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POLAND 


By  tht  tame  Aulktr 

MAIN  CURRENTS  IN 

NINETEENTH   CENTURY 

LITERATURE 

By  GEORGE  BRANDES 

I.  THE  EMIGELA.NT  LITERATURE 

II.  THE     ROMANTIC     SCHOOL     IN 
GERMANY 

III.  THE  REACTION  IN  FRANCE 

IV.  NATURALISM  IN  ENGLAND 

V.  THE    ROMANTIC     SCHOOL    IN 

FRANCE 
VL  YOUNG  GERMANY 


WILLIAM  SHAKESPEARE.  A  Critical 
Study.  By  George  Brandes.  Demy  8vo, 
buckram  uncut,  los.  net. 

HENRIK  IBSEN.  BJORNSTJERNE 
BJORNSON.  Critical  Studies.  By  Gkorgk 
Brandks.  With  Introduction  by  William 
Archer.  Demy  Svo,  Roxburgh,  gilt  top,  or 
buckram,  uncut.     lof.  net. 

LONDON:  WILLIAM  HEINEMANN 
a  I  Bedford  Street,  W.C. 


POLAND 

A    STUDY    OF    THE    LAND 
PEOPLE  AND  LITERATURE 


BY 


,^  ^^EOR 


GE    BRANDES 


10'  ' 


LONDON 
WILLIAM    HEINEMANN 

1903 


All  righU  rturved 


This  Edition  enjoys  copyright  in  all 
countries  signatory  to  the  Berne 
Treaty,  and  is  not  to  be  imported 
into  the  United  States  of  America 


CONTENTS 

PART   I 

OBSERVATIONS   AND   APPRECIATIONS 

FIRST  IMPRESSION   (1885) 


PACK 


I.  Journey  from  Vienna  to  Warsaw— The  Frontier- 
Custom-house  Inspection 3 

II.  Warsaw— Physiognomy  of  the  City— Condition  of 
the  Language  and  of  the  Theatre— Russianisa- 
tion— Banishments n 

III.  The   Antecedents    and   Characteristics    of    the 

Poles 22 

IV.  The  Poles  and  the   French  —  Instability,  Dilet- 

tantism—Feverish Character  of  the  Pleasures 
OF   Life — Strength  and  Susceptibility   of  the 

National  Feeling 31 

V.  Consolidation   of   Everything  Polish  —  Religious 

Beliefs  and  Parties— Poland  a  Symbol       .       .41 

SECOND  IMPRESSION  (1886) 
THE   EXPULSION  OF  THE  POLES   BY   PRUSSIA 

I.  The  Polish  Women 53 

II.  The  Men— Polish  Ideals,  Virtues,  and  Vices  .       .      58 


vi  CONTENTS 


rACE 


III.  Education  AND  Instruction— Democrats,  Socialists, 

Free-thinkers  —  Compulsory  Choice  of  the 
Cultured 66 

IV.  Polish    Life    and    the    Russian    System  —  Public 

Festivities  and  Masquerades,  Social  Life  in 
Different  Circles — The  same  Oppressive  Atmos- 
phere everywhere 78 

V.  The   Censorship— Difficulties   in   obtaining   Per- 

mission to  deliver  Lectures 85 

VI.  How  ONE  Writes  and  Speaks  under  a  Censorship.      93 
VII.  Mental  Effects  of  the  Situation  on  the  Young  .      96 
VIII.  Is    Poland   as   an    Object   worth   the   Sacrifices 

made  for  it  ? 103 

THIRD  IMPRESSION   (1894) 

A   POLISH   MANOR-HOUSE 

I.  Neighbourhood  —  Landscape  —  Increased  Severity 

OF  Russian  Rule 109 

II.  Cholera — Censorship — Arrests 115 

III.  Monotony    and    Stillness  —  Summer-night    Senti- 

ments — Political  Divergence  of  the  Older  and 
Younger  Gener-iTions 121 

IV.  Poland  and  France— Poland  and  Germany      .        .129 
V.  A  Church  Festival— Popular  Beliefs        .       .       .136 

VI.  The  Memorial  Procession  of   1894 — Painters  and 

Writers 142 

VII.  A  Common  Domestic  Occurrence,  Significant  of 

the  State  of  the  Country 150 

VIII.  National   Characteristics  and   Patriotism  —  Con- 
clusion     156 

FOURTH  IMPRESSION   (1899) 
I.-VIII.  Lemberg .165 


CONTENTS  vu 


THE   ROMANTIC  LITERATURE  OF  POLAND 

IN  THE   NINETEENTH   CENTURY 

(1886) 

POINTS  OF  CONTACT  IN  POLISH   AND   DANISH 
LITERATURE 

PACK 

I.  Tendencies  Common  to  all  European  Literatures 
—  Peculiar  Features  —  Retrospect  —  Kocha- 
nowski—Skarga— Jesuitism— French  Philosophy 
—Rationalism 192 

J  II.  Polish  Romanticism  Determined  by  the  Character 
of  the  People,  by  European  Romanticism  and 
the  Political  Situation  —  Special  Points  of 
View  for  the  Antithesis  of  Classic  and  Ro- 
mantic —  Worship  of  Napoleon  and  Byron- 
Relation  TO  Shakespeare  and  Dante — Influ- 
ence OF  Emigrant  Life  on  the  Sentiment  of 
Writers 199 

III.  BRODZINSKI,  THE   PlONEER  OF  ROMANTICISM— POPULAR 

Ballads  —  The  Ukrainian  Poets:    Malczewski, 
Zaleski,  Goszcynski 215 

IV.  MiCKIEWICZ     AND    GOETHE— FARIS    AND    THE    ODE    TO 

Youth— Youth  of   Mickiewicz — Mickiewicz  and 
Pushkin 224 

.  V.  The  Political  Situation  Determines  the  Manner 
of  Treating  all  Subjects,  the  Point  of  View 
FOR  Love  and  Hate,  Maternal  and  Filial  Emo- 
tions, the  Relation  between  the  Individual  and 
THE  People,  between  Genius  and  the  Surround- 
ing World,  between  Emotion  and  Reason,  Rela- 
tion to  Religion  and  Philosophy  ....    239 


viii  CONTENTS 

PACK 

^Vl.  The  Two  Principal  Themes  of  the  Leading  Poets 
MiCKiEWicz,  Slowacki,  and  Krasinski  :  The  First 
Two  THE  Poets  of  Vengeance,  Krasinski  the 
Poet  of  Love 253 

VIL  The  Character  of  Hamlet  in  Poland— The  Type  of 
Hamlet  Conceived  on  Radical  Lines  by  Slowacki, 
and  on  Conservative  Lines  by  Krasinski     .       .    269 

VIIL  "Pan  Tadeusz,"  the  only  Epopee  of  the  Century 

—  MiCKIEWICZ     AND      RZEWUSKI  —  IMPORTANCE     OF 
MICKIEWICZ 282 

IX.  Division  Among  the  Poets— Disorganisation  of 
Romanticism— Polish  Literature  of  To-Day— 
Critical  Summary 295 

^  X.  Conclusion 308 


PART  I 

Iti-OBSERVAriONS  &  APPRECIATIONS 


FIRST    IMPRESSION 
1885 


4  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

how  beautiful  is  the  vicinity,  how  full  of  character  is  the 
peasants'  costume  here  in  the  region  which  we  are  going 
through,  the  long  white  cloaks  with  red  borders,  and  how 
well  they  know  how  to  wear  their  clothes  in  comparison 
with  the  North  German  peasants  in  their  stiff,  ugly 
costume  1 

Austria  is  a  rich  land  in  a  comparatively  peaceful  state 
of  dissolution,  where  there  are  many  kinds  of  men,  but  no 
Austrians.  It  is  true  we  must  except  the  imperial  family  and 
one  or  two  antiquities  of  the  old  Constitutionalists.  Besides 
these  there  are  only  Germans  in  Vienna,  as  outside  Vienna 
there  are  only  Hungarians,  Czechs,  &c. 

The  train  rushes  on.  A  little  Polish  servant,  accom- 
panying a  traveller,  calls  my  attention  to  a  young  Russian, 
who  now  and  then  spoke  French  to  him.  "  He  knows 
very  well  that  I  understand  Russian,  but  still  he  speaks 
French  to  me  ;  that  is  the  way  with  them  all  ;  they  are  at 
heart  ashamed  of  being  Russians," — an  extremely  naive  but 
very  significant  expression  of  Polish  national  hatred. 

To  profit  by  the  daylight  while  it  lasts,  I  read  Sienkie- 
wicz's  "  Bartek  Vainqueur  "  in  the  Nouvelle  Revue.  .  .  . 

The  train  stopped  at  Granica,  the  frontier  station.  Pass- 
ports have  to  be  inspected  and  baggage  examined.  A  blond 
Russian  police  soldier,  in  his  becoming  uniform,  a  long 
grey  coat,  a  cap  without  a  vizor,  a  sabre  at  his  side,  entered, 
demanded  the  passports  and  carried  them  away. 

Then  we  received  permission  and  orders  to  alight.  When 
a  traveller  suggested  that  we  could  leave  our  rugs,  overcoats, 
and  articles  of  that  kind  in  the  carriage,  since  we  were  to 
return  to  the  same  train  in  an  hour,  the  little  Pole  informed 
him  of  his  mistake :  "  Everything  must  be  taken  out ;  even 
an  umbrella  left  behind  excites  suspicion,  and  if  a  coat  is 
left,  the  lining  is  examined." 

The  first  things  found  in  my  travelling-bag  were  the  two 
numbers  of  the  Nouvelle  Revue,  which  I  had  been  reading  in 
the  carriage. 

"  What  is  this  ? "  asked  the  chief  of  the  uniformed 
custom-house  officers  in  German. 

"  What  is  it  ?  "   I  answered.     "It  is  the  Nouvelle  Revue." 


CUSTOM-HOUSE    OFFICIALS  5 

'*  Yes,  but  what  is  that  ?  " — "  A  French  periodical." — 
"  What  does  it  contain  ?" — "  Do  you  understand  French  ?" 
I  asked. — "  No." — "  Is  there  any  one  here  who  understands 
French  ?  " — "  No." — "  There  are  all  sorts  of  things  in  it ; 
there  are  two  numbers  and  there  are  ten  articles  in  each 
number.  It  is  impossible  to  tell  in  a  word  what  they  con- 
tain."— "Then  we  shall  take  it  and  send  it  to  the  censor  in 
Warsaw." — "  Is  this  periodical  forbidden  ?  " — "  Everything 
is  forbidden  that  I  do  not  know,  and  I  do  not  know  this 
book."  He  then  began  to  flutter  among  the  leaves,  forwards 
and  backwards,  and  seemed  to  look  for  papers  concealed  in 
the  sheets  that  had  not  been  cut.  I  was  reminded  of  the 
old  lithograph  which  represents  a  monkey  rifling  the  hand- 
bag of  a  traveller  and  fumbling  in  his  books. 

"  Have  you  any  more  of  this  sort  ?  " — "  Yes,  my  trunk 
is  half-full  of  books."  They  were  going  to  open  it,  when  I 
heard  from  another  officer  the  expression,  revolver,  which  I 
understood,  as  the  word  is  cosmopolitan.  They  had  found  a 
pistol  in  my  hand-bag.  It  circulated  among  them  and  was 
examined.  "  Was  it  loaded  ? " — "  Yes,  with  six  balls." — 
"  Would  I  be  kind  enough  to  take  them  out  ?  "  I  declined 
decidedly  to  be  kind  enough.  "Then  we  must."  They 
extracted  the  balls  and  afterwards  found  in  the  bottom  of 
my  trunk  a  little  box  of  balls,  which  was  put  with  the  pistol. 

Then  began  the  examination  proper.  Every  book,  every 
pamphlet  was  dug  out  and  laid  aside  ;  every  newspaper,  even 
the  newspapers  in  which  my  shoes  were  wrapped,  were  taken 
out,  smoothed,  and  laid  in  a  pile.  They  asked  in  what 
language  the  books  were  and  what  was  in  them.  As  my 
explanation  was  not  found  fully  satisfactory,  they  took  the 
whole  from  me,  giving  me  a  receipt  for  15  pounds  of 
literature.  At  the  same  time  they  demanded  three  rubles  for 
the  transportation  of  this  same  literature  to  Warsaw.  I 
should  have  attempted  bribery,  if  Poles  had  not  previously 
told  me  that  above  all  things,  bribery  must  not  be  tried  in 
the  wrong  place.  I  should  run  the  risk  of  their  taking  the 
attempt  as  a  proof  of  evil  intentions.  It  was  in  vain  that  I 
urged  that  I  needed  the  books  which  they  took  from  me  for 
my  work  in   Warsaw.     It  was   in  vain   that   I   called   their 


6  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

attention  to  the  fact  that  they  might  safely  leave  me  the 
Danish  books  and  newspapers,  since  no  harm  could  be  done 
with  them  in  Poland,  where  no  one  understands  Danish. 
"  In  the  censor's  office  they  understand  all  languages,"  was 
the  answer. — "  Grant  that  that  is  true,  although  1  have  my 
doubts ;  but  the  government  censor,  who  is  Russian,  I 
cannot  corrupt,  and  the  other  people  do  not  understand 
Danish,  do  they  ?  " — "  That  is  true  from  your  point  of  view," 
was  the  answer,  and,  acting  from  their  point  of  view,  they 
kept  the  books.  There  was  a  Danish-French  dictionary 
in  the  heap  ;  I  showed  them  that  it  was  a  dictionary,  that 
the  words  were  arranged  in  columns.  They  racked  their 
brains  over  it.  At  last,  after  mature  reflection  they  gave 
me  the  first  part,  A — L,  but  with  very  serious  looks  replaced 
part  M — Z  among  the  literature  which  the  censor  was  to 
examine. 

"  When  and  how  can  I  get  all  this  again  ? " — "  So  far 
as  the  books  are  concerned  you  can  ask  for  them  at  the 
censor's  office  ;  you  have  a  receipt  for  them.  You  will  get 
no  receipt  for  the  pistol.  But  you  may  address  a  petition 
— on  a  whole  sheet  of  paper — to  the  Governor-General  for 
permission  to  carry  it,  then,  if  he  thinks  fit,  he  can  give 
an  order  to  the  custom-house  officer  in  Warsaw  to  deliver 
it  to  you  on  your  application  there."  ^ 

Thus  on  the  very  frontier  itself  we  got  the  feeling  that 
from  this  point  we  were  outside  the  precincts  of  real 
European  civilisation. 

In  such  a  trifling  matter  as  the  custom-house  examina- 
tion the  two  distinguishing  marks  of  the  bulk  of  Russian 
prudential    regulations  can    be   traced :    the  oppressive  and 

'  During  my  stay  in  Warsaw,  in  spite  of  my  request,  he  did  not  give  the  order. 
When  one  of  my  friends,  after  my  return  to  Copenhagen,  applied  on  my  behalf  to  the 
Governor- General  for  the  delivery  or  return  of  this  weapon  which  was  guiltless  of 
shedding  human  blood,  he  received  the  following  answer:  He  must  (i)  obtain 
from  me  a  power  of  attorney  certified  by  the  Russian  Consul  in  Copenhagen ;  (2) 
make  application  to  the  Governor-General  for  permission  to  take  the  said  revolver 
over  the  frontier  ;  (3)  after  having  received  permission,  apply  to  the  custom-house  at 
Granica  to  send  the  pistol  to  the  headquarters  of  the  custom-house  in  Warsaw ;  (4) 
send  the  same  by  mail  to  Copenhagen  and  give  proof  to  the  office  of  the  Governor- 
General  that  the  revolver  bad  actually  been  sent. 


ANOMALIES    OF    THE    CENSORSHIP  7 

the  inconsequent.  If  I  had  known  of  the  prohibition  against 
having  a  pistol  in  my  travelling  bag,  all  1  needed  to  do 
was  to  put  it  into  my  pocket ;  for  the  pockets  are  not 
searched.  If  I  had  known  that  it  was  forbidden  to  carry 
foreign  books,  I  might  have  sent  them  from  Vienna  to  a 
bookseller  in  Warsaw,  and  I  should  have  received  them 
without  any  delay. 

The  government  regulations  are  not  strict  enough,  and 
yet  so  strict  that,  for  fear  of  dismissal,  the  subordinate 
officials  are  compelled  to  carry  out  their  duty  brutally  as 
well  as  injudiciously.  The  absurdities  which  met  me  on 
the  frontier,  continually  meet  the  foreigner  and  sometimes 
the  native  born.  A  few  years  ago,  on  the  Prusso-Russian 
frontier,  one  of  my  friends,  who  had  prepared  himself  for 
the  medical  examination  in  Warsaw  at  the  time  when  the 
University  was  still  Polish,  but  who  was  compelled  to  submit 
to  the  examination  after  it  had  become  Russian,  had  a 
Russian  grammar,  written  in  Russian,  taken  from  him  be- 
cause the  custom-house  official  did  not  know  the  book. 

The  Russian  rule  is  not  like  the  Prussian,  prudent  and 
uniform  ;  it  is  incoherent,  absurd,  and  often  entrusted  to 
clumsy  hands.  The  pressure  upon  Russian  Poland  is  so 
great  that  it  could  not  be  borne  for  a  month  if  many  of 
the  regulations  were  not  chaotic  and  meaningless,  others 
too  trivial  to  be  executed,  others  easily  avoided  by  bribery, 
others  entrusted  to  instruments  of  so  little  keenness  that 
their  effect  is  destroyed,  and  others  again  to  such  intelligent 
and  cultivated  men  that  they  are  not  put  into  practice. 

I  had  accepted  an  invitation  to  deliver  three  lectures  in 
French  in  the  town-hall  of  Warsaw.  In  regard  to  these 
lectures  I  had  many  difficulties  beforehand.  I  was  com- 
pelled to  prepare  them  in  time  to  send  the  manuscript 
to  Warsaw  a  month  before  my  arrival,  as  they  were  to 
be  submitted  to  a  double  censorship,  the  usual  one,  and 
a  special  one  for  public  lectures.  Since  it  was  certain  that 
if  they  were  sent  by  the  ordinary  post  they  would  be 
detained  for  an  indefinite  period  at  the  frontier,  it  was 
necessary  to  find  a  more  convenient  means  of  transit. 
Ambassadorial    courtesy    enabled    me    to    send  them  by  a 


8  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

special  hand  to  St.  Petersburg.  Thus  they  reached  their 
destination  without  any  other  delay  than  that  caused  by  the 
round-about  journey.  Two  copies  were  prepared  and  sent 
to  the  different  censors,  but  after  they  had  twice  been  read 
through  in  French,  a  day  or  two  before  my  arrival  in 
Warsaw  a  new  difficulty  arose.  The  well-known  curator 
of  the  education  department,  Apuchtin — the  same  person 
who  had  his  ears  boxed  by  a  student  a  year  ago,  which 
created  a  commotion  and  tumult  in  the  whole  city — at 
the  last  moment  required  that  all  three  lectures  should  be 
sent  in  again  in  a  Russian  translation.  This  and  the  further 
examination  naturally  took  time.  Nevertheless,  to  the 
astonishment  of  many,  not  a  line  was  struck  out,  although 
the  lectures  contained  not  a  little  which,  as  it  appeared, 
excited  emotion  in  the  listeners.  I  was  told  also  that  the 
strictness  of  the  censorship  was  sometimes  neutralised  by  the 
carelessness  or  chivalrousness  of  the  examiner  ;  it  seems 
as  if  the  censor  stationed  in  the  hall  did  not  always  note 
very  exactly  if  what  is  said  is  really  identical  with  what 
the  lecturer  has  handed  in  in  his  manuscript. 

It  appears  here,  as  in  innumerable  other  cases  in  Russia, 
that  an  order  or  prohibition  in  order  to  be  absolutely 
effective  requires  a  whole  system  of  additional  regulations. 
This  is  especially  so  when  the  prohibition  against  printing 
anything  has  a  practical  object.  In  January  the  celebrated 
old  poet  Odyniec  died  in  Warsaw.  He  was  the  faithful 
friend  and  youthful  travelling  companion  of  Mickiewicz, 
politically  a  neutral,  almost  a  conservative ;  but  as  his 
name  was  so  intimately  associated  with  memories  of  the 
revolt  of  1830  and  of  the  period  of  literary  splendour, 
as,  moreover,  he  had  been  so  close  a  friend  of  Mickie- 
wicz, the  most  celebrated  enemy  of  the  Russian  authority, 
they  endeavoured  by  means  of  the  censor  to  prevent  demon- 
strations at  his  funeral.  Consequently  it  w^as  forbidden  to 
give  any  public  notice  of  the  time  of  his  interment,  not 
only  in  the  newspapers,  but  by  the  placards  which  are 
commonly  posted  in  the  streets  and  before  the  churches. 
The  prohibition  was  enforced,  but  in  spite  of  it  a  pro- 
cession of  50,000  persons  followed  Odyniec  to  his  grave. 


THE    PASSPORT    SYSTEM  9 

It  is  thus  that  prohibition  and  censorship  only  succeed 
in  acquiring  a  character  for  ineffectual  spite.  This  is  not- 
ably the  case  with  the  Polish  press.  It  continually  happens 
that  an  article  is  forbidden  by  the  censor  on  a  particular 
day,  but  a  day  or  two  later  the  author  is  allowed  to  make 
free  use  of  it.  The  result  of  this  is  only  that  the  suspected 
newspapers  are  behind  their  rivals  in  the  discussion  of  the  sub- 
jects of  the  day.  It  continually  happens  also  that  an  article 
is  forbidden  by  the  censor  in  one  newspaper  and  allowed 
in  another. 

The  passport  system  has  the  same  character  of  annoy- 
ance without  profit  as  this  form  of  censorship.  Without  a 
passport,  vis6d  by  the  Russian  consul  in  your  place  of 
residence,  generally  speaking,  you  cannot  cross  the  frontier 
into  Russia.  It  is  called  for,  as  already  stated,  in  the 
railway  carriage,  it  is  examined  in  a  separate  room  during 
the  time  while  the  baggage  is  being  searched,  and  they 
are  so  concerned  to  prevent  the  traveller  from  handing 
it  over  to  some  offender  or  the  other,  that  he  does  not 
get  his  passport  back  till  after  he  has  taken  his  seat  in 
the  train,  immediately  before  the  last  ringing  of  the 
bell ;  a  police  soldier  brings  the  passports  in  a  case  pre- 
pared for  the  purpose  with  alphabetical  letterings.  You 
hardly  reach  your  place  of  destination  before  the  passport 
is  again  called  for ;  it  is  taken  to  the  police  office  and  kept 
there  during  the  whole  stay  of  the  traveller  in  the  city,  and 
the  information  there  given  is  supplemented  by  inquiries  of 
the  servants  in  the  house  where  you  reside  as  to  the  full 
names  of  your  parents,  whether  you  are  married  or  un- 
married— the  unmarried  are  regarded  as  the  more  dangerous 
— as  to  several  matters.  And  this  passport,  which  is  only 
given  back  on  the  day  of  departure,  is  examined  again  for  an 
hour  at  the  station  on  the  frontier  through  which  you  pass 
on  your  return  journey. 

Nevertheless  this  vigilance  also  has  a  gap  by  which  its 
results  are  almost  wholly  destroyed.  There  is  hardly 
any  attempt  to  ascertain  whether  the  person  named  in 
the  passport  is  the  same  who  has  presented  it.  They 
evidently  have  no  means  of  knowing  whether  the  name  is 


10  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

right,  but  as  the  passports  are  examined  en  bloc  in  a  sepa- 
rate room  from  that  in  which  the  travellers  are  collected, 
they  do  not  attempt  to  find  out  if  the  description  cor- 
responds with  the  person.  As  nothing  is  easier  than  to 
procure  a  passport  in  Germany,  Austria,  England  or 
France,  and  then  remain  at  home  and  let  a  friend  travel 
with  it,  the  result  is  wholly  out  of  proportion  to  the 
trouble  and  annoyance — to  say  nothing  of  the  fact  that 
hundreds  who  have  no  passports  are  daily  guided  over 
the  frontier  on  foot  by  men  who  are  pointed  out  to  every 
one  who  needs  them. 

I  had  abundant  opportunity  of  thinking  over  this  subject, 
as  during  the  tiresome  delay  I  walked  up  and  down  among 
the  tea-  and  grog-drinking  idlers  in  the  dirty  waiting-room 
at  Granica,  annoyed  by  intruders  anxious  to  change  my 
Austrian  money  into  rubles,  consoled  by  others  who  ex- 
plained to  me  that  the  officials  were  quite  within  their  rights 
in  their  treatment  of  me  ;  that  the  fact  of  my  books  being 
in  Danish  was  no  security  ;  who  could  vouch  for  it,  that 
they  did  not  contain  accounts  of  the  socialist  congress  in 
Copenhagen  1 

At  last  I  got  back  what  was  left  in  my  trunk  for  my 
own  disposal,  and  without  anything  contraband  except  what 
I  had  in  my  head,  I  arrived  the  next  morning  in  Warsaw. 


II 

WARSAW— PHYSIOGNOMY  OF  THE  CITY— CONDITION 
OF  THE  LANGUAGE  AND  OF  THE  THEATRE— 
RUSSIANISATION— BANISHMENTS 

Warsaw  (Warszawa)  is  a  city  of  more  than  400,000  in- 
habitants. As  is  well  known,  it  is  situated  on  the  river 
Vistula  (Wisla),  a  broad  river,  over  which  of  late  years  a 
great  iron  bridge  has  been  built  from  the  square  where 
the  castle  is  situated  to  the  suburb  Praga,  so  tragically 
celebrated  in  the  history  of  Poland.  I  don't  know  if  it  was  in 
consequence  of  Hauch's  beautiful  song  that  the  stream  in  its 
winter  dress,  full  of  grey  floating  ice,  appeared  so  melancholy. 

The  city  is  of  great  extent,  but  with  its  decayed  grandeur 
and  the  horrible  memories  it  calls  up  at  every  turn,  it 
makes  a  mournful  impression.  In  the  last  century,  next 
to  Paris,  it  was  the  most  brilliant  city  in  Europe  ;  now 
it  is  a  Russian  provincial  town.  It  then  had  the  character 
of  prodigal  splendour ;  now  it  is  a  forlorn,  neglected  place, 
which  declines  more  and  more  every  day,  not  the  least  thing 
being  done  by  the  authorities  for  its  appearance  and  im- 
provement. It  cuts  one  to  the  heart  to  see  the  wretchedly 
paved  streets,  or  the  terrible  old  sandstone  figures  in  the 
Saxon  garden,  on  coming  from  a  luxurious  city  like  Vienna, 
or  one  which  has  blossomed  out  with  such  rapidity  as  Berlin. 

For  whereas  the  capitals  of  countries  elsewhere  are 
generally  the  object  of  the  rulers'  care,  almost  of  their 
tenderness,  and  cities  elsewhere  from  mere  self-love  take 
heed  of  beauty  and  convenience,  and  strive  to  provide  as 
great  attractions  for  country  folks  and  for  foreigners  as 
possible,  Warsaw  is  the  capital  of  a  country  whose  existence 
the  government  does  not  recognise,  and  is  a  city  whose  pride 


12  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

the  government  wishes  to  humble  in  every  way.  We  must 
remember  that  Warsaw  has  no  "home  rule,"  no  civic  council, 
and  nothing  at  all  like  it.  Russian  Poland  is  altogether  a 
country  where  nothing  is  elected.  As  there  is  no  parliament, 
so  also  there  is  no  municipal  government.  Only  a  part  of 
the  taxes  collected  in  the  city  is  used  for  the  city  itself,  the 
remainder  goes  to  St.  Petersburg.  Russian  self-esteem 
makes  all  the  arrangements,  and  Russian  covetousness  carries 
them  out.  The  condition  of  the  roads  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  city  is  only  to  be  understood  by  one  who  knows  the 
Russian  idea  in  Poland,  the  rule  that  when  80,000  rubles 
are  appropriated  to  a  highway,  40,000  must  go  into  the 
pockets  of  the  officials.  No  illusion  has  been  left  to  the  ' 
inhabitants  of  the  city.  As  long  ago  as  the  i6th  of 
October,  1835,  when  the  Tzar  Nicholas  visited  Warsaw 
for  the  first  time  after  the  great  rising  of  the  people  in 
1830-31,  he  said  plainly  to  the  deputation  which  came 
to  greet  him,  that  the  castle,  which  he  had  caused  to  be 
constructed,  was  built  not  for  the  protection  of  the  city,  but  ^ 
against  it ;  he  threatened  the  Poles  with  the  misfortunes 
which  awaited  them  if  they  did  not  give  up  their  "  dream  of 
a  separate  nationality,  an  independent  Poland,  and  all  such 
chimeras,"  and  he  concluded  with  the  words  :  "  I  have  caused 
this  castle  to  be  built,  and  I  declare  to  you  that  at  the  least 
attempt  at  insurrection  I  will  have  the  city  blown  to  pieces, 
and  I  will  then  have  it  razed  to  the  ground,  and  depend 
upon  it,  it  shall  not  be  rebuilt  during  my  reign." 

Since  the  unfortunate  revolution  of  1863,  nothing  at 
all  has  been  undertaken  for  the  cleanliness  or  well-being  of 
the  place,  though  by  reason  of  a  lack  of  waterworks  and 
sewerage  the  beautiful  city  is  one  of  the  least  healthy  in 
Europe.  The  bed  of  the  streets  is  so  soft  that  the  paving 
stones  fall  away  from  each  other  in  ridges  and  holes,  but 
nothing  has  been  done  since  1863  to  repair  them  ;  nay,  in  all 
these  years,  with  the  exception  of  the  town-hall,  which  was 
burned  at  that  date,  not  a  public  building  has  been  erected. 
The  whole  of  the  civil  and  military  administration  is  carried 
on  in  confiscated  private  and  public  buildings.  Time 
destroys  whatever  it  will  without  any  one  seeking  to  repair 


MONUMENTS    IN    WARSAW  13 

the  damage.  Thorwaldsen's  Copernicus,  which  is  so  popular 
in  Warsaw  that  the  common  people  call  a  statue  a  Coper- 
nicus, is  covered  with  dirt,  but  is  never  cleaned.  The 
pedestal  is  crumbling  away  under  it,  but  no  one  restores  it. 
The  Copernicus  is  one  of  the  oldest  statues  of  the  city.  It 
was  completed  and  unveiled  May  11,  1830,  after  the  dis- 
tinguished author  Stanislaw  Staszic  (i 755-1 826),  the  first 
great  orator  of  the  Polish  democracy,  who  gave  all  that  he 
possessed  to  objects  for  the  public  good,  had  made  a  contri- 
bution of  70,000  Polish  florins  to  the  national  subscription 
for  the  erection  of  the  memorial.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
monument  to  Prince  Joseph  Poniatowski  which  Thor- 
waldsen  had  undertaken  during  his  stay  in  Warsaw,  Sep- 
tember-October, 1820,  and  which  in  1829  arrived  in  the 
city  to  be  cast  in  bronze,  was  indeed  unveiled  the  same 
day  as  the  Copernicus,  but  was  removed,  as  soon  as  the 
revolt  of  1 83 1  was  quenched  in  blood.  It  is  now  to  be 
found  rebaptized  as  a  St.  George,  and  inaccessible,  in  the 
grounds  of  a  Russian  private  citizen,  the  Prince  of  Warsaw, 
not  far  from  the  city. 

The  only  public  memorials  in  good  condition  are :  the 
colossal  monument  to  Paskiewicz  in  the  middle  of  the 
main  street  of  the  Cracow  Suburb  {Krakowskie  Przed- 
miescie),  erected  in  gratitude  because  he,  "  trusty  and  active 
as  the  knout  in  the  hands  of  the  executioner  "  (Mickiewicz) 
in  September,  1831,  when  the  last  heroic  defenders  had 
blown  themselves  up  into  the  air,  conquered  the  redoubts 
before  Warsaw  and  entered  the  city — and  the  great  iron 
obelisk,  commemorating  the  names  of  the  Poles,  who,  in 
1 83 1,  informed  against  their  countrymen,  and  were  hanged 
or  shot  on  that  account  as  traitors  or  spies.  On  the 
sumptuous  granite  pedestal  rest  four  metal  lions.  About 
the  base  of  the  obelisk  are  horrible-looking  heraldic  eagles 
with  two  heads  of  supernatural  size.  The  inscription  in 
Russian  and  Polish  over  the  names  reads  thus  :  "  The  Poles 
who  fell  for  fidelity  to  their  Sovereign."  This  obelisk  very 
possibly  misses  its  mark  in  Warsaw  ! 

The  street  traffic  is  by  no  means  inconsiderable  ;  in  the 
markets  there  is  the  same    life  as  everywhere  else   where 


14  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

buying  and  selling  take  place  in  the  open  air.  But  it  strikes 
the  stranger  that  in  those  places  where  the  people  are  to  be 
seen  in  large  numbers,  as  on  their  Sunday  promenades  in 
the  principal  streets,  they  never  have  the  contented  and 
well-to-do  Sunday  look  common  in  other  large  cities,  but  a 
melancholy  or  brooding  expression.  A  merry  scene  is 
never  witnessed  in  the  street,  and  a  joke  is  never  overheard. 

The  physiognomy  of  the  city  does  not,  however,  lack 
character.  The  Circassian  regiments  (that  is  to  say,  in 
reality  Cossacks  and  Armenians  in  Circassian  costume)  with 
their  fur  caps,  their  sabres  at  their  sides,  their  yataghans  in 
their  belts,  have  a  picturesque  oriental  appearance.  Every 
moment  also  you  meet  among  the  less  characteristic  Polish 
carriages  a  Russian  equipage,  in  which  a  Russian  officer 
is  driven  by  a  coachman  in  the  long  black  national  costume 
with  the  blue  scarf  round  the  waist. 

One  of  the  most  noticeable  things,  so  far  as  externals  are 
concerned,  in  the  streets  of  Warsaw  is,  that  without  exception 
all  the  names  (even  of  the  streets),  all  the  signs,  all  the 
notices  are  in  two  languages  or  two  kinds  of  characters  ;  on 
the  left  side  the  inscriptions  are  in  Polish,  on  the  right  in 
Russian,  or  above  in  Russian  and  below  in  Polish.  It  is 
a  little  element  in  the  contest  which  the  government  keeps 
up  to  force  the  foreign  language  on  the  Polish  nationality. 

Recently  the  government  has  even  begun  to  try  to 
introduce  the  Russian  language  into  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church.  On  account  of  a  refusal  to  carry  out  an  order  of 
this  kind,  the  Bishop  of  Wilna,  Hryniewiecki,  was  exiled  to 
Yaraslaw,  and  some  weeks  later  his  substitute,  Harasimowicz, 
to  Wologda. 

The  only  place  where  it  is  allowed  to  speak  the  Polish 
language  publicly  is  on  the  stage.  As  yet  it  is  not  forbidden 
to  give  Polish  theatrical  representations,  and  this  circumstance 
has  given  to  the  theatre  a  preponderance  in  Polish  intel- 
lectual life,  which  is  intelligible,  but  unfortunate,  and  so  much 
the  more  harmful  and  unnatural  as  the  dramatic  litera- 
ture of  the  country  is  rather  poor.  There  is  something 
depressing  in  seeing  this  seriously  constituted  and  highly 
endowed  people   attributing  an  importance  to   the    theatre 


THE    POLISH    STAGE  15 

which  it  by  no  means  deserves  in  a  nation  without  pro- 
nounced dramatic  qualities.  If  many  of  the  best  literary 
men  have  devoted  themselves  to  theatrical  criticism,  it  is 
because  in  the  guise  of  examination  and  analysis  of  the  ideas 
put  forward  in  the  plays,  they  can  say  and  suggest  much 
which  it  would  be  impossible  to  advance  without  this  oppor- 
tunity or  veil. 

The  theatre  in  Warsaw  is  on  the  decline  at  the  present 
moment.  It  is  directed  by  a  courtier  who  is  bitterly  hated, 
and  who  rules  it  in  a  military  fashion,  without  the  least 
artistic  insight.  It  has  indeed  one  important  comic  actor, 
but  otherwise  no  men  of  talent  of  the  very  first  rank,  and 
no  contemporary  school  of  dramatic  authors  who  could 
place  peculiarly  national  aims  before  the  younger  men  who 
frequent  it.  The  greater  part  of  the  repertoire  consists  of 
French  plays,  and  the  style  of  acting  is  essentially  French. 
However,  in  Helen  Marcello,  the  theatre  in  Warsaw  has  an 
actress  who  fascinates  by  her  beauty  and  her  glow  of  passion, 
and  only  a  few  years  since  it  had  two  admirable  actresses 
who  would  shine  on  any  stage. 

One,  Madam  Popiel-Svienska,  whom  I  saw  play  at  a 
performance  for  a  charity  in  Pailleron's  "  L'Etincelle," 
was  a  roguish  and  delicately  emotional  ingenue ;  a  chubby 
little  figure,  youthful  in  her  movements,  with  a  delicate 
face,  which  shone  with  goodness  of  heart,  its  shadows 
dimples  and  its  sunbeams  smiles.  When  this  lady  married 
an  elderly  man  of  high  rank,  he  demanded  (like  the  egoist 
in  Musset's  Bettine)  that  she  should  retire  from  the  stage, 
and  she  complied  with  his  humour,  although  the  public  in 
Warsaw  even  now  constantly  embraces  every  opportunity 
to  protest  against  this  determination.  At  the  passage  in 
"  L'Etincelle "  where  she  says  something  to  this  effect  : 
"  I  must  play  comedy  again,"  by  a  previous  agreement 
among  the  spectators  hundreds  upon  hundreds  of  bouquets 
were  thrown  upon  the  stage,  so  that  the  play  was  interrupted 
for  several  minutes. 

The  second  and  far  greater  actress  Poland  has  pro- 
duced, who  now  enjoys  a  world-wide  reputation,  since  of 
late    years    she    has   played  chiefly   in   English,  in   London 


i6  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

and  North  America,  and  only  for  six  weeks  in  each  year 
appears  at  the  theatre  in  Warsaw,  is  generally  known  by 
her  first  husband's  name,  as  Mme.  Modrzejewska.  The  Poles 
are  justly  proud  of  her  ;  she  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  the 
nation.  When  in  1879  a  national  greeting  was  to  be  given 
to  Kraszewski  on  his  fiftieth  anniversary  as  an  author,  Helena 
Modrzejewska  was  asked  to  come  to  Cracow  and  take  part  in 
the  play  at  the  festival  in  honour  of  the  prolific  author.  Her 
appearance,  like  her  art,  is  of  the  grand  style.  She  has  a 
brilliant  beauty,  is  now  (1888)  over  forty  years  old,  but  her 
figure  is  still  slender  and  elegant  without  meagreness,  and 
her  face,  with  its  regular  features,  large  dark  eyes,  pure 
strong  lines  of  the  mouth,  and  the  Asiatic  grace  of  her 
smile  can  never  lose  its  beauty.  I  have  seen  her  in  "  Dalila," 
by  Feuillet,  in  Sardou's  "  Odette,"  and  in  "  L'Etincelle,"  and 
I  have  never  in  my  life  seen  better  art  than  hers,  when 
as  Odette  during  a  visit  to  her  daughter  she  has  to  suppress 
the  maternal  feelings  which  overpower  her.  One  of  Mme. 
Modrzejewska's  best  roles  is  Nora  in  Ibsen's  "  Doll's  House  "  ; 
I  had  a  great  wish  to  see  her  in  it,  and  she  was  almost 
equally  eager  to  play  it  for  a  countryman  of  the  author ; 
but  we  did  not  count  on  the  despotism  of  the  director  of 
the  theatre,  who  withdrew  his  consent  at  the  last  moment, 
from  pure  spite. 

Mme.  Modrzejewska  prefers  to  play  Shakespere,  and  her 
English  repertoire  consists  almost  wholly  of  Shakesperian 
roles.  She  is  indebted  to  her  present  husband,  an  ex- 
tremely artistic  man  of  the  world,  Karol  Chlapowski,  for  her 
taste  for  English  poetry,  as  well  as  for  her  higher  develop- 
ment as  an  artist  generally.  Naturally  enough,  she  felt 
the  need  of  a  broader  sphere  for  her  talents  than  that  offered 
by  the  Polish  language.  But  there  is  great  danger  that  the 
life  of  travel  as  a  star,  which  she  has  led  of  late  years,  will 
compel  her  to  restrict  her  art  to  its  coarser  effects. 

While  the  stage,  as  I  have  just  said,  is  still  Polish,  the 
Polish  language  is  absolutely  forbidden  in  the  University. 
All  lectures,  no  matter  whether  they  are  delivered  by  men  of 
Russian  or  Polish  birth,  must  be  in  Russian.  Not  even  the 
history  of  Polish  literature  may  be  taught  in  the  language 


REGULATIONS   AGAINST   SPEAKING    POLISH    17 

of  the  country.     Nay,  even  in  the  corridors  of  the  University 
the  students  are  forbidden  to  speak  Polish  with  each  other. 

Even  more  dangerous  to  Polish  nationality  is  that  pro- 
vision of  the  law  which  requires  that  all  instruction  in  the 
schools  shall  be  in  Russian.  Even  the  scanty  instruction 
in  the  Polish  language  is  given  in  Russian.  And  so  strict 
is  the  prohibition  against  speaking  Polish  in  playtime,  or 
generally  in  the  school-grounds,  that  a  boy  of  twelve 
years  old  was  recently  shut  up  for  twenty-four  hours  in  the 
dark  because  coming  out  of  school,  he  said  to  a  comrade 
in  Polish  :  "  Let  us  go  home  together."  But  the  regime 
to  which  the  schools  are  subjected  with  regard  to  the 
suppression  of  the  national  peculiarities  is  not  confined  to 
the  domain  of  language.  In  a  family  which  I  was  invited 
to  visit  the  following  incident  happened.  The  son  of  the 
family,  a  boy  of  sixteen,  the  only  son  of  a  widow,  one 
evening  in  the  theatre  had  thrown  a  wreath  to  Helena 
Modrzejewska  on  behalf  of  his  comrades.  A  few  days  after,  in 
obedience  to  an  order  from  the  Minister  of  Education,  the 
principal  of  the  school  called  him  up,  and  told  him 
that  he  must  not  only  leave  the  school,  but  that  all  future 
admission  to  any  other  school  whatever  was  forbidden  him  ; 
it  was  the  punishment  for  having  been  guilty  of  a  Polish 
demonstration.  The  boy  went  home  and  put  a  bullet  through 
his  head. 

We  may  perhaps  wonder  that  provisions  which  in 
certain  circumstances  drive  a  half-grown  lad  to  suicide 
are  maintained,  or  that  so  innocent  a  thing  as  the  throwing 
of  a  wreath  is  forbidden.  But  the  answer  is,  that  as  a 
rule  everything  which  betrays  a  love  for  the  language  is 
forbidden  in  Warsaw. 

For  instance,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  it  is  forbidden 
to  give  instruction  to  the  common  people,  because  instruc- 
tion can  only  be  given  in  Russian,  which  the  common 
people  do  not  understand.  Their  ignorance  is  very  great  ; 
only  one-fifth  of  the  population  can  read  and  write.  This 
strikes  even  the  stranger  who  only  remains  for  a  few 
weeks  in  Warsaw  ;  a  coachman  there  is  never  seen  reading 
his  newspaper   as  in   other   cities  ;    nay,  the   coachmen,  as 

B 


1 8  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

a  rule,  do  not  even  know  the  numbers.  You  tell  them 
the  name  of  the  street,  say,  as  soon  as  you  come  into  it,  "  to 
the  left  "  or  "  to  the  right,"  and  signal  them  when  to  stop.  In 
the  country  the  ignorance  of  everything  to  be  learned  from 
books  must  be  extraordinary.  Nevertheless,  it  recently  hap- 
pened that  a  young  lady,  who  on  her  own  estate  was  privately 
teaching  four  or  five  peasant  children,  received  an  injunc- 
tion from  the  highest  judicial  officer  of  the  district  to 
desist  immediately,  since  he,  who  had  known  her  parents, 
was  very  unwilling  to  be  the  cause  of  her  being  sent  far  away, 
which  would  inevitably  be  the  result  if  she,  by  continuing 
her  efforts,  compelled  him  to  make  a  report  thereon. 

Whenever  prosperous  and  patriotic  people  have  asked 
permission  to  establish  Polish  country  schools  they  have 
been  refused.  When  at  last  several  rich  Poles,  in  their 
despair  at  the  low  level  of  civilisation  of  their  people,  gave 
way,  and  with  the  idea  that  Russian  teaching  was  better 
than  none  at  all,  began  to  open  Russian  schools,  no  one 
attended  ;  the  peasants  preferred  ignorance  to  instruction 
in  a  foreign  tongue. 

Now  and  again  the  government  stretches  the  bow  so 
tightly  that  it  breaks.  For  instance,  about  ten  years  ago  an 
ukase  provided  that  all  domestic  letters  should  be  directed 
in  Russian  characters.  When  as  a  result  of  this,  the  number 
of  letters  was  so  greatly  reduced  that  a  considerable  falling 
off  in  the  postal  receipts  was  perceptible,  they  were  com- 
pelled to  allow  the  decree  to  lapse. 

The  arrangements  which  tend  to  bring  the  ownership 
of  the  soil  into  Russian  hands  correspond  to  the  endeavours 
of  the  government  to  Russianise  the  language.  When  the 
last  great  revolt  was  suppressed,  an  ukase  was  issued  (Dec.  lo, 
1865)  which  prohibited  the  Poles  from  acquiring  any  land 
in  the  old  Polish  provinces  of  Lithuania,  Podolia,  Wolhynia, 
and  Ukrainia,  nay,  which  prohibited  their  bequeathing 
their  real  estate  in  these  provinces  to  any  other  persons  than 
their  lineal  descendants.  Yet  according  to  law,  since  the 
revolt  there  have  been  no  Poles  ;  they  are  all  Russians. 
Even  the  Kingdom  of  Poland  is  called  officially  Vistulaland. 
It  was  thought,  therefore,   that   by   Poles   the   government 


REGULATIONS  AFFECTING  TENURE  OF  LAND    19 

meant  the  adherents  of  the  Roman  Catholic  creed  in  old 
Poland,  and  that  the  prohibition  would  not  be  extended  to 
others.  But  on  inquiry  as  to  who  the  Poles  were,  the 
answer  was :  "  The  Governor-General  decides  the  nation- 
ality," an  answer  which  left  no  hope. 

No  blow  could  have  struck  the  Polish  national  cause 
more  severely  than  this  ukase ;  for  no  country  lies  nearer 
to  the  hearts  of  the  Poles  than  Lithuania,  which  since  the 
days  of  Jagiello  and  Jadwiga  (since  1386)  has  been  united 
with  Poland,  and  in  spite  of  the  difference  of  language, 
has  felt  itself  to  be  a  Polish  land.  Many  of  the  leading 
men  of  Poland — natives  of  the  region — have  echoed  the 
celebrated  words  of  Mickiewicz  : — 

Lithuania,  like  health  art  thou  my  fatherland  ! 

He  who  has  never  felt  the  want  of  thee  has  never  known  thy  worth. 

It  was  natural  that  when  possible  they  evaded  the  law 
by  occupying  and  cultivating  as  tenants  the  land  they 
did  not  dare  to  possess  as  owners,  a  course  which  was 
facilitated  by  the  fact  that  the  principal  Russians,  who 
had  government  donations  of  Lithuanian  estates,  soon 
felt  themselves  so  isolated  and  so  much  out  of  place 
in  the  country,  that  they  were  content  to  abandon  their 
new  possessions,  or  at  least  to  leave  the  care  and  cultivation 
of  them  to  others.  The  danger  that  after  a  while  the 
Russians  would  buy  up  all  the  land  and  soil  of  Lithuania 
thus  seemed  to  be  warded  off.  But  a  short  time  ago  a 
new  ukase  of  December  27,  1884,  which  set  Warsaw  in 
a  blaze,  ordered  that  no  Pole — and  the  Governor-General 
determines  the  nationality — should  be  allowed  to  lease,  act 
as  steward  for,  or  manage  the  estates  in  any  of  the  parts 
of  the  country  specified  in  the  previous  order,  and — which 
seems  still  more  rigorous  to  Western  Europeans — this  ukase 
has  a  retrospective  force,  so  that  all  the  earlier  contracts 
of  lease  or  stewardship  were  declared  by  it  to  be  null. 
Efifective  power  cannot  be  denied  to  a  decree  of  this  kind. 

And  of  similar  import  are  several  of  the  regulations 
which  have  been  made  of  late  to  strike  at  those  who  have 
some  intellectual  object  in  view. 


20  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Besides  the  ineffective  censorship  already  spoken  of  there 
is  one  which  is  effective.  The  weekly  newspaper,  Prawda 
{Truth),  the  most  progressive  newspaper  in  Poland,  the  organ 
of  the  Positivists,  has  3400  lines.  It  has  happened  that  for 
a  single  number  7000  lines  have  been  erased  before  the 
paper  was  published.  The  censor  seems  to  be  so  capricious 
that  it  is  impossible  to  foresee  what  will  be  allowed.  The 
editor,  the  celebrated  author,  Alexander  Svientochovvski, 
writes  as  if  there  were  no  censor,  and  as  an  editor  he  cannot 
send  his  articles  to  any  other  paper. 

The  supervision  of  everything  written  would  seem  at 
least  to  ensure  that  the  writers  would  escape  punishment ; 
for  since  nothing  can  be  printed  unless  it  has  been  read 
and  approved,  it  would  seem  impossible  to  do  wrong  as  an 
author.  Nevertheless,  young  authors  are  to  be  met  with 
who  have  repeatedly  suffered  a  punishment  of  from  three 
to  five  months'  imprisonment  in  the  interior  of  Russia  ; 
they  were  punished  for  their  intentions,  for  what  was  struck 
out,  or  rather,  they  do  not  certainly  know  what  they  were 
punished  for,  since  they  are  struck  at  not  by  a  law,  but  by 
a  police  regulation. 

The  fact  is  the  government  does  not  need  a  law  to  attain 
its  end  ;  it  has  at  its  command  what  is  better,  the  adminis- 
trative way,  and  this  administrative  way  means,  as  a  rule, 
Siberia. 

I  have  named  the  word  which  is  in  the  air  in  Warsaw, 
the  spectre  which  broods  over  the  city  like  a  nightmare,  the 
threat  which  lurks  about  every  man's  door,  the  memory  of 
which  is  to  be  read  in  the  faces  of  so  many  men  and  women. 

The  first  lady  I  took  in  to  dinner  on  the  first  day  of 
my  stay  in  Warsaw — a  beautiful,  elegant  woman  with  a 
Mona-Lisa  smile,  and  something  proud  in  her  bearing — 
spent  three  years  in  the  mines  of  Siberia.  She  had  carried 
a  letter  during  the  revolt. 

The  next  evening  in  a  not  very  large  room,  more  than 
two  hundred  years  of  Siberia  were  collected.  There  were 
not  a  few  men  who  had  spent  from  1863-83  there,  if  we 
reckon  the  time  it  took  for  them  to  go  on  foot ;  this  takes 
more  or  less  time   according  to  the  situation  of  the   place 


DEPLETION    OF    POLAND  21 

of  exile  in  Siberia,  but  always  a  very  long  time,  and  the 
journey  on  foot  is  one  of  the  most  painful  portions  of  the 
period  of  punishment.  From  Kief  to  Tobolsk  it  takes  a 
year  ;  to  the  Nertschink  mines  in  the  department  of  Irkutsk 
more  than  two  years.  One  evening  at  a  party  a  young  man 
asked  me  to  talk  a  little  with  his  father  who  was  sitting  in 
a  corner.  "  He  is,"  he  said,  "  the  old  man  with  one  leg  you 
see  there."  He  had  lost  a  foot  in  the  revolt,  was  exiled,  and 
had  been  obliged  to  walk  the  whole  distance  on  his  wooden 
leg  ;  it  took  him  two  winters  and  one  summer. 

Of  course  those  who  return  from  exile  are  taken  care 
of  in  Warsaw  as  they  are  always  penniless,  since  confiscation 
of  real  and  personal  property  is  part  of  the  punishment. 
Of  the  several  surviving  members  of  the  national  govern- 
ment of  1863,  one  keeps  a  book-shop,  another  has  a  private 
situation,  and  so  on. 

After  the  revolt  about  fifty  thousand  Poles  in  all  were 
carried  out  of  the  country.  They  were  either  sentenced  to 
hard  labour  in  the  salt  works  and  mines  or  in  the  forts,  or 
(for  the  most  part)  to  domicile  in  some  country  village 
from  which  it  would  be  impossible  for  them  to  escape, 
yet  with  narrowly  restricted  choice  of  occupations.  Others 
again  would  be  allowed  to  move  freely  within  certain 
limits  ;  yet  even  they  were  strictly  forbidden  certain  occupa- 
tions, as,  for  instance,  all  kinds  of  teaching.  They  were  taken 
to  their  places  of  destination  in  bands  of  about  three 
hundred  persons,  guarded  by  Cossacks  and  watch-dogs, 
passing  the  nights  in  large  sheds,  where  there  were  pallets 
for  the  women  and  children,  while  the  others  slept  as 
they  could.  It  is  estimated  that  there  are  about  one 
thousand  Poles  in  Siberia,  but  of  the  so-called  IVodworency 
— that  is,  wandering  peasants  or  petty  nobles  of  Lithuania 
— several  thousand. 

Intellectually  few  countries  would  have  been  able  to 
survive  such  a  depletion  as  Poland  has  endured  for  the  last 
twenty  years.  Only  think  what  one-tenth  of  the  loss  of  five 
thousand  or  one-hundredth  of  the  loss  of  five  hundred  of  its 
most  advanced  sons  and  daughters  by  an  exile  of  many  years 
would  mean  for  Denmark  ! 


Ill 

THE    ANTECEDENTS    AND   CHARACTERISTICS 
OF    THE    POLES 

At  the  commencement  of  the  century  what  was  the  condi- 
tion of  this  people  on  which  this  pressure  of  foreign  rule 
rests,  which,  sundered  into  three  parts,  with  an  imperial 
eagle  over  each  part  of  its  divided  body,  still  lives  and  seeks 
to  convince  indifferent  Europe  of  its  power  and  vitality  ? 

It  was  a  people  which  at  the  brightest  time  of  its  re- 
generation fell  a  victim  to  the  breach  of  faith  and  covetous- 
ness  of  a  foreign  power. 

From  the  close  of  the  fourteenth  to  the  close  of  the 
sixteenth  century  Poland  had  been  the  important  power  of 
Eastern  Europe,  and  had  extended  from  the  Baltic  to  the 
Black  Sea,  from  the  Elbe  and  the  Oder  to  the  Dnieper,  over 
a  territory  of  more  than  20,000  square  miles.  Poland  was 
a  great  republic,  with  an  elective  king,  or  more  exactly,  a  great 
democracy  of  nobles  ;  for  the  nobility  was  so  numerous,  so 
accessible,  so  zealous  to  maintain  the  political  equality  of 
every  single  noble  with  greater  peers,  that  the  constitution, 
though  it  conferred  rights  only  on  the  nobility,  had  a  demo- 
cratic stamp.  The  organisation  of  the  diet  carried  out  the 
idea  of  almost  unlimited  freedom  for  the  individual. 

The  weak  point  in  the  state  organisation  was  that  the 
nobility  {Szlachta)  was  only  a  class  of  from  800,000  to 
1,000,000  men  in  a  population  of  from  8,000,000  to 
13,000,000,  and  that  the  ruling  class,  after  having  realised 
its  ideal  of  freedom  and  vitality,  stood  still  in  a  dead  con- 
servatism. Until  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century 
society  was  immovable,  because  the  nobility  regarded  every 
reform  as  an  attack  upon  their  freedom,  and  enthusiastically 
upheld    not    only    the    free    choice  of   a    king,  which    had 


THE    CONSTITUTION    OF    1791  23 

degenerated  into  an  actual  auction  of  the  crown  to  the 
highest  bidder,  but  also  the  liberum  veto — that  is,  the  right 
of  every  single  member  of  the  diet  to  prevent  any  enactment 
by  his  protest. 

Ideas  of  reform — mostly  from  France — made  way  slowly 
in  the  last  half  of  the  eighteenth  century,  when  it  was  too 
late.  They  did  not  become  predominant  till  after  the  first 
partition  of  Poland  in  1772.  From  that  time  forth  Polish 
politicians  subjected  the  existing  arrangements  to  a  persistent 
criticism,  the  political  results  of  which  were  shown  in  the 
celebrated  four  years'  diet,,  which  met  a  year  before  the 
breaking  out  of  the  FrencilT  Revolution.  In  this  diet  the 
strong  national  party,  in  constant  conflict  with  the  obdurate 
aristocrats,  who  were  not  very  numerous,  and  the  venal 
traitors  who  were  partisans  of  the  Tzarina  Catherine,  worked 
incessantly,  secretly,  and  harmoniously  at  the  reform  of  the 
constitution.  Finally,  May  3,  1791,  an  epoch-making  date 
in  Polish  intellectual  life,  the  constitution  which  had  been 
prepared  (an  excellent  work  for  those  days,  which,  among 
other  things,  made  the  royal  power  hereditary,  established  a 
responsible  ministry  and  abolished  the  liberum  veto)  was 
discussed,  adopted,  and  sworn  to  by  the  king  and  the 
members  of  the  diet  in  common  in  a  nine  hours'  session. 
A  fact  like  the  adoption  of  this  constitution  is  strong 
evidence  against  the  alleged  unfitness  of  Poland  for  self- 
government. 

If  the  people  themselves  had  dared  to  decide  their  fate, 
they  would  easily  have  got  the  better  of  that  little  group  of 
reactionary  nobles  who,  as  early  as  1792,  met  in  Targowice, 
at  the  instance  of  Russia,  to  invoke  Russia  for  the  protection 
of  their  old  liberties  ;  but  the  weak  Stanislaus  Augustus,  as 
is  well  known,  submitted  to  the  pressure  from  St.  Petersburg, 
broke  his  oath,  and  joined  the  confederation  at  Targowice. 
Thus  when  the  Prussian  army,  under  the  pretence  of  fighting 
against  Jacobinism,  but  in  reality  to  divide  the  booty  with  the 
Tzarina,  invaded  the  land  in  1793,  the  second  partition  of 
Poland  was  carried  out. 

Then  followed  the  first  great  Polish  rebellion,  under 
Kosciusko  as  Dictator.     After  a  three  days'  fight  the  Russians 


24  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

were  driven  out  of  Warsaw  and  in  a  short  time  Wilna,  the 
capital  of  Lithuania,  was  also  liberated.  With  varying  suc- 
cess the  contest  was  continued  amidst  victory,  defeat,  and 
treachery,  until  Kosciusko — on  the  sudden  arrival  of  Suvorow 
on  the  battlefield — lost  the  battle  almost  won  at  Maciejo- 
wice,  and,  severely  wounded,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Russians.^  Suvorow  carried  Praga  by  assault,  and  after 
causing  20,000  men  to  be  cut  down  on  the  8th  of  Novem- 
ber, entered  Warsaw.  In  1795  came  the  third  and  last 
partition.  There  was  no  longer  any  kingdom  of  Poland. 
But  there  was  still  a  Polish  people — a  people  who  had 
heroic,  chivalrous,  brilliant,  useless  qualities  enough,  but 
very  few  of  the  useful,  civic  virtues.  It  was  an  enthusiastic 
and  unpractical  people,  noble-minded  and  untrustworthy, 
pomp-loving  and  volatile,  vivacious  and  thoughtless,  a  people 
who  despised  severe  and  fatiguing  labour,  and  loved  all 
intense  and  delicate,  sensuous  and  intellectual  enjoyments, 
but,  above  all,  who  worshipped  independence  to  the  point 
of  insanity,  freedom  to  the  extent  of  the  liberum  veto,  and 
who  even  now,  when  they  had  lost  independence  and  free- 
dom, had  remained  faithful  to  their  old  love. 

It  was  a  credulous  and  confiding  martial  people,  always 
ready  to  risk  their  lives  upon  a  promise,  which  no  one 
thought  of  keeping. 

Consider  the  relation  of  this  people  to  Napoleon,  on 
whom,  after  the  last  partition  of  the  country,  they  naturally 
fixed  their  hopes.  Only  two  years  after  the  partition, 
General  Dombrowski  agreed  with  Bonaparte  that  the  Polish 
legions  (in  national  uniform,  but  under  French  leaders) 
should  fight  in  Italy  with  the  soldiers  of  the  republic.  The 
Poles  received  many  a  blow  for  the  French  in  Lombardy 
in  1797  and  in  the  Italian  campaign  of  1798-99.  The 
first  legion  was  almost  annihilated  under  Dombrowski  in 
the  battles  of  Trebbia  and  Novi ;  the  second  under  Wiel- 
horski  entered  Mantua,  which  the  Austrians  were  besieging  ; 
when  the  French  were  compelled  to  capitulate  they  bound 
themselves  to  surrender  these  deserters — that  is,  the  Poles — 
to  their  masters.     Nevertheless  the  Poles  raised  new  legions, 

^  His  famous  exclamation,  "Finis  Polonuz  !"  is  a  legend  of  later  invention. 


POLISH    LEGIONS    UNDER    NAPOLEON        25 

and  took  part  during  the  Consulate  in  the  battles  on  the 
Danube  and  in  Italy.  But  neither  the  treaty  of  peace  at 
Luneville  in  1801  nor  that  of  Campo  Formio  in  1797, 
contained  any  article  in  which  the  name  of  Poland  was 
mentioned. 

Nevertheless  the  Poles,  deceived  by  lying  promises,  hoped 
at  every  new  campaign  that  by  alliance  with  the  French 
troops  they  should  succeed  in  restoring  Poland.  The  cele- 
brated song  which  the  soldiers  of  the  legion  had  composed 
far  from  their  native  land,  "  The  Dombrowski  March  " — "  It 
is  not  yet  all  over  with  Poland,  not  so  long  as  we  live " — 
contains  this  thought. 

But  after  the  peace  of  Luneville,  Bonaparte,  who  aspired 
to  imperial  dignity,  merely  wished  to  keep  the  Poles  as  a 
bodyguard  for  himself,  and  when  General  Kniaziewicz 
answered  him  by  demanding  his  dismissal,  he  determined 
to  get  rid  of  them.  They  were  first  sent  to  Italy,  and  there 
it  was  announced  to  them  that  they  were  to  go  to  St. 
Domingo  to  put  down  an  insurrection  of  negroes  who  were 
fighting  for  freedom.  Their  protests  availed  nothing.  Threat- 
ened on  all  sides  with  artillery,  they  were  embarked  at 
Genoa  and  Leghorn,  and  in  the  unhealthy  climate  and  in 
the  terrible  war  nearly  all  perished. 

And  yet  the  Polish  legions  again  fought  by  the  side  of 
the  French  at  Jena.  At  the  peace  of  Tilsit  Russia  was 
treated  leniently,  while  out  of  what  was  then  Prussian 
Poland  the  little  Grand-Duchy  of  Warsaw  was  created.  But 
this  was  enough  to  arouse  anew  the  confidence  of  the  Poles 
and  win  their  whole  trust.  When  preparations  were  made 
for  the  campaign  against  Russia,  it  was  in  vain  that  Kosciusko 
resisted  Napoleon's  hypocritical  advances  and  flatteries,  and 
demanded  positive  and  publicly  given  promises.  When 
Fouch6  was  unable  to  induce  Poland's  dictator  to  give  his 
name  by  threats,  they  imitated  his  signature,  and  by  a 
shameless  forgery  issued  a  proclamation  signed  by  Kosci- 
usko to  the  Polish  people,  which  earnestly  entreated  the 
Poles  to  unite  their  forces  with  those  of  the  French.  It 
might  have  been  supposed  that  they  were  cured  of  the 
worship  of  Napoleon.     But  in  spite  of  everything  which  had 


26  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND    , 

happened,  when,  in  1812,  Napoleon  crossed  the  Niemen,  by 
simply  calling  his  Russian  campaign  the  second  Polish  war, 
he  induced  80,000  Poles  under  Josef  Poniato^ski  to  accom- 
pany him.  The  following  year  only  8000  of  them  came 
back. 

The  Poles  are  as  vivacious  as  Southerners,  but  they  are 
not  a  politically  prudent  people,  educated  in  the  school  of 
Machiavelli,  like  the  Italians,  who  understood  how  to  make 
the  French  pull  the  chestnuts  out  of  the  fire  for  them. 
They  are  a  people  whose  legions  Napoleon  induced  to  shed 
their  blood  on  a  hundred  battlefields  merely  by  holding  the 
white  eagle  before  them,  and  a  people  whose  battalions 
Steinmetz,  in  1870,  induced  to  storm  the  terrible  heights  at 
Spicheren,  by  allowing  the  Prussian  bands  to  play  the 
melody  of  the  national  song,  Jeszcze  Polska  nie  zginela,  which 
is  prohibited  in  Posen  in  time  of  peace. 

Such  a  youthful  or  childish  enthusiasm  is  certainly  not  a 
sustaining  element  in  the  great  struggle  for  life  of  the  nations 
in  industrial  and  militarian  ages.  It  does  not  flourish  in 
conjunction  with  thrift,  industry,  discipline,  moderation,  and 
civil  prudence,  qualities  which  ensure  the  continuance  of  the 
individual  and  of  the  state. 

In  old  descriptions  of  the  Poles  it  is  commonly  said 
that  their  chivalry  and  personal  bravery  can  be  counted  on 
under  all  circumstances,  but  that  there  is  something  of  vanity 
in  their  magnanimity,  something  volatile  in  their  generosity, 
that  they  are  obstinate,  combative  and  quarrelsome,  recog- 
nising no  higher  law  than  their  own  will,  and  incapable  of 
keeping  this  will  long  on  the  same  point.  They  are  com- 
monly represented  as  poor  economists,  very  easily  involved 
in  pecuniary  embarrassments,  however  large  their  incomes, 
as  turning  over  thousands  of  books,  but  not  studying  any, 
as  being  exceedingly  erratic,  and  wasting  their  time  and 
talents.  It  has  been  charged  against  them  that  at  the  very 
time  they  were  raving  over  ideas  of  freedom,  they  were 
playing  the  autocrat  towards  their  peasants,  and  that  though 
they  are  the  most  tender  husbands,  they  have  two  or  three 
mistresses  as  well  as  the  adored  wife.  In  brief,  a  combina- 
tion of  eastern  and  western  peculiarities  is  ascribed  to  them. 


POLISH    CHARACTERISTICS  27 

Probably  there  was  a  great  deal  of  justice  and  truth  in 
this  older  view.  It  is  therefore  interesting  to  inquire  which 
of  these  characteristics  the  foreign  rule  has  developed  and 
which  it  has  obliterated. 

Love  of  external  splendour  is  necessarily  repressed.  It 
is  evidently  not  killed.  Love  for  all  that  is  symbolised  so 
profoundly  by  the  father's  plume  in  Cherbuliez's  Ladislaiis 
Bolskiy  lies  deep  in  the  Polish  nature.  The  father's  red  and 
white  plume,  which  Ladislaus  always  carries  with  him  in 
a  case,  is  the  glittering  principle  of  grandeur.  And  it  is 
extremely  significant  that  in  one  of  the  leading  poets  of 
Poland  this  definition  of  God  is  found : — 

"  I  see  that  he  is  not  the  God  of  the  worms  or  of  creep- 
ing things.  He  loves  the  flight  of  gigantic  birds  and  gives 
the  rein  to  the  rushing  horse.  He  is  the  fiery  plume  on  the 
proud  helmet." — (Beniowski,  5th  Canto.) 

Compare  the  prophet  Habakkuk's  grand  description 
of  God.  But  the  whole  spirit  of  Poland  is  in  these 
lines.  No  other  race  could  see  divinity  in  the  waving 
plume. 

Nevertheless  the  love  of  the  tinsel  and  spangles  of 
glory  is  necessarily  repressed  now  by  a  deeper  feeling  of 
honour. 

When  I  went  to  a  ball  in  the  town  hall  on  my  first 
evening  in  Warsaw,  where  a  thousand  people,  the  flower  of 
good  society  in  Warsaw,  were  assembled  in  the  large  saloon, 
the  fact  struck  me  that,  with  the  exception  of  three 
Russian  officers,  there  was  not  a  man  in  the  hall  who  wore 
a  decoration.  From  his  birth  almost  every  Pole  renounces 
decorations  as  well  as  uniforms.  There  is  a  tale  told  in 
Warsaw  of  a  poor  school-teacher  who  had  distinguished 
himself,  and  received  the  order  of  Stanislaus.  He  kept 
it  hidden  in  a  case,  and  only  used  it  to  punish  his 
children  with.  When  the  youngest  was  naughty,  he  said, 
"  If  you  cry  again,  you  shall  wear  the  order  of  Stanislaus 
about  your  neck  at  dinner."     That  was  enough. 

The  essentially  aristocratic  character  of  the  nation 
still  exists,  though  greatly  modified.  The  Pole  has  no 
inborn    inclination  to  the  civic  virtues ;    his    ideal    is,    and 


28  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

continues  to  be,  that  of  a  grand  seigneur.  The  aversion  to 
counting  and  saving,  to  reckoning  and  computing  and  keep- 
ing accounts,  is  universal.  In  all  places  where  Germans 
and  Poles  compete  in  the  domain  of  trade  and  industry, 
the  Poles  get  the  worst  of  it.  The  great  manufacturers 
in  Russian  Poland,  who,  thanks  to  the  enormous  pro- 
tective duty,  enrich  themselves  at  the  expense  of  the 
purchasers,  are  almost  without  exception  immigrant  Aus- 
trians  or  Prussians.  Nay,  in  this  century,  a  whole  manu- 
facturing town  (Lodz)  has  sprung  up  and  grown  with 
American  speed  ;  a  town,  which,  lying  in  the  middle  of 
Poland,  was  founded  and  is  inhabited  by  Germans  only. 
The  Poles  are,  and  continue  to  be,  an  aristocratic  race  ; 
the  middle  class,  which  has  been  gradually  wedged  in  be- 
tween the  nobles  and  the  peasants,  is  yet  comparatively 
small,  and,  for  a  long  time  to  come,  for  the  educated 
Pole  of  distinction,  the  life  of  the  burgess  will  mean  a  life 
passed  in  eating  and  drinking,  or,  as  the  Count  says  in 
Krasinsky's  Godless  Comedy,  in  "sleeping  the  sleep  of  the 
German  Philistine  with  his  German  wife." 

But  we  must  not  forget  that  the  Szlachta  in  its  con- 
stitution was  something  very  different  from  the  nobility  in 
most  of  the  countries  of  Europe.  It  was  never  a  separate 
caste.  After  the  victorious  defence  of  Vienna  John  Sobieski 
ennobled  all  his  cavalry.  Even  in  our  century  whole 
regiments  of  infantry  have  been  ennobled.  There  are 
thus  at  this  moment  in  the  different  parts  of  Poland 
not  less  than  120,000  noble  families.  The  nobility  thus 
corresponds  here  most  nearly  to  what  elsewhere  in  Europe 
is  the  upper  middle  class.  It  must  also  be  noted  that 
the  titles,  prince,  marquis,  &c.,  are  not  originally  Polish,  but 
were  first  conferred  upon  the  most  important  families  by 
the  foreign  conquerors,  for  which  reason  they  are  not  much 
used  in  the  country.  In  Warsaw  in  speaking  French  they 
address  a  countess  as  madame  and  not  as  comtesse.  Even 
on  making  introductions  I  never  heard  any  titles  given 
among  the  aristocracy — an  agreeable  thing  when  one  comes 
from  Germany. 

At  the  same  time  the  relations  between  people  of  rank 


POLISH    CHARACTERISTICS  29 

and  their  inferiors  have  certainly  something  Asiatic.  No 
small  degree  of  extravagance  is  usual  in  the  employment 
of  servants.  In  every  house  owned  by  a  person  of  ample 
means,  for  instance,  there  is  a  doorkeeper  who  sits  the  whole 
day  on  a  chair  at  the  entrance  to  open  the  open  hall 
door.  A  Dane  could  never  be  induced  to  sit  so  long  on 
a  chair.  I  was  also  much  struck  by  the  inclination  or 
custom  of  the  servants  to  wait  up  for  the  master  at  night, 
even  when  they  were  allowed  to  go  to  bed.  Finally, 
according  to  northern  ideas,  their  humility  was  amazing. 
A  Polish  servant  does  not  kiss  his  master's  hand  but  his 
sleeve,  and  so  deeply  rooted  is  this  custom  of  expressing 
gratitude  or  affection  that  I  have  repeatedly  seen  young 
Polish  students  carry  to  their  lips  the  arm  of  a  man  to 
whom  they  wished  to  show  respect. 

The  Poles  have  not  become  much  more  economical 
under  foreign  rule  than  before.  If  any  change  had  taken 
place  in  this  respect  it  would  have  been  in  Posen,  where 
the  German  example  has  made  itself  felt.  They  are 
prodigal  of  their  time. 

As  there  is  no  freedom  of  meeting,  as  no  kind  of  associa- 
tion is  allowed  —  the  only  club  in  Warsaw  was  closed, 
when  a  few  years  since  it  tried  to  prevent  riots  against 
the  Jews  in  a  suburb  in  which  the  police  did  not  interfere 
— as,  generally  speaking,  all  public  life  is  forbidden,  so  that 
fifty  men  cannot  assemble  in  a  hall  without  the  permission 
and  surveillance  of  the  police,  private  society,  which  has  to 
supply  everything  that  is  lacking  in  this  direction,  consumes 
an  enormous  amount  of  time. 

The  hospitality  is  very  great  and  very  tasteful.  An 
exceptional  quality  which  is  inborn  in  the  race,  is  tact. 
In  this  connection  I  must  be  allowed  to  note  with 
gratitude  the  delicacy  with  which  hospitality  was  shown 
to  me  on  my  arrival  at  Warsaw.  I  was  taken  to  large, 
luxuriously  furnished  apartments,  adorned  with  fine  pictures, 
and  supplied  with  books  ;  my  name  was  on  the  door  ;  on  the 
writing-table  were  visiting  cards  with  my  Warsaw  address  ; 
and  two  servants  who  could  speak  foreign  languages  were 
told  off  to  wait  upon  me. 


30  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

Hospitality  is  a  deep-seated  instinct  among  the  Poles. 
It  is  certainly  exercised  towards  foreigners  more  lavishly 
now  that  foreigners  seldom  visit  Poland,  but  the  chief 
reason  of  its  culmination  among  the  native  born  of  to-day 
is  evidently  that  social  intercourse  has  so  completely  to 
supply  the  place  of  public  life. 


IV 

THE  POLES  AND  THE  FRENCH  —  INSTABILITY, 
DILETTANTISM— FEVERISH  CHARACTER  OF  THE 
PLEASURES  OF  LIFE— STRENGTH  AND  SUSCEPTI- 
BILITY OF   THE   NATIONAL  FEELING 

In  many  ways  Warsaw  affects  the  foreigner  almost  as  if  it 
were  a  French  city.  French  is  the  auxiliary  language  of  the 
Poles,  the  language  which  among  the  higher  classes  all  know 
perfectly — although  I  met  several  who  had  half  forgotten  it 
during  a  twenty  years'  exile  in  Siberia — the  language  which 
is  spoken  as  fluently  as  the  mother-tongue  and  even  better 
than  the  Russians  speak  it.  In  aristocratic  circles  Poles  fre- 
quently converse  with  one  another  in  French,  a  state  of  things 
which  from  the  beginning  of  the  century  was  promoted  not 
only  by  the  continual  intellectual  intercourse  with  France, 
and  the  emigration  thereto,  but  by  the  need  of  being  able 
to  meet  the  Russians  on  neutral  territory  so  far  as  language 
is  concerned.  As  the  Poles  in  addition  are  now  frequently 
called  the  Frenchmen  of  the  North  or  East,  and  as  they 
themselves  believe  that  they  are  closely  related  to  the  French 
through  their  defects,  which  they  themselves  characterise  as 
inconstancy  and  instability,  the  foreigner  is  constantly  asked 
if  he  does  not  see  a  great  and  lamentable  similarity  between 
the  Poles  and  the  French. 

This  great  similarity  is  purely  imaginary. 

The  trifling  similarity  which  does  exist  consists  in  a  cog- 
nate capacity  for  swift  enthusiasms  and  violent  revulsions  of 
feeling,  a  craving  for  adventures  and  emotions,  and  a  love 
of  fame  and  show. 

But  these  points  of  similarity  do  not  exclude  a  funda- 
mental difference.     The  rationalistic,  argumentative  basis  of 


32  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

the  French  character  is  entirely  absent  in  the  Pole.  The 
algebraic,  arithmetical  basis  of  the  French  manner  of  thought 
is  wholly  wanting  in  the  Pole.  The  Frenchman  is  a  greatl 
writer  of  prose,  the  Pole  is  a  poet.  On  this  account  the 
stronghold  of  the  French  world  of  letters  is  prose,  that  of 
the  Polish,  poetry — verse.  In  addition  nothing  can  well  be 
less  French  than  the  continual  and  perfect  use  of  a  foreign 
language,  the  remarkable  knowledge  of  foreign  authors, 
which  meet  one  everywhere  in  Poland.  Young  girls  of 
twenty  who  speak  six  languages  perfectly  and  without 
accent  are  met  in  Poland,  certainly  not  in  France.  Almost 
every  young  man  or  woman  of  the  higher  classes  knows  the 
most  important  capitals  of  Europe,  and  knows  the  most 
important  literatures  to  a  great  extent.  The  passionate 
fondness  for  travel  and  the  versatility  of  culture  resulting 
therefrom  are  in  the  highest  degree  un-French.  The  Pole 
widens  his  purview  and  diminishes  his  brain  power  by 
learning  four  or  five  foreign  languages  ;  the  Frenchman  as 
a  rule  is  either  ignorant  or  a  specialist. 

But  the  most  striking  difference  assuredly  lies  in  the 
relations  between  the  sexes.  The  fundamental  trait  of  the 
Polish  national  character  is  a  certain  combination  of  mild- 
ness and  energy.  But  what  gives  Polish  character,  and 
especially  Polish  patriotism  in  this  century,  its  special  stamp, 
is  the  preponderance  of  the  feminine  elements  over  the 
masculine. 

That  the  relations  between  man  and  woman  are  very 
different  in  Poland  and  in  France  is  quickly  perceived 
in  daily  conversation.  While  the  tone  among  French- 
men, whenever  conversation  turns  on  women,  is  always 
extremely  free,  sometimes  to  a  foreigner  repulsive,  and 
generally  lascivious,  the  Poles  as  a  rule  in  discussing 
women  manifest  warmth,  often  tenderness  or  indulgence, 
but,  so  far  as  I  could  judge,  seldom  frivolity. 

I  have  found  a  remark  in  an  Italian  author  which  possibly 
goes  to  the  root  of  this.  He  thinks  that  while  as  a  rule 
among  the  Germanic  races  the  man  is  more  gifted  than  the 
woman,  and  while  among  the  Latin  races  man  and 
woman    on    an    average    stand    on    the    same    level     as    to 


POLITICAL  INFLUENCE  OF  POLISH   WOMEN      33 

intellectual  qualities,  among  the  Poles,  the  most  character- 
istic Slav  race,  woman  is  decidedly  superior  to  man.  If 
we  set  aside  the  power  of  invention  or  production,  we  must 
be  struck  with  the  truth  of  these  words.  The  men  in 
Poland  are  certainly  not  wanting  in  passion,  in  courage  and 
in  energy,  in  wit,  in  love  of  freedom,  but  it  seems  as  if  the 
women  have  more  of  these  qualities.  In  Poland's  great  up- 
risings they  have  been  known  to  enter  into  conspiracies,  to  do 
military  duty,  and  frequently  enough  of  their  own  free  will  to 
accompany  their  loved  ones  to  Siberia.  Mickiewicz's  Gracynoj 
who  led  an  army  on  horseback,  has  had  successors  in  this 
century.  Celebrated  above  all  others  is  Emilia  Plater,  a 
young  lady  of  one  of  the  first  families  of  Poland,  who  in 
1830  induced  a  whole  district  to  rise  in  rebellion,  took  part 
in  several  battles,  and  at  last,  having  joined  the  detachments 
under  Dembinski  which  refused  to  take  refuge  on  Prussian 
soil,  attempted  to  cut  her  way  with  her  corps  through  the 
hostile  army,  but  in  December,  1831,  died  of  want  and  over- 
exertion at  the  age  of  26,  in  the  hut  of  a  forester.  Mickie- 
wicz's, beautiful  poem,  The  Colonel's  Death,  celebrated  her 
memory.  During  the  rebellion  of  1830-31  there  was  not 
a  battalion  nor  a  squadron  of  the  Polish  army  in  which 
there  were  not  female  combatants  ;  after  a  battle  or  a  march 
the  soldiers  always  arranged  a  bivouac  for  the  women,  just 
as  they  took  care  that  no  word  was  spoken  which  could 
offend  their  ears.^ 

The  time  for  such  achievements  is  now  past,  but  still 
the  women  are  ever  the  most  earnest  patriots,  because  they 
feel  the  most  warmly  and  criticise  the  least  keenly.  Never- 
theless, the  influence  of  woman  has  somewhat  fallen  off  in  the 
last  twenty  years.  Once  the  women  laboured  as  the  chief 
supporters  of  the  Catholic  faith  ;  but  faith  is  vanishing  where 
it  has  not  vanished.  Once  the  woman  laboured  in  the  same 
way  as  the  priest,  but  the  union  between  the  women  and 

^  In  his  book  on  Poland  General  Roman  Solyk  says :  "  When  Warsaw  was 
attacked,  I  noticed  in  the  midst  of  the  fire  a  soldier  of  the  fifth  light  regiment  who 
continually  leaned  against  the  breastworks,  did  not  trouble  himself  in  the  least  about 
the  bombs  and  cannon-balls,  but  cheered  his  comrades  on  with  vigorous  gestures  and 
cries.  Though  he  stood  in  the  front  rank  I  could  not  at  first  see  his  face  ;  but  when 
he  turned  I  discovered  him  to  be  a  beautiful  girl  of  1 8." 

C 


34  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

the  clergy  is  dissolving,  just  as  culture  and  the  Church  are 
drifting  apart.  And  in  addition  to  this,  as  all  public  life 
is  forbidden,  and  there  are  neither  assemblies  nor  unions 
of  any  kind,  the  men  seek  each  other  almost  exclusively 
in  social  life.  Since  the  reception-room  does  duty  as  a 
place  of  political  and  literary  assemblies,  the  men  think 
less  of  winning  women  to  their  interests  there.  The  latter 
feel  themselves  set  aside,  overlooked  and  abandoned,  as 
in  South  Germany,  where  the  man  passes  all  his  evenings 
in  the  ale-house,  only  the  desertion  has  other  causes. 
The  pressure  from  above  has  evidently  greatly  aided  in 
separating  the  sexes  and  diminishing  the  social  influence  of 
woman.  It  may  at  the  present  time  be  weaker  in  Poland 
than  in  France.  The  education  of  the  young  girls,  more- 
over, is  conducted  in  much  the  same  way  as  there — they 
are  never  left  a  moment  unprotected — and  marriages  are 
made  in  the  same  manner  as  in  France  ;  the  contracting 
parties  seldom  know  much  of  each  other  before  the  wedding, 
and  generally  see  each  other  for  the  first  time  a  few  weeks 
before. 

So  far  as  the  Polish  instability  is  concerned,  it  also  has 
no  similarity  to  the  French.  The  instability  of  the  French 
shows  itself  more  particularly  in  public  life,  especially  where 
they  are  collected  in  masses,  as  in  public  meetings  or  mobs. 
It  depends  on  the  sudden  change  of  mood,  for  which  no 
single  person  feels  himself  responsible.  The  instability  of 
the  Poles  is  personal,  depends  partly  on  the  propensity  to 
change,  and  partly  on  an  instinctive  inclination  to  universality. 

In  France  the  ruling  principle  is  a  prudent  and  some- 
times subtle  egoism  which  runs  in  the  family  and  is  in- 
herited by  the  children,  which  is  impressed  upon  them 
from  the  beginning,  and  which  as  a  rule  directs  their  lives. 
Parents  do  not,  as  in  England  and  America,  first  strive  to 
develop  the  youth  into  a  capable  man,  able  to  help  himself, 
but  they  try  to  smoothe  his  path  in  life,  procure  for  him 
favours,  connections,  patronage,  assure  his  future  or  his 
advancement.  And  if  the  path  is  smoothed,  the  young 
man  will  not  willingly  abandon  his  career  before  the  highest 
rung  of  the  ladder  of  honour  is  reached. 


DESULTORY    CAREERS    OF    YOUNG    POLES     35 

The  situation  is  entirely  different  in  Poland,  where  the 
young  man  in  private  life  far  oftener  allows  himself  to  be 
led  by  fleeting  instinct  than  by  prudent  egoism,  and  where 
a  single  public  interest  (the  lost  fatherland,  the  lost  inde- 
pendence, the  mother-tongue,  the  national  literature  and  art), 
stands  immutable  and  imperishable. 

Undoubtedly  the  foreign  rule  has  tended  to  obliterate 
Polish  inconstancy  in  this  highest  domain  ;  on  the  other 
hand,  it  has  necessarily  increased  the  national  instability 
within  the  circle  of  private  life. 

For  what  can  an  educated  young  man  do  in  Russian 
Poland  ?  For  instance,  he  studies  law  ;  he  can  never  become 
a  judge,  generally  not  even  an  official,  without  separating 
himself  from  all  intercourse  with  his  countrymen.  He 
studies  medicine  ;  he  can  never  obtain  a  post  at  a  university, 
never  be  at  the  head  of  a  hospital,  never  conduct  a  public 
clinic,  therefore  can  never  attain  the  first  rank  in  his  science. 
The  result  is  that  if  he  has  means — and  there  is  still  great 
wealth  in  Poland,  since  to  be  rich  is  almost  the  only  thing 
which  is  permitted  to  every  one — he  goes  from  one  study  to 
another,  obtains  a  smattering  of  different  branches  of  science, 
surprises  the  foreigner  by  the  versatility  of  his  knowledge 
and  information,  but  has  no  real  mastery  of  anything. 

The  following  instances  were  given  me  in  my  own 
circle  :  A  very  able  young  man  began  as  a  jurist,  passed  on 
to  medicine  and  became  a  physician,  then  gave  that  up  and 
bought  an  estate,  studied  agriculture,  mechanics,  &c.,  for  four 
years,  introduced  many  improvements  on  his  estate,  shortly 
after  sold  it,  and  at  the  present  time  is  the  best  theatrical 
critic  in  Warsaw.  Another  young  man  began  life  as  a 
farmer,  had  given  up  agriculture  for  music,  qualified  as  a 
virtuoso,  abandoned  the  career,  established  a  manufactory 
of  instruments,  made  violoncellos  for  several  years,  lost 
interest  in  that,  and  is  now  working  at  the  Academy  of  Art 
in  Munich  as  a  genre-painter. 

They  have  too  many  talents  and  too  little  inducement 
to  persevere. 

The  women  complain  bitterly  of  this.  Like  good  wives 
they  endeavour  to  share  their  husbands'  interests,  to  identify 


36  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

themselves  with  their  occupations,  and  are  in  despair  that 
eve^y  second  or  third  year  they  have  to  mterest  tiienise  v  s 
in  something  quite  different.  They  med.tate  wth  anxiety 
on  what  the  next  year  may  brmg. 

One  evening/when  Feuillefs  DalUa  was  acted  at  the 
theaire,  and  whtn  the  actor  who  took  the  part  of  Carmo  . 
was  not  especially  happy,  I  could  not  suppress  an  out- 
bu  St  of  wonder  that  the  actor  could  be  in  want  of  a  type 
of  the  genial  dikUanU  who  educates  the  young  composer 
in  a  city  like  Warsaw,  where  there  are  so  many  men  of 
Carnioirs  stamp.  The  most  admirable  type  stood  by  my 
side  behind  the  scenes.  And  the  same  evenmg  when  m 
atge  circle  1  was  asked  how  as  a  critic  1  would  chara;'e"se 
Polish  society,  I  answered:  "You  are  a  socety  ol  Meltantu 

I  beheve  that  the  definition  is  correct,  taking  the  word  .n 
its  broad  sense,  and  bearing  in  mind  how  the  Poles  have 
come  to  be  what  they  are. 

We  must  picture  to  ourselves  a  naturally  very  energetic 
peopTe?  against    whose   energy  a  barrier  not  to   be   broken 
down  has  been  erected,  a  warlike  people,  who  only  reluc- 
fanTly  enter  the  army,  in  which  practically  no  young  man 
vduntarily  chooses  the  post  of  officer  ;   an   extremely    am- 
bitious people,  to  whom  all  high  positions  and  offices  are 
closed,  a'nd  to  whom  all  distinctions  and  demonstrations  o 
honour   are   forbidden,   in  so  far   as  tliey  are    not    bought 
w^S,  sacrifice  of  conviction  or  denial  of  solidarity  with  their 
Tount^ymen  ;  a  people  naturally  hostile  to  Ph.lishne  ideaU 
■but  who   needed  to  acquire   the    civic    virtues,   and   «ho  e 
c^cumstances   now  give    them   constant  en-°"-g«-«"*  *" 
unsteadiness  ;  a  pleasure-loving  people  in  whose  capita    not 
a  single  public  place  of  entertainment  is  found  ;  a  people 
ti  h  a  lively  irresistible  inclination  to  polit.cs,  for  whom  all 
political  education  has  been  made  impossible,  because  they 
are    allowed   neither  to   elect  representatives  nor  to  d  scuss 
affairs  of  state,  and  whose  political  press  is  silenced  in   all 
Seal  matter's  ;  to  speak  of  political  newspapers  m  Poland 
•s  like   speaking  of    nautical  journals    in    Swi^erUnd      Le 
us  imagine  to  ourselves  this  people,  constituted  for/.'^^ge 
free  life  in  the  broad  daylight  of  publicity,  imprisoned  in  the 


FEVERISH   SOCIAL  LIFE  OF  THE  POLES       37 

chiaroscuro  of  private  life  ;  let  us  conceive  a  people  who,  from 
the  time  of  Arild,  had  the  most  extravagant  conceptions  of 
the  rights  of  the  individual  in  regard  to  the  power  of  the 
state,  living  their  life  without  any  sort  of  public  security 
against  encroachments  on  the  part  of  an  accidental  superior 
official,  thinking  of  Siberia,  as  we  think  of  a  disease,  which 
may  come  when  least  expected. 

Conceiving  all  this,  we  shall  understand  that  under  the 
pressure,  which  has  been  exerted  simultaneously  from  so 
many  sides,  there  necessarily  sprang  up  an  extraordinary  con- 
centrated activity,  a  boiling  intensity  of  life,  in  the  narrow 
circle  which  remained  to  them. 

As  the  actual  people  were  shut  out,  as  all  education  of 
them,  all  approach  to  knowledge  was  made  impossible,  the 
higher  classes,  which  could  not  adequately  recruit  themselves, 
came  to  lead  a  kind  of  island  life  of  the  highest  and  most 
refined  culture,  a  life,  which  is  indeed  national  in  every  heart- 
beat, but  cosmopolitan  in  every  form  of  expression,  a  hot- 
house life,  where  flowers  of  all  the  civilisations  of  Europe 
have  come  to  development  and  exhale  fragrance,  an  eddy- 
ing, seething  maelstrom  life  of  ideas,  endeavours,  amusements 
and  fdtes.  The  best  society  scarcely  ever  goes  to  bed  before 
four  o'clock  in  the  morning  in  the  month  of  February.  In 
carnival  time  the  day  in  Warsaw  has  twenty  hours,  and 
so  long  as  the  season  lasts  they  are  prodigal  of  time  and 
strength. 

"  Life  in  Warsaw  is  a  neurosis,"  said  one  of  the  most  in- 
telligent men  of  the  city  to  me  ;  "  no  one  can  keep  it  up 
long." 

This  people,  who  discovered  the  dance  of  the  planets 
around  the  sun,  also,  as  is  well  known,  invented  the  polonaise 
with  its  proud  solemnity,  and  the  mazurka,  with  its  contrast 
of  masculine  force  and  feminine  gentleness,  and  the  people 
are  perhaps  almost  as  proud  of  the  mazurka  as  of  Coperni- 
cus. In  Poland  the  mazurka  is  not  the  dance  we  call  by 
that  name,  but  a  long,  difficult,  and  impassioned  national 
dance,  in  which  the  gentlemen  and  ladies,  though  they  dance 
hand  in  hand,  constantly  make  different  steps  in  the  same 
time.       It    is    a    genuine    sorrow    to    the    Poles    that    the 


38  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

consistent  Russian  government  has  forbidden  the  dancing  of 
this  dance  in  the  national  costume  ;  and  the  fourth  or  fifth 
question  the  foreigner  is  asked  in  Warsaw  is  this :  "  Have 
you  seen  our  national  dance?"  In  every  other  country  it 
would  at  least  be  the  thirtieth  or  fortieth. 

They  dance  all  through  the  carnival  time  as  people  dance 
in  no  other  place.  Probably  nowhere  else  are  so  many  charity 
balls  given.  They  dance  for  everything — for  "  the  poor 
sewing  girls,"  for  "  the  poor  students,"  &c.  I  do  not  deny 
that  many  times,  when  I  stood  watching  the  dances — some- 
times I  was  invited  to  two  balls  on  the  same  night — I  could  not 
help  remembering  the  old  hard  adage  :  slavus  saltans  !  But 
as  a  young  girl  said  in  allusion  to  a  moralising  article  in 
Prawda :  "  What  would  be  the  advantage  if  we  left  off  dancing 
in  Warsaw  ?  " 

Yet  the  gaiety  with  which  they  whirl  is  not  the  common 
joy  of  life  ;  it  reminds  us  rather  of  that  which  the  prisoners 
of  the  Revolution  displayed  in  their  ignorance  as  to  what 
the  next  day  would  bring  forth.  This  levity  is  not  common 
levity,  but  a  lightness  often  found  in  those  who  daily  defy 
suffering  and  death. 

For  like  reasons  at  times  they  are  more  serious  than 
people  on  similar  occasions  in  other  countries.  At  a  very 
sedate  entertainment  which  the  representatives  of  literature 
and  art  gave  me,  when  there  were  a  series  of  speeches 
in  French  and  Latin,  the  ancient  festival  tongue  of  the 
Poles,  it  happened,  when  one  of  the  speakers  said  some 
words  which  especially  excited  those  assembled,  that  tears 
at  once  stood  in  their  eyes,  and  that  old  men,  who  had 
passed  a  whole  period  of  their  lives  in  Siberia,  and  hundreds 
of  times  had  seen  death  staring  them  in  the  face,  sprang 
up,  and  while  the  tears  rolled  down  their  cheeks,  embraced 
the  speaker.  It  seems,  then,  as  if  the  foreign  rule  had 
equally  increased  the  susceptibility  to  social  enjoyment  and 
the  susceptibility  to  serious  emotion.  The  power  of  feeling 
pleasure  and  pain,  the  disposition  to  tears  and  laughter,  seem 
to  be  as  strong  as  in  the  sick. 

Besides,  passionately  as  the  Poles  are  a  people  of  the 
moment,  just  as  thoroughly  are  they  a  people  of  memories. 


PATRIOTISM    IN    ART    AND    LETTERS  39 

Nowhere  else  can  be  found  such  a  religion  of  remembrance, 
such  a  clinging  to  national  recollections.  They  cling  to 
everything  that  can  recall  the  Poland  of  the  past.  It  is 
true  that  all  the  works  of  art  of  the  city  and  all  the 
treasures  of  the  nation  have  been  carried  away  to  St.  Peters- 
burg ;  the  city  has  even  been  robbed  of  the  great  Zaluski 
library  of  300,000  volumes,  but  the  more  stubbornly  do  the 
people  hold  on  to  national  recollections.  They  have 
been  assisted  in  this  endeavour  in  the  most  forcible  manner 
by  the  fact  that  all  the  Polish  poetry  and  historical 
writings  of  this  century,  as  well  as  Polish  painting,  have 
been  pressed  into  the  service  of  the  national  idea.  Artists 
like  Mateiko  and  Brandt — both  admirable  colourists  who 
fall  short  in  simplicity  and  perspicuity  of  composition — 
almost  constantly  treat  national  historical  subjects ;  their 
poets  have  treated  Poland  and  Poland's  fate,  even  when,  like 
Krasinski  in  Irydion,  they  place  the  action  in  old  Rome,  or  like 
Slowacki  in  Anheli,  transfer  the  scene  to  a  fantastic  Siberia. 
Poetry  in  the  Polish  home  has  the  same  importance  as 
religion.  The  best  works  are,  or  have  been,  strictly  forbidden 
reading.  Their  acquisition  as  well  as  their  possession  was 
perilous.  Generally  the  books,  when  they  had  been  carefully 
read  till  the  thoughts  were  remembered,  even  if  the  words 
were  forgotten,  were  burned — with  the  same  pain  with  which 
a  woman  who  is  not  free  burns  a  letter  from  the  man 
she  loves.  But  they  have  not  forgotten  in  Poland,  how, 
when  the  young  Levitoux  was  put  into  the  citadel  in  Warsaw 
because  a  copy  of  Mickiewicz's  Dziady  had  been  found  in 
his  house,  in  his  despair  after  the  torture  he  had  suffered, 
and  in  his  anxiety  lest  in  his  ravings  he  should  name  his 
comrades,  he  with  his  manacled  hands  pulled  his  night-lamp 
under  his  bed  of  rushes,  and  burned  himself  to  death  ;  nor 
have  they  forgotten  that  several  hundred  Lithuanian  students 
were  sent  to  Siberia  for  having  published  the  Temptation  of 
Krasinski  in  book  form  after  the  poem,  which  the  censor  had 
not  understood,  had  seen  the  light  in  the  feuilleton  of  a  little 
paper. 

The  national  authors  are  found  to-day  in  every  house, 
and  even  if  the  Poles  have  been  obliged  to  establish  their 


40  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

national  museum  at  Rapperswyl,  Switzerland,  for  safety,  still 
there  is  to  be  found  in  almost  every  home  in  Warsaw  an 
album  with  reproductions  of  Arthur  Grottger's  remarkable 
paintings  at  Cracow,  representing  the  history  of  the  sufferings 
of  Poland,  a  (prohibited)  lithograph  of  the  same  artist's 
March  of  the  Exiles  to  Siberia,  and  some  pictures  of  the  defence 
of  Warsaw  in  1831,  representing  the  last  Polish  regiment, 
which  blew  itself  up  with  Ordon's  redoubt.  The  Poles  regard 
with  tenderness  and  emotion  not  only  the  faces,  but  the 
antique,  semi-comical  chasseur  uniform  of  the  soldiers,  with 
the  swallow-tail  coats.  This  was,  it  is  true,  the  last  Polish 
military  uniform. 

It  is  in  accordance  with  this  national  feeling,  made  vigilant 
by  oppression,  that  they  cherish  a  hatred  for  all  foreign 
authors  who  occasionally  or  systematically  depreciate  the 
Poles.  Not  that  they  took  Heine's  celebrated  lampoon 
(Zwei  Ritter)  about  the  two  valiant  noblemen,  Krapiilinski  and 
Waschlapski  much  to  heart.  They  have  laughed  at  its  wit 
and  know  it  by  heart,  and  they  know  very  well  how 
warmly  he  expressed  himself  in  many  places  about  Poland. 
But  they  are  familiar  with  Freytag's  Soil  und  Haben ;  they 
attach  great  importance  to  a  casual  remark  of  the  younger 
Dumas  about  the  Poles  from  everywherey  who  took  part  in 
the  insurrection  of  the  Commune,  and  in  February  they 
were  in  an  uproar  over  the  word  ausrotten  (exterminate),  in 
reference  to  the  Poles  in  Prussia,  used  by  Eduard  von  Hart- 
mann  in  an  article  in  a  review,  an  expression  which  they 
took  too  much  au  serieux.  The  Poles  pay  altogether  too 
much  attention  to  what  is  written  about  them  in  Europe. 
Anxiety  as  to  what  is  said  about  one  is  a  general  accompani- 
ment of  weakness. 


CONSOLIDATION  OF  EVERYTHING  POLISH  —  RELI- 
GIOUS BELIEFS  AND  PARTIES  —  POLAND  A 
SYMBOL 

A  WEIGHTY,  and  for  Poland  a  decidedly  happy,  result  of 
the  foreign  rule  has  been  the  welding  and  uniting  of  every- 
thing Polish.  All  provincial  differences  have  vanished  in 
this  unity  ;  the  different  parts  of  Poland,  Austrian,  Russian, 
and  Prussian  Poles  feel  that  they  are  without  exception  one 
people.  In  these  later  days,  Austrian  Poland  has  become 
the  centre  about  which  the  others  cluster,  since  the  Poles 
in  Galicia  have  a  parliament,  where  their  language  may  be 
spoken,  besides  two  national  universities,  and  whole  towns 
where  many  things  may  be  printed,  which  the  Russian  censor 
would  forbid. 

And  like  the  provinces,  so  all  the  religious  sects  are 
merged  in  the  national  unity. 

Poland  was  once  an  exclusively  Roman  Catholic  land. 
Now  mixed  marriages  are  of  frequent  occurrence  in  Warsaw. 
In  the  two  homes  with  which  I  was  most  familiar,  in  one  the 
husband  was  a  Protestant  and  the  wife  a  Catholic  ;  in  the 
other  the  husband  was  a  Catholic  and  the  wife  a  Protestant. 
It  must  be  added  that  in  neither  of  these  homes  did  the 
religious  faith  play  an  important  part. 

As  to  the  Jews,  who  are  so  numerous  in  Poland,  because 
the  kingdom  of  Poland  offered  them  an  asylum  during  their 
long  persecution,  that  form  of  hatred  of  the  Jews,  which  has 
been  decorated  with  the  affected  name  of  Antisemitism,  and 
which  certain  sections  of  Danish  society  with  their  inclina- 
tions to  cultivate  German  reaction  and  German  rudeness 
have  imported,  has  not  struck  root  at  all  in  Russian  Poland. 
Of    course    the  far-reaching    mutual    aversion   of  Jews   and 


42  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Russians,  dating  from  a  thousand  years  back,  persists  even 
here.  The  peasants  have  no  dealings  with  the  Jews,  and  it  is 
only  recently  that  the  Jews  have  been  placed  on  the  same 
footing  as  the  other  citizens.  Nevertheless,  even  in  1794, 
when  despair  armed  Warsaw  against  Russia,  they  took  part 
in  the  national  defence  ;  a  regiment  of  Jewish  volunteers 
fought  under  Kosciusko's  banners,  led  by  the  Jewish  Colonel 
Berko,  who  in  1809  fell  fighting  against  the  Austrians.  In 
1830  the  same  prejudiced  and  irresolute  national  govern- 
ment, which  rejected  the  aid  of  the  peasants,  and  would  have 
nothing  to  do  with  the  revolt  in  the  old  Polish  provinces, 
rejected  the  applications  of  the  Jews  to  be  allowed  to  enter 
the  army  instead  of  paying  for  exemption  as  formerly. 
When  the  rebellion  was  suppressed,  Nicholas  punished  them 
for  this  application  by  incorporating  them  with  his  own 
army,  and  that  was  not  enough.  Since  the  Jews  had  also 
asked  the  national  government  for  permission  to  share  in  the 
higher  and  lower  general  instruction  of  the  people,  the  Tzar 
declared  that  for  the  future  he  would  take  care  of  their 
education.  He  caused  36,000  Jewish  families  to  be  taken 
across  the  frontier,  "  in  order  to  remove  the  temptation  to 
smuggle,"  as  it  was  said,  and  ordered  them  to  settle  on  the 
steppes  of  Southern  Russia  and  cultivate  the  soil  there.  The 
Cossacks  came  with  the  order  of  expulsion.  All  furniture 
was  thrown  out  into  the  street,  old  men,  women,  small 
children,  exhausted  and  famished,  were  obliged  to  drag  them- 
selves away  to  the  place  of  destination.  If  a  woman  sank 
down  fainting  by  the  way,  the  husband  had  to  go  on 
notwithstanding.  And  at  the  new  place  of  abode  the  exiles 
were  crushed  by  the  most  severe  of  punishments  :  child-con- 
scription. In  the  great  raids  of  1842  all  the  small  boys 
of  six  years  and  upwards  were  seized  and  sent  under  Cossack 
guards  to  Archangel  to  be  brought  up  as  sailors.  Of  course 
they  died  like  flies  on  the  way. 

Common  misfortune  has  united  the  Polish  Jews  to  their 
Christian  fellow-countrymen.  For  the  other  Poles  have 
also  been  compelled  to  endure  the  loss  of  their  children. 
An  order  from  Prince  Paskiewicz  of  March  24,  1832,  which 
was  executed,  began  thus :  "  It  has  pleased  his  Majesty  the 


COHESION    OF    JEWS    AND    POLES  43 

Tzar  to  command,  that  all  strolling,  orphan,  or  poor  boys 
in  Poland  shall  be  admitted  into  the  militia  battalions, 
and  subsequently  be  sent  away  in  a  body  to  Minsk, 
when  decision  will  be  made  about  them  according  to  the 
regulations  of  his  Majesty's  general  staff."  And  the  execu- 
tion of  this  order  is  not  any  exceptional  incident.  Six 
years  later — April  13,  1838 — the  following  communica- 
tion from  the  council  of  the  government  appeared  in  the 
Warsaw  newspapers  :  "  On  the  8th  of  this  month,  in  the 
Town  Hall,  there  will  be  a  public  offer  of  contracts  for  the 
transport  to  St.  Petersburg  and  Ural  of  some  thousands  of 
the  sons  of  Polish  noblemen."  From  this  time  forth  Jewish 
and  Christian  Poles  have  felt,  not  indeed  as  a  community,  but 
as  a  nation.  The  fraternising  of  the  people  with  the  Jews  in 
Warsaw  in  i86o  solved  the  question  as  the  equality  of  the 
latter,  and  when  in  February  1861,  in  the  square  before  the 
castle,  and  in  another  larger  square,  shots  were  fired  upon 
the  kneeling  crowd,  who  with  the  mouths  of  the  Russian 
cannon  before  their  eyes,  gave  utterance  to  a  national  hymn, 
and  besought  God  to  send  to  the  Poles  freedom  and  a  father- 
land, the  Jews  felt  impelled  to  manifest  their  national  dis- 
position by  an  unmistakable  demonstration.  In  great 
numbers  they  accompanied  their  Rabbis  into  the  Catholic 
churches,  just  as  the  Christians  in  great  numbers  went  into 
the  synagogues  to  sing  the  same  hymn. 

But  the  feeling  of  unity  was  already  strong  in  Poland's 
greatest  poet,  Mickiewicz  ;  his  work.  Pan  Tadeusz  (of  1834), 
which  has  become  the  Polish  national  epic,  ends  with  the 
playing  of  Poland's  celebrated  national  song  for  Dom- 
browski  and  his  soldiers  by  a  Jew.  "The  great  Master," 
as  the  poem  calls  him,  by  his  cymbal  music  alone,  in  great 
enthusiasm,  evokes  the  whole  history  of  Poland  from  1791 
for  his  audience.  The  impetuous  polonaise  of  May  3rd 
is  the  starting  point,  then  follows  the  false  chord,  the 
sound  of  the  traitor-note,  which  calls  to  mind  Targovice, 
then  march,  attack,  battle,  storming  and  shot,  groans  of 
the  children,  wailings  of  the  mothers ;  the  blood-bath 
of  Praga  rises  before  the  eyes  dim  with  tears.  Then 
the  key  changes  to  the  wailing  melody  of  the  old  popular 


44  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

ballads,  to  the  story  of  the  exiled  warrior,  who  wanders 
through  woods  and  many  a  time  is  ready  to  perish  in  agony 
and  starvation,  until  at  last  he  sinks  down  at  the  feet  of  his 
faithful  little  horse,  which  digs  his  grave  with  its  hoof. 
Closely  gathered  about  the  master,  the  soldiers  listen  to  the 
well-known  melody  and  recall  the  better  days  when  they 
sang  this  ballad  at  the  grave  of  their  fatherland. 

"  They  raised  their  heads,  for  how  entirely  different, 
how  much  lighter  it  sounded  now — louder,  in  another 
time,  carrying  another  message.  And  again  the  master  let 
his  glance  glide  over  the  strings,  folding  his  hands  together, 
and  struck  a  blow  with  both  staves,  so  fully,  so  powerfully, 
that  the  strings  resounded  like  a  brazen  trumpet,  and  this 
renowned  melody  born  of  the  holiest  hope,  this  triumphal 
march  flew  towards  heaven :  '  It  is  not  yet  all  over  with 
Poland  !  not  so  long  as  we  live  1  Up,  Dombrowski  I  To 
Poland ! '  and  all  clapped  their  hands,  and  '  Up,  Dombrowski ! ' 
pealed  through  the  hall.  And  as  if  he  himself  were  startled 
at  the  effect,  the  master  trembled.  .  .  ." 

And  covering  his  face,  while  a  torrent  of  tears  burst 
out  through  his  fingers,  he  says  to  Dombrowski :  "  Yes, 
General,  thou  art  he,  whom  the  singer's  mouth  has  heralded," 
and  the  poet  adds:  "Thus  he  spoke,  the  brave  Jew,  he 
loved  his  native  country  as  a  Pole." 

Yet  though  there  is  now  no  religious  division  in  Russian 
Poland,  of  late  years  a  party  division  of  another  kind  has 
arisen — namely,  that  between  the  youth  with  positive  ten- 
dencies, who  are  disposed  to  make  the  liberation  of  the 
intellect  the  highest  aim,  and  the  Catholic  patriots,  or  those 
working  with  them. 

The  Catholic  religion  has  long  seemed  to  be  indissolubly 
bound  up  in  the  national  cause.  Without  the  influence  of 
the  Catholic  clergy  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  keep 
the  larger  part  of  the  population,  which  is  excluded  from 
the  higher  culture,  firmly  united  as  a  nationality.  Now  this 
difficulty  has  arisen,  that  those  possessing  the  highest  culture 
no  longer  believe  in  the  Catholic  faith,  and  that  the  leaders 
of  youth  believe  the  only  possibility  for  intellectual  advance 
to  lie  in  opposing  modern  views  of  life  to  the  tradition  of 


CULTURE  IN  ITS  RELATION  TO  CATHOLICISM     45 

the  past.  They  have  asked  themselves  with  anxiety  if 
Polish  culture,  by  maintaining  its  relations  with  Catholicism, 
as,  for  instance,  do  the  great  poets  of  the  romantic  school, 
Mickiewicz  and  Krasinski,  will  not  come  to  be  antiquated  and 
outstripped  in  the  general  work  of  Europe,  and  some  eminent 
men,  among  them  first  and  foremost  Svientochovski,  have 
felt  obliged  to  express  themselves  on  the  religious  question 
in  a  manner  which  has  wounded  some,  and  caused  anxiety 
to  more.  Recently  so  distinguished  an  author  as  Sienkiewicz, 
who  commenced  his  career  as  a  radical,  and  whose  opinions 
were  long  radical,  has  been  seen  from  prudential  reasons  to 
ally  himself  with  the  conservative  party.  It  is  much  to  be 
regretted,  however,  that  by  receiving  a  considerable  annual 
sum  for  holding  a  sinecure  as  nominal  editor  of  a  clerical 
newspaper,  he  has  complicated  his  situation  and  lost  a  great 
part  of  his  prestige. 

There  is  a  dilemma  here,  which  troubles  the  Polish  intelli- 
gence more  than  anything  else.  Many  of  the  best  people 
dare  not  say  what  they  think,  lest  they  should  injure  the 
cause,  which  is  to  them  the  holiest,  or  rather  the  only  holy 
cause :  the  cause  of  Poland.  Other  eminent  men  are  led  to 
the  reflection,  which  under  common  conditions  would  be 
unquestionable,  but  which  in  this  case  does  not  suffice,  that 
there  are  ideas  which  have  greater  weight  and  importance 
than  the  idea  of  nationality.  The  question  becomes  practically 
a  question  of  expedience,  toleration,  and  tact. 

My  purely  personal  relation  to  the  question  was  this  : 
those  on  the  progressive  side  in  Warsaw  were  inclined  to 
appropriate  me,  while  isolated  men,  who  although  entirely 
liberal,  desired  for  political  reasons  to  avoid  a  breach  between 
the  patriots  and  the  "  Young  Poland  "  party,  earnestly  desired 
my  presence  in  Warsaw,  because  they  thought  it  possible 
that  a  foreigner,  who  had  friends  in  both  camps,  might  effect 
a  reconciliation.  They  sought,  therefore,  to  make  use  of  my 
stay  in  Warsaw  to  bring  this  about,  and  it  was  said  to  me  on 
a  certain  occasion  that,  that  evening  for  the  first  time  in  fifteen 
years,  representatives  of  the  different  parties  were  assembled  in 
the  same  room.  What  I  personally  saw  in  Warsaw  could  but 
give  me  a  lofty  idea  of  the  harmony  of  the  Poles  as  a  people ; 


46  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

the  attitude  of  the  conservative  party  especially  surprised 
me.  More  than  one  Catholic  priest  received  me  heartily, 
and  the  greatest  festivity  to  which  I  was  invited  during  my 
visit  in  Warsaw  was  given  by  the  leader  of  the  conservative 
party,  the  owner  of  the  newspaper  Slovo  {The  Word),  Count 
Przezdziecki.  (He  is  the  son  of  the  man  who  published 
the  complete  works  of  the  Polish  historian,  Johanes  Dlugosz, 
in  fourteen  large  quarto  volumes,  at  great  personal  expense, 
and  a  near  relative  of  the  Countess  Przezdziecka,  who  is 
Merimee's  "  Second  Unknown  "  {^Autre  Inconnue).) 

Although,  according  to  my  idea,  Polish  culture  at  present 
must  thus  be  limited  to  an  extremely  prudent  and  wary 
evolution,  it  is  evident  that  the  year  1863  marks  an  epoch 
in  the  intellectual  life  of  Poland.  The  follies  and  horrors  of 
this  year,  the  frantic  chaotic  rebellion,  with  its  tragic  result, 
has  made  the  nation  sober.  Too  sober,  it  may  seem  to 
some,  for  while  before  1863  it  was  the  wont  of  the  Poles 
to  see  all  merits  united  in  their  own  people,  since  that  time  it 
has  become  the  fashion  to  speak  sorrowfully  and  depreciat- 
ingly of  Poland.  But  it  is  a  great  gain  in  any  event  to  have 
cast  off  the  sickly  self-worship  which  prevailed  in  the  thirties, 
at  the  time  when  the  two  great  opponents,  Mickiewicz  and 
Slowacki,  simultaneously  adopted  the  visionary  dreams  of  the 
mystic  Towianski,  who  regarded  the  Poles  as  the  Messianic 
race,  suffering  for  the  sins  of  mankind,  and  by  suffering, 
working  out  the  salvation  of  humanity.  They  have  learned 
to  look  the  stern  reality  in  the  face,  and  the  hopes  they 
cherish — and  though  certainly  not  sanguine,  they  are  by  no 
means  without  hope  for  the  future — are  not  founded  on 
dreams  and  fantasies. 

Finally,  the  drastic  foreign  rule  since  1863  has  produced 
an  intellectual  condition  which,  however  unhappy  it  may  be, 
may  in  certain  ways  be  called  the  finest  and  best  possible 
to  a  nation,  a  condition  which  calls  to  mind  that  of  primitive 
Christendom  under  the  oppression  of  Rome,  a  conception  of 
the  world,  pessimistic  in  many  points,  but  not  on  that  account 
less  true. 

Perhaps  after  all  there  is  no  condition  more  elevating  for 
a  race  than  one  in  which  no  distinguished  man  ever  has  any 


TENACITY    OF    THE    NATIONAL    IDEA         47 

external  distinction,  title,  or  decoration,  and  where  the  official 
tinsel  of  honour  is  regarded  as  a  disgrace,  while  on  the  other 
hand  the  official  garb  of  disgrace,  the  political  prison  blouse, 
is  regarded  as  honourable. 

Every  child  who  daily  goes  past  Paskiewicz's  monument, 
who  sees  the  names  of  traitors  encircled  by  garlands  on  the 
obelisk,  is  from  a  tender  age  familiar  with  the  thought  that 
those  whom  the  authorities  honour  are  not  as  a  rule  the 
best  men,  and  that  those  whom  they  persecute  are  not  as  a 
rule  the  worst. 

That  which  is  the  pith,  the  true  pith  of  Christian  teach- 
ing, a  right  estimate  of  the  honours  of  this  world,  the 
ignominy  of  this  world,  and  the  justice  of  this  world,  of  real 
greatness  and  real  baseness — this  estimate,  every  one  here, 
even  the  least  gifted,  has  accepted.  What  a  school  for 
life  !  Poland  is  the  only  country,  I  believe,  where  primitive 
Christianity  still  exists  as  a  power  in  society,  and  that  equally 
for  those  who  are  Christians  and  for  those  who  are  not. 

The  name  of  Poland  is  not  found  on  the  map  of  Europe. 
The  people  of  Poland  are  not  reckoned  among  the  peoples 
of    Europe.     The    freedom    and    welfare    of    its    sons    and  i 
daughters  are  in  the  power  of  foreign  rulers.     Its  language 
is  persecuted  and  suppressed. 

This  people  has  not  a  single  friend  among  the  mighty  of 
the  earth  ;  on  the  other  hand  it  has  active,  extremely  active 
and  effectual  enemies,  and  its  misfortune  is  that  its  enemies 
are  the  most  absolutely  powerful  men  in  the  w^orld. 

On  the  other  hand  Poland  has,  I  believe,  among  all  the 
nations  of  the  world  the  best  and  the  most  humane  of  their  ' 
sons  for  her  friends. 

Poland  presents  the  spectacle  of  a  nation  which  is  not 
only  condemned  to  death,  but  which,  as  Cherbuliez  has  said, 
has  been  buried  alive,  and  yet  which  continually  raises  the  » 
lid  of  its  coffin,  and  shows  that  its  vital  power  is  still  far 
from  exhausted. 

We  meet  here  a  people  in  whom  every  nerve  is  strained, 
because  day  in  and  day  out  they  fight  for  their  existence, 
instead  of  enjoying  it  like  other  races.  We  see  here  a  people 
who  are  entirely  absorbed  in  their  national  cause,  and  yet 


48  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

this  national  cause  is  nothing  but  the  universal  cause,  the 
cause  of  humanity. 

We  love  Poland,  therefore,  not  as  we  love  Germany  or 
France  or  England,  but  as  we  love  freedom.  For  what 
is  it  to  love  Poland  but  to  love  freedom,  to  have  a  deep 
sympathy  with  misfortune,  and  to  admire  courage  and 
enthusiasm  ? 

Poland  is  a  symbol — a  symbol  of  all  which  the  best 
of  the  human  race  have  loved,  and  for  which  they  have 
fought.  In  Poland  everything  is  concentrated,  all  that  is 
most  hateful  and  despicable,  all  that  is  most  lovable  and 
most  brilliant ;  here  the  contrasts  of  human  life  are  found  in 
bold  relief ;  here  the  cosmos  is  concentrated  as  in  an  essence. 

Everywhere  in  Europe  where  there  has  been  any  fighting 
for  freedom  in  this  century,  the  Poles  have  taken  part  in  it, 
on  all  battlefields,  on  all  the  barricades.  They  have  some- 
times been  mistaken  in  their  views  of  the  enterprises  to  which 
they  lent  their  arms  ;  but  they  believed  that  they  were  fight- 
ing for  the  good  of  humanity ;  they  regarded  themselves 
as  the  bodyguard  of  freedom,  and  still  look  on  every  one 
who  fights  for  freedom  as  a  brother. 

But  conversely,  it  may  also  be  said  that  everywhere  in 
Europe  where  there  is  any  fighting  for  freedom,  there  is 
fighting  for  Poland.  The  future  fate  of  Polaind  is  wholly 
dependent  on  that  of  Europe  ;  for  if  the  idea  of  the  right 
of  the  people  to  independence,  and  the  right  of  every  nation 
to  full  political  freedom  continually  gains  ground  in  the 
world,  then  the  hour  is  drawing  near  when  the  resurrection 
of  Poland  shall  be  something  more  than  a  hope. 


SECOND    IMPRESSION 

1886 


D 


THE    EXPULSION    OF    THE    POLES 
BY    PRUSSIA 

The  two  greatest  military  powers  of  the  world,  Germany  and 
Russia,  which  are  on  bad  terms  with  each  other,  but  neither  of 
which  represents  political  freedom,  the  right  of  the  nation  and 
of  the  individual  to  self-government,  have  at  present  one  task 
and  object  in  common  ;  with  all  the  means  at  their  command 
they  wage  a  war  of  extermination  against  a  nationality  of 
from  14,000,000  to  16,000,000  people,  which  is  tied  and 
bound,  oppressed  and  gagged  as  no  other  nationality  in 
Europe  is,  but  which  nevertheless  is  treated  by  its  rulers  as 
if  it  overflowed  or  crushed  out  the  elements  which  govern  it, 
and  we  see  it  incessantly  described  as  a  danger  or  a  threat. 

The  partition  of  the  Polish  kingdom  is  nearly  a  hundred 
years  old.  But  it  will  not  allow  the  three  powers  that 
accomplished  it  to  be  at  peace.  Even  now  it  demands 
great  efforts  to  establish  it  as  just  and  right.  It  is  not  enough 
that  they  have  caused  the  history  of  the  world  to  be  written 
as  if  all  the  blame  were  on  the  side  oi  this  old  Poland. 
It  is  not  enough  that  what  among  other  people  is  counted 
as  virtue  or  duty — love  of  one's  country,  its  memories 
and  language,  hatred  for  its  enemies  and  detractors — is 
branded  and  punished  when  professed  by  a  Pole.  It  is  not 
enough  that  no  Polish  deputy  in  the  German  or  Galician 
parliament  can  escape  swearing  and  protesting  his  faithful 
allegiance  to  the  foreign  power  that  shared  in  the  partition,  or 
that  the  youth  of  Poland  are  registered  as  soldiers  in  the 
German,  Austrian,  and  Russian  armies,  are  put  into  regiments 
where  only  a  foreign  language  is  spoken,  and  have  to  fight 
for   foreign  interests  ;    more  recently   Russia  and    Germany 


52  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

have    simultaneously  initiated  a  persecution    of    the    Polish 
nationality,  which  comes  very  near  to  abuse. 

At  the  beginning  of  this  year,  after  a  few  days'  warning. 
Prince  Bismarck  drove  out  of  Prussia  fifty  thousand  Poles, 
men,  women,  and  children,  helpless  creatures  who  had  to 
seek  a  shelter  or  perish.  His  political  motive  seems  to  be 
twofold.  He  is  afraid  of  the  Polonicising  of  the  German- 
speaking  parts  of  the  country  ;  for  it  appears  that  the  Polish 
language,  in  spite  of  everything  that  is  done  to  root  it  out, 
continually  gains  ground.  And  he  would  like  to  secure  the 
best  possible  conditions  in  a  forthcoming  war,  and  have  as 
few  hostile  elements  in  the  country  as  he  can.  He  is 
not  only  driving  out  of  Prussia  all  foreign  Poles,  even  if  they 
have  long  been  settled  there — and  this  so  rigorously,  that  on 
the  ist  of  February  a  woman  ninety-one  years  old  arrived  in 
Warsaw,  who  was  exiled  from  Posen  as  dangerous  to  the 
State — but  he  is  also  proposing  measures  that  will  make  the 
ownership  of  the  soil  as  burdensome  as  possible  to  the 
Prussian  Poles  who  reside  in  Posen  and  possess  land  there. 
He  wishes  to  buy  out  the  Poles  from  their  old  land,  and 
has  asked  for  300,000,000  marks  towards  colonisation,  just 
as  if  some  region  either  uninhabited  or  inhabited  by  savages 
were  in  question.  And  it  is  not  even  to  be  permitted  to 
every  German  to  buy  Polish  land  unconditionally  ;  no  one 
who  has  married  a  Polish  woman  can  get  permission  ;  for 
experience  teaches,  says  Bismarck,  that  such  a  wife  makes 
her  husband  a  Polish  patriot  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye.  In 
future  no  Prussian  Pole  is  to  be  allowed  to  settle  in  Posen, 
unless  he  has  married  a  German  wife  ;  for  only  in  this  event 
can  there  be  any  hope  of  Germanising  him  and  his  children. 


I 

THE  POLISH   WOMEN 

It  thus  appears  that  Bismarck  regards  the  Polish  women 
as  even  more  dangerous  to  the  unity  and  safety  of  the 
German  empire  than  the  men.  He  has  unintentionally  borne 
testimony  to  their  pride  and  worth.  And  they  deserve  it,  for 
in  all  that  relates  to  the  contest  for  the  preservation  of  the 
national  spirit,  they  are  the  marrow  of  the  land. 

The  women  here  referred  to  belong  to  the  aristocracy. 
Among  the  common  people  there  is  only  a  religious  national 
consciousness,  and  there  is  no  middle  class  as  in  the  Germanic 
and  Latin  countries. 

Broadly  speaking,  we  may  say  of  these  women  of  the 
higher  and  lower  aristocracy  that  their  qualities,  virtues,  and 
vices  have  nothing  bourgeois  about  them.  They  are  not 
domesticated,  they  are  not  small-minded.  The  best  of  them 
have  a  pride,  whjch  exalted  and  exceptional  as  it  is,  springs 
from  their  feeling  of  the  strength  and  purity  of  the  spiritual 
life.  They  are  women  who  are  born  to  rule,  and  who  even 
in  narrow  and  straitened  circumstances  preserve  the  grand 
self-esteem  which  runs  in  their  blood.  In  women  of  this 
type  the  emotional  life  is  wholly  absorbed  in  the  national 
cause.  Several  among  them,  indeed,  are  zealous  children  of 
the  Catholic  Church,  but  for  the  larger  number  and  the  more 
intelligent,  Catholicism  is  precious  only  as  the  palladium  of 
the  nationality.  Cherbuliez's  characterisation  of  the  Polish 
women  as  <'  Punch  mixed  with  holy  water  "  is  now  a  trifle 
antiquated. 

The  Polish  women  are  renowned  for  beauty,  and  deserve 
their  reputation.  It  is  a  kind  of  dogma  in  Poland  that 
the  real  Polish  woman  is  blonde  ;  it  is  considered  most 
elegant  to  be  so  ;  still,  although  some  women  are  to  be  found 


54  IMPRESSIONS    OV    POLAND 

who  not  only  approach  the  Swedes  and  Norwegians  in  the 
golden  yellow  of  their  hair,  but  who  surpass  any  Northerner 
in  the  glistening  whiteness  of  their  skins,  the  dogma  does 
not  hold  true.  Brunettes  are  everywhere  more  numerous, 
and  the  colour  of  the  hair  of  the  larger  number  is  a  dark 
brown. 

The  perfect  form  of  the  hands  and  the  smallness  of  the 
feet  are  remarkable  in  the  Polish  women.  They  even  place 
the  beauty  of  the  hands  above  all  other  perfections.  "  I 
regard  my  hands,  but  not  my  face,"  said  one,  and  one  of 
them  who  otherwise  thinks  little  about  her  appearance  and  is 
too  cultivated  to  be  vain,  when  her  hands  were  frost-bitten  in 
Paris,  caused  the  most  celebrated  physician  in  the  city  to  be 
sent  for.  Polish  ladies  maintain  that  when  they  visit  the 
shoemakers'  shops  in  Vienna  and  show  their  small  feet  with 
high  insteps,  the  shoemakers  exclaim  :  "  Das  kennen  wir,  das 
sind  polnische  Fiisse  ! "  (We  know  that  those  are  Polish 
feet.)  It  is  also  said  in  Warsaw  that  in  the  Vienna  shoe-shops 
they  have  a  separate  case  of  boots  and  shoes  for  these  feet, 
and  that  its  contents  are  widely  different  from  that  of  the 
case  designed  for  English  ladies. 

The  prevailing  view  here,  as  in  all  other  nationalities 
known  to  me,  is,  that  the  typical  national  woman  lives  for  her 
home  and  children — perhaps  more  for  the  children  than  the 
husband,  and  that  she  rarely  leads  a  life  of  love.  Matrimony 
is  not  so  paraded  as  in  Germany,  and  is  not  so  often  the 
occasion  of  catastrophes  as  in  France.  The  Polish  women 
have  hot  heads,  but  their  senses  are  under  control. 

Now  and  then  a  great  irregularity  happens  :  a  lady  leaves 
her  husband  and  lives  with  her  lover  ;  a  young  girl  marries 
her  father's  valet,  and  the  like.  They  are  the  rare  exceptions. 
When  you  meet  an  accomplished  coquette  in  society,  she  is 
almost  always  of  foreign  descent.  On  the  other  hand,  great 
examples  of  maternal  sacrifice  are  by  no  means  rare. 
Countess  Rosa  K.,  called  ihe  first  lady  in  Poland  on  account 
of  her  family  connections  and  fortune,  has  for  years  lived 
entirely  alone  in  an  unimportant  mountain  town  in  the 
Carpathian  mountains,  for  the  health  of  her  feeble  little 
son. 


THE    FEMININE    PROPAGANDA  55 

There  are  still  found  in  Poland  remnants  of  that  abstract 
worship  of  women,  which,  as  long  as  the  kingdom  of  Poland 
endured,  found  expression  in  the  following  description  of  the 
Madonna  :  Virgo  Maria  Regina  Polonice.  Although  or  perhaps 
because  the  economic  emancipation  of  women  has  not  been 
even  mooted  so  far,  gallantry  towards  the  female  sex  is  de 
rigueur.  Men  always  rise  in  a  tramway  to  give  a  lady  a  seat. 
And  in  any  public  place  whatever,  even  at  the  most  elegant 
receptions  or  balls,  a  chair  is  taken  away  from  under  one  with 
the  words,  *'  For  a  lady." 

In  the  upper  ranks  of  society  the  life  of  the  women  at 
first  sight  seems  to  be  purely  idle.  But  in  summer  in  the 
country,  where  patriarchal  relations  to  a  great  extent  still  pre- 
vail, the  mistiess  of  the  estate  has  much  to  do,  and  in  Warsaw 
it  is  only  apparently  that  she  lives  a  life  of  mere  amusement. 

The  lady  of  position  rises  between  eleven  and  twelve 
o'clock  in  the  forenoon,  and  goes  to  bed  at  four  o'clock  in 
the  morning ;  she  drives  from  one  visit  to  another  and  from 
one  party  to  another.  But  in  reality  she  labours  every  day 
for  public  and  national  interests.  Everything,  the  most  in- 
nocent enterprises,  the  founding  of  a  library,  a  hospital,  a 
sewing  school,  no  matter  what  it  is,  is  made  to  strengthen 
the  Polish  cause.  Four  ladies  do  not  meet  on  a  charity 
committee  without  promoting  the  national  cause  under  its 
cover. 

It  is  forbidden  to  teach  girls  Polish  in  a  school,  but  it  is 
allowed  to  teach  them  to  sew.  They  draw  corsets  on  the 
slate  in  case  the  gendarmes  should  come  ;  they  have  sewing 
materials  on  the  table,  and  books  under  it. 

Several  ladies,  eminent  for  their  talents,  have  attempted 
to  do  more  ;  thus  the  renowned  authoress,  Elise  Orzeszkowa, 
even  established  a  printing  press  to  be  carried  on  with  a  view 
to  the  education  of  the  people.  This  enterprise  came  to  an 
end  when  the  government  prohibited  it,  closed  the  printing 
office,  and  confined  Madam  Orzeszkowa  for  several  years  at 
Grodno.  Her  romances,  which  have  attracted  much  atten- 
tion— Meir  Ezofowicz  is  especially  worth  reading — disclose 
a  talent  which  is  akin  to  that  of  George  Sand  ;  they  are 
written   with    a   melancholy   patriotism   inspired   by   an   en- 


56  IMPRESSIONS    OV    POLAND 

thusiastic  faith  in  freedom  ;  her  minor  novels  have  a 
keener  stamp  of  realism,  and  more  decided  artistic  form, 
but  the  same  patriotic,  didactic  tendency.  A  younger 
poetess,  who  has  attained  a  very  high  rank  in  lyric  poetry — 
Marja  Konopnicka — while  contending  with  the  most  difficult 
and  oppressive  conditions  of  life,  has  developed  into  the 
poetic  representative  of  a  life  of  freedom  of  thought  and 
emotion  which  is  still  exceptional  in  Poland.  The  chord  of 
the  love  of  country  also  vibrates  strongly  in  her  poetry,  as, 
for  instance,  in  her  ode  to  Matejko  on  the  painting,  The  Battle 
at  Grtinwald. 

The  opposition  between  Poland  and  Russia  is  never  out 
of  the  mind  of  the  women.  This  is  constantly  noticeable 
in  daily  life.  A  young  girl  was  deserted  by  her  lover.  It 
was  always  cited  as  a  detail  which  made  the  perfidy  and 
cruelty  more  bitter,  that  it  was  for  the  sake  of  a  Russian 
dancer  he  left  her.  A  young  girl,  not  twenty  years  old, 
rebuked  a  group  of  half-grown  Polish  schoolboys  in  the 
Saxon  Park  because  they  were  speaking  Russian  to  each 
other.  Such  little  traits  teach  every  one  who  resides  for  any 
time  in  Russian  Poland  that  it  is  the  women  who  keep  the 
national  passion  at  white  heat. 

In  other  respects,  like  the  women  of  other  countries, 
of  course  they  are  of  all  sorts  ;  gentle  and  quiet,  or  sus- 
piciously sharp-sighted,  virginal  and  combative,  or  with  erotic 
tendencies,  or  vain,  theatrical  dispositions.  There  are  some 
who,  genuine  Slavs,  are  wholly  absorbed  in  intellectual 
enthusiasms,  and  there  are  individual  commanding  natures, 
typically  Polish,  with  the  determination  and  firmness  of  an 
exceptional  man.  There  was  one,  whom  her  father,  a  general 
of  artillery,  who  wished  to  cure  his  child  of  fear,  had  compelled 
from  the  time  she  was  ten  years  old  to  stand  at  the  side 
of  the  cannon  when  they  were  fired,  and  who  now,  at  the 
age  of  twenty,  was  characterised  as  a  woman  who  could 
stand  fire. 

Often  common  patriotic  interests  unite  them  to  the  men  ; 
sometimes  they  choose  a  man  instinctively  for  the  reason 
that  he  falls  less  short  than  others  of  their  patriotic  ideal. 
On  the  whole  it  may  be  said  that  they  think  rather  lightly 


REPRESENTATIVE    POLISH    WOMEN  57 

of  men,  and  know  their  faults  thoroughly.  Courage  in  a 
man  is  not  enough  for  them.  "  If  they  could  not  even 
fight,  they  ought  to  be  buried,"  was  the  retort  made — in 
answer  to  a  speech  which  exalted  this  virtue  in  men — 
by  a  young  girl  of  much  character.  As  a  rule  it  may 
be  said  of  these  women,  that  they  demand  much  and  give 
much  in  return. 


II 

THE   MEN— POLISH   IDEALS,  VIRTUES   AND  VICES 

The  men  are  well-grown,  often  thin  ;  most  frequently  with 
clear-cut  faces  and  long,  thick,  pendant  moustaches.  This 
type  may  be  traced  from  peasant  to  aristocrat.  A  fre- 
quent variation  is  the  heavy,  childishly  frank  country  noble, 
who  greets  his  friends  at  meeting  and  parting  with  a 
kiss,  and  has  his  heart  on  his  lips,  but  who,  nevertheless, 
has  a  manly  bearing  and  much  natural  dignity  ;  this  is  the 
type  which  Mickiewicz  has  immortalised  in  several  instances 
in  Pan  Tadeusz. 

Political  qualities  are  universally  wanting.  While  the 
German  generally  feels  as  if  he  had  found  his  destiny 
when  he  is  harnessed  to  the  chariot  of  state,  even  if  he 
,  thereby  loses  some  of  the  best  of  his  nature,  the  Pole  is 
without  any  talent  as  a  politician.  The  economic  as  well 
as  the  political  sense  is  but  slightly  developed  in  Russian 
Poland. 

Therefore  there  was  in  the  old  kingdom  of  Poland 
(just  as  in  Greece)  a  high  civilisation  without  the  material 
foundation  which  could  secure  its  continuance,  and  on  that 
account  a  development  of  personal  freedom  took  place  here 
(as  in  Judaea)  at  the  expense  of  the  power  of  the  kingdom 
in  its  relation  to  foreign  countries. 
^  There  are  two  Polish  national  songs,  which  together  give 

I         a  complete  picture  of  the  national  character  of  the  Poles  :  one 
I         is  Wibicki's  Jeszcze  Polska  of   1797,  a  poem  famous  through- 
out the  world  as  '<  Poland  is  not  yet  lost ; "    the  other  is 
/        Ujejski's  Zdynten  Pozarow  of  1846,  written  after  the  Galician 
massacres.     The  Metternich  Government,  which  got  the  idea 
of  using  the  peasants   against  their  masters  from  Archduke 

Ferdinand,  persuaded  the  peasantry  in  Galicia  that  the  em- 

58 


POLISH    NATIONAL    SONGS  .       59 

peror  had  granted  them  freedom  from  military  service  and 
had  given  them  the  soil  for  partition,  but  that  the  nobility 
prevented  the  carrying  out  of  this  imperial  regulation.  When 
the  young  nobles  then  sought  to  win  over  the  peasants  to  a 
national  revolt,  the  fury  of  the  latter  turned  against  the 
Polish  nobility  ;  in  three  days  two  thousand  men,  women, 
and  children  of  noble  rank  were  exterminated,  some  being 
burned  alive,  others  flogged  to  death,  and  others  cut  to 
pieces. 

Ujejski's  song  is  the  expression  of  the  despair  of  the 
younger  race  at  seeing  the  hopes  of  Poland  thus  brought  to 
naught  by  the  Poles  themselves,  as  Wibicki's  song  is  the 
expression  of  the  bright  hopes  of  the  old  race,  even  after  the 
blow  of  the  third  partition  had  fallen.  The  first  is  a  hymn 
which  resembles  a  psalm,  the  second  a  march  which  ap- 
proaches a  mazurka. 

The  two  sides  of  the  character  of  the  people,  the  whole 
Polish  spirit,  are  reflected  herein.  In  Ujejski's  hymn  there 
is  the  lofty,  burning  earnestness,  the  love  of  country  as  a 
religion  :  "  Our  lamentation  mounts  up  to  Thee,  O  Lord, 
with  the  smoke  of  fire  and  the  steam  of  our  brother's  blood!" 
Jeszcze  Polska,  which  is  generally  believed  to  be  pathetic, 
because  it  has  played  the  same  part  in  the  national  life  of 
Poland  as  the  Marseillaise  in  that  of  France,  is  an  extremely 
careless,  merry  song,  the  ballad  of  heroic  thoughtlessness. 
Its  argument  is :  No  fear.  Poland  endures  still.  March, 
march,  Dombrowski !     It  is  joy  to  live,  to  sing,  to  fight. 

The  virtue  which  has  gradually  made  its  way  in  Europe 
in  modern  times  as  the  chief  civic  virtue  is  that  of  working, 
and  loving  work  for  its  own  sake.  The  conception  on  which 
it  is  based  is  very  rare  in  Poland.  Its  children  have  culti- 
vated the  earth  and  cultivated  their  minds  for  centuries,  but 
they  have  at  the  same  time  obstinately  regarded  work  merely 
for  money  as  a  low,  degrading  thing.  They  have  nourished 
the  inherited  aristocratic  contempt  for  the  merchant  and  the 
manufacturer,  to  say  nothing  of  the  shopkeeper  and  the 
mechanic.  They  have  collected  great  fortunes,  but  they 
have  spent  them.  Money  was  a  means  ;  very  seldom  an  end  : 
work  a  semi-disgraceful  resource  ;  never  its  own  reward. 


6o  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

They  wished  to  enjoy  life,  not  earn  bread,  and  above  all, 
to  live  lavishly  and  carelessly. 

In  this  country  the  useful  has  always  been  given  the 
second  place,  often  the  third. 

Not  that  their  highest  interest  lay  in  an  ideal  reproduction 
of  life,  as  did  that  of  Italy  during  the  Renaissance,  when  it 
was  absorbed  by  its  eternal  art.  No  ;  the  end  here  was  to 
make  life  itself  a  festival  which  a  great  lord,  a  really  grand 
seigneur,  gave  to  other  gentlemen,  great  and  small,  and  their 
ladies. 

Hospitality  is  a  more  essential  feature  in  Polish  life  than 
in  that  of  any  other  country.  Elsewhere  people  are  hospitable 
only  when  they  are  bored  :  here  they  are  hospitable  without 
being  bored ;  to  shrink  from  showing  hospitality  here  is 
accounted  snobbery  ;  to  shrink  from  accepting  hospitality, 
even  on  a  grand  scale,  is  also  snobbery,  for  it  shows  that  you 
value  it  in  money. 

In  ancient  Poland  even  war  was  festive.  In  war  the 
Polish  knights  wore  large  wings  on  their  cuirasses,  real  ostrich 
wings  on  their  saddles,  and,  as  a  matter  of  course,  plumes 
in  rich  variety. 

And  how  beautiful  and  rich  was  the  Polish  costume  in 
peace !  It  can  scarcely  be  maintained  that  their  mode  of 
dress  was  ever  practical,  but  what  glittering  luxury  it  dis- 
played !  What  wonderful  splendour  in  sashes,  with  their 
gold  and  silver  embroidery,  which  were  wound  many 
times  about  the  waist  !  What  a  delicate  and  superior  sense 
of  beauty  in  their  silk  embroideries !  The  man  who  wore 
such  a  sash  about  his  waist  had  a  constant  impression  of 
happiness,  fulness  of  life,  prosperity.  This  was  not  tinsel, 
like  so  much  of  the  French  finery  of  those  days,  but  solid 
and  enduring  splendour. 

The  individual  mighty  man  of  this  people  did  not  live  for 
himself  alone,  was  not  reserved,  and  the  whole  race  was  like 
him.  We  have  only  to  consider  two  such  incidents  as  these : 
that  Poland  opened  its  doors  to  the  Jews  in  the  Middle  Ages, 
and  that  John  Sobieski  liberated  Vienna  from  the  Turks  ;  two 
rare  incidents  in  the  history  of  Europe  of  religious  liberality 
and  political  chivalry. 


THE    ARISTOCRATIC    IDEAL  6i 

But  ideals,  disinterested  ideals,  are  a  luxury,  which  bring 
their  own  punishment  on  a  people  almost  as  national  vices 
do.  The  nations  which  attain  to  new  religious  ideals  in  the 
emotional  life,  or  in  their  contemplative  life  raise  themselves 
to  new  heights,  or  which  follow  aristocratic  ideals  in  their 
conduct,  are  always  weak  as  makers  of  states  ;  frequently  they 
have  been  compelled  to  pay  for  more  exalted  qualities  by  the 
loss  of  their  political  existence,  but  a  race  like  the  Poles  is 
placed  in  a  more  difficult  position  than  ever  in  a  period  so 
uniformly  civic  and  martial  as  our  own. 

Especially  does  the  old-time  aristocratic  contempt  for 
work  prove  fatal.  No  one  works  who  does  not  need  to, 
and  many  who  should,  do  not.  Society  in  Warsaw  is  per- 
haps more  exclusive  than  anywhere  else.  The  prejudice 
against  work  is  impressed  upon  the  young  by  the  old.  A 
distinguished  old  lady  made  this  significant  remark :  "  What 
company  they  invited  me  to  meet !  It  was  made  up  of 
workmen,  advocates  whom  we  pay,  manufacturers  who  sell 
goods,  doctors,  into  whose  hands  three  rubles  are  slipped 
for  a  visit  1 "  The  wife  of  Don  Ranudo  would  not  speak 
otherwise. 

But  how  does  a  whole  class  get  money  in  our  time  with- 
out work  ?  some  one  will  ask.  That  is  exactly  the  crux ; 
the  money  of  the  Polish  aristocracy  is  coming  to  an  end  ; 
those  who  still  have  land  are  frequently  obliged  to  live  wholly 
on  their  estates. 

But  we  must  not  believe  that  any  one  troubles  himself 
much  about  this.  A  Polish  proverb  runs:  "I  suppose  it  J 
will  settle  itself,"  a  saying  characteristic  of  the  land  of  dis- 
order. A  poor  paymaster,  or  one  who  lives  on  credit,  is 
judged  less  severely  here  than  anywhere.  About  families  who 
are  in  debt  to  everybody  it  is  said  indulgently :  "  They  were 
forced  to  run  into  debt."  They  are  not  despised  on  that 
account,  hardly  even  when  extravagance  has  amounted  to 
folly,  as  when  the  head  of  a  family  gambles  and  loses  a  fortune 
in  play.  But  just  in  such  cases  the  bright  and  the  shady 
sides  of  the  Polish  character  are  seen  in  close  proximity. 

Of  two  brothers,  one  lost  200,000  rubles  in  play  and 
fled  from  the  country.     The  other  brother  assumed  the  debt, 


62  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

betook  himself  into  the  country,  lived  on  his  estate  like 
the  humblest  workman,  toiled  like  the  poorest  peasant,  and 
during  his  whole  life  was  paying  off  his  brother's  debt. 
Exaggerated,  heroic  self-sacrifice  flourishes  alongside  of  crazy, 
criminal  recklessness. 

The  propensity  to  vain  love  of  display,  to  extravagance, 
generates  in  low  and  bad  natures  that  disorder  in  all  money 
affairs  and  that  lust  for  wealth  which  determine  the  peculiar 
Polish  form  of  rascality,  that  which  makes  swindlers  in 
private  life  and  traitors  in  political  life.  Probably  in  every 
well-marked  nationality  rascality  in  money  matters  has  its 
peculiar,  favourite  form.  The  two  following  incidents  show 
it  in  its  Polish  extravagance. 

A  young  man  of  good  family  ran  in  debt  to  the  amount 
of  80,000  rubles,  borrowed  of  all  his  relatives,  impoverished 
them  at  last,  and  carried  it  so  far  that  he  borrowed  of  every 
one  he  met,  of  strange  ladies,  of  ladies  of  his  own  country 
whom  he  met  abroad  in  a  hotel ;  he  did  not  despise 
even  a  loan  of  five  or  ten  rubles.  Finally,  when  he  had 
not  a  copeck  left,  he  entered  a  monastery  in  Paris  as  a 
novice.  There  was  general  edification  in  his  family.  A 
short  time  after,  he  writes  home  to  a  pious  old  aunt,  ex- 
plains to  her  that  each  of  the  other  brothers  has  given 
the  monastery  a  sum  of  money,  and  begs  her  urgently  to 
advance  him  a  small  sum,  only  6000  rubles,  so  that  the 
other  monks  should  not  despise  him.  As  soon  as  he  receives 
the  money,  he  leaves  the  monastery,  travels  at  full  speed  to 
America,  spends  the  sum  to  the  last  penny,  returns  to 
France,  becomes  a  monk  again,  and  is  to-day  one  of  the 
most  popular  father-confessors  in  Paris. 

The  following  incident  from  real  life  shows  a  variation  on 
the  same  type,  and  illustrates  at  the  same  time  peculiarities  of 
Polish  character  of  an  entirely  different  kind. 

A  rich  lady  of  the  Polish  aristocracy,  very  austere  and 
demure  in  her  whole  conduct,  peacefully  and,  as  it  is  called, 
happily,  married,  who  had  a  worthy  husband,  a  beautiful 
home,  and  who  had  never  been  in  love  before,  seemed  to 
fall  under  a  spell  when  she  became  acquainted  with  a  certain 
elegant    young    nobleman.      She    abandoned    husband    and 


POLISH    DISINTERESTEDNESS  63 

children,  house  and  home,  and  allowed  herself  to  be  carried 
off  to  Paris  under  a  forged  passport.  The  young  man 
was  kind  to  her  for  about  a  week,  then  gradually  sold  all 
her  articles  of  value  and  ornaments,  locked  her  up  when 
he  went  out  to  amuse  himself  with  the  money,  and  soon 
left  her  so  completely  in  the  lurch  that,  stripped  of  every- 
thing, she  was  compelled  to  write  to  her  mother  for  aid. 
Her  mother  brought  her  home,  and  her  husband  declared 
that  he  was  willing  to  take  her  back  again  on  the  condition 
that  she  first  kneeled  down  at  the  threshold  of  the  house 
and  asked  pardon  of  all,  even  of  the  servants,  for  the  bad 
example  she  had  given.  She  submitted,  and  he  has  never 
since  said  a  reproachful  word  to  her,  or  recalled  the  past 
by  any  allusion. 

Just  as  the  rascality  in  money  matters  which  here  mani- 
fests itself  among  the  depraved  Poles  is  extreme,  so  is  the 
horror  there  is  of  any  intermingling  of  monetary  value  in 
an  expression  of  gratitude  to  superiors  or  equals  among  the 
better  class. 

An  exiled  Pole,  who  took  part  in  the  rebellion  of  1863, 
and  who  has  since  earned  his  bread  as  a  photographer  in 
Christiania,  sent  back  to  Charles  XV.  an  expensive  pin  which 
the  latter  had  sent  him  in  remembrance  of  an  interview,  and 
of  a  service  he  had  rendered.  Another  little  incident  that 
occurred  in  Warsaw  last  year  is  even  more  significant  and 
instructive.  A  young  landed  proprietor,  Mankowski,  won  the 
prize  offered  for  a  comedy  by  a  Polish  private  citizen.  He 
sent  a  diamond  ring  as  a  thank-offering  to  a  popular  actor, 
who  had  given  him  great  assistance  with  the  stage  effects, 
and  had  spent  a  good  deal  of  time  upon  this.  The  actor 
refused  to  accept  the  ring.  When  this  was  told  me,  and 
I  suggested  :  "  Can  he  give  his  time  without  compensation  ?  " 
I  received  the  answer :  "  He  does  not  need  much,  you  see : 
he  does  not  take  that  kind  of  pay  ;  but  also  he  himself  does 
not  pay.  People  know  that  he  has  not  much,  and  there- 
fore regard  it  as  mean  to  dun  him.  For  instance,  he  has 
now  occupied  a  fine  apartment  for  ten  years.  During  this 
time  he  has  never  paid  his  rent ;  but  when  rent  day 
comes,  he  pays  a  visit  to  the  landlord  in  the  morning ;  the 


64  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

latter  offers  him  a  cup  of  chocolate,  the  young  actor  makes 
an  excuse  for  his  negligence  with  regard  to  the  rent,  laments 
his  want  of  money,  and  there  is  no  more  said  about  the 
matter." — "  And  his  tailor,  his  shoemaker,  does  he  not  pay 
them  either  ?  " — "  No  ;  they  hope  that  he  will  some  day  make 
a  rich  match.  On  the  other  hand,  he  does  not  receive  an 
invitation  to  dinner  without  reciprocating,  and  when  he  gives 
a  dinner  at  the  Hotel  d'Europe  to  Kronenberg  (the  richest 
banker  in  Poland),  it  is  not  less  magnificent  than  Kronen- 
berg's  own  dinners — and  then  he  pays." 

According  to  this  way  of  looking  at  it,  it  is  only  necessary 
to  pay  for  the  unnecessary,  the  superfluous.  Nowhere  else 
indeed  does  the  superfluous  stand  in  so  great  honour.  The 
young  men  of  the  highest  class  in  Poland  are  products  of 
luxury,  extremely  engaging,  gently  affectionate  like  women, 
delicate  as  late  off-shoots  of  old  noble  stocks.  As  a  rule 
they  do  not  work  ;  and  when  by  exception  they  do,  without 
necessity,  devote  themselves  to  a  study,  prepare  themselves 
for  a  professorship,  or  something  of  that  sort,  they  awake 
general  amazement  and  wonder.  They  applaud  a  young  man 
not  for  working,  but  because  he  does  the  superfluous. 

Thus  to  do  the  superfluous  has  always  been  the  char- 
acteristic of  Polish  heroism.  The  men  of  the  great  days 
of  Poland  have  taken  part  in  the  most  varied  European 
wars  whenever  the  contest  was  about  an  object  which  had 
their  sympathy.  They  fought  in  1848,  and  later  in  the 
Crimea,  in  Italy,  in  Turkey.  Thus  it  was  with  the  old  Ordon, 
sung  by  Mickiewicz,  the  hero  of  1831,  who  blew  up  his 
redoubt  before  Warsaw  when  the  Russians  entered  it,  and 
who  was  himself  saved  by  a  miracle.  He  had  been  every- 
where where  a  blow  was  struck  for  freedom  or  against 
Russia.  Until  last  year  this  true  hero,  in  whom  all  that  is 
lofty  and  rare  in  the  Polish  character  was  combined,  lived  a 
quiet  life  in  Florence.  Proud  and  poor  as  he  was  and  ad- 
vanced in  age,  unable  to  work,  in  his  fear  of  becoming  a 
burden  to  others,  he  put  an  end  to  his  life  by  a  pistol  shot. 
His  courage  was  that  of  a  knight-errant.  And  this  kind  of 
martial  courage  is  found  in  spirits  of  the  second  rank,  as, 
for  instance,  the  lately  deceased  Tripplin,  who  in  his  accounts 


INCIDENT    OB'    1863  65 

of  his  travels  has  given  a  sympathetic,  idealised  description  of 
Denmark.  He  also  took  part  in  the  most  varied  wars  for 
freedom,  and  was  everywhere  where  there  was  any  fighting 
against  Russia. 

The  following  incident  of  the  last  rebellion  well  illus- 
trates the  Polish  disposition  to  show  a  courage  which  has 
no  regard  to  the  useful.  When  in  1863  all  hope  for  the 
cause  of  Poland  was  lost,  at  the  last  meeting  of  the  national 
Government  its  chief  announced  that  he  should  remain  in 
Warsaw  ;  that  he  would  not  run  away  ;  the  other  members 
of  the  Government  could  still  save  themselves,  and  he  handed 
them  the  passports  which  had  been  prepared.  Then  they 
also  determined  to  remain,  and  to  expose  themselves  to  all 
the  dangers  of  being  taken  as  leaders  of  the  rebellion,  rather 
than  fly  before  the  enemy  against  whom  they  had  risen. 

With  such  virtues  and  the  vices  which  have  been  touched 
upon,  people  do  not  get  on  in  the  world  in  the  nineteenth 
century.  They  are  not  even  honoured  and  respected,  much 
less  strong  and  great.  The  grace  of  magnanimity  and  reck- 
lessness is  badly  placed  in  our  time  between  German 
prudence  and  Russian  might. 


Ill 

EDUCATION  AND  INSTRUCTION  — DEMOCRATS,  SO- 
CIALISTS, FREE-THINKERS— COMPULSORY  CHOICE 
OF  THE  CULTURED 

Oppression  has  now  reached  its  greatest  height  in  Russian 
Poland  since  the  partition  of  the  kingdom.  So  complete  is 
the  gagging  of  the  press  that  the  refutation  of  the  arguments 
in  Bismarck's  speeches,  or  any  attack  upon  them,  was  strictly 
forbidden.  No  one  even  dared  to  show  that  the  Polish 
agitation  with  which,  according  to  the  prince,  it  was  necessary 
to  contend,  for  very  good  reasons  only  consisted  in  an 
unbroken  determination  to  maintain  the  nationality  and 
language  against  the  foreign  conqueror,  who,  on  his  side, 
sets  the  whole  machinery  of  state  in  operation,  and  uses  all 
its  powers. 

The  aim  of  the  government  in  Russian  Poland,  as  already 
mentioned,  is  especially  directed  to  two  objects  :  the  Russian- 
ising  of  the  ownership  of  the  soil,  and  the  eradication  of  the 
Polish  language. 

The  ukase  of  1865,  which  has  been  spoken  of,  forbade 
the  Poles  in  the  old  Polish  provinces  to  devise  their  land 
to  any  others  than  their  children.  In  March  1886,  however, 
the  Russian  Courts  hit  upon  a  decision  of  even  broader 
import,  since  a  will  in  which  a  Lithuanian  proprietor  had 
left  his  estate  to  his  son  was  declared  invalid,  and  the  land 
was  sold  by  auction. 

In  the  Kingdom  of  Poland  it  is  still  permitted  to  speak 
Polish  in  the  open  street,  and  to  write  a  notice  in  Polish, 
provided  that  above  it  the  same  is  written  in  Russian  ;  but 
anywhere  outside  of  the  so-called  kingdom — in  the  whole 
of  Lithuania  towards  the  north,  and  in  the  south  as  far  as 
Odessa  —  everywhere,   where    culture    and   language  in   the 

66 


PROHIBITION    OF   THE    POLISH    LANGUAGE     67 

cultivated^classes  are  still  Polish,  in  and  on  all  public  build- 
ings a  notice  is  posted  with  the  words  :  "  The  speaking  of 
Polish  is  forbidden."  The  violation  of  the  prohibition  is 
punished  severely,  and  every  functionary,  even  to  the  low- 
liest, who  is  reported  to  have  said  a  few  words  in  Polish, 
even  as  an  answer  to  a  question  in  Polish,  even  to  persons 
who  do  not  understand  any  other  language,  is  punished  with 
heavy  fines  or  dismissal.  A  tramcar  conductor  was  recently 
fined  twenty-five  rubles — more  than  his  month's  pay — for 
having  answered  a  Polish  question  in  the  same  language. 

Just  imagine  a  trial  in  Russian  Poland.  The  magistrate, 
who  is  generally  a  Pole  by  birth,  and  speaks  Russian  with 
difficulty  and  with  a  bad  accent,  questions  in  his  Russian  the 
accused,  a  Polish  peasant,  who  does  not  understand  a  word 
of  the  judge's  speech.  The  questions  are  therefore  trans- 
lated by  an  interpreter.  He  answers  in  Polish.  New  trans- 
lation by  the  interpreter,  unnecessary  as  it  is,  and  thus 
questions  and  answers  continue,  because  neither  magistrate 
nor  accused  is  permitted  to  speak  his  native  language. 
And  at  the  public  trial  the  prosecuting  counsel  speaks  against 
the  accused  in  a  language  which  the  latter  understands  no 
more  than  what  his  counsel  says  in  his  behalf. 

The  Kingdom  of  Poland,  where  the  language  is  still 
allowed,  and  where  the  Code  Napoleon  is  still  in  force,  seems 
to  the  inhabitants  of  the  other  provinces  comparatively  a 
paradise  of  freedom.  They  go  from  Wilna  to  Warsaw  for 
a  few  weeks  every  year  to  breathe  freely. 

He  who  has  experienced  the  state  of  things  in  this 
paradise  of  freedom  can  draw  his  own  conclusions  as  to 
what  it  is  in  the  provinces. 

So  far  as  education  is  concerned,  the  parents  keep 
their  little  boy  or  girl  at  home  and  out  of  school  as  long  as 
possible,  teach  them  themselves,  or  have  them  taught,  in  order 
to  give  the  first  elements  of  knowledge  in  Polish  and  in  the 
Polish  spirit.  The  child  sucks  in  with  his  mother's  milk 
contempt  for  the  Russians,  and  passionate  hatred  for  them. 
Everything  which  the  child  hears  in  the  first  years  of 
his  life  strengthens  this  hatred  and  contempt.  He  learns 
so  much  that  is  great  and  good  about  the  superior  culture 


68  IMPRESSIONS    OP^    POLAND 

and  exalted  courage  of  his  countrymen  that  he  attributes 
everything  great  to  Poland  and  the  Poles.  "  Is  it  possible  that 
Columbus  was  not  a  Pole  ?  "  asked  a  little  boy  of  his  mother 
in  my  presence.  On  the  other  hand,  as  a  rule  everything 
which  the  child  learns  or  experiences  with  regard  to  the 
Russians  is  unfavourable,  or  it  receives  an  unfavourable 
interpretation.  The  Russian  officers  are  unobtrusive  in 
their  bearing  in  public  places  ;  they  are  generally  seen  alone, 
seldom  two  and  two.  It  is  not  the  custom  as  it  is  in  other 
armies  for  them  to  greet  each  other  when  they  meet.  Their 
behaviour  is  not  in  the  least  arrogant  ;  they  rather  seem 
oppressed  by  their  situation  as  the  detested  representatives 
of  the  ruling  race.  But  the  uniform  is  unpopular  ;  the 
Poles  do  not  give  the  officers  credit  for  their  modesty,  they 
take  it  rather  as  proof  of  consciousness  of  intellectual 
inferiority.  And  a  single  little  incident  like  this,  that  the 
carriage  of  the  Russian  general,  on  leaving  a  public  ball, 
breaks  the  established  row  of  carriages  and  goes  ahead, 
arouses  the  bitter  feeling  of  living  in  a  land  conquered  by 
an  enemy. 

There  is,  of  course,  a  Russian  colony  in  Warsaw,  but 
there  is  no  real  Russian  society  on  account  of  the  great 
disparities  in  rank  among  the  Russians  who  live  there. 
They  cannot  accept  each  other  as  equals.  And  here,  as 
elsewhere,  the  Russian  officials  do  not  bear  the  highest 
characters.  In  addition  to  which,  the  better-class  Russians 
think  themselves  too  good  to  accept  posts  in  Poland.  They 
shrink  from  the  odium  attached  to  the  calling. 

A  few  years  ago  a  Russian  was  appointed  Professor  of 
Zoology  at  the  Warsaw  University.  He  arrived,  and  was 
shown  over  the  museum  of  stuffed  animals.  He  noticed 
that  the  names  on  the  labels  were  in  Latin  and  Russian 
only.  "  Why  not  in  Polish  ?  "  he  asked.  The  Rector  of  the 
University  explained  to  him  that  he  had  been  sent  to 
Warsaw  not  primarily  to  give  instruction  in  zoology — it 
was  comparatively  unimportant  whether  the  students  learned 
much  or  little  of  the  subject — but  to  carry  on  the  Russian 
propaganda.  The  new  Professor  then  inquired  when  the 
next  train  left  for  St.  Petersburg,  and  departed  incontinently. 


EDUCATION    OF    CHILDREN  69 

In  the  same  way  the  leading  Russian  actress  declined  to  go 
to  Warsaw  with  the  imperial  troupe,  and  declared  she  would 
not  act  there  until  she  might  do  so  in  Polish.  But  such 
cases  are  exceptional. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  are  incidents  of  the  very  oppo- 
site description,  which  a  Polish  child  daily  witnesses  and 
hears  discussed  in  his  home.  Hatred  of  the  Muscovite 
{Moskal)  becomes  a  part  of  his  nature. 

He  is  finally  sent  to  school,  that  is,  he  has  to  be  given 
up  to  the  Russian  state,  to  Russian  teachers.  In  his  own 
home  his  mother  has  always  dressed  him  in  the  Polish 
national  costume,  which  is  not  allowed  in  the  street.  He 
has  lived  with  picture-books  and  paintings  which  have  shown 
him  scenes  of  the  past  history  of  Poland,  of  the  revolutions 
of  this  century,  of  the  march  of  the  exiles  to  Siberia  ;  he 
knows  the  career  of  Poland  minutely.  In  school  the  boy 
is  dressed  in  Russian  uniform,  is  addressed  only  in  Russian, 
is  never  allowed  to  speak  a  single  word  that  is  not  Russian, 
never  hears  anything  about  Poland  or  Polish  literature,  or 
if  it  is  mentioned  at  all,  it  is  spoken  of  as  something  pro- 
hibited, evil.  He  learns  here  that  he  is  Russian,  and 
nothing  else  than  Russian.  What  confusion  in  the  child's 
soul !  The  boy  is  compelled  to  be  a  hypocrite,  to  tell  lies. 
The  seeds  of  defiance  and  self-restraint,  or  of  falsehood  and 
flattery,  are  planted  in  his  soul.  Desperate  questions  as  to 
whether  resistance  is  of  any  use,  whether  justice  exists, 
necessarily  arise. 

The  schools  are  bad.  The  circumstance  that  the  whole 
instruction  is  given  in  a  foreign  language,  and  that  an 
inordinate  stress  is  laid  upon  the  acquirement  of  it ;  the 
dislike  and  constraint,  which  are  the  result  thereof ;  lastly, 
the  habit  of  looking  on  the  teacher  as  a  foreigner  and  an 
enemy  have  a  great  effect  in  diminishing  the  result.  There 
is  a  minority  of  the  students  who  understand  French,  and 
speak  it  well  ;  a  certain  number  understand  and  speak  the 
language  of  the  frontier — German  ;  but  the  majority  are 
barely  able  to  read  foreign  books,  and  many  do  not  under- 
stand a  simple  question  in  French  or  German.  Those  who 
are  well-to-do  go  to  foreign  lands  to  study;  if  they  cannot 


70  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

obtain  permission  for  this  they  prefer  to  go  to  St.  Petersburg, 
where  they  find  less  restraint  and  better  professors,  rather 
than  remain  in  Warsaw,  where  the  university  instruction  as 
a  rule  is  bad. 

When  the  University  was  suddenly  transformed  from 
Polish  to  Russian,  those  professors  who  did  not  know 
Russian  asked  leave  to  retire.  Several  of  them  remained, 
however,  chiefly  from  patriotic  reasons.  But  by  degrees 
the  University  was  purged,  and  the  Polish  professors  were 
replaced  by  Russians,  or  by  those  who  were  favourable  to 
Russia.  The  regulation  has  been  made  that  after  twenty- 
five  years'  service  a  professor  can  be  dismissed,  unless  the 
faculty  specially  desire  to  retain  him.  They  never  desire  to 
retain  an  eminent  Polish  professor.  Thus,  last  year,  Bara- 
nowski,  the  first  medical  professor  of  the  University,  received 
his  dismissal  as  coming  within  the  limit,  although,  since  he 
was  very  young  when  he  was  appointed,  he  was  just  fifty 
years  old  and  in  full  possession  of  his  powers.  As  Professor 
of  Esthetics  and  the  History  of  Literature,  passing  by  the  de- 
serving and  sound  historian  of  literature,  Piotr  Chmielowski, 
they  have  appointed  a  certain  Struwe,  the  only  man  who 
could  be  found  who  would  speak  Russian.  Sometimes  he 
succeeds  in  obtaining  three  auditors. 

The  halls  are  so  small  that  none  of  them  hold  over  a 
hundred,  and  not  one  of  them  is  ever  full. 

The  students  have  to  wear  a  uniform  like  the  pupils  of 
schools,  and  they  are  under  strict  supervision.  It  is  naturally 
forbidden  to  them  to  form  any  union  whatsoever.  They  are 
not  allowed  to  stand  in  a  knot  on  the  street,  and  if  they 
even  assemble  at  all  in  private  to  the  number  of  six  or 
seven,  they  are  sure  to  be  reported  and  punished ;  for 
everything  is  known.  No  one  goes  in  or  out  of  a  house 
unseen.  Latch-keys  are  unknown — and  there  is  no  northern 
institution  one  can  speak  of  which  astonishes  an  inhabitant 
of  Russian  Poland  more  than  the  latch-key.  "  Does  the 
government  allow  such  things  ?  "  they  ask,  with  amazement. 
Every  one,  even  the  master  of  the  house,  must  ring  at 
his  door,  and  the  porter  {Siroz),  who  corresponds  to  the 
Russian  Dvornick,  and  whose  duty  it  is  to  be  responsible  for 


THE    DEMOCRATIC    GROUP  71 

the  safety  of  the  inmates,  invariably  serves  also  as  an  instru- 
ment of  the  police. 

Thus  the  students  are  driven  to  study  alone,  but  this 
is  also  made  difficult.  A  great  many  of  the  most  cele- 
barated  foreign  works,  as  well  as  the  most  important  of  the 
literature  of  their  own  land,  are  forbidden,  and  must  be  got 
over  the  frontier  as  smuggled  goods,  which  on  the  one  hand 
increases  the  cost  and  on  the  other  is  dangerous.  Therefore 
it  cannot  be  wondered  at  that  among  the  more  intelligent 
of  these  young  men  there  are  found  many  with  far-reaching 
anti-governmental  views. 

There  are  no  Nihilists  among  them  :  neither  the  name 
nor  the  thing  is  known  in  Poland.  The  most  advanced 
among  them  fall  into  two  groups.  Some  call  themselves 
democrats  and  some  socialists.  The  democrats  hold  the 
views  which  are  supported  in  Prawda.  Still,  their  chief 
mterest  is  not  social  or  political,  but  purely  intellectual. 
They  constitute  the  first  free-thinking  group  of  this  cen- 
tury in  Poland.  But  as  Catholicism  and  the  power 
of  the  clergy  from  remote  times  have  had  their  support 
in  the  Polish  aristocracy,  which  represents  the  national 
tradition,  and  as  the  press  of  the  aristocracy,  especially  the 
newspaper  Slowo,  is  the  organ  of  Catholicism,  free-thinking 
allies  itself  with  democratic  inclinations  and  aims. 

The  young  men  who  hold  democratic  views  would  like 
to  introduce  into  Poland  modern  thoughts,  views,  theories 
and  books.  They  would  like  to  translate  even  the  trivial 
protests  of  Max  Nordau,  if  they  were  not  afraid  of  the  censor. 
Their  strongest  speaker,  Swientochowski,  is  about  forty  years 
old,  handsome,  clear-eyed,  stubborn,  with  a  head  like  that 
of  a  provincial  Christ,  a  poet  and  a  fine  writer,  and,  above 
all,  a  character.  He  has  great  qualities  as  a  controversialist 
and  as  a  didactic  author,  but  his  dogmatism  causes  him  to  be 
easily  involved  in  squabbles,  and  he  lacks  grace  and  tact. 
His  chief  task  is  a  war  against  the  Catholic  clergy.  But  an 
attack  upon  the  clergy  in  Poland,  even  more  than  elsewhere, 
is  an  unpopular  thing,  because  the  nationality  of  the  country 
has  been  for  so  long  a  time  bound  up  with  the  Romish 
religion,  and  because  the   religious   difference  even   now — 


72  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

since  the  educational  standard  of  the  people  is  so  low — 
makes  the  strongest  bulwark  of  the  nation. 

Then  it  also  appears — albeit  it  is  denied  and  the  adherents 
of  Prawda  do  not  like  to  hear  it — that  the  censor  is  more 
indulgent  to  this  paper  than  to  any  other.  It  has  permission 
to  say  things  which  would  be  forbidden  to  any  other  journal. 
For  everything  which  tends  towards  cosmopolitanism  and 
which  undermines  the  Catholic  church  is  far  less  dangerous 
to  Russia  than  the  nationalistic  religious  tendency.  The  in- 
fluence of  the  Roman  Church  still  appears  to  Russia  its  chief 
enemy  and  chief  danger. 

There  is  only  one  power  in  Poland  which  Russia  per- 
secutes and  fears  to  the  same  degree,  perhaps  even  more, 
and  that  is — singularly  enough — Socialism. 

I  have  said  that  there  is  a  group  among  the  studious  youth 
■who  call  themselves  Socialists ;  a  large  number  of  the  woi  k- 
ing  people  are  of  the  same  mind  through  the  influence  of  the 
socialistic  thought  of  Germany.  I  believe  that  these  so-called 
Socialists  among  the  students  are  of  the  highest  class,  the  best 
informed,  the  most  enthusiastic  and  devoted  ;  they  are  mostly 
young  doctors  who  have  acquired  modern  science,  and  who 
by  reading  at  first  or  at  second  hand  have  become  disciples 
of  Karl  Marx.  They  feel  keenly  the  existing  injustice  of  the 
conditions  of  society.  They  realise  that,  even  if  Poland  per 
impossibile  should  become  free,  little  or  nothing  would  be 
gained  if  the  aristocracy  or  the  clergy  should  continue  to 
exercise  the  ruling  influence,  and  capital  should  continue  to 
exploit  those  who  own  no  property.  They  have  nothing 
against  the  Russians  as  Russians,  and  dream  vaguely  of 
allying  themselves  with  the  revolutionary  elements  in  Russia, 
of  which  indeed  they  know  nothing.  They  pay  dearly  for 
the  perilous  and  wholly  Platonic  sympathy  for  Socialism 
which  they  cherish.  For  every  student  who  is  accused  or 
suspected  of  socialist  propagandism  is  sent  relentlessly  to  the 
castle,  even  if  he  has  not  been  guilty  of  the  smallest  illegality. 

It  is  the  danger  threatening  from  Russian  socialism  which 
makes  the  government  so  anxious  about  that  of  Poland. 
The  five  political  criminals  who  were  hanged  in  the  prison 
of  Warsaw  at  the  end  of  January  were  Russians.     The  case, 


THE    BARDOWSKI    CONSPIRACY  73 

which  came  to  an  end  here,  turned  upon  a  conspiracy 
organised  by  an  inferior  magistrate  by  the  name  of  Bardowski, 
a  political  plot  wholly  without  a  prospect  of  success.  The 
conspirators  had  drawn  up  socialist  proclamations,  which 
were  to  be  given  to  the  working  people  of  Warsaw  ;  they 
had  stabbed  a  cigar  dealer,  in  whose  shop  one  of  them,  an 
engineer  by  the  name  of  Kunicki,  had  been  stupid  enough 
to  forget  the  protocol  with  the  names  of  all  the  conspirators, 
and  who  in  his  anxiety  had  taken  the  book  to  a  police 
station. 

Very  little  appeared  against  the  accused,  so  little  that  the 
Governor-General  of  Poland — the  celebrated  General  Guiko, 
who  is  of  Polish  descent,  and  whose  name  properly  pro- 
nounced is  the  Polish  Hurko — after  the  sentence  of  death  was 
pronounced,  twice  sent  the  papers  to  St.  Petersburg  with  the 
declaration  that  he  could  not  see  how  they  could  condemn 
these  men  to  death.  Since  the  death  sentence  was  neverthe- 
less confirmed,  the  governor,  who  is  humane  without  on 
that  account  being  known  as  soft-hearted,  acted  as  follows. 
He  caused  the  condemned  persons  to  be  awakened  early 
one  morning,  and  they  were  then  told  that  they  were 
sentenced  to  banishment,  and  must  therefore  take  leave  of 
their  relatives,  and  if  they  desired  it,  see  a  priest  to  prepare 
them  for  their  long  journey.  They  all  declared  that  they 
did  not  desire  to  communicate  with  any  minister  of  religion. 
One  of  them  wished  to  say  good-bye  to  his  father,  who  was 
sent  for.  They  were  then  taken  to  a  closed  room,  where 
the  execution  was  to  take  place.  The  sentence  was  pro- 
nounced there,  and  at  the  same  moment  the  executioners 
seized  them  and  hanged  them  in  the  room. 

It  is  most  significant  that  two  Russian  officers  who  were 
condemned  to  death,  but  who  at  the  last  moment  had  their 
sentence  commuted  to  hard  labour  in  the  mines  for  life — 
which  is  virtually  the  death  punishment^  since  no  one  can 
endure  it  for  more  than  four  or  five  years — were  not  guilty 
of  anything  whatever  except  that  they  had  received  some 
pamphlets  and  proclamations  from  Bardowski,  which  they 
had  not  shown  to  any  one,  so  far  as  could  be  proved,  much 
less  sought  to  distribute,  but  which  were  found  in  their  houses. 


74  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

So  dangerous  is  it  to  have  socialistic  writings  in  one's 
custody. 

However,  no  Pole  ought  to  hazard  freedom  and  life  for 
the  sake  of  socialistic  ideas.  For  in  general  it  may  be  said, 
though  young  men  with  socialist  sympathies  in  Warsaw  are, 
strangely  enough,  surprised  to  hear  one  maintain  it,  that  there 
is  no  sense  in  a  Pole  being  a  Socialist.  For  what  does 
Socialism  mean,  shortly  expressed  ?  What  else  than  directly 
or  indirectly,  the  expropriation  of  private  rich  men,  capitalists 
and  landed  proprietors,  for  the  advantage  of  the  State  ?  But 
translate  this  into  Polish,  and  it  becomes  under  the  con- 
ditions that  prevail  now,  and  have  long  prevailed,  absolutely 
nothing  else  than  the  expropriation  of  Polish  rich  men  for  the 
advantage  of  the  Russian  State.  But  whatever  the  Russian 
State  has  once  annexed  may  be  called  a  thing  of  the  past. 
It  would  require  a  strong  faith  to  think  that  it  would  ultimately 
profit  the  Polish  common  people,  when  one  lives  in  a  city 
like  Warsaw,  where  there  is  no  municipal  government,  and 
where  the  revenues  of  the  municipality  go  straight  to  St. 
Petersburg  and  only  an  extremely  small  portion  thereof  is 
used  for  the  city's  own  advantage. 

The  only  thing  the  Polish  Socialist  actually  can  do  is 
therefore  to  excite  the  workmen  against  their  employers, 
arouse  their  discontent,  and  lead  them  on  to  strikes  which 
almost  always  end  in  defeat.  Since  election  does  not  exist, 
so  to  speak,  and  a  real  party  can  never  be  formed,  all  socialist 
action  on  a  larger  scale  is  impossible,  wholly  apart  from  its 
ruinous  effect  upon  the  individuality  of  the  Polish  people. 

A  similar  consideration  to  that  which  ought  to  prevent  a 
thoughtful  and  prudent  Pole  from  placing  himself  on  the  side 
of  the  Polish  Socialists,  even  if  he  is  otherwise  inclined  to 
socialistic  theories,  should  prevent  him  from  giving  his  full 
support  to  the  free-thinking  group  in  Poland. 

One  can  be  as  good  an  European  as  any  one,  one  may 
despise  all  the  chauvinism,  which  as  national  conceit  merely 
stupefies  a  people,  and  still  regard  the  forcible  annihilation 
of  a  rich  and  valuable  national  individuality  as  a  misfortune 
for  the  whole  of  Europe. 

It  seems  to  me  as  if  all  other  questions  in  Poland  must 


THE    DILEMMA    OF    THE    DEMOCRATS         75 

be  subordinate  to  this  first  and  most  important :  the  pre- 
servation of  the  nationahty.  But  at  a  time  like  this,  when 
it  is  absolutely  forbidden  to  establish  Polish  schools,  or  to  give 
peasants  or  the  lower  classes  national  instruction  of  any  kind, 
a  comprehensive  free-thinking  agitation,  which  would  paralyse 
the  Catholic  faith,  would  also  paralyse  Polish  national  feeling. 
Unquestionably  there  are  Protestant  Poles  in  Posen  and 
scattered  in  Russian  Poland  numerous  united  churches, 
which  (in  spite  of  the  fact  that  their  priests  are  married  and 
their  relations  with  Rome  looser  than  those  of  the  Roman 
Catholics)  feel  themselves  to  be  very  good  Poles  ;  but  this  is 
the  consequence  of  the  power  of  a  tradition. 

A  rupture  with  the  religious  tradition  at  this  period,  if  it 
could  be  brought  about  among  the  masses,  would  always 
be  a  victory  for  the  Russian  principle. 

To  be  called  a  democrat  has  no  sound  meaning  either, 
unless  the  word  expresses  the  opinion  that  the  masses  of  the 
people  ought  to  rule.  It  is  rather  fruitless  to  cherish  this 
opinion  so  long  as  nobility  and  peasantry  are  in  an  equal 
degree  under  the  whip  of  the  foreigner.  All  that  the 
democrats  are  able  to  accomplish  is  to  oppose  the  influence 
of  the  large  landed  proprietors,  by  election  of  the  parish 
council  in  the  country,  and  of  the  managers  in  private  under- 
takings, a  good  and  useful  thing,  in  so  far  as  it  arouses  a 
feeling  of  independence  among  the  people,  a  cause  of  less 
undoubted  profit,  in  so  far  as  it  lightens  for  the  Russians  tlie 
labour  of  breaking  the  power  of  resistance  of  the  higher  classes. 

A  dreadful  dilemma  presents  itself  to  the  Polish  in-  P 
telligence ;  it  seems  condemned  either  to  choose  progress, 
with  the  danger  of  playing  into  the  hands  of  its  own  worst  \ 
enemy,  and  the  worst  enemy  of  all  progress,  or  to  choose 
stagnation,  with  the  danger  that  the  nationality  which  is 
thereby  preserved,  and  of  which  its  sons  were  and  are  so 
proud,  should  drop  behind  in  the  culture  of  Europe,  becoming 
antiquated  and  outstripped. 

There  is  something  really  tragic  in  this  situation.  More 
than  one  man,  who  represents  the  Polish  intelligence  in  its 
highest  development,  sees  himself  —  like  the  proud  Count 
Henrik   in    Krasinski's   tragedy — condemned   to   defend   the 


76  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

citadel  of  the  Holy  Trinity.  These  men  are  modern  men, 
and  they  are  silent  on  the  subject.  They  are  free-thinkers, 
and  if  as  landed  proprietors  in  Posen  they  have  seats 
in  the  German  Parliament  and  the  Prussian  Herrenhaus, 
they  vote  invariably  with  the  centre.  There  are  those 
among  them  who  would  very  gladly  dine  with  a  socialist 
leader  like  Viereck,  and  yet  officially  follow  Windhorst's  flag. 
They  know  Heinrich  Heine  by  heart  and  belong  to  the 
Catholic  party.  They  are  free-thinkers,  and  as  Poles  feel 
themselves  compelled  to  support  Rome  —  an  intellectual 
torment  which  is  not  known  anywhere  else. 

And  in  all  domains  it  is  manifest  how  patriotic  or  sup- 
posed patriotic  struggles  repress  modern  intellectual  life : 
in  the  plastic  arts,  where  patriotic  allegories  and  symbols 
have  too  long  usurped  the  place  of  pictures  of  real  life, 
and  in  literature,  where  the  historical  romance  still  blossoms, 
a  late  aftermath  of  Walter  Scott.  The  writer  of  greatest 
narrative  talent  among  the  living  authors  of  Poland,  Henryk 
Sienkiewickz,  made  his  d^but  with  excellent  modern  novels  ; 
gradually  associating  himself  with  the  Catholic  party,  he  has 
taken  up  the  line  of  great  patriotic  historical  romances  in  the 
style  of  The  Three  Musketeers,  with  endless  sequels.  He  re- 
gards it  as  his  task  in  view  of  the  depressing  present  to 
show  the  people  the  image  of  a  past,  when  it  still  existed 
as  a  nation,  and  he  prefers  to  describe  the  most  unhappy 
period  of  the  old  history  of  Poland,  in  order  to  strengthen 
the  people's  faith  in  the  surmountableness  of  the  existing 
wretched  condition  by  pictures  of  the  terrible  crises  of 
bygone  days.  Nevertheless,  in  spite  of  all  his  talent,  the 
result  is  that  when  from  times  which  he  knows  he  goes 
back  to  times  which  he  does  not  know,  and  works  with  an 
aim  entirely  different  from  that  of  art  before  his  eyes,  he 
generally  falls  so  far  short  as  an  author  that  he  loses  his 
best  readers,  and  his  novels  are  only  successful  as  a  means 
of  amusement,  or  as  stimulants  to  patriotic  feeling. 

Just  as  socialist  and  democratic  or  free-thinking  ten- 
dencies do  not  mean  the  same  in  Poland  as  elsewhere,  so 
also  Catholic  and  conservative  leanings  have  a  special 
character  here. 


CATHOLICISM    A    PATRIOTIC    FORCE  77 

In  German  literature,  for  instance,  the  Catholic  tendency 
of  Romanticism  in  this  century  is  sharply  opposed  to  the 
Protestant  form  of  the  earlier  literature  and  the  purely  pagan 
bias  of  contemporary  literature  ;  but  in  Poland,  CathoHcism 
in  this  century  has  always  been  in  opposition,  in  con- 
stant, restless  conflict  with  the  power  of  the  State,  frequently 
blended  with  that  love  for  the  truth  which  emancipates,  and 
with  that  enthusiasm  which  exposes  to  martyrdom.  In 
Protestant  countries  the  clergy  are  as  a  rule  servile  ;  in 
Poland  they  never  are  and  never  can  be  degraded  into 
tools  of  temporal  power. 

There  are  Catholic  priests  whom  their  superiors  permit  to 
write  in  newspapers,  to  visit  the  theatres  and  participate  in 
social  life,  because  it  is  known  that  they  are  wholly  absorbed 
in  the  double  object  of  exercising  charity  and  of  keeping  the 
language  of  Poland  alive  in  the  most  remote  provinces. 
People  close  their  eyes  to  infringements  of  the  Catholic 
ritual  among  them,  nay,  even  at  a  probable  disbelief  in 
certain  dogmas,  because  they  know  them  to  be  zealous 
supporters  of  Catholicism  as  the  intellectual  Polish  national 
power.  The  stamp  of  comparatively  innocent  hypocrisy, 
which  unquestionably  adheres  to  them,  injures  them  only 
among  the  few.    General  opinion  regards  them  favourably. 

As  may  be  seen,  according  to  my  opinion,  the  point  of 
view  for  the  appraisement  of  the  different  parties  and 
intellectual  powers,  which  the  foreigner  feels  himself  com- 
pelled to  adopt,  is  this :  how  far  do  they  offer  a  greater  or 
lesser  power  of  resistance  to  the  principle  which  aims  by  all 
means  at  breaking  down  the  individuality  of  the  people,  the 
new  and  fearful  principle  of  Asiatic  absolute  monarchy  ? 
It  will  be  only  when  the  danger  which  is  threatened  herefrom 
is  removed  that  Poland  can  afford  the  luxury  of  measuring 
the  different  aims  of  the  times  by  a  new  and  sounder  standard. 
But  so  long  as  this  principle  triumphs,  so  long  will  this  dis- 
membered and  tortured  Poland  be  the  unquestioned  repre- 
sentative of  humanity  as  opposed  to  it,  the  advance  post  of 
civilisation,  even  in  domains  where  its  form  is  not  modern,  and 
so  long  will  the  tattered  flag  with  the  white  eagle  of  ancient 
Poland  remain  the  old  unique,  adorable  banner  of  freedom. 


IV 

POLISH  LIFE  AND  THE  RUSSIAN  SYSTEM— PUBLIC 
FESTIVITIES  AND  MASQUERADES,  SOCIAL  LIFE 
IN  DIFFERENT  CIRCLES— THE  SAME  OPPRESSIVE 
ATMOSPHERE  EVERYWHERE 

Opposed  to  the  Polish  life,  impulsive,  pulsating,  now  weaker, 
now  stronger,  stands  the  Russian  system,  the  heavy  Russian 
force  system,  working  like  a  machine,  the  mechanism  of 
eradication  and  extermination. 

It  strives  not  only  to  cut  down  all  free  shoots  of 
nationality  and  of  the  culture  of  the  language,  but  to  strike 
at  its  growth  in  its  roots,  to  sap  its  germs,  to  blast  its  seed. 

And  even  this  is  not  enough.  The  system  fears  all  the 
germs  which  are  floating  in  the  air,  which  drift  with  the  wind, 
swim  in  the  streams.  It  is  afraid  of  everything  which  fills 
the  air  in  the  guise  of  song  or  laughter  or  tears,  of  every- 
thing which  rises  to  the  lips  in  words,  of  everything  which 
captivates  the  eye  as  a  beloved  colour. 

Against  everything,  even  things  the  most  airy  and  spiritual, 
the  system  has  a  prohibition.  For  the  national  dress  it  has 
given  a  uniform  ;  for  song,  silence  ;  for  laughter,  silence  ; 
for  wailing,  silence ;  for  speech,  silence  ;  and  for  everything 
which  is  published  at  home  or  abroad,  the  censor.  It  has 
built  a  wall  about  this  land,  and  striven  to  make  it  so  high 
that  no  bird  can  fly  over  it,  and  so  dense  that  no  breeze  can 
pass  through  it. 

The  national  dress  is  forbidden  even  as  a  carnival 
costume,  even  in  historical  dramas  in  the  theatre.  Poland's 
colours,  Poland's  arms  are  strictly  prohibited,  must  not 
even  remain  on  the  front  of  an  old  house,  or  on  the 
frame  of  an  old  painting.  The  national  songs  are  so  strictly 
forbidden  that  people  are  shy  of  playing   them  even   in   a 

private  house,  if  there  is  a  large  company. 

78 


SOCIAL    MELANCHOLY  79 

Laughter  indeed  is  not  forbidden,  but  it  forbids  itself. 
It  is  so  rare  that  a  foreigner  who  late  at  night  in  the  society 
of  his  acquaintances  laughs  aloud  at  some  conceit,  sees  the 
police  and  gendarmes  assemble  with  signs  of  astonishment. 
I  never  heard  any  laughter  in  the  streets  of  Warsaw  but 
my  own. 

Silence  and  seriousness  are  the  two  traits  which  above  all 
are  characteristic  of  Poland.  It  is  a  land  where  no  one 
publicly  expresses  mirth. 

Go  into  the  great  student  cafd  which  is  situated  opposite 
the  University.  No  one  says  a  word  aloud.  Go  out  in  the 
street.  There  is  never  a  shout.  No  one  likes  to  attract 
attention  to  himself.  Or  take  as  example  a  large  public  ball, 
under  the  patronage  of  the  best  society.  The  orchestra 
thunders,  the  mazurka  is  danced  through  all  its  figures  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  at  the  stretch.  But  in  a  corner 
of  the  hall  stands  in  a  circle  of  young  officers  the  strict 
old  General  Kriidener,  who  was  defeated  at  Plevna  after 
having  been  compelled  to  make  a  hopeless  attack,  much 
against  his  will.  In  another  corner  stands  Colonel  Brock, 
only  some  thirty  years  old,  who  has  risen  to  be  chief  of 
the  gendarmerie,  the  political  police,  who  are  rather  disliked 
by  the  other  corps  of  the  army,  and  with  whose  officers 
the  officers  of  the  army  do  not  like  to  have  anything  to  do, 
but  whose  commander  nevertheless  is  the  most  important 
man  in  the  city,  more  important  even  than  the  Governor- 
General  ;  for  a  command  of  his  is  final ;  there  is  no  appeal 
from  his  orders.  The  thought  of  the  qualities  which  he 
must  have  displayed  in  order  to  have  attained  such  a  post 
at  his  age,  presents  itself  involuntarily  to  the  mind.  His 
glance  flies  uninterruptedly  about  the  hall  and  puts  a  certain 
damper  on  the  gaiety.     Where  it  falls,  falls  silence. 

Or  take  a  great  rout  in  a  public  hall.  It  is  a  beautiful 
sight,  but  a  quiet  festival.  It  is  allowed  because  the  object 
is  charitable ;  an  asylum  or  a  foundling  hospital  receives  the 
profits. 

Against  the  pillars  of  the  hall  sit  the  distinguished  ladies 
who  preside  over  the  festival  and  distribute  the  prizes 
of  the   lotteries.      The    hall    is   full  of  young  ladies  in  the 


8o  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

most  beaufiful  toilettes,  present  to  see  and  be  seen.  They 
can  talk  freely  there  with  the  men  they  care  to  meet, 
while  the  mothers  and  aunts  keep  their  seats.  But  all 
conversations  are  subdued.  It  was  necessary  to  invite  the 
Governor-General  of  Poland,  the  strict  and  very  much 
dreaded  General  Gurko  and  his  wife,  a  lady  whose  exterior 
and  bearing  are  less  distinguished  than  her  position.  It 
is  the  popular  impression  that  Madam  Gurko,  plainly  enough 
the  least  popular  person  in  Poland,  who  with  womanly 
fanaticism  has  appropriated  to  herself  the  task  of  serving  the 
Russian  cause  by  all  means,  is  the  prime  mover  of  all  the 
measures  which  have  struck  a  blow  at  Polish  hopes  and 
interests  of  late  years. 

The  old  aristocrat,  Louis  Gorski,  called  Poland's  pope, 
the  most  strong-willed  representative  of  the  Catholic  party,  is 
the  giver  of  the  festival,  and  as  such  has  to  offer  his  arm  to 
Madam  Gurko  to  take  her  round  the  room.  No  one  greets 
her  ;  all  speak  in  an  undertone  or  turn  their  backs.  Behind 
them  come  the  Governor-General  and  Madam  Gorska.  Both 
couples  exchange  ceremonious  phrases  only  in  French. 
Gurko,  who  carries  himself  very  gallantly,  is  a  man  of 
medium  height,  of  strong  frame,  with  thin  hair,  a  large  fan- 
shaped  beard  sprinkled  with  grey,  a  slightly  reddish  nose  ; 
the  expression  of  his  countenance  does  not  evince  the  bold- 
ness and  celerity  which  have  been  his  characteristics  as  a 
general.  He  looks  more  fitted  to  command  officers  than 
to  rule  a  people. 

Or  take  a  soiree  at  the  house  of  one  of  the  leaders  of 
the  aristocratic  party.  The  names  of  the  most  renowned 
families  of  Poland  are  represented.  Here  sits  a  Countess 
Plater,  niece  of  the  celebrated  Emilia ;  here  a  Countess 
Krasinska,  married  to  a  relative  of  the  poet,  both  liberal 
and  patriotic  to  excess  ;  here  a  Countess  Ostrowska  who 
is  considered  the  most  beautiful  woman  in  Poland.  We 
might  believe  that  the  Poles  would  feel  themselves  here 
within  closed  doors  as  free  as  possible  ;  but  if  a  foreigner 
says  too  bold  a  word,  one  of  the  young  men  of  the  family 
touches  him  on  the  shoulder  and  whispers,  "  Not  so  loud ! 
On  the  chair  which  is  back  to  back  with  yours  sits  Count 


THE    "TOMBOLA"  8i 

Tolstoi,  the  minister  of  police,  whom  my  uncle  has  been 
obliged  to  invite." 

Or  take  a  public  masquerade.  The  largest,  which  is 
given  in  carnival  time,  has  the  whole  of  the  theatre  at  its 
disposal.  It  is  combined  with  a  lottery,  the  profits  of  which 
go  to  the  theatre  for  a  pension  fund,  and  its  name, 
"  Tombola,"  is  derived  therefrom.  It  opens  at  midnight ; 
all  the  ladies  are  wrapped  up  tightly  in  dominoes  and 
impenetrably  masked,  and  the  masks  are  not  taken  off, 
while  the  gentlemen  are  not  allowed  to  wear  either  masks 
or  costumes,  but  come  in  evening  dress. 

This  form  of  masquerade  is  very  old  here.  E.  A.  T. 
Hoffmann,  more  than  eighty  years  ago,  described  it  as  a 
jubilant  and  brilliant  festival  in  the  pleasure-loving  Warsaw 
of  his  time. 

The  piquancy  of  the  arrangement  is  that  the  ladies  can 
say  what  they  will  to  the  gentlemen  ;  can  attack  them,  show 
themselves  conversant  with  their  secrets,  without  letting 
themselves  be  known.  The  chief  pleasure  it  affords  is  the 
facility  it  offers  to  lovers  of  meeting  one  another  and  dis- 
appearing together.  If  a  man  is  very  well  known,  he  is 
accosted  and  taken  to  task  by  scores  of  ladies  in  the  hall 
without  being  able  to  retort.  A  lady  comes,  takes  his  arm, 
and  walks  off  with  him  till  another  comes  and  takes  him 
from  her. 

There  are  two  or  three  thousand  people  present  and  the 
crowd  is  great ;  but  there  is  not  the  least  trace  of  joviality. 
There  is  neither  music  nor  song  nor  laughter  nor  loud  con- 
versation. If  this  is  a  love-masque,  it  bears  a  striking  likeness 
to  a  funeral,  or,  more  exactly,  several  funerals,  different 
funeral  processions  which  move  silently  past  each  other  in 
the  spacious  rooms. 

Wherever  you  are  the  oppression  is  felt. 

I  recall  a  grand  breakfast  at  the  house  of  one  of  the 
recognised  leaders  of  democratic  youth.  There  were  demo- 
crats and  free-thinkers  present,  men  who  had  the  tradi- 
tions of  1863  far  behind  them.  The  most  characteristic 
thing  about  them  is,  that  they  are  men  who  hardly  have 
an    ideal   which   they   expect  to    be   realised    before    many 

F 


82  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

hundred  years.  Otherwise  they  are  heterogeneous  enough, 
controversialists,  dissatisfied,  independent  thinkers,  or  mere 
admirers  and  echoes,  yet  almost  all  of  good  courage 
in  so  far  as  they  are  persuaded  that  the  world  can  be  re- 
formed, that  it  is  only  necessary  to  set  about  it  the  right 
way.  Among  them  we  may  note  some  aristocrat,  erstwhile 
in  debt,  then  richly  married,  who  in  his  quiet  way  is 
as  radical  as  any  of  them,  some  gaunt  figure  with  dis- 
orderly beard  and  hair  hanging  down  over  the  eyes,  just 
returned  for  the  fifth  time  from  a  Russian  fortress  in  the 
Ural  mountains,  where  he  usually  does  penance  for  his 
socialist  sympathies  for  several  months  at  a  time.  Here, 
as  everywhere  in  this  quiet  land,  a  general  conversation 
is  an  unknown  thing  ;  conversation  is  carried  on  with 
subdued  voices  in  small  groups.  And  in  whatever  direction 
the  conversation  drifts,  you  always  stumble  as  if  against 
a  wall  upon  innumerable  obstacles  and  hindrances,  which 
every  kind  of  attempt  to  achieve  some  human  object  invariably 
encounters  in  this  land.  "  Naturally  you  are  right,"  says 
the  host  to  the  foreigner.  "  We  really  have  neither  democratic 
nor  any  other  politics  whatsoever  in  this  country,  but  we 
have  reflections  of  what  are  so  called  in  Europe  " — a  remark  as 
exact  as  it  was  hopeless. 

The  same  thing  strikes  one  under  a  slightly  different 
aspect  in  the  peculiarly  intelligent  Bohemia,  which  does  not 
trouble  itself  about  politics,  but  lives  wholly  in  studies  and 
art.  Here  we  are  (intellectually  speaking)  in  the  land  of  the 
extreme  left.  I  hardly  met  a  more  interesting  circle  in  Poland 
than  that  which  I  found  collected  in  the  house  of  the  art 
critic,  Antoni  Sygietinski,  who,  with  the  highly  gifted  artist 
Witkiewicz,  unfortunately  a  great  invalid,  represents  artistic 
socialism  in  Poland. 

Sygietinski  is  a  slender,  handsome  young  man,  with  a  long 
red  beard  and  bright,  enthusiastic  eyes.  Common  art  sym- 
pathies have  brought  him  and  his  Polish  and  foreign 
colleagues  together.  In  Swientochowski's  circle  one  day  a 
foreigner  stood  alone  in  his  unfavourable  judgment  on  the 
Polish  art  of  painting  of  the  present  day.  The  conversation 
was  somewhat  as  follows  :  "  Your  art  is  wholly  on  the  wrong 


POLISH    ARTISTS  83 

road.  It  loses  sight  of  life.  You  paint  allegories  or  knightly 
spectacles.  Every  other  picture  at  your  exhibitions  is  the 
closing  tableau  of  a  five-act  play  just  before  the  curtain  falls. 
Your  great  deceased  idealist,  Grottger,  was  a  poet,not  a  painter. 
Your  great  living  master,  Matejko,  is  a  near-sighted  psycho- 
logist, not  a  painter.  The  picture  which  took  the  prize  at 
the  exhibition  this  year,  a  Catholic  allegory  with  angels  at 
the  bedside  of  a  sick  person,  is  a  horror."  Some  one  asked, 
"  Is  there  then  in  your  opinion  absolutely  nothing  which  is 
good  for  anything  ?  "  The  foreigner  answered,  "  Horowitz's 
portraits  and  Witkiewicz's  paintings  ;  but  the  best  thing  I  have 
seen  is  certainly  an  album  with  drawings  by  the  brothers 
Gierymski.  The  best  of  these  well  over  with  talent  ;  one  sees 
a  study  of  Nature  in  them  and  the  perception  of  an  artist. 
They  have  been  seen  and  felt,  a  praise  one  can  rarely  give  to 
modern  Polish  art."  A  tall  man  behind  him  clapped  his 
hands ;  it  was  the  man  who  had  published  the  album  and 
written  the  text  for  it,  Sygietinski. 

So  little  has  the  art  of  the  brothers  Gierymski  been 
understood  in  their  native  land  that  the  publisher,  an 
enthusiast  in  modern  art,  lost  8000  rubles  on  this  album. 
At  last  he  publicly  offered  to  give  it  for  nothing  to  the  sub- 
scribers to  the  weekly  paper  Wedrowiec,  but  the  majority 
of  them  did  not  even  care  to  fetch  it. 

The  circle  which  has  formed  about  the  journal  just 
named,  unfortunately  a  publication  hardly  destined  to  long 
life,  has,  as  its  leading  power,  the  energetic  artist  Witkiewicz, 
who  comprehends  characterisation  as  few  do.  It  consists 
further  of  young  doctors,  engineers,  literary  historians,  novelists 
like  Prus,  gifted  mechanics  (a  smith,  perhaps  the  most  subtle 
student  of  literature  in  Poland),  a  number  of  painters, 
musicians,  amateurs — representatives  of  refined  radicalism. 

Swientochowski's  group  is  antiquated  in  its  views  of  art, 
in  spite  of  its  lofty  culture.  The  men  who  belong  to  it  have 
admirable  collections  of  books,  but  pictures  on  their  walls 
which  a  Parisian  concierge  would  despise.  Swientochowski 
even  writes  old-fashioned  didactic  dramas  like  Elvia  or 
Antea.  The  younger  men  who  write  for  Wedrowiec  or  design 
for  it,  live  in  rooms  without  furniture,  but  with  magnificent 


84  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

drawings  and  paintings  on  the  wall.  They  are  modern  not 
only  in  their  mode  of  thought,  but  in  sight  and  sense. 
They  are  wild  birds,  and  since  birds  of  a  feather  flock 
together,  significantly  enough,  the  one  among  them  who 
wields  the  most  spirited  pen  is  married  to  a  remarkably 
beautiful  wild  Indian  girl  from  South  America.  She  is 
adapted  to  Poland  in  so  far  as  it  has  been  found  impossible 
to  teach  her  any  idea  of  money  or  its  value. 

In  this  circle  Bohemian  freedom  rules,  a  puff  of  real 
intellectual  freedom  which  fills  the  lungs ;  but  it  fills  them 
in  complete  silence,  making  as  little  noise  as  possible.  Here 
also  an  invisible  pressure  descends  from  above.  Here  also 
an  everlasting  damper  is  laid  upon  the  spirit — a  damper  of 
seriousness,  of  melancholy,  a  quiet  despair  of  ever  being 
able  to  accomplish  any  good  in  life.  Art  and  ideas  are  used 
as  a  means  of  forgetfulness.  And  all  these  young  men,  what- 
ever they  are — writers,  journalists,  draughtsmen,  physicians, 
engineers,  &c. — must,  wholly  apart  from  the  contest  for  bread, 
daily  fight  a  double  battle,  receiving  ideas  from  the  surround- 
ing world  of  Europe  and  imparting  those  ideas  to  their  own 
world. 


THE  CENSORSHIP—DIFFICULTIES  IN  OBTAINING 
PERMISSION  TO  DELIVER  LECTURES 

Going  from  the  Theatre  Square  in  Warsaw  along  the  Miodowa 
Street,  at  No.  7  on  the  left  there  is  a  house,  over  the  door  of 
which  in  Russian  letters  appear  the  words,  "Censorship  Com- 
mittee." Across  the  yard  to  the  right  you  enter  through  a 
narrow  street  door,  and  as  in  a  post-office  you  see  immense 
piles  of  newspapers  and  books  in  wrappers  lying  in  heaps. 
It  is  the  day's  mail. 

Every  single  newspaper  which  comes  is  taken  out  of  its 
wrapper  and  examined  ;  everything  displeasing  to  the 
authorities  is  blackened  over.  Every  book  is  opened  and 
the  leaves  examined.  Consequently  there  is  no  regular 
time  for  the  arrival  of  this  kind  of  mail.  Sometimes  three 
or  four  newspapers  are  received  at  once,  and  then  for  four 
or  five  days  not  one. 

In  another  room  the  native  newspapers  are  examined. 
On  account  of  the  conditions  of  censorship  they  are  almost 
all  evening  papers.  None  the  less  are  they  unable  to  make 
use  of  the  foreign  mail  of  the  day,  which  arrives  from  Berlin 
in  the  afternoon.  They  are  generally  poor.  With  one 
exception  they  are  all  assisted  by  private  contributions. 
Their  subscription  list  seldom  rises  to  more  than  fifteen 
hundred.  The  professional  journalists  are  compelled  to 
write  for  four  or  five  different  papers  on  the  same  subject 
in  order  to  live  by  their  pens. 

At  eleven  o'clock  all  the  proof  sheets  go  to  the  censor. 
The  censors  correct  them  according  to  their  pleasure  and 
caprice,  their  severity  or  indulgence  depending  very  much  on 
whether  they  have  personal  animosity  towards  the  writer  or 
not,  whether  they  hope  to  obtain  concessions  from  him, 
and  whether  they  have  been  bribed  or  not. 

8s 


86  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Almost  all  articles  in  which  anything  is  really  said 
are  therefore  not  intended  to  be  understood  at  the  first 
reading.  The  language  is  abstract,  vague,  of  doubtful 
meaning.  The  whole  public  is  taught  to  read  between  the 
lines.  Almost  all  the  feuilletons  are  allegories  ;  they  say  one 
thing  and  express  another.  Since  words  such  as  "  freedom  " 
or  "  fatherland  "  are  always  prohibited,  it  is  natural  that  cir- 
cumlocutions should  be  used. 

At  four  o'clock  the  proofs  are  returned  to  the  offices  of 
the  newspapers.  The  matter  erased  has  to  be  replaced 
by  articles  in  reserve,  which  have  been  through  the  censor- 
ship in  season  and  are  lying  ready  for  use  to  fill  the 
gaps. 

In  another  place  again  all  foreign  books  are  examined  to 
see  whether  they  ought  to  be  offered  for  sale  in  the  book- 
shops or  not.  They  allow  a  variety  of  natural  science — 
Darwin,  Haeckel — even  in  translations  ;  on  the  other  hand, 
little  history.  The  extremely  conservative  Polish  historian, 
Szujski,  is  wholly  forbidden,  even  in  German,  because  he 
writes  on  Polish  topics. 

Of  course  all  books  published  in  the  country  itself 
are  scrutinised  with  the  greatest  strictness.  Even  the  classics 
of  antiquity  are  examined.  It  has  happened  that  the  Roman 
verse  nee  timeo  censores  futuros  has  been  struck  out  because  it 
was  translated :  I  do  not  fear  the  censors  of  the  future  (the 
meaning  is,  the  judgment  of  the  future).  In  a  play  dealing 
with  the  past  of  Poland  they  struck  out  before  Jagiello  the 
word  King  of  Poland,  and  substituted  Duke,  although  thei~e 
never  have  been  dukes  of  Poland.  Nay,  even  the  cookery 
books  are  subjected  to  the  censorship,  and  are  corrected  with 
such  puerility  that  lately  the  words  "  to  be  boiled  over  a  free 
fire  "  were  erased  because  the  word  free  was  used. 

Manuscripts  for  public  lectures,  the  texts-,  for  recitations, 
the  songs  for  concerts,  are  examined  in  another  place.  Even 
if  a  song  belongs  to  a  collection  of  poems,  which  has  passed 
the  censor  ten  times  in  different  editions,  it  cannot  be  sung 
at  an  evening  entertainment  without  having  been  examined 
anew. 

It  happened   this   winter  that  an   actress,  who,  recalled 


DIFFICULTIES    OF    A    LECTURER  87 

on  such  an  occasion,  recited  a  little  harmless  poem  about 
a  mother  and  her  child,  which  was  not  on  the  programme, 
was  fined  no  less  than  a  hundred  rubles. 

This  winter  I  had  occasion  to  study  the  censor  very 
closely.  In  return  for  the  kindness  which  had  been  shown 
to  me  the  year  before  in  Warsaw,  I  had  promised  to  return, 
and  to  speak  on  the  Polish  literature  of  this  century,  which 
is  treated  almost  exclusively  as  philology  by  the  critics  of 
the  country. 

The  task  was  extremely  difficult  for  many  reasons. 
There  was  in  the  first  place  the  intrinsic  difficulty  of  telling 
the  Polish  people  something  new  about  a  literature  which 
they  knew  better  than  I.  Then  there  were  the  external 
difficulties.  At  the  University  of  Warsaw  it  is  absolutely 
forbidden  to  speak  of  the  history  or  literature  of  Poland 
after  the  year  1500.  Not  even  in  Russian,  not  even  in 
the  Russian  spirit  must  the  subject  be  dealt  with.  And  in 
addition  to  this,  the  good  literature  of  the  whole  of  this 
century  is  patriotic  in  the  extreme,  thoroughly  hostile  to 
the  Russian  rule,  and  forbidden  on  that  account.  How 
should  I  manage  to  discuss  Mickiewicz's  Dziady,  in  which 
political  prison  life  in  Wilna  is  described,  or  Slowacki's 
Kordjan,  which  treats  of  an  attempt  to  assassinate  the  Tzar 
Nicholas,  or  Krasinski's  whole  works,  not  to  speak  of  the 
lyrics  of  war  and  rebellion  ;  how,  on  the  other  hand,  could  I 
omit  to  speak  of  all  these  ? 

First  and  foremost  it  was  necessary  to  get  permission  to 
speak  at  all  on  this  subject.  There  was  only  one  thing 
to  depend  on — the  dislike  of  the  persons  in  authority  to  be 
regarded  as  barbarians  by  Europe. 

In  the  middle  of  January  I  sought  permission  from 
Count  Tolstoi,  the  head  of  the  police,  to  deliver  lectures 
for  a  charitable  object.  The  answer  came  in  the  middle 
of  February.  I  was  permitted  to  lecture  three  times  in 
Russian  February  (the  1st  of  which  answers  to  our  13th). 
I  then  drove  immediately  to  the  President  of  the  Censors 
and  presented  my  request,  basing  it  on  the  invitation  which 
had  been  given  me  the  year  before  in  Warsaw:  "Come 
again  and  speak  about  our  own  literature." — The  President : 


88  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

"  Ah  !  you  wish  to  treat  of  Russian  literature." — "  Not  this 
time,  your  Excellency ;  you  know  that  the  people  here 
generally  speak  Polish,  and  are  most  interested  in  what  is 
written  in  that  language." — "  In  what  language  will  you 
speak?" — "In  French." — "That  is  well;  you  can  say  a 
great  deal  thus.  You  address  yourself  to  good  society. 
It  would  be  another  affair  if  you  wished  to  speak  in 
German  ;  there  are  so  many  uncultured,  hot-headed  persons 
who  understand  German."  His  Excellency  promised  me 
speedy  permission,  and  kept  his  word. 

It  was  only  then  that  I  could  begin  my  composition,  and 
it  progressed  extremely  slowly. 

There  were  days  when  in  spite  of  all  my  diligence  I 
wrote  almost  nothing,  days,  when  I  strove  in  vain  to  find 
expressions  with  double  meaning,  images,  in  themselves 
indistinct,  which  could  be  understood  by  the  audience, 
circumlocutions,  which  could  be  seen  through  and  yet 
would  be  unassailable.  Fortunately  this  Polish  people, 
half  oriental,  prefer  the  picturesque  to  the  purely  rational 
style,  being  in  this  point  as  in  many  others,  the  opposite 
of  the  French. 

Gradually  I  acquired  practice  in  the  rebus  style,  and 
wrote  so  that  by  an  accent  or  a  pause  I  could  give  a 
sentence  a  new  and  more  living  character ;  I  became  expert 
in  hints  and  implications. 

At  last  I  had  two  copies  of  my  first  lecture  ready  in 
French  and  one  in  Russian  for  the  curator  of  the  Uni- 
versity. I  furnished  them  with  the  necessary  stamps,  drove 
with  the  first  lecture  to  the  President  of  the  Censorship,  and 
asked  that  the  censor  might  begin.  I  had  taken  a  priest 
with  me — it  is  always  good  to  have  a  priest  with  you,  he  has 
friends  everywhere,  in  Poland  especially,  among  the  Polish 
subordinates  of  the  offices.  There  was  nothing  in  the  way. 
But  as  bad  luck  would  have  it,  Apuchtin  refused  to  begin  on 
the  Russian  text  till  he  had  all  the  lectures. 

This  was  bad  ;  for  I  wished  to  see  by  what  was  erased 
in  my  first  lecture  what  I  might  venture  upon  in  the  next. 

Since  it  was  now  plain  that  the  Russian  February  would 
be  at  an  end  before  I  could  get  the  lectures  back  from  the 


*     DIFFICULTIES    OF    A    LECTURER  89 

censor,  and  since  I  also  saw  that  three  lectures  would  not  be 
enough  for  the  subject,  even  if  I  spoke  for  two  hours  each 
time,  I  sought  to  obtain  from  the  chief  of  the  police  per- 
mission to  deliver  four  lectures  instead  of  three,  and  asked  to 
have  my  time  extended  beyond  February. 

The  number  four  did  not  meet  with  approval. — "  Why 
not  ?  "  was  then  asked. — The  answer  was  :  "  Because  three 
lectures  are  an  entertainment;  four  are  a  course  of  instruction." 
They  were  afraid,  it  seemed,  that  under  the  form  of  lectures 
for  charity,  a  sort  of  Polish  university  should  be  established 
in  the  town  hall,  in  which  one  cycle  of  lectures  should  in 
some  way  or  other  be  continued  in  the  next. 

The  matter  of  the  prolongation  of  the  time  was  then 
debated.  Why  do  you  not  lecture  in  February  ?  It  is 
your  fault  if  you  do  not  do  it. — I  complained  of  the 
difificulties  with  the  censor. — Well,  well,  then  there  was  this 
to  be  done  ;  give  a  written  petition  to  the  chief  of  police  ;  he 
would  send  it  to  Apuchtin,  he  would  forward  it  to  General 
Gurko  ;  the  latter  would  possibly  inquire  at  St.  Petersburg 
if  the  request  could  be  granted,  and  the  reply  would  come 
back  through  the  same  channels  in  reversed  order. — When 
could  the  answer  be  expected  ? — Oh,  in  five  weeks. — 
But  then  March  will  be  over,  and  by  the  ist  of  April 
(Russian  style)  I  must  be  in  Copenhagen. — Well,  that  was 
my  affair,  and  did  not  concern  the  authorities. 

Plainly  enough  they  were  not  very  anxious  to  have 
lectures  on  Polish  national  literature  delivered  in  Warsaw. 

At  this  time  I  received  my  first  lecture  back  from  the 
censor.  They  had  been  very  thorough.  The  conclusion, 
several  pages,  was  struck  out,  and  in  various  places  the 
erasures  were  numerous.  Even  a  well-known  quotation 
from  Schiller,  "the  living  is  right,"  was  struck  out.  Words 
like  resignation  or  tristesse,  used  as  characteristic  of  Polish 
literature,  were  blotted  out.  In  one  place  where  I  had 
spoken  of  the  Catholic  piety  of  the  poets  these  words  were 
erased.  In  another  place  where  I  had  spoken  of  the  life 
which  is  described  in  the  most  celebrated  work  of  Mickiewicz, 
the  red  pencil  had  gone  over  these  words :  "  The  Lithuanian 
forest,  the    natural   setting  of  this  life;"  and  in,    "For  the 


90  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

first  time,  since  the  partition  of  the  kingdom,"  the  last  phrase 
was  obliterated. 

This  was  discouraging  in  so  far  as  I  saw  that  there  would 
not  be  anything  left  of  the  second  lecture,  which  was  the 
boldest.  I  then  made  the  third  almost  colourless  in  political, 
religious  and  social  respects,  intending,  to  the  best  of  my 
ability,  to  atone  for  the  weakness  by  a  stronger  colouring  in 
delivery  and  style. 

Then  it  happened  that  my  censor — the  only  one  who  was 
hated  among  the  censors  of  Warsaw — suddenly  died.  They 
found  my  last  two  lectures,  uncorrected,  under  his  pillow. 
They  were  as  grateful  to  me  in  Warsaw  as  if  a  causal  con- 
nection had  been  found  between  this  last-named  fact  and  his 
disappearance  from  his  earthly  vocations  as  judge. 

Now  everything  looked  brighter.  There  was  hope  of  a 
milder  treatment.  In  order  to  shorten  the  process  I  deter- 
mined to  make  a  direct  appeal  to  the  Governor-General. 
The  hero  of  Tirnowa  and  the  Pass  of  Shipka  could  not  be 
so  narrow-minded  as  subordinate  police  officers  and  sub- 
ordinate censors.  I  drove  to  the  castle  on  Gurko's  audience 
day.  It  is  the  old  royal  palace  on  the  Vistula,  unchanged 
externally,  but  plundered  of  all  its  objects  of  art. 

In  the  ante  -  room,  an  oblong  hall,  several  hundred 
petitioners  sat  in  a  row  with  petitions.  In  an  inner  hall, 
spacious  and  empty,  with  large  mirrors  and  red  furniture,  the 
notabilities  of  the  city,  old  senators,  old  generals,  the  President 
of  the  Censors,  the  President  of  the  theatre,  waiting  their 
turn,  walked  up  and  down  in  their  uniforms.  In  the  middle 
of  the  hall  stood  a  young  Russian  cavalry  officer,  Gurko's 
adjutant,  tall  and  good-looking,  who  spoke  French  fluently 
with  the  other  Russians,  but  with  a  strong  Russian  accent. 
He  struck  his  heels  together  so  that  the  spurs  jingled, 
practised  a  dancing  step,  and  seemed  to  be  dreaming  of 
court  balls  at  St.  Petersburg.  I  made  my  request  for  an 
audience  to  him.  I  met  with  an  unqualified  refusal. 
The  audience  time  was  from  one  o'clock  and  it  was  now  five 
minutes  past  one.  On  my  suggestion  that  I  did  not  at  all 
expect  to  be  the  first  to  be  admitted,  the  answer  was  that 
the  list  of  those  seeking  an  audience  was  closed  when  the 


DIFFICULTIES    OF    A    LECTURER  91 

clock  struck  one,  and  sent  in  to  the  Governor  -  General. 
Nevertheless,  as  I  declared  I  would  not  go,  but  was  fully 
determined,  as  I  was,  to  find  my  way  to  General  Gurko,  I  quietly 
took  a  seat  on  a  sofa  and  waited.  A  Pole  with  a  great  star 
on  came  to  me  and  asked  if  I  was  possibly  on  the  list  of 
petitioners,  meaning  on  the  list  of  the  poor  petitioners  in 
the  ante-room.  When  I  replied  no,  he  promised  to  put  me 
on  the  top  of  this  list.  Then  the  General,  as  soon  as  he  had 
got  through  the  private  audiences,  and  came  out  of  his 
apartment,  would  turn  first  to  me. 

I  was  obliged  to  wait  more  than  three  hours.  Then  the 
General  came  with  his  staff.  "  You  wish  to  speak  with  me  ? 
Your  business  ? " — -I  presented  my  request  for  liberty  to 
speak  in  March,  since  February  was  almost  over. — "Mais 
cest  tout  simple." — I  declared  that  I  had  met  with  obstacles 
which  were  insurmountable  for  me. — "  Who  forbids  you 
then  ?  " — "  Your  Excellency,  there  is  no  need  of  any  pro- 
hibition. But  I  need  a  permission,  and  they  do  not  give 
it  to  me." — "Very  well,  I  allow  it." — "But  they  will  not 
believe  me  unless  I  bring  a  written  word  from  your  Excell- 
ency. I  have  a  written  petition  here  addressed  to  you."  He 
took  the  letter  and  my  pencil  and  wrote  across  the  paper, 
"  Ordered.    Gurko." 

The  principal  difficulty  was  thus  happily  removed.  But 
still  it  was  impossible  to  advertise  the  lectures,  as  the  Russian 
text  had  not  yet  been  returned  from  Apuchtin. 

Twice  I  personally  sought  to  obtain  an  interview  with 
him.  Each  time  I  received  the  answer  from  his  subordinate, 
that  M.  Apuchtin  could  not  receive  me,  but  that  he  himself 
was  reading  my  lectures  with  the  greatest  interest — an  interest 
I  would  very  gladly  have  dispensed  with,  and  which  seemed 
to  augur  ill. 

At  last  I  got  them  back.  Nothing  was  erased.  Only  by 
a  few  pencil  marks  on  the  margin  my  attention  was  called  to 
certain  phrases  where  the  manner  of  expression  was  offensive 
to  a  delicate  Russian  national  feeling,  as,  for  instance,  where 
I  had  said  that  Mickiewicz  had  had  an  influence  on  Lamen- 
nais  and  Pushkin  among  foreign  authors.  These  marks 
indicated  a  keen  and  cultured  reader,  and   I  had  to  admit 


92  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

that  he  had  been  content  to  point  at  what  he  might  have 
struck  out  and  forbidden. 

Now  only  the  permission  of  the  chief  of  police,  Count 
Tolstoi,  was  wanting  to  the  posting  of  the  notices.  They 
advertise  lectures  as  they  do  the  theatrical  performances  by 
posters,  not  by  notices  in  the  papers. 

But  it  proved  unnecessary  to  put  up  the  posters.  For 
with  so  much  excitement  and  interest  had  the  city  followed 
my  exertions  to  get  permission  to  deliver  lectures  on  Polish 
literature,  that  as  soon  as  the  report  of  Apuchtin's  permission 
got  abroad,  all  the  tickets,  3600  in  number  (for  the  three 
lectures),  were  sold  in  a  few  hours,  so  that  the  permission 
to  post  notices,  which  came  in  the  forenoon,  was  superfluous. 


VI 

HOW  ONE  WRITES  AND  SPEAKS  UNDER  A 
CENSORSHIP 

To  give  an  idea  of  how  writing  and  speaking  are  done  under 
a  censorship,  here  are  some  examples  taken  from  my  lectures. 

I  had  to  make  it  plain  to  my  hearers  that  I  well  under- 
stood the  contents  of  certain  books,  even  if  I  might  not 
allude  to  them  directly.  For  instance,  it  was  impossible  to 
quote  the  scene  in  Dziady  where  the  martyrdom  of  Poland 
is  compared  to  that  of  the  Crucifixion,  but  I  could  refer  to  it. 
I  therefore  spoke  as  follows  in  my  introduction : — 

"You  may  learn  from  me  how  your  literature  of  the  first 
half  of  this  century  is  reflected  in  the  mind  of  a  European 
reader ;  you  may  learn  what  impression  of  your  intellectual 
life  a  favourably  disposed  foreigner  receives. 

"  For  a  favourably  disposed  foreigner  I  am.  No  merely 
artistic  or  intellectual  interest,  but  a  broader  human  sympathy 
has  drawn  me  to  this  subject.  There  is  in  it  something 
which  not  only  occupies  but  lays  hold  of  the  mind ;  the 
modern  literature  of  Poland  excites  the  emotions  in  a  higher 
degree  than  that  of  most  other  nations.  There  is  something 
reserved,  not  easily  penetrable  in  it.  Or  rather,  it  is  at  once 
closed  and  open,  according  to  the  point  of  view  at  which 
one  places  oneself.  It  reminds  us  in  this  respect  of  the 
celebrated  painting  by  Gabriel  Max,  The  Handkerchief  of 
Veronica,  a  painting  I  do  not  value  highly  artistically,  for  it  is 
a  piece  of  artifice,  not  a  work  of  art,  but  which  well  illustrates 
what  I  mean.  At  the  first  glance  the  countenance  seems  to 
be  that  of  a  corpse  ;  the  eyes  are  tightly  shut,  the  expression 
lifeless.  But  when  you  reach  the  right  point  of  view  the 
face  suddenly  assumes  life,  the  eyes  open  and  turn  a 
sorrowful  and  solemn  gaze  on  the  spectator." 

Direct  mention  of  the  various  Polish  attempts  at  insur- 


94  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

rection  was  impossible.  I  could  only  express  my  meaning 
by  characterising  in  expressions  as  general  as  possible 
mental  conditions  after  great  public  misfortunes  "  such  as 
famine,  floods,  or  unsuccessful  revolution."  It  was  equally  im- 
possible in  commenting  on  Slowacki's  famous  poem,  Kr6l 
Duchf  to  say  directly  :  "  The  cruelty  which  is  here  described 
was  actually  perpetrated  by  Ivan  the  Terrible."  I  chose  this 
circumlocution  :  "  When  in  Krdl  Duch  the  principal  character 
narrates  how  with  his  sword  he  nailed  the  foot  of  the  old 
minstrel  to  the  earth,  and  how  the  latter  continued  to  deliver 
his  message  unperturbed,  it  recalls  an  anecdote  of  the  court 
of  Ivan  the  Terrible."  In  this  form  the  sentence  passed  the 
censor  for  the  lecture,  and  the  censor  for  its  publication  as  a 
feuilleton  in  the  Gazeta  Polska,  but  it  was,  however,  struck  out 
later  by  another  censor  from  the  printed  book. 

In  Mickiewicz's  Dziady,  in  Conrad's  improvisation,  there 
is  a  passage  where  the  hero  in  despair  complains  to  God  of 
the  indifference  with  which  He  lets  him  suffer ;  the  most 
effective  line  in  it  is  this  :  Thou  art  not  the  father  of  the  worlds 
hut  its — Tzar  !  I  required  this  line  in  my  lecture,  and  wanted 
to  suggest  it.  To  analyse  the  work  was  impossible,  even  to 
name  it  difficult.  On  the  other  hand,  it  seemed  feasible  to 
mention  Conrad's  name  without  saying  in  which  play 
he  appeared,  and  to  quote  the  passage  with  a  slight  change. 
I  could  certainly  depend  on  an  exceedingly  slight  knowledge 
of  Polish  literature  in  the  censor. 

I  chose,  therefore,  to  speak  of  the  different  attitudes  of 
Polish  authors  as  to  the  problem  of  cognition,  and  insinuated 
this  in  connection  therewith.  "And  as  the  savages  of 
antiquity,  when  they  were  angry  with  their  gods,  discharged 
an  arrow  into  the  vault  of  the  heavens,  so  Conrad  flings  this 
taunt  out  into  the  universe,  which  he  says  shall  resound  from 
generation  to  generation  :  Thou  God !  Thou  art  not  the  Father 
of  the  world,  but  its  .   .   ." 

Here  I  made  a  pause  of  some  seconds,  during  which 
a  shudder  literally  ran  through  the  closely  packed  hall. 
Then  came  the  word  tyrant,  and  they  drew  breath  and 
looked  at  one  another.  No  one  moved  a  hand.  After 
such    passages   a   deathly  silence   prevails    in   order    not   to 


THE    CENSORSHIP  95 

compromise  the  speaker.  They  vigorously  applaud  some 
innocent  comparison  or  other  a  few  minutes  later,  or  they 
reserve  the  most  hearty  applause  to  the  close,  when  no  one 
can  determine  what  it  is  which  has  specially  called  forth  the 
storm  of  approval.  The  passage  belongs  to  those  which  were 
struck  out  in  the  censorship  subsequent  to  the  lectures  and 
the  first  printing  in  the  feuilleton.  This  examination  lasted 
seven  months j  and  left  the  little  work  extremely  mutilated. 

Here  is  a  last  example  of  what  the  censor,  who  probably 
was  not  very  familiar  with  Shakespeare,  or  who  had  no  sense 
for  the  symbolic,  allowed  to  be  said.  The  passage  was  about 
the  poets  among  Polish  emigrants.  I  compared  them  to 
Hamlet,  and  said  among  other  things  : — 

"  We  find  traits  of  Hamlet's  character  in  all  these  spirits  ; 
they  are  in  his  position  from  their  youth.  The  world  is 
out  of  joint,  and  it  must  be  set  right  by  their  weak  arms. 
They  feel,  like  Hamlet,  all  the  inner  fire  and  outward  weak- 
ness of  their  youth ;  high-born  as  they  are,  and  noble-minded 
as  they  are,  regarding  the  conditions  which  surround  them 
as  a  single  great  horror,  they  incline  at  once  to  day-dreams 
and  to  action,  to  musing  and  to  recklessness. 

"  Hamlet  saw  his  mother,  his  dear  mother,  whom  he  loved 
more  than  other  sons  love  theirs,  degraded  under  the  hand 
of  the  crowned  robber  and  murderer.  The  court,  which 
is  open  to  him,  frightens  him,  just  as  the  court  in  Krasinski's 
Temptation  (a  symbolical  representation  of  the  St.  Petersburg 
court)  frightens  the  young  man.  These  descendants  of 
Hamlet,  like  him,  allow  themselves  to  be  sent  away  to  a 
foreign  land.  When  they  speak,  they  dissemble  as  he  does, 
clothe  their  meaning  in  comparisons  and  allegories,  and  it 
is  true  of  them,  as  Hamlet  says  of  himself  to  Laertes : — 

"  Yet  have  I  something  in  me  dangerous 
Which  let  thy  wisdom  fear  ;  hold  off  thy  hand." 

Strangely  enough,  not  one  of  the  many  censorships  to 
which  these  lectures  were  submitted,  not  one  of  the  many 
which  preceded  their  delivery,  and  neither  of  the  two  new 
ones  which  examined  the  edition  in  newspaper  and  book 
form,  found  anything  to  object  to  in  this  passage. 


VII 

MENTAL  EFFECTS  OF  THE  SITUATION  ON  THE 

YOUNG 

An  important  result  of  the  censorship  in  Poland  is  the  con- 
stant disquiet  of  the  press  and  thereby  of  the  people.  As 
it  is  impossible  to  obtain  any  certainty  of  what  is  going  on 
in  the  country,  and  impracticable  to  impart  what  one  knows 
or  thinks  one  knows,  eternal  rumours  float  through  town 
and  country,  in  which  the  political  hopes  and  anxieties  of 
the  people  are  reflected.  At  one  time  it  is  reported  that 
this  or  that  high  official  has  been  recalled,  because  the 
government  itself  finds  the  pressure  too  severe  ;  men  believe 
that  they  are  going  to  breathe  a  more  liberal  air  ;  they  find 
in  the  most  accidental  negligences,  from  one  or  another  of 
the  authorities,  symptoms  that  for  the  future  they  will  wink 
at  much  that  has  been  forbidden.  Again,  it  is  reported  that 
the  severest  measures  are  in  preparation,  that  hitherto  un- 
known dangers  are  threatened.  Thus  the  people  are  con- 
stantly kept  in  a  state  of  feverish  agitation. 

It  will  easily  be  seen  how  greatly  such  perpetual  disquiet 
hampers  the  growth  and  development  of  the  intellectual  life. 
Only  the  exact  sciences  flourish.  Medicine  especially  stands 
high.  Dr.  Tytus  Chalubinski,  an  old  man,  upon  whose  face 
genius  has  stamped  itself,  has  long  been  regarded  as  the 
leading  physician  of  Poland.  Next  to  him  Baranowski  is  the 
most  esteemed.  Historical  and  political  literature  necessarily 
stand  somewhat  in  the  background.  At  present  Russian 
Poland  does  not  possess  any  historian  of  the  first  rank. 
Szujski,  who  died  recently,  is  the  most  important  writer  of 
later  historical  literature,  and  as  an  essayist  Julian  Klaczko, 
who  has  a  European  reputation,  holds  a  like  position.     Both 

of  them  lived  and  worked  in  Austria.     In  literary  history  a 

96 


CONFISCATION    OF    LAND  97 

sober  spirit  of  investigation  predominates.  Polish  writers  on 
such  subjects  approach  the  German  method  and  German 
style.  Poland's  leading  and  distinguished  literary  historian, 
Spasowicz,  who  is  also  the  most  renowned  advocate  of  the 
Russian  empire,  living  and  writing  in  Russia,  has  been 
obliged  to  exercise  a  prudence  in  everything  touching  upon 
politics,  which  has  made  his  chief  work,  The  History  of  Polish 
Literature^  less  interesting  than  it  otherwise  would  have  been. 
The  most  esteemed  critic.  Professor  Tarnowski  of  Cracow,  is 
an  academician  of  the  old  school,  of  a  romantic  turn  of  mind, 
whose  tendency  becomes  more  and  more  ultra-Catholic  with 
advancing  age.  Ultramontanism  in  Cracow  has  almost  as 
depressing  an  influence  as  the  government  tyranny  in  War- 
saw. And  when  Tarnowski  appears  as  a  lecturer  in  Warsaw 
he  can  only  secure  his  effects  by  a  purely  external  and 
formal  eloquence. 

It  is  a  general  superstition,  which  must  be  given  up,  that 
raw  external  means  of  power  are  powerless  to  crush  and 
break  down  national  spirit. 

The  censorship  is  indeed  the  most  intellectual  of  the 
brutal  means  the  authorities  use  for  that  purpose. 

A  less  intellectual  and  even  more  effective  means  is  con- 
fiscation. After  the  rebellion  of  1863  all  the  real  estate  of 
the  landed  proprietors  who  participated  in  it,  or  who  were 
suspected  of  having  given  it  sympathy  or  support,  was  confis- 
cated. I  know  a  man  of  a  princely  old  Lithuanian  family, 
who  possessed  a  princely  fortune,  and  who  now,  after  twenty 
years  in  Siberia,  is  reduced  to  a  little  situation  in  a  bank. 
I  know  a  lady  who  was  the  heiress  to  a  property  of  a  million 
rubles,  but  who  had  been  robbed  of  her  inheritance  because 
the  peasants  on  her  uncle's  estate  had  given  provisions  to 
bands  of  rebels. 

Even  the  confiscation  of  the  soil  is  naturally  not  of  final 
importance,  so  long  as  the  peasant  remains  on  it  and 
continues  Polish  in  his  ideas.  But  Russia  seeks  to  win  the 
peasant  in  every  way.  She  abolished  serfdom,  the  abolition 
of  which,  proclaimed  by  the  Poles  themselves  (in  the  consti- 
tution of  May  3,  1 791),  she  had  set  aside,  and  the  old  hatred 
of    the    peasants    towards    their    masters    has    been    richly 

G 


98  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

exploited.  And  when  the  floods  of  the  Vistula  desolate  the 
land,  Madam  Gurko  travels  about  the  country  distributing 
rubles  from  the  imperial  treasury  by  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands, to  the  peasants,  who  with  the  benefaction  receive  a 
recommendation  to  be  grateful  to  the  Tzar,  their  father — a 
recommendation  which  often  bears  fruit. 

Exile  to  Siberia  is  another  powerful  weapon.  There  is 
no  doubt  that  the  flower  of  a  whole  generation,  the  preceding 
Polish  generation,  almost  all  of  those  most  distinguished 
for  courage,  intellect,  and  enthusiasm,  died  there.  Those 
who  did  return,  have  often  lost  something  of  their  clearness 
of  vision.  They  have  not  infrequently  remained  at  the  point 
where  they  stood  when  they  left  Poland.  I  may  mention 
two  writers  as  examples,  both  on  the  editorial  staff  of  the 
Gazeta  Polska,  Haenckle,  who,  chained  with  four  others  to  an 
iron  bar,  was  compelled  to  travel  on  foot  to  Irkutsk  during 
two  winters  and  one  summer,  and  was  there  for  ten  years, 
and  Boguslawski,  who  was  there  for  the  same  length  of  time. 
They  are  clever  writers,  but  confirmed  romanticists  ;  modern 
men  they  will  never  be. 

And  the  terrible  uncertainty  of  the  law  is  in  itself  destruc- 
tive. A  few  weeks  since  a  young  man  returned  from  a  two 
years'  banishment.  His  offence  was  that  the  day  after 
Apuchtin  received  the  box  on  the  ear  from  the  angry  student 
already  spoken  of,  he  had  sent  twenty-five  rubles  to  a  news- 
paper for  a  charitable  object  with  the  words,  "  To  com- 
memorate a  happy  event."  It  did  him  no  good  that  it  could 
be  proved  that  his  brother  had  had  a  son  born  to  him  the  day 
before — they  would  not  believe  that  this  was  the  event  to 
which  he  had  referred — he  was  sent  away.  Physically  he 
had  suffered  nothing.  He  returned  as  so  many  Siberian 
exiles  do,  fresh  and  rosy  ;  but  he  had  become  prudent,  very 
conservative  in  all  his  utterances,  and  would  not  allow  himself 
to  criticise  his  sentence. 

When  the  well-known  Szymanowski,  poet  and  publisher 
of  the  Courier  JVarszavsky,  lay  on  his  death-bed  recently,  I 
visited  him.  He  told  me  of  the  fright  he  had  received  when 
a  short  time  before  some  one  had  rung  his  door-bell  in  the 
night.     He    was    reminded   of  the   night   ten  years   before, 


RUSSIANISING   INFLUENCES  99 

when  the  gendarmes  came,  forced  him  to  get  up,  and  carried 
him  away  in  a  sleigh.  He  did  not  know  of  what  he  was 
accused.  His  family  was  a  long  time  learning  his  place  of 
detention.  When  he  was  set  free  after  the  lapse  of  some 
months,  he  did  not  learn  what  was  his  offence,  and  has 
continued  ignorant  of  it  ever  since.  And  Szymanowski 
has  represented  the  most  peaceful  conservatism  throughout 
his  whole  life. 

Let  us  now  consider  the  psychical  influences  of  this 
general  condition  on  the  younger  generation.  It  has  now 
gone  so  far  in  Russian  Poland  that  many  a  young  jurist  or 
doctor  of  an  old  Polish  family  speaks  Russian  better  than 
Polish,  nay,  speaks  his  mother-tongue  with  a  foreign  accent. 
I  may  instance  this  case:  The  young  man  has  studied  in 
St.  Petersburg.  He  has  by  no  means  given  up  his  nation- 
ality, but  he  has  associated  and  been  compelled  to  associate 
with  Russians  as  comrades.  He  comes  back  to  Warsaw, 
where  no  Pole  ever  associates  with  a  Russian,  the  national- 
ities being  as  oil  and  water.  It  seems  unnatural  to  him  that 
his  mother  and  sisters  oppose  his  visiting  at  the  house  of  the 
Governor-General.  They  live  another  emotional  life,  speak 
another  language.  The  nerve  of  national  indignation  is 
blunted  in  him.  Besides,  there  are  practical  considerations. 
He  is  sure  that  if  he  makes  no  concessions  he  will  never 
get  even  a  subordinate  office  in  Poland,  never  be  able  to 
live  in  the  same  city  as  his  mother.  He  may  become  pro- 
cureur  in  Riga,  or  subordinate  magistrate  in  Kasan,  but  he 
will  never  get  a  position  in  Warsaw,  if  he  is  irreconcilable. 

The  suppression  of  the  language  is  also  effective.  Re- 
cently at  a  competition  for  the  prize  offered  by  a  private 
person  for  the  best  drama,  the  winner,  Koslowski,  attracted 
attention  by  the  purity  and  strength  of  his  diction.  General 
pride  and  joy  were  expressed  that  a  young  man  of  twenty- 
five  years,  educated  under  the  latest  school  regulations, 
should  write  such  beautiful  Polish,  Siowackt- Polish.  There  is 
a  pervading  fear  that  the  growing  generation  will  be  unable 
to  write  the  mother-tongue  in  its  purity. 

The  temptation  to  make  some  concessions  to  the  Russians 
is,  as  has  already  been  suggested,  very  great.     It  is,  moreover, 


100  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

often  difficult  to  draw  a  strict  line  between  Russians  and  Poles. 
Even  if  the  Russians  are  not  received  into  society,  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  exclude  individual  Poles  who  are  either 
really  subservient,  or  are  suspected  to  be  so.  The  Poles 
who  have  taken  office  sometimes  become  mere  officials, 
loyal  officials.  Of  many  an  one  who  would  like  to  pass  for 
a  Polish  patriot,  it  is  said  that  he  has  been  unsuccessful  in 
his  attempts  to  obtain  the  title  of  imperial  flunkey.  Some- 
times in  one  family  the  father  has  Polish  tendencies,  the  son 
is  politically  indifferent,  even  has  almost  Russian  tendencies. 
Now  and  then  one  whose  son  fell  as  a  hero  of  the  rebellion, 
is,  like  the  President  of  the  theatre,  Gudowski,  one  of  the 
supporters  of  the  throne. 

There  are  also  boundaries  which  passive  resistance 
cannot  pass.  As  the  theatre  is  the  last  place  in  which  Polish 
is  still  spoken,  the  dread  of  Russian  plays  on  the  national 
stage  is  very  great.  It  seems  then  simple  enough,  when  a 
Russian  company  comes,  not  only  for  all  the  Poles  to  remain 
at  home,  but  for  the  Polish  press  not  to  notice  the  perform- 
ances. Yet  it  is  not  so  simple.  Free  tickets  are  given  to 
all  the  Polish  students  and  officials,  and  they  are  compelled 
to  go.  Notices  of  these  performances  are  demanded  by  tiie 
censorship,  and  if  they  are  not  given — on  the  plea,  for  in- 
stance, that  no  one  on  the  editorial  staff  understands  Russian 
— then  great  obstacles  are  put  in  the  way  of  the  newspaper 
by  the  censors  ;  the  erasures  become  so  relentless  that  they 
must  give  way.  The  opposition  the  press  might  offer  is 
immediately  broken  down. 

A  dread  continually  broods  over  Russian  Poland,  that  the 
government  will  some  fine  day  close  the  theatre  in  Warsaw, 
and  that  the  government  will  order  the  newspapers  to  appear 
with  double  text,  Russian  and  Polish.  Then  they  must  soon 
surrender,  and  the  language  will  die  out. 

So  weak  has  unhappy  Poland  become  that  it  accounts 
itself  happy  when  it  finds  itself  not  wholly  forgotten. 
Poles  are  delighted  when  a  Polish  tenor  like  Mierczewinski 
attracts  attention — then,  at  least,  the  name  of  Poland  is  men- 
tioned. They  are  happy  when  a  man  with  the  Polish  name 
Rogoszynski  (comically  enough  his  real    name   is  Schulze) 


VITALITY   OF   THE   NATIONAL  IDEA         loi 

undertakes  a  voyage  of  discovery  in  Africa,  although  he  was 
not  in  a  position  to  take  possession  of  the  smallest  strip  of 
land  for  Poland — since  there  is  no  Poland — and  was  even 
arrested  and  taken  away  on  a  German  man-of-war  by 
order  of  Bismarck. 

So  depressing  is  a  foreign  rule. 

And  nevertheless  this  persistent  suppression  is  to  the 
advantage  of  the  nationality  it  would  grind  to  powder. 

The  peasants  are  waking  up.  They  teach  themselves  to 
read  in  their  Polish  prayer-books.  They  club  together  and 
hire  a  teacher  to  give  them  privately  all  the  necessary 
instruction  in  the  correct  writing  of  their  forbidden  tongue. 
Religious  persecution  especially  rouses  them  and  makes  them 
conscious  Poles.  Before  the  Prussian  Kulturkampf  ihey  did 
not  feel  themselves  to  be  Poles  in  Posen  ;  before  the  perse- 
cution of  the  "  United  "  they  did  not  feel  themselves  Poles  in 
Russian  Poland.  When  the  police  interferes  against  the 
United  priests,  as  in  Lublin,  the  national  consciousness 
increases  and  rises  in  a  whole  province. 

In  the  next  place  it  is  not  wholly  unfortunate  that  hardly 
any  Pole  can  become  an  officer  in  the  army.  It  has  had  the 
good  effect  of  driving  the  Poles  into  paths  so  foreign  to 
them  as  those  of  trade  and  industry,  has  contributed  greatly 
to  create  the  beginnings  of  a  productive,  working  class  of 
citizens.  It  has  finally  aided  not  a  little  in  the  advancement 
of  agriculture. 

And  yet  these  good  influences  are  manifestly  of  slight 
account  in  comparison  with  the  depressing  ones.  It  seems 
impossible  that  Poland  should  endure  under  such  oppression 
for  more  than  a  hundred  years  longer.  But  when  we  see  a 
people  live  materially  and  intellectually  in  the  face  of  tremen- 
dous hindrances,  when  we  follow  with  interest  a  course  of  life 
and  intellectual  development  which  takes  place  under  such 
conditions — then  we  may  well  ask  ourselves  whether  the 
nation  to  which  we  belong,  and  whose  lot  in  life  seems  to 
the  Poles  to  be  so  enviable,  has  used  the  comparatively 
heavenly  conditions,  in  which  it  has  lived,  as  it  could  and 
ought.  And  when  we  see  how  far  the  Poles  succeed,  we  are 
amazed  for  a  moment  at  a  nation  like  the  Danish,  which  has 


102  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

everything  which  the  Poles  lack  and  want  ;  national  inde- 
pendence, a  constitution,  freedom  of  the  press,  liberty  of 
speech,  liberty  of  assembly,  right  to  use  our  money  as  we 
like,  the  power  of  the  state  in  our  own  hands,  the  army  in 
our  service,  free  access  to  the  sea,  as  well  as  to  all  the 
benefits  of  freedom — we  wonder  that  such  a  nation  has  led 
a  life  comparatively  so  meagre,  and  so  formless,  and  has 
suffered  so  many  of  its  greatest  advantages  to  be  torn  from 
it  without  any  foreign  intervention. 

Although  there  is  so  much  that  is  sanguine  in  the  tempera- 
ment of  the  Poles,  nevertheless  the  lack  of  any  future  prospect 
in  their  situation,  humanly  speaking,  broods  over  their  minds 
like  a  nightmare.  There  is  no  visible  prospect  of  their 
emerging  from  their  present  state  save  the  extremely  vague 
one  which  appears  in  the  possibilities  of  a  great  war  with 
Russia  on  the  one  side,  and  Germany  and  Austria  on  the 
other.  Not  that  they  cherish  any  wish  to  exchange  the 
Russian  rule  for  the  German,  although  the  latter  is  more 
humane — it  seems  on  the  other  hand  more  dangerous, 
less  likely  to  be  shaken  off.  If  their  hopes  assume 
a  more  definite  direction,  they  rather  tend  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  great  Slav  power,  under  the  leadership  of 
Austria,  in  which  a  leading  part  would  fall  to  the  Poles  in 
that  part  of  Poland  belonging  to  Austria.  These  dreams  of 
the  future  assume  no  more  definite  form  in  the  minds  of  the 
most  cultured  and  experienced. 

But  we  shall  hardly  be  wrong  in  the  opinion  that  with  the 
majority  of  those  of  average  culture,  faith  in  the  re-establish- 
ment of  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Poland  in  a  not  very  distant 
future  is  still  a  religion. 


VIII 

IS  POLAND   AS  AN   OBJECT  WORTH  THE 
SACRIFICES   MADE   FOR   IT? 

Kraszevski  during  his  exile  once  exclaimed  :  "  Oh,  thou  land, 
which,  when  we  die,  preserves  so  many  reminiscences  of  us  ! 
Oh,  thou  beautiful  land,  our  mother  !  When  we  say  farewell 
to  our  friends,  we  have  the  hope  of  meeting  them  again  in 
the  next  world,  in  heaven.  But  never,  never  again  shall  we 
see  thy  loved  landscapes,  thy  linden  avenues,  thy  villas,  thy 
brooks  and  rivers,  thy  spring  which  was  always  young,  none 
of  all  these  memories.  Can  heaven  really  be  so  beautiful  that 
it  makes  us  forget  all  this,  or  does  a  river  of  Lethe  flow 
before  the  gate  of  Paradise  ?  " 

In  these  words  of  a  childlike  believer,  who  hopes  for  a 
future  meeting  with  his  friends,  but  yet  cannot  expect  a 
future  sight  of  his  fatherland  there  is  a  feeling,  which,  if  we 
give  it  a  little  greater  scope,  embraces  far  more  than  these 
words.  In  fact  how  wonderful  is  this  obstinate  national 
contest  of  the  Poles  !  They  fight  desperately  for  the  pre- 
servation and  development  of  their  language  and  popular 
peculiarities,  and  suffer  a  thousand  pangs  for  their  sake. 
Every  one  of  them  knows  that  he  must  die,  but  he  would 
have  the  consciousness  that  the  language  and  the  people  will 
survive  when  he  shall  know  no  more  of  them.  Even  those 
among  them  who  believe  in  another  life  do  not  imagine  that 
in  that  other  life  they  will  speak  Polish.  And  those  who  do 
not  believe  in  a  future  life,  who  do  not  fear  annihilation  for 
themselves,  fear  it  for  the  whole  nation,  every  individual  of 
which  must  die. 

It  is   a  similar  feeling  to  that  feeling  of  horror,  which 

seizes  most  men  when  they  hear  for  the  first  time  that  this 

earth   is  slowly   cooling  off,  and  that  sometime  in  the  far 

103 


104  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

distant  future  it  will  be  an  ice-cold  sphere,  on  which  no  life 
can  flourish.  They  have  always  known  that  every  individual 
of  the  human  race  must  die,  but  they  would  prefer  that  the 
race  itself  should  not.  This  conception  of  the  frozen  globe 
destroys  all  their  cherished  illusions  about  the  constant  ad- 
vance of  culture,  the  religion  which  most  of  those  who  have 
given  up  revealed  religions  live  upon  ;  for  there  are  even 
now  only  a  few  who  have  grasped  the  ideal  that  the  goal  of 
humanity  cannot  be  at  its  end  or  death,  if  death  be  in  store 
for  it,  but  must  lie  in  its  highest  individualities.  Even  if 
the  human  race  is  to  die  out,  true  culture  is  not  on  this 
account  less  valuable,  not  less  worth  striving  for.  Its  worth 
does  not  depend  on  its  continuance  through  all  eternity. 
We  do  not  ask  whether  a  symphony  is  long  or  short,  but 
whether  it  is  beautiful.  Its  value  is  independent  of  the  time 
it  occupies. 

The  Poles  know  historically,  as  we  do,  that  many  king- 
doms and  nations  have  blossomed  and  disappeared,  but  they 
will  not  believe  that  this  lot  is  now  that  of  their  nation  and 
language,  however  sorely  they  are  pressed  from  all  sides. 
They  will  fight  for  their  life,  and  this  is  to  their  honour, 
whatever  the  result  may  be. 

Many  of  them  must  necessarily  doubt  whether  they  will 
ever  succeed  in  tearing  themselves  free  from  a  supremacy 
which  is  supported  by  an  enormous  army,  in  establishing  a 
Polish  political  hierarchy,  and  in  founding  a  kingdom  out 
of  a  nation  unaccustomed  to  all  self-government  as  the  Poles 
have  now  been  for  almost  a  century.  Inevitably  the  question 
presents  itself  which  I  once  formulated  thus  (in  the  preface 
to  Cherbuliez's  Ladislaus  Bolski^ :  "  Is  Poland  an  ideal  or  a 
reality  ?  It  could  not  continue  when  it  existed,  can  it  be 
re-established,  now  it  has  fallen  ?  Is  this  Poland  for  which 
the  Poles  live  and  go  to  death  more  than  an  abstraction  and 
a  chimera  ?  Is  the  object  worth  the  sacrifices  ?  Or  is  it  the 
sacrifices  which  give  the  object  its  worth  ?  " 

The  object,  like  all  earthly  objects,  only  more  plainly, 
more  palpably,  is  an  ideal,  that  is,  an  unreality,  the  concep- 
tion of  something  good.  It  shows  its  power  over  the  mind 
by  the  strength  with  which  it  compels  generation  after  gen- 


POLAND   THE   TYPE   OF   NATIONALISM      105 

eration  to  place  spiritual  advantages  above  material.  The 
sacrifices  which  are  made  to  this  ideal  do  not  prove  its 
value.  But  it  is  in  and  of  itself  valuable,  in  so  far  as  it 
creates  character,  and  develops  talents,  and  it  is  incontrovert- 
ible that  it  has  called  forth  elevated  thoughts,  heroic  actions, 
and  a  literature  both  rich  and  important.  As  a  motive  power 
it  is  a  civilising  power  ;  for  it  produces  proud,  liberal- 
minded  men. 

We  are  unaccustomed  to  see  a  whole  people  absorbed  in 
an  endeavour,  which  is  resisted  and  fought  against  on  all  sides, 
and  which  seems  to  be  at  variance  even  with  the  historic  law 
of  decadence,  an  endeavour,  which  exists  not  only  by 
force  of  the  instinct  of  self-preservation,  but  more  or  less 
consciously  by  force  of  the  fundamental  idea  that  the  life  of 
the  world  becomes  poorer  and  more  uniform  for  each 
national  individuality  which  disappears — an  endeavour  which 
might  nevertheless  be  futile.  Yet  Poland's  disappearance 
would  not  be  like  that  of  Assyria  or  Egypt  in  remote  an- 
tiquity ;  for  Poland  in  the  presence  of  Russia  and  Prussia, 
politically  speaking,  signifies  independence,  freedom,  justice, 
reason — that  is  to  say,  the  question  whether  these  forces  shall 
conquer  or  succumb.  Poland  is  the  question  whether  it  is 
military  force  or  the  will  of  the  people  that  is  to  have  the 
last  word  in  the  history  of  the  world  of  the  present  day. 
Should  Poland  be  definitely  lost,  it  would  indicate  nothing 
less  in  principle  than  that  the  culture  of  liberty  and  liberality 
in  Europe  were  lost.  One  independent  country  after  an- 
other would  fall  after  Poland. 

On  the  other  hand,  if  the  culture  of  freedom  gains 
ground,  the  oppression,  which  rests  so  heavily  on  Poland, 
will  be  lightened,  and  Polish  nationality  will  find  a  form, 
under  which  it  can  live  its  own  life.  For  a  hundred  years 
it  has  now  been  under  the  yoke  of  three  great  powers,  it 
has  served  as  their  anvil,  and  has  borne  the  blows  of  the 
enormous  hammers  without  being  crushed.  Either  before 
very  long  the  hammers  will  be  stopped,  or  this  culture, 
which  was  once  the  pride  of  western  Europe,  will  be 
annihilated. 

We  cannot  see  thoroughly  into  anything.     Our  life  is  a 

I 


io6  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

phenomenon ;  we  are  surrounded  by  phenomena  and  by 
phenomena  only.  We  are  nothing  but  images  for  each 
other.  When  we  die  the  image  remains  in  the  conscious- 
ness of  others,  because  it  was  the  only  thing  of  us  which 
was  ever  there. 

We  know  also  that  the  ideals  which  in  olden  times  were 
localised  and  converted  into  the  qualities  of  a  supernatural 
person,  the  greatest  liberty,  the  highest  justice,  &c.,  are  mere 
images,  never  realised  anywhere  or  at  any  time,  and  that 
they  will  never  be  fully  realised  anywhere  ;  we  know  that 
they  have  no  other  existence  than  that  which  our  manner  of 
thought  and  action  give  them.  They  exist  only  in  so  far  as 
we  love  them.  But  we  love  them  only  so  far  as  we  labour 
for  them. 

The  highest  love  is  a  pain,  which  we  soothe  by  living 
and  working  for  the  object  of  our  love. 

That  Poland's  whole  intellectual  life  is  absorbed  in  the 
question  of  the  existence  of  the  Polish  nationality  is  therefore 
not  so  poor  a  cause  as  it  seems  ;  for  Poland,  in  the  his- 
torical development  of  relations,  has  become  synonymous 
with  the  right  of  mankind  to  civil  and  intellectual  free- 
dom and  with  the  right  of  nations  to  independence.  Poland 
is  synonymous  with  our  hope  or  our  illusion  as  to  the  advance 
of  our  age  in  culture.  Its  future  coincides  with  the  future  of 
civilisation.  Its  final  destruction  would  be  synonymous 
with  the  victory  of  modern,  military  barbarism  in  Europe. 


THIRD    IMPRESSION 

1894 


A     POLISH     MANOR-HOUSE 

I 

NEIGHBOURHOOD— LANDSCAPE— INCREASED 
SEVERITY  OF  RUSSIAN  RULE 

We  left  Warsaw  in  the  afternoon.  The  town  lay  simmering 
in  the  glowing  sun  ;  people  went  slowly  along  in  the  shadow 
of  the  houses  ;  all  the  military — infantry,  Cossacks,  gen- 
darmes— were  dressed  in  white  linen. 

In  the  train  we  met  acquaintances — Poles  who  were 
returning  from  the  Carpathian  mountains  (Tatra)  or  from 
Bohemian  watering-places,  others  who  were  travellers  or 
residents  in  the  environs.  Groups  were  formed  in  the 
corridors  ;   we  jested  and  laughed  ;   thus  time  passed. 

At  K.  a  couple  of  carriages  awaited  us — one  for  ourselves, 
another  for  the  luggage — and  off  we  went  at  full  speed  in  the 
summer  evening,  along  excellent  old  military  highways 
of  the  Napoleonic  era,  along  sandy,  heavy  roads,  at  last 
through  an  endless  avenue  of  tall  poplars. 

Franciszek  told  us  of  his  conversations  with  the  Governor- 
General  of  Poland,  whom  I  had  once  met. 

After  an  attack  of  apoplexy  he  sent  for  Franciszek  and 
asked  him  to  accompany  him  on  a  journey.  Evidently 
Gurko  is  more  remarkable  as  a  general  than  as  a  person 
of  ordinary  intelligence.  On  leaving  a  place  he  always  left 
a  pair  of  boots  behind,  convinced  that  this  would  be  his  only 
chance  of  returning  alive  to  the  same  place.  Franciszek 
pointed  out  to  him  that  even  if  the  fact  of  forgetting  a  pair 
of  boots  were  a  main  condition  for  returning,  it  would  be 
doubtful  that  this  same  result  would  be  obtained  if  the  boots 
had  been  left  on  purpose.  Gurko  answered,  that  according 
to  his  experience  it  was  undoubtedly  so.     Whenever  he  had 

»o9 


no  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

been  on  his  way  to  danger  he  had  left  a  pair  of  boots  behind, 
and  had  thus  scattered  no  less  than  112  pairs  of  boots  in 
Russia,  Turkey,  and  Asia. 

Perhaps  much  apparent  heroism  may  be  explained  by 
such  a  firm  faith  in  boots. 

We  drove  on  ;  it  grew  dark  and  the  stars  appeared.  We 
drove  through  miserable  towns  and  still  more  miserable 
villages,  whitewashed  frame  houses,  common  wooden  houses 
with  thatched  roofs,  and  outside  swarms  of  bare-legged 
children. 

The  horses  did  not  get  tired,  and  the  avenue  seemed  to 
be  endless.  As  far  as  we  could  see,  no  manor-house  was 
visible  for  miles  round.  I  began  to  insist  that  Krolewice 
did  not  exist  at  all,  that  probably  we  were  travelling  in 
a  circle  and  most  likely  towards  dawn  we  should  drive 
through  B.  at  a  gentle  trot  and  return  to  the  station  at 
K.  Mme.  Jozefa's  grey  eyes  gleamed  laughingly  in  the 
darkness  ;  the  two  young  girls,  guests,  agreed  that  I  was 
right,  and  began  to  tell  stories,  that  moved  them  to  inces- 
sant peals  of  laughter.  One  funny  story  called  forth 
another,  and  while  the  fields  sent  forth  their  aromatic  per- 
fume, and  the  air  grew  cooler  and  fresher,  the  merry 
carriage  rushed  on  in  the  transparent  darkness  of  the  mid- 
summer night.  One  might  have  supposed  that  it  contained 
only  happy  people. 

At  length  we  caught  sight  of  something  white  behind  large 
groups  of  trees.  Soon  we  faintly  saw  the  outlines  of  a 
spacious  courtyard  and  the  contour  of  a  mighty  garden. 

The  carriage  makes  a  turn,  drives  through  the  open 
gateway  and  stops.  In  the  luminous  hall  were  assembled 
the  staff  of  the  manor  and  all  the  servants  in  gala  dress  to 
receive  their  master  and  mistress.  After  a  hasty  toilet,  we 
all  assembled  late  in  the  evening  for  the  dinner  so  long 
postponed.  It  looked  so  pretty  ;  the  table  was  decked  with 
masses  of  flowers,  and  all  was  festively  arranged  for  the 
occasion,  with  excellent  food  and  Polish  champagne — that  is, 
French,  imported  half  finished,  and  given  the  last  admixture 
here,  as  otherwise  the  duty  would  amount  to  two  rubles  and 
fifty  copecks  for  each  bottle. 


A   POLISH    COUNTRY    HOUSE  iii 

Since  this  I  have  become  famiHar  with  the  country.  I 
know  it  pretty  well,  so  much  the  better  as  no  breath  from 
the  surrounding  world  has  disturbed  my  peace.  Not  a  book, 
not  a  newspaper  have  I  been  able  to  get  during  the  time  I 
have  been  here.  All  my  newspapers  are  sent  to  the  censor- 
ship, and  my  letters  are  detained  in  Warsaw.  I  don't  know 
anything  about  the  world — that  is,  Denmark — save  what  is  to 
be  found  in  the  telegrams  of  the  Gazeia  Polska^  and  that  is 
not  much.  I  have  telegraphed  and  written  to  the  post  office 
in  Warsaw  ;  everything  rebounds  from  Russian  bureaucracy. 
I  wonder  if  at  any  place,  even  in  Turkey,  there  is  such 
a  wonderful  want  of  law  as  in   Russia. 

Outside  the  garden  the  landscape  extends  in  all  its  flat- 
ness. Rich  it  is,  cornfield  beyond  cornfield,  and  pleasant, 
for  poplars  and  birches,  willows  and  lindens  shade  the  roads. 
But  the  finest  ornaments  of  the  landscape  at  present  are  the 
enormous  stacks  of  rye,  put  up  in  a  way  unknown  among 
us,  like  ancient  round  towers  with  low,  pointed  roofs.  The 
roof  is  golden,  the  towers  are  brown,  because  here  the  ear 
is  not  visible  in  all  its  length,  and  in  the  sun  these  stacks 
look  most  cheerful.  Save  for  these,  the  flatness  is  only 
broken  by  windmills,  trees,  and  now  and  then  far  away  by  a 
church  or  a  wood.  All  around,  girls  with  white  kerchiefs  on 
their  heads  are  raking  hay. 

The  arrangement  of  the  house  is  above  all  praise.  It  is 
an  oasis  of  civilisation  in  a  land  of  rustics.  Everything  pro- 
claims the  most  exquisite  refinement  of  taste  ;  and  especially 
pleasing  is  a  library,  so  enormous,  so  entertaining,  so 
beautifully  bound,  that  its  equal  will  not  easily  be  found 
in  the  private  houses  of  any  capital.  Each  room  has  its 
peculiar  stamp,  and  the  ground  floor  opens  into  a  vast  palm- 
house. 

The  manor  forms  no  slight  contrast  to  the  surrounding 
habitations.  When  the  peasants  want  help  or  advice,  they 
do  not  apply  to  the  priest,  who  for  the  rest  is  a  very  honest 
young  man  (he  has  been  to  Rome  and  speaks  a  little  Italian), 
but  to  our  lady  of  the  manor  ;  and  it  must  be  confessed  that 
human  nature  is  so  strong  in  them  that  they  steal  any- 
thing they  want  which  they  do  not  obtain  as  a  gift.     They 


112  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

steal  everything  that  can  be  stolen,  from  poultry  to  garden 
tools  ;  they  fell  the  trees  in  the  wood,  and  steal  so  much  the 
more  passionately  that  Mrs.  Jozefa  brings  no  charge  against 
them.  "  What  of  that  ?  "  she  says  ;  "  they  are  so  poor,  they 
must  be  excused." 

The  weather  is  warm,  but  not  too  hot,  and  the  bathing 
arrangements  are  excellent ;  only  the  flies  and  mosquitoes 
are  rather  disagreeable.  However,  we  are  well  protected 
by  an  ingenious  contrivance  ;  the  inner  windows  consist  of 
fine  wire  netting,  so  that  no  insect  can  make  its  way  into 
the  room,  and  we  can  sit  with  open  windows  and  enjoy  the 
fresh  air. 

Never  even  in  Holland  have  I  seen  such  cleanliness  as 
reigns  here.  This,  indeed,  marks  one  of  the  sharpest  con- 
trasts between  the  higher  classes  and  the  common  people 
in  Poland.  The  whole  house  is  cleaned  every  day,  nay, 
even  a  couple  of  times  a  day  ;  three  or  four  servants  at  a 
time  are  sent  to  clean  a  room,  so  that  everything  is  in  order 
in  fifteen  minutes. 

Very  often  we  have  guests  :  yesterday  came  a  couple  of 
Polish  painters  who  are  living  in  Munich  ;  they  brought  a 
breath  of  ale  and  of  art  with  them  from  the  big  art  village. 
To-day  came  the  editor  of  one  of  the  great  papers  of  Warsaw. 

Russian  power  has  developed  in  an  astounding  manner 
since  last  I  was  here.  Then  it  was  possible  to  have  papers 
by  book  post  without  their  passing  the  censorship,  if  they 
were  written  in  a  language  not  known  by  the  officials.  Now 
all  is  sent  to  St.  Petersburg  to  be  examined  if  it  is  not 
understood  here.  We  get  the  Figaro  a  week  late,  and, 
in  every  number,  large  pieces  are  blackened  over.  Even 
a  clerical  and  conservative  paper  like  the  Figaro  is  often 
confiscated.  In  La  Vie  Parisienne  the  improper  parts  are 
blackened  over,  and  much  is  considered  improper. 

At  present  there  is  an  exhibition  of  Polish  industry 
and  art  at  Lemberg.  The  government  has  ordered  that  no 
one  in  Russian  Poland  shall  exhibit.  (In  several  cases  it  has 
been  done,  nevertheless.)  But  then  the  question  arose 
whether  the  papers  might  write  about  the  exhibition.  The 
first  month  it  was  absolutely  forbidden  even  to  mention  it. 


OFFICIAL    TYRANNY  113 

Later  each  paper  got  permission  to  insert  four  articles  from 
Lemberg,  none  to  exceed  a  hundred  lines,  and  all  to  be 
on  the  products  of  industry,  not  a  word  about  art ;  be- 
tween each  article  an  interval  of  a  fortnight  was  to  elapse. 
This  winter  an  editor  was  sent  for  by  the  director  of  police, 
who,  in  a  voice  trembling  with  anger,  asked  him  what  he 
meant  by  writing  in  a  manuscript  the  Polish  letters  which 
answer  to  "  H.I.M."  "What  does  '  H.I.M.'  mean?" — "Of 
course,  His  Imperial  Majesty  ;  it  is  a  generally  used  abbrevia- 
tion."— "  Aha  1  you  have  the  audacity  to  abbreviate  the  title 
of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  ?  You  have  not  room  enough 
in  your  paper  for  his  whole  title?  In  that  case  you  may  be 
sure  that  he  will  find  room  for  you,  where  you  do  not  want 
to  go.  Now  you  may  pay  600  rubles  provisionally  for  your 
evil  intention." 

In  Warsaw  I  saw  odious  examples  of  the  brutality  of 
the  police.  On  every  possible  occasion  they  strike  and  push 
the  poor  cabmen  with  their  sheathed  swords.  These  drivers, 
with  their  numbers  hanging  on  their  backs,  resemble  real 
slaves. 

Here  in  the  country  the  common  people  are  quite 
broken  by  oppression.  In  the  village  school  only  Russian 
is  taught,  which  language  the  peasants  do  not  understand. 
But  as  instruction  is  not  obligatory,  very  few  of  the  children 
go  to  school.  In  law-suits  the  language  is  likewise  Russian, 
and  all  must  pass  through  an  interpreter,  so  that  the 
accused  is  unable  to  control  his  own  statement.  The 
official  policy  is  to  irritate  the  peasants  against  the  higher 
classes,  and  in  all  civil  cases  the  former  always  gain  their 
point.  A  landed  proprietor  here  with  his  huntsman  sur- 
prised four  poachers  who  had  committed  a  literal  carnage 
among  his  game,  and  who  were  about  to  load  their  booty 
on  a  cart  when  he  appeared.  They  escaped,  but  he  got 
hold  of  a  coat,  which  he  retained  to  produce  as  evidence. 
The  thieves  were  acquitted,  as  it  was  impossible,  against 
their  denial,  to  prove  that  the  game  they  had  on  their 
cart  belonged  to  the  proprietor.  The  latter,  on  the  other 
hand,  was  sentenced  to  three  months'  imprisonment  for  the 
theft  of  a  coat. 

H 


114  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Thus  is  justice  meted  out,  and  the  only  consolation  is, 
that  however  bad  things  may  be,  they  might  be  worse. 
And  men  rejoice  that  the  worse  has  not  yet  come  to  pass. 
In  Poland,  as  everywhere,  there  is  always  cause  for  gratitude. 
A  man  looked  upwards,  when  a  swallow,  which  was  flying 
above  his  head,  dropped  something  on  his  nose.  "  How 
lucky,"  he  said,  "  that  the  cow  has  no  wings." 

People  are  unconcerned  here  in  Poland  in  spite  of  their 
torments.  They  live  like  a  mutilated  man,  who  proves 
that  it  is  possible  to  have  but  one  leg,  one  arm,  one  eye,  and 
still  be  a  man.  They  are  like  Josias  Rantzau,  who  had  only 
some  few  pieces  of  himself  left  and  yet  kept  up  his  courage 
and  good  temper.  They  live,  deprived  of  all  political  life,  all 
social  endeavour,  all  direct  pursuit  of  national  aims,  and 
they  live  the  more  intensely  the  life  left  to  them.  They 
live  and  feel  as  elsewhere,  and  they  rest  satisfied  with  speak- 
ing that  which  must  not  be  written  or  printed. 

At  this  moment  the  sky  is  as  clear  as  on  a  sunshiny  day  in 
the  south,  and  the  sight  I  have  before  me  beyond  the  wire  is 
full  of  peaceful  beauty.  In  the  foreground,  a  large  lawn 
studded  with  beds  of  tall  rose-trees  and  flame-coloured 
pelargoniums.  A  beautiful  effect  is  made  by  a  shrub  with 
white  leaves  among  them.  All  around  are  grouped  the 
mighty  old  trees  of  the  park.  Outside  the  gateway  a  carriage 
with  four  horses  waits  us  to  take  us  to  the  neighbouring 
manor. 

In  short,  life  is  charming  for  the  moment. 

Merim^e  used  to  summarise  his  views  of  life  as  follows : 
Harlequin  fell  out  of  the  window  from  the  fifth  storey. 
When  he  passed  the  third,  spmebody  asked  him  how  he 
felt.  "  Pretty  well,"  he  answered,  "  provided  that  this  con- 
tinues." 

We  all  know  how  the  fall  will  end,  but  as  long  as  one  is 
in  the  air,  it  is  not  so  bad. 


II 

CHOLERA— CENSORSHIP— ARRESTS 

Towards  seven  o'clock  when  the  burning  heat  of  day  is 
over  the  different  inmates  of  the  house  appear  from  their 
rooms.  Some  take  a  ride  on  horseback,  others  walk  in 
the  fields.  A  few  of  the  elders  are  content  with  a  walk  in 
the  garden.  Last  night,  when  our  host  had  dismounted 
from  his  horse  by  the  lawn  before  the  veranda,  and  Miss 
Helen  had  come  in  after  a  long  conversation  in  the  garden 
about  the  future  of  mankind,  religion,  morals,  love,  and 
other  subjects,  I  laid  before  our  hostess  the  number  of 
the  Revue  de  Parisy  containing  part  of  the  Hymn  to  Apollo 
(music  and  words),  found  in  Delphi,  and  asked  her  to  sing 
and  play  it.  She  did  so,  and  exclaimed  with  surprise: 
"fVagnerf  It  is  pure  Wagner  ! "  I  told  her  that  it  was  just  the 
impression  this  music  had  made  on  the  French  scientific  man 
who  published  it,  and  we  lost  ourselves  in  reflections  on  the 
honour  it  was  for  Wagner,  that  those  melodies  so  long 
hidden  beneath  the  earth  of  that  ancient,  wonderful  land  of 
beauty,  should  present  an  analogy  with  his  art.  If  Nietzsche 
had  lived  to  see  this  it  would  have  made  a  deep  impression  on 
him,  and  his  criticism  of  Wagner  would  have  been  deprived 
of  a  point  of  support.  For  it  would  be  startling,  indeed,  to 
insist  on  the  decadence  of  art  in  Greece  in  the  fifth  century 
before  Christ. 

From  old  Greek  music  the  conversation  glided  to  old 
Greek  vase-paintings.  I  showed  a  reproduction  of  the 
remarkable  painting  of  Eos  carrying  the  corpse  of  her  son, 
which  so  absolutely  anticipates  the  Christian  Maier  dolorosa. 
We  spoke  of  the  satyr  with  the  wooden  leg  painted  on 
an  old  vase  showing,  that  the  ancients  practised  amputation, 
and  replaced  the  lost  limb  by  an  artificial  one.  Then  we  left 
Greece  for  Poland,  Greek  paintings  for  Wiwiorski's  ceiling 

"S 


ii6  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

and  wall-paintings  ;  Greek  misfortunes  and  sorrows  for  more 
proximate  modern  miseries,  Polish  and  universal. 

The  cholera  has  appeared  in  the  villages  around  here  : 
at  B.,  at  K. — everywhere.  Out  of  ten  attacked  by  the 
sickness,  five  at  least  generally  die  immediately.  Unfor- 
tunately in  this  month  many  church  festivals  are  held. 
Thus  next  week  a  local  festival  is  impending  ;  the  Pardon. 
The  peasants  gather  in  crowds  on  this  occasion  to  make 
merry  and  enjoy  life  for  a  few  days.  In  the  Middle  Ages 
there  was  some  sense  in  this  kind  of  festival.  At  that  time 
the  church  imposed  upon  sinners  of  both  sexes  severe  punish- 
ments, all  sorts  of  penances  (such  as  not  being  allowed  to 
eat  meat  for  five  years  ;  the  wearing  of  a  hair  shirt  for  years, 
&c.).  Now  and  then  a  general  pardon  was  given,  and  of 
course  this  was  celebrated  with  extravagant  joy.  In  our 
days  the  punishments  and  penances  have  ceased,  and  only 
the  fairs  remain.  But  under  present  circumstances  they 
are  rather  perilous.  The  peasants  revel  in  fruit,  much  of 
which  is  unripe,  and  drink  a  quantity  of  beer.  We  have 
applied  to  the  priest  and  asked  him  to  write  to  the  arch- 
bishop to  get  the  festival  definitely  postponed,  but  as  the 
latter  has  refused  a  similar  request  from  a  neighbouring 
community,  there  is  little  or  no  hope. 

Last  week  I  went  to  Warsaw  and  had  an  audience  of  his 
Excellency  the  President  of  the  Censorship,  M.  Jankulio,  a 
handsome  man  of  mixed  race,  who  has,  they  say  Greek,  Jewish, 
and  Russian  blood  in  his  veins.  He  is  allied  to  the  Gurko 
family  ;  was  for  a  time  secretary  to  the  Governor-General, 
and  has  made  a  speedy  career.  He  received  me  with 
courtesy,  assured  me  that  printed  matter  sent  to  me  was  not 
retained,  for  one  reason,  because  nobody  in  the  censorship 
understood  Danish ;  I  should  get  everything  sent  to  me  without 
delay,  &c.  Nevertheless,  a  week  later,  I  received  a  Danish 
newspaper  of  July  31,  sent  to  me  on  the  12th  of  August 
with  the  stamp  of  the  censorship  in  St.  Petersburg.  His 
Excellency,  who  called  in  several  subordinates  to  report, 
has,  as  may  be  seen,  been  greatly  misinformed  as  to  what  is 
taking  place  in  his  own  office  ;  the  functionaries,  who  do 
not  understand  Danish,  have  simply  sent  everything  to  St. 


ARBITRARY    ARRESTS  117 

Petersburg,  where  there  are  Finns  enough  in  the  censorship 
who  understand  our  language.  No  great  regard  is  paid  to 
the  convenience  of  the  reader  if  it  is  a  question  of  watching 
the  foreign  press.  Whole  articles  are  cut  out ;  thus  one  in  a 
French  review  on  the  history  of  anarchism.  All  that  is 
disapproved  on  political,  moral,  or  religious  grounds,  is 
blackened  over  in  such  a  way  that  not  a  letter  is  legible. 

It  is  not  to  be  denied  that  the  Russians  know  how  to 
govern.  The  machine  works  to  perfection — soundless,  silent 
as  death,  but  effectual.  For  instance,  the  time  is  long 
gone  by  when  political  trials  had  a  certain  publicity  ;  now 
things  are  done  in  quite  a  different  and  undeniably  a  far 
more  intelligent  way.  Early  some  morning  the  person 
concerned  is  fetched  by  a  carriage  and  a  couple  of  very 
polite  gendarmes.  And  from  that  moment  ni  vu  ni  su — 
impossible  to  learn  anything  at  all  of  him  until  he  comes 
back,  if  he  comes  back. 

In  one  of  the  neighbouring  manors  a  young  girl  of  twenty 
was  arrested  one  morning.  The  parents'  desperate  demand  to 
know  the  reason  why  received  no  answer;  the  gendarmes  had 
their  orders  and  knew  nothing.  The  parents  followed  in  their 
carriage  and  reached  Warsaw  almost  as  soon  as  their  daughter. 
They  rushed  to  the  authorities  ;  they  knew  nothing,  only  that 
the  young  girl  was  no  longer  in  Warsaw.  Six  months  later  she 
came  back  from  the  Petropavlovsk  fortress  in  St.  Petersburg. 
A  cousin  of  hers  had  been  arrested  on  the  charge  of  possess- 
ing a  number  of  forbidden  books.  Questioned  as  to  whence 
he  had  got  each  of  them  he  had  not  answered,  until  the 
constant  awakening  during  the  night-time,  and  other  methods 
loosened  his  tongue.  He  confessed  that  his  cousin  had 
procured  him  one  of  these  books.  As  nothing  else  could 
be  stated  against  her  she  was  released  that  time ;  but 
this  year,  when  the  insane  mourning  procession  of  young 
men  and  young  girls  took  place  through  the  streets  of 
Warsaw  on  the  day  on  which  the  revolt  in  1794  broke 
out,  she  was  arrested  anew  as  a  participator.  It  was  of  no 
avail  to  the  promoters  of  the  demonstration  that  they  had 
called  together  the  young  people  by  means  of  a  handbill 
in  these  words :  "  A  lady  (here  a  fictitious  name)  of  great 


ii8  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

virtues  and  abilities  is  dead.  She  was  infinitely  beloved 
by  her  children,  who  cherish  her  memory  and  hope  for 
her  resurrection.  Those  who  knew  her  may  assemble  this  day 
in  honour  of  her."  It  was  intended  to  put  garlands  before  the 
house  of  the  shoemaker  where  the  revolt  was  proclaimed,  but 
the  police  surrounded  and  arrested  all  the  members  of  the 
procession — about  three  hundred ;  they  are  all  transported, 
and  the  young  girl  among  them.  It  is  said  that  they  are 
isolated,  each  in  a  different  place. 

A  student  who,  a  couple  of  years  ago,  was  arrested  as 
leader  of  a  socialistic  group,  has  disappeared  so  completely 
that  his  brother,  in  spite  of  repeated  supplications,  has  not 
been  able  to  learn  even  this — if  he  has  been  hanged  or  is 
still  alive. 

The  time  has  long  gone  by  when  executions  were  public. 
They  take  place  silently  in  the  jails,  and  it  is  said  that  no 
account  is  even  kept  of  them  in  Petropavlovsk :  they  are 
so  easy  there — plenty  of  water  around  the  island. 

It  is  fair  to  say  of  the  Russians  that  as  a  reigning  caste 
they  are  not  to  be  trifled  with.  Four  officers  of  the 
Guards,  who  had  abused  their  position  by  propagating 
Nihilism  among  their  subordinates,  were  arrested.  One  of 
the  rebellious  books  found  at  their  house  was  a  treatise 
printed  abroad,  and  a  note  was  also  found  stating  that  it  had 
been  lent  the  officer  by  a  relation,  a  justice  of  the  peace. 
The  latter  was  arrested,  and  cross-questioned  as  to  why  he 
had  procured  the  book.  He  answered,  and  with  apparent 
truth,  that  he  had  wished  to  read  the  book  out  of  curiosity 
without  concurring  in  the  ideas  expressed  in  it.  The  four 
officers  of  course  were  shot ;  but  it  is  more  surprising  to 
learn  that  the  justice  was  hanged.  There  is  something  ex- 
cellent in  the  system ;  it  renders  vanity  as  a  motive  of 
political  crimes  impossible.  No  paper  dares  to  mention  the 
name  of  the  criminal,  far  less  speak  of  his  arrest,  or  anything 
he  might  say  in  his  defence.  He  disappears  in  silence  and 
his  name  is  never  mentioned  in  any  paper.  If  this  system 
were  adopted  in  Italy  and  France  the  number  of  political 
murderers  would  probably  be  considerably  diminished. 
However,  it  is  not  to  be  denied  that  it  has  certain  drawbacks. 


COURTESY    OF    RUSSIAN    OFFICERS  119 

Of  late  years  the  severity  concerning  prohibited  books 
has  been  considerably  augmented.  It  has  become  impossible 
to  procure  any  of  these  ;  no  bookseller  dares  now  to  order 
one  of  them.  For  instance,  none  of  the  books  I  have  pub- 
lished in  foreign  languages  since  I  was  last  here  have  crossed 
the  frontier. 

The  amiability  and  good  breeding  of  the  Russian  officers 
are  in  curious  contrast  to  this  severity.  It  must  be  admitted 
that  in  the  Russian  officer  of  the  Guards  (and  only  the 
Guards  are  stationed  in  Warsaw)  we  never  notice  the  con- 
ceit and  arrogance  which  characterise  the  Prussian  officer. 
Courtesy,  almost  modesty,  the  bearing  of  the  polished  man 
of  the  world,  are  the  peculiar  stamp  of  the  Russian  officer. 
And  this  humanity  is  not  merely  superficial.  The  two  Rus- 
sian officers,  whose  position  would  enable  them  to  do  more 
evil  than  any  one,  the  commander  of  the  gendarmerie, 
General  Brock,  and  the  chief  of  the  police.  General  Kreigels, 
are  actually  beloved  by  the  Polish  population.  They  always 
deliver  the  mildest  possible  reports.  Every  harshness  dis- 
played is  against  their  wishes.  But  they  are  obliged  to  obey 
the  orders  they  get. 

In  the  officers'  staff  itself  there  is  no  inclination  to  treat 
the  Poles  as  a  vanquished  people.  They  rather  insist  upon 
a  gentlemanly  behaviour  towards  them.  Recently  we  had  a 
striking  instance  of  this.  A  son  of  the  Governor-General 
saw  at  the  house  of  a  comrade  here  a  forbidden  book  and 
asked  him  how  he  had  got  it ;  the  officer  told  him  the  name 
of  the  bookseller.  The  young  Lieutenant  Gurko  went  to  the 
latter  and  asked  for  the  book. — No,  it  was  not  to  be  had,  it 
was  forbidden. — If  he  could  procure  it  for  him  ? — Under 
common  circumstances  it  would  be  impossible,  but  as  to  the 
son  of  the  Governor-General,  he  supposed  that  the  pro- 
hibition might  be  waived. — Some  weeks  later  the  lieutenant 
got  his  book,  and  denounced  the  bookseller,  who  was  arrested. 
Immediately  thereafter  the  officers  of  the  regiment,  each  and 
all  of  them,  sent  in  a  petition  that  Lieutenant  Gurko  might  be 
struck  off  the  list  of  officers  ;  failing  this,  they  all  requested 
their  own  dismissal.  They  got  no  answer,  but  they  insisted. 
The  consequence  was,  in  fact,  that  Lieutenant  Gurko  was  dis- 


I20  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

missed  ;  to  be  sure  he  was  at  the  same  time  placed  upon 
the  general  staff. 

The  overwhelming  heat  is  now  over  ;  the  time  in  which 
the  shower-bath  house  in  the  park  was  our  main  consolation. 
I  never  entered  it  without  being  reminded  of  the  first  act  of 
The  Valkyries,  for  it  is  built  up  round  four  gigantic  stems  of 
trees  which  rise  through  the  house  like  the  large  tree  in  the 
dwelling  of  Siegfried's  mother. 

Now  the  temperature  is  such  that  we  should  like  to  make 
use  of  the  invitations  received  from  the  neighbouring  manors. 
The  sad  state  of  the  roads  obliges  us  to  pay  our  visits  in  a 
carriage  and  four,  otherwise  we  should  never  get  along.  At 
the  neighbouring  manors  there  are  several  original  men  and 
women. 


Ill 

MONOTONY  AND  STILLNESS— SUMMER-NIGHT  SENTI- 
MENTS—POLITICAL DIVERGENCE  OF  THE  OLDER 
AND  YOUNGER  GENERATIONS 

The  peaceful  quiet  that  reigns  here  is  of  the  kind  possible 
only  to  those  who  live  miles  from  railway  stations  and  towns. 
Never  a  sound  breaks  the  silence  of  the  night,  with  the 
exception  of  the  watchman's  horn,  which  every  quarter  of 
an  hour  announces  that  he  is  awake.  But  as  for  me,  I  never 
hear  it  after  having  gone  to  bed.  We  sleep  calmly  in  this 
stillness,  and  therefore  I  am  always  awake  when  in  the 
morning  Wladislaw  brings  my  clothes  and  opens  the  shutters 
and  windows.  Wladislaw  is  from  Lithuania,  thirty  years 
old,  and  he  it  is  who,  among  the  servants  of  the  house,  has 
been  placed  at  my  disposal.  He  is  a  jewel  of  a  man — small, 
slender,  and  strong,  full  of  the  Polish  flexibility  in  every 
limb,  and  particularly  intelligent.  He  speaks  French  and 
Italian  very  well,  having  passed  five  years  in  Florence  with 
Count  Guybowsky,  and  two  years  with  Franciszek  in  Paris. 
He  does  not  always  express  himself  correctly  in  French,  but 
his  locutions  are  always  extremely  picturesque.  For  in- 
stance, he  says :  "  //  mouche  fort  aujourd'hui; "  this  is  to  be 
interpreted:  "There  are  a  great  many  flies  to-day."  He 
speaks  Polish  as  his  native  tongue  ;  understands  Lithuanian 
and  Russian.  I  am  an  ignorant  fellow  in  comparison  with 
him.  To  be  sure,  I  know  German ;  but  he  knows  how  to 
shave.  I  know  a  little  English  ;  but  he  can  carry  my  tub 
with  a  straight  arm.  In  Paris  he  might  become  an  inter- 
preter, a  hairdresser,  or  a  waiter  as  it  might  happen  ;  were 
he  a  little  less  good-natured,  he  would  be  the  typical  Figaro. 

It  does  one  good  to  open  one's  eyes  on  beautiful  lawns 
and  trees.  The  more  one  has  been  condemned  to  live  in  a 
town  the  more  one  is  sensible  of  living  with  nature.     When 


122  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

I  am  driving  about  here  and  I  perceive  by  the  strong  sweet 
perfume  that  we  are  approaching  a  clover  field  in  blossom,  I 
make  the  horse  walk,  that  I  may  not  be  deprived  of  any  of 
this  perfume.  When  one  is  unaccustomed  to  ramble  about 
on  field-paths,  every  feather  becomes  interesting,  and  one 
looks  at  the  plants  like  a  botanising  schoolboy.  In  the  fore- 
noon I  rove  about  alone,  the  heat  being  too  intense  for  my 
friends.  But  towards  evening  we  all  walk  out  together,  and 
every  day  a  different  way.  The  constant  spectacle — the  sun- 
set, the  twilight,  the  rising  of  the  red  moon  on  the  horizon, 
and  its  change  into  sparkling  yellow — is  every  day  the  same 
and  every  day  new.  One's  mood  and  the  conversation  vary, 
according  to  one's  companion.  Yesterday  the  air  was  calm  ; 
dusk  came  on  speedily  ;  the  mown  fields  breathed  fragrance 
after  the  rain,  and  the  full  moon  was  shining  with  an  almost 
hypnotising  effect.  The  young  girl  beside  me  quoted  in  a 
low  voice  a  poem  by  Kistemaekers,  of  which  these  are  the 
first  strophes : — 

"  J'aime  la  nuit. 
La  nuit  des  reves 
Aux  heures  braves 
Quand  I'astre  luit 
Sur  champs  et  greves, 
J'aime  la  nuit. 

Quand  la  nuit  dort 
Dans  le  silence, 
La  lune  lance 
Sa  clart^  d'or, 
Qui  se  balance 
Quand  la  nuit  dort" 

It  was  surprising  how  these  verses  mingled  with  the  harmony 
of  the  summer  night. 

Thus  the  days  pass  ;  monotonous  days  which  are  but  a 
succession  of  spectacles  of  nature  and  of  conversations  ;  days 
of  which  we  do  not  know  if  they  are  Tuesday  or  Friday  ; 
weeks,  of  which  only  Sunday  is  recognisable,  because  then 
at  twelve  o'clock  the  church  bells  call  the  faithful  together 
for  mass.  These  church  bells  !  Every  evening  at  nine  o'clock 
they  strike  a  few  times,  and  then  cease  as  if  in  alarm.  An 
official  explanation  as  to  the  signification  of  these  strokes  has 
been  given  to  the  authorities.     In  reality  they  toll  in  memory 


MURDER    OF    AN    ACTRESS  123 

of  the  Poles  who  fell  for  freedom  during  the  revolution. 
Few  strokes  only  and  muffled,  a  secret  appeal  to  memory. 
But  no  alarm-bell  could  conjure,  as  they  are  conjuring,  all 
over  the  land,  in  the  capital  as  well  as  in  the  smallest  village. 

We  are  lulled  by  this  monotony  and  stillness,  this  good, 
pure  air.  The  cholera  is  raging  near  us  in  Sochazew,  but  it 
does  not  reach  us.  And  we  do  not  at  all  regret  Warsaw, 
where  the  epidemic  has  spread  enormously.  The  only 
temptation  there  is  the  theatre.  Marcello  is  acting,  and  I 
have  not  yet  seen  her  this  time. 

When  Poland's  greatest  actress,  Modrzejewska,  had 
emigrated  to  America  to  act  only  in  English,  Wisnoska  and 
Marcello  remained,  only  a  few  years  ago,  the  two  queens 
of  the  theatre  of  Warsaw.  Now  Marcello,  the  dark  beauty, 
reigns  alone.  Her  fair  rival  is  no  more.  Many  people  still 
remember  how  poor  Wisnoska  came  to  her  death.  A  Rus- 
sian officer  of  the  Guards,  who  for  a  long  time  had  been 
persecuting  her,  and  tormenting  her  with  his  jealousy,  one 
evening  entered  her  house  and  demanded  of  her  that  she 
should  give  up  all  and  everybody  for  his  sake  ;  if  not,  she 
would  not  escape  him  alive.  When  she  told  him  that  he  was 
quite  indifferent  to  her,  and  that  she  would  preserve  her 
freedom,  he  pulled  out  his  revolver,  and  was  cruel  enough  to 
keep  the  unhappy  woman  before  the  pistol-muzzle  all  through 
the  night ;  all  the  while  he  was  talking  and  drinking.  At 
length  she  understood  that  she  could  not  escape,  and  every 
quarter  of  an  hour  she  put  down  on  leaves,  which  she  tore 
out  of  her  note-book,  her  desperate  lamentations,  rolled  up 
the  leaves  and  threw  them  all  around  the  room  on  the  floor, 
that  they  might  be  found  after  her  death.  Towards  morning 
he  shot  her,  returned  to  the  barracks,  cried  out  to  his 
comrades :  "  I  have  shot  Wisnoska ! "  and  was  arrested  as 
soon  as  his  brother  officers,  who  thought  he  was  raving,  had 
inquired  into  the  matter  and  had  found  the  corpse.  In  the 
lower  as  well  as  in  the  two  superior  courts  he  was  sentenced 
to  twenty  years'  hard  labour.  However,  the  emperor  thought 
that  here  was  an  occasion  to  exercise  his  prerogative.  He 
commuted  the  sentence  and  condemned  the  culprit  to 
degradation.     He  was  reduced  to  the  ranks  ;   a  week  later 


124  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

he  was  promoted  sub-lieutenant,  another  week  later  lieu- 
tenant, and  in  this  way  justice  as  well  as  mercy  were 
satisfied.  Poor  Wisnoska !  Her  hair  was  so  rich  and  fair  ; 
her  eyes  so  blue,  and  her  smile  so  bright.  I  saw  her  before 
me,  beside  Marcello,  in  the  first  row  in  the  great  council 
hall  one  day  when  my  lecture  on  Polish  literature  was 
given  there.  Most  earnestly  she  clapped  her  hands, 
which  were  small  and  covered  with  delicate  grey  gloves. 
She  might  be  less  beautiful  than  Marcello,  but  as  an 
artist  she  was  certainly  more  gifted.  She  has  left  a  void — 
is  not  forgotten. 

We  need  not  go  to  Warsaw  for  society  ;  we  have  plenty 
of  neighbours  within  a  drive  of  a  couple  of  hours,  neighbours 
with  long,  curious  names  terminating  in  wtcz  and  ski. 
Nearly  all  the  landed  proprietors  about  here  are  enormously 
rich.  They  not  only  possess  extensive  properties,  which  they 
manage  together  with  their  sons,  with  great  skill,  but  gener- 
ally a  manufactory  of  beet-root  sugar  and  sometimes  of 
alcohol  is  connected  with  the  estate.  Beside  the  cornfields 
there  are  boundless  fields  of  beet-root  and  potatoes. 

The  culture  of  the  elder  generation  clings  to  democratic 
and  anticlerical  ideals.  A  particular  trait  in  the  old  gentle- 
men is  their  hatred  of  priests,  particularly  their  abhorrence 
and  dread  of  Jesuits.  It  always  excited  amazement  when, 
as  I  usually  do,  I  mentioned  the  Jesuits  with  a  certain  warmth 
and  admiration.  Most  of  the  squires  are  cast  in  one  mould, 
and  do  not  understand  these  fine  shades.  They  read  much, 
but  are  most  attracted  by  rather  coarse,  popular  books, 
directed  against  religious  and  political  prejudices.  They  are 
ardent  patriots,  anxiously  watching  the  political  horizon, 
hoping  to  discern  some  sign  of  better  times  for  Poland. 

The  younger  generation  is  practically  active  and  does 
not  care  much  for  politics ;  they  have  made  their  choice 
in  life.  In  the  elder  generation  the  men  are  more  interesting 
than  the  women  ;  in  the  younger  the  reverse  is  the  case. 
Though  what  is  known  elsewhere  in  Europe  as  the  emanci- 
pation of  women  is  prohibited  here,  their  independence  of 
thought  is  great,  certainly  not  inferior  to  what  it  is  in  the 
North,  and  the  level  of  culture  is  higher,  because  the  store  of 


POLISH    FEMININE    TYPES  125 

general  knowledge  is  greater,  not  to  mention  knowledge  of 
the  world.  The  young  women  speak  French  and  English 
besides  Polish,  not  like  languages  they  have  been  taught,  but 
as  they  speak  their  native  tongue,  and  they  are  familiar  with 
foreign  literature  because  all  their  leisure  time  is  spent  in 
reading,  and  they  know  the  different  countries  well,  having 
passed  at  least  one-third  of  their  life  in  travelling. 

Of  course  all  species  are  to  be  found  among  them;  not 
excepting  that  of  the  goose,  and  even  the  pretentious  goose 
conscious  of  beauty  and  of  descent  from  a  most  noble  gander  ; 
but  I  only  met  one  specimen  of  the  kind.  On  the  other 
hand  I  saw  a  couple  of  noble  falcons,  a  swan,  a  sphinx.  .  .  . 
Not  far  from  here  lives  a  young  girl  who  is  not  exactly 
beautiful,  but  so  graceful  that  every  moment  she  becomes 
so.  She  never  laughs,  and  her  face  is  without  a  smile, 
even  the  smile  of  courtesy  ;  she  never  speaks  except  when 
alone  with  one  person  ;  she  is  mute  as  a  fish  when  we 
assemble  in  the  saloon  or  at  table  ;  but  she  knows  to  a 
turn  the  value  of  every  person  and  every  circle  in  Warsaw, 
and  though  she  is  but  twenty-four  years  old,  she  is  as  in- 
dependent and  as  unprejudiced  in  her  ideas  as  a  clever  man 
of  forty.  She  has  read  all  the  most  daring  books  written  in 
the  last  twenty  years. 

And  some  few  miles  distant,  in  an  old  manor  house  with 
antique  furniture,  and  seven  straight  avenues  which  radiate 
from  the  lawn  before  the  house,  you  may  meet  a  young 
woman  of  thirty  years  of  age  who  lives  with  her  parents, 
separated  from  her  husband,  who  took  to  drinking  and 
squandered  her  fortune ;  and  this  young  woman  is  so  re- 
markable that  she  would  make  a  sensation  in  any  capital. 
She  is  dark  like  an  Italian,  with  a  figure  like  a  Roman, 
but  her  whole  personality  is  instinct  with  the  Slavonic  grace 
and  charm.  She  captivates  because  such  a  face  as  hers  has 
never  been  seen  before.  Her  mouth  especially  is  wonderfully 
expressive,  like  that  of  a  great  actress.  She  reminds  one  of 
bright  purple,  a  purple  poppy  with  an  intoxicating  perfume, 
and  she  has  a  most  melodious  voice.  Her  manner  is 
aristocratic,  quiet  and  self-contained.  Other  women  look 
meaningless  beside  her.     But  she  does   not   appear    to   be 


126  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

conscious  of  herself  as  an  exceptional  being.  In  my  eyes 
she  is  the  embodiment  of  the  spirit  of  Russian  Poland. 
From  her  radiates  all  its  southern  ardour,  its  Slavonic  grace, 
its  mysteriously  attractive  inner  life. 

For  this  is  certain :  although  Russian  Poland  is  oppressed 
and  tortured  as  is  neither  Prussian  Poland  nor  Austrian 
Galicia,  still  it  is  only  here  that  the  heart  of  Poland  is 
throbbing,  and  only  here  that  the  Polish  race  may  be 
studied  in  its  best  and  rarest  originality. 

In  Posen  and  East  Prussia  the  Polish  landed  proprietor 
is  impoverished  ;  generally  he  has  been  obliged  to  sell  his 
property  ;  the  Germans,  supported  by  the  means  of  the  state 
and  by  all  sorts  of  cunning  prohibitions,  with  the  hundred 
million  marks  of  the  state  in  reserve,  backed  by  the  passion 
of  the  German  propaganda,  have  bought  up  the  country  inch 
by  inch.  The  Polish  peasant  in  Prussia  is  trained  by  com- 
pulsory instruction,  and  is  on  that  account  more  cleanly 
and  prosperous  than  elsewhere,  but  the  Polish  population 
is  mixed  there.  The  nobles  are  brought  up  in  German 
schools  and  at  German  universities.  Galicia,  a  poor 
mountainous  district,  is,  as  an  Austrian  province,  negative. 
The  population  enjoys  full  national  and  civil  freedom. 
Polish  songs  are  sung  and  Polish  speeches  are  delivered 
freely  in  Austrian  Poland.  But  parties  fight  against  each 
other  with  an  unquenchable  hatred.  Cracow  is  the  strong- 
hold of  the  clerical  majority,  Lemberg  that  of  the  free-thinking 
minority.  Though  the  Galician  press  is  free,  it  is  never- 
theless worse  than  the  Russo- Polish,  because  its  contents 
consist  almost  entirely  of  personal  insults  occasioned  by  the 
party  strife.  In  Russian  Poland  the  press  is  fettered  to  such 
a  degree  that  it  has  been,  for  instance,  impossible  to  warn 
the  young  people  against  the  senseless  political  demonstra- 
tions, so  tragical  in  their  consequences,  to  which  they 
constantly  resort,  urged  on  by  the  women.  The  press  has 
not  dared  to  mention  these  demonstrations  with  a  single 
word,  and  still  it  is  better  than  the  Polish  press  in  Austria. 

The  Polish  vivacity  and  intellectual  charm  has  its  real 
home  in  the  kingdom  of  Poland — perhaps  because  only  here 
are  the  material  conditions    of  the  upper   classes    such    as 


WEALTH    OF    RUSSIAN    POLAND  127 

to  enable  them  to  lead  a  modern  life,  continuing  their  life 
during  the  Renaissance.  Russian  Poland  is  the  richest 
corn-growing  country  in  Europe.  Every  patch  of  ground 
is  fertile.  The  nobles  here  are  often  very  rich,  and  people 
enjoy  their  money.  A  host  of  servants,  as  is  well  known, 
are  kept  in  a  well-conducted  house  in  Poland,  the  houses 
being  almost  always  spacious,  with  many  spare  rooms.  The 
ladies  revel  in  beautiful  dresses.  They  dress  two  or  three 
times  in  the  day,  and  if  any  come  to  stay  for  some  time  in 
the  house,  they  have  as  much  luggage  as  Sarah  Bernhardt. 
The  ladies  of  this  house,  who  have  no  occasion  to  make 
themselves  smart,  have  appeared  in  fifty  different  dresses  at 
least.  On  my  putting  the  question  one  day  none  of  them 
knew  how  many  dresses  they  possessed.  It  is  still  more 
singular  to  see  that  the  gentlemen  change  their  dresses 
as  frequently.  None  of  them  own  less  than  two  dozen 
complete  costumes,  and  in  addition  wraps,  overcoats,  hunting 
and  riding  costumes.  In  this  particular  they  live  as  in 
the  time  of  Pan  Sopliga. 

None  of  them  would  be  impressed  by  the  cupboard  full 
of  boots,  with  which  Bourget's  Casal  is  supposed  to  overawe 
the  snobs. 

Between  the  three  parts,  into  which  the  ancient  Poland 
is  divided  and  which  are  so  closely  bound  together  by 
language  and  memories,  there  is  politically  not  the  slightest 
co-operation  ;  they  can  never  act  in  concert ;  they  have  not 
even  common  measures  and  coins  or  legal  regulations  or 
stamps — nothing  at  all  in  common  ;  not  even  a  man  who 
is  popular  in  all  three  countries  as  a  politician.  In  litera- 
ture there  is  after  all  but  one  name  which  unites  them  ; 
Sienkiewicz  has  by  degrees  become  the  jewel  in  the  crown  of 
Poland.    And  he  is  far  from  being  a  genius  of  the  first  rank. 

Nothing  material  is  done  to  unite  the  parts  of  the 
country  ;  only  ideal  means  are  possible.  There  is,  especially 
in  the  elder  generation,  a  group  of  patriotic  idealists,  valiant 
dreamers,  simple  and  hopeful  souls,  who  are  constantly 
travelling  about  between  the  severed  parts  of  the  land,  and 
who,  by  conversations,  bargains,  and  agreements  of  an 
innocent  nature,  keep  up  the  holy  fire.     The  great  exhibi- 


128  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

tion  in  Lemberg  is  an  outcome  of  their  exertions.  But  it 
cannot  be  denied  that  only  too  many  of  the  best  of  the 
younger  generation,  both  young  women  and  young  men, 
have  given  up  all  national  hope ;  have  ceased  to  watch  for 
gleams  of  light,  looking  upon  all  such  gleams  as  ignes  fatui. 
Openly  sceptical,  nay,  even  contemptuous,  they  are  melan- 
choly spectators  of  the  agitations  of  their  elders. 


IV 

POLAND  AND  FRANCE— POLAND  AND  GERMANY 

"Confess  that  our  Polish  cooking  is  excellent,"  said 
Madame  Halina. 

"  I  do  indeed,  I  think  it  the  best  in  the  world." 

"  That  all  our  dishes  are  original ! " 

"  I  admit  that  they  taste  very  good,  and  that  as  a  rule 
one  doesn't  know  what  they  are  made  of." 

"  Confess  that  our  soil  is  more  fruitful  than  any  other, 
that  our  scenery  has  a  style  and  an  attraction  of  its  own, 
and  that  it  is  more  spacious  than  any  other." 

"  I  agree  with  all  you  say.  Even  flatness  is  imposing 
here." 

"  Admit  that  our  language  is  flexible  and  beautiful,  soft 
and  malleable,  melodious  and  luxuriant,  even  if  it  has  not 
the  varied  rhythms  of  Russian." 

"  I  admit  that  your  speech  is  fascinating." 

"  Admit  that  no  other  people  dance  as  we  do.  Is  there 
any  dance  like  our  mazurka  ?  " 

"  I  am  hardly  a  judge,  but  I  am  inclined  to  think  most 
highly  of  Polish  dancing.  The  ballets  at  Warsaw  would 
be  hard  to  beat." 

"  Admit  that  our  women  are  beautiful ! " 

"  Beautiful  and  beautifully  dressed.  Who  could  question 
this  ?  " 

"Admit  that  our  men  are  intelligent  and  hospitable." 

"They  are  indeed.  But  what  do  you  want  with  all 
these  confessions  ?  " 

"  Admit  that  Nature  has  lavished  upon  us  all  the  gifts 
that  should  make  a  nation  happy.  We  are  cheerful, 
easily  pleased,  and  have  withal  the  imaginative  spark.    Why 

then  have  we  become  the  most   unhappy    race    on  earth  ? 

129  > 


130  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

For  has   there  ever  been  a  more  hapless  nation  than  ours 
in  all  the  history  of  the  world  ?  " 

"  I  doubt  it,  unless  perhaps  we  except  the  Jews,  who 
are  no  longer  a  nation." 

"Then  is  it  not  incredible,  inhuman,  that  all  Europe 
has  lost  interest  in  us,  that  no  one  will  lift  a  finger  in  our 
behalf  ?  I  am  not  thinking  of  the  Powers  responsible  for 
the  partition.  But  is  it  not  shameful  to  see  France  crawling 
on  her  belly  before  our  tyrant,  that  France  we  reverenced, 
fought  and  bled  for  ?  " 

Every  Polish  man  and  every  Polish  woman  is  cut 
to  the  heart  by  the  enthusiastic  servility  of  France 
to  Russia.  Nowhere  do  people  know  France  more 
thoroughly  than  here.  Educated  Poles  are  brought  up  in 
French  fashion,  they  speak  French  as  fluently  as  their  own 
tongue,  they  read  and  appreciate  French  books  more  than 
any  other  people.  It  is  for  these  very  reasons  that  the 
self-abasement  of  France  before  Russia  has  wounded  them 
so  deeply. 

No  people  in  the  world  ever  believed  so  firmly  in  France, 
or  sacrificed  themselves  so  cheerfully  for  Prance  as  the 
Poles.  Read  what  Henri  Houssaye  says  in  his  "1814." 
Whenever  things  were  most  desperate,  whenever  some 
forlorn  hope  or  the  personal  safety  of  the  Emperor  was 
in  question,  the  Polish  Lancers  were  always  to  the  fore. 
They  and  the  Vieille  Garde  were  always  the  last  resource. 
And  neither  ever  failed. 

A  Polish  woman,  a  woman  Napoleon  never  won, 
though  he  possessed  her,  and  whose  admiration  for  him 
never  became  love,  was  the  only  woman  who  visited  him  at 
Elba,  after  his  downfall. 

Poland  is  now  so  utterly  forgotten  by  the  French  that 
one  never  hears  her  mentioned  by  them.  They  know 
nothing  of  the  Poles,  and  it  is  impossible  to  get  an  article 
dealing  with  their  sufferings  inserted  in  any  French 
review.  Saoul  comme  un  Pobnais  (as  drunk  as  a  Pole)  is 
the  only  memento  of  them  that  lingers  in  the  national 
speech. 

It  has  actually  come  to  this,  that  French  newspapers, 


FRENCH    SUBSERVIENCE   TO    RUSSIA        131 

commenting  on  the  incessant  changes  of  ministry  in  their 
own  country,  remark  as  follows  : — 

"What  must  our  allies,  the  Russians,  think  of  us,  and 
of  these  ministries  that  change  every  year,  nay,  several 
times  in  one  year  !  With  them,  ministers  remain  in  office 
for  twenty  and  thirty  years."  If  the  French  were  governed 
for  six  months  on  the  same  lines  as  the  Russian  Poles, 
their  enthusiasm  for  Russian  methods  would,  no  doubt,  be 
considerably  modified ! 

What  would  the  French  say,  if  it  were  absolutely  for- 
bidden to  teach  the  French  language  in  any  French  school  ? 
Or  if  school-children  were  strictly  forbidden  to  talk  together 
in  their  native  tongue  in  the  playground  or  the  street  ? 
But  this  is  what  is  done  to  Polish  children. 

Or  if,  in  the  teaching  of  history,  the  name  of  their 
fatherland  were  never  mentioned,  if  its  history  were  treated 
as  non-existent,  and  all  the  energies  and  efforts  of  teachers 
were  directed  to  the  instilling  into  their  children  of  an 
idealised  history  of  a  foreign  race  ?  If  the  fate  of  Alsace 
and  Lorraine,  aggravated  a  thousandfold,  were  the  fate  of 
all   France ! 

This  summer  all  young  boys  were  refused  passports 
to  cross  the  frontier.  What  would  a  French  lady  say 
if  she  were  forbidden  to  cross  the  frontier  with  her  little 
son  ?  If  she  were  a  Pole,  she  would,  like  a  young  mother 
of  my  acquaintance,  simply  have  to  stay  at  home.  The 
authorities  were  afraid  that  the  boys  of  the  country  would 
be  taken  to  the  exhibition  at  Lemberg,  that  they  would 
witness  political  demonstrations,  hear  Polish  songs  and 
speeches — and  this  was  prevented  by  the  simple  device  of 
refusing  passports.  What  would  a  Frenchman  say,  if  all 
official  posts  of  distinction  and  lucrative  situations,  the 
army  and  the  navy,  and  the  higher  administrative  functions 
were  all  alike  closed  to  him  ?  if  the  State  forbade  him 
to  fill  any  post,  the  emoluments  of  which  exceed  1000 
rubles  ?  Yet  this  is  the  case  here.  No  Pole  receives  higher 
payment. 

When  the  State  recently  acquired  all  the  private  railways  in 
Poland,  the  whole  of  the  Polish  staff  without  exception  was 


132  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

dismissed  ;  hundreds  of  families  were  made  destitute.  In 
the  Postal  Service,  as  elsewhere,  the  promotion  of  Polish 
employe's  ceases  when  they  have  reached  a  salary  of  looo 
rubles. 

What  would  the  French  say  if  every  line  written  by 
them  for  a  newspaper  had  to  be  submitted  to  a  Govern- 
ment censor  before  publication,  and  if  their  authors  were 
punished  for  things  they  had  intended  to  print,  but  which 
had  never  appeared  ?     Such  things  are  the  rule  here. 

What  would  they  say  if  the  winter  and  summer  revues, 
so  popular  in  their  theatres,  had  to  be  absolutely  renounced  ? 
Here  no  such  things  as  revues  are  possible,  or  even  im- 
aginable. A  review  of  the  events  of  the  year  ?  What 
would  these  be  ?  There  are  no  public  men  in  Poland 
save  the  Government  officials,  and  their  names  may  not 
even  be  mentioned,  nor  their  actions  alluded  to,  in  a  news- 
paper article,  much  less  on  the  stage.  Parliament,  public 
meetings,  associations,  and  such  like,  which  furnish  material 
for  quips  elsewhere,  do  not  exist.  The  only  possible  topics 
would  be  purely  private  scandals,  but  the  Poles  are  not 
ignoble,  and  there  is  no  newspaper  among  them  answering 
to  such  a  sheet  as  the  Danish  Witzbl'itfern,  not  even  in 
Galicia,  where  personal  polemics  are  nevertheless  in  the 
blood. 

What  would  French  workmen  say  if  they  were 
absolutely  forbidden  to  found  any  union,  or  enter  into 
any  association  ?  If  a  strike  were  not  only  an  unimag- 
inable proceeding,  but  even  any  combined  discussion  of 
their  interests  were  impossible  ?  But  these  things  would 
be  impossible  to  them  if  they  were  governed  by  Russia. 
And  it  would  avail  them  little  to  protest  in  the  name  of 
the  right  of  public  meeting.  For  the  right  of  public 
meeting  is  unknown  here. 

Finally,  what  would  devout  French  Catholics  say,  if 
they  found  themselves  handed  over  to  the  supremacy 
of  the  Czar-Pope  ?  When  from  time  to  time  (as  happened 
this  spring  in  the  village  of  Kroze)  a  church  the  authorities 
have  determined  to  Russianise  is  surrounded,  and  the 
peasants  who  refuse  to   leave  it   and    give    it    up  are    shot 


INTOLERANCE   TOWARDS  CATHOLICS       133 

down  by  Cossacks  and  soldiers,  the  survivors  being  knouted, 
the  incident  goes  the  round  of  the  European  papers  for  a 
day  or  two,  and  readers  comfort  themselves  with  the  reflec- 
tion that  such  occurrences  are  exceptional. 

But  the  daily,  cold-blooded  annoyances  are  never  men- 
tioned. In  his  day,  Krasinski  called  Poland  the  land  of 
graves  and  crosses.  One  of  the  most  striking  characteristics 
of  Polish  landscapes  are  the  lofty  wooden  crosses.  They 
are  not  crucifixes,  as  in  Italy  and  Tyrol,  but  plain  crosses. 
If  such  a  cross  falls  down  or  decays,  it  might  be  sup- 
posed that  it  would  be  permissible  to  replace  it.  Not  with- 
out a  Government  permit,  and  this  is  not  easily  obtained. 
Two  years  ago  a  cross  of  this  kind  in  a  field  was  struck 
by  lightning.  It  has  been  lying  broken  ever  since  ;  the 
owners  dare  not  repair  it,  because  the  necessary  permission 
has  not  yet  been  forwarded  from  the  Government  offices 
in  St.  Petersburg.  If  it  had  been  a  St.  Andrew's  cross 
now  !  But  the  actual  one  is  looked  upon  as  a  Romish 
symbol !  Under  this  regime  even  the  cross  is  feared  as  a 
sign  of  insurrection. 

The  land  of  graves  and  crosses  !  If  they  try  to  restrict 
the  number  of  crosses,  the  graves  at  least  are  allowed  to 
multiply  freely.  In  1831  the  Russian  official  bulletin  ran 
as  follows : — L'ordre  regne  a  Varsovie.  Now  order  reigns  no 
longer,  but  cholera,  though  this  does  not  appear  in  the 
Russian  bulletins.  A  pedagogic  government  gives  the  number 
of  cases  and  of  deaths  as  it  pleases,  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
pacify  inquirers  in  Europe  and  abroad. 

Round  two  of  the  little  towns  in  this  district  a  military 
cordon  has  been  drawn.  No  one  is  permitted  to  leave  or 
to  enter  them,  and  the  inhabitants  are  dying  like  flies.  The 
spread  of  the  scourge  is  due  not  only  to  the  poverty  of  the 
people,  but  in  a  still  greater  degree  to  their  ignorance. 
When  once  the  disease  has  appeared,  it  is  impossible  to 
reason  with  them,  or  even  to  give  them  any  remedies. 
Neither  peasants  nor  servants  can  be  induced  to  give  up 
eating  fruit.  Cholera  is  fate,  they  say  ;  the  person  who  is 
to  get  it  will  have  it.  And  no  sick  person,  whatever  is 
the    matter   with    him,  will    swallow  a    drop    of    medicine. 


134  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

They  imagine  that  there  is  a  sort  of  conspiracy  to  get 
rid  of  those  afflicted  with  the  disease  as  quickly  as  possible, 
and  are  persuaded  that  anything  offered  them  by  a  stranger 
is  poison.     No  arguments  can  overcome  this  idea. 

But  who  is  to  blame  for  all  this  blind  ignorance  ? 

A  generation  back  all  the  hopes  of  the  Poles  centred 
in  France.  This  time  has  completely  gone  by.  The  then 
policy  of  the  Poles  in  Austria  and  Prussia  consisted 
of  a  mere  barren  opposition.  Whatever  the  respective 
Governments  proposed,  the  Polish  deputies  refused.  It  was 
in  Austria  that  this  policy  was  first  modified.  The  Poles 
were  granted  liberty  of  speech  and  action,  they  enccjuntered 
sympathy,  they  gradually  received  power,  and  became  con- 
tented. As  under  William  I.  the  Poles  could  always  reckon 
upon  ill-will  and  oppression  from  the  Government,  their 
activity  in  the  German  parliament  gradually  restricted  itself 
to  the  voting  of  perpetual  nays.  They  rarely  spoke,  know- 
ing the  futility  of  such  demonstrations,  and  being  more- 
over poor  orators.  It  was  not  until  Josef  Koscielski  became 
a  member  of  the  Reichstag  and  of  the  Upper  House  that 
these  tactics  were  changed.  He  became  intimate  with  the 
Bismarck  family  in  Berlin,  and  made  up  his  mind  to  bear 
the  displeasure  with  which  this  intimacy  was  regarded  by 
his  compatriots.  He  made  his  debut  in  the  Reichstag  as 
an  orator,  and  gained  the  ear  of  the  house  by  his  eloquence. 
After  the  fall  of  Bismarck  he  became  even  a  greater 
favourite  with  the  young  Emperor  than  he  had  been  in 
the  Bismarckian  circle.  He  and  his  young  wife  were  often 
invited  to  dine  alone  with  the  Emperor  and  Empress,  and 
even  now  that  he  has  retired  from  political  life  he  and 
his  are  frequently  the  guests  of  the  Imperial  family. 

Koscielski  met  the  wishes  of  the  Emperor  as  far  as  it  was 
possible  to  him,  and  influenced  the  Polish  party  to  vote  in 
the  same  sense.  Thus  he  voted  for  the  naval  grant,  a  service 
the  Emperor  rewarded  by  conferring  an  order  of  great  dis- 
tinction upon  him.  In  return,  as  is  well  known,  concessions 
were  made  to  the  Poles  as  regards  their  language  and 
their  Church.  For  the  first  time  after  a  very  long  interval, 
an  Archbishop  after  their  own  hearts  was  nominated.     And 


KOSCIELSKI  135 

for  this  they  had  to  thank  Koscielski.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  his  winning  personality  and  his  poHtical  tact  had  gained 
more  ground  for  them  than  they  had  conquered  since 
the  time  of  Frederick  WilHam  IV.,  whereas  the  voting 
of  an  extra  ship  or  two  to  the  fleet  did  them  not  the 
sHghtest  harm.  But  the  Poles  have  never  been  tacticians, 
and  Koscielski's  diplomacy  brought  him  contumely  rather 
than  popularity.  He  went  by  the  name  of  Admiralski  ever 
afterwards.  It  was  a  nickname  that  every  one  could  under- 
stand, and  that  the  meanest  wit  could  grasp.  Whenever 
he  voted  in  favour  of  a  Government  measure,  he  was 
looked  upon  with  suspicion.  Like  all  Poles,  he  had  a 
certain  Ibve  of  splendour,  and  he  was  perhaps  not  altogether 
unaffected  by  the  civilities  shown  him  at  Court.  The 
Poles  never  ceased  to  impress  upon  him  that  his  personal 
vanity  was  at  the  bottom  of  his  activity  in  Berlin,  and 
that  he  sacrificed  national  interests  to  his  own.  He  accord- 
ingly resigned  in  the  spring. 

He  justly  estimated  that  the  Poles,  having  nothing  to 
hope  for  from  France,  should  now  do  their  best  to  obtain 
concessions  from  Germany. 


J 


A  CHURCH    FESTIVAL— POPULAR    BELIEFS 

It  is  the  festival  of  forgiveness  in  the  church  to-day.  From 
early  in  the  morning  there  has  been  ringing  of  bells  and 
concourse  of  peasants  from  miles  round.  Outside  the  church 
of  Petrovice  sellers  have  run  up  small  booths  and  huts  for 
the  occasion,  where  all  sorts  of  things  are  offered  for  sale — 
holy  images,  rosaries,  cruciform  ornaments,  and  some  toys 
for  the  children  the  mothers  have  brought  with  them,  but 
all  so  infinitely  poor  that  there  was  scarcely  anything  to  be 
had  above  a  penny  in  price.  It  was  most  disheartening 
to  look  at  the  pictures  suspended  beneath  the  eaves  of  an 
old  hovel  —  lithographs  of  the  worst  and  most  tasteless 
paintings,  and  of  daubs  almost  blasphemous  in  their  em- 
bodiment of  bland  Virgins  and  insipid  Saviours.  On  closer 
inspection  we  discovered  with  surprise  that  this  factory  work 
was  marked  not  only  Paris,  but  most  of  it  even  New  York. 
It  is  the  indefatigable  Yankees,  brave  Protestants,  who  are 
sitting  on  the  other  side  of  the  ocean,  gaining  money  by 
making  hundreds  of  thousands  of  holy  pictures  for  the 
Catholics  in  old  Europe.  No  wonder  that  they  are  hideous. 
Even  a  lithograph  of  the  most  nauseous  Carlo  Dolci  would 
be  a  relief  among  them. 

The  church  is  overcrowded  ;  the  doors  are  wide  open, 
and  a  large  column  of  men  and  women  crowd  before  them 
to  catch  as  much  of  the  sermon  as  possible.  But  besides,  all 
over  the  square  in  front  of  the  church  a  whole  little  popula- 
tion is  standing,  sitting,  and  kneeling,  uncovered,  in  deep 
devotion.  All  round  lie  beggars ;  about  eighteen  have 
arrived  in  a  covered  cart ;  disgusting  cripples  with  naked 
arms  or  bandaged  legs  ;  the  whole  crowd  of  palsied  beings 
on  whom  the  Son  of  Man  worked  His  miracles  in  days  of 

yore.     Near  the  church  a  chapel  has  been  run  up  by  its 

X36 


A   POLISH   "PARDON"  137 

master-mason,  who  is  making  repairs  in  it,  and  who  desires 
to  display  his  pious  disposition  ;  on  the  chapel  is  a  wooden 
crucifix,  a  monster  of  tastelessness  ! 

All  sense  of  art  and  beauty  seems  quenched  in  the 
common  people.  How  lively  was  formerly  their  sense  of 
beauty  ;  how  handsome  and  becoming  the  national  dress 
which  the  Russians  have  now  strictly  forbidden  !  What  a 
picturesque  figure  the  peasant  of  Galicia  still  is  in  his  white 
coat  ornamented  with  red,  and  with  his  large  felt  hat ! 
Here  the  peasant  now  wears  the  most  horrible  cap  and  a 
dress  without  cut  or  character  ;  while  the  women  and  the 
girls,  who  have  been  deprived  of  their  national  costume, 
have  a  predilection  for  loud  yellow  and  crude  green. 

They  all  walked  about,  looking  at  the  stalls  and  bargain- 
ing, now  and  then  buying  some  pastry,  and  some  of  the  fruit 
offered  in  spite  of  the  prohibition.  But  the  forbidden  fruit 
has  here,  as  elsewhere,  its  particular  charm.  The  people  of 
the  manor  erected  a  booth  at  which  bottles  of  boiled  water, 
with  peppermint  and  brandy  to  flavour  them,  were  offered 
gratis  ;  the  object  was  to  prevent  the  dangerous  drinking 
of  water.  The  peasants  drank  eagerly,  contrary  to  our 
expectations. 

For  several  hours  our  ladies  had  sat  in  their  church, 
in  spite  of  the  heat  and  bad  air.  We  men  did  not  go 
in,  until  the  great  mass  at  the  very  last.  The  sight  from 
the  altar  of  the  church  was  picturesque.  Just  behind  the 
priest  sat  the  ladies,  some  from  the  neighbouring  estates 
with  their  husbands  ;  they  were  festively  dressed,  but  their 
devotion  did  not  appear  to  be  intense.  Then  the  peasants, 
men,  women,  and  children,  head  beside  head,  as  many  as  the 
church  could  contain,  the  white,  yellow,  and  pink  headgear 
of  the  women  gleaming,  among  brown  men's  faces 
with  thick  long  moustaches,  all  kneeling  down,  then  rising, 
then  bending  their  heads  to  fall  again  on  their  knees,  sway- 
ing like  corn  in  the  wind.  Above  them  sounded  the 
hymn,  one  of  the  most  ancient  of  Polish  linguistic  monu- 
ments, music  and  simple  words  dating  from  the  tenth 
century :  "  Holy  God,  mighty  God  !  Deliver  us  from  plague, 
from  famine  and  from  war.    God,  the  Almighty  ! " 


138  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

It  goes  back  to  the  time  -when  Poland  was  first  afflicted 
with  the  plague,  and  has  a  new  actuality  in  these  days. 

The  sermon  was  not  bad,  impressing  upon  the  hearers 
that  religious  exercises  and  church-attendance  count  for 
little  in  comparison  to  one's  life  and  acts.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  priest,  who  celebrated  the  mass,  with  his  stupid 
expression,  his  thick  cheeks  'and  his  fat  figure  was  grotesque, 
and  his  way  of  pronouncing  Latin  utterly  rustic.  All  that 
stood  for  art  in  the  church  was  glaring  and  in  bad  taste  ; 
— the  wall-paintings,  the  pictures  on  the  banners  waving 
above  the  congregation  ;  but  beautiful  were  the  living  decora- 
tions of  flowers  and  green  round  the  pillars,  and  the  blooming 
oleanders  in  flower-pots  before  the  altar. 

Our  own  little  priest  was  not  officiating  that  day.  He 
was  the  host,  and  chiefly  taken  up  with  the  great  dinner  of 
forty  persons,  which  he  was  to  give  after  the  service.  He 
knelt  down  with  the  others,  but  I  read  his  thoughts.  He 
never  speaks  of  his  faith,  but  from  what  he  says,  we  feel  that 
he  thinks  like  the  rest  of  us.  It  is  always  thus  with  the 
priests  who  have  studied  for  several  years  in  Rome.  A  stay 
there  is  more  beneficial  to  intellect  than  to  faith.  This  is 
strongest  in  the  poor  creatures  who  ascend  the  pulpit  directly 
from  the  Polish  seminaries.  For  the  rest,  the  poor  priests 
had  a  hard  day.  Not  less  than  four  hundred  peasants 
came  to  confession,  and  there  were  but  thirteen  priests 
to  confess  them.  They  were  ready  to  drop  with  fatigue. 
Fortunately  they  consoled  themselves  afterwards. 

No  greater  contrast  can  be  imagined  than  that  between 
the  Polish  and  the  Russian  peasant  in  relation  to  religion  and 
its  expounders.  However  orthodox  the  Russian  peasant  may 
be,  to  him,  as  to  the  Russians  in  general,  the  priest  is  a  most 
inferior  creature,  half  comical,  half  despicable.  It  is  a 
bad  omen  to  meet  him.  The  Russian  priest  does  not  differ 
much  from  the  peasant  as  to  culture  ;  but  having  more  money, 
it  is  easier  for  him  to  get  drunk,  and  in  reality  his  life  consists 
in  the  main  of  carouses  and  sleeping  ofl^  their  effects  ;  but 
the  Polish  peasant  venerates  his  priest.  Nay,  the  authority 
of  the  Catholic  priest  is  the  only  one  that  has  remained 
absolutely  undisputed  in  Poland  at  all  times.     It  is  within  his 


RUSSIAN  AND  POLISH   PRIESTS  COMPARED     139 

power  to  put  the  peasant  into  the  mood  he  desires.  This 
always  becomes  apparent  after  confession.  When  a  theft  has 
been  committed,  it  constantly  happens  that  the  priest  brings 
back  the  stolen  object.  The  peasant  does  not  bring  it  him- 
self, but  in  his  anguish  he  gives  it  to  the  priest  that  the 
latter  may  forward  it  to  its  owner. 

The  piety  of  the  Russian  peasant  does  not  exclude 
certain  tricks  and  a  good  deal  of  sharp  practice  in  his 
dealings  with  the  saints. 

A  Russian  peasant  with  horse  and  cart  had  got  upon 
the  ice,  which  was  about  to  break  up,  and  in  his  distress  he 
promised  St.  Nicholas  the  value  of  the  horse,  if  he  reached 
the  shore  alive  with  his  vehicle.  This  he  did,  and 
now  his  main  thought  was  how  to  get  out  of  this  scrape 
without  breaking  his  word  to  the  saint.  The  horse  was 
worth  more  than  a  hundred  rubles,  and  this  was  a  loss  he 
did  not  like  to  suffer.  At  last  he  hit  on  a  way  of  escape.  He 
went  to  the  fair  with  his  horse  and  soon  found  a  purchaser. 
"  How  much  do  you  want  for  your  horse  ?  "  asked  the  latter. — 
"  Five  rubles,"  was  the  answer. — "  Five  rubles  ?  You  are  not 
in  earnest ;  but  of  course  I  will  pay  that." — "Very  well," 
said  the  peasant  ;  "  but  I  have  decided  not  to  sell  it  without 
this  hen,  which  I  have  on  my  back." — "  And  what  is  the 
price  of  the  hen  ?  " — "  Ninety-five  rubles."  The  bargain  was 
made  and  the  saint  got  his  five  rubles. 

The  Polish  peasant  is  more  artless  with  his  saints.  He 
has  not  the  fire  and  fervour  of  invocation  of  the  Italian 
peasant,  but  he  kneels  lost  in  supplication  before  their 
images.     This  was  evident  yesterday. 

After  the  service  the  great  dinner  for  all  the  clergy  took 
place  at  the  young  priest's  house.  The  chief  landed 
proprietors  of  the  neighbourhood  were  also  present,  forty 
persons  in  all,  as  mentioned.  As  our  young  priest  has  only 
an  annual  salary  of  1 50  rubles,  and  with  all  his  perquisites 
does  not  get  more  than  six  or  seven  hundred  rubles,  it  is  im- 
possible for  him  to  give  such  dinners.  But  the  custom  is 
to  send  him  all  the  meat  and  drink  he  wants  from  the 
manor,  also  table  linen,  dishes,  plates,  and  glasses.  The 
thing  was  particularly  difficult  yesterday,  because  the  festival 


140  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

fell  on  a  Friday,  so  that  there  could  be  no  meat.  Our  lady- 
had  sent  for  four  or  five  different  sorts  of  fish,  and  from 
the  day  before  all  was  activity  in  the  house.  Our  cook, 
who  has  studied  his  art  in  Paris,  and  who  moreover  is  both 
baker  and  confectioner,  excelled  himself.  The  salmon  and 
the  pike  were  lying,  mighty  in  circumference,  on  heavy 
dishes  ;  the  wine  was  rolled  in  barrels  from  the  cellar ;  and 
from  early  morning  all  the  servants  were  hurrying  to  and  fro 
in  an  endless  procession,  carrying  dishes  and  baskets  filled 
with  all  sorts  of  good  things,  between  the  manor  and  the 
parsonage. 

The  thirteen  priests  and  the  other  great  folks  were  soon 
seated  in  two  spacious  rooms  to  celebrate  the  fast-day.  In 
the  sermon  it  had  been  said  that  the  truly  religious  man 
is  not  gloomy  and  choleric,  but  always  cheerful,  and  about 
this  many  a  merry  speech  was  made  during  the  meal.  But 
it  is  fair  to  say,  they  ate  more  than  they  spoke,  and  they 
drank  more  than  they  ate.  Burgundy  and  Bordeaux  and 
Hungarian  hock  disappeared  so  hastily  behind  the  clerical 
waistcoats  that  every  now  and  then  an  express  was  despatched 
to  the  manor  with  a  slip  of  paper  requiring  this  and  that 
from  the  cellar.  They  drank  hard  like  good  Poles,  and 
nevertheless  nobody  spoke  a  word  too  loudly,  because  the 
young  priests  were  shy  of  exposing  themselves  before  their 
superiors,  and  these  did  not  forget  to  keep  up  the  respect 
due  to  themselves.  But  to  see  my  friend  Franciszek  at  the 
top  of  the  table,  presiding  at  this  clerical  dinner,  having 
his  health  proposed  as  the  giver  of  the  festival,  as  the 
patron  of  the  Church,  as  the  great  religious  benefactor  of 
the  country !  What  may  a  worldling  not  become,  if  he  is 
rich,  clever,  and  lavish  ! 

Certainly  several  of  the  priests  were  no  more  believing 
than  he.  The  more  gifted  of  them  had  all  gone  through 
the  Roman  school.  But  no  experience  shakes  the  faith 
of  the  common  people.  Things  the  most  contrary  to  reason 
and  the  most  cruel  are  to  him  but  further  evidences  of  the 
care  of  Providence.  Listen  to  this  Polish  legend,  which 
Sienkiewicz  has  introduced  in  his  tales : — 

A  peasant  boy  discovered  one  day,  when  passing  a  hollow 


A   LEGEND  OF   DEATH  141 

tree,  that  somebody  was  within  the  trunk.  He  approached 
and  found  that  it  was  Death,  who  had  fallen  asleep  there. 
He  quickly  put  a  plug  into  the  hole,  and  when  Death 
awoke,  he  was  a  captive.  From  that  moment  there  was 
exultation  in  the  village.  No  more  death  ;  no  funerals  ;  no 
mourners.  But  the  joy  only  lasted  for  a  time.  As  nobody 
died,  everything  was  overcrowded  and  the  soil  could  not 
supply  food  enough  for  so  many.  It  then  became  necessary 
to  draw  out  the  plug.  Death  got  his  liberty  ;  he  hurried  to 
Christ  and  requested  orders  as  to  whom  he  was  first  to 
mow  down.  Christ  pronounced  a  name.  It  was  that  of 
a  mother  of  five  children,  and  when  Death  came  to  her,  she 
was  terrified,  not  so  much  for  her  own  sake,  as  for  her  little 
children's.  She  fell  on  her  knees,  and  implored  Death,  saying : 
"  You  see,  yourself,  that  it  would  be  a  cruelty  to  take 
me.  What  will  become  of  my  five  babes  when  I  am 
gone  ;  who  is  to  provide  for  them  ?  They  will  perish  miser- 
ably. I  entreat  you,  go  away  I "  Then  Death  hastened 
anew  to  Christ,  in  spite  of  the  command  he  had  received, 
explained  the  case,  and  asked  for  orders.  Christ  first 
gave  Death  two  strong  boxes  on  his  ears  for  his  dis- 
obedience [the  rustic  experience  lies  behind  this  trait]  and 
then  said  .  "  Fly  over  the  ocean  ;  go  diving  where  it  is 
deepest,  and  bring  me  the  little  white  stone  you  will  find 
there."  Death  did  as  he  was  bidden  ;  found  the  stone,  and 
brought  it.  Christ  said :  "  Crack  it  with  your  teeth." 
It  was  hard  for  the  fleshless  lips  of  Death,  but  it  was 
cracked,  and  within  was  a  little  white  living  worm  (!).  Then 
Christ  said,  "  There,  you  see.  I  knew  that  in  this  little  stone 
was  a  worm,  and  think  you  that  I,  who  know  this,  should  not 
have  thought  of  the  fate  of  the  five  little  children,  who  will 
become  motherless  at  my  command.  Get  on  !  and  kill  the 
mother  immediately  ! " 

Such  faith  in  the  common  people  is  very  necessary 
that  they  may  not  lose  confidence  in  the  decrees  of  Provid- 
ence in  a  land  and  under  a  rule  where  it  cannot  be  said 
that  the  finger  of  Providence  is  particularly  perceptible. 


VI 

THE  MEMORIAL   PROCESSION   OF    1894— 
PAINTERS   AND   WRITERS 

The  middle  of  summer  is  over,  and  authors,  poets, 
journalists  begin  to  return  to  Warsaw.  It  is  impossible 
to  show  oneself  in  a  restaurant  without  being  overwhelmed 
with  embraces  and  men's  kisses  on  both  cheeks,  always 
to  the  same  tune:  "What  treason  to  come  to  Warsaw 
when  everybody  is  absent ! "  And  then  all  sluices  of  con- 
versation are  opened,  and  the  stranger,  so  long  solitary,  is 
at  once  initiated  into  all  sorts  of  literary  affairs,  hundreds 
of  family  stories,  scores  of  political  misfortunes  and  intrigues, 
and  international  farrago  concerning  remuneration,  pub- 
lishers, rivalries,  and  what  not.  Many  half-forgotten  and 
half-effaced  figures,  fates  and  names,  rise  anew  in  one's 
memory,  and  at  last  it  appears  as  if  one's  absence  had 
been  but  of  a  few  weeks,  though  it  covers  a  space  of 
seven  years. 

The  latest  event  is  the  arrest  of  a  young  medical  man. 
At  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  two  police  officials  arrived 
with  their  subordinates  and  set  on  foot  an  investigation  in 
his  home,  rummaged  everything,  seized  all  his  papers,  even 
tore  off  the  green  cloth  on  his  writing-table  in  order  to 
look  for  papers  beneath  it,  and  then  carried  him  off  to  the 
citadel.  The  two  officials  have  since  remained  in  the 
dwelling,  of  which  they  have  made  a  kind  of  a  trap  ;  the  first 
few  days  they  arrested  every  one  who  entered  the  house — 
patients,  friends,  and  acquaintances,  to  examine  them. 

Nobody  knows  why  ;  but  they  fear  that  he  has  collected 

money    for    the    young    men    and    young    girls    who    were 

banished  on  account  of  the  procession  in  memory   of    the 

revolt    in    1794.       These    raids    are    always    made    during 

the  night.     Sometimes  the  matter  takes  on  a  certain  humour, 

X49 


POLICE    RAIDS  143 

namely,  when  the  police  are  on  the  wrong  tack  and 
nothing  is  to  be  found.  Such  was  the  case  with  one  of 
my  friends,  the  author  Gavalewicz,  whose  house  they  searched 
for  some  leaves  of  manuscript  to  compare  with  the  manu- 
script of  an  anti-Russian  article  printed  in  a  paper 
at  Cracow,  which  the  police  had  got  hold  of,  nobody 
knew  how.  Gavalewicz  remained  in  bed  during  the 
search,  while  his  little  servant  in  the  kitchen  was  cross- 
examined  about  every  one  who  came  to  the  house  ;  now  and 
then  the  commissaire  came  into  his  bedroom  and  asked 
for  a  cigarette  ;  or  one  of  the  subordinates  came  to  tell 
him  he  might  be  easy,  the  search  had  not  revealed  anything 
bad.  At  last  this  man  accepted  three  rubles,  and  the 
company  trudged  off,  the  commissaire  having  asked  for  a 
leaf  of  G.'s  manuscript  "as  a  keepsake."  As  if  anybody 
here  were  stupid  enough  to  send  articles  to  Cracow  in 
his  own  handwriting  ! 

But  this  time  the  search  was  not  of  so  mild  a  nature  ; 
it  extended  to  the  rooms  of  a  student  named  Stefan  Bein, 
who  was  living  opposite,  on  the  same  floor.  After  having 
searched  here  until  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  without 
having  found  anything,  the  policeman  approached  him  and 
said:  "What  is  your  name  again?"  He  told  his  name. — 
"  Stefan,  you  say?  No,  Stanislaw?" — **  My  name  is  Stefan." — 
"  Then  I  beg  you  to  excuse  us.  The  search-warrant  is  made 
out  in  the  name  of  Stanislaw."  Of  course  it  was  a  lie,  but 
in  this  way  they  covered  their  vexation  at  having  searched 
in  vain. 

If  we  consider  the  real  cause  of  all  this  to-do,  the  most 
piteous  image  of  the  misery  of  Poland  takes  on  a  tragi- 
comic aspect.  Everything  that  day  was  set  in  motion  by  a 
lady,  who,  being  old  and  ugly,  wanted  at  any  price,  even 
the  highest,  to  be  talked  of,  and  who,  accordingly  went  in 
for  patriotism.  She  got  the  idea  of  arranging  a  mourning 
mass  with  a  procession.  Her  son  is  a  student,  and  many 
of  his  friends  came  to  the  house.  One  of  them  went 
to  a  priest  to  buy  a  mass  without  the  latter  suspecting 
anything.  He  and  his  fellow-priests,  who  now  all  are 
deported,  were  as  innocent  as  children.     It  was   not   until 


144  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

he  turned  round  during  the  mass  and  saw  the  church  full 
of  people,  among  them  two  or  three  hundred  students  in 
uniforms,  that  he  guessed  he  had  fallen  into  a  trap.  She 
had  done  her  best  to  collect  people,  and  was  utterly  dis- 
gusted at  the  cowardice  of  those  who  declared  that  they 
preferred  to  stay  at  home. 

In  the  papers  it  had  been  announced  among  the  adver- 
tisements, and  not  in  the  text,  that  the  mass  was  to  be  cele- 
brated in  thankful  memory  of  the  escape  from  death  of  a 
little  girl,  whose  name  was  added ;  but  this  name  did  not 
strike  the  advertisement  censor,  though  it  at  once  caught  the 
attention  of  those  familiar  with  the  history  of  Poland,  because 
in  1794,  when  the  revolt  broke  out,  this  child  was  by  a 
mere  chance  ridden  down  by  a  whole  squadron  of  Cossacks, 
and  drawn  forth  unhurt  from  beneath  the  horses.  Con- 
sequently the  readers  understood  that  the  mass  was  a  com- 
memorative festival,  and  on  that  account  the  church  was 
crowded. 

From  the  church  the  procession  went  to  the  historical 
house  of  the  shoemaker  Kilinski,  in  the  old  market-place. 
Before  it  all  took  off  their  hats  respectfully.  But  as  if  no 
sordid  element  should  be  wanting  in  this  miserable  parody  of 
a  political  action,  the  house  where  the  shoemaker  lived  a 
hundred  years  ago  has  now  become  a  house  of  ill-fame. 
The  inmates,  who  saw  the  procession  approaching  and 
noticed  the  salutations,  believing  that  this  was  some  youthful 
frolic  or  other,  kissed  their  hands  to  the  young  people  from 
the  windows,  and  laughed.  Then  the  police  made  its  raid 
and  arrested  all  of  them. 

So  insecure  do  the  Russians  still  feel  that  this  foolish 
and  pathetically  ridiculous  demonstration  alarmed  them. 
When  Gurko  who  was  abroad  heard  of  it  he  was  beside 
himself  with  despair.  "  This  proves,"  he  cried,  "  that  my 
labour  of  ten  years  has  been  in  vain."  And  he  continued, 
*'  We  are  now  forced  to  use  measures  of  the  utmost  severity." 
— "  The  more  so,"  added  one  of  his  sons,  "  because  Poland 
is  our  bulwark  against  Europe." — "  You  ought  to  move  your 
bulwark  a  good  way  back,"  observed  a  stranger.  He  received 
no  answer. 


VISITORS    FROM    WARSAW  145 

And  all  this  on  account  of  a  mere  trifle  !  Here  in  Poland 
the  sublime  is  often  closely  akin  to  the  ridiculous.  I  could 
not  refrain  from  thinking  of  the  finding  of  the  corpse  of 
Joseph  Poniatowski  in  the  Elster.  Very  possibly  the  general 
looked  something  like  the  equestrian  statue  by  Thorwaldsen 
in  real  life,  though  this  made  him  considerably  younger 
than  he  was.  But  the  corpse  was  not  to  be  recognised. 
Everything  about  him  was  a  sham.  He  wore  a  wig  ;  his 
moustaches  and  eyebrows  were  false,  and  being  bent  and 
feeble,  he  was  tightly  laced  in  a  corset.  It  was  owing 
to  a  valuable  watch  that  he  was  recognised.  Some  days 
ago  I  visited  the  little  country  house  where  he  lived. 
Its  exterior  consists  wholly  of  secret  exits  and  entrances. 
He  was  a  pasha  of  many  tails,  but  a  good  soldier,  at  once 
ridiculous  and  heroic. 

When  authors  from  Warsaw  come  to  see  us  here  in  the 
country,  we  have  much  difficulty  with  them.  They  cannot 
bear  to  be  away  from  the  capital  more  than  one  day  ;  they 
miss  their  friends  and  their  amusements.  But  if  one  of  them 
stays  from  Saturday  evening  until  Monday  morning,  it  is 
sufficient  generally;  in  that  time  he  tells  us  all  that  he  knows. 

The  painters  enjoy  a  stay  in  the  country  more ;  we  have 
quite  a  little  colony  of  them  here  at  a  time — three  young 
men  and  a  lady. 

At  meals  we  do  not  talk  much,  as  the  servants  under- 
stand French ;  but  later,  when  we  are  taking  coffee  in  the 
library,  or  on  the  veranda,  or  when  on  rainy  days  we  gather 
in  the  winter-garden,  where  there  is  a  fragrance  as  in  Zola's 
hothouse,  and  where  not  even  a  polar-bear's  skin  is  wanting, 
these  visitors  relate  the  adventures  of  the  summer. 

The  painter  Witoid  says:  "You  have  heard  of  my 
gaining  much  money  of  late  years  by  official  orders.  This 
is  true.  I  have  had  a  large  income,  but  it  was  dearly  pur- 
chased. I  was  staying  in  Paris,  and  for  the  first  time  in  my 
life  I  had  exhibited  a  military  picture  in  St.  Petersburg  (you 
know  I  never  paint  anything  else)  when  I  received  a  telegram 
summoning  me,  as  the  great  personage  you  know  of  wished 
to  see  me,  I  arrived.  My  picture  was  bought  for  12,000 
rubles,  and  I  got  an  order  for  a  battle-piece  from  the  Russo- 

K 


146  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

Turkish  war  ;  the  field  of  battle  was  in  Roumania.  I  went 
down  there,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  to  no  purpose,  the  battle- 
field being  but  a  common  meadow  with  some  rising  ground 
far  in  the  background.  I  took  great  pains  with  the  picture 
and  delivered  it.  New  telegram.  The  great  personage 
wished  to  have  more  soldiers  in  the  picture.  You  who 
know  how  great  he  is,  understand  that  any  objection  was 
impossible.  I  had  to  repaint  the  whole  picture,  to  put  more 
soldiers  into  it,  and  it  is  now  without  any  artistic  value. 
Then  came  a  new  order  :  Suworow  crossing  the  Alps.  That 
is  a  period  which  I  have  at  the  ends  of  my  fingers  and 
which  I  adore.  I  know  every  incident,  every  button  on  each 
uniform.  I  studied  the  landscape,  finished  the  picture  and 
delivered  it.  True  to  fact  I  put  Suworow  on  a  simple  Cossack 
horse  ;  he  never  rode  any  other,  and  changed  every  day. 
The  horse  was  brown,  because  this  colour  looked  best  against 
the  light  background.  New  telegram  ;  they  wanted  to  see 
me  ;  demanded  alterations.  First  a  general  came  ;  asked 
why  Suworow  was  on  a  brown  horse  and  not,  according  to 
tradition,  on  a  white  one  ?  I  answered,  '  Because  tradition  is 
false;  he  always  rode  Cossack  horses.  The  horse  is  brown 
because  it  agrees  with  the  colour-harmony  of  the  picture.' 
Audience  ;  new  questions  ;  the  same  answer.  Order  to  put 
Suworow  on  a  white  horse.  I  obeyed,  though  it  looks 
damnable.  New  order :  Storming  of  a  Turkish  redoubt, 
1878.  I  executed  it  ;  put  the  redoubt  in  the  foreground,  to 
the  right ;  very  picturesque  ;  turbans,  caps,  cannons,  silk 
banners,  confusion.  Russian  columns  advancing  at  the 
double  from  the  background.  I  deliver  the  picture.  Tele- 
gram :  my  presence  demanded.  I  arrive ;  they  are  much 
pleased,  but  request,  nevertheless,  an  alteration.  The 
Russians  in  the  foreground,  the  miserable  Turks  in  the 
background  ;  quite  another  picture,  you  see.  This,  too,  I 
finished  and  got  15,000  rubles  for  it  ;  but  it  is  a  poor  affair, 
I  am  sorry  to  say." 

The  author  Olgerd :  "  Do  not  believe  that  he  troubles 
himself  on  that  account.  He  is  like  our  painters  in  Munich ; 
they  do  not  care  a  fig  for  art  if  they  only  make  money. 
They  paint  a  Lithuanian  hunting-party  in  a  snow  scene.     A 


PAINTERS    AND    WRITERS  147 

dealer  who  sees  that  the  picture  takes  greatly,  immediately 
orders  fourteen  copies  for  America.  They  get  5000  marks  for 
each,  and  they  paint  the  same  Lithuanian  hunting-party  in  a 
snow  scene  all  the  year  round." 

"  Alas,  such  is  the  case  !  It  is  certainly  not  to  be  denied," 
says  Madame  Jozefa,  "that  I  remember  distinctly  from  my 
long  stay  in  Munich,  and  that  is  what  I  despise  in  our 
painters,  those  in  Munich  as  well  as  elsewhere." 

"Don't  you  talk,  Madame  Jozefa.  While  we  paint,  you 
do  nothing  but  order  new  dresses  from  your  dressmakers." 

"  Exactly,  and  it  does  me  credit.  It  is  never  the  same  dress, 
mind.  You  compose  a  picture,  a  book.  This  is  impossible  to 
us.  But  we,  too,  are  artists  in  our  little  way.  We  compose 
dresses  for  ourselves.  This  is  not  only  an  occupation,  but 
free  poetical  composition.  We  use  all  our  talent  in  com- 
posing, in  the  blending  of  colours,  in  the  harmony  of  the 
whole,  and  we  never  repeat  ourselves,  not  even  after  the 
lapse  of  weeks." 

Olgerd  turned  to  me.  "  You  saw  me  the  other  day 
at  Warsaw  in  the  Caf6  Europeiski  lunching  with  my  editor 
and  a  gentleman  with  a  beard.  Do  you  know  who  he  was  ? 
The  Russian  censor,  who  has  the  superintendence  of  our 
journal.  I  had  invited  him  to  lunch  ;  was  obliged  to  do  so. 
So  far  we  have  got.  So  low  we  have  fallen.  The  Polish 
lion,  once  so  feared,  has  become  a  poodle  that  can  fetch 
and  carry." 

"When  you  were  last  here,"  continues  the  young  poet 
Mikola,  "  we  were  allowed  to  take  in  the  papers  we  chose  in 
the  editorial  office.  Now  there  is  a  list  of  those  allowed, 
and  they  are  not  numerous.  It  is  absolutely  forbidden  to 
take  in  any  Galician  paper,  as  well  as  to  reprint  any  article 
from  these.  If  some  cutting  of  such  a  paper  is  found  in 
a  registered  letter  addressed  to  us,  which  is  opened  at  the 
post-office,  we  have  to  pay  a  fine,  even  if  we  never  asked  to 
have  it  sent.  The  person  addressed,  not  the  sender,  is 
punished.  If  it  happens — and  this  may  be  the  case — that 
one  of  our  correspondents  in  Galicia,  out  of  laziness,  in- 
stead of  communicating  some  piece  of  news  in  his  own 
words,  uses  expressions  he  has  just  read  in  a  Galician  paper, 


148  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

then  we  are  severely  punished  for  his  neglect  and  indif- 
ference. His  text  is  compared  with  the  Austro  -  Polish 
paper,  similarities  are  found,  and  the  storm  breaks  over 
our  heads.  The  fine  for  this  mistake  is  from  a  thousand  to 
fifteen  hundred  rubles.  And  it  may  become  worse  ;  we  may 
live  to  see  the  Polish  tongue  absolutely  prohibited,  as  is  now 
the  case  with  Little  Russian  ;  it  is  forbidden  now  to  speak 
Polish  in  the  street  in  Lithuania,  Podolia,  and  Wolhynia. 
Even  now  instruction  is  given  in  the  Russian  language  in 
the  deaf  and  dumb  institution  here.  And  see  how  insipid 
our  authors  become.  You  know  as  well  as  I  our  great 
friend  Alexander  S.,  with  his  lyrical  eyes  and  his  radical 
mouth.  Compare  his  style  of  to-day  with  that  of  seven  or 
eight  years  ago,  and  you  will  perceive  the  decline.  We  have 
fixed  all  our  hopes  on  the  great  war,  so  long  expected." 

"  We  will  say  nothing  of  the  war,"  says  Olgerd  ;  "  we 
believe  that  it  will  come,  but  talking  will  not  hasten  it. 
We  have  become  a  country  which  does  not  exist  in  the 
present,  but  partly  in  olden  times,  partly,  and  ever,  in  the 
future.  In  a  novel  I  have  described  a  family  which  lives 
thus,  never  in  the  moment,  always  in  future  expectations. 
This  family  is  the  Polish  people.  We  have  not  grown 
insipid,  as  Mikolaj  urges,  but  we  are  obliged,  more  than 
ever,  to  take  refuge  in  paraphrases  and  allegories.  You 
have  seen  my  last  book,  which  has  made  a  sensation,  and 
which  is  so  beautifully  illustrated  :  Polish  Legends  of  the  Holy 
Virgin.  It  has  had  a  great  success.  Certainly  not  because 
it  is  in  the  least  clerical.  But  you  know  our  old  designation 
of  the  Holy  Virgin  :  Virgo  Mater,  Regina  Polonice.  The  Holy 
Virgin  in  my  book  is  Poland  itself ;  and  this  has  been 
understood  by  every  one  except  the  censors.  It  is  more 
necessary  than  ever  to  be  cautious.  Last  year  an  opera 
by  Moszniuszko  was  performed  here ;  these  were  the  words 
of  one  of  the  arias :  "  I  loved  my  mother  more  than  any 
other  woman,  since  her  death  everything  has  ceased  to  be 
attractive  to  me."  The  censors  maintained  that  the  word 
"  mother "  would  suggest  the  word  "  fatherland  "  to  the 
audience,  and  demanded  that  it  should  be  changed  into  : 
"  I  loved  my  aunt,"  &c.     This  winter  Sudermann's  Heintath 


PUERILE    TYRANNIES  149 

{Home)  was  acted  here,  but  the  censorship  changed  the  title. 
As  the  word  "  home  "  {Oiczysna)  may  signify  fatherland,  it  was 
changed  into  Family  Nest. 

"  It  is  this  pettiness  that  is  torturing  us  to  death  little  by 
little."  These  words  we  hear  from  the  corner  under  the 
palm  trees,  where  Helena  is  lying  on  a  couch,  and  point- 
ing to  the  firmament  studded  with  stars,  she  recites  in  a  low 
voice  this  little  French  verse — 

"  L'immensitd 
Vierge  de  flamme 
Berce  mon  ime — 
Felicite  1 
Mon  fime  clame 
L'immensitd" 


VII 

A  COMMON  DOMESTIC   OCCURRENCE,  SIGNIFICANT 
OF  THE   STATE    OF   THE    COUNTRY 

An  occurrence,  in  itself  insignificant,  that  took  place  yes- 
terday evening,  gave  me  a  sudden  insight  into  the  position 
of  that  part  of  the  population  which  the  Russians  wish  to 
humiliate,  and  at  the  same  time  into  the  relations  of  the 
different  classes  in  various  districts. 

We  went  over  to  Piasecznica,  where  we  had  been  invited 
to  supper.  We  were  fourteen  at  table — members  of  the 
family  and  a  few  friends.  When  one  of  the  servants  was 
changing  the  plates  he  did  it  in  so  noisy  a  way  that  the 
conversation  was  interrupted.  Some  of  us  thought  that  he 
was  drunk,  others  that  he  had  been  clumsily  anxious  to 
turn  the  plates  in  such  a  manner  that  the  gilt  monogram 
might  come  straight  before  each  person,  which  he  succeeded 
in  doing.  However,  we  soon  forgot  this  little  incident  and 
continued  our  conversation  ;  but  no  sooner  had  we  risen 
from  the  table  and  entered  the  saloon  than  we  heard  loud 
cries.  The  servant  had  evidently  been  seized  with  a  fit  of 
alcoholic  mania,  and  in  the  kitchen  he  had  seized  a  long 
knife  with  which  he  had  attacked  the  doorkeeper.  They  took 
the  knife  from  him,  but  he  continued  to  rave,  cry,  and 
scream,  rushing  up  and  down  the  great  entrance  hall.  Now 
and  then  he  stopped  to  light  a  cigarette,  screamed  and 
menaced  anew,  and  began  to  abuse  the  company  in  Russian. 
(He  had  formerly  been  a  servant  in  a  Russian  house.)  His 
demeanour  was  so  alarming  that  it  appeared  unreasonable  to 
allow  him  to  pass  the  night  in  the  manor,  and  we  all  agreed 
it  would  be  well  to  send  for  the  police.  Of  course  the 
nearest  police  station  in  the  country  is  often  far  away,  and 
even  at  full  trot  it  is  impossible  to  reach  this  one  in  less 


A    MAD    FOOTMAN  151 

than  half-an-hour  ;  in  fact,  it  was  two  clear  hours  before  the 
policeman  arrived. 

It  was  necessary  to  walk  up  and  down  the  entrance  hall 
to  watch  the  madman,  who  was  very  restless  :  now  he 
would  rush  into  one  chamber,  then  into  another.  I  called 
one  of  the  young  men's  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  crazy 
fellow  had  approached  a  cupboard  ;  he  answered  that  this 
belonged  to  the  servant  himself,  and,  accordingly,  he  did  not 
look  after  him,  as  he  ought  to  have  done. 

"  Oh  dear  !  "  he  cried  suddenly,  "  he  has  taken  a  revolver 
out  of  the  wardrobe  ;  it  belongs  to  my  brother,  and  he  is 
certain  to  have  taken  it  from  the  pocket  of  his  overcoat, 
but  don't  mention  it  to  the  ladies." 

They,  however,  soon  observed  that  he  was  rushing  to  and 
fro  with  the  loaded  revolver  in  his  hand,  and  some  of  them 
were  very  much  frightened.  Suddenly  a  report  was  heard, 
and  two  maids,  pale  as  death,  darted  into  the  room,  crying, 
"  He  has  fired  !  "  We  all  left  the  room,  some  to  stop  him, 
others  to  seek  refuge. 

At  the  moment  when  the  room  was  thus  deserted,  I 
saw  the  most  beautiful  of  the  daughters  of  the  house 
crossing  it,  and,  as  if  quite  justified  in  doing  so,  she  kissed 
the  lips  of  a  young  man  who  stood  leaning  against  the 
mantelpiece,  an  incident  which  I  note,  partly  because  it 
is  the  only  immoral  action  I  witnessed  during  my  stay  here, 
partly  because  it  proves  that  Polish  women  do  not  lose 
their  presence  of  mind  in  alarming  circumstances,  but  even 
understand  how  to  turn  a  general  confusion  to  account. 

It  was  now  made  clear  that  the  servant  in  question,  who 
had  been  in  the  manor  but  one  month  and  six  days,  was  not 
only  intractable,  but  altogether  a  dangerous  person.  The 
maids  related  that  on  the  foregoing  Sunday,  when  all  the 
family  were  absent,  he  had  explained  to  the  other  servants 
that  they  ought  to  set  the  house  on  fire,  and  if  possible  let 
every  one  perish  in  the  flames.  And  again  and  again  he  had 
reiterated  such  remarks. 

The  master  of  the  house  had  sent  for  no  less  than  five 
of  his  peasants,  that  they  might  get  hold  of  him  ;  but  they 
would   not   touch    him.     They  looked   unpleasantly   sullen 


152  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

and  hostile.  Of  late  they  have  been  so  seriously  worked 
upon  by  agitators  who  set  them  up  against  their  lords  and 
their  families  that  they  look  on  with  a  sort  of  satisfaction 
whenever  anything  goes  wrong.  The  Russians  take  ad- 
vantage of  this  mood  and  add  fuel  to  the  fire.  We  only 
need  to  take  a  walk  in  the  country  to  note  the  disposition 
of  the  peasants.  All  the  elder  rustics  greet  us  politely, 
muttering  the  formal :  *'  Niech  bendzie  pochevalouyy,"  that  is, 
"He  (Christ)  be  praised  1"  to  which  the  answer  is,  *^Na  wieky" 
(ever  and  ever).  None  of  the  young  men  ever  salute  us. 
Even  many  years  ago,  when  we  were  talking  over  the 
possibility  of  a  revolution  in  Russia,  I  said  :  "A  fine  revolution, 
that  will  consist  in  the  peasants  burning  down  the  manors 
of  the  liberal  proprietors."  My  opinion  was  once  more 
confirmed. 

My  proposal  that  we  ourselves  should  lay  hold  of  the 
madman  roused  a  surprise  and  displeasure  very  instructive  to 
me.  "  In  that  case  the  police  will  side  against  us,  and  we 
shall  be  arrested — not  he."  However,  as  he  was  going  to 
fire  again,  the  coachman,  more  energetic  than  the  masters, 
got  the  better  of  him,  and  though  six  persons  had  great 
difficulty  in  holding  him,  they  succeeded  in  tying  his  arms 
behind  his  back.  Then — for  fear  of  the  police — a  good 
soft  feather-bed  was  brought  for  him  to  rest  on,  while  he 
continued  to  rage  and  curse. 

A  pause — and  we  heard  the  sounds  of  carriage-wheels :  it 
was  the  Russian  police  officer.  He  is  an  unmilitary  figure, 
in  uniform,  with  spectacles,  long,  black,  straight  hair,  a  look 
of  stupidity,  reserve,  narrow-mindedness,  pedantry.  He  asks 
to  hear  the  witnesses.  But  for  fear  of  the  vengeance  of  the 
servant  after  his  release,  nobody  will  submit  to  be  examined. 
The  doorkeeper  was  not  aware  of  having  been  attacked  with 
a  knife  ;  the  maids  had  never  heard  any  threats.  The  revolver 
had  been  flung  into  the  garden  beneath  some  bushes,  and 
was  not  to  be  found  in  the  darkness.  It  began  to  look  as 
if  the  proprietor,  who  had  caused  him  to  be  bound,  was  the 
only  one  guilty. 

Money  was  offered  to  the  police  officer,  but  in  a  way 
so  imprudent  and  public  that  he  most  virtuously  refused  the 


CLASS    HATRED    FOSTERED  153 

bribe.  Then  he  begins  to  examine  the  things  found  in  the 
pockets  of  the  servant.  A  pocket-book,  with  cards  bearing 
the  name  of  a  Russian  baroness — servants  commonly  steal 
cards  of  their  master's  in  order  to  be  able  to  procure 
goods  from  the  shops — then  apparatus  for  making  bullets. 
The  policeman  orders  the  captive  to  be  set  at  liberty.  The 
latter  rises  and  demonstrates.  He  won't  leave  the  house 
without  three  months'  wages — though  he  has  not  served 
more  than  one  month  and  six  days — and  even  though  the 
moment  is  not  very  well  chosen  to  speak  of  wages,  when  he 
has  just  been  accused  of  a  serious  crime.  The  policeman 
supports  his  request,  and  offers  to  drive  him  away  with 
him. 

"  He  has  his  own  reasons  for  wishing  him  to  be  well 
furnished  with  money,"  my  host  says  to  me.  "  As  soon  as 
they  have  got  into  the  carriage,  they  will  begin  to  bargain 
as  to  how  many  rubles  the  policeman  is  to  have  to  let  the 
other  jump  down  and  disappear  in  the  darkness.  In 
half-an-hour  he  may  come  back  and  set  the  outhouses  on 
fire  if,  indeed,  he  does  not  venture  to  come  into  the 
house." 

To  prevent  this  immediate  escape,  we  feigned  great 
anxiety  for  the  precious  life  of  the  policeman,  alone  in 
the  carriage  with  the  unbound  malefactor,  and  my  host 
ordered  one  of  the  most  trustworthy  of  his  people  to  accom- 
pany him — for  protection. 

Of  course  the  escape  may  nevertheless  have  taken  place 
to-day. 

At  length  the  carriage  drove  away,  and  I  thought  that 
this  episode  which  had  disturbed  us  was  ended  and  would 
be  soon  forgotten.  But  when  I  returned  to  the  saloon  I 
remarked  to  my  great  surprise  that  the  ladies  were  quite  in 
despair :  "  But  why  are  you  in  low  spirits  now,  when  all  is 
happily  over  ?  " 

"  Nothing  is  over,"  said  young  Mme.  Wieloglowska.  "  It  is 
easy  for  you  to  keep  up  your  courage,  you  who  are  going 
back  to  Denmark  in  a  few  days.  In  a  month  my  parents 
are  going  to  Warsaw ;  one  of  my  sisters  is  going  to  Paris, 
the  other  to  Germany.     Then  my  husband  and  I  will  be 


154  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

alone  here.  It  is  certain  that  this  rogue  will  avenge  himself, 
because  we  tied  his  arms.  He  will  kill  us,  or  set  fire  to 
the  house.  These  people  always  avenge  themselves.  Last 
year  my  brother-in-law,  who  lived  in  the  neighbouring  manor, 
found  two  horses  in  his  field.  He  brought  them  to  his 
stables,  and  when  the  peasant  came  to  fetch  them  the  next 
day  he  demanded  fifty  copecks  as  a  penalty.  The  peasant 
began  to  lament ;  he  was  a  poor  man,  he  could  not  afford 
to  pay.  '  You  must  pay  this  fine,'  my  brother-in-law  said 
to  him  ;  '  you  are  no  poor  man  ;  you  have  eight  horses, 
and  last  month  you  sent  four  of  them  into  my  fields  to 
graze.'  The  peasant  paid  the  fine  ;  but  that  very  evening 
he  stole  upon  my  brother-in-law  with  a  pitchfork  and  killed 
him  from  behind  at  one  blow.  He  escaped  with  a  trifling 
punishment." 

"  Yes,  they  are  dangerous,  the  surroundings  in  which  we 
live,"  said  the  owner  of  Skotniki.  "  Last  autumn  I  was  obliged 
to  send  away  a  servant  who  had  been  stealing.  After  that 
my  house  was  twice  set  on  fire.  Every  one  knows  who  did 
it,  but  I  am  unable  to  prove  anything." 

We  stayed  until  two  o'clock,  but  the  whole  company 
was  depressed,  with  the  exception  of  the  young  lady  of  the 
kiss,  who  appeared  to  retain  a  certain  cheerfulness.  But 
people  in  love  live  in  their  own  sphere. 

When,  on  the  way  home,  I  thought  over  the  incidents 
of  the  evening,  I  could  not  help  feeling  how  seriously  the 
political  and  social  disproportion,  caused  by  the  universal 
oppression  had  manifested  itself  in  this  miserable  occurrence. 
It  recalled  to  my  mind  the  state  of  Galicia  in  1846,  when 
the  peasants,  to  whom  the  proprietors  addressed  themselves, 
to  induce  them  to  participate  in  the  national  revolt,  seduced 
by  the  falsehoods  of  the  Austrian  emissaries,  rose,  and 
vented  their  rage  upon  the  Polish  nobility,  who,  as  they 
imagined,  prevented  the  carrying  out  of  the  imperial  regula- 
tions for  their  benefit.  Certainly  the  nobility  must  bear  the 
blame  of  much  ancient  injustice  towards  the  rustics,  or  such 
things  could  not  be  possible,  and  the  old  hatred  would  not 
persist.  Yet  nowadays  the  proprietors  are  so  nationalist  and 
so  humane  that  it  is  the  ignorance  of  the  common  people, 


CLASS    HATRED    FOSTERED  155 

the  bestial  condition  maintained  by  the  Russians,  which  is 
to  blame  for  all  the  misery  and  the  hatred. 

Under  the  pressure  here,  everything,  even  class  differ- 
ences, becomes  a  caricature  of  conditions  elsewhere  in 
Europe. 

However  strange  it  sounds,  in  spite  of  the  dissatisfaction 
with  the  higher  classes  here  in  Poland,  the  social  problem 
does  not  affect  the  common  people  as  profoundly  as  the 
national  question. 

It  is  inconceivable  that  the  class-struggle  of  this  age 
should  leave  Poland  unaffected.  But  the  ill-will  against 
the  Russian  is  nevertheless  a  hundred-fold  stronger  than  the 
distrust  of  the  master.  The  Russian  is  despised  for  not 
being  a  Catholic  ;  the  most  abusive  term  a  peasant  can 
use  is  Moskal  (Muscovite). 

Among  the  people  of  rank  and  the  common  people  there 
is  only  the  economic  distance  ;  but  between  the  Pole  and 
the  Russian  rises  the  barrier  of  religion,  the  most  powerful 
factor  in  the  life  of  this  country. 


VIII 

NATIONAL   CHARACTERISTICS  AND   PATRIOTISM- 
CONCLUSION 

Our  young  priest  came  yesterday  to  pay  a  visit  to  me,  and 
was  kind  enough  to  bring  the  lithographed  exegesis  of 
the  Old  Testament,  used  in  the  lessons  at  the  seminary  in 
Rome.  It  is  in  Latin,  composed  by  a  Jesuit,  rather  intelli- 
gent, not  without  acuteness,  but  of  course  quite  unscientific, 
as  its  demonstration  always  tends  to  justify  orthodoxy.  It  is 
not  in  the  market,  and  it  was  interesting  to  me  to  ascertain 
on  what  principles  instruction  is  carried  on.  However 
young  Father  Usmanowicz  may  be,  he  has  suffered  several 
disappointments.  He  considers  it  an  injustice  and  an  insult 
that  he  has  been  appointed  parish  priest  here.  His  ambi- 
tion was  a  professorship  at  the  priestly  school  in  Warsaw, 
and  most  likely  he  will  manage  to  get  it.  He  is  refined 
and  intelligent  enough,  if  not  too  intelligent. 

We  had  a  good  talk  on  many  topics.  Firstly,  on  the 
papers.  Yesterday  we  had  read  aloud  the  last  literary 
articles  by  Casimir  Zalewski  and  Boguslawski,  the  first 
suggested  by  the  panegyric  upon  Sardou,  in  the  Figaro, 
by  Henry  Becques,  the  second  by  a  feuilleton  on  the  utility 
of  criticism  by  Sarcey.  The  quantity  of  abstract  out  of  date 
aesthetics  in  the  papers  is  certainly  caused  by  the  oppression 
of  the  censorship.  We  spoke  about  the  insane  administra- 
tion in  this  part  of  the  country :  to  think  that  we  are  daily 
obliged  to  send  for  our  letters  to  B ,  and  that  the  mes- 
senger may  never  bring  a  registered  letter,  only  a  notice  that 
one  is  lying  at  the  post-office  for  me.  I  am  obliged  to 
fetch  it  myself,  and  I  mentioned  the  postmaster's  answer 
to  my  complaint :  "  Bui  no  one  from  Krolewice  has  ever  been 
here  to  make  my  acquaintance. "    Then  we  spoke  of  the  price  we 

pay  for  the  delivery  of   telegrams  ;  two  rubles  and  twenty 

156 


POLISH    TRAITS  157 

copecks  for  each  (more  than  the  telegram  itself),  and  they 
are  brought  day  and  night.  On  Mme.  Jozefa's  birthday  the 
bell  rang  all  night,  and  Franciszek  had  to  pay  seventy 
rubles  for  telegrams,  the  interesting  contents  of  which  were : 
"  Cordial  felicitations  "  ! 

We  went  out  into  the  fields,  sat  down  under  a  high 
poplar,  listened  to  the  whistling  of  the  wind  in  the  leaves, 
and  our  conversation  took  a  more  serious  turn.  From 
petty  troubles  it  turned  on  the  great  national  martyrdom, 
from  the  daily  denial  of  liberty  and  justice,  to  the  great 
historical  injustice,  which  every  day  brings  forth  its  venomous 
fruit  anew. 

Old  Field-Marshal  Moltke  one  day  said  to  Kosczielski,  that, 
in  a  book  he  had  read  about  Poland,  he  had  been  most 
pleased  by  this  sentence  :  "  We  do  not  love  Poland  as  we 
love  Germany  or  France  or  England,  but  as  we  love  free- 
dom ;"  a  very  curious  remark  from  the  lips  of  one  whom 
one  would  not  suspect  of  loving  freedom  overmuch.  I 
feel  myself  that  the  essential  view,  pronounced  in  those 
words,  has  determined  my  view  of  Poland  from  the  begin- 
ning. Every  one  who  loves  freedom  must  love  the  most 
oppressed  population  in  Europe  from  the  bottom  of  his 
heart  ;  he  overlooks  its  faults,  and  its  perfections  captivate 
him. 

But  what  is  the  use  of  seeking  the  pluperfect?  No  one 
with  a  properly  developed  psychological  sense  can  overlook 
the  qualities  which  form  the  weakness  of  the  Poles,  and  which 
have  been  exaggerated  by  their  exclusion  from  public  life. 
What  their  enemies  call  falseness  is  rather  the  result  of 
a  life  of  unreality.  They  have  a  propensity  to  put  forward 
pretensions  which  are  only  half  real.  This  propensity  is  in 
no  way  akin  to  the  coarse  extravagance  of  the  Southern 
French,  but  is  the  outcome  of  a  life  that  has  to  be  satisfied 
with  words  instead  of  deeds.  An  editor  of  a  newspaper  here, 
who  never  writes  an  article,  scarcely  reads  his  papers,  and 
who  can  still  less  be  looked  upon  as  its  leader,  takes  a  naive 
and  sincere  pleasure  in  hearing  himself  mentioned  as  the 
editor,  and  he  talks  gravely,  without  any  deliberate  intention 
of  lying,  of    his  great  work  with   the    paper,  his   struggles 


158  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

with  the  censorship,  &c.  A  little  party  of  patriots  has 
assembled  every  fortnight  for  twelve  years  ;  every  Thursday 
they  rescue  their  fatherland  by  ingenious  plans  and  com- 
binations, and  hardly  perceive  themselves  that  all  remains 
as  it  was. 

I  said  to  the  priest:  "The  Poles  are  perhaps  the  only 
people  on  earth  who  do  not  claim  common  sense  as  a 
national  quality.  Frenchmen,  Englishmen,  Germans,  Italians, 
Danes  are  convinced  that  common  sense  reigns  among  them. 
The  Poles  do  not  believe  this.  They  know  too  well  that  they 
never  have  been  able  to  take  practical  advantage  of  any  his- 
torical situation.  They  are  not  wanting  in  knowledge  of 
themselves." 

He  answered,  "  In  our  country,  strangely  enough,  the 
women  seem  essentially  different  from  the  men." 

"  As  far  as  I  can  judge,"  I  said,  "  the  women  of  the 
higher  classes  have  a  great  deal  of  self-control  and  but  little 
temperament.  The  character  of  coldness,  which  Edmond 
About  assigned  them  in  verse  once,  when  he  sighed  in  vain 
for  a  Polish  lady,  is  still  very  appropriate.  Strange  as  it  may 
sound,  I  think  that  the  Englishwoman  Maud  in  Paul  Bourget's 
Cosmopolis,  the  placid,  warm-hearted  woman  whom  no  agita- 
tion is  able  to  throw  off  her  balance,  is  a  type  often  to  be 
met  with  in  Poland." 

We  had  continued  our  talk  about  half-an-hour,  sitting 
under  the  tree,  when  we  saw  Franciszek,  Madame  Jozefa, 
and  Madame  Halina  approach  ;  they  sat  down  beside  us  on 
the  grass  and  joined  in  our  conversation.  It  turned  on  the 
following  topic. 

As  there  are  in  Poland  no  Polish  officers,  politicians,  or 
high  functionaries,  woman's  favour,  which  in  other  countries 
falls  to  the  lot  of  men  who  are  prominent  in  some  way  or 
other,  here  nearly  always  becomes  the  share  of  authors  and 
artists.  Almost  in  every  town  in  the  world  there  are  some 
few  men  in  whom  all  the  women  who  have  no  other  object 
for  their  feelings  delight.  Such  a  man  is  a  kind  of  a  pawn- 
broker's shop  for  women's  hearts.  In  Poland  Henryk  Sien- 
kiewicz  is  such  a  pawnbroker's  shop.  Though  about  fifty 
years  of  age  and  by  no  means  elegant,  his  reputation  has  made 


PATRIOTISM    OF    POLISH    WOMEN  159 

him  the  man  about  whom  the  women  rave.  It  is  so  much 
the  more  curious,  as  he  has  never  written  a  line  of  verse. 
But  when  he  arrives  at  one  of  the  PoHsh  watering-places  in 
the  Tatra  mountains,  or  when  he  enters  a  drawing-room  in 
Warsaw,  all  the  women  are  electrified,  from  grandmothers 
to  schoolgirls.  For  the  rest,  he  does  not  give  them  any 
encouragement. 

Even  his  tragi-comic  matrimonial  fiasco  which  took  place 
this  year  has  not  diminished  his  prestige.  He  married  a 
second  time,  a  young  girl  of  eighteen  of  the  highest  aris- 
tocracy. No  pains  were  spared  to  make  this  marriage  an 
event.  The  couple  were  married  in  the  cathedral  of  Warsaw 
by  a  cardinal  ;  the  pope  sent  a  letter  of  congratulation.  All 
the  aristocracy  of  Poland  met  in  the  church.  But  only  two 
weeks  after  the  marriage  the  young  bride  took  refuge  with 
her  mother  and  would  not  return  to  her  husband.  All  the 
women  in  Poland  condemn  her  behaviour. 

But  still  more  characteristic  than  their  hero-worship  is 
their  enthusiastic  and  passionate  patriotism.  No  feeling  in 
them  is  more  serious  than  this.  They  are  capable  of  any 
sacrifice  for  patriotic  aims,  and  prove  their  sincerity  by  their 
actions. 

The  other  day  it  happened  in  this  house  that  a  Polish 
proprietor  who  had  been  brought  up  in  England  hazarded 
the  remark  that  patriotism  was  nowadays  greatly  lacking 
in  Poland.  The  gentlemen  contradicted  him,  but  the  ladies 
— it  was  quite  a  spectacle  to  see  them.  With  flaming  eyes 
and  blazing  cheeks  they  stood  round  him,  and  their  voices 
trembled  in  refuting  him.  In  a  perfect  fury  one  of  the 
youngest  ladies  exclaimed :  "  I  promised  you  to  take  you 
home  in  my  carriage,  but  now  you  may  go  on  foot." 

We  soon  agreed  that  if  this  flame  were  not  burning  in 
the  hearts  of  the  women  the  enemies  of  Poland  would  long 
ago  have  got  the  upper  hand.  For  no  people  in  the  world 
has  such  oppression  to  endure,  such  manifold  persecution 
to  sufTer.  They  are  living  under  conditions  which  allow  every 
measure  taken  against  them  to  be  easily  carried  out,  and 
every  evil  person  who  concocts  hostile  or  mean  plans  against 
them  has  a  wide  field  for  his  energy.    It  very  seldom  happens. 


i6o  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

as  it  did  a  year  ago,  that  such  plots  are  revealed,  so  that 
a  peep  is  opened  into  things  which  would  otherwise  remain 
unpunished. 

A  student  called  Hendigery,  who  was  studying  at  the 
University  six  months  ago,  and  who  had  made  up  his  mind 
to  make  a  career  for  himself,  began  to  write  now  and  then 
in  the  papers,  and  then  went  to  Cracow  with  good  intro- 
ductions. He  was  very  handsome,  very  active  ;  one  of  those 
scoundrels  who  always  have  the  game  in  their  own  hands 
because  simpletons  believe  that  they  are  only  to  be  met  with 
in  bad  novels.  He  posed  in  Cracow  as  a  political  victim  of 
the  state  in  Russian  Poland,  met  with  sympathy  everywhere; 
after  a  month's  acquaintance,  he  married  the  beautiful 
daughter  of  a  professor  in  easy  circumstances.  But  im- 
mediately after  his  arrival  he  had  commenced  a  corres- 
pondence with  the  police  authorities  in  St.  Petersburg ;  had 
declared  himself  able  to  produce  proofs  against  all  the 
remarkable  and  leading  men  in  Warsaw,  implying  that  these 
proofs  were  more  due  to  his  own  sagacity  than  to  any  im- 
prudence or  to  plots  of  the  persons  in  question.  His 
advances  were  gladly  received.  With  a  false  passport  he 
made  a  wedding  trip  to  St.  Petersburg — going  ostensibly 
to  the  south  ;  had  an  audience  with  the  chiefs  of  the  secret 
police,  and  made  all  necessary  preparations  with  them. 

As  soon  as  he  had  returned  he  began  to  frequent  the 
society  of  the  miners  in  Galicia,  apparently  out  of  interest 
in  the  labour  question,  but  in  reality  to  procure  dynamite. 
He  got  a  quantity  sufficient  for  his  purpose.  He  made  150 
small  parcels  of  dynamite,  which  he  addressed  to  150  men  in 
Warsaw,  pointed  out  to  him  by  the  Russian  authorities. 
These  small  parcels  he  sewed  up  in  the  overcoat  of  a  man 
whom  he  had  engaged  to  carry  them  across  the  frontier. 

In  the  meantime  the  Austrian  police  had  noticed  the 
strange  conduct  of  the  man.  They  knew  that  he  had  gone 
southwards  and  immediately  after  to  St.  Petersburg.  They 
knew  of  and  watched  his  visits  to  the  mines,  and  they  deter- 
mined to  interfere.  His  messenger  was  arrested  before  he 
reached  the  Russian  frontier.  A  domiciliary  visit  brought 
to  light  a  number  of  letters  and  telegrams  from  St.  Petersburg 


THE   KROZE   OUTRAGE  i6i 

which,  although  cautiously  composed,  betrayed  the  intimate 
relations  of  the  political  victim  and  his  persecutors.  A  trial 
was  set  on  foot.  Only  five  weeks  after  the  wedding  his  wife 
learned  whom  she  had  married.  Of  course  the  Russians 
repudiated  Hendigery,  denying  all  knowledge  of  him.  He 
was  sentenced  to  three  years'  hard  labour,  which  he  has  not 
yet  expiated.     It  was  a  master-stroke  that  ended  in  disaster. 

It  is  evident  that  the  emperor  is  not  always  aware  of  the 
way  in  which  the  system  of  government  in  Poland  works  ; 
this  was  proved  when  the  massacre  and  the  knouting  took 
place  on  the  occasion  of  the  seizure  of  the  church  at  Kroze 
by  the  Russians.  A  Russian  princess  who  was  abroad  read 
about  this  in  foreign  newspapers,  and  sent  a  cutting  to  the 
Czar.  The  latter,  not  believing  in  the  exactitude  of  the 
account,  despatched  his  then  favourite,  the  Prince  Kan- 
takuzen,  to  examine  into  the  matter.  But  it  happened  that 
Orezewski,  the  governor-general  of  the  district  of  Kroze, 
proved  to  be  an  old  friend  of  Kantakuzen.  These  two  spent 
a  couple  of  pleasant  days  together,  whereupon  the  prince 
returned  to  St.  Petersburg  with  the  information  that  the 
whole  affair  had  been  ridiculously  exaggerated.  All  that  had 
happened  was  that  a  few  peasants,  who  would  not  yield  to 
the  police,  had  got  broken  noses.  And  thus  the  matter  was 
hushed  up.  But  the  same  princess,  who  was  irritated  at  the 
contradiction,  procured  proofs  of  the  truth  of  the  account, 
which  she  had  sent  to  the  Czar.  Orezewski  received  his  dis- 
missal and  Kantakuzen  was  exiled.  He  went  to  Paris,  where 
he  died. 

It  was  a  splendid  evening  ;  the  sun  was  setting  behind 
dark  clouds  in  the  horizon,  leaving  a  luminous  golden  border 
round  the  cloud.  No  sound  from  the  fields  except  that  of 
the  partridges  flushed  by  Madame  Jozefa's  two  blundering 
poodles,  Caro  and  Finka.  It  was  my  last  evening,  and  I 
was  glancing  round  the  country,  which  I  should  not  see 
again  for  a  long  time. 

Franciszek  said  :  "  Do  come  again  !  You  can't  be  bored 
with  a  Ubrary  of  8000  volumes,  and  you  may  tell  me  what 
books  you  want  for  next  year  and  I  will  procure  them." 

Madame  Jozefa  said  :  "  Do  not  forget  us,  but  come  back  ! 

L 


i62  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Now  we  have  known  each  other  for  ten  years  and  our  friend- 
ship has  grown  steadily.  Do  not  return  for  the  sake  of  books, 
but  for  our  sakes.    Nowhere  have  you  better  friends." 

The  young  priest  said,  smiling :  "  Come  back,  and  we 
will  again  defend  the  Jesuits  when  old  M.  Rostropowicz 
attacks  them,  and  again  discuss  the  book  of  Ecclesiastes  and 
agree  that  all  is  not  vanity." 

Mme.  Halina  said  :  "  Come  again  ;  give  us  lectures  in  the 
town  hall,  and  we  will  attend  in  crowds  and  applaud  with 
all  our  hearts.     Do  not  forget  us." 

And  the  wind  whistling  in  the  high  poplars  said  :  "  Do 
not  forget  us  !  All  Europe  has  forgotten  us.  Do  not  forget 
this  people,  so  winning  and  so  richly  endowed,  which  feels 
so  deeply,  and  dreams  so  vividly,  and  loves  so  profoundly. 
Do  not  forget  this  earth  which  has  absorbed  so  much  noble 
blood,  this  country,  forsaken  by  Gods  and  scorned  by  men. 
Do  not  forget  us  1" 


FOURTH    IMPRESSION 

1899 


LEMBERG 

I 

In  a  speech  made  by  the  master  of  the  University  in  the 
capital  of  Galicia  to  me,  he  said  :  "  You  are  our  guest,  but 
we  have  not  invited  you  in  order  to  influence  your  opinions. 
We  certainly  hope  that  you  will  write  about  us  ;  but  we  do 
not  ask  for  praise.  We  only  desire  the  truth.  Tell  the  truth 
about  us,  however  the  words  may  sound,  and  we  shall  be 
thankful  to  you." 

To  be  able  to  speak  the  truth  one  must  know  it.  But  I 
do  not  suppose  that  I  myself  know  the  truth  about  Austrian 
Poland.  If  one  is  at  a  disadvantage  in  learning  the  real 
state  of  a  country  when  one  arrives  as  an  unnoticed  stranger, 
and  has  little  opportunity  of  talking  to  any  one  but  waiters, 
curators,  and  a  few  fellow-travellers,  the  conditions  are  hardly 
more  favourable  when  one  visits  a  country  as  an  invited  guest, 
received  at  all  stations,  having  one's  day  mapped  out  before- 
hand from  morning  till  well  after  midnight,  scarcely  alone 
for  one  hour,  presented  to  400  persons  in  one  day,  and 
handed  about  like  a  parcel  sent  by  post.  In  a  few  weeks 
one  sees  more  than  in  a  whole  year  under  ordinary  con- 
ditions, but  it  is  impossible  to  check  one's  impressions. 

Every  one  knows  how  strong  is  the  feeling  of  being  a 
stranger  in  a  country,  where  one  passes  through  the 
towns  without  knowing  any  one,  and  sees  all  doors  closed 
to  one  ;  but  it  is  almost  worse  to  find  all  doors  open,  and  to 
be  known  before  having  made  the  acquaintance  of  any  one. 
One  needs  the  rest  necessary  to  make  observations,  and  it 
takes  time  to  really  know  people. 

If  the  first  condition  of  speaking  the  truth  is  to  know  it, 
the  next  certainly  is  that  one  should  be  able  to  speak  without 
fear  or  favour.     This  is  impossible  to  any  one  who  has  been 

•65 


i66  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

brought  into  close  contact  with  all  the  leading  personages  in 
a  country,  and  who  has  met  with  the  most  perfect  hospitality 
from  them.  But  this  was  my  case  here.  My  stay  in  Galicia  in 
the  autumn  of  1898  was  one  uninterrupted  succession  of 
public  and  private  festivities.  Nay,  even  friends  of  mine  who 
had  come  to  Lemberg  to  visit  me  were  invited  everywhere, 
even  in  private  circles. 

My  stay  in  Galicia  had  this  great  interest  to  me,  that  here 
for  the  first  time  I  saw  the  Poles  as  a  free  people.  I  know 
a  part  of  Prussian  Poland,  and  I  know  some  of  the  leading 
men  in  Posen  rather  intimately.  With  Russian  Poland, 
I  may  say,  I  am  fairly  familiar,  after  four  different  visits. 
But  never  before  had  I  had  an  opportunity  of  observing 
Polish  life  developing  under  self-government  without  any 
foreign  pressure,  with  the  rights  of  public  meeting  and  of 
freedom  of  speech.  At  least  I  have  here  seen  enough  to 
prove  that  the  Poles  do  not  lack  the  ability  to  shape  their 
life  as  an  independent  people.  It  is  not  the  fault  of  the 
population  that  Galicia  is  a  poor  country.  The  faults  of 
the  Poles,  among  others,  for  instance,  a  certain  irre- 
sponsibility, are  not  characteristic  here  ;  these  are  more 
pronounced  in  old  free  states,  where  the  capacity  for 
patriotic  sacrifice  which  distinguishes  the  Poles  is  much 
more  scarce,  and,  even  if  strong  prejudices  still  obtain 
among  them,  these  in  themselves  do  not  paraly.se  the  in- 
telligence or  the  honesty  of  the  people.  These  prejudices 
have  gathered  strength  from  historical  conditions  less  favour- 
able here  than  elsewhere. 

The  Poles,  as  I  have  said  elsewhere,  have  shown  me  more 
kindness  and  affection  than  any  other  people  in  the  world. 
As  a  critic,  therefore,  I  am  bound  to  be  on  my  guard  against 
the  pleasant  promptings  of  gratitude. 

It  is  the  more  difficult  for  me  to  be  impartial  that  I 
avowedly  come  to  my  task  with  friendly  prepossessions.  I 
love  the  Poles,  not  only  because  their  fate  has  been  so  sad, 
and  the  historical  injustice  they  suffer  is  so  great,  but  because 
something  in  their  entity  strongly  attracts  me.  Now  and 
then  I  have  been  praised  in  Poland,  because,  while  others 
do  homage  to  the  great  people  of  the  earth,  I  have  preferred 


JULIAN   KLACZKO  167 

to  court  misfortune.  But  it  is  not  only  the  calamity  of 
Poland  which  has  won  me  to  the  land  and  people.  Among 
the  developments  of  the  human  plant,  manifold  as  they  are, 
the  perfect  blossom  of  the  Slavonic  race  is  the  flower  that 
most  enchants  me. 


II 

At  Cracow,  Wavel  fell  short  of  my  expectations.  Certainly 
I  visited  the  cathedral  under  most  unfavourable  conditions, 
after  its  complete  restoration  ;  but  this  was  not  so  much  the 
cause  of  my  disappointment  as  the  fact  that  I  had  hoped  for 
and  expected  much  more  original  architecture.  The  archi- 
tect, who  had  carried  out  the  restorations  and  very  amiably 
showed  me  all  over  the  building,  immediately  pointed  out 
to  me  the  most  beautiful  chapel,  built  by  Florentine  artists, 
and  said — and  certainly  he  is  right — that  it  was  not  much 
inferior  to  similar  chapels  in  Italy.  But  I,  who  a  few 
months  before  had  travelled  through  Italy  from  Syracuse  to 
Verona,  had  expected  something  very  different  in  Poland. 
On  the  other  hand,  I  was  glad  to  see  that  the  two  monu- 
ments by  Thorwaldsen  at  Wavel  looked  extremely  well. 

The  most  original  work  of  art  in  Cracow  is  certainly 
Matijko's  rich  and  glowing  decoration  in  the  chancel  of  the 
Church  of  St.  Mary. 

I  paid  a  visit  to  the  very  original  old  invalid,  Julian 
Klaczko.  Stretched  on  his  bed,  he  looked,  with  his  thick, 
fair  moustache,  like  a  Pole  of  the  seventeenth  century, 
though  he  has  Jewish  blood  in  his  veins,  a  proof  among 
many  others  of  how  strongly  surroundings  modify  and 
transform.  He,  who  in  1848  was  an  ardent  revolutionist, 
has,  affected  perhaps  by  the  air  of  Cracow,  become  more 
and  more  conservative.  He  praised  me,  because  in  one  of 
my  books  1  had  evinced  so  much  sense  of  the  national 
importance  of  the  Catholic  Church.  I  endeavoured  to 
cheer  the  sick  man  a  little  by  telling  him  about  a  certain 
diplomatic  dinner  in  Rome  six  months  before,  at  which, 
when  his  name  was  mentioned,  all  the  men  present,  from 


i68  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

the  Swedish  Ambassador  to  the  Turkish  charge -iV affaires, 
had  proved  to  be  as  familiar  with  his  works  as  myself, 
though  I  know  almost  everything  he  has  ever  written.  Of 
course  his  position  in  Austria  in  1867  as  Secretary  to  Beust, 
his  part  in  the  settlement  between  Austria  and  Hungary,  as 
well  as  his  book,  The  Two  Chancellors  (Bismarck  and  Gorts- 
chakoff),  have  contributed  to  keep  him  before  the  eyes  of 
the  diplomatist. 

Melancholy  reigned  in  the  sick  room.  He  did  not  ap- 
pear to  have  much  hope  of  recovery.  I  owed  him  gratitude 
for  the  benefit  I  had  derived  from  his  studies  on  Krasinski. 
However,  it  appeared  as  if  national  feeling  had  repressed 
and  limited  his  liberalism.  At  last  all  other  thoughts  were 
merged  in  the  sad  reflection  that  I  was  not  likely  to  see 
him  again. 

In  the  evening  the  Arts  Club  arranged  a  festival  for  me. 
The  old  Kossak,  the  patriarch  of  the  painters,  took  me  to 
dinner,  and  in  a  French,  unearthed  from  his  youthful  recol- 
lections of  student  life  in  Paris,  he  made  a  very  cordial 
speech  to  me.  He  said  among  other  things  :  "  Here  you 
see  of  what  use  the  repression  of  language  is  !  From  our 
childhood  we  have  been  forced  to  learn  German,  to  speak 
German,  and  what  is  the  consequence  ?  that  we  all  speak 
French  to  any  stranger."  I  was  elected  honorary  member 
of  the  Letters  and  Arts  Club,  and  Kossak  promised  to 
decorate  the  certificate  of  membership  for  me.  This  was 
not  to  be — a  month  later  he  was  dead.  He  was  an  excel- 
lent animal  painter ;  he  had  studied  the  character  and 
movements  of  the  horse  as  no  other  artist  has  done  ;  his 
more  famous  son,  with  his  richer  dramatic  talent,  is  sure  to 
preserve  the  name  from  oblivion  in  Poland. 

Among  those  present  at  the  festival,  the  young  Professor 
of  Literary  History  at  the  University,  Ziedochowski,  was 
prominent.  He  is  a  refined  and  conscientious  scholar  of  the 
highest  intelligence  ;  for  the  rest,  a  devout  Cathohc.  The 
young  Polonised  Frenchman,  Paul  Rongier,  French  Lec- 
turer at  the  University,  was  the  only  one  in  the  circle  who 
spoke  perfect  French.  He  combined  French  charm  with 
Polish   cordiality.     Then   the   musician,  Bielicki,  played  ;  a 


FRIENDS   FROM   WARSAW  169 

handsome  and  lively  man,  who  had  been  in  Copenhagen 
as  the  guest  of  Gade,  and  had  studied  Scandinavian  popular 
melodies.  He  played  alternately  charming  compositions  by 
Chopin,  and  Swedish  popular  dances,  until  a  fugitive  refined 
spirit  of  music  and  enthusiasm,  mutual  affection  and  frater- 
nity was  diffused  in  the  hall.  The  air  was  fragrant  with 
happiness  while  we  were  together. 

When  I  got  out  of  the  carriage,  which  had  brought 
me  from  the  hotel  at  Cracow  to  the  railway  station,  I  was 
received  by  a  little  party  of  men,  the  chief  participants  in 
the  festival  of  the  evening  before,  who,  with  the  old  painter 
Kossak  at  their  head,  had  appeared  to  take  leave  of  me. 
But  after  the  exchange  of  a  few  words,  I  saw  with  astonish- 
ment some  familiar  figures  from  Warsaw,  whom  I  had  cer- 
tainly not  expected  to  meet  with,  hurrying  down  the  high 
broad  staircase  from  the  station. 

They  were  Falad,  the  renowned  painter,  the  poet  Maryan 
Gawalewicz,  and  my  intimate  friends  and  entertainers  during 
my  different  sojourns  in  Russian  Poland — Jan  and  Madame 
jozefa.  "You  here?"  I  exclaimed,  surprised.  "We  are 
going  with  you,"  replied  Jan.  Falad  had  only  come  down 
to  make  arrangements  about  a  portrait,  which  could  not  be 
painted  on  account  of  my  hurried  departure.  Gawalewicz 
embraced  me,  Madame  Jozefa  shook  hands  with  me. 

In  the  train  our  intimate  conversation  soon  became 
difficult.  People  walked  along  the  corridor  to  see  the  man 
expected  at  Lemberg.  While  we  were  at  table  in  the  dining- 
car  at  one  of  the  stations  an  old  gentleman  came  in,  and, 
with  touching  courtesy,  handed  me  a  volume  of  poetry.  At 
Przemysl  a  reporter  entered,  a  little,  good-natured,  but  neces- 
sarily intrusive  fellow,  who  was  commissioned  to  interview 
me  for  a  Lemberg  paper.  One  of  my  friends  was  kind 
enough  to  answer  on  my  behalf. 

There  was  a  swarm  of  people  at  the  station  when  we 
arrived  in  the  evening.  How  strange  is  it  to  arrive  thus,  and 
to  be  greeted  by  perfect  strangers !  One  is  surrounded, 
saluted,  shaken  hands  with,  and  is  scarcely  able  to  discern 
the  faces  or  catch  the  names  hastily  mentioned.  In  the 
waiting-room  I  was  welcomed  by  the  chairman  of  the  Literary 


170  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

and  Artistic  Union  ;  then  the  brilHant  vice-president  of  the 
Journalists'  Union  addressed  me  ;  and  then  Professor  August 
Balasits  and  M.  Antony  Wereszczynski  drove  me  to  the  hotel, 
where  I  found  a  grand  apartment  on  the  first  floor  at  my 
disposal.  On  the  tables  were  lying  invitations  for  several 
days,  visiting-cards  with  my  address  in  Lemberg,  and  many 
letters. 

At  a  long  supper-table  in  the  restaurant,  Madame  Jozefa, 
handsome,  large-eyed,  and  bashful  as  a  young  girl,  presided 
as  the  only  lady.  Members  of  the  Sobieski  Festival  Com- 
mittee dropped  in,  and  the  little  reporter  from  the  train  also 
sat  down  to  take  notes. 


Ill 

The  next  day  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  most  of  the 
persons  whom  I  was  to  meet  so  often  later — the  Mayor  of 
Lemberg,  Dr.  Godzimir  Malachowski,  who  had  invited  me, 
an  amiable,  cultured  lawyer,  elected  to  his  position  by  the 
suffrages  of  his  fellow-townsmen,  and  well  worthy  of  re- 
election ;  the  Governor  of  Galicia,  Count  Leon  Peninsky, 
formerly  Professor  of  History  at  the  University,  a  man  of 
science,  who  some  years  ago  was  requested  to  assume  the 
duties  of  governor,  none  being  better  fitted  for  them  by  social 
position,  fortune,  and  commanding  qualities ;  and  the  great 
Marshal,  Count  Stanislaw  Badeni,  a  quiet,  satirical  man  of 
the  world.  He  is  the  brother  of  the  former  Austrian  Prime 
Minister,  who  excited  so  much  discontent  among  the  German 
population  of  Austria  by  his  regulations  decreeing  equal 
rights  to  all  languages  spoken  in  the  Emperor's  dominions. 
Like  his  brother,  he  is  pronouncedly  Polish  in  type. 

Among  many  others  whom  I  visited  the  first  day,  I  must 
mention  one  of  the  best  men  of  Poland,  whose  name 
is  everywhere  pronounced  with  veneration,  Prince  Adam 
Tapiecha  ;  in  his  mingled  simplicity,  refinement,  and  geniality 
he  is  the  typical  grand  seigneur.  During  the  course  of  my 
conversation  with  him,  I  first  learned  on  what  bad  terms  the 
Poles  and  Ruthenians  of  Galicia  live  together.     The  great 


GALICIAN   NOBLES  171 

people  of  Poland  often  complain  of  the  fact  that  young 
Ruthenians,  whom  they  support  and  place,  as  soon  as  they 
achieve  independence,  become  hostile  to  the  Poles  and  ally 
themselves  with  the  Russians.  This  is  very  astonishing, 
because  in  Russia  itself  the  Little  Russian  language  is  so 
utterly  repressed  that  nowhere  within  the  frontiers  of  the 
country  are  books  allowed  to  be  published  in  it.  I  was 
soon  to  learn,  however,  on  the  other  hand,  what  depths  of 
bitterness  the  Ruthenians  nourish  against  the  Poles. 

Another  aristocrat  I  became  acquainted  with,  who  has 
devoted  his  whole  life  to  patriotic  objects,  was  the  old  Count 
Dzieduszycki,  now  an  invalid,  almost  completely  paralysed, 
and  a  prisoner  to  his  couch.  He  has,  at  his  own  expense, 
erected  a  national  museum  of  another  kind,  but  of  equal 
importance  with  the  Czartoryski  Museum  at  Cracow.  It 
contains  specimens  of  the  whole  flora  and  fauna  of  Poland, 
and  is,  besides,  ethnographic,  illustrating  the  customs,  in- 
dustries, and  costumes  of  Poland,  in  every  province  and  at 
all  periods. 

I  also  paid  a  visit  to  another  gentleman,  less  wealthy, 
but  no  less  refined  and  cultured.  M.  Wladislaw  Lozinski 
has  made  a  very  valuable  collection  of  weapons  ;  he  pos- 
sessed many  mementoes  of  the  great  period  of  Poland  ; 
they  may  not  all  be  quite  genuine,  perhaps,  but  at  any  rate 
many  of  them  are  relics.  He  and  his  wife — who,  though 
no  longer  young,  has  preserved  that  charm  which  is  the 
secret  of  the  Polish  women — have  one  of  the  most  hand- 
somely furnished  homes  in  Lemberg,  half  dwelling  and  half 
museum. 


IV 

During  my  stay  several  commemorative  festivals  were 
held  in  honour  of  Sobieski  (King  Jan  IIL  as  he  is  called  in 
Polish),  whose  equestrian  statue  was  to  be  unveiled.  At  the 
function  held  the  evening  before  this  event  my  hosts  sang, 
as  an  attention  to  their  guest,  the  Danish  song  :  IVhy  ts  the 
Vistula   swelling?     Music    and  words    are   by  Danes.     The 


172  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

words  had  been  translated,  and  the  song  was  now  given 
for  the  first  time.  It  was  most  beautifully  sung  by  a  male 
choir.  Immediately  after  the  choir  struck  up  the  national 
anthem  by  Ujejski :  Z  dymen  pozasow,  which  was  undeniably 
better  understood  and  better  known  ;  every  one  listened 
standing.  I  am  bound  to  say  that  the  Danish  song  by 
Gade,  though  much  better  executed,  did  not  please  the 
Polish  public  very  much.  Their  taste  is  rather  for  the  slow 
and  monotonous. 

It  was  a  beautiful  sunshiny  day  when  the  Sobieski  festival 
was  inaugurated  by  Divine  service  in  the  cathedral.  The 
church  was  crowded,  and  the  whole  "  Szlachta  "  had  made 
their  appearance  in  their  national  costume,  which  outside 
Russian  Poland  is  worn  on  all  solemn  occasions. 

The  Governor,  as  representative  of  the  Government,  was 
the  only  person  in  the  costume  of  our  own  days.  This 
masquerade  is  in  harmony  with  the  love  of  ancient  times 
and  things  proper  to  the  Poles  ;  and  it  was  surprising  to  see 
how  becoming  the  magnificent  old  costumes  were  to  the 
handsome,  vigorous,  manly  figures,  whose  regular  features 
preserve  the  hereditary  stamp  of  the  race. 

A  Jesuit  priest  delivered  the  historico-national  speech  in 
memory  of  Sobieski.  Then  we  walked  in  procession  from 
the  church  to  the  square,  where  the  statue  was  waiting  in  its 
coverings.  The  sun  was  shining,  the  enormous  square  was 
crowded  with  people  ;  all  balconies  and  windows  were  also 
occupied.  With  lofty  and  masterly  eloquence  he  empha- 
sised the  importance  of  the  fact  that  the  capital  of  Galicia 
had  erected  a  monument  of  the  most  beloved  King  of 
Poland  on  Polish  ground. 


At  the  morning  festival  in  the  town  hall  a  dejeuner 
was  given ;  only  a  dozen  people,  specially  invited,  were 
seated.  I  had  the  curious  honour  of  finding  myself  at 
the  same  table  with  three  archbishops,  a  complement  not  to 
be  met  with  anywhere  out  of  Rome,  save  in  Lemberg.     Un- 


GALICIAN   SAVANTS  173 

doubtedly  they  were  most  holy  men,  but  if  so,  their  exterior 
was  deceptive — and  they  ate  !  One  might  have  supposed 
they  had  fasted  for  a  week  before. 

The  other  members  of  the  clergy  I  met  were  much  more 
refined.  The  Jesuit  who  had  spoken  in  the  church  sought  me 
out  in  the  evening  at  the  Mayor's  reception,  and  thanked  me 
for  refuting  the  vulgar  prejudices  that  exist  against  the  Jesuits, 
for  whom  I  have  always  had  a  weakness. 

I  was  specially  touched  when  Father  Gnatowski,  one  of 
the  most  influential  of  the  Galician  clergy,  spoke  to  me  with 
warmth  and  kindness.  In  one  of  the  best  houses  of  the 
town  he  made  me  a  speech,  concluding  with  this  expression 
thrice  repeated  :  "  /  bless  you."  As  a  proof  of  how  perfectly  the 
Catholic  clergy  is  informed  of  all  that  even  remotely  con- 
cerns the  Church,  I  must  mention  that  Father  Gnatowski 
was  thoroughly  acquainted  with  some  remarks  I  had  several 
years  ago  addressed  to  Pere  Lange,  after  having  corrected 
some  particulars  in  a  lecture  delivered  by  him  at  the  Danish 
Students'  Club.  Father  Gnatowski  was  further  familiar  with 
an  article  published  by  me  in  a  Danish  paper,  in  connection 
with  the  conversion  of  a  Danish  lady. 


VI 

Here,  as  in  Russian  Poland,  I  made  friends  with  some 
of  the  best  specimens  of  the  scientific  Poles,  well-informed, 
sensible  men,  refined,  discreet,  and  brimming  over  with 
cordiality.  The  amiable  and  intelligent  Balasitz,  who 
during  my  stay  here  devoted  as  much  of  his  time  to  me 
as  I  wished ;  the  fine  animated  old  Dr.  Antoni  Malecki, 
famous  for  his  labours  as  the  historian  of  Polish  literature  ; 
and  the  cultivated  professor  of  medicine.  Dr.  Ziembiecki, 
who  has  studied  in  France,  and  who  wears  the  red 
ribbon  of  the  Legion  of  Honour  as  a  token  of  his  sojourn 
there.  I  also  met  with  much  learning  and  intelligence  in 
Galicia  among  unknown  people.  A  young  man,  who  had 
never  been  in  Denmark,  had  taught  himself  Danish,  and  pos- 
sessed a  copy  of  Danish  Popular  SongSj  by  Svend  Gruntvig,  with 


174  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

which  he  was  thoroughly  conversant,  and  which  he  greatly 
admired. 

Among  the  artists  I  was  most  attracted  by  Jan  Styka, 
who  has  decorated  the  great  reception-room  of  the  town 
hall  with  an  enormous  painting,  the  subject  a  kind  of  vast 
synthesis  of  Polish  history.  He  had  just  exhibited  in  Lem- 
berg  his  excellent  panorama  of  the  battle  of  Raclavice, 
painted  m  conjunction  with  the  younger  Kossak.  It 
represents  the  action  in  which  Tadeusz  Kosciuszko,  on  the 
4th  of  April  1794,  beat  the  Russian  troops  with  his  little 
army ;  the  militia  of  Cracow,  peasants,  only  armed  with 
scythes,  decided  the  day  by  an  assault  upon  the  Russian 
artillery  and  the  capture  of  their  guns.  I  share  Styka's 
enthusiasm  for  this  dictator  of  Poland,  who  was  certainly  one 
of  the  greatest  and  most  simple-minded  men  in  whom  a 
people  has  seen  itself  personified  at  its  best.  What  a  part 
he  has  played  even  in  the  imagination  of  foreign  nations 
we  may  learn  from  such  a  book  as  that  of  Robert  Arnold  on 
Kosciuszko  in  German  literature,  which  contains  an  over- 
whelming bibliography  of  German  works  alone  dealing  with 
Kosciuszko.  It  makes  a  strange  impression  to  see  youthful 
drawings  by  him  in  the  Czartoryski  Museum  in  Cracow, 
executed  in  the  most  careful  and  elegant  eighteenth-century 
style,  among  them  a  symbolical  drawing  of  the  dominions  of 
his  protector,  the  then  Prince  Czartoryski,  entitled  Le  Fleuve 
du  Tendre,  and  one  of  the  Temple  of  Honour.  For  the  rest, 
he  certainly  had  in  him  the  sacred  fire  which  of  all  his 
other  countrymen  perhaps  Mickiewicz  alone  possessed. 

Styka's  studio  was  very  interesting,  and  his  artistic  talent 
manifests  itself  best  in  his  surroundings,  which  reflect  his 
own  generous,  ardent,  and  enthusiastic  nature. 

Among  journalists,  I  met  of  course  with  all  types,  from 
the  highest  to  the  lowest.  The  cool,  patronising,  intrusive, 
calmly  insolent,  eternally  inquisitive  journalist  is  always  an 
odious  personage,  and  perhaps  especially  so  in  Poland, 
where  he  becomes  the  more  intolerable,  that  he  bears  an 
ancient  name,  is  admitted  into  aristocratic  circles,  and  knows 
how  to  make  himself  dreaded  by  the  men,  and  indispensable 
to  the  women,  whom  he  supplies  with   news  and  scandal. 


RUTHENIAN    HOSTILITY  175 

But  others  I  met  were  cultivated,  conscientious  men  of  the 
highest  breeding,  as,  for  instance,  the  excellent  staff  of 
collaborators  of  Slowo  Polsie.  A  few  have  a  surprising  gift 
for  the  instantaneous  rendering  of  a  personality  or  a  situa- 
tion, an  accomplishment  which  no  Danish  journalist  pos- 
sesses to  the  same  degree.  The  accuracy  of  Galician 
journalism  is  also  extraordinary.  The  press  as  a  whole 
does  its  very  utmost  to  obtain  genuine  and  original  informa- 
tion. Thus  one  day  I  was  much  surprised  to  see  in  one 
of  the  papers  here  a  perfectly  accurate  account  of  a  speech 
which  I  had  made  at  a  torchlight  procession  in  the  year 
1891. 

Only  a  single  section  of  the  press  became  unfavourably 
disposed  towards  me,  the  Ruthenian.  It  happened  thus : 
A  long  time  before  my  arrival  I  had  received  an  invitation 
from  the  Ruthenians  in  Lemberg  to  an  entertainment  they 
proposed  to  give.  One  day  a  deputation  of  three  Ruthenians 
appeared,  of  whom  Professor  Michael  Hruxhevski  was  the 
spokesman,  while  another,  who  now  and  then  put  in  a  word, 
was  the  well-known  agitator  and  journalist,  Jan  Franco.  These 
gentlemen  asked  me  to  attend  a  lecture  on  Little  Russian 
Literature  at  their  club,  and  be  present  at  the  ensuing  festi- 
vity. I  thanked  them  and  accepted.  But  when  in  the  course 
of  the  day  1  mentioned  this  invitation  to  my  Polish  friends, 
I  discovered  that  I  had  made  a  mistake.  They  exclaimed 
that  it  was  impossible  I  could  so  far  disregard  their  feelings 
as  to  associate  with  these  men,  who  were  their  worst  enemies, 
and  the  sworn  foes  of  the  Polish  nationality.  Though 
Hruxhevski  had  been  placed  by  the  Poles  at  their  University, 
he  had  turned  against  them  immediately  after  his  appoint- 
ment. The  next  day  an  article  in  a  Ruthenian  paper  was 
read  to  me,  in  which  Jan  Franco  eagerly  made  use  of  me 
against  the  Poles,  making  the  statement  that  /  had  been  the 
first  person  to  describe  Mickiewicz  as  the  poet  of  treason 
(a  description  he  had  merely  repeated),  and  hinting  that  the 
Poles  as  a  nation  approved  of  treachery.  He  gave  a  garbled 
version  of  my  words,  lending  them  a  meaning  exactly  the 
reverse  of  what  I  had  intended,  in  order  to  carry  his  point. 
I  at  once  sent  a  letter  to  the  Ruthenians,  couched  in  the 


176  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

most  polite  and  cautious  terms,  in  which  I  explained  that, 
knowing  nothing  of  the  merits  of  the  case,  I  sided  with 
neither  party  in  the  controversies  between  Poles  and 
Ruthenians.  I  did  not  allow  myself  to  judge  in  the  matter, 
but  as  I  had  been  invited  to  Galicia  by  the  Poles  and 
received  by  them,  and  as  they  had  given  me  to  understand 
that  they  would  consider  it  a  kind  of  treachery  if  I  attended 
the  Ruthenian  meeting,  I  was  obliged  to  beg  to  be  excused. 
I  would  not,  I  hinted  in  conclusion,  risk  the  appearance  of 
sympathising  with  treason.  Henceforward  Franco  attacked 
me  every  day,  and  he  is  not  yet  weary  of  this  work,  for  a 
long  time  after  he  reprinted  his  Ruthenian  articles  against 
me  in  German  in  Austrian  periodicals,  and  quoted  with 
exultation  some  disconnected  observations  of  an  unfavour- 
able kind,  made  by  certain  Galician  landowners  on  one  of 
the  types  in  a  book  of  mine. 

It  remains  to  say  a  few  words  of  the  ladies  in  Lemberg, 
to  whom  I  owe  such  a  debt  of  gratitude.  Even  before  my 
arrival  they  had  prepared  the  splendid  framed  address, 
which  was  handed  me  at  the  Sobieski  Festival,  with 
2000  signatures.  It  seemed  to  me  that  they  appeared 
less  in  society  than  was  the  case  in  Warsaw.  Most  of  the 
entertainments  to  which  I  had  been  invited  were  men's 
parties.  The  town  being  smaller  than  Warsaw,  a  more 
rigorous  conventionality  reigns  there.  The  social  differences 
are  more  marked.  The  ladies  of  rank  are  addressed  with 
their  titles,  which,  in  my  opinion,  is  opposed  to  good  taste, 
and  always  sounds  rather  provincial.  Perhaps  some  of  these 
grandes  dames  showed  a  certain  lack  of  consideration  for 
others  in  their  speech.  Not  that  I  personally  had  the  least 
reason  to  complain  ;  all  showed  me  the  most  exquisite 
courtesy.  But  sometimes  I  heard  sharp  remarks  flung  in 
the  faces  of  men,  who  were  obliged  to  listen  smiling,  because 
everything  is  allowed  to  the  great  lady. 

For  the  young  unmarried  women  the  rules  of  society  are 
as  severe  as  in  France.  The  young  girl  is  never  allowed  to 
go  out  alone  by  day  or  by  night,  and  I  heard  more  than 
one  passionately  envy  the  girls  of  the  North,  of  whose 
independence  they  had  heard. 


GYMNASTIC    ASSOCIATIONS  177 

The  feminine  type  in  Galicia  is  very  attractive,  if  not  so 
beautiful  as  in  Russian  Poland  ;  the  race  is  decidedly  less 
pure.  But  here  as  everywhere  on  Polish  ground  now  and 
then  one  meets  a  young  woman  so  charming,  that  one  feels 
a  kind  of  sadness  at  the  thought  of  never  seeing  her  again. 

Among  the  ladies  I  met,  several  showed  a  surprising 
knowledge  of  art ;  a  few  even  knew  all  the  less  famous 
painters  and  paintings  of  value  in  the  Italian  towns  that  are 
rarely  visited  by  the  ordinary  traveller.  Others,  less  travelled, 
were  nevertheless  keenly  interested  in  all  manifestations  of 
art.  I  should  like  to  mention  Madame  Mlodnicka,  once  the 
betrothed  of  the  famous  dead  painter,  Grottger,  and  her 
daughter,  Madame  Maryla  Wolska,  one  of  the  most  accom- 
plished women  I  ever  met,  with  a  surprising  talent  for  sculp- 
ture as  well  as  for  music  and  poetry.  In  a  Polish  family, 
that  after  1863  lived  long  in  Syria  and  Mesopotamia, 
because  the  father,  a  highly  accomplished  man,  had  been 
obliged  to  emigrate  after  the  revolt,  I  noted  in  the  beautiful 
daughters  a  most  attractive  mingling  of  Polish  and  exotic 
characteristics.  The  young  girls  spoke  Arabic  together  as 
fluently  as  they  spoke  Polish  and  French. 


VII 

An  invitation,  which  I  had  great  pleasure  in  accepting, 
was  to  attend  an  ordinary  lesson  in  the  afternoon  in  the 
Lemberg  section  of  the  gymnastic  society,  SokoL  This 
society  is  one  of  the  most  original  of  Polish  institutions. 
Sokol  includes  all  Polish  towns  outside  Russian  Poland, 
and  all  towns  in  the  new  as  well  as  in  the  old  world 
(Chicago  as  well  as  Berlin),  where  a  large  number  of 
Poles  are  living.  In  Galicia  alone  the  union  has  18,000 
members,  who  are  considered  by  all  Poles  the  flower  of 
the  national  army  of  the  future.  With  so  much  enthu- 
siasm are  gymnastics  practised  here,  that  youths  and  men  of 
sixty  perform  their  exercises  side  by  side  from  the  most 
elementary  to  the  most  difficult,  such  as  with  us  are  only 
attempted  by  professionals.     For  instance,  they  were  able  to 

M 


178  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

remain  suspended  by  their  heels  on  a  trapeze  and  swing 
round  in  the  air.  In  the  large  hall  all  sorts  of  exercises, 
hygienic  and  athletic,  were  performed  at  the  same  time  by 
different  groups. 

An  elderly  gentleman  came  to  greet  me  ;  he  had  been 
twenty  years  in  Siberia  after  1863.  "It  is  a  calumniated 
land,"  he  said,  smiling. 

The  speech  addressed  to  me  when  I  entered  the  hall,  by 
the  President  of  the  Sokol  of  Lemberg,  Dr.  Dzizelzielewicz, 
I  am  able  to  quote ;  it  is  the  only  one  of  which  a  copy  was 
handed  to  me.  It  is  interesting,  I  think,  on  account  of  the 
manly  spirit  by  which  it  is  inspired : — 

"  Friendship  in  prosperity  is  an  easy  thing,  in  adversity  a 
most  rare  one.  Only  men  with  their  hearts  in  the  right 
place  have  a  sincere  sympathy  with  the  feeble,  and  boldly 
side  with  them. 

"  I  pronounced  a  word  which  ought  not  to  be  heard  within 
these  walls.  We  are  weak  this  day,  it  is  true,  but  if  we  only 
deserved  compassion,  a  man  so  clear-sighted,  truthful,  and 
far-seeing  as  our  guest,  familiar  as  he  is  with  our  aims,  would 
not  have  shown  the  deep  interest  in  us  that  he  has  manifested. 
He  looked  for  and  probably  found  in  us  something  more 
than  an  unhappy  people  worthy  of  his  pity.  He  sought 
and  found  those,  who,  in  their  misfortune  and  in  spite  of 
their  misfortune,  bear  in  mind  their  national  dignity,  and 
whose  aim  it  is  to  throw  off  their  weakness  as  soon  as 
possible. 

"  His  visit  to  us  to-day  proves  this.  He  comes  to  us  not 
in  order  to  listen  to  words  of  gratitude,  not  to  attend  a 
festivity,  but  to  see  our  daily  work,  to  know  and  to  judge  of 
this  work. 

"Your  purpose  in  coming  here  makes  our  welcome  doubly 
warm  and  affectionate.  I  greet  you  in  the  name  of  the 
oldest  Gymnastic  Union.  Among  our  people,  once  so  rich 
in  health  and  energy,  bodily  vigour  has  of  late  been  a 
plant  slow  to  take  root  and  to  develop.  All  the  more  is  it 
essential  to  cherish  this  health  and  energy  of  the  people,  to 
cultivate  and  develop  the  body  as  carefully  as  we  tend, 
culivate,  and  develop  the  mind. 


SOKOL 


179 


"  After  long  and  toilsome  work  of  almost  thirty  years,  the 
history  of  which  is  outside  the  scope  of  my  present  remarks, 
we  have  advanced  so  far  that  our  unions  number  about  one 
hundred ;  seventeen  of  them  have  their  own  gymnasia,  and 
— we  consider  this  the  most  important  point  of  all — all 
these  unions  are  branches  of  one  parent  guild,  which 
forms  an  independent  superior  union  having  its  seat  in 
Lemberg,  and  its  rules  sanctioned  by  the  Austrian  Ministry 
of  the  Interior.  Such  a  society  also  exists  in  the  German 
Empire  and  in  the  United  States.  The  aim  of  this  fellow- 
ship is  the  homogeneity  and  firmness  of  our  organisation, 
and  we  look  to  it  to  ensure  the  exact  fulfilment  of  our  aims. 

"  I  may  be  allowed  perhaps  to  say  a  few  words  about 
these  aims.  Every  nation,  and  more  especially  a  nation 
such  as  ours,  needs  for  its  development  health,  ability,  per- 
severance, unity,  and  discipline.  Our  efforts  must  rest  on  a 
national  basis,  though  they  have  nothing  to  do  with  politics, 
and  do  not  involve  enmity  towards  other  nations.  We  want 
to  be  a  sound  and  able  people,  that  we  may  be  able  to 
hold  fast  our  privileges,  and  fulfil  our  social  duties.  Natural 
as  this  is,  there  are  many  who  do  not  choose  to  understand 
it,  and  many  who  deliberately  misrepresent  it  in  order  to 
injure  our  cause. 

"  You,  most  honoured  master,  who  have  come  with  a 
sincere  wish  to  learn  the  truth,  will  be  able  to  form  a  just 
and  impartial  notion  of  our  efforts.  We  hope  that  you  will 
make  the  truth  known  wherever  it  may  be  necessary." 

Listening  to  this  speech,  I  was  deeply  impressed  by  the 
eagerness  the  enemies  of  the  Poles  have  shown  to  see  in  this 
extensive  organisation  of  men  of  a  strong  and  capable  race 
from  early  youth  to  old  age,  a  preparation  for  rebellion. 


VIII 

Most  fatiguing  was  life  in  Lemberg !  The  day  before  I 
had  given  a  lecture  in  the  town  hall  in  aid  of  a  proposed 
statue  of  Mickiewicz,  and  it  had  given  me  great  pleasure, 
partly  because  on  this  occasion    I  met   Prince   Czartoryski 


i8o  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

— and  I  had  never  before  spoken  with  a  Czartoryski — partly 
because  I  was  able  to  present  the  town  with  a  handsome 
sum  of  money,  as  all  the  tickets  were  sold  at  high  prices. 

Early  in  the  morning  I  was  obliged  to  submit  to  be 
interviewed  for  the  Petersburg  journal,  Kraj,  and  to  do  my 
best  to  give  evasive  answers  to  adroit  questions.  During 
the  interview  the  young  author  arrived  who  was  to  introduce 
me  to  no  less  than  three  clubs  of  young  people,  two  of  men 
and  one  of  women.  I  had  unfortunately  promised  to  meet 
them  on  another  occasion,  and  had  forgotten  the  invitation. 

Even  now,  I  was  rather  late,  but  they  had  been  patiently 
waiting.  All  the  ladies  were  seated,  and  the  young  men 
were  standing  in  groups  around.  There  was  hardly  room 
to  pass,  and  here  as  elsewhere  in  Lemberg,  even  in  the 
town  hall,  the  ventilation  was  very  bad. 

It  was  one  of  the  most  remarkable  meetings  I  have 
attended  in  Poland.  Only  on  a  few  memorable  occasions 
in  Warsaw  have  I  ever  seen  so  many  young  people 
assembled.  It  was  a  representative  audience  of  the  in- 
tellectual and  advanced  youth  of  the  nation  ;  the  men  almost 
all  sociahsts,  revolutionists,  or  anarchists — not  a  few  had 
suffered  political  imprisonment  in  Russian  Poland.  The 
young  women  were  all  intellectual  workers  and  thinkers 
of  the  emancipated  type. 

They  had  invited  me  partly  to  show  their  good-will,  and 
partly  to  have  the  opportunity  of  explaining  that  I  had 
wronged  the  advanced  youth  of  Poland  by  some  conserva- 
tive notions  in  a  book  of  mine. 

There  were  certainly  not  less  than  eight  speakers,  repre- 
sentatives of  the  different  groups,  and  all  spoke  well,  clearly, 
and  instructively,  with  ideal  youthful  fervour  and  conviction. 
Most  impressive  and  attractive  to  me  among  the  speakers 
was  a  young  lady,  a  beautiful  Jewess,  Madame  Emma 
Lilienowa,  whose  simple  and  logical  speech  I  followed  with 
interest  and  admiration,  though  it  told  against  me  ;  but  in- 
wardly I  was  delighted  at  being  rebuked  as  too  conservative, 
not  so  much  because  the  situation  was  new  to  me, 
but  because  if  these  good  people  could  have  known  me 
thoroughly,  they  would  have   been   perfectly  content   with 


SOCIALIST    GRIEVANCES  i8i 

me.  If  there  be  a  point  on  which  I  have  a  clear  con- 
science, it  is  this  :  that  no  one  can  reproach  me  with  having 
too  much  respect  for  the  existing  state  of  things. 

Of  course  I  meant,  and  mean  none  the  less  to  maintain, 
what  I  asserted  in  my  book  as  to  its  being  unpractical  to 
be  a  socialist  in  Russian  Poland.  I  certainly  did  not  urge 
that  it  would  be  meaningless  to  be  a  socialist  in  Austrian 
Poland.  When  in  1885  I  stated  that  the  Jews  were  not 
ill-used  in  Poland,  I  did  not  deny  the  possibility  that  an 
intense  hatred  of  the  Jews  might  arise  in  Galicia  ten  years 
later.  If  I  had  pleaded  the  cause  of  the  Catholic  Church 
in  Poland,  in  so  far  as  I  asserted  it  to  be  the  chief  factor 
of  resistance  to  the  Russianising  of  the  country,  I  did  not 
claim  for  it  any  exclusive  privileges  either  here  or  else- 
where. Very  reasonably  they  pointed  out  the  injustice 
meted  out  to  the  Ruthenians  and  Jews,  and  the  unfair  treat- 
ment of  the  free-thinking  students  at  the  University  of 
Cracow,  urging  that  the  Poles  in  positions  of  authority  seem 
hardly  to  realise  the  nature  of  that  liberty  for  which  they 
themselves  are  struggling.  I  heard  a  great  many  things 
that  saddened  and  shocked  me,  things  I  could  hardly  have 
thought  possible.  I  will  give  an  instance  : — According  to 
law  the  Jew  is  allowed,  like  any  other  citizen,  to  possess 
land,  but  last  year,  when  a  rich  Jewish  family  bought  a 
Polish  property,  all  the  people  of  the  district  were  greatly 
agitated,  and  not  only  the  inhabitants  of  the  district,  but  the 
well-known  conservative  and  clerical  professor,  Tarnowski, 
summed  up  the  general  exasperation  elegantly  in  these 
words :  "  The  Poles  are  not  anti-Semites,  they  do  not  at 
all  hate  the  Jews,  but  they  object  to  seeing  sacred  Polish 
land  in  the  hands  of  Jews."  The  owners  of  the  estate  were 
threatened  with  death,  and  were  obliged  to  cancel  the 
bargain.  That  this  harmonises  ill  with  the  ideal  of  freedom 
is  but  too  true.  It  is  not  surprising,  therefore,  that  Zionism 
has  many  adherents  among  the  Jewish  inhabitants  of  Galicia. 
The  persecution  to  which  a  student  known  to  be  a  free- 
thinker is  often  subjected  is  hardly  less  deplorable  than  the 
want  of  toleration  shown  to  the  Jews.  But  no  one  with  the 
slightest  knowledge  of  human  nature  could  be  supposed  to 


i82  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

have  asserted  that  the  Poles  were  exceptional.  The  national 
cause  is  no  less  holy  because  of  this.  The  main  point  of 
the  ensuing  debate,  however,  as  far  as  I  was  concerned,  was 
ray  attempt  to  show  my  audience  that  I  advocated  a  con- 
servative policy  in  Russian  Poland  purely  on  strategic 
grounds.  It  took  time  to  make  myself  understood.  Un- 
fortunately for  Poland,  Macchiavelli  was  no  Pole,  and  has 
had  no  disciples  among  the  leading  men  of  Poland. 

I  had  scarcely  returned  to  the  hotel  when  I  had  to  step 
into  the  carriage  waiting  to  take  me  to  the  Union  of  Veterans, 
the  survivors  of  those  who  had  taken  part  in  the  insurrection 
of  1863.  M.  Tadeuz  Czapelski,  the  intimate  friend  of  my 
Warsaw  friends,  came  to  fetch  me.  He  was  a  member  of 
the  Union,  though  he  had  taken  no  part  in  the  actual  rising, 
being  at  the  time  a  boy  of  fourteen,  who  had  been  kept 
busily  at  work  casting  bullets.  When  we  approached  the 
house  we  caught  sight  of  the  old  men  standing  on  the  bal- 
conies waiting  for  us.  Kagetan  Ivanowski,  the  President  of 
the  Society  of  1863,  formerly  Secretary  of  State  under  the 
national  government,  and  renowned  for  his  bravery,  received 
me  at  the  entrance,  introduced  me,  and  made  a  speech, 
which  was  followed  by  numerous  others.  All  these  men 
had  served  as  soldiers  or  officers  during  the  heroic  struggle 
against  the  Russian  power.  One  among  them,  still  vigorous 
though  past  eighty,  had  been  an  officer  in  the  revolt  of  1830. 
Every  Sunday  forenoon  these  men  assemble  at  their  club  to 
partake  of  a  Spartan  meal,  consisting  of  national  dishes,  a  meal 
such  as  soldiers  share  in  camp.  I  cannot  describe  the  feeling 
which  came  over  me  when  all  these  old  men  formed  a  circle 
around  me  and,  with  great  enthusiasm,  sang  Jesd^ze  Polska. 
I  had  to  answer  all  the  speeches,  but  at  last  tears  came 
into  my  eyes  and  I  could  not  speak  for  emotion — I,  who 
never  weep.  Czapelski  and  I  took  leave  amidst  songs  and 
acclamations.  From  the  carriage  we  saw  the  veterans 
waving  farewell  to  us  till  we  turned  the  corner  of  the  street. 
At  the  hotel  we  joined  our  friends  for  lunch.  It  was  com- 
puted that  I  had  made  eleven  French  and  three  German 
speeches  that  morning.  Jan  and  Madame  Jozefa  were  to 
return  to  Warsaw   immediately   after   lunch.     A   crowd   of 


A    MODERN    FAUSTUS  183 

friends  accompanied  them  in  carriages  to  the  station,  where 
they,  moreover,  had  the  opportunity  of  taking  leave  of  the 
governor  of  Galicia,  who  had  to  go  to  Cracow  in  his  official 
capacity,  and  who  left  his  carriage  to  greet  them. 

After  having  returned  to  the  hotel  I  had  to  write  some 
friendly  parting  words  on  more  than  fifty  visiting-cards  to 
send  off  in  the  town. 

Then  I  was  expected  by  a  man,  who  had  been  repeatedly 
mentioned  to  me  even  in  Copenhagen  as  the  discoverer  of 
a  new  and  unknown  force,  the  engineer  Rychnowski.  But, 
ignorant  as  I  am  of  chemistry  and  electro-biology,  I  was 
incapable  of  forming  any  opinion  as  to  the  real  worth  of  his 
presumed  discovery. 

I  was  conducted  across  a  court  to  the  little  entrance  of 
a  side  building  where  the  laboratory  was.  It  was  dark,  and 
we  had  a  difficulty  in  finding  our  way.  A  door  was  opened, 
and  we  stood  face  to  face  with  the  strange  magus,  a  stout 
man  of  fifty  with  a  greyish  beard.  His  face  was  that  of  a 
thinker,  but  also  bore  the  stamp  of  mystery  often  seen  in  the 
countenances  of  the  half  educated  or  the  half  crazy.  He 
received  us  most  politely,  and  introduced  us  into  his  apart- 
ment. It  might  have  been  Faust's  studio,  and  suggested  the 
alchemists  of  the  Middle  Ages  to  me.  The  force  he  had 
discovered  was  a  motor  power,  stronger  than  any  other 
hitherto  known  ;  besides,  it  was  the  vital  power !  If  he 
brought  it  to  bear  upon  himself,  he  would  renew  his  youth, 
his  strength  would  increase,  and  he  would  be  able  to  endure 
bodily  and  mental  fatigues  to  an  unheard-of  extent.  On  the 
day  of  my  arrival  I  had  promised  the  old  poet  Bezazowski, 
whom  I  had  met  at  a  public  entertainment,  that  I  would  pay 
him  a  visit.  But  my  time  had  been  so  much  taken  up  that 
I  had  literally  not  had  a  single  minute  to  fulfil  my  promise. 
Now  I  drove  in  a  hurry  from  Rychnowsky  to  his  house. 

He  was  certainly  worth  meeting,  this  venerable  old  man. 
He  had  passed  the  last  half  of  his  life  as  a  consul  in  the 
East,  and  had  familiarised  himself  with  Oriental  manners 
and  customs  as  few  Europeans  are  able  to  do.  Neverthe- 
less, he  had  remained  an  enthusiastic  Polish  patriot.  As 
a  poet  he  enjoys  great  favour  among  his  countrymen. 


i84  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Unfortunately,  I  could  not  stay  more  than  half-an-hour 
with  him,  it  being  already  late.  I  had  not  done  my  packing, 
and  the  train  was  to  start  at  eleven  o'clock.  We  returned 
at  full  speed  to  the  hotel,  where  the  mayor  presently  came 
to  fetch  me,  and  for  the  second  time  this  day  off  we  went 
to  the  station,  where,  in  spite  of  the  late  hour,  a  group  of 
friends  had  assembled.  With  my  foot  on  the  carriage-step 
I  pressed  the  hand  of  old  Siberiak,  who  had  greeted  me 
in  the  Sokol  gymnasium. 

And  the  evening  came  on,  and  night  fell  on  the  last 
day  of  my  stay  in  Lemberg. 


THE    ROMANTIC    LITERATURE    OF 

POLAND    IN    THE    NINETEENTH 

CENTURY 

1886 


POINTS   OF   CONTACT   IN   POLISH   AND 
DANISH   LITERATURE 

There  are  few  points  of  contact  in  the  literatures  of  Poland 
and  Denmark. 

In  the  Polish  world  of  books  we  find  a  small  but  very 
instructive  contribution  to  the  history  of  warfare  and  cul- 
ture in  Denmark  in  the  seventeenth  century,  namely,  Jan 
Chrysostom  Pasek's  Recollections,  As  leader  of  a  division  of 
the  Polish  army,  which  came  to  the  help  of  the  Danes 
against  Charles  Gustavus  of  Sweden,  this  nobleman  was  in 
Denmark  in  1658  and  1659  ;  took  part  in  the  memorable 
conquest  of  the  island  of  Als  by  cavalrymen,  who  swam 
across  the  Alssund  with  their  pistols  behind  their  collars  and 
their  powder-horns  on  their  necks,  and  was  present  at  the 
storming  of  Koldinghus  and  the  capture  of  Fridericia.  He 
observes  and  describes  the  manners  and  customs  of  the 
peasants  ;  falls  in  love  with  the  daughter  of  a  Danish  landed 
proprietor,  who  cherishes  a  burning  love  for  him,  but  he 
tears  himself  away  from  his  sweetheart,  returns  to  his 
fatherland  and  introduces  two  things,  hitherto  unknown  in 
Poland  :  Danish  wooden  shoes  and  long  Danish  cavalry 
boots. 

He  describes  the  Danes  as  well  formed;  the  women  as 
beautiful,  btit  too  blonde.  As  regards  the  arrangements  of 
the  houses,  it  strikes  him  as  strange  that  the  places  for  sleep- 
ing are  often  mere  cupboards  in  the  walls.  As  to  manners 
and  customs,  he  is  astonished  that  every  one,  including  the 
women,  sleep  stark  naked,  and  that  no  one  regards  it  as 
indelicate  to  dress  and  undress  in  the  presence  of  others. 
When  the  Poles  criticised  this  as  indecorous  the  women 
replied  that  they  had  no  reason  to  be  ashamed  of  their 
limbs,  which  were  created  by  God.     As  regards  living,  he  is 

disgusted    at    all   the   sausage    meat,   which   is    eaten    as   a 

187 


-^ 


i88  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

delicacy,  and  as  regards  dress  this  peculiarity  has  become 
fixed  in  his  memory,  that  the  women,  who  in  other  respects 
dress  with  taste,  wear  wooden  shoes,  not  only  in  the  country, 
but  in  the  cities,  "  with  which  they  make  such  a  noise  on 
the  stone  pavements  that  one  can  hardly  hear  his  neighbour 
speak." 

Of  the  Danish  women  in  general  he  remarks  that  they 
are  not  so  reserved  in  their  affections  as  the  Polish.  "  For 
although  in  the  beginning  they  are  extremely  shy,  they  fall  in 
love  in  a  single  meeting  so  extremely  and  passionately  that 
they  cannot  conceal  their  feelings,  but  are  ready  to  leave  their 
parents  and  rich  surroundings  and  go  out  into  the  wide  world 
with  their  lovers."  He  quotes  from  a  letter  from  his  sweet- 
heart, which  as  a  specimen  of  composition  is  not  uninterest- 
ing.     It  runs  as  follows  : — 

"  High,  well-born,  gracious  Sir  ;  Persons,  who  are  dear 
to  our  hearts,  we  wish  to  honour  with  words  and  see 
with  our  eyes.  In  how  high  a  degree  my  father  has  conceived 
love  for  thy  renowned  people  and  thy  knightly  brothers-in- 
arms, he  shows  by  often  speaking  thy  name.  It  is  his 
earnest  wish  to  look  upon  thee  not  only  as  an  adopted  but 
an  actual  son.  But  if  my  father  loves  thee,  then  his 
daughter,  in  whose  heart  an  unchanging  love  for  thee  will 
continually  blossom,  loves  thee  not  less.  Oh,  couldst  thou 
read  in  my  heart  the  force  of  my  emotions  !  I  confess  now 
openly  what  I  have  so  long  kept  secret,  that  my  heart  will 
never  beat  for  any  other  man  but  thee.  ...  I  am  going 
where  fate  and  my  heart  lead  me.  My  family  may  claim 
equality  with  the  oldest  in  Poland.  If  my  character  is  not 
free  from  fault,  thou  hast  praised  it.  My  religion  does  me 
no  dishonour  ;  I  believe  in  the  holy  Trinity.  My  father's 
declaration  that  he  will  not  let  his  fortune  go  to  a  foreign 
land,  is  no  impediment.  My  father  lays  down  the  law,  but 
thou  wilt  be  able  to  interpret  it  freely,  thou  wilt  be  able 
to  assume  control  over  his  fortune.  It  is  thy  duty  to  com- 
mand and  mine  to  obey,"  &c. 

For  a  time  Pasek,  kindled  by  the  young  lady's  passion, 
was  tempted  to  stay  with  her  in  Denmark,  but  a  double 
fear  of  becoming  as  one  dead  to  his  relatives  in  Poland  and 


DANISH    WRITERS    ON    POLAND  189 

of  losing  his  eternal  salvation,  in  case  he  allowed  himself  to 
be  made  a  Lutheran,  moved  him  to  march  home  with  the 
rest  of  the  Polish  troops.  He  became  the  favourite  of  two 
kings  in  his  native  land  and  at  last  died  in  old  age  in  1700. 
It  was  not  till  1836  that  his  admirable  memoirs  were  found 
and  published. 

When  to  this  description  of  the  Denmark  of  that  period 
we  add  that  Lelewel  wrote  a  book  on  Edda  Skandinawska, 
and  that  in  several  of  the  romantic  poems  of  Poland,  as  for 
instance  in  Krasinski's  Irydion,  there  are  here  and  there  fan- 
tastic descriptions  of  Denmark  in  heathen  days,  in  "  King  " 
Odin's  time,  we  shall  have  summed  up  the  impressions  of 
Denmark  to  be  found  in  the  culture  and  intellectual  life  of 
Poland. 

But  the  existence  of  Poland  has  made  a  deeper  impres- 
sion upon  Danish  literature.  This  is  more  especially  true  of 
the  critical  periods  in  the  history  of  Poland  in  this  century, 
the  revolutions  of  1830  and  1831  and  of  1863,  which  at- 
tracted attention  to  the  country  and  aroused  sympathy,  a 
fleeting  sympathy  certainly,  but  genuine. 

Between  the  years  1830  and  1840  there  appeared  in 
Denmark,  as  elsewhere,  beautiful  and  emotional  lyric  poems 
on  Polish  subjects  (such  as  Paludan-MuUer's  Call  to  Poland, 
Aarestrup's  A  Polish  Mother),  and  in  the  fifties  appeared 
Hauch's  great  and  famous  novel,  A  Polish  Family,  with  its 
beautiful  songs,  one  of  which,  Hvorfor  svulmer  Weichselfloden, 
is  one  of  the  best  lyrics  of  our  literature. 

This  novel  is  interesting  as  the  one  great  attempt  of  a 
Dane  to  identify  himself  with  the  spiritual  and  social  life  of 
the  Poles.  Nevertheless,  as  a  novel  it  is  a  work  of  the  second 
rank,  the  description  of  character  being  weak  and  abstract. 
It  was  quite  in  accordance  with  the  spirit  of  his  time,  that 
Hauch  made  no  attempt  to  write  from  his  own  knowledge. 
He  never  travelled  in  Poland,  never  even  made  any  efforts 
to  study  one  or  two  Polish  families  before  he  so  elabor- 
ately presented  one  ;  but  he  had  studied  the  Polish  ballads, 
which  had  been  translated  with  great  diligence,  reproducing 
or  paraphrasing  many  of  them  in  Danish,  and  thus  in  the 
tones  of  sadness,  despair,  love  of  country  and  Catholic  piety. 


190  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

which    ring  through  the    romance,  an    occasional    chord  is 
struck  which  sounds  Uke  a  Polish  chord. 

Even  the  renowned  song,  which  in  a  certain  sense  is  the 
spirit  of  the  whole  book,  condensed  into  the  smallest  possible 
space  (it  is  sung  at  a  dance  in  one  of  the  principal  scenes 
in  the  book),  is  built  upon  motives  from  Polish  ballads,  still 
sung  during  the  Cracovian  dance. 

The  ballads  always  consist  of  two-line  verses,  the  first 
of  which  gives  an   image  and  the  second  a  parallel  or  an 
explanation  of  it. 
For  instance : — 

"  Yonder  by  the  high  walls  of  Cracow  the  Vistula  flows, 
All  the  sons  of  Poland  pass  away  in  long  lines." 
Hauch  expresses  it  thus  : — 

<'  The  floods  of  the  Vistula  wind  slowly  under  the  walls  of 
Cracow,  Strong  hosts  march  to  break  the  eagle's  dungeons." 
Or  again : — 

"  They  all  march  out  with  smiles  and  do  not  return.  There- 
fore woods,  meadows,  and  women  all  mourn  deeply." 

Hauch  : —  . 

"  Sword  and  scythe  flashed  in  smoke  and  fog  on  the  plain. 

Not   a  warrior  comes  back  from  the  wild  fight,  Therefore 

field  and  meadow  mourn,  And  Poland's  daughters  have  lost 

their  merry  smile." 

The  composition  of  Hauch's  poem  as  a  whole  is  far  above 
the  scattered  lines  of  the  ballads  in  effect,  but  the  Polish 
diction  is  shorter,  it  has  more  emphasis  and  force. 

Although  the  events  of  1863  gave  rise  to  several  more 
or  less  eloquent  and  well-considered  articles  in  the  Danish 
press,  they  called  forth  nothing  else  of  literary  value  save 
four  or  five  fine  poems  by  Snoilsky,  which  first  appeared  in  a 
Danish  newspaper.  Since  then  the  people  of  Denmark  have 
not  given  much  thought  to  Poland  ;  the  last  uprising  has 
been  called  the  death  battle  of  the  Poles,  and  the  Pohsh 
nation  is  regarded  as  dead. 

But  "  it  is  not  yet  all  over  with  Poland,"  although  this 
poor  Poland  resembles  an  elegant  and  defenceless  woman 
upon  whom  all  have  fallen  and  trampled.  Even  in  the 
thirties  the  friends  of  Poland  regarded  its  history  as  closed. 


HUNGARIAN    SYMPATHY  191 

In  1 83 1  the  Hungarians  in  an  address  to  the  Emperor  of 
Austria  offered  to  fit  out  at  their  own  cost  an  army  of  a 
hundred  thousand  men  to  aid  the  fighting  Poles.  The  offer 
was  naturally  declined  ;  but  in  1832,  when  all  was  over,  a 
member  of  the  Hungarian  Parliament,  Polocsy,  uttered  these 
words  :  "  If  kings  and  emperors  regard  themselves  as  members 
of  one  great  family,  and  wear  mourning  when  one  among 
them  dies,  then  with  far  greater  reason  ought  the  destruction 
of  a  nation  to  cause  all  the  other  nations  to  mourn  ;  but  the 
mourning  which  kings  wear  on  their  hats  or  arms,  these 
nations  wear  in  their  hearts."  These  are  fine  words,  but 
Poland  was  no  more  a  corpse  in  the  thirties,  than  she  is  now 
to  be  regarded  as  blotted  out  of  the  number  of  nations. 


I 

TENDENCIES  COMMON  TO  ALL  EUROPEAN  LITERA- 
TURES —  PECULIAR  FEATURES  —  RETROSPECT  — 
KOCHANOWSKI  —  SKARGA  —  JESUITISM  —  FRENCH 
PHILOSOPHY— RATIONALISM 

The  Polish  literature  of  this  century  presents  the  same 
picture  of  changing  elemental  tendencies  as  the  other 
European  literatures  with  which  I  am  familiar.  The  setting 
is  everywhere  the  same.  At  the  beginning  of  the  century 
an  antiquated  classicism  and  soon  cast  aside,  a  romanti- 
cism absorbing  the  largest  part  of  the  century,  and  in  the 
seventies  and  eighties  a  dawning  realism. 

This  is  common  to  Europe,  But  in  every  nation  these 
tendencies  assume  a  different  character,  according  to  its 
historic  theories  and  historic  relations.  The  Polish  litera- 
ture of  this  century  bears  a  peculiar  stamp,  apart  from  the 
peculiarities  issuing  from  the  national  character,  in  this 
respect,  that  it  developed  in  a  country  which  had  recently 
ceased  to  exist  as  an  independent  state.  The  literature,  and 
especially  the  poetry,  came  on  this  account  to  supply,  as  it 
were,  the  place  of  all  the  organs  of  a  national  life  which 
were  lost  at  the  partition  of  the  State.  It  gains  thereby  in 
spiritual  exaltation,  but  necessarily  loses  in  variety. 

A  brief  retrospect  of  the  history  of  development  in  the 
last  few  centuries  is  necessary  to  the  understanding  of  the 
poetry  of  the  present  century. 

The  upheavals  which  the  Reformation  caused  in  the 
principal  countries  of  Europe  left  Poland  comparatively 
undisturbed.  While  kindred  Bohemia,  under  the  desire 
for  a  great  social  and  ecclesiastical  reform,  wore  itself 
out  in  the  Hussite  War  through  the  whole  of  two 
centuries,  from  the  death  of  Huss  to  the  battle  at  the  White 

»9« 


THE    RENAISSANCE    IN    POLAND  193 

Mountain  (1620),  and  for  two  hundred  years  more  seemed 
as  if  it  had  actually  slipped  out  of  history,  under  the  stress 
of  its  superhuman  exertions,  the  Roman  Catholic  Church 
stood  comparatively  unassailed  in  Poland,  and  the  country 
was  spared  any  very  radical  religious  discord. 

The  period  which  is  generally  described  as  the  Renais- 
sance was  for  Poland  her  time  of  greatness,  and  introduced 
her  first  golden  age  of  poetic  literature.  Its  greatest  figure 
was  Jan  Kochanovski  (1530-84),  a  worshipper  of  Horace 
and  Virgil,  a  contemporary  and  acquaintance  of  Ronsard, 
who  made  his  debut  as  a  poet  in  the  Latin  language,  but 
soon  adopted  the  Polish,  becoming  its  greatest  master  of 
those  days.  Imbued  with  the  spirit  of  antiquity  and  of 
the  Renaissance,  cool  towards  Christianity,  warm  towards 
the  republic,  a  pagan  theist,  he  tried  his  hand  at  all  sorts 
of  poetry,  and  in  all  gave  evidence  of  manliness,  liberality, 
and  humanity.  His  Treny,  a  series  of  delightfully  simple 
and  touching  elegies  on  the  death  of  a  beloved  daughter, 
are  of  such  excellence  that  they  are  not  even  surpassed 
by  the  admirable  poems  on  the  same  subject,  written  by 
Victor  Hugo  so  many  years  after. 

The  two  principal  poetic  forms  which  flourished  in 
this  period  are  the  idyll  and  the  satire — the  idyll  because 
the  sympathies  of  certain  poets  break  through  that  ring 
which  the  "  Szlachta,"  the  Polish  nobility  which  is  every- 
thing in  the  republic,  has  drawn  about  itself,  and  approach 
the  common,  suppressed  people,  who  are  glorified  in 
bucolics  ;  the  satire^  because  the  sharp  critical  sense  of  other 
poets  turns  against  the  ruling  caste  of  nobility,  and  attacks 
the  idea  that  nobility  is  an  accidental  privilege  of  birth. 
Just  then,  about  the  year  1600,  the  "Szlachta"  became 
decidedly  hostile  to  progress,  clinging  desperately  to  the 
privileges  of  its  powerful  position. 

The  social  movement  in  those  times,  which  in  Germany 
was  broken  by  the  suppression  of  the  rebellion  of  the 
peasants,  and  the  extermination  of  the  Anabaptists,  was 
overcome  by  the  Polish  nobility  during  the  war  with  the 
Cossacks,  by  the  most  tremendous  efforts.  The  intellectual 
regeneration    which,    in    Germany,    when    humanism    was 

N 


194  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

absorbed  by  Lutheranism,  halted  at  the  mediocrity  of  a  civic 
and  ecclesiastic  intermediate  form,  broad  and  strong  enough 
to  resist  for  long  the  pressure  of  the  times,  became  stunted 
at  once  in  its  growth  in  Poland,  because  in  contrast  to  the 
movement  of  the  Reformation,  it  was  absorbed  by  a  humanism 
to  which  only  the  most  cultured  of  the  highest  classes  were 
susceptible,  and  which  was  therefore  overcome  with  ease, 
as  soon  as  the  religious  counter-revolution,  with  Jesuitism  at 
its  head,  attacked  it. 

Polish  Protestantism  assumed  the  form  of  a  heretical 
philosophy,  which  rejected  the  teaching  of  the  Church,  and 
at  the  same  time  its  morality,  without  being  able  to  formulate 
any  independent  positive  morality.  It  seemed  mainly  in- 
spired by  a  polemical  tendency  to  approve  all  that  had  been 
the  subject  of  earlier  prohibitions  (marriage  between  blood 
relations,  as  well  as  free  relations  between  the  sexes),  and 
by  the  dogma  that  the  confiscation  of  the  property  of  the 
Church  was  essential.  In  the  meantime,  since  the  Pro- 
testant nobility  needed  religion  to  keep  the  common  people 
in  check,  its  own  humanism  being  incomprehensible  to  the 
masses,  and  since,  trembling  for  its  privileges,  it  was 
necessarily  apprehensive  of  the  principle  of  free  investiga- 
tion, which  lies  at  the  bottom  of  all  Protestantism,  the 
appearance  and  agitation  of  individuals  of  talent  in  the 
aristocratic  and  clerical  party  was  alone  required  to  make 
this  Protestant  nobility  fall  off,  and  one  by  one  return  to 
the  motherly  bosom  of  the  Catholic  Church.  Such  an 
oratorical  genius  was  Orzechowski  (1515-66),  who  showed 
the  nobility  that  the  clergy  alone  were  able  to  strike  the 
king  with  terror  of  breaking  the  oath,  which  he  was 
always  obliged  to  swear  to  the  "  Szlachta "  promising  to 
preserve  its  privileges. 

He  was  succeeded  by  a  man  of  even  greater  and  more 
celebrated  oratorical  talent,  the  priest  Skarga  (1536-1612), 
a  Jesuit,  who  was  an  ardent  Polish  patriot,  a  regenerator 
of  fallen  Catholicism,  who  foresaw  all  the  dangers  of  the 
anarchy  of  the  nobility,  and  in  one  of  his  sermons  to  the 
diet,  even  foretold  the  partition  of  Poland.  Let  us  quote 
his  words: — 


INFLUENCE    OF    FRENCH    PHILOSOPHY      195 

"A  foreign  enemy  will  come  upon  you,  will  take 
advantage  of  your  internal  discord,  and  say :  '  Your  hearts 
have  become  divided,  now  you  will  be  ruined.'  These  in- 
ternal strifes  will  bring  you  into  a  captivity,  in  which  all 
your  freedom  will  be  lost,  and  abased.  Great  countries 
and  principalities,  which  had  become  united  with  the  crown, 
will  fall  off  and  be  torn  away,  and  you,  who  once  ruled 
other  races,  will,  like  an  abandoned  widow,  become  a 
mockery  and  sport  for  your  enemies.  You  lay  waste  your 
people  and  your  language,  the  only  free  people  among  all 
the  Slav  races,  you  destroy  what  there  is  left  of  this 
ancient  and  far-reaching  people,  and  will  be  swallowed  up 
by  other  races  who  hate  you."     (Third  sermon.) 

It  is  in  the  act  of  delivering  this  sermon  to  the  diet  that 
Skarga  is  represented  in  the  well-known  painting  by  Matejko. 

From  his  time  until  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century 
Jesuitism  was  predominant  in  Poland  and  determined  its  in- 
tellectual life.  It  was  for  ecclesiastical  even  more  than  for 
political  reasons  that  Sobieski  undertook  his  campaign  to 
Vienna  against  the  Turks  in  1683  ;  it  was  zeal  for  the  pre- 
servation of  the  Catholic  faith  that  led  the  Polish  clergy  to 
summon  the  order  of  the  Jesuits,  and  by  degrees  place  the 
whole  province  of  instruction  in  their  hands.  The  only 
intellectual  product  which  flourished  under  this  rule  was 
eloquence,  which  attained  an  extraordinary  height  in  Latin  as 
well  as  in  Polish.  It  even  became  the  custom  of  the  times 
to  mix  the  two  languages  into  a  macaronic  medley  which 
only  false  taste  could  approve. 

This  Jesuitical  movement  was  finally  dissolved  by  the 
current  which  emanated  from  the  philosophical  ideas  of 
the  eighteenth  century  in  France.  In  so  far  as  these  ideas 
were  reformatory  in  political  matters,  they  first  began  to 
influence  minds  only  when  an  incurable  breach  had  already 
been  made  in  the  Polish  State.  The  conservative  caste  of 
nobility  had  long  succeeded  in  branding  every  attempt  at 
reform  as  reactionary — that  is  to  say,  as  an  injury  to  their 
precious  personal  freedom,  that  freedom  which  through  the 
liherum  veto  had  led  to  anarchy,  and  the  sale  of  the  crown 
to  the  highest  bidder.     Now  the  young  Poles  travelled  to 


196  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

France  to  get  advice  from  its  most  celebrated  thinkers  as 
to  a  new  constitution  for  their  fatherland  threatened  with 
dissolution.  Wielhorski  addressed  himself  to  Rousseau  as 
author  of  the  Contrat  Social,  and  received  from  him  Con- 
siderations sur  le  Gouvernement  de  la  Pologne,  to  the  Abb6 
Mably,  and  procured  from  him  De  la  situation  politique  de  la 
Pologne.  So  in  our  own  days  have  Japanese  envoys  applied 
to  Professor  Gneist  in  Berlin,  requesting  him  to  draw  up  a 
constitution  for  their  country. 

Rousseau  considered  the  question  in  a  purely  a  priori 
manner.  His  dislike  of  absolute  power  led  him  to  recom- 
mend the  division  of  the  powers  of  the  State,  to  advise  a 
confederate  government,  to  adhere  to  the  elective  king,  and 
even  to  retain  the  liberum  veto,  only  limiting  its  use.  He 
advocated  democracy  in  forms  quite  unsuitable  to  Poland  ; 
his  ideas  served  as  a  pretext  to  the  later  anarchists,  the 
traitors  of  the  confederation  of  Targowice,  who  were 
protected  by  Russia.  Mably,  who  showed  more  political 
sense,  advised  the  introduction  of  a  hereditary  constitutional 
monarchy. 

The  first  partition  of  Poland  in  1772  put  an  end  to  these 
consultations  with  foreigners,  but  after  1778  the  Poles  of  the 
national  party  took  the  most  energetic  counsel  with  each 
other  as  to  the  foundation  of  a  new  form  of  government, 
finally  agreeing  upon  the  excellent  constitution  of  the  3rd 
of  May,  1 79 1,  which  has  been  called  Poland's  patent  of 
nobility  among  the  nations  of  Europe.  It  was  followed  by 
the  second  partition,  and  after  the  insurrection  of  Kosciuszko 
by  the  third. 

One  of  the  most  eminent  men  of  these  times,  the  leader  of 
the  rationalistic  classicists,  Jan  Sniadecki,  whose  narrowness 
in  relation  to  the  budding  romanticism  did  not  exclude  broad 
and  clear  views  in  other  domains,  gave  pertinent  expression 
to  the  spirit  of  these  times,  when  he  said  that  after  the  dis- 
appearance of  their  fatherland  as  a  State  the  Poles  felt 
themselves  as  it  were  condemned  to  suppress  and  ex- 
terminate all  the  mental  emotions  in  themselves  which  were 
engendered  by  education,  habit,  and  the  desire  of  seeing  the 
public  weal  advanced,  emotions  which  had  been  the  soul  of 


POLISH    SYMPATHY    WITH    FRANCE  197 

all  their  intellectual  powers  and  qualities.  "  Now,"  he  says, 
"  the  Poles  must  outlive  themselves,  must  create  for  them- 
selves a  new  soul,  and  enclose  their  emotions  within  the 
narrower  boundaries  of  private  life."  It  is  therefore  no 
wonder  that  a  pause  of  several  years  in  the  manifestation 
of  general  intellectual  development  appears  between  the  end 
of  the  kingdom  and  the  dawn  of  the  new  romantic  literary 
movements. 

During  this  pause  the  revolutionary  period  and  Napoleon's 
metamorphosis  of  European  conditions  took  place. 

Immediately  after  the  massacre  at  Praga,  the  con- 
querors imprisoned  a  number  of  the  leading  men  of  Poland  ; 
many  of  them  disappeared  in  the  fortresses  of  Prussia  and 
Austria  ;  others  were  sent  to  Siberia  ;  nay,  certain  Polish 
generals  were  carried  as  far  as  Kamschatka.  Those  who 
escaped  emigrated  to  France,  Italy,  or  Turkey. 

It  was  natural  that  the  Poles,  whose  republic  had  just 
succumbed  in  a  contest  with  three  hereditary  monarchies, 
should  sympathise  with  the  French  Republic  during  its  wars, 
and  in  the  hope  that  it  would  take  up  their  cause,  their 
legions  fought  by  the  side  of  the  French  troops.  Again 
and  again  the  Republic  and  Bonaparte  deceived  them  in 
their  hopes  ;  again  and  again  Napoleon  gave  them  promises 
he  never  thought  of  keeping  ;  again  and  again  the  Poles  shed 
their  blood  for  him  in  crowds,  nay,  in  hosts.  In  his  solitary 
sledge  journey  on  the  retreat  from  Russia,  he  was  accom- 
panied from  Smorgoni,  the  temperature  being  thirty  degrees 
below  zero  centigrade,  by  a  hundred  Polish  lancers,  who 
voluntarily  offered  their  escort  in  the  evening,  and  of  whom 
only  thirty-six  survived  the  next  morning. 

Kosciusko  did  not  believe  in  Napoleon  ;  he  refused  in 
the  most  determined  manner  to  induce  his  countrymen  to 
fight  under  him.  "And  if  you  were  made  to  do  so  by 
force  ? "  asked  the  Duke  of  Otranto  in  the  capacity  of 
negotiator.  "  Then  I  should  declare  plainly  and  loudly  that 
I  was  not  free  and  that  my  sympathies  were  not  with  you." 
— "  Very  well,  we  can  do  without  you,"  answered  Fouch^. 
They  could  to  a  certain  point,  because  the  Poles  were  carried 
away  by  the  idea  that  Napoleon,  as   the  founder  of  a  new 


198  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

dynasty,  would  be  compelled  to  wage  war  against  the  old 
royal  families  that  had  partitioned  Poland.  And  yet,  as 
already  stated,  before  his  Russian  campaign  Napoleon  did 
not  disdain  to  issue  a  proclamation  to  the  Poles  in 
Kosciusko's  name,  in  which  he  speaks  of  himself  with  the 
most  profound  admiration.  It  begins  thus  :  "  Amid  the 
din  of  arms  with  which  Poland  resounds,  Kosciusko  ad- 
dresses himself  to  you.  Thus  has  Napoleon's  high  destiny 
willed,  he  who  destroys  and  creates  kings,  who  strikes  down 
hostile  nations  with  his  lightning,  .  ,  .  the  man  of  fate  turns 
his  eyes  and  thoughts  on  you." 

Upon  all  occasions  Napoleon  abused,  sacrificed,  and 
deceived  Poland.  But  this  people,  who  since  the  dissolution 
of  the  State  seemed  doomed  to  hope  against  hope,  did  not 
abandon  him  on  that  account.  On  the  contrary.  Im- 
mediately after  the  Emperor's  fall,  as  we  shall  see,  a 
Napoleon-cult  sprang  up  in  Poland,  in  comparison  with 
which  that  in  other  countries  and  other  literatures  is  in- 
considerable. 

Alexander  I.  in  his  first  period  was  mildly  disposed  to- 
wards Poland.  In  the  short  interval  between  the  year  18 15, 
with  the  good  constitution  it  brought,  and  the  time  when 
Alexander's  reactionary  efforts  began,  the  intellectual  de- 
velopment proceeded  smoothly  and  freely,  undisturbed  by 
political  contests.  At  this  period  the  Franco-classical  pro- 
duction of  the  time  of  Stanislaus  Augustus  was  rejected  as 
mere  drawing-room  literature.  There  was  a  struggle  here 
as  elsewhere,  but  of  short  duration,  between  the  classicists 
and  the  romanticists  ;  then  the  different  provinces  enter  in 
turn  upon  the  scene,  with  their  new  brood  of  poets  ;  first 
Ukrainia,  then  Lithuania,  then  the  others,  were  all  permeated 
by  the  feeling  that  it  was  time  to  leave  the  hot  air  of 
luxurious  rooms  for  contact  with  the  people  at  large  under 
the  open  heavens. 


II 

POLISH  ROMANTICISM  DETERMINED  BY  THE  CHARACTER  OF 
THE  PEOPLE,  BY  EUROPEAN  ROMANTICISM  AND  THE  POLI- 
TICAL SITUATION— SPECIAL  POINTS  OF  VIEW  FOR  THE  ANTI- 
THESIS OF  CLASSIC  AND  ROMANTIC— WORSHIP  OF  NAPOLEON 
AND  BYRON  —  RELATION  TO  SHAKESPEARE  AND  DANTE  — 
INFLUENCE  OF  EMIGRANT  LIFE  ON  THE  SENTIMENT  OF 
WRITERS 

The  period  1 820-1 850  was  the  richest  and  most  important 
as  regards  poetry.  And  in  this  period  the  three  funda- 
mental factors  which  determined  the  Hterature  were  evidently 
these  :  the  national  character,  European  romanticism,  and 
the  exceptional  political  situation. 

The  national  character,  as  it  had  been  developed  down 
to  this  period,  was  specially  adapted  for  the  influences  of 
romanticism.  It  was  intelligent  and  magnanimous,  splen- 
dour-loving and  visionary,  with  a  propensity  to  chivalrous 
virtues  and  religious  aspirations.  Then  as  now  it  lacked 
the  ballast  which  the  Germanic  nations  have  in  their  native 
phlegm,  and  the  Latin  races  in  their  native  logic.  It  was 
akin  to  the  French  in  its  fickleness,  different  from  it  in  the 
nature  of  its  capriciousness  ;  for  the  Frenchman  is  capricious 
when  his  native  rationalism  leads  him  to  shatter  his  historic 
heritage,  the  Pole  when  temperament  or  enthusiasm  carries 
him  away.  It  was  akin  to  the  Italian  in  its  idolatry  and 
its  vivacity,  but  differed  from  it  in  its  want  of  shrewd 
political  sense,  and  of  that  plastic  tendency  which  has  made 
the  inhabitants  of  Italy  pagans  under  all  forms  of  religion. 

When  European  Romanticism  reached  this  nation,  it  did 

not   fare   as  in  Germany,   where  it  was  engendered  in  the 

non-political  societies  of  provincial  towns,  and  allied  itself 

to  the  indefinite  idealism,  the  want  of  social  feeling,  and  the 

aversion  to   reality,  which   had   laid   hold    of  the  minds  of 

thinking  men — nor  as  in  England,  where  Romanticism  found 

199 


200  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

itself  in  direct  antagonism  with  the  ingrained  bias  of  the 
people  for  the  useful  and  the  practical,  and  where  it  allied 
itself  with  the  old  Norse  tendency  to  an  indomitable  inde- 
pendence and  defiance  in  the  free  individual,  even  towards 
his  fatherland — nor  as  in  France  or  Italy,  where  a  Latin 
and  classical  element,  essentially  foreign  to  Romanticism, 
prevented  its  conquest  of  the  intellectual  heart  of  the  people, 
and  limited  it  to  a  purely  artistic  intoxication  of  short 
duration. 

In  Poland,  where  the  national  character  was  peculiarly 
adapted  to  assimilate  Romanticism,  the  common  national 
misfortune  had  moreover  given  a  romantic  bias  to  minds. 
Romanticism,  therefore,  did  not  isolate  souls  either  in 
egotism,  as  in  Germany,  or  in  wild  independence,  as  in 
England,  but  bound  them  together  in  a  visionary  feeling  of 
compalriotism.  Neither  was  it  contingent  upon  a  dislike  to 
reality,  but  upon  the  sense  that  the  fatherland  was  already 
an  unreality,  something  which  must  be  believed  in,  and  could 
not  be  seen  with  the  bodily  eye.  Finally,  the  Latin  element, 
even  if  stronger  than  in  any  other  non-Latin  country,  was 
but  an  importation,  and  made  no  serious  resistance. 

Here,  with  far  greater  force  than  elsewhere,  romantic 
enthusiasm  swept  away  all  barriers,  spread  out  in  far  wider 
circles — because  of  the  national  character,  which  is  not 
rational,  but  fantastically  heroic — and  harmonised  far  more 
thoroughly  than  elsewhere  with  existing  times  and  con- 
ditions— because  of  the  national  fate,  which  occupies  all 
thoughts,  and  round  which  all  day-dreams  revolve. 

We  shall  recognise  this  peculiarity  most  plainly  if  we 
turn  our  attention  to  countries  and  literatures  where  the 
political  situation  was  akin  to  that  of  Poland.  It  is  true 
that  a  counterpart  is  nowhere  to  be  found,  but  there  are 
analogies  more  or  less  strong. 

Let  us  consider,  for  instance,  the  Flemish  literature, 
which  arose  in  Belgium  about  1830.  It  resorts  to  great 
historical  romance  in  the  style  of  Walter  Scott,  in  order 
to  excite  Flemish  national  feeling.  Henry  Conscience's 
romance.  The  Lion  of  Flanders,  is  the  leading  work,  a  book 
of  the  same  kind  as  Rzewuski's  Memoirs  of  Soplica.      This 


MICKIEWICZ  20I 

literature  is  strongest  in  the  pure  lyric.  But  it  is  the  pro- 
duct of  a  peaceful  nation,  a  nation  not  prone  to  exaltation. 
It  is  a  literature  of  the  common  people,  which  clings  to  the 
earth,  not  like  the  Polish,  a  soaring  and  flaming  poetry, 
which  throws  its  light  over  the  whole  horizon,  and  loses 
itself  in  the  clouds. 

Or  let  us  consider  Finland,  with  her  Runeberg,  who 
has  analogies  with  Mickiewicz.  Fanrick  Stals  Sdgner,  which 
treats  of  the  contest  for  Finland  in  the  year  1810,  is  cer- 
tainly the  nearest  European  counterpart  to  Pan  Tadeusz. 
The  author  describes  the  Finnish  national  character,  as  it 
appeared  during  the  war,  just  as  Pan  Tadeusz  presents  the 
Polish  national  character  of  the  same  time.  There  is  no 
national  hatred  in  any  of  these  poems.  The  only  Russian 
officer  who  figures  in  the  Finnish  poetic  cycle,  Kulneff,  is 
the  type  of  a  noble  enemy,  high-minded  and  gentle ;  the 
only  Russian  officer  who  figures  in  the  Polish  epic,  Rykow, 
is  an  honourable  man,  incorruptible,  faithful,  and  brave. 

What  is  lacking  in  Runeberg  is  the  lofty  national  self- 
criticism,  which  distinguishes  Mickiewicz,  and  the  poets 
of  Poland  as  a  whole.  His  Finns  are  heroes,  heroes  "  in 
winter  dress,"  heroes  in  tatters  sometimes,  but  always  heroes. 
They  have  almost  no  faults.  In  spite  of  all  their  glowing 
love  for  their  countrymen,  the  poets  of  Poland  are  far  more 
synthetic,  painting  the  frail  as  well  as  the  strong  side  of 
the  inherited  character  of  their  nation.  To  be  sure  they 
have  had  a  far  richer  material  at  their  command  ;  they 
were  not  an  undeveloped  people  like  the  Finns,  whose  lan- 
guage even  lacked  all  literary  form  and  polish,  but  a  people 
with  the  lights  and  shadows  of  a  thousand  years  of  civilisa- 
tion. 

The  peculiar  situation  of  Poland  necessarily  modifies 
the  points  of  view  from  which  we  contrast  Classicism  and 
Romanticism  elsewhere. 

When  we  read  Mickiewicz's  poem,  Romanticism,  with  its 
dogma  that  the  superstitions  of  the  people  are  worth  more 
than  classical  rationalism,  we  note  in  this  enthusiasm  for  a 
belief  in  ghosts,  and  this  hatred  for  cold  acumen,  which 
observes    through    the    microscope,    something    which    is 


202  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

common  to  Romanticism  in  all  countries,  nay,  something 
wearisomely  romantic.  The  romanticists  everywhere  feel  a 
satisfaction  in  leading  the  swelling  currents  of  new  emotion 
into  spiritual  beliefs  and  popular  superstition.  Everywhere 
also  there  is  a  connection  between  the  advent  of  Romanti- 
cism in  literature,  and  the  great  religious  reaction  of  the 
nineteenth  century  against  the  indifference  to  all  dogma  of 
the  eighteenth. 

But  there  are  two  circumstances  which  nevertheless  give 
Polish  Romanticism  a  peculiar  character.  Firstly,  the 
opposing  catholic  tendency  had  not  the  medieval  feudal 
stamp  as  elsewhere.  Secondly,  the  double  contrast  of 
Classicism  and  Romanticism,  Liberalism  and  Conservatism, 
did  not  obtain  here  as  in  so  many  other  countries.  In  France, 
for  instance,  Romanticism  from  the  beginning  was  suspected 
not  only  as  hostile  to  enlightenment  but  as  legitimist.  Victor 
Hugo's  first  odes  and  ballads  were  both  anti-Voltairean  and 
loyal.  The  most  distinguished  opponent  of  the  Romanticists 
was  the  celebrated  liberal,  Armand  Carrel,  the  recognised 
leader  of  the  French  republicans.  In  Poland,  on  the  con- 
trary, the  opponents  of  Romanticism  (men  like  Sniadecki, 
Beku,  Osinski)  were  usually  officials,  and  conservative  in 
their  political  convictions,  while  from  the  very  first  Romanti- 
cism was  rightly  regarded  as  oppositional. 

As  the  recognised  laureate  of  a  whole  nation  in  the  first 
half  of  the  nineteenth  century  Mickiewicz  occupies  a 
position,  which  finds  a  parallel  in  that  of  Oehlenschlaeger 
and  Tegn6r.  But  apart  from  all  other  dissimilarities, 
there  is  this  difference  between  Mickiewicz  and  the  two 
Norse  poets,  that  when  the  latter  employed  their  talents  to 
glorify  their  nation,  they  chose  the  material  of  its  legendary 
world  or  worked  out  themes  from  its  antiquity,  its  middle 
ages,  or  even  a  more  distant  past,  substantially  without 
ever  describing  the  life  they  themselves  had  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  observing,  while  Mickiewicz,  especially  where  he 
is  at  his  best  (as  in  Pan  Tadeusz  and  certain  parts  of 
Dziady)  reproduces  a  life  he  has  seen  with  his  own  eyes,  or 
a  life  the  memory  of  which  still  hovers  in  the  air  about 
him. 


ROMANTIC    POETS    OF    POLAND  203 

This  is  the  secret  of  his  superiority  over  a  whole  army 
of  contemporary  national  poets  ;  it  is  this  which  gives  his 
Romanticism  and  that  of  several  of  his  contemporaries 
in  Poland  a  comparatively  modern  stamp.  At  that  time 
they  did  not  yet  feel  in  Europe  that  the  poet  must  be 
the  offspring  of  his  age  as  a  rule  ;  they  were  too  strongly 
attracted  by  distant  times  or  foreign  countries.  The  results 
in  their  descriptions  of  mankind,  oftener  than  not,  were 
beings  who  never  existed  and  never  could  exist,  beings 
whose  spiritual  life  was  created  by  the  subtraction  of  a  great 
many  qualities  which  only  modern  men  can  have,  and  by  the 
mechanical  addition  of  qualities  which  the  poet's  reading 
had  taught  him  were  found  in  the  past.  Not  in  consequence 
of  a  correct  theory,  but  by  virtue  of  a  sound  instinct, 
Mickiewicz  resorted  to  an  old  subject  or  a  distant  period  only 
when  political  considerations  made  it  easier  for  him  to  express 
what  he  had  at  heart,  when  the  fundamental  thought  con- 
cealed itself  behind  an  allegory,  as  is  the  case  in  Grazyna  and 
Wallenrod. 

Throughout  the  romantic  literature  of  Poland,  we  find 
here  and  there  traits  so  realistic  that  they  do  not  seem  to 
belong  to  the  period.  In  some  of  the  poets  the  observ- 
ance of  reality  is  carried  so  far,  that  they  even  introduce 
living  or  recently  deceased  persons  into  their  poems.  But 
that  which  is  peculiarly  Polish,  is  that  hand  in  hand  with 
the  hankering  after  reality  and  futurity  there  is  an  uncon- 
querable tendency  to  abstraction,  allegory,  and  superstition. 
They  are  at  once  realists  and  spiritualists. 

Two  circumstances  united  to  make  their  poems  abstract 
and  allegorical :  first,  the  propensity  to  mysticism  which  lay 
in  the  inmost  recesses  of  their  souls  and  which,  after  having 
slumbered  for  a  while,  was  easily  awakened  in  them  all,  since 
they  had  been  educated  as  Catholics  from  the  first  ;  in  the 
next  place,  the  political  oppression,  the  consideration  of  the 
censorship  which  compelled  them  to  describe  their  thoughts 
by  circumlocution,  and  etherealise  the  outlines  of  the  beings 
whom  they  painted. 

There  were,  in  particular,  two  great  persons,  at  that  time 
recently  deceased,  who  had  set  the  forces  of  imagination 


204  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

in  motion  all  over  Europe,  but  who  aroused  greater  enthus- 
iasm here  than  in  any  other  country  outside  of  their  native 
lands :  Napoleon  and  Byron. 

It  was  the  period  when  the  cult  of  Napoleon  was  spread- 
ing over  Europe.  The  real  being  was  forgotten  ;  genuine 
historical  research  had  not  yet  begun.  Napoleon  had 
become  a  legend,  which  had  deeply  affected  Henry  Beyle,  of 
which  Victor  Hugo,  B^ranger,  and  Heinrich  Heine,  each  in 
his  own  way,  made  themselves  priests,  and  which  Thiers 
unfolded  as  a  great  epopee,  accessible  to  the  crowd.  How- 
ever little  cause  the  Poles  had  to  thank  Napoleon,  they  had 
attached  such  great  hopes  to  him,  that  after  the  desolation 
of  the  last  years  of  his  life  and  his  impressive  death  had 
cast  a  transfiguring  light  over  his  life,  they  continued  to  pay 
honour  to  his  shade  as  their  liberator  and  saviour. 

As  the  years  passed  by  after  his  fall,  he  became  the 
superhuman,  supernatural  man  to  the  popular  fancy.  To 
the  Romanticists  he  became  an  enigma.  In  those  days 
the  eighteenth  century  was  regarded  as  the  time  of 
frivolous  exposition.  Here  was  a  phenomenon  which 
could  not  be  judged  by  ordinary  standards  of  intellectual 
observation.  This  awakened  anew  the  quality  of  admira- 
tion, which  had  been  lost  in  the  preceding  century.  They 
thought  that  the  prosaic  English  hated  him  because 
he  was  incomprehensible  to  them.  No  human  being  had 
been  able  to  strike  him  down,  nor  any  general  but  General 
Frost  and  General  Hunger.  In  the  preface  to  Dawn 
{Przedswif)  Krasinski  dates  a  new  epoch  from  Napoleon. 
He  says : — 

"  The  age  of  Caesar  has  returned  in  that  of  Napoleon. 
And  the  Christian  Caesar,  who  is  superior  to  his  prede- 
cessor by  the  achievement  of  nineteen  centuries,  and  who 
was  perfectly  clear  as  to  himself  and  the  object  for  which  the 
divine  spirit,  which  leads  the  course  of  history,  had  sent 
him — dying,  said  on  his  rock  of  exile  :  '  The  beginning  of 
a  new  period  will  be  reckoned  from  me.'  These  words 
contain  a  complete  revelation  concerning  him  and  the 
future."  Mickiewicz  in  his  mystic  period  reveres  Napoleon 
as  a  demi-god.     He  was  no  Gaul,  he  had  no  esprit,  no  wit, 


NAPOLEON    AND    BYRON  205 

he  felt  himself  drawn  to  the  East.  "  Like  all  the  greatest 
men/'  says  Mickiewicz  with  a  turn  which  foreshadows 
Disraeli,  "  Napoleon  felt  himself  mysteriously  at  home 
in  the  East."  His  life  demonstrated  to  Mickiewicz  the 
existence  of  the  invisible  and  mystic  world.  He  believed  in 
omens,  and  acted  on  them  ;  he  had  direct  intuition.  There- 
fore he  is  the  man  of  the  Slav  race  ;  for  the  Slavs  are  a 
people  of  intuition.  And  thus  for  Mickiewicz  he  becomes 
the  source  of  everything  which  the  Polish  people  of  that 
time  admire.  . 

Again  and  again  Mickiewicz  contends  that  Napoleon 
created  Byron,  and  that  Byron's  life  and  glory  had  awakened 
Pushkin,  so  that  Napoleon  had  also  indirectly  engendered 
the  latter. 

Since  poetry,  according  to  Mickiewicz's  definition,  is 
action,  Napoleon's  life  becomes  the  loftiest  poetry.  Nay, 
even  more  ;  his  mission  was  to  liberate  nations  and  there- 
by the  whole  world.  (Preface  to  L'£glise  et  le  Messianisnte.) 
And  while  St.  Helena  comes  near  to  being  a  place  of 
suffering  like  Golgotha,  a  glimmer  of  the  Passion  of  Christ 
falls  over  the  life  and  death  of  Napoleon. 

The  same  propensity  to  uncritical  transports,  the  same 
enthusiasm  for  the  dazzling,  is  brought  to  light  in  the 
relations  of  these  Slav  poets  to  Byron.  Thus  poets  so  diverse 
as  Mickiewicz  and  Slowacki  meet  on  common  ground  for 
years  in  their  Byronism.  As  Washington  had  made  no 
impression  on  them  while  Napoleon  fascinated  them,  so  not 
one  of  them  cared  for  Shelley,  while  Byron  was  on  every- 
body's lips.  They  believed  in  all  seriousness  that  Byron  was 
the  greatest  lyric  poet  of  England. 

To  make  Byron's  intellectual  descent  from  Napoleon 
more  obvious,  Mickiewicz,  who  had  evidently  no  knowledge 
of  Wordsworth,  or  Coleridge,  or  Keats,  or  Shelley,  wrote  : 
"  I  regard  it  as  certain  that  the  flash  which  kindled  the  fire 
of  the  English  poet  came  from  the  soul  of  Napoleon.  How 
could  we  otherwise  explain  this  man's  existence  in  the  midst 
of  the  jejune  English  literature  of  his  day,  a  survival  of  the 
former  century  ?  .  .  .  Byron's  English  contemporaries,  in 
spite  of  the  example  of  his  genius  and  the  influence  eman- 


2o6  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

ating  therefrom,  produced  nothing  which  can  be  compared 
therewith  ;  and  after  the  death  of  the  poet,  English  literature 
sank  back  to  the  level  of  that  of  the  past  century." 

Every  sentence  here  is  a  blunder.  Every  one  of  the 
contemporaries  of  Byron  named  above,  so  far  as  poetry  is 
concerned,  several  times  reached  his  level,  and  in  some 
respects  even  excelled  him.  But  undeniably  no  one  of  them 
was  so  dazzling  as  he  ;  they  were  neither  dandies  and 
poseurs  in  youth,  nor  theatrically  heroic  as  men.  Even  he 
who  would  by  no  means  rob  Byron  of  his  undying  honour 
as  a  poet,  and  of  his  never-to-be-forgotten  services  as  a 
friend  of  freedom,  must  feel  that  in  Poland  he  is  estimated 
as  much  by  his  false  prestige  as  by  his  real  greatness. 

Nevertheless  Napoleon  and  Byron  have  this  merit  in 
common,  that  they  drew  the  Poles  out  of  their  purely 
national  absorption.  Polish  literature  had  been  national  in 
the  sixteenth  century,  but  it  had  lacked  the  stamp  of  common 
humanity  which  makes  a  literature  accessible  to  Europe 
at  large  ;  in  the  eighteenth  century  it  had  been  cosmopolitan, 
but  in  such  a  fashion  that  it  ended  in  the  French  imitation  of 
classical  culture  without  the  deeper  national  stamp,  which 
makes  a  literature  interesting  to  Europe.  Sniadecki  was  a 
friend  and  admirer  of  Delille,  Bogomolec  imitated  the  plays 
of  Moli^re  in  a  conventional  and  foreign  style.  This  litera- 
ture had  become  petrified  in  its  slavish  reverence  for  rules. 
Now  all  barriers  were  broken  down.  A  time  of  national 
wandering  had  returned.  The  material  boundaries  were  no 
longer  fixed,  and  the  intellectual  boundaries  widened  at  the 
same  time.  The  Poles  fought  under  Napoleon  in  the  most 
diverse  countries,  and  Napoleon's  hosts  brought  troops  of 
the  most  diverse  races  through  Poland.  So,  too,  in  the 
intellectual  world,  when  the  nations  mingled  intellectually, 
the  Poles  found  in  the  poetry  of  Byron  the  common 
European  despair  and  thirst  for  liberty,  supplemented  them 
with  their  national  peculiarities,  and  introduced  them  after 
the  manner  of  Byron  to  their  countrymen. 

Of  the  great  poets  whom  the  romantic  school  in  Germany 
had  first  revealed  to  the  romanticists  in  all  countries,  Shake- 
speare and  Dante  made  the  greatest  impression  in  Poland. 


SHAKESPEARE    AND    DANTE  207 

Slowacki  especially  appropriates  Shakespeare's  style  and 
manner  of  treatment.  Nevertheless  what  made  the  most 
impression  in  Shakespeare  were  the  horrible  events,  the 
murders  and  mutilations,  which  appear  in  some  of  the 
historical  plays  and  legendary  tragedies.  The  Polish  fancy 
was  attracted  by  that  side  of  Shakespeare  which  is  most 
strikingly  represented  in  his  earlier  drama,  Titus  Andronicus, 
with  its  accumulated  horrors.  Only  rarely  is  this  tempered 
by  the  influence  of  the  Shakespearean  comedies,  as  in 
Ballandyna. 

But  perhaps  the  kinship  which  the  Polish  authors  of 
this  time  felt  for  the  great  exiled  Italian,  whose  poem  was 
separated  from  them  by  so  many  centuries,  is  most 
significant.  They  were  unhappy  and  exiled  as  he  was ; 
like  him,  they  looked  on  at  the  political  destruction  of  a 
state  by  acts  of  violence,  and  sought,  as  he  did,  consolation 
in  penal  sentences  and  prophecies.  Krasinski  especially  is 
under  his  influence,  and  through  Krasinski,  Slowacki.  It 
is  the  influence  of  the  Inferno  which  can  be  most  plainly 
traced.  Only  rarely,  as  in  some  of  Krasinski's  poems,  does 
a  form  like  that  of  Beatrice  point  towards  a  regenerate  world 
and  a  happy  life. 

Now  just  as  the  special  fate  of  the  nation  determines 
its  receptiveness  of  foreign  influence,  it  modifies,  as  we  have 
seen,  the  point  of  view  in  judging  of  opposing  forces  like 
classicalism  and  romanticism,  reaction  and  progress.  It 
acts  on  the  character  of  the  literature  so  strongly,  because  it 
first  acts  on  that  of  the  writers. 

They  have  much  in  common.  They  are  all  of  aristo- 
cratic birth,  all  educated  in  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  all 
passionate  patriots.  But  they  have  this  in  common  especially, 
that  they  all  left  their  country  between  twenty  and  thirty  years 
of  age,  and  never  returned.  Even  those  authors  among 
them  who  had  not  taken  part  in  the  rebellion  of  1830,  went 
away  to  a  foreign  land  in  order  to  write  freely.  Therefore 
they  all  become  emigrants  and  pilgrims,  work  as  leaders  who 
have  no  firm  connection  with  their  people,  and  are  never 
sure  of  a  following,  and  live  in  a  state  of  hope  constantly 
deferred  as  to  a  general  revolution  in  European  politics. 


2o8  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

All  this  together  evoked  a  political  Romanticism  of  a 
special  kind,  very  different  from  the  reactionary  German  and 
the  humanitarian  French  varieties. 

But  what  especially  interests  us  in  these  men  is  to  note 
the  influence  of  the  emigrant's  life  on  the  emotional  life 
of  the  author. 

They  are  enthusiasts  by  nature,  and  as  romanticists, 
enthusiasts  by  theory.  The  emigration  gives  their  emotional 
life  something  morbid,  impatient,  meaninglessly  restless,  be- 
cause it  doubles  its  exaltation. 

Let  us  see  what  forms  an  elemental  emotion  like  love 
takes  on  with  them. 

Mickiewicz,  who  had  long  been  in  love  with  Eva 
Ankwiczova,  had  even  been  religiously  affected  by  her 
childlike  faith,  nay,  by  her  visions — she  had  seen  him  in 
white  robes  with  a  lamb  in  his  arms — suddenly  leaves  Rome 
just  as  Eva's  father  is  on  the  point  of  giving  his  consent  to 
their  union,  which  he  had  for  some  time  forbidden,  and 
never  again  seeks  to  see  his  loved  one,  the  memory  of  whom 
nevertheless  fills  his  chief  work,  Pan  Tadeusz. 

Krasinski,  who  had  paid  homage  to  his  friend.  Madam 
Delphine  Potocka,  in  the  most  extravagant  language  as  his 
soul's  sister,  his  muse,  &c.,  as  a  minor,  abandons  his  loved 
one  in  obedience  to  his  father,  and  marries  another  lady  in 
accordance  with  his  father's  wish.  But  at  the  same  time  he 
writes  to  the  deserted  lady,  whom  he  sings  in  his  poem.  The 
Dawn  :  "  Pray  for  me,  that  my  eternal  love  for  thee  may  not 
drag  me  down  to  hell.  Pray  that  I  may  sometime  fight  my 
way  to  God  in  heaven  to  meet  thee  again ! " 

Slowacki  becomes  acquainted  with  Maria  Wodzinska, 
while  in  Madam  Patteg's  pension  on  the  lake  of  Geneva. 
Both  the  two  young  people  cherish  a  strong  passion  for  each 
other,  and  Slowacki's  delicate  and  intellectual  poem,  In 
Switzerlandy  survives  as  a  memorial  of  the  happy  hours  of 
this  love  in  beautiful  surroundings.  But  the  middle-aged 
daughter  of  Madam  Patteg,  Eglantine,  who  is  enamoured 
of  Slowacki,  languishes  and  raves  in  her  jealousy,  and  makes 
scenes.  This  is  enough  to  make  the  poet  draw  back  from 
his  beloved,  and  the  Wodzinski  family  depart.      Slowacki 


TOWIANSKI  209 

moves  over  to  the  other  side  of  the  lake  of  Geneva,  writes  a 
poem  to  Eglantine,  The  Accursed,  and  then  returns  to  her 
again. 

The  passions,  indeed,  seem  strong,  but  the  characters 
are  weak.  These  poets  leave  their  loved  ones,  not  to  save 
themselves  from  the  consequences  of  passion,  nor  from 
fear  of  ties  (like  Goethe),  nor  because  they  have  ceased  to 
love,  or  feel  themselves  drawn  in  another  direction ;  they 
behave  as  if  they  had  become  a  little  unhinged. 

As  nomads  or  emigrants  they  are  dependent,  not  lords 
of  their  fate,  and  far  too  fantastical  to  lay  out  a  practical 
plan  of  life.  They  have  no  abiding  place,  no  home.  Their 
upheaval  from  their  paternal  soil  affects  their  characters, 
makes  them  unstable,  and  increases  their  propensity  to  a 
mystic  intellectual  life. 

When  in  the  beginning  of  the  forties,  Towianski,  a  Polish 
nationalist  visionary,  a  cross  between  P6re  Enfantin  and 
Cagliostro,  suddenly  appears  among  them,  most  of  them 
fall  under  his  power.  And  even  those  who  do  not  follow 
him,  become  none  the  less  mystics,  at  least  at  some  period 
in  their  life.  They  die  young,  worn  out  long  before  old 
age,  either  in  monastic  subjection,  like  the  once  indomitably 
defiant  Slowacki,  or,  like  Krasinski,  in  a  mental  condition  of 
uninterrupted  melancholy,  to  which  he  gave  expression  in 
the  words  :  "  Thy  people  has  been  given  to  other  races  to 
eat,  for  the  renewal  of  their  blood." 

They  were  all  religiously  inclined  or  religiously  educated. 
They  expected  that  an  object  was  to  be  accomplished  directly 
or  indirectly  in  every  great  event,  consequently  also  in  all 
that  most  nearly  concerned  them;  they  traced  a  divine  plan 
in  what  they  experienced  in  life.  They  did  not  understand 
that  a  nation  could  be  annihilated,  blotted  out  from  the 
number  of  the  living.  When  these  Roman  Catholics  looked 
out  over  human  life  and  history,  they  could  not  conceive 
that  the  bad  and  the  hard-hearted,  the  cruel  and  the  ruthless, 
should  prosper  so  greatly,  and  that  God  should  make  no 
sign.  They  thought  that  the  Almighty  must  have  concealed 
a  mysterious  meaning  in  all  things,  so  that  at  last  everything 
must  turn  to  good. 

O 


2  10  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

If  they  believed  it  possible  to  decipher  this  meaning  they 
became  preachers,  seers,  and  prophets ;  when  they  despaired 
of  finding  this,  they  held  their  peace  in  disconsolate  grief. 
But  all  their  thoughts  and  dreams  revolved  about  the 
mysterious  significance  of  the  great  shipwreck  their  State 
had  suffered. 

There  is  something  deeply  romantic  in  this.  The 
romantic  intellect  is  (as  I  have  elsewhere  said)  a  kind  of 
atavism.  It  questions,  as  men  in  remote  superstitious  times 
did.  It  asks  for  the  significance  of  what  happens,  while 
the  modern  intellect  asks  for  its  cause.  Thus  these  minds 
hardly  ever  seek  the  causes  of  Poland's  fate,  but  they  seek 
with  anguish,  with  poetic  frenzy,  and  the  added  passion 
of  the  religious  visionary,  to  penetrate  the  darkness,  to 
learn  the  significance  of  that  fate,  and  phantasy,  enthusiasm, 
and  passion  give  the  answer. 

Generally  they  start  from  certain  historical  assertions  as 
dogmas.  In  the  past  of  their  nation  we  note  traits  of 
character,  peculiar  and  important,  to  be  found  in  no  other 
nation.  These  traits  emanated  from  pre  -  historic  Slav 
antiquity,  and  the  future  of  the  nation  depended  on  loyalty 
to  these  primitive  national  institutions  (the  assemblies  of  the 
people,  and  the  Slav  communism  in  property,  although  the 
latter  is  more  Russian  than  Polish).  The  misfortune  of  the 
nation  was  due  to  its  defection  from  these.  In  other  words, 
they  fastened  on  a  little  group  of  cognate  ideas  and  principles, 
which,  as  Spasovicz  has  expressed  it,  being  inherent  in  the 
nation  from  its  origin  should  indicate  its  vocation.  The  great 
and  learned  historian  of  that  time,  Lelewel,  a,  writer  some- 
what earlier  than  the  Romantic  school,  and  one  who  in 
many  respects  had  a  very  strong  influence  on  their  funda- 
mental theories,  formulated  this  theory,  which  for  one  or  two 
generations  was  undisputed  in  Poland. 

It  might  seem  that  the  poets  would  have  served  their 
people  better  if  they,  with  their  greater  insight  into  the 
powers  which  are  effective  in  history,  had  presented  the 
causes  of  the  disappearance  of  the  nation  as  a  State;  their 
readers  would  then  have  gained  some  insight  into  the 
means  of  withstanding  the  national  decay,  and  of  aiding  in 


EXALTATION    OF    POLISH    POETRY  211 

a  resurrection.  But,  in  reality,  their  poetry,  by  its  very 
obscure  and  prophetic  character,  has  had  a  greater  bearing 
on  the  future  of  the  nation  than  a  lucid  or  even  a  logical 
and  convincing  poetry  could  have  had.  Their  over- 
exaltation  which  explained  nothing,  but  which  was  in  itself 
so  explicable,  inspired  readers  with  an  enthusiasm  which, 
in  the  political  conditions  they  were  in,  was  very  useful, 
nay,  necessary.  It  inspired  perseverance,  self-reliance,  firm 
faith  in  the  future,  and  obstinate  optimism,  which  were 
so  much  the  more  remarkable,  as  no  country  seemed  likely 
to  offer  a  more  fruitful  soil  for  pessimism. 

It  is  as  if  the  poets  had  felt  that  their  mission  was  to 
give  the  people  spiritual  nourishment  and  a  spiritual  tonic 
to  support  them  on  their  way,  even  if  this  should  lead  them 
on  for  some  hundreds  of  years.  Therefore  in  their  works 
they  concentrated  all  their  thoughts  upon  their  own  nation, 
condensed  and  compressed  patriotism,  hope,  hatred  of 
treason  and  wrong,  confidence  in  the  final  victory  of  the 
right,  focussing  these  emotions  round  a  common  centre  in 
a  perfectly  unique  fashion.  Hence  they  are  not  seekers  of 
truth  but  soothsayers. 

In  this  way  their  poetry  acquired  a  peculiar  stamp  both 
religious  and  artistic.  The  idea  of  nationality  which  per- 
meates everything  with  them,  was  embraced  with  a  religious 
heartiness  in  its  essence,  and  the  contest  for  it  was  accepted 
as  a  duty  of  a  religious  nature. 

Thus  it  came  to  pass  that  the  Polish  poetry  of  the 
Romantic  period,  which  superficially  gives  such  a  defective 
picture  of  the  condition  of  the  country  and  of  the  people, 
taken  as  a  whole  constitutes  a  sort  of  modern  Bible,  an  Old 
Testament  with  its  books  of  the  Judges  and  the  Prophets, 
with  patriarchal  descriptions  (as  we  find  in  Rzewuski  or 
in  Pan  Tadeusz),  with  psalms  (like  Krasinski's),  here  and 
there  with  representations  of  a  Judith,  of  a  struggle  of  the 
Maccabees,  or  of  a  persecuted  Job,  and  now  and  then  with 
a  hymn  of  love,  more  ethereal,  but  far  weaker  than  that  of 
old  Palestine. 

The  whole  may  be  regarded  as  a  collection  of  national 
books  of  devotion. 


212  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

The  literature  most  distinctly  assumes  this  character 
from  the  time  (1830)  when  the  Polish  nation  next  con- 
ceives hopes,  rises,  and  is  crushed,  and  when  its  youog 
generation  is  sent  to  Siberia,  and  its  poets  emigrate,  so  that 
we  get  three  kinds  of  Polish  literature — that  of  those  who 
were  transported,  of  those  who  emigrated,  and  of  those  who 
remained  at  home. 

In  the  eyes  of  the  Poles  the  cause  of  Poland,  far  from 
sinking  from  this  moment,  becomes  for  them  the  holy  cause, 
the  country  the  holy  country,  the  people  the  martyr  people, 
the  people  of  freedom  who  suffer  for  the  whole  of  humanity. 
The  symbolic  importance  they  had  once  given  to  Napoleon 
as  the  saviour  of  the  nations,  Poland  itself  now  assumes,  only 
the  picture  shines  with  still  more  glowing  colours. 

Stephen  Garczynski  writes  thus  during  the  cannonade  of 
the  redoubts  of  Warsaw  : — 

"  O  my  nation  !  As  the  Saviour's  wounded  head  for  ever 
impressed  its  bloody  image  upon  a  veil,  so  wilt  thou,  my 
nation,  stamp  the  bloody  image  of  thy  fate  upon  the  whole 
of  this  generation.  Thou  wilt  throw  this  generation  into 
the  face  of  Europe  as  were  it  Veronica's  veil,  and  the  history 
of  thy  suffering  will  be  read  thereupon.  And  the  time  will 
come,  ye  nations  of  Europe !  when  your  eyes  and  thoughts 
will  be  fixed  as  if  by  enchantment  on  the  bloody  image  of 
the  crucified  nation." 

Thus  also  cries  the  Abbot  in  the  second  part  of  Mickie- 
wicz's  Dziady  in  the  great  vision  scene,  which  symbolises  the 
attitude  of  Russia,  France,  Prussia,  and  Austria  towards 
Poland. 

"  He  has  risen,  the  tyrant  —  Herod !  O  Lord  !  see 
the  whole  of  young  Poland  given  over  into  the  hands  of 
Herod !  what  do  I  see  ?  These  white  streaks  are  roads 
which  cross  one  another,  roads  which  are  so  long  that  they 
seem  without  end  !  Through  deserts,  through  drifts  of  snow 
they  all  lead  to  the  North.  .  .  .  See  this  multitude  of 
sleighs,  which  drive  away  like  clouds,  which  are  driven  by 
the  wind,  all  in  the  same  direction  !  O  heavens,  they  are 
our  children.  .  .  . 

"  I  see  the  whole  of  this  troop  of   tyrants  and  execu- 


THE    MARTYR    NATION  213 

tioners  hastening  to  seize  my  fettered  nation.  The  whole  of 
Europe  mocks  at  it :  To  judgment !  The  mob  drags  the 
innocent  to  judgment.  Beings  who  are  nothing  but  tongues, 
without  hearts  or  arms,  are  their  judges.  And  cries  rise  from 
all  sides  :  '  Gallus,  it  is  Gallus  who  shall  judge  this  nation  ! — 
Gallus  has  not  found  it  guilty,  he  washes  his  hands.  But  the 
kings  shout :  Sentence  it,  give  it  to  its  executioners,  the 
blood  be  upon  us  and  our  children.  Release  Barabbas. 
Crucify  the  Son  of  Mary,  crucify  him  !  He  has  scoffed  at 
Ciesar ! ' 

"  Gallus  has  delivered  up  my  nation  ;  it  is  already  bound  ; 
see,  they  exhibit  its  innocent  face,  soiled  with  blood  as  it  is, 
with  a  crown  of  thorns  in  derision  about  the  forehead.  And 
the  people  hurry  and  Gallus  shrieks :  '  See,  this  is  the  free, 
independent  nation.' 

"  O  Lord,  already  I  see  the  cross.  How  long,  how  long 
time  yet  shall  my  nation  endure  it  ?  Lord,  have  pity  on  thy 
servant,  give  him  strength  that  he  may  not  fall  down  and 
expire  on  the  way.  His  cross  has  arms  so  long  that  they 
stretch  out  over  the  whole  of  Europe  ;  it  is  made  of  three 
nations  which  are  as  dried  up  as  three  withered  trees. 

''  They  drag  my  nation  away,  there  it  is,  there  on  the 
throne  of  sacrifice.  The  crucified  one  says  :  *  I  thirst,'  and 
Ragusa  offers  him  vinegar,  and  Boms  refreshes  him  with  gall, 
and  his  mother.  Freedom,  who  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  cross, 
lifts  her  head  and  weeps.  .  .  .  And  see,  the  Muscovite 
soldier  runs  up  and  thrusts  his  spear  into  his  side." 

This  is  the  picture  which  impresses  itself  most  deeply  on 
the  memory,  when  one  has  studied  the  Polish  poetry  of 
the  first  half  of  the  century  ;  the  pale  profile  of  a  martyred 
nation  which  consoles  itself  that  its  suffering  is  its  honour, 
and  that  it  suffers  for  the  common  cause  of  nations. 

But  the  value  of  this  romantic  literature  is  not  limited 
to  its  significance  for  the  people  of  Poland.  Even  if 
European  ignorance  of  the  language  in  which  it  is  written 
has  made  it  impossible  for  it  to  have  a  wide  influence,  it 
yet  has  influenced  the  minds  of  other  literatures  (as 
Mickiewicz  influenced  Pushkin,  and  as  his  Book  of  the 
Polish    Pilgrims   was    copied  by    Lamennais    in    77?^    Word 


2  14  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

of  a  Believer) ;  even  now  surprises  and  charms  the  foreigner 
by  the  intensity  of  its  emotional  life,  by  its  love  for  the  ideal, 
and,  when  it  attains  its  highest  level,  by  its  vigorous  pictures 
of  nature  in  Poland,  of  the  steppes  of  the  Ukraine,  of  the 
forests  of  Lithuania,  and  of  the  human  life  in  recent  and 
distant  times,  for  which  these  surroundings  form  the  natural 
and  indispensable  background. 

This  group  of  poems  showed  to  foreign  countries  the 
presence  of  a  sum  of  life,  whose  strength  people  had  begun 
to  doubt,  and  which  they  did  not  know  how  to  value.  We 
must  always,  in  the  first  instance,  demonstrate  that  we  are 
alive  ;  for,  as  Schiller  says,  the  living  are  right.  In  the 
next  place,  we  must  know  how  to  show  to  friends  and 
enemies  that  we  are  in  no  respect  behind  them,  that  we 
dare  to  measure  ourselves  against  them,  and  that  we  have 
other  rights  besides  the  mere  right  to  live,  namely,  the  rights 
that  pertain  to  culture  and  to  intellectual  superiority. 

In  both  these  respects  the  romantic  poets  of  Poland 
have  demonstrated  what  it  was  necessary  for  them  to  show 
to  Europe. 


"I 

BRODZINSKI,  THE  PIONEER  OF  ROMANTICISM  — 
POPULAR  BALLADS— THE  UKRAINIAN  POETS: 
MALCZEWSKI,  ZALESKI,  GOSZCYNSKI 

The  new  literature  had  a  forerunner,  who  bore  the  same 
relation  to  it  as  did  Herder  to  the  German  intellectual 
revolution,  and  Steffens  to  the  Danish  ;  Kasimir  Brodzinski,  a 
man  of  a  gentle,  genial  nature  (born  in  1791  in  a  country 
town  in  Galicia),  who  lost  his  mother  early,  and  who,  badly 
treated  by  his  step-mother,  took  refuge  in  the  servants'  hall 
and  in  the  cottages  of  the  peasants.  He  thus  became  early 
familiar  with  the  way  of  living  and  manner  of  thought 
of  the  common  people,  and  also  with  the  national  fairy 
tales,  traditions,  and  ballads.  In  other  respects  his  educa- 
tion was  German.  As  in  1809,  a  part  of  Galicia  had  been 
united  to  the  grand-duchy  of  Warsaw,  Brodzinski  entered 
the  Polish  army  and  took  part  in  Napoleon's  Russian  cam- 
paign of  1 81 2.  In  1 81 3  he  was  taken  prisoner  at  the 
battle  of  Leipsic  ;  some  years  later  he  settled  in  Warsaw, 
where  in  and  after  1822  he  delivered  admirable  lectures  at 
the  University  on  Polish  literature,  Shakespeare,  Goethe, 
and  Schiller,  &c.,  and  directed  the  attention  of  his  hearers 
to  the  value  and  quickening  influence  of  popular  national 
poetry.  Most  of  the  members  of  the  Ukrainian  school  of 
poets,  as  well  as  Mickiewicz,  received  an  impulse  from  him. 

He  had  a  rival,  who,  in  the  eyes  of  his  contemporaries, 
far  eclipsed  him,  Osinskt,  also  professor  of  the  history  of 
literature  in  the  University,  the  favourite  of  society,  a 
fanatical  champion  of  the  classical  taste,  a  blind  contemner 
of  the  rising  romantic  poetry,  and  a  brilliant  speaker. 
Brodzinski's  voice  was  not  strong,  and  his  appearance  was 
simple,  but  his  eloquence  was  genuine,  and  his  influence  on 
young  men  very  great. 


2i6  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Slightly  under  the  influence  of  Goethe's  Hermann  and 
Dorothea,  he  wrote  the  idyll,  Wieslaw,  a  quiet  love  story, 
enacted  among  the  peasants  of  Cracow,  which  is  read  to 
this  day.  With  proud  humility  he  called  himself  "  the 
modest  village  sexton,  whose  only  service  has  been  that 
he  awakened  literature  to  its  morning  devotions  before  day- 
break." 

As  a  teacher  he  prized  naturalness  above  everything, 
naturalness  in  manners,  in  style,  in  poetry  ;  he  turned  the 
minds  of  the  young  generation  from  classical  localities, 
"  the  regions  of  Arcadia,"  and  exhorted  its  poets  to  sing  of 
their  own  beautiful  land,  "  the  soil  on  which  thy  youth  was 
passed,  for  which  the  sons  of  Sarmatia  have  poured  out  their 
blood,  and  where  thou  shalt  sometime  lay  down  thy  white 
head,  while  the  firs  grow  green  over  thy  grave." 

As  an  aesthete  Brodzinski  cannot  be  called  a  scientific 
man  ;  he  was  less  and  more  ;  less,  in  so  far  as  he  lacked 
methodical  skill  ;  more,  because  what  is  called  science  in 
this  domain,  may  exist  without  originality,  without  judgment, 
without  the  least  perception  of  individuality,  while  genuine 
literary  production  in  its  billowy  life,  in  the  lot  and  part, 
which  the  personality,  its  mood  and  its  art  have  in  it,  ex- 
cludes direct  scientific  treatment.  In  him  arose  an  author 
who  belonged  at  once  to  life  and  to  the  world  of  books. 
He  stood  half-way  between  science  and  art,  and  above 
science  in  the  fields  where  mere  science  is  no  art. 

The  revolution  of  1831  tore  him  away  from  his  peaceful 
labours,  and  threw  him  into  a  vortex  of  national  fanaticism 
which  had  hitherto  been  foreign  to  his  being.  Like  so  many 
others,  even  of  the  greatest,  he  became  convinced  of  the 
Messianic  mission  of  his  fatherland  and  lost  himself  in 
prophecies.  In  an  essay  on  the  nationality  of  the  Poles 
he  wrote  this  sentence  :  "  The  Polish  natio/i  is  the  Coper- 
nicus of  the  moral  world  ;  it  has  discovered  the  law  of 
the  attraction  of  all  races  to  the  central  moral  point — the 
idea  of  humanity  ;  it  was  granted  to  this  nation  to  bring 
the  rights  of  the  throne  and  of  the  people  into  equili- 
brium on  scales  the  beam  of  which  stood  fast  in  Heaven 
itself." 


SLAV  BALLAD  POETRY         217 

So  strongly  did  the  recent  and  apparently  final  defeat  of 
Poland  affect  the  clearest  and  purest  intelligences. 

Popular  ballads  gave  the  first  inspiration  to  this  brood 
of  poets  ;  for  this  was  the  form  most  remote  from  the 
classical.  All  the  Slav  nations  and  the  Lithuanians,  a  race 
allied  to  the  Poles,  possessed  national  ballads  in  great  abund- 
ance but  of  very  unequal  merit.  The  best  is  certainly  the 
Lithuanian  ballad  {Datno),  in  which  a  race  far  different  from 
the  Slavs  has  incorporated  everything  poetical  which  it  had 
at  heart.  Servia's  rich,  popular  poetry,  now  known  over  the 
whole  of  Europe  by  translations  and  adaptations,  had  an 
influence  on  Runeberg  in  the  North.  That  of  Poland  is  less 
plastic,  softer  and  milder,  sometimes  also  lighter  and  gayer. 
Finally,  the  poetry  of  the  steppes  and  the  boldness  and 
melancholy  of  its  inhabitants  live  in  the  South  Russian  ballad, 
the  Duma  of  the  Cossacks. 

While  yet  a  child,  Mickiewicz  learnt  the  Polish  popular 
ballads  from  an  old  servant.  They  are  known  in  Denmark 
only  by  two  or  three  paraphrases  in  Hauch's  Polish  Family. 
Among  these  is  a  long  one  which  begins : — 

"  Why,  O  birch  tree,  dost  thou  stand  so  solitary  ? 
On  the  heath  in  the  winter  and  wind  ?  " 

This  little  song  is  a  paraphrase,  in  Shakespearean  style,  of 
an  ancient  unrhymed  popular  ballad  of  the  fifteenth  or  six- 
teenth century. 

"  Birch  tree,  birch  tree  !  Beautiful  birch  tree  !  why  art 
thou  so  sad  ?  Does  the  old  white  frost  make  thy  sap 
stiffen,  or  is  it  the  wicked  wind  which  blows  upon  thee  ?  Or 
is  it  the  brook  which  washes  the  earth  from  thy  tender  roots  ? 

" '  Sister  Olga,'  says  the  birch,  '  the  old  white  frost,  and 
the  wind  do  not  hurt  me,  neither  does  the  brook. 

"  *  But  from  far,  far  distant  lands  came  the  Tartars,  and 
they  broke  my  boughs  and  they  kindled  great  fires  and  trod 
down  the  grass,  the  beautiful  green  grass,  round  about  me. 
And  where  they  built  the  fire,  there  the  grass  will  never 
grow  any  more.  And  where  they  rode  through  the  crops 
they  look  like  the  autumn  stubble. 

"  '  And  where  their  horses  waded  through  the  brooks,  no 


2i8  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

beast  will  drink,  and  where  their  arrows  strike,  the  wound 
heals  only  in  the  grave.' " 

Even  before  the  greatest  poet  of  Poland  was  inspired  by 
the  Polish  national  ballads,  the  group  of  poets,  which  was 
directly  influenced  by  Brodzinski,  pointed  out  the  way  to 
Mickiewicz,  studied  the  Cossack  Duma,  and  lost  them- 
selves in  the  broad  horizons  of  the  steppes.  This  group 
formed  the  so-called  Polish  Ukrainian  school  of  poetry, 
whose  three  greatest  names  are  Malczewski,  Zaleski,  and 
Goszczynski. 

Anton  Malczewski,  born  in  1793  in  Wolhynia,  died  when 
only  thirty-three  years  old,  unappreciated,  nay,  unknown. 
He  is  the  author  of  the  most  popular  poem  in  Polish 
literature,  and  perhaps  the  one  most  frequently  republished 
and  illustrated,  Marja,  an  Ukrainian  Tale,  in  style  recalling 
Byron's  early  shorter  epics.  Malczewski  was  the  son  of  a 
Polish  general,  received  the  French  culture  of  the  fashion- 
able world,  entered  the  army  under  Napoleon,  was  severely 
wounded,  resigned  his  position  as  an  officer,  travelled  in 
foreign  countries  from  1816  to  1821,  took  part  in  the 
amusements  and  pleasures  of  the  society  of  the  upper  classes 
till  he  lost  his  fortune  and  health,  when  he  returned  to 
Wolhynia,  settled  in  the  country,  and  was  drawn  into  an 
intrigue  with  his  cousin,  the  invalid  wife  of  a  neighbouring 
landed  proprietor,  whom  he  restored  to  health  by  a  magnetic 
cure.  She  left  her  husband,  and  the  two  lived  together  for 
some  years  in  Warsaw,  where  Malczewski,  who  was  now 
very  poor,  supported  himself  by  a  private  appointment, 
until  the  uneasiness  and  importunity  of  his  companion — she 
could  not  endure  him  to  be  away  from  home — compelled 
him  to  resign  his  position.  Although  very  neurotic  himself 
and  harassed  by  the  exactions  of  an  excessively  neurotic 
woman,  he  forced  himself  to  the  culminating  work  of  his 
life.  Marja  appeared  in  1825,  was  unfavourably  judged  by 
stupid  critics,  attracted  no  attention,  and  did  not  sell. 
Malczewski  died  under  the  impression  of  this  failure,  and 
when  his  death  was  announced  in  the  newspapers  of  the 
classicists,  Osinski  gave  him  these  parting  words  :  "  He  is 
said  to  have  tried  his  hand  at  Polish  poetry." 


BYRON    AND    MALCZEWSKI  219 

The  important  event  in  Malczewski's  literary  life  was  that 
he  became  personally  acquainted  with  Byron  in  Venice. 
Byron  was  then  thirty  years  old,  Malczewski  twenty-four, 
both  very  fine-looking  men.  They  belonged  to  the  same 
rank  in  society,  were  both  melancholy  and  sensual,  but  the 
former  had  a  martial,  the  latter  a  sensitive  and  delicate  nature. 
It  was  natural  that  Malczewski  should  fall  under  the  influence 
of  the  great  Englishman  ;  in  return  he  (it  is  said)  gave 
Byron  the  idea  of  his  poem  Mazeppa. 

The  model  of  the  hero  of  Marja  was  Felix  Potocki, 
who  appears  frequently  in  Polish  literature,  one  of  the 
"  fated  chieftains  "  of  the  confederation  of  Targowice  \  he  is 
here  idealised  into  a  handsome  and  blameless  knight  under 
the  name  of  Waclaw.  As  he  had  married  a  young  lady  of 
the  petty  nobility  against  his  father's  will,  the  cruel  and 
artful  father,  after  a  pretended  reconciliation,  sent  him  and 
his  father-in-law  away  on  an  expedition  against  Crimean 
brigands,  and  then  caused  his  bride  to  be  drowned  by 
masked  men  in  the  moat  of  the  castle. 

By  placing  this  event  in  the  times  of  the  Tartar  con- 
tests, the  poet  has  enabled  himself  to  treat  it  in  such  a  way 
as  to  give  himself  the  opportunity  of  playing  on  all  the 
strings,  and  using  all  the  powers  of  which  he  was  master. 
He  described  the  freedom,  wildness,  and  silence  of  the  steppes 
of  Ukraine,  when  he  sang  of  the  solitary  Cossack  who  rode 
over  the  steppes  to  carry  the  Wojewode's  false  message  of 
reconciliation  ;  dwelt  lyrically  on  the  character  of  the  Cossack, 
freeborn,  yet  so  faithful  to  his  lord ;  gave  with  force  and 
precision  the  picture  of  the  sortie  of  the  Polish  knightly 
band,  with  the  ring  of  the  trumpets  and  the  clatter  of  the 
horses'  hoofs  under  the  Gothic  portals ;  and  painted  in 
contrast  the  portrait  of  the  solitary  Marja,  the  ideal  of  the 
gentle  devoted  Polish  woman,  the  consolation  and  pride 
of  her  father,  who,  when  near  him,  lives  for  him,  but  who 
ever  and  always  is  thinking  of  her  beloved,  her  husband, 
consumed  by  a  longing  for  him,  "the  world  of  her  soul," 
whom,  in  the  poem,  she  only  sees  for  a  few  hours  again 
before  she  bids  him  an  eternal  farewell. 

The  conversations   between   the   lovers   are  reproduced 


220  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

with  sentimental  enthusiasm,  the  battle  between  the  Poles 
and  the  Tartars  is  depicted  with  great  impetuosity ;  the 
fundamental  traits  of  the  two  different  races  of  men  stand 
out  sharply,  and  we  are  sensible  of  the  significance  of  the 
conflict  between  civilisation  and  barbarism  in  those  times, 
when  the  campaigns  of  the  Poles  were  directed  against 
perpetrators  of  violence  of  the  most  cruel  kind,  and  their 
self-defence  became  the  bulwark  of  Europe.  And  in  the 
next  place  the  poet  has  drawn  a  skilful  contrast  between 
the  uproar  of  the  masked  men  at  home,  and  the  fury  of  the 
battle-field ;  the  former  concerned  with  the  murder  of  a 
defenceless  woman,  and  the  latter  taking  place  to  protect 
that  home  which  was  being  destroyed  at  the  same 
moment. 

The  murder  of  the  young  woman  is  not  described  at 
all ;  we  see  that  the  author  shrank  from  it.  Hardly  anything 
is  made  of  Waclaw's  meeting  with  the  corpse,  although  his 
longing  for  the  living  woman  on  the  ride  home  is  very 
strongly  emphasised.  Where  his  imaginative  power  failed 
him,  the  poet  understood  how  to  conceal  the  want  by 
setting  the  reader's  fancy  in  action,  while  he  opens  up 
possibilities,  suggests  a  great  deal,  leaves  a  great  deal 
undetermined. 

Malczewski,  in  his  treatment  of  this  theme  of  his  native 
country,  was  influenced,  as  we  cannot  fail  to  note,  by  re- 
miniscences of  his  travels.  When  he  opens  the  second  canto 
(like  the  first)  with  a  description  of  the  steppes,  he  draws 
a  parallel  between  their  natural  characteristics  and  those  of 
the  beauties  of  nature  in  Italy,  and  declares  that  the 
depressed  man  who  would  be  cured  of  his  melancholy, 
must  hie  to  the  south,  since  the  melancholy  uniformity 
of  the  steppes  only  lays  bare  the  wounds  of  the  heart. 
When  the  masked  men  are  about  to  enter  into  the  castle 
with  a  song,  the  author  is  also  full  of  Italian  reminiscences. 
The  carnival  at  Venice  was  before  his  eyes  with  its  gaiety, 
as  a  contrast  to  this  horrible  mummery,  and  he  has  mingled 
the  tones  of  a  dirge  with  the  gay  song  of  the  masqueraders, 
much  as  Victor  Hugo  would  have  done. 

Partly  in  memory  of  his  association  with  Byron  and  his 


THE    POET    ZALESKI  221 

influence,  partly  as  an  expression  of  something  Polish  and 
personal,  Malczewski  introduces  a  mysterious  page,  who  is 
present  when  the  preparations  are  made  for  the  murder,  and 
who  later  meets  Waclaw,  and  jumps  upon  his  horse  behind 
him,  when  he  rides  away  for  revenge.  Of  him  the  poet 
sings  :  "  Who  was  he,  the  young  man  with  the  tearful  look  ? 
Angel  or  devil  ?  Was  it  the  spirit  of  his  misfortune  ?  Will 
he  add  to  the  pangs  of  Waclaw  ?  Share  his  sorrow  ?  I 
know  not !  He  embraces  him  and  they  disappear  at  a 
gallop."  Elsewhere  this  young  page  says  of  himself :  "  I  am 
a  foreigner  in  my  native  land,  my  fate  has  left  black  scars 
on  my  breast.  That  I,  so  young,  was  compelled  to  eat  the 
poisoned  bread  of  the  world,  it  is  that  which  has  burdened 
my  heart  and  set  my  tears  flowing.  .  .  .  When  I  sing  a 
song,  the  melody  is  sad."  It  is  plain  that  in  a  naive  and 
awkward  manner  the  author  here  introduced  his  own  per- 
sonality into  the  poem,  which  was  to  survive  him,  and  make 
him  famous  after  his  death. 

To  the  Ukrainian  group  of  poets  in  addition  to  a  series 
of  minor  intellects  (Padura,  who  became  a  wandering  ballad 
singer,  and  Grabowski,  who  wrote  Ukrainian  melodies), 
belong  the  two  Zaleski  and  Goszczynski,  both  greatly 
influenced  by  Brodzinski's  lectures,  with  their  references  to 
the  nature  of  their  own  country. 

Bohdan  Zaleski  (born  in  1802),  who,  after  a  silence  of 
more  than  a  generation,  died  two  or  three  years  ago  in 
Paris,  is  not,  like  Malczewski,  the  poet  of  the  Polish  nobility, 
but  of  the  Cossacks.  Again  and  again  he  has  praised,  in 
verse,  his  beloved  steppes,  his  Dnieperland,  and  in  fact  he 
has  sung  of  nothing  else.  He  himself  says  that  for  him 
the  carol  of  the  birds,  the  ditties  of  the  young  girls,  and  the 
songs  of  the  men  in  praise  of  the  Attaman,  flowed  together 
into  a  single  living  song,  which  he  drank  in  a  full  draught. 
Mildly  and  elegiacally  he  sings  the  longing  for  the  steppes, 
the  yearning  for  the  scenery  of  the  Ukraine,  the  dangerous 
life  and  the  solitary  death  that  are  the  lot  of  the  Cossack. 
Placable  and  gentle,  he  passes  over  the  time  when  Poland 
harassed  and  oppressed  the  Cossacks,  who  rose  in  continual 
conflicts  against  his  native  land,  and  goes  back  to  the  peace- 


222  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

ful  times  of  the  sixteenth  century,  which  again  he  purges  of 
everything  grotesque  and  brutal.  His  best  known  poem, 
The  Holy  Family,  a  somewhat  bloodless  Christian  idyll  (which 
treats  of  the  time  after  the  Passover  in  Jerusalem,  when 
Christ  was  a  child,  describes  the  uneasiness  of  the  parents 
until  He  was  found  teaching  in  the  temple,  and  paints  with 
delicate  colours  the  tone  within  and  without  this  temple),  is 
mainly  valuable  for  the  picture  of  the  pilgrims'  journey  to 
and  from  Jerusalem  in  the  fragrant  spring,  the  bivouacs 
under  the  open  heavens,  with  the  frugal  supper  obtained 
from  the  country  village,  and  the  shouts  of  the  children 
around  the  camp-fire — a  picture  which  is  an  exact  repro- 
duction of  what  he  had  seen  on  the  steppes  of  his  native 
land,  when  the  South  Russian  pilgrims  went  on  pilgrimages 
to  their  holy  places  at  Easter — only  that  there  is  not  the 
boldness  in  the  description  which  the  subject  demands,  but 
the  bland  mildness  of  miniature-painting. 

After  the  revolt  of  1831  was  ended,  Zaleski  emigrated, 
and  soon  after,  like  other  greater  poets,  became  in  Paris  a 
votary  of  Towianski's  fanaticism.  Later,  he  turned  back 
from  mysticism  to  orthodox  Roman  Catholicism,  and  wrote 
a  long,  shallow  poem,  in  the  ascetic  spirit. 

Severin  Goszczynski  (born  in  1803,  died  in  1876)  came 
from  a  village  in  the  department  of  Kief,  was  educated  as  a 
comrade  of  Padura,  Crabowski,  and  Zaleski,  as  a  young  man 
was  mixed  up  in  a  conspiracy,  took  part  in  the  revolt  in 
1830,  and  afterwards  emigrated  to  Paris,  but  later  came 
back  to  Austrian  Poland. 

His  chief  work,  The  Castle  in  Kanto'w  (1828),  which 
treats  of  a  sanguinary  revolt  of  the  peasants  of  the  last  half 
of  the  eighteenth  century,  is  a  poem  rich  in  romantic 
horrors,  represented  with  an  undaunted  eye  and  a  firm 
hand.  Goszczynski  was  a  gloomy,  superstitious,  martial 
being,  with  great  dramatic  gifts,  who  dwells  by  preference  on 
outbursts  of  violent  passion,  scenes  of  murder,  madness,  and 
fire.  While  Byron's  spleen  and  melancholy  gave  Malczewski 
courage  to  give  expression  to  cognate  traits,  it  was  Byron's 
taste  for  wildness  and  violence  which  appealed  to  Goszczynski. 
His  soul  vibrated  at  the  recollection  of  the  war  of  exter- 


GOSZCZYNSKI  223 

mination  waged  against  each  other  by  the  PoHsh  nobiUty 
and  the  Cossacks  ;  he  dwells  on  the  hot  desire  and  cold 
cruelty  of  the  men,  and  the  ungovernable  love  of  the 
women,  leading  them  to  madness  or  murder  in  order  to 
free  themselves,  and  he  loses  himself,  without  trembling,  in 
visions  of  the  massacres  of  that  time,  of  punishments  such  as 
impalement,  and  the  red  glare  of  burning  castles. 


IV 

MICKIEWICZ  AND  GOETHE  — PARIS  AND  THE  ODE 
TO  YOUTH— YOUTH  OF  MICKIEWICZ— MICKIE- 
WICZ AND  PUSHKIN 

One  day  in  August  1829,  two  young  Poles  arrived  at 
Weimar,  in  order,  if  possible,  to  make  the  acquaintance  of 
the  great  Goethe.  They  had  letters  of  introduction  to  his 
daughter-in-law.  Madam  Ottilie,  whose  maiden  name  was 
Pogwisch,  and  to  him,  also,  from  a  Polish  artist  of  high 
standing,  the  court  pianist.  Madam  Szymanowska,  of  St. 
Petersburg. 

They  were  well  received,  and  were  remarkably  popular, 
not  only  in  Goethe's  house,  but  also  in  all  the  best  society 
of  Weimar,  and  they  well  deserved  it,  for  they  belonged  to 
those  persons  who  amply  repay  the  hospitality  shown  to 
them.  They  were  Adam  Mickiewicz,  at  that  time  thirty 
years  of  age,  and  his  twenty-six-year-old  friend,  Odyniec, 
the  most  enthusiastic  and  amiable  Patroclus  any  Achilles 
could  desire. 

Odyniec's  natural  and  graceful  letters  from  Weimar  show 
us,  as  in  a  mirror,  what  the  widely  celebrated  little  city  was 
in  the  days  when  Goethe  had  reached  his  eightieth  year,  and, 
in  addition,  describe  with  a  delicate  gift  of  observation,  even 
if  not  without  partiality,  the  contrast  between  the  two 
greatest  poets  of  Germany  and  Poland,  when  one  was  an 
old  man,  and  the  other  in  all  the  vigour  of  his  youth. 

We  hear  the  old  and  the  young  master  talk,  and  their 
utterances  deal  with  the  life  of  the  moment.  The  descrip- 
tion of  the  first  visit  to  Goethe  is  delightful,  when  they  were 
admitted,  after  having  waited  for  a  while,  with  frightful 
beatings  of  the  heart.  We  actually  hear  the  accents  of 
Goethe's  enthusiastic  exclamation  concerning  Madam  Szy- 
manowska:  "  Elle  est  charmante;  comme  elle  est  belle  et 


MICKIEWICZ    AT    WEIMAR  225 

gracieuse  ;  comme  elle  est  charmante  !  "  And  later,  the  little 
party  at  the  house  of  Madam  Ottilie,  when  young  Odyniec  was 
so  fascinated  by  the  charming  Madam  Vogel.  Goethe  asks  him 
the  good-natured  question  :  "  Nun,  wie  gefallen  denn  Ihnen 
unsere  Damen  ?  "  and  the  young  Pole,  not  yet  entirely  perfect 
in  the  German  language,  answers,  smiling  :  "  Paradiesischen 
Vogel,  Excellenz,"  meaning  to  say,  "  Paradiesvogel."  ^ 

One  day  when  Odyniec  had  taken  breakfast  with  the 
Vogels,  and  remained  so  long  that  he  missed  the  dinner- 
hour  in  the  hotel,  on  his  return  he  found  Adam  at  the  table 
from  which  the  cloth  had  been  removed,  with  two  French 
gentlemen.  They  wanted  him  to  help  them  to  the  name  of 
Poland's  greatest  poet.  But  he  constantly  mentioned  names 
which  they  rejected  as  wrong.  One  of  them  said  :  "  Non, 
Non  !  ce  n'est  pas  le  nom  !  Mik  .  .  .  Mis  .  .  .  Mik  .  .  . 
Eh  !  qui  est  done  votre  grand  po^te  ?  "  Mickiewicz  looked 
significantly  at  Odyniec  and  nodded  his  head  gently,  then 
proposed  the  name  of  Krasinski,  and,  during  the  indig- 
nation of  the  Frenchmen  at  the  ignorance  of  the  Poles  of 
their  own  literature,  Adam  rose  and  went  to  his  room. 
The  gentlemen,  the  elder  of  whom  was  the  celebrated 
sculptor,  David  d' Angers,  who  had  come  to  Weimar  to 
make  a  bust  of  Goethe,  now  turned  to  Odyniec,  asking  if  he 
did  not  know  the  name  of  Poland's  greatest  poet.  "  Probably 
you  mean  Adam  Mickiewicz,"  he  replied.  When  David 
broke  out :  *'  Exactly,  exactly,  it  is  of  him  that  I  wished  to 
speak  ; "  he  received  the  answer  :  "  It  is  he  who  just  went 
out  of  the  door." — "  Oh,  how  droll,  but  it  is  so.  I  have  his 
picture  in  a  Spanish  cloak." 

It  was  the  well-known  portrait  of  Mickiewicz,  leaning 
against  the  rock  Ajudagh. 

David  immediately  seeks  Mickiewicz  in  his  room,  and 
finds  this  changeable  being,  who  was  just  now  gloomy  and 
indifferent,  genial  and  gay.  During  the  lively  conversa- 
tion— according  to  the  enthusiastic  description  of  Odyniec — 
Adam  suddenly  grows  to  a  giant  and  shoots  forth  sparks 
like  a   Vulcan,  so   that  David,   wholly  carried   away,   begs 

^  "  Well,  what  do  you  think  of  our  ladies  ?  "     "  Paradisaical  birds,  your  Excellence  " 
(for  Birds  of  Paradise).    The  play  on  the  name  Vogel  (bird)  is  lost  in  translation.— Tr. 

P 


226  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

permission  to  execute  his  portrait  as  a  medallion.  On  a 
succeeding  day  he  persuades  the  poet  to  read  aloud  to  him 
something  of  his  own  in  a  French  prose  translation. 
Mickiewicz  reads  the  poem,  which  is  certainly  the  best  of 
his  short  poems,  Farts.  The  strongest  part  of  it  is  as 
follows : — 

<'  How  happy  is  the  Arab  when  he  lets  his  horse  leap 
out  into  the  desert  from  a  block  of  stone  !  The  horse's  feet 
sink  into  the  sand  with  a  dull  sound  as  when  the  glowing, 
red-hot  steel  is  plunged  into  the  water.  So  he  swims  away 
in  the  golden  sea  of  sand,  and  parts  the  dry  waves  with  his 
breast. 

"  Faster,  even  faster !  Already  his  hoofs  hardly  touch 
the  plain  of  sand.  Farther,  farther  !  He  has  already  vanished 
in  a  cloud  of  dust. 

"  He  is  black,  my  steed,  like  a  thunder-cloud.  A  star 
shines  on  his  forehead.  He  spreads  his  withers  like  an 
ostrich  wing  before  the  wind,  and  his  white  hoofs  flash 
lightning. 

"  Fly,  fly,  my  brave  horse  with  the  white  hoofs !  You 
forests,  you  mountains,  place,  place  ! 

"  The  cliffs,  the  watchmen  of  the  boundaries  of  the 
desert,  turn  their  dark  faces  toward  me,  repeat  the  echo 
of  my  gallop,  and  seem  to  threaten  me.  It  is  as  if  they 
shouted.  Whither  does  this  madman  go  ?  There  where  he 
is  hastening  there  are  neither  any  palms  with  their  green 
crowns,  nor  any  tent  with  its  white  breast  for  shelter  against 
the  arrows  of  the  sun.  There  sleep  only  the  mountains, 
there  only  the  stars  pursue  their  course. 

"  I  hasten,  hasten.  When  I  turn  my  head,  I  see  the 
shamefaced  cliffs  flying  and  hiding  one  behind  the  other. 

"  But  a  vulture  has  heard  their  threats.  It  is  stupid 
enough  to  believe  that  it  can  make  me  its  prey  here  in  the 
desert,  and  it  swings  down  through  the  air  towards  me. 
Three  times  it  sighs  around  my  head  and  encompasses  me 
as  with  a  black  crown. 

"  '  I  scent,'  it  croaks,  *  the  smell  of  death.  O  mad  knight ! 
O  mad  horse  1  Does  the  knight  seek  a  path  here  ?  Here 
lies  only  death,  here  only  vultures  fly/ 


MICKIEWICZ'S    "PARIS"  227 

"  He  shrieked  and  threatened  me  with  his  shining  claws. 
Three  times  we  measured  each  other  with  our  eyes.  Which 
of  us  quailed  first  ?  The  vulture.  I  hasten,  I  hasten,  and 
when  I  turn  my  head,  I  see  the  vulture  far,  far  away  like  a 
black  spot  on  the  heavens,  at  first  as  large  as  a  sparrow, 
then  as  a  butterfly,  then  as  a  gnat,  and  then  it  vanishes  in 
the  blue  of  the  heavens. 

"  Fly,  fly,  my  brave  horse  with  the  white  hoofs  !  Ye  cliffs, 
ye  vultures,  place,  place. 

"  Then  I  let  my  eyes  run  round  the  circle  of  sight  as  if  I 
were  the  sun  himself  and  I  saw  no  one  all  around  me.  Here 
sleeping  nature  has  never  been  wakened  by  man.  Here  the 
elements  rest  peacefully,  just  as  beasts  on  a  newly  discovered 
island  do  not  fear  the  sight  of  man. 

"  But  Allah !  I  am  not  the  first,  not  the  only  one 
here.  Are  they  travellers  or  robbers,  who  are  lying  in 
wait?  ,How  white  they  are,  the  horsemen!  And  their 
horses  are  also  hideously  white.  I  fly  towards  them  ;  they 
do  not  move.  I  shout,  they  answer  not.  Allah !  It  is 
death.  A  caravan  long  since  buried  in  the  sand,  from  which 
the  storm  has  now  blown  the  sand  away  !  On  the  bony  sides 
of  the  camels  sit  skeletons  of  Arabian  men  !  Through  the 
holes  where  eyes  once  sat,  the  sand  flows  out  and  seems  to 
mumble  a  threat :  The  madman  !  why  does  he  ride  hither  ? 
He  will  soon  meet  the  hurricane. 

"  I  hasten,  I  fly —     O  death,  hurricanes  !  place,  place. 

"  But  the  hurricane  comes,  the  most  fearful  of  Africa's 
disturbers  of  peace,  which  move  solitary  over  the  sea  of 
sand  ;  it  seems  to  me  to  be  far  away  ;  it  is  surprised,  it  stops  ; 
it  whirls  around  me  as  if  saying  to  itself :  What  younger 
brother  of  mine  among  the  winds  is  this,  which,  so  feeble 
in  growth  and  so  slow  in  flight,  ventures  into  my  old  kingdom 
of  the  deserts  ?  It  roars  and  comes  towards  me  like  a 
pyramid  in  motion.  But  when  it  sees  that  I  am  only  a 
man  and  do  not  step  aside,  it  stamps,  raging,  on  the  ground 
and  leaps  over  half  of  Arabia.  It  seizes  me  as  a  kite  does 
a  sparrow  ;  it  strikes  me  with  its  whirling  wings,  burns  me 
with  its  flaming  breath,  hurls  me  up  into  the  air  and  throws 
me  down  on  the  earth.     I  jump  up   and  fight   against  it, 


228  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

tear  apart  the  gigantic  knots  of  its  whirls.  I  bite  it ;  crush 
with  my  teeth  whatever  I  can  get  hold  of  in  its  body  of 
sand.  It  would  like  to  slip  out  of  my  arms,  but  it  cannot 
tear  itself  loose  and  it  grows  weak.  Its  head  falls  back, 
dissolved  in  a  shower  of  dust,  and  its  immense  corpse 
stretches  itself  out  at  my  feet  like  the  rampart  before  a 
city. 

"  Then  I  took  breath,  lifted  up  my  eyes  and  looked 
proudly  on  the  stars,  and  all  the  stars  looked  steadily  down 
on  me  with  their  eyes  of  gold  ;  for  they  did  not  see  any- 
thing but  me  in  the  desert.  Oh  how  sweet  it  is  to  breathe 
here,  to  breathe  in  and  out,  in  full  draught  of  a  full  heart ! 
I  breathe  freely,  fully,  deeply.  All  the  air  of  Arabia  is 
hardly  enough  air  for  my  lungs.  Oh  how  sweet  it  is  to 
look  around  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  ;  my  eyes  are 
enlarged,  strengthened  ;  their  gaze  already  pierces  through 
the  circle  of  vision.  Oh  how  sweet  it  is  to  stretch  one's 
arms  out  freely,  peacefully,  to  their  full  length  !  I  feel  as 
if  I  could  embrace  the  whole  world  from  East  to  West. 
My  thoughts  fly  like  an  arrow,  higher,  higher,  higher  up 
yet  into  the  abyss  of  the  heavens.  And  as  the  bee  entombs 
his  life  with  the  sting  with  which  it  pierces,  so  I  hurl  and 
pierce  with  my  thought  my  whole  soul  into  the  vault  of 
heaven." 

David  gave  a  bound  in  the  chair  on  which  he  was 
sitting  modelling  his  medallion  with  a  bit  of  wood  which  he 
had  splintered  from  a  stick  which  lay  behind  the  stove. 
"  How  did  you  hit  on  that  ?  "  he  asked. 

*'  I  like  that,"  answered  Mickiewicz  ;  "  there  you  see 
the  artist  who  wants  to  know  the  conditions  under  which 
the  work  came  into  existence,  and  had  to  come."  And 
he  related  that  while  still  very  young  he  had  read  some 
Oriental  poems  in  a  French  translation — and  how  one 
day  in  St.  Petersburg,  as  he  was  leaving  a  gay  dinner  party 
and  saw  that  a  storm  was  coming  up,  he  had  taken  a 
droshky  and  said  to  the  driver  that  he  must  hurry.  And 
the  driver  let  the  horse  go  as  fast  as  the  reins  and 
harness  would  allow,  and  this  chasing  and  rattling,  the 
soughing    of    the    blast,    the    rolling    of    the    thunder,  and 


THE    "ODE    TO    YOUTH"  229 

more  than  all  this,  his  delight  in  the  rapid  movement, 
awakened  the  melody  of  Faris  in  his  mind,  and  the  poem 
was  completed  the  same  night. 

This  poem  is  admirable  not  only  for  its  grand  fan- 
tasy but  for  its  vigorous  youthful  force.  There  is  in  it  a 
pride,  a  self-assurance,  which  the  poet's  first  readers  needed ; 
it  encouraged  them  not  to  succumb.  There  is  no  Goethe- 
like self-limitation  here,  none  of  Schiller's  sense  of  the  dis- 
tance between  the  ideal  and  the  reality.  It  is  the  apotheosis 
of  endless  temerity. 

And  it  is  indeed  quite  in  the  same  spirit  as  the  cele- 
brated Ode  to  Youth,  which  Mickiewicz  completed  soon  after. 
This  ode  has  been  called  his  first  political  poem,  although 
in  itself  it  is  entirely  unpolitical,  but,  without  any  intention 
on  the  part  of  the  author,  it  became  the  Marseillaise  of  the 
Polish  youth  : — 

"  He  who  as  a  boy  has  already  killed  serpents  will 
as  a  youth  be  able  to  strangle  centaurs,  wrest  from  hell 
its  spoil,  and  win  laurels  in  heaven.  Mount  so  high  that 
no  eye  can  follow.  Break  and  demolish  what  intellect 
alone  does  not  break.  Youth  !  thy  flight  is  the  flight  of 
the  eagle  —  and  thy  arm  leads  the  lightning.  Let  us 
place  ourselves  arm  in  arm,  shoulder  to  shoulder,  and 
surround  the  world  with  a  chain,  collect  our  thoughts  to 
a  single  flame  and  all  our  souls  to  a  single  hearthstone  ! 
And  thus,  old  world  !  out  of  thy  tracks  !  we  will  thrust  thee, 
old  earth,  out  into  new  paths  and  peel  off  thy  decayed  shell, 
that  the  spring  of  thy  youth  may  blossom  on  thee  ! " 

Reading  this  lyric,  we  understand  Odyniec's  joyful  out- 
burst about  his  friend,  when  he  says  that  in  the  conver- 
sations with  Goethe,  Adam's  words  were  glowing  metal, 
Goethe's  bright,  cold  coins.  But  we  also  understand  the 
amazement  of  the  conventionally  educated  young  Pole  at 
Goethe's  whole  manner  of  thinking  and  feeling.  It  is 
specially  when  the  conversation  in  Goethe's  house  turns 
on  the  natural  sciences  that  both  the  Poles  have  occasion 
to  wonder  at  Goethe's  purely  pagan  contemplation,  while 
they  themselves  are  all  fire  and  flame,  devotion  and  faith. 
Goethe  at  times  expresses  one  simple  and  weighty  thought 


230  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

after  the  other.  Odyniec  quotes  some  expressions,  taken 
directly  from  the  lips  of  the  old  man  :  "  La  nature  a  Vattrait 
et  la  chartne  de  tinfini. — We  must  be  consistent  in  our  in- 
vestigation, and  Nature  deceives  no  one. — Nature's  treasures 
are  enchanted  ;  no  spade,  but  a  word  discloses  them  to  the 
eye. — I  have  often  been  at  war  with  Nature,  but  I  have 
always  ended  by  asking  her  to  forgive  me."  And  many 
other  similar  sentences.  He  writes  home  to  a  friend  in 
Poland  thus  :  "If  you  are  already  astonished  that  here 
the  talk  is  only  of  Nature,  what  will  you  say  if  I  tell  you  that 
this  term  recurred  at  least  two  hundred  times  and  that  the 
word  'God'  was  not  mentioned  once?  As  if  Nature  were 
one  and  all.  Alpha  and  Omega,  its  own  creator  and  deity  ! 
This  is,  then,  the  Pantheism,  which  I  have  hitherto,  God 
be  praised !  only  known  by  report,  and  which  I  believed 
was  only  proclaimed  by  people  who  spoke  against  their 
own  better  convictions,  and  did  not  understand  what  they 
themselves  said.  But  to-day  it  was  otherwise.  Everything 
that  Goethe  said,  and  even  everything  which  he  did  not 
say  plainly,  was  clear.  And  this  clearness,  this  winter-light 
chilled  me  with  such  coldness,  that  even  the  radiant  glances 
of  my  beautiful  companion  at  the  table  (Madam  Vogel) 
only  struck  on  my  heart  like  the  rays  of  the  sun  on  snow 
which  it  cannot  melt.  I  looked  inquiringly  over  to  Adam, 
in  order  to  guess  his  thoughts  ;  but  he  sat  gloomy  and 
silent."  And  Odyniec  rejoices  that  his  great  friend  still  be- 
lieves, as  he  says  in  Dztady,  that  there  was  some  one  who 
hung  the  weights  in  the  clock  of  the  world,  and  that  the 
Polish  prophet  thus  distinguishes  himself  from  the  German 
Titans.  For  him  Goethe  is  the  wise  man :  "  who  does 
not  know  the  living  truth,  sees  no  miracle,"  and  he  applies 
to  himself  with  reference  to  Goethe  the  words  of  Mickie- 
wicz's  poem,  Romanticism :  "  Emotion  and  faith  speak  more 
strongly  to  me  than  the  eye  and  the  telescope  of  a  sage." 
And  then  follows  a  criticism  of  Faust,  dismay  at  the  creed, 
that  God  is  only  an  emotion,  which  man  draws  from  nature, 
and  every  name  a  mere  sound.  What  is  this  Faust  ?  Satire  ? 
Irony  ?  Insult  ?  and  against  what  is  it  directed  ?  he  asks. 
Against  German  scholasticism,  or  the  everlasting  moral  laws 


CHILDHOOD    OF    MICKIEWICZ  231 

and  truths,  emotions  and  ideas,  traditions  and  aims  of  all 
humanity.  He  asks  Mickiewicz  for  counsel,  and  we  see 
that  the  latter  is  content  with  excusing  Geothe  :  "  We  must 
always  recognise  that  he  never  takes  the  offensive  against 
religion  as  the  authors  of  the  last  century  did,  but  is  only  in- 
different to  the  fundamental  religious  truths."  "Consequently 
not  eighteen,  but  twenty  less  two  ! "  bursts  out  Odyniec. 

So  foreign  was  Goethe's  view  of  life  to  Mickiewicz. 
The  nature  of  the  latter  shines  out  in  its  Polish  individuality 
when  we  place  him  by  the  side  of  the  greatest  poetical  genius 
of  Germany. 

He  was  born  in  1798  in  the  little  village  of  Zaosie  near 
Nowogrodek  in  Lithuania,  a  descendant  of  an  old  noble 
family.  In  the  spring  of  181 2,  when  he  was  thirteen  years 
old,  he  saw  the  armies  of  Napoleon  march  through  Poland 
on  the  campaign  against  Russia,  Poland's  white  eagle  united 
with  the  golden  eagle  of  the  empire.  The  King  of  West- 
phalia had  his  headquarters  in  Mickiewicz's  ancestral  home  at 
Nowogrodek.  The  hopeful  and  martial  spirit  of  the  times 
filled  the  child's  soul  and  fertilised  that  of  the  man.  He  says 
in  Pan  Tadeusz  : — 

"  O  Spring  !  to  have  seen  thee  in  our  home  that  great 
year,  thou  memorable  Spring  of  War,  thou  Spring  of  ferti- 
lity !  O  Spring  !  to  have  seen  thee  with  flowers  in  masses, 
with  the  green  of  the  fields  and  woods,  and  the  pomp  of 
warriors  in  battle  array,  rich  in  miracles  and  achievements, 
and  with  a  thousand  hopes  in  thy  lap,  memory  great  and 
fair,  thou  fillest  me  even  to-day.  Born  and  bred  in  thral- 
dom, as  a  child  an  exile  in  chains,  I  have  never  in  my  life 
known  but  one  such  Spring." 

In  1 81 5  Mickiewicz  came  to  the  University  of  Wilna, 
began  to  study  philology,  and  formed  an  intimate  friendship 
with  the  afterwards  well-known  Thomas  Zan,  the  soul  of 
the  private  society  of  the  Philomathians  and  of  the  public 
society  of  the  Philaretans,  both  of  which  recall  the  Ger- 
man Tugendbund,  non-political  associations  having  the  in- 
tellectual and  moral  development  of  the  students  as  their 
aim,  which  were,  however,  soon  to  be  overtaken  by  the 
suspicion  and  persecuting  fury  of  the  Russian  authorities. 


>. 


tJJ* 


232  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

After  having  made  his  first  essays  in  composition  in  a 
purely  classical  style — like  Oehlenschlaeger  and  Victor  Hugo 
— Mickiewicz  turned  to  the  new  European  romanticism. 
Here,  as  in  England,  it  was  Burger's  Lenore  which  called 
forth  a  new  ballad  poetry.  Itself  evoked  by  old  English 
ballads,  the  poem  had  so  strong  an  influence  on  Walter  Scott 
that  he  made  his  debut  with  a  translation  of  it.  A  version 
by  the  Russian  poet  Zukowski  made  so  deep  an  impres- 
sion on  Mickiewicz  that  he  adopted  an  entirely  new  style 
and  composed  a  whole  series  of  ballads,  one  of  which,  called 
The  Flighty  even  treats  of  the  same  theme  as  Letwre.  These 
poems,  which  are  founded  upon  local  popular  traditions  or 
Slav  superstitions,  are  now  romantic  in  the  tone  of  popular 
ballads,  now  vigorously  dramatic  like  the  admirable  song  of 
the  Wojewode — immoral  as  a  poem  in  prose  by  Merim^e — 
or  again  humorous,  like  the  description  of  the  terror  of  the 
devil  at  a  termagant  in  Madam  Twardowska. 

Mickiewicz  had  had  a  first  "  unhappy  love,"  as  it  was 
called,  a  passion  on  which  the  poets  of  that  time  (Byron, 
Heine,  and  many  others)  lived  poetically  for  a  long  time. 
He  had  already  fallen  in  love  in  Nowogrodek  with  a  young 
girl  of  good  family,  Maria  Wereszczaka  (celebrated  in  his 
verse  by  the  name  of  Marylka\  who  preferred  another  to  him. 
In  the  condition  of  erotic  desperation,  which  he  was  now 
experiencing,  Byron  became  his  only  reading,  and  he  wrote 
the  oldest  parts  of  Dziady  (the  Festival  of  the  Dead),  which, 
in  connection  with  an  old  Lithuanian  custom  of  placing 
food  and  drink  in  the  churchyards  for  the  dead  on  All 
Souls'  Day  (the  2nd  of  November),  introduces  peasants, 
shepherds,  an  exorcist,  and  a  great  number  of  spirits  on  an 
imaginary  stage.  Among  these  spirits  is  a  suicide,  the  victim 
of  unhappy  love.  In  other  fragments  this  suicide — called 
Gustavus,  after  the  hero  in  Madam  de  Kriidener's  sentimental 
romance  Valerie — appears  as  a  ghost,  who  is  condemned 
every  year,  on  the  2nd  of  November,  to  suffer  his  agony  of 
mind  again.  All  these  fragments,  full  of  romantic  ghosts 
and  overstrained  emotion,  are  without  interest  to  the  foreign 
reader.  Werther  and  Werther's  offspring  appear  on  the  scene 
again.       Immediately  after,  however,  came  the  little  heroic 


IMPRISONMENT    OF    MICKIEWICZ  233 

poem,  Gracyna,  which  treats  in  fresh  verse  an  old  Lithuanian 
motive  of  patriotism  and  female  bravery,  and  in  this  there 
was  nothing  obscure  or  mawkish  ;  the  form  is  clear,  and 
the  intellectual  impulse  vigorous. 

After  two  or  three  years'  residence  in  Kowno  as  a 
teacher,  Mickiewicz  returned  to  Wilna,  where  events  soon 
revolutionised  the  calm  life  he  had  hitherto  led.  The  murder 
of  Kotzebue  by  Sand  had  helped  on  the  reaction  in  Germany. 
It  was  awakened  at  the  same  time  in  the  great  neighbouring 
land. 

Alexander's  liberal  tendencies  came  to  an  end  with  the 
year  1823.  The  authorities  began  to  hunt  out  attempts  at 
rebellion  on  the  part  of  the  students.  Nowosilcow,  who  had 
fallen  into  disgrace,  after  having  squandered  in  excesses  what 
he  had  scraped  together  in  all  sorts  of  ways,  set  himself  to 
discover  a  conspiracy  in  Poland,  and  went  with  his  whole  staff 
of  spies  to  Lithuania.  All  the  monasteries  in  Wilna,  eight  in 
number,  besides  several  other  public  buildings,  were  made 
into  prisons.  At  the  end  of  October,  1823,  Mickiewicz,  Zan, 
and  all  their  friends  were  arrested.  The  young  men  were 
confined  in  cells,  but  could  see  each  other  in  the  evening  in 
the  cloisters.  How  long  they  were  there  they  did  not  rightly 
know  ;  they  had  no  almanac  and  received  no  letters  ;  there 
were  wooden  shutters  on  the  windows,  so  that  it  was  diffi- 
cult to  distinguish  the  morning  from  the  evening.  Thomas 
Zan,  who  took  upon  himself  all  the  blame  of  the  innocent 
meetings  of  the  Philomathians  and  Philaretans,  was  treated 
the  most  severely,  and  suffered  especially  from  hunger.  He 
was  sent  to  Orenburg,  and  was  not  pardoned  until  1837. 
The  long  exile  changed  his  views  of  life ;  he,  who  had 
been  a  freethinker  and  an  oppositionist,  entered  the  service 
of  the  Russian  state  as  a  mystic  and  ascetic.  After  ten 
months  of  detention,  Mickiewicz  was  sent  to  St.  Petersburg, 
and,  when  he  was  assigned  to  service  in  one  of  the 
governments  of  the  interior,  he  chose  Odessa.  When  he 
came  thither  there  was  no  vacancy  for  a  teacher.  Then 
(in  company  with  the  subsequently  celebrated  Rzewuski, 
who  tried  his  hand  at  authorship  at  the  request  of  Mickiewicz) 
he  made  a  journey  to  the  Crimea,  and  in  his  case,  as  with 


234  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

many  others  of  the  best  Slav  poets,  the  first  view  of  the 
mountain  landscape  and  the  southern  scenery  sharpened 
his  appreciation  of  nature.  What  the  Caucasus  was  to 
be  for  Pushkin,  Lermontow,  and  Tolstoi,  that  the  grand 
panorama  of  the  Crimea  was  for  Mickiewicz.  His  Crimean 
Sonnets  have  justly  been  given  a  chief  place  among  his  poems. 

In  Moscow,  where  he  obtained  a  post  in  the  office 
of  the  governor-general,  he  wrote  Wallenrod,  as  well  as 
Gracyna,  taking  his  subjects  from  the  pagan  days  of  Lithu- 
ania, and  the  contest  of  its  princes  with  the  Teutonic  Knights. 
The  hero,  historically  a  grand  master  of  the  order,  who, 
himself  ruined,  brought  the  whole  order  to  ruin,  was  made 
a  Lithuanian  by  Mickiewicz ;  in  order  to  withstand  the 
national  enemy  more  efifectually  he  insinuates  himself  into 
the  enemy's  camp,  pretends  to  be  of  his  party,  becomes  a 
leader  of  his  army,  and  thus  with  one  blow  avenges  his 
countrymen.  It  is  a  glorification  of  dissimulation  and 
treachery  in  the  service  of  the  fatherland — a  Macchiavellian 
idea  incarnated  in  a  Byronic  hero.  Interwoven  with  this 
fundamental  theme  there  is  a  sentimental  love  story  in  the 
romantic  style. 

The  censor,  who  read  the  poem  without  understanding 
it,  allowed  it  to  be  printed,  and  this,  in  conjunction  with  the 
Crimean  Sonnets,  soon  caused  the  name  of  Mickiewicz  to  be 
in  everybody's  mouth.  The  best  Russian  society  was  opened 
to  him,  not  only  in  Moscow  but  in  St.  Petersburg,  whither 
he  speedily  received  permission  to  travel.  It  was  the 
Princess  Zeneide  Wolkonskaya  who  introduced  the  poet  to 
the  Russian  aristocracy,  where  he  became  a  favourite  and 
was  greatly  loved  and  admired.  Many  ladies  took  lessons 
of  him  in  Polish,  and  the  Princess  Wolkonskaya  became  his 
translator.  The  Sonnets  and  Wallenrod  were  now  read  as 
zealously  in  Russia  as  in  Poland,  and  the  author,  somewhat 
enervated  by  the  amusements  of  society  life  and  the  favour 
of  the  ladies,  for  a  long  time  only  wrote  trifles.  He  had  a 
great  desire  to  see  foreign  countries,  and  it  was  the  influence 
of  the  Princess  Wolkonskaya  which  obtained  him  a  passport 
for  an  indefinite  time  ;  with  this  he  left  St.  Petersburg  in 
May,  to  see  the  wide  world,  by  way  of  Weimar. 


MICKIEWICZ    AND    PUSHKIN  235 

We  have  seen  him  in  personal  contact  with  the  greatest 
poetical  mind  of  Germany.  A  year  before  he  sought  out 
Goethe  he  had  entered  into  personal  relations  of  friendship 
with  the  most  eminent  Russian  authors  of  that  period. 
Mickiewicz  and  Pushkin  were  of  the  same  age.  They  came 
to  occupy  parallel  positions,  each  at  the  head  of  one  of  the 
two  great  Slav  literatures.  Both  commenced  as  disciples  of 
Byron,  both  with  advancing  years  became  more  and  more 
national.  A  fundamental  difference  between  them  lies  in 
the  fact  that  Pushkin,  after  the  controversial  and  rebellious 
attitude  of  his  early  youth  towards  absolute  power,  allowed 
himself  to  be  won  over  by  the  personal  good-will  of  the 
Tzar  Nicholas,  and  lost  all  faith  in  the  ideals  of  his  youth  ; 
while  Mickiewicz,  to  his  death,  continued  faithful  to  his  first 
political  enthusiasms  and  hopes. 

The  memory  of  their  intercourse  is  preserved  in  Push- 
kin's poem.  The  Bronze  Horseman,  and  in  the  fourth  part  of 
Mickiewicz's  poem,  St.  Petersburg,  which  bears  the  sub-title 
The  Monument  of  Peter  the  Great. 

Mickiewicz  has  here  preserved  the  impression  of  a  con- 
versation which  the  poets,  one  day  in  1829,  the  very  year 
before  the  fates  of  Russia  and  Poland  were  divided,  had  in 
St.  Petersburg,  during  a  shower,  both  covered  by  Mickie- 
wicz's cloak,  at  the  foot  of  Falconnefs  celebrated  monument 
to  the  Tzar.     The  verses  are  as  follows  : — 

"  One  afternoon  two  young  men  stood  hand  in  hand, 
seeking  shelter  from  the  rain  under  the  same  cloak.  One 
of  them  was  a  pilgrim  who  had  come  from  the  West,  an 
unknown  victim  to  the  power  of  the  Tzar ;  the  other  was 
the  poet  of  the  Russian  people,  celebrated  through  the  whole 
North  for  his  songs.  They  were  not  old  acquaintances, 
though  they  knew  each  other  well,  and  a  few  days  before 
had  become  friends.  Their  souls,  which  had  raised  them- 
selves high  above  the  barriers  of  the  earthly  life,  resembled 
two  twin  mountain  peaks  in  the  Alps,  which,  separated  by 
a  furious  mountain  torrent,  are  hardly  sensible  of  the  roar  of 
the  force  which  separates  them,  and  bend  their  lofty  peaks 
toward  each  other.  The  pilgrim  stood  lost  in  deep  thought, 
when  the  Russian  poet,  in  a  low  voice,  said  to  him  : — 


236  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

"'To  the  first  Tzar,  who  created  this  magnificent  city, 
the  second  Tzarina  raised  this  memorial.^  The  Tzar,  already 
cast  in  bronze  of  heroic  size,  sat  on  the  back  of  his 
Bucephalus,  and  waited  till  a  place  should  be  prepared  for 
him  and  his  horse.  But  there  was  not  ground  enough  for 
him  to  stand  on  in  the  land  of  his  birth.  So  they  sent  a 
messenger  over  the  sea  for  a  pedestal  for  him.  And  from 
Finland's  rocky  shore  a  huge  granite  block  was  torn  away, 
and,  at  the  bidding  of  the  Tzarina,  swam  over  the  waves, 
sprang  on  shore,  rolled  on,  until,  in  the  great  city,  it  cast 
itself  down  at  its  ruler's  feet.  There  it  lay  firmly,  and  then 
the  bronze  Tzar  dashed  forward,  the  knoutocratic  Tzar  in  his 
Roman  toga ;  he  spurred  his  horse  so  that  with  a  leap  he 
mounted  on  the  granite  block,  steadied  himself  on  the  edge, 
and  reared  up  in  the  air. 

" '  Not  thus  in  old  Rome  does  Marcus  Aurelius,  that 
favourite  of  the  people,  sit  on  his  horse,  he  who  first  made 
his  name  famous  by  driving  out  spies  and  accusers,  then, 
after  having  punished  the  tormentors  at  home,  chastised  the 
highwaymen  on  the  Rhine,  and  the  barbarians  on  the  Pac- 
tolus,  and  peacefully  returned  to  the  Capitoline.  Beautiful, 
noble,  and  gentle  is  his  brow,  from  which  one  idea  shines, 
that  of  the  welfare  of  the  kingdom.  He  raises  his  right 
hand  majestically,  as  if  to  give  his  blessing  to  the  whole 
host  of  his  subjects  ;  the  other  hand  rests  on  the  reins  and 
restrains  the  ardour  of  his  steed. 

" '  But  the  Tzar  Peter  gives  his  horse  the  reins  ;  we  see 
that  he  has  ridden  everything  down  in  his  way.  Now  he 
has  sprung  up  on  the  upper  side  of  the  rock.  The  fore- 
leg of  the  horse  already  plays  in  the  air  ;  the  Tzar  does  not 
hold  him  back  ;  he  pulls  at  the  bit ;  he  must  fall  and  be 
crushed.  It  has  already  stood  thus  for  a  century  without 
falling.  Thus  a  waterfall  issues  from  a  mountain,  is  caught 
by  the  frost  and  stiffens  into  ice,  hanging  over  an  abyss. 

"'  Yet  when  the  sun  of  freedom  rises  and  a  breath  from 
the  West  warms  these  frost-bound  regions,  what  will  then 
become  of  the  waterfall — and  of  tyranny  ?  '  " 

As  various  internal  signs  show,  the  words  are  really  the 

^  The  inscription  is :  "  Pietro  primo  Catharina  secunda." 


MICKIEWICZ    AND    PUSHKIN  237 

words  of  Mickiewicz,  not  of  the  Russian  poet  into  whose 
mouth  he  has  put  them.  Pushkin  for  his  part  afterwards 
wrote  a  poem  about  this  meeting  in  St.  Petersburg,  which 
was  not  printed  till  four  years  after  his  death  in  1841,  and 
which,  since  at  that  time  it  was  impossible  to  mention 
Mickiewicz's  name  in  Russia,  merely  bears  the  superscription 
"To  M."     In  it  is  the  following  passage  : — 

"  He  was  our  guest.  Among  a  race  which  was  foreign 
to  him,  he  cherished  no  hatred  to  us  and  on  our  side  we 
loved  him.  Gentle  and  as  a  friend  he  sat  at  our  table.  We 
exchanged  with  him  pure  dreams  and  poems.  He  was 
inspired  by  heaven  and  looked  down  upon  life  as  if  from 
above.  He  often  spoke  about  the  days  of  a  great  future, 
when  the  nations  should  forget  their  dissensions  and  be 
united  in  a  single  great  family.  We  listened  eagerly  to  his 
prophecies.  Then  he  passed  on  to  the  West  and  our 
blessings  followed  him  on  the  way.  But  now  our  peaceful 
guest  has  become  our  enemy ;  to  flatter  the  fierce  multitude 
who  listen  to  him,  he  sings  the  praise  of  hatred  in  his 
verses.  His  voice  comes  to  us  from  afar.  O  God  !  give 
peace  to  his  embittered  heart." 

There  is  no  shadow  of  any  personal  ill-humour  in  this 
utterance,  in  which  Mickiewicz's  later  position  is  judged 
from  a  Russian  point  of  view.  A  still  warmer  sympathy 
inspired  the  article  which  Mickiewicz  published  in  the  French 
newspaper,  Le  Globe,  on  receipt  of  the  news  of  Pushkin's  death. 
In  spite  of  all  the  attraction  towards  each  other  which  they 
experienced  at  a  certain  period  of  their  lives,  and  in  spite  of 
their  common  descent  from  Byron,  they  were  and  continued 
to  be  contrasts  in  so  far  as  Pushkin  in  his  whole  being  was 
an  aristocrat,  a  poet  for  the  few,  a  scorner  of  the  many,  while 
Mickiewicz,  on  the  other  hand,  was  a  spirit  wholly  given  up 
to  his  nation.  For  Pushkin,  to  be  national  meant  recon- 
ciliation with  the  authorities,  a  rupture  with  trust  in  freedom 
and  in  the  future  of  Europe.  On  the  other  hand,  Mickiewicz 
became  national  only  by  emancipation  from  all  connection 
with  official  Russia  and  by  an  optimistic  enthusiasm,  which 
stands  in  the  sharpest  contrast  to  Pushkin's  constantly 
increasing  satiety.     In  his  later  productions  Pushkin   con- 


238  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

stantly  complains  that  the  dreams  of  his  youth  have  left 
him,  dreams  of  love,  of  freedom,  of  honour.  And  he  ex- 
claims, "  I  see  no  goal  before  me." 

The  strength  of  Mickiewicz  as  a  productive  genius  was 
that  he  was  not  for  a  moment  in  doubt  as  to  his  aim. 

Pushkin  was  Russian  as  Mickiewicz  was  Polish.  But  as 
Michelet  has  somewhere  expressed  it,  if  I  am  not  mistaken, 
at  that  time  Russia  was  not  as  yet  a  nation,  only  an 
administration  and  a  whip.  The  administration  was  the 
German  and  the  whip  the  Cossack.  But  while  Russia  was 
a  government  without  a  nation,  Poland  had  the  compara- 
tively better  lot  of  being  a  nation  without  a  government. 


THE  POLITICAL  SITUATION  DETERMINES  THE  MANNER  OF  TREAT- 
ING ALL  SUBJECTS,  THE  POINT  OF  VIEW  FOR  LOVE  AND 
HATE,  MATERNAL  AND  FILIAL  EMOTIONS,  THE  RELATION 
BETWEEN  THE  INDIVIDUAL  AND  THE  PEOPLE,  BETWEEN 
GENIUS  AND  THE  SURROUNDING  WORLD,  BETWEEN  EMOTION 
AND  REASON,  RELATION  TO  RELIGION  AND  PHILOSOPHY 

As  soon  as  we  have  observed  how  the  three  factors,  national 
character,  Romanticism,  and  the  poHtical  situation,  determine, 
develop,  exalt,  humble  or  stamp  the  nature  of  these  poets 
as  men,  we  easily  discover  how  these  same  motive  powers 
invariably  determine  their  productions.  But  since  Roman- 
ticism is  the  same  in  all  countries,  and  the  national  character 
manifests  itself  quite  differently  in  different  times  (for  instance 
quite  otherwise  now  than  at  that  time)  it  appears  that  the 
political  situation  is  the  important  factor. 

It  determines  the  point  of  view  from  which  the  life  of  man 
is  beheld,  the  point  of  view  for  all  the  spiritual  problems, 
which  are  treated,  the  character  of  the  masculine  and 
feminine  leading  persons,  and  the  entire  symbolic  and 
allegorical  form  of  the  poems. 

The  study  of  Polish  literature  leaves  no  doubt  that  it  is 
the  poetico-political  dream  life,  which  modifies  the  spiritual 
condition  and  the  spiritual  questions  that  are  contempo- 
raneously treated  in  European  poetry,  because  it  brings 
them  within  the  national  angle  of  vision,  wholly  excludes 
some  questions  and  brings  forward  certain  new  ones,  which 
are  not  treated  in  any  other  place. 

For  instance,   let  us  consider  the  subjects  on  which  the 

poetry  of  Goethe  and  Heine,  Byron  and  Shelley,  Hugo  and 

Musset  turns,  and  see  what  form   and  shape  they  assume 

here. 

Such  subjects  are  the  whole  domain  of  love  and  hate, 

339 


240  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

the  description  of  all  the  passions  in  their  conflict  and  battle 
with  duties,  the  question  of  the  power  of  the  human  spirit 
to  penetrate  and  understand  the  universe,  of  the  justification 
and  future  of  religious  faith,  of  the  relative  right  of  the 
different  ranks  in  the  war  of  classes,  of  the  right  of  genius 
and  its  meaning  for  its  nation  and  for  humanity,  the 
different  views  of  life  of  two  generations  succeeding  each 
other,  &c. 

Take  an  emotion  like  love  between  a  man  and 
woman,  and  see  how  it  is  treated  by  a  Polish  poet  of 
that  period. 

In  the  narrative  and  dramatic  works  it  often  has  a  wild 
and  criminal,  but  never  a  sensual  character.  But  when  the 
poets  either  express  themselves  in  their  own  name  or  through 
heroes,  behind  whose  masks  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  their 
traits,  it  is  amazing  how  abstract  and  incorporeal  love 
becomes  in  their  hands.  It  is  always  emotion,  never  desire. 
It  is  in  unison  with  this  that  the  sorrow  of  love — and  there 
is  more  of  the  sorrow  of  love  than  of  its  joy  in  their  poetry 
— is  forced  into  the  background  and  overcome  by  other  less 
personal  emotions,  like  political  enthusiasm  or  patriotism.  In 
Mickiewicz's  Dziady,  the  hero,  under  the  impression  of  such 
a  revulsion  of  feeling,  even  gives  himself  a  new  name.  He 
designates  the  day  on  which  he  was  imprisoned  (which 
corresponds  with  the  day  on  which  the  author  was  im- 
prisoned) as  the  day  of  the  death  of  his  old  ego,  as  his  new 
birthday,  drops  his  peaceful  name,  Gustavus,  and  assumes 
the  new  martial  one,  Conrad.  Gustavus  obiit  MDCCCXXIII 
Calendis  Novemhris.  Hie  natus  est  Conradus,  &c.  That  is, 
the  name  of  the  hero  of  Byron's  Corsair  replaces  that  of 
Madame  de  Kriidener's  emotional  romance.  The  incident  is 
typical.  There  is  generally  a  Gustavus  who  dies  in  order 
that  a  Conrad  may  arise.  And  it  is  also  in  harmony  with 
this  that  the  Polish  women  in  poetry  are  so  unearthly.  We 
can  never  imagine  them  engaged  in  the  daily  work  of  life. 
They  are  either  heroines,  who,  high  on  horseback,  rush  into 
the  tumult  of  the  battle,  or  they  are  ethereal  phantoms,  visions 
from  a  better  world,  angelic  manifestations,  whose  being  is 
pure  soul. 


IDEALISATION    OF    WOMAN  241 

There  are  in  one  of  Wordsworth's  poems  these  well-known 
lines  about  a  young  woman  whom  he  admires : — 

"  A  creature  not  too  bright  or  good 
For  human  nature's  daily  food  ; 
For  transient  sorrows,  simple  wiles, 
Praise,  blame,  love,  kisses,  tears,  and  smiles. 

A  being  breathing  thoughtful  breath, 
A  traveller  betwixt  life  and  death  ; 
The  reason  firm,  the  temperate  will, 
Endurance,  foresight,  strength,  and  skill." 

Such  an  earthly  and  simple  ideal  of  woman,  as  it  may  be 
called,  is  never  found  here,  because  the  national  keynote  and 
the  secret  political  thought  of  the  poets  demand  to  see  her 
either  in  the  guise  of  a  patriotic  Amazon,  or  as  the  personifi- 
cation of  the  national  genius. 

Thus  woman  is  greatly  admired,  much  glorified,  but  little 
observed  or  studied  here.  Neither  as  a  sweetheart,  nor  as 
a  daughter,  nor  as  a  sister,  nor  as  a  mother  does  she  stand 
out  purely  as  a  human  being,  with  strongly  individualised 
qualities.  The  picture  immediately  becomes  ideal,  and  is 
always  kept  within  the  definitions  of  a  species.  Love  is 
generally  described  without  any  shadows,  filial  affection  is 
often  exalted,  as  in  Slowacki's  Lilla  IVeneda,  by  all  the  cruel 
sufferings  which  a  hostile  prince  makes  the  father  endure  ; 
and  the  mother  appears  as  one  whose  emotions  are  hardened 
early,  and  whose  vocation  consists  in  accustoming  the  son  to 
bear  with  firmness  whatever  hard  fate  life  may  have  in  store 
for  him.  This  is  the  "  note  "  of  Mickiewicz's  celebrated  poem, 
To  the  Polish  Mother :  "  Take  thy  son  in  time  into  a  solitary 
cave,  teach  him  to  sleep  on  rushes,  to  breathe  the  damp  and 
vitiated  air,  and  to  share  his  couch  with  poisonous  vermin. 
There  he  will  learn  to  make  his  wrath  subterranean,  his 
thought  unfathomable,  and  quietly  to  poison  his  words,  and 
give  his  being  the  humble  aspect  of  the  serpent.  Our 
Redeemer,  as  a  child,  played  in  Nazareth  with  the  cross  on 
which  He  saved  the  world.  O  Polish  mother !  In  thy 
place  I  would  give  to  thy  son  the  toys  of  his  future  to 
play  with.     Give  him  early  chains  on  his  hands,  accustom 

Q 


242  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

him  to  push  the  convict's  dirty  wheelbarrow,  so  that  he  shall 
not  grow  pale  before  the  executioner's  axe,  nor  blush  at  the 
sight  of  the  halter.  For  he  will  not  go  on  a  crusade  to 
Jerusalem,  like  the  olden  knights,  and  plant  his  banner  in 
the  conquered  city,  nor  will  he,  like  the  soldier  of  the  tri- 
colour, be  able  to  plough  the  field  of  freedom  and  water  it 
with  his  blood.  No  !  an  unknown  spy  will  accuse  him  ;  he 
must  defend  himself  before  a  perjured  court  ;  his  battle- 
field will  be  a  dungeon  underground,  and  an  all-powerful 
enemy  his  judge.  The  blasted  wood  of  the  gallows  will  be 
the  monument  on  his  grave  ;  a  few  woman's  tears,  soon 
dried,  and  the  long  talks  of  his  countrymen  in  the  night-time, 
will  be  his  sole  honour  and  memorial  after  death." 

The  masculine  leading  characters  in  these  poems,  like 
romantic  heroes  in  general,  are  nationalists,  and  moreover 
passionate  and  martial  natures.  But  there  are  traits  which 
distinguish  them  among  all  others. 

In  the  North  in  those  days  our  poets  went  to  antiquity  to 
find  heroes.  The  most  celebrated  of  them,  the  heroes  of 
Oehlenschlaeger,  are  types  of  the  most  vigorous  youth  of  .those 
times,  light-hearted,  eager  for  battle,  fond  of  travelling,  in 
the  main  good-natured,  not  without  transitory  relations 
with  mermaids  and  terrestrial  women.  Tegner's  Frithiof  is 
something  of  the  same  kind  in  Swedish,  a  knight  whose 
relation  to  the  political  events  of  his  time  is  extremely 
weak,  almost  nil. 

They  do  not  in  any  respect  resemble  the  heroes  of  the 
contemporary  Polish  literature.  These  are  all  much  more 
weird  and  all  pursue  politics.  If,  for  instance,  we  compare  Teg- 
ner's Axel  with  Mickiewicz's  Gracyna,  two  poems  whose  whole 
form  is  borrowed  from  the  poetic  narratives  of  Byron,  and 
which  further  have  this  in  common,  that  in  both  a  woman 
fights  in  the  dress  of  a  man,  then  the  difference  is  especially 
this,  that  in  Tegner's  poem  everything  is  wanting  which, 
even  if  ever  so  feebly,  could  sound  like  an  exhortation  or 
warning  to  the  poet's  contemporaries.  On  the  other  hand, 
in  Mickiewicz,  whose  scene  is  laid  in  pagan  Lithuania,  the 
action  is  as  follows  :  Prince  Litawor,  dissatisfied  with  his 
father-in-law  Witold,  called  on  the  Teutonic  Knights  for  help. 


MICKIEWICZ'S    "GRACYNA" 


243 


His  wife  Gracyna,  who  has  not  been  able  to  keep  him  from 
this  defection,  arbitrarily  commands  that  the  German  mes- 
senger shall  be  denied  access  to  Nowogrddek.  And  when 
the  wrathful  allies  direct  their  campaign  against  Litawor 
instead  of  against  Witold,  Gracyna  puts  on  her  husband's 
armour,  passes  herself  off  for  him,  and  goes  to  battle  agamst 
the  Germans.  Although  the  victory  falls  to  the  Lithuanians 
— thanks  to  Litawor  who  hastens  to  the  spot  at  the  right 
time — the  princess  herself  is  mortally  wounded  by  a  shot 
from  a  German  gun.  Her  slayer  is  thrown  upon  the 
funeral  pyre  with  her  body,  and  Litawor  casts  himself  into 
the  flames.  The  lesson  which  the  author  seems  to  wish  to 
teach  to  his  countrymen  is  therefore  this :  A  wife,  in  spite 
of  her  husband  and  prince's  command,  may  dare  to  send 
away  allies,  deceive  the  army,  expose  the  country  to  danger, 
carry  on  war,  lose  the  battle,  provided  only  that  she  has  the 
national  honour  in  view  ;  everything  is  allowed,  when  the 
highest  object  is  at  stake. 

Or  let  us  take  another  group  of  leading  masculine  char- 
acters which  have  their  origin  in  Byron's  heroes,  the  young 
men  of  Alfred  de  Musset.  One  and  all  they  are  placed  in 
this  dilemma :  the  possibility  of  distinguishing  themselves 
by  achievements,  now  that  the  Napoleonic  era  is  over,  seems 
to  be  closed  to  them.  They  accordingly  throw  themselves 
into  debaucheries,  and  in  a  life  which  excites  and  stupefies 
the  senses,  but  weakens  the  energy,  they  become  more  or 
less  unfit  for  political,  artistic,  or  martial  action. 

This  internal  contest  between  the  inclination  to  amuse- 
ments and  the  impulse  to  action  never  appears  in  the  Polish 
poets.  Here  the  conflict  is  always  between  the  inclination  to 
action  on  a  large  scale  and  some  kind  of  obstacle  which 
lies  before  the  individual,  and  which  he  is  not  in  a  position 
to  get  out  of  the  way. 

Just  as  little  as  in  Victor  Hugo,  are  the  heroes  here 
young  representatives  of  the  new  stratum  of  society  which, 
as  if  inspired  by  the  recollection  of  the  French  revolution, 
rises  in  bitter  contest  against  the  higher  classes.  The  hero 
here  is  never  a  democrat  from  principle,  to  say  nothing  of  a 
republican.     In  social  aspects  the  whole  of  this  poetry  has  a 


244  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

conservative  stamp.  Even  Slowacki,  who  passes  for  the 
poet  of  the  future,  is  no  serious  exception.  The  only  work  in 
which  class  contests  play  an  important  part,  Krasinski's  God- 
less Comedy,  is  so  far  from  showing  the  advocate  of  democracy 
in  a  heroic  light,  that  he  even  appears  as  a  figure  of  a 
Caliban-like  roughness,  who  is  not  even  fully  certain  of  his 
rights  and  convictions. 

And  finally  if  we  compare  the  leading  characters  in  the 
Polish  poets  with  those  of  Byron's  own  poetic  youthful 
narratives,  which  had  such  an  extraordinary  influence  upon 
the  Polish  poets,  we  find  that  there  is  indeed  a  certain 
resemblance  in  the  violence  of  mind,  and  the  wild  and  melan- 
choly despair  ;  their  life  is  a  chain  of  sufferings,  disappoint- 
ments, passions,  crimes,  and  imprecations,  but  they  never 
have  the  trait,  which  passed  from  Byron's  own  nature  into 
that  of  Cht'lde  Harold  and  Lara,  of  despising  their  own 
countrymen,  their  own  country.  When  they  become 
traitors  to  it  or  fight  against  it — like  Litawor,  like  Wallenrod 
— it  is  in  a  transitory  fit  of  passion,  which  is  immediately 
repented  of,  or  the  treachery  is  feigned  for  a  short  time 
only  with  the  intention  when  it  comes  to  the  point,  of 
serving  it  the  more  energetically.  Nay,  even  when,  like 
Slowacki's  fantastic  king,  they  subject  the  nation  to  suffer- 
ings and  torments  without  number,  it  is  only  from  a  kind 
of  higher  love,  which  under  the  mask  of  cruelty  is  the 
motive  power  of  their  method  of  treatment.  They  would 
harden  the  nation  as  the  smith  hardens  the  metal  on  his 
anvil,  they  would  by  harshness  force  the  nation  up  to  a 
continually  higher  plane  of  development.  And  the  poet's 
intention  is  never,  like  Byron's,  to  nettle  or  rebuke  a  circle 
of  readers,  but  to  arouse  a  nation,  to  teach  it  that  a  national 
existence  is  not  too  dearly  bought  by  the  torture  of  a 
whole  generation.  In  order  to  arouse  his  nation  he  would 
"  beat  on  the  heavens  as  on  a  brazen  shield." 

The  schism  between  the  great  individual  and  the  nation, 
which  is  so  characteristic  of  the  life  and  poetry  of  Shelley 
and  Byron,  never  manifests  itself  here  ;  this  is,  indeed, 
partly  because  the  poets  never  exalted  themselves  so  high 
above  the  average  intellectual  condition  of  their  people,  its 


r 


INSPIRED    STRAIN    IN    POLISH    POETRY     245 


religious  and  political  daily  life,  as  Shelley,  for  instance,  but 
also  quite  as  much  because  of  their  feeling  of  homogeneity 
with  the  people  whose  only  organs  they  were. 

And  as  they  felt  themselves  one  with  the  people,  so 
also  they  saw  the  people  collectively.  This  is  the  reason 
why  they  never  tried  to  describe  the  opposition  between 
two  successive  generations,  a  theme  which  generally  supplies 
such  a  fruitful  material  for  poetry,  and  which  Kraszewki 
afterwards  made  his  own.  Mickiewicz,  indeed,  glanced  at 
the  subject  as  a  theme  of  the  past  in  his  dramatic  frag- 
ment written  only  in  French,  Jacques  Jasinski  ou  Les  deux 
Polognes."  In  Pan  Tadeusz  he  makes  the  imitation  of  foreign 
customs  and  the  praising  of  foreign  countries  the  subject 
of  mild  derision ;  he  contrasts  therewith  the  love  of  the 
beautiful  natural  scenery  and  old  usages  of  his  native 
country,  but  he  never  desired  to  use  as  a  subject  any 
contrast  between  the  methods  of  thought  of  two  generations. 

And  on  the  feeling  of  the  indissoluble  connection  of 
these  poets  with  their  people  depends  also  the  existing 
conception  of  poetic  genius.  In  those  times  they  never 
conceived  of  the  poet  in  Poland  as  an  artist,  but  as  a 
seer.  That  poetry  is  above  all  an  art,  according  to  some 
the  first  of  all  arts,  that  its  function  is  the  representation 
of  the  life  of  nature  and  of  man  in  a  perfect  and  irreproach- 
able and  therefore  imperishable  form,  was  seldom  suggested. 
If  by  exception  one  of  these  poets  undertook  such  a  peace- 
ful and  comprehensive  reproduction,  as  did  Mickiewicz  in 
Pan  Tadeusz,  he  personally  valued  this  work  of  his  very 
little,  and  did  not  even  understand  its  exceptional  worth. 
They  conceived  of  poetry  above  all  as  inspiration,  as  a 
divine  frenzy,  which  discloses  itself  in  hallucination  and 
improvisation,  and  as  a  fact  these  poets  were  almost  all 
eminent  improvisatores  and  subject  to  illusions.  In  a  certain 
sense  it  can  therefore  be  said  that  Conrad's  improvisation  in 
Dziady,  which  gives  an  intensified  conception  of  Mickiewicz's 
own  improvisation,  marks  the  apogee  of  the  romantic  poetry 
of  Poland. 

There  is  only  one  among  their  poets,  Krasinski,  who  is 
alive  to  the  dangers  of  the  nervous  exaltation,  which  resulted 


246  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

from  this  ideal.  In  his  melodrama,  The  Godless  Comedy,  he 
pointed  out  vigorously  the  weakness  of  character  which  was 
its  bane.  The  poet  is  regarded  by  the  others  as  the  chosen 
leader  of  the  people,  not  "  myriad-minded  "  in  a  general  sense 
as  Shakespeare  calls  the  poet,  but  exclusively  representing 
the  millions  of  men  who  make  up  his  people.  In  this  sense 
we  must  take  what  Conrad  says  of  himself :  "  I  am  called 
Million,  for  I  love  and  suffer  for  millions  of  men." 

The  greatness  and  beauty  of  this  interpretation  of  genius 
depend  on  its  narrowness.  Genius  here  is  intensified 
patriotism,  which  is  thought  to  make  a  man  inspired  and  far- 
seeing,  and  which  by  putting  in  his  mouth  the  words  which 
charm,  secures  his  ascendency  over  other  minds.  In  the 
improvisation,  Conrad  says : — 

"  My  love  does  not  rest  on  a  single  being  like  the 
insect  on  a  rose  ;  nor  on  a  family  nor  on  a  century.  I 
love  the  whole  nation.  I  have  embraced  all  its  past  and 
coming  generations,  pressed  them  to  my  heart  as  a  friend, 
a  lover,  a  bridegroom,  a  father.  I  would  give  my  father- 
land life  and  happiness,  make  it  admired  by  all  the  nations 
of  the  earth  if  I  could.  But  the  power  for  that  is  wanting 
to  me,  and  I  stand  here  armed  with  all  the  might  of  my 
thought — and  also  with  that  power  which  men  do  not  give, 
the  feeling  which  burns  within  me  as  in  a  crater  and  some- 
times breaks  out  in  words.  ...  I  was  born  a  creator.  1 
have  my  powers  from  the  same  source  as  Thou,  God,  hast 
thine.  ...  Is  it  Thou  who  hast  given  me  my  mighty  pene- 
trating gaze,  or  did  I  myself  take  it  there  where  Thou 
didst  take  Thine  ?  In  the  moments  of  my  full  strength, 
when  I  lift  my  eyes  towards  the  driving  clouds  or  the 
sailing  bird  of  passage,  then  I  only  need  to  will,  and  with  a 
glance  I  bring  them  to  a  standstill,  catch  them  as  in  a 
net  .  .  .  only  men,  corrupt,  frail,  even  if  immortal,  serve 
and  know  me  not.  .  .  .  But  I  will  lead  them,  not  with 
weapons,  for  one  weapon  protects  from  another — by  the 
feeling  which  is  in  me.  Let  men  be  for  me  as  the  thoughts 
and  words  with  which,  when  I  will,  I  construct  poems.  It 
is  said  that  it  is  thus  that  Thou  rulest.  ...  I  would  have 
power.     Give  it  to  me  or  show  me  the  way  to  it.     My  soul 


POLISH    POETS    ESSENTIALLY    RELIGIOUS     247 

is  incarnated  in  my  native  land,  and  in  my  body  I  have  all 
the  soul  of  my  native  land.  My  country  and  I  are  one  only. 
I  look  on  my  unhappy  country  with  the  same  eyes  with 
which  a  son  sees  his  father  broken  on  a  wheel ;  1  feel  the 
pangs  of  a  whole  nation,  as  a  mother  feels  in  herself  those  of 
her  child." 

This  is  not  the  careless  northern  conception  of  men  of 
genius  as  the  elect  of  fortune,  who,  by  a  miracle,  easily 
find  what  inquirers  seek  for  in  vain.  But  Conrad  is  just 
as  far  removed  from  the  brooding  heroes,  the  Manfreds  or 
Fausts,  with  whom  George  Sand  in  her  time  compared  him. 
For  the  joys  and  sorrows  of  a  life  of  thought  are  far  from 
occupying  the  prominent  place  in  the  poetry  of  Poland 
which  they  hold  in  that  of  Germany  or  England.  The 
slow  and  toilsome  struggle  of  human  thought  for  freedom, 
for  strength  to  cast  aside  the  cerements  of  prejudice,  its 
attempt  to  penetrate  the  secrets  of  the  universe,  which  is 
elsewhere  described  with  confidence  in  thought  as  the 
guiding  power,  and  with  faith  in  its  final  victory — all  this 
appears  here  only  as  foolhardy  exertion,  or  an  outburst  of 
tragic  despair. 

For  to  all  these  poets  the  answer  which  religion  gives 
is  the  final  answer.  They  sometimes  doubt,  they  never 
reject.  Even  when  they  lose  faith  in  some  dogma  of 
Catholicism,  even  when  they  make  attacks  upon  the  Church 
and  its  priests,  or  show  sacred  things  in  a  comic  light, 
they  do  not  dissociate  themselves  from  the  Christian  con- 
ception of  the  world. 

Thus  we  saw  from  Odyniec's  letters  during  his  residence 
in  Weimar,  those  admirable  descriptions  of  the  intercourse 
between  men  of  genius  and  talent,  and  beautiful  women, 
that,  however  great  an  admiration  the  author  cherished  for 
Goethe  as  artist  and  scientist,  he  understood  nothing  what- 
ever of  his  philosophy  of  life,  and  even  if  Mickiewicz  under- 
stood this  better,  it  is  clear  that  he  did  not  feel  a  greater 
attraction  to  it.  Odyniec's  reflections  on  Faust  are  as 
feminine  as  those  of  Mme.  de  Stael  in  her  Germany,  and 
Mickiewicz  was  not  able  to  see  anything  in  Goethe's 
nature-worship   and  natural  piety  but  avowed   indifference 


248  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

to  revealed  religion.  Krasinski  also  expresses  himself  wholly 
in  the  same  spirit  when,  in  the  preface  to  Dawn,  he  says 
that  "the  phlegmatico-delirious  atheism  of  German  philo- 
sophy has  resulted  in  chaos,"  and  when  in  the  bold 
anticipatory  attempt  to  give  a  positive  system  of  funda- 
mental definitions  and  laws  of  the  universe,  he  only  sees 
the  negation  of  a  revelation. 

The  Polish  poets  did  not  share  the  rationalistic  belief  of 
the  greatest  of  Germans,  because  they  vaguely  felt  that  with 
this  belief  no  firm  immovable  bounds  were  prescribed  to 
the  human  understanding,  and  that,  as  a  necessary  comple- 
ment, it  circumscribed  the  possibilities  of  and  the  capacity 
for  action.  They  wanted  a  belief  in  the  energy  of  youthful 
enthusiasm  as  it  appears  in  the  Ode  to  Youth,  a  belief  in 
miracles  of  courage  and  achievement  which  presupposed 
belief  in  miracles  as  a  link  in  the  government  of  the  world, 
and  therefore  necessarily  regarded  reason  as  a  quality  of 
very  great  limitations.  Since  they  wished  to  have  a  right 
to  demand  the  improbable,  the  impossible  of  youth,  they 
had  necessarily  to  secure  for  themselves  an  enclosure  for 
the  supernatural  in  space  as  well  as  in  time. 

Finally,  they  felt  strongly,  with  regard  to  Goethe,  that  the 
religion  they  needed  was  not  a  religion  of  contemplation  like 
his,  but  a  religion  of  action  and  suffering.  Goethe's  pan- 
theism therefore  could  not  compensate  for  their  inherited 
circle  of  ideas,  which  incited  to  deeds,  and  surrounded 
torments  with  glory. 

Nor  could  the  otherwise  predominant  influence  of 
Byron's  poetry  disintegrate  this  circle  of  ideas.  They 
encountered  in  him  no  opposite  convictions,  only  doubts 
and  questions.  Let  us  suppose,  for  the  sake  of  argument, 
that  Shelley  in  his  lifetime  had  received  the  recognition  he 
only  obtained  half  a  century  after  his  death  ;  then  the 
Polish  poets  would  have  found  in  him  the  combination 
which  nowhere  met  them  —  Goethe's  lofty  and  sure  con- 
ception of  nature  in  combination  with  the  practical  en- 
thusiasm, the  strong  hope,  and  the  belief  in  the  miracles 
of  activity,  which  they  themselves  required,  and  which  to 
their  sorrow  they  missed  in  the  old  man  at  Weimar  ;  for 


CONRAD'S    MONOLOGUE    IN    "  DZIADY "       249 

Shelley  was  eternally  young,  and,  like  them,  appealed  to  the 
youth  of  the  mind.  If  they  had  come  under  his  influence 
instead  of  Byron's,  the  cause  of  intellectual  freedom  in 
Poland  would  have  a  less  difficult  battle  to  fight  now. 
Without  wounding  the  religious  feelings  of  their  readers, 
they  would  have  been  able  to  transform  them  so  far,  that 
the  inevitable  schism  in  the  future  between  the  ideas  of  this 
century  and  the  emotional  life  of  the  nation,  would  have 
been  less  deep. 

It  is  especially  in  Conrad's  great  monologue  in  Dziady, 
that  Mickiewicz  has  tried  his  powers  of  formulating  a  theory 
of  the  universe.  The  enormous  extent  of  human  suffering 
has  brought  Conrad  to  doubt  the  existence  of  God.  From 
the  first  he  feels  himself  as  strong  as  a  god.  The  poets 
in  those  times  liked  to  regard  themselves  as  gods.  This  is 
the  confusion  of  ideas  which  appears  in  all  countries  when 
Romanticism  culminates.  The  poet  who,  in  imagination,  can 
stop  the  flight  of  the  birds  and  the  course  of  the  stars,  can 
it  is  argued,  really  do  so,  since  in  this  fantasy  of  his  he 
has  a  divine  power  ;  for,  according  to  the  romantic  teaching, 
imagination  is  the  decisive  quality,  that  which  God  and  man 
have  in  common  ;  the  creative  power  of  the  divinity  is 
imagination. 

And  it  is  in  this  feeling  of  his  supposed  power  over 
nature  that  Conrad  asks  of  space  if  there  is  a  higher  power 
than  his  own  :  "  Show  thyself,  and  let  me  be  sensible  of 
thy  superiority  ! "  He  cannot  solve  the  contradiction  that 
divinity  is  a  quiet  spectator  of  the  sufferings  of  life  on 
earth.  "  I  suffer,  I  rage  ! — and  contented  and  secure  Thou 
rulest  continually,  judgest  continually,  and  it  is  said  that 
Thou  art  never  wrong.  Listen  to  me,  if  it  be  true,  that 
which  I  learned  even  in  my  cradle,  and  have  believed  in 
with  childish  faith,  if  it  be  true  that  Thou  lovest,  that  Thou 
lovedst  the  world,  because  Thou  didst  create  it,  ...  if  a 
heart,  which  feels,  is  not  a  freak  of  nature,  which  is 
produced  by  accident  and  dies  before  it  comes  to 
maturity  ;  if  in  Thy  kingdom  emotion  is  not  an  illegal 
thing  ;  if  millions  of  unhappy  beings,  who  call  for  help, 
are  anything  else  in  Thine  eyes  than  an  equation,  which  it 


250  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

is  difficult  to  solve,  then  .  .  .  Thou  art  silent !  I  have 
unveiled  Thy  inmost  being — with  a  voice  which  will  resound 
from  generation  to  generation  I  cry  out  into  the  universe, 
to  the  utmost  borders  of  creation,  that  Thou  art  not  the 
world's  father,  .  .  .  but  (the  voice  of  the  devil)  its  Tzar." 
We  see  that  the  poet  has  taken  care  that  the  reader  should 
not  confound  his  own  way  of  thinking  with  that  of  the 
hero,  for  it  is  the  devil  who  here  prompts  Conrad,  and 
the  irritation  under  which  he  speaks  is  imparted  to  him  by 
^invisible  demons,  who  fill  the  air  about  him. 

Thus,  but  even  more  distinctly,  Krasinski,  when  in  The 
Godless  Comedy  he  gives  expression  to  doubts,  which  he  him- 
self had  perhaps  felt  at  times,  puts  them  on  the  lips  of 
distracted  men  and  women.  The  strongest  outburst  of 
doubt  which  appears  in  Krasinski's  works  is  uttered  in 
a  madhouse.  The  sick  Countess  says :  "  Christ  can  no 
longer  save  us.  He  has  seized  His  cross  with  both  hands 
and  thrown  it  down  into  the  abyss.  Do  you  hear  this 
cross,  which  has  been  the  hope  of  millions,  rebounding  in 
its  fall  from  star  to  star  ?  It  breaks,  it  is  splintered,  and 
with  its  dust  it  obscures  the  universe." 

So  we  also  see  that  the  only  one  of  the  poets  who 
really  believed  in  philosophy,  the  brave  lyrist  Stephan 
Garczynski,  the  war -poet  of  the  revolution  of  1831,  the 
favourite  and  imitator  of  Mickiewicz,  the  writer  who,  as  the 
disciple  of  Hegel,  seems  personally  to  have  separated  him- 
self most  widely  from  the  church  creed,  in  his  principal 
work  Waclaw,  makes  his  hero,  it  is  true,  attack  monks  and 
priests  with  harsh  and  angry  words,  but  still  in  such  a 
way  as  to  leave  religion  undisturbed  by  the  assault.  He 
blames  the  monks  because  they  destroy  the  capacity  for 
thought  and  action  by  their  teaching,  but  he  himself  be- 
lieves and  prays  ;  it  is  in  the  name,  not  of  reason  but 
of  emotion,  that  he  declares  himself  to  have  outgrown 
ecclesiastical  forms. 

Garczynski's  hope  or  wish  as  man  and  poet  was  to 
bring  his  world  of  emotion  into  harmony  with  his  reason,  to 
reconcile  the  kingdom  of  the  heart  with  that  of  the  mind. 
The  fourth  canto  of  his  IVaclaw,  entitled  Science,  shows  that, 


POLISH    CATHOLICISM  251 

unlike  the  German  teacher,  whose  disciple  he  was,  he  did 
not  see  salvation  and  the  highest  life  in  thought  and  its 
development  in  science.  The  reaction  from  theory  to 
practice,  the  enthusiasm  which  leads  from  contemplation 
to  action,  seem  to  him  to  comprise  the  complete  truth  of 
human  life.  According  to  his  conception,  only  in  the 
contest  for  practical  ideals  does  the  opposition  between 
emotion  and  reason  cease  to  be  a  strife.  And  the  personal 
preference  of  the  poet,  as  it  appears  from  the  poem  and 
as  was  to  be  expected,  lay  not  on  the  side  of  rational 
understanding  but  on  that  of  enthusiasm. 

Finally,  we  note  the  same  trait  in  Slowacki,  even  when 
in  Beniowski  he  makes  his  great  and  passionate  onslaught 
upon  the  Jesuits.  Here  he  goes  so  far  as  to  prefer  a  father- 
land without  a  future  to  a  fatherland  under  the  guardian- 
ship of  the  Jesuits.  He  overwhelms  Rome,  nay,  even  the 
Pope  with  taunts,  but  he  is  so  far  from  calling  Christianity 
itself  in  question  that  he  cries  to  Poland,  The  Cross,  that  t's 
thy  Pope. 

No  outburst  could  be  more  significant  of  the  emotional 
life  of  those  days.  In  the  revolt  of  1831,  the  Polish  priest, 
crucifix  in  hand,  marched  at  the  head  of  the  troops,  and 
was  in  reality  the  power  which  attached  the  common  people 
to  the  cause  of  independence.  But  this  Catholicism  was 
not  that  of  Rome.  For  when  in  the  same  year  languishing 
Poland,  praying  for  help,  stretched  out  her  hands  to  the 
Pope,  he  referred  the  Poles  to  the  Tzar,  demanded  obedience 
and  submission,  and  stamped  the  rising  as  rebellion.  Again 
there  was  no  opposition  from  the  Pope,  when  in  1833  the 
forced  conversion  of  the  "  United "  communities  who  had 
joined  the  Catholic  Church  took  place.  Dragoonades  of 
Cossacks  were  employed  on  the  Russian  side  ;  they  sur- 
rounded the  villages  and  knouted  the  priests.  Then  the 
Russian  pope,  with  his  whip  in  his  hand,  held  a  review  of 
his  new  parishioners,  and  in  military  colonies  the  stubborn 
were  put  to  death  as  rebellious  soldiers.  It  was  officially 
stated  on  the  Russian  side,  as  regards  this  amalgamation  of 
the  united  congregations  with  the  Greek  Church,  that  it  was 
to  be  looked  upon  as  a  "happy  union,  which  had  cost  no 


252  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

tears !  Only  gentleness  and  persuasion  have  been  used." 
And  the  Pope,  the  one  sovereign  whose  duty  it  was  to  do 
his  utmost  for  Poland,  looked  on  without  protest.  We 
can  understand  how  Slowacki,  in  1841,  could  at  once 
express  his  aversion  for  the  Pope  and  his  confidence  in 
Church  and  Cross. 

Nevertheless  it  is  very  suggestive  that,  at  least  until  the 
last,  when  he  was  enthralled  by  Towianski,  he  was  -  scep- 
tical and  wavering  in  his  faith.  The  preface  to  Lambro,  with 
its  attack  upon  the  poets  of  the  religious  school  and  its 
keen  sense  of  the  false  and  artificial  in  the  theories  of 
Friedrich  Schlegel,  is  a  proof  of  this.  Neither  is  it  without 
significance,  that  in  the  tragedy  of  his  youth,  Mendog,  as 
well  as  in  his  poem  The  Monk,  the  conversion  from  paganism 
or  Mohammedanism  to  Christianity,  whether  from  calcula- 
tion or  belief,  is  represented  as  bringing  misfortune,  calling 
forth  the  execration  and  hatred  of  the  nearest  relatives.  In 
any  case,  this  is  especially  peculiar  to  Polish  Romanticism, 
that  the  political  defection  resulting  from  the  abandon- 
ment of  the  old  customs  of  the  nation  or  the  community, 
is  described  as  so  unpardonable  that  no  rising  to  a  more 
lofty  religious  conception  of  life  can  atone  therefor. 


VI 

THE  TWO  PRINCIPAL  THEMES  OF  THE  LEADING  POETS  MICKIE- 
WICZ,  SLOWACKI  AND  KRASINSKI ;  THE  FIRST  TWO,  THE 
POETS  OF  VENGEANCE,  KRASINSKI,  THE  POET  OF  LOVE 

Among  the  romantic  poets  of  Poland  there  are  three  whose 
names  are  written  in  letters  of  fire :  Adam  Mickiewicz, 
Julius  Slowacki,  Zygmunt  Krasinski. 

If  we  glance  over  the  collected  works  of  these  three 
great  romanticists,  we  shall  find  them  dwelling  especially  on 
two  themes :  they  depict  horrors  and  they  sing  of  hope. 

In  other  words,  a  double  current  flows  through  the 
Polish  poetry  of  the  years  1820- 1850;  it  describes  suffer- 
ings which  lead  to  thoughts  of  revenge,  and  sufferings 
which  tend  to  produce  spiritual  development  and  purifi- 
cation. And,  whereas  in  other  respects  we  must  generally 
put  Mickiewicz  by  himself  on  one  side,  Slowacki  and 
Krasinski  as  two  united  friends  on  the  other,  here  it  is 
Mickiewicz  and  Slowacki  who  come  nearest  each  other 
in  spirit,  who  willingly  and  frequently  occupy  themselves 
with  thoughts  of  vengeance,  while  Krasinski  stands  opposed 
to  them  as  the  advocate  of  universal  brotherhood. 

The  inclination  to  that  which  is  tragical  and  heart- 
rending is  common  to  all  the  poets  ;  they  either  hasten 
towards  a  bloody  catastrophe  like  Mickiewicz  in  Gracyna, 
Slowacki  in  Hugo,  or  the  whole  poem  is  taken  up  with 
scenes  of  destruction. 

Julius  Slowacki,  born  in  1809  at  Krzemieniec,  the  son  of 
a  professor  of  the  history  of  literature,  lost  his  father  while 
he  was  a  little  child,  but  through  his  whole  life  maintained 
the  tenderest  and  most  confidential  relations  with  his  mother, 
who  was  soon  married  a  second  time  to  the  Professor  Beku 
of  Wilna,  who  was  assailed  in  Mickiewicz's  Dziady.  Spoiled 
by  the  daughters  of   his  stepfather,   loved  by   his   mother, 

853 


254  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

the  boy  grew  up  in  a  life  of  fancy,  which  resulted  in  an 
exclusively  poetic  bias  and  an  all-absorbing  artistic  ambition 
which  became  the  stimulus  and  spur  of  his  life.  He  be- 
came the  typical  romanticist,  who  took  it  for  granted  that 
a  romantic  life  was  the  true  condition  for  the  production 
of  genuine  poetry,  and  who  never  wasted  time  or  thoughts 
on  giving  his  planless  career  a  material  foundation  of 
work  or  effort.  All  deference  to  the  useful  was  hateful 
to  him. 

His  strong  imagination  was,  in  its  essence,  not  so  much 
creative  as  musical,  picturesque,  and  decorative.  In  fact,  his 
talent  was  a  great  gift  of  language.  He  impresses  by  the 
melody  of  his  verse  and  his  wealth  of  imagery. 

He  was  educated  at  the  University  of  Wilna,  which  at 
that  time  could  offer  no  further  nourishment  to  his  mind  ; 
it  was  already  laid  waste  by  reaction.  As  compensation 
he  imbibed  the  exalted  patriotism  of  the  period,  and  all  the 
ecstatic  sentiments  of  the  romantic  frame  of  mind.  Byron 
laid  hold  upon  him  as  upon  so  many  other  poets,  and 
nowhere  did  the  English  poet  come  upon  a  better  prepared  or 
more  congenial  spirit.  Byron's  way  of  thought  and  Byron's 
desperate  characters  became  almost  immediately  his  own. 
He  too,  as  a  youth,  experienced  an  unhappy  love  for  a  young 
girl  (a  daughter  of  Andreas  Sniadecki),  a  cultured  maiden  a 
good  deal  older  than  himself,  who  would  not  listen  to  the 
story  of  his  flame,  and  on  this  account  he  suffered  his  first 
infernal  pangs  of  wounded  pride.  His  stepfather  died. 
Slowacki  in  1829  entered  the  office  of  the  Polish  Ministry 
of  Finance  in  Warsaw  as  clerk,  when  the  revolt  broke  out 
and  so  took  possession  of  him  that  he  wrote  several  lyrical 
poems  in  the  revolutionary  spirit.  It  seems  that  his  enthu- 
siasm was  speedily  cooled,  and  in  the  year  1831  we  find 
him  suddenly  leaving  Poland  under  circumstances  which 
made  it  impossible  that  he  should  ever  return.  He  travelled 
to  foreign  countries  with  a  passport  from  the  revolutionary 
government  ;  at  Dresden  he  was  commissioned  to  carry 
despatches  to  London,  and  journeyed  from  London  to  Paris, 
where  in  the  following  year  he  printed  his  first  volume  of 
poems,  containing  dramas  and  narratives  in  the  Byronic  style. 


MICKIEWICZ   AND    SLOWACKI  255 

Mickiewicz  also  soon  came  to  Paris.     He  was  already 
widely  celebrated,  and  Slowacki,  a  beginner,  consumed  with 
an  unsatisfied  ambition,   full  of    self-esteem    and  thirst    for 
recognition,  regarded  his  great  rival  with  mingled  feelings. 
His  first  poems  did  not  cause  any  great  sensation,  yet  some 
lovers   of    Polish   literature  after  reading  his   drama,   Mary 
Stuart,  recognised  in  him  certain  qualities  lacking  in  Mickie- 
wicz.     Half  in   doubt   and    half    inclined    to    overestimate 
himself,    he    burned    to    hear    the    opinion    of    Mickiewicz. 
In  the  preface  to  the  third  volume  of  his  poems  he  wrote  ; 
"  Neither  encouraged  by  praise,  nor  disheartened  by  criticism, 
I  throw  this  third  volume  down  into  the  silent  abyss  which 
has  swallowed  the  first  two."     His  pride  prevented  him  from 
seeking   Mickiewicz.      But   common   friends   brought    them 
together,  and  then  followed  a  reciprocal  exchange  of  civili- 
ties   and    compliments.       Soon    after    Slowacki    became    a 
member    of   the    Polish   literary   society   of  which    Mickie- 
wicz was  president.     Their  pleasant  relations  were  neverthe- 
less   soon    disturbed.      Acquaintances  carried  to    Slowacki 
Mickiewicz's  dictum  that  his  poetry  resembled  a  wonderful 
temple,   but   that  there  was  no  God  in   it.      And   to    Slo- 
wacki everything  about  Mickiewicz  soon  became  disgusting, 
"  from  his  crumpled  shirt  to  his  papistry."     He  even  denied 
that  Mickiewicz  had  any  poetic  ability.     Then  the  third  part 
of  Dziady  appeared,  in  which  the  author  rises  higher  than 
ever  before,  but  in  which,   unfortunately,   Slowacki's  step- 
father Beku,  whose  memory  was  dear  to  him  and  precious 
to  his  mother,  was  represented  as  Nowosilcow's  lickspittle, 
struck    by    lightning    as    a    punishment    for    his    baseness. 
From  this  time  forth  Slowacki  hated  Mickiewicz.     He  even 
thought   of    challenging    him.      "  O    mother  ! "    he    writes, 
"  there   is  nothing  left  for  me  but  to  encompass  thee  with 
such   an  effulgence  of  honours   that  the   arrows   of  others 
cannot  strike  thee.     God  has  inspired  me.       It  will  be  an 
equal  fight  with  Adam." 

In  the  first  as  in  the  later  poems  which  he  publishes, 
his  poetry  shows  a  basis  of  agony,  a  frame  of  mind  appa- 
rently induced  by  a  vision  of  annihilation. 

Naturally,  with  him  as  with  other  poets  his  mood  depends 


256  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

mainly  upon  the  harmony  which  exists  between  an  artist 
and  his  public.  Wherever  such  a  sombre  seriousness  has 
mastered  all  minds  as  that  which  fell  upon  the  Poles  after 
the  unsuccessful  revolution,  a  poet  simply  to  be  heard,  in 
order  not  to  be  pushed  aside  as  a  buffoon  who  misunder- 
stands the  common  temper,  must  necessarily  in  his  art 
reflect  suffering,  discontent,  wrath  at  terrestrial  or  celestial 
injustice,  and  depict  numberless  unsuccessful  attempts  to 
prevent  wrong,  or  at  least  to  avenge  outraged  right.  He 
does  it  because  generally  he  is  subject  to  the  same  influences 
as  his  people,  receiving  all  impressions  far  more  keenly 
and  sympathetically. 

This  disposition  appears  in  its  most  abstract  form  in  such 
works  as  Slowacki's  The  Plague  in  the  Desert,  which  is  justly 
celebrated  as  a  tragic  description  of  a  calamity  recalling  that 
of  Niobe.  In  1835  Slowacki  made  a  journey  from  Paris 
to  Italy  by  way  of  Marseilles,  later  a  journey  from  Naples 
to  the  East,  which  took  him  to  Greece,  Egypt,  Nubia, 
Syria,  and  from  which,  in  1837,  he  returned  to  Italy  by 
way  of  Cyprus.  On  the  way  to  Syria,  at  El  Arish,  he  was 
compelled  to  lie  in  quarantine  in  the  middle  of  the  desert. 
To  this  sojourn  was  due  the  poem  of  the  plague-stricken 
family  of  El  Arish,  in  which  an  Arab  tells  in  simple,  eloquent 
words  how  he  has  seen  his  four  sons,  three  daughters,  and 
his  wife  torn  away  from  him  by  the  plague  one  after  the 
other.  This  narrative,  which,  in  contrast  to  several  others 
by  the  author,  has  not  a  line  too  many,  but  is  characterised 
by  an  antique  severity  and  Biblical  grandeur,  has  obtained 
such  high  recognition,  not  only  because  of  its  artistic  ex- 
cellence, but  because  of  its  harmony  with  the  melancholy  of 
its  readers.  More  than  one  found  the  picture  of  his  own 
trials  and  losses  in  the  poem.  With  a  vague  feeling  that 
there  was  a  certain  bond,  a  certain  point  of  union  between 
the  subject  and  the  reader,  commentators  have  endeavoured 
to  give  a  symbolical  explanation  of  the  episode,  seeing 
allusions  to  the  loss  of  their  fatherland,  and  their  grief 
thereat,  only  to  be  arrived  at  by  the  most  far-fetched  inter- 
pretations. The  truth  is  that  without  any  symbolism 
whatever,  the  reader  might  well  see,  in  the  family  visited 


CRUELTY    A    POETIC    THEME  257 

by  the  plague,  a  group  of  beings  whose  fate  was  akin  to 
his  own. 

Slowacki's  Arab  is  a  poem  of  the  same  character.  It 
depicts  the  abstract  mania  for  annihilation,  the  Satanic  desire 
to  spread  death  and  destruction,  and  destroy  the  joy  of  life, 
wherever  it  is  found.  The  being,  who  from  an  ambush  shot 
the  arrows  of  the  plague  against  the  unfortunate  Arab  father 
and  his  children,  might  be  supposed  to  have  such  thoughts. 

Nevertheless  there  is  more  here  than  the  mere  poetry 
of  suffering.  The  poetry  of  cruelty  is  combined  with  it,  a 
theme  which  recurs  again  and  again.  Slowacki  especially 
revels  in  the  description  of  horrible  cruelty.  It  came  near 
home.  For  these  poets  had  experienced  great  cruelty  in 
their  lives,  and  fancy  is  receptive  above  all  things  ;  it 
gives  out  the  pictures  with  which  it  has  been  filled.  The 
cruelties  with  which  all  Slowacki's  dramas  and  most  of  his 
narratives  swarm,  betray  how  deep  an  impression  the  tortures 
he  experienced  in  his  life,  or  had  heard  or  read  about,  made 
upon  his  mind.  Several  of  the  fiercest  traits  of  cruelty  in 
his  poems  are  founded  on  actual  historical  incidents.  Ivan 
the  Terrible,  like  the  leading  character  in  Krdl  Duck,  on  one 
occasion  nailed  the  foot  of  a  messenger  to  the  ground  with 
his  sword,  without  diverting  him  from  the  delivery  of  his 
message,  just  as  happened  with  the  old  bard  in  the  poem. 
And  the  prototype  of  many  such  traits  in  Slowacki  must  be 
sought  for  in  contemporary  events,  which  made  his  blood 
boil  and  inflamed  his  fancy. 

All  the  poets  dwell  insistently  on  prison  scenes,  scenes 
of  banishment,  and  harSh  punishments.  Descriptions  of 
sufferings,  long  speeches  that  narrate  and  describe  cruelties, 
take  up  nearly  the  whole  of  the  third  part  of  Mickiewicz's 
Dzt'ady,  in  which  the  author  has  delved  so  deeply  into  his 
own  personal  experiences  and  fearlessly  brought  upon  the 
stage  contemporaries  under  their  real  names.  He  has  never 
elsewhere  achieved  such  scorching  realism  of  effect.  And 
strangely  enough  he  thought  that  this  was  genuine  Roman- 
ticism. In  his  poem,  Romanticism,  he  began  by  rejecting 
dead  truths :  **  If  you  would  see  wonders  full  of  the  truth  of 
life,"  he  says,  "  have  a  heart  and  look  into  hearts."     Shortly 

R 


258  IMPRESSIONS   OP^    POLAND 

after  he  defined  the  essence  of  Romanticism  thus  :  "When  the 
romanticists  write  they  have  the  naked  truth  before  them, 
while  the  classicists  are  content  with  marionettes  ; "  here  he 
proclaims  distinctly  the  right  of  the  poet  to  seek  the  naked 
truth  in  his  nearest  environment,  however  lowly  and  simple 
it  may  seem  to  be.  Finally,  he  upholds  the  same  doctrine 
distinctly  in  this  poem,  in  which  after  the  manner  of  Dante, 
he  praises  and  condemns  his  contemporaries  without  respect 
of  persons. 

The  poet  describes  how  a  young  gentleman  relates  the 
story  of  Chikowski  in  a  drawing-room  in  Warsaw.  He,  one 
of  the  handsomest,  gayest  and  most  spirited  young  men  of 
Poland,  recently  married  and  happy,  disappeared  one  day 
from  his  home.  It  was  said  that  he  had  committed  suicide, 
no  one  understood  why.  The  police  caused  it  to  be  rumoured 
that  his  cloak  had  been  found  by  the  Vistula.  Years  passed 
by  ;  one  gloomy  and  rainy  evening  some  prisoners  were 
brought  from  the  Carmelite  monastery  to  the  Belvedere.  An 
intrepid  young  man  in  the  crowd  of  spectators  shouted  out : 
"  Prisoners,  who  are  you  ? "  and  among  a  hundred  names 
the  name  of  Chikowski  was  shouted  back  in  answer.  His 
wife  was  informed,  and  she  sent  petition  after  petition  to 
the  government,  but  could  learn  nothing.  Reports  floated 
about  Warsaw  during  the  three  following  years,  during 
which  no  news  of  him  was  received,  that  he  was  being 
tortured,  but  that  he  would  confess  nothing,  that  he  was 
kept  awake  at  nights,  that  for  whole  months  he  had  salt 
herring  to  eat  without  any  water  to  drink,  that  he  was  given 
opium  to  frighten  him  with  visions  and  spectres,  that  he  was 
tickled  under  his  arms  and  on  the  soles  of  his  feet,  and 
more — until  his  name  was  forgotten  among  the  names  of 
the  other  persons  who  had  disappeared.  Then  one  night 
there  was  a  ringing  at  the  door  of  his  wife's  house  ;  outside 
stood  an  officer,  a  gendarme,  and  a  prisoner  whom  they 
delivered,  demanding  a  receipt.  They  threatened  him  with 
uplifted  finger  :  "  If  you  dare  to  talk  ! "  and  went  away.  He 
was  changed,  had  become  stout,  but  with  the  unhealthy  fat 
of  the  prisoner.  The  wrinkles  of  half  a  century  were  on  his 
forehead.     He  did  not  seem  to  recognise  his  old  friends  who 


THE    STORY   OF    CHIKOWSKI  259 

came  to  greet  him,  but  looked  at  them  with  an  absent 
gaze.  "  All  that  he  had  suffered  in  the  days  when  he  was 
tortured,  and  all  that  he  had  thought  in  the  nights  when  he 
lay  awake,  was  revealed  by  his  eye  in  a  second.  This  eye 
was  frightful  to  look  at,  it  was  like  the  panes  of  the  grated 
windows  of  a  prison,  the  colour  of  which  is  greyish  like  a 
spider's  web,  but  which,  seen  from  the  side,  has  rainbow 
reflections  and  in  which  we  discern  a  bloody  rust,  mirrored 
lights  and  dark  spots.  They  have  lost  their  transparency,  but 
their  surface  betrays  that  they  have  long  been  exposed  to 
dampness,  neglect,  dust  and  darkness."  When  he  was  asked 
a  question,  imagining  himself  still  in  prison,  he  replied,  "  I 
know  nothing,  I  know  nothing." 

A  young  lady  (the  feminine  Providence  of  the  emigrants, 
Claudia  Potocka)  asks :  "  Why  do  you  not  treat  such  sub- 
jects in  your  poems  ?  "  A  count  answers  :  "  Old  Niemce- 
wicz  may  use  them  in  his  memoirs."  A  man  of  letters 
exclaims:  "That  is  a  frightful  story."  Another,  "Tragic, 
on  my  word."  A  third  finally  says :  "  We  listen  to  such 
things,  but  who  would  read  them  ?  It  is  outrageous  io 
bring  eye-witnesses  upon  the  stage  instead  of  mythical 
persons.  And  then  besides  there  is  an  inviolable  and  holy 
rule  of  art.  It  is  that  poets  must  not  treat  of  an  incident 
till  .  .  .  till.  ..."  A  young  man  :  "  How  many  years  are 
we  to  wait  till  a  fresh  fact  has  become  as  dry  as  tobacco 
and  as  honey — sweet  as  a  fig  ?  "  The  first :  "  There  are  no 
fixed  rules."  The  second :  "  A  thousand  or  two  thousand 
years.  Besides,  you  could  not  say  in  a  poem  that  he  was  fed  on  salt 
herring''  An  impression  may  be  obtained  from  this  quota- 
tion of  the  force  and  clearness  with  which  sufferings  are 
depicted  here. 

Or  read  Sobolewski's  comment  on  the  twenty  kibitkas 
(sleighs)  full  of  young  students  and  schoolboys  of  Samo- 
gitien,  which  he  saw  drive  away  to  Siberia  to  the  beating  of 
drums,  while  the  crowd  stood  like  a  wall  before  the  prison 
behind  guards  with  fixed  bayonets.  Every  feature  here  is 
full  of  life.  Take  for  example  these  lines  :  "  Poor  children, 
you  all  have  shaved  heads  like  recruits,  and  fetters  on 
your    feet.     The   youngest,  who  was    only    ten    years    old, 


26o  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

complained  he  could  not  lift  his  chains,  and  showed  his  bare 
and  bleeding  feet.  The  police  officer  asked  what  he  com- 
plained of,  and  being  a  humane  person,  himself  examined  his 
chains.  '  Ten  pounds  I  that  is  according  to  the  regulation,' 
he  said.  Then  Janczewski  was  brought  out  .  .  .  torture 
had  made  ugly,  thin,  and  dark,  him  who  a  year  ago  had 
been  the  gayest  and  handsomest  of  them  all.  He  looked 
down  from  his  kibitka  like  the  Tzar  from  his  pedestal  of 
rock.  His  glance  was  proud,  dry,  clear  ;  he  seemed  to 
wish  to  console  his  comrades,  and  his  smile  seemed  to 
say  to  the  assembled  multitude :  '  See  how  little  mis- 
fortune touches  me  1 '  .  .  .  He  noticed  that  people  wept 
when  they  beheld  his  chains,  so  he  lifted  them  up  in  the 
air  and  shook  them  to  show  that  they  were  not  too  heavy 
for  him.  The  kibitka  set  off  at  a  gallop,  he  waved  his 
hat,  crying  :  *  No !  it  is  not  all  over  with  Poland  yet  1 '  and 
the  crowd  hid  him  from  my  sight ;  but  for  a  long  time 
his  arm  could  still  be  seen,  raised  up  against  the  heavens 
as  a  background,  and  the  tattered  black  felt  hat  waving 
like  a  banner  of  woe  above  the  smoothly-shaven  young 
head,  the  proud  and  spotless  head  which  from  afar  bore 
witness  to  the  innocence  of  the  victim  and  the  shame  of  the 
executioners." 

Just  as  colour  has  its  complement,  and  the  chord  of  the 
seventh  its  resolution,  so  this  theme  always  arouses  in 
Mickiewicz  and  Slowacki  the  motive  of  vengeance. 

We  can  follow  this  most  clearly  in  the  third  part  of  Dziady 
throughout  the  different  songs  which  the  prisoners  sing. 

First  comes  Jankowski's  song :  "  In  order  that  I  may 
become  a  believer,  I  must  first  see  Jesus  and  Mary  chastise 
the  Tzar  who  defiles  my  country.  So  long  as  the  Tzar  lives, 
and  Nowosilcow  drinks,  and  I  myself  go  in  fear  of  Siberia, 
so  long  must  not  any  one  expect  me  to  say  :  Jesus!  Mary  ! " 

Then  follow  Kalakowski's  ironical  verses  :  "  What  does 
it  matter  if  I  must  suffer  banishment,  hard  labour,  chains, 
if  only  as  a  faithful  subject  I  am  allowed  to  labour  for  my 
Tzar ! — when  in  the  mines  I  have  to  hammer  diligently 
and  skilfully,  I  say  to  myself :  This  grey  iron  will  some 
day  become   an    axe  for   the   Tzar. — If  I  get   out   of   the 


THE  POETRY  OF  VENGEANCE      261 

house  of  correction,  and  take  a  young  Tartar  woman  to 
wife,  I  say  to  her :  '  Bear  us  a  Pahlen  for  the  Tzar ! 
[Pahlen,  Paul  I.'s  murderer.] — If  they  send  me  out  as  a 
colonist,  and  I  become  hetman  or  boyar,  then  I  will  sow 
my  field  with  hemp,  only  hemp,  for  the  Tzar. — Of  hemp 
a  halter  is  made,  a  grey  halter,  which  can  be  interwoven 
with  silver  ;  perhaps  an  Orloff  may  throw  such  a  scarf 
around  the  neck  of  the  Tzar."  [Orloff,  murderer  of 
Peter  III.] 

Finally  Conrad  sings  :  "  My  spirit  was  silenced,  my  song 
lay  in  the  grave,  but  my  genius  smelled  blood,  and  with  a 
shriek  it  rises  like  a  vampire,  eager  for  blood.  It  thirsts  for 
blood,  for  blood.  Yea,  vengeance,  vengeance  !  Vengeance 
on  our  executioners  !  Vengeance,  if  God  will,  and  whether 
God  wills  or  not !  " 

We  see  that  the  poetry  of  vengeance  has  its  germ  here. 
If  God  will  not  avenge  them,  then  the  Poles  must  avenge 
themselves. 

Vengeance  as  here  pictured  almost  always  wears  a  mask, 
lurks  behind  dissimulation,  strikes  unexpectedly,  dealing  a 
blow  long  prepared.  The  fundamental  thought  is  always 
that  he  who  is  persecuted  by  God  and  men  is  entitled 
to  use  all  means,  and  that  the  salvation  of  the  fatherland 
is  the  supreme  law.  Thus  Gracyna  is  wholly  right  when 
in  disobedience  to  her  husband  and  lord  she  follows  the 
higher  call  to  prevent  any  false  alliance  with  the  hereditary 
enemy.  And  Wallenrod  contains  the  same  idea  in  another 
form  :  here  it  is  not  a  false  alliance  but  a  feigned  one  I 
Against  the  foreign  enemy  hypocrisy  and  treachery  are 
legitimate  weapons.  Thus  Wallenrod  as  the  Master  of 
the  Order  prolongs  the  campaign  against  the  Lithuanians 
until  thousands  of  Germans  perish.  When  Lithuania  is 
freed,  all  lost  for  the  Order,  and  he  himself  condemned 
to  death  by  the  secret  council  of  the  Knights,  with  proud 
contempt  he  throws  aside  the  mask  of  hypocrisy,  tramples 
the  cross  of  the  Grand  Master  under  foot,  and  jubilantly 
confesses  the  sins  of  his  life. 

It  was  overlooked  by  Mickiewicz  himself,  though  not  by 
his  critical  rival  Slowacki,  that  in  the  doctrine  which  Wallenrod 


262  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

proclaims,  a  justification  might  be  found  for  every  apostasy. 
At  any  rate,  misunderstanding  and  abuse  did  not  frighten 
him.  The  ballad  Alpujarras,  which  is  sung  at  the  great 
banquet,  certainly  gives  the  clearest  expression  to  his  train 
of  thought.  Almansor,  Prince  of  the  Moors,  is  forced  to 
surrender  Granada,  because  the  plague  is  raging  in  the  city  ; 
he  makes  his  way  through  and  flies.  The  Spaniards  are 
sitting  at  a  drinking  bout,  when  the  guard  announces  that 
a  stranger  begs  admission  for  an  important  message  which 
he  brings.  He  is  an  Arab.  "  Spaniards,"  he  cries  with 
humble  mien  ;  "  your  God  will  I  serve,  your  prophet  will  I 
believe  in,  your  vassal  will  I  be."  They  recognise  Almansor. 
The  chief  presses  him  to  his  heart  and  gives  him  the 
brotherly  kiss  ;  all  the  leaders  embrace  him,  one  after  the 
other.  Then  he  suddenly  becomes  faint,  falls  to  the  ground, 
twists  his  turban,  and  exclaims  triumphantly,  "  I  am  sick  of 
the  plague  ! "  With  his  pretended  submission  he  has  brought 
the  plague  to  the  Spaniards  in  his  brotherly  kiss. 

So  we  also  find  Slowacki  again  and  again  singing  of 
the  curse,  which  overtakes  treachery  practised  towards 
fellow-countrymen — Jan  Bielecki,  Waclaw  (the  same  Felix 
Potocki  who  appears  in  Malczewski's  Marya  and  afterwards 
in  Slowacki's  Horsztynski) — and,  varied  again  and  again,  a 
glorification  of  deceit  or  surprises  practised  against  the 
enemy  {Lambro,  Kordjan).  Lanibro  is  the  story  of  a  Greek, 
who  becomes  a  brigand  and  renegade  in  order  the  more 
safely  to  strike  at  the  Turkish  perpetrators  of  violence 
— an  inhuman  figure,  the  model  for  which  is  hardly  to  be 
found  in  life,  but  in  the  Oriental  poems  of  Byron.  Kord- 
jan is  a  Pole,  fantastical  and  nervous,  far  too  refined  and 
delicate  for  the  bloody  task  he  assumes,  an  attempt  to 
kill  the  Tzar  Nicholas — a  character  who,  although  inspired 
by  Mickiewicz,  is  built  up  on  a  basis  of  personal  observation. 
The  drama  as  well  as  the  poem  both  deal  solely  with  the 
thought  of  vengeance. 

It  is  against  this  fundamental  idea  that  Zygmunt 
Krasinski  directed  his  most  important  works.  His  birth 
and  his  family  relations  brought  him  to  evolve  a  less 
simple  doctrine  from  the  spectacle  of  human  suffering. 


KRASINSKI'S    YOUTH  263 

Zygmunt  Krasinski  was  born  in  Paris  in  18 12  of  Polish 
parents,  who  belonged  to  the  highest  aristocracy.  His 
father  entered  Napoleon's  army  as  a  young  man,  Served 
till  he  became  imperial  adjutant,  and  after  Napoleon's  abdica- 
tion brought  back  the  Polish  regiments  as  a  general.  He 
became  a  senator  and  Woyewode,  opened  a  grand  salon  for 
scientists  and  artists  in  Warsaw,  in  which  classical  thought 
had  one  of  its  strongholds,  and  soon  appeared  as  one  of  the 
most  faithful  servants  of  Alexander  and  Nicholas.  He  made 
himself  conspicuous  in  a  most  sinister  manner  in  1828 
as  a  member  of  the  court  of  the  Diet  established  to  try 
political  offenders  in  Poland,  he  alone  voting  for  severe 
sentences  on  the  conspirators.  Just  as  he  was  brave  in 
battle,  so  he  showed  himself  timid,  easily  flattered  and 
tempted  by  the  Russian  Government  in  time  of  peace. 

This  high  public  position  of  the  father — he  succeeded 
Paskiewicz  as  Governor  in  1856 — was  a  potent  factor  in  the 
son's  life.  In  spite  of  his  absolute  disagreement  with  his 
father  he  felt  himself  bound  to  him  by  inviolable  piety, 
and  thus  deprived  of  all  freedom,  not  only  in  his  personal 
relations  but  in  his  literary  career. 

When  only  sixteen  years  old,  he  endured  an  insult  for 
his  father's  sake  which  he  could  never  forget.  When  in 
1829  one  of  the  popular  men  of  Poland,  Bielinski,  the 
President  of  the  Court,  was  buried,  all  the  students  of  the 
University  of  Warsaw  attended  the  ceremonies  in  a  body, 
and  left  the  lecture  rooms  empty.  By  his  father's  command, 
nevertheless,  Zygmunt  Krasinski  was  obliged  to  go  to  the 
University  as  usual,  on  which  account  his  comrades,  on  the 
next  day,  fell  upon  him  and  turned  him  out.  The  scene 
is  described  in  Krasinski's  Unfinished  Poem :  "  I  see  the  old 
building,  in  whose  halls  a  thousand  of  the  same  age  sit, 
and  the  teachers  speak  from  their  chairs.  I  see  the  stairs 
which  wind  about  like  a  serpent.  Is  it  not  so  ?  I  was  a 
brave  little  fellow,  although  as  yet  not  full  grown  and  not 
strong.  I  came  from  home,  went  proudly  past  them  all, 
knowing  indeed  that  they  hated  me,  but  not  why.  They 
surrounded  me  and  pressed  upon  me  from  all  sides,  and 
shouted :    '  Young   noble !   young  noble  I '    as  if  it  were    a 


264  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

disgrace  to  know  where  my  ancestors  are  buried.  I  seized 
hold  of  the  iron  railing,  but  they  pulled  me  by  my  hands, 
my  feet,  my  cloak.  .  .  .  Then  thou  didst  manifest  thyself 
to  me,  my  good  genius,  saying  :  '  They  are  unjust.  Be  thou 
more  than  just,  forgive  them  and  love  them.'  " 

Fate  had  dedicated  him  to  suffering,  and  he  did  not  see 
in  the  injury  he  had  suffered,  an  invitation  to  play  the  part 
which  the  injustice  of  his  countrymen  and  the  tempta- 
tions of  the  rulers  laid  in  his  way.  Just  as  little  did  it  com- 
mend itself  to  his  refined  and  temperate  nature  to  make 
himself  the  favourite  of  the  mob  by  a  breach  with  his  father. 
Both  as  a  youth  and  as  a  man  he  paid  an  exaggerated  filial 
respect  to  this  father,  who,  as  a  deserter,  was  covered 
with  Russian  honours  and  Polish  curses.  For  his  sake, 
during  his  whole  life,  he  continued  to  be  an  anonymous 
poet,  and  the  consciousness  of  having  a  father  in  the  opposite 
camp  made  it  impossible  for  him  to  proclaim  the  gospel  of 
vengeance  in  his  poems.  He  thus  dared  to  defy  one  of  the 
dogmas  of  his  nation,  and  a  fundamental  doctrine  in  the 
literature  of  the  time,  since  he  proclaimed  the  impotence 
of  hatred  in  a  nation  passionate  by  temperament,  martial 
by  instinct,  and  besides,  so  tortured  and  desperate,  that  all 
the  products  of  its  imaginative  power  hitherto  had  been  not 
only  sombre  as  a  clouded  heaven,  but  traversed  by  the 
lightning  of  vindictiveness.  Touching  the  productions  of 
the  other  poets,  he  says  in  Wallenrod:  "Murder  and  fire, 
that  is  what  you  Waidelots  [Lithuanian  bards]  love  to  sing 
about,  you  leave  honour  and  the  pangs  of  death  to  us. 
From  the  cradle  your  song  winds  itself  like  a  serpent  around 
the  breast  of  the  child,  and  pours  its  poison  into  his  soul  ; 
the  insane  yearning  for  glory  and  the  insane  love  of  country." 
But  none  of  them  had  such  a  feeling  of  responsibility  as 
Krasinski.  He  suffered  terribly  when  he  heard  of  the  cruel 
punishments  inflicted  on  young  students  for  having  circulated 
his  forbidden  poems. 

Krasinski  again  describes  only  sufferings.  In  Irydion 
he  represents  the  suffering  which  a  foreign  rule  actually 
caused,  and  gives  a  picture  of  ancient  Greece  some  hun- 
dreds of  years  after  it  was  conquered  by  Rome.     He  depicts 


KRASINSKI'S    "IRYDION"  265 

the  love  of  the  most  eminent  Greeks  for  Hellas,  as  the  land 
to  which  Europe  owes  all  noble  culture,  the  land  which 
first  taught  her  the  significance  of  political  freedom,  and 
portrays  the  hatred  of  Rome,  the  cruel  and  haughty  master 
of  Greece,  from  whom  her  half  barbaric  culture  was  bor- 
rowed. The  drama  shows  us  the  national  spirit  of  Greece, 
pondering  on  a  great  work  of  revenge,  after  centuries  of 
oppression  and  dishonour,  at  a  time  when  the  terrible  abuse 
of  power  of  Caracalla  and  Heliogabalus  had  excited  the 
minds  of  all  the  better  sort  of  people. 

Irydion  is  the  "  Son  of  Revenge  "  child  of  the  avenger  ; 
he  is  the  son  of  the  great  Greek  Amphilochos,  who  himself 
belonged  to  a  generation  for  which  revenge  did  not  seem 
ripe,  but  who  had  impressed  upon  Irydion  and  his  sister, 
Elsinoe,  his  two  children  by  a  northern  woman,  hatred  of 
Rome.  When  he  blessed  them  while  they  were  sleeping  as 
little  children,  he  said  to  them  ;  "  Remember  to  hate  Rome 
and  avenge  yourselves  ;  thou,  Irydion,  with  fire  and  sword ; 
thou,  Elsinoe,  with  all  a  woman's  shrewdness  and  perfidious 
art." 

And  in  his  palace  in  Rome  Irydion  lives  solely  for  the 
idea  of  revenge,  and  in  its  service  unites  his  charming  sister 
to  the  weak  and  miserable  boy  who  is  the  head  of  the 
State.  Elsinoe  bends  Heliogabalus  like  a  reed,  and  Irydion 
explains  to  the  emperor  that  it  is  not  his  rival,  Alexander 
Severus,  but  the  city  of  Rome  itself  that  is  his  enemy.  He 
should  wage  that  war  against  the  city  which  Nero  began 
with  the  conflagration,  and  then  transfer  the  imperial  throne 
to  Byzantium.  And  Heliogabalus  is  fascinated  by  this 
poetry  of  annihilation  on  a  vast  scale,  which  captivates  him 
as  it  has  captivated  better  men  than  he — Polish  poets,  for 
example. 

Krasinski  justly  felt  that  for  most  of  his  countrymen 
of  that  time  Poland  had  gradually  become  only  a  name, 
which  called  for  vengeance.  He  saw  the  danger  to  the 
nation's  sense  of  right,  which  lay  in  its  having  come  to 
believe  that  everything  was  allowable  as  against  the 
oppressor.  Even  in  the  poem  to  the  Polish  mother,  false- 
hood, hypocrisy,  and  fraud  were  painted  as  virtues.    Thus  no 


266  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

one  had  regarded  it  as  wrong  that  the  hero  of  Ostrolenka, 
General  Bern,  had  professed  Mohammedanism  simply  in 
order  the  better  to  strike  at  Russia  in  the  Turkish  service. 
So  no  one  at  a  later  period  regarded  it  as  wrong  in 
Wielopolski  that,  in  an  open  letter  to  Metternich  after  the 
massacres  in  Galicia,  he  preached  the  merging  of  the  people 
in  Russia,  in  the  hope  that  union  with  the  most  powerful 
enemy  would  procure  vengeance  on  the  two  other  enemies, 
Austria  and  Prussia,  which  a  new  Attila  might  then  crush. 

Krasinski  was  alarmed  at  this  national  feeling,  which 
lived  only  in  hate,  at  this  patriotism,  which  was  even  stronger 
than  death,  but  always  carried  death  in  its  mouth.  He  wrote 
Irydion  to  warn  his  people. 

At  the  last  moment  all  Irydion's  schemes  miscarry, 
because  of  the  distrust  he  arouses  in  the  Christian  bishops. 
Elsinoe  demands  the  death  of  Heliogabalus,  to  avenge 
herself  for  what  she  has  suffered  by  being  his  mistress  ; 
then  she  kills  herself.  Alexander  Severus  conquers,  and 
becomes  emperor.  And  Irydion  would  fain  die,  when  Massi- 
nissa — his  bad  tutelary  genius,  the  Waidelot  of  Walknrod 
on  a  grander  scale,  and  moreover,  a  kind  of  incarnation  of 
the  horror  of  antiquity  for  the  institution  of  Christianity — 
carries  him  away  in  space.  In  the  distance  he  sees  from 
a  height  on  the  coast,  Rome,  "showing  its  marble  in  the 
sun  as  the  tiger  shows  its  white  teeth."  And  a  fear 
comes  upon  him  that  Rome  will  not  be  destroyed  as  his 
mother  had  foretold.  Massinissa  then  informs  him  that  the 
Goths,  it  is  true,  will  trample  Rome  into  ruins,  but  that 
the  Christians  will  then  create  a  new  Rome,  which  will  take 
the  warriors  of  the  north  in  leading  strings,  and  once  more 
rule  all  the  nations  of  the  world. 

Krasinski  wished  to  show  his  people,  in  one  grand 
example,  that  the  mere  thirst  for  vengeance  produces 
nothing  durable,  and  that  hatred  is  unfruitful.  In  addition, 
perhaps,  as  Klaczko  has  keenly  observed,  he  wished  to  hint 
that  the  enemy  may  find  a  new  lease  of  life,  where  it  is  least 
to  be  expected,  as  Rome  found  the  basis  of  its  second  period 
of  greatness  in  Christianity,  the  successors  of  the  Teutonic 
Order  a  like  fundamental  force  in  the  Reformation  ;  it  may 


KRASINSKI'S    ETHICS  267 

be  Russia  will  find  it  in  the  civilisation  of  our  century,  the 
very  force  which  would  seem  to  be  a  threat  against  Russia. 

The  epilogue  transports  us  to  the  papal  Rome  of  1830. 
Irydion  wanders  with  Massinissa  over  the  ruins  of  old  Rome, 
and  among  those  of  its  later  splendour.  The  ruling  power 
is  represented  by  two  old  men  in  purple  mantles,  whom  some 
monks  salute,  and  call  princes  of  the  Church.  They  are 
seated  in  a  carriage  with  a  pair  of  old  black  horses,  and  a 
servant  stands  behind  with  a  lantern.  These  are  the  suc- 
cessors of  the  Caesars  !  says  Massinissa.  Irydion  no  longer 
hates  Christianity,  whose  fate  now  seems  to  him  as  sorrowful 
as  formerly  did  that  of  Greece. 

At  last  Irydion  hears  a  voice,  which  calls  to  him:  "Go 
north,  in  the  name  of  Christ,  and  stop  first  in  the  land  of 
graves  and  crosses.  Thou  mayst  know  it  by  the  silence  of  its 
warriors,  and  the  melancholy  of  its  little  children.  Thou 
mayst  know  it  by  the  huts  of  its  poor,  destroyed  by  fire,  and 
the  palaces  of  its  exiles,  which  have  been  laid  waste.  Go 
there  and  dwell  among  the  new  brethren  whom  I  give  to 
thee.  This  shall  be  thy  second  trial.  For  the  second  time 
thou  shalt  see  the  object  of  thy  love  pierced  through,  and  in 
the  death  struggle,  and  the  sufferings  of  thousands  of  souls 
shall  be  contained  in  thy  heart." 

The  moral,  then,  is  this  :  Your  task  in  the  land  of  graves 
and  crosses,  as  in  the  land  of  temples  and  cypresses,  is  not 
the  making  war  upon  your  enemy  by  all  means,  but  the 
conquering  him  by  intellectual  and  moral  superiority. 
Krasinski's  doctrine,  proclaimed  again  and  again,  js  this : 
Not  to  expect  better  times  from  the  evil  we  may  wish  to  inflict 
upon  our  enemies,  but  from  the  good  we  develop  in  our 
own  minds.  What  he  fears  is  the  poison  which  thraldom 
engenders  and  secretes  in  the  soul.  To  him,  Siberia,  the 
knout,  and  tortures,  are  less  terrible  than  to  see  the  national 
spirit  poisoned  in  the  thirst  for  vengeance. 

Consequently  we  have  this  radical  contrast : — 

On  the  one  hand,  the  recklessness  of  despair,  which  sanc- 
tions everything,  if  it  only  strikes  the  tyrant :  the  act  of 
Gracyna,  the  fraud  and  treachery  of  Wallenrod,  the  plague- 
kiss  of  Almansor,  Kordjan's  attempt  at  murder. 


268  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

On  the  other,  when  Paskiewicz  is  ruler  in  Warsaw,  a 
voice  which  warns  against  unproductive  hatred,  and  which, 
when  it  is  answered  with  derision  on  account  of  its  sup- 
posed cowardice,  is  content  again  and  again  to  point  at 
efforts  towards  a  higher  culture,  by  which  to  echpse,  and 
thus  to  conquer  the  enemy  through  intellectual  development 
and  purification. 

There  are  two  great  leading  principles  in  the  battle  of 
life.  The  one  is  earthly,  and  the  other  spiritual.  The  former 
has  the  more  immediate  results  of  an  act  in  view,  the  latter 
the  more  remote.  The  former  is  to  this  effect :  Since  life  is 
full  of  horrors,  then  make  thine  enemy  harmless  by  annihilat- 
ing him.  For  this,  all  means  are  lawful.  The  other  is  to 
this  effect :  Since  life  is  full  of  horrors,  diminish  their  num- 
ber by  returning  hate  with  love  !  Love  thine  enemy,  disarm 
him  by  a  self-esteem,  which  only  unfolds  itself  in  love,  and 
which,  stronger  than  death,  everywhere  awakens  life !  The 
former  is  Conrad's  and  Kordjan's,  the  latter  is  the  principle 
of  the  great  Anonymus.  Perhaps  they  are  both  equally 
unpractical,  as  between  nation  and  nation.  The  one,  be- 
cause vengeance  continually  calls  forth  vengeance  anew, 
the  other  because  love,  as  the  only  principle,  is  inadequate, 
in  a  world  where  the  gentleness  of  the  lamb  does  not  protect 
it  against  the  teeth  of  the  wolf. 

But  it  is  these  two  principles,  both  equally  romantic, 
which  permeate  the  romantic  literature  of  Poland. 

There  is  also  a  third  unromantic  and  unsentimental  prin- 
ciple ;  it  teaches  neither  to  exterminate  nor  to  love  your 
enemy,  but  to  work  more  and  better  than  he.  The  future 
belongs  neither  to  the  avenger  nor  to  the  apostle,  but  to  him 
who  labours  with  genius. 


VII 

THE  CHARACTER  OF  HAMLET  IN  POLAND  — THE 
TYPE  OF  HAMLET  CONCEIVED  ON  RADICAL 
LINES  BY  SLOWACKI,  AND  ON  CONSERVATIVE 
LINES  BY  KRASINSKI 

There  is  yet  another  variety  of  the  avenger,  with  much 
of  the  type  of  the  prophet  in  it,  which  has  not  yet  been 
touched  upon,  and  which  must  be  treated  apart.  It  is 
that  group  of  figures  in  the  romantic  Hterature  of  Poland 
which  may  be  called  Hamlet  characters.  In  the  literature 
of  the  Renaissance  there  is  this  one  great  type  from  which 
modern  poetry  may  be  dated,  Shakespeare's  Hamlet,  spring- 
ing originally  from  the  English  sense  of  reality  and  the 
scepticism  of  Montaigne.  As  Hamlet  is  the  first  philoso- 
phical drama  of  the  more  modern  times,  so  also  here  for 
the  first  time  the  typical  modern  man  appears  with  his 
keen  sense  of  the  contest  between  ideals  and  surroundings, 
of  the  disproportion  between  strength  and  task,  with  all  his 
variety  of  spiritual  being,  delicate  feeling  and  cruelty,  his 
wit  without  merriment,  his  everlasting  procrastination  and 
furious  impatience. 

Much  of  the  most  modern  of  the  poetry  of  the  nineteenth 
century  derives  from  Hamlet.  In  Germany  Goethe  interprets 
him  in  Wilhelm  Meister,  and  this  remodelled  Hamlet  calls 
Faust  to  mind.  When  Faust  was  transplanted  to  English 
soil,  Byron's  Manfred  springs  up,  a  new,  if  remoter,  heir  of 
Hamlet.  But  in  Germany  the  Byronic  nature  even  assumes 
a  new  and  Hamlet-like  (Yorick-like)  form  in  Heine's  bitter 
and  fantastic  wit,  in  his  hatred  and  caprice  and  intellectual 
superciliousness.  The  generation  to  which  Alfred  de  Musset 
belonged  in  France,  and  which  he  described  in  his  Confessions 
(fun  Enfant  du  Slide,  nervous,  inflammable  as  powder,  with 

its  wings  prematurely  clipped,  without  the  field  for  its  thirst 

369 


270  IMPRESSIONS   OF    POLAND 

for  action,  and  without  energy  in  its  actual  field,  forcibly 
reminds  us  of  the  type.  And  perhaps  the  best  of  Mussefs 
masculine  characters,  Lorenzaccio,  becomes  the  French 
Hamlet,  skilled  in  dissimulation,  languid,  brilliant,  gentle 
with  women,  yet  wounding  them  with  harsh  words,  mor- 
bidly desirous  of  remedying  the  unimportance  and  foolish- 
ness of  his  life  by  a  deed,  and  acting  desperately,  uselessly, 
and  too  late. 

Hamlet,  who  centuries  ago  had  been  young  England, 
and  who  to  Musset  for  a  long  time  was  young  France, 
afterwards  became  the  name  by  which  the  Germany  of 
the  fifties  christened  itself.  "  Hamlet  is  Germany,"  sang 
Freiligrath. 

In  the  development  of  Polish  Romanticism  there  comes 
a  time  when  its  poets  are  inclined  to  say :  Hamlet  is  Poland. 

It  was  the  result  of  kindred  political  circumstances  that 
the  character  of  Hamlet  even  at  this  same  time,  but  still  more 
twenty  years  after,  came  to  dominate  another  Slav  literature, 
the  Russian,  where  we  can  trace  it  from  the  productions  of 
Pushkin  and  Gogol  to  those  of  Gontsharof  and  Tolstoi,  while 
in  Tourgenief's  works  it  really  occupies  the  chief  place.  But 
we  shall  see  that  the  peculiar  point  in  the  Hamlet  conscious- 
ness, the  vocation  of  vengeance,  is  wanting  here,  because  all 
the  emphasis  is  laid  on  the  disagreement  between  reflection 
and  energy  in  general. 

On  the  other  hand,  we  find  marked  traits  of  Hamlet's 
nature  in  all  the  Polish  political  geniuses.  From  their  youth 
up,  they  all  stand  in  his  position.  The  world  is  out  of  joint, 
and  it  is  to  be  set  right  by  their  weak  arms.  High-born  and 
noble-minded  as  they  are,  they  all  feel  like  Hamlet  the  in- 
ward fire  and  outward  impotence  of  their  youth  ;  conceiving 
the  conditions  which  surround  them  as  one  supreme  horror, 
they  are  constituted  at  once  for  dreaming  and  for  action,  for 
musing  and  for  recklessness. 

Like  Hamlet,  they  have  seen  their  mother,  the  country 
to  which  they  owe  their  lives,  dishonoured  under  the  hand 
of  crowned  robbers  and  murderers.  The  court,  access  to 
which  is  sometimes  open  to  them,  frightens  them  as  the 
court    of    Claudius    frightened    the    Danish    Prince.     These 


HAMLET    A   TYPE    OF    POLAND  271 

descendants  of  Hamlet  are,  like  him,  cruel  to  their  Ophelia, 
they  abandon  her  when  she  loves  them  best  ;  like  him,  they 
suffer  themselves  to  be  sent  away  to  foreign  lands,  and 
when  they  speak  they  dissemble  like  him,  clothe  their  mean- 
ing in  comparisons  and  allegories.  Finally,  what  Hamlet  says 
of  himself  holds  good  of  them :  <*  Yet  have  I  in  me  some- 
thing dangerous."  The  peculiarly  Polish  feature  is,  that 
what  weakens  them  and  hinders  them  is  not  their  self-con- 
sciousness but  their  poetry.  While  the  Germans  of  this  type 
are  ruined  by  self-consciousness,  the  French  by  debauchery, 
the  Russians  by  sloth,  self-irony,  or  self-abandonment,  it  is 
imagination  which  leads  the  Poles  astray,  and  causes  them 
to  live  a  life  at  variance  with  the  true  life. 

It  is  true  that  the  Hamlet  character  has  many  different 
sides.  Hamlet  is  the  doubter,  and,  committed  to  inaction 
by  all  sorts  of  scruples  and  considerations,  is  a  man  of 
brains,  who  now  acts  nervously,  now  unmanned  by  nervous- 
ness does  not  dare  to  act  ;  finally,  he  is  the  avenger,  the  man 
who  dissembles  in  order  to  be  better  able  to  avenge  himself. 
Every  one  of  these  aspects  is  developed  by  the  Polish  poets. 

There  is  little  of  Hamlet  in  the  personal  character  of 
Mickiewicz,  if  we  except  the  almost  insane  transport  at  an 
idea  which  appeared  in  him  at  the  moment  when  Towianski 
entered  into  his  existence.  From  this  time  forth  the  libera- 
tion of  Poland  became  a  religion,  a  certainty  for  him.  He 
wanted  to  write  to  Nicholas,  to  convert  Rothschild,  in 
order  to  win  them  to  his  cause.  The  chair  of  Slav  history 
and  literature,  which  the  Monarchy  of  July  had  bestowed 
on  him  at  the  College  of  France,  was  taken  from  him, 
when  his  lectures  came  to  consist  merely  of  the  develop- 
ment of  fantastic  patriotic  theories  (1844).  But  he  pos- 
sessed energy.  In  1848  he  tried  to  form  a  regiment  of  Poles 
in  Italy.  During  the  reign  of  Napoleon  III.,  who,  according 
to  his  belief,  was  to  realise  the  Messiah -promises  of  the 
great  Napoleon,  he  filled  for  some  years  the  modest  position 
of  librarian  at  the  Arsenal,  which  the  Emperor  had  given 
him,  but  during  the  Crimean  war  he  travelled  to  Turkey 
to  raise  a  Polish  legion  against  Russia.  He  died  there,  in 
the  midst  of  these  efforts,  in  November  1855. 


272  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Nevertheless  there  is  a  gHmpse  of  something  Hke  Hamlet 
in  several  of  the  characters  he  created — Wallenrod,  Gus- 
tavus,  Conrad,  Robak.  Gustavus  speaks  the  language  of 
significant  insanity,  Conrad  loses  himself  in  philosophical 
reveries,  Wallenrod  and  Robak  dissemble  or  disguise  them- 
selves in  the  service  of  vengeance,  and  the  latter,  like 
Hamlet,  kills  the  father  of  his  beloved. 

The  Hamlet  nature  plays  a  far  greater  r6le  in  the  char- 
acter of  Slowacki.  He  was  wild  and  gentle,  unruly  and 
ivy-like,  in  life  clung  to  his  friends,  in  art  to  predecessors, 
lived  not  with  his  whole  person,  but  with  his  head,  in  his 
ideas  and  his  fancy.  His  imagination  is  richly  coloured  and 
melodious,  decorative  and  sonorous,  but  he  is  wholly  lacking 
in  the  plastic  sense.  It  is  on  this  account  that  Krasinski's 
advice  to  him  is  so  excellent ;  "  Put  granite  under  your 
rainbows." 

Practically,  he  was  greatly  influenced  by  his  conscious- 
ness of  rivalry  with  Mickiewicz.  His  poetical  writings  are 
mainly  governed  by  this.  In  the  history  of  the  Middle  Ages 
we  read  of  anti-popes.  Slowacki  belongs  to  the  race  of 
anti-popes.  His  real  originality  is  that  of  form.  So  far 
as  characters  and  fundamental  themes  are  concerned  he  is 
almost  wholly  limited  by  the  models  he  imitates,  and  the 
rivals  he  strives  to  outstrip  or  contradict.  Thus  we  can  trace 
all  the  more  plainly  the  general  tendencies  of  Polish  litera- 
ture in  his  receptive  nature. 

His  drama,  Kordjan,  written  in  sight  of  Mont  Blanc, 
which  seemed  to  Slowacki  "  a  carved  statue  of  Siberia,"  is 
founded  on  the  coronation  conspiracy  against  the  Tzar 
Nicholas.  The  conspirators  here  hold  their  meetings  in  a 
church  at  night,  and  the  young  Polish  nobleman,  Kordjan 
(the  man  of  heart),  offers  to  commit  the  murder  of  the  Tzar. 
Nothing  could  be  more  Hamlet-like  than  Kordjan's  answer 
to  the  President's  exclamation,  "  Thou  hast  a  fever,  thine  eyes 
are  wild ! " 

"  Kordjan. — It  is  nothing,  old  man !  It  is  my  hair  which 
has  become  white  and  consumes  my  skull.  I  feel  every  one 
of  my  hairs  suffering  the  pangs  of  death  ;  but  that  amounts 


"KORDJAN"  273 

to  nothing.  .  .  .  Plant  two  poplars  and  a  rosebush  on  my 
grave — streams  of  tears  will  water  them,  and  I  shall  have 
hair  on  my  head  again.  .  .  .  Hast  thou  a  pen  ?  I  would 
fain  write  the  names  of  those  who  will  lament  me — my 
father,  dead  ;  my  mother,  dead  ;  all  my  relatives  dead  ;  she, 
worse  than  dead.  .  .  .  Therefore  I  shall  leave  none  behind 
me.  They  are  all  with  me  !  And  the  gallows  will  be  my 
monument. 

"The  President. — Kordjan  1  There  is  the  note  thou 
gavest  the  conspirators  ;  take  it,  burn  it,  and  be  free  of 
thy  word  ! " 

"  Kordjan. — One,  two,  three  !  Carry  arms  !  Sentinel 
on  the  castle  !  Take  care  !  What  foolish  words  1  they  are 
to  teach  one  how  to  walk.  Old  man  :  you  irritate  me  with 
your  peaceful  countenance  :  I  cannot  forget  that  I  shall 
never  be  old.  If  I  ever  surround  thee  with  my  flock  of 
children,  then  spit  on  my  white  hair,  I  permit  it.  {The  clock 
strikes  eleven.)      It  is  heaven  which  calls  me."     {^Hastens  out.) 

Kordjan's  entrance  into  the  castle  is  now  described  in 
a  great  fantastic  scene.  He  keeps  the  watch  for  the  night, 
and,  with  his  carbine  on  his  arm,  he  goes  towards  the 
emperor's  bedroom,  while  the  voices  of  imagination  and 
fear  speak  to  him  incessantly.  Imagination  says :  Listen 
to  me  !  I  speak  to  thine  eyes  !  Fear  says  :  Listen  to  me  ! 
I  speak  in  the  beating  of  my  heart,  until  walls  and 
columns  become  serpents  and  sphinxes,  the  floor  lives,  the 
plants  have  ears,  the  flowers  move,  and  long  funeral  pro- 
cessions wind  from  the  church  into  the  castle ;  caskets, 
sceptres,  crowns,  corpses,  and  ever  more  corpses,  while 
the  church  bells  chime.  Kordjan  falls  down  on  the  floor 
with  his  arm  around  his  bayonet.  He  was  not  equal  to 
the  deed.  The  Polish  tendency  to  phantasmagoria  inter- 
vened between  him  and  his  action. 

Not  less  Hamlet-like  is  the  earlier,  finely  worked  out 
scene  in  Kordjan,  in  which  Kordjan  as  an  emigrant  has  an 
audience  with  the  Pope,  the  same  Gregory  XVI.  who  in 
July,  1832,  in  a  letter  to  the  bishops  of  Poland,  had  con- 
demned   the    Polish    revolution     as    rebellion    against    the 

s 


274  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

legitimate  ruler,   and    praised    the    high-minded  Tzar    who — 
thank  God ! — had  restored  order  and  peace. 

The  scene  takes  place  in  the  Vatican.  The  Pope  is 
sitting  in  his  chair.  On  a  stool  by  his  side  is  his  tiara. 
On  it  a  red-breasted  parrot.  A  chamberlain  opens  the 
door  for  Kordjan,  and  announces  in  a  loud  voice  :  "  Count 
Kordjan,  a  Polish  nobleman." 

"  The  Pope, — Welcome,  descendant  of  Sobieski."  {He 
extends  his  foot.  Kordjan  kneels  and  kisses  it.)  "  Poland 
is  constantly  overwhelmed  with  benefactions  from  heaven, 
is  she  not  ?  Daily  I  thank  God  in  the  name  of  this  happy 
land.  For  the  emperor,  who  is  really  like  an  angel  with  an 
olive  leaf,  ever  has  the  best  disposition  towards  the  Catholic 
religion.     We  ought  to  sing  hosannas.  .  .  . 

"  The  Parrot  {shrilly). — Miserere. 

"  Kordjan. — I  bring  you  here,  holy  father,  a  holy  relic  : 
it  is  a  handful  of  the  earth,  where  ten  thousand  men,  children, 
old  people  and  women  were  murdered  .  .  .  without  even 
the  sacrament  of  the  altar  beforehand.  Treasure  it,  where 
you  treasure  the  presents  of  the  Tzars,  and  in  return  give  me 
a  tear,  only  a  tear.  .  .  . 

"The  Parrot. — Lacrymce  Christi. 

"The  Pope. — .  .  .  To-morrow  you  shall  see  me  in  all 
my  majesty  distributing  blessings  to  the  city  and  the  world. 
You  shall  see  whole  races  on  their  knees  before  me.  Let 
the  Poles  pray  to  God,  reverence  the  Tzar,  and  hold  fast  by 
their  religion. 

**  Kordjan. — But  this  handful  of  bloody  earth,  does  no 
one  bless  that  ?  what  shall  I  answer  to  my  friends  ? 

"  The  Parrot. — De  profundis  damavi,  clamavi. 

"  The  Pope. — .  .  .  My  son  1  may  God  lead  thee,  and 
grant  that  thy  people  may  tear  the  germs  of  Jacobinism  out 
of  their  bosom  and  wholly  and  entirely  devote  themselves  to 
honouring  God  and  cultivating  the  earth,  henceforth  holding 
nothing  in  their  hands  but  psalm-book,  hoe,  and  rake. 

"  Kordjan  {throwing  his  handful  of  earth  into  the  air). — 
I  throw  the  ashes  of  the  martyrs  to  all  the  winds.  With  a 
sorrowful  soul  I  return  to  my  native  land. 


"THE    GODLESS    COMEDY"  275 

"The  Pope. — If  the  Poles  be  conquered,  thou  canst  be 
sure  that  I  shall  be  the  first  to  excommunicate  them.  May 
religion  increase  like  an  olive  tree,  and  may  the  people  live 
in  peace  in  its  shade. 

"The  Parrot. — Halleluja!" 

And  if  in  Slowacki  we  find  the  radically  disposed  type  of 
Hamlet,  the  conservative  Hamlet  meets  us  in  Krasinski,  who 
for  so  many  years  was  Slowacki's  friend  and  supporter. 

The  poet  was  not  able  to  develop  his  views  of  life  from 
within  with  perfect  freedom.  A  certain  reserve  was  imposed 
upon  him  by  his  position  as  his  father's  son  and  by  a  heritage 
of  aristocratic  tendencies.  Often  and  often  his  personality 
was  plainly  in  an  inward  strife,  constantly  suppressed,  with 
the  doctrine  he  proclaimed  and  the  view  of  life  he  advocated 
— a  view  of  life  which  has  all  the  advantage  of  an  elevated 
mode  of  thought  hostile  to  the  mob,  but  which  is  never 
young,  not  even  in  the  first  youth. 

The  hero  of  The  Godless  Comedy  has  more  than  one  trait 
in  common  with  the  most  celebrated  of  all  Danes.  He  has 
Hamlet's  sensitiveness  and  force  of  imagination.  He  strives 
towards  an  ideal,  but  yet  stands  outside  reality,  poetising 
his  life.  He  is  punished  for  the  absurd  difficulty  of  his 
character  by  the  insanity  of  his  wife,  just  as  Hamlet  is 
punished  for  his  pretended  madness  by  the  real  insanity  of 
Ophelia.  But  this  Hamlet  is  torn  by  a  more  intense  inward 
conflict,  and  devoured  by  deeper  doubt  than  the  Hamlet 
of  the  Renaissance.  The  latter  doubts  whether  the  spirit, 
whose  cause  he  espouses,  is  anything  more  than  a  phantom. 
When  Count  Henry  shuts  himself  up  in  the  Castle  of  the  Holy 
Trinity  he  is  not  sure  that  the  Holy  Trinity  is  more  than  this. 
He  has  no  faith,  only  the  need  of  faith.  He  is  conservative 
and  clerical,  not  from  conviction,  but  from  the  fear  that  the 
forces  that  are  besieging  this  castle  are  only  destructive 
forces.  For  political  reasons  he  supports  a  religious  system 
as  to  which  he  hears  from  his  coarse  antagonist,  Pancratius, 
the  democratic  leader  (a  character  like  Renan's  Caliban),  the 
harshest  truths,  without  being  able  to  refute  them.  When 
Pancratius  unfolds  his  Utopias  to  him,  it  is  of  little  use  that 


276  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

he  has  the  answer  ready,  "  You  do  not  yourself  believe  in 
them  "  ;  when  the  latter  to  his  remark  about  the  human  race, 
all  being  saved  through  Christ,  can  retort :  "  Why  then  has 
He  not  helped  men  in  the  two  thousand  years  of  misery 
and  wretchedness  which  have  elapsed  since  His  death  ? 
Are  you  created  in  the  image  of  man  or  in  that  of  the 
nursery  ?  " 

This  pang  is  pecuUar  to  the  Polish  Hamlet. 

Krasinski  cherished  no  illusion  as  to  a  speedy  resurrec- 
tion of  the  kingdom  of  Poland.  He  regarded  the  whole  of 
western  European  civilisation,  including  that  of  Poland,  as 
doomed.  Nay,  even  Christianity  seemed  to  him  to  be  dying, 
although  he  himself  always  wrote  in  a  Christian  spirit. 
When  he  made  his  appearance  as  an  aristocratic  conservative 
in  his  poems,  it  was  with  the  agonising  feeling  that  he  was 
defending  the  bad  for  fear  of  the  worse.  The  adversities 
of  his  private  life  and  national  misfortunes  combined  to 
crush  him  early.  From  his  thirty-fourth  year  he  was  a 
broken-down  old  man,  afflicted  with  nervous  debility  and  a 
disease  of  the  eyes.  The  thirteen  years  he  had  still  to  live 
were  an  uninterrupted  struggle  with  death. 

It  has  been  already  stated  that  Hamlet  was,  so  to  speak, 
introduced  at  the  court  of  Claudius  by  him.  The  episode 
occurs  in  his  beautiful  poem  the  Temptation,  a  typical  example 
of  the  symbolical  form  of  representation  in  which  the 
political  conditions  of  those  days  compelled  the  poets  of 
Poland  to  express  themselves.  The  poem  dwells  plainly 
enough  on  personal  recollections  of  Krasinski's  youthful 
residence  in  St.  Petersburg,  and  is,  moreover,  a  fantastic 
representation  of  what  he  would  have  experienced  in  life  if 
he  had  followed  his  father's  example. 

The  poem  opens  mysteriously  with  an  invocation :  "  O 
mother,  six  times  pierced,  unhappy  mother  ! "  and  describes 
a  landscape  where  on  a  gentle  rising  hill  a  coffln  lies  under 
a  slender  fir  tree ;  in  the  coffin  is  a  figure  with  chains  on 
the  hands  and  a  crown  on  the  forehead.  Six  hills  are 
separated  by  green  furrows,  where  blood  runs  like  babbling 
brooks,  and  weeds  sprout  over  broken  weapons. 

Then  the  poet  describes  the  arrival  of   a  young  noble 


KRASINSKI'S    "TEMPTATION"  277 

at  a  great  city  and  a  great  castle,  by  the  stairs  of  which 
all  ascend  as  eagerly  as  if  they  were  going  up  to  heaven. 
There  is  the  sound  of  many  musical  instruments,  perfumes 
surround  the  new-comer,  he  sees  a  throne  in  the  sunlight 
elevated  above  the  crowd  of  dancers.  On  the  throne  sits 
the  absolute  ruler  of  life  and  death  under  a  canopy  of 
flags.  From  one  of  these  flags,  which  is  torn  in  tatters, 
drops  of  blood  now  and  then  fall.  But  no  one  pays  any 
attention  to  them  except  the  youth. 

The  crowd  separates,  and  the  lord  of  the  castle  steps 
down  from  the  throne  and  goes,  erect  and  vigorous,  towards 
the  young  man.  The  youth  looks  him  steadfastly  in  the 
eyes  ;  the  ruler  knits  his  brows  and  says  gently  :  "  Come, 
let  us  go  together,  and  I  will  show  you  the  wonders  of  my 
castle."  And  when  the  youth  stands  as  if  lost  in  a  dream, 
he  gives  him  a  kiss  on  his  forehead  and  leads  him  away. 
With  his  mother's  coffin  before  his  eyes  the  young  man 
walks  by  the  side  of  the  ruler  of  life  and  death,  and  the 
blood  in  his  arm  beats  against  the  hard  arm  of  the  usurper. 
And  the  latter  speaks  of  the  past,  even  mentions  the  name 
of  the  murdered  mother  without  shuddering,  as  if  her  death 
did  not  rest  upon  his  conscience. 

They  pass  through  rows  of  men  whose  foreheads  touch 
the  malachite  floor ;  then  at  the  other  end  of  the  castle 
marble  doors  are  suddenly  opened.  The  youth  looks  into 
an  enormous  treasury,  into  mines  of  endless  extent.  Foun- 
tains of  flowing  gold  and  silver  shine  with  blended  splendour, 
and  amethyst  vaults  rear  themselves  in  all  the  colours  of  the 
rainbow.  But  now  and  then  there  is  also  heard  as  it 
were  a  shriek  of  some  one  dying,  a  clanking  of  chains  ;  now 
and  then  human  forms  pass  by  like  black  cloudlets  over  the 
moon  ;  they  raise  their  hands  with  a  clank,  and  pray  for  a 
drop  of  water  ;  then  the  eyes  of  the  ruler  grow  blood- red 
with  wrath. 

From  this  time  all  show  honour  to  the  young  man. 
They  wish  to  kiss  the  hand  which  has  touched  that  of  the 
ruler.  They  offer  him  goblets  full  of  costly  wine,  and  a 
beautiful  young  woman  speaks  to  him  of  love. 

In  the  throne-room  the  lord  of  life  and  death  has  given 


278  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

the  youth  a  place  at  the  table  by  his  side  under  the  con- 
quered flags.  Ambassadors  from  the  kings  of  the  East  and 
of  the  West  appear  before  the  ruler,  and  every  general  puts 
at  the  foot  of  the  throne  an  urn  of  pure  gold,  full  of  the  ashes 
of  those  who  have  fallen  in  battle  for  the  holy  cause  in  the 
different  quarters  of  the  globe.  The  ruler  asks  :  "  Are  they 
really  dead,  and  will  they  never  rise  again  ?  "  The  answer 
comes,  "  Certainly  never,"  and  the  urns  are  ranged  on  both 
sides  of  the  hall  on  black  granite  columns.  Fire  is  laid  in 
them,  and  they  burn  with  a  bluish  flame  ;  pale  clouds  of 
incense  convey  the  odour  of  the  dead  to  the  ruler. 

Directly  opposite  the  young  man  stands  the  urn  which 
bears  his  mother's  name  and  contains  the  ashes  of  her  sons. 
As  often  as  he  looks  on  it  he  forgets  his  beaker,  but  the 
beautiful  woman  by  his  side  continually  offers  it  to  him 
again.  A  veil  spreads  itself  over  his  consciousness.  Then 
the  ruler  smiles  and  says :  "  You  are  my  guest ;  it  is  time 
that  you  take  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  me  and  renounce  your 
old  name,"  and  he  throws  a  handful  of  diamond  crosses  to  him 
with  the  words,  '<  Wear  them  in  remembrance  of  me."  A 
herald  steps  forward,  and  out  of  a  black  book  he  reads  aloud 
the  formula  of  the  oath  to  the  young  man,  who  repeats  it 
with  sunken  head,  while  it  becomes  dark  before  his  eyes. 
He  has  hardly  ended  when  the  lord  of  life  and  death  rises 
and  calls  out :  *'  You  slave  of  my  slaves  !  you  shall  die  by 
the  halter  if  you  break  your  oath  1 "  Then  he  smiles  with 
scorn.  But  when  the  youth  raises  his  eyes,  he  reads  on 
the  urn,  where  his  mother's  name  was  written,  only  the  one 
word — Dishonour,  and  thousands  shout  dishonour  to  him, 
before  him,  around  him.  Dishonour  resounds  in  the  vaults 
of  the  castle  from  the  throne-room  to  the  treasury. 

It  was  all  a  dream,  from  which  the  youth  awakes,  and 
the  poem  ends  as  it  began,  with  an  enthusiastic  invocation 
of  the  six  times  pierced  mother. 

As  already  indicated,  the  poem  is  an  expression  of  the 
Polish  Hamlet's  horror  of  the  court  of  Claudius. 

But  only  a  partial  representation  of  the  peculiarity  and 
versatility  of  these  Polish  writers  is  given  by  laying  stress 
upon  their  analogies  with   Hamlet.     Hamlet's  antithesis  in 


MICKIEWICZ    AND    KRASINSKI  279 

Shakespeare's  tragedy  is  Fortinbras,  the  rejuvenating  prin- 
ciple of  fresh  reality,  who  inherits  the  throne  and  the 
kingdom  when  all  else  is  lost  and  poisoned.  There  is 
also  a  glimmering  of  the  nature  of  Fortinbras  in  several  of 
these  poets,  but  the  very  essence  of  that  which  he  symboli- 
cally represents  lives  in  Mickiewicz. 

In  Mickiewicz  there  was  a  fountain  of  bubbling,  youthful 
power.  There  was  something  in  him  which  was  freshness 
itself,  irresistibility  itself,  a  something  which  is  expressed 
in  words  in  the  Ode  to  Youth  and  in  the  immortal  poem, 
Farts.  It  is  youth  which  believes  in  being  able  to  tear 
the  old  world  out  of  its  groves,  and  which  makes  the 
attempt.  It  is  youth  which,  like  Faris  or  the  Jehu  of 
Scripture  "  drives  furiously."  It  is  before  this  that  birds 
of  prey  take  flight  and  hurricanes  must  yield.  This  tumultuous 
force  and  self-confidence  is  not  to  be  found  so  primitively 
either  in  Slowacki  or  Krasinski.  It  is  from  this  force  in 
Mickiewicz  that  springs  a  passion  as  exalted  as  that  which 
stretches  the  bow  in  the  third  part  of  Dziady^  and  a  mas- 
culine equilibrium  of  thought  such  as  that  which  is  disclosed 
in  the  masterpiece  of  Polish  literature,  Pan  Tadeusz. 

Such  robustness  of  emotion  is  not  found  in  any  other 
Polish  poet.  Mickiewicz  alone  approached  those  great 
names  in  poetry,  which  stand  in  history  as  above  all  healthy, 
far  healthier  than  Byron,  healthier  even  than  Shakespeare : 
Homer  and  Goethe. 

It  is  not  by  the  healthfulness  of  his  soul  that  Krasinski 
raises  himself  above  his  period  and  belongs  to  the  future. 
It  is  by  the  loftiness  of  his  soul,  the  sublimity  of  his  outlook, 
and  his  mode  of  thought.  His  works  have  not  the  blush 
of  health,  but  the  purity  of  colourlessness.  There  is  a  defiant 
independence  in  his  isolated  position,  a  peculiar  foresight 
in  his  views  as  to  the  danger  of  inciting  the  people  against 
the  Polish  nobility — those  views  which  Slowacki  arrogantly 
and  scornfully  ridiculed,  but  which  received  an  apparently 
incontrovertible  justification  when  the  peasants  of  Galicia,  in 
1846,  were  paid  by  Metternich's  agent,  Breindl,  five  gulden 
for  every  living  and  ten  for  every  murdered  Polish  noble- 
man.    There  is  finally  a  depth  of  understanding  in  The  Godless 


28o  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Comedy,  the  genius  of  which  surprises  us,  when  we  remember 
that  it  was  composed  by  a  youth  of  twenty-one. 

It  is  neither  their  robustness  nor  their  independence  that 
will  enable  Slowacki's  productions  to  defy  time.  It  is  true 
that,  in  religious  respects,  he  is  more  liberal,  in  political, 
more  audacious,  than  his  great  rivals,  but  he  is  so  as  much 
from  a  spirit  of  contradiction  as  from  conviction.  No 
one  is  more  brilliant  than  he.  He  has  the  genuine  Polish 
love  for  show  and  colour,  he  for  whom  the  divine  was 
symbolised  by  the  plume  in  the  helmet.  But  if  he  has  the 
Polish  love  for  pomp,  he  has,  above  everything  else,  the 
common  Slavic  faculty  for  imitation.  In  almost  every  one  of 
his  works  we  are  distracted  in  our  enjoyment  by  the 
recollection  of  a  very  definite  exemplar. 

The  manner  in  which  he  appropriates  Shakespeare  is 
slavish  ;  his  Balladyna,  a,  blending  of  Midsummer  Night's 
Dream,  King  Lear,  and  Macbeth,  in  which  beautiful  single 
passages  and  profound  scenes  are  to  be  found,  but  in 
which  the  elements  are  inharmoniously  adjusted  to  each 
other,  leaves  a  painful  impression  as  a  whole,  in  spite  of 
the  boldness  of  certain  conceptions.  He  has  utterly  ruined 
his  treatment  of  the  tragedy  of  Beatrice  Cenci,  supplanting 
the  study  of  the  human  soul  by  a  long  drawn-out  romantic 
dance  of  witches,  a  mere  dilution  of  the  witch  theme, 
treated  with  the  judicious  reserve  of  the  master  in  Macbeth. 
His  Cenci  is  far  behind  Shelley's  much  earlier  and  more 
admirable  version  of  the  same  theme,  with  which  Slowacki 
was  evidently  not  acquainted,  otherwise  he  would  have 
imitated  it.  His  Mary  Stuart  is  more  independent  and 
characteristic.  It  follows,  almost  act  for  act,  the  same 
portion  of  the  life  of  the  Scottish  Queen,  afterwards  treated 
by  Bjornson  and  Slowacki's  Mary,  as  a  character,  is  more 
interesting  and  more  important  than  Bjornson's,  while  the 
treatment  as  a  whole  is  more  lyrical. 

Slowacki  was  perhaps  too  much  taken  up  by  himself 
to  become  properly  absorbed  in  humanity  before  he  described 
men.  He  studied  human  life  less  than  the  works  of  Byron, 
Shakespeare,  Mickiewicz,  Krasinski,  and  finally  Calderon. 
So  he  drew  figures  half  living,  half    dream-like  ;    characters 


THE    THREE    GREAT    POLISH    POETS        281 

of  which  some  fragments  are  true,  others  incorrect,  and 
concealed  the  weakness  of  the  drawing  by  throwing  the 
rainbow  glow  of  his  diction  over  it.  His  style  is  bold 
and  eloquent  but  seldom  closely  knit.  Its  strength  and 
weakness  is  its  overwhelming  richness  of  colour. 

There  is  no  bird  which  in  strength  of  wing  and  power 
of  flight  can  rival  the  eagle.  Fitly  is  it  called  the  king  of 
birds.  There  is  no  bird  which,  in  unblemished  whiteness 
and  quiet  dignity  of  movement  can  rival  the  swan.  Fitly 
is  it  called  the  symbol  of  noble  purity.  The  peacock 
cannot  fly  like  the  eagle,  nor  sail  like  the  swan,  but  neither 
of  them  can  come  near  it  in  the  incomparable  splendour 
of  its  plumage. 

Mickiewicz  is  the  eagle,  Krasinski  the  swan,  Slowacki 
the  peacock  among  the  winged  spirits  of  Poland. 


VIII 

PAN  TADEUSZyTUE  ONLY  EPOPEE  OF  THE  CENTURY— 
MICKIEWICZ  AND  RZEWUSKI— IMPORTANCE  OF 
MICKIEWICZ 

Among  the  works  which  these  poets  have  produced  there 
is  a  single  book  which  competent  judges  at  an  early  day 
pronounced  to  be  the  best  poetical  work  in  Polish  litera- 
ture. It  is  the  only  work  in  which  one  of  the  three  great 
poets  has  attempted  to  give  a  picture  of  the  many-sided 
national  culture  during  a  period  of  agitation  of  which  he 
was  himself  a  witness ;  the  only  work  in  which  we  find  a 
broad  and  rich  representation  of  the  natural  scenery  of 
Poland  ;  the  only  one  in  which  the  poet  does  not  think 
it  beneath  him  to  let  everyday  men  appear  in  large 
numbers  ;  finally,  the  only  one  in  which  the  keynote  is  no 
longer  that  of  tragical  or  lyrical  exaltation,  but  a  quiet 
humour,  from  which  the  passage  to  satire,  tenderness, 
melancholy,  or  enthusiasm  is  easy. 

As  we  all  know,  the  number  of  epic  poems  of  real  value 
is  small.  But  certain  of  these  works  remain  in  the  litera- 
ture of  the  world  as  essential  books,  national  books, 
in  which  a  whole  nation  or  race  has  found  its  character 
described,  its  life  embodied  in  true  and  living  form  ;  they 
belong  to  remote  times  like  the  patriarchal  books  of  the  Old 
Testament,  like  Homer,  Ramayana,  Firdusi,  the  Niebelunge- 
lied.  The  reason  is  that  the  naive  consciousness  of  a  nation 
generally  expresses  itself  for  the  first  time  in  a  genuine  epic. 
It  comes  into  existence  when  the  nation  has  such  a  clear 
understanding  of  itself  that  it  can  enjoy  a  glorified  reflection 
of  its  conditions  in  art,  and  yet  has  not  become  so  civil- 
ised that  its  religion  has  stiffened  into  dogmas  and  its 
forms    of   society    into    a    commonwealth    of  police    or    of 

law.     For    the  conditions  are  epic — that  is    to  say,  in  the 

282 


ESSENTIALS    OF    EPIC    POETRY  283 

broadest  sense  heroic — only  when  the  ruHng  power  does 
not  lie  outside  of  the  individual,  and  has  not  destroyed  inde- 
pendent activity,  as  it  is  destroyed  when  discipline  and  com- 
mand rule  in  war,  and  royal  power,  official  force,  and 
even  more  powerful  society  standards  in  time  of  peace. 

In  Homer  every  single  leader  is  an  independent  Greek  ; 
even  if  Agamemnon  is  the  king  of  kings,  the  other  kings 
are  not  under  his  sceptre.  We  meet  with  similar  conditions 
in  the  epic  poems  of  far  later  times,  as  in  the  Cid  of  the 
Spaniards  and  in  the  Italians,  Ariosto  and  Tasso,  even  if  the 
naivete  is  weaker  here,  and  the  Virgilian  models,  not- 
ably in  Tasso,  have  a  depressing  effect.  Tasso's  Jerusalem 
could  be  a  genuine  national  book  only  in  so  far  as  the 
people  delighted  in  the  sound  of  the  verses  and  in  the 
brilliant  adventures.  It  did  not  find  its  own  life  re- 
produced therein. 

The  attempt  to  create  a  national  epic  failed  most 
conspicuously  when  Voltaire  wrote  the  Henriade  in  the 
eighteenth  century.  From  that  time  all  thinking  men  began 
to  understand  that  wholly  peculiar  conditions  are  demanded 
for  the  production  of  a  national  epic  poem,  and  that  it  could 
hardly  be  written  in  an  intellectual  age,  since  it  was  neither 
probable  that  we  should  be  able  to  find  that  naivete  in  a  poet, 
nor  that  primitive  anarchy  in  a  period  he  knew  and  could 
describe,  on  which  the  power  of  the  great  epics  to  strike 
deep  into  the  national  consciousness  seems  hitherto  to  have 
depended. 

Since  naivete  has  again  come  to  honour  and  dignity 
in  this  century,  and  since  poets  have  again  become  child- 
like to  some  extent,  and  to  some  extent  have  simulated 
simplicity,  they  have  tried  to  avoid  the  regularity  of 
modern  conditions  by  laying  the  scene  of  their  epic 
essays  in  grey  antiquity. 

It  is  in  the  nature  of  the  epic  to  give  a  broad  picture  of 
the  culture  of  the  people,  with  a  detailed  description  of  their 
entire  manner  of  living,  their  eating  and  drinking,  their 
dress  and  dwelling,  manners  and  customs.  In  Homer  all 
this  still  lives.  The  Homeric  man  and  woman  find  them- 
selves  again    in    their    surroundings.      Odysseus    has    him- 


284  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

self  fashioned  his  bed,  the  women  have  themselves  woven 
their  apparel,  the  king's  daughters  themselves  attend  to 
the  washing,  the  men  themselves  pitch  their  tents,  or  build 
their  houses.  Nothing  of  their  own  is  strange  to  them, 
nothing,  like  the  dwellings  or  materials  of  our  own  days,  is 
the  product  of  a  manufactory  or  of  a  machine.  The  heroes 
themselves  gained  their  rare  weapons,  each  of  which  has  its 
own  peculiarity,  by  fighting  or  as  booty. 

When   the   Scandinavian   authors,  shrinking   from   their 
own  organised  and  regulated  age  and  the  tyranny  of  factory 
and  machine,  turned  back  to  antiquity,  they  produced  narra- 
tive poems  like  Hrolf  Krake,  or  Frithiof,  books  of  a  certain 
qualified  value,  but  which  have  no  deep  intellectual  interest, 
because  they  have  not  the  slightest  resemblance  to  the  period 
they  represent.    The  only  modern  poets,  who  have  succeeded 
in  producing  anything  which  has  the  character  of  an  epic,  are 
Byron,  whose  Don  Juan  is  a  picture  of  the  world,  although 
in  its  nature  it  is  a  bitter,  glowingly  sensual,  wrathful  satire, 
and  before  him  Goethe,  who  in  Hermann  and  Dorothea  repro- 
duced something  of  the  simplest  and  best  substance  of  the 
German  people  in  the  old  art  form  of  the  narrative  poem. 
The  types  here  are  plain,  of  homely  grandeur.     Hermann 
and  Dorothea  stand  before  the  reader's  eyes  as  the  German 
Adam  and  Eve.     But  the  epic  foundation  is  slender  ;  family 
life  in  a  little  German  town ;   pastor  and  apothecary  ;   the 
landlord  and   landlady  of    the   inn  ;    the   relations   between 
parents  and  a  grown-up  son;  but  as  background  we  have: 
the   French   Revolution,  the   fugitive   emigrants,  who   bring 
from  the   left   bank   of   the   Rhine   the  orphaned,  homeless 
girl   whom  Hermann  leads  to  his  home  and  to  his  parents. 
The  contrast  between  vagrancy  and  the  cosiness  of  a  pro- 
vincial town,  between  upheaval  and  bourgeois  stagnation,  is 
also  indicated  here.     The  whole  is  less  an  epic  than  an  idyl 
of  family  life  on  an  epic  background. 

In  Pan  Tadeusz  Poland  possesses  the  only  successful  epic 
our  century  has  produced.  The  good  star  of  Mickiewicz 
ordained  that  this  time  he  should  not  go  back  to  the  remote 
past  in  order  to  produce  something  epic.  Here  he  suc- 
ceeded in  seeing  the  heroic  in  his  own  age. 


"PAN    TADEUSZ"  285 

Elizabeth  Browning  in  the  beautiful  and  eloquent  verse 
of  her  Aurora  Leigh  has  a  memorable  passage  as  to  the 
possibility  of  seeing  this.     She  says : — 

"...  every  age. 
Through  being  beheld  too  close,  is  ill  discerned 
By  those  who  have  not  lived  past  it,  we'll  suppose 
Mount  Athos  carved,  as  Alexander  schemed. 
To  some  colossal  statue  of  a  man  ; 
The  peasants,  gathering  brushwood  in  his  ear, 
Had  guessed  as  little  as  the  browsing  goats 
Of  form  or  feature  of  humanity 
Up  there — in  fact,  had  travelled  five  miles  off 
Or  ere  the  giant  image  broke  on  them, 
Full  human  profile,  nose  and  chin  distinct. 
Mouth  muttering  rhythms  of  silence  up  the  sky." 

Thus  the  ordinary  man  and  the  ordinary  poet  do  not  see 
the  contours  of  the  age  in  which  they  live. 

Mickiewicz  was  the  rare  epic  poet  in  this  sense,  that  he 
succeeded  fully  in  reproducing  not  only  the  origin  and 
source  of  the  customs  of  his  native  land,  but  all  the  great- 
ness and  all  the  poetry  which  the  period  about  the  year 
181 2  had  in  its  bosom  for  Poland.  He  dared  to  found  a 
whole  epic  on  his  own  observation. 

Its  genesis  is  remarkable.  It  emanated  from  Mickie- 
wicz's  feeling  of  despair  when  the  revolution  of  1831,  in 
which  he  had  not  participated,  was  crushed.  In  1832,  after 
Garczynski's  death,  he  writes ;  "  I  am  like  a  Frenchman  on 
the  retreat  from  Russia,  demoralised,  weak,  almost  without 
boots."  He  became  reserved,  gloomy,  sullen,  misanthropic, 
and  negligent  in  his  dress.  To  escape  this  despairing  dejec- 
tion, he  turned  back  to  the  land  of  his  childhood,  Lithuania, 
in  which  he  had  seen  the  light,  which  he  had  not  visited 
since  the  years  of  his  early  youth,  and  which  he,  the  exile, 
was  never  to  see  again.  And  he,  who  as  a  poet,  directly 
or  through  disguises,  had  always  spoken  only  in  his  own 
name,  he  who  had  defied  and  incited,  protested  and  agitated, 
became  an  epic  poet  of  perfect  calm  and  mighty  breadth. 

He  achieved  the  epic  naivete,  which  is  so  rare  and  so 
costly,  which  was  denied  to  all  other  poets  in  and  out  of 
Poland,  for  a  double  reason  ;  firstly,  because  of  a  peculiarity 


286  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

in  his  relation  to  his  subject,  and,  secondly,  because  of  a 
peculiarity  in  the  subject  itself. 

The  other  poets  lacked  natvek'.  But  he,  who  had  only 
seen  his  fatherland  with  the  eyes  of  a  child,  and  never  could 
see  it  again  with  the  eyes  of  a  mature  man,  had  never  had 
this  picture  clouded.  He  received  in  compensation  for  this 
exclusion  from  the  land  of  his  fathers  the  long  lost  gift  of 
the  epic  poet,  the  naive  feeling  of  growing  up  with  the 
country,  its  customs  and  conditions,  as  they  were  when 
he  was  a  child. 

And  then  it  happened  that  the  subject  which  presented 
itself  to  him  had  just  the  characteristics  of  the  old  epic  sub- 
jects. Lithuanian  life  about  1812  was  an  entirely  civilised 
condition  in  its  way,  yet  one  wholly  outside  of  the  mono- 
tonous cosmopolitan  civilisation.  Everything  in  this  Szlachta 
epos  was,  therefore,  as  untouched  by  the  culture  of  western 
Europe  as  are  the  enormous  primeval  forests  of  Lithuania 
by  forestry.  Here  everything  is  original,  from  the  peculiar 
food  of  the  country,  with  its  wonderful  names,  to  the  varie- 
gated dress — zupan,  kontusz,  confoderatka.  There  is  a 
wealth  of  characteristic  customs  ;  there  is  even  a  special 
costume  in  which  to  collect  edible  sponges.  And  every 
weapon,  every  club,  every  sabre,  every  gun,  has  a  history 
which  is  told.  Originals  swarm  here  ;  every  other  person 
who  appears  is  an  original  of  the  primeval  forest.  Here 
there  is  neither  supremacy  nor  discipline.  The  relation 
between  the  upper  classes  and  the  servants  is  still,  as  in  the 
Middle  Ages,  a  purely  personal  relation,  not  infrequently  a 
passionate  attachment. 

Finally,  in  this  aristocratic  epopee  there  is  a  relation 
between  the  nobles  such  as  we  see  between  the  princes  in 
Homer.  A  wild  independence  blossoms  here,  in  spite  of 
apparent  subordination  to  a  king,  a  state  of  things  unknown 
elsewhere  in  Europe.  Men  do  justice  for  themselves  with 
weapons  in  their  hands ;  they  acknowledge  no  superior, 
carry  on  war  and  give  battle  on  a  small  scale,  rend  the  land 
with  internecine  conflicts  until  the  coming  of  the  Russian 
drives  the  enemies  into  each  other's  arms,  and  Napoleon's 
entry  into   Poland   lights   the   fire   of  patriotic   enthusiasm. 


HENRYK    RZEWUSKI  287 

But  the  anarchy  of  the  nobiHty,  which  in  the  world  of  reaUty 
had  shown  itself  so  fatal  to  the  existence  of  Poland,  proved, 
as  if  in  compensation,  so  admirable  an  epic  subject,  that 
Poland  got  its  only  epos  by  virtue  of  that  very  condition 
which  annihilated  the  country  as  a  State.  And  Mickiewicz, 
describing  this  host  of  Don  Quixotes  with  love  and  humour, 
opened  up  vistas  in  the  past  and  the  future  which  explained 
the  glorious  past  of  his  people  and  its  present  ruin. 

The  action  lasts  from  the  summer  of  181 1  to  the  spring 
of  181 2.  By  choosing  this  point  of  time,  his  hopeful  nature 
found  scope  in  his  poem,  this  epos  of  a  humiHated  people, 
for  he  could  close  with  a  lyric  flight,  an  inspired  burst 
of  consolation.  He  had  experienced  this  popular  feeling, 
when  as  a  boy  he  saw  the  entrance  of  the  French  bat- 
talions into  Nowogrodek. 

In  his  travels  in  the  Crimea,  Mickiewicz  had  as  fellow- 
traveller  the  somewhat  older  Henryk  Rzewuski,  the  heir  of 
one  of  the  old  families  of  the  great  nobility  of  Poland.  This 
intellectual  man,  an  excellent  narrator,  had  been  educated 
in  a  reactionary,  aristocratic  circle,  which  swore  by  Bonald 
and  De  Maistre.  In  181 2  he  had  made  the  personal  ac- 
quaintance of  De  Maistre  in  St.  Petersburg,  and  he  appeared 
first  in  private  life,  afterwards  in  literature,  as  the  uncom- 
promising spokesman  of  his  mai^ter,  the  greatest  champion 
of  authority  of  the  age.  Rzewuski  abounded  in  recollections 
of  the  life  of  the  Polish  nobility  of  the  eighteenth  century. 
He  was  endowed  with  a  literary  talent  of  which  he  was  not 
conscious.  When  Mickiewicz  was  residing  in  Rome  and 
passed  two  winters  in  company  with  Rzewuski,  the  poet 
urged  him  to  write.  He  inferred  the  talent  of  written  de- 
scription from  his  gift  of  oral  narrative.  When,  in  response 
to  his  suggestion,  Rzewuski  produced  some  verses  which 
Mickiewicz  pronounced  bad,  the  latter  did  not  on  that  account 
mistrust  his  own  judgment  ;  for  he  had  perceived  from  the 
beginning  that  the  talent  of  Rzewuski  could  only  manifest 
itself  in  a  prose  form.  Therefore  he  earnestly  advised  him 
to  write  prose.  Rzewuski  followed  this  advice  and  succeeded. 
Strange  to  say,  this  prose  afterwards  had  a  reflex  influence 
upon  Mickiewicz. 


288  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

Rzewuski  wrote  a  thick  volume  of  memoirs  of  the  previous 
century  in  the  style  of  the  period.  The  fictitious  author  was 
Severin  Soplica,  one  of  the  servants  and  adherents  of  Prince 
Charles  Radziwill.  In  these  loosely  knit  memoirs,  which  give 
glowing  pictures  of  the  time,  rich  in  strong  features  and  with 
admirable  descriptions  of  character,  the  leading  personage 
is  that  Prince  Radziwill,  so  popular  in  Lithuania,  called 
Paniekochanku,  on  account  of  his  favourite  form  of  salutation 
(Dear  sir !  Dear  friend).  The  time  of  the  action  is  about 
1770.  When  the  book  appeared  in  1839  ^^  ^^^  received 
with  great  enthusiasm  ;  it  was  read  as  if  it  were  a  volume 
of  genuine  reminiscences. 

It  was  completed  in  1832,  and  it  is  probable  that 
Mickiewicz  had  received  from  Rzewuski  the  incentive  to 
deal  with  the  Poland  of  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century. 
That  his  hero  also  bears  the  family  name  of  Soplica  implies 
this.  At  the  close  of  1832  he  began  the  elaboration  of 
Pan  Tadeusz  which,  in  a  letter  written  in  December,  he 
characterises  as  "  a  rural  poem  in  the  style  of  Hermann  and 
Dorothea^'  of  which  he  "  has  altogether  scribbled  a  thousand 
verses."  While  he  was  writing  it,  he  felt  as  if  he  were 
transported  to  Lithuania.  In  February  1834  ^^  finished 
the  poem,  which  for  the  rest  he  mentions  carelessly,  with  a 
certain  lack  of  respect,  as  "  a  piece  of  nonsense,"  in  com- 
parison to  Dziady,  which  he  means  to  continue  in  order  to 
finish  "  his  one  work  worth  reading."  Wonderfully  enough 
the  public  soon  judged  far  more  justly  than  the  author  him- 
self in  this  matter.  He  did  not  even  appreciate  his  good 
fortune,  in  lighting  upon  such  an  untouched  subject,  such 
primitive  nature,  whose  poetry  he  could  reproduce  with 
lively  fancy,  and  such  a  characteristic  anarchy  regulated  by 
customs,  and  marked  by  all  the  unruly  freedom  of  the  indi- 
dividual,  which  was  in  such  contrast  to  the  police-ridden 
uniformity  of  other  European  countries. 

And  since  he  was  not  like  Rzewuski  merely  a  gifted 
narrator,  who  presented  a  past  in  careless  fragmentary  prose, 
but  a  writer  who  embalmed  his  recollections,  observations, 
visions,  and  hopes  in  a  form  of  entrancing  melody,  so  that 
no  syllable  could  be  taken  away  from  any  line  without  loss, 


"PAN    TADEUSZ"  289 

he  endowed  his  chief  work  with  such  a  power  of  resistance 
to  time,  that  it  will  come  to  later  generations  in  Poland  as 
the  great  diamond  in  the  national  patrimony,  the  cutting  of 
which  has  made  its  value  incalculable,  and  whose  hard 
surface  resists  all  attack. 

It  is  very  suggestive  that  the  contemporaries  of  Mickiewicz 
paid  particular  attention  to  the  descriptions  of  the  past  in 
Pan  Tadeusz.  They  considered  the  poem  in  connection 
with  the  Recollections  of  Soplica,  and  thus,  in  the  period  which 
immediately  followed,  that  one  of  the  elements  of  the  Polish 
romanticists  became  the  predominant  one,  which  in  the 
beginning  had  not  been  specially  prominent,  namely,  the 
element  of  the  ancient  nobility.  In  the  track  of  Pan  Tadeusz 
the  epopees  and  romances  of  the  ancient  nobility  grew  so 
rapidly  that  even  Slowacki  —  in  Agamemnon's  Tomb  —  was 
obliged  to  utter  a  warning  against  this  continual  poison  of  the 
past,  this  Nessus-shirt  which  the  new  Poland  wore,  the  red 
kontusz  and  golden  girdle  of  the  old  Szlachta. 

Now  we  can  hardly  comprehend  that  it  was  that  in  Pan 
Tadeusz  which  suggests  Walter  Scott,  which  about  1840  gave 
this  unique  poetical  work  its  chief  effect.  At  the  present 
time  it  is  clear  that  the  reason  that  Mickiewicz,  and  he  alone 
of  the  three  greater  poets,  finally  succeeded  in  producing  a 
work  at  once  popular  and  imperishable,  was  the  circum- 
stance that  he,  and  he  alone,  gave  a  description  of  realities 
with  no  fantastic  or  mystical  elements  interwoven,  and  painted 
a  world  which  did  not  lie  half-hidden  behind  the  mists  of 
the  past,  but  one  which  he  himself  had  seen  with  the  clear, 
wise  eyes  of  childhood  before  it  vanished. 

The  sub-title  of  the  poem  is  "The  Last  Raid  in  Lithu- 
ania," and  treats  of  the  old  anarchical  custom  of  determining 
litigation  between  two  noble  families  thus :  one  of  them  with 
its  adherents  in  a  body  simply  rode  out  and  took  possession 
by  force  of  the  object  in  dispute.  Thus  it  happens  here. 
Between  the  families  Soplica  and  Horeszko  there  is  an  old 
quarrel  about  the  possession  of  a  ruined  castle.  The  nobility 
of  the  district  is  assembled  at  Soplicowo  to  settle  the 
quarrel.  There  we  become  acquainted  with  all  the  persons 
who  appear  ;   the  leading  character,  Tadeusz,  his  uncle,  the 

T 


290  IMPRESSIONS    OP^    POLAND 

Judge  Soplica  ;  the  opposing  party,  the  fooHsh  Italianate, 
romantic  Count  Horeszko,  in  whom  the  author  seems  to 
have  given  the  portrait  of  the  man  who  supplanted  him 
in  the  heart  of  Marylka  ;  a  handsome  and  amiable  coquette 
from  St.  Petersburg,  who  is  no  longer  young,  Telimene  ;  the 
young  ingenue  Sophia  of  the  house  of  Horeszko,  who  was 
brought  up  in  the  family  of  the  judge  (a  young  girl,  who  has 
some  of  the  traits  of  Marylka);  finally,  a  swarm  of  excellently 
drawn  guests.  They  go  on  a  bear-hunt  in  the  primeval 
forest,  which  is  described  with  incomparable  power.  The 
hunters  come  into  peril  of  their  lives,  but  the  bear  is 
struck  down  by  Robak,  a  mystic  Bernardine  monk,  who 
intervenes  on  all  occasions  to  help  and  rescue.  The  dispute 
about  th^  bear's  head  excites  Count  Horeszko,  and  leads 
him  on  to  take  forcible  possession  by  "  raid  "  of  the  castle 
adjudged  to  Soplica.  This  triumph  is  celebrated  by  a 
drinking-bout,  at  which  all  the  participants  become  so  intoxi- 
cated that  the  Russian  soldiers  passing  by  are  able  to  over- 
come them  like  beasts,  and  bind  them.  But  against  the 
Russians  all  the  Poles  feel  as  if  they  were  allies.  Robak 
forms  a  plan  to  liberate  the  prisoners  and  take  the  Russians 
by  surprise.  It  comes  to  a  battle,  in  which  indeed  he  is 
mortally  wounded,  but  the  Poles  prevail.  Their  leaders  must 
now,  it  is  true,  escape  further  pursuit  by  flight,  but  they 
cross  the  Niemen  to  the  troops  of  Napoleon,  and  soon  return 
as  officers  in  the  Polish  army  under  Dombrowski,  whose 
banner  unites  all  the  former  opponents.  The  marriage  of 
Tadeusz  Soplica  with  Sophia  Horeszko  is  celebrated  as  a 
symbol  of  the  reconciliation  of  the  rival  houses,  and  at  a 
great  banquet  Jankiel  plays  the  history  of  Poland  down  to 
1812,  until  all  ends  as  in  a  golden  dawn  of  bright  hopes. 

The  leading  character,  Tadeusz,  is  an  amiable  and  brave 
young  fellow,  not  more  interesting  than  one  of  Walter  Scott's 
young  heroes,  and  has  no  other  function  than  that  of  hold- 
ing the  story  together.  His  youthful  nature  is  fully  described, 
without  hypocrisy  or  dissimulation  ;  nevertheless  there  is 
nothing  in  him  which  fascinates.  The  real  hero  is  not 
Tadeusz,  but  his  father  Jacek,  who  conceals  his  name  and  his 
rank  under  the  cowl  of  the  monk  Robak. 


"PAN    TADEUSZ"  291 

Jacek  has  formerly  killed  Sophia's  father,  the  magnate 
Horeszko,  just  as  he  was  defending  his  castle  against  the 
Russians.  It  is  true  that  the  great  lord  had  rejected 
Jacek  as  a  suitor,  much  as  Count  Ankwicz,  from  whom 
he  is  painted,  had  turned  away  Mickiewicz.  Jacek  never  sees 
the  daughter  Eva  again  (the  very  name  is  preserved),  and 
she  is  forced  into  the  marriage  in  which  Sophia  is  born. 
He  himself  marries  afterwards  without  love,  and  becomes 
the  father  of  Tadeusz,  does  penance  for  the  murder  of 
Horeszko  as  a  Bernardine  monk,  has  Sophia  educated, 
and  watches  over  her  and  his  son  like  a  Providence.  As 
the  murderer  of  Horeszko  he  acquired  the  reputation  of 
having  been  a  tool  of  the  Russians  ;  in  reality  he  is  one 
of  the  trusted  men  of  the  French  government,  and  has  been 
entrusted  with  the  task  of  arranging  a  great  Polish  insur- 
rection. When  he  dies  in  the  victorious  battle  with  the 
Russians,  the  cross  of  the  Legion  of  Honour  is  placed  on 
his  grave. 

In  Jacek's  personality  we  see  as  it  were  Mickiewicz's 
new  poetry  grow  out  of  the  older.  As  a  murderer  through 
injured  pride,  as  the  patient  monk,  who  pays  for  the  untamed 
wildness  of  a  moment  by  the  renunciation  of  a  life-time,  he 
reminds  us  of  the  old  Byronic  heroes,  in  his  nature  closely 
related  to  all  the  romantic  and  passionate  characters  of 
Mickiewicz.  In  certain  ways  he  is  as  true  a  reflection  of  the 
personal  life,  experiences,  and  sentiments  of  the  author  as 
Gustav  and  Conrad.  But  out  of  the  lyrico-romantic  kernel 
of  his  spiritual  life  the  whole  epic  wealth  bursts  forth  as  a 
mighty  oak  grows  from  an  acorn.  The  fate  of  the  individual 
man  is  entirely  absorbed  in  that  of  the  whole  nation,  whose 
vices  and  virtues  are  unfolded  to  the  reader,  as  we  become 
acquainted  with  its  quarrelsomeness,  party  dissensions  and 
inclinations  to  civil  war,  but  also  the  enthusiasm,  which 
makes  it  ready,  as  soon  as  the  blast  from  Europe  reaches 
it,  to  rise  as  one  man  and  realise  its  ideal.  The  blind 
hatred  of  the  earlier  poetry  has  vanished  here.  Plut, 
the  born  Pole,  is  put  to  shame  and  removed  without 
mercy  as  a  deserter.  On  the  other  hand  the  Russian 
Rykow   is   a   brave   and  honest   fellow,  a   little   inclined   to 


292  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

drunkenness — like  the  Poles  themselves — but  incorruptible 
and  good-natured. 

In  the  main  the  description  of  individuals  is  not  at  all 
the  most  important  thing  here.  The  principal  subject  is  the 
broad  description  of  natural  life  and  of  human  life  as  deter- 
mined by  natural  surroundings. 

In  the  description  of  the  bear-hunt  there  is  a  passage 
where  the  Wojski  (a  title  of  honour,  tribune)  of  the  district, 
when  the  bear  is  killed,  plays  a  flourish  on  his  horn  over  the 
dead  bruin.      It  is  as  follows  : — 

"Then  our  Wojski  grasped  his  horn,  which  was  tied 
securely  to  his  belt,  his  buffalo  horn,  long,  with  many 
windings,  like  a  boa — carried  it  to  his  mouth  with  both 
hands.  His  cheeks  are  stretched  like  a  pumpkin,  bloodshot 
his  eyes  burn. 

"  Now  he  drops  his  eyelids,  then  draws  in  his  paunch, 
and  draws  breath  and  wind  into  his  chest  with  all  his  might 
and  blows — like  a  stormblast  whirls  the  roar  away  into  the 
deep  thicket,  where  echo  plays  with  it.  Then  the  huntsmen 
are  dumb  with  astonishment,  fascinated  by  the  melody, 
purity,  force,  and  fulness  of  the  strong  tones.  All  the  art 
which  formerly  won  him  honour,  now  as  an  old  man  he 
displays  once  more  in  the  assembly  of  the  huntsmen.  He 
soon  wakes  the  oaks,  fills  the  woods  round  about,  as  if  he 
were  beginning  a  hunt,  as  if  the  hounds  were  baying  around. 
For  it  was  the  hunt,  painted  in  tones,  strong,  clear.  First 
it  sounds  aloud  into  the  world — the  fanfare  of  the  morning 
signal.  Then  whines  and  howls,  the  sounds  of  a  pack  of 
hounds.  Then  it  thunders  now  and  then,  it  is  the  booming 
of  the  guns  when  they  fire. 

"  Here  he  stopped,  yet  he  did  not  drop  the  horn.  They 
believed  he  was  still  playing,  but  it  was  the  echo.  He  blew 
again,  and  the  horn  was  as  if  enchanted,  now  harsh,  now 
delicate,  wholly  as  the  mouth  of  the  Wojski  treated  it.  He 
imitates  the  voices  of  the  animals.  Just  like  a  wolf's  mouth 
the  horn  now  howls  so  hideously  that  all  hearts  fail.  It 
opens  like  the  throat  of  a  bear  and  sends  out  a  loud  roar. 
Suddenly,  like  the  roar  of  the  wild  ox,  they  feel  it  rend 
the  air. 


"PAN    TADEUSZ"  293 

"  Here  he  stopped,  yet  the  horn  did  not  drop.  They 
believed  he  was  still  playing,  but  it  was  the  echo. 

"  For  the  trees  repeated  the  matchless  work  of  art,  and 
it  resounded  from  beech  to  beech,  from  oak  to  oak. 

"  He  blew  again,  as  if  there  were  hundreds  of  horns  in 
his  horn.  So  the  wild  chase  through  the  grain  of  the 
peasant  is  heard.  Shots,  baying  of  hounds,  the  death  rattle 
of  the  deer — now  he  raises  the  mouth  of  the  horn.  And 
the  triumphal  fanfare  strikes  with  power  against  the  vault  of 
heaven. 

"  Here  he  stopped,  but  the  horn  did  not  drop.  They 
believed  he  was  still  playing,  but  it  was  the  echo. 

"  There  sounded  as  many  horns  as  there  are  trees  in 
the  forest,  as  from  choir  to  choir  it  sped  from  tree  to  tree. 
And  tones  rolling  wider  follow  on  tones,  then  they  become 
softer,  purer,  and  more  tender  till  they  die  away  softly  some- 
where on  the  threshold  of  heaven." 

What  is  said  here  about  the  playing  of  the  Wojski 
expresses  exactly  what  Mickiewicz  had  the  power  to  do. 
Because  he,  the  exile,  dreamed  himself  back  to  his  childish 
impressions  of  nature  and  human  life  in  a  land  which  lay 
in  a  naive  and  motley  civilisation,  outside  of  trade,  but 
with  a  characteristic  stamp  of  handicraft,  outside  of  a 
state  of  police,  but  with  a  recognised  anarchy  of  established 
custom,  he  succeeded  in  making  the  ancient  old  Lithuanian 
forest  speak,  was  able  to  conjure  up  the  wild  and  merry 
hunt  in  the  country,  the  natural  sounds  of  the  animals,  the 
twitter  of  the  birds,  the  growling  of  the  bears,  the  bellow  of 
the  wild  ox,  the  choir  of  all  the  human  voices.  He  rises 
from  the  quiet  whispering  between  beech  and  beech,  oak  and 
oak,  until  it  is  as  if  he  had  the  melody  of  hundreds  of  horns 
in  his  horn,  as  if  he  had  the  voices  of  all  the  deceased 
generations  of  the  land  therein. 

These  voices  are  heard  through  the  poem  ever  in  broader 
i^ood,  ever  in  purer  tone,  giving  utterance  to  the  yearnings 
of  the  country  in  love  and  pain,  hope  and  anger,  wildness 
and  folly,  mirth  and  enthusiasm,  until  it  appears  as  if  the 
whole  heaven  of  Poland  were  filled  by  his  song.     And  when 


294  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

we  have  seen  how  deeply  this  poem  of  his  even  to  this 
day  affects  the  minds  of  the  Poles,  we  are  reminded  of  the 
words  about  the  listeners  to  the  Wojski,  that  it  seemed  to 
them  that  he  was  still  playing  when  he  had  longed  ceased. 
So  completely  does  Mickiewicz  live  in  the  echo  he  has 
evoked. 


IX 

DIVISION  AMONG  THE  POETS  —  DISORGANISATION 
OF  ROMANTICISM— POLISH  LITERATURE  OF 
TO-DAY— CRITICAL   SUMMARY 

Not  one  of  the  three  great  romantic  poets  sang  for  long. 
Mickiewicz  did  not  publish  any  more  poems  after  1840, 
though  he  lived  thirteen  years  longer.  And  Slowacki,  who 
died  in  1849,  when  only  thirty-seven,  wrote  almost  nothing 
in  the  last  three  years  of  his  life. 

Rivalry  and  difference  of  opinion  separated  them  widely 
in  the  forties. 

The  rupture  between  Mickiewicz  and  Slowacki  was  most 
complete.  Slowacki's  ill-fortune  and  his  irritable  nature, 
as  well  as  a  somewhat  unjustifiable  coldness  on  the  part 
of  Mickiewicz,  had  constantly  kept  the  former  at  a  distance 
from  his  more  fortunate  rival  in  the  admiration  of  his  country- 
men. Nevertheless  there  was  a  moment  when  they  met 
in  unison  ;  some  days  after  the  Slav  lectures  by  Mickiewicz 
at  the  College  of  France  had  been  begun  during  the 
Christmas  of  1840,  the  Polish  emigrants  in  Paris  arranged 
a  dinner  for  him.  At  this  festivity  Slowacki  was  also 
present  ;  Pan  Tadeusz  had  made  him  forget  all  his  earlier 
injuries  and  all  his  old  rancour.  He  even  rose  and  in 
improvised  verse  celebrated  the  guest  of  honour  as  the 
first  singer  of  their  common  fatherland.  The  best  of  his 
spiritual  life  broke  through  here.  He  sacrificed  none  of  his 
dignity  ;  there  was  a  touch  of  bitterness  in  the  way  in  which 
he  alluded  to  his  own  fate,  and  a  melancholy  pride  in  the 
hope  he  expressed  that  he  also  in  his  way  had  rendered 
services  his  fatherland  would  value ;  but  he  addressed 
Mickiewicz  with  heartiness,  and  gave  him  his  homage  with 
sincere  warmth.  He  declaimed  his  improvisation  with  so 
much  enthusiasm  that   he  won   universal   applause,   except 


296  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

from  some  fanatical  admirers  of  Mickiewicz,  who  were 
instantly  offended  at  liis  comparing  his  talent  and  fate  with 
that  of  the  great  man.  Mickiewicz  gave  a  comparatively 
friendly  answer,  also  in  verse,  probably  the  last  verses  he 
ever  composed.  There  was  some  severity  in  his  criticism 
of  Slowacki's  works  and  character — he  advised  him  to 
control  his  pride  of  spirit — but  he  also  said  flattering  things 
to  him,  and  mentioned  that  he  himself  in  his  day  at  Wilna 
had  prophesied  to  Slowacki's  mother  the  coming  honour 
of  her  son.  The  two  poets  embraced  each  other,  the 
bystanders  embraced  them  with  tears  in  their  eyes,  and 
the  old  enmity  seemed  to  be  a  thing  of  the  past. 

But  soon  after,  a  final  breach  was  brought  about  by  a 
trifling  cause,  a  silver  bowl,  which  Slowacki  was  asked  to 
present  to  Mickiewicz  in  memory  of  this  festival.  Slowacki 
regarded  this  request  as  an  insult,  an  imputation  of  vassal- 
age, and  when  he  refused,  the  new  Catholic  journals  of  the 
emigrants  fell  upon  him  and  attacked  his  best  poems,  and 
those  of  his  friend  Krasinski.  He  responded  by  attacking 
the  bUnd  admirers  of  Mickiewicz,  and  described  their  conduct 
towards  him  and  his  friend,  after  which  the  papers  gave 
erroneous  accounts  of  what  had  happened  at  the  festival 
between  the  two  improvisatores.  Slowacki  expected  that 
Mickiewicz  would  now  give  an  account  of  the  actual 
occurrence,  but  when  he  wrapt  himself  up  in  a  dignified 
silence,  exasperation  took  such  hold  upon  Slowacki  that  it 
inspired  him.  He  published  Beniowski,  a  poem  in  the  style 
of  Byron's  Don  Juan  and  Musset's  Namouna,  in  which  the 
material  was  only  a  pretext  for  lyrical  and  emotional  or 
scornful  and  pugnacious  digressions  from  the  main  subject ; 
and  here  he  attacked  Micl^iewicz's  adherents,  "  the  Jesuits 
of  the  emigrants,"  as  he  called  them,  scourged  them  with 
passion  and  wit,  and  settled  his  relation  to  Mickiewicz, 
made  a  brief  abstract  of  his  improvisation,  and  in  con- 
clusion, threw  at  him  this  challenge  :  *'  We  are  two  gods, 
each  of  whom  rules  upon  his  own  sun.  ...  I  will  not  go 
with  you  on  your  wild  path,  but  by  quite  another  path,  my 
own,  and  the  people  will  follow  me." 

At  this  point  in  Slowacki's  literary  life,  Krasinski  came 


SOCIALISM    AMONG    THE    EXILES  297 

publicly  to  his  aid  ;  in  a  somewhat  lengthy  article — the 
anonymity  of  which  deceived  no  one — he  sought  to  adjudi- 
cate between  Mickiewicz  and  him,  attributing  to  each  his 
great  qualities,  and  to  each  his  own  sphere.  He  attributes  to 
Mickiewicz  centripetal,  to  Slowacki  centrifugal  force  ;  to  the 
former  plastic  talent,  and  to  the  latter  musical,  laying  stress 
on  Slowacki's  extraordinary  control  of  language.  With 
some  inordinate  and  diffuse  comparisons,  he  finally  char- 
acterises Mickiewicz  as  the  Michael  Angelo  of  form,  while 
Slowacki,  he  says,  corresponds  to  "  Correggio  and  Raphael, 
or  to  Beethoven."  The  intention  at  least  was  good  enough, 
and  from  that  time  the  reputation  of  Slowacki  was  on  the 
rise.  Thus  the  faith  was  justified  which  led  Slowacki  in 
his  time  to  symbolise  his  relation  to  Krasinski  by  that  of 
the  twin  brothers.  Lei  and  Polel,  who,  bound  together  with 
an  iron  chain,  constitute,  as  it  were,  one  single  person  in 
the  contest,  the  one  wielding  the  sword,  the  other  the  shield. 

But  soon  this  bond,  apparently  so  strong,  was  to  break. 
In  the  first  half  of  the  forties,  political  life  among  the 
Polish  emigrants  had  reached  its  apogee.  They  had  an 
instinct  that  a  general  European  outburst  of  revolutionary 
passions  was  imminent,  and  they  gladly  anticipated  its 
coming  in  the  belief  that  an  insurrection  was  the  only 
means  of  restoring  Poland.  Towianski's  sect  had  created 
a  mental  ferment,  but  the  most  efifective  group  among  the 
emigrants  was  the  Democratic  Society  which  had  its  seat 
first  at  Poitiers,  and  afterwards  at  Versailles.  It  arranged 
a  general  revolt,  which  was  to  begin  in  Austrian  and 
Prussian  Poland,  and  since  it  justly  contended  that  a  revolt 
could  not  succeed  without  the  help  of  the  peasants,  it 
addressed  itself  through  secret  messengers  and  pamphlets 
to  the  common  people.  In  order  to  win  them,  it  suggested 
a  new  partition  of  the  soil,  and  thus  raised  a  threat  against 
the  landed  proprietors.  Pamphlets,  the  most  important  of 
which  were  signed  with  the  pseudonym  Prawdowski,  carried 
on  the  revolutionary  propaganda  by  declamations  against 
the  part  which  the  aristocracy  and  clergy  had  played  in  the 
history  of  Poland. 

His  dread  of  freethinking,  and  his  aversion  to  demagogues 


298  IMPRESSIONS    OP^    POLAND 

and  socialists  led  Krasinski,  in  1845,  under  the  pseudonym, 
Spiridion  Prawdzicki,  to  write  against  Prawdowski  three 
psalms  (of  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity),  fascinating  in  their 
verbal  diction,  but  mystical  in  their  preaching  of  prayer  and 
moral  self-purification  as  the  only  permissible  means  of  con- 
tending with  oppression,  unjustly  aggressive  in  their  concep- 
tion of  the  democrats  as  bloodhounds.  Although  he  was 
so  full  of  faith  personally  in  the  superior  virtues,  heroism, 
chivalry,  &c.,  of  the  nobility,  he  did  not  deny  their  past  sins, 
but  appealed  to  the  men,  who,  with  childlike  cruelty,  shouted 
for  their  blood,  "  to  throw  away  the  knife." 

These  psalms  so  greatly  irritated  Slowacki  that  he 
allowed  himself  to  be  drawn  into  a  poetic  answer,  "  To  the 
Author  of  the  three  Psalms."  With  warmth  and  force,  but 
also  with  bitter  scorn  he  refutes  the  doctrine  of  the  right 
and  use  of  passive  resistance,  and  scoffs  at  Krasinski  as 
the  distinguished  son  of  the  nobility,  who,  tender  of  the 
welfare  of  the  privileged  class,  sees  dangers  everywhere  for 
the  poor  nobleman  :  "  Who  has  threatened  you  with  the 
knife  ?  .  .  .  Perhaps  the  light  has  penetrated  through  the 
red  curtains  of  your  windows  ;  it  has  seemed  to  you  to 
look  like  blood,  and  you  shout.  Do  not  murder  the  Szlachta. 
I  am  humble  enough  not  to  curse  any  intellectual  move- 
ment. Moreover,  do  not  believe  that  the  divine  idea  only 
unfolds  itself  under  the  direction  of  angels ;  God  often 
allows  it  to  be  born  in  blood,  and  He  sometimes  sends 
it  with  Mongols."  Against  Slowacki's  wish  and  design  this 
poem  was  published. 

The  horrors  of  Galicia,  which  broke  out  immediately 
after,  came  as  if  to  give  the  lie  to  Slowacki.  Under  the 
guidance  of  Austrian  agents  and  liberated  galley  slaves  (like 
that  Szela  who  caused  the  whole  family  of  Bohusz,  twenty- 
two  persons,  to  be  put  to  death),  in  1846,  8000  Polish 
soldiers  to  whom  furlough  had  been  given,  persuaded  the 
peasants  in  Galicia  to  believe  that  the  Tzar  had  emanci- 
pated them,  but  that  the  nobility  prevented  their  exemption 
from  service  in  the  army,  and  a  new  partition  of  the  land. 
They  rose  up  as  one  man  against  their  lords  in  the  three 
bloody  days  which  have  been  already  spoken  of. 


KRASINSKI    AND    SLOWACKI  299 

Although  it  was  not  the  democrats  of  Poland,  but  dis- 
tinguished members  of  the  Austrian  Government  who  were 
behind  these  murders,  still  they  showed  how  easy  it  was  to 
turn  the  Polish  peasants  into  madmen.  Krasinski's  pro- 
phetic soul  was  justified,  and  in  the  year  1848  he  responded 
to  Slowacki's  poem  with  the  Psalm  of  Sadness. 

It  is  true  that  a  superficial  reconciliation  between  the 
two  former  friends  was  brought  about,  but  still  their  last 
literary  relation  to  each  other  was  marked  by  jarring  dis- 
cord. In  Slowacki's  posthumous  play,  The  Incorrigibles, 
Krasinski  is  caricatured  as  Count  Phantasius  Dafnicki,  who 
sets  out  to  marry  a  fortune  ;  nay,  even  his  inamorata, 
Delphine  Potocka,  is  caricatured  as  the  divorced  Countess 
Idalia,  who  accompanies  him  everywhere.  And  in  Kra- 
sinski's great  posthumous  work,  The  Unfinished  Poem,  in 
the  suite  of  the  demagogue  Pancratius,  Slovvacki  appears 
under  the  name  of  Julinicz,  as  the  popular  prophet,  who 
introduces  himself  with  the  outburst :  "  I  am  a  great  man, 
a  prophetic  spirit,  place,  place,"  proclaiming  with  unhealthy 
enthusiasm  his  contempt  for  Christianity,  and  that  indiffer- 
ence for  human  life  which  was  expressed  in  his  Krol  Duch. 

In  1848  Slowacki  laid  before  his  countrymen  in  Paris 
his  plan  for  an  insurrectionary  league  among  the  Poles. 
He  went  to  Posen  to  induce  the  national  committee  there  to 
adopt  it,  and  take  part  in  the  contest.  But  the  revolt  was 
then  near  its  end.  The  battles  of  the  29th  of  April  and 
the  2nd  of  May  prepared  the  Poles  for  final  defeat.  After 
having  seen  his  mother  once  more  at  Breslau,  Slowacki 
turned  back  to  Paris,  and  died  the  year  after,  of  a  tedious 
and  painful  illness. 

In  the  great  revolutionary  year,  1848,  the  Polish  emigra- 
tion had  played  out  its  part.  Although  national  movements 
and  efforts  in  this  year  had  been  so  vigorous,  not  a  single 
new  State  arose  on  a  national  foundation,  nay,  States  (like 
Austria)  which  the  carrying  out  of  the  principle  of  nation- 
ality would  have  shattered,  came  out  of  the  crisis  more 
powerful  than  ever.  But  so  far  as  the  Poles  are  concerned 
this  made  little  impression.  The  romantic  ideals,  whose 
central  point  was  the  speedy  regeneration  of  the  kingdom, 


300  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

still  controlled  the  minds  of  all ;  though  after  the  great 
poets  became  silent,  Romanticism  could  no  longer  take  so 
high  a  flight.  The  terrible  collapse  of  1863  was  the  first 
decisive  thing  which  awakened  the  people  out  of  their 
dream-life,  and  showed  them  the  reality  as  it  was. 

From  this  point  in  the  literature  of  Poland,  history  and 
historical  criticism  have  driven  poetry  into  the  background. 
In  opposition  to  the  old  ideals  and  watchwords,  a  new  ideal 
has  arisen,  that  of  the  historic  truth,  and  a  new  watchword, 
labour,  and  the  most  eminent  writer  and  poet  of  the  next 
succeeding  age  was  the  man  who  has  most  energetically 
extolled  the  importance  of  labour  for  his  nation,  and  who 
has  himself  set  an  example  in  taking  his  task  in  literature 
as  that  of  a  workman  on  the  grandest  scale.  Joseph  Ignatius 
Kraszewski  (18 12-1886)  who,  in  1879,  on  his  jubilee  as  an 
author,  was  visited  by  delegates  from  all  quarters  of  Poland 
with  gifts  and  letters  of  honorary  citizenship  as  the  greatest 
Hving  national  author  of  Poland,  had  at  that  time  published 
four  hundred  and  forty  volumes,  without  collaborators,  and 
if  articles  scattered  here  and  there  are  included,  perhaps  six 
hundred  volumes  in  all.  As  a  writer  of  romances  he  pre- 
vented the  higher  classes  from  forgetting  their  nationality  by 
exclusive  reading  of  foreign  books,  and  taught  the  nation  to 
know  itself,  in  so  much  as  he  assailed  the  national  delusions 
alternately  in  journalistic  and  poetic  form,  and  as  an  energetic 
educator  of  the  people  showed  the  Poles  what  duties  their 
political  misfortunes  had  laid  upon  them  in  a  higher  degree 
than  upon  other  nations. 

Kraszewski  wrote  historical  romances,  modern  novels, 
fables,  recollections,  poems,  comedies,  books  of  travel, 
published  popular  books,  and  books  for  the  young  of 
ethnographical,  archaeological,  historical,  and  philosophical 
import,  was  a  theatrical  director,  editor  of  a  daily  paper, 
and  a  political  writer,  as  well  as  an  illustrator,  designer,  and 
etcher  ;  in  brief,  this  one  man  distributed  writings  like  a 
Bible  Society,  and  strove  in  these  writings  to  form  a  national 
school  for  his  people.  It  goes  without  saying  that  such 
fecundity  was  not  combined  with  that  artistic  perfection 
which  was  the  glory  of  the  romantic  poems.     Nevertheless, 


ADAM    ASNYK  301 

romances  like  Morituri  and  Resurrecturi,  novels  like  Ulana, 
and  above  all,  the  extremely  interesting  Potter  Jermola, 
are  works  of  real  value. 

At  the  present  time  Poland  has  no  author  of  the  first 
rank,  although  it  does  not  lack  eminent  talent  in  different 
directions.  In  Adam  Asnyk  Poland  has  a  graceful  lyric  poet, 
in  Boleslaw  Prus  (Alexander  Glowacki),  a  humorous  and 
sensitive  novelist.  This  last  author,  a  self-taught  writer,  a 
bold  and  truth-loving  journalist,  is  one  of  the  men  whose 
influence  is  most  important,  and  who  will  prove  most  instru- 
mental in  forming  the  new  times  in  Poland. 

Asnyk  was  born  at  Kalisz  in  1836,  the  son  of  a  father 
who  had  been  a  captain  in  the  disbanded  Polish  army. 
From  his  nineteenth  year  he  studied  medicine  at  the 
academy  at  Warsaw,  and  later  at  the  Universities  of  Breslau 
and  Heidelberg,  and  returned  in  i860  to  the  capital  in 
order  to  lend  his  aid  to  the  organisation  of  the  secret 
military  force,  which  the  young  people  in  their  resentment 
and  heat  intended  to  direct  against  the  Russian  power.  He 
then  took  his  share  in  the  arrangements  for  the  Revolution 
of  1863,  a  movement  which  remains  a  monument  alike  to 
the  heroism  and  the  lack  of  political  judgment  of  its  pro- 
moters. He  had  already  been  arrested  in  i860  and  placed 
under  police  surveillance  ;  he  then  went  to  Heidelberg  and 
stayed  there  until  the  outbreak  of  the  revolt  recalled  him, 
and  other  Poles  studying  at  foreign  universities,  to  Warsaw. 
He  displayed  such  vigour  and  determination  that  although 
only  twenty-live  years  old  he  was  placed  at  the  head  of  the 
movement,  and  elected  a  member  of  the  secret  national 
government,  which,  under  that  gentle  and  loyal  hero, 
Micesyslow  Siczicki,  issued  secret  orders,  which  were  obeyed 
by  all  Poles,  while  the  commands  of  the  imperial  authorities 
became  dead  letters. 

After  the  definitive  triumph  of  the  Russians,  Siczicki 
would  not  leave  Warsaw.  He  was  accordingly  sent  on 
foot  to  Siberia,  where  he  remained  twenty  years.  Asnyk 
fled  to  Austrian  Poland,  where  he  settled,  first  at  Lemberg 
for  a  short  time,  then  at  Cracow,  where  every  friend  of 
Poland  was  sure  of  a  welcome  at  his  house.     He  travelled 


302  IMPRESSIONS    OP^    POLAND 

to  Switzerland,  Holland,  England,  and  Italy,  and  he  has 
written  on  subjects  suggested  by  these  travels.  But  his 
spiritual  life  has  been  dominated  entirely  by  the  impression 
left  on  it  by  the  failure  of  the  revolt  of  1863,  namely,  that 
all  hope  of  an  independent  Poland  must  be  abandoned,  at 
least  during  his  lifetime.  He  lost  all  faith  in  historical 
progress.  The  anguish  he  had  gone  through  determined 
his  manner  of  feeling  for  the  rest  of  his  life,  his  constant 
pessimism,  his  melancholy  and  doubt.  Never  again  has  he 
seen  Russian  Poland.  But  far  from  charging  the  calamities 
upon  the  comrades  of  his  youth,  as  many  others  have  done, 
he  continued  to  communicate  with  them — with  Siczicki, 
with  Karol  Benni,  with  all  who  still  frequent  Benni's  house 
in  Warsaw.  They  always  hold  their  patriotic,  but  politically 
innocent  meetings  there.  He  published  his  poems  (a 
selection  of  which  appeared  in  a  mediocre  German  transla- 
tion) under  the  pseudonym  El — y,  and  took  an  active  part 
in  the  public  life  of  Galicia.  He  became  a  prominent 
member  of  the  democratic  party,  and  (from  a  sense  of 
duty,  and  without  any  pleasure  in  his  task)  editor  of 
a  great  political  paper,  finally  founding  The  Society  of  Public 
Schools,  the  efforts  of  which  have  been  marked  by  such  con- 
stant success. 

In  addition,  there  are  two  men  of  very  great  ability, 
both  a  little  over  forty  years  of  age,  who  are  the  most 
important  representatives  of  light  literature. 

Alexander  Swientochowski  is  of  noble  birth,  but  without  the 
aristocratic  stamp,  the  man  of  modern  times,  the  funda- 
mental spokesman  of  free  thought,  the  representative  of  the 
advanced  culture  of  Europe  ;  of  strong  will  and  character, 
possessing  a  vigorous  style  and  strong  in  argument,  as  an 
author  wholly  identifying  himself  with  his  principles.  His 
dramas  are  without  artistic  value,  but  his  novels,  Chawa 
Rubin,  Damian  Capenko,  Karl  Krug,  apart  from  their  moral 
endeavour  to  teach  the  Poles  humanity  towards  foreigners 
on  the  soil  of  Poland,  the  Jewess,  the  Little  Russian,  the 
German, — have  a  compact  and  concentrated  form  of  high 
artistic  merit.  The  novel  Clemens  Boruta  develops  the  drama 
of  starvation  with  poetic  force. 


HENRYK    SIENKIEWICZ  303 

Henryk  Sienkiewicz,  Poland's  favourite  author,  presents  a 
sharp  contrast  to  the  untiring  agitator  Swientochowski.  He 
has  a  patrician  nature,  with  a  rich  and  versatile  talent,  at  once 
emotional  and  bitterly  satirical.  He  has  reached  his  highest 
point,  and  shown  himself  a  keen  realist  in  the  spiritual 
domain,  in  his  Charcoal  Drawings  (Szice-weglem),  the  affect- 
ing story  of  how  a  poor  young  peasant  wife  is  driven  to  sell 
herself  in  order  to  free  her  husband  from  military  service,  a 
masterpiece.  He  is  excellent  in  the  very  short  story  {The 
Lighthouse,  The  Angel),  picturesque  in  representation  and  full 
of  glowing  intensity.  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  of  late  years  he 
has  been  absorbed  in  the  production  of  endless  historical 
novels,  in  the  style  of  the  elder  Dumas,  which  have  made 
his  name  widely  popular,  and  produce  a  large  income. 

And  yet  Pan  Tadeusz  had  already  pointed  out  to  later 
poetry  the  way  towards  real  life,  the  peculiar  life  of  the 
century,  and  in  fact  inaugurated  the  epoch  of  Polish  realism. 
It  cannot  be  long  before  the  conviction  makes  its  way,  that 
if  the  authors  of  Poland  of  our  time  would  compete  with 
the  best  authors  of  Europe,  with  those  like  the  great  prose 
writers  of  France  and  Russia,  it  is  absolutely  necessary 
that  they  should  turn  their  backs  on  the  distant  past,  and 
limit  themselves  to  the  one  domain,  where  it  is  possible  for 
the  author  wholly  to  escape  convention,  and  to  be  not  only 
inspired  but  true. 

It  is  only  natural  that  the  fancy  of  Polish  writers  should 
have,  to  an  extent  unprecedented  elsewhere,  continued  to 
revolve  about  the  past.  Since  the  Polish  people  as  a  people 
has  been  condemned  to  practical  inactivity,  the  past  must 
appear  to  them  as  their  last  most  glorious  possession,  and 
so,  even  after  the  decline  of  genuine  Romanticism,  Polish 
poets  long  continued  to  dwell  on  the  memories  of  the 
past,  which  they  found  in  books,  instead  of  reproducing 
a  life  fully  as  interesting  which  flowed  unheeded  past  them. 
The  strong  artistic  impulse  towards  the  past,  nevertheless, 
depends  in  the  last  instance  on  the  superstition,  that  the  past, 
or,  as  it  is  called,  history,  alone  admits  a  representation  of 
the  ideal.  But  perhaps  we  shall  see  that  the  historical  is  as 
negligible  in  poetry  as  the  spirituaUstic.      In  the  flourishing 


304  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

age  of  Polish  Romanticism  nothing  could  be  told  or  repre- 
sented dramatically  in  which  spirits  did  not  play  a  part, 
frequently  a  chief  part.  They  seemed  more  poetic  and  more 
ideal  than  men  of  flesh  and  blood.  They  took  the  place  of 
the  gods  in  the  ancient  poems,  even  intruded  in  contemporary 
subjects  as  in  Dziady,  and  in  historic  drama,  as  in  Slowacki's 
Cenci.  The  conjuring  up  of  the  figures  of  the  remote  past 
in  Polish  romantic  literature  may  be  a  new,  and  only  a 
slightly  less  abstract  spiritualism.  For  these  also  may  often 
be  classified  as  good  and  evil  spirits. 

There  is  only  one  future  for  Poland's  literature,  after 
its  days  of  Romanticism  are  over,  and  that  is  to  become  a 
modern,  a  living  expression  of  the  life  of  our  own  time. 

The  whole  intellectual  life,  the  whole  literary  world  of 
Poland  for  a  long  time  turned  upon  the  question  of  its 
existence.  We  have  seen  that  this  question  developed  into 
the  question  of  the  reality  of  the  loftiest  ideas.  But  it 
goes  without  saying  that  the  literature  of  a  people  cannot 
everlastingly  continue  to  turn  upon  so  abstract  a  theme. 
The  fundamental  emotion,  to  which  the  romantic  literature 
of  Poland  gave  expression,  is  not  likely  to  disappear,  but 
it  cannot  continue  to  be  predominant  without  impoverishing 
her  literature. 

The  too  predominant  sensations  of  feelings  of  cohesion, 
of  common  sufferings  and  common  exertions,  the  continual 
playing  on  a  single  string,  must  prevent  individuals  from 
coming  forward  in  literature  in  all  their  originality.  Because 
they  are  continually  regarded  as  a  link  in  a  whole, 
sharing  pleasures  and  disappointment  with  others,  they  do 
not  reach  the  depth  of  the  agony  of  existence.  They  are 
not  represented  as  solitary  enough.  If  it  is  an  evil  not  to  see 
the  wood  for  the  trees,  then  it  is  also  an  evil  not  to  see  the 
trees  for  the  wood.  No  doubt  we  find  here  in  the  youthful 
works  of  the  poets  enough  of  the  half-assumed  sensation  of 
loneliness  of  the  Byronic  heroes.  But  the  loneliness  of  the  un- 
complaining man  obtains  no  expression.  It  is  in  consonance 
with  this  that  the  characters  in  this  literature,  in  spite  of  all 
the  hardships  and  evils  which  shower  down  upon  them 
from  without,  are   not  unhappy  enough.     The  misfortunes 


LACK    OF    HUMOUR  305 

whose  stage  is  the  outer  world,  are  found  here  in  abundance. 
But  the  greatest  tragedy,  that  of  which  the  human  soul  may 
be  the  theatre,  even  without  any  special  pursuit  of  a  hostile 
fate,  is  not  presented  to  the  reader's  consciousness  in  the 
same  degree.  These  poets  have  so  naturally  felt  impelled 
to  say  a  consoling,  hopeful  word  to  their  readers,  that  they 
have  not  sounded  misery  to  the  lowest  depth  with  their 
imaginative  power.  And  on  the  other  side  the  romantic 
literary  group  of  Poland,  rich  as  it  is,  has  this  defect,  that 
it  has  allowed  very  little  scope  to  the  comic  elements  of 
existence.  Thus  it  lacks  a  full  grasp  of  human  life,  its 
whole  intensity.  It  seems  as  if  the  sense  of  the  comic 
were  not  very  strong  or  very  widespread  among  the  Polish 
people.  The  poets,  who  like  Fredro  have  had  a  sharp  eye 
for  it,  have  not  used  their  talent  for  the  comic  in  the  service 
of  the  more  elevated  ideas,  and  the  poets,  who,  like  the 
romanticists,  have  laboured  in  the  name  of  ideas,  have 
shown  little  skill  in  the  use  of  laughter  either  as  a  weapon 
or  as  the  expression  of  cheerfulness. 

There  is  a  gleam  of  humour  diffused  throughout  Pan 
Tadeusz,  which  could  not  be  more  delicately  beautiful,  but 
it  is  weak,  and  the  poet  has  not  succeeded  in  making  a 
really  comic  impression  when  he  intends  to.  Thus  the 
Count  now  and  then  becomes  tedious  when  he  ought  to 
be  comic.  With  a  better  developed  sense  of  humour 
Mickiewicz  again  would  not  have  produced  a  figure  like 
Gustav  in  Dziady.  He  is  unintentionally  comic  when  he 
ought  to  be  most  impressive.  Neither  does  Slowacki  ever 
achieve  a  strong  comic  effect.  His  comic  secondary  char- 
acters are  never  observed  from  real  life,  but  constantly 
remind  us  either  of  a  Shakesperean  clown  or  of  a  Calderonian 
Gracioso,  and  at  best  create  a  smile,  never  laughter.  He 
really  produces  a  comic  effect  only  when  he  does  not  in- 
tend to,  as  in  depicting  the  achievements  of  his  sottish  and 
desperate  hero  Lambro.  Finally,  however  alien  comic 
effects  are  to  a  talent  like  Krasinski's,  still  the  drawing  of  the 
character  of  the  Italian  baron  in  The  Unfinished  Poem  shows 
that  he  possessed  undeveloped  ability  in  that  direction.  It 
is  a  pity  that  he  did  not  in  the  least  feel  the  impulse  to  use 

u 


3o6  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

it.  There  would  have  been  a  fine  scope  for  comic  effects 
in  The  Godless  Comedy,  Pancratius  and  his  associates  would 
have  gained  thereby. 

Generally  speaking,  it  may  be  said  that  a  more  widely 
diffused  and  more  delicate  sense  of  the  comic  among  the 
leading  persons  of  the  nation  would  have  prevented  several 
of  the  excesses  of  the  romantic  heroes,  driven  the  romantic 
ghosts  and  witches  more  into  the  background,  and  sharpened 
the  delineation  of  a  crowd  of  secondary  characters. 

The  lack  of  the  comic  element  in  this  literature  has  a 
triple  reason  ;  first,  the  serious,  nay,  melancholy  temper  of 
the  public  for  whom  the  poets  wrote,  secondly,  their 
strenuous  conception  of  their  calling,  for  they  regarded 
themselves  as  the  teachers  and  leaders  of  the  people,  never 
as  their  maitres  de  plaisir;  finally,  the  exaggerated  idealism  of 
the  Polish  intellectual  life  of  this  century. 

This  idealism,  which  naturally  has  engendered  no  little 
boldness  in  expressing  an  unwelcome  conviction  or  a  burning 
protest,  excluded  the  bold  and  many-sided  conception  and 
description  of  human  nature.  Polish  Romanticism  lacks  the 
strong  contrasts  which  produce  the  impression  of  the  comic, 
because  it  has  represented  man  too  exclusively  from  the 
intellectual  side.  That  man  is  first  and  foremost  a  being  with 
necessities,  not  a  being  with  ideas,  is  here  suppressed  or  glossed 
over.  That  strong  erotic  or  political  passion  is  an  exception 
in  human  life  we  note  as  little  in  this  romantic  literature  as 
in  others.  But  there  is  perhaps  no  literature  in  which  the 
life  of  the  senses  and  instincts,  which  is  the  foundation  of  all 
passions,  is  so  set  aside,  or — where  it  could  not  be  wholly 
passed  over — is  so  foreshortened  and  placed  in  the  back- 
ground. Therefore  we  shall  seek  in  vain  for  more  sexless 
love-making  than  that  which  is  described  in  the  romantic 
literature  of  Poland,  in  Slowacki's  In  Switzerland,  in  Kra- 
sinski's  Aurora,  &c.  We  are  actually  astonished  at  the  note 
and  the  key  which  Telimene  puts  into  the  hand  of  the  hero 
in  Pan  Tadeusz,  and  yet  this  is  all  that  we  learn  of  the  relation 
between  the  two.  But  where  the  whole  sensual  entity  of 
man,  and  therewith  one  of  the  strongest  elements  of  contrast 
between  spiritual  struggles  and  earthly  instincts  is  omitted 


VITAL    ELEMENT    OF    ROMANTICISM         307 

in  the  picture,  there  the  tragic  hemisphere  in  poetry  must 
necessarily  lack  the  supplement  which  the  comic  hemisphere 
supplies. 

Perhaps,  nevertheless,  what  is  most  wanting  in  this  epoch 
of  Polish  literature  is,  as  was  to  be  expected,  the  expression 
of  the  peaceful  pleasures  of  life.  It  contains  much  love, 
but  no  contentment.  It  is  a  great  exception  when  a  char- 
acter appears  who  now  and  then  breathes  fully  and  freely. 

Still,  what  this  epoch  possesses  is  rich  and  abundant  ; 
an  earnestness  so  great,  that  no  other  literature  in  Europe 
is  so  intensely  earnest,  a  pathos  so  deep,  that  only  the 
greatest  tragic  authors  of  Greece  and  England  speak  in 
such  a  strain,  and  an  enthusiasm  so  lofty  and  pure,  that  it 
is  only  occasionally  manifested  in  other  countries.  Nowhere 
else  do  we  see  a  whole  generation  carried  away  as  here 
by  it. 

As  a  form  of  art  Romanticism  is  dead,  a  thing  of  the 
past.  Its  heroes  and  heroines,  its  spirits  and  witches,  in  part 
even  its  language  and  style  are  antiquated.  Nevertheless, 
there  is  a  Romanticism  which  outlives  forms  of  art  and 
schools  of  art,  and  which  still  preserves  its  vitality  and 
worth.  It  is  the  element  of  healthy  enthusiasm,  which  every 
strong  human  emotion  can  assume  when  it  is  refined  and 
intensified  beyond  the  average.  Without  any  background 
whatsoever  of  superstition,  and  without  relation  to  anything 
supernatural,  our  feelings  for  nature,  for  the  woods  and 
fields,  the  sea  and  the  heavens,  may  assume  this  form  of 
romantic  ecstasy,  and  in  even  higher  degree  emotions  like 
love,  friendship,  love  between  parents  and  children,  love  of 
language  and  native  land,  and  common  memories  may 
take  a  like  form. 

In  few  literatures  has  this  abiding  Romanticism  attained 
to  an  expression  of  such  beauty  as  in  the  Polish. 


CONCLUSION 

Passing  through  the  side  wing  of  the  great  KremHn  palace 
at  Moscow,  which  contains  the  armoury  (Orusheinaya  Palata), 
we  see,  in  the  lower  storey,  twenty-two  marble  busts  of  Polish 
kings  and  distinguished  Poles;  in  the  storey  above,  in  the 
large  round  hall,  the  Polish  throne,  and,  near  by,  the  crown 
worn  by  the  last  king  of  Poland,  Stanislaus  Augustus  ;  and 
finally,  in  the  adjoining  room  (opposite  Charles  XI I. 's  sedan 
chair,  taken  at  the  battle  at  Poltawa),  sixty  Polish  banners, 
captured  from  1831  to  1863,  with  Polish  inscriptions,  torn  by 
bullets,  and  to  the  right  of  these,  on  the  floor,  a  beautifully 
made  closed  casket.  In  this  casket  is  deposited  the  constitu- 
tion of  the  3rd  of  May  1791.  "Poland's  patent  of  nobility 
among  the  people  of  Europe"  has  become  an  object  in  a 
museum.  A  Russian  who  accompanied  me  to  the  Kremlin, 
in  spite  of  his  nationality,  made  the  remark :  "  It  makes  a 
melancholy  impression  to  see  the  banners  and  the  casket 
here."  How  strange  it  must  be  for  a  Pole,  with  any  national 
feeling,  to  see  the  great  men  of  his  country,  the  insignia 
which  were  the  symbols  of  the  dignity  of  his  fatherland  as 
an  independent  power,  its  ensigns  with  the  white  eagle,  nay, 
even  the  Magna  Charta,  which  his  people,  in  the  most  supreme 
moment  of  its  life,  formed  for  its  future,  and  which  was 
never  rightfully  displaced,  exhibited  here  in  the  imperial 
palace  of  a  foreign  capital,  as  curiosities  for  the  amusement 
of  spectators  !  It  must  be  like  reading  one's  own  name  on 
a  tombstone. 

To  be  fought  against,  to  be  persecuted,  to  be  treated  as 
a  criminal,  when  you  are  in  the  right,  may  be  borne  ;  but 
to  see  yourself  treated  as  dead,  to  see  your  memories,  your 
pride,  your  banner,  your  charter  exhibited  to  the  scorn  of 

another    as    his    possessions,  as  trinkets  found  in  a  grave, 

308 


POLAND    THE    TYPE    OF    FREEDOM         309 

that  is  to  see  with  your  own  eyes,  with  your  own  hands  to 
grasp  the  complete  destruction  of  that  for  which  you  Hve — 
and  yet  to  go  on  living  and  believing  in  it. 

Again  and  again  we  return  to  the  thought ;  How 
symbolical  this  Poland  is !  For  in  this  period,  what  other 
lot  than  that  of  the  Pole  has  every  one  had,  who  has  loved 
freedom  and  wished  it  well  ?  What  else  has  he  experienced 
but  defeat  ?  When  has  he  seen  a  gleam  of  sunlight  ?  When 
has  he  heard  a  signal  of  advance  ?  Everywhere,  everywhere 
the  fanfare  of  the  violent,  or  the  organ  peal  of  the  bold- 
faced hypocrite  !  And  everywhere  stupidity  as  bodyguard 
of  the  lie,  and  everywhere  veneration  for  that  which  is  paltry, 
and  everywhere  the  same  vulgar  disdain  for  the  only  thing 
which  is  holy. 

Yes,  Poland,  thou  art  the  great  symbol.  The  symbol  of 
pinioned  freedom,  whose  neck  is  trodden  upon,  symbol  of 
those  who  lack  any  outlook,  yet  hope  against  all  probability, 
in  spite  of  all. 

When  the  foreigner  sees  thee  covered  with  thy  mantle  of 
snow  in  the  winter  time,  then  it  seems  to  him  as  if  the  cold 
and  the  snow,  and  the  eternally  gloomy  heavens,  were  so  in 
harmony  with  thy  being  that  he  can  hardly  imagine  these 
bare  trees  covered  with  leaves,  these  streets  and  roads  free 
from  snow,  these  heavens  pure  and  warm,  this  land  without 
winter. 

But  if  he  comes  to  Warsaw  on  a  summer  day  when  the 
sun  glimmers  through  the  thick  foliage  in  the  Saxon  park, 
when  the  Green  Square  (Zielony  Plac)  deserves  its  name, 
and  Lazienki  lies,  smiling  and  elegant,  bordered  by  its  group 
of  trees,  reflected  in  its  park,  then  he  feels  that  sunshine 
and  the  warmth  of  summer  are  also  at  home  here.  Wila- 
now  allures  him,  Sobieski's  beautiful  country  seat,  which 
he  has  hitherto  seen  only  in  the  light  of  a  cold  spring  day, 
and  he  finds  the  palace  surrounded  by  a  luxuriant,  fragrant 
flora,  by  tall  trees,  which  Sobieski  planted  himself,  or  caused 
to  be  planted. 

Never  has  he  seen  such  tall,  such  magnificent  poplars, 
tall  as  the  cypresses  in  Hadrian's  villa  at  Tivoli,  proud  like 
them,  melancholy  and  yet  solemn  like  them. 


3IO  IMPRESSIONS    OF    POLAND 

And  when,  on  a  summer  afternoon,  the  breezes  sigh 
gently  through  the  tall  poplars  at  Wilanow,  and  the  foreigner 
walks  slowly  through  the  broad  avenue  they  form,  while  he 
hears  the  Polish  language  about  him,  and  perhaps  sees  dear 
beings  beside  him  who  live  wholly  and  entirely  in  their 
passion  for  the  cause  of  Poland,  as  the  cause  which 
gives  a  meaning  and  a  consecration  to  their  lives,  and 
in  faith  in  the  future  of  Poland,  as  the  faith  which  alone 
has  made  them  brave,  useful  men — then  when  the  sunset 
is  beautiful,  and  the  flowers  exhale  their  fragrance,  and 
the  temperature  is  mild,  and  the  air  a  caress,  the  foreign 
wanderer  feels  less  hopeless,  and  he  says  to  himself :  Who 
knows  !     Perhaps — in  spite  of  all. 


THE   END 


Printed  by  Ballantyne,  Hanson  ^  Ca 
Edinburgh  <5r*  London 


/. 


i(''UJ  "'P^l   PH..  '^M  -"'P"!! 


AHVHan 
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