Skip to main content

Full text of "Peace, war, and adventure: an autobiographical memoir of George Laval Chesterton"

See other formats 


Google 



This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project 

to make the world's books discoverable online. 

It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject 

to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books 

are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover. 

Marks, notations and other maiginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the 

publisher to a library and finally to you. 

Usage guidelines 

Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the 
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing tliis resource, we liave taken steps to 
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying. 
We also ask that you: 

+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for 
personal, non-commercial purposes. 

+ Refrain fivm automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine 
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the 
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help. 

+ Maintain attributionTht GoogXt "watermark" you see on each file is essential for in forming people about this project and helping them find 
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it. 

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just 
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other 
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of 
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner 
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liabili^ can be quite severe. 

About Google Book Search 

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers 
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web 

at |http: //books .google .com/I 



- I 



PEACE, 
WAE, AND AD7ENTURE: 



AM 



AUTOBIOGEAPmCAL MEMOIR 



OF 



GEORGE LAVAL CHESTERTON, 

FORMERLT OF 

THB FIELD TRAIN DEPABTMENT OF THE BOTAL ABTCLLBBT, 

8UBSBQUENTLT A GAPTAUT IN THE ABUT OF COLUMBIA, AND AT 

PBE8ENT QOYEBNOB OF THB HOUSE OF COBRBCTION 

AT COLD BATH FIELDS. 



IN TWO VOLUMES. 



VOL. n. 




LONDON: 
LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS. 

1853. 



^/^. c. ^o. 



London t 

SpomiwooDM and Shaw, 
New-itreet-8qiur«. 



CONTENTS 



OF 



THE SECOND VOLUME. 



CHAPTER L 

Mods Bevisited. Park of Artillery formed there. Bemoval 
to Antwerp. Armj of Occupation. March to Valenciennes. 
The Town. Straitened Circumstances. March to Ostend. 
A Veteran. A ProUfic Mother. A Ladj Clerk. Reduced 
to Rations. A Loan. Return to Valenciennes. Embar- 
rassing Adventure ----- Page 1 

CHAP. n. 

Mode of Life. Private Theatricals. The Duke of Welling- 
ton's Reception. Removal to Ostend. Sir Oeorge H. Wood. 
A Dutch Commandant's Etiquette: A Prophecy, and a 
Scene consequent upon it. Again at Valenciennes. A Bil- 
let. A Spinster's Reception of a '' Heretic." The Retort, 
and Upshot. Return to England. Reduction, and Retire- 
ment. A Fresh Field of Exertion. Its Hopes and Disap- 
pointments. An aged Lady's Interest with an Octogenarian 
Patron. Other Prospects. Their sudden Disappearance. 
A casual Meeting. Its strange Influence. Visions of South 
America - - - - - - 18 

A 2 



IV CONTENTS, 

CHAP. in. 

An Army Clothior^s Infonnation. Interview with Ck>Ionel 
English. A Resolution to aid the Emancipators. Its En- 
couragement Becommendation. Enrobnent, and Departtire. 
An Embarrassing Discovery. Vulgar Company. Arrival 
at Lymington .... - Page 25 

CHAP. IV. 

The Vessel. Reception and Impressions. A Lull. Visitors* 
A Poet and a Composer. Sailing. A Storm. Put Back. 
Final Departure. Typhus Fever. Deaths. Land seen. 
Gulf of Paria. The Dragon*s Mouth. Anchor. Hasty De- 
parture. Cause. Clearing for Action. Demtir. Beach 
Margarita - • - - - - 35 

CHAP. V. 

Stately Entrance to Juan Griego. March to Norte ; to Pam- 
patar. Mutinous Spirit of the Troops. Its Incidents and 
Results. Prospect of Officers and Men. Margarita. Its 
Condition and Strength. General Arismendi. Rival Chiefs* 
Open Hostility. Threats against the British. Their Pre- 
cautions. Arrest of Arismendi. Retarded Expectations to 
embark. General English. His Conduct and Position 47 

CHAP. VL 

Departure from Pampatar. Issue of Pay. Sail to Porsuelas. 
Barcelona. The Capture, and its Consequences. The Moro 
taken. The Spanish Fleet. A mock Pursuit. The Enemy's 
Escape. Admiral Brion. Poltronery and Gasconade. Cha- 
racter of General Urdaneta. Its Effect upon the Enter- 
prise. The Boldness of the Enemy. Their Overtures to 
promote Desertion. The Effect upon the British. Capture 
of Deserters. Their Trial and Execution. Inroads of the 
Enemy. A Restless Camp « - - - 60 



CONTENTS. V 

CHAP. vn. 

The Condition of the Cause. Incentiyes to Enterprise. The 
Miserable Results of Incompetence. Message to Greneral 
Bermudez. Vacillating Counsels. An excitable Adventure. 
Its Details. Character of Barcelona. A House of Defence. 
Bermudez*s Force arrives. Finds Barcelona deserted by 
the Patriots. Is despoiled and dispersed - - Page 71 

CHAP. vni. 

A new Expedition. A Stratagem to deceive an Enemy. Trials 
of the Bivouac. Dispositions for an Attack. Treachery. 
A Storming Party. Repulse. After Incidents. Prisoners. 
Cold-blooded Slau^ter. Advanced Picquet. Inland Pro- 
spects - - - - - - -81 

CHAP. IX. 

Promotion. A novel March. Indian Gluttony. Real Sleep. 
A wild Mountain Aspect. A rural Breakfast. Stormy 
Incidents. Cumanaooa, and superlative Tobacco. Moun- 
tain Streams, and their Dangers. The last of the Hills. 
A Peep upon the plains. A swollen River, and a Court 
Martial - - - - - - 91 

CHAP. X. 

The Plains. Fever, and Loss of Sword. Maturin. A Sama- 
ritan. Our Position. Rude Structures and a rude Capital. 
Rats. Hospitals without Medicines. News from the Seat 
of Government. Arismendi in Power. Greneral Marino in 
Command. A combined Plan of Escape - - 102 

CHAP. XI. 

Death of Greneral English. Introduction to Marino. Leave to 
go to Angostura. Departure from Maturin. The Wilder- 
ness. Animal Life, and natural Difficulties. The Orinoco. 
Barancas. The British Flag. National Enthusiasm, and 
its poetic Result • • . • . 114 



VI CONTENTS. 

CHAP. xn. 

Embarked on the Orinoco. A Tree bearing strange Fruit. 
The Town of Guyana. Angostura. Interdiction to quit the 
Country, ynusual Hospitality. Seized with yellow Fever. 
A medical Samaritan. Recovery. Possession of a Passport. 
Arrival of Bolivar — his Reception. Dismissal of ArismendL 
Entertainment to Bolivar. A Challenge, and a Dilemma. 
An Expedition. Appointment to the Staff, and Promotion. 
The Honour declined. A Passage secured • Page 126 

CHAP. xm. 

Memoir of Greneral Bolivar. Patriot Chiefs. A Creole Force. 
The People, and the Women of the Country - - 145 

CHAP. XIV. 

Progress down the Oronoco. Indian Gratitude. Disasters. 
Nautical Mismanagement. Extremity. Capture. Change 
of Condition as Prisoners. We quit the Gtdf of Paria - 161 

CHAP. XV. 

A Search by the Captors. A dangerous Letter. Its abstrac- 
tion. Spoliation of the Captured. Cumana our Destination. 
A tardy lancUng. Kind Reception. Handsome Treatment, 
and Departure. A Flechera. Voyage to La Guayra - 172 



CHAP. XVL 

Landing. Altered Condition. Incarceration, with its Reflec- 
tions and Prospect. Unlooked-for Visits. An unexpected 
Entertainment. Sudden Simunons to depart. Interview 
with the Captain-General. Result. Caraccas. An Earth- 
quake. Illness. Inland Destination. The Mountsuns of 
the Cucuisas ...... 183 



CONTENTS. Vll 

CHAP. xvn. 

Maracay. Humane Treatment. Novel Form of March. Va- 
lencia. Increased Mountain Experience. Mules. Turkey- 
Buzzards. IVfidnight Reflections. Arrival at Pao P. 196 

CHAP. xvni. 

Interview with the Royalist Chief. Unlooked-for Enfranchise- 
ment. Grood Entertainment. An Anglo-Spanish Officer. 
His singular History. Native Curiosity to see an Englishman. 
Memoir of General Morillo. Return to the Coast. An old 
Comrade in Captivity. Arrival at La Guayra; there em- 
bark - - - - - - -206 

CHAP. XIX. 

His Majesty*s Ship Salisbury. Her Officers. Scenes in the 
Gun-room. St. Thomas. An Introduction. Depression. 
Generosity of a Spaniard. Sail from St. Thomas. A for- 
tunate French Soldier. Azores. Shoal of Whales. Qua- 
rantine. Bourdeaux. Overland to Paris and Boulogne. 
Arrival in England - - - - - 223 

CHAP. XX. 

Welcome of Friends. Replenished Coffer. Ailments. Author- 
ship. New Views of Life. Application. A new Proposition. 
Its Rejection and subsequent Adoption - - 236 

CHAP. XXI. 
The Prison - - - - - - 246 

CHAP. xxn. 

Supreme Depravity. Strange individual Contrast. Absorbing 
Influence of Drink. Romantic Criminals. Specimens of 
surpassing Ruffianism. Ingenious Plan of Robbery. A 
wealthy Shop-lifter. Remarkable Fraud, and after- Suicide. 
Unblushing Effrontery - - - - 279 



viu CONTENTS. 

CHAP. xxm. 

An unmerited Sentence. Its Results. Case of appalling 
Degeneracy. Titled Delinquents. Irradicable Taint of 
Crime ------ Page 303 

CHAP. XXIV. 

An abandoned Miscreant. Incest and Murder. Matilda 
Hewson. Savage Outrage. Sympathy of Prisoners. Re- 
sults of social Improvements .... 316 



^ ' 



PEACE, WAE, AND ADVENTUEE. 



CHAPTER L 

MONS BEYISITED. — PABK OF ABTUXBRT FORMED THERE — RE- 
MOVAL TO ANTWERP. — ARMY OF OCCUPATION. MARCH TO VA- 
LENCIENNES. THE TOWN. STRAITENED CIRCUMSTANCES. — 

MARCH TO OSTEND. — A VETERAN. — A TROLTFIO MOTHER. A 

LADY CLERK. REDUCED TO RATIONS. — A LOAN. — RETURN TO 

VALENCIENNES. — EMBARRASSING ADVEITTURE. 

At length autumn^began to wear its yellow tint, 
and the Bourbon dynasty appeared to be assuming 
hourly consolidation. The battering train, no longer 
needed, was ordered to retrace its steps to Mons, 
and convoys innumerable dragged their slow length 
along the now deserted chauss^. 

Arrived at Mons, a huge park was formed, of 
which I, under Major Carmichael, had the active 
superintendence. For three weeks I rose daily at 
5 A.M., contriving to reach the Porte de Bruxelles, 
at the moment the gates were thrown open. There 
I was met by numerous fatigue parties proceeding 

VOL. II. B 



2 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTUBE, 

to toil with effective industry, and at length our 
object was fully accomplished, and a park of artillery 
was formed which, from its extent and novelty, 
attracted hosts of visitors from all the circumjacent 
district. 

We gazed upon this wondrous display of our 
country's capability with something akin to pride; 
and I had, here, the delight to receive, before a host 
of officers and men, the special public thanks of 
Sir Alexander Dickson for my exertions to effect a 
work, which was now universally admitted to exhibit 
a specimen of England's prowess. 

Heavy battering guns, mortars, howitzers, piles of 
shot and shells, gins, limbers, Flanders waggons, 
and ball cartridge carts, disposed in studied order, 
and surrounded by a well planted belt of chevatix de 
friscy occupied an extended area, and presented a 
tout ensemble of Woolwich in miniature. 

This gigantic disposition had scarcely been per- 
fected, ere we received directions to discompose the 
whole arrangement, and conduct the armament 
piecemeal to Antwerp for re-embarkation; but, 
before the last fragment of that vast array could 
roach Antwerp, the winter had set in, and it came 
on with a suddenness, and intensity which proved 
most severe. The Scheldt was rendered dangerous 
by the masses of floating ice which impeded naviga- 



PARK OF ARTILLERY. 3 

tion, and we were forced to bide our time^ and await 
the good pleasure of the elements. 

Meanwhile, we were quietly consigned to billets 
varying in accommodation, and had ample time to 
survey the wondrous efforts of Napoleon in the 
arsenal and docks of that city (now well known), to 
fit it for superior maritime purposes. 

The fate of France had at length been discussed 
by the European powers, and the army of occupation 
determined upon. For three or five years, according 
to circumstances, were the various contingents of the 
allied belligerents to occupy her soil ; and the several 
cantonments allotted to the troops had now been 
marked out. Cambrai and Valenciennes, with 
various contiguous villages, and a wider sweep for 
the cavalry, had been assigned to the British forces ; 
and the whole expense of the occupation was to be 
borne by France from a given day in the early part 
of 1816. The Russians (Prussians for a time only), 
Danes, and Hanoverians, occupied selected portions 
of the country, and France, thus physically bound to 
preserve the general peace, groaned under the pay 
and subsistence of 100,000 men. 

The snow yet covered the ground in the month of 
February, when I accompanied a vast convoy, 
guarded by heterogeneous detachments, from Ant- 
werp to Valenciennes. A night's halt at Malines, at 

B 2 



-t PBaCB* WaB. JkSD JLDTSaniBB. 

BroaselB, ac HaL and as Mbns. msv tendta siiowtlie 
teiHona progreaa at sch. a tndii. 

y aienci^mes. a mrtresB iiczennaBs &eqiiQiiiy (sm.- 
teated, waa a lQwtl of aoodly' cdnsanfecemas. La 
dtadei waa wimc die Froicfa. naed m JfyHgiimlft ^ «n 
ban martxatu* The means of innmlatiuo. wceq 
copiooa : and is Teanr dee^ &Be and aoGd walls 
(their approach fflifflnilHd by mnnfizoiiB bastions) 
Bucshc ahnosc der^ ^^*f isusTDExse of the nuxA '^■"wg 
aflaiMlaTira, The towH. was (Tipsrinnsy and the abceeta 
nnmeroas* The ^ Place <f Anns "^ was a fixKaqonre 
conTarnfng die be^ ea&e-honse&. while the Hatd de 
Viile Qceopied one oitxie fice of in. The Floce Terde 
and the cunparG preaoxxai ampts space for pvo- 
menade, and the whole mighx be termed a dearafale 
place of leadence. The naoal want of wnlwlfeh- 
ment, oomnxxi to FrwuA pcovincsd town^ was here 
also dbcemible, azki we took poesesaaa at a time 
when dirt and drizzle izKre^ed its dbfiguiement. 
In a short time, howerer, the £i5ti£oas neatness of 
Englishmen begat extensire cleanliness^ with amne 
faint attempt at embelliAment. ThoSy the streets 
were regularly swept, the ramparts were mowed, 
trimmed, and varioasly improved : the brick houses 
were pointed and their sashes painted, and Yalen* 
ciennes shone forth with renovated lustre. It really 
wore the appearance of a neat and lively town. 



MONETABT AEBANGEMENTS. — OSTEND. 5 

When the Britbh first occupied Valenciennes, and 
other not very distant posts, the arrangements with 
the French government had not been completed, 
and pay, consequently, at the fixed period, was not 
forthcoming. Many not over provident individuals 
found their periodical demands unanswered, and some* 
thing analogous to distress became their portion. I 
can testify that, so unprepared was I for a casualty 
of this description, that I hardly knew where to turn 
for the most ordinary supply. 

At such a moment, and before I had time to seek 
a settled quarter, I was ordered to accompany a 
convoy to Ostend, and to return with munitions in- 
dispensable to the army. It was useless to plead 
want of means, for the daily rations were expressly 
designed to supply our wants. However, I had the 
good fortune to be able to borrow ten francs, and 
with this frail pecuniary resource set off, in the 
month of February, for the distant port of Ostend. 
I was accompanied by a junior of the field train de- 
partment, whose purse was even more slender than 
my own, and passing the neat fortified town of Cond^, 
we were progressing towards Leuze, on the Belgian 
frontier, when I overtook an officer of the Veteran 
Battalion, named Williams, whose detachment we 
had already passed upon the road. 

He was one of those rude, good-tempered sons of 

B 3 



6 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

Mars, who had been elevated from the ranks, and, 
when I overtook him, he was making rapid strides to 
reach the frontier of Belgium, in order to avoid a 
parley with French gendarmes. His speed was 
accelerated by the aid of a stick which might claim 
affinity with a shillaleh, and, brandishing it with 
characteristic excitement, Williams informed me it 
was named "sweet lips," and had, the preceding 
evening, inflicted desperate damage upon the heads 
of some Frenchmen, in an emeute at a cafe in Va- 
lenciennes. Threatened with civic punishment, he 
had eagerly availed himself of his route to Ostend, 
and marshalling his small detachment, he issued from 
that garrison at the earliest allowable moment, with 
a view to secure his personal safety. 

We crossed the frontier — Williams was safe from 
any suspected pursuers ; and, when his followers were 
enabled to rejoin him, they all found an asylum in 
my waggons, and journeyed to Ostend with an ease 
which their outset had not promised. 

I found this man to be a source of never-failing 
aitmsemcnt. Ho told such strange stories of his 
oarly career, and was altogether so singular a spe- 
cimen of a ''commissioned" officer, that I have ever 
•inco, involuntarily, reverted to his deportment, ap- 
pearance, and conversation, whenever the subject of 
raising men from the ranks, to be officers, has occu- 



A VETERAN. — A PROLIFIC MOTHER. 7 

pied a passing discussion. I last saw him' at Ostend. 
He was proceeding to embark, and was carrying on 
his shoulders a load of moveable furniture, followed 
by his wife and daughter. He dropped his load to 
shake hands with me, and suddenly turning round 
roughly, introduced me to ** the womankind." 

We reached Ghent, and there Williams introduced 
me to a merchant named Smith, who invited us to 
dinner, and liberally regaled us. I should not have 
cited this casual entertainment, but for the intelli- 
gence which we received Trom Mrs. Smith, that she 
had been the mother of thirty-two children. In re- 
cording this assertion I had no other reliance upon 
the fact than her own avowal, uttered unreservedly 
in the presence of her husband. I know not why 
she should have forged a gratuitous lie, and especially 
upon such a subject. She was a woman of diminutive 
stature, and had only one eye, but she appeared to 
be active and robust, and seemed still to be, to all 
outward appearance, a happy woman. 

According to the customary practice, I procured a 
billet, and was assigned to the care of Monsieur 
Battaille, then the principal banker of Ghent* My 
apai*tment was all that I could wish for, and, more- 
over, the banker and his lady extended to me every 
desirable courtesy. She was the mother of a family, 
and her eldest daughter, about eighteen years of age, 

B 4 



8 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

was a girl of elegant exterior, who was, equally witu 
her younger sisters, still under the tuition of a go- 
verness. All the arrangements of the family be- 
tokened elegance, and they kept a handsome carriage. 

Notwithstanding all the external indications of su- 
perior condition, Madame Battaille (who was of very 
slender form) was a daily operative in the counting 
house, arrayed in the most untidy dishabille, and 
with her hair in curl papers. With a pen stuck from 
time to time behind her ear, she would cash cheques, 
count out five-franc pieces, seize books and rapidly 
make entries therein, and act the part of an active 
clerk and cashier. When I casually entered the 
banking office, I was perfectly astonished to behold 
the lady, whom I had seen so elegantly doing the 
honours of her table, in such an unseemly attire, and 
in the active pursuit of duties so foreign to British 
ideas of dignity, and even ordinary feminine pro- 
priety. Such, however, was the fact, and it pre- 
sented a strange contrast in the habits of contiguous 
nations. It is affirmed by some, that the conscription, 
which despoiled the country of so large a portion of 
its male population, necessitated the employment of 
females in offices foreign to their natural habits ; and, 
by degrees, the practice became one of prevalent 
adoption. 

Quitting Ghent, and taking the most direct road 



INYOLUNTARr PENUABY. 9 

to Ostend, we halted at Eekloo, and there my very 
small stock of money haying been expended^ we 
were compelled to ask the good lady of our billet to 
cook for us the small supply of meat doled out to us 
as rations. In vain I endeavoured to explain to her 
the exigency of unperfected treaties. She could not 
comprehend the grounds of our necessity, and sighed 
over the poverty of the British nation. 

Leaving behind us at Eekloo a character for either 
poverty or parsimony, we journeyed to Ostend, and 
electrified that unostentatious town by the novel ap* 
pearance of our convoy, consisting of a train of 
waggons, guarded by a competent escort, extending 
at least a mile and a half in length. Here we found 
a small staff, maintained by the Duke of Wellington, 
simply for a supposable last resource. It, too, formed 
an item in the cost to France of the army of occupa- 
tion, and, consequently, the defective cash arrange- 
ments at head-quarters were equally felt at Ostend. 
Our hope therefore of pecuniary succour vanished 
with our arrival 

Happily, I here met with one of the contractors 
for the supply of horses, whom I had known with 
the battering train, and confiding to him our destitute 
condition, he liberally drew his purse-strings, and 
advanced me as a loan the munificent sum of five 
Napoleons. This rich mine of wealth appeared to 



10 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

me to be inexhaustible. I husbanded it with 
care, and it proved sufficient to keep me in funds 
until I rejoined the army at Valenciennes, where I 
found the military chest full, and the credit of the 
paymaster redeemed. 

The same gigantic convoy retraced the route to 
Valenciennes without any very remarkable adventure. 
At Ghent, however, I was accosted by a man having 
the appearance of a Flemish bourgeois, who impor- 
tuned me to allow him to deposit a quantity of 
tobacco in the waggons, for transit to Valenciennes. 
I was then quite ignorant of the large protective 
duty upon that article, on its admission into France 
from Belgium, and refused compliance with the 
request, without a moment's reflection upon the 
object in view. 

I lost sight of the man, and journeyed, unsuspi- 
ciously, until I arrived at Conde, where the French 
douaniers insisted upon searching the convoy gene- 
rally. I resisted the demand simply to save time, 
and at their instance affirmed, upon my honour, that 
there was nothing contraband in the waggons under 
my charge; and I spoke most conscientiously when 
I so averred. Some days after my arrival at Valen- 
ciennes, and when I had delivered over, and almost 
forgotten, my late charge, I was one evening called 
out from the Cafe de la Paix to speak to an individual, 



A SMUGGLE DESPOILED. 11 

whose varied Inquiries had pursued me there, and to 
my surprise I found at the door the identical indi- 
yidual who had accosted me at Ghent. "Ou est 
mon tabac, Monsieur?" was the angry question, the 
moment I made my appearance. It was in vain 
that I denied any knowledge of the subject, for 
increased excitement an^, threats followed every 
syllable I uttered. At length I lost all patience, 
and wrathfully consigned the fellow " au diable," and 
he left me vowing to carry his complaint to the 
general. 

On reflection, I felt extremely uncomfortable at 
the threatened appeal, for although I was really 
ignorant of the trick played off upon this contra- 
bandiste, there was much suspicion attaching to the 
transaction, and I should have found it difficult to 
clear myself from participation in the fraud. It 
subsequently became manifest to me, that on my 
refusal at Ghent the fellow had sought the good 
offices of one of the escort, who had permitted him 
to deposit his tobacco in a waggon, and on our 
arrival at Valenciennes the precious consignment 
miraculously disappeared. 

Whether one or many had been engaged in the 
fraud I could not possibly learn ; but when I sought 
out the corporal and men of the escort (who belonged 
to Captain Maitland's company), and for my own 



12 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

sake endeavoured to unravel the mystery, there 
was, with every consecutive denial, so much waggery 
playing in the countenances of each abjuror, that it 
was clear to me that the whole party knew, and 
relished, the rascally joke. The contrabandiste did 
not carry into execution his threat of appeal to the 
general (doubtless for reasons which he had well di- 
gested), and in time my mind became relieved from 
apprehensions which had not a little disturbed its 
tranquillity. 



13 



CHAP. n. 

IIODE OF LIFE. — PBITATE THEATBICALS. — THE DUKE OF 
WELLINQTON's RECEPTION. — BEMOVAL TO OSTEND. — SIR 
OEOROE H. WOOD. — A DUTCH COMMANDANT'S ETIQUETTE. — X 
PROPHECY, AND A SCENE CONSEQUENT UPON IT. — AGAIN AT 

VALENCIENNES. A BILLET. — A SPINSTEr's RECEPTION OF A 

** HERETIC." — THE RETORT, AND UPSHOT. — RETURN TO ENGLAND. 

— REDUCTION, AND RETIREMENT. A FRESH FIELD OF EXERTION. 

— ITS HOPES AND DISAPPOINTMENTS. — AN AGED LADT^S IN- 
TEREST WITH AN OCTOGENARIAN PATRON. — OTHER PROSPECTS. — 

THEIR SUDDEN DISAPPEARANCE. A CASUAL MEETING. — ITS 

STRANGE INFLUENCE. — VISIONS OF SOUTH AMERICA. 

I CONTINUED With the army of occupation for some 
months^ and as all was tranquillitj and listlessness, 
the daily routine was confined to idleness^ or to such 
pastime as best suited the taste of each individual. 
The guards were regularly mounted^ inspections and 
occasional reviews occurred, but rarely any beyond 
the common-place transactions of a garrison disturbed 
this portion of the army. Subscription garrison balls, 
held at the salon in the Place Verde, private thea- 
tricals, and visits to contiguous towns constituted our 
amusements. 

Much excitement and mischief were produced, by 
the arrival from Paris of a company of gamesters, 
with their roulette table, and rouge et noir, who 



14 PEACE, WAB9 AJn> JLDTESTUBE. 

establkhed tbemBelTes in epackmB rooms in the Place 
d' Armes, where they extensiyelj fleeced the whole 
garrison. The Doke of Wellington applied for, and 
in dne time receiyed, authority to expel them, and 
Bommarily expelled thej were, but not until the 
exhaustion of their dupes had left them little more to 
glean in Yalendennes. The after consequences of 
this egarement on the part of the British evolyed the 
ruin of numerous individuals. For my own part, 
after a loss larger than suited to my conyenience, I 
bound myself by a solemn yow to refrain, and under 
this safeguard I sometimes contemplated losses, and 
a consequent display of anguish, that made me curse 
that most insidious, but ruinous passion. 

The Duke of Wellington, on one or two occasions, 
honoured the theatre with his presence, and neyer 
failed to experience the most enthusiastic reception. 
The whole of the British part of the audience would 
rise, and cheer their favourite hero with prolonged 
shouts of exultation. Upon such occasions, but few 
of the French inhabitants were present, but the 
utmost excitement would prevail without the build- 
ing, and crowds of people would struggle to catch a 
glimpse of the renowned chief. 

Upwards of two miles from the town, a large tract 
of land had been rented, and converted into a noble 
race-course. Plates were raised by subscription, horses 



GARRISON PURSUITS, AND RECREATION. 15 

were handicapped, matches made, and cards of the 
races printed. Two horses, well known at Newmar- 
ket, " Offa's Dyke," and " Charles de Moor," be- 
longing respectively to Sir Charles Smith, R. E., 
and to Colonel Churchill of the Guards, contended, 
to the delight of the British, and the amazement 
of the French. Kacing was then only known by 
name in France, but the multitudes that thronged 
to witness the diversion attested the interest with 
which even the French regarded the sport. 

In the course of the summer of 1816 I was ordered 
to Ostend, and there I remained stationary, and 
inert, for eight months. During that time, we were 
visited by Sir George Adam Wood, who, as Colonel 
commanding the Royal Artillery, with the army of 
occupation, came to inspect the British establishment 
at that port. He was accompanied by Mr. Commis- 
sary Edwards, and courteously invited us all (by the 
way only three in number) to a dinner at the Hotel 
Imperial. He had called upon the Dutch com- 
mandant of the garrison, who happened to be a Colonel 
Macdonald, a Scotchman, formerly in the British 
service, and invited him to dinner also. Either the 
penury or meanness of that officer created no little 
sensation at the dinner table. 

The well-known continental custom of considering 
even the lump of sugar, not consumed with a single 



16 FEACEy WJLS, AMD ADTZSTCKK. 



cop of oofieey as private propertj', and tmirfeczii^ it 
to the podket, waa extended, on tlua orraiiianj bj 
Colond MacdonaHj to some peadiea rpmahring m- 
toadied in the de»ert di^L When die wait)» cune 
in to lemore tiie deaaeit, the cannj Cdooel inquired 
complaoenUy, who woold take more peaAea^ and no 
one replying in the affirmatiTey he Tulgaily tnmafiened 
the whde to his pocket, saying he woold take diem 
home Tor an invalid. The aur pri a e oT Sir Geoige 
Wood, and the wild gaze of eyeiy gnest, testiiw^ the 
nniyeraal di^ost at this ill-bied afylication of a nig- 
gardly local role, ill aoited to polished EngKA society. 
Pending oar stay at Qatend, a Boman CathoKc 
priest of Ghent had predicted the end of Uie worid 
on a given day ; and the period for the fiilfilft or 
£U]acy of the prophecy epeedSlj arriyed. Hie mper- 
atitknisly devoat r^arded this event as certain, and 
one £uDily in particular, who occupied a house look- 
ing up the market-place towards the prindpal diurch, 
had timidly closed the shutters, and awaited with 
prayerful consternation the dreaded catastrophe. It 
so happened that, on that very day, a groom had 
landed some spirited horses belonging to a nobleman 
in Germany, and had no sooner mounted one of them 
on the quay, than the animal taking fright rushed 
with blind speed past the church, through the market- 
place, and dashed his head with demolishing effect 



* 



RESULT OF A PEOPHECT. 17 

against the closed shutter of these confiding devotees. 
The shrieks and sobs that followed the concussion 
caused the door to be forced open^ and the public 
rushed in to behold the prostration and terror of the 
inmates, all of whom believed the day of judgment to 
be indeed at hand. They were at length relieved from 
their alarm^ but the good people of Ostend laughed 
long and heartily at so singular an event on such a 
day. 

In process of time I was ordered back from Ostend 
to Valenciennes, after having made various excursions 
to and fro, to procure what was termed "the sub- 
sistence " of the depot in Belgium. On those occa- 
sions I realised the terrors of the smuggler, simply 
in my zeal to serve friends in France. Many were 
the pieces of bandannahs (upon which the octroi was 
excessive) that I concealed and carried over the fron- 
tier. Certainly the French douaniers of that day 
were very easily deceived. 

Such was the changeless monotony of the garrison 
that I only know, during my last stay at Valenciennes, 
of one single fact worth recording. I occupied a 
billet at the house of one Mademoiselle Glaire, an 
aged spinster, whose demure exterior was an antidote 
to the most casual politeness. It was in vain for one 
to tender her, when she chanced to ope\) the door, 

VOL. IL 



18 PEACE, WAB, AKD ADYENTUBE. 

the paflsing compliments of a stranger. She would 
purse up her mouth, bow stiCDj, and receive my 
divilities with such cold disdain, that at length I 
ceased to trouble her with any sign of recognition. 

Lnmediately opposite to my quarter was a Tender 
of gloves, and chance took me one day into that shop 
for the purchase of a pair. A smart-looking Jille de 
boutique asked me if I were not the '^ Monsieur" 
who lodged chez Mademoiselle Glaire. I answered 
in the affirmative, and the following colloquy ensued, 
of course in French. ** Does she ever speak to you ? " 
** No," was my prompt reply, ** and I have often been 
surprised at her utter disregard of the commonest 
courtesy." "Do you know why?" asked my in- 
quirer. ** No," I replied. ** I have always paid her 
polite attention, only to meet with contempt in 
return. " The young woman laughed outright, and 
proceeded to inform me that Mademoiselle was too 
rigid a Catholic to exchange words with a heretic 

Just at that juncture a general complaint had been 
made to the Duke of Wellington of the late hours 
kept by British officers, and of the consequent dis- 
turbance to private families burthened with billets. 
Instead however of the desired redress, there appeared 
in the general orders of the army a protest on the 
part of his Grace against this interference with the 
independent action of the officers, and a notification 



AN INTOLERANT OLD MAID. 19 

that he deemed each officer's quarter accessible to him 
at all hours. Mademoiselle Glaire^ ignorant of this 
exposition of our privileges, one night, or rather early 
morning, had sat up to let me in with a face sur- 
charged with vinegar, and, dropping the curtesy most 
studiedly insulting, she begged of me to keep better 
hours or to exchange my billet. I was so incensed 
at this climax to her insolence, that I told her in a 
loud tone that my billet was my castle, and that she 
had better trouble her head with her own affairs, and 
not with my convenience. I never saw a person so 
astounded. My fierce look and vociferous denun- 
ciation seemed to frighten the demure old maid, and 
she hurriedly retired to cogitate, and to resolve 
upon the next day's step, only to learn that she was 
powerless on the point which she had resolved to 
contest. Thenceforth she was more civil, and I less 
complaisant. 

The story of Mademoiselle Glaire, and her horror 
of heretics, got wind, and when I left Valenciennes, 
as I did in June 1817, 1 was importuned by Lieu- 
tenant Sherborne of the 1st Boyals (a wild, rattling 
fellow, who observed religiously the small hours) to 
give him the earliest notice of my prospective depar- 
ture, that he might secure the billet for himself. I 
did so, and he obtained it. In quitting Valenciennes, 

2 



20 



would sooD hare caine de^ty to d qJ oie n^ loaeL 

A tomewhat fodden leeolntioii of the Boud of 
Ordnanee effected a eooodenble ledpcrion of the 
fidd tnun departmenl, ud tlie nde of fmkvnty pte- 
TaOii^ I and otlier juniors wexe de^afcched to ^iag- 
land. I joomejed tlnoi^i Ijide and Caasel to 
Calaisy and thenee to Dorer^ and dnlj- spearing at 
'WociwiA Tecared vaj camge upon a scanty modicum 
ofludfpaj. I had now apparent^ to beg^Sfe agaun, 
and looked anrand on all hands for an pJi gitf e pur- 
mat, I need not dwell upon the numerous expe- 
dientSy and their sucoesOTe fiulures^ until at length I 
formed the acquaintance of a wealthy old lady re- 
nding in Cadogan Place, who died scMue few years 
aflterwards, at an age, described in the obituary, of 
102 years. 

She was so eccentric, yet kind, that while I wondered 
at the one quality, I relied upon the other. She had 
lost some thousands by the chicanery of a clergyman, 
who had perpetrated an enormous fi^aud upon the 
public, and upon this aged lady in particular, by 
means of an institution called the ** Philanthropic 
Annuity Company," and she was immersed in law to 
recover what she could of the amount. I dined with 
her often^ accompanied her in her carriage to the cham- 
bers of legal advisers, and exercised a thousand good 



BEDUCTION. — AFTER PROSPECTS. 21 

offices for her benefit. At length she determined 
that I should obtain some appointment under the 
East India Company (she was a proprietress of that 
stock), and assured me that her kind friend Mr. El- 
phinstone^ at that time a director^ would willingly at 
her instance promote my interest. Duly furnished 
with a letter, expressing her desire to enlist his 
services in my behalf^ I waited upon the Director, an 
octogenarian, tall, bland, and of polished deportment. 
He received me with the most courteous suavity, 
read the letter, looked grave for a moment, and rising 
from his seat with a smile, proceeded towards the 
door, which he opened with one hand, while he ex- 
tended the other to me. In a very few words he 
made me understand there was no hope for me in the 
service of the East India Directors, and in the 
sweetest imaginable accents, wishing me ^^all pos- 
sible success in life," consigned me to the halL 

When in the street, I was so impressed with the 
courtly comicality of the whole scene, that my mind 
was too much amused to suffer despondency, and I 
returned to Cadogan Place to report the issue, with- 
out a particle of disappointment to obscure my coun- 
tenance. 

Through the same medium I became introduced to 
a gentleman who had exposed the " Philanthropic" 
bubble, and who was then striving to found a so- 

c 3 



22 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

ciety for insurance generally, and for the grant of 
annuities specifically. After a few interviews, in 
which terms were discussed, I was admitted to act as 
the future secretary. I had undertaken an active 
part in the procurement of recommendations tending 
to effect the object, and, through my early patroness 
Viscountess Perceval (who at that time resided in a 
handsome villa on the confines of Blackheath), I did 
obtain many introductions. These, however, re- 
quired to be sifted, furnished with every requisite 
information, and to be largely treated with. Some 
were valuable and promising, others proved of no 
avail; but somehow or other, a host of eligiUe sup- 
porters arose out of the original source, until at length 
the society was established. In order, however, to 
suit the interest enlisted into it, I was expelled from 
the promised post of secretary, to make room for the 
nominee of a wealthy coadjutor. 

As I had been actually present at the agreement 
for the premises in Chatham Place, and had even 
sought out, and instructed the cabinet-maker who 
prepared and fixed the oflSce furniture, I was indig- 
nant at my rejection, and had on that subject an 
acrimonious dispute with the projector. So soon, 
however, as the angry colloquy had somewhat sub- 
sided, and a lull had enabled him to explain all the 
difficulty of his position, I became so impressed with 



DISAPPOINTED HOPES. 23 

his reasonableness and good fsutb, controlled as they 
were by necessity, that I extended to him my hand, 
and from that day to the present moment have 
numbered that gentleman amongst my most attached 
friends. 

Still, after months of toil and anxiety I had been 
discarded, and was again doomed to seek amidst 
sordid interests a resting-place for my hopes of 
honourable advancement. The office in question has 
for years been firmly established, and now ranks as 
one of the many flourishing institutions in this vast 
metropolis. 

My mind became greatly overcast by repeated 
hopes and disappointments ; and although I had no 
want to apprehend, possessing kind relatives whose 
ceaseless good offices sustained me, still a sort of 
torpid indifference congealed my faculties, and I 
began to think of retiring into Wales, or to the High- 
lands, there to consign myself to a life of rural sim- 
plicity. While indulging in this mood, and straying 
casually down the Strand just near to Northumber- 
land House, I unexpectedly met with a military 
friend whom I had known in Spain, and as he grasped 
my hand en passant he playfully exclaimed, " Now, 
Day boy, for South America, flags, banners, glory, and 
riches," and thus saying he speedily moved on. 

" South America !" I ejaculated, and strange ima- 

4 



24 PEACE, WAS, AND ADVENTUBE. 

ginations seemed instantly to invade my senses. A 
notion flashed across my mind that it would be in- 
teresting to explore that country, and magnanimous 
to aid in the struggle for its emancipation. This 
casual rencontre laid the foundation for an eyent in 
my life, which I shall next proceed to develop. 



25 



CHAP. in. 

AK ABMY clothier's HTFORMATION. — INTERVIEW WITH COLONEL 
ENGLISH. — ▲ RESOLUTION TO AID THE EMANCIPATORS. — ITS 
ENCOURAGEMENT. — RECOMMENDATION. — ENROLMENT, AND DB- 

PARTX7RE. AN EMBARRASSING DISCOTERT. — VULGAR COMPANY. 

— ARRIVAL AT LYMINGTON. 

No sooner had I lost sight of my quondam acquaint- 
ance than I walked on, brooding reflectively over the 
subject he had so suddenly awakened in my mind. 
I, equally with the country at large, had long been 
familiar with the history of that sanguinary contest. 
The names of the contending chiefs, and the alternate 
successes and reverses of either party, had widely 
circulated through the public press. The condition 
of the cause at that moment was promising. Bolivar, 
the acknowledged leader of the movement, who had 
been a fugitive to Jamaica, where he narrowly 
escaped assassination, was now marshalling his forces 
on the plains of the Apure, and had already shaken 
the confidence of the Boyalist commanders. The 
patriot forces had compelled Morillo to evacuate the 
island of Margarita. The navigation of the Orinoco 
was exclusively in the hands of the insurgents ; while 
at Angostura, 250 miles from the mouth of that 



26 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTUKE. 

stream, a congress was assembled, and a settled 
government rudely sketched out. 

I had long wished success to the popular cause 
without ever dreaming of participation in it ; while 
the travels of Humboldt had awakened so much in- 
terest within me, that to explore such interesting 
regions was a bait of no ordinary attraction. 

I went musingly on, and casting my eyes upon the 
walls, read for the first time, attentively, numerous 
large placards posted to invite men to enlist in a 
cause which was, as usual, boastfully lauded in the 
accustomed broad type. Numerous references for 

further particulars " were cited, and amongst others 

to Solomon and Co., army clothiers, at Charing 
Cross." As I was close upon the spot, I hastily 
concluded there could be no harm in making a little 
inquiry there ; and consequently, within a quarter of 
an hour of my friend's singular salutation, I was 
standing near to Solomon's shop, and scrutinising its 
external appearance. 

A window of ample dimensions was furnished with 
the usual display common to such trades; and a 
goodly assortment of swords, sashes, epaulettes, 
cocked hats, military caps and feathers, denoted a 
respectable business. Thus primarily encouraged I 
stepped in, and found Mr. Solomon himself at the 
counter, who answered my questions promptly, and 






PEELIMINAKY INFOKMATION. 27 

proceeded to inform me that nearly 1200 men had 
been enlisted, and that the principal part had already 
sailed. Colonel English, the commander of the ex- 
pedition, was said in three days' time to be about to 
leave town to join the last portion of the expedition, 
then embarked and awaiting his arrival off Yarmouth 
in the Isle of Wight. 

Solomon, moreover, informed me, that under a 
commission from General Bolivar, the supreme chief 
of Venezuela, Colonel English had contracted with 
Mr. Herring (of the firm of Herring and Bichardson), 
to supply the arms, accoutrements, and clothing ; to 
furnish the requisite vessels, and to victual them. 
He gave me the address of the Colonel in Norfolk 
Street, Strand, adding, ** If you desire to go, you 
have no time to lose I " He further promised (since 
he had made the uniforms of all the officers), should 
my services be accepted, to complete my outfit with 
the required expedition. 

From Charing Cross I hurried to Norfolk Street, 
where I found the Colonel at home, and was instantly 
ushered into his presence, to explain the object of 
my visit. 

Colonel English was a man of medium stature, 
with a swarthy complexion, black hair, whbkers, and 
mustachios, and was a person who could assume 
either a most forbidding, or inviting demeanour. In 



28 PEACE, WAE, AND ADVENTUBE. 

this Instance, his reception of me was cold and repul- 
sive, and he tartly informed me, that as he was 
taking out many retired British officers, and other 
gentlemen of good families, he must decline to treat 
with me until mj respectability should be established 
to his satisfaction. That announcement pleased me 
exceedingly, since it bore the stamp of honourable 
caution. 

I quickly replied, that I would satisfy him by the 
testimony of a nobleman, and others of station in 
society, that I was not unworthy to be enrolled in 
« The British Legion," for such was the designation 
of the auxiliary force. The rigidity of his features 
thereupon relaxed in some degree, and he proceeded 
to dilate upon the prospective advantages of the 
service, and the beauty and fertility of the land of 
promise. Finally he appointed 10 o'clock of the 
following morning to receive me, and peruse my 
credentials ; and, taking leave of Colonel English, I 
repaired with all despatch to Blackheath, and con- 
fided my design to Lady Perceval. 

That dear woman, equally with the public at large, 
sympathised with a people who had struggled so long 
and fiercely for emancipation, and instead of shrinking 
at the prospective danger of the scheme, she instantly 
applauded my ** spirit," and encouraged me to adopt 
it. Lord Perceval also, to whom she communicated 



ACCEPTED AND COMMISSIONED. 29 

my errand, echoed her approval, and forthwith a 
letter was written to Colonel English, speaking in 
flattering terms of me, and soliciting his best atten- 
tions to a ** young friend in whose welfare Lord and 
Lady Perceval took a deep interest." This letter, 
duly sealed with the coronet, I deemed a sufficient re- 
commendation, and returned to town, and to my room, 
with a mind agitated by a thousand emotions, to which, 
when I arose that morning, it had been a stranger. 

The next forenoon saw me again closeted with 
Colonel English ; and the perusal of Lord Perceval's 
letter secured me a most courteous reception. The 
Colonel entered more fully into details, and referred 
me (should I require a further guaranty) to Don 
Louis Lopez Mendez, the agent to the republic of 
Venezuela in London, who was authorised by that 
Government to assure to the auxiliary force one-third 
more than British pay, with a grant of land at the 
termination of the contest, more or less extended 
according to rank, or in lieu thereof, at the option of 
any officer, a graduated sum in specie. Meanwhile, 
I received the commission of Lieutenant, with a 
promise that, on our arrival in South America, I 
should succeed to the first vacant company. I was 
forthwith required to subscribe lOl for the band and 
colours ; a sum which, I was informed by the Colonel, 
each of eighty officers had already contributed. The 



30 PEACE, WAR, AND ADTENTURE. 

money was unhesitatingly paid, and I received a note 
to Mr. Solomon, requiring him to make my uniform 
without a moment's delay. I also was furnished with 
an authority to the officer commanding the detach- 
ment on board *nhe Francis and Eliza," lying in 
Yarmouth Roads, to receive me on board, and I was 
instructed to proceed to Lymington within three 
days from the period of which I am speaking. 

I was supplied by a relative with ample funds, 
which, in sooth, I greatly needed, for the uniform 
was rich and costly, and all the accoutrements were of 
an expensive character. Indeed, when we subse- 
quently had acquired practical acquaintance with the 
country, and had tested the rough service which fell 
to our lot, it became a subject of bitter complaint 
on our parts, that we had been seduced into so large 
and unnecessary an outlay. However, I left London 
with a superb outfit, and likewise carried with me a 
goodly sum for future contingencies. 

I procured the requisite leave from the Board of 
Ordnance to go abroad for an unlimited period, nor 
in my conversation with the Secretary, the late 
Mr. Crew (with whom I had a personal interview), 
did I seek to disguise my destination. The Foreign 
Enlistment Bill had not yet been conceived, nor did 
the government of that day appear at all desirous to 
impede the armaments then so largely equipped in 



OUTSET FROM LONDON. 31 

British ports^ and by the aid of British capital and 
sinew. At a subsequent period^ the earnest protest 
of Spain caused a prohibitory enactment; but so 
tardy had the Spaniards been in their expostulation^ 
that at least 4000 men had^ at different tlmes^ been 
despatched to the aid of the patriots^ and arms and 
munitions to an immense amount had also been con- 
signed to them* 

In the month of December, 1818, I started from 
the Saracen's Head on Snow Hill for Lymlngton^ 
Hampshire. As was my constant custom, whether 
in winter or summer, I travelled outside the coach. 
The evening was seasonably dismal, and was more- 
over lowering and threatening ; and as I stood ready 
to mount the roof, I was suddenly accosted by my 
friend Lieutenant Brumby, with whom I had long 
shared a quarter at Carthagena. He had casually 
heard of my destination, and of my intended depar- 
ture from London on that very day, and had visited 
every inn from which stage-coaches started, under 
the hope of intercepting me. He had just reached 
the Saracen's Head, as the horses were buckled to 
the carriage. He besought me, in the most earnest 
terms, to relinquish my design, and hastily quoted 
many authorities to convince me I had been deceived, 
and that loss and disappointment would crown the 
enterprise. After the touching adieus of friends and 



32 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENT UBE. 

relatives, the vast expense I had incurred, and the 
stem resolution to go, which every succeeding step 
had more strongly fortified, it was not likely that I 
should suddenly relent under the passing prognosti- 
cations of an anxious friend. I therefore tendered my 
afieotionate thanks for his solicitude, but told him 
the die was cast, and that I must now abide the 
issue. Still the dissuasive statement of Brumby had 
tended to damp my spirits, and the dejection which 
oppressed my mind was still further increased by the 
ensuing untoward incident. 

I sat in front, behind the box, and immediately on 
my right sat a tall man of respectable exterior, who 
maintained a conversation with a little squab woman 
who spoke the vilest imaginable English. He proved 
to be a retired serjeant of the Guards, and the little 
woman by his side was his wife. 

Ere we reached Hyde Park Corner, rain began 
to descend smartly ; but I was enveloped in a cloak 
that defied wet weather, which, however, furnished 
my neighbour with a topic for conversation. 

" It's a wet evening, sir," said he, and then good- 
naturedly offered me a leathern flask, and invited me 
to take a dram. I thanked him, but replied that I 
never drank spirits. "Don't you, sir?" he an- 
swered ; " I take some gallons in the course of the 
year ; " and, with this introduction, the woman pro- 



UNCOMPOETABLE DISCOVEBY. 33 

ceeded to Inquire if I was going to Lymington ? An 
answer in the affirmative induced a further question. 
**Be you going to join Colonel English's legion?" 
No sooner had I answered "Yes," than she exultingly 
exclaimed, "Indeed, how very strange — why, my 
son is an officer of English's legion !" 

To use a vulgar expression, I was " struck all of 
a heap " at this astounding intelligence, and a cold 
shiver pervaded my frame. The vulgar woman 
continued in a strain of excited laudation of her son, 
and described his countless qualities with all the 
fondness of a mother's love. I asked his age, and 
learned that it numbered seventeen years. I was 
compelled to listen to all her wild encomiums, and 
the recital aroused the utmost disgust and consterna- 
tion in my mind ; and ultimately I sank, under the 
infliction, into a state of painful despondency. 

I inwardly cursed my own credulity, and began 
seriously to reflect upon the next redeeming step to 
be taken. I resolved, even at the eleventh hour, to 
act with circumspection, and, if necessary, with de- 
cision ; but go in such company I swore to myself I 
would not, ** coute qui coute.^^ 

The rain now fell in torrents, and continned so to 
fall throughout a night which I consumed in 
repentance. 

Arrived at Southampton, there was no abatement 

VOL. II. D 



34 H^CS» WJLS, Ain> ADTSirrUBE, 

in A» lOitgii wtttliw; but here we changed coaches^ 
and from SoothtMapton to LyimiigtcHi we journeyed 
Auroi^ a ddi:^, rendered more comfortless by a 
ibriotts gale of wind. My external condition was 
most undesirable, but my internal reflections were 
almost insupportable. 

I had, however, resolved, meanwhile, to act with 
the utmost caution : to see, to judge, and to deter- 
mine ; but to go out with a scrubby set of low 
fellows palmed upon me by fictitious description, I 
inwardly vowed not to do. My own natural pride 
would forbid tmy communication, upon so humiliating 
a subject, to my relations; and the plan which I 
secretly conceived was to quit the expedition, should 
my worst fears be confirmed, and to betake myself to 
some rural spot, where my own means would allow 
me to v^etate, and subsist. 

At Lymington we alighted, still amidst stormy 
weather, at an inn, where a stage-coach dinner was 
provided, and there the son of my coarse companions 
awaited them. He was what is quaintly termed an 
"unlicked cub;" and during the dinner was so 
noisy and ofiensive, that even the waiting-maid 
looked significantly at me, and shrugged her shoul- 
ders, thus silently to testify her disgust. 



35 



CHAP. IV. 

THE YB8SBL. — RECEPTION AND IMPRESSIONS. — ▲ LULL. — VISITORS. 
-»▲ POET AND A COMPOSER. — SAIUNO. — A STORM. — PUT BACK, 

— FINAL DEPARTURE.— TTPHUS FEYEE. — DEATHS. — LAND SEEN. 

— OULF OF PARIA. — THE DRAQON's MOUTH. — ANCHOR. — HASTT 
DEPARTURE. — CAUSE. — CLBARINa FQR ACTION* -" DSMUX. -w 
REACH MARGARITA. 

So Boon as my baggage could be passed through the 
Custom House^ I hh*ed a boat^ and directed my 
course to the ** Francis and Eliza." As I ap« 
proached her in the Solent Sea^ she had the appear^ 
ance of a sloop of war^ was mounted with twenty 
guns^ and floated with becoming ocean dignity. Her 
deck was crowded with soldiers in white fatigue 
jackets, and a sentry, duly posted at the gangway, 
challenged the boat as it approached. I inquired 
for the commanding officer. Captain Low, and was 
informed that he was at dinner ; but my authority 
from Colonel English to be received on board as an 
officer of the Legion was sent down to him, and 
forthwith he appeared on deck. He was a retired 
British officer, and had been adjutant in Sir Dennis 
Pack's regiment. He was tall, and of soldier-like 
appearance, wore a moustache, and addressed me in 

D 2 



36 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

terms of gentlemanlike suavity, tending to compose 
my troubled spirit. Appearances were auspicious, 
and I began to breathe more freely. 

My baggage hoisted on board, I was invited by 
Captain Low to descend, and join my brother 
officers at dinner. I was ushered into a spacious 
cabin, and beheld a long table bountifully supplied 
with dishes, and around it sat some eighteen gentle- 
men, who rose when my presence was descriptively 
announced ; and the very first glance dissipated all 
my recent apprehensions, for nothing could be more 
consoling than their appearance and demeanour. No 
one, even distantly, resembled little "Moore" (for so 
the uncouth boy was named) ; and I sat down joy- 
fully, helped to circulate the wine, which was 
abundantly supplied, and enjoyed a most exhilarating 
evening. 

I experienced a transition from despondency to 
satisfaction, only wondering, perforce, at the pre- 
sence of such a boy as Moore. He, by the way, 
duly reappeared on board, and in the absence of his 
ignorant parents was timid and retiring. On in- 
quiry I learned that his father had been most zealous 
and efficient in the work of enlistment; for which 
purpose he had been employed and paid. His exer- 
tions, however, had so far outstripped all anticipation, 
that Colonel English, as a mark of grateful recog- 



THE BRITISH LE6I0K. 37 

nltion^ had volunteered to enrol his son as an officer, 
and take him to South America under his own es- 
pecial patronage. The explanation naturally tended 
to abate my surprise ; but the fright he had occasioned 
me could never be effiiced firom my memory. 

I shall not attempt to describe the qualifications, 
and previous career, of many of the officers who left 
England on this adventurous service. Suffice it to 
say, that many had served in the British army, and 
two only, as far as we could learn, had left behind 
them tainted characters. There existed at that 
time a wild enthusiasm in favour of the cause ; and 
to such a degree, that an accomplished gentleman, 
named Stopford (connected with the noble family of 
that name), sold out of the Life Guards in order to 
accompany our force ; and a Mr. Brand spent 1200/. 
for the purpose of enlisting men for the British 
Legion, in consideration for which service he re- 
ceived a Captain's commission. Both sailed in the 
** Francis and Eliza," and were consequently my sea 
companions. The men were principally disbanded 
soldiers, who at that period swarmed in quest of 
employment, although other young men of suitable 
stature had not been rejected. 

Another vessel, the " Buncombe," belonging to the 
same owners, was anchored near us equally filled 

D 3 



38 PEACXy WAB, AND ADYENTUBE. 

with troops, and we only now widted for the arrival 
of Colonel English, and a fair wind, to saiL 

The Colonel duly appeared, accompanied by his 
wife, a yery pretty and interesting woman, and Mr. 
Herring, the owner of the ship, with his wife ; and a 
friend of his also came down to bid us adieu. A 
westerly gale however previuled which forbade our 
departure ; and as the vessel was roomy and commo- 
dious, Mr. and Mrs. Herring and their friend were 
furnished with befitting cabins ; and as the contrary 
wind imchangingly blew, they staid with us a week, 
almost daily visiting the shore either on one or the 
other coast. Our band, really a good one, played 
choice pieces after dinner, and we spent a most 
agreeable week In the company of our visitors. 

During this Interval I acquired an unlooked-for 
notoriety. The motto of our corps was ^'morir o 
veneer " (" to conquer or die ") ; and inspired by that 
sentiment, I one day seized a pencil, and without 
premeditation composed some half-dozen stanzas, 
addressed to the British Legion. My poetry went 
from hand to hand until it reached Colonel English 
and his friends, who were pleased to express a high 
approval of it, and the same day at dinner it was 
imanimously honoured with the title of the ** Legion 
Anthem," and was forwarded to London, and 
promptly inserted in the Morning Chronicle. 



POETIC EFFUSION. 39 

The words suited the air of **Ye gentlemen of 
England/' which the band daily played to them^ 
while the company joined in chorus. It was subse- 
quently adopted by the men^ and was sung by them 
incessantly^ and under every variety of circumstance, 
I might almost be excused if I should give it in ex' 
tenso; however^ as I do not look upon it now with 
the favour which it then conciliated^ I shall content 
myself with transcribing one single stanza, which 
ran as follows : — 

"Behold with pride yon hallow*d Isle 
Where freedom's root has thriven, 
Your march is sanctioned by her smile, 
And cheer'd by that of Heaven. 

To plant the tree 

Of Liberty 
Is ever hail*d on high : 

Then falter none, 

But sally on 
To conquer or to die." 

When we were afterwards at sea, a humorous in- 
cident arose out of this Legion Anthem. The 
master of the band, whose name was JRestotiy pro- 
fessed to set my words to an original air, and pro- 
duced one as his own composition. It was, however, 
recognised as the production of the master of a 
cavalry band when stationed at Weymouth, where 
the air had been popular. Mr. Beston copied his 
pirated notes into the regimental music book, com- 

D 4 



40 PEACE, WAK, AND ADTENTURE. 

placently insertiDg, "the words by Signer Ches- 
tertoni, and set to music by Signer Restini." When 
the plagiarism was exposed I need not say how fully 
his impertinent egotism was ridiculed, and the 
affectation of Italianised names derided. 

We passed the Needles and stood out to sea, but 
the wind speedily settled into its old quarter, and a 
hurricane ensued which strewed the English coast 
with wrecks. For three whole days we struggled in 
vain to make head against it, and at length our 
Captain determined to rush through the Needles, 
where the sea was furiously frothing, and taking the 
helm he steered the ship cleverly through the foam, 
and we regained our former anchorage. There we 
consumed three weeks in the daily expectation of a 
favourable change. 

At length the wind veered and blew stiffly from 
the east, and setting all sail, in eleven days we were 
in the latitude of Madeira. No sooner, however, had 
we experienced the sun's increasing influence than 
typhus fever made its appearance amongst our men ; 
and on board the " Francis and Eliza," and her sea 
companion the " Duncombe," suffering and distress 
and many deaths ensued, — the result of men flung 
upon the world to encounter privation, and cast as a 
last resort into this service. Often were we aroused 
from our sleep at night and summoned to the deck, 



MOBTALITT. — GULF OP PABIA. 41 

to hear with mourning hearts the funeral service, 
read by Colonel Stopford over the corpse of some 
unhappy being consigned to the deep by this visita- 
tion. Our surgeon, Fitzgibbon, an intellectual and 
indefatigable man, was almost exhausted by his 
onerous attendance on the sick and dying. However, 
every care that our means afforded was extended to 
the sufferers; and in due time, first the Island of 
Tobago was descried, and shortly afterwards Trinidad, 
to which we were specifically bound. 

We made the Gulf of Paria by the passage called 
the Bocas, and entering by the Dragon's Mouth, 
gazed with admiration on that matchless inlet. It is 
scarcely possible for language to depict its grandeur. 
Indeed, some years afterwards, when I chanced to 
be engaged in conversation in Berkshire with a 
physician (whose name is well known), he affirmed 
that, having travelled in the four quarters of the 
globe, he had never, in that ample field of observation, 
beheld so sublime a spectacle as the entrance to the 
Gulf of Paria by the Dragon's Mouth. 

The channel, of comparatively contracted breadth, 
was flanked by Trinidad on the left, and on the op- 
posite side by a bold projecting point of the South 
American continent. Small rocky islands, rent 
asunder by some volcanic action, divided the passage 
into four distinct entrances. The north-west portion 



42 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

of Trinidad abutting on the sea, was here exceedingly 
lofty and precipitous; the rocky outline displaying 
irregular overhanging masses, jutting seaward in for- 
midable and fantastical shapes. All the indentations 
abounded with wild vegetable excrescences ; and cacti 
with their red blossoms, dwarf aloes, and other ex* 
otics, displayed the tenacity of vegetable life in those 
glowing regions. In short, there was not a fissure 
of this rugged wall but teemed with bloom and 
beauty. Some few broader fragments favoured the 
occasional growth of trees, which, arching over the 
dark tide below, impressed the fancy with the notion 
that they looked tinudly over to scan the secret of 
its ceaseless evolutions. 

At the time of which I am speaking the summit 
was cultivated to the very verge of the precipice, 
and graceful banana trees (the crowning ornament of 
tropical cultivation) waved to and fro as the breeze 
inclined them, and seemed to display their verdant 
crests to allure and to delight the eye. 

The sea flowing at the base, of almost unfathomable 
depth, rolled convulsively on with dark and fearful 
perturbation, working by ceaseless attrition huge 
caverns in the rock, into which it swept with a mo- 
mentum at once magnificent and appalling. 

The chief island on the right of this noble inlet 
was a rock of imposing elevation, split into numerous 



POET OP SPAIN.— HOSTILE INDICATIONS. 43 

protruding fragments^ the main stem culminating to a 
lofty point. Two other divided masses showed only 
the original abruption, with gradually diminishing 
remnants. 

It singularly happened that, as we surveyed this 
splendid piece of natural scenery at mid-day, a huge 
shark was disporting under the solid arch of one of 
these darkling caverns, and it was scarcely possible 
to resist a shudder at the contemplation of such a 
combination of the terrible, acclivous, and sublimely 
picturesque as those objects presented. 

Entering the gulf we found a wide expanse of 
quiet water, denoting by its lighter hue a fathomable 
depth, and with an unruffled surface. We were 
shortly anchored off the port of Spain, the main har- 
bour of Trinidad, and as doubts existed as to our re- 
ception, owing to the well-known hostility of Sir 
Kalph Woodford, the governor, to the cause of the 
Bepublic, it was designed that we should observe a 
respectful distance, in order to be free from his adverse 
surveillance. 

Colonel English and the supercargo went on shore, 
but we were restrained from landing. We were 
visited by a custom-house boat, and its crew indulged 
in unlimited abuse of the patriots, their cause, and 
country. As we had been forewarned of the go- 
vernor's enmity to the cause we had espoused, we 



44 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTUBE. 

concluded that the governor's sentiments had infected 
the government functionaries, and hardly felt surprise 
at their denunciation of our expedition. They did 
their best to dissuade us from continuing our course, 
but, to the honour of the adventurers be it spoken, 
not a solitary individual was deterred from his 
purpose. 

Late in the afternoon Colonel English came on 
board in a state of intense excitement, and instant 
directions were given to weigh anchor. The order 
was obeyed with the accustomed alacrity, and we 
quitted the Gulf of Paria through one of the minor 
passages of the Bocas, while all on board were too 
much engrossed with the absorbing topic of the 
Colonel's excitement to heed attentively the subdued 
character of scenery that marked our outward passage. 

We sailed tranquilly throughout the night in that 
huge bite in the Caribbean sea which embosoms the 
port and town of Carupinar, the island of Margarita, 
the entrance to the Gulf of Cariaco, terminating at 
the Moro of Barcelona. 

Early on the following day we were surprised to 
hear orders given to clear for action, and we saw 
with astonishment this movement forwarded. A 
meeting of the officers was convened by Colonel 
Stopford in the cabin, and then we learned from him 
that Sir Kalph Woodford had, at Trinidad, threatened 



PATEIOTIC PEOTEST. 45 

Colonel English with opposition^ and declared that 
the ^^Fly," British brig of war, would dispute his 
entrance into Margarita, the Venezuelan settlement 
to which we were bound. Colonel English, in the 
madness of his rage, had determined to fight the 
" Fly," and hence our present preparations. 

Colonel Stopford, in a speech of reasonable ear- 
nestness, put it to us to determine whether, in em- 
barking to aid the South American cause, we had 
calculated upon a resistance to the British flag, 
whereby we should assume the character of out- 
laws. "We were shocked at the bare idea, and 
unanimously resolved that we would not fire a shot 
against the flag of our nation ; and our resolution, on 
this point, was communicated to the Colonel. Hos- 
tile preparations were consequently abandoned ; but 
happily the "Fly" did not intercept iis, and we 
made Margarita unopposed. 

We descried the port to which we were con- 
signed ; but the strong and baffling currents, setting 
to the north-west, sent us drifting away from the 
desired port, and we strove in vain to reach it. We 
toiled all day, and throughout another night, and 
part of another day, in a vain attempt to stem this 
current, when fortunately we were observed from the 
bay of Juan Griego, and Admiral Brion (the com- 
mander of the Brcpublic's naval forces) sent out a 



46 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

vessel to advise and to direct us. Thus instructed by 
men accustomed to this sea, we bore up, and on the 
afternoon of the 7th April, 1819, we sailed into 
the bay of Juan Griego. A numerous fleet lay at 
Michor, the flag of Admiral Brion floating from the 
mainmast of the ** Victoria," ** a frigate " of the navy 
of Venezuela. 



47 



CHAP. V. 

8TATBLT ENTRANCE TO JUAN GRIEOO. — MARCH TO NORTE : TO 
. PAMPATAR. — MUTINOUS SPIRIT OF THE TROOPS. — ITS INCIDENTS 

AND RESULTS. PROSPECT OP OPPICERS AND MEN. — MARGARITA. 

— ITS CONDITION AND STRENGTH. — GENERAL ABISMENDI. — 
KIVAL CHIEFS. — OPEN HOSTILITY. — THBEAT8 AGAINST THE 

BRITISH. THEIR PRECAUTIONS. — ARREST OF ARISMENDI. — RE- 

TABDED EXPECTATIONS TO EMBARK. — GENERAL ENGLISH. — HIS 
CONDUCT AND POSITION. 

It was determined that due ^clat should distinguish 
OUF ingress, and consequently the officers^ arrayed in 
their rich uniforms, crowded the deck of the 
*^ Francis and Eliza;" while the colours of the 
regiment, new and beautifully emblazoned, borne by 
the two junior sub-lieutenants, floated from two op- 
posite carronades on the quarter-deck. 

A salute was fired, and duly returned by the 
" Victoria," and we entered the port of Juan Griego 
in this imposing style, to behold the shore lined with 
spectators, and the deck and shrouds of every vessel 
thronged with applauding partizans. 

The same evening saw us not only disembarked, 
but in full march for Nort6, a very pretty village 
three miles from the coast, where we were received 
and welcomed by General Arismendi (a man, as 



4S P£AC£» WAR, AND ADYENTUfiE. 

win be hereafler shown, of remarkable character), 
who inyited the officers to his house, and treated 
them with becoming hospitality. Here I first re- 
posed in one of the huge cotton hammocks for the 
manufacture of which Margarita is celebrated. Not 
knowing the method of adaptation, I floundered 
sadly, and passed a restless night When, their use 
is well understood, nothing can be more luxurious 
than this mode of sleeping. 

We passed the ensuing day at Norte, and then 
marched for Pampatar, a distance of three leagues, 
where the first divisions of the British Legion were 
awaiting our arrival. There we found an hetero- 
geneous, disaffected rabble, to whom rations had 
been sparingly issued, and who had sighed in vain 
for pay. Every thing had been promised to them 
when the last division should arrive ; and our junc- 
tion with them infused a more hopeful spirit. 

The day of promise had indeed come ; arms were 
furnished, clothing fitted, but expectations of im- 
proved condition speedily vanished. No pay was 
forthcoming, nor were the rations distributed with 
systematic regularity. The men were destitute of 
bedding, and the cottages allotted them for quarters 
swarmed with fleas and other vermin ; so that a 
complication of suffering and disappointments fairly 
exhausted their little remaining patience. 



PBOGRBSS OF DISAFFECTION. 49 

The really handsome uniforms of the officers 
served only to remind them of the excessive expense 
to which they had needlessly been put; and every 
heart was assailed by mortification for the present^ 
and by doubts for our future prospect. Universal 
disaffection prevailed^ and the officers determined to 
call a meeting, and to address a remonstrance to their 
commander, who was now promoted to the rank of 
general. 

General English received our communication with 
the utmost displeasure, and directed the brigade 
major to notify to us his determination to suppress 
any such future insubordination, and to treat, ad 
military delinquents, all who should attempt to dic-» 
tate to him. His answer only served to inflame our 
discontent, and the most unreserved language was 
employed by many to express their determination. 

Colonel Blosset, late of the 10th British regiment, 
summoned the officers to his quarters, and, as the 
lieutenant-colonel commanding the regiment, ad-« 
dressed the assembled meeting in terms of reasonable 
and friendly expostulation, and proffered the most 
judicious advice to us. He particularly dwelt upon 
the fact that we were now in a situation which de- 
manded the utmost caution. Tumult and violence, 
be said, could only aggravate our condition, and he 

VOL. II. E 



50 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

implored us to aid him in reducing the men to 

obedience. 

Colonel Blosset's appeal produced the happiest 

effect upon the officers, and all determined to use 
iheir best efforts to appease the excited spirit of the 
men. This, however, proved no easy task, for our 
authority was defied, and all our advice unheeded, 
lentil at lepgth the whole body, by simultaneous 
consent, refused to parade. 

Orders were issued one afternoon to get the 
regiment under arms at all hazards, and we knew 
that some important move was contemplated. It 
was, however, quite useless for us to exhort or to com- 
mand, for a sullen obstinacy pervaded the entire 
body, and not a man would stir. 

I was engaged in earnest remonstrance with my 
company (the Light Company), and was employing 
every art to induce the men to relent, when one of 
our field officers (Major Robertson) came up, and 
sternly demanded why my company was not under 
arms. I explained that it was vain for me to com- 
mand, for that all refused to obey. Without a 
moment's hesitation, he drew his sword, and going 
up to the first man, asked if he intended to fall in. 
The fellow answered "No;" when instantaneously 
the sabre was upraised, and a blow infficted that 
nearly cleft his skull. 



Again^ without a moment's pause, the same ques- 
tion was put to the next, who instantly jumped up 
and professed obedience. His example was now 
universally followed, and the Light Company was 
marched down to the ^^ Salinas " (a series of sandy 
marshes frequently overflowed by the sea), where, by 
some such coercive means, the whole regiment had 
now been assembled. 

A square was formed, and by the secret, and 
scarcely definable influence of disciplinary coherence, 
there stood this band of disaflected men, firm in 
phalanx, and silent as the grave. A drum-head 
court martial was speedily organised (of which I was 
a member), the principal delinquents were forthwith 
arraigned before it, and formal evidence having been 
adduced, each culprit was sentenced to receive three 
hundred lashes. 

The Colonel ordered the customary preparations to 
be made : the triangles were consequently erected, 
and the first man commanded to strip. He was 
about to obey, when the Colonel appeared suddenly 
to relent, and, addressing the regiment, commented 
in feeling terms upon their disappointments, but at 
the same time stigmatised their insubordination. He 
dwelt eloquently upon the danger which open mutiny 
threatened to themselves, and to their officers, equally 
sharers with themselves in privation. He concluded 

B 2 



62 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

however by proclaiming pardon to the condemned, but 
declared his determination thenceforth to discard mer-* 
ciful considerations, and to inflict the full extent of 
every future sentence. The regiment was dismissed^ 
and the men returned to their quarters, only to re-» 
peat, with tenfold aggravation, the scenes which had 
preceded the late useless ceremony. 

"We passed a night of feverish anxiety. Oaths, 
shouts, and execrations, became general: musket 
^hot8 were fired ; and, such was the wild excitement 
of the soldiers, that not an officer could issue from 
his quarters for fear of assassination. Every one 
asked another what this tumult could possibly por- 
tend ? Some counselled acquiescence in the demands 
of the men, which seemed to indicate war upon the 
natives, and the capture of the island. 

The morrow brought with it a lull in the per- 
vading spirit, the result of exhaustion, and the Colonel 
promptly availed himself of the momentary calm 
again to embody the men, and at an early hour, but not 
without immense difficulty, the regiment was again 
under arms, and formed into square on the Salina. 

Once more the drum -head became the signal for 
summary adjudication, and again was I a member of 
the court-martial. There stood nearly 1100 men, 
each armed with musket and bayonet ; and yet such 
was either the mistrust of his neighbour, or, even in 



VACILLATION, AND AFTER FIRMNESS. 53 

this extremity, the instinctive sobriety of discipline^ 
that not a countenance betokened resistance to 
authority. For my own part, imminent as our con- 
dition had become, I appreciated the danger of for- 
bearance, and resolved, at all hazards, but still with 
an agitated mind, firmly to perform a perilous duty. 
The other members seemed equally determined, and 
judgment was unhesitatingly pronounced. 

In this instance it proved not to be in vain, for, in 
the face of this mutinous host, the ringleaders were 
stripped and flogged, without a murmur from the 
ranks, and, on the dismissal of the men, we found 
the example had been successful, and order com- 
pletely restored. 

I can never forget the conviction forced upon me 
by the experience of those two fearful days. I be- 
came imbued with a spirit of stern determination, 
and a new disciplinarian principle seemed to take 
possession of my faculties. 

Henceforth, no breach of duty was overlooked, 
nor the slightest symptom of disorder allowed to go 
unpunished, and, under these improved circumstances, 
the regiment progressed in military exercises, and 
few regiments under the British flag could better 
perform their evolutions. 

Margarita, the island on which we were now 
located, was the external stronghold of the Vene- 

E 3 



54 PEACE, WAB9 AKD ADYENTURE. 

zaelan republic. Its appearance from the sea ex- 
hibited a seared and sterile outline of desert hills, 
wluch indisposed the voyager to jndge fayonrably of 
its internal cultivation* Nor did a casual inland sur- 
vey much belie the outward prognostic. Still the 
island possessed many spots which served to redeem 
this first impresdon, and one good town, ^^ the city of 
Asundon^^and several picturesque villages, betokened 
some advance in civilisation. One spot, the Yalle de 
Margarita, a tropical counterpart of Matlock, ex- 
torted admiration from every beholder. 

Upon the whole, however, Margarita was ill-cul- 
tivated, and rank indigenous shrubs were suffered to 
exhaust the capacity of the soiL Every imaginable 
species of the wild cactus abounded, and was per- 
mitted so to overrun the island, that any divergence 
from a beaten track became next to impossible. 
This apparent reproach to an industrial community 
proved its ultimate safeguard, for the sharp, unyield- 
ing prickles of this formidable plant so galled and 
disabled unskilful interlopers, that serious wounds, 
and long confinement, resulted from the laceration. 

When Spain had decided, after the Peninsular 
campaign, to make a gigantic effort to recover the 
revolted provinces, and General Morillo, with a 
chosen Boyalist army, repaired to the Coste Firma, 
his first design was to capture Margarita, and thus 



mahgahita: its intricacies, 55 

deprive the insurgents of the ports that harboured 
their shipping. He consequently made a bold dash 
at this island, and, despising its rude inhabitants, 
made sure of its easy subjection. 

The prickly cactus, however unthought of, en- 
sured his discomfiture. The islanders, inured from 
youth to its intricacies, and skilful in threading 
them, met him at every turn, and utterly discomfited 
his chosen European bands. Solely owing to the 
prevalence of this plant, all his efibrts failed, and he 
was glad to decamp, after having sustained a very 
serious loss. Margarita was now found to be im- 
pregnable ; and although the whole surrounding coast 
of Queria, Cumana, and Barcelona, was subject to 
the Spaniards, this little island mocked all their 
efibrts, and harboured a squadron of formidable pre- 
tensions. 

Pampatar, then occupied by the British Legion, 
was a fortified village at the south-western ex- 
tremity of the island. It possessed a good bay, a 
fort capable of stem resistance, and was fianked on 
the land side by a bold, and somewhat mountainous 
acclivity, crowned by dilapidated fortifications. It 
had been the object of successive assault and defence, 
and could only be approached from within by de- 
vious passes, which, if disputed, it would require no 
small efibrt to force. I am particular in describing 

E 4 



5i TEACE, WAS, ASD ADTESTUSIL 

its iBtnc^die^ in order the mone strildngly to flhis- 
tiate a fnthoomii^ oocorieDoe. 

When the Britidi Li^on had mustered its endre 
strength at Maigarita, the ishmd was under the go- 
remment of Greneral Arismen^, a naliTe dnrf who 
had risen from the humble porsnit of a fidiemuuL 
He had borne anactiTe part in the reTofaitiCHiary war, 
and had signalised himself by the most sangoinaryj 
and merdless oondact towards the Boyalists. He 
was bold and ambitionsi, bnt yet so subtle and ind- 
nuating that he had contrived to engross the devotion 
of the islanders, who, under his guidance, had signally 
repulsed Morillo and the Spamsh army. 

He aspired to the command of the British L^on, 
which, with about 300 German riflemen, recently 
arrived, and such native troops as he could have 
selected, would have formed a respectable force to 
execute plans which Arismendi was contemplating. 
A respectable squadron, consbting of a sloop of war, 
several well-armed brigs, and many clipping schooners, 
and smaller craft, occupied the bay of Juan Griego, 
under Admiral Brion, a native of Cura9oa, who proved 
to be a most incompetent commander, and was mani- 
festly bent more upon plunder than upon conquest. 
This fleet was supported by spoliation upon Spanish 
commerce, and in that object had been most suc- 
cessful 



GENEHAL ARISMEKDI. 57 

Here^ then^ Arismendi had in prospect abundant 
transport for hb favourite enterprise, and was actively 
employed in pre-arrangement, when his darling 
scheme was annihilated by the arrival of General 
Urdaneta, with a commission from Bolivar to assume 
the command of the troops, and to conduct an expe- 
dition which the President himself had determined 
upon. The fallen countenance of the island chief re- 
vealed the secret perturbation of his heart, and a ma- 
lignant desire to thwart his opponent became hourly 
more observable. At length the dispute between the 
rival chiefs became so implacable that no alternative 
remained but for one or the other to succumb. 

Whether Arismendi had actually appealed to his 
island partizans, or whether he was accused of doing 
so merely to ground a plea for overt hostility on the 
part of Urdaneta, is a matter of doubt ; but one day 
we were surprised by the arrival of a boat at Pam- 
patar, conveying General Valdes, the next in com- 
mand to Urdaneta, sent expressly to warn the British 
Legion against a concerted coup d^armes to surprise 
and annihilate them. The island militia was said to 
have been aroused, and a plan formed to massacre 
the foreign troops at Pampatar. 

Here, therefore, in our adopted country, and while 
supporting our chosen cause, did we find ourselves 
suddenly counselled to defend our lives against the 



lamm went poooipdf nade to aeane ocb- porition. 
The piffftff were cee^ied, the giisrds trelledy and 
irtroog^ portict arned todie teedi m^bllj' patroDedy to 
waldi and lepel as j posoUe aggieaA m. 

At kf^di the bf^ of war, ^Ubertador/snddeiilj 
andbored in tibe kufxxir of Pampdar, btiBging as 
prifooer Genoal Ariwncndi, wlio bad been arrested 
at bii boose at Xort^, and Knt for eomplete seconty 
to tbtf port* A guard of the ^foitidi Ije^on to act 
as marines daity tocdk qwoal diarge of tbe captiTe^ 
mttil anrangements ooidd be made to forward bun for 
trial to Angostura, and all kinds oX anister reports 
oonoenmig bis fntmre faXe were in drcolatk>n. 

For four snooeseiTe montbs dSA we occupy Pam- 
patar, daily exdted, but weekly and monthly tanta- 
lised by current rumours of prospectiTe embarkation, 
ending in an inactivity which was podtiyely suicidal. 
A projected expedition to the Main was most mis- 
chievously retarded, to the great injury both of our 
resources, and our zeal and enthusiasm for the cause. 

Meanwhile, nothing would have disturbed our well- 
sustained discipline but the irregular issue of rations, 
owing solely to the absence of foresight and business- 
like arrangement. 

Increased alienation between General English and 
the officers occurred, until we were led to regard him 
^n the light of an enemy. Our interests thenceforth 



SORDID MOTIVES OF GENERAL ENGLISH. 59 

became distinct ; but here we first began to divine 
the secret of his position. 

General English had stipulated for the repayment 
to Herring and Kichardson, for their equipment of 
this expedition, by the embarkation of mules for the 
colonies, and out of that fund English was to receive 
his acknowledged quota. The ships, consequently, 
after the disembarkation of the troops, awaited the 
fulfilment of this promise ; but waited in vain. 

It was one of the weakest points of the Repub- 
lican government to enter into any undertaking in 
order to insure immediate succour, of whatever de- 
scription, without a moment's disposition to fulfil their 
contracts. It was the damning feature in this other- 
wise noble struggle, and cast a stain upon the honour 
of the Bepublic which spread universal distrust and 
dismay amongst all who had sought commercial in- 
tercourse with it. 

In the instance of English and his trained bands, 
the disregard of contracts sealed and settled in Europe 
became invested with the character of well-merited 
retribution. There could not remain a doubt that 
sordid calculations had actuated him, and that he had 
organised a force by chicanery and misrepresentation, 
solely for his own personal aggrandisement. When, 
therefore, he himself experienced faithlessness, it was 
but an equitable reaction upon his own selfish designs. 



u 



jjEE ^i: 




laaju'^ 




?tr-a. 




iMe iCatiAii* ^azuBKac Tm^i. j»_ ^munzoBK. 



/Af ^i//» /yf ll^ 4^ vzdHXXCTSiALie, szd the exbut^ 
tV/// '/f |>nr'/rmvM rmwMa. For four moode had we 
),^jf /Wl/ fWi»^ at 3 A.jf,, and maidii]^ dzmb^ 
«if^< f'/fi$i^Uffimf<itmg. We had struggled against 



ATTACK OF BARCELONA. 61 

mutiny^ semi-starvation, and internal discord; whereas 
it appeared to every keen observer that a week's real 
activity might have sufficed for every requisite dis-* 
position of the fleet. 

When we evacuated Pampatar, the natives 
thronged the roads, and vivas long and loud greeted 
us through every inhabited district. We marched 
on to Juan Griego, and there permission was freely 
accorded to the men to roam at large, and drunken- 
ness grievously prevailed. The following morning 
all was in activity for embarkation, and the scarcely 
sober force was disposed of in the fleet, which sailed 
that very afternoon. 

Barcelona, merely a short twenty-four hours' sail 
from Margarita, was our destination. We carried 
with us whole families, who had been estranged from 
their homes on the main, and who now anxiously 
sought, under our protection, to revisit their native 
localities. Our decks were consequently crowded 
with women and children, and hope and joy mado 
them indifferent to the casualties of warfare. 

Very early on the following evening we anchored 
in the bay of Porsuelas, distant from the city about 
four leagues ; and there a landing was safely eflected 
early on the succeeding morning. Still we lingered, 
for procrastination seemed to be the guiding rule of 
our supine commanders; and although we could 



62 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

clearly perceive telegraphic communications between 
the Moro (a lofty and strongly fortified post at the 
entrance to the Barcelona river) and the town, no 
step was taken to arrest their intercourse until very 
early on the ensuing morning. Then, indeed, we 
marched forward with two field-pieces, which were 
quickly imbedded in mud, and all but deserted ; and 
about noon, after various halts, we reached the out- 
skirts of the city. 

A reconnoissance indicated the desertion by the 
enemy of the town, after a futile attempt to bum the 
bridge, over a river shoal but broad. We saved the 
bridge, and rushed sword in hand into the town, only 
to find it deserted by the enemy, and completely in 
our possession. Guards were established, and then 
the troops were allowed to roam at large, and, inde- 
pendently, to chose their quarters. Whether by 
accident or design I cannot say, but ardent spirits 
were found in every deserted house; and thence 
ensued a scene of the most appalling inebri^ition, 
which produced rioting and disorganisation. 

Late in the evening we received orders to with- 
draw the troops to a suburb beyond the bridge, and 
sleep at length restored the men to their senses. 

At sunrise the following morning, several compa- 
nies (mine amongst the number) were marched to the 
attack of the Moro, distant from Barcelona about two 



CAPTURE OF THE MOBO. 63 

leagnes. The fleet had moved from Porsuelas^ and 
bad anchored without the range of the guns of the 
fortress, but a swarm of boats indicated, on our ap- 
proach, a settled purpose to assault the citadel. The 
Spanish garrison, however, alarmed by our active pre- 
parations, had determined to seek safety in flight, and 
abandoning an almost impregnable position, they 
rushed down from their elevated post, and fled into 
the open country, after firing at the advancing troops 
two guns. 

The Commandant, and a few of the garrison, the 
last to retire, were intercepted and killed. The slain 
Were stripped forthwith, and their bodies, pierced 
with wounds, were suffered to lie unburied, and 
became the prey of various species of vultures, espe- 
cially the Turkey-buzzards, which abound in these 
regions ; a few prisoners also were taken. 

We took quiet possession of the Moro, and the 
more we surveyed it, the more were we surprised to 
find so strong a hold thus tamely forsaken. We 
found it well stored with provisions, and manifestly 
calculated to make a stout defence. 

But now a fresh cause of excitement arose. The 
Spanish fleet had been despatched from Cumana, in 
order to succour the Moro, and was anchored in the 
very bay of Porsuelas, which we had so recently left. 
We subsequently learned that Admiral Brion, ere 



64 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

he was assured of the advance of the British Legion, 
had been so alarmed by the proximity of a squadron, 
greatly inferior to his own, that he was wavering 
whether to remain or to decamp. The officers around 
him (principally British) had, however, so urged him 
into an active demonstration, that he was saved, by 
their intercession, from this foul disgrace, and some- 
thing akin to dignified activity pervaded the fleet, in 
order to co-operate with us. No sooner, therefore, 
was the Moro in our possession, than from its apex 
we beheld the boats of the Spanish squadron, crowded 
with men, and pulling vigorously to reach the base 
of the Moro. 

A shot was most unadvisedly fired at them, which 
announced the fall of the fortress, and the boats put 
about, and returned to their ships. The utmost im- 
portunity was employed, in which General English 
(who, to do him mere justice, was not deficient in 
courage) joined, to convince Brion that he should not 
allow the enemy to escape, and at length, when 
precious time had been wasted, by which the enemy 
profited, he reluctantly assented, and volunteers from 
the British Legion, to act as marines, were invited to 
embark. 

I was one of the number, and with a portion of the 
Light Company was allotted to the "Victoria," the 
flag ship. The enemy's squadron had, by the tardiness 
of Brion, got so far ahead, that the pursuit appeared to 



PUBSUIT OT THE SPANISH FLEET. 65 

be a mockery, when suddenly the ¥rind became so 
angularly yarying and capricious, that a collision 
appeared to be inevitable, and all was cleared away 
for action. We had even proceeded so far as to put 
distinguishing badges on the arms of our sailors, to 
mark them as friends in the event of boarding, and 
in the midst of all this animating preparation, there 
stood the Admiral, pale and tremulous, and exhibiting 
all the external symptoms of the coward. 

His demeanour had been universally scrutinised, 
and no one hesitated to aver that the enemy's 
squadron had found safety (for it did escape into the 
Bay of Cumana), first by his want of gallant promp- 
titude, and secondly by every nautical manoeuvre 
that tended to impede our progress. He was, in 
short, a mere mercenary adventurer, and quite un« 
fitted for a chivalrous enterprise. No sooner was 
the enemy protected by the guns of Cumana, than 
this blustering poltroon hoisted the patriot over the 
royalist ensign, and fired a salute of twelve guns, an 
empty gasconade, which became the theme of uni- 
versal derision. 

The fleet returned to Barcelona, and the troops 
temporarily embarked rejoined their corps. We had 
now to await the tactics of the general, and nothing 
more puerile and inadventurous could well be 
imagined. 

VOL. II. . F 



66 FEACE, WAS, A3n> ADTESTUKE. 

Geoenl ITidaneta^ the oommander of die land 
£(ireeSy selected be it remembered hj Bcdhrar himadf, 
mm of £mmiitiTe stature, pale, efffnriiiate, and a 
dare to indol^ice. He was a man so inert, and s^h 
parenll J mindless, that no canse eonld bj posraUlity 
hare been confided to a more incompetmt leader. 
The historjr of tbe world (and I give an nnboonded 
range) m%ht be ranssAed in rain to produce a man 
more mngnlail j disqualified to act with energy. It 
was rain to lock in him for one redeenung charac- 
teristic : not tbe remotest fitness for command could 
be discerned. A miserable sensualist, he took the 
fidld accompanied by two mistresses, and loui^ed 
from morning till night in a hammod^ the slave to 
women and cigars. Enthusiasm and boldness were 
required for the occasion, and might, if found, have 
proved irresistible ; but we, in this man, contemplated 
qualities calculated to extinguish every hope of 
success. 

Without Barcelona, at the suburb of Portugar, we 
continued inactive, until the enemy, emboldened by 
our torpor, made incursions into the city, and in one 
instance slaughtered our soldiers in the very streets 
of Barcelona. 

Proclamations from the royalist chief, printed in 
English, were circulated amongst our troops, and a 
reward was offered to every man who would desert 
to him. They failed not in their effect, for such was 



PROCLAMATION IXYITIXG DESERTION. 67 

the diflgDst of the men at the non-obgeiraDce of 
any one stipalatioa in their favour, that scarcely an 
individoal conld be found to resist the lure, and the 
whole legion was prepared to desert. 

Here let me obsenre, without undue egotism, that 
I had paid devoted attention to my own company, 
and had, to the best of my ability, worked incessantly 
for their advantage. I had, therefore, won their 
confidence, and if there was an officer in the British 
liCgion who could influence the men, I was the one 
to whom they would have listened. 

Consequently, when we learned that these pro** 
clamations had been circulated, and a copy was placed 
in my own hands, I mustered my company, and 
addressed them in terms of the most impassioned 
earnestness. I appealed to them as Englishmen, as 
men of traditional faith and devotion, pointed out to 
them the proverbial untrustworthiness of Spaniards, 
and besought them to cling, for the honour of our 
country, to their motto "morir e veneer." I was 
listened to with respectful attention, but could not 
faU to perceive that my address was unsuccessfuL 
Even my most trusted non commissioned officer (Ser* 
jeant Dunn) looked unutterable incredulity, and 
seemed manifestly infected with the general dis- 
quietude. 

That very evening nearly forty men deserted^ 

F 2 



68 PEACE, WAB, AKD ADYENTURE. 

and it was evident that the whole force was prepared 
to follow their example. A sudden incident of the 
morrow opportunely occurred to arrest this overt de- 
fection. At noon a band of half-naked blacks arrived 
at our head-quarters, bringing with them, as prisoners, 
five British fu^tives, who had sought to join the 
enemy. A general court martial was fordiwith con- 
vened, of which I was the judge advocate, a post by 
the way to which I had been appointed in general 
orders, and the duties of which I had from time to 
time previously exercised. The tact of desertion, 
with a view to reach the enemy, was indisputable, 
and the doom of death was consequentiy pronounced 
upon the whole of the delinquents. 

Without a moment's loss of time, the troops were 
marshalled in the square of Barcelona, and for the 
first time I took the head of my company — the 
second company of the legion, to which I had only 
just been appointed captain. As I knew full well 
the awful nature of the sentence, I felt ready to sink 
under a weight of painful excitement. Again, had 
we the opportunity to test the efficacy of discipline 
under the direst circumstances, for, without a word 
of previous intimation, and before the sentences had 
been proclaimed, the brigade major hastily selected 
two files from every company, and without a mo- 
ment's hesitation did they allow themselves to be 



CAPTUBE, TRIAL, AND EXECUTION. 69 

ranged before a given spot, for a purpose which 
might now be clearly divined. The unhappy culprits 
were conducted into the centre of the square, and 
advanced with an assumed indifference, which ill dis- 
guised their real apprehensions. They seemed not 
to anticipate a sentence to death. 

The proceedings of the court martial were read 
aloud, and the fatal doom pronounced. Then, indeed, 
arose a wild wail of lamentation contrasting mourn- 
fully with the past minute's affected unconcern. A 
communication was made to General English by the 
chief of the staff, that General Urdaneta would so 
far neutralise the rigorous condemnation of the whole, 
as to require the execution of two only of the delin- 
quents, and that lot should determine the sacrifice. 

A few minutes sufficed to decide the momentous 
question between those miserable men, and to witness 
the execution of the sentence upon the two who 
were doomed to die. A volley from the selected 
firing party consigned them to eternity, and the 
troops having marched past the prostrate bodies in 
open order, returned to their quarters, where the 
furor for desertion seemed now to be extinguished. 
But for this timely example, it was more than con- 
jectured that 200 men would have decamped that 
very evening. 

We returned to Portugar (the suburb in which 

F 3 



70 TEJkCEy WAMy ASD ASSfTESTUKK. 

we were located), aod tlKfe, wlnle we remuned in 
dqJotaMe in ac tiyiij dniiiig Ae daj^wewere ii%litly 
ji D iii e d hf ineunioiis finom die enemj, who ifipened 
to be iadebtigMR in die de^n to abnn and to 
annoj wu So fieqnent were their amanltff upon our 
poqnetBy tbat tlie bi^le would wimmnn die whcde 
Ibioe to arms nx or seren times in tke coone of one 
i^^ht* 

The men were fisbidden to take off their aooon- 
tremoits tar deeip, and die oflicers r ^oeed widi their 
awords drawn and pfaM9ed beside them. In the midst 
c£ this ni^idy excitement, I realised die full import 
rfdioee lines in the fire Worshi^iers of Moore: — 

" Upoii wbose eir the aignal sound 
Of strife and death is honrl j breaking 
Who sleeps with head npon the sword 
His ferer^d hand most grasp in waking.** 

Thus we oontmued inglorioosly torpid, while an 
enemy, not half our number, was allowed incessantly 
to molest us. 

Meanwhile, our effeminate general was lolling in 
his hammock, smoking from morning till nighty and 
gambling with his staff. 



71 



CHAP. VIL 

THE CONDITION OP THE CAUSE. — INCENTIVES TO ENTEBPRISE. — 
THE laSBRABLB BBSULTS OF INCOMPETENCE. — MESSAGE TO 
GENERAL BESMUDEZ. — VACILLATING COUNSELS. — AN EXCITABLE 

ADVENTURE ITS DETAILS. — CHABACTEB OP BARCELONA. A 

HOUSE OP DEFENCE. — BERMUDEz's FORCE ARRIVES. — FINDS BAR- 
CELONA DESERTED BT THE PATRIOTS. — IS DESPOILED AND 
DISPERSED. 

That period was one which demanded that ordinary 
vigour should be exercised with merely ordinary ap- 
titude. Up to that moment, the Independents had 
proved their superiority on the open plains; the trials 
of which stultified the ablest evolutions of their 
European enemies, who, in fact, could not exist 
upon them. Morillo, the Boyalist commander, had 
there pursued with energy a foe whom he had de- 
termined to crush, but there he found an enemy 
inured to a region which yielded nothing, and was 
alternately parched and periodically flooded. 

In vain did he advance to find an untiring foe 
retreating with easy celerity, where his men panted 
under heat and privation, and sank exhausted and 
unnerved. No sooner was his distress at its climax, 
and his force disorganised, than this ragged fugitive 

F 4 



72 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

force would turn upon him, harass his retreat^ and 
cut off his numerous stragglers. Assailed by the 
native cavalry clothed in red pouches, or dyed blan- 
kets, under the redoubtable Paez (once a herdsman), 
would the wretched Spaniards find tactics and dis- 
cipline unavailing against a combination of physical 
obstacles which in nowise affected their hardy an- 
tagonists. Morillo lost the flower of his army ere 
he had fully appreciated the impracticable character 
of the plains. 

Thenceforth, he occupied and defended the fertile 
and cultivable portions which acknowledged the king's 
supremacy, from which he could procure subsistence 
for his army, and where they could repose in some 
degree with safety. Meanwhile, the disclosure of 
their strength had emboldened the native leaders, 
who were pressing upon Morillo beyond the waters 
of the Apure, hemming him in, and patiently abiding 
coming events. 

The Royalists had long occupied the coast of Gueria, 
and the whole sea-board extending from Carupinar 
to Puerto Bello, and they bore rule over districts of 
rich fertility. 

The wide and inexhaustible plains were in the 
hands of the patriots, together with the island of 
Margarita, and the navigation of the Orinoco, upon 
whose banks the isolated town of Angostura stood, a 



ADVANTAGES UNHEEDED. 73 

point of difficult accessibility^ but the seat of the 
republican government, and where its congress was 
assembled. It is onlj necessary to consult the map, 
and a cursory glance will show how essential it was 
to the liberating cause that the easy capture of Bar- 
celona should not have proved abortive. At that 
moment in particular, when the distractions of the 
mother country had so paralysed the Royalists and 
emboldened the Independents, it only needed vigorous 
counsels and competent commanders, on the part of 
the latter, to give an impetus to the cause of unspeak- 
able value. From a locality so eminently favourable 
as Barcelona, whence a base of aggressive operations 
might have ensued, the advantages to be derived 
from prompt and energetic measures were incal- 
culable. But what avail advantageous positions, and 
hopeful prospects, under the guidance of feeble or 
mercenary commanders? The sequel of this miserable 
history will give the answer. 

No sooner had Urdaneta captured Barcelona, than 
he wisely despatched a trusty messenger to General 
Bermudez, who commanded a guerilla force of ca- 
valry on the most contiguous plains, and urged him 
to join the invading force with all the horses and 
cattle he could collect. Bermudez, with a prompti- 
tude that did him honour, hastened to effect this 
most important junction, little dreaming of the weak 



74 PEACE^ WAR, AND ADVENTUBE. 

and vacillating character of his brother general, who 
meanwhile was concocting and, anon, abandoning 
other schemes. 

One day we were ordered to prepare to evacuate 
Barcelona, and to march over the mountains to the 
plains, and the next we found this arrangement re- 
pudiated, and a new resolution formed to embark the 
whole force, and proceed to the attack of Cumana, a 
place most strongly fortified. The latter plan was 
hurriedly adopted on finding that the Spanish squa- 
dron had quitted Cumana, and sailed to some other 
port. Bermudez and his auxiliary force were lost 
sight of, Barcelona was deserted, and we embarked 
and sailed for Cumana. 

Before, however, quitting this fruitless conquest, I 
must relate an occurrence which, at the time, proved 
to me of a highly romantic and exciting character, 
albeit barren of results. 

Notwithstanding the temporary suppression of de- 
sertion amongst our men, the Spaniards still clung 
to the hope of seducing them to join their standard, 
and, by means of itinerant natives, circulated secret 
overtures amongst the English troops. A soldier 
named Williamson had been induced to meet certain 
Spanish emissaries, and was one evening returning 
stealthily from the rendezvous, when he was pounced 
upon by a picquet, and hurried to the quarters of 
the general 



AN ADVENTURE. 75 

So completely was the man abashed by his sur« 
prise and capture, that he revealed the truth, and 
implored pardon. The general, and staff and field 
officers, were hastily summoned to General Urdaneta's 
quarters, and after a hurried consultation, an aide- 
de-camp was despatched with a message to me, de- 
siring that I would select from the regiment thirty 
trusty men, and bring them thoroughly armed, and 
provided with ammunition, and prepared for a special 
enterprise. 

Ko time was lost in obeying this summons, and I 
was promptly ushered into the general's presence, 
where stood the fjuthless Williamson, looking the 
very picture of terror and dejection. He was a man 
upwards of six feet high, and of robust proportions. 
I received the necessary instructions, and was pri- 
vately enjoined to put no trust in my guide, but to 
watch him narrowly, and to shoot liim the very 
moment I might perceive he was acting the part of 
a traitor. Be it remembered that this war was one 
of extirpation: death to all taken* in arms on either 
side was the acknowledged rule, and hence the 
feverish excitement of all hazardous enterprises. 

The peculiar nature of the ground had been ex- 
plained to me, and, at a given spot, I was to seek 
for, and dislodge or capture a large picquet of Spanish 
cavalry. The night was exceedingly dark, and our 
course scarcely discernible; but no sooner had I 



76 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

emerged from the town, than I solemnly warned 
Williamson of the fate that would await him should 
he attempt to betray me. He swore to be true, and 
my men vowed to stand by me to the last. 

Williamson must have more than once trodden 
this intricate road, for he seemed to know every inch 
of it. He took us down a steep descent; thence 
over a field of white flowering weeds, so tall as to 
obscure our sight ; we entered a jungle, whence he 
picked his way to a winding path, and at length 
came to the prostrate ruins of a cottage, over which 
we climbed. 

Again, through jungle he found out another path 
so overhung with twigs as to be scarcely passable ; 
and here he notified that we were close upon an 
oblong space, which usually harboured the Spanish 
detachment. My pistols were ready cocked, and 
my men were close behind me. I whispered a caution 
to the Serjeant, and putting Williamson aside, I crept 
with lightest step into the space, which proved to be 
what he had described it. I was the first to enter, 
and the men one by one followed me, only to find 
the spot deserted, and the enemy gone. The ground 
contained innumerable prints of horses' hoofs, so that 
the truth of the man's story became evident, and we 
returned deeply dejected at not finding an enemy to 
encounter. It is possible they might have heard us 



TOWN OP BABCELONA. 77 

amongst the jungle, and quietly decamped, for the 
darkness was such as to favour a retreat to those 
familiar with the locality, Williamson was pardoned 
on my report of his truthfulness on this occasion, 
and he rejoined his corps. 

Barcelona was a town of respectable pretensions. 
It contained a spacious ^' plaza de las Armas," and 
some well-disposed streets, and had, in former times, 
been defended by a citadel which could harrow the 
mind by examples of conflict and slaughter. A pa- 
triot garrison, hemmed in, and reduced to extremities, 
aware also of the cruel death that awaited them, 
should they become prisoners to the Royalists, had 
determined to fire the fort, and perish in its ruins. 
They did so, and the dilapidation resulting from that 
catastrophe had never been sufficiently repaired, but 
remained to testify to the desperation induced by a 
merciless contest. 

The church, a magnificent structure, very much 
resembled a cathedral. It was sacked and gutted on 
this occasion, and every valuable appurtenance was 
removed. In the general despoliation of this edifice 
I possessed myself of some trifling silver relics, and 
had indeed assisted in the authorised search for valu- 
ables. Without the town, the prevalence of a thin 
and weedy species of jungle extending on every side, 
except where the river checked its extension, fur- 



/8 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

nished at once the solation of its insalubrity, and the 
difficulty attending its defence; for the town was 
perfectly open. At Pwtugar, where we had been 
quartered, there stood a fortified building peculiar to 
this country, and originating in the exigencies of 
such a war. I subsequently saw many of these 
structures, which in times of extremity appeared to 
have accomjJished their object, and to have afforded 
a safe asylum to those who had previously been dis- 
persed, and reduced to extremities. 

It was a species of block-house, rudely but strongly 
constructed, usually measuring from 80 to 100 feet 
in length by 40 in breadth, with a hdight of some 30 
or 40 feet. Three several stages, with standings of 
three or four feet, wound round the internal wall, 
accessible to numerous loophcdes or narrow strips, 
sufficient to enable the eye to survey and the musket 
to be directed. If the immured party chanced to be 
well provided with food and ammunition, they proved 
to be impregnably secured In a country which gene- 
rally defied the transit of artillery. 

Such was Barcelona, and such was the position, 
open to the sea and accessible to Margarita, which 
these wretched tacticians had occupied, and aban- 
doned. Before however finally quitting Barcelona, 
let me still further expose their irresolution and 
incompetency. 



A MISERABLE BESULT. 79 

Bermudez, I have already stated, had been invited 
to join Urdaneta with cattle and horses. That wild 
and swarthy chief, whose daring and cruelty had 
taught the Spaniards to shudder at his name, received 
the summons from Barcelona, and with laudable ala- 
crity hastened to obey it. He collected horses 
(which would have proved invaluable auxiliaries 
under our circumstances) and an immense herd of 
cattle, and traversing the intermediate country with 
tact and judgment, he at length safely reached Bar- 
celona, only to find to his dismay that he had been 
allured there to his ruin. 

Urdaneta had decamped, the Spaniards occupied 
Barcelona in force, and Bermudez was fiercely 
attacked, and despoiled of all that precious succour 
which had cost him so much pains to concentrate. 
Most of his force were either killed or captured, and 
the remnant were only saved by rushing over the 
bridge to Portugar, and by defending themselves in 
the block-house which I have just described. 

There he made a gallant defence until night, and 
then rushed into the wild mountainous country con- 
tiguous, and struggled against every sort of privation 
until he had conducted a mere fraction of his followers 
to the confines of the plains, where the rule of the 
insurgents once more insured his safety. 

Here then, at a glance, the meanest observer might 



80 TEACEy WARy ASB ADVliAILR B, 

bdiold z Vj^eaSd. opportonitj defeated hj a series of 
blondav too groos and ImmiEatii^ to admit of any 
aort of paTKatioD, In competent hands, wbat might 
not hare been ejected to resolt from the felidtons 
junction of oor ^kctiTe fbice with that of Bermndez ? 
The aid of ca«by, however dxcomacribed. would _^^ 
hare proired inTahiable; while the mhabitants, 
timidly shrinking from their homes, awed by the re- 
lentless butdieries of the contest, would have taken 
heart and letumed to countenance the cause which 
most of them dcTontly islanded. The first subse- 
quent meeting between Urdaneta and Bermudez 
must have been one of no ordinary interest. They 
did meet at Maturin, on the border of the plains ; but 
what occurred at that strange interview never tran- 
spired. 



81 



CHAP. vm. 

A NEW EXPEDITION. — A STRATAGEM TO DEOEIYE AN ENEMT. — 
TSIALS OF THE BIYOUAG. — DISPOSITIONS FOB AN ATTACK.— 
TBEACHEBT. — A STOBMING PABTT. — BEPULSE. — APTEB INCI- 
DENTS. — PBISONEBS. — COLD-BLOODED SLAUGHTEB. — ADVANCED 
PICQUET. — INLAND PBOSPEOTS. 

Meanwhile, the force before Barcelona had been 
embarked, and sailed for Cumana. The fleet duly 
arrived there, and the troops were landed upon a 
beach of shingles, and there passed the night. What 
with excitement, and the ceaseless roar of the sea 
upon this stony beach, I found sleep impossible, and 
arose in the morning to encounter a cloudless sun. 

A force of some hundreds of natives under Colonel 
Montes (who had long invested the mountain heights 
contiguous to the town) joined us, and we beheld 
with some surprise our tatterdemalion allies. In the 
afternoon we commenced our march by an open space 
which could be easily discerned from Cumana, and 
here a shallow stratagem was practised in order to 
deceive the enemy, scarcely, however, calculated to 
mislead. We marched six paces apart, and this ex- 
tended line was designed to cajole the Spaniards into 
the belief that our force was of multiplied strength. 

VOL. II. G 



82 FEACEy WAS, AKD ADVENTURE. 

The day was cloee and sultiy, and^ as we marched 
fhiDugfa stimted groves, the heat was so intolerable 
that an aide-de-<aaip of Crenend Urdaneta actnally 
died of suffocation. We waded through a broad 
stream and bi vooacked <m its banks, and there passed 
the night. Agun, all posabilitj of rest was forbidden 
by the ceaseless torment id the insects that infested 
the spot. In the morning we marched to an extended 
sandy plain, thinly skirted with wood, which offered 
the minimnm of shdter against a burning sun. 
Moreover, we found sudi a scarcity of water, that no 
search succeeded in procuring it within a reasonable 
cQstance. 

Before us lay a range of gentle uplands, sufficient 
to hide from our view the immediate hilly outskirt 
of the town of Cumana, where bristling batteries, 
watchfully guarded, awaited our attack, and our 
right was flanked by the Gulf of Cariaco. Here 
again, for the third night, I found rest impossible, 
and experienced all the symptoms arising from want 
of sleep, the absence of wholesome food, and the expo- 
sure to tropical heat, with an insufficient supply of 
water. A native force could have endured this com- 
plication of trials without injury, but upon Europeans 
they told fearfully. Another day was thus passed, 
but yet no communication with the fleet served to 
fortify our spirits. At length Brion had discovered 



MARCH, BIVOUAC, AND ATTACK. 83i 

—what an hour's survey might have taught him -?- 
that a channel, without the enemy's range, would 
admit him into the Gulf of Cariaco, and we found at 
length our camp accessible to boats from the fleet. 

An onslaught upon the batteries was now reluc- 
tantly adopted by our general, after a prolonged con-^ 
ference with the British officers, and the following 
morning was aj^inted for this, to us, welcome 
adventure. 

Volunteers were invited to form the storming party, 
and, to the honour of British enterprise be it spoken, 
the numbers were so great that choice became a diffi- 
culty. I should blush to avow that I was backward. 
I was not, and my services, with those of many 
others, were accepted. Of course the night passed 
heavily and sleeplessly, and again had I to ruminate 
upon all past and coming incidents with feverish per- 
turbation unassuaged by sleep. 

The morrow came, and with it the silent muster 
and a noiseless march. While darkness still pre* 
vailed, the entire force was in motion, and staff 
officers stole along the advancing divisions to enjoin 
silence. Two thousand men were now creeping in 
serried array, beneath uplifting crags, and through 
devious defiles. Not a word was spoken, and so light 
was the tread of this obedient band, that nothing save 
the fact denoted their measured footsteps. 

o 2 



84 PEACE, WAK, AND ADVENTURE. 

Guides famished by the guerilla chief Montes 
were to lead the attacking columns to an eminence 
crowned bj the fort of Agua Santa ; a block-house 
defended by a deep ditch, mounting two guns of 
hea^y calibre, and funmhed with aU subsidiary 
offensive missiles. 

So rife however were the jealousies of contending 
chie& during this struggle, that no ingenuity could 
unveil their designs or motives. In this instance 
some latent influence prevailed, and we were unques- 
tionably betrayed. The first of two eminences was 
. treacherously selected by the guide for our ascent, 
wluch proved to be the wrong one, and while we 
were toiling with breathless eagerness to reach the 
sunmiit, and encounter the enemy, day began to 
dawn, and the Spaniards in Agua Santa, discerning 
our intention and divining our error, opened upon us 
a murderous fire, and we suddenly awoke to the con- 
templation of the snare into which we had fallen. A 
German officer named Friedhenthal, hastily con- 
ceiving the treachery of the Creole guide, felled him 
to the earth, and there he lay a lifeless example to 
premeditated faithlessness, although the poor wretch 
had doubtless only followed the instructions of his 
chief. 

Meanwhile, all our secret caution had been uselessly 
exhausted ; the enemy was aroused, and our daring 



A STORMING PARTY, AND A RECREANT CHIEF. 85 

was now put to the test. Down this ill-fated hill 
the party rushed, and, led on by Captain Sadler of 
the British Legion (whose enthusiasm urged him 
forward) we shouted, and toiled up the now well-de- 
fined acclivity, and, in spite of shot, musketry, and 
hand-grenades, surmounted all obstacles, and closely 
invested the fort ; the most elevated, by the way, of 
all the defences of the town. 

And now, other batteries directed their fire equally 
against the besiegers and the besieged, and a com- 
pound of deadly projectiles assailed Santa Agua, in 
order to annihilate us. The storming party num- 
bered about 300, and was supported by the entire 
force below, which, in consequence of the fire poured 
upon it, had successively contracted from divisions 
into sections, and there stood to endure, and to 
support. * 

In a few minutes Agua Santa must inevitably have 
been ours, when, to our surprise and disgust, the 
bugles sounded a retreat, for a panic had seized our 
commander, and not all the entreaties of our country- 
men could persuade the craven chief to persevere in 
the attack. Down this precipitous hill therefore 
were we compelled to hurry, smarting under the rage 
and indignation which such instability of purpose 
could not fail to provoke. ' The guns of Agua Santa 

and those of every fort able to assail us hurled their 

o 3 



86 PEACE, WAE, AND ADTENTUEE. 

fire thickly upon us, and we rejoined the main-body 
with the loss of two officers killed, and seventy-five 
men killed or wounded, so heavy and destructive was 
the cannonade which we had encountered. 

'No language can describe our indignant reproba- 
tion of these wretched manoeuvres. All the puerile 
indecision of Barcelona was absorbed in our un- 
speakable contempt for this crowning pusillanimity of 
our leader. Execrations both from officers and men 
were loud and ceaseless, and many vowed from that 
moment to seize the earliest opportunity to sever 
themselves from a cause thus hopelessly conducted. 

But a truce with these reflections. We had yet 
to combat, and under very strange circumstances. 
The troops had retrograded to a spot supposed to be 
safely distant from the enemy's guns. The officers 
had fallen out, and were crowding to discuss the 
miserable details of this ignoble day, when a round 
shot, fired from Cumana, came booming through the 
air, and fell in the very midst of this excited circle. 
Happily it struck nobody, but no time was lost in 
effiscting a further retreat. 

While this last movement was progressing, a fusil- 
lade was suddenly heard from the advance, and flight 
and pursuit of some sort became manifest. The 
fact was, a party of Spanish soldiers, returning from 
some post on the Gulf of Cariaco, had just landed 



RUTHLESS MASSACRE OP PRISONERS. 87 

in order to escape from an enemy of whose presence 
they had little dreamed. They attempted to cut 
their way through our force, but most of them were 
killed, and some few captured. After this little 
episode, the troops returned to their bivouac on the 
sandy plain, and a march over mountains which 
loomed majestically in the distance, became our 
future prospect. 

We returned to the camp, and the same exposure 
to the sun and absence of all necessary shelter and 
sustenance recurred. The prisoners taken, and they 
were a small part of those who had been sacrificed on 
the instant, were tied to trees, and in that condition 
awaited their doom. Amongst them was a young 
Spanish captain of elegant, and most preposses^ing 
exterior; and as he there stood hopelessly in the 
hands of unrelenting enemies, he would yet smile at 
our casual jokes, and affect an indifference, which, 
from the nature of the contest, could only have been 
assumed. Poor fellow, his momentary distraction 
proved to be the fitful light that so often precedes 
some horrible convulsion, for he smiled his last upon 
this world. 

No sooner was it known that these wretched 
captives were to be sacrificed to implacable inter- 
national resentment, than the British portion of 
the force hastened to employ their best efforts to 

o 4 



88 PEACEi WAB, AND ADYENTURE. 

avert the last extremity. A solemn protest was pre- 
sented in our names to General Urdaneta^ and our 
repugnance to this ungenerous sacrifice was impor- 
tunately urged. Mark ye, who delight in transcend- 
ant liberalism, the answer to our merciful remon- 
strance from the man who, a rabid republican, had 
displayed fatuity at Barcelona, and something ana- 
logous to cowardice in the recent encounter with the 
forts. Mark, I say, this ^^ patriot" in his decision 
upon our representation, and then ponder upon the 
cruel exigencies of such a warfare. " If I allow," 
Bsad he, ** prisoners to be spared who would in their 
turn have slaughtered my followers, I can never 
reckon upon their devotion, and not a man would 
serve the cause. The thing is impossible 1" 

The murder of these hapless men was the conse- 
quence of that decision, and in the dead of night they 
were conducted to a contiguous spot, and were there 
pierced by the rude spears of the natives, until they 
died covered by countless wounds. I subsequently 
went to the fatal spot, and there, with an agony of 
mind which I cannot attempt to describe, gazed upon 
their mutilated remains, and looked with horror 
upon the mangled corpse of that young Spanish 
captain, whom I had seen so recently smiling at our 
passing jokes. 

'^at scene was a death-blow to all my past en- 



mi-. 



THE ADYANCEB 6UABD. ^ 89 

tbusiasm In the Bepublican cause^ and several officers 
whom I shall hereafter name^ participating with me 
in the detestation for cold-blooded butchery, con- 
spired from that moment to elude this detested 
service. 

In the meantime duty was to be performed, and 
the safety of the force to be consulted. That very 
day the general orders designated me as captain of 
the advanced picquet ; and as day waned, I marched 
with my guard to the prescribed position, and was 
admonished that the safety of the army depended on 
my vigilance. 

I have already told the tale of my privation of 
sleep, and its consequent enfeeblement ; and I can 
truly aver, that such was my prostration, that 
nothing but the stubborn determination of the heart 
could have aroused me to undertake this responsible 
duty. In the course of the afternoon I was so ill, 
that several of my personal friends conjured me not 
to go. Although I felt sorely attenuated, yet I so 
dreaded the slightest misapprehension of my motives, 
that I resolved, at all hazards, to obey the call, and, 
mustering my guard, marched to the advanced limit 
of our camp. 

In this instance I experienced what, in after life, 
has proved an axiom. Kesist a momentary besetting 
infirmity; reject the couch, the doctor, and the 



90 PEACE^ WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

draught, and you will regain more strength and 
elasticity than any nursing or compound can assure 
you. The momentous charge with which I was 
invested aroused me from my lethargy ; and, despite 
of sleeplessness and privation, I was active and alert. 

On this occasion I had a rare opportunity of 
witnessing the exhaustless devotion of a woman's 
affection. One of the men of this picquet had been 
followed from England by his wife, who had adhered 
to him through every vicissitude, and had now ac- 
companied him to this most dangerous post. I 
planted my sentries, and allowed the remainder of 
the party to lie down ; and there this faithful crea- 
ture reposed beside her husband, and when it became 
his turn to patrol, she arose, and patiently watched 
his movements. 

A sortie from Cumana had been deemed more 
than probable, but the night passed off without 
molestation from the enemy, and an hour after day- 
break I was directed to rejoin the camp, where I 
found the whole force ready to march towards the 
towering mountain masses which separate the coast 
from the plains. 



91 



CHAP. IX. 

PBOMOTIOBT. — A NOVEL MABCH. — UmiAN GLUTTONT. — BEAL SLEEP. 

— A WILD MOUNTAIN ASPECT. — A BUBAL BBEAKPAST. — 8TOBMT 
INCIDENTS. — CUMANACOA, AND SUPEBLATIVB TOBACCO. — MOUN- 
TAIN STREAMS, AND THEIB DANGEBS. — THE LAST OF THE HILLS. 

— A PEEP UPON THE PLAINS. — A SWOLLEN BIYEB, AND A COUBT 
MABTIAL. 

The death of Captain Sadler, one of the two officers 
who had fallen the previous day, had left the light 
company, the elite of the regiment, without a head, 
and on my return I found myself promoted to the 
command of that company. As I was the junior 
captain, I think I may, fairly and without arrogance, 
record this preference in my behalf as a special mark 
of distinction conferred upon my services. 

I do not believe that in the whole course of my 
life I ever experienced more ardent excitement, 
than, when arriving at this camp, I found active 
preparations to commence this inland movement. I 
was indeed to ascend those mighty mountains, and to 
dive into that far-famed continent. All previous 
enfeeblement seemed at once to forsake me, and I 
trod the ground, not only with firmness and decision, 
but with positive elasticity. 



92 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

As we proceeded from that detested waste, there 
was not an object that my eye encountered, but 
ministered to my delight. Never did I more buoy- 
antly discard all transient suffering, nor was I ever 
more conscious of fortitude to sustain any amount of 
toil and privation. Thus did the impulse of my mind 
add energy to physical capacity, and arm me for the 
forthcoming struggle. 

A gradual ascent conducted us to the base of this 
branch of the Andes, and after toiling up some 
thousand feet of the usual rugged surface, we 
reached the first station, occupied by our treacherous 
ally, Montes, and his band, whence they completely 
cut off all internal supplies from Cumana. Their 
defences were of the rudest imaginable order, and 
nothing but natural impediments, and the astounding 
rankness of tropical vegetation (for here the moun- 
tains were clothed with trees and shrubs to their 
very summits), could have secured this partizan band 
in its position. 

Here we rested for the night, and cattle were 
killed, and fresh meat issued to the troops. 
. This was not an unusual circumstance, but it 
afforded me the first acquaintance with Indian glut- 
tony. Certain Indians had been allotted to the 
officers for the transport of their knapsacks, and a 
filne stout fellow was assigned to me for that purpose. 



INDIAN GLUTTONY. 93 

I may here relate, that our baggage was left behind 
us in the fleet, and we had taken with us no more 
than we could pack into knapsacks, and, if needs be, 
were prepared to carry them on our backs. Still 
there was a certain amount of consideration towards 
us in assigning these Indians to our succour. 

The cattle, as I have observed, had been killed, 
and the offal was accessible to any one. My Indian 
had seized a paunch, surcharged with its offensive 
contents. This prize, however, he suspended from 
one of the natural pegs of an adjacent tree, and 
drawing a huge folding knife, began to scrape aqd 
thus to cleanse it, and bit by bit he devoured the 
whole uncooked paunch. I sat gazing with astonish- 
ment at the process, until I beheld him masticate 
and devour the last morseL When all had been con- 
sumed, he laid himself down and sunk into an appa- 
rently undisturbed sleep. In justice to the Indian 
race, I must say that I never subsequently witnessed 
a gastronomic feat to this extent. 

Ere day-light dawned we marched from this our 
first mountain height, and very shortly had to descend 
to a narrow valley below, whence, from a contracted 
intermediate base, we had again to ascend to an 
eminence so lofty, that the natives themselves de- 
scribed this mountain as the ** Impossible." It must 
have been many thousand feet in height, and cost us 



94 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

novices surpassing efforts to ascend. About mid- 
way, a somewhat extended flat space inspired the 
hope that further toil was unnecessary, but a very 
short inspection of the environs exposed the fallacy 
of our expectations. However, so numerous were 
the stragglers, that here the bugle sounded a halt, 
and for the first time since I had disembarked did I 
experience the luxury of unmistakeable sleep. I 
threw myself down upon the first avsulable spot, and 
for three hours (the period of our halt) became un- 
conscious of the strange scenes around me. When 
the march was about to be resumed, it was no easv 
matter to arouse me to a sense of passing events. 

Again we stru^led and climbed, until the summit 
of this mighty mountain was attained; and then, 
what a wondrous spectacle burst upon our sight! 
Curiosity led us to the highest accessible pinnacle, 
whence we surveyed Nature in her wildest form. 
Full well do I remember the emotions that assailed 
my heart. I literally panted exultingly at the con- 
templation of that glorious scene. I gazed, and 
sighed, and almost wept, at the strange and match- 
less combination of all that was desolate and terrible, 
but yet sublimely beautiful. 

Nothing savouring of human cultivation was dis- 
cernible, but shattered mountain masses, spiral rocks, 
and precipitous falls into narrow uncultivable ravines 



WILD MOUNTAINOUS SCENERY. 95 

met the eye on every hand. Such scenery afterwards 
became familiar to us, but this my first impression of 
Nature in her wildest majesty can never be forgotten. 
It awakened within me a fresh enthusiasm, and pre- 
pared me for a descent so distressing in its effects, as 
infinitely to surpass any amount of pain in the most 
toilsome ascent. 

We halted at the inland base of this mountain, at 
a spot of singular beauty. Crystal waters streamed 
over rocky beds, and rushed impetuously through 
numerous channels carved out by nature; while 
large boulders, which could be reached by a cautious 
spring from rock to rock, offered romantic resting- 
places each for a chosen few. On one hand towered 
aloft the terrible '' Impossible," and on the other an 
extensive ravine clothed with forest trees, the abode 
of wild beasts, and of countless monkies. These last 
we both heard and saw in vast numbers. Some, in- 
deed, were of no ordinary delicacy and beauty. Sur- 
rounding mountains, more or less distant, defined the 
region we were traversing, and warned us of forth- 
coming exertions. 

Here we again slaughtered cattle (which, by the 
way, were easily driven by the tact of the natives 
over such rugged mountains); and upon these 
picturesque boulders we lighted fires and broiled our 
portions. Notwithstanding the fatigue we had en- 



96 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

dured, we were in good spirits, and jocosely spe- 
culated upon the inimitable ^^ tea garden " this spot 
would make if near London, and upon the crowds 
that would occupy its banks and boulders on a 
Sunday. 

We next traversed a pathway flanked by a moun- 
tain of infinite elevation on our left, and by a steep 
ravine terminating in a river on our right, which 
rushed over its rocky bed with furious impetuosity. 
It was now the rainy season ; and, in a moment, the 
heavens became clouded, and a thundernstorm burst 
over us with the usual accompaniment. 

The deluge of waters rushed down this mighty 
mountain side into one or two well-wrought channels, 
and came coursing in a stream of foaming violence 
into the abyss below. Our march was checked, and 
we were constrained to wait with patience the abate- 
ment of the storm. One of our field officers (Lieu- 
tenant-Colonel Harrison) prematurely attempted to 
pass through the stream that intersected our path ; 
but he was carried headlong with it, and was only 
saved from destruction by suddenly clinging to an 
intervening tree, which arrested his apparent fate. 

It had been designed that we should reach Cuma- 
nacoa, a populous hamlet in the hands of the Inde- 
pendents ; but within two miles of that station an 
intervening river had become so swollen by the rain. 



CUMANACOA. 97 

that it was deemed dangerous to attempt its passage, 
and we passed the night in its swampy precincts. 
Even the next morning the passage of the river was 
hazardous ; but still we did contrive to cross it with- 
ou4»the aid of boats, and arrived at Cumanacoa. 

This place had sustained innumerable attacks from 
the Spaniards, who had occasionally reached it by the 
Gulf of Cariaco ; but two buildings, fortified in the 
manner described at Barcelona (the largest, indeed, 
I ever saw in Venezuela), had always proved im- 
pregnable, and no efforts of the Koyalists could 
succeed in reducing them. 

The soil in this vicinity (an extensive level, 
bounded on either hand by the mountains and the 
Gulf of Cariaco) was reputed to produce the very 
best tobacco in the world. According to the natives, 
none grown in Cuba could compare with it; and 
certainly reports from other quarters tended to con- 
firm their estimate of its unrivalled quality. Here 
we rested an entire day, and were compelled to 
leave behind us several officers and men, whom pri-* 
vation and fatigue, but principally climate, had dis- 
abled. They exceeded 140 in number. 

At Cumanacoa we held a general court-martial 
upon eight prisoners who had deserted from Bar- 
celona, and I acted as judge advocate. They were 
all found guilty, and were sentenced to death ; but 

VOL. II. H 



98 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

such [had been their sufferings in the bush, that, 
although their lives were spared from summary 
execution, all, save one, died shortly after, in conse- 
quence of the hardships they had so recently endured. 

The march of the ensuing day was one of me- 
morable trial. Every valley teemed with turbulent 
streams, and foaming cascades. All the former had 
to be traversed ; and most were deep and of trea- 
cherous footing, owing to large round stones, or 
rocky indentations. The floundering, immersions, 
and danger to life were incessant ; and these fearful 
watercourses were found to amount, in one day's 
march, to twenty-five. 

For thirteen days from our outset did we toil 
through this mountain range, sustained meanwhile by 
the allowance of one pound of lean beef to each in- 
dividual, without any kind of addition. In these 
wilds, and elsewhere of a like uncultivated nature, 
we could never discover aught eatable but limes, 
pepper, and guavas ; products, by themselves, more 
mischievous than useful. 

We surveyed aspiring rocky peaks covered with 
snow; watched eagles in their flight, or perching 
upon spiral fragments; and occasionally passed 
through miserable villages imbedded in deep and 
pestilent valleys, dank and sunless, whose occupants 
bore an impress of characteristic wretchedness. 



THE MOUNTAIN PASSES. 99 

Once we lighted upon a half-finished church of im- 
posing dimensions ; but why built there, or out of 
what funds, we could not divine. The roof, which 
was covered in, afforded a fine echo, and enticed a 
few who were unsubdued by fatigue, to sing a suc- 
cession of glees and catches ; about the only pleasing 
pastime which these solitary regions had afforded us. 

When with mighty efforts we had gained the 
mountain tops, we occasionally traversed verdant 
plains, enriched by clear and bountiful springs of 
water, some wearing the polished appearance of a 
racecourse. There we would walk erect and enjoy 
the contrast, only in a few minutes to ilrrive at the 
verge of precipices so rugged and seemingly imprac- 
ticable, that nothing but projecting roots of trees 
enabled us to maintain an equilibrium, and to de- 
scend in safety. For thousands of feet were we 
slipping, and grasping, and carefully feeling our 
way, frequently halting to repose for the night in a 
site so singular, that to sit up and peer over that 
strange bivouac, with its contiguous grandeur, its 
smouldering fires, and countless tumuli of human 
bodies, would constitute a rare scene for the pencil 
of the painter. 

At length we approached the confines of the 
plains, and noticed with ecstasy the decreasing bulk 
and altitude of the mountains. When we stood 

H 2 



100 PEACE^ WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

upon the last elevation, and looked forth upon those 
boundless savannahs^ they wore the aspect of a second 
garden of Eden, and appeared to teem with the 
treasures of fertility. 

Having really quitted the mountain track, and 
pushing onwards to the hamlet of Aragua, our course 
was impeded by the Guarapiche river, filled to over- 
flow by the recent rains. Of greater depth and 
velocity than any stream we had yet encountered, it 
caused great terror to those who could not swim; 
and the danger was enhanced by the contracted 
nature of the fordable part, and by the high and 
tangled banks on each hand of the landing-place. 
Five successive times did I dash across this tur- 
bulent river, in order to encourage and direct men 
in whom I felt an interest. Other oflScers and 
soldiers who were able swimmers did the like, and 
BO pains were neglected to insure a safe passage. 

Still, notwithstanding all our caution, we lost five 
men, who, missing their footing, were hurried into 
eternity down that foaming stream. The big drum, 
too, proving too weighty for its bearer, followed the 
same wild course; but at length, by the aid of 
lassos, the troops had passed over, with the solitary 
exception of one obstinate and timid wretch, who, 
despite of commands and menaces, had sat himself 
down, and refused to stir. Some five or six good 



A DAN6EB0US STREAM. 101 

swimmers were sent over with a lasso^ and making 
it fast to his arms, he was dragged by force through 
the stream. 

It was deemed essential to make an example of 
this stubborn coward. The British Legion was con- 
sequently formed into square ; and in less than a 
quarter of an hour, the culprit received a hundred 
lashes, which a drum-head court-martial had there 
awarded him. 



B 9 



102 



CHAP. X. 

TSE PLAINS. — PBVBE, AND LOSS CMP SWORD. — MATUBIN. — A SA- 

ICABITAN. — OUR POSITION. RUDE STRUCTURES AND A RUDE 

CAPITAL. — RATS. — HOSPITALS TTITHOUT MEDICINES. — NEWS FROM 
THE SEAT OF GOYERNMENT. — ARISMENDI IN POWER. — GENERAL 
MARINO IN COMMAND. — A COMBINED PLAN OF ESCAPE. 

We reached Aragua in the afternoon, and the troops, 
notwithstanding the fatigues of the late appalling 
march, paraded in soldier-like condition; but by 
degrees privation wrought its silent effects upon their 
frames, and within a week the hospital was crowded 
with our sick. 

At our next halting-place on the plains (which, by 
the way, soon lost their attractions for us, since we 
at length found them destitute of both edibles and 
water), many of our men greedily devoured some 
wild berries, which produced excessive sickness, and 
even convulsions. Considerable alarm was felt for 
the fate of many; but happily medical aid proved 
effective, and they all recovered. 

We were now within a short day's march of Ma- 
turin, a town on the Guarapiche river, which gloried 
in the designation of the " Head Quarters of the 
"Hepartment of the East ; " and when I arose in the 



STRICKEN WITH FETEB. 103 

mornings I experienced febrile symptomfl, which made 
me conscious that I was stricken by fever — the na- 
tural result of excessive exertion, and insufficient 
nourishment Step by step I travelled onwards, 
only to be more and more reminded of my inability 
to endure protracted toil, and I reeled rather than 
walked along this desert route, sustained simply by 
the hope of reaching the prescribed resting-place. 

We halted on a woodland spot to rest and to re- 
fresh the troops, and there I experienced so much pro- 
stration, that I could only dose and sigh for prompt 
relief. When the bugle sounded the march, I arose 
to something like consciousness, and moved me- 
chanically, without the remotest conception that I 
had left my sword hanging upon a tree contiguous to 
our resting-place. 

I did not discover my loss till the following morning, 
when my servant sought for it in vain, and then the 
full consciousness of the fact flashed into my remem- 
brance. It was restored to me by a soldier who had 
found the sword thus depending, and unowned. 

All I remember of my entrance to IVIaturin is, 
that I entered a hut occupied by a kind old man, 
who conducted me to a hammock, and exhibited a 
very unusual interest in my comfort. I was too ill 
to inquire further than my own helplessness required ; 
and, to the honour of humanity be it spoken, I re- 

H 4 



104 ^ PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

ceived a careful attendance, which attested the uni- 
versality of civilised devotion to the unfortunate. 

This good ihan, a humble septuagenarian shoe- 
maker, had experienced the extremity of civil conflict ; 
and in his flight and exile had sought a refuge in 
Trinidad, where he had found a secure asylum. 
There he had for some years quietly exercised his 
craft, and had realised all the countenance which his 
unobtrusive calling had required. He returned to 
his birthplace, surcharged with sentiments of benevo- 
lence natural to him, and fortified by his own especial 
experience. 

The good old fellow perceived my extremity, and 
exercised in my behalf all the kindliness of the Sa- 
maritan. Without the remotest prospect of reward, 
he watched me with ceaseless solicitude, and left no 
opportunity unessayed to minister to my comfort. 

Here, then, had Providence guided me to the very 
home suited to my forlorn condition ; and in it I lay 
unmindful of external circumstances, and almost too 
helpless to move in my narrow crib. 

One day the dear old ^^ zapatero" (shoemaker), for 
so he was called, came to my bed's side with a basin 
of chicken broth (I had not eaten for many days), 
and in the kindest accents bade me partake of it. 
As I feebly rose and thanked him, he rebuked my 
gratitude in these terms, of course in his native 



A SAM ABIT AN. — MATUBIN. 105 

tongue : — ** Say not a word, my friend I was a 
fugitive, and was sheltered under the flag of your 
nation in Trinidad. There I enjoyed security and 
protection ; and surely I ought to do for you what 
your nation did for me I" 

Here, in this humble old man, was a beautiful il- 
lustration of Nature's nobility. Poor old fellow ! he 
has long since been gathered to his fathers ; but in 
his account hereafter he would have it to say, — *'He 
was sick, and I visited him I" 

But let me now record the singular position in 
which we were here located. The preceding narrative 
will have indicated our distance from that terrible 
mountain range, which with so much toil we had 
surmounted. Maturin was built (if such a term can 
be ascribed to such a town) upon a flat surface, rising 
gently to the usual level of the plain, from an arm 
of the Guarapiche river. It occupied a very ex- 
tended space, and was the capital of a vast inland 
district. Some few houses were constructed of 
walls formed by the use of rough wooden frames, 
in which materials consisting of mud with some com- 
posite admixture were rudely beaten into con- 
sistency. These, however, were the exceptions; 
for the structures in general were formed simply of 
stout stakes, interwoven with rank dried leaves 
gathered from the wUdemess, and roofed with the 



106 PEACE; WAB5 AND ADVENTURE. 

like materials. The interior was utterly devoid of 
either embellishment or convenience, while blocks of 
wood served as seats and tables, calabashes as dishes, 
and the rudest earthen crockery as cooking utensils. 
A chair, or knife and fork, or spoon, were not pro- 
eiirable ; nor in this ^^ capital" could a sheet of paper, 
or a single pen, be purchased. 

Such was Maturin, " the Head Quarters of the De- 
partment of the East." Behind it was the open 
plain, whence the distant view of those dreadful 
mountains caused me a frequent shudder; but with- 
in a few miles, still on the banks of the river, were 
plantations which supplied the whole vicinage with 
fruit and vegetables. When somewhat recovered, 
I visited one of these plantations, where I observed 
numerous swivels mounted upon traversing carriages, 
and learned that they were nightly loaded, and the 
grounds guarded by watchers, to scare away the 
troops of monkeys, which otherwise would have laid 
waste all cultivation. 

Sometimes I would stray down to the river, ap- 
proachable by a narrow but thick jungle, and there 
sit and gaze upon the turbid stream, for such it 
really was. 

One day, on my return from such a casual walk, 
the good old shoemaker asked me where I had been. 
I answered, " To the river." "Alone?" he in- 



TIGEBS. — A FEUD, AND ITS BE8ULT. 107 

quired. " Yes, alone/' I replied. With the most 
serious countenance, the old man ejaculated, " Never 
again do go there alone, or one day you will never 
return I" He then proceeded to inform me that the 
woods abounded with tigers, and that it was most 
perilous for a single individual to enter them. He, 
moreover, informed me, that of nights those ferocious 
animals would stalk into the town itself, to seek for 
prey. I need hardly say how willingly I forbore my 
visits to the river, or how cautiously I looked around 
me, if ever I threaded the town at a late hour of the 
night 

At a period of total inactivity and in a place de- 
stitute of aught to instruct or even occupy the mind, 
feuds and differences frequently arose to embitter the 
intercourse of the officers. In accordance with the 
prevailing custom of the times, a trifling altercation 
or a hasty word would be deemed to constitute an 
** insult," and a resort to "satisfaction" was fre- 
quently threatened, and sometimes adopted ; and in 
one case the conflict terminated fatally. 

A trifling quarrel between Major Davy (late an 
officer of the British Army) and Assistant Surgeon 
Gray, led to a hostile meeting ; but before it came off. 
Gray called casually upon me, and disclosed the in- 
tended rencounter. He asked my advice as to the 
prudence of his confronting his antagonist in the cos- 



108 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

tume he then wore, viz. his regimental jacket and 
white trowsers; or whether he should doff the former, 
and put on a white jacket also. I suggested the 
latter course ; but expressed a hope that an arrange- 
ment might obviate the last extremity, and thus he 
left me. In the short space of half an hour, I learned 
the melancholy fact, that poor Gray had been shot 
through the heart and fell dead before his rivaL To 
the honour of Davy be it spoken (notwithstanding 
the rashness of the original proceeding), I never saw 
a smile upon his countenance during my after stay 
with the regiment. 

I cannot affirm that at Maturin we enjoyed tran- 
quillity, for our rest was nightly disturbed by a colony 
of rats so multitudinous as to defy computation. The 
materials of the buildings constituted a retreat for 
these vermin ; and in the walls and roofs of those frail 
mansions they reposed quietly through the day, only 
to prepare themselves for the most extravagant 
gambols throughout the night. They were innumer- 
able, and at close of day would begin to squeak and 
wriggle amongst the thatch, until at length the 
irruption was astounding. How they aU subsisted, 
or why the natives tolerated so crying a nuisance, 
became matters of conjecture. 

On reflection, however, we behold, in these and 



THE NEGLECTED SICK. 109 

other animals of unclean voracity. Nature's well-de- 
signed conservatism. Where no drains existed, and 
where every species of refuse was rudely cast forth, 
in a climate, too, favouring rapid decomposition cal- 
culated to poison the atmosphere, the rats and the 
vulture tribe became the agents of an inscrutable 
board of health, and performed the functions of sani- 
tary guardians of the public weaL 

At Maturin rude hospitals had been formed, and 
were shortly surcharged with our sick, who lay ab- 
ject and smitten incurably, because no medical 
appliance of any, even the simplest, kind had been 
provided for such a contingency. There lay a host 
of wretched beings, without bedding, adequate sus- 
tentation, or medical, resources. Numbers were 
afflicted by irritating blains called by the natives 
^^ malditas " which assailed principally the joints, and 
with a cancerous progress extended with every hour's 
neglect. The spectacle which this hospital exhibited, 
was really heart-rending ; and yet, not a single effort 
to allay the torments of these poor creatures was even 
thought of by their commander. 

Meantime this station had been attained ; but why 
so hurriedly, and at such a cost of valuable lives, 
could only be solved by the thoughtless and indolent 
character of the native chiefs. Of these there were 



110 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

two classes : the one brave to a fault and indomitable 
in their native fastnesses, but without an idea beyond 
them; the other more refined in their external 
bearing, but utterly devoid of energy, and destitute 
of the redeeming quality of their hardier brethren. 

I know not any principle that could be supposed 
to guide the latter, unless slothful inaptitude should 
be numbered amongst the requisites for a liberating 
cause. Unhappily, we had to do with a chief of that 
indolent school (the very opposite to Napoleon's fiery 
generals), and his achievements were in the exact 
ratio of his qualities. 

At Maturin we received astounding information. 
Arismendi, the outcast from Margarita, who had been 
sent to Angostura to be there impeached, and 
brought to trial, had arrived at the seat of govern- 
ment at the moment that the sages there assembled 
had learned Bolivar's departure for the conquest of 
New Grenada. As the supreme chief had under- 
taken a march over . extensive plains intersected by 
formidable rivers, and would have to encounter an 
active enemy fortified by mountainous defences, his 
absence was deemed positive, and his return proble- 
matical. Here, then, was opened a wide field for 
those petty intriguers who revel in dangerless casu- 
alties. Bolivar had intrusted the government of the 
republic to Zea, the Vice-President ; a studious and 



POLITICAL CABALS. Ill 

respectable man, who was doubtless well-affected to 
the genuine cause of his country. 

Arismendi, however, opportunely arrived to co- 
operate with a faction; and instead of a trial and 
punishment for his insubordination at Margarita, he 
was elevated to the post of Vice-President of the re- 
public, from which Zea was expelled. 

Here, then, was the man whom Bolivar most dis- 
trusted, armed in his absence with supreme power ; 
and General Marino, an unwearied factionist, was ap- 
pointed to supersede Urdaneta and to command the 
army of the East. All kinds of operations were re- 
ported to be in contemplation ; and suddenly the new 
commander anived at Maturin, and the troops were 
excited by fresh hopes, kindled by a new administra- 
tion of affairs. 

While these events resulted from the political 
struggles at Angostura, the British Legion was daily 
diminishing in numerical strength, and exhausting its 
little remaining devotion. I and others were con- 
templating even the means of escape. We had ten- 
dered our resignations to Greneral Urdaneta ; but so 
numerous were the applicants for the distinction of 
retirement, that the enraged chief threatened volun- 
teers of this class with imprisonment in the fortress 
of Old Guyana. I had been so decided in the use of 
terms to express my abhorrence and disgust, that my 



112 PEACE; WAR, AND ADVENTUBB. 

language was reported to the general, and, in conse- 
quence, I was summoned into the presence of the 
chief of the staff, Colonel Montilla, and severely re- 
proved for my freedom of speech. 

When those unhappy captives had been slaughtered 
in the precincts of Cuenana, many of us had agreed 
to make common cause, and conjointly to abandon 
this unrighteous service. We had from time to time 
conferred upon the means to effect our purpose ; and 
at length, when voluntary resignation had been 
threatened with penal visitation, we began to devise 
schemes for desertion. Major Carver (formerly of 
the 9th Regiment), Dr. Murphy (one of our regi- 
mental surgeons), Lieut. Leave, and myself, met 
frequently to discuss the details of this project. 

We had surveyed the river's banks, and discovered 
a large boat belonging to the plantation of which I 
have already spoken, and had half determined to 
seize it at night and run down with the stream of 
the Guarapiche into the Gulf of Paria, and thus at- 
tempt to reach Trinidad. On inquiry, we found the 
stream to be of tortuous and difficult navigation ; and 
a young Canadian trader, with whom we had formed 
an acquaintance and had intrusted with our scheme, 
dissuaded us from attempting it. 

He, however, volunteered to furnish us with dis- 
guises, and to take us in his own boat. Upon this 



ESCAPE ABANDONED. 113 

Stratagem we were hopefuUy relying, when our new 
ally was seized with fever, and our expectations of 
escape were thus annihilated. Meanwhile, the hos« 
pitals became more and more crowded, and conster- 
nation darkened every countenance. 



VOL. II. 



114 



CHAP. XL 
UKAXH ov cwnfBAT. iseusML — nrrsoDrcTioK to masixo, — 

LMATK TO GO TO JlSGOeTUBA. — DEPARTUBE FROM MATUSIK. 

THE WILDESKE88. AXOtAL, LIFE, AXD KATTSAL DIFFICULTIES- 

— THE OSnrOOO. BARAKCAjB. the BRITISH FLAG. H ATIOKAL 

KHTHUBIASli; AXD ITS FOETIC RESULT. 

At this epoch a courier brought the periodical letters 
and despatches ; and amongst other intelligence we 
learned the arnTal, at Margarita, of General Deve* 
reux's L^on^ the dearth of provisions in that island 
almost amounting to famine^ the consequent pre* 
valence of sickness and fever^ and, amongst other 
casualties^ the death of General English. After the 
failure of the attack upon Cumana, that man had 
abandoned the British Legion^ and had retired to 
Margarita, where he lingered with the hope of 
receiving from the republican government the re- 
ward of his treachery to us. It was well for him 
that he had not accompanied us through our moun- 
tain march; for so infuriated had the men become 
against him, that he would probably have been 
sacrificed to their rage. 

I was slumbering in my hammock, when I was 
suddenly startled by vociferous cheers, repeated again 



GENERAL MABINO. 115 

and again; and rnnning to ascertain the cause^ I 
found that the news of the death of English had 
spread like wildfire ; and^ on hearing it, the men 
had simultaneously rushed out, and one universal 
burst of triumph proclaimed their savage joy. 

General Marino, the newly appointed chief, ar- 
rived at Maturin with his staff, and his appearance 
and deportment contrasted favourably with the cold 
reserve of his predecessor. Marino visited the hos- 
pitals ; and when he saw the sufferings around him, 
he wept aloud. Such a trait, in our circumstances, 
endeared the man, and he became at once popular. 
He wrote instantly for a proper supply of medicines ; 
and, I believe, felt all the reproach attachable to a 
government that surrendered its followers to so cruel 
an extremity. 

AH the officers paid their personal respects to the 
newly invested chief, and I had the good fortune to 
be one of the earliest. Nothing could be more 
courteous and urbane than his reception; and I 
beheld in him a man of the European school. He 
was a stout fair-haired man, of winning countenance 
and gentle manners, and his address and conversation 
stole imperceptibly upon all who approached him. 

I ventured to express my desire to secede from 
the service, and to return to my own country ; and 
without a moment's hesitation, he signified his as- 

I 2 



118 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

across^ and landing on the opposite bank would 
quietly browse, and await the coming of their 
masters. I was particularly struck by the numbers 
and the size of birds, winging their flight and 
perching upon widely scattered trees. The small 
lakes we encountered were invariably adorned by 
beautiful flamingoes, which desisted timidly on our 
approach from their search after fish, while their 
bright and variegated plumage fully justified the 
native designation of "soldados," or soldier birds. 
The parrots and paroquets were so numerous, that 
they quite exceeded the commonest birds in European 
countries. The swiftness of their flight, and the 
quiet tenacity with which they moved amongst the 
branches of trees, impressed us with their wild 
natural qualities on the one hand, and tlieir cha* 
racteristic sluggishness when perching or encaged. 

Occasionally we would journey through rank 
grass, and there disturb herds of wild deer, whose 
elastic bounds both startled and amused us. In 
dense jungle we heard fearful cries from beasts of 
prey, and at rare intervals discerned a stray tiger. 
The mules instinctively exhibited extreme alarm at 
their vicinity ; and Colonel Sucre, who had traversed 
the length and breadth of savage districts, divined by 
the excitement of our animals their contiguity to 
their natural foes. . 



THE PLAINS. 119 

One afternoon we pnrsaed the beaten track and 
were rounding a thick wood, when the sadden agita- 
tion of our mules forewarned us of some unusual 
presence. " Tigre ! ^ exclaimed one of our Samboes ; 
and within a dozen paces of us stood an immense 
tiger, whose eyes appeared to survey me with earnest 
ferocity. Happily he was goiged to the full, and, 
sluggishly turning round, stalked into the jungle, 
and with quiet step dived into its recesses. We 
were well-satisfied to be rid of his company, and 
resumed our route without the least desire to inter- 
cept him. 

Amongst other incidents^ we one day discerned at 
a distance rapidly approaching flames, and found the 
plains before us to be on fire. This, I was informed, 
was no unusual occurrence. Careless travellers 
would ignite the dried grass ; and in that event, if a 
breeze prevailed, miles of this withered herbage 
would shortly be consumed, and the fiery devastation 
progress without probable limit. My companion 
directed my course, and at his bidding we spurred 
our mules, and dashed through a merely superficial 
conflagration; for, owing to the eternal heat and 
parched nature of the soil, the grass was dry and 
scant. 

In short, all kinds of comfortless obstructions inter- 
vened ; but nevertheless I was greatly interested by 

I 4 



120 PEACEj WAB^ AJSTD ADYENTUBE. 

the natural phenomena of these tropical wilds. I 
have no hesitation in saying that the crowning 
danger of such journeys is the passage of deep and 
rapd riyersy unaided by boats or bridges. They 
swarm with alligators, electric eels, and a small flat 
fish called the ^^caribe." This latter has a circular 
mouthy no larger than a sixpence, beset with the 
aharpeet teeth. His dart is unerring, and the ex- 
euuon complete; the bite, moreorer, is always suc- 
oeeded by seTere irritation, and is with difficulty 
healed. ^ 

On one day of our march, after travelling for 
hours we arrived at the banks of the Morescao 
Laigo, a river wide, deep, and of the clearest water. 
Here we found an old Sambo, who occupied a 
cottage and garden on its banks, and, moreover, 
owned a boat used to transport travellers across the 
river, from which idd he derived a trifling revenue. 
So numerous were the mosquitoes and other tor- 
mentors, that the natives most appropriately named 
this spot ^^ La Madre de la Plaga." 

While all were busily employed in disburthening 
the mules and consigning their loads to the boat, I 
was looking wistfully at the delicious stream, and 
suddenly determined to plunge in and swim across ; 
and without further hesitation I stripped, and putting 
my clothes unobserved amidst the general occu- 



j»^f^x iiLWsdT jiar* au 

fgA Tii*- 2ZX. 



cr^ c£ ttj^ -rja 






old bcianxac. • iaes 

back It xufizucrv ic lue lilttnefSft Ijhts.^ kx 

oftexi do I maubk s: tat iierL c u- 

ever. I T«auec iixturt txaiam. irtm: Xuk-, mu^tnijur^ 

irhoBfr fiiuL wjtt umnMr timz fsiMu; «a vj^^- .^- 
pomxifnii Witt ua^uHhsl uii e4Mfr&.<^a.- jm -, ^. 

bciKL mid wt wert l^trrtv. fj\t' o- a: it^<- Mi^r^^- 
Id tkifc Con J firtt aar W tLt^^u^i.- *^' ;^,^ ,^^ 
in MxipUibioufc luiwia: wiiicj hiiuuaiu .: x^ , ..*,^,. 



122 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

vegetable products of freshwater streams, is esteemed 
by the natives nutritious food. Five^ of those 
animals allowed me to approach within a few yards 
of them, and then dived and disappeared. To my 
eye they rather resembled the sheep than the hog, 
and were of that size. 

Continuing our route across these plains, we 
reached the Orinoco river, at the hamlet of Barancas, 
the first station from the mouth occupied by a trading 
community. It was evening as we approached this 
mighty stream; and the moon being up and tinging 
its surface with brightness, I saw at once there were 
good grounds for the exultation with which the 
natives described its magnificence. 

Barancas was of inconsiderable extent ; but its in- 
habitants having frequent intercourse with traders 
from Trinidad, possessed comfortable furniture, and 
domestic appliances to which my eye had long been 
a stranger. There we passed the night, and the 
following day quitted our mules, and embarked 
on board a Venezuelan schooner, bound for An- 
gostura, which had alternately to sail and warp- 
up against an opposing current ; and by this tedious 
process, after many days, reached its destination. 

In our journey across the plains, we had been at- 
tended by two Samboes, or native Llaneros, whose 
untiring activity caused me great surprise. They 



PATRIOTIC ENTHUSIASM. 123 

drove our sumpter mules^ walked the whole dis- 
tance, disburthened the animals, swam the rivers 
with loads upon their heads, and at the halting-hour 
would seek for fuel, and light fires, and cook, without 
the remotest symptom of fatigue. Such are the 
fruits of daily habitual toil. 

At Barancas I experienced the full import of 
national enthusiasm, and my heart gave vent to all 
its pent-up emotions of patriotism. My first idea, on 
rising in the morning, was to see by broad daylight 
the river of which I had heard such magniloquent 
reports, and consequently I lost no time in seeking 
its banks, and there I beheld that glorious fleuve 
coursing with quiet celerity to the ocean. The 
extent, the current, and the circumjacent forest, to- 
gether with the distant mountains dimly seen, im- 
pressed me by the tout ensemble of their wild imagery. 
Two small schooners lay at anchor in a sort of quiet 
bay, which had marked Barancas for a first entrepdt 
for trading purposes. 

The sun streamed its full flood of lustre on the 
scene, when I beheld the British flag suddenly run 
up, and floating from the gaff of one of these 
schooners, thus attesting the nation of that tiny craft. 
My heart beat tumultuously, and an ecstasy of delight 
and pride thrilled through my frame. I gazed, and 
weptf nay, almost sobbed, at the sight of that cherished 



114 TE^CE^ ^^J^ ^^n> AJyTTSTTRE, 

tam^i^ A:1 odber ci^ects became to me indistinct 

waA I at me down, and sank into a 
^eaamg mmd faanffoL Mj own dear 
w^A I appeared to hare been so long 



•m^' ! lM.I^ |iWllf* - 



tutot^ iyHTHiiim^ and I mroked ereiy tenn that 
TiHiidHC ii> dgmwr mnr cxlaiBdes feihr. and devotion 



Jx. ^K jitiiirniBJi flf Br excitement I took out my 
jenaL amS. idBaifced tnr <me c ng ro afiin g sentiment, I 
cmupwii ^1^ filbvi^ rimas. At kast twenty- 
fc^psBsi^dizyfisaifMazed in print in a perio- 
Seai if doe Ait. wiE& a pnefix of the dicamstances 
ip^ndi £!sve ise lo ^besr eamfoaaon, and they have 
SDX izacoi 'Asar ^tinr bito cdier perio£cals. I give 
V'v^trT. i^s^ 3s xn egicTBrifm of imdcabted ancerity. 

FT- Gz ?2h:^i:s CEOS&. — the heteor flag of 

EXGLAXD. 



TImr:: S»T.T-nym»^ ^TTe ofaiuc^scx. litK pcwidlT brsTes the breeze ! 

Tb:^ reril taxiisr ! iMS jjcc* lirv^ji aiU diseoTer'd seas. 

As fErrcT^-j^Tfiswii str,^s riat lo iaii iIit Horioas wjit, 

So 5w^ ti>f JTcrrt* -ct liie rsnr^ wbo ccctemplite thy swav. 

Fcr bosizril'es? r>»J3=^ il:=«m qTSiH beneath portentous agns of loss» 

TVlKiEae'^r wha bc^dl-e purpose flotus Su George's gallant Cross. 

Blest streamer of mj natire land ! with what ecstatic pride 
I see thr soaring emblems h^ surmoiint this rushing tide. 
For, oh ! beneath the baneful shade of alien banners led, 
Mj drooping heart, mj unnn^ed arm, confess their prowess fled. 
Mj dull and hearj eje, which scenes of woe alone engross, 
Still kindles at thj magic charm, mj mighty country's Cross. 



ST. George's cross. 125 

From tby ascendant rule afar, here ]^ature wildly reigns, 
While sanguined streams of battle rise and deluge trackless plains. 
IVe seen the motley cohorts trained where star-deck*d banners flew, 
And coldly yiew*d the standard wave that urged the sable crew. 
For all their country*s richest gems could ne*er their stars emboss. 
With half thy lustrous wreaUis of fame, my hallowed country*s 
Cross. 

The foemen of Iberians tower its bases undermine I 
Fell treason sear*d the Drapeau Blanc, and bade its lilies pine. 
Beyond the bounds for mortal flight would Gallia*s eagle soar ; 
His stricken pinions droopM, and lo I his atrial course was o*er. 
*Mid these convulsions, firm and free, thy trophies still engross 
The changeless homage of the world, my hallowed country*s Cross. 

While yonder broad and glowing disc illumines these cloudless 

skies. 
May moral splendour gild the land o*er which thy pendant flies I 
May Peace and Hope concurrent throw their genial mantles o*er, 
And Freedom's bristling panoply warn despots from her shore I 
And fired by undivided love, on high may Britons toss 
Their joyful hands, and shout acclaim, " God save St. George's 

Cross I" 



126 



CHAP. xn. 

EXBABKED ON THE ORINOCO. — A TBEE BEARING STRANGE FRUIT. 

THE TOWN OF GUYANA. ANGOSTURA. INTERDICTION TO QUIT 

THE COUNTRY. — UNUSUAL HOSPITALITY. SEIZED WITH YELLOW 

FETER. — A MEDICAL SAMARITAN. RECOVERY. POSSESSION OF 

A PASSPORT. — ARRIVAL OF BOLIVAR — HIS RECEPTION. DIS- 
MISSAL OF ARISMENDL ENTERTAINMENT TO BOLIVAR. A CHAL- 
LENGE, AND A DILEMMA. — AN EXPEDITION. — APPOINTMENT TO 

THE STAFF, AND PROMOTION. THE HONOUR DECLINED. A 

PASSAGE SECURED. 

For official purposes Colonel Sucr^ had brought me 
by a circuitous route, and thus I had the advan- 
tage to traverse an extended range of country. How- 
ever, we embarked at Barancas in a neat schooner, 
and found on board two young married women of re- 
spectable condition, and other persons, whose liyely 
conversation beguiled this otherwise tedious passage. 

In ascending the river, the dangers to its navi- 
gation were numerous ; it was consequently the 
custom to seek out at evening a secure spot, and 
there make fast the vessel for the night, most gene- 
rally by passing hawsers round some gigantic tree. 

Such was the case on our first day's embarkation ; 
and as the cabin was intolerable, owing to the flights 
of mosquitoes which infested it (and those of the 



VITAL FRUIT. 127 

Orinoco are unusually famed for the length of their 
fangs, and the venom of their sting), I determined to 
pass the night on deck, and for my couch selected a 
hen-coop. I needed no covering, merely putting a 
handkerchief over my face, and thrusting my hands 
into my pockets to shield them from our restless tor- 
mentors. My bed, none of the softest, did not en- 
courage prolonged sleep, and I awoke very early in 
the morning. 

As day faintly began to dawn, my attention was 
attracted to the tree to which our craft was made fast, 
and the more I watched it, the more it appeared to 
me, to be loaded with fruit of a red colour. My 
curiosity became intensely excited, and I continued 
to gaze with increased surprise at the size of the 
fruit with which the tree appeared to be surcharged, 
when of a sudden the problem was solved, for a large 
flight of red macaws took wing and quickly disap- 
peared. 

God knows at what hour of the evening they had 
sought that roosting-place, but there they had passed 
the night, to puzzle me by vain surmises at early 
mom. Of course, such an incident was not devoid of 
interest. It, like every thing else I had seen, differed 
so essentially from facts and features observable in 
Europe, that the strangeness and originality pos- 
sessed a more than passing charm for the traveller. 



128 PEACE, WAE, AND ADVENTURE. 

We touched at Old Guyana, where a capricious 
bend of the channel compelled every vessel designing 
to pass, to sail within easy reach of the guns of a fort 
which, commanding the passage, afforded adequate 
protection to the navigation of the river for all the 
purposes of the republic, and was equal to repel an 
invading squadron. The town was precisely of the 
rat-harbouring character with that of Maturin. The 
yellow fever raged extensively throughout this por- 
tion of Guyana, and the cadaverous beings who 
stalked abroad, attested its malign influence. 

I looked with unusual interest upon this fortress, 
because we had been threatened at Maturin with its 
duresse, and there Colonel Wilson, an English oflScer 
who had offended the authorities, had been long con- 
fined a prisoner. 

On our passage upwards some circumstances ne- 
cessitated temporary repose, and the vessel was made 
fast, as usual, to the bank. During the interval of 
rest, a shooting excursion was proposed and adopted, 
and some half dozen of us were armed with muskets 
from the schooner for that purpose. We landed 
upon the usual tangled ground that skirts a tropical 
river, and, for better sport, agreed to separate and 
individually to seek for it. Ere long I found my 
course completely obstructed by the rank prevalence 
of shrubs and brambles, and under a scorchinir sun I 



CITY OF ANGOSTUBA. 129 

toiled and struggled only to become more fearfully 
entangled. I appeared to be in the very hot-bed of 
snakes and alligators^ and at length became stricken 
with alarm^ and determined to beat a retreat. I 
found this no easy task ; but at length, after being 
seriously scorched and torn, I did succeed in regain- 
ing the water's side, where I was soon joined by my 
brother sportsmen, all of whom had experienced the 
like obstacles. We were glad to return on board, 
not much enamoured with, or inclined to renew a 
shooting excursion on, the banks of the Orinoco. 

We duly reached Angostura, and I was not a little 
struck with the river frontage of this neat, but se<* 
eluded town. A handsome line of white residences 
constituted a terrace of inviting pretensions; such, 
indeed, as would not have discredited a favoured 
English watering-place. Most of the houses pos* 
sessed balconies opening from the principal saloon by 
folding casements, and some were shaded by veran-* 
das. A neat foot-pavement, and a spacious carriage* 
road divided the houses from the river, which was 
here broad, of scarcely fathomable depth, and rapid 
in its course. The city contsdned a small plaziEi, with 
a good church, and the hall of Congress, together 
with some government offices. The town could 
boast of a hospital ; and, although not extensive, was 
throughout of picturesque appearance. 

VOL. n. K 



130 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

The surrounding country had its attractions ; but 
was partially and imperfectly cultivated, owing to 
the uncertain tenure of its occupants, and the free 
use made by the government, without payment, of 
any part of the produce, for casual public purposes. 
The population was then estimated at 6000 souls, of 
all colours, and extraction. Across the river, imme- 
diately opposite to Angostura, was a hamlet called 
Solidad, to which many of the inhabitants of the 
city resorted as to country residences. The cottages 
were, however, of the rudest description, and the 
vicinity flat and sterile. Yet the half-hourly passage 
of a ferry-boat to Solidad, announced by blowing the 
conch, was in general the only thing indicative of 
life and movement. 

On landing, I waited upon General Arismendi, 
whom I found, as I have previously described, Vice- 
President of the state. He recognised me as one 
of his late supervisors at Margarita, extended his 
hand, and was quite affable until I disclosed my 
desire to quit the service, and to return to England. 
Then, indeed, his countenance became clouded, and 
he extinguished my hopes by a stern refusal. Aris- 
mendi condescended to inform me that I must ** no 
longer consider myself as English, but Venezuelan,'' 
and that I must prepare to join in the conquest of 
Caraccas. 



LUXURY OF BHOBT DURATION. 131 

My next step was to present letters of introduction 
from Colonels Stopford and Woodberry, to Mr. Ha- 
milton^ then the most influential and respected 
British merchant in the Patriot territory. He occu- 
pied one of the best houses in front of the river^ and 
lived in a style of elegance quite new to my expe- 
rience in those regions. He kindly offered me a 
room in his house and a seat at his table, and by this 
unlooked-for hospitality I was suddenly transferred 
to the luxury of generous diet, with no stint of ex- 
cellent Madeira wine, all tending to give a comforting 
impulse to my spirits. 

Alas I I was not long destined to enjoy this change 
of condition. Bolivar had succeeded in his expedi- 
tion against New Granada, and had captured Santa 
F^ de Bogota, where he possesssed himself of the 
enemy's treasure in that capital. 

Within a few days of my arrival at Angostura, 
there arrived a special messenger from that chief, 
bearing money to be expended in the purchase of 
arms at some British colony, and Mr. Hamilton 
(securely trusted by Bolivar) was urgently requested 
to execute that delicate mission. He consequently 
quitted Angostura, and I was again consigned to my 
own resources. 

There resided in this remote city a medical man 
named Kirby, a civilian, who practised amongst the 

K 2 



132 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

foreign merchants, and the crews of foreign vessels. 
He had gained some celebrity by the treatment of 
ague, a prevalent disorder, and was enabled to live 
in superior style, to the envy and disgust of the mili- 
tary surgeons. He was married, and with his wife, 
a native of Cambridgeshire, inhabited a spacious 
house contiguous to the river, where they kept 
riding mules, and had a plentiful stock of poultry 
and other substantial comforts. 

Providentially I formed an acquaintance with that 
gentleman, a circumstance to which, under Heaven, 
I owed the preservation of my life. He was hos- 
pitable, and deemed it necessary occasionally to 
launch out into a costly entertainment, and just about 
that period Colonel Stopford (who had recently 
arrived from Maturin) and myself joined a numerous 
circle of Dr. Kirby's friends, at a supper of more than 
ordinary pretensions. Thence it was (as I conceive) 
that his regard for me warmed into friendship. 

I was residing with two British officers on leavd 
from the army of the Apure, when I was suddenly 
seized with the yellow fever. I had ere then been 
greatly reduced by dysentery, and my frame was ex- 
hibiting in various ways the inroads wrought by 
recent fatigues and privation. 

When, however, I was assailed by that fearful 
scourge the marsh or yellow fever, my consignment 



THE YELLOW FEVER. l33 

to the native hospital seemed to be the last alternative^ 
and my companions had made arrangements (the only 
step in their power) for my removal to that place of 
reputed neglect and misery, on the following morning. 

Happily for me Dr. Kirby learned my condition, 
and without a moment's delay he hired two black 
labourers, and taking with him a capacious hammock^ 
hastened to my quarters and had me carried in* 
Btanter to his own residence, where his unwearied 
skill and attention hardly availed to save my life. 
Indeed, at one moment he prepared his wife for my 
death, and assigned me five minutes to live. 

By the blessing of Providence I survived, but it 
was long before I could stand or walk. In the pro- 
gress of my convalescence I dwelt day and night 
upon England, and as soon as I could crawl I crept 
to the house of the Vice-President, where my spectral 
appearance so softened or alarmed Arismendi, that 
with almost impatient despatch he handed me a pass- 
port, to enable me to quit that country and service. 

The possession of that blessed authority lent vigour 
to my mind, and my daUy improvement in health 
became marvellous. I was making anxious inquiries 
for some vessel bound to an English colony (where, 
by the way, my prospect must have been of dire 
uncertainty), when, one morning early, the city was 
electrified by the arrival of an avant courier, bearing 

K 3 



134 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

the intelligence that Bolivar would be at Angostura 
within a few hours. 

The excitement was prodigious, and the conster- 
nation of Arismendi and his satellites proportionate. 
The celerity of the Supreme Chiefs movements took 
them by surprise. No one imagined that he could 
yet have reached the Apure. Bolivar was, however, 
a man of indomitable activity ; and in this instance, 
his disquietude at the successful maneuvres of Aris- 
mendi and Marino had lent wings to his accustomed 
speed, and he outstripped all anticipation. 

Cannon were quickly run down to the point of 
landing, every vessel in the river hoisted its brightest 
flags, the men hastened to attire themselves in their 
gayest costume, ladies thronged the windows and 
balconies, and before noon the Supreme Chief stepped 
from his boat amidst an enthusiastic burst of wel- 
come. 

I was particularly anxious to watch the deport- 
ment of Arismendi, and was near enough to mark 
his hypocritical reception of Bolivar. He advanced 
in full dress, tendered the embrace so common in 
Southern countries, and pressed his head with well- 
feigned devotion against the shoulder of the Chief, 
upon whom he smiled with arch-dissimulation. 

All this mockery, however, was of short duration. 
Bolivar that very day repaired to the Congress, ad- 



BOLIVAR. — ABBllYAL AND RECEPTION. 135 

dressed an obsequious, and now confiding body, and 
Arismendi's temporary authority soon ceased to exist. 

It was really instructive to scan the features of 
that fallen chief. Every bad passion traced its re- 
flection in his countenance. He was, however, too 
treacherous and wily to enlist the sympathy of any 
one person, and his overthrow produced universal 
satisfaction. Before dismissing his name from my 
narrative let me in justice avow, that had the 
British Legion been led from Margarita by a man of 
Arismendi's well-known courage and daring, the 
consequences to the republican cause would in all 
probability have been important. 

The following day the President held a lev6e, 
which was crowded. I accompanied Colonel Stop- 
ford to it, and we certainly left the saloon with an 
unfavourable impression of the ChieTs demeanour 
and address. Indeed, so great was the ^colonel's 
disappointment that, as we went out he exclaimed, 
" Is this the great Bolivar ? " 

The British and American merchants met, and 
discussed the details of a dinner to be given to 
Bolivar, with a ball in the evening to the ladies of 
Angostura. The proposition was hailed with ac- 
clamation, and the only subject of contention was 
the guests to be invited. When Dr. Eorby's name 
was mentioned, up rose a Dr. Boberton and de* 

K 4 



136 PEACE, WAR, ANB ABVENTURE. 

Bounced it. The proposal to invite me passed without 
a single dissentient; but professional jealousy suC'- 
ceeded in excluding Kirby, who, resenting the asper- 
sions cast upon his character, resolved to send a 
hostile message to his medical detractor, and I was 
the bearer of the challenge. A refusal to meet Kirby 
was supported by a series of forced reasoning, founded 
upon some idle rumours ; but a willingness to meet 
me as his friend was savingly pronounced. 

To that extraordinary course I naturally demurred; 
and as a notion prevailed in some quarters that I was 
bound by the laws of duelling to maintain, at the 
risk of my life, the honour of my friend, I solicited 
the advice of two field officers (late of British cavalry 
regiments), and they decided that no such obligation 
attached to me. Kirby, they ruled, had amply 
vindicated his own character, and his opponent should 
be left to justify his equivocal conduct. Their de- 
cision proved final, and I was relieved from a peril- 
ous dilemma. 

The Supreme Chief accepted the invitation of the 
merchants, and a sumptuous banquet was provided* 
The entertainment throughout was of the true 
British character; toasts were proposed, speeches 
delivered, and songs intervened. I was importuned 
to sing the Legion Anthem; and those who were 
ignorant of the English language (Bolivar amongst 



A DINNER AND BALL. 137 

the number) applauded^ because they were informed 
that the sentiment was eulogistic of their cause and 
country. 

When " the toast of the evening " was proposed 
from the chair^ the plaudits became long and loud ; 
and in the plenitude of enthusiasm^ up sprung three 
or four Venezuelan patriots, and seizing Bolivar, 
they bore him on a seat of entwining hands around 
the board, amidst vociferous vivas. When he was 
again deposited in his place at the table, he returned 
thanks in earnest and eloquent terms, and lavished 
unbounded thanks upon his foreign friends. 

The tables were in due time removed, and the 
room prepared for the balL Good music had been 
provided, and the ladies, numerous and tastefully 
attired, showed the universal zest for dancing. The 
fete was altogether well ordered and success^, and 
Bolivar was the partner whom all covetted. He 
was gay and indefatigable; and as his name and 
deeds had extended through the world, he was 
watched by eyes of wondering admiration, and was 
pronounced to be an elegant dancer ; and so indeed 
he was. 

My enfeebled frame was inadequate to sustain ex- 
citement, and the consequence was a severe attack of 
ague. My suffering and prostration were extreme, 
and I became a living skeleton. I despaired of seeing 



138 FEACE^ WAB, AND ADYENTUBE. 

my native country again^ espedally as I had looked 
about in vain for a vessel to bear me to the colonies. 

At this time an expedition had been planned by 
Bolivar agidnst Santa Martha on the coast, and 
Gbeneral Montilla (late the chief of the staff under 
General IJrdaneta) was appointed to the command. 
He was ordered to sail to Margarita, there to embark 
the remnant of General Devereux's Legion, princi- 
pally enlisted in Ireland, and to pursue a line of 
operations upon wluch he was instructed. 

What was my astonishment when one day, during 
a walk in quest of ur and exercise, I was accosted by 
a full-bearded Venezuelan soldier, who presented me 
with an orderly-book, in which my name was in- 
scribed as one of the staff of General Montilla, to 
accompany the designed expedition. 

In a state of alarm I waited on Bolivar, and im« 
plored his forbearance. I produced my passport from 
General Arismendi, pleaded my shattered health, and 
prayed that I might be allowed to quit the service. 
He was manifestly displeased at my importunity ; 
but signified, in ungracious terms, that the choice 
rested with myself. My election was pronounced 
without a moment's wavering, and he haughtily 
replied, " WeD, Sir, you may go to England." 

I met Montilla that very day, and explained to 
him my utter inability to endure the campaigns of 



PBOMOTIOK REJECTED. 139 

such a country. He urged me to reconsider mj 
determination, spoke favourably of the climate to 
which he was bound, and frankly avowed that my 
knowledge of the Spanish language made him anxious 
to secure my services. He, moreover, informed me 
that he was authorised by Bolivar, to offer me the 
rank of Lieutenant-Colonel on the Sta£^ and promised 
that my name should appear in tp-morrow's orders 
with that recognised advancement. It did so appear ; 
but having become impressed with the doom which 
threatened any further toil in those re^ons, I resisted 
the lure, and persisted in quitting the coimtry. 

I announced my final decision to Bolivar, who on 
that occasion was more gentle and considerate, and 
presented me with an order on the treasury for forty 
dollars, which was duly honoured. All this time I 
had resided with my good friends the Eorbys, and 
failed Bot to consult them throughout these per- 
plexing occurrences. 

Colonel Stopford had been despatched from Ma- 
turin to Angostura, in order to extort, by argument 
and protest, some recognition from the government 
of the claims of their British supporters, and to en- 
deavour to insure for them more encouraging treat- 
ment. I aided him by the translation of papers, and 
by occasional viva voce interpretations. Without 
entering into needless detdls, it may merely be ob- 



\4^ t^jlCE^ wjlb, asd adventure. 

servd, tli^t eqxdvocttion mod indifference to our 
rcpresentarions stamped the conduct of the govern- 
ment iuDcdonaiies of tluit day, and no satisfactory 
settlement was to my knowledge effected. 

I also acted as interpreter with Greneral Bolivar 
for my finend Dr. Blrby, who was in treaty for a 
high medical appointment ; and such were the prin- 
ciples enunciated that, had they been frankly pro- 
mulgated in Europe, not a man would have been so 
besotted as to espouse a cause divested of every 
inducement. 

In their public speeches we were extravagantly 
lauded by the Patriot leaders, while the thanks of 
Congress were voted to us for the campaigns of 
Barcelona and Cumana, and we were honoured with 
the designation of " Libertadores." As no medallion 
or decoration accompanied the distinction, it was 
received with cold indifference. 

At Angostura I became intimate with a Captain 
Vowel of the Columbian army ; an Englishman of 
amiable but thoughtless disposition, whose strange 
career has been rarely paralleled. 

He was an under-graduate of one of the univer- 
sities, at the moment when the death of a relative 
put into his own possession 2000Z. Absolute master 
of that sum, he relinquished his studies, quitted the 
university, and, infected by a prevailing mania, re- 



CAPTAUr TOWEL. ^ RASE Al>V£JI'f l£Z. I4l 

solved to bear anns for tlie emaacipatioa of Tene-* 
zuela. After expending 20(ML in an oatSty he enir* 
barked with the poaeesraon of 18002* 

Such a capital in such a r^iosi would haTe eoaf-> 
stituted him a wealthy man; bat alaal Towel waa 
improvident and indiacriminatelj generoaa, and cosw 
sequentlj lent so mnch to certain casoal friends^ 
and absolutely gave so much to othefs, tha^ when I 
met him in Angostura (after only two yeaza of ser* 
vice in South America), he had been deapoOed at all 
his gold^ and possessed only his own good sword to 
fight his way once more to fortune; if, in fucfa z 
country^ there could be found a road leading to that 
goal. 

That Vowel was a man of roboft frame may 
be inferred from the ensuing temsakMe fr/riirm of 
his history: — While operating with a body of mi* 
tives on the plains of the Apure, the party was otm 
evening seated after a fiitignii^ mmhf in a natitral 
hollow having, as he described it, the appigafan^ of z 
gravel pit, and foirmii^ a ctd de sae; Tb^ were 
quietly regaling themselves, when a large Ui^Jy of 
Spanish cavalry suddenly rushed in upon them, and 
speedily, to all appearance, sabred every souL 

Vowel alone remained unscathed A hasty pre* 
sence of mind tended to preserve bis life# He lay 
outstretched and motionless, and simulated the 



g j pJtf rf ieadt^ and Ae Sponida^ haTii^ de- 
ifBfidKd all is. wiaD& anj gwaTaing Efe was dia- 
crrwMpj tbcswed by tfaifc artifie^ left lum unhmt. 
He fay —iiiib'^ bii iliBgyhrumi eoBpanioDS afraid to 

of erenii^ gakYe 



htad, whem he peroOTed the 
«£ fas fate eoiKades. and fcHuid that 




of carnage, he fonnd 
a deaofate wQdemess. 
of any accessible 
gvided aoUy by the hope 
1%^^ £iect Us footsteps. 
day after day amoi^st these inex- 
iiif' j li i f v4isy fi n'lfag OB roots and berries, and re- 
poa^ by u^b npoa soeae ^oat txee as the best 
pnxeeocm a^am«t beasts of prey. 

For nro wfaJe mocths £d this poor young man 
exhaust all his patioice and fortitude in Tain, to ex- 
tikaUe hinsself from so mis^able a condition. His 
appeanuftce became that of a wild man, and at lengthy 
spirit-broken, he gave himself up to despair, and lay 
down resolved, if possible, to die. At that identical 
moment he was suddenly aroused by the presence of 
a Llanero, whose astonishment was equal to poor 
Vowel's thankfulness. He was, in fact, then near a 



HAPPY DISENTANGLEMENT. 143 

hamlet^ and not far distant from a native force com- . 
manded by Bolivar in person. 

After a short rest and some refreshment, he was 
conducted by his guide into Bolivar's presence ; and 
no sooner did the Chief behold him, scan him with 
surprise from head to foot, and hear of his strange 
adventures, than he invoked the Deity, the Virgin, 
and the whole string of saints so familiar to the lips 
of the Spaniards and their descendants, when they 
seek to give vent to some overwhelming emotion. 

Vowel's miraculous escape was well known at 
Angostura, and is of undoubted authenticity. I 
have often listened to the recital of his erratic toils 
and providential extrication, and I narrate the story 
with the firmest conviction in my own mind of its 
truthfulness. I left Captain Vowel behind me at 
Angostura, again under orders for the Apure ; but 
of his after-fate I am quite ignorant. Alas I I fear 
for him, as for countless other volunteers in that 
dread contest. The climate and privation effected 
infinitely greater ruin than the sword. 

The more I heard and saw, the better satisfied I 
became with my resolution to quit the service. 

By dint of observation and inquiry T learned, that 

* a Danish polacre was shipping a cargo of cattle for 

Barbadoes ; and I lost no time in addressing myself to 



144 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

the captain, who was an Englishman of kind dispo« 
sition. A short parley brought us to terms, and he 
agreed to receive me on board for the voyage, and 
in due course I embarked and sailed, at a time when 
Bolivar was exercising all the influence of his name 
at the seat of government, for a demonstration 
against the Boyalists upon an extended scale. 



145 



CHAP, xin, 

MEMOIR OF GEITEHAL BOLIYAS. — PATRIOT CHIEFS. — A CREOLE 
FORCE. — THE PEOPLE, AND THE WOMEN OF THE COUNTRY. 

Few histories present a more remarkable combina- 
tion of sacrifice, toil, success, and reverse than that 
of General Simon Bolivar. His life was one of 
ceaseless struggle, and his death the consummation 
of all that mental agony could inflict. He was bom 
in the year 1783, in the province of Caraccas (where 
he succeeded to a fine patrimonial estate), and at an 
early age he was sent to Madrid to complete his edu- 
cation. Thence he travelled extensively in Europe^ 
resided for some time in Paris, and was present at 
the coronation of Napoleon. 

He married a lady connected with the noble family 
of Toro, and conducted her to his estate in the pro-* 
vince of Caraccas, where she fell a sacrifice to yellow 
fever, after a very short residence in Venezuela. 
After a second visit to Europe and a visit to tho 
United States, he returned to his patrimony at San 
Mateo (according to the common report of the 
country) with an ardent passion for gaming, in which 
he largely indulged. Indeed, his house was said to 

VOL. II. L 



.jA rs^:^ ^ 



^ ^ ' 












•»^IU«t^//hufe(«etiilau%r <ir ':^f ane&f^cKiaB. 

Tik ^JU^&d t jrasssT </ t&e sKiclKr c mintr i was 
b(]«wif/ nfi0M0A \fj d^ vfeile oatiTe popokdoo. Tbe 
fi0^M% |/Ji^ ^>f SfMtta \uA led her to support eroj 
lt#Ir»;{ ti^t iTM res^rktire and oppressiye to her 
/'//Iz/fHAl nnl^^^,, with the ondisgubed object to ad- 
r*ri/;^; h/?f //wri ex/::lfiAive interest*. The wrongs con- 
le^'/jMently infliArted on the c/Joniats were innumerable ; 
f/Mt f have hrijard intelligent South Americans prefer 
ifie follz/wirig njfficifia charges : — First, the exclusion 
#/f nativ^'.M frrmi all official employment ; — Secondly, 
ili« prohibition to foreigners to penetrate into the 
provifuufM or tr) cultivate commercial relations with 
Uin InlmbitftriiH, thu« crippling the commerce of the 
floiinf ry, whicJi tluj Hpfuiianls designed to monopolize ; 

Thlnlly, iho noglcct to construct roads or bridges, or 



OUTBREAK OF THE REVOLUTION. 147 

to further the prosperity, of the inland population. 
— and, Fourthly, the selfish interdiction against the 
growth of the vine and olive, in order to favour ex- 
clusively the wines and oil produced in the mother 
country. 

This last prohibition appeared to me to have been 
more acutely felt than most others, because the soil 
was affirmed to be singularly adapted to the culture 
of the grape at least. In short, every fiscal regulation 
was enforced, tending to elevate Spain, and to de- 
grade her colonial subjects. 

The Spanish public functionaries were affirmed to 
have been corrupt and extortionate; justice had 
become a mockery, since the highest bidder could 
insure its decisions ; and every part of the continent 
subject to Spanish domination, groaned under the 
crudest exactions ; — ^in short, an unmitigated tyranny 
prevailed. 

Maunday Thursday, a high religious festival, had 
been selected for the deposition of the Royalists ; and 
may be said to have been the first serious outburst of 
the revolution. The day was well chosen ; because 
the Captain- General, the officers of state, and the 
military thronged the churches of Caraccas, to assist 
in religious ceremonies ; and the insurgents, sur- 
rounding the sacred edifices, easily efiected the over- 
throw and capture of the Royalists. Bolivar appears 

L 2 



148 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

not long to have hesitated as to the course he should 
pursue. He ranged himself under the banner of the 
Independents; and in 1811, while Miranda still 
headed the liberating forces, Bolivar was invested 
with the rank of colonel. He was so unfortunate in 
the earlier part of his career, as to have been misled 
by insidious counsel, and went so far as to denounce 
Miranda as a traitor and cause him to be delivered 
over to the Spaniards; an act which his countrymen 
generally have deemed to have been perfectly inde- 
fensible. It is a stain upon his memory. 

The Patriot cause prospered until by a most re- 
markable coincidence, the great earthquake of 1812^ 
on the anniversary of the outbreak and at the identi- 
cal hour, occurred, and inflicted wide-spread deso- 
lation destroying, according to general report in the 
country, no less than 30,000 souls. The priests took 
occasion every where to preach "the visible retribu- 
tion of Heaven," and with the cross in their hands, 
harangued the people in the public streets, and stig- 
matized the rebellion as the invention of Satan. By 
such means the Eoyalist sway was resumed, and the 
insurgents were scattered, but not annihilated. 

The most shocking barbarities signalized the re- 
sumption of the Royalist authority, which aroused 
the natives into fresh resistance, and paved the way 
for that reciprocal extermination, which subsequently 



SUCCESSES OF BOLIVAB. l49 

dishonoured the contest^ and caused such indiscriminate 
slaughter. Bolivar^ who had abandoned the country 
and sought refuge in Cura9oa^ indignant at the cruel 
treatment of his partisans, returned to the Main; and 
having organised a scanty band of followers^ began 
from that moment to display the rapidity of action^ 
and fervid zeal which characterized his after life. So 
prompt were his movements and rapid his success 
that, in August 1813, he was again master of the 
capital, and made a triumphal entry into Caraccas. 
Seated in a car, he is said to have been drawn into 
the city by twelve young ladies of good family, 
attired in white, while other fair hands crowned him 
with laurel, and strewed his path with flowers, amidst 
the cheers and exultation of the inhabitants. 

How many versions of that remarkable ceremony 
have I not heard from natives of all grades ! — some 
devoted admirers, others detractive enemies ; but all 
dwelling with ecstasy upon the triumph of a Patriot 
leader. 

Thenceforth Bolivar's career was of the most che- 
quered character. Alternately conquering and de- 
feated, at one time exercising extensive conmiand, 
and anon a fugitive without a horse or raiment. 
Mr. Hamilton assured me at Angostura, that upon 
one occasion he had found him without a change of 

L 3 



150 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

linen, and described to me Bolivar's thankfulness for 
the use of his wardrobe. 

On several occasions was he compelled by reverses 
to fly the country and to seek an asylum, not only 
at Cura9oa, but also at Jamaica, and at Hayti. 
While at Jamaica, a hired assassin sought to take his 
life, and actually plunged a poniard into the heart 
of his secretary, who was asleep and mistaken for 
himself. 

Notwithstanding the successes of Morillo, who 
after the Peninsular campaign arrived in Venezuela 
with 14,000 men, Bolivar still persevered to eman- 
cipate his country ; and although a wanderer in the 
islands of the Antilles, maintained communications 
with his partisans, and at length again headed the 
native forces on the plains. 

The universal hatred of the Spanish rule consti- 
tuted his advantage, while the ignorance and jealousy 
of the native leaders, and their ceaseless intrigues, 
created most of his difficulties, and may doubtless 
account for the appointment to commands of incom- 
petent men, whose fidelity at least could be relied 
upon. 

After the final victory at Carabobo (which, by the 
way was gained by the determined gallantry of the 
remnant of my neglected regiment), and the conse- 
quent surrender of the Koyalists, Bolivar extended his 



RELINQUISHMENT OF OFFICE. 151 

services to Peru, where alternate trust, and misgiving 
so disgusted him, that at length he returned to 
Columbia, only to encounter the more serious difficul- 
ties of governmental organization in his own country. 

He appears to have been weakly wedded to a code 
of his own framing, the Bolivian Constitution, which 
excited furious rancour amongst his late partisans, 
who one by one deserted him. A civil outbreak en- 
sued ; and the man who had spent his fortune and 
wasted his energies in the cause of his country, was 
compelled to fly from his house, and to hide himself 
from the stilettoes of domestic enemies* 

At length, worn out by internal strife and rest- 
less suspicion, he resolved to relinquish all authority, 
and to retire into the station of a simple citizen. His 
resolution came to late ; his health was irremediably 
undermined, and he died shortly after his relinquish- 
ment of power. He died, m fact, worn out and 
broken-hearted by the persecution of those whom he 
had sought (sometimes by mistaken meaiis) to serve. 

His last address to his countrymen betrayed the 
deep emotions of a mind which had encountered the 
most painful vicissitudes for one absorbing object. 

'^ I have abandoned," said he ** my fortune and 
my personal tranquillity in your cause. I am the 
victim of my persecutors, who have now conducted 
me to my grave ; but I pardon them." 

L 4 



152* • PBACE^ WAB, AND ADYENTUBB. 

He expired not far from Carthagena, in December 
1831, very shortly after his relinquishment of the 
'*BQpreme authority. 

Bolivar was mortal, and consequently inherited 
the failings of our common nature; but it is impos- 
sible to contemplate the history of his sacrifices, and 
his endless sufferings and services, without becoming 
deeply impressed with his unswerving patriotism. 

The war on each side had, as I have sud, been 
conducted upon barbarous principles. ''Guerra a 
muerte," or, as Mina in Old Spun had pronounced 
it, ''war to the knife," was the rule. The cold* 
blooded massacre of hundreds outraged mercy, and 
indelibly stained the Christian character of both 
parties. How often have I gazed upon the mona<* 
ment in the market-place of La Guayra, raised to 
commemorate the fusillade, which in one day con- 
signed eight hundred unhappy captives to the tomb I 
This was said to have been the retributive work of 
Bolivar; but should we attempt to enumerate the 
victims of Spanish vengeance, the numbers and cir- 
cumstances would horrify the least sensitive reader. 

Doubtless the Royalists first introduced this bloody 
immolation, which at length evoked reprisals by the 
Patriots in pure self-defence. The well known fate 
awaiting each in the event of capture, tended natu- 
rally to embitter the strife, and on all occasions lent 



APFEAHANCE. — DEFECTIVE DEMEAKOUB, 153 

desperation where courage might have failed^ as was 
exemplified in the citadel of Barcelona. 

Bolivar was short of stature and of slender form. * 
His features were small^ but his eyes expr^sive. At 
the period of my acquaintance with him, he had be- 
come prematurely gray, and had a countenance 
serious and careworn. His voice was singularly 
dissonant, and his general address to strangers shy 
and unfavourable. He always appeared to me to be 
awaiting an unfriendly communication, for his looks 
were suspicious, and his eyes usually downcast. I 
have compared my impressions respecting him with 
those of my friend General Miller, who knew him so 
well, and we both agreed as to the faulty nature of 
his general address. 

To this defect I have always attributed much of 
the hostility which prevailed agsdnst him. His 
quickness and activity were unsurpassed, and therein 
he differed from almost every other native chief. 

Paez indeed, a wild herdsman utterly devoid of 
education, was an active and indefatigable savage; 
but the original station, and property, and education 
of Bolivar, combined with his untiring activity, 
served to maintain his ascendancy. 

He possessed another eminent quality, viz. an 
utter contempt for privation. If reverses demanded 
sacrifice, he would cast aside all superfluous indul- 



154 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE, 

gence, and march on foot, and unweariedly with his 
humblest followers. 

Still he had a host of enemies and detractors, 
who incessantly delighted to asperse his character, 
and to depreciate his achievements. Endless were 
the tales recounted by the natives to his prejudice, 
some of whom even charged him with cowardice; a 
failing which his whole life belied. He had not the 
savoirfaire to enlist imiversal sympathy ; for in the 
language of General Miller, ^^ Bolivar was not per- 
sonally popular ; "* and notwithstanding his ennobling 
patriotism, he was at best rather the man of cm^um- 
stances than the man of choice. 

Had Marino, with his gracious demeanour, pos- 
sessed Bolivar's sterling qualities, he might have 
proved (as he had often sought to be) a formidable 
rival. Paez also, the idol of the Llaneros, was sup- 
posed only to want the requisite ambition, to have 
supplanted Bolivar, at a time when the plains con- 
stituted the stronghold of the Independent cause. 

In short, I experienced no trifling surprise to 
discover, in my intercourse with the natives, the 
little devotion of which Bolivar was personally the 
object, doubtless attributable to the absence of that 
individual tact and demeanour which so largely in- 

* Memoirs of Greneral Miller, vol. ii. p. 359. 



PATBIOTISM AND ORATOBY. 155 

spired the followers of Napoleon with love and 
admiration. Nor was Bolivar a man of transcen- 
dant ability ; his talents were respectable, but by no 
means remarkable. 

As a set-off to these disparagements, he was a 
man of undeniable patriotism, who had sacrificed 
every thing for his country; and I question if the 
annals of any nation can present a specimen of purer 
disinterestedness. When the republic of Bolivia 
voted him 1,000,000 of dollars, he assigned the 
whole sum to the purchase of the freedom of 1000 
negro slaves.* 

His external deportment betokened considerable 
personal vanity. He had doubtless become inflated 
by the exaggerated encomiums of the British and 
American press, which were largely copied into the 
Gaz^ta del Orinoco. Enamoured of the uniform of 
the British Horse Artillery, he adopted it, and 
strutted with an ill-disguised consciousness of im- 
portance. 

He was reputed a fluent speaker, but employed 
the senseless hyperbole for which the Spaniards, at 
that period, enjoyed an unenviable notoriety. The 
following example may suffice : — 

At the time when the impatience of a large portion 

* Memoirs of Greneral MUer, vol. ii. p. 299. 



156 PEACE^ WAB^ AKD ADYENTUBE. 

of the Peruvian people demanded the abandonment 
of the powers confided to Bolivar, and he had re* 
solved to relinquish them and return to Columbia, 
the friends of tranquillity looked forward with dread 
to returning anarchy. All the orders of the state 
consequently, in successive representative bodies, 
waited upon Bolivar, to implore him to retdn the 
duef authority. He seemed, however, r^ardless 
of those importunities, until a deputation of matrons, 
by eloquence and entreaties, elicited his consent, 
and in the course of his usual florid oratory, he pro* 
nounced the following absurd rhapsody : — ** Ladies : 
Silence is the only answer I ought to give to those 
enchanting expressions, which bind not only the 
heart, but duty. When beauty speaks, what breast 
can resist it? I have been the soldier of beauty, 
because Liberty is bewitchingly beautiful; she dif- 
fuses happiness, and decorates the path of life with 
flowers." * 

Many of the native chiefs were men of education, 
but the majority had been raised to importance by 
the casualties of the revolution. In the first cate* 

♦ Memoirs of Greneral Miller, vol. ii. p. 348. Mj memory as 
to some facts here recited has been refreshed bj the Me^ 
moirs of General Miller ; and I have also consulted the Na- 
tional and Penny Encycloptedias. Where I differ from these 
authorities in the quotation of numbers, I have taken in pre- 
ference the estimate current in the country. 



THE REVOLUTIONARY LEADERS. 157 

gory was Marino^ who had possessed extensive 
property in the district of Gueria. Soublett was of 
commanding exterior^ and was reputed to be a man 
of ability. Before the revolution^ he had been a 
schoolmaster. Santander^ Urdaneta, Sucr^^ and 
Montilla, were men of cultivated minds ; while Paez, 
BermudeZj Valdes,^omez, Sardeno, as also Aris- 
mendi^ were men of low origin, and devoid of edu- 
cation. 

The most superior intellect amongst them was 
Sucr6, who was endowed with refined manners and 
extensive information. He was in earnest in the 
cause, and under Bolivar commanded the Columbian 
troops in Peru and Bolivia. It was his good fortune 
to command the army at the victory of Ayacucho. 
During an emeute in Bolivia he lost an arm. Such 
was the too frequent reward of services in those 
provinces. Colonel Sucre, with whom I travelled 
from Maturin to Angostura, was the brother of that 
respected chief. 

It is perhaps hardly allowable to criticize too 
nicely the appearance and habiliments of a semi- 
savage people, striving to throw off an intolerable 
yoke, the very cause indeed of their denuded con- 
dition. To the British soldier, however, the ** tatter- 
demalion bands" (as they were aptly termed by a 
talented writer upon those countries) presented the 



158 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

strangest conceivable spectacle ; and as few British 
BoliUers ventured to reason upon cause and effect, it 
tended to excite derision and contempt. A Creole 
force usually consisted of men and lads of all ages 
and colours ; some naked, others with merely a shirt 
or a pair of drawers ; a few wore old military jackets 
without pantaloons; some wer» bare-headed, while 
others had straw hats, or hairy caps. Such as were 
armed with muskets often strapped their cartouches 
round their naked loins, whilst the majority had no 
other arms than pike heads loosely fixed upon short 
rough sticks. They marched in Indian or single 
file, and were unrestrained m their movements by 
practised exercises. The eternal poncho, or blanket 
with a slit in the centre to admit the head, and de- 
pending loosely over the shoulders, served the two- 
fold purpose of daily covering, and nightly warmth. 
Still, these were the very men adapted to the regions 
they inhabited ; and in the hour of trial, as Morillo 
had too fatally proved, were more than a match for 
the heavily accoutred Europeans. 

I am sorry to have to record our experience of the 
addiction of the natives to theft ; they have even been 
known to steal the very shoes from off the feet of the 
British while asleep. The utmost vigilance scarcely 
sufficed to guard against their cunning depredations. 

Of thQ women I cannot speak in terms of sweep- 



SOUTH AMERICAN WOMEN. 159 

ing condemnation, as I have heard others speak. 
There existed amongst them the strangest combi- 
nation of colours and features. Some of the Indian 
girls (differing, by the way, essentially from the 
Indian tribes of North America) impressed me by 
the beauty and softness of their countenances. They 
were at times playfully coquettish, but in the end 
discreet. The Sambo or Llanera females, with 
bronzed skin and fine but scant black hair, were by 
the habit of the country barely clad, yet there was 
no immodesty in their general demeanour. They 
were all expert swimmers ; and at Angostura in par- 
ticular, crowded to bathe within a nominal distance 
from the men. The line of demarcation was less 
fastidiously observed than in Europe ; but the custom 
prevailed, and to my observation was never abused. 
The blacks did not differ in their habits from their 
tawny compatriots, and certainly exhibited superior 
external decorum, as compared with those of our 
West India Islands. 

The ladies of pure white extraction observed no 
medium. They were always either slip-shod and 
slovenly, or dressed with studied effect ; at times they 
would vie in attire and deportment with the choicest 
belles of Europe. Few of them were well educated, 
nor were they remarkable for beauty. Upon the 
whole, while there was no apparent overt profligacy. 



■IP 



160 FEACEy WAS, AHD ADYEHTUBE. 

there was no redeemii^ distmction; for the 
woman and ihe mistieas met seemin^y on eqnal 
tenna. A high tone of morals did certainly not 
esdat, bat there was nothing paUidy observable to 
abode the moat pnacEsh. 



161 



CHAP. XIV. 

PBOOBESS DOWN THE OBINOCO. — Iin>lAN GBATITITDB. — DISASTEBS. — 

NAUTICAL MISMANAGEMENT. — EXTBEMITT. — CAPTUBB. CHANGE 

OF CONDITION AS PBISONEBS. — WE QUIT THE GULF OF PABIA. 

On the 23rd December, 1819 (the fifth anniversary, 
by the way, of our disembarkation at New Orleans), 
I sailed from Angostura in the polacre called the 
Industry, which had shipped upwards of eighty head 
of cattle, and was bound for Barbadoes. The after- 
noon was clear and tranquil, and I watched the re- 
ceding city with painful emotion. What had I not 
endured within its limits ? I rejoiced to depart, and 
yet I sighed to forsake a spot endeared to me by the 
recollection of the unlooked-for charity which had 
preserved my Ufe. 

We dropped down the river with the stream, 
passed the fortress of Guyana, and, anchoring at 
nights (we were too deeply laden to make fast to the 
bank), met with no untoward occurrence until we 
brought up at a spot called by the British Sancho Pan, 
where we proceeded on shore to cut grass for the 
cattle. Here I experienced the climax of torment, 
arising from such swarms of mosquitoes that no an- 

VOL, II. M 



162 PEACE, WAK, AND ADVEXTURE. 

tecedent or after visitation equalled this. I stamped 
my feet with rage, and actually roared with agony. 

Before arriving at that spot we met with a very 
impressive instance of native gratitude. An Tndian 
paddled alongdde in his canoe, and, with suppli- 
cating looks, implored us to give him some salt. 

Two or three handsful of the rock-salt, broken 
into small fragments, and packed in a cask with pork, 
were handed to him. This unlooked-for sapply 
proved a welcome boon to the delighted savage, who 
laughed, and clapped his hands, and departed with 
joyous alacrity. We had drifted with the stream^ 
and thought no more of our Indian, when we beheld 
a speck which, gradually enlarging as it neared ub, 
proved to be a canoe, and we conjectured that 
another petition for salt was about to be presented. 
But, not so : it bore the identical Indian, who, having 
deposited his salt on shore, paddled after us all that 
distance, with the prospect of the same space to be 
regained, in order to present us with a large fish, the 
spontaneous offering of a grateful heart The poor 
fellow threw it on board, his eyes sparkling with 
pleasure ; and then, nodding, and smiling, and show- 
ing an intensity of delight, pushed off, and soon pad- 
dled himself out of our sight. It was a beautiful 
trait of natural benevolence. 

We continued to float down with a stream run- 



OPENING DISASTERS. 163 

ning at the rate of four knots at least, until we 
approached the mouth of the river, near to a small 
island, over which birds so incessantly hovered that 
the British navigator named it ^^ Bird Island." 

We anchored for the night ; and, here, began to 
experience a series of disasters which changed our 
destination, and turned our hitherto tardy but 
peaceful course into one of appalling danger. 

Our captain was seized with fever, and the vessel 
was committed to the care of the mate, a low, igno- 
rant, and presumptuous American, whose seamanship 
was as limited as his intellect was barren. 

Here, however, let me frankly avow, that, in re- 
cording this fact, I am far from desirous to disparage 
the people of the United States. I had occasion 
thereafter to observe such kindly and generous 
qualities in men of those states in my hour of need, 
that I look back with grateful reminiscence to their 
disinterested sympathy. There are worthless and 
ignorant men of all nations ; and we had the mis- 
fortune, in this instance, to be associated with one of 
the worst specimens of their people. 

A furious hurricane arose in the night, which 
drove us on shore, where we lay almost high and 
dry, and the utmost danger threatened our craft. 
The captain, ill as he was, rushed to the deck, and 
employed all his nautical skill to avert the destruc- 

M 2 






164 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

tion of the vessel and, as the flow and reflux of the 
tide here operated, at its due return the polacre was 
once more anchored in deep water. The weather 
continuing stormy we were again driven on shore, 
but a second time succeeded in regaining adequate 
depth, not, however, in this instance, without the 
loss of an anchor. Two days had been thus con- 
smned, and under circumstances of unusual danger. 

The following morning we had weighed, and were 
quietly gliding seaward, when we suddenly saw our 
only boat (the painter of which, in the bustle of the 
preceding hours, had not been made properly fast) de- 
tached from the vessel, and about to be lost to us. 
Again did this intelligence summon our poor captain 
to the deck, who offered two dollars to any man who 
would swim after and secure it. A Portugese sailor 
volunteered, and, divesting himself of superfluous 
clothing, crossed himself, and plunged into the 
stream. He had not proceeded many yards before 
the ill-fated man was seized by an alligator, and, 
uttering a piercing cry, was roughly upraised for a 
moment, and then dragged under the water to rise 
no more. 

The shock to all who witnessed this spectacle may 
be conjectured : of course, the boat was now left to 
float away, and we lost, as after-experience proved, 
our main security. 



EXPRESS FROM THE ORINOCO. 165 

These incidents aggravated our captain's illness^ 
and he became alarmed for his fate. In the most 
earnest accents he implored of me to bleed him (he 
was furnished with a lancet); and, urged by his im- 
portunity, I at length reluctantly consented, and, 
with more expertness than my ignorance of such an 
art warranted me to suppose possible, I effected the 
object. That process saved him from delirium, and 
from his bed he was enabled to advise his incom- 
petent subordinate. 

Our polacre had been a Spanish prize, purchased 
at Margarita, and thence taken to St. Thomas in 
order to obtain a Danish register, — a common prac- 
tice in that war. She was scarcely sea-worthy, and 
the sails were too old and tattered to encounter bad 
weather, or, indeed, to sail upon a wind. Moreover, 
we had only been provided with provisions for the 
crew, and fodder for the cattle, for a calculated 
voyage of a few days ; consequently, we began to be 
threatened with actual want. 

It was, therefore, determined to relinquish the 
attempt to reach Barbadoes, but to make for Tobago. 

We crossed the bar at this outlet of the Orinoco, 
and surveyed a wide expanse of treacherous waters, 
terminating, on either hand, in gloomy swamp, and 
forest. Our relentless enemies, the mosquitoes, were 
indisposed to face the fresh sea-breeze, and took 

Ji 8 



166 PEACE, WAR, AND ABYENTUBE. 

their departure. No words can describe the sudden 
comfort of their absence. It was a luzuiy to de- 
scend to the cabin, and there to sit down in peace. 

On stretching up the passage called the Sexpent's 
Tongue, with a strong breeze, and the current dead 
against us, we found our wretched polacre^ with her 
ragged sails, quite unequal to contend with these 
moderately opposing obstacles; and, after a vain 
struggle of some hours, our captain advised a 
further alteration in our course. By his direction^ 
consequently, the vessel was put about, and the 
Punto de Cacoa, a small unfrequented roadstead, at 
the south-east angle of Trinidad, was selected as 
our object, and there it was designed we should 
anchor. 

Our ignorant mate brought up in the most lub- 
berly style, and letting go the anchor, before the 
vessel had lost her head-way, our cable ran out, and 
we lost our remaining anchor, and moreover were in 
danger of running ashore. This catastrophe arose 
from sheer want of seamanship; but, getting the 
polacre about, we again stood gently in, and let fall 
the kedger, our only remaining stay. A sharp 
breeze, and a rapid current, caused such a strain upon 
this frail hold, that the vessel drifted, and again were 
we compelled to seek the mid channel, where a for- 
midable solitary rock, called "the Soldier,** ad- 
monished us to steer with circumspection. The 



BEDUCED TO EXTREMITY. 167 

poor captain grieved over these disasters, but could 
only tender the best counsel in his power from his 
bed. 

The ensuing morning disclosed the full extremity 
of our condition. Without an anchor or boat, 
and no port into which we might guide our unsea- 
worthy craft, and our sails so rent and tattered as to 
prove unavailing appliances, we floated under almost 
hopeless circumstances. Not a sail or coasting boat 
could we discern, and we were literally the sport of 
the elements. To aggravate our misfortune, half 
our crew was sick, and disabled, and our circum- 
stances had become all but desperate. 

We had exhausted our provisions and water, had 
no grass for the cattle, or a stick of fuel remaining 
even to boil a kettle of water. Baw salt-fish was now 
our only sustenance. The poor beasts were hourly 
dropping down dead, and we learned the fact of how 
little these huge animals can endure. They all ap- 
peared to die without a struggle, and were consigned 
to the deep. We now began seriously to ponder 
upon our fate. To be reduced to subsist on raw 
beef, or otherwise to be starved or stranded, ap- 
peared our miserable prospect. 

As a dernier resortj and under the advice of our 
prostrate captain, we stretched over to the coast of 
Gueria, under the hope of thence getting a long 

X 4 



168 PEACE^ WAB, Aia> ADTESTTTTKE^ 

reach across the Gulf of Paria, snd percliaiioe 
making the port of Spun. This was a dangeioiis 
expedient ; for the predatory flecheras^ or gun-boats^ 
of the Koyalists (who occupied the whole coast) were 
known to harbour in the creeks and inlets of that 
shorc^ to look out for and capture the merchant 
vessels issuing from the Orinoco. HoweTer, this 
was our last resource^ and the scheme was accord* 
ingly attempted. 

The gulf was favourably placid, and the wind 
moderate. Late in the afternoon of the 6th of 
January, 1820, we tacked, and, standing away from 
the shore, kept the vessel's head as close to the wind 
as practicable. 

Night approached with that rapid obscurity 
common to a tropical close of day. I had enveloped 
myself in my cloak, but tried in vain to sleep ; and, 
at length, arising, I addressed my conversation to 
the steersman, when, of a sudden, we heard the 
j)hi8hing of oars, the gurgling agitation of the waters, 
and, looking astern, beheld a flechera dashing through 
the surge with incredible velocity. 

"It's a boat I" cried the steersman, '^and we're 
taken ; " but, with the instinct of a seaman, he 
shouted, " Boat a hoy ! what do you want ? " " We 
want that ship," said a loud voice, in Spanish ; and, in 
less than a minute, a numerous band of men, sword 



ASSAILED AND CAPTURED. 169 

in hand^ bounded up the rigging and covered our 
decks. They assailed every individual whom their 
eyes encountered, but wounded nobody. I received 
a blow which felled me over a coil of rope, and my 
cloak was snatched from off my shoulders. 

On quickly arising I saw the captain of the 
flechera mounted on the companion hatchway, and 
heard him shouting lustily " Mate me est gente I " 
("Kill all those people ! ") but still no one was injured. 
Approaching and addressing him in Spanish, I 
hastily disclosed our real situation, and, begging he 
would spare our people, assured him the vessel was 
his own. 

I answered all his rapid inquiries with as much 
readiness as my trepidation would allow, and no 
sooner did our captor become fully cognisant of our 
forlorn condition, than all bluster ceased, and the 
utmost suavity marked his tone and deportment. 

Well-acquainted with the coast, he guided us by 
the light of the moon (which now rose with un- 
clouded brightness), through an inconsiderable open- 
ing amongst rocks of moderate height, into a secluded 
natural basin, so smooth, and unruffled, that the 
kedger sufficed to ensure our anchorage. There lay 
our ill-omened craft in a state of calm repose, con- 
trasting pleasingly with her late calamitous contest 
with the elements. We retired to rest, with the 



170 PEACB, WAB3 AlTD ABTXHTUBB. 

oonsdousnesB that our liyee were tempaauHy ieoore^ 
but Btill we were prisoners, and in the hands of an 
enemy whose deeds in those regi<ms had staniped 
them as relentless ; our hearts^ therefore^ oonld not 
fail to be disturbed hy doubt and apprehension. 
The captain of the flebhara, a creole» was m maa of 
commanding stature, but so untaught, except in pre* 
datory warfare, that he could neither read nor wrila 
Wb crew connsted of Creole^ of Tarious tints and 
parentage, who voluntarily embraced a life of wild 
excitement, sweetened by the hope of ^under. The 
Spanish Gbyemment had encouraged many such ad- 
venturers to encourage risk in their service not by 
the incentive of periodical pay, but by the expectant 
spoliation of occasional captures. Happily for us, 
our captor was a man of reputed humanity, and the 
treatment we experienced confirmed his title to 
respect for comparative forbearance. 

The ensuing morning found us still quietly riding 
in that tranquil harbour, where nought but the 
gentlest undulation disturbed the equipoise of our 
polacre. At the breakfast hour we were regaled, 
unexpectedly, with casava, turtle, oranges, and 
cocoa, and the transition from want to profudon 
almost extorted thankfulness for a change, even to 
bondage. 

In due time the flechera was employed to tow us 



A TRANQUIL HAVEN. 171 

from this secluded nook into the gulf, which, agi- 
tated by the stiff diurnal breeze, made us once more 
conscious of our maritime incapacity. 

Our captors, however, had not been idle ; the sails 
had been hastily repaired, and our progress, though 
slow, was no longer impossible. We passed through 
the shallowest channel of the Bocas, and, rounding 
the continental headland, once more sailed in the 
Caribbean Sea. 



DISCOVERY AlTD F£ABS. 173 

In apparently unselected comers, every suspicious ar- 
ticle, of whatever denomination ; and, when the trying 
hour of search actually arrived, I assumed an air of 
affected unconcern. The existing contest, however, 
was one of too fearful desperation to allow me to 
play such a part with perfect equanimity. 

Each article of uniform was piece by piece drawn 
forth, and its owner inquisitively sought for. It was 
useless to attempt to conceal the fact that they be- 
longed to me; and I was admonished by a finger, 
significantly drawn across the throat, that my doom 
was inevitable. I thought so myself, and relin* 
quished all hope of preserving my life. 

The search proceeded, and all the papers were se- 
cured. They were counted, their external appear^ 
ance scrutinised, and the whole collection wa« ti^l m 
a silk handkerchief, with a knot of recognuHibk U/rmf 
and placed \x^n a locker ; for there wai wA % iA$*^. 
secure fastening throughout that crazy yjh^^,. Su 
intimation that death would be the lot of af#/ ^/M 
who should be hardy enough to touch tlie ytt^M^m 
deposit, was given with a voice and maiifi^ iS^nX 1/^- 
tokened sincerity. 

I entertained, as I have stated, btti nUft^^ a;j^j^; 
tations of ultimately presenring my Y4h ' J/vi ^»^ 
divine principle of hope is viiaJ ; %fAf ^ii*^**ji ^^/ ^v t 
naturally desired to guard M^fftiuH ^i^'jf i^^^M*^ 



174 PEACZy WASy A2n> JtDTKSTUKS. 



Amongst the papers fcond in my pov- 
wamntL, wm a letter firom YiscoiiiiteflB Perceval 



(^wiodi I had pfeaerrcd with sempuloiis care) to 
Lotd Cocfanme, who was then an admiral in the 
Clnfian ferric^ and had made the Spaniards follj 
^•ensible both of hia piesenee and prowess. His came 
wai^ eonacqnendj^ as orach hated as dreaded. It had 
been snggeBted b^ that kind lady, that, in the event 
of my UEng in inth his lordship, soch an introduo- 
tion ndgkt pnyfe serviceaUe ; and I had preserved it 
for sack a pnnwhle rontingPfncy. It was sealed with 
Uack wax; and its exact contents, althongh divined, 
were unknown to me. The heat of a tn^ical climate 
hnd i^nni the soGfitj, and eflGu^ the external 
etnap and eonmet, of the seaL It had, conseqaentlT^ 
the j^speaniftoe of an impre^on rudely slurred over. 
AEve* of course, to aD the forthcoming investiga- 
licou and condcioQS of the searching scrutiny of which 
I should be the object, I felt intense apprehension for 
the probable interpretation of this letter, and com* 
municated my anxiety, first to the supercargo, and 
afterwards to the captain ; and we all agreed that it 
was important to our common safety to secure that 
letter to Lord Cochrane. 

Prior to its seizure, I had endeavoured to consign 
it and other papers to the sea ; but had watched in 
vain for the safe opportunity to do so. Now, how- 



A MIRACULOUS DISENTANGLEMENT. 175 

ever^ our general opinion was that we miLst make an 
effort to redeem it ; and the question was^ how we 
should effect the object. 

There was something seemingly miraculous in our 
disentanglement from this perplexity ; and the scep- 
tical might well be excused in doubting the strict 
reality of our means of extrication. Here, however, 
I pledge my faith to the truthfulness of an incident 
which, at the first blush, wears the semblance of im- 
accountable chance, but which, more deeply consi- 
dered, assumes the aspect of providential inter- 
position. 

I had for a long time past carried in my pocket a 
small piece of black sealing-wax. How I first came 
to put and to retain it there, I have not the remotest 
recollection. I used, however, to transfer it to my 
mouth when climbing or travelling, in order to pro- 
mote salivary action ; and, upon this remarkable occa- 
sion, there was at hand the very thing needful to our 
purpose. The captain produced a sheet of Bath 
paper ; and, while the supercargo kept watch, I hur- 
riedly wrote a letter in terms the most favourable to 
our circumstances, sealed it with my tiny remnant of 
black wax, which I thumbed in a manner most imi- 
tative of the original, and the next question was, 
how we should abstract the one, and substitute the 
other. 



176 FEACE^ WAR, AND ADVENTUEE. 

We resolved, however, to effect the transfer, and 
accordingly watched for the fitting opportunity. I 
can never forget the hazard of that moment. My 
diminutive but plucky friend, the supercargo, was the 
vigilant watchman ; and at hia bidding, " Now is the 
time," I tremblingly seized the handkerchief, undid 
the knot, snatched from the bundle the fatal letter, 
and substituted the counterfeit. My imitation of the 
original tie was perfect, and the fraud was not dis- 
covered. The after-perusal of the letter to Lord 
Cochrane made me thankful, indeed, that I was re- 
lieved from the' inevitable interpretation of that most 
dangerous document. It breathed a hope that, ere 
it should be presented, the bearer (and my name was 
mentioned) would have established a claim to his 
lordship's attentions by his '* previous services in 
the glorious cause." I have not the smallest doubt 
that the caption of that letter would inevitably have 
sealed my fate. 

I have said that our captor deserved credit for 
comparative forbearance. He forbore to inflict 
bodily injury upon any one, or to sacrifice a single 
life ; but there his merit halted. Every farthing of 
money was taken from us all, and we were despoiled 
of every portable article belonging to us. Even my 
hat was taken from off my head, and the stockings 
from off my feet. In lieu of the former, I was fur- 



A COOK IN GAT APPABEL. 177 

nished with an old straw hat ; and there I stood a 
captive^ without a penny, a pair of stockings, or a 
second shirt. 

The spoil was distributed amongst the victor crew; 
and in the midst of our despondency, we could not 
resist a smile at contemplating one swarthy fellow, 
who acted as cook. A good pair of French grey 
trowsers, embellished with a broad silver stripe (late 
my property), fell to this man's lot. He instantly 
put them on ; and thus, unusually smart, fell to 
cooking, without for a moment relinquishing the 
habit of wiping his alternately black and greasy 
fingers on his small clothes. In less than a quarter 
of an hour, the condition of my gay regimental 
trowsers caused us immoderate laughter. 

We brought up at Carupinar, and our command • 
ant went on shore. Thence we hugged the land, 
and sailed round Margarita. I gazed upon that well 
known island, hoping, yet by some instinctive im- 
pulse dreading, lest some cruiser might see and in- 
tercept us. No such interception occurred ; and we 
were conducted towards the port of Cumana, but our 
ill-conditioned vessel appeared to demur; and her 
shattered sails refusing their office, the frail bark 
was drifted half way to Barcelona. We were 
boarded by Spaniards, with a Captain Guerrero for 
their head, and every endeavour was essayed to 

VOL. II. N 



178 PEACE, WAR, AND ADYENTUBE. 

oombat the natural weakness of the vessel in Tain. 
Boats and small craft were then brought into requi-* 
sition, and by dint of pulling and rowing we were at 
length conducted to the desired port Meanwlule, 
we had all been sworn and subjected to the closest 
examination touching the enemy, and our individual 
knowledge of their movements was sought to be 
elicited. 

Arrived at Cumana, I was introduced to the 
Gbvemois General Cires, and was received by that 
chief with every outward demonstration of kindness. 
In the most delicate manner he deplored the spolia- 
tion to which we had been subjected, and considerately 
presented me with a roll of silver, saying, ^ You will 
want a little money for general purposes, and there 
is a trifle to supply your immediate necessities." He 
expressed his regret at our recent deprivation, but 
added, ** You know those men regard such acquisi- 
tions as their lawful plunder, and I regret that I 
cannot direct the restitution of your property." All 
thb was done in the kindest manner, and I began to 
surmise that the Spaniards were not the fiends their 
enemies had represented them to be. 

From the presence of the general I was transferred 
to a quiet bourgeois family, with whom I was per- 
mitted to remain a week. I was free to roam 
through the town, which displayed no remarkable 



CHARITY OF ENEMIES, 179 

feature^ to look on as a spectator in the billiard room, 
and was even allowed to be present at a Marionette 
representation, the subject of which was scriptural, 
but its details intensely absurd. 

Here at Cumana I was the object of active 
charity. One Spanish officer gave me a hat, another 
a shirt or two, and a third a pair or two of stockings. 
Thus was my wardrobe replenished. Again was I 
sworn and catechised upon every subject referable to 
the Independents, and was closely questioned as to 
the fate of the prisoners captured before those walls, 
and slaughtered in the manner I have antecedently 
related. Dreading the consequences to myself should 
the truth transpire, I affected ignorance of their 
fate, but expressed a persuasion that they yet sur* 
vived as prisoners. My testimony was committed to 
writing, and that record subsequently influenced my 
destination. 

I still continued to suffer from ague ; and during 
its periodical attacks experienced the most humane 
attention from every one. At length I was sud- 
denly conducted to the beach, and handed into a 
flechera bound for La Guayra, which set sail in the 
evening, and the following forenoon we brought up 
at the Moro of Barcelona, which had so recently been 
made familiar to me. There we landed to pass a 

V 2 



180 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

few hours, and a boat from the opposite direction at 
the same time landed the Spanish Colonel Tovar^ 
who was proceeding to Cumana to relieve General 
Cires, about to depart on temporary leave of ab- 
sence. 

I was seized with my tertian attack of ague, and 
the Colonel extended to me the most benignant 
.attentions. With unparalleled suavity and kindli- 
ness he directed the application of every available 
remedy, and his servants under his direction tended 
me with zealous care. Again had I experienced the 
active charity of an enemy. 

:' Colonel Tovar conversed much with me, and ex- 
l^^essed an anxious interest in my fate. He pro- 
mised to write to the general-in-chief, Morillo, in my 
behalf, and subsequently fulfilled his promise. 

At parting he consigned to the care of the captain 
of the flechera sundry small articles, delicacies in 
Aat country, for my consumption, with an earnest 
command that they might be devoted to my ex- 
clusive use. 

Our flechera was a boat at once long and deep, 
and capable of containing a goodly freight. The 
gunwale was so low, that but for the adjunct of 
pliant skins extending from the stern-sheets to the 
bows, capable at will of extension or depression, 
as occasion suited, we should have shipped water. 



VOYAGE TO LA GUATBA, 181 

and been In clanger of foundering. If, however, 
the breeze should freshen, and the sea become tur- 
bulent, the rapid tension of these artificial sides 
afforded ample security, combined with lightness. 
The craft sailed swiftly, and seemed in all respects 
suited to coasting purposes. 

Throughout this rapid voyage lines were employed 
night and day, and multitudes of a fish (pege-rey), 
called in the West Indies the king-fish, were caught. 
They are much prized and considered a delicacy. 
Strange to say, as we approached La Guayra, not a 
single fish of any kind could we hook, and such was 
reported to be the invariable experience of that 
coast. 

In four days' time we reached La Guayra; and 
entering that unsafe port, contended with the ever- 
rolling surf that breaks upon its shores. After the 
usual struggle we landed. 

I could form in this short interval little judgment 
of the country, along the sea-board of which we had 
glided. A continuous belt of lofty hills, occasionally 
swelling into mountainous masses, constituted an 
outline of monotonous aspect. Once only between 
Barcelona and La Guayra did I land ; but that one 
descent introduced me to a picturesque village, 
where comfort and fertility appeared to abound. 

N 3 



182 PEACE, WAB, AND ADYENTUBE. 

Ab we neared our destination mountains upreared 
iheir rugged crests, and the SlUa of Caraccas, with 
the Sierra dividing the port from the city, by a few 
intermediate miles, began to exhibit an imposing 
elevation. 



183 



CHAP. XVI. 

LANDING. — ALTEBED CONDITION. — INOASCEBATION, WITH ITS BB- 
FLECTIONS AND PROSPECT. — UNLOOKSD-FOB VISITS. — AN UN- 
EXPECTED ENTEBTAINMENT. — SUDDEN SUMMONS TO DEPABT. — 
INTEBYIEW WITH THE CAPTAIN- OENEBAL. — BESULT. — CABACOAS* 
— AN EABTHQUAKE. — ILLNESS. — INLAND DESTINATION. — THE 
MOUNTAINS OF THE CUCUISAS. 

On landing I followed the captain of the flechera to 
the residence of the commandant, through portions of 
the town where trading activity appeared to prevail. 
I waited, by direction, outside the house, while 
my conductor entered, and, after a short lapse of 
time, was accosted by an aged officer, who desired 
me to follow him. He led the way without uttering 
another syllable, and conducted me to an outskirt, 
where, connected with some fortifications, were small 
irregular buildings, over which sentries were posted, 
and a contiguous guard of soldiers idly loitered. 
Keys were demanded and produced, a huge padlock 
was unlocked, a massive iron bolt withdrawn, and a 
well-fended door thrust open. I was desired to 
enter, and did so ; and without another word being 
spoken, the door was closed upon me, the bolts made 

N i 



184 PEACE^ WAB, Alfjy ADYENTUBE. 

fast, and I found myself the solitaiy occupant of a 
drear, unfurnished room, about twenty feet square, 
with stone basement, two windows secured by strong 
iron bars, and dingy walls which had once been 
white. 

What anguish and terror seized my heart at that 
moment I How I gazed around this naked room, 
fraught with images of death, I leave the reader to 
determine! 

There I stood apparently doomed, and hopeless of 
human succour or passing sympathy ; death, prema- 
ture but inevitable, seemed to stare me in the face, 
iaind folding my arms, and pacing that dreary room, 
and ejaculating strange and incoherent sentences, I 
consumed the next two hours. — All hopes of life had 
abandoned me, and I began to dwell upon the pro- 
bable circumstiances of my exit from this world, when 
the bolt was withdrawn, and the same aged officer 
entered, accompanied by persons bearing a camp 
couch (an elongated form of the canvass camp-stool), 
' who deposited their load in my apartment, together 
with a pillow and a single sheet. 

The town adjutant (for such that aged function- 
ary proved to be) handed me three reals, and in- 
formed that I should daily receive that allowance, 
which amounted in the coin of the country to some- 
thing exceeding one shilling. He directed me to 



TEEBOBS IN PBISON. 185 

apply to the guard for whatever I might desire to 
purchase, and again left me to my own solitary 
reflections. 

Worn out by anxiety I laid me down to rest, but 
alas^ not to sleep. I dreaded midnight assassination, 
said to be a mode of dispatch practised by the royal- 
ists. Every footstep or distant sound caused me to 
start up, and await the assassin's knife. My nights 
were consequently sleepless, and my days consumed 
in restless reflections. One impression I loved to 
encourage, viz., the manner in which I would meet 
death, if publicly executed. In that event I vowed 
(and feel sure I should have carried out my resolu- 
tion) to encounter death without flinching. I knew 
my enemy, and would have scorned to ask for mercy, 
where no clemency would be shown me. 

For twelve long days did I endure this close incar- 
ceration, relieved only upon two occasions. One day 
my prison door was suddenly unbarred, when in 
walked some six or seven gentlemen, who had pro- 
cured permission to visit me. They proved to be 
English and American merchants trading to that 
port. The chief spokesman was Mr. Wood, an 
Irishman, who employed every consoling term to 
fortify my spirits. His companions were equally 
solicitous to comfort me, and when at length they 
departed, they left me with the assurance that no 



186 peace; WABy A3a> ADYEKTURE. 

oieans ahoiild be left onesBay ed to prcHnote my safety. 
Mr. Wood hastened to the commandant, and oflfered 
Us secority to any amount, with a view to secure my 
release from dose captivity^ but the proportion was 
not entertained. 

On another occasion my door was thrown open, 
and in marched, in full costume, the captain of the 
guard. 'ESs name was Coro, and addressing me in 
Spanish, he asked if I had not been in Spain; my 
answer in the sffirmatiTe led to a long conversation 
respecting that conntiy, which tenninated with a re- 
quest; on his part, that I would dine with him that 
day. 

Of course I was too glad to. accept so unlooked- 
for an invitation, and consequently at the appointed 
hour, the serjeant conducted me from the prison to 
the adjacent guard-room, whero a nice dinner pro- 
cured from the pasada awaited me. An unusual 
repast, some good wine, and fragrant cigars made 
me temporarily happy, and I left my entertainer with 
the warm acknowledgments which his kindness and 
condescension deserved at my hands. In the mean- 
time, my accumulated sufferings b^an to exhibit 
their external symptoms. I was attacked by those 
excruciating ^^malditas" which assail the joints in 
the form of irritating blains ; and what with my bodily 
sufferings and mental conflict, I became pitiably ilL 



BEMOYAL TO GABAGOAS. 187 

In this situation^ one brilliant afternoon^ I was 
summoned by my aged supervisor to accompany him 
to the commandant's quarters. He silently led the 
way, and with painful exertion I limped after him. 
We had not proceeded many yards, ere we met the 
very same merchants, promenading in a body, who 
had paid me a charitable visit. They stopped to 
greet and to comfort me, and observing my disquie- 
tude, used every persuasive art to sustain myTopes, 
although they afterwards informed me that their 
own impressions at that moment consigned me to 
death. 

Arrived at the house of the commandant, where 
in like manner I had stood twelve days before, I 
beheld a mounted soldier completely armed, and a 
saddle-mule standing by his side. 

The lapse of a few minutes brought out the town 
adjutant, who delivered written instructions to the 
soldier, and directed me to mount the mule. I did 
so, and was forthwith on my way to Caraccas. 

There was so benevolent an expression in the 
countenance of my escort, that I instantly reposed 
confidence in him. He was a soldier of the regiment 
of Castile, and his conduct to me proved him to be 
a man of gentle and humane disposition. We passed 
the belt of Cocoa-nut trees, which then formed so 
bold a feature on the margin of the bay of La Guayra, 



188 PEACE^ WAB^ AND ADVENTURE. 

and shortly began to ascend the mountwi which 
interposes between that port and the capitaL On 
reaching the summit, we passed under dripping trees, 
humid with the everlasting clouds that flit around it, 
and stopping for an instant at a miserable venta 
established to refresh travellers, we reached the 
descending point just at close of day. At an amazing 
depth beneath us lay the city of imposing magnitude, 
with a moderate expanse of cultivated vicinage, and 
inountainous development on every hand. 
' The customary sudden darkness stole upon us as 
we began our precipitous descent, and we had not 
proceeded fiur, ere I heard the clatter of swords, and 
the approaching tramp of horses' feet. The obscurity 
was too dense to enable me to peer through it, and I 
became impressed with the conviction that arms 
were at hand to dispatch me. My recent suffering 
had unnerved me, and I was consequently more 
than ordinarily the slave of apprehension. 

However, the party of horsemen overtook and 
passed us with the usual salutation of buena noche, 
and on inquiry as to their character and destination, 
my guide informed me, that under the casualties of 
almost universal warfare, travellers, of whatever de- 
nomination, rarely ventured to journey without arms. 
We reached the city of Caraccas in safety, and I was 



THE CAPTAIN-GENERAL. 189 

conducted to the residence of the captain general^ 
Don Eamon Correa. 

I was ushered into the presence of a pompous aged 
man, who sat surrounded by officers of his staff, in a 
state of dignified negligL He did not condescend to 
bow as I entered, but in a tone of assumed severity 
exclaimed haughtily, "Who are you?" I answered 
with suitable meekness, ^^I am the unfortunate 
English Captain your prisoner." The only gazette 
published, of course under the surveillance of the 
government, had notified my capture, which had 
created more sensation than could possibly have been 
conjectured, and by the designation of ** the English 
Captain " I had become rather extensively known. 

Without further preface, the captain-general de- 
manded if I spoke French, and an answer in the 
affirmative entailed upon me a long conversation in 
that language. All stateliness disappeared, I was 
invited to be seated, and a kind familiarity now per- 
vaded our intercourse. At the end of an hour at 
least, a bell was rung, and an aide-de-camp with one 
arm was directed to conduct me to the posada^ with 
an intimation to the landlord that I was to be 
supplied with all needful entertainment, at the ex- 
pense of the captain-general. There the aide-de- 
camp quitted me, and again was I as free as I had 
heretofore been at Cumana. 



1 



190' PEACE, WAB, ASD ADVBKTCRE. 

The oeva of my arriTol in CaracMuts quickly cir- 
culated, and moltitudea of people, nrged by curiosity, 
crowded the poiada in order to get a glimpse at me, 
and I became the obaerved of all obaervera. The 
houae was literally beset, and I was gazed at with 
intmise ooiiooity. Wlule standing in the billiard 
foooi, which was thronged to overfiow, I obeerved 
my nteroaniile £riend ii£ La Gnaym, Mr. Wood, to 
flot«r. He Boon gave me to understand that I was 
to sap with lum, and that he had directed a camp 
bed to be primed for me in his own bedroom. 

I managed to emerge frcHU the crowd, and to walk 
vp Um piuuMpal street of Caraccaa, which, afiter my 
tecent Umited ezporienoe of towna, impressed me 
1^ its commanding length and breadth. In due time, 
I had supped with Mr. Wood and a Spanish Colood, 
named Kodriguez ; and at the hour of rest, went to 
repose in my allotted berth, and there learned from 
Mr. Wood, that uutiety for my fate had allured him 
to the taty. Previously to our meeting, he had 
visited the captain-general, and with him bad pleaded 
for my safety. 

He repeated to me (incredulous as I was) the 
captain-general's assertion, that my life was not 
in danger. Here it first transpired that the perusal 
of my papers had determined General Morillo to see 
me himself; and my tran^t to his head-quarters 



ASPECT OF THE CITY. 191 

had therefore been directed. Mr. Wood quitted me 
the following mornings and I was left in Caraccas^ 
each moment becoming more and more disabled by 
the crael malady with which I was then stricken. 

I remained in the city three days^ and to the best 
of my ability explored it. Its buildings commenced 
at the scarcely terminated slope of the intermediate 
mountain range, dividing it from the sea. It was 
then about a mile in length, and consisted of a 
series of parallel streets intersected at right angles. 
The principal street, then called La CaUe de la 
Mansana, was of imposing breadth, and contained 
good houses and shops, all of white exterior, and im- 
pressed the traveller by their comparative architectural 
pretensions. No house boasted of more than one 
story in height; but there was allotted to each a 
breadth which compensated for restricted elevation. 

Emerging from the main street, you entered a 
wide plaza devoted to the market, where stood 
also a noble cathedral with a lofty spire, which, 
although partially rent, had still withstood the shock 
that in 1812 had crumbled, or prostrated so many 
inferior buildings. Most of the churches were in a 
dilapidated state, shaken by the fatal earthquake; 
but all had received the aid of art to fit them for 
temporary purposes. Except the main street, there 



192 PEACE^ WAB, AND ADYENTUBE. 

^as no other redeemed from the usual mediocrity 
attaching to bye streets. 

After the second day of my arrival at Caraccasy my 
dlments so increased^ that I was glad to court my 
bed, even in the daytime. While thus reposing, I 
heard a loud outcry, and experienced various indioftr 
tions of unusual excitement. I started up only to b(3 
conscious of an indescribable sensation. More firom 
curiosity than fear, I rushed to the window^ an^ 
|)eheld the streets thronged with countless inha* 
bitants, who had, with no unusual celerity, has:^ 
tened into the open air. We had been viuted by an, 
earthquake, which happily produced no mischief; 
ftnd in an hour's time all further perturbation ha^ 
subsided. This seemed to be no unfrequent occup- 
rence ; and such an event having passed harmlessly, 
became a guarantee for at least a short respite from 
so terrible a visitation. 

I was warned that the ensuing day was appointed 
for my departure inland. That announcement was 
most unwelcome ; for my state of suflfering was 
hourly becoming more acute ; so much so, that the 
host of the posada waited upon the captain-general to 
acquaint him with the fact, and to represent my help- 
less condition. Thereupon a surgeon was ordered to 
visit me, and he, it appeared, in vain announced my 
incapacity to travel. Go I must ; and in the after- 



MOUNTAIN FERTILITY, 193 

noon the soldier who had escorted me from La Guayra 
was at the door of the posada^ and again mounted on 
a mule, I began a long inland journey on the 10th 
February. 

We rested for the night at a small village about 
four leagues distant from Carraccas, the intermediate 
distance being devoid of scenic interest, although 
esteemed rich and productive. 

Early on the following morning we started over a 
mountain route, at first sterile and of desert aspect, 
but, when the summit had been climbed, we began to 
estimate the proverbial richness of the province. 

Descending to a fruitful valley, in which stood the 
village of San Pedro, we again ascended to a moderate 
elevation, and traversing a somewhat undulatory sur- 
face, beheld a wide expanse of rich and varied culti- 
vation. Few scenes can surpass the glory of this 
beautiful mountain range. Not a patch of ground 
was wasted. From the summit to the base, on either 
hand, the soil teemed with productiveness. On the 
higher ridges and slopes European fruits and vege- 
tables flourished ; and in the contiguous valleys, of 
ample breadth, we contemplated the lavish fertility, 
and varied products of the tropics. Numerous cot- 
tages and rural homesteads — some, indeed, most 
romantically situated, tended to enrich the scenery, 

VOL. II. o 




Iftt PEACE, WAS, IKS ADVENTURE. 



tad to impreae the beholder with its peerless beauty. 
I had hwa pn^iored at Carmccas for umiaual gratlfi- 
(Ktiou IB the ocmtemplatioD of this favoured range ; 
but ita extent and floresoence far outstripped the 
inag^natioikj and fiUed me with wondering delight. 

Proves of mnlea, some eT«n numbering 150, fre- 
fWotly.paBaed OB, laden vitb produce for the coast. 
Hie amft g in g size, powei^ and spirit of these invalu- 
•Us anboals impress t£e reflective European vrith 
A* faountifiil economy <rf Nature. The race is com- 
fuai&relj nnkoowu in England. There the ill-con- 
ditionadt dinunntlre creature called a mule is a mere 
sarioatoie of tiie stately and mettlesome animal of 
UMte'regpona, <me of nbose rarest qualities it is to 
thrive and pireserve a high oonditiou upon the scant, 
and dry, and apparently worthless weeds o£ steriie 
disbicts. Firet-rate riding mules are of more de- 
Ucate shape and quicker action, and differ as much 
ae the racehorse from their plebeian kin. Some are 
of priceless value. 

TravelUng for miles along the summit of these 
magnificent moanttuns, we surveyed from their in- 
land extremity a picturesque valley containing three 
hamlets called Las Cucuitaa; and thence our route 
lay amidst thriving plantations and respectable ha- 
bitations, to the town of Victoria. This town was 
open and undefended; the houses of the usual 



VALLEY OP ARAGUA. 195 

whiteness ; the streets broad and neat ; and the sur- 
rounding soil vying with the rest of the valley of 
Aragua in rich fertility. There I saw fields of 
wheat and oats ; far inferior, however, to their kind 
in Europe ; for the plants were diminutive, and the 
ears considerably smaller. 



o 2 



19a 



CHAP. xvn. 

JEASACIT. — HUMAKB TBBATMEIVT. — KOYXL VOBM OF VABOK. — - 
TAIJENOIA. — mCREABED MOUin? AIN BZFBIUBHCB. — MUUBS. — 
TDBXBT-BUZZABDS. — MIDiaaHT RBFLBCHOHB. — ABBITAI. AT 
PAO. 

Early the following morning we departed for Bfarof 
eojf, crossing the small river of Aragua^ from whidi 
the beautiful yallej is named, and passed over ele- 
vated liills to the town of San Mateo, near to which 
the chateau and lands of Bolivar are situated, and 
where the soil continued to exhibit the same fruitfbl- 
ness. The town of San Mateo was small and unde- 
serving of notice ; but the former country residence 
of Bolivar, built on an elevated site commanding the 
high road, and beyond it an extensive landscape, waa 
naturally an object of curiosity. It was in a state of 
dilapidation ; and the window of the saloon had, I 
was informed, served as an embrasure to a twent j- 
four-pounder gun, to check the advance of his ad- 
herents. I stood at that consecrated window, and 
looked out upon a broad expanse of fruitful land, 
once ministering to the treasury of its absent lord. 
The prospect was not the best selected in this region 
of general attractiveness to excite admiration ; but 



BOUTE TO MARACAY. 197 

the yield, as far as casual observation went, appeared 
inferior to none. 

We journeyed on through a hilly district to the 
town of Tumero, where a church of more than or- 
dinary external emblazonment proclaimed the earlier 
devotion of the community. Throughout these Alpine 
ranges the goitre was painfully discernible, especially 
amongst the female inhabitants, but in the vicinity 
of Tumero it was almost universally distinguishable. 
We were bound to Maracay, four leagues distant, 
and on our route beheld numerous plantations of the 
cocoa; small trees so sensitive and tender that, to 
insure their healthful growth, it was always neces- 
sary to defend them by an outline of loftier trees, to 
protect them from strong breezes. 

We arrived at Maracay late in the afternoon, and 
I was conducted to the house of the commandant, 
Don Cristoval Zurita. He, his wife and servants, 
came out, at our arrival, mei'ely to gratify their curi- 
osity ; but no sooner did they behold me, than mere 
idle motive gave place to intense pity. 

I have already related how the medical report at 
Caraccas had certified my unfitness to travel, and 
that, notwithstanding, I had been consigned to a 
journey disproportioned to my strength. I had strug- 
gled through the route solely, under providence, sup- 
ported by the unwearied attentions of my humane 

o 8 



198 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

companion, the soldier of the regiment of Castile, 
who, with untiring charity, had afforded me every 
care, and had displayed in my behalf the utmost 
solicitude. 

The heat of the sun, the frequent rugged character 
of our route, and the length of our journeys had 
nearly exhausted me. Bodily pain had tended to 
dim the interesting scenes through which I had 
passed, and at times I scarcely knew how to support 
my sinking frame. 

This day's march had fairly prostrated me^ and I 
arrived at Maracay in a state of fearful agony. I 
was, in short, so ill as with difficulty to sit erect 
upon the mule, or even to articulate. 

A communication from my escort induced the 
commandant to look attentively at me, and turning 
to his wife he exclaimed, "to what a condition is 
this unfortunate gentleman reduced. He cannot 
travel further in this state, we must take care of 
him." Instant orders were given to prepare a bed 
for me (in so warm a climate, a couch, a sheet, and 
pillow were sufficient), and I was carefully lifted 
from the mule, and gently conveyed to their own 
sitting room. A surgeon was sent for, my wounds 
were dressed, and the most benignant attentions 
were lavished upon me. I heard nothing but gentle 
accents ; words of kindness and encouragement flowed 



HUMANE TREATMENT. 199 

from every tongue, and, for a whole week, expe- 
rienced the tenderest nursing. All this, be it re- 
membered, was from the hands of an enemy reputed 
cruel and relentless. In good truth human charity, 
even in the midst of strife and bloodshed, is, by 
Almighty dispensation, widely prevalent. 

A message was despatched to the general-in-chief, 
Morillo, to account for my detention, and under this 
unlooked-for interposition I became rapidly convap* 
lescent Thus recruited, my onward progress was 
arranged, but so careful was my humane host to 
shield me from a relapse, that he directed a litter to 
be prepared, and relays of black bearers bore me on 
their shoulders to the city of Valencia, through the 
hamlet of San Joaquin, and by the margin of the 
lake of Valencia, an extensive body of water highly 
favourable to agricultural irrigation. From that 
place to Valencia there was a visible decrease in 
fertility, and the route assumed au arid and neglected 
aspect. 

Valencia was a vast irregular town, built without 
tasteful design, but containing many churches, and 
some fine buildings. It enjoyed an extensive trade, 
owing to its comparative contiguity to Puerto Cabello, 
from which it is twelve leagues distant. Here I 
quitted my litter, felt renovated and equal to mas- 
culine exertion, and after a repose of one day, I 

o 4 



200 PEACE, IVAE, AND ADVENTURE. 

•gain mounted a mule to traveree once more a desert 
mountiun range towards Pao, at that time the bead- 
guartera of General Morillo. 

We journeyed on through a district decreasing in 
Cultivation with every step, until we traversed plains 
of extensive pasturage, where herds were seen to be 
browsing upon a yield of scanty fodder. Thence 
passing the small town of Tocuito, a hamlet of some 
rural pretensions, we approached an upland of the 
Customary harrenness towards mountains of reputed 
difficulty ; first having to pass the plains of Carabobo, 
■iride, bleak, and then containing only three habi- 
tations. These plains have become remarkable by 
"two battles, the one fought ere tlie arrival of Morillo, 
and the other, which ended in the last route of the 
-Boyalista, and the final triumph of the Independeitts. 
Here we were warned against the assaults of ban- 
ditti, who were said to infest the mountains, and to 
render even life insecure. We joined some tra- 
vellers, to the mutual satisfaction of both parties, and, 
thus fortified by numbers, we made for the mountuna. 
We encountered more than ordinary inequalities, 
.until the passage of a clear stream, and an abrupt up- 
rise made us conscious of forthcoming labour. We 
had to cross La £,oma, a mountain of such elevation, 
and capricious geological structure aa to awaken 
anxiety in the minds of those best acquainted with 



PERILOUS MOUNTAIN PASSES. 201 

Alpine difficulties. I was subsequently infonned by 
General Morillo^ that La Loma surpassed, in rug- 
gedness and perilous formation, any mountain he had 
crossed in South America. 

Not only was the route tortuous, the path trea- 
cherous, and occasional patches of the ascent formi- 
dably steep, but we had to traverse narrow ledges, 
with frightful precipices right and left, and on such 
occasions to abstain from interference (as we were 
emphatically instructed) with the mules. 

I religiously followed the directions of the guide, 
and observed with pleasing astonishment the sin- 
gular caution and tact of the poor plodding animals, 
upon whose marvellous instinct our safety depended. 
At times the one I bestrode appeared to exhibit 
terror, but the cautious, tiny steps with which he 
threaded the most dangerous passes, impressed me 
with gratitude, as well as admiration, for his docile 
and intelligent adaptation to circumstances. 

One of the most remarkable features in the per- 
formance of these wonderful animals, inured to 
mountain obstacles, is their curious mode of sliding 
on their haunches down occasional paths too steep 
for headlong descent. In short their varied mode 
of action in such a region constitutes a natural phe- 
nomenon. 

We crowned La Loma, and looked around upon 



202 PEACE, WAB, AND ABYEKTUBB. 

uniyeroal sterility. Not a tree or ahmb^ or a lnrd» 
except the never-failing zamara, or torkey-bosnidy 
appeared in sight. All was desolation^ and the pn>- 
spectiye route tendered no promise of speedy aoielio* 
ration. 

The zamoroy or turkej-buzzard, is, in sixe, equal 
to that of a young turkej, which it in some dcf;iee 
resembles. The species in those r^ions appeiMd 
to be ubiquitous, for whether in citie?, towns^ or 
villages, the mountains, or on the plains, there yea 
meet with flocks of these voracious creatures. They 
are of brown colour, or rather dingy blade, and 
everywhere appear to disregard the approach of men. 
In thdr external form they resemble l3ie eagle^ to 
which family they undoubtedly belong, and although 
when resting they appear to be sluggish, and much 
inclined to repose, in their flight they invariably 
aspire, in the language of Moore, '* with their eyes on 
the sun." Their altitude on the wing far exceeds 
that of any bird I have beheld. 

They are everywhere the scavengers of their 
departments, and pounce upon refuse and oflTal 
wherever deposited. Amongst the barren mountains 
which I have described, they watched for the ex- 
hausted mule, and, (as I practically observed) in this 
travers6e, quickly alighted upon a casual carcass, in 
numbers, and with a rapacity never to be forgotten. 



MIDNIGHT REFLECTIONS. 203 

Happily the mule so assailed was not mine, for he 
bore me in safety. 

We continued our route until eight o'clock in the 
evening, the mountains of this narrow belt becoming 
gradually diminutive, until they became mere swell- 
ing hills. We halted at a solitary cottage, the only 
habitation we had seen since we had quitted the 
neighbourhood of Carabobo, and there we reposed 
for the night. 

It was arranged that we should start very early in 
the morning, to reach " the loyal town of Pao,** at 
that time the head-quarters of the royalist chief; and 
as I approached the locality that harboured that 
dreaded man, whose reputed deeds of rapine and 
bloodshed had filled civilised Europe with dismay, I 
experienced an acceleration of the solicitude that had 
so long consumed my peace. 

Here let me remark that no amount of courageous 
determination can countervail the pangs of slow and 
lingering incertitude. Pronounce the doom of death, 
and the sentence might be sternly met; but pro- 
tracted doubt, and nicely balanced contingencies of 
good or evil, inevitably undermine the strongest 
holds of resolution. So it was with me. Weeks of 
apprehension had rendered me timid and nervous, 
and each succeeding moment served to augment my 
perturbation. 



304 PEACE. WAS, AND ADVESTUKE. 

We halted for the night at this lone cottage, and, 
as naiial, the inaecte drove us to sleep in the open air. 
My compamoiia stept eoundly. They were not con- 
Bomed by the anzietieB that distracted me. I 
anatohed nunatee of fretful slumber, but unconquer* 
ible restleamieM Ba|)crTened, and I tossed, and 
tamed, and reflected until sleep entirely forsook my 
eydida. 

At about Dudiught I beoatne l»oad awmk% aail 
flat up to oontemfdate the nioon, hi^ in tbm hamytaa, 
vlai^ lighted with brilliaiioy the drooiqiaoeiit faiB^ 
' They yme bold, bat yet^ conpaied with dieir pn* 
CDXBoM, tame and snbdaed. The berb^gfl that 
ooveied them reouved a yellov lint fixttn the pab 
beams, and I eyed them with moornAil interest. 

From them I roused my contemplation to the orb 
that shed her Ught upon those grassy mounds. I 
asked myself, in deep dejection, "Is this my last 
look upon that moon? Shall I ever see her rise 
again 7" I was in the hands of despotic and re- 
Tengeful enemies, and I mentally asked that question, 
with a doubt as to an affirmative reply. Hy fate, eo 
soon to be decided, was too questionable to admit of 
serious reliance upon safety, and I felt a sort of 
mournful relief in speculative foreboding. 

In due time my associates were alert, the mules 
caparisoned, and we continued our route. Descend- 



ARRIVAL AT PAO. 205 

ing from the hills we entered a spacious plain inter- 
spersed with occasional thin wood^ and beheld horses 
and cattle grazing, indicative at least of peaceful in- 
dustry. 

Through groves of increasing density we ap- 
proached the town, and entered it at half past six in 
the morning. Although it had received the desig- 
nation of the " loyal town of Pao," it was nothing 
more than an extensive village, with a possible popu- 
lation of some 800 souls. 



206 



CHAP. XVIIL 

IITTERTIEW WITH THB BOTALI8T CHIEF. — UinX>OKEI>-FOB SN- 

FBANCmSEMENT GOOD ENTEBTAUOfENT. — AN ANaiX>-SPA2aSH 

OFFICER. — HIS SINGUULB HISTORT. — NATIYB CURIOSITT TO SEB 

AN ENGLISHMAN. — MEMOIB OF GENEBAL MOBILLO. BBTUBN TO 

THB COAST. — AN OLD COMBADE IN CAPTIVITT. —ARRIVAL AT 
LA GUATBA: THEBE EMBABK. 

We halted at the house of the General-in-chief 
Morillo^ and as our arrival was announced^ all the 
officers of his staff came forth to see me. The 
general^ an early riser^ was up and attired^ and I was 
forthwith conducted into his presence. 

It will not be difficult to divine the agitation of 
mind under which I confronted that celebrated man^ 
whose character was so differently chronicled by the 
contending parties. While the Patriots denounced 
him as a sanguinary fiend, the Royalists, and the na- 
tives subject to his rule, panegyrised his forbearance 
and humanity. Between the two reports I oscillated, 
and dread and hope alternately prevailed. The 
moment had however arrived when I was to test 
his claim, as far as I was personally concerned, to 
either character. 



GENERAL MORILLO. 207 

He rose at mj entrance, bowed politely, and 
handed me a chair. I breathed more freely and 
began to augur favourably. 

I saw before me a man, tall, and of large propor- 
tions, with dark hair and eyes, a full face, and fea- 
tures betokening some benevolence. He wore his 
morning costume, consisting of white pantaloons, 
jacket, and waistcoat, decked with silver braiding, 
and his Hessian boots were edged at the top with 
silver, and had silver tassels. He always dressed 
studiously. 

His first address to me was one of apology, that I 
should have been compelled to travel so far in ill 
health. He proceeded to inform me that many of 
his friends had written to him in my behalf, and had 
begged, as a personal satisfaction to themselves, that 
I should be treated with consideration. He told me 
he had carefully perused my papers and evidence, 
that he had formed a favourable opinion of me, and 
'^desired the pleasure of some conversation with 
me." With the utmost complacency he proceeded, 
" You have suffered much in this wild country ; stay, 
however, at my head-quarters and rest yourself. I 
shall be happy to see you with the officers of my 
staff at my table ; but in order to relieve your mind 
from all further anxiety, I announce to you that you 
are from this moment free, and after a time you may 



208 PEACE, WAS, AVD 

letam to tihe ocMut by winterer voute you wnj 

Here tben mt length wms mMpflraMe Bobee to 
1117 beorty and I knew tbat, under the proTidenfidl 
giudanee of heaven, I owed my defiTenmoe to % 
knowledge of the Spanish language. By its meant 
I had been able to convene with all the fimntinii- 
ariee through whose juriadiction I had panacd, and. 
an interest had thus been ezdted for my fiiti^ wlndh 
had so eflfeetively prevdled at head-quartersL 

When General Morillo had oonduded hia omm^ 
sation with me, and the hour of breakfaat was ap- 
proachingy he said, ^^ I shall have the pleasure to m- 
troduce you to a countryman of yours. CSaptain 
Albemoz (I write the name as it was pronounoed) hi 
an Englishman, and will be here direcUy." In due 
time Albemoz entered, and I received a formal in- 
troduction to a Spanish oflScer, whose tongue be- 
trayed his British origin. 

We sat down to a breakfast at once select and 
profuse ; even choice liqueurs abounded ; and all be- 
tokened a costly menage. My recent colloquy with 
the chief had unchained the bonds of apprehension 
by which I had been so long restrained; and the 
early morning air having whetted my appetite, I 
partook of this, to me princely, meal with more than 
ordinary relish. The general placed me on his right. 



AN ANGLO-SPANISH OFFICER. 209 

and frequently addressed me in terms of familiar 
playfulness. I felt myself to be a welcome guest 
at his board, and my spirits consequently rose buoy- 
antly, and to a degree commensurate with their 
recent depression. The breakfast ended, the party 
separated, and Albernoz having invited me to his 
abode (where he informed me a hammock was pro- 
vided for me), I left the general's quarters in com- 
pany with my new acquaintance, who quickly began 
to converse in the most fluent English, and was 
friendly and communicative. 

I was at a loss to reconcile his English idiom with 
his un-English name, and disclosed to him the dif- 
ficulty I experienced to construe these conflicting 
distinctions. He laughed at my embarrassment, and 
proceeded to inform me that his name was " Arbuth- 
not," but the Spaniards not finding it of easy pro- 
nunciation, he had been yclepped Albernoz, and was 
always so called. 

As we became more friendly, he informed me that 
he was of Scottish origin, and had been born of 
Protestant parents. He had had, however, a grand- 
mother who was a rigid Catholic, and she, conceiving 
a special interest in him as a child, had importuned 
his family to allow his visit to her. Her sectarian 
zeal led her to conceive an earnest desire to snatch 
the boy from the heresy of his parents, and she con- 

VOL. II. p 



210 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

Bequently sent him secretly to Spain, and concocted 
a tale to account for his absence. He was, as a boy, 
located in a convent, when the war of independence 
broke out, and Arbuthnot, disdaining the dronish 
profession for which he was designed, burned to take 
arms in the absorbing cause, and bursting from the 
restraints of a monastery, entered the army. He was 
a kind, good fellow, and we became fast friends. 
Before I left the country I heard of his advancenient 
to the rank of lieutenant-colonel. 

On one occasion, during my stay with General 
Morillo, I left the dinner table with Arbuthnot, and 
we were sauntering along, when on turning an angle 
of the hamlet, we suddenly heard a fusillade, and the 
abrupt turn disclosed the prostrate body of a Creole, 
just shot for some political offence. I received a 
severe shock from this unlooked-for incident, knowing 
full well how narrowly I had escaped a similar fate. 

I had passed some eight days at the head-quarters 
of General Morillo, dining and breakfasting at his 
well furnished board, until at length the time had 
arrived for my departure. I ate my last breakfast 
with him, and prepared to take leave, when utterance 
failed me, and I was compelled to ask Arbuthnot, in 
English, to express to the general my thanks for his 
generous treatment of me. I was really affected, 
and could not speak my gratitude. Arbuthnot com- 



LEAVE-TAKING. 211 

municated my sentiments to the general, who, looking 
at me complacently, exclaimed, ^^ se conoce siempre 
homhre de Men de su cara^* ("a man of worth is 
always recognised by his face"). He immediately 
desired Arbuthnot to ask me, *' why I had come out 
to that country ? What had the Spaniards done to 
excite my hostility?" I promptly answered "noth- 
ing," and proceeded to inform him that I had so 
earnestly read the travels of Cortes, UUoa, and 
Humboldt, that I had conceived an anxious desire to 
visit countries so celebrated, and had accordingly 
joined an expedition which promised to gratify such 
an aspiration. He appeared to be quite satisfied 
with my answer, and remarked ** it is very natural." 
Thus I parted from Morillo, whose passport con- 
ferred upon me the advantages and allowances of a 
Spanish captain. Don Pablo Morillo, at this time 
forty-eight years of age, was a man of plebeian origin, 
who at the outbreak of the Spanish war of indepen- 
dence was a Serjeant of marines. He rose, by merito- 
rious service, to the grade of Alferez, corresponding 
with that of ensign in the British army, and first distin- 
guished himself by organising a number of peasants, 
uniting them with a few soldiers, and leading them 
to the attack of a French force, which occupied Vigo 
and its vicinity. So irresistible was the assault of 

Morillo, that the French retreated precipitately, 

p 3 



212 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

closely pursued by the Spaniards, and were only 
saved from capture by a hasty rush across the bridge, 
which they partially burnt, and thus eluded their 
pursuers. 

Morillo invested the town, and sumnoioned the 
French force to surrender ; but he received an inti-» 
mation from the French commandant (who must 
have been reduced to extremities) that he was pre- 
cluded from a surrender by the absence of an officer 
of adequate rank to receive his capitulation. There- 
upon, Morillo assumed the dress of a Spanish lieu- 
tenant-colonel, and notified the readiness of ^^ Colonel 
Morillo " to treat with the French commander. By 
this stratagem, the enemy were induced to lay down 
their arms ; and the town and port of Vigo fell into 
the hands of the allies, at a time when the capture 
was deemed of great advantage to the cause. Mo- 
rillo reported to the Provisional Government the 
success of his operations, and the means whereby it 
had been achieved ; and he was not only highly eulo- 
gised for his tact and presence of mind, but autho- 
rised to retain permanently the mnk he had assumed. 

Thus advanced, and with a character for courage 
and promptitude, he at length was found commanding 
the Spanish brigade of troops attached to the division 
of the late Lord Hill, in the Peninsula ; and appears 
to have been the only Spanish commander acting in 



MEMOIB OF MOBILLO. 213 

concert with the British, who was disposed to Imitate 
a discipline which far outstripped that of his own 
nation. 

It was impossible subsequently to observe the re- 
giment of Valan^ay, serving with Morillo in South 
America, without perceiving how faithfully he had 
engrafted upon it the smartness and efficiency of our 
national tactics. The regiment of Valan9ay would 
compete in appearance and drill with the British 43rd 
Light Infantry, certainly the most perfect regiment 
I ever saw under arms. 

At the termination of the Peninsular campaign, 
when Spain had leisure to contemplate the pacifica- 
tion (to use her own language) of the revolted 
colonies. General Morillo was selected to command a 
force amounting (as he himself informed me) to 
14,000 men; and he sailed (as Arbuthnot affirmed) to 
test a mild and redeeming policy, which, I believe, 
was congenial with his dispQsition. 

It was, however, easier for the mother country 
thus late to decree such a change in her policy than 
to effect it. The horrors first introduced by the 
Spaniards had caused a frightful retaliation, and all 
the bad passions that could inflame the human mind 
had been infused into the contest, until no wild 
beasts could more thirst for blood than did the con- 
tending parties in this embittered strife. Language 

p 3 



214 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

m 

is quite unequal to describe the hatred and exaspera- 
tion that agitated both belligerents ; and Moiillo soon 
found himself powerless to assuage the all-prevailing 
ferocity. He was therefore compelled (according to 
Arbuthnot, who appeared, in discussing these sub- 
jects, to speak with candour and moderation) to carry- 
on the war upon the sanguinary principles which had 
so long prevailed. 

I can vouch, however, that the English merchants, 
the North Americans, and the most respectable 
natives living under the Spanish rule, concurred in 
ascribing to Morillo many excellent qualities. I have 
no doubt that his urbanity, and natural love of 
justice prevented the defection of vast numbers of 
the natives, and imparted comparative solidity to the 
Spanish rule, which the political circumstances of 
Europe rendered ultimately unavailing. 

For the operations resulting in the reduction of 
Carthagena, he was created Count of Carthagena, 
and his arras, engraved on the passport now in my 
possession (which authorised my return from Pao to 
La Guayra) contains in the foreground the broken 
bridge of Vigo, and, in perspective, the city of 
Carthagena. 

Morillo, having left the army under the command 
of General La Torre, returned to Spain before the 
termination of the struggle. He subsequently com- 



A FOREIGNER A RARITY. 215 

manded the Constltutioual army opposed to Fer- 
dinand, and to the French under the Duke 
D'AngouI^me in 1823, but was superseded upon 
some vague charge of supineness, attributable rather, 
as he and his adherents affirmed, to the exhaustion 
of the national treasury. He died in peaceful re- 
tirement, some few years afterwards. 

While at Pao, I had been the object of unlimited 
curiosity. Arbuthnot's quarters were besieged by 
inquisitive crowds, anxious to secure a sight of me. 
In those days of internal interdiction, an Englishman 
was a rara avis^ and I became a sight of strange 
wonderment. I went forth at bidding, conversed 
with groups of starers, and listened with amusement 
to the numerous comments upon my features and 
unusual accent. Shortly afterwards, on my progress 
to Caraccas, I entered a shop in Tocuito, and asked 
for some cigars. "Who are you?" inquired the 
vendor; "you neither dress nor speak as we do." 
"I am an Englishman," I replied. "An English- 
man!" exclaimed the bourgeois with astonishment, 
and hastening to a door opening upon a staircase, he 
shouted out the names of his wife and numerous 
children, and begged ^^porla misericordia de Dios^ 
that they would come down and see an Englishman. 
Down hastily ran some half-dozen of his family, and 
I underwent the ordeal of a rigid scrutiny. 

F i 



216 PEACE, WAK, AND ADVBNTUKE. 

Quitting the head-quarters of Morillo, I proceeded 
coastward under the guidance of a muleteer^ whose 
mule bore my baggage while I bestrode another 
mule, which proved a safe conductor over the terrible 
mountain. This I traversed in the company of a 
detachment of Spanish cavalry in safety. 

At Carabobo I passed the night at one of the 
three habitations on that vast plain, at the venta, a 
general store and house of entertainment combined, 
kept by the teniente de justiciar or justice of the 
peace for that district. I called freely for what I 
wanted, and in the morning demanded my bill. 
"You owe me nothing," said the host, with the 
happiest expression of countenance; *'you are a 
stranger in this country, an^ are welcome; when I 
go to your country, you will repay me." Let the 
cynic rail against mankind, it is astonishing how 
frequently I experienced human sympathy. 

Journeying onwards, I regained the town of 
Maracay, and once more became the guest of the 
humane commandant, from whose family I received 
a cordial welcome, and many congratulations upon 
my improved appearance since the possible doom of 
death had vanished from my apprehension. 

The vicinity of Maracay having enjoyed the 
prestige of superior fertility, even in that vale of 
unrivalled fruition, I resolved to make its circuit. 



A CAPTIVE FBIEND. 217 

Oranges^ lemons^ limes^ and aweet limes (the last^ to 
my taste, a flat and insipid fruit) abounded, and 
loaded the atmosphere with their fragrance; while 
contiguous lands teemed with produce. Here I 
observed numerous gardens enclosed with high walls, 
and recognised a style of European arrangement. 
The church, a noble edifice, was undergoing repair, 
and I was assured that the sight of unwonted in- 
ternal splendour would, in its sacred ministerial in- 
tegrity, have repaid the curiosity of any stranger. 

Bidding a lasting farewell to my benevolent friend, 
I travelled to Tumero, where I found a large body 
of troops assembled, and under their charge, as 
prisoners. Colonel Urslar (who had commanded the 
German Bifle Corps at Margarita, Barcelona, and 
Cumana, and whom I had last seen at Maturin), and 
a young English sub-lieutenant of Devereux's Le- 
gion. I was permitted to visit them, and held a long 
and interesting conversation with an old comrade in 
adversity, for whose fate I became deeply interested. 
I had heard of Urslar's capture at Pao, and had been 
questioned by General Morillo respecting him. The 
hostile deposition of some few deserters, late of his 
corps, had much indisposed the General towards 
him ; and as the prisoner was on an inland route, I 
trembled for his fate, of which, thereafter, I could 
gain no certain tidings. Urslar, who had served 



218 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

with the British armj in the German Legion, was 
loud in his denunciation of Patriot incapacity. I 
quitted these two captives in such hands, under the 
influence of dejection at their condition^ and thank- 
fulness for my own happier prospects. 

The treatment poor Urslar had received from the 
crew of the gun-boat that had captured him on the 
coast of Margarita, had been far different from mine. 
He had been stripped naked, bound in that condition 
to the boat, and exposed to the sun's rays. He was 
beaten and otherwise maltreated, consigned to prison 
at Cumana, and sent in irons to La Guayra. There 
his irons had been struck off, and he was thenceforth 
considerately treated, receiving an ample pecuniary 
allowance, and was invited to enter the [Royalist 
service. That proposition he at once rejected ; not, 
as he informed me, from any indisposition to castigate 
the Independents, but from a regard for his character 
in Europe. Under those circumstances I left Colonel 
Urslar a prisoner at Tumero. 

In this town I passed the night, by virtue of a 
billet, at a house occupied by six women, two aged 
and four younger ones, sisters, and the whole party 
was afflicted with the goitre. 

In journeying from Tumero to Caraccas, I was 
compelled to pass the night on the summit of the 
mountains of the Cucuisas. The frost was intense, 



EErLECTIONS ON THE CONTEST. 219 

and I was destitute of bed or covering ; so I suffered 
accordingly. In the morning I watched the rising 
sun with ecstasy ; and no sooner had he topped the 
mountains^ than I ran to welcome his rays^ and to 
receive the tribute of their warmth. 

On the 9th of March I reached the city of Ca- 
raccas, was received with distinction by the captain- 
general, who entertained me at dinner ; and after a 
stay of five days, I once more repaired to La Guayra. 

In this inland journey, through a fruitful and 
well-inhabited district, I had been struck with the 
devotion generally evinced by the natives to the 
Koyalist cause. General Morillo had assured me of 
his firm reliance upon them; and their fidelity 
seemed to me to spring from the more settled and 
reliable nature of the tenure. Many years had wit- 
nessed this fierce struggle, and the exactions con- 
sequent upon the occasional success and inroads of 
the Independents, who had failed to maintain their 
hold of the choicest provinces, had harassed and ex- 
hausted the native population. 

Danger to life and property on the resumption of 
the Royalist sway, operated doubtless to cool their 
ardour for a cause hitherto so ill sustained. Fear for 
personal safety, and dread of spoliation made them 
distrustful of nominal emancipators, while the pro- 
tracted occupation of the rich provinces by the 




2S0 PEACE, WAS] AND ADVENTUBB. 



Spaniards seemed to ofi^r a. substantiality which the 
other party might disturb, but could not ensure for 
their own rule. I therefore becnme impressed with 
the donuDant prospeots of the king's cause, and more 
particularly when I beheld undej- his banner troops 
&r superior in appearance and discipline to those of 
old Spain. Morillo's experience with the army of 
the Duke of Wellington had imbued Iiim with mili- 
tary Hotions fu more advanced than those of his 
countrymen genendly ; and hence the secret of the 
bearing of the troops under his command. 

IiTents, however) in tlie mother country, where 
Feidinsod's vile policy had been unravelled, and 
bad excited freah rebellion, did more to advance the 
liberaUng cause than the unnssisted prowess of the 
Patriots might have accomplished. The Boyalista 
had long been expecting reinforcements from Spain* 
until at length the wreck of all such hopes paralysed 
their exertions, and emboldened the efforts of their 
enemies. The gradual extinction of Spanish supre- 
macy ensued, and bit by bit the Patriots encroached, 
and ultimately triumphed. 

It became a singular feature in this waning contest 
to see Morillo and Bolivar, during the process of ne- 
gotiation, passing the night together in the same 
room ; and, as a result, they ultimately agreed to 
conduct the war upon civilised principles. 



BEVI8IT TO LA GUATBA, 221 

I remained at La Guayra nearly six weeks, re- 
ceiving during that time the pay, reduced as it was by 
the impoverished state of the exchequer, of a Spanish 
captain. I enjoyed by special invitation the hos- 
pitality of a merchant, Don Esteben Escobar; at 
whose house I daily breakfasted and dined, in com- 
pany with an English merchant named Boche. My 
principal associates were the British and American 
merchants, whom I have antecedently noticed ; and 
I had the privilege to attend the tertulias of a native 
family, where music formed the main attraction. 
The piano and guitar were the instruments in use, 
and some few native ladies sang with taste and 
sweetness. 

Thus recompensed for previous toil and danger, I 
freely threaded this uneven town, climbed the heights 
by the crumbling tortuous wall, leading to fortifica- 
tions shattered by the terrible earthquake of 1812; 
and I bathed daily in a mountain stream which flowed 
gently down a steep rocky course, presenting occa- 
sionally cascades which it was refreshing to stand under, 
and thus enjoy a luxurious natural shower-bath. 

Of course I did not neglect to visit my late prison ; 
and, while standing near that spot, I happily solved 
a problem which had greatly excited my curiosity. 
During my twelve days' incarceration, I had con- 
stantly heard, throughout each day, a shrill female 



222 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

voice shouting out ^^Juan deDios^^ the Spanish term 
for John the Baptist. So incessantly had this cry as- 
sailed my ear, that I became not a little anxious to 
learn who this personage could be. 

Fortunately for me, as I stood gazing at my quon- 
dam prison-house, I heard the well-known summons^ 
and beheld a little naked black boy, who ran with 
amazing agility to answer it. The elucidation of 
this mystery greatly amused me, and I eyed the 
Baptist's representative with marvel at the strange 
nomenclature, — ^here and elsewhere ransacked to suit 
the negro race. 

On the 23rd of April, 1820, I was suddenly in- 
formed that a British ship of war was at anchor in 
the bay, and that the captain had been seen to land 
and direct his steps to the commandant's house. 
With eager haste I sought him out, and solicited a 
passage to some West India island. 

A short colloquy sufficed to ensure his assent, 
and my passport having been promptly endorsed, I 
could only take a hasty leave of a friend or two, and 
within two hours' time I was once more afloat and 
under sail for the Danish island of St. Thomas, in 
His Majesty's ship Salisbury, of fifty guns, com* 
manded by Captain John Wilson. 



223 



CHAP. XIX. 

mS majesty's ship SALISBUBT. — HEB OFFICEBS — SCENES IN THE 
GUN-BOOIL — ST. THOMAS. — AN INTBODUCTION. — DEPBESSION. — 
OENEBOSITT OF A SPANIABD. — SAIL FBOM ST. THOMAS. — A FOB- 
TUNATB FBENCH SOLDIEB. — AZOBES — SHOAL OF WHALES. — 
QUABANTINE. — BOUBDEAUX. — OYEBLAND TO PABI8 AND BOU- 
LOGNE. — ABBIYAL IN ENGLAND. 

Arrived on board the Salisbury, I found the first 
lieutenant, Mr. Blackman (son of Sir George Black- 
man, Bart., who subsequently assumed the name of 
Harneage), to be an acquaintance whom I had often 
met at the house of the Rev. Dr. Grindlay, in London. 
He greeted me most kindly, and, learning my adven- 
tures, proffered any amount of service in his power. 
I accepted the loan of 10/., declining his handsome 
offer to endorse my bill upon England, because I 
was doubtful, after the passing of the Foreign En- 
listment Act, what might have been the fate of my 
half-pay, then my only resource. The Act, however, 
was not made retrospective, and my slender retire- 
ment was secure. 

Mr. Blackman was known to be a man of property, 
and his guaranty was respected in the islands visited 
by the Salisbury. Nothing, however, would have 



224 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

induced me to subject his generosity to so ill a re- 
quital as the possible dishonour of a bill which he 
had endorsed. 

I was entertained by the officers in the ward-room, 
free of expense, and I received the most considerate 
attention from them all. 

The mates and midshipmen often invited me into 
the gun-room to see, in their own facetious terms, 
** the future admirals of England ; ** and I became 
familiar with the incessant fun and frolic of that most 
humorous class. Boisterous mirth and endless roars 
of laughter prevailed amongst them, and the sedatest 
stoic roust have ^^ split his sides" in contemplating 
the scenes, and listening to the sallies in that gun- 
room. 

The Captain, John Wilson, who did not come up 
to their mark in suavity, was termed *^ John Wilson 
Croaker^^ John Wilson " Croker " then filling the 
post of Secretary to the Admiralty. The leader in 
all this pastime was a stout middy about twenty 
years of age, named Henry Saunders, whose coun- 
tenance beamed with arch humour, and displayed an 
everlasting grin. One day, as I descended, they were 
all seated round the table, when a wag shouted out, 
" Dispatches, of which the following is a copy, were 
received at the Admiralty from Vice-Admiral Sir 
Henry Saunders, G.C.B. " The sally produced a 



SCENES IN THE GUN-BOOM. 225 

universal roar^ and at that moment the sailor who 
waited upon this wild company entered^ bearing a 
huge dish of hot Irish stew. 

The joke, and its reception, tickled the fellow's 
fancy, and he laughed so immoderately as to en- 
danger at once his own perpendicular, and the dish 
he was carrying. Three er four middies shouted out 
"scaldings," and rushed from the table to save 
themselves. This made the fellow laugh the more, 
and down with awkward acceleration came the dish 
upoii the end of the table, endangered certainly, but 
not a drop of the gravy spilt. The " bravos " that 
succeeded this feat, and the peals of laughter that 
followed it were irresistibly comical, and, to add to it, 
there stood the tar, laughing as loud and as long as 
his young masters. That sailor by his ceaseless 
relish of jokes, and the eternal broad grin upon his 
countenance, seemed to me to have been appro- 
priately selected, from the whole family of mankind, 
for the post he filled. Never was a fellow more 
suited to a situation. 

I have ever since retained freshly in my memory 
the unspeakable drollery of the scenes I witnessed 
in that gun-room, and I can vouch, from practical 
experience, for the well-merited reputation of mid- 
shipmen for every species of fun and waggery. 

A circuitous cruise brought us in eight days to 
vox... II. Q 



226 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

the oncfiorEtge of Sc. Thomas, wbose spacious bay 
was equal to contain the tuvies of the world. As a 
free port^ it waa the resort of outcasts and adven- 
turers of all climes and coloura. Everj nefarious 
species of oojoamerce there found its representativea ; 
nd ahhoviglL there were many legitimate traders and 
ohaats, there was likewise as wide a sprinkling 
I s aoy spot in the known world could 

) 1 It upon three hills, and was com- 

« nf wood tenements, while the island 

T ank, harren, and devoid of water. 

I two towers pointed to the foregone 
a of th midahle buccaneeis. 
ig leave of my hospitable naval patrons, I 
landed at St. Thomas, waited upon the Danish go- 
vernor. Yon Scholten, and proceeded to deliver a 
letter of introduction to the firm of King and Co., 
the principal merchants of the island. I had been 
furnished with that letter at La Guayra, by a mer- 
chant named Harrison, who described the firm as hia 
" friends." Mr. King, the principal partner, perused 
my letter, looked dark and unutterable things, and, 
without a word of explanation, suddenly left me to 
digest his reception. Hardly conscious of the import 
of his bearing, I wiuted some minutes ; hut, finding 
I wae allowed to stand unnoticed, I took my de- 



A WELCOME MEETING. 227 

parture. I subsequently learned^ by accident^ that 
Mr. Harrison had failed in business, and had quitted 
St. Thomas very considerably in debt to King and 
Co., who resented his unauthorised freedom in in* 
truding his acquaintances upon them. When I 
learned that fact, I only regretted that Mr. King had 
not considerately apprized me of the circumstance : 
it would have spared my feelings, while it justified 
their repudiation of Harrison's introduction. 

This imtoward incident affected my spirits, and I 
paced the streets of St. Thomas under the pressure of 
mournful forebodings. I seemed to bei thus made 
fully sensible of my forlorn condition, and sauntered, 
brooding over prospective trials* In this dejected 
frame of mind I was suddenly accosted by name, and 
found myself addressed by a Spanish gentleman, Don 
Manuel Uhagon, whom I had sometimes met at the 
house of Don Esteben Escobar, in La Guayra. This 
young man had resided during three years in Eng- 
land, was much attached to the English, and had 
made himself especially acquainted with the feats of 
British naval heroes. He was a native of Bilboa, 
where his father and brothers were merchants of 
good repute ; Don Manuel had sailed from Biscay in 
one of his father's vessels, with a view to visit Ca- 
raccas, and was then on his return to Europe by 
whatever conveyance he might find. 

Q a 




836 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

In the moet friendly accenta he inquired where I 
WW going ? My reply was, to England, if I could 
get there; but by what means I was at a loss to 
divine. " You shall go with me by the packet," said 
(she was then at anchor in the harbour), but I 
. him the thing was impossible, for I had not 
ire withal to defray the passage. Witliout a 
lent'a hesitation he exclaimed, " Ob, never mind 
t, I will pay for you with pleasure ! " Struck 
a amazement at ao generous an offer, and fix>ai 
h a quarter (for that young man knew full well 
i I had borne arms against his own nation), I waa 
at a loss to express my gi'atcful sentiments. I 
however, stammer out my thanks, and Senor 
igon left me, with an appointment to meet again, 
while he went off, if possible, to secure our berths. 
He returned with the intelligence that not a berth 
was procurable, and forthwith set himself to seek out 
the first vessel bound to Europe. He found a Nor- 
w^;ian brig, " the Boroen," about to sail for Bordeaux^ 
harguned for a passage, and paid the requisite aiun 
for himself and for me. Here was an escape, as sin- 
gular as providential, frcun impending misery ; and 
again had the guiding baud of Heaven interposed to 
snatch me from unhappiness. 

I repaired with my preserver to a boarding-house* 
kept by one Levi, where abundant comfort was my 



LAND CEABS. — SHIPMATES. 229 

daily portion. We consumed the intervening time 
in exploring the immediate vicinity of the town, and 
in watching for and assailing land crabs. Thus I 
became cognisant of the habits and swift movements 
of these crustaceous animals. Their locality resembled 
a rabbit warren ; their holes were of the like descrip- 
tion, and their motions as cautious and rapid as those 
of the coney. 

On the 16th May, 1820, we sailed from St. Thomas 
in the ** Boroen." We found several fellow-passengers 
on boards and one a Frenchman named Daumergue^ 
whose history deserves to be recorded. He was a 
man of good appearance and address, about forty 
years of age, and was an enthusiastic Buonapartist. 
He had served, ultimately as a serjeant, in the French 
army, and had amassed a small sum of money, with 
which he had sailed to the Pacific. It had been his 
intention either to enter the patriot army, or to 
engage in commerce, as either prospect might appear 
encouraging. While at Buenos Ayres he sauntered 
into a room, where the cargo of a captured Spanish 
vessel was under sale by auction. There he casually 
bid for two cases of cotton prints, which were knocked 
down to him. Doubtful whether he had done right 
or wrong, he determined to open and thoroughly 
examine his purchase, ere he re-offered it for sale. 
This fortunate resolution repaid him by a singular 




230 PEACE, "WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

discovery. One of these p.tckageB contained a con- 

wderable hoard of diamonds, placed there doubtless 

for some contraband apeculation j and Daumergue, 

thia lucky adventure, became (for one in his 

tion) a wealthy man. He was returning to France, 

Seigning thenceforth to live upon the meana fortune 

so capriciously bestowed upon him. 

i have said that he was an enthusiastic Buonor- 

rtiat. During the voyage, an argument arose 

;ween him and me as to the comparative merits of 

sh and French chiefs ; when, speaking of Na- 

eon, he exclaimed with enthusiasm, " Monsieur, 

lis n'aviez pas, chez vous, nn homme digne de cirep 

eouliers!" 

He was a good fellow at heart ; and, ere we parted 

at Bordeaux, he gave us a champagne dinner, of a 

kind to impress us with his liberality. We reached 

the Gironde with but one very remarkable occurrence. 

On a bright afternoon in the neighbourhood of the 

Azores, we were startled by the sudden apparition of 

a countless multitude of whales. The blowing and 

spouting of these monsters, ahead, astern, and around 

us, created intense excitement. The shoal was so 

numerous as to defy computation ; and our Captain 

(Christopherson) a sailor from his boyhood, declared 

emphatically that he had never witnessed such a sight 

before. He was so thunderstruck that he exclaimed. 



QUARANTINE IN THE GABOUNE. 231 

" it is useless for us to affirm we have seen such a 
sight; we shall not be believed.'* Whales were 
known to frequent this part of the ocean ; and the 
North American whalers often took a circuitous 
course^ under the hope of there securing their first 
fish. 

We sailed up the Garoune to Pauliac, and there 
performed a quarantine of eighteen days. This te- 
dious imprisonment ended, we further sailed up to 
Bordeaux, where all the enticements of the beautiful 
city made us conscious of a European existence. 

There I staid ten days, the guest, at an hotel, of 
my generous Spanish friend, who calculated my ex- 
penses to England by an overland route, and supplied 
me with the requisite funds. I started by diligence 
for Paris. The route so well known was traversed 
and overcome by a tax upon our patience, which 
cannot in these days of railroad expedition be tested. 
We stopped in localities of capricious distance, and 
waited for hours without assignable reason. Here we 
arrived at eleven o'clock in the forenoon, and resumed 
our route at seven in the evening. Again we arrived 
at seven in the evening, and re-entered the vehicle 
at eleven o'clock at night. Thus were we frequently 
retarded and tantalized until we reached Orleans, 
where a halt of six hours, for the last time, enabled 
us to view the public objects of that interesting city. 

Q4 




At the inn an agent of the police came, both to in- 

ct ou passports, and to scan our personn. I shall 

■get that lynx-cjed functionary. He looked 

wnii- rom top to toe, and my coat (the eleemo- 

lary contribntion of a charitable friend after my 

1 South America), not fitting' according to 

)ved , seemed to fix nis suspicioua attention. 

as quite aware of my faulty attire, and was con- 

uently disturbed by his gaze. However I passed 

iter, and saw no more, and heard no more of my 

totor. 

3 journeyed from Orleans to Paris m a double 

d vehicle upon two wheels, of cart-like dimen- 

ns, and were from time to time disturbed by the 

tonducteur, who begged ua to shift and trim to pre- 

Berve the equilibrium of that strmge carriage. Theae 

arrangemeatfl, now happily obsolete, are calculated to 

excite surprise ; bat such was the accommodation of 

that day. 

We entered Paris by the Barrier de I'Enfer, at 
seven o'clock in the morning, and after looking about 
that far-famed capital, counting my money (now 
becoming nearly exhausted) at every step, I suddenly 
determined to make for the coast, and found moat 
conveniently a diligence about to start for Bou- 
logne and Calais. Arrived at the former place, I 
beheld agents inviting us to sail for Dover forthwith^ 



.r 



ONCE MORE IN ENGLAND. 233 

and there I alighted and embarked, and in a few 
hours landed at Dover. My cash was. BQf much re- 
duced that it needed no further counting, and cal- 
culating the cost of my bed (supper being out of the 
question), I expended a penny upon a biscuit, and 
retired to rest. 

In the morning I was compelled to consider 
breakfast an unnecessary meal, and pajring for my 
bed, I set off at seven in the morning, with half a 
crown and fourpence in my pocket. Again did a 
biscuit suffice me for break&st, and I strode away, it 
grand pasy for Chatham, where I had a brother in the 
victualling office of that port. After walking twenty 
miles, occasionally resting on a gate, and ruminating 
upon past adventures, I became footsore and wearied, 
and began to halt more frequently, and to sit longer 
in a reflective mood. At length I saw the well 
arranged chairs of a road-side house, and longed for 
rest and refreshment. I happened to be the only 
guest, and was waited upon by a tidy matron, who 
perceived my exhaustion and looked earnestly at me. 
I asked for a glass of ale, and drank it with avidity. 
^^ Ah I sir," she exclaimed, *^you are not accustomed 
to travel in this manner." There was a charity in 
her tone which invoked confidence, and in a few 
words I informed her of my circumstances. On 
hearing that my destination was Chatham, she re- 



234 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

commended " a returned post-chaise" (does anybody, 1 
now a daysj comprehend the convenience ?) and she :| 
if le they were constaDtly paasing. My solitary J 
.vjwn was all I had to offer, and consec|uently I 
demurred ; hut while I was involved in the abstruse j 
ition, a returning chaise came up, and I ven-"! 
a to inquire the cost of a lift to Chatham, 1 
ch place I learned the chaise was bound. Five 
il lings were demanded, and I turned away in 
spair. "What will you give?" asked the driver, 
my last remaining coin was named. The offer 
o9 accepted and in I jumped, and found myself 
ated by a gentleman who politely addressed me. 
What could I talk of but South America, and the 
host of incidents connected with my adventure ? It 
singularly chanced that my companion had a nephew, 
who had sailed from England with English's legion, 
and with whom I had been well acquainted. That 
discovery made us prompt friends, and when we 
arrived at a large inn, at which the driver designed 
to rest and refresh his horses, my companion put this 
most interesting question to me, " Will you do me 
the pleasure, air, to take tea witli me here F " The 
proposition exactly suited my condition, and gladly 
assenting, my lips once more smacked the flavour of 
an English cup of tea. 

This was the crowning instance of adventitious 



BELIEYED FBOM EMBABBAS8MENTS. 235 

aid which had so often in my chequered career 
ministered to my necessities when all appeared hope- 
less and unprofitable. It impressed me with the 
singular interposition which, under deep distress and 
divers circumstances, had snatched me from over- 
shadowing evil. 

In due time I arrived at the Chest Arms in 
Chatham, where my brother's name insured me a 
bed and every requisite attention. 

I depended upon my brother for a supply of cash ; 
but to my discomfort I learned that he was gone to 
London. A Samaritan of the same office tendered 
me a sufficient loan ; and, thus replenished, I repaired 
to town. 




J SUDSEQL'ENT 



porND thflf , until the very recent receipt of a letter 

m me, my reUt'iveB had conBiderotl me to bo lost. 
sy were thinking of putting on mourning for my 

longer doubted death, since by some chance tlicy 
bad heard of tho extremity to which sickness had 
reduced me, 1 was therefore received witfa tbfi 
affectionate warmth with which something analogous 
to resurrection had inspired them. 

I not only was petted by my family, but I found 
in the hands of the agents all my arrear of half-pay ; 
and I was consequently endowed with funds which 
made me comparatively rich. 

In the first instance I divided my time by vieits to 
provincial friends, and exhausted some weeks in an 
agreeable round of pleasure. Time crept oo, and 
with it the realities of life duly became more ob- 
vious, and my own exertions in some shape more im- 
perative. How or where I should seek advancement 
became questions of reflective moment, and I thought 



FUTURE PROSPECTS AND DESIGNS. 237 

and Big^d over schemes of promise only to be be- 
wildered and discouraged. 

Moreover, I found my frame to have received a 
shock which active exertion made hourly manifest ; 
and I could no longer conceal that the wear and tear 
of the tropics, and the excessive sufferings of my late 
course, had entailed physical consequences of a most 
depressing character. I became wofully attenuated^ 
strength and condition forsook me, and swelling of 
the legs and feet followed any unusual exercise. 
These symptoms affected my mind; I became dis- 
pirited, and despaired of my capacity to struggle with 
the world. 

On speaking one day with a friend in a tone of 
deep despondency, he employed various arguments to 
divert my melancholy, and proposed two courses for 
prompt adoption. First, he suggested that I should 
publish some narrative of my adventures, which he 
hopefully predicted would furnish me with funds; 
and, secondly, that I should ^' brush up my classics " 
and seek to enter the Church. 

To the first proposition I yielded a ready assent, 
and forthwith applied myself to the task. The 
second was i^ot rejected; but, as my means were 
scanty, I doubted its practicability. However, I 
snatched up elementary books, and applied myself 
slightly to their study. 



238 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

I did write a. narrative, which waa published by 
Arch and Co. of CornhiU, and by it I realised some 
forty pounds. It waa a crude and ill-written pro- 
duction, the first effort of a very young man, who 
remembered only hts wrongs, and wrote as a disap- 
pointed partisan. I waa not in the temper to take 
an enlarged view of the iggle ; and aovr, in the 
language of Churchill, J ■ curse the line where 
candour was foi^ot." 

Strange to say it was favourably reviewed, and 
eei'ved to introduce me to the late Rev. Thomas 
Kennell, an eminent scholar, and Christian Advocate 
to the University of Cambridge, who promised his 
exertions to induct me into the Church without the 
expense of a degree. 

I was a frequent visitor to my inestimable friend 
Viscountess Perceval, who not very long after my 
arrival in England became Countess of Kgmont. 
She retained all her noble qualities, and her heart 
was ever inclined to counsel and assist. Unhappily 
she became a martyr to neuralgia, which completely 
bereft her of comfort, and ultimately accelerated her 
death. In her, society lost one of the most bene- 
ficent, and the least selfish of those of her high atation. 
May her spirit rest in peace 1 

So soon as my mind became fully occupied, my 
health improved, and after a stay of three months in 



PEACEFUL OCCUPATIONS. 239 

Devonshire, I took Mr. BennelFs advice to ^' put my 
pride in my pocket," and made varied exertions to 
improve my resources. 

Some of my pursuits were quite ungenial to my 
taste, and at first I toiled with painful unwillingness ; 
but the more I applied the less reluctant I became ; 
and I cannot but regard that period of my life as 
really the most honourable of my whole career. 

I taught in various ways: I wrote gratuitously 
for two weekly newspapers, and for the " County 
Herald" for a weekly stipend. I made extensive 
translations of Spanish documents; and for those 
necessary to one lawsuit gained, by this means, 
within one year, a sum so large as to attest my in- 
defatigability. I was also engaged to translate into 
English a constitution designed for Mexico. I 
managed the transactions of a provident institution ; 
and, moreover, devoted every leisure moment, under 
a competent instructor, to Latin and Greek, with a 
view to ordination. I detail these circumstances be- 
cause, on retrospection, I deem them to have been 
creditable to my industry and perseverance, and 
worthy the imitation of young men of doubtful 
prospects. 

Mr. Rennell died prematurely at the precise period 
when I had hoped for his promised services. This 
proved a great discouragement to me ; but my exer- 




240 PEACE, WAE, AND ADVENTURE. 

tioQs were ijot relaxed, and I laboured with uni 
fined hope. 

Like many others, devoid of competent means, 
married ; but as I am not desirous to obtrude my 
ivate affairs upon public patience further than the]^j 
■y tend to unfold public objects, I shall iuerelj|| 
irve that my wife was veil educated, and 
acd some accomplishments. 
L still pursued the even tenor of my way, and; 
ider special counsel entered myself at St. John'v 
ege, Cambridge, when my future course becama 
larly diverted. 
1 was strongly advised to emigrate to Canada in. 
ily orders, where my sictjualntance with the Frend^ 
ingunge would, it was afl5rmed, make mc a welcome 
clergyman. On inquiry I found this step might be 
accomplished ; and, favoured by the late Archdeacon 
Pott with a letter to the Bishop's chaplain, I re- 
ceived, in March 1829, encoun^ement to present 
myself for examination in the ensuing month of 
October, 

Thus resolved, I was pursuing my studies; and 
one morning in particular was poring over Q-reek, 
when in walked the late Rev. John Ousby, at that 
time chaplain to the Middlesex House of Correction 
(with whom I had long been reading), and in jocular 
strain he sud, " I am come to drag you to priaon." 



. A PRISON IN PROSPECT. 241 

He proceeded hastily to inform me^ that having been 
casually present the day before in the court at Clerk- 
enwell^ he had there learned the determination of 
the ma^strates to insist upon the resignation of Mr. 
Vickery, the governor of the prison at Cold Bath 
Fields. So many had been the complaints of his 
management^ that at length his removal^ voluntary 
or compulsory^ appeared indispensable. 

Mr. Ousby detailed to me the sentiments expressed 
by Mr. Serjeant Pell (then an influential magistrate)^ 
who insisted that a great mistake had long been made 
in assigning such an important post to a mere police 
officer. He urged^ on the contrary, that the governor 
of such a prison should be a gentleman, and that it 
was desirable he should be a military or naval officer, 
who combined education with habits of business. 

This was the sum of Mr. Ousby's communication ; 
he was pleased, however, to add, that he thought I 
was the very man thus sketched out by Mr. Seijeant 
Pell. 

I listened to this strange proposition with ill-dis- 
guised aversion, and promptly observed that I knew 
nothing of prisons (I was not then aware that, con- 
sidering the prevailing mismanagement of that period, 
happy was he who did not), that I had no acquaint- 
ance with the magistrates, no influence to exert, and 

VOL. II. B 




PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

3quently no success to anticipate. My friend 
ied that he thought there would be a fair contest, 
ue decided by the qualifications of the candidates; 
d he only begged of me to consult my friends, and 
allow myself twenty-four hours for a decision. 
t I promised, and he took his departure. 

the couree of that v""- ''"y I sought the advice 
hree or four influentia itlemen, all of whom, 
r quiet reasoning, rccoru, oded me to make the 
nipt. I ascertained that r lilure would not prove 
' to my original design, b< ing there was nothing 
irthy in the espcrimcnt. 
sooner was it determinei; that I should venture 
this undertaking than, ci sting aside my hooks, 
canvassed with ceaseless energy. First, however, 
it was indispensable that I should collect the requi- 
site testimonials ; and the first person to whom my 
mind reverted was Colonel Sir Alexander Dickson, 
at that time Adjutant-General of the Royal Artillery, 
I consequently repaired to Woolwich to seek him 
out; and arriving about 11 o'clock a.h., I met him 
just emerging fi-om the arsenal, dressed in full uni- 
form, and wearing many orders. 

I had not seen him for years; still he iastantly 
knew me, uttered an exclamation of surprise, and ex- 
tending his hand he said, " This is a most extra- 
ordinary coincidence ; I sat up till two o'clock this 



EFFORTS AND CREDENTIALS. T 243 

morning to read your narrative^ and now here I meet 
you 1 " 

My errand was soon disclosed^ and Sir Alexander 
forthwith promised to send me by post, in his own 
words, "the best testimonial his pen could trace.'^ 
He did so ; and as it testified to services which I 
have recorded, and was a most eulogistic document, 
I felt no little pride that a itoan of Sir Alexander 
Dickson's eminence should have so flatteringly re-, 
corded his estimate of my deserts. 

I procured from every other available quarter the 
required credentials, and amassed sufficient to attest 
my fitness for the post I coveted. Traversing the 
length and breadth of the county, I visited every 
locality in which a magistrate resided, and, with one 
solitary exception, experienced the utmost courtesy. 
I found the circumstances of the contest to stand 
thus: — the police magistrates of that day clung to 
the privilege, heretofore conceded to them, of select- 
ing the required functionary, and adhered with ten- 
acity to a sort of prescriptive right. There were, 
even amongst that body, a few dissentients ; but the 
majority sternly resented any departure from a long 
recognised rule. 

The county magistrates, on the contrary, princi- 
pally at the instance of thq late honoured Samuel 
Hoare, had experience4 the unfitness of the class 

B 2 



^ 



244 PEACE, WAH, AND ADTENTUBE. 

hitherto patronised, and determuied to exert their 
influence to divert the choice, wnsequentlj, there 
sprung up a tacit comhination to Imct a, change. 

An understanding prevailed, that so soon as the 
most approved candidate should be determined upon, 
all individual partiality should give way, and the 
whole force be united to secure the success of the 
isvoured aspirant. That plan was acted upon, and 
proved Bucceaaful. 

My canvass progressed favourably, but I failed to 
extort a single promise. At length, all the candidates 
were warned to appear before a preliminarji' com- 
mittee, to be seen and questioned, and to have their 
testimonials examined. I look back upon that occa- 
sion with satisfaction (considering the period, and the 
change proposed), at the perfect kindliness with 
which the contending parties met. There were an- 
tagonists of various callings, — military, naval, men 
of law, a high constable, and the police officer. Plank, 
the selected of the then existing police " oflBces." 
All, however, exhibited the best temper, and nothing 
like angry rivalry prevailed. I had the good fortxme 
to be preferred by the active county magistrates, and 
thenceforth no doubt existed of my election. 

On the S3rd July, 1829, I was nominated to the 
post by a vast majority of votes, and the crowd 
assembled in the court and purlieus of Clerkenwell 



APPOINTED GOYEBKOB. 245 

Grejen exceeded anything I have ever since seen, so 
much was public interest excited by the contest. 

On the following day I first visited the prison as 
governor, and on the 27th was invested by the 
visiting magistrates with the requisite authority. 



m 8 



246 



CHAP. XXL 

THB PRISON. 

All the prisons of the country, at that period, were 
in a most disreputable condition. The efforts of 
Howard, and subsequently of Sir George Paul^ had 
proved unequal to command that sustaining iDterest 
in their amelioration which humanity and sound 
policy alike demanded. The Frys, the Qumeysif 
and the Hoares, the honoured philanthropists of the 
day, had failed to awaken a large amount of public 
sympathy in their labours, but yet they persevered* 
Still they were quite in the dark as to the wide 
extent of the mischief^ and had but crude notions of 
the remedies to be applied. 

An all-pervading notion then existed, that the 
grosser immoralities of prisons might be suppressed, 
but that a danger would attend the enforcement of 
very stringent regulations to curb and control the 
criminals of that day. Consequently, nothing seemed 
to be aimed at but the extinction of some of the 
most notorious iniquities of the existing system. 

Nor was such an opinion altogether without some 



THIEVES^ POLICE OFFICERS^ ETC. 247 

shadow of foundation^ for the malefactors of that 
period^ through the inefficiency of police regula- 
tions^ exhibited a brutality, daring, and lawlessness 
which can scarcely be over-charged. 

The police establishments (exclusive of the pre- 
siding magistrates and their clerks) were shamefully 
extortionate and corrupt. A limited number of 
functionaries constituted the force of each police 
^^ office." Inflated with a nominal reputation for 
astuteness, they moved slowly, and at a high cost to 
those who sought their services ; and were known to 
accomplish their cleverest feats by a secret combina- 
tion with the thieves themselves. Every move was 
determined by the amount of prospective reward; 
and the most trifling assistance entailed pecuniary 
sacrifice upon those already despoiled. 

I took possession, therefore, of the prison, when 
the whole machinery betokened the most appalling 
abuse ; and I found every thing around me stamped 
with iniquity and corruption. The best acquainted 
with the prison were utterly ignorant of the frightful 
extent of its demoralization. It is, indeed, melan- 
choly to reflect, that well paid public functionaries 
should have entered into so unhallowed a combination 
to enrich themselves, at the cost of all that was 
humane, or even remotely decent. The procurement 
of dishonest gains was tbe only rule, from the late 

B 4 



248 PSACS, WAB, Ain> ADTENTUBSU 

' governor downwards ; and, with the exception of 
one or two officers, too recently appointed to have 
learned the villanous arcana of the places all were 
engaged in a race of frightful enormity. 

The picture is hideous but curious, and not the 
least extraordinary of my experience in life has been 
derived from my early government of this prison : nor 
has it been the least consolation of my chequered 
career to contemplate the service I rendered to hu- 
manity by an energy in a righteous cause, which, I 
may affirm without egotism, won for me the full con- 
fidence and support of every magistrate privy to my 
exertions. 

First, however, let me show by example, how fero- 
cious and lawless the thieves of that day actually 
were. Two individuals, Mr. Edge of Essex Street, 
and Mr. Fuller of Bethnal Green, had severally 
prosecuted and convicted two delinquents, the one 
for burglary, the other for a street robbery from the 
person. For their exertions to defend their own 
property, and to aid public justice, they entailed upon 
themselves the resentment of associated gangs of 
thieves. 

In vain did they appeal for protection to the 
Home Office, or to Bow Street ; there was no or- 
ganization of police equal to affi)rd them security. 
Day and night were they the subjects of every 



BUIN THE RESULT OF PROSECUTION. 249 

species of attack and annoyance, which even en- 
dangered their lives ; and firom the lips of Mr. Fuller 
himself I received the relation of his frequent provi- 
dential escapes irom ruffianly assailants, who plotted 
his destruction. 

'^ I was," sud he, '^ a man of robust frame, but the 
persecution of those miscreants reduced me to what 
you now see me (he was fearfully attenuated). I 
was a thriving medical practitioner, but I was com- 
pelled to relinquish my home and to fly from the 
neighbourhood, and to sacrifice my prospects in order 
to save my life. The state could afford me no pro- 
tection, and at length, when I appeared at Bow 
Street, I was even assailed with insult, in conse- 
quence of the frequency of my appeals.'' 

Such was the lawless impunity with which ruf- 
fianism stalked abroad, until the late Sir Robert 
Peel, undismayed by ignorant clamour, established 
the new police force, and thus greatly fortified pub- 
lic security. 

I entered upon my duties, however, before this 
force was embodied, and consequently my first ac- 
quaintance with public depredators disclosed to me 
all the coarse brutaUty and desperation of a fraternity 
rendered more reckless by positive encouragement in 
the prisons of the country, and in this prison more 
particularly. 



I 



250 PEACE, WAK, AND ADVENTURE. 

It is impossible for the mind to conceive a spec* 
tacle more grosa and revolting than the internal eco- 
nomy of this polluted spot. No term can be suffici- 
ently emphatic to denounce the intensse and over- 
whelming wickcdncHs that teemed throughout it. 
It was in fact a sink of abomination. The great 
majority of the officers were a cunning, heartless, and 
extortionate erew, practising every species of dupli- 
<Mty and chicanery. They combined to uphold a 
system of profligacy, utterly regardless of aught but 
profit to themselves, and no amount of rascality 
seemed to sear their consciences. 

From one end of the prison to the other, a vast 
illicit commerce prevailed, at a rate of profit so ex- 
orbitant, as none but the most elastic cousciences 
could have devised and sustained. 

The law forbade every species of indulgence, and 
yet there was not one that was not easily purchase- 
able. The first question asked of a prisoner was, 
" had he money, or anything convertible into money ) 
or would any friend, if written to, advance him 
money;" and if the answer were aflSrmative, thei 
the game of spoliation commenced. In some in- 
stances, as much as seven or eight shillings in the 
pound went to the "turnkey," with a couple of 
shillings to the yardsman ; a prisoner who had pur- 
chased his appointment from the turnkey, at a cost of 



EXTORTION PRACTISED UPON PRISONERS. 251 

never less than five pounds^ and frequently for morei 
A fellow, called " the passage-man," would put in a 
claim for something also, and thus the prison novice 
would soon discover that he was in a place where feed 
were exorbitant, and charges multiplied. If he should 
be singularly untutored in the habits of such society, 
he would not long retain a vestige of his property i 
and, if a sense of injustice led him to complain, he 
was called ^^ a nose," and had to run the gauntlet of 
the whole yard, by passing through a double file of 
scoundrels, who, facing inwards, assailed him with 
short ropes or well knotted handkerchiefs. If, how* 
ever, he were a swell-mobsman, or a chap wh6 
promptly assimilated himself to the ways of nefarious 
society, he would by a sub-current of traffic (paying 
tribute to the turnkey) amass in a few months ad 
unusual per-centage upon the money he had invested^ 
either by the agency of usurious dealing, or by -un-» 
blushing rascality ; it mattered not which, provided 
only the opportunity should occur. 

The poor and friendless prisoner was a wretchedly 
oppressed man. He was kicked and buffeted, made 
to do any revolting work, dared not complain, and 
such was the amount of savage usage combined with 
starvation (for even his prison fare would sometimes 
be sacrificed to fraud or theft)^ that timely inter-^ 



352 peacb, vas, akd ad vkh t u rb. 

Tcotioo only Btred a few deepomng nretcbes from 
midde: for that ebockii^ fact I pledge mj vrord. 

Meanwhile, if a magislnite c&sually risited the 
prison rapid agoaU commnaicated the fact, and he 
woald walk throt^h something like outward order. 
The doors of cells, opening into eight yards, might 
be thrown wide open to exhibit clean basements 
ganushed with lime white, and little did tbe an- 
easpectii^ ju^ice divioe that almost every cell was 
hollowed out to constitute a hidden store, where to- 
bacco and pipes, tea and coffee, butter and cheese 
repoeed, safe from inquisitive observation; frequently 
beside bottles of wine and spirits, fish sauce, and 
varions strange luxuries. 

In the evening, when further intrusion was un- 
looked-for, smoking, and drinkiDg, and singing, the 
recital of thievish exploits, and every apeoiea of 
demoraliang conversation prevailed. The prisoners 
slept three in a cell, or in crowded rooms ; and no 
ooe, whose mind was previously undefiled, could 
Bust^ a pure or honest sentiment under a system 
80 frightfully corrupting. 

At times I succeeded in acquiring no . little 
curious information by gliding softly through the 
passages in the evening, and listening to the strange, 
and for the most part revolting, conversations of the 
several trios. 



AK HONEST CBIMIKAL. 253 

Upon one such occasion I found a young man of 
really honest principles combating against two har* 
dened scoundrels, for the superior advantages of in- 
tegrity. He was in the prison for theft, but declared 
that, but for a severe illness which had utterly reduced 
him, he would never have stolen. 

Of course his companions laughed at his scruples, 
and advocated general spoliation; when, in a tone of 
indignant remonstrance, the young man said, '^ surely 
you would not rob a poor countryman who might 
arrive in town with merely a few shillings in his 
pocket I" One of his companions, turning lazily in 
his crib, and yawning as he did so, exclaimed, '^By 
God Almighty, I'd rob my own father, if I could 
get a shilling by himi'' His fellow vagabond in- 
dulged in a loud laugh, and I left them for the 
night, noting the number of the celL 

On the following day I paraded the three, con- 
signed the two villains to as strict a discipline as I 
could then command, and learned with some interest 
the history of the young advocate for probity. 

He was a manufacturer of brooms and brushes, 
which he hawked when he had made them. He in- 
formed me that 1 5s. on his discharge would enable 
him to buy sufficient materials again to pursue his 
trade, and, on my recital of the facts, the visiting 
justices kindly presented him with that sum. A 



254 peac;b> 'wab^ ajscd aptekturb. 

few months afterwards I met him in Hatton Gar- 
den, bearing a pole well stocked with brooms and 
brushes, and with a grateful expression of thanks he 
declared himself to be a thriving and contented man. 

It was, however, impossible to make any human- 
ising progress until I had grappled with and oyer^ 
come that organised corruption which ministered so 
incalculably to the gains of the prison officers, Th^: 
hangers-on, also, the tradesmen's artizans and la*' 
bourers, by some defined intelligence aniongst th^ 
functionaries, exercised their traffic also. 

By singular accidents, from time to time, I became 
cognisant of the turnkey's conversations and "many 
of their contrivances, and was informed that the 
knowing wink of the eye, and the boastful assertion 
that they ** would show me what was what,** were 
constantly employed to notify their mastery over 
my designs. 

But here let me state that I had, in the first 
instance, enough to do to scan the devious passages 
of the building, and to glean some faint idea of the 
general routine. In that attempt I saw so much to 
shock and to disgust me, that by degrees I became 
alive to the necessity for some determinate course 
of action. But how to begin, or whence to seek aid 
or counsel, naturally puzzled me. I stood alone, a 



A PBISON ALLY. 265i 

novice In prison management, opposed by a clique of 
long-practised corruptionists. 

An accidental disclosure afforded me a most valu- 
able ally. A letter came under my eye from a 
prisoner to his mother^ written in a style which 
denoted not only the educated man, but one sq 
affectionate and disinterested in every sentiment he 
breathed, that I was curious to see the writer, and 
consequently sought him out. 

He bore the assumed name of '^ Thompson," waa 
aged, and exhibited strong marks of dissipation Ia 
his countenance. His real name was Mozley; he 
had been an officer in the Indian army, and had 
reduced himself to beggary by gaming, and ulti-t 
matcly to complete destitution by drink, the result 
of despair. StiU, however, he retained many of the 
refined feelings of the gentleman, while his devotion 
to his mother indicated an absence of selfishness 
quite marvellous in one so degraded. 

The sympathy I expressed for the fallen condition 
of that poor fellow touched his heart, and kindled 
gratitude towards me. I used daily to notice him 
amongst his degenerate group ; and every fresh de- 
velopment of my pity seemed to make him more 
visibly my debtor, until at length I intnisted him 
with my anxious determination to reform the prison. 
He promptly assented to aid me, and in the most 



PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

1U8 spirit communicated a multitude of facts, and 
scribed to me the characters of moat of the turn- 
TSi disclosing their extortionate schetnes, from 
cli he had himself Buffered. 

'.B this man's life would not have been safe in the 

a had the real nature of our conferences tran< 

I was compelled to proceed with great cau- 

Occasional interviews, and frequent corre- 

lence afforded me many valuable hints, which I 

aved by visits to the homes of prisoners, where, 

Mt instances, tact and kindness won the con- 

1 of their distressed wives and relatives. Thus 

they would confide to me the sums of money 

I pmd, and the sacrifices in various ways they 

hde in bribing the turnkeys to secure indul- 

geaces for the imprisoned. 

One poor woman assured me that she had parted 
with lier last farthing, and pawned her last remnant 
of clothing to satisfy these insatiate wretches, and in 
the agony of her reflections she exclaimed wildly, 
" Oh 1 what monsters those men are ; what hearts of 
atone tliey possess !" and she unfolded a tale of cruel 
and remorseless exaction tliat perfectly aroused my 
indignation. Happily I got a good case agiunst two 
of those harpies, and at the next meeting of the 
visiting justices they were expelled from the prison. 
This example, successfully effected by my extended 



MY ALLY IN DANGEB. 257 

inquiries, created much alarm, and caused suspicion 
to alight upon Thompson, my informant. Officers 
and prisoners alike denounced him, and his safety 
became doubtfuL Many days had not elapsed, ere 
one evening loud cries were heard from a room con* 
taining about thirty prisoners. I was in the garden, 
and heard them, and rushed with two or three officers, 
whom I summoned to my aid, in order to ascertain 
the cause. No sooner was the door open, than there 
stood Thompson dripping with perspiration, and 
shaking with terror. 

Missiles of various kinds had been hurled at him, 
and he felt alarmed for his life. Preconcert was 
manifest in this outrage ; for each assailant, as he 
suddenly started up and threw, instantly laid down, 
and no one of the offenders could be recognised. I 
never saw a creature so completely overcome by alarm 
as Thompson ; and the man was withdrawn from the 
room, actually more dead than alive. 

I now found it necessary to place Thompson in a 
post of safety, and I consequently sent him to the 
apprentice gallery, a part allotted to refractory ap- 
prentices, who were, for a limited period, consigned 
to separate cells. The turnkey in charge of that 
division of the prison, was one of the most corrupt of 
the whole body ; but I gave him so strict a charge of 
Thompson, and threatened such fearful retribution, 

VOL. II. 8 



258 PEACE, WAK, AND ADVENTHEE. 

should any injury befal him, that my ally became 
iafe. 

At that period, I regularly attended the Middlesex 
iessiona, and was sometimes, for days, engaged in 
he court, and consequently unable to visit the dif- 
;rent eompartnients of the prison, or to eee the whole 
r ray charge. 
Jpon one of those occasions, poor Thompson missed 
patron, and sighed over the lost opportunities of 
jnsultation. Writing, therefore, was his only re- 
3urce, and he composed an epistle of an unusually 
ching character. He never failed to describe, 
h his pen, all that he conceived would serve and 
terest me; and, amidst practical expositions, ho 
lostly contrived to interlard some respectful senti- 
mental! am. 

One day he commenced by deploring my daily 
absence, told me how afflicting it proved to him, and 
the pen of a " convicted felon " thus, in claesical 
terms, described hie emotion — " for I can truly say," 
continued the writer, " Vultus ubi tuus affulait cap- 
tivo, it dies gratior, et soles melius nitent." 

To that unhappy man I was mainly indebted for 
hints that served to stimulate my zeal, and facts that 
enabled me to grapple with unscrupulous scoundrels. 
It is no part of my design to trace his history ; suffice 
it to say, he was pardoned for his services, struggled 



STRANGE DISCOVERIES. — THREATS. 259 

on with ill-requited hopes of again rising to respect- 
ability, and sunk still deeper into the slough of crime 
and debasement, which early indiscretions had pre- 
pared for him. My last sight of that wretched man 
would indeed ^^ point a moral " too sternly appalling 
to need farther comment. 

Meanwhile my active scrutiny into the hidden 
transactions of the prison, and the discoveries I made, 
and the removals I effected, occasioned wide-spread 
consternation, and excited a spirit of revenge, both 
in the officers and prisoners, towards me. Ano- 
nymous letters, breathing vengeance, poured thickly 
in ; and although they did not deter me from my 
fixed purpose, they necessarily caused me both 
anxiety and alarm. 

I was admonished by a turnkey that my life was 
in danger, since the bitterest curses were vented on 
all sides, and every epithet was applied to me that 
rage and malice could suggest. Consequently I 
walked about with loaded pistols in my pocket by 
day, and slept with the same weapons beside me at 
night. I neither left the outer gate nor returned to 
it without a careful survey of the parties about it, 
and no precaution was wanting on my part to guard 
against sudden surprise or attack. 

My existence consequently, for some months, was 
one of painful solicitude ; but still I can with truth 

• s 



260 PEACE, WAB> AND ADYENTUBB. 

ayer, that my resolution rose in proportion to the 
difficoltiefl and dangers of my course, and I deter- 
nnned to reform the prison or perish in the efibrt. I 
was most effectively encouraged and supported bj 
the visiting committee; and was fortified hj thdr 
co-operation against many petty annoyanees frmn 
the supplanted police authorities, whose boetility, in 
some instances, caused me serious vexation and 
trouble. 

Circumstances at length constrained the retdgnatioo 
of the male chief warder, a functionary whose absence 
was, in every point of view, devoutly to be wished ; 
and a proposition of mine to seek out an active retired 
Serjeant of artillery to succeed to the vacant post, 
was hailed with satisfaction, and adopted by the 
committee. 

Thus authorised, I repaired to Woolwich, made 
known my errand to Sir Alexander Dickson, then 
Adjutant-General of the Royal Artillery, who, with 
his usual discernment, selected the very man best 
suited to the occasion. 

Pensioned Serjeant Sims presented to the visiting 
magistrates the most flattering testimonials from his 
distinguished patron and other officers, and the ac- 
ceptance of his services was prompt and unhesitating. 
Never were indefatigability and determination 
more suitably united than in Serjeant Sims ; and I 



PB0GBES3 OF PRISON BEFOBM. 261 

soon found that I had a coadjutor so zealous and 
fearless, that nothing could much longer resist our 
joint exertions in so good a cause. 

A different appropriation of the officers, and nu- 
merous suspensions and dismissals amongst them, — 
the removal of the corrupt "nurses" and ''yards- 
men," notwithstanding they had paid so exorbitantly 
for their posts, — unlimited attention to the com- 
plaints and statements of oppressed prisoners, and 
frequent stealthy and unlooked-for visits in places 
where we were least expected, — ^all tended to perplex 
the delinquent functionaries, and to impede their 
corrupt traffic 

Incessant cmeutes amongst the prisoners, and, on 
one occasion, a dangerous mutiny in a felon yard, 
consisting of at least 100 prisoners, told how greatly 
they were disposed to resent the encroachments upon 
their illicit privileges. 

Still the work of reform progressed, and in its 

pursuit we made, step by step, the most marvellous 

discoveries. There are now three several buildings ; 

at that time there stood but one, together with a 

large wooden shed for vagrants, which I found in 

so foul and fetid a condition, that the atmosphere 

within it was scarcely endurable. A portion of the 

large building was rudely blocked up to separate 

the males from the females; but the proximity of 

• s 



PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

3 sexea, eapeclally under such lax government, was 

lOst dangerous to the little remaining character the 

abliahment had to lose. However, as I have 

ted, we discovered, bit by bit, the most monstrous 

iscs, amongst which the following may be noted. 

it, the almost daily meeting between the narrow 

a roofa which then existi of many of the males 

!, who procured tl t criminal indulgence 

the corrupt connivance of certain turnkeys, male 

female, well paid for the concession. Mean- 

, any modest girl, or respectable woman, who 

nerded with that abandoned crew, was treated 

1 indignities too revolting to be lightly credited. 

londly, we found in all sorts of obscure recesses, 

i»rge stone bottles containing spirits of various kinds; 

huge jars of sugar, coffee, and even sweatmeats; 

scores of bottles but lately filled with wine, and a 

multitude of articles, denoting an extensive trade to 

indulge the monied prisoners, and to enrich the 

turnkeys. 

The cunning of Lucifer himself was scarcely 
adequate to detect some of the contrivances to defy 
official scrutiny ; and it was only by the " split '* of 
some prisoner, fiuthlese to his cloth, that we could 
learn the lacts. In addition to the hollowed base- 
ments of cells before described, theawalls of other 
cells would appear smooth and unsuspicions, but. 



ILLICIT PRACTICES. 263 

when properly instructed, you might count so many 
bricks from the right or left, and by methodically 
removing one or two at the part indicated, the hand 
might dip into a secret nest, and light upon a rich 
assortment of choice fluids and varied delicacies. 
Thirdly, the swell thieves from without would write 
complimentary notes to certain turnkeys within, 
and beg their acceptance of some accompanying 
present. We actually intercepted a small hamper of 
choice apples from Mr. depredator A. to Mr. turnkey 
D. (the initials are correctly given) with a note, 
neatly sealed, to announce the donor. While the 
turnkey from within would step up to the swell thief 
from without, shake him cordially by the hand, 
inquire kindly for what term he was then committed, 
and promise him all possible attention during his 
stay. Fourthly, the sub-traffic of the prisoners who 
had successfully bid for the posts of nurses or yards- 
men, was of a very curious description. The search 
of Mr. Sims and myself one evening, which lasted 
(to the intense alarm of our wives, whom we found 
weeping at the porch) from seven till eleven, im- 
parted to us the strangest information. In the beds 
and paillasses of the infirmary (there were then no 
sick) we found small papers of tobacco with the 
charge (most exorbitant) marked upon each ; writing 
paper cut into the smallest saleable sheets, with pens, 

8 4 



264 PEACE, WAE, AND ADVENTURE. 

pencils, &c. ready for delivery ; tlie money realized 
by the trafBc carefully stowed nway ; numeroiu 
articles, tlie fruit of barter, conaieting of silk band- 
kerciiiefs, gloves, stockings, and even childreD's shoes 
sntl women's petticoats. Any thing, in short, con- 
Tertible into money was received for a morsel of 
tobacco, or some trifle equally valueless- 

Moreover, we captured the trader's ledger, which 
contained numerous accounts, both settled and un- 
paid ; and we found letters and memoranda which 
threw much light upon the passing transactions of 
the prison. 

Of course all these researches and discloaurea 
tended to diaturb the equanimity of the prison con- 
trabandists, and we vainly hoped we had completely 
broken up their commerce. The gains, however, of 
all this chicane were too great to be lightly aban^ 
doncd, and consequently I found a fresh web oi 
contrivance woven as fast as the last was rent asunder. 

I was greatly baffled by the bold front and 
blushing hardihood of most of the turnkeys when 
taxed with any delinquency. The nioet solemn as- 
severations were employed, the most holy names in- 
voked, and frightful imprecations were hazarded. 
When I first heard men declare, " as God was their 
Saviour and Judge, might they never see the 
kingdom of Heaven," and even employ terms still 



^ 



OATHS AND ASSEYEBATIONS. 265 

more appalling^ I could not conceive it possible that 
they could be freely uttered to cloak falsehood and 
knavery. Consequently I was greatly puzzled to 
arrive at a right conclusion. 

A casual occurrence enlightened me on this point 
also. 

It is a singular coincidence in my history that, on 
the occasion of my first introduction to the family of 
my wife, I casually mentioned the fact that I had 
been offered a magistrate's order to visit the prison 
at Cold Bath Fields. A strong desire was expressed 
to inspect a prison, and an appointment was conse- 
quently made with the family for that object, and 
Mrs. Chesterton and I visited the prison in company. 
Upon that occasion we were shown over by a turn- 
key of very remarkable appearance, to whom I, ig- 
norant of any prohibitory rule, gave half-a-crown, 
and a gentleman of our party gave him half-a-crown 
also, in my sight. 

On my appointment to be governor I recognised 
the man at once, and soon learned that he was deeply 
steeped in all the iniquity of the place. He, however, 
had preserved no recollection of me, when I received 

one day the complaint of the chaplain, that B 

(the turnkey in question) had addressed a most im- 
pudent remonstrance to a party for the little they had 
offered him for his trouble in showing them through 




PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 



be building. Aa all emolument of that description 
wns forbidden, I called him sternly to account. How- 
ever, he not only denied the charge, but averred that 
E had received nothing from the party whatever: 
' he knew hia duty too well." Not satisfied with 
that disavowal, he went bo far as to employ a choice 
isortment of oaths, auch aa I have already detailed, 
I the gratuitous assertion, that " never, since he had 
leen on the establishment, had he ever received ooe 
rthing from man, woman, or child, for showing 
m over the prison, " 

A new light instantly burst upon me ; for, as I 
yself bad given the man money, and saw another 
Jo the same thing, I became suddenly aware that 
either unblushing falsehood, fortified by unscrupulous 
oaths, or an imaginary trust in mental reservation, 
were employed to mystify and confound my judg- 
ment. I, of course, exposed the fellow's falsehood, 
reproved him by the exposure of my own experience, 
find set a close watch upon the scoundrel from that 
time forth. Ample grounds were soon laid to warrant 
his dismissal. 

This proved to me a most opportune discovery, and 
relieved me from grave perplexity. Thenceforth I 
promptly silenced those unprincipled asseverations, 
and pursued my inquiries unswayed by them. 

Amongst the many abuses of the place was one ao 



IMPOLITIC BOUNTY. 267 

absurdly Impolitic, that I was lost in amazement to 
contemplate so mischievous a practice. The philan* 
thropists of that day had advocated a decent supply 
of clothing to the naked and distressed on their dis- 
charge from prison : a recommendation which, exer- 
cised with judgment, was both desirable and humane. 
In this however, as in other matters, salutary dis- 
cretion was abandoned, and wanton waste encouraged. 

The habitues of the prison, after a committal of 
seven or fourteen days, were, as a matter of course, 
furnished with good shoes, stockings, and other 
garments; and, notwithstanding their frequent re- 
commitment (destitute of the benefits so recently 
lavished upon them), would, in most instances, again 
emerge with the same prodigal extension of unmerited 
gifts, while, in point of fact, the pawnbrokers and 
low slopsellers were the real recipients of such mis- 
placed bounty. 

I perceived, at once, the surpassing absurdity of 
such a practice, which constituted a direct encourage- 
ment to the perpetration of petty ofiences. My ex- 
postulation was met by serio-comic remarks (coming 
from such stewards) upon the cruelty of consigning 
poor wretches to the streets without a prospect of 
reformation^ owing to their destitute condition : all 
of which was pathetically true^ if such aids had been 
prudently extended to the poor but hopeful, and not 



268 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

indiscriminately conferred upon the vicious and 
hopeless. 

I promptly abolished that custom, without^ I trust, 
violating the precepts of Christian benevolence. And 
as it was also discovered that many an abandoned 
street-walker would deliberately smash a pane of 
glass, whenever she desired her linen to be nicely 
washed and carefully got up, it was ordered by the 
visiting justices that none should enjoy that advan- 
tage unless committed for a period exceeding one 
month. Thus another incentive to wanton trespass 
was abolished. 

Again, the prison officers helped themselves freely 
to the prison clothing, which, altered, fitted, and 
embellished by choice workmen found in the esta- 
blishment, would hardly be recognised as part of the 
public stock. 

Moreover, the prison dress was conferred upon 
many, and withheld from others during their impri- 
sonment, upon no intelligible principle. Some did 
not wish to wear it, and were exempt. Others wore 
it partially, as suited a capricious taste, and the in- 
mates, consequently, presented a heterogeneous ap- 
pearance ; while in the absence of a fixed and salutary 
rule upon a very important point of prison manao-e- 
ment, itch and vermin largely abounded. 

Again ; the most wilful and wanton destruction of 



BELATIYE EXPENDITUBS* 269 

the prison bedding and clothing prevailed^ to the great 
detriment of the county. There had been, in fact, 
an utter lack of discipline throughout, and it seemed 
to be nobody's business to enforce any wholesome 
rule. All was speculation, waste, and destruction. 
I instituted a proper inspection of bedding, &c., 
thoroughly clothed the whole of the inmates, and in- 
terdicted the use, by any officer, of the prison pro- 
perty. My progress in all these reforms was weekly *^ 
reported, and nothing could be more cordial and 
effective than the support and approval which I 
received from the visiting magistrates. 

It is curious to take a comparative glance at the 
economical results of all these wholesome measures ; 
and I cite, with no trifling satisfaction, the numbers 
of prisoners for two terms of seven years, with the 
contrast in the expenditure for clothing and bedding 
only : — 

From the 30th September, 1822, to Michaelmas, 
1829, formed a period of seven years under the old 
regime, and from 30th September, 1829, to Michael- 
mas, 1836, the second period under the reformed 
system. 

Number of Total cost of Bedding 
Prisoners. and Clothing. 

First period of seven years 35,550 £11,116 9 4 

Second period of seven years 66,771 9,871 19 9 

showing a diminished expenditure of 1,244/. 9s. Td. 
and a comparative saving of 10,507/. 5«. 4(/. 




S70 



PEACE, WAB, AND ASTKHTC 



la order to ezbibit the orTing nature • 
oDder the former regime, and in additit 
markmble fact, that scarcely half the pi 
wore the prison dresa, it must also be 
within the second period, vix. in the y 
the cholera raged extenuvely in the 
■trating bundreds, .and oausing feaifu 
Under medical advice, all the infected 
clothing waa destroyed by fire, and a g 
a( property was the consequence. Notn 
however, this unlooked-for catastrophe, a 
common sense economy secured this Ii 
even under the ciioumstanoe of the oontrt 
in the aggr^^te, slightly agtunst the h 
It would be tedious to enumerate the 
abuses of this long neglected sink of inii 
indeed, exhibiting the most refined cunni 
trivance; but it may suffice, with the abo 
to say, " ex uno disce omnea." 

There was one feature in the gent 
which much surprised me. While the inm 
to evil influences, and the majority 
oflScial interposition, shunned com muni 
me, and mode a stand for a vile presi 
ministration, they submitted to a aeries ( 
of the least tolerable nature. Prisoni 
with a sort of conventional importance, b 



PBISON BEAVOS. 271 

they had paid for their posts^ exercised a pernicious 
sway in their yards or divisions^ and enforced ty- 
rannical rules to an extent scarcely credible at this 
time. A fellow with a loud voice, and brazen face, 
would lord it over the subordinate clique with the 
most aggressive insolence. No man dare approach 
the fire, indulge in the luxury of a cup of hot waterj 
or enjoy the most contemptible privilege without the 
permission of the yardsman, or the exaction of a fee 
of some sort as his perquisite. 

Of all the domineering functionaries of that school 
a bully named B (sentenced to one year's im- 
prisonment for fraud) was the most conspicuous. 
He was a clever, plausible scoundrel, who would lie 
with imperturbable serenity, and demur and con- 
tend, whenever assailed, with a cool impudence and 
well feigned assumption of innocence that few could 
imitate. He was one of those semi-educated bravos 
with whom no single-minded novice could compete. 
He disputed with me every step, inch by inch, 
swore by emphatic oaths that would pose a purist, 
and ultimately (as his time drew short) menaced me 
mc with prospective law in every form. 

Nothing could exceed the arbitrary sway which 
that fellow exercised over the inmates of his yard 
(then termed the 4tli outer), and with such pro« 
voking success, that I essayed in vain to shake his 



» 



272 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

influence aniongdt the prisoners. He had been trieil 
and sentenced in the court of King's Bench, and 
craftily assumed & dignity, baaed upon the superior 
tribunal that had condemned him (of which he 
boasted incessantly) ; and, in spite of my efforts, he 
all but triumphed over me by an assumption of 
superiority and importance which really imposed 
npou the ignorant by whom he was surrounded. 

At length lie was discharged, and departed for the 
west of England, whence be played me off a trick 
which was truly characteristic of the man. I one 
day received a heavy box from Falmouth marked 
" game," for which 1 paid as " carriage " 4s. 6d. 
I was astonished at its weight, but opened it care- 
fully in the presence of my wife, and found it to 
contain stones carefully wrapped in Iiay, together 
with half a dozen dead cbaffincbes, and a note in the 
well known writing of my late tormentor, lioplug I 
"should enjoy the roast," 

By degrees we enforced all the order practicable 
under circumstances so unfavourable to discipline, 
viz. crowded wards, with the free privilege of speech 
amongst abandoned crowds ; the necessity, from lack 
of accommodation, to sleep three in a cell, or in 
rooms ; the absence of any employment for those not 
sentenced to hard labour, and the retention of some 



"I 



PRISON CORRUPTION DEFEATED. 273 

of the old officers, who were disposed to thwart all 
attempts at Improvement. 

Still we believed that we had annihilated the 
ancient corrupt traffic, when we suddenly discovered 
a new plan of action, which, to a great extent, had 
succeeded. "They are too much for me," said the 
chief warder; "there Is tobacco throughout the prison, 
and I hear of many other things which I cannot 
detect. I am at a loss to conceive how these things 
are got in ; but the turnkeys are so cunning, that I 
am fairly beaten by them." 

A cautious investigation into circumstances as- 
sured me that the chief warder's relation was the 
truth ; and, thus convinced, I resolved to adopt the 
only practicable course In such an emergency. 

I drew up a report for the consideration of the 
visiting justices, representing the impossibility of re- 
forming abuses without the aid of faithful and will- 
ing subordinates; I showed how difficult it was, 
under a dishonest combination, to obtain proofs of in- 
dividual guilt, and concluded by denouncing six 
turnkeys of the old school as men in whom I had not 
the remotest confidence, but who constituted an im- 
pediment to all reform and improvement. 

With a copy of that document I waited upon the 
chairman of the committee, the late Mr. Samuel 
Hoare ; explained to him the necessity for so decided 

yOL. II. T 




PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

a stop ; and had the Batiafaction to hear his approval 
of the course I proposed. At the ensuing meeting 
of the committee the report ivaa read, and the recora- 
mendatioos were sanctioned and adopted, and a noti- 
fication was made in January, 1830, to those six 
turnkeys, that the county deaircd to dis^peDse with 
their further services. 

From that time forth there waa a perfect extino- 
tion of the illicit traffic which had so long prevailed, 
and we were left at liberty gradually to work out 
improvements which the extension of the building, 

1 other salutary measures greatly facilitated. 

Still, pending unlimited communiciition amongst 
prisoners, there was an everlasting stimulus to tur- 
bulence. The mluchievoua were always urging on 
the rash and thoughtless to some excess, and thus 
entailing upon them, necessarily, punishment. The 
struggle therefore between rebellion and authority, 
although invariably terminating in favour of the 
latter, was productive of serious embarrassment. 
Indeed, from my recollection of all the turmoil, 
demoralisation, and revolting exhibitions at that time 
existing (especially amongst the most vicious of the 
female prisoners), I contemplate with perfect horror 
the condition of any prison where unrestricted inter- 
course prevails. 

Considering the period, however, and the lights by 
which we were then guided, this prison ] 



-^ 



NEW PROSPECTS DAWN. 275 

favourably^ attracted much attention^ and extorted 
many encomiums^ until the report of the late Mr. 
Crawford, upon the prisons of the United States, 
guided public interest on such subjects into an en- 
tirely new channel. 

Mr. Crawford, who was the intimate friend of the 
late Mr. Samuel Hoare^ had no sooner concluded his 
able report, than he travelled into the north of 
England^ and, during his excursion, visited certain of 
the prisons. He returned to London much im- 
pressed with the condition of two ; viz. that of Wake- 
field in Yorkshire, and the Bridewell of Glasgow. 

At the former the associated silent system had 
been recently introduced upon the American model 
under the auspices of a zealous magistrate, who was 
ably seconded by Mr. Shepherd the governor. At the 
latter the separate system, accompanied by active 
and varied industry, was in partial operation, under 
the late Mr. Brebner, one of the most competent 
managers of such an establishment the world ever 
saw. 

The practical eye of Mr. Crawford soon discerned 
the value of these improvements, and he suggested 
to Mr. Hoare that I should be sent down first to 
Wakefield, and thence to Glasgow, to see these two 
systems in operation, and report upon the practica- 
bility of applying either to the prison of Cold Bath 

T 8 




276 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTUHE. 

Fields. Tte sii^estion of Mr. Crawford was ctmt- 
municatcd to tlie visiting justices by Mr. Hoare, who 
strongly advised its adoption ; and consequently, in 
the month of December, 1834, I set off thus com- 
mtssioaed. 

Properly accredited to the authorities of both 
localities, I received the most serviceable ntteution^, 
raa freely permitted lo make close observations, and 
nad access to every information needful for my pur- 
pose. I soon perceived that our lack of cells pre- 
cluded any trial of the separate discipline, but tliat a 
few practicable alterations would enable us to enforce 
the silent system. 

On my return I made a minute report, which was 
laid before the Court, and eubsequently published, 
in extenso, in some of the daily newspapers ; and at 
length the fullest authority was conceded, and our ne- 
cessarj- arrangements perfected ; and on the 29th De- 
cember, 1834, the number of 914 prisoners were 
suddenly apprised that all intercommunication by 
word, gesture, or sign was prohibited ; and without 
any approach to overt opposition, the silent ayatcm 
became the rule of the prison. 

In the first instance it was effected by the em- 
ployment of monitors, selected by their conduct and 
intelligence from amongst the prisoners. That prac- 
tice is now abolished by law, and the change is un- 
questionably both just and politic; hut I cannot 



BENEFITS OF THE SILENT SYSTEM. 277 

refrain from bearing mj testimony to the zealous 
and efficient exertions of many prisoners elevated to 
exercise authority, who rendered good service under 
the conviction of the evils they were assisting to 
eradicate. 

Those who had watched and deplored the former 
system could not but regard the change with heart- 
felt satisfaction. There was now a real protection 
to morals, and it no longer became the reproach of 
authority that the comparatively innocent were con- 
signed to certain demoralisation and ruin. 

For eighteen years has this system been main- 
tained in this prison with unswerving strictness. It 
has withstood the attacks of the casuist, the pre- 
judiced, and the dogmatical. Indeed, dogmatism is 
never more intolerant than when stimulated by some 
vain theory in favour of one darling but exclusive 
scheme. The dose observations of practical men are 
contemned, and the dreaminess of fanatical imagina- 
tion heaps obloquy upon experience. 

It is not my purpose to refute the sophistries of 
numerous commentators upon prisons; but I un- 
hesitatingly avow my conviction, that the silent sys- 
tem, properly administered, is calculated to effect as 
much good as, by any penal process, we can hope to 
realise. 

To the magistrates of this county, many of whom 

VOL. u. *T 9 



PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTnRB. 

hkTS devoted so maoh time and ability to the extea- 

mm and improTement of tlie priwni, and have evinced 

1 interest in its iadtutrial oocapation^ — and to the 

xnmt;' at Urge, whioh has contributed in the course 

of years ao many thousands to extend its utility, — 
must be a gratification to receive the eusuing testi- 
onial in its favour. 

W. Y , Hged about 50 years, underwent two 

jars' imprisonment in this House of Correction for 
;gery. He had, until his unhappy convlctionj been 
the position of a gentleman, and had been a pro- 
eor of mathematics in a public institution. It 
therefore needlesa to eay he wag a man of superior 
ellect. 

On the day preceding his release, after so long an 
incarceration, I b^ged he would give me his candid 
opinion of our discipline. I besought him to express 
his real sentiments, quite regardless of any other 
consideration whatever. His answer, given with 
willing alacrity, was as follows: — "I cannot speak 
otherwise than favourably; for I do not believe it 
possible for any human being to go through the dis- 
cipline and teaching of this prison without being bet- 
tered by them ; " and he emphatically added, " If 
there is any good in a man, it must be brought out I " 

As I am convinced W. Y spoke hia honest 

aeotimenta, what an incentive to perseverance does 
not such testimony create ? 



279 



CHAP. XXIL 

SUPREME DBPBAVITT. — STRANGE INDIVIDUAL CONTRAST. — ABSORB- 
ING INFLUENCE OF DRINK. — ROMANTIC CRIMINALS. — SPECIMENS 
OF SURPASSING RUFFIANISM. — INGENIOUS FLAN OF ROBBERY. — 
A WEALTHY SHOP-LIFTBR. — REMARKABLE FRAUD, AND AFTER- 
SUICIDE. — UNBLUSHING EFFRONTERY. 

How various have been the person, ages, cha- 
racters, and dispositions which a long experience in 
a vast prison like this has disclosed ; and how in- 
structive it is to contemplate the wiles of the cri- 
minal herd, and to trace the abortive speculations of 
deceptive minds to their failure and consequences I 
In the recital of prison facts, there can be no ne- 
cessity to disguise names, where they are merely 
assumed, or distinguish parties of abandoned cha- 
racter. Where, however, the connections are re- 
spectable, or the delinquents novices in crime, it is 
charitably judicious to employ initials only. 

My first introduction to this prison brought me 
acquainted with many singular specimens of female 
delinquents, who, herding together, soon taught 
others to be as depraved and corrupt as themselves. 
Elizabeth Harrisy under a sentence for a mis- 

T 4 




r of one year's imprisonmeiit, was a womnn 
of fine form, and of uDuaual beautj. Her address 
■ltd communications to ter superiors indicated no 
lack of educ&tion. There was a courtesy nnd appa- 
rent frankness in her demeanour and remarks which 
dinrmed suEpicion, und inclined the bearer to place 
nUance in her hone lae. Notwithstand- 

ing, however, this nd nor, there lurked a 
■ab-corrent of dupli klesa depravity that 

rendered her a most dangerous sman. When fully 
known, she waa found to be i eriy devoid of con- 
BtnentioasneBs, modesty, or cc imon decency. In 
abort, ahe was, without qualification, an abandoned 
wretch, who delighted in the corruption and ruin of 
any innocent girl, whose miserable lot it was to be 
cast into such a den of iniquity. The atrocious 
treatment by that woman, and others at her instar.ee, 
of one poor young creature, would tax the utmost 
credulity to induce belief. 

In the same "yard" was one Mary Moriarty, a 
young athletic Irishwoman, who was the terror of 
the watchmen and street-keepers in the neitrh- 
bourhood of St. Giles'. Drunkenness, and con- 
sequent violence, frequently consigned her to the 
priBon, where it was some time before I became 
COgniaant of her opposite qualities. If reproved for 
a trifling fault, she would abandon herself to a 



FURY AND GENTLENESS COMBINED. 281 

paroxysm of rage that knew no bounds. She cared 
not whom she assailed^ or what she demolished, and 
it behoved every one who valued either his features 
or his garments quickly to stand aloof. Restraint 
and punishment were her too-frequent lot ; but she 
was never consigned to durance before she had 
fought desperately, and single-handed, against a 
host of male turnkeys. 

A sudden discovery imparted to me the secret of 
her management. So excessive had been her fury 
and resistance, that horror deprived most bystanders 
of any desire to conciliate such a tigress by gentle 
language. One day, however, when she was fast 
bound, and could do me no injury, I approached her, 
and addressed her in kind and feeling terms of 
remonstrance. A sigh and a tear soon evinced the 
efficacy of the appeal, and, from that time forth, my 
expostulatory voice would soothe her rising anger, 
and make her as tractable as a lamb. 

Never did a human creature possess a warmer 
heart ; but the unrestrained indulgence of weak and 
doating parents had made this excitable girl a 
species of untamed vixen, and her wild and lawless 
life contributed to fill up the cup of wretchedness 
which her temper and habits had made her portion. 
She died prematurely exhausted by the lowest de- 
bauchery. 



282 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTtTRE. 

AmoDgst the same heterogeneous group Wfl 
widow about thirty-five years of age, who ■ 
ftsaumed the name of Eliza EUam?. She was of n 
flpcctahlo parentage aad dcecnt education, but had 
discarded all respectability by her habits of intem- 
perance. At times ehe would moralise on her fate, 
and exprcfis a desire to reform. In one of the^ 
penitent mooda she prevailed upon the chaplain to 
interpose with her father, and by that meang we be- 
came aware of his real circumstaace^, and the de- 
basing influence of drink, so strongly exeoipHGed in 
her case. The father of Eliza EUams proved to be 
a retired joint owner and master of a trading- vessel, 
in which he had realised an ample competency. He 
occupied a nicely furnished house near the Com- 
mercial Road, where he was educating hie grand- 
daughter (this wretched woman's child), who was then 
about seventeen years of age, and was daily receiving 
the instruction of music and French maaters. The 
chaplain described her to be a pretty and lady-like girl, 
and her grandfatlier to be disposed (however hope- 
lessly) to do all that might be practicable to reclaim 
his daughter. Such was the home forsaken, and the 
lender ties rent asunder, by the horrible passion for 
drink which induced Eli^a Ellams to Iierd with the 
commonest outcasts of St. Giles', and pursue a life of 
degrading licentiousness. She was at length picked 



^ 



BOMANTIC CBIMINALS. 283 

up in the kennel^ in a state of drunken insensibility, 
and in that state died. 

Deep attachment and romantic terms of endear- 
ment would scarcely be looked for amongst this sin- 
gular clique; yet such either was the sentiment 
merely professed, or actually existent, between Eliza 
Ellams and a young female criminal named Julia 
King. 

J ulia was about twenty-two years of age, and was 
not ill-favoured. Her husband had been hanged for 
burglary, and she was imprisoned, for the term of 
one year, for uttering base-coin. 

Women of the stamp of Eliza Ellams were accus- 
tomed to make the round of all the metropolitan 
prisons; and upon one occasion, while Julia King 
was still incarcerated here, her friend Ellams was at 
the New Prison, Clerkenwell, now demolished. These 
enthusiastic friends carried on a constant corre- 
spondence, and the terms ** My very dearest little 
Julia" and "My dearest friend" invariably com- 
menced a series of letters abounding in protestations 
of attachment, and containing a vast amount of the 
sentimentality so profusely employed in novels. 
Ellams, on such occasions, never forgot her "re- 
spectful duty to the Governor." 

Mary Harvey (originally a domestic servant) died 
in tho infirmary of this prison^ acknowledging to 



S84 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE. 

luTc been committed to mrious of the Loodoa 
prUoas 108 times ; while one Charlotte Webb, muolk 
ihe junior of Harvey, estunated her commif meiita to 
approach 300, Certainly, during the years that I 
kucw Charlotte Wtbb she never appeared to me la 
enjoy more tbnu one dny'e freetlom at a time, so in- 
vetcrnte \rna her habit of intuxicntion. 

I had not been very long in office ere the parties 
Bpprcheiidcd for tlie Moulsey bui^Iary, which liwl 
crv:ute<l a great sensation, were remitiided to this 
prison. Such a course was, at that time, a frequcQt 
practice. Their names were Willinm Banks, James 
Smith, and John Johnson. The treatment of thu 
rcsi>cctable inmates of the house thus sacked, was 
quite in nccordauco with the marked ferocity of the 
thieves of tliat pfiriod ; and the chief perpetrator of 
that fell cruelty was James Smilh, a man about 
thirty yeiirs of age, whose face and savage deport- 
ment exhibited traits of ruffianism rarely eurpasseil. 
With the exception of Bishop, who burked the 
Italian boy, Smith stands recorded in my memory 
as a miscreant more utterly devoid of human pity 
than the majority of criminals of his day. His iden- 
tity not having been sufficiently established, Smith 
was acquittctl, and was frequently an after-visitor 
here for attempts at burglary. Nothing but the 
Btemest determinfttioa could hold such a rufllBn in 



I 



BUFFIANS. — SHARPERS, 285 

check ; but whenever he offended^ I visited him with 
the utmost severity allowed by law, and at length 
he became waiy and cautious. William Banks, as 
perfect a specimen of the athlete as could anywhere 
be seen, with a countenance finely moulded, was fully 
recognised, and subsequently executed, although he 
had been the only man of the party who had evinced 
any touch of humanity towards the despoiled. 

On a sharp, frosty night they had been dragged 
from their beds, hurried down stairs, and, in a state 
of nudity, locked in a damp cellar. Although Banks 
went up to fetch some blankets, which he took to the 
sufferers in the cellar, he was executed, and the arch 
monster Smith escaped. I shudder at the recol- 
lection of that man. 

George Mason and John Vanderville, swell 
thieves, who were reputed veritable ^' buzmen** 
(fellows esteemed superior adepts), frequently hung 
together to perpetrate street robberies. Mason was 
a man of mild, and somewhat genteel exterior, who 
practised a singular mode of depredation. He would 
watch some well-dressed old gentleman of burly car- 
riage, whose outward display of gold or jewellery 
excited the cupidity of the lynx-eyed thief, and the 
robbery used to be efiected in true harlequin style. 
Mason would approach his previously well-scanned 
victim, and suddenly, as if by accident, tread heavily 



m 

1 



286 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTURE, 

upon his foot, causing thereby intenne pain, and 
numerous contortions. While the ]K>or old gentle- 
man was thus writhing with agony, Mason, appa- 
rently grieved and shocked at his own awkwardness, 
would overwhelm him with apologies, profeea to 
support him, and in the plenitude of his condolence 
throw his amis around and about him, and steal his 
gold wutcb, or pick his pocket of its contents. He 
was not, however, sufficiently expert to elude occa- 
sional detection, and, at length, to avoid impending 
danger, he decamped to Amenca, where report 
affirmed he had thriven on hia villanous pursuit- 
John Bishop, Sarah Bishop hia wife, Thomas 
TViiliains, and Khoda Head, the last named in reality 
the daughter of Bishop and the reputed wife of 
AVilliams, were all sent on remand to this prison. 
The two men were charged (with one May, sent to 
the New Prison) as the actual murderers of the Italian 
boy, and the two women as accessories after the fact. 
Bishop was a stout, thick-set, repulsive looking 
fellow, who constitutes my supreme and unsurpassed 
reminiscence of the arch ruffian. Sent here on re- 
mand, and ordered to be "kept apart" (an occasional 
custom in those days), he entered the prison uttering 
frightful oaths and execrations, indulged in the gross- 
est language, and assailed each subordinate, and even 
myself, with language of menace and defiance. He 



THE MURDERER JOHN BISHOP. 287 

had received no earthly provocation, but gave vent 
to the irrepressible brutality of his nature. 

Fourteen days of exclusive, self-communing incar- 
ceration, produced in this fearful criminal a change 
so marked and depressing, as to constitute an instruc- 
tive commentary upon the wear and tear which un- 
mitigated reflections will produce upon the sternest 
resolutions of a guilty mind. Bishop was, by law, 
entitled to supply himself with abundant food, and 
to be furnished with a reasonable quantity of porter ; 
he was permitted to take exercise in the open air, 
and to have the plentiful use of books : so that feeble- 
ness could not have been induced by diminished sus- 
tenance, nor be accounted for, otherwise than by 
the terror resulting from guilty ruminations. Certain 
it is, that iron-souled miscreant became so meek and 
subdued, so prone to tears, so agitated and tremulous, 
that, at the end of fourteen days, when he was again 
sent up to the police-office, he could hardly be re- 
cognised as the same coarse and blustering bully 
who had so recently entered the prison. I never saw 
the effects of solitary confinement, upon a conscience 
stricken by crime, more fearfully exemplified. When 
committed to Newgate for trial, and again associated 
with lawless spirits, I found, on inquiry, that he had 
relapsed into a state of brutality so imbedded in his 
nature. 



\ 



288 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

Williama was a puny, pale, trembling wretch, 
who must liave been iii^ed on to such an extremity 
of guilt, by tbe counsel and example of bis associate, 
The two women were, doubtless, quite ignorant of 
all but the calling as " body snatchera" of their male 
connections; indeed, in a letter found in Williams'n 
possession from Rhoda Head, she implored him to 
beware of, and to resist, men of that shocking pursuit, 
and warned him that they were " a wicked set" 
These two women were retained here in custody until 
after the conviction of their husbands ; and on the 
night of that memorable trial, which did not terminate 
till a late hour, they bad retired to bed in the infir- 
mary, then without patients. I was advised that it 
was customary, on anch awful occasions, to infonn 
parties thus circumstanced of so important a result, 
and with that view I reached home from the Old 
Bailey, and hastened to make the necessary commu- 
nication. Sotwithstauding that her father and hus- 
band bad been all duy long on trial, and their Hvm 
wore known to be more than in jeopardy, lihoda Head 
was sleeping soundly, and was awaked to receive tbe 
fatal iutelligence of which I was the bearer. I dis- 
closed my mission as delicately as might be, and for 
a minute ot two she and her mother shed copious 
tears ; but no sooner was I gone, than Rhoda Heuil 
relapsed into sleep, and slept without intermission 



A WEALTHY MISER AND SHOP-LIFTER. 289 

throughout the night. So much for sensibility. I 
cannot say that the savage bearing of Bishop quite 
resulted from his repulsive craft ; for the two Sherrinsi 
brothers, and Sutton, well-known despoilers of church- 
yards, were men rather of kindly bearing. 

One of the most extraordinary persons committed 
to my care, was an old Irish lady, who, for that 
especial occasion, assumed the name of Sarah Collins. 
She had been convicted of stealing lace, and I have 
no doubt she had long been a wealthy shop-lifter. I 
estimated, from all the information I could glean, her 
property at exceeding 20,000/. After she had been 
arrested, searched, and thus detected in the larceny, 
and was committed for trial, she successfully nego- 
ciated for the absence of the prosecutor, according to 
her own averment, for the consideration of 500/. 
Moreover, a casual friend hastened over from Ireland 
to afford his active personal services, and to him also 
she handed over 500/., to be in due course accounted 
for ; a condition which she soon found was of hope- 
less consummation. The prosecutor silenced, and all 
apparently made smooth for an acquittal, her release 
would have ensued, but for the stem sense of justice 
of Lord Denman, then Common Serjeant. That 
learned judge penetrated the scheme of evasion, and 
resolved to defeat it. Consequently, his examination 
of the police -constable who produced the lace, and 

VOL. II. u 



290 PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTDRB. 

hU lordship'a remarks to the jury on the indisputable 
merits of the case, ensured her couviction ; and she 
received a sentence of one year's impriaonmcnt, and 
was consigned to this House of Correction, 

On the examination of her wardrobe she was found 
to possess no undei^linen. A large wash-leather 
gnnnent served her for a chemise, and amply en- 
cased her frame. That curious and unwonted article 
of female attire was- furniaheil with several capa- 
cious pockets of the like material, which doubtless 
facilitated the secretion of articles abstracted from 
shop-count ere. There was also in her possession 
a memorandum book, containing a multitude of 
strange hieroglyphics, together with a maaa of 
legible addresses, all of which proved to be shopa 
well suited to her devices. She was, unquestionably, 
a strange 8i>eciraen of the rich and grasping miser- 
Mrs. Collins had not been long under my charge, 
ere she besought me most urgently to allow her ia 
send for, and receive here, a box from her lod<rinifs, 
which she averred to contain " papers " of the utmost 
moment to her interests. After many importunities 
and great empressement on the subject, she wrung 
from me a consent ; and to this place consequently 
the box was consigned, while the landlord, who 
brought it, and his own bill at the same time, had 
a hard battle to fight ere he could procure a settle- 



k 



A RICH DISCOVERT. 291 

ment of the latter. Meanwhile^ I considerately 
allowed the examination of the ** papers," which 
proved to be of a very singular character. 

The female officer who watched the search be-> 
held a somewhat weighty parcel hastily withdrawn, 
and thrust under the garments (at that period, the 
prison dress) of Mrs. Collins. All further search 
was forthwith relinquished ; and with breathless 
haste the aged prisoner rushed up to the infirmary, 
where cold and rheumatism had caused her to be 
placed, while the officer hurried to reveal her sus^ 
picions to the matron. The matron with great 
promptitude sent for me, when lo! those precious 
" papers " proved, on closer inspection, to be a sum 
of money, consisting of notes, a great quantity of 
gold, and much silver, amounting to upwards of 
2640Z. The scene that ensued was perfectly dra- 
matic. The horror of the miser at the fear of losing 
her treasure, — the passionate appeals to me to pre- 
serve it for her, — the stealthy approach towards me, 
and the stifled whisper, **Take what you like for 
yourself, but spare me some of it I Don't let it 
go to the government!'' all evidenced intense ex- 
citement. She had heard that a conviction of felony 
involved forfeiture of personal property, and she 
was in an agony of agitation. I paid, as in duty 

required, to Sir Chapman Marshall, who was then 

u 2 



292 PEACE, WAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

Sheriff, the whole amount of the capture, and thus 
for a while the matter subsided. 

The newspapers had circulated^ perhaps exag- 
gerated, reports of Mrs. Collinses wealth ; and some 
weeks after the above transaction a letter came ad- 
dressed to her, impressed with a seal in i/vhich the 
" blood-red hand " was unmistakeable. The writer, 
doubtless, did not know that all letters to prisoners 
were inspected by the authorities. I of course 
opened this, and found it to be an oSer of marriage 
from a Baronety who reasoned cooUj that a change 
of name alone could avert the permanent dishonour 
of this untoward incident! He offered his own 
hand ; and I was particularly struck with the decla- 
ration, that he " should be happy to introduce her to 
his daughters, who would vie with him in makinff her 
home haj^py." 

I full well remember the name of that titled pro- 
poser ; but I have never revealed it. First, I con- 
ceived that it had come to my knowledge sanctified 
by official confidence ; and, secondly, I learned from 
certain inquiries that a speculation, not deserving to 
be styled rash, had immersed that gentleman in 
pecuniary difficulties. 

With the letter in my hand I sought out Mrs. Col- 
lins, and, presenting it to her, said jocosely, «« There, 
Mrs. Collins, is an offer of marriage for you." ^« For 



f 



AN OFFER OP MARRIAGE. — PENURIOUS SPIRIT. 293 

me, sir?" she inquired, with her usual strong Irish 
accent, and, seizing the letter, read a few lines, and, 
ejaculating some words expressive of contempt, cast 
it with pettishness into the fire. The contemptuous 
manner in which the thing was decided, created for 
the poor old woman in my mind some slight respect. 

At length her imprisonment lapsed, and she must 
needs, and, as the world might suppose, gladly, quit 
her present abode. Not so, however. The day was 
wet and cold, certainly ; hut it would be imagined 
that a rich gentlewoman must be delighted to quit an 
abode characterised by restraint, gentle though it 
might be, and by the absence of all luxuries ; and 
that she would be zealous to secure for herself some 
approach to conventional comfort. But who can 
probe the aspirations of a miser ? Mrs. Collins had 
no desire to stir. As the morning was bad, she 
begged permission to stay till the afternoon, which 
was readily accorded ; and when that arrived, marked 
by increasing wet and cold, she sent to inquire if she 
might stay till the morrow. I at once refused. I 
knew, from previous indications, that a miserably 
penurious spirit influenced her selection ; and T sent 
word that she possessed ample means to engage a 
lodging or put up at an hotel, and that go from this 
prison she must Go, therefore, she did. 

A short time afterwards she called upon me, well 

17 8 



tM >mAC^ WAib AMP j Uif w mmTumM . 



^USmL «d m «anMii ■nocinln ■■ufiwwwl fS6 linuik u 
ftr implieil fcindaw M i I JBd ao^ Iiowmer, nty 
flmihr vma Imt iwpntiwiilti*ni nnoft I bid leanifid 

■%^t frocerf npiMt ne kgd^lbr ilM vestita&ii 
drAeS640L ibdMvecidUlbeiiodoiibtordiekw 
itt Aat iartno^ I mmfimtob^ n£8bmit to 117 

tailMd bj •& uMidwIi €f w> iiidbmy dMunuSter. A 
iMMskafij-ooaoh om iftorMon axtii^ fimn Bow 
BfaMl, toiif«jriiigi iqpJkr ilie dbail^ of. Qai^Eaeri 
tte ofioer, n goadenn dP vwj fitdukiittildb 1^ 
pcin mo e^ who pn/nA to be m Gq^tam SL He was 
a man who had long moved in good sociely^ and 
whose brother I had fiill well remembered as a lieu- 
tenant in one of the regiments, with the army of occu- 
pation in France. That unhappy man^ the prisoner 
in question, had long maintained a superior ap- 
pearance by practices as rare as they were nefarious. 
He had, by an adept contrivance, learned to neatly 
cut out the "ten" or "five" from a Bank of En<»- 
land note, and so cleverly to insert forty or fifty 
that the fraud was undiscernible by ordinary traders, 
and scarcely so even by official scrutineers, until 
aided by a reference to dates and numbers. The 
Bank of England, long aware that a fraud of this 



A BABE STST£M OF FORGERY.— ITS RESULTS. 295 

kind was of daily perpetration^ had been earnestly 
seeking in vain to detect the offender. 

At length the guilt of Captain H. became public 
by the following curious train of circumstances. 
Two years previously he had bought a horse^ saddle^ 
and bridle at Beardsworth's repository, at Birming- 
ham, had paid for them with one of these spurious 
notes, and had received back a certain amount of 
change. The note, paid by Beardsworth in the 
course of trade, was in due time refastened upon him, 
with all the loss of the transaction ; and the rage of a 
man thus defrauded maybe supposed so to have taxed 
his memory, as to bring back, in bold relief, the 
features of the cheat. Beardsworth recalled him to 
mind, and was on the look-out for him ; and H. had, 
as indelibly, conceived the stamp of the face of his 
victim. On the afternoon of his apprehension, H., 
who was casually walking in*the Lowther Arcade, 
was about to emerge from the north entrance, as 
Beardsworth was on the point to enter by it ; they 
both saw each other, and an instant recognition 
mutually occurred. H. ran with utmost speed, 
closely pursued by Beardsworth. They made the 
circuit of Trafalgar Square ; and H., sorely pressed, 
sought once more the fatal north entrance to the 
Arcade, and was there captured, on the very spot 
that marked their first rencontre a few minutes pre* 

u 4 



296 



PEACE, WAR, AND ADVENTUB; 



vioueljr. The case was heard at Bow Street. U. 
was remanded to Cold Bath-fielils Friaoii, from 
wlienco he never again went out alive ; for there he 
committed n most determined and deliberate 8uici<l& 
On the evening preceding liia death I had sent for 
him to my office, to inquire, simply as a matter of 
duty, if he had any thing to eay to me. He seemed 
to bo labouring under deep anguish of mind, and 
with evident emotion asked, if I would alloir h\i 
fire to be well made up, that, by ita light, he might 
be enabled to write an important letter. Such 
permission was readily accorded, and he was locked 
in one of the renmnd-rooma for the night. 

As I was about to be engaged at the Sessions all 
the following day, I arose early, and accompanied 
the chief- warder in his morning inspection and 
muster. On coming to the remand-room the door 
was unlocked and opened, and, being the first to 
step in, I started back at the sight of H. suspended 
from a nail in the wall. He was quite cold, and had 
been dead for some hours, and a very long letter, 
written to Ins wife by the glare of the fire he had soli- 
cited, lay on the table. So determined hod the 
wretched man been to allow no casualty to frustrate 
his design, that after making fast his pocket-hand- 
kerchief, first to his neck and next to the nail, while 
standing on a chair, he next bound his wrists with 



A WELL WEIGHED SUICIDE. 297 

« 

each end of his neck-handkerchief^ and^ passing a leg 
over it, kicked away the chair, and thus bereft his 
hands of the power to act during his death-struggles. 
He perished ignominiously, urged to his shameful 
fate by a weak desire to maintain an undue ap- 
pearance, and to enjoy a false position, by the 
instrumentality of a perilous fraud. 

The letter to his wife disclosed the imperturbable 
coolness and patient calmness of his intellect. He 
entered into the most minute details for her 
guidance; directed her as to the disposal and ap- 
plication of all available means ; spoke of his 
wretched children with equanimity, and counselled 
their mother as to their education and destination ; 
and, in short, displayed so clear and discriminating a 
judgment, even in that dread hour, that the jury 
unanimously returned a verdict o( felo de se; and 
Captain H. was interred in the centre of cross-roads 
in this parish, not far removed from the scene of his 
dishonoured exit from the world. 

Gardiner, the officer, who had charge of the case, 
possessed himself of H.'s effects, and sought with nice 
acumen to discover the means H. had resorted to for 
effecting so subtle a fraud. He was almost baffled in 
the attempt to unveil the mystery, until he pressed 
his thumb closely along the inner margin of a port- 
manteau, when a spring gave way, and he discoverod 



298 PEACE, WAB, AND ADTKNTUBE. 

and showed me a small collection of fine camel-luur 
pencils, Indian ink, gum, and numerous black letter 
** forties" and "fifties" nicely imitative of the Bank 
originals. Thus miserably perished Captain H., a man 
of fashionable exterior, good education, and of most 
respectable connections. 

The low thieves of London are usually an ignorant 
idle, dirty set of skulkers, with a carriage in the 
streets that at once betrays their calling to the eje of 
those acquainted with the class. Their hang-dog 
looks are unmistakeable ; and thus a combination of 
external unseemliness, and the absence of real 
dexterity, tend to mark them as objects for arrest, 
or the slaves of unprofitable toil. Not so the highest 
order of depredators. Of this class there are but few 
who go openly abroad to exercise manual tact and 
ingenuity. Still there are some who are men of 
superior bearing, good address, ready wit, and un- 
blushing impudence. 

Some years ago I repaired one morning, as was 
my daily custom, to the "reception ward," which 
contained those committed on the preceding day and 
evening. Amongst the usual herd of dirty wretches 
there stood a tali young man of the most fashionable 
exterior, whose dress denoted unquestionable style, 
and whose whole appearance was most distinguL 
Amazed to see a person of such an unusual stamp, I 



EXT£BNAL FASHION AND INTERNAL CEAFT. 299 

inquired^ " What has brought you to prison, Sir ? " 
He shrugged his shoulders, and said, with apparent 
concern, '^ A strange mistake : I am accused of having 
picked the pocket of an officer of the Guards at a 
bazaar. Whereas my name is Hawkesbury ; I am the 
son of a Major in the army, and am connected with 
some of the first families in England.*' I recom- 
mended an application to the Secretary of State, and 
affirmed that a mistake of such a nature clearly 
established could be easily rectified. 

Thus I left him, and he, with others, was duly 
clothed in the prison costume and consigned to the 
yard allotted to *' rogues and vagabonds," for as 
such he was convicted, and sentenced to imprison- 
ment with hard labour for six weeks. 

In the forenoon I was in my office, and was sud- 
denly apprised that a gentleman desired to speak to 
me, when in walked a man apparently exceeding 
forty years of age, who was fashionably attired, and 
possessed the exterior of a gentleman. He seemed 
to be deeply affected, held his handkerchief to his 
eyes, and appeared to sob convulsively. I was 
moved by the man's well-feigned grief, and implored 
him to be comforted, but it was some minutes before 
he was restored to composure ; and then he proceeded 
to inform me he was Major Hawkesbury, and was 



300 PEACE, WAR) AND ADVENTURE. 

tte father of the unfortunnte joung gentleman of 
whom I have already spoken. 

He could not, he sniJ, comprehend how so fatal !i 
mistake could have nriacn, talked of his connectioa 
with a baronet, and the high respectability of all the 
family, and, in short, completely imposed apon me 
by his specious address and manners. 

" To refer to the Secretary of State was," he said, 
*' im possible." The affair must not transpire ; the 
family name could not be coupled with such a trans- 
action, and there was no alternative but for young 
Hawkesbury to stay out the six weeks ; and my 
clemency was invoked in bis behalf. He did stay 
out the term, observed the utmost propriety of con- 
duct, and at length left me with the firm belief that 
he really was the victim of an error, and could boast 
of genteel lineage. 

Two years had elapsed. I had almost forgotten 
Hawkesbury, but went as usual in the morning to 
the reception ward, and there again stood the iden- 
tical man, arrayed in the same fashionable attire, and 
wearing the same modest expression of countenance. 
I was of course amazed, inquired into the present 
charge, and learned that it was for picking a pocket 
at the Italian Opora. Again was he convicted as a 
rogue and vagabond, — but this time the sentence 
was the maximum term of three calendar months. 



"I 



SINGULAB EFFBONTEBY. 301 

I told bim there could be no mistake now> and tbat 
I would take care to suffer no deception to be again 
practised upon me. He still talked of his family 
and high connections ; but I silenced him^ and left 
him to the discipline of the tread-wheel. 

About noon I was in my office^ and in conyersa- 
tion with Mr. Moreton Dyer^ then a magistrate^ 
when we were startled by a knock at the outer gate^ 
^^ so long and loud it might have raised the dead." I 
never heard such a knock either before or since. The 
gate opened^ in stalked (apparently) a gentleman^ and 
in the loudest tone inquired if the Governor was 
within. Answered in the affirmative^ and shown 
into my office^ he rushed up to me^ seized me by the 
hand^ which he shook most heartily^ and exclaimed, 
^' Captain Chesterton, how do you do ? I am de- 
lighted to see you ! " " You have the advantage of 
me," said I ; '* I really don't know you." — " Why," 
said my visitor, with an assumed nonchalance, ^^ it is 
two years since we met ; but upon that occasion you 
were very kind and considerate, and I am come — " 
Beginning to surmise, I interrupted him — ** Surely^ 
Sir, you are not come about that man Hawkes- 
worth?" (Such was the present name, and not 
Hawkesbury.) " The very same." — ** Then, Sir," I 
replied, ^^ I beg you will not take the liberty to shake 
me by the hand." ^' Not shake you by the hand. 



302 PEACE, WAH, AND ADTENTURE. 

Sir? " said the fellow with an affected frown, " why 
not? I often shake Sir Robert Peel by the band. 
My name is Howard. I am a Kojal Academician ; I 
Uve at Cloudesley Terrace, Hamraersmitli, and often 
dine at Sir Robert's table." — "Why, Sir," said I, 
"you forget yourself; the last time I saw you, you 
were a Major in the army ! " " Oh dear no. Sir ; 
you are quite mistaken. I said the young manV 
fatkiir was a Major in the army." 

It was in vaia for me to reiterate the real facts; 
be denied all with unblushing efirontery, and, after 
inviting Mr. Dyer, whose name he heard me pro- 
nounce, to " Cloudesley Terrace, Hammersmith," lie 
made me a etitf bow, and walked away. 

I instantly despatched an officer, well acquainted 
with Hammersmith, to make a searching inquiry, 
and his report was, there was no such place as 
Cloudesley Terrace, nor did Mr. Howard, R. A,, ilve 
in Hammersmith, or in its vicinity. 

The same two fellows were subsequently taken up 
for picking pockets at the Yacht Ball, at Cowes, and 
were committed for trial. They promptly sued out 
a writ of Habeas Corpus, and by misrepresen- 
tation induced the judge in chambers to admit 
them to bail. The bail required was heavy, but 
that they forfeited, and set sail for Auierica, in order 
to escape the doom of transportation, which they fidl 
well knew awaited them in England. 




303 



CHAP, xxin, 

AN UNMEBITBD 8EKTENCE. — ITS BESULTS. — CASE OP APPALLINO 

DEOENERACT. TITLED DELINQUENTS. IBRADICABLE TAINT OF 

CRIME. 

The following history is that of a really beautiful 
young woman, and its contemplation awakens a 
combination of pain and pleasure. It is, indeed^ sad 
to reflect that a misapprehension of suspicious cir- 
cumstances, without the means at hand of correct 
elucidation, should have wrongfully consigned a 
young creature, not more than twenty-two years of 
age, to the lingering application of penal discipline 
for a whole year. Yet there is a melancholy 
satisfaction in reflecting that much good resulted to 
that unhappy girl, from the genuine charity which 
impels an active Christian spirit to dive into the 
abodes of wretchedness, and to seek the redemption 
even of the imprisoned outcast. 

When I affirm that C. M. was really beautiful, I 
deal not in exaggeration ; for the judge who tried 
her, the late Common Seijeant, quite scandalised her 
prosecutrix, and some lady friends who accompanied 



304 PEACE, IVAB, AND ADVENTURE. 

her to the court, by the apology he addreescd to the 
jury for not transporting the trembling girl at the 
hiir, saying, "Gentleman, we cannot afford to send 
auch beauty from this country." Her eentence, 
cougequently, became imprieoninent nith bard labour 
for one year. 

C. M. waa in the service of Mrs. N. as lady'ii 
itiaid to her daughter, who was at that time 
receiving the addresses of Captain J. of the R If. 
Mise N. testified her regard for her lover bj 
working, decorating, or marking cambric handker- 
chiefs, and other euch light presents, which she was 
injudiciously in the habit of transmit tin<f, with occa- 
sional billets doux, by tfie handa of her pretty maiJ, 
who, on such occiaions, carried them to the captain's 
lodgings. In time the captain appears to have 
overstepped the liounds of prudence and propriety, 
and most reprehensibly to have cultivated such terms 
with his eliarming messenger as to lead him to 
present, and her to accept, a few of the small 
presents which Miss N. had designed for hlra idoce. 
C. M. always emphatically insisted upon tlie perfect 
innoceocy of lier little flirtation with Captain J., but 
there is quite sufficient in its outward aspect to 
justify reproof. However, pending his engagement 
with Miss N., Captain J. accepted the conuuand of a 
frigate, and sailed to the coast of North America. 



\ 



A CBITICAL DISCOYEBY. 305 

He had not been long away^ when on some luckless 
occasion Miss N., in the absence of her maid^ went 
to the room of the latter in search of something 
hastily wanted ; and, not finding what she sought, 
raised the lid of a box belonging to C. M., and to 
her horror and dismay beheld, in the possession of 
her maid, several of the pretty presents worked by 
her own fair fingers for Captain J. Running to her 
mother with indignant haste, she imparted the fact 
to her, and succeeded in arousing the fierce anger of 
that matron ; and it was forthwith determined to call 
in a policeman, to seize C. M. on her return home, 
and to subject her to prosecution. All this was 
accordingly done, and at length the wretched girl, 
who could only plead in her extremity the free gift 
of Captain J., without a scintilla of proof to justify 
her assertion, was, as I have shown, convicted, 
sentenced, and immured without a voice being raised 
in her behalf. 

There was a modest gentleness in her deportment, 
which disposed every one in her favour ; and although 
she spoke to me in fervid terms of her innocence, 
yet that plea is so incessantly set forth in prisons, 
that it is listened to with almost universal incredulity. 
We treated C. M. with suavity and kindness, and 
she repaid us by the most exemplary conduct, and 
by unwearied industry. By some means the fate of 

VOL. II. X 



306 PEACE, WAB, AND ADPENTUBE. 

the poor girl liad reached the eara of Captiun J,, 
abaent and on duty in America, and he wrote a 
letter to Sir F. O., an aged baronet, imploring of him 
to see her redressed, and fully confirmed the truth of 
her averment. Iq that letter, which was brought to 
me by the baronet. Captain J. cursed his iadiscretioO] 
and aflSrmed that he could not rest, day or night, 
from thinking of that injured girl. The baronet, 
however, waa one of those easy-going old gentlemen 
who could not appreciate the Captain's anguish, and 
who expressed himself very drily, and as he imagiaed 
■agely, on the casual relation between a gentleman 
»nd a pretty girl; and although he saw C. M. and 
coldly asked her a few questions, he departed ini» 
muring aphorisms, which resolved themselves into 
very common-place philosophy. 

The declaration of the girl herself, supported now 
by the testimony of Captain J., necessarily produced 
a strong impression upon my mind, and I bc^n lo 
regard her case with much sympathy. Still nothbg 
could be attempted in her behalf; for in cases of cod- 
viction founded upon evidence given upon oath, 
mere epistolary explanations avail little. Thus 
months rolled on, and the poor girl's fulfilment of 
her sentence seemed inevitable. Again, however, 
did Captain J. strive to enlist a friend in her behalf; 
and Captain K. brought me a letter to peruse, couched 



\ 



DESTITUTION AND RUIN AVERTED. 307 

in terms more strongly descriptive of the agon j with 
which J. reflected upon the girl's unmerited fate. 
A consultation^ however^ between Captain K. and 
myself resulted in the conviction that we were 
powerless to serve her. 

In process of time the term of sentence lapsed^ 
and C. M. was discharged^ with such assistance as 
lay within the compass of the means at our disposal ; 
but still the (ud extended to her was necessarily 
limited. Not many days after her discharge^ I was 
informed that a lady desired to see me ; and a person 
entered the office so deeply veiled that it was im- 
possible to recognise her features. The stranger, 
however, upraised her veil» and there stood C. M., 
genteelly attired, her hair disposed in ringlets, and 
her fine features seen to an advantage which the 
prison costume had naturally marred. 

With tears she besought my advice and assistance, 
described her lack of friends, relatives, or pecuniary 
means, and avowed her anxiety to be saved from the 
ruin that seemed to stare her in the face. Seeing 
she was in earnest, I recommended her to fly for 
counsel and assistance to a Samaritan lady, whoni 
she had known as a prison visitor. I furnished her 
with the address, to which she instantly repiured; 
and finding there a willing ear and Christian sym- 
pathy, C. M. entered a superior asylum under the 

z a 



308 PEACE, WAR, AND ADTENTUBS* 

auspices of that kind patroness, from whence she 
was soon drafted into a fiunilj made cognisant of 
her severe trials. The last aooounts of her were 
highly faTOurable to her well doing ; she was m 
favour with her employers, and had earned the 
character with them of an exemplary young woman. 
Whether Captain J. was ever enabled to indemnify 
her for the sufferings his thoughtless levity had 
entuled upon her, I could never learn, though I 
casually heard that the incidents of this catastrophe 
broke off his engagement with Miss N. 

The history which I now propose to relate, is one 
of a most remarkable character. Within the last 
three or four years, there was imprisoned in this 
House of Correction, a woman (E. L.) about twenty- 
six years of age, of short and slender form, possessing 
small, bright, and intelligent features, and capable at 
will of assuming a perfectly ladylike deportment. 
Frequently brought under my notice by persevering 
misconduct, she one day in reply to my remonstrance 
asked me with a look of earnest inquiry, how I 
expected she could ever emerge from the degradation 
in which she had been steeped. She averred the 
thing to be impossible. Struck by the energy of her 
rebuke, I inquired into her history, and received 
from her own lips the ensuing strange relation. 
First, I discovered that she was a woman of very 



I 



A SINGULAR CABEEB. 309 

good education^ and she professed to have been reared 
and educated a gentlewoman. 

According to her own account, she had married, at 
a very early age, a Frenchman of good station and 
fortune, with whom she had lived happily in Paris 
for nine years, until in an evil hour she saw and be- 
came attached to a young Englishman of ample 
means, with whom she eloped from her husband. 
Here let me observe, t£at she spoke French fluently, 
and with a pure Parisian accent. She described her 
seducer with great enthusiasm, and emphatically de- 
clared that the happiness she had enjoyed with him, 
during ten months, would, in her own terms, *^ com- 
pensate her for an eternity of mbery." 

He brought her to England, and introduced her to 
a friend of his, who also kept a mistress, and the four 
resided together in elegant lodgings in the same 
house, in Bury Street, St James's. She possessed, 
she said, abundant means in money, had a profusion 
of jewellery, and the most ample fashionable ward- 
robe. In short, she revelled in luxury. At length, 
however, the peace of herself and her female com- 
panion was disturbed by the frequent nightly ab- 
sence of their lords, and by some means they ascer- 
tained that those gentlemen had become the fre- 
quenters of a house of equivocal reputation. The 
two women sought out, and bribed the mistress of 

X 3 



310 PEACE, WAR, AND ADTBNTUBE. 

this house to admit them that thej might unex- 
pectedly confront their faithless swains; and that 
project they accordingly carried into execution. 
E. L.*8 protector became so exasperated at this in- 
terference with his free action, that he quitted her 
instantly, and she saw him no more. She waited for 
days in anxious expectation of his return ; and no 
sooner did she become convinced that she was cer- 
tainly abandoned, than rage and despair took posses- 
sion of her mind, and she proceeded to act with 
prompt desperation. 

She threw oiF all but the most indispensable cloth- 
ing, she cast aside and spumed the jewels she had 
worn, she threw her money on the floor, and, with a 
bare sufficiency for the most pressing want, she 
rushed wildly into the street, and seeking a public 
house drank off such a quantity of brandy at a 
draught, as to become completely insensible. Ho\f 
long she remained in that state, she knew not ; but 
when she awoke to consciousness she found herself 
the inmate of a hospital (the Middlesex, I believe), 
reduced to the weakest condition. 

As she became convalescent, she contracted by 
some means an acquaintance with a German, whose 
calling was that of a shoemaker. He also had been 
an inmate of the hospital, and extended to her, then 
weak and dejected, considerable sympathy and kind- 






THE EXTREBnXY OF DEGBADATION. 311 

ness. Gratitude attached her to that man, and at 
length they conjointly occupied a single room, the 
lodging in which he pursued his humble craft. He 
was, she said, addicted to drink, and smoked inces- 
santly, and she soon learned to acquire these (for a 
woman) revolting practices, and accompanied him 
nightly to the tap-room of a public house, where she 
joined in the prevailing drunkenness, and listened, 
without shame, to the vilest ribaldry of the fre- 
quenters of that low resort. Often, she affirmed, 
had she seen individuals take off their very small- 
clothes, send them to be pawned, or sold, and sit 
without them to consume the proceeds in more drink. 
All this time she felt a sort of savage pleasure in 
thus revenging herself for the sudden blight of her 
unhallowed, but deep-rooted affections. Poverty 
became the necessary result of such a course, and 
then she resorted to theft, which had twice brought 
her to this prison. When I asked her if an appeal 
to her husband in Paris would be likely to prove 
successful, she replied, with an indescribable ex- 
pression of momentary affliction, that she was sure 
there was not a fault in her that her husband would 
not pardon, nor a sacrifice for her sake he would not 
make. But no : her degradation was, she affirmed, 
too great for redemption ; she was lost body and 
eoul irremediably, and seemed half to glory in her 

X 4 



iACZ, WAK, AND ADVENTCKE. 

Thii is an example^ as rare aa fearful, of > 
■IttS o( singular construction, capable of only one 
absoFbing passioD, and equal to the abaDdonment 
jf^authly and heavenly hopes to gratify a aenticoeirt 
«f indofinnble desperation. E, L. left this pria>n ; 
but I ha^e since heard of her aa an habitual dmnkard, 
mad daily increaslog reprobate. 
■ Both on the males' and females* side of the prieon 
hive we had, in the course of years, persons of almost 
wery grade in life. On the male side I do not 
believe one of the various professions could truth- 
fully be omitted; and some details would disclose 
very singular habits and exceptionable practices. 
Numerous transitions from high respectability to d&- 
[dorable degradation have tended to exhibit the plis- 
bility of the human mind, capable of enlargement or 
contraction in a most remarkable degree. 

One man, indeed, was imprisoned here first as a 
felon, and subsequently as a common beggar, who had 
been a captain in a regiment of the line, and had in fact 
been known to a mi^stratc of the county, who had 
served in the same regiment. 

On the females' side we have witnessed the inoai^ 
Deration of the lady of a baronet (Lady B.), and that 
of a French visoountess (M.). The former was a 
woman of bad disposition and arrogant bearing, but 
of most tasteful notion of dress ; for even the prison 



A 9BENCH YISCOUNTBSS. 313 

costume was put on (especially the cap) in so quiet 
yet effective style^ that strangers were led to inquire 
who the wearer could he, and to applaud her ladylike 
appearance. This is almost the only virtue I could 
assign her; for, apart from other human frailties, 
she was not long after her enlargement convicted of 
wilful and corrupt perjury, and forfeited her sureties 
rather than come up to receive judgment. 

The latter was a very extraordinary person, who 
bore the name of Louise Mirabella, and was con- 
nected with a gang of French swindlers in London, 
after Paris had become, in a common figure of speech, 
'* too hot to hold her." Knowing her untrustworthy 
disposition, I should not have confided in her own 
statement an to her name and connections; but a 
correspondence both with herself and, in a very 
limited degree, with me, by the then editor of " La 
Presse ^ journal, who had known her for years, made 
me cognisant of her true history. She was a woman 
of very high talent, remarkable for eloquence and 
tears. I never knew a woman more truly eloquent, 
nor one who, in the simple recital of her own case, 
shed so many or such pearly tears. 

She asked my permission to write for her friend, 
the editor, a description of thb establishment with its 
discipline and details ; and her paper on the subject 
would have done credit to any periodicaL Still she 



314 PEACE, WAB, AND ADTfiNTUBE. 

was a treacherous, bad woman, about twenty-three 
years of age, with a bright, but by no means hand- 
some countenance, and a disposition replete with 
chicane and intrigue. The fraud which brought her 

I here for one year displayed great Jines^ and arch 

dissimuUtion. Indeed, her correspondent, the editor, 
far from writing her hiUeU cUmxy reproached her 
bitterly for former turpitude, and expressed a mis- 

; trust of any hopeful future improvement. The 

\lscount M. had, it appeared, married her for the 
little money she possessed, which, having obtained, 
he left her to her fate, and it was her misfortune 
to contract friendships which were ruinous to her 
principles. 

After quitting this prison, she was again detected 
in a similar fraud, and was sentenced to trans- 
portation. I went to the New Prison, at Clerken- 
wcll, after her second conviction, in 1841 or 1842; 
and in the presence of the matron of that prison, 
she fully maintained the character I have given her 
for copious weeping. 

As a concluding proof of the demoralising stain 
inflicted by crime, and the perverted inclinations 
which it engenders, I will cite the case of a woman 
of genteel and interesting appearance, who, some ten 
years ago, figured before a criminal court as the 
Hon. Mrs. Talbot. She had attracted the cha- 



VICE AND POVERTY PBEFEBBED. 315 

ritable notice of a humane magistrate, who, having 
learned her father's address, wrote to him in her 
behalf. He proved to be a man who had realised a 
fortune out of one of the splendid inns of England, 
and was living as a gentleman at a handsome country 
residence, which he had purchased. She was an 
onlj daughter, and her fall had sensibly affected him. 
He wrote consequently, in terms suitable to the 
pang which she had inflicted, and willingly agreed to 
receive her home again, on her promise of future 
amendment. I was the medium of communication 
between the kind magistrate and Talbot (in which 
name she was imprisoned), and for months she 
professed thankfulness at the happier prospects in 
view. As the time of her enlargement, however, 
approached, she hesitated and demurred, imtil it 
became manifest that she clung with fondness to a 
debasing, though exciting, life, and preferred a 
precarious course of immorality and fraud, to the 
peacefulness of an elegant home and paternal tender- 
ness. How aptly does Scripture inquire, ''Can the 
Ethiopian change his skin, or the leopard its spots ?" 
We heard of that wretched woman thereafter as the 
companion of a male swindler, with whom she was 
living in very inferior lodgings. 



A? 1 ^'c>:L'Jdioa ^i personal mdrei 
:ci::HAecdj forpres! tti« act, tl 
lv« Tern. I luT<i twice lurroirl' 
-he hastia ot prJooers. 

Oae wTitchiai bein^. named C 
§<:c. whoee onKr ot' crime cou] 
o«<ik(i. bibitcaOy coatem^Jated th 
jo«ver oii^t offend him ; snd as I 
his lurbulent dispoeiuon freqaenil 
<.Vtiic« him. he conmred, in Jane 
sod «Kivte a shup-pointed knife 
kill me. 

I wad proTidentiallj saved iroin 1 
unoffending warder, named Woodh 
t>> the heart by the prisoner in a fi: 
that occarion many pri^nerB, seai 
jamped op and rushed to the osaista 
Alas ! their well-meant zeal waa \ 



AN ABANDONED MISCBEANT. 317 

gallows^ and scrupled not to aver^ two days be- 
fore his execution, that I had been his intended 
victim. 

The career of that abandoned man discloses an 
extent of turpitude rarely equalled, and never sur- 
passed. It is fearful to contemplate so vile a being; 
and to have merited the hatred of such a monster 
almost constitutes an honour. 

I derived my mformation respecting him from an 
officer of this prison, who had served with him in the 
same regiment ; and from his unhappy daughter, in 
the presence of the matron, I learned that portion of 
his atrocity which had made her its victim. 

Hewson had been a private soldier in the 2nd or 
Queen's regiment, and accompanied that corps to 
India. There his bad conduct entfuled upon him 
severe punishments, until at length, under the hope 
of eluding military restraint, he proclaimed himself to 
have been the murderer of Mrs. Donatty, an old 
woman who had resided near Gray's Inn Boad, 
whose death was involved in mystery, and whose de- 
stroyer has not to this day been discovered. 

The truthless confession of this miserable trickster 
was transmitted to England, and consigned to the 
scrutiny of the police authorities, who soon detected 
the fabrication of the whole narrative ; and the re^- 
mcnt was duly apprised of the imposture. 



ii» 



nKAO% WAMf JUn> ABTSHTtms. 



- Knim the moiMiit tiiftt Hewmn had ded^ 
itif to be a murderar ba had been atxietljr ooofiaei 
aad^ ftr greater l ae uiity^ kept in irons; hat m 
•ooner wat it g te o^ erad that be had praGtinda 
gioai ftaadf and hj its meana iiad robbed die w 
iJaumf nf ■ enHinrti enrrinm. then he wastnedlijf 

eoort mirlial fior diet ofleoM^ aii4» u^^ 
leoeiTed two hundred htfdbee. 

When dieohiMVod frwi the r^gimMitt he f<^^ 
Ihghiid with Ub wife and daughter. The ftmvi 
worn oot bj grief ariaiii^ from his bmtal treetmeB^ 
(ffied preinstordjr. BBs dan^ter epoke aflbolioDitelf 
of her mother, sad attnbiited her' own perffidoe to 
her modier'e loee. 

Apoordiiig to' die pdVi aocoont, her fiidier eane 
home one night half drank, and wickedly assailed Iier. 
She was then onlj fifteen years of age> and implored 
his pitj and forbearance; but in spite of her cries and 
entreaties, the monster effected by force the ruin of 
his own child. She was constrained to silence by 
his savage threats of vengeance should she disclose 
the secret ; and under the influence of a terror she 
could not subdue, she was chained to a cohabitation 
with her own father for seven years ; all that time, 
as she averred, leading a life of i)overty, drudgery, 
and wretchedness, owing equally to his abandoned 
habits, and to her own reflections. 



INCEST AND MUBDBB. 319 

There Is, I fear^ no doubt that three cluldren, the 
fruit of that incestuous intercourse, were destroyed 
by their unnatural father, and, according to his own 
acknowledgment, consigned to drains or cesspools. 
At length, however, the circumstances attending the 
fate of the last child caused proceedings to be insti- 
tuted against both father and daughter, who were 
arraigned upon a charge of wilful murder. The 
capital charge was not sustained ; but the two were 
convicted of the minor offence of '^concealing the 
birth," and received sentence, he of two years', and 
she of eighteen months', imprisonment, with hard 
labour. 

Hewson was a man of tall and comely appearance, 
with occasionally a good address. He was poorly 
educated, but was naturally acute and intelligent. 
He was, however, restless, self-willed, and revengeful 
to the last degree. His daughter affirmed that he 
had often, when free, gone about armed with a knife, 
with the avowed intent to inflict bodily harm, even 
for a casual offence. 

He seemed to gloat over the desire to fix a charge 
of murder upon his daughter. At his pressing 
instance, police officers twice attended here to re- 
ceive his statements against her, while he perfectly 
wearied me by the repetition of those shocking 
charges. 



sively, denounced hia matchless vil 
her fate in such piteous accents 
heart must have been touched bj 
roused into indignation by the f 
disclosed. 

She Bolemnl; averred, and her d 
to the truth of her assertion, thai 
dread of his fury had retained he 
The utmost limits of the kingdom n 
she said, unequal to save her. " 
exclaimed wildly, " there was no g 
him. He would never have rested 
my life!" She was apparently a 
quite unequal to contend with such 
I felt so strongly that she was the 
of a horrible combination of circums 
had not the courage and enei^y t 
thenceforth felt the utmost commi 
so supremely unfortunate. 

On the morDiDg of her father's < 
down to the females' ward at eight ( 



MATILDA HEWSON. 321 

fatal consummatioii had passed by) her tears were 
dried^ and her appearance betokened perfect com- 
posure. From that time forth during*her imprison* 
ment, she was cheerful, active, and seemingly happy. 
An intolerable weight of misery had been removed 
from her mind, and she became animated by hopefiil 
confidence. On her discharge she was effectually 
befriended by some Samaritan ladies, who had been 
urged into exertion by pity for a young creature so 
wronged and ruined. The last accounts I heard 
were favourable to her well-doing. She had changed 
her name, and was enjoined to lock her horrible 
secret within her own breast. 

Again, on the 29th May in the present year, 
a square piece of stone, weighing 3 lb. 9 oz., was 
hurled from a ceU, with great muscular force, at my 
head by a convict named Alexander Goods (late a 
private soldier in the 56th regiment), who was under 
a sentence of transportation for fourteen years, for a 
murderous assault on a sergeant. That award was 
still further augmented by a sentence of two years 
in this prison, for a like offence upon a warder in 
Millbank prison, but of still greater aggravation. 

A sudden movement on my part providentially 
brought the stone in primary contact with my arm, 
which was frightfully contused. Thence the stone, 
slanting upwards, struck and split my left ear, in- 

VOL. II. Y 



322 PEACE, WAE, AND ADVENTHEE. 

flicting a gash behind it, which bled copiouslj. The 
blow produced momentarj stupefaction, and made 
IDO stagger against a wall; but had it first assailed mj 
head, as waa intended, death would have been 'mm- 
table, and most probably install taneoua. Through 
the carelessness of a warder who had neglected to 
lock the door of a coal-cellar, opening into a yard m 
which Goods was at exercise alone, he was enabled to 
pick up and conceal a luisslle of that formidable 
nature. 

Just contiguous to the cell from which thia cow- 
ardly assault proceeded, sat upwards of ninety pri- 
eoaers at dinner ; and in the midst of the pain and 
indignity under which I was writhing, it afforded me 
unspeakable gratification to hear the Bimultaneoiu 
groan of horror and indignation which burst from 
every lip. 

Kuffiaiis disposed to go to this fell extremity Jire 
the very rare exceptions ; but it testifies to the more 
generous influences of our common nature, that, even 
amongst criminals in a state of duresse, numbers 
should always be found anxioua to rush to the ^d of 
an otherwise unprotected officer. 

During my long experience of upwards of twenty- 
three years, amongst hosts, amounting now to a 
daily average exceeding 1200 prisoners, I have seen 
brutal degeneracy in every shape, and in many 



SAYAGE OUTRAGE. — SYMPATHY OF PRISONERS. 323 

instances the most revolting wickedness. Still it is 
a pleasure to avow that, fairly contemplating the 
crime, ignorance, and depravity in which so many 
have been reared from their infancy, and the con- 
sequent absence of all that is pure and ennobling in 
the moral atmosphere they have inhaled, I have 
discovered so many traits of excellence in countless 
apparently abandoned objects, that I entertain, per* 
haps, a superior opinion of human nature to most 
others. 

I am accustomed to remark that '^the stamp of 
the Deity has not been quite effaced by the trsdl of 
the serpent ; ^ and many would be surprised to know 
the patience, die industry, the tractability, the 
grateful recognition of kindness, the prompt exten- 
sion of aid in any emergency, and the diousand 
little traits that tend to relieve the character from 
utter baseness. 

There are too many who possess innumerable faults 
and vices, and upon whom reasoning and forbearance 
are alike wasted; but by far the majority exhibit 
many redeeming virtues, which compel you to pity 
their fallen condition. While numbers are by habit 
and association hopeless, as regards thorough re- 
formation, the discipline, cleanliness, and the in- 
struction in well-ordered prisons, tend immensely to 
humanise even the worst criminals. Left unchecked 

T 8 



tat Wpg Inqpwndj Mi^^ wmA eompeOod to 
dhMOi ^ dMQBQMt €f I wiM faity, tiM tOBdeiiqr to 
vrinaifeid {pviimen fa QiieelQo4» and 0^ 
InIIw poMqpli nfiDMd i*to thorn. 

ladaec^ tiie hugmnmrnrndB ct Hm pmcm n lii 
die m t tw ^o K ^ the pnmoAmoi echotioBi 
cig Mii i aliuu of Iho Mur polioe toMim 

wai Ad npraMMNi of crimaw Tlie gtofttert hqbiImk 
tf iwmmU ii finto to tlk friMM^ oittoe Ho enb&mt 

ooo ttfw d m the 3rB« 18M ; oiaee wlneh time, tlie ^ 
tnrini of bna&iei in IMttWleeeai and il|o mijmmg 
eomitiQi^ the tait neroeoe of the meferopolitaii po- 
poktim, end the eehiged powers confened upon 
the polioe courts by the police act, would, prima 
faciey lead to the expectation of a proportionate in- 
crease of convictions. The relative numbers, how- 
ever, disclose a signal and gratifying proof of a 
diminution of crime. They stand thus : 



Commitments for the year ending Michaelmas, 1832 
Commitments for the year ending Michaelmas, 1852 

Reduction - - - 



- 12,543 

- 9,227 

- 3,816 



Sift these numbers by any or every test, the 
result remains, I affirm, unimpeachable. 

The attention of the authorities ^hould^ however, 



RESULTS OF SOCIAL IMPBOYEMENTS. 325 

be directed) with a view more effectually to promote 
the moral improvement of the masses^ to the dwellings 
of the poor, and to the purification of the vile neigh- 
bourhoods which now abound in the metropolis^ and 
equally so in populous manufacturing towns. In my 
very last conversation with the late Mrs. Fry (whose 
memory I devoutly honour)^ at a moment when health 
was fast failing her^ that gifted woman spoke with 
much energy of the class to which she had rendered 
such great services ; and she concluded by imploring 
of me to let no opportunity be lost of impressing that 
vital subject upon those in power^ with whom I might 
converse. ** What avails" she asked emphatically^ 
" our teaching and exertions in prisons^ when the in- 
mates are afterwards to be consigned to those dens of 
iniquity ?" I express my own strong convictions on 
that pointy fortified by an opinion which none wiU 
gainsay. 



THE END. 



J 



Nn-HIMt- Sqnu*.