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TREES, SHRUBS, VINES
AND
HERBACEOUS
PERENNIALS
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A Practical Handbook oF
TREES SHRUBS VINES
AND
HERBACEOUS
PERENNIALS
V
John Kirkcgaard
formerly Assistant to Director of the Royal Botanical Oardcns
Copenhagen, Denmark
Latterly Twenty Years in American Forestry
and Botanical Work.
HARDY AND ORNAMENTAL VARIETIES
THEIR CHARACTERISTICS, USES
AND TREATMENT
"Vhen ye hae naething else to do, ye may be aye
sticking in a tree. It will be growing when ye're
sleeping"
SIR WALTER SCOTT
PUBUSHED BY
THE BULLARD COMPANY
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
W. B. CLARKE COMPANY. Distributor*
26-28 Tremont St , Boston, Mass.
Copyrighted 1912
The Bullard Compawt
Boston, Mass.
The Blanchard Pret
Worcester Mats.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Preface 9
Illustrations of Species 15-129
Planting Plans 130-139
Abbreviations 140
Glossary of Botanical Terms 140
Description and Classification of Species . . 142-356
When to Plant 357
How to Plant 358
Pruning 359
Outdoor Culture of Roses 361
Lawns and How to Make Them 365
The Insect Pests of Shade Trees and Shrubs . . . 369
Trees, Shrubs and Plants for Special Purposes . . 389
Plants Particularly Adapted for Rock Gardens . . 389
Plants for Bog Gardens or Good in Wet Places . . 390
A Few Good Hedge Plants 391
Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Fruit .... 392
Trees and Shrubs with Distinct Colored
Leaves other than Green . 393
List of the Best Hardy Ferns 394
General Index 395
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2010 with funding from
University of British Columbia Library
http://www.archive.org/details/practicalhandboOOkirk
PREFACE.
)N THE preparation of this volume, the purpose continually in
the mind of the author has been to afford a simple and con-
venient reference book of the ornamental trees and plants
hardy in this climate; simple, yet concise, a guide valu-
able not only to the amateur, but to the busy architect,
gardener or plantsman as well. Its form has been suggested
by the needs encountered during a long period of private and
commercial association with plants, when the material here set
forth would at times have been most useful.
It is as a reference book that it will take its place. Exhaustive
descriptions, variations from type, and more technical matter
must be sought among the horticultural encyclopaedias. In
these pages, however, will be found general cultural information
and directions sufficient for all ordinary requirements. When
and how to plant, pruning, spraying and cultivation are each
treated comprehensively. Propagation has not been touched
upon, as it is a generally accepted fact that trees and plants, of
sizes suitable for planting in their permanent places, can be more
easily obtained from reliable nurserymen, and give, as a rule,
better satisfaction to the amateur gardener. Trees, shrubs and
plants have been classified according to their suitability for cer-
tain purposes. Space is given to the making and proper care of
lawns. The more common injurious insects are described, and
means for their extermination are discussed. In short, the author
has earnestly endeavored to include whatever information the
average householder needs to enable him to make a selection of
such trees and plants as are best adapted to his purposes, and
to aid him in properly caring for the grounds about his home.
Regarding the plants themselves, doubtless many omissions
will be found from the more or less familiar sorts; but let it here
be said that only such are included as have proved their worth
under ordinarily favorable conditions of cultivation and climate.
10 A Practical Hand Book
Authorities will be found who differ in many cases from the
facts here presented, especially in regard to ultimate heights,
times of flowering, and habits of growth ; but it must be remem-
bered that plants are highly sensitive to environment, and that
external influences, favorable or otherwise, determine their devel-
opment. Here are tabulated the personal observations of the
author as he has found the plants under average conditions.
The indicated heights of the various shrubs, for instance, are
such as they attain in well-kept border-plantings, rather than
the maximum growth found in individual specimens planted
singly.
The beautifying of home grounds is rapidly becoming a habit
among a great majority of our people. It is a habit happily
encouraged by influences on every hand. By " home grounds **
is meant not alone the spacious surroundings of the suburban
mansion, but equally the less extensive village '* lot " or city
" back yard." Possibilities are ever present. Even a few square
feet, given the necessary care, will support something that grows
into beauty. An unsightly heap of stones, of promiscuous char-
acter and lineage, may be transformed into a garden of plants
whose character suits them to such forbidding surroundings. A
few helpful suggestions may perhaps show the way to surprising
improvement; and the satisfaction thus attained is a reward to
be coveted.
If the author has succeeded in so presenting such suggestions
that they will prove of benefit to his readers, he will feel that his
efforts have not been in vain.
The botanical names given in this book are based upon the
nomenclature accepted in Bailey's Cyclopedia of American
Horticulture and the Index Kewensis. The popular names are
those in most general usage. In the capitalization of the specific
names the rules of the recent Botanical Congress of Vienna have
been followed and only those specific names which are derived
from the names of persons or those which have been used as
generic names have been capitalized.
Professor E. A. White and Dr. H. T. Fernald of the Mass.
Agricultural College have rendered valuable assistance in the
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 11
preparation of this book. Prof. White's editorial work has
been especially referable to correctness of nomenclature.
Dr. Fernald's editorial work has been especially referable to
the subject of ''Injurious Insects, Pests and their Treatment."
To these gentlemen we extend our hearty thanks.
The Authoiu
I?-
ILLUSTRATIONS
With Botanical and Common Names.
Characteristics, uses and treatment of the illustrated trees,
shrubs, vines and herbaceous perennials may be found by reference
to the botanical name of each in the regular classification tables.
No attempt has been made to show merely pretty pictures, but
to illustrate many of the uncommon or partially known species and
varieties.
i^
Picea Engelmanni Engelmanns Spruce
Aquilegias Columbines
Veronica longifolia var. subsessilis — Speedwell
Pynis floribunda — Flowering Crabapple
Hemlocks and Mountain Laurel
Hibiscus syriacus fl. pi. Double Rose of Sharon
Chionanthus virginica White Fringe
Liatris pycnostachya -Blazing Star
Dictamnus albus Gas Plant
Shasta Daisies
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Tulips
Osmunda regalis— Royal Ferns
Berberis Thunbergii Hedge
Fagus sylvatica var. pendula Weeping Beech
Coreopsis lanceolata Tickseed
Wistaria chinensis — Chinensis Wistaria
An Avenue of Poplars
Calycanthus floridus Carolina Allspice
Juaiperus virginiana Red Cedar
Syringa vulgaris var. alba White Lilac
Clematis paniculata— Panicle-flowered Clematis
Clethra alnifolia — Sweet Pepperbush
Euonymus europaeus -European Spindle Tree
Leucothoe catesbaei Leucothoe
Lilies in the Herbaceous Border
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Catalpa speciosa
Digitalis purpurea — Foxgloves
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Vine Effect with Dutchman's Pipe and Clematis paniculata
Cypripedium spectabile — Showy Lady s Slipper
A Border Planting of Foxgloves and Sweet-Williams
Iris germanica German Iris
Hibiscus moscheutos var. Crimson Eye — Crimson-eyed Hibiscus
Fagus sylvatica var. heterophylla -Fern-leaved Beech
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PLANTING LIST FOR PLAN NUMBER ONE.
list No. of
No. Planta
1 290 Berheris Thunbergii. Japanese Barberries. Or Ligustrum ovali^
folium. California Privets, to be planted 1 foot apart.
2 9 Populus nigra var. italica. Lombardy Poplars.
3 25 Althaa rosea. Hollyhocks, to be planted 1 foot apart.
4 4 Vines as follows:]
\ Lonicera japonica var. Halliana. Hall's Honeysuckle.
1 Clematis paniculata. Panicle-flowered Clematis.
1 Ampelopsis quinquefolia. Virginia Creeper.
1 Lycium halimifolium. Matrimony Vine.
5 7 Vines as follows:
1 Wistaria chinensis. Chinese Wistaria.
1 Tecoma radicans. Trumpet Honeysuckle.
1 Clematis Jackmanni. Jackman's Hybrid Clematis.
1 Actinidia polygama. Japanese Actinida.
1 Dorothy Perkins Rose.
1 Crimson Rambler Rose.
1 Aristolochia macrophylla. Dutchman's Pipe,
Early ripening Grapes.
Spircsa bumalda, var. A. Waterer. Anthony Waterer Spirsea.
Cydonia japonica, Japanese Quince.
Hydrangea paniculata. Fall-flowering Hydrangea.
Lespedeza bicolor. Bush Clover.
Forsythia suspensa var. fortunei. Drooping Golden Bell.
Kerria japonica. Shrubby Globe-flower.
Rosa rugosa. Japanese Rose.
Spircea Thunbergii. Thunberg's Spiraea.
Stephanandra fiexuosa. Stephanandra.
Ligustrum ibota. Japanese Privet.
Hydrangea paniculata var. grandiflora. Large-flowered Fall
Hydrangea.
Calycanthus floridus. Carolina Allspice.
Lonicera tatarica. Tartarian Honeysuckle.
Elceagnus longipes. Oleaster.
Diervilla florida. Weigelia.
Prunus japonica. Flowering Almond.
Myrica cerifera. Bay-berry.
Rosa rugosa var. alba. White Japanese Rose.
Amorpha fruticosa. False Indigo.
Philadelphus Coronarius. Sweet-scented Syringa.
Syringa vulgaris and persica. Various varieties. Mixed Lilacs.
Spircea japonica var. alba. White-flowcrcd Japanese Spiraea.
Viburnum opulus. Mountain Cranberry.
Spircsa prunifolium. Bridal Wreath.
Spircea bracteata. Round-leaved Spiraea.
6
2
7
8
8
6
9
5
10
5
11
7
12
6
13
5
14
7
15
7
16
6
17
8
18
5
19
6
20
7
21
5
22
7
23
4
24
5
25
10
26
9
27
8
28
4
29
8
80
6
11
6
132 A Practical Hand Book
Samhucus nigra var. aurea. Golden-leaved Elder.
Ribes alpinum. Alpine or Mountain Currant.
Euonymus alatus. Winged Burning-bush.
Spircea Thunhergii. Thunberg's Spiraea.
Acanthopanax pentaphylla. Five-leaved Aralia.
Acanthopanax pentaphylla. Five-leaved Aralia.
Prairie Roses.
Forsythia suspensa. Drooping Golden Bell.
Viburnum tomentosum var. plicatum. Japanese Snowball.
Rhodotypus kerrioides. White Kerria.
Deutzia scabra crenata. Rough-leaved Deutzia.
Rhus cotinus. Smoke-bush.
Chionanthus virginica. White Fringe.
Cornus alba. Red-barked Ozier.
Catalpa speciosa. Southern Catalpa.
Picea alba. White Spruce.
Apple Tree.
Picea pungens. Blue Spruce.
Fagus sylvatica var. purpurea Riversi. Rivers' Purple Beech.
Betula alba var. pendula laciniata. Cut-leaved Birch.
Best Hybrid Perpetual Roses.
Hardy Asters. ';
Achillce ptarmica var. The Pearl.
Coreopsis lanceolata. Lance-leaved Tickseed.
Sedum spectabile. Showy Sedum.
Scarlet Phlox paniculata. Panicled Hardy Phlox.
Delphiniums. Various species. Perennial Larkspurs.
Pceonia officinalis. Paeonias.
White Phlox paniculata.
Veronica longifolia var. subsessilis. Speedwell.
Chrysantheum leucanthemum var. hybrida. Shasta Daisies.
Aquilegia chrysantha and various species of tall Columbines. Tall
Columbines.
Tulips, Narcissuses, Hyacinths, Scillas and Snowdrops may be
planted among shrubs and near edge of beds.
list ~
. No. of
No. I
c Plants
32 ^.
6
33
4
34
5
35
3
36
5
37
5
38
6
39
6
40
5
41
8
42
7
43
6
44
5
45
6
46
1
47
1
48
1
49
1
50
1
51
1
52
36
53
6
54
5
55
6
56
8
57
8
58
5
59
6
60
6
61
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62
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PLANTING LIST FOR ROSE AND HERBACEOUS
GARDEN.
Festuca glauca. ' Blue Fescue Grass, to be planted 8 inches apart.
Dianthus barhatus var. White Reserve. Sweet-William.
Dianlhus barbatus var. A bbotsford.
Lychnis viscaria var. splendens. German Catchfly.
Viola odorata. Hardy Russian Violets.
Armeria maritima var. robusta. Sea Pink.
Viola cornuta. Horned Violet.
Veronica supria. Bastard Speedwell.
Gaillardia aristata. Perennial Gaillardia.
Phlox paniculata var. Annie Cook. Perennial Phlox.
Lupinus polyphyllus. Lupine.
Phlox paniculata var. Coquelicot. Perennial Phlox.
Platyccdon grandiflorum. Japanese Bell-flower.
Sedum spectabile. Showy Sedum.
Chrysanthemum leucanthemum hybridum var. Alaska.
Sedum spectabile. Showy Sedum.
Hardy Chrysanthemums, yellow,
Statice latifolia. Sea Lavender.
Astilbe japonica var. Queen Charlotte. Astilbe or Spiraea.
CEnothera fruticosa var. Youngii. Young's Sundrops.
Phlox suffruticosa var. Miss Lingard. Southern Phloa.
Monarda didyma. Oswego Tea.
Physostegia virginiana. False Dragon-head.
Cypsophila Stevenii. Dwarf Baby's-breath.
Veronica longijolia. Long-leaved Speedwell.
Astilbe japonica var. floribunda. Astilbe or Spiraea.
Asclepias tuberosa. Butterfly Weed.
Physc stegia virginiana var. alba. White False Dragon-head.
Sedum maximum var. hamatodes. Purple-leaved sedum.
Papaver orientate. Oriental Poppies, and
Lilium auratum. Gold-banded Lily.
Campanula medium. In variety. Canterbury Bells.
Phlox paniculalum. White. Perennial Phlox.
Aquilegia. Various species. Columbines.
Lobelia cardinalis. Cardinal Flower.
Hybrid Perpetual Roses in variety.
Baby Rambler Roses, to be planted 1 foot apart.
List
No.
1
2
No. of
Plants
203
12
3
4
12
24
5
36
6
7
30
27
8
9
22
12
10
8
11
14
12
13
11
15
14
18
15
12
16
17
12
6
18
14
19
10
20
8
21
12
22
10
23
10
24
16
25
15
26
12
27
24
28
11
29
12
30
6
31
4
12
32
14
33
6
34
10
35
50
36
104
PLAN /N<^-3
vSuggeatiVe Treatment of City 3ack)/ar<A
6cale A'l'^'i'i ' ' '
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12. Pect
List
No.
No. of
Plante
1
1
2
1
3
2
4
3
5
4
6
6
7
3
8
3
9
3
10
6
11
15
12
3
13
3
14
3
15
4
16
5
17
3
18
4
PLANTING LIST FOR PLAN NUMBER THREE.
Wistaria muUijuga. Loose-clustered Wistaria.
Tecoma radicans. Trumpet Honeysuckle.
Juniperus communis var. hibernica. Irish Juniper.
Berberis Thunbergii. Japanese Barberry.
Ligustrum ovalifolium. California Privets.
Phlox paniculala. In variety. Perennial Phlox.
Rhododendron catawbiense hybridum. Hybrid Rhododendrons.
Euonymus europczus. Strawberry Tree.
Forsythia suspensa var. fortunei. Fortune's Golden Bell.
Coreopsis lanceolata. Tickseed.
Iris germanica. German Iris in variety.
Rosa rugosa. Japanese Rose.
Kalmia latifolia. Mountain Laurel.
Viburnum opulus. Mountain Cranberry.
Symphoricarpos racemosus. Snowberry.
Pceonia officinalis. In variety. Garden Paeonieft.
Kerria japonica. Globe-flower.
Populus nigra var. italica. Lombardy Poplar.
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1
14
2
20
3
14
4
2
5
2
6
74
T
2
8
16
9
100
PLANTING LIST FOR ROSE GARDEN,
Persian Yellow Roses, planted IJ feet apart.
White Moss Roses, planted 1^ feet apart.
Harrison Yellow Roses, planted IJ feet apart.
Dorothy Perkins Roses for arch.
Lady Gay Roses for arch.
Hybrid Perpetual Roses, planted 2 feetapart.
Crimson Rambler Roses in tree shape.
Hybrid Tea Roses, planted I] feet apart.
Baby Rambler Roses, planted 1 foot apart.
ABBREVIATIONS.
A. Very hardy.
B. Requires a sheltered position.
C. Requires protection until well established.
D. Rapid in growth.
E. Slow in growth.
P. Prefers a moist soil.
G. Thrives in any good soil.
H. Thrives best in a light warm soil.
/. Particularly good for cutting.
5. Shrub, or generally grown in bush-form.
T. Tree or generally grown in tree-form.
X. (Found in Rose-List.) Indicates best flowering varietifii.
Y. (Found in Lilacs.) Indicates largest and best blooms.
GLOSSARY.
Capsule, A many-celled seed-vessel.
Cleft, Divided, split, parted.
Conical, Having the form of a cone.
Decumbent, Reclining, but with tips ascending.
Edible, Fit to be eaten as food.
Fastigiate, Branches erect and close together.
Frond, Leaf of a fern.
Glaucous, A dull green passing into gray blue.
Globose, Round, spherical, globular.
Herbaceous Perennial, A soft stemmed plant, which perishes dovn to the
root annually.
Hybrid, A variety produced from the mixture of two species.
Lobed, Divided to the middle into parts distant from each other,
with convex margins.
Mulch, A light covering, as hay, straw or leaves.
Palmate, Having the shape of a hand.
Panicles, Scattered fruit or flowers. Clusters on peduncles variously
sub-divided.
Pedicels, Short flower or fruit stalks.
Pendulous, Hanging, drooping.
Petiole, The stem of a leaf, connecting the leaf with the plant.
Pinnate, Compound, feather-shaped.
Plumose, Feathery.
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants.
141
Procumbent, Trailing, prostrate, lying on the ground.
Prostrate, Lying flat upon the ground.
Pubescent, Downy.
Pyramidal, Having the shape of a pyramid.
Raceme, A cluster of flowers or fruit.
Recurving, Bending toward the ground.
Sepal, A part of the calyx or perianth of a flower.
Sterile, Barren, unfruitful.
Tendril discs, Claspers given to climbing plants for supports.
Tuberous, Round, fleshy, underground stems, as, for example, potatoes.
Trifoliate, Having three leaves.
Tubular, Having the form of a tube or pipe.
Umbel, A flat-topped flower cluster.
Whorl, Leaves or flowers arranged around a stem, in the same plane
with each other.
142
A Practical Hand Book
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WHEN AND HOW TO PLANT.
The matter of when to plant is often a puzzling
When to question to the amateur; and to give one answer
Plant which will apply to all species and localities is
obviously impossible. Spring is commonly con-
sidered the best season, for the reason that plants set out at that
time have abundant opportunity to become well established in
the ground before the following winter. The planting-season
may extend from the earliest time at which the ground is free from
frost until, perhaps, the first of June. The later period, however,
requires the use of plants that have been kept dormant, as it is
ordinarily unsafe to move them after they have leaved out to
any extent. Their becoming established is a matter of renewing
root-growth that has been disturbed by transplanting, and this
fact has led the author to the belief that early fall planting
may be employed equally advantageously. It has been his
experience that root-growth continues after the leaves have
performed their functions and have commenced to drop off.
Transplanted at this semi-dormant period, the plant becomes
sufficiently well established to endure the ensuing winter, and is
in a position to take advantage of the earliest spring warmth, and
to make vigorous growth the following summer. This fall plant-
ing-season lasts (in the vicinity of New York and Boston) from
about the first week of September until the ground is frozen.
When transplanted in the fall, trees and plants
Winter of a more tender nature should be protected against
Protection drying winds and severe cold. This protection
should usually not be applied until after the ground
is frozen to a depth of two or three inches. Individual trees and
shrubs may be wrapped with straw, burlap, or evergreen boughs;
and it is well to first strengthen the plant with a strong pole
inserted firmly in the ground. Groups of Rhododendrons or
deciduous shrubs of questionable hardiness may be protected
358 A Practical Hand Book
by inserting evergreen boughs thickly among them ; these should
be somewhat taller than the plants themselves. Herbaceous
perennials may be given a light mulch with hay, straw, leaves
or coarse, strawy manure; but they must not be covered until
after the ground is frozen at least two inches deep, and the
mulch must not be so thick and heavy as to hold excessive
moisture and rot the plants.
After the ground has been prepared by digging
How to to a depth of eight to twelve inches, working in
Plant plenty of well-rotted stable manure, and grading
carefully, individual holes should be dug for the
trees, shrubs or plants. These must be large enough to allow
the roots to be spread naturally, and deep enough to set the
plant somewhat deeper than before transplanting. Perennials
should be about an inch, shrubs two or three inches, and trees
three or four inches deeper. Good loam, free from lumps and
coarse manure, should be worked in among the roots, and care-
fully compacted. Individual trees, particularly such as are
planted on lawns and avenues, may be benefited by leaving
around them a circle of two or three feet, kept open by cultiva-
tion, until they become well established. Care must be taken,
however, that no basin be left to gather water and allow ice to
form about the trunk in winter.
It is difficult to state a definite rule for the spac-
Distances ing of plants, as the distance varies according to the
Apart species and the effect desired. In general, it may
be said that where a dense growth is desired, as in
borders and screens, shrubs which attain a height of from six to eight
feet should be set from three to three and a half feet apart ; those
growing from two to four feet high should be set from two and a
half to three feet apart. Herbaceous perennials should be spaced
about as follows. Plants attaining a height of four to eight inches,
and not trailing, eight inches apart; those growing twelve to
eighteen inches high, one foot apart; coarse plants, growing two
feet high and over, one and a half to two feet apart. These dis-
tances, however, are dependent upon the bushiness or spread of
the plants; hollyhocks, for instance, which grow more than five
Trees, Shrubs, Vikes and Plants. 359
feet tall, should be planted as near together as one foot, to obtain
a good effect.
Deciduous trees and shrubs should be given a
Pruning severe cutting-back or pruning when transplanted.
More or less roots are always bruised and broken
during transplanting, and all such should be trimmed off with
pruning-shears or a sharp knife, as the bark cannot heal over a
rough wound. In order to insure a strong and healthy growth, as
well as to cause the plant to become bushy or attain any desired
shape, it is well to cut off from each branch one-third to one-half
of the previous summer's growth. Fruit-trees respond especially
to free pruning at the time of transplanting.
The matter of when and how to prune established shrubs and
trees depends upon their habits and the purpose for which the
operation is performed. Shrubs that bloom early in the spring
form their flower-buds during the preceding summer, and they
should therefore not be pruned until immediately after flowering,
if their flowering is to be preserved. Late-blooming shrubs flower
on wood of the same season's growth, and should be pruned
while dormant, in late winter or very early spring. One-third
the previous season's growth may be removed. Shrubs planted
in masses should be pruned regularly to induce a dense growth,
and to prevent individual plants from becoming too tall, with
unsightly, open branches.
The shearing or trimming of hedges in cold
Shearing climates, should never be done later than July first,
as late cutting allows a tender new growth, which
does not have time to ripen properly and consequently is liable
to winter-kill. The shearing of individual shrubs to form flat-
topped, globe, pyramidal, or other unnatural-shaped specimens
should, as a general rule, be avoided.
Fruit-trees require pruning to check too vigorous growth, and,
as is the case with ornamental trees, to keep them symmetrical.
The removal of a portion of the new growth concentrates the
nourishment supplied by the roots in the remaining branches,
and, if the tree is of bearing age, influences the production of
larger, better fruit. Too severe pruning, however, induces the
growth of new wood, at the expense of fruit. All cuts must be
360 A Practical Hand Book
made cleanly with a sharp knife or pruning-shears, leaving no
projecting stubs of branches. If a large branch is removed, it is
well to cover the exposed wood with a lead paint of good quality,
to prevent the entrance of decay. If the wood is kept sound and
healthy, the bark will gradually grow over the wound, finally
closing it completely.
OUTDOOR CULTURE OF ROSES.
While roses can be grown in almost any kind of
Soil soil they prefer that it be deep, rich and well
drained. If it contains considerable clay, the growth
will be more luxuriant and the blooms richer in color. As they
are gross feeders, the soil should be well enriched with thoroughly
decomposed stable manure. If this is done the fall before the
roses are to be planted and thoroughly spaded into the soil, the
results will be better. The subsoil should be loose and of such a
character that water will pass through it quickly. If it is not
naturally so, the subsoil should be removed to a depth of two or
three feet and the bed refilled with coarse porous material at the
bottom and rich soil placed above.
Roses like protection from strong winds in sum-
Location mer, also from the damaging winds of March and
early April when the sap is just becoming active in
the top and before root action has begun. They require a fair
amount of sunlight and a southern exposure. They should not
be planted too near buildings or tall trees, for in these places
they are more susceptible to attacks from mildew. They should
be protected from alternate freezing and thawing during late
winter, for this is especially likely to cause winter-killing. The
location for the rose garden should be such that when once frozen
it may remain in that condition when properly mulched.
Field-grown plants should be transplanted in early
Season of spring, or in the fall as soon as they become suffi-
the Year for ciently dormant to be moved without danger of
Planting shriveling or withering. Spring is usually considered
the best season, as the plants start into growth
at once, and become well established before the following winter.
Pot-grown roses can often be secured and planted during the
summer, and are useful for filling in vacant spaces in beds.
Distances apart for planting roses are regulated
Distances somewhat by the varieties used. Such varieties
for as Moss Roses, Persian Yellow Roses and other
Planting strong growing kinds may be set three feet apart,
362 A Practical Hand Book
Hybrid Perpetuals about two feet apart, and Teas and
Hybrid Teas from one and one-half to two feet apart. In
planting several varieties in one bed, the stronger growing kinds
should be placed in the centre, or if in borders, they should be set
back of the weaker growing kinds.
Budded or grafted plants should be set so deeply
Planting that the junction of the bud or graft is at least three
inches below the surface of the soil. In fact, deep
planting is one of the most essential things in successful rose cul-
ture. After placing the plant in position, the earth should be
firmly pressed in around it. The roots should be placed in a
natural position, and loam free from hard lumps carefully worked
in between them. Care should be taken that plants, while out
of the ground, are kept from the wind and sun, and that the roots
are never allowed to become dry. Pot-grown plants should be
carefully removed from the pots and set in the ground without
disturbing the roots or breaking the ball of earth, and after
planting, some shade should be given for a few days, and a
liberal amount of water applied.
If dormant plants are set out in the spring, they
Pruning should be pruned immediately after planting. After
being set to the proper depth and the ground lev-
eled, they should be cut down to within three or four inches of
the ground. If planted in the fall, the pruning should be df f erred
until early in the following spring, so that such wood as winter-
kills may be removed.
To obtain the best flowers, and in order to keep the plants
thrifty and attractive, it is necessary that ever-blooming varieties
should be cut back to within a few inches of the ground each
spring. In pruning the Hybrid Perpetuals all weak wood should
be removed and the strong canes cut back to within three or four
buds above the ground. Moss Roses, and such other varieties
which bloom only in the spring, should be pruned immediately
after flowering.
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 363
During the summer an occasional watering with
Summer liquid manure will be beneficial. Arrangements
Treatment should be made if possible for a constant water sup-
ply in the rose garden, for the foliage is kept in a
good, healthy condition and insects are kept in check by syring-
ing with considerable force early in the morning on bright days.
Water should not, however, be applied during the middle of the
day.
In late fall, when the plants are well ripened,
Winter some protection should be given, and while loam
Protection heaped up around the plants furnishes the best pro-
tection, leaves, hay or straw to the depth of from
eight inches to one foot may be used for covering. It is best to
apply mulches for winter protection after the ground has frozen
somewhat.
Many insects attack the rose plants. Among
Insects these the green fly, or aphis, the rose chafer, or rose-
bug, and the red spider are the most troublesome.
The rose-bug is the hardest of the enemies to combat, and it has
been the experience of the writer that paris green dusted over
the plants is most effective.
The red spider is a very small insect, which is scarcely distin-
guishable to the eye. It is generally found on the undersides of
the leaves, which soon assume a sickly yellow tinge. It is most
destructive to plants trained against buildings or in p)osition3
where they are particularly exposed to the hot sun. The most
effective remedy is syringing with cold water, thrown in an
upward manner, to reach the undersides of the leaves, and applied
with sufficient force to remove the insects from the leaves.
The aphis, or green fly, can be exterminated by dusting the
plants with tobacco dust while they are wet with dew, or
by spraying with water in which tobacco stems or leaves have
been soaked.
Mildew often causes considerable injury. It
Fungous is generally caused by sudden atmospheric changes,
Diseases or by continued cloudy or damp weather. As a
remedy, dry sulphur may be shaken over the plant
early in the morning, while the leaves are wet with dew.
LAWNS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.
The term " lawn," as generally understood, is applied to a
grass-covered plot of ground, usually in the neighborhood of a
dwelling or other building, kept smooth and clean by continuous
care and close mowing. In more than one sense the lawn is an
essential part of any well-kept estate; but its chief service is,
together with its attendant trees and shrubs, as a setting for the
more individual features it may surround.
The first matter to be considered in preparing a lawn is the
grading. The contour should be such that no hollows allow the
retention of water during spring " thaws; " yet no opportunity
for erosion, due to excessive slope or concentrated drainage,
should be allowed. It may be here suggested that a slightly con-
caved surface adds to the apparent extent of a plot — a point
that frequently is taken advantage of in grading between a
house and the street upon which it fronts when the actual dis-
tance is short. The matter of drainage must, however, receive
careful consideration when this method is attempted.
Very rarely is under-draining necessary, except in unusually
heavy or clayey soil; when employed, lines of three-inch tiles
should be laid fifteen feet apart, and from two and one-half to
three feet below the surface.
In uneven ground, when the leveling or lowering of the sur-
face is necessary, the top-soil, if it is loam of any value, should
be laid aside, and the subsoil removed to the required depth,
after which the loam may be replaced and graded evenly. For a
vigorous and permanent greensward, from eight to ten inches
of loam are required. The latter should be enriched with an abun-
dance of well-rotted stable manure applied at the rate of eight
cords to the acre, which when spread evenly gives a depth of two
or three inches. This should be thoroughly worked into the soil
by plowing or spading, to a depth of eight inches or more; stones
and coarse sods and weeds must be removed by harrowing or
366 A Practical Hand Book
raking. It is a frequent objection that barn manure carries
quantities of weed-seeds, but as a matter of fact, the weeds spring-
ing from this source are usually of small consequence, the greater
number having been already in the soil.
The best season for sowing grass-seed is doubtless in early
spring, but good results are obtained when the sowing is made
in the fall, early enough so that the grass will make substantial
growth before frost. It is well to edge walks, drives, bedding-
spaces, and other portions exposed to injury with sods of firm
texture, and of a quality that will blend later with the seeded
growth. Excellent mixtures of lawn-grass seeds are supplied
by reliable seed-dealers, and their advice can generally be relied
upon in the selection of a mixture suitable for use in any par-
ticular location. As the proportion of non-germinating seeds is
often considerable, even in the best mixtures, the quantity sown
should be liberal, the usual amount being four bushels per acre,
or one-quarter pound per hundred square feet.
The seed should be scattered evenly, and in sowing it is advis-
able to go over the ground twice, lengthwise, then crosswise.
The work should never be attempted on a windy day; early in
the morning is considered the best time of day. The soil should
be moist, yet not wet enough to prevent the easy raking-in of the
seed, and a smooth rolling immediately after sowing. The rolling
should be done thoroughly by two or more applications of a
moderately heavy iron roller. In a dry season, daily watering is
beneficial. This should be done carefully and lightly, so as not
to wash the seeds from the ground. After the first mowing, the
rolling should be repeated once or twice ; and frequent mowing
will do much toward inducing a thick, velvety growth. Should
the new grass be killed in spots during the first winter, the bare
spaces should be resown liberally; depressions caused by the set-
tling of newly-graded soil may be filled with finely-screened
loam in which seeds have been thickly mixed. Another rolling
should follow.
The care of lawns involves three things: the eradication of
weeds, feeding, and mowing. For the first, various chemical weed-
killers are found in the market; but their use is no more certain
and consumes scarcely less time and labor than the old-fashioned
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 367
method of uprooting the undesirable -slants with an old knife or
Bome suitable garden tool. One of the best ways of keeping down
the weeds is to encourage the grass by generous treatment, as it
is where the grass is thin and the soil is poor that the weeds grow
most vigorously.
Yearly dressing with fertilizer of some kind is necessary to
the best condition of any lawn. As a rule, commercial fertilizers
do not give the permanent effect secured through using well-
rotted manure. Pulverized sheep-manure, wood-ashes, bone-
dust, or fine rich soil, or humus, may be used to advantage. The
application should be made in early spring, so that spring rains will
carry the plant-food well into the soil. As has already been said,
watering, for the old lawn as well as for the new, should be done
by some means that affords a fine spray of long duration, rather
than by a deluge from a coarse nozzle.
Frequent mowing is essential to the well-being of any lawn.
By it the growth of coarse seed-stalks is prevented, and the grass
is kept smooth and of good texture. A carrier for catching the
grass as it is cut by the mower is a great convenience, and, espe-
cially in the case of a new lawn, avoids the danger of uprooting
the grass by raking too vigorously. The rolling action of the
lawn mower is also beneficial.
THE INSECT PESTS OF SHADE TREES
AND SHRUBS.
By H. T. FERNALD, MasMchusetts Agricultural College.
The insects which attack our ornamental trees and shrubs are
of many kinds and work in a variety of ways. ■ Almost every
kind of plant has its especial foes, while numerous general feeders
may be found on many different plants. Some feed on the roots,
others bore in the trunk or branches, many more consume the
leaves, and others suck the sap from the branches or leaves.
Such a diversity of methods of attack renders necessary corre-
sponding methods for checking the ravages of these pests, and a
knowledge of how the insect causes the injury is in each case
necessary before successful treatment can be undertaken. So
many different insects are concerned, however, that anything
like a careful consideration of them must be left to special works
on the subject, and only general considerations and a more
complete discussion of a few of the most serious pests can be
included here.
In general, insects feed either by biting off and swallowing
pieces of the plant, or by sucking its juices. Biting insects are
provided with jaws for this purpose, while in sucking insects the
mouth-parts are combined to form a sucking tube, together with
structures which enable these insects to make holes through the
surface of the plant to where the sap is, and then to suck this
into their bodies.
With biting insects, a poison spread over the surface, which the
insect will swallow as it feeds, will pass to the stomach of the
pest and cause it to die, and such poisons are generally called
stomach poisons, for that reason. The more usual stomach
poisons used are paris green and arsenate of lead. For sucking
insects, stomach poisons spread, as they must be, on the surface
of the plant are of no value, the sucking tube of the insect being
passed through this layer into the hole it makes in the plant,
while the plant juices are extracted from beneath the surface.
For such insects as these, then, other methods of control must be
370 A Practical Hand Book
used, and oils, soaps and similar materials, called contact poisons,
are the more usual substances for this purpose. Contact poisons
appear to destroy insects by covering them, or at least the
openings of their breathing organs, with a film, thus suffocating
them, and it is at once evident that unless a sucking insect be
actually touched by some of the contact poison, the treatment
will fail. With biting insects the poison may be spread over the
tree to wait until the insect in its feeding reaches and swallows
it; with sucking insects only those touched by the poison at the
time it is applied will be destroyed; and if we remember that
many of the sucking insects are exceedingly small, the necessity
for the most thorough application possible of the poison becomes
evident.
GENERAL FEEDERS.
The Leopard Moth.
This insect is a native of Europe. It reached this country at Ho-
boken, N. J., about 1881, and since that time it has spread east-
ward, mainly along the coast, and is now found quite abundantly
as far east as eastern Massachusetts. It attacks many kinds of
shade trees and shrubs, and appears to be most injurious in and
near the larger cities and towns.
The adult insect is a good sized moth with white wings bearing
numerous blue-black spots. It appears during the latter part of
May, from which time specimens may be found till late in Septem-
ber. The eggs are laid in sheltered places such as crevices of the
bark, usually on the small branches, and on hatching, the young
borers work through the bark to the wood. Here they feed, work-
ing downward. When the branch becomes too small for the rap-
idly growing borer, it leaves it and enters another. Sometimes the
boring is along the centre of the branch; sometimes it takes the
form of a large cavity, and sometimes it passes around the branch
and girdles it. By winter the borer is usually about half grown,
and has entered one of the larger branches, leaving weakened
smaller ones behind.
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 371
The following spring, feeding is resumed in the larger branches,
and by the end of this season the borers are full grown. E^rly the
next spring, they work out to the surface and change to quiet
pupae, from which the adult moths emerge during the summer.
Spraying for these insects is useless, as the moths do not feed
and the borers work inside the branches almost entirely. Infested
limbs are quite easily recognized by the woody, partly digested
material thrown out of the openings of the tunnels, and these
limbs can be cut off and burned, or if not too badly injured a
little carbon disulphide (obtained from druggists) can be injected
into the openings of the tunnels, which should then be immediately
closed with putty or soap, so that the gas produced may not es-
cape, but follow along the tunnel and kill the borer. Badly in-
fested trees are usually too difficult to treat and should be de-
stroyed. Careful watching during the summer, to discover parts
attacked before it is too late, followed by the removal or treat-
ment of the infested branches, as described, is the best treatment
at present known.
The San Jose Scale.
The San Jos6 Scale is probably a native of China, but is now
present nearly everywhere in the United States. It feeds upon a
large number of trees and shrubs, seriously checking their growth,
and in many cases destroying them entirely. Besides fruit trees
and currants, on which it is a most serious pest, it is often very
abundant and injurious to the following shade trees and shrubs:
Amelanchier, Cornus, Crataegus, Cydonia japonica, Populus,
Prunus, Ptelea, Pyrus, Ribes, Rosa, Salix, Sorbus, Syringa, Tilia,
Toxylon and Ulmus, of different species (see tabulated list of
plants, page 142). It is also often found on other trees and
shrubs, but the above are those most liable to be much injured.
The adult insect is smaller than a pin-head and covered by a
hard shell or scale, circular in outline, and brown or grayish in
color. It is usually most abundant on the smaller branches and
twigs, but when very abundant may also be present on the leaves.
When winter sets in all ages may be present, but the very young
and the adult scales die during the winter, leaving only those from
372 A Practical Hand Book
one-third to two-thirds grown to reach the adult condition in the
spring. This is accomplished by the latter part of May or early
June, and then the young appear, one or two every few days for a
month or more. These young, which are born alive, are very tiny,
lemon-yellow insects which escape from beneath the scale of the
parent and crawl about for a day or two. Each has a long beak
through which to suck the sap from the plant, and on finding sat-
isfactory places the young settle down, force their beaks through
the bark and begin to feed. White waxy threads now grow out of
their backs and mat together, forming very small white specks as
the first coverings of the insects. To these are added molted skins
from the insects beneath, turning the scales brown or gray, and
enlarging them, and thus the scale covering the adult insect is
gradually formed.
The young become adult in about a month, and then they them-
selves produce young and there are three or four generations,
according to the length of the season, before winter ends this pro-
cess. During the summer enormous numbers of the insects
are produced in this way. If all the young born survived, and
themselves produced the normal number of young in each genera-
tion, it would be possible for the descendants of one female to
number over three billions in a single season. Fortunately, death
reduces this number greatly, but enough remain often to seriously
injure or even kill the plant they are on, by removing the greater
part of the sap from it, and thus drying it up.
This pest is very difficult to control, first, because being a suck-
ing insect it must be actually hit by a contact poison sprayed onto
it; second, because of its small size, which renders it very difficult
to reach all of the individuals by spraying, and finally, because of
the shell or scale which covers it, protecting it from the spray.
For this reason very strong materials must be used, in order
either to penetrate or work under the scale, and these are hardly safe
to apply while the plant is growing. Spraying for this pest must
accordingly be done during the period after the leaves drop in the
fall and before the buds open in the spring. The lime-sulphur
wash and miscible (often wrongly called " soluble ") oils are the
most usual sprays to use for the purpose. These materials are on
the market under various trade names, and only need dilution
Tbees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 373
with water before applying. The spraying must be very thor-
oughly done, however, if satisfactory results are desired, and it
seems desirable, if possible, to use an oil one winter and the lime-
sulphur wash the next, thus alternating the two materials.
The Gypsy Moth.
This notorious pest was accidentally introduced from Europe to
a point near Boston about 1869, and has now spread all over east-
em and central Massachusetts, into central and southern New
Hampshire, southern Maine, and portions of Rhode Island and
Connecticut. It is likely to appear anywhere in the New England
and Middle Atlantic states locally at any time, as the result of
being carried on freight, trees, automobiles or trains from in-
fested territory to that not yet infested.
The adult moths are found in July and August and a few strag-
glers may be met with early in September. The female has a large
body and grayish-white wings bearing irregular, indefinite, darker
markings, and measuring about an inch and a half between the tips
of the extended wings. The males are rather smaller, and much
darker in color.
The eggs are laid mainly during the latter part of July and Au-
gust, in clusters of from two hundred to four hundred, mixed with
brownish hairs from the body of the moth, which conceal the eggs
themselves. The clusters are placed on trees, rocks, fences or on
any rubbish at hand, and the eggs remain unhatched until the fol-
lowing spring. The tiny caterpillars escape from the eggs about
the time the leaves develop, and begin to feed, and are full grown
in most cases during June, being at this time two inches or more
in length, rather stout, and with numerous rather long hairs,
though the caterpillar could hardly be called " furry." These
caterpillars now crawl from the leaves to the trunk, fences or
rocks, and here they spin a few scattering silk threads around
themselves, and then change to short, brown pupae, within which
they change from caterpillars to moths. This change having
been completed, the moths escape from the pupae in July or Au-
gust, and lay their eggs for another generation.
374 A Practical Hand Book
This insect is a very serious pest for several reasons. It feeds in
the caterpillar stage on a very large number of trees, shrubs and
other plants, and is most voracious. It increases rapidly in num-
bers and is very resistant to stomach poisons used as sprays. On
the other hand, the female moth is so heavy it cannot fly, so that
the insect spreads mainly by the caterpillars' crawling, and by
the caterpillars' or moths' being carried to new places by vehicles
they may get onto.
The best methods for the destruction of this pest are by destroy-
ing the egg clusters during the fall or winter by soaking them with
creosote oil mixed with a little turpentine and coal tar. This can
be done by using a swab soaked in the mixture and fastened to the
end of a pole, pressing the wet swab against the egg clusters. The
caterpillars feed mainly at night and hide from the light to a con-
siderable extent in the daytime, hence loose burlap bands around
tree trunks will draw many there for concealment, and they can
then be easily destroyed. In some cases, spraying heavily with a
strong stomach poison, particularly when the caterpillars are
young, is quite effective. At present, all hope of a general control
of this insect rests in the success of parasitic enemies imported
from the native home of this insect, an experiment now being con-
ducted by the United States Department of Agriculture and the
State of Massachusetts, in co-operation.
The Brown-tail Moth.
The brown-tail moth was accidentally brought to Massachu-
setts about 1890, and since that time has spread from near Boston,
where it was first observed, to Maine and Nova Scotia on the
northeast, central New Hampshire on the north, the Connecticut
River on the west, and to northeastern Connecticut on the south.
It has also been found in other parts of the country on im-
ported plants, but so far as known, these cases have all been im-
mediately discovered and the insects destroyed. Colonies which
originated in this way are likely to be discovered at any time, how-
ever, and in any case a general distribution of the pest over at
least the eastern United States is almost certain to occur sooner
or later.
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 375
The adult moth is pure white, except at the end of the body,
which bears a tuft of golden brown hairs, which has given the in-
sect its name. It measures about an inch between the tips of the
extended wings, and flies at night during the first half of July.
The moths are active and are attracted to lights, and may often be
seen clustering around street lights. They lay their eggs in clus-
ters on the leaves of trees, mingled with brown hairs from the end
of the body, which conceal the eggs themselves, and an egg cluster
may contain from 200 to 400 eggs. These hatch during August,
and the little caterpillars feed in company, and when abundant
may skeletonize the leaves, causing them to turn brown.
In September each cluster of caterpillars passes to the tip of a
twig and here spins a web, drawing together a number of leaves
for the purpose. These webs or nests of silk and leaves are quite
small, being perhaps three or four inches long, and generally an
inch or two across, and are very tough and resistant to attempts to
tear them open. In these tents the caterpillars winter, leaving
them as the buds open and the leaves begin to grow in the spring.
The caterpillars now scatter in all directions, feeding on the buds
and leaves, and become full grown about the middle of June.
They then pupate among the leaves, and from these pupae the
moths appear in July.
The caterpillars are quite general feeders, but their favorite
food plants are perhaps the fruit trees, the oaks, maples and elm.
Two reddish spots on the back, one behind the other and not far
from its hinder end, make the recognition of this caterpillar easy.
Besides the injury to the trees which this insect causes, it is the
source of much discomfort and even of suffering to persons where
it is abundant. The caterpillar bears numerous finely barbed and
brittle hairs, some of which, at least, are also poisonous, and
when the caterpillars molt, pupate, or the adults escape from
the pupa, these hairs seem to become liberated and arc carried by
the winds. When the hairs strike the human skin, they appear
to work their way into it and produce a severe irritation known as
the " brown-tail rash." Cooling mixtures may be used to relieve
this, such as
376 A Practical Hand Book
Menthol, 10 grains
Zinc oxidi, 2 drams
Aq. calcis, ^ 8 ounces
Acid carbolici, 15 drops
To control the insect, use is made of the habit of the caterpillars
of wintering in colonies together in webs or nests at the tips of the
twigs, these being cut off and burned at any time during the
late fall or winter. When the caterpillars are feeding, either dur-
ing the early fall or in the spring, spraying with arsenate of lead is
a quite effective method of control.
The Fall Web Worm.
This insect feeds on a large list of shade trees as well as on fruit
trees, the elms, willows, poplars and butternuts being, perhaps, the
more favored food plants among the former group.
The moth is very variable in appearance, in northern New Eng-
land greatly resembling that of the brown-tail moth, except that it
has no brown tail. Further south the wings may bear numerous
small, black spots. It flies during June, July and early August
and lays its eggs, several hundred in a cluster, on the underside of
a leaf. These eggs soon hatch and the caterpillars begin to spin a
web, under which they feed. This web is extended as they grow
and need more food, enclosing more of the leaves, until quite a
part or all of a branch may be thus enclosed. After feeding thus
for a month or more the caterpillars leave the web, and either in
the ground or in crevices of the bark of the tree spin their cocoons.
The moths may emerge from these cocoons the same year and
lay eggs for a second generation, the caterpillars of which will
feed the same fall, but in New England it is more usual for them to
pass the winter in the cocoon, the moths appearing the following
summer.
As the caterpillars of this insect feed together under a web, it
is easy to cut off this and kill the caterpillars, particularly when
the webs first appear and are small. Burning the webs on the tree
is sometimes resorted to, but many of the caterpillars are liable to
escape, and the tree is liable to be injured by this method. Spray-
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 577
ing with arsenate of lead close around the webs, so that the leaves
next to be enclosed shall have been poisoned, is also a good method
of control. Numerous natural enemies of this insect aid man by
holding it in check to some extent.
Canker Worms.
The canker worms are two closely related insects, known as the
Fall Canker Worm and the Spring Canker Worm. In both species
the caterpillar is an " inchworm " or " looper; " in both the cater-
pillar feeds during the spring months, and when through feeding,
leaves the tree to pupate in the ground; in both the female moth
is wingless; and in both the eggs are laid by the wingless female
on the twigs of the tree, to which she must, therefore, crawl from
the ground.
The moths of the fall canker worm come out of the ground dur-
ing warm days in late October, November and early De-
cember, and the females crawl up the trees to the twigs, where
they lay their eggs in clusters. These eggs hatch about the time
the leaves appear the following spring, and the caterpillars feed for
four or five weeks until full grown, then go into the ground to pu-
pate, the moths from the pupae appearing late in the fall, as al-
ready stated. While the caterpillars are feeding they will, if dis-
turbed, spin down from the trees on silken threads.
The spring canker worm moths come out of the ground during
the first warm days of spring, even in February in some cases,
crawl up the trees to the twigs and lay their eggs. These soon
hatch and the caterpillars feed during about the same months as
those of the fall canker worm, leave the tree at about the same
time and pupate in the ground, but the moths do not emerge that
year, spending the winter as pupae in the ground.
These insects are quite general feeders, consuming the leaves of
the apple, elm, chestnut, pear, oak, hickory, box-elder, maple and
other trees. As the eiggs are laid on the twigs by wingless femaljs,
it is evident that anything which will prevent these females from
climbing the trees will be effective, and accordingly sticky bands
and metal deflectors are extensively used. In general the sticky
mateiial known as " Tree Tanglefoot " has proved the most sue-
378 A Practical Hand Book
cessful material to use for this purpose, bands of tar and printer's
ink needing renewal frequently, while metal deflectors are expen-
sive and often need readjustment to prevent gaps opening,
through which the insects can pass. For the fall canker worm the
Tanglefoot should be applied by the middle of October in a band
from four to six inches wide, while for the spring canker worm it
should be applied the first warm day in February, even if there be
snow on the ground. If the canker worms are already feeding on
the foliage when their presence is first discovered, spraying with a
stomach poison is the most satisfactory remedy.
The White-marked Tussock Moth.
This insect feeds on the leaves of many of our shade and fruit
trees and is quite abundant throughout the eastern United States.
The winter is passed in the egg stage, the eggs being laid in clus-
ters on the old cocoons of the female moths, covered by a white
froth which quickly hardens, forming a crust. These egg masses
and the cocoons on which they occur are found on the larger limbs
and trunks of the trees and sometimes on the smaller twigs, gen-
erally in the latter case with a leaf more or less bound to the
cocoon, thus rendering these more noticeable during the winter.
The eggs hatch in the spring andthe cater pillars feed till full
grown in June. They are then an inch and a half or more in
length, yellow and black in color, and have two long pencils of
black hairs at the head and a third at the hinder end of the body,
besides four short, dense, yellowish, very noticeable tufts in a
row a short distance behind the head, which is coral red. The
caterpillars now go to the trunk and larger limbs, where they
spin their silken cocoons, from which the adult moths soon
escape.
The female moth being wingless, lays her eggs on the outside of
the cocoon from which she emerged, covering them with a white
froth, as already described. The eggs soon hatch and the cater-
pillars crawl to the leaves, where they feed during the latter part
of July and August. When full grown, they in their turn go to the
limbs and trunk to form their cocoons, from which the second gen-
eration of moths escape and lay their eggs which winter over.
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 379
There are, accordingly, two generations of this insect each year,
the feeding periods of the caterpillars being during May and early
June, and late July and August.
To check the destruction caused by this insect, the egg clusters
covered by the white crust may be gathered and burned whenever
they are noticed. Spraying with arsenate of lead early in May
and again the latter part of July will destroy the caterpillars, but
is unnecessary if the egg clusters have been attended to. Banding
the trunks of trees not infested, with Tree Tanglefoot, will protect
these if their branches do not touch those of infested trees, as the
female is wingless, and to reach the trees she or the caterpillars
must crawl up the trunks.
SPECIAL FEEDERS.
The Elm -leaf Beetle.
This insect reached the United States from Europe about seven-
ty-five years ago and is now quite generally distributed through
the eastern states. The elm is its only food plant, and the Euro-
pean elm generally suffers more from its attacks than the Ameri-
can species.
The insect passes the winter as the adult beetle, hiding in any
protected places available, such as attics, old chimneys, etc., and
is often found on the windows in houses in the spring, seeking to
escape to the trees. The beetle is about a quarter of an inch long
and about half as wide, and is yellow in the summer with a dark
band on each side, but after wintering over, the yellow changes to
a dull olive green.
After the elm leaves appear the beetles fly to the trees, and feed,
eating irregular holes and laying their eggs. These are yellow in
color and are placed on the under sides of the leaves, generally
along a vein and in two rows, and number from a dozen to thirty.
The beetle feeds and lays its eggs in this way for several weeks.
The grubs which hatch from these eggs feed on the under surface
of the leaves, leaving the upper surface entire, for fifteen or twenty
380 A Practical Hand Book
days, then crawl down the tree to the larger limbs, trunk, or even
to the ground, and pupate, either in crevices of the bark or on the
ground, the adult beetles escaping from the pupae after about a
week.
In the more northern states these beetles are the ones which
winter over, and though they may feed somewhat on the leaves
during the fall, do little injury. In the middle and more southern
states, however, they return to the trees and lay eggs for a second
generation of grubs, which feed during the late summer months
and become adult before winter.
It is rarely profitable to spray twice for these insects — once as
soon as the leaves have developed, and again about the time the
young hatch — and the usual treatment is to spray with arsenate
of lead, using about five pounds of the arsenate to fifty gallons of
water, about the time the eggs hatch, the exact date varying con-
siderably with difference of latitude. The spray should be di-
rected so as to reach the underside of the leaves as far as possible,
as the grubs feed only on that side.
If for any reason spraying is not possible or has been neglected,
the trunk and larger limbs of the trees should be made quite
smooth, to leave as few crevices as possible high up where the
grubs might pupate, thus inducing them to come farther down
where they may be destroyed by the use of a contact poison, such
as strong kerosene emulsion. Sticky bands on a tree are of no pro-
tection against this insect, as the beetle flies freely.
The Sugar-maple Borer.
This insect attacks trees in full vigor, the borer making a bur-
row often several feet in length in a single season. Where this
runs obliquely around the trunk or a limb it causes a more or less
complete girdling, seriously injuring, or in some cases where two
or three borers are present, even killing the tree.
The adult beetle is about an inch long, black and yellow, the
markings making it very noticeable. It is found mainly during
July and August, during which period the eggs are laid. The
young borers which hatch from the eggs bore just under the bark,
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 381
mainly in the trunk or near the bases of the larger limbs. Here
the winter is passed, and the following spring the boring is
resumed, the tunnels running in any direction, though most often
upward or obliquely around the tree. Later a deep burrow is
formed farther in the tree, running upward toward the heart.
Here the borer pupates, escaping the following summer as the
adult beetle.
Few effective methods of control can be used against this in-
sect. Discoloration of the bark and particles of frass found on the
trees in the fall may indicate about where a young borer is at
work, and the use of a knife, cutting out the borer there, is advis-
able. If a burrow can be found in which it seems probable a borer
is present but out of reach, a little carbon disulphide placed on
some cotton and pushed into the hole, which should then be stopped
up with soap, putty, or some similar material, should destroy the
borer. Treating the trunks of the trees with a carbolic acid wash
about the middle of June would probably provide some protection
against egg laying on trees thus treated. This wash is made by
adding a gallon of hot water to a gallon of soft soap, adding a pint
of crude carbolic acid and letting it stand twelve hours before di-
luting with eight gallons of soft water. This should be thoroughly
washed over the trunk and also a few feet up on each of the larger
limbs.
Tiie Cottony Maple Scale.
This scale insect is frequently very injurious to maples, par-
ticularly soft maples, and is also sometimes found on other plants.
It is located on the twigs and resembles a small tuft of cotton pro-
truding from beneath a small brown scale.
The insect is not often very noticeable during the spring
months, the cottony portion not having developed. During the
summer, however, the cottony threads form, and among these the
eggs and young occur. The young soon leave the cotton where
they were born, and pass to the leaves and settle down, mainly
along the veins, to feed. Each now secretes a covering scale, and,
before the leaves drop, the insects travel back to the twigs to pass
the winter. In the spring they grow rapidly, and in June produce
the cottony threads, making them more noticeable.
382 A Practical Hand Book
Brushing infested twigs with a brush or broom wet with kero-
sene emulsion has been suggested as a treatment for this insect,
but winter spraying with about twenty per cent, kerosene emul-
sion has given the most successful results.
Oak Galls.
Though a large number of insects attack the various kinds of
oaks, few can ordinarily be regarded as serious pests. If cater-
pillars are feeding on the leaves, spraying with a stomach poison is
usually a sufficient treatment. Borers in the trunk can be handled
as suggested for the maple borer, and sucking insects can be con-
trolled by spraying where they are with a contact poison. Gall
insects, however, may cause perplexity, as neither of the methods
just named would seem to fit this case.
It is very unusual for gall insects to be so abundant on a tree as
to render it liable to die. It is very common, however, for them to
disfigure the tree and thus lead to a desire for treatment. In cases
where galls are formed on the branches they are likely to become
permanent eyesores, and such branches should be promptly cut off
and burned. Elsewhere on the tree there is little which it will pay
to do, and patience will usually be rewarded in a year or two by
the disappearance of the galls, as their makers are gradually over-
come by the natural enemies of these insects.
The Rose-leaf Hopper.
This is a common pest on roses grown out of doors. During
the latter part of May and in June, numerous tiny young of this
insect may be found on the under side of the leaves, from which
they suck the juices, producing whitish spots, and if abundant
may cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. At first these
insects cannot fly, though they can hop freely, but after they
have become adult, disturbing the bush may start them flying in
clouds. These adults are about an eighth of an inch long and pale
yellow in color.
Thorough spraying of Infested plants with kerosene emulsion or
soap is quite effective as a treatment, provided that the spray be
directed against the undersides of the leaves and be driven rather
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 383
suddenly, hitting the insects before they have time to hop or fly
away. If a strong stream of water can be driven at them through
a garden hose, this may be sufficient without resorting to the in-
secticides.
The Rose Plant Louse or Aphis.
Small green plant lice or aphides are frequently met with on
roses during the spring and summer months, gathering most abun-
dantly on the buds and younger leaves. They are nearly always
wingless and increase very rapidly, from four to ten young being
produced almost every day by the adults. These pests feed by
sucking the juices from the plant, and when abundant on the buds
frequently blight them. They can be held in check by spraying
the plants with kerosene emulsion or soap, but it should be borne in
mind that as only those touched by the spray are killed, the spray-
ing must be very thorough to be successful, and if only a few es-
cape, there will be multitudes present again, in the course of three
or four weeks.
The Rose Chafer.
These insects, often known as rose bugs or rose beetles, are
about half an inch long and light brown in color. They appear
about the time the roses begin to bud and seem to feed almost en-
tirely upon the buds and flowers, being present for three or four
weeks. They are not restricted to the rose for food, but attack
the buds and blossoms of various ornamental plants, besides the
blackberry, grape and fruit trees.
The eggs are laid in the ground and the grubs feed on grass
roots, and pupate there. There is, therefore, no successful method
of attacking this insect, except during its adult condition. In
this stage, however, it is very hardy and resistant to poisons. It
can be destroyed by spraying with very strong arsenate of lead,
but even then, it is usually several days before it succumbs, and
during this time it continues feeding, while heavy spraying of the
plants while in bud and flower is hardly practicable. The only
successful treatment, therefore, is by hand-picking, or by jarring
the insects off onto cloths, from which they can be gathered and
384 A Practical Hand Book
destroyed by dropping them into kerosene. As the beetles are
most active during the warm part of the day, this treatment
should be used early in the morning or toward night, when they
are less inclined to fly. Where it is possible to enclose the buds in
paper bags, this will give protection from the beetles, but this is
not always practicable.
The Red Spider.
This animal, which is not really an insect but a mite, is fre-
quently found on the leaves of roses as well as other plants. It is
not larger than a pin head, yellowish or reddish in color, and sucks
the vitality from the plant, causing the leaves gradually to turn
pale and become stunted, and in time the plant dies, unless treat-
ment is applied. These pests are particularly sensitive to
sulphur, however, and flowers of sulphur dusted over the plant,
as much as possible placed on the under side of the leaves, or
mixed with water at the rate of an ounce of the sulphur to a
gallon of water, and sprayed onto the plants, is usually a fairly
satisfactory treatment. In some cases the use of soapsuds in-
stead of the water to add the sulphur to, seems to be more
efficacious.
The Spruce Gall Louse.
Soft, fleshy green galls often noticed in June and July at the
bases of the twigs of different kinds of spruces, are the work of
gall-making plant lice. The lice feed in chambers in the galls,
which are often an inch long and half as wide, during the months
named, but by August the galls crack open outside each cavity
and turn brown, thus permitting the lice to escape. During the
fall and winter these lice, in one stage or another, may be found on
the tree, and the following spring eggs are laid, from which the gall
inhabiting insects are produced.
The formation of a gall at the base of a twig nearly always
causes the death of that twig, and a tree where the insects are
abundant becomes thin, with many dead twigs showing brown
galls, and as a whole is by no means the ornament it should be.
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 385
When the galls first appear on a tree, it is generally best to pick
them off and destroy them. When they are abundant, this meth-
od becomes no longer practicable, and a thorough spraying with
two pounds of soap dissolved in a gallon of water, applied about
the third or fourth week in April, is the best treatment available.
The Oyster-shell Scale.
This scale insect attacks the willow, poplar, ash, lilac, and sev-
eral other ornamental trees and shrubs, besides the apple, and fre-
quently destroys the tree it is on. The scale covering the insect is
bluntly pointed at one end, rounded at the other, two or three
times as long as broad, and generally more or less bent toward one
side, somewhat resembling an oyster-shell in form. It varies in
color, but is some shade of gray or brown. During the winter the
scale shelters beneath itself the dead female insect which formed
it, together with from thirty to one hundred pale straw-colored
eggs. These eggs hatch between the middle of May and the tenth
of June, according to the latitude, climate and advancement of the
season, and the very minute whitish young crawl about seeking for
places where they may settle down to feed. When such places are
found, they thrust their beaks through the bark and begin to suck
the sap from the plant. A scale now begins to be formed over
the back of the insect, which becomes adult by fall. The eggs are
laid under the scale and the insect dies.
In the more northern states these eggs remain under the scale
till the following year, before hatching. Further south they may
hatch the same season, giving a second generation the same year.
The fact that the eggs of this pest all hatch at about the same
time is made use of in the treatment employed, which is to spray
very thoroughly as soon as the eggs hatch — at which time the
tiny whitish young can be seen crawling around, if looked sharply
for — with linseed oil emulsion, made as follows:
Hard soap, 1 pound
Raw linseed oil, 1 gallon
Water to make 12 gallons
Dissolve the soap in a small quantity of warm water, adil the
386 A Practical Hand Book
oil and churn by forcing through the spray pump, pointing the
nozzle back into the mixture, until it becomes thick; then add the
rest of the water, and spray.
It is well to repeat this treatment about ten days later, both
because the first treatment may have missed some of the insects
and because some of the eggs may not have hatched at the time of
the first spraying.
INSECTICIDES.
Arsenate of Lead.
This is now sold ready for use, by adding the requisite amount of
water, by a number of manufacturers. It is probably our most
effective stomach poison, for though costing more than paris
green, it remains on the plant where it has been sprayed a much
longer time, and is less liable to burn the foliage. Unless large
quantities are to be used it is better to buy it than to make it, but
if directions for making are desired, these will be supplied on appli-
cation to the Agricultural Experiment Station of any state.
Ordinarily about three pounds of arsenate of lead should be
mixed with fifty gallons of water to spray, but for the gypsy moth,
brown-tail moth and elm-leaf beetle, five pounds should be used
instead. In spraying it is necessary that the sediment should be
constantly stirred, in order for it to be carried out through the
pump and be evenly distributed.
Paris Green.
This material is rarely as eff"ective as the last, and is only men-
tioned because it may in some cases be difficult to obtain the
other. One third of a pound of paris green should be mixed with
half a pound of quicklime which has just been slaked in some
water, and water should be added to make a total of about fifty
gallons, and the whole well stirred while spraying, for the reason
stated above.
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants. 387
Soap.
Plant lice, leaf hoppers, etc., may generally be destroyed by
spraying them with one pound of any common laundry soap dis-
solved in four or five gallons of water. Extreme thoroughness of
application is necessary, as only those insects actually touched by
the spray are affected.
Kerosene Emulsion.
This material is more effective than soap for sucking-insects,
but is more difficult to make. To prepare it, take half a pound of
any hard soap shaved fine, and dissolve in a gallon of hot water.
Then remove from the fire and add two gallons of kerosene and
churn with a spray pump, turning the nozzle of the pump back
into the mixture, which should soon become thick and therefore
difficult to force through the pump. When this condition has
been reached, take one part of the mixture or stock material and
add it to nine parts of water, if for use on plant lice; or to six parts
of water for leaf hoppers; mix well and spray. If the water is
hard add some borax or soda to soften it.
Many other kinds of insects frequently attack our shade trees
and shrubs, and in case of doubt as to their identity and the appro-
priate treatment to be given, specimens of the insect or its work
can be sent to the Agricultural Experiment Station of the state in
which the person desiring assistance resides. Information and
advice as to the best methods of treatment for different insects are
supplied by the officials of these stations, without charge.
TREES, SHRUBS AND PLANTS FOR
SPECIAL PURPOSES.
Plants Particularly Adapted for Rock-Gardens.
Page
Adiantum pedatum 148
Ajuga genevensis 151
Ajuga metallica var. crispa 151
Allium azureum 151
Anemone pennsylvanica 156
Anemone Pulsatilla 156
Anemone sylvestris 156
Aquilegia canadensis 157
Aquilegia caerulea 157
Arabis albida 158
Arabis alpina 158
Arctostaphylos uva ursi 158
Artemisia frigida 159
Artemisia pontica 159
Artemisia stellariana 159
Aster alpinus 161
Callirhoe involucrata 169
Campanula carpatica 170
Cerastium tomentosum 175
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides 175
Chionodoxa luciliae 177
Crocus vernus 187
Cypripedium acaule 187
Cypripedium sf>cctabile 188
Daphne cneorum 188
Dennstaedtia (Dicksonia)
punctilobula 189
Dianthus deltoides 191
Dianthus plumarius 191
Dodecathcon mcadia 193
Epigxa rcpcns 195
Epimedium alpinum var. rubrum 195
Erythronium Amcricanum 196
Erythronium dcns-canis 196
Galanthus nivalis 203
Galium borcalo 203
Gentiana Andrcwsii 203
Geranium Endre&si
Geranium platypetalum
Geranium sanguineum
Goodyera pubescens
Gypsophila repens
Hedysarum muliijugum
Pace
204
204
204
205
205
206
Helianthcmum (all varieties) 207
Helleborus niger 209
Hepatica (all varieties) 210
Heuchera sanguinea 211
Hieracium aurantiacum 213
Houstonia caerulea 213
Hypericum moserianum 216
Iberis (all varieties) 216
Iriscristata 218
Iris pumila 218
Jasione perennis 220
Juniperus sabina 221
Junipcrus sabina var. prostrata 221
Juniperus sabina var.
tamarisci folia 221
Lathyrus laiifolius 225
Lalhyrus vernus 225
Lilium tenuifolium 231
Linum p>crenne 231
Lychnis chalcedonica 236
Lychnis dioica var. florc-pleno 236
Lychnis flos-cuculi 236
Lychnis flos-cuculi var. plenissima
236
Lychnis Haageana 237
Lychnis viscaria var. splcndcn* 237
Lychnis alba var. flore-pleno 235
Lycium halimifoliuin 237
Lysimachta nummubria 238
Malva moschata 240
Mertcnsia pulmonarioi«'» 241
390
A Practical Hand Book
Mitchella repens
Myosotis palustris
Nierembergia rivularis
(Enothera missouriensis
CEnothera speciosa
CEnothera fruticosa var.
Onoclea sensibilis
Ononis rotundifolia
Opuntia missouriensis
Pachysandra terminalis
Papaver nudicaule
Phlox amoena
Phlox divaricata
Phlox ovata
Phlox stellaria
Phlox subulata
Physalis Franchetti
Polemonium reptans
Potentilla hybrida
Primula auricula
Primula Sieboldi
Primula Polyantha
Rosa wichuraiana
Rubus laciniatus
Sanguinaria canadensis
242
243
245
246
246
Yourigii 246
246
247
247
248
250
255
257
255
258
258
258
267
270
270
271
271
286
307
312
Saxifraga cordifolia
314
Scilla sibirica
315
Sedum acre
315
Sedum album
315
Sedum Sieboldii
316
Sedum stoloniferum
317
Sempervivum (all varieties)
317
Seneceo pulcher
318
Silene maritima var. flore-pleno
318
Silene virginica
318
Sisyrinchium grandiflorum
319
Starice latifolia
326
Thymus (all varieties)
338
Trillium (all varieties) 340
,341
Tunica saxifraga
343
Veronica spuria
348
Veronica incana
348
Veronica repens
348
Veronica rupestris
348
Vinca minor
352
Viola cornuta
353
Viola pedata
353
Woodsia ilvensis
355
Woodwardia angustifolia
355
Plants for Bog Gardens or Good in Wet Places.
Acorus calamus var. variegatus
Arundo donax
Arundo donax var. variegata
Azalea arborescens
Azalea canadensis
Azalea calendulacea
Azalea nudiflora
Azalea Vaseyi
Azalea viscosa
Benzoin odoriferum
Cephalanthus occidentalis
Chrysanthemum uliginosum
Clethra alnifolia
Cornus stolonifera
Cornus sanguinea
Cornus amomum
148
Cypripedium acaule
187
160
Cypripedium spectabile
188
160
Dodecaetheon meadia
193
163
Doronicum plantagineum
193
163
Doronicum Clusii
193
163
Doronicum caucasicum
193
163
Empetrum nigrum
194
163
Epimedium macranthum
195
163
Eryngium aquaticum
196
165
Erythronium Americanum
196
174
Erythronium grandiflorum
196
179
Eulalia, See Miscanthus
196
181
Eupatorium purpureum
198
185
Funkia subcordata var. grandi-
184
florum
202
184
Funkia lancifolia
202
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants.
391
Gentiana Andrewsii
Geranium maculatum
Hamamelis virginiana
Hemerocallis (all varieties)
Heracleum villosum
Hibiscus moscheutos
Hibiscus moscheutos var. crimson
eye
Houstonia caerulea
Hydrophyllum canadense
Ilex opaca
Ilex verticillata
Iris Kaempferi
Iris pseudacorus
Iris sibirica
Iris versicolor
Kalmia latifolia
Ledum latifolium
Lobelia cardinalis
Lobelia syphilitica
Lythrum salicaria
Lythrum salicaria var, roseum
Miscanthus sinensis
Miscanthus sinensis var. gracil-
limus
Miscanthus sinensis var. varie-
gatus
Miscanthus sinensis var. zcbrinus 242
Monarda didyma
Myosotis palustris
Nemopanthus fascicularius
Nierembcrgia rivularis
Oenothera fruticosa Youngii
203
Oenothera speciosa
246
204
Onoclea (Matteuccia)
206
struthiopteris
246
209
Osmunda cinnamomea
247
211
Osmunda regalis
247
212
Phalaris arundinacea
253
I
Polygonatum multiflorum
267
212
Polygonum sachalinense
268
213
Potentilla fruticosa
270
215
Ranunculus aconitifolius
278
217
Ranunculus acris var. flore-
217
pleno
279
218
Ranunculus repens var. flore-
219
pleno
279
219
Rhexia virginica
279
219
Rhododendron maximum
281
223
Rosa spinosissima
291
226
Rosa Carolina
285
232
Sambucus nigra
311,312
232
Sambucus racemosa
312
238
Sarracenia Drummondii
313
238
Sarraccnia purpurea
313
241
Stenanthium occidentale
326
Stuartia pentagyna
327
241
Taxus canadensis
334
Trillium grandiflorum
340
241
Trollius europaeus
341
242
Typha latifolia
343
242
Ulmaria palmata
344
243
Ulmaria pcntapetala
344
245
Ulmaria rubra
344
245
Viburnum accrifoHum
349
246
Viburnum alnifolium
349
A Few Good Hedge Plants.
Berbcris Thunbergii
Chamaccyparis obtusa
Crataegus crus-galli
Crataegus oxyacantha
Cydonia japonica
Gleditschia triacanthos
Ilex crenata
Juniperus virginiana
166 Ligustrum amurcnse
176 Ligustrum ibota
186 Ligustrum ovalifuliuiii
186 Picca alba
187 Picea excclsa
205 Rhamnus cathartica
217 Rosa rubiginosii
222 Salix jjentandra
227
228
228
259
260
279
290
310
392
A Practical Hand Book
Spiraea Thunbergii
Syringa vulgaris
Thuya occidentalis
Tsuga canadensis
325 Viburnum dentatura
330 Viburnum cassinoides
335 Viburnum nudum
342
349
349
350
Some of the Best Vines and Climbers.
Actinidia polygama and arguta
Akebia quinata
Ampelopsis quinquifolia
Ampelopsis quinquifolia var.
Englemanni
Ampelopsis heterophylla
Apios tuberosa
Aristolochia macrophylla
Celastrus scandens
Clematis paniculata
Clematis virginiana
Clematis lanuginosa var. Henryi
Clematis lanuginosa var. Jack-
mani
Clematis lanuginosa var. Mme.
Andre
Clematis lanuginosa var. Mme.
Baron Veillard
Clematis montana
Clematis hybrida var. New
England
Decumaria barbara
Euonymus radicans
Hedera Helix
Humulus lupulus
Ipomoea pandurata
Lonicera periclymenum var.
belgica
Lonicera Heckrotti
148
151
154
154
154
156
158
174
181
181
180
180
180
180
180
180
188
197
206
213
218
234
233
Lonicera japonica
Lonicera japonica var. aureo-
reticulata
Lonicera japonica var. Halliana
Lonicera sempervirens
Lycium halimifolium
Menispermum canadense
Periploca graeca
Polygonum Baldschuanicum
Pueraria Thunbergiana
Rosa setigera var. Baltimore
Belle
Rosa hybrida var. Carmine
Pillar
Rosa multiflora var. Crimson
Rambler
Rosa multiflora var. Debutante
Rosa multiflora var. Dorothy
Perkins
Rosa multiflora var. Lady Gay
Schizophragma hydrangeoides
Tecoma radicans
Tecoma grandiflora
Vitis coignetiae
Vitis labrusca
Vitis vulpina
Wistaria chinensis
Wistaria multijuga
233
233
233
234
237
241
253
267
274
291
292
292
292
292
292
314
334
335
354
354
354
354
355
;Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Fruit.
Berberis canadensis
Berberis amurensis
Berberis Thunbergii
Celastrus scandens
Celtis occidentalis
165
165
166
174
174
Cotoneaster Simonsi
Cotoneaster microphylla
Crataegus crus-galli
Crataegus cordata
Crataegus coccinea
185
185
186
186
186
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants.
393
Crataegus oxyacantha
Elaeagnus argentea
Elaeagnus longipes
Euonymus Americanus
Euonymus alatus
Euonymus nanus
Euonymus europaeus
Euonymus radicans
Ilex crenata
Ilex opaca
Ilex verticillata
Ligustrum ibota
Ligustrum vulgare
Lonicera Morrowi
Lonicera Ruprechtiana
Lonicera tatarica
Lonicera xylosteum
Magnolia glauca
Magnolia macrophylla
Magnolia tripetala
Myrica cerifera
Prunus maritima
Prunus pumila
Ptelea trifoliata
P>'racantha coccinea
Pyrus baccata
Pyrus coronaria
Pyrus floribunda
186 Rhamnus dahurica 279
194 Rhamnus Frangula or
194 Carolineana 279
197 Rhodotypos kerrioides 282
197 Rhus glabra 283
197 Rhus typhina 283
197 Rosa rugosa 289
197 Rosa blanda 286
217 Rosa multiflora 286
217 Rosa rubiginosa 290
217 Sambucus racemosa 312
228 Sorbus arbutifolia 320
228 Sorbus aucuparia 320
234 Sorbus hybrida 321
234 Symphoricarpos racemosus 328
235 Symphoricarpos vulgaris 328
235 Symplocus crataegoides 328
239 Taxus canadensis 334
239 Taxus cuspidata 334
239 Viburnum acerifolium 349
243 Viburnum alnifolium 349
272 Viburnum cassinoides 349
273 Viburnum dentatum 349
274 Viburnum dilatatum 350
275 Viburnum lantana 350
275 Viburnum lentago 350
275 Viburnum nudum 350
276 Viburnum opulus 351
Trees and Shrubs with Distinct Colored Leaves
OTHER THAN GrEEN.
Acer negundo var. aurea
marginatum 144
Acer platanoides var. Schwedleri 144
Acer platanoides var. Geneva 144
Acer palmatum var. atropurpur
eum
Acer palmatum var. dissect um
atropurpureum
Acer japonicum var. aureum
145
145
143
Acer pscudo-platanus var. Worleei
Berberis vulgaris var. atropur-
purea
145
165
Betula alba var. atropurpurea 167
Calluna vulgaris var. aurea 169
Catalpa bignonioides var.
purpurea
Chamaecyparis pisifcra var
filifera aurea
Chamaecypjaris pisiferavar.
plumosa aurea
Chamaecyparis pisifera var. aurea 176
Comus mascula var variegata IM
Cornus sanguinca var. variegata 184
Cornus alba var. Spaethi 1S3
Corylus maxima var. purpurea 185
173
176
177
394
A Practical Hand Book
Diervilla florida var. variegata 192
Euonymus radicans var. argen-
teo marginatus or reticulatus 197
Fagus sylvatica var. purpurea 199
Fagus sylvatica var. purpurea
Riversi 200
Fraxinus pennsylvanica var.
aucubaefolia 201
Juniperus communis var. aurea 220
Juniperus chinensis var. argen-
teo variegata 221
Juniperus virginiana var. ele-
gantissima 222
Kerria japonica var. argenteo-
variegata 223
Ligustrum ovalifolium var.
variegatum 228
Philadelphus coronarius var.
aureus 253
Physocarpus opulifolius var.
aurea 259
Picea alba var. aurea 259
Picea excelsa var. Finedonensis 260
Picea pungens 262
Pinus Thunbergi var. oculus-
draconis 263
Populus alba 268
Populus deltoides var. Van
Geertii 269
Prunus persica var. purpurea 272
Prunus cerasifera var. atropur-
purea 271
Ptelea trifoliata var. aurea 274
Quercus pedunculata var. con-
cordia 278
Sambucus nigra var. aurea 311
Symphoricarpos vulgaris var.
variegatus 328
Taxus baccata var. argent ea 334
Thuya occidentalis var. alba 335
Thuya occidentalis var. lutea 336
Thuya occidentalis var. Ver-
vseneana 337
Thuya orientalis var. aurea 337
Thuya orientalis var. elegantis-
sima 337
Ulmus campestris var. antarctica
aurea 345
Ulmus campestris var. Louis van
Houtte 345
Ulmus scabra var. atropurpurea 345
A Few of the Best Hardy Ferns.
Adiantum pedatum 148
Dennstaedtia (Dicksonia) punc-
tilobula 189
Onoclea sensibilis 246
Onoclea (Matteuccia) struthiop-
teris 246
Osmunda cinnamomea
Osmunda claytoniana
Osmunda regalis
Pterib aquilina
Woodsia ilvensis
Woodwardia angustifolia
247
247
247
274
355
355
L^
INDEX
A
Ash,
201
Abbreviations,
140
American,
201
Aconite,
147
Aucuba-leaved.
201
Adam's Needle, ; t> 1
^lUr-tOS) 356
Black,
201
Alder,
151
European,
201
Black,
217
Flowering,
201
Cut-leaved,
152
Weeping,
201
Alkanet,
155
Ash berry.
165
Allspice,
169
Aspen,
269
Carolina, f 3
(111
-♦f) 169
American,
270
Almond,
270
Large Toothed,
269
Double Pink,
270
Asphodel,
161
Double White,
270
Aster,
161
Alpine Rose,
281
Mountain,
161
Althaea, ZlS"
(111.
It) 212
Stokes,
327
Alum Root,
211
Tartarian,
161
Apache Plume,
204
Aquatic Garden Effects,
123
Aralia,
143
Autumn Crocus,
182
Five- leaved,
143
Auricula,
270
Arbor Vitac,
335
Avens,
204
American,
335
Douglas' Little Gem,
337
B
Geo. Pcabody's,
336
Baby's Breath,
205
Globe,
336
Bachelor's Button,
278
Golden,
336
Bald Cypress,
m
Heath -leaved.
336
Balloon Flower,
266
Hovey's,
336
Semi-double,
266
Pyramidal,
337
White,
266
Queen Victoria,
335
Balm,
241
River's,
337
Variegated,
241
Siberian,
337
Balm of Gilcad,
269
Tom Thumb,
336
Barberry,
165
Vervacne's,
337
Common,
165
Weeping,
336
Japanese, -V 3 (III.
¥c) 166
Arbutus,
195
Purple-leaved,
165
Trailing,
195
Siebold's,
165
Arrow Wood,
349
Barren wort,
195
Arsenate of Lead,
386
Bass-woo<l,
339
Artichoke,
209
American,
339
Jerusalem,
209
Cut-leaved,
339
(395)
396
A Practical Hand Book
' t:'
Bass-wood, European,
339
Bladder-nut, American,
326
Golden-barked,
339
Bladder Senna,
182
Bastard Indigo,
153
Blanket Flower,
202
Bean,
156
Blazing Star,
(III. 29) 227
Wild,
156
Bleeding-heart,
191
Beam-tree,
321
Blood root.
312
White,
321
Blue Beech,
171
Bean-tree, ^ ^
173
Bluebell.
170
Indian,
173
Blueberry,
346
Bearberry,
158
Blue-eyed Grass,
319
Bed-straw,
203
Blue Succory,
173
Beard Tongue,
252
Blue Spiraea,
171
Bee Balm,
242
Bluet,
174, 213
Beech,
199
Mountain.
174
American,
199
Bouncing Bet,
213
Copper,
199
Box, ^J
169
Cut-leaved,
(111.
71) 199
Box-thorn,
237
European,
199
Chinese,
237
River's Purple,
199
Bracken,
274
Weeping, i^ i'
(111.
m) 199
Brake,
274
Bellwort,
346
Bramble,
307
Perfoliate,
346
Cut-leaved,
307
Betony,
325
Brown-tail Moth, The,
374
Large Flowered,
325
Buckeye,
149
Wood,
325
Ohio,
149
Bergamot,
242
Yellow.
149
White,
242
Buckthorn.
213, 279
Biota,
337
Laurel-leaved,
279
Golden,
337
Sea,
213
Oriental,
337
Buffalo Berry
318
Birch,
166
Bugbane,
179
Canoe,
167
Bugle,
151
Cut-leaved,
166
Bugleweed,
151
European,
166
Burning-bush,
197
Golden-leaved,
166
Winged,
197
Paper,
167
Buttercup,
278
Purple-leaved,
167
Creeping,
278
Pyramidal,
166
Double White,
278
Red,
167
Butterfly Weed,
160
Weeping,
166
Butternut,
220
White,
166
Button-bush,
174
Yellow,
167
Buttonwood,
265
Bitternut,
212
Bitter-sweet,
174
C
Bitter Vetch,
225
Cactus,
247
Black-eyed Susan.
307
Common,
247
Bladder-nut,
325
Campernella,
244
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants.
397
Campion,
235
Evening,
235
Morning,
234
Rose,
234
Candytuft,
216
Evergreen,
216
Hardy,
216
Lebanon,
150
Candlcberry,
/»^ 377
^^ . Canker Worm, The, -^i^^
^^f^ Canterbury Bell, f 3" (44fr
/ ij«t<jCardinal Flower,
•+25) 170
232
Catalpa, (^^
172
Purple-leaved,
172
Southern,
172
Tea's,
173
Catchfly,
318
Cat-tail,
343
Cedar,
177. 223
White,
177
Red, ^'^(III
.-^) 222
Red Weeping,
222
Chalk Plant,
205
Chamomile,
156
Dwarf,
168
False,
168
Kelway's,
156
Cherry,
273
Indian,
273
Japanese,
273
Sand,
273
Chestnut,
172
American,
172
Paragon,
172
Chinquapin,
172
Chokcberry,
320
Christmas-rose,
209
Cinquifoil, ., if-
Shrubby, ^U^x^^^i*^
-^ 270
Climbing Hydrangea,
314
Columbine, (11
I. 17) 157
Californian,
157
Double,
158
European,
157
Golden Spurred.
157
Long Spurred,
157
Mexican,
157
Columbine, Rocky Mountain, 157
Wild,
157
Comfrey,
328
Compass-plant,
319
Cone Flower, 194,
308. 226
Yellow,
226
Contents,
7
Coral Bells,
211
Cork Tree,
253
Chinese,
253
Cornel,
184
Bailey's,
184
Silky,
184
Cornelian Cherr>\
183
Variegated,
183
Cottony Maple Scale, The,
381
Cottonwood,
269
Cowslip,
271
English,
271
Crab,
275
Bechtel's,
275
Flowering, (ill
21) 276
Hall's Flowering.
276
Wild,
275
Cranberry Bush,
351
Dwarf.
351
Crane's Bill,
204
Crimson Eyed Hibiscus, '^ ^
7ttt. 6«>)
Crimson Glory Vine,
354
Crowbcrry,
195
Cuchoo- flower,
236
White.
236
Cucumber Tree,
238
Large-leaved,
239
Cup-plant,
319
Currants,
283
Double Flowered.
284
Missouri.
284
Mountain,
283
Red Flowered,
284
Wild,
284
Cushion Flower,
314
White,
314
Cushion-pink,
159
White.
159
Cypress.
176. 177
398
A Practical Hand Book
?7
N
Daffodil,
244
Hoop Petticoat,
244
Daisy.
165
English,
165
Giant,
179
Shastae, % 3
(111. 4tt) 179
Turfing,
179
Dark Mullen,
347
Day-lily,
202, 209
White,
202
Double,
210
Decumary,
188
Dendrobium,
226
Desmodium,
226
Dielytra,
191
Distances Apart for Plants, 358
Dog's Tooth Violet,
196
Dogwood,
182
Alternate-leaved,
183
Pink Flowering,
184
Round-leaved,
183
Weeping,
184
White Flowering,
184
White-fruited,
183
Driveway Treatment,
(111. 129)
Dropwort,
344
Double,
344
Dutchman's Pipe, ';'' 7
{Ul-m) 158
Dyer's Broom,
203
£
Elder,
311
Cut-leaved,
312
Golden,
311
Red Berried,
312
Variegated,
312
Elm,
345
American, /A 7
345
Blandford,
346
Camperdown,
346
English,
345
Golden-leaved,
345
Purple-leaved,
345
Scotch,
346
Slippery,
345
Van Houttei's,
345
Elm-leaf Beetle, The,
379
Empress Tree,
251
Evening Primrose,
246
White,
246
Yellow,
246
Everlasting,
^ 155
Explanations,
140
F
Fall Web Worm, The,
376
False Dragonhead,
259, 193
Feather-grass,
327
Feathered Columbine,
335
Fern,
148
Chain,
355
Cinnamon,
247
Gossamer or Hay,
189
Interrupted,
247
Ostrich,
246
Royal, :; /
(111.-^ 247
Sensitive,
246
Fescue Grass,
200
Blue,
200
Feverfew,
178
Fir,
142
Balsam,
142
Cilician,
142
Nordman,
142
Spanish,
134
Veitch's,
143
Washington,
142
White,
142
Fire Bush,
187
Fire-pink,
318
Flag,
218
Dwarf,
219
East Siberian,
219
Siberian,
219
Water,
219
White Siberian,
219
Yellow-banded,
218
Flea-bane,
195, 218
Foam-flower,
338
Forget-me-not,
243
Fox Berry,
347
Foxglove, y/ (111
. m) 91, 193
%\
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants.
399
Fringe,
177
Purple,
282
White,
(IIL 27) 177
Fuchsia,
201
Hardy,
201
G
Garden Heliotrope,
347
Garden-plans,
130-139
Garland Flower,
188
Gas Plant, ^ /
(m. Ai) 191
Gentian,
203
Closed,
203
Geranium,
204
Wild,
204
German Iris,
^'3 (lll.iM^
Giant Bay,
281
Giant Reed,
160
Variegated,
160
Globe Flower,
223, 341
Double,
223, 342
Variegated,
223
Globe Thistle,
194
Glory of the Snow,
177
Glossary,
140
Goat's Beard,
160, 162
Goat's Rue,
203
Golden Bell,
200
Drooping,
200
Fortune's,
200
Upright,
200
Gold Flower,
216
Golden Glow,
308
Golden Rod,
319
Goldentuft,
153
Grape,
354
Fox,
354
Frost,
354
Grape Hyacinth,
243
Grasswort,
175
Starry,
175
Great Laurel,
281
Groundsel,
318
Groundsel-tree,
164
Guidcr Rose,
351
Gout weed,
149
Gypsy Moth, The,
373
Hackberry,
174
Hair Grass,
242
Hawkweed,
213
Orange,
213
Hawthorne,
186
English,
186
Ha7el.
185
Cut-leaved,
185
Golden-leaved,
185
Purple- leaved,
185
Heather,
169
Golden,
169
Hedge Plants,
391
Hemlock,
(III. 23) 342
American,
342
Carolina,
342
Sargent's Weeping,
342
Hercules Club,
158
Hickory,
212
Shagbark,
213
Swamp,
212
Hobble Bush.
349
Hollyhock,
152
Alleghany,
152
Holly,
217
Homestead Lily,
209
Honey Locust,
205
Weeping,
205
Honeysuckle,
233
Belgian,
234
Chinese,
233
Fly,
235
Golden,
233
Hall's, 37
(III. m) 2SS
Fragrant.
233
Japanese,
233
Scarlet Trumpet,
234
Siberian,
235
Tartarian,
235
White-bush,
235
Hop,
213
Hop Hornbeam,
24S
Hop Tree,
274
Golden,
274
400
A Practical Hand Book
^
^tr
Horehound,
240
Jonquil,
244
Hornbeam,
171
Judas Tree,
175
Horse Chestnut,
149
Double White,
149
K
Dwarf,
150
How to Plant,
358
Kentucky Coffee
-tree,
205
Huckleberry,
347
Kerosene Emulsion,
287
Hairy,
347
Kerria,
282
Swamp,
347
White,
282
House-leek,
317
Knap-weed,
174
Irish,
318
Knot Weed,
267
Hyacinth,
214
Tall,
268
Dutch,
214
Kudzu Vine,
274
Grape,
243
«
Summer,
203
L
Hysop,
216
Laburnum,
224
/
Weeping,
224
:> I
Lady's SHpper,
r f (!"■ »»>
1 187
Illustrations,
13-129
Showy,
187
Indian Currant,
328
Lamb-kill,
222
Variegated,
328
Lantern Plant,
258
Indigo,
164
Chinese,
258
Inkberry,
217
Larch,
224
Insecticides,
386
American,
224
Insects and Pests,
369
European,
225
Iron Wood,
248
Golden,
273
Ivy,
154
Japanese,
225
Boston,
154
Larkspur,
189
English,
206
Chinese,
189
Japanese,
154
Chinese White,
189
Kenil worth,
231
Laurel,
223
Mountain,
g^f
223
J
Lavender,
225
Jacob's Ladder,
266
Hardy,
235
Juneberry,
153
Hardy White,
235
Spike-flowering,
153
Cotton,
313
Joint Weed,
267
Lawns and how to Make Them,
365
Joe-Pye-Weed,
198
Lead Plant,
153
Juniper,
220
Leadwort,
175
Chinese,
221
Leather Leaf,
177
Chinese Golden,
221
Leatherwood,
193
Chinese Variegated,
221
Lebanon Candyt
uft,
150
Common,
220
Lemon Lily,
209
Irish,
221
Leopard's Bane,
193
Japanese,
221
Leopard Moth, The,
370
Savin,
221
Lilac,
329
Swedish,
221
Chinese,
r^
329
f^JtJLAU*^
f U-^
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants.
401
Lilac, Chionanthus-leaved, 329
Common Purple,^ 330
Common White,^7 (ill. 5f) 330
Japanese,
Persian,
Lily,
African,
Bateman's,
Brown's,
Canadian,
Coral,
Golden-banded
Gray's,
Hanson's,
Henry's,
Madonna,
Martagon,
Melpomene,
Philadelphia,
Siberian,
Spotted,
Thunbergian,
Tiger,
Tiger, Double,
Trumpet,
Turk's Cap,
Wallace's,
Wood,
Lily of the Valley,
Shrub.
Linden,
American,
Pyramidal,
Silver-leaved,
Weeping,
Live Forever,
Liver Leaf,
Locust,
Black,
Golden,
Thorn less,
Loose Strife,
Japanese
Purple,
Lungwort,
Lymc-grass,
Blue,
329
329
If 7 (111.^) 150
150
230
229
229
231
229
230
230
230
229
230
231
230
231
230
230
231
231
230
231
230
231
182
262
329
339
339
339
339
317
210
285
285
285
285
238
238
238
241, 275
194
194
M
Madwort,
Austrian,
Magnolia, / X /
Maidenhair Tree,
Mandrake,
Maple,
Ash-leaved,
Colchicum,
Cork-barked,
Geneva,
Japanese,
Mountain,
Norway,
Red,
Rock,
Scarlet,
Schwedler's,
Striped Barked,
Sugar,
Silver,
Swamp,
Sycamore,
Tartarian,
White,
Wier's.
Marjoram,
Wild,
Marguerite,
Marsh Rosemary,
Matrimony Vine,
May,
English,
Apple,
Mayflower.
Meadow Beauty.
Rue,
Tall,
Mezcreum,
Michaelmas Daisies,
Mock Orange,
Double,
Monkshood.
Fisher's,
Wild.
Variegated.
153
153
(III. in)
204
266
143-147
144
144
143
144
143-145
146
144
146
146
146
144
144
146
146
146
145
147
146
146
247
247
178
326
237
186
186
266
195
279
335
335
188
161
253
254
147. 148
147
147
148
402
A Practical Hand Book
Moon-flower,
218
Oak, Swamp,
276
Moon-seed,
241
Willow-leaved,
277
Montbretia,
341
Oak Galls,
382
Moorwort,
155
Old Woman,
159
Mosquito Plant,
352
Oleaster,
194
Moss Pink,
258
Japanese,
194
White,
258
Onion,
151
Mountain Ash,
320
Flowering,
151
American,
320
Orchis,
206
European,
320
Yellow Fringed,
206
Golden,
321
Osage Orange,
340
Oak-leaved,
321
Osier,
183
Weeping,
321
Red,
183, 184
Mountain Fleece,
326
Variegated,
184
Mountain's Cranberry,
347
Oswego Tea,
242
Mountain Holly,
245
Outdoor Culture of Roses,
361
Laurel, (ill.
23,73) 223
Ox-eye,
168, 209
Tobacco,
159
Oyster-shell Scale, The,
385
Mulberry,
242
Red,
243
P
Tea's Weeping,
243
Paeony,
249
White,
243
Cut-leaved,
249
Munstead White,
157
Common,
249
Musk-mallow,
240
Tree,
249
White,
240
Pagoda Tree,
319
Myrtle,
352
Pampas Grass, (ill. 75) 241
White,
352
Japanese,
241
Variegated,
352
Ornamental,
241
Variegated,
241
N
Paris Green,
386
Narcissus,
244
Parsley,
211
Giant,
211
Nettle- tree.
New Jersey Tea,
Nine Bark,
174
173
258
Partridge Berry,
Pasque Flower,
Pea,
242
156
225
0
Pink Perennial,
225
White Perennial,
225
Oak,
276
Peach,
272
Chestnut,
277
Double Rose Colored,
272
English,
278
Double White,
272
English Golden,
278
Double Purple Leaved,
272
English Weeping,
278
Pearl-bush,
198
Mossy-cupped,
277
Pea Tree,
171
Pin,
277
Peppermint,
241
Pyramidal,
278
Pepperidge,
245
Red,
278
Periwinkle,
352
Scarlet.
277
Pig Nut,
212
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants.
"^^yyyM-JL^ Ai.^^^^^^ iyvy,^^
403
Austrian,
Bull,
Japanese,
Japanese Black,
Lofty Bhotan,
Pitch,
Red,
Scotch,
Sun-ray,
Swiss Mountain,
Swiss Stone,
White,
White Dwarf,
Phlox,
Canadian,
Caroline,
Hairy-leaved,
Perennial,
Smooth-leaved,
Pink,
Carthusian,
Double Garden,
Grass,
Scotch,
Pink-root,
Pitcher Plant,
Plants for Bog Gardens,
For Special Purposes,
Plane-tree,
Oriental,
Planting Plans,
Plantain Lily,
Fortune's,
Lance-leaved,
Ovate-leaved,
Siebold's,
Rattlesnake,
Variegated,
Plum,
Beach,
Flowering,
Purple-leaved,
Plume Poppy,
Poker Plant,
Polyanthus,
Polypody,
263
264
263
263
263
265
264
265
263
(111. 115) 264
263
/ -
265
265
255
257
255
255
255
255
190
191
191
191
191
321
313
390
389
265
266
130-141
201
201
202
202
202
205
202
271
272
273
271
168
223
271
268
Poplar, S"/
(111. ^]
1 268
Balsam,
269
Bolle's,
268
Carolina,
269
Cottonwood,
269
Golden-leaved,
269
Lombardy,
(111. 49)
269
Weeping,
269
White,
269
Poppy,
250
Iceland,
250
Iceland White,
250
Oriental,
250
Parkman's,
250
Poppy Mallow,
169
Prairie Dock,
319
Preface,
9
Prickly Pear,
247
Primrose,
246
Common,
271
Missouri,
246
Siebold's,
271
Privet,
227
Amoor River,
227
California,
228
Common,
228
Japanese,
228
Japanese Upright,
227
Pruning,
359
Q
Queen of the Meadows,
344
Quince,
187
Japan,
187
R
Ragged Robin,
237
Raspberry,
307
Flowering,
307
Red Spider, The,
384
Reed-grass,
160
Rest Harrow,
247
Round -leaved.
247
Rhododendrons^^ / /
Rhodora. \a^
Canadian, V y ^
(lU. lot)
103
6-
163
163
aU* 111
404
A Practical Hand Book
Rhubarb,
Ornamental,
Roadside Vine Effects,
Rock Cress,
Rock Garden, "f
Rose Acacia,
Chafer, The,
Culture,
Rose-leaf Hopper,
Rose Mallow,
Rose Plant Louse, or Aphis,
Roses,
Alpine,
Austrian,
Baby Rambler,
Bourbon,
Climbing,
Hybrid Perpetual,
Hybrid Tea,
Japanese,
Memorial,
Persian,
Polyantha,
Prairie,
Red-leaved,
Scotch,
Sweet Briar,
Swamp,
Rosinweed,
Rue,
Rupture-wort,
Rusty Woodsia,
8
Sacaline,
Sage,
Jerusalem,
Meadow,
Silver-leaved,
White Meadow,
Sand Cherry,
Sand Myrtle,
Sandwort,
San Jose Scale,
Sassafras,
Savin,
Prostrate,
279
279
117
158, 163
(111. 413)
284
383
361
382
211
383
285
286
295
294
303
291
295
303
286
286
295
303
290
291
291
290
285
319
309
211
355
268
255
255
311
311
311
273
226
158
371
313
221
221
Savin, Tamarisk-leaved, 221
Scotch Broom, * 188
Sea Holly, 196
Sea Lavender, 326
Sea-pink, . *>% 159
Shadbush, ^iJ^cu^J^t^ OjCl^^*^' 153
Common, 153
Dwarf, 153
Shearing, 359
Sheepberry, 350
Shepherd's Flower, 220
Shooting Star, 193
Shrubs for Special Purposes, ] ^ / 389
With Ornamental Fruit, \ ^ ' 392
Silk Vine,
Silverbell,
Solomon's Seal,
Smoketree,
Snakeroot,
White,
Sneezewort,
Dwarf,
Snowball,
Common,
Japanese, * ^ \
Summer,
Snowberry,
Snowdrop,
Soap- wort,
Sorrel Tree,
Sour Gum,
Southernwood,
Roman,
Small,
Spearmint,
Speedwell,
Bastard,
Common,
Creeping,
Culver's,
Gentian-leaved,
Hoary,
Long-leaved,
Rock,
Spiked,
Spice-bush,
Spiderwort,
253
206
267
282
198
198
205
205
351
351
(inr4^)352
214
328
203
313
248
245
159
159
159
241
347
348
348
348
348
347
348
348
348
348
165
340
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants.
405
Spiderwort, White,
340
Sumach, Shining.
282
Spike Grass,
346
Smooth,
283
Spindle Tree, ' *
(111. W) 197
Staghorn,
283
Spring Adonis,
149
Osbeck's,
283
Crocus,
187
Summer Hyacinth,
203
Spruce,
259
Sun Drops,
246
Alcock's,
259
Flower.
208
Black,
261
Double,
208
Colorado Blue,
262
Hairy-leaved,
208
Cushion,
260
Sun-rose,
207
Douglas',
273
Double,
205
Engleman's,
(111. 15) 260
Swamp Bay,
239
Eastern,
261
Swamp Honeysuckle,
163
Finedon,
260
White,
163
f Glory of the Spruces, 259
Swamp-pink,
163
Inverted,
261
Sweet Flag,
148
Roster's Blue,
262
Variegated,
148
Norway,
260
Sweet Gum,
232
Norway Golden,
260
Peppcrbush, C- 1
(111. 55) 181
Pyramidal,
261
Rocket,
211
Tiger Tail,
262
Williams, .■ vX.-*» ^
>i!^' '^^190
White,
259
Woodruff.
160
Gall Louse,
384
Sycamore,
26S
Spurge,
198
Syringa,
253
Flowering,
198
Golden,
253
Squill,
315
Gordon's,
254
Stagger Bush,
263
Lemoine's,
254
Star-wort,
326
St. Bruno's Lily,
251
T
St. John's Wort,
215
Shrubby,
215
Table of Contents,
7
Stonecrop,
315
Tamarisk,
333
Aizoon,
315
African,
333
Ewer's,
316
Common,
333
Middendorf's,
316
Tansy,
333
Orange,
316
Thorn,
185
Purple-leaved,
316
Cockspur,
186
Showy,
316
Double White,
186
Siebold's,
317
Evergreen,
275
Trailing,
317
Lavallc's,
185
White.
315
Paul's Scarlet,
186
Yellow.
315
Scarlet.
186
Strawberry-bush,
197
Washington,
186
Sugar Maple Borer,
380
Thoroughwort,
198
Sumach,
282
Thrift,
159
Cut-leaved,
283
Tick-seed, ^ "
(111. 5^ 182
Fragrant,
282
Tick Trefoil,
226
406
A Practical Hand Book
Thyme,
338
Water Lily,
245
Common,
338
Cape Cod,
245
Creeping,
338
Water Margin Planting, 7 «'^(lll.^
Golden-leaved,
338
Wayfaring Tree,
350
Gray-leaved,
338
Weigelia,
192
Trailing Arbutus,
195
Variegated,
192
Tree of Heaven,
150
White,
192
Trees for Special Purposes,
389
When to Plant,
357
With Distinct Colored Leaves
White Cup,
245
Other Than Green,
393
White Marked Tussock Moth,
With Ornamental Fruit,
392
White Rod, 'urO-t t^
378
Tritoma,
223
3^ 349
Trumpet Vine,
334
Wild Senna, ^
^ 172
Chinese,
335
Marjoram,
247
Tulip,
(111.-^
) 343
Pink,
318
Tulip Tree,
232
Willow,
309
Tupelo,
245
Babylonian, 35* (}t
?&) 309
Turtlehead,
177
Golden-barked,
311
Tussock Moth,
378
Golden Weeping,
Glass,
309
310
V
Kilmarnock,
310
Valerian,
174
Laurel-leaved,
310
Greek,
267
New American,
310
Red,
174
Red-barked, '
311
Varnish Tree,
224
Rosemary,
310
Vetch,
225
Silky,
311
Bitter,
225
Thurlow's,
309
Vines and Climbers,
392
Wisconsin,
n 309
^309
219
Virgin's Bower,
Virginia Creeper,
Violet,
181
154
353
White, J j^XSa^
Virginian,
Bird*s Foot,
353
Witch Hazel,
206
Common Blue,
353
Common,
206
Horned,
353
Japanese,
206
Russian,
353
Windflower,
155, 156
White,
353
Japanese,
155
Vites,
154
Pennsylvania,
156
Cut-leaved,
154
Winter Protection,
357
Variegated,
154
Woodbine,
Clinging,
154
154
W
Wood Lily,
340
Wake Robin,
340
Wormwood,
159
Walnut,
220
Roman,
159
Black,
220
True,
159
English,
220
Wound-wort,
325
Water-leaf,
215
Whoolly,
325
Trees, Shrubs, Vines and Plants.
407
Yarrow,
Double White,
Double Yellow,
Yellowroot,
147
147
147
356
Yew,
American,
English,
Golden.
Irish,
333
334
334
334
334
University of British Columbia Library
DUE DATE
1
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1
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""'AN
FEB 81979
'm^m^'mr^ammitrm^-'
macMILLAN
LIBRARY
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