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Coryat^s Crudities
In Two Volumes
Volume II
GLASGOW
PRINTED AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS BY
ROBERT MACLBHOSE ^ COMPANY LTD. FOR
JAMBS MACLEHOSE AND SONS, PUBLISHERS
TO THE UNIVERSITY OF GLASGOW
MACMILLAN AND CO. LTD.
THB MACMILLAN CO.
SIMPKINy HAMILTON AND CO.
MACMILLAN AND BOWBS
DOUGLAS AND FOULIS
LONDON
NBW YORK
LONDON
CAMBRIDGE
BDINBURGH
MCMV
o
Coryat's Crudities
Hastily gobled up in five Moneths travells in
France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia commonly called
the Grisons country, Helvetia alias Switzerland^
some parts of high Germany and the Nether-
lands ; Newly digested in the hungry aire of
Odcombe in the County of Somerset, and now
dispersed to the nourishment of the travelling
Members of this Kingdome
By
THOMAS CORYAT
VOLUME II
Glasgow
James MacLehose and Sons
Publishers to the University
New York: The Macmillan Company
MCMV
t •
•
■
t*« •
• •
•
•
•^ii;
?!v-*.
•••••
• •
• • •
• ••••
•
• • •
• • •
'•;;V
• • •
«r
• •
>
• • •
•::.
^ fc fc » •
... V * •
THE TABLE
PAGB
Observations of Vicenza, 2
Observations of Verona, 16
Observations of Brescia, 41
Observations of Bergamo, ..... 49
Observations of Rhetia, commonly called the
Grisons Country, ..... 63
An Oration by Hermann Kirchner in Praise of
Travel in Germany, . -7»
Observations of Chur, 88
Observations of Helvetia, otherwise called Switzer-
land, ....... 92
Observations of Zurich, ..... 94
Epistle from Thomas Coryat to Gaspar Waserus, 113
Epistle from Thomas Coryat to Gaspar Waserus, 121
Epistle from Gaspar Waserus to Thomas Coryat, 122
^o i^^
THE TABLE
PACB
Epistle from Thomas Coryat to Rodolphus
Hospinianus, . . . . .123
Epistle from Thomas G>ryat to Hemy Bullinger, 127
Epistle from Thomas Coryat to Marcus Buelerus, 130
Epistle from Marcus Buelerus to Thomas Corjrat, 135
Observations of Baden, ....
Observations of Basle, ....
Observations of Some Parts of High Germany,
Observations of Strasburg, .
Observations of Lower Baden,
Observations of Turlowe, .
Observations of Heidelberg,
Observations of Spires,
Observations of Frankenthal,
Observations of Worms,
Observations of Mayence,
Observations of Frankfort,
Observations of Bingen,
Observations of Bonn,
137
178
181
199
205
207
231
252
269
287
295
309
VI
THE TABLE
Observations of Cologne, •
Observations of Nimeguen,.
Observations of Gorkum, .
Observations of Dordrecht,
Observations of Flushing, .
Posthumous Fragments of the
George Coryat,
IndeX| ....
Poems of
Rev.
PAGE
357
362
364
373
377
409
VII
ILLDSTRATIONS
PAGB
A Delineation of the Amphi-Theater of Verona, 24
A True Figure of the Famous Clock of Strasburg, 192
A Sci(^[raphie or Modell of the Great Tun of
Heiddberg, 224
Frederick IV., Count Palatine of the Rhine, 232
The Pembroke Dragon, 392
IX
THE SECOND VOLUME
OP
Coryat^s Crudities
Containing his Observations of Vicenza, Verona,
Brescia, Bergamo, Rhetia, commonly called
the Grisons Country, Helvetia, Some
Parts of High Germany, Stras-
burg, Heidelberg, Worms,
Mayence, Frankfort,
Cologne and
Gelderland
XI
CORYATS CRUDITIES
VOLUME II
IDeparted from Venice in a Barke to Padua about eight
of the clock in the evening the eighth day of August
being Munday, after I had made my aboad there sixe
weekes and two dayes, and came to Padua about nine of
the clocke the next morning. Here I was very graciously
U5ed by my Lord Wentworth. For he invited me most Ltrd
kindly to dinner to his owne table, which courtesie the ^«ta
very course of humanity doth injoyne me thankfully to
remember. After dinner I walked with him to the Santo,
where I observed divers things that I have already men-
tioned in my observations of Padua: as an exorcisme
performed by a Priest for the expelling of the divell out
of a man possessed : a monument of one of our English
Earles of Devon-shire : another of Petrus Bembus, &c.
I departed from Padua about two of the clocke in the [p «g».]
afternoone the same day, being conducted in my way by
my kinde friend Mr, George Rooke, of whom I have
made mention before in my discourse of Padua, and came
to a sclitary house thirteene miles beyond, about seven
of the clocke in the evening, where I lay that night. When
I was out of Padua I observed that there are no woods, f*''^ «'
groves, shrubs, or any manner of trees growing neare to """'
the citie, as there wcre in former times. For all of them
havc beene cut downe within these few yeares. I noted
a singular point of policy in this. For the Venetians who
are the Lords of Padua, have caused this to be done, to
the end that there shall be no place of shelter for the
cnemies to shroude themselves in, if any should happen
t:mpproach to the citie, with an intent to assault it. AU
C-C II. I K
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Guasto^ a
toaste pku
0- *93.]
ScaRgtf^s
verses on
Fkenza,
that space which is so voyd of trees, is called the Gnasto,
that is, the waste plot ; not because it is altogether waste
and unprofitable, as bearing no commodity at all. For
it beareth great store of Melons and other fruites: but
because there grow no trees there. This Guasto is
extended about some three miles in length, before I could
come to any trees. The like Guastoes they have also
about their other cities in Lombardy, &c.
I departed from the solitary house about sixe of the
docke the next morning being Wednesday, and came to
Vicenza about eight of the dock. The distance betwixt
that house and Vicenza is five miles.
My Observations of Vicenza, in Latin Vincentia
and Vicetia.
Julius Caesar Scaliger hath written these verses upon
Vicenza.
BAcche pater, Ceres alma bonae bona numina pads,
Quae patulos agros, qui juga curva tenes.
Quid rerum, quid amidtiae cum Marte cruento
Vobiscum.? vestrum ut vexet utrumque foror?
Pulchra racemiferos domitat Vicetia colles,
Laetaque spicilegi jugera findit agri.
Caedis amor, caedis germanae insana cupido :
Nec patrius nato est tutus ab hoste cruor.
Nusquam iter est: vastata jacent latrone protervo
Ruscula, corruerunt ignibus hausta suis.
Parce (ne&s) scelerare manus Gens debita coelo,
Imbueque ignoto pectora digna deo.
Divinae &cies, regio ccelestis : at hujus
In cceli medio tartara dira vigent.
This city was built about three hundred twenty fbure
yeares before Christs incamation, by the people called
Euganei, whom Antenor the Trojan expulsed from that
place, where he built Padua, and not long after it was
much inlare^ed by those Gaules that were called Galli
Senones, wnich followed Brennus in his warres. There
OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA
are two rivers that run through it, whose names are
Bacchilio and Eretinus, whereor Bacchilio is the fairest,
over the which are built seven bridges, partly of stone
and partly of timber. On thc left hand of the bridge, '
which leadeth into the citie from Padua, I told sixteene
pretty water-mils, which are very commodious to the H'aur milli.
citie : it is thought to be about some foure miles in com-
passe with the suburbes, being seated in a plaine at the
tbote of the hill Bericus, and built in that manner that
it representeth the figure of a ScorpJon. For it extendeth [p. »9+.]
it sclie much more in length then breadth. And about
the West end it is so slender and narrow, that it resembleth
the tayle of a Scorpion : it is invironed round about with
a bricke wall, wherein are eight gates : many goodly
Palaces and stately buildings, both publique and pnvate I
sawin this citie. In the first street as I came in from Padua
I observed a very beautiful palace of a convenient heigth,
in the front whereof I read this inscription : Has aedes
quanta celeritate ignis consumpsit, tanta fere M. Antonius
Walmarana Stephani Equitis clarissimi filius a fiindamentis
erexit anno M.D.XCIII, In the great market-place is
erectcd a stately pillar of freestone of some twenty foote
high with the winged Lion upon it. The Prsetorium "^^
or the citie standeth at the north side of this market-place, '^''*'*"*«' J
which is a very sumptuous and magnificent building, but
much inferiour to that of Padua. It is in length fifty sixe
paces, and in breadth twenty two ; at the higher end there
is a Tribunall, above the which the winged Lyon is placed,
richly gilt. Berwixt the Lyon and the Tribunall I read
this inscription, written upon a ground of gold. Antonio
Bernardo Juriscon. & patri optimo ob rempub. domi
forisque fseliciter administratam, urbe pontibus, carcere,
foro, templis exornata, Judaeis & noxiis ejectis, civitate in
pristinam dignitatem studiis & sanctis moribus restituta,
monte Pietatis ftindato, grata Vincentia posuit, M.CCCC.
LXXXVI. The roofe of this Praetorium is hollow as that
of Padua, having many yron beames that come athwart
or a crosse from one side to the other, as that of Padua.
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
The outward roofe is covered with lead. In each side
above is a faire gallery adomed with TOodly pillars : like-
wise each side beneath hath a walUce sarnished with
marveilous faire great pillars, sixe being compacted
together in one, which doe make a faire arch : of which
arches there are nine: one of these lower walkes is
thoroughly finished, viz. the northerne by the market-
[p. 295.] place : but not that in the South side ; when I was in
Vicenza, they were building very diligently every day to
end the same: which without doubt will be a most
beautifuU walke when it is once brought to perfection,
and it wiU yeelde a great omament to the Praetorium.
So then of aU these faire walkes high and low, which
belong to the Palace there are foure. Also there are two
or three paire of stately staires that leade up to the haU.
A marvelktu Neare unto this Palace there is a Tower of a marveilous
sknder toaer. hgjgth, as high (in my opinion) as that fiunous Towcr of
Cremona or St. Markes of Venice, but so exceeding
slender that I never saw any Tower in aU my Ufe so high
of such a slendernesse.
There are foure very memorable things to be seene in
this citie: the Monastery of the Dominican Frycrs, the
Palace of the Count or Earle Leonardus Walmarana, his
Garden neare to the west gate that leadeth to Verona, and
Themonastery a famous Theater, built anno M.D.LXXXIIII. In the
^^ . Monastery of the Dominican Friers is to be scene the
Friars. thorny crowne of our Saviour Jesus Christ (as they say)
which St. Lewes King of France, anno 1259. bestowed
upon his brother at Paris, who hapned afterward to be
Bishop of Vicenza, and a Dominican Frier. They report
that he was the man that bestowed this crowne upon the
Monastery. In my notes of Paris I have written something
of this crown. For in Paris they say that they have the
thomy crown : and here in Vicenza the Dominicans most
constantly affirme, that none hath it or can have it but
themselves : eyther they must prove that Christ had two
severaU crowns of thornes put upon his head (which is
contrary to the history of the EvangeUsts) or else it must
4
OBSEBVATIONS OF VICENZA
needes foUow that one of these crownes is fklse. Never-
thelesse I went thither to see it fqr my mindes sake, but I
could not possibly obtaine the £ivour, though the Friers
otherwise used me very courteously, affirming that it was
never shewed to any man whatsoever but upon Corous [p. »96.]
Christi day, and that it was kept under three locks. One
of the M onkes shewed me a very memorable thing in this
Monastery. For he brought me into their kitchin, and TAem^Msitry
tokl me, that where thc chimney is, even where their ^^^-
meate is wont to be rosted and sodde, certain Arrians
heretofore lived, their principall Master reading from a
chaire that stood in the same place, the Arrian doctrine
to his disciples and followers : but at last the holy Bishop
Bartholomew (of whom I have ahready spoken) chaced
them out of the Citie, and in their roome placed the
Dominicans.
Thc Palace of the Earle Leonardus Wabnarana seemeth ^^''^
to be a very magnificent building, if the inside be cor- ^^^^^
respondent to the front next to the street. For that front ^^^^'
is very beautifull, having much pointed diamond worke
about the bottome, and about the toppe many prety
histories curiously cut in stone. Under one history is
written, Ars superat naturam : under another where grey-
hounds are most exquisitely carved, these two Greeke
wordes are written iraXXirro9 Trovwvy whereby is meant that
hunting is the most generose and noble exercise of all
others. Both these emblemes are made on the right
hand as you go into the house. On the left hand this
under a fine historicall worke. Ubi periculum, ibi
festinandum. Againe over the dore this noble and most
remarkable inscription is written very ^e in stone:
Maria Austria Augusta, Caroli Quinti, Maximiliani
Secundi, Rodolphi Secimdi Imperatorum filia, uxor, mater,
i Philippo fratre Hispaniarum Rege Potentisimo, ad
regendum Lusitanorum quondam Regum Imperium nuper
partum, k Germanii accita per Italiam iter raciens, in his
xdibuSy qu6d ipsa ob veterem Austriacorum Principimi
erga hanc domum dientelam maxim^ volvit, cimi Mar-
S 5
CORYArS CRUDITIES
garita Maximilianoque filiis Archiducibus, i Leonardo
vValmarana Comite eodemque Philippi R^s Pension-
ario, splendidissimo apparatu accepta niit. Anno. M.D.
LXXXI. IV. Kal. Octobris.
[p- *97'] The third is the Garden of the foresaid Earle Leonardus,
j^ ., which is so delectable and pleasant that it seemeth a second
garJen. Paradise. At the entrance of it over the first gate I read
this inscription in Capitall letters.
Civis. Amice. Advena.
Qui loci amcenitate cupis oblectarier,
Securus huc ingredere,
Teque largit^ recrea.
Nullus intus canis, nullus Draco ;
Nullus falce minaci Deus.
Onmia sed tuta, benigneque
Exposita.
Sic volvit Comes Leonardus
Wahnarana Hortonun Dominus,
Modestiam qu6d tuam & Con-
tinentiam Custodem fore fi-
dat optimum. Anno M.D.XCII.
After I came into the garden I turned on the right hand,
and descended into a verjr pleasant and delicious walke,
Tie siconi at the entrance whereof I read this second inscription made
tnsmpnoH. jj^ stone over a faire gate.
Si te imprudentem graviores
Fort^
Huc usque insequutae sunt
Curae,
Eas velint nolint procul
Nuncutabeant facito.
Hilaritati namque & Genio
Pars haec potiss. dicata est.
Againe, having passed through that gate and walke
which was but short, I entred mto a third walke of a
notable length (for it was at the least two hundred paces
6
OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA
bng) beset with most delightfuU trees on both sides. At
the entrance of this walke there standeth another statelv
gate, ovcr the which I read this third inscription, which '^he Mrd
ind^de is most witty and eiegant. inscnftm.
Cedros hosce qui dempserit, [p. 298.]
Floresve carpserit,
Is Sacrilegus esto;
Vertunmoque & Pomonae,
Queis sunt sacri,
Poenas luito.
In both sides of this walke I saw Cedar trees, Orange, Fndt tms.
Lemmon, and Pome-citron trees, and fruits of all these
kindes ripe. Amongst the rest I observed passing &ire
Citrons, which made my mouth even water upon them,
md caused me aknost to transgresse his law. One side of
the walke is invironed with a goodly wall, by the which
the fruits doe grow. About the middle of the walke
there is built a prety convenient house, wherein tame
connies and divers sorts of fine birds are kept, as Turtles,
&c In the middle of the garden is built a faire round
roofe, supported with eight stately pillars of white stone,
it is said that it shall be all covered with lead, but it was
not when I was there. Aiso I saw a fine Labjn^inth made jf/nf
of boxe, but the dore was locked that I could not get in. ^h^^^ ^f
And many lofty Pine trees, but some of them were so ^'
nipped with the cold frost and snow that fell the winter
before, as those were in the king of Frances garden at the
Tuilleries, that they were even starved. Aiso for the
more addition of pleasure to the place, there is a sweet
river fuli of fine fish running by that fruitfull walke,
wherehence is ministred store of water to moisten the
garden in time of drougth. Finally to condude, such is
the affluence of all delights and pleasures in this garden,
that it is the most peerelesse and incomparable plot for
the quantity that ever I saw.
Thc fourth and last memorable thing of this City is a TheTkeatre
stately faire Theater, which was built by certaine Scholars e^^*^^*^-
7
CORYAT^S CRUDITIBS
[P- *99]
Muscwiti
Ambassadon
enterudmd.
Jafmiise
noblemen.
Inscripdon in
tke Tkeatre.
in the yeare M.D.lxxxiiii. that were called Academid
Olympid, but why so called I know not. It hath an
Orchestra made in it according to the imitation of the
Roman Orchestraes, which is at the lower end of the
degrees, or (as I may more properly terme them) benches
or seates, whereof there are fburteene^ each above another,
compassing something more then halfe the Theater, and
contrived in the fashion of an halfe Moone. In that
Orchestra none sit but Noble and eminent persons. He
that shewed me this Theater told me that the Orchestra
and fourteen benches would containe about some three
thousand persons. The Scene also is a very faire and
beautifiill place to behold. In this Theater was acted a
play for many yeares since with divers goodly shewes
before William Gonzaga Duke of Mantua, father to the
present Duke Vincentius Gonzaga. Againe, afterward
certaine Moscovite Ambassadors that came from Rome,
were very honourably entertained in this Theater with
musicke and a banouet. And after them certaine youn^
Noblemen of that farre remote region in the £ast called
Japan or Japona, being descended of the bloud royall of
the Country, were received here with great state, at what
time Livius Pajellus a sing^ular Orator pronounced an
eloquent Oration in praise otthem. But one of the latest
great shewes that was made here was presented before the
torenamed that famous Earle Leonardus Walmarana, in
the yeare 1585. For at that time the Tragedy of
Sophodes, which is intituled Oedipus, was most excellently
acted in this Theater. The history of the acting whereof
is finely painted in the Court wal at the very entrance to
the Theater. Over the three dores of which Court I rcad
these three inscriptions, written in Capitall letters.
This over the first.
Olympicis Exdtamento.
This over the second.
Civibus Oblectamento.
And this over the third.
Patris ornamento.
8
OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA
In the front of the Scene, directly opposite to the [p. 300.]
Orchestra, this is written:
Virtuti ac Genio
Olympicorum Academia
Theatmm hoc k fiinda-
mentis erexit, Anno
M. D. LXXX. IIII
Andrea Falladio Architecto.
Without the City also are two most stately and goodly
things to be seene. Whereof the first is a very magnificent
arch built about the end of the City, southward as you
goc up to the hill Bericus. The other is the Palace of Tki paUuioj
the Earle Odoricus Capra. The arch certainly is a very ^^^^^^-
sumptuous monimient being of a lofty heigth, and sup-
ported with foure portly marble pillars, two on one sicle,
and as many on the other. At the top standeth the winged
Lyon in white stone, and at both the endes of the toppe
two statues aiso of white stone are erected. In the front
of the outside of the arch, this is written under the
Lyon.
Deiparae Virgini Berici
Montis
Jacobus Bragadeno Am-
bross. F. Praef. Religionis
& urbis amantiss. D.
M. D. XCV.
After I was entred within this arch, I ascended a mar- Marvelkus
vailous high paire of staires, much higher then those that ^^^ ^^^^'
I have mentioned in my description of Lyons. For they
are of that heigth that they will make a weake body utterly
weary before he can attaine to the toppe. For they con-
tadne no lesse then a hundred and fifty neeses. And you
must ascend by five greeses at a place tiil you come to the
toppe, the severall partitions being in number thirty.
Truly they are the highest staires that ever I trode in my
out of a Church or house. At the left hand of the [p. 301.]
9
CORYATS CRUDITIES
ascent a little after I was entred within the arch, I read
this inscription in a stony pillar.
Qjiis ascendet in montem sanctum tuum?
In another pillar on the right hand, this:
Innocens manibus & mundo corde.
After I was come ahnost to the toppe, I found this
inscription in a stony pillar on the left hand.
Franciscus Bernardinus
Saracenus
Scalas fecit ex stipe
public^ privatimque
Collata,
& viam reliquam
ad Mariae templimi usque
silice promovit.
C I 3 I 3 C.
And this inscription in another stony pillar on the right
hand.
Hospes si properas,
Pauldm sistito,
Urbis, collium, fluminimi,
Agrorum, Alpium aspectu
Laborem lenito.
Abi. perge pius,
Dei matrcm Virginem
Salutato.
Stratae viae commodum
Piis precibus rependito.
ThiTmpkof After I had ascended those staires I went to the Temple
Man^ of the Virgin Mary, seated upon the toppe of the hil, and
about a mile distant from the City. All the Monkes that
dweli here are meerely lay-men. In the Moneth of
August when I was there, this Monastery was exceedingly
frequented with people, and so it is every yeare in the
same Moneth. For they hold this opinion and doe very
lO
OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA
confidently maintayne it, that by the prayers which godly [p. 30».]
people doe make in the Church of diat Monastery that
Moneth, one soule shall be redeemed out of Purgatory
fbrsooth. Infinite are the votive tables that I saw hanged
about the walles of this Church. I saw many indeede at
the Altar where our Lady is worshipped at the Arsenal,
and in other places of Venice, but never a quarter so many
in one place as here. I walked into the Cloyster of the
Monks, and into a high gallery at the toppe of the Monas-
tery, where they have a passing sweet prospect. Surely
they dweil in as convenient a place fbr a retired life as
any I saw in Italy, nay none comparable to it. They say
that many miracles are shewed in this Monastery.
The other memorable thing without the City, is the
sumptuous Palace of the above named Earle Odoricus
Capra, which is a little mile distant fi-om the City. It is
built upon a prety eminent hillocke, and is roimd (in
which respect it is called in the Italian Rotonda) haying
fbure very beautifuU fi-onts, which doe answere the foure
parts of the world. At the East fi-ont as I ascended to Thedrm $f
the house, I saw three white statues erected, and under ^«rir.
them the picture of a blacke Goate which is his armes.
Under the which I read this.
Scriptum
Memoriae perpetus
Mandans haec
Dumsustinet & abstinet.
At the West end under another scutchin this is written.
Qju aedes has arctissimo
Primogeniturae gradui
Subjecit.
At the North side this under a third scutchin.
Und cum omnibus censibus,
Agris, vallibus, & collibus
Ultrk viam magnam.
II
CORYArS CRUOITIES
[p- 30$'] In the South side this iinder the fburth scutchin.
Marius Capra
Gabrielis F.
Every front hath sixe most stately great pillars, and two
paire of staires to ascend to the same, dich contayninfi;
eighteene faire greeses. The roofe of the house is round,
and very pretily adorned partly with curious pictures, and
partly with statues, whidi worke was contrived by the
jfn open nof. elegant pensill of Alexander Magantia. Also the roofe
is open for the raine to descend into a very convenieot
place made of purpose in the hall for the receiving thereof •
In one of the higher chambers there is the fairest chimney
fbr davy and jeames that ever I saw, saving that of the
ICing of France at his Palace of Fountaine JSeleau before
mentioned. For it was made of an extraordinary fine
coloured marble, beautified with faire veines of divers
colours. This marble came from Verona. In another
chamber I saw a davy and jeames of touch stone, and a
A siauly table boord of the same : also there is a statelv celler under
cilkr. ^^ Pahice, the roofe whereof is vaulted. At the farther
end of this cellar as you go forth of it into a faire vineyard,
this impresse is written over the dore in great letters.
Antrum non CimiaBum
Neque Homericum videbis,
Sed Bacchi;
Hospes ingredere,
Laetior abibis;
But I found not the words of the inscription true ; for I
went not out more merily then I came in, because the
cellarer had not the honestie to bestowe as much as one
draught of his wine upon me.
Thi Biskofs I was at thc Palace of the Bishop of Vicenza whose
^^'- name is Dionysius Delphinus. In this Palace is the towne
prison.
This City was much annoied by the army of that
[p. 304.] mercilesse Barbarian Attila, with many other famous dties
la
OBSERVATIONS OF VICENZA
of Italy, after hee came out of his country of Scythia
to spoyle the EuropDean Cities. Also the Emperour
Fredericke the second besieged it about the year a
thousand two hundred and forty, and afterward having
entred it by force of armes, he defaced a great part of it
with the fijrie of the fire.
For the sight of most of these notablc things that I
enjoyed in this faire citie, I doe acknowledge my self
exceedingly beholding to two Italian yong Gentlemen ^""f
that were Vlcentines borne, whose names were Thomas "?''
dc Spanivellis, and Joannes Nicoletis; especially fo one
of them, who kept me company almost all that day that I
spent there, and conducted me from place to place till he ,
had shewed me all the principall things of fhe cifie. For
sorely many Italians are passing courteous and kinde
towards strangers, of whose humanitie I made friall in
divers other cities in Italie, as Padua, Venice, Verona,
Brixia, Bergomo, &c. Therefore I will ever magnifie and
extoU the Italian for as courteous a man to a stranger as
any man whatsoever in Christendome. For I have had a
little experience In my travels of sonie of every principall
nation of Chrisfendome.
The firsf that converfed this Cifie from Paganisme to
Chrisfianitie, was Prosdocimus thaf preached the Gospell
first at Padua, as i have before mentioned.
The Vicentines were first subject to the Signiorie of
Venice about the yeare 1404. at what time they submitted
themsclvcs of their own accord to the Venetians.
That day that I came forth of Vicenza, being Thursday
and the eleventh day of Augusf, I saw a franticke and A fran^
iunaticke fellow runne up and downe the citie with a '""^^*
gowne about him, who kepf a very fiirious stirre, and
drew many people about him.
Thc West gate of the Citie that leadeth to Verona,
hath a very lofty Towre of a goodly heigth, and without [p- 305-]
the same on the left hand, I saw a marvailous sumptuous
gate made of free-stone, and newly built, but not fully
finished. All the front is confrived wifh pointed diamond
I
Ficenza.
CORYATS CRUDITIES
worke. At that place there is nothing at all built but
only this gate. This charge me thinkes might have beene
well saved) fbr it serves ror no other purpose but onely
for a beautifuU entrance into a faire meadow.
Ficenza \ will now conclude my observations of Vicenza with
famousfir ^^ memorable Italian sayings, the one of the Counts and
^^-jj^ Knights of Vicenza, which is this :
Quanti hk Venetia ponti e Grondolieri,
Tanti hk Vicenza Conti e Cavallieri.
That is, looke how many bridges and Grondoleers Venice
doth yeeld, so many Counts, and Knights doth Vicenza.
Tke toine rf Xhe other, of the wine of Vicenza, which is in a manner
proverbially spoken of , as other conunodities are of other
Italian cities, viz.
Vin Vicentin,
Pan Paduan.
Tripe Trevizan.
Putana Venetian.
That is, The Wine of Vicenza,
The Bread of Padua.
The Tripes of Treviza.
The Cortezans of Venice
Thus muchof Vicenza.
Departed from Vicenza about tenne a docke in the
morning, the eleventh day of August being Thursday,
and came to Verona the next day about nine of the docke
in the morning: The things that I observed bewixt
Armed Vicenza and Verona are these. Most of the horsemen
harumin ^^^ j jj^^^ y^tn fumished with muskets ready charged,
VUenza and ^^^ touch-boxes hanging by their sides full of Gunpowdcr,
Venna. together with little pouches full of bullets; which is a
[p. 306.] thmg so commonly uscd in most places of Itaiie, that a
man shall scarce finde a horseman in any place riding
without them. I heard that this is the reason of it:
because the people of the country are so given to villainies,
14
I
FHOM VICENZA TO VERONA
that they will rob, rifle, and murder passengcrs, if they
are not sufficiently provided to defend themselves against
them. At every miles end by the way for the space of
tenne or twelve miles, I saw certaine prety stony pillars* Piilaritrecud
erected by the high way side, such as we call in Latin h'^°"'y"'''-
cippos, whereof some had Inscriptions, some had not,
which I suppose were set up for many ycares since, even
in the time of the Roman Monarchie to limit their miles.
whereupon many auncient Latin authors whensoever they
would mention a place of Italie distant certainc miles fi-om
a dtie, would say, decimo &c lapide ab urbe distat. Some
of the Inscriptions of these pillars were so auncient and
even eaten out with timc, that I could hardly reade above
two or three lettcrs of them : Perhaps they were set up
beforc, or not long after, Christs incarnation. Againe
somc had crosses on them as being erected by Christians.
On the right hand as I travelled to Verona, I saw three
vcry stately and strong castels upon hils, adorncd with
goodly battlements, &c. whereof one, which stood almost
m the middle way betwixt Vicenza and Vcrona, was butlt
by the Princely femilie of the Scaligers of Verona, as a
certaine gravc Gentleman tolde me that I ovcrtooke riding
upon the way, who discoursed with mc very femiliarly
of many mattcrs in Latin : the same castle is now possessed
by the noblc Contarens of Venice,
Thc tcrritories of Vicenza and Verona doe confine and
meete together about a place called Turre, which is but Tum.
one solitarie inne, so caJled because the signe thereof is a
tower. This is thirteene miles beyond Viccnza. About [p. 307.]
nine miles on this side Verona I sawe a most magnificent
Palace not about half a mile distant from thc way on thc
left hand. I was told that it belonged to a Venctian
Clarissimo, callcd Pctcr Gritti.
That day about fivc of thc clocke in the afternoone -^ vuUnt
there fell a marvailous violent showre after I was past ''"^'^-
about some two miles beyond Villa nova, which is seven-
nc milcs from Vicenza, that continued almost for the
*The»e kinde ofpillars Plutarch doth call oij^ia in Viu Gracchi.
CORYATS CRUDITIBS
Sheep
toanting.
[p. 308.]
ScoBgn^s
verses tffon
refona.
Tki antiqmty
rfVermM,
space of three miles, even till I came to my lodging, and
made me wet to the very skinne, that I did even rigere
frigore.
1 observed great abundance of vinCTardes on both sides
of the way, and exceeding fertile Champaines, goodly
meadowes, pastiires, come fieldes, and arabk groundes
both betwixt Padua & Vicenza, & also betwixt Vicenza
and Verona. Onely I saw one speciall conunodity want-
ing, wherwith (Gkxl be thanked) IBngland is so abundandy
furnished, as no place (I think) in su Christendome more,
being indeed a thing exceeding necessary iox the sustenta-
tion of mans !ife, as any other thing wluitsoever that God
hath given unto man, viz. sheepe. For I remember I
saw but three little flockes in all the way betwixt Padua,
and Verona, which are forty eight miles distant.
Within a mile of Verona on the left hand of the way
there is a faire little Monastery that belongeth to the order
of those Monkes that are called Camaldulenses, which
doe weare white gownes and cowles of the same. There
are but eight of the Fraternity, their Church is very iaire,
and they have a Cloyster that invironeth aknost their
whole Monastery, round about adomed with manv beauti-
full pillars, whereof I told twenty eight of a great bignesse.
My Obscrvations of Vcrona.
Julius Caesar Scaliger hath written these verses upon
Verona.
ITaliae canimus semper florentis ocelliun,
Calliope nequeat grandiiis uUa loqui.
Aucta deis, auctura poli Verona Quirites ;
Quot cives, tot habens sydera digna Jove.
Non animi, non ingenii vigor acrior usquam,
NuUa creat plures Martia terra duces.
Transferre in coelum volvit sibi Jupiter, atqui
Clarior in nostris malvit esse locis.
This citie is of that antiquitie, that some do write it
was first foxmded by the ancient Hetruscans and hath
16
OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
beene in dmes past accounted one of their twelve dties
on this side the Apennine mountaines. But afterwards
in processe of time^ the Gaules that are called Senones,
having passed over the Alpes under the conduct of their
Captaine Brennus, came into this part of Italy, and ejected
tfaoae Hetruscans out of the possession thereof , and greatly
amplified and enlarged the same. So that it was called
Verona quasi Brenona, from their Captaine Brennus. But
there are some that write, that it had the denomination of
Verona from Vera, the name of a noble familie amongst
the Hetruscans. Surely it is a very delectable, large, and
popuious citie, and most sweetely seated:«for the noble
river Athesis runneth by it which Virgil calleth amoenus,
§ Athesin ceu propter amoenum.
It issuetli out of the Alpes not far fi-om the city of Trent.
This river yeeldeth a speciall commoditie to the citie. Vt^^^
For although it be not able to beare vessels of a great ^*
burden, yet it carrieth prety barges of convenient quan-
titie, wherein great store of Merchandise is brought unto [p- 309«]
the dty, both out of Germany and from Venice it selfe.
In one side of this river, I toid nineteene water-mils, which
were like to those that I saw upon the river Rhodanus at
the dtj of Lyons. There are fbure bridges which joyne
tx^ther both the bankes of the river, whereof one is very
&ire and beautifull above the rest. By the sides of that
bridge that I passed over when I entred into the city from
Vicenza, I observed two faire stones of white marble ^^^jf^^^
opposite to each other, with armes and scutchins in
them : in that which is on the right hand I saw this
inscription.
Qui fluminis vim passus
annos plures jacuerat,
Civitatis ornamento,
& commodo
Pons tandem est restitutus.
§^nel 9.
CC. II. 17 B
CORYATS CRUDITIBS
And under the same this:
Andrea Gritti Principe,
Francisco Foscaro Praetore,
& Hieronymo Zano prefecto.
an. Salutis M.DXXIX.
In that on the left hand this:
Fluminis impetu disjectum pontem
diligentisl Joannis iEmi Prsetoris
pen6 restitutum, Francisci Foscari
Successoris cura perfecit.
Also I noted a third stone of white marble, in which are
written certaine auncient characters of that antiquity that
I thinke no man can reade them; because indeede they
are partly defaced. A certain Italian joung Gentleman,
unto whom I was much beholding for the sight of many
noble antiquities of this citie, toid me that this river
TheinuHiia' Athesis doth sometimes so extremely swell, that it hath
!S/'*' utterly overwhelmed aU the bridges, and much annoywi
the citie. For testimony whereof he shewed me this
[p* 310.] memorable inscription written in the corner of a certaine
wall not farre from the river, which mentioneth a very
strange and unusuall inundation thereof .
Viator haec hlc tabida
posita est ut perpetu6
sciri possit summas
nostri fluminis
aquas huc usque
pertigisse.
die XXX. Octobris
anno M. D. L xvii.
& siccitate &
diluviis infausto.
This Table is placed about twenty foote higher then
the bridge, according to my estimation, which argueth so
strange an inundation of the Athesis, that I doe not
18
OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
rcmember I cver read of the like, saving once of thc
Tybcr in the time of the Emperour Mauricius when S.
Gregory was Pope. For then the Tyber so far exceeded
his usuall bounds, that he overflowed the very walles of
Rome.
Thc forme of the building of this citie is something likc
to that of Turin in Piemont : for it is almost square. The
greatest part of it standeth in a plaine, and some part of
it that bendeth to the South, is situate upon a hill, whereon
are built two stately Castles, the one of S. pEelix, the other 5^<i^CW«fl/
of S. Angelo ; also it hath one more in the plain that "^'""''
standeth neare to the river: that of St. Felix is invironed
with a fiiire bricke wall, which is adorned with battlements
that yceld so faire a shew, that from the west it is seene a -^H
great way off. AII these Castles, especially those two on ^H
the hill, are passing well furnished with munition and
irtiUcry for the defence of the citie against the invasion of
thc enemy. The wals of the citie are the fayrest of all the ^^*' '^'^^^ "'^
Italian cities that I saw, and indeede fayrer then any I ever ^'"'
saw before in all my life. For they are of a marveilous
hcigth, in some places forty tbot high, according to my [p. 311.]
estimation, buiU all with bricke, and rairely beautified with
battlements. Also there are five gates in them of great
antiquity, whereof some are garnished with curious
carvings, images, and marble pillars. The compasse of the
wholc citie together with the suburbes is thought to be
bctwixt sixe and seven miles. Within these few yeares it
is become very strong ; for the Venetians doe daily
ttengthen it with wonderfiill strong fortifications, ram-
piers, and bulwarkes, which they have incompassed with
deepe and broad Trenches, so that it seemeth to be almost
inqffegnable.
So many notable antiquities and memorable monuments
Vt to be seene in this noble city of Verona, as no Italian
dtie whatsoever {Rome excepted) can shew the Hke. But
die worthiest and most remarkable of all is the Amphi- '^^
theater commonly called the Arena, seated at the South- "^f^''''""^'
west end oi the city where cattell are sold ; whereof I
'9
I
thealrei finl
bnik by the
Athenians.
I ' CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
have expressed a picture in this place, according to the
forme of it, as it flourished in the time of the Roman
Monarchy. This word Amphitheater is derived from
these two Greeke words at^^'i which signifieth about, and
flew/tai to behold, because which way soever a man doth
view it, he findeth it of a circular and round forme, So
that herein an Amphitheater differeth from a Theater,
because an Amphitheater is every where round, but a
Theater (according to the forme of the auncient Roman
buildlng) is but halfe round, being made in the fashion of
an halfe circle or halfe Moone. The model of these kinde
of Amphitheaters which the auncient Romanes built in
Rome, and other places of Italy, was derived from the
Athenians, who were the first that erected an Amphi-
theater. Certainly this present building, whereof I now
speak, is a most stupendious masse of worke ; ^
Non opus, at moles, qualem neque tota vetustasaH
vidit, & haec setas non habitura parem ; _■
To use those verses of it that one wrote in praise of the
[p. 311.] King of Spaines Palace at Escuriall in Spaine. For indeed
it is such an admirable Fabricke that it drawcth all
strangers into admiration thereof : and I am perswaded that
the beauty thereof after it was first built and throughly
consummated, was so glorious, that it no lesse drew
spectators from most of the principall places of thc world
to contemplate the excellency thereof, then that famous
Temple of Vespasian in Rome, dedicated to PaJIas, which
is 50 highly commended by Josephus the Jew. It was
reported unto me by Gentlemen of good notc in this citie
of Verona, that the like Amphitheater is not to be seene
at this day in all Italy, no not in Rome it selfe. Ncyther
doe I thinke that antiquity could ever shew a fayrer piece
Vtrma of worke for an Ampnitheater ; but it is very ruinous at
rmrlino'^' this time. For the principall ornaments thereof are
demolished and deftced, So that it hath lost morc then
hallc of its pristine glory: it is uncertaine who was the
first founder thercof, That it was built by onc of the
OBSERVATIOTJS OF VERONA 1
Roman Emperours every man beleeveth, but by whom no ^^^^H
Chronicle, Annals, or auncient History doth certainly ^^^^H
record. But Torellas Sariana, a learned man borne in ^^^^H
Verona, who hath written certaine bookes of the antiqui- ^^^^H
fics of this citie, Js drawen by certaine arguments and ^|
conjectures to affirme, that it was built by the Emperour H
Augustus, and that in the two and fortieth year of his H
Empire, which was that very year that our blessed Saviour ^M
was borne into the world, Were such a building to be I
made in England, I thinke it would cost at the least two m
millions of our pounds, thal is, twenty hundred thousand I
pound, even as much as tenne of our layrest Cathedrall I
Churches. For it is all built with redde marble : which SeJ marHt.\
although it were a very chargeable piece of workemanship ; I
yct they could build it as cheape there as in any part of al I
Itaiy. For in the territory of Verona they have divers M
nurble quarries, and that of sundry colours, as white, |
blacke, redde, &c. It was dedicated to Janus, and hath as [p. 313.] 1
yct many notable things to be seene, which do argue the ^
singular beauty thereof when it Hourished in his prime. ^B
For it was invironed with two round walles, whereof the m
ouCward was a thing of rare magnificence. Which by the -^
invasion of many barbarous people, as the Gothes,
Hunnes, (who under the conduct of their King Attila
sadted this city) and Longobards under their King ^if
Alboinus, hath beene so ruinated, that there is but a little ^'"/'*"*""''
pm thereof standing, the marble stones being puUed ;_ ,^/
downe, and removed therehence, partly for the garnishing barbarians.
of the private houses of the city, and partly for ofher uses.
This, together with all the other partes of the machine,
was built with redde marble, all the pieces being cut
square which doe very excellently garnish the worke.
That which remaineth at this day of the outward wali,
though it be but little, doth testifie that it was a wondrous
architecture. For there are now standing three rankes or
rowes of arches, and each row doth containe three severall
degrecs of arches more, built one above another, and
rused to a wonderful heigth, at the least one hundred and
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Thi arcAit. fifty foot high, according to my estimation. These arches
were heretofore distinguished with stately pillars of redde
marble answerabie to the rest : and the hiehest degree of
the third was most gloriously beautified with faire statues
made of Corinthian worke, which were placed betwixt the
pillars and the arches; every arch having two severall
statues, so that to doubie the niunber of the arches, which
are in al seventy, there were erected one hundred forty two
statues: which yeelded a passing ornament to the walL
Again, these three degrees of arches were built of as many
distinct formes of workmanship, namely the Corinthian,
the lonicke and the Doricke. Also above these foresaid
degrees there was a fourth ranke of building, which was
erected at the very toppe of all, viz. a degree of windowes
made all open, without either glasse or any other thing in
[p. 314*] it. These corresponded the niunber of the arches, even
seventy two, and served for the people to sit in, to the
end they might the more convenientiy behokl the eames
T^ **^^^^ and exercises in the Amphitheater. All this outward wal,
^^^ ^^' whereof now there is but a little fingment left, onely those
three ranks of three severall arches that I have ah-eady
mentioned, did round about inviron the whole buildins^ (as
I have before said) beins some twenty foote distant nt>m
the inner wal. But the mner wai it seUe doth stand prety
well, and yeeldeth a most stateiy shew, though some
parts of the toppe be something blemished. For all the
arches doe as yet remaine, even seventy two ; for I walked
round about them, and tolde them all. Now whereas of
the outward wai there were three deerees of arches, there
are not above two in this outward wau, which stand directly
one above another, so that the niunber of those above
doth answere them beneath. And for the better grace of
the worke there is inserted betwixt eveiy arch a goodly
pillar of red marble, the base whereof bemg made of the
same matter, is five foot thicke, and the distance betwixt
every couple of pillars is sixteene foote. The lower arches
are now converted to very base and sordid uses. For they
serve partly for stables to put horses and hay in, and partly
.22
l
I
OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
lor tipliog houses for poore folkes to sell wine in, and
oti-*r nccessaries. After I had exactJy viewed aU the
oiitward parts, I was adniitted into the inside by a fellow
Uut gets his living altogether by shewing the same to
smngers, and as soone as I came in, I was driven into
grcat admiration. For I saw so many things as wtll make
1 stranger not a little wonder. There I observed the
^es, or benches, made of redde marble, incompassJng BeHiheiofreJ
the cavca, or plaine within it round about, and ascending "'"'^ ''
fey degrees one above another to the very toppe, which
oc in number forty two : but the greatest part of the
flarble of these benches Hath beene (to the great biemish
<tf the work) carried away tbr many yeares since by those [p. 315.]
baibarous people that have much eclipsed the glorious
I bcnity of this building. Yet the gentlenien of Verona
hlTe within these few yeares something repayred it againe.
For they have bestowed so great charges in mending them
00 both sides with new marble bencncs correspondent to
the rormcr, that those on the right hand cost them three-
«ore thousand crownes, and those on thc left sixe thou-
sand, as a Gentleman of Verona told mc that shewed me
i 4iK particulars of the Amphitheater. Thcse threescore Grta/ ciarges
■Mri sixe thousand crownes being not the fiftieth part of ■^'' "'"^'"S-
fHkcharge (as I thinke) that the whole building would cost,
^fee it now to be built from the foundation, may give a
nu some conjecture what an infinite and excessive masse
rf money it cost in those dayes when it was first founded,
diough I belccve thcir building was then much chcaper
dieo now. Aiso thcse Gentlemen of Verona doc daily
btuitifie it with new addition of marble benches, becausc
ihey have oftentimcs great shewes exhibited here to the
peoplc upon festivall dayes, as running at Tilt, and othcr
Doble exercises, especially upon their Carnivall day, which
is observed amongst them in the same manner as our
Shrove-tuesday with us in England, being called Carnivall
from thc two Latin words, Caro and Vale, that is, farewell
IScsh, because after that day they eate no more fiesh till
iMter. These foresaid two and forty benches have in
^ 1
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Thi henchis former times contained three and twenty thousand pl|
coHtMwd (hj^^ ^^j-g ^hg spectators of the games pkyed the
^f^ foote and halfe and no more being fimited to
* particular person. The higher bench is esteemed «J
dred fourescore and three pearches in compasse, and
the middle, namely the one and twentieth, a hi
two and forty. Every pearch being ten fbote
Likewise from north to south it is thought to be^
hundred and threescore foote long : and from east
three hundred and forty foote broad. AU that o[
[p. 316.] void space at the toppe was wont to be covered ovcr
with curtaynes at the time of their publique games,
end to keepe off the scorching heate of the sunne^i
otherwise would very much annoy the people.
galleries in the inside are contrived after a very
manner, not unlike unto Labyrinths. For there a
degrees of them vaulted one above another,
which both those that were above upon the ben<
descend to goe forth of the roome, and they
Tkirooms fir ascended to rneir seates. Also I observed certaine
thibeasts. ^here the beasts were kept, with whom the Gl
were to fight. These roomes have at one end
little open places to let in the aire for the refreshing
beasts, such as we call in Latin spiracula. The cai
greene plaine in the middle is made in the forme
egge, sharpe at the ends, and broade at the sides,
to a pond that I have seene in one of Sir Frands
gardens in Middlesex : and it is in len^th nine &
pearches, in bredth two and twenty and lialfe. For
exactly observe the length and bredth of it. NoiWj
divided in the very middest by a certaine kind of
to that of our Tilt-yard at Whitehall, where the
Gentlemen and Nobleman of Verona doe soi
encounter at justs and tomaments. In the mid<
this plaine divers spectacles and games were wont ijj
shewed in former times to the people, whereof somef!
Bloodyjigku, sisted especially of a most bioudy kind of fight bei
men and beasts, which was performed by their Gladiid
«4
OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
For aocording to the aundent custome of the Romans
certaine enormous malefactors that had committed some
capital crimes, being condemned to fight for their lives
with wilde beasts^ were in this place and such other
(whereof Rome had manv, as the Circus maximus, &c.)
exposed with their swordes and targets, and such other
weapons to the fury of savage beasts, as Lyons, Beares,
Tigres, &c, if fortune favourcd them so well that they slew [p. 3» 7-]
those beasts, then both their lives were saved, and also
they had some reward bestowed upon them, which was
conunonly called brabium, in token of their victory. But
if they were slaine by the beasts, it was esteemed as a just
recompence for their wicked deserts. But to condude this
discription of the Amphitheater of Verona, it is a worke of
such admirable magnificence that as I never saw the like
before, so I thinke in al my future travels (which I deter-
mine God willine to undertake hereafter both in Christen-
dome and Paganisme) I shall never see a fairer.
Thus much concerning the Amphitheater.
ALso I saw the rudera of an aundent Theater which was ^* muwit
a distinct building from the foresaid Amphitheater, ^^^-
upon a hill on the farther side of the Athesis, neare to the
gardens of the Dominican Friers.
The Palace which doth now belong to the Capitano, was ^^ ^^^ rf
heretofbre the habitation of the Princely Scaligers : at the ^^^^-
kft hand of the porch whereof , which is a very magnificent
and stately buiiding, are three very faire arches nmde with
free stone, and adomed with diamond worke. In the front
of this buildine which is newiy buiit, & looketh towards
that goodly wa&ewhere there is a great meeting of Gentle-
men and Merchants twise a day, this inscription is written
over a dore betwixt two scutchins. Regia hujus superi-
orem utramque partem longa incurii ruinam ita minitan-
tem, ut pene reparationis desperationem cunctis adferret,
Justinianus Contarenus Prsetor, Franciscus Priulus Pne-
fectus ab extremo vindicarunt occasu, & in long6 splendi-
diorem fadem pristin& restitu&oint c I 9. I o. c I L
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Againe, betwixt two other dores neare unto this, there is
written this also over the scutchins in the same front.
InscrifHm in Virtuti & Honori
tkePalace. jvJii Contareni Praetoris, & Bernardi Marcelli Pnefecti,
quorum singidaris prudentia ut in regendi urbe mirific^
[p. 318.] emicuit : sic in maxima rerum perturbatione bellicis appa-
ratibus vacando, amborum vigilantia, ceieritas, diligentia
fuit suspicienda. c I o. I o. cvi.
Besides in the inside of the Palace I read this inscription
written in a new wall that includeth part of the court
betwixt two golden scutchins over the dore. Atrii hujus
quod conficiendum supererat, ne suo ornamento destitutum
squaleret, Justinianus Contarenus Prsetor, & Daniel Del-
phinus Prsefectus, unanimes onmi cultu perfectum D. M.
D. CIII.
In another wail of the court right opposite unto this,
many Noblemens armes are very gallantly painted,
amongst the rest the spread-Eagle about the toppe of the
wail, under which this is written. Aquilae bicipitis pectori
Justinianorum prisci stemmatis quse cernis afi&xa insignia.
Mapheus Justinianus dum pro Veronensibus contra Bebra-
censes strenu6 pugnat, parto hostiimi vexillo hsc sibi
bellica virtute vendicavit, M. C C. L.
Greai store •/ Jn a lower roome which is on the riffht hand of the court
-«»'*•• as you come in from the street, I obLved great store of
munition, especially great pieces of Oroinance upon
wheeles, and lesser, as sakers, &c. that roome being wholly
replenished with filrniture for war-fer^. ^ ^
7hi Piazza. The Piazza or the publike walke without the Palace is a
faire place, paved al with bricke. In iength it is three-
score and seven paces : in bredth five and forty. And it is
on every side indosed with goodly buildings. At the East
with the Praetors Palace, at the West with a certaine
goodly auncient building that serveth for publique uses.
At the South with the Praefectus Palace, at the North with
the Councell house, which is a very faire building, having
foure beautifuH windowes in the front, and a goodly walke
26
OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
adomed with ninc stately pillars of blcw and porphyric
marblc that make eight faire arches. Over the gate of the
Councell house this inscription is written above two golden
scutchins: Ubique simul. [p. 319.]
And againe^ this under thc same in golden lctters upon
an azure ground. Pro sununa
fidc
Summus amor,
M. D. XCII.
Also the higher part of thc front is garnished with five ^«'^ heauHfki
beautiful marble statucs of certaine famous learned men '^^'-
borne in this noble City, who with the excellent monu-
ments of thcir wit have much ennobled their Country.
The first is of Marcus Vitruvius, who hath written ten
bookes of Architecture, being next to the Palace wall of
the Praetor. Next to him, Valerius Catullus the Poet.
The third Caius Plinius the Historiographer. The foiu^th
^mvlius Maccr the Poct that wrote certaine poems of
hearbes. The last, Cornelius Nepos an eloqucnt Poet in
thc time of Cicero. Also there is another or Hieronymus
Fracastorius, erectcd over a stately arch that standeth at the
west end of thc Councell house.
I saw thc monuments of two of the noble Scaiigers of Monmnents rf
Verona in a little Churchyard, adjoyning; to thc Church ^ ^^^^-
called Maria Antiqua, but a little way oistant from that
Palace, wherc they livcd in former times, which now
belongeth to the Venetian Capitano, as I have before said.
Thc fairest whereof is that of^ Mastinus Scaliger, standing
at one corner of the Churchyard, which is such an exceef
ing sumptuous Mausoleum that I saw not the like in Italy.
It is supportcd with sixe stately pillars of porphyrie marblc,
without the which are sixe sumptuous pillars more very
curiously wrought with prety works and borders. At the
topjpe ot which outward pillars are certaine littie pinnades,
eacn whcrcof sustaineth an image of an armcd man
made in alabaster. Also above tnose sixe piilars there
is a marvailous rich worke made of alabaster, whereon
«7
S'
CORYATS CRUDITIES
[p. 320.] there stand more images very exquisitely carved.
Upon the toppe of ail, even upon a little pinnade
^^^** standeth the statue of Mastinus Scaliger himselfe on
scaliffr. horsebacke made of alabaster. It doth very neare
represent the living shape of him. For it is said
that it was made in his life time. In the lower part of
the monument this Epitaph is written.
Caligera de gente fui, celebrique ferebar
Nomine Mastinus, claras dominabar in urbes.
Me Dominum Verona suum, me Brixia vidit,
Parmaque cum Luca, cum Feltro Marchia tota.
Jura dabam populis equo libiamine nostris
Omnibus, & fidei, & Christi, sine sorde secutor.
Occubui prim6 post annos mille trecentos
£t decies quinque, heu, lux ibat tertia Juni.
The other monument is of Canis Grandis, or Magnus
MaffiMs Scaliger, which standeth in another corner of the same
^ ^^^' Churchyard right opposite unto this, the same being a
very magnificent thing adorned with many piUars and
statues of marble, but something inferioiir to this. There
also is this Epitaph.
I Canis hic grandis ingentia facta peregit,
Marchia testis adest quam saevo Marte subegit,
Scaligeram qui laude domum super astra tulisset,
Majores si Farca dies infida tulisset :
Hunc Julii geminata dies undena peremit,
Jam lapsis septem quater annis mille trecentis.
Also there is a third monument of another Scaliger
Prince, called Canis Signorius; which is erected direcdy
over the Church dore, the Epitaph whereof I could not
perfectljr reade.
This City in the time of the Roman Monarchy was a
The fossessors long time subject to the Romans. Afterward it was pos-
ofFermi. ses^ by the Ostrogothes, and after them by the
Longobardes, whose first King Alboinus kept his Court
here. At last they gave place to the successors of Carolus
Magnus, as Pipin his sonne, Prince Berengarius and
28
S'
OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
othcrs, that kept their Couit here. After them, it came [p. 3^1-]
into the hands of the Tyrant Ezzelinus : who being acain
dispossessed, these Scaliger Princes (of whom I have bcfore
spoken) and others of the same faniihr had the soveraigne
dominion of this City for the space of two hundred yeares,
till Joannes Galeatius Viscount of Milan abrogated their
governement in the time of Antonius Signorius Scaliger
about the yeare 1396. After which time the said Galea-
tius swayed Verona eighteene yeares. But as soone as he
was dead, one of the Scaligers recovered it a^ne. The
same being made away with poyson, Franas Carrarius
enjoyed the Principality halfe a yeare. But the Venetians
beine; exasperated against him for Scaliger^s unnatiirall
death, deposed him againe about the yeare 1405. and
governed the same till the yeare 1509. Then it was seven
yeares subject to the Emperour Maximilian, who in the
yeare 1517- restored it to the Venetians, that have con-
tinually from that time to this present day enjoyed the
possession thereof .
The principaU market pkce of the City is very faire, ^'Jlf'^^*^
which I take occasion to mention by reason of a notable ** ' ^''
thing that I observed there tending to idolatry. For on
the tront of a iaire house adjoining to this market place,
there standeth the image ot the virgin Mary, made in
white marble with Christ in one arme, and a booke in one
of her hands. Under the which this superstitious inscrip-
tion is written concerning the adoration of the same
image.
Quisquis
Sacram hanc B. M. Imaginem
Sole occidente
Comprecatus fuerit,
Huic
Centum dies
£x esl pcenitentia
Quam acturus erat,
Indulgentur. [p. 322.]
Francisco Veritate Com. Praetore. cb.b.c.vii.
«9
CORYATS CRUDITIES
A little above this inscription this is written in gold
letters.
Diplomate Pauli V. Pontifids Maxi.
Againe on the right hand of the image this.
Mariae
Quae est maxinia,
Virgini, Christi matri,
Auxiliatrici, Conservatrici,
Placide, propitiae, seamde,
Quam quotidi^ statd horiL
Prostrati homines adoranto ;
Incorporati omnes negociatores
Stipe collata
Signum hoc marmoreum,
P. Paulo Malaspina Praet.
Inchoatum
Vincentio Manuello Juriscon. Praef.
Perfectum
Poni curaverunt
Reverendissimi
Joannes Baptista Arnoldus, Joannes Baptista Tachetus,
Joannes Pona, Franciscus Lutiascus, Natalis Roccaius,
Laiirentius Tudeschinus, clo.Io.cvii. Cal. Augusti.
Also I saw about the middle of the same market place
J pkMmt a marvailous pleasant fountaine, adomed with a very
^■"^^" andent marble image, wearing a crowne upon her head;
that is said to be a representation of Verona. From divers
spouts of this statue, jugis aquse fons doth incessantly flow.
Besides, at the higher end of this market place there is
erected a very stately marble pillar with the winged Lyon
advanced upon it. And in a Gentlemans house of the City
but a little way from that, I saw a very beautifuU paire of
winding stayres, made by that singular architect Andreas
[p. 323.] Palladius, which by reason of the curious workemanship
thereof are much shewed to stranmrs.
There are some Jewes in this aty, though not so many
as in Venice or Padua, who are shut up £rom the Christians
30
■ OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
ih their Ghetto by three gates ; upoti one whereof, which ''■*' G-*''» «/
standeth at one end of their street, I read this inscription. '*' ^'^'-
Auctore Patre nostro piissimo Augustino Valerio Car-
dinali optimo, Judfei hunc in locum publico Municipum
Principisque decreto condusi sunt : Julio Csesare Nogarola
Comite Antonio Fontanelo Jurisconsulto Gratia-Deo Ram-
baldo Cur. cId.Io.Ic. Catharino Zeno PrKtore, Petro
Mauroceno PrEcfecto. At another end is erected another
gate right opposite unto this, at the toppe whereof this is
written. Religionis ergo septum hoc ex Decurionum
pkcito Senatusque Veneti authoritate decretum optimo
nvente Deo ac Augustino Valerio Cardinali amplissimo
Pastoralibus officlis, adjuvante Catharino Zeno Prsetore,
Mauroceno Prasfecto. Julii Cssaris NogarolE Com. M.
Antoni Fontaneli I c. Gratia-Dei Rambaldi Prxsidum
curil perfectum conspicitur, cIo.Id.Ic.
The buildings of this city, especially those that belong ^^*' bnildings
to the Gentlemen, are very feire, being for the most part ^ '"^'
built with bricke : though I have seene some of the
Gentlemens houses built with passing feire stone, and
richly adorned with many goodly marbie pillars; the pen-
tices or eavisses of their houses being much broader then
I have obscrved in other cities. AIso many of their
outward walles and their chimneys are very fairely painted,
which giveth great ornament to their houses. I observed
one Palacc amongst the rest beautified with a passing faire
front, which was contrived wholy with pointed diamond
worke. Thc like whcrcof I have before mentioned both in
onc of the outward bulwarks of the castle of Milan, &
in the east front of the Dukc of Venices Palace. But that
diamond worke was made only in a littlc part of each front, [p- 3>4-l
even about the lower end. But this whole front was
adorned with it from the bottome to the very toppe,
which yeelded admirable gracc to the edifice.
In another front of one of their houses I read this pro-
phesie of Christ, written under the picture of Sybilla
Tyburtina. Virgo concipiet. TktCctkedral
I was in their Domo, which is their Cathedral Church Ckunh.
CORYATS CRUDITIBS
The Bishop of
Ferma,
[P- 3*5-]
Eufrofitu
firstpnachid
thi gupel in
rtrOM*
dedicated to om Lady ; a very auncient and goodly build-
ing, wherein are shewed some notable monuments. But
that which is most of all esteemed and reverenced of the
Citizens, is the Sepulchre of Pope Lucius the third of that
name, which I saw. This Lucius died in Verona, Anno
MCLxxxv. when he came thither to prodaime a generall
Councell, Urban the third being substituted in his place.
But that elegant Epitaph which is written upon his tomb
I did not observe, being afterward bestowed upon me by a
friend of mine, even this :
Luca dedit lucem tibi Luci, Pontificatum
Ostia, Papatum Roma, Verona mori.
Im6 Verona dedit tibi veri vivere, Roma
Exilium, curas Ostia, Luca mori.
The fairest Organs that I saw in Italy dr in any other
country, are in this Domo.
The name of him that was Bishop of Verona when I
was there, was Albertus Valerius, being successor to
Augustinus Valerius, that was afterward made Cardinal.
His Palace is neare to the Domo, the front whereof is very
faire, having foure stately pillars of marble at the entrance,
which are supported with two great square bases of the
like marble, in one whereof this inscription is written :
Probis
Improbisque
Par aditus ;
Dispar
Exitus.
This city first received the Gospell by the preachinff of
Eupropius, who was sent thither fi-om Rome by &nt
Peter. Since which time they have had many godly and
learned Bishops, whereof thirty sixe have bin canonized
for Saints, by reason of the great holinesse of their lives.
The chiefest of them all being Saint Zeno, the numen
tutelare or protector of Verona, who was a godly Bishop
of this citie, and a faithfuU Martyr of Christ, who suffered
3«
OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
in the seventh persecution of the Church undcr the
Emperour Decius, unto whom King Pipin above saide
built a very sumptuous Church at the West end of the
Citie, which is beautified with many goodly ornaments.
In the front thereof about the entrance of the same many
religious histories are presented in Alabaster. Also the
first gate is a worke of great sumptuousnesse, being decked
with many pretty iittle peeces of brasse, wherein many
notable histories of the bible are passing curiously de-
scribed : likewise at the sides of this gate there are carved
two exceeding great Lyons in red Marble, that sustaine
two goodly pillars. Within thc Church there is an extra-
ordinary grcat front made of porphyrie. In a low crypta
or vault of this Church I saw the monument of Saint MimumtittBf
Zeno, & againe above nearc to the quire his statue made ^' ""■
in stone with a miter upon his head. He is pourtrayed
laughing and looking very pleasantly, in his left hand he
held a reeden rcd, the top whereof was pretily made with
bone finely wrought, which indeed was nothing else but
thc top of his Crosier: at the ende hanged a counterfeited
Trowte, in token that hee was much delighted in taking
of Trowtes, as a Benedictine Monke tolde me. There I
read this inscription, Anno Dom. trccentessimo primo
Beatus Zeno moritur duodecima Aprilis.
I saw the monument of King Pipin whom I have before Monumeni o/
mentioned, the sonne of Carolus Magnus, in a little Cell '"^ ''*"■
adjoyning to this Church ; this sepulchre is supported with
foiire prety pilJars of marble. AU strangers that are
admitted to the sight of this tombe, doe first enter by a dorc [p- 316.]
that is most commonly locked, into a greene rude Court,
and so descend by a paire of staires of some tenne or twelve
grecses. There is great store of water oftentimes hard by
the monument issuing out of the spring in the same place,
as there was when I was there, which certainc Monkes
tolde me is of great vertue to cure sundry diseases,
This King dyed in Milan (as I have before said in my
description thcreof) but his body was afterward removed
hither, and interred in this place, according to his owne
C.C IL 33 c
I
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
A marbli
tabemack.
Churchof
S, AnastasUh
[P- 3»7-]
request in his death-bed. For Pipin so deardy loved
Verona, that he kept his royall Court sometimes therein.
In the quire of this Church I observed an admirable faire
marble tabernacle that belongeth to the Benedictine
Monks, the fairest that ever I saw made of marble. It is
beautified with two exceeding rich marble pillars, which
although they are but little, yet by reason of the adinirable
curiosity of the worke formed therein by the hand of Dame
Nature her selfe, and distinguished with passing variety of
fine colours ; they are esteemed so predous, that fbr them
and the tabernade it selfe a certaine Gentleman of Venice
ofi^ered three thousand crownes, as one of the Monkes
told me.
I was in the Ch\irch of Saint Anastasia that belongeth
to the Dominican Fryers, a building of notable magnifi-
cence. In the body of the Churci I observed twelve
exceeding huge pillars of marble which were the greatest
that ever I saw, even greater then those two famous piUars
of Phrygian marble in Saint Markes place in Venice, neare
to the Adriatique gulfe, which I have before mentioned in
mv description of Venice. Sixe of these stand in one side
of the Church, and as many in another. At one side of
the Church I saw a marvailous faire monument of Janus
Fregosius Prince of Genua, adomed with fbure most
sumptuous pillars of Alabaster, and an excellent ima^ of
himselfe made of the same matter, with a trunchion m his
hand, and a crested hehnet upon his head. At the top of
the monument this epitaph is written in Touchstone.
Deo Opt. Maxi.
Janus Fregosius Lig\u-um Princeps,
Ac Venetae reipub : terrestrium copiarum
Omnium Praefectus, ubi fortissimi Duds offida
Domi forisque prsestitisset ; Sac. H. T. F. I.
Hercules fihus paternae pietatis memor. F.
I observed foiire passing beautifull piUars of a flesh-
coloured marble at one of the Altars of the body of this
Church, which are estimated at three hundred crownes a
peece.
34
■ OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA 1
"-In the Monastery of the Olivetan Benedictine Monkes \
which are attyred with white vailes made of a kinde of Say ]
and copes of the same, I saw a most sumptuous paire of Sumptum I
Organs, and a very admirable workemanship in certaine '^i^'- J
wainescot piilars in their closet, where their priest did put -^
on his roabes for the celebration of masse. M
Also I visited the Monastry of the Bartholomsean I
Monkcs seated up>on a hill on the farther side of the -1^1
Athesis, and I observed their fountaines which they told *l
me arc of singular efficacie for the curing of certaine I
infirmities. I
I was admitted into the most magnificent Palace of ^^' 'f \
Count Augustinus Justus, but not without some favour, J^fy,^ I
There I saw stones with very ancient inscriptions, which I j^itui. 1
could not reade by reason of the antiquitie of them. Also I
I was shewed a certaine higher roome in the Palace which J
was a place of that singular glory, that I saw not the like ■
in any private house of Italy, the beauty thereof consisting I
especially of pictures which hanged round about the roome, i ■
beeing in number one hundred fifty nine, and such as repre- 1
sented some of the worthiest and most eminent persons of ^
the world in divers ages. There I saw many of the Roman '
Emperours most exquisitely painted, and some of the fP- J^^-J
German Emperors, and Kings of Spaine : also Kings of ^^^lj^
France : many Dukes of Venice, and divers Popes : of our
Enelish Kings but one. and that was King Henry the
ejghth. But the Italian painter erred, for the picture more
truely represented Henry the seventh, then H. the eighth.
There I saw the three femous Scaligers of Verona, whom
I have before mentioned, Mastinus, Grandis Canis, and
Canis Signorius ; the pictures of sixe of the most Six grtat
renowned great Turkes. Of Totylas King of the '^ '
Gothes. Of Alchitrof King of jEthiopia. Of Muleamet
Scirisso King of Marocco. Of Scanderbeg. Of David
dc Degli Abissini the present Presbyter John. Of Tam-
berlan. Of Gattamelita the Generall of the Venetians
land forccs. Of Sinan Bascia a famous Captaine of the
great Turke, and many other fine pictures representing
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
persons of both sexes that will miich delight a cuiious
traveller. Therefore I counsell thee whatsoever thou art
that meanest in thy travels to see Verona, to make meanes
to bee admitted into the Palace of Count Augustinus
Justus, and to see this noble and glorious roome befbre
thou dost come forth of it : fbr many English gentlemcn
have seene it, as the Italian told me tluit shewed it to me.
ThePalaci fi^^ the Italian shewed me his garden, which is a
garden. second Paradise, and a passing delectable place of sohoe,
beautified with many curious knots, fruites of divers sorts
and two rowes of lofty Cypresse trees, three and thirty in
a ranke. Besides his walkes at the toppe of the nrden a
little under St. Peters Castle, are as pleasant as ue heart
of man can wish ; being decked with excellent fruites, as
Figges, Oranges, Apricockes, and with Cypresse trees. In
one of these walkes is a delicate litle refectory : at one side
whereof there is a curious artificiali rocke, adomed with
many fine devices, as scoilop shels, and great variety of
other prety shels of fishes brou^ht from Cyprus: and
mosse groweth upon the same as ir it were a naturall rocke.
[p. 3*9-] This place certainely is contrived with as admirable curio-
sity as ever I saw, and moystened with delicate springs and
fountaines conveighed into the same by leaden pipes. I
J have seene in England one place something like to this,
even in one of the gardens of^that noble knight Sir Fiands
Carew of Middlesex, who hath one most excellent rocke
there framed all by arte, and beautified with many el^^ant
conceits, notwithstanding it is somewhat inferiour unto
this. A^ine in another walke I saw his fine cha{^)ell,
wherein his Chaplaine doth often say Masse to him.
Amiumfid \ observed a very moximefuU shew performed by
sfectacie. Monkes in Verona. For I saw eighteene couples of them
accompany a corse of one of their Fraternity to Church,
being attired with blacke buckram vailes, and marked with
the signe of the starre on the left side of their breasts, girt
with a blacke girdle, their heads covered with a bbicke
hood that came over all their shoulders, and hid all their
face. Before their eyes were made two holes to looke out :
36
OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
i of them carryed a burnitig candle in his hand of virgin
waX) and some of them three candles, and there was put
into every candle two peeces of their little tin money cafled
gazets.
This citie was besieged by the Emperour Charlemaine
shortly after the batteTl betwixt him and Desiderius the
kst King of the Longobardes neare the citie of Vercellis,
whereof 1 have before made mention. At what time
Adalgisius the sonne of the said Desiderius having escaped
by flight from the foresaid battell, fortified himserfe herein
together with Queene Berta the Wife of Carolomannus,
who was the eldest brother of the Emperour Charlemaine.
But Charlcmaine without any long siege got the citie
into his possession, because the citizens yeelded them-
selves unto his mercy, Also it was besieged about onc
hundred and fourteene yeares after that time by the Em-
perour Arnolphus, who by Berengarius Duke of Forum
Julii, now calied Friuli (a Prince that sometimes in those
daies kept his court in this city) was sollicited to come into
Italy with an army of men to aide him in his warres against
his gTcat femulus Guido Duke of Spoleto who contended
with him for the Kingdome of Italy : but the citie received
no great hurt by his siege ; for it quickly yeelded it selfe
into thc hands of the Emperour, as it did before to Charle-
maioe.
Ncare this citie was fought a great battell, anno 778.
betwixt the Emperour Charles the second surnamed the
Batdi and the two sonnes of his brother Lewes surnamed
Germanicus, whose names were Caroloman and Charles :
in this batteil (which was fought about two years after the
greal battell waged at the towne of Andernach in Ger-
roany, which I will hereafter mention in my notes of the
samc place, betweene the said Emperour and his Nephew
Lcwes another of these Princely brethren) was the Emper-
our conqucred by his Nephewes, and shamefuUy put to
flight, shortly after the which he died in Mantua, as I have
bcTore written.
Herc Philippus Arabs, the first Christian Emperour was
37
[p. 330.]
A great baiile
A.D. 778.
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
slaine by Decius the Captaine of his fbrces in IllTricum,
and afterward his successor in the Empire. Here also
Deatk of Alboinus the first King of the Longobards died an un-
AlMnus, naturall death. For wnereas the saia King, after hc had
taken the iamous citie of Pavie by a long siege out of
the hands of Longinus the first Exarch of Ravenna, kept
his court in this citie of Verona, and solaced himselfe
with feastes and banquets: he compelled his wife Rosa-
munda to drinke one day at table out of the * skull of her
father Cunimundus, whom a little before he had slaine :
for the which his Queene intending to be revenged upon
him for that most inhumane and oarbarous injury, con-
spired with one Hehnichildus a noble Longobard, to kill
the King her husband, with promise both to many him
if he would execute the matter, & to bestow the Kingdome
of Lombardy upon him. Whereupon Heknichildus being
[p. 331O tempted with this faire ofi^er, miudered Alboinus, as he
was asleepe in his bedde. And so by this meanes he
obtained indeede the marriage of the Queene, but not
the possession of the Kingdome. For being constrayned
to flie away presently after he had committed this bloody
Queen assassination, he came with his wife Rosamxmd to Ravenna
ie«.W. ,0 ^^ Court\)f Longinus before named, where after th^
had remayned a little while, Longinus falling in love with
the Queen, perswaded her, to the end he might the sooner
enjoy her in marriage, to poyson her new husband Heknil-
childus. The Queene shortly after delivered her husband
a poysoned cup as he came one day out of a bath, which
when he had greedily dranke, and now perceived the
violent efi^ect of the poyson, he compels Kosamund to
drinke the rest; so that she died presently with her
husband. Here Ludovicus King of Italy, the sonne of
Boson King of Province, by his wife Hermingardis
* The like ezample I have read of the sknll of the Greeke Emperour
Nicephonis who succeeded the Empresse Irene, and divided the Empire
with Charlemaine. For after he was slaine by the Balgarians the King
of Bulgaria did set his skull in a plate of silver, and commonly dranke
in the same at his banqnets instead of a cappe. Carion. Chronic. lib. 4.
38
OBSERVATIONS OF VERONA
daughter to the Emperoiir Charles the second svirnamed
the Bald (whom I have before mentioned) had his eies
plucked out of his head by Duke Berengarius before
named.
Besides those famous learned men borne in Verona, that
I have above mentioned, with many other most excellent
wittes, that it hath ever bredde from time to time, I have
often read of two most worthy women borne in this city, ^«^ vmtkf
whereof each was esteemed the Phoenix of her time for *^^-
learning, with mention of whom I wiU end this description
of Verona ; the one was called Isota Nogarola a * virgin,
who attained to so great knowledge, that she was very
eloquent in the Greeke and Latin tongues, and wrote
manv excellent Latin Epistles to Nicolas, the fifth Pope
of tnat name. Also she composed an elegant Dialogue,
wherein she disputed the matter, who committed the
greatest sinne Aciam or £ve. The other was f Genebria,
who in the time of Pius the second of that name Pope,
wrote sundry Latin Epistles with a most elegant stile;
which two women have no lesse ennobled this famous
dtie, with their learning then Aspasia, and Diotima, did [p« SS^*]
Athens, Comelia, Rome, Cassandra Venice, or Hilde-
gardis the citie of Bing in Germany.
Thus much of Verona.
IRemained in Verona all Friday after nine of the docke
in the moming, all Saturday, and departed therehence
upon Sunday being the fourteenth day of August, about
one of the docke in the afternoone, and came to a little
towne called Desensan, in Latin Desentianum, which is Deseman.
subject to the Venetians, and two and twenty miles beyond
Verona, about eight of the clocke in the evening. In this
space I observed onely a faire Fortresse of the Venetians
at a towne called Peschiera, fourteene miles from Verona : PescMgrs.
the other things were ordinary, as faire Vineyards, 8«:.
* Falgosns liU 8. cap, 3« Memorabiliam.
t Gesneras Biblioth.
39
CORYATS CRUDITIBS
This towne Desentianum is situate neare to the eoodly
lake Garda heretofore called Benacus, which Virgilmen-
tioneth in these wordes :
Fluctibus, & fremitu assurgens Benace marino.
The first name Benacus was imposed upon it fit>m a towne
so called, and also the new name Garda fi^om a towne
situate neare to it, which retaineth that name at this day.
^^ ^ This lake is called in the Italian Lago di Gardo ; it is said
to be thirty five miles long, and in some places fi)urteene
broad. I heard that it is commonly esteemed the noblest
Lake of all Italy, and some doe not sticke to prefisrre it
before the famous Lacus Larius, now called Lago di Como.
The fidre River Mincius that numeth by Mantua (of
whom I have before made mention) issueth out of this
Lake : it is oftentimes very rough and boysterous, inso-
much that at sometimes of the yeare it is very dangerous
for passengers to passe that way. The cause of which
roughnesse is ascribed unto the high clifiFes that indose it
[p- 333*] on both sides, and interclude the windes, who having not
the liberty there as in the open sea, doe extremely tosse
GoUen sandi. up and downe the waters. It yeeldeth golden sands iike
those of Tagus by Lisbone, and Pactolus by Sardis in
Lydia. Also it aboimdeth with fish, especialiy Carpes,
Troutes, and Eeles. This lake is very memorable for one
thing, to wit, for a fiunous victory gotten near imto it of
the Germanes, by that worthy and victorious Emperour
Flavius Claudius the successor of Galien, of whom the
liistorians do write he partly slew and partly tooke captive
two himdred thousand.
I departed fi-om Desentianum the next day beinc
munday, and the fifteenth day of August about seven of
the docke in the morning, and came to Brixia, commonly
Bmcia. called Bressa, being eighteene miles beyond it, about two
of the clocke in the afternoone : in which space I observed
nothing memorable, but onely some few ruinous Castles,
which seeme to be buildings of great antiquity.
40
OBSERVATIONS OF BRESCIA
My Observations of Brixia.
Julius Cssar Scaliger hath written this Hexastichon upon
Brixia.
QUae pingues scatebras specula despectat ab aTta SeaUget^s
Postulat imperii Brixia magna vices. ^Brescia^
Ccelum hilanun, frons Iseta urbi, gens nescia fraudis.
Atque modum ignorat divitis uber agri.
Si regeret patrias animis concordibus oras,
Timc poterat Dominis ipsa jubere suis.
This citie standeth in that part of Lombardy which is
called Longobardia Transpadana, because it is beyond the
river Po, and is situate in a plaine at the foote of a hill,
being in compasse three miles. It was first founded by Bnscia
the aundent Gaules called Cenomani, though some doe fi^^^h^^
write it was a Colony of the Romans. I heard that there ^ '
are some notable antiquities and inscriptions in this citie, [p. 334.]
but I must intreat thee (gentle Reader) to pardon me
although I doe not conununicate them to thee. For I
made so short aboad in the Citie, that I could not observe
halfe so much as I would have done if I had remained
there but one whole day.
It is invironed with strong walles, wherein there are
five gates, and fbrtified with a most impregnable Castle
that standeth upon a hiU, built ail with free-stone. Also
it is weli watered with pleasant springs and sweete fbun-
tains, as any citie I saw in Italy, nay none the like. Which
flow incessantly from many fine Conduits in sundry
maricet-places, and it is moystened with a river cailed
Garza, which indeed is but little, yet very conunodious
to the Citie.
The Palace wherein the Venetian Praetor and Praefectus ^^f of
doe lie (for here both have but one Palace, though in ^'^^^^-
othCT dties they have two) is a simiptuous building, and
fumished with great store of munition and artillery. At
the west gate thereof , which is most conunonly guarded
a guard of Souldiers that doe attend there all the day
4«
CORYATS CRUDITIES
with Partizans in their handes, I read this inscription over
a Scutchin on the right hand as I went into the court.
Dux, Heros, Scriptor Paruta,
Regis, geris, edis,
Urbem, res, libros,
Imperio, arte, manu.
And this a little under the same,
Fide, Virtute, Integritate, spectatissimo viro
Paulo Parute hujus iirbis rraefecto
Optimc merito, anno Dom. M.D.Lxxxxi.
Tke Pakce Xhe Palace court is thirty sixe paces long and forty broad,
^^* and all the wals round about are adorned with sundry
armes of the Venetian Gentlemen. Also in the middle of
[p. 335-] the coiirt there is an ex;ceeding pleasant Conduit that
spowteth out water in three degrees one above another;
in the second degree are sixe prety pipes, out of the which
the water doth most abundantly flow: also the higher
part doth exceeding pleasantly powre out water. At the
west end of the Palace in the outside of the wall, this is
written under the winged Lyon.
iEterne pacis, justitie, libertatisque Defensor.
Over the dore of the Praetors chamber I read this impresse.
Diligite justitiam qui judicatis terram.
Armowr. I went into one of the Praetors inner roomes, which I
saw furnished with armoiir round about all the walles, as
helmets, costlets, and other armour fbr armes and thighes,
which served only for horsemen. The like armour also
was on both sides of the entry within that roome, which
leadeth to the lodgings of the Prsefectus. Under which
armoiir I saw on both sides launces and speares fbr horse-
men. At the north side there is a goodly brasen dore
made like a latteise window, throuj^h me which I saw five
faire roomes more, passing well mrnished with armour.
At that gate are exceeding faire pillars of blacke marble,
42
OBSERVATIONS OF BRESCIA
interlaced with prety white vaines. Many fine pictures
of armed men are made by the sides of that northerne
dore. Opposite imto this roome is another faire chamber,
the roofe whereof is curiously adorned with excellent
pictures.
Their principall market place is very faire, at one corner Principal
whereof there standeth a goodly high pillar of free-stone, ^^^^P^^-
whereon the winged Lyon is advanced according to the
custome of the "N^netians, who have erected such a pillar
in the principall market place of every Citie subject to
their dominion, as I have before mentioned in Vicenza
and Verona. At the west end of this market place there
standeth a most stately Councell house, which was very
faire, and covered with lead before it was burnt. But
they have reedified and marvailously beautified it beneath [p. 33^0
with goodly pillars, and above round about with borders
and workes in great arches, and with marble pillars and
images of admirable curiosity, representing some of the
auncient Roman Emperours, so passin^ faire that I have
scarce seene a more curious and artifiaall architecture in
Italy, saving the Amphitheater of Verona, the Palace of
Padua, and some few of the Venetian buildings.
In the Domo which is dedicated to our Lady I saw a Cathidral
very faire monument of Francis Maurocenus their last ^*^^*
Bishop, who was also Cardinall. His statue is erected
above a most beautiful stone wherein his Epitaph is
written : and above the same his Cardinals hat and armes.
His Epitaph is this.
D. T. V.
Joanni Francisco Mauroceno
Patricio Veneto
Prisca gentis nobilitate, vitse sanctitate,
Religione, omnique virtutum genere,
Ac rerum gestarum gloria clarissimo.
Qui post amplissimas in dabaudia, Gallia,
Hispania, Polonia, Constantinopoli reipub. nomine
Singulari cum integritate, fide, prudentia,
43
CORYAT^S CIUJDITIES
Animi excelsi atque invicti magnitudine,
Ac denique onmium approbatione,
Obitas legationes;
A Gr^oria XIII. ultr6 designatus,
Mox k Sixto V creatus
Brixiensis Episcopus,
£t ab eodem in Gallia iterum ad Henricum IIL
Summa cum potestate difficillimis temporibus missus
Re felicit^ gesta, absens extra ordmem
S. R. l£. Cardinalis
Ingenti cum onmium bonorum acclamatione factus est,
£t simul
Legatus k Latere.
337.] Ad extremum omnibus vitae ornamentis ciunulatus
In £cclesiaB susgremio incredibili ejusdem
Ac totius Venetae atque ade6 ChristianaB Reipub.
Merore,
Verus Gregis Pastor, ac liberaliss, pauperum Pater,
£x hac vita adeternam demigravit,
Anno cId. I3. Xcvi. Men. Janu. die xiiii.
Pauperes hujus Civitatis Brixice
Hacredes ab eo ex asse instituti.
Ope Marini Georgii ipsius Cardinalis Consob.
£t in £piscopatu Successoris
Parenti optimo grati animi monumentum P.
Vixit Ann. Iviii. Men. iii. Di. xv.
Sedit Ann. x. Men. i. Di. ix.
/ Emperor In this Domo is kept a very memorable monument (if
nstaHtin/s that were true which the Brixians do report of it, as
without doubt it is absolutely false) namely the Crosse
that was presented unto the £mperour Constantine in the
south part of heaven, about the going downe of the sun,
at what time he marched with his army towards Rome, to
joyne battell with Maxentius. In which Crosse these
characters were plainly seene : In hoc signo Constantine
vinces. The Brixians doe call this Crosse whereof they
so much boast, Oroflamma, which signifieth the golden
Flame, &c. and they affirme that it representeth the colour
44
ts.
OBSERVATIONS OF BRESCIA
of heaven. Albeit I hold this tradition to be a
meere, yea, a very erosse figment (fbr what wise
man that hath his wit in his head and not in his
heele, will beleeve that this should be the very same
heavenly Crosse ? seing we reade that Constantine himselfc
could not have the same, but in steede thereof made
another Crosse the next day after of gold and predous
stone, which was bome before him in steede of a standard,
Euseb. de vita Constant. lib. i.) yet for the sadsfaction
of my mind I made meanes to seeit, but I could not
obtayne the sight thereof, because it is shewed but at
certayne times.
The Bishop of Brixia hath many temporall dignities [p. 338.]
added to his spirituall, so that he is intitled a Duke,
Marquesse, and Earle.
I visited the Church of the Dominican Friers* which Ckurckrfthi
is a very fayre building, the Quire being beautified with *f^'^^*
many goodly ornaments, amongst the rest their new taber-
nacle is a very glorious piece of worke. One of the
Friers told me that they keepe a bone of one of Mary
Magdalens armes here : but I could not obtaine the cight
of it, because it is shewed but at certaine times.
The nimnenr which is dedicated to the holy Martyr St.
Julia, is a building of great antiquity. For it was b\iilt
by Desiderius the last King of the Longobards in the
time of Carolus Magnus, about the yeare 750. The
Church thereof hath beene lately renewed and beautified
at the charges of the Nunnes. Upon the firont I read
this inscription.
Relicto Templo quod Desiderius
Rex Salvatori erexerat,
Hoc nobilius Deo & Sanctae Juliae
Dicatum Sacrse Moniales
Construxerant. An. Sal. cI3.I3.Ic.
This Nunnery hath beene in times past a receptacle of NtiMnfrj 0/
many royall Laoies, who after their entrance into the same ^* "^*^^-
spent aU the remainder of their lives there in divine medi-
45
CORYATTS CRUDITIES
so purloyned one of them out, and brou^ht him home
into England. Which had it been at that time perceived,
perhaps it might have cost me the lying in the Inquisition
longer then I would willingly have endured it.
Thus much of Brixia.
[p- 341O T Departed from Brixia about eight of the dock in the
X morning the sixteenth day of August being Tuesday,
Bergamo. and came to Bergomum commonly called Bergomo the
last City of the Venetian Signiory about seven of the
clocke in the evening. The distance betwixt these two
Cities is thirty miles. I observed in this space great
abundance of goodly vineyards, which at that time yeoded
ripe grapes passing faire and sweet. For I did oftentimes
borrow a point of the law in going into their Vineyards
without leave, to refi-esh my selfe with some of their
grapes. Which the Italians like very good fellowes did
winke at, shewing themselves more kinde unto me then
the Germans did afterward in Germany, as I will hereafter
declare in my observations of their country. For they
will not graunt a stranger that liberty to goe into any of
their vineyardes without leave, as the ItaCans doe. The
PiiosMt greatest part of the way betwixt these Cities is as pleasant
traveutng. ^^ ^^ j ^yelled in Italy. For it is very plaine and even ;
one spacious lane, on both sides whereof the goodly vine-
Jrardes grew, extending it selfe about eighteene miles in
ength. All that day I saw great abundance of people
;oing to and fro, but especially forward towards Bergomo,
lecause there was a great faire there at that time; most
of the horsemen being well appointed with muskets or
pewternels ready charged, according to that custome of
the Italians that I have before mentioned.
48
OBSERVATIONS OF BEKGAMO
jKpi
My Observations of Bergomo.
fulius CfEsar Scaliger hath written these verses upon
Bergomo.
INgenium, corpus, mores, obtutus, amictus,
Tecta, cibus, gressus, guttura, sermo, sonus :
'mnia crassa modis insignibus, omnia dura,
Sic valeant silices ut superare suos.
[sta domi ; sed vicinus si aspergat acetum,
Artibus atque dolis vincitur ipse suis-
This City was built about a hundred and fifty yeares
bcforc thc incarnation of our Saviour Christ, by one
Cirinus King of Liguria. It standeth on the side of a
hill, having in the east and south the pleasant plaine of
Lombardy before it. So that from many places of this
City there is as sweet a prospect as any place of Italy
doth yeeld. In the north and west are great hils that
leade towards the Alpes. It is devided into two parts,
the higher and the lower. Unto the higher there is a
long and ledious ascent. It was my chaunce to bc herc
at the time of their hir the next day after Barthelmew
day, which lasteth a whole weeke ; bcing kept in a large
plaine a little way distant from the lower part of the City,
This was the greatest iaire that ever I saw in my life,
except that of Franckford in Germany, whereof I will
hereafter speake. For there was a great concurse of people
not onely from the Cities of Lombardy, but also from
many other principal CitJes of Italy : besides many
Germans both out of the GrJsons country and Switzerland
rcpaire hithcr at this time : excecding plenty of all manncr
of commodities being there sold.
The first that planted the doctrine of Christian religion
in the City, and chaced idolatry and Paganisme out of it,
was St. Barnabas, who preached the Gospell first also at
Milan.
Thc Cathedrall Church is dedicated to our Lady, and
standeth in the higher part of the City : a very notable
[p. 34»']
S. Barthsh-
mew'i Fair.
1
CORYATS CRUDITIES
^^H feire building though but little. At the entrance of the
^^H north gate there are two feire pillars of red marble, suf>-
^^H ported with two huge Lyons or the same matter, At the
■ toppe over an arch which is above the dore, is advanced
a gallant fellow on horsebacke made in alabaster. One
[p- i^J-] part of this northerne front on the right hand as you enter
into the gate, is passing beautiflill, being compacted wholly
of sundry sorts of marble and alabaster, which doe yecld
a very glorious shew. The greatest part of it is made
of checker worke. In the middest of this front is a feire
round window garnished very excellently with many prety
pieces of marble, at the sides whereof are erected the
statues in alabaster of two famous Roman Emperours.
Julius Caesar on the left hand, under whom this is written
in great Roman letters : Divus JuUus CEsar. And above
him this: Imperavit annis V. On the right hand the
effigies of Trajan, under whom is written : Divus Trajanus
Augustus. And above : Imperavit Annis XVIII. But
I perceive that they calculate the time of his raigne within
compasse. For al the historians write that he raigned
nineteene yeares and halfe. These statues are made to
the middle part of their breast and no further, I told
certaine Italian Gentlemen that observed me writing, they
were much to blame to erect the images of prophane
heathen men upon their Church. For although it were
good to keepe such antiquities, yet they ought not to be
placed upon Churches where Christ is worshipped ; but
rather upon their Councell houses, or their private build-
ings. This part of the frontispice is passing faire, and
worthy to be noted by an industrious traveller.
After I entered the north gate I observed in a fiiire litle
chappell on the right hand of the Church, an exceeding
Monumeiti of sumptuous monument of Barthelmew Coleon the General
OiU^'"^'^ Captaine of the Venetians land forces, as I have before
mentioned in my discourse of Venice. They say it was
made in his life time by his owne appointment. He is
represented on horsebacke, all in glittering gold in his
complete armour that he wore in the field, and his miritary
OBSERVATIONS OF BERGAMO
tninchion in his right hand. All this monument is made
of pure alabaster, wherein are represented many notable
historics done in the pretiest litle images and works that [p- 3H*] i
I saw in any City of Italy. The whole worke is supported
with four alabaster pillars, at the foote whereof are
expressed the heads of Lyons. At the toppe of all is
advanced his helmet and crest with his armes, at the sides
are hanged two auncient banners which are grievously
rent and torne with antiquity. A little from his Tombe
there is hanged up a feire cloth of arras, in the middest
whereof his armes are finely wrought, which are three
testicles. The reason is, because nature gave him three
stones, one more then other men have, as I have said
before in my description of Venice. The monument it
selfe is a worke of that admirable sumptuousnesse, that I
esteeme it the fairest I saw in Italy, saving that of Mastinus
Scalieer in the little Churchyard at Verona. The Epitaph CcWi
■.selfcUthis. D. O. M. '""^'
Bartholomjeus Colleonus de Andegavia, virtute immortali-
tatem adeptus, usque ade6 jure militari fuit illustris, ut
non modo tum viventium gforlam fonge excesserit, sed &
posteris spem eum imitandi ademerit. Saepius enim k
diversis Principibus, ac deinceps ab iUustrissimo Ven.
Senatu accepto Imperio tandem totius Christianorum
exercitus, sub Paulo Secundo Pontifice Maximo, delectus
fuit Imperator: cujus acies 14. annis ab ejus obitu, solo
jam denincti Imperatoris tanquam vivi nomine militantes,
jussa cujuscunque alterius contempserunt. Obiit 4.
Nonas Novembris, Anno Dcmini 1475.
There are two very sumptuous Pulpits on both sides
of the Quire without, made of blacke and white marble,
having faire winding staires to ascend to them, wlth a very
rich rail at the edge made of brassc, and adorned with
many curious and fine workes.
One of the Priests of the City told me that there are AimTabk
forty Masses said every day in this Church : An admir- ^*^**-
able devotion cerfainly. The greatest part of them is
5>
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
celebrated in two little Chappels on both sides of the
Quire. Where I noted two exceeding curious ndles at
[p- 345-] the entrance of them, the pillars whereof are made of
white and blacke marble, and the upper part ex versicolore
marmore.
The nofofthi The roofe over the Quire is very beautifully concamer-
Choir. ated, and richly gilt. Round about the upper end of the
Quire there is as exquisite a peece of worke as ever I saw
of that kinde. For a certaine cunning artificer called
Franciscus de Ferreo monte hath with extraordinary
curiosity contrived the history of the oreation of the
world, and many other histories of the old Testament in
wainscot. So rare a worke that it is most admirable to
behold. There are also two very rich paire of Organs
on both sides without the Quire, most sumptuously gilt,
and imbossed with many very excellent workes.
The At the west end of the Church right opposite to the
BafHstery. Quire, I saw a passing faire and auncient Fabricke, built
of sundry kinds of marble, wherein are baptized the
children of Noblemen onely. It is an admirable archi-
tecture, raysed unto such an heigth that it doth even touch
the roofe of that part of the church where it standeth.
It is built round and adorned with sixe partitions of little
marble pillars, whereof many are Porphyrie, each partition
contaynmg fourteene sevenul pillars. At the toppe there
standeth me image of an Angell. Againe betwixt every
partition prety images are nmde in redde marble: Also
about the middle ofthe worke sixe alabaster images roimd
about the same, being distant asunder by an equall dis-
tance. The dore at the entrance is made of brasse, and
contrived like a Latteise window. I observed in a redde
marble stone, which is about the foot of this rare worke,
a notable thing which is not to be omitted, even the true
resemblance of a serpent, formed more exquisitely in the
stone by the hand of nature her selfe the most cunning
architect of all, then the most curious artificer in the world
could possibly have done. A thing that was shewed me
[p. 346.] by an Italian, as a matter very worthy my observation.
5«
OBSERVATIONS OF BER6AMO
This piece of marble may be vay propcrly called Ophiti-
call (of which I have written before in my notes of Venice)
because it doth so truely present t6v Skjhv^ that is, a
Serpent.
The Arras and hangings about this church are as faire as
I saw in any Church of Italy.
The Palace of the Bishop of Bergomo, whose name is Bisitf^^s
Joannes Baptista, doth loyne to our Ladies Church, but ^^'-
is the basest and most beggarly Palace for a Bishop that
I saw in Italy.
I was at the Prsetorium, which is in this higher part
of the citie, a very obscure and meane Palace, and inferiour
to all the other Palaces of the Venetian Praetors that I
saw. The name of the Praetor when I was in Bergomo
was Vincentius Barocius.
Hard by our Lady Church there is a stately walke, ^^
which I take to be their Exchange, and a place where they ^^^^^-
meete about their dvill afFaires. It is tairely roofed, &
sumptuously vaulted, and supported within with two
degrees of pillars. It is square ; for it is but thirty two
paces every way. In the middle of the easterne wall,
which is at the upper end of the walke, I read this inscrip-
tion upon a large table of Touch-stone.
Andres Gussono Praetori,
Viro virtutibus omnibus
Atque inprimis in hanc patriam
Charitate insigni.
Qui pauperes pras fame deficientes
Ingenio quidem, liberalitate
Autem maxime sustinuit:
Qui ne ab ea ampliiis premerentur,
Ad rem frumentariam
Viam invenit.
Qui montem pietatis ad multos
Annos derelictum, honestiiis
Qukm antek erexit.
Qui utriusque fori juribus [p. 347.]
Consulens, sua cuique
53
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Hacteniis confusa, distinxit.
Qui hsec levia existimans
In commodis nunc aldoribus
Vires suas omnes contendit.
B. B. B. D. D. An. P. Chr. Nat. M. D. Lxxxix.
Churchoftki
jfuffuthtton
FrUrs.
Ambrose
Calepim,
[p. 348.]
I visited the Church of the Augustinian Friers which is
situate in the middle of the hill, betwixt the higher and
the lower citie. A little within the entrance of the Church
there are two faire Fonts of blacke marble that serve for
their holy water. Their Tabernacle upon their high altar
is a very cosdy thing. For it cost them two thousand
duckats, which is two hundred thirty three pound six
shillings eight pence sterling. Within that Altar there is
a marvailous rich table, that covereth ahnost all the wall
of the higher Chappell where their high Altar stsuideth,
even from the toppe to the ground, being adomed with
the picture of S. Augustine, and some other Saints. Also
they have a wonderrull rich paire of Organs lately made,
and decked with exceeding faire pillars, made indeede but
of Wainscot, but so curiously handled, that it yeeldeth a
very faire shew : it is said it shal be all gilt. There are
twelve Altars in this Church, one against another, sixe in
each side, made in so many seveiall Chappels; in one
whereof there lyeth the body of famous Ambrose Calepine
heretofore one of the Friers of this Monastery. This is
he that made that notable Latin Dictionary so famous over
all Christendome, which hath beene since his death so
inlarged and augmented by the studious labours of other
learned men, that were he now alive he would scarce know
his own worke. It grieved me to see how obscurely he
was buried: For he hath nothing but a flat stone upon
him, without Epitaph or any other memoriall that might
derive the fame of so worthy a mans name to future ages.
All that space of the wall which is betwixt every one of
those foresaid twelve Chappels, is beautified with a rich
Taffata hanging: on which there hangeth one of the
pictures of the twelve Apostles : the whole twelve being
54
OBSERVATIONS OF BEHGAMO
phced upon the twelve severall hangings. Also each of
these hangings differeth from another in colour.
Over one of the dores of the Trinity Church, which is Triniiy
in the 4ower part of the citie, these verses are written : CAMrcA.
Aurea perpetu6 fiinduntur ab sthere dona
His adytis : si quidem Romana sacraria Clemens
Explicuit, sociasque animas effecit & aras.
Also over the same dore there is an arch, about the edge
whereof without the same arch, this following is written
in a roimd compasse :
O summ^ excellens caelestis gloria regni,
Quam pius ecce Deus si velit ipse dabit.
Againe, xmder that, this is written within the arch, a litde
above the picture of the Virgin Mary, holding Christ in
her armes:
Angelicas inter mentes, superasque phalanges.
Under the same direcdy over the dore as you enter into
the Church, this Tetrastidie.
Filia, nupta, parens, magni rectoris Olympi,
Idem qui natus virque paterque fuit.
Adsint ut caeptis quae sunt tria numina & unum,
Hasc tria Virgo roga Filia, Nupta, Parens.
The Gentlewomen of this city doe weare very strange Counterfitt
kinde of chaines about their neckes. A stranger at tfae Chains,
first sight of them will imagine they are very precious
omaments, worth three or toure hundred duckats, and
made of pure gold : as indeede I did. But after better
consideration he will find them counterfait. For indeed
they are but copper, as an Italian told me. They hang
very large about their necks, being about three times
double, and have extraordinary great linkes. Also I j.
observed that their attire doth much differ fi-om the habits
of the Italian Gentlewomen in other cities of Itaiy. For [p. 349.]
whereas most of their gownes are of Sattin or Taffata;
the sleeves of them are exceeding great in the middest,
and so little at the hands, that they cannot weare them
55
CORYATS CRUDITIES
A rudi
Sakct.
upon the sleeves of their other garments. So that they
alwaies hang loose and flapping. This fashion they have
borrowed &om the Spaniaros. For I saw it much
used by the Spanish Gentlewomen at Turin, and by
a woman Mountebanke in Venice that imitated the
Spanish attire.
The laxiguage of this City is esteemed the rudest and
grossest ofall Italy, as the Bosotian dialect was the basest
of all Greece. In so much that one of our English men
Thomas Edwards in his Monostiches that he hath com-
posed of the Italian Cities, hath written this verse of
Bergomo.
Bergomum ab inculta dictum est ignobile lingua.
The governement of it is as the rest of the Cities subject
to the Venetians. Heretofore it was subject to the Roman
Empire, when the same flourished in his glory. But after
the downefall thereof it was spoiled by Attila when he
destryed Brixia, Verona, and other famous cities of Ttaly.
Then the Longobardes had the dominion of it for a long
time : then again the Kings of Italy made it tributary to
them. In the time of whose sway thereof it hapned to
Bergamo be once very straightly besieged by the Emperour Arnol-
besiiffd phus about the yeare of our Lord 900. much about the
900. ^^^ ^^^ j^^ besieged Verona aiso, as I have before men-
tioned. But he had not long girt it with siege before he
expugned it by force of armes. And having entred the
same, he apprehended and hanged one Ambrose Earle of
the City, wno fortified and detended it in the behalfe of
Guido (whom I have before mentioned) Duke of Spoleto
against Berengarius Duke of Friuli. After the Kings of
Itaiy the Turrians and Vicoxmts of Milan succeeded in
[p- 35^] ^c government thereof. Also the Scaligers of Verona
and the Frenchmen. But at last it suDJected it selfe
voluntarily to the Venetians, imder whose protection it
enjoyed tranquillity and peace at this day.
This City yeelded me the worst lodging for one night
that I found in all my travels out of England. For ail
S6
OBSERVATIONS OF BERGAMO ^
thc Innes wcrc so extreme fiill of people by reason of 1
the faire, that I could not get a convenient lodgmg though 1
I would havc givcn two or three duckats for it. So that I
I was faine to lye upon straw in one of their stables at the ^ '^'"'^ I
horsc feete, according to a picture that I have made of it " ^"^' I
in the frontispice of my booke. Where (notwithstanding I
my repose upon so uncouth a pallate) I slept in utramquc J
axirem, cven as securely as upon a bedde cf downe, bccausc ■
of my long journey the day bcfore. And it was long 1
belbre I could obtayne this favour, whtch was at last ^^^J
granted me by the meanes of an hcnest Italian Pncst who ^^^^|
nad beene a traveller. Unto whom I was not a litle ^^^^|
beholding for some curtesies that I received at his hands in ^^
Bergomo. He promised to revisit me the ncxt morning, ■
to the end to shew me the antiquitics of the City. But ^
he was prevented to my great gricfe by thc villany of a -J
ccTtaine bloud-thirsty Italian, who for an old grudge he 1
barc to him, shot him through the body in his lodging |
with a pcwterneU.
Also a certayne Dominican Frier of this City called ^ nurtim
Vincentius de Petrcngo, who was the chiefe rcadcr of the r^'""^""
Praedicatory tamily, and stiicd himselfc de Conventu
BascHx, did so grcatly gratific mc in this City, that I
cannot conveniently let him passe in this Treatise of
Bergomo, without somc kindc of mcntion of his name.
For I received a specialJ favour at his hands, which was
thjs. When I was to goe forth of thc City towards the
Grisons country, and so into Germany, being ignorant
of the way, I repaired to the Augustinian Friers to crave
some directicns of them for my journey. But none of
them could dircct me themselves, though very kindly they [p- 35'-]
brought mc acquainted with this foresaid Dominican, to
the end hc should satisfie me about the matter, because
he had lived within these few yeares in the territory of
the Grisons, as a Chaplaine to a certaine Clarissimo of
Vcnicc that was sent Ambassador unto thcm, at what timc
he prcached against the Calvinists of their country, as hc friendh
hinisclfe told me. Truly he gave mc as friendly councell Camitl.
The Sfam>i
in^uiiition le
bi fiartd ij
Traveliers.
[P- 3S*-
CORYATS CRUDITIES
as any Protestant could have done. For he told mc what
daungers there were betwixt that and Germany, and the
meancs how I might avoid them : that I was a Calvinist,
he said he was fuQy perswaded, bccause I was an English
man. Notwithstanding he would willingly give me the
best counsetl he could, in regard I was a stranger in those
parts. Therefore he significd unto me that it would be
very dangerous for me to passe in one place cf thc Grisons
country within a fcw milcs after thc entrance thereof, if
I were not very circumspect, For he saJd there was a
certaine Castle seated by the lakc of Como which was
possessed and euarded by a garrizon of Spaniards, by
which if I should happen to take my journey, they would
lay their Inquisition upon me, as soone as they should
perceive that I was an EngHshman, and so consequently
torturc me with extreme cruelty, if they saw me constant
in the profession of my religion, till they might compeil
me to abjure it, which if I would not doe by thc violence
of their punishments, then at last they would put me to
dcath, and excarnificate me after a very bitter and terrible
manner. For the avoiding of which dangers he counselled
me to leave the Castle on the left hand of my way, and
so to passe on the right hand towards a towne called
Chiavenna. Thus by the kind advice of this honest Frier
I tooke such a way in the Grisons country, that I shunncd
the Spanish Inqulsition, which otherwisc would not (I
bclecve) have given me leave to bring thus much newes
out of Italy into England, except I would have renounced
my rcligion, which God forbid I should ever doe, not-
withstanding any torments of Spaniards or any other
enemics of the Gospell of Christ. I am sure all kinde
of Fricrs will not give Protestants the like counsell to
cschew thc bloudy Spanish carnificina, (which is almost
as cruell a punishment as Phalaris his brasen bull, or the
exquisitest tormcnts that the Sicilian Tyrants wcrc wont
to inflict upon offenders) but on the contrary side
endcvour rather to intrappe them therein.
Those angry flies caJled cimices, which are generally
S8
OBSERVATIONS OF BERGAMO
disperscd over al! places of Italy in thc sommer time, did
very much offend me in this City, as they did also in every
City of Italy. They will shrewdly bite a mans skinne,
and leave their markes behind them, yet they will doe no
grcat hurt to a man.
I observed a strange phrase both in this City and aJl
other Italian dties where I was, that whensoever any Italian
doth discourse in Latin with a stranger or any man else,
he will very seldome speake to a man m the second person.
As tbr example he will not say, Placet ne tibi : but Placet
ne dominadoni tuae or vestrs. So that they doe most
commonly use that circunilocution, even to the meanest
person that is.
I observed another thing also in the Italians pronouncing liaRan pro-
of the Latin Tongue, which though I might have men- "^'"'f^gof
tioned before in the description of some of the other " "'
Italian Cities; yet scing I have hitherto omitted it, I will
hcre make mention thereof, rather then not at al, because
this is the last City of Italy that i shall describe in this
iourney. The Italian when he uttereth any Latin word
wherein this letter i is to be pronounced long, doth alwaies
pronounce it as a double e, viz as ee. As for example :
he pronounceth feedes for fides : veeta for vita : ameecus
for amicus, &c. but where the i is not to be pronouneed
long he uttereth it as we doe in England, as in these
wordcs, impius, aquila, patria, Ecclesia : not aqueela,
patreea, Eccleseea. And this prcncunciation is so generall [p. 353.]
in all Italy, that every man which speaketh Latin soundeth
a double e for an i. Neither is it proper to Italy only,
but to all other nations whatsoever in Christendome saving
to England. For whereas in my travels I discoursed in
I^tin with Frenchmen, Germans, Spaniards, Danes,
Polonians, Suecians, and divers others, I observed that
every one with whom I had any conference, pronounced
the i after the same manner that the Italians use. Neither
would some of them (amongst whom I was not a littlc
inquisitive for the reason of this their pronounciation)
sticke to affirme that PUutus, Terence, Cicero, Hortensius,
59
Bergan.
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Csesar, and those other selccted flowers of eloqucnce
amongst the auncient Romans, pronounced thc i in that
sort as they themselves doe. Whereupon having observed
such a generall consent amongst them in the pronounciation
of this letter I have thought good to imitate thesc nations
herein, and to abandon my oid English pronounciation of
vita, fides, and amicus, as being utterly dissonant from
the sound of all other Nations ; and have detcrmined
(God willing) to retaync the same till my dying day.
TaB/amous Amongst othcr learncd men of great note that this
" "-^ city hath bred, I will name two femous persons that after
they had a long time livcd hcrc in the profession of Popery,
being at last truly illuminated with Gods holy Spirit
abandoned this Citie which was their native soile, and
went into Germany, where they undertooke the profession
of the Gospell of Christ, and afterward persevered in the
Protestants religion til their last breath, These were Hier-
onymus Zanchius, and Gulielmus Gratarolus, Whereof
the first was a most singular Divinc, and a zealous Preacher
of Gods word in the rcnowned Cities of Strazbourg,
Hcidelbcrg, and othcr places of Gcrmany. Besides he
hath exceedingly edified the Christian common-weale,
[p. 35+.] espccially that which doth most sinccrcly professe the true
doctrine of Christ, by those manifold and most solid
workes of Divinity, that he hath pubhshed to thc world,
which will continue a sacred memory of his name till the
worlds end. The other though he were by profession a
Physition, and an excellent man in that faculty ; yet he
applicd himselfe to the study of Divlnity also, which doth
appearc by one notable Treatise that he wrote de notis
Antichristi. At last he dicd in the femous University of
Basil, wherc he spent the greatcst part of his life aftcr
his conversion.
Thus much of Bergomo.
IRemained in Bergomo all Wcdnesday, and departed
therehence the next day being the eighteenth of
August, about clevcn of the clocke in the morning, and
FROM BERGAMO TO MEZOLT
came to a village called St. Johns in the valley Brembana,
about sixc of the clocke in the evening. This was sixteen
miles from Bergomo. The first viliage that I passed
through was Zogno, which was twelve miles beyond
Bergomo : and St. Johns foure miles beyond that.
AI ihe villagcs both of the valley Brembana and of
the Grisons country are commonly called by thc name
of terrx : evcry severall village a terra. Thcre runneth a
very swift river through this valley called Brembus, where-
hence thc valley hath the name of Brembana. Most of
this valley is an ascent leading towards the AIpcs, At the
entrancc it is something plcasant way, but aftcr I had
passed somc sixtecn miles it was vcry laboursome and
painfull to travell, as well in regard of thc stecpnesse, as
of thc extrcmc hard stones wherewith the greatest part of
the way is pitched,
I departed from St. Johns about seven of the clocke in
the morning, the nineteenth day of August being Friday,
and came to a terra, upon the mountame Ancone called
Mezolt about sixe of the clocke in the evening. This
dayes journey was but eleven miles. I passed through
two villages of Terraes betwixt St. Johns and Mezolt.
Whereof the first was Allapiazza, where I dincd with
certaine Sclavonians, who told me that about five daies
befbre that, there were thirty Bandits taken about eight
miles bcyond that place, who lay in waite in certaine privy
corners of the mountaines, to spoile the passcngers that
were to travell that way towards Bergomo feire. Thesc
Bandits are banished men, who for some notorious villany
that they have committed in their owne countries, doe
voluntarily flie away for feare of punishment, and being
afterward very poore and destitute of maintenance, they
live by rifling and spoyling of travellers. The other of
the two Terraes is called Ulmo, thrce miles on this side
Mezolt. Within halfc a milc aftcr I was past Ulmo I
beganne to ascend the Mountainc Ancone, which is other-
wise called Montanc de S. Marco, a vcry high Alpe and
difficult in ascent. There lay at the same Inne at Mezolt,
[p. 355-]
Mtzatt.
Tiirty
Baniiitt
GORYATS CRWFTIES
tltaSM where I did, a certaine Grison ealled Joanne Curtabatus
"ff^^l/ borne in Chiavenna, with whoni I had much good dis-
*"^ ' course. For he spake prety good English. And lived
many yeares heretofore in Cambridgeshire with Sir Horatio
Palavicino an Italian, whom he served. He told me he
was a Protestant : I foimd him a man of very courteous
behaviour, and indeede he did me a certaine kindnesse,
in which respect I thought it fit to name him in my
journall.
I departed firom Mezolt about sixe of the docke in the
morning the twentieth day of August being Saturday, and
came about eight of the docke in the evening to a Terra
f^p' called Camp three and twenty miles beyond it, in the
fhiitfuU vaUey Telina commonly called Valtulina in the
Grisons country. From Mezolt to the toppe of Saint
Marks Mountaine it is foure miles. There standeth an
35^0 Inne built upon the toppe of this Mountaine which is the
farthest boimd of the Venetian Signiory, which extendeth
it selfe in length firom the City of Venice to this place,
no lesse than an hundred threescore and fourteene miles.
In all which space the Venetian money is current. Over
the dore of the foresaid Inne the golden wine^ed Lion is
erected, under whom this insaiptiSn is writt^iti blacke
letters upon a golden ground.
Via hsec ab urht Bergomi Morbinium tendens
Temporis injwia & montium ruinis interrupta,
Atque penitus interdusa, ad comjnimem usum et com-
modum non mod6 aperta fuit & instaurata, sed et-
iam planior ac latior effecta, insuper extructa prsesen-
ti rerum vectigalium taberna. Quae opera ab Aloy-
sio Priolo Praetore inchoata, & a Joanne Quirino Prae-
fecto ex Serenissimi Senatus decreto perfecta
fuerunt atque absoluta Anno cl^. I^. Xdv.
The end of my Observations of Italy.
6a
OBSERVATIONS OF RHETIA
My Observations of Rhetia commonly called
the Grisons Country.
jEtwixt the foresaid Inne and Morbinio it Mirbinl».
i nine mi]es. In all which space there is
a continuall descent from the Mountayne.
This Morbinio is seated at the very footc
of the hill, and is the first Towne of the
Grisons country, situate in the foresaid
valley Tehna, which is famous for wines.
For indecd it yeeldeth the best wines of al the Grisons
country, which are esteemed so good, that they are there-
hence carryed to all the principall and remotest places of
the Grisons territory. As to Curia the Metropolitan City Curia.
of the country threescore and seven miles off. None of
those wines are carryed in Carts. Because the narrow-
nesse of the waies is such that no Carts can passe there : [p. js?.]
but al upon horses backs. In this Towne and all other
places ot this valley they speake Italian, but such rude
and grosse language as in the City of Bergomo, or rather
worsc.
The name of Rhetia commeth from Rhetus a certayne Tkeimntryaf
King of Tuscia, who being expelled out of his owne "*"■
country by Bellovesus the Gaule about 587. yeares before
the incarnation of Christ, at what time he conquered the
Insubres, and built the City of Milan, came with many
of his subjects into these valleys seated betwixt the Atpes,
where they built Castels and foriificarions for their defence.
And after his time the country had his denomination from
him aa I have already said.
This country of Rhetia is at this day divided into two
parts, thc higher and the lower : all that Tract which
bcginneth from the fitrther edge of Switzerland, and
iacludeth some part of Lombardy as farre as the lake of
Como, (the inhabitants whereof are commonly calted the
Grisons) is the higher Rhetia. The lower deriveth his
beginniiig from the river Lycus, which divideth Chis from
«3
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
the higher, and extendeth it selfe as farre as the river
^nus, which boundeth Rhetia and Bavaria.
I observed a special commodity in this countrey that 1
Grfat could not see in Italy. For I saw grcat abundance of
ebnHJaiitrt sheepe here, which I met driven in the way in many great
"J ' "f- flocks, all the sheepe being according to my estimatlon
at the least foure thousand : but I heard they were not
the sheepe of the countrey, but the citizens of Bergomo,
which were kept here about the Alpine mountaines almost
al the yeare, and at that time of the yeare the sheep-heards
doe use to drive them home every yeare to their Masters.
'""'«'■ Also I noted marveilous abundance of little hip-frogges
in that part of this valley Telina, where I travelled. I
nevcr saw the hundreth part of them in so short a space
in all my Life: Most of thcir meadowes being so fijll of
them, that I could not step five or sixe steps but I should
[p- 358-] finfie a little frogge ; a thing that I much wondred at,
because I could not search out the naturall reason why
there should be more store of them there then in other
Countries. In my journey bctwixt Morbinio and Camp
where I lay that night, I left that castle on the left hand
whereof the Dominican Frycr Vinccntius of Bergomo told
me, which is guarded by a Garison of Spaniards. AIso I
saw the noble lake of Como, upon the brinke whcreof
the foresaid castle standeth : this lake is called in the
The Lake Italian Lago di Como from the city of Como seated by
9f ««»■ it^ which grieved me that I could not see, because it is
possessed by the Spaniards. For there I should have seene
two notable things the one a worthy elogium of Plinius
Secundas, who was a citizen of Como, though borne in
Verona, as I have before said ; that elogium I heard is
written upon our Lady Church dore : the other thc famous
study of Paulus Jovius that excellent Historiographer and
citizen of this citie also. That study is to this day shewed
standing in a little Pcninsula neare to the city which was
once vcry elegantly adorncd with the images of a great
Lmultitude of femous men, cspecially such as excellcd in
uiy i^culty of learning, a learned elogium being added to
64
OBSERVATTONS OF RHETIA V
every one by the same Jovius. This lake is othcrwise .^^J^H
called Lacus Larius from the Greeke word Xapo^, which ^^^^H
signifieth gavia, that is, a Sea-mew or Sea-gul, because ^^^^H
there is wonderfull pleiity of them about this Lake. The ^^B
foresaid Jovius hath most elegantly described this lake in 1
a pecuiiar Treatise thereof. 1
That night that 1 lay at Campe, which is a Terra, situate Camj>e, M
by the goodly lake of the Grisons, distant about foure fl
miles from the take of Como, and in some places at the I
least two miles broad, there happened such a horrible H
thunder, lightning and raine all that night, that it caused I
an exceeding fiuxe of waters from sundry places of the m
mountaines on both sides of the valley, that the next ■
morning 1 could not goe by land to the next village, by I
reason of the extreme inundation, but was constrayned to [p. 359.]!l
row thither in a boat. I departed from Camp about seven M
of the clocke in the morning, the one and twentieth day ^M
of August being Sunday, and came to a Terra called ^|
Candolchin being eighteene miles beyond it, above five
of the clocke in the afternoone, where I lay that night.
In this space I observed nothing memorable ; only I passed
through the towne Chiavenna, in Latin Clavenna, situate Chiavert»a.
at the farther end of the valley Telina, standing in a valley
of the same name, in which I travelled fiill twenty miles,
This towne ministred some occasion of comfort unto me,
because it was the first Protestant town that I entred since
I went out of ItaJy, yet not wholly Protestant. For some
part of it embraceth Popery, and heareth daily masse.
The Protestants that are here professe the CaJvinian not
the Lutheran religion, who had a very learned Preachcr
when I was there, called Octavianus Mcjus, who was
brought up in Geneva, his parents being Itahans of the
city of Luco in Tuscanie. In this towne dwelt Joannes
Curtabatus, of whom I have before spoken, who refreshed
my heart with a cup of excellent wine. This towne
is rich, and inhabited with many wealthy merchants;
also it hath great store of goodly vineyards growing
about it.
_ Rtiigi toayi.
[P- 36a]
^ i:heerfui
CORYATS CRUDITIES
The wayes both in the valley Telina some few miles
before I came to Chiavenna, and also in the ascent of thc
valley Candolchin, are very offensive to foote travellers.
For they are pilched with very sharpe and rough stones
that will very much punish and grate a mans feete. I
observed that the poore Alpine people dwelling in the
mountaynous places of the Grison territory, doe send their
children abroad into the high wayes with certaine hoddes
tyed about their necks, to gather up all thc horse-dung
that they can finde, which (as I take it) serveth onely for
the dunging of their Gardens. The like I saw many doe
in the valley Brembana, and in some few places of Lom-
bardy a little before I came to Bergomo.
I passed through a delicate great meadow a little on
this side Candolchin, contayning at the least forty acres
by my estimation, which was a thing that 1 much wondred
at, by reason that the countrey is so extreme stony and
barren, Invironed with such huge steepe mountaines on
both sides, and for that the Terra is situate in a marvailous
high place, having very high mountains both at the ascent
unto it, and the descent.
The houses in the poore Terraes of the Grisons that
are situate about the mountaines, are so made, that both
the endes and the sides doe consist of whole pine trees,
compacted together in steede of stony wals, though in
many places their walls are stony also, especially in thcir
faire townes, as Chiavenna &c.
A certaine Priest of this country cheered me with very
comfortable wordes at mine Inn at Candolchin, because
he saw I was a solitary man and a stranger. For he told
mee that because the fiire of some places of the country
was hard and the ways bad, hec would endeavour with
chccrfijli termes lo rowse up my spirits, and to be as merry
as a solitary man could, because I travellcd in as honest
a country as any in all Christendome. For had I a
thousand crownes about me, I might more securely travell
with it in their country without company or weapon, then
in any other nation whatsoever : affirming that he never
OBSERVATIONS OF RHETIA
hcard in all his life of any man robbed In that country.
This his speech was afterward confirmed unto me in other
places : which if it be true, I attribute more to the honesty
of this nation, then to any other that I could ever see,
rcade, or heare of under the cope of heaven ; but whether
I should ascribe this their innocencie to the severitie of
the lawes of their Country inflicted upon robbers, (whose
examples perhaps may terrifie others, and deterre them
from committing the like ofFences,) or to the inherent and
natural vertue of the people I know not, onely this I say, [p. 361.]
that I never heard of such rare honesty before in all my
life, in any people whatsoever before or since Christ.
I Observed in Candolchin and other places before I
came thither, both in the valley Brembana and Telina, a
straiige kinde of wooden cuppes like pailes, in which they ffooi/en cufu
bring up Wine to their Ghestes, with prety convenient
pipes about a foote long, to powre out the Wine into the
Glasse or cuppe, these are used also in most places both
of the Grisons country and Switzerland.
I departed from Candolchin about eight of the clock
the next morning being Munday, and the two and
twentieth of August, and came that night to a towne
called Tossana situate at the foote of a hill, twenty five Tmcna.
miles beyond it, about seven of the clocke in the evening;
The language in the valley of Candolchin is Italian.
After I was past Candolchin, I did continually ascend
for the space of eight miles till I came to the toppe
of a ccrtaine high mountaine called Splugen mountaine.
Betwixt all this valley of Candolchin, which beginneth a
little on this sidc Chiavenna, and extendeth it selfe to
the top of the foresaid mountaine, there runneth a very
swift lakc called Lir. I travelled sixteene miles in this
valley of Candolchin. From the toppe of the Mountaine
to the descent it is sixe miles. At the foot of the hill
there is a town called by the name of the Mountain, viz :
Splugen, which is wholy Protestant. From this place Splu^n.
forward all the Grisons speake Dutch. Here at Splugen
I entered into a third valley of the Grisons country,
67
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
[p. 362.]
namely the valley of the Rhene, which is so called
because a littie arme of the noble river Rhene runneth
through it. In this valley of Rhene I travelled tenne
miles. The Rhene which runneth through this valley,
flowes with such an extreme swiftnesse, that the water
thereof in certaine placeswhere it falleth downe from steepe
cataractes, raiseth a certaine reaking mist to a great heigth,
which proceedeth from the greate violence ot the torrent.
From Splugen to another towne of the same name
Westward it is a mile, from that to a towne called Sassam
five miles, from Sassam to Tossana seated at the foote of
a mountaine at the farther end of the valiey of Rhene,
five miles more. I meane not five miles of the Grisons
JGrisMmile country. But I reduce their miles to our English com-
miUs^^"^^* putation, one of theirs being five of ours. All those
foresaid towns professe the Protestant Religion. I
observed a custome in this country that is not used (I
thinke) in any place in Christendome, that whensoever a
stranger or any other of the same country, doth aske one
of them upon the way how many miles it is to any place,
he wiU not answere so many, but will tell you in so many
howers you may be there. Which yeeldeth a very uncer-
taine satisfaction to a traveller, because the speede of all
is not a like in travelling : For some can travell farther in
one howre, then others in three.
In many places of Rhetia, till I came into that part of
it which is almost wholy Protestant, I saw many little
Chappels built by the high way side (as in Savoy) tending
to Superstition ; as the picture of Christ, the Virgin Mary,
and sometimes of some Saints above the Altar.
The trenchers in most places of this country are so
strange, that although perhaps I shall seeme ridiculous to
the reader to mention so meane a matter ; yet howsoever
by reason of the noveltie of them, they shall not passe
unmentioned. They are for the most part at the least an
inch thicke, and as large in compasse as a cheese of my
country of Somersetshire that will cost a shilling.
The tyle of most of their houses is made of pieces of
68
Tlkick
trenchers.
OBSERVATIONS OF RHETIA
wood as in Chambery in Savoy, not of earth as in France,
Italy, and England.
The Windowes of their houses are exceeding little in
all their Terraes and in most of their townes, the greatest
part whereof are covered with litde boordes in the outside.
In sundry places of their country I observed divers b- 363-]
Castles and Forts of great antiquity built upon high ^X-/^
rockesy and eminent hils. But now they are much
ruinated, and of reparations : it is likely that these were
built either by the foUowers of King Rhetus that inhabited
this Country after he was ejected out of his Kingdome of
Hetruria in Italy by Bellovesus the Gaule (as I have before
said) or by the People of the coimtry for meanes of
defence against the armies of the Romans, that under the
conduct of Julius Caesar and many other noble captaines
of Rome, made themselves a way through this country
by force of armes into Germany.
They built a great multitude of little cottages upon the
very toppes of the steepe Alpine Mountaines, as in Savoy,
and have many littie plottes there also, as in Savoy.
Although the greatest part of this coimtry doth yeeld
very poore people : yet I have observed some few places
passinfi^ wel furnished with all manner of necessary com- ^ ^f^
modities for the sustentation of mans life : as Oxen and \^IZ
Sane, Sheepe, Goates, many goodly meadowes and pas-
tures, indifferent corne fields, and abimdance of wood that
eroweth upon the sides of the Moimtaines. Their drink
is not beere, but wine, the greatest part whereof the valley
Telina doth minister to the remoter places, as I have
before said. Also they are competently stored with hempe,
which they doe not strip with such laborious diificultie as
we doe in England by the meanes of their fingers, but by
certaine wooden instruments made for the same pxirpose
that do very easily sever the stranne firom the scale. Their
bn is cpodi in many places and very cheape. Amongst
many cushes that come to their table Martelmasse beefe
is very fi^uent.
But seeing I am now come into that part of the Grisons
69
CORYATS CRUDITIES
country which speaketh Dutch, I wil here interrupt my
[p- S^^-] description of it by the addition of a most elegant Latin
Oration that I have annexed imto this discowse written
in praise of the travell of Gcrmany by that learned Gcrman
Hermannus Kirchnerus, the author of the first Oration
that I have prefixed before my booke, and according to
my meane skiU rudely translated into oiu* mother tongue
by my selfe: which although perhaps it may seeme unto
sonle a meere impertinent matter to my present discourse :
^Ha a yg^ jjj re&ard that Rhetia is a member or Germanie, whose
^^ language a great part of it speaketh, and my first intro-
duction that conveighed me into this noble coimtry of
Italy, after my survay of some parts therof ; I hope the
candid reader wil not miscenswe me for inserting this
into my Observations, especialiy seeing the elegancy of it
is such, that it cannot be but pleasant to all readers what-
soever, but more particularly unto travellers, & most of
all unto those that either have ab-eady seene some parts
of Germany, or intend hereafter to see it. As I for mine
owne part have superficially observed some few principall
Cities thereof, and determine by the gracious permission
of the Ahnighty to see most of the famous Cities and
;reatest Princes Coiu-ts both of all the higher parts of
fermany & the Netherlands, which are places that to an
industrious traveUer wiU yeeld infinite both experience and
deUght. To detayne thee long with preambles of praises
of this most imperiaU and renowned Region out of my
Uttle experience of the same, were a matter very super-
fluous, seeing this most eloquent Oration doth as Uvely
paint her out in her true coloiu-s as ever ApeUes did his
Venus avaSvojuievfi. Onely the better to encourage thee
to see her glorious beauty, whereof I my selfe have to my
unspeakable joy and comfort perceived a Uttle gUmpse, I
say with Kirchnerus, that Germanv is the Queene of aU
other Provinces, the Eagle of all Kingdomes, and the
Mother of aU Nations. Therefore omittmg fiurther intro-
ductions I present unto thy gentle and favourable censiu^
this exceUent Oration it selre.
70
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Another Oration made by the foresaid Hermannus
Kirchnerus, a Civil Lawier, Orator, and Poet,
w &c. And pronounced in thc noble University
^P of Marpurg above named, by a worthy Schollar
f of his Henry de Stangi, a Silesian, upon this
Theme. That the travell of Germany is to be
preferred before all other travels.
F ihose things which seeme greatly to tend
to the knowledge of common affaires, to
the information of a right judgemcnt, to
the wisdome of a civill life, and the perfect
understanding of good counsets, are to be
earnestly commended and diligently deti-
vered unto youth, which shall be hereafter
advanced to the helme of publique authority : surely there
is no rcason why I should doubt but that the most laudable
custom of travelling, and the desire of knowing the
manners of forraine countries and nations, the lawes of
Cities, and formes of common-weales abroad should be
both esteemed very profitable atid pleasant, and also be
furthered to the uttermost with all manner of helpes, and
accounted the most necessary thing of all others for youth,
according to that excellent speech of Apollonius which is
every where extant amongst the ancients concerning this
matter, that a yong man ought to travell out of his
country no otherwise than if he were destitute of house
or home. Which custome of travelling if we have read
to have beene at any time frequented and used of any
nation whatsoever, certes we may most plainly perceive
as it were at noone-tide that it is at this day most famously
exercised by the men of our Germany, even by the
common and almost daily endevour of our Princes and
noble Personages that travell into farre countries, so that
there is scarce found a man of any note and fame in the
courtly life, in the politique conversation, and civill society,
which hath not both leartied the manners and languages of
praiueftravtl
in Gfifiiiny.
I
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
rforraine nations, and also seene abroadc in the world the
state and divers governments of Kingdomes, that hath not
with eyes and feete made use of England, Italy, France,
and Spaine, and observed whatsoever is memorable in
remote nations, and worthy to be seene in every place of
note.
I Cermani' Now as no man doth doubt but that this custome of
travelRng ^^^ Germanes travelling out of Germany beyond the Alpes
enmJendid. ^"'^ ^^e Seas, is greatiy to be commended especially if they
»prescribe unto themselves a just and laudable end of
travelling : so againe who will not say but that this
preposterous order of our men is justly to be condemned
which they observe in the course of their travels, when
as most of them after they have with great dihgence sought
out the Roane, the Seine, the Tyber, and the Po ; and
not only curiousiy searched for the ruinous theaters of the
ancient Romans, and the rubbish of their decayed build-
ings, but also crept inlo all the stewes, all the brothell
houses, and burdelloes of Italy, after I say all these things,
have so omitted the sight of the most beautifull Cities of
Germany their country, the most elegant Townes, the well
governed Common-weales thereof altogether unltnowen
unto them, that they are not able as much as to name the
principall ornaments of Germany, Which thing truly is
not only unworthy a Citizen that loves his country but
also an argument of notable negligence, & most unbeseem-
ing a German man, not to Itnow, not to see, not to search
out Germany wherein he was borne and brought up,
wherein he hath all his wealth and all his estate, and for
whose sake (if neede should require) he ought not doubt
to powre out his vitall bloud. And why so7 are you not
all constrayned (my feliow Academicks) to subscribe to this
my opinion that the knowledge of no nation is so necessary
as the searching out of a mans owne country, and the
manners thereof, and ihe right understanding of that
common-weaie whereof each of us is a part and member ?
the Lamiae that are a certaine kinde of Monsters, are
I at in the Poeticall fables, in that they were so
IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY
blimle at home that they coiild not see their owne affaires,
couki fbresee nothing ; but when they were once gone from
home, thej were accounted the most sharpe-sighted and
curious searchers of all others: so who doth not thinke
that the eyes of our Germans that gadde into Italy,
France, and I know not whither, are very ridiculous, when
as by taking long voyages unto farre remotc people, after
they have cunousiy sought out all matters amongst them,
are ignorant of the principall things at home, and know
not what is contayned within the precincts of their country,
and are reckoned altogether strangers in their native soile.
What is there nothing (saist thou) at home that is worthy
to be seene and knowen, and for whose sake a jowney
ought to be undertaken? I that am a stranger m mine
owne country will contend with thee in this Oratorian
field conceming this subject, and will produce most
apparant reasons to prove that the travell of Germany is
more excellent then of all other nations, and to be pre-
ferred before all others. Wherefore I intreate you to
entertaine my Oration with gentle eares, yea I earnestly
lequest and beseech you for the love sake of your coimtry,
to receive my speech with yoiu- wonted favour and
indulgence, while I give you a tast of the principall
omaments of our conmion country.
Therefore that my Oration may derive her beginning f^hattravei
even from this, I will aske this first question : how many
travellers there are that when they undertake any voyage
do ri£;htly understand what travell meaneth. Since many
doe fondly imagine that it is nothing else then a certayne
gaddinc; about, a vaine beholding of sundry places, a
transmigration firom one country to another, whose feete
doe only move firom place to place, and whose eyes are
conveighed firom one field to another. Of whom thou
mayest very rightly use that knowen speech of the Poet.
The climate, not their minds they change,
That sayling over every Sea doe range.
But we will say that he is the man that visiteth forraine
73
meaus.
I
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Kingdomcs and doth truly travell, and that according to
the censure of all learned men, the consent of Historians,
and the opinion of politicians, he I say, who whither
soever he directeth his journey, travelleth for the greater
benefit of his wit, for the commodity of his studies, aiid
the dexterify of his hfe, who moveth more in minde then
body, who attayneth to the same by thc coursc of his
travel, that others doe at home very painfully and with
great study by turning of bookes. Wil! you havc me
(my worthy Auditors) speake more plainly to you? it is
travell that stirreth up wisdome, purchaseth fortitude,
confirmes it being purchased, gives light unto us for the
instruction of our manners, makes us from barbarous to
be gentle and milde natured : it rooteth out a fond selfe
love, it availeth to sufFer labours, to undergoe dangers,
and with a valiani and manly minde to endure them, and
sheweth us the nearest way to the solid learning of all
things, What need many words ? let travell be the plenti-
fuU institution of all our life. For histories doe tcach
us that men of old time dJd travell to that end. So that
AtKiint Solon travelled into Asia, Plato into Egypt, Pythagoras
travilkn. j^jq \xa\y^ thc Romans to Marselleis, Mithridates into
Cappadocia, and others undertookc very long and tedious
voiages to this end, that they might gather together the
lawes and ordinances of their common-weale out of the
divers decrees of sundry nations, and that the best of them,
after they had gathered them, might convert them to the
use of their country, that whatsoever excellent things they
did reape abroade amongst others, they might bring them
home, and at home instruct their countrymen therem. If
thou undertakest the desirc of travcllmg with that minde
and intent, to what end dost thou goe forth of thy country ?
whither dost thou bend thy course? to what end dosi
thou travell with the swallow leaving thy nest? doth not
Praiitsf Germany in respect of the plenty and commodity of those
Girmany. fhings, by many degrees excell all other nations ? who as
fhe Queene of all other Provinces, the Eagle of all
Kingdomes, the Mother of all nations, doth shee not most
IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY
I plentifijlly impart unto thee all those thinges which may
tend as well to the happy institution of a common-weale,
1 as to integrity of manners, purity of religion, and piety of
I life, the ornament of wit, and the elegancy of speech?
] for if thou desirest to know the formes of common-weales,
I and the governement of a Monarchie, if thou wouldest
1 ■-■nnderstand the manner of an aristocraticall rule, and of
I the popular state, where shalt thou better and more exactly
^learne these things then in Germany, which is as it were
an abridgement of the world? pray goe with me (my
courteous Auditors) and consider the most goodly
Common-weales and Cities of our Gcrmanie. What I
^^ Pf^y you, will you finde wanting in that most stately
^LConunon-weale of Strasbourg, in that most plentifull
^«■Norimberg, in most elegant Auspourg, in spacious Colen,
^Hiin most beautifull Lubeke, in that worthily commended
^HiBresIaw? In which cities according to the testimony of
^BScaliger in his booke intituled of the praise of Cities,
^■«quitie her selfe doth reigne, all iniquity is banished,
justice doth governe, for unjustice no place is left, good
men are called forth with rewardes, and evill men called
backe from vice and punishments, If thou desirest to
behold the most happy state of an Empire that can be
devised in the world, namely of our most sacred
Emperour, our most potent Electors, our illustrious
Princes, our Earles, Barons, Nobles, and other rankes
knit together with a most admirable bond, thou shalt
not see it any where but in Germany, but onely
in Germany, I say. In Germany thou shalt behold
the steppes of the ancient Persian Empire, and a cer-
taine lively image thereof : in Germany, the power
and liberty of the Grecians : in Germanie thou shalt
observe the possession of the ancient Romanes. Wouldest
thou with Cyneas the Ambassadour of Pyrrhus crave such
a Senate of the Empire, wherein should be all Kings, all
like to auncient Pyrrhus? In no place of the earth shalt
thou findc it but onely in Germany, Wilt thou heare
onsullations of the weightiest matters of all the world?
75
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
^^^^^^^ No where shalt thou heare them but in the Diets of
^^^^^^H Germany. Witt thou have Captaines of the great Empire
^^^^^^^^ mightier then the successors of Alexander himselfe? No
^^^^^^H where shalt thou 6nd it but in Germany. Dost thou crave
^^^^^^H the most famous Tribunall in the whole Empire, the shop
^^^^^^H of the auncient Roman justice, and as it were the Sessions
^^^^^^H of the old Amphictyones of Greece ? No where shalt thou
^^^^^^H behold it but in Germany. Good God, if for the behold-
^^^^^^H ing of this most sacred meettng those andent heads of the
^^^^^^r civill law could be recalled to the fruition of this vitall
^^H breath, Papinlanus, Paulus, Ulpianus, Pomponius, Caius,
^^M Julianus, and ali other sacred Masters of the lawes could
^^r returne into this world out of their ashes, truly I beleeve
they would travell into the middle of Germany from the
Elysian fields, yea I will say that Astrfea her selfe the
Goddesse of justice would descend with them from heaven
to place her habitation there also amongst mortall men.
But what shal) I say of the other fruits of travell?
where shalt thou more happily and studiously attaine to
all the liberal sciences then in Germany, which doth excell
the auncient Egyptians in the study of Geometrie, the
Hebrews in Religion, the Chald^ans in Arithmeticke, the
Grecians in all arts, the Romans in discipline, and in variety
of mechanicall trades, constancy, and fortitude, ali other
nations. Which the very strangers themselves how much
soever they envy us, are constrained to confesse maugre
their hearts. Bodin wrote this though he were very
sparing of the German praise, the very truth it selfe
wresting the speech from him, he wrote it I say, and
proclaimed it of the Germans with an open voice, out of
the Kingdome of France, Neither can any other man
write otherwise of it. Let them behold so many learned
TSe German Athenx in Germanie, so many noble Universities, as that
of Vienna in Austria, of Heidelberg in the Countie Pala-
tine, of Colen by the Rhene, of Prage in Bohemia, of
Erdfurt and Jene in Thuringia, of Leipzick, of Rostock,
Louan, Friburg, Ingolstat, Basil, Gripswald, Tubingen,
Mentz, Wittenberg, Franckford, Konigsberg, Julia, in the
IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY
Duke of Brunswicks dominion, Strasbourg, Altorph, Let
them also behold this our famous seate of all the Muses,
which hath nourished that opinion of a most happy genius
and nature amongst all strangers even from her firsf
beginning, that even as Ammianus hath writtcn of the
University of Alexandria, that it never dismissed any
from it but endewed with learning; so out of this noble
Academie there have sprung Counsellors for Kings over
all the world, and for our sacred Emperor himselfe, and
governors and teachers for all common-weales, Churches,
and Schooles. What also shall I say of those other
Universities like unto ours? unto whom 1 would not
doubt but that al! the Sages of the Grecians, all the wise
Romans, and all the famous Orators would travell into
Germany, if they should happen to enjoy the benefite
of life againe,
No where shalt thou find so many Archimedes, so many
Vitruvii, so many NasicEe, so many Ciceroes, so many
Horaces, so many Virgils, so many Sctevolae, so many
Papiniani, as in Germanie. Which also Argyropylus the
learnedst of the Grecians confessed at Rome in the Popes
Court, when he cryed out that all the graces, all arts, and
good letters were fled beyond the Alpes into Germany,
The day would fail me if I would make a Catalogue of
the most femous wits that are in this one Province of
Hassia, and especially in this University wherein we Ilve,
how many and how great lights it doth yeeld that may
compare with that admirable antiquity of the auncient
Grecians and Romans. Here could I point out to thee
with my finger Caians, L^clians, Mufians ; here Galens,
here Platoes, here such as Socrates, here TuIIIes, here
Virgils, here also (which is the most to be wished for thing
of all) the Chrysostomi, the Epiphanii and Athanasii.
Wilt thou go to lcnow military discipline? where I Germam
pray thee shalt thou finde the Schoole of Mars but amongst /""'" '■
the Germans, amongst whom it was thought in former
limes that Mars himselfe dwelt ? for which cause Alexander
that both in substance and name was great, very wisely
I
CORYATS CRUDITIES
thought it was not good for him to provoke thc Germans
into the field. AIso C. Caligula, and Augustus stoode in
such feare of them that when they heard a rumour of their
comming into Italy, they doubted much of their safety,
so that both of them fled beyond the sea : what can be
more gloriously spoken of the Germans Mars ? what more
worthily reported .' no man by force of arms recalled the
Gothes when they invaded Spaine, no man expulsed the
Saxons when they surprized Brittaine, no man kept out
the Vandals when they subdued Africk, no man repelled
the Francks when they vanquished Gallia, no man re-
pressed the Ostrogothes when they conquered Itaiy. Most
incredible hath been the strength of our warlike valour,
and our military arts have been admired by all nations
wherewith our Germany hath excelled in all ages, and with
which it hath gotten the prize from all nations, and the
Empire and praise of the victory even from the Romans
themselves which were the conquerors of all other people.
Most justly is Germany to be called the shop of Mars,
which hath ministred most valiant Captaines, and expert
souldiers and forces to all famous battels that were ever
waged in any parts of the earth, from the time of the
great voiage or Xerxes. For what skirmish, what fight,
what notable campe was there ever in the field in the
time of our forefathers without Germans? what sea, what
country is so remote unto whom the gleaves and halberts
of our Germans are at this day unknowen? as for those
warres which are waged at this day in the Netherlands
and in Hungarie, are they not managed by the helpe and
industry of our Germans? what sayest thou to the most
mighty Tyrant of the east which most earnestly attempted
with fire and sword to destroy the whole world, have not
the armes of the German Mars brought him into those
streights that he was compelled humbty to crave peace,
and having craved it could hardly obtaine it? moreover
in no place of the world are thcre to be seen stronger
munitions, greater fortresses, better fortified Cities then in
Germany. No where can a man see greater provision of
78
m PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY
pceces of Ordinance, engins and warlike instruments then
in Germany. I could name unto thee the principall Forts,
Castels, garrizons, and armouries of our most potent
Dukes, Princes, and Common-weales over all Germany,
whereof part I know with mine eies, and part have heard
with mine eares. I could shew unto thee Vienna the
raost invincible Fortresse of Christendome, that hath beene
so often assaulted by the frustrate attempts, and great
enterpnses of that most cruell enemy : I could point out
unto thee Dresden a place of incredible strength and
puissance : I could name Custrinum the strong seate of
Brennus : I could speak cf the fortifications and rampi
of Meidenburg : the wals, and lofty battelments and
towers of Strasbourg : also I could mention the Castels
and strength of Norimberg : the greatnesse of Colen : the
puissance of Ulm : the force o( Auspurg : withall I could
make relation of this most auncient Province of the vahant
Catti, which is strengthned with most invincible fortifica-
tions, even to the great admiration of the eyes and eares
of all strangers: besides I could tell thee of a great many
other strong fortifications of Germany, whose number doth
exceed the gates of the Thebanes, were it not that in this
ptace I make my speech unto those that know their country
of Gcrmanie more exactly then my selfe.
I passe over the exercises of the frequent tilts and
horscmanship used in the Courts of so many mighty
Princes, I speake nof of their manners and grave dlscipline
which doe much confirme the science of military vertue.
Goe thy wayes now, and see whether thou canst secke for
in any other part of the earth a greater opportunity of
understanding warlike affaires. But perhaps thou wilt say
that a man may reape more pleasure in the travcls of
Italy and France. How so I pray thee ? for truly I see
not, I understand not how that should be true. Whom
will not the magnificence of Palaces Jn Germany dehght,
the beauty of so many royall buildings, and most artificiall
architectures ? which heretofore ^neas Sylvius an Itahan
borne, and the most learned of all the Popes when he
^
CORYATS CRUDITIES
^^. made his aboade in Germantc, affirmed that he could not
^Kr sufficiently admire.
^^1 The counterfaited and painted delights of Italy are much
^^M canyed about the world, but pray how can they compare
^^M with these our pleasures and commodities? those present
^l themselves only to the outward eies and pleasure of the
f body : but these bring great pleasure of the minde accom-
panied with singular profite. Pray what can Italy, France,
England, or Spaine shew unto thee that Germany hath
Thefirithty ^^^ j ^^^ (.[,q^ dehghted with the pleasure of fields, the
■^ "■ fertility of trees, the ptenty of vineyards? thou needest
not run into Campania for that purpose, or visit the
Florentine gardens, or goe beyond the Alpes to see the
Orchards and famous Paradises of Cardinals. Germany
will afford thee ferre more elegant both gardens and fields
not only of our soveraigne Princes and noble Peeres, but
also of our most wealthy Citizens of Norimberg, Aus-
pourg, and else where. The Rhene, and Neccar, will shcw
thee that abundance of vineyards, that plent)' and excel-
lency of wine, the Moene will yeeld thee that amcenity,
and so will the Ister, that neither the Adnatique gulfe, nor
ihe Seine, nor Tyber can compare with those ptaces of
Germany. What need I report unto thee our woods and
groves, wherein nature her selfe doth take pleasure to
inhabite.' in what country shalt thou find the samc more
fruitfull, and better replenished with all pleasures &
delights then in Germany? the pleasure of hunting which
many doe preferre before all other recreations of this life,
thou mayest enjoy in Germany to thy very fill. Dost thou
delight to behold the sea? and to see the ebbing and
flowing of the armes thereof, to goe aboord great ships,
and to exercise thy selfe with navigation? then goe to
the maritime cities of lower Germany, and to their most
elegant mart Townes. Desirest thou to know the iashions,
habits, and languages of sundry nations? Germany will
shew thec in the havens of Hamborough and the Baltical
Cities, Russians, Italians, Frcnchmen, Englishmen, Span-
iards, Polonians, Danes, Suecians, and also the farthest
IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY
Portmgals. Besides so many plentifuU mines of copper,
yron, silver, and gold, in Germany, in Bohemia, (whicn is
also a great part of the German Empire) in Misnia, in
Moravia, in Saxony, in Silesia : for the knowing whereof
who would not be drawen from the farthest boundes of
the whole world? I well know that Cornelius Tadtus
woukl retume into Germany from the infernall parts, if the
fates would permit him, that he might behoid all these
things, and illustrate them with new writings. Doe thou
not passe over the most holsome and pleasant bathes of
Gennany, unto the which when Poggius the Florentine
came, he thought that he was arrived at a new Paradise, in
90 much that he wrote that nothing in the whole compasse
of the earth could be found more pleasant, more sweet,
then the bathes of Baden : for he said that there was the
seate of the Graces, the bosome of love, and the Theater
of pleasure. Art thou delighted with most witty fabricks
and inventions? In no place of the world shalt thou
finde more witty engins and excellent peeces of worke-
manship, then in Germany. Which all strangers are
constrained to graunt, in so much that they say, the
Germanes have their wit at their fingers ends. By the
Germanes wit the art of printing was first invented, of
all arts that ever were as the most profitable, so the wittiest
invention, so that it seemeth to be ascribed not so much
to mortall men, as to the immortall God, which is mani-
fested by the testimony of a certaine Poet that saith thus.
O Germany first foundresse of that skill
Then which time passed hath nought more useful found,
Teaching the Presse to ease the writers quill.
To what end should I advance the other inventions of
the Germans ? what shall I name unto you their Gunnes ?
which although they were invented to the destruction of
men, yet for the goodly invention they are worthily
oommended.
The art of making clocks that were in the time of Clockmaking.
Carolus Magnus brought into Germany by the mimificence
a c. II. 8i F
GfftMH
antiquiHes,
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
of the Persian Ambassadors, which at that time were a
great miracle to ovir people, the East, and Persia her selfe
that first gave them, having now received them againe
from the hands and wits of the Germanes, doth greatly
admire them, according as Augerius hath certified us.
But perhaps thou wilt say that Italy will shew thee
more auncient monuments, and more imafi^es of antiquity.
Report I pray thee (for I desire to hear it) the ruines of
auncient Theaters, the decayed pillars of the auncients,
and the fields where Troy was, as Virgil speaketh.
But (good God) Germany wiU present unto thee many
more rehques of auncient things, wnich was a very flovirish-
ing Kingdome with Cities and Villages above a thousand
years before Rome was built. For what can Italy shew
answerable to the antiquity of the German Trevu-s? if
thou dost looke upon the old ruines and mortar, the
auncient stones that have continued there even from the
time of the old Babylonian Ninus, doe present unto thee
the most true signes of walles built with pitch and slime.
If it pleaseth thee to behold the townes and buildings of
the ancient Romans, looke upon Colen, Auspvirg, and
other most ancient Cities. If thou wovddest see tombe
stones with auncient inscriptions and statues, thou hast the
monument of Drusus, neare Mentz, upon a hill by the
Rhene, which the auncient historians have so often men-
tioned. There is nothing in all the Italian antiquities that
can be preferred before those of Germany. Can the sight
of Cannse, of Trebia, and Thrasimenus, that are so
famoused for Annibals victories and his slaughter of
the Romans, more delight thee then the Rhene and
Danubius, which for the space of three hundred years
bare the brunt of the Roman forces ? Can those auncient
places of Italy minister more pleasure unto thee where
heretofore the Volsci, the Veientes, the Sabini, thc
Hetrusci, inhabited, then those, where the auncient
conquerers of so many Kingdomes, and the vanquishers
of Italy it selfe, even those victorious people of Ger-
manie, the Gothi, the Longobardi, the Catti, the Suevi,
82
IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY
the Sicambri, the Bructeri, the Angrivarii, the Bavari,
the Treviri, the Nervii, the Nemetes, the Triboci, the
Vangiones, the Ubii, the Frisii, the Cimbri, the Franci,
and other innumerable most glorious nations dwelt ? Doth
the memory of Scipio, Metellus, and Julius Csesar, more
delight thee then the statues of most valiant Ariovistus,
warlike Harminius, invincible Charles, couragious Roland,
glorious Hennr, and of other heroicall Worthies? but
why doe I call up dead men to the stage? why doe I
sp^dce of those that lie in the graves ? admit that all these
things so worthy to be seene and heard, were wantins
imto us, yet the hospitality of the Germans, the excet
lentest vertue of all others (the praise whereof derived
firom their parents they doe most worthily maintayne)
whom would it not incite to travell into Germany, whom
would it not allure, whom would it not draw? which it
is written the famousest amongst the auncient Romans to
have done, namely Pliny, Tacitus, Julius, Augustus,
Tiberius, who vaunted that he travelled nine times out
of Italy into Germany. But what a kinde of solitarinesse
was there then of old Germany, what an unshapen face,
what a roughnesse, so that if it be compared with the
present Germany, it seemeth to be made a golden and
marble country out of a leaden and wooden, even as Sylvius
hath testified, whose eyes the brightnesse of the Empire
and the German nation did so dazell, that he wrote this
to the men of his owne nation. Let us endevour that we
may be called rather Germanes then Italians, but although
we cannot prevaile to bring that matter to passe, yet
howsoever let us direct our studies to that end, that we
may alwaies obey that famous nation. Adde unto aU
these things the Germans faith and inte^ity, and the most
safe seate of travelling. Italy is full of a thousand
treacheries, of a thousand dangers, and Spaine also is as
full of them, whereof a man may most truly use that
speech.
Moumine; and dread in every place,
And deaths fell image shewes her face.
83
CORYAT-S CRUDITIES
Since therefore these things arc true, why shoixld any
man wondcr that from thc remotest regions of the
southerne world the Antipodcs, and those whom all the
age of the Romans knew not, and whose bcing to havc
beleeved it was accounted a most haynous crime and deadly
offence, have of late yeares arrived in Germany, after an
infinite length of travell to see our most valiant Nether-
landers? Againe, why should anv man wonder that not
only in the time of the Empire of Charles the Great, but
Persianambas' ^lso no longcr then seven yeares since, the Ambassadors
^Qmnan^^ of the King of Persia came to ovir most Sovcndgne Prince
Mauritius to Cassels (which Pcter Ramus commended at
Paris out of thc Kings Professors chaire of thc University,
and which in his writings he stiled by the name of a second
Syracusae where Archimedes dwelleth) being movcd with
the femc of so worthy a Prince, whom all forraine Nations
and People doe admirc and honour fbr the Phoenix of
his time, and from thence to have travelled through the
middle of Germany to our most invincible Emperour
Rodolph. It is evcn incredible to be reported how much
they admired the Cities and Townes of Germany, our
Princes territories, and the large bounds of the Empire,
the strong Cities and Fortresses. I thinke there are some
in this company, that when they were commorant in this
Province with our most noble Prince for some certaine
dayes, and saw those Ambassadors, they heard how greatly
they commended the mimition of Cassels, affirming that
there was not the like in all Persia. With what wonder
and astonishment they beheld the armoury, the rampicrs
and trenches thcre, how they observed the magnificcnce
of the Palaces and Gardens, and how they commended the
pompe and regall glory of thc Court. For thcse things
trom their report came afterward to our eares. Moreover
why should a man wonder, that men being; so ofren
publiquely sent from the innermost desarts of thc Russians
and Moschovites came into Germany to behold thc glory
of the imperiall Diet, the might of thc Empire, thc
elegancy or the Cities, and thc most noble institution of
84
IN PRAISE OF TRAVEL IN GERMANY
the common-weale. Also we understand by the report of
Augerius Biisbequius a most true Writer, that when as
in tnc memory of our fathers, the Ambassadors of Solyman
the great Turke came to Franckfort to the assembly of
the Frinces, being conducted thither through the middle
of Germany, they were even amazed and astonished with
wondering at the most populous Cities, the multitude of
Castels, most beautifuU Provinces of the most potent
Electors and Princes. Also it is manifest that the like
hapned to the Polonians and Frenchmen, when they
guarded King Henry out of the Kingdome of France
through the middle of Germany; so that they affirmed
they then understood with what great power and glory
Germanie did excell all other Kingdomes. jn ehquent
Let others therefore goe according to their affections fanegyru.
whither they list, let them travell into England, remaine
and dye in Italy, let them waxe tawnie in Fortingall, and
be dyed with the Sunne and soile of Spaine, let them
travell into France, saile into Scotland, and let others
againe goe to other places; for mine owne part I have
resolvea that I will never aiter my opinion, but will ever
thinke that the travell of Germany is to be preferred before
all others, and to be more profitable and pleasant then
others : and as Plato is said to have given thanks to the
Gods in that he was an Athenian born and not a Theban,
so let us most worthily congratulate ovir good fortunes
in that we are not strangers, but Germans borne. And
surely I doe even promise my selfe (my gentie Auditors)
that there is not one of you all but after he hath considered
the reasons of this my opinion, and weighed my arguments
with an equall and indifferent judgement, he will be of the
same minde that I am, and approve my speech.
We beseech the almighty God that is the founder of Aprayerfir
all Regions and Provmces, with all possibie earnest ^^^^V*
prayers, that he would protect, save, and defend our
common country Germanie, being the Mother and sove-
raigne Queene of all other Kingdomes, adorned with the
imperiall roabe of dominion and glory of the Csesarean
»5
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Majesty above all other Empires and Kingdomes, most
purely illuminated with the light of Gods hoJy word above
all other nations, decked with victories and most glorious
triumphes, endowed with most mighty, happy, and wise
Emperours, Princes, and Governours, enriched with all
gifts of humane blessings and prosperity, against all the
assaults of ovir enemies : and finally that he would embrace
it even to the worlds end with the sweetnesse of his
inexhausted goodnesse and clemency ; but most espedally
that he would everlastingly preserve in a most flourishing
estate this Province of Hassia, which is the most beautifuD
of all Germany, wherein I am a sojomer for learning sake,
Hassia I say, which heretofore brought forth the most
potent Macedonian Philip of Germany, William the most
wise Solomon of Germany, and now the Prince Maurice
the only miracle of all vertue and learning : also I beseech
him that he would make our Church and Academie
fruitfull like a fertile vineyard, and perpetually
protect it against wolves and beares, and all
the attempts of our adversaries, that
we may sing and cry out with the
Kingly rrophet, He hath
not done thus to
every nation.
PINIS.
86
OBSERVATIONS OF RHETIA
HAving imparted unto thee this most excellent Oration [p- 3^^0
in praise of the travell of Germanie, the reading
whereof cannot be but very delightfull unto thee, I wiU
now retume unto that part of the Grisons country where-
hence I digressed, even to Tossana, where I entred a Tossana.
fourth valley which is called by the same name as the other
inimediately behind it, namely the valley of Rhene,
because that river runneth through this also where it
inlargeth it selfe in a farre greater bredth then in the other
valley. Also some doe cdl it the vailey of Cviria from
the citie of Curia the metropolitane of the country, stand-
ing in the principall and most fertil place thereof .
I departed from Tossana about seven of the docke in
the morning, the three and twentieth of August beeing
Tuesday, and came to Curia tenne miles beyond it, whicn
is the head citie of the country (as I have before said)
about one of the clocke in the arternoone.
I observed many wooden bridges in this valley, made Bridgts made
of whole pine trees (as those of Savojr) which are rudely tfp^^ trees.
clapped together. One of those bridges is of a great
length, about one hundred and twenty paces long, and
sixe broad, & roofed over with timber. AJso it hath fovire
very huge wooden pillars in the water. This bridge is
made over the river Rhene, about five miles on this side
the citie of Curia, over the which every stranger that
passeth payeth money.
I observed this country to bee colder by halfe then
Italie, the ayre beeing heere as temperate as with us in
England.
The abundance of Peares and Apples in many places •^^daiue rf
of Rhetia, especially about the citie ot Curia, is such that ^''''«^^^**^-
I wondred at it : For I never saw so much store together
in my life, neither doe I thinke that Calabria which is so
much stored with peares, can yeeld more plenty for the
auantitie or space of ground, then this part of Rhetia [p- 3^7«]
oth. Their trees being so exceedingly laden, that the
boughes were even ready to breake mrough the weight
of tne fruite.
87
CORYATS CRUDITIES
The Alpes on both sides of this valley are farther
distant a sunder, then in the other parts of Rhetia that I
had before passed, hy meanes of which distance, the space
betwixt them being exceedingly enlarged, doth yeeld many
fairer meadowes then I saw in me other places of the
country : amongst the rest I passed one very goodly and
pleasant meadow about a mile on this side Curia, which
in my opinion contained about two hundred Acres.
My Observations of Curia,
Commonly called Chur, the Capitall Citie of Rhetia.
CAur. /^ Uria is of some antiquitie, for it was built about the
\j^ yeare after the incarnation of Christ 3 54. at what time
Constantine the Emperour when he made warre against
the Alemannes, lodged his campe in this valley, and in the
same place where the citie now standeth, kept a kinde of
court or Sessions for the debating of the common affaires,
wherehence the citie bein^ biult a little after his departvire,
had the name of Curia, but it was often after that called
by the name of Augusta Rhetorum or Rhetica, as I have
before written in my notes of Turin. It is seated under
an high Alpine Mountaine, and built in a triangular forme,
having on the east and south the steep Moimtaines,
whereof those on the East are well planted with vine-
yards; on the west and north side is a g^oodly spacious
plaine, especially that on the North, wherin the river
Khene runneth, being about an English mile and halfe
distant from the citie. It is invironed with a faire wall,
[p. 368.] having three gates therein, and adorned with certaine
pretty turrets that doe much beautifie the same. It was
converted to the faith of Christ shortly after the first
TheCathedral building thereof . The Cathedral Church is dedicated to
Church. g Martin^ 2LCLd was built by one Thello a Bishop of this
city, in number the seventeenth, about the year 770.
This Church belongeth to the Protestants, the whole dtie
indeed being Protestant (but of the Calvinist religion)
saving onely some little part, which in a Church that is
88
OBSERVATIONS OF CHUR
tiilt in the higher part of the Citie hath daily masses
celcbrated. In that Church I saw one very auncient
monument o( a certaine Bishop of this citie, but destitutc
of an Epitaph, so that the citizcns could not tell nie what
his namc was that lay buried thcrc. AIso I observcd in
the same Church many images, superstitious pictures, and
Papisticall vanities, as an exceeding great and long picture
of Saint Christopher, carrying Christ upon his shoulders,
and the image of an Asse with extraordinary long eares,
and Christ sitting upon him bare-legged and bare-footed.
I was in thc Bishops Palace which standeth in the higher
part of the citie, bccing a very fairc and goodly building,
and of great antiquitie. For thc Bishopricke of Curia ^'*'
is esteemed one of the anticntest Bishopricks of all "■'
Germany, For it beganne in the yeare 452, The first
Bishop being one Asimo, who was one of the number of
those Bishops that were assembled together at the Coun-
cell of Chalcedon in Grecce. Since which time there hath
beene a succession of some eighty Bishops unto him that
was Bishop when I was therc, whose name was Joannes
Flugius, but a Papist, He lived not in the City, but in
another place of Germany in voluntary banishment. For
about some twelve moneths before I was in Curia, there
was a tumult raised in the City, whereof I heard he was
the principall Authour. Whercupon because he feared
that the Citizens would have punished him, hc wcnt
voluntarily into exile, so that now hc liveth a very obscure
and private life, There is great trafficke exercised in this [p. 369.]
City, being the place where they lade and unladc their
merchandise. For whcnsoever they send any merchan-
dise beyond the Mountaincs, thcy lay two packes upon
each horsc. For they use only horses in this country,
not carts, by reason of the narrownesse of the waies, as I
have before said. And the same horses when they returne
home, bring backe that noble wine that I have above
mentioned of the valley Telina otherwise called Valtulina.
I was in their Councell house, in the principail roome Tie Cound
whcreof they hang thc picture of the present Duke of ^'""'-
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Saxony Christian the second. The reason why they so
much grace him, is, because he was a great benefactor to
the City when he passed that way into Italy. In this
Councell house the Magistrates of the State which are sent
from the townes of Rhetia, one from every Towne, doe
keepe their Sessions thrise every yeare about criminall and
civill matters. They have two Councels, the greater and
the lesser. The greater consisteth of threescore and foiu"-
teene Magistrates, which deliberate and consult about
pubhque matters touching the whole state. The lesser
consisteth of fourteen Magistrates which determine
matters concerniiig the city Curia only. Againe, the
whole State of Rhetia is devided into three leagues,
which are nothing else than Fraternities or Com-
munities that elect and send Magistrates for the execution
The Rhaign of the affaires of the common-weale. These leagues
Leagiui. were contracted amongst themselves at several times
for the better defence of the country against thc
forraine invasion of strangers, who before that con-
federation did often oppresse them with many villanies
and enormous injuries. The first, wherein the Bishop
of Curia, the Deane and Chapter, and the City are united
together, was begunne and contirmed in the yeare 1419.
The second in the yeare 1424 in a towne called Trontz,
and concluded by the Abbot of Disertinum, the Earle of
[p. 370.] Masauc, and the Baron of Rezuns. At what time the
Abbot added this condition, that the same league should
not be made to the prejudice either of the Roman Empire
whose Prelate he was, or of the Lordes of Milan whose
Earle he was. The third and the last was concluded in
the yeare 1470, amongst ten jurisdictions of those that
live in a part of Rhetia called Prettigoia. And at last
all these three leagues linked themselves together in one
forme of union and confederacy for the better strengthning
of their common-weale against the violent incursions or
forraine forces. Moreover they are at this day united with
the Switzers. He that will be ferther instructed in the
popular governement of the GrJsons, let him reade a booke
OBSERVATIONS OF CHUR
written by that learned Josias Simlerus of Zurich in
Switzerland, who (as a learned man told me in Cxuia) hath
written a peculiar Treatise of the common-weale of the
Grisons.
In this City there is a mint where they stampe money ^ mint in
of gold, silver, and tin that serveth for the whole territory. ^^-
This mint I saw together with their armoury house, but
I had not the opportunity to enter into either of them.
Here was Magnentius (whom I have before mentioned
in my notes of Lyons) prodaimed Emperour by his
Souldiers against Constance the second sonne of Constan-
tine the Great, at what time the same Magnentius was
generall Captayne of the Roman legions in Rhetia, and
afterward he slew the same Emperour Constance as he
slept in his bed in a towne called Helena not farre from
the Pyrenean mountaines.
In the principall market place which is opposite to St. Theprincipal
Martins Church before mentioned, there is a goodly feire *w^^/^^-
conduit with a faire statue of an armed man standing
upon the toppe thereof, a thing very excellently handled.
The Citizens bestowed great charg^es that year 1608 that
I was in the City in repayring this conduit, so that they [p. 371.]
have greatly beautified it.
I r^id these verses following written upon a rich citizens
house of this City, even upon the outside of the wall over
thc dore. _
Deus.
Stant dextra kevaque undae, procede Viator
transi, rumpe moras, anteriora vide.
Viator.
Duc me, nec sine me, per me Deus optime, duci,
nam duce me pereo, te duce salvus ero.
Thus much of Curia.
IDeparted from Curia about sixe of the docke in the
moming the tbure and twentieth of August being
Wednesday, and came to Walastat a towne of tne coimtry
of Helvetia, now called Switzerland, foure Helvetian HeheHa.
91
CORYATS CRUDITIES
miles, that is, twettty of our English, beyond it, about
seven of the clocke in the evening.
The King of France hath built a most magnificent Palacc
in Rhetia, withtn a mile and halfe of the citie of Curia
ncare to the river of Rhene, where a French Ambassador
made his residence when I was in the country, being sent
to the state of the Grisons from the King of Prance.
The end of my Observations of the Grisons Country.
[p- 37*0 The beginning of my observations of Helvetia,
otherwise called Switzerland.
He name of the first towne of Switzerland
that I entred is Ragatz, ten English miles
beyond the citie of Curia. There Rhetia,
and Helvetia doe confine. I travelled in
Rhetia seventy three English miles be-
twixt Morbiniiun at the entrance of the
^ country, & this towne of Ragatz at the
Tii boMMji entrance of Switzerland. This countrey of Switzerland is
»/^iztr~ gjtuate betwixt the Mountaine Jura, the lake Lemanus
(which ts otherwise called the Lake Losanna) Italy, and
the river Rhene : and it is bounded on the East with the
Earledome of Tyroll, on the West with Savoy and Biu--
gundy, on the South with the Coctian Alpes now called
mount Senys (as I have before mentioned in my notes of
Savoy) Lombardy, the Dukedome of Milan, and the
Territory of Piemont on the North with the river Rhene.
Againe, the bounds of Switzerland extend themselves
about two hundred and forty miles in length, according
to the computation of Cssar, which appeareth to be tnie
at this day ; but in bredth it containeth not ahove eighty
miles, thougb Cxsar inlargeth the breadtb of it to a
greater distance.
Within a quarter of a mile after I entred into Switzer-
land I passed through a very goodly meadow, whicb I
thinke contained at the least five hundred acres. That
day thcy mowed some part of the same meadow, and
OBSERVATTONS OF SWITZERLAND
carryed away hay ready made out of some other part
thereof, I wondred to see their hay harvest so late, being
about two moneths later then with us in England. For
that was Barthelmew day iti Switzerland. But I attribute
that harvest to the fatnesse and fertihty of the ground.
For I beleeve they have two hay harvests, one about that
time that ours is in Engknd, and this I take to be their
second hay harvest. The first Rhenish wine that I dranke
was at Walastat, from which place downward, till I entred
into Holland, I had continually Rhenish wine in all the
Helvetical and German townes and cities. But not that
only: for in some places of Switzerland I had good redde
wine also : but after I was out of Switzerland I tasted no
other wine but onely Rhenish.
I departed from Walastat about three of the clocke the
next morning being Thursday and the five and twentieth
of August, and passed in a Barke upon the goodly
Helvetian lake twenty English miles that day, and about
seven of the clocke in the evening arrived at a solitary
house by the water side, where I lay that night. The diet
of Switzerland is passing good in most places; for they
bring great variety of dishes to the table, both of rost and
sodde meates : and the charge is something reasonable;
for my Spanish shilling did most commonly discharge my
shot when I spent most.
This Helvetian lake that runneth through a good part
of Switzerland belwixt the Alpes, is in many places of a
great breadth, at the least two English miles broad, Our
barke passed one wooden bridge made over this lake, of
an extraordinary tength, the longest that ever I saw, even
as long as the lake is broad, viz. two miles, so that it
joyned together both the bankes of the lake.
I departed from that solitary house about tenne of the
clocke that night in the same barke, and came to Zurich
fifteene English miles beyond it, about foure of the clockc
the next morning being Friday, where I solaced my selfe
all that day, and the better part of the next day with the
learned Protestants of the citie I passed thirty five
[P- 373-11
i
SUd
it V
CORYAT-S CRUDITTES
English miles upon the Helvetian lake betwixt Walastat
and Zurich.
[p. 374.] My observations of Zurich, in Latine Tigurum,
the Metropolitan Citie of Switzerlaiid.
''Uch is the antiquity of this citie, that it is thought
O it was built in the time of Abraham (which was about
m^ two thousand yeares before the incarnation of Christ, and
^H thirteene hundjed yeares before the foundation of Rome)
^H as Rodolphus Hospinianus that glittering lampe of learn-
^H ing, a most etoquent and famous Preacher of this citie
^H tolde me ; together with two more, Solodurum an other
^H faire city of Switzerland, & Trevirs in the Netherlands,
^H which by reason that they were built about one time are
^l called the three sister cities of Germany. In the time of
1 . Julius Csesar this citie was but an obscure village : so that
he called it Pagus Tigurinus, but in continuance of time
A jiUaiatit it grew to be a beautifuU citie. It is most delicately
"*■ seated in a very fertile soile that yeeldeth great plenty of
corne and wine. Also it is most pleasantly moystened
with water, partly with the noble Helvetian or Tigurine
lake that washeth one side thereof, being of a goodly
breadth, almost two English miles broad; partly with the
river Sylla which runneth by the west side of the city,
into which the ashes of Witches, Sorcerers, and Heretiques
are cast, after their bodies are burnt, as I will hereaftcr
ferther declare in my notes of this citie ; and partly with the
pleasant lake Limacus mentioned by Cssar. This is
derived out of the Tigurine lake, and runneth through the
middest of the citie, so that it maketh two severall cities
the greater and the lesser : having three feire bridges over
the same, but built with timber, where the citizens doe
Tie Lake of Msud^Ay walke, This lake imparteth two speciall com-
Zurich. modities to the citie, the one that it yeeldeth abundance
of fish, and those passing good ; the other that it carrieth
[p. 37;.] many pretty little Barkes, and such like vessels of a meane
burden that serve for the conveying of corne, and many
other necessaries forth and backe for the use of the citizens.
OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH
In this lake they have two great wooden wheeles neare to
the bridges, each by a severall bridee, made in the forme
of water-mils, which are in continuaU motion, so cunningly
and artificially composed, that they doe incessantly spout
out water through a great multitude of pipes. Truely
it is a very delectable sight to beholde. Likewisc
I observed that upon both the sides of the lake which
extendeth it seife very near fifteene English miles in length,
there groweth great abundance of delectable vineyardes.
This city is walled round about with very goodly wals,
built with exceeding strong stone of great antiquity, and
beautified with faire battlements. AIso there are sixe very
magnificent and stately gates in the wals, built wholy with
square stone, and made in the forme of strong bulwarkes,
which doe greatly beautifie the citie ; and they are gar-
nished with the armes of the citie displayed thereon, wnich
are two Lyons and a coate of white and blew. In thesc
wals are many strong and auncient Towers, which served
heretofore for fortifications against the hostile fbrce,
whereof sixe are in that part ot the wall which is in the
west side of the citie, being built with a pretty kinde of
stratagematical invention. For the first of these sixe is so
artificially contrived, that some part of it runneth a litle
into the wall, so that almost the whole Tower butteth out
from the maine wall into the ditch adioyning to it, saving
that Httle which is inserted into the wall. The next Tower
entreth farther into the wall, and so every other by degrecs
one after another farther and farther till the last, which is
the sixth, is inserted whoUy into the wall, that no part of
it at all butteth out towards the ditch. A certaine learned
young man of the citie called Marcus Buelerus, unto
whom I was exceedingly beholding for the sight of most
of ihe principal) things of Zurich (being appointed to
keepe me company by the meanes of that singular learned
man Rodolphus Hospinianus) tolde me, that the reason
why these Towers were built after such a strange and
extraordinary forme, was this, because if the towne should
happen to be assaulted or besieged by the enemy, the
GmHj tealb.
A kenti
gfadt.
[P- 376.]
The hkt ef
(rop.
Zurich lignl-
fielhticaciliei.
[P- 377-]
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
presidiarie souldiers which for the defence of the citie
should watch in those Towers, might the more commodi-
ously see one another, and so give watch-word to each
other as occasion required. Hard by the wall where these
foresaid Towers are built, there runneth a little muddy
lake, which by the auncients was called the lake of frogs,
which name it continually retaineth even to this day, by
reason of the great abundance of frogs therein. There is
a marveilous pleasant walke for the citizens to walke in
hard by that lake. AIso there are five more of those
Towers made in other parts of the wall, so that in the
whole wall there are eleven Towers, and five Gatehouses
or Bulwarkes before mentioned, which doe yeeld a speciall
grace to the whole Citie. About the East-side of the
Citie, unto the which from the lower parts you have a
pretie easie ascent, there is another exceeding pleasant
and delectable greene walke hard by the Trench (for the
whole wall of the Citie is invironed round about with a
Trench) of a quarter of an English mile long, That
part of the Trench is a very pleasant greene, where the
Patricians and Gentlemen of the Citie doe keepe Deere,
having built there sundry Iittle pretie houses whcrein
they use to feede them with hay in the winter time.
The Citie hath his name of Zurich from two King-
domes; for the Dutch word Zurich signifieth two
Kingdomes : the reason thereof is this, because in times
past one part of it, even that which is on the ferther banke
of the River Limacus, belonged to a certalne KJngdome
called Turgovia, which retaineth that name to this day,
part whereof belongeth to the state of Zurich, the other
part which is on the hither banke of the river belonged to
a Kingdome or Province called Ergovia, which yet keepeth
his name, and now belongeth to the Tigurines. Also the
Latine name was heretofore Turegum, before it was called
Tigurum, and it was so called, Quasi duorum regum
civitas. That name of Turegum was very auncient, for
so it was called in the time of Julius CiEsar as well as
Tigurinus pagus. For testimonie whereof this verse was
96
OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH
heretofore found in one of the gardens of the Citie, as
my fcresaid friend Marcus Buelerus told me, being written
there by the appointment of Julius Cassar himself, and
continued there a long time after, even this,
Nobile Turegum, multarum copia rerum.
There are fbure Churches in the Citie, whereof the feyrest ^*'"^ ^f '
was built by Clodoveus King of France, and dedicated to 5 j;™/^
Saint Felix, and Saint Regula, by whose names it is called
at this day : These Saints, Felix and Kegula, are highly
estccmed amongst the Tigurines, but not in that super-
stitious manner as Saints are amongst the Papists : the
reason why the Tigurines doe honour them, is, because
they were the first that preached the Gospel in the Citie,
as my foresaid friend Buelerus told me, and for their bold
confession of the Christian Religion were martyred in the
Citie in one of the first persecutions of the Primitive
Church : their manner of death was beheading. For the
place where they were beheaded was shewed me neere to
one of their Bridges on the farther side of the Limacus,
viz. a very auncient faire building, which is called in
Latine aquatile templum, because it is built altogether
in thc Limacus : this place was heretofore in time of
Paganisme a temple of idolatrie, but now it is altogether
alieoated from holy and Religious uses, though it bec
continually called by the name of a Temple, and serveth
as a publicke house for secular affaires. Without thc
edi6ce, almost round about halfe the compasse, there is a
pretie walke paved with stone, the edge whereof is gar-
nished with len huge stonie Pillars. In this place three [p. 378.]
Martjrrs suffered Martyrdome together : Namely the fore- Tirte
said Felix and Regula who was his wife. The third was """''yi.
a Priest called Exuperantius. Two of these three, viz,
Felix & Regula, craved before their execution, that they
might be buried in a certaine place of the Citie that they
themselves appointed ; which I saw in this foresaid
Church, where there is a plaine Stone laid over their
bodies. The like Miracle is reported of them as is written
i
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
^^^ of St. Denis in France, as I have before mentioned, that
^^L they carried their heads in their hands after they were
^^1 strooken off from their bodies, to the place where they
^^H desired to be buried. How true or false this is, I will not
^^B dispute the matter, because I never read the Historie in
^^B any authenticke writer, onely I heard it of the learned
^f^ men of the Cltie. In the Cloyster of thts foresaid Church
of Saint Felix and Regula, I saw to my great comfort the
Sepakkrei af Sepulchers of sundry femous and learned men, who were
fiti^us mtn. singular ornaments and most glorious bright-shining
Lampes of Christs Chiirch, since the reformation ot
Rehgion began in Switzerland, and such as by their hoH-
nesse of hfe, sinceritie of doctrine, and the manifold
Monuments of their most learned workes, have infinitely
benefited the Church of God, and purchased themselves
eternitie of name till the worlds end. These are the men
whose bodies He enterred in this Cloyster, Peter Martyr
the Vermilian. Henricus Bullingerus, Rodolfus Gualterus,
Theodorus Bibliander, Conradus Gesnerus, Ludovicus
Lavaterus, Josias Simlerus, Joannes Gulielmus Stuckius,
&c. Truely it grieved me to see so many rare men so
meanely buried. For none of them had any more than
a fiat stone laide upon them without Epitaph, or any maner
of inscription to preserve them from oblivion ; in so much
that a stranger cannot know one Sepulchre from another,
except one of the Citie shew him the particulars. Surely
[p- 379'] the memorie of these worthy men would quickly be
extinguished among the Tigurines, if they had not in
their life time immortalized the same by their learned
writings. For the Tigurines honour none of their citizens
that are buried in the citie, of what fecultie, dignitie, or
merit soever they are, either with faire monuments, or
beautified by Carolus Magnus, who upon the yeare 8io
bestowed great charges upon the same. For a monument
of whose imperiall munificence the Tigurines have erected
3 goodly stonie statue to the honour of his name in the
South side of one of the towers of the Church, whJch is
therehence called the tower of Carolus Magnus. This
OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH
statue is made according to the full proportion of a mans
bodie with a golden Diademe upon his head, a Scepter in
the right hand, and a golden sword in the left.
The second Church is dedicated to Saint Peter, whereof
part is reported to bc of that antiquitie, that it was built
in thc lime of Abraham, and at the first building thereof
was consecrated to the worship of the Paynime gods: tor
ihc lower part of it toward the fbundation argueth the
ancientnesse ihereof, being built in the outside with
pointed diamond work like unto certain buildings that I
observed in Italie, as I have before mentioned. The
dtizens were bestowing great charges in repairing the
steeple of the Church when I was in Zurich. The third
is the Abbesse Church which Ludovicus King of Germanic,
and the nephew of Carolus Magnus founded in the yeare
853. neere unto which he built a feire Nunnerie, whereinto
none were admitted but onely noble women. Both the
Church and the Nunnery were built indeed by the appoint-
ment of the foresaid King Ludovicus, but Rupcrtus Duke
of Alemanny disbursed the greatest charge thercof, and
Ludovicus contributed something to the same, The first
Abbesse was the Lady Hildcgardis King Ludovicus
daughter, This Nunnery is now converted to a Schoole
which hath beene a most truitful] seminarie of many
excellent learned men, Ex quo ludo tanquam ex equo
Trojano (to use "Ciceroes words that he spake of Isocrates
schoole in Athens) multi eniditissimi viri prodierunt.
For this schoole hath beene the nurse of all the ^mous
Tigurine divines that have florished in this citie, and so
ennobled the same by their learned writings since the
rcformation of religion bcgan. Herein are ever brought
up 16 striplings of the most exquisite and pregnant wits
that can be selected out of the whole citie, and when
they have accomplished the foure and twentieth yeare of
their age, they are transplanted thcrehence, and enter into
the Ecclcsiasticall fiinction. In all that space they are
ought up in thc studie of humanity and divinitie at the
* 1 Lib. dc Orat.
Cirnrck»/ I
S. Peter.
[p- 380.]
Sannery
i
Gaipar
afamaui
iraveliei:
[p. 3«,.]
Wiafom Mftd
by ike
Helvelians
againsi ike
Rmans,
CORYATS CRUDITIES
piiblike charge of the citie. The fourth and last Church
is that which heretofore belonged to the Predicatores or
Dominican Friers.
I was in their armory unto the which I had accesse by
the meanes of a worthy learned man of the citie, a great
professor of eloquence, a singular linguist. For he spake
seven languages, being very skilfull in the Hebrew and
Greeke tongues, and a famous traveller, For besides Italy,
Germany, and France, which he had well travelled over, he
had been also in England, Scotland, and Ireland, a man of
so rare and excellent gifts, that he hath attained to that
which the Grecians Ciul \-fKVKKo-KmZfiav, that is, an exact
knowledge in the seven liberal sciences. His name is
Gaspar Waserus. When I came afterward to Frankford
at the time of the Mart, I saw a most singular Latine
Oration made by him upon the life and death of that
femous Pastor of Zurlch, Joannes Gulielmus Stuckius,
who died in this citie not long before my being there.
This foresaid Waserus sent a scholer with me to the
Tigurine Prefect, a noble man of the citie, whose name
was Hortmannus Eselerus, who used me very graciously,
discoursed with me in Latin, sent a Mandato under his
hand to the keeper of the armory to shew me the same.
Truly I have seene farre greater armories then this, as that
of Milan, but especially those of the Arsenall of Venice.
Also our owne in the Tower of London yeeldeth more
store of munition then this : but never in my life did I
see so well a furnished place for the quantity. Amongst
the rest of those things that this Armory doth present, it
yeeldeth more notable antiquities then ever I saw in any
armorie before. For heere I saw those arrows which the
ancient Helvetians used in the time of Julius Csesar, when
they fought with the Romanes. They are very short, but
exceeding big, being above two inches in compasse, and
headed with great three-forked heads. Of these arrowes
I saw a greai quantity : Likewise the banners & ancients
that the Helvetians displaied in the field against the
Romans, which are almost eaten out with antiquity : And
OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH
many of the Romans enslgnes with their armes in fhem,
even the eagle, which the Helvetians wonne from them in
fight. These banners arc something lesse then those that
are used in this age. Also I observed many shields which
they used in their skirmishes with the Romanes, being
made of sinews, one whereof I saw exceedingly mangled,
and hackied with stroakes of swords, &c. All these things
are shewed in one of the higher roomes of the Armory,
For it consisteth of many faire roomes most curiously kept.
Also there is shewed another most worthy monument in
the same roome, even the sword of William Tell an
Helvetian of the towne of Swice, who about some three
hundred years since was the first author of the Helveticall
confederation which hath been ever since retained in iheir
jjopular government, by reason of a certaine notable
cxploit that he atchieved. Therefore I will tell a most //"'i"? "f
mcmorable history of Will Tell before I proceede any ^''^""' ^
fiuther, being very pertinent to this purpose, which was
this, as I both heard it tn the Citie, and afterward read it in
thc third booke of Munsters Cosmography. When as [p- 382.]
the Germane Emperours being the Lords of the principall
Cities of Helvetia constituted forraine Prefects and rulers
about three hundred yeares since as their deputies over
three townes, especially above the rest, nameiy Sylvania,
otherwise called tlnderwald, Urania, commonly called Uri,
and Swice, it hapned that the Prefect of the towne of
Swice behaved himselfe very insolently, abusing his
authority by immoderate tyrannizing over the people,
For amongst other enormous outrages that he committed,
this was one. He commanded one of his servants to
compell atl travellers that passed such a way, to doe TraveUen
reverence to his hat that was hanged upon a staffe in the '""'"■^ ' 1 "
high way. The people unwilling to offend the Magis- j,^i_
rrate, did their obeysance unto the hat. But one amongst
the rest, even this foresaid William Tell, being a man of
a stout courage, refused to doe as the rest did. Where-
upon he was brought before the Magistrate, who being
grievously incensea against him for his contumacie,
I
CORYATS CRUDITIES
injoyned him this pennance : that he should shoote an
arrow out of a crosse-bow at an apple set upon his sonnes
hcad that was a little child, whom he caused to be tied to
a tree for the same purpose, so that if he had fayled to
strike the apple, he must needs have shot through his
sonne, This he commanded him because this Tell was
esteemed a cunning archer : At the first he refiised to doe
it : But at last hecause he saw there was an inevitable
necessity imposed upon him, he performed the matter
greatly against his will, and that with most happy successe.
For God himselfe directing the arrow, he shot him so
Tht «ppU cunningly, that he strooke ofF the apple from the childs
cunaingly >hot head without any hurt at all to the child. And whereas
°y ' • he had another arrow left besides that which he shot at his
sonne, the Prefect asked him what he meant to do with
that arrow : he made him this bould and resolute answere.
[p. 383,] If I had slaine my child with the first, I would have shot
thee through with the second. The magistrate hearing
that, commanded him to be apprehended, and carried away
in a barke, And when he was come betwixt the towne
of Urania, and a certaine village called Brun, having by
good fortune escaped out of the boate, he ranne away with
all possible expedition over the difficult places of the
mountaines, where there was no common way, and so
came to a place neere to the which he knew the tyrant
would passe, where he lay in ambush in a secret corner of
the wood till he came that way, and then shot him through
with his other arrow. It hapned that this Tell did weare
the foresaid sword about him when he atchieved these
worthy actes, in regard whereof the Switzers have ever
since that time hanged up the same in their Armory for a
most remarkable monument, though me thinks it had
beene much better to have reserved the arrow with which
he shot through the tyrant, then the sword that he wore
TtlPi expteii then. This noble exploit was the first originall of the
the eriffnal 0/ Helveticall confederation. For shortly after these matters
' """" were acted, those three foresaid townes of Underwald, Uri,
and Swice united themselves together in a league by a
tie Helvetic
OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH
solemne forme of oath about the year 1316. to the end to
shake off the yoake of those forraine tyrants. And after-
ward the other Cities of the Province imitated them, so
that in the end all the Cities of Helvetia conibined them-
selves together in a league of unity, which though it hath
beene otten assayed since that time to be dlssolved and
violated by the forraine forces of mighty men, as by some
of the German Emperours, by Leopold, and Fredericke,
brothers and Dukes of Austria, by the Earles of Kyburg,
&c, yet it hath continued firme and inviolable to this day.
As for the name of Switzers it grew upon this foresaid
occasion, even because the above mentioned William Tell
the first author of this league was borne in the towne of
Swice. For before that time all the inhabitants of the
country were called Helvetians. Having now reported [p. 384.]
this notable history, which I could not conveniently omit,
I will return againe to the armory. I saw also in the ^" Jnnent
foresaid higher roome, an Ancient that the Switzers got ^ /'"d 1
in the field from that famous Charles Duke of Burgundy. o/Buraindt.
For there were most bitter warres waged betwixt the
Helvetians and this Duke Charles for the space of three
yeares, in which space they fought three very hot battels
in as many severall places, the Helvetians ever carrying
away the glory of the field from him, and in the last
skirmish about the City of Nancey in Lorraine they slew
him (after he had lived three and fortie yeares, one moneth,
and five and twentie daies,) with three grievous wounds,
upon the Epiphany which we commonly call twelfe day,
Ajino 1477. But to returne once more to this higher
roome of the armory ; besides these foresaid antiquities,
hecre I observed a marvailous multitude of costlets, and
head peeces, and a great deale of complete armour of
proofe, for the whole body, which is so finely disposed in
order, and so elegantly kept, that it yeeldeth a wondrous
feire shew.
At the upper end of this roome I saw two artificiall men Tu>e artijicial
standing a pretie distance from each other, even at the "leniManiieiir.
coracrs of the roome, armed with their complete armour
103
CORYATS CRUDITIES
[p. 385.]
AU swu of
ordiumce.
Armsfir
iOyCXX> men.
of proofe, and crested helmets upon their heads, which a
stranger at the first entrance of the roome would conjectiire
to be living, and very naturall men standing in their
armour; this also giveth no small grace to the roome.
In another roome I saw most terrible swords made accord-
ing to the imitation of those that the ancient Helvetians
used in their warres against Julius Cssar) being two-edged,
and of a great length, above two yards long, having many
steelen pranges, or sharpe hookes at the sides. In another
roome I saw onely speares and laxmces, whereof there was
a goodly company. Againe in another, axes and mattocks
for pioners to use about digging of trenches. In the lowest
roome of all, which is the fourth, I noted an exceeding
multitude of pieces of ordinance of all sorts, as culyerins,
demiculverins, demicannons, sacers, basiliskes, &c. whereof
some were taken as trophies fi-om the foresaid Duke of
Burgundy, being indeed pieces of admirable beauty and
value, adorned with his armes, and many curious borders
and works contrived in the same. Amongst the rest I
saw one passing great murdering piece, both the ends
thereof were so exceeding wide, that a very corpulent man
might easily enter the same. This also was wonne in the
field firom the same Duke. Besides, I saw seven huge
and very sumptuous brasen pieces equalling at the least, if
not exceeding the length of the longest piece I saw in the
Citadell of Milan, above named. All these things I saw
kept very daintily, and in passing good order. Although
this armoury be well able to arme ten thousand men, yet
if there should happen any occasion of warres, they neede
not use any of it : because every private man of the citie,
together with the rest in the other townes, villages, and
hamlets of the country are privately very well furnished in
their owne houses : onely if they hire any strangers then
they use it, but not else. The Tigurines are able to
furnish fortie thousand armed men in their whole terri-
tory; but the Citie it selfe armeth two thousand onely
and no more.
Thus much of the Armoury.
X04
OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH
^ T Saw their campus Martius, where both in ancient times The CamfM:
. thcy were wont to muster their souldiers, and so do at "^'"'"'"-
this day. It is a very goodly greene plaine, where I
observed five exceeding massy piUars of stone, which serve
onJy tor this purpose, that souldiers may in the time of
muster discharge their peeces at them for the better triall
and proofe of them. I noted every one oi the pillars to
be much battered with the force of their bullets.
There are two prisons in the City, whereof one standeth [p- jS6.]
■ 1 the water, being buih in the manner of a Tower, unto Tme fmimt.
1
I
the which none can come but by water: herein capitall ^H
offenders and debtors are kept. The other is one of those ^l
sixe Towers in the westerne wall of the City already
mentioned, unto which they are ccmmitted that have done
some small and veniall crime.
There is one very delectable greene in an eminent and ^ dtkttabU
high part of the City, where there grow many goodly ^'"''
trees that doe make a pleasanf grove. Here stand many
stony tables of a convenient bignesse with benches about
them for their archers to sit at their refection, after they
have exercised themselves with shooting, which is an exer-
cise much used amongst them. Neare unto this place
dwelt one of their Consuls when I was in Zurich. For
they have two Consuls in the City, which doe not change
every yeare as the Romans did, but when they are cnce
elected into the Consulat, they keepe that consular dignity
while they live, except upon some just desert they are
degraded,
Their L,ictcres or Serjeants doe weare party-coloured
cloakes, which are of a blew and white colour according to
the armes cf the City.
Their houses both publique and private are very feire.
Their private houses of a goodly heigth, many of them
foure stories high. Their matter of building is partly
fi-ee stone, and partly timbcr. For they have no bricke
at aU.
The habits of the Citizens doe in scme things differ -''">' ifHit
from the attyre of any nation that ever [ saw before. For <"*'^'"'
CORYATS CRUDITIES
all the men doe weare round breeches with codpeeces.
So that you shall not finde one man in all Zurich from a
boy of ten yeares old to an old man of the age of a himdred
yeares, but he weareth a codpeece. Also all their men doe
weare flat caps and rufFe bandes. For I could not see
one man or boy in the whole City weare a falling band.
K 387.] Many of their women, especially maides doe use a very
strange and phantasticall lashion with their haire that I
never saw before, but the like I observed afterward in
many other places of Switzerland, especially in Basil. For
they plait it in two very long locks that hang downe over
their shoulders halfe a yard long. And many of them doe
twist it together with prety silke ribbands or fiUets of
sundry colours.
Yange hids. The beds of the Innes of this City and of ail the other
Helvetian and German Cities are very strange, such as I
never saw before. The like being in the private houses
of every particular Citizen as I heard. For every man
hath a light downe or very soft feather bedde laid upon
him whic^ keepeth him very warme, and is nothing offen-
sive for the burden. For it is exceeding light, and serveth
for the coverled of the bedde. In the refectory of that
Inne where I lay which was at the signe of the two Storkes,
there is a stove, such a one as I have before mentioned in
my Observations of Padua, which is so common a thing
in all the houses of Switzerland and Germany (as I have
before said) that no house is without it. I foimd them
first in Rhetia, even in the City of Curia.
^atsoil The soile round about this City is so exceeding fat,
that it yeeldeth wonderfull plenty of corne, which is every
weeke sold here in so great abundance that it doth not
only sufiBize for the maintenance of the City, but also
is commxmicated to their neighbouring Townes, being
conveighed unto them partly in fiarkes upon the Helvetian
lake, and partly with carts and upon horses backs. Also
the City is served with such passing store of provision of
all sorts whatsoever, that a man may live as cheape here as
in any City of Switzerland or Germanie. For I observed
106
OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH
I
: my Inne, which was at the signe of the two Storkes,
more variety of good dishes then I did in any Inne in my
whole journey out of England, our ordinary being sixe
battes, that is, fifteene pence EngHsh. Every bat counter-
vailing two pence halfe peny of our English money.
About an English mile directly beyond the Citie West- [p. 388.]
ward, I saw a place where maleractors are punished. ^^'f 'f
Which is a certaine greene place, made in the forme of a ^""" """'
pit, neere unto the which there standeth a little Chappell,
wherein some Clergie man doeth minister ghostly counsell
unto the otFendour before he goeth to execution. In that
Chappell I sawe wheeles. If they should happen to
tremble so much that they cannot stand upright {as some-
times offendours doe) they are punished in the Chappell.
As about some fourteene yeeres before I was at Zurich,
three Noble Tigurines were beheaded in that Chappell
because they were so incHned to trembling that they could
not stand upright. The punishments that are inflicted
upon offendours are divers, in number five, whereof the Fiv.
firsf is beheading, which punishment they onely do sustaine pumsimnti.
ihat are incestuous men or high-way robbers. The second
is the Gallowes, upon the which those are executed that
commit Burghlarie or burne houses. The third is the
water, which incestuous women doe suffer, being drowned
therein. The fourth is the fire wherewith Witches, Sor- W'ift^j bumt
cerers, and Heretickes are punished ; and after their bodies '""''/''•
are burnt, their ashes are cast into the River Sylla afore-
said. The fifth and last punishment is wheeling, which
is onely for murderers. This Citie hath suffered great
alteration and change of Governement. Heretofore it
was governed many yeares by the Dukes of Almannie or
Suevia till about tiie yeare 1083. it was againe freed from
them. After that, about the yeare 1136. it was recovered
againe by Fredericke Duke of Suevia, who was afterward
made Emperour of Rome, and excluded Conrad Duke of
Zaringia out of the possession of Zurich. About the
ycare 1336. on the seventh day of June, there rose a j itjiiian ia
sedition in thc Citie, so that the whole Senate was removed ike diy.
CORYATS CRUDITIES
or rather expulsed out of Zurich, and another substituted
[p- 389 ] in their place, which caused great tumults and confusion in
the Citie. For there were many Noblemen and Gentle-
n men of the Senate, which being united together by a
^H mutual affinitie, governed the whole state according to
^B their pleasure, and executed many unjust and wrongfuU
^' judgenients to the great prejudice and oppression ofthe
Citizens. At what time the greatest part of the old
Senators retired themselves to a place called Rapperswyl
to John Earle of Habspurg. For the Tigurines slew one
of the Earles of Habspurg, for whose death John aforesaid
that succeeded his father in the Earldome, determined to
be revenged upon the Citizens. Whereupon certaine
Souldiers that promised the Earle to betray Zurich to him,
approched privily by night to the Citie. But the Tigur-
ines being forewarned or the conspiracie, very providently
prevented the matter, and slew many of the souldiers,
tooke the Earle prisoner, and tortured the traytors with the
torment of the wheelc, in the yeare 1350. About some
ZMricA two yeares after that, Albert Duke of Austria besieged
^J'^"^nh '^^^'^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ fbrces he could make of his
DfAusiria ' """"^' ^^^ *^^ auxiliaries of the Earle of Wirtemberg, and
the Bishops of Strasbourg and Basil. The Cities of Berne
and Friburg aided him also. But the Tigurines being
confederated with the Jnhabitants of the Townes of Swice,
Underwald, Uri, and Lucerne defended themselves very
valiantly against theJr enemies, tilJ at last there was a peace
concluded on both sides, with condition that the Tigurines
should set John of Hapspurg at libertie. Many other
bitter brunts also this Citie hath often endured both before
the time of the confederation and since, having beene
tossed to and fro from one Lord to another, as if shee had
beene Dame Fortunes tennis ball. But at this day by the
gracious indulgence of the heavenly powers, it enjoyeth
great peace and a very halcedonian time with the rest of
the Helveticall Cities under that happie league of union,
[p. 390.] being subject neither to Klng nor Kaysar. And if warres
should happen, it hath so fortiBed it selfe in time of peace
OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH
rith store of munition and provision fbr warfare, that it is
well able to defend it selfe against any foiraine forces.
Hcre might I make mention of the forme of their
Aristocraticail state, their severall and distinct Magistrates,
the manner of the election of them, and such other memor-
abie particulars touching the administration of their
commonweale. But I must needes confesse I did not -
use such curious inquisition for these matters as I might
have done : contenting my selfe rather with these foresaid
matters (which I learned partly by the observation of mine
own eics, partly by the instructions of my learned friend
afbresaid Marcus Buelerus; and partly by reading of
Munsters Cosmoeraphy, unto whom I acknowledge my
selfe beholding ror some of these above mentioned
histories) then with the exact knowledge of their govern-
ment, which I could not possibly attaine unto by reason
that I made my abode there, but a day and halfe. Where-
fore I intreat thee (gentle Reader) to pardon me though
I ca.nnoi informe thee of their aristocratie according to thy
expectation, promising thee that I will as well as I am able
supply that in my next journey into this country (for I
determine by Gods heavenly assistance to see hereafter all
the thirteene principall townes of Switzerland) which I
have now omitted in the observation of their government.
I received much kindnesse in this Citie of one Master ^ ^'"^
Thomannus the Prefect of the corne market, whom I could ^'^fi"-
not but mention in this discourse gratitudinis causa. A
sonne of his called Gaspar Thomannus a man of good
gifts, and a lover of learning hath beene many yeares com-
morant in our Universitie of Oxford.
Amongst other learned men that I conversed with in ///nrj
this Citie, Henry Bullineer was one of the chiefest, BulRnffr.
a. man of very singular learning, the nephew of that
famous preacher and writer of godly memory Henry
Bullinger the successor of Zuinglius in the Ecclesiasticall [p. 39'-]
function of Zurich. This man is a very vigilant preacher
of this Citie, and a painefull labourer in the Lords Vine-
yard, He shewed himselfe very dcbonaire and courteous
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
unto me. For he led me mto hJs studie, which is exceed-
ingly well Rirnished with divinitie bookes, and much
augmentcd with many of his grandfethers. Aniongst the
BuUingfi^i resr, he shewed me a manuscript of his grandfethers never
manmmpti. yet printed, which was an historie of the Popes lives ; and
a manuscript Epistle of Theodorus Beza unto him, wherein
he delivered his opinion of the said worke. Also he
shewed me one most execrable booke written by an Itatian,
one Joannes Casa Bishop of Beneventum in Italy, in praise
of that unnaturall sinne of Sodomy. This booke is written
in the Itahan tongue, and printed in Venice. It came first
to the hands of this mans grandfether aforesaid, who kept
it as a monument of the abhominable impurity of a papisti-
cal Bishop, to which end this man also that received it from
his grandfiither, keepeth it to this day.
A i/range \ observed a strange Latin phrase amongst the learned
a n !> ras(, ^^^ ^^ ^^j^ Citie, which is Hkewise used in most Cities
and Universities of Germany (as I have heard) at the least
in all those where I have benc. Whensoever any of them
discourseth in Latine with a stranger, he will not speake
to him in the second person, as to say, Ut vales Domine ?
but alwaies in the third person after a stranger maner then
ever I observed before. As, Ut valet Dominus? cujas
est Dominus,'' quamdiu commoratus fuit Dominus in
Italiai' in quam regionem jam tendit Dominus? placet ne
nomino? By this word Dominus meaning your selfe to
whom he speaketh, though at the first time I heard that
phrase, I conceived that they meant a third person. After
I had duly considered this pretie Germanisme, and com-
pared it with a phrase that is fi-equent in the holy
[p. 39^.] Scriptures, I perceived that they borrowed this forme of
speech from the very Scriptures themselves. Which made
me much the more applaude the same : As for example,
when Jacob brought a great drove of Ewes and Kine to
present to his brother Esau for a giff, he spake thus unto
him : I have sent it that I might nnde fevour in the sight
of my Lord. Genesis cap. 33. verse 8. Meaning Esau
himselfe to whom he spake, although indeed he seemed to
OBSERVATIONS OF ZURICH
speakc of a third person : The like phrase being used
twise in the same Chapter, and very often in many other
places of Scripture.
It is a matter very worthy the consideration to thinke
how exceedingly God hath blessed this cJtie with a great
number of most rare wits, and passing learned men within
these foure score yeares. For though it be no Universitie
to yeeld degrees of Schoole to the students : yet it hath
bred more singular learned writers (at the least in my poore
opinion) then any one of the famousest Universities of all
Christendome, especially Divines, and such as have con-
secrated their name to posterity even til the end of the
world by their learned works. For the writers of this City
have bene no ordinary or triviall men that have divulged
to the world triobolary pamphlets, but such as have pub-
lished bookes both of the greatest volume, and of the most
excellent & sohd learning, being men endewed with those
admirable gifts as have made them equall, if not superiour
to the proToundest Scholers of Christendome ; and such
men they are as may very truly apply unto themselves that
speech of Saint Augustine : Nos sumus ex illorum numero
qui scribendo proficiunt, & proficiendo scribunt. Yea
many of them have bene such as have shined hke most
glittering blazing starres, not onely in their owne country
of Switzerland, but also in all other regions and kingdomes
of the Christian world that doe sincerely embrace the
doctrine of the reformed Church. For what Doctors can
we name in any Universitie of all Europe that excelled
these men, Huldrichus Zuinglius, Henricus Bullingerus,
Theodorus Bibliander, Rodolphus Gualterus, Ludovicus
Lavaterus, Conradus Gesnerus, Josias Simlerus, Joannes
Jacobus Frisius, Gaspar Megander, Joannes Gulielmus
Stuckius. Whose writings being replenished with most
sweete and exquisite learning doe as mute witnesses very
sufficiently testifie and confirme the truth of my speecli.
Neither doe I thinke that any man which doth judicially
reade their bookes will dissent from my opinion : Besides
many more of an inferiour ranke that have partly bene
J
[p. 393.]
Famaus
Docrori.
I
Jeregatory /o
Oxfird and
CmhrUgc.
[P- 39+-]
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
borne in this Citie, and partly professed there ; Men of
excellent parts, and well knowen unto the world by their
learned volumes, whom notwithstandmg I will passe over
unnamed, that the reader may not deeme me ambitious in
reciting the names of learned men. At this day that worthy
man Rodolphus Hospinianus with whom I conversed in
Zurich (as I have before saJd) hath much illustrated this
Citie with his manifolde bookes fiill of great learning.
Howbeit I doe not by this praise of Zurich derogate from
the learned men of mine owne country. For I am per-
swaded that our two famous Universities of Oxford and
Cambridge do yeeld as learned men as any in the world ;
but for the quantity (not the quality) of writing the Tigur-
ines without doubt have the superioritie of our English
men. To conclude this narration of Zurich : I attrioute
so much to this nobie citie, that for sweetnesse of situation,
and that wonderful exuberancy of all things whatsoever
tending both to profite and pleasure, I compare it at the
teast even with Mantua herselfe, in Italy, whom before \
have so highly extolled, if not preferre it before the same :
though indeed that be greater in compasse then this. For
that is foure Italian miles about, but the circuite of this
comprehendeth no more then halfe an Helvetian mile,
which is but two English miles and a halfe,
Thus much of Zurich.
HEre I have thought good to adde to my description
of Zurich before I proceed any further with my
observations of my travels, certaine Latine Epistles that I
sent to some of the learned men of the Citie ; partly
because thou mayest read a briefe epitome in my first
Epistle of my ensuing observations betwixt that Citie and
the farther end of Germany where I was imbarked for
England, and partly because my friends that shall happen
to reade my booke, may understand that it was my good
fortune to enter into a league of friendship with some of
the profound schollers of this worthy Citie ; a thing that
hath ministred no small joy and comfort unto me. This
EPISTLE TO GASPAR WASERUS
first Epistle following is to that rare Linguist and fkmous
traveller Gaspar Waserus. My superscription was this.
Clarissimo viro
Domino Gasparo Wasero
Eximio Philologo, & politioris literaturje in celc-
berrim& Civitate Tigurini apud Helvetios
Candidato, amico suo dilccto.
The Epistle it selfe is this.
Ubitabis arbitror (clarissime vir celeber- ^"'^ »
rimeque Musarum antistes^ aliquid sinistri f^^
mihi accidisse in profectione mei Ger-
manica inter vestram civitatem Tigurinam
& patriam meam, quoniam in tanto isto
temporis intervallo ad te haud scripserim,
proijt fidelitfer tibi promisi. Veniam mihi
des qusso. Nam tot tantisque negotiis districtus fui
statlm post appulsum meum m patna, ut vix respirandi
tempus mihi nierit, nedum scribendi otium. Quod ad
peregrinationem meam Germanicam attinet post discessum
meum k Tigiu-o, jucundissima sani atque laustissima fiiit
tota illa profectio, & secundis ventis mare trajeci, donec
mihi coutigit Anglite
Kairvov aTroQpwKovra vo^ai,
Ut Homerus de suo Ulysse canit, ac tandem exopta-
tissimum patrii mei soli littus auspicat6 appellere. Sed
quandoquidem tibi pollicitus «um, si mihi contingeret in
patrii pedem figcre, literas tibi scribcre non tantiim signi-
ficantcs gratitudinem meam ob tuam cximiam erga me
bcncvolcntiam pari conjunctam humanitate (quam gratl
quidam prtedicatione semper pradicarc soleo rois tpiKotiou-
tnn9 atquc eruditis meis amids, & cujus gratta tibi ingentes
gratias rcddo ab inttmis cordis mei reccssibus dimanantes)
sed etiam aliquem tibi gustum pnebentes mearum Ger-
manicarum ooservationum ; ccce hascc crassa Minerva
ccn 113 B
CORYATS CRUDITIES
EfistU to contextas observatiunculas tibi mitto Sxnrep iv t5 eiriTo/j^^
^^^* quoniam epistolaris ista brevitas cogit me illas coangustare»
& in multo succinctius compendium reducere, qu^ in
meo avToypa(^<p exemplari exaravi. Has ut sequi bonique
consulas, donec in publicum fusids scriptum meum hodoe-
poricum divulgaverim post meas longinquas peregrina-
tiones, Belgicam, Saxonicam, Danicam, Alemannicam,
Suecicam, Polonicam, Hispanicam, alteram etiam Italicam,
Siculam, Scoticam, Hibernicam, Germanicam, ^gyptiacam,
ac denique Hierosolymitanam (nam omnes istas regiones
si non peragrare,- saltem invisere fleov iiiovro^ decrevi) te
. impens^ rogo.
A Badeni igitur vestra Helvetica exordium sumam.
Ibi sacellum quoddam prope basilicam mortuorum calvariis
atque ossibus ade6 refertam vidi, ut alterum Golgotha
vocari non immerit6 possit. Profect6
Obstupui, stetenintque ; comse
Quando prim6 infinitam illam congeriem animadverti.
Reor equidem die mundi novissimo totam myriada
animarum illa ossa resumpturam. Badenses illos super-
stitionibus Papisticis & idolatricis cultibus supra modum
addictos observavi. Nam plurimas imagines ad idolo-
latriam spectantes in basilica vidi. Hinderhovise, quse
exiguo intervallo distat a Badena lustravi vestras Helveti-
cas thermas, qu6 magna populi multitudo ^ multis locis
circumcirci partim t?? SiarpiPnq iwKa^ partim morborum
curandorum causd tunc confluebat. Particularia balnea non
minus sexaginta illic numeravi. Peculiare avvray/jia de
illorum virtute scripsisse celeberrimum iUum tum medi-
cum tum philosophum Henricum Pantaleonem Basilien-
sem retulit mihi quidam quem in bahieo quodam sese
lavantem vidi sacerdos. Sed de errore meo in vi^ ante-
quam in illa bahiea incidere possem, scripsi in Episto^
me^ ad Dominum Hospinianum, quam, si placuerit, legas.
In Kiningsfeldiano Monasterio propb civitatem Brooke,
quod jam pertinet ad Dominos Bernenses, observavi
monumentum Leopoldi ultimi ejus nominis Austriae Ducis,
114
EPISTLE TO GASPAR WASERUS
qui multoties Helvetios infestis armis oppugnavit, & in '
templi choro picturam suam uni cum suis viginti septem
proceribus graphice depictam. BasileEc cultissimK, splen-
didissimffi, atque munitissimaE civitati mutta mihi apprimt
arriserunt, Cathedralis Ecclesia divas Marix dedicata
magnificentissima est, & microcosmo quodam insignium
tum antiquorum tum neotericorum monumentorum
egregie ornata. Illic in penitiori quadam asde, scilicfet
schola Theologica, familiaritfer versatus fiii cum prasstan-
tissimo iUo & Theologo & Philologo Joanne Jacobo
GryncEO, cujus eruditum commercium me valdt oblectavit.
Suavissimus meherclfe ac €va(j)p6SiT0ii senex est in suis collo-
iis, de quo merit6 potest illud Homericum prEcdicari
ro y\tMT(T^t ^ieXtToj yXvKlwv pitv avS^
atque illud
■rh.
f
A'fli' apto
Ibi etiam celeberrimum
reipoy^Ot efifieyai aWtav.
llum Theologum Basiliensis
Academise tov aij-rep apll^^Xov (ut Pindancis verbis utar)
Amandum Polanum i Polensdorf. in schola Theologica
prxlegentem audivi. Nec non Dominum Zuinggerum
summi illius Philosophi Theodori Zuinggeri Basiliensis
fiUum, virum profect6 elegantissimum, ac publicum GrascEe
IiDguas in il!a Academia professorem unam ex Homeri
Iliadibus publicfe interpretantem. Munacii Planci Lug-
duni fundatoris statuam ligneam affabri exstructam, intra
pTKtorii Basiliensis atrium observavi, cum pluribus aliis
memorandis rebus quas illa inclyta civitas suppeditat.
Argentina, quo advectus eram i Basilea secundo Rheno,
non parum solatii mihi prjcbuit. Turrim illam exquisi-
tissimam Cathedralis Ecclesiae uni cum femigerato illo
horologio pen^ ad stuporem sum admiratus, Urbis situs,
ledium tum publicarum tum privatarum splendor atque
elegantia sensus meos voluptate quadam nova titillavit.
Baden3° inferiori, qus ad Marchionem ipsius Principem
pertinet, balnea adeo calida sunt, ut vix illorum scaturien-
tem aquam nudis manibus attrectare possem; aiunt
Aurelianum Imperatorem horum fijisse inventorem.
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Efistk 19 ista civitas cum altera Badeni religione consentit, nimi-
^^ rtim Papistica. Tamen princeps illorum, qui religionem
profitetur reformatam, s^ \ vobis Tigurinis atque nobis
Anglis par^m discrepantem (etenim Lutheranus est) non
residet hlc, sed Turlaci. Ubi multi quidem difficultate
intra civitatis portas admissus fui. Sed nuUis rationibus
veniam ingrediendi Principis aukm impetrare potui.
Tamen prsenobilis quidam generosus, qui fuit primarius
aulae ipsius Prsefectus, perhumanissim^ me tractavit.
Inde Heidelbergam profectus sum Palatinatus inferioris
Metropolin atque florentissimam Academiam. Hlc
Comitis Palatini ad Rhenum Frederici quarti qui religi-
onem vestram & nostram amplectitur, au^ustissimum
palatium non sine difFcultate quadam intromissxis vidi, &
in quadam cella vinaria vas quoddam vinarium stupends
ac portento sae capacitatis, ad cujus summitatem lignei
scala ascendebam. Locupletissimae illius Bibliothecse,
quse extructa est in quadam parte primariae Ecclesise dedi-
catae S. Spiritui, tam copiosi supellectile librorum &
impressorum & manuscriptorum admiraculum usque in-
structae, mihi copiam fecit Principis Bibliothecarius
eximius ille politioris literaturae Candidatus Janus
Gruterus. Sed repentinus duorum adolescentulorum
Principum Anhaltinorum ingressus me impediebat, qu6
minus bibliothecam ex voto lustrarem. Postquam
deliciis Heidelbergae oculos atque animum satis pavissem,
Spiram iUam Imperialem per deserta nemorum me contuli.
Hic coUegium Jesuitarum adii, cum quibus a^ifux^^iw seu
veUtationem quandam habui, quoniam Munsteri Cosmo-
graphiam, cujus Spirensem aescriptionem in ipsorum
bibliotheci legi, malign^ deprav^nt ; expungentes non-
nuUos locos, hoc sciUc^t praetextu, quoniam adversus
fidem CathoUcae Romanae Ecclesiae faciebant. Saluta-
tionem divi Bernardi Abbatis ClarevaUensis ad beatam
virginem Mariam in basiUcl hujus urbis observavi aeneis
Uteris in tribus rotundis marmoribus incisam, O clemens
Maria, 6 pia Maria, 6 dulcis Maria. Ista verba iUum
loquutum fuisse ad lapideam imaginem ipsius stantem
ii6
EPISTLE TO GASPAR WASERUS
ad dextram introitus Chori asserunt Spirenses Papista;, ac
tum imaginem edidisse vocem ; Bernardum autem hisce
verbis illum increpasse : Dominatio tua sui ipsius oblita
est. Non decet enim fceminam ioqui in congregatione.
Multa pra:terea alia notatu dignissima hic vidi. HJnc
mihi Wormaciam contendenti, inter ambulandum in vJa
publica casus quidam infaustus infestusque contigit.
Nam forte ex trita semita in vineam quandam ad carpendos
paucos uvarum racemos deflectens, quibus sitim meam
raerendte tempore restinguerem, quia tam libere ac im-
pune me illic id facturum speravi, quod antea in nonnullis
Longobardiae vinetis factitavi ; repente a quodam rustico
bipennifero apprehensus eram, qui subitaneo suo incursu
metum sane non vulgarem mihi, utpote inermi, incussit.
Detraxil enim capiti meo petasum, atque Alemannicis
suis verbis, qua; ego prorsus ignorabam, minas mihi in-
tentavit. At ego inscius idiomatis sui, a:que ac
^aTpayoi ^piipio^, obmutui. Tandem vero interventu
quorundam qui Latinos meos sermones intellexerunt, &
pro me ad illum Germanice interpretati sunt, ac moUibus
suis dictis ferocientes ipsius spiritus placarunt, lis ita com-
posita est, ut minuto precio gaterum redjmerem. Wor-
macis totam istam historiolam quibusdam Evangelicis
ministris, & aliis facetis congerronibus narravi, qui ex
illa relatione in efFusissimos cachinnos soluti erant.
Civitas ista Wormaciensis non mediocriter mihi adblan-
dita ftiit. Quadrata turris Basihca; S. Petri e longinquo
conspicua, superba asdificia, prsecipue Episcopale prope
Ecclesiam extrinsecus insignibus gentihtiis, & picturis
duodecem Sibyllarum, quibus particularia illarum vati-
cinia de Christo subscribuntur ; Pra:torium in cujus
frontispicio Fredericus tertius Imperator depingitur,
ampla fora, spatiosEe platete, firmi muri fossis circumfusi,
propugnacula, omnia denique voluptatis materiam pere-
grinis praebent. A Wormacia per Openheimiam in latere
montis instar Jerusalem sitam, Moguntiam perrexi Elec-
toris Archiepiscopi dignitate, & typographis tot ingenua-
nim artium fcecundE matris invento celebrem. Hic in
^
CORYATS CRUDITIES
EfisiU M Jebusitas rursiis sive illos Romani Pontificis Hierarchice
Gmf^ar Janisarios, & iJTrepao-jr/irruj Ignatianas colluviei fratres incidi,
"'"''"■ cumque Nicolao Serrario eorum Patriarcha, qui tam
virulentis convitiis in Lutherum (edito quodam de Lutheri
magistro libro) debacchatus est, congressus sum. Com-
pluribus vetustis monumentis tam sacris quam profanis
Moguntia abundat. Inter caetera prope Monasterium
Benedictinorum in quodam edito colle vineis consito
observavi lapideum Colossum Drusi privigni Octaviani
CEEsaris, ingentem sanfe molem, a forma glandis Germanicfe
Aichelstein appellatam, Hic Drusum cum Germanis
dimicasse, ac post insignem victoriam de eis reportatam,
gloriosum trophEeum eum erexisse perhibent. Hinc per
Rheni & Mosni confluentem navigio Francofurtum advec-
tus eram, ubi nundinis illis autumnalibus totius Europae
celeberrimis interfui, multosque meos conterraneos ad
summum meum gaudium vidi. Populorum diversorum,
pra:sertim prEcdivitum mercatorum, ex plurimis Chris-
tianismi partibus, non tantiim ex omnibus ferfe opulen-
tissimis Germanise vestrEe urbibus, sed etiam ex Italia,
Gallia, Dania, Anglia nostra, Polonia, Scotia, &c, confertlm
huc confluentium ingentem concursum hjc sum conspicatus.
* Non, mihi si hnguie centum sint, orique centum,
Infinitas harum nundinarum divitias narrando percensere
possum. In bibliopolarum platea admirandam omni-
genorum librorum copiam animadverti, 8f inter reliquos
elegantissimam tuam orationem in obitum immortali
memoria digni vestrae Tigurinje Ecclesiae summi Anfistitis
Joannis GuTielmi Stuckii. A Francoflirto terrestri itinere
Mogunciam redii, & inde exigua cymba Rhenum usque
ad Coloniam Agrippinam sulcavi. In isto spatio multas
priEcIaras civitates atque oppida in utraque Rheni ripa
elegantisim^ sita praeterivi. Colonia ista magnificen-
tissima atque frequentissima civitas est omnium quas in
Germania vidi, & situm amcenissimum habet. Nihil non
splendidum & nitidum hic: tantiim fsEce & sordibus
EPISTLE TO GASPAR WASERUS
Pontificiarum superstitionum tota contaminatur. Multas Epinle a
egregias & non contemnendas antiquitates hic perlustravi. j^^'^
Integram historiam trium Regum, quorum sepulchrum
adeo ostentant Colonienses, ex' typographica quad;
tabula extra sacrarium appensi (in quo ftrtur illorum o
recondi) excripsi. Sed totam illam narrationem nuga-
torium commentum esse plurimi Orthodoxi censent.
Sancti Gereonis templum visitavi, ubi ossa Thebieorum
atque Maurorum Martyrum reponuntur; Sanctas etiam
Ursulae mese conterraneac templum. Hlc magna multi-
tudo ossium & craniorum asservatiu-, quae thecis vel
operculis byssinis ac bombycinis aureis stellulis distinctis
cooperiuntur. Colonia relicta liquidam viam Rhenanam
per Clivensem ditionem, Geldriam, & Hollandiam semper
tenui, in multis inclytis urbibus, Novi omago, Gorcomo,
Dordraco pernoctans. A Dordracena illa urbe Virginali
(tali enim epitheto cives illam insigniunt, partim quod
semper invicta steterit, partim etiam quod Virgo illam
fundaverit) & clarissimo Emporio Euripum usque ad
Armurum primum Zelandiae oppidum tranavi, k quo per
Middleburgum Zelandia: Metropolin Flishingam deveni,
qus peregrinationis meae GermanicE extimus erat ter-
minus. Hinc plenis carbasis pcr caeruleum elementum
vectus Londinum appuli, ubi paucos dies inter amicos
mecs, (qui obviis ulnis me post longos terrae marisque
labores amplexi sunt,) corporis & animi reficiendi causa
commoratus, tandfem in exoptatissimam patriam meam in
Comitatu Somersetensi, qui jacet in occidentali AngliE
parte, laetabundus perveni. Hic fuit ultima periodus
longinquae meas peregrinationis qua; a Venetiis ad patrios
kres millenis viginti quinque milliariis Anglicis constabat.
Habes jam (Cjrnatissime Vir) eTvvT6ii.a»; descriptam meam
Germanicam itinerationem k vestro Tiguro. Sed hoc
censeas velim nullam Germanicam civitatem majore solatio
ac voluptate me afFecisse quJtm vestram. Nam omnia illic
ade6 mihi arrisere, ut copiosiorem illius descriptionem in
meo oSonropiKii libro quim ullius alterius Germanicae urbis
(exceptis taotum Basilea, Heidelberga, Spira, & Colonii)
I
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Rfutlef fecerim. Armamentariiun vestnmi omnimodo apparatu
^^P^ bellico instructum, antiquis Aquilis & vexillis Roman-
orum, nerviceis cljrpeis, oblongis atque ancipitibus ensibus
utrinque, plurimis praeacutis cuspidibus armatis, gladio
Gulielmi Tell Suitensis confoederationis vestrae Helveticse
authore, excusso Prsfectorum vestratium externorum
jugo, qui immani ac plan6 barbarica in civitates vestras
tyrannide grassati simt, variisque aliis insignibus antiqui-
tatibus summ^ decoratum, & exquisitissimo decentissi-
moque ordine excultiun, hyperbolias ad multos meos con-
terraneos preconiis extuli. Nec non elegantem civitatis
situm, amcenum Limaci interfluxiun, nitida templa,
turrita ac pinnata mcenia profundis vallis circumdncta,
firmissima propugnacula, pulchras plateas, elegantia sedi-
ficia, excellentem vestram aristocraticam politiam, summam
in exteros humanitatem, maximam rerum onmium tmn
ad utilitatem tum ad voluptatem conducentium exuberan-
tiam, nihil non summis laudibus ad sydera evexi. Vestrse
denique civitati tantum tribui, ut paradisum deliciarum,
fertihssimiun ingeniorum totius Giermaniae seminarium,
& ipsissimum Musarum domiciUum non immerit6 appel-
laverim. Unvun tanttun hoc vobis deesse affirmavi, nimi-
rum cohonestationem virorum Tigurinorum tam Martis
quam Musarum ornamentis illustriiun statuis, Mausoleis,
& honorariis virtutum eorum epitaphiis atque elogiis, quae
ubique in omnibus coeteris Germaniae civitatibus observavi,
praecipu^ ver6 Basileae, Heidelbergae, Spirae, ac Moguntiae.
Sed omnia haec una aun Gallicis, ItaUcis, & Rheticis
observationibus quas jamdudum coUegi, & Hispanicis,
Polonicis, Danicis, Saxonicis, Turcicis, quas posthkc
(Christo duce) coUecturus sum, tandem divini numinis
auspiciis in unum corpus redacta, copios6 expUcata, ac
certo quodam ordine ac methodo digesta & typis excusa
videbis. Interek impoUtis hisce Uneis extremam coroni-
dem imponens, te oro atque obtestor, in amicorum tuorum
album referre digneris tibi addictissimum (etsi
Sit penitiis toto divisus ab orbe Britannus)
Thomam Coryatum Odcombiensem.
Londini pridie Calendas Augtuti : Anno Regis BtavBpunrov 1609.
120
EPISTLE TO GASPAR WASERUS
To the same also I wrote this poore Grecke EphtUtt
Epistle. W'"^
, , , , ... . Wastrus.
KA( Tuin-ac oXcyar ypafifiai E XXfji-war avayvievai ('Antp
o^tMTaTt Toe Koi {piXofioiirroraTf) <toO Seofiai. ica v yap
avatSev(Tiai Koi aTreipoKoXlai yinipai, aW' (i/xwr t^s etiiji Trpat
CT« tiXixptneoTaTri? ivi/ola? TtKfutpia ovk aipai^ Tvy)(avova'ii'
ovtrai. ovTwi (nairrov iuSaifiovit^w, oti e/ioi iv virepBaXiriTiaK
j(tOfMti TTTf vepia~irovSaiTTOu o-^y i^iXiu! Tvy^elv avve^i], T^r ■TroXii
/toWov inf ivtppaiwtat ij aXX^ ns ^Sovn ^( aTreXauo'' eii Taij
oSolvopiaK i/JMK. OTi Si koto tov Aij^uotrOewj, To ^ivXa^ai
Ta^aflo^ Tiw KTii(Ta!T6ai TroXXif )(ii\nrwTepov Tivat ooKei, tSc
Apovqereiet a-tj/jielov tiyovfuu t^v otjv iptXiav imjTa/xefov itayTi
Tpoirte TreipairQat avriiv thvXafiu. fitjSeva Si Xo^yoi' ;8(Xt(«
Tpot Toi^T* i^evpiiTKetv otoi t' ^V, '^ emaroXriv (roi Trifnraiv, -ytoi/t
cirdTToXur elvat oiove! opyavinai aiTiar, Si ds etwOafiev wf to TroXXa
TQt (biXta^ ^e^atovv, aa Si diTij ^ <ptXia irap' tjniv aXX^Xoif
au^6^, TQvTO (TOi ev^ofiai (twv Moinrtvf Xa/iTrooVaTOl' «Xeof)
bjtrrt avTiTefiireiv e/ioi Tu ypafipiaTa eK tov Tiyovpov, wvTrep
ovStv fi-ot yaptivrepov "i ■KoQeiviarepov avtifidttj, to Se fioxpov
TOTOv Stdrrrrtfia ovSev eiTTiv ifiirdoKTfia Trpat tovto. paSliot
yap ovvtj airooTeXXeii' uura Trpot AyyXtav inro tov ippayKo-
dmvpTm TSiTWVTroXvdpvWtjToiveKfivwv ayopwv Katpw. eav TavTiji
T% iptXavBpaivtai ifi a^ionrijv, Stiwov aXtrrw ttJs (piKtat trvvSiiTfi^
ifii Toi aei wrripiy^eK. eppaxTO 6 T^t TraiSeiat dxtXTT^o, eoil &v
xaX<v "Sw, a-e, 6 fioi avfi^tiireadai eXvil^w iv Tip ep-^Ofiivui Oepel.
oeofiat troO trpotretirelv irap ifiov eKeivov ivyev^ Tiyouptvov Kvpiov
O pTfiavvov A'iv€\epov, 09 tpiKavQpwrroTaTa fioO e^iJraTO airr»
dtTi T^t eavToO e« ifit ipiXavOptomas \aptv o>9 oioc Te fieyiiTTtiv
avoSlSwfit.
EufievitTTarot trov ipiXiK, a-o) aei ewt tik TeXem-^t mveixtpiyftivot
Owfiat K-opiaToi A^-yyXof o ek tij? 0'oKOfiffiat.
AovSivoBev irpwTti itrrafiivov "Zitipo^Ppiuivot Tip eTet tteTU Tif^'
iva-dpKUKTiv ^^OTiipot Tou KiitTfiov ^(iXtorrT^e^cucoirioiTTai ivvarif.
Having about some three quarters of a year since re-
ccived an answer from thjs learned man, I have thought
it oot amisse to insert it into this place, as an argumeDt
EpUtitJhm
Waiina.
y
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
of his love unto me ; but I will not expresse his super-
scriptioQ, as I have done those of the Epistles that I
wrote unto all my foure learned friends of this Citie of
Zurich, because he ascribeth such titles unto me, as I
oever did, nor shall deserve in my life. The Epistle
itselic is this.
S. P. D.
Itene tux (Doctissime Vir) quas ex ultimis
nundinis autumnalibus ad me dedisti,
mihi redditse, & longi ^tissimce fuerunt
multis nominibus. Nam, pneter iter
tuum, quod graphici & luculent^ admo-
dum descripsisti, clar^ ex eis per^)exi
eximiam tuam benevolentiam, qul me
licit abseotem, & longissim^ k vobis dissitum egregii
sani prosequeris, & ad eam perpetuandam proporr6 te
quasi devincis. Qute causa est, cur non noluerim isthoc
Epistolium tibi reponere, & eandem tibi de me quoque
polliceri. Iter egregium profecti est, quod ab eo tem-
pore, ex quo Ji me discessisti, fclicitj:r Dei grati^ confecisti :
& optandiun esset, ut multi tui similes extarent, qui non
transcurrendo tantimi corpora aspicerent, sed introspicerent
etiam animos, rerum momenta, non margines aut super-
ficies. Tum major profecto hominum poUticorum &
prudentum, quibus etiam in Ecclesia habemus opus, sine
dubio extaret numerus. Hoc si diUgentiori cune mihi
fuisset in AngUa, Scotiil, Hibernia, Belgio, Gallia, Ger-
manil, ItaUa, & dibi, quum provincias illas florentissimas
peragrarem, paul6 melius res se mes haberent. Pneclari
igitur tu, qui omnia ista qu^m diUgentissim^ observare,
scrutari, connotare voluisti. Etenim meminisse tandem
hec tanta juvabit.
De rerum statu nostrarum pauca habeo ad te scribere.
Rex GalUse rec^ns In Helvetiis conscribi curavit sex milUa
peditum ; qute ad redigendos ducatus Juliacensem, CUven-
sem & Montensem in potestatem Prindpum Brandebiu--
genis & PaUtini, in Galliam hlnc proficiscentur. Qu6d si
EPISTLE FROM GASPAR WASERUS
Serenissimus Rex vester, (uti ftcturum credunt & optant B^Utlefr
omnes boni) sua quoque conjungat auxilia, magnam sane „/^^l_,^
jacturam faciet Antichristus. Apologiam ejus cum pra^-
fatione monitoria refutatam esse i BeDarmino, haud dubife
jam cognovisti. Regerit is Cramben Pontificiam millies a
nostris refiatatam magna sua ignominia, Vestrum jam est
Regis vestri causam contra Lanistam istum Purpuratum
in manus sumere, & masculfe propugnare ; prout per Dei
gratiam virorum generosissimorum & in hac palfestra exer-
citatissimorum apud vos ingens est copia. Deus optimus
maximus vestris laboribus prolix^ benedicat ; cujus clien-
tela", seu Xttikvi atT(pa\finariij, te commendo corditiis mi
■Thoma optime, & amicissime. Tiguri i6 Mart, 1610
^r Tui studiosissimus Gaspar Waserus,
^^ Professor sanctarum linguarum in scholS TigurinS.
I
This Epistle following is to M. Rodolphus E/>iiiu a
Hospinianus a learned Preacher and writer of '^'^"'P^f^
^_ controversies of the Citie of Zurich. The preachtr.
^■1 superscription whereof is this.
^V* Reverendissimo viro Domino Rodolpho Hospinlano
^V prsstantissimo theologo, vigilantissimoque animarum
^^ pastori in inclyta civitate Tigurina Helveticarum
urbium Metropoli.
The Epistle it selfe is this.
Tsi non ut hominem perfrictae frontis,
audacis tamen genii seu ingenii fortasse
(Vir Clarissime) me redargueris, qu6d ad
te ausim scribere, & Musas tuas severiores
hisce intempesttvis lineis interpellare.
Condones quaeso meae audaciae. Nam
talem opinionem tua: humanitatis ac
egregii candoris imbibi, quippe qu6d femiliarissimo tuo
commercio in Eedibus tuis TigurJ me dignatus fueris, ut
non omnin6 ingratas tibi istas Hteras fore mihi penitus
persuaserim, prsesertim cum proficiscantur Jl grato animo
CORYATS CRUDITIES
EpiiiU u gratias tibi singulares reddente ob tuam summam erga me
,, T. benevolentiam, quam satis abund^ demonstrasti, quando
Uoipimaniii, ... ,.''., , , , ,. . ^
Preacher. "lum eruditum, suaviter moratum,ac lietEC mdolis juvenem
Marcum Buelerum mihi ut comitem conciliasti toto illo
tempore quod contrivi in vestra civitate. Juvenis ille, cui
plurimis nominibus me devinctissimum ingenufe agnosco,
idoneus & index & dux mihi fuit. Nam insignit^r mihi
gratificatus est tum indicando mihi precipuas maximaque
observatione dignissimas res, quas vestra suppeditavit
civitas, ut templa, arces, propugnacula, scholas, celeber-
rimum vestrum armamentarium omni munitionum genere
ac TracoTrXia instructum, nihil visu dignum omittens :
tum etiam ducendo vel potius deducendo me in via mea
Badenam versus, 8f quando nobis mutuo valediximus, vim
lachrymarum {6 tenellum & liquidum cor) profiindendo,
Ejus humanitati atque t^ avatit^rrEi omnino tribuo,
quod tam copiosam historiolam vestrae civitatis scripserim.
Multo enim pleniorem narrationem feci in meo oSonropu:^
Tiguri ac rerum Tigurinarum, quam uUius alise civitatis
in Germania, exceptis duntaxit quatuor, Basilea, Heidel-
berga, Spira, & Colonia. Parvi (reverende vir) tuo con-
silio una quadam re. Nam si memineris, consuluisti mihi
digredi pariim ex via ad videndum balnea prop^ Badenam
vestram Helveticam. Sed in multis profecto diverticulis
& ignotis callibus erravi, antcquam illa invenire potuerim,
hac prajcipue de causa, quoniam inscius vestrE lingus non
potui Germanicfe percontari viam. Tantum hac phrasi uti
solius eram. Her ist das der raight stroze auf balnea.
Sed Germani, prsecipue rustici illi Corydones quibus
obviam dedi, existimantes prce rudi mea atque imperita
verborum Teutonicorum pronuntiatione me peregrinum
fuisse, & vestriE linguje ignarum, mihi interroganti semper
annuerunt, & gestibus quibusdam subobscuris viam in qua
progrederer, mihi indigitarunt, sed non viam ad balnea.
Non enim intellexerunt quid sibi vellet meum verbum
Balnea, Tandem post multam deambulationem Kininfs-
feldianum Monasterium veni, ubj a quodam docto juvene,
qui linguam Latinam mediocriter calluit, sciscitatus sum
EPTSTLE TO R. HOSPINIANUS
ubt essent balnea Badensia. Respondit, me illa prxteri-
isse, & a tergo reliquisse per totum Germanicum millt-
arium. Quare efflagitationum mearum instantia illam & ]
oravi & exoravi, ut ad balnea me comitaretur. Quod
humanitatis officium benevolentissime mihi prEestitit,atque
ita post multos errores balnea illa lustrare & eorum virtu-
tem expJorare mihi contigit. Juvenis ille quoniam
eandem quam ego religionem professus est, femiliari sua
societate, & blandis facetiis me valde recreavit. Inde pro-
fectus sum Brookam, Rheinfeldiam, ubi iteriim leniter ac
amoene labentem vestrum Limacum observavi, ac tandem
Basileam. Hic genialiter biduum contrivi versando cum
plurimis egregiis viris, Musarum & rei literarix candidatis,
Sed recensere tibi omnes meas Germanicas observationes,
quas in illis inclytis civitatibus curiosiiis collegi, esset tum
prolixum tum superfluum, prsecipufe quoniam in Epistola
mea ad celeberrimum illum Dominum Gasperum Wase-
rum concivem tuum, qua fieri potuit maxima brevitate illa
omnia succincte attigi, quam (si tibi visum fuerit) legas.
Amicos illos tuos, quos ut a te salutarem me orasti, viros
reverendissimos, atque egregiis virtutum & eruditionis non
vxilgaris laudibus excuItissimOE, Academire Oxoniensis ful-
gidissima luminaria, Dominum Doctorem HoIIandum
regium Theologije apud Oxonienses professorem, & Domi-
num Doctorem Rivium novi Collegii ibidfem Gardianum
(ut vulgo vocant, Anglicfe (he Warden) haud quaquam
vidi, ex quo domum redii. Sed salutem tuam illis trans-
misi per conterraneum tuum Dominum Gasparum Thom-
annum Tigurinum, qui multos annos Oxonii literis operam
dedit. Cum illo familiaritatem nuper inivi. Nam literas
illi a patre suo viro honestissimo sane (ut mihi videtur) &
pientissimo tradidi, cui gratias quasso maximas des meo
nomine, quod me Tiguri humanissimi tractaverit.
Quinetiam noc oro te, ut iHi significes, filium suum adversa
fortuna apud nos uti ; nam tanta inopia & paupertate
Uborat, ut irufivaOeiat' quandam in me commoveret
utque vicem ejus maximfe dolerem. Proinde sicuti ego
illi consulvi ut in patriam rediret, ubi cum parentibus,
CORYATS CRUDITIES
^/u«^« propinquis, & necessariis reliquum setatis conterat, prae-
^^^!L^ cipui quum patria sua eruditissimis viris abundet, quorum
PrtacAer. ' societas illi tum adjumento in confidendo doctrinse suie
studio, & levamento in sublevandl sua egestate futura sit ;
sic edam pater ipsius <l>ika(rropyiav suam dedarabit, &
paterni erga illum amoris spedmen egregimn edet, si
literas ad illum scripserit, quibus eum ad penates suos
Tigurinos revocet, qu6 tandem aliquand6 post diutumum
istud quasi volimtaniun exilium ex duld sui patri& sibi in
canide sua adminiculum, & veluti idonemn aa senectutem
suam sufiFulciendam baculum sit. Tum patris tum patriae
sue causa opto ei ex animo magis secundam fortunam
qukm apud nos fruitur. Nam patriam ipsius tanto amore
amplector, ut (si Deus mihi vitam prorogaverit) in prox-
ima mea Germanica profectione totam vestram Helvetiam
perlustrare decreverim, praecipu^ tredecem vestros Can-
tones, Tigunun & Basileam iterum, Bernam, Scafusium,
Solodurum, Lucemam, Friburmun, Swidam, Uraniam,
Sylvaniam, Tugium, Glaream, I Abbatis cell:^.
Sed qu6 tandem excurrit vel expatiatur calamus meus?
ignoscas quaeso prolixitati meae (dignissime vir) nam tua
humanitate fretus (quam re ipsa non ita pridem expertus
sum) calamo meo nimis laxas habenas dedi, quas jam
restringere expedit, ne tibi in pulcherrimo tuo Theologico
studio impigre currenti ista levicuk Trapepya sint impedi-
mento, qu6 minus ad extremam curriculi metam per-
venias. Promisit mihi (egregie vir) ingenuus ille juvenis
Marcus Buelerus se sollidtaturum te ut mihi rescribas, si
pri^s ad te scriberem. Quo me favore si dignatus fueris,
usque ad extremum vitae halitum obstringes
Tibi deditissimvun, tuaeqiie doctrinae haud
minimum praeconem
Thomam Coryatum Odcombiensem.
Londini pridie Calen. August Anno 1609.
136
EPISTLE TO HENHY BULLINGER
The third Epistle I sent to M. Henry BuUinger '
aforesaid, the superscription is this.
Viro ornatissimo amico suo Henrico Bullingero, cele-
berrimi illius viri Henrici Bullingeri summi Tigurinae
urbis quondam antistitis nepoti, eruditissimo ac
vigilantissimo apud Tigurinos in Helvetia Ecdesi-
astse.
The Epistle it selfe is this.
Via inter reliquos meos Tigurinos amicos
non ultimum locum tenes (ciarissime
charissimeque mi Bullingere) h me paucis
compellandus & salutandus es. Ne si
intellexens me ad Dominum Hospim-
anum & Dominum Waserum Uteras
dedisse, teque omisisse, ingratitudinis
notam mihi inuras, quum tam benevole, tam humaniter,
tam comitfcr multo supra tum expectationem tum meritum
meum domi tus Tiguri ultimo autumno me tractaveris,
Nam tam benigno ac dulci alloquio me ignotum ac pere-
grinum in jedibus tuis dignari, manifestum liberalis animi
argumentum fuit ; sed in bibliothecam tuam, in illud tam
varie copioseque instructum Musaeum (quod mult6 majus
crat) me introducere, librorum tuorum elegantissimorum
copiam mihi facere, avi tui beatse memoriEe manuscripta
volumina ostendere, humanitatis tute singularis ut insigne
indtcium & praedicavi meis doctis conterraneis, nonnuUis
aulicis viris, celeberrimarum Academiarum nostrarum
alumnis, & equestris ordinis generosis; & prsdicare non
supersedebo,
•Dum memor ipse mei, dum spiritus hos reget artus.
Proinde fiicere non potui quin paucis hisce lineis te
salutem, partim ut turpem ingratitudinis labem subter-
fugiam ; partim etiam ut amicitia nostra firmiiis coalescat,
^jupd summoperfe expeto.
k
CORTATS CKUDTriBS
M§it^ m Antequam vidi Masacam timiiiy tam &h]d aooqit, tnm
^^ ^ ui daobas probatis aatfaoribos legi, Joannrm Casun Epis-
jifliiqipi. ^pp,^^ Boieventanam in Ifalia de Sod om ig r hadibas
libdlam oonscripsisse. Aadiofcs illi apud qoos iDias fit
mentio, sant isti, Joannes Jaelhis iUe nostcr PlicEnix
Anglicas, j^nscopas Saridmnensis^ in soa eknntissima
d wti f fi " K kn fr Ecdesix A"pl<^^*^ Annlogiam & c *" '* - m "^p ^
iiie tous contenaneas Ccmndus Gesncras in soa Bibli-
otfaeci, qui faiscc verbis illom librum menKxat. Imparis-
simus luc nd>uk> cdidit poemata qujedam Italic^ in
publicum Venetiis cxcusa, in quibas (pnA sodas) Sockmi-
iam kadibus eztollit. Istorum autfacnticoram scriptDrum
autfaoritate nixus, sarpiusculi Papicolis in Ai^ia & alibi
rctuli quendam Papisticum Episcopum Italicum tam ^iur-
cum librum scripsis», eumque typb imprin^^
ut nullus nostrae rctormataB rcligionis p r o tessor vd aodirc
illum patientir ferrct, nc dum talcm conscribcrct. Rc-
fiagati mihi sunt Papists dc isto libro vcrba ficicnti, &
tam potinacitir affirmarunt nullum ejusmodi fibrum \
Casa fiiissc scriptum, ut aliquantum dubitavcrim utrum
vcrum cssct quod dc illo libro memorifle prodiderunt
gravissimi isti autfaorcs. Scd quum jam tandcm faiscc
oculis illum intucri in tuo Musaeo mifai oontigcrit, non
video cur cxccrandam illius consceleratissimi Episoopi
spurdtiam cxcuscnt Pontificii. Etsi autcm ille immundis-
smius libcr sit dignus qui aut Thetidi, aut Vcneris tradatur
marito (ut elegant^ politissimus ille Politianus loquitur
de Homero \ se translato in quadam Epistola ad Jacobum
Cardinalem Papienscm) tamen tibi consulerem reservarc
potius in Bibliotheci tua illud detestandum monxmientum
ad perpetuum Papisticae immundiciei dedecus & infiuniam.
O vos terque quaterque beatos Tigurinos, qui per totum
pen^ Christianum orbem, pnccipu^ religionem reformatam
& veri Christianam profitentem, pro fidei vestrse puritate,
assiduE & indefessi in scribendo industria, singulari &
incomparabili doctrina, & eximia pietate, suprii reliquos,
etiam in extremis oris plagisque totius Christianismi cele-
bramini. Ita enim Deus vestrae dvitati & incolis bene-
198
EPISTLE TO HENRY BULLINGER
dixit, ut nulla sit Christianismi pars tam longe dissita, quo i>«'i «
non nominis vestri celebritas [jervaserit, prssertim ex quo J^D
puriorem Evangelii doctrinam amplexi estis, Nam tem-
pore illo tenebrarum, quo crassis illis superstitionibus &
idolomania Papistica immersi estis, non memini vel unum
clarum virum vescram civitatem peperisse. Sed ex quo
Papismo nuncium remisistis, & repurgatam doctrinam filii
Dei, sacrosanctum ejus Evangelium in cordibus vestris
plantastis, prsedicastis, in circumjacentibus regionibus, dis-
seminatis, & tam vocibus quim accuratissimis vestris
scriptis eam propugnastis, Deus bone quot strenui &
heroici Jesu Christi athlet^, quot imperterriti veritatis
Evangelicae ■Kpomypi Tiguri exorti sunt, qui pro ortho-
doxa & veteri Catholica doctrina vere Apostolica, verfe
Christiana contra ementitum RomanE EcclesiE Catholi-
cismum, & commentitium Papalis tyrannidis primatum
calamis suis, & spirtualibus gladiis pugnantes, sibi &
patriae sux immortalem gloriam nulla temporis injuria
intermorituram pepererunt? nam tot egregios verbi divini
assertores contra novitias & spurias Cacolycie Romanse
Synagogae traditiones apud vos intra octoginta annorum
spatium natos arbitror, quot nullam aliam totius Christi-
anismi Academiam vix peperisse reor. Ut autem caeteros
Tigurinos Doctores taceam, Henricus BuIIingerus avus
tuus pis memoriae instar omnium erit, qui doctrinam
sinceriorem Jesu Christi purissime ut flfoiri/ciwTot &
QfoSihaKTo^ Doctor & docuit, & promovit ad insignem
Christianffi reipub. utilitatem, & elaboratissimis suis lucu-
brationibus vestram civitatem, non minus quim Smyrnam
suam Homerus, aut Mantuam Virgilius maximfe nobili-
tavit ; cujus libris Theologicis, prKsertim Decadibus suis
tantum authoritatis tribuimus nos Angli, quantum Sibyl-
linis oraculis antiqui Romani ; usque adeo ut publice in
Ecclcsiis nostris eas asservari authoritate Regia mandatum
sit, quo plebeii homines iis concionibus in sacrosanctis
Christianae fidei mysteriis iaciliCis informentur. Hunc si
imiteris (doctissime mi Bullingere) hujus vestigiis si
inhjerescas, & tam vitae integritate qu^m doctrinic puritate
c.c. II laa 1
I
1
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
EfiitU • si illius genium exprimas (quod te summis conadbus facere
a!!^ accepi) veri te avissare dicam. Quod ut fadas, dos Angli
^^^' (qui avi tui sanctissimam memoriam veneramur) p^ecipue
e^, qui tecum aliquam saltem ezternam si non intimam
amidtiam contraxi, ardentibus votis exoptamus.
Macte igitur virtute tua, sic itur ad astra
(Egr^e vir,) & istam quam nactus es Spartam oma, hoc
est, istam saoam &cultatem Theologicam quam suscepisti,
excole, ut tandem consummatissimus Theologus & Ex-
desise Christi fiilgida lampas, sicut Luna Inter minores
Stellas, evadas. Vale doctissime mi BuUingere, & hunc
animulum meum veri & o^f^cv^ tui amantem ut redames
te instant^ oro. Tui studiosissimus
Thomas Coryatus Odcombiensis.
Londini Pridie Calendas Augusti, Anno 1609.
E/iitkm The fourth and last Epistle I sent to my fiiend
B^eni. Marcus Buelerus above named.
The superscription is tbis.
Egrc^iK indolis & opbnue spei juveni Marco Buelero
Musanmi alumno, ac beni merito suo amico, Tiguri
PrimarieB Hdvetiec Civitatis rd literarise & bonis
artibus operam danti.
The Epistle it selie.
Andcm aliquando (darissime mi Buelere)
post longas monts hasce literas tibi mitto,
non sinc dokwe profect6 ablatam fuisse
niihi td te scribendi oppcHtunitatem toto
] f t o tempore ex quo patriam meam ;^>puli ;
prfpeditus ninuriim magna n^odonun
niok, quc statim post meum m patrife
fines iDgressum me undique drcumvaUarunt. Sed pnestat
ser6 scnbere qukm non omnina Non possum satis amplas
gradas tibi reddere (mi Buelcre) ob tuam insignem
faumanitatem ultimo autumno Tiguri mihi pnestitam.
EPISTLE TO MARCUS BUELERUS
quam quoad vixero grata atque tenaci memoria complectar, Epistk te
&, si in Helvetia aliquod tempus conterere mihi iterum ^"'y''^
contigerit (quod fortassfe aliquand6 accidet pra; amore illo
quo uberrimam tuam patriam amplector) aliquod sanfe
gratitudinis specimen edam, quod tuam in me benevolen-
tiam aliqua ex parte rependet. Nam tua potissimum ope
adjutus plurima memoranda in vestra Civitate Tigurina
observavi, quiE forsan posthac typis excusa uni cum
Gallicis, ItaJicis, & Germanicis meis observationibus
videbis.
Memini (mi Buelere) in mutuis nostris colloquiis inter
deambulandum me sciscitatum fliisse te an Graecam lin-
guam calleres, (eque respondisse, qu6d etsi adhuc ejus
imperitus esses, tamen divino numine aspirante eam addis-
cere decreveris. Ego illa occasione Jmpulsus, in laudem
prasstantissimse Jllius Ungua; aliquantum digressus fui,
promisique (si unquam ad te scriberem) ad illius studium
te seri6 cohortari velle. Proindfe non abs re erit, si paucas
lineas exarem, quibus tanquam stimulis seu calcaribus
quibusdam ad elegantissimK illlus lingua; cognitionem
imbibendam te incitem, Quum multa sint (mi Marce)
quJF te ad Graecam linguam perdiscendam exacuere pos-
sunt, tum h^c duo potissimum. Prim6 exempla omnitun
vestratium celeberrimorum Tigurinorum, qui doctrinje
laude fioruerunt. Nam quum multos clarJssimos immor-
talique memoria dignissimosviros vestra civitas produxerit,
Huldicuni ZuingHum, Henricum Bullingerum vestri Bul-
lingeri egregii Theologi jam apud vos viventis avum,
Theodorum Bibhandrum, Conradum Gesnerum, Rodol-
phum Gualterum, Ludovicum Lavaterum, Rodolphum
CoUinum, Josiam Simlerum, Joannem Jacobum Frisium,
Joannem Guilielmum Stuckium, cum plurimis aliis prEc-
stantissimis viris, qui in vestro Helvetico orbe tanquam
splendidissima luminaria refulserunt, omnes istos Graeci
non mediocritfer doctos, sed ea lingua ad amussim excultos,
ad ejusque summum quasi apicem et fastigium pervenissc
reperies ; quippe cuius adminiculo veritatem indagare,
errores remtare, & Pontificiorum prava dogmata atque
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Efiftli t9 mpoSiSaa-kakiav evertere fkcilids possent Nam ex omnibiis
^^HfL ill^stribiis viris quos vestra aluit civitas, ne unimi quidem
nominare potes qui Gnec^ ling^uk non imbutus fuerit.
Secund6 consideratio crassae insatise nonnullorum, qui etsi
famam aliquam ob superfidalem quandam doctrinam in
repub. literaria adepti fuerint, tamen quia hujus linguee
cognitione destituti fu&*e, in multos putidos ac fcedos
errores prolapsi sunt, & scriptis suis perridiculas quasdam
absurditates ipsis etiam pueris irridendas & reprehendendas
mandarunt. Nam Petrus Comestor Ecclesise Trecensis
presbyter, qui vixit anno i2o6. & prestantissimus sui tem-
poris theologus existimatus fuit, hoc vocabulum Eunuchus
derivare non dubitavit ab ei; quod significat ben^, & Nuche,
victoria. Nimiriim qu6d egrema & pen6 ccelestis victoria
ei visa fuerit. Quum re veri dedicatur oxo t^ «/i^ quod
significat cubiculum, & exetv habere, id est, sese in cubiculo
connere, quia eunuchi ad cubiculorum & gyneoeorum
custodiam curamque comparari solebant, qu6d andllis
expeditiores essent, & ob exemptos testiculos ad coitum
inepti. Nicolaus etiam Lyranus egregius apud nos Anglos
theologaster, & Minoritanae famihae summum decus, qui
fioruit anno 13 lo. hypocritam appellari affirmavit ab hypos
quod est sub, & crisis aurum. Quia sub auro scilic6t
exterioris conversationis habet absconditum plumbum fal-
sitatis : anile profect6 delirium, & puerilibus sibilis exdpi-
endum. Alius etiam Theologus non infimse apud
Pontificios classis, diabolum traxisse nomen scribit k dia
quod est duo, & bolus morsus (d lepidum & perfacetum
caput, ne dicam plumbeum) qu6d duobus sdlic^t morsibus
totum hominem devoret, uno corpus, altero animam. Sed
constat airo roS SiafiaXXeiv potius deduci diabolum, quoniam
quum sit humani generis hostis, homines apud Deum
odiminiatur. Nonn^ subsannas nasoque suspendis adunco
istas pueriles etymologias .^ quare ne ejusmodi crassa errata
committas, quae ex Graecae hnguse ignorantia oriri solent,
tibi amic^ consulo
Exemplaria Graeca
Noctiirna versare manu, versare diurna.
13«
EPISTLE TO MARCUS BUELERUS
Ut cum Horatio loquar. Nam (ut idem affirmat) Sfiakm
Miuvus
Graiis ingenium, Graiis dedit ore rotundo Btubnu.
Musa loqui.
Memorise proditum est Joannem Capnionem quem aUks
vocabant Reuchlinum, authorem hujus apoththegmatis
fiiisse : Hebrsos quidem bibere fontes, Grsecos yer6 rivos,
Latinos autem paludes. Quare rivulis istis limpidissimis
temet proluas, rivulis inquam qui in carminibus Homeri,
( a quo ceu fonte perenni
Vatmn Pieriis ora rigantur aquis)
abund^ scatent, in Demosthenis et Isocratis orationibus
melle Hymettio dulcioribus. Crede mihi mi (Buelere)
etsi salebrosa sit & spinosa via ad Athenas Graecie acro-
polin, tamen illuc si semel perveneris, infinitis deliciis &
3uadam voluptatum affluenti^ animum tuum pasces.
Ludimenta fortasse Gnecse lingue aspera & acerba simt,
tamen postquam sedulitate & V igilantia industrii eorum
acerbitate superaveris, singularem quandam jucunditatem
ind^ percepturus es. Memento illius non tam veteris
quim veri dicti ; x^^^ '^^ «coXa, & pervulgati illius
versiculi.
Dulda non meruit qui non gustavit amara.
iisdem pen^ verbis te alloquor (mi Buelere) quibus
Helenus Virgilianus ^neam affatus est.
*Via prima salutis
(inquit Helenus>) sed gloriae atque felicitatis, inquam ego,
(Quod minim^ reris) Graia pandetur ab urbe.
2t Grseca videlic6t lingua potissim^m petenda est illa cog-
nitio quae te merit6 beare potest. Brevem istam parsenesin
ad politissimae illius linguae scientiam comparandam aequi
quaeso bonique consulito, exemplis nimiriim nixam tum
multorum Doctorum qui in vestra civitate Tigurina floru-
*^neid 3.
133
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Epistlno erunt, quonim fama propter summam atque feri incom-
itftfiTitf parabilem eorum in omni doctrinarum genere praccipu^
niierus. Theologiae scientiam in totum Christianum orbem eman-
avit, & quos non mod6 non abhorruisse h, Graec^ lingua sed
etiam ad ipsum illius cuhnen aspirasse manifestum est;
tum etiam absurditatum quarundam, quse ex illius linguae
inscitia profecte simt.
Quod mihi promisisti Tiguri vehementissim^ te oro
prestare. Nam poUicitus es mihi, si scriberem ad tres
illos pereruditos atque egregios viros, Dominum Waserum,
Dominum Hospinianum, & Dominvun BuUingerum^ te
iUos soUicitaturum ut mihi rescribant. Quare quum ad
iUos scripserim, obsecro te ad me Uteras dare ut lUis per-
suadeas. Quam mihi humanitatem si prsestiterint, me
iiUs Gordiano quodam amicitiae nodo perpetu6 devindent.
Porr6 hoc te rogo, ut gratias maximas meo nomine
Domino Thomanno rei frumentaris apud vos prsfecto
pro sua erga me benevolentia haud vulgari agas, eiqui
significes me tradidisse fiUo suo Uteras quas ab eo accepi
Timiri, nec non fiUum suum secunda valetudine perfrui,
sed jam
Non flavit veUs axmi secimda suis.
Hse simt quas tamdiu abhinc tibi promisi Uterae, quas sequo
atque benevolo animo te accepturum spero, praesertim
missas ^tui aKifiSiiXm amantissimo amico ; aliquam etiam k
te Epistolam vicisslm expecto, quam mihi pergratam fore
tibi penit^s persuadeas. Vale beUissime mi Buelere.
Tibi obstrictissimus tuaequ^ incolumitatis cupidissimus,
Thomas Coryatus Odcombiensis.
Londini pridi^ Calendas Augusti 1609.
FRom my friend Marcus Buelerus, unto whom I wrote
this Epistle, I received in answere of mine at the same
time that my learned friend Mr. Waserus sent me that
before mentioned, which for the love sake I beare unto
him, in regard of the great courtesies he did me in Zurich,
I have thought good to communicate to the world, though
134
EPISTLE FROM MARCUS BUELERUS
indeede it be but piaine, and wanteth that elegancy that I
expected from him. The titles that he attributed unto
me (because I will not acknowledge them, as being alto-
gether unworthy of the least of them) I have omitted, as
I have done those of Mr. Waserus before.
His Epistle is this,
Tane litera; a te (vir clarissime & charis-
sime) tandem ? Quod in gaudio im-
proviso, vix credidi ipse meis oculis cum
legerem, manibus ciim tenerem. Deum
ego testor, ut in solo nomine tuo lecto
exsilii. Officium mihi fuit tua scriptio,
im6 beneficium,quia«n-(0'A^frea)restindex;
quia etiam, quam sermone benevolentiam tu ante bien-
nium, eam nunc affatim ostendit Epistola tua venusta,
lepida, & pro re ipsa bella, qua me summo studio, pro
amore, pro familiaritate nostra, pro candore denique tuo
singulari ad Grcecas literas exhortaris, multis rationibus
firmissimis allicis, persuades, delectas ; ab hoc enim tem-
pore, quo ad me tuae literae venerunt, & antfe, omnem
meam operam & laborem in hoc studio collocavi, quoad
JKJtui dtligentissimfe ; a ju^ ^e /xfndOtiica irpoerTKip^onai Tais
■o\l
yap ,
Epuikjrm
Marcm
Buelerm.
' y(prifTifj.wv
eirtfyifiatt.
evieixmi So^d^eiv, q v€pL Totv a^tiuTwi/ axpi^w iiriiTTarTQai.
•ttcarrfi Oe t^ irept Ttjv ^ppavtjaiv ftrifieXeiai eiicoTiuf (tu aiTiov eivai
vofuiTeii. Aictye eKeho otKaios av ex KapSla^ X"!""' *X/"* /ieyoKtiv.
Convictu Domini Beumleri usus sum eo tempore, cum
adfiiisses, nunc vero Domini Henrici Bullingeri, ad quem
etiam literas dedisti, quem ego propter mirificam (piXav6pa>-
riai' & singularem erga me benevolentiam & amo & colo.
Videbis fortassis aliquando alios libros multos, quos Domi-
nus Beumlerus praestantissimus Theologus edidit, (si
mod6 nostrorum Tigurinorum Theologorum libros evol-
vere cupias) multa enim volumina scripsit contra D.
Heilbrunnerum, Pistorium, Bellarminum, Jacobum
AndreEC, Philippum Nicolai, Faustum Socinum, & alios
hsereticos recentiores. Ex tuis literis denique conjecturam
»3S
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Marcus
Bwelenu.
Bfhtle/rm fecere potui te incolumem in patriam rediisse; gratulor
itaque tibi reditum illum prosperum in patriam tuam, &
(ut debeo) vehement^r g^audeo, post longinquam tuam in
regionibus transmarims peregrinationem. Plurimiun
tibi arridet nostra ^Helvetia, & ^iKavdpanrla, qvA gens ista
praedita est, insignis ; contrk ego Angliam in pectore amo,
cdm ob religionem sinceram, tum propter Doctores (ut
audio) fato qu6dam natos ad optimas artes, & erudiendam
rudem nostram aetatem. Itaque si Deus vitam et vires
aliquas, viaeque securitatem in hac aestate annuerit, studio-
rum causa Heideibergam vel Steinfurtum proficiscar, et in
reditu in patriam, me vestra etiam Anglia per aliquot
menses habebit quod tam ben^ Deus (aveo) qukm ego
avid^. Plura adderem, sed quoniam inclusas has volvit
suis literis Clariss. Scholae nostrae Rector Dominus
Waserus, fasciculus ne supra modum cresceret, hlc sub-
sisto, plura quidem addere jussit amor, qui magnus mihi
in te & sanctus. Valdi de valere cupio, (optime vir) kcu
(f>iKoutrra avri <^iXeii/. Si respondere velis, ad nundinas Fran-
cofurtenses autumnales Tigurum mitte literas ad Domi-
num Waserum, qui mihi (si Tiguri adhuc immora) reddet,
sin miniis, ad me transmittet. Itenun vale. Tiguri in
patria 8. Cal. Aprii. Anno ultimi temporis 1610.
Tui Studiosissimus Marcus Buelerus
Tigurinus SS. Theologiae studiosus,
il\ucptvil9 KCU aVUTTOKptTO^ (piiXiK.
BUt now at length I will returne to my observations
againe. I departed from Zurich upon a Sat\u*day
being the seven and twentieth of August, about two of
the clocke in the afternoone (being conducted about two
miles in my way by my friends Mr. Thomannus and
Marcus Buelerus, who at our final departing bedewed his
cheekes with teares) and came to a place nine English
Maristella. miies beyond it called Maristella, which is hard by the
river Limacus, about eight of the clocke in the evening.
I passed the river in a boate, and lay that night in a
solitary house by the river side. Betwixt Zurich and
136
[P- 395-]
I
OBSERVATIONS OF BADEN
Maristella I observed a passlnc feire and spacious country
full of excellent faire corne fields, About eight miles be-
yond Zurich I passed by a certaine Chappellstanding by
the high way side wherein was an exceeding massy multi-
tude of dead mens bones and skuUes heaped together.
These are said to be the skultes of the Souldiers of Charles ^ muhiiudt
the great Duke of Burgundie, (whom I have before men- "/"O""-
tioaed in my notes of Zurich) and the Switzers, who not
&rre from this place fought a great battell, in which there
was great slaughter on both sides.
I departed from Maristella the next morning being
Sunday and the eight and twentieth of August about
aeven of the clocke, and came to the City of Baden com-
Ljnonly cailed ober Baden, two English miles beyond it,
Libout eight of the clocke.
My Observations of Baden. [p, jggi
THis City is of some antiquity. For it is mentioned BrJen.
by Cornelius Tacitus, that famous Historiographer
that lived in the time of Tiberius CEesar. I passed a
bridge over the river at the entrance of the City. It
standeth in that part of Switzerland which is called
Ergovia, and on the farther side of the river there lyeth
the territory of Turgovia. On one side of the towne are
certaine hilles, and on the other the river Limacus afore-
said that runneth by Zurich, on which river they doe
usually passe in boates betwixt Zurich and this City.
Againe, the City is so built that it standeth on both sides
flf the Limacus. It lyeth in the very medituUium of
Helvetia, which is the reason that the confederates doe
*lebrate all their publique assemblies that concerne the
whole state in this City. There standeth a Castell upon
the toppe of the hill which doth now suffer great dilapida-
tions. One thing I observed in the German Cities that
I could not perceive in any place of France, Savoy, Italy,
or Rhetia. Namely, the heads of boares nailed upon the Bears' keadi
^^^ dores of dwelling houses of Cities and Townes. The "mled upen
^^Lfirst that I saw in Germany were in this City of Baden. '^''
L
CORYATS CRUDITIES
For here I saw many of them hanged upon the dores both
at the entrance into the City, and in the fairest streete.
These heads are of certaine wilde boares that the people
doe kill in hunting in the forrests and woods of the coun-
try. Which hunting of wilde boares is more exercised
by the Germans then by any other Christian nation. And
it is the custome of the country whensoever they havc
killed any great boare to cut off his head, and erect it in
that manner as I have akeady spoken. The like I ob-
served afterward in many other German Cities. I was in
the fairest Church of the City which is dedicated to our
Lady, where I saw a great many pictures and images ^for
[p. 397.] this City is wholly Papisticall) and one very curious Altar
made of wainscot. On the south side of the Church
A ckapel there standeth a little Chappell, wherein I saw an exceeding
hottsimd "^^^^^^d^ of dead mens bones and skulles laid together
skuUs. ^^ ^^ west end thereof . I never saw so many dead mens
bones together in all my life before. For the number of
them was so great, that I thinke at the day of judgement
at the least ten thousand soules will challenge them.
Surely for what cause they heape together these bones (I
confesse) I know not.
The Earldm This Citie in times past was subject to a proper Earle
ofBaden. ^f jj^j. own«, who was intitled the Earle of Baden. But
about the yeare 11 80. Henry their last Earle of Baden
being dead, the Earledome was translated by the meanes
of a certaine Lady to the Earles of Kyburg. Againe,
after the death of Hortmannus the last Earle of Kyburg,
who died about the yeare 1260, there rose a great conten-
tion about this Earledome. But at last Rodolphus Earle
of Habspurg that was afterward elected King of the
Romanes, got the possession of it, and after his death it
was continually possessed by the Dukes of Austria tiU
the Councell of Constance. At what time the Helvetians
by the commandement of the Emperour Sigismund first
seised upon it, who have ever kept it from that time tiU
this day.
Thus much of the Citie of Baden.
138
THE BATHS OF BADEN
IDeparted fi-om this City about tenne of the clocke
the same Sunday, and tooke my journey directly to-
wards the Bathes which are within halfe an English mile
of the Citie. For Master Hospinian of Zurich did
earnestly counsell me to see them, as being a place very
wcrthy my observation. But there hapned sucli a sinister
accident unto me upon the way, that it was very difficult h
for me to find them out ; whereby I verified the old ■
speech, though indeed the same be properly spoken in fl
another sense ; Difficilia quie pulchra. For by reason that [p. 398.] *
I was ignorant of the Dutch language, those that met me
by the way could not understand my speeches, and so
gave me no certaine directions to finde out the place.
Whereupoo I went five Engiish miles beyond il before I ^ '"'ppy ""'-
could learne any newes of it, even to the famous Monas- ^"''
terie of Kiningsfelden neere the Citie of Brooke. Which
accident ministred occasion unto me to see certaine
memorable monuments in this foresaid Monasterie, which
I had not seene, if this occurrent had not driven me thither.
Here I hapned to insinuate my selfe into the acquaintance
of an honest sociable SchoUer, who very courteously
walked with me five miles back to the bathes. For I was
stroken with such an ardent desire to see them, that I
could not be satisfied before I had beene there, though it
were forth and backe ten miles out of my way. There-
fore I will first describe them, and after returne to the dis-
course of the Monastery againe.
My observations of the Bathes of Baden.
CErtainly this is the sweetest place for bathes that ever The iaiAi e/
I saw, by many degrees excelling our English bathes ^''"*''*»^'-
both in quantity and quaiity. The antiquity of them is
such, that (as a certaine learned man told me in the same
place) it is thought they were found out before the incar-
nation of Christ. The place is called Hinderhove, being
seated in a low bottome about a bow shot from the high
way, and about halfe an English mile westward from the
high way, and about halfe an English mile westward fiom
CORYATS CRUDITIES
the Citie of Baden. They are much the more commodi-
ously and pleasandy situate by reason of the sweete river
Limacus running by them, which divideth them into two
parts, the greater and the lesser. For those on this side
[p. 4^3.] the river are called the greater, and those beyond it the
lesser. The bathes are mstinguished asimder by severall
houses that are nothing else then Innes serving for the
entertainment of strangers. And whereas every Inne hath
Bathsnamd his proper signe, the bathes have their names from the
ofoflim^ same signes. As in one Inne which hath the signe of the
Beare, the Bathes in the same place being in number sixe
are called the Beare bathes, and so the rest of the bathes
have their denomination from their peculiar sijgnes. In
another Inne called the Simne are eight, in a pkce called
the Statehove eleven, at the signe of the Crowne seven,
at the Flower three, at the Oxe sixe, in a place called by
the same name that is the generail appellation of all the
bathes, viz. Hinderhove, seventeene, in an open court
sub dio two publike bathes, whereof one is the greatest of
them all ; in which I told seven and thirtie poore people
bathing of themselves. For these two serve ondy loc
the plebeian and poorer sort. So that the totall number
of them amountedi to threescore. None are admitted to
these bathes in the Innes but the richer sort, and such as
doe sojourne in the same. For many of the strangers
are tabled there for a certain stinted price by the weeke.
And some of the thriftier sort onely pay for their lodging,
and procure them provision from the Citie. For it is a
place of great charge to them that pay for their weekly
diet. Although the number of the bathes be so great
as I have aheady spoken: yet the originall fountaines
that feede them all are but few, no more then two, which
are so hot at the first spring thereof , that a man can hardly
endure to touch them with his bare hands, the like whereof
I wiU report hereafter of the bathes of the iower Baden
A gnat ^^ ^^ Marcjuisate. Howbeit the water of these bathes
imconrtiof themselves is of a very moderate temperature. Here
/HR^. was a great concurse of people at the time of my being
140
THE BATHS OF BADEN
there, which was at the Autumne, even the eight and
twentieth day of August ; as at the same tlme every
yeare many resort thither from Zurich, BasiU, Berne, and [p- +o+-]
most of the Helveticall Cities, and from the Citie of
Constance, &c. the strangers that are to be seene in Hin-
derhove, amounting sometimes to the number of a
thousand persons, besides some few that Ue abroad in the
country for the bathes sake. Many of those people that
lay at Hinderhove when I was there, were Gentlemen of
great worth that repaired thither from the foresaid Cities
partly for infirmities sake, and partly for meere pleasure
and recreation. Most of the private bathes are but Htde,
but very deiicate and pleasant places, being divided
asunder by certaine convenient partitions wherein are
contrived divers windowes, to the end that those in the
bathes may have rccourse to each other, and mutually
drinke together. For they reach out their drinking
glasses one to another through the windowes. The
roomes over head are lodgings for the strangers. Here
I have observed the people in the bathes feede togcther ^"■""^
upon a table that hath swimmed upon the superficies of '^gthn '
the water. Also I have noted another strange thing
amongst them that I have nof a little wondred at. Men
and women bathing themselves together naked from the
middle upward in one bathe : whereof some of the
women were wives (as I was told) and the men partly
bachelers, and partly married men, but not the husbands
of ihe same women. Yet their husbands have bene at
that time at Hinderhove, and some of them in the very
place standing hard by the bathe in their cloathes, and
bcholding their wives not onely talking and femiliarly
discoursing with other men, but also sporting after a very
pleasant and merry manner. Yea sometimes they sing
merily together but especially that sweet & most amor-
ous song of solus cum sola ; I meane another mans wife,
& another man naked upward (as I have aforesaid) in one
bath. Yet all this while the husband may not be jelous
though he be at the bathes, and seeth too much occasion
I
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
[p- 405-] of jealousie ministred unto him. For the vcrie name of
jelousie is odious in this place. But let these Germanes
and Helvetians do as they list, and observe these kind of
wanton customes as long as they will; for mine owne
part were I a married man, and meant to spend some litde
time here with my wife for solace and recreation sake,
truly I should hardly be perswaded to suffer her to bath
her selfe naked in one and the selfe same bath with one
onely bachelar or married man with her, because if she
was faire, and had an attractive countenance, she might
perhaps cornifie me. For I might have just cause to
feare lest if she went into the water with the effigies of
a male lambe characterized upon her belly, the same
might within a few howers grow to be an homed ram
(according to a merry tale that I have sometimes heard)
before she should return again to my company. Here
also I saw many passing faire yong Ladies and Gentle-
women naked in the bathes with their wooers and
favorites in the same. For at this time of the yeare
many woers come thither to solace themselves with their
beautifull mistresses. Many of these yong Ladies had
the haire of their head very curiously plaited in locks,
& they wore certaine pretty garlands upon their heads
made of fragrant and odoriferous flowers. A spectacle
exceeding amorous. A certaine learned man that I found
bathing himselfe in one of the bathes, told me that
p^JJ, , Henry Pantaleon that famous Philosopher and Phisition
^^ of Basiil, (who made his abode two or three yeares in
this place) hath written a peculiar booke of the vertue
and eflFect of these bathes. Moreover he affirmed that
they are of very soveraigne vertue for the curing of
these infirmities, viz. the tertian and quartan ague, the
itch, the cholicke and the stone; and it hath one most
rare vertue that I never heard of any bathes in all the
world. For he told me that they are of admirabie
efficacie to cure the sterilitie of women, and make those
that are barren, very fruitfuil bearers of children. A
[p. 406.] matter verified and certainly confirmed by the experience
142
THE BATHS OF BADEN H
"^f many womcn. Thc water of the bathes is mingled
with great store of brimstone and a small quantity of
alum, (as Munster affirmeth, from whom I dcrive thcse
few lines following concerning the vertue of thc bathes) Vtrtut! sf tit<
by meanes whercof it hcateth and dryeth up all noysome
and cold humours. Also it is good for those infirmities
which proceedc from the cold of the head, as the lethargic,
the apoplexic, the diseases of the eares and eyes. It con-
sumeth thc flcame, heateth and dryeth up the stomach,
helpeth the digestive faculty, openeth the obstructions of
the liver and splcene, asswageth the biting and fretting of
the guts, appeascth the paine of the members that pro-
ccedeth from cold, and to conclude, it cleanseth the skinne
from spots and freckles. But it hurtcth those thaf have
a hot and dric complexion, and such as arc wcakencd with
the consumption. But old folkes, of what sexe soever
they are, reape no benefit by these bathes. A placc that
imparteth his vertue after a partiall manncr rathcr to the
fcminine then masculine kinde. And so finally I end
this discourse of the Hclveticall bathes of Hindcrhove
wifh that elegant Elogium of Poggius the Florcntine in
praise of thc same, cven that it is a sccond Paradisc, the
seate of the Graces, the bosome of Love, and the Theater
of pleasure.
Thus much of the Hclveticall bathcs of Hinderhovc
commonly called thc bathes of Baden.
IDeparted from Hinderhove about fourc of thc clockc
in the afternoone the same Sunday, and about sixe of
ihe clock returned to the foresaid Monasfcry of Kinings- ;yj,^,„™ ^f
felden situate in thaf part of Switzerland which is called Kmngiftldtn.
Ergovia, belng accompanied with my learned associat
of the same place, whom I have before mcnfioned, who
very kindly shewed me all the principall and most notable [p. 407.]
things of the Monastery. This placc doth now belong
to the noble Citie of Berna, the Church thereof being
translated from Popery and superstitious uscs to the true
service and worship of God, where every sunday there is
CORYAT"S CRUDITIES
a sermon preached by a learned Minister. This Monas-
tery was first founded about the yeare 1408. by a certaine
The Empress Empresse called Elizabeth who was the daughter of
E&zcBeti. Meinhard Earle of Tyrol and Goricia, and Duke of Car-
inthia, a woman much f^moused amongst the historians
for finding: out the mines of salt in the Towne of Halles
near Gemunden in the higher Austria. Shee was wife
even the only wife of Albert the Emperor and King of
the Romans, unto whom shee bare (as historians doe
record) no lesse then one and twenty children. She im-
posed the name of Kiningsfelden (which is a Dutch word
compounded of two more that doe signifie the Kings-
fields) upon the foresaid Monastery, The reason of which
appellation was this. Because in the same place her
husband Albert above named was slaine betwtxt the rivers
of Arola and Risus, by his nephew John Duke of Suevia,
and afterwards buried in this Monastery. But before I
write any more of this Monastery I will relate a very
notable history which I have read in the third booke of
Diaihof Munsters Cosmographie, concerning the lamentable death
ff ' f k °^ *^^ ^^''^ Emperour in this place, hoping that it will be
^mani ' ^^^^ grateful to any reader whatsoever to reade so memor-
able a matter as I will nowreport, The foresaid John being
the Emperor^s nephew by his eldest sonne Rodolph, was
lately come to a Princely estate by the death of his fiither,
who was newly slalne in his chamber. And shortly after
he beganne to play the scape-thrift, being much given to
prodigall expences. Whereupon his grandfather restrained
him from the managing of his estate, assigning the Duke-
dome of Suevia which was now in his possession, to the
administration of some principall Stewards that should
[p. 408.] have the oversight of his lands and revenewes, till he came
to more maturity of yeares. And in the meane time
maintained him in his owne Palace in a convenient state
answerable to the degree of a young Prince. But John
beganne to murmure against his grandfether for that he
curbed hira of his former liberty, and being impatient of
thcse matters consulted with three Gentlemen more that
MONASTERY OF KININGSFELDEN
were continuall)' conversant with the Emperour (for they
were the principall Squiers of his body) how he might be
revenged upon his grandfather. The names of these were
Rodolphus de Wart, Walterus de Essenbach, and Hul-
dricus de Palma. It hapned upon the eight day of May
Anno 1308. within a short space after these Catilines had
linked themselves together in this mischievous league of
conspiracy, that the Emperour being in a merry humour
at table where these foure sate, did put certaine garlands
of roses upon his sonnes head that sate at the same table.
But these conspirators were so ferre from being merry
with fhe rest that they would not as much as eate any
thing with them, but still ruminated upon their diabolicall '^ •Habolical
plot how they might compasse it to massacre the Emperor, ''" '
which they prosecuted in this manner. The Emperor
after he had dined tooke horse to ride towards the river
Rhene, where he meant to take boate, and so to passe
downe to the City of Rheinfelden. In his journey he was
accompanied with these foure only. When they were past
a prety way in their journey, these lewd miscreants having
the good Emperour alone by himselfe, Rodolphus said to
his confederates how long shall we suffer this carkasse to
ride? and so taking the horses bridle by the hand, when
as the innocent Emperour rode on securely (as he thought)
and familiarly talked unto them accordingly to his wonted
manner, Duke John his nephew drew his poinado out of Murdtrefi/ie
his sheath, and with the same gave the Emperour the first '"P"'"''-
blow upon the necke, wherewith he strooke him downe
from his horse. Next came Huldricus de Palma, and with
his fewchon clove his head and face asunder, (6 most Cy- [p. 409.]
clopical viilaine) and the other two stabbed and grievously
hackled his body with many wounds. So this was the
most tragicall end of this worthy Emperour, that by the
historians is much commended for his heroicall vertues,
after he had reigned ten yeares, and most valiantly fought
twelve severall battels in the field, in all which he got a
glorious victory of his enemies. But the Lady Adrastia
fl meane the just vengeance of God) pursued these impious
c. c n 145 K
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
DMhJ$k9
ferfetaaUy.
HwUncns ile
Pdmds
miserahle end.
RMihhkMs de
JFartbnken
«r tie wkeeL
Waherdi
Essenbaci^s
obscure deatlu
[p. 410]
blood suckers aocording to that ei^;ant speech of the
Lyrick Poet.
Rar6 antecedentem scelestum
Deseruit pede pcena daudo.*
For all foure of them came to most lamentable ends.
Duke John that gave the first blow, after he had lived a
most uncouth and solitanr life in the desert forrests and
woods among the dens of wilde beastes, conveighed him-
sclfe at len^ into Italy, where being sent by the Pope to
the City of Pisa in Hetruria to the Emperor Henry the
seventh the successor of the foresaid Emperour Albertus,
he was condemned to perpetuall imprisonment in the habit
of an Eremitan Frier. Huldricus de Pakna that dove
the Emperours head asunder, dyed miserably in a poore
house in the City of Basil, his Castell being seised upon
by Leopold Duke of Austria, and divided amongst his
brothers, with all his other substance. Rodolphus de
Wart after he had a long time hid himselfe, was at length
detected with his man. Himselfe being tyed to a horses
taile, was after a most ifi;nominious maner drawen to exe-
cution, and all his menibers very cruelly broken with the
torment of the whede: so was his man also. And the
last of them Walterus de Essenbach, after he had lived a
sheepheards life for the space of five and thirty yeares, at
last dyed very obscurely. This worthy historie I havc
thought good to prefixe befbre my ensuing discourse of
this Monastery or Kiningsfidden by way of introduction
thereunto ; having taken occasion of this historicall narra-
tion, partly by meanes of the denomination of this place
of Kiningsfelden, and partly for that thc Emperors body
was buried therc by his forcsaid wifis; Who erectcd the
Monastery for that purpose, and for a perpctuall monu-
ment of that most execrablc villany conunitted by those
foure cut-throates above named, even in the yeare 1308.
beforc mentioned. And again the next yeare foUowing
it was translated thcrchcncc to the City of Spira, whcrc it
*Hon. lib. 3. Ourmi. Od. 2.
146
MONASTERY OF KININGSFELDEN
was intombed with a most mournefuU solemnity upon the
fourth day of September, next to his father Rodolphus
Habspurgensis the Emperour, as I will hereaftcr report in
my Observations of Spira. Therefore I will now returne
againe to the foresaid Monastery. The abovesaid Em-
presse assigned this place for the habitation of Monks of Menii
the femily of St. Bennet, and Nunnes of the order of St. **"*'
Clara. Who although they lived apart in severall and
distinct roomes of ihe Monastery,yet it is to be conjectured
that as fire and flaxe, when they meete together, doe yeeld
a flame ; so these perhaps might sometimes have some
furtive conversation in hugger mugger si non castfe, tamen
caute. A thing that hath eftsoones hapned in such Mon-
astcries as are the receptacles of those promiscuous
convents of both sexes Monks and Nuns. The bodies
of divers royall persons were buried in this Monastery,
besides the Emperour Albert whom I have akeady men-
tiooed. Whereof the principall was the foresaid Empresse
Elizabeth foundresse of the house. Here also was buried '^"J"'' ^"""^
AgBes her owne daughter by the foresaid Albert, and the "" ,
wife of Andrew King of Hungarie, who after the death of
her husband having renounced the world, and consecrated
her seife whoUy to a reiigious IJfe, spent the remainder of
her daies, even eight and forty yeares in the citie of Brooke
neare adjoyning to this Monastery, where at last shee was
buried as I have already said. Likewise here was buryed
that famous Leopold the last of that name Duke of
Austria, surnamed gloria or decus miiitise, the glory of the [p- 4"]
miiitary discipline ; who was nephew to the Emperour
Albert before mentioned, and fourth sonne of Aibert
surnamed the wise, who intitled himseife the first Exarch
of Austria.
This Leopoid about the yeare 1385. conduded a peace Ltopeld Uzt
betwixt the house of Austria and the Confederates of \, "J^
1
Switzerland, with an intent to aboUsh aU manner of con-
tention betwixt them. But shortly after this the hot
broiles of wars began more fierceiy by reason of certain
tumuits that rose betwixt the Prefects of the country and
CORYATS CRUDrriES
the Citizens of Liiceme : so that many of the oonfederate
cities rose in armes against the Duke, who both assaulted
and sacked certaine townes that the house of Austria laid
daim imto. Whereupon the adverse armies confronting
each other in the field, the Confederates surprised the
Dukes forces in the yeare 1386. Againe the same yeare
there was a fresh truce concluded betwixt them, which being
shortly after violated, they mustred up their forces once
more on both sides that same yeare, and joyned battell
againe the second time neare to the towne of Sempach
in Switzerland, the Duke having adjoined unto him the
strength of many German Peeres and noble Personages,
who aided him with the best power they were able. The
Confederates understanding that the Dvdce was approached
^t^^j neare to Sempach aforesaid, met him in a certaine imeven
s^n% Oe P^^ ^^ ^^^ 8^^^ disadvantage, where he & the rest oF his
Stoiss. Nobles being well horsed, were constrained to alisht Irom
their horses, and abandon them. For they comd stand
them in no steed in that place, & so at length they came
to hand strokes, & fought a most vehement skirmish on
both sides. But the Duke & the Nobles being tired out
with the extreme heat of the Sunne, & their long fight,
were forced to give place to their enemies, so that 3iey
retired themselves backe toward their horses, but before
they could come to them, they were so eagerly pursued
p. 412.] by the Switzers, that they were almost all slaine in that
confiict : Duke Leopold himselfe lost his life ; Otto, the
Marquesse of Hochberg, John Earle of Zollern, and many
other Nobles of inferiour degree. After that the bodie of
the Duke and of threescore of his Nobles were brought to
this Monastery, where they were all buried. The monu-
ment of the Duke standeth in the bodie of the Church,
being indosed within an yron grate, where there is written
this Dutch Epitaph following, which my scholasticall com-
panion abovesaid copied out for me, and here I have set
downe the very same words, word for word, that he
delivered me, even these.
143
MONASTERY OF KININGSFELDEN
In disem grab ligend von unseren hochgeboren hershafft T'^ DMs
w>n OsteryA, die Edlen Frauwen und herren. epitaph.
Die hernach geschriben stond. Zum erstenfrauw Eliza-
beta geborne von Kerndten Kunigs Albrects von Rome
gemachel, der of der Hofstat verlor syn leben. Demnach
Agnes Iro dochter wylund ICinigin in Ungern. Ferner
siuch unser gnediger Herr Herzog Lupold der Zu Sem-
pach vorlor synleben. 1386.
Hertzog Lupold der Alt, und frauw Catrina syn
gemachall geborne von Saphoy. Un frauw Catrina L-o
tochter Herzogin von Lessin. Herzog Heinrich und fro
Elizabeta syn gemachel geborne von Vimburg.
Herzog Frioerich Kunig Friderichs der von Rome.
Fro ECzabeta Herzog in von Luttringen.
Frauw Gutta Grauin von Ottingen Deren gedencken [p. 413.]
thimd.
The same in English.
In this grave are buried of our most excellent house Theepitapk
jf Austria, these Noble Ladies and Lords. Eng&iM.
First Lady Elizabeth of Kemdten, wife of Albertus
King of the Romanes, which was slaine in his Palace.
Next Agnes their daughter, sometimes Queene of
Himgarie.
Item, our gracious Lord Leopold that lost his life at
Sempach. 1386.
Duke Leopold the old, & Lady Katharina of Savoy his
wife, and Lady Katharina their daughter, Dutchesse of
Lessin.
Also Henry and Ladie Elizabeth of Virnburg his
wife.
Duke Fredericke sonne of Fredericke King of Romc.
Lady Elizabeth Dutchesse of Lorraine.
Lasdy Lady Gutta Countesse of Ottingen, whom forget
tiot in your praiers.
Morover in the Quire of the same Church I saw the
Dukes picture made in his armour upon the wall with
fburteene of his Peeres painted in armes also on the right
149
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
hand of hiiri) and thirteene more on the left hand. Besides
thev shewed me a certaine long wooden chest in a high
gallery) which the foresaid Diike filled up with halters,
wherewith he meant to have hanged the noblest Captaines
and other worthjr persons of the Confederates. I observed
a thing in the Cloyster of this Monastery that moved no
small commiseration in me : which by reason of the rare-
nesse of the example I will not let passe unmentioned.
An exampk of ^y companion shewed me a certain old man walking alone
hMmaujratuj. ^^ himselfe, who having beene from his youth tiU within
these late yeares, a learned man of singular gifts, & a most
excellent Schollar, was so much altred now m his decrepit
[p. 414.] age, that he had not only lost his memory, being imable to
remember his owne name, (an accident that I have read
hath hapned heretofore to two famous Orators, whcreof
the one was Messala Corvinus, a noble Gentleman of
Rome : the other George Trapezuntius, a learned Orator
of Greece, & principall Secretary to one of the later Popes)
but also was come to that most miserable state, that he
could not discharge the necessaries of nature after that
civill and decent manner as other people do, but after a
most loathsome & beastly fashion. Truly this man was a
most notable example to put every learned man in mind of
his humane frailty, and to teach many proud princocke
scholars that are pu£Fed up with the opinion of their
learning to puU downe the high sailes of their lofty spirits,
and to keepe the golden meane in the levell of their
thoughts, since God is able to make the learnedest and
wisest man in the world not only a child againe in his
declining yeares, but also such a kind of odious creature
by depnving him of the use of reason, and the light of
understanding, as doth equal the unreasonable beastes of
the field in a brutish filthmesse.
Thus much of the Monastery of Kiningsfelden.
FRom this Monastery I tooke my Journey to the city
of Brooke, being about foure furlongs beyond it,
whither I came about 8 of the clocke in the evening,
150
OBSERVATIONS OF RHEINFELDEN
something appkuding my selfe in a manner, and congratu-
lating my owne good fortune & successe for that experience
■which I had gotten the same day by the sight of the citie
of Baden, the Bathes of Hinderhove, & the noble Monas-
tery of Kinings-felden. This daies journey was but small,
no more then sixe English miles.
Of this citie I can say but Uttle, because I came in late,
and went away betime in the morning, Onely I under-
stood that it is all Protestant, consenting with thc
Tigurines in religion. Here I found the kindest host
that I had in my whole voyage out of England.
I departed from Brooke about sixe of the docke in the [p. +15.]
morning the nine & twentieth of August being Munday,
and came about seven of the clocke in the evening to the
Citie of Rheinfelden, this daies jouriiey being twenty Rhcinfelde
English miles. I can say very little of this Citie, because
I made my aboad there but a night, and departed there-
hence betime the next morning, even about sixe of the
clocke ; onely one short note I will give of it, and no
more : That the ancient Earledome of Rheinfelden derived
his denomination from this citie, a famous Prince (of whom
I have often read,) being the last Earle thereor, namely
Rodolphus Duke of Suevia, unto whom Pope Gregory the
seventh sent a golden crowne when he warred against the
Emperour Henry the fourth, with this memorable (that I
may not say prophane) inscription.
Petra dedit Petro, Petrus diadema Rodolpho.
I observed that it professed the Popish religion, and that
it is sweetly watered by the Rhene. About the townes
end a little before I entred the Citie, I observed a great ^ greai
gallows supported with three great piilars of free stone, S^""""-
neere unto which there was a wheele that served tbr the
execution of murderers, the like whereof I have often
seene in France (as I have before mentioned) and many
such in divers other places of Switzerland,
I departed from Rheinfelden about sixe of the clocke
the next morning being Tuesday, and the thirtieth day of
I
k
CORYATS CRUDITIES
August, and came to Basil, sixe English miles beyond it,
about nine of the clocke. In this space I observed a great
multitude of verie faire Vineyards planted on both sides
of the Rhene.
[p. 416.] My Observations of Basil, in Latine Basilea.
Basli. nr^His noble citie is situate in that most fertile territorie
X of Sungovia heretofore called Sequania, bordering
upon the confines of Switzerland, which tnough it standem
not in the province of Helvetia, yet it is reputed one of
the Helvetical Cities, both because it confineth upon the
frontires of the country, and also for that it was incor-
porated into the confederation in the yeare 1501, since
which time it hath continually maintained her liberty
maugre all her enemies, and embraceth that popular
government that the other cities doe. Who was the first
founder of it I cannot certainly finde. For I have not
read it in any author. But I conjecture that it began to
be built shortly after the dilapidations and ruines of the
Jugusta ancient Citie of *Augusta Rauracorum, which was built
Rauracorum. ^^^ fmc from this Citie by the same noble Roman Gentle-
man that was the founder of the Citie of Lyons, Munatius
Plancus, whom I have before mentioned. The ruines of
which Citie are shewed at this day as notable monuments
of the antiquitie and beautie thereof, when it flourished in
ancient times. From this Citie Augusta was Basil also
heretofore called Augusta Rauracorum. Truly it is very
likely that the founders of this Citie of Basil first derived
much of the matter for the founding and beautifying of
their Citie from the foresaid Augusta. In regard whereof
the Citizens of Basil have very lately erected a most
beautifull statue of the foresaid Munatius Plancus made
of wood in his military ornaments, which I saw placed
upon a wooden pillar in the court of their Senate house,
and honored with a learned Elogium. Munster proveth
out of the thirtieth booke of the histories of Ammianus
* This City or at the least the Rudera thereof now remaining are at
this day called Augst.
15*
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
Marcellinus that most learned souldier that served under [p. 417.]
the Emperour Julian the Apostate, that Basil was a
flourishing and famous Citie in the time of those coUeague
Emperours Gratian and Valentinian about 382 yeares after
Christes incarnation. As for the name of the Citie the ^CI^^^SJ "f
authors doe something differ. For some will have it called "' '
Basilea quasi Pasilea, that is, a place of passage, because
there was a common passage from one banke to the other
in boats upon the river Rhene, before the bridge was built
for the use of the Citie. But Munster saith that Ammi-
anus aforesaid draweth the etymologie of it from the
Greeke word ffuffiXda which signifieth a kingdome, as
being a royall and kingly Citie fit for the residence of a
Kings court. Surely it is exceeding sweetly situate,
having on onc side of the Rhene a pleasant plaine that
yeeldeth great abundance of wine and corne, but especially
corne ; on the other side hils, in number three, whereon
one part of the Citie standeth. Also the ayre of this T»"^'i^"^^'
Citie is esteemed as sweet and comfortable as in any City ""^"
o( the whole world, as a certaine English Gentleman told
me that soiourned in the University for learning sake at
the time 01 my being there, who affirmed that it was the
most delectable place for ayre that ever he lived in.
Againe, it is as finely watered as ever I saw Citie, partly
with goodly rivers, and partly with pleasant springs or
fountaines that doe incessantly flow out of delicare con-
duits. The rivers are these, the Rhene, the Byrsa and
the Wiesa. The Rhene divideth the Citie in the middest,
and maketh two several Cities, the greater and the lesser
Basil : the greater being on the farther side of the Rhene
upon the foresaid hils, which Citie was esteemed heretofore
a part of the territory of the Sequani, and a member of the
French Kings dominion ; the lesser on the other side upon
thc plaine, which was ever reputed part of Germany. But
at this day both the Cities are accounted within the com-
passe of the German precincts. But because I now
speake of the division into two parts by meanes of the [p. 418.]
river Rhene running betwixt them, I will mention a thing
CORYATS CRUDITIES
runto thee (gentle reader) out o{ my poore experience in
travell, that if thou meaiiest to see these countries thy
selfe, thou maiest hereafter observe this particular matter
as well as I my selfe have done ah^eadie. The ancient
Germanes and Helvetians observed this rule In former
times at the founding of their Cities, that when they laid
the foundation of any Citie hard by any famous river, they
J« ancifnt built one part of it on one banke of the same river, and
caitsm in ^^^ other on the opposite banke. Which thine I have
OHiidmecitui. . , '' , it i . >i ■ ■
seene with mme owne eyes in three HelveticaiJ aties,
namely, in Zurich situate by the foresaid Limacus, Baden
by the same river, and this citie of Basil by the Rhene ;
and the Hke I have heard is to be seene in two more
Helvetian Cities, namely Lucerne upon the river Ursula,
and Solodure upon the Arola. After the same manner
also the Citie of Lyons in France is built upon the rivers
of Arar and Rhodanus, Paris upon the Sequana, the City
of Vicenza in Italy upon the Bacchilio, and Verona upon
the Athesis. But the Cities of the other parts of Germany
are not built thus, though they stand by goodly rivers ;
as Heidelberg by the Neccar, Mentz & Colen by the
Rhene, Nimmighen by the Wahahs, Confluence by the
Mosella and Rhene &c. every one of them standing wholy
upon one banke. But to returne againe to the Rhene by
this Cltie of Basil, these two Cities, the greater and the
lesser Basil are united and conjoyned together by a
jt menit woodden bridge made over the river, which bridge is a
oruigt. ygi^ [j^gg ^^(j meane thing, being corapacted together of
many rough plankes and uneven peeces of timber that
hang something loose, so that a stranger being un-
acquainted with the way will be afraid to ride over it.
Yet by reason that it is of a convenient breadth, both
horses and carts do passe securely too and fro that way.
[p. 419,] I wondred to see so base a bridge belonging to so faire a
Citie. But a learned Gentleman of the University yeelded
A gpod reaim a good reason to me for the same. For he tolde me that
fir lit lame. ^jjg Citizens are afi-aid of the Duke of Savoies assauJtJng
of them, who if he should suddenly invade them, the lesscr
Jiyr
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
Citie in the plaine he may perhaps take by force of armes,
but they will prevent him from comming to the greater
Citie on the hils by taking up the bridge, which they can
doe in a moment, by reason that the boords do so loosely h
hang together ; wheras if it were a strong bridge, they H
could not dissolve it with so great exp>edition. I will H
speake something aiso of the abovenamed Rivers Byrsa
and Wiesa. These are much inferiour to the Rhene in
greatnesse, but very commodious to the Citie. For the
Byrsa doth cary pretie boats wherein are brought many "^^ *'"'■
" eecessanes to the Citie, as much timber that serveth for ^y""-
he building of their houses, and wood for fuell to make
fire in their chimneies. This river springeth out of the
iamous mountaine Jura, mentioned by CtEsar that divideth
the Helvetians ftom the Sequani, distant about one daies
journey from the city. The place where it rlseth being
inhabited by French men, and passing well wooded, which
is the reason that the river doth communicate such store
of Wood to the Citie. The other river Wiesa springeth Tie River
out of a contrary place, out of the blacke wood which is *''"<'■
caUed in Latine nigra Sylva, being a part of that famous
wood Hercinia mentioned by Ciesar. This river im-
parteth the same commodities to the Citie that the Byrsa
doth and one more. For it yeeldeth great store of fish,
especially trouts. As for the fountaines or publicke con-
duits of the Citie before mentioned, they are exceeding
delectable & pleasant to behold. For whereas there are
many market places in the citie, these conduits are erected
in every several market place, which doe continually spout
out water most pleasantly, as those of the citie of Brixia in
Lombardie which I have before spoken of, but these are
both fkirer & pleasanter then the Brixian conduits ; a [p. +10.]
commodity that ministreth no small ornanient to the citie.
For they are in number many, and very curiously built.
Each of these two cities is walled about with very ancient "^^ antieat
and faire walles of a convenient hight, adorned with battle-
in ments that doe make a beautifijU shew, especially those on
■■■itfae North side of the greater Basil, being built upon the
L
CORYATS CRUDITIES
very brinke of the banke of the Rhene. In the wals of
both Cities are seven gates, five in the greater Citie, and
two in the lesser. Upon the outward wal of the gatehouse
of one of these foresaid gates, even the same gate where
I entred the greater Citie after I had passed tfae foresaid
bridge, I saw the picture of an exceedin^ huge Gigantean
Switzer, advanceci on horse-backe on me nght hand of
the gate. He is painted in his armour like a martiail
Captaine with his banner displaied in his hand, wherein
is represented a stafFe which is the armes of Basil. He is
AgMutSwlss, pourtraied something lesse then those monstrous kinde of
Giants that are written of in ancient histories, yet much
greater (in mjr opinion) then the greatest man tlmt is now
to be found in the whole world. It is reported by the
Citizens that there was heretofore a certaine Switzer of a
bignesse correspondent to this picture. But I could finde
no man that could tell me the true historicail narration
of the matter, though I was very inquisitive of many.
The streets of the Citie are very iaire, and neatly kept : the
private buildings beautifull, many of them being of a
goodly height, foure stories high, and for the most part
buift with timber.
I was at their Councell or Senate house, which is likc to
be a very sumptuous building when it is once finished.
For it was not throughly ended when I was there. Here
I saw the statue of Munatius Plancus of whom I have
before written.
The Churches of the citie are in number eight, whereof
foure are cailed Parish Churches, and the other foure
TheCatkidral Deacons Churches. The Cathedrall Church is dedicated
to our Lady, and standeth in the greater City. A building
[p. 421.] of singular magnificence and beauty, the sight whereof
and that passing variety of worthy monuments in the same
gave me such true content, that I must needs say I preferre
it before the fairest Church I saw in Germany, though the
Cathedral Churches of Strasbourg, Spires, Wormes,
Mentz, and Colen be greater ; yet certainly for curiosity
of architecture and exceeding decent keeping, the best of
156
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
these is inferiour to this: only I except a part of the
Church of Strasbourg, namelv the tower, which I will
hereafter describe; for I attribute so much to the same,
that I give the superiority unto it not onlv of all those
towers that I saw in mjr whole voyage, but also of all other
towers whatsoever in Christendome, as I have heard verv
learned and famous travellers report that have seene both
that and the fairest towers of Europe. But to returne to
this glorious and most elegant Church of Basil the very
Queene of all the German Churches that I saw, according The qunn of
as I have before intitled our Lady Church at Amiens of ^f^^
the French Churches; truly I extoll it so highly that I
esteeme it the most beautifull Protestant Churoi that ever
I saw, saving our two in London of Paules and West-
minster, which doe very little excell this in beauty (though
something in greatnesse) if any thing at all. The body
of it is garnished with two rowes of goodly pillars, sixe
in a side. Also it is beautified with a very faire paire of
Organs that are decked with passing curious wainscot
worke, and a very sumptuous Pulpit adomed with a most
excellent peece of workemanship of wainscot also. Like-
wise at tne West end of the body there are two very
stately rowes of seates made of wainscot with very exquis-
ite workemanship, and most artificiall devices in the same.
Over the which are raised three curious borders, in the
middle whereof which is advanced to a very convenient
heigth, this impresse or inscription is written in golden InscrifHm
letters upon a blacke ground. wertkistau.
D. S. (p. 422.]
In Honorem
Summi Basiliensis
Magistratus
Verae religionis assertoris,
Juris justitiaeque defensoris,
quo ipsam loco
In Dei conspectu gratabunda
suspicit Ecclesia,
i$7
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Eundem ipsi pia devotaque
observantii,
Summiss^ consecrare
volvit.
kunA trimly Truly I observed every thing in the body of this Church
P^* disposed in such a comely order, and so trimly kept, that
it did even tickle my soide with spirituall joy to behold
the same, and so I thinke it will every zealous and godly
Protestant, in so much that I did even congratulate and
applaude the religious industry of the Basihans. And I
am perswaded that one godly prayer pronounced in this
Church by a penitent and contrite-hearted Christian in
the holy Congregation of the citizens, to the omnipotent
Jehovah through the only mediation of his sonne Jesus
Christ, is of more efiicacy, and doth sooner penetrate into
the eares of the Lord, then a centurie yea a whole myriad
of Ave Maries mumbled out upon beads in that super-
stitious manner as I have often seene at the glittering
Altars of the Popish Churches. The Quire is very
decently graced with many faire pillars, and the frontispice
thereof marvailously adorned with gilt scutchins and armes
of divers royal and Princely Potentates. On the left hand
of the body of the Chwch as you enter into the Quire, I
mb of saw the Sepulcher of that thrise-famous Erasmus Rotero-
wwiw. damus that Phoenix of Christendome, and well deserving
man of the common-weale of learning, who was so
. 423.] delighted with the noble City of Basil, that he studied
here many yeares together, being a great benefactor to the
City as I wil hereafter mention, and at last finished his life
in the same. His body lieth interred under a flat stone,
neare to the which is erected a beautifuU pillar of red
marble about three yardes high (according to my estima-
tion) two foot thicke, and an ell broad, at the toppe
whereof the eflSgies of his face is expressed, with this
word Terminus (by which impresse I thinke is meant that
death is the end of all things) written under it in golden
letters: and imder the same this epitaph cut in golden
letters also.
158
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
Christo Servatori S. EpUapkof
Des. Erasmo Roterodamo Eramm.
viro omnibus modis Maximo, cujus
incomparabilem in omni discipUnarum
genere eruditionem pari conjunctam
prudenti^ posteri & admirabuntur) et
prsedicabunt : Bonifacius Amerbach-
lus, Hier. Frobenius, Nic. Episcopius
hsredes, & nimcupati suprems suas
volimtatis vindices, Patrono optimo,
non memoris (quam immortalem sibi
editis lucubrationibus comparavit, iis
tantisper dum orbis terrarum stabit,
supernituro, ac eruditis ubique gen-
tium colloquuturo) sed corporis
mortalis, quo reconditum sit, ergd,
hoc saxum posuere. Mortuus est
IIII. Id. Jul. Jam septuagenarius.
An. ^ Cnristo nato
M.D.xxxvi.
In the North side of the Quire I observed the monu- [p. 424.]
ment of the Empresse Anna, upon the which her image
is made at length with her young sonne Charles hard by
her within an yron grate, and in the wall adjoyning I read
this epitaph.
D. O. M. S. Epiu^hoftke
Annse Augustac Empress
Burchardi Comitis Hoven- ^***'
burgensis filiae, Rodolphi
I. fmperatoris Augusti, Comitis
Habspurgensis, 8«:. Conjugi, &
foBCundae parenti Austriae Prin-
cipum, Sereniss. Alberti. i. Imper. matri,
unk cum Carolo *filioIo, Anno
*Manster saith in the life of Rodolphus HabspurgensiSy that shee
had another sonne buried with her, namely Hartmannus that was
drowned in the river Rhene.
159
CORYATS CRUDITIES
1289. 19. Martii hk sepultae.
S. P. Q. Basiliensis, quum sacram
hanc s^em nitori suo pristino
restituendam curaret, hono-
ris ergo, circitfer 316. post exequias Annos,
H. M. L. P.
The clmurs, At the East end of the Church are two faire Cloisters,
wherein I observed a little common-weale of worthy
monuments, whereof some are auncient and some new.
Certainly I never saw so many epitaphs together in one
Church in all my life. For most of those that have beene
erected of late yeares, being inserted into the walles of the
Cloyster round about, are beautified both with elegant
epitaphs, and with prety little turned pillars of marble,
or other faire kinde of stones, garnished with gilt scutchins,
armes, and such like curious workes. In one of these
Cloysters I saw these three epitaphs together, side by side,
in one and the selfe same row, written in certaine con-
venient stones upon the wall, and under the same as many
severall flat tomb-stones, under which the bodies of those
famous men are interred that are nominated in the same
epitaphs : The first of them was this.
Tkefirst
epitaph in ihe
chnsters.
[P- 4*S-]
Dum Jacobum Meierum
hujus indytae urbis
Consulem prudentis-
simum, consultissimum-
que, pietatis sanae
cultorem, ac promo-
torem primarium,
omnis honestatis,
quod in ipso fuit
instauratorem dili-
gentissimum, lapis
subjectus contegit.
Anno Salutis M. D. X X X I I. F. F.
160
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
The second is this.
D. lo. Oecolampadius Tke siMd
professione Theolo- ^^^ '
gus, trium linguarum
peritissimus, author
Evangelicae doctri-
nse in hac urbe pri-
mus, & templi hujus
verus Epus. Ut doc-
trin^ sic vitse sanc-
timoniH poUentissi-
mus, sub breve saxum
hoc reconditus jacet.*
The third this.
Domino Simoni GrynaBO TkeMrd
ahnae hujus Academiae ^ ^^ *
rectori, & laude, &
memorii sempiterna
ob linguarum Latinse
Gracae & Hebraicae
peritiam, omnisque
phin« ad miraculum us-
que cognitionem, ob
Theolofifiae verae sci- r^ ^^^fi
cntiam^& usum digno, ^ ^^'^
monumentmn hoc dicatum est.
That which is omitted about the yeare of his death, I
will add my selfe. He dyed Anno 1539. In one part of
the other Cloyster I saw these two epitaphs something
neare together, the one of that fkmous man Pantaleon
written in golden letters in a faire stone, inserted into the
wall directiy over his tombe.
* Here he hath not expressed the yeare of his death, which was 1531.
thortl/ after Zuinglios was slaine in Switzerland.
caii. 161 L
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Efitapk to Trinnno
PMtMim. Henrici Pantaleonis
Basil. Philos. et Medici Epita.
Disce tuam sortem quiomque hsec pelligis ; ista
exuviae recubant Pantaleonis humo.
Scin cujus, quem nec sacrse latuere Camcense,
qui potis in numeriun cosere dulce melos.
Clinicus, & rerum naturse consaus omnis,
doctus & in fastos didere gesta patrum.
Testis erit sacris physicis operata juventus,
regia qu^ Rhenus mcenia lambit aquis.
Testis erit generosa armis quam vindice penna
claravit scriptis Teutonis ora suis
Testis honos vivax, amplissima jura palati
queis auxit Comitem Maxmiliana manus.
Longa aevi series, trieteris & hebdomas annum
bis quina, adversis intemerata malis.
Lustra novem physice, thalamus dena unus & idem
vendicat, & sena bis quoque prole beat.
Sic famae, sic naturae sat vixit, & nujus
5)ert8esus vitae cessit in aetheream.
xxii. M. viii. d. xxii. an. Ch. clo. lo.
xcv. Martii iii.
The other of that learned Civilian Franciscus Hoto-
mannus, which was erected above his tombe also, and
written in golden letters with a deaths-head, and an houre-
glasse over it.
[p. 427.] Trinuno S.
Franciscus Hotomannus
ex ant. & nob.
Bfitspk to Hotomannorum iamil. apud Siles.
^''^*^ German. pop.
Lutetiae Par. natus,
Pius integerque juris justitiaeque
Antistes,
Jus C. Rom. Scrip. illustr.
163
Hotman.
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
Valent. Cavar. & Avarid Bitur. */^ *
ann. mult. docuit: %^^
De 8um. reipub. consultus
sap. respon.
Legation. German.
Sub Car. ix. Franc. Reg.
prosper^ gest.
Patriam ob civil. bell.
spont. linqu.
In Germ. ceu patr. alt.
concess.
Principib. ob scient. ac prob.
acceptiss.
Basileae Ra\iracorum
pub. damno luctuque
plac. fato funct.
B. A. L X V. M. V. D. X X.
G A. c I D. I D. XC. P. id. Feb.
lo. F. amicique Basilese p.
Againe under the same I read this written upon a flat
stone that covereth his bones.
Fran. Hotomanni
L C.
Mortales exuvias
Tantisper asservandas,
dum
Christo jubente
Immortales exurgant, [p. 428.]
Amici
Sub hoc saxo
deposuere.
Loco honoris ergd
Ab aedis curatonb.
liberal. concesso.
vix. an. bciii. Men. v. d. xx.
ob. prid. id Febr.
ann.
c I 3. \ 0. X C.
163
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Bfitapklo
Frams
Epitaph to
Ccflius
Secutulus
Curio,
[P- 4*9-]
Againe upon the same stone these verses are written.
Gallia progenuit, servat Bosilea sepultum,
Interitus expers nomen ubiqiie viget.
Hunc pietas tumulum, tumuliun himc Astrea tuentur,
Astrea cultorem sutun,
Cultoremque sutun pietas post fata tuetur
Adversa iata huic seculo.
£t si desertas gemebimda voce queruntur
Cultore privatas suo:
Quin reditum ad superos infestH voce minantur,
Ni talis exemplum viri
Hujus tu inspector tumuli, pietate sequaris,
Ni nos sequamur posteri.
Hoc ipse h tmnulo clamat post fata superstes,
Hoc ips^ mandat posthiunis.
In another part of the same Cloyster I saw these three
epitaphs together written in golden letters in the wall,
with armes and scutchins over them, directly over the
bodies of the persons themselves.
The first of that famous Ccelius Secundus Curio, of
whom I have before spoken in my description of Turin.
Hospes have, & disce
Non Coelius heic,
Sed Ccelii <rw/jLa, imo oTJ/jLa
Spiritum Christus habet.
Caetera nomen
verae pietatis,
humanitatis,
singularis eruditionis,
prudentiae,
insignisque constantiae,
quum a-Sifia in*
tunc verh erit
* The Word which is herc wanting was Hebrcw, which (I confesse)
I omitted, by reason that I am ignorant of the Language.
164
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
Coelius Secundus Curio.
hospes si dididsti,
vale
Reliquit aet. su. an. Ixvii.
Sal. cb. Id. Lxix.
A. D. vui. K. L. D. C. B.
The second of one of his sonnes.
Leoni Epitaph to Hs
Curioni Ccelii S. C. F. '**•
Religionis purioris causi
cum parentib. exuli.
nobili, integro,
sincero
Peregrinationibus,
Captivit. laboribus
attrito.
An. Ch. M. D. C. I. die Octo. vi.
seta. suse. an. bcv.
extincto
Conjux & liberi
amoris & pie-
tatis ergd
H. M. P.
The third.
Ccelius Secundus Curio Augus- Tketkird
tino filio dulciss. sanc- epitapk.
tissque polyhistori ac fa-
cundo Basil. Scholse Rhe- [p. 430.]
tori. cujus corpus helc cum
III. sororib. lectiss. jacet,
spiritus cum Christo : no-
men immortal. lib. scriptis
vivit in terris. socio &
hcerede studiorum or-
batus, d\un reviviscit po.
165
CORYAT S CRUDITIES
vixit ann. xxiix.
obiit an. Do. clo. lo. Ixvii.
die xxiiii.
Oct.
Hujus ad exemplum juvenes florentibus annis
vivcre rith Deo discite, riti mori.
Many notable Many other notable epitaphes I saw there, which the
epitaph. shortnesse of my aboade in Basil and the urgent occasions
of calling me away therehence would not permit me to
write out, as of Hierom Frobenius, and Michael Isingrius,
two femous printers of the citie, &c. But what is now
wanting, I hope shall be hereafter supplied ; for by Gods
grace I will one day see Basil againe.
But one most elegant epitaph I will adde, which is to be
found in this citie, and very memorable both for the fame
of the person upon whome it was made, and the worthi-
nesse or the Author that composed it. There was given
me by a learned man, a student of the Universitie (of
whome I was inquisitive for the antiquities of the citie)
this excellent epitaph which he told me is extant in a
Church of the lesser Basil beyond the Rhene that belonged
once to the Carthusian Monkes, made upon the death of
that famous Civilian Ludovicus Pontanus a Roman borne,
who died of the plague in this citie of Basil, anno 1439.
at the time of the generall Councell celebrated here : the
author hereof was jSEneas Sylvius who was afterward
Bishop of Rome (as I have before written) by the name
[p. 431-] of Pius Secundus, the learnedest Pope that hath beene
these thousand yeares. The Epitaph is this.
BpitapJkiy Si mille aut totidem rapuisses usque virorum
-^«f^ Pestis, adhuc poteram parcere saeva tibi.
SyMMs. Vivens quo nusquam fuerat prajstantior alter,
Extinctum potiiis reddis iniqua lues.
Quem fletis leges, quem fletis jura, sacrique
Nunc Canones: obiit, quem coluistis, herus.
Hic vos ornarat, vestras, ubicunque fuerunt,
Solverat ambages : nunc sine voce jacet.
x66
1
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
Heu voces, heu verba viri divina, memorque
Ingenium : quo vis nunc tua multa loco est?
Heu Romane jaces, quo non Romanior ullus
Ante fuit, quo nec (oTth futurus erit.
Te pater, & charus retur mod6 vivere frater,
Heu quantos gemitus ille vel ille dabit?
Te Roma atque omnis plorabit Etruria, teque
Tota petet lachrymis Itaia terra pjis.
Te nunc Concilium, te nunc ululatibus unum
Ipsa quoque extinctum queritat Ecclesia. , p^^^H
Heu vanas hominum mentes, heu pectora cceca, ^H^^^I
Cuique dies certum est fata dedisse suos. ^^^^^^
PEt nos, cum superi statuent, veniemus ad illos,
Nemo pariim vixit, cui bona vita fiiit.
I was in their theological schoole which is at the south Theohpeal
corner of the church, unto the which you cannot passe but ''^'"'''/^'ii''-
through the Quire. It is a very decent and comely place,
but inferiour to our Divinity schoole of Oxford. At the
upper end is a seate for the Divlnity reader to sitte in ;
and all the middle from one end to the other is fiUed up
with very convenient seates for the hearers, The walles
are decked with Hebrew, Greeke, LaCine, and Dutch
sentences out of the Scriptures, and with the testimonies
of those famous men of our reformed religion that have
been heretofore Readers in that place, as of Andreas
Carolostadius. &c.
In this schoole I heard Amandus Polanus a Polensdorf, [p. 432,]
that femous Divine & learned Writer reade a divinity
lecture, but his audience at that time was very small : I
observed a certaine forme of teaching at this lecture which jf liivmiy
I never noted in any place before that time. For he did ittture.
often repeat every principall sentence of note, a matter
very avaylable for the hearers memory : not used by any
publike professour of Oxford. The like custome I have
heard is observed by the professours of many other Dutch
Universities, especially by those of Leyden in Holland.
In this roome also it was my good fortune not only to sec,
167
CORYATS CRUDITIES
but also to converse with in familiar discoiirse (to my
6'eat joy & comfort) that admirable ornament of this
niversity Joannes Jacobus Grynaeus the sonne of the fore-
^^^ said Simon Grynaeus whose Epitaph I have above written.
fjMMs. ^ ^^ ^£ ^^^ speciall marke that he may be well called
a second Oecolampadius, that is, a glittering lampe of
Gods House. For he is a man famoused over most of
the Westerne Universities of Christendome for his learned
lucubrations and most solid workes of Divinity, which are
divulged to the world to the great benefit of Christes
Church. As the Ecclesiasticall history of Eusebius, Ruf-
finus, Socrates, Theodoret he hath illustrated with a learned
Chronographie. Also the workes of Ireneus Bishop of
LyonSy with arg^uments and observations of divers reading.
An epitome of the Bible containing the arguments of the
bookes and chapters of the olde Testament. A short
interpretation of the psahnes 133. iio. 19. Also he hath
written a commentary upon the Prophets Ha^eus,
Hababuc & Malachie : a brief Chronology of the £van-
Hisbooks. gelicall history: A Sciojg^raphie of sacred Theologie
according to the three formes of methode, synthesis,
analysis, and definition. Unto the which he hath added
threescore Theses contayning the principall heads of our
religion. Likewise he hath written a synopsis of the
[p. 433.] history of man. And two hundred several Theses dis-
puted in this University. A consolatory booke in the
time of the pestilence. An excellent treatise to the Count
Palatine of Rhene de Ecclesiae Paling^enesia, which I have
often read with great pleasure. AlT which workes have
bene printed in tnis Citie. This worthy man continueth
to this day a publike Divinitie reader of this University.
And at that time when I was there did begin to interprete
the Genealogie of Christ out of the first chapter of St
Mathewes gospell, as he himselfe tolde me. Hee is at this
time betwixt seventy & eighty veares of age. They
esteeme him in Basil an Imitator of Erasmus his phrase as
Polanus of Cicero. I found him very affable, and ftiU of
learned discourse and singular variety of matter, and so
x68
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE 1
iacil and plausible in his delivery, that me thinkes that
notable verse of Homer in praise of Nestor may be very
properly spoken of him,
TOy Koi atro yXw<j-(n]i /ieXiTO^ yXvKMV ptev avo^
Which is thus incomparably well interpreted by Cicero :
Cujus ex ore melle dulcior fiuebat onitio. He tooke great
pleasure in discoursing of our English Universities, and
of the learned men of England in former times, as of
Veneralis Beda, (whom I have before mentioned in my
notes of Paris) and Alcuinus the schoolemaister of Carolus
Magnus. And also he highly commended Queene Eliza-
beth and our present King James.
I observed one thing in the outside of this Cathedrall
Church (whereof I have before written) that I never noted
in any other, which although the reader perhaps will
esteeme but a meane thing and unworthy the mention, yet
for the novelty of the matter I will speake of it : it is Exjuinu
noihing else but the tyle. A matter of rare curiosity. ''^"^-
For this Church is so exquisitely tyled, that it maketh a
wondrous faire shew a farre ofF : the tyles being made of
many colours, blew, yellow, and red, and wrought by way
of checker worke. In a little pretty greene yard or court
walled about adjoyning to this Church and neere to the [p- 434-]
Rhene I noted the strangest Tree that ever I saw, being -^ "oiaile
of the Ladnes called Tilia, of the Dutchmen Linda, which '^"-
standeth in the middest of the court, and spreadeth his
boughes and Ummes a great way forth in an equall com-
passe, at the teast thirtie foote broad (in my opinion) every
way. The boughes being supported with a great company
of long poles to beare them up the more orderly. I heard
there is such another tree in the Citie ; but I saw it not.
The like I saw standing in the high way within a few miles
of the Citie of Heidelberg, but it is much inferiour to this.
In the outside of the West end of the Church there is
erected a goodly Statue of Saint George on horse-back,
thrusting his launce into the throate of the Dragon,
Likcwise I observed at the West end of the Church a very
.69
CORYATS CRUDITIES
plaine yard, which I therefore mention because in times
past they were wont to celebrate notable justes and torna-
ments in this place about the beginning of Lent, upon
that day which we commonly call Shrove-tuesday.
Afamom Amongst the rest there was one famous meeting here
^**^*^'* (as a certaine learned Gentleman of the University told
mee, being also mentioned by Munster in his description
of Basil) upon the yeare 1376. at what time one of the
Leopolds Duke of Austria, exercised himselfe at the afore-
said game, with many other great Peeres. This tomament
is something memorable, because at that time there was
raised such a tumult amongst the Citizens, that the Duke
was constrained to flie over the Rhene to the lesser Basil
with many of his Nobles, whereof some were taken
prisoners, as Rodolph Earle of Habspurg, Rodolph
Marquesse of Hochberg, &c. But at length the matter
was pacified after those Citizens that were the ring-leaders
of the sedition, were executed for their malapertnesse.
^^ The Universitie is seated in the greater Citie, beeing
Umventiy. f^^^ instituted by that learned Pope Pius secundus, who
[p« 43S-J ^s first called ^neas Sylvius before his Papacie. It
hapned that when he made his abode in this Citie, he was
so exceedingly delighted with the situation thereof, that
within a short space after, he made it a seminary of
learning, endowing it with such priviledges and liberties
as Bononia in Italie and other Universities did enjoy.
His first grant he confirmed at Mantua in the yeare 1459.
and the second yeare of his Popedome. The Colledges
are but few, no more then two in number, beeing
distinguished by the names of the higher and the lower
colledge, both which I visited. The lower was built by
Erasmus, which he hath inriched with maintenance. The
higher hath no revenewes or very little to maintaine the
same ; so that the greatest part of Students are tabled in
the Citie at their own charge.
A Greek In a certaine roome of Erasmus CoUedge I heard a very
lecture. learned Greeke lecture read in one of Homers Iliads by
Mr. Zuinggerus the publike professour of the Greeke
170
_ bacl
I
I
I
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
tongue, who was the sotine of that iamous Theodorus
Zuinggerus a great Philosopher of this University.
Surely although the Academie be but small, yet it hath
bred a great multitude of passing learned men within these
threescore yeares of all principatl faculties, especially
Divines, and many excellent Philosophers, For besides
those famous men whose monuments and epitaphs I have
before mentioned, many worthy professours of learning '"^"J aninky
have spent their time in this noble University as in a most ^^^iJJ
sure harbour and pleasant receptacle of all the Muses. As
Sebastian Munster, Conradus Lycosthenes, Henricus
Glareanus, Hieronymus Gemussus, Joannes Amer-
bachius, and his three learned sonnes, Bonifecius, Bruno,
ind Basilius, whereof the two later have most learnedly
llustrated the workes of Saint Hierome ; Gulielmus
' 'Gratarolus whome I have before mentioned in my
description of Bergomo ; Sebastianus Brandus, Theodorus
Zuingerus, and many other excellent men, whose memory [p. 436.]
will ever live in their learned workes.
Amongst other calamities that this Citie hath in former ^<"^' 'f^*
times sustained, as the sacking of it by barbarous Attila, ^ ^i"'"-
King of the Hunnes, and the burning of it afterward by
the Hungarians in the time of Lewes the fourth Emperour
of that name, there happened two notable earthquakes (as
I both heard of a learned man in the Citie, & alsa read
in Munsters Cosmographie) that did not a little ruinate
the same. Whereof the first was in the yeare 1346. ^"lablt
The second 1356. at what time most of the principall ^"'''^i'^*'
buildings of the Citie, both sacred and civill were utterly
shaken, and rooted out of their foundations, the Citizens
by good fortune escaping with their lives by flight out
of the Citie, yet one hundred of them were slaine with the
fell of the houses. Moreover the ruine of the buildings
caused so great a fire by the collision of them together, as
lasted many dayes, and destroyed both man and beast.
A spectacle exceeding tragical. For the repayring of
^^^ which ruines many came to Basil from some of the Cities
^^Kof Alsatia and Helvetia, and within a short space well
CORYATS CRUDITIES
CouncUof
Basle.
[P- 437-]
repeopled the Citie, and beautified it with many stately
houses that they raised up from the foundations. This
Citie was heretofore Episcopal, the first Bishop thereof
being one Walanus in the yeare 704. who lived in the
time of Pipin King of France, the father of Carolus
Magnus. And it was for the space of many yeares adomed
with the residence of a Bishop whose Palace was in the
lesser Basil till the yeare 1365. one Joannes de Wan an
Italian, being the last Bishop; a man of that turbulent
spirit as utterly overthrew the Bishopricke by his insolent
behaviour.
Besides many other notable things that have much
enobled this stately Citie, these two are esteemed not the
least, namely that famous *Councell that was celebrated
and kept here anno 1431. under the Emperour Sigis-
mundus and the Popes Eugenius the fourth, & Felix
the fifth: and that notable art of printing, which hath
these many yeares much fiourished in this Citie, not so
much for the excellency of the print (which indeed is no
better here then in other Cities) as for the singular
industrie and great labours of the Printers of the Citie
(that have bene as leamed men as most of that faculty
in Christendome) namely Joannes Operinus, the two
Frobenii, John the father, and Hierome the sonne, Michael
Isingrius, Sebastian Henricpeter, Joannes Hervagius,
Nicolaus Episcopius, Joannes Wolphius, firc. Which
worthy men have taken as great pames to purge many
ancient and learned authors both sacred and prophane from
those manifold faults and errours which bv the injury of
the times were crept into them, as Hercules did in times
past in the cleansing of Augeas stable. Of those battels
that have beene waged neere to this Citie, I finde two above
Tf9owtabU the rest most memorable: whereof the one was fought
by Julius Caesar against Ariovistus King of the Germanes,
even the last battel that was waged with him, at a place
called St. Apollinaris, which was one Dutch mile j&om
* At thb Councell it was decreed that the authority of a generall
Conncell was greater then of the Pope.
173
Great
printirs.
battles.
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
Basil, standing in the same side of the Rhene which was
heretofore accounted part of France : The other was waged
neere to the Citie upon the seventh of September in the
yeare 1444. betwixt the Armeniaci (so called from a
certaine Earledome of Aquitanie, the Earle whereof was
a great Commander in that Armie) under the conduct of
Ludovicus Dolphin of Fance, who was afterward the
eleventh King of that name ; and the Helvetians. Which
battell is much the more memorable by reason of the
unequall number of the fighters. For three thousand of
the Helvetians conquered twenty thousand of the French
men. But so that all the Helvetians lost their lives in
fight, in that manner as we reade the valiant Spartans did
at the skirmish of Thermopylse in Greece, when three
hundred of them being conducted by their valiant Captaine [p, 438,]
Leonidas, opposing themselvcs with a few othcr Grccians
against the huge armie of the Perslans, Fmhfim: of
The men ot this Citie weare great codpieces and ruffe ,^, ciiy.
bandes as the Tigurines do. Also they weare a strange
kind of hat, wherein they differ from all other Switzers
that I saw in Helvetia. It is made in the forme of a cap,
very long crowned, whereof some are made of felt, and
some of a kinde of stuffe not unlike to shagge in outward
view. It hath no brimmes at all, but a high fiappe turned
up behind, which reacheth almost to the toppe of the hat,
being lesser and lesser towards the toppe. This fashion
is so common in the Citie, that not onely all the men
generaUy doe weare it both Citizens and Academicks {in
so much that Amandus Pollanus wore the same in the
Divinity schoole) but also the women whatsoever, both
yong and old. Moreover their women, cspecially maides
doe weare two such plaited rowles of haire over their
shoulders whereln are twisted ribbons of divcrs colours at
the endes, as the women of Zurich. I observcd many
women of this Cltie to be as beautlfull and faire as any I
saw in all my travels : but I wiU not attribute so much to
them as to compare them with our English women, whomc
I justly preferre, and that without any partialitie of affcc-
1
CORYArS CRUDITIES
tion, before any women that I saw in my travek, for an
elegant and most attractive natural beautie.
ytitoftke xhe diet in their principall Innes is passing good,
^^* especially at their Ordinaries. For the variety of meate
and that of the better sort, it is so great that I have not
obser\'ed the like in any place in my whole joumey saving
at Zurich. But indeed it is something deare, no lesse then
eifi^ht battes a meale, which are twenty pence of our money.
They use to sitte lonc^ at supper, even an houre and a
halfe at the least, or aimost two houres. The first noble
P* 439*] carowsinc; that I saw in Germany was at mine Inne in Basil.
Where I saw the Germanes drink helter-skdter vcry
sociablvy exempting my selfe from their liquid impositions
as well as I could. It is their custome whensoever they
drink to another, to see their glasse filled up incontinent,
(for therein they most commonly drinke) and then they
deliver it into the hand of him to whome they drinke,
Ij^*^ esteeming him a very curteous man that doth pledge the
whole, according to the old verse:
Germanus mihi fi-ater eris si pocula siccas.
But on the contrary side^ they deeme that man for a very
rusticall and unsociable peasant, utterly unworthy of their
company, that will not with reciprocal turnes mutually
retaliate a health. And they verifie the olde speech
n TriQi fi &7ridiy that is, eyther drinke or be gon. For
though they wiU not offer any villanie or injury unto him
that refuseth to pledge him the whole, (which I have often
seene in England to my great griefe) yet they will so little
regard him, that they will scarce vouchsafe to converse
with him. Truly I have heard Germany much dispraised
for drunkennesse before I saw it ; but that vice reigneth
no more there (that I could perceive) then in other coun-
tries. For I saw no man drunke in any place of Germany,
though I was in many goodly Cities, and in much notable
company. I would God the imputation of that vice could
not be almost as truly cast upon mine owne nation as upon
Germany. Besides I observed that they impose not such
«74
OBSERVATIONS OF BASLE
an inevitable necessity of drinking a. whole health, especi-
ally those of the greater size, as many of our English
gallants doe, a custome (in my opinion) most barbarous,
and fitter to bee used amongst the rude Scythians and
Gothes then civill Christians : yet so frequently practised
in England, that I have often most heartily wished Jt were
clean abolished out of our land.as being no small blemishto
so renowned and well governed a Kingdome as England is.
It was my chance to heare very dismall and unhappy ^"^^ ,
newes in this city of my most learned and worthy countri- "* '
man Mr. Hugh Broughton. For there was dispersed a ^^' ** '-'
fame for a little time about the University that he had
utterly abandoned his religion, and inserted himselfe into
the Jesuitical femily at Mentz, But afterward I under-
stood that it was a very felse and malicious tale. For when
I came to Mentz I heard of alt the particulars by a certaine
English Priest living amongst the Jesuites, who told me
that there hapned a certaine unlucky occasion of acquaint-
ance betwixt Nicholas Serrarius the Coryphjeus of the
Jesuites of that City and Mr. Broughton, which ministred
the original matter of that scandalous rumour in many
German Cities : but that he continued as vehement an
adversary against the Papisticall religion as ever he was.
Thus at length I end my discourse of this renowned City
and University of Basil with the remembrance of my
famous countriman Mr. Broughton, who for his exquisite
skiU in the sacred languages of the Hebrew, Chaldean,
Syrian, and Greeke hath purchased himselfe a great hsne
in some of the worthyest Cities and Universities of Ger-
many ; the place of his aboade being the noble Citie of
Amsterdam in HoIIand, when I was in the Netherlands.
Thus much of Easil.
IMade my aboade in Basil all Tuesday after nine of the TravtlHng
clocke in the morning, all Wednesday being the one ^"
and thirtieth and last of August, and departed therehence
in a barke secundo cursu upon the river Rhene betwixt
five and sixe of the clocke tn the morning the first day of
H
CORYATS CRUDITIES
September being Thursday, and came to the Citie of
Strasboiirgy which is foxire score English miles beyond it,
about eleven of the clocke the next moming being Friday,
and the second day of September. By the way I passed
by two Cities, both seated on the right hand of the Rhene,
whereof the one is called Neobourg, the other Brisac
p. 441.] Both these are Papistical. The Thuiiday night it was my
chaunce to lie about twenty miles on this side Strasbourg
in my boate sub dio upon a wadde of straw, having fbr
my coverled the cold open aire which did not a little punish
me : yet I comforted my selfe with the recordation of the
old verse,
Dulcia non meruit qui non gustavit amara,
that I did not deserve the sweet junkats of my little
experience without some bitter pilles and hard brunts of
adverse fortune.
But before I come to the description of Strasbourg I
will speake something of the Rhene, because at Basil where
I first was imbarqued upon the same, it extendeth it selfe
^f^k^M ^ ^^ ^ greater bredth then I could see before. This noble
*^' Rhene, being next to the Danubius the fairest river of all
Germany, which it disterminateth from France, deriveth
his original spring from a certaine Mountaine of the
RheticaU Alpes cafled Adula but a little way distant ftom
the Citie of Curia above mentioned, which yeeldeth two
severall fountaines, wherehence rise two rivers that meete
together in one about five English miles above the said
Curia, whereof one is called the first Rhene, the other the
second. Betwixt these two fountaines and the spring of
the Rhodanus that I have above spoken of in my descrip-
tion of Lyons, there is interjected no longer space then of
three houres journey, the high Mountaine Godard (which
is commonly esteemed the highest of all the Alpine Moim-
taines) deviding them asunder. Virgil calleth this river
bicornis: as
*£xtremique hominum Morini Rhenusque bicomis,
♦iEnei. 8.
176
OBSERVATIONS OF THE RHINE ■
because it hath in a manner hornes, and those in number
rwo, whose names are Lecca and Wahalis. In which Branchi of
respect other Poets also as well as he termed it bicornis, ''*< Rhint.
By these hornes are meant certayne armes as it were or -^
secondary rivers derived out of the same. For indeede
in Virgils time it had two cornua only, which about the [p. 442.;
entrance of HoUand, heretofore called Batavia, doe dis-
gorge themselves partly into the river Mosa, and partly
into the westerne Ocean. But within a few yeares after
Virgils death it beganne to be called tricornis by the addi-
tion of a third river whose name is Isella. Which Drusus
thc brother of the Emperour Tiberius, at what time he
levied armes against the Germanes, conveighed out of the
Rhene by the meanes of a large ditch that his Souldiers
digged out of the maine land for the same purpose, to
the end that he might object the same as an obex or a
barre for repulsing the violent invasion of the BatavJans,
which were the people of the country, against him. Julius
Cssar caused the portraiture of this river (as Tranquillus
writeth in his life) to be made in gold, and presented in
his triumph of France, as being the only river that devided
Germany and France, which he had with such great diffi-
culty made subject to the Romans : the like whereof he
did of the lamous river Rhodanus, as I have before written
in my Observations of Lyons. One most memorable and
admirable thing I will report of this river, which I have
read in an eloquent Epistle of Angelus Politianus sent to
his friend Jacobus, Cardinal of Pavie. A thing that he
hath borrowed (as I conjecture) out of the Booke of
Cornelius Tacitus de Germanorum moribus, which was
this. The Rhene had in times past one more strange ^ itran^
property then any river in the whole world that I could f^P"''^-
either heare or reade of in any history whatsoever sacred
or prophane, that whensoever any infants were cast into
his channell (a thing that hath sometimes hapned) if they
were begotten out of lawfiill wedlocke, the river as a just
revenger of the mothers polluted bedde would presently
swallow it up in his swift streame ; but if he found them
177 M
1
1
i
[P- 443-]
The bounJi of
[p- +44-]
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
to be begotten in the honest and chaste couple of mairiage,
he would gently and quietly conveigh them upon the toppe
of the water, and restore them into the trembling handes
of the wofull mother, yeelding safety unto the silly babe
as a most true testimony of the mothers Impolluted
chastity.
The end of my Observations of Switzerland.
My Observations of sotne parts cf high Germanie.
Eing I am now come into Germanie I wil
speake something of the boundes of the
country, and their names together with
their etymologies, that are very elegant.
Also I will make some short mention of
Alsatia, the name of the territory wherein
Strasbourg standeth, and so anon descend
to the description of the City it selfe, Gcrmanie is the
largest region of all Europe, being divided from France
by the river Rhene, from Rhetia and Pannonia by the
Danubius, from Sarmatia now called partly Polonia partly
Prussia, likewise from Dacia (whereof the greatest part is
now called Transylvania) by certaine mountaines. The
Qther parts are bounded with the Ocean. This country
had two names heretofore before it was called Gcrmany,
viz. Teutonia and Alemannla. Teutonia some will have
to be so called quasi Tuisconia from Tuisco the sonne of
the Patriarch Noah by his wife Arezia, who after the
general! inundation of the world, having all that vast
country that lyeth betwixt the rivers Tanais and the
Rhene, assigned unto him by his father for a Kingdome to
reigne in, came into these westerne parts of the world
shortly after the deluge, and made his residence in some
place neare to the Rhene. Others derive it from one
Teutanes (which derivation is the better in my opinion,
and more answerable to the name of Teutonia) who was
the Lord of this country after the death of King Tuisco.
Likewise the name Alemannia hath foure etymologies.
17S
OBSERVATIONS OF HIGH GERMANY
For some write that it taketh his denomination from Eijmnhgy sf
Alemannus the surname of Hercules, who (as that ancient jlUmavma.
Chaldasan authour Berosus writeth) did heretofore reigne
in this country. Others say that it commeth from Mannus
the sonne of the foresaid Tuisco. But the best and most
elegant etymologie of all, is to derive if (as some learned
doe) from two German wordes which doe altogether agree
with our Engtish, even from AU man, as the people called
Marcomanni (which are now those of Moravia) had their
name from Marck, which signifieth the bound of a coun-
try, and the word Man. So that they which deduce the
name of Alemannia from All man (as Munster doth) give
this reason for it, because the auncient Alemannes were
very couragious and valiant men, yea they were AIl men :
as when we in our English idiome doe commend a man
for his valour, we sometimes say such a man is all courage,
all spirit : so the Aleman quasi All man, he is all valour,
every part of him is viril, manly, and couragious, no jot
effeminate, which indeede was verified by their fortitude
and manly cariage in their warres against the Romans.
Though this etymologie be passing good and deserveth
(in my opinion) to be most approved above all the rest,
yet I perceive that Philip Melancthon, speaking according ^tl'^''"!"»'
to the opinion of other writers, affirmeth that the Aleman "<*"'""'■
is so calJed quasi Allerleyman a Dutch word which signi-
fieth a promiscuous multitude, which heretofore conjoyned
themselves together to recover their iiberty, by reason
of the tyrannicall insolencies of the Roman Captaines.
Againe I observe in reading of histories the first mention
or this word Aleman, in the historie of the Emperour
Valerius Probus, who of the Franci and Alemanni slew
foure hundred thousand, The third name Germania Germania.
which is the moderne appellation of the country, hath as
elegant an etymologie as Alemannia. For it is called
Germania from the Latin word Germanus, which doth [p- +45-1
sometimes signifie a mans naturall brother both by fether
and mother, quasi ex eodem germlne natus, one that issueth
from the same stocke, that is, one that springeth from one
179
I
k
1
CORYArS CRUDrriES
and the selfe same mothers belly. The reason of this
etymologie is this : Because the auncient Germans did with
such a brotherly affection share dangers and fortunes of
warre, that those which remained at home by applying
themselves to the affaires of husbandrie, maintayned the
wives and children of them that were gone into the warres
for the conunon safety of their country : and againe those
that had beene a yeare abroad in warrare, returned home
into their country to exercise tillage, & to nourish the
families of those men that were pressed fbrth into the wars
in their roome. Now though I doe in this place prefixe
this discourse of the boundes and the aundent names of
this country by way of an introduction to my ensviing
description of the German cities, you must consider that
this particular country on the farther banke of the Rhene
where Basil, Strasbourg, Spira, Wormes, Mentz, &c. doe
stand, was not heretofbre in the time of the aundent
Romans, as Julius Cssar, Drusus, and other valiant
Worthyes that conquered it, called Germanie (for al this
long tract was devided from Germany by the river Rhene
as r have before said about the beginning of this discourse)
but in those times it was ever esteemed tor a part of Gallia,
and so was reputed for the space of many hundred yeares
after, till the time of the Emperour Charlemaine and his
successors, and then it beganne to be called Germany as
well as the other parts on the hither side or banke of the
Rhene (which are indeed the true and andent Germanie)
since which time it hath continually retained the same
name to this day. Having now spoken of the baondes
and names of Germany, I will briefly mention this country
wherein Strasbourg standeth, and so at length after so long
a preamble (which I hope will not be irksomc to a judicious
[p. 446.] reader) relate the particulars of the City itselfe. The
Jlsace. name of the country is Alsatia (as I have before written)
but commonly called in Dutch Elsass. It is devided into
two parts, the higher and the lower Alsatia: a terntory
very populous, frequented with goodly Cities and townes
(whereof these are the chiefest, Strasbourg, Rubeaquum
180
OBSERVATIONS OF STRASBURG
commonly called Rufach, and Colmaria) inriched with Tkt ganitn
precious mines of silver, and is accounted so fertile a plot "/Gtrmany
o{ ground that some doe not doubt to call it the garden
of Germany. Heretofore it was called the lesser France,
and that for the space of five hundred yeares. Afterward
it was converted to a Landgraviat, and for many yeares
acknowiedged a Landgrave for the supreme Lord thereof,
as the territorie of Hassia doth at this day, and as Thur-
ingia did heretofore.
Thus much of the Bounds and divers Namcs of Germanie,
and of the territorie of Alsatia.
My Observations of Argentina cr Argentoratum,
commonly called Strasbourg the Metropolitan
City of Alsatia.
Slnce I came into England I found these verses following i
in praise of Strasbourg and the famous tower of the |
Cathedrall Church, in a certaine elegant booke that a
Gentleman a kinde friend of mine and my neighbour in Georgt
my country of Somersetshire, one Mr. George Sidenham Sideniam'.
the sonne and heire of my right Worshipfull friend Sir "'"f '"
John Sidenham, very lovingly communicated unto me, c^^^
which by reason of the elegancy thereof I have thought
expedlent to prefixe before my description of this noble
City, hoping that they will be very pleasing to the learned
Reader.
URbs antiqua jacet (primi colucre Triboces) [p- 447-]
Argentoratum, ripis contermina RhenJ.
Dives opum, & nulii veterum virtute secunda,
Sive fidem spectes, & religionis honorem ;
Sive forum, canosque Patres, sanctumque Senatum,
Justitixque decus : seu limina culta Lycei,
Insignesque viros : seu duro maenia saxo
Condita, & armatas adversa in pra-"lia vires,
Marmoreasque domos, atque ardua tecta domorum.
H^ templum augustum, ccelataque turris in urbe
Verticc prospiciens alto (mirabile dictu)
I
I
CORYATS CRUDITEBS
^UeMUw^i
frmtirf
[P. 448.]
Surgit, & ezcelsum caput inter nubik condit.
Tota toreumatibus, pictisque exdsa columiiiS)
Tota patens lud, & kni perflabilis aura,
£t cono insignis galeae, & testudine drcum
Quadruplid septa, & nullo violabilis ictu.
Prima solo posuit quondam fundamina duro
Steinbachii natus de gente Ervinus, & onme
Ad galeam duxit ^opus, & testudine sepsit.
Tempore quo imperii gessit Rodolphus habenas
Habspurgus, Comitum Germanus origine Cesar.
Nunc illam multis servantque fbventque minores
Impensis, magnoque locant in honore, suosque
MaJOTes hac kude sequant. Nam fulmine tactam
Soepiiis immensi repararunt sumptibus aeris.
Jamque ade6 nuper, foribus qui maxima templi
Stant adyta austrinis, soda testudine juncta,
Excelso fabricam posuerunt pariete muri
Intus ut exactas mortalibus indicet horas,
£t Solis Lunacque vias, noctesque diesque,
£t menses, fastosque in lon^iun digerat aevum.
Mirum opus ingenii, mirandique arte paratum.
Quale kboriferi nesdsset radere tomus
Praxitelis, Cous nec depinxisset Apelles,
Nec Polydetaeus duxisset in aere caminus.
Quale nec ^tnaeis olim Telchines in antris,
Nec rigidus Steropes, nec qui polit arma Tonanti
Muldber aetema potuisset nngere massa.
Quale nec hoc toto quisquam conspexit in orbe,
Nec facili aspiciet, seu Gallica regna pererret,
Seu totam Italiam lustret, seu Teutonis orbem
Viribus ingenii superantem climata mxmdi
Toties invisat, seu Persica rura peragret,
Sive adeat Libyen atque ultima littora Thules.
Strasburg. OTrasbourg standeth in the lower Alsatia, and is situate
O in a very pleasant and delectable plaine about a quarter
of an £nglish mile distant from the Rhene, yet well watered
*A &alt bnt somethmg tolenble.
182
OBSERVATIONS OF STRASBURG
with three other rivers, as the Kintzgus, the Illa, and the
Bruschus, whereof the last runneth through a. part of the
City ; a place of such passing fatnesse and fertility (as a
certaine English Merchant told me called Robert Kingman
an Herefordshire man borne, but then commorant in
Strasbourg with his whole family when I was there) that
for amenity of situation and exceeding plenty of all things
that the hart of man can wish for, it doth &rre excell all the -^"^"y ^/''
other Cities of the same territorie, though some of them " ""'
are very faire, as Rubeaquum, Selestadium, Colmaria &C.
in so much that when I did throughly contemplate the
sweet champaignes, meadowes, lakes, vineyards, and
gardens about the same, I said to myseife that I might
very justly call the circumjacent plaine about this City
sumen Alsatife, that is, the most principall and (ruitfull
place of all Alsatia, as Flavius Vopiscus an ancient historio-
grapher did heretofore terme the fields of Rosea neare to
the City of Bononia, sumen Itaiia;. This part of the
country with some other bordering places therecf was once
inhabited by a lcinde of people called *Triboces, before
such time as it was called Alsatia, wherehence it was called
Tribocum regio, So ancient is this City that it is thought 'fwj^''*
it may contend with any German City whatsoever for ^'^'
antiquity, saving those three that I have before mentioned, [p. 4.49.]
nameiy Trevirs, Zurich, and Solodurum. Nay Munster
doth not doubt to affirme (but spealcing after other men)
that it was built at the same time those Cities were, so
that as the City of Trevirs had her denomination from
Trebeta the sonne of Ninus King of the Assyrians : so was
this city tirst called Trebesburgum (as the same Munster
reporteth) or Tyrasburgum from the very same founder.
And afterward by the changing or addition of some letters
it was called Strasburgum. Againe there are others that
attribute the change of the name from Trebesburgum to
Strasburgum (as the foresaid authorwriteth) to the tyrannie
of Attila King of the Hunnes, who after he had demolished
this City with many other noble cities of Germany, did
* These are mentioned by Csur.
■83
I
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
StratbMrg ^ith such extreme furie deface the walles thereof , that he
"^'^ opened a free way and passage for aU rru^
whatsoever promiscuously to enter the same; whicb
accident gave occasion of the name Strasbourg, that is^ a
City that yeeldeth a conmion way for all men to passe
through: for Stroze in the high Dutch signifieth a way.
Also the same Attila imposed an other name upon it,
which it retained but a little while, viz Polyodopolis, which
signifieth as much as the former name Strasbourg. For
it is composed of three Greeke wordes, iroXiv which
signifieth many, oio^ a way, And iroXif a City, that is, a
City that a man may many wayes passe through. But thc
name Argentina was imposed upon it fi-om the Latm word
Argentum that signifieth silver, because when the City was
subject to the Roman Empire, some Qusestor in the behalfe
of the Senate of Rome made his residence and kept his
Audit in this City to gather up all the rents and tnbutes
due to the Romans in those parts, as being their gazo-
phylacium, that is, a place where their checker-chamber
was for the safe keeping of the Roman treasure, even as
Lyons was heretofore appointed a checker City for the
[p* 450-] Romans in the Province of France, where they had such
another Officer assigned for the same piupose, I have
before written in my Observations of that Citie.
Notabk There are many goodly things in this renowned City
^**^'' that doe much heautifie the same. As the loftinesse of
the building, the multitude of their houses, the beauty
and spaciousnesse of their streetes and the cleane keeping
thereof, the great fi-equency of people, their strong walles
made of hard stone, and adorned with stately battlements,
divers towers, strong bulwarkes, fkire gates, mighty and
deep trenches that are moated round about : and of those
walles I observed two severall, being by a convenient space
distant asunder, and each of them environed with a deepe
ditch. Truly these double walles do much grace the Citie.
But the principall things of all which do espedally illustrate
and garnish Strasbourg are but two, which because they
are the most matchlesse and incomparable fkbrickes of all
184
OBSERVATIONS OF STRASBURG
I
Christendome, no Citie whatsoever in all Europe yeelding
the like, I will something particularly discourse thereof.
These are the Tower of the Cathedral Church and a Clocke
within the Church. But before I speake of eyther of
these I wil first make relation of their Church, because that
is as it were the maine body, whereof these two are the
principall and fayrest members,
The Cathedrall Church is dedicated to our Lady, and Caihedral
commonly called the Minster of Strasbourg. It was first ^""^"l
founded about the yeare 508. by Clodoveus the first Chris- ""^ -^^
tian King of France, who was the founder of the principal ~
church oF Zurich also, which is called by the name of Saint
Felix and Regula as I have before said. At the entrance
of the Church are three dores made of massie brasse, and
decked with many historical matters of the old and new
Testament, which are very curiously expressed in pretty
little images over the same dores. Within the Church,
about the west end of the body thereof, there is a feire [p. 4S'0
paire of Organs that were new mending when I was there,
and like to be passing beautifiil! when they are throughly
ended. For the Citize-s bestowed great charges in gilding
of them. I observed one thing in this Church that I
never saw in any Church before, even a Well in the South -^ ^^ '" '^
side of the body : the water whereof serveth for divers ' "" "
uses, as to sprinkle the Church to the end to keepe it
cleane, also for the baptizing of their Children, Stc. But
this Church yeeldeth the superiority to the Cathedral
church of Basil that I have before so much commended
(saving only for the two foresaid matters which I will
hereafter describe) for I could not perceive as much as one
monument in the whole Church. They have a very
religious exercise in this Church. For twise every day
in the weeke here is a sermon preached by a learned Divine.
The other Churches in the citie are sixe in number.
Having now spoken of the Church, I will next mention
those two memorable things that I have already named.
But I will first begin with the Tower, in regard it is the Touieroffhe
&irest of the two. Surely the same is by many degrees ''*"'■''*■
185
CORYATS CRUDITIES
thc exquisitest peecc of work for a Towcr that ever I saw,
as wel for the height, as for the rare curiosity of thc
architccturc ; so that neithcr France, Italy, nor any City
in Switzcrland or vast Gcrmany, nor of any Provincc or
Island whatsoever within thc prccincts of the Christian
world can shcw thc likc. It was begun in the ycarc 1277.
at what time Rodolph Earle of Habspurg was Emper-
our of Gcrmany, and was continually building for the
space of eight and twcnty ycarcs togcther, till it was
Thi onHuct. brought to fiill perfcction. Thc principall Architcct was
onc Ervinus of Steinbach (as thc Author of those cxcellent
Hcxametcr vcrses which I have prcfixed bcforc this
dcscription of Strasbourg doth testifie) who contrived thc
wholc modcll of the workc himselfc, and was thc chicfc
[p. 451.] Mason in the performing of this pecrclessc Machinc, which
hc raiscd from the vcry foundation to the toppe with
square stoncs most artificially and rarely cut. The staires
that leade up to the towcr, are madc windingly, bcing
distinguishcd with fourc scvcrall dcgrees, and whcre thc
thicknessc doth begin to be acuminatcd in a slcnder toppc,
thcrc are eight dcgrecs more of thosc winding staires that
Tii bali. risc above thc first foure. The ball which standcth upon
the highcst toppe of all, seemeth to those that are bcncath
upon thc ground, no greatcr thcn a bushcl, yct the dr-
cumfcrcnce thcreof is so largc that it will wcll containc
fivc or sixc sufficient and stout men upon thc same. The
manifold imagcs, pinnaclcs, & most curious devices carvcd
in stonc that are erccted round about the compasse of the
Towcr, are things of such singular bcautie, that thcy arc
vcry admirablc to bchold, and such as will by rcason of the
rarc novclty of thc workc, drivc a stranger that is but a
jiidtmlioftki novice into a vcry cxtasie of admiration. Also the altitudc
^*^' of it is so strangc, that from the bottomc to the toppc it is
saide to containc fivc hundrcd scventy foure Gcomctrical
foote ; which much cxccedeth the famous Italian Towcrs,
as that of Crcmona, which is cstccmed the lofticst of all
Italy, Saint Markes of Vcnicc, which although it bc but
two hundrcd cightie footc high, yct thc Vcnetians doc
186
OBSERVATIONS OF STRASBURG
account it a Tower of notable heigth, as indeed it seemeth
to all those that come to Venice by Sea: likewise the
slender tower of Vicenza is very high : but they all are
much inferiour to this unmatchable tower of Strasbourg,
Wherefore to conclude this discourse of this tower, I
attribute so much untc it, that I account it one of the
principall wonders of Christendome.
The second notable thing is a Clock (as I have already Tht dock.
spoken) which standeth at the South side of the Church
neere to the dore. A true figure or rcpresentation wherof,
made according to the forme it selfe as it standeth at this
day in the Church I have expressed in this place. Truly [?■ +S3-]
it is a fabricke so cxtraordinarily rare and artificial that I
am confidently perswaded it is the most exquisite piece of
worke of that kinde in all Europe. I thinke I should not
commit any great errour if I should say in all the world :
the bolder I am to affirme it, because I have heard very
famous travellers (such as have seene this Clocke and most
of thc principall things of Christendome) report the same.
It was begun to be built in the yeare 1571. in thc moneth
of June by a most excelient Architect & Mathematician of "^^,.
the Citic of Strasbourg, who was thcn alive when I was v^'i'''^
there. His namc is Conradus Dasypodius, once the
ordinary profcssour of the Mathematicks in the Universitie
of this Citie : A man that for his excellent art may very
fitly be called the Archimedes of Strasbourg; and it was
ended about three yeares after, even in the yeare 1574. in
the same moneth of June about the feast of Saint John
Baptist. This work contayneth by my estimation about
fifty foote in heigth betwixt the bottome and the top ; it
is compassed in with three severall rayles, to the end to
exclude all persons that nonc may approach neere it to
disfigure any part of it, whereof the two outmost arc made
of timber, thc third of yron about three yardcs high. On
the left hand of it there is a very ingenious and methodical
observation for the knowing of the eclipses of the Sunne
and Moone for thirty two yeares. At the toppe whereof
is written in fair Roman letters
187
a
k
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
TYPI ECLEPSIUM
SOLIS ET LUNiE
Ad ANNOS XXXII.
On the same hand ascendeth a very faire architectonical
Machine made of wainscot with sresit curiosity, the sides
being adorned with pretty littlc pfllers of marble of divers
colours, in which are three degrees, whereof each con-
'arvtnffw tayneth a faire Statue carved in wainscot: thc first the
Statue of Urania one of the nine Muses, above which her
p. 4S4.] name is written in golden letters, and by the sides thesc
two words in the like golden lettcrs, Arithmetica &
Geometria. The second the picture of a ccrtain King
with a regall Scepter in his hand. But what King it is I
know not. Above him is written Daniel 2. Cap. The
last is the picture of Nicolaus Copernicus that rarc
Astronomer, under whom this is written in fairc Roman
letters : Nicolai Copcrnici vcra cffigics ex ipsius autographo
depicta. At the very toppc of this rowc or scrics of
workc is crected a most exccllent effigies of a Cocke which
doth passing curiously represent the living shape of that
f cmmterfnt vocal creaturc, and it crowcth at certaine hourcs, ycelding
^k crmo. ^s shriU and loud a voice as a naturall Cocke, yca and such
a kindc of sound (which makcth it the more admirablc)
as counterfeyteth very neere the truc voyce of that bird.
The houres are elcven of thc clocke in the moming, and
three in the afternoonc. It was my chance to hcarc him
at the third hourc in thc aftcrnoone, whereat I wondcrcd
as much as I should have done if I had scene that famous
wooden Pigeon of Architus Tarentinus the Philosophcr
(so much cclebratcd by thc ancicnt Historians) flic in the
ayrc. On the right hand also of this goodly architccture
there is another row of building correspondent to the forc-
said in hcigth, but difFcring rrom it in formc. For the
principall part thereof consisteth of a paire of winding
staires made of free stone, and most delicately composed.
I could not pcrceive for what use they scrve, so that I
conjccture they are made espccially for ornament. Againe
i88
OBSERVATIONS OF STRASBURG
in the middle worke betwixt these two notable rowes that
I have now described, is erected that incomparable fabrick ^"
wherein the Clocke standeth. At the lower end whereof, '^""'P'"''' '
just about the middle, I observed the greatest astronomicall
globe that ever I saw, which is supported with an artificial
Pellican wounding his breast with his beake ; wherewith
they typically represent Christ, who was wounded for the
salvation and redemption of the worlde : and about the [p- +S5']
middest goeth a compasse of brasse which is sustayned
with very elegant little turned pillers. Opposite unto
which is a very large spheare beautified with many cunning
conveighances and wittie inventions. Directly above fhat
standeth another orbe which with a needle (this is a
mathematicai terme signifying a certaine instrument abcut
a clocke) pointeth at roure houres only that are figured at
the foure corners thus : i. 2. 3. 4. each figure at a severall
corner. At the sides of the orbe two Angels are repre-
sented, whereof the one holdeth a mace in his hand, with
which he striketh a brasen serpent every houre, and hard
by the same standeth a deaths head finely resembled ; the
other an houre glasse, which he moveth likewise hourely.
Notable objects tending to mortification. Both the lower
endes of this middle engine are very excellently graced
with the portraiture of two huge Lyons carved in marble.
This part oi the third fabricke wherein standeth the clocke,
is illustrated with many notable sentences of the holy StHUnmon
Scripture written in Latin, As, In principio creavit Deus """"^"
ctelum et terram. Gene. 1 cap, Omnis caro fcenum,
Pet. I. cap. I. Peccati stipendium mors est. Rom. 6. Dei
donum vita arterna per Christum. Rom. 6. Ascendisti in
altum, cepisti captivitatem. Psal. 68, Againe under the
same are written these sentences in a lower degree : Ecce
ego creo ccelos novos et terram novam. Esaise 65. Ex-
pergiscimini et laetamini qui habitatis in pulvere. Esa. 26.
Venite benedicti patris mei, possidete regnum vobis para-
tum. Discedite a me maledicti in ignem Eternum. Math.
Cthese sentences divers goodly armes are
1 beautified with feyre Scutchins. Under the
189
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CORYATS CRUDITIES
Exjtthiit same many curious pictures are drawne which present
dtvicti. onely histories of the Bible. Again above thal orbe
which I have already menticned, there is erected an other
orbe or spheare wherein are figured the houres dis-
[p. 456.] tinguishing Time, and a great company of mathematicall
conceits which doe decipher some of the most abstruse &
secret mysteries of the noble science of Astronomy. Like-
wise an other Orbe standeth above this that I last spake
of, within the which is expressed the figure of an halfe
moone and many glittering starres set forth most gloriously
in gold, and againe without are formed foure halfe moones
and two fiill moones. Above the higher part of this Orbe
this impresse is written : Quje est hac tam illustris, similis
aurorx, pulchra ut Luna, pura ut Sol.'' At the sides of it
beneath, this poesie is written, which is thus distributed:
Dominus lux mea, on the left hand ; & this on the right
hand, Quem tiraebo .-' Also above the same Orbe I
Seven beUs ef observed an other very exquisite device, even seven little
''""- pretty bels of brasse (as I conceived it) standing together
in one ranke, and another little bell severally by it selfe
above the rest. Within the same is contrived a certaine
vacant or hoUow place wherein stand certaine artificial men
so ingeniously made that I have not seene the like. These
doe come forth at every quarter of an houre with a very
delightfull and pleasant grace, holding small banners in
their hands wherewith they strike these foresaid bels, every
one in order alternis vicibus, and supply each other with a
pretty diligence and decorum in this quarterly fijnction.
Under the place where these two men doe strike those
foresaid bells, these two sacred Emblemes are written :
Ecclesia Christi exulans : And, Serpens antiquus Anti-
christus. The highest toppe of this fabricke is framed
with such surpassing curiositie that it yeeldeth a wonderfull
ornament to the whole engine, having many excellent little
portraitures and fine devices contrived therein of free stone,
and garnished with borders and workes of singular art.
Moreover the corners of this middle worke are decked
with very beautifiill little pillers of ash-coloured marble.
OBSERVATIONS OF STRASBURG
whereof there stand two in a place, those above square,
ihose beneath round. Thus have I something superfidalty
described unto thee this fkmous Clocke of Strasbourg,
being the Phornix of al the clocks of Christendom. For
it doth as far excel aJ other Clocks that ever I saw before,
as that of the Piazza of St Marks in Venice, which I have
already mentioned, that of Middelborough in Zeland
which I afterward saw, and atl others generally, as farre
(I say) as a fayre yong Lady of the age of eighteen yeares
that hath beene very elegantly broughf up in the trimming
of her beauty, doth a homely and course trull of the
Countrie, or a rich orient pearle a meane peece of amber.
But I am sorry I have not made that particular relation
thereof as that excellent fabricke doth deserve. For these
few observations which I have written of it I gathered in
little more than hatfe an houre, where I had no mans
assistance to instruct me in the principall things that 1
doubted off, determining then to make a full description
of tbose particulars that I have expressed in the effigies
thereof, had I not been barred of opportunity by the Sextin
that at that time that I was in the middest of my curious
survay of the same, was to shut up the Church dores.
Howbeit I wish that that little which I have written of it
(if it should happen to be read by any of the wealthy
Citizens of London) may bee an encouragement to some
wealthy Fraternity to erect the like in Paules Church, or
some other notable Church of London for the better
ornament of the Metropohtan Citie of our famous Island
of great Britaine. A thing that I heartily wish I may one
day see come to passe. Having therefore now ended this
discourse of the Clocke (whereof I wish all English Gentle-
raen that determine hereafter to sec Strasbourg, to take
an exact view, as a matter most worthy of their curious
obscrvation) I will returne to the relation of some other
memorabte things of this Citie.
Thc Armourie of Strasbourg, which it was not my good
fortune to see, was reported unto me by a Gentleman of
^^^^ie University to be a most worthy and beautiflilt place.
[p- 457-]
Tie Pheenlx
o/all the
ckch b/
ChrisleitJom.
exampie.
The armeury.
[p. 45 8.]
CORYAT-S CRUDTTIES
furnished with such admirable variety of all manner of
munition fit for warre-fare, that no Citie of all Germany
can shew a fairer, saving only Dresden in Saxony where
the Duke keepeth his Court.
Thus much of the Clocke of Strasbourg.
MAny of the buildings of Strasbourg are very faire
and of a goodly heigth, foure stories high, especially
their publique houses, as their Councell house, &c. But
Housno/ the greater part of their houses are built with timbcr.
Straibkjg. yhis thing I especially observed in the houses of Stras-
bourg, which I noted else where in divers other cities of
Germany both before I came thither and afterward, as in
Basil, Mentz, Heidelberg, Spira, &c, that both the endes
of their houses doe rise with battlements, and a great many
of these houses of Strasbourg I saw built in that manner
that not only the endes, but also the sides are gar-
nished with battlements, a forme of building much
affected by the Germans, and indeede it giveth no small
grace and ornament to the house. Here also I observed
one of the fairest shambles that I saw in all my travels.
In the front of one of the citizens houses I saw fifteene
of the first Roman Emperours very galantly painted.
The There is in this City a University, but a very obscure
Umptritty. ^^^ meane thing, nothing answerable to the majesty of so
beautifijU a City. For it hath but one CoUedge, which I
visited, being both for buiiding and maintenance one of
the poorest Colledges that ever I saw, in so much that I
cannot report any memorable thing of it, only it hath a
prety Cloister belonging unto it.
fFemen'i \ observed that some of the women of this City do use
/"""""■ that feshion of plaiting their haire in two long locks hang-
[p. 459-] ing downe over their shoulders, as before in Zurich and
Basil. But it is not a quarter so much used here as in
Basil. As for those strange kinde of caps that the women
promiscuously with the men doe weare in Basil (as I have
before said) none of them are used here, but most of the
women, especially their Matrons doe weare very broad
OBSERVATIONS OF STRASBURG
ips made of doth, and furred, and many of them blacke
velvet caps of as great a bredth.
The battels that have been fought in former times neare Famoui
Strasbourg have not a little famoused the citie. For here heiilet.
fought the Emperour Julian the Apostata about the yeare
360. with the Allemanne forces, at what time eight of the
Allemanne Kings having united their power together, con-
veighed their armies over the Rhene, and incountred the
Emperour in this place, but with very unfortunate successe.
For the Romans got the victory of the Allemannes, and
tooke their corpulent King Chondomarius prisoner in bat-
tell. Againe about the space of twenty yeares after that
overthrow, the Emperor Gratian slew no lesse than thirty
thousand Alemannes neare this City. Also the Emperour
Philip that succeeded Henry the sixth, made warre against
Strasbourg about the yeare 1 200. and at last surprized the
same by torce of armes,
It was first converted to Christianity in the time of the Straiburg
Emperour Nero by the preaching of St. Maternus one of ^**'''"':"^"
the Disciples of St. Peter the Apostle, who was assisted in
that holy worke by his two companions Valerius and
Eucharius. But not long after that it renounced the
Christian religion, till the Bishops of the City of Mets
reconciled them again unto Christ, in regard whereof the
City continued a long time under the Diocesse of the
Bishop of Mets. But at last Dagobert King of France
created one Amandus a holy man of Aquitanie, Bishop of
Strasbourg about the yeare 630. and instituted a goodly
Bishoprick in the City, being then a member of the King-
dome of France (as I have before said) which he endowed
with most ample rents and revenewes. Ever since wHich [p. 460.]
time the City hath had a Bishop of her owne, the seate of
the present Bishop being the antient towne of Taberna
commonly called Zabernia in Alsatia ; where the Bishops
of Strasbourg have these many yeares made their residence.
The governement of Strasbourg hath beene often 5,rLLr/"
changed. For it was first subject to the Lords of the City
of Trevirs; after that to the Roman Empire, to whom it
CORYATS CRUDITIES
was tributarie for the space of five hundred yeares till the
time of the inclination thereof : this City being the seate
of residence for the Roman Lieutenant that was first con-
stituted here by Julius Cssar himselfe, and commonly
called Comes Argentoratensis, who resided here with a
garrizon of Soul£ers for the defence of the City against
the Germans, having the administration of al that tract of
Alsatia under the people of Rome, yet his authority was
subject to a superior Roman Gentleman that was resident
in Mentz, who was commonly called Dux Moguntinus.
Thirdly to the French men, especiaUy in the time of their
King Dagobert. But in processe of time it came into
the hands of the German Emperors, fi-om whose jurisdic-
tion being afterward in a manner exempted, it doth at this
day enjoy fuU Ubertie, a golden peace, and tranquiUtie of
estate, being governed after a most exceUent aristocraticaU
forme of common-weale, the particulars whereof I cannot
as yet report unto thee, because I spent so Uttle time in
the City, no more than one whole day, that I was not able
to informe my selfe so fiiUy in their govemment as I wished
to have done.
Tki reRgm The reUgion of the City is the same that the reformed
of Strasburg. Churches of Germanie doe embrace, which it hath evcr
most constantly professed unto this day since the maine
reformation begunne in Germanie shortly after Martin
Luthers oppugning of the venaU indulgences in the
Universitie of Wittemberg. The principall instaurators
[p. 461.] of the EvangeUcal doctrine in the city were those vaUant
champions of Jesus Christ Martin Bucer, Wolfangus Fab-
ricius Capito, and Gaspar Hedio. Whereof the two last
died in this City, and were here buried. But the present
reUgion professed among them is not altogether conform-
able unto ours in England. For they embrace the
Lutheran doctrine, wherein they difFer something from
our Church of England, as in the omni-presence of Christ,
the consubstantiation, &c.
Besides many other learned men of great note, five most
worthy ornaments of learning hath this famous citie bred,
194
OBSERVATIONS OF STRASBURG
with remembrance of whom I will end my description of
Strasbourg. These five were Joannes Sturmius, Joannes Fhe nast
Sleidanus, Jacobus Micyllus, Joannes Guinterius, and vimhy nma-
Joannes Piscator: which have much ennobled this City ^'""y
by their rare learning, The first partly by his honorable '^ ' * ' ■
Ambassages undertaken for the common-weale of Stras- I
bourg to divers forraine States, having spent nine yeares ^
amongst them : and partly by his excellent works, being
as sweet a Ciceronian as any University of Christendome
did yeeld. The second by his manifold learned bookes,
especially by that historie worthy of immortall praise
digested into sixe and twenty bookes (commonly called
his Commentaries) which he wrote concerning the state of
religion in Germanie, and those memorable accidents that
hapned in the Empire after the Coronation of Carolus
Quintus : both these men died in Strasbourg, and doe
there lie buryed. The third hath written many excellent
workes of great learning, which have purchased him
immortality of fame, The fourth is Joannes Guinterius
bome in the towne of Andernach situate by the Rhene,who
hath consecrated his name to posteritie as well as the rest ^ netabU
by his learned writings, He was a notable Physition, and "h""^-
learned Greeke reader in the University of this City : he
also died in this City, and was here buried, The fifth and
last Joannes Piscator {who when I was in Germanie was
alive, and fiourished with great fame of learning in the [p. 4,61.]
citie of Herborne, where he was publike reader of Divinity)
hath as much famoused this noble Citie with his learned
lucubrations as any of the foresaid writers, being such solid
workes of Divinitie as have exceedingly profited those
members of Christs Church which doe embrace the
reformed religion.
Thus much of Strasbourg.
IRemained in Strasbourg all Friday after eleven of the
clocke in the morning, and departed therehence the
Saturday following being the third day of September, about
cleven of the clocke in the morning, A little beyond the
CORYATS CRUDITIES
A nuU
bridgi over
the RMm,
EngRsh and
German
miles.
[P- 4^3.]
Hehetiany
Middle
GennM cnd
Netherland
miles.
townes end of Strasbourg I passed a wooden bridge made
over the Rhene that was a thousand four score and sixe
paces long. For I paced it. The longest bridge that ever
I passed. But it is nothing faire. For the boordes and
plankes are verie rudely compacted together. At one end
thereof there is erected a little hoiise, where a certaine
officer of the citv dwelleth, that remayneth continually there
at the receipt of custome to receive moneyof every stranger
that passetn that way for the maintenance of the bridge;
the common pay being something lesse then our EngBsh
farthing.
About sixe of the docke in the afternoone I came to a
Protestant towne called Litenawe, where I lay that night.
This towne is about sixteen English miles distant from
Strasbourg.
But because I will from henceforth cease to iise that
often repetition of this word English in the computation
of the German miles, I will exdude that word hereafter,
and put downe mile only: whereby I understand the
English mile, as much as if I did expresse the word.
For I am desirous to reduce the computation of the long
Dutch miles to our Engiish account. My reason is,
because as I have akeady cast up the generall summe of all
the miles betwixt the place where I was borne in Somerset-
shire and the Citie of Venice, and that according to our
English miles: so likewise I determine after I come to
the end of Germanie, or arrive at London, to cast up the
number of al the miles betwixt Venice and my coxmtry
according to our ordinarie miles of England. But because
a man cannot altogether so predsely and exactly reduce the
German miles to our English, as to say the space between
two such Cities or townes containeth just so many English
miles, neither more nor lesse: I doe therefore aime and
give the nearest conjecture that I can bv tracing of their
•ound. For this is my generall rule, to reduce an
[elvetian mile which is the longest of all the German
miles, to five Engiish, being in some places of Switzerland
as much as sixe of our miles : every mile betwixt the Cities
196
OBSERVATIONS OF LOWER BADEN
of Strasbourg and Mentz to foure English, those in that
space being called the middle German miles, which are
afterward almost as great in all that space betwixt the said
Citie of Mentz and Colen. And finally those of the ^h
Netherlands which beginne at the City of Colen, and are ^H
commonly esteemed the least miles of Germanie, to three ^^
English,
I departed from the foresaid Litenawe a little after seven
of the clock in the morning the next day being Sunday, LmiT Baden.
and came to the City of Baden the MetropoTis of the
Marquisate of Baden, about foure of the clocke in the
afternoone. This dayes journey was sixteene miles. I
found almost as great difficulty in finding out this Baden
so famous for her bathes, as 1 did when I went to the
bathes of Hinderhove neare the higher Baden, as I have
before mentioned. For by the way I had this mischance, ^h
that whereas I passed all the way betwixt these two places ^H
in woods and vast deserfs, glancing sometimes by meere •^V
chance upon some poore hamlet, I found the waies to be l«iricaie
so exceeding intricate, ihat after I had wandered almost °'^^'-
three miles about the wood alone by my selfe, at length [p- +64-]
to my great discontent I returned to a village where
I had beene about two houres before. So that I was for
the time in a kind of irremeable labynnth, not knowing
how to extricate my selfe out of it, till at the last an honest
clowne that dwelt thereabout in the country, brought me
into the right way, and gave me such certaine directions,
that after that time I missed my way no more betwixt that
and Baden.
About a mile and halfe on this side Baden I observed a
solitarie Monasterie situate in a wood : being desirous lO
see it I went to the place, and craved to enter into it, but I
could not by any meanes obtavne accesse into the house :
but one of the Friers (for here dwell five Franciscans of -^ kaipUablt
the Mendicant familie) to the end to give me some kinde '""''■
of recompence and amends for my repulse, like a very
good fellow bestowed upon me a profound draught of good
Rhenish wine, which gave great refection to my barking
k
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
stomache. A courtesie that I neither craved nor expected.
Also he told me that thcir fraternity was much infested by
the Lutheran faction of the coimtry. As I departed there-
hence towards Baden I met one of the foresaid five riding
homeward, who immediately retumed againe, and having
overtaken me he discovered his griefe unto me after a vcry
pensive and disconsolate manner. For he told me that he
A Breviarj had lost his Breviariimi, and asked me whethcr I had found
^^^ any such booke. This Breviarium is a certaine kindc of
jouu . Popish booke containing prayers to their Saints and other
holy meditations, which Fnests and Friers doe as firequently
use as we Protestants doe the Bible. The first of them that
I saw was in Venice. At last the Frier after very diligent
seeking having found his precious jewell, retumed home
once more, and when he met me, told me with a cheareftiU
coimtenance and mery heart that he had fovmd that for the
which he had before so much dejected his spirits.
[p. 465.] One notable accident happened unto me in my way a
little before I came to this Monastery and the citie of
Baden, of which I will here make mention before I writc
any thing of Baden. It was my chance to meetc two
RagffdBoors. downes commonly called Boores, who because they went
in ragged doathes, strooke no smail terrour into mee;
and by so much the more I was afraid of them, by how
much the more I found them armed with weapons, my
selfe being altogether unarmed, having no weapon at all
about me but onely a knife. Whereupon fearing least
they would eyther have cut my throate, or have robbed me
of my gold that was quilted in my jerkin, or have stripped
me of my dothes, which they would have found but a
poore bootie. For my dothes being but a threed-bare
tustian case were so meane (my doake onely excepted)
that the Boores could not have made an ordinary supper
with the money for which they should have sold them;
fearing (I say) some ensuing danger, I undertooke such a
Eolitike and subtile action as I never did before in all my
fe. For a iittle before I mette them, I put ofF my hat
very curteously unto them, holding it a pretty while in my
198
I
I
OBSERVATIONS OF LOWER BADEN
hand, and very humbly (like a Mendicant Frier) begged ^ ^'W^Z
somc money of them (as I have something declared in the ''"''"""""■
front of my booke) in a language that they did but poorely
understand, even the Latin, expressing my minde unto
them by such gestures and signes, that they wel! knew what
I craved of them : and so by this begging insinuation I
both preserved my selfe secure & free from the viotence of
the ciownes, and withal! obtained that of them which I
neither wanted or expected. For they gave me so much of
their dnne money called fennies (as poore as they were)
as paid for halfe my supper that night at Baden, even foure
pence halfe-peny,
My Observations of Baden. [p- 466]
"^His Citie is called the lower Baden in respect of the Loioer Baden.
higher Baden of Switzerland that I have already
described : both which are about 140 miles distant asunder. ^H
It is but little, being seated on the side of a hil!, well ^H
walled, and hath no more then two Churches, whereof one
is within the walJes, adjoyning to their Market place, being
dedicated to Saint Peter and Pau!, and was built by their
first Marquesse, as a learned man of the Citie told me,
The other standeth without the walles. The Citie is
invironed round about with hills greatly replenished with
wood. It is the capitall Citie or the countrie where it
standeth, which taketh her denomination from this citie,
being called the Marquisat of Baden. For there is a
Marquesse of this citie, and of the whole territorie Tht Mar^uen
belonging to the Marquisat, who is a soveraigne Prince rf^'^^'"-
of great power and authority. Sometime he keepeth his
Court in this citie, as in the winter time; the Palace of
his residence beeing a very sumptuous and Princely build-
ing. But all the Sommer time he is most commonly
residcnt partly at the towne of Turlowe a principall
member of his Dominion and Prlncipality, whereof I will
hereafter make relation ; and partly at his stately Castell of
Milberg which is about foure miles distant from the fore-
said Turlowe. AIso in former times their Prince was wont
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Thi MarqidS'
ate creatid
A,D. 1153.
[p. 467.]
A toUrant
Lutheran.
Baths ofgreat
antiquity.
to keepe his Court in a certaine ancient Gistell of great
strength that I saw eastward standing upon the side of a
hill, and distant some halfe mile from the citie. A place
of great antiquity.
The Marquisate of this Citie and the circumjacent terri-
torie was first instituted by the Emperour Barbarossa about
the yeare of our Lord 1 153. who created one Hermannus
an Italian Nobleman of the citie of Verona, and a kinsman
of his, the first Marquesse. A higher dignity thcn his
predecessours of that country enjoyea, who mtituled them-
selves no more then Earles of Baden. The said Herman-
nus inlarged this princely title by the addition of another
Marquisate, namely that of Hochberg in Brisgoia, not
farre from the citie of Friburg, both which Marquisates he
attained unto by the mamage of a certaine German
Countesse whose name was Judith. Since which time
all the succeeding Princes of Baden have ever stiled
themselves Marquesses of Baden & Hochberg, to the
present Prince Frederick now livinc;. This Prince is a
Protestant, but of the Lutheran r^gion. A man that
granteth full liberty of conscience to those his subjects that
wil not be reclaimed from the Popish religion ; so that he
sufFereth Masses, and such other Papisti^ ceremonies in
this citie of Baden (which I understood to be wholy
Popish) without any such restraint as other German
Princes doe use, especially the Count Palatine of Rhene
& the Lansgrave of Cassia, who (as I have heard) do not
permit any exercise of the Romish Religion in any part of
their Dominions.
But having thus far digressed from my discourse of
Baden, upon the occasion or mentioning the first institution
of the Marquisate & the religion of tne present Prince, I
will now returne to the description of the city. There
is one thing that maketh this citie very famous, namely
the Bathes, which are of great antiquity. For authors doe
write that they were found out in the time of Marcus
Antoninus surnamed Philosophus the seventeenth Emper-
our of Rome, about the yeare of our Lord 160. who was
aoo
OBSERVATIONS OF LOWER BADEN
so delighted with the bathes of this place that he built the
citie for their sakes. Truly they are very admirable for
two respects. First for the heate. Secondly for the raulti-
tude. As for the heate it is so extreme that I beleeve they
are the hottest of all Christendome, especially at their
fountaines, whereof I myself had some experience. For
I did put my hand to one of the springs, which was so hot [p- 468.]
that I could hardly endure to handle the water, being of
that force that it would scald my fingers very grievously if Scalding hi
I had suffered it to runne upon them tiU I had but told "'""'■
twenty, Yea the heate is so vehement, that it is reported
it will seeth egges, and make them as ready to be eaten
as if they were boyled in water over the fire. Also if onc
should cast any kinde of bird or pigge into the water at thc
original spring, where it is much hotter then in the bathes
thcmselves that are derived from the same, it will scalde
off the feathers from the one, and the haire from the other.
Likewise the multitude of them is marvailous, which I
will report, though many incredulous persons will (I
beleeve) applie the old proverbe unto me, that travellers
may lie by authority, The number of them I heard doth
amount to three hundred severall bathes at the least.
Which I did much the more wonder at because when I
was at the bathes of Hinderhove by the Helvetical Baden,
I saw so great a company there, even sixty (which I
esteemed a marvailous number in comparlson of the few-
nesse of our English bathes at the City of Bathe in my
country of Somersetshire, where wee have no more then
five) that I thought there were not so many particular
bathes so neare together in any one towne of Europe.
But in this lower Baden the number of them is so exceed- Thue
ingly multiplied, that it will seeme almost incredible to hmdred bsihs
many men that have ever contained themselves within "' "'''*''■
the limits of their owne native soyle, and never saw the
wonders of forraine regions. For whereas the bathes of
the lower Baden are distinguished by severall Innes, in
number thirteene, but after an unequall manner, so that
some Innes have more and some lesse : that Inne wherein
\
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
I la7) which was at the signe of the golden Lyon, contained
more bathes then ail these foresaid threescore of Hinder-
hove. For in the same Inne were no lesse then threescore
& five severall Bathes, as a learned man told me that laie in
[p. 469.] a house adjoyning to my Inne. All these bathes are
devided asunder by a great many roomes of the house,
and covered over head ; the space that is limited for each
bath being square and very narrow, so that in one and the
selfe same roome I observed foure or five distinct bathes.
All these bathes are of an equaU heate, none hotter or
colder then an other. Also I heard that they are tnost fre-
quented in the Sommer time, contrary to our English
bathes & tho^ at Hinderhove, which are used only at the
spring and autume. The water of the bathes is mingled
with matter of three severall kindes, brimstone, salt, and
alume, as Munster writeth : unto whome I am beholding
for this short ensuing discourse of the vertue of these
bathes, as I was before in the description of the bathes of
Hinderhove. Those that have tried them have found the
Tkevirtues vertue of them to be very soveraigne for the curing of
rfthibaths. jiiygj.s diseases, as the asthma^ which is an infirmity that
proceedeth from the difficulty of the breath, the moistnesse
of the eyeS) the crampe, the coldnesse of the stomacke, the
paine of the liver and the spleene proceeding fi-om cold;
also it helpeth the dropsie) the griping of the bowels, the
stone, the sterility of women : It appeaseth the paine of a
womans wombe, keepeth ofF the white menstruous matter,
asswageth the swelling of the thighes, cureth the itch and
blisters or whelkes rismg in any part of the body ; and to
be short, it is said to be of greater efficacie for curing of the
gowte then any other bathes whatsoever either of Germany
Sr any other country of Christendome. ^
I saw one thing in this citie that I did not in any other
place of Germany. For that morning that I went ther-
hence, I saw a muster of a band of gallant soldiers in the
Market place.
Thus much of Baden in the Marquisate, commonly
called lower Baden.
202
OBSERVATIONS OF ETTLINGEN
IDeparted from Baden about eight of the clocke in the [?■ i7<^-]
morning of the fifth day of September being munday,
and came to the towne of Turlowe eighteene miles beyond
it, about sixe of the clocke in the afternoone. The things
that I observed betwixt these two places are these. After
I was passed a few miles beyond Baden, I survayed an
exceeding pleasant and fruitfuU country full of corne //f ""^
fieldes, whereof some are so ample, especially one that l -^ ''
noted above the rest, that it confayneth at the least sixe
times as much in compasse (according to my estimation)
as the best corne field of that famous mannour of Martock
in Somersetshire neere to the parish of Odcombe where I
was borne. AIso that country is passing even and plaine,
and wonderfiilly replenished with wood. The townes
betwixt any cities I finde to be very frequent and iaire,
having gates, and some of them walls. One towne I
passed betwixt Baden and Turlowe, calJed Etlingen, that Eitfingen.
is very memorable for the antiquity thereof. For accord-
ing to a faire inscription lately written in the towne wall
necre to one of their gates, it appeareth that it was built
about MCX yeares before Christs incarnation. It much
grieved me that a certaine occasion called me away so
suddenly that it deprived me of the opportunity to write
it out, otherwise I had ranked that with these memorables
of Germany. In this towne was that famous Historio-
grapher Francis Irenicus borne, who hath written twelve
bookes of the German Cities. I observed also marvailous M<3n-e//Bui
abundance of fruits in the Marquisate of Baden, especially IT '""''?'
of peares, insomuch that the very hedges in the high-way
neere to any towne or village have great store of peare
trees growing in them. Likewise I noted a wonderfiil
great company of frogges in most places of this territory,
especially in their Lakes, So that a man can hardly walke
by any lake but he shall see great abundance of frogs leape
into the water out of the bankes wherein they shrowd
themselves. I observed also likewise in most places not
only of this territory but also in most of the other parts tp- 47 '0
of high Germany neare to any Towne or Village, an extra-
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Great ordinary great quantity of cabbages, colcworts, turnips,
^^t^li ^^ radishes, which are sowen in their open fields, where
' are to be seene hundreds of acres sowen in one of their
fields. I never saw the like either in France or Italie.
For their store is so great that I am perswaded they have a
hundred times more of these commodities than we in
England, though equall and indifferent quantity of groimd
be opposed to each other. Moreover I perceived that
because God hath so plentifuUy blessed them with these
commodities, that they are not such niggards of them as
to watch them in the field, to the end to preserve them
from strangers, but rather they give free leave to any
passengers to trespasse them, by going boldly into their
ground, and taldng a convenient quantity of these things
tor their owne use. For their turnips and radishes are so
toothsome and pleasing to the palate, that I have often
seene many a poore traveller with a fiu^thing loafe in his
hand (for bread is so cheape in many places of Germany,
especiaUy in some of the higher parts, that a man may buy
a convenient loafe for two of their little tin coynes caUed
fennies that value but Httle more then an EngUsh farthing)
goe into their common fields, and take so many turnips and
radishes out of a plot, that he hath made an indifferent
meale to satisfie nature, & asswage hunger for one poore
farthing ; though his meale in an Inne or victuaUing house
might perhaps cost him twenty times as much how thrifty
soever he werc.
I could sec no Snaile in aU Germanie but red, Uke those
that I saw a Uttle on this side the Alpes in Savoy, as I
have before writtcn. In every part of the country I espied
Hemp great store of hemp which the women do beate out of^ the
beattrs. strannes with certayne prety instruments made of wood
[p. 472.] (such as I have before mentioned in my description of the
Grisons country) not decorticating it, or as we caU it in
Somersetshire scaling it with their fingers, with that
extreme labour and difficulty as our Engfish women doe.
I never saw country so weU wooded (Lombardie only
excepted) as aU this territory betwixt Baden and Turlowe,
204
OBSERVATIONS OF TURLOWE
the Martian Forrest otherwisc calfcd Nigra Silva, so spoken
of in many authors, spreading it self over the country,
through part whereof I have travelled. Also I attribute
very much to all the other parts of Germanle that I
travelled through for singular plenty of wood.
My Observations of Turlowe.
THey are so strict in Turlowe for the admittance of TurleKt.
strangers into the towne, the gates being continually
guarded with Halberdiers appointed for the same purpose,
that a stranger can very hardiy obtaine the fevour to come
into the towne, So that before I could enter within the
gates, I was constrained to send certaine testimonies that I
had about me to the Prefect of the Princes Court, whom 1
found afterward to be a very courteous and affable Gentle-
man, and one that used me very graciously.
This is a very prety towne, though but little, situate in
a most fruitfull playne, having on the North-east-side a
certaine hill that is planted round about as full with vine-
yards as can be. Upon the top of this hill standeth a very T/ie Tmer of
high and eminent tower which in some places of Germanie Turlatet.
is to be seene at the least forty miles off as I thinke. From
this tower hath the towne his name, being called in Latin
Turlacum from the Latin word turris, which signifieth a
towcr. The Emperor Rodolph that was Earle of Habs-
purg before his inauguration to the Empire, conquered this [p. 473.]
tower together with the towne, at what time he made warre
upon the Marquesse of Baden. This towne was added lo
the Marquisate by the Emperour Frederick the second,
who out of his imperial bounty bestowed the same upon
the Prince for the better inlarging of his territory. The
towne is well walled, adorned with faire gates, and with A/ah mbh.
one streete amongst the rest that yeeldeth a beautifiill shew,
even the same wherein the Princes Palace standeth, the
houses being of a goodly heigth. The religion of the
towne is Lutheran according to that of their Prince, the
principall Pastor being intitled the Superintendent of Tur-
lowe. AIso the towne is beautified with a goodly schoole
CORYAT S CRUDITIES
^ki Paiaci of which yeeldeth a notable Seminarie of learning. For
urkwi. therein are read most of the liberall sciences. The Princes
house is a very magnificent and beautifuU Palace, but it
was not my good hap to survay the inward beauty thereof .
For no strangers can be permitted to enter into any of the
German Princes Palaces without great difficulty, whcreof
I had experience againe afterward at Heidelberg at the
Court of the Count Palatine of Rhene. The Prince of
Baden was not resident in Turlowe when I was there, but
at his stately Castell of Milberg five miles from it, where
with certaine German Earles and divers other noblemen
of the country, he solaced himselie at hunting of Deere.
I saw the Castell a farre ofF, which seemed to be a building
of great strength and magnificence.
Thus much of Turlowe.
IDeparted fi-om Turlowe the sixth day of September
being Tuesday about eleven of the clodke in the mom-
ing, and came to a solitary house standing in the middle
way betwixt Turlowe and Heidelberg, about seven of the
clocke in the evening, where I lay that night. This house
was fourteene miles beyond Turlowe. After I had travelled
>• 474-] a quarter of a mile beyond Turlowe, I observed a matter
thousand ^^at made me wonder. For I saw almost a thousand hay-
ymakirs. makers dispersed abroade in severall great meadowes about
the towne. The like I observed aU that day in my joumey
forward. At the first sight of this I imagined that it was
their only hay-harvest, and that they had not mowed their
meadowes at all before that time : but after more mature
consideration of the matter, when as I called to my remcm-
brance the late hay-harvest that I saw in Switzerland about
thirteene dayes before, I conceived that it was their second
harvest. For the fertilitie of their meadowes is such that
they mow them twise in a Sommer. The like whereof I
have noted in sundry places of England : but in Germanie
it is much more common then witn us, in so much that I
thinke they use it a hundred to one more then we in
England.
ao6
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
I departed from the foresaid solitary house the seventh
day or September being Wednesday about sixe of the
clocke in the niorning, and came to the noble City of
Heidelberg twelve miles beyond it about noone, being
almost wet to the skinne with a vehement shower of raine.
■ ^- My Observations of Heidelberg.
^^P Julius Cfesar Scaliger hath written these verses upon
^^P Heidelberg.
NObilis Imperio Franconia dextra potenti
Belligero nulli Marte secunda viget.
^^ Cum victis ab se pepulit vectigal Alanis,
^^L Libera Germano nomine Franca fuit.
^^M Nec contenta suis angustis finibus (illi
^^L Quse par virtuti terra fiitura foret?)
^^K Egreditur : superat. Germani 6 pectus honoris.
^^^ Victoris victos nomina ferre sat est,
^^K Non aliunde venis, Francusve est Hectoris ullus.
^^M Quid petis k victo stemmata ? tota tua es.
^^^ The territorie wherein this City standeth is called the
lower County Palatine, or the lower Palatinate (whereof
Heidelberg is the Metropolitan City) a very fertill soile,
especially the plaine part thereof that yeeldeth abundance
or all necessaries for the sustenance of man, as store of
wheate of the finest sort, barlie, coleworts, cabbages,
turnips, and radishes, such as I have before spoken of in
the Marquisate of Baden. This Plaine is fairely beautified
with goodly meadowes and pastures also which do feede
plenty of fat bullocks, and sheepe. Likewise the hilly
part is plentiflilly furnished with vineyardes and chest-nut
trees, & much frequented with Deere, Goates, and Kids.
Neare the City great store of Hearnes doe nestle them-
selves in the woods upon the hils. This short discourse
of fhe commodities of the territorie I thought good to
prefixe before my description of the City by way of an
introduction to the ensuing Treatisc. Therefbre now I
will relate the particular matters of the City it selfe. And
ao7
1
StaSffr'i
[p- 47 SO
Heidflberg
ihe Mtfro-
psStan cily of
ike lotver
Palatinate.
I
CORYATS CRUDITIES
^itymokgy I will dcrive my beginning from the etymologie of thc
Heidelherg. name. Some derive this word Heidelberg from Heydel-
ber which doth signifie black-berries, such as doe grow
upon brambles, because in former times there were more
of them growing about this City then in any other part
of the country. Some from Heydelbeern, that is, m^tle
trees, which doe yet grow plentifully upon the hilles about
the City. Of this opinion is that learned Paulus Melissus,
who calleth Heidelberg urbem myrtileti. Againe there
are others that draw the name from the Dutch word
Heyden, that sifirnifieth a Nation, because this place was
ever wel inhabited with people by reason of tlTe oppor-
tunity of the seate. Moreover there are some that affirme
it is called Heidelberg quasi Adelberg, that is, a noble
47^] City, in regard of the nobility, the elegancie, and swect-
nesse of the situation thereof . Whererore seeing there is
so great diversity of opinions amongst the leamed about
the derivation or the name, I will not dispute the matter
which is best or worst, but referre it to be discussed by
the learned censure of the judicious reader. Truly the
situation thereof is very delectable and pleasant. For it
standeth in convalli inter fauces montium, that is, in a
narrow valley which is on both sides beset with hils, and
those very commodious. For they are planted with many
fruitfull vineyards. Also it is most pleasantly watered
f river with the famous river Neccarus, otherwise called Nicrus,
kMT. ^j^j runneth by the north side of the City. And it is of
so great note, that they commonly esteeme it the third
river of Germany next to the Danubius and the Rhene.
It riseth in Suevia even in the black Forrest which is called
in Latin Nigra Sylva about the space of foure hoiires
joxirney from the fountaine of Danubius, and at len^th
exonerateth it selfe into the Rhene, being before multipked
with some other rivers, as the Cocharus and the laxus,
which doe infuse themsdves into the Neccar not farre from
the towne of Wimpina in Suevia abovesaid. I observed
a goodly wooden bridge built over the Neccar, the fairest
certainly that I saw m Germany, but not the longest,
ao3
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
supported with sixe huge stony pillars strongly rammed
into the water, and very feirely covered over head with an
arched roof of timber-worke. At the farther end whereof
there standeth a feire tower on the banke of the Neccar
which doth very much beautifie the bridge. This river is
very commodious to the City of Heidelberg in two
respects. First for that being navigable it carieth a kind Boorion thi
of rude boate called of the Latines ratis (such as I have *
seene in divers other places of Germany, and also in
France, used upon their greater rivers for carrying of hay,
timber, wood, &c.) which is most commonly laden partly
with timber for building, and partly with wood for fire that
commeth out of the Forrest called Ottonica a part of the [p- +77j'
Hercynia not farre from the city of Heidelberg; and by
this Neccar the said commodities are brougnt first to
Heidelberg for the furnishing of the City, and from that
to the Rhene, wherewith it mingleth it selfe a little on this
side Spira, and therehence to all the westerne Cities and
townes situate on both sides of the Rhene as iarre as the
towne of Bing. Secondly, because it ministreth great
abundance of good fishes to the City, espedally the delicate
barbils.
The City is strongly walled, and hath foure faire gates The City.
in the walles, and one very goodly streete above the rest
both for breadth and length. For it is at the least an
English mile long : and garnished with many beautifull
houses, whereof some have their fronts feirely painted,
which doe yeeld ati cxcellent shew. Also it hath sixe
Churches. Namely that of the holy Ghost : St. Peters:
The Church in the Princes Palace : the French Church : a
Church in the suburbes : And the Predicatorie church
which belonged once to the Dominican Friers. But the
Church of the hoiy Ghost which adjoyneth to their great
market place, is the fiiirest of all, being beautified with
two singular ornaments above the other Churches that doe
greatly grace the same : the one the Palatine Librarie, the
other the monuments of their Princes. The Palatine TAr Pakiiu
Librarie is kept by that most excellent and generall Schollar ^'^'''"y-
[
i
CORYATS CRUDITIES
[p. 478.]
A sckolarly
Ubrarian.
Mr. Janus Gruterus the Princes Bibliothecarie, of whom
I have reason to make a kind and thankeful mention,
because I received great favours of him in Heidelberg.
For he entertained me very courteously in his house,
shewed me the Librarie, and made meanes for my admis-
sion into the Princes Court. Well hath this man deserved
of the common-weale of good letters, because he hath
much benefited and illustrated it by his elegant workes,
as his Animadversions upon all the workes of Seneca the
Philosopher, and his Fax artium, which though it be
nothing but the compiling together of other mens workes,
yet the singular industrie that he hath shewed in it together
with his fine methode, doth deserve no small praise. A
man that for his exquisite learning hath beene received into
the friendship of some of the greatest SchoUars of
Christendome, especially of Justus Lipsius, betwixt whom
divers elegant Epistles have passed that are published to
the world. I observed him to be a very sweet and
eloquent discourser. For he speaketh a most elegant and
true Ciceronian phrase which is graced with a facill &
expedite deliverie. In so much that I dare parallell him
in a manner for the excellency of his Latin tongue with
Mr. Grynaeus of Basil whom I have before so much
extolled. But I will cease to praise my friend Mr.
Gruterus, because his owne worth doth more truly com-
mend him then I shall ever be able to doe with my
inelegant stile, and so I will returne to that famous Pala-
tine Librarie. It is built over the roofe of the body of
the Church. A place most beautifull, and divided into
two very large and stately roomes that are singular well
furnished with store of bookes of all faculties. Here are
so many auncient manuscripts, especially of the Greeke
manuscripts. ^nd Latin Fathers of the Church, as no Librarie of jJl
Christendome, no not the Vatican of Rome nor Cardinall
Bessarions of Venice can compare with it. Besides there
is a great multitude of manuscripts of many other sorts,
in so much that Mr. Gruterus told he could shew in this
Librarie at the least a hundred more manuscripts then
Ancient
210
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
Mr. James the publique Bibliothecarie o{ Oxford could in
his famous Universitie Librarie, For what bookes that
Librarie halh or hath not he knoweth by Mr. James his
Index or Catalogue that was printed in Oxford. Amongst
other bookes that he shewed me one was a feire large
parchment booke written by the great grandfather of
Fredericke the fourth that was the Count Palatine when
I was there. Truly the beauty of this Librarie is such
both for the notable magnificence of the building, and [p. .^.79.]
the admirable variety of bookes of all sciences and
languages, that I beleeve none of those notable Libraries ^.^^
in ancient times so celebrated by many worthy historians, ' '^"^"
neither that of the royall Ptolomies of Alexandria, burnt
by Julius CtEsar, not that of King Eumenes at Pergamum
in Greece, nor Augustus his Palatine in Rome, nor Trajans
Ulpian, nor that of Serenus Sammonicus, which he left
to the Emperor Gordianus the yonger, nor any other what-
soever in the whole world before the time of the invention
of printing, could compare with this Palatine, Also I
attribute so much unto it that I give it the precedence
above all the noble Libraries I saw in my travels, which
were especially amongst the Jesuits in Lyons, Spira, and
Mentz. Howbeit Mr. Gruterus will pardon me I hope
if I preferre one Librarie of my owne nation before tne
Palatine, even that of our renowned University of Oxford,
whereof fhe foresaid Mr. James is a keeper. For indeede
I beleeve it containeth a few more books (though not
many) then this of Heidelberg. There hapned one
disaster unto me when I was in this Librarie. For shortly ^ diiiiiier.
after I came within it, and had survayed but a few of the
principall bookes, it chanced that two yong Princes of
Anhalt which are descended from the most ancient Princely
femily of all Germanie, came suddenly into the roome
upon me, being usherd by their golden-chained Gentle-
men. Whereupon I was constrained to withdraw my selfe
speedily out of the Librarie, all the attendance being given
unto the Princes : by which sinister accident I lost the
opportunity of seeing those memorablc antiquities and
I
M(muments in
OeCkMrck
CORYATS CRUDITBES
rarities which Mr. Gruterus intended to have oommuni-
cated unto me, and so consequendy I my selfe the same
to my coimtry. Let this therefore suffice fbr the Pahtine
Librarie.
The second omament of this Church of the Holy Ghost
is the Chappel wherein the monuments of their Princes
[p. 480.] are contained. This standeth at the East end of the
Church, being a most elegant roome, and is indosed on
one side with certaine yron dores made lattise-wise, and
for the most part locked, that I could not procure the
meanes to see them, my leamed friend Maister Gruterus
being busie with the foresaid young Princes. Therefbre
for these monuments I must trast my eares (the worst
IfATn^ witnesses) rather thcn my eyes. There I heard werc
Ghosu buried these Princes, Rupertus Senior Duke of Bavaria,
Count Palatine of Rhene, and King of the Romanes, the
founder of the Church of the holy Ghost ; and his wife
Elizabeth, who dyed about the yeare 1410. also two
Counts Palatine Rodolphus & Ludovicus under one altar,
whereof the first died anno 1209. and the other 13 19.
againe Frederick that died in the yeare 1476. also Wol-
phangus Count Palatine of Rhene that died in the yeare
1558. All these lye within the said Chappell with other
Princes and Princesses. But the Epitaphes which I thinke
are elegant to grace the memory of so great persons, I
could not obtaine. Notwithstanding what is wantin^; of
those Epitaphes within the Chappell, shall be a Etde
supplyed with one most excellent Epitaph that I found in
the body of the Church written upon thc monimient of
Philip Count Paktine of Rhene, one of their worthiest
Princes, who was very famous in his life time for many
memorable acts, especially for freeing the noble citie
Vienna from the sicge of the Turkes. Seeing I was
fhistrated of the other Princes Epitaphes in the Chappell
which I hoped to have brought with me into Englsuid,
being very unwiUing to leesc this also which I saw was
worthy the carrying over thc Sea, I apprehended it with
my pen while the Preacher was in his pulpit : for I doubted
212
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
least if I had differred it till the end of the sermon, the
dores might have bene sodainly shut, & so I should have
bin defeated of the opportunity. The monument it selfe
is in that side of the Church where the pulpit standeth,
being inserted into one of the main pillers ot the church,
and mvironed round about with a pretty inclosure or rayle
made of yron worke. There is represented his Statue at
length carved in milke-white Alabaster with his glittering
Armour gilted, holding a short Pole-axe in his right hand,
and a sword in his left ; that part of the monument where
his Statue standeth, is wonderfull curiously wrought with
very exquisite workcs in stone, wherein are represented
many pretty histories. At the toppe are erected his armes
and scutchin. Under the which, betwixt his armes and
the higher part of his Statue, his Epltaphe is written in
touchstone. It seemeth a double Epitaph. For one is
X^tin, and the other Dutch. The Latin after these tedious
preambles I do now at length present unto thee.
Csetera qui circum lustras monumenta viator,
Hsec quoque non longa est perlege pauca mora.
Si ducis audita est forsan tibi tama Philippi,
Clara Palatinte quem tulit Aula domus :
Qui modo Pannoniam defendit ab hoste Viennam,
Et solvit trepidos obsidione viros ;
Tunc cum Threicii vastarent omnia Turcas,
Et tremerent subito Norica regna metu.
Mox etiam implevit magnum virtutibus orbem,
Utilis hinc armis, utiGs inde toga.
Illius hac tegitur corpus venerabile terra,
Hic animam, hic vitam reddidit ille Deo.
Qu6 te si pietas, si quid movet inclyta virtus,
Junctaque cum summa nobilitate fides :
Huic opta ut cineres placida cum pace quiescant,
Condita nec tellus durior ossa premat.
Nam pius ad cceli sublatus spiritus arces,
Cum Christo vivit tempus ii
Decessit 4. Non. Julii
Anno Dom. M. D. Xlviii.
Mcnuintn/ M
Couvf Philip.
S..]
I
CORYATS CRUDITIES
^tatis sua: Xliii. cujus P. F. MemoriiE Dux
Otto Henricus Cotnes Palatinus
[p. 481.] Frater amantissimus M. H. F. C.
Anno Dom. M. D. L.
Thus much concerning the Church of the Holy Ghost.
BEsides this foresaid Church, there are two things more
which doe very notably adorne and beautifie this
stately Citie, the first the most gorgious Palace of the
Prince, which is commonly called in Dutch Das curfijr
stelich Sloss. The second, the famous University. The
Tie Priiuei pnnces Palace I will first speake of, It is exceeding
difficult fcr a stranger to enter into one of the Germane
Princes Courts (as I have before said in my description
of Turlowe) except he hath some friend living in the same,
which I found verified by mine owne experience at the
Count Palatines Court. For I could not possibly be
admitted without some speciall and extraordinary favour,
which was this. Master Gruterus understanding by my
owne report that I was acquainted with our noble Ambas-
sadour Sir Henry Wotton then resident with the Signiorie
of Venice, the lame of whose excellent learning and
generose qualities hath greatly spread itselfe in Heideiberg
(for there hath he beene heretofore, and Honorably enter-
tained at the Princes Court) counselled me to goe to a
learned Doctor of the Civill Lawe dwelling in the Citie,
whose name was Master Lingelsemius, heretofore Tutor
to Fredericke the fourth, who was then the Count
Palatine when I was in Heidelberg, (and therfore
the better able to procure his fi-iend accesse to the
Court) and a familiar acquaintance of Sir Henry
Wotton. Whereupon t repaired to his house, insinu-
ating my selfe partly with a token fi-om Master Gruterus,
and partly by the meanes of Sir Henry Wottons
name, which was so acceptable unto him, that he enter-
tained me after a very debonaire and courteous maner,
and sent one of his men with mee to the Prefect of the
[p. 48J.] Princes Court, who gave me admittance into the Palacc;
Masler
LiyffUmim
Doctor of
Clvil Law.
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
I noted the situation thereof to be very pleasant. For it PalaeeBf
is seated at the South side of the Citie upon the side of ^"'^'^"'^-
an eminent hill, having as sweete an ayre as any Palace
whatsoever in all Germanie. At the foote of the same
hill on the left hand, there is a very faire building, which
serveth for the Chancerie house of the Palatinate, wherein
matters of controversie are handled ; and from thence
there is a very tedious & difficult ascent by a steepe stonie
way to the Palace it selfe. I learned at the Court that
there was heretofore an other Palace besides this, situated
upon the very top of the same hill, which hapned to bc
utterly destroyed in the yeare 1537. as it appeareth by
certaine elegant Elegiacal verses that worthy Jacabus
Micyllus of the Citie of Strasburg, wrote to liis learned
friend Joachimus Camerarius about the yeare and day of
the ruine thereof, by a certaine memorable yet rufuU
accident ; for the fire of heaven it selfe consumed it, The r-*' Palate
Telum trisulcum Jovis {I meane the lightning) striking <^""^,'-^ h
casuaily a heape or Lrunpowder tnat was kept m a certauie J £f , .,_
roome of the Palace, which no sooner tooke fire, but
immediately in the very twinckling of an eye it burnt up
the whole building, and scattered the stones (a most
lamentable spectade to behold) ferre asunder, some downe
to the present Palace where the Prince now dwelleth, and
some to the Citie, to the great detriment of both places.
The ruines of the same palace are yet shewed (as I heard)
upon the top of the hill. But now I will returne againe
to the Princes palace where he keepeth his residence ; every
thing that I saw there did yeeld matter of speciall marke
and magnificence. The fiither of Fredericke the fourth,
and Prince Fredericke hjmselfe have beene great builders,
His father built all the part of the Palace on the left hand
of the first Court, which is beautified with a very stately
frontispice, and distinguished with great varietie of not-
able workmanship. But Prince Fredericke hath built an [p. 48^.]
other part of the Palace which doth farre excell that ; even
all that gorgeous buildlng at the entrance, which by reason
of the most admirable and rare sumptuousnesse of the
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Architecture, beinfi; built all with square stone, and gar-
nished with goomy statues, do(h adde infinite grace
w/ oftki to that part of the Palace. Both the Fronts of the
*^'' Palace whereof I now speake, as well that without
looking towards the Citie, as the other within to-
wards the Court, doe present workmanship of great
state, as I have ak^dy said. But there is great
difference betwixt them. Fcm- the inward front is much
more glorious and resplendent then the other. The
principall omament that graceth it, is the multitude of
laire statues (which the outward Front wanteth) very
loftily advanced towards the fairest part of the Court,
whereof there are foure distinct degrees or Series made
one above another. The same statues are carved in a
singular faire milk-white stone, which seemeth as beauti-
fulT as the fairest Alabaster, and formed in a very large
proportion, expressing all the parts of a mans body, and
done with that artificial curiositie, that I beleeve were those
famous statuaries Polycletus and Praxiteles alive againe,
they wovdd praise the same, and confesse they were not
able to amend them. For they imitate the true naturall
countenance and living shape of those heroicall and
Princely Peeres, whom they represent. Most of them
airstatues. are the statues of the famous Palatine Princes to the last
of them Fredericke the fourth. Also Emperoxirs, Kings
and Queenes are there poiu^trayed. This Front is raysed
to a very great height, and decked with marveilous curious
devices at the top, all which ornaments concurring together
doe exhibite to the eyes of the spectator a sncw most
incomparable. Truely for my owne part I was so exceed-
ingly delighted with the sight of this rare frontispice, that
I must needes confesse I attribute more unto it, not out
). 485.] of any partiall humoiu" or overweening phantasie, but
according to the upright sinceritie of an impartiall opinion,
then to the Front of any Paiace whatsoever I saw in
France, Italy or Germanie. Yea, I will not doubt to
derogate so much from the Fronts of the French Kings
palaces which I saw both in Paris and Fountaine Beleau ;
216
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
of the Duke of Venice, of that exquisite building before
mentioned which belongeth to one of the sixe Companies
or Fraternities of Venice, adjoyning to St. Roches Church,
where I heard that heavenly musicke ; so much I say doe ^Si
I derogate from the fronts of al these Palaces, that the i^H
fairest of them doth vale bonnet (in my opinion) to this ^l
royall inward fronf of the Count Palatines Palace. The
lower part of the same front doth containe one of those
sixe Churches whereof I have before made mention, viz.
The Courtly Church, where the Prince & his family of the T^'
Court heareth divine service and sermons, and the higher
part many gorgeous roomes for the Princes use: wherein
many noble Peeres of Germanie and France solaced them-
selves when I was at the Court, the number of whom
was so great that I heard there were then resident at the
court forty worthy personages of great note out of both
Nations, besides their foUowers, Gentlemen that ruffled it
very gaUantly. But to conclude my narration of this part
of the Palace, certainly it is so regall a structure that I
conjecture it cost at the least forty thousand pounds
sterling. This Prince hath newly built a very stately
long porch also at the entrance of the Palace, which was
not throughly finished when I was there.
There is a notable thing to be seene in this Palace, the
sight whereof it was not my hap to enjoy, because I heard
nothlng of it before I went out of the Palace : a matter
of great antiquity. Namely certaine ancient stony pillars, ,' A, fy,„
in number five, which the Emperor Carolus Magnus above iiajy.
eight hundred and fifty yeares since brought from the City
or Ravenna in Italie, and placcd them afterward in his [p. +86.]
Palace of Ingelheim a place of hjgh Germany within a few
miles of the City of Mentz, where he was borne, and
oftentimes kept his Court. The same pillars were of late
yeares removed from the said Ingelheim to Heidelberg
by the Prince Phihp of whom I have before made mention
in my discourse of the Church of the holy Ghost, who
erected them in this Palace whereof 1 now speake, and are
there shewed for a principall ancient monument to this day.
CORYATS CRUDITIES
But some of the Gentlemen of the Princes family did
sufficiently recompence my losse of the sight of these
ancient pillars by shewing me a certayne peece of worke
'^fffS^a^ that did much more please my eies then the sight of those
^ ^' pillars covdd have done. For it is the most remarkable
and famous thing of that kinde that I saw in my whole
journey, yea so memorable a matter, that I thinke there
was never the like fabrick (for that which they shewed me
was nothing else than a strange kinde of fabrick) in all the
world, and I doubt whether posterity will ever frame so
monstrously strange a thing : it was nothing but a vessel
full of wine. Which the Gentlemen of the Court shewed
me after they had first conveighed me into divers wine
cellars, where I saw a wondrous company of extraordinary
great vessels, the greatest part whereof was replenished
with Rhenish wine, the totall number contayning one
hundred and thirty particulars. But the maine vessel
above all the rest, that superlative moles unto which I now
bend my speech, was shewed me last of all standing alone
by it selfe in a wonderfull vast roome. I must needes
say I was suddenly strooken with no smail admiration
upon the first sight thereof . For it is such a stupendious
masse (to give it the same epitheton that I have done
before to the beauty of St. Marks streete in Venice) that
I am perswaded it will affect the gravest and constantest
Ont ofthe man in the world with wonder. Had this fabrick beene
woH^s oftMe extant in those ancient times when the Colossus of Rhodes,
the Labyrinths of -^gypt and Creta, the Temple of Diana
[p. 487.] at Ephesus, the hangmg gardens of Semiramis, the Tombc
of Mausolus, and the rest of those decantated miracles did
flourish in their principail glory, I thinke Herodotus and
Diodorus Siculus would have celebrated this rare worke
with their learned stile as well as the rest, and have con-
secrated the memory thereof to immortaiity as a very
memorable miracle. For indeede it is a kinde of mon-
strous miracle, and that of the greatest sise for a vessell
that this age doth yeeld in any place whatsoever (as I am
verily perswaded) under the cope of heaven, Pardon me
218
I
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
I pray thee (gentle Reader) if I am something tedious in
discoursing or this huge vessel. For as it was the strangest
spectacle that I saw in my travels : so I hope it will not be
unpleasant unto thee to reade a ful description of all the
particular circumstances thereof : and for thy better satis-
faction I have inserted a true figure thereof in this place
(though but in a small forme) according to a certaine
patterne that I brought with me from the City of Franck-
ford, where I saw the first type thereof sold, Also I have
added an imaginary kinde of representation of my selfe
upon the toppe of the same, in that manner as I stood
there with a cup of Rhenish wine in my hand. The
roome where it standeth is wonderfuU vast (as I said
before) and capacious, even almost as bigge as the fairest
hall I have seene in England, and it containeth no other
thing but the same vessell. It was begunne in the yeare ^^*' *» ^«
1589. and ended 1591. one Michael Warner of the City ^"^■'*
of Landavia being the principall maker of the worke. It
containeth a hundred and two and thirty fiiders, three
omes, and as many firtles. These are pecuHar names for
certain German measures. Which I will reduce to our
English computation. Every fuder countervaileth our
tunne, that is, foure hogsheads, and is worth in HeJdel-
berg fifteene pound sterling. So then those hundred two
and thirty fuders are worth nineteene hundred and foure- [p. 488.]
score poundes of our English money, The ome is a
measure whereof sixe do make a fiider, the three being
worth seven pounds ten shillings. The firtle is a measure
that countervaileth slxe of our pottles : every pottle in
Heidelberg is worth twelve pence sterling. So the three
firtles containing eighteen pottles, are worth eighteene
shillings. The totall summe that the wine is worth which '^^' ^"".
this vessell containeth, doth amount to nineteene hundred riftuniiteorti
fourescore and eight pounds and eight odde shillings. ^1988.8/.
This strange newes perhaps will seeme utterly incredible
to thee at the first : but I would have thee beleeve it.
For nothing is more true. Moreover thou must consider
that this vessel is not compacted of boords as other '
ther barrels ^h
CORYATS CRUDITIES
are, but of solid great beames, in number a hundred and
twelve, whereof every one is seven and twenty foot long.
The tm^s Also each end is sixteene foote high, and the belJy
Smnuums. eighteene. It is hooped with wonderous huge hoopes of
yron (the number whereof is sixe and twenty) which doe
containe eleven thousand pound weight. It is supported
on each side with ten marvailous great pillars made of
timber, and beautified at both the ends and the toppe with
the images of Lyons, which are the Princes armes, two
Lyons at each end, a faire scutchin being affixed to every
image. The wages that was paid to the workeman fbr
/// cost his labour, (the Prince finding all necessary matter for his
worke, and allowing him his dyet) came to two thousand
three hundred and fourescore Florens of Brabant, each
Floren being two shillings of our money, which summe
amounteth to eleven score and eighteene pounds sterling.
When the Cellerer draweth wine out or the vessel, he
ascendeth two severall degrees of wooden staires made in
the forme of a ladder which containe seven and twenty
steps or rungs as we call them in Somersetshire, and so
goeth up to the toppe. About the middle whereof there
[p. 489.] is a bung-hole or a venting orifice into the which he con-
veigheth a pretty instrument of some foote and halfe long,
made in the forme of a spout, wherewith he draweth up
the wine, and so poureth it after a pretty manner into the
glasse or &c. out of the same instrument. I mv selfe had
experience of this matter. For a Gentleman of the Court
i accompanied me to the toppe together with one of the
Cellerers, and exhilarated me with two sound draughts of
Thewine. Rhenish wine. For that is the wine that it containeth.
But I advise thee gentle Reader whatsoever thou art that
intendest to travell into Germany, and perhaps to see
Heidelberg, and also this vessell before thou commest out
of the City ; I advise thee (I say) if thou dost happen to
ascend to the toppe thereof to the end to tast of the wine,
that in any case thou dost drinke moderately, and not so
much as the sociable Germans will persuade thee unto.
^ For if chou ahoiUdest chance to over-swill thy selfe with
aao
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
wine, peradventure such a giddincsse wil benumme thy
braine, that thou wilt scarce finde the direct way downe
from the steepe ladder without a very dangerous precipita-
tion. Having now so copiously described unto thee the
vessell, I have thought good to adde unto this my poore
description, certaine Latin verses made by a learned
German in praise of the vessell, which I have selected out
of the coppy that I bought at Franckford, being printed
at the Universitie of Lcyden in Holland by one Henry
Hcestenius Anno 1608. and dedicated to a certaine Noble
man called Hippolytus Lord President of the Princes
Chancerie Court.
The
verses are
the;
OTia dum vario partiri quemque labore,
Exercere suas experiorque vices.
Nauta rates, enses miles, rus curvus arator,
Piscator tractat retia, pastor oves,
Me quoque dum sfudium novitatis dulce tenebat,
Nescio quod rari verso laboris opus.
Vas immane, ingens, quod fortfe jacere videbam,
Vas majus nostro robore pondus erat,
Diogenis tanti prfe pondere Vasis habebat
Dolioli parvi parva figura nihil.
Nec qui projectis turbabat montibus sequor
Hoc versare Cyclops sustinuisset onus.
Nec, qui ducebant, potuissent ducere plures
Trojanum, Trojas flebile robur, equum.
Voluendo tanto desperabundus abibam,
Par oneri nec enim, nec satls unus eram.
Quis mihi conanti tantum superare laborem
Attulerit sociam certus amicus opem?
Vos Oratores, quos has Fredericus in oras
Misit in auxilium pacis, adeste, precor.
Forsan erit, nostra per vos hac mole levata,
Nonnihil hoc vestrum quo relevetur onus,
Ergo jugum mecum superate quod indicat arcem,
[p- 490-] !
Lrgo
Qu
lua vas artifices hoc statuere manus.
CORYATS CRUDITIES
frsts in Nec dubia est, facilis nos semita ducet euntes,
me rfthe Omnibus est signis & via nota suis.
Est locus excultis genialis & utilis hortis,
Collibus apricis, pampineisque jufiis.
Quk Nicer excelsas Pater alluit mdytus arces,
£t prono Rhenum spiunifer amne subit.
Qull myrtiUorum montem probat esse Melissus,
Qui Myrtilleti nomen in astra tulit.
Hic specimen natura loci, genius(jue locavit,
Copiae & hic cornu fertile, dixit, habe.
Ubertas renmi nullis feliciiis arvis,
Hlc Bacchi, hic Cereris copia tanta venit.
Horrea distendant ut fruges saep^, coloni
Respondet votis tam ben^ cultus ager.
Ssep^ per autiunnum superantia munera Bacchi,
Condere rit^ suas copia nescit opes.
Quin sua saep^ nocet lascivis copia Faunis,
Quo nimis occcecat prodigus usus opum.
^ J.O1 1 Et dubitamus adhuc dare pectora grata datori
Nostra Deo, tantis coelit^s aucta bonis?
Sed designatis ne collibus altids istis,
Terminus hic positus, progrediamiu*, erit.
Collibus Heroes prisci his habitasse feruntur,
Servat adhuc sedes signa decusque Patrum.
Sed praeter veterum monumenta augusta Parentmn
Nil prius Aonidum vertice collis habet.
Dum licuit cultos hos olim intravimus hortos,
Et posthac tempus visere forsan erit.
Nunc age, fas magni Vas instar visere montis,
Divina structum Palladis arte cadum.
Vel Cuppam, vel quo te molem nomine dicam,
Seu monstrum, salv^ te pietate, vocem.
Authorem primam si Pallada vasis habemus,
(Nam rerum artificem tot posuere Deam.)
Invideat Bacchus, fiatque injiu*ia Divae,
Cum Baccho quid enim mascula Pallas habet.^
Vitisator Dux acer ades; tibi nostra parentet,
Te Musa authorem Dux Casimire canit.
222
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
Pro charo Princeps dum sceptra Nepote gerebas,
Pace Palatinam multiplicante domum.
Inter, qus domus alta colit, decora alta Parentum,
Qui tantEE, optabas, conderet artis opus.
Nobilis author, adest, urbs quem Landavia misit,
Fine potita suo gloria ponit opus.
Ponit opus, decus acre Ducum, non quale priorum,
^tas vel vidit, nulla vel ausa manus,
Non, mihi si prjestent mirandam Djedalus artem
Ipse, Syracusius ve! fiiber ille suam :
Immanem molem satls hanc describere possem,
Ante suo voluam pondus onusque loco.
Clara Rhodos jactet mJraclum immane Colossum,
Et Laurentiacum Bcetica terra suum,
Et Batavi currum, qui prEEvolat ocyor Euro,
Quodque fide majus nuUo agitatur equo.
Quisque suum jactet : par huic tamen esse negamus [p. 491,]
Dolium, onus, molem, pondus, & arcis opus.
Laude opus hoc dignum est : oculos cum ccetera pascant,
Spectaclum ventres hoc satiare potest.
Thus finally I shut up the description of this strange
Vessell with a certaine admirable thing that I heard
reported of it in Frankford, after my departure from
Heidelberg, that the same being fiill of Wine was once
drunke out in the space of eight dayes, at the time of a
certain noble meeting of Princely Gallants at the Court.
Seeing I am now writing of the memorables of the
Princes Palace, I will make mention of the Prince him-
selfe that is the Lord of the Palace, and of his Princely
titles or Electorall dignitle, But first of his titles. Thus "^,^ ^''«^.
he is most commonly stiled : Serenissimus Princeps, fitt. ''
Elector, Comes Palatinus ad Rhenum, Sacri Romam
Imperii Archidapifer, & Bavariae Dux. He is the chiefe
Elector Prince of the Empire above the other secular
Princes, which are the Duke of Saronie, and the Mar-
auesse of Brandenburg, having the superioritie of them in
lese two respects. First in that he giveth his suffrage in
I
Etyfitotogj Of
PtkHne.
[p- +93-]
CORYATS CRUDTTIES
the election of the Emperour before them, Secondlyl^
because he taketh prioritie of pkce above them at any
imperiall Diet, For he sitteth on the right hand of the
Emperour, being the next man to the King of Bohemia,
The reason why he is intitled Archidapifer (which word
doth signifie the principall Sewer to the Emperour) is
because he is chiefe Sewer to the Emperour, and attendeth
him at Table the first meale that hee maketh after his
Election, according to an ancient custome that hath beene
ccntinually observed at the Emperours election any time
these sixe hundred yeares and a little more, by the first
institution of Otho the third Germane Emperor of that
name. As for his title of Palatinus added to Comes, the
opinions of the learned doe much differ about the etymo-
logie of the word ; for some say it is derived from the
word Palas which was heretofore the name of a Country
called Capellatium, inhabited in former times by the
ancient Intuergi, a people that dwelt in that part of the
Palatinate where Heidelberg now standeth. Of this
opinion is Gaspar Peucerus and learned Beatus Rhenanus.
Whereof the later citeth a place out of Ammianus Marcel-
linus for the better confirmation of the matter, Others
draw the word Palatinus from Palatium, because the Count
Palatlne is an eminent Peere of the Emperours Palace : for
indeede Counts Palatine were heretofore the Prefects of
Palaces, especially in the Courts of Emperours, where they
bare the ilke authoritie to hlm that was in times past Major
Domus in the French Kings Court. Agalne, there are
some that affirme it hath his name from a certalne Castle
situate in the middle of the Rhene, called Pfeltz, which
word signifieth in the high Dutch a Palace. It was my
chance to passe by this foresaid Castle in my journey by
water upon the Rhene betwixt the Cities of Mentz and
Colen, as I wil! hereafter report. From the same word
Pfaltz this Prince is most commonly the Pfaltsgrave of
Rhene ; but that etymologle, which I approve above the
rcst, is the derivation of Palatinus from Palas the Name
of the Countrey : fbr it maketh more for the dignitie and
J
\ineiil7li/r,i
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
honour of the Prince, to derive his name from that then
from any other thing, because it argueth the greater
antiquity of his title. For Ammianus MarceUinus that
calleth thc tract about Heidelberg, Palas, Uved for more
then a thousand & two hundred yeares since, even in the
time of the Emperor Julian the Apostata. Moreover the
addition of these words (Ad Rhenum) to Comes Palatinus
groweth herehence, because the greater part of his terri-
torie doth lye by the river Rhene. As for the originall
of this renowned stocke of the Casimires (for that is the Family nam
gentilitiall name of the Count Palatines familie) it is oftAe Prince
derived from Arnolphus surnamed Malus the eldest sonne ^"''""'f-
of the Emperor Arnolphus by his first wife Agnes. So ^
that it is above seven hundred yeares old. Likewise the
Electoral dignity of this Princely familie is of good
antiquity. For it beganne about the yeare 1003. At
what time the hereditarie succession of the Empire was
converted to an election ; Henry the Count Palatine being
the first Elector of this femilie, who with other Princes
Spiritual and Temporal elected Henry the second sur-
named *Sanctus (the first of all the German Emperors that
was chosen by the Suffrages of the Elector Princes) into
the Empire in the yeare abovesaid ; but now I will speake
a little of him that was Count Palatine of Rhene at the
time of my being in Heidelberg, namely Fredericke the '^""'"^' ''•
fourth of that name, who died as I understand this last Pa/g/i„
Sommer. He was a man of most heroicall and Princely
parts. He matched in the Princely house of Orange.
For he manyed the noble Lady Ludovica daughter to
William that worthy Prince of Orange that was slaine at
the Towne of Delph in Holland, and sister to that
renowned Prince Maurice generall Commander of the
• Hee vfi» SQ called for his moat rarc continencie, becauac though he
had a most faire Lady to hia wife called Cunegunda, and did concinuall)'
lie in the same Bed wiih hcr: Yet both of them wich » mutuall consenl
abitained from carnall copulation and preserved their virginity till their
deaCh. The Hke cxamplc I thinkc is not to bec found at this Day in
Chnitendome.
I
1
CORYAT S CRUDITIES
Armics of thc unitcd Provinccs : hec was much addicted
to learning, and accountcd a grcat Mccoenas and patron
of thc Muscs. And (which is thc principall thing of all)
hcc was a singular Nutritius and foster-fathcr of the
Church. For hce professcd thc samc rcformcd Religion
that wcc doe in England, and hath uttcrly rootcd Poperie
out of his Dominion, which first began to be suppressed in
the Palatinatc by Frcdericke thc sccond of that namc
Count Palatinc of Rhcnc, in thc ycarc 1546. Besides hee
descrveth great praisc for one most princcly vertue, even
His njal his royall hospitalitic ; for he hath thc fame to bc the most
kospttoBij. magnificent Housc-kccper of all thc Germane Princes, the
Dukc of Saxonic (though his superiour in largencsse of
Dominion and opulcncie of estate) thc Marquesse of
Brandenburgc, thc Duke of Brunswicke, and all the other
[p- 495-] Soveraignc Jnrinces of Germanic, being inferiour unto him
in this most laudable cxcrcisc of Hospitalitic ; who was
sometimes so passing bountifull, that I havc hcard there
havc beenc a hundr^ sevcrall Tablcs in his Palacc fillcd
at onc meale with ghests, and very bountifuUy fumishcd
with meate. It was my chance whcn I camc to the Citie
of Colcn, to sce his Effigies very curiously made, answer-
able to the life, according to the originall patternc whereof
I have procured another Figure to be made, as trucly
correspondent to the first, as my Carvcr could by imitation
attainc unto, and have placed it here for the better omament
of this discoursc of the Count Paktine. Likewisc I have
addcd sixe Latinc verscs, which I found subscribed to his
Efiigics in the foresaid Citic of Colen, with mention of
whidi I wil cnd this treatisc of thc titles attributcd to the
Count Palatine of Rhenc, and the narration of Prince
Fredericke the fourth.
[p. 496.] Thus much of the Pfaltzgraves Palace, his Electorall
dignitie, titles, and Princely hospitalitie.
[p. 497.] T T 7Hereas I said before that there are two things which
Unhersity of ^^ doe notably beautifie this Citie, besides thc Chxirch
Heidelberg. of thc Holy Ghost, namely the Princes Palace, and thc Uni-
226
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
versitie; having ended my description of the former two,
I will now make relation of the Universitie, being verie
sorie that I cannot discourse so largely thereof as I would.
For that little time that I spent in Heidelberg (which was
no more then one whole day) I bestowed in seeing the
Palatine Library, the principall Church, and the Princes
Court. So that I omitted to see any of their CoUedges,
and therefore unable to satisfie thy expectation of those
things which perhaps thou wilt most require at my hands.
Only I can tell thee the founder of the Universitie was
Rupertus the elder, whom I have before mentioned, Count
Palatine of Rhene, and King of the Romanes, the same
that founded the Church of the holy Ghost. This laud- ^"'^''T'^ -
able worke he began in the yearc 1346. The CoIIedges -YJI^g ' *
are but three in number, whereof that which is called the
Colledge of Wisedome is the feirest, in which their theo-
logicall exercises are handled. The second is the Casi-
mirian CoIIedge, wherein are exercises of alJ the liberall
sciences. The third is called the Bursa, wherein all
faculties are professed also : although this Universitie be
but little, yet it hath partly bred, and partly entertained
many singular men of rare learning that have both
eternized their owne names, and greatly graced this
Universitie with the excellent fruits of their studies that
they have communicated to the world. For here lived
and died famous Rodolphus Agricola that most learned
Frisian of the noble Citie of Groninga. The Elogium Erasmu/i
of whose excellent learning written by Erasmus (as I finde '/"gy o"
it in his Chiliades, even in the first Chiliad in the nine ^'^"!l^
and thirtieth adage of the fburth Centurie) because it is ^'
very memorable, and doth greatly illustrate the glorie of
this rare man, I will here expresse, whose words are these.
Hoc equidem adagium eo libentius refero, quod mihi
refricat novatque memoriam pariter ac desiderium Rodol- [p- 498.J.
phi AgricolK Frisii, quem ego virum totius tiim Germaniffi,
tCim Italia; publico summoque honore nomino : illius, quie
genuerit : hujus, qux literis optimis instituerit. Nihil
enim unquam hic Cisalpinus orbis produxit omnibus liter-
I
CORYATS CRUDITIES
ariis dotibus absolutius: absit invidia dicto. Nulla erat
honesta disciplina, in qu4 vir ille non poterat cum summis
artificibus contendere. Inter Grsecos Graccissimus^ inter
Latinos Latinissimus. In carmine Maronem alterum
dixisses : In oratione Politianum quendam lepore referebat^
majestate superabat. Oratio vel extemporsdis ade6 pura,
ade6 Germana, ut non Frisium quempiam, sed urbis
Romanse vernaculum loqui contenderes. EloquentisB tam
absolutae parem adjunxerat eruditionem. Fhilosophie
mysteria omnia penetraverat. NuUa pars musices quam
non exactissim^ odleret. Extremo vitse tempore ad literas
Hebraicas ac Scripturam divinam totum animum appulerat
Atque hsec conantem fatorum invidia virum terris eripuit
nondum annos natum quadraginta, sicut accipio. Thus
much Erasmus of Rodolphus Agricola, whose testimonie
consisting of so many sweete words I was the more willing
to alledge, because it is an introduction to a most elegant
JgricMs Epitaph written upon the said Agricola by that famous
epitaph. ^^ learned Venetian Gentleman Hermolaus Barbarus
Patriarch of Aquileia ; which Epitaph (as it is extant upon
the monument of him in one of the lesser Churches of
Heidelberg) was conmiunicated xmto me by a leamed
Gentleman of the Universitie, (and mentioned also by
Erasmus himselfe in the same adafi^e whence I have derived
the premisses) who told me that Agricola was buried there
Anno 1485 in the habite of a Franciscan Frier, according
as I have sometimes observed secular men buried in
Italy.
The Epitaph is this.
Invida clauserunt hoc marmore fata Rodolphum
Agricolam, Frisii spemque decusque soli :
[P* 499-] Scilicet hoc uno meruit Germania laudis
Quidquid habet Latium, Grsecia quicquid habet.
Having now insisted upon the praise of worthy Rodolpus
Other kamed AgricoTa in regard he was buried in this renowned dty, I
min. wil briefly name some other learned men of this noble
228
OBSERVATIONS OF HEIDELBERG
University, & so finally end this discourse of Heidelberg.
Here Hved Joannes Dalburgius counseller to Ludovicus
Count Palatine of Rhene, and afterward Bishop of
Wormes, a man of singukr learning. Here also pro-
fessed that admirable Hebrician Conradus PelHcanus, who
rcad the Hebrew lecture ; and Sebastian Munster his Seiaiimt
successor in the same lecture which he read there five years, '"'""*''•
as he himselfe doth write. Likewise he wrote some part
of his Cosmographie in this Universitie, as Mr. Gruterus
tcld me : here Joannes Virdungus that notable Mathema-
tician professed the Mathematicke disciplines. Here
Gulielmus Xylander borne in fhe renowned citie of
Augusta, and famoused over all Christendome for his
excellent learning, especially in the studie of humanitie,
read Philosophie and Astrologie for the space of many
yeares ; and also did at last shut up his vitall daies in this
citie. Here that Phcenix and miracle of her sexe Olympia O^mpU
Fulvia Morata an Italian Gentlewoman borne,spent a eood \~*'"'
part or her time m sacred meditations, and most sweete
exercises of learnJng, after she had abandoned the vanities
of the Duke of Ferraraes Court in Italy, and the popish
religion; who by her incessant study profited so much in
the Greeke and Latine tongues, that she hath immortalized
her feme by her most elegant writings, and added some
grace to Heidelberg even by leaving of her precious bones
there. liere Victorinus Strigelius publikely professed
after he had before bene a professor in the two Universities
of Jene and Leipzicke. Here Joannes Willingus a
singular Divine and preacher of the Court florished. Here
preached that worthy man Gaspar Olevian : here those rare
divines, three shining lamps of Christs Church, Emanuel ^*^'' ihking
Tremellius a Jew borne as I have before written in my note ^^'t '
of Venice ; Zacharius Ursinus, and Petrus Boquinus read \„_ eoo.\
with no lesse profit then praise the publike lectures of
divinity. Whereof the first hath infinitely profited the
Church by his excellent translation of all the old ^
out of Hebrew into Latine with his learned
Francis Junius, and their sound scholaies upon
339
I
profited the ^H
d Testament ^H
:d copartner ^H
'n the same. ^H
CORYATS CRUDITIES
The other two have like most valiant champions of Christ,
especially Ursinus, fought the Lords battell against the
enemies of Gods true religion, partly with their eloquent
tonmies, and partly with their elegant quilles. The one
of them, I meane that holy Ursinus, having besides many
other most learned tracts of divinity, written so incompar-
ably leamed a Catechisme, and so profitable imto Gods
Church, that I thinke there was never any booke of the
like subject since the time of the Apostles worthy to be
paralleled with it; the other, besides many excellent
theologicall tracts that he hath written, hath most manfully
defenaed the old and ancient Christianisme against the new
and counterfaited Jesuitisme. Here also lived Paulus
Melissus that excellent Poet and worthy Knight Palatine.
Here Bartholomew Kicherman that notable artist professed
Logicke and Philosophy. Here finally flourished those
Fmrfmm foure famous men at that time that I was in Heidelberg ;
*^' David Pareus publike professor of Divinity, Dionysius
Gothofredus an excellent civill Lawyer, Doctor Lingel-
semius and Janus Gruteruswhom I have before mentioned,
such as greatly gratified me in the citie. All these from
the first to the last have bene so excellent and learned
writers that thev have gotten themselves such a celebrity
of name, as will never be extingmshed while the fabricke
of the world do last.
Thus much of Heidelberg.
[p. soi.] T Departed from Heidelberg the eight day of September
A being Thursday about nine of the clocke in the mom-
ing, and came to the City of Spira which is twelve miles
beyond it, about five of the clock in the afternoone.
A greatvfood. Betwixt these two Cities I passed through a great wood,
which by reason of the manifold turnings and windings of
the way like a company of voluminous Meanders, did so
exceedingly perplexe me, that I got out of the same with
no small difficulty. About three miles before I came to
Spira I was ferried over the Rhene in a boate.
330
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
My Observations of Spira commonly called
Spier.
THis City hath had two names, Spira and Nemetum ;
whereor Spira was the ancientest : which Peucer
aifirmeth to have been imposed upon the City from the
Greeke word a-Treipa, which amongst many other signi-
(ications signifieth also a Pratorian cohort. Because
whereas Constantius Chlorus the iather of Constantine
the great was esteemed either the first founder or the
inlarger thereof, (in which I have read he buried his
mother Claudia the daughter of Fbvius Claudius the
Emperour, and the predecessour of the Emperour Aureli-
anus) he placed a Prsetorian cohort in this City for fhe
defence both of the same place and of the territorie about
it. Therefore seeing it doth manifestly appeare (saith
Pcucer) that Constantius made his Rendevous about these
places neare adjoyning to Spira, the conjecture is neither
absurd nor ahene from the historicall truth, fhat Spira had
her denomination from certain Grecian cohorts. But in
processc of fime fhis name Spira was converted to Neme-
tum from certaine people called Nemetes, who inhabited
that territorie where the City now standeth, which name it
retained for the space of many yeares till the yeare after
Clirists incarnation 1080. at what time it recovred her old
name againe, by reason that a certaine Bishop whose name
was Rudiger (as Munster relateth the history) did include
a certaine Village called Spira neare adjoyning to the said
Nemetum (which indeede was fhe frue remnant of the
ancient Spira built in the fime of the foresaid Constantius)
within the walles of the City. And by this meanes thc
old buf not the firsf name Nemefum (reccived from thc
foresaid people Nemetes) was exfinct : and the ofher namc
of Spira (the true ancient appellafion firsf affributed unto
it at the time of her originall foundafion) rose againe.
Sincc which time it hath continually retained fhe same
name to this day, but with an addition of the name of the
•4
Sfiirei aiie
CORYATS CRUDITIES
people Nemetes. For it is commonly called Spira Neme-
tum. Againe Munster difFering from the opinion of
learned Peucer draweth the name of Spira from a certaine
river so called, that issueth out of certaine hils not &rre
from the City. Which river (saith he) gave the name to
the ancient villag^e, and hath since conmiunicated the same
unto the City it selfe, because it runneth at this day
through the City. But I preferring the opinion of Peuccr
had rather derive it from the Greeke word tnretpa signi-
fying a band of Souldiers (which me thinks is the more
elegant derivation) then from the river Spira.
Situatm of Yhe situation of it is very pleasant. For it standeth in
ptres. ^ fertiil plaine, being watered partly by the foresaid river
Spira that runneth through it, and p^utly by the noble
Rhene, which indeede washeth not the walles thereof as it
doth Basil, Mentz, and Colen, and many other Cities and
Townes, but is remote from it about the space of one
furlong. The compasse of it is something larger then
that of Heidelberg, and is invironed with goodly walles
that are exceedingly beautified both with battlements, and
with very lofty *towers being of such a heigth that they
equal the towers of many or our English Churches, the
liice whereof I have not seene in any place in my whoie
[p. 503-] journey, saving only one in Padua called Antenors tower
whereof I have before spoken. Also many of these
towers have peculiar gate-houses belonging to them, which
doe greadv garnish the City, and make it very conspicuous
/^^r/i anJ ^ f^^ qQ 'j^jjg streets are many, and very faire as well
^* for breadth as length; especially the great streete that
leadeth to the Cathedrall Church, which is on both sides
five and thirty paces broade ; for I paced it : and decked
with many sumptuous buildings that yeeld the farre fairer
shew, because some of the pnncipallest have their fronts
very curiously painted. Also that exquisite forme of
building their houses (whereof I have made mention before
in my description of Strasbourg) by garnishing both the
* These towers and their walles were built by one of their Bishops
called Rudiger, of whom I have already spoken.
232
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
endes with battlements, which are by little and little
acuminated till they rise to a sharpe toppe, doth especially
adorne their buildings. Which ^hion I observed in
Heidelberg also, and in most Cities both of higher and
lower Germanie.
The Churches of the City are in number sixteene, Ckmrthestf
whereof foure are Collegiat, foure that are called Parish ^f^^'
Churches, foure of Mendicant Friers, three of Nunnes,
and one of Jesuits. Their Cathedrall Chiirch is dedicated
to our Lady, (which our eloquent but Apostate country-
man Robert Turner in a Tract intitled Triumphus
Bavaricus, affirmeth to be as great a grace to this City
as a white tooth to an iEthiopian) a very magnificent
structure that yeeldeth a most gorgeous shew a larre ofF
by reason of the foure lofty turrets built at the corners
thereof, which to those that come towards the City do
TO-esent a prety kinde of forme not unlike to a cnuUe.
This Church was founded about the yeare 1030. by the
Emperour Conrade the second surnamed Salicus. Who
upon the twelfth day of Julie the same yeare placed the
first fundamentall stone with his owne handes. But by
reason that God called him out of the world before he
could accomplish his worke, he injoyned his sonne Henry
the third in his death-bedde, who succeeded him in the [p. 504.]
Empire, to finish the building that he beganne, which was
accordingly performed by his said sonne.
I observed more monuments of Emperors and royall ^^ rvjal
Persons buried in the Quire of this Church then in any ^*****"^-
other whatsoever in my whole voyage. For here lie the
bodies of eight German Emperors and two Empresses,
besides many other worthy wights of both sexes. The
Emperors I will reckon by desprees in order as they reigned.
The first was Conradus Sdicus the sixteenth German
Emperor, and the first of the imperiaU familie of Fran-
conia, who was founder of the Church as I have akeady
said. Here was he buried after he had reigned fifteene
yeares, his body being translated hither from the City of
Utricht in the Netherlands, where he died in the yeare
«33
CORYATS CRUDITIES
1039. ^^ ^^ ^^^^ Gisela the daughter of
King of France was buried in the same place about five
HeMry III. yeares after. The second was Henry the third the seven-
s^iuuintk teenth German Emperor siu-named the Blacke, the fbresaid
Empmr. Conradus his sonne by his wife Gisela, who died in the
yeare 1056. of his age forty, of his Empire seventeene,
being choaked with a morsell of bread. There was he
interred the fifth day of November which was the same
day that he was borne. Their monuments I saw in the
middle of the Quire, being not built with that royall
magnificence as the Tombes of great Potentates are in this
ambitious age. There were some other royall Peeres of
the same stocke or familie biu-ied there also: but every
one hath not his severall epitaph. For this one short
epitaph serveth for them all.
Filius hic, pater hlc, avus hic, proavus jacet isdc,
Hlc Proavi conjux, hlc Henrici senioris.
By Proavi conjux is meant the Empresse Gisela, by
Henrici senioris the Empresse Bertha. The third was
^^n ^r* ^^^"7 ^^^ fourth, the eighteenth Germane Emperour
G^»m surnamed the elder, the former Henry his sonne by the
Emferor. Empresse Agnes the daughter of the Duke of Aquitanie :
[p. 505.] this is that heroicall and martiall Emperoiu- that fought
sixtie two battels in the field, in most whereof hee got the
victorie: hee died in Liege upon the seventh day of
August, in the fiftie and sixe yeare of his age after he had
reigned fortie nine yeares, and in the yeare of our Lord
1106. his body was brought to Spira, five yeares after his
death (diuing al which time it was kept above ground in
the foresaid Citie of Liege, and deprived of the honour
of biu-iall by the Popes commandment) where he was
interred neere to his wife Bertha the daughter of Otto an
Italian Marquesse ; shee was biuied there about nineteene
yeares before, in the yeare 1087. her body being translated
^heuentk ^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ Mentz. The tourth was Henry
Germim ^^^ ^hYi^ the nineteenth Germane Emperour, surnamed
Emferor. the yonger, the foresaid Henry the fourths sonne by his
«34
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
wife Bertha : his body was brought thither from Utricht,
where he died the tenth day of August 1 125. after hee had
reigned nineteene yeares. The nfth is Philip borne in PMGpof
the Citie of Bamben^, once Duke of Suevia, the foure and -^^^W-
twentieth German Emperoiir, and the fifth sonne of that
famous and victorious Emperoiu- Fredericke Barbarossa by
his wife Beatrix: hee was slaine by Otto Paktine of
Whittelbach in his Chamber in Bamberg, when his Physi-
tion did let him bloud upon the tenth day of July in the
yeare 1208. after he had reigned ten yeares. His body
was first buried in the Cathedrall Church of Bamberg neere
the Emperoiu- Henry surnamed the Holy, and afterward
by the Emperoiu- Fredericke the second brought to Spira.
His moniunent is graced with no other Epitaph, but this
short inscription :
Philippus Bambergensis.
The sixth, Rodolphus Habspurgensis the two and thirtieth Rodofyk rf
German Emperor, who died in a towne called Germers- ^^/'^*'y-
heim seated upon a banke of the Rhene, the eighteenth
day of August in the year 1291. of his age seventie and [p. 506.]
three, of his Empire nineteene: fi*om the same hee was
brought to Spira shortly after his death, and buried here
with the rest. The seventh Adolphus Nassousensis the ^^ffof
successQr of the foresaid Rodolphus, who after hee had ^^^-
reigned eighteene yeares, was slaine neare this Citie upon
the sixth day of July in the yeare 1298. by Albertus
Austriacus afterward Emperour and the sonne of the
Emperour Rodolphus Habspurgensis. For they fought
a DueU, that is, a single combat in a field hard by Spura,
where Albert suddenly invaded Adolphus as soone as hee
was dismounted fi^om his horse; for as Adolphus was
rising up to take horse againe, Albert prevented him, and
with his sword did cut his throate. The eight and last
Emperour is the foresaid Albert, of whom I wiU make
no more mention in this place, but that hee.was buried
here. Because in my discourse of the Monasterie of
Kiningsfelden in Switzerland I have written a large history
33S
CORYATS CRUDITIES
of his most lamentable end, and of the translating of his
body to this place.
Besides the Monuments of ail those renowned persons
intombed in the Quire, I also saw in the same place a
memorable inscription in Latine verses concerning the
persons themselves, which because I was barred of the
opportunitie to write them out before I departed out of
the place, by gpod fortime I procured the same of a leamed
man of the Citie, who reated them to me perfectly by
heart, even these.
EpitaphoftAi Famosi Reges, clari Comitesque Ducesque,
Emfem-s. £^ Reginarum nobilis usque phalanx :
Hoc in magnifico (dum stabimt secula) templo
Vestrarum laudum fama perennis erit.
Quipp^ domo nostra, cui munera magna dedistis,
Haud frustrk pkcuit corpora vestra tegi.
Sperastis precibus animas quandoque levari,
Hic facilem ad superos spes erat esse viam.
[p. 507.] Vivite faelices seterna laude sepulti,
Quoram animas coelum, corpora terra tenet.
In the body of the Church I saw many things very
worthy the observation. But two of them are more
memorable then the rest. Therefore I will name them
ReRcsofSaiHt f;j.st. These were matters concernine: Saint Bemard
Abbot of Claraval in Bi^gundy. The one his salutation
to the Virgine Mary. The other a coppy of a certaine
Epistle that he wrote to the Bishop of Spira 8«:. His
sdutation to the Virgin Mary is a most notable matter,
which I was the more willing to observe, because I had
both read, and often heard of it before I came thither.
The history is this. When Saint Bernard came at a
certaine time to the this Citie of Spira, he went to the
Cathedrall Church to serve God, and as soone as he came
within the first dore at the west end of the Chxirch, he
kneeled very devoutly upon his knees, and zealously
elevating both his hands he saluted the image of the Virgin
Mary (which is shewed to this day at one corner of the
236
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
outside of the Quire on the right hand thereof as you
enter into the Church from the west dore) with thesc three 5««/
salutations, which for the better confirmation of the ^^^^^'
memory of the matter to posterity were shortly after sahaaHous.
writtcn in three severall pkces of the Church where he
kneeled, being the space of thirty five foote distant
asimder. The first was this, written in capitall letters in
the same manner as I present it to thee.
O
CLEMENS
MARIA.
Which wordes are cut in brasen letters within a roimd
peece of blew marble. But the word Maria is written
otherwise then the rest. For it is contrived in that manner
that the 5. letters of her name are severally made in the
5. leaves of a rose, which are very curiously represented [p- 5^8.]
in the same peece of marble. In the middle stone where
he kneeled the second time, is written his second saluta-
tion.
O
DULCIS
MARIA.
In the third his last salutation.
O
PIA
MARIA.
It is reported that the image did utter a voyce at that time ^ ^aking
to Saint Bernard very like to a living and articulate voice *^^'
of a man, by way of thanking & conunendinfi^ him for his
devotion. But what the speech was I comd not reade
in any authentick author (though I know Robert Turner
whome I have mentioned a little before, writeth in his
Trimnphus Bavaricus, that the image made this answere :
Gratus ades nobis Bernarde,) nor heare from the report of
any learned man. Yet I was very inquisitive fbr the
237
CORYAT-S CRUDITIES
matter in Spira amongst the learned of all sorts 1
Protestants and Papists, no man being able to tell me.
But the answere that Saint Bernard made to the image I
meane to conceale till some other edition of my booke
after my fiiture travels, (if God shall mercifully prolong
my life to accomplish some other outlandish voyage) and
that for certaine reasons of no meane importance which I
will not discover to the world.
The other memorable thing of Saint Bernard that I saw
Lp- 5°9l in the body of this Church, was a coppy of a certaine
Saini Epistle that he wrote to the Bishop of Spira, the Clergie,
e^tk^ ' ^"'^ ^^^ people of the citie, to the end to exhort them to
joine their helpe and assistance unto those heroicall Princes
that did in his daies undertake that famous voyage under
the conduct of Godfrie Duke of Bouloigne to conquer the
holy land, and eject the barbarous Saracens and Paynims
that had possessed the same. Howbeit in this Epistle he
maketh no mention at a! of the foresaid Godfrie- I finde
that St. Bernard Hved about forty sixe yeares after he wrote
this Epistle. For whereas it is very iikely that he wrote
it about the time of the Councell of Clermont in France
which was assembled by Pope Urban the second, of pur-
pose to animate the Christian Princes to undertake that
honourable expedition for the expugning of the holy land ;
that Councell was holden anno 1 094. and St. Bernard died
1 140. about the end of the raigne of the Emperour
Lotharius the second. Surely the sight of the epistle did
much comfort my heart, and in a manner refocillate my
spirits. It is written in a very ancient peece of Parch-
ment (which seemeth to be very neere five hundred yeares
old, as being written eJther in the time of St. Bernard
himselfe, which is almost so long since, or very shortly
after) and hanged upon one of the pillars on the
right hand of the Church, First of all this in red
letters : Hjcc est epistola quam beatus Bernardus tem-
pore illo ad passagium ad hortandum misit Domino
Episcopo Spirensi, Clero, et populo universo. Next
fbllaweth ^int Bemards owne superscription which
=•38
r
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
was this. Domino et patri *karissiino venerabili Epis-
copo Spirensi, et universo, Clero, et pcpulo, Bernardus
Clarevallensis vocatus Abbas in spiritu fortitudinis abun-
dare : then foUoweth the epistle itselfe in the latine tongue,
which because I cannot communicate to my country for a
meere novelty (for it hath bene commonly printed in all
the editions of Saint Bernards workes, being in number
the three hundreth two and twentieth epistle) I will not Ip- 5'o-]|
set downe in Latin, supposing that many learned men will
censure it for a superfluous labour, seeing it hath bene
these many hundred yeares so common in the world. Yet
since it was my hap to finde it out as I walked alone in the
Cathedrall Church of Spira whereof I now write, being
indeedc a most excellent treatise in respect of the worthi-
nesse both of the argument and the author ; I thought it
not impertinent to translate it according to my meane skil
into our vulgar fongue (which I never heard to be done
before by any man whatsoever:) submitting my simple
translation to the favorable censure of the curteous
reader.
The Epistle I say itselfe is this.
mAm to treate with you about a businesse of Christ, Saini
m whom is all our salvation. Thls I speake that fi'™"^'»
the authority of the Lord may cxcuse the unworthi- 'g^J^^j
nesse of the person of the speaker, and that the considera-
tion of selfe-utility may excuse it also. I wis I am but a
meane man, yet I doe not meanely desire you all in the
bowels of Jesus Christ. Now then there is that occasion
of my writing unto you that I dare presume to salute the
whole community of you with my letters. More gladiy
would I doe it by word of mouth, if as I want not will, so
also I had opportunity to performe it. Lo fnow (my
brethren) is the acceptable time, lo now Is the day of plenti-
fuil salvation. For the earth hath moved and trembled,
*■ Thus was this word writtcn cven with the letter k at the beginning,
according to ihat o]de and obselete manner.
t 2. Cor. 6.cap. i. ve.
CORYAT S CRUDITIES
^^ ^ because the God of heaven hath begunne to lay waste his
^tiuk^'^ owne land. His I say, wherein he hath bene seene to teach
En^sked. ^^ word of his Father, and man with men to converae fbr
the space of thirtie yeares and more. His certainly, since
he hath iUustrated it with so many mirades, and dedicated
fp- 5"-] it with his owne bloud, in which the first flowers of resui^
rection budded, and now our sinnes requiring it, the
adversaries of die Crosse have sacrilegiously made head,
wasting in the face of the sword the land of promise. For
now it is well neare come to passe, if there be no bodie to
resist, that they will rush into the very Citie of the livine
God, overthrow the very shops of our redenrntion^ and
poUute those holy places which were purplea with the
bloiid of the Lambe immaculate. Yea they yawne with
sacrilegious mouthes (out alas) to enter the very sanctuary
of Christian religion, and they endeavour to invade and
tread under feete that very bed wherein our Ufe fbr our
sakes hath slept in death. What doe ye vaUant men?
what doe ye that are the servants of the Crosse? what,
wil ye give that which is holy imto dogs, f & pearls unto
swine? how many sinners having there confessed their
sinnes with teares have obtained pardon, after that the
uncleannesse of the Pagans hath bene banished out of the
Citie by the swords of our forefathers? the maUdous
man sees this, and envies at it, gnasheth his teeth, and pines
away. He stirreth up the vessels of his iniquity, intend-
ing not to leave as much as any print or step of so great
devotion, at the le&st if he can seise upon (which God
forbid) those JHolyes of Holyes. And that would be to
aU ages a most disconsolate griefe, because the losse is
irrecoverable, but especiaUy unto this most impious
generation it would breed an infinite confusion, and shame
everlasting. But what thinke we brethren? what, is the
hand of the Lord § shortned or become weake to save, in
that he caUes his Uttle wormes to preserve and restore unto
him his inheritance? what, is he not able to send more
then twelve legions of Angels, or but say the word, and
t Matth. 7. cap. 6. ve. { Sancu Sanctorum. §Ess^ 57^ cap. ye. 1,
240
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
your land shall be deliveredr verily it is in his power to Sdin(
do it when he list. But I tell you thc Lord God doth trie B'"<^^^^* \
you. He lookes backe upon the sonnes of men if £„^,4,/ I
there bc any that understands, and enquires for II her, and
bemoanes her case. For the Lord hath pitie on his people, [P- 5 ' *•]
and doth provide a wholesome remedie for those that are
grievously fellen. Consider how great cunning he doth
use to save you, and be amazed at it. Behold the depth
of his pietie, and be of good cheere O ye sinners. He
will not your death, but that ye may be converted and live,
Fcr he seekes an occasion not against you, but for you.
For what is it but a studied occasion of salvation & picked
out only by God himselfe, that the omnipotent doth
vouchsare to quit from their bondage murderers, robbers,
adulterers, pcrjured men, and those that are vassals to
other crimes, as if they were a nation that had wrought
righteousnesse? Doe "not distrust 6 ye sinners, the
Lord is debonaire. If he meant to punish you, he wouM
not only not crave your service, but would not entertainc
it being offered by you. I say againe, weigh the riches
of the goodnesse of fhe most high God, observe the
counsell of his mercy, he either makes himselfe to have
want, or seemes as though he had, while he covets to
relieve your necessities. He will be held a debtor that
he may give wages unto those that serve in his warfare,
even indulgence of sinnes, and everlasting glory. Blessed
may I call the generation whom so plentifull a time of
indulgence layes hold upon, whom that pleasing yeare to
the Lord and truly Jubilie doth finde alive. For this
blessing is dispersed over all the world, and to the ensigne
of life all men flie together with a kinde of contention.
Therefore for as much as your territorie is fruitfuU of
f valiant men, and knowen to be full of such as are in the
IIThc Cltlc of Jeriisakm. •Joel 2.
t In ihe Latin copp)' of SainC Bcrnardi Episde 1 find thesc wordo.
Quia erg6 ftEcunda vitiorum terra vcstra, &c. vv^hcrcin I observe a faulL
For I am pcrawaded that that word vitiorum should be virorum. Other-
wise there can be no sense in it. The consideration whereof hath
induccd me to translate it accordingly.
C. C II 341 Q
CORYArS CRUDITIES
^^ prime of their jouth (as your praise is sprcad all oivcr, and
^^T^'' thc hmc of your prowesse hath filled thc whc^ worid) be
g^LfigHf^ yce also couragiously girt, and in zcale of the Christiu
name bctake yoursclves to happy armcs. Let fbrmer noc
warfare but nialicc cease, whercwith ycc arc wont mutullj
to destroy one another, that yee might bc mutuaDy cx»-
sumed. What direfiill wilfiikiessc stirrcth upwretches,thit
[p- 5 '3'] neighbours should pierce that body whosc soule perhapsts
in case to perish. But he shall not escape to boast of it, and
a sword luth pierced him to the very soule wfaen he dodi
but onety rcjoyce at the fall of his enemie. To ezpose
ones selfe to such a danger, were a token of madnesse, noC
of prowesse. Neyther might it be ascribed to hardinesK^
but rather to folly. Now thou hast couramous aoldieri
thou hast warlicke man where thou maiest skirmish witb-
out danger, where it is both a glory to conquer, and to diei
gaine. If thou art a wise and thriving Merchant, if a
purchaser of this world, I bring thee tydings of a crett
rayre, see thou slippe it not. Take the sime oftlic
crosse, and thou shalt obtaine indulgence of aU thy stniio
whereof thou shalt make a confession with a contrite heait
The matter it self if it be bou^ht, is had fbr little or
nothinc;. If it bee taken upon a devout shoulder, withotf
doubt it is worth the Kingdome of God. Well therefiit
have they done that have abeady taken the heaveiil^
cognisance, and others may doe well to lay hold on tiiit
which may availe to their salvation. Touching tbc
rest I advise you (my brethren) yet not I, but abo
Gods *Apostle with me, that credite is not to be givento
every spirit. We have heard and rejoice how the spA
of God boileth in you : but it is altogether necessary tbt
a due temperature of knowledge be not wanting. Tbt
Jewes are not to be persecuted, nor to be slaine, no not
so much as to bee banished from you. Aske yoursehcs
the holy Scriptures. I know what is reaid in d»c
§ Psalme prophesied of the Jewes. God shewes me (quod
the Church) concerning my enemies, that thou kiU thoD
♦ I John 4. § 50.
242
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
not, least at any time my people prave forgetful. They Saiw
are certaine living marks pointing out unto us the Lords ^^y''*
passion. For this cause they have beene dispersed into a!l £„,/;,^,^_
Countreys, that while they sustaine the just punishment of
so great a crime, they may be witnesses of our redemption.
Whereupon the Church speaking in the same psalm addeth [p. 514.]
this, Disperse them in thy vertue, and put them downe
O Lord my profector : which hath accordingly come to
jjasse. For they are dispersed, they are put downe, they
sustaine hard captivity under Christian Princes. Not-
withstanding about the evening they shall be converted,
& there will be a respect had of them in time. Finally,
when the multitude of the Gentiles shall enter in, then
all Israel (saith the fApostle) shall be saved. But in the
meane time whosoever dieth, remaineth in death, 1
[ say not that wheresoever they Jare not, we grieve that
I Christian usurers doe worse Judaize, at the least if they
j ought to be fitly called Christians, and not rather baptized
, Jewes. If the Jewes are altogether confounded, how then
, shall their salvation or conversion promised in the end,
j prosper? Surely the very Gentilcs themselves (if their
j conversion were likewise to be expected) were rather to bc
, fbrborne then "smitten with the sword. But now since
( they first began to offer violence unto us, it behoveth
I those that doe not carry the swordes in vaine, to repulsc
, force with force. Yet it is a part of Christian piety as to
conquer the proud, so also to spare subjects, especially
those whose the lawe is by promise, those from whome
the Fathers were decended, and from whom Christ sprang
according to the flesh, which is blessed for ever. How-
beit it were to be required of them, according to the tenor
of the Apostohcall mandate, that they should altogether
exempt al those free from the exaction of usurie thatshall
take on them the badge of the crosse. Also it is necessary
(my most beloved brethren) that if any man perhaps
t Rom. ri. JThe Jewej.
* In most or the Latine copic! it is expetendi. But it ii (aUc. For it
must bc petendi.
243
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Samt
Berward^s
iputle
[p-515-]
desirous to be cheefe amongst you, would by his fbrward-
nesse forestall the govemment of the armie, yee nve no
t eare at all imto him : and if he make as though he were
sent from us, it is not true. Or if he sheweth letters sent
as from us, ye may say they are altogether false, that I may
not call them furtive. Ye ought to choose warlike men,
and Chieftains expert in those afFaires, and to take order
that the armie of^ the Lord may march together, that It
may every where have strength, and may not sustaine
violence from any whatsoever. For there was a certaine
man in the first voiage before Jerusalem was taken, called
Peter, of whome ye also (unlesse I am deceived) have often
heard mention. He marching alone with his soldiers,
exposed the people that believed him, to so great dangers,
that either none of them or very few escaped, that perished
not either with himger or the sword. Thercfore it is
altogether to be feared that if yee shall doe the like, the
like may happen imto you also. Which God turne from
you that is blessed for ever. Amen.
Having now ended those two things that I said bef^Mre
were the most memorable of all in the body of this Chiirch,
I will digresse to some other matter, and will first make
A sumftuous mention of a certain pulpit that standeth on the left hand
fulpit. of the body of this Church, as you come into it from thc
street. I suppose that some hyper-criticall carpers will
taxe me of vanity for adding such triviall things to my
Observations, as descriptions of Pulpits. But I cravc
pardon of them although I describe this pulpit of Spira.
For it was so glorious and resplendent an architecture, that
I was unwilling to let it passe unmentioned, being the
fairest thing of that nature that I saw in my travels, saving
one onely pulpit before mentioned in my discourse of thc
City of Amiens. Which notwithstanding in some respects
is inferiour to this whereof I now speake. The roofe or
covering of this sumptuous pulpit is made but of wainscot,
but so wonderfull gorgeously gilt, and adorned with
t The ordinary Latine text is false. For instead of audeat it must be
audiatur.
«44
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
sundry colours, that it yeeldeth a shew most beautifull : in
certaine square peeces of this roofe I read these sacred
poesies. The first this. *Hodie si vocem ejus audieritis,
nolite obdurare corda vestra. In the lower square ihis,
Beati qui audiunt verbum Domini & custodiunt ilJud. A
little under this fPrEedica verbum, insta opportune, im-
portunfe, argue, obsecra, increpa in omni patientia &
doctrina. The other part of the pulpit is exceeding
sumptuous also, being made of white free-stone, which is
so faire that it may compare with some kinde of alabaster,
and garnished withcurious images, works, and borders most
richly gilt, and decked with many sententes taken out of
the holy Scriptures. In the inside of the dore where the
prcachcr ascendeth the pulpit, this is written in golden
letters. JAscendo ad patrem meum & patrem vestrum.
Also these sentences are written in the outside of the
pulpit about the compasse as the Preacher doth ascend.
§(^omodo prsdicabunt nisi mittantur? sicut scriptum
est. Qiiim preciosi pedes Evangelizanfium pacem,
Evangelizantium bona? Next this. "Euntes in mun-
dum universum praedicate Evangelium omni creaturje.
Againe this. tDominus dabit verbum Evangelizantibus
virtute multa. Then this. tCIama, ne cesses, quasi tuba
exalta vocem tuam, & annuncia populo meo scelera eorum.
All these sentences are written in one row. Under these
in the lower part of that curious stony compasse this is
written. §In novissimo autem die magno stabat Jesus
& clamabat, dicens, Si quis sitit, veniat ad nie & bibat.
Likewise there are set forth in the outside of this exquisife
workemanship fhe images of fhe foure Docfors of the
Latin Church. Sf. Augustine and St. Ambrose in their
Episcopall habites, St. Hierome in his Cardinals weedes.
St. Gregorie with his triple crowne. Our Lady with
Christ in her armes. St. Stephen Pope, and two Bishops
more whose names are not expressed.
* Psal. 9+. t 2 Tim. 4. cap. J John 20. v. 17.
gRom. 10. 15. *Mar. 16. 15.
+ Pm1. 67. 13. JEsa. 58. ver. 1. SJohn 7. 37.
CORYAT S CRUDITIES
Tki siveH Also thc scven workes of mercy are after an historicall
"^^ ^f manner very artificially represented in stone. Undcr the
^^' first this is written in golden letters. Esurientes pasccrc
Undcr the sccond. Potum dare sitientibus. Under the
third. Operirc nudos. Under the fourth. Captivos
rcdimere. Under the fifth. .Slgrotos inviserc. Undcr
the sixth. Hospitio percgrinos susciperc. Undcr the
[p- 5 1 7-] seventh. Mortuos sepelire. Also thc basc of this pulpit
is vcry sumptuous, on both sides whereof there arc insertcd
pceces of touch-stone. In one side this is written. Ebcr-
hardus Dei gratii Episcopus Spirensis & Prsepositus
Wcissenburgensis, Imperialis Camerse Judex, &c. Cathe-
dram hanc in honorem Dci omnipotentis & omamentum
celcberrimse hujus basilics nova hac forma construi & erigi
fecit Anno Saiutis humanse. M.D.X.C.V. nihil aliud optans
qxikm ut posteritas cx hoc loco verbum Dei pi^ & Catholic^
crudita, rusis ad Deum precibus, semper sui grato animo
meminisse velit. On the other side of the base this also
is written in another peece of touch-stone. Revcrendissi-
mus Princeps & Dominus Restaurator hujus Cathedne
Ebcrhardus k Dicnhcim electus fuit in Episcopum Anno
Domino M. D. Lxxxi. setatis suae xxxix. £t in Judiccm
Camcrse solito juramento receptus ultima Aprilis cum
xxvii. ejusdem ant6 solenni equitatu in urbem Spirensem
esset ingressus Anno Salutis Humanse M. D. Lxxxiiii.
obiit Anno setatis suse, *&c. Episcopatus, &c.
Monument to Qn thc left hand of the bodie ot the Church there is
I Btskof. ^ passing sumptuous monument of one of the Bishops of
Spira, whose image is made at length with a representation
of his Episcopall habits, and many curious workes and
histories are excellently cut in stone. Also it is adomcd
with many sentences of Scripture. At the vcry top of all
this is written. Si charitatem non habuero, nihil siun:
and under that : Repleti simt omnes spiritu sancto, whcrc
the effigies of a dove is carved. Above the effigics of
Christ this in golden letters. Mihi autem absit gloriari
nisi in cruce Domini nostri Jesu Christi. Gal. 6. under that
* The yeare is not expressed in the original.
246
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
againe. Vigilale, quia nescitis diem neque horam. Matth.
25. under that, his Epitaph in golden letters, which is this.
Reverendissimo Principi ac Domino Domino Marquardo
ab Hattstein Episcopo Spirensi & Praeposito Weissenbur-
gensi CtcsarcEe Majestatis Consiliario,ac Imperialis Camerx
Judici pro laudatissimEE meraoriae, dum vixit, pietate, doc-
trina, authoritatc, rerum experientia, consiliis, & singulari [p. 5 '8.] I
prudentia conspicuo & ceieberriipo, nec non de Ecclesia
Spircnsi multis modis optimfe merito, monumentum hoc
pietatis & nunquam apud posteritatem intermoritura
recordationis ergo poni fecerunt ejus heredes, Obijt
autem Ktatis suEe 51. Episcopatus 2i. Judicatus 21. 7.
Decembris. Anno Domini 1581. cujus anima requiescat
in pace. Amen. under that is written this sentence. In ,
principio creavit Deus ccchtm & terram. Gen. i. under ]
which sentence the historie of the creation of the world
is very curiously expressed in stone.
Opposite unto this there is erected on the right hand of v*«'4«"
the Church a faire monument of another Bishop of Spira, '""""""■
whose image is made at length also as that of the former,
with his episcopall habits, and under the same this Epitaph
is written. Reverendo atque illustri Domino D. Georgio
Episcopo Spirensi ac Com. Palat. Rheni Ducique Bavarie ,
admiranda clementia, prudentia, & pietate undique con-
spicuo, ac demum flagranti Anglico sudore immatur4
morte defiincto, pius in Episcopatu Successor Philippus I
a Flersheim hoc monumentum instituit. Obiit autem I
Anno Salutis 1529. die 28. Septembris, qui Kterna lucc
fruatur.
There is adjoyning to the South side of this Church a jf podi/
goodly cloister, in the which I observed an exceeding ^"'"^''-
multitude of ancient monuments wherewith the cloyster
is beautified round about, but the time would not give
me leave to write them out, For I made my aboad in
this city but one whole day. This cloyster invironeth s .
very pleasant greene quadrangular Court, in the midst
whcreof there is the most memorable thing of that kinde
that I saw in my travels, even a representation of the
CORYATS CRUDITIES
moiint Olivet. This is (in my opinion) onc of the most
exquisite works in all Europe, built in a roimd forme,
ana raised to the height of some fortv foote by my estima-
tion. It is supported with sixe goodly pillars of free stone,
within the which is described the history of Christs praying
[p. 5 '9'] upon the Mount Olivet, for there he is represented pro-
strate upon his knees, and elevating his lumds when he
prayed to his Father. Also three of his disdples are
pourtraied sleeping in as many sevend places apart. The
whole fabricke within those pillars consisteth of many
Rifresentatum notable devices. There are two very artificiall rayles of
ofMount stone contrived in the maine worke, and within the same
ORvet. thcre stand the pourtraitures of ten souldiers having as
many severall and distinct weapons in their hands. In
another place are pourtraied five soldiers more standing
together, and conduding how they may take Jesus. Also
Judas conmiing to kisse his master with a treacherous kissc
is excellently presented. About the top of the Moimt
where there standeth an Angell with a crosse in his hand,
the figures of olives are very cimningly expressed. Like-
wise round about the rockc (for the lower part of this
structiu-e is made in the form of a rock) they are so arti-
fidally made, that they yeeld a most delectable shew.
Within the rocke is a little Chappeil having windowes
made in the maine rocke to conveigh in the light. Herc
every Friday is Masse said. The outside of the building
is inclosed with a faire indosure of stone worke. Upon
the which, round about the same, is made a ikire compasse
or rayle of yron, such as we call in Latine Cancelli, of somc
two yardes high that incompasseth the whole worke. Also
the tops of those barres are headed like the forkes of
arrowes, to the end that no man shall come within thc
place. There is but one onely dore that leadeth to this
Mount Oiivet and the Chappell within the same. To
condude, such is the strange curiositie of this worke, that
it driveth all the beholders into admiration, and is a thing
of such fame that few strangers come to the Citie but scc
it before they goe forth againe.
248
OBSERVATIONS OF SPmES
■ Who was the first Bishop of this Citie I cannot finde. Bhiefrit^m
But I have read fhat there was a Bishopricke insfituted in ^f"""- r
the same before 348 yeares after Christ. From which time [p- 5*°'1H
till fhe reigne of Dagobert King of France, it was exceed-
ingly eciipsed and deceased. But the same King well
repaired it againe, and created Afhanasius thaf was one
of his Chaplaines, Bishop of Spira about the yeare 610.
sioce which fime there have bene many famous Bishops,
whereof fhose of lafer yeares have bene sfiled with the
titles of Princes: he fhat was Bishop when I was fhere,
was called Eberhardus Adinheim, who was about the age
of threescore yeares when I was in the Citie: one that
alwaies resideth at a Palace he hath in the counfrie, as fhc
rest of his predecessors have done thcse many yeares,
Thus much of the Cathedrall Church and the
Bishopricke.
IWas in the Colledge of the Jesuites who used me vcrie Celltge of the
kindly. But one especially above all the rest, whose ^t"^"-
name was Jonas Keinperger the chiefe of the Jesuiticall
family, who shewed me fheir librarie, where I saw a notable
company of goodly bookes, But in one of them 1
observed a matter that argued the injurious and naughty
dealing of the Jesuits. For whereas amongst the rest of
their bookes fhey had Munsfers Cosmography, I looked
info it to informe my selfe somefhing of the antiquities of
fhe Citie, and by chance turning over some leaves, I found
notable places expunged by these criticall Aristarches, and
demanded of fhem why they did deface any part of so
famous an authors workes. They answered me fhat
Munster was an heretike and an aposfafe, affirming fhat
after he had renounced his Monkish religion, he main-
tained many heretical points in his writings. Wherefore
because there were certaine matters in his Cosmography
that made against the faifh of thc Catholike Church of
Rome, thcy would not suffer thcm to remaine in the
booke. How these mcn and others of divers Papisticall
orders have dealt with the Fathcrs of thc Church also, and
CORYATS CRUDITIES
divers godly authors of great antiquitie by their wicked
falsifications, putting out those things that have made
[p. 521.] against them, and supplying the same with some com-
mentitiall forgeries of their owne braines, it doth evidently
appeare to the world by the Index expurgatorius printed at
Geneva and Strasbourg. I foimd one of those Jesuites
so skilfull in some of our English histories, that he dis-
coursed unto me of certaine ancient matters of old
Brittaine, especially of our Kings of Northumberland. In
their Library they keepe the picture of their Bishop Eber-
hardus above named» because he hath shewed himselfe a
CkMrekrf creat benefactor imto them. Father Jonas shewed mc
' their Church also. Which though it be not very ereat,
yet it is exceeding glorious and beautifuU, being gamished
with a great multitude of faire pictures and images. Their
table above the high Altar is a passing sumptuous thing.
But I could not perceive the inward glory thereof , because
it is most commonly shut, and never opened but upon
speciall daies. At the upper end of the Chimrh there are
certaine seates made onely for Earles, Covmtesses, and
other great persons to sit in, who do eftsoones repayre to
their Masses, as Father Jonas told me. And by die sides
of their walles in the inside of the Church, they have
lately made five very curious seates of wainscot, three on
one side, & two on another, for the Priest to sit in, to the
end to heare the confessions of ofFenders. All this Church
was built within these few yeares, not at their owne cost,
but meerely by the benevolence and liberality of well dis-
posed benefactors that have bountifuUy contributed to the
building thereof. Of the Fraternitie of these Jesuites
there are onely twentie.
Anciint I heard that there were certaine temples of idolatrie
^f^'- heretofore in this city erected by the Etnnicks, before it
was converted to Christianity, & those in number three;
which is also confirmed by Mvmster, whereof one was
dedicated to Diana, which was nere to the place where
the CathedraU Church now standeth. An other to Mer-
cury in a place where there was afterward a Monastery-
250
OBSERVATIONS OF SPIRES
of Benedictinc Monkcs. And thc third to Vcnus, upon [p« 5**-]
a hiU at the west cnd of the city, whcre I observed thc
Church of Saint Guido; but at last Dagobert King of
France demolished them all, so that now there arc not to
be seene vel Vestigia quidcm, as much as the least ruines
thereof ; but only the placcs where they stood.
Attila King of thc Hunncs after he marched out of SpinssacieJ
Hungary and Austria with his huge Armie to conquer h ^^-
Germany, grcatly wastcd this city of Spira, ransackin|
it aftcr a most cruell and mercilesse manner with fire anc
sword, as he did other of the German cities that I havc
akeady described, and othcrs also that I shall hereafter
describe.
This City doth not embrace that vmity of religion that Proustant aitd
the citics of Strasbourg, Basil, and thc other reformed irf'
citics of Switzerland, Dut is distractcd into a doublc ^^'
religion, Protestant and Papisticall; thc Protestant pro-
fessmg the Lutheran Doctrine, beeing the prcdominant
part, though the Cathedrall Church bclongeth to the
Papistes in rcgard their Bishop is a Papist. For a lcarncd
preacher of the city one Nicolaus Frisius that used me
very curteously, told me that most of thc principall
familics professe the reformed religion. But thcrc is a
kind of murmuring bctwixt both parts, though it be so
concealed that it breaketh not out into any open jarrcs,
fuU liberty of conscience & cxercise of relifi^ion being
permittcd to each faction without any contradiction.
Now it were fitte to speakc something of the governe-
ment of this noblc city, and to mention thcir principall
Magistrates, their afFaires in justice, and such othcr
memorable pointes of policy, as the description of so
worthy a City doth require. But seeing I made so shortc
aboade thcre, I hope thou wilt be satisfied with thc
premisses. Only I can say that it is an imperiall dty.
Therfore let this suffice for Spira.
Thus much of Spira.
[I departed
251
IVorms,
CORYATS CRUDITIES
[p* 5 2 3-] T Departed from Spira about eight of the clocke in the
X morning the tendi dav of September being saturday,
after I had made my aboade there all fridav, and came to the
beautifull city of Wormes about sixe or the clock in the
aftemoon. This daies joumey was seventeen miles.
Betwixt Spira and Franckendall twelve, and from that to
Wormes five. I observed that all the tract betwixt these
two cities doth yeeld a most fertile & pleasant soyle that
bringeth forth abundance of ail manner of commodities,
as corne, grapes, fruites, all manner of rootes, and what
not.J*
Frankentkdl. I observed that in Franckendai which I never saw in
any city or towne before, and I have not heard of the likc
to be seene in any city of Christendome saving only in thc
city of Nancy the Metropoiitan of Lorraine. For all thc
houses of the towne are newly built, having bene raised
from the foundations within fifty yeares, as I heard in
Spira. Before which time Franckendall was the name of
a Monastery onely and not of a Towne. Part of the
Monastery being defaced, the whole Church remayneth to
this day, being the onely Church of the Towne, and a very
goodly building, which a man may see a farre ofF from
every quarter of the country. This Monastery was built
in the time of the Emperour Henry the fift about thc
yeare 1119. by a certaine rich Gentleman of the city of
Wormes called Eckenbertus Kemerer, who converted his
whole estate into money, and bestowed the same upon
the building of this Monastery, which he devided into
two parts, & distinguished it by the names of the greatcr
and the lesser Monastery. For the greater served for
Monkes, whereof he himselfe having abandoned the world,
was the first Abbot ; and the other for Nunnes, whereof
his wife Richlindus was the first Abbesse. But now this
Monastery is alienated from Popish uses, the Church
being possessed by the Protestants of the towne that
[p. 524.] professe the same religion that we doe in England, where
they hear Gods word truly preached, & receive the Sacra-
ments duely administred. I observed one feire street in
252
OBSERVATIONS OF FRANKENTHAL
this towne which is much graced with the new buildings.
For all the buildings of the towne being new (as I said
before) they yeeld the much fayrer shew. Also I saw a
goodly market place in the towne. More then this I
cannot speake of Franckendail because I made no aboade
at all there, but only glanced through it in my way to
Wormes.
Thus much of Franckendall.
THere hapned unto me a certaine disaster about the A diiasur. '
middest of my journey betwixt Franckendall and
Wormes, the like whereof I did not sustaine in my whole
journey out of England. Which was this. I stept aside
into a vineyard in the open field that was but a litle distant
from the high waie, to the end to taste of their grapes
wherewith I might something asswage my thirst : hoping
that I might as freely have done It there, as I did often
times before in many places of Lombardie without any
controulement, There I pulled two little dusters of them,
and so returned into my way againe travelHng securely
and jovially towards Wormes, whose lofty Towers I saw
neere at hand. But there came a German Boore upon me ■
(for so are the clownes of the country commonly called) '
with a halbert in his hand, & in a great fury pulled off
very violently my hat from my head (as I have expressed
in the fi^ontispice of my booke) looked very fiercely upon
me with eyes sparkling fire in a manner, and with his
Almanne wordes which I understood not, swaggered most
insolently with me, holding up his halbert in that threat-
ning manner at me, that I continualJy expected a blow, and
was in deadly feare lest he would have made me a prey
for the wormes before I should evcr put my foote in the
gallant City of Wormes, For it was in vaine for me to [p- S*S-]
make any violent resJstance, because I had no more
weapon then a weake staife, that I brought with me
out of Italy. Although I understood not his speeches,
yet I gathered by his angry gestures that the onely
cause of his quarrel was for that he saw me come
CORYATS CRUDITIES
forth of a vineyard (which belike was his maisters)
with a bunch of grapes in my hand. AU this while that
he threatned me with these menacing termes I stood bcforc
him almost as mute as a Seriphian nx>gge, or an Acanthian
grashopper, scarce opening my mouth once \mto him,
because I thought that as I did not understand him, so
likewise on the other side he did not understand me. At
length with my tongue I began to reencoxmter him, tooke
heart a grace, and so discharged a whole volley of Greeke
and Latin shot upon him, supposing that it would bee an
occasion to pacifie him somewhat if he did but onely
thereby conceive that I had a little learning. But the
implacable Clowne
*Non magis incepto vultum sermone movetur
Quim si dura silex, aut stet Marpessia cautes.
And was so farre from being mitigated with my strange
Rhetoricke, that he was rather much the more exaspera^
against me. In the end after many bickerings had passed
Friendsin betwixt us, three or foure good fellowes that came from
med. Wormes, gkunced by, and inquired of me what thc
Siarrell was. I being not able to speake Dutch asked
em whether any of the company could speake Latin.
Then immediately one replyed unto me that he could.
Whereupon I discovered unto him the whole ciramistance
of the matter, and desired him to appease the ram of that
inexorable and unpleasant peasant, that he might restore
my hat againe to me. Then he like a very sociable
companion interposed himselfe betwixt us as a mediator.
But first he told me that I had committed a penal trespasse
in presuming to gather grapes in a vineyard without leave,
[p. 526.] affirming that the Germanes are so exceeding sparing of
their grapes, that they are wont to fine any of their owne
countreymen that they catch in their vineyards without
leave, either with purse or body ; much more a stranger.
Notwithstanding he promised to do his endevour to gct
my hat againe, because this should be a waming for me,
*-^nei. 6.
«54
OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS
and for that he conceived that opinion of me that I was a
good fellow. And so at last with much adoe this contro-
versie was compounded betwixt the cullian and my selfe,
my hat being restored unto me for a small price of redemp-
tion, which was twelve of their little coynes called fennies,
which countervaile twenty pence of our English money.
But I would counsel thee gentle reader whatsoever thou Cemelit^
art that meanest to travell into Germany, to beware by my f"'"^^'- '
example of going into any of their vineyardes without
leave. For if thou shalt happen to be apprehended in ipso
facto (as I was) by some rustical and barbarous Corydon
of the country, thou mayest perhaps pay a ferre deerer price
for thy grapes then I did, even thy dearest blood.
My Observations of Wormacia Otherwise called
civitas Vangionum, but most commonly Wormes.
THe situation of this femous city did as much delight ;
me as of any city whatsoever I saw in Germany. For '
if is situate in a most pleasant plaine that doth very plenti-
ftiUy yeeld great store of all manner of commodities
serving as well for pleasure as profit. For I saw goodly
store of corne, especially wheate growing in the fertile and
spacious fieldes about the city. Also they have great plenty
of feire vineyards, yea such exuberancie of all things I
observed in the whole compasse about the city, that I [p- S*7-]
think there is nothing wanting unto them that the heart
of man can desire. Besides it is much the more oppor-
tunely seated by reason of the noble river Rhene that
runneth neere unto it, yet not so neere that it watereth
the walles thereof, as it doth Mentz, but is so farre distant
(rom it as from the City of Spira, that is, about the space
of one fiirlong. I heard a thing in this city that I did not
a little wonder at, that the territory round about the same
is so exceedingly frequented with people, that there are <
no lesse then two hundred several townes & villages
within the space of foure Dutch miles of the city, which
doe make sixteene of our English. Withall he added
this, that it hath bene often observed that some people of
CORYATS CRUDITIES
each of these two hundred Townes and Villages have
repayred to the city to market, and retumed backe againe
the same night to their owne houses. A matter that
seemed so strange unto me, that I have neither read nor
heard of the like to be observed in so small a plotte of
groimd.
9imSngrf This City is esteemed of great antiquity. For somc
^orm. authors doe write that it was a colonie of the Trevirians,
and that it beganne to be built within a few yeares after
the City of Irevirs situate by the Mosella was founded
by that Babylonian Prince Trebeta the sonne of King
Ninus. The people that did first inhabite it were caUea
Van^iones, which was the name not only of the inhabitants
of tne City, but also of all such as dwelt round about in
divers places of the country a prety way remote from thc
City. From these Vanriones the City tooke her denomi-
nation of Civitas Vangionum, which name it retaineth to
this day. Also it was in former times called Berbero-
magum as learned Peucer doth write. Which name hc
saith is mentioned by Ptolomaeus in his Geographie.
From which word the present name Wormacia (for at this
day it hath two Latin names, viz. Civitas Vangionum and
I. 528.] Wormacia) taketh his denomination. For they make this
etymologie of it, Wormacia quasi Bormacia. As for thc
moderne Dutch word Wormes it is derived by cond^tion
of the letters from the Latin word Wormacia.
^ml^tngsof The buildings of this City are very faire, both sacred
^ ^9- and civill, and many of their streetes doe yeeld a beautifuU
shew both for length, breadth, and the stately houses on
both sides. Their walles are strong and ancient, and
beautified with faire gate-houses. Their Churches like-
wise, because the City standeth in a plaine, doe present a
most delectable and gorgeous sight to those that approach
towards the City from any quarter whatsoever, either west,
Uthedral north, or south ; especially their Cathedral Church dedi-
ihurckofS, cated to St. Peter, which being adomed with foure most
^^* eminent towers of a very magnificent structure, do exhibite
to the eies of the beholder a forme like to a cradle. The
256
OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS
like whereof I have before reported of the foure towers
of the Cathedrall Church of Spira. This Church of St.
Peter I visited, but observed no such memorable monu-
ments therein as our Lady Church of Spira yeelded to me,
and therefore I will passe it over with a word commending
it for a. building of notable magnificence, and {as I con-
jecture) of great antiquity, fhough I must confesse I know
not the historie of the foundation of it. Because nonc
of the learned men of the City, amongst whom I was very
inquisitive for the matter, could certifie me thereof. But
that which is wanting in the description of the Cathedrall
Church, shall be a little supplied with the mention of the
Bishops stately Palace adjoyning thereunto, although I Tie Bishaft
cannot write halfe so much of the same as I would have "''''"■'■
done if I could have obtained accesse into the inner roomes,
which I found to be a matter of great difficulty, because
the Bishop whose name was Gulielmus (more then that
they could not tell me) was resident in the country at his l^
Palace of Ladenburgum when I was in Wormes. So that
what I now write of the Palace is only of the frontispice tp 5^9-1
thereof, a matter of surpassing beauty ; and that which I
will report of this front is a thing so notably memorable,
that as I saw not the like before, and doe doubt whether
I shall ever see the like againe hereafter in any place of
Christendome in my fiature travels: so I hope it will be
very pleasant to the learned reader to reade so rare a
matter as I will now present unto him. Even the sacred
Prophecies of those twelve famous Prophetesses called the The S.ijr/6*j
Sibyllse, who although they were Pagans borne, and lived ^"5»^"'
and died amongst the Gentils, yet Almighty God did
infuse into them that evQto^ fiiror, that divine spirit of
prophecie, that they pronounced many excellent Orades
of the Saviour of the world Jesus Christ, whereof some
are such as doe in some sort aeree with the predictions of
Gods owne Prophets of his holy city Hierusalem. These
prophecies are written upon the front of the Bishops wall
(as I have akeady said) which hath beene lately so beauti-
fuUy repaired, that it is at this day fhe most sumptuous
CC. II 25; R
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
Thefirst
Tii siCMd
frofkicy,
[P- 530.]
Tki tkird
frophicj.
Tkifiurtk
frofhicy.
Tkififtk
profktcy.
Tki sixtk
fropkicy.
front of any Bishops Palace that ever I saw. Each of
these prophecies hath the picture of the authour thereof
made above it with her name annexed to the same, and a
notation of the yeare is added to some of them but not
to all, wherein they flourished before Christs incarnation.
The first is Sibylla Delphica \mder whom this is written.
Vixit ante adventum Christi 1525. And againe under
the same picture this prophecie is written in laire Roman
letters.
1. Nascetur Propheta absque coitu ex Virgine, eum
cognosces propriimi Dominum tuum, ipse verus erit Dei
filius.
The second is Sibylla Samia. Vixit Anno ante adventum
Christi 1365. Her prophecie is,
2. Ecce veniet dives & nascetur de pauperculsl, & bestise
terrae adorabimt eum, clamabunt, & dicent : Laudate emn
in atriis ccelorum.
The third Sibylla Erythraea. Vixit ante adventum
Christi Anno 1289. Her prophecie is,
3. In ultiml setate humiliaDitur Proles divina, jacebit
in f ceno agnus, & puellari ofFi educabitur.
The fourth Sibylk Phrygia. Vixit ante adventum
Christi 121 5. Her prophecie is,
4. Ex Olympo Excelsus veniet, & firmabit concilium
in cslo, & annimciabitur Virgo in valibus desertorum.
The fifth Sibylk Cumana. Vixit ante adventum Christi
550. Her prophecie is,
5. Magnus ab integro seclorum nascitur ordo,
Jam redit & Virgo, redeimt Saturnia regna,
Jam nova progenies ccelo demittitur alto.
Tu mod6 nascenti puero, quod ferrea *Pu
Desinet, ac toto surget gens aurea mimdo.
Casta fave Lucina, tuus jam regnat ApoUo.
The sixth Sibylla Hellespontia. Vixit Anno ante adven-
tum Christi 544. Her prophecie is,
6. De excelso cselorum habitaculo prospexit humiles
* I fbund it thus in the originaly by which what they mean I
know not,
258
OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS
suos, & nascetur in diebus novissimis de Virgine Hebrsei
cum cunabulis terrse.
The seventh Sibylla Tiburtina. Vixit ante adventum
Christi 92. Her prophecie is,
7. Nascetur Cluristus in fiethleem, annunciabitur in Tke seventk
Nazareth regnante Thauro pacifico fundatore quietis. O M?^-
fcBlix illa mater cujus ubera lactabunt illum.
The eighth Sibylla Cimerica. Vixit ante adventum
Christi 332. Her prophecie is,
8. In prima fade Virginis ascendet puella, facie pulchril, Tke eigktk
capillis prolixa» sedens super sedem stratam, puerum f^^*
nutriens, dans ei ad comedendum & bibendiun, jus pro-
prium lac de ccelo missum.
The ninth Sibylla Agrippa. Vixit ante adventum
Christi, &c. fHer prophede is,
9. En invisibile veroum palpabitur, germinabit ut radix, Tke mna
siccabitur ut folium, non apparebit venustas ejus, dram- M^*^-
dabitur alvus materni & florebit Deus Istitii sempitema, [p* 531*]
& ab hominibus conculcabitur.
The tenth Sibylla Libyca. Her prophede is,
10. £cce veniet dies, & illuminabit Dominus densa Tkiunik
tenebrarum & solvetur nexus Synagogae, & rednent labia t^^^P^'
hominum, & videbxmt regem viventium, & tenebit illum
in CTemio virgo Domina gentium, & regnabit in miseri-
cordii, & uterus matris ejus erit statera amctorum.
The eleventh Sibylla lEuropsea. Her prophede is,
1 1 . Venit ille, & transibit colles & latices Olympi, reg- Tke ibpentk
nabit in paupertate, & dominabitur in silentio, & egredietur fr^f^-
de utero Virginis.
The twelfm Sibylla Perfica. Hcr prophede is,
1 2. Ecce bestia conculcaberis, & gignetur Dominus in Tki twelftk
orbem terrarum, & gremium Virrinis erit salus gentium, M^*^*
& pedes ejus in valetudine honunum, invisibile verbum
palpabitur.
Above these pictures are written many elegant distiches
in divers severall places, two verses in a place, which seeme
fThe notation of her tiine u omittedy and 10 of all the rat
fbllowing.
«59
CORYATS CRUDITIES
to have beene newly written. I had a great desire to
write them out. But the time would not give me leave.
For that day that I wrote these Sibylline prophecies, I spent
but sixe hours in Wormes, by reason that a certain urgent
occasion called me away from the City even about noone,
which deprived me of the opportunity to write those
verses. Otherwise I had set them downe in this place.
Btsioffurf I will now give a little glance at the Bishopricke of
IVorms. Wormes, seeins: this discourse of the Bishops Palace doth
give me occJon to make some relation thereof . For
many yeares since this was an Archbishopricke, but by
whom it was first founded it is a matter altogether uncer-
taine. For some write (as Munster saith) that it was
instituted by Clodoveus the first Christian king of France,
about the yeare of our Lord 500. others againe doe report
[p- 53»0 that it began many yeares before. Which the said Mun-
ster proveth to be true. For he affirmeth that one Victor
Archbishop of Wormes was at the generall Counsell
holden at Colen in the yeare 348. with many other Bishops
that were assembled thither from all the famous Christian
coimtries of Europe for the deposing of Euphrates Arch-
bishop of Colen, because he was with such pertinacy
addicted to the Arrian heresie, that he would not be recon-
ciled to the xmity of the Church. The Archbishop of this
Citie was in ancient times a man of so great power and
Richistprelate eminent authority, that he was absolutely the richest
ofGermany. Pj-elate of all Germany. For he was Lord over all those
iarge territories which the Count Palatine of Rhene, the
Landgrave of Hassia, and the Archbishop of Mentz doe
possesse. Also he had no lesse then sixteene Bishops
under him that were subject to his jurisdiction as his
SufFragans. The first Archbishop was the foresaid Victor,
fi-om whose time the Archbishoprick flourished till the
time of Pipin King of France, who deposed one Guerilio
from his Archiepiscopall dienity by reason of a certaine
lewd fact that he had committed, and translated the Arch-
bishopricke from Wormes to Mentz, which hath ever
since retained it to this day. Also the said Archbishop-
260
OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS
ricke of Wormcs was from thcnceforth convertcd to a
Bishopricke, one Wernharius that immediatcly succeedcd
the foresaid Guerilio, being chosen the first Bishop thereof
in the timc of Carolus Magnus. From which timc the
Citie of Wormes hath bcne evcr graced with a Bishop by a
continuall and orderly succession of them till this prcsent
Bishop Gulicknus, whom I havc beforc mentioncd.
Thus much of the Archbishoprickc and Bishop
of Wormcs.
THe Praetorium or Senatc house of thc Citic that TkiSenau
adjoineth to the market place is a vcry sumptuous f^^-
building, the front whereof is beautified with many faire
pictures. But the faircst of all is of Fridericke the third
of that name Emperour, who is vcry gloriously painted [P- 533-]
in gold, sitting in his throne with his Imperiall crownc
upon his head, and his Scepter in his hand, and under him
this is written.
Fridericus 3. Imper. Aug.
1593-
Under that this.
Rcnovata cst hsec basilica 1592.
Againe under that I read this distich writtcn in goldcn
letters.
Astra Deo nil majus habent, nil Csesarc tcrra,
Si terram Csesar, si regit astra Dcus.
Also under that I read this inscription in a long line, above
the which two souldiers were painted in thcir armour,
leaning downe a little. And at onc cnd of thc front another
souldier in his complete armour, displajdng an ancicnt,
and at the other end is painted a Queene with a crowne
upon her head. This inscription (I say) did I reade there
in that long line.
Libertatem quam majores peperere dign^ studeat fovcre
posteritas. Turpe cnim esset parta non posse tueri.
361
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Quamobrem Vangiones quondam cum Julio conflictati jam
tibi CsBsar perpetul fide cohserent.
StatMis offour Next vmto this in another part of the same front are erected
Germmi ^^ statues of foure German Emperors that were bene-
fi^rors. factors to the citie, very sumptuously gilted for the better
ornament of the praetorium, with their imperiall Diadems
upon their heads, each canying a sword in one hand, and
a globe in another. 'They are represented onely to the
girdle : The first Carolus Quintus, the second Ferdicandus
Primus Csesar, the third Maximilianus Secxmdus, the
fourth Rodolphus Secundus. And under them is written
in golden letters Anno 1581. Georgio Euchario Mosbach
& Joanne Kigele Reipub. ^dilibus, basilica hsec est
sedificata. Againe under that I read this inscription
written in golden letters. Austriacae familise heroibus
vindicibus lioertatis patrise ultra C C L annos amissae
[p. 534.] vetustse Vangionum Wormaciae S P Q. beneficionun
memor locavit. Anno 1581. Also in the same ranke of
that part of the front this impresse foUowing is written
in the like golden letters upon a grovmd of Azure, neere
to the portraiture of a greene Dragon supporting a coate
of armes, wherein is figured a key; which dragon with
jirms of the rest is the armes of this Citie of Wormes. Draco
IVorms. ckvem tenens industria vastas solitudines excoli, fide &
constantia ad decus perveniri demonstrat. Hsec majores
Vangionum urbis suae arma esse voluerunt. Also another
part of this Praetorium is beautified with simdry notable
historicall descriptions of the ancient Romanes. Under
one whereof I read this foliowing.
Anciint Sexti Tarquinii regii filii libidine factum est, ut Romas
exactis regibus consulare imperium jurejurando consti-
tueretur, isque honos prim6 Lucio Junio Bruto sceleris
vindici decerneretur. Next this.
Patrii amoris vim ex animo potifis ejicere, liberosque
securi ferire quim libertatem civium perfidii imminui
nobili exemplo.
L I Br. docuit:
262
Romans.
OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS
Then againe this. Horatiutn CocUtcm contra omncs
hostium copias tenuit in ponte solum sine ulla spe salutis
siue patrise salus. Also this. Pro imperii gloria atque
dignitate magnum animum suscipiendum Mutius ad necem
Porsennee impulsus, docet. Last of all this. Ut Cloelia
Virgo, ita omnes suo casu aut confirmare patnE salutem,
aut periculum morari debent.
Under the Senate house there is a faire walke supported
with stately pillars that doe make a pretie arch at the top.
Also the roofe of the walke is finely painted, wherein are
made the pictures of all the Emperours. A sight very
beautifull.
The government of this Citie hath bene divers accord- Governmentaf
ing to the change of times, and it hath acknowledged many ' "^"
Lords, It was first subject to the Trevirians, as being a
colonie of the Citie of Trevirs, to whom they payed a [p. S3S-]
yearely tribute. Next, to the Romanes, where one or thcir
Prefects resided with a garrison of souldiers for the defence
of the citie against the Germans on the other side of the
Rhene. Their first Prefect was appointed by Julius Csesar,
who in the like manner assigned more Prefects with garri-
sons for other cities & townes, as I shall hereafter declare
in the description of them, the authoritie of each being
so limited, that he was subject to a superiour Governor
who was the Prefect of Mentz, or rathcr the Duke of
Mentz commonly called Dux Moguntinus, as I have
before written in my observations of Strasbourg. Thus
fbr the space of ;oo years this Citie sustained the yoke of
a servile subjection under the Romane Emperours, even
tiil the time of that flagellum Dei Attila King of the ^Drmi wM
Hunnes, who breaking with a great armie out of the ' ""^'
country of the Sicambrians which are now those of
Gelderland, destroyed this Citie together with all the
other famous cities that were situate on that banke
of the Rhene, which was in those daies esteemed a great
part of the Frcnch Kingdome. From the time of that
miserable ruine and depopulation, the Citie was ever ahen-
ated from the Romanes. Againe within fewe years after
363
CORYATS CRUDITIES
that desolation, the inhabitants of the territorv thereabout
reedified the City, adorning it with walles, Cnurches, and
goodly buildings. And within few yeares after these
reparations it came into the hands of the French kineSy
who governed it a long time ; and were so delighted with
the sweetnesse of the situation, and the opportunity of
the place, that some of them kept their Court there, as I
will hereafter mention. But at iength by the fatal revoiu-
tion of time it descended to the sway of the Germane
Emperours, whereof some have mced it partly with tfae
residence of their Court in this Citie, partly by the
solemnization of great marriages, and partly by the cele-
bration of generali counceis and other famous meetings,
[p 53^0 as I will by and by more particulariy declare. So that at
this day it flourisheth in a most opulent estate, and
enjoyeth great peace under their sacred dientele and
protection.
So delicate a place is this City of Wormes ^fbr indeed
I attribute much to it bv reason of the admirable amenitie
Frenci Kingt of the situation thereot) that some of the French Kings
rMdid at ^ j eftsoones keepe their royall residence here when it was
subject to their dominion, as I have before written, For
we reade that Pipin King of France kept his Court here in
the yeare 764. when he condemned Tassilo King of
Bavaria of treason. Also in the yeare 769. the said King
Pipins sonne Charies (who was afterward that most
renowned and victorious Emperour of Germanie sumamed
the Great, from the greatnesse of his valiant exploites) was
in this city crowned King of France. Againe in the yeare
770. Prince Adolphus tnat was the Generall Captaine of
King Charles forces, marched from this city with his armie
towards the Saxons, and in the yeare 779. brought with
him some of the Princes of Saxonie to this City as nostages
to King Charles. In the yeare 783. Charles being now
inaugurated into the Empire, solemnized a royall marriage
in Wormes with the Lady Fastrada, who was his fourth
wife, and the daughter of the Earie of Franconia. In the
yeare 790. the same Charles the Great kept his imperiall
264
OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS
tby ■
con- ^H
> ^l
Court for the space of a whole yeare in this City, but 1
reason that his Palace was casually burnt and utterly con-
sumed with fire, he removed his Court therehence to his
Palace of Ingelheim where he was borne, not farre from
the City of Mentz. Moreover there have bene five
femous Councels kept in this City. Whereof the first ^^*' Cnundls
was celebrated by Ludovtcus Pius the Emperour and sonne ^ '"^''
of the foresaid Charles the Great in the yeare 829. The
second by Ludovicus the second who was the sonne of the
foresaid Emperor in the yeare 868. in the moneth of May,
having asscmbled together a great multitude of Princes
and Bishops against the errors of the Grecians. The third (
by Henry the third and Pope Leo the ninth about the
time of Christs nativity (which we commonly call Christ-
masse) in the yeare 1051. The fourth by that worthy
Emperour of sacred memorie Henry the fourth in ihe
yeare 1076. which Councell is much the more famoused
for that by the consent of all the German Bishops which
he then assembled together, saving those of Saxonie, he
deposed Pope Hildebrand otherwise called Gregorie the
seventh. The same Emperour at d\\
frequented this City, because ii
s other times much 1
1 the middest of all his bittCT 1
persecutions and conflicts which he sufFered by meanes of
the Romish Clergie, he found Wormes a most secure 4
refrige and shelter for him ; the Citizens being so lovingly
inclined to succour him in his afflictions that they nevor i
forsooke him, but exposed both their bodies and goods
for his safety to the very utmost of their power, which
thing hath purchased them no small praise. The fifth and fifthandjast
last Counceli by the Emperour Henry the fifth in the ^^*»"'-
yeare 11 22. the Bishop of Ostia being sent thither with
two Cardinals in the behalfe of the Pope, at what time that
great controversie was composed betwixt the secular
Princes and the Ecclesiasticall Prelates about the bestow-
ing of Bishopricks and spirituall preferments. As for
great marriages celebrated in this City, I have read of one
very famous marriage kept here besides that before men-
tioned of Charles the Great, which I am the more willing '
a6s
hich I
and FiftkoHdhit
the <^oi"i"'-
ffith
that ^^1
ular ^^H
ow- ^^H
for ^l
one ^^1
len- Famous ^^M
ling marriaga.^^^
CORYATS CRUDITIES
to mention becaiise the woman here married was bcnme
in my owne country of England. For here in the yeaie
1235. or thereabout, the Emperour Fredericke the second,
solemnized a most pompous marriage with the Lady
Isabella the daughter of King John of England. This
Lady was his third wife. Amon£[St many other thinss
that historians have written of this City one memorable
matter is of one of our English Kings, even King Richard,
538.] for whose memorie sake I wili make some mention of
him ; after that William King of the Romans was slaine
by the Frisians there was a great jarre betwixt the Elector
Princes about the eiection of a new Emperour. For some
of them stoode for Alphonsus King of Castella, others
mgRkkard for Richard King of England. In this Dissension the
En^d. chiefest Princes which were of the predominant faction,
namely the two Archbishops of Mentz and Colen, and
Ludovicus Count Palatine of Rhene, chose the fbresaid
King Richard. Whereupon shortly after this election he
travelled into Germany, and after many solicitations and
neat promises of favour he was honourably entertained
m this City of Wormes in the yeare 1258. in the moneth
of Julie. But before he was admitted within the gates
of the City, the Wormacians drew him to this composition,
that he should presently disburse ten thousand markes of
siiver for the necessity of the City: which being pcr-
formed according to their demand, they afterward did
homage irnto him. After which time King Richard
returned into England, and about two yeares after, even
in the yeare 1260. came backe againe to Wormes, where
he was a prety while resident in the City, diiring the time
of whose residence there he compounded certaine contro-
versies both betwixt the city of Wormes & the towne of
Oppenheim, and aiso betwixt Wormes it seife and some
Nobiemen of the same City. Moreover the same King
itof celebrated a famous Diet in tliis City of Wormes about
"^* nine yeares after that, even in the yeare 1269. and con-
duded a publique peace in the whole City, abolishing all
manner of toUes and taxes both by land and water. All
a66
OBSERVATIONS OF WORMS
these memorable histories tending to the illustration of
this renowned city of Wormes, I have thought good to
insert into these my observations, as I have found them
in Munsters Cosmographie, unto whom they were sent
fi-om the Senate of the same City (as he himsetfe affirmeth)
by way of an epitome of the Wormacian Annals, for the
better garnishing of his Cosmographicall volume.
What famous persons of great marke have bene buried
in this city I know not, because I surveyed not the monu-
mentes, but surely I heard of no more then one great man,
who was a Prince of great renowne in his daies. Namely
one Conradus Duke of Franconia, surnamed the Wise,
who was the sonne in lawe of the Emperour Otho Magnus,
whose daughter Ludgarda he married. This Conradus
was slaine with an arrow in that famous battel that the
foresaid Emperor fought with the Hungarians upon the
fourth day of August anno 955, neere to the city of
Augusta, from which place his body was afterward brought
hither to Wormes, and here interred. But it was not my
hap fo sce the monument it selfe.
One principall thing that I observed in my observations
of Basil, Strasbourg, and Heidelberg, namely the writing
of a short index of such famous proressours of learning as
have lived or died therein, l have omitted in these two last
cities of Spira and Wormes. Because I have neither read
nor heard of any excellent men that they ever bred. Onely
Wormes was once adorned with one singular scholer
whome I wiU not let passe without mention, and yet but
briefly name him, because I have ah-eady spoken of him
in my observations of Heidelberg. This was Joannes
Dalburgius a very rare man in the age wherein he lived,
& a great Mecoenas and fosterer of learned men : who
after he had enjoyed the Episcopall dignity foure yeares,
died in the yeare 1503. in his Palace of Ladenburgum.
More then him I cannot name in this city of Wormes.
It remayneth now that I speake a httle of the religion
of this city, according to that course that 1 have hitherto
observed in every German city saving Basil. Therfbre I
267
[p- 539-]
itn omiimn.
• J 1
Tie rt/igion e/
I
CORYATS CRUDITIBS
will briefly tx^uch this, and so make an end of this history
). 540.] of Wormcs. The rehgion is mixed as that of Spira. For
it is partly Protestant of the Lutheran religion, and parthr
Papisticall. Unto the Papistes belongeth the Cathedrall
Church as that of Spira, because the Bishop of this City is
a Papist. But the Protestant faction is both the greater
in number, and the stronger in power. For abnost all the
better families of the City are Protestant.
Thus much of Wormes.
I
Departed from Wormes about halfe an hower after
twelve of the clocke the eleventh of September being
fpenheim. Sunday, and came to Oppenheim a pretty faire towne in
the lower County Palatine, which is about twelve miles
beyond Wormes, about sixe of the docke in the evening.
I observed a very fruitfull soyle in all that space of ground
betwixt Wormes and Oppenheim bearing notable com-
modities, as corne, vineyardes^ &c. This Towne belongeth
to the Pfaltzgrave of Rhene, and professeth the same
religion that he doth. Here died Rupertus King of the
Romanes who was afterward buried at Heidelbo^g, as I
have before mentioned in my notes of that City. The
inhabitants of this towne do attribute very much to the
situation of it. For they affirme that it is situate in the
ppenhem same manner as holy Jerusalem was : Because it standeth
mparedwith upon the side of a hill. For so we may reade that a part
^rusalem. of Jerusalem stood, even the same part which is called
Sion, which (as Historians do write) was built upon thc
very side of a hill, the toppe whereof was adorned with
King Davids Palace. Also the inhabitants of the City of
Bergomo in Italy (whereof I have before written) may as
well compare the situation of their City with that of
Jerusalem, as these men of Oppenheim. For that standeth
as pleasantly upon the side or a hill as this doth. Truly
the sight of them both is so pleasant that the Cidzens may
justly boast of it. They have one pretty Church in
. 541.] Oppenheim called Saint Catharines which is seene afarre
off.
268
1
nd ^^'"wft' T1
OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE
■ I departed from Oppenheim the twelfth day of Sep-
tember being munday about sixe of the clocke iii the
morning, and came to the city of Mentz about tenne of the
clocke in the morning. which was tenne miles beyond it.
It was my hap in this journey betwixt Oppenheim and
Mentz to have such a notable companion as I never had
before in all my life. For he was both learned and ■
unlearned. Learned because being but a wood-cleaver
(for he told me that he was the Jesuits wood-deaver nf
Mentz) he was able to speake Latine. A matter as rare
in one of that sordid facidtie as to see a white Crowe or
a blacke Swanne. Againe he was unlearned, because the
Latin which he did speake was such incongruall and dis-
joynted stuffe, such antipriscianisticall eloquence, that I
thinke were grave Cato alive (who for his constant scverity
was caJled a-yfXatrror, because he never or vcry seldome
laughed) he should have more cause to laugh if he should
heare this fellow deliver his minde in Latin, then when he
saw an Asse eate thistles.
My Observations of Mcguntia otherwise called
Moguntiacum, but commonly Mentz.
THe situation of this City is pleasant, yet not com- *'«'«'«" 9
parable to that of Strasbourg, Spini, and Wormes. "J"""
For each of these standeth in a pleasant plaine. But this
is inclosed on the south and east sides with a hill, which me
thinkes doth something eclipse the beauty of the city.
Yet these hilles are very commodious to Mentz. For
they are most plentifully planted with faire vineyardes.
All the north side is washed with the river Rhene which
runneth hard by the walles thereof. I observed that this
city is built in a longer formc then any other German [P- H*-]
citie that I saw, saving Heidelberg, the breadth of it being
not very great. Yet this lenpth doth yeeld a passing faire
shew to those that approach towards the city from any
quarter either by land or water, saving onely from the
south. Because the hilles on that side doe interclude the
sight of the city. The streetes are raany, and some very
169
CORYATS CRUDITIBS
faire, being adorned with many goodly buildings of ^preat
antiquity, whereof divers I observed foure stories hieh;
aiso their walles are very strong and ancient, & beautmed
Thi micient ^ith five gates. But the oide Mentz that flourished in
^^* the dme of Julius Csesar, stood not so neere the Rhene as
this doth ; but higher upon the hill, as it doth manifesdy
appeare by those ancient rudera that I perceived in divers
places of the same hill. Which being afterward destroyed
by Attila King of the Himnes, the foimders of this second
city thinking this to be a more opportune place fbr the
. building of their City then that upon the hfll, have now
built it hard by the Rhene, as I have ah-eady said. I finde
some diiference amongst the historians about the first
founder of this City. For some write that it was built
by Prince Trebeta the founder of Trevirs and Strasbourg.
DerivaHoH of CHhers ascribe the first foundation to one Mofi^tius a
*^' Trojan, fix)m whom they say it hath the denomination of
Moguntia. And others a^ne do affirme that the name
Moguntia is deri ved fi*om Moganus a river running neere
to it, which is otherwise called Mcenus that runneth by the
city of Franckford. For at this City the Moenus and
the Rhene do meete and make a confluent, as at Lyons
the Arar and the Rhodanus, at the Citie of Confluencs
(whereof I shall heereafter speake) the Mosella and the
Rhene. How this appellation of Mogxmtia degenerated
in processe of time to this moderne name of Mentz I do
not know. But the like abbreviation I perceive hath
hapned to other German Cities. For the old name of
[p- 5430 Aquisgranum that noble City of Province is now come to
Aach, Turegiun (of whom I have before written) the
Metropoiitan of Switzerland to Zurich, Rubeachum a
fiunous City of Alsatia to Rusach, Wormacia to Wormes,
and so Moguntia to Mentz.
Thi The chiirches of the city are tenne, whereof the
rl^f^"^ Cathedrall is a building very sumptuous, and adorned with
a tower of a very emment heigth, but inferiour to other
German churches that I saw berore, especially those two of
Basii and Strasbourg. This church is dedicated to Saint
270
OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE
:ntz ^^^^^M
the ^^^H
Martin, and was first founded about the yeare loi i
one Willigisus the foure and thirtieth Bishop of Mentz 1
that was privie Counseller to the Emperour Otho the I
second, and the first elector of the Empire of all the
Moguntine Archbishops. Of whom it is written that he '"*' »"^"'' "/
had the picture of a wheele painted in his refectory with ^ ■^""' "J
this inscription
Willigise memineris quid sis, et quid ollm fijeris.
Since which time the wheele hath ever beene the armes
of the Archbishoprick of Mentz, and confirmed by the
Emperour Henry the second surnamed the Holy. This
foresaid Cathcdrall church was onely begun by that Bishop
Willigisus, but not finished by him. For the third Bishop
that succeeded him, one Bardo Abbot of Fulda was the
man that brought that noble worke to perfection, I
observed a thing both in this church, & in most of the
other German churches, as also in many of the civill
buildings of their cities, that I could never perceive in
any of mine owne country of England, or France, Savoy,
or Italy : that in the outside of the roofe of their buildings,
even in the middest of the tiling they have a great company
of open places like windowes contrived in both sldes of P?'*
the roofe, to what use it served I could not devise. For ™"
if it be made for light sakc, it seemeth in my opinion
something needlesse, because the other windowes of the
same edifice do minister sufficient light. Therefore I
thinke it served for some other use, which unto me is
altogether unknowne. Many goodly monuments this fP' 544-]
church contayneth both ancient and moderne, but especially
of their Bishops, Whereof one I observed to be more
beautifull then the rest, which is erected on the north slde ■
of the body of the Church, and inserted into one of the I
maine pillers. This is of their last Archbishop. His ^"
statue is erected at length in his episcopall ornaments, J^^^'^'
most curiously carved in alabaster with a miter on his
head exceeding richly beset with pearles and precious
stones fairely reprcsented in the same. Also it is garnished
i
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
with many pillars of costly marble, and sundry goklen
scutchins. At the top of all two Angels are pourtrayed
sitting, and holding a peece of parchment in their right
hands, wherein this is written,
Memento homo qu6d dnis es.
And in their left handes lilies. Above them is represented
an other Angel soimding of a Trumpet. Beneath, about
the base of the monument, this Epitaph is written upon a
faire peece of touchstone.
D. O, M.
R"^ et IU*^ Dfio Dno Wolphango de nobili et vetusti
Camerarionmi de Wormacii dictorum k Dalburg fiunilii :
Archiepiscopo et Principi Electori Mogxmtino prudentia,
eloquentia, et justitia singulari, de tota Ecclesia et repub.
ben^ merito, anno Dni 1592. magno omnium desideno et
consensu electo, in regimine annis 19. moderato et pad-
fico; anno denique 1601. die Aprili 5°. pih pladd^ue
defuncto, et hic publico omnium luctu recondito Joannes
Suicardus Successor Prsedecessori meritissimo F. C. Anno.
1606.
AIso on the South side of the Ch\m:h, a little within thc
entrance, I saw another more sumptuous monument then
this before mentioned, of a certayne Bishop of Wormes,
who was also Warden and Deane of this Cathedrall Church
cewitaph. ^f Mentz. I take this monument to be nothing else then
a cenotaphium, that is, a Sepulchre void of a body, being
545.] erected only for honour sake, according to the custome of
the ancient Romans. For it appeareth by the epitaph
subscribed that the body was buryed at Wormes. It is
raised to an exceeding heigth, even thirty foote high by
my estimation, garnished with goodly pillars of great
value, partly of changeable-coloured marble and partly of
touch-stone; and adorned with great store of Scutdhins
and Armes, curious golden borders, and workes. About
the middle is made the effigies of him at length in his
Episcopall ornaments with his Crosier, and his hands that
are covered with his episcopall red gloves, are elevated to
27S
OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE
the image of Christ erected opposite utito it upon a Ikire
Crosse of touch-stone. Under the same this epitaph ii
written in golden letters upon a feire ground of touch-
stone,
Georgius Dei gratia Episcopus Wormacien,
ex nobili famiha k Sconenburg ortus, hujus
Metropolitanie Ecclesia; Prsepositus, ac pniis
Annis xviii. Decanus, tandem vero Cae-
saris Rodolphi II. vices in Conventu De-
putatorum Imperii gerens obiit SpirE,
sepultus autem Wormacix in Ecclesia
Cathedrali. In pace quiescit Princeps de
Repub. Christiana ac presertim Ecclesia
cui prudentia singulari, studio & labore
indefesso, laudeque eximia prsfuit atque pro-
fuit, optim^ meritus. Anno M. D. Ixxxxv.
die xi. Mensis Augusti,
Opposite unto this rich monument there is a marvailou*
curious Altar adorned with great variety of marble, and
exquisite images gilted and carved in Alabaster. Amongst
the rest I noted one thing very attentively, even a great
Whale swallowing up the Prophet Jonas, A device pass-
ing finely contrived. Many other goodly monuments I
saw there of their Prelats and others decked with Epitaphs,
which the shortnesse of time would not give me feave to
write out. Besides I observed two faire Pulpits in the
body of the church. Whereof one was verj' sumptuous,
the toppe being wonderfull curiously decked with many
excellent works richly gilted, yet al made in wainscot :
besides I noted certaine pretty little images of alabaster
very artificially expressed in the same toppe, As of thc
three principal christian vertues, Faith, Hope, and
Charity. Also the foure Cardinall morall vertues, Justice,
Fortitude, Prudence, and Temperance. There are written
these two sentences out of Saint Paul.
Stella a stella differt in claritate : sic resurrectio mor-
tuorum. I. Cor, 15. ca. also above that this is written in
epitafi.
[p. s+6.] i
CORYATS CRUDITIES
golden letters. Praedica verbiim, insta opportun^ impor-
tune, argue, obsecra, increpa, in onmi patientia et doctnni.
2. Tim. 4.
CoHvertm 0/ This City was converted to Christianity in the time of
MayeiKi. gj^jj^ VzyjX the Apostle as soone as any city of all Germany.
For eyther Crescens which was one of Saint Pauls scholars
whome he mentioneth in the second £p. to Tim. 4. cap. 10.
ver. or Crescentius who was aiso his Schoier, was the first
Apostle of this city, and (as they say) the first Bishop.
Atter whom there was a succession of many holy and godly
AnEnfitfMM Bishops. But their first Archbishop was mine owne
A Unshi f co^tryman (as I have both often read, & aiso heard from
MMjencef ^*^ learned Jesuite Nicoias Serrarius of Mentz) whome
I will therefore honoris causH, mention. Even Bonifadus
an Engiishman, one of the rarest and worthiest men that
ever possessed the Sea of Mentz, and therefi^re much
celebrated amongst the ieamed Germanes for his divine
learning and holy conversation of life. His name was
first Wmifride, and was a Benedictine Monke (as Serrarius
told me) befbre he came to Mentz. He was the seven-
teenth fiishop of this City, and came over in the time of
Pipin King of France, about the yeare 776. At what timc
the Archbishoprick of Wormes being extinct in the timc of
their Archbishop Gervilio, was translated hither, as I have
befbre reported in my observations of that City. This
[p* 547O Boniface was in a manner the second Apostle of Germanyi
and much reformed divers Churches in many parts of that
Country, as in Thuringia and elsewhere (as I have reade in
the workes of learned Melanthon) greatly taxing the
Priestes for adultery, and infiicting the punishments of a
whole yeares imprisonment upon the ofi^endours. He was
Archbishop of this City five and tiiirty yeares, and thc
founder or that most famous Abbey of Fulda in Buchonia,
which remaineth yet to this day, and is esteemed one of
the most magnificent Monasteries of all Christendome ;
in the which at last he himselfe was buried, after he had
suffered martyrdome in his old age amongst the Frisians
for the free preaching of the Gospeli. So that his monu-
274
OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE
mcnt is shewed in that Abbey to this day. Besides many
other worthy Archbishops that flourished in this City after '
my countryman Bonifacius, Rabanus Maurus that was once
Abbot of the foresaid Abbey of Fulda, is much celebrated
by authors, being the fifth Archbishop after Bonifecius,
whome I therefore name because he was the disciple of
an other most femous and learned countryman of mine
owne, Venerabilis Beda, I have beforc mcntioned who
was the first elector Archbishop of this city, namely
Willigisus. Ever since which time the Archbishop of this ^*'
city hath beenc a sovcraiene Prince of most eminent „'"'' " *'* "^
authonty. ror besides his great a>gniory and Jarge terri- ,tt'ereipi
tory that he hath to maintame his principalitie, he is the Prince.
cheef Elector Prince of the sacred Roman Empire next to
the King of Bohemia above al the rest. Also he is intituled
Chancellor of Germany for the more addition of dignity.
Moreover his spirituall jurisdiction extended it selfe so
farre that he hath these i2 Bishopricks subject to his sea,
namely that of Curia in Rhetia, Constaiice in Suevia, Stras-
bourg in Alsatia, Spira, Wormes, Wirceburgum Franconia, f
Augusta in Vindelicia, Aistet in Bavaria, Padeborna in
Westphalia; in Saxony these 3. Hildiheim, Halberstat, &
Verda. The name of him that was the present Archbishop [
of Mentz when I was there was Joannes Suicardus, who
then kept his resldence at a palace he had in the countrie.
I observed his Palace in the Citie to be a building of great
magnificence standing about the farther end of the west
part of Mentz, and built hard by the Rhene, whlch to
those that comc to the Citie eyther by water, or by the
North side of the land doth present a very faire shew,
and much beautifie that part of the Citie. AIso there is
another goodly building adjoyning next to it, which is the
Chancery house of the Citie.
The antiquities of this Citie both sacred and civill are ■^«^jiitie' qf
more then in any City whatsoever in all Germany. In so ^'O"*''-
much that the foresaid Jesuite Serrarius hath lately written
a very elegant booke of the Moguntine antiquities which
he shewed me; having dedicated it to the present Arch-
a7S
CORYArS CRUDITIES
bishop Joannes Suicardus. But it was my chance to soe
but one of them, which of all the civill is esteemed the
most remarkable in the whole Citie. And indeed a thing
very worthy the observation both for the worthincsse of the
founder, the nobility of the worke, and the mention of it
in ancient authors. In that I came to the sight of it I do
thankfuUy acknowledge my selfe beholding to the foresaid
Jesuite, who very kindly procured me the meanes to see
c aT' ^^* ^^ nothing else then a stonie Colossus erected in
^ ^' a vineyard upon the top of a certaine hill on the South
side of the Citie, (where in fbrmer times a part of the
ancient Citie stood) neere to a Monastery dedicated to St.
James, in which there is a convent of St. Bennets Monks
at this day. The vineyard is invironed round about with
a wall of a convenient height, to the end to preserve the
monument that none may come to it without leave.
And there is but one way to it by a dore that is
alwaies locked. The author of this was Drusus Nero the
sonne in law of Augustus Cscsar by his fburth and last wife
[p« 549-] Livia Drusilla, and the brother of the Emperour Tiberius.
This monument did he erect just about the time of Christs
incarnation, when he waged warre with the Germanes in
this place (as both Cornelius Tacitus and Suetonius do
make mention) leaving it unto posterity as a memorial of
his name, that he had once skirmished there with the
Germanes, and conquered them in battell. The thing it
selfe is a very huge and massie moles of stones ranuned
together, and made something in the forme of an akome.
For which cause it is called in the Germane tongue Cichd-
stein which signifieth an akorne. Howbeit the lower part
of it differeth something from the fashion of an akome.
But the higher part resembled it as neere as can be. For
all the lower part from that part of the foundation which
appeareth above the ground to almost the middle, is made
square, whereas the lower part of an akorne is round ; and
from corner to corner I take it to be almost fortie foote.
All the higher part ascendeth lesser and lesser towards the
top, yet aJter such a round manner, that it doth very
376
OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE
artificiaily resemble an akorne. One very strange thine I -^ stroHff
observed in this masse, that whereas I and another Gentle- "'"'■
man that went with me to see it, stroke the stones of the
worke at the farther corners, he at one corner, and I at
another, with little stones that we tooke up for the same
purpose ; the noise of the stroake would easily be heard
from one corner to another which were about fiftie foote
asunder, though we strooke the stones of the moles as soft
as could be possible, A matter much to be wondered at
except either the foundation be hollow, or some part of the
same square masse. A Gentleman of good quality told
me that when Albertus Marquesse of Brandenburg did of
late yeares oppugne this Citie with great hostilitie, he
did set a worke certaine masons to pull it downe, as being A hard lasi.
a prophane Pagan monument. But they found such
extreme difficuity in pulling the stones asunder, though
they iaboured most painfiiliy with their mattocks and other [p- SSo-]
instruments, that after they had done a littie they ceased
from their worke. For tliey found it almost as difficult
to puU it downe as to build it up, by reason that the stones
are with such admirable hardnesse compacted together.
Yel that which they did to the upper part of it, hath much
disfigured and biemished the grace of the monument.
Besides many other things that have greatly graced this
city, and made it famous over alJ Christendome, as the
Archiepiscopal dignity, the antiquity of the foundation,
the noble monuments, the sumptuousnesse of their build-
ings publikeand private, thefrequencyof peopieinhabiting
the same, and the opportunity of the situation, that most
incomparably excellent art of printing which was first ■^''}''f
invented in this city, is not to bee esteemed the least, nay f""'"'SJ'^"
rather it deserveth to bee ranked in an equal dignity with Majtnce. "
the worthiest matter of the whole city, if not to bee
preferred before it. For in this City of Mentz was the
divine art (to give it an epitheton more then ordinary by
reason of the excellency or the invention) of printing first
devised by a Gentleman or rather a Knight of this city
one Joannes Cuttenbergius in the yeare of our Lord one
377
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
thousand foure hundred and forty, even in that veiy yeare
that Fredericke the third was inaugurated into the Empire ;
and in the time of their Archbishop Theodoricus who was
the sixty seventh after Crescens the first Apostle of the
City. Well might that ancient Poet write those verses in
praise of this noble art that Kirchnerus hath cited in his
oration of Germany; which I have inserted into my
observations ;
O Germania muneris repertrix,
Quo non utilius dedit vetustas,
Libros scribere, qux doces, premendo.
For surely if we rightly consider it, we shall finde it to
be one of the most rare and admirable invendons that ever
was since the first foundation of the world was laid. For
[p. 551.] what I pray can be devised in rerum naturi more strange
then that one man should be able by his Characters com-
posed of tinne, brasse, & *stibium to write more lines
in one day then the swiftest Scrivener in the world can
do in a whole yeare ? according to that old verse
Imprimit ima dies quantiun vix scribitur anno.
A matter that may seeme incredible to the understanding
of many men, yet most certainely verified by experience.
FsrtMis of By vertue of this arte are communicated to the publike
pnnnng. yjg^g ^f ^hg Worlde the monuments of all learned authors
that are set abroach out of the sacred treasiirie of antiquity,
and being now freed from that Cimmerian darknesse
wherein they lurked for the space of many hundred yeares,
and where they did cum tineis ac blattis rixari, to the great
prejudice of the common weale of learning, but espedally
of Gods Church, are divulged to the common light, and
that to the infinite utility of all lovers of the Muses and
professours of learning. By this arte all the liberall
sciences are now brought to full ripenesse and perfection.
Had not this art bene invented by the divine providence of
^This is a kind of white stone found in silver mines which thej
use in printing.
278
invention of Vnheniij ^
Mayetue.
OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE
God, it was to be feared lest the true studies of all dis-
ciplines both divine & humane would have suffered a
kind of shipwrack, and have bene halfe extinct before this
age wherein we breathe. I would to God we would
thankefully use this great benefite of our gracious God
(as a learned author saith) not to the obscuration but the
illustration of Gods giory, not to dis-joine but rather
to conjoine the members of Christes militant Church here
on earth.
Within a short spacc after this singular
printing ensued the institutjon of a University in this
city, in the time of the Archbishop Theodoricus, under
whom printing began. I think this University was never
great, Surely what it was in former times I know not,
but at the time of my being there it consisted principally
of one Colledge, which was that of the Jesuites, a building [?■ !
that was lately founded within these few yeares, and
endowed with convenient maintenance by the munificence
of the Archbishops, whereof Joannes Suicardus who was
Bishop when I was there, (as I have before said) hath bin
a notable benefactor to it. This CoUedge is a convenient
faire house, but much inferiour to the majestie of divers
Colledges in our famous Universities of Oxford and Cam-
bridge, to whome I attribute so much for the statelinesse
of their building, that I preferre some of them by many
degrees before any Colledges that I saw in my travells.
It was my hap to visite this Colledge, where Nicolaus
Serrarius the Antesignanus of all the Jesuiticall femilie
used me more kindely and famjliarly then I thinke he
doth every Protestant that commeth to him. For besides
other courtesies he shewed me their Library, which is a Tit Liirarj,
passing feire place, and furnished with great variety of
excellent bookes, especially Theologicall. I will give this
Serrarius his due ; for Virtus etiam in hoste micat : cer-
tainly he is a man of that excellent learning, that hee
deserveth great praise. Also he is reported to be so rare
a linguist, chat I heard he speaketh at least sixe languages.
I would to God hee would cease to write so virulently
CORYATS CRUDITIES
fii^ near
Majinci.
[P. 553.]
against our Protestants, e^>ecially poore Martin Luther»
whom he hath most bitterly exagitated in that invective
booke intituled de Lutheri magistro, by magistro meaning
the Devill.
Besides these two things iast mentioned, the art of
printing and their Universitie, this City is much ceiebrated
by historiographers for three other matters. First the
fighting ot many famous battels neare to tfais City.
Secondly for certaine notable bridges built here over thc
Rhene. Thirdly for the death of great personages in the
£^^^' same City. The principall battels fought there were
wajB^ed by the Romans : as by Drusus Nero whom I have
betore mentioned, who skirmished in this place with the
Germans. But this was not the place where he brake his
legge by falling from his horse, as some doe write. For
that mischance he had at the towne of Bing (as I will
hereafter mention) which is situate about some ten miles
beneath Mentz upon the left banke of the Rhene. Also
Awelianus the sixe & thirtieth Roman Emperor fought a
great battell here with the Franci,* when he was but a yong
man, before he was chosen into the Empire, and in that
skirmish got a glorious victorie by slaying at the least
thirty thousand of them. Likewise the Emperour Otho
swnamed the Great, brought a great armie hither against
his rebellious sonne Ludolphus (whom I shall hereafter
mention againe) intending to have incountred him in
battell, but it hapned otherwise. For Ludolphus not
daring to skirmish with his father, contained himself within
the walles of the City, where after he had beene besieged
for the space of nine weekes, there was a truce concluded
betwixt his father and himselfe. The bridges that were
built here were two, very famous for their founders. For
the iirst was built by Julian the Apostat the three and
fortieth Emperour of Rome, and is mentioned by Anmii-
anus Marcellinus the historiographer, which he caused to
be made after he had conquered the Alemannes about
Strasbourg, as I have before mentioned. After that battell
* These were Gerxnam, and the inKabitants of Franconia.
2S0
Famom
brUgts,
OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE
he came thus farre down with his armie from Alsatia, and
made this bridge for the better conveighing of his Souldiers
over the Rhene, to the end to skirmish with the Germans
on the other side of the water : the other bridge was buUt
by the Emperour Charlemaine in the year 813. he
bestowed marvailous cost on this bridge, though it wer»
made but of timber. For the workemen were ten whole
yeares building ot it ; who compacted it together with
such admirable strength, that it was thoughl it would have
lasted for ever. But in the yeare of our Lord 823. even
in the moneth of May, it hapned by a very dismall chance
to be utterly consumed with fire, the raging furie whereof [p.
wasted that in the space of three houres, which ten yeares
labour with infinite cost did scarce joyne together. As
for great persons that ended their lives in this City I
have read of foure especially of eminent marke. The
first was that famous Roman Emperor Alexander Severus,
who by the meanes of one Maximinus a Thracian Captaine
that succeeded him afterward in the Empire, was here most
cruelly slaine by a company of seditious souldiers that he
appointed for the same purpose, even after he had lived
nine and twenty yeares, three moneths and seven daies.
His death was the more memorable because the historians
write that he died the very same day that Alexander the
Great did, which was the eight and twentieth of Julie,
being the day of his nativity also. The second was that
vertuous Lady Mammea mother to the foresaid Emperour,
and Aunt to that vicious Emperour Heliogabalus, who
was slaine here at the same time with her sonne. Th©
third an Empresse, whose name was Fastrada, the fourthJ
wife of the Emperour Charlemaine, of whom I have madei
mention before in my Observations of Wormes, In this
City shee was buried in the year 792. in the Church of.
St. Albanus. Also in the same Church is shewed the
monument of Ludolphus Duke of Suevia, the eldest sonne
of the Emperour Otho surnamed the Great, by his firstf
wife Edith an English Lady. This Ludolphus died a
naturall death in Lombardie after he had gotten the victory
The Roman
Emptror
CORYATS CRUDITIES
of King Berengarius the third of that name, being sent
against him by his father Otho. But his body was after-
ward brougrht to this City of Mentz by the meanes of his
brother William Bishop thereof . Ludovicus Pius thc first
Emperoiu* of that name, and the sonne of the Emperor
Charlemaine, died in this City in the threescore and fourth
yeare of his age, after he had reigned seven and twenty
yeares : but his body was afterward bwied in the City of
[p* SSSO Mentz neare his mother Hildegardis. Likewise many
Sahtsand ^f Qods Saints and holy Martyrs of the Church have
^ ' beene crowned in this Citv with the crowne of martyr-
dome. But the chiefest or all was the foresaid Albanus,
who being a Grecian borne was expelled out of his native
City Phihppi of Greece (unto the inhabitants whereof St.
Paul wrote his Epistle) by certaine Heretiques of his
country in the yeare 425. and shortly after amved at this
City of Mentz, together with one of his countrymen
cailed Theonestus, where at length he suffered death for
the Gospels sake, and was buried in a part of the dty,
where there was a Church erected afterward to the honour
of his name. In which the body of the foresaid Empresse
Fastrada doth lie interred.
One thing that is very memorable I wiU not omit in
the discourse of this famous City of Mentz, that it gave
the first vitall light to that learned and Rhetoricall Shee-
Pope JottH. Pope Joane, where after shee had sate two yeares in the
Popedome, immediately after Leo the fourth, she died
in child-birth. For it is most certaine that shee was borne
in this place, being confirmed by the authority of many
learned and ancient authours, though Onuphrius Panu-
inius an Augustinian Frier of Verona, and some of the
Patriarches of the Jesuiticali societie have of late yeares
gone about to prove the contrary.
Ju&usCMf^s Julius Caesar having conquered all the Cities on this
^Gal&cum ^^^^ ^^ ^^ Rhene which was in his time called Gallicum
Rttus. littus, the shore of Gallia, &c. planted garrisons in each
of them as I have ah-eady said, ror the better fortification
of the place, and to keepe the bordering people living in
283
OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE
the same territorie in awe and subjection of the Romans.
For which cause he assigned Lieutenants called in Latin
Prcefecti, to all the principall Cities and Townes that hc
had conquered. But him rhat he appointed Governour
of this City he placed in a more eminent degree of dignity
then the rest. For he intitled him Dux Moguntinus, as
I have before written in my Observations both of Stras- [p. SS^.]
bourg and Wormes. So that all the other inferiour Pre-
fccts were aUogether subject to his becke. And of those
Prefects there were ten severall persons that resided in as 'J""'"*
many distinct places for the defence of the country. ^"^" ''
Whereof the chiefest was commorant at Strasbourg, as I
have before said, The second at a place called Sehz.
The third at Zabern in Alsatia where the Bishop of Stras-
bourg doth commonly keepe his residence. The fourth
at Altrip not farre from Spira. The fifth at Wissenburg.
The sixth at Wormes. The seventh at Blng. The eignt
at Boppard. The ninth at Confluence. The tenth and
last at Andernach. The authority of all these inferiour
Lieutenants was confined within those limits, that they
had not the powcr to attempt any matter of moment
without the leave of the Moguntine MarshallorLieutenant
whom they acknowledged for their Generall Captaine.
Also every one of them had a complet legion assigned
him for the defence of thc place, which how much it
containeth I have before menfioned in my notes of Lyons.
Two principall Marshals or Lieutenants of the Romans
that made their residence in this city I will brieHy mention,
because ihey were men of great eminency, and much
celcbrated by the ancient Roman historiographers. The
first was Flavius Vespasianus, the same that was afterward
Emperour, and the successor of Vitellius. Here he
resided in the time of the Emperour Claudius as I take it.
The second was Rufus Virginius, a man much mentioned
by Cornelius Tacitus. This Virginius is the same that
with Julius Vindex Captaine of the Roman legions in
France, and Sergius Galba (afterward Empcrour) of those
in S[>aJne made an insurrection against the Emperour Nero,
283
Ttec emi.
Rema»
rieuienitiilt. ,
CORYATS CRUDITIES
the newes whereof drove him to that pittifuU exi^eat that
he was faine to cut his owne throate. But how Tong this
City was swayed by a Roman Marshall after the time of
Julius Csesar, truly I do not certainly know, howbeit I
557*] conjecture that it was subject to the Romans as long as the
other Cities in the same banke of the Rhene, as Strasbourg,
Wormes, &c. even till the time of the Hunnicall King
Attila, which being then expugned by his hostile swor^
and consumed to dust and ashes by his incendiarie
souldiers, it was afterward most sumptuously reedified
by Dagobert King of France, remaining for the space of
many yeares under the dominion of the French Kings, till
at iast having shaken off the yoke of forraine Lords, it
was whoUy subject to their Archbishop, who is at this day
the soveraigne Prince and Lord of Mentz, which City doth
professe the same religion that he himselfe doth, wnich is
that of the Church of Rome.
Thus much of Mentz.
Was imbarked at Mentz the thirteenth of September
being Munday, about seven of the clocke in the mom-
ing, and passed downe the goodly river Mcenus, which at
Mentz doth min^le it selte with the Rhene tiU I came
to a towne withm foure miles of Frankford where I
arrived, and from thence performed the rest of my jowney
by land, and came to the Citie of Frankford which is
sixteene miles from Mentz, about five of the clocke in the
afternoone. But before I begin to write any thing of
Franckford, I wiU make some ftirther mention of the river
Mcenus, and of such things as I observed betwixt Mentz
lir Mainf, and Franckford. This Mcenus which heretofore was other-
wise caUed Mogonus, is a very faire navigable river, in
some piaces almost as broad as the Rhene at Mentz. It is
commonly esteemed the fourth river of Germany, and is
in the catalogue of the Germane rivers ranked next to the
Neccar that runneth by Heidelberg. It riseth in the
countrie of Voitlandia which confinetn upon Saxonie, even
a Uttle beyond the Citie of Bamberga, and so rowUng
a84
I
OBSERVATIONS OF MAYENCE
along with a great company of crooked windiiigs (not much [p- 558-]
unlike to the noble Asiaticke river Mceander so celebrated
by the ancient Poets for his often turnings) through the
territory of Franconia, and entertaining these three rivers
more, the Pegnetius at Norimberg, the Tuberus at Roten-
burg a Citie of the foresaid Franconia, and the Mimlingus
(all which doe issue out of the forrest Ottonica that I have
before named in my discourse of Heidelbcrg;) at iast it
joyneth with the Rhene, right opposite to the city of
Mentz as I have already said. I have rcad foure Greeke Meianctien'i
verses of Philip Melancthon with a translation of the same „'•"" „'-'
mto as many Latme, which he once made m a very con-
ceited and wittie veine upon the five letters of the name
of the river Mcenus, which according to a pretty kind of
hieroglyphicall manner he hath so finely contrived, that the
five letters (but as they are the elements of the Greekc
alphabet, not as Latine characters) doe expresse the full
number of the daies of the yeare. I have therefore
thought good to mention those verses in this place, since
this present discourse of the Ma^nus doth minister this
occasion unto me : because I thinke they will be very
acceptable to the learned reader. The learned reader I say,
but not to the unlearned. For indeed he must have both
learning and a good capacity that shall rightly conceive the
meaning of them. Truly the elegancy of them in my
poore judgement is such, that for mine owne part I will
boldly say thcy do expresse the most ingenious conceit
that ever I read in my life. In so much that the first timc
I saw them, I did even hugge them with a great applause.
Whatsoever thou art that dost applaud elegancies, judici-
ously reade these verses, and then I thinke thou wilt say
they arc worthy to be placed in the very front of thy
index of clegant conceits. Without any longer preambles
I present unto thee the verses themselvcs, even these.
^^teya tSiv SKKwv tw ipoi^av ^payxf Topelav
fiavOave, ovpavloui Kai 6eov tpya (hopm.
TTi eroyf otitiXoi/ eXicei Trtwa fi/iara inwrXof,
TW TroTrafi.ov ippaXei ToQvofia iiftaSeirov.
■>8s
CORYATS CRUDITIES
SMwg o/
tki cnceit.
SuMilry
traveUers,
[p. 560.]
The Latine translation is this.
Discite prsecipui solis motumque viasque,
Vos quibus est patrium Francica terra solum.
Namque dies totus quot traxerit ambitus anni,
Id fluvii vestri vox benfc nota sonat.
Now the whole pith and marrow of the conceit doth consist
in the resolving of the fivc letters of the word *Mcnus.
For if thou apply every letter of it as one of the Greeke
Alphabet unto those numerall figures that the same Greeke
letters do expresse, then thou shalt presently apprehend
the conceit, and must needs praise it for a passin^ witty
invention. Therefore thou must thus resolve the letters :
M
40
E
5
N
50
70
2
2CX>
The totall number doth make up the exact summe of all
the daies in the yeare, even
365-
Now I will returne againe to my liquid journey betwixt
Mentz and Franckford upon the river Mcenus. The
barke wherein I was carried contained a strange miscellany
of people of sundry nations at that time, whose languages
were (I thinke) a quarter as much confounded as theirs were
in ancient times at that famous conflision of Babel. For
in this barke there were some few of every principall nation
of Christendome travelling towards Frankford Mart that
began the day before. Amongst the rest, one of them
was borne in the country of Lithuania that adjoyneth to a
part of Poland, a passing sweet scholler, and a traveUer
that had lately lived in the University of Monachium
commonly called Mynichin in Bavaria, a man that yeelded
* Though the word be Moenus with oe dipthong ; yet here he
doth write it Menus, eliding the dipthong. For otherwise the con-
ceit will not hold«
a86
OBSERVATIONS OF FRANKFORT
sinfi^nlar delight unto xne by his variable discourse seasoned
wim much polite learning. On both sides of the Moenus
I observed a very fat soile, and two sumptuous palaces. Sumptmu
Whereof one that I saw on the right hand, situate alone /*^^''
by it selfe in a very spacious and pleasant meadow, was the
most Princely and royall building that I saw in Germany,
saving the Pfaltzgraves of Rhene in the citie of Heidel-
berg. For this was a seat well beseeming an Emperours
Court; and the situation so sweet and delectable that it
seemed to me to stand in a second garden of Eden. This
one place doth sufficiently confirme the truth of Kirchners
elegant agnomination in his Oration of the praise of
Germany, that the Mcene will yeeld as great amenity as
the Po of Italy, or any other forraine river. The name
of the place is Kelsterbach. Heretofore the Landgrave of Kilsterbiuk.
Hassia was Lord of it. But I understood that he hath sold
it within these few yeares to a certaine Germane Prince.
The other Palace stood in a certaine towne on the left
hand of the Moenus about foure miles on this side Franck-
ford, and belongeth to the Archbishop of Mentz; but
that is much interiour to this. A little on this side the
townes end of Franckford I observed a most rufuU ^ruifidstght
spectacle that strooke a certaine horrour into me, and so
I thinke did into the hearts of most other relenting
travellers that passed that way: the bodies of sixteene
men hanging upon a great stonie gallowes hard by the
high way side, supported with many great stony pillars.
My Obscrvations of Franckford. tP- 5^"]
Julius Caesar Scaliger hath written these verses upon
Franckford.
MUlta laboratis debet Franckfordia sulcis: ^oRgtt^s
Multa racemiferis vinea culta jugis. F^^lyT
Quid referam, quanta & quae convexere metalla? '^^•^
Que Mars bellipotens, quae petit alma Ceres?
Hiic Italus patriis miratur partibus orbem,
Advectxun htic stupuit Gallica magna suum.
287
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Hic Qriens, hic terra nobis comperta sub astris
Agnoscit Genii semina plena sui.
Nec tamen in brutis sola hsec commercia rebus:
Hic animi seternse sed cumulantur opes.
Quod si res paucas operosa est dicere merces :
Non magis est, cunctas res operosa dare?
This City is commonly called Franckfort am Mayn,
that is, Franckford situate by the river Mcenus. For they
give that addition to the name to the end to make a difFer-
ence betwixt this Citie, and another of the same name in
the dominion of the Marquesse of Brandenburg, situate
by the river Odera that is famous for her Universitie.
Terrimy and The Territory wherein it standeth is called Franconia aliks
ir^^l^Zf Francia Qrientalis, situate in the very medituUium or heart
ranjwrt, ^^ ^ Germany, at the farthest edge whereof Franckfbrd
standeth. The situation of it is pleasant. For it is seated
in a spacious pkine that veeldeth notable abundance, yea
a very Cornucopia of aU necessary commodities. The
Citie was first called Helenopolis from Queene Helena an
English woman bome, and the mother of Constantine the
Great. But in processe of time the denomination was
changed from Helenopolis to the present name Franco-
[p. 5^*-] furtum, which is derived from Francus the name of a
Prince who was the sonne of Marcomirus King of thc
country of Franconia, wherein (as I have ab-eady said)
Franckford standeth. It is distinguished by the rivcr
City dividid Moenus into two parts, the greater and the lesser. Thc
tnto two parts. j^gg^ jg called Saxenhauscn, that is, thc houses of thc
Saxons. Againe, these two are joined together by a vcry
faire bridge built all with stone, and supported with a
dozen goodly stony pillers each couple making a faire
arch. Though the city be divided into two parts, yet thc
government is all one, and they are governed by onc
Senate. The walles that do inviron the dtie, are built
with such admirable strength, beeing compacted all of
hard stone, and beautified with a great company of towers,
strong bulwarks, and faire gatehouses, that they yeekl a
288
OBSERVATIONS OF FRANKFORT
most singular grace to the city. Also the same walles are
indosed with deepe trenches and moates. The principall
Church of the city, which was built by Pipin King of
France (as Munster affirmeth) who dedicated it to the
honour of our Saviour, though it bee now called Saint
Bartholmewes Church, doth present a good!y shew a farre
off. Yet the inward matter of the Church is but ordinarie,
and differeth but little from other colledge Churches of
Germany,
There are two things which make this citie famous over ^lf^Aonof the
all Europe. The one the election of the King of the l^^^l"'^'^'
Romanes, the other the two noble feyres kept heere twise
a yeare, which are called the Martes of Franckford, As
for the election, Charles the fourth Emperour of that
name established a decree for the perpetuall choosing of the
King of the Romanes in this citie about the yeare 1350«
which he confirmed with his golden seale of armes. Before
which time the place of the election was uncertaine. For
it was sometimes at Mentz, sometimes at Hagenaw, some-
times also at Franckford, and elsewhere, according to the
discretion of the Elector Princes. By the King of the
Romanes I meane him that either in the life of the [p. 563.] '
Emperour which is in possession of the Empire, or shortly
after his death, Is chosen for his successor by the Elector
Princes ; which title the chosen Prince doth retaine till
he be afterward confirmed and crowned by the Pope.
And after his coronation that title being abolished, he is
stiled Emperour Augustus. The first institution of this
custome is attributed to Otho the third German Emperour
of that name, who being in the city of Rome about the
yeare of our Lord looo. after he had punished those two
famous rebels, Pope John the eighteenth, and Crescentius
ConsuII of the City, ordained it for a perpetuali decree by
rhe consent of Pope Gregory the fifth, that hee which
should be successour in the Empire, should be intituled
King of the Romanes untill by his coronation hee were
throughly inaugurated into the Empire.
The first that was chosen King of the Romanes was
c. c 11 aSg
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Hinry II , tke
first Rman
En^eror
ckosen at
Frankfirt,
[p. 5^4.]
Tkifairs of
Frankfirt,
GoUsmithi
work.
Hemy the second surnamed Sanctus. This constitution
of Charles the fourth hath remained inviolable ever since
his time for the space of two hundred and fifty yeares.
For there was never King of the Romanes chosen in any
place since his death but oneiy in Franckford. Munster
maketh mention of a certaine custome observed in this
City^ as a lawe at the time of the Electors dissention
about the election of the King of the Romanes;
which is this: when the Elector jPrinces cannot s^gree,
one of the competitors that are named Kin^ or the
Romanes, is to lie in armes neere the dty of Franck-
ford with an army of men for the space of halfe a
moneth) to the end to skirmish with his competi-
tor ; and if he getteth the victory in battel, or by other
peaceable meanes doth grow to a composition with his
adversarie, then hee is admitted within the gates of the
citie, and saluted King of the Romanes, not else. Experi-
ence of this hath bene made betwixt Henry Landgrave of
Thuringia and Conrade the sonne of Frederick the second.
And also betwixt Ludovicus the Bavarian, and Frederick
of Austria. As for the Fayre it is esteemed, and so indeed
is the richest meeting of any pkce of Christendome, which
continueth 14 daies together, and is kept in the moneth
of March for the Spring, and in September for thc
Autumne. This Autumnall Mart it was my chance to
see, Where I met my thrise-honourable countryman thc
Earle of Essex, after he had travelled in divers places of
France, Switzerland, and some parts of high Gennany.
The riches I observed at this Mart were most infinite,
especially in one place called llnder Den Roemer, where
the Goldsmithes kept their shoppes, which made the most
glorious shew that ever I saw in my life, especially somc
of the Citie of Norimberg. This place is divided into
divers other roomes that have a great many partitions
assigned unto Mercers and such like artificers, for thc
exposing of their wares. The wealth that I sawe herc
was incredible, so great that it was unpossible for a man
to conceive it in his minde that hath not first seene it with
290
I
■ M
i
OBSERVATIONS OF FRANKFORT
his bodily eies. The goodHest shew of ware that I sawe ^^ g^^^
in all Franckford saving that of the Goidsmithes, was made 'p.? '
by an Englishman one Thomas Sackrield a Dorsetshire-
man, once a servant of my tather, who went out of England
but in a meane estate, but after he had spent a few yeares
at the Duke of Brunswicks Court, hee so inriched himselfe
of late, that his glittering shewe of ware in Franckford did
farre excell all the Dutchmen, French, Italians, or whora-
soever else. This place is much frequented during the
whole time of the Mart with many eminent and princely
persons. There I saw the Earle of Sconenberg one of the
most potent Earles of all Germany, For his yearly
revenues are (as I heard) about forty ihousand pound
sterling. AIso I sawe many other Earles and some Pfeltz- ^""3
graves : the number of whome is much multiplied (I "'^^"""'
understand) in Germany. The reason whereof is because
if any Landgrave, Pfaltzgrave, or Earle, hath any sonnes, [p. sfiS-):,
all of them more or lesse do share in dignity. For all the
Landgraves sons if he hath ten or twenty, are Landgraves
as well as himselfe. The like doth happen to the Pfaltz-
graves, Earles &c. But although their dignity be equall,
yet their estates are very unequall, For it falleth out very
often that the eldest brother hath almost al, and many
of the younger brothers but small meanes of maintenance.
After this I went to the Bookesellers streete where I ^"-fWf/'^
saw such infinite abundance of bookes, that I greatly
admlred it. For this street farre excelleth Paules Church-
yard in London, Saint James streete in Paris, the Merceria
of Venice, and all whatsoever else that I sawe in my travels.
In so much that it seemeth to be a very epitome of all the
principall Libraries of Europe. Ncither is that streete
femous for selling bookes onely, and that of all manner of
artes and disciplines whatsoever, but also for printing of \
them. For this city hath so flourished within these fewe ■
yeares in the arf of printing, that it is not inferiour in
that respect to any city in Christendome, no not to Basil
it selfe which I have before so much commended for the
excellency of that art. Likewlse I visited divers Cloysters
I
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
full of wares and notable commodities, especially the
Cloyster of Saint Bartholmewes Church ; where amongst
other things I saw a world of excellent pictures, inventions
of singular cwiosity, whereof most were religious, and
such as tended to mortification. Moreover I saw their
^^ Exchange neere to the place before mentioned cailed Under
Exchauff, Den Roemer. This is nothing like to ours in London,
the Rialto of Venice, or that which I saw afterward at
Middleborough in Z^and. For it is nothing but a part
of the streete, xmder the open ayre. Here I observed a
frequent concurse of wealthy Merchants from ail the
famousest regions of Christendome. I noted a thing in
this fayre that I never did before in any place. £very
[p. 566.] man selleth his ware in his owne house, except forreners
and those that hire shoppes in the Burse. So that there
d strange is no common place either in the streetes or in any open
enstm. j^j ^j. ggjj ^^ j observed at the Fayre of Bergomo in
Italie and in all other places) but only within the conipasse
of their owne private houses. Which maketh the Fayrc
seeme but little, though indeed it be very great. I have
read that this City was once deprived of their Fayre by
the Emperour Charles the fourth, about some two hundred
and fifty yeares since, who for a certaine grudge that hc
bare to the Franckfordians by reason that they entertayned
his adversary Gunterus Earle of Schwartzenburg within
the City, and proclaimed him King of the Romanes, tooke
away the Fayre from Franckford, and removed it to
Mentz; but being afterward reconciled to the City, hc
restored it againe to them.
I observed no monuments of any note in this City.
Though in St. Bartholmewes Church fas a learned man told
me after I was gone from Franckford) I might have seene
the monument of the foresaid Earle Gunterus, who was
competitor with the said Charles the fourth for the Empire,
and afterward King of the Romans. For he died in this
City being poysoned by a physition, after he had reigned
sixe moneths, and was finaQy buried in the said Church.
Here also died Ludovicus surnamed Germanicus for that
292
OBSERVATIONS OF FRANKFORT
he was KJng of Germanie, the third sonne of the Emperour
Ludovicus Pius by his first wife Irmengardis, in the yeare
of his age threescore and ten, of the Lord 876. But he
was not buried here. For his body was afterward carryed
by his sonne Ludovicus the third to a pkce in the territorie
of the Wormacians called Laureacum. I went to the
Monasterie of the Dominican Friers because I heard that UntKtaib J
there were certaine monuments and cunous rarities to be Jrian.
seene amongst them, but they were so unsociable and pre-
cise, that they would not affoord accesse to any strangers
at the time of the Mart.
The reJigion of this City is both Protestant and Papisti- [p. 567.]
call; the Protestants prcfesse Luthers doctrine. The
principall Church which is dedicated to St. Barthelmew
belongeth to the Papists, most of the other to the Pro-
testants, saving the Churches of Monasteries.
I reccived a speciall kindnesse in this City of an English Mr. TAomm
Gentleman, with the commemoration of whose name I ■*'«'-
wiil finish my Observations of Franckford, even Mr.
Thomas Row the eldest sonne of Sir Henry Row, that
was Lord Maior of London about two yeares since. Truly
this Gentleman did me such a singular courtesie there,
that he hath perpetually obliged me unto him all the dayes
of my life.
Thus much of Franckford.
HAving spent two whole daies in Franckford, Wed-
nesday and Thursday, I departed therehence the
sixteenth day of September being Friday, about ten of the
clocke in the morning, and travelled by land to Mentz
whither 1 came by sixe of the docke in the afternoone.
This journey was sixteene miles. I remained that night
in Mentz. And whereas I meant to have gone the next
morning to Ingelheim Court sixteene miles from Mentz I«ge!ieii
to have seene the place where the Emperour Charles the ^*'"''-
Great was borne, and that magnificent Palace which he
built there, whercin he sometimes kept his Imperiall Court,
and whtch is yet shewed to this day ; certayne Gentlemen
CORYATS CRUDITIES
of Colen craved my company in a boate downe the Rhene
towards Colen. Whereupon I committed my selfe to the
water the same morning being Saturday and the seven-
teenth of September, about eight of the clocke, and aune
to the City of Boppard, which is thirty miles beyond it,
about eight of the aocke in the evening.
[p. 568.] My Observations betwixt Mentz and Boppard.
SHortly after I had passed beyond Mentz, when I
beganne to observe divers strong Townes and Castles
situate hard by the Rhene, and more upon the left banke
in that part of Germanie, which was in the time of the
Roman Empire reckoned a member of Gallia, then upon
Aserwu the opposite shore; I entred into a serious kinde of
fxammatm, examination of my selfe, how it came to passe that one
banke of the Rhene was exceedingly planted with townes
and fortresses, and the other very slenderly. And to the
end I might be the better resolved in the matter, I asked
a learned Gentleman in my boate that was a Senator of
Colen, what was the reason that the left banke of the
Rhene was more frequently inhabited then the other.
Who answered me in that manner as gave me no fiill
satisfaction. At last, after I had ruminated long upon the
matter, I called to my remembrance the warres that Julius
Caesar waged with the ancient Germans, and did quickly
satisfie my owne selfe without any further inquisition.
For I conjectured that many of these Townes and Castels
were built by the Romans, at what time they fortified that
tract of the Rhene with presidiarie souldiers for the better
defence of their Provinces against the violent excursions
of the Germans, that bordered neare unto them upon the
adverse banke. Neither was my conjecture vaine. For
this is most true, and confirmed by the irrefragable
authority of many ancient and authenticke historio-
CTaphers, that many of these places were built by the
^L ^i^' Romans themselves, shortly after Caesar had conquered
hank ofthi tjallia. 1 his is the reason that there are so many magni-
JUdm. ficent and ancient Cities on the left banke of that long
294
OBSERVATIONS OF BINGEN
tract betwixt Basil and Colen. Namely Strasbourg, Spira,
Wormes, Mentz, Bing, Boppard, Confluence, and Bonna.
But on the other side I saw no City or Towne of any [p. 569,]
note, but only Brisac a little from Basil, and yet that was
but a meane thing in comparison of some of these. The
like whereof I have heard is to be observed in one of the
bankes of the Danubius betwixt the place of the rising
thereof and Hungarie, In which banke there are many
stately Cities built, as Patavia, Ratisbona, and divers
others. But on the opposite banke there are no ancient
Cities or Citadels to be seene. The reason Js, because the
Romans durst not raise any on that side for feare of the
sudden invasion of the Germans that dwelt neare at hand.
I observed many custome Townes betwixt Mentz and Ciuiomttncni.
Colen, which are in number eleven. They belong to
divers Princes Spirituall and Temporall, who receive a
great yearlie revenue by them. All passengers whatsoever
they are, noble or ignoble, must arrive in each of these
places, and stay a whne till the boatemen hath paid custome
for his passage. To the passenger it is no charge at all,
but only to the master of the boate. If any should dare
in a resolute and wilfull humour to passe by any of these
places, and not pay the stinted summe of money, the
Publicans that sit at the receipt of custome, will presently
discharge (as I heard) a peecc of Ordinance at them, and
make them an example to all after-commers. Richard one
of our English Kings did once very graciously abolish all J
these tolles and taxations by water, to the great benefit
of the Germans and at other passengers, when he kept his
Court in the City of Wormcs, after he was elected King
of the Romans by the Elector Princes, as I have before
mentioned in my Observations of that City. Which thing
purchased him the great iove and good wili of the people ^
for that little time that he lived in Germanie.
The first of these townes where we arrived was Bing, Bmgen.
a piace of great antiquitie, in Latine Bingium, that
belongeth to the Archbishop of Mentz, and professeth the
Popi^ religion. At this towne thcre is a river called Naha [p. S70.] '
CORYATS CRUDITIBS
that infuseth it selfe into the Rhene, where they botfa do
make a confluent. This is one of the garrison townes
that I have before mentioned» that were subject to die
Marshall of Mentz, where there lay a company of nt-
sidiarie souldiers with a Roman Prefect, by the appoiiit-
ment of Jxilius Caesar, for the defence of that limit againit
the Germanes. There are three things that have much
famoused this towne. The first the death of Drusus Nero^
whom I have before mentioned. The second the Nunne
Hildegardis that once lived there. The third a towcr
standing in the Rhene, whereof anon I wil write a notable
Diotkof historie. About the death of Drusus the historians do
Dnmu Niro. jj^^^ differ. For some report that he was slaine by thc
Germanes, sitting upon his horse. Others, that he penshed
by a fall from his horse. Which of these histories is
truest both of the place and manner of his death, seeing
I finde difference amongst the historiographers, I wili not
certainly affirme, but leave it to the judgement of the
leamed that are more expert in the Romane histories then
my selfe. But surely for mine owne parte I am drawen
by certain conjectures to beleeve that he died at this
towne. Amongst other reasons this is one : because thert
is a certaine fountaine shewed to this day neare to this
towne (as Munster writeth) that is called Druselbrun, that
is, the fountaine of Drusus, as having his denomination
from the foresaid Drusus that died here. As for the
S. Hildigard. Nunne Hildegardis, she lived here about the yeare of our
Lord I i8o, as Gesner writeth, and was of the order of St
Bennet, even in the time of St. Bernard Abbot of Clara-
vallis; betwixt whom there was great friendship, as it
appeareth by their mutuall Epistles that they wrote to
each other, which are yet extant in the works of St
Bernard. Truly there are very admirable matters written
of this woman by the historians. For it is reported that
she was often rapt in the middest of her sleepe with
[p. $71.] certaine enthusiasmes, that is, divine inspirations, whereby
she leamed the I^atine tongue after a most miraculous
manner without any teacher. A thing that will seeme
296
OBSERVATIONS OF BINGEN
unto many readers a meere paradoxe, but certainly for my
owne part I beleeve it to be true, For I receive it frora
the authority of a very grave writer Sebastian Munster.
Besides she was esteemed a great prophetesse in that age.
And she wrote many treatises both in prose and verse : as
the hfe of St. Rupertus the Confessor ; the life of St.
Disibodus Bishop : 135 severall Epistles, besides many
other things that are mentioncd by Gesner in the catalogue
of her works. But the third thing that is reported of this
towne is a thing passing memorable and very worthy thc
observation. Such a wondrous and rare accident as I never
read or heard of the like before, Therefore I will relate
it in this place out of Munster for one of the most notable
examples of Gods justice that ever was extant in the whole
world since the first creation thereof. It hapned in the
yeare 914 that there was an exceeding femine in Germany,
at what time Otho surnamed fhe Great was Emperor, and
one Hatto once Abbot of Fulda was Archbishop of Mentz, ■^rcUiiitf I
of the Bishops after Crescens or Crescentius the two and """'■
thirtieth, of the Archbishops after St. Bonifacius the thir-
teenth. This Hatto in the time of this great famine
befbre mentioned, when he saw the poore people of the
country exceedingly oppressed with ramine, assembled a
great company or them together into a barne, and hke a
most accursed & mercilesse caitifFe burnt up those poore
innocent soules, that were so farre from doubting any such
matter, that they rather hoped to have received some
comfort and reliefe at his hands. The reason that moved
the Prelate to commit that execrable impiety, was because
he thought that the famine would the sooner cease, if
those unprofitabie beggars that consumed more bread then
they were worthy to eate, were dispatched out of the
world. For he said that these poore foikes were like to [p. 571.]
mice, that were good for nothing but to devoure corne.
But Aimighty God the just revenger of the poore folks
quarrel did not iong suffer this hainous tyranny, this most
detestabie fact unpunished. For he mustred up an army
of mice against the Archbishop, and sent them to persecute
297
CORYATS CRUDITIBS
His MsserM him as his furious AlastorS) so that they afflicted him boch
^- day and night, and would not suffer him to take his rest
in any place. Whereupon the Prelate thinking that he
should be secure firom the injury of mice if he were in a
certaine tower that standeth in the Rhene neere to the
towne, betooke himself unto the said tower as to a safe
refuge and sanctuary from his enemies, and locked him-
selfe in. But the innumerable troupes of mice continuallj
chaced him very eagerly, and swunune unto him upon tbc
top of the water to execute the just judgement of God, and
so at last he was most miserably devoured by those silly
creatures ; who pursued him with such bitter hostility, thit
it is recorded they scraped & gnawed off his very name
from the waUes and tapestry wherein it was written, after
they had so cruelly devouied his bodie. Wherefore the
tower in which he was eaten up by the mice is shewed to
this day for a perpetuall monument to al succeeding ages
of the barbarous and inhumane tyranny of that impious
prelate, being situate in a litde greene Iland in the middest
of the Rhene neere to this towne of Bing, and is conunonly
called in the Germane tongue the Mowse tum.
After I was a litde past Bing, even about the west end
of the towne, I observed that upon the sides of the
Rhene, which I did not perceive before in any other part
of Germany. For both sides of the river were indosed
with steepe rocky mountaines that ranne on a great way
A msslAtuii of in length as farre as the towne of Bonna, which is a littk
castks oHtki on this side Colen, even for the space of fiftie miles at thc
^' least, upon the tops of which mountaines I saw an exceed-
ing[ multitude or Towers, Castels, and Citadels on both
[p. 573.] sides, which belong unto those Princes in whose territories
they stand, being built for the better fortification of those
frontier parts of their Princedomes. Some of them seeme
to be of that antiquitie that I am perswaded they were
built by the ancient Romans, especially those of that shore
which was heretofore esteemed a part of Gailia. Aiso I
perceived that these mountaines doe hemme in the Rhene
in a farre straighter compasse, then before I came thither,
298
OBSERVATIONS OF BACHARACH
even almost by halfe. For it is in divers places so narrow
betwixt the rocks that a man may easily cast over a stone
from one banke to the other, as a certaine Germane told
me that passed in the same boate with me. But afterward
when I came to Bonna, I observed that those hils did
desinere in planiciem, which plaine did continue from
thenceforth till I came to the farthest bound of my journey
upon the Rhene in the Netherlands. None of these rocks
could I perceive in that whole tract betwix Basil and
Strasbourg, saving one upon the which the towne of
Brisac is situate on the right hand of the Rhene ; but a
pleasant plaine on both sides which I heard extended it
selfe as ferre as Mentz, and from Mentz hkewise the plaine
continueth even to the towns end of Bing, and then
(as I have said) beginne those steepe rockie mountaines,
Thcre is a very strange custome observed amongst the Ahardea^
Germanes as they passe in their boates betwixt Mentz and
Colen, and so likewise betwixt Colen and the lower parts
of the Netherlands, Every man whatsoever he be poore
or rich, shall labour hard when it commeth to his turne,
except he doth either by friendship or some small summe
of money redeeme his labour. For their custome is that
the passengers must exercise themselves with oares and
rowing alternis vicibus, a couple together. So that the
master of the boate (who me thinks in honestie ought either
to doe it himselfe, or to procure some others to do it for
him) never roweth but when his turne commeth. This [p, 574.]
exercise both for recreation and health sake I confesse is
very convenient for man. But to be tied unto it by way ■
of a strict necessity when one payeth well for his passage, I
was a thing that did not a little distaste my humour. I
The next custome Towne that we arrived at is called I
Bacchara, which is in the dominion of the Pfeltzgrave of |
Rhene, and situate on the same left banke of the Rhene ; ■
a place as femous in Germanie for her generose wines Wines af
growen upon the hill of Furstenberg neare unto it, as the ^«"unberi
valley Tellina is in the Grisons country, Falernus in Cam-
pania, or Chios in Greece. It seemeth by the name to
I
i
CORYATS CRUDITIES
be a towne of great antiquity, and to have beene built in
the time of Gentilisme. For some make the etymologie
of the name to be quasi Bacchi ara, the Altar of Bacchus.
Because that drunken God Bacchus had Altars erected unto
him in this place in time of the Pagan idolatrie. Othen
derive it from Bacchus only^ which by a Rhetorical figure
called metonymia doth signifie wine. The reason of thit
derivation is because this towne doth yeeld most excellent
wine as I have ah^eady said. The religion of the towne is
Protestant.
W. The third telonium is called Cuve which belongeth to
the Pfaltzgrave also. This Towne is situate on the
opposite banke, and is very memorable for one thine,
which is a certaine Castell (whereof I have befbre ma£
mention in my Observations of Heidelbere;) situate in
the middle of the Rhene called Pfaltz, which signifieth
a Pakce, wherehence commeth the word Pfaltzgrave
(otherwise commonly called Palsgrave) one of the most
eminent and Princely titles of the Count Palatine of
Rhene. This towne professeth the Protestant religion
also.
beririsii. A little beyond Cuve we passed by the elegant little
City of higher Wesel, in Latin Wesalia superior, but
commonly called Ober Wesel for distinction sake betwixt
that and the lower Wesel in Cleveland. This towne is
». 575.] situate on the left banke of the Rhene, and belongeth to
the Archbishop of Trevirs the third spiritual Elector of
the Empire, who hath had the dominion of Wesel these
many yeares, even since the time of Henry the seventh
Emperour of that name, by whom it was morgaged to the
Archbishopricke of Trevirs, for a certaine summe of
money, and never since redeemed. It is strongly walled
and beautified with many faire Towers built on the walles.
The religion of it is Popish. Much is this towne spoken
cHId off for tne martyrdome of a yong child in the same called
trtyr. Wernerus, of the age of seven yeares, in the yeare 1287.
For it is written that the same Wernerus was in the same
yeare upon the thirteenth day of May most cruelly
300
OBSERVATIONS OF OBER WESEL
marfyrcd by the barbarous Jewes, in this manner : They
tied him to a certaine wooden pillar in a low vault under
thc ground, and whipped him so bitterly, that the pjoore
innocent child died with it. After they had thus handled
him they conveighed away his corps, and buried it under
a certaine hedge where brambles and thornes grew, but
being afterward casually found out by some of the townes-
folke of Wesel, it was therehence translated to a place
called Bavaricum, where they built a church to almighty
God in memory of that punie Martyr, & it is called by
the name of Wernerus Church at this day. As for the
wooden piUar whereunto they tyed him when they
scourged him to death, it was afterward removed to an
hospitall Church of Wesel neare to the Rhene, where they
erected it at the toppe of the high Altar, and is there
shewed to this day for a monument of that Jewish cruelty.
In this towne was borne that famous Divine *Joannes de
Wasalia, mentioned by Matthias Illyricus in his tract
intitled Catalogus testium Veritatis, qui ante Lutheri tem-
pora Antichristo reclamarunt. For this Joannes in the
middest of the darknesse of Poperie gave a Iittle glimpse
of light in Christs Church, though it was greatly obscured
and suppressed by the iniquity of the times wherein he
lived.
When we were passed Wesel we came to another [p. 576.]
custome Towne situate on the same banke of the Rhene,
which was the fourth. The name of it is St. Gewere, a Si. Gear.
Protestant towne, and it standeth in that territory whose ,
inhabitants were in former times called +Catti, a very
warlike people much mentioned by Cornelius Tacitus and
other writers of the Roman histories ; but now it hath
fhe name of Hassia, which is a Landgraviat subject to the
* But I will not conCdenily afiirme tha[ hee w» barne in thls
towne. But eiiher in ihia or the Lower Wesel in Cleve-land I
know he was borne.
t Prom this word commeth Cattinelnbogen the ancient name of
a Towne in Hassia wherhence chc Landgrave deriveth one of hii
Princelj' titlet.
CORYAT'S CRUDITIBS
f eataract
\i Rltine.
OM
>• 577.]
^ mrry
Mtmfir
rangtrs at
\ G^r.
renowned Prince Maurice the present Landgrave of the
Country. To him doth this custome towne belong. It
hath the denomination of St. Gewere from a certaine hdj
man called Goarus (for the Latin name of the towne is
Sanctus Goarus) that came hither out of Aquitanie in the
time of the Emperour Mauricius, and livea in this piace
a holy and religious life.
Here I observed a verjr violent source of the tonent
of the Rhene, which conuneth to passe by meanes of a
swift cataract, that is, a fall of water from some iineven
part of the streame. Also I heard that there is a deep
gulfe, rapidus vortex in this place, which wit^ a most
mcessant greedines swalloweth down the water hj meanes
of the manifold anfracts and intricate windings thereof,
which continuall drinking up of the water is said to be
the naturall cause of the great violence of the streame that
appeareth more there then in other places. It is often
oDserved that this place in the time of a raging tempest
is so dangerous that no boates dare passe that way, or if
any should by force of the storme be driven in against their
willes, the passengers doe very hardly escape with their
lives. This foresaid towne of St. Gewere doth not want
the meanes to make it something memorable as well as
the rest of the Rhenish townes, though in quantity it bc
inferiour unto all those that I have aJready named. For
there is one thing in it that doth make it much spoken off,
whereof I will report a merry and short historie. A littlc
within the towne gate there hangeth an yron collar iastened
in the wall with one linke, which is made fit to be put upon
a mans neck without any manner of hurt to the party that
weareth it, and they use first to conveigh it over the head,
and so to the necke. This collar doth every stranger and
freshman the first time that he passeth that way (according
to an ancient custome observed amongst them) put upon
his necke (at the least as the Gentlemen told me that went
in my boate) which hee must weare so long standing till
he hath redeemed himselfe with a competent measure of
And at the drinking of it there is as much jovialty
302
wme.
OBSERVATIONS OF ST. GOAR
and merriment as heart can conceive for the incorporating
of a fresh novice into the fraternity of boone companions.
And from thenceforth he is free from all such manner of
exactions as long as he liveth. That this is true I know
by mine owne experience. For I was contented for
novelty sakc to be their prisoner a litle while by wearing
of the foresaid collar. This custome doth carry some
kinde of affinity with certaine sociable ceremonies that wee
have in a pkce of England which are performed by that
most reverend I.ord Ball of Bagshot in Hamptshire, who
doth with many and indeed more solemne rites invest his
Brothers of his unhallowed Chappell of Basingstone (as
all our men of the westerne parts of England do know by
deare experience to the smart of their purses) then these
merry Burgomaisters of Saint Gewere use to doe. In this
towne was I like to separate my selfe from my Moguntine
company. For as soone as I heard that the towne did 5r. Goar
belong to the Landgrave of Hassia, the very name of that *'^ " '^,
worthy Prince (whome for his admirable wisedome they fff,,^
do not undeservedly stile with the title of the Solomon
of Germany) did strike into mee such a longing desire
to see his Court at Cassel, that I was with great difficulty
withdrawne by the perswasions of my company from goir
thither. For he is a Prince of such rare and miraculous
gifts of learning (the same whereof when I was in Germany [p. 578.]
did doctorum volifare per ora virorum, and exceedingly
resounded farre and neare in the eares of all learned men)
that next to my dread Soveraigne King, and his gracious
son Prince Henry, the most unparalleled father and sonne
of all the Christian world, 1 do most honour and reverence
the memory of this learned and religious Prince. For his
religion together with the same that is generally professed
over his whole dominion, is altogether consonant to ours
in England. And his learning is so rare (beeing confirmed ^ /"'W ]
by the testimonies of thousands of the learneder sort) '
that he speaketh sixe or seven languages most elegantly,
& his affection to Englishmen is so great, that no stranger
of any part of Christendomc can bee more welcome to him
303
CORYATS CRUDITIES
then an Englishman. Although I say I was strooken with
such a longing desire to see the Coiut of this most fanoous
Prince (whome I have here obit^ glaunced at with this
exorbitant digression from my mame matter upon the
occasion of arriving in a towne of his dominion) yet the
opportunity of my German assodats recalled me, and so
arter much Mercuriall and Joviall conversation in this
Towne of Saint Gewere, we retumed againe to our boate,
and proceeded fbrward in our joumey. A little bevond
the west end of this town I observed a very beautiful and
stately Castel, the fayrest of all that I sawe that day, situate
upon a lofty hill which belongeth to the fbresayd Land-
grave also as well as the towne. At length about eight
^offard. of the clocke at night we arrived at the towne of Boppard,
as I have before said, and there reposed our selves tili the
next mominj;. This city of Boppard is situate upon the
left banke of the Rhene, and was our fifth custome towne.
This city is very ancient, fbr it was built in the time of
Julius Cesar, or (as I thinke) before. But this is certainly
tme, that it was in that time extant. For here lay an
P- 579-] other Roman Prefect with a garrison of souldiers, one of
the tenne subject to the Moguntine Marshall, as I have
before said. The name of it in those daies was Bodobigra.
As for this present name of Boppard, in Latin Boppaidia,
some write that it is so called quasi Bonport, which word
signifieth a good or commodious haven Towne. I have
read that it was once oppugned, and after the siege of a
^^fpard few daies taken by Richard one of our English Kings,
^^R' jL d because it made resistance against him when he came into
^England. Germanic after he was elected King of the Romanes. For
in those daies it was an imperiall Citie, in regard whereof
King Richard challenged it, & so it remained till the time
of Henry the seventh, who morgaged it to the Archbishop
of Trevirs for a summe of money, at the same time that
he did upper Wesel. Ever since which time it hath bene
subject to the dominion of the Archbishop of Trevirs, and
professeth the same religion that he doth, which is that
of the Church of Rome. I am sorry that I can speake no
304
OBSERVATIONS OF BOPPARD
more of this city, as of the monuments and antiquities
thereof (for some I heard are there fo be seene) which it
was not possibie for me to survay, because I came there
late in the evening, and departed early the next day beeing
Sunday and the eighteenth of September, about sixe of
the clocke in the morning. The next Telonium that wee
came unto was Lanstein the seventh in number, which is Lahniiein.
in the dominion of the Archbishop of Mentz, and of the
Popish reiigion. This standeth m the left banke of the
Rhene also. From thence we came to the Citie of Con-
fluentia commoniy called Cobolentz, on the left hand of
the Rhene, which beiongeth to the Archbishop of Trevirs ;
and hath her denomination from the Latin word confluere,
which signifieth to runne together, because in that place
there is a confluent of two noble rivers, the Rhene and the
Mosella. The later of them is cailed Obrinca by Ptoie- RiverMaitl
mseus Aiexandrinus. It riseth out of the country of
Lingones in France, commonly called Langres, and runneth [p. s8o.]
by the Cities of Mentz and Trevirs, and washeth a great
part of the Country that was heretofore called Austrasia,
but now Lotharingia, from fhe Emperour Lotharius the
first, who changed the name thereof, commoniy Lorraine.
I observed a fayre wooden bridge over this river at Con-
fluence supported with thirteene arches. This City is not Cobltnzan
inferiour in antiquity to any other of these Rhenish Cities ^"'""'"^-
or townes that I have named since I came from Mentz.
For it flourished in the daies of Juiius CECsar, in whose
time it was pianted with a garrison of soidiers in the
behaife of the Romanes, and governed by one of the
foresaid tenne Roman Prefects that were subject to the
high Marshail of Mentz. I observed that this city is
invironed with strong walles, feyriy adorned with pretty
little Turrets, thaf do yeeld a very deiicate shew. In this
City was holden an Imperial Diet about the yeare of our
Lord 1 137. where most of the greatest Princes of Germany
were assembled to choose Conrade the third that was Duke
of Suevia, Empcrour. The religion of it is Papisticall.
AIso ihere was shewed mee a very feire Monastery upon
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Castkof
Haummtein,
[p. 581.]
AndemacL
Tm great
hattks.
a hill neere the City, which is inhabited by a convent of
Carthusian Monkes. Likewise on the other side of the
river right opposite to the City, I saw a very strong and
impregnable Castell called Hermenstein, situate upon a
very eminent rocke. It belongeth to the Archbishop of
Trevirs also, and is esteemed the strongest and greatest
Castell of all Germany bevond all comparison. I heard
that it is exceeding plentimlly furnished with all manner
of warlike munition, and continually kept by two hundred
presidiary souldiers, which do most vigikntly gard it night
and day, and are so carefuU of it, that they wul not give a
stranger leave to come within it, though hee would give a
g^t svunme of money to see it. The eighth custome
Towne is called Engers, which is subject to tne Archbishm
of Trevirs. The ninth Andernach situate upon the len
side of the Rhene, a very ancient towne in the Diocesse
of the Archbishop of Colen. For here resided another
of the Roman Prefects in the time of Julius Cesar, and
was the place where the last of the tenne garrisons hj
that were subject to the authority of the Moguntine Mar-
shall. It was in former times called Antennacum. For
so doth Ammianus Marcellinus that ancient Historio-
grapher call it. For many hundred yeares agoe it suffered
great dilapidations. But in the yeare 11 20. it was very
rairely re-edified by a certaine Archbishop of Colen who
bestowed very great cost upon it. For besides the inward
ornaments of the towne hee beautified it with stroner walles,
& built many fayre Towers in them, which do greafly grace
the towne. An ornament that I much observed in these
Rhenish Cities and townes betwixt Mentz and Colen.
In this towne was that worthy man Joannes Guinterius
borne, once publike professour of the Greeke tongue b
the University of Strasbourgr, as I have before mentioned
in my discourse of that Clty. Neere this towne were
fought two very great battels in the moneth of October
anno 876, betwixt the Emperour Charles the second sur-
named the Bald, and Lewes the second sonne of the elder
brother, surnamed Germanicus, in which battel his Nephew
306
OBSERVATIONS OF ANDERNACH
won the honour of the field to his great glory, and did
put the Emperour his Uncle to flight. The second was
betwixt that victorious German Emperour Otho surnamed
the Great, and Ebarhardus Duke of Franconia, whereln the
Duke was slaine ; and Gislebertus Duke of Lorraine, who
married the Lady Gerbirga the Emperours eldest sister,
and was confedcrated with the said Eberhardus, was
drowned in the river Rhene but a little from the place
where the battell was fought. Here the Emperour partly
slue and partly tooke prisoners all those Earles and great
Lordes that held with his enemies. This hapned about
the yeare of our Lord 950. The tenth is called Lintz, fp. 581.]
situate on the right banke of fhe Rhene, and in the
Diocesse of the Archbishop of Colen, whose religion it Lint.
professeth. This towne is femous for the residence of the
femperour Frederick the third, who did sometimes keepc
his imperiall Court here, and at last died in this towne of
a surfet by eating too many mellons, upon the nineteenth
day of August in the yeare of our Lord 1493, and of his
age seventy eight, after hee had swayed the Empire fifty
tnree yeares, 4 moneths, & 4 daies. He lived 3 yeares
longer then Augustus Cfesar, & reigned 3 yeares lesse.
But his body doth not he here ; for it was translated from
this place where it lay for the space of 20 yeares, to Vienna
in Austria, in the yeare 13 15, and the seventh day of
November, where his bones have bene kept ever since in
a most magnificent Mausoleum. From Lintz we went to
an obscure towne in the Diocesse of Colen, called Uber- Ohennini^
winter that standeth in the left banke of the Rhene, and
came thither about sixe of the clocke in the evening,
where wee remained all that night. This daies journey
betwixt the Citie of Boppard and Uberwinter contained
some thirty miles. In this place we solaced our selves after
our tedious iabour of rowing as merily as we could. One
merry conceit amongst the rest that I heard in thts good -^ ""J^
company I will here relate. One of my Moguntine "■""■'"■
associats that was a merry Gentleman, and one tnat had
lately bene a student in the Llniversitie of Altorph neere
CORYATS CRUDITIES
the City of Norimberg, told me as we sate together at
supper, that a certain Bishop had two kind of wines in
his cellar, a better and a worse, that were called by two
distinct names, the better Noli me tangere, the worse
Utcimque. And that a certaine merry conceited fellow
that sate at the Bishops table, havin^ dianke once or twise
of the utcunque, so much disliked it that he wouki drink
no more of it. Therefore he spake to one of the Bishops
servants that waited at table, to give him a draught of tne
[p* $83 ] ^^^ ^^ tangere, & withal pronounced unto him, in the
presence of the Bishop these two merry Latin verses ex
tempore.
Si das Utcunque, dsemon vos tollat utrunque :
Ibis ad astra poli, si fers Me tangere noh.
With this and such other pleasant conceits we recreated
our selves that night at Uberwinter, and the next moming
being munday and the nineteenth of September^ we tooke
boate againe about three of the clocke, and came to Colen
which was eighteene miles beyond it, about tenne of the
same morning: our whole journey betwixt Mentz and
Colen was about seventv eight miles. I observed in a
great many places^ on both sides of the Rhene, more
gallowes and wheeles betwixt Mentz and Colen, then ever
I saw in so short a space in all my life, especially within
few miles of Colen, by reason that the rusticall Corydons
of the country, which are commonly called the Boores and
Fm-bootm. the Free-booters (a name that is given unto the lewd
murdering villaines of the country that live by robbing
and spoyling of travellers, beeing called Free booters,
because they have their booties and prey from passengers
free, paying nothing for them except they are taken) do
commit many notorious robberies neere the Rhene, who
are such cruell and bloody horseleaches (the very Hyene
& Lycanthropi of Germany) that they seldome robbe any
man but forthwith they cut his throat. And some of
them doe afterward escape, by reason of the woodes neere
at hand in which they shelter themselves free from danger.
308
OBSERVATIONS OF BONN
Yet others are sometimes taken, and most cruelly excarni- Tieir
ficated and tortured upon these wheeles, in that manner /•""*""■'■
that I have before mentioned in some of my observations
of France. For I sawe the bones of many of them Ue
uppon the wheele, a doleful spectacle for any relenting
Christian to beholde. And upon those gallowes in divers
places I sawe murderers hane, partly in chaines, and
partly without chaines. A punishment too good tbr these
CyclopicaJI Anthropophagi, these Caniball man-eaters. 1 [p, 5S4,]
have heard that the Free-booters doe make themselves so
strong, that they are not to be taken by the country. For
I observed a tcwne about twenty miles on this side Colen,
called Remagan, situate neere the Rhene, which about Remagen
some ten yeares since was miserably ransacked by these 'f^'^^
Free-booters, who banded themselves together in so great -^" "'
a troope as consisted of almost three thousand persons.
The towne it selfe they defaced not, but only took away
their goods, to the utter undoing and impoverishment of
the inhabitants, The like they did to a goodly Palace
hard by it called the Priepositura, by reason that it
belongeth to an Ecclesiastical Proepositus, a man of great
authority, that doth sometimes make his residence in that
place. Within a few miles on this side Colen we arrived
at the layre towne of Bonna situate on the left bank of the Bohh.
Rhene, a place of great antiquity. For it was built either
a little before the mcarnation of Christ, or in the time of
Christ. That it is ancient it appeareth by the testimony
of that famous Geographer Claudius Ptolemieus of Alex-
andria, who lived about 140 yeares after Christ, in the
time of the Emperour Marcus Aurelius Antonius sur-
named Philosophus. This towne is the eieventh and the
last Telonium of all those betwixt Mentz & Colen. It
bclongeth to the Archbishop of Colen, and professeth the
same religion that he doth, which is that of the church
cf Rome. Here the Archbishop hath a Palace situated ^rtiBiii
hard by the Rhene, a most magnificent and princely build- '*"''''■'■
ing, but much inferiour to divers PaJaces both of our Kir
James, and of many Noblemen of England. Which
I
CORYATS CRUDITIES
therefore adde because one of my company that advised
me to behold it well, told mee it was a Palace of so great
magnificence, that he thought all my coimtry of England
comd not yeeld the like. But surely his opinion was verv
false and erroneous. For besides many other English
[p. 585.] Palaces that do surpasse that of the Archbishop of Colen,
there is one in mine owne country of Somersetshire, even
the magnificent house of my most worthy and right Wor-
StrEdwarJ shipful neifi^hbour and Mecoenas Sir Edward Phihppes now
MMUr\fthi "^*^^^^^ of the Rolles (whome I name honoris causi) in
Roiit. ^^ towne of Montacute, so stately adorned with the
statues of the nine Worthies, that may bee at the least
equaUy ranked with this of Bonna, if not something pre-
ferred before it. At this towne the stiepe Rhenish
Mountaines, which did on both sides indose the Rhene
like to naturall walles or Bulwarkes betwixt the towne of
Bing (as I have before said) and Bonna for the space of
more then fifty miles, do desinere in planiciem, which
>lain continued till I came to the farther bound of my
oumey upon the Rhene in the Netherlands, as I have
)efore said also. Bonna with Colen and many other
goodly Townes in that tract was once most grievously
spoyled by the Normans in the time of the Emperour
Lotharius the second.
It hapned that this nineteenth day of September when
I came to Colen, was according to the computation of thc
Church of these parts of Christendome the feast of St.
Michael the Archangel, which was ten dayes sooner there
then with us in England. Upon which day there werc
many religious ceremonies celebrated in the City of Colm,
and great shewes of Saints reliques. Amongst other
things I observed a very frequent concurse of people at a
little Chappei situate on the left side of the Rhene about
a mile on this side Colen, in which they report the body of
5. MMmus. St. Maternus was buried, who was one of the Disciples of
St. Peter the Apostle, and the first converter both of thc
City of Colen, and of divers other Cities and Townes in
the Provinces thereabout from Gentilisme to Christianity.
310
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
Buf at this day there is only the shrine of him shewed in
the foresaid Chappell in which his body was once in-
tombed. That shrine they worshipped very religiousty
with many holy ceremonies upon that day of St. Michael. [p. 586,]
But now it is only an empty monument void of any thing.
For his bones were afterward carried to the City of Trevirs
{as I heard divers report in Colen) where they are kept to
this day together with many ancient reliques of other
Saints which that City doth more abundantly yeeld (as
many have told me m divers places) then any City of all
Christendome saving Rome.
The end of my Observations of some parts of
high Germanie.
The Beginning of my Observations of the
Netherlands.
I
My Observations of Colonia Agrippina com-
monly called Colen.
'JiUius Cjesar Scaliger hath written these verses upon
Colen.
Maxima cognati Regina Colania Rheni,
Hoc te etiam titulo Musa superba canit.
Romani statuunt, habitat Germania, terra est
Belgica, ter fcelix nil tibi Diva deest.
Scariger'i
I He ancient Ubii that are mentioned by
Csesar and Tacitus, having abandoned
their owne native country, which was
neare to the river Albis in Saxonie, by
reason oi their continuall broiles and con- '
flicts with the Suevians, came into this
territory where Colen now standeth, and [P- 587-]
are said to be the first original founders thereof, many founJtn of
yeares before the incarnation of Christ, fi-om whom the ^"'"S"-
City derived the denomination of Ubiopolia before it
was called Colonia. But I cannot finde in any authour
A
CX)RYAT'S CRUDITIBS
either the designation of the certaine yeare of the foimcbr
tion, whereby a man might gather how long beibre the
comming of Christ it was first fbunded, or mention of a&y
principaB men of that nation of the Ubii that might bie
properiy intitled the foimders thereof. After it was
roimded by these Ubii, it hapned that Julius Cesar haviog
conquered it together with many other Rheniah Cities
before mentioned, on the left side of the river, buik i
wooden bridge over the Rhene, to serve for the oon-
veighing of his armie into the other side of the riveri
that he might fight with the Germans : and from thenoe-
forth it was under the subjection of the Romans for many
yeares. Not long after tne time of Julius Cssar it was
so exceedingly amplified and inlarged by the Romans,
that it farre surpassed all the Cities whatsoever in all the
fokfffi bordering Provmces. But to whom the glory of this
12^^^ , amplification is to be ascribed, the authours doe some-
SiRomans. thing difiFer. For the Colonians themselves thinke (as
it appeareth by a memorable inscription written upon their
Prsetorium which I will hereafter mention) that Marcus
Vipsanius * Agrippa sonne in law of Augustus Csesar (fbr
he married his daughter Julia the widow of his worthy
nephew Marcellus, who was sonne to his sister Octavia)
founded it about sixteene yeares before the incarnation or
Christ. Others attribute it to Agrippina the wife of
renowned Germanicus Csesar, and daughter of the fore-
said Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa by his wife Julia ; which
certainly in my opinion is the more probable of the two,
because it is confirmed by the testimony of a very authen-
ticke and irrefragableauthour,Cornelius Tacitus,who lived
shortly after the time of Agrippina, even in the daies of
p. 588.] the Emperour Tiberius. For he writeth that the Lady
Agrippina to the end shee might shew her power to the
bordering nations of her country, commanded that a
colonie of old sovddiers (which we commonly cail trained
sovddiers) should be planted in the towne or the Ubians,
* This is that Agiippa of whom Virgil speaketh in his eighth ^nd.
Parte aiii ventis & diis Agrippa secundis arduus, &c.
312
7
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
who imposed a double name upon it, both that of Colonia,
because it was amplified hj a colonie of Roman souldiers,
and that of Agrippina from her owne name, because shee
was borne in that towne. From that time it was inhabited
by the Romans for the space of foure hundred yeares, till
the time of Marcomirus King of France, who chaced them
out of the City, After that the Emperour Otho sur-
named the Great, tooke it away from the Frenchmen, and
made it tributarie to the Roman Empire, under whose
sacred protection it hath ever since remained for the space
of more then sixe hundred years to this day.
The situation of Colen is very delectable, For it Situatiim af
standeth in a pleasant and fruitfuU plaine hard by the ^""S?"-
Rhene, which washeth the walls thereof, as it doth Basil
and Mentz. The compasse of it is so great, that I heard
it credibly reported a man can hardly goe round about
it under the space of foure houres, which if it be true, it
containeth in circuit at the least eight of our Enghsh
miles. The buildings of the City both publique and
private are very faire, and many of their private houses
I observed to be of a notable heigth, even foure stories
high, whereof some are built altogether with stone, and
some with timber. As for the walles of the City they City viaib,
are built in that manner that they yeeld great beauty to
the same. For they are compacted of very strong and
hard stone, and raised to a stately heigth,and distinguished
with a great company of turrets which doe specially gar-
nish the citie. Besides whereas the wall extendeth it
selfe in a great length upon the very banke of the Rhene,
it presenteth a farre of a passing beautifiill shew unto
them that approch towards the City upon the river, either [P- 589-]
from the East or West. Their streets and market places Stretis and
are many and very spacious, especially two market places """'*«' /^<
that I tooke exact notice of above the rest, whereof the
one in which they ordinarily sell their necessaries and keepe
their markets, is a hundred threescore and sixteen paces
long, and threescore and three broade. The other where
their Merchants doe meete twise a day which they call
3»3
CORYATS CRUDITIBS
in Latin fonim fcEnarixim, because they use to sell hay
in the same, is the fairest that I saw in my whole voyage,
saving that of St. Marks street in Venice. For it is two
himdred and fourescore paces long, and fourescore and
fbure broade. For indeede I meated them both. And
this last market place is marvailously graced with many
svmiptuous and stately buildings both at the sides and the
endes. Surely the beauty of mis market place is such by
reason of so many magnificent houses inciuding it^ that I
thinke if a downe that never saw any faire shewes in his
life should suddenly arrive there, he would be halfe
amazed with the majestie of the place. The number of
Cokffii kas their Churches is more (if that be true that many reported
*J*J^ imto me) then in any City I saw in my joumey, though I
have written of two hundred in Venice. Nay I thmke
no city in Christendome doth yeeld so many savin^ Rome,
but I speake with a restriction, if that be true which they
reported. For they say thcir city can yeeld a Church m
every day in the yeare : that is, in the total number, three
himdred threescore and five. But in this simune they
reckon all their little chappels belonging to Nimnes and
to all other religious convents whatsoever. Yet I be-
leeve they can hardly make up the full nximber of three
hundred threescore and five. For Munster that maketh
a catalogue of their Churches, reckoneth no more of them
then there are weeks in the yeare, even two and fifty,
which abridgeth their number by three himdred and
fifteen. But indeede he exdudeth out of his account all
their little chappels, whereof I understand there is a great
multitude in the city, all which they adde imto the rest
to make up their number of three hundred threescore and
five.
Their Cathedrall Church which is dedicated to St.
Peter, is a goodly building, but it is great pittie that it is
so imperfect. For it is but halfe ended. Doubtlesse it
would be a very glorious & beautifuU worke if it had been
throughly finished, especially for the outward workman-
ship, which is excellently adorned at the east end with
314
[P- 590-]
CatkiJral
Churckof
S. Pe/ir.
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
many lofty pillars and plnnades that doe wonderfully gar-
nish that part. Amongst many other worthy monuments
that are contained in this Church, one is that which is the
most (umous of all Europe, whose feme hath resounded
to the farthest confines of all Christendome. For what
is he of any meane learning or understanding that hath
not at some time or other in his life heard of the three T?' '^*™
Kings of Colen? Therefore because it is so remarkable q'E^_
a monument, and so mucH visited by all strangers that
come to the Citie, I visited it as well as the rest, and
observed it aftcr a more strict and curious manner then
every stranger doth. For I wrote out the whole history
of them, and have made as particular a discription of the
monument as I could possibly doe. Therefore both the
description of the sepulcher wherein the bones of the
Kings lie, and the history I present unto thee for a
noveltie. For certainly I for mine owne part never read
it in print before I came thither, Neither havc I heard
of any man that hath seene it publikely printed but in the
same place, which is the reason that moveth me to beleeve
fhat this will be a novelty to every reader that hath not
seene the same there as I have done. Biame me not if I ^
am something tedious. For this being the most renowned Tieir mimu-
monument oT Christendome may not be briefly past over "jl^^lj':!
with a few words. Though I know that most of our cAriiUmiom.
learned Protestants will take this history for a mcere fig-
ment, neither am I for mine ownc part likewise perswaded
but that there are some vaine and frivolous things con- [p. 591.]
tained in it, which cannot be justified by the most learned
Papists of Christendome : in so much that whereas I often
observed for that little time that I was in the Citie, many
devout oraizons made at the monument, I said to my •
selfe that their praiers unto the kings were in vaine, & '•
did but beate the aire, whether the bones of the Magi
were there or no, Howbeit seeing chere are some few
things amongst the rest that are not altogether unworthy
the noting, I hope it will not be offensive unto any learned
& zealous Protestant that I have here inserted this history
3^5
CORYATS CRUDITIES
of the three Kings, which I thinke was never beibre so
amply communicated to my country. This iamous sraul-
cher standeth at the East end of the Church in a nire
Chappel that containeth nothing but the same Monu-
ment, unto the inner part of wmch Chappell there is no
accesse all the day but betwixt sixe and eight of the dodce
in the morning, because the dore of it is alwaies locked,
savinc; at that time. The fabricke it selfe by reason oi
the glorious and most resplendent ornaments about it, is
so rich that I never saw the like, neither doe I thinke that
in all the westerne parts of the world there is the like to be
Tii skrine. seene. The shrine that containeth the bones of these
Saints is within the Chappel (as I have abready said^ and
is elevated some two yurds above the ground, being
inclosed round about with a double grate of yron barres
of some foure yards hi^h, contrived in the fbrme
of a lattise window, and rairely painted with red in the
outside towards the Church. AIso in the same port of
the lattise that looketh towards the Church, there is repre-
sented a great multitude of ^olden starres, in token that a
starre conducted them to ^hrist. The matter whereof
the shrine is composed wherein their sacred bones are
shrowded, is pure bright shining brasse, wherein are two
rowes of pretty religious images, made in brasse also,
and it is garnished with many exquisite devices contrived
in checker worke with ^e colours that doe much adome
[p. 592.] the monument. Besides there is wonderfull abundance of
precious Stones of different kinds and great worth, in-
serted into two severall degrees of the monument, whereof
many are fuUy as big as my thumbe. For the tombe is
divided into two parts, the higher and the lower. At thc
Wist end of West end or front of it which looketh towards the Church,
tkitmb. there are many glittering and rich ornaments, which are
not so openly exposed that every body may come to
handle them. For there is a partition betwixt them and
that part of the Church where people use to stand to
behoid them. Some of the principall riches doe consist
partly in an image of our Lady, & partly in certaine cups
316
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
or goblets that hang at the front. The image of our
Lady who is represented bearing Christ in her armes, is
very costly. For it is said that it is made of pure silver,
and double gilted. The goblets in number ten, which
are hanged directly before the image upon a brasen rod
some two yards long, are said to be made of massie gold,
one whereof the Emperour Charles the fifth bestowed
upon the monument. For a testimony whereof there is
hanged up a square plate of gold, wherein the blacke
spread-eagle which is the Emperours armes, is engraved,
and this inscription following is written. Invictissimus '""■"/*"''"f w
atque potentissimus Carolus V. Imper. & Hispaniarum
rex Augustissimus, Deo omnipotenti, beatie MariEe, S S
tribus Regibus die 3 Januarii, Anno Domini. 1554. prx-
clarum munus dono obtulit, Liltewise unto another
of these tenne ihere is fixed another square plate of gold,
wherein this inscription is written. Beatte Virgini Maria
sanctissimee, & tribus Regibus Reverendus & illustris
Princeps & Dominus D, Joannes Gebhardus ex Comiti-
bus i Mansfelt electus & confirmatus Archiprarsul Agrip-
pinus, sacri Romani Imperii per Italiam Archicancella-
rius, Princeps Elector, Westphalis & AngariEe Dux, Leea- , ,„
_ ' '^ , j- ■'^ .1 1 S- r j- Imagee/OnT
tusque natus, dono dicavit. Also, berore our Ladies i^^j°
image there hangeth a marvellous rich crosse of massie
gold adorned with a great multitude of precious stones, [p- 593-]
& under her image there are many rich stones of divers
lcinds. Moreover before her image there stand fbure
candelsticks wherein there do alwaies burne foure waxen
tapers. Two of these candelsticks are exceeding faire
and much costHer then the rest. Againe the top of the
frontispice of the monument is beautified partly with the
images of the three Kings formed in silver, and richly
gilted, who are most curiously counterfaited, bearing their
gifts in thelr hands, gold, mjrrhe, and fr^nkencense ;
and partly with the like image of our Lady standing
in the very middest with Christ in her armes. One ^'""i" 0/'^'
of the Kings is prcsented like a blacke Moore with a '*"'' '^*'
golden crowne upon his head. The other two uncovered-
CORYATS CRUDITIES
In the outward edge of the front these vcrscs m
written.
Corpora Sanctonxm loculus tenet iste Magorum,
Indeque sublatiim nihil est alibive locatum.
Sunt juncti Felix, Nabor & Gregorius istis.
In the middle of this outward edge there is presented i
faire scutchin and armes under the which this is written.
Renovatum aere Q. R. D. Joannis
Walschartz Tungri S. T. D.
Hujus Ecclesise Canonid, Anno 1597. ora pro eo.
All this that I have hitherto written since I first made
mention of the monument, containeth nothing but a
istory ofthe description thereof. Now followeth the history which is
wument. altogether as memorable as the monument it selfe. It
was within these few yeares printed at Colen, and is pasted
upon three severall tables which hang apart in as many
distinct places without the Chappel. It is divided into
nine particidar sections. Also each section hath its mar-
ginall notes, which because they are so many that the
margent of the Page cannot conveniently containe them,
I have (contrary to the common custome) subscribed thc
quotations belonging to each section, directly under thc
section it selfe.
>• 594-] The title of the history is this.
Brevis historia M agorum ex sacris literis & probatis
Ecclesiae scriptoribus collecta.
The historie it selfe is this foUowing.
i*Ty^Agi, qui primi onmium ex gentibus Christi Salva-
-LVA toris inrantiam in Bethleem ^decimotertio post
nativitatem die adorarunt, ^ tres numero fuenmt. Ac si
"^Epiphanio credimus, ex Abraham originem duxerunt,
ex filiis ejus quos ex ^ Cethura ancilla suscepit, descen-
dentes. Cui non repugnat qu6d ' Origines et • Chryso-
stomus ad ^Balaam JProphetam Gentilem, Magorum
318
mt sectm.
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
originem referunt. Nam & ipse, sicut etiam ' Regina
Saba, ex ejusdem CethurEe filiis duxit originem.
The quotations of this first section are these.
' Math. 2. ''Ammonius Alexandrinus in Harmonii
Evangelica. Alcuinus de divinis officiis. cap. de Epi-
phania. Anselmus in 2. Math. Nicephorus lib. i.
Ecclesiastici historise. cap. 13. = Leo serm. i, 3, 4, c, 6,
7, 8. de Epiphania. August. serm. i. de Epiphania, &
Rupertus in 2. Math. ^ In compendio doctrinEC Chris-
tianse. ' Genes. 25. ' Homilia 13. in Numer. * Homilia
ex variis in Math. locis. Petrus de Natalibus lib. 2. Cata.
Sanct. 4 cap. 48. cap. ^ Numer. 24. ' 3 Reg. 10.
2 Nomina eorum, aetas, & vultus cujusmodi, fuerint,
& qua? quisque munera obtulerit, sicut ex majorum tradi-
tione acceperat, his verbis describit Venerabilis ' Beda.
Primus, inquit, dicitur fuisse Melchior, senex barba pro-
lixa & capillis, aurum obtuHt regi Domino. Secundus
nomine Gaspar, Juvenis imberbis, rubicundus, thure quasi
Deo oblatione aigna Deum honorabat. Tertius fiiscus,
integr^ barbatus, Balthasar nomine, per myrrham filium
hominis moriturum professus est, Quod autem unus [p, 595
eorum niger & ^thiops depingi soleat, ut in multis iisque
antiquis apud nos picturis apparet, ex eo profectum vide-
tur, tum quod Beda tertium fuscum fiiisse perhibit, tum
quod ex Psalmo 72, die Regum in Ecclesia decantatur,
Coram illo procident .Sthiopes.
The quotation of this section is short, only this.
Venerabilis B. in Collectaneis.
3 Non obscuri eos loci aut ordinis, sed Principes viros TAin/ 1,
atqui etiam Reges fuisse, quod Christi gloriam maximfe
illustrat, pium est credere. Id enim veteris legis ■ figurae,
qufe in Solomone antecessit, 8f Prophetarum, maximi
^ Davidis & " Esaise, vaticiniis consentaneum est.
Quorum ille inquit. Reges Tharsis & insula- munera
CORYArS CRUDITIES
ofFerent, Reges Arabum & Saba dona adducent. Po»-
terior vero : & abulabunt gentes in liunine tuo^ & R^es
in splendore ortus tui. Qus de Magorum vocatione
oblationeque ab Ecclesia & ^ sanctis Patribus inteUigtintur.
Item ^ Herodis ac totius urbis Hierosolymitans ad eomm
adventum trepidatio, munera item predosa, quse ex thes-
auris suis deprompsisse referuntur, Majorum denique
traditio soriptis, ' sermonibus cantionibus, hymjiis, & pic-
turis ut vulgaribus sic antiquis prodita, confirmant. Nec
2uidquam ad rem facit quod Evangelista non appeUavit
LCges, sed Magos. Id enim ' cons^t6 factum est^ quod
Chnsti gloria nostraque religio Magorum sive Sapientum
testimonio podiiis qukm Regum potenti^ constabiliendi
videretur.
The quotations of the third section.
• 3 Reg. lo. ^ Psal. 72. • Esaiae 60. * Chrysost. homiL
I. ex variis in Matth. lods. Leo sermone de Epiphanil
* Matth. 2. cap. 3, ver. ' Tertullianus lib. 3. contn
Judseos cap. 9. Isidorus de passione Dominica cap. 15.
Ansebnus & Theophylactus in 2. cap. Math. Vide Cicer.
de Divinatione. Plinius lib. 3. naturalis historiae. cap.
I. Adam Sasbont homil. de Epiphanii. Frandscus
Suarez in 3. par. D. Thomce tomo 2. 'Melchior Canus
lib. II. Locorum Theologicorum, cap. y. Hector Pin-
tus in I. cap. Danielis. Csesar Baronius lib. i. Anna-
lium.
• 59^-] 4 Ad professionem eorum quod attinet, tametsi non
desint qui ^ Magorum nomine maleficos ac magids artibus
mrthsictum, instructos accipiant : potior tamen illorum sententia nobis
esse debet qui ^ Sapientes astrologos fuisse arbitrantiu',
qui arte mathematica (ut ^ Cjrprianus loquitur) vim & dis-
cursum noverant planetarum, & elementorum naturam,
& astrorum ministeria certis experimentis observabant
Undft convenient^ admodiim, divina * Sapientia qucB dis-
ponit omnia suavit^r, Stelise potissimiiim indido illos tan-
quam astrorum peritos ad se pertraxit, accedente tiun
3to
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
gratiae divinat lumine, tum hominum ex Scripturis demon-
stratione. Nam de loco ^ubi Christus nasceretur, k
Scribis, ex ^ Michea instructi sunt & Stellam illam Messiae
ortum significare, ex ^ Balaam Prophetii per Majorum
traditionem acceperunt.
The quotations of the fourth.
^ Justinus dialogo contra Tryphonem. Origines lib.
I. contra Celsum, & homilia 13. in Numeros. Chrysos-
tomus homilia i & 14 ex variis in Matth. locis. Augusti.
sermone 2 de Epiphanii. ^Chrisost. homilia 2 operis
imperfecti. Leo sermone 4 de EpiphaniH. Hieronymus
in 2 cap. Daniel, & 47 Esaise. Anselmus & Rupertus in
2 Matth. ^ sermo de stelli & Magis. ^ Sapientise 8.
* Matth. 2. ® MichesB 5. ^ Numeri 24. Origines
homilia 13 in Numeros & lib. i contra Celsum. Leo
sermone 4 de Epiphanii.
5 Ex Arabii Fcelice venisse, quod ^ Justinus Martyr, f^iftA sictm.
^ TertuUianus, ^ Cvprianus, & * Epiphanius memoris pro-
diderunt, verisimile videtur. Tum quod Arabia respectu
Judeae ad Orientem, Tacito^ teste, sita; tum •qu^d
iuri, ^thuris, & m^h« ferax sit: demiim quodVc
opinio consentiat cum Esais ^ vaticinio : Omnes de Saba
(quse, teste in eum locum, & libro qusstionum in Gene-
sim D. Hieronymo, Arabia est) venient, aurum & thus
deferentes. Cum illo item •Davidico. Reges Arabum
et Saba dona adducent. Et rursus. Dabitur ei de auro
Arabiae.
The quotations of the fifth. [p. 597.]
^ Justinus Martyr dialogo contra Tryphonem. ^ Ter-
tuUianus lib. contra Judsos cap. 9 et lib. 3 contra Mar-
cionitas cap. 13. ^ Sermone de SteM et Magis. * Com-
pendio doctrinae Christianae. ^lib. 5 historiarum.
®Psal. 71. ^ Tertullianus Apologetico cap. 30, 42.
Plinius lib. 2 naturalis historise, cap. 14. ^cap. 60.
^Psal. 71.
c c. II 321 X
CORYATS CRUDITIES
SixtA ucfm. 6 Porr6 ^ auri, thuris, et myrrhac munera Christo bbtu-
lerunt, quod his rebus Arabia imprimis abundaret et
superbiret. Deindi qudd ^ Regina Saba, quam ex gente
et familia Magorum fuisse proditum est, similia dom,
aurum, inquam, et aromata, quibus j?emmas predosis
addidit, Solomoni Regi, in typum Christi donavent
Adde quod, qus Cethurs filiis munera dedisse Abraham
in 25 Geneseos commemoratur, ea ex Hebneonim tradi-
tionibus ^Epiphanius refert, vestes, aiuxun, thus, &
myrrham fuisse. Postremo non tam gentis suse moitm
& exempla majorum, verumetiam mysdcam rationem
secuti, hoc quod cordibus credunt, muneribus ^ protestan-
tur; Thus deo, mvrrham homini, auriim offerunt rtgi,
& his se instruunt donis, ut adoraturi unum, tria se seim
credidisse demonstrent, auro honorantes personam r^^iam,
myrrha humanam, thure divinam.
The quotations of the sixth.
^ Math. 2. ^3 Reg. 10 cap. ^ Compendio Doctriiue
Christians. ^ Leo sermone 2 de Epiphania.
Swefitk y Post Christi ascensionem, Ji ^ D. Thoma Apostolo in
secriati. fj j^ Christi pleniiis instructi, ad hoc baptizati, im6 ^ Pas-
tores etiam et Doctores sive Episcopi in populo suo
ordinati sunt, magnamque Gentilium turbam ad Chris-
tianse religionis cultum adduxerunt, atque ita ut primitias
frugum copiosa messis consequitur: sic Magos primitias
credentium ex Gentibus, innumerabilium fides populonun,
tanquam uberrima seges est subsecuta, impletumque
vaticinium ^Davidis, qui postquam praedixerat, Reges
Arabum et Saba dona adducent, subjungit, Et adorabunt
eum omnes Reges, et omnes gentes servient ei. Itcm
[p. 598.] * Omnes gentes quascunque fecisti, venient et adorabunt
coram te Domine, et glorificabunt nomen tuum.
The quotations of the seventh.
^ Chrysost. homilia. 2 operis imperfecti. antiquum
Calendarium citatum ab Henrico rinto, dialogorum
3^2
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
parte secunda cap. 21. Petrus de Natalibus in Gitalogo
Sanctorum lib. 26. cap. 48. ^Chrysost. homilise 6 m
Matthseum, & homilia 1 7 ex variis in Matth. locis. ^ psal.
71. *p8al. 85.
8 Postquam in senectute boni ex hk viA decesserunt, Ei^secthM.
corpora eorum prim6 Helens Augustae studio Constanti-
nopolin allata, deinde Mediolanum ab Eustor^io ejus
urbis Episcopo traducta, ^ tandem anno post Christum
natum 1 1 64 una cum corporibus SS. Foelicis ^ & Naboris
Martyrum in hanc urbem Reinoldo Archiepiscopo trans-
lata, hoc loco deposita fuerunt. Ut ver6 tribus Magis
pari numero consociarentur & Martyres, duplicareturque
funiailus triplex Sanctorum, divinit^s accidit opera Bru-
nonis Archiepiscopi, ut duobus illis Martyribus accederet
tertiuSy Gregorius Spoletanus presbyter, sub Diodesiano
& Maximiano passus. £x quo tempore Colonia Aggrip-
pina non minus celebris esse ccepit istis trium Regum
alionmique sanctorum reliquiis, qu^m Hierosolyma
Stephano, Roma Petro & Paulo, aut Hispania Jacobo,
Gallia denique Martino & Hilario.
The quotations of the eight.
^ Gulielmus Neubrigensis lib. 2 rerum Anglicanun
cap. 8. Crantzius lib. 6. rerum Saxonicarum cap. 24.
Petrus de Natalibus Catalogo Sanctorum lib. 2. cap. 48.
& lib. 4 cap. 45. Sigonius libro 140. de regno Italise.
^ Ambrosius epistola. 85.
9 ^ Agnoscamus in Magis adoratoribus Christi voca- Nhitk seetm.
tionis nostrae fideique primitias, & quem illi infantem
venerati sunt in cunabuUs, nos omnipotentem adoremus
in coelis. OfFendebant ilU infantem parvulum modicis
& vilibis pannis involutum, videbant reclinatum duro in
prsesepio, aut sinu matris pauperculs exceptum, & tamen [p. 599.]
nihil his omnibus rebus ofFensi viri barbari, veraeque
pietatis & fidei rudes adhuc & ignari, ^ procidentes adora-
verunt. ^ Imitemur saltim Barbaros nos qui cselorum
3«3
CORYArS CRUDITIES
cives sumus. Et qui Christi majestatem, potentiam,
factaque admiranda, oc Christianae fidei mysteria cognovi-
mus, fidem nostram illorum exemplo confirmemus.
Itaque cum in Ecclesia Catholici, quae veri ^Bethleem,
seu domus panis est, idem Christi corpus extertiis spede-
bus tanquam fasciis obvolutum ponitur, consecratur,
ofFertur, sumitur, aut quovis modo nobis representatur :
excitemur animo, horrescamusque & quam decet ad tanta
mysteria, & animi pietatem & reverentiam corporis affen-
mus. Nihil nos conturbet cogitationem fluctus, nec
sensuum fallax judicium, nihil hsereticorum fabulationes
moveant: sed Dei verbum certos fadat. ^Quoniam
erg6 iUe dixit Hoc est corpus meum: nulli teneamur
ambiguitate, sed credamus, & oculis intellectus id per-
spiciamus, ac postrati veneremur.
Oratio Ecclesiae.
Versus. Reges Tharsis & Insulae munera ofierunt^l |_
Respon. Reges Arabum & Saba dona adducent. j ^'
The quotations of the ninth.
^ Leo serm. 2 de Epiphania. ^ Matth. 2. ^ Chrisost.
homilia 24 in i ad Corinth. homil. 6 ad populum Anti-
ochenum. ^ Gregorius Magnus homilia 8 in Evangelia.
^Chrysost. homiha 83 in Matthaeum.
Also this foUowing in the same Table.
Deus illuminator omnium gentium, da popidis tuis
perpetua pace gaudere, & illud lumen splenaidxun in-
mnde cordibus nostris, quod trium Magonun mentibus
aspirasti.
Againe.
Lsetetur Ecclesia tua Deus Beatorum Martyrum
tuonun Foelicis, Naboris, & Gregorii confisa suffragiis,
3«4
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
atque eorum predbus gloriosis & devota permaneat, &
secura persistat.
Per Christum Dominum nostrum. Amen.
Coloniae exeudebat Joannes Durekius,
Anno 1596.
Because this history is something memorable, though [p. 600.]
indeed at the latter end there bee some false doctrine
touching the reall presence of Christ in the sacrament,
as being a thing compiled by the Jesuiticall Rabbines of
this city, as I do conjecture: I have thought good to
adde my naked translation of the same, as I have done
before of Saint Bernards epistle to the Bishop of Spira,
because every man that will reade this, cannot (I am
sure) xmderstand it in the Latin. Therefore, that he
might not be deprived of so notable a matter as this is,
I have done my endevour to translate this historie into
English, desiring thee, whatsoever thou art (gentle
reader) to pardon me, if I have not so exactly done it as
thou wouldest require at my handes. For as I told thee
in my epistie to thy selfe, which I have prefixed before
my booke, I neither professe my selfe a schoUar, nor
acknowledge my selfe worthy to be ranked amongst
scholars^ but onely wish to be accounted a friende and
lover of the Muses.
A History of the Magi gathered out of the holy
Scripturcs, and approved Writers of the Church.
^ nnHe Magi, which first of all the Gendles adored the ^<>^ ^^
JL infancy of our Saviour Christ in Bethleem the thir- ^^S^^^-
teenth day aiter his nativity, were three in number. And
(if we beieeve Epiphanius) they derived their pedime fix^m
Abraham, descending fi^om his sonnes which ne beeot
upon his handmaide Cethura. Neither is it any thmg
repugnant unto this, that Origen and Chrysostome do
referre the pedigree of the Magi to Balaam an heathen
Prophet. For both he and the Queene of Saba drew
325
CORYATS CRUDITIES
[p. 6oi.] the originall of their stocke from the same aonnes of
Cethura.
Sicmtdsictm 2. What their names, agc, and countenancc were, aod
Engrukid. ^j^^ gj^ g^ Qf ^gj^ offered, venerable Beda (accocd-
ing as he had received it by the tradition of his fbrenithers)
expresseth the matter in these wordes.
The first, auoth he, is said to be Melchior, an olde mao
with a long oeard and haire. He offered Golde to die
Kit^ our Lord.
'Die second, whose name was Gaspar, a beardlesK
young man and ruddie, honoured God with Frankeo-
sence, as being an oblation beseeming God.
The third, called Balthasar, being tawny and fulfy
bearded, by Myrrhe signified that the Sonne of man
should die. But in that one of them is wont to be
painted black, and as an ^thiopian, (as it appeaieth hj
many & those very ancient pictures amongst us) hereupon
it seemeth to be grounded, both that Beda afiirmeth that
the third was tawnie, as also that in the 72 Psalme it is
sxmg in the Church upon the Kinges day, The iEdiio-
pians shali fall downe before him.
TMrdsictm 3. That they were not of any obscure place or degree,
Euffiskid. but princes, yea kings, which doth greatly illustrate thc
glory of Christ, it is a part of piety to beleeve. For it
is agreeable both to the figure of the oid law which went
before in Solomon, & to the prophecies of the Prophets,
especialiy of David and Esay; whereof the one saith,
Tne Kings of Tarsis and of the Iles shali bring presents,
the Kings of the Arabians and of Saba shali bring gifts.
The other saith : And nations shall waike in thy &ht,
and Kinges in the brightnesse of thy rising up. Which
thinges are understood by the Church and thc Holy
Fathers, of the calling and oblation of the Magi. This
also is confirmed by the feare of Herod, and of thc whok
City of Jerusalem at the time of their conuning : by those
precious giftes which they are said to have opened out
[p. 602.] of their treasures, and by the tradition of our forefkthers,
by writings, speeches, songes, hymnes, and pictures as
326
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
common, so very ancient. Neither doth this make at all
to the matter, that the Evangelist hath not called them
Kings, but Magi. For that was done to great purpose, in
regard that Christes glory and our religion seemed to bee
established rather by the testimony of Magi cr Wisemen,
then by the power of Kings.
4. As concerning their profession, albeit there are some
that by the name of Magi doe understand wicked piersons,
and those that practise magicke artes : yet the opinion of
them ought to prevaile more with us that thinke they
were wise Astrologers, who by the Mathematicke art (as
Cyprian speaketh) knew the force and course of the
Planets, and by certaine rules of experience observed the
nature of the Elements, and the offices of the Starres.
Wherehence it came very conveniently to passe that the
divine Wisedome, which doth sweetly dispose all things,
drew them unto it especially by the token of a starre, as
being men skilfull in the arte of Astronomy : whereunto
was added both the light of the Divine grace, and also a
demonstration of men out of the holy Scriptures. For
they were instructed by the Scribes out of the Prophet
Micheas concerning the place where Christ should be
borne, and they received it as a certaine tradition of their
forefathers out of the Prophecy of Balaam, that thc same
starre did signifie the birth of the Messias.
5, That they came out of Arabia FceUx (as Justin
Martyr, Tertullian, Cyprian, and Epiphanius have written)
it seemeth very probable. Both because Arabia, in respect
of Judca, is situate towards the East (according to the
testimony of Tacitus) and also because it yecldeth plenty
of gold, frankencense, and myrrhe. Finally for that this
opinion doth agree with the Prophecie of Esay. AU they
of Saba (which is Arabia, as Hierom doth witnesse upon
the place, and in the booke of his Questions upon Genesis)
shall come, and bring gold and frankencence. And with
that of the Prophet David. The Kinges of the Arabians
and of Saba shall bring gifts. And againe, unto him shall
they give of the gold of Arabia.
CORYAT S CRUDITIES
Sixtk sictiM 6. Moreover they presented unto Christ the gifb of
Eng&sM. e;olde, frankencence, and myrrhe, because Arabia abounded
in these things especially, and gloryed therein. Also the
Queene of Saba, whome authors do write to have bene of
the stocke and familie of these Magi, bestowed the like
giftes, namely goide and spices (unto which shee added
precious stones) upon King Solomon as being a fiffure
and type of Christe. Againe those giftes which Abruam
in the 37. of Genesis is said to have given to the sonnes
of Cethura, Epiphanius writeth (according to the ttadh
tion of the Hebrewes) to have bene garments, golde, and
myrrhe. Lastly, they did it not so much to toUow the
manner of their nation and the examples of their fbre-
fathers, but also for a mysticall reason sake. For this
that they beleeve with their hearts, they protest with thdr
giftes ; they offer frankencence to God, myrrhe to a man,
and goid to a King. And they provide themselves such
giftes, that when they worship one, they dedare to the
world that they beleeve at one time in three distiiict per-
sons ; seeing they honour the Kingly person with gcude,
the humane with myrrhe, and the divine with franken-
cence.
SivintksieHon 7. After Christes ascension they were more fuUy in-
En^kid. structed by St. Thomas the Apostie in the faith of Christ,
and also baptized, yea (which is more,) they were ordained
Fastors and Doctors, or Bishops of the people amongst
whome they lived, and brought a great company of Gen-
tiies to the worship of Christian religion ; and even as t
plentifull harvest doth foUow the first fruits : so the laith
of an inumerable multitude of people, as it were most
[p. 604.] abundant corne, followed the Magi that were the first
fruites of the beleevers of the Gentiles; and thus the
prophecie of David is fulfilled, who after he had pro-
phecied, The Kings of the Arabians and of Saba shaD
bring giftes, by and by hee addeth, And ail King^ shall
worship him, and ali nations shall serve him. ^so, all
nations which thou hast made, shall come and worship
before thee O Lord, and shall glorifie thy name.
328
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
8. After that in their old age they had departed out of £igiri stcn
this life, their bodies being brought first to Constanti- ^»i^"^f^-
nople by the meanes of the Empresse Helena, then to
Milan by Eustorgius, Bishop of that Citie, at last in the
yeare after the incarnation of Christ 1 1 64. being trans-
lated therhence to this city in the time of Reinolds Arch-
bishop thereof, together with the bodies of the holy
Martyrs Saint Felix and Nabor, they were reposed in this
place. But to the end that the Martyrs might by an
even number be accompanied with the three Magi, and
that a triple corde of Saintes might bee double-twisted
together, it hapned even by the providence of the Al-
mighty, that by the meanes of Bruno Archbishop of this
City, a third Martyr should bee added to the former two,
to wit Gregory a Priest of Spoletum, that suffered martyr-
dome under the persecution of Dioclesian and Maximi-
nian, Since which time Colen began to be no lesse
famous for the reliques of these three Kings & of other
Saints, than Jerusalem was for Stephen, Rome for Peter
and Paul, or Spaine for James, or France for Martine and
Hilarie.
9. Let us acknowledge in thc Magi that were the W"M *«/w
worshippers of Christ, the first fruits of our calling, & ^"glii^td.
faith, & let us adore him being omnipotent in the heavens,
whom they worshipped being an infant in his cradle.
They found him wrapped with little base clowtes, they
saw him lying in a hard manger, or luUed in the lappe of
his poore mother ; yet those Barbarians that were as yet
utterly ignorant of true piety and faith, being nothing
offended with these things, fell downe and worshipped
him. Let us then, that are citizens of the Kingdome of
Heaven imitate these Barbarians at the least : & whereas
we have knowne the majestie of Christ, his power, ad-
mirable actes, and the mysteries of Christian faith, let us
confirme our feith by their example. Therefore seeing
that in the Catholike Church, which is the true Bethleem
or the house of bread, the same body of Christ being
wrappcd with outward signes as it were with swathing
CORYATS CRUDITIES
bandes, is placed, consecrated, offered, taken, or any other
way represented unto us : let us be stirred up in minde,
ana tremble, & bring with us both piety of minde» and
reverence of body, as it beseemeth tnose that partidptte
so great mysteries. Let neither the waves of our thoughts,
nor the deceitfull judgement of our senses a jote trouble
us, neither let the tales of Heretikes any thinfi^ move us.
But let the word of God assure us in this point. Since
then he himselfe hath said, This is my Body ; lct us be
touched with no manner of doubt» but beleeve aod
perceive the same with the eies of our understanding» and
upon our bended knees devoutly worship it.
The praycr of thc Church.
The Verse. The Kings of Tarsis, and of thc'
Ues shall brinfi: presents.
The Ans. The Kings of the Arabians and
of Saba shall bring gifts.
There hapned a thing unto me presently after I had
written out these memorabie matters of the three Kings
and the three Martyrs, that yeelded unto me a kind of
recompence for my iong labour of writing, For one of
HndCaMon. the Canons of the Church that stoode neare unto mc when
I had almost ended my writing, supposing that I was a
stranger, and observing that I ioved antiquities, invited me
606.] with a kinde of courteous and civill importunity to his
house, though we never saw each other before, and cnter-
tained me with much variety of good cheare.
Thus much concerning the Monument of the
three Kings.
IN one little Chappell of the same Church, this is
written over the Tombe-stone of one of thcir Suf-
fragans.
Laurentius Fabricius Urdingensis S.T.D. Episcopus
Cyren. Suffraganeus Coloniensis, obiit xxii. Jiuii anno
CI^. 13. C. R. I. P.
330
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
Nccre unto this thcre is a very faire monument of Otkir
Ailabaster erected to thc honor or one of their Arch- «*«««'»^'
bishops, where I reade this brief Epitaph.
Wah-amus Dux Juliacensis Archiepiscopus
Coloniensis.
In another little chappeU are two ancient monuments of
two Bishops more, whereof the one is of Fredericus Comes
de Sorverden Archiepiscopus Coloniensis, and St. Rein-
oldus Archiepiscopus Coioniensis, qui 3 Reges a Medio-
lano Coloniam attulit.
In the one side of the Church without the Quire iveth
the bodie of the Earle Arnspurgensis, who bestowed his
Earledome upon the Archbi^hoprick of Colen.
Upon one of the yron gates that belongeth to the
Chappell where the Archbishop Reinoldus lyeth, there is
i table hanged up with a little yron chaine, wherein this
religious and holy stufFe forsooth is written, which I have
thou£:ht good to set downe in this place for a notabie . ,
Bxample of the grosse superstition and vanity of thc Papists ^fp^fJst
in this citie of Coien. snfersHH^».
De indulgentiis promerendis in celebratione missse, quae [p. 607.]
dccantatur quotidi^ in capeM Beatae Mariae Virginis,
Metropoiitanae Ecclesiae Coloniensi concessis. Anno
Domini. 1454.
Sub Archiepiscopo Theodorico.
Omnibus & singulis Christi fidelibus, contritis & con-
fessis, qui hujus missse celebrationi & decantationi prse-
sentes fuerint, & flexis poplitibus devot^ Pater noster ciun
A.VC Maria tribus vicibus legerint, de omnipotentis Dei
miscricordii & Beatorum Petri & Pauli Apostolorum ejus
mcritis et authoritate confisi, auadraginta dierum indul-
K^ntias de injunctis iis poemtentiis miserecordit^ in
omino reiaxamus.
Oratio de beati Maril Virginc contra pestcm.
Obsecro te clementissime Deus> qui vitse ac mortis
drdinariam habes potestatem, per intcrcessionem genitricis
Virginis Mariae, pcstilentiae plagam miscratus a nobis
331
CORYArS CRUDITIES
averte : ut in tui viventes pietate, fonte vitac perennis^
corde, voce, atque omni operatione laudemus per Christum
Dominum nostrum. Amen.
I observed a faire monument erected over an yron dore
at the entrance of the east end of the quire, verv richly
gilted with many curious borders. And in the middle of
Efitafkof the same I read this ensuing Epitaph written in goldcD
jS^ letters.
Quis sit sarcophago quteris spectator in isto ?
Ilac plebeius humo non requiesdt homo.
Hic Archiprsesul Princepsque elector Adolphus,
Schawenburgiacxmi stemma decusque cubat.
Imperii vigor & darissima gloria sacri,
Agrippinensis mitra verenda soli :
Reiigionis amans & propugnator avits,
Delicise populi, nobilitatis amor.
In terram dignus nunquam fuit iUe reverti,
Si non und^ satus quisque recedat homo.
Terra suam refovet terram ceu sedula mater,
Ad coelestem anima est dia reversa patrem.
Tantisper dum reddatur tibi spiritus ipse,
[p. 608.] Corpus humo natum triste reciunbis humo.
Christus enim corpus terrse revocabit ab alvOy
Spiritui & reddet cui fuit ante datum.
In spe coelestis recubas hic divite vitae
O pater, 6 placidi pace potire pater.
Pace potire Pater toto memorabilis aevo,
Virtutum specimen pace potire pater.
Afterward I entred into the Quire it seife : Whcre I
observed three faire monuments of their Archbishops,
whereof the first is of the foresaid Adolphus, whose epitaph
I have akeady written. He is buried on the left side of
His sifukkri. the quire. His sepulchre is a very sumptuous peece of
Worke. For there his statue is made at length in alabaster,
being represented ieaning upon one of his armes togetfaer
with his episcopall roabes. AU that part of the monument
both above and beneath the statue, is richly decked with
332
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
faire workes and borders, images and pillars which consist
partly of alabaster, and partly of toucnstone. About the
foote of the monument this epitaph is written.
Reverendissimo Domino D. Adolpho Archiepo.
ac Frincipi Electori Coloniensi, S. Rom. Impii
per Italiam Archicancellario, legatoque
nato> Westphaliae & Angariae Duci> &c. ex
illustri familisl Comitiim k Schawen-
burg oriundo, electo die xxiiii.
Januarii Anno M. D. Xlvii. qui pi^ & pru-
dent^ Archiepiscopatui prsefuit annis
ix menses ii. dies xxv. tandemque
ultimmn diem in Domino clausit. anno
M. D. Ivi. die xx. Septembris.
Right opposite irnto this moniunent is the second, being ^^ '^^
erected on the right hand. This also is a very siunptuous **^**^'-
peece of workemanship. For it is advanced to a goodlv
heigth and garnished with his image contrived at length
in akbaster in his magnificall roabes. Likewise the [p«6o9..]
workes, piUars, and images being composed all of alabaster,
are correspondent to those of the opposite moniunent as
much as may be.
The epitaph is this.
Reverendissimo Domino D. Antonio electo ac con-
firmato Frincipi Electori Coloniensi, S. S. Imperii
Per Italiam Archcancellario, Legatoque nato,
Westphaliae & Angariae Duci, ex iUustri fami-
lii Comitum k Schawenburs oriundo» electo
Anno M D. Ivi. die xxvi. Octobris, qui fratri succedens,
in Domino obdormivit. An. m.d. Iviii die xviii Junii, atque
preventus morte, fratri justum moniunentiun
erigere non potuit uti cceperat. Reverendissimus
Dominus D. Gebhardus electus Archiepiscopus Frinceps
Elector Coloniensis Dominis & affinibus suis
charissimis pietatis ergd posuit. An. 1501.
The third is of one of their Frinces caUed Gulielmus de
333
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Genepe. An ancient thing, his image being made in
Alabaster upon the tombe. But no Epitaph saving a few
words in prose written about the foure comers of the
monument.
Having now ended my discourse of the notable monu-
ments of the Cathedrall Church, I will speake next of the
^"i^ ^ Bishopricke before I proceed any furtner, as bei^ an
CiMgHe. adjimct to the Church. The first Apostle of the Ubians
was S. Maternus, as I have before written, who was the
first Bishop of this Citie of Colen. But who was thdr
first Archbishop I cannot find. It appeareth that it was a
very ancient Archbishopricke, because Euphrates that was
deposed for his Arrianisme at the Councell holden at Coleo
in the yeare 348. (as I have before written) was in those
daies stiied with the title of an Archbishop. Yet Munster
writeth that the Archbishopricke began a long time after,
about the Yeare 755. in tne time of Charles the Great;
being translated hither from the City of Utricht, which
was about that time grievousiy wasted by the EHmes &
[p. 610.] Normanes. The titles of the Archbishop do appeare by
those Epitaphes that I have before written. Thercfore
it is supernuous to make any more mention of them.
DMckf rf Onely I wiil add a briefe note of his title of the Dutchie
Wistphaua. ^f Westphalia and Angrivaria. This titie is of good anti-
?uity. For the Archbishop that lived in the time of thc
Imperour Frediricke Barbarossa, by certaine meanes
attained to the Dutchie of Westphalia about some 400
yeares since, which dignity the Elector Prince hath evcr
since enjoyed to this day. Of the three spirituall Elector
Princes this Archbishop is the middle, being next to the
Mcguntine, and before the Trevirian. His diocesse did
in former times extend it selfc very farre. For five othcr
great Bishopricks were subject to his jurisdiction^ namely
that of Munster in Westphalia, Utricht, and of Liege in
the Netherlands, of Minda and Osnaburg in Saxonie. The
present Archbishop doth most commonly make his resi-
dence at a Palace he hath in the country, and very seldome
in the Citie. His religion together with that of Colen and
334
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
all the othcr townes in his territory, is Romish. Yet I
have read of two worthy Archbishops of this sea that 1'<^'
were so much addicted to the reformed religion, that they ^/^''t"^'" "{
meant to have rooted Popery out of their aominions, and gfj-,j^„_
in steed thereof to have planted thc true religion of Christ.
But their religious and godly endevors did not take efFect,
The first of these was Hermannus Comes a Weda. who
having sent for Philip Melanthon and Martin Bucer in the
yeare 1543 to employ their ministery in reforming the
Chiirches of his Electorate, was shortly after deposed,
and dispossessed of his Archbishopricke both by the Pope
and the Emperour, the foresaid Adolphus, whose Epitaph
I have beforc written, bein& substituted in his roome.
The second was Gebhardus Truccessius, unto whom the
like disaster hapned, to the hindering of his godly designe-
ment, as to the first. Here will I obittr give a littie glance
at a matter which is a kind of appendix unto this discourse [p. 611.]
of the Bishopricke of Colen. After I had something
survayed that long tracf betwixt the Cities of Basil and
Colen, whereof some part I had travelled by land, and
had otherwise passed by another part upon the Rhcne ; and
withall had observed so many goodly Cities endowcd with
Bishopricks on that left side of the river, no lesse thcn Blikapria en
sixe, namely Basil (for that was once a Bishopricke though '''/^^! ■'""'' f
it be not now) Strasbourg, Spira, Wormes, Mentz, & ■''
Colen ; and could not hearc of any on the adverse side of
the Rhene : by and by I entered into a scrious consideration
how it came to passe that therc were planted so many
Bishopricks on one side of the river, & none at all on the
other. But at last I searched out the cause which was this.
For that the Cities on the left side being subject first to
the Rojnanes, and afterward to the Frenchmen, were by
them sooner converted to Christianity, then thc Germane
Cities on the right side. For Gallia being converted by
S. Denis (as I have before written) one of the disciplcs of
S. Paul, gave occasion of thc speedier conversion of these
Cities also, in regard they wcre subject to the kingdome
oi France after the time of thc Romanes.
i
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
After this I visited three other Churches, which next
to the Cathedrall are accounted both the famousest and
ancientest of all Colen. These are S. Ursulaes, the Mac-
chabees, and S. Gereons. But first I went to S. Ursulaes,
because she was my countrywoman. For shee was a
Brittane borne, the name of England being unknowne io
hi9ry 0/S. her time. Here I will take occasion to rekte some short
^* history of her, by way of an introduction to my discoune
of the monuments of the Church. There was in Brittaine
a most Christian King called Dionet, who was the fiLther
of this Ladj Ursula, the fame of whose vertues extended
it selfe so rarre that a certaine King (his name I can not
. 612.] mention) hearing of the same, resolved to marry her to
his onely sonne, who sent Ambassadors to her ikther with
strict commandement that they should not retume without
her. But the king was much afflicted to consider that hii
daughter being brou^ht up in the faith of Christ, should
be married to an Infidell. And therefore was unwilling to
give his consent to the marriage. Howbeit by a certaine
revelation from God, he was required to grant the king
his request, but with this condition, that his sonne shouu
be baptized, and that he should give unto his daughter
eleven thousand Virgins, to the ena that she might convert
them to the Christian religion ; which being granted, and
she having converted them all to the faith, a little after
sailed into France with a [M-osperous wind, and from thenoe
to Colen, where she with her husband and all her company
artyrdm of q{ Virgins sufFred martyrdome for the faith of Christ, in
UrsMla. ^j^^ yeare 238. being all put to the mercilesse dint of thc
sword by certaine Barbarians, and heathenish Moores that
did at that time inhabite this Citie of Colen. The bones
of them being afterward gathered together were brougfat
unto this place, and laid in this Church which is dedicated
to S. Ursxila the principall Captaine of the whole company.
Since which time they have been very reli^iously kept in
the same place. Many yeares after which, this Ladj
Ursula with the rest of the eleven thousand Virgins was
canonized by the Chiu^ch of Rome for a Saint : the sixe
336
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
and twentieth day of Ocfober being consecrated to their
memory, as it appeareth by our ordinary Calendars printed
amongst us. Having now made some historical narration
of this Lady Ursula, I will descend to the relation of some
[jarticular matters that I observed in this Church whereof Ciardo/S.
I now speake, dedicated unto her. Here I saw a great " '
many monuments. For here I told five & thirtie great
stony sepulchres of great height, breadth, & length.
Amongst the rest I saw the tombe of S. Ursula herselfe
with her image erected at one end of it, and it is inclosed
round about with a grate of yron which none of the rest [p. 613]
have. Also this together with all the rest hath a candle-
sticke infixed into it ; and the pictures of many Queenes
with crownes upon their heads are represented upon the
sides of the monuments. Belike they were slaine here by
the Moores at the same time that S. Ursula was. The
skull of S, Ursula with two more is placed in the quire
at the top of the high altar, being put in a case or covering
of gold, but they are never shewed but upon speciall daies.
Saint Ursulaes head is placed in the middest of the three :
all which have certaine yron latteises made before them.
The bones of these virginall Martyrs are kept in severall Bmia Bfsht
places, partly in the Church of the Macchabees, and partly "^'''y'-
m the Church of S. Ursula. But here is the greatest part
of them, being distributed into divers places or the Church.
For as soone as I entred it, I observed them first in that
part of the church which is without the body, where on
three sides of the same part of the Church, their bones lie
in great heaps together, Under them are placed their
skuTs, all which are covered over with a sleight kind of
covering, But in the bodie of the Church I observed a
farrc greater multitude of these mortifying objects. There
also they are divided into three parts that inclose the bodie.
And their skuls with the like coverings are laid under
them. Likewise many images of them are erected in
divcrs places. At one end of rhe Church there is a certaine
frame made in the forme of a cupboord that containcth
their skuls onely, that are covcred with coverings !ike to
c.c. u 33; V
CORYATS CRUDITIES
the rest before mentioned, which I saw through a frame of
glasse that is placed before them. ^&^^^ ^ ^^ ^PP^
parte of the quire round about are mled up with dieir
Dones, the skms being placed under them, whereof most
have blacke taffata cases that are distinguished with littk
spangels, which yeeld a shew like twinkling starres in the
firmament. At the west end of the Churdi I saw a cer-
[p. 614.] taine secrete roome with an yron dore and strong barres
to it, wherein are kept many religious and ancient rdiquesi
which are shewed but upon some speciall festivall dayes.
SnfinAim rf Truely these Colonians are no more to be condemned for
tki Pafists. attributing that adoration and worship unto these dumbe
bones androtten skulles, which is properly and only due
to the invisible God creator of heaven and earth» who wili
be served in spirit and truth, and not Mrith such blinde
devotions that are seisoned with the leven of superstition :
no more I say, are they to be condenmed for these things,
then for their superstitious prayers which I have observed
written in some of their Churches. Espedally in this
Church of St. Ursula, whereof foure I wrote out, and
brought them home with me into Engbind, which I have
here thought good to conununicate to the reader, as well
as the rest. Hoping that they Mrill be so farre from cor-
rupting any good christian that shall reade them, that they
wil rather the more confirme him in the true religion of
Christ, by observing the grosse vanities of the ^apists.
The first was this, which I saw written in a certaine table
hanged upon one of the pillars.
Prayerstotke De Beatissiml virgine Marii.
^' Haec est praeclarimi vas paracleti Spiritus sancti» haec cst
gloriosa avitas Dei. Haec est mulier virtutis, quae ^con-
trivit caput Serpentis. Hsec est soie speciosior, luni
pulchrior, auronl rutilantior, stellis prseclarior. Hanc pec-
catores devot^ adeamus, rea pectora tundamus, dicentes.
* This is a most impious and blasphemons speech. For it was not the
Virgin Marv that brused the head of the Serpent, bat onl)r Jesns Christ
the son of God.
338
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
Sancta Maria, Sancta Maria, demens pia Domina nostra,
fac nos tuis precibus consortes coelestis glorise. Versus.
In omni tribulatione & angustia nostr^ succurre nobis
beatissima Virgo Maria.
Oremus.
Famulorum tuorum qusesumus Domine delictis ignosce,
ut qui tibi placere de actibus nostris non valeamus, geni-
tricis filii tui Domini Dei nostri intercessione salvemur:
Per eundem Christum Dominum nostrum. Amen.
Here followeth a second prayer to the [p. 615.]
Virgin Mary.
O Domina mea Sancta Maria, me in tuam benedictam A seemd
fidem, ac singularem custodiam, & in sinum misericordis trajir » tke
tuae hodii & quotidii, & in hora exitus mei, & animam '^^-
& corpus meum tibi commendo: omnem spem meam &
consolationem meam, omnes angustias & miserias meas,
vitam & finem vitae mese tibi committo. £t per tuam
sanctissimam intercessionem & perpetua merita, omnia
mea dirigantur & disponantur opera seomdum tuam
tuique fihi voluntatem. Amen.
In another side of the Church I read this prayer,
[Minted in a prety little table hanged up at one of their
candlesticks together with other tables written in Dutch.
Oratio studiosi ad Sanctam Ursulam.
Ego me & parentes & consanguineos meos, omnesque Afrajir»
mihi beni faventes, tuae intercessioni 6 Sancta Ursula ^* ^^«^'
commendo. £t rogo per virginitatem tuam ut nobis
fortitudinem in resistendis dapmonimi insidiis, constantiam
in adversitatibus, prudentiam in actionibus nostris, con-
silium in rebus dubiis, mihi foelicem progressum in studiis
meis \ Domino nostro Jesu Christo impetrare digneris;
tuaque sanctissima intercessione nos delictorum catenl
constrictos solvere, ac salutaria corpori ac animo per
nobilissimum sanguinem tuum, quem pro Christi amore
efiFundere non perhorruisti, quaeso expostulare non inter-
339
CORYArS CRUDITIES
mittas : & adolescenti qui in honorem tuum hanc oratiun-
culam composuit, minique in omnibus adversitatibus
succerrere digneris. Amen. Under the prayer this is
written with a pen. 1607. ^7* Mensis Apnlis.
Clamri of the Next I went to the Church of the Maccabees, in which
MMccahas. ^^j yeport the Bones of that holy mother of the Macca-
bees and her seven sonnes doe lye, that were with such
most horrible and exquisite tortures punished by King
Antiochus before the incarnation of Chiist, as it appeareth
at large in the seventh chapter of the second booke of the
Maccabees, where it is mentioned that the seven sonnes
[p. 616.] together with their mother had their tongues and thc
Martyrdom §/ utmost jparts of their bodies cut ofF by the conunande-
tkiMsccMieis. ment of King Antiochus, their skinne pulled over their
heads with their haire ; and lastly were fryed in a fiying
pan, only because they would eate no swines flesh. Cer-
tainely this monument is very memorable, and worthy to
be seene by a curious traveUer, if a man were sure that
these were the true bones of them. For truly fbr my
owne part I will confesse, I love to see these kind of
things as much as any man living, especially when I am
perswaded that there is no delusion. But indeed there is
so great uncertainty in these Papisticall reliques, that a
man cannot certainly tell which are true, and which are
false. Over the dore as I entred the Court that leadeth
to the Church, I observed the image of the mother and
her seven sonnes boyled in a cauldron, with the flames
of fire under it, and beneath the image this inscription is
written.
Salomona vocor cocta sartagine,
Cum liberis litor ignis aspergine,
Agens moestissimum Deiparce typum.
Under another image also in the same front, this is
written.
Unda Rheni rosea fit sanguinis madore,
Corpora Virginea hlc ensis stant in ore,
Dat Prssul Keinoldus Maccabeis sedem.
340
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
Againe, over the dore at the entrance of the Church it
s^e, I read these two verses written in golden letters
upon a ground of aziire.
Arca Virsineo prids h!c imbuta cruore,
Nunc macabeorum corpora sacra tegit.
In the quire of the Church is the Monument of the MMumintto
mother and her seven sonnes behinde the high Altar, ^^^^^''
whose bones and skulles (they say) are kept in the same.
The moniunent is made of wainscot, at the top whereof
the image of King Antiochus is erected with Solomona
and her seven sonnes, but one of the images of the seven
is broken. Upon one side of the monument I read this [p. 617.]
inscription in golden letters. Diva Solomona cum
septem suis filiis Maccabeis in hic arca continetur. In
another side this. Antiochus Rex septem fratres Macca-
beos & matrem eorum martyrio interemit. Round about
the Quire of the Church these sentences are written in
golden letters. In one place this. O quim fragrantia
hlc redolent Martynun opobalsama. Next this. O
qudm purpurei hic spirant Vir^inum flores. In another
place this. Hic cert^ sunt candidis Lilia rosis mista. In
another place this. £t prata spiritalibus vernantia gem-
mis. Hic vides serta quibus Dominus coronatur. In
another place this. Ut in penitissimo pectoris tui
recessu. Last this. Vivus tibi semper atque caelestis
ignis exsestuet 6 Colonia. Againe about the body of the
Church this is written.
Christo par decus atque habeat hoc Paracletus idem.
Maxima dehinc sacro dabitur reverentia cultu
Reliquiis diviim ccelitibusque piis.
Ecce Panomphaeo dicata haec sacra Tonanti,
Sacra profecto sedes sanguine tincta sacro.
Ecce triumphales arcus super^que triumphos,
Aptaque virgineo pulchra trophaea choro.
Victor adest Christus, victrix est Ursula virgo,
£t Macabaeorum paima decora Ducum.
341
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
In another place this.
Hic Sanctis optata quies, optataque Tempe,
Qiii quondam herooso hoc procubuere solo.
Hi coelo, terrae, pelago dominantur et aurse,
£t summum norunt conciliare Deum.
Non igitur talis toto thesaurus in orbe,
Exuperans Crsesi divitiasque Myde.
In another part of the Chiirch under the historicall
Pictures of St. Ursula and other Virgins that were Mar-
tyred with her, this is written. Ursulanarum virginum
stragem hic pih et sinceri o viator venerator. In another
place this. Sacrum earundem sanguinem hoc Magdalens
[p. 6i8.] quondam* infusimi sacello reverent^ colunto. In an-
other place this. Insigne hoc Pugilum Christi poljran-
MMjnScs. drium puro corde exosculantor. AIso I observed an
exceeding multitude of the Virgins bones laid within cer-
taine yron lattises round about the Quire, and the body
of the Church ; and under them are erected their images
represented a little beneath their breast, and fairely gilt.
Lastly, I visited the temple of Saint Gereon, a holy
man that was martyred in this city, in the tenth persecu-
tion of the primitive church under the Emperour Dio-
clesian. Over the dore whereof at the first entrance this
is written in golden letters.
Templmn Sanctorum.
Gereonis sociorumque ejuss ccc. xviii. Thebeonim Mar-
tyrum & Gregorii, sociorumque ejus ccc. Ix. Maurorum
Martyrum.
ri!^'^^^ In this Temple I saw many Tombes of Thebean Mar-
mgn^n. ^^^^ ^*^ ^^^^ martyred with Saint Gereon, and of thc
Moores that sufFered martyrdome with Saint Gregory.
These tombes are in the body of the Church : seven in a
Tombe, eight, ten in a Tombe, 8«:. with the pictures of
them in the outside, whose bodies are inclosed in thc
* By this I gather that the holy Virgins were slaine in this very place
where the Church now standeth.
342
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
inside. Also there is one veiy grcat stony Tombe in a
lowe vault or crypta, under the entrance of the Quire,
and at the entry or the same vault there is an yron grate.
In this Tombe lyeth the body of Saint Gereon, and many
more of the Thebean Martyrs. In the same vault there
is a taper alwaies burning. Also round about the Quire
the whole history of his martyrdome and his associats is
written in Latine in ancient doth of Arras. And towards
the end of the Quire the bones and skulles of the same
Martyrs are inclosed within a frame of glasse on both sides
of the Quire, their skulles being covered with pretty
silken cases as those of the Virgins in the Church of
Saint Ursula and the Macchabees. In the middest of
each of these bones is the head of a blacke Moore placcd, [p. 619.]
made as farre as his breast, whereof the one representeth
Saint Gregory ; whom the other, I know not.
The histories of sacred and religious matters being
ended, I will now descend to civill and secular matters :
and will make mention of their Prjctorium or Senate
house, which they commonly call the Rathausz. Cer- TheRathhaui.
tainly the outward workmanship of it is a thing of such
gorgeous magniiicence and admirable state that I preferre
it both for the front, and for most of the outward worke,
before any Senate house that ever I saw either in my owne
country, or abroad : only the PrjEtorium of Padua ex-
cepted, which is commonly esteemed the fairest of Chris-
tcndome. This of Colen is of a most lofty heigth, which
maketh it seen a farre oiF, wholy composed of very ele-
gant stone, & most excellently beautified with great store
oi faire images ; also the curious workes in stone, the
pinnacles, and other exquisite devices together with the
delicate white toppe, doe yeeld a most pompous shewe,
Hard by this goodly building which seemeth to be of
some antiquitie, is lately erected another portly edifice as
part of the Senate house, which doth marvaJIously adorne
it. For besides other ornaments it hath a faire galery,
and a fine wallce beneath. Thc edge whereof is beauti-
fied with rich marble piilars, whose bases are exactly
GORYATS CRUDITIES
wrought with many artificiall borders. Also to adde the
more grace to the worke the pillers of the top are at both
eades ^ted. Moreover there is another thing which doth
exceedingly gamish this beautifuU structure. For whereas
there are three severall fronts beionging to this buikUng,
each of them is decked with memorwle histories touching
the antiquities of this renowned city, which indeed doe
wwthily illustrate the place. In the fairest front of all,
these two histories. First this.
M. Vipsanio L. F. Agrippse, qui Octavii Imp. Aug.
[p. 620.] aener ejus in Pontif . ac Trib. pot, imperioque Collega
ractus & successor ab eo delectus, Senatum populumque
Ubionmi trans fl. Rhenimi in hanc citeriorem ripam
traduxit, urbemque hanc auspicato opportimissimoque
k primis fundamentis loco condidit ; moenibusque
firmissimis cinxit, atque variis publicis operibus et
illustribus monumentis omavit. Cos. S.P.Q. Agripinensis
post tot ssecula fundatori suo grati.
Next this.
But betwixt these two inscriptions there is a golden
Lyon carved in stone, toj^ther with a certaine valiant
Champion, who dapping his cloake about his arme> did
very couragiously thrust his hand into his mouth, & slue
the Lyon.
Historyofthi Therefore before I write the nexte inscription I wiU
^»^ ofa YitTt, adde a passing memorable history, which I have both
heard in the Citie, and read in Munster, touching the man
that slue the Lyon ; which indeed is as worthy the readif^
as any thing I have written in my whole booke. It
hapned about the yeare of our Lord 1260. that there was
reat dissention betwixt the Archbishop of Colen and the
\\ty : at what time it chanced also that two of the Canons
of the Cathedrall Church that favored the Bishops faction,
had a certaine Lyons whelpe, which they fed and brought
up for the honour of the Bishop. Now whereas the said
Gmons bare a great spite and nialice to the Consul of the
dty whofse n»me was Hermannus Gryn, they invited him
344
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
one day very kindly to dinner under colour of friendship,
and when he came to their house, shewed him this young
Lyon, whome they kept hungry without meate some two
or three daies before, and so forced him unawares and
fearing no such matter, to approach neerer to the Lyons
denne then it was fitte for him. Presently after this the
Canons conveighed themselves out of the roome, and hav- [p. 621.]
ing shut the dore waited without, still expecting when the
Lyon would devoure the man. But the Consul being a
man of a notable courage and stout spirit, when he sawe
that he was by the treachery of tnese lewd Prelates
brought to these extremes, either to be devoured by that
meralesse and fierce beast, or to fight manfuUy for his
life, did put on a valiant resolution, verif ying that speech
of Virgil,
•Audentes fortuna juvat
Clapped his cloake about his left hand which he boldly
thrust into the Lions mouth as he came gapins; towards
him, & with his right hand slue him, & so finaUy by this
meanes escaped free from danger. Afterward he sent
OfiScers for the two Canons with commandement to
apprehend them, and to see them incontinently hanged.
Which was accordingly performed. Having now men-
tioned this remarkable history of this valiant Colonian
Champion (the like whereof I never read or heard of,
savinjg^ Sampson, Daniel the Prophet, King David,
Benaiah one of Davids three Worthies, Captaine Lysma-
chus in the time of Alexander the Great, and one of our
En^lish Kinges Richard the first surnamed Cor de Lyon)
I wiU now at length after so long an introduction adde the
second inscription which is this.
Flavio Valerio Constantino Max. Aug. P. F. Constantii
F. Imp. invicto quod ad immortaUtatem Impcrii R.
gloriam ac limitis summam utiUtatem et
ornatum factu diflScilem lapideum pontem in
*^aei. 9.
345
CORYArS CRUDITIES
perpetuiun exerdtui cum liberet adversus Francos
ne in Galliam transirent. ipse heic
utramque Rheni ripam Agrippinensem quipp^ Frand-
Conjungendo mimiens impositoquasiflumimin [camque
hostes jugo construxerit S. P. Q. Agrippinensis.
In another front that looketh towardes the East these two
histories are written.
[p. 622.] First this.
Imcriftms C. Julio Cscs.
wr Mr Edst Quod Ubiorum Principes, Senatum, civitatemque eorum
-^^ Transrhenanam Amplam atque florentem finitimaSueoruin
gente longi maxima Germanorumque omnium bellicosis-
sima injuriis belbi et obsidione pressam in amidtiam
fidemque S. P. Q. R. receperit, et exercitu Romano p
geminatos pontes Sublidos k se perquam celeritir con-
lectos, ex Treviris trans Rheniun in ubios Cn. Pompeio
et M. Crasso Cos. traductos liberarit, Senatus popuiusque
Ubiorum,
Next this.
C. Octavii Caes. Imp. P. P. Augusti
^ternae memorie.
Ob Prindpes, Senatum, populumque Ubiorum ejus aus-
pidis ex vetere transrhenana sede in hanc dteriorem
Rheni ripam per M. Agrippam generum,
orbe terra marique pacato
foslicitir traductos
Senatus Populusque
Ubiorum.
In the westerne fi-ont these two histories are written.
First this.
Imp. Csesari F. L. Justinian P. F. Aug.
346
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
Gratis testande apud Foederatos Quiritibus Agrippinen-
ses preclaris olim juris Italici propter perpetuam in
Rom. Imperiiun fidem beneficiis donatos, ideis
fortissimus religiosissimusque Imp. Uni-
verso etiam legum corpore ad amplio-
rem justitise reique publicse toti-
us orbis reformands cultum
k se renovato, consignarit.
S. P. Q. Agripp.
Next this. [p. 623.]
Imp. Caes. Maximiliano Austrio Ferd. f. Philippi N.
Maximiliani.
Pronep. Frid. Abnep. Augusti Caroli v. Imp. Genero
Cum Otto primus Cognomento Magnus Imp. Germanise
insigniores Civitates ac Coloniensem imprimis liberas
fecisset, & qui eum sequuti sunt antiquis conservandis,
novis insuper privilegiis eam ornarint auxerintvi. Tu
ver6 potentissime Imp. omnium anteriorum Caesarea
authontate plenissime ea confirmaveris, pacem publi-
camque quietem patrise pater difilicillimo rerum statu
paraveris, ea propter grate mentis instinctum numini
majestatique tuse cujus stirps longa antiquaque Impp.
serie consurgit, et invicta virtus sola pietate superata est.
S. P. Q. Agripp. hanc tabukm aere publico devotus col-
locari jussit. CIO. 10. Lxxii.
Under these histories round about the three fronts, the
heades of the twelve first Romane Emperours to Domi-
tian, are carved with their titles round about them written
in gold. The lower part of this Praetorium is adorned L^uirfartof
with seven very beautifuU arches, whereof five are made ^ ^Moms.
in one rowe, and two at the sides. At the toppe of the
fix)nt, even in the middle of the same, the image of justice
is advanced in milke-white stone, with a sword in one hand
& a payre of scales in an other. At the ends of the toppe
the armes of the city are curiously presented, viz: the
Lyon and the Griphin, and betwixt them their scutchin,
347
CORYArS CRUDITIES
which is a golden helmet. At the toppe of all, the Em-
perours armes the blacke spread eagle is erected, adoraed
with a golden Crowne, in regard the dtie is imperialL
wirsiiy of Now I wiU make some short mention of their Univer-
^S^' sitie. For there is an Universitie in this citie: whidi
was instituted in the veare 1388. under Pope Urban. It
624.] consisteth of three Colledges, whereof I saw the andentest,
and the Jesuites Colledge. But they are but metne
buildings in comparison of the noble Colledges of oor
famous English Universities.
I observed a pretty towne on the other side of thc
««c Rhene called Teusch, which though I was not at it, but
onely saw it afarre ofF, I will mention for two most
memorable matters that I have heard and read of it
The one is, that it is reported to have bene first inhabited
by andent Tuisco otherwise called Teuto (whom I have
before mentioned) the sonne of the Patriarch Noah by
his wife Arezia ; who being sent by his father into these
parts of Europe, made his residence in the same place,
which is said to derive his denomination of Teusch from
this Teuto. Howbeit, I will not confidently avoxich this
to be true, thou^h I depend upon the authority of a suffi-
cient author Sebastian Munster. Otherwise I will not
avouch it. The other, that there was an andent castell
built in that place by the Emperour Constantine, where
there lay a garrison of souldiers for the defence of thc
Citie of Colen. I am the sooner induced to beleeve this,
because it is verified by the testimony of Philip Melan-
thon, who writeth that there was a table found once in an
ancient Monastery of Teuch, wherein there was an inscrip-
tion that confirmed this matter.
I cannot write of any famous battels that have benc
fought neere this Citie, as I have done before of those by
Basil, Strasbourg, and Mentz: because I have neither
heard nor read of any. Onely I can say that it was oncc
much blemished by Attila King of the Hunnes, and a
long time after that by the Normanes in the time of thc
Emperour Lotharius the second, who did much edipsc
348
OBSERVATIONS OF COLOGNE
the glory of it, and defeced many goodly buildings at thc ,
same time that they sacked the towne o( Bonna, as I have
before written. But in steed of writing of worthy battels,
I will menfion two famous wights that once lived in this [p- 61 s]
citie, who by their excellent Martial discipline and re-
nowned victories, will be eternized in Chronicles of feme
till the end of the world. The one was Ulpius Trajan
that puissant Spaniard and the fourteenth Romane Em- Tteo/amim. j
perour, who being adopted by Cocceius Nerva to succeed """■"*"■
him in the Empire, was sent for to this citie of Colen,
where he was then Captaine or Lieutenant of a Romane
legion. The other was the victorious warrier and glorious
conquerour of the Saracens Carolus Martellus (of whom I
have before made mention in my notes of S. Denis) who
after the death of his fether Pipin was imprisoned in this
citie, being a yong man, by the meanes of his stepmother
Woldruda. But being by the mercifull providence of
God afterward released, he became the most fortunate
and valiant Martialist that was then in all the world.
Now were it expedient that I should make some rela-
tion of their magistrates & government. But I hope
thou wilt pardon me, although I cannot satisfie thee in
those affaires of policy. I would have thee consider that
I made my abode in Colen but two daies, During which
space I hope thou wilt say I was not idle.
Here at the conclusion of this history of Colen I will
briefly mention one notable thing that I saw in this citie,
besides all the rest before mentioned. It was my chance
to see the picture of our famous English Jesuite Henry ^«"7
Garnet, publikely exposed to sale in a place of the citie, T^"""
with other things. Whose head was represented in that
miracuious figure imprinted in a straw, as our English
Papists have often reported. A matter that I perceive is
vcry highly honoured by divers Papists beyond the seas.
Though I thinke the truth of it is such, that it may be
well ranked amongst the merry tales of Poggius the
Florentine.
Thus much of Colen.
CORYArS CRUDITIES
[p. 626.] T Departed from Colen in a boate downe the Rhene
X upon a Wednesday being the one and twentieth of
September, about two of the docke in the afternoone,
after I had made my aboade there two daies, and came to
a certaine solitary house nine miles beyond it, situate bj
the river side, aoout eight of the dodce at night, being
En^ accompanied with foure English men whose names weit
^!^!^^^ Peter Sage, and James Tower Londoners, William TasseD
a Cambndgeshire man. These three had bene at Frandc-
ford Mart. The fourth was one Richard Savage a
Cheshire man, that came then from the University of
Minvchen in Bavaria ; where he had spent some time m
studie. The two later of these foure proceeded in their
journey with me till we came to Flushing the farthest
towne of Zealand, where I was imbarked for England, &
there we parted companie. AIso there was another in
out boate, whose company I enjoied all the way betwixt
Mentz and Colen, that ministred great delight imto nie
with his elegant learning. His name was Christopher
Hagk, bome in Koningsperg the Metropolitan dtie of
Prussia, and a famous University. Also he was the sonne
and heire of the high Consul of the dtie. A sodable &
pleasant Gentleman, and one that had bene a traveller for
the space of a dozen yeares in the famousest regions of
Christendome, as Germany, France, Italy, England, Den-
marke, Poland, &c.
I departed from the foresaid solitary house about three
of the clocke in the moming the two and twendeth of
September being Thursday, and came to the town of
Rees in Cleveland about seven of the docke at night.
This dayes journey consisted of thirty miles. The first
DmuUorf. towne that I came unto was Dysseldorp a faire towne of
Cleve-land, situate hard by the Rhene, which is famous
for two things, the one a magnificent Palace bdonging to
[p. 627.] the Duke : the other the residence of the Dukes Court
here. I am sorry that I can speake so little of this Palace.
For I tarryed but a quarter of an houre upon the shore,
which shortnesse of time affoorded me no more leisure
350
OBSERVATIONS OF DUSSELDORF
then to survay after a superficiall manner some parts of
the outside only. Yet as Httle as I viewed it, I observed
it to be thc most sumptuous building of any dwelling
house that I saw in all the Netherlands. This Palace hath
one singular commodity belonging to it, For a part of
the Rhene is finely conveighed under it by certaine con-
venient vauhs made for the same purpose. The Duke of
this place is a Prince of great power and authority. For
his titles are these : Duke of JuHers and Cleve-land, and ^".^"f , \
Count of Ravensperg, and Ravestein. The grcatest part ' '
of these Dukes have been buried in the Colledge Church
of this towne of Dysseldorp, where I understand they are
honered both with sumptuous monuments and elegant
epitaphs. The religion of the * present Prince is Romish :
he married the daughter of the Duke of Lorraine. I
heard in the country that he wanted onc principall thing
to grace his Prlncely titles and ample dominions. For it
was generally reported that he had not that pregnancy of
capacttie as others have, A httle wtthout the towne wa!l
I saw a certaine instrument that is very frequently used J teautifik
in these parts, called a crane, which serveth for the draw- "'"'*•
ing up of vessels and such other things of any weighty
burden, to the land from out of boates. I doe therefore
name this instrument, because it was the most beautiflill
of that kinde that I saw in al Germanie.
When we were a few miles past beyond this towne, we
glanced by the towne of Duysburg situate in Cleve-land,
also hard by the Rhene. This towne is fiimous for con-
taining the bones of that worthy man Gerardus Mercator '
borne in a towne in Flanders called Rupetmunda, who by DaiiiurT.
the universall sufFrage of all the learned is esteemed the
most excellent cosmographer & mathematician (Ortelius [p. 6i8.]
only excepted) that hath flourished in the world these
thousand yeares. For he hath written such exact and
elegant geographical tables as wil! never sufFer his name
to be committcd to oblivion.
Betwixt Duysburg and the towne of Rhene Barkc I
• I roune the same Prince that wai thenfalive when I wai thcre.
Gfrartliu
MmaMr
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
observed the lamentable tokeas of the Belgicke watres
three Churches very miserably battered and sacked, whkb
was done by the souldiers of the Grave Maurice. About
a mile before I came to Rhene-Barke I saw a certaine towcr
Dinslaken. in the towne of Dinslaking in the Province of Cleve-kod,
the walles whereof are said to be of such an exceediog
thicknesse that no peece of Ordinance is able to pieite it,
but it will reverberate the buUet, be it never so grcit
For I heard it verycrediblyreported that theyare eighteeiie
foote thicke. Wben I came to Rhene-Barke, which is a
towne belonging to the Archduke Albert, and guarded fay
a garrison of his souldiers, there hapned this accid e n t ;
our whole companie was stayed from passing any farther
by certaine officers fbr the space of two houres, to our
great terror and amazement, in so much that we couU
not be sufFered to depart till we had been all convened
before the Govemor of the towne, who was a Spaniah
Gentleman, a man that used us more gradously tmui we
expected. For after a few termes of examination he gendjr
dismissed us. Here I saw one of their towers most
gprievously battered with shot, and many of their other
Duildings, which was done about a dozen yeares since by
the Grave Maurices souldiers. I heard most tragicall
Tm newes of two Englishmen in this towne. For it was
En^hmen reported unto me, that whereas two of them went into thc
kiUid, fjgij ^Q fight, the one being slaine by the other, he that
killed his fellow was condemned by the Govemor to
receive this punishment ; to be shot to death by a dozen
of his countrymen. And to be first tyed to a post ot
some such thing with a paper pinned upon his breast,
p. 629.] having a blacke marke in the middle. So this was ac-
cordingly performed. But the ofFendour was so stout-
hearted a fellow, that his countrymen were constnined to
discharge two or three voUeys of shot at him befbre thcy
could mroughly dispatch him.
After we were gone from Rhene-Barke, we passed by
^^'^^' the faure City of under Wesel, in Latin inferior Wesalia,
which is so odled for distinction sake, betwixt this and the
35»
OBSERVATIONS OF WESEL
higher Wesel before mentioned, in the Diocesse of the
Archbishop of Trevirs. This City is in Clevc-land (which
country was in former times inhabited by the ancient
Tenctheri mentioned by Cfesar and Tacitus) and is
esteemed the feirest city of the whole Province, though
the City of Cleve be indeed the Capitall, and hath the
principall name, in regard the Province hath her denomi-
nation from the same place ; howbeit, it is reported to be
inferior to Wesel. It was not my good hap to goe into it,
but only to passe by it, yet I perceived that it yeeldeth a.
most elegant shew afarre off by meanes of her lofty towers,
goodly walles, bulwarkes, and other statelv buildings both
publique and private. It is seated a prety way within the
land, and ferther from the Rhene then the other Rhenish
Cities and Townes are, even about some two fiirlongs in
my conjecture. There is a prety arme of the Rhene
derived unto it in a (aire channel that maketh a very com-
modious river called the Lippia, in which there lay a great
multitude of ships when I passed by it. For it is a City
of great trafficke, and very populous, as I heard.
fobserved a little beyond Wesel on the same side of
the Rhene that Wesel standeth, certaine trenches and
rampiers in an open field, where the renowned Grave
Maurice made his Rendevous with all his armie about
some dozen yeares since, when he battered the towne of
Rhene-Barke.
About some three miles from Wesel on the other side SaiBi Truyfn.
of the Rhene, I saw a faire towne called Saint Truyen,
but indeede I could see but a little part of the towne, [p. 630.]
saving their principall Church, which seemeth to be a
beautifriU building, This towne was once built upon a
hill not farre ofF, but being there wasted and destroyed
(fbr the ancient ruines of it are to be seene to this day) it
was afterward built in a plaine, even there where it now
standeth.
I arrived at fhe towne of Rces in Cleve-Iand about Rtti.
seven of the clocke at night, as I have before said. Of
my arrivall there I will report one memorable thing.
c ciii 3S3 2
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Whereas the gates of the towne were locked befote m
came thither, presently after our arrivall we made all the
meanes that might be to be admitted into the townc
But we were absolutely denied it a long dme. Wher^
upon we went into one of the ships that laj at the kej,
determining to take a hard lodging there au nieht upc»
the bare boordes. No sooner were we in the wip but I
beganne to cheare my companie as well as I couid wiA
Cm^^m consolatorie termes, and pronoimced a fcw veraes and
•ui tfVtr^' fragments of verses out ox Virgil, tending to an exhorti-
tion to patience in calamities, as:
* Quicquid erit, superanda onmis fortuna ferendo est.
And,
§ Per varios casus & tot discrimina renun
tendimus in patriam
And,
X ^Dabit Deus his quoque finem.
And the same hemistichiiun that I spake jojrfullie unto
my selfe, when with much labour and dimculty I was
come to the toppe of the first Alpine mountaine Aigube-
lette, as I entred into Savoy :
t forsan & haec olim meminisse juvabit.
A sympathitic But at last, thc Burgo-master of the towne being touched
BMrgmasur. ^j^j^ ^ certaine sympathic of our misery (having himselfe
belike at some time tasted of the like bitter pilles of ad-
verse fortune, according to that memorable speech of Dido
in Virgil :
[p. 631.] Non ignara mali miseris succurrere disco,)
was contented that the gates should be opened to admit
us into the towne, but first he sent two souldiers to us
with their muskets charped, to the end to examine us
what we were, and so after a few termes of examinatioD
«iEnei. 5. SMna. 2. { Ibid. tIbi<L
354
OBSERVATIONS OF REES
they kindly conducted us to our inne, and that to our
infinite comfort, For we were all most miserably weather-
beaten and very coid, especially I for mine own part, who
was almost ready to give up the ghost through cold. But
when we came to our inne we were exceedingly refreshed
with all things convenient for the comforting of distressed
travellers. This townc of Rees belonged to the Duke of
Cleve-Iand, and professeth the Romish religion as he did.
It hath but one Church, wherein I observed a wonderfull „_ '^J
multitude of Papistical images & pictures, amongst the
rest the images of St. Christopher and St. George of
Cappadocia killing the dragon, and another of that royall
Virgin the King of ^gypts daughter, whom he freed
from the serpent. In the Churchyard I saw an exceeding
company of stonie crosses infixed upon the graves of
them that have been buried there, in which their names
are written, and the yeare of the Lord wherein they died.
Which is a custome much observed in many places of the
Netherlands. The market place of the towne is very The marht%
faire, being two hundred sixe and twenty paces long, and ^**^'
five and fifty broade. For I paced it over. Also the
sides of it are adorned with two goodly rowes of bricke
buifdings, the ends whereof together with the sides are
beautified with battlements according to the feshion of
the German houses in divers other Cities and Townes, as
I have before mentioned. But they use not halfi; so much
those kinde of little windowes in the outside of the roofes
of their houses, as they doe in the cities of higher Ger-
many, as I have before spoken. This market place is
much graced with a faire towne house that standeth at [p. 631.]
the east end. I observed one thing in this towne which
I did not in any other towne in all Germanie, though I
understand it is very frequently used in many townes of
the Netherlands. For all the night a certaine fellow
walked about the towne, and once every houre winded a Hbuu seundid
horne. Thc like he did also hourely in the day time, wr a iBm.
and sometimes he sounded a trumpet from a certaine
place of the tower of the Church. I heard that this cus-
CORYATS CRUDITIES
tome is continually \ised in this towne : so that thcy gi?e
a certaine yearlie stipend to a fellow that executeth this
office. I made my aboade in Rees all day the three aod
twentieth of Septembcr being Friday, by reason that tlic
weather was so boysterous, and the Rhene so furioiis,
that there was no travelling^ upon the river without gittt
danger. But the foure and twentieth of September being
Saturday I departed therehence about sixe of the dodkt
Btnurkk. in the morning, and came to Emricke a faire towne of
Cleve-land sixe miles therehence and situate by the
Rhene, about nine of the docke the same moming. In
this towne I saw nothing memorable (fbr indeede that litde
time that I spent there I bestowed in the refection of mj
body, that I had no leisure to walke abroade) and there-
fore I will let it passe without any farther mendon but
only the name. I departed therehence about noone the
same day, and came about three of the docke in the after-
noone to the City of Nimmigen in Gdderland, being nine
miles beyond it. This dayes joumey was but fifteene
miles. In my joumey betwixt Emricke and Ninunigen
Cleve. I saw the City of Cleve, in Latin Clivium, the Metro-
politan of Cleve-land, situate afarre off from the Rhene,
a prety way up in the covmtry. It seemeth to be a faire
City. For it yeddeth a beautifuU shew afarre off. Also
I observed one very memorable thing about six miles on
this side Nimmigen, a certaine sconce in an island of the
Rhene called Skinkel-sconce. I heard that it is esteemed
[p. 633.] the strongest sconce of all Europe. It belongeth to thc
States, and standeth in a certaine little Island which was
converted to such an impre^able fortification by the rarc
invention of a certaine Dutchman whose name was
Skinkel, from whome the fort hath his denomination. It
hapned that this Skinkel was afterwards drowned in the
river Waell neere the city of Nimmigen. The sconce is
joyned to the land on one side by a wooden bridge.
But now before I begin to write of the dty of Nim-
migen, I will make some mention of the coundy wherdn
it standeth. The Latine name is Gddria, but the vulgar
356
OBSERVATIONS OF GELDERLAND
Dutch Gelderland ; one of the seventeen Provinces of i
the Netherlands, and one of the eight united Provinces
that belong to the States. In the East, it is bounded with
Cleveland : in the West with Holland & Brabant. In the
North with Frisland & a creekc of the German Sea. In
the South with the country of Julia. It is said that the
whole Province is so plaine, that there is not as much as
one hill of any note to be seene in it. Againe, all this
plain is so exceedingly fiirnished with abundance of wood,
that there are few vacant places unwooded. Besides it is
esteemed so fertile a Territory, that it bringeth forth all
manner of commodities whatsoever, saving wine. For
two thinges it is very memorable. For the admirable
store of corne that it yeeldeth, and the goodly pastures and j
meadowes for fetting of Cattel. For the which it is so i
tamous, that sometimes leane cattell are sent hither to '
grazing from the farthest confines of Denmarke. Also it
is well watered with these three famous Rivers, the Rhene,
the Maze, and the Wael, and so populous that it containeth
twenty two walled townes, and three hundred villages.
The ancient inhabitants of this country, many yeares before
the incarnation of Christ, and after, were called Sicambri,
which are mentioned by Csesar and Tacitus : and they
were so called either from a Queene called Cambra (as
Munster writeth) or rather (as learned Peucer affirmeth) [
quasi Sec Cimbri, that is, the Cimbri which dwelt necre
tne sea.
Some are of opinion that the ancient Menapii mentioned
by Cjesar did once inhabite this Province. But 1 differ
from them. For I take the Menapii to be those that
inhabiced the Territory about the city of JuUacum com-
monly called Gulick.
My Observations of Nimmigen.
THis Citie hath three names, in Latine two, Neomagus Nimegutn.
and Noviomagus. But the vulgar name is Nim-
migen. It is the Metropolitan of Gelderland. And is
of that antiquity, that it was built about 582. yeares before
357
I
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
the incarnation of Christ by the andent Sicambri. It is
situate neere the river Wahalis commonly called the Waell,
which is one of the three mouthes of the Rhene wherewith
he exonerateth himselfe rartly into the Ocean, and partlj
into the river Meuse. The Emperor Charles the Great
was so delighted with the situation of this city that he
did often keepe his Imperiall Court here, & built a very
magnificent palace in the same, which stood a long time
after his death, till the furious Normans invaded the Citf
in the time of the Emperour Lotharius the second» wbo
utterly destroied that palace with many other buildings
TkeMorket of the City. The streets are very faire, espedally one
'^^'* amongst the rest, which is the same that leadeth up to the
market place from the gate neere the river WaeU at the
entrance of the towne. But this streete is very uneven,
being a continuall ascent till one doth enter the market
place. Againe it is much graced with two ^oodly rowes
of beautiml buildings on both sides, being built all with
bricke, and garnished with batdements, according to the
LP' 55'J German forme of building, as I have before often mcn-
tioned. Their market place is very faire and spacious,
paved all with bricke, and adorned with statelv buildings
on every side. A little beyond their market place is their
principal church. You enter a pretty church before you
come into the Churchyard, over the gate whereof these
two sentences are written in golden Tetters.
Concordia parvae res crescunt, discordia
magnae dilabuntur.
Which sentence is taken out of Salust. The other
Beata Civitas cujus Dominus spes ejus. 1606.
Tki Ckurck. The Church it selfe is a very faire building, and is decked
with many beautifull and great tables placed upon the
walles in divers partes of the Church, wherein are writtcn
sentences of Scripture in golden letters. Also it is beaud-
fied with a faire paire of Organs which have the blacke
Spreadeagle the Emperours armes in it, in regard the Citie
3S8
OBSERVATIONS OF NIMEGUEN
is imperiall. Hard by the Church there is an ancient &
magnificent building, which l think in times past was a
religious house. But now I understand it is converted to
a schoole. Upon one side whereof towards the Church
are tenne buttresses, and in each space betwixt every couple
of them is written one of the tenne Commandements all
of them being comprehended in as many Latin verses.
Likewise under this schoole there is a roome reserved for
the bestowing of munition. The Pra;torium or rather T6e Setun \
the Stadihouse (for so in all the CJties & townes of the W«"-
Netherlands doe they call a Senate house, the word being
compounded of Stadt, which in the Dutch tongue signifieth
a towne, and house) is a very ancient & stately place, the
front whereof is graced with many fiiire images. At one
side of the towne neere to their key I observed an ancient
Castell built with bricke, and invironed with a faire wall.
Besides all these ornaments of the City already mentiooed,
there is one thing more that doth specially erace it. Even
a faire front of building at the entrance of the city before [p. 636.] :4
you enter the first gate. Which front or series extendeth
it selfe in a goodly leugth, and ministreth a notable orna-
ment to that part of the city. The City is subject to the
Empire, as I have already said (though indeed at this day
it bee principally under the dominion of the States) unto
which it payeth the least tribute of any imperiall City -^ itrangt
whatsoever. For that which they pay is nofhing but a '"'"''■
glove full of gunnepowder that they send once every yeare
to the city of Aquisgranum otherwise called Aken, accord-
ing to an ancient custome that they have observed these
many ycares. The religion of the city is wholy Protestant.
It is much given to traffique, and inhabited by many
wealthy Merchants. When I was in Nimmigen, therc
was a great garrison of soldiers planted there that consisted
of three thousand men of armes, who did continually
watch and ward for the defence of the City. Againe this
great company was divided into twenty other lesser com-
panies, whercof each contained one hundred and fifty
soldiers, of which three were Englishmen,
359
CORYAT^S CRUDITIES
In this dty was borne one famous learned maa, wbaai
for his great learning sake (though indeed he were an
PeurCamsus. Arch-papist) I will name, even Peter Canisius. He was
the fit^t Jesuite of Germany, and chosen Provinciall of tlie
rest of the German Jesuites by Ignatius Lovola himadfe
that Spanish soldier and first founder of the Jesuiticali
family. After which time in Rome, Sidlie, and in diven
Universities of Germany, espedaliv Ingolstad, hee was
publike reader of Divinity, & lastiy at Friburg a &yre
city of Switzerknd, where he died the seventy seventfa
yeare of his age, and there lieth buried.
Thus much of Ninunigen.
[p. 637.] T Observed certaine things both in this Citie of
X migen and in other townes of the Netherlands,
I could not perceive in any place of high Germany. For
it is their custome in the Innes to place some few peeces of
browne bread hard by the guests trencher, and a little white
EaAngauums loafe or two. In many phures also at the b^nnin^ of
in thi dinner or supper they bring some mardemasse beefe (i^raich
NetkirloHds. Qyxstomt is uscd also in some places of the Grisons countrie,
as I have before mentioned) and a good pesde of bacon to
the table, before they bring any other thing. This I
observed at Colen, Rees, and other places : at the ende of
the meale they alwaies bring butter. One of their
customes I much disliked, that they sit exceeding long at
their meales, at the least an howre and haife. And very
seldome do they go to supper before seven of the docke.
In most piaces betwixt Coten and the farther end of the
Netherlands even till I came to Vlyshingen conmionly
cailed Flushing the farthest towne of Zealand, I observed
Drinking that thcy usuafly drink beare & not Rhenish wine, as in thc
^^- higher parts of Germany. For thcy have no wine in their
country. This custome also I observed amongst those of
Cleveland, Gelderland, and Holland, that whensoever one
drinketh to another, he shaketh his fellow by the hand,
and whensoever the men of the country come into an
Inne to drink, they use to take a tinnen tankard fuU of
360
OBSERVATIONS OF GELDERLAND
beere in their hands, and sit by it an howrc together, yea
sometimes two whole howres before they will let their
tankards go out of their hands.
I departed from Nimmigen about eight of the clocke in
the morning the fivc and twentieth of September being
Sunday and came to a fkire towne in Holland called
Gorcom situate by the river Waell, about sixe of the clock
at night. This daies journey was foure and twentie miles.
One thing I will here speake of the river Rhene that I
have not before mentioncd, that whereas he descendeth pp, 638.]
prono or secundo cursu in all that long space betwixt the
citie of Basil and this river of Waell, into the which
togelher with two more that I have already named, he
dischargeth himselfe : all barkes or boates that come downe
thus far, do goe very easily, because it is with the streame :
which is the reason that all passengers which dcsccnd do
pay but a sraall price for thcir passage ; but on the con-
trary side all that ascend doe strive very painfiiUy against
the streamc. So that all thcir vessels are drawen by
horses with great might and maine. For this cause all
passengers that ascenQ into the highcr parts of Germany
doe pay much more for their carriage than those that
dcscend.
In my journey betwixt Nimmigen and Gorcom I passed
by two pretty townes of Gelderland, situate by thc rivcr
Waell, whereof thc first is called Tiel, which is about Tie/.
twelve miles bcyond Nimmigen ; thc second Bommcl, Bammel.
which is sixc mites beyond Ticl. This Bommel is the
ferthest frontier towne westward of Gelderland, and
mcmorable for onc thing. For I saw a great buUct sticke
in the Tower of thcir Church, even about the toppe, which
was shot by thc enemj' in the ycare 1574. which figures
(1574) arc subscribed in such grcat characters under the
buUct, that a man may vcry plainly discernc thcm aiarre
off. From Bommel to Gorcom it is sixe mUes. Also I
observed another towne opposite unto Gorcom on thc other
side of the river, caUed Worcom.
Seeing this townc of Gorcom is in Holland, I will speake
361
Boati dfawn
i^ the Rhine
!
CORYArS CRUDITIES
a little of the country in which it is situate, befere I make
Cmm/ry 0/ any more mention of the towne it selfe. This countrjr
HdiMd. ^^^ heretofore called Batavia, and the inhabitants Batavi,
which are mentioned by Caesar and Tacitus. They were
in times past accoimted a very sottish & foolish peopk^
even as the Boeetians were amongst the ancient Graecians.
But in this age they deserve not to be so esteemed. For
. . , I they are as ingenious both for al manuary arts, and also
LP- 59'J|fof ^^ ingenuous disciplines, as any people whatsoever
in ali Christendome: which a man that tiveth amongst
them may easily perceive. The name of Batavia was
commonly in use til the yeare of our Lord 860. at what
time there hapned such an exceeding invmdation as over-
flowed a great part of the coimtry, and did so scowre and
wash the very bowels of the earth, that it hath bene ever
since o-ofKfxiStfi (as a learned author writeth^ that is,
holiow and spungie. For which cause the old name of
Batavia was afterward changed to Holland, which is so
cailed quasi hoUow knd, or quasi Hol-land. For hol in
the Flemish tongue doth signifie as much as our word
hole.
My Observations of Gorcom.
Gorkim. T Shall doe this towne more wrong then I have done to
X any other citie or towne of note in Germany, in which
I lay a whole night, and in no other respect but onely in
speaking so little of it, concealing the admirable beauty
tnereof. For I had not the opportunity to siuvey it
throughly according to my desire, oecause I came late into
it, & departed therehence something early the next mom-
ing. The sweetnesse of the situation, the elegancy of
their buildings, the beauty of their streets, and all things
whatsoever in this town, did wonderfuliy delight me, m
so much that as soone as I entred into one of the longer
streets, me thought I was suddenly arrived in the Thes-
salian Tempe, or the Antiochian Daphne. For indeed it
is a most elegant and sweet little towne, situate in a plaine,
hard by the goodly navigable river Waell.
362
OBSERVATIONS OF GORKUM
And I observed some of their streets to be pjassing
beautifiili, botb for breadth and length. And they are Srreeii paved
much graced by the fayre bricke pavier. For every streete "' '
is very delicately paved with bricke, which is composed
after that artificiall manner that a man may walke there [p. 640.]
presently after an exceeding shower of raine, and never
wet his shooes. The buildings are all of brick, of a goodly
heigth, and an exxellent uniformity in most of the streets,
the toppes rising with battlements. I observed that these
kinde of prety buildings are of a just correspondency on
both sides of the streets, which doe minister notable beauty
to the towne. Their market place is very spacious and
neatly paved with bricke like to the streets. At one side
whereof there is a faire Stadt-house adorned with a beauti-
full turret, from the toppe of which I heard it credibly
reported by a Gentleman of good note, a man may plainly
perceive in a faire day two and twenty goodly walled
townes, together with many faire villages and Gentlemena
Palaces in the country. At their docke or key which is
neare to one of their bridges, I observed a great company
of prety ships and barkes also. Another of their dockcK 1
hath a faire bricke walke hard by it, without the gate of
which walke I observed a certaine wooden image which
presenteth the figure of a man as farre as the breast. This
image is erected as a marke or bound to the end that no
forraine barkes or other vessels may passe beyond it, which
is lawfuU for those only of the same towne and none else,
The religion of the towne is Protestant, For it belongeth
to the States.
I departed from Gorcom about seven of the clocke in
the morning the sixe and twentieth of Scptember being
Munday, and came to the towne of Dort twelve miles Donireeit.]
beyond it about ten of the clocke the same morning. In
this space I observed one speciall fhing. On both sides of
the river Waell I saw a great company of little castels or
Forts not above halfe an English mile distant asunder,
which they call Ridouts, wherein presidiarie souldiers do
lie for the defence of the country, fifty persons or there-
363
CORYATS CRUDITIES
about in each. The like I observed alao betwixt
Nimmigen and Gorcom. I heard that this was the
[p. 641.] occasion of building these Ridouts : because the enemie
was wont heretofore to invade the States territories io
the night time, and to take some GentlemAn or ^eciaU
man prisoner, and to keepe him captive till he ransomed
himseUe with a great siunme of money. Hereupon fer
the security of me coimtry, the States thought mod to
|erect these little Ridouts. I ^bserved another thinfi; aiso
|betwixt Gorcom and Dort that moved great compassion in
Chwrckis ime. For I saw many Churches halfe drowned, all the
uuder waiir. / upper part of the tower appearinfi^ very plainly above the
water. There were heretotore faire Parishes beloi^ing to
these Churches, which were utterly defaced with the
mercilesse furie of the angrv God Neptime aknost two
^ 'ed yeares since, as I wil hereafter more pardcularly
dedare, so that there is not the least token of them to be
seene at this day. Moreover I saw a faire Castell drowned
a little on this side Dort, which in former times belonged to
a noble man of the country. It was seated in a faire towne,
which hapned to be so overwhehned with v^ater at the
same time, that the sea did so loose his raines of liberdr
to the destruction of the other townes, that there remayneth
not the least stone thereof to be seene, saving only a part
of the foresaid Castell that doth now belong to the towne
of Dort, by which they enjoy certaine priviledges.
My Observations of Dort.
THis City in Latin is called Dordraciun, but the
common word is Dort, and some doe call it Dordrecht.
It is a very famous, opulent, and flourishing towne, and
memorable for many things, especialiy one above the rest
Dordrecht the which is worthy the relation. For it is cailed the Mayden
^^^«^«9 y city of Holland, ^in which respect it may be as properly
r ^ *i called Parthenopohs, as Naples is in Italie, and Mayden-
burg in Saxonie) and that for these two causes. First,
because it was built by a Maide, but none of the Citizens
could tell me either the name bf her, or the yeare of the
364
OBSERVATIONS OF DORDRECHT
Lord when the foundation was laid. Neither indeede can Oon/refit '
l findc it in any historian that hath written of the HoUand- ^"jt^^ "
ish Cities. But certaine it is that a Virgin was the first
founder of it. For a monument whereof they have
pictured a beautifull Virgin in lively colours according to
the fiill proportion of her body, over the gate neare to
their haven at the first entrance into the towne. Which
picture is adorned round about with the armes of the
principall femihes of HoDand. Besides, for a farthcr testi-
mony of this mattcr thcy use to stampe the figurc of a
maide upon one of thcir coyncs that is calJed a Doit,
whereof eight goe to a Stiver, and tcn Stivcrs do makc
our English shilling. Secondly, because almighty God
hath privilcdged this towne with such a speciall fiivour
and prerogative, as no City or Towne that I ever read or
heard of in all Christendome, saving only Venice. For
it was never conquered, though all the circumjacent Cities
and townes of the whole territorie of Holland have at
somc timc or other beene expugned by the hostJle force.
Thc situation of it is very pleasant. For it standeth in a
prety island being invironed round about with foure rivers Situation^
that make a confluent, which are the Mosa, the Wacil, ^»"^'"«ic ^
the Linga, and the Merva ; according to a prety distich
that I have read of the same rivers, wnich is :
Me Mosa, & Wahalis, cum Llnga Mervaque cingunt,
Eeternam Batavse Virginis ecce fidem,
But if I should relate how it came to passe that this plot
of ground was first converted to an island,
•Quis talia fendo
Myrmidonum Dolopumve, aut duri miles Ulysses
Tcmperet k lachrymis?
For indecde it is a most lamentable and tragicall mattcr to [p. 64,3.]
be spokcn, and such a thing as cannot but move grcat
commiseration. For whereas a part of it was evcr joyned_
to the maine territorie of Brabant, till the yeare of 01
Lord 1420. it hapned that these foure foresaid rivers
CORYArS CRUDITIES
BratsMt
immmJ^^ J hm
1420.
Mtnt bmlt by
tke Earl of
LeicisUr,
[p. 644.]
together with a part of the sea, did that very yeare upon
the seventeenth day of April breake up their repacula,
their bounds within the which they did ever soDcrly
containe themselves till then, and made such a wofuU
inimdation in the covmtry, that I never read of the like
in Christendome since ^^^ PT"^^]! ^tMly^"lC jjr ^^^ ^'"^
of the Patriarch .NQah. rot they overwhelmed sixteene
talre Townes : some write there were no lesse then thrcg-
score and ten of them drowned. And they
p at the least a hundred thousand persons with al
goods, cattels, and whatsoever else. The pittifuU tokens
whereof I saw in divers places of the coundy thereabout,
namely certaine towers of Churches appearing above the
waters, which belonged to those Parishes that were
frequently inhabited with people till the time of that
delug^e.
The buildings of this Towne, both publique and private,
sacred and civill are very beautifuU, being biiilt all with
bricke, and garnished with those kind of prede battk-
ments that are so much used in the Batavian Cities.
Their streets also are of a notable len^h and breadth,
in number many, and paved with bncke as those of
Gorcom.
Besides other publike buildings of the towne I visited
their mint, which was built by our fkmous Elarle of
Leicester, at the front whereof the Emperours armes arc
erected : above the which this word is written in golden
letters, Moneta. And againe under that, Divo Carolo 5.
Csesari. Likewise there are eight Latine sentences written
upon the front : foure on the one side of the armes, and
as many on the other. This is the first. Pax & tranquilla
libertas. The second, Nomen pacis dulce est. The tnird,
Pecunia vincere speciosum non est. The fourth, Pecunia
mater beili. The foure on the other side are these. The
first, Paci semper est consulendum. The second, Paa
sublata leges esse non possunt. The third, Omnia pecunia
effici possunt. The fourth and the last, Pecunia effectrix
multarum voluptatiun. After this I sawe a beautifull
366
OBSERVATIONS OF DORDRECHT
Palace called the Doole, which was likewise built by the Thi Palace.
Earle of Leicester: it is a very magnificent building, in
which the Grave Maurice his Excellencie doth use to lie
whensoever he is commorant in Dort. Also there is
an other feire house wherin his Excellencie doth sometimes
repose himselfe, which is the signe of the Peacocke. In
that place lay Marquesse Spinola the General of the Arch-
dukes Armie, when he came thither from the Hage, a
little before my comming to Dort. Their Stadt-house is 1
a very iaire building of a goodly height, and built all with
square stone, which is rarc to bee seene in Dort, Therc
are foure Churches in thc towne, whereof two belong t
the Citizens; of which one is the feirest of them sll,
building that seemeth to be of great antiquitie, but adorned
with no worthy Monuments or Antiquities: onely it hath '
faire Tables hanged upon divers Pillars, wherein are *
written sentences of holy Scripture, like to those that I
sawe in the great Church at Nimmigen. The third
Church belongeth to the Englishmen, the fourth to the
French. Out of those foure Rivers that inviron the ^'"3 '^
Towne round about, and make it an Iland, there are some '* ""'
pretie armes derived into the Towne, which doe make
certaine inferiour rivers that are very commodious to the
inhabitants. Over one of them that runneth through the
middle of the towne, there are many pretie Bridges, but
two especially very feire. Whereof one is of Timber, the
fairest woodden Bridge fhat I saw in Germany, saving that
of Heidelberg. For it is so broad that three Cartes may [p. fi+s-ll
passe joyntly together over it. On both sides of this
bridge there lyeth great abundance of shippes. The other
is or stone, the edges whereof are finely rayled with yron
rayles contrived in curious workes.
For traffique I have heard that this towne doth more F&uriiihg
flourish then any town of all HoIIand, saving famous "'"^-
Amsterdam. And the Merchants of the towne are said
to be very wealthy. For heere is the principle Staple of
HoIIand for all manner of Wines, especially thc noble
Rhenish Wine, from whence it is afterward transported
367
CORYArS CRUDITIES
into divers remote reeions, as to Enffhnd, &c. But the
greatest part of it being first sophisticated in I>ort with
their &c confections.
Mmmary fhe manuary trades of al sorts in this townc are oom-
^^' mended for excellent. It was garded with five companies
of presidiary soldiers when I was there» wherec^ one was
English. For the Leager (this is the name of the States
armie which doth use in the time of warres to lie abroad
in the fieldes) was dissolved when I was in HoUand, by
reason that there was a truce betwixt the Aichduke and the
States, and it was distributed into many severall com-
panies that were planted abroad in divers cities and townes
for the common ^ety of the country.
What excellent men finr the omaments of lcaming this
towne hath bred I doe not remember, savine one whose
Gulielmus name was Guliehnus Lindanus, who flourished about some
• forty yeares since. A num in his kinde very fiunous,
though indeed a Papist. In this towne of Dort he was
borne, but he spent the greatest part of his life afterward ixi
Ruremunda a City of (^derland, whereof he was bishop.
This man also hath commended his name to posterity
by his manifold workes, especially theologicall, as other
learned men whome I have named in my description of
P g ^. some of the German Cities.
^' ^ '"^ Having now related some of the principall thinges of
this noble towne, I will condude my observations thereof,
partly with mention of their religion, which is the Pro-
testant. For Popery is deane exterminated out of the
towne; and partly with that memorable elofi^ivun that is
commonly attributed unto it by all those that know it
well, that it is the very Garden of HoUand.
Thus much of Dort.
FRom this towne I once resolved to have directed mj
journey to a certaine memorable place not fiure there-
hence that I might have commimicated one notable thing
&nr€p €¥ irfHxrdlfKtfi fiepei^ by way of over-plus, to my friends
& country as weU as the rest, yea such a thing, as is the
3«
OBSERVATIONS OF LAUDUN
most monstrous and prodigious matter that was in any
place of the whole world since the creation thereof. But
my resolution was htndered by a certaine sinister chance.
Yet [ will make some relation of the matter as I have not
only heard, but also read it in a good author. Though
surely I feare least many will deeme if a meere exorbitant i
digression to write of those things either by reading or
report which doe not fall within the compasse of my
travels. There is a Monument extant in a certaine Mon-
astery called L,audun neere the famous university of Mtmaiierj ^
Leyden in HoUand, where a certaine Countesse called """
Margarite was buried, who was the wife of one Hermannus
Earle of Henneberg, the daughter of Florentius the fourth
of that name, Earle of Holknd and Zeland, and the sister
of William King of the Romanes. This Countesse hapned
to be delivered of three hundred sixty five children at
one burden about three hundred and fourteene yeares
since, even just as many as there are daies in the yeare.
AIl which, after they were baptized by one Guido Suf- [p. 6+7.]
fragan of Utrecht, the males by the names of Johns, &
the females by the names of Elizabeths, died that very
day that they came into the world : and were buried all
together in one monument in the Church of the foresaid
Monastery of Laudun, which is to this day shewed (as I
have heard many worthy travellers report that were tbe
eie witnesses of the matter) with a most memorable Latine
inscription upon it, together with two brasen basons
wherin all fhose infants were baptized. This strange
history will seeme incredible (I suppose) to al readers.
But it is so absolutely and undoubtedly true as nothing
in the world more, The occasion of which miraculous
and stupendious accident I will here set downe (seeing I ^ mimeiilm
have proceeded thus ferre in the narration of a thing that '>'"^""-
I have not seene) because it may confirme the stronger
belief in the reader. It hapned that a poore woman came
a begging to the foresaid Countesse Margarite, bearing a
twinne of young babes in her armes. But the Countesse
was so &rre from having any commiseration upon her,
C.C II 369 3A
CORYArS CRUDITIES
that she rather scomefully rejected her, affirminfi^ that it
was not possible shee should have those two chudren by
one man. The poore soule bein^ much vexed in spirit
through these injurious words of the Lady, pronounced
A himr such a bitter imprecation upon her, that she wished that
imfmatuM. God would shew a mirade upon the Lady, as well fbr a
due revenfi;e upon her that had so slandered her, as for
the testifjong of her imspotted honesty & chastity; she
wished, I say, that God would shew this mirade, that the
Lady might bring forth as manv children at one burden
astherearedaiesmthe veere; which indeed came to passCi
according as I have betore mentioned. For the Ladie in
the fbrtieth yeare of her age was deiivered of just so many
upon a saturda^ about nine of the docke in the moming,
in the yeare or our Lord 1276. The truth of this most
portentous mirade is confirmed not so much by that
[p. 648.] inscription written in a certaine table upon her tombe, as
by sundry andent Chronides of infallible certainty both
manuscript and printed. Pardon me I beseech thee
(curteous reader) for this my boldnesse in reportii^ matters
that were beyond the limits of my travels. Notwith-
standing I have thought good to mention it in this place
for a matter beyond all comparison remarkable of that
kinde that ever was in the world, being induced to the
commemoration of this history fbr these causes. First,
because I heard very frequent speeches of it in the towne of
Dort which I have last described, partly by Englishmen,
and partly by other strangers. Secondly, because the fame
of it had invited mee to have seen the place, if one
disastrous impediment had not crossed me. Thirdly,
because I am perswaded this history was never before
written in our English tongue, till the History of the
Netherlands was set forth in English since my arrivali in
England from beyond the Seas, by that worthy traveller
andthrise-worthy serjeant at Armes unto our Kinges most
excellent Majesty, and most faithfull attendant quondam
upon the right Worshipful Sir Edward Phillips lately the
most illustrious speaker of the Parliament house, and now
370
OBSERVATIONS OF HOLLAND
Maister of the Rolles viz : Maister Edward Grimston.
Wherefore after this long digression I will now returnc
againe to the discourse of my foliowing travels.
I departed from Dort towards Zeland in a barke
the seven & twentieth of September being Tuesday about
noone, and lay the same night in a hard lodging of my
barke upon the water, about fortie miles beyond it : in this
space I observed these things. I sawe a goodly Townc
called Zirixee, in Latine Zirza^a, situate in an Iland whosc
name is Scowen, on the right hand of my journey : this
Towne is commended for a beautifull place, But nothing
whatsoever hath so much graced it as the birth of that
admirable sweete Scholler, tnat worthy ornament of learn- tp- ^49-]
ing Levinus Lemnius a Physition, who hath purchased ^«"'"J"
both himselfe and his Countrey eternitie of praise by his ''""'"'
elegant Booke De occultis naturee miraculis, and other
excellent fruites of his ripe wit that are commonly read in
the world to the great benefit of the learned. In the same
Iland where Zirixee standeth, there is an othcr feire Towne
called Brewers Haven, and a Sconce called Bominec,
belonging to the States. On the other side of the river,
right opposite to Zeland, I observed two Ilands more,
whereot the one is called Tarnous, the other Targous.
But before I came towards those Ilands, I passed by a part
of Brabant where Bergenopzomc standeth a little within
the Iland, which is said to be a very strong Towne that
belongeth to the States. AIso I observed in this journey A piRjid
a great many high Towers in the water, which were here- ^W*'*
tofore Parish churches, and belonged to some of those
Parishes that I have before spokcn ofF, which were
drowned in the yeare 1420. I observed a speciall thing
in one side of the river as we passed forward in our
journey. Many Boores of the country laide a great deale
of strawe and earth uppon it at thc edgc of the bankc,
to the ende to preserve the banke, that the water may not
eate and devoure the earth, and consequently breakc into
the land to drowne it, as it hath donc heretoforc in many
other placcs thereabout. J
CORYATS CRUDITIES
I departed froin the foresaid place where I lay all night
upon the water, about seven of the dodce in the moming
the eight and twentieth of September beeing wednesday,
and came to a haven towne of Zeland called Armu, about
sixe of the docke at night. This daies joumey was nine
miles. The inhabitants of this Island were in former times
called Mattiad, which are mentioned by Comelius Tadtus.
As for the Island it selfe wherein this Towne, Middle-
borough, and Flushing stand, it is commonly called
[p. 650.] Walcheren. In this towne of Armu I sawe nothing
memorable but their Stadt-house. For it is but a littk
towne. Yet it is famous for one thing. For there al the
Ships that come from Dort do arrive, as in a safe station,
& therehence many a great fleete doth often iaunch fbrth
into the Ocean Sea.
I departed from this towne of Armu about seven of the
docke in the moming the nine and twentieth of September
FksUng. being thursdav and Michaebnas day, & came to Vbssingen
commonly cailed Flushing, a famous haven Towne of this
Island Zeland, about two of the docke in the aftemoone.
This dayes joumey was but five littie miles.
In my journey betwixt Armu and Vlissingen I passed
through the beautifuU Citie of Middleborougn in 2^1and,
which is about a mile beyond Armu. But I cannot write
the tenth part of it that this notable Citie deserveth. For
I employed those fewe houres that I spent in the dty
otherwise than in matters of observation. Yet that litde
which I did observe I will relate. For I will not do this
goodly Citie that wrong as to write so copiously of many
other Cities, and nothing at ali of her.
MiiUtteburg. Middleborough hath her denomination fi-om a Noble
Roman Consul called Metellus, who is said to have bene
the first founder of it. For some do call it in Latin
Metelburgum auasi Metellibur^um, that is, the towne of
Metellus. It is strongly walled, beautified with fiure
gates, goodly streets, and very statelv buildings of bricke
Kke to those of the townes of HoUand. Their Market
place also I observed to be a fayre and spadous thing, and
37«
l
OBSERVATIONS OF MIDDLEBURG
was exceedingly (requented with people rhe same day that
I was there. Likewise their Stadt-house is a very ancient Netaile
and beautiftill buiiding, bujlt all of free stone (which I *«^'V-
observed to be as rare in Middelborough as I did before in
Dort) and the front adorned with many goodly images that
yeeld a delicate shew. I sawe their exchange also, which [p. 651.]
is a very elegant little place, distinguished with laire
walkes, neere to the which there is a pleasant grove. I
visited likewise the house of our English Merchants, which
is a faire building, having delicate gardens and walkes
belonging to it. And I went to their feyrest Church,
which is graced with a curious clocke, and with two roonu-
ments of great feme. But it was not my hap to see eyther
of them. Whereof the one was of William Earle of IVWiam Earl
Holland and Zeland, and afterward King of the Roroanes, "ffj^^^
who being slaine by the Frisians about nine yeares after ''"
the beginning of his reigne, in the yeare one thousand
two hundred fifty five, his bones were solemnly buryed in
this Church about seven and twenty yeares after his death.
The other is of that rare Schollar and learned Writer
Adrianus Junius, who is iamous for many notable workes
that hee left behinde him as the true monuments of his
pregnant witte, especially his ample Dictionary consisting
of Greeke & Latine words. I observed also their Haven,
which is a very convenient place, and was the receptacle
of many goodly shippes when I was there.
Their religion is Protestant, answerable to that which
the reformed Churches of England and HoUand doe
professe.
Thus much of Middelborough.
My Observations of Vlyshingen commonly called [p- ^si.]
Flushing, but in Latin Flissinga.
THe situation of this towne is very memorable. For SitMtiena/ |
it is built in the forme of a pitcher, which is slender ^'^•"^"'S-
at both the endes, and wide in the middle. In regard
whereof the name of the towne is derived from the Di
373
CORYATS CRUDITIES
FkuBug h word Flessche, which si^ifieth a pitcher. For indeed he
J9rm$/a that shall righdy consider the forme of the building
fiu^. thereof, wiU say that it doth very neare represent thc
fashion of a pitdier. For I for mine owne part observed
the site of it, and found it verfr correspondent to die
mould of a pitcher, the endes being slender and the middle
long. Which is the reason that the inhabitants doe pre-
sent the figure of a pitcher in their flagges & banners that
are advanced at the tops of the mastes m their ships. The
towne is not great: yet verfr fiure, and beautified with
many stately ouildings, that are made all of bricke,
according to the rest of the Zelandish and HoUandish
cities. It is inhabited with many rich Merchants that have
within these fiswe yeares verfr much inriched themselves
J muMg by .fhe art of navigation. Their haven is verjr strong,
iarkgr. ^^ [^ jg ^ notable harbour of goodly ships. For I can
say more of Flushing then of any other haven towne that
I saw in my travels : that their haven contained such an
exceeding multitude of ships, as I could not see the like
in Venice it selfe, the Arsenall only excepted. For I heard
that all those tfaat I saw at Flushing were in nimiber at
the least two hundred.
TkiSuuithaus. Their Stadthouse, that was newly building when I was
there, is like to be a verjr magnificent worke. The fi:t>nt
being raised to a notable heigth, and adorned with many
[p- ^53-] fidre armes, scutchins, and ouier curious devices that doe
exceedingly beautifie the same. Here I sawe those birds
called Storkes that I have before mentioned in mj observa-
tions of Foimtaine Beleau.
FUuUag Xhis towne is garded with a garrison of English
^^T^^^^ Souldiers, whereof one (who was a Gentleman) I saw very
' martially buried that day that I came into Flushing, witD
a dolefull beating of many drummes, and discharging of
many volleys of shot. AII the companies of soulmers
in this towne are commanded by that right worshipfull
and most worthy Knight Sir William Browne, who is
Deputie Governour of this towne under that right
honourable and illustrious Robert Sidney Viscount Lisle.
374
OBSERVATIONS OF FLUSHING
I received a very spedal courtesie m this towne both of
the foresaid noble Knight, and of a certaine learned, godly,
and religious Minister Mr. Pots, who is the Preacher of
the towne {for it professeth the Protestant religion also as
welJ as Middleborough) for the which they have perpctu-
ally bound me unto them in all officious respects or duc
observance till I cease to enjoy this common vital breath.
Therefore tandem aliquando, with this thankfull cora-
memoration of their names (since I have not as yet any
other meanes to express my gratitude towards them, but
only by this remembrance of them in my booke) I here
adde ultimam coronidem, the full period and finall con-
dusion to my outlandish observations.
I made my aboade in Flushing ail Friday being the last
day of September, and departed therehence in a barke thc
first day of October being Saturday, about foure of the
docke in the afternoone, and arrivcd at the custome house ^irivaim ^
in London the third day of October beine Munday, about ^""^-
foure of the docke in the afternoone, after I had enjoyed
a very pleasant and prosperous gale of winde all the way
betwixt Flushing and London.
The distance betwixt Flushing and London is a hundred
and twentie miles,
The number of Miles betwixt Venicc and Flushing : in [p. 654.]
which account I name only some of the principall Cities,
as I have done before in the computation of the miles Number 0/
betwixte my native Parish of Odcombe and Venice. For "'^f l^tiwen
it is needlesse to name all the particular miles betwixt alJ Fi^Hi^g"
the cities and townes I passed through. Because it would
be a repetition of that which I havc ah-eadie done. ^^
Imprimis, betwixt Venice and the Inne before mentioned Tiiulefiti ^B
upon the toppe of the Mountaine Ancone, otherwise called '^iole journij.
Montane de St. Marco, being the farthcst bound of the
Venetian Signiorie Westward, . .174
Item, betwixt the Inne, and the City of Curia in ^^^m
Rhctia ^^H
CORYAT^S CRUDITIBS
Item, betwixt Curia and Zurich the Metropolitan
City of Switzerland 55
Item, betwixt Ziirich and Basil 40
Item, betwixt Basil and Strasbourg. • . . 80
Item, betwixt Strasbourg and Heidelbem* • 72
Item, betwixt Heidelberg and Fianckibrd. 67
Item, betwixt Franckibrd and Colen. 92
Item, betwixt Colen and Nimmigen in Gelderland. 54
Item, betwixt Nimmigin and Dort in HoUand. 34
Item, betwixt Dort and Flushing in Zeland. 53
The totali is .... 797
Againe betwixt Flushing and London. . .120
Againe, betwixt London and Odcombe. .106
The totall betwixt Venice and Odcombe. . 1023
The totali betwixt Odcombe and Venice as I
travelled over France is (as I have befcH^
written^ 952
The totall of my whole joumey forth and backe . 1975
[p- 655] T^He Cities that I saw in the space of these fivc
X Moneths, are five and forty. Whereof in
France five. In Savoy one. In Italie
thirteene. In Rhetia one. In Hel-
vetia three. In some parts of
high Germanie fifteene. In
the Netherlands
seven.
FINIS.
376
POSTHUMA
FRAGMENTA
POEMATUM
GEORGII CORYATI
SARISBURIENSIS,
Sacr^ Theologia Baccalaurei,
Quondam e sociis Novi Collegii in inclyta
Academia Oxoniensi,
Ac postea Ecclesias Odcombiensis in agro Somer-
setensi Ministri, ubi tandem Anno 1606.
extremum vitas diem clausit.
LONDINI,
Anno Domini 161 1.
I*
Serenissimo Principi Henrico Christiani Orbis
Tito, id est, humani generis Deliciis, Principi
,, WallijE, Duci Cornubise ac Rothsaias, Comiti
Palatino Cestrix, Equiti splendidissimi ordinis
aure» periscelidis, &c.
On sum nescius (Serenisslme Princeps)
nonnullos mihi objecturos, supervacaneura
To avpodSioinxTov opus me jam suscipere,
observationibus meis in regionibus exoticis
isla posthuma poematum Patris mei frag-
menta quse jam subsequntur, attexendo ;
nec deerunt fortasse aliqui nimis rigidi
censores, qui mordaculis suis sannis nomen meum per-
stringere atque sugillare non dubitabunt. Proinde Celsi-
tudini tuae rationes explicabo quibus fretus poemata ista
in medium proferre, & ex Cimmeriis illis tenebris quibus
multos annos tatitarunt, in lucem edere mihi visum est.
Primo, quoniam pater meus pia: memoriae Gcorgius
Coryatus paulo ante obitum suum de carminibus, quae
in juventute sua (Musis faventibus ac propitia Minerva)
contexuit, mecum colloqui subinde solitus est, rogavitque,
ut (si illi superstlti esse
Divum pater atque hominum rex
mihi indulgenter concederet) pauca poemata sua qua:
penes mc misse animadvertebat, tandem aliquando h situ
vetustatis eruerem, pra;Ioque mandarem. Secundo, quia
piurimi mei (piKofiaviToi amici, tum consanguinei, tum
ramiliares congerrones, qui patrem meum, (dum com-
munis hujus lucis usura fruebatur) medulUtus amarunt,
GEORGE CORYATS POEMS
& jam fato defiinctum nomen ejus gratissima quadam
recordatione commemorare solent, instanter precibus suis
me identidem sollicitarunt, ut posthuma ejus poemata
typis excudi curarem.
Quare cum patris voluntati, tum amicorum postulatis
morem gerens, Juvenilia ejus Celsitudini tuae dedicare
una cum itinerario meo ausus sum, Celsitudinemque tuam
humiUime oro ut sub S^enissimi nominis tui auspiciis
ista qualiacunque poemata in vulgus emanare patiatur.
Nec elogia quibus patris mei memoriam cohonestarunt
atque iUustrarunt duo celeberrimi scriptores, quorum
unus in Germania natus erat, alter in patria mea Anglia,
1*am tacebo. Hic nimirum Jacobus Middendorpius in
ibro quodam quem de totius orbis Academiis conscripsit ;
ille autem, scincet Joannes Casus Medicins Doctor; &
Coll^i Pivi Joannis Prscursoris apud OxDnienses quon-
dam socius, in el^ntissimo libro suo quem Speoilum
Mondium Inscripsi^ charissimi patris mei nomerhujus-
modi verbis citavit. Georgius Coryatus poeta Oxoniensis
ita quondam cecinit, & statim uterque ista carmina gus
subjungit
Et duo sunt totum Gymnasia nota per orbem,
Oxonium studiis florens, mihi dulcis alumna,
R^s opus; tuaque (illustris Rex Cantaber) sedes
Magnifice florens sacris Academia Musis.
Quae carmina quadraginta plus minus annis elapsis
cum plurimis aliis de descriptione Angliae, Scotias, &
Hyberniae, Serenissimae Reginae Elizabethae beatae me-
moriae (jam cum caelicolis in caelesti Hierosolyma vitam
angelicam agenti) nuncupavit. Sed ea cum duobus pene
miUibus versuum quos iv rij oKftij aetatis atque ingenii
sui composuit, elegantibus sane ac k viris eruditis non
parum laudatis, sive patris incuria, sive temporis injuria
partim interiere ac extincta jacent, partim cariosis chartis
adeo tineis edacibus corrosis sepeliuntur, ut omnis mihi
spes praecidatur uUam iUorum particulam in pubUcum
emittendi. Qjom vero jam conquisivi, & in unum quasi
3S0
THE EPISTLE DEDICATORIE
corpus coUegi, quum atiimo patris mei nomen ab oblivione
vindicandi hoc susceperim^ ut Manes ejus illud* poetse
usurpent,
Non omnis moriar, multaque pars mei
Vitabit Libitinam ;
Serenitatem tuam iterum enixissime obsecro, ut contra
virulentos Momorum morsus, qui dente Theonino aliorum
lucubrationes rodere solent, eadem mpoffinj^tivy ac pro-
pitio tuo patrocinio protegere clementissime dignetur.
Cdsitudini tuse
devotissimus deditissimusque
Thomas Coryatus Odcombiensis,
Peregrinans pedesterrimus.
*Honi. Qinnin. lib. 3. Od. 30.
[Exhortatio ad
3»!
6EORGE CORYArS POEMS
Exhortatio ad Serenissimam Anglis Reginam,
Dominam Elizabetham, sexto sui regni anno,
ut nubat.
OVirgo & Princepsy 6 Regis filia, Regis
Et soror, 6 Regis Uxor ut esse vdis.
Te tua forma, decus, virtus, pietasque, fidesque
Hoc rogitant, patriae ut perpetiare Pktrem.
Sic tibi sic poteris, patriae sic utilis esse :
Angelici in terris vivere posse rogant.
£n tibi sic poteris, patriae sic utilis esse
Non poteris : patriam prole beare potes.
Si potes, ereo vdis : Regalem sumito sponsum,
Sic tibi, sic patrise consule Virgo tusc.
£n Daemon satagit, stimulat Caro, Mundus adurit,
Sola potes tantis belligerare malis ?
Si modo sola potes, vestram sed respice gentem.
Ne miserum Satanas devoret ore e;regem.
Da deus hanc mentem, da nostra Pnnape dignum
£t regem et Prolem : caetera jam dederas.
Tuque tui Princeps regimen sic dirige regni,
U t post hoc regnum ccelica regna petas.
p
In effigiem Reginse.
lAUas, Juno, Venus, sophia, diademate, forma,
Corda, caput, vultus, imbuit, ornat, alit.
The English.
Pallas, Juno, Venus, with wisedome»
Crowne, and comely hewe,
Thy heart, head, face, endewes, adornes,
And deckes most fine to view.
332
6E0RGE CORYATS POEMS
Allusio ad illud Ovidii Metamorphoseosl Scripta
in dictum patris Penei ad filiam[ad
Daphnem. j Eandem.
SJEph pater dixit, Generum mihi filia debes
Saepi pater dixit, Debes mihi nata Nepotes.
Sic pater Henricus : Generum mihi filia deoes,
Longaque debetur posteritas Proavis.
Nata potes regnare ? potes sine compare vitam
Ducere ? & hac rara dote beata, mori ?
Ingenium, doctrina, fides ; huic consona doti
R^num, forma, decus, sinmila summa tibi.
Hisce tuo Patri non es virtutibus impar,
Major at ille un& est, & minor ipa Patre.
Quod talem Patri licuit te cernere rrolem,
Qualis adhuc Natse non datur uUa suse.
Sic minor & major» minor es tu, major at ille,
Tu minor : hoc partu major at esse potes.
Alia allusio ad eandem.
Dlxerunt olim : Rex & Regina beati,
At nunc plebs dicit, Tantum Regina beata.
O utinam possent (si sint pia vota) sonare,
Sunt cum Prole sua Rex & Regina beati,
Tunc essent omnes, simul omni ex parte beati :
Patria, Plebs, Princeps, Rex & R^ina beati.
De novem literis Reginas Nominis Elizabeta,
DIc cur literulas habet Elisabbta novenas ?
An Musas quod amet Elisabeta novem ?
Est ita, sed ratio subit hac tamen altera major,
Te Musae quod ament Elisabbta novem.
3S3
GEORGE CORYArS POEMS
^nigma ad eandem per eundem.
ANeKa dicat lo, solenni ex more triumphans,
virgo parit, nobis Elisabbta parit.
An tibi quae peperit virgo, peperisse videtur ?
Mater sola parit, virgoque nuUa pariL
Ai^lica sola suos sentit Respublica fcetusy
Concipit huic virgo commoda, virgo parit.
Prosopopeia ad Portam Palatii Episcopi Wintoni-
ensis, ut Reginse aperiatur ad illius ingressum.
GLara bipartitas aperito Janua portas,
Ut repetat Pnncros interiora domus,
Mox ea majori fiilgebit lumine dives
Quim micat Arctoo nobilis Ursa Polo.
Ante fuit foelix multorum nomine Ro^m,
Ut nunc est fbelix non tamen ant^ niit.
Nam si Marte, fide, doctrina, stemmate, forma
Clarior uUa foret, darior ista foret.
O nostri ut fuerit Cordis tam * Janua lata,
Intrares tectum (Cor puto dulce) meum.
^lste lepor refeitur ad nomen ejus Cor-yate. Posteriori sjllaba
scilicet yate, idem significante Anglic^ quod Latin^ janua.
3S4
6EOR6E CORYATS POEMS
Pro quinque minis tria verba scripta nomine
gratiarum actionis & valedictionis ad eandem
per eundem.
s
I mihi non parcis, non audeo dicere verbum :
At mihi parce precor, sed tria verba tibi.
NUBE
Quod scripsi spero, quod spero postulo, Nube,
Sic tibi, sic patrise consule Virgo tuse.
VIVE
Sic vive ut vivas, sic regnum dirige Princeps,
Ut tibi sit proles, quse tua regna regat.
VALE
Hoc tibi postremum dicetur carmine verbum,
Quod peto, quod rogito, quod precor, oro,
VALE.
De insignibus Anglise ad eandem in Anglise
descriptionem per eundem.
Hlnc Leo & inde Draco parmam qui sustinet, iste
Prudentes, validos denotat ille duces.
Qui paritir certant Domina sub Principe (cujus
Praslucent medio stemmata fixa loco)
Sustinuisse humeris Regalia Principis arma,
Ingenio iste suo, viribus ille suis.
[Pnefatio in
c. c n 385 3 B
6EOR6E CORYAT^S POEMS
Praefatio in librum Psalmorum, k Georgio Coryato
Latine translatum, ad Serenissimam Anglis
Reginam D. Elizabetham de variis carminum
generibus.
Math. i6.
TU Deus atque tui divina potentia verbi
Es mihi, Christe etiam, non mihi Papa
Petra.
Petrus erat Christi tantum firmissima Petra,
Et mihi Christe Petra es, & mihi Christe
Petrus.
Supra vel supir hanc sat erit si struxero
Petram,
Hanc statuit Dominus, noluit esse aliam.
Petram Pontifices non hanc statuere, sed
altram,
^dificabo igitur qukm potero super hanc
Ecclesiam mores, vitam, famamque fidemque
Nostram : Christe Petra es, non mihi Papa
Petra.
Porta cui triplicem gestans in limine mitram
Inferni custos praesidet assiduus.
Non huic vel duplici circundatus ense nocebit,
Praevaleat summi spesque fidesque tui.
Adversus Petram hanc sua tendunt retia
Papae,
lUam sed Dominus proteget usque Petram.
Sacras tuas Majestatis fidelissimus subditus
devinctissimusque scholaris Oxoniensis.
Georgius Coryatus.
Tu
Es
Pctrus,
Et
Supra
Hanc
Petram
.£dificabo
Ecdesiam
Nostram.
Porta
Inferni
Non
Pnevaleat
Adversus
lUam.
336
GEORGE CORYATS POEMS
Viridis Draconis Triumphus, in funere clarissimi
viri D. Gulielmi Herberti nuper Baronis Car-
difiensis, Comitisque Pembruchiensis, & regiK
Auls Oeconomi primarii, ad asternam tanti viri
memoriam.
ridante Dra-
Bpice Penbruchium specie ■
conem
Leclor, & auratum per colla virentia
Torquem,
Hamatosque ungues, oculosque, alasque
volucres,
Immanemque jubam, & formosos cor-
poris artus.
Hunc neque Phryxei custodem velleris olim
ColchiacK flevere nurus, neque Mala sororum
Servantem Hesperiis Alcides vicit in hortis.
Cynthius innumeris fixit Pythona sagittis,
Et tua servantem (Gradive) fluenta Draconem
Cadmes fixere manus : Hunc frangere nemo
Heroum, Divumve potest : non Aesone natus,
Non Jove, non profugas ab Agenore missus in oras.
Ipsa ade6 qus cuncta domat, legesque cruentas
Imponit rebus Mors implacabilis ortis,
Mors ipsa hunc solum superare nec ausa Draconem,
Nec fKJtuit ; nam cum terris superesse vetaret,
Inseruit ccelo : nunc illic fulgidus ardet,
Qui micat, & flexu voluentes dividit Ursas,
Aut ubi contortis Ophyuchia brachia spiris
Implicat, & longos ducit per inania tractus.
Solus enim soli didicit parere Leoni.
Hunc coluit, Regemque suum patienter adorans
Esse tulit : quem nec vis uUa, nex hosticus ensis,
Nec Jovis aEthereo disjectum fulmen Olympo
Fregit adhuc, hunc una sut cultura Leonis
Pcrdomuit, Dominique feros procumbere fecit
Ante pedes : fiilvum metuunt ita cuncta Leonem.
387
i
GEORGE CORYAT S POEMS
Sed nec inudlibus coluit tam grande tribunal
Obsequiis, ipsique adeo fuit utile tanto
Concessisse Duci, cujus tot martia gessit
Auspiciis, varias & fortia bella per oras.
Capta sub Henrid primum Bullonia ductu
Vulgavit rutilis Herberti nomen in armis :
Regia quo fulvi mens inclinata Leonis
Conspicuo viridem promovit honore Draconem.
Protinus & celsum miles conscende caballum,
Ense caput feriens, auratis (inquit) in armis.
Nec minus uxorem prasclari stemmatis Annam
Despondet Regina tuam Catharina sororem,
Par tibi, par iUi virtus, Par denique nomen.
Tres tulit ex ista virides celebresque Dracones
(Quot Leo Regalis magnos darosque Leones)
Henricum comitem, Eduardumque, Annamque teneUan
Junxit & hos vivens tsedis illustribus omnes.
Et nunc cum charis vivunt confortibus onmes,
Atque diu multos peragant foeliciter annos.
Jam Leo grandsevus vitales deserit auras,
Et charum catulis commendat voce Draconem.
Inde fuit R^;um, R^narumque per annos
Delitias multos, multo insignitus honore.
Octavo Henrico, Eduardo, Marias, Elizabethse,
Et patri & natis charissimus omnibus unus.
Nam simul Eduardus tener ille Leunculus Anglis
Prodit, ad acceptos aliquid Draco majus honores
Addit adhuc, multoque magis prorumpit in altum.
Rursus factus Eques magnusque Magister equorum.
Quid referam positis tot praslia gesta trophaeis ?
Tot spolia ? & ductos civili ex hoste triumphos ?
Ut vigili occiduos sedaverit arte tumultus ?
Horrendosque suo superarit Marte rebelles ?
Magnum opus, & multo quassitam sanguine laurum.
Hic sese in Gyros, & multa volumina torquens,
Terrificis altas quatiens dangoribus alas,
Claruit ante alios virtus generosa Draconis.
Hinc Baro Cardifios regali munere fasces,
388
i;
GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS
Pembnichiumque Comes titulis adjunglt honorem.
Proh dolor, Eduardus fato succumbit, & ejus
Protinus ad Mariam volvuntur sceptra sororem.
Jamque iterum in patrifE grassatur viscera ferrum.
Evocat innumeros funesta ad bella Viatus,
Armatamque manum Londini ad moenia ducit,
Prseficit huic bello, & rebus Regina gerendis
(Nam quid agat.') viridem (spes hsec fuit una) Draconem,
lUe suum partes virus diffundit in omnes,
Ille per insanos ruit imperterritus hostes,
Confunditque viros, vincitque capitque Viatum,
Quin aliud tractans Maria? sub nomine bellum,
^uintinos forti perrupit milite muros,
Contudit & sasvos pulchro certamine Francos,
Hispanus dum bella gerit : sic scilicet unus
Prsripuit cunctis omni in certamine palmam,
Nec dextram patulo frustri gerit ore cruentam,
Invictus, victorque potens. An segnior idem
(Elisabetha) tuos pugnasset miles in hostes,
Te nisi pace frui, tua mens, & qui tua servat
Regna Deus mallet: sub te quod vincere posset
Non habuit, seramque togam te ferre coactus
Edidicit regnante senex : neque pr£elia gessit
Ulla, nisi extremum hoc sasva cum morte duellum.
Quo tamen & victor (quod sazpius ante) triumphans,
Lxtus, ovans, Superum ad coslestia tecta recessit.
Apostrophe ad lUustrissimum Henricum Comitem
Penbruchiensem Gulielmi filium.
AT tu clare Comes, Comitis clarissime proles,
(Henrice) huc flectas oculos, hos perlege versus.
Multa patris virtus animo, multusque recurset
Ejus honos, maneant infixi pectore vultus.
In te certa tui remanent vestigia patris,
Os oculosque Patri similes, moresque paternos
Egregii reddis; superest ut comprecer unum hoc,
Ut patris exemplo discas parere Leonl.
389
1
6EOR6E CORYAT S POEMS
Whereby the Lyons Kingly minde indined to advance
The Dragon greene to higher state, to more triumphant
chance,
He stoutly strikes him with his sword, Arise my Knight,
he saies,
Bestride thy horse, use gilded spurres, and weare the like
alwaies.
And likewise of a noble house, with him to lead his life,
O Katherine Queene, thy Sister Anne he doth espouse to
wife.
In natures giftes a peere to thee, in virtues rare a peere,
And Parre by name, a meeter match, I deeme no time did
heare.
Of her he leaves three Dragons green, three impes of
worthy fame,
(The Lyon of the princely race, in number left the same)
Henry this Earle, and Edward eke with Lady Anne hjs
deere,
All which he joinde to worthy mates, whiles that he lived
here.
And now they live in happy state, each one both man and
wife,
God graunt them many yeares to live, and lead a joyftill life.
The Lyon old leaveth this ayre, there is no other choyce,
And to his yong, this Dragon green, commends with
Kingly voice.
To kinges & queenes, from time to time, thus was he
holden deare,
As by the honours he attainde, most plainly doth appeare.
To Henry eight, to Edward sixth, and to Elizabeth,
The father and the children all, he was beloved till death.
For when the little Lyon came (king Edward) to his reigne,
In honour more the dragon grew, he had a greater traine ;
Made of the noble order Knight, (a Knight so was he
twise)
And after maister of the Horse : thus did this Dragon rise.
Of trophies pight for foughten fields, what should I here
recite ?
392
6EOR6E CORYAT S POEMS
The goodly spoiles, the triumphes got of civill foe by fight ?
The Westerne tumults how he quencht, to shew here do I
cease,
And how those furious rebels were by his force brought
to peace.
A deed worth praise, a palme not wonne without expence
of blood,
The Dragons curtesie shineth yet, the ground did feele
him good.
He cast him there in compasse wise, and folding wreathes
he makes,
With grisly shrikes his lofty wings amongst those ghests he
shakes.
For these exploits done in thc West, tis knowne every
where,
Both Baron of CardiiFe was he made, & County of Pem-
brokeshire,
O rufuU day, King Edward dies, his fatall time is come,
And Mary doth possesse the Crowne, his sister hath his
roome;
And now anew by Wyats fetch, there gins a civill broyle,
Against the Queene he doth conspire with all his force and
toyle.
He leadeth forth his rebell route, even unto London wall,
The Queene doth make chiefe of this warre, & Captaine
generall,
The Dragon green. What should she do ? what othcr
hope remaind ?
He spits his venim round about, wherewith her foes are
stainde.
Through thickest of the enemies rout, without feare doth
hego,
The traytors tremble, he them o'errunnes, and taketh
Wyat tho.
An other battaile yet he fought under Queene Maries
name,
S. Quintines walles his soldiers shakt, and got the gole
and game.
393
6EOR6E CORYAT S POEMS
And in the field the Frenchmen forst to flee before his face,
Whiles Philip war in France doth hold : this dragon had
such grace,
That in each fight from all the rest, the pahne he still did
get,
And therefore in his open mouth the bloudy hand is set
A G>nquerour invincible ; would he have bene more slacke
(Elizabeth) to fight for thee, and put thy enemies backe ?
But that the God who rules the Reahn, & eke thy heavenly
minde,
Makes thee enjoy a quiet time ? for thee he could not finde
Just cause to shew his manly heart. And now well smitte
in yeares,
He learnes the quiet gowne to d'on, to him no warre
appeares :
But this last fight with cruell death, to whome he yeddes
not yet ;
His worthy Ghost with triumphes joy in starry sky is set.
And as in life for good successe, a triumpher he was,
So now with glee into the heavens, the Dragons sprite doth
passe.
The conversion of thc Triumph to thc right
honourable Henry Earle of Pembroke his
sonne and heire.
BUt thou (my Country Lord) most worthy impe of
counties race,
Henry my L. reade thou these lines, turne hitherward thy
face.
An heape of Fathers haughty acts, and honours to thy
minde
Presents themselves, his countenance in heart do thou fast
binde.
The perfect signes of Pembrokes blood in thee do fiiU
remaine,
Thy face, thy eies, thy fathers looks, thy deeds shew his
wordes plain.
394
GEORGE CORYAT^S POEMS
One thing my Lord there resteth yet, which I do boldly
crave,
That fathers lore thy lesson be, t'obey the Lyon brave.
And as the Sire pleasde the old, and all the Lyons seede,
By his example be thou prest therein eke to proceede.
Do as you do, prostrate before the Lyon lay you downe.
The Lyon, or the Lyonesse, which now doth beare the
Crowne,
Was ever bent, and most propense unto the Dragon greene,
As King her father was his friend, so hee his mendly
Queene.
Whose onely gift did him preferre to beare so high a
port,
Lord Steward of her house, chiefe guide & guerdon of her
Court.
She can exalt the Dragons impe, before the Dragon old,
And will I trust God graunt her life, long reigne over us
to hold.
God grant the Pembroke Dragon may likewise live many
a yeare,
That he may leame the Lyon well both for to love and
feare.
Your honours most hiunble Chaplayne,
George Coryate.
Ad illustrissimum Comitem Oxoniensem.
GLare Comes, generis summum decoramen aviti,
Insuper Angliaci magna Columna soli.
Da veniam tenui modulanti carmina plectro,
Qu6d nequit optatis verba referre sonis.
Te tua nobilitas commendat & inclyta virtus,
Fortiaque eximii corporis acta tui.
Nil opis externas quasris, nec carmina (quamvis
Carmen amet quisquis carmine digna gerit)
Huc tamen adveniens cum Principe nobilis hospes,
Carminibus nobis excipiendus eris.
39S
6EOR6E CORYAT S POEMS
Tum quia Musarum tanto capiaris amore,
Aunbus his modulis occinit una tuis.
Tu velut hesterna cepisti carmina nocte,
Hac quoque sic capias carmina nostra die.
Tuo Honori deditissimus,
Georgius Coryatus.
Ad illustrissimum virum Dominum Burghleium
primarium Angliae Thesaurarium.
SI locus hic superest, inter si gaudia tanta
Admittunt tenues tua magna n^otia Musas,
Omnis Pegasii properaret turba fiuenti.
Htc tibi gratificans, & nobile nomen adorans.
Ast licet hse sileant, cythari tamen obstrepet una,
Olim nominibus tibi devinctissima multis,
Hsec mea Calliope est, ne dedignere canentem.
(Inclyte vir) totam tibi quse cum corpore vitam
Devovet, & gratam reddit testantia mentem
Carmina more suo, sed multo majus amore.
Obsequiis concede suis, concede Camoenis.
Scilicet hisce mei Domini quod sedibus hospes
Advenis, accepta Regina, proximus astas,
His mihi carminibus summo excipiendus honore.
Hoc superest magno profundam vota Tonanti,
FceUx Nestoreos hlc quum superaveris annos,
Det tibi promissam super aurea sydera vitam.
T. H devotissimus
Georgius Coryatus.
396
GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS
Ejusdem Carmina ad iUustrissimos Oxoniensis &
Cantabrigiensis Academis Cancellarios D.
Robertum Dudleium Comitem Leicestrensem
& D. Gulielmum Cecilium Dominum Burgh-
leium, pronunciata in magna Aula Novi
CoUegii Oxoniensis, Astronomice.
SYdera qui lustrat, qui spherica corpora cernit,
In sphEra geminos cernit is esse Polos.
Arcticus est alter, Polus est antarcticus alter,
Hoc splendente Polo non micat ille Polus.
Nos tamen htc geminos lucere videmus In urbe
Hac nostra claros stelligerosque Polos.
En micat Oxonii Polus inclytus Oxoniensis,
Dudleius nostri duxque decusque Poli.
Lucet & hac nostra Polus alter in urbe Cecillus,
Ut videas geminos jam simul esse Polos.
llle Polus noster studiorum stellifer Atlas,
Hic Cantabrigti lucida stella Poli.
Quod simul hanc nostram juncti venistis ad urbem,
Quod simul unus honor junxit utrosque Polos,
Accipite haec simili simul 6 pietate Patroni,
Vivite fcelices atque valete Poli.
Clarissimo & honoratissimo Viro D. GuHelmo
Cecillo Baroni Burghlceo, ordinis Periscele-
dis Equiti aurato, Summo AngHs Thesau-
rio, RegiEE M"' a sanctioribus consiliis, &
Academis Cantabrigiensis Cancellario dignis-
simo, rheumate laboranti pharmacum, unde
ex morbo convaluit.
MUIta aliis alii, tibi semper reddimus unum
Carmen, at est docto grata medela viro,
Carmine dii superi placantur crimine liesi,
Carmen amat quisquis carmine dign;
Fertur Alexandrum peteret quum morbus,
Carminibus lectts convaluisse cit6.
397
leia viro. ^h
bus, Homeri ^^1
6EOR6E CORYAT S POEMS
Huc venio, & redeo, maneo, rogo, quoerito^ plango»
Audio nil nisi te morbus iniquus habet.
Comprecor (ut prosim tibi) magni carmen Homeri»
Quo tu perlecto convaluisse potes.
Nunc tibi devotos morborum postulo divos.
Nunc mihi Mercurium consuluisse rogo.
Iste Jubet libros medicorum ut consulam, et illi
Nec tibi, nec mihi se consuluisse negant
Hos repeto docti promitdt multa Galenus,
Rheumatico certam datque Salernus opem.
Quos ^o sic paucis conjunxi versibus, ut sint
Auxuioque tibi, prsesidioque tibi.
Perlege de morbo vestro breve carmen. Homerus
J[uvit Alexandrum, te mea Musa juvet.
1234
Jejuna. vig^a. caleas dape. tuque labora.
5 . ^ . . 7
Infundas calidum. Modicum bibe. comprime fiatum.
8
Hsec bene tu serva, Si vis depellere rheuma.
1 Jejuna.
Ejice Rheumaticos jejunans (optime) fiuxus,
Jejunare bonum est, sed macerare, malum.
2 Vigila.
Tu multum vigilas. & dormis raro. quid inde ?
Vis dormire magis ? & vigilare minus ?
3 Caleas dape.
Teque dape, (ast calida) meque juvabis ope.
4 Tuque Labora.
Nonne labor studium multorum ? lectio multa ?
Est labor ille animi, sit labor iste manus.
5 Infundas calidum.
Hoc liquet, ut frigus tanti sit causa doloris,
Infusum calidum pellere rheuma potest
6 Modicum bibe.
Cuncta facis modici, modici comedisque bibisque,
Quid juvat ut jubeam te modicum bibere ?
39«
6EOR6E CORYATS POEMS
7 G>mprime flatum.
Et flatus, ventusque nocent, tu comprime flatum,
Naribus ut pulsus non ferat inde caput.
8 Haec beni tu serva &c.
Hsec htnh si serves, nec possis pellere rheuma,
Consule tunc Medicos, namque Scholaris ego.
Ad eundem gratiarum actio pro 40 solidis 4 se illi
dono donatis.
QUatuor ex vestra venerunt aurea dextra,
Et data tu nostris versibus apta refers.
Munera carminibus tua sunt majora tenellis,
Ast utinam verti versus in illa queat.
Tum tibi carminibus possem pergratus haberi,
Quatuor atque darem terque quaterque tibi.
Pondere sed nequeunt, numero sed munera vestra
iEquiparare queunt, parque referre pari.
Ast tioi ponderibus, nec munera versibus sequa,
Quando referre mihi non datur ulla tibi.
Aurea nec possim tibi carmina ferre Cecili,
Aurum nec cures, quando poeta refert.
Aurea tanta tibi quod sint quot carmina Vati,
Atque tua haec dixit * Desipientis opes.
Aurea nuUa tibi, sed tantum, Carmina reddam.
JErta, nam mea sunt, aurea nuUa mihi.
Auro quando tuo mea carmina nuUa referre
iEqua queant, summus reddat id ipse Deus.
Ejusdem ad eundem querela pro Principe, Patria,
& Musis, in Pseudocausidicos se injust^ oppri-
mentes.
SlcUidum immortale decus CeciUe Sororum,
Principis, & Patriae summa columna tuas :
* Sic dixit iliustrissima tna nzor in carminibus snis ad Georgium
Bnchanannm Scotiae poetam.
399
i
6EOR6E CORYAT'S POEMS
Suscipe pro regno, pro Musis, Principe, posco
Provoluens pedibus paucula verba tuis.
Reginam, Regnum, Musas immaniter omnes
Causidici spoliant, dilaniantque suas,
Decipulis l^^um, linguis venalibus, astu,
Sumptibus immodicis, innumerisque malis.
Non peto Causidicos qui causas dicere vere,
Sed qui pro lucro dicere falsa solent.
Lex bona, l^s et est bonus usus. & optimus ordo :
Ast bona saepe malus non bene tractat homo.
Hinc vis & lites, dolus & furor, impetus, ardor,
Quum trahit ad mores optima quaeque malos.
Quando trahit retrahitque viros ad devia legum^
Ut Cacus Herculeos traxit ad antra boves.
Ast precor Alcides veluti superaverit illum,
Hosce novos poteris exuperare Cacos :
Alcidesque boves illos velut extulit antris,
Sic nobis vestram ferre velitis opem.
Regnum forte potest, sed Princeps fortiter illos
Legibus Angliacis exuperare suis.
Nos opis expertes Musae flavaeque monetas,
Imbelles, illis nil nisi praeda sumus.
Qui potes, ergo velis miseras defendere Musas,
Sub patrocinio sint maneantque tuo.
Fasne nefasne siet, jus, situe injuria juris,
Non reputant, modo sic diripiantur opes.
Dicite, sed quales ? Sapiens sic dixerat olim,
Aurifluas, nuUas Insipientis opes.
Ast utinam veras sapientum quaerere gazas
In ccelo inciperent, & nisi vera loqui,
Causidici falsi, qui leges munere torquent,
Falsaque pro veris substituisse solent.
Haec tibi Stellato venient dicenda Cubiclo,
Hlc ubi Stella potens, tu Cynosura micas.
Interei ver6 Musarum nobile Sydus,
Unica Castaliis spesque salusque deis,
Noscere supplicibus petimus te vocibus ista,
£t sine lege malis ponere posse modum.
400
GEORGE CORYATS POEMS
Sicelidtlm immortale decus Cicille s
Principis & Patris summa columna, Vale.
T. H. deditissimus, devinctissimusque
Georgius Coryatus.
Sacrx Theologiae Baccalaureus.
Ad illustrissimum virum D.Joannem Puckeringum
Magni SigilH Custodem.
INclyte qui regni suprema negotia tractas,
Cujus & ingenio consilioque vigent,
Da veniam tenui modulanti carmina Muste,
Quod nequit optatis verba referre sonis.
Multa & magna tibi cupio proferre, sed obstat
Hic dolor auditus debilitasque mei.
Ast tibi committo me, causam, pectora, vitam,
Et pro judicio stentve cadantve tuo.
Plurima ssepe dedi Regins carmina, saepe
Hsec mihi munific^ munera plura dedit.
Testis erit Dominus nunc Thesaurarius iste
Inclytus Aonidum, magnus Apollo, Parens.
Et si vixisset, Dominus Dudleius esset,
Oxonii Phffibus qui mihi semper erat.
Et si vixisset, nunc Walsinghamius esset,
Clarus Eques, Domin<e Principis altra manus.
Hic mihi surreptas (qua tu nunc parte laboras)
Principis assensu restituebat opes.
Sic age. Reginam, Patriam, Musasque juvato,
Hinc tibi proveniet gloria, fama, decus.
Summe Pater totum qui torques numine coelum,
Reginam & regni sceptra tuere sui.
Et tibi perpetuam super aurea sydera vitam
Det tibi perpetuus qui regit astra deus.
T. H. devotissimus
Georgius Coryatus
Sacne Theologiae Baccalaureus.
OC 11. 401 3C
GEOR6E CORYATS POEMS
Reverendissimo in Christo Patri ac Domino D.
Joanni Vitegifto Archiepiscopo Cantuariensi,
totius Angliae Primati ac metropolitano,
Georgii Coryati in nomen ac cognomen suum
et in librum illius adversus Thomam Cart-
wright, elogium atque Evangelica Ak/>o9<x<^.
FU I Iget in aethereo veluti Sol aureus orbe,
It I que reditque vias, pervolitatque Polum :
Ho I c agit Angliaco florens tua gloria Regno,
Mo I mus ut injudeat, progreditura magls.
Mis I sus ab excelso cceli Rectore supremi,
Sus I picis hunc animo, pectore, voce Deum.
A I rdua divini reseras mysteria verbi,
De I que tuo totus provenit ore Deus.
O I mnia, fklsiloqui tollis deliria Vatis,
Cu I ras ipse gregem, peUis et ipse lupum.
I [procul umbrisequax, procul ito tenebrio T. C.
No|n potes in clara luce videre diem.
Men I te manuque tu& destruxit mcenia Babel,
lo I manu Nemrod concidit ipse sua.
An I non Nestoreos igitur tibi comprecer annos ?
Nes I toreum quando pectus et ora refers ?
Vi I ribus humanis deus altior omnibus unus,
Te I dedit, aethereas quo caperemus opes.
Gift I etenim Angligenis donum cognoscitur esse,
Us I us et 6 doni maximus esto Dei.
V, R. P, devotissimus
Georgius Coryatus.
402
GEORGE CORYATS POEMS
Epitaphium Reverendissimi in Christo Patris ac
Domini D. Jcannis Piersei, seu potius nostri
temporis Persei, Episcopi quondam Sarisburien-
sis, ac postea Archiepiscopi Eboracensis, &
MetropoHtani ejusdem, Mecaenatis sui optimi,
TRistis ut Andromede monstris objecta marinis
Perseia erepta est inviolata manu :
Romuleo Ciiristi subjecta Ecclesia monstro
(Quod fera terribilis dicitur esse maris)
Sic erepta tua; divins robore dextrEc
Gaudet, & in laudes occinit ista tuas.
Piersei celsus perrupit spiritus oris
Ora Medus<ei sanguinolenta Pap^.
Saxa Deos quondam, truncos qufE numina fecit,
Transtulit & vivos in fera saxa viros:
Saxea facta tua nunc squalet Bestia voce,
Pallas ut in clypeo Gorgonis ora geris,
Nunc viget Andromede florens Ecclesia Christi,
Inachides vicit, perdomuitque feram,
Phorcis obit, clypco Pallas caput intulit altum
Anglorum Pallas, Regia virgo, caput.
Pallada sic nostram Capltis veneramur honi
Perseus horrendte quod dedit iste neci,
Ergo Pater, PrECSul, Pra;co sanctissime Perseu,
Christi athleta potens, perdomitorque PapiC ;
Andromedes capias gratantia carmina nostra:,
Scilicit ex victa lasta trophiCa fera.
Terruit excelsos olim qus BuUa Monarchas,
Os tetrum in supieros impia verba tonans.
Mitra triplex duplices geminans cum clavibus enses,
Supremum inferni, Cerbereumv^ caput.
Seu Draco multorum Capitum, teterrima pestis
(Monstrum horrendum, ingens, quod solet esse Papa)
Ille sacro Domini percussus flamine verbi
In Phlegetontaea jam Styge monstra parit.
At tu summe Pater terris surrepte, triumphans
Es cum sydereo nobilis umbra Deo.
403
GEORGE CORYATS POEMS
Epitaphium Reverendissimi in Christo Patris ac
Domini D. Joannis Juelli Episcopi Sarisbu-
riensis, Meccenatis sui optimi.
JUlius Austriacos Caesar cum vicerat Anglos»
Fertur ad occiduas castra locasse plagas :
£t fiuidasse suo de nomine Caesaris urbem,
Sive Sarisburiam Caesareamvi voces.
Julius abscessit, rexitque hanc jure Juellus,
Angliaci nuper maxima Gemma soli.
Quo neque vir melior quisquam, neque Episcopus alter
Doctior, aut vita purior ullus erat.
Hoc sua testantur pulchri monumenta laborum,
Proque Dei scripti relligione libri.
Queis nunquam scripsit quisquam meliora, locutus
Nfcc magis Hyblaeo verba referta favo.
Fulminat in vitia : in verae pietatis amantes
Spargit Evangelica singula plena fide.
Chara Uto imprimis, cunctis mortalibus asqua
Vita fuit, nullis mens pia fracta malis.
Mortalis vitae pertaesus, & asthera scandens,
Evolat ad superas inclyta Gemma domos.
Ergo JueUe vale rutilo preciosior auro,
Angliaci nuper fiilgida Gemma soli.
Aliud Epitaphium in eundem.
Buccina, Pastor, Eques, sonuit» pavit, superavit,
Christum, AngloS) Papam, voce» labore, manu.
The English.
A Trumpet, Shepheard, Knight, did sound» feed, overcome,
Christ, England, Pope, with voice, labour, hand.
404
GEORGE CORYAT'S POEMS
Epitaphium in lectissimam fceminam D. Annam
Ciifton, D. Joannis Clifton Equitis uxorem,
sepultam Baringtonis in agro Somersetensi.
A NA equitis conjux Joannis Clifton, & ANNA
N ata Patris Domini Montegli, gloria, lume N
N ec non vita viri dum vixit, nobile lume N
ANNA hiec in partu periens hlc conditur ANNA.
Ad clarissimum virum D. Eduardum Dierum
optime de se meritum.
DUm tibi carminibus cupio pergratus haberi,
Hkc subiit mentem soUicitudo meam.
Multa an pauca darem, seu prorsus carmina nulla,
An alio possem gratior esse modo.
Multa jubent (prasclare) tibi me scribere multa,
Purus amor, probitas, officiumque meum.
Sin tibi multa darem, culparem carmina multim,
Sic melius multo, si tibi nulla darem.
Sin tibi nulla darem, merit6 tibi nullus haberer,
Nec memor officii dicerer esse mei.
Quid faciam quasro? numero, vel pondere justo,
Carmina tu modulo dimetiare tuo ?
Si numero; non multa fero, sin pondere, multa,
Etsi pauca tibi, sint modo grata, feram.
Ac si me logices non multum regula fallat,
Nec tibi multa fero; nec tibi nulla tamen.
Accipe perplacida gratissima carmina fronte,
No alio possum gratior esse modo.
Gratulor adventum vobis cum Principe lcetum,
Et cum nobilium (chare Diere) choro.
Epicedium D. Richardi Worselii clarissimi
migeri, Insul^ Vectensis olim Prxfecti.
URsula Worselium cur deflet sponsa maritum ?
Quidvfc gemunt raptum nati duo pignora Patrem ?
Quidve suum Dominum fiimuli toto agmine plangunt ?
Quid lachrymis luget populus Vectensis obortis?
405
6EOR6E CORYAT'S POEMS
Quidve suum Phoebum Musae lachtymentur ademptum ?
Cur ego ? cur tantos gemitus ? cur fundo querelas ?
Nonne gravis dolor est quum tot moriuntur in uno ?
Vir, Pater, & Dominus, Rector, Philomusus, amicus ?
Epitaphium ejusdem, Parentum ejus, clarissimi
Equitis & Dominae, Jacobi & Annae Worselias,
matris suae etiam Parentum D. Joannis Lec,
Equitis clarissimi, & illius Dominas Annx,
duorum etiam filiorum ejusdem Richardi Pulu-
ere bombardico sublatorum : Octo nimirum
hominum in una Ecclesiae superiori parte tumu-
lis quatuor inclusorum, octo versibus comprc-
hensum.
EN pia Worselii lapis hic t^t ossa Richardi,
Insula Praefectum quem gemit ista suum.
Quem pater adversa Materque aspectat in urna,
Matris & in media spectat uterque parens.
Ad latus Mc nati pueri duo, sorte perempti
Praepropera, infesti pulveris igne jacent.
Foelices omnes, vel quos sors dira coegit
Tristia funestis claudere fata rogis.
Vester affinis summ^ devinctus & devotus
Georgius Coryatus composuit, & posuit.
Epitaphium Clarissimi Viri Gulielmi Awberii,
civilis juris Doctoris, Vicarii Generalis Archi-
• episcopi Cantuariensis, & supplicum libellorum
Reginae Elizabethae Magister.
HIc situs Awberius, Legum Clarissimus ille
Doctor & Interpres, j usque piumque docens :
lUe fori judex quum Cantuariensis obivit
Munus, & eximie prsestitit illud onus :
Supplicibus praefectus erat, summisque Libellis
Principis Elisabeth, queis bene fiinctus, obit.
Quid referam ingenium, mores, vitamque probatam,
Consilium, studium, judiciumque suum ?
406
GEORGE CORYATS POEMS
Quid genus & proavos & maxima nomina dicam ?
Pradia quid vel opes enumerare juvat?
Vel sua turritis surgentia mcenia saxis?
Tecta domus miris aedificata modis?
Non bona fortuns deerant, non corporis, artis
Mentis & egregise vis sibi magna fuit.
Testis erit Princeps, proceres, populique Britanni,
Quos coluit studiis, officiisque suis.
PrEcipue testis sit munificentite & auri
Supplicibus precibus pauper inopsque suis.
Nam veluti Princeps est clementissima, sic is
Supplicibusque favens simplicibusque fuit,
Charus erat toti populo, procerumque catervs,
Reginfe imprimis, Principibusque viris.
Audiit Oxonii superantem se sua Princeps,
Tunc admirata est ingeniumque suum.
Quum tot Pandectas, quum tanta volumina legum
Tam cit6 tam subito volveret ore suo.
Sic cum vixisset, famamque decusque parasset
Eximium, vitse jam satur, astra petit.
Atque animam Domino reddens, corpusque sepulchro
Awberius, nomen liquit in orbe suum.
Epitaphium Trium Ckrissimorum Armigeromm |
sepultorum Londini in proxima Ecclesia West-
monasteriensi, D. Rowlandi Vaughan nuper
Sereniss. Regins Angliae D. Elizabethae cor-
poris Armigeri: D. Joannis Vaughan ejusdem
Regins in partibus Borealibus a Consiliis, ac
D. Gulielmi Vaughan ejusdem Rowlandi filii,
D. Gulielmi Cecilli, Equitis inaurati, D.
Burghleii, totiusque Anglis D. Thesaurarii,
nuper clarissimi charissimique servi.
CEmite tres uno conclusos funcre claros,
Et consanguineos, conspicuosque viros.
Armigeros omnes: Rowlandus at Armiger unus
Corporis Elisabet Principis hujus erat.
407
6EOR6E CORYATS POEMS
Principis & corpus sic defendebat, ut armis
Hoc vivo est ausus perdere nemo suis.
P6st miseri sacrum statuerunt perdere corpus,
Vertit in authores sed Deus arma suos.
Vertat & usque precor, Reginam prot^t usque
Talibus Armigeris, ccelitibusque suis.
Armiger excellens Joannes nomine Vaughan
£t pius, et prudens, & venerandus homo.
Ergo k consiliis regni Borealibus hujus,
Inclyta consiliis prsestitit acta suis.
Ergo tibi charus Domina 6 darissima Knevet,
Conjugii junxsti quem tibi jure virum :
Tam beni qui vixit mortis htnh finiit horam,
Hic etiam adversa parte sepultus adest.
Hic Guliekne jaces Rowlandi maxima proles,
Spes patriae, ac patrui, spes quoque primi Patris.
Quem cit6 praereptum praedara insignia, virtus
Inclyta, mens foelix, caelica vita beant.
£t si forma viros commendet ut aurea virtus,
Huic Phaebi facies, corpus Alexis erat.
Nobilibusque viris si laus placuisse, Cecillo
Est tua laus Domino perplacuisse tuo.
At Rowlande Pater, Joannes Patrue Vaughan
(Quos priiis hic tumuli condecoravit honos)
Nunc charo juncti nato, claroque nepoti
In supera aeterni vivitis &rce Dei.
G. C,
Index
Abbeville, Thonnaa Coryat at, i. i6o;
gallows at, 160.
Abdua, tiver at Cremona, I. 257.
Abraham, ancestorof ihe Magi, ti. 325.
Achmet, Sultan, and the defence of
Acrostic on Thomas Coryat by Beo
Jonson, 1. 19.
Aclors in Venice, I. 386.
Adige river at Verona, II. 17, 154;
overflowings of, 18.
Adinheim, Eberhardus, bishop of
Spires in Coryat's time, 11. 249.
Adolph of Nassau, thirty-third Gennai)
Emperor, II. 235.
Adolphus, archbishop of Cologne, epi-
laph and monumenl of, 11. J32.
Adrian, Emperor, and Justinus, I. 209.
Adrian, Pope, and Charles the Great,
Adula, spring of the Rhme al, IL 176.
jEnus, nver m Rhaetia, II. 64.
Agnes, wife of Andrew, king of Hun-
gary, II. 147.
Agnes, first wife of Empcror Amol-
phus, II. 225.
Agnes, Empress, wife of Henry III.,
II- 234-
Agricola, Rodolphus, praise of, by
Erasmus, II. 327; epitaph ol^by Bar-
barus, 228.
Agrippa, Marcus Vipsanius, and Co-
logne, II. 312,
Agrippa, Sibylla, prophecy of, II. 259.
Agrippina, wife of Germanicus Caesar,
and Cologne, II. 31Z.
Aiguebelette, the first Alp in Savoj-,
seen by Thomas Coryai, i- 21; ; his
-nof, 216.
A iguebelle, neartheAiguebelettem
Aix in Provincc, Court of Parliament,
,9.
Aken, Nimeguen's tribute to, 11. 359.
Alaric, king of the Goths, in Italy,
'■305-
Albanus, martyr at Mayence, 11. 282.
Albert, Archduke, at La Fere, in
Picardy, I. 156.
Albert, duke of Austria, ai Ziirich, 11.
108.
AJbert, emperor and king of the
Romans, slain by John, duke of
Swabia, It. 144.
Albertus, statue of, ai Padua, t. 279.
Alberius, Austriacus, and the death of
Adolph of Nassau, 1298, [i. 235.
Albis, nver in Saxony, 1. 237.
Alboin, first king of the Longobards,
I. 336, 238 ; at Verona, ti. 21, 28 ;
deaUi of, at Verona, 38.
Alciat, epigram of, 1. 229.
Alcuin and the Sorbona, 1. 171 ;
schoolmaster of Charlemagne 11.
169.
Aldobrandini, Cardinal, ambassador
of the Pope 10 Charles Emanuel,
Duke of Savoy, [. 231.
Alemannia, etymologies of, 11. 178.
Alemannus, surname of Hercules, 11.
"?9-
Alexander III., Pope, and Frederick
Barbarossa at Venice, I166. I. 349.
Alexandria, body of St. Mark the
evangelist broughl from, 3 10, 1. 354.
Allapiaiia, Thomas Coryal at, 11, 61.
AJIey, Peter, panegync verses on
Thomas Coryat by, 1, 75-76.
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Allobroges, peopk of Vientia, I. 1 1 8.
Alphonsus, king of CasieDa, pretendant
to the empire of Germany, 11. 266.
Alsatia, descriplion of, 11. iSo.
Altorf unlversily, inGermany, II. 307.
Amadeus, first duke of Savoy, 1415,
afterwards Pope Felix V., i. 118.
Amandus, Arst bishop of Strasburg,
II. 193.
Ambigatus, king' of ihe Celts, 1. 241.
Ambrose, earl of Bergamo, 11. 56.
Amerbachius, Joannes, and his sons,
leamed men of Basle, 11. 171.
Amiens, Thomas Coryat at, i. 161 ;
Scaliger^s verses on, 161 ; surprise
of, by the Spaniards, Ijg?, 165.
Amphitheatreat Verona,descriptioiiof,
II. 19 f.
Amsterdam, Hugh Broughtoa at, II.
I7S-
Anacharsis, travels of, t. 128.
Anafectus, Panluccius, first duke of
Venice, c. 700, i. 418.
Ancone mountain, Mezolt near, ti. 61 ;
distancefromtoCbur in Rhaetia,375.
Andernach, battle of, 776, II. 37 ; birth-
place of Guinterius, 195 ; batlles of,
306.
Andrew, king of Hungary, 11. 147.
Angelus, Politianus, epistles by, I.
of, at Basle,
393-
Anna, Empress,
II. 159
Anne, Queen, wife of James I. of
England, her picture in Venice, I.
426.
Antennacum, see Andernach.
Antenor, Padua built by, 1. 138, 270;
epitaph of, 371.
Antiquities of Germany, it. 82.
Antoninus, Marcus Aurelius, the phil-
osopher, and the city of Amiens, 1.
161 i the sevenieenth Emperor of
Rome, II. 2oa
Antoninus Pius,and the Cilyof Amiens,
I. 161.
Antoninus, Verus, and the fourth per-
secution of the ChrisCians, 1. 207.
Antonio, fellow-traveller of Thomas
Coryat, 1. 228,
'ATefti^uiTi^iXot, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 22-26.
Aponus, Petnis, statue of, at Padua,
I. 38a
Aquileia, in Einperor Martian's tiiiK,
and Attila, i. 305 ; Cardtnal Gri-
mannus, patriarch of, 321 ; Henno-
laus Barbarus, patriarch of, 11. 31S.
Aquinas, Thomas, and Corpus Chrisii
Arar (Latinnameof river SadneXi.aoj;
.154.
Argentina, Roman name for Strasbur^ ,
II. 184.
Arians, Bartholomew, bishop of
Vicenia, and the, II. 5.
Ariovistus, king of the Cermans, balllc
of Julius Caesar against, at Basle,
u. 172.
Aristotle, travels of, 1. iz8.
Armoury of the Duke^s Palace ai
Venice, I. 345.
Armoury of Ziirich, II. 100.
Armu in Zeeland, Thomas Coryat ai,
II. 372-
Amolphus and the siege of Vetona, ii.
37 ; at Bergamo, 900, 56.
Arnolphus Malus, son of Emperoi
Arnolphus, 11. 22;.
Arola river, 11. 144; Solodure on, 154.
Arsenal of Venice, descriplion of, [.
358.
Asimo, first bishop of Chur, 452, 11. S9.
Athanasius, bishop of Spires, c 61D,
11. 349.
Athenaeum, meaning of, 1. 396.
Athesis river, see Adige.
Attalus, martyr at Lyons, 1. 207.
Altila at Lyons, 1. 204 ; at Cremoiu,
260; at Padua, 273; in Ilaly, 30;;
in Vicenia, 11. 13 ; in Verona, 31 ;
at Brescia, 47 ; at Bergamo, s5; ai
Basle, 171 ; at Strasburg, 183; »
Spires, 351; at Wornis, 263; il
Cologne, 348.
Augsl, see Augusta Rauracorum.
Augusta, name of many ciiies, i. 230.
Augusta Rauracorum, built bj Muni'
tius Plancus, II. 152.
Aurelian, battle of, with the Gemutu
near Mayencc, 11. 380,
Ausonius, verses on Milan by, t. liO-
341.
Autharus, third king of the Longo-
bards, i. 235.
Awbrey, WiUJam, epitaph of, by George
Coryat, 11. 405-406.
Aymon, lasl earl of Savoy, I. 2 18.
Bacchara, on the Rhine, 11. 299.
Bacchilio, river of Vicenza, 11. 3, 154.
Baden, Thomas Coryat at, II. 137 ; on
the Limacus, 154.
Baden, Lower, Thomas Corj'at at, il.
197; marquisaie of, 199; Hochberg,
title of ihe raarquesses of, 200,
Badley, Richard, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, i. io7-i 10.
Bajazet, 3Dd Tamberlane, 1. 349, note.
Baker, Wiiliam, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 79-Bo.
Baiaam, ancestor of the Magi, II, 335.
Ball, Lord, of Bagshot in Kampshire,
customs of, II. 303.
Balthasar, third wise king, offcrs
myrrh, II. 326.
Barbarus, Hermolaus, patriarch of
Aquileia, Agricola's epitaph by, U.
Bardo, abbot of Fulda, cathedral of
Mayence finished by, II. 271.
Barocius, Viccntius, praetor of Ber-
gamo. H. 53-
Bartholomew, bishop of Vicenza and
the Arians, 11. 5.
Basil, see Basle,
Basle, bishop of, and Zilrich, II. 108 ;
death of Huldricusof Palma at, 146;
Thomas Coryat at, 152 ; elymology
of, 1 53 ; on the Rhine, 1 54 ; cathedral
of, 156; university of, founded by
Fius fl., 170; Attila at, 171 ; Coun-
cil of, 1431, 172 ; distance from, to
Slrasburg, 376,
Bassano, owner of Livy's house, I, 282,
Bassanum near Trent, 1. 273,
Bastard, Thomas, panegyric verses on
ii^Thomas Coryat by, I. 78.
Bat, Swiss money, 11. 107.
Balavia, former name of Holland, II.
362.
Baths of Baden, de^cription of, 11, 139-
143; discovered in 160,200; number
of, 201,
Batiles fought near Cremona, i, 259.
Beatrix, wife of Frederick Barbarossa,
II. 235.
Beauvoisis, province of, I. 167.
Bede, Venerable, it. 169 ; Alcuin,
scholar of, 1. 171.
Belford, Master, secretary of Sir Hcnry
Wotton, 1. 376.
Beilicure, archbishop of Lyons, 1. 204.
Bellovesus, son of Ambigatus, king of
the Celts, 1. 241.
Bembo, Cardinat, monument of, in
Padua, 1. 287.
Benacus Lake, i. 364.
Beratterius, Nicolas, and the pillars of
St. Mark's Place in Venice, 1. 324.
Berberomagum, see Worms.
Berengarius, Duke of Friuli, 11. 56.
Berengarius, Prince, at Verona, 11.
28.
Bergamo, subject lo Venice, I. 420 ;
Thomas Coryat at, 11. 48-60;
Scaliger^s verscs on, 49 ; cathedral
ofi 49-53 ; church of the Augusti
fn3rsin,54; Attilaat,56; Amolphus
at, 56.
Ber|[en-op-zoom in Brabani, 11. 371.
Bencus, hill near Vicenia, 11. 3.
Beme, city of, againsC Zurich, li. loS ;
Kinmgsfelden Monastery,possession
of; II. 143-
Bertha, wife of Henry IV., 11. 234.
Bessarion, Cardinal, his library at
Venice, i, 321,
Betsa, Venetian tin coin, 1. 423.
Bevelaqua, La, Thomas Coryat at, L
269.
Bibliander, Theodorus, leamed 1
of Zurich, 11, <_
Bibliothecii by Gesner, I. 394.
Bing, see Bingen.
Bingen on the Rhine, U. 209; Thomas
Coryat at, 295,
Biron, marshall of, at Amiens, 1. 166.
Blandina, martyr at Lyons, I. 207.
Blood, rain of, io Brescia, 11. 46.
Boars' heads on bouses in Baden,
BoUanus, Dominicus, s<
and bishop of Brixia, n
I, J82,
Bominee, Sconce in Scowel Island, 11.
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
fionifacius, EnglishbishopofMayence,
II. 174-
Born, description of, ii. 309.
Bononia, Caroius Quintus and the
Pope at, I. 340,
Bonus, Joannes, firsl dweller on tbe
Rialio, L 304.
Bookseilers' Street in Frankfort, 11.
391.
Boppard, description of, captured by
King Richard of England, 11. 304.
Boquinus, Petrus, preacher at Heidel-
berg, II. 229.
Borromeo, Cardinal, his monument
in Milan, i. 244.
Boson, king of Province or Provence,
11. 38.
Bouillon, Duke of, inasler of the horse
of the king of France, 1. 193.
Bouillon, Godfrey, duke of, and the
first crusade, 1094, 11. 238.
Boulogne, Thonias Coryat at, 1608,
I. 157 ; ga]lows at, i. 158.
Bourbon, monument of the Cardinal
of, at St. Dcnis, 1. 185.
Brabant inundated by the sea, 1420, II.
Bragadino, Antonius, at the siege of
Famagusla, i. 421.
Brandenburg, Marquess of, and Rugia
Island, I. 237.
Brandus, Sebastianus, leamed man of
Basle, 11. 171.
Braves, Venetian bandits, 1. 413.
Brembana Valley, Brembus river ia,
II. 61.
Brembtis river in Brembana Valley,
u. 61.
Bt«nes, M. de, ambassador in Con-
staniinople, i. 31 1. .
Brennus, Gaiilish chief, in Verona, 11.
17-
Brenta river, near Padua, 1, 270.
Brescia, sutiject to Venice, I. 420 (
Thomas Coryat at, II. 40 ; ScaligeHs
hexastichon on, 41 ; cathedral of,
43 ; Altila at, 47.
Bressa, see Brescia.
Bretueil, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 167.
Brewers Haven in Scowen Island, II.
3?i-
Briare, Thomas Coryat at, I. 196.
Bridge over the Mincius, I. 266.
Bridge, wooden, at Mayence, built by
Charles the Great, 813, 11. 2S1 ;
destroyed by fire, 823, a8i.
Bridges in Paris, i. 171 ; in Venice,
512 ; in Dordeecht, II. 367.
Bnsac on the Rhine, 11. 176.
Brixia, see Brescia.
Brondolo, haven of Venice, 1. 304.
Brooke, Christopher, panegyric venti
on Thomas Coryat Qy, I. 56'S7-
Brooke, Kiningsfclden Monasterynev,
II. 139 ; Thomas Coryat at, tt. 150.
Brothers, the four Albanian, statues of,
in Venice, 1. 331.
Broughton, Hugh,supposed conveision
of, 11. 175.
Brownc, Sir William, depuly governoi
of Flushing, II. 374,
Bnile, Albertus de, carving done in St.
George's Church by, I. 383.
Brun, William Tell at, 11. 102.
Bruschus, river in Slrasbuig, II. 183,
Bucentoro, the, Veneiian ship, i, 359.
Bucer, Martin, reformer in Stiasborg,
11. 194 ; reformed preacher, 335.
Buelerus, Marcus, of Zurich, ^endly
to Thomas Coryat, 11. 95, 97, 109;
Thomas Coryat's epistle 10, l3o-i34;
his epistle to Thomas Coryat, 13;-
136.
Buffoleroin Lombardy^Thomas Coryat
at, I. 237.
BuIIinger, Herry, learned maa of
Zurich, II, 98, log, III : manuscripts
of, 1 10 ; Coryat's epistle to, 127-130,
Burdeaux, in Aquitaine, Couri of
Parhament, i. 179.
Burghley, WilliamCecil, Lord,Ceorge
Coryat to, Ii, 395 f-
Burials, strange, in Venice, t. 393.
Bursa College, at Heidelberg, 11. 127.
Busbequius, Augerius, Gennan writer,
11. 85.
Butterflies, great swarms of, in Savoy,
1. 223.
Byrsa river at Basle, 11. 153, 155.
Cadmus, Thebes built by, 1. 138.
Caesar, Julius, Iravels of, 1. 138; battle
of, against Ariovistus, king of the
Germans at Basle, it. 172 ; and tbc
institution of the Roman prcfecti
in Gaul, 281.
Calais, Thomas Coryat at, 160S, 1. 151^
sands of, 153; descriptioQ of, 155^;
captured by the Spa.ni5h, 156; dis-
tance from, 10 Paris, 301.
Calepine, Ambrose, Augustinian friar
in Bergamo, Latin Di[:tiaaa.ry by, 11.
11.215.
Camp, viltage in Valtulina valley, 11.
6i ; Thomas Coryat at, 65.
Campegius, Symphorianus, his Lalin
tract on Lyons, I. 214.
Campjan, Thomas, panegyric verses
on Thomas Coryat by, i. 73.
Campion, Edmund, picture of, in the
CoIIege of Jesuits at Lyons, 1. iia
Campus Mariius, in Ziirich, 11. 10;.
Canal, Grand, at Venice, I. 306.
Canareio, quarter in Venice, i. 306.
Candia or Creie, subject to Venice,
I. 421.
Candianus, Thomas, consul of Padua,
I. 305.
Candolchin, Thomas CoTyat at, it. 65,
6?.
Canisius, Peter, lcamed man of Nime-
guen, 11. 360.
Capitano, military head of the forces
in ihe land cities subjeci to VenJcc,
Capito, Wolfangus Fabricius, refor-
mer in Strasburg, 11, 194.
Capra, Ear! Odoricus, palacc of, in
Vicenia, II. 9, 11.
Carew, Sir Francis, gardens of, II. 24
36,
Carinthia, Meinhard, diJce of, II. 144.
Carolosiadius, Andreas, Protestant
reader of Basle, 11. 167.
Carolus Calvus, see Charles the Bald.
Carolus Magnus, see Charles the Great.
Carolus Martellus, see Charles Martcl.
Carolus Quintus, see Charles V,
Carrarius, Francis, and Verona, II. 29.
Caiteromachus, Scipio, of Padua, 1. 298.
Cartwright, Thomas, 11, 401.
Casa, Joannes, bishop of Beneventum,
II. 110,
Casaubon, Isaac, and Thomas Coryat,
I. 180.
Casimires, family namc of the Count
Palatines, ti. 225.
Casimirian College at Heidelberg, il.
Casaandra, picture of, in Venice, t. 393.
Cassels, Prince Mauritius and the
Persiao ambassadors al, 11. 84.
Castella, haven of Venice, I. 304 ;
quarter in Venice, 306.
Casiiglione, or Castilion, Balthasar,
poet and orator, 1539, I. 268.
Castles of Verona, n. 19.
Castriot, sce Scandcrbeg.
Cathedral Church of Basle, 11. 156;
monument of Erasmus in, is8 ; of
Berganio, 49-53; of Brescia, monu-
menls of, 43 ; of Chur, buitt by
bishop Thetlo, 770, 88 ; of Cologne,
314; descriptionof,3i5; of Mayence,
founded by Witligisus, bishop, c.
1011.271; pulpits in, 273; ofSpires,
Robert Tumer on, 233 ; S. Bcrnard's
satutation lo ihe Virgin in, 236-237 ;
of Strasburg, founded by Clodoveus,
$oS, 1S5 ; of Verona, 31 ; S. Zcno'*
monumenc in, 33 ; of Worms, 256.
Caici. ancienl wartike people, 11. 301.
Cenis, see Senis.
Cethura, ancestress of the Magi, 11.
325-
Chambery, capitalcily of Savoy, I. 217.
Chambre, ta, see La Chambrc.
Chapineys used in Venice, i. 400.
Chapman, John, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryal by, 1. 7I'73.
Chappet de ta Royne, Thomas Coryat
at, 1. 195.
Charenton, Proleslant prcachers aC,
I. 185.
Charit^ la, Thomas Coryat at, i. 198.
Charles the Bald, lcing of France,
monumenc of, at SC. Denis, l. 183,
368 ; and the Normans, 197 ; deaCb
of, at Mantua, 267; at Verona, 778, II.
37; ai Andemach, 776,37; Ludovicus
king of Ilaly, grandson of, 39 ; tjatltc
□f, wlth Lewis II. at Andemach,
306.
Chartes the Creat (Charlemagne),
Sorbonne founded by, 796, I. 171 ;
in Italy, 230 ; and Pope Adrian, 235 ;
al Verona, II. 28; and Chc siegc of
Verona, 37 ; tower in Zurich, 98 ;
and tlie ecctesiastical atfairs of
Germany, 361 ; crowned king of
France al Worms, 769, 264 ; wooden
bridgc buitl ai Maycncc by, 813,
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Charles Martel, monument and
epiCaph of, at St. Denis, r. 184 ;
impnsoned al Cologne, 34^.
Charles IV. German Emperor, 11, 292.
Charles V. Kiog of France, first
Dauphin, 1364, i. 194-
Charles V. of Spain, battlc between
Francis I. and, 1. 230, 35; ; and the
Pope al Bononia, picture of, at
Venice, 340 ; statue of. in theSenate
HouseofWorms, 11. ibi.
Charles, son of Empress Anna, monu-
ment of, at Basle, 11. 1 59.
Charles, Duke of Burgundy, and the
Swiss at Ihe ballle of Granson, 1476,
I. 192 ; and the Swiss, 11. 103.
Charles Emanuel, prcsent Duke of
Savoy, i. 23r.
Chatillon, admiral of France, and the
Mount Falcon gallows, i. 170.
Chiavenna, Thomas Coryat at, tl. 65.
CJuliades by Erasmus, 11. 227.
Chioggia, haven of Venice, r. 304.
Chiqumie, Veneiian coin, va!ue of,
I. 389 ; gold coin, 422.
Chondomarius, kingiprisoner of Julian
the Apostate, 11. 193.
Christian II. Duke of Saxony, bene-
factor to Chur, ri. 90.
Chur, or Curia, prlocipal 10 wn of
Rhelia, 11. 63 ; Thomas Coryat at,
87-92 ; past history and description
of cathedral of, 8B-89 ; eonfederation
of, 1419, 1424, ri. 90 ; distance from,
to Zurich, 376.
Church, cathedral, of Amiens, descrip-
tion of, I. 162; cathedral of Milan,
description of monoments in, 244 ;
cathedral of Paris, 172 ; of Nevers,
198 ; cathedral, at Turin, 23^ ; of
the Augusiinian friars in Bergamo,
II. 54; of Madonna Miracoloso in
Venice, 365 ; of the Maccabees, in
Cologne, 340 ; Maria Aniiqua, in
Verona, 27 ; of Middieborough,
monuments of, 373 ; of Bees, 355 ;
of S, Albanus at Mayence, 28r ;
S. Anastasia, in Verona, 34 ; of
S.Barbara,inManiua, 1.266; S. Bar-
Iholomew^s, in Frankfort, 11. 289 ; S.
Calherine's in Oppenheim, 268 ; of
S. Felix and S. Regula built by
Clodoveus, king of France at Zurich,
97 ; Grcek, S. George's, descriptiou
of, r. 367 ; ceremonies in, 36&i^ 1
S. Gcreon, and thc martyrs, reha m
Cologne, II. 342; of S. Justium
Padua, 1.288; ofS. Mary in Viceoa,
II. (o; S. Mark's in Ventce, I. 347,
S. Paurs in Venice, 385 ; of S. Pm
in Zurich, n. 99; of S. UrsuU 10
Colognc, 337.
Churches in Lower Baden, rl. Vjn
in Calais, ceremoaies io, t. 1 53 ; Id
Cologne, ri. 314; of Dordrecht, 367 .
of Heidelberg, 209 ; in Lyons, 1.
208 ; of Mayencc, ri. 270 ; in Mthn,
description of. I. 242, 247, 254 ; al
Spires, II. 233 ; S. Anlhony^s, m
Fadua, i. 286 ; S. John and Paul in
Venice, description o( 36I-
Cicero, travels of, i. 129.
Ciconia, Pascalis, Duke of Veoice,
Palma castle built by, iS93, i- 4ii-
Cimerica, Sibylla, prophecy of, tt. 159.
Cirinus, king of Liguria, Beij^o
built by, II. 49.
Claraval in Burgundy, S. Benani,
abbot of, II. 236.
Clarke, Josias, Anagrain, on Thoaas
Coryat by, I. 81.
Ciau(l]a,motherof Constantius Chlarus,
buried at Spires, II. 131.
Claudius, Flavius, Emperor, and ihc
battle near Lago di Como, ir. 40.
Clavel, William, panegyric verses ra»
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 35-36.
Clermont, Thomas Coryat at, I. 167 ;
dynasiyof thecountsof,i6S; coimcii
of, in France, 1094, 11. 238.
Cleve, capital of Cleveland, IL 353,
3S6.
Cleveland, Duke of, titles of, II. 135.
Clifton, Anna, epitaph of, by Geor^
Coryat, 11. 404.
Clock of Strasburg, description of,
II. 187.
Clodovcus (ClovisX king of Franc«,aiid
the churchof S. Fclix and S. Reguli
ai Zurich, 11. 97 ; and tbe bi^i^
of Worms, c. 500, 260.
Cloister of S. Felix and S. Regula
church, monumenis of, 11. 98.
Cloistcrs in Basle calhedrai, 11, 160
Coblentz by thc Mosella and Rhitie,
II. i;4.
noi
Cocbarus, river, tributary oF the
Neekar, ii. 208.
Coctiae, Alps, froni king Coctius, i. 325.
Coctius, king, victor o( ihe ancient
Gauls, I. 23;.
Colen, see Cologne.
Coleon, Barthelmcw, of Bergomo,
captain of the Venetians, i. 420 ;
picture of, in Venice, 361 ; monu-
ment of, in Bergamo cathedral,
II. 50.
Colmaria in Alsatia, 11. iBi.
Cologne by the Rhine, 11. 1 54 ; couocil
of, 348, 260 ; S. Maternus, first
apostle of, 310 ; Scaliger^s verscs
on, 311 ; founders of, 313 ; descrip-
tion of, 313 ; calhedral and churches
of, 314; the Magi, and the other
saints in, 329 ; bishopric of, 334 ;
S. Ursula's churcfa in, 337 ; Mac-
cabees' church in, 340 ; university of,
348 ; Attila at, 348 ; distance from,
to Nimeguen, 376.
Colonia, see Coiogne.
Colossus, stone, near Mayencc, erecled
by Drusus Ncro, II. 276.
Como, Lago di, or Lacus Larius,
dcscriplion of, 11. 40.
Companies, city, in Venice, 1. 389.
Cond^, Prince of, al Konlainebleau,
I. 195.
Confederation of Switierland, 1316,
II. 103 ; of Rhaelia, 90.
Conrad H.,Empcror,sumamed Salicus,
cathedral of Spires founded by,
c. 1030, II. 233.
Conrad the Wise, monument of, in
Worms, II. 267.
Consilio di Dieci, in the palace of the
duke of Venice, i. 340 ; after the
Roman Dccemviri, 1. 41S.
Conslantine, Emperor, eross of, kepl
in Brescia, il. 44 ; at Chur, 354, ^o.
Conslantius Chlorus, founder of Spires,
II. 231.
Contarcno, Thomaso, PodestS of
Padua, I. 294.
Contarens, Cardinal, ComimmLitallhof
Vtnia translated into Enghsh,
I- 3-
Contarenus, and thc public schools of
Germany, I. 135.
Copemicus, Nicolaus, his statue on thc
Strasburg clock, 11. 188.
Corbet, Richard, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, I. 70-71.
Corfii, or Corcyra Island, subjcet to
Venice, I. 421.
Comelius, Marcus, bishop of Padua,
I. 293.
Corpus Christi eeremonies in Paris,
described by Thomas Coryat, i. 176-
178, 182.
Corvinus, Messala, Roman orator,
II. I5a
Coryat, Rcv. Gcorge, Postkuma frag-
mtnla poematum of, Ii. 377-407.
Coryat, Thomas, dedicatory episllc to
Henry, Prinec of Wales, by, I. i-6 ;
his epislle lo the reader, 7-15 ;
charaeter of, by Ben Jonson, 16-18 ;
acrostic on, by Ben Jonson, 19;
verses by, 120; Carolus Wimier
of ihe Praemonstratenian Order
and, t6i ; his cpistles to Gaspar
Waserus, II. 113-121 ; answer of
Gaspar Waserus to, 122-123: his
epistle to Rodolphus Hospinianus,
123-126 ; his epistte to Henry Bul-
linger, 127-130; hisepistleioMarcus
Buelerus, 130-134; answerof Marcus
Buelerus to, 135-136; to the Princc
of Wales, 379.
Cosmograpky by Munster, 1. 421 ; 11.
109.
Cotton, Rowland, panegync v
Thomas Coryat by, !. 32-33.
Courtesans in Venice, I. 401-409.
Courtney, Edward, Earl of Devonshire,
buried in Padua, 1. 287.
Courts of Parliament in France, i.
179-
Cranficld, Lionei, panegyne verses on
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 63-64-
Crema, sec Cremona.
Crcmona, Sealiger^s verses on, 1. 257 ;
besieged by the French, 160 ; subjeel
10 Venice, i. 42a
Crescens, first apostle of Mayence,
II. 274.
Crocodile, stuffed in Padua, descrip-
of, I. 290.
Cross of Emperor Constantine
Brescia, 11. 44.
Crown, iron, of the Lombard kings
Modoetia, I. 252 ; of ihorns,
Chrisi, II. 4.
Cumana, Stbylla, prophecy of, I
I
CORYAT-S CRUDITIES
Cunegunda, wifc of Henry II- thc
Cunimundus, father of Queen Rosa-
mund, II. 38.
Cups, woodcD, used in SwiizerLand,
11. 67,
Curia, see Chur.
Ciirio,CaeliusSecundus, 1.233 ; ^itaph
of, at Basle, 11. 164, 165.
Curio, Leoni, san of, epitapb of. at
Basle, II. 165.
Cunabatus, Joannes, and Thomas
CoryatatMezoit, 11.62; atChiavcnna,
65.
Cutlenbergius, joannes (Gutenberg),
printing iDvented by, 1440, 11. 177.
Cuve OD the Rhine, 11. 300.
Cyprus Island, sometjme subjcct to
Venice, I. 431.
Cyrus, iiavels of, i, 135.
Dagobert, kinjj, monument and epitaph
of, at S. Denis, i. 1S3 ; bishopric
of Strasburg f^unded by, c. 630,
11. 193 ; and thc heathen lemples in
Spires,il. 2SI.
Dalburgius, Joaunes, counsellor to
Ludovicus and afierwards bishop of
Worms, II. 2;8, 267.
Danube, Trajan's bridge over ihe,
I. 309.
Dasypodius, Conradus, architea of the
clocL of Strasburg, II. 1S7.
Daulus, Zenus, consul of Padua, L 305.
Dauphin or Dolphin, origin of the title
Davis, John, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 101-107.
Decemviri^ Roman, modei of the
" Consilio di Dicd," i. 418.
Decius, Emperor, and the seventh
persecution of the chuich, 11. 33 :
and Philippus Aiabs, 11. 37.
Delph in Holland, death of William
Prince of Orange ai, 11. 225.
Delphica, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 258.
Delphinus, Dionysius, bishop of
Vicenia in Coryat^s ttme, 11. 12.
Denmarke, king of, Veneiian gentle-
man, 1425,1.415.
Desensan, Tbomas Coryat at, 11. 39.
Desiderius, last king of Ihe Longo-
bardes, i. 235 ; nunnery ai Brescia
built by, 750, II. 4S-
Deuti, on ihe Rhine, «ytn
II. 348.
Dia/ogue^bjjosias SimlenisTtgiiriK
I. 394-
Diana's tempte in Spires, II 150 ;#
molished by Dagobert, 351.
Dictionary, Latin, by Ambnose C*
pine, iL 54.
Dier, Edwaid, Ceorge Coryai i
n.404.
Digges, Dudley, panegj-ric verses ■
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 31-32.
Dijon in Burgundy, Court of Paris
ment, L 179-
Dion Cassius. Greek author, 1. 309.
Dionet. king of Britain, latbei of
S. Ursula, II. 336.
Disertinuro, abbot or, and the o»
federation of Rhetia, 1414, IL ga
Dodo, Pctrus, captain of Padn^ l
293.
Doit, Dulch coin, 11. 365.
Domitian, Emperor, and ifae fiie&
1. 268.
Domo or Cathedral in Italy, L 29;.
Donato, Leonardo, Duke of VeaKA
L 309, 41 8.
Dones, John, pancgyric vetses <K
Thomas Coiyal by, 1. 71.
Donne, John, pancgyric verses oi
Thoraas Coryal by, (. 37-39.
Doole, palace of Dordrccht, built bi
the Earl of Leicestcr, Ii. 367.
Dordrecht, Thomas Coryat at. il 363:
maidcn city of Holland, 364 ; situ
tion of, 365 ; churches of, 3^ r dis-
tance from, 10 Flushing, 376
Dorso Duro, quarter in Vcnice, 1. 306
Dotrula, prefect, Lombard tyiam,
I- 23S-
Dourlans, Hcmand Teillo, govemoKi
1. 165.
Dover, distance fi-om, to Calai^ t
301.
Drayton, Michael, panegyric verseJ m
Thomas Coiyat by, 1. 97-98.
Drepanum, haven in Sicily, i. 184.
Dress wom in Venice, 1. 398 ; br
womcn, 399; of gentlewomen i»
Bergamo, II. 55 ; of the Swiss 1=
Zurich, 105-106; of women inStiasi'
burg, 191 ; of Helvetians, 173.
Drinkmg in Germany, 11. 174; in ibc
Netherlands, 360.
i Ncro, and the stone Colossus
' Mayence, li. 276 ; battles of,
; deaih of, at Bingen, 296.
jon, silvcr coin in Venice, I. 422.
d, M., Proiestant preacher at
renten, i. 185.
Idorf in Clcveland, Thoroas
prata
I- 350-
Cleveland, Gerardus
cator buried at, II. 351.
idorp, see Dusseldoif.
[uakes al Basle, 1346, 1356, II.
ardus, Duke of Ftanconia, baltlc
Itho the Great wilh, at Ander-
1, II. 307-
iastica! Hislory, by Eusebius,
'1-
ds, Thomas, MonosHches by,
ation from, II. ;6.
phus, fourth King of the Longo-
Is, I. 260 ; at Mantua, 267.
)n, Mode of, in Venice, i. 41Q.
etb, Empress, Kiningsfelden
astery founded by, 1408, 11. 144.
eth, Queen, George Coryat in
seof, 11, 381-384.
eth, wife of Rupertus, Duke of
, Laurence, panegyric vcrscs on
mas Coryat by, I. gg-ioi.
(rich, Thomas Coryal at, 11. 356.
s, on the Rhine, II. 306.
ipius, Nicolaus, princer of Basle,
72.
,us of Rotterdam, monurnent of,
he caihedral of Uasle, 11. 158;
;e of Rodolphus Agricola by.
la, Ji. 96.
lus, see Po.
:aea,Sibylla,prophecy of, 11. 258.
us, Hortmannus, prefect of
ch and Thomas Coryat, 11. 100.
bach, Walterus de, and the
der of Emperor Albert, 11. 145 ;
:h of, 146.
n the Signiory of Veoice, I. 269.
en, antique town near Baden
Tutlowe, 11. 203.
:rius, disciple of S. Denis, i.
; shrine of, 185.
Eugenios IV., Pope, and ihe CouDcil
of Basle, i43'i n. 172.
Euphrates, Archbishop of Cologne,
deposcd by ihe Council of Cologne,
348, 11. 260.
Europaca, Sibylla, prophecy of, 11. 25^
Eusebius, bishop of Cacsarea, his
account of the martyrs of Lyons, 1.
207 ; EccUsiastiial Htstory o/, 11.
168.
Eustorgius, bishop of Milan, and the
bodies of the Magi, 11. 339.
Exchange of the merchants in Paris,
descripiionof, 1. 172; of Venice, 313 ;
of Bergamo, li. 53 ; at Frankport,
292.
I. 305,
Faraagusta, or Salarais Island and the
Turks, I. 421.
Families, noble, in Vcnice, i, 414.
Fans, used in llaly, 1. 256.
Famaby, Thomas, alias Bainrafe,
panegyric verses on Thomas Coryat
by, I. 81-33.
Fastrada, fourth wife of Charles the
Great, 783, 11. 264 ; death of, at
Mayence, 281.
Feasts, religious, in Venice, 1. 388.
Feiix V., Pope, formerly Amadeus, ist
duke of Savoy, 1. 2i8 ; and the coundl
of Basle, 1431, II. 172.
Fenton, William, panegyric veri
Thomas Coryat by, I. 73-74.
Ferdinandus Primua Caesar, sia
in the Senate House of Worms, II.
262.
Ferivarius, John, travels of, i. 129.
Fcrroe monte, Franciscivs de, work of,
in Ber)^mo Cathedral, II. 52.
Ferry, descripiion of a, in Italy, 1. J33.
Field, James, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 115-116.
Fighls, street, in Venice, 1. 413.
Firtle, German measure, ii. 219.
Fiessinga, see Fiushing.
Florentus IV., Earl of Holland 'and
Zeland, It. 369.
Flogius, Joannes, bishop of Chur in
Coryafs time, 11. 89.
Flushing, or Ulissingen in Wakheren
Island, drinking habits of, ii. 360,
372 i eiymoiogy of, 374 ; distancc
from, lo London, 375-376.
Foelix, see Felix.
Foniainebleau, Tbomas Coryai at, 1.
185 ; forest of, 186; palace of, 187 ;
gardens of, 188.
Fontigo, ihe, in Venice, descripiion of,
I. 384-
Food in Venice, 1. 395.
Forest, Black, or Nigra Sylva, Ihe
Neckar^s source in, 11. 208.
Foreat, Oitonica, near Heidelberg, 11.
209.
Forks, used in Italy, I. 236.
fracastorius, Hieronymus, of Padua,
I. 298.
Francis 1., baitle between, and Charles
V. near Turin, i. 230 ; prisoner at
Piiighiton, 255.
Franckendal, Tbomas Coryat at, II.
252.
Frankforl, Scaliger^s verses on, II.
287-288 ; Thomas Coryat at, 288-
293 ; descriplion of, 288 f. ; eleclion
of ihe King of the Romans at, 289 ;
fairs at, 290, 292 ; distance from, to
Colopne, 376.
Fredenck I., Barbarossa, II. 23; ; at
Padua, 1 1 70, 1. 273 ; and Pope Alex-
ander III. al Venice, 1 166. 349.
Frederick II,, and ihe lown and tower
of Turlowe, 11. 205 ; Counl Pala-
tine, and ihe Popish chutch, 1 546,
226 ; Emperor, marriaee of, with
Isabella, daughter of King John of
England, at Worms, 1235, 266.
Frederick III., Emperor, picture of,
in cbe Senale House of Worms, il.
261 ; deaib of, at Liniz, 1493, 307.
Frederick IV., Count Palatine, manu-
script book by the greal-grandfather
of, kepi in Heidelberg library, 11.
Frederick, Duke of Austria, and ihe
Swiss Confederaiion, 11. 103.
Freeboolers, near the Rhine, 11. 308.
Fregosius, Janus, monument of, in S.
Anastasia's church in Verona, 11.
34.
Friburg, ciiyof, against Ziirich, 11. 108.
Frisius, Joannes Jacobus, leamed man
of Zunch, II. III.
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Frisius, Nicolaus, at Spires, tL 251.
Frobenius, Hicrome, pnnter of B*dt
II. 166, 172.
Frobenius, John, printer of BiiJe,
11. 172.
Frogs, used as food in Icaty, 1. i^;
in Rhaetia, 11. 64 ; lake of, at Ziirid,
96.
Fuder, German measure. 11. 219.
Fulco, Earl of Anjou, travels of, I. Iji
Fulda, abbey of, founded by Boni^c
II. 274.
Fulgosus, Rapbacl, of Padua, t. 39&
Funerals in Verona, 11. 36.
Furcamountain, spring of ihe RhodasiE
ai, I. 205.
Furslenberg, wines of, 11. 299.
Fuscarus, Duke of Venice, I. 334 ; Md
Che King of Denmark, 1425, I-415.
Gabriel, archbishop of Philadclpbii,
and Thomas Coryal, at Venice, 1.
369.
Gaieatius, Joannes, Viscouni of Milam,
and Verona, 11. 39.
Gaileys, Venetian, 1. 359 ; and slatts
in Venice, 414.
Gallows at Boulogne, description oi,
!. 158 j al Abbeville, 160 ; al Gn-
monl, 168; on Mount Falcon, 170;
of alabaster in Ventce, 330 ; it
Rheinfelden, 11. 151 ; near Frank-
fon, 287 ; near the Rhine, 308.
Garda, see Benacus.
Garden of Earl Leonardus Walmaiani
in Vicenia, description of, 11. 6.
Gardens of Fontaincbteau, 1. 188.
Gardo, see Benacus.
Gamet, Henry, picture of, at Colognt,
11- 349'
Gaspar, second wise king, offers tnii-
incense, II. 326.
Gatcameliia, and the reducing <i
Padua 10 the signiory of Venice.
1402, I. 274; statuc of, 286; of
Namia, renowned capiain of tiK
Venetians, 420,
Gazet, Venetian tin coin, I. 422.
Gelderland, province of the Nethu-
lands, 11-357-
Gemusaeus, Hieronymus, professot a
Basle, II. 171.
Cenebria, leamed woman of Veroiu,
II. 39-
Cenepe, Culielmus de,
in Cologne, II. 334.
Genet, M. de la, deputy-governor of
Calais, and Thomas Coryat, 1. 151.
Gcography^ '\yj Plolomaeus, 11. 256.
Gerbirga, wife of Gisleberius, 11. 307.
Gennany, universitics in, number of,
I. 8 ; praise of, by Bodin, 132 ; Pope
Leo's ambassadors in, 133; Con-
tarenus and the public schools of,
135 ; piaise of, by Bodin, 11. 76 ;
Thomas Coryat's description of,
178-311 ; etymologyof, 179; George
Sidenham's verses on, 181-183,
Germersheim, death of Radolph of
HapsburK at, 1291, II. 23$.
Gesnerus, Conradus, leamed man of
Zurich, on Petnis Aponus, 1. 180 ;
Bibtiolheca by, 394 ; 11. 98, iii.
Ghelto, the, in Venice, description of
I. 370 ; in Verona, 11. 31.
Gisela, daughler of Lolharius, king of
France, wife of Conrad II., li. 734.
Gislebertus, Dukeof Lorraine, diowned
near Andemach, 11. 307.
Glareanus, Henricus, professor at
Basle, 11. 171.
Class, Venetian, 1. 387.
Codard, roountain, highest Alpine
mountain, 11. 176.
Godfrey, Duke of Bouillon, and the
first Crusade, IC94, 11. 338.
Golden Lyon, Thomas Coryat's inn
at Lower Uaden, Ei. zoz.
Gondolas, descripiion of, i. 313.
Goniaga, Viceniius, Duke of Mantua,
I. 231 ; palace of, i6s.
Gonzaga, William, father of Vincenlius
Gonzaga, 11. 8.
Goodier, Henry, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, I. 28.
Gorcom, see Goikum.
Goricia, Meinhard, Earl of, 11. 144.
Gorkum, on the Waell, Thomas Coiyat
at, 11. 361 ; beauiy of, 362.
Gospel of S. Maik, kept in Venice, 1.
355-
Gothofrcdus, Dionysius, civil iawyer
in Heidelberg, 11. 230,
Goths in Piedmont, i. 230.
"^ by ihe Venelian nobility,
I-397.
Granson, baille of, Swiss a
1476, 1.
Giatarolus, Gulielmus, famous preacher
of Bergamo, II. 60 ; Icamed man of
Baste, 171.
Gralian, Emperor, II. 153; and the
name of Amiens, 1. 161 ; Germans
defeated by, near Strasburg, II, 193.
Graveling, M. de Rosne, govemor of,
I. 156.
Gregory VII., 01 Hildebrand, Pope,
and the golden crown of Rodolphus,
Eail of Kheinfelden, 11. 151; deposed
by the fourth Council of Worms, 11.
265.
Grenoble, or Gralianopolis, in Dol-
phinie, Court of Parliament, i. 179.
Giiffin, Ceoige, panegyiic verses on
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 101.
Grimanno, Maiino, Duke of Venice in
Thomas Cor>'at's time, i. 309 ; in
Corj^at^s time, his picture, 425.
Grimannus, Caidinal, patriarch of
Aquileia, 1. 321.
Grimston, Edward, history of the
Netherlands by, II. 371.
Grisons, sec Rhaetia.
Gritti, Petcr, Venelian palace of, II. 15.
Groninga, Rodolphus Agricola, born
at, II. 22?.
Giuierus, Janus, biblioihecary 01
libiarian of the Palatine libiary, 11.
Giyii, Hermannus, and the slaying of
the lion, in Cologne, 11. 344.
Crynaeus, Joannes Jacobus, of Basle,
woiks of, II. 168.
Grynacus, Sim
Guallerus, Rodolphus, leamed r
Zurich, II. 98, III.
Guard, French, I. 191
Guaslo, Albertus, Marquess of, and
the arscnal of Venicc, 1. "
opinion on Venice, 427.
Guasto or Wasie plot in Italy, 11. 2.
Guerilio, last archbishop of Worms,
deposed by Pepin, king of Francc,
II. 260.
Gucrilius, Joan
friend to Thomas Coryal, I. 367.
Guido, Duke of Spoleto, 11. s^-
Guinlcrius, Joannes, leamed man
Strasburg, II. 19J ; bom at Andei-
nach, 306.
Guise, Duke of, his broiber, and
Thomas Coryai at Lyons, ). 213.
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Gulick, see Menapii.
Gulielmus,bishop of Worms in Coryat^s
time, II. 257, 261.
Gunterus, Earl, competitor of Charles
IV. for the German empire, li. 292.
Gyfford, John, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, i. 67-69.
Gymnosophist, meaning of^ i. 58, note.
Habspurg, John of, prisoner at Zurich,
1350, II. 108.
Habspurg, Rodolphus de, li. 147.
Hagk, Christopher, Coryat^s fellow-
traveller, 11. 35^
Hair, dying of the, in Venice, i. 401.
Halles, salt mines at, 11. 144.
Halswell, Robert, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, i. 67.
Harrington, John, of Bath, panegyric
verses on Thomas Coryat by, I. 27.
Hartmannus, son of Empress Anna,
II. 1 59 note.
Harvests, two in Italy, l. 268 ; in Ger-
many, 11. 206.
Hassia, Landgraviat of Germany, 11.
301 note.
Hatto, archbishop of Mayence, history
of, 914, II. 297.
Haunschildt, George, scholar of Her-
mannus Kirchnerus, i. 122.
Health, bills of, required to travel into
Italy, I. 214.
Hedio, Gaspar, reformer in Strasburg,
II. 194.
Heidelberg by the Neckar, li. 154;
Scaliger^s verses on, 207 ; etymolog ies
of, 208 ; churches of, 209 ; distance
from, to Frankfort, 376.
Helena, town near the Pyrenees, ll.
Helena, Empress, and the bodies of
the Magi, li. 329.
Helenopolis, see Frankfort.
Hellespontia, Sibylla, prophecy of, il.
258.
Helmichildus and Queen Rosamund,
II. 38-
Helvetia, see Switzerland.
Henneberg, Margarite, wife of Her-
mannus, Earl of, li. 369.
Henricpeter, Sebastian, printer of
Basle, II. 172.
Henry II., King of France, and the
Louvre, i. 173.
Henry II^ tfae Saint, German £■•
peror, 11. 22^.
Henry III., king' <^ France,aDdAe
Order of the Holy Ghost, L 193; n
Venice, 1574, l. 309; testimonj<(
338 ; Venetian £^tleman, 1574» 41)-
Henry III., the Black, German Ea-
peror, cathedral of Spires finiski
by, II. 233 ; son of Conrad II^ n. -
234; and the third Coandl d
Worms, lo^i, 11. 265.
Henry IV., King of France, at Rom,
I. 165 ; death of, 168 ; his pictiirem
Venice, 425.
Henry IV., the elder, Emperor of
Germany, son of Henry III. aad
Agnes, IL 234 ; and the foarfi
Council of Wormsy 1076, 11. 265.
Henry V., the younger, Emperor of
Germany, son of Henry IV. aid
Bertha, ii. 234 ; and the fifthConocS
of Worms, 11 22, 11. 265.
Henry VII., Emp^ror of Gennai^
and John of Swabia at Pisa, n. 1461
Henry, Prince of Wales, dedieatof;
epistle to, by Thomas Coryat, L 1-6;
his picture in Venice, L 426 ; TboiBis
Coryat to, II. 379.
Henry, last Earl of Baden, 1180^ H
138.
Heraclea, town of, dwelling-place d
the first Dukes of Venice, l. 418.
Herbert, William, George Coryat in
memory of, II. 386 f.
Herbome, John Piscator at, ll. 195.
Hercinia or Nigra Sylva, Wiesi^
spring from, II. 155.
Hercules, travels of, I. 13$.
Hercules, Alemmanus, sumame ci
IL 179.
Hermannus, first Marquess of Badeo,
II 53, II. 200.
Hermenstein Castle, near Coblenz, U-
306.
Hervagius, Joannes, printer at Bask,
II. 172.
Hildegardis, Lady, daughter of Idng
Ludovicus, II. 99.
Hildegardis, S., nun at Bingen, frieod
of S. Beraard, 1 180, 11. 296 ; wwks
of, 297.
Hildegardis, wife of Charles the Giea:
and mother of Ludovicus Pius, n.
282.
430
Hinderhove, or baths of Baden, ii.
139- 143.
Hipiiolytus, Lord President of the
Prinees' Chancery Coojl, verses de-
dicated to. ii. 2:1-223.
History, EccUsiaslicat, of Eusebius,
11. 16S.
Hochberg, title of the Marquesses of
Baden, n. loo; Otto, Marquess of,
deathof, 11. 148.
Hoestenius, Henry, printer of the
university of Leyden, II. 221.
Holland, Hugo, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 43-49 ; friend
of Thomas Coryat, 425.
HoUand, meaning of, 11. 362.
Honorius, Emperor, 409, 1. 305.
Horses of the King of France at
Fontainebleau, 1. 190 ; used to draw
boats on the Rhine, II. 361.
Hortmannus, last earl of Kyburg,
1260, II. 138.
Hoskins, John, panegyric ^'erses od
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 58-61.
Hospinianus, Rodolphus, leamed man
of Zurich, 11. 95 ; Thomas Cory3i's
epistle to, 123-126.
Hotoman, francis, epitaph of, al
Basle, 11. 162-164.
Houses, Venetian, I. 307 ; at Spira,
description of, 11. 232.
Hughes, Richard, panegric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, I. 119.
Humbertus, Bishop, and the stone
bridge over the Arar, I. 205.
laxus river, iributaiy of ihe Neckar,
II. 208.
lUa, river in plain of Strasburg, 11.
183.
Imbert, or Hubert, Dauphin of Vien-
nois and Philip VL, ijiS, I. 194-
Ingelheim Palace, Charles the Great
at, II. 217 ; Court at, 265.
lntuergi, people dwelling formerly in
Palatinate, 11. 224.
Irenaeus, lirst bishop of Lyons, I. 209 ;
II. 168.
Irene, Empress, and the sacred images,
I. 368.
Irenicus, Francis,historiographer,bom
at Ethngen, 11. 203.
Irmengardis, first wife of Ludovicus
Pius, II. 293.
Isabelia, daughter of King John of
Eogland, marriage of Emperor
Fredetick II. with, 1235, 11. 266.
Isella, branchof iheRhine, 11. 177.
Isingrius, Michael, ptinter of Basie,
II. 166, 172.
Isota Nigarola, learned woman of
Vcrona, 11. 39.
llalians,courtesy of,toforeigners, II. 13.
Italy, Thomas Coryat in, 1. 227, 428.
Jackson, John, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, I. 96.
Jacobus, Cardinal,epistlefrom Angelus
Politianus to, II. 177.
James I., King of England, his picture
in Venice, 1, 425, 426.
James, Thomas, Librarian of the
Bodleian Library at Oxford in
Coryat's time, II. 211.
Jason, travels of, i. 132.
Jesuits' College at Lyons, description
of, I. 209; in Chambery, 117; at
Turin, 232 ; in Spires, II. 249.
Jews in Venice, description of, 1. 372.
Joan, Pope, bom at Mayence, 11. 382.
Joannes Baplista, bishop of Bergamo,
Ealace of, II. 53.
n, Don, and the battle of Lepanto,
I. 289. 344-
John, Duke of Swabia, and the murder
of Emperor Albert, II. 144 ; punish-
ment of, 146.
John, eatl of Habspurg, prisoner at
Zurich, 1330, II. 108.
Jonson, Ben, character of Thomas
Coryat by, i. 16-18 ; a
Thomas Coryat by, 19.
Jones, Inigo, panegyric
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 64-65.
Jovius, Paulus, study of, on Lago di
Como, 11. 64.
Jucundus, bishop of Paris, 1. 171.
Judith, Countess, wife of Hermannus,
Marquess of Baden, IJ. 200.
Juelli, Jobn, bishop of Salisbury, epi-
laph of, by George Coryat, 11. 403.
Julian theAposiaie, Ammanianus Mar-
ceUinus, soldier of, II. 1^3 ; battle
of, with some German kmgs, near
Slrasburg, 360, 193; Mayence bridgc,
built by, 280.
Junius, Adrianus, monuments of, in
Middleborough Church, 11. 373.
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Junius, Francis, learned man of Hei-
delberg, ii. 229.
Jura Mountain, Byrsa's spring from,
II. 155.
Justmian, I., Emperor, c. 550, L 273.
Justinus, Emperor, and Narses, I. 237.
Justinus, martyr at Lyons, l. 209.
Justus, Augustinus, paLace of, in
Verona, 11. 35.
Keinperger, Jonas, head of the Jesuits
in Spires and Thomas Coryat, IL
249.
Kelsterbach, on the Rhine, 11. 287.
Kemerer, Eckenbertus, founder and
first abbot of Franckendal monas-
tery, c. 11 19, ll. 252.
Kicherman, Bartholomew, philoso-
pher at Heidelberg, 11. 230.
Kigele, Joannes, architect in Worms,
IL 262.
Kingman, Robert, Englishman settled
in Strasburg, 11. 183.
Kings, the Three, of Cologne, 11. 31^ ;
images of, 317; history of, Latm,
.318-325 ; English, 325"330-
Kiningsfelden, monastery of, near
Brooke, ll. 139 ; Thomas Coryat at,
143 1 possession of Beme, 143 ;
meaning of name, 11. 144.
Kintzgus, river, in plain of Strasburg,
IL 183.
Kirchnerus of Marpurg, Hermannus,
orations by, L 4, 11, 122-148; in
praise of travel in Germany, li.
71-86.
Kni^hthood, orders of, i. 193.
Konmgsperg, birth-place of Christopher
Hagk, II. 350.
Kyburg, Earls of, and the Swiss con-
federation, li. 103 ; and the earldom
of Baden, 138.
La Bevelaque, Thomas Coryat at, l.
269.
La Chambre, Thomas Coryat at, l. 223.
La Charit^, Thomas Coryat at, i. 198.
Ladenburgum, palace of, residence of
the bishops of Worms, 11. 257.
La Fere, in Picardie, Archduke Albert
at, I. 156.
Lahnstein on the Rhine, ll. 305.
Langres, Voga Hill, near, i. 171 ;
spring of the Mosella at, li. 305.
Larius, Lacus, or Lake Como, meamif
of name o( il. 65.
Lasnebourg, or Lanslebouig, Thooas
Coryat at, l. 224.
La Tour du Pin, Thomas Coryat t,
L 215.
Laudun, Monastery of, Maigarite d
Henneberg, buried in, li. 369L
Lauredanus, Leonardus, Duke d
Venice, tomb and epitaph o( L 361
Lauredanus, Peter, Duke of Vema^
1568, L 361.
Lavaterus, Ludovicus, leamed man of
Zurich, IL 98, II I.
Lecca, branch of the Rhine, 11. 177.
Leicester, Earl ol^ mint of Dordredit,
built by, II. 366 ; tfae Doole, boih
l>y> .367 ; Georgc Coryat to, 396£
Lemnius, Levinus, leamed man of
Zirixee, IL 371.
Leo, Pope, his ambassadors to Ger-
many, i. 133.
Leo Ifl., Greek Emperor, and tfae
sacred images, I. 368.
Leo IX., Pope, and the third comidl
of Worms, 105 1, 11. 265.
Leopold, Duke of Austria and tbe
Swiss confederation, IL 103 ; and
the murderers of Emperor Albext,
146; buried at Brooke Monastery,
147 ; wars and death of, 148.
Lepanto in Greece, Don John of
Austria, at the batde of, i. 289, 344.
Lewis 1 1. of Germany, battle of Ciuuies
the Bald with, at Andemach, IL 306.
Lewknor, Ludovic, panegyric vcrses
on Thomas Coryat by, i. 27-28.
Lezere, lake or river in Savoy, i. 205,
221.
Library of Mayence, li. 279 ; in Holy
Ghost Church, Heidelberg, 209.
Libyca, Sibylla, prophecy o^ ll. 259.
Liege, death of Henry IV. at, 1106,
n. 234.
Lieutenant of the Castle, of the land
cities, subject to Venice, i. 42a
Limacus river at Baden, 11. 137;
Zurich on, 154.
Lime tree, description of a, in Basle,
IL 169.
Lindanus, Gulielmus, leamed man of
Dordrecht, bishop of Ruremunda,
II. 368.
Linga river, near Dordrecht, 11. 365.
432
INDEX
LiDgelscmius, Doctor of Civil Law at
Heidelberg, and Thomas Coryat, ii.
21 4, 23a
Liniago, in the signiory of Venice,
I. 269.
Linti, on the Rhine, dcath of Frederick
ni.at, 1493, 11.307.
Lio, castle for soldiers of Venicc, i.
388.
Lippia, river, at Cleve, 11. 353.
Lipsius, Justus, rriend of James
Grutenis in Heidelberg, 11. 310.
Lir Lake, near Splugen Mountain,
n. 67.
Litenawe, Thomas Coryal at, tl. 196.
Liver, Veneiian coin, value of, i. 3B9 ;
silvcr coin, 42J.
Livy, three statues of, ai Padua, 1.
37Si 277i 278 ; his house, 281-285.
Loches, Lodowic, Duke of Milan,
prisoner at, 1500, i. 239.
Lodi, Thomas Coryat at, i. 254.
X«dowic, Duke of Milan, and the
Swiss and French armies at Novara,
1500, 1.239.
Loire, river in France, I. 197.
Loiseau de Tourval, Jean, panegyric
verses on Thomas Coryat by, 1. 1 1 1-
Lombardy, past history of, i. 237 ;
fenility of, 238.
London, disiance from, 10 Dover,
I. 301 ; Thomas Coryat's return lo,
u. 37S ; distance from, to Odcombe,
376.
Longinus, first exarch of Ravcnna and
Queen Rosamund, 11- 38.
Longobards in Piedmoni, I. 230; past
history of the, 237.
Longolius, Christopher, of Fadua,
I. 298.
Lotharius, Empetor, and the Nor-
manes, 1. 197.
Loure, sec Louvre.
Louvre, description of thc palace of,
I 173-
Loyola, Ignatius, founder of thc
Jesuics, II. 360.
Lucernc, an ally of Ziirich, II. 108 ;
on the Ursula, 154.
Lucic Fesina, ncar Padua, 1. 300,
394-
Ludolphus, son of Otho the Great,
battle of, with his father II. 280 ;
death of, 2S1.
Ludovica, wife of Frederick IV., Count
Palat
[. J2S.
Ludovicus It., sumamed Germanicus,
Emperor, and the second ciuncil of
Worms, 868, 11., 265, dcath of, at
Frankfort, 293.
Ludovicus Pius, Empcror, and Ihe first
CouncilofWorms, 829, II. 26;;dcath
of, ai Mayence, 282.
Ludovicus, king of llaly, grandson of
Charles che Bald, II. 38.
Ludovicus, Count Palatine, 1319, 11.
212; and Joannes Dalbui^ius, his
counsellor, 228.
Ludovicus, dauphin of France (after-
wards Louis XI.) and the Helve-
tlans, near Basle, 11. 173.
Lugarda, wifc of Conrad the Wise
11. 367.
Luietia, meaning of, I. [71-
Luthcr, Martin, and thc Witti
univcrsily. II. 194.
Lycosthenes, Conradus, profcsj
Basle, II. 171-
Lycurgus, cravels of, I. 13;.
Lycus, river in Rhctia, II. 63.
Lyons, Thomas Coryat at, I. 202-214 ;
Julius Caesar Scaligcr^s hexasnchon
on, 203 ; Fontius Fi[ate's exile and
deach aC, 207 ; distance from, to
Turin, 301 ; on the Arar and Rho-
danus, 11. 1^4.
Macaronicon, by John Donnc, I. 39.
Maccabees, m.irtyrdom of che, 11. 340.
Magantia, Alcxander, work o^ in
Viccnia, 11. 12.
Magi, see Kings of Cologne.
Mag^icntius, Empcror, proclaimed at
Chur
II. 91.
, statue of, in Verotia, II. 28.
Mainc, river, at Frankfort, II. :".
Malomocco, haven of Venice, i. 304 ;
dweliing-place of thc Brst Dukes of
Venice, near, 1. 418.
Malta or Melita, S. Paul and the viper
at, I. 412.
Mammea,motherofAlexanderSeverus,
death of, at Mayencc, 11. 281.
Mandevile,SirJohn,'EngIishUlysses,'
"■ 303-
CORYAT'S CKUDITIES
Manes, the heretic martyr in Persia,
I. 363.
Mannus, son of Tuisco, 11. 179.
Mantua, Vicentius Gonzaga, Duke of,
I. 231 ; Thomas Coryat at, a6i ;
Scaliger^s verses on, 262 ; birth-place
of Virgil, 263.
Marcelliaus, Ammanianus, soldier of
Julian the Apostaie, 11. 152 ; on the
etymology 01 Palatinate, |[. 224.
Marcomirus, king of Francc, and
Cologne, II. 313.
Maicus Aurelius, see Anloninus.
Margarita, ^miliana, monastery, built
by, near Venice, i. 387, 406.
Margarite, wifc of Hermannus, earl
of Henneberg, buried in Laudun
monaster^, 11. 369.
Maria Antiqua, church in Verona,
II. 27.
Marislella, Tliomas Coryat at, II. 136.
Market place of Brescia, il. 43 ; at
Chur, 91 ; in Verona, 29.
Maron. a guide or conductor in Iialy,
I. 226.
Marot, French poet, 1, 31 nole, 42
Marpurg, umversity of, 11. 71.
Martin, Richard, sonnet lo Thomas
Coryat by, I. 39 ; quotalion from a
letter of, 10 Thomas Coryat, 239 ;
letier from, to Sir Henry Woiton,
1608, 377-379-
Martock Manor, near Odcombe, in
Somersetshire, II. 203.
Martyr, Peter, the Vermilian, leamed
man ofZuricb, 11. 98.
Martyrs of Lyons, history of, by Euse-
bius, bishop of Caesarea, 1. 207 ; of
Brescia, ii. 46; of Zurich, 97 ; at
Mayenee, 282 ; Theban, buried in
S. Gereon's Church, Cologne, 342.
Mary, Virgin, picture of, by S. Luke,
the Evangelist, kept in Venice, 1. 355.
Masauc, Earl of, and the confederatioo
of Rhelia, 1424, 11. 90.
Mattiaci, former inhabitantsof Zeeland,
II. 372-
Maturus, martyr at Lyons, 1. 207.
Maurice of Orange, commander of the
Neiherland armies, 11. 225 ; towns
sacked by, 11. 352.
Mauritius, Prince, at Cassels, and the
Persian ambassadors, 11. S4.
Maurocenus, Francis, last bishop tf
Brescia in Coryat's time, 11. 43
Maurocenus, Vincentius, Venttja
knight, monument of, i. 38::.
Maurus, Rabanus, abbot of Fulii^
11. 275.
Maximiiian L, Emperor, and Vercni.
II. 29.
Maximilian II., statue of, in tU
Senate House of Wortns, 11. 162.
Maximinus and the murder of Alo-
ander Severus at Mayence, 11. jSi. [
Maximus, bishop of Turin, 420, i. 231,
Mayence, 11. 154 ; prefect of, aod ibi
cilyofWorms, II. 263; descripnad
of, 269 f.
Maze, river in Celderland, 11, 353-,
Medicis, Katharine de, description of
hcr monument ai S. Denis, i. 184.
Megander, Gaspar, leamed man cf
Zurich, II. III.
Meinhard, Earl of Tyrol and Gorid»,
II. 144.
Mejus, Octavianus, Protestant prcachn
!D Chiavenna, Ii. 65.
MelancthoD, Philip, his opinion on tbe
ctymology of Alemannia, 11. 179;
reformed preacher, 335 ; on Deuti,
34B ; verses on thc river Maine, 185.
Melchior, first king, oifers gold, IL
326.
Meleager, epigram of, I. 229.
Melissus, Paulus, poei and knight
Palatine at Heidelberg, II. ija
Menapii, former inhabitantsof Geldet-
land, 11. 3S7.
Meniana, or Italian lerracc, I, 307.
Menii, see Mayence.
Mercaior, Gerardus, buried at Duys-
burg, II. 351.
Merceria, streel in Venice, i, 328.
Mercurys temple in Spires, 11. 150;
demolished by Dagobert, 251.
Metva river, near Dordrechi, 11. 365.
Meiellus, Mlddleborough founded bc,
11. 372.
Mezolt, near Ancone Moiintain, U. 61.
Micyllus, Jacobus, learned man ci
Strasburg, II. 195 ; of StTasburE.
to Joachimus Camerarius of Heidei-
berg, 215.
Middleborough m Walcheren island,
n. 372; founded by Mctellus, 37] 1
church, 373.
Milan, Dukedom of, Spanish posses-
sion, I. 239.
Milan, Scaliget^s verses on, Thomas
Coryat at, 1. 240 ; hislory of the
foundation of, 241 ; Roman em-
perots in, 251; govemors of, 253;
disiance from, to Padua, 301 ; in
Emperor Martin's lime, and Attita,
305-
Milberg Castle at Badeo, 11. 199, 306.
Mimiingus river, Iributary of the
Maine, 11. 3S5.
Mincius river, I. 264.
Mint of S. Mark's in Venice, descrip-
tion of, I. 332; of Dordrecht, built
by the Earl of Leicester, 11. 366,
Mirandula, birth-place of Joannes
Picus, I. 261.
Misnia, Theodorus, Marquess of, and
Frederick Barbarossa, 1166, I. 35^
Mithtidates, travels of, to Cappadocia,
II. 74.
Mocenigus, Duke of Venice, and
HeDiy III., King of France, 1574,
1.415-
Modena, Duke of, i. 231.
Modoetia, iron crown of the Lombard
kings at, i. 252.
Moenus river, see Maine.
Mogonus, see Maine.
Moguntia, or Moguntiacum, see May-
Mohno, Clarisslmo of Venice, t. 393.
MoUdus, Peter, Protestant preat^er
at Charenton, I. 185.
Momford, Thoroas, panegyric verses
on Thomas Coryat by, 1, 77-78.
Monasteries at Amiens, 1. 164; at
Milan, 246; of Benedictine monks
in Padua, description of, 287 ; of
Benedictines in Venice, 380 ; at
Lyons, 2I0 ; built by Margarita
jCmiliana, near Venice, 387, 406 ;
of Camaldulenses, near Verona, 11.
16 ; in Verona, 35 ; of Carthusian
monks at Cobleni, 305 ; ofDomini-
cansin Vicenza,4 ; of Kiningsfelden,
near Brooke, 139 ; Thomas Coryat
at, 143 ; possession of Bema, 143 ;
monks and nuns, fotinded by Em-
press Eliiabeth, 147.
Money, Venelian, i. 432,
Monoitiches by Thomas Edwards,
quotation tVom, 11. 56.
Monsferratus, marquesses of, kings of
Italy, I. 230,
Montacute, Sir Edward Philippes of,
II. 310.
Montargis, Thomas Coryat at, i. 196.
Montigny, M. de, Protesiant preachcr
at Charenton, i. 185.
Montmelian, strong castle at, L 319.
Montmorency, M. de, high constable
of France, I. 169.
Montrescut, Porte de, at Amiens,
1. 166.
Montreuil, Thomas Coryat at, 1. IjS ;
description of, 159.
Monuments in Holy Chost Church,
Ueidelberg, II. 3I3 ; in Spires
cathedral, 333 ; to bishopsof Spires,
in the calhedral, 246-247-
Moore, Dr,, in Padua, and Thomas
Coryat, i. 399,
Morata, Olympia Fulvia, leamed
Italian woman at Heidelbci^, II.
239.
Morbinlo in Rhetia, II. 63.
Mosa river, near Dordrecht, 11. 365.
Mosbach, George Eucharius, archiiect
in Worms, 11. 262.
Mosella, the, 11. 154 ; spring of, at
Langres, 305.
Moulins, description of a fair at, I. 3ol.
Moonlebanks, i. 267 ; in Venice, 409.
Mount Falcon, near Paris, gallows on,
I. 170.
Mowse Turn, in the Rhine, 11. 298.
Mgnatius Plancus, cities founded by,
I. 303.
Mimster, Sebastian, Cosmography by,
I. 421 ; II. 109 ; quotation froro, 152,
153; professorat Basle, 171; leamed
man of Heidelberg, 239 ; on Deuti,
348 ; etymology of the word Spires,
333 ; Cosmography and the Jesuits
of Spires, 249.
Murano, fabrication of Venetian glass
at, I. 387.
Music, beauiiful, in Venice, i. 390.
Musto, Paulo j^milio, and ihe epitaph
of Antenor, I. 271.
Naha river, tributary of the Rhine,
II- 295.
Nancy, battle of, between Charles,
Duke of Burgundy and the Swi
1477, II- 103-
CORYArS CRXIDITIES
Narses, Eunuch, and the c
ning t
the Longobards in Italy, i. 237;
Padua repaired by, c. 550, I. 173-
Naupacius, see Lepanto.
Neccarus, see Neclcar.
Neckar river, at Heidelberg. 11. 154,
Jo8.
Nemeles. Spires inhabiled by people
called, II. 231.
Ncmetum, see Spires.
Neobourg oa ihe Rhine, 11. 176.
Neomagus, see NLmeEUen.j
Neihertands, Thomas Coiyat in the,
H- 3>i-3?6; eating customs m the,
360 ; overfioodings of, 364.
Nevers, Thonias Coryai at, his de-
scription of, I. 198-200.
Nevill, Henry, of Abergavenny, pane-
gyric verses on Thomas Coryat by,
1.26.
Nicaea, council of, in Biihynia, i. 368.
Nicoletis, Joannes, friend of Thomas
Coryal in Vicenza, 11. 13.
Nicrus, see Neckar.
Nilus, crocodiles in, I. 291.
Nimcguen by the Wahalis, 11. 154;
Thomas Coryat at, 357 ; distance
from, lo Dordrechi, 376 ; founder of
Worms, 156.
Ninus, king of the Assyrians, 11. 183,
256.
Noah, Tuisco, son of, and Areria,
11. 178.
Norimbet^, the Pegnetius river at,
11. 285.
Normanus at Cologne, 11. 348.
Notre-Dame of Paris, sce Church.
Novalaise, in Piedmont, 1. 22$.
Novara, firsi ciiy of the dukedom of
Milan, 1. 239; battte between French
and Swiss at, 1500, Z39.
Noviomagus, see Nimeguen.
Nunneries, at Amiens, I. i63;at Brescia
built by King Desiderius, 750, il.
4^ ; at Zurich, founded by Ludovicus,
kmg of Germany, 853, gg.
Odcombe, dislance from, 10 London,
I. 301 ; to Venice, 11. 376.
Olevian, Gaspar, preacher at Heidel-
berg, 11. 229.
Olivet, represeniationof Mount, it) the
cloister of Spires caihedral, 11. 248.
Ome, German 1
Operinus, Joa
1. 172.,
., printer of Bisle,
Oppenheira, neax Wonns, 11. M;
death of Rupertus, king of ilst
Romans al, 368 ; S. Caibcnac'
Church in, 168.
Ostrichcs, description of, 1. 190.
Olho, Viscouni of Milan, his siogie
combat with Volucis, 1. J45,
Otho thc Great, batlle of, wilh his aui
Ludolphus, II. zSo; with Ebe-
hardus, at Andemach, 307.
Owen, John, epigram a.nd distichonon
Thomas Coryat by, I. 74.
Padua, buili by Antcnor, i, 138,170:
Scaliger^s decastichon on, descrip-
lion of, 270; past history of, 273;
monuments of, iSt ; djstance from,
lo Venicc, 301 ; in Etnperor Mir-
tian's lime, and Atlil^ 305 ; subjecc
to Venice, 420 ; Lord Wentworlh
and Thomas Coryat al, II. I.
Pados, see Po.
Page, Samuel, panegyric verses oo
Thomas Coryal by, I. 76-77,
Pajellus, Livius, orator of Vicenia.iLB.
Palace of the Viscounts of Milwi,
description of, I, 245 ; of the Dufce;
of Maniua, 165 ; of Padua, descrip-
tion of, 274 ; of the bisbop of Padiu,
293 : of Earl Leonardus Walmaiana
in Viccnia, 11. 4, 5 ; of Odoricai
Capra, 9, ti ; of the Scaligers, ai
Verona, 25 ; of Counl Augustinus
Justus in Verona, 35 ; of Breidi,
41 ; palaccs of Brescia, 46 ; of tbe
bishop of Bergamo, 53 ; of iIk
princc at Heidelberg, 214; of the
bishop of Worms, 257.
Palaces in Venice, i. 308 ; of iheDutt
of Vcnice, 318 ; descrjption of, 33}
Palatinate, Lower, Heidelberg, meno-
politan city of, II. 307.
Palatine princes, ritles of, 11. uj;
eiymology of, 224.
Palavicino, Sir Horatio, II. 62.
FalaeDlogus,Constantine,lastChristian
Emperor of Constaniinople. ha
opinions on Padua, 1453, i. 174.
Patladio, Andrea, architect of Vicena
theatre, 11. ^.
Palma Caslle in Forum Julii, Venetiia
possession, i. 410.
INDEX
Panicke, lulian corn, i. 234.
Pannonin, the Longobards in, I. 337.
Pantaieon, Henry, philosopher and
ph^ician of Basle, at Daden, II. 143 ;
epiiaph of, at Basle, [62.
Panuinius, Onuphrius, friar, and Pope
Joan, |[. 2S2.
Papia, capital of the Longobardes, t.
338.
Pareus, David, professor of divinity m
Heidelberg, 11. 330.
Paris, Thomas Coryat at, I. 170-182;
Scaliger^s verses in praise of, 170;
distance from, to Lyons, 301 ; on
the Seijuana, It. 154.
Participitius, Angelus, Dukeof Venice,
builds the palace of the Dukes, 809,
'■ 333-
Paul, Friar, of the Order of Serviies, 1.
380.
Paulus, siatue of, at Padua, i. 379.
Pavia, 1. 238 ; Charles V. and Francis
L at, I. 255.
Pavy, see Pavia.
Pawlet, John, of (jeorge Henton,
Eanegyric verses on Thomas Coryat
y, I, 6i.
Paylon, John, pancgyric verses on
Thomas Coryal by, I. 39.
Peacham, Henry, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, 1. 113*115.
Pearch, measun^ II. 24.
Peel, Antony, hanged in effigy, i. 168.
Pegnetius river, iributary of the Maine,
11. 385.
Pellicanus, Conradus, leamed man of
Heidelberg, 11. 329.
Pepin, King, and S. Zeno's monument
in Verona caihedral, 11. 33 ; monu-
ment of, 33 ; and the ecdesiastical
affairs of Gerraany, z6o ; of France,
residence of, at Worms, 764, 364.
Persica, Sibylla, prophecy of, II. 359.
Pcschiera, Venetian forl at, 11. 39.
Petrarch, Francis, canon of Padua, I.
395 ; his library lefi to ihe Senaie
of Venice, 331.
Petrengo, Vincentius de, Dominican
Friar of Bergamo. and Thomas
Coryat, II. 57-
Peucerus, Gaspar, on ihe etymology
of Sabaudi, 1, 118 ; etymology of the
word Spires, 11. 333 ; on the etymo-
logy of Palatine^ II. 324.
Pfaltz, castle in the Rhine, II. 324.
Phaesulae, near Florence, I. 305.
Philip Auguslus, and Ihe Louvre,
c. 1214, I. 173.
Philip IL, king of Spain, his picturein
Venice, L 42;.
Philip VI. of Valois, Klng of France,
and the title of Dauphin, 1328, I.
194.
Philip, twenty-fourth German Em-
peror, son of Frederick Barbarossa
and Beatrix, 11.33$ '• Straaburg taken
by, I300, II. 193.
Philip, Count Palaline, and Ihe palacc
of Heidelberg, 11. 217,
Philippes, Sir Edward, master of the
rolls, 11. 310.
Philippus Arabs, tirst Christian em-
peror, death of, ai Verona, 11. 37.
Phillips, Robert, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, i. 30-31.
Phillips, Sir Edward, Thomas Coryat's
patron, i. 317 ; 11. 370.
Phrygia, Sibylla, prophecy of, II. 3;S.
Picardy, province of, I. 157.
Pickeney, see Picquigny.
Picquigny, in Picardy, Thomas Coryat
at, i. 160, 164.
Picus, see Mirandula.
Piersey, John, bishop of Salisbury,
archbishop of York, epitaph of, by
George Coryat, 11. 403.
Pisa, in Etruria, Henry VII., eraperor
of Germany at, 11. 146.
PiscaCor, Joannes, learned man of
Strasburg, II. 195,
Pius IL, Pope,epitaph by, 11, 166-167;
university of Basle founded by, 170.
Pizighiton, Francis L, king of France,
prisoner at, 1. 255.
Plancus, Munatius, Augusta Raura-
corum buili by, 11. i;3; siatue of,
inBasle, is6.
Plato, travels of, I. 138 ; travels of, to
Egypt, II. 74.
Flinius Secundas, elogium of, in Corao,
II. 64.
Plutarch. quotation from, i. 2;i, 3:1.
Po, or Padus, or Eridanus, river in
Turio, I. 330.
Podestk, Magistrate, ruling the land
cities subject to Venice, 1 419.
Poggios, cbe Floreniine, n. 81. 143,
349-
4
CORYAT*S CRUDITIES
Polanus, Amandus, a Polensdorf of
Basle, II. 167.
Pc^tianus, Angelus, epistle from, to
Cardinal Jacobus, li. 177.
Polma, Huldricus de, and the murder
of Emperor Albert, li. 145 ; death of,
at Basle, 146.
Polycarpus, bishop of Smyma, i. 209.
Polyodopolis, Attila's name for Stras-
burg, II. 184.
Pompey, travels of, i. 138.
Ponds, carp, at Fontainebleau, i. 187.
Pontanus, Ludovicus, at the council of
Basle, 1439, II. 166.
Pont de Beauvoisin, Thomas Coryat
at, I. 215.
Pont de Nieullet, at Calais, 1. 156.
Ponte de Rialto, description of, i. 309.
Pontius Pilate, exile and death of, at
Lyons, i. 207.
Poole, Henry, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, I. 29-3^
Portraits in palace of Augustinus
Justus, II. 35.
Posihutna fragmenta poematum of
George Coryat, II. 377-407.
Pots, Mr., preadier at Flushing, 11.
^375-
Praepositura, sacked by freebooters,
II. 309-
Praetorium of Vicenza, description of,
II. 3-
Prefects, Roman, instituted by Julius
Caesar in Gaul, il. 283.
Prettigoia, confederation of Rhaetia,
signed at, 1470, il. 90.
Prince Royall^ the English ship, i. 359.
Prison, State, in Venice, l. 357.
Procurator of S. Mark, dignity in
Venice, l. 419.
Prosdocimus, first apostle of Padua, l.
293 ; first apostle of Vicenza, il. 13.
Psalms, preface to a book of, translated
by George Coryat, 11. 385.
Ptolomaeus, Geographie by, II. 256.
Puckering, John, George Coryat to, ll.
400.
Pulpit in Spires cathedral, ll. 244-246.
Pulpits in Mayence cathedral, il. 273.
Punishments m Switzerland, 11. 107.
Pythagoras, travels of, to Italy, 11. 74.
Quin, Walter, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, l. 54-56.
Radagisus, king of the Goths m Italf,
1.305.
Ragatz in Switzerland, n. 92.
Ramus, Peter, quotation firom, n. S4.
Rapperswyl, Jonn of Habspuig at,iL
108.
Rathaus in Cologne, description o( a
343-
Ravilliacke, murderer of Heniy IV,
I. 168.
Rees, Coryat at, ll. 350 ; diardi o(
355-
Regius, Raphael, of Padua, i. 298.
Ramagan, sacked by freebooters, u.
309.
Rezuns, Baron o^ and the coofeden-
tion of Rhetia, 1424, 11. 90.
Rhaetia, geographicsd divisions o( IL
63 ; Thomas Cor^at at, 63-70, 87-88;
confederations o^ 90.
Rhaetus, king of Tuscia, and the name
of Rhetia, IL 63.
Rheinfelden city, Thomas Coryat at,
II. 151.
Rhenanus, Beatus, on tbe etymok)gy
of Palatinate, II. 224.
Rhene-Barke, Thomas Coryat at,
II. 352.
Rhenes in Litde Britaine, Court of
Parliament, l. 179.
Rhine, at Basle, 11. 153; Thomas
Coryat on, 176 ; cataract or water*
falls on the, 302 ; bisboprics on the
left side of the, 335 ; river in Gelder-
land, 357.
Rhine Valley and River, ii. 68, 87.
Rhodanus river, l. 205 ; li. 154.
Rialto, Joannes Bonus, first dweller di
the, m Venice, i. 304 ; Ponte dc,
309 ; or Exchange of Venice, 312 ;
temporary dwellmg-place of some
Dukes of Venice, 418.
Rice-bank at Calais, i. 15$.
Richard I., king of England, elected
Emperor of Germany at Wonna^
II. 266 ; and the tolls and taxes in
Germany, 295 ; Boppard town caip-
tured by, 304.
Richlindus, wife of Eckenbertus
Kemerer, first Abbess of the Franc-
kendal monastery, 11. 252.
Richmond, Robert, panegyric verses
on Thomas Coryat by, i. 50-54.
Ridouts, or forts near the Waell, 11. 563.
428
Rivole, or Rivoli, Thomas Cor>'at at,
I. 227.
Robertellus, Francis, of Padua, I. 298.
Roch Melow or Molom, high moun-
lain near Novalaise, i. 22;.
Rodolph, eldest son of Emperor Alberl,
II. 144.
Rodolph 11., statue of, in the Senatc
HouseofWorms, 11. 262.
Rodolphus, Count Palaiine, 1209,
11. 212.
Rodolphus, Duke of Swabia, Earl of
Rheinfelden, 11. i;i.
Rodolphus, Earl of Hapsbui^, kiag of
the Romans, 11. 138 ; 32nd German
Emperor, 235 ; and the conquest of
Turlowe, 205.
Romans, travels of, to Marseilles, u.
74-
Rooke, George, Thomas Coryal's
friend, i, 272 ; Thomas Coryat's
friend ai Padua, Ii. 1.
Rosamund, Queen, 11. 38.
Rosne, M. de, govemor of Graveling,
I. 156.
Rotenburg, the Tuberus river at, 11.
285.
Rouen in Nonnandy, Coun of Parlia-
ment, i. i79-
Row, Sir Henry, Lord Mayor of
London, II. 293.
Row, Thomas, and Thomas Coryat at
Frankfort, 11. 293.
Rowland, and the Cleft Rock, near
S. George's, 1. 227-
Roy, M. de la, French Protestant, and
Thomas Coryat, I. iSo.
Rudiger, bishop of Spires, II. 231.
Rufach in Alsatia, 11. 181.
Ruffinus, 11. t68.
Rugia Istand, and ihe Longobards,
1- 137.
Rupelmunda, birthplace of Mercator,
II. 3S'-
Rupertus, duke of Alemanny and the
nunnery of Zurich, 11. 99.
Rupertus, the elder, founder of the
cnurch of the Holy Ghost, and of
the university, Heidelberg, c. 1346,
II. 212, 227 ; king of the Romans,
death of; at Oppenheim, 11. 268.
Ruremunda, Lindanus, Bishop of,
II. 368.
S. Albanus Church at Mayence, 11. 281.
S. Ambrose, bisbop of Milan, and
Theodosius I., I. 242.
S. Andr^, Thomas Coryal ai, 1. 223,
S. Anthony of Padua, I. 286.
S. ApoUinaris, bishop of Ravenna, tirst
apostle of Brescia, 1 19, 11. 46 ; near
Basle, 172-
S. Bamabas, Milan converted to
Christianity by, i. 244 ; first apostle
of Bergamo and Milan, II. 49.
S. Barihelmew, martyr in Albania,
■- 363-
S. Bartholomew^s Church in Frank>
fort, II. 289.
S. Bernard, abbot of Clarai-al in Bur-
gundy, his salutation 10 the Virgin,
II. 236-337 ; his letter to the Bishop
of Spires aboul the first Crusade,
1094, 238 ; translation of his letter
to the Bishop of Spires, 239-144 ;
friendship of, with Hildegardis, 296.
S. Brixe, Thomas Coryat at, I. 168.
S. Croce, quarter in Venice, 1. 306.
S. Denis, firsi apostle of the Gauls,
I. 169 ; shrine of, near Paris, Thomas
Coryat at, 169, 182, 185.
S. Erasmo, haven of Venice, 1. 304.
S. Georges in Ilaly, Thomas Coryat
at, I. 227.
S. Geran, Thomas Coryat ac, 1. 201.
S. Gereon, martyr in Cologne, li. 343,
S. Gewere, on the Rhine, u. 301 ;
merry custom at, 302.
S. Goar, see S. Gewere,
S. Gregory, martyr in Cologne, 11. 342.
S. Jean de Mauricnne, Thomas Coryat
at, i. 223.
S. John Baptist's Day in Piedmont,
I-234-
S. John's village in the firembana
Valley, Thomas Coryat ai, 11. 6t.
S. Lewis,king of France and the bishop
of Vicenza, II. 4.
S. Liew, Thomas Coryat at, 1. 168.
S. Marco, quarter in Venice, I. 306 ;
nnarket-place of, description of, 314 ;
piazta of, dcscription af, 323.
CORYATS CRUDITIES
S. Mark, the cfMge fat, Py ° ? ^
Veoke, his bodj braaglit hvm
AleBmdria, 8ia» i. 354-
S. Mary^s Chordi in Wcma, n. iol
S. Matenms» fim jmosde of Scras-
barg, IL 193; nrst aposde of
Cologne, 310, 334-
S Michael Mooastery,iiear S.Geoigc%
S Panl and the Tiper in Maka, L 412 ;
place in Venice, 385.
S Polo, qnarter in Vcnice, L 3061
S Reinoldns, archhishop of Cologne,
IL 331.
S. Sapborine de Lay, Thooias CorTat
at, L 201.
S. Stephen, first martyr, tomb oi^ in
Venice, L 381 ; place in Vcnicc,
games i^ycd in, 3^85.
S. Tmycn, on the Rhinc, li. 353.
S. XjTsabkj history of, IL 336 ; chnrch
cij in Cologne, 337.
S. Zcno, bisbop and patron saint of
Verona, IL 32 ; monamcnt oi^ in
Vciona Cathcdral, 33.
Saba, Qoccn oi^ anccstry oi, IL
Sabaodi, pcoplc of 5^voy, ctynKMC^
of thc namc, i. 218.
Sackficld, Thomas, Dorsctshirc-man,
scttlcd in Frankfort, IL 291.
Sage, Pctcr, Coryafs fcllow travcllcr,
n. 3SO.
Sala rivcr in Saxony, l. 237.
Salamis, scc Famagusta.
Salt mincs at Hallcs, n. 144.
Salust, quotation from, l. 421.
Samia, Sibylla, prophecy of, II. 258.
Sanctus, mart>T at Lyons, l. 207.
Sangona, Latin namc of ri^xr Sonc,
I. 205 ; Thomas Coryat at, 268.
Sansovinus, Jacobus, statues of the
tower of S. Mark, made by, l. 328.
Santo, see Anthon/s Church.
Sapor, King of Pcrsia, and Empcror
Valerian, l. 349 note.
Sarbini, Arnaldi, bisbop of Nevers,
1592, 1. 2ca
Sariana, Torellas, and the antiquities
of Vcrona, n. 21.
Sartorius, Joanncs Antonius, and
Thomas Coryat, i. 256, 258.
Sarum, Thomas Coryat at, l. 293.
Sassam in Rhaetia, 11. 68.
tranrdlery o. 350C
vyat in, L 215-My;
218; CnnilyofdieM
0^23«-
FomkfiHt, n. lA
Scahgcr« Ccn Gnmde, n. 29.
Scafigcr, Oawns SigiiQfioSy statoe (%
IL 28L
Scafigcr.Jomies GalentiDS, I $96^0.39.
Scafigcr, Jalias CacsajTy his venes n
AHucns, I. 161 ; his hernlirhnB ii
of Pnris, 170 ; of Lyoos, 205;
ociostiriioii, on Tnrin, 229 ; 1b
257 ; his vcises a
Mantna, 262 ; decasticfaon 00 P^
270 ; Teiscs on Vcnice^ 301 ; vcnes
OQ Wcnin» n. 3 ; verscs on Vcnn,
16 ; palace of the, 25 ; moomDCBls
of the,27; hensti<iioo on Bresdi,
41 ; Tcrscs on Bagamo, 49 ; veiscs
on HddelberK, ao7 ; vcrses <■
Frankfcrt, 2^-288; vcises ob
Colcgne, 311.
Scafigcr, Mastiiwwj statae ai, ii
Vcrona, IL 27.
Scandcrbcg, George Castriot, Kflf
of Senria and Epims, statne (d, it
Vcnicc, l. 36a
Scoocnbcrg, Earl oi, at the Fraokfat
£ur, II. 291.
Scory, John, pan^yric Tcrses od
Thomas Coryat by, i. 36.
Scowcn island, in the NcthcrlaDds,
II. 371.
Scinc rivcr, or Sequana, L 171 ; u.
154*
Scmpach, battle oi, betwccn Leopok),
Dukc of Austria, and die Swiss,
IL 148.
Scnate House of Wonns, ll. 261.
Sencca, quotation firom, l. 204 ; wods
of, IL 2ia
Senis Mount, I. 222.
Sequana, scc Scine.
Scrrarius, Nicholas, Jesiut of Miy*
cncc, n. 175, 274, 279.
Scverus, Alcxander, £mperor, slain at
Maycncc, ll. 281.
Scward, John, Laurence Whitaka^
cpistlc to, I. 149.
Shccp in Rhaetia, 11. 64.
430
INDEX
Sian in Piedmonl, Thomas Coryat at,
!■ 233-
Sibyllae, prophecies of the, II. 357.
Sicambri, fonner inhabitants of Gel-
derland, ii- 3S7-
Sidenham, Ceorge, his verses on
Germany, II. 181-181.
Sidney, Robert, Viscount Lisle, Govcr-
nor of Flushing, il. 374.
Sigismund, Emperor, and ihe Earldom
of Baden, II. I3g;and the Dukedom
of Savoy, I. ai8 ; and ihe Council
of Basle, 1431, 11. 173.
Simlerus. Josias, treatise by, 11. 91 ;
leamed man of Zurich, 98, 11 1.
Singers, Venetian, i. 391.
Skinkel-sconce, in an island of the
Rhine, 11. 356.
Slade, Saniuel, of Merton College,
praised by Archbishop Cabnel,
I. 370.
Sleidanus, Joannes, lcamed man of
Strasburg, II. 195.
Smaragdus,second exatch of Ravenna,
Smith, Nicholas, panegyric verses on
Thonias Coryai by, 1. 98.
Smyma, Polycarpus, Bishop of, I. 209.
Socrates, 11. 168.
S0I, Venetian coin, value of, I. 389 ;
tin c
., 433.
Solodurum, see Solodure.
Solomono, mother of the Maccabees,
II. 341.
Solon, iravels of, to Asia, 11. 74.
Sone (Sa6ne) river, or Arar, or San-
gona, I. 205.
Sophia, Empress, and Narses, i. 337.
Sorbona, founded by Charles the
Great, 796, 1. 171.
Sorverden, Frederick, Comes de, arch-
of Colo^e, 11. 331.
Spianivetlis, Thomas of, friend of
Thomas Coryat in Viccnia, 11. 13.
Speronus, Spcronius, statue of, at
Padua, I. 32 1.
Spira or Spier, see Spires.
Spira river at Spires, 11, 232.
Spires, 11. 147 ; conflucnce of the
Rhinc aod Neckar near, 309 ;
Thomas Coryat at, II. 331-251 ;
churches of, 233 ; cathedral of, 233 ;
Attila at, 251 ; death of Adolph of
Nassau near, 1298, 335 ; Allila at.
251.
Lir Lake
Splugen, town a
near, II. 67.
Sladthaus of Flushing, 11. 374 ; of
Nimeguen, 359.
Stangi, Hcnry de, scholar of Herman-
nus Kirehnerus, 11. 71.
Statues in the Duke's Palace in Venice,
I. 321 f ; of learned men in Verona,
II. 37.
Steinbach, Ervinus of, li. 182 ; archi-
tect of Strasburg tower, 186.
Stilico, Consul, and Radagisus, 1. 305.
Stiver, dutch coin, II. 36;.
Stones, huge, in Savoy, i. 321.
Storks, descriptionof, 1. 189; at Flush-
ing, 11. 374.
Strangwayes, John, panegync verses
□n Thomas Coryat by, I. 34-35.
StrasbiJrg in Alsatia, II. 1S0-194 1
bishop of, and Ziirich, 108 ; Attila,
183; cathedral, 185; bishopric of,
193 ; distance from, 10 Heidelberg,
376.
Strigelius, VicCorinus, professor at
Heidelberg, 11. 229.
Stuckius, Joannes Gulielmus, II. 98,
100, 111, 19S.
Suetonius, i. 307.
Suevia, see Swabia.
Suicardus, Joannes, archbishop of
Mayence in Coryat's time, 11. 275.
Sungovia, or Sequania in Switzerland,
II. 151.
Sunnazarius, Jacobus, reward bestowed
by Venicc on, 1. 301.
Susa. Thomas Coryat near, 1. 227.
Sutdin, John, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, I. 64.
Swabia, Wimpina in, II. 208.
Swice, prefect of. and William Tell,
II. 101 ; at the help of Zurich, loS.
Swiss at the batlle of Granson, 1476,
I. 19Z.
Switzcrland, Thomas Coryat in, II, 92 f ;
boundaries of, 92 ; origin of thc
Sydenham. George, panegyric verses
on Thomas Coryat by, I. 65-67.
Sylla river, in Switierland, witches*
ashcs thrown in, 11. 107.
CORYATS CRUDITIES
Sylvins, iCneas, see Pius II.
Synagogues in the Ghetto, description
of; I. 371.
Taberna, see Zabemia.
Tacitus, on Baden, li. 137 ; qaotation
from, 177 ; hisaccountof thefounda-
tion of Cologne, 312.
Tamberlane, Bajazet and, I. 349, note.
Tarara^ Thomas Coryat at, I. 202.
Tarentmus, Architus, wooden pigeon
o^ II. 188.
Targous island, in the Netherlands,
IL 371.
Tamous island, in the Netherlands,
II. 371.
Tarquinius Priscus, L 138, 241.
Taruisium, see Treirsa.
Tassell, William, Coryat^s fellow-travel-
ler, II. 350.
Tassilo, kin^ of Bavaria, condemned
by king Pipin, 764, li. 264.
Taylour, Thomas, galley-slave in
Venice, i. 414.
Teillo, Heraand, goveraor of Dourlans,
I. 165 ; Amiens surprised by, 166.
Telina, see Valtulina.
Tell, William, history of, 11. loi £
Tenctheri, former inhabitants of
^Vesel, II. 353.
Tesino, see Ticino.
Teusch, see Deutz.
Teutonia, etymologies of, II. 178.
Theatre of Vicenza, 11. 7, 9 ; at Verona,
25-
Thebes, built by Cadmus, i. 138.
Thello, Bishop, and the cathedral of
Chur, 770, II. 88.
Themistocles, travels o^ l. 138.
Theodoret, 11. 168.
Theodosius I., S. Ambrose, bishop of
Milan, and, l. 242.
Theonestus, companion of S. Albans,
II. 282.
Theseus, travels of, I. 135.
Tholosa, in Languedoc, Court of
Parliament, l. 179.
Thomannus, prefect of Zurich, and
Thomas Coryat, li. 109.
Tiber, overflowings of, 11. 19.
Tiburtina, Sibylla, prophecy of, ll.
2J9.
Ticmo, river, l. 235.
Tiel, on the Waell, il. 361.
Tigurinas, Josias Simleros,
by, L394.
Tieurum, see Ziincli.
Tilt-yard at Whitc^ial], ll. 24.
Tinctoretus, see Tintoretto.
Tintoretto, pictores in Venice bft
L 342, 344.
Titian, pictures c£, in Padoa, L 287;
statues by, in Venice, 333.
T^ 'Opift-^d, panegyric verses on Thoaas
Coryat by, I. 81.
Torture, public, in Venice, L 592.
Tossana, Thomas Coryat at, ll. 67, 87.
Totila, 5th king of Ravenna, L 289.
Tour du Pin, see La Toor dn Pin.
Tower of St Mark in Venice, de-
scription of, L 325 ; of Vicenza, IL 4.
Tower, James^Coryat^s fellow-traveDer,
IL 3$a
Trajan, Emperor, at Cologne, IL 349;
his brid^e over the Danube, L 309
Trapezuntius, Geoige, Greek orator,
IL i$a
Treasurer of the land cities subject to
Venice, l. 42a
Treasures of the French kings at
S. Denis, l. 182.
Trebeta, son of Ninos, king of tbe
Assyrians, li. 183.
Trebeta, Prince, founder of Mayence,
11. 270.
Tremellius, Emanuel, i. 374 ; preacher
at Heidelberg, li. 229.
Tremoville, commander of the French
at the battle of Novara, 1500, L
239.
Trent, Bassanum, near, i. 273«
Trevirs, one of the three oldest cities
in Germany, ll. 183 ; founded by
Prince Trebeta, 256 ; Strasborg,
subjected to, 193.
Trevisa, subject to Venice, l. 42a
Triboces, former inhabitants of Alsada,
II. 183.
Triphone, the Jew, and Justinus, L
209.
Trithemius, John, and the writings of
Bishop Maximus, I. 232.
Triumphus BavaricuSy by Robert
Turaer, ll. 233.
Trontz, confederation of Rhetia, 1424,
signed at, 11. 9a
Traccessius, Gebhardus, archbishop c^
Cologne, IL 33$.
432
INDEX
Tuberus river, tributary of the Maine»
II. 285.
Tuetanes, lord of Tuetonia, II. 178.
Tuilleries, palace of the, I, 175.
Tuisco, son of Noah and Arezia, il.
178 ; and the foundation of Deutz,
348.
Tun, Great, of Heidelberg, ll. 218.
Turegum, see Ziirich.
Turgovia, 11. 96.
Tunn, illness of Thomas Coryat at, I.
229 ; Scaliger^s verses on, 229 ; his-
tory of, 230 ; distance from, to
Milan, 301.
Turlowe in Baden, Marquisate of, II.
199 ; Thomas Coryat at, 203 ; con-
quered by Emperor Rodolph, 205.
Tumer, Robert, Triumphus Bavaricus
by, on Spires Cathedral, il. 233.
Turre, limit of Vicenza and Verona,
II. 15.
Two Storks, inn at Ziirich, Thomas
Coryat at, 11. 107.
Tyrol, Meinhard, Earl of, 11. 144.
Uberwinter, on the Rhine, Thomas
Coryat at, li. 307.
Ubii, founders of Cologne, il. 311.
Ubiopolis, see Cologne.
Ulissmgen, see Flushing.
Ulmo, Thomas Coryat at, II. 61.
Ulyshingen, see Flushing.
Underwald, or Sylvania, in Switzer-
land, II. loi ; at the help of Zurich,
108.
Universities in Germany, l. 8 ; ll. 76 ;
of Basle, 11. 170; of Cologne, 348;
of Heidelberg, 226; of Mayence,
279 ; of Wittenberg, Martin Luther
at, 194.
Urban II., Pope, and the first Crusade,
1094, II. 238.
Urban IV., Pope, and the Corpus
Christi day, l. 176.
Urban VI., Pope,university of Cologne,
founded by, 1588, 11. 348.
Uri, or Urania, m Switzerland, li. loi,
108.
Ursinus, Zacharius, preacher at Heidel-
berg, II. 229.
Ursula river, Luceme on, 11. 154.
Usumcassanes, kin^ of Persia, his
presents to the Signiory of Venice,
I. 356.
Utrecht, death of Conradus IL at, ll.
233; death of Henry V. at, 1125,
235-
Vadianus Glareanus, panegyric verses
on Thomas Coryat oy, l. 86-95, ^'^
119.
Valentinian, Emperor, II. 153.
Valerian, Emperor, and Sapor, king of
Persia, i. 349 note.
Valerius, Albertus, bishop of Verona
in Thomas Coryat's time, 11. 32.
Valerius Brobus, Emperor, 11. 179.
Valtulina Valley, il. 62.
Vangionum, see Worms.
Vau^han, Rowland, John, and William^
epitaph of, by George Coryat, il.
406-407.
Vegetius, on the army of ancient
Rome, I. 212.
Venice, Signiory of, Padua added to,
by Gattamelita, 1402, i. 274 ; Gulf
of, 303.
Venice, description of, l. 301-428; a
* maiden city,' 415 ; government of^
417 ; possessions of, 420 ; Coryafs
departure from, II. 1 ; distance from,
to Ancone mountain, 11. 375.
Venus's temple in Spires, demolished
by Dagobert, il. 251.
Vercellis in Piedmont, S. John
Baptist's day in, i. 234.
Verona, subject to Venice, l. 420 ;
Scaliger^s verses on, Thomas Coryat
at, II. 16 ; description o^ 17-40,
154.
Veronne, forest of, near Abbeville, l.
160.
Verses, paneg>Tic, on Thomas Coryat,
I. 22-121.
Vespasianus, Flavius, Roman prefect
at Mayence, 11. 283.
Vic, M. de, govemor of Calais, 1608,
I. 152.
Vicenza, subject to Venice, l. 420;
Scaliger^s verses on, 11. 2 ; descrip-
tion of, 3 ; Attila at, 12 ; on the
Bacchilio, 1^4.
Vicetia, see Vicenza.
Victor, archbishop of Worms, and
the Council of Cologne, 348, ll.
260.
Vienna, inhabited by Allobroges, l.
218.
C.C II
433
as
CORYAT'S CKUDITIES
Viiicentia, see ^cenza.
Vmeyards and whie bouses in SaToy,
L 219 ; in Piedmont, 233.
Virdungus, Joannes, mathematician in
Heidelberg, IL 229.
Yirgil, at Cremona, L 260 ; his verses
on Mantua, 262 ; Mantua, birth-
place o^ 263 ; quotation from, IL
176U
Virginius, Rufus, Roman prefect at
Mayence, 11. 283.
Visdossein, M. de, govemor of Calais,
L 156.
Vo^ hill in Burgundy, L 171.
Voitlandia, Maine river rises in, il. 284.
Volucis, Otho, Viscount of Milan, his
single combat with, I. 246.
Vopiscus, Flavius, historiographer, 11.
183.
Voragine, Jacob de, and the legend of
S. Denis, l. 169.
Vorpillere, Thomas Coryat at, i. 214.
Vulteius, travels o^ i. 130.
Wael, river, in Gelderland, il. 357.
Wahalis, Nimeguen by the, n. 154;
branch of the Rhine, 177.
Walanus, first bishop of Basle, 704,
II. 172.
Walastat in Switzerland, Thomas
Coryat at, IL 91, 93.
Walcheren island, towns in, 11. 372.
Walks, vaulted, in Padua, i. 298.
Walmarana, Earl Leonardus, palace
ofi in Vicenza, 11. 4.
Wan, Joannes de, last bishop of Basle,
1365, IL 172.
Wamer, Michael, builder of the great
tun of Heidelberg, 11. 219.
Wart, Rodolphus de, and the murder
of Emperor Albert, IL 145 ; death of,
146.
Wasalia, Joannes de, leamed man of
Wesel, 11. 301.
Wesems, Gaspar, of Zurich, ll. 100 ;
Thomas Coiyat^s epistles to, 1 1 3- 1 2 1 ;
epistle from, to Thomas Coryat,
122-123.
Watchman in the Netherlands, n. 355.
Weda, Hermannus Comes a, arch-
bishop of Cologne and the Reform,
"• 335.
Wentworth, Mary, monument of, at
Calais, L 154.
Wentworth, Lord, Thomas Cofyaiai,
at Padua, IL i.
Wemerus, martyred child in V^esa,
1287, IL 3oa
Wemharius, first bishop of WoraB»iB
the time of Charles the Great, Q.
261.
Wesel, Higher, Thomas Coryat it,
IL 3oa
Wesel, Under, in Cleveland, IL 352.
Wheel, Tormentor^s, near BoologBe,
L 159.
Whippings, public, at Lyons, l. 213
Whitaker, Laurence, panegyric voses
on Thomas Coryat by, L 40-43;
Elogie of Coryat^s Cradities, 149.
Whittelbach, Otto Palatine o( £m*
peror Philip murdenKl by, 120S,
IL 23S.
Wiesa river at Basle, 11. 153, 155.
William, Earl of HoUand and Zelaod,
monuments to, in Nfiddlebofoogh,
11. 373.
William, Prince of Orange, £ither of
Ludovica, wife of Frederic^ IV^
IL 225.
Willigisus, bishop, founder of tbe
cathedral of Mayence, c loii, il
271.
Willingus, Joannes, preacher at Heidel*
berg, 11. 229.
Willoughby, student in Padua, and
Thomas Coryat, i. 299.
Wimier, Carolus, of the Pracmon-
stratenian Order, and Thomas
Coryat, L 161.
Wimpina in Swabia, 11. 208.
Windows, French, i. 197 ; of Lyons,
204 ; size of, in Rhaetia, 11. 69.
Wines, variety of, in Venice, i. 424.
Wirtemberg, Earl of, and Zurich, 11.
108.
Wisdom, CoIIege of, at Heidelberg,
IL 227.
Witches bumt in Ziirich, 11. 107.
Wittemberg, University of, Martin
Luther at, II. 194.
Woldmda, wife of king Pipin, 11.
349.
Wolphangus, Count Palatine, 15581
II. 212.
Wolphius, Joannes, printer of Basle,
IL 172.
Worcom, on the Waell, 11. 361.
434
INDEX
Wormacia, see Worms.
Worms, Joannes Dalburgius, bishop
of, II. 229 ; Thomas Corvat at, 252-
268 ; description of, 255 f.
Worsley, James and Anne, epitaph of,
by George Coryat, ll. 405.
Worsley, Richard, epitaph of, by
George Coryat, 11. 404-5.
Wotton, Sir Henry, English ambas-
sador in Venice, l. 272, 332 ; praised
by Archbishop Gabriel, 370 ; letter
from Richard Martin to, 377-379.
Xylander, Gulielmus, philosopher in
Heidelberg, li. 229.
Yaxley, Robert, panegyric verses on
Thomas Coryat by, I. 34.
Zabarella, Francis, of Padua, I. 298.
Zabemia, or Tabema, seat of the
bishops of Strasburg, II. 193.
Zamolxis, travels of, I. 128.
Zanchius, Hieronymus, famous prea-
cher of Bergamo, li. 60.
Zani or Zanus, Sebastianus, Duke of
Venice, 1 166, i. 349 ; and his be-
trothal to the sea, 11 74, 359.
Zante island, or Zacynthos, I. ^20.
Zanus, Petrus, Duke of Venice, and
the lions of S. Mark^s, l. 348.
Zara, subject to Venice, l. 421.
Zebenico, subject to Venice, l. 421.
Zedechias, Jewish physician, 872,1. 267.
Zeno, Joannes Baptista, Cardinal, his
tomb in S. MarVs Church, Venice,
Zirixee, in Scowen island, ll. 371.
Zogno, Thomas Coryat, 11. 61.
ZoUem, John, £arl of, aeath of^ ll. 148.
Zuinggems, professor of Greek at
Basle in Coryafs time, il. 170.
Zuinglius, pastor of Zurich, ll. 109,
iii.
Ziirich, II. 96 ; lake of, II. 94 ; history o^
94 ; description of, 95-112 ; Thomas
Coryat leaves, 136 ; on the Limacus,
1 54 ; one of the three oldest cities
in Germany, 183 ; distance from, to
Basle, 376.
435
CORYAT'S CRUDITIES
Tke following list of Erraia is reprifUed from the original edition.
ERRATA.
In the first Oration of Kirchnerus for plency read plenty, ibid. fbr
contained r. contemned. ibid. for matters r. manners. pag. i6. lin. 30. for
hairse r. haire. p. 21. 1. 4. for hore r. horse. p. 23. I. 14. for videt r.
vidit. p. 29. 1. 14. for subdio r. sub dio. p. 35. 1. 15. for preambulating r.
poambulating. p $8. 1. 31. for from r. ta p. 63. 1. 17. for prestin r.
pristin. p. 136. 1. 33. for remited r. remitted. p. 149. 1. 35. for atten-
tator r. attentato. p. 161. 1. 16. for Vinetia r. Venetia. p. 162. 1. 24. for
twenty r. twentieth. p. 163. L 16. for fourty r. forty. p. 167. 1. 6. for
breath r. breadth. p. 202. 1. 33. for ratriae r. patriae. p. 206. l. 17. for is
r. it p. 257. I. 27. for shall r. shalt p. 271. 1. 30. for maner r. manners.
p. 308. L 16. for sounded r. founded. p. 312. L 21. for Sariana r. Saraina.
p. 297. L 17. for Lordships r. Mannors. p. 38 j. L 3. for sacers r. sakers.
In the last line of one of the pages of my latm Epistle to Buelerus for
connere r. continere. p. 397. L 19. for afterwaed r. afterward. p. 419. L
16. for wood r. forrest p. 422. L 7. for ipsam r. ipsum. p. 438. L i. for
opposing r. opposed. p. 467. L 18. for Cassia r. Hassia. p. 492. L 9. for
Saronie r. Saxonie. p. 495. L 2. for who read which. p. 509. L 14. for of
r. or. p. 522. L 30. for in r. of. p. 539. L 30. for canot r. cannot. p.
573- L 3. for Princedomes r. Principalities. p. 578. L 3. for beuatifull
r. beautifull. p. 581. L 34. for slave r. slue. p. 561. 1. 13. for nobis r.
novis. p. 603. L 35. for inumerable r. innumerable. p. 621. 1. 13. for
ength r. length. p. 623. 1. 24. for to r. two. p. 622. 1. 6. for belbi r.
beUi.
Other faults there are also in the booke at the least halfe a hundred
(I beleeve) unmentioned in this place, which I intreate thee to winke at,
and to expect a truer Edition, which I will promise thee shall make
recompence for the errors now past.
GLASGOW: PRINTBO AT THB UNIVBBSmr PBBSS BY BOBBBT MACLBHOSB AMO CO. LTI».
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