
all float on top.
CUSTARD Souffle.
This makes a delicious dessert, but is rather an expen-
sive one. It is served hot and admits of no delay after it
is cooked.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two table-spoonfuls of flour.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
Four eggs.
Rub the butter into the flour. Place on the fire in a
milk boiler or a small sauce-pan all but two table-spoon-
fuls of the milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, and
add to them the milk reserved. When the milk on the
fire boils, add it by degrees to the flour and butter, stir-
CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES. 485
ring carefully. Replace the milk in the sauce-pan, cook
it eight minutes; then add tiie yolks of the eggs and
sugar, remove the mixture at once from the fire, and
set it aside to cool. When cold, add the whites of the
eggs, beaten stiff, and bake in a buttered pudding-dish for
twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve at once with
CREAM SAUCE.
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of powdered sugar.
One-quarter cupful of cream or milk.
( Four table-spoonfuls of wine, or
{ One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
If the extract is used instead of the wine, four table-
spoonfuls additional of cream or milk should be used.
Rub the butter to a cream, and add the sugar, beating all
the time. When light and creamy, gradually add the
wine, and then the cream, a little at a time. When the
mixture is quite smooth, set the bowl containing it in a
basin of hot water, and stir until the whole is smooth and
creamy, but no longer ; it will take a few minutes. This
is a very fine sauce, and if well beaten, and not kept in
the hot water long enough to melt the sugar, it will be
white and foamy throughout.
CREAMS.
There are no more delicious desserts made than those
in which cream is used. They are exceedingly easy to
make, and as they may be prepared some time before din-
ner, they have the advantage of being out of the way
when the meal is being prepared. These dainties are
486 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
very cheap in the country, where cream is plentiful, and,
in fact, they are not expensive in the city, since cream,
when whipped, is more than doubled in quantity. For
whipping cream, see page 471.
PLAIN WHIPPED CREAM.
Sweeten the cream to taste, and add vanilla to flavor
rather strongly ; then whip the cream light, set it on
the ice until cold, and serve. Whipped cream may be
eaten in many ways. With strawberries nothing is dain-
tier. It is sometimes served in glasses, sponge cake
being passed with it.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (PLAIN.)
One pint of cream.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Sponge cake.
Mix the cream, vanilla and sugar together, and set
them on the ice for an hour, to chill thoroughly. Then
whip to a stiff froth, skim the froth off into a sieve to
drain, and whip the liquid that drains from it. All the
cream will not whip light. Set the froth on the ice, or in
a very cold place. At serving time line a glass dish with
lady-fingers or sponge cake, and turn in the whipped
cream. Loaf sponge cake is very satisfactory for this
dish. Cut the slices not too thin, and lay them side by
side on a platter or a flat dish. With a table-spoon dis-
tribute the thin cream that would not whip among the
slices, to moisten them ; then heap the whipped cream
upon the cake, and serve.
CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES. 487
CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH EGGS.
One pint of cream.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
Sponge cake.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Two eggs (whites).
Charlotte russe made in this way will be firm and will
harden sufficiently after being on the ice. Place the
sugar and vanilla with the cream, and whip as previously
directed, having the cream very cold. Beat the whites
of the eggs stiff, and add them to the whipped cream.
The sponge cake should be baked in a large sheet
on a dripping-pan Cut an oval piece from the cake
to fit the bottom of the charlotte pan, or whatever
the charlotte russe is to be served in, and cut even-
sized parallelograms to fit the sides. Fill the dish with
the cream as soon as whipped, and set it on the ice.
Should there be only sufficient cake to cover the sides,
put a paper cut the proper shape in the bottom of the
mould, and heap in the cream the same as if the bottom
were cake.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH GELATINE.
One-quarter box of gelatine.
One pint of cream.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One table-spoonful of wine.
One-quarter cupful of cold water.
One-quarter cupful of boiling water.
One-half cupful of powdered sugar.
Soak the gelatine in the cold water until it is softened.
Whip the cream, placing the froth as it is made in a pan
488 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
set in ice-water ; and when all is whipped, sift over it the
sugar, and add the vanilla and wine. Pour the boiling
water upon the gelatine, and when it is dissolved, strain
it over the whipped cream. Then stir (not beat) rap-
idly, resting the bowl of the spoon upon the bottom of
the pan, and turning the pan with the left hand while
stirring with the right. Stir until the gelatine is well
mixed with the cream, and when the charlotte is nearly
stiff enough to drop, turn it into the mould, which should
be in readiness nicely lined with sponge-cake H as directed
in the preceding recipe.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITHOUT CREAM.
This charlotte is, of course, not to be compared with
that made with cream, but it makes an excellent substi-
tute when cream cannot be obtained. 'For a three-pint
mould allow
One-third of a package of gelatine.
One quart of mijk.
Four eggs.
One cupful of sugar.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
Soak the gelatine for two hours in a cupful of the cold
milk. Beat the sugar and the yolks of the eggs together,
and add one-half a cupful of the milk. Set the rest of the
milk on the fire in a double boiler, and when it is scald-
ing, pour in the egg mixture and cook for five minutes ;
then add the gelatine., and stir until it is dissolved, after
which remove from the fire, and cool. Place the prepara-
tion in a bowl of ice-water to chill thoroughly, and when
it is very cold, add the whites of the eggs, unbeaten ; beat
CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES. 489
until the whole is thick and frothy, turn it into a cake-
lined mould, and set away to harden.
BAVARIAN CREAM.
This dessert is made of whipped cream and gelatine,
with or without eggs, fruits being frequently added to
flavor. It is served in one large mould or in individual
moulds. In making Bavarian cream, do not add the
whipped cream to the ingredients with the gelatine, until
they are quite cold and are beginning to " set " or the
cream will dissolve. The ingredients will " set " very
quickly, if placed on the ice. All varieties of this cream
make delicious charlotte russe. They are sometimes
frozen, in which case the whipped cream is not added
until the custard (or ingredients with the gelatine) is
partly frozen.
PLAIN BAVARIAN CREAM.
This is made the same as charlotte russe with gela-
tine (see page 487), omitting the wine.
VANILLA BAVARIAN CREAM.
One pint of cream.
One pint of milk.
Four eggs (yolks).
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
One-half cupful of cold water.
One-half box of gelatine.
Whip the cream light, skimming the froth off, and lay-
ing it on a sieve to drain. When all is whipped, set the
sieve in a cold place until the cream is needed for use.
496 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOO^.
Place the gelatine in the water to soak, and if required in
a hurry, set the cup containing it in a warm place ; it is
much better, however, to let it soak for two hours in a
cool place. It will soften in a warm place in half an
hour, and will then be ready for use by the time the rest
of the cream is prepared. Reserve a large half-cupful of
the milk, and place the balance on the fire in a double
boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, and add to
them the half cupful of cold milk. When the milk in
the boiler is boiling, stir in the yolks, and cook two min-
utes ; then remove from the fire, and add the gelatine
(which should be soaked by this time), straining it into
the milk. Also stir in the sugar, and when the prepara-
tion is cold, beat in the vanilla, stirring until all is quite
smooth. Then stir the whipped cream in very lightly,
until well incorporated, place the mixture in a mould or
moulds, and set it on the ice or in some cool place. The
cream should not be turned out for at least four hours, as
it requires fully that length of time for the gelatine to
harden it sufficiently.
CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM.
This is made the same as the vanilla cream in the pre-
ceding recipe, two table-spoonfuls of grated chocolate be-
ing added, and but a tea-spoonful of vanilla being
used. Melt the chocolate on the fire, placing it in a little
of the cold milk, and stirring and cooking until smooth.
Add it, strained, to the yolks of the eggs, which should be
beaten, and half a cupful of the cold milk added, the
same as in the vanilla cream ; then stir all into the boil-
ing milk, and finish as directed.
CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND GELATINE JELLIES. 491
STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM.
One quart of strawberries.
One-half pint of sugar.
One pint of cream.
One-half box of gelatine.
One-half cupful of cold water.
Carefully pick the berries over, mash them well,
squeeze them through a colander, and add the sugar to
the juice. Soak the gelatine in the water, and when dis-
solved, add it to the strawberry juice. Whip the cream
light, draining it on a sieve, and set it in a cool place
until needed. Place the juice and gelatine on the ice or
in a cold place, stir it smooth, and when it begins to
" set/' stir in the whipped cream carefully. Line a mould
with some whole strawberries, fill it with the cream, and
set it on the ice or in a cold place. Turn the cream out
of the mould when ready to serve, and send to table with
fresh strawberries arranged about it.
PEACH BAVARIAN CREAM.
Eighteen peaches.
One-half pint of sugar.
One and a-half pint of cream.
One-half box of gelatine.
One-half cupful of cold water.
Place the gelatine in the water to soak. Peel and
stone the peaches, cut them up fine, and set them on the
fire in a small stew-pan. Watch them carefully, adding a
little water, if needed ; but, if possible, stew them in
their own juices. Mash them as they cook, and when re-
duced to a fine, smooth sauce, add the sugar, and stir
until it is dissolved ; then squeeze all through a fine
492 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
colander, if there are any lumps. Now add to the peaches
the dissolved gelatine and half a pint of the cream, stir-
ring well, and set in a cold place. Whip the rest of the
cream, and drain well, and as soon as the gelatine begins
to set, add the whipped cream to it, turn the whole into a
mould, and place it on the ice for four hours.
APRICOT BAVARIAN CREAM.
This is made in the same manner as the peach cream,
using a pint can or a pint of apricots instead of the
peaches.
PINEAPPLE BAVARIAN CREAM.
One pineapple.
One-half pint of sugar.
One pint of cream.
One-half cupful of cold water.
One-half box of gelatine.
Soak the gelatine in the water. Whip the cream light,
drain, and set it in a cool place. Grate the pineapple,
add to it the sugar, and simmer in a porcelain-lined
sauce-pan for fifteen minutes. Add the soaked gelatine
to the pineapple, set the mixture in a cool place, and
when it begins to congeal, stir very smooth, and add the
whipped cream. Stir the cream very carefully, turn it
into a mould, and set it on the ice for four hours.
ORANGE BAVARIAN CREAM.
Three oranges (juice).
One orange (rind).
One pint of cream.
One-half cupful of sugar.
CREAMS. 493
One-quarter cupful of cold water.
One-quarter cupful of hot water.
One-quarter box of gelatine.
Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours in a
cool place. Grate into a bowl the yellow rind from one
of the oranges, and squeeze the juice from three into the
same bowl. Whip and drain the cream, and place it in a
cool place. When the gelatine is soaked, add to it the
hot water, stirring well ; and whe'n it is completely dis-
solved, pour it into the bowl with the juice. Strain this
mixture into a tin basin, set it on the ice or in a cool
place, and until the gelatine commences to thicken the
juice ; then gradually add the whipped cream, stirring
thoroughly from the bottom of the pan. Take up a
spoonful of the mixture, and pour it back ; and if it does
not immediately sink, the mixture is thick enough to
mould. It may be poured into a mould lined with
sponge cake, if desired; or an unlined mould may be
used.
SPANISH CREAM.
One-half box of gelatine.
One pint of milk.
Three eggs (yolks and whites).
Five table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One and one-half tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One-quarter cupful of water.
Soak the gelatine in the water. Place all but half a
cupful of the milk on the fire in a double-boiler. Sepa-
rate the yolks of the eggs from the whites, beat the yolks
light, and add to them the half-cupful of milk reserved.
When the milk in the boiler is boiling, stir in the dis-
solved gelatine, and cook one minute. Then add the
494 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
yolks and milk, and cook one minute longer, or until the
whole is like thick cream. Beat the whites of the eggs
stiff, and just before taking the cream from the fire, add
them to it, stir up well, and at once remove the cream
from the heat. When nearly cold, add the vanilla. Stir
well, and pour the cream into a mould, which has pre-
viously been dipped in cold water. Let it stand in a
cold place until the next day ; or if made early in the
morning and placed at once on the ice, it will be ready
for a late evening dinner. Send to table with whipped
cream, and serve with sponge cake.
AMERICAN CREAM.
One-half box of gelatine.
One-half cupful of cold water.
One cupful of sugar.
One and one-half pint of milk.
One lemon (juice).
This quantity will serve eight persons. Cover the gel-
atine with the cold water, and soak for half an hour.
Place the milk in a double-boiler, and when hot, add the
gelatine ; stir until dissolved, remove from the fire, strain
and set the mixture aside to cool. When it is cold, add
the lemon-juice and sugar, stir well, turn the cream into a
mould, and set it in a cold place over night. Serve with
vanilla sauce.
CHOCOLATE. WHIPS.
One quart of milk.
One square of Baker's chocolate (one ounce).
Two-thirds cupful of sugar.
Six eggs.
One pint of cream.
CREAMS. 495
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of salt.
One table-spoonful of boiling water.
Scrape the chocolate fine, and place it in a small fry-
ing pan with two table-spoonfuls of the sugar and the
boiling water. Heat in a double-boiler all but half a pint
of the milk ; and when the chocolate is dissolved, add it
to the boiling milk, stirring well. Beat the eggs and the
rest of the sugar together, add to them the half pint of
milk reserved, and stir the mixture into the boiling milk.
Stir until the custard thickens, add the salt, and set away
to cool. Season the cream with the vanilla and two
table-spoonfuls of the sugar, and whip it to a stiff froth.
When the custard is cold, half fill glasses with it, and
heap the whipped cream upon it ; or it may be served in
one large dish, with the cream heaped on top of the
whole. The above quantity will serve eight persons.
PEACH SPONGE.
Two-thirds of a quart of peaches.
One-half box of gelatine.
Four eggs (whites).
One cupful of sugar.
One and one-half cupful of water.
Peel the peaches, and cut them up small, measuring
them after thus prepared. Place the gelatine in half a
cupful of water, and set to soak for two hours in a cool
place; or if hurried, place it on the back of the range,
where it will dissolve in half an hour. The dessert, how-
ever, will not be of so fine a flavor if prepared by the
latter method. Boil the rest of the water and the sugar
together for fifteen minutes. Mash the peaches fine,
496 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
press them through a fine colander, and turn the syrup
over them. Place the sauce-pan containing the mixture
in another full of boiling water, and cook for five minutes,
stirring all the time. Add the gelatine, and stir for five
minutes more ; then place the pan in cold water, and stir
the sponge until it begins to cool ; also add the whites
of the eggs, well beaten, and stir until the whole begins
to harden, at which point turn it into a mould, and set in
a cold place. At serving time turn the sponge from the
mould, and send to table with cream and sugar.
STRAWBERRY SPONGE.
One quart of strawberries.
One-half box of gelatine.
Four eggs (whites).
One and one-half cupful of water.
One cupful of sugar.
One lemon (juice).
This is prepared a little different from the peach
sponge, as the berries are not cooked. Soak the gela-
tine in half a cupful of the water. Mash the berries and
add half the sugar to them ; when this is dissolved, press
the berries through ajsieve. Boil the rest of the sugar
and the water together for fifteen minutes, add the gela-
tine to this boiling syrup, remove from the fire at once,
and add the berries. Place the pan containing the prep-
aration in another full of cold water, or set it in a cold
place ; and beat the mixture five minutes, until cool and
beginning to thicken slightly. Then add the whites of
the eggs, well whipped, and beat well until the whole has
thickened considerably. Pour the sponge into a mould,
and set it away to harden. Serve with cream and sugar.
GELA TINE JELLIES. 497
GELATINE JELLIES.
Gelatine as now obtained is refined and clarified dur-
ing the process of manufacture, and this renders it unnec-
essary to use the white of eggs for clarifying, as was for-
merly the case. Many cooks, however, prefer to further
clarify it for jellies, producing thereby more dainty and
inviting-looking desserts. When the egg is used it weak-
ens the gelatine, so that a little more of the latter should
be allowed than if the egg were omitted.
The packages of all the various brands of gelatine on
the market are supposed to weigh the same two ounces
without the wrappers. Pink gelatine comes in sheets
and is sold by grocers by the ounce. It is a little more
expensive than the plain variety. Allowing half pink
and half plain gelatine will impart a rich pink tint to a
jelly or a cream. Very many desserts are now made
with gelatine, and almost invariably they should stand
over night before being used, that they may be sure to
harden sufficiently.
Gelatine has some peculiarities which many house-
keepers do not understand. If gelatine is kept any
length of time in a warm place, a disagreeable odor and
flavor will be developed ; while if soaked in cold water in
a cold place, these objectionable features will not appear.
The latter method of preparing requires more time, of
course, but by using a little forethought this need seldom
cause inconvenience.
TO CLEAR JELLY.
Allow the whites of two eggs to every three pints of
the liquid. Beat the whites not too stiff, add one cupful
498 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
of the jelly to them, and beat for one minute. Stir this
mixture into the rest of the jelly, and place the whole on
the fire where it will heat slowly ; and when bubbling, set
it back where it will keep at the boiling point for half an
hour. Keep the pan covered, and at the end of the half
hour, strain the jelly through a fine strainer, and then run
it through a flannel bag that has been wiung out of hot
water, hanging the bag up after the jelly has been poured
into it, and allowing the liquid to filter slowly through.
After this filtering process, the jelly will be found clear
and bright.
TO REMOVE JELLY FROM THE MOULD.
Set the mould in tepid water until it is evident that the
sides of the jelly are yielding a little. If the mould is
made of tin, this will require but half a minute ; but if
made of earthenware, it will take three times as long.
Lift the mould from the water, wipe it carefully, and,
tipping it a little to one side, loosen the jelly very gently
with a knife. Place a flat dish over the open part of the
mould, and turn dish and mould over simultaneously;
hold them in this position a moment, and then carefully
raise the mould.
TO SERVE GELATINE JELLY.
The manner of serving these jellies may be rendered
very attractive. Any kind of ripe, well-flavored fruit may
be embedded in the jelly, but the latter must be cooled in
layers, or the fruit will not be distributed evenly through
the mass. To effect this, put in a layer of fruit, and wet
it with some of the liquid jelly; when this hardens, cover
with the jelly, and after this has hardened, put in another
GELA TINE JELLIES. 499
layer of fruit, and proceed as before. Jellies of various
colors may be combined in layers. To make marbled
jelly, allow the first layer to but partially cool, and then
put in the second, which should be of a different color,
adding this layer by spoonfuls. Another pretty way of
serving is to cool a pink and a light-colored jelly in thin
sheets, pouring the liquid upon platters ; and when the
jelly is set cut it into tiny squares. Heap the pink
squares in the center of a large glass dish, and surround
them with the lighter kind. The jelly may also be served
in baskets made of oranges. To make these baskets,
choose large, fair oranges. With a sharp knife cut on
each side of the stem about half way through the orange,
leaving a strip about half an inch broad for the handle.
Cut the orange transversely on both sides, and remove
the sections thus made. With a tea-spoon separate the
remaining pulp from the skin, being careful not to break
the latter. Remove the pulp, and the baskets are com-
pleted. These baskets may be placed in a pan of
pounded ice and filled with the liquid jelly, or they may
be filled with the tiny squares of jelly at serving time.
The baskets should be kept in a cool place to retain their
shape, and bright ribbon will be tied about them when
filled, to render them more attractive. Still another
method is to cut each orange in halves, remove the pulp,
fill one-half with jelly, and the other with Bavarian cream,
and set the parts on the ice. At serving time put the
halves together, and tie them with pretty ribbons. Jelly
is sometimes formed in a mould with a cylindrical tube in
the center; when the jelly is turned out, fill the hollow
the tube has made with whipped cream, piling it
high.
500 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
WINE JELLY.
The following named quantities will make three pints.
If the jelly is preferred light-colored, the spice and the
pink isinglass may be omitted.
One box of gelatine.
One sheet of pink isinglass.
Two lemons.
One clove.
Two-inch piece of stick cinnamon.
One pint of sherry or Madeira.
One pint of sugar.
One and one-half pint of water.
Two eggs (whites).
Soak the gelatine and isinglass for two hours in half a
pint of cold water; then place them in a stew-pan, and
add the thin, yellow rind of one of the lemons, peeling
the rind in strips ; also add the juice of both lemons, the
wine, the spices, the rest of the water and the beaten
whites of the eggs. Stir these well together, place the
mixture on the fire, and stir for ten minutes, watching
carefully; when the jelly bubbles, draw the pan back
where its contents will be kept at the boiling point only.
Cover the pan, and let it stand for thirty minutes ; then
pour the jelly through a wire strainer, and then through a
flannel bag. Pour it into one large mould or several
small ones, wetting the moulds before using, and set in a
cool place for at least six or eight hours.
Many kinds of wine and liquor may be used in this
way, the above recipe being proportioned for sherry, Ma-
deira or port. A smaller proportion of brandy, mara-
schino, noyau or punch would make sufficient flavoring,
and a larger proportion of champagne may be used, as it
GEL A TINE JELLIES. 50 1
is not so strong. Those who think clarifying with the
whites of eggs unnecessary, and yet wish to use spices,
should steep them in the water for half an hour, then add
the gelatine and wine, and strain as directed. A very
little more water may be allowed if the eggs are not
used.
ORANGE JELLY.
Two oranges (rinds).
One pint of orange juice.
One and one-half pint of water.
One pint of sugar.
Two lemons (juice).
Two eggs (whites).
One box of gelatine.
Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a pint of the
cold water. Grate the orange rind into a bowl, pour the
juice upon it, and let both stand for two hours. Beat the
whites, stir them into the juice, add the rest of the recipe,
put all in a stew-pan and stir over the fire for ten min-
utes. When the liquid bubbles, set the pan back, cover
it, and keep the contents at the boiling point for half an
hour. Then strain as directed for wine jelly, and mould.
LEMON JELLY, NO. I.
One-half pint of lemon-juice.
One lemon (rind, grated).
One box of gelatine.
One pint of sugar.
Two and one-quarter pints of water.
Two eggs (whites).
Make the same as orange jelly.
502 THK PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
LEMON JELLY, NO. 2.
One-half box of gelatine.
One-half pint of cold water.
One pint of boiling water.
One cupful of sugar.
Two lemons (^uice).
Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours ; and
when dissolved, pour on it the boiling water, stir well, add
the sugar, and when nearly cold, add the lemon-juice.
Strain through a sieve into a mould and set away to
harden. Taste at the last, and add more sugar if
needed.
FRUIT JELLIES.
For best methods of making these jellies, see " The
Perfect Art of Canning and Preserving," published by the
Butterick Publishing Co., price fifteen cents. This is a
convenient sixteen-page pamphlet by the author of the
present work and contains in compact, readable form com-
plete instruction regarding all the processes of canning
and preserving ; and for this reason recipes and directions
for this class of household work are omitted from this
book.
TARTS, COOKIES, GINGERBREAD, ETC.
" The Queen of Hearts,
She made some tarts,
All on a Summer's day."
" MOTHER GOOSE.-"
TARTS, so called in America, differ very much from the
dainties similarly designated in England. We have learned
to call by that name very small shells of crust, which are
generally filled after cooking with a preparation made
expressly for the purpose. The tarts made by the
" Queen " mentioned above were evidently like our Amer-
ican pies that is made with no upper crust, or with nar-
row strips laid across the top and forming a kind of lat-
tice-work.
Tarts are made of pie-crust or of puff paste. No rem-
nants or cuttings of either should therefore be thrown
away as useless. Pans in which to bake the crust may be
purchased at little cost ; and the tarts are easily made
and form an agreeable addition to the home luncheon or
supper table.
TART SHELLS.
Roll thin a quantity of plain or puff paste, and cut it
out with a glass or biscuit cutter. With a wine-glass or a
smaller cutter, remove the centers of two out of three of
53
5 04 THE PA TTERN CO OK-BOOK
these circles; and lay the rings thus made on the third, in
this way building a little wall around the shell. Bake on
a baking-pan in a quick oven. When these shells are used,
no small pans are required. In using 'patty-pans, care-
fully line them with the crust, and bake quickly. When
the crusts are cold, fill them with jelly. Beat to a stiff
froth the whites of two eggs, add two table-spoonfuls of
sugar to the whites, and spread the latter on top of the
jelly in the shells. Return the shells to the oven, and
brown the egg delicately. The whites of two eggs will
make enough meringue for one dozen tarts. The mer-
ingue, of course, need not be used if not liked, but it adds
much to the attractiveness of the tarts.
APPLE TARTS.
Five apples.
Three eggs.
One lemon (juice and rind).
One-quarter cupful of butter.
Three-quarters cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of water.
Peel and core the apples, which should be tart ; and
cook them in the water until soft ; stewing them very
slowly. Beat the sauce very smooth, and when partly
cooled, add the beaten yolks of the eggs, the lemon-juice
and grated rind and the sugar, increasing the amount of
sugar if desired very sweet. Line the patty-pans with
paste, fill them with the mixture, and bake five minutes in
a very hot oven. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add to
them two table-spoonfuls of sugar, spread the egg on top
of the tarts, return the latter to the oven, and brown deli-
cately.
COOKIES. 505
ALMOND TARTS.
Three eggs.
One-half cupful of sugar.
One-half pound of shelled almonds.
Beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream, add the sugar,
and beat vigorously. Pound the almonds slightly, and
add them to the eggs and sugar. Place the mixture in
patty-pans lined with paste, and bake eight minutes.
Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add two table-spoonfuls
of sugar, distribute the egg among the tarts, "spreading it
on top, and brown nicely in the oven.
COCOANUT TARTS.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of water.
One-half of a grated cocoanut.
Three eggs.
Boil the water, sugar and cocoanut together for five
minutes. Remove the mixture from the fire, and when it
is nearly cold, add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten.
Stir all well together, pour the preparation into patty-
pans lined with crust, and bake eight minutes. Beat the
whites stiff, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, distribute
this meringue among the tarts, and return them to the
oven to brown lightly.
Many other fillings may be made for tart shells, mar-
malade, apple sauce, nicely seasoned jams, etc., being
very satisfactory for the purpose.
COOKIES.
SUGAR COOKIES, NO. I.
Eight table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Six table-spoonfuls of melted butter.
506 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Four table-spoonfuls of milk.
Two eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Flour to thicken.
Stir the butter into the sugar ; beat the eggs light, and
add them to the butter and sugar, stirring well ; then add
the milk. Sift the powder with a little of the flour, and
stir this in, adding enough more flour to admit of rolling
out the dough. Place the latter on a well floured board
and roll it thin ; then cut out the cookies with a cutter,
dip each one in granulated sugar as soon as cut, and bake
in a quick oven.
SUGAR COOKIES, NO. 2.
Two eggs.
One nutmeg (grated).
Three large tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Flour to thicken.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of lard.
One cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
Rub the butter, lard and sugar well together, and add
the eggs, well beaten, the salt and the nutmeg. Sift the
powder in a little of the flour, add this and enough more
flour to form a dough that may be rolled. Then roll the
dough, cut it ut, and bake in a quick oven.
CREAM COOKIES.
One pint of sweet cream.
Three eggs.
Flour to thicken.
COOKIES. 507
Two cupfuls of sugar.
Two tea-spoonfuls of soda.
Four tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar.
One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
One-half tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
Put the ingredients together in the same order as
directed for the sugar cookies, and bake in a quick oven.
COOKIES WITHOUT EGGS.
One and one-half cupfuls of butter.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
Two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar.
One nutmeg (grated).
Flour to thicken.
Place the ingredients together the same as for sugar
cookies, adding flour to roll as soft as possible ; and bake
quickly.
SOUR MILK COOKIES.
One cupful of butter.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
Two-thirds cupful of sour milk.
Flour to thicken.
Two eggs.
One lemon (rind and two tea-spoonfuls of juice).
One tea-spoonful of soda.
Two tea-spoonfuls of cold water.
Rub the butter and the sugar together, and add the
eggs, well beaten, the rind of the lemon and the required
quantity of juice. Dissolve the soda ill the cold water,
turn it into the milk, and stir both into the mixture.
Add flour to thicken, roll out and bake quickly.
508 77fE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
CHOCOLATE COOKIES.
One square of Baker's chocolate (one ounce).
Two cupfuls of sugar.
One cupful of butter.
Flour to thicken.
Two eggs.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One-half cupful of milk.
Melt the chocolate and butter together, add the sugar,
the eggs, well beaten, and the milk, in 'which the soda
has been dissolved. Add flour to roll out thin, and cut
into small cookies. Frost the cookies with an icing of
confectioners' sugar.
JUMBLES.
One pound of sugar.
One pound of butter.
One and one-half pound of flour.
Four eggs.
One table-spoonful of brandy.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the
eggs, well beaten, then the brandy and then the flour,
sifting the latter very lightly. Roll out the dough, sifting
pulverized sugar on the board to keep it from sticking,
and bake quickly. These cookies will be very soft when
rolled out. If not desired so sweet, use flour when
rolling the dough instead of sugar. This is a delicious
but rather expensive way to make cookies.
MOTHER'S JUMBLES.
Three eggs.
One cupful of sugar.
Two-thirds cupful of butter.
GINGER-CAKES AND GINGERBREAD. 509
Flour to thicken.
Three table-spoonfuls of milk.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
One tea-spoonful of nutmeg (if liked).
Cream the butter and sugar together, and add in their
order the beaten eggs, milk, powder, nutmeg and flour.
Caraway seed may be substituted for the nutmeg, if de-
sired, being particularly popular with children. Sprinkle
granulated sugar over the sheet of cake dough just
before cutting the jumbles out, passing the rolling-pin
lightly over all.
GINGER-CAKES AND GINGERBREAD.
It is yearly growing more difficult to make these old-
fashioned but delicious cakes satisfactorily, and the
trouble lies, not in the recipes, but in the quality of mo-
lasses used. It is not many years since it was possible
to purchase molasses that would impart a delightfully
rich color and flavor to anything in which it was used.
This difference is due to the fact that sugar was formerly
made by a process which yielded the good, dark molasses
as a regular product ; while at present it is boiled in vac-
uum pans, so that the best quality of molasses is very
scarce. The darkest molasses now comes from Porto
Rico, but this has a disagreeable flavor to many. The
next best is the New Orleans molasses, which is disap-
pointingly light-colored, but of good flavor. Molasses
may be tested by placing a small quantity of dissolved
soda in a table-spoonful ; if the molasses is good, it will
foam up in a dark, rich color and emit a pleasant odor ;
but if it turns of a greenish shade and has an unpleasant
smell, it will not prove satisfactory.
510 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
GINGER COOKIES, NO. I.
One cupful of sugar.
One cupful of butter.
One cupful of molasses.
One-third cupful of vinegar.
Flour to thicken.
One tea-spoonful of salt.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One table-spoonful of ginger.
One egg.
Rub the butter and sugar together, add the egg, well
beaten, the salt and ginger, and stir all well together
until smooth. Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, stir the
vinegar into the molasses, and add the latter to the mix-
ture. Beat all well together, and put in enough flour to
admit of rolling out properly, taking care thai no more
flour is used than is necessary to prevent the cakes
sticking to the board. Roll quite thin, cut the cookies
out, and bake them in a quick oven. These cookies
are very delicious and are especially prized by chil-
dren.
GINGER COOKIES, NO. 2.
Two cupfuls of molasses.
One cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of sugar.
One tea-spoonful of ginger.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
One-half tea-cupful of cold water.
Flour to thicken.
Place these ingredients together the same as in the pre-
ceding recipe, dissolving the soda in the cold water.
Roll the dough thin, having added no more flour than
GINGER-CAKES AND GINGERBREAD. 5 I 1
will keep the dough from sticking to the board. Cut out
and bake in a quick oven.
GINGER COOKIES WITH COFFEE.
One cupful of molasses.
One cupful of strong coffee.
One cupful of brown sugar.
One-half cupful of lard.
One-half cupful of butter.
One table-spoonful of ginger.
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
Three tea-spoonfuls of cold water.
Flour to thicken.
Beat the butter and lard well together. Dissolve the
soda in the water, and stir it into the molasses, which
add to the butter and lard. Add the spice and coffee and
sufficient flour to make a soft dough ; roll the dough
three-quarters of an inch thick, cut the cakes out, and
bake them fifteen minutes in a rather quick oven.
GINGER SNAPS.
Two cupful s of molasses.
One-half cupful of butter.
Flour to thicken.
Two tea-spoonfuls of ginger.
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-half tea- spoonful of allspice.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
Place the molasses and butter on the fire in a stew-pan,
and scald them well. Set the pan aside, and when the
molasses has cooled, add the rest of the ingredients, put-
ting in only enough flour to make the dough roll nicely.
Bake the snaps in a quick oven.
5 1 2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
GINGER-CAKES.
One pint of molasses.
One cupful of brown sugar.
One cupful of hot water.
Ten table-spoonfuls of melted lard.
One table-spoonful (scant) of soda.
One and one-half table-spoonfuls of ginger.
Flour to thicken.
Dissolve the soda in the hot water, and add it to the
molasses. Place the lard and sugar together, and stir
with them the molasses and the ginger, and flour to roll
out. Bake in a quick oven.
GINGER DROP-CAKES.
One cupful of molasses.
One cupful of sugar.
One cupful of hot water.
One-half cupful of butter.
Four and one-half cupfuls of flour.
One egg.
One table-spoonful of ginger.
One table-spoonful of soda.
Mix as directed in the preceding recipe ; drop the mix-
ture by spoonfuls into a buttered baking-pan, and bake in
a rather quick oven.
SOFT GINGERBREAD.
One cupful of sour milk.
One cupful of molasses.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One table-spoonful of ginger.
One table-spoonful of vinegar.
Five table-spoontuls of melted lard.
Flour to thicken,
GINGER-CAKES AND GINGERBREAD. 513
Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, add it to the molasses,
and stir well. Turn the molasses into the sour milk, stir
until well mixed, and add the rest of the ingredients.
The success of this bread depends on the amount of flour
used being exactly right. The batter should be so thin,
that the track left by the spoon in stirring disappears at
once. When well made the cake is delicious.
\
SUGAR GINGERBREAD.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
Three cupfuls of flour.
Two-thirds cupful of butter.
Two eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
One table-spoonful of ginger.
Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat the
sugar into it ; then add the ginger, the eggs, well beaten,
the milk, and finally the flour mixed with the baking-
powder. This is not baked as a single loaf, but in four
buttered shallow cake-pans. Bake for fifteen minutes in
a quick oven, and on taking the cake from the oven,
sprinkle it with sugar, cut it into broad strips, and spread
these on a dish to cool. The cake will, of course, be very
thin.
SPICED GINGERBREAD.
One cupful of molasses.
One cupful of boiling water.
One large table-spoonful of butter.
One pint of sifted flour.
One tea-spoonful of cloves.
One tea-spoonful of ginger.
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
33
5 14 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
Partly melt the batter, and put it in the molasses.
Dissolve the soda in the water, and add the latter to the
molasses. Then add the rest of the ingredients, and bake
for three-quarters of an hour in a well-buttered tin.
CAKE.
" With weights and measures just and true,
Oven of even heat,
Well-buttered tins and quiet nerves,
Success will be complete."
ANON.
CAKE and pastry are not included among the neces-
saries of life, and therefore, if good materials cannot be
afforded for their making, it is much wiser not to provide
them for the family at all. In no department of cooking
does the average housewife need less instruction than in
cake-making, for it is the one branch of cookery that
nearly every American girl learns. There are, however,
a few principles which, if acted upon, will make the work
easier and the results more certain.
Accuracy in proportioning the materials is indispen-
sable. The baking is usually the most difficult part. See
that there is enough coal on the fire to last through the
baking ; and be sure to have the oven ready to receive
the cake as soon as it is mixed, for the oven can wait for
the cake, but the cake can never wait for the oven.
For most kinds of cake the oven should be rather slow,
but there should always be a steady heat. If it is too hot
for sponge cake, it will cause the cake to rise and fall
again. A good test for sponge cake is to put a piece of
5 1 6 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
white paper in the oven and close the door for five min-
utes. If the paper is then of a rich yellow hue, the oven
is right ; but if of a light yellow, it is too cool, or if of a
dark brown, it is too hot. Should the oven by any acci-
dent be found too hot after the cake is in, so that the
cake browns almost at once, lift a lid off the stove, and
cover the cake with a well buttered paper. The cake will
not be so fine, but this is the only course to be pursued.
Measure everything carefully before beginning. The
sugar used should be the fine granulated. Powdered
sugar makes a dry cake, while coarse granulated sugar
does not melt, so that cake made with it is coarse and
heavy. Cookies, layer-cakes and small cakes require a
rather quick oven. The paper used in testing should
turn a dark brown in five minutes. Never move a cake
in the oven, unless it is a layer-cake ; and do not put any-
thing in the oven while a cake is baking, or the cake will
surely fall.
If necessary to look at a cake while baking, do so as
quickly as possible ; and never throw the door of the
oven wide open for the purpose. Also be careful not to
jar a cake while it is baking ; shut the door of the oven
very gently. Let loaf cake partially cool in the pan be-
fore taking it out. A delicate cake is often made heavy
by disturbing it while too hot. Never run straws or
splints into a cake to test it ; a very little experience in
cake-making will teach the beginner when the cake is
done. A reliable guide is to watch for the separation of
'the cake from the sides of the tin ; when this takes place,
the straw may be entered, if desired. But the main ob-
jection to using a splint or fine knitting-needle, as some
recommend, is that if the cake is not quite baked, the air
CA KE. 5 1 7
flows through the hole thus made, and the cake falls in
consequence.
Always sift the flour before measuring, unless the
recipe orders the reverse. As flour differs in thickening
qualities, a little inspection should be made of the first
baking of cake from a package of flour to determine
just how much is needed. When the cake rises in the
center and cracks open, too much flour has been
used.
In a recipe that calls for two tea-spoonfuls of baking-
powder, two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar and one of
soda may be used instead. Sift the cream of tartar with
the flour, dissolve the soda in a table-spoonful of cold
water, and add it to the cake before the whites of the
eggs.
Of the makes of baking powders there is no end, and
each kind seems to furnish unimpeachable testimonials
from chemists as to strength, purity, etc. The writer, hav-
ing tried several kinds, has found that while the "Royal "
makes fine bjscuit and other edibles of the same nature,
it does not make as good cake as the " Cleveland," which
is, perhaps, the best on the market for that purpose.
This powder makes a fine-grained, spongy cake, much
lighter, with the same materials, than that in which
" Royal " has been used. The writer has tested this
point with a considerable interest, and always feels sure
of her cake when the " Cleveland " powder is at hand.
The " Royal " powder produces a coarser grained cake,
as if the sugar was too coarse.
Fruit, such as raisins, currants, etc., should not be
washed just before using, as, even when the cake is well
done, the water softening the fruit would make it
5 1 8 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
heavy and cause it to sink to the bottom. When the
fruit is received from the grocer, pick over the raisins and
currants, wash them, rub the currants in a coarse towel to
dislodge the minute stems, and dry both thoroughly on
tins. Leave the fruit in a warm place all day, to make
sure it is perfectly dry, and put it away in closely covered
tin cans. When neede4 for subsequent baking, the cur-
rants require only to be well floured, and the raisins to
be seeded and floured. This will be found a most con-
venient plan.
Never melt or warm the butter, unless so directed in
the recipe. Beat it to a cream with the sugar.
Use cups of uniform size to measure all materials.
In baking fruit cake, always line the tins with well-
buttered paper, fitting it neatly. Grease the cake pans
with butter. Lard, which many recommend, is of ques-
tionable advantage for this purpose. If the butter is very
salt, wash the salt from it before using.
Never mix cake in a tin basin, but alway use an
earthenware dish ; for, when the butter and sugar are
rubbed together, they will be found much darkened
by the tin. Mix the spices with the flour or the
sugar.
The whites of the eggs will beat up quickly if the eggs
are kept in a cool place. Add a pinch of salt to the
whites before beating, as salt is cooling. Use a fork in
beating the whites, instead of the egg-beater, unless the
work must be hurried, as more froth may be produced
with the fork than with the beater.
In rubbing the butter and sugar together, use a spoon
instead of the hand.
To keep cake fresh, place it in a tightly covered tin box.
CAKE, 519
WEDDING FRUIT CAKE.
One pound of brown sugar- Two cupfuls of molasses.
One pound of butter. One wine-glassful of brandy.
One pound of flour. One-half ounce of mace.
Four pounds of raisins. One-half ounce of cinnamon.
Three pounds of currants. One-half ounce of nutmeg.
One pound of citron. One-half ounce of cloves,
Ten eggs.
Seed the raisins, and chop them rather coarsely.
Wash the currants, scrub off the little steins by vigorously
rubbing the currants in a coarse towel, and dry the fruit
well before using. Cut the citron in rather small pieces.
Sift the flour, put in it all the spice, and sift again to
thoroughly mix. Rub the butter and sugar together until
they form a light cream. Separate the whites and yolks
of the eggs, beat the yolks light, and add them to the
butter and sugar ; then add the molasses and the brandy,
stirring well after each addition. Sift a little of the flour
on the raisins and currants, and stir the rest of it into the
mixture, beating until smooth ; then add the fruit, and
lastly the beaten whites of the eggs. Line two medium-
sized cake tins with well-buttered paper, divide the mix-
ture between them, and bake two hours in a slow oven.
This makes a fine wedding-cake, and it will last for years.
Keep it in a stone or tin jar in a cool place. Cut in
small squares for serving. The cake is very rich, and
much at a time is not required.
PLAIN FRUIT-CAKE.
One cupful of butter. Two tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon.
Two cupfuls of brown sugar. Two tea-spoonfuls of cloves.
One cupful of molasses. Two tea-spoonfuls of mace.
520 THE PATTERN COOK-BOO PC.
One cupful of strong coffee. One nutmeg (grated).
Four and a-half cupfuls of flour. Two pounds of raisins.
Four eggs. Three-quarters of a pound of citron.
Two tea-spoonfuls of soda. Two pounds of currants.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream r and add the
beaten yolks of the eggs. Heat the coffee, and then
stir in the soda. As soon as the latter is dissolved, turn
the coffee into the molasses, stir well, and add to
the butler and sugar. Sift the spices and the flour
together ; seed and chop the raisins coarsely ; clean the
currants, as directed in the preceding recipe ; and cut the
citron in small pieces. Sift a little of the flour over
the fruit, stir the rest of it into the mixture, and when
well beaten, add the fruit. Lastly, add the beaten whites
of the eggs. Bake in one large or two medium-sized tins
for an hour and a-half In a rather slow oven, first lining
the tins with well-buttered paper.
WHITE FRUIT CAKE.
One cupful of butter. One pound of figs.
Two cupfuls of sugar. One pound of dates.
Two and a-half cupfuls of flour. One pound of almonds.
Seven eggs (whites only). One pound of raisins.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking- Three-quarters of a pound of cit-
powder. ron.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream. Chop the fruit
rather coarsely, keeping each variety separate from the
others while chopping, and afterward mixing all lightly
together with the fingers. Sift some of the flour over the
fruit, place the powder in the rest of the flour, and sift
the flour again to mix thoroughly. Then add the flour to
the butter and sugar, stir in the fruit, and lastly add the
CAKE, 521
beaten whites of the eggs. Bake slowly in two medium-
sized tins for an hour and a-half. Line the tins with
buttered paper.
POOR MAN'S FRUIT CAKE.
One pound of fat salt pork. One pound of raisins.
Three cupfuls of coffee (hot). One table-spoonful of cinnamon.
Four cupfuls of sugar. One tea-spoonful of cloves.
One cupful of currants. Seven and a-half cupfuls of flour.
One cupful of figs.
Chop the fat pork very fine, and pour over it the boil-
ing coffee ; let the coffee cool slightly, and add the sugar.
Chop the figs coarsely, seed and chop the raisins, and
wash and dry the currants ; then put the fruit all together,
and sift over it a little of the flour. Add the spices to
the rest of the flour, and stir the latter into the coffee and
sugar. When the mixture is well beaten, add the fruit,
and bake in one loaf on buttered paper for an hour.
SPONGE CAKE, NO. I.
Six eggs.
The weight of five eggs in sugar.
The weight of three eggs in flour.
One-half tea-spoonful'of salt.
One-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One table-spoonful of lemon extract.
Measures instead of weights are used in nearly all the
recipes given in this book, as they are more convenient
for the average housekeeper ; but in making sponge cake,
where the whole wetting depends on eggs, which vary so
much in bulk, it is wisest to decide the quantities of
sugar and flour by weight. For those who do not possess
522" TtiE PA TTEX1V COOK-B OOK.
scales it may be well to state that the weight of five ordi-
nary eggs in sugar is a full half-pint, while the weight of
three eggs in flour is a scanty half-pint by measurement.
Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, and beat the
yolks light ; add the salt to the whites, and beat them to
a dry froth ; then put the yolks with the whites, and beat
until the yellow is thoroughly incorporated with the white.
Sift in the sugar by degrees, beating all the time, and add
the extract. Sift the flour and baking-powder together,
and add them to the mixture, stirring only enough to mix
them well into the egg. Butter the pan well, and bake
three-quarters of an hour in a single loaf.
This is a most satisfactory recipe. When the cake is
baked, it will have a delicious sugar coat on the top,
resulting from sifting in the sugar a little at a time.
Sponge cake should never be cut with a knife. Instead,
break it in pieces, and serve on a cake-dish. This
makes, perhaps, a rather untidy-looking dish ; but the
cake is rendered heavy by the use of a knife.
SPONGE CAKE, NO. 2.
Three eggs.
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One and a-half cupful of flour.
One -and a-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
Two tea-spoonfuls of lemon or vanilla extract.
One-half cupful of boiling water.
Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs light separately ;
then place them together, and beat again. Sift in the
sugar a little at a time, and add the flavoring, and the
flour, into which has been stirred the baking-powder.
Beat all well together, and at the very last stir in the hot
CAKE. 523
water. Bake in one loaf in a well buttered tin for three-
quarters of an hour. Break for serving.
WATER SPONGE CAKE.
Four eggs.
Two cupfuls of pulverized sugar.
Two cupfuls of flour.
One-half cupful of water.
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, and beat them
first separately and then together. Sift in the sugar a
little at a time, then add the vanilla and the flour, and
lastly beat in the water quickly. Bake half an hour in a
moderately quick oven. Break the cake for serving.
WHITE SPONGE CAKE.
Ten eggs (whites).
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One cupful of flour.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
Two tea-spoonfuls of lemon extract.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Add the salt to the whites of the eggs, and beat them
stiff. Gradually sift in the sugar, and add the lemon
extract. Stir the powder into the flour, and add the lat-
ter to the eggs, beating lightly but mixing thoroughly.
Bake in one loaf for three-quarters of an hour in a well
buttered tin. Break in pieces when cold, to serve.
CANADA SPONGE CAKE.
Ten eggs (whites and yolks).
Two coffee-cupfuls of sugar
Two coffee-cupfuls of flour.
524 THE PA TTERN CO OK-B O OK.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Xwo tea-spoonfuls of flavoring.
Add the salt to the whites of the eggs, and beat them
stiff; beat the yolks light, and add them to the whites,
beating both vigorously. Then add the sugar, and
beat thoroughly ; sift the flour and the baking-powder
together twice, and add them, stirring very gently
w'th a whisk or a knife. Put in the flavoring, and bake
half an hour in two well buttered tins.
ENGLISH WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE.
One pound of sugar.
One-half pound of butter.
One-half pint of the whites of eggs.
One-half pint of milk.
One and a-quarter pound of flour.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
The above recipe is from an eminent English cook.
The apportionment of eggs may seem strange, but it cer-
tainly is a wise way of measuring, since eggs vary so
much in bulk. Rub the butter and sugar together to
form a cream, and add the milk. Sift the powder with
the flour, and add this to the mixture ; and lastly add the
whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake three-
quarters of an hour in a large, well buttered tin.
ANGELS' FOOD.
One cupful of flour.
One and a-half cupful of granulated sugar.
Eleven eggs (whites).
One tea-spoonful of vanilla.
One tea-spoonful of cream of tartar.
CAKE.
525
Sift the flour four times ; then measure it, and add the
cream of tartar, and sift four times more. Sift the sugar
through the flour-sieve three times. Beat the whites of
the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and add the sugar a little at
a time, and then the flour and the vanilla. Bake forty
minutes in a moderate oven. Do not butter the pan at
all. Lay a paper on the bottom, leaving it unoiled also.
When done turn the cake upside down, place the pan
bottom upward, and lay the cake upon it. Frost the
bottom of the cake.
COFFEE SPICED CAKE.
One-half cupful of sugar. One egg.
One-half cupful of butter. One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-half cupful of molasses. One tea-spoonful of cloves.
One-half cupful of coffee. One tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg.
Two cupfuls of flour. One tea-spoonful of soda.
One cupful of raisins.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the egg,
well beaten. Heat the coffee hot, add to it the soda, and
when' the latter is dissolved, turn the coffee into the
molasses ; then add the mixture to the butter, sugar and
egg. Seed the raisins, and chop them rather coarsely.
Sift the spices into the flour, sprinkle the raisins with a
little of the flour, and stir the rest of the flour into the
mixture. Lastly add the raisins, and beat well for at least
five minutes, when all should be very smooth. Bake in
one loaf for three-quarters of an hour.
This is a very reliable recipe. More fruit may be
added, if desired. Half a cupful of currants may be
mixed with the raisins, or a cupful of currants alone may
be used.
526 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
SPICED CAKE.
One cupful of sugar. One cupful of raisins.
One-half cupful of butter. Two eggs.
One and a-half cupful of sour One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
milk. One-half tea-spoonful of cloves.
One and a-half cupful of flour. One tea-spoonful of soda.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the eggs,
well beaten. Dissolve the soda in the milk, and add it
to the mixture. Seed the raisins, chop them rather
coarsely, and flour lightly. Sift the spice, with the rest
of the flour, and add this to the preparation, stirring
it in well. Lastly add the raisins, stir well, turn into a
, buttered tin, and bake rather slowly 'for three-quarters of
an hour.
WHITE CAKE, NO. I.
One coffee-cupful of sugar.
One-half coffee-cupful of butter.
One-half coffee cupful of milk.
One coffee-cupful of flour.
One-half coffee-cupful of corn-starch.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Three eggs (whites).
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the
milk. Sift together the flour, corn-starch and baking-
powder, and add them, beating well. Lastly, stir in the
whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake for half
an hour in a well buttered tin in a moderately quick oven.
A flavoring may be added to the cake in mixing, if
desired.
WHITE CAKE, NO. 2.
One and a-.half tea-cupful of sugar.
One-half tea-cupful of butter.
CAKE. 527
One tea-cupful of water.
Three tea-cupfuls of flour.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
Four eggs (whites).
Mix in the order given in the preceding recipe, and
bake for half an hour. This makes a very delicate cake.
POUND CAKE.
One-half pound of powdered sugar.
One-half pound of butter.
One-half pound of flour.
Six eggs.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
Two tea- spoonfuls of flavoring.
Mix in the order given for white cake, No. i, and bake
in one loaf in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an
hour.
*
CHEAP POUND-CAKE.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
One third cupful of milk.
One and a-half cupful of flour.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One tea-spoonful of mace.
Three eggs.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the eggs,
well beaten, and then the milk. ,Sift the flour, baking-
powder and mace well together, and stir them in, beating
thoroughly. Bake forty minutes in a rather quick
oven.
528 THE PA TTE-RN COOK-B O OK.
COCOANUT LOAF CAKE.
One cupful of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
One-half cupful of cocoanut.
Two cupfuls of flour.
One egg.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Three table-spoonfuls of melted butter.
Place the melted butter and the sugar together, and
stir well ; then add the beaten egg and the milk. Sift
the baking-powder and flour together, and add them,
beating vigorously. When all is smooth, add the cocoa-
nut, and bake in one loaf for half an hour in a rather
quick oven.
PLAIN LOAF CAKE.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of milk.
One and a-half cupful of flour.
Two eggs.
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One tea-spoonful of lemon or vanilla extract.
Cream the butter and the sugar together by stirring
well ; and add the milk, then the flavoring, and then the
flour, into which the baking-powder has been stirred;
lastly add the eggs, well beaten. This cake requires
little handling. Do not beat it any longer than is just
necessary to blend the ingredients smoothly together.
Bake for three-quarters of an hour. This is a very reli-
able recipe and makes a delicious cake with very little
labor.
CAKE. 529
QUICK LOAF CAKE.
One cupful of sugar. One table-spoonful of wine.
One cupful of milk. One tea-spoonful of baking-pow-
One-third of a cupful of melted der.
butter. One and a-half tea-spoonful of
Two cupfuls of flour. mace or nutmeg.
One cupful of raisins. One tea-spoonful of bitter al-
One egg (yolk only). mond extract.
Place the ingredients together in the order of the pre-
ceding- recipe, and bake for three-quarters of an hour.
This cake is most delicious when fresh, but it soon
becomes stale and dry. As this recipe makes but one
loaf, however, the cake is not very likely to become stale.
CREAM LOAF CAKE.
One cupful of sweet cream.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
Three cupfuls of flour.
Four eggs.
Two and a-half tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
One lemon (grated peel).
Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately, and
add the sugar to the yolks, stirring well ; then put in the
cream, the grated lemon-peel, the flour with the baking-
powder stirred into it, and lastly the beaten whites of the
eggs. Bake for forty minutes in a rather quick oven,
GRAHAM CAKE.
One cupful of brown sugar. Four table-spoonfuls of melted
One cupful of sour milk. butter.
One cupful of raisins. One tea-spoonful of soda.
One egg. One tea-spoonful of cloves.
Graham flour to thicken. One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-half nutmeg (grated).
34
530 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Beat the sugar and butter lightly together, and add the
egg, well beaten. Stir the soda into the sour milk, and
when it is dissolved, add the milk to the sugar and egg.
Sift the spice with a cupful of flour, and add this and
enough more flour to make a moderately thick batter.
In using graham flour it is wise to remember that it
swells considerably after being placed with a liquid ;
therefore, this cake need not be quite so thick when fin-
ished as are most varieties. Seed and chop the raisins,
sift a little flour over them, and add them at the last.
Beat vigorously for five minutes, and bake for three-
quarters of an hour in a rather moderate oven.
CAROLINE CAKE.
The following quantities will make two loaves.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
Two and a-half cupfuls of flour.
One cupful of sweet cream.
Two table-spoonfuls of butter.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Five eggs (whites).
Beat the butter and sugar well together ; add the cream,
and then the flour, into which the baking-powder has
been stirred ; and lastly put in the whites of the eggs,
well beaten. Bake in two loaves for three-quarters of an
hour in a moderate oven.
SHELLBARK (NUT) CAKE.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
One cupful of butter.
^jne cuprui 01 uune
One cupful of milk
Four eggs
CAKE. 531
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
One pint of nut-meats.
Flour to thicken.
Cream the butter and sugar together, and then add the
yolks of the eggs, the milk, and the flour with the baking-
powder stirred into it. Next add the nut-meats, chopping
them coarsely before adding ; and lastly stir in the beaten
whites of the eggs. Bake for three-quarters of an hour
in a well buttered pan in a moderate oven.
CUP-CAKES, IN GEM PANS.
These are very satisfactory, but are only good when
quite fresh. The following ingredients will make sixteen
cakes :
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of sugar.
Two eggs.
Fruit raisins or currants.
One cupful of milk.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Two cupfuls of flour.
Two tea-spoonfuls of lemon extract.
Place the materials together the same as in the preced-
ing recipe. Heat the gem-pans slightly, grease them
thoroughly with butter, and place a small table-spoonful
of the batter in each gem plate ; then lay upon the batter
three or four whole raisins well floured, or scatter over it
a few floured currants or two or three thin slices of citron.
Add another small table-spoonful of the cake-batter to
each gem, thus arranging the fruit in the center; then
bake in a rather quick oven. These are very nice cakes
for children (if cake is allowed them at all), for they are
not at all rich,
532 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
DROP CAKES.
One cupful of brown sugar. Three cupfuls of flour.
Three-quarters cupful of butter. Two tea-spoonfuls of soda.
One cupful of sour milk. One tea-spoonful of cloves.
Three-quarters cupful of mo- One tea-spoonful of cinnamon,
lasses. Two eggs.
Warm the molasses, dissolve the soda in the milk, and
add it to the molasses. Rub the butter and sugar to a
cream, and add the beaten eggs, and then the molasses
mixture. Sift the spice with the flour, and stir the
latter in ; then beat until all is smooth. Drop by
spoonfuls on a buttered baking-tin, or bake in gem-pans
or patty-pans, oiling well in any case.
ROLLED JELLY CAKE.
Two eggs.
One cupful of sugar.
One and a-half cupful of flour.
Three table-spoonfuls of milk.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Mix together the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, beat-
ing well, then add the milk and salt, and the flour, into
which has been stirred the baking-powder. Lastly stir in
the beaten whites of the eggs. Butter a dripping or
cookie pan, turn in the batter, and bake quickly in a
quick oven. When the cake is done, turn it bottom up
on a baking-board ; spread the cake with jelly, roll 'it up,
and wrap a cloth or towel about it to keep it in shape
until cooled. Cut from the end of the roll when
serving.
CAKE. 533
SPONGE JELLY ROLL.
Three eggs.
One coffee-cupful of sugar.
One coffee-cupful of flour.
Two tea-spoonfuls of lemon extract.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of water.
Put the ingredients together the same as in the preced-
ing recipe, and roll up as directed. This makes a larger
cake than the last mentioned.
MARBLE CAKE.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
Rub these to a cream, divide the cream into two por-
tions, and use one portion for the dark and the other
portion for the light part of the cake.
THE DARK PART.
One-quarter cupful of molasses.
One-half cupful of milk.
One cupful of flour.
Two eggs (yolks).
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One-half tea-spoonful of cloves.
One-half tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg.
Add to one of the portions of creamed butter and sugar
the beaten yolks of the eggs, and then the milk and
molasses. Stir the powder, spice and flour together, add
the mixture, and beat thoroughly for three or four min-
utes. It may be found necessary to slightly increase the
534 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
quantity of flour named. The track made by the spoon
in stirring the butter should not at once sink back.
THE LIGHT PART.
Two eggs (whites).
One tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One-half cupful of milk.
One cupful of flour.
Add the milk to the other portion of sugar and butter ;
then put in the flour, into which the powder has first been
stirred ; and lastly add the beaten whites of the eggs.
Place a layer of the dark part in a well buttered cake-
tin, then a layer of the light, and so continue until all the
batter is used, ending with the dark. Bake for three-
quarters of an hour in a moderate oven.
DOUGLASS CAKE.
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of raisins.
Two and a-half cupfuls of flour.
One egg.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
This cake, when properly made, is extremely delicious.
It is necessary to use pastry flour for it and fine granu-
lated sugar. The fruit may be omitted, if not cared for,
and a table-spoonful of vanilla substituted. Beat the
butter and sugar together until quite light and creamy ;
next add the beaten egg and then the milk. Seed the
raisins, chop them coarsely, and sift over them a little of
the flour. Mix the baking-powder through the rest of
the flour by sifting the two together at least twice ; beat
CAKE. 535
the flour carefully into the mixture, and add the fruit.
Then beat the batter at least three minutes, and bake
three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. The flour. ^
should be well sifted before being measured for this cake.
A chocolate icing made with confectioners' sugar will be
found particularly nice.
CHOCOLATE CAKE.
One-half cupful of butter.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
Two cupfuls of flour.
One-half cupful of coffee (hot).
One-half cupful of milk.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
Two eggs.
One square of chocolate.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the
beaten eggs, and then the milk. Grate the chocolate fine,
and add it to the coffee, which should be very hot ; stir
well, and gradually add this mixture to the butter, sugar
and eggs. Sift the powder and the flour together, add
the flour, beating well, and then put in the vanilla. Bake
in one loaf for forty minutes in a moderate oven.
EGOLESS CAKE.
One and a-half tea-cupful of sugar.
Three tea-cupfuls of sifted flour.
One tea-cupful of sour milk.
One-half tea-cupful of butter.
One tea-spoonful of soda.
One-half tea-spoonful of cinnainon.
One-half tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg.
One tea-cupful of raisins.
536 THE PATTERN COOK-BOO 'A*.
Dissolve the soda in the milk. Rub the butter and
sugar well together, and add the milk. Seed the raisins^
chop them rather coarsely, and flour them lightly with a
little of the flour. Sift the spice with the rest of the flour,
and stir the latter into the mixture, beating hard ; then
add the raisins. Bake for forty minutes in one loaf.
CUP CAKE.
One cupful of sugar.
Three-quarters cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of milk.
Two eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Flour to thicken.
Unite the ingredients the same as in loaf cake.
"i, 2, 3, 4" CAKE.
This following recipe will make two good-sized loaves.
One cupful of butter.
One cupful of milk.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
Three cupfuls of flour.
Four eggs.
Three tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Put the ingredients together the same as for loaf cake.
Divide the mixture, place it in tins, and bake.
RAISED LOAF CAKE.
Three cupfuls of warm milk.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of yeast, or
One-half cake of compressed yeast.
Flour to thicken.
CAKE. 537
Place the milk, sugar and yeast together, and add
enough flour to make a rather thick batter. Set the
batter in a warm place over night. In the morning add
One and a-half cupful of butter.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
One cupful of raisins.
One wine-glassful of wine or brandy..
One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
Two eggs.
Work the butter thoroughly into the batter before add-
ing the beaten eggs and the sugar, spice and brandy.
Seed and chop the raisins, flour them, and beat them in
at the last. Place the cake in two medium-sized tins,
and when it has risen nicely, bake slowly for fifty min-
utes.
DOUGH CAKE.
The following materials will make two loaves:
Four cupfuls of light bread dough. Two tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon.
Two cupfuls of sugar. One tea-spoonful of cloves.
One cupful of butter. One tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg.
One cupful of raisins. Three eggs.
One tea-spoonful of soda. One table-spoonful of cold water.
Dissolve the soda in the water, and add the latter to
the dough ; then thoroughly mix in the butter and sugar,
and add the rest of the recipe. Bake in two well but-
tered tins, first allowing the cake to rise in the tins until
quite light. Bread dough cake or raised cake requires
much beating to mix it thoroughly, it being frequently
necessary to use the hands to make the whole entirely
smooth.
538 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
NUT CAKE.
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
Three-quarters cupful of milk.
Two cupfuls of flour.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Four eggs (whites only)
One and a-quarter pounds of English walnuts.
Mix the ingredients the same as for loaf cake, adding
the beaten whites of the eggs last. Crack the nuts,
and reserve twenty-five perfect halves for use on the
icing upon the top ; chop the rest of the meats fine, and
stir them into the cake just before adding the eggs.
Bake in one loaf for forty-five minutes. Frost the top
with plain frosting (see page 550), and place the perfect
meats on top of the frosting, sinking them into it in
squares.
COCOANUT DROP CAKES.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of milk.
One cupful of cocoanut.
Two cupfuls of flour.
Two eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Place the cocoanut in the milk and let it soak for an
hour ; then rub the butter and sugar together, and add
the beaten eggs, the milk and cocoanut, and lastly the
flour, into which has been stirred the baking-powder.
Bake in well buttered gem-pans or patty-pans. Frost the
cakes.
CAKE. 539
CREAM MOLASSES CAKE.
One egg. One and a-half tea-spoonful of soda.
One-half cupful of sugar. One tea-spoonful of cinnamon.
One cupful of molasses. One-half tea-spoonful of cloves.
One cupful of sour cream. One-half tea-spoonful of nutmeg.
Flour to thicken. Two tea-spoonfuls of cold water.
Stir the sugar into the egg. Add the soda to the water,
and when it is dissolved stir the liquid into the molasses,
and add the latter to the cream. When the whole is well
stirred together, mix it with the egg and sugar. Sift the
spice into a little flour, and add this, and enough more
flour to make a not too thick batter. Pour the latter into
a well buttered tin, and bake for an hour.
SILVER CAKE.
One-half cupful of butter.
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of milk.
Two and a-half cupful s of flour.
Four eggs (whites).
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Place the ingredients together the same as for loaf
cake, adding the whites of the eggs, well beaten, at the
last. Bake in a well buttered tin for forty minutes.
GOLD CAKE.
One-half cupful of butter.
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of milk.
Two and a-half cupfuls of flour.
Five eggs (all the yolks and one white).
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
540 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Beat the yolks and the one white until very light, and
add them to the creamed butter and sugar. Then add
the milk, the flour into which the baking powder has been
stirred, and lastly the vanilla. Bake for forty-five minutes
in a moderate oven.
BUTTERMILK CAKE.
One-half cupful of butter.
One and a-half cupful of sugar.
Two and a-half cupfuls of flour.
One cupful of buttermilk.
One-half tea-spoonful of soda.
Two eggs.
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the
yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Mash the soda, dissolve
it in the buttermilk, and add the latter to the butter, eggs
and sugar. Stir in the flour, beat until smooth, and then
stir in quickly the beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in a
well buttered tin for forty-five minutes.
LAYER CAKES.
These cakes require a very hot oven. They should
cook in five minutes at the longest, and are not disturbed
by being turned if one side is browning too fast for the
other. Many people bake these cakes on the grate of the
oven with good success, as the heat is stronger there. In
making a layer cake that is to have a rich, sweet filling,
like chocolate, half a cupful of sugar will be found suffi-
cient, unless a very sweet cake is desired.
PLAIN LAYER CAKE.
One-half cupful of butter.
One cupful of sugar.
CAKE. 541
One cupful of milk.
One egg.
One and a-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
Flour to thicken.
Rub the butter and sugar together, and add the
egg, well beaten, and then the milk. Stir the powder
into a little of the flour, and add it, stirring it in quickly ;
then add enough more flour to make a not too thin batter.
Place the batter in three well buttered tins, and bake.
The batter for all layer cake should be so thick that the
track made by the spoon in stirring it will not at once
sink, back into the mixture. This is a good test. This
quantity will make three medium-sized layers of cake.
Place any of the fillings given (see page 544) between the
layers.
QUICKLY MADE LAYER CAKE.
One-half cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of sugar.
Two eggs.
One-half cupful of milk.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Flour to thicken.
The writer has often found this way of making layer
cake more successful than when more time and pains
are devoted to its making. Butter the three tins for the
cake first, and be sure the heat of the oven is strong and
steady. Rub the butter into the sugar, break into this
the eggs, slir them in quickly without previously beating
them, add the milk, and stir until smooth. Scatter the
baking-powder over the top of the mixture, sprinkle some
of the flour over it, and stir thoroughly, adding enough
542 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
more flour to thicken ; then pour the batter into the tins.
Cake made in this way does not require more than five
minutes' work after the materials are gotten together.
Bake quickly, and spread any of the fillings given between
the layers.
WHITE MOUNTAIN LAYER CAKE.
The following will make four large layers, thus forming
a good-sized cake:
One cupful of butter.
Three cupfuls of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
Six eggs (whites).
One and a-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
One pint of flour (sifted).
Twenty drops of extract of bitter almond.
Rub the butter and sugar to a light cream, and add the
milk and then the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff
froth. Sift the flour with the powder, and add it and the
extract. Mix all well together, divide the batter among
four tins, and bake in a quick oven. Spread plain frost-
ing between the layers, and frost the top.
RIBBON CAKE.
This cake contains three large layers, the middle one
having fruit through it. It is a large cake.
One cupful of butter.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
Four eggs.
Three and a-half cupfuls of pastry flour.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder,
CAKE. 543
Separate the yolks and whites of the eggs. Rub the
butter and sugar to a cream, add to this the well beaten
yolks, stir well, and put in the milk and then the flour
into which has been stirred the baking-powder. Lastly
add the beaten whites. Have ready buttered three long,
shallow tins of equal size. Divide the cake into three
parts, and bake two of them plain. To the third add
One cupful of raisins.
One cupful of currants.
One-quarter of a pound of citron.
Two tea-spoonfuls of molasses.
Two tea-spoonfuls of brandy or wine.
One-half tea-spoonful of mace.
One-half tea-spoonfuj of cinnamon.
Seed the raisins and chop them coarsely, wash and dry
the currants, and slice the citron fine ; then put all the
fruit together, and flour it well. Stir the fruit and spice
into the third portion of batter, and bake in the third tin.
When all the layers are done, arrange them with the fruit
cake in the middle, spreading a coat of jelly between
them. Press each cake lightly with the hand as it is
laid on, to insure the layers sticking closely together.
Trim the edges even, and frost with a plain or a boiled
frosting.
CARAMEL CAKE.
To make three large layers allow
One cupful of butter.
Two cupfuls of sugar.
One cupful of milk.
Three cupfuls of flour.
Five eggs (whites.).
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
544 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Place the ingredients together the same as for plain
layer cake, adding the whites of the eggs last. Bake in
three well buttered tins, and when done, spread between
the layers the caramel filling (see page 546).
WHITE LAYER CAKE.
One cupful of sugar.
One-half cupful of butter.
One-half cupful of milk.
Two cupfuls of flour.
Four eggs (whites).
One and a-half tea-spoonful of baking-powder.
Put the ingredients together, the same as in the pre-
ceding recipe. Bake in three layer-cake tins, well but-
tered, and spread frosting between the layers.
VARIETY LAYER CAKE.
One cupful of sugar.
One table-spoonful of butter.
One cupful of milk.
Two eggs.
Two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder.
Flour to thicken.
Make the same as plain layer cake, and bake in four
layers. When done, spread between the first and second
layers a coating of currant jelly, between the second and
third simple melted chocolate, and between the third and
fourth the cream filling (see page 545), and frost the top.
FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKES.
In arranging a layer cake it is much more satisfactory
if the bottom instead of the top of the cake receives the
filling, the bottom being much more porous and receptive.
CAKE. 545
The bottom of the layers will be much softer, and no
crust at all will form on them, if the cakes are baked on
the grate of the oven. Put the layers together as soon
as possible after they are baked ; turn one layer upside
down for the bottom, spread over it whatever filling is to
be used, lay the second sheet of cake bottom side up on
this one, spread it with filling, and so continue, placing
the top layer with the bottom side downward.
Cake baked and put together in this way will retain
whatever filling is put into it ; the layers will not press the
filling out between them as is often the case when the
crusted part receives the filling.
CREAM FILLING.
One-half pint of milk.
One table-spoonful of corn-starch.
Two table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One egg (yolk).
One-half salt-spoonful of salt.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
One-half tea-spoonful of butter.
Measure the corn-starch evenly across the spoon,
and put with it two table-spoonfuls of the milk. Add to
the beaten yolk of the egg two table-spoonfuls of the
milk, and beat well with a fork ; then put these two mix-
tures together. Place the rest of the milk on the fire in
" a small sauce-pan set in another containing boiling water,
and when the milk is boiling, stir into it the corn-starch
mixture. Stir the whole until smooth, and let it cook
four minutes, stirring all the time. Add the salt, sugar
and butter as soon as the corn-starch is thoroughly stirred
in. Then remove from the fire, stir a moment to cool the
liquid somewhat, add the vanilla, and use.
35
546 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
CARAMEL FILLING.
One and a-half cupful of brown sugar.
One cupful of milk.
One table-spoonful (scant) of butter.
One-half table-spoonful of vanilla.
Place the milk, sugar, and butter on the fire in a sauce-
pan set in another containing boiling water and cook
until thick. Take from the fire and beat it hard until
stiff. Then add the vanilla.
APPLE FILLING.
One egg (white).
One-half cupful of powdered s?ugar.
One large, sour apple.
Whip the egg to a very stiff froth, and add to it the sugar.
Grate the apple fine, stir it in very gradually, and use.
APPLE AND LEMON FILLING.
One apple (grated).
One lemon (juice and grated rind).
One cupful of sugar.
Grate the apple and the rind of the lemon, place them on
the fire with the juice and sugar, and boil for five minutes.
ORANGE FILLING, NO. I.
Two oranges (juice and rind).
Two table-spoonfuls of cold water.
Two cupful s of sugar.
Two eggs (yolks and one of the whites).
Grate the yellow from the oranges, and place the gratings
CAKE. 547
in a saucepan with the orange juice, a table-spoonful
of the water and the sugar. Set the saucepan in another
containing boiling water. Beat the yolks with the other
table-spoonful of water, and when the mixture in the
saucepan is hot, stir in the water and yolks. Let the
preparation cook a minute, when the whole should be
thickened; and just before taking it from the fire, stir in
the slightly beaten white of one of the eggs. Remove at
once from the heat, and use when cold.
ORANGE FILLING, NO. 2.
Two oranges (juice, and grated rind of but one).
Two table-spoonfuls of cold water.
One dessert-spoonful of corn-starch.
One-half cupful of sugar.
One egg.
Place the corn-starch in half of the water, and when it is
dissolved, stir in the beaten yolk of the egg, and stir until
smooth. Place the rest of the water, the juice of the
oranges and the grated rind of but one of them, on the
fire, and when the liquid boils, add the egg mixture.
Cook two minutes, and add the slightly beaten white of
the egg just before taking the filling from the fire. Cool
partly before using.
COCOANUT FILLING.
One and a-half cupful of cocoanut.
Two eggs (whites).
Four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar.
A little milk.
Moisten the cocoanut with a little warm milk, and let it
soak until well softened usually half an hour. Beat the
548 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add the sugar to
them. Spread on the bottom cake a thin layer of the
frosting of egg and sugar, and then a covering of the
soaked cocoanut, and repeat this operation until all the
layers are arranged. To what is left of the frosting, add
enough sugar to thicken, stir in the remnant of cocoanut,
and spread the mixture thickly over the top, sprinkling
dry cocoanut over the whole.
CHOCOLATE FILLING, NO. I.
One-half cupful of grated chocolate.
One-half cupful of milk. .v
One cupful of brown sugar.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
One-half tea-spoonful of butter.
Place the milk and chocolate together in a saucepan on
the fire, and stir until the whole is thick and creamy ;
then add the sugar, stir until smooth, and cook two min-
utes. Add the butter, remove from the fire, and add the
vanilla ; use when slightly cooled.
For the top of the cake either use a plain frosting, or
else apportion the filling so there will be enough left to
cover the top. Return this portion to the fire, and cook
until it is thick, stirring every minute ; then spread it on
the top, smoothing it down with a knife wet in hot water.
CHOCOLATE FILLING, NO. 2.
One-half cupful of grated chocolate.
One-half cupful of milk.
One-half cupful of white sugar.
Two tea-spoonfuls of vanilla.
One-half tea-spoonful of butter.
CAKE. 549
Unite the ingredients the same as directed in the preced-
ing recipe. This is not so sweet and rich a filling as No.
i, and on that account will be found satisfactory to many.
LEMON FILLING.
One-half cupful of cold water.
One cupful of sugar.
One even table-spoonful of flour.
One lemon (rind and juice).
One egg (yolk only).
One tea-spoonful of butter.
Place two t^fole-spoonfuls of the water on the flour, and
stir until the paste is perfectly smooth ; then add the
well beaten egg, and beat again vigorously wiih a fork.
Place the rest of the water, the sugar, the lemon-juice
and grated rind, and the butter, over the fire in a sauce-
pan set in another containing boiling water. When this
mixture is boiling, stir into it the flour mixture, cook until
it is shiny, and partly cool before using.
FROSTING OR ICING CAKE.
The old method of making frosting is no longer fol-
lowed. It used to be thought necessary to beat the white
of the egg to a very stiff froth, and then to add the sugar.
Frosting made in this way is extremely hard when
cut and after a few days can scarcely be cut at all. There
are many kinds of frosting made just now, but none are
prepared in this way, except for elaborate decorating. It
is more satisfactory to have the cake cold to receive the
frosting, for when it is hot, the sugar in the icing melts
and often runs down the sides of the cake, giving the lat-
ter a most untidy appearance.
550 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK'.
TO DECORATE WITH ICING.
It requires very little extra labor to decorate a frosted
cake, and it can be done as soon as the icing is cold and
set. Funhels having ends of different shape may be pur-
chased for this purpose. In place of a funnel, a cornu-
copia made of stiff writing-paper may be used. Cut off a
little of the point of the cornucopia, fill the latter with
frosting, and press it out at the small end, forming differ-
ent shapes according to taste.
When a name or a date is to be placed on a cake, as is
frequently the case with children's birthday cakes, etc.,
the icing may be colored with red sugar, dissolved
chocolate or cochineal. Trace the name or date on
the center of the cake with a pencil, and then follow
the lines with the frosting. An easy and very pretty dec-
oration is made by placing dry red sugar in the cornuco-
pia and running it from the small end upon the soft icing,
making a name, an initial or a date. The point of the
cornucopia should be very small for this work.
PLAIN FROSTING.
One egg (white).
Eight table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar.
One-half tea-spoonful of vanilla.
Beat the white only enough to thin it, but not so as
to make it frothy ; then acid the sugar. In measuring the
sugar have the spoonfuls even full not heaped. Stir
with a fork until the frosting is perfectly smooth and
light ; the longer it is beaten the finer it will be. Add
the vanilla, and when it is well mixed in the frosting will
be ready to use. Place all the frosting in the middle of
CAKE. 551
the cake, and press it outward until almost rolling to the
edge ; then set the cake in a current of cold air, if possi-
ble, to set the icing at once, so it will not run off the
cake ; or set it in the refrigerator. This quantity will
make a very deep frosting for one cake only, and will
really be sufficient for two ordinary-sized cakes.
When only one cake is to be iced and the frosting is
not desired thick or deep, beat the egg thin, measure a
large table-spoonful of it, and to this add four table-
spoonfuls of the sugar. This will make a frosting of
sufficient depth to suit most tastes. Frosting made in
this way will form a crust on top, under which the sugar
will keep soft.
COCOANUT FROSTING.
Thicken plain frosting with two table-spoonfuls of
prepared cocoanut, spread it upon the cake, and scatter
dry cocoanut over the icing while still soft.
CHOCOLATE FROSTING, NO. I.
One ounce of chocolate (one square)
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar.
One table-spoonful of water.
Place these ingredients together in a small frying-pan,
and stir over a hot fire until the mixture is smooth and
glossy. Let the chocolate cool, add it to plain frosting,
and use.
CHOCOLATE FROSTING, NO. 2.
Take equal parts of grated chocolate and powdered
sugar. Melt the chocolate over the steam of a tea-kettle,
placing it for this purpose in an earthenware bowl set in
552 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
the top of the kettle. When the chocolate is melted, add
the sugar and a tea-spoonful of vanilla. Stir until
nearly cool, and use.
BOILED FROSTING.
This frosting is convenient to make when there is no
powdered sugar at hand. The following will make an
ample allowance for one cake :
One cupful of granulated sugar.
One-quarter cupful of boiling water.
One-quarter tea-spoonful of cream of tartar.
One egg (white).
One-half tea-spoonful of vanilla.
Place the sugar, water and cream of tartar in a small
sauce-pan set in another containing boiling water, and
boil for six minutes. Do not stir the sugar at all, or
it will granulate. Beat the egg stiff, and gradually add to
it the boiling syrup, pouring the latter in a thin stream on
the egg, and stirring rapidly. Beat for five minutes after
the last has been added, and flavor to taste.
SOFT FROSTING WITHOUT EGG.
Twelve table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Eight table-spoonfuls of milk.
Boil these together for five minutes in a saucepan set
in another containing boiling water. Remove from the
fire, and stir very vigorously until cooled. The frosting is
then ready for use.
FROSTING WITH CONFECTIONERS' SUGAR.
This sugar makes very fine frosting and does not
CAKE. 553
require the use of an egg in the making. By confection-
ers' sugar, however, is not meant the ordinary powdered
sugar, although both are about the same price.
For a Plain Frosting. Add to four table-spoonfuls of
the sugar a scanty table-spoonful of water or milk, stir
well, and use. Add a little more sugar, if the frosting is
not thick enough.
For a Chocolate Frosting. Make the plain frosting, and
add to it half a square of chocolate, which has first
been put in a cup and set over steam to melt, being used
when thoroughly melted.
FROSTING WITH GELATINE.
One-half table-spoonful of gelatine.
One-half table-spoonful of cold water.
One table-spoonful of boiling water.
Pulverized sugar.
Lemon extract to flavor.
face the gelatine and cold water in a bowl, cover, and
let the gelatine soak half an hour ; then add the boiling
water, stir until the gelatine is dissolved, and strain it
through a fine wire strainer. Add sugar to thicken, and
a tea-spoonful of the extract. Frost when the cake is
perfectly cold.
BEVERAGES.
" If the kettle boiling be
Seven minutes makes the tea."
" Hunger is the best seasoning for meat, and thirst for drink."
TEA.
TEA is the dried leaves of the tea-plant ; these are
picked in May and June of each year, the plants usually
surviving four or five seasons. The tea-leaf contains a
larger amount of nutritive matter than any plant used for
human food, although but a small portion of this nourish-
ment is extracted by our common method of making tea.
By that method, which, of course, aims to produce a bev-
erage only, we use such a comparatively small quantity
of tea that the amount of nutriment obtained is very
little, the chief value of the drink being the sense of
warmth and comfort that it diffuses through the sys-
tem.
In making tea a tin or granite pot should not be used,
but one of either earthern, china or silver ware. When a
metal pot is used, the tannic acid acts upon the metal,
thus producing a poisonous compound. The water should
be freshly boiled and, used at the first boil, as after it boils
a few minutes it parts with its gases and becomes flat
554
BEVERAGES. 555
and hard. Pour boiling water into the pot, and let it
remain long enough to thoroughly heat the pot ; then
pour it out, put in the tea, pour over it the quantity of
boiling water required, and stand the pot on the back
part of the stove for from five to eight minutes, accord-
ing to the kind of tea used. Most varieties of tea will be
ready in five minutes, but the English Breakfast, than
which there is no better tea, requires fully eight minutes
to extract its full strength. This tea should be placed in
a greater heat than any other kind. It should be almost
hot enough to boil, but the boiling point should, of
course, never be quite reached. The quantity of dry tea
to be used for each person depends altogether upon indi-
vidual taste. The old rule, " a tea-spoonful of tea for
each person and one for the pot," is a good one to follow,
and by allowing a generous half-pint of water for each
spoonful of tea, a moderately strong brewing is obtained.
When several cupfuls of tea are required the proportion
of tea may be reduced.
ICED TEA.
This is a favorite drink in summer. Make the tea as
above directed, strain it from the leaves, and set it on
the ice for three or four hours. Serve with broken ice in
each glass.
RUSSIAN TEA.
This is made by placing -a slice of lemon in each cup
before pouring in the boiling hot tea.
COFFEE.
Coffee grows on small trees. Mocha, the best variety,
556 THE PA TTEKN COOK-BOOK.
is grown in Arabia. The fruit of the tree is something
like our cherry and contains two seeds or beans. By
bruising the fruit, the berries are separated, and they are
then washed and dried. The raw berries are tough and
contain but little flavor. Much depends upon the man-
ner in which the berries are roasted. Comparatively few
people nowadays roast their own coffee, the work being
done so well by the large establishments. Mocha and
Java mixed one-third of the former and two-thirds of
the latter is considered the most satisfactory combina-
tion by the majority of people. Buy coffee in small
quantities and unground, keep it in air-tight tin cans,
and grind it only as required. The finer it is ground, the
stronger will be the extract.
There are many kinds of coffee-pots in use, and many
are modifications of the French coffee-pot or biggin. The
coffee may be made in anything resembling the French
coffee-pot, as none of the aroma is lost, the spout of the
pot being closed with a thimble that prevents the escape
of the steam. The coffee is filtered and comes out
clear and bright.
TO MAKE FILTERED COFFEE.
The coffee should be ground as fine as the mill will
make it. Allow half a cupful of the ground coffee to a
generous quart of water; this makes sufficient for five
cupfuls of coffee. Place the coffee in the cloth or strainer
in the top of the pot, arranged for the purpose, pour the
boiling water upon it, and set the pot back, allowing the
water to filter slowly through. When it is all through,
set the pot over the heat, and when the coffee is just at
the bubbling point, pour it out, and at once return it to
BEVERAGES. 557
the top of the pot to filter once more. Do this still
again, making three times in all that the water has
been poured upon the coffee ; and serve at once. This
produces a clear, bright coffee and requires, at the most,
not longer than five minutes in the making, if the heat is
properly brisk. Coffee should be served as soon as
made, or the bright tiavor will be lost.
BOILED COFFEE. (iN COMMON COFFEE-POT.)
One cupful of unground coffee.
One egg.
One quart of boiling water.
Three table-spoonfuls of cold water.
Grind the coffee coarsely, and put it into the pot,
which should be well scalded. Beat the egg well, add to
it the cold water, and stir this mixture into the dry coffee
in the pot ; then pour on the boiling water, and place the
pot on the fire. Stir the coffee until it boils, and then
set it on the back of the stove where it will just bubble
for ten minutes. Pour a little of the coffee into a cup
and return it to the pot, to clear the grounds from the
spout. Let the coffee stand for five minutes where it
will not bubble, pour it through a fine sieve into a hot
serving pot, and send to the table at once. This makes
a very strong coffee, and more or less water may be
used, according as the coffee is liked weak or strong.
A cup of coffee is not perfect without cream. If
cream cannot be used, the next best thing for many
tastes is condensed milk. When this is disliked, hot
milk may be substituted. The milk should be heated to
the boiling point, but should not boil. Never serve cold
milk with coffee. The cups should be warmed with hot
558 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
water before being used for the coffee, as the latter can
scarcely be served hot enough and is simply a disas-
trous failure when half cold.
AFTER-DINNER BLACK COFFEE.
This is made by either of the recipes given, double the
proportion of coffee being used. It should be very
strong and clear and should be served in small cups,
with block sugar, if desired, but never with cream or
milk.
VIENNA COFFEE.
This is the same as the ordinary coffee, with the addi-
tion of whipped cream at serving.
CAFE AU LAIT.
This is made of equal quantities of filtered coffee and
boiled milk.
COCOA.
Cocoa or chocolate nuts are the seeds of a tree growing
in Mexico, the West Indies and South America. These
seeds are roasted the same as coffee, until the aroma is
brought out. They are then pounded to a paste in a hot
mortar or ground between rollers. The substance thus
produced, when mixed with sugar, starch, vanilla and
cinnamon, forms the chocolate of commerce.
Cocoa is made by grinding the bean fine, partly extract-
ing ihe oil, and mixing a small proportion of sugar with
the remaining powder.
Cocoa nibs are the bean deprived of its husks and
then broken into small pieces. This is the purest and
BEVERAGES. 559
best cocoa in our market. The shells or husks are also
used to make a weak decoction for people with delicate
digestion.
TO MAKE COCOA.
One quart of milk.
Four table-spoonfuls of cocoa.
Put the milk on the fire in a farina kettle. Moisten the
cocoa with a little cold milk, and pour it into the milk in
the kettle as soon as it boils, stirring all the while it is
being added. Stir until the milk again boils, cover the
kettle, boil five minutes, and serve. Whipped cream is
often served with cocoa.
COCOA FROM THE NIBS.
One-half cupful of broken cocoa.
Two quarts of water.
One pint of cream.
Place the cocoa and water together in the double boiler,
and boil them for two hours, when they should be reduced
in quantity one-half. Heat the cream, add it, strain, and
serve.
COCOATINA.
This is very like chocolate, but is more delicate, and is
nearly free from oil.
Two table-spoonfuls of cocoatina.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
Four table-spoonfuls of boiling water.
One and a-half pint of milk.
Place the cocoatina in a bowl with the sugar, add the
560 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
boiling water, and rub the cocoa to a paste. Heat the
milk to boiling, stir in the paste, whisk well, pour into a
hot jug, and serve. If liked stronger, more of the powder
may be used.
BROMA.
One large table-spoonful of broma.
Four large table-spoonfuls of boiling water.
One table-spoonful of sugar.
One pint of milk (hot).
Place the broma in a sauce-pan, and add the water, stir-
ring all the time. Add the milk, which should be boiling,
and then the sugar. Place the pan on the fire, stir until
the mixture boils, and serve at once.
CHOCOLATE.
When properly made, this is a very delicious drink.
As in the case of tea and coffee, tastes differ as to its
strength, one ounce of plain chocolate to one quart of
milk being, however, the proportion generally liked.
Many prefer the chocolate thick, making it so by using a
large quantity of chocolate, by putting in some thicken-
ing substance, such as arrowroot, corn-starch, etc., or by
mulling the chocolate. The small dasher that comes in
the regular chocolate pot is called the muller, and is
worked up and down the same as the dasher of a churn.
This froths and thickens the chocolate. Should there be
no muller among the kitchen utensils, the chocolate may
be made in a double boiler, and then whipped with a
cream whipper or a Dover egg beater. Whipped cream
is often served with chocolate ; it should be whipped and
drained, and may be served either plain, or slightly sea-
soned with sugar and vanilla.
BEVERAGES. 561
PLAIN CHOCOLATE,
Two squares of chocolate.
One quart of milk.
Three table-spoonfuls of sugar.
Two table-spoonfuls of water.
Place the milk in a . double boiler to heat. Scrape the
chocolate fine, and put it in a small frying-pan with the
sugar and water ; set it in a good heat, stir constantly
until smooth and glossy, and then stir it into the boiling
milk. Beat with a whisk for three minutes, and serve
hot.
A richer drink is made by doubling the amount of
chocolate mentioned above. A good chocolate is also
made by using with the same quantity (two squares) a
pint of milk and one of water. If the chocolate is de-
sired thick, mix a table-spoonful of arrowroot or corn-
starch with two table-spoonfuls of cold milk, stir this into
the boiling milk, and cook for ten minutes before adding
the dissolved chocolate. Half a tea-spoonful of vanilla
may be added to the chocolate, if cared for.
SUMMER DRINKS.
ROOT-BEER.
There is no summer beverage, perhaps, that is more
refreshing than root-beer, and it is very easy to make.
When the roots had first to be steeped and the strength
thus obtained, the making of the beer was a laborious
task ; but now, many root extracts are procurable at
little cost, and are wholly satisfactory. Hire's extracts
are among the best.
36
-62 THE PATTERN COuK-BOOK.
~
Fourteen quarts of water.
Two quarts of sugar.
Three tea-spoonfuls of extract of ginger.
One bottle of Hire's Extract.
One scant pint of baker's yeast.
Place all these ingredients together in an earthenware
jar, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and bottle immedi-
ately. The corks of the bottles should be tied securely
down or the contents will be lost. This is the difficult
part of the work, but if the common beer bottle with pat-
ent cork is to be had, it will be found most convenient,
and as they last for years, the expense is not great. Use
the beer after it has been made one week.
A recipe for making root-beer may be found in the
'package of any kind of extract sold, but such directions
can scarcely be depended upon, as each manufacturer en-
deavors to impress upon the purchaser the large quantity
of beer that can be made from a single bottle of his ex-
tract. A tasteless, unsatisfactory drink usually results
from following these formulas. Set the beer on ice be-
fore using.
HOP BEER.
Two quarts of dry hops.
Twelve quarts of water.
One quart of molasses.
One cake of compressed yeast.
Three table-spoonfuls of ginger.
One table-spoonful of wintergreen essence.
Steep the hops very slowly for two hours in two quarts
of the water ; then strain, and add the rest of the ingredi-
ents, adding the water first to make the whole tepid be-
fore adding the yeast cake, which will dissolve in the
BEVERAGES. 563
water. Let all stand in an earthen jar for twelve hours ;
then strain, and bottle tightly. This is a pleasant drink,
and a tonic as well.
PHILADELPHIA MEAD.
One quart of boiling water.
One-half pint of molasses.
Two and a-quarter pounds of brown sugar.
One-half ounce of flavoring extract.
Two ounces of tartaric acid.
Put the water, sugar, molasses and acid together; and
when the mixture is cold, add the extract, which may be
the essence of wintergreen or sassafras or any other
kind used for such a purpose. Bottle, and set away in a
cold place. To make the mead, place two table-spoonfuls
of the syrup in a glass of ice-water, stir until well mixed,
and add a-quarter of a tea-spoonful of bi-carbonate of soda
to render the drink effervescent. This is a most refresh-
ing summer beverage.
RASPBERRY SHRUB.
Place any quantity of red raspberries in a stone jar,
cover them with good cider vinegar, and let the whole
stand twelve hours ; then strain, and to each pint of the
juice add a pint of sugar. Boil ten minutes, and bottle
while hot. In using, add enough to a glass of ice-water
to suit the taste.
MOTHER'S HARVEST GINGER DRINK.
One egg.
One quart of very cold water.
One-half pint of vinegar.
One scant table-spoonful of ginger.
Three tabie-spoonfuls of sugar.
564 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Beat the egg well, add to it the sugar and ginger, stir
until perfectly smooth, and then put in the water. When
the sugar is dissolved, add the vinegar, using this, how-
ever, according to its strength, only enough being re-
quired to give the drink piquancy.
WINE, AND HOW TO SERVE IT.
The number of kinds of wine used at dinner varies
with the taste of the host or hostess. When a great dis-
play is desired, as many as twelve varieties are served,
but for ordinary dinners four is generally the limit.
Indeed, many dinners are now given at which wine is
omitted altogether, and at simple dinners there is often but
one wine, which is a choice claret or champagne. When
three wines are to be served, they usually consist of a fine
sherry with the soup, claret with the course after the fish,
and champagne with the roast. If champagne alone is
selected, it should be served just after the fish. The
following may serve as a
WINE MENU.
With Raw Oysters White Wine (Sauterne, Rhine, etc).
',; I?'} Sherry or Madeira.
" Meat, Champagne.
" Game, Claret
" Dessert, Sherry, Port or Burgundy.
Regarding the temperature at which wines should be
served : sherry should be thoroughly chilled ; Madeira
neither warm nor cold, but about the temperature of the
room ; claret the same as Madeira, and never with ice ;
and champagne can scarcely be served too cold.
BEVERAGES. 565
Wine should be unpacked as soon as possible after de-
livery, and the bottles laid upon their sides in some place
in which the changes of temperature will not be felt.
Red wines, especially clarets, should be kept dry and
warm, as they are injured more by cold than by heat.
They are, therefore, better stored elsewhere than in the
cellar. Champagne and Rhine wines withstand cold bet-
ter than heat, the latter often causing fermentation.
Sherry, Maderia and all spirits should be kept warm.
FRUIT: HOW TO SERVE IT.
' " Have you apples, good grocer ? '
' O yes, ma'm ! how many ? ' "
MARY MAPES DODGE.
THE arrangement of fresh fruits for the table affords
play for the most artistic taste. Melons, apples, oranges
indeed, all kinds of fruit are appropriate for breakfast.
APPLES.
Select for the table only those that are most sightly.
They should be wiped and brightly polished with a soft
towel. Serve in a fruit dish or a small, pretty basket.
Provide silver knives at each plate for cutting the fruit.
BANANAS.
These are served whole, the red and yellow being
mixed.
PEACHES.
Rub the down carefully off the peaches, and serve them
in a pretty basket, with peach leaves peeping through
them ; or they may be pared, sliced, sprinkled with pow-
dered sugar and sent to table immediately the sugar is
added. Serve thick, sweet cream with peaches when pre-
pared in this way.
566
FRUIT: HOW TO SERVE IT. 56?
PEARS.
These are served the same as apples.
PINEAPPLE.
Pare the fruit, remove the eyes, and pick it into small
pieces with a silver fork, beginning at the stump end and
tearing the fruit from the core. Sprinkle the shredded
pineapple with powdered sugar, and set it in a cold place
for at least one hour before it is needed.
POMEGRANATES.
Remove the outside skin, and carefully take out the
seeds, rejecting all the brown skin that divides the sec-
tions. Heap the seeds in a pretty dish, mix with them
finely chopped ice, and serve.
BERRIES.
Strawberries, raspberries, etc., should be carefully
picked over a few minutes before serving time, and
heaped on a glass dish. Pass sugar and cream with the
berries at table. Berries should never be washed. If
soiled, they should not be purchased. When berries
raised in one's own garden become soiled by a heavy
rain, they may be used, after the needed washing, in mak-
ing pies or shortcakes, but should never be served alone.
In France large strawberries are sent to table without
being hulled ; sugar is placed in the center of the saucer
passed to each person, and the strawberries are taken by
the hulls between the thumb and finger, dipped in the
sugar and so eaten.
568 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
CURRANTS.
Stem the currants, and heap them on a dish in rows of
red and white, placing a border of leaves around the out-
side. This fruit is also served unstemmed, in which
case large clusters should be selected. They should be
rinsed by being dipped repeatedly in cold water, and then
drained on a sieve. Arrange the clusters on a pretty
dish, and serve in saucers around a small pyramid of
powdered sugar, the fruit when eaten being dipped in the
sugar and eaten from the stem.
GRAPES.
If the grapes are at all soiled, or if they are Malagas,
they should be rinsed in cold water and drained on a
sieve, after which they may be arranged on a pretty bas-
ket. Fruit scissors should accompany the basket, with
which to divide the clusters, if desired.
ORANGES.
There are many fancy ways of cutting oranges for serv-
ing, but these always produce a strained effect that im-
presses the beholder with an unpleasant hint of vulgar-
ity. It is, therefore, wiser to serve this fruit plain. At
table they may be cut crosswise and eaten with a
spoon, or they may be separated into sections and eaten
thus from the ringers.
WATERMELON.
This should be thoroughly chilled before being used.
There are many ways of cutting. The melon may be
simply cut in two, and a slice cut from each convex end
so that the portions will stand firmly on the platter. In
FRUIT: HOW TO SERVE IT. 569
serving the pulp is scooped out with a table-spoon.
Another method of serving that produces a very attract-
ive dish consists in peeling the entire melon, leaving only
the red ball, which is sliced at table.
CANTALOUPES.
These are cut in halves and the seeds carefully re-
moved, half a melon being passed to each person ; and
they should be very cold for serving.
They may be eaten with a spoon or fork, and salt
should be at hand for those who desire it. The half mel-
ons are often sent to table filled with pounded ice.
HOW TO ICE FRUITS FOR SERVING.
Currants, plums, grapes, cherries and many other fruits
make a most refreshing and appetizing breakfast dish
when iced. This is done in the following manner : Beat
the white of an egg just enough to thin it ; dip the fruit in
the egg, and while still moist, roll it in powdered sugar,
and place on a sieve to dry. This work, of course,
should be done the previous day.
COOKED FRUITS.
BAKED APPLES, NO. I.
Use sweet apples for baking. Cut out the blossom
ends, wash, but do not pare the apples, and place them
in a large pudding-dish ; pour a cupful of water into the
dish, cover the latter closely with another dish or a pan,
set it in a moderate oven, and bake the apples until
tender. Remove them from the dish, pour the juice over
them while hot, and repeat this as they cool. Set the
apples on the ice, and at serving time transfer them to a
570 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
glass dish, pouring the juice over them again. Eat with
powdered sugar and cream. Apples will not brown when
baked in this way, but will be deliciously flavored.
BAKED APPLES, NO. 2.
Select tart apples, and pare them or not, as preferred.
Extract the cores without breaking the apples, fill the
cavities thus formed with sugar, sift a little cinnamon on
top, and add an-eighth of a tea-spoonful of butter to
each apple. Place the apples in an earthenware baking-
dish, cover the bottom with water, and bake until the
fruit is soft, basting occasionally with the syrup.
QUINCES.
These are baked in the same manner as directed in the
preceding recipe, the spice being omitted. Quinces
require a long time in baking, and frequent basting.
APPLE SAUCE.
Pare, core and quarter tart apples ; place them in a
granite-ware kettle with enough water to keep them from
burning, and cook until tender. Turn them into a col-
ander, pulp them through, and season to taste with sugar
and a little powdered cinnamon. Return the sauce to the
kettle, stew it slowly, until the sugar is thoroughly dis-
solved, and set it on the ice.
STEWED APPLES.'
Pare, core and quarter tart apples. Make a syrup of a
cupful of sugar, two-thirds of a cupful of water and a
little lemon-peel. When the syrup boils, add the apples,
and cook carefully until they are tender but not broken.
FRUIT: HOW TO SERVE IT. 571
Remove them carefully, boil the syrup down a little, and
strain it over the apples.
SPICED APPLES.
Place one cupful of sugar and three cupfuls of water in
a granite-ware pan, and add eight cloves and a three-inch
piece of cinnamon or a bit of ginger root. Closely cover
the pan, and boil slowly for fifteen minutes. Wipe a
number of small, tart apples, extract the stem and blos-
som ends, and cook the fruit in the syrup until tender,
taking care that the apples are not broken. Lift them
out into a dish, boil the syrup until reduced one-third,
and strain it over the apples.
SPICED PEARS.
These are prepared the same as spiced apples ; but if
the pears are dry and hard, they should be parboiled
slowly in clear water before being cooked in the syrup,
as the sugar will harden them, and they will .not be-
come tender if put into the syrup for the entire cook-
ing.
STEWED PRUNES.
Wash the prunes carefully, and if hard and dry, soak
them an hour in cold water before cooking. Place them
in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware kettle, with boiling
water to cover. Cover the kettle closely, and boil slowly
until the prunes are swollen and tender. Then add two
table-spoonfuls of sugar to every pint of prunes, and boil
a few minutes longer, but not long enough to break the
skins. If the prunes lack flavor, add a little lemon-juice.
5/2 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
RHUBARB SAUCE.
Peel the rhubarb, and cut it into inch lengths ; place it
in a granite-ware stew-pan, and for each quart of rhubarb
add a tea-cupful of sugar and half a cupful of water.
Stew slowly until tender.
BAKED RHUBARB SAUCE.
Proceed as in the preceding recipe, and after adding
the water and sugar, place all in an earthenware baking-
dish. Cover the dish, and bake slowly for two hours.
The rhubarb will be found of a rich color when done, and
it will not have cooked to pieces.
SAUCE OF DRIED FRUITS.
This may be made of evaporated apples or peaches or
of dried berries or plums. If apples or peaches are used,
wash them carefully in cold water, rubbing them between
the hands the same as in washing rice. Place the fruit
in a large bowl, allow a quart of water to each pint of
fruit, and leave the latter to soak over night. In the
morning put both fruit and water in a granite-ware sauce-
pan, add a cupful of sugar, and, if apples are used,
also put in the juice of one lemon. Set the pan on the
back of the range and cook slowly for three hours, not
stirring the fruit while cooking. When done, turn the
sauce into a bowl, and set it away to cool. Berries
require careful washing, and will cook tender much more
quickly than apples, but they must be soaked over night
in order to be of proper flavor when done. Plums re-
quire a large amount of sugar in cooking, the quantity
varying according to the kind used.
COOKERY FOR THE SICK.
" Of herbs and other country messes,
Which the neat-handed Phillis dresses."
MILTON.
A GOOD nurse is now considered of as much impor-
tance in the sick-room as a skillful physician. Not the
least among the nurse's duties is to provide food for the
sufferer food that shall be palatable and inviting and at
the same time nourishing and wholesome. Every mother
of a family ought to know how to cater to the fitful appe-
tite and weak digestion of an invalid. The three great
events of the day to the poor bedridden patient are the
three meals, and these should be most delicately and
carefully prepared.
The sick person should not be asked what he would
like to have served, for he will surely sicken of food with
the effort of selection and will very likely end by saying,
" Nothing at all ! " He should be watched carefully and
the slightest intimation of a desire for any particular
delicacy should be immediately considered ; and if the
desired food will 'not prove injurious, it should be pre-
pared at once, and without the patient's knowledge, if
possible, so it may prove a complete surprise. By all
means make every dish, no matter what its nature, as
573
5 74 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK,
dainty and attractive looking as may be, and be sure it is
well cooked. The eye, -as well as the palate, of the
patient is to be considered ; therefore, serve the invalid's
meals on the choicest ware you possess, accompanied by
the snowiest of napkins and the brightest of silver.
Only a little food should be served at a time, for fear of
frightening away the wavering appetite by the sight of
much food. A bit of green on a chop or steak will add
much to the daintiness of the dish.
All through the present work are given recipes for
dishes that an invalid may eat with pleasure and safety.
Among these are nearly all the soups, carefully cooked
meats and fish, all kinds of bread (if not fresh), cooked
fruits, simple puddings, in the making of which no fat is
used, jellies, creams and other light desserts. Re-cooked
meats, fish or vegetables should never be offered to an
invalid. Milk is now given in all kinds of illness ; and
when it does not agree with the patient, a table-spoonful
of lime-water added to each glassful will generally pre-
vent any disagreeable consequences. Hot milk is con-
sidered a good stimulant after much fatigue. It should
not be allowed to boil, but should just reach that point
and be served as hot as possible, the cup being heated
before being used, and the milk being covered with the
inverted saucer while on its way to the sick-room. The
patient should sip the milk as hot as can be borne, and
will often find it as strengthening in its results as wine or
liquor.
In preparing any of the grain foods for a sick person,
extra care should be taken that they are sufficiently well
cooked, else the result may be hurtful. Of the laxative
articles of diet, oatmeal is one of the most important.
COOKERY FOR THE SICK, 575
It stands before all other grains in point of nutrition.
Rice is also a very valuable article of food in cases of
digestive derangement. It nourishes and soothes at the
same time, and supports the strength most desirably.
For acute affections of the alimentary canal, rice-water for
drink and rice jelly for food form a particularly appropri-
ate diet. These preparations are also advised during
convalescence from acute fever, and other maladies where
there is intestinal trouble, especially in the summer com-
plaints of young children. The -value of corn-meal for
invalids who are thin and low of temperature is but little
appreciated. Corn-meal contains a large percentage of
oil, which is heat-producing and nourishing.
Of meats, none is so juicy and appetizing as a beef-
steak from a proper cut and properly cooked. Pork and
veal should never be given in any form to a sick person.
Some physicians claim that venison is the most easily
digested and assimilated of meats, and class mutton next
and beef third; but beef can often be eaten when no
other variety of meat can even be tasted.
BEEF-TEA.
In families where little time is given to preparing
invalid dishes, the extract of beef is much to be preferred
in the making of beef-tea. In this way the tea can be
made as strong or weak as may be desired, and may be got
ready quickly, hot water and a little salt (generally half a
tea-spoonful to a cupful of water) being all that is neces-
sary besides the extract. A physician of large practice
has said that beef-tea made in this way is much better
than three-fourths of that prepared direct from the beef,
and that only with exceptionally good nurses would he
5/6 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
allow any other kind to be administered to his patients.
In making tea from the beef, have the meat cut from the
round and chopped very fine by the butcher. To a
pound of meat allow a pint of cold water. Put the
water on the meat in a covered saucepan, and let the
latter stand for an hour on the back of the stove in a very
moderate heat, stirring frequently; then place it in a
stronger heat, letting the liquid heat up very slowly, and
simmer for an hour longer. Add salt to taste, strain and
set away to cool. When cold remove every particle of
fat from the top, and heat up only the quantity needed
for immediate use. When the tea is required in a
hurry, the grease may be taken off by laying a white
paper on top of the warm liquid.
STRONGER BEEF-TEA.
Place a pound of finely chopped lean beef in a wide-
mouthed bottle, or in a fruit-jar. Add to it half a pint of
cold water, and let it stand for an hour ; then place the
bottle in a sauce-pan of cold water, place the pan on the
fire, and heat the water slowly almost to the boiling
point, but be careful not to let it boil. Cook in this
way for two hours ; then strain, and season with salt to
taste.
The thick sediment that falls to the bottom of beef-tea
after it has stood for a short time, is the most nutritious
part of the preparation ; yet many ignorantly serve only
the clearer and poorer part to the patient. It is to keep
this sediment (the albuminoids) in a safe, digestible con-
dition that the cook must be careful that the water
which surrounds the bottle does not boil, as great heat
hardens albumen.
COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 577
BEEF ESSENCE.
Have the meat chopped very fine, place it in a fruit-jar,
and screw on the top of the jar, but not tightly, or the jar
will burst. Set the jar in a saucepan of cold water,
heat the water slowly, and keep it near the boiling point
for four hours. Pour off the juice from the meat, and
press the latter to extract every drop of the essence,
using for the purpose a lemon-squeezer, or a meat-
squeezer that is sold for this particular work. Season
slightly with salt when serving. This makes an invalu-
able aliment for persons who are or have been very ill,
and for weak infants when they need much nourishment
in small compass. It can be administered like medicine
by the tea-spoonful at regular intervals.
BEEF JUICE.
Choose a thick cut of fresh, juicy and very lean steak.
Broil it over the coals only long enough to heat it
throughout ; then cut it into small pieces, place these in a
lemon squeezer or a meat press and press out the juice
into a warm dish. Salt slightly in serving.
MUTTON JUICE.
Prepare this the same as beef juice, using for the pur-
pose a thick cut from the leg, and cutting off all the fat.
CHICKEN BROTH.
Cut up a young fowl, and remove all of the skin and
fat. Wash the chicken, cut it into small pieces, crack
the bones well, and place it in a kettle with two quarts of
cold water. Set the kettle on the fire in a slow heat,
37
578 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
and gradually bring the water to the boiling point.
Skim carefully, and set it back where it will gently sim-
mer for three hours, keeping the kettle tightly covered.
Season with salt, strain off the broth, and serve. If sago,
tapioca or rice is not objectionable to the patient, it may
be added with advantage. Soak two table-spoonfuls of
the grain for an hour in cold water, drain, add it to the
strained broth, and simmer slowly for twenty minutes.
If the kettle is kept well covered and the cooking is as
slow as it should be, the liquid will not boil away appre-
ciably. Should the broth be needed very quickly, the
rice may be boiled by itself in just enough water to
keep it 'from browning, and both water and rice may
be added to the broth, care being taken that there
is not enough water with the rice to weaken the
broth.
MUTTON BROTH.
Take a pound of the scraggy part of the neck of mut-
ton, cut off all the fat, and cut the lean into small cubes.
Add to the meat four table-spoonfuls of pearl barley, and
three pints of cold water. Heat slowly to the boiling
point, skim carefully, and set the broth back where it will
simmer. Place the bones in a pint of cold water, and
boil them gently for half an hour ; then strain the liquor
into the broth, and cook the latter two hours longer.
Season well with salt. The barley may be omitted if not
cared for, but it adds much to the nutritiousness of the
broth.
BEEF BROTH.
This is made the same as mutton broth.
COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 579
CLAM BROTH.
For this purpose the clams should be in the shells.
Scrub a dozen clams with a brush until they are perfectly
clean, place them in a stew-pan, and add half a pint of
boiling water. Place the pan on the fire in a moderate
heat, boil fifteen minutes, and strain the liquor through a
fine sieve. Should the broth be too fresh (which it sel-
dom is), add salt. If it is too salt, dilute it with boiling
water.
GRUELS.
Sick persons almost invariably have a natural antip-
athy against all " sick dishes," and this repugnance is
perhaps, most decided against gruels of all kinds. When
gruels are served to an invalid, they should be carefully
selected with the nature of the complaint in view. Thus,
in excessive disorder of the bowels, oatmeal gruel should
never be given, but instead a flour gruel.
OATMEAL GRUEL, NO. I.
When much oatmeal gruel is to be required, it will
prove an economy of time to cook the oatmeal into mush,
as previously described in this book, making sure that it
is very thoroughly done. Place it in a bowl, and cover
tightly. When gruel is needed, place some of the mush
in a frying-pan, add milk sufficient to thin it to the de-
sired consistency, and boil slowly for five minutes, stirring
all the time. Add salt, and serve.
OATMEAL GRUEL, NO. 2.
One quart of boiling water. .
One table-spoonful of raw oatmeal.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
580 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
Place the water in a frying-pan, add the oatmeal, and
cook for two hours in a slow heat. Season with the salt,
and strain or not, as the physician may direct. To
serve, fill a cup two-thirds full with the hot gruel and fill
the balance with cream or rnilk, stirring both well to-
gether before taking to the patient.
INDIAN MEAL GRUEL.
One quart of boiling water.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Two table-spoonfuls of meal.
One table-spoonful of flour.
Four table-spoonfuls of cold water.
Place the meal and flour in the cold water, rub them
smooth, and stir the paste into the boiling water. Stir
well, and when the gruel boils, set it back where it will
simmer gently for two hours. Add the salt, cook for half
an hour longer, and serve with cream or milk, the .same as
in the preceding recipe.
FLOUR GRUEL.
This is particularly useful in the summer troubles of
little children. Place a pint of flour in a cloth, tie it
tightly, put it in a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil
four or five hours. When the cloth is untied, the gluten
of the flour will be found in a mass on the outside of the
ball. Remove this, and the inside will be found a dry
powder, which is very astringent. Grate from the ball,
wet the powder in cold milk, and stir it into a pint of
boiling milk, using as much of the powder as will thicken
the milk to a palatable porridge. Add salt, and serve
hot.
COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 581
FLOUR GRUEL, NO 2.
One pint of boiling milk.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt
One table-spoonful of flour.
Four table-spoonfuls of cold milk.
Stir the cold milk and the flour together, and when they
are well mixed, add them to the boiling milk. Cook in a
double boiler for twenty minutes, season with the salt,
strain, and serve hot.
This gruel may be made more nutritious by adding
half a cupful of raisins to the milk when it is put on to
boil. These also are strained off.
GRAHAM GRUEL.
One pint of boiling water.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Four table-spoonfuls of cold water.
One {able-spoonful of graham meal.
Make the same as the preceding, omitting the raisins,
and boiling for thirty minutes instead of twenty. Serve
with cream or milk, the same as the flour gruel.
MILK TOAST.
Cut the bread in thin slices, pare off the crust, and toast
carefully until of a golden-brown hue. Butter it lightly
while hot. Have ready a tea-cupful of milk that has
been slightly thickened with a tea-spoonful of flour and
salted to taste ; pour this hot over the toast, and serve at
once.
CREAM TOAST.
This is richer than milk toast, but is often most grate-
582 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK,
fully received by the patient already tired of other foods.
Toast the bread, and butter it the same as directed in the
preceding recipe. Sprinkle the toast with a very little
salt, pour over it three or four tea-spoonfuls of sweet
cream to every slice, and serve at once. Do not heat
the cream. The toast, if very hot, will warm it suffi-
ciently.
PANADA.
Sprinkle a tea-spoonful of salt between two large Bos-
ton, soda or graham crackers or hard pilot biscuit.
Place the crackers in a bowl, and pour on just enough
boiling water to soak them well. Set the bowl in a vessel
of boiling water, and let it remain twenty or thirty min-
utes, until the crackers are quite clear, but not at all
broken ; then lift them out carefully without breaking,
and lay them on a hot saucer. Serve very hot with sugar
and cream.
WHEY.
This is made with sweet milk and an acid. Whey con-
tains the sugar, salt and other saline principles necessary
for digestion and the repair of the mineral part of the
body.
WINE WHEY.
One cupful of new milk.
One-half cupful of sherry wine.
Sugar to sweeten.
Place the milk 'in a small saucepan set in another con-
taining boiling water. When the milk boils, add the
wine, stir well, and leave in a mild heat until the curd
COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 583
and whey separate ; then strain, sweeten the whey, and
serve.
Many other acids are used in making whey, and the
process is the same in each instance as that for making
wine whey. The proportions are given below.
i LEMON WHEY.
One cupful of milk.
Two table-spoonfuls ot lemon-juice.
CREAM OF TARTAR WHEY.
One cupful of milk.
One level tea-spoonful of cream of tartar.
ORANGE WHEY.
Two cupfuls of milk.
One orange (juice)
DRINKS FOR THE SICK.
CURRANT WATER.
Stir a table-spoonful of currant jelly into a glassful
of water. Sweeten slightly, if desired. When currant
juice is obtainable, use three table-spoonfuls of the juice
and enough water to dilute to the desired acidity. Acid
drinks are most refreshing in fever.
APPLE WATER. -
Bake two large, tart apples until tender, sprinkle a
table-spoonful of sugar over them, return them to the
oven, and cook until the sugar is slightly brown. Place
the apples in a bowl, mash them with a spoon, pour a.
pint of boiling water on them, cover, and let them stand
for an hour ; then strain and cool.
584 THE PA TTERN COOK-ROOK.
RICE WATER.
Wash four table-spoonfuls of rice, add to it three cup-
fuls of cold water, place it on the fire, and cook for half
an hour. Season with salt, strain and serve.
BARLEY WATER.
Wash five table-spoonfuls of pearl barley, add to it
four cupfuls of cold water, place it on the fire, and boil
slowly for two hours. Strain, and when cold, season
with a little salt, or, if not hurtful, a little lemon and
sugar.
TOAST WATER.
Toast two or three slices of stale bread until brown all
through, but not at all scorched. Break the toast in
small pieces, and put a cupful of it into a pitcher, using
none of the toast that is not thoroughly brown. Pour on
the toast three cupfuls of boiling water, let this stand for
ten minutes, strain, and serve when cold.
FLAXSEED LEMONADE.
This is very soothing to patients suffering from colds.
One quart of boiling water.
Four table-spoonfuls of whole fiaxseed.
Two lemons.
Sugar.
Boil the flaxseed in the water for three hours, letting it
steep slowly. Strain, sweeten to taste, and add the juice
of the lemons. If too thick, add a little water.
H<>] I KMONADK.
This should only be drunk just before retiring ; it is
/-('A' /'///-: .svcA 585
excellent im colds, hut can' should be taken to avoid all
exposure on the following day.
( 'IK 1( MHMi
Thicr (jii.irlris cupful of boiling water.
SllJ'.ai 1.1 I. ISIC.
Squeeze the lemon juice into the water, and add the
sugai. Serve as hot as possible.
EGG NOG.
One egg.
Milk.
( )iu l.iNr-.spoonlul nl ln.in.lv, HUM in wine.
l sii',;il.
Ui-. it the white of the eggs stiff, stir the sugar into it,
add thi' yolk of the egg, heal well, and stir in the lii|iuu.
Place the mixiiiic in a tumbler, and gradually add enough
milk to fill the glass, sliiriug all the time. Add a slight
grating <>l nutmeg, and serve.
U'ines MI li<piois should never be given to a patient
without the advice of the physician, as in fevers they aie
positively haimlul. Cases of sudden prostration are,
however, an exception, a spoonful of liquor often quickly
relieving the distress.
MILK IMINCII.
Sweeten three (piailer, ol .1 gLrslul <>l milk to taste,
and add one or two tahl- p'M.nfuls of the b9| brandy,
di.iie a litile nutmeg over the top, turn the whole into a
pint howl, and heal lw<> minutes \\ilh a |)M\. .ilei
then pour the punch back int< the glass, and serve.
586 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
RICE JELLY.
Mix enough water with two table-spoonfuls of rice
flour to make a thin paste, and then -add a coffee-cup-
ful of boiling water. Sweeten to taste, and boil until the
rice is transparent. If intended for a person suffering
from intestinal trouble, boil with it a stick of cinnamon ;
if for a fever patient, add, when done, several drops of
lemon-juice. Wet a mould with cold water, pour in the
jelly, and when cold serve with milk and sugar.
TO PREPARE AN UNCOOKED EGG.
Beat the yolk of the egg and a tea-spoonful of sugar
together, and add to this two tea-spoonfuls of sherry,
brandy or port, stirring well. Beat the white of the egg
to a very stiff froth, stir it in, beating well, and serve at
once. This will quite fill the glass. If wine is not
desired, nutmeg may be used for flavoring.
TO PREPARE RAW BEEF.
Scrape very fine two or three table-spoonfuls of fresh,
juicy raw beef, season it slightly with pepper and salt,
spread it between two thin slices of lightly buttered
bread, and cut for serving into little diamond shapes, two
and a-half inches long and an inch wide.
CHIPS FOR DYSPEPTICS.
One cupful of Arlington wheat meal.
One cupful of milk.
One cupful of water.
One-half tea-spoonful of salt.
Beat all together until smooth, pour into two well
buttered dripping-pans, and bake until thoroughly brown.
COOKEKY FOR THE SICK.
587
BREAKFAST.
Oatmeal Mush,
Egg on Toast.
MENUS FOR INVALIDS.
NO. I.
DINNER.
Beefsteak.
Baked Potatoes (mashed}.
Toasted Graham Cracker.
Dessert.
Gelatine Pudding.
SUPPER.
Cream 7'oast.
Cup of Tea.
Baked Apple.
BREAKFAST.
Hominy Grits.
Mutton Chop.
Bread (not fresh}.
Cup of Hot Milk.
BREAKFAST.
NO. 2.
DINNER.
Chicken Broth, witJi Rice.
Dessert.
Wine Jelly, with Cracker.
NO. 3.
DINNER.
SUPPER.
Milk Toast.
Quince Jelly.
SUPPER.
Cnifkcil Wheat Mush. Beef Broth, with Barley. Corn Meal Mush,
Oysters on Toast. Bread (not fresh}. with Cream and Sugar.
Dessert.
Soft Custard.
MENUS.
" Serenely full, the epicure would say,
1 Fate cannot harm me, I have dined to-day.' "
SYDNEY SMITH.
The following menus have been prepared for use in
families where an expensive menu would not be possible.
Where the cost need not be considered, a caterer is
generally engaged, or the number of servants is pro-
portionate to the style of service.
Any of these menus may readily be served in homes
where but one maid is employed, if proper forethought
be given as to time, etc. All the necessary directions for
preparing the dishes mentioned in these menus will be
found through this work.
MENU FOR THANKSGIVING DINNER.
Oysters on the Half-shell.
Noodle Soup.
Roast Turkey. Giblet Gravy.
Mashed Potatoes. Mashed Turnips.
Chicken Pie.
Plain Celery. Cranberry Sauce.
Creamed Onions.
Lettuce Salad.
Suet Pudding, with Snow Sauce.
Apple Pie. Pumpkin Pic. Mince Pit'.
Fruit.
Coffee.
588
MENUS. 589
MENU FOR CHRISTMAS DINNER.
Oyster Soup.
Baked Fish. Tomato Sauce.
Potato Balls.
Roast Goose, with Apple Sauce.
Cauliflower. Mashed Potato.
Venison Steak.
Ciirrant Jelly.
Baked Sweet Potatoes. Stewed Celery.
Lettuce Salad.
Plum pudding, with Brandy Sauce.
Ice Cream. Cake.
Fruit.
Coffee.
MENUS FOR A SPRING DAY.
BREAKFAST.
Fruit.
Wheat-Germ Mush.
Broiled Lamb Chops.
Creamed Potatoes. Hominy Waffles. Water Cresses.
Graham Gems. Coffee. Toast.
LUNCHEON.
Tomato Soup.
Scalloped Oysters. Rolls.
Canned Peaches. Cake.
Tea.
DINNER.
Roast Beef, with Yorkshire Pudding.
Stewed Macaroni. Mashed Potatoes.
Chocolate Corn-Starch.
Coffee.
59
THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
SUPPER.
Oysters on Toast.
Tea Biscuit. Stewed Prunes.
Cookies.
Chocolate. Tea.
MENUS FOR A SUMMER DAY.
BREAKFAST.
Berries.
Broiled Steak.
Baked Potatoes.
Boiled Eggs.
Rolls.
Coffee.
LUNCHEON.
Strawberry Shortcake.
Tea.
Toast.
Baked Veal.
Spinach.
Milk Toast.
Berries.
DINNER.
Clam Soup.
Potatoes, roasted with the veal.
Salsify.
Tomato Salad.
Cantaloupes.
SUPPER.
Biscuit.
Cake.
Tea.
MENUS FOR AN AUTUMN DAY.
BREAKFAST.
Beef on Toast.
Grapes.
Oatmeal Mush.
Coffee.
Corn Bread.
MENUS. 591
LUNCHEON.
Corned-beef Hash . Bread.
Raw Tomatoes (sliced).
Peaches. Grapes.
Coffee.
Chocolate.
DINNER.
Celery Soup.
Stewed Chicken. Rice.
Plain Boiled Potatoes. Stewed Tomatoes.
Bread Pudding, with Vanilla Sauce.
Coffee.
SUPPER.
Welsh Rarebit. Bread.
Baked Quinces. Sponge Cake.
Tea.
MENUS FOR A WINTER DAY.
BREAKFAST.
Corn-meal Mush.
Broiled Bacon. Creamed Potatoes.
Buckwheat Cakes, with Maple Syrup.
Coffee.
LUNCHEON.
Consomme.
Fried Corn-meal Mush. Baked Sweet Potatoes.
Apple Sauce. Rolls.
Chocolate.
DINNER.
Roast Turkey, with Cranberry Sauce.
Mashed Potatoes. Cauliflower.
Celery Salad.
Bird's-Nest Pudding.
5Q2 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
SUPPER.
Cold Tongue.
Brown Bread, Toasted. Cold Bread.
Cake. Preserves.
Tea.
Cocoa.
MENUS FOR A LENTEN DAY.
BREAK AST.
Oatmeal Mush, with Cream.
Oysters on Toast. Muffins.
Coffee.
LUNCHEON.
Vermicelli Eggs. Baked Potatoes.
Rolls.
Canned Berries. Cake.
Chocolate.
DINNER.
Clam Soup.
Baked Fish, with Tomato Sauce.
Plain Celery. Mashed Turnips.
Boiled Potatoes.
Gelatine Pudding, with Custard Sauce.
Coffee.
SUPPER.
Milk Toast.
Potato Salad. Bread.
Cake. Cocoa.
MENU FOR A SMALL COMPANY LUNCHEON.
Raw Oysters.
Chicken Salad.
Sandwiches. Rolls.
MENUS. 593
Preserves.
Cakes. Ice-Cream.
Tea. Chocolate.
MENU FOR A SMALL COMPANY DINNER.
Oysters on the Half-Shell.
Consomme.
Fried Smelts, with Tartare Sauce.
Boiled Potato Balls.
Roast Chicken, with Currant Jelly.
Sweetbread Croquettes.
Mashed Potatoes. Boiled Celery.
Welsh Rarebit.
Water-cress Salad.
Custard Souffle, with Cream Sauce.
Fruit.
Coffee.
TWO MENUS FOR EVENING CARD PARTIES.
NO. I.
Bouillon.
Chicken Salad. Rolls.
Champagne.
Olives. Fancy Cakes.
NO. 2.
Rolled Chicken Sandwiches.
Salad.
Ham (sliced}. Wafer Crackers.
Cream. Cakes.
Coffee.
MENU FOR AFTERNOON TEAS.
Sandwiches.
Tea. Fancy Cakes.
Claret Punch.
38
594 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
MENU FOR CHILDREN'S BIRTHDAY PARTY.
Cold Chicken (sliced). Bread.
Soft Custard.
Ice-Cream. fancy Cakes.
Birthday-Cake (with Name and Date}.
Nuts. Fruit. Candy.
BILL-OF-FARE TABLE.
Bills of fare can be easily made for the most elaborate
or the plainest dinner that is to be served in courses, by
selecting more or less of the dishes mentioned in the fol-
lowing table, and serving them in the order indicated.
FIRST COURSE. Raw oysters, little clams, Roman punch.
SECOND COURSE. Soup.
THIRD COURSE. Hors-d ' osnvres (Relishes). Cold : sar-
dines, pickled oysters, cucumbers, radishes, pre-
served herrings, anchovies, cold slaw. These dishes
are considered as appetizers and are very properly
served at this course. It is a French custom.
FOURTH COURSE. Fish. Any kind of fish or shell-fish.
FIFTH COURSE. Hors-d'oeuvres. Hot : these are the
light entrees, such as croquettes, all kinds of hot pat-
ties (not sweet), sweetbreads, brains, etc.
SIXTH COURSE. Releits. The substantial dishes, such as
roast joints of beef, veal, lamb, mutton or venison,
roast or boiled turkeys or chickens, fillet of beef,
braised meats, etc.
SEVENTH COURSE. Roman punch.
EIGHTH COURSE. Entries. Cutlets, all kinds of patties
(not sweet), sweetbreads, fricassees, scollops, cas-
seroles, poultry or game en coquille, croquettes, sal-
BILL-OF-FARE TABLE. 595
mis, blanquettes, any of the meats or game made into
side dishes.
NINTH COURSE. Entrements. Dressed vegetables, served
alone, such as cauliflowers, asparagus, artichokes,
corn, spinach, boiled celery, string beans, or
French peas on toast, macaroni, dressed eggs, frit-
ters.
TENTH COURSE. Game of any kind.
ELEVENTH COURSE. Salad of any kind. A plain salad
is often served with the game.
TWELFTH COURSE. Cheese, macaroni dressed with
cheese, cheese omelet, cheese-cakes. Cheese and
salad are often served together.
THIRTEENTH COURSE. Entremets (sweet). Any kind of
puddings, jellies, sweet fritters, sweet pastries,
creams, charlottes, etc.
FOURTEENTH COURSE. Glaces. Anything iced, such as
ice creams, water ices, frozen puddings, etc.
FIFTEENTH COURSE. Dessert. Fruit, nuts and raisins,
candied fruits, bonbons, cake, etc.
SIXTEENTH COURSE. Coffee, and little cakes or biscuits
(crackers).
MEASUREMENTS.
" Make it plain upon the tables,
That he may run that readeth it."
SCRIPTURE.
4 tea-spoonfuls of liquid, . . . . i table-spoonful.
4 table-spoonfuls of liquid, . gill, J cupful or I wine-glassful,
i table-spoonful of liquid, . . . . i ounce.
1 pint of liquid, ..... i pound.
2 gills of liquid, . . . . i cupful, or | pint,
i kitchen cupful, ..... | pint.
i quart of sifted pastry flour. . . . i pound.
1 quart of sifted " new-process " flour, less i gill, . i pound.
4 cupfuls of flour, . . . . i quart, or i pound.
2 rounded table-spoonfuls of flour, .... ounce.
1 rounded table-spoonful of granulated sugar, . . ounce.
2 rounded table-spoonfuls of ground spice, . . ounce.
i heaping table-spoonful of powdered sugar, . . ounce.
3 cupfuls of corn-meal, ..... pound.
i pint of corn-meal, ..... pound.
I cupful of butter, . . . . . pound.
I pint of butter, . . i pound.
i table-spoonful of butter, . . . . . i ounce.
Butter the size of an egg, .... 2 ounces.
Butter the size of a walnut, . . . . i ounce.
1 solid pint of chopped meat, i pound.
10 eggs, . . . . . . . i pound.
2 cupfuls of granulated sugar, i pound.
I pint of granulated sugar, . . . . i pound.
596
MEASUREMENTS. 597
I pint of brown sugar, . . . . .17 ounces.
2^ cupfuls of powdered sugar, . . . i pound,
i cupful of rice, ...... pound.
i cupful of stemmed raisins, . . . .6 ounces.
i cupful of cleaned and dried currants, . . 6 ounces.
1 cupful of grated bread-crumbs, . . . .2 ounces.
8 rounded table-spoonfuls of flour, i cupful.
8 rounded table-spoonfuls of sugar, . . i cupful.
8 rounded table-spoonfuls of butter, i cupful.
2 gills, ....... i cupful.
i common tumblerful, ..... I cupful.
3 table-spoonfuls of grated chocolate, . . i ounce,
i pint, . . . . . . .16 ounces.
i pint, .... ... 4 gills.
i ounce, ...... 8 drachms (J gill).
1 table-spoonful, . . . > . \ ounce.
1 6 drachms, ...... i ounce.
1 6 ounces, . . . . . . i pound.
4 gills, .... .1 pint.
2 pints, . . . . . .1 quart.
4 quarts, ....... I gallon.
SMALL ECONOMIES.
" Waste not want not."
" Economy is a poor man's revenue,
Extravagance a rich man's ruin."
THERE is an old saying (which if rather roughly put, is
none the less true), that " a woman can throw out with a
spoon faster than a man can throw in with a shovel."
While all men do not " throw in with a shovel," in reality,
there are many women who seem almost to " throw out "
by the shovelful rather than by the spoonful of this wise
old proverb. A few " leaks in the kitchen " are here
mentioned to remind thoughtless housekeepers of the
many spoonfuls they are continually throwing out.
In cooking meat the water is often poured out without
first removing the fat, and quite as frequently the oil
from the baking-pan is cast away as of no value.
Scraps of meat are thrown out.
Cold potatoes are allowed to sour.
Dried fruits are not looked after and become wormy.
Vinegar and sauce are left standing in tin vessels.
Apples are allowed to decay for want of looking over.
The tea-canister and coffee-box are left open so that
the tea and coffee lose their strength and flavor.
Bones of meat and the carcasses of roast fowls are
598
SMALL ECONOMIES. 599
thrown away, when they could be used in making good
soups.
Sugar, tea, coffee, rice and flour are carelessly spilled
in handling.
Soap is left in the water to- waste.
Dish-towels are used for dish-cloths, napkins for dish-
towels, and towels for holders.
Brooms and mops suffer damage from not being hung
up.
More coal is burned than is necessary through the
cook not closing the dampers when the fire is not in use.
Lights are left burning when not needed.
Tin dishes are not properly cleaned and dried.
Good brooms are used to scrub the floors or sweep the
cellar, when there are plenty of old ones that will
answer these purposes just as well.
Silver spoons are used in scraping kettles.
Mustard is left to spoil in the cruse.
Vinegar is allowed to stand in an open vessel until its
strength is lost and it becomes dusty, or is filled with
gnats.
Pickles become spoiled through the leaking out or
evaporation of the vinegar.
Pork spoils for want of salt, and beef because the
brine needs scalding.
Cheese is permitted to mould, or when dry is thrown
away.
Woodenware is put away unscalded and left to warp
and crack.
The bread-pan is set away with a quantity of the
dough still in it.
Remnants of pie-crust are allowed to harden and then
600 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
thrown out, instead of being utilized for making a few
tarts for supper.
Cold pudding is thrown away because there is not
enough to " go round." Some fruit should be served
also, and the pudding steamed, thus producing a good
dessert.
Cooked rice is wasted, when a pudding could be made
of it, or it could be used in soup.
Vegetables are also thrown away that might be used to
advantage in soup.
The scrub-brush is left to rot in a pail of water.
Pails are scorched on the stove, and tubs and barrels
are left in the sun to dry and fall apart.
Potatoes in the cellar commence to grow, and the
sprouts are not removed until the potatoes are spoiled.
Dried beef becomes so hard it cannot be cut.
Servants are allowed to leave a light burning in their
rooms or in the kitchen, when they are to be out all
the evening.
Servants neglect the wash on a windy day, and the
clothes are whipped to pieces. Fine cambrics are washed
on the board instead of between the hands, and laces are
torn in ironing.
Fruit-stains in the table-cloths are not strained out as
soon as possible, but are washed into the cloths.
Clothes-pins that have fallen to the ground are not
picked up promptly, and so are soon ruined.
Scraps of soap are wasted instead of being utilized in
a soap-shaker that costs but a trifle.
Good sheets are taken for ironing cloths, when coarse,
unbleached cotton can be had for a few cents a yard.
Good blankets or quilts also are used for padding the
SMALL ECONOMIES. 6ot
ironing board, when an ironing-blanket may be purchased
at very small cost.
The egg-beater is left soaking in water, instead of
being at once cleansed and laid away.
Kitchen knives and forks are also left in water until
the handles are loosened if they do not come entirely off.
HOW TO USE WHAT IS SAVED.
Save all broken pieces and crusts of bread not fit for
toast ; they may be used in place of cracker-crumbs for
dipping oysters, croquettes, etc. (See " How to Dry
Bread-Crumbs.") Stale bread may also be used in bread
griddle-cakes, queen of puddings, bread muffins and
many desserts.
Muffins left from breakfast may be split in half and
toasted for luncheon ; or they may be dipped quickly in
cold water and set in a hot oven for fifteen minutes, when
they will taste as if newly made.
Pieces of buns or stale cake make excellent cabinet
pudding or cake custard pudding. Here also may be
used the bit of preserves left from last evening's tea.
There is nothing better for panada than stale rusks,
toasted.
All cold mashed potatoes should be saved for cro-
quettes or potato puff. One cupful will make six cro-
quettes.
Cold boiled potatoes make delicious French fried or
Lyonnaise potatoes and potato salad.
All small pieces of plain or puff paste trimmed from
pies or patties may be used for cheese fingers, or with the
small piece of beefsteak left from breakfast, may be made
into rissoles, forming a dainty but inexpensive entree for
602 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
luncheon. The unbaked portion of puff paste taken
from the center of patties, when dried and rolled, makes
a richer and much better covering for scallops, devils,
etc., than dried bread-crumbs.
The green part of celery stalks is not sightly in the
dish or glass, nor is it fit to eat ; but it is just the thing
for stewing and for flavoring soups. The roots, when
boiled, make an excellent salad.
Save every bone, whether of beef, mutton, veal, ham,
poultry or game, and also all juices and gravies, for
making soup. In the soup kettle place the long end of
the rib roast, which would only become tasteless and
dry if warmed in the oven; and also the fat ends of
French mutton chops. This kettle may be made an inex-
haustible storehouse, not only for making ordinary soup
or puree, but also for stock, which is far better than
water for making sauces and gravies. All the fat from
the surface of the soup, every piece of suet from chops
and steaks, in fact, all kinds of fat should be saved, tried
out, clarified and strained into the dripping pot. If this
is done, there will always be an abundance of fat for fry-
ing, and no lard need ever be purchased for this work.
Doughnuts and fritters are much better fried in drippings
than in lard, as then so much of the fat is not absorbed.
The coarse, tough and unprepossessing tops of sirloin
steaks, and the tough ends of rumps, which cannot pos-
sibly be eaten when broiled, make most excellent Ham-
burg steaks.
Soup meat, nicely chopped and seasoned and freed
from all tough gristle may be pressed and used for
luncheon. It needs to be well seasoned, else it will
prove tasteless.
SMALL ECONOMIES. 603
Cold mutton is particularly satisfactory when hashed
and served on toast, or when stewed with tomatoes.
Cold roast and boiled chicken or turkey may be made
into croquettes a la Bechamel, and if nicely served, will
never suggest warmed-over meats.
A cupful of cold boiled rice added to griddle-cakes,
muffins or waffles makes them lighter and more easy of
digestion.
The water in which fresh tongue, mutton or chicken is
boiled may be used for soup, or may be added to the
stock-kettle.
Whites of eggs, saved one or two at a time, and kept
in a cool place, may be used for angels'-food, white cakes
or apple snow.
When the yolks of eggs are to be set aside for any
length of time, beat them thin, adding a little cold water.
This will prevent the thick scum forming on the top that
wastes so much of the egg. If the yolks are to be used
for salads, however, the water must not be added.
Cold boiled, baked or broiled fish may be used in cro-
quettes or salads, a la creme, etc.
Hard ends of cheese may be grated and saved for
baking macaroni. From a few of these dried bits a large
quantity of grated cheese is obtained.
THINGS WORTH KNOWING.
" Together let us beat his ample field,
Try what the open, what the covert yield ;
Content if hence the unlearned their wants may view,
The learned reflect on what before they knew."
POPE.
HOW TO BLANCH ALMONDS.
SHELL the nuts and pour boiling water upon them.
Let them stand in the water until the skin may be re-
moved, then throw them into cold water, rub off the skins
between the hands, and dry the kernels between towels.
HOW TO SALT ALMONDS.
Shell and blanch the almonds, spread them out on a
bright tin pie-plate, add a piece of butter the size of a
hickory nut, and set them in a hot oven until they are of
a golden-brown hue. Remove them from the oven, stir
well, dredge thickly with salt, and turn them out to cool.
HOW TO SCRAPE CHOCOLATE.
If but one square of chocolate is needed, draw a line
across the two squares at the end of the cake, dividing
them in halves. With a sharp knife shave off the choco-
late until the line is reached. In this way there is no
604
THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 605
waste of time or material. If two squares are needed,
shave off to the dividing line. The pound packages of
Baker's chocolate contain two cakes, each of which con-
sists of eight squares; one of these squares is, therefore, an
ounce.
HOW TO CLEAN ENGLISH CURRANTS.
Remove all the pebbles, bits of dirt and long stems
from the currants, add a pint of flour to two quarts of
the fruit, and rub the latter well between the hands ; this
starts the stems and dirt from the currants. Place the
fruit and flour in a coarse colander, and shake well until
the flour and stems have passed through ; then place the
colander and currants in a pan of water, and wash the
currants thoroughly, leaving them still in the colander.
Lift the colander and currants together, and change the
water until it becomes clear. Drain the fruit between
towels, pick it over carefully, and dry it in a sunny place.
Do not dry currants in the oven, as the heat hardens
them. When perfectly dry, put them away in jars. If
currants are prepared in this way as soon as purchased,
they will always be ready for use when wanted.
HOW TO STONE RAISINS.
Free the raisins from all stems, place them in a bowl,
cover with boiling water and let them stand two minutes.
Pour off the water and open the raisins, when the seeds
can be removed quickly, without the usual stickiness.
HOW TO BOIL SUGAR.
The degrees of boiling sugar are variously classified by
different cooks, some giving six degrees and others as
606 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
many as eight. The French boil sugar for nearly all of
their desserts. For all practical purposes, however, a
cook need understand but three degrees. Place a cupful
of granulated or loaf sugar and half a cupful of water on
the fire to boil, and when they have boiled fifteen minutes,
dip the forefinger and thumb in cold water and take up a
little of the syrup between them. If, upon drawing them
apart, the syrup forms a thread, it has reached the second
degree and is at the best stage for use in frozen fruits,
sherbets and preserves. If, after more boiling, some of
the syrup being taken up with a spoon and blown hard,
flies off in tiny bubbles, it is at the fourth degree, called
the souffle, about twenty minutes of boiling being required
to reach this point. This syrup is used for biscuit glace and
various kinds of creams, and it gives sherbets and fruits
a much richer flavor than when used at the second degree.
If the boiling is still continued, and a little syrup on
being taken up on the point of a stick or skewer and
dipped in cold water breaks off brittlely, the sixth degree
has been reached. At this stage the syrup is used for
icing fruit and cake, the dishes being known as fruit
glace or gateau glace. The syrup must never be stirred, as
this would cause it to grain. Great care must be taken
that it does not boil after coming to the sixth degree,
because it burns quickly after that point is reached.
HOW TO MAKE VARIOUS KINDS OF SUGAR.
If a housekeeper does not like to use extracts, flavored
sugars may be prepared, and they are then ready for use
when it is not convenient to obtain the fresh fruits.
These sugars must be placed in bottles and tightly corked ;
self-sealing jars are also excellent for this purpose.
THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 607
ORANGE SUGAR.
Cut off the thin yellow rind of twelve oranges. Spread
this on a platter, and set it in a warm, dry place to dry.
When the rind is dry, which will be in about forty-eight
hours, put half of it in a mortar with a cupful of gran-
ulated sugar. Pound the mixture to a powder, rub the
latter through a fine sieve, return the coarse parts left in
the sieve to the mortar, and pound them again. When
all is through the sieve, put the balance of the peel and
another cupful of sugar in the mortar, and proceed as be-
fore. One table-spoonful of this sugar will flavor a quart
of custard or cream.
ORANGE ZEST.
This is another form of orange sugar, only the oily por-
tion of the peel being added to the sugar. Rub lumps of
loaf sugar on the outside of an orange until they are
coated with the oil from the peel, using enough pressure
to break the oil sacks. Pound the sugar in a mortar and
bottle for use.
LEMON ZEST.
This is made with lemons in the manner directed for
orange zest.
ROSE SUGAR.
Spread rose-leaves on a flat dish, and dry them in the
oven. Put a pint of the dried leaves in a mortar with
half a pint of granulated sugar, pound the whole to a
powder, rub the latter through a sieve, and bottle tightly.
VANILLA SUGAR.
Cut an ounce of vanilla beans into small pieces, mix
608 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK.
them with a pint of granulated sugar, and pound all in a
mortar until the mixture is like flour. Sift through a fine
sieve, pound what will not pass through, and sift until all
is fine. Allow a table-spoonful of the sugar to a quart
of cream.
Another variety of vanilla sugar is made as follows :
Cut the beans in small pieces, and split them so that the
seeds may be exposed. Place an ounce of the beans in
a small jar with a pound of granulated sugar, and seal
tightly. Sift the sugar as required for use, add more to
the jar, keeping it closely corked, and use as long as
there is any flavor in the sugar.
HOW TO CREAM BUTTER.
If the butter is hard, the inside of the bowl in which it
is to be creamed should be warmed. Pour hot water
into the bowl, let it stand for about a minute, pour it out
and wipe the bowl. Put in the butter, and cut it in small
pieces ; work it on the bottom of the bowl until it
becomes soft, then beat it until it is light and smooth by
running the spoon rapidly in a circle. After two minutes'
work the butter should be a light creamy mass, and will
then be ready for the addition of any other ingredients,
such as sugar or flour. The work can be done more
quickly and with less fatigue in this way than if the sugar
were added at once. The hot water should not stand
long enough in the bowl to heat the outside, and the
bowl should never be hot enough to melt the butter.
Butter should always be prepared thus for cake and for
pudding sauces.
HOW TO WASH BUTTER FOR GREASING PANS.
Rinse a bowl first in hot water and then in cold. Put
THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 609
a piece of butter into the bowl, and after covering it with
cold water, work it with a spoon or with the hands until
all the salt has been washed out. Pour off the water,
and press out any water that may remain in the butter.
Butter thus prepared is used for buttering cake or bread
pans.
HOW TO SERVE SARDINES.
Regular covered dishes for serving sardines may be
purchased, but if these are not at hand, any small fancy
dish may be used. Drain the oil from the fish, arrange
the fish in the dish, and cover them with fresh olive oil or
not, according to taste. Place a dish of quartered lemons
near the sardines to be served with them.
HOW TO ROLL BREAD.
Cut off all the crust from a loaf of fresh bread.
Spread a thin layer of butter on one end of the loaf, and
cut off this end in as thin a slice as possible, using a very
sharp knife ; then roll the slice up with the buttered side
inward, and lay it on a napkin. Continue in this way
until the requisite number of rolls are made, draw the
napkin firmly around them, pin it, and set the whole in a
cold place for several hours. Rolled bread is nice to
serve with raw oysters or at a supper or luncheon party.
HOW TO DRY BREAD-CRUMBS.
\
Place all the crusts and pieces of stale bread in a pan,
and set the pan in a warm oven or on a shelf over the
range. When the bread is so dry that it will crumble
between the fingers, put it in a bag made of strong cloth
or ticking, and pound the bag with a wooden mallet until
39
6 1 THE PA TTERN COOK-B OOK.
the bread is reduced to powder. Sift the powder through
a fine sieve, and put it away in boxes or glass jars. It
will thus always be ready for breading purposes.
HOW TO OBTAIN ONION JUICE.
Pare an onion, and cut it into four pieces. Put one or
two of the pieces in a wooden lemon-squeezer, and
squeeze hard. One large onion should yield two table-
spoonfuls of juice. The squeezer should not be used for
anything else, as the wood retains both the odor and
taste of the onion. If the squeezers are not at hand, the
onions may be grated and the shreds pressed ; but this
process will not produce so much juice as the former one.
HOW TO MAKE AND USE A PASTRY BAG.
Cut a piece of strong cotton cloth twelve inches square
and fold it from two opposite corners, so as to give it a
triangular shape. On one side fell the two edges to-
gether, thus making a bag shaped like a " dunce-cup ";
and cut off the point at the apex just enough to permit a
short tin tube, somewhat like a tailor's thimble, to be
pushed through. The tube for eclairs measures about
three-quarters of an inch in diameter at the smaller end,
that for lady fingers three-eighths of an inch, and that for
meringues and kisses half an inch. The tubes used for
decorating with frosting are very small.
Fill the bag with the mixture, gather the cloth together
at the top with the left hand, hold the point of the tube
close to the pan on which the work is to be done, and
press the mixture out with the right hand. It is neces-
sary to have two or three of these bags if as many tubes
are needed, for the tubes should fit very closely.
THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 6 1 1
HOW TO KEEP ICE FOR A SICK-ROOM.
Tie a piece of coarse white flannel over a pitcher,
leaving a cup-shaped depression in the center of the
pitcher. Place the broken ice in the flannel, and cover it
tightly with thicker flannel. The ice may be kept in this
way all night, and the water that drips from it may be
poured off as wanted. The water should never be
allowed to rise to the height of the bag, however.
HOW TO CHOP SUET.
Cut the suet into pieces, remove the membrane,
sprinkle the suet with flour, and chop it in a cool place.
It will not become soft and sticky when treated in this
way.
HOW TO MAKE CLARET VINEGAR.
Claret-wine when sour, maybe made into excellent vine-
gar in this way. Place the wine in a small cask or jug, and
add a pint of " mother " to every four quarts of wine. If
this is not possible, a twenty-four inch square of common
brown paper may be used ; but the vinegar will ripen
less quickly than if the " mother " from other vinegar
were available. Set the cask in the sun, uncorked ; and
tie a piece of thin muslin cheese-cloth or tarlatan over the
cork-opening. It should be ready to use in five or six
weeks.
HOW TO MAKE TARRAGON VINEGAR.
Put two bunches of fresh tarragon in a quart present
ing jar, fill the jar with white-wine vinegar, cover tightly,
and set it away in a cool, dark place for two or three
weeks 5 then strain, and bottle. Fill the jar once more
6l2 THE PATTERN COOK-BOOK.
with tresh vinegar, and set it away. This will be ready
to use in a month, but it .need not be strained until the
first is used. This vinegar is delicious in any kind of
salad and in many sauces.
HOW TO KEEP FOOD IN THE ICE-CHEST.
Foods that have little odor, and those that absorb
odors readily should be placed at the bottom of the re-
frigerator, while all edibles possessing a strong odor
should be kept on the top shelves. Sour milk or cream
should be rigidly excluded from the ice-chest, and salad
dressings, Tartar sauce and celery should be covered
closely, or they will flavor everything that is shut in with
them. Pineapples, strawberries and raspberries should
not be placed in the common ice-chest with milk or
cream. Butter, milk, cream and other delicate foods
may be kept in the lower part of refrigerators in which
there is a circulation of dry air, and the fruits, vegetables,
etc., with stronger flavors and odors maybe put on the top
shelves. If this arrangement is carefully observed,
there will be little danger of one sort of food absorbing
the odor or flavor of anotker. A dish of powdered char-
coal should always be kept on one of the top shelves of
the refrigerator, as it is an excellent absorbent of odors.
It should be changed every few days. The refrigerator
should above all be maintained in a perfect state of
cleanliness; and with the above precautions there need
be no trouble in preserving all kinds of food in a properly
wholesome condition. People who live in flats are espe-
cially dependent upon this mode of keeping food, and too
much care and vigilance cannot be exercised to have the
ice-chest always sweet and healthful.
THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 613
HOW TO DISSOLVE GELATINE.
If gelatine is covered with water and placed on the
hearth or on the back of the stove, it will melt in fifteen
. minutes ; but it will be strong-flavored and will impart a
gluey odor to anything in which it is used. But if it is
soaked in cold water for an hour, or even longer, and
boiling water or milk is then poured upon it, it will at
once dissolve and will rarely have an unpleasant taste or
odor. Here is a good rule for dissolving a box of gela-
tine : Place the gelatine in a bowl, and pour over it half a
pint of cold water. Cover the vessel, and let it stand in
a cool place for at least an hour two hours will not be
too long. When ready to use the gelatine, add half a
pint of boiling water, or the same quantity of boiling
milk if the latter is to be used. Stir for one minute, when
the gelatine will be wholly dissolved.
HOW TO PREPARE MUSTARD FOR TABLE USE.
Place the dry mustard in a tea-cup, and gradually add
boiling water sufficient to make a thick paste, stirring
well until the latter is perfectly smooth. Then put in
enough strong vinegar to thin the paste to the desired
consistency, and season with salt.
LIME-WATER, AND ITS USES.
Place a piece of unslaked lime in a bottle, and fill
with cold water. The quantity of lime used is im-
material, as the water will take up only a certain
amount. Cork the bottle tightly, and set it in the cellar
or some cool, dry place ; it will be ready to use in a few
minutes. Use only the clear portion of the liquid.
6 1 4 THE PA TTERN COOK-BOOK:.
When this has been poured off, more water may be added
to utilize the rest of the lime.
The uses of lime-water are many. A tea-spoonful
diluted with milk or water is a reliable remedy for
summer troubles in children. Milk that is just turning
sour may be restored with lime-water, half a tea-cupful
being allowed to a pint of milk. A small quantity of
lime-water will prevent the possible souring of cream or
milk that may be needed for the next day. It will also
sweeten and purify bottles that have contained milk ; and
it is sometimes used in bread-sponge to prevent the bread
becoming sour. Lime-water may be bought very cheaply
at the drug stores.
HOW TO DESTROY RED ANTS.
Tie a little sulphur in a silk bag, and lay it in some
place which the ants frequent. If a bag is always kept
in a closet or chest of drawers these receptacles will be
free from the little pests. A bag of sulphur suspended
in a bird-cage will keep ants and other insects from the
bird.
HOW TO MAKE SOFT SOAP.
All strong flavored fats, such as that from mutton,
goose or turkey, should be fried out and strained while
still fresh and sweet. Keep this strained fat by itself to
use when soft soap is to be made. It is a good idea to
strain it into five-pound lard cans, as it will thus be easy
to weigh, and measure it at the time of making the soap.
To make nine gallons of soap put in a large kettle
a pound can of pure potash and a quart of water.
Place the kettle on the fire, and boil the water for fifteen
minutes \ then add five pounds of grease, and boil slowly
THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 615
for an hour, stirring frequently with a wooden stick. At
the end of the hour pour the boiling mixture into a large
soap-tub, and stir into it two gallons of hot water.
Fifteen minutes afterward add two gallons more of hot
water, stir well, and add four and a-half gallons of water,
either hot or cold. Stir the soap three or four times dur-
ing the next hour ; when it grows cold it will be thick and
white.
HOW TO MAKE BAR SOAP.
Six pounds of washing soda.
Three pounds of unslaked lime.
Six gallons of water.
Six pounds of clear fat.
Place the soda and the lime together, pour over them
four gallons of the water, and stir well. Let the liquid
stand until perfectly clear, then drain it off, place it over
the fire, add the fat, and boil until the mixture begins to
harden (which will be in about two hours), stirring almost
continuously. Meantime, after draining the four gallons
of water from the lime and soda, add the remaining two
gallons of water to the sediment, stir well, and when this
liquid is clear, drain it off also. While the soap is boil-
ing, thin it with this water, adding a little at a time, as the
soap puffs up as if to boil over. Try the thickness by
cooling a little on a plate, and put in a handful of salt
just before removing the soap from the fire. Wet a tub
with cold water to prevent the soap sticking, turn
the latter in, and when solid, cut it into bars, placing
them on a board to dry.
INDEX.
AIR, 13.
Almonds, 604.
Ants (red), How to destroy, 614.
Apple Water, 583.
Artichokes, 255-256.
Asparagus, 256-258.
Au court Bouillon To boil, 99.
BACON, 199.
With Liver, 164.
Bain Marie (cut), 35.
Baking. Time-table for, 69.
Barley water, 584.
Basket, Wire (cut), 38.
Beans.
Boston Baked, 197-198.
Lima, 258.
Creamed, 259.
String 259.
In milk, 259.
Beef.
A la mode, 150.
Balls, 150.
Braised, 144.
Broth, 578.
Cooked (Uses for), 150.
Corned, 148.
Dried (creamed), 149.
Essence, 577.
Fillet of, 143.
Hash, 155.
Heart, 148-149.
In Tomato, 151.
Juice, 577.
Kidney, 156.
Liver Stew, 155.
On Toast, 152.
Pot Roast, 145.
Raw How to prepare, 586.
Roast, with Yorkshire Pudding,
142.
Escalloped with Macaroni, 153.
Soup with Barley, 84.
Steak," Stuffed, 146.
Steak, with Onions, 147.
Tea, 575, 576.
Tongue, 156.
Beets, 260.
Beverages, 554-564-
Birds (small), 232-234.
Biscuit, 358-360.
Blue -Fish, 103.
Boiling, 62.
Boiling.
Time-Table for, 69.
Boning, 67.
Bouillon, 80-81.
Bracket, Soap (cut), 45
Brains, Scalloped, 169.
Braising, 65.
Braising Pan (cut), 38.
Bread, 332.
Breakfast, 350.
Corn, 349.
Compressed Yeast, 345.
Dry Yeast, 343.
Entire Wheat, 346.
Gems, 362.
Graham, 347.
How to roll, 609.
Kneading, 338.
Lightning Yeast, 343.
Moulding, 339.
Pudding, 441-460.
Raised Brown, 348.
Rye, 347,
Sponge, 336.
Rye and Indian, 348
Stale, 356.
Stuffing of, 101.
To warm over stale, 357.
Bread crumbs How to dry, 609.
Broiler, Oyster (cut), 35.
Broiling, 60.
Time-Table for, 69.
Broths, 577-579-
Brunswick Stew, 236.
Brussels Sprouts, 260.
Buns, 353-354-
Butter, 608.
CABBAGE.
Creamed, 304.
Hot Slaw, 262.
In Milk, 261.
Salad, 305.
With Corned Beef, 261.
Cake.
Angel's Food, 524.
Buttermilk, 540.
Caramel, 543.
Caroline, 530.
Chocolate, 535.
Coffee, Spiced, 524-525.
Cocoanut Loaf, 528.
Coffee, Spic
Cocoanut L
Cream Loaf, 529.
6i8
INDEX.
Cake.
Cream Molasses, 539.
Cream Pudding of, 429.
Cup, 536.
Dough, 537.
Douglass, 534.
Eggless, 535.
English White Mountain, 524.
Fillings for, 544~549-
Frostings for, 549-553.
Fruit, 519-52!!.
Ginger, 512.
Gold, 539.
Graham, 529,
Jelly, 532-533-
Johnnie, 377.
Layer, 54Q-544-
Loaf, 528-529.
Raised, 536.
Marble, 533.
Nut, 538-530-
Pound, 527.
Shellbark, 530.
Silver, 539.
Spiced, 524-526.
Sponge, 521-523.
Stale (pudding of), 436.
White, 526.
" i, 2, 3, 4," 536.
Cakes.
Cocoanut Drop, 538.
Cup, in Gem pans, 531.
Drop, 532.
Flannel, 377 .
Griddle, 372-375.
Calf (cut), 50.
Calf's Head, 167-168.
Carrots, 262.
Cauliflower, 263.
Celery.
Sauce, 208.
Soup, 93.
Stewed, 269.
Stewed with Brown Sauce, 270.
Stuffing, 208.
Charlotte Russe, 486-488.
Cheese Dishes, 308.
Au Gratin, 312.
Cottage, 314.
Head, 189.
Puffs, 313.
Salad, 305.
Straws, 313.
Souffle", 311.
Toasted, 315.
Chicken.
A 1'Italienne, 225.
Baked Camping Style, 217.
Boiled, 218.
Boned, 218.
Boudin h. la Reine, 225.
Braised, 213.
Chicken.
Broiled, 216.
Broth, 577.
Creamed, 219.
Croquettes, 220.
Dishes, 224.
For Traveller's Lunch, 219.
Fricassee, 211-213.
Fried Spring, 214-215.
Pie, 221-222,
Pressed, 219.
Roast, 214.
Salad, 298,
Sandwiches, 224.
Smothered, 215.
Chips for Dyspeptics, 586.
Chocolate, 560-561.
Blancmange, 414.
Corn-starch, 417.
How to Scrape, 604.
Whips, 494.
Chops, French, 178.
Chowder.
Clam, 122.
Fish, 109.
Oyster, 121.
Churn (whip) (cut), 46.
Clams, 121- 122.
Codfish, 108-109.
Coffee, 555-558.
Mill (cut), 34.
Cookies, 503.
Chocolate, 508.
Cream, 506.
Ginger, 510-511.
Jumbles, 508.
Mother's Jumbles, 508.
Sour Milk, 507.
Sugar, 505-506.
Without Eggs, 507.
Cook's Knife (cut), 34.
Cooky Cutters (cut), 33.
Cottage Cheese, 314-315.
Corn.
Bread, 349.
Canned, 266.
Dodgers, 376.
Fritters, 268-269.
Gems, 363.
Green, 264-265.
Muffins, 366.
Rye, 368.
Mush, 386.
- Pudding, 266.
Salad (Fetticus), 268.
Soup, 92.
With Tomatoes, 267.
Corned Beef, 148.
Hash, 155.
Corn Meal.
Griddle Cakes, 373.
Pone, 377.
INDEX.
Corn Meal.
Pudding, 424.
Waffles, 370.
Corn-starch. '
Blancmange, 421.
Crabs, 128-130.
Craw-Fish, 131.
Cream.
American, 494.
Bavarian, 489,
Apricot, 492.
Orange, 492.
Pineapple, 495.
Cabbage Salad, 304.
Cookies, 506.
Filling for Cake, 545.
For Cake Cream Pudding, 430.
For Puffs, 453.
Gravy, 187-196.
Loaf Cake, 529.
Molasses Cake, 539.
Pie, 404.
Puffs, 452.
Salad Dressing, 296-297.
Sauce, 137-451-485.
Spanish, 493.
Tapioca Pudding, 428.
Toast, 581.
Whipped, 471-486.
Creams, 481-485.
Croquettes.
Chicken, 220.
Fish, 113.
Mutton, 180.
Sweetbread, 172.
Crullers, 382.
Cucumbers, 270-271.
Currant Water, 483.
Currants (English) To clean, 605.
Cush i la Creme, 112.
Custard.
Baked, 483.
Cocoanut, 407.
Frozen, 469.
Lemon Pie, 400.
Meringue, 482.
Pie, 406.
Sauce, 416.
Soft, 448-456-481-483.
Souffle, 484.
Cutters (cuts), 33.
DANDELIONS, 272.
Deer (cut), 53.
Directions (Plain), 57.
Dish Drainer (cut), 32.
Doughnuts, 379-381.
Duck, 228-230.
To choose, 55.
Dust-Pan (cut), 44.
EELS, FRIED, 107.
' g Balls, So.
Nests, 324,
Sauce, 140-435.
Uncooked To prepare, 586.
Egg-Beater (cut), 36.
Egg Nogg, 585.
Egg Plant, 273.
Egg Whip (cut), 36,
Eggs.
Baked. 321-322.
Boiled, 317.
Creamed, 323',
Deviled, 321.
Fried, 323.
In Tomato, 330,
Pickled, 324.
Poached , 3*8,
Scrambled, 319,
Spanish, 319.
Stuffed, 325-326.
To choose (Hovr), 56.
To Preserve, 3*7.
Vermicelli, 320.
Endive (creamed), 274.
FARINA-KETTLE (cut), 41.
Fat To clarify, 63.
Fillings for Cake, 544-549.
Fish.
A la Reine, 113.
Baked, 100.
With Tomato, 103.
Boiled, 98.
Broiled, 107.
Chowder, 109.
Croquettes, 113.
Fillets of, 98.
Fried, 106.
Kettle (cut), 36.
Other modes of dressing, 108.
Rechauffe-, 114.
Remnants, 112.
Salad, 301.
Sauces for, 134.
Scissors (cut), 46.
Shell, 115.
To choose, 55.
To clean, 96.
To skin, 97.
Floating Island, 482.
Flour, 332-335.
Fluted Knife (cut), 34.
Forcemeat Balls, 79.
Fowls, 230-231.
To choose, 55.
Fritters, 382.
Corn, 268-269.
Clam, 121.
Oyster Plant, 286.
Parsnip, 282.
Pea, 284.
62O
COOK BOOK.
Fritters.
Plain, 383.
Potato, 247.
Salsify, 286.
Sour Milk, 383.
Frogs' Legs, m.
Frozen Dishes, 461.
Frostings for Cake, 549-551.
Fruit. Cooked.
Apples, 569-571-
Pears (spiced), 571.
Prunes, 571.
Griddle Cakes.
Bread and Buckwheat, q
Buckwheat, 374.
Cornmeal, 373.
French, 375 .
(jraham, 3 7 4.
Rice, 3 7 3.
Sour Milk, 372
Sweet Milk, 37 i.
Grouse, 231-232.
Gruels, 579-581.
Quinces, 570.
Rhubarb, 572.
Frozen.
Apricots, 480.
HALIBUT.
a la Creole, 104.
Carbonade of, io<;.
Ham.
Oranges, 480.
Fried, 196
Peaches, 479.
Raspberries, 479.
Strawberries, 479.
How to ice for serving, 569.
How to serve.
Apples, 566.
Bananas, 566.
Berries, 567.
Cantaloupes, 569.
Currants, 568.
Grapes, 568.
With Veal, 159.
How to boil, 195.
How to cure, 194,
How to smoke 194
Omelet, 33 o.
Sandwiches, ig 7 .
Hamburg Steak, i4 7 .
Hares To choose, 56.
Hash, 154-155-165.
Head-cheese (pork), 189.
rieat, 13.
Oranges, 568.
Peaches, 566.
Pears, 567.
Pineapple, 5 6 7 .
Pomegranate, 567.
Watermelon, 568.
Hoe-Cake, 376.
[CK How to keep for sick ro(
Ice Chest How to keep food
ces, 47 6- 477 .
Ice Cream.
Jellies of, 502.
Pudding, 431.
Frying^ 63.
Time-Table for, 60.
Pans (cuts), 38-39.
Bisque, 465.
Chocolate, 466-468.
Lemon, 464.
Neapolitan,468.
Orange, 465.
GAME, 199.
Geese To choose, 55, 226.
Gelatine.
Peach, 466.
Philadelphia, 463.
Pistachio, 465.
Vanilla, 464-46^
Frosting for Cake, 553.
How to dissolve, 613.
Pudding, 415.
Gems.
With Arrowroot, 470
With Eggs, 4 6 7 .
With Gelatine, 4 7 o.
How to freeze, 462.
Bread, 362.
ndian Meal (cornmeal).
Cornmeal, 363.
Graham, 361-362,
Gruel, 580.
Pudding, 42 4 - 457 .
Rice, 364.
Tea, 363.
ELLIES.
Gingerbread, 503-509.
Soft, 512.
Spiced, 513.
Fruit, 502.
Gelatine, 49 7 .
Sugar, 513.
(joose, 226-227.
Gravy.
CALE, 2 74 .
Kettle, (cut) 36-41-44-
Kitchen, The, 23.
Cream, 196.
Care of, 26.
Giblet, 205.
Lists, 30-31.
Griddle Cakes.
Bread, 372.
-AMB, (cut), .52.
Broiled Breast of, 183.
611.
INDEX.
621
Lamb.
Chops, 183.
Roast, 182.
Lard, 199.
Larding, (cuts), 65-66.
Needles (cut), 45.
Lemonade, 584.
Lentils, 275.
Lime Water and its uses, 613.
Liver.
Bacon and, 164.
Beef (Stewed), 155.
Baked with stuffing, 166.
Creamed, 165.
Hash, 165.
Lobster Salad, 300.
Sauce, 141.
MACARONI, 275-276.
And Escalloped beef, 153.
Mackerel, no.
Baked, 106.
Spiced, 114.
Measuring Cup (cut), 35.
Meat, 47.
For stock, 72.
Pie, 153.
Rest (cut), 37.
Meats.
Measurements Table of, 596.
Menus.
Afternoon Tea, 593.
Autumn Day, 590-591.
Children's Birthday Party, 594.
Christmas Dinner, 589.
Company Dinner, 593.
Company Luncheon, 592.
Evening Card Party 593.
Invalid, 587.
Lenten Day, 592.
Spring Day, 589, 590.
Summer Day, 590.
Table for, 594.
Thanksgiving Dinner, 588.
Wine, 564.
Winter Day, 591, 592.
Milk.
Punch, 585.
Sauce, 415.
Toast, 581.
Mince Meat for Pies, 410-412.
Moulds, (cuts), 40-41.
Mousses, 472.
Muffin Pan (cut), 35.
Muffins, 365-368.
Mush, 383-386.
Mushrooms, 277-279.
Sauce, 144-210.
Mussels, 131.
Mustard.
Cream Sauce of, 141.
How to prepare for table use, 613.
Mutton, 173.
A la Venison, 175.
And Oyster Sausages, 181.
Broth, 578.
Croquettes, 180.
Cutlets, 179.
Juice, 577.
Leg, 174-175-
Scalloped, 178.
Shoulder (stuffed), 176.
Stew, 177.
NOODLES for Soup, 94.
OATMEAL.
Gruel, 579.
Mush, 384.
Okra, 279.
Omelets, 327-331.
Onions, 280-281.
Juice of How to obtain, 610.
Ox (cut of) 49.
Oyster. "
And Mutton Sausages, 181.
Broiler (cut), 35.
Chowder, 121.
Omelet, 329.
Plant (Salsify), 286.
Sauce, 140.
Soup, 94.
Stuffing, 101-206.
Oysters, 115-120.
To choose, 56.
PANADA, 582.
Pancakes, 371-375.
Parsnips, 281-282.
Partridges, 231-232.
Paste, Puff.
American, 391.
Careme's, 389.
Chopped, 397.
How to Bake, 393.
How to shape for.
Patties, 395.
Pies with two crusts, 393.
Pies with one crust, 394.
Rissoles, 396.
Tarts, 395.
Tart Wells, 395.
Vol au Vents, 396.
Jigger (cut), 46.
Plain with Butter, 396.
Plain with Lard, 398.
Pastry, 388.
Pastry Bag How to make and use,
610.
Peas, 282-284.
Peppers Stuffed, 163.
Pheasants, 231-232.
Pies.
Apple, 398.
622
COOK BOOK.
Pies.
Blackberry, 408.
Canned Peach Meringue, 405.
Cherry, 407.
Chicken, 221-222.
Chocolate, 405.
Cocoanut Custard, 407.
Cream, 404.
Custard, 406.
Delicate Puff, 409.
Huckleberry, 408.
Lemon, 400.
Lemon, Custard, 400.
Lemon, with Bread, 401.
With Cornstarch, 401.
Meat, 153. -
Pumpkin, 402.
Rhubarb (Pie Plant) 409-572.
Shepherd's, 182.
Squash, 403.
Pie-Plant (Rhubarb), 409-572.
Pig (cut of), 54.
(Little) Roasted, 184.
Pig's Feet.
Souse of, 188.
Fried, 189.
Pigeons, 234.
Popovers, 365.
Pork.
And Beans, 197.
Chops, 187.
How to Salt or Pickle, 193.
Roast, 185-186.
Sausage, 191-192.
Salt Fried with Cream Gravy,
187.
Steak, 187.
Tenderloin, 187.
Potato.
Balls, 249.
Birds roasted in, 254.
Mayonnaise Dressing, 296.
Masher (cut of), 32.
Puff, 252.
Salad, 303.
Stuffing, 226.
Yeast, 342.
Potatoes.
Au Gratin, 249.
Baked, 246.
Boiled, 245.
Creamed with Parsley, 248.
Fried, 252.
French, 251.
Fritters, 247.
Lyonnaise, 253.
Mashed, 246.
New How to cook, 253
Omelet, 248.
Princess, 247.
Roasted under Meat, 250.
Saratoga, 251.
Potatoes.
Stuffed, 250.
Sweet, 054,
Poultry, 199.
Profiteroles for Soup, 79.
Puddings.
Apple, 423-438.
Roly Poly, 437.
Snow, 431.
Tapioca, 443 .
Batter, 429.
Bird's-Nest, 438.
Black, 443 .
Blackberry, 430.
Boiled, 422-457-460.
Bread, 441-460.
Cake Cream, 429.
Cherry, 442.
Chocolate, 439.
Blanc-mange, 414.
Corn-starch, 417.
Custard, 446.
Christmas Plum, 458.
Cocoanut, 422.
Corn-starch (Simple), 421.
Cottage, 445.
Cream Puffs, 452.
Cream Tapioca, 428.
Currant (simple), 458.
Curate, 432.
English Plum, 439.
Estella, 420.
Fancy, 444 .
Farina, 433.
Frozen Rice, 474.
Fruit (Simple), 431.
Gelatine, 415.
Graham, 434.
How to boil, 456.
Indian, 424-457.
Lemon, 419-426.
Minute, 447.
Orange, 418.
Plum, 439-458.
Puffs with Orange Sauce, 451.
Queen of, 436.
Rice, 422.
Silver, 453.
Sponge Batter, 450.
Stale Cake, 436-
Strawberry, 454.
Puff, 435-
Suet, 425.
Swedish, 447.
Tapioca, 420-428-443.
Tipsy, 448.
Webster, 459.
Yorkshire, 143.
Pudding Sauces, 415-474.
Puff Pie (Delicate), 409.
Puff Pudding (Strawberry), 435,
Puffs, 313, 452.
INDEX.
623
Punch.
Milk, 585.
Roman, 477.
QUAIL, 231-232.
RABBITS, 235.
To choose, 56.
Raisins, How to stone, 605.
Ramekins, 312.
Rare-bit, Welsh, 310-311.
Rhubarb (Pie plant), 49-57 2 -
Rice.
Baked, 285.
Boiled, 284.
Curry of, 285.
Gems, 364.
Griddle Cakes, 373.
Hash, 154.
Jelly, 586.
Muffins, 368.
Pudding, 422-474.
Water, 584.
Roasting, 58.
Time-table for, 69.
SALADS, 292.
Fish, 301.
Lettuce, 304.
Lobster, 300.
Potato, 303.
Sandwiches, 306.
Tomato, 302.
Vegetable, 301.
Notes on, 306.
Vegetables for, 306.
Washer (cut of), 39.
Salad Dressing, 293-298.
Salmon (canned), in.
Salsify (Oyster Plant), 286.
Sandwiches.
Chicken, 224.
Ham, 197.
Salad, 306.
Sardines, How to serve, 609.
Sauces.
For Fish, 134.
Bechamel, 140.
Brown, 136.
Cream, 137.
Drawn Butter, 136.
Egg, 140.
Hollandaise, 138.
Lobster, 141.
Maitre d'Hotel, 139.
Mustard Cream, 141.
Oyster, 140.
Tartare, 139.
Tomato, 138.
White, 137.
Sauces.
For Meats.
Apple, 570.
Brain, 168.
Caper, 174.
Celery, 208.
Chestnut, 207.
Cranberry, 206.
Mint, 182.
Mushroom, 144-210.
Onion, 157.
Spanish, 179.
For Puddings.
Brandy, 440-448.
Chocolate,'422.
Cream, 430-451-4854
Custard, 416.
Soft, 448-
Egg, 435-
Fancy, 445.
Hard, 429.
Lemon, 428.
Milk, 415.
Montrose, 474.
Nutmeg, 447.
Orange, 451.
Snow, 426.
Soft Custard, 448.
Strawberry, 436.
Sugar 444.
Vanilla, 441.
Wine, 432-434-460.
Sausages.
Casings, 192.
Mutton and Oyster, 181.
Pork, 191.
To Cook, 192.
Sauteing, 64.
Scales (cut), 40.
Scollops, 131.
Scrapple, 190-191.
Shad (baked), 103.
Sheep (cut of), 51.
Shell-Fish, 115.
Shrimps, 131.
Sink Rack (cut), 32.
Snipe, 232-233.
Soap.
Bar, How to make, 615.
Bracket (cut), 45.
Shaker (eut), 45.
Soft, How to make, 614.
Sorbet, 477.
Souffle.
Cheese, 311.
Custard, 484.
Orange, 473. <
Soup.
With Stock, 71-89.
Without Stock, 90-95.
Souse, 188.
Spaghetti, 275.
624
COOK BOOK.
Spinach, 287.
Squabs, 234.
Squash, 288.
Squirrels, 236.
Steaming, 67.
Stock, 74-77-89.
Stuffing.
Cracker, 101.
For Calf's Liver, 166.
For Goose.
Oyster, 101.
Potato, 226.
For Roast Pig, 185.
For Turkey.
Celery, 208.
Chestnut, 207.
Oyster, 206.
Stale Bread, 101.
Succotash, 266.
Suet.
How to chop, 611.
Pudding, 425.
Sugar, 605-607.
Sauce, 444.
Sweetbreads, 170-172.
TAPIOCA, 420-443.
Tart.
Almond, 505.
Apple, 399-504.
Cocoanut, 505.
Shells, 503. "
Wells, To shape, 395.
Tea, 554-
Terrapin, 132-133.
Toast, 581-584.
Beef on, 152.
Tomato.
Beef Stewed in, 151.
Eggs in, 320.
Italian, 289.
Omelet, 329.
Salad, 302.
Sauce, 138.
Soup, 90.
Spanish, 290.
Tomatoes.
Baked, 290.
Corn with, 267.
Macaroni with, 276.
Stewed, 289.
Tongue (Beef), 156.
Tripe, 157.
Trussing Needles (cut), 45.
Turkey.
Boiled, 207.
Braised, 209.
Chestnut Sauce for, 207.
Cranberry Sauce for, 206.
Roast, 204.
Soup, 88.
Stuffings for, 206-208.
Turkey.
To choose, 54.
Warmed over, 210.
Turkish Soup, 85.
Turnips, 291.
UTENSILS for Kitchen, 28.
Care of, 26.
VEAL.
And Ham, 158.
Breast (stuffed), 158.
Cu 'ets, 159.
/.icandeau of, 164.
Jellied, 162.
Loaf, 161.
Roast, 158.
Stew and Dumplings, 160.
With Peppers, 163.
Vegetable Cutters (cats), 33.
Vegetables.
For Salads, 306.
In Omelet, 329.
Kind to serve with.
Beef (corned), 242.
Beef (fresh), 242.
Fish, 242.
Game, 243.
Lamb, 242.
Mutton, 242.
Pork, 243.
Poultry, 243.
Veal, 243.
To choose, 56.
Venison, 237, 238.
Vinegar, 611.
Vol-au-Vents, How to shape, 396.
WAFFLES, 368-370.
Waffle Iron (cut), 37.
Water, 13.
Whey.
Cream of Tartar, 583.
Lemon, 583.
Orange, 583.
Wine, 582.
Whip Churn (cut), 46.
Whipped Cream, 471-486.
Wine.
How to serve it, 564.
Jelly, 500.
Menu, 564.
Sauce, 432, 434, 460.
Whey, 582.
Woodcock, 233.
YEAST, 335.
Hop, 340.
Lightning, 341.
Raw Potato, 342.
Yorkshire Pudding, 143.
ZEST, 607.
