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Full text of "Picturesque Chicago"

917.731 

C4311p 

1882 






H 

I^HN 
HHHn 





LIBRARY OF THE 
UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS 
AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 

IN MEMORY OF 

STEWART S. HOWE 

JOURNALISM CLASS OF 1928 



STEWART S. HOWE FOUNDATION 

917.731 

C4311p 

1882 



I.H.S. 






HIGAGO GNGI^AVING OMPANY, 

CHICAGO. 



THIRD EDITION. 














COPYRIGHT 1879 and 1882. 
All Rights Reserved. 




C<43Hp 




ENTRANCE TO HARBOR. 



(9HIGAGO. 

fHILE Chicago has its "picturesque" side, it is essentially "Heroic," and a truth- 
ful sketch of its rise and progress must necessarily receive heroic treatment. 
Other cities have originated and grown on account of the picturesqueness of 
the sites on which they were located, and the business, which represents the 
heroic side of cities, has come to them subsequently, as an accompaniment to 
the picturesque, but Chicago presents the reverse of this order. Her site lay in 
the pathway of an immense commercial traffic, that, half a century ago, was to 
be. Naturally, there was little to commend it to the few adventurous spirits 
who first, literally, "drove their stakes." and erected their tents along the low 
margins of the sluggish stream, whose waters, with difficulty, found a devious 
way to the broad Lake, in whose bosom they were to be lost. Nor were those 
early settlers gifted with any unusual foresight, which enabled them to lift the 
veil of the future, and solace themselves in their present hardships, with a 
glimpse of the glories that awaited them, or their children, in the not distant years to come. They were 
simply the pioneers who were to lay the foundations of " the promised land," of which but few were to 
enter upon and enjoy, as a reward for pioneer work. In the olden times, fifty years was but a brief period 
in the growth of nations and empires ; to-day it represents the accomplishment of the work of former centu 
ries. Thus Chicago can be compared with no cities of the Old World. 

The first settlement of Chicago may be dated in 1832, or just half a century ago. A small fort had been 
erected near the mouth of the Chicago River, and the General Government had surveyed and located the 
"Illinois and Michigan Canal" to connect the waters of the Illinois River with those of Lake Michigan, and 





COPYRIGHT. 



COURT HOUSE. 



made a grant of land to aid in its construction. These preliminary steps had attracted immigration, and laid 
the foundations of the present city of Chicago. The settlers found a low, wet prairie, or marsh, with here and 
there slightly elevated plats that served for building sites and gardens. It was not until 1833 that the village 
was organized, the vote in favor of incorporation standing eleven to one, which comprised all the eligible 
voters at that time. Later in the same season, the number of voters had increased to twenty-eight. 

The early growth of Chicago was not phenomenal. There was nothing in the town site itself, nor in its 
surroundings to attract immigration. On the contrary, there were many repulsive features. The broad 
marshes, which not only surrounded, but constituted a goodly portion of the incipient town itself, offered few 
attractions to the early pioneers, who were mostly farmers seeking new farm homes in the "far West." And 
then there were the Indians sometimes friendly, sometimes hostile, but always treacherous and unreliable 
to act as a drawback, and in various ways to retard the growth of the settlement. But, as has well been said, 
"there is a Divinity that shapes our ends, rough hew them how we will." It is not to be supposed that the most 
hopeful or visionary of those early settlers ever dreamed of what the next half century was to bring forth, for the 
town, they had voted to incorporate. Even from a commercial point of view, there was everything to discour- 
age. The vast stretch of low prairie, n.ot to say marsh, that surrounded the town, effectually cut them off from 
the interior settlements for a greater or less portion of the year. The construction of highways, by which the 
products of the farmers of the interior could find their way to Chicago as a port of shipment, was an Herculean 
task and was hardly undertaken for years. But still the town grew. In 1834 the first store was erected south 
of the river, or in what is now the " South-Division." This was on Lake Street, and for many years after, that 
constituted the main business thoroughfare of the city. 

In 1837 Chicago was incorporated as a city, with a population of 4 170 souls, all told. It is to be supposed 
that its citizens fully appreciated the added dignity of being denizens of a real city, though the historian does 
not record the exact date when they actually " put on city airs." The first United States census of the city was 
taken in 1840, when the population was 4,479. The city was then, as a settlement, eight years old. Up to this 




THE PAVILION IN HUMBOLDT PARK. 



time, the progress of the town had nothing in it suggestive of the future, either in population or commercial 
growth. Its commerce was confined to exchanges with the surrounding settlements within ' hauling distance." 
But already the wonderful productiveness of Illinois prairies had become pretty generally known, and the 
foundations for the greatest primary grain and provision market in the world had actually been laid, through 
the medium of what were then known as "prairie schooners," the large covered wagons that brought in the 
products of the farm and freighted back the "store goods" to be distributed to the interior country towns. 
But few at that time appreciated the fact, for Chicago city property was at a low ebb, and many a possible for- 
tune was disposed of " for a song" that its owner might be enabled to seek some more promising locality. 

In spite of all disadvantages, the city grew. Was it the hand of Fate? The State census in 1845 showed a 
population of 12,088, not quite trebling in five years. Another half decade showed an equal increase, the 
United States census in 1850 disclosing a population of 29,963 in round numbers, 30,000! In the meantime, 
the canal had been completed, and for about two years had been pouring into Chicago granaries the wealth of 
the Illinois valley farms. Lake commerce had attained to fair proportions, and regular lines of " upper lake 
steamers " unloaded immense cargoes of merchandise and passengers, and reloaded with equally rich cargoes of 
grain and provisions for the Eastern markets. The wonderful railroad system that has since contributed to the 
expansion of Chicago's commercial greatness was then in embryo. The Galena road, the only railroad ever 
built "out of Chicago," had reached Elgin, and was bringing in the products of the Pox River valley. Two 
lines from the East, the Michigan Central and the Michigan Southern, were in active rivalry to see which 
should first reach Chicago, and the Illinois Central was in course of construction to reach the city from the 
south. 

The second decennial State census in 1855 showed the wonderful influence of the introduction of the new 
element of greatness railroads in a population of a round 80,000. This was a second almost trebling of pop- 
ulation in the brief period of five years. The next half decade showed but slight progress the United States 
census of 1860 giving the city but 109,206. For this comparative standstill there were several reasons. The 




COPYRIGHT. 



ALDINE SQUARE. 






country had just passed through the financial crisis of 1837, and business of all kinds was everywhere at its 
lowest ebb. The finances and currency of the country was in a very unsatisfactory condition. The bank bills 
of the several States were hardly current outside of the States in which they were issued, and breaking banks 
were creating consternation in business circles at alarmingly frequent intervals. Our productive industries, 
what few we had, were bankrupt and idle, while agricultural products hardly paid the cost of growing them. 
The "boom" imparted to the growth of the city by the completion of several important lines of railways, dur- 
ing the first half of the decade, had no counterpart in the latter half. But while there was little to boast of in 
the way of growth of population, the city was by no means idle. Many of the great improvements which sub- 
sequently contributed so much to its metropolitan character, were inaugurated during this period. Among 
these was the raising the grade of the city from six to tea feet, which necessitated the lifting of entire blocks of 
stores, hotels and residences that distance above their foundations, making practical our present system of 
sewerage, tunneling the lake for a copious supply of pure water, the system of street railways, which has since 
grown to such wonderful proportions, and others which will be subsequently spoken of. 

The third decennial State census, in 1865, gave the city a population of 178,492, showing a fair growth, 
considering that during the most of that time the country was engaged in a deadly civil struggle for its 
national integrity, if not for its national existence. Five years later, 1870, the United States census gave the 
city a population of 298,977, though a city census of the same year placed it at 303,605, which was probably 
the nearer to the correct number. The last decennial United States census gave the population of the city at 
503,185, showing a fair comtnencem3nt on the second half million. At the rate of growth during the last half 
decade, it is probably safe to put the present population at 600,000. With this brief outline of the early settle- 
ment of the city, it will be in order to refer more particularly to the various improvements which have been 
inaugurated, and so far completed as to transform the unsightly and unattractive marsh of half a century 
ago into one of the most magnificent cities, as well as one of the most wonderful marts of trade of modern times. 
One of the first essentials of all great cities, in a sanitary point of viaw, is a liberal system of Parks. 





STATE STREET, LOOKING SOUTH FROM RANDOLPH. 



7T7HILE, as a matter of fact, Chicago might have dispensed with this luxury, as a sanitary measure, her mag- 
^-~' nificent Lake front, twelve miles in extent, assuring her, for all time, a pure, invigorating atmosphere, she 
by no means contented herself with that natural provision. No American city to day can boast of so extensive 
and munificent a system of Parks as Chicago. Her twelve miles of Lake front is supplemented by a cordon of 
splendid Parks, extending from the Lake shore on the north, around tli3 present city limits to the Lake shore on 
the south, all connected by magnificent boulevards, which, when all completed, will present the most extensive, 
as well as the most attractive, system of alternate resorts and driveways to be found in the world. Of the 
23,140 acres area of the city, 2,300 acres are devoted to Parks. Space will not allow a historical sketch of the 
founding and improvement of the several Parks, in detail, nor is it needed, in this brief sketch. 

The Parks are divided into three systems, each of which has its separate and independent government in 
its respective Board of Commissioners. LINCOLN PARK, in the North Division, comprises a tract of ons hun- 
dred and twenty acres, lying along the Lake shore from North Avenue northward into the town of Lake View. 
This is the oldest of the large Parks, and its improvements have reached the fullest state of development. It is 
the nearest to the business centre of the city, and is probably the most popular as a place of resort. It is about 
two miles from the Court House. Including the magnificent L:ike Shore Drive, it presents many attractions to 
the visitor. The Pavilion is but one of its many picturesque and charming scenes. 

West from LINCOLN PAUK some three miles is HUMBOLDT PARK, the most northerly of the West Park 
system. This is to be connected with LINCOLN PARK by a grand boulevard or driveway. Considerable pro- 
gress has been made in the way of beautifying and improving this Park, and it already forms a chosen place of 
resort for the denizens of the northwestern portion of the city. Its lakes, drives and walks present many var- 
ied and charming landscape pictures and scenes. The Park comprises a tract of 225 acres, and the plans 
comprise some of the most elaborate and striking improvements, among which we may mention the "mall," the 
terrace, the monumental fountain, the "mammoth cave, "etc. 




COPTRIOHT. 



PAVILION IN LINCOLN PARK. 










Running south and west from HUMBOLDT PARK is Central Boulevard, a very elaborately designed drive- 
way, connecting this with GARFIELD PARK. The northern portion of this Boulevard is 400 feet in width, 
providing for a central drive, two side drives, two equestrian roads and two sidewalks or pedestrian ways, each 
divided from the other by rows of trees and grass plats. The southern portion of the boulevard, forming the 
approach to GARFIELD PARK, is 250 feet in width, elaborately improved and decorated. 

GARFIELD PARK (formerly CENTRAL), constituting the center of the West Park system, comprises an area 
of 185 acres. The improvements in this Park, though by no means finished, have reached a fair state of 
perfection, affording many attractive features and charming vistas. One of the notable sights here is the " Fire 
Monument," commemorative of the great conflagration of 1871, and of the world's generosity on that occasion. 
The landscape architecture of the Park is elaborate and beautiful, comprising lakes, islands, serpentine canals, 
hills, vales, drives, walks, groves and grass plats. This Park lies due west from the Court House at a distance 
of about four miles, and is reached direct by Washington Boulevard, which forms its grand entrance. The 
beautiful and enchanting view of the Lake in GARFIELD PARK is but one of its many attractive vistas. 

Leading south from GARFIELD PARK is DOUGLAS PARK Boulevard, connecting it with DOUGLAS PARK. This 
boulevard is 250 feet in width throughout its entire' length. Its plan comprises a central wooded lawn 150 feet 
wide, with two driveways each forty feet wide, and a space on either side of twenty five feet for trees and walks. 

DOUGLAS PARK, the southernmost of the West Park system, comprises an area of 180 acres, reaching as far 
south as Nineteenth Street. It is some four miles, in a southwesterly direction, from the Court House, being 
reached direct by Ogden Avenue. The distinctive feature of this Park is the extent of its ornamental lake 
systems, providing ample space for rowing and aquatic sports. The principal Lake is near the center of the 
Park, from which arms extend north and south, reaching nearly to either limit of the Park. This extent 
of water surface affords ample opportunity for ornamental, rustic and massive architectual bridge structures 
which form one of the unique features of the Park. Charming island scenery and waterfalls also add to the 
picturesqueness of the place. 




COPYRIGHT. 



THE LAKE IN GARFIELD PARK. 



THE SOUTH PARK SYSTEM, under the charge of a distinct Board of Commissioners, comprises SOUTH 
PARK, proper, with its area of about 500 acres, extending from Fifty-first Street on the north to Sixtieth Street 
on the south, and lying between Cottage Grove and Kankakee Avenues; EAST, or JACKSON PARK, with an area 
of 500 acres, extending from Fifty-seventh Street on the north to Sixty -seventh Street on the south, and lying 
between Hyde Park Avenue and the Lake shore; the middle Plaisance, a water and driveway 600 feet wide 
between Sixtieth and Fifty-ninth streets, connecting the two Parks, and Grand and Drexel Boulevards forming 
the northern approach to SOUTH PARK. The improvement of the SOUTH PARK system was not commenced 
until 1874, but the work since that date has been prosecuted with commendable zeal. Drives, walks, lagoons, 
lakes and winding water ways have been constructed; groves planted and cultivated, and the South and 
East Parks now furnish one of the most beautiful and charming resorts. The most noticeable features of the 
SOUTH PARK system are its two magnificent driveways Grand and Drexel Boulevards. Grand Boulevard, 
the westernmost of these, runs from Thirty -fifth Street south to Fifty-first Street where it forms the grand 
entrance to SOUTH PARK. It is 200 feet in width, the center, sixty feet, forming a grand driveway for 
recreation only. On each side of this are grass plats planted with rows of forest trees. Outside of these, on 
each side, is a traffic roadway, each bordered with a broad sidewalk for pedestrians, the whole forming 
a magnificent boulevard, down through whose shady vistas the visitor looks entranced. Its length is 
about two miles. Drexel Boulevard runs parallel with the Grand, three blocks to the eastward, commencing 
near Thirty-ninth Street or the city limits. It is elaborately improved, and is said to have been modeled after 
the Avenue L'Imperatrice, of Paris, the most beautiful street in the world. Drexel Boulevard is 200 feet wide 
throughout its extent. Ninety feet in the center is devoted to the planting of forest trees, shrubbery, 
flower beds and winding walks, this central portion being raised considerably above the driveways on each 
side, which are forty feet in width, outside of which are sidewalks fifteen feet in width. Every block of the 
central Parkway is distinguished by a different ornamentation different variety of trees, shrubbery and 
flowers. The Boulevard extends from the city limits Thirty-ninth Street to Fifty -first Street Boulevard. 




GRAND BOULEVARD. 



where it enters SOUTH PARK, widening at the entrance to 400 feet. Grand and Drexel Boulevards are 
connected at Fortieth Street by Oakwood Boulevard, a beautifully improved driveway, bordered by broad 
grass plats, outside of which are finely paved sidewalks. 

Running west from SOUTH PARK is PAVILION PARK Way at Fifty -fifth Street. This is 200 feet wide with 
a planting space in the center ninety feet in width, with driveways and sidewalks on each side, running west to 
Western Avenue, thence northward to connect with DOUGLAS PARK, completing the grand cordon of Parks 
and Boulevards around the city. 

This completes the list of large Parks which will furnish to a city of even a million of inhabitants 
magnificent resorts for health and recreation. No other city on the continent can boast so liberal a provision 
as Chicago in this respect. In addition to the large Parks of the three systems, there are numerous smaller 
Parks scattered here and there in the residence portions of the city, furnishing convenient breathing places and 
resorts. Among these we may mention UNION, JEFFERSON and VERNON PARKS on the West Side. The first 
named is the oldest and most elaborately improved in the city. It lies between Lake and Madison Streets, 
north and south, with Ashland Avenue on the west and Ogden Avenue and Bryan Place on the east. 
JEFFERSON PARK lies a few blocks distant a little east of south and occupies one block. Some five blocks 
south of the latter is VERNON PARK of about the same size. 

In the South Division are LAKE PARK, lying between Michigan Avenue and the Lake shore, extending 
from Jackson Street south to Twelfth Street; GROVELAND PARK, south of Thirty-third Street, between 
Cottage Grove Avenue and the Lake shore, and together with WOODLAND PARK extending south to Thirty- 
fifth Street. ELLIS PARK lies between Prospect Place and Thirty-seventh Street, Vincennes and Cottage 
Grove Avenues. 

WASHINGTON SQUARE in the North Division comprises one block in the midst of a beautiful residence 
section. A large fountain occupies the center, the balaace baiiig laid out in walks, grass plats, and planted 
with forest trees. 



DOUGLAS &OHUHBHV. 

TN connection with a description of the Parks of Chicago should come a brief account of the DOUGLAS 
* MONUMENT, erected in commemoration of the life and services of STEPHEN A. DOUGLAS, the eminent 
patriot and statesman the citizen whom for many years Illinois delighted to honor. Soon after the death of 
Senator Douglas, in 1881, the question of the erection of a monument suitable to the greatness of the eminent 
citizen, in the home of his adoption, was raised, and soon thereafter the necessary steps were taken to 
inaugurate the work. But it was not until the year 1878 that the work was completed, and the informal 
ceremony of unveiling the statue finally took place. The DOUGLAS MONUMENT, as now completed, stands in 
beautifully improved grounds on the Lake shore, at the head of Douglas Avenue (Thirty-fifth Street) in the 
immediate vicinity of the former home of the statesman, still known as the " Douglas Cottage." The 
monument consists of an octagonal base coping of limestone seventy feet in diameter. Upon this are three 
circular bases forming the substructure of New England granite, the first of which is a little over forty-two 
feet in diameter, the height of the three together being four and a fourth feet. Upon this substructure is the 
octagonal tomb, twenty and a quarter feet in diameter and ten feet in height, also of New England granite, 
within which rest the mortal remains of the great Senator, within an iron casket, which is placed in a white 
marble sarcophagus lined with lead. These are guarded by a heavy wrought iron grated door, with padlock, 
and an inner iron safe-door with combination lock. The pedestal of the superstructure, octagonal in form, is 
fifteen feet in diameter and nearly nineteen feet high. Upon this sets the base of the column, of burnished 
New England granite, about forty-six and a half feet in height, being five and one-sixth feet in diameter at base 
and three and a half feet at the top The cap of the column including the ornamental frieze and the statue 
base is six and a half feet high. The colossal bronze statue of Douglas surmounting the top of the column, 
looking eastward over the Lake, is nine feet nine inches high, making the entire height of the monument nine- 
ty-five feet nine inches. The four pedestals at the base are occupied by heroic-size bronze statues, representing 
Illinois, History, Justice and Eloquence in sitting attitudes. 




DOUGLAS MONUMENT. 



WATERWORKS CRIB. 



SUPPLY. 

f rS tlie next in importance, in a sanitary rjoint of view, the necessity of an abundant supply of pure water 
j * had been felt for some time, and it was finally decided to draw that supply from the bottom of the Lake, 
so far out as to avoid all impurities from the shore. To do this required a tunnel from the shore under the 
Lake a distance of two miles. There a crio was constructed in which was sunk a shaft to connect with 
the shore tunnel. The tunnel was commenced in 1864, and was placed eighty feet beneath the surface. 
On the completion of the crib, work on the tunnel was carried on from both ends. The work was Successfully 
completed in three years, and in 1867 water was distributed through the city. The pumping works arc located 
at the foot of Chicago Avenue near the Lake shore. The water let into the tunnel from the crib flows through 
it to the pumping works whence it is forced to the top of the water tower and thence distributed through the 
city in immense iron mains, from which branch off the smaller water pipes for street and house supplies. 
In 1873 a second tunnel was commenced extending from the crib to near the corner of Ashland Avenue 
and West Twenty-second Street, a distance of nearly five miles, three of which were under the city. The West 
Side Pumping Works, at the southwestern extremity of the second Lake tunnel, were completed in 1878, since 
which time the supply of pure Lake water in all parts of the city has been abundant and unfailing. Thus the 
WATER SUPPLY of Chicago has involved two really wonderful engineering feats that have not their counter- 
part in the Western World. The North Side Water Works with their massive pumping engines, is one of the 
attractive sights for visitors. The works comprise four immense engines, that in case of accident to one, others 
may be used, that the supply may at all times be kept good. 

Stl'HHHLS. 

/^HE two tunnels under the Chicago River constitute another of Chicago's great engineering feats. These 
^~' were undertaken to, in a measure, relieve the bridges of a portion of their immense traffic, and to furnish 
a means of connection between the several divisions of the city unobstructed by the demands of navigation. 







COPYRIGHT 



ENGINES NORTH SIDE WATERWORKS. 



The Washington Street Tunnel, under the South Branch, connecting the West and South Divisions, was 
commenced in 1886, and was completed in 1868. The tunnel comprises a double carriage way, reaching from 
Franklin Street on the South Side to Clinton Street on the West Side; and a footway with approaches 
on Market and Canal Streets on opposite sides of the river. La Salle Street Tunnel, under the main river, 
connects the South and North Divisions. With the experience acquired in the construction of the Washing- 
ton Street Tunnel, this was a more perfect structure. It was commenced in 1869 and completed in 1871. The 
South Side entrance to the carriageway is at Randolph Street, the tunnel passing under Lake and South Water 
Streets, and emerging on the North Side at Michigan Street passing under North Water, and Kinzie Streets on 
that side. The entrance to the footway on the South Side is near South Water Street, and on the North 
Side near North Water Street. There is no leakage in this tunnel, and both the carriage and footways are 
always dry and pleasant. 

HIGAGO BRIDGES. 

TH nearly twenty-three miles of navigable water course through its business centers, its bridges 
necessarily form an important feature in Chicago's internal economy. Altogether there are twen- 
ty-four swinging bridges. Pour of these span the main river. Rush Street Bridge is first from the mouth of 
the river. Following this west come State, Clark and Wells Street Bridges. These connect the North and 
South Divisions and are subjected to an immense traffic. Over the South Branch, connecting the South and 
West Divisions there are thirteen bridges. These are known by the streets on which they occur: first, Lake; 
second, Randolph; third, Madison; fourth, Adams; fifth, Van Buren; sixth, Harrison; seventh, Polk; eighth. 
Twelfth; ninth, Eighteenth; tenth, Twenty-second; eleventh, Halsted; twelfth. Ashland Avenue; thirteenth, 
Archer Avenue. Over the North Branch, connecting the North and West Divisions, there are eight. Kin/.ic. 
Erie, Chicago Avenue, Halsted, Division, two, North Avenue and Clybourn Place. With Chicago's immense 
Lake commerce, amounting in the aggregate to over four thousand arrivals and departures, during the season, 
nearly all of which pass the Main River bridges, it is, if anything, strange that there are not more conflicts 




STATE STREET, LOOKING SOUTH FROM MONROE. 




between the land and water traffic. Still, so complete is the management of this part of the city service, that 
there is seldom cause for complaint. 



/p3?HICAGO has long borne the honor of being the greatest primary grain market of the world, her annual 
^-^ receipts and shipments having reached the vast total of over 100,000,000 bushels. As a necessary 
adjunct to such a vast trade, her immense elevators form a conspicuous feature in her architecture. Nearly 
the entire amount of grain received and shipped, pass through these elevators, of which there are between 
twenty-five and thirty, with an aggregate storage capacity of over twenty million bushels. These are located 
mostly along the river from its mouth to either extremity of the city, and towering above most of their 
surroundings, from an elevated position are easily distinguishable. Some of these are immense and 
massive structures, with a capacity for storing 2,500,000 bushels of grain. Supplementary to these 
mammoth receptacles of the agricultural products of a large proportion of the great West are 

HE SllOG^ '(/AI^DS, 

ICH enable Chicago to hold the same place of superiority as a Live Stock and Provision Market 
that she holds as a grain market. THE UNION STOCK YARDS of Chicago are the largest and in 
all their arrangements, the most perfect of their kind in tbe world. These Yards are located just south of 
the city limits, in the town of Lake, the extension of Halsted Street south, forming the eastern line of the 
Yards. They occupy 343 acres of ground, which is admirably laid out and improved, for the purposes 
to which it is devoted. Owing to the character of the ground, ample drainage had to be provided for. 
This was secured by a most elaborate system of sewerage. This was effected by a large main sewer along 
Halsted Street, nearly a mile in extent, connecting with the South Branch of the river, and to which the 
entire network of sewerage under the Yards lead. This comprises no less than thirty miles of sewers, 
which effect a most perfect drainage, a perfectly dry and solid foundation for the 500 cattle pens, and 




ClirVKIUllT. 



CHICAGO RIVER FROM WELLS STREET BRIDGE, LOOKING WEST. 



other structures necessary to the successful transaction of the immense business which centers here from all 
portions of the Great West. The cattle pens vary in size from twenty by thirty-five feet to eighty-five by one 
hundred and twelve feet, while there are others of the size of a stock car intended to receive a single car load of 
stock These pens are all arranged on regular streets which intersect all portions of the grounds at regular 
intervals, and nothing is left undone that could facilitate and expedite the transaction of business. The 
STOCK YARDS constitute in themselves a distinct and well ordered community. They have their bank, 
their hotel and their own internal police. All the principal western, southern and northern railroads 
have their direct connections with the YARDS and each has its own facilities for unloading its stock with 
the utmost convenience and expedition, comprising 1,000 feet of platform, provided with "shoots" leading 
directly into the yards and pens of the division appropriated to the use of such road. Thus not only may an 
entire train be unloaded at once, but a half dozen trains from as many different roads may be unloaded at the 
same time. The means are afforded for unloading or loading at the same time 500 cars of stock, comprising 
cattle, horses, sheep and hogs. Facilities for slaughtering provided by the principal packing houses are unsur- 
passed and unequaled in the world. Visitors to Chicago, especially during the busy packing season, say 
between November and March, who fail to visit the STOCK YARDS and witness the process of slaughtering, 
certainly neglect one of the most wonderful, if not most interesting, sights in the world. 

HE I?AG^ING BUSINESS, 

S might be inferred from the above, is one of the most extensive interests of the city. The annual receipts 
of live stock at the Yards average about 8,000,000 head of all kinds, of which one million and a quarter 
are cattle, six and a half million, hogs, and the balance, sheep. Of the cattle, about 800000 head are slaugh- 
tered and packed in this city, while of the hogs about 5,000.090 are slaughtered and packed here. In the beef 
packing and canning industry, which is every year increasing, there are seven or eight large establishments 
which slaughter and pack nearly the entire lot. This would be at the rate of over 2.500 head for every work- 
ing day in the year, but the great bulk of this work is done iu fall and winter months, from November to 




BEAR PIT, LINCOLN PARK. 



TROPICAL PLANTS, SOUTH PARK. 




March. Hence the slaughter of 2,000 to 3,000 head of cattle per day is no unusual event in several of the 
larger establishments, where the business is necessarily reduced to a science, and proceeds with the regularity 
of clockwork. About $2,000,000 capital is invested in this business, nearly 3,000 hands employed, and the 
annual value of product is nearly $12,000,000. The pork packing industry is prosecuted on a still more gigan- 
tic scale. Though the business is carried on throughout the year, the great bulk of the work is done during 
the late fall and winter months, the season being confined to about 100 working (lays, during which time, by 
far the greatest proportion of the 5,000,009 hogs are slaughtered and packed. This work is mostly done by 
about twenty large houses, which cut an average of over 30.000 head each during the 100 days of the season. 
The entire capacity of the packing houses is 86,000 head per day, if the hogs could be obtained. One house 
has a slaughtering capacity of 20,000 head per day. The twenty houses referred to do most of the slaughter- 
ing, while there are some thirty-five smaller concerns which operate principally in dressed hogs. This indus- 
try employs about 7,500 hands during the busy season. The annual value of the product is about $30,000,000. 
These immense figures in brief will give the reader an idea of the wonderful industry which supplements the 
business of the Union Stock Yards. 

Hardly second in importance to her capacious elevators for storing grain, or her STOCK YARDS which 
receive the great bulk of the cattle, hogs and sheep of the stock-raising regions of the West, is 

HIGAGO SHIPPING. 

7i\HICH not only takes the greater portion of this grain, provisions, etc., on its way to the eastern markets, 
>'' but brings to this wonderful mart the coal, lumber, dry goods, iron ores, and raw materials to supply its 
own wants and to distribute over the western half of this continent. As showing the extent and importance of 
this branch of Chicago's trade, it may be stated that the arrivals at and departures from this port exceed those of 
New York, Boston and Baltimore on the Atlantic coast combined. And yet so quietly has this immense Lake 
traffic grown up. that it is taken as a matter of course, but rarely occasioning more than a passing remark. At 




DEARBORN STREET, LOOKING NORTH FROM MONROE. 



one time it was thought that the railroads would so far absorb the carrying trade that the magnificent water 
way formed by the great chain of Lakes, of almost a thousand miles iu extent along our northern boundary, 
would lapse into desuetude, but the annual increase of the carrying capacity of our shipping, and the great im- 
provement in the character of both steam and sailing vessels of late years, shows that this great natural 
highway of commerce will hold its own against the competition of the iron horse. Still though Chicago 
owes so much to her wonderful shipping facilities, she has availed herself of all advantages of 

FjAILif^OADS. 

ONE of the great contributors to Chicago's growth and greatness is the wonderful system of railroads 
that find here their final center. It would be too great a task for a sketch of this kind to undertake 
to particularize the various lines of railway that concentrate the business of the Great West at this point. 
They stretch their iron arms to Lake Superior, Red River and Lake Winnepeg on the north, to the 
headwaters of the M ssouri, Oregon and Washington Territory in the northwest, to Colorado, Utah and 
California in the west, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas and Mexico in the southwest, to the Gulf of Mexico on 
the south, drawing in the business from those distant points, and with a wonderful network of supplementary 
arms, covering the whole country between them and the point of concentration. We may mention such 
systems aa the Chicago & Northwestern, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul, the Chicago, Burlington & 
Quincy, the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific, the Chicago & Alton, the Illinois Central, each with their 
thousands of miles of track pouring their contributions of wealth Into Chicago's lap, and again 
distributing her manufactures and the goods of her wholesale and jobbing houses. To one who, from 
an elevated position over the center of the city, could take in at a glance the miles of moving trains coming in 
and going out, in every direction, all laden to their utmost capacity, the sight would be a wonderful and 
bewildering one. Not only has Chicago achieved the proud reputation of the greatest grain market iu the 
world, but she is equally pre-eminent as a provision market. Her trade ia cattle and hogs, and packing of beef 




ADAMS STREET, LOOKING EAST FROM ABERDEEN. 




and pork have no counterpart in the world. The cattle of Texas, Colorado, Montana, Kansas, Nebraska and 
Iowa are gathered by the hundreds of thousands, and the hogs of the Mississippi Valley and beyond, by the 
million, to rind their way, over the almost countless iron tracks, to this great mart. These are some of the 
wonderful results of the railroads, which center in Chicago, and find their greatest profit in ministering to her 
commercial greatness. 

One of the most important adjuncts to a great city is its 

FOOTED flGGOMMODAIIIONS. 

TN this respect as in so many others, Chicago stands pre-eminent. Her great caravansaries are unsurpassed 
^ in extent, magnificence and accommodations. Her principal hotels are palatial in size, architecture, 
design and finish, while the style in which they are kept would do credit to ihe oldest and most enlightened 
cities of the world. Within the space of a few blocks in the business center of the city may be found a half 
dozen hotels with the most elegant accommodations for thousands of guests, some of them covering almost 
entire blocks, and yet, notwithstanding their size, finished and furnished in a style of magnificence seldom 
equaled and never surpassed. They invite the attention and command the admiration of the intelligent and 
the refined as well as the wealthy from all parts of the world, whether on missions of business, pleasure 
or observation. Even royalty itself has not unfrequently had occasion to marvel at the magnificence 
of Chicago Hotels. We need not boast of these really wonderful structures. They are the natural 
outgrowth of western commercial greatness, and western enterprise, coupled with an intelligent appre- 
ciation 'of the "eternal fitness of things," which here finds its culmination. In addition to the great 
Hotels above referred to. there are hundreds of smaller and less pretentious Hotels whose accommodations 
are in every respect first-class, and which in cities less amply and munificently provided for, would be 
considered at the head of their class. 

Naturally in this connection should come in a few words in reference to Chicago as a summer resort. 




UOFXRIUHT. 



JACKSON STREET, LOOKING EAST FROM LA SALLE. 



(0HIGAGO AS A SUMMED 

! O people looking for wild haunts of Nature, mountain fastnesses and rural quiet, Chicago, of course, could 
not be recommended, but to the more active seekers of pleasure, who can appreciate a cool and salubrious 
atmosphere, even in the midst of business activity, no seaport offers more varied attractions. As a general 
thing, during the hottest days of summer, Chicago enjoys a wonderful immunity from the sultry, enervating 
days and nights which the denizens of most cities and towns, even on the sea coast, are so anxious to escape 
from. 

From observations carried on for a series of years, it has been definitely ascertained that the tempera- 
ture of Chicago averages at least twenty degrees below that of Boston, New York, Long Branch, Newport, 
Saratoga, Cincinnati, etc., all through the hottest portion of the summer. The palatial hotels afford the most 
luxurious accommodations, while the Parks and Boulevards offer the rarest attractions for drives and rural 
recreations. The magnflcent Lake Shore Drive to and through Lincoln Park is always cool and breezy, while 
the dancing blue waters of the Lake bear health and invigoration on every wavelet. A drive down Michigan 
Avenue Boulevard from the very heart of the city to Grand Boulevard, to South Park, back through the 
ever-changing sights of Drexel and Oakwood Boulevards in the cool of the early evening can hardly 
fail of infusing new life, buoyancy and energy to the most tired and languid frame. And a different 
excursion of almost equal inspiration may be enjoyed every day in the week. Of course Chicago 
makes no special claim as a summer resort, nor have her citizens made any move to secure recognition 
as such. Her forte is business, and yet, even business in Chicago has its aesthetic side, and the 
above hints are thrown out merely that our neighbors may know that while seeking respite from the enervation 
of sweltering offices, counting rooms and stores, during the "heated term," they can "kill two birds with one 
stone," enjoy the advantages of a cool and healthy resort, and at the same time draw inspiration from the 
tireless rush of commercial traffic in the greatest mart of the world literally, which "they are in, but 
not of." 




UUl'YKltrilT. 



LAKE SHORE DRIVE, LINCOLN PARK. 



SCHOOLS AND 

TT is vastly to the credit of the people of Chicago that in the midst of an absorbing, rushing business life 
* they have not forgotten the demands of moral and intellectual culture. Few cities have done more 
for the cause of education than Chic igo. Her schools and school-houses are models of their kind. Being 
among the first cities to adopt the free graded school system, she has never lost sight of the importance of 
keeping the cause and interest of education fully abreast of the most favored department of her internal 
economy. Ample provision has been made for giving her youth of both sexes a complete common school 
education. And not only that, but for affording to all who are disposed to avail themselves of its enlightened 
liberality, the means of acquiring a fair academic training, and laying ample foundations for a successful 
business life, or for the subsequent scholastic course for professional callings. The school-houses of Chicago, 
which now number between sixty-five and seventy, have long been the admiration, and almost wonder, of 
strangers and visitors. They are capacious and even elegant structures, architecturally, and finished and 
furnished in the most attractive style, with all the modern aids and incentives to pupils. While Chicago is not 
generally spoken of as " a city of churches," Mammon has by no means been allowed to absorb the entire atten- 
tion of its people. Nor has the building up of its miles of business blocks, for the accommodation of trade 
and commerce diverted attention entirely from the things pertaining to the world to come. The spires of 
some 265 churches pointing heavenward remind the busy denizens of the great metropolis that however deep they 
may lay their foundations here however solidly and massively they may build their business structures, their 
permanent abiding place is not here. The church architecture of Chicago will compare favorably with that 
of any other city in the country. 

<S>OMMEF?GE. 

ICAGO is essentially a commercial emporium the commercial metropolis of the great central portion 
of the country, sometimes designated the "Valley of the Mississippi," stretching from the British 
Possessions on the north to the Gulf of Mexico and Mexico on the south, and from the Alleghenies on the 




COPYRIGHT. 



PINE STREET, LOOKING NORTH FROM HURON. 



east to the foot of the Rocky Mountains on the west an empire in extent covering the entire temperate zone, 
and reaching well into the tropics, latitudinally, and comprising more than a thousand miles in extent longitudin- 
ally. This immense region has been termed "the garden of America," and for fertility and productiveness of soil 
throughout its wonderful extent, has no counterpart in the world. We have already referred to the railroads and 
the shipping which are the servants and tributors to Chicago's commercial greatness. Of the total railroad 
mileage of the United States nearly 110,000 miles one-third is tributary to Chicago, and is operated mainly 
with reference to Chicago as their entrepot of western produce, and depot of supply for merchandise and 
manufactured goods. Nearly the entire amount of breadstuffs and provisions, constituting over 54 
per cent, of the total exports of domestic merchandise of the whole country, finds its way to the sea- 
board from Chicago. A few years hence, when_ her population shall have reached the coveted MILLION, 
and beyond, it will be found that the proportion of population to its trade and commerce is still less than at 
the present time. 

Intimately connected with the growth of Chicago's population, commerce and wealth, are her 



INTERESTS. 

/^HESE form the anchor to a city's as well as a nation's growth and prosperity. The course of trade may 
^-^ change, crops may fail, and the profits of commercial traffic may decline, but the productive industries of 
a people will always fill the gap of those contingencies. While trade and commerce levy contributions on the 
world's industries passing through its hands, manufacturing industries create wealth to add to the world's store. 
And in this respect Chicago stands as almost the wonder of the world. The youngest by almost a half century 
of the great cities of the country, she to-day stands third in the amount of capital invested in the productive 
industries, in the number of hands employed, in the amount of wages paid, in the value of raw material con- 
sumed, and in the annual value of commodities produced. Proud as her citizens may feel over her growth 
in population, in the vastness of her commerce, they have still greater cause for pride in the wonderful 




COPYRIGHT. 



MADISON STREET, LOOKING EAST FROM CLARK. 







growth of her manufacturing industries. New York and Philadelphia, both comparatively old cities 
when Chicago first sprang into existence as a village on the inarsh, at the mouth of the river of that 
name, now alone surpass her m the extent and value of industrial production. Twenty years ago she could 
hardly boast a live, prosperous manufacturing establishment, and the products of her mechanics and artisans 
were confined to a mere local traffic. To-day she has nearly four thousand establishments, representing an 
invested capital of $05,000,000, and giving profitable employment to nearly 80,000 workmen, whose products 
are current in every quarter of the globe, and thus almost every civilized as well as half-civilized country on 
the face of the earth, are contributing more or less to the wealth of her citizens and to her own greatness. 
These manufacturing establishments are paying annually, in wages, to citizens of Chicago, nearly $35,000,000. 
They consume annually about $175,000,000 worth of raw material, gathered here from all portions of the 
country. The transportation of this immense volume of material furnishes in turn business for our railroads, 
and its provision furnishes employment to thousands of people in other and distant sections, and thus Chicago 
becomes the distributor as well as the gleaner and collector of wealth: The capital invested and the labor 
employed, and the raw material consumed result in the product of an annual value of nearly $230,000,000. 

We have hitherto spoken of Chicago as though it had had an unbroken course of prosperity, and really the 
visitor of to-day would hardly suspect that such was not the case. There are few evidences remaining of a 
fearful devastation having, at no distant day, swept over a large portion of the territory now presenting so 
compact and unbroken an appearance of thrift and enterprise. But such has been its experience, and a sketch 
of Chicago would be incomplete that left out a reference to the great 

0?ON FLAG RATION OH 18Z1. 

E latter part of September, 1871, had been dry and hot, and for many days m succession, a warm wind 
from the southwest had swept over the city, sucking the moisture from everything capable of drying, and 
thus preparing the conditions for the awful calamity that was to follow. Still the usual sound of a mighty 





UNION STOCK YARDS. 



traffic went on, and few, probably, thought of the possibilities which the long dry spell had provided for, 
though many marveled at the unseasonable drouth and heat of the weather. At length the entire city was like 
a tinder box. and not a few remarked, " It would be a bad time for a fire." As a sort of prelude to the awful 
finale, there had been quite an extensive fire during Saturday night, October 7, burning over several acres of 
ground in what was then called the southwestern portion of the city, covered mostly with small frame 
buildings, lumber yards, etc., lying principally between Jefferson and Canal Streets east and west, and Adams 
and Van Buren Streets north and south. This was spoken of by the Sunday morning papers as the most 
destructive fire that had visited the city for several years, but its importance was entirely lost sight of in the 
overwhelming catastrophe that followed so soon in its wake. 

Sunday evening, soon after nine o'clock, the alarm of fire was sounded from the great bell in the Court 
House tower, which had hitherto served the purpose of notifying the entire city of a fire in any portion within 
its limits. Thousands had visited the scene of Saturday night's conflagration during the Sunday following, 
and when the alarm rang out, indicating the same locality, it was very generally supposed that the still smoul- 
dering ruins had broken out again, and therefore paid little attention to the alarm at first. But soon the great 
bell was sounding the general alarm, and the weird and solemn tones went hurtling on the heated atmosphere 
to the uttermost parts of the city. The denizens of the more remote quarters, though they saw the lurid glare 
on the sky, still thought the fire must soon be extinguished, and attributed the delay in its extinction to 
the somewhat demoralized condition of the firemen from the previous night's labors. The wind was blowing a 
stroug, hot gale from the southwest, and the dry and combustible material in the immediate locality in which 
the fire had originated was eagerly licked up by the devouring element, and it was soon apparent that the fire 
department was powerless before it. But still the fight was kept up from block to block, until two of the 
largest engines were surrounded and had to be sacrificed to the flames, the firemen with difficulty saving them- 
selves. Although having started nearly a mile from the river in the direction of the fire, it was comparatively 
but a short time before the flames had leapt that feeble barrier and commenced their work of destruction 




CHICAGO TROTTING PARK. 



in the South Division. Then it was that the panic actually commenced. The business portion of the 
city, the 1 Court House, the Chamber of Commerce, the Post Office, Custom House and all the great hotels 
lay in the direct course of the flames, which it was evident no human power could stay. South, west 
and north the struggling masses of humanity were fleeing for their lives. The air soon became heated to 
the intensity of a furnace, and the thick walls of immense stone and brick structures, nominally fire proof, 
actually began to crumble and melt in the fervid heat before the flames reached them. Across the main river, 
on the North Side, directly in the central path of the fierce flames, stood the Water Works, and long before the 
intervening material had been consumed, they were on fire, and ths water supply of the entire city thus cut off. 
Soon after the Gas Works on the North Side were reached, and the North and South Sides of the city were 
left in darkness, save the glare from the burning city. And it is a fact worthy of note, that even that was far 
less than is seen from many a smaller conflagration. Entire blocks seemed to crumble and shrivel away in the 
intense heat with little flame. Southward the flames made little progress, and westward none at all. South of 
a line drawn from the origin of the fire northeasterly through to the Lake Shore hardly a block was burned. 
But to the northeast and north the flames were only stayed when the city limits and Lake were reached and 
there was no more material to feed them. 

We need not dwell on the horrors of that Sunday night and Monday. Thousands of business men resid- 
ing in the southern and western portions of the city, started for their places of business entirely unaware that 
they had been swept by the "besom of destruction" while they slept. Monday night, October 9th, 100,000 
citizens of Chicago were homeless, while the business and property of as many more had been completely 
swept away. A district nearly four miles in length by one in width, on which had stood 18,000 buildings, 
public and private, and comprising the entire business portion of the city, was covered by an unsightly mass of 
ruins, debris and ashes. The direct money loss involved in the destruction was estimated at $192,000,000. 
That was certainly not an extravagant estimate. The indirect damage resulting to the city and its people was 
placed at $100, 000, 000, making a total of $290,000,000! It is not strange that many outsiders who knew not 







THE GREAT FIRE, OCTOBER 9, 1871. 






what stuff Chicago business men were made of, thought and even said that Chicago had received its death 
blow, and must thereafter content itself with the position of a provincial Lake shore town. We doubt if there 
was one business man out of a thousand of those who had lost their all who even for a moment lost heart or 
hesitated as to the course to be pursued. A few days were necessary to compare notes and find out how others 
felt. Many, however, did not wait for consultation, but while the ruins were still hot, commenced clearing 
away the d(5bris preparatory to rebuilding. We need not recount how the world responded to the promptings 
of a common humanity, nor how every available means of transportation was taxed to convey to the stricken 
city the offerings of a sympathetic world. But this was only for a few days. Every available facility in 
various portions of the city was utilized to set the wheels of business running, and in the meantime the 
work of rebuilding had commenced in earnest. The miles upon miles of iron, stone and brick structures that 
now line the streets of the business portion of the city testify to the wonderful recuperative energy of Chicago 
business men. It is hard to convince the visitor of to-day that but little over ten short years ago this entire 
business area, with its miles of business blocks, was a barren waste of ashes and unsightly debris, with here 
and there portions of crumbling walls to emphasize tha completeness of the work of destruction. 







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