A PRACTICAL TREATISE
ON THE
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY:
COMPRISING
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF PERFUMES, SACHET
POWDERS, FUMIGATING MATERIALS, DENTIFRICES,
COSMETICS, ETC., ETC.,
WITH A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE
VOLATILE OILS, BALSAMS, RESINS, AND OTHER NATURAL
AND ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-SUBSTANCES, INCLUDING
THE MANUFACTURE OF FRUIT ETHERS, AND
TESTS OF THEIR PURITY.
BY
DR. C. DEITE,
ASSISTED BY L. BORCHERT, F. EICHBAUM, E. KUGLER,
H. TOEFFNER, AND OTHER EXPERTS.
FROM THE GERMAN BY
WILLIAM T. BRANNT,
EDITOR OP " THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL, RECEIPT-BOOK."
ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS,
PHILADELPHIA:
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.,
INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, 'BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS,
''^-. 810 WALNUT STREET.
1892.
TIE. SIT VII
COPYRIGHT BY
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.
1892.
PRINTED AT THE COLLINS PRINTING HOUSE,
705 Jayne Street,
PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A,
%rag>
PREFACE.
A TRANSLATION of the portion of the
"Handbuch der Parfiimerie-und Toiletteseif-
enfabrikation," edited by Dr. C. DEITE, relat-
ing to perfumery and cosmetics, is presented to
the English reading public with the full confi-
dence that it will not only fill a useful place
in technical literature, but will also prove for
what it is chiefly intended a ready book of
reference and a practical help and guide for
the perfumer's laboratory. The names of the
editor and his co-workers are a sufficient
guaranty of its value and practical usefulness,
they all^ being experienced men, well schooled
each in the particular branch of the industry,
the treatment of which has been assigned to
him.
The most suitable and approved formulae,
tested by experience, have been given; and
IV PEEFACE.
special attention has been paid to the descrip-
tion of the raw materials, as well as to the
various methods of testing them, the latter
being of special importance, since in no other
industry has the manufacturer to contend with
such gross and universal adulteration of raw
materials.
It is hoped that the additions made here and
there by the translator, as well as the portion
relating to the manufacture of " Fruit Ethers,"
added by him, may contribute to the interest
and usefulness of the treatise.
Finally, it remains only to be stated that,
with their usual liberality, the publishers have
spared no expense in the proper illustration
and the mechanical production of the book ;
and, as is their universal practice, have caused
it to be provided with a copious table of con-
tents and a very full index, which will add
additional value by rendering any subject in it
easy and prompt of reference.
W. T. B.
PHILADELPHIA, May 2, 1892.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY.
PAGE
Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of
the Orient 17
Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use
for embalming the dead ; Arts of the toilet in ancient times 1 - 18
Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews ; Olibanum and
the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by
Herodotus . . . . . . . . .19
Pliny's account of olibanum . . . . .20
Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the
ancients ; The holy oil prescribed by Moses ; Origin of
the sweet- scented ointment " myron" . . . . 21
Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special oint-
ments used for each part of the body ; Introduction of
ointments in Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of for-
eign ointments ; Plutarch on the extravagant use of oint-
ments in Rome ........ 22
Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments ;
Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides . 23
Ancient process of distilling volatile oils ; Dioscorides' s direc-
tions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of
perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the
ancient Romans ; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers 24
Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories b^
the Romans . . ... .25
VI CONTENTS.
Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman
ladies ; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages /
Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physi-
cians, and of Guy de Chanlios '26
Giovanni Marinello's work on " Cosmetics for Ladies ;" In-
troduction of the arts of the toilet into France, by Cather-
ine de Medici and Margaret of Valois . . . .27
Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commence-
ment of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth
century f 28
Importance of the perfumer's craft in France ; Chief seats
of the French perfumery industry . . . .29
Privileges of the parfumeurs-gantiers in France; Use of
perfumes in England ; Act of Parliament prohibiting the
use of perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man
and inveigling him into matrimony .... 30
- - f
CHAPTJ:R-JI.
THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE
OF PERFUMERY.
Derivation of the perfume-substances; Animal substances
used; Occurrence of volatile oils in plants . . .31
, Families of plants richest in oil ; Central Europe the actual
flower garden of the perfumer; Principal localities for the
cultivation of plants . . . . . . .32
Volatile oils and their properties 33
Principal divisions of volatile oils ..... 34
Constitution of terpenes ; Concentrated volatile oils . . 35
Modes of gaining volatile oils ; Expression ... 36
Clarification of the oil 37
Filter for clarifying the oil, illustrated and described . . 38
Distillation 39
Apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a
vegetable substance will yield, illustrated and described . 40
Various stills for the distillation of volatile oils, illustrated
and described . .41
CONTENTS. Vll
PAGE
Distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air ; Separation
of the oil and water ; Florentine flasks, illustrated and
described 46
Separator- funnel, illustrated and described . . .47
Extraction ......... 48
Various apparatuses for extraction, illustrated and described 49
Heyl's distilling apparatus 57
Maceration or infusion ; Pomades ; Purification of the fats
used in the maceration process ..... 58
Huiles antiques ; Old French process of maceration ; Fiver's
maceration apparatus, illustrated and described . 59
Flowers for which" maceration is employed ; Absorption or
enjieurage . . . . . . . . . 60J$t*
Apparatuses for absorption, illustrated -and described . . 61 e
Flowers for which the absorption process is employed ; Stor-
age of volatile oils . . . . . . .65
CHAPTER III.
TESTING VOLATILE OILS.
Extensive adulteration of volatile oils ; Testing volatile oils
as to odor and taste ....... 66
Recognition of an adulteration with fat oil . . .67
Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine ; Dragendorff's test . 68
Hager's tannin test 69
Detection of chloroform ; Detection of benzine . . 71
Quantitative determination of adulterations with alcohol,
chloroform, and benzine ...... 72
Detection of adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids 73
Detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality ;
Test with iodine . . , . . .74
Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test .... 75
Table showing the behavior of volatile oils free from oxygen
towards nitroprusside of copper 76
Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test ; Hager's guaiacum
reaction .... . 78
Vlll CONTENTS.
PAGK
Division of the volatile oils with reference to the guaiacum
reaction 79
Hubl's iodine method 80
A. Kremel's test by titration or saponification with alcoholic
potash lye . . . . . . . .81
Utilization of Maumene's test by F. R. Williams . . 82
Planchon's proposed procedure for the recognition of a
volatile oil 83
CHAPTER IV.
THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY.
Acacia oil or oil of cassie ; Almond oil (bitter) . . .87
Adulterations of oil of bitter almonds and their detection . 90
Angelica oil . . . . . . . . .92
Anise-seed oil . . . . . . . ... 93
Star anise oil . 94
Balm oil ; Basil oil ; Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves . 96
Bergamot oil ; Testing bergamot oil as to its purity . . 97
Cajeput oil . . : , . ...... . 98
Camomile or chamomile oil ; Blue camomile oil ; Green
camomile oil ..... .. . . 99
Caraway oil ; Recognition of the purity of caraway oil . 1 00
Cedar oil ; Cherry-laurel oil ...... 101
Detection of oil of mirbane in cherry- laurel oil ; Cinnamon
oils; Ceylon cinnamon oil 102
Cassia oil 103
Cinnamon-root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves ; Quantitative
determination of cinnamaldehyde in cassia oil . .104
Detection of adulterations in cassia oil ; Citron oil . . 106
Detection of adulterations in citron oil ; Citronella oil ; De-
tection of adulterations in Citronella oil . . . .107
Oil of cloves 108
Test for the value of oil of cloves . . . . .109
Eucalyptus oil 110
Fennel oil 111
CONTENTS. IX
PAGE
Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil ; East
Indian geranium oil; French and African geranium oils . 112
Adulterations of geranium oils ; Jasmine oil, or oil of jessa-
mine . . . . .113
Juniper oil . . . . . . . ; .114
Lavender oil ; Spike oil . . . . . . ^ . 115
Detection of adulterations of lavender oil ; Lemon oil ;
Sponge process of obtaining lemon oil ... . .116
Ecuelle process . . . . . . . .117
Distillation ; Apparatus combining the Ecuelle and distilling
processes, illustrated and described . . . .118
Adulterations of oil of lemons and their detection : Lilac
oil; Oil of limes 121
Licari oil, linaloe oil; Marjoram oils; Spanish marjoram oil 122
Mignonette oil ; Myrrh oil . . . . . .123
Nutmeg oils ; Mace oil ; Adulterations of mace oil and their
detection 124
Opopanax oil ; Orange-peel oil, Portugal oil or essence of
Portugal; Mandarin oil . .' . . . .125
Orange-flower oil or neroli oil ; Neroli Portugal oil ; Culti-
vation of the orange on the French Riviera and yield of
orange blossoms ; Characteristics of oil of orange flowers . 1 26
Adulterations of neroli oil and their detection . . .127
Petit-grain oil ; Oil of orris root . . . . .129
Patchouli oil . . .130
Varieties and characteristics of patchouli oil . . .131
Peppermint oil ; Oil of curled mint ; Peppermint oil and its
varieties ......... 132
American oils of peppermint of high reputation; Mode of
distinguishing American, German, and English oils of
peppermint . . . . . . . . .133
Adulterants of peppermint oil and their detection . .134
Poley oil . . . . ' 135
Pimento oil or oil of allspice ; Rose oil or attar of roses ;
Principal localities of its production; Schimmel & Co.'s,
of Leipzic, Germany, experiment to obtain oil from in-
digenous roses .... . . . 136
X CONTENTS.
PAGE
The rose-oil industry in Bulgaria ; Methods of gathering and
distilling the roses 137
Characteristics of pure rose oil 138
Manner of judging the genuineness of rose oil ; Process for
the insulation and determination of stearoptene in rose oil 139
Adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil . . 140
Test for the adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil era-
ployed in Bulgaria . . . . . . .141
Adulterants of rose oil . . . . . . .142
Tests for rose oil ; Approximate quantitative determination
of spermaceti in rose oil . . . . . .143
Rosemary oil ; Detection of adulterations in rosemary oil . 144
Rosewood oil or rhodium oil; Sandal-wood oil; Sassafras
oil; Characteristics of sassafras oil . . . .115
Thyme oil * ^ . 147
Oil of turpentine ; Austrian oil of turpentine ; German oil
of turpentine ; French oil of turpentine ; Venetian oil of
turpentine . . . . . . . . . 148
American oil of turpentine ; Pine oil ; Dwarf pine oil ;
Krummholz or Latschenoel ; Pine-leaf oil; Templin oil
(Kienoel) ; Balsalm-pine oil .... . . 149
Oil of verbena ; Oil of violet ; Vitivert or vetiver oil . . 150
Wintergreen oil . . . . . . . .151
Birch oil; Artificial preparation of methyl salicylate . . 152
Adulteration of wintergreen oil and its detection ; Ylang-
ylang oil . . . ' _ . . . . . .153
Cananga oil . . . . . . . .154
CHAPTER V.
RESINS AND BALSAMS.
Elementary constituents of resins ; Division of resins ; Hard
resins ; Soft resins or balsams ; Gum-resins . . . 155
Diffusion of resins in the vegetable kingdom ; Benzoin v . 156
Varieties of benzoin and their characteristics . . .157
Peru balsam and mode of obtaining it . . . .159
AVhite Peru balsam , 160
CONTENTS. XI
PAGE
Characteristics of Peru balsam . . . . . .161
Adulterants of Peru balsam and their detection . . .162
Tolu balsam and its characteristics . . . . .166
A new variety of Tolu balsam . .^ . . . . . 167
- Storax ; Liquid storax and its characteristics . . .168
Adulteration of liquid storax and its detection . . .170
Storax in grains ; Ordinary storax . . . . .171
American storax, white Peru balsam, white Indian balsam,
or liquid-ambar ; Myrrh . . . '. . . 172
\ Myrrha electa and its characteristics . , . . .173
Constitution of myrrh . . ... . . 1 74
Adulteration of myrrh and its detection . . . .175
Opopanax ; Olibanum or frankincense . . . .176
Commercial varieties of olibanum ; Sandarac and its charac-
teristics . . . . . . . . .177
CHAPTER VI.
PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM.
Musk and its varieties ; Musk sacs, illustrated and described 1 78
Characteristics of Tonkin musk 180
Musk of the American musk-rat as a substitute for genuine
musk 181
Other possible substitutes for the musk-deer ; Artificial musk 182
Adulterations of musk and their detection . . . .183
Civet 184
Castor and its varieties . . . . . . .185
Adulterations of castor ; Ambergris . . . . .186
Constituents of ambergris 187
Adulterations of ambergris 188
CHAPTER VII.
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS.
Conversion of oil of turpentine into oil of lemons by Bouch-
ardat and Lafont .189
Cumarin, its occurrence and properties . . . .190
Xll CONTENTS.
PAGE
Varieties of tonka beans found in commerce . . .191
Preparation of cumarin from tonka beans ; Artificial prepa-
ration of cumarin from salicylic acid . . . .192
Synthetical preparation of cumarin ; Heliotropin or pipe-
ronal and its characteristics 193
Preparation of heliotropin . . . . . .194
Vanillin; Characteristics of the vanilla . . . .195
Artificial preparation of vanillin . . . . .196
Characteristics of vanillin . . . . . .197
Adulteration of vanillin, and its detection ; Nitrobenzol . 198
Characteristics of nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane ; adultera-
tion of nitrobenzol and its detection . . . .199
Fruit ethers and their characteristics 200
Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, its preparation and use ;
Acetic ether or ethyl acetate and its preparation . . 201
Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate and its preparation . . 204
Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate ; Preparation of buty-
ric acid ......... 205
Preparation of butyric ether . . . . . .207
St. John's bread or carob as material for the preparation of
butyric ether . ..... .209
Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate and its preparation . 210'
Nitrous ether or ethyl nitrate and its preparation according
to Kopp's method . . " . . . . ' . 211
Preparation and use of nitrous ether in England and America 212
Valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate and its preparation 214
Valerianic ethyl ether ; Apple ether ; Apricot ether ; Cherry
ether ; Pear ether ; Pineapple ether ; Strawberry ether ;
Preparation of fruit essences ; Apple essence ; Apricot
essence .......... 216
Cherry essence ; Currant essence ; Grape essence ; Lemon
essence ; Melon essence ; Orange essence ; Peach essence ;
Pear essence ; Pineapple essence ; Plum essence . .217
Raspberry essence ; Strawberry essence . . . .218
CONTENTS. Xlll
CHAPTER VIIL
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES.
PACK
Division of alcoholic perfumes ; What constitutes the. art
of the perfumer ; Qualities of flower-pomades and their,
designation 219
Storage of flower-pomades ; Extraction of flower-pomades 220
Apparatus for making alcoholic extracts from flower-pom-
ades, illustrated and described . . . . .221
Beyer freres improved apparatus, illustrated and described 223
Tinctures and extracts and their preparation . . . 225
Beyer freres apparatus for the preparation of tinctures, illus-
trated and described . . . . . . .226
Musk tincture ; Civet tincture 228
Ambergris tincture ; Castor tincture ; Benzoin tincture ;
Peru balsam tincture ; Tolu balsam tincture . . . 229
Olibanum tincture ; Opopanax tincture ; Storax tincture ;
Myrrh tincture ; Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture . . 230
Angelica root tincture ; Orris-root tincture ; Musk-root or
sumbul-root tincture ; Tonka-bean tincture . . .231
Cumarin tincture; Heliotropin tincture; Vanilla tincture;
Vanillin tincture . .232
Vitivert tincture ; Juniper-berry tincture; Patchouli extract 233
Tinctures from volatile oils ; Almond-oil (bitter) tincture ;
Balm-oil tincture ; Bergamot-oil tincture ; Canango-oil
tincture 234
Cassia-oil tincture ; Cedar-oil tincture ; Cinnamon-oil tinc-
ture ; Citronella-oil tincture ; Clove-oil tincture ; Eucalyp-
tus-oil tincture ; Geranium-oil tincture ; Lavender-oil
tincture ; Lemon- grass- oil tincture ; Lemon -oil tincture ;
Licari-oil tincture ; Myrrh-oil tincture ; Neroli-oil tinc-
ture ; Opopanax-oil tincture ; Orris-root-oil tincture ;
Patchouli-oil tincture 235
Petit-grain-oil tincture ; Pine-leaf-oil tincture ; Portugal-oil
tincture ; Sandal- wood-oil tincture ; Verbena-oil tincture ;
Vitivert-oil tincture ; Wintergreen-oil tincture ; Ylang-
ylang-oil tincture ; Rose-oil tincture .... 236
XIV CONTENTS.
Extraits aux fleurs ; Extrait acacia ; Extrait cassie ; Extrait
heliotrope; Extrait jacinthe . . . . . .237
Extrait jasmin ; Essence of the odor of linden blossoms ;
Extrait jonquille ; Extrait magnolia ; Extrait muguet
(lily of the valley) ; Extrait fleurs de Mai (May flowers) 238
Extrait ixora ; Extrait orange ; Extrait white rose ; Extrait
rose v. d. centifolie ; Extrait violette ; Coloring substance
for extraits ; Extrait de violette de Panne . . .239
Extrait tubereuse ; Extrait re^da ; Extrait ylang-ylang ;
Compound odors (bouquets) ; Extrait Edelweiss; Extrait
ess-bouquet ......... 240
Extrait spring flower ; Extrait bouquet Eugenie ; Extrait
excelsior; Extrait Frangipani ; Ex trait jockey club . 241
Extrait opopanax ; Extrait patchouli ; Extrait millefleurs ;
Extrait bouquet Victoria . . . . . 242
Extrait kiss-me-quick ; Extrait mogadore ; Extract bouquet
Prince Albert ; Extrait muse ; Extrait new-mown hay ;
Extrait chypre . . ' .243
Extrait mar6chal ; Extrait mousseline ; Extraits triple con-
centres and their preparations ..... 244
Concentrated flower-extract for the preparation of extraits
d'Odeurs; Extraits d'Odeurs, quality II . . . . 245
Extrait violette II ; Extrait rose II ; Extrait reseda II ;
Extrait ylang-ylang II . . . . . . .246
Extrait new-mown hay II ; Extrait chypre II ; Extrait ess-
bouquet II 247
Extrait muguet II; Extrait bouquet Victoria II; Extrait
spring flower II ; Extrait ixora II . . . . 248
Extrait Frangipani II ; Cologne water (eau de Cologne) and
its preparation 249
Durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation of
Cologne water . . . . . . . . 250
Cologne water, quality I . . . . . . .252
Cologne water, quality II ; Cologne water, quality III ;
Cologne water, quality IV; Cologne water, quality V . 253
Maiglb'ekchen eau de Cologne ; Various other receipts for
Cologne water . . . . . . . . 254
CONTENTS. XV
PAGE
Eau de Lavande ; Eau de vie de Lavande double ambree ;
Eau de Lavande double ; Aqua mellis ; Eau de Lisbonne 255
CHAPTER IX.
DRY PERFUMES.
Use of dry perfumes in ancient times ; Sachet powders and
their preparation ........ 256
Sachet a. la rose ; Sachet & la violette ; Heliotrope sachet
powder; Ylang-ylang sachet powder ; Jockey club sachet 257
Sachet aux millefleurs ; Lily of the valley sachet powder ;
Patchouli sachet powder ; Frangipani sachet powder ;
Victoria sachet powder ; Reseda sachet powder . . 258
Musk sachet powder; Ess-bouquet sachet ponder; New-
mown hay sachet powder ; Orange sachet powder ; Solid
perfumes with paraffine ; White rose . ... . 259
Ess-bouquet; Lavender odor; Eau de Cologne; Smelling
salts; Preston salt and " menthol pungent" as prepared
by William W. Bartlett ; White smelling salt . . 260
CHAPTER X.
FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC.
>/
Constitution of fumigating agents ; Object of fumigating ;
Prejudice against fumigating ; Mode of fumigating . . 262
Atomizers ; Objections to dry fumigating agents . . 263
Fumigating essences and vinegars ; Rose-flower fumigating
essence ; Flower fumigating essence heliotrope . . 264
Violet-flower fumigating essence ; Oriental flower fumigating
essence ; Pine odor (for atomizing) ; Juniper odor ; fumi-
gating balsam ........ 265
Fumigating water ; Fumigating vinegar ; Fumigating pow-
ders ; Ordinary fumigating powder . . . .266
Rose fumigating powder ; Violet fumigating powder ; Orange
fumigating powder ; New-mown hay fumigating powder . 267
Fumigating paper ; Fumigating pastilles .... 268
XVI CONTENTS.
Ordinary red fumigating pastilles ; Ordinary black fumigating
pastilles; Musk fumigating pastilles .... 269'
Rose fumigating pastilles ; Violet fumigating pastilles ; Mille-
fleurs fumigating pastilles ; Fumigating lacquer . .270 y
CHAPTER XL
DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC.
Selection of materials for and compounding of dentifrices . 272
Soap as a constituent of dentifrices ; Value of thymol for den-
tifrices ; Object of glycerin in dentifrices . . .273
Tooth and mouth waters ; Thymol tooth-water ; Eau denti-
frice Botot ; Eau dentifrice Orientale . . . .274
Violet mouth- water ; Antiseptic gargle ; Odontine ; Sozo-
dont ; Eau de Botot (improved) 275
Quinine tooth- water ; Dr. StahPs tooth-tincture ; Esprit de
menthe ; Arnica tooth-tincture ; Myrrh tooth-tincture . 276
Tooth-pastes and tooth-powders ; tooth-paste or odontine . 277
Thymol tooth-paste ; Cherry tooth-paste ; Non-fermenting
cherry tooth-paste ; Odontine paste .... 278
Thymol tooth-powder ; Poudre dentifrice ; Violet tooth-
powder 279
Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder ; White tooth-powder ; Black
tooth-powder; Poudre de corail ; Camphor tooth-powder;
Opiat liquide pour les dents ...... 280
Poudre d'Algerine *. . .' . . . . .281
Dr. Hufeland's tooth-soap . . .... 282
Tooth-soap ; Saponaceous tooth-wash . . . . 283
CHAPTER XII.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR
DYES AND DEPILATORIES.
Fats used for the preparation of pomades ; Reputation of
some fats as hair pomades 284
Pomades and their preparation ; Purification of the fat . 285
Substances used for coloring pomades ; Fine French pomades
(flower-pomades) ; Maceration or extraction of the flowers 286
CONTENTS. XV11
PAGE
Receipts for some flower- pomades; Pommade & la rose;
Pommade 1' acacia; Pommade & la fleur d' orange;
Pommade & 1' heliotrope 287
Pomades according to the German method and their prepa-
ration ; Foundations for white pomades . . . 288
Apple pomade; Bear's grease pomade; Quinine po-
mades 289
Quinine pomades (imitation) ; Benzoin pomade ; Densdorf
pomade ; Ice pomades ; Family pomades . . . 290
Strawberry pomade ; Fine hair pomade ; Pomade for pro-
moting the growth of the hair ; Heliotrope pomades . 291
Jasmine pomade ; Emperor pomade ; Macassar pomade ;
Portugal pomade ; Herb pomade ; Lanolin pomade . 292
Oriental pomade ; Paraffin ice pomade ; Neroli pomade ;
Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white) ; Mignonette pomade ;
Castor oil pomades ; Princess pomade . . . .293
Fine pomade ; Beef-marrow pomade ; Rogers' s pomade for
producing a beard ; Rose pomade ; Fine rose pomade ;
Finest rose pomade ; Salicylic pomade ; Victoria pomade ;
Tonka pomade . . . . . . . 294
Fine vanilla pomade ; Vanilla pomade ; Violet pomade ;
Walnut pomade ; Vaseline pomades . . . 295
Foundations for vaseline pomades; Bouquet vaseline po-
made ; Family vaseline pomade ; Lily of the valley vase-
line pomade ; Neroli vaseline pomade .... 296
Mignonette vaseline pomade; Portugal vaseline pomade;
Rose vaseline pomades ; Fine vaseline pomade (yellow) ;
Vaseline pomade (red) ; Vaseline pomade (white) ; Vir-
ginia vaseline pomade ; Victoria vaseline pomade . . 297
Extra fine vaseline pomade; Stick pomades; Foundations
for stick pomades ; Manufacture of stick pomades . .298
Rose-wax pomade ; Black- wax pomade ; Blonde- wax po-
made ; Brown- wax pomade ...... 299
Cheap wax pomades ; Resin pomades ; Hair oils ; Huiles
antiques ; Vaseline oil for hair oils ; Treatment of oils
with benzoin . . . 300
xvin CONTENTS,
PAGE
Preparation of huiles antiques; Huile antique it la rose;
Huile antique au jasmin ; Alpine herb oil ; Flower hair
oil; Peruvian bark hair oil . . . . . .301
Peru hair oil ; Burdock root hair oils ; Macassar hair oils ;
Neroli hair oil ; Mignonette hair oils ; Fine hair oil . 302
Cheap hair oil (red or yellow) ; Portugal hair oil ; Jasmine
hair oil ; Vaseline hair oils ; Vanilla hair oil ; Ylang-
ylang hair oil ; Philocome hair oil . . . . . 303
Sultana hair oil ; Rose hair oil ; Tonka hair oil ; Violet hair
oil ; Victoria hair oil ; Cheap hair oils ; Bandolines and
their preparation . . . . . . . 304
Rose bandoline ; Almond bandoline ; Brilliantine . . 305
Flower brilliantine No. 1 ; Brilliantine No. 2 . . 306
Brilliantine No. 3 ; Various formulas for brilliantine . .307
Hair tonics ; Eau Athenienne ; Florida water . , . 308
Eau de Cologne hair tonic ; Eau de quinine . . . 309
Eau de quinine (imitation) ; Honey water ; Glycerin hair
tonic; Eau lustral (hair restorative) ; Tea hair tonic . 310
Locoek's lotion for the hair; Shampoo lotion; Shampoo
liquid . . ... . , . . .311
Dandruff' cures ; Dandruff lotion ; Bay rum .-. , . 312
Directions for preparing bay rum . r . . : . 313
Hair dyes; Requirements of a good hair dye; Gradual
darkening of the hair ; Use of dilute acids for making the
hair lighter 314
Use of lead salts, nitrate of silver, and copper salts for dye-
ing the hair 315
Iron salts for dying the hair ; Rastikopetra, a Turkish hair
dye ; Use of potassium permanganate and pyrogallic acid
for dyeing the hair . . . . . . .316
Kohol, an Egyptian hair dye ; The use of henna as a hair
dye; Process of coloring hair, dyed red with henna, black 317
Use of the juice of green walnut shells for coloring the hair;
Bleaching the hair with peroxide of hydrogen ; Formulae
for hair dyes . . . . . . . .318
Single hair dyes ; Teinture Orientale (Karsi) ; Teinture
Chinoise (Kohol) 319
CONTENTS. XIX
PAGK
Potassium permanganate hair dye; Bismuth hair dye; Wal-
nut hair dye ; Pyrogallic hair stain .... 320
Double hair dyes; For dyeing brown; For dyeing black;
Tannin hair dye 321
Melanogfene ; Eau d'Afrique; Krinochrom ; Copper hair
dye; Depilatories; Rhusma ...... 322
Boettger's depilatory ; Bartholow's depilatory . . .323
CHAPTER XIII.
COSMETICS.
Skin cosmetics; Toilet vinegars; Vinaigre de Bully ; Vin-
aigre de toilette a la rose ; Vinaigre de toilette & la vio-
lette 324
Vinaigre de toilette heliotrope ; Vinaigre de toilette orange ;
Vinaigre de toilette ; Aromatic vinegar; English aromatic
vinegar . . . . . . . . .325
Toilet vinegar; Washes; Virginal milk (Lait virginal);
Rose milk (Lait de rose) 326
Almond milk (Lait d'amandes ameres) .... 327
Lily milk (Lait de lys) ; Perfumed glycerin with rose odor ;
Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor; Perfumed meals and
pastes; Farm de noisette (nut meal) .... 328
Farin d'amandes ameres (almond meal) ; Pate d'amandes
au miel (honey almond paste) ; Poudre de riz & la rose . 329
Poudre de riz heliotrope ; Poudre de riz orange ; Poudre de
riz muguet ......... 330
Poudre de riz ixora; Poudre de riz bouquet; Cold creams
and lip salves ; Cold cream ; Vaseline cold cream . .331
Glycerin cream ; CrSme de concombre ; Glycerin gelee ;
Glycerin jelly 332
Cream of roses ; Boroglycerin cream ; Recamier cream ;
Preparations for chapped hands . . . . .333
Wash for the hands ; Nail powder; Lip-salves . . . 334
Paints; Pulverulent paints (powders); u Blanc fard" or
" Blanc francais" 335
XX CONTENTS.
PAGE
Mixtures for powders ; Coloring substances for powders ;
Powder for coloring intensely red ; Solid paints ; Ordi-
nary red paint (rouge) . . . . . . . 336
Fine red paint (rouge) ; White paint ; Preparation of paints 337
Red stick-paint (stick rouge) ; Moulding the rouge into sticks 339
White stick-paint ; Rouge en feuilles ; Liquid paints ; Liquid
rouge 340
White liquid paint ; Fat paints 341
Cr@me de Lys ; CrSme de rose . . .. ; . . 342
INDEX 343
UNIVERSITY
A PRACTICAL TREATISE
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY,
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY.
NATURE has implanted in man the instinct of finding
the odor accompanying decay and putrefaction insuffer-
able, of fleeing from it, and of going in quest of fragrant
odors. Hence, in ancient times, perfume substances
were highly esteemed, and an offering of them was
considered a sign of the most profound reverence and
homage. The early nations of the Orient especially
used perfume substances in such profusion that the con-
sumption of them by the finest lady of to-day must be
called a comparatively moderate one. This may, how-
ever, be readily explained, for, on the one hand, the
majority of plants which produce the most agreeable
perfumes in larger quantity are indigenous to the
Orient ; and, on the other, the excessive exhalations
from the human body, caused by the hot climate, forced
the people to search for means to remove, or at least to
cover, the disagreeable odor arising therefrom.
ce fragrant odors were agreeable to human beings,
2
18 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
it was believed that they must be welcome also to the
gods, and, to honor them, per fume substances were turned
upon the altars. Besides, as an offering to the gods, per-
fume substances were extensively used by many nations,
especially by the Egyptians, for embalming the dead, the
process employed by the latter having been transmitted
io us by the ancient authors Herodotus and Diodorus.
Furthermore, a desire for ornamentation and to give
to the face and body as pleasing an appearance as pos-
sible, is common to all mankind. To be sure, the ideas
of what constitutes beauty in this respect have varied
at different times and among the various nations. But,
independent of the savage races, who consider painting
and tattooing the body and face an embellishment,
and taking into consideration only the earliest civilized
nations, it is astonishing how many arts of the toilet
have been preserved from the most ancient historical
times up to the present. " In the most ancient histori-
cal times, people perfumed and painted, frizzed, curled,
and dyed the hair as at present, and, in fact, the same
cosmetics, only slightly augmented, which were in use
hundreds, nay, thousands, of years ago are still employed
to-day."* It is especially woman, who everywhere exer-
cises the arts of the toilet, while, with the exception of
perfumes and agents for the hair, man is but seldom
referred to as making use of cosmetics. The young
girls of ancient Egypt used red and white paints, colored
their pale lips, and anointed their hair with sweet-
scented oils ; they dyed their eyelashes and eyelids black
to impart a brighter lustre to the glance of the eye, and
* Paschkis, Kosmetik fur Aerzte. Wien, 1890.
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 19
the mother of the wife of the first king of Egypt is said
to have already composed a receipt for a hair-dye.
4^From the Egyptians, the practices of the toilet, like
many other things, were transmitted to the Jews. In
Egypt, the Hebrew woman had known the sweet-scented
flower of the henna bush, and, finding it also in Judea, it
served her as a perfume. In the Bible the henna flower
is called kopher, in Greek kypros, and the Cyprian salve,
mentioned by Pliny, was prepared by boiling henna
flowers in oil and then expressing them.
Painting the face was also practised by the Hebrew
women, reference being made to it in II. Kings ix. 30,
and Jeremiah v. 30, while painting of the eyes is men-
tioned in Ezekiel xxiii. 40.
/The number of perfume substances known to the
ancient Hebrews was but a limited one, they consisting,
besides the above-mentioned henna flower, chiefly of a
few gum-resins, especially bdellium, olibanum and
myrrh.
""In ancient times olibanum was, without doubt, the
most important perfume-substance. It was introduced
into commerce by the Phenicians, and, like many other
substances, it received from them its name, which was
adopted by other nations. Thus, the Hebrews called
the tree lebonah, the Arabs, lubah, while the Greeks
named it, Mj3ai>6$, and the resin derived from it, the cele-
brated frankincense of the ancients, iipavot oj, Latin, oli-
banum. Regarding the mode of gaining the olibanum,
some curious ideas prevailed in ancient times. Thus,
Herodotus writes : " Arabia is the only country in which
olibanum grows, as well as myrrh, cassia, cinnamon and
lederum. With the exception of myrrh, the Arabs
20 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
encounter many difficulties in procuring these products.
Olibanum they obtain by burning styrax, for every oli-
banum tree is guarded by a number of small-sized
winged serpents of a variegated appearance, which can
be driven away by nothing but styrax vapors." Accord-
ing to Pliny, who gives a very full account of olibanum,
Arabia felix received its by-name from the abundance of
olibanum and myrrh found there. He states that oli-
banum grows in no other country besides Arabia, but it
is not found in every part of it. About in the centre,
upon a high mountain, he continues, is the country of
the Atramites, a province of the Sabeans, from which the
olibanum region is distant about eight days' journey.
It is called Saba and is everywhere rendered inaccessible
by mountains, a narrow defile, through which the export
is carried on, leading into an adjoining province inhabited
by the Mineans. In Saba itself were not more than
300 families, called the saints, who claimed the cultiva-
tion of olibanum as a right of heritage. When making
the incisions in the trees, and while gathering the oliba-
num, the men were prohibited from having intercourse
with women and from attending funerals. Notwithstand-
ing the fact that the Romans carried on war in Arabia,
none of them had ever seen an olibanum tree. When
there was less chance of selling the olibanum. it was
gathered but once in the year, but since the increase in
the demand, it was gathered twice, first in the fall and
again in the spring, the incisions in the trees having been
made during the winter. The collected olibanum was
brought upon camels to Sabota, where one gate was open
for its reception ; to turn from the road was prohibited
under penalty of death. The priests took one-tenth by
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 21
measure for the god Sabin, sales not being allowed until
their claim was satisfied. The olibanum could be. ex-
ported only through the territory of the Gebanites, whose
King also levied tribute.
Pliny further states that the Arabs did not steal one
from another, but for fear of loss those employed in the
stores of Alexandria were forced to go naked with the
exception of a clout which was sealed. A mask and a
thick net were thrown over the head.
To us the practice of anointing the entire body, cus-
tomary among the ancients, appears very singular. Old
Egyptian sculptures represent the guests being anointed
at the meal. Among the Jews we find a holy oil with
which Aaron and his sons were anointed to consecrate
them to the priesthood, Moses prescribing for this holy
anointing oil, myrrh, cinnamon, calamus, and oil from
the olive tree. Other persons were prohibited from
imitating or using this holy oil. The anointing of
kings was introduced later on. Though it was pro-
hibited to imitate and use the holy oil, this prohibition
did not refer to anointing with oil in general.
That the Greeks also set a high value upon anointing
with oil is plainly seen from Homer. When Telem-
achus visited Nestor, Polycaste, Nestor's youngest
daughter, bathed him and anointed him with oil, and
when he was the guest of Menelaus, the maids of the
latter performed the same service for him, while for
Ulysses returning as a beggar, the aged Euryclea pre-
pared a foot-bath and anointed him.
By the addition of fragrant substances to the oil,
the sweet-scented ointment, myron, originated. While
the anointing with simple oil evidently served as
22 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
a hygienic measure after the bath, and especially for
men in the gymnasium, and before a combat, with the
Greeks, ointments were an article of luxury. In
Socrates 7 time the use of sweet-scented ointments had
reached such an extent, that Xenophon caused him to
speak against it, but, as is the case with all such lectures
against fashion, without the slightest success. In
Athens the luxury was carried so far that the bacchana-
lians anointed each part of their body with a special
ointment. The oil extracted from the palm was
thought best adapted to the cheeks and the breasts ; the
arms were refreshed with balsam-mint ; sweet marjoram
supplied an oil for the hair and eyebrows ; and wild
thyme for the knee and neck. Although to us it would
be repugnant to have the entire body anointed, in
s it was considered beautiful to be glossy with
ointments. It is said of Demetrius Phalereus, that in
order to appear more captivating, he dyed his hair
yellow, and anointed the face and the rest of his body.
From the Asiatics and Greeks the Romans also
learned the use of ointments. Pliny cannot say at
what time they were introduced in Rome, but states
that after the conquest of Asia and the defeat of the
King, Antiochus, in the year 565, after the building of
Rome, the censors issued an edict prohibiting the sale of
foreign ointments. However, this edict was of no use,
and the practice spread more and more, Pliny speaking
very bitterly about it. Regarding this extravagance in
ointments, Plutarch says : " Frankincense, cinnamon,
spikenard, and Arabian calamus are mixed together
with the most careful art and sold for large sums. It
is an effeminate pleasure and has spoiled not only the
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 23
women but also the men, who will not sleep even with
their own wives if they do not smell of ointments and
powders." Plutarch further mentions an incident which
must have created a sensation even in luxurious Rome,
as otherwise it would scarcely have been chronicled for
the benefit of posterity. Nero one day anointed him-
self with costly ointments and scattered some of them
over Otho. The next day Otho gave Nero a banquet,
and laid in all directions gold and silver tubes, which
poured forth expensive ointments like water, thoroughly
saturating the guests.
Directions for preparing ointments are contained in
Theophrastus's work " On Perfumes," in Dioscorides's
" Medica materia," and Pliny's " Historia naturalis."
Dioscorides's receipts are the fullest. According to Pliny,
a distinction was made between the juice and the body,
the latter consisting of the fat oils and the former of the
sweet-scented substances. In preparing the ointments,
the oil together with the perfuming substances were
heated in the water-bath. For instance, rose ointment
was, according to Dioscorides, prepared by mixing
5J Ibs. of bruised Andropogon Schoenanthus with a little
water, then adding 20J Ibs. of oil and heating. After
heating the oil was filtered off, and the petals of one
thousand roses were thrown into the oil, the hands with
which the rose leaves were pressed into the oil being
previously coated with honey. When the whole had
stood for one night, the oil was strained off and when
all impurities had settled, it was brought into another
vessel and fresh rose leaves introduced, the operation
being several times repeated. However, according to
the opinion of the ancient ointment makers, no more
24 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
odor was absorbed by the oil after the seventh introduc-
tion of rose leaves. To fix the odor, resins or gums
were added to the ointments.
A,, process of distilling volatile oils was also known,
the odoriferous matter being caught by spreading wool
over the heated perfume-substances. The wool was
afterwards subjected to pressure. This process, of
course, involved great loss^and was available only for
substances containing much volatile oil.
Dioscorides also gives directions for making animal fats
suitable for the reception of perfumes. Beef-tallow, deer-
fat, or the marrow of animals was freed from all mem-
branes, melted together with a little salt in an entirely
new vessel, and then poured into clean water, where it
was washed by rubbing with the hands, the water being
frequently renewed. Then it was boiled with equal
parts of sweet-scented wine, and after taking it from
the fire it was allowed to stand over night. The next
day the cold fat was again boiled in a new vessel, with
sweet-scented wine, this operation being repeated until
the fat had lost every trace of disagreeable odor, when
it was brought in contact with the perfumes.
The consumption of perfume-substances by the an-
cient Romans must have been enormous. The trade of
the ointment makers (ungenlarii) was so extensive that
the large street Seplasia in old Capua was entirely
taken up by it, and the business must have paid well
since the prices realized were very high. ^ However, in
ancient times the business cannot have been very agree-
able, at least not in Greece, as shown by a passage in
Plutarch's Life of Pericles : " We take pleasure in
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 25
ointments and purple, but consider the dyers and oint-
ment makers bondsmen and mechanics."
Red and white paints, in the form of powder as well
as of paste, were extensively used by the Roman ladies.
Chalk and white lead served for white paint, and
minium and carmine for red. Lovers preferred white
paints, a pale color being more becoming to them :
" Palleat omnis amans ; hie est
color aptus amaiati." (Ovid.)
For black paints for the eyebrows roasted ant eggs ^
or soot were used.
The Roman ladies paid as much attention to their
natural, and also false, hair as the fair ones of to-day.
They curled their hair with heated iron instruments,
and perfumed them with fragrant oil. If from age,
sorrow, or other reasons, the hair was no longer black,
it was dyed, and it seems that a considerable number of
hair-dyes were known in Rome, amongst them some
which are still employed to-day, such as green nut-
shells and acetate of lead.
^Vfter the Romans had seen the blonde German
maidens, blonde and red hair became the fashion. To
dye the hair blonde sharp alkaline soaps were chiefly
used. However, this or some other hair-dye seems to
have been very injurious, as it caused the hair to come
out. The satirists ridiculed this as well as the wigs,
which were worn by men and women to hide baldness,
or on account of the color which could not be attained
by dyes.
Depilatories were also known to the Romans, the
agents employed being called psilothrum and dropax.
26 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
They were of vegetable origin, but it is not exactly
known from which plants they were derived.
For cleaning the teeth the Roman ladies used a den-
tifrice which does not seem very inviting to us. It con-
sisted of a urine imported from Spain (dens hiberna
defricatus urina). To perfume the breath or to hide its
bad odor, mouth-washes, perfumed with saffron, roses,
etc., were used, or myrrh, "mastic from Chios or per-
fumed pastilles were chewed.
We know but little regarding the use of perfumeries
and cosmetics in the Middle Ages. In the wars during
the migrations of the nations, but little thought was
very likely given to them, but as soon as the nations
became again settled and made sufficient progress in
culture, the taste for perfumes and other pleasures of
life no doubt returned. Our knowledge in this respect
is limited to what is contained in the works of physi-
cians of the first centuries. Later on we find receipts
for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians,
such as Rhazes (end of the 9th to the commencement of
the 10th century), Avicenna (end of the 10th to the
commencement of the llth century), and Mesue (llth
century). To the llth century also belong the works
of the celebrated Trotula, " De mulierum passionibus"
" Practica Trotulae mulieris Salernitanae de cur is mulie-
rum" and " Trotula in utilitatem mulierum" all of which
contain receipts for cosmetics. In the 14th century the
most celebrated surgeon of the Middle Ages, Guy de
Chanlios, did not consider it beneath his dignity to de-
vote a section of his " Grande Chirurgie" to cosmestics.
\ However, it was only in the 16th century that perfumes
J and cosmetics came again into prominent notice in Italy,
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 27
which at that time was the country of luxury and art.
Giovanni Marinello,* a physician, in 1562 wrote a
work on "Cosmetics for Ladies," which he dedicated
to the ladies Victoria and Isabella Palavicini. In the
preface the author expresses the opinion that it is only
right and pleasing to God to place the gifts bestowed by
him in a proper light and to heighten them. He then
proceeds to give perfumes foT various purposes, aromatic
baths to keep the skin young and fresh, means for in-
creasing the stoutness of the entire body and of separate
limbs, and others for reducing them. He further recom-
mends certain remedies for making large eyes small,
and small ones large. The chapter on the hair is very
fully treated. To prevent the hair from coming out,
rubbing with oil, and then washing with sorrel and
myrobalan is recommended. For promoting the growth
of the hair, the use of dried frogs, lizards, etc., rubbed
to a powder, is prescribed. Means for making the hair
long and soft and curly are also given, and others
recommended for eyebrows and eyelashes. As depila-
tories lime and orpiment are prescribed. Paints are also
classed among general cosmetics. Their use became at
this time more and more fashionable, and not only the
face, but also the breast and neck were painted. ^
Catherine of Medici and Margaret of Valois intro-
duced these arts of the toilet into France. That coun-
try soon became the leader in this respect, and for many
years the greatest luxury in perfumes and cosmetics
prevailed there. The golden age for these articles lasted
* Grli ornament! delle donne, tratti dalle seriture d'una Reina
greca, par M. Giovanni Marinello in Venetia.
28 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
from the commencement of the seventeenth to the mid-
dle of the eighteenth century, during which time the
mouche or beauty patch also flourished. " There were at
that time hundreds of pastes, essences, cosmetics, a white
-balsam, a water to make the face red, another to make a
coarse complexion delicate, one to preserve the fine com-
, plexion of lean persons and again one to make the face
like that of a twenty-year old girl, an Eau pour nourir
et laver les teints corrodes and Eau de chair admirable
pour teints jaunes et bilieux, etc. Then there were Mou*-
choirs de Venus, further bands impregnated with wax
to cleanse and smooth the forehead ; gold leaf was even
heated in a lemon over a fire in order to obtain a means
which should impart to the face a supernatural bright-
ness. For the hair, teeth and nails there were innu-
merable receipts, ointments, etc. However, of special
importance were the paints, chemical white, blue for the
veins, but, chief of all, the red or rouge, mineral, vege-
table, or cochineal. The application of rouge was at
that time no small affair, it was not only to be rouged,
but the rouge had also to express something Le grand
point est d'avoir un rouge qui dise quelque chose. The
rouge had to characterize its wearer ; a lady of rank did
not wear the rouge like a lady of the court, and the rouge
of the wife of the bourgeois was not like either of them
nor like that of the courtesan. At court a more intense
rouge was worn, the intensity of which was still in-
creased on the day of presentation, it being then Rouge
d J Espagne and Rouge de Portugal en tasse. It may
seem incredible, but for eight days a violet paint was
used and then for a change Rouge de Serkis. Ladies,
when retiring for the night applied a light rouge (un
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. 29
demi rouge), and even small girls wore rouge, such being
the decree of fashion. The ladies dyed their eyebrows
and eyelashes, and powdered their hair, both natural
and false, for, about 1750, they commenced wearing
wigs and chignons. Powdering was done partially for
the purpose of dying the hair after dressing, and par-
tially for decoration ; white, gray, red and fiery red
ponders were in vogue."
To that time fashion also ordained an ever-varying
routine in the employment of perfumes ; so that the
royal apartments were one day fragrant with the scent of
the tuberose and the next with that of amber and cloves ;
and so on consecutively, each succeeding day bringing a
change of the reigning odor. In that luxurious age the
personal use of perfumes was not confined to the fair
sex, but the effeminate gallants of the day gloried in
perfuming themselves with the favorite scents of their
mistresses or of prominent belles ; so that the allegiance
was recognized, not as in more chivalrous times by the
knight wearing the colors of the fair one who had en-
slaved him, but by his smelling of the particular odor
which she had consecrated to herself.
Philip Augustus, in 1190, granted a charter to the
French perfumers, who had formed a guild. This
charter was, in 1357, confirmed by John, and in 1582
by Henry III., and remained in force until 1636. The
importance of the craft in France is shown by the fact
that under Colbert the perfumers or " parfumeurs-gan-
tiers" as they were called, were granted patents which
were registered in Parliament. In the seventeenth cen-
tury Montpellier was the chief seat of the French per-
fumery industry ; to-day it is Paris, and over fifty
.30 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
millions of francs 7 worth of perfumery are annually sold
there. The parfumeurs-gantiers had the privilege of
selling gloves of all possible kinds of material, as well
as the leather required for them ; they had the further
privilege of perfuming gloves and selling all kinds of
perfumes. Perfumed leather for gloves, purses, etc.,
was at that time imported from Spain. This leather
was very expensive and fashionable, but on account
of its penetrating odor its use for gloves was finally
abandoned.
In England perfumes were not in general use before
the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when they soon became
fashionable. Elizabeth had an especially finely devel-
oped sense of smell and nothing was more repugnant to
her than a disagreeable odor. She had a cloak of per-
fumed Spanish leather, and even her shoes w r ere per-
fumed. Perfumed gloves were also fashionable. The
city soon imitated the practices of the court, and that an
extravagant use was made of perfumeries and cosmetics is
plainly seen from the works of the authors of that time,
as well as from an act of Parliament passed in 1770.
By the latter it is ordained that any woman, no matter
of what age or rank, be she maid or widow, who de-
ceives a man and inveigles him into matrimony by the
use of perfumeries, false hair, Crepons d'Espagne (a
paint), corsets, hooped petticoats, shoes with high heels,
and false hips, shall suffer the penalty of the law for
procuring, and the marriage shall be null and void.
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 31
CHAPTER II.
THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE
OF PERFUMERY.
MOST of the perfume-materials employed by the per-
fumer are derived from the vegetable kingdom ; a few
are of animal origin, whilst some are artificially pre-
pared.
Of animal substances only four are used, namely :
musk y castor or castoreum, civet, and ambergris; the
separation of their characteristic odoriferous substances
has, however, not yet been accomplished. The odor of
plants is generally due to volatile substances called
volatile or essential oils. Their occurrence is not limited
to special parts, they being found in the flower, seed,
wood, bast, bark, leaves, and root. However, in every
plant the oil occurs chiefly in certain organs, and it
even happens that the oil differs with the part of the
plant whence it is derived. The odors exist already
formed in the living plant, or else are generated, as in
the instance of bitter almonds, by some reaction be-
tween the elements which takes place during fermenta-
tion or distillation.
From the strength of the odor of a plant no conclu-
sion can be drawn as to the quantity of volatile oil
present. If this were the case, the hyacinth, for in-
stance, would contain more oil than the coniferae, whilst
32 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
in fact it contains so little that it can be separated only
with the greatest difficulty. The odor does not depend
on the quantity, but on the quality of the oil ; a plant
may diffuse but little odor and still contain much vola-
tile oil. Of the various families of plants, the labiatae,
umbelliferae, and coniferae are richest in volatile oils.
In every climate plants diffuse odor, those growing in
tropical latitudes being more prolific in this respect than
the plants of colder regions, which, however, yield the
most delicate perfume. Although the East Indies,
Ceylon, Peru, and Mexico afford some of the choicest
perfumes, Central Europe is the actual flower garden
of the perfumer, Grasse, Cannes, and Nice being the
principal places for the production of perfume-materials.
Thanks to the geographical position of these places, the
cultivator, within a comparatively narrow space, has at
his disposal various climates suitable for the most perfect
development of the plants. The Acacia Farnesiana
grows on the seashore, without having to fear frost,
which in one night might destroy the entire crop, while
at the foot of the Alps, on Mount Esteral, the violet
diffuses a much sweeter odor than in the hotter regions,
where the olive and the tuberose reach perfect bloom.
England asserts its superiority in oils of lavender and
peppermint. The volatile oils obtained from plants
cultivated in Miteham and Hitchin command a con-
siderably higher price than those from other localities,
this preference being justified only by the delicacy of
their perfume. Cannes is best suited for roses, acacias,
jasmine, and neroli, while in Nimes, thyme, rosemary,
and lavender are chiefly cultivated. Nice is celebrated
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 33
for its violets, while Sicily furnishes the lemon and
orange, and Italy the iris and bergamotte.
The odors exhaled by our own domestic plants
have been but little studied, but the southern as well
as many northern districts of the United States are
well adapted for the cultivation of quite a number of
species of plants which might be made to yield highly
valuable articles of commerce. Among the plants which
might furnish oils for the perfumer's use are, for instance,
the wall flower, the lil,ly, lilac and mignonette.
VOLATILE OILS. The volatile oils are either fluid
(actual volatile oils) or solid (varieties of camphor) or
solutions of solid combinations in fluid. The latter, on
exposure to low temperatures, separate into two portions,
one solid, called stearoptene, and the other liquid, called
elceoptene. The boiling point of the volatile oils is con-
siderably higher than that of water, but when heated
with water they pass over with the vapors. Upon
paper, fluid volatile oils produce grease spots, which
differ, however, from those caused by fat oils in that
they gradually disappear at an ordinary temperature,
and rapidly by gentle heating. Most volatile oils are
insoluble, or only with difficulty and sparingly soluble,
in water, but they impart to the latter their odor and
taste. They are readily soluble in alcohol, ether, chlo-
roform, bisulphide of carbon and petroleum-ether, and
miscible in every proportion with fats and fat oils. By
their solubility in alcohol they differ from most fat oils.
When freshly prepared many volatile oils are colorless,
but soon turn yellow ; some, however, show a distinct
color even when fresh. They ignite with greater ease
than fat oils and burn with a fierce smoky flame deposit-
3
34 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
ing a large amount of carbon. They exhibit a great
tendency to absorb oxygen from the air and to gum, the
influence of light promoting the process. In specific
gravity they range from about 0.75 to 1.1 7, most of them
being specifically lighter than water. Most bodies,
under otherwise equal conditions, show always exactly
the same specific gravity, the variations being so slight
that they may be justly ascribed to errors of observation.
However, one and the same volatile oil frequently shows
such variations in specific gravity, that we are forced to
ascribe this phenomenon to alterations in the constitution
of the oil itself. For the exact determination of the
specific gravity of a volatile oil, it should, therefore, be
subjected to examination immediately after its prepara-
tion from the plant or vegetable substance, which should
be as fresh as possible. The influence of light upon
volatile oils is best shown by the following interesting
experiment : If certain volatile oils are distilled in a
vacuum or over burnt lime in a current of carbonic acid,
it is no longer possible to distinguish, for instance, oil of
lemon from oil of turpentine ; however, by again expo-
sing the oils to the air, they reacquire their characteristic
odor.
According to their elementary composition the vola-
tile oils may be divided into three principal divisions :
1. Volatile oils free from oxygen, terpene (camphene),
or hydrocarbons.
2. Oxygenated volatile oils.
3. Volatile oils containing sulphur.
On account of the facility with which most of the
volatile oils absorb oxygen, oils originally free from
oxygen are frequently a mixture of hydrocarbons and
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 35
combinations containing oxygen. The volatile oils
varying so much in their physical as well as their
chemical properties, a suitable classification of them has
thus far been unsuccessful.
Most of the volatile oils contain a liquid hydro-
carbon, terpene, which is characterized neither by special
taste nor odor, nor is the peculiarity of a volatile oil de-
pendent on it. In the direct distillation of a volatile
oil, for instance, lemon oil, this hydrocarbon (citrene),
passes first over and can, therefore, be readily separated
from the constituents on which depend the peculiarity of
lemon oil, and which distil over at a higher tempera-
ture. The specific character of an oil is generally due
to the portion of the oil containing oxygen. Hence,
manufacturers have endeavored to free several of the
volatile oils, used for perfumery and the preparation of
food, from the worthless terpene and at the same time
to obtain them in a concentrated form. Carvol is, for
instance, caraway oil freed from carvene (terpene).
These concentrated oils are not only purer and more
agreeable in odor and taste and more readily soluble in
dilute alcohol, but, being more concentrated, an equal
volume of them goes much further than ordinary vola-
tile oil. In the price lists these oils are designated as
extra strong, patented, concentrated, highly concentrated
oils or essences.
All the terpenes occurring in the various oils are
combinations having the formula C l0 H l6 ,or polymeric
with it, C, 5 H 24 ,C 20 H 32 , etc. These terpenes exhibiting
certain deviations in regard to their properties, odor,
specific gravity, and boiling points, nearly as many ter-
penes as there are volatile oils have been distinguished.
It is, however, very likely that these deviations may be
36 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
traced back to fortuitous circumstances, for example, to
the admixture of foreign substances occurring together
with the terpenes, and that, by a more accurate examina-
tion, the number of terpenes entitled to be considered
pure chemical combinations will be considerably reduced.
By Wallach's labors, the identity of several terpenes
formerly considered distinct, has already been estab-
lished, whilst many others have been found to possess
properties in common.
According to the nature and quantity of the odorifer-
ous substances contained in the plants, various methods,
namely, expression, distillation, extraction, maceration,
and absorption, are employed for the purpose of obtain-
ing them.
Expression. This is only practicable when the sub-
stances are especially rich in oil and of sufficient softness,
as in the case with the peel of the orange, citron, lemon,
etc. In such instances the material is simply placed
in a linen cloth and subjected to a strong pressure until
it ceases to yield oil. The press may be of any size
according to the quantity to be expressed. For small
quantities it generally consists of an iron vessel, having
a small opening at the bottom so that the oil may flow
out. The material is placed upon a perforated bottom
inside of the vessel and covered with a well-fitting iron
plate, that can be pressed down by means of a screw.
Though the material is fairly exhausted by such a press,
for large operations it is advisable to make use of a
hydraulic press, which is constructed and managed in
exactly the same manner as those used for the expression
of fixed oils.
By expression a turbid milky fluid is obtained, which
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 37
consists of the volatile oil and aqueous substances. The
latter are a solution of various extractive substances and
salts in water. This fluid, as it runs from the press, is
received in tall, narrow, glass vessels and brought into a
cool place for clarification. This frequently requires
several >days, three distinct layers being generally dis-
tinguished. On the bottom is a mucous layer consisting
of cell substances carried along by the liquid bodies.
Over this is a clear fluid consisting of a solution of ex-
tractive substances, vegetable albumen, and salts, and
upon this floats the volatile oil, being specifically the
lightest body, which, by its greater refractive power, can
be clearly distinguished from the aqueous fluid.
The oil is separated by bringing all that has been
expressed into a bottle provided near the bottom with a
lateral neck closed by a cock. After separating the oil
from the aqueous fluid, the latter is allowed to escape
by opening the cock.
The oil obtained in this manner is still impure, and
requires further treatment to remove small vegetable
fibres, invisible to the naked eye, which float in them,
and cause them to be somewhat opaque and slightly
opalescent. By their subsequent decomposition they
would also give the oil a disagreeable odor.
There are two methods of obtaining the oil entirely
clear, viz., filtration and distillation. Filtration is the
cheaper process, but requires special precautions to ex-
clude the air as much as possible to prevent the oil from
undergoing injurious changes. By arranging the filter-
ing apparatus so that the oil always comes in contact with
only the same quantity of air, the injurious action of
the oxygen is reduced to a minimum. It is self-evi-
38
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
dent that the apparatus should not be placed in the
sun, but in a semi-dark, cool place.
A filter of simple construction, and performing excel-
lent service, is shown in Fig. 1. It consists of a large
glass bottle, F, hermetically closed by a doubly-per-
forated cork. The neck of the glass funnel T, the
upper rim of which is ground smooth, is placed in one
FIG. 1.
,
of the holes, and a glass tube, r, bent at a right angle,
is fitted into the second hole. A thick wooden lid, with
a rubber ring on the lower side, is placed upon the
funnel, thus closing it air-tight. In the centre of the
lid is fitted a glass tube, r', also bent at a right angle,
which is connected with the tube r, by a rubber hose, L
After the funnel has been provided with filtering paper
and the oil to be filtered, the lid is placed upon it, and
must not be removed, except for the purpose of pouring
more oil into the funnel. The air in the bottle F is
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 39
displaced by the oil dropping into it, and escapes
through r, k and r r into the funnel, and thus only the
air in the bottle and funnel can act upon the oil.
The other method for the complete purification of
expressed oil is by rectification or distillation with
water. For this purpose the oil, together with a little
water, is brought into one of the stills described later
on, and the oil distilled over. It is sometimes difficult
to obtain the last portion of the oil, especially with a
still heated by direct fire, and it is therefore preferable
to combine it with a fresh quantity of the same oil to
be distilled.
Distillation. There are at present two methods in
use. The one is founded upon the direct action of
the heat, the other upon the use of steam. The
first was formerly in general practice, and is still
largely employed in France and England, and to a
limited extent in this country. It is, however, very
deficient in many respects. As the stills must necessa-
rily be of small capacity, only small quantities can be
distilled at one time, and the oils very rarely possess
the peculiar odor due to them, and sometimes the odor
is even altered. In mixing too little water with the
materials to be extracted,' the re is danger that empyreu-
matic oils will be formed ; a large quantity of water, on
the other hand, is of disadvantage, in so far as in case
the perfume-materials contain little oil, only a perfumed
water, but no oil, will be obtained. In order to avoid
these inconveniences, or, at least, to do away with some
of them, another plan was devised. The materials to
be distilled were spread upon sieves, which were sus-
pended in the upper part of a still, so that they might
40
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
be penetrated from below. It is true no scorching is
possible in this case, as was in the other process when
the heating was continued after all the water had evap-
orated, and the oil retains its proper color, but by this
method only small quantities can be extracted at a time.
The still generally used for distillation with direct heat
resembles so much an ordinary whiskey still as to need
no further description here.
For the accurate determination of the percentage of
volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield, or to obtain
the oil from very costly raw materials, the small glass
apparatus, Fig. 2, is used. The flask A, with a capa-
FIG. 2.
city of up to 5 or 6 quarts, serves for a still. In the
tube tj shaped like the neck of a bottle, is inserted by
means of a cork, a funnel tube, I, reaching to the bottom
of the flask. The neck of the flask passes into the
cooling pipe, which lies in a so-called Liebig cooler.
This consists of a wide-glass tube, (7, into the lower end
of which, at h y flows cold water from the reservoir Z),
displacing the heated water at g. The lower end of the
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 41
cooling pipe is connected with the neck-shaped tube r,
under which stands the vessel for the reception of the
distillate. To prevent the cracking of the flask, which
might readily happen with the use of direct heat, it is
placed in a vessel filled with sand or water.
A very good small apparatus for the distillation of
volatile oil is shown in Fig. 3. It is known as a siphon
still. It consists of a double-walled boiler, surmounted
by a still-head, which is provided with a mechanism for
keeping the contents of the boiler in motion. This
stirring apparatus consists of a perpendicular shaft, bear-
FIG. 3.
ing a frame work of iron, curved so as to correspond to
the interior shape of the still, and on the outside carrying
a chain which scrapes over the inner surface of the still
while the stirrer is being turned. This may be done
42 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
either by hand or by steam. The still having been
charged with the material to be extracted, is filled up
with water to within a few inches of the top of the body
of the still, and the latter is heated by admitting steam.
The vapors arising are conducted to a cooler situated at
a higher level than the still itself, and the condensed
liquid is collected in a receiver, where the oil and water
separate. This receiver is provided with two faucets,
one near the top and the other near the bottom. If the
oil passing over is heavier than water, the excess of the
latter is removed by the upper faucet ; if the oil swirns
on the water, the lower faucet is regulated so as to
allow the water to escape in about the same ratio as it
enters the receiver. In either case the condensed water
is made to run back into the still, and the loss of oil
is, therefore, greatly reduced.
Sometimes a single-walled still is used, and distilla-
tion carried on with direct steam. This method is,
however, not suitable where the presence of water is
necessary, for instance, in the production of oil of bitter
almonds.
A simple way of converting an ordinary still into
use with steam is shown in Fig. 4. For the helmet of
the still A is substituted a cylindrical vessel, jB, with
an opening in the bottom. The materials to be dis-
tilled are brought into B, and rest upon a wire bottom
to prevent particles from falling into A. From the
upper portion of B a pipe, R, leads to the condenser.
As may be seen from the illustration, the still A serves
only for the generation of steam. The latter, in passing
through J5, heats the contents and absorbs the liberated
oil, the combined vapors passing into the condenser.
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 43
This simple modification of the ordinary still affords
some advantage, the principal being the avoidance of
the condensation of a large quantity of water. This in
itself would not amount to much, but it has to be taken
into consideration that, though volatile oils are only
FIG. 4.
very sparingly soluble in water, they are nevertheless
soluble in it to such a degree as to impart to it their
characteristic odor and taste. Such aromatized water can
be utilized in the manufacture of liqueurs and perfu-
mery, but to the manufacturer who restricts himself to
the production of volatile oils alone, this represents a
loss, and it is therefore necessary for him to condense as
little water as possible. And this object can only be
attained by the use of direct steam.
A simple apparatus for the purpose is shown in Fig.
5. The still 6, provided with a helmet, rests free upon
44 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
a suitable support. To prevent cooling, it is surrounded
with a wooden jacket, M. The material to be extracted
rests upon a perforated bottom, beneath which enters the
FIG. 5.
pipe H D, w r hich conducts the steam from the boiler.
For the more uniform distribution of the steam, it is
recommended to let this pipe end in a perforated coil.
The water condensed in the apparatus itself is dis-
charged through the short pipe H, placed in the lowest
part of the still.
An improved apparatus for distilling dry substances
by steam has been patented in Germany by Messrs.
Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic. The tall conical column
at the left (Fig. 6) is the still. About eight inches from
the bottom is a perforated diaphragm or false bottom,
upon which the material to be distilled is placed by in-
troducing it through the still-head. A perforated coil
below the diaphragm projects steam upwards through
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 45
the mass, which is occasionally agitated from without
by means of a horizontal stirring apparatus indicated
by the two crosses. Any condensed water which may
run back is converted into steam by the heating coil
at the bottom. Meanwhile, the mass itself is heated
FIG. 6
by a long coil lining the body of the still and carry-
ing steam at a high pressure. Whatever of volatile oil
is carried forward by the steam passes through the still-
head into the cooler on the right, where both oil and
steam are condensed, and from where they flow through
a small funnel tube into three successive receivers,
which are arranged like Florentine flasks, and which
retain the volatile oil that has separated. From the
last receiver the water, which is still impregnated with
oil, enters another reservoir, shown in the illustration
only by dots, and from there it flows into a small
globular still situated underneath ; in which, by means
46 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
of steam, nearly all the oil still retained is again vola-
tilized with the steam of the water and both again con-
ducted to the cooler.
Attempts have been made to effect the distillation of
volatile oils without the use of steam by means of hot air,
but comparative experiments have shown that less oil
is obtained. With the use of steam, the vegetable
substances swell up by the absorption of water, and thus
afford a free passage to the oil, liberated from the sacs
containing it. With the use of hot air, on the other
hand, the surface of the plant is completely dried and
shrivels to a hard solid mass, which offers considerable
resistance to the process of distillation.
This injurious effect of hot air can be somewhat
overcome by thoroughly moistening the plants to be dis-
tilled, and allowing the hot air, before entering the still,
to pass through a pipe filled with sponges constantly
kept wet. But this process offers no advantages over
that by steam. The apparatus required is far more
complicated ; and, besides, a ventilator has to be pro-
vided for forcing the hot air through the apparatus.
Separation of the oil and water. As previously
mentioned the specific gravity of most volatile oils is
less than that of water. This behavior is utilized for
the separation of the oil and water, by means of a so-
called Florentine flask (Fig. 7). It consists of a glass
flask provided near the bottom with a pipe, a, rising ver-
tically to near the neck c of the flask where it is bent
downwards as shown in the illustration. The mixed
liquid of water and oil drips from the cooling pipe into
the flask, and the water w, being specifically heavier,
separates from the oil floating on the top, and gradually
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 47
ascends in the pipe a, finally flowing over at d. Oils
specifically heavier than water are caught in receivers
provided with a discharge-pipe near the mouth of the
flask as shown in Fig. 8.
FIG. 7.
FIG. 8.
The oil delivered from the receivers is, however, still
mixed with some water, dirt, etc., and for their separa-
tion is allowed to stand quietly for some time. The
final separation is effected either by simply pouring off
the oil, especially if larger quantities have to be handled,
or with the assistance of a separator-funnel (Fig. 9). This
consists of the glass-funnel T secured to the stand Gr,
and provided with a close-fitting lid, P. The fluid is
poured into the funnel, the lid placed in position, and the
whole allowed to rest until the water W is completely
separated from the oil 0. The oil is then separated
from the last drops of water by carefully opening the
faucet H.
Most volatile oils are obtained by distillation, but this
48 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
method is not practicable for separating the odoriferous
principle of many of the most sweet-scented and delicate
flowers, partially because the flowers contain too little
oil, and partially because the oil would lose in quality
if obtained by distillation.
Extraction. For obtaining the volatile oils by ex-
traction various solvents such as ether, bisulphide of
carbon, etc., may be employed. Carefully rectified
petroleum-ether is very suitable for the purpose. It
completely evaporates at about 122 F., and when suffi-
ciently purified does not possess a disagreeable odor.
The process of extraction is briefly as follows : The
material to be extracted is treated in a digester with
petroleum-ether or one of the above-named solvents.
The solution is then drawn off* and the solvent evapo-
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 49
rated in a still. The reeondensed solvent flows imme-
diately back into the digester and further extracts the
material contained therein. The operation is repeated
until nothing soluble remains. In practice some diffi-
culties are, however, connected with this process since,
besides the volatile oils, resins, and coloring and extrac-
tive substances are dissolved, which have to be removed,
as well as the last traces of the solvent, as other-
wise the oil would acquire a foreign odor. Further
the solvents mentioned are very volatile and inflam-
mable, requiring the greatest precautions as regards
fire. For these reasons the extraction process is not
suitable for many purposes, and though at first great
hopes were entertained in regard to it, its use is
limited to substances with a large content of volatile
oil.
For extraction on a small scale, the apparatus, Fig. 10,
is a very suitable one. It is especially adapted for
manufacturers of perfumery, who
wish to extract fresh flowers. It
consists of a cylindrical vessel, (7,
of tin plate, provided on the bot-
tom with the stop-cock a and the
pipe 6. The lid D fits into a
gutter, R, running around the
edge of C, and is hermetically
closed by water in R. The cyl-
inder is filled with the vegetable
substance to be extracted, and
sufficient petroleum-ether or bisulphide of carbon to
cover it, poured in. The lid is then adjusted, the gutter
R filled with water and the apparatus allowed to stand
4
50 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
quietly for forty minutes. To remove the fluid from
the cylinder, the faucet o in the lid is first opened, and
then the stop-cock a; the fluid escapes at 6, and is
caught in a well-closed vessel. The operation may be
repeated once or twice, or the vegetable substance is
pressed out by means of a wooden plate, and the appa-
ratus filled anew. The faucet h serves for emptying
the gutter R.
Extraction being finished, the cock o is opened, and
then the cock a, and the fluid allowed to run into the
flask of the distilling apparatus (Fig. 2). For working
on a large scale, the flask is, however, too small, and is
suitably replaced by a bottle-shaped tin vessel, F (Fig.
11), the conical cover D of which is secured by means
of the rubber ring R and iron screw-clamps, 8. A
bent glass tube fitted into the cover is connected with
the cooling-pipe of the apparatus shown in Fig. 2. But
the oils prepared by extraction are not sufficiently puri-
fied by mere rectification, as traces of the solvent adhere
tenaciously to them, which can only be removed by passing
a current of air through the oil. But contact with air
has an injurious effect upon the
delicacy of the odor. For ex-
pensive oils a current of air
should therefore never be used,
but one of pure carbonic acid.
Fig. 12 shows a suitable ap-
paratus for the purpose. The
large bottle A, filled half full
with pieces of white marble, is
closed with a doubly-perforated
cork ; through one of the holes
is inserted a funnel-tube, and
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 51
through the other a short tube bent at a right angle.
The latter is connected with another tube which reaches
to the bottom of the vessel B, in which is also inserted
a tube open in the bottom, and a short tube bent at a
right angle. Alongside B stands another vessel, C,
arranged in the same manner. The tube leading from
C is connected with a tin pipe, Z), with a rose-like ex-
pansion on its lower end. This pipe is inserted in the
glass balloon containing the volatile oil. Finally, a
pipe leads to the flask F, filled with water.
To put the apparatus in operation, strongly diluted
hydrochloric acid is poured through the funnel-tube
upon the pieces of marble in A, which causes the de-
velopment of a current of carbonic acid. But as the
FIG. 12.
latter carries along water and hydrochloric acid, it has
to be freed from them before coming in contact with
the volatile oil. The vessels B and C serve for the pur-
pose. B is half filled with water, while C contains
strong sulphuric acid. In B the hydrochloric acid car-
ried along with the current of carbonic acid is retained,
52 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
while the water is fixed on the sulphuric acid in C.
The current of carbonic acid passing out from C is per-
fectly pure, and enters the volatile oil through the fine
perforations in the pipe D. It absorbs the traces of
solvent still adhering to the oil, and finally passes out
through the water in the bottle F.
Volatile oils obtained by extraction, and purified by
a current of carbonic acid, will keep for years without
undergoing alteration, if placed immediately in hermeti-
cally closed vessels and stored in a dark place. Oils
purified by a current of air always become somewhat
thickly fluid by storing, and partially lose their fine
odor, which is due to 'the oxygen absorbed during the
process.
For the extraction of oil on a larger scale, the appa-
ratus shown in Fig. 13 is very suitable. It consists of
two principal parts, the actual extracting vessel E, and
the still B. The extracting vessel E sits in a vat con-
taining cold water, TF, the arrangement being such that
the heated water can be removed and replaced by cold.
The still B sits in a boiler, K, filled with hot water.
The apparatus is charged as follows : The conical
head C of the extracting vessel E is unscrewed and its
connection at H with the pipe R loosened. The ex-
tracting vessel is then charged with the vegetable sub-
stance, the head C replaced, and the connection with
the pipe R restored. The cocks JBT 2 and H^ are then
opened, and the required quantity of solvent is brought
into the still. Both cocks are then closed, and the cocks
H and H l opened. The water in the boiler is then
heated until the contents of the still commence to boil.
The vapor of the solvent ascends through the pipe R ;
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 53
on entering the extracting vessel E it is condensed, and
after falling as a spray upon the material to be extracted,
finally returns impregnated with volatile oil to the still
B. Here the solvent is revaporized, and passes again
FIG. 13.
through the material in the extracting vessel, while the
extracted oil remains in the still. During the boiling
of the solvent the extracting vessel must be suitably
cooled by the constant admission of cold water.
AVhen extraction is finished, the cocks JJand H l are
closed, and the cock H 2 , which is connected with a cool-
ing worm, is opened. The solvent is then evaporated,
and regained by condensation. The oil is discharged-
from the still through a pipe in the bottom provided
with the cock H
54
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
The apparatus may also be so arranged that the still
B is connected with two extracting vessels which are
used alternately, while the contents of one are being ex-
tracted the other is emptied and refilled.
For working on a very large scale, HeyPs extracting
apparatus, shown in Fig. 14, is very suitable. It con-
sists of a battery of four or more cast iron or sheet iron
cylinders, A^ to A^ communicating with each other and
surrounded by steam jackets. The extracting vessels
are so arranged that they can be emptied by tilting,
which is rather inconvenient, as all the pipes have to
be unscrewed. In each cylinder close above the bottom
is a perforated plate covered with fine wire-gauze, upon
which the material to be extracted is placed. The
cylinder is filled to the top, and, after placing a similar
plate upon it, the upper opening is closed by a lid sus-
pended to a crane. The cylinder, as well as the lid, is
FIG. 14.
fit,
provided with a broad flange, between which is placed
a hemp tissue firmly pressed together by 12 clamps to
serve for packing. After filling the cylinders with the
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 55
material to be extracted and arranging the packing, the
solvent (bisulphide of carbon) is conducted from a reser-
voir through the principal pipe, B, to the extracting
vessels, and is introduced into A 2 by opening the cock
C 2 , which communicates with the pipe B. The bisul-
phide of carbon passes through the bent pipe D v enters
through the cock E v below the false bottom of the
cylinder A 2 , and, after penetrating the mass and filling
the cylinder, runs through the cock (7 2 of the bent pipe
!) and the cock E a into the cylinder A 3 , reaching the
fourth cylinder in the same manner through the cock
C 3 , the pipe D 3 , and the cock E 4 . From the last cylin-
der it passes as a thoroughly saturated oil solution into
a reservoir, in which a vacuum has been created to pro-
mote the circulation of the fluid in the entire apparatus.
After a quantity of oil solution corresponding to the
contents of the cylinder A 4 has arrived, the cock G 4 is
closed and the cock C 4 opened, whereby the cylinder
A 4 is connected with A v by the bent pipe D 4 and the
cock E v
After the exhaustion of the contents of the cylinder
A v which is recognized by means of the glass tube H 2
placed on D 2 by the fluid running oif being colorless, the
cocks C l and E^ are closed, andC 2 and E 3 opened, whereby
the solvent runs into A 3 , and from there to A 4 and A v ;
A^ being omitted. To effect this omission, and at the
same time not to prevent the introduction of bisulphide
of carbon, (? C 2 , (7 3 , and (7 4 , are so-called two-way
cocks, which, when placed in one position, connect the
principal pipe B with the branch pipes D, but interrupt
a further flow through the principal pipe B ; while in
56 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
the other position they close the pipes D and open the
principal pipe I>.
The cylinder A 2 is, however, still filled with the sol-
vent and material saturated with it. To remove the sol-
vent, the discharge cock JT 2 on the bottom of the cylin-
der is opened, which communicates with the discharge
pipe J, through which the bisulphide of carbon is con-
ducted into a reservoir. The discharge is promoted by
opening the cock J/ 2 , connected with the pipe L, and
the admittance of compressed air, which displaces the
liquid solvent. After the flow of the latter has ceased,
the steam cocks on the jacket 2 and the cylinder P 2 are
opened under constant admission of air and simultaneous
introduction of steam through the pipe N into the upper
part of the cylinder.
The solvent (bisulphide of carbon) converted into
vapor by the heat, is conducted together with the
aqueous vapor, by the admission of air through the cock
_ZT 2 , the pipe J, and a cooling pipe placed between the
extracting vessels and the reservoir, and collected in a
reservoir to be re-used.
On account of the great volatility of bisulphide of
carbon, considerable loss would, however, be incurred
by the above-mentioned admission of air. To avoid
this, the reservoir serving for the reception of the con-
densed bisulphide of carbon and aqueous vapor is closed,
and connected by a pipe with a long, narrow, horizontal
cylinder half filled with oil, and provided with a fan-
shaft. The vapors of bisulphide of carbon entering the
cylinder from the reservoir are absorbed, together with
the air by the oil, the surface of which is constantly agi-
tated by the fan-shaft, while the air, rendered entirely
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 57
inodorous, passes out at the other end. The bisulphide
of carbon is finally separated from the oil by distillation
and again used.
After the cylinder A 3 is sufficiently steamed, it is
emptied and again charged with material and connected
with the cylinder A v ; while the other cylinders undergo
the same manipulations described above.
The saturated oil solution is subjected to distilla-
tion, which is readily effected in HeyPs apparatus,
Fig. 15. The lower part of the still A of boiler
plate is surrounded by the steam-jacket B, into which
steam is admitted through C and the condensed water
discharged through D. The concentrated oil solution
runs from a reservoir, standing at a higher level
58 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
through the pipe E into the still, the admission of a
sufficient quantity being indicated by the gauge F. The
bisulphide of carbon brought to the boiling point (114
F.) by the steam introduced into the jacket, vaporizes
quickly ; the vaporization being still more accelerated
by revolving the stirrer H, by means of the crank G.
The vapors of bisulphide of carbon escape through
four openings in the upper part of the still, into a
capacious worm, the lower part of which enters,
under water, a reservoir.
Notwithstanding the volatility of bisulphide of car-
bon, the oil retains a portion of it so tenaciously that a
complete separation cannot be accomplished by the
introduction of steam into the jacket B. Hence, in
order to vaporize the last traces of the solvent, air is
introduced into the oil through the pipe K, the lower
end of which is perforated. After completed distillation
the oil is discharged through L.
Maceration or infusion. This process is employed
for flowers with an inconsiderable content of volatile oil
or whose odoriferous substance would suffer decompo-
sition or alteration by distillation. The process is
founded on the affinity of odoriferous substances for
fatty bodies which, when impregnated with them, are
called pomades. These are afterwards made to yield the
aroma to strong alcohol, so that finally there is obtained
a solution of the volatile oil in alcohol from which the
pure oil is obtained by distilling off the alcohol. The
fat used, olive oil, lard, etc., should be entirely neutral,
i. e., free from every trace of acid. The fats are puri-
fied by treating them several times in the heat with
weak soda-lye and then washing carefully with water
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 59
until the last traces of the lye are removed, and the fat
shows no alkaline or acid reaction.
With the use of olive oil the so-called " Huiles
antiques" are obtained, which are merely solutions of
volatile oils in the fixed oil. By the use of lard, etc.,
the genuine pomades are obtained, which are directly
used as expensive articles of perfumery, but in the
factories serve as a starting point for the preparation of
volatile oils.
The old process of maceration, which is still in use
in some parts of France, is as follows : A certain quan-
tity of fat is placed in an enameled iron or porcelain
pan provided with a water or steam bath When the
fat is melted, the freshly gathered flowers from which
the aroma is to be extracted are thrown in and left to
digest for from twelve to twenty-four hours, the fat being
kept fluid and stirred frequently. When the flowers are
completely exhausted, the fat is strained from them into
fresh pots, in which it is again macerated with fresh
flow r ers as before. This operation is repeated ten to
fifteen times until the pomade has acquired the desired
strength.
Experience, however, has shown that volatile oils
prepared by this process possess a finer odor the shorter
the time the flowers remain in contact with the fat.
Piver has devised an apparatus which reduces the
time of maceration to the shortest period possible^fThe
kettle to the left, Fig. 16, supplies the fat heated to the
proper temperature, which circulates slowly through the
macerating tank, in which a constant temperature of
149 F. is maintained by means of a steam pipe. The
macerating tank is divided into compartments, in which
60
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
baskets containing the vegetable substance to be ex-
tracted are suspended. The basket on the left contains
the substance which has passed through all the com-
partments ; it is from time to time removed, filled with
FIG. 16.
V M3 >.:\t^ MR; ^>^ ^ip ^Ip- 1 -
ted v
fresh substance, and then attached to the right, the
other baskets being moved to the next compartment to
the left. In this way the fresh substance has to traverse
each compartment from right to left, while the fat flows
slowly from left to right, and saturated with the per-
fume of the substance collects in the tank on the ex-
treme right.
Maceration is employed for the flowers of the orange
(citrus aurantum), of the mock orange (Philadelphus
coronarius), of the acacia (acacia Farnesiand), of the
violet (viola odorata), of the mignonette (reseda odorata),
etc.
The process of absorption, or u enfieurage" as it is
MATEKIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 61
called by the French, is chiefly made use of for pro-
curing the odoriferous principle of very delicate flowers,
the delicious odor of which would be greatly modified,
if not entirely spoiled, by the application of heat. The
older apparatus employed for the purpose consists of a
number of shallow wooden frames of about 15x18
inches, inclosing at half their depth a sheet of glass.
The edges of the frame rise about an inch above each
surface of the glass, and, being flat, the frames stand
securely upon one another, forming often considerable
stacks. These frames are called " chassis" those just
described being termed "chassis aux wires" or "chassis
aux pomades" to distinguish them from a different
form, which is used where oil has to be submitted to
the process of absorption. The process in the case of
pomade is as follows : Each sheet of glass is uniformly
coated with a thin layer of purified grease, care being
taken that the grease does not come in contact with the
woodwork of the frames. The flowers are then thinly
sprinkled, or rather laid, one by one, upon the surface of
the fat, where they are allowed to remain one or two
days, when they are removed and replaced by fresh
ones. The operation is thus continued for twenty-five
or thirty days, until the fat is saturated with aroma.
The frames charged with fat and flowers are stacked
one -upon the other, forming, in fact, a number of little
rectangular chambers.
For perfuming oils a metal sieve, Fig. 17, is substi-
tuted for the glass plate. Upon the sieve a piece of
thick cotton cloth saturated with oil is laid, and upon
this the flowers are scattered, and left there until fresh
ones have to be substituted. The operation is repeated
62
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
until the oil is sufficiently impregnated with aroma, when
the cloth is subjected to pressure and the expressed oil
filtered.
FIG. 17.
Jill
Mil
rrm-rrn-rrr
This process is very tedious, requiring much labor
and a long time for the impregnation of the fat or oil,
but, notwithstanding its faults, it is still pursued to a
great extent, some French firms using 3000 such frames
during the season.
With the apparatus, shown in Fig. 18, the process of
absorption can, however, be conducted with very little
expense of labor and time. It has the further advantage
that the flowers do not come in direct contact with the
fat, whereby a saving of the latter is effected, and it is
less liable to rancidity.
The apparatus consists of a tall wooden box provided
with doors which can be hermetically closed. In the
box are placed upon brackets a number of glass plates,
g, so arranged one above the other that, for instance,
those with uneven numbers are on the left side, leaving
an open space to the right, while those with even num-
bers are arranged on the right side with an open space
to the left.
From the bottom of the box a pipe passes into a sheet-
iron cylinder, K f , filled loosely with flowers* and pro-
<
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 63
vided with lateral openings, and O 1 '. From the lid
of the box K ascends a pipe, e, which is connected with
FIG. 18.
a small ventilating apparatus kept in motion by a clock-
work and weights. This ventilator when in motion
sucks a current of air through the apparatus. The air
enters the cylinder K f at 0, and after ascending through
the flowers and becoming impregnated with the vapors
of the volatile oil enters through the opening 0' into
the box K and, in passing in the direction indicated by
arrows, over the plates coated with fat, yields its aroma
to them.
Another apparatus for the same purpose, devised by
Piver, is shown in Fig. 19. The fat is converted into
64 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
thin macaroni-like threads and brought upon wire gauze
stretched in frames. The flowers to be extracted are
piled upon tinned metallic plates, and the trays con-
taining the fat and the flowers are placed in an air-tight
FIG. 19.
chamber arranged as shown in the illustration. The air
in the chamber is made to circulate to and fro by the
working of a bellows with which the apparatus is pro-
vided, whereby the fat is caused to absorb the odor of
the flowers very rapidly and is less liable to rancidity.
MATERIALS FOR MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. 65
The absorption process is employed for the flowers of
the jasmine (jasminum oderatissimum), the mignonnette
(reseda odorata), the violet (viola tricolor), the tuberose
(polianihes tuberosa\ etc.
Storage of volatile oils. In storing volatile oils, they
should be carefully protected from light and air. Some
oils become darker on exposure to light, while others,
for instance, lemon oil, become colorless. Most volatile
oils, as previously mentioned, absorb oxygen from the
air with avidity and combine chemically with it.
Thinly-fluid oils become preceptibly more thickly-fluid
and finally even rigid, the product of oxidation being a
resinous body. Some volatile oils containing aldehydes
are converted, by the absorption of oxygen, into acids,
cinnamic acid being, for instance, formed in cinnamon
oil, and benzoic acid in oil of bitter almonds.
To prevent evaporation, as well as the above-men-
tioned effects of light and air, the volatile oils should
be preserved in not too large glass bottles kept as full
as possible, and closed with a good cork, over which
it is best to tie a piece of bladder. The bottles
should be stored in a cool, shady place. The preserva-
tion of the oils is assisted by the addition of 0.5 to 1 per
cent, of anhydrous alcohol.
66 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMEKY.
CHAPTEK III.
TESTING VOLATILE OILS.
VOLATILE oils are much adulterated, the adulterations
consisting chiefly in mixing an expensive oil with a
cheaper one and with alcohol ; more rarely with chloro-
form and fat oils. To these adulterations, which have
been common for many years, has recently been added
the previously mentioned hydrocarbon called terpene
or camphene, which is separated in the preparation of
concentrated oils.
For the recognition of the quality of a volatile oil,
serve first of all its physical properties, especially its
color, odor and taste. The specific gravity varies too
much and is not always a sufficient criterion. Reagents
can only be employed with a few oils. The chemical
detection of adulterations is rendered especially difficult
by the fact, that most of the volatile oils form a mixture
of terpenes with other combinations, in which the sepa-
rate constituent parts do not appear in fixed, but in
changeable proportions, and in which the constituents
themselves suffer alteration by storing, air and light.
Odor and taste are so characteristic for every volatile
oil as to suffice in most cases. For testing as to odor,
bring a drop of the oil to be examined upon the dry
palm of one hand and for some time rub with the other,
whereby the odor is more perceptibly brought out. To
TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 67
determine the taste, vigorously shake one drop of the oil
with 15 to 20 grammes of distilled water and then test
with the tongue.
An adulteration with fat oil (poppy oil, castor oil) may
be recognized as follows : Place a drop of the suspected
oil upon blotting paper and expose it to the heat of the
water bath. If it evaporates completely and no stain is
perceptible, the oil is pure. But frequently a transpar-
ent stain remains with old oils without their being adul-
terated, which is due to the resin formed by the absorp-
tion of oxygen and remaining dissolved in the oil. In
this case a transparent ring is generally formed by the
concentration of the resin on the edges of the stain. If
no tangible results are obtained by this test, pour a few
cubic centimeters of the oil upon a watch-crystal and
heat it very slowly upon a piece of sheet-iron, until all
the odor has disappeared. If the watch-crystal be-
comes empty in a short time, nothing but volatile oil
was present ; but if a viscous residue remains, this may
consist either of fatty oil or resin, or of both. Treat the
residue with strong alcohol ; if it dissolves it may be
resin or castor oil. Dilute the solution with much
water ; a white flocculent turbidity indicates resin ; the
separation of an oily liquid, after standing, castor oil. If
the residue remains undissolved, it consists of a fatty oil,
generally oil of almond or olive.
The presence of castor oil can be accurately deter-
mined by bringing the residue from the watch-crystal
into a test-tube by means of a glass-rod, and com-
pounding it with a few drops of nitric acid. A strong
development of gas takes place, after the cessation of
which, solution of carbonate of soda is added as long as
68 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
there is any sign of effervescence. If the added oil was
castor oil, the contents of the test-tube will show a
peculiar odor due to osnauthylic acid formed by the ac-
tion of nitric acid upon castor oil.
Another method of establishing the presence of fat oil
consists in mixing the suspected oil with eight times its
quantity of 90 per cent, alcohol (specific gravity 0.823).
If the oil is unadulterated a clear solution is formed ; if
it contains fat oil, the latter remains undissolved. The
presence of castor oil, which of the fat oils is chiefly
used for adulteration, is, however, not shown by this
method, it being also soluble in alcohol.
A permanent stain upon the paper may, however,
also be formed by fresh oils obtained by expression from
the respective parts of the plant. Thus, lemon oil ob-
tained by expression from the peel, and which has a far
more agreeable odor than that produced by distillation,
always leaves behind a slight grease-stain.
Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine. Independent
of the alcohol added to assist the preservation of some
oils, adulteration with alcohol frequently occurs, especi-
ally in expensive oils. With a content of not more
than 3 per cent, of alcohol, it suffices to allow one to
two drops of the suspected oil to fall into water. In
the presence of alcohol, the drop becomes either imme-
diately surrounded with a milky zone, or it becomes
turbid or whitish after being for some time in contact
with the water. DragendorfPs test is based upon the
fact that oils, which are hydrocarbons, suffer no change
by the addition of sodium (ten drops of oil and a small
chip of sodium), while oils containing hydrocarbons and
oxygenated oils cause with sodium a slight evolution of
TESTJNG VOLATILE OILS. 69
hydrogen gas, and suffer but a slight change during the
first five to ten minutes of the reaction. If, however,
the oil is adulterated with alcohol, not only a violent
evolution of hydrogen gas takes place, but the oil in a
short time becomes brown or dark brown, thickly fluid
or rigid.
The detection of alcohol by means of fuchsine, which
has been frequently recommended, requires special pre-
cautions. It must first be ascertained that the oil is free
from acids and water ; if such is not the case, they must
be removed by means of caustic potash. After settling,
bring, by means of a dry pipette, about five cubic cen-
timeters of the oil into a dry test-tube about ten milli-
meters in diameter, without moistening the walls of the
upper half of the tube. Then bring, by means of a
paper gutter, a few milligrammes of coarsely-powdered
fuchsine into the dry part of the obliquely held tube, at
a distance of one centimeter from the oil. Now heat
gradually over a lamp until the tube begins to tarnish.
With pure oil no evaporation is observed, but if the oil
contains only 0.1 per cent, of alcohol, every speck of
fuchsine will, after heating to boiling and setting aside,
be surrounded by a stain produced by the alcoholic
solution. The chief requirement for this test is that the
oil be free from water. If such is not the case, vapors will
be observed, which condense in the upper portion of the
test-tube, and dissolve fuchsine, and, after flowing back,
sink below the oil with a crackling noise. If the oil
contains alcohol, the condensing vapors dissolve fuch-
sine with greater ease, and in flowing back mix without
crackling.
Hager's tannin test is very reliable. Bring into a
70 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
test-tube 5 to 10 drops of the oil to be examined, add a
piece of tannin the size of a pea, shake so that the
tannin is moistened by the oil, and let the whole stand
at a temperature of 59 to 68 F. In most volatile
oils tannin is insoluble, and, if the oil is pure, floats for
days on the surface without change. If, however, the
oil contains alcohol, the tannin absorbs the latter, accord-
ing to the quantity present, in 3 to 48 hours, and forms
with it a more or less transparent, viscous, tough, or
smeary mass resembling a soft resin, which settles on
the bottom, and adheres so firmly to it, as well as to
the sides of the tube, that it cannot be moved by shak-
ing. The mass may be examined as to its consistency
with a knitting needle. Traces of moisture in the oil
are not detrimental to the test, the tannin mass separat-
ing in the form of a hyaline mass only in few oils, and
if this mass is tested with the knitting needle it will be
found not tough or smeary, but hard, and may some-
times be divided into small grains. With oil of bitter
almonds, cassia oil, and some oils of clove, as well as
volatile oil containing an acid, the tannin test is not
available. The first two oils even dissolve tannin, and
large quantities of it, if they contain alcohol.
The above-mentioned oils may, however, be rendered
fit for the tannin test by mixing them with double their
volume of benzine or petroleum-ether, and allowing the
mixture to stand for two or three days. If, however,
the oils contain much alcohol, the tannin is dissolved.
The use of powdered tannin is not advisable, because it
generally deposits in a thin layer on the bottom, and its
alteration is not so perceptible. If, for practical reasons,
a content of 0.5 per cent, anhydrous alcohol might be
TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 71
accepted as permissible in a volatile oil, the tannin test
would have to be so modified as to mix 10 drops of
the oil with a piece of tannin the size of two peas,
and allow the whole to stand for one hour. In this
time the above-mentioned content of alcohol would yield
no result.
Detection of chloroform. An adulteration with chlo-
roform, if moderate, cannot always be detected by the
odor and taste. In most cases, chloroform will consid-
erably increase the specific gravity of the oil. Bring
into a test-tube 15 drops of the suspected oil, 45 to 90
drops of alcohol, and 30 to 40 drops of dilute sulphuric
acid. After thorough shaking, add 2 or 3 shavings of
zinc sheet and heat until a vigorous evolution of hydro-
gen takes place. After again shaking, set the whole
aside, and heat again when the evolution of gas becomes
weaker. This heating and gentle shaking of the fluid is
several times repeated. After 20 to 25 minutes, com-
pound the fluid with an equal volume of cold distilled
water, shake vigorously and filter through a paper-filter
moistened with water. Strongly acidulate the filtrate
with nitric acid and compound with nitrate of silver
solution. If chloroform is present, turbidity or a pre-
cipitate of chloride of silver appears.
Detection of benzine. An adulteration with benzine
can be readily detected only in oils specifically heavier
than water. The separation of benzine is effected by
distillation from a small glass flask in the water bath.
The distillate together with an equal volume of nitric
acid of 1.5 specific gravity is gently heated in a test-
tube. A too vigorous reaction is modified by cooling in
cold water, and a too sluggish action quickened by gentle
72 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
heating (dipping in warm water). If the mixture has a
yellow color, dilute it with water, shake with ether,
mix the decanted ethereal solution with alcohol and hy-
drochloric acid, add some zinc and place the whole in a
lukewarm place to convert the nitrobenzol formed into
aniline. After evolution of hydrogen is done, neutralize
with potash lye, shake, take oft" the layer of ether, let the
latter evaporate and add to the residue a few drops of
calcium chloride solution. If benzine is present, a
blue-violet color reaction takes place.
Adulterations with alcohol, chloroform, and benzine
are quantitatively determined by bringing a weighed
quantity of the oil into a glass flask so that it occupies
about four-fifths of the volume of the flask. Place
upon the flask a cork through which has been passed a
glass-tube bent at a right angle and provided with a
cylindrical glass vessel serving as a receiver and heating
in the water bath. If the distance from the level of the
oil to the angle of the glass tube in which it inclines
downwards, amounts, for instance, to 4.72 inches, and
the neck of the flask up to its angle is 2.75 inches high
outside of the direct effect of the heat of the water bath,
only the above-mentioned adulterants distill over, while
the vapor of the volatile oil condenses at a height of 2.75
inches and flows back into the flask The distillate is
weighed and examined as to its derivation. First add
one cubic centimeter of it to two or three cubic centi-
meters of potassium acetate solution of specific gravity
1.197 and shake moderately. If a clear mixture results,
alcohol alone is present. If, however, the mixture is
not clear, and the distilled fluid sinks down and collects
on the bottom of the test-tube, chloroform is very likely
TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 73
present, and if it remains floating upon the acetate solu-
tion, benzine. Next bring two to three centimeters of
the distillate into a test-tube and add a piece of sodium
metal, the size of a pea. If violent foaming, i. e., an
evolution of gas, takes place, alcohol is certainly
present, and possibly also chloroform and benzine
towards which sodium is indifferent. However, in the
presence of benzine, the sodium solution would be
colorless, and in the presence of chloroform, yellowish
and turbid. In case the sodium produces no reaction
and alcohol is, therefore, not present, add an e^ual vol-
ume (two to three cubic centimeters) of anhydrous alco-
hol, and after moderately shaking allow the solution of
the sodium and the evolution of gas to proceed, whereby
benzine produces a nearly colorless, turbid fluid, and
chloroform a yellowish, milky one. Now dilute the
fluid with an equal or double volume of water, shake
and allow the mixture to stand quietly. In the presence
of benzine a colorless, turbid layer collects on the bot-
tom of the fluid, w r hile that collecting in the presence
of chloroform is yellowish. In the latter case, i. e., in the
presence of chloroform, the aqueous filtrate yields with
lead acetate solution a white precipitate (lead chloride
and lead hydroxide). The adulterant having thus been
recognized, further particulars are learned from the
specific gravity of the oil as well as of the distillate.
Adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids, such
as are gained in the preparation of concentrated or
patent oils, are difficult to recognize. They may be
detected by the specific gravity, the terpenes being, as
a rule, specifically lighter, their specific gravity varying
between 0.840 and 0.870.
74 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
The detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a
lower quality is very difficult, if not led to it by the odor
and taste. Many methods for establishing such adul-
terations have been proposed, of which the following are
the most important :
I. Test with iodine. This test is based upon the fact
that some oils violently detonate with iodine, while
others develop heat and vapors, and others again remain
indifferent. For this test pour upon about 0.19 gramme
of dry iodine in a watch-crystal 4 to 6 drops of the oil
to be examined.
1. A vigorous reaction (detonation) with considerable
increase in the temperature and emission of vapors takes
place with the following oils : oils of bergamot, lemon,
lavender, nutmeg, orange peel, spike, turpentine, worm-
wood.
2. Such a reaction as mentioned under 1, does not
take place with oils of bitter almonds, copaiba, calamus,
clove, peppermint, rose.
3. Moderate heating and slight vapors are developed
with oils of anise-seed, fennel, camomile, curly mint,
marjoram, rosemary, sassafras, thyme.
When an oil of the second series becomes heated with
iodine and evolves vapors, it may first of all be adul-
terated with cheaper oils. This may also be the case
when an oil of the third series reacts violently with
iodine and evolves vapors with strong heating. For-
merly the iodine test was highly valued ; it has, how-
ever, been shown to be unreliable since it is frequently
dependent on the age of the oil.
In place of iodine, Rudolph Eck recommends a very
dilute alcoholic iodine solution, which is not discolored
TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 75
by oils of turpentine, while other oils discolor it. Dis-
solve a drop of the oil to be examined in 3 cubic cen-
timeters of 90 to 100 per cent, alcohol, and add a drop
of the iodine solution. The latter is not discolored in
the presence of an oil of turpentine. There are also,
however, several volatile oils, which do not discolor the
iodine solution. Mierzinski mentions the following :
All cold-expressed oils from the Aurantiacece, further
oils of coriander, caraway, galanga, rue, sassafras, rose,
rosemary, anise-seed, fennel, calamus, neroli, angelica,
wormwood. Hence, this reaction can-not be relied upon.
II. Hoppers nitroprusside of copper test. This test
sometimes gives good results, but only with hydrocar-
bons absolutely free from oxygen and oxygenated oils.
It is, therefore, not suitable for oils derived from the
Aurantiaeece. The process is as follows : Add to a
small quantity of the oil to be examined in a per-
fectly dry test-tube, 2 to 5 milligrammes of pure
nitroprusside of copper previously thoroughly dried
and finely pulverized, shake vigorously and gradually
heat to boiling. After boiling for a few seconds
allow to cool. If the oil is free from oil of turpentine,
or another oil containing no oxygen, the precipitate
formed is brown, black, or gray, and according to
the quantity of the reagent added and the original
color of the oil, the supernatant oil will be differently
colored and appear more or less dark. If, however, the
oil is adulterated with oil of turpentine, the precipitate
formed shows a handsome green or blue-green color,
while the supernatant oil retains its original color or at
the utmost acquires a very slightly darker one. The
longer the oil is allowed to stand after settling, the more
76 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
distinct and beautiful the color of the oil and of the pre-
cipitate appears. For the establishment and certain
recognition of very small quantities of oil of turpentine
in oxygenated oils, it is best to first add very little of
the nitroprusside of copper to the oil to be tested, and
a larger quantity o~ily after being convinced either of
the purity or adulteration of the oil. This is done to be
able, on the one hand, better to judge the reaction, if the
oil is pure, and, on the other, if it is adulterated, to
establish such adulteration with certainty and to ap-
proximately estimate the quantity of oil of turpentine
present. The less nitroprusside of copper is used, the
better small quantities of oil of turpentine can be
detected.
Nearly all volatile oils free from oxygen show the
same behavior towards nitroprusside of copper; they
decompose it, which is not the case with oxygenated oils.
The behavior, of the latter is shown in the following
table :
TESTING VOLATILE OILS.
77
Name of
the oil.
Color of the
oil.
Proportion
of nitro-
prusside of
copper to oil.
Color of the oil after
the experiment.
Color of the
precipitate.
Caraway . .
clear as water
1 1000 parts
slightly yellowish
dirty gray.
and colorless
Fennel V ."
Dill ....
pale yellowish
pale reddish-
1 1000 "
1 1000 "
brownish-yellow
becomes first color-
black.
yellow
less, then yellowish
Anise-seed .
pale yellow
1 1000 '$
yellow
"
Camomile
(green) . .
Lavender . .
yellowish
pale yellow
1 1000 '
1 1000 "
brownish-yellow
wine-yellow
ash-gray,
slate-gray.
u
M
1 100 "
brown-yellow
**
Mint (curly)
colorless
1 1000 "
wine-yellow
first gray,
then black.
Peppermint
1 1000 "
yellowish
black.
"
"
1 100 "
brownish-yellow
Balm . . .
yellow
1 1000 "
dark wine-yellow
"
Marjoram
colorless
1 1000 "
yellowish
"
"
"
1 100 "
brown-yellow
*<
Sage . . !
slightly yel-
1 1000 "
wine-yellow
dark green.
lowish
" ...
"
1 100 "
brown-yellow
dark green.
then nearly
black.
Thyme (field)
"
1 1000 "
brownish-yellow
slate-gray.
Wormwood .
yellow-brown
1 100 "
1 1000 "
dark brown-yellow
dark brown
nearly black,
black.
Tansy . . .
pale yellow
1 1000 "
red-brown
dirty brown.
Milfoil . .
dark azure-
1 1000 "
first pale blue, then
gray-brown.
blue
dark green
Cajeput . .
colorless
1 1000 "
brownish-yellow
black.
Clove . . .
slightly yel-
1 2000 "
rose-red and clear
slate-gray.
lowish
" ...
"
1 1000 "
violet-red and clear
"
" ...
"
1 500 "
cherry-red and
"
"
1 100 "
opaque
dark cherry-red
and opaque
Cassia . . .
brownish-
1 1000 "
brownish-red to
black.
yellow
hyacinth-red
**
*'
1 100 "
dark brown-red
**
Sassafras . .
Star anise
yellowish
pale yellow
1 1000 "
1 1000 "
yellowish-brown
dark wine-yellow
Valerian . .
Rue ....
pale greenish
slightly yel-
1 100 "
1 100 "
brownish-yellow
brown-yellow
ash-gray.
lowish
Bergamotte .
yellowish
1 1000 "
dark yellow
"
1 100 "
brownish-red
If these oxygenated oils are mixed with oils free from
oxygen, for instance, oil of turpentine, they show exactly
the same behavior as oils free from oxygen ; the nitro-
prusside of copper is not decomposed and retains its
gray-green color. If, for instance, oil of cloves is
78 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
mixed with oil of turpentine, the red coloration by
nitroprusside of copper does not appear.
III. Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test. Bring
into a test-tube of about 0.5 inch diameter, five to six
drops of the oil to be tested and twenty-five to thirty drops
of pure concentrated sulphuric acid, and mix the two fluids
by shaking, whereby either 'no heating takes place or a
scarcely perceptible one, or the heating is strong or very
vigorous and in some cases increased to the evolution of
vapors. The mixture is either clear or turbid. After
complete cooling, add to the mixture eight to ten cubic
centimeters of 90 per cent, alcohol, and after closing the
tube with the finger, shake vigorously. The mixture
now shows a different color, is clear or turbid, and the
deposit formed after standing for one day is also differ-
ently colored and either soluble or insoluble in boiling
alcohol.
The mixture of oil, sulphuric acid and alcohol is per-
fectly clear and transparent with oils of bitter almonds,
fennel, clove and rose ; with anise-seed oil and star anise-
seed oil only the alcoholic layer over the mixture of sul-
phuric acid and oil is clear. The mixture of oil, acid and
alcohol is slightly turbid or nearly clear with oils of
valerian, peppermint and field thyme. With most of the
other volatile oils occurring in commerce, the mixture
is more or less milky turbid. Heating of the oil and acid
mixtures does not take place with pyrogenous oils (pe-
troleum, benzine) or only to a very slight degree, as with
oils of peppermint and mustard.
IV. Hager's guaiacum reaction* serves for the detec-
* Hager, Chemische Reactionen zur Nachweise des Terpentinoels
in den aetherischen Oelen, etc. Berlin, 1885.
TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 79
t ion of oil of turpentine in a volatile oil. By pouring upon
as much guaiacum, freshly powdered, as will lie upon the
point of a small knife, in a test-tube 1 cubic centi-
meter (25 drops) of spike oil, and heating nearly to boil-
ing over a petroleum lamp, the oil after being removed
from the flame and allowing the undissolved resin to
settle, shows a yellow color. By now pouring upon an
equal quantity of guaiacum in another test-tube 25 drops
of spike oil and 5 drops of rectified oil of turpentine,
and heating nearly to boiling, the oil after being re-
moved from the flame shows a dark violet color.
Various other oils behave in the same manner as spike
oil, and hence a content of oil of turpentine can be
readily detected in them. Other oils do not exhibit this
behavior ; but this can be remedied by adding, in test-
ing for oil of turpentine, a few drops of an oil of the
first class.
The guaiacum reaction is an ozone reaction and with
reference to this, the volatile oils may be divided into
three classes :
a. Oils inclining to the formation of ozone. Foremost
of these is oil of turpentine, especially when rectified.
Oils of tansy, rue, mint, juniper, zedoary, etc., show con-
siderably less inclination.
b. Oils which, especially when heated, directly incite the
oil of turpentine to form ozone, and to color guaiacum
violet or blue. Such oils are many kinds of oil of cit-
ronella, oils of spike, calamus, cedar, etc.
c. Oils with a content of oil of turpentine, which re-
main indifferent towards guaiacum. To such oils, if to
be tested for oil of turpentine, with the assistance of the
80 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
guaiacum reaction, a few drops of an oil of the second
class have to be added.
Y. Hiibl's iodine method. Mr. C. Barenthin has
applied Hiibl's iodine method for fixed oils to the
examination of volatile oils. He uses the following
solutions :
1. Fifty grammes iodine and 60 grammes of mercuric
chloride in a liter of alcohol freed from fusel oil, and
let stand for 12 hours.
2. Twenty-four grammes of hyposulphite of sodium
in a liter of water.
3. A ten per cent, solution of iodide of potassium.
Dissolve 0.1 to 0.2 gramme of the volatile oil in 10
cubic centimeters of chloroform, and add first 15 cubic
centimeters of the iodine-mercuric chloride solution ; let
stand three or four hours, and, in case the mixture gets
discolored, add a few more centimeters of solution. Now
add 10 to 15 cubic centimeters iodide of potassium
solution, dilute with 150 cubic centimeters of water, and
titrate with hyposulphite till the mixture remains clear
for about a minute. The iodide of potassium solution
must be added before the water, and the relative propor-
tions between this solution and the iodine-mercuric
chloride solution must be 15 to 20 cubic centimeters.
The quantity of iodine solution consumed is calculated
to iodine for 100 parts and the figure thus obtained is
designated as the " iodine number."
Barenthin has in this manner determined the iodine
number of several volatile oils; other experimenters,
however, for instance, Kremel and Davies,* have found
* Pliarm. Centralh. 1888, S. 482 u. 555 ; 1889, S. 133.
TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 81
different numbers for the same oils, so that this method
requires further thorough examination before it can be
classed as available.
VI. A. Krernel has endeavored to utilize titration
or saponification with alcoholic potash lye for the exami-
nation of volatile oils. In his experiments he was guided
by the following points : A series of volatile oils contains
partially free organic acids, like oils of bitter almonds
and cinnamon, and partially aldehydes or other combina-
tions. Now it seems not impossible, that up to a certain
limit, the quantities of these combinations in the separate
volatile oils remain constant, thus presenting the oppor-
tunity of testing the respective oils as to their quality
and purity by saponification. In some cases these com-
binations are the chief bearers of the specific odor, and
hence the determination of the " saponification number"
becomes of double value. It is, of course, self-evident
that not every volatile oil can be saponified, and Kremel
admits that, even where saponification takes place, it is
not in every case a sure test.
The execution of the method is as follows : Dissolve
1 gramme of the oil to be examined in 2 to 3 cubic cen-
timeters of 90 per cent, alcohol freed from acid, com-
pound the solution with a few drops of phenol-phthalein
solution, and titrate the free acid with J normal alcoholic
potash lye. The milligrammes of caustic potash used
are designated the " acid number" After having thus
determined the content of acid, add to the same solu-
tion 10 cubic centimeters of the same potash lye, heat
for J hour upon the water bath, and then titrate back the
excess of potash lye with J normal hydrochloric acid.
In this manner the " saponification number" is obtained.
6
82 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
(In some cases when the final reaction is not plainly per-
ceptible, it is advisable to correspondingly dilute with
water after heating the alcoholic fluid.) The saponifi-
cation number, less the acid number, gives the " ether
or ester number"
Kremel has in this manner examined a large number
of volatile oils and partially obtained surprising results.
Rose oil gives a saponification number of 12, and
geranium oils one of 40 to 50. While lavender oils
give very high saponification numbers, oil of lemons does
not. Artificial oil of bitter almonds shows higher
saponification numbers than the natural oil. By further
compounding the saponified portions of the latter with
acid, a crystalline precipitate of benzoin is formed, the
quantity of which amounts to from 40 to 50 per cent, of
the oil used. Such a precipitate, but only in very small
quantities, is also formed in peach kernel oil, but not in
other similar oils nor in artificial oil of bitter almonds.
VII. F. R. Williams has recently endeavored to
utilize for testing volatile oils Maumen^'s test, which is
based upon the increase in temperature produced in oils
by concentrated sulphuric acid, and which gives valuable
points for the examination of some fat oils. Of course,
the large quantities of oil otherwise prescribed cannot be
used. While for the examination of fat oils 50 grammes
of oil are mixed with 10 cubic centimeters of concen-
trated sulphuric acid in a beaker glass wrapped around
with cotton, Williams could use only six cubic centi-
meters of volatile "oil. They were brought into a very
small beaker glass enveloped in cotton. After reading
off the temperature, twelve cubic centimeters of concen-
trated sulphuric acid were added and the whole stirred
TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 83
with the thermometer until the temperature no longer
rose. Numbers were in this manner obtained which
might in some cases, for instance, cassia oil, furnish
guiding points for judging the purity of the "oil.
Planchon proposes the following procedure in order
to recognize a volatile oil :
A. The oil is specifically lighter than water.
1. The substance is solid and only melts at 347 F. :
. Camphor.
2. The oil at a temperature of over 32 F. contains a
crystalline stearoptene.
a. The oil is laevorotatory, the stearoptene melts at
77 F., and, on adding sulphuric acid, a clear
solution remains behind : Rose oil.
b. The oil possesses no rotatory power, the stearop-
tene melts at 50 F., and, on adding sulphuric
acid, two layers are formed, only one of which
is liquid : Anise-seed oil.
c. The oil is dextrorotatory, the stearoptene melts at
41 F., and, on adding sulphuric acid, a nearly
colorless fluid remains behind : Fennel oil.
3. The oil is perfectly fluid and clear at above 32 F.
I. The oil explodes with iodine, emitting violet vapors.
a. The oil thickens in the air and readily forms resin.
It requires for its solution several volumes of al-
cohol : Oil of conifers.
b. The oil, on exposure to the air, does not thicken
and but slowly forms resin,
o. It is dextrorotatory.
The liquid oil dissolves santalin : Oil of the
aurantiacece.
84 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
The thick oil does not dissolve santalin :
Mace oil.
j3. The oil is laevorotatory.
The oil shows an acid reaction and dissolves
in equal parts of alcohol : Lavender oil.
The oil shows a neutral reaction and dissolves
in 12 to 15 parts of alcohol : Marjoram oil.
II. The oil gives no explosion with iodine, but shows
an increase in temperature with or without emission of
red vapors.
a. The oil shows an acid reaction.
a. The blue or green oil shows the acid reaction
only indistinctly : Milfoil oil.
/3. The colorless or brown oil gives a turbid fluid
with sulphuric acid. It is laevorotatory :
Spanish marjoram oil.
The oil is rendered but slightly turbid by
sulphuric acid; it acquires a red-violet
color by nitric acid, has no effect upon the
plane of polarization, and has a peculiar
odor : Oil of valerian.
b. The oil is neutral.
a. It dissolves with difficulty in alcohol.
j3. The oil is miscible in every proportion with
alcohol.
1. It is dextrorotatory.
The oil is colorless or yellowish, it thick-
ens on exposure to the air, and dissolves
and reduces fuchsine : Caraway oil.
The oil is thick, yellow-brown or red-
yellow, and has a peculiar odor : Cala-
mus oil.
TESTING VOLATILE OILS. 85
2. The oil is laevorotatory.
It is fluid and has an aromatic odor:
Rosemary oil.
The oil is thick and very pungent :
Onbebs oil.
III. The oil dissolves iodine without vigorous reac-
tion and without an increase in the temperature.
a. The oil is blue and green.
It has an agreeable, camphor-like odor : Camomile
oil.
The green oil thickens in the air and is dextro-
rotatory : Wormwood oil.
The oil is generally green and produces no effect
upon the plane of polarization : Cajeput oil.
b. The oil is colorless or yellow-brown.
a. It separates a solid stearoptene at about 32
F. : Rue oil.
|3. The oil remains liquid at several degrees be-
low 32 F.
1. Dextrorotatory oils.
The oil shows an acid reaction, and gives
with sulphuric acid a somewhat turbid
solution, which becomes clear by the
addition of alcohol : Dill oil.
The oil gives with sulphuric acid a yel-
low-red turbid solution, which becomes
clear and peach-blossom red by the ad-
dition of alcohol : Eucalyptus oil.
2. Laevorotatory oil.
The oil showing an acid reaction becomes
thick in the air and has a characteristic
odor : Mint oil.
86 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
The oil shows a neutral reaction and has
a camphor-like odor : Thyme oil.
IV. The oil does not dissolve iodine, does not heat
with sulphuric acid, and does not react upon nitric acid.
The odor is empyreumatic : Petroleum.
B. The oil is specifically heavier than water.
1. The oil shows an acid reaction.
It is soluble in 30 parts of water, boils at 356
F., and smells of bitter almonds : Oil of bitter
almonds.
The oil has an agreeable, sweet odor and boils at
from 392 to 431.6 F. : Wintergreen oil.
2. The oil shows a neutral reaction.
a. The oil is laevorotatory.
It becomes blue by the addition of sulphuric
acid : Oil of cloves.
b. The oil is optically inactive.
The thick oil gives with sulphuric acid a tur-
bid, black-brown fluid ; the odor is agree-
able : Cinnamon oil.
c. The oil is dextrorotatory.
The thick oil has an agreeable odor : Sassa-
fras oil.
VOLATILE OILS USED IS PERFUMERY. '87
CHAPTER IV.
THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY.
THE volatile oils, as previously mentioned, may be di-
vided into three groups, viz : the pure hydrocarbons,
oxygenated oils, and sulphuretted oils. Chemically, this
division is, however, of little value, since, among bodies
which should be classed according to it in one of the
groups, combinations are found which vary very much
in a chemical respect, and belong partially in the groups
of alcohols, indifferent bodies, acids, etc.
It is, therefore, preferred not to attempt a classifica-
tion of the volatile oils according to their chemical com-
position, but simply to enumerate them in alphabetical
order.
Acacia, oil of, commonly called oil of cassie. The
flowers or buds of the acacia Farnesiana yield a some-
what thickly-fluid, greenish -yellow oil of a very intense
but delightful odor. The oil may be obtained either by
extraction or absorption. The acacia is cultivated in
special plantations along the Riviera di Genova. These
plantations being controlled by a few perfumers, the oil
is not allowed to reach the market, and does not form an
article of commerce. The green-colored extrait $ acacia
is a solution of the oil in alcohol.
Almond oil (bitter) (oleum amygdalae amarce) is obtained
by submitting bitter almond cake (left after the expres-
88 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMEEY.
sion of the fixed oil from bitter almonds) to distillation
with water. The volatile oil does not exist ready
formed in the bitter almond, nor in the almond cake,
but results from the decomposition of a glucoside called
" amygdalin," contained in the cake, under the influence
of emulsin and water, the emulsin acting as a ferment,
into benzylic aldehyde, glucose and prussic acid. The
almond tree grows wild, but is also cultivated in South-
ern Europe, Africa, Barbary, Palestine and Syria. The
bitter almonds brought from Barbary are considered the
best. Besides, in almonds, amygdalin occurs in various
other plants ; for instance, in the leaves of the cherry
laurel, the leaves and kernels of the peach, the kernels
of the black cherry and other varieties of prunus and
amygdalus, they all yielding, after maceration with
water, a distillate containing prussic acid and oil of
bitter almonds.
Instead of the comparatively expensive bitter almonds,
peach kernels freed from their hard shells are extensively
used in the fabrication of oil of bitter almonds. The oil
is prepared as follows : The press cakes of bitter almonds
or peach kernels are ground and soaked about twenty-
four hours in twice their weight of water to which one-
third their weight of salt has been added. The whole
is then submitted to distillation. The temperature of
the water should not exceed 113 to 122 F. The
emulsin contained in the almonds possesses only within
certain limits of temperature the power of decomposing
amygdalin, and, if heated to 176 F., becomes inopera-
tive. Hence, if the almond paste is quickly heated to
boiling, the emulsin becomes inoperative before all the
amygdalin is decomposed, and a portion of it being con-
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 89
sequently lost, the yield is insufficient. The distillation
of the almond paste is effected in a current of steam.
A portion of the prussic acid formed by the decom-
position of the amygdalin adheres tenaciously to the oil.
This content of prussic acid makes the oil of bitter
almonds exceedingly poisonous, while in itself it is non-
poisonous. It can be freed from the prussic acid by
shaking with ferrous sulphate (blue vitriol) solution.
By then distilling over burnt lime the originally yellow
or yellowish oil is obtained colorless. It is then thinly
fluid, of a peculiar agreeable odor and strongly nutty
taste. Its specific gravity is 1.043 at 59 F., but varies
a little with age. It boils at 356 F., and dissolves in
13 parts of water, but more readily in alcohol and ether.
In the air it is rapidly converted into benzoic acid by
the absorption of oxygen. It has to be carefully pro-
tected from air and light and kept in well-closed bottles
in a dark place. The crude oil, containing from 2 to 5
per cent, prussic acid, has generally a yellowish color.
Oil of bitter almonds may be prepared artificially in
many ways. By allowing chlorine to flow into boiling
toluene, the latter is converted into benzyl chloride :
C 6 H.(CH 3 ) +C1 2 = C.H/CH, 01) + HCl
toluene chlorine benzyl chloride hydrogen chloride
By withdrawing the chlorine and one atom hydrogen
from the benzyl chloride and introducing for it one
atom oxygen, the benzyl chloride is converted into ben-
zaldehyde. This conversion is readily effected by con-
tinuously boiling, best with the introduction of carbonic
acid, 1 part of benzyl chloride with 1J parts of lead
nitrate and 10 parts of water, and finally distilling the
90 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
benzaldehyde off by steam. The decomposition takes
place according to the following equation :
2[C 6 H 5 (CH 2 C1)] + Pb(N0 3 )2 =
2[C 6 H 5 (CHO)] + PbCl 2 + NA 4- H,O.
The crude benzaldehyde thus obtained is agitated
with warm solution of acid sodium sulphite, the so-
lution formed thereby is separated from undissolved
oily particles and cooled, whereby a combination of
benzaldehyde with acid sodium sulphate crystallizes
out. This combination is separated from the re-
maining fluid, decomposed by acid and submitted
to distillation, whereby benzaldehyde passes over.
Large quantities of benzaldehyde are at present pre-
pared according to this method. The identity of
benzaldehyde with oil of bitter almonds has been
established by Lippmann and Hawliczek.
Genuine oil of almonds is much adulterated, chiefly
with alcohol, nitrobenzole, and various cheaper oils.
An addition of 3 to 5 per cent, of alcohol is frequently
made by Italian dealers in order to conceal a content of
water, which at a low temperature is apt to render the
oil turbid. To detect the presence of alcohol, moder-
ately heat a sample of the oil in a distilling apparatus
and compound the drops, first passing over with sodium
carbonate solution and then with potassium iodide sol^-
tion. In the presence of alcohol a yellowish crystalline
precipitate of iodoform is formed.
An addition of synthetically composed oil might seem
of no importance, since the natural oil does not differ
from it. However, for very fine perfumery the natural
oil cannot be replaced by the artificial, it having been
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 91
thus far impossible to obtain the latter absolutely chemi-
cally pure. It always contains small quantities of
undecomposed chlorine combinations which injure the
taste and odor. To detect such oil in the natural oil,
bring a few drops upon a tuft of cotton and ignite it.
Over the burning flame invert a beaker moistened inside
with water. On the moist sides of the beaker the soot
and hydrochloric acid formed by the combustion of the
chlorine combination are precipitated. When the flame
is extinguished, the beaker is rinsed out with water, the
fluid filtered and tested for chlorine with nitrate of
silver. An addition of 10 per cent, artificial oil can in
this manner be accurately determined.
If genuine oil of bitter almonds containing prussic acid,
be heated with an excess of alcoholic potash lye, and the
excess of the latter be neutralized with hydrochloric acid,
benzoin amounting to 40 to 50 per cent, of the weight of
oil of bitter almonds is, according to A. Kremel, separated.
By subjecting artificial oil of bitter almonds to the same
treatment, no benzoin is separated, so that the genuine
oil can in this manner be distinguished from the artifi-
cial. Kremel further found that oil of bitter almonds
prepared from apricot kernels, when treated in an analo-
gous manner, yielded considerably less benzoin, and
that cherry-laurel oil containing prussic acid, which has
been considered identical with oil of bitter almonds, sepa-
rated no benzoin whatever. Should further experiments
prove the constancy of this phenomenon, this reaction
would be a convenient means of distinguishing the four
products.
An adulteration with nitrobenzole and other volatile
oils is recognized by mixing 2 drops of the oil with 100
92 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
drops of distilled water, and shaking vigorously. Pure
oil must completely dissolve. However, the test yields
accurate results only with the use of actually pure dis-
tilled water and by accurately observing the above-
mentioned proportions. If to 5 cubic centimeters of 90
per cent, alcohol and an equal quantity of distilled water
in a test-tube, 10 drops of the oil be added, and, after
closing the tube with the finger, mixture be effected by
gently turning the tube twice upside down, a clear solution
will immediately result if the oil is pure. If, however,
it contains nitrobenzole, even only 1 per cent., the latter
separates, at first rendering the fluid turbid, but in the
course of a minute, when gently agitated, it floats in the
form of minute drops upon the fluid, while, when at
rest, these drops collect to larger ones on the bottom ot
the test-tube. If the oil becomes only turbid, adultera-
tion with other volatile oils is indicated. Another test,
given by Wagner, is based upon the difference in the
specific gravity of mixtures of oil of bitter almonds with
oil of mirbane. The specific gravity of commercial oil
of bitter almonds varies between 1.040 and 1.043 and
that of oil of mirbane between 1.180 and 1.201.
5 o. c. of pure oil of bitter almonds weigh 5.29 grammes.
5 " mixed with i oil of mirbane " 5.39 "
5 " " " " " " 5.57 "
5 " " " f " " " 5.75 "
5 " of pure " " " 5.90 "
Oil of bitter almonds is much used in the fabrication
of perfumery. In a pure state its odor is by no means
agreeable, but rather strong and stupefying. When
strongly diluted it is, however, very pleasant.
Angelica oil is obtained by distillation with water
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 93
from the root of Angelica Archangelica L., natural
order Umbettiferae. The oil is lighter than water, pos-
sesses the spicy odor of the root and an aromatic pun-
gent taste. It consists mostly of a terpene which turns
the plane of polarization to the right, and boils at
320 F.
Besides the oil from the root, one obtained from the
seeds also occurs in commerce. It is, however, more
expensive. In a fresh state it is amber-yellow, and has
a specific gravity of 0.8549 at 59 F. ; older oil is
thickly-fluid, brown, and has a specific gravity of 0.9086.
It contains a terpene which turns the plane of polari-
zation to the right, and has a lemon-like odor. It is
used for fine perfumery.
Anise-seed oil (oleum anisi). The anise (Pimpinella
anisum L.\ natural order Umbelliferae, contains volatile
oil in all parts, but chiefly in the seeds. Dry anise-seed
yields by distillation 2J to 3 per cent, of oil, while the
peduncle and chaff contain at the utmost 1 per cent, of
oil, which is said to be richer in stearoptene. The anise-
seed oil prepared in Southern Russia has always been
highly valued, but as it is generally considerably adul-
terated, the Leipsic manufacturers of volatile oils prefer
to import the seed and distill it themselves.
Freshly prepared anise-seed oil is colorless or straw-
yellow, has the odor of anise and a sweetish taste, leav-
ing a burning sensation upon the tongue. It is thinly
fluid at 68 F., but commences to congeal at a somewhat
lower temperature, and the sooner the more stearoptene
it contains. Good oil should become solid at from 57.2
to 60.8 F. It has a specific gravity of 0.980 to 0.995
at 59 F. The specific gravity varies with the content
94 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
of stearoptene; the greater the latter the higher the
specific gravity. Good anise-seed oil contains 5 to 10 per
cent, of terpene and 90 to 95 per cent, of a stearoptene,
called anethol, C 10 H 12 O, on which the value of the oil
depends. The anethol can be separated from the oil by
cooling to 32 F., and forms colorless crystals. It has
an agreeable odor and intensely sweet taste, is sparingly
soluble in water, but readily in alcohol, ether, and other
solvents of volatile oils. Good anethol has a specific
gravity of 0.986, and melts at 69 to 70 F. By fre-
quent contact with the air a small portion of the anethol
is oxidized, very likely to anisaldehyde. By this pro-
cess the specific gravity is raised and the melting point
lowered.
Anise-seed oil is soluble in 5 parts of 90 per cent,
alcohol, and with 3J times its volume of petroleum-
ether yields a clear mixture. Its mixture with four
times its weight of petroleum-ether is turbid, but be-
comes clear in ten minutes, while that with five times
its volume of petroleum -ether remains for a longer time
turbid. In a fluid state the oil, when exposed to the
air, becomes resinous and loses its property to crystal-
lize. It should, therefore, be kept in tightly-closed
bottles in a cool, shady place.
Anise-seed oil is used in perfuming soaps and mouth
waters. It should, however, be used with prudence,
since the sweetish, penetrating odor of the oil readily
overcomes the other volatile oils in the mixture, and ren-
ders them inoperative.
Star anise oil very much resembles the ordinary anise-
seed oil. It is obtained from star anise, the fruit of
Illicium anisatum, a tree formerly supposed to be indige-
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 95
nous to Cochin China, and cultivated in China, Japan,
and the Phillipine Islands. However, according to
Messrs. Bourgeoin-Meiifre, a French firm of Hanoi
(Tonkin), the star anise oil found in commerce is exclu-
sively produced in the French colony Tonkin (Province
Langson), the French government having made over the
entire sale of the oil to the above-mentioned firm.
According to a memoir published by Dr. Blondel, of
Paris, the star anise tree is not indigenous to the Chinese
provinces Yunnan, Quang-si, and Fo-Rien, but to the
province Langson, which has by conquest passed into
French possession. Hence, the producers of star anise
and star anise oil are now under French control and, as
it seems, are obliged to sell all the oil produced to the
above-mentioned firm. If these statements should
prove correct, the Chinese harbors Macao and Hong
Kong, from which the greater portion of star anise oil
was formerly exported, will lose their importance in this
respect and the product find its way direct from Hanoi
via Hayphong to Marseilles. The first shipment from
Bourgeoin-Meiffre arrived in Europe in December, 1890.
According to Messrs. Schimmel & Co.'s report, the pro-
duct is put up and packed exactly like that formerly
shipped from Hong Kong, and the oil of excellent quality.
Star anise oil differs from the ordinary oil in con-
taining a much smaller quantity of anethol, and hence
congealing only at a temperature of from 41 to 50 F.
Besides the odor of the terpene contained in star anise
oil differs from that of the ordinary oil. Admixtures ot
star anise oil can, therefore, be generally recognized by
the odor. Other methods recommended for its detec-
tion are unreliable.
96 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Balm oil. The leaves of this plant, Melissa offieinalis,
yield by distillation a volatile oil sometimes called oil of
melissa. It is colorless or yellowish, of a pleasant odor,
has a specific gravity of 0.85 to 0.92, shows a slightly
acid reaction and dissolves in 2 to 3 parts of alcohol.
It must not be confounded with the so-called East
India oil of melissa or citronella oil from Andropogon
Nardus L. Balm oil is occasionally used in the prepa-
ration of eau de Cologne.
Basil oil is distilled in Southern France from the fresh
leaves of Ocymum basilicum L., natural order Labiatce.
The oil shows the peculiar odor of the herb and crys-
tallizes a few degrees above 32 F. In perfumery it is
used as an addition to violet and other preparations.
The French also prepare a pommade basilique, which
serves as a cheap substitute for violet pomade.
Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves, is extracted by dis-
tillation from the leaves of Myrcia. acris or the bay-
berry tree. Many varieties of the tree exist throughout
the West Indies, which are scarcely to be distinguished
botanically, but have quite a different odor from that of
the genuine tree. Great care must, therefore, be taken
in the collection of the leaves which are to be used, as
the admixture of a small quantity of the other leaves
may entirely spoil the product of distillation. Two oils
are obtained, a light oil of specific gravity of 0.870 to
0.990, and a heavy oil with specific gravity 1.023 to
1.037. When first distilled the oil is colorless, but by
exposure to the air quickly acquires a yellowish tint and,
if the exposure be continued, becomes quite dark in color.
The odor of the freshly-distilled oil is rank, but in the
course of from three to six months it becomes mellow,
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 97
and ripens into the agreeable fragrance so much liked in
the best specimens of bay-rum. The oil is soluble in
all proportions in 95 per cent, alcohol, also in ether and
petroleum benzine. Its chief use is for the preparation
of bay-rum.
Bergamot oil is obtained from the rinds of the fruit of
citrus bergamia, a tree belonging to the natural order
Aurantiacece. The rind is grated and the oil running
off separated from the aqueous fluid and cellular sub-
stance by means of a separating funnel, or the grated
mass is distilled in a current of carbonic acid. The oil
is very fluid and pale yellow, but poorer qualities are fre-
' quently greenish or brownish. When distilled with
water it becomes perfectly colorless, but is less durable.
Its odor is very pleasant, somewhat like a mixture of
orange and lemon oils. Its specific gravity is 0.87 to
0.89. By standing for some time, the oil separates
white crystalline scales (stearoptene), which melt at 223
F. The oil becomes solid a few degrees below the freez-
ing point. The Messina oil of bergamot is considered
the best. From other volatile oils of the orange family,
bergamot oil differs in dissolving readily in caustic pot-
ash, forming a clear solution. It has, however, the same
property as other oils of a similar origin, of igniting
with iodine and not dissolving santalin, the red resinous
coloring matter of santal-wood.
Bergamot oil may be tested as to its purity by mixing
it with alcohol. It becomes pale gray-yellow, forms a
sediment which adheres firmly to the vessel and, on
shaking, floats about in the form of flakes. After two
days the sediment is inconsiderable and difficult to
divide into flakes in the clear yellow fluid by shaking.
7
98 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
The oil is frequently adulterated with alcohol. To
detect such adulteration, Righini recommends the follow-
ing method : Mix 15 parts of the oil with a like quan-
tity of pure olive oil or oil of sweet almonds. If
alcohol is present, it immediately separates, like water,
from the fat oil ; if no separation takes place the oil is
not adulterated with alcohol. The tannin test also gives
reliable results. In storing oil of bergamot great care
must be exercised to exclude air and light, as it is one
of the most changeable oils and soon acquires an odor
resembling that of turpentine.
Large quantities of oil of bergamot are used in per-
fumery. It forms, so to say, the basis for most of the '
finer products. In Cologne water it forms the principal
constituent in the mixture of volatile oils.
Cqjeput oil (oleum cajeputi). This oil is obtained by
distillation from the leaves of several species of Melaleucce,
natural order Caryophyllacece, indigenous to the East
Indies, Banda, and Malabar. The ordinary oil has a
greenish color and possesses a strong odor of camphor
and a pungent taste. It is chiefly imported by way of
Amsterdam, where it is partially discolored by rectifi-
cation, so that two kinds, the white and green cajeput
oil, are brought into commerce. The color of the latter
is generally supposed to be due to a resinous substance
containing chlorophyl, though others assert that it origi-
nates from the copper of the distilling apparatus and the
copper flasks in which it is dispatched. The specific
gravity of the oil varies between 0.910 and 0.940,
though specifically lighter and heavier oils are said to
occur.
It is claimed that an artificial cajeput oil is often pre-
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 99
pared from camphor and rosemary oil, the green color
being obtained by distillation with milfoil. The
presence of camphor may be readily determined by
thoroughly triturating a few drops of the oil with sugar
and then dissolving in water, whereby the particles of
camphor separate in the form of white flakes upon the
surface.
Cajeput oil is frequently adulterated with oil of tur-
pentine and rosemary oil. Such adulteration is recog-
nized by pure cajeput oil dissolving clear in equal parts
of 90 per cent, alcohol, which is not the case with the
other two oils.
Camomile or chamomile oil (oleum anthemidis). Two
varieties of oil of camomile are found in commerce, one
green and the other blue. The first is derived from the
flowers of the genuine or Roman camomile (Anthemis
nobilis) and the blue from the common variety (^Matri-
caria chamomila). The last oil is the one chiefly used
in the manufacture of perfumery and in medicine.
Bluv camomile oil is generally obtained by distillation.
In distilling, metal Florentine flasks should be used, as
the oil adheres tenaciously to glass vessels and the distil-
late has to be treated with ether. The pure oil has a
beautiful blue color, and on heating forms blue vapors.
It has a penetrating odor which only by strong dilution
becomes similar to that of camomile. By storing in
the light and the simultaneous presence of air, the oil
turns green ; later on, brown, and is finally converted
into a thickly-fluid, brownish mass.
Green camomile oil from the genuine or Roman camo-
mile possesses an agreeable odor of fresh lemons ; it is
more seldom used than the other.
100 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
On account of the slight yield obtained from the
flowers, camomile oil is rather expensive.
Caraway oil (oleum carui) is obtained by distillation
from the seeds of the well-known aromatic plant Carum
carui, or the caraway, natural order Umbelliferce. In a
fresh, purified state the oil is colorless, very thinly-fluid
and possesses a pungent taste. The oil prepared from
cleansed Dutch seed is best liked, while that distilled
from Norwegian or Tyrolese seed is not much in demand,
its taste and odor not being so pure on account of the
many impurities mixed with these kinds of seed.
Caraway oil consists mainly of a terpene, C, H 16 ,
called carvene, specific gravity 0.870, and of carvol, spe-
cific gravity 0.960. The richer the oil in carvol, the
higher its specific gravity. Good caraway oil should
have a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.910. The carvol
being the actual bearer of the aroma, the value of the
oil exclusively depends on the content of it. In the
better varieties of oil, the content of carvol amounts to
from 45 to 50 per cent., while poorer qualities generally
contain only from 40 to 42 per cent. The carvol and
carvene are now frequently separated by fractional dis-
tillation. The carvol, which has three times as strong
an odor and taste as the carvene, dissolves with much
greater facility in alcohol. The carvene being offered
at very low prices might be suitable for perfuming cheap
soaps.
Caraway oil obtained by distillation from the plant
has a less agreeable odor than that from the seed, and
possesses an acrid resinous taste.
The purity of caraway oil is recognized by its dissolv-
ing clear in equal parts of 90 per cent, alcohol. If such
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 101
is not the case, the oil contains either an admixture of
oil of turpentine or does not possess the full normal
content of carvol. Pure caraway oil does not detonate
with iodine, which is the case with oil containing oil of
turpentine.
Caraway oil is chiefly used for perfuming soap ; for
handkerchief perfumes it is not suitable.
Cedar oil (oleum cedri) is obtained by distillation from
the shavings of the wood of the American or Virginia
cedar (Juniperus virginiana). For the distillation of oil
the waste falling off in the manufacture of lead-pencils
is almost exclusively used. It yields about 2 to 3 per
cent, of oil. The oil is thinly-fluid, of specific gravity
0.9622, of a greenish color, and an agreeable but not
very penetrating odor. It is a mixture of a terpene,
boiling at about 540 F., and of a hydrocarbon. The
latter, which is called cidrin, forms the fluid portion of
the oil. It has a specific gravity of 0.984, and boils
at about 459 F.
Cedar oil is extensively used in the manufacture of
toilet soap, it serving as the basis for other perfumes.
Care must, however, be taken that its odor does not
preponderate, as in such case it readily produces an un-
pleasant effect. The oil being cheap, adulteration is
scarcely to be feared.
A volatile oil is also obtained by distillation from the
leaves of the Juniperus virginiana. In odor it resembles
savin oil, and is unfit for perfuming purposes.
Cherry-laurel oil (oleum laurocerasi) is the volatile oil,
which contains prussic acid, obtained from the leaves of
the cherry-laurel (Prunus laurocemsus, L.). Like bitter
almonds, the leaves contain some amygdalin. Hence
102 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
they are macerated with water and allowed to stand in
a warm place for 24 hours. By subsequent distillation
a volatile oil is obtained which closely resembles oil of
bitter almonds, but differs in some respects. It is color-
less or yellowish, rarely reddish, and of specific gravity
1.05 to 1.06. In its behavior towards air, solvents, and
reagents, it does not essentially differ from oil of bitter
almonds.*
To detect oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil, Enrico
Pega adds some alcohol to the oil to be tested and then
mixes it with some alcoholic potash lye and a few drops
of ferric chloride solution. After standing for a few
hours the mixture is shaken and distilled. A small
portion of the oil distilling over is freed from water,
poured upon a few small pieces of pure caustic potash
in a test-tube, and heated over a lamp. If the sample
is pure it remains colorless ; in the presence of oil of
mirbane it acquires a dark coloration in consequence of
the formation of nitrobenzide and aniline, a few drops
of calcium chloride solution brought into the mixture
producing, for this reason, a violet coloration.
Cherry laurel oil is but seldom used for perfuming
purposes.
Cinnamon oils. There are four different kinds of this
oil, viz., Ceylon cinnamon oil, cassia oil, cinnamon root
oil, and oil of cinnamon leaves. Though the first two
are very much alike, the Ceylon oil is considered the
best.
Ceylon cinnamon oil (oleum cinnamoni ceylonici).
Formerly this oil was exclusively distilled from chips
* Compare Kremel's observations, p. 91.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PEEFUMERY. 103
and waste of the genuine cinnamon bark of the
monum ceylonicum, Nees, and came into commerce from
Ceylon. However, the fabrication of the oil from cin-
namon waste or chips is now extensively carried on in
Germany, and this oil, being prepared with the assist-
ance of more perfect apparatus, has almost entirely sup-
planted that exported from Ceylon.
When fresh, the Ceylon oil is colorless, but when
stored for some time it becomes first golden yellow and
later on brownish. It is thickly-fluid and heavier than
water, its specific gravity being 1.060 to 1.090. It has
an agreeable, aromatic odor and a biting but pure, sweet
taste. Its principal constituent is cinnamaldehyde
(C 9 H 8 O), and it contains, besides, 4 to 8 per cent, of
eugenol. The presence of the latter in cinnamon oil
may be established by shaking with 15 per cent, soda-
solution, whereby the eugenol is dissolved, and decom-
posing the aqueous solution with hydrochloric acid.
The eugenol separated thereby gives in alcoholic solu-
tion, when compounded with a trace of ferric chloride,
a beautiful blue color.
Cassia oil (oleum cassice). In China and Cochin China
this oil is obtained by distillation from the bark, unripe
fruits, buds, and other waste of the Cinnamonum cassia
or Cinnamonum aromativum, Nees, a tree indigenous to
those countries. It has a pale yellow color, which in
time becomes brown. It is thickly-fluid, of specific
gravity 1.05 to 1.07, and possesses a sweet taste with
an acrid after-taste. Like cinnamon oil, it consists
chiefly of cinnamaldehyde, but contains no eugenol, and
hence can be readily distinguished from Ceylon oil by
104 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
the above-mentioned reaction. One part of pure cassia
oil dissolves in two parts of 80 per cent, alcohol.
Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves. Neither
of these oils contains cinuamaldehyde, but abundant
quantities of eugenol, the root oil as much as 50 to 70
per cent. The root oil is quite limpid and has an
agreeable odor of cinnamon and cloves. The leaf oil
is thickly-fluid, of the consistency of castor oil.
The Ceylon oil is frequently adulterated with cassia
oil. Such adulteration is very difficult to detect, and
can only be recognized by experts by the odor and taste.
The quality of cassia oil is recognized by the taste and
odor, especially on heating, and the high specific gravity,
in consequence of which the oil sinks in water. Accord-
ing to Hager, cassia oil is frequently adulterated with
oil of cloves. This is, however, scarcely probable, the
price of oil of cloves being, on an average, higher than
that of cassia oil. The latter, however, is frequently
adulterated with cheaper thickly-fluid volatile oils, es-
pecially with cedar oil. In this case the oil does not
dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol.
The value of cassia oil is dependent on its contents
of cinnamaldehyde. Hence, the establishment of its
actual value requires a quantitative determination of its
contents of cinnamaldehyde, which unfortunately pre-
sents great difficulties. For this purpose Schimmel &
Co. proceed indirectly as follows : 75 grammes of cassia
oil in a capacious boiling flask are mixed with 300
grammes of a boiling-hot 30 per cent, solution of acid
sodium sulphite, whereby cinnamaldehyde-sodium sul-
phite is immediately separated. The whole is then
vigorously agitated and alloNved to rest for a short time.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 105
(With oils rich in aldehyde considerable heating gener-
ally takes place, which must eventually be moderated
by the addition of cold water.) Next add about 200
grammes of hot water and heat the whole, with frequent
shaking, in the water-bath until the combination of the
aldehyde with the acid-sodium sulphite is completely
dissolved, and the non-aldehydes in the form of an oily
layer float upon the solution of the aldehyde salt. Now
allow the whole to cool, then shake twice with ether ;
first, with about 200 cubic centimeters, and then with
100 ; combine the ethereal extracts of the non-aldehydes
separated by means of a separatory funnel, and filter
them into a capacious, previously-weighed beaker pro-
vided with a platinum wire, the lower end of which is
bent in the form of a spiral. Now evaporate the ether
as much as possible, by placing the beaker in hot water.
When by swinging the beaker the remaining fluid no
longer foams up, allow to cool off and weigh. Now
return the beaker-glass to the water-bath for ten minutes,
weigh again after cooling, and repeat the operation
until the difference between two weighings does not
amount to more than 0.3 gramme at the utmost. The
weighing previous to the last is taken as the correct one.*
The weight of the non-aldehydes thus obtained is
deducted from the cassia oil used, the difference giving
the content of cinnamaldehyde in the latter.
* The manner of expelling the ether is of great influence upon
the accuracy of the result. Though the non-aldehydes volatilize
with difficulty, they are volatile, and hence the ether must be
quickly expelled, and the beaker not allowed to stand longer upon
the water-bath than necessary for the evaporation of the ether.
106 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
For example :
Used 79.71 grammes of oil.
First weighing of the beaker after evaporating the ether 147.55 grammes
Second " " " " " " 146.84
Third " " " " " " 146.58 "
Tare of the beaker .... 128.34 "
Hence non-aldehydes in the oil . . 146.84 grammes.
. 128.34
= 18.50 grammes.
Calculated to per cent., 23.1 per cent.
100 23.1 = 76.9 per cent, cinnamaldehyde.
By accurately following the directions given, the dif-
ference between two controlling determinations will be
only a few tenths per cent., seldom as much as 1 per
cent. For practical purposes, for which alone this
method is intended, this is more than sufficient.
According to the reports of Schimmel & Co., all the
cassia oil brought into commerce from China was for a
considerable time adulterated with resin and petroleum,
they haying found as much as 30 per cent, of resin in
the oil. Such adulteration can be established by the
determination of the specific gravity and distilling the
oil. Good cassia oil should show a specific gravity of
1.05 to 1.07 at 59 F., and by distillation 90 per cent,
of pure cassia oil must pass over. The residue should
not solidify after cooling and acquire the character of a
brittle resin ; it must remain at least thickly-fluid, and
under no conditions amount to more than 10 per cent.
Citron oil (oleum citri), from the peel of the fruit of
Citrus medica or the citron tree. The oil is prepared in
a similar manner to that of oil of bergamot, either by
expression or distillation, the latter process yielding more
and purer oil.
Rectified citron oil is colorless, of an agreeable pene-
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 107
trating odor and acrid taste, and very sensitive to light
and air. By exposure to light it turns yellow, and if air
be admitted at the same time, it is first converted into
a fluid which, on account of its content of ozone, pos-
sesses strong bleaching powers. The oil at the same
time acquires a disagreeable odor, resembling that of
oil of turpentine, and is finally converted into a resinous
mass.
Citron oil is frequently adulterated with oil of orange
and sometimes with oil of bergamot. These adultera-
tions are readily detected by an experienced person by
the odor, this being in fact the best guide. The spe-
cific gravity of citron oil is 0.850 at 59 F. ; it boils at
from 332.6 to 343.4 F. and congeals at 4 F.
Citronella oil (oleum citronellce) is chiefly distilled in
Ceylon from the lemon grass, 'Andropogon Nardus, L.
It is quite limpid, of a greenish-yellow to brown color,
and has an odor resembling that of genuine citron oil.
Its specific gravity is 0.896 at 59 F., and it boils at
from 392 to 410 F. Of the various oils reaching the
market that with the trade-mark " Fisher" is most
in demand, it being distinguished by special purity.
Edward Kremers has found in citronella oil an alde-
hyde, C 7 H ]4 O, a terpene, C 10 H 16 , citronellol, which is
isomeric with borneol ; further, acetic acid and valerianic
acid.
The Indian distillers, it is claimed, adulterate the
citrouella oil with petroleum, an addition up to 25 per
cent, being not uncommon.
According to experiments by Schimmel & Co., pure
citronella oil must give a clear solution, when 1 part
of the oil is vigorously shaken with 10 parts of 80 per
108 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
cent, alcohol. If, in executing the test, the kind of tur-
bidity is observed, and whether the portion insoluble
in alcohol separates, after standing, upon the surface or
on the bottom of the fluid, and further, if the above-
mentioned quantity of alcohol is not added at one time,
but at first only 1 or 2 parts of it, a conclusion may be
drawn as to the kind and quantity of the adulterant.
Petroleum causes a milky-white turbidity, while in
the presence of fat oil the mixture becomes turbid, but
not actually milky. As a rule, fat oil deposits, after
standing, on the bottom, while petroleum floats upon
the surface of the fluid. Citronella oil adulterated with
fat oil does not dissolve in 1 to 2 parts nor in 10 parts
of 80 per cent, alcohol, while oil adulterated with not
too large a quantity of petroleum, gives a clear solution
with 1 to 2 parts. The determination of the specific
gravity may also serve for the detection of adulterations.
This holds good, however, only for petroleum, which
reduces the specific gravity, an addition of fat oil pro-
ducing no deviation in this respect. The specific gravity
of the oil should not be below 0.895 at 59 F.
Citronella oil is much used for perfuming cheap hair
oils and toilet soaps ; it is the chief constituent of all
perfumes for honey-soaps. In the American soap in-
dustry it is extensively used, the yearly consumption
being estimated at 1J million ounces.
Cloves, oil of (oleum caryophylli), is obtained by dis-
tillation with steam, or by extraction from the cloves of
commerce, which are the dried unexpanded flower buds
of Caryophyllus aromaticus, L., or the clove tree. Oil
of cloves, when fresh, is almost colorless, but on expo-
sure to air acquires a brownish coloration and a thickly
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 109
fluid consistency. It has the aromatic taste and odor of
cloves, and a specific gravity of 1.300 to 1.065. It fre-
quently shows a slightly acid reaction, boils at 482 F.,
and congeals at 4 F. It is readily soluble in alcohol,
ether, and strong acetic acid. It consists of a terpene
(C IO H 16 ) and eugenol (C 10 H 12 O 2 ), the odor of the oil
being due to the latter. The terpene has a specific
gravity of 0.918, and in distilling passes over first (light
oil of cloves). The eugenol, when fresh, is colorless,
has the odor and taste of cloves, a specific gravity of
1.063 at 65 F., boils at 487.4 F., is insoluble in water
and glycerin, but soluble in alcohol, ether and glacial
acetic acid. Its alcoholic solution is colored magnifi-
cently blue by ferric chloride. If in an alkaline solution
it is oxydized with potassium permanganate, vanillin
being formed.
An inferior quality of oil is obtained from the stems
of the clove buds. It dissolves with greater difficulty
than the oil prepared from the buds, and has a darker
red-brown color.
To test the value of oil of cloves, introduce, according
to Stohman, into a graduated glass cylinder 10 volumes
ether, 10 oil of cloves, and 30 of a 10-per cent, soda
solution. After vigorous shaking, the eugenol dissolves ;
the increase in volume of the aqueous fluid is then pro-
portional to the quantity of eugenol present. For more
exact determinations, dissolve a weighed quantity of
oil, repeatedly shake the aqueous fluid with ether to re-
move the terpene, then decompose the eugenol-sodium
with dilute sulphuric acid, dissolve the separated eugenol
in ether and weigh after evaporating the ethereal fluid.
110 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Good oil of cloves does not contain less than 80 per
cent, of eugenol, and frequently 90 per cent, or more.
Oil of cloves is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil
and cedar oil. Such adulteration is recognized by the
oil not forming a clear solution in every proportion with
alcohol, as is the case with pure oil of cloves.
Oil of cloves is much used for perfuming purposes.
Eucalyptus oil (oleum eucalypti) is obtained from the
leaves of various trees of the eucalyptus family. Ac-
cording to Merk two kinds of oil must be strictly kept
apart : oleum eucalypti from the leaves of eucalyptus
globulus and oleum eucalypti australe, the former being
used in medicine, and the latter, which is considerably
cheaper, chiefly for perfuming purposes. However,
Piesse's opinion that eucalyptus oil, as far as its odor is
concerned, does not deserve to be classed among per-
fumes is undoubtedly correct. It has an odor between
that of oil of turpentine and cajeput oil, and as long as
perfumery is the art of sweet odors, such oil cannot be
designated a perfume.
When not rectified, eucalyptus oil is mostly yellowish
or bluish. In a rectified state it is colorless, clear,
limpid, lighter than water, of a strong odor, and acrid
taste. The oil from eucalyptus globulus has a specific
gravity of 0.900 to 0.925, and dissolves in every pro-
portion in 90 per cent, alcohol. It is optically inactive
or turns the plane of polarization slightly to the right.
On standing with sodium it acquires a yellowish colora-
tion, and does not detonate with iodine. The oil from
eucalyptus australe has a specific gravity of 0.86 to 0.87,
and is but sparingly soluble in 90 per cent, alcohol, so
that even a solution prepared in the proportion of 1 : 15
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. Ill
is turbid. It turns the plane of polarization strongly to
the left ; acquires, on standing with sodium, a red colora-
tion, and detonates with iodine.
Eucalyptus oil consists of eucalyptol and eucalyptene,
and perhaps other hydrocarbons. The content of the
first, on which depends the medicinal value of the oil,
varies very much in the oils from the different species
of eucalyptus, the oil from some species, it is said, con-
taining no eucalyptol whatever.
Eucalyptol (C 24 H 20 O 2 ) is limpid, colorless, turns the
plane of polarization, has a specific gravity of 0.905,
and boils at 347 F. Its vapor mixed with air has an
agreeable, refreshing taste, and its dilute solutions re-
mind one of roses. Eucalyptene (C 24 H 18 ) has a specific
gravity of 0.836, and boils at 329 F.
Fennel oil (oleum fceniculi) is derived by distillation
from the fruits of Foeniculum vulgare, Gaertner. Large
quantities of it are produced in Saxony, and also
in Galicea. It is quite colorless, limpid, of specific
gravity 0.940 to 0.970 and, with a full content of stear-
optene, possesses a nauseous sweet taste and odor. It
contains 60 to 70 per cent, of anethol and congeals at
from 41 to 50 F. to a crystalline mass. The leaves
of the plant also contain a volatile oil, which is, how-
ever, less valued than the seed-oil.
Good fennel oil should dissolve clear in 1 to 2 parts
of 90 per cent, alcohol. Direct adulterations of this
oil do not occur, but the stearoptene is frequently with-
drawn by fractional distillation whereby the oil loses
much in value. Such oil freed from stearoptene does
not congeal, has a more bitter than sweet taste and does
not dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol.
112 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
In perfumery fennel oil is but little used ; sometimes
in connection with other volatile oils for perfuming
soaps.
Geranium oil, palmaroso oil, Turkish geranium oil is
obtained from Andropogon Pachnodes. It is yellowish,
limpid, of specific gravity 0.890 at 59 F v possesses a
very agreeable rose-like odor resembling that of ge-
ranium oils from Pelargonium radula, Alton, and for
this reason is generally designated as Turkish geranium
oil. The odor of the oil is improved by shaking it with
water containing lemon juice, any content of copper
being thereby removed. The washed oil is then brought
into shallow dishes and exposed for two or three weeks
to the sun, whereby its odor becomes still more like that
of rose oil. The oil thus prepared is much used for
adulterating rose oil. Turkish geranium oil is also
much used for the adulteration of genuine geranium oil
and is itself adulterated with oil of turpentine. It is
extensively employed in perfumery, especially for per-
fuming hair oils and pomades, and in conjunction with
geranium oils for rose soap.
East Indian geranium oil is obtained, chiefly in the
Presidency of Bombay, from Andropogon Schoenantus,
L. It is greenish-yellow to yellow-brown, has a spe-
cific gravity of 0.906 at 59 F., and consists mainly of
geraniol (C 10 H 18 O). Its odor is rose-like, though modi-
fied by a lemon-like odor. It is principally used for
perfuming cheaper articles.
French and African geranium oils (oleum geranii) are
obtained by distillation with water from the leaves of
various species of pelargonium. Many different kinds
of this oil are found in commerce. The finest and most
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 113
expensive are the Spanish and French geranium oils, so-
called rose, which are distinguished by their fine odor,
closely resembling that of rose oil. They are derived
from Pelargonium radula, and are either yellowish,
brownish, or pale green, the brownish oils being pre-
ferred. It congeals at 60.8 F. and turns the plane of
polarization to the right. Another good geranium oil is
the African, which is chiefly prepared in Algiers from
Pelargonium roseum } Wildenow, and P. odoratissimum,
Alton. It closely resembles the French oil, but turns
the plane of polarization to the left.
French geranium oil is said to be frequently adulte-
rated with fat or copaiba oil ; but geranium oil being
soluble in 70 per cent, alcohol, such adulterations are
readily detected. Add to 5 cubic centimeters of 70 per
cent, alcohol (specific gravity 0.890) at 59 to 62.5 F.,
10 drops of the oil, and shake. If a clear solution re-
sults the oil is very likely unadulterated.
The so-called Turkish geranium oil is frequently
found mixed with cocoanut oil. To detect this, place
the oil in a test-tube in ice or a cold mixture for several
hours, whereby the cocoanut oil separates as a white
substance. Adulterations of upward to 20 per cent, are
said to frequently occur.
Reliable tests to detect an adulteration of the better
qualities of geranium oil with those of a lower grade
do not exist, the odor being the only guide.
Jasmine oil or oil of jessamine, from the flowers of
Jasminium offitinale, L., and J. grandiflorum. The oil
is exclusively obtained by the absorption process, and
is the most prized by the perfumer. It is, however, ex-
ceedingly rare on account of the enormous cost of its
114 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
production. The extract of jasmine, the " essence de jas-
mine' 7 of the French manufactories, is a solution of the
oil, as obtained by extraction with lard or beef suet, in
strong spirit of wine. The odor of jasmine oil is so
peculiar that it is without comparison, and as such
cannot be imitated.
Juniper oil (oleum juniperi) is obtained by distillation
from the fruits of Juniperus communis, L., or juniper.
The berries used for the purpose should be fully grown
and fresh and bruised before being placed in the still.
Unripe berries yield a smaller quantity and an oil of
somewhat different properties than ripe berries. The
oil obtained by distillation with steam is colorless and
that by ordinary distillation yellowish, the former hav-
ing a specific gravity of 0.840 to 0.860 and the latter
of 0.850 to 0.900. It consists mainly of terpenes. By
standing, a stearoptene is separated, which crystallizes in
feathery needles from hot spirit of wine. The odor and
taste of juniper oil remind one at the same time of juniper
berries and oil of turpentine.
Juniper oil has a great tendency to thicken ; it be-
comes resinous, acid and thickly fluid, formic acid being
formed. It should be kept in well-closed bottles, and
protected from light. It is frequently adulterated with
oil of turpentine and juniper- wood oil. It may be tested
by its behavior towards alcohol, as well as by the taste.
A drop of the oil rubbed up with sugar, and shaken
with 500 grammes of water, should not impart an acrid
taste to the water. Juniper oil gives a clear solution
with J part absolute alcohol ; by a larger quantity it is
rendered turbid.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 115
Lavender oil (oleum lavandulce.) Large quantities of
this oil are distilled in Southern France, in the neigh-
borhood of Grasse and Nimes, from the flowers of
lavandula officinalis, Chaixj which grows wild in that
region. It is limpid, colorless, or yellowish, has a strong
odor and a pungent, aromatic, somewhat bitter taste.
With 90 per cent, alcohol it mixes clear in every pro-
portion, boils at 320 F., and has a specific gravity of
0.876 to 0.905. It turns the plane of polarization to
the left.
The best French lavender oil, distilled from pure
flowers only, is brought into commerce under the name,
" Essence de Lavande Montblanc." It is distinguished
from all other kinds, in the preparation of which more
or less stems and leaves are used, by its extremely agree-
able odor.
Lavender is also extensively cultivated in Mitchan
and Hitchin, England, and used for the preparation
of an especially fine oil, the odor of which surpasses
even that of the best French product. It is, however,
comparatively expensive.
From the leaves and flowers of lavandula spica the
spike oil is obtained by distillation. It is colorless, or
yellow, and in odor approaches rosemary oil more than
lavender oil. Its boiling point, like that of lavender
oil, is at 366.8 F., and its specific gravity 0.96. Spike
oil turns the plane of polarization only slightly to the
left, the deviation scarcely ever exceeding 0.8.
Lavender oils are very sensitive to light and air, they
becoming ozonized under their influence, and acquire an
odor like turpentine. Hence they must be kept in well-
closed vessels in a dark place.
116 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Oil of lavender is frequently adulterated, chiefly with
alcohol, fat oils, oil of turpentine, and spike oil. To
test the oil, mix a drop of it with 10 cubic centimeters
of warm water, and test the odor, which should be pure
and agreeably lavender-like. The taste of the vigorously
agitated water should be transiently bitter aromatic.
One volume of the oil should give a turbid mixture
with one volume of dilute alcohol (specific gravity
0.895), but a perfectly clear one with three volumes.
On shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with a few
grains of rosaniline it remains uncolored, but, in the
presence of even a trace of alcohol, it acquires a red
coloration. By mixing in a graduated cylinder equal
volumes of the oil and distilled water, and shaking
vigorously, the oil, after the water has settled, shows a
decrease in volume if alcohol be present. The presence
of fat oil can be readily recognized by bringing a drop
of the oil to be tested upon filtering paper ; a grease
stain is formed, which disappears neither at the ordi-
nary temperature nor by heating. Adulteration with
oil of turpentine is recognized by the boiling point, that
of oil of turpentine being 312.8 F., and that of oil of
lavender, as previously stated, 366.8 F.
Spike oil should mix clear with equal parts of 90 per
cent, alcohol ; the contrary would indicate adulteration
with oil of turpentine.
For perfumery, lavender oil is of great importance,
it being much employed by itself, as well as mixed with
other oils.
Lemon oil (oleum limonis) is obtained by various pro-
cesses from the rinds of lemons. The best and most
delicately-scented oil is obtained by the so-called sponge
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 117
process in use in Southern Italy and Sicily. The rinds
are soaked from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in water,
to which sometimes a little soda is added. They are
taken up singly in the right hand and the outer surface
of each is firmly pressed against a large and rather
hard-grained sponge held in the left hand and secured
by a strap. Two or three sharp turns of the wrist im-
part what may be called a screw-pressure to the rind,
thus effectually fracturing the oil cells, the sponge ab-
sorbing the contents. The sponge is constantly held
over an earthen jar and occasionally squeezed into it.
The fluid in the jar quickly separates into three different
products the dregs or deposit of mucilaginous and
cellular matter, some fruit juice, and the pure oil, which
floats on the top. The latter, when bright and clear, is
passed, by means of a small glass siphon, into the cans
of thin copper, in which, after sealing, it is stored
away for export.
The above described primitive mode of fabrication
furnishes the most highly prized oils of commerce ; they
are called hand-pressed oils or essences preparees a
Veponge. In the same manner are obtained the oils from
the sweet and bitter pomegranate, the bergamotte, and
mandarin orange.
Another method of expressing the oil is that of the
ccuelle a piquer, much used in the region about Nice.
The oils obtained by this method, which are also of a
very fine quality, are marked essence a Vecuelle or au
zeste. The apparatus consists of a round shallow pan
of copper or brass, having a receptacle for the oil at its
lowest part and a lip on one side for pouring, and
studded on its concavity by strong blunt spiker. The
118 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
workman takes the fruit and rolls it gently but quickly
around the inside of the ecuelle ; the spikes prick the
oil sacs, whereupon the oil, running down the spikes and
the concavity of the pan, collects in the reservoir at the
lowest part. The oil is filtered and then poured into
clean glass bottles, in which the impurities are allowed
to settle.
In Reggio, where especially much bergamot oil is
manufactured, sheet-metal bowl-like vessels, studded
inside with sharp ribs, are used. Six to eight fruits are
placed in the vessel. A movable lid closes the vessel,
so that there is just enough space for the fruits between
the lid and the bottom of the vessel. If now the lid be
revolved by hand- or steam-power, the rinds of the fruit
are torn apart, and the oil together with the juice runs
through the sieve-bottom of the apparatus into a cylin-
drical vessel where it clarifies.
The third method of obtaining the oil is by expression.
The grated rind is placed in hair mats, and subjected to
powerful pressure by means of a screw or lever press.
The process of distillation is carried on as follows :
The peels, which should be from select fruit, are sprinkled
with powdered salt, and a few hours afterwards sufficient
water to moisten them is poured over them. A day or
two afterwards more water is added, and the whole is
distilled until either no more oil separates or the steam,
at first purely fragrant, begins to acquire a rank and
rather unpleasant smell. The oil obtained by distilla-
tion is inferior to the others.
Lately a combination of the ecuelle and distilling pro-
cesses has been introduced by Doinenico Monfalcone,
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY.
119
which has given excellent results. It is shown in Fig.
20. F F is a hollow cylinder, of sheet-iron, the interior
surface of which is studded with a large number of
small metallic knife-points. This cylinder revolves on
FIG. 20.
two axles attached to it at diagonally opposite points.
The cylinder having been half-charged with lemons,
together with a small quantity of water, is set in motion
by aid of the shafting and pulleys driven by the small
steam engine. The fruits are thereby made to come in
contact with the metallic lancets, and their whole surface
gradually becomes punctured sufficiently to rupture the
cells containing the volatile oil, which escapes. The
cylinder jPjPhas double walls, the space between them
being intended for the circulation of a current of steam,
which is admitted to heat the water and to facilitate the
extraction of the oil, while at the same time the vapors are
rarefied or aspirated by the vacuum pump L. The
120 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
axles of the cylinder on both sides are hollow ; that on
the side looking towards the engine is imbedded in
such a manner that steam from the boiler D may be ad-
mitted at will, either into the double walls of the cylin-
der, or into the interior of the cylinder itself, while
the hollow passage in the other axle communicates with
a condensing worm, Gr, the outlet of which, H, descends
into a cylindrical vessel, J, intended to receive the con-
densed products, consisting of water and volatile oil.
"When the apparatus is first set in motion the pump L
begins to produce a vacuum during the first revolutions
of the cylinder. Steam being now cautiously admitted
into the double walls of the cylinder, the water is raised
to boiling at a comparatively low temperature, and the
vapors charged with the volatile oil pass over into the
receptacle, where they separate into two layers. The
product obtained by this process is claimed to be equal
in quality to that obtained by mechanical means, and
the yield nearly double.
During the months of November to March the average
yield from 1000 lemons in the factories of Palermo is
320 grammes of oil ; in those of Messina, where a better
quality of fruit is employed, the yield is about 400
grammes. The same number of lemons yield about
10 gallons of juice, the collection of which is, of course,
a necessary accompaniment of the manufacture of vola-
tile oil.
Pure oil of lemons is almost colorless and has the
odor of the fruit. Its specific gravity varies between
0.8752 and 0.8785 ; it boils at 298.4 F., and is soluble
in all proportions in absolute alcohol and glacial acetic
acid. It contains, according to G. Bouchardat and J.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 121
Lafont, besides a little cymene, several hydrocarbons, the
most abundant of which is citrene, C 10 H 16 , boiling near
352.5 F., having a rotatory power exceeding + 105,
and yielding a solid optically inactive dihydrochloride.
Oil of lemons is frequently adulterated with oil of tur-
pentine. This may be detected, according to G. Heppe,
by slowly heating the oil in a dry test-tube with a small
piece of copper butyrate to about 338 F., taking care
that the temperature does not exceed 356 F. The copper
salt will dissolve in pure oil of lemons with a green color,
while in the presence of oil of turpentine a yellow turbid
mixture is obtained, reddish-yellow cuprous oxide being
separated. This test is also applicable to oils of bergamot
and of orange-peel.
r? Lilac oil is obtained from the flowers of Syringa vul-
garis, the lilac, by aqueous distillation and subsequent
extraction with benzine. It is also frequently prepared
by the absorption process. It is used for the most ex-
pensive perfumes, and is seldom found in commerce.
Limes, oil of (oleum limettce), is derived from the rind
of the fruit of Citrus limetta, or lime. The oil is ob-
tained in the same manner as oil of lemons, which it
somewhat resembles. Its mean specific gravity is 0.8734
at 84 F. The oil made by the dcuelle process is of a
decidedly yellow color, varying in intensity, being darker
in the fresh product. The difference in flavor and aroma
is so marked as scarcely to require any other means of
distinguishing the oil made by the ecuelle process from
that obtained by distillation, the first having a decided
fragrant lemon smell, whilst the distilled oil is very in-
ferior, frequently possessing little more than the smell
of turpentine. Large quantities of oil of limes are
122 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
manufactured in Dominica, but most of the oil ex-
ported from there is of an inferior quality and was
formerly solely used for adulterating oil of lemons.
Lately it has also been employed for scenting soaps and
in the manufacture of the common essences and perfumes.
Licari oil, linaloe oil, is obtained, partially in Mexico
and partially in Cayenne, from the wood of the white
cedar (bois de rosefemelle), Lieari canali. It is limpid,
has an agreeable odor, reminding one of roses, and does
not become solid at 4 F. Its specific gravity is 0.868
at 59 F., and it boils at 388.4 F.
Marjoram oils. By distilling the leaves of Origanum
marjorana] L., the marjoram oil (oleum marjorance) is ob-
tained. It is yellowish or green-yellowish, but becomes
reddish-brown by age. If badly kept it finally becomes
thickly-fluid and sticky, sometimes depositing a reddish
stearoptene. The odor of marjoram oil is less agreeable
than that of the plant, and the taste peculiar, bitter,
cooling. The oil dissolves readily in 90 per cent,
alcohol, and when mixed with equal parts of it yields a
clear solution. Its specific gravity is 0.89 to 0.91. It
should be kept in entirely filled, well-closed bottles in a
shady place. On coming in contact with air, it absorbs
oxygen with avidity and forms a white, odorless, crystal-
line mass.
From Origanum vulgare, L., the ordinary marjoram
oil (oleum origani vulgaris) is obtained. It is yellowish
or reddish, limpid, of specific gravity 0.90 to 0.95, and
has a camphor-like odor.
Spanish marjoram (oleum origani cretici) is obtained
by distillation from the flowering plants of several
varieties of marjoram (Or. creticum, Or. hirtum, Or.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 123
smyrnceum). It is brought into commerce from Trieste,
Smyrna, Salonica, and other Mediterranean seaports.
The oil exported from France appears to be derived
from another variety of marjoram ; at least it shows a
different behavior and approaches more the ordinary
marjoram oil. The genuine oil is thickly-fluid, generally
yellow-brown ; of specific gravity 0.95 to 0.97 ; has a
strong, aromatic odor, and produces upon the tongue a
sharp continued burning. It dissolves in equal parts of
90 per cent, alcohol. It is chiefly adulterated with
copaiba oil, the presence of which can be recognized by
the oil dissolving with greater difficulty.
The marjoram oils are but little used for perfuming
purposes.
Mignonette oil (oleum resedoz). The well-known
mignonette, Reseda odoratissima, yields a thick yel-
lowish oil, either by maceration and absorption, or by
extraction with ether or petroleum-ether. It has a pene-
trating, disagreeable odor, which can only be rendered
agreeable by greatly diluting the oil. In gathering
the flowers care must be had not to mix them with
leaves, as this spoils the odor of the oil.
Myrrh oil (oleum myrthce) is obtained from the leaves
of Myrtus communis, L. It is yellowish, dextrorotatory,
of specific gravity 0.910 at 60.8 F., and commences to
boil at 320 F. As its principal constituents, Jahns
has established a terpene (C 10 H 16 ), boiling at from 316.4
to 320 F., and turning the plane of polarization to
the right, and cineol (C 10 H 16 O), which boils at 348.8
F. Besides these principal constituents there seems to
be present a very small quantity of a camphor, correspond-
ing very likely to the formula C 10 H 16 O. Myrtol, which
124 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
was formerly supposed to exist in myrtle oil, lias been
found to be a mixture of the dextrorotatory terpene and
of cineol.
Nutmeg oils. From mace, the fresh aril of the
nutmeg (Mynstioa fragrans, Houtt, natural order
Myristicacece), mace oil (oleum macidis), is obtained by
distillation. It is straw-yellow or yellowish, later on
yellow-reddish, clear, somewhat thickly-fluid, of a strong
odor resembling that of mace, and a taste at first mild,
but later on pungent and aromatic. It mixes clear in
every proportion with absolute alcohol, but of 90 per
cent, alcohol, 5 to 6 volumes are required for a clear
solution. The specific gravity of the oil varies from
0.87 to 0.92. With iodine it detonates, vapors being
emitted. The oil obtained from dried mace has a less
agreeable odor.
The oil is frequently adulterated with tincture of nut-
meg prepared with absolute alcohol. Such an adultera-
tion, as well as any content of alcohol, is recognized by
shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with a grain of
rosaniline. In the presence of alcohol the oil acquires
a red coloration, while pure oil remains uncolored.
From the nutmegs, the seed of Myristica fragrans,
freed from the seed-coat and aril, a volatile oil
(oleum nucistce cethereum) is also obtained by distillation.
It is generally yellowish, seldom colorless, somewhat
thickly-fluid and has the odor and taste of nutmegs. It
is readily soluble in alcohol and ether and of specific
gravity, 0.93 to 0.95. It consists of two oils, one speci-
fically lighter and fluid, and the other heavy and crystal-
line. On standing it deposits a stearoptene, called
myristicin.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 125
The nutmeg oils are but seldom used in perfumery.
Opopanax oil is obtained from opopanax.* It is of
gold-yellow color and an agreeable balsamic odor re-
minding one somewhat of myrrh. Its specific gravity is
0.9016, and it boils between 392 and 572 F.
On account of its strength, the oil must be very care-
fully handled in perfuming, but if used in the correct
proportion it is very advantageous.
Orange-peel oil, also called Portugal oil or essence of
Portugal, is obtained in Italy from the fresh peels of the
orange, the fruit of Citrus vulgaris, Eisso. It is pre-
pared in a manner similar to that of oil of lemons (which
see). In commerce a distinction is made between the
Messina oil, which is of inferior quality, and the Calabria
oil, which is of a better quality. The Messina oil has a
yellow color, frequently not much darker than that of
oil of lemons, while the color of Calabria oil is dark yel-
low, nearly brown. The oil prepared from the peels of
the bitter orange (Citrus bigaradia, Duhamel), is of
the same color as the sweet Messina oil. It is more used
in the preparation of liqueurs than for perfuming.
Orange-peel oils are limpid and have a specific gravity
of 0.819 to 0.9. One part of orange-peel oil should, ac-
cording to its age, dissolve clear in 5 to 10 parts of 90
per cent, alcohol.
Very similar to orange-peel oil, though differing
somewhat in odor, is the mandarin oil obtained from
the fresh peels of the mandarin orange, the fruit of
Citrus sinensis. It is brought into commerce from
Keggio and is said to form a constituent of the genuine
* See later on under " Balsams and Resins."
126 MANUFACTURE OF PEEFUMERY.
essbouquet. It has a specific gravity of 0.852 at 5^
and is dextrorotatory.
While from the peels the volatile oil is but s .^m
obtained by distillation, this process is exclusively used
for gaining volatile oils from the flowers, leaves, and
young branches. In this connection two kinds of vola-
tile oil have chiefly to be considered, viz : orange-flower
oil and petit-grain oil.
Orange-flower oil or neroli oil (oleum florum aurantii ;
ol. neroli; ol. naphce) is obtained by distillation from the
flowers of the bitter orange ; while the flowers of the
sweet orange yield the so-called neroli-Portugal oil, which
is far inferior to the other.
On the French Riviera, the orange is especially cul-
tivated for obtaining blossoms and leaves for distilling
purposes. At Cannes, Le Cannet, Golfe-Juan, Val-
lauris, Biot, Vence, Le Bar, Antibes, Le Cap, Nice,
and Mentone, the bitter orange, whose flowers are
very numerous and especially suitable for perfumery, is
chiefly cultivated. Cannes and Le Cannet alone pos-
sess 150,000 to 160,000 such trees, and Golfe-Juan
and Vallauris 200,000. The flowers harvested in
Golfe-Juan amount to about 700,000 Ibs., in Le Cannet
to about 330,000 Ibs., at Cannes to about 130,000 Ibs.,
and in Antibes, Mentone, and Nice to about 260,000 Ibs.
f One orange tree yields, according to its age, from 2 to
\17 Ibs. of flowers. The distillation of neroli oil has
also been lately commenced in Sicily and Calabria, but
as far as quality is concerned, the oil thus far brought
into commerce cannot compete with the French oil.
Oil of orange flowers is at first nearly colorless or
straw-yellow, but becomes reddish-yellow when kept for
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 127
> time. In a clear glass it opalizes bluish. It is
I and has a slightly bitter taste and a strong but
vc^j. delicious odor. Its specific gravity varies between
0.85 and 0.90. It is but sparingly soluble in water,
but imparts to the latter an agreeable odor; the solution
is colored red by sulphuric acid. With 1 to 2 parts
of 90 per cent, alcohol, the oil gives a clear solution
which becomes turbid by a further addition of alcohol
and, after standing quietly, a flaky separation of stearop-
tene is observed. If not carefully kept the oil becomes
darker and even acquires a disagreeable odor. By recti-
fication with water oil thus spoiled can be restored.
With sodium the oil does not evolve hydrogen gas ; it
detonates with iodine.
Of the various oils of orange blossoms occurring in
commerce " Neroli petale" is the best.
JNeroli oil being a very expensive oil is exposed to
many adulterations. Mierzinski even asserts that no
genuine unadulterated neroli oil occurs in commerce, be-
cause it is a well-known fact that what is sold as genuine,
pure neroli oil, consists on an average off genuine neroli
oil, -| oil of bergamot, and -| petit-grain oil. Further-
more, it is no secret that besides the flowers of all kinds
of Aurantiacece, unripe fruits or fresh peels of ripe fruits
and even young shoots of the branches and leaves are
subjected to distillation. This assertion perhaps goes
too far, but nevertheless it is advisable to procure the
oil only from a thoroughly reliable firm.
A very frequent adulteration consists in an addition
of petit-grain oil. Such an addition can only be recog-
nized by the taste and odor. For this purpose add to
3 drops of oil in a small bottle 10 grammes of distilled
128 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
water, and, after shaking vigorously, test as to the odor
and taste. According to Chevalier, pour 1 or 2 drops
of the oil upon sugar and stir the latter in water; if the
oil is not genuine the water acquires a bitter taste.
Hager recommends the following test : Mix 3 drops of
the oil in a test-tube with 40 to 50 drops of alcohol ; add,
after complete solution, about J the volume of the solu-
tion of concentrated sulphuric acid, and effect mixture
by careful shaking. Pure oil gives a turbid, reddish,
dark-brown mixture (with old oil, dark brown) ; almost
all other oils, which may be substituted, give paler-colored
(reddish, red, or ocher-color) mixtures ; or, in case the
genuine oil is adulterated with non-genuine, the mixture
exhibits a considerably less dark-color. When this test
has been several times executed with genuine oil, no
room for doubt is left. * If the mixture be diluted with
four times its volume of water, it becomes yellowish and
milky.
The odor of orange flowers is, according to Soubeiran,
due to two volatile oils, of which the one having the
most delicious odor is soluble in water. The other
volatile oil, of which the neroli oil of commerce chiefly
consists, is sparingly soluble in water, and does not pos-
sess such a delicious odor. This is the reason why good
orange-flower water cannot be prepared by saturating
water with neroli oil. The genuine orange-flower water
is obtained as a by-product in distilling the oil.
Neroli oil is much used for the finer perfumes, it being
especially a necessary constitutent of eau de Cologne. It
has to be carefully protected from air and light. For
perfuming purposes it is only sufficiently ripe after
having been stored for at least one year. If, however,
VOLATILE OILS USED IX PERFUMERY. 129
it becomes too old, it inclines towards rancidity, which
may be prevented by compounding it with an equal
volume of fine spirit. Portugal oil being of inferior
quality can only be used for lower grade products.
Petit grain oil (oleum petit grain) is obtained by dis-
tillation from the leaves, young shoots and unripe fruits
of different Aurantiacece. The best oil is that distilled
from the leaves of the bitter orange, it possessing an odor
similar to that of neroli oil, but, of course, not so fine.
Southern France was formerly the chief place for the
production of this oil, but considerable quantities of it
are now manufactured in Paraguay, and the oil at pre-
sent brought from there into commerce being of quite a
good quality and considerably cheaper than the French
oil, has almost entirely supplanted the latter.
Om-s root, oil of (oleum iridis), is obtained by distilla-
tion with steam from the rhizomes of Iris florentina,
which is cultivated in Southern France, Dalmatia, and
other regions. It has a yellow color and, at an ordi-
nary temperature, a quite solid consistency like butter
or wax, so that it can be rendered fluid only by heating.
It consists chiefly of a rigid odorless body to which
the liquid odoriferous oil adheres. The solid portion
was formerly designated orris-stearoptene ; according to
Flueckiger it is, however, myristic acid.
Oil of orris root is one of the oils which keep for
years without suffering injury. It is recommended to
keep it in stock in alcoholic solution so that the myristic
acid contained in it may to a certain degree be etherized,
and cannot injuriously affect the odoriferous principle.
Oil of orris root serves as a substitute and for
strengthening the natural odor of violets. It can, how-
9
130 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
ever, be employed only for very fine expensive perfu-
mery since, on account of the very slight yield from the
root (from 1000 parts J to j part of oil), its price is
very high, generally exceeding that of rose oil.
An admixture of other volatile oils of less value
would render the oil fluid at the ordinary temperature.
Patchouli oil. By the name of patchouli are known,
according to L. Wray, Jr., the leaves of Pogostemon
patchouli, Pellet, natural order Labiatce, indigenous to
the East Indies, and known and used for centuries in
the various regions of China, Assam, and the Malayan
Islands. Most of the patchouli comes from the East
Indies. Before exportation it is sorted into three quali-
ties : 1. Selected, consisting of leaves only. 2. Mixed,
leaves with slight peduncles and few stems. 3. Stalky
leaves. The best quality occurs seldom in commerce since
the picking of the leaves does not cover the expense.
According to Wray, the leaves are intentionally mixed
Avith those of the ruku (ocimum basilicum, L.), an herb
indigenous to the Malayan Islands. The leaves of the
latter are broader than those of pogostemon patchouli,
and the stalks thinner and round. Seed-capsules are
also frequently found among the leaves, though patch-
ouli seldom flowers and bears seeds.
In Europe, patchouli has been an article of commerce
since 1841. In the Orient it is highly esteemed as a
perfume. The Arabs even ascribe remedial properties
to it, and it is customary with them to fill their pillows
with the leaves to protect them from infection and pro-
long their lives.
The peculiar, penetrating, though not exactly agree-
able, odor of patchouli leaves, is due to a volatile oil, of
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 131
which they contain 1.5 to 2 per cent. In the Orient
this oil has for many years been obtained by distillation.
In the Penang market two kinds of oil, one green
and the other gold-brown, are distinguished. Though
both are sold at the same price, there is a greater de-
mand for the green oil. According to the statements
of the distillers, the brown oil is derived from the leaves
of old plants and the green oil from the leaves of young
plants. It would seem, however, that the color is de-
pendent on the soil upon which the plants are grown, as
well as upon atmospheric influences. When ruku is
distilled with patchouli leaves, the oil is yellow and
thickly-fluid.
In Germany, the oil is now distilled from imported
leaves. It is thickly-fluid, of a brown color, and, in an
undiluted state, possesses a disagreeable, almost musty
odor. However, when sufficiently diluted and suitably
mixed with other volatile oils, the odor is far more
agreeable, and for this reason it has for some time
played an important part in the manufacture of per-
fumery. It has the advantage of being very yielding
and lasting, but, on the other hand, possesses the disad-
vantage of not combining with other perfumes, so that
its odor is always perceptible. It should always be
used in very small quantities or much diluted.
In commerce Penang oil and French oil are distin-
guished, the first having a specific gravity of 0.959 and
the latter of 1.012. When kept for any length of time
the oil deposits patchouli-camphor (C^H^O) in pris-
matic crystals of 1.045 specific gravity and melting at
127 to 129 F. These crystals have a peculiar, very
lasting odor.
132 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Patchouli oil is soluble in equal parts of 90 per cent,
alcohol, the contrary indicating that it is not pure. It
is chiefly adulterated with cedar oil.
Peppermint oil. The Meniha family furnishes com-
merce with three oils differing essentially from each
other oil of curled mint, peppermint oil, and poley oil.
Oil of curled mint (oleum menthce crispce) is separated
by distillation with water from the leaves of Mentha
crispa, Linn. It is limpid, yellowish, sometimes green-
ish ; in time it becomes darker and more thickly-fluid.
Its specific gravity varies between 0.890 and 0.965. It
has a strong odor of curled mint and a pungent, some-
what cooling, slightly bitterish taste. It is soluble in
all proportions in 90 per cent, alcohol. In commerce a
distinction is made between German and American oil
of curled mint, the latter generally containing oil of
turpentine and oil of sassafras. Odor, taste, and the
alcohol test suffice for the determination of the quality
of the oil.
Oil of curled mint contains a terpene, C 10 H, 6 , arid a
body isomeric with carvol, the carvol of curled mint,
C 10 H 14 O. Its specific gravity, boiling point and chemi-
cal properties are the same as those of the carvol of cara-
way oil, but it differs from it by its odor and turning the
plane of polarization to the opposite direction. In con-
junction with other volatile oils, oil of curley mint is
sometimes used for perfuming soaps.
Peppermint oil (oleum menthce piperitce) is obtained
from the fresh flowering peppermint, Mentha piperitaj
natural order Labiatce. In commerce, German, English,
American and Japanese peppermint oils are distin-
guished. As regards fineness, the German oil is inferior
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 133
to the Eoglish and better kinds of American oils, but
superior to the Japanese. The best and most expensive
oil is the English so-called " Mitcham oil of peppermint,"
which dissolves in 50 parts of 50 per cent, spirit of wine
and possesses a fine, pure taste, it being for this reason
preferred by distillers for the fabrication of liqueurs.
For perfuming purposes, however, the American as well
as the German oils are very suitable. Of American oils
that of H. G. Hotchkiss, L. B. Hotchkiss, Hale & Par-
shall, and Fritzsche Bros, enjoy a high reputation. The
Japanese oil is distinguished from the rest by a peculiar
train-oil-like odor and taste, and is in but little demand.
Crude oil of peppermint is yellowish to greenish and
contains much mucus ; it has therefore to be subjected
to another distillation with water. The rectified oil is
clear as water, limpid, of a strong but pleasant odor and
a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.902. Old oil thickens
and then shows an acid reaction. The greater portion
of the oil congeals at the freezing point of water ; many
kinds, however, requiring but slight cooling in order to
become solid. The solid portion of the oil, Menthol,
(C 10 H 12 ,H 2 O) is a colorless, finely crystallized body with
an intense odor of peppermint. It melts at 107.6 F.,
is quite fluid at an ordinary temperature and boils at
413.6 F. Menthol is found in all oils of peppermint
most abundantly in the Japanese oil, which contains
from 50 to 55 per cent, of it. Mitcham oil is also very
rich in menthol, it containing from 40 to 45 per cent.,
while the American oil contains only from 20 to 25 per
cent.
American, German and English oils of peppermint
may be distinguished as follows : By adding to 5 or 6
134 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
drops of the oil, 25 to 30 drops of pure white concen-
trated sulphuric acid, American oil of peppermint becomes
heated and emits vapors, the mixture acquiring a dark
brownish red coloration. After mixing with 8 to 10
cubic centimeters of 90 per cent, alcohol, the fluid
becomes turbid, pale yellowish brown, or reddish brown,
and on boiling clear pale brown. When mixed with
sulphuric acid, German oil of peppermint becomes heated
without emitting vapors, becomes yellowish red, not
very dark, and turbid. After diluting with alcohol, the
fluid becomes turbid and yellowish red, and on boiling
somewhat more transparent and currant-red. English
oil of peppermint treated in the same manner as the
others with sulphuric acid becomes very slightly heated
without any emission of vapor. After diluting with
alcohol, it becomes clear and raspberry red.
As adulterants of peppermint oil are mentioned :
fat oils, alcohol, oil of turpentine, copaiba oil, mustard
oil, and ginger oil. The most frequent adulteration is
an admixture of oil of turpentine. It is recognized by
the oil not dissolving clear in equal parts of 90 per
cent, alcohol, as is the case with the pure product. To
detect the presence of copaiba oil, mix 5 drops of the
oil to be tested with 15 to 20 drops of fuming nitric
acid, shake and allow it to stand for 1 to 2 hours.
After this time the oily portion should be neither entirely
nor partially congealed, but remain fluid. To detect
traces of mustard oil, bring 10 drops of the oil into a
wide reagent glass, then add 3 to 4 cubic centimeters
of absolute alcohol, 2 to 3 drops of silver nitrate solu-
tion and 12 to 15 drops of ammonia. The mixture is
clear and colorless, and remains so on heating to boiling.
VOLATILE OILS USED LN PERFUMERY. 135
Iii the presence of mustard oil turbidity and blackening
take place in consequence of the formation of silver
sulphide. After boiling, allow the fluid to stand quietly
for 2 or 3 hours. If it then shows a grayish turbidity,
the oil is adulterated with another volatile oil.
Instead of pure American oil of peppermint, a pro-
duct compounded with camphor oil, and mostly freed
from menthol, is said frequently to occur in commerce.
According to E. 0. Federer, this is recognized by dis-
solving one volume of oil of peppermint in 2 volumes
of 94 per cent, alcohol, adding water and shaking. Pure
peppermint oil is then separated with a certain portion of
the alcohol. For example, mix 10 cubic centimeters of oil
of peppermint in a graduated cylinder of 45 to 50 cubic
centimeters' capacity with 20 cubic centimeters of 94 per
cent, alcohol, then add 10 cubic centimeters of water of
50 F. and shake. After allowing the mixture to stand
quietly, two layers are formed, the upper one of which, if
the oil is pure, will amount to 14 cubic centimeters, but
only to 12.5 cubic centimeters if the oil is freed from
menthol and compounded with camphor oil. A larger
or smaller addition of water to the alcoholic mixture is
without influence upon the height of the upper layer
separated.
In perfumery peppermint oil serves chiefly for aroma-
tizing dentifrices, etc. It should be kept in well-closed
bottles in a shady place; an addition of 0.5 per cent, of
alcohol helps to preserve the oil for a long time.
Poky oil (oleum menthce pulegii). In Southern France
and Spain this oil is obtained by distillation from the
leaves of Mentha pulegium. It has an odor resembling
that of peppermint, is at first colorless, but soon becomes
136 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
yellow, has a specific gravity of 0.927, boils at 361.4
to 370.4 F., and contains neither menthol nor carvol.
It is used for perfuming herb soaps.
Pimento oil, or oil of allspice (oleum pimento) from the
bruised fruit of Eugenia pimento, , allspice, natural order
Myrtacece. The oil is pale yellow, becoming reddish-
brown by age ; it has a very pungent taste and intense
odor, very much resembling that of cloves. It is heavier
than water, its specific gravity being from 1.021 to 1.037.
It mixes with glacial acetic acid in all proportions. When
treated with nitric acid, pure pimento oil assumes a red
color, with strong effervescence.
Rose oil or attar of roses (oleum rosce) comes almost
exclusively from Bulgaria, where it is obtained by dis-
tillation with water from the flowers of Rosa damascena.
The small quantities of an excellent quality of rose oil
prepared in Southern France from Rosa provincialis
remain in the country of their production and do not
even cover the local demand. The small productions of
Persia and India need also not be taken into considera-
tion. In Tunis, where formerly much rose water was
prepared from Rosa canina and also rose oil of a very
fine quality, the distillation of roses has, according to
Christo Christoff, been entirely abandoned, geranium oil
only being now produced. In the summer of 1884,
Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic, Germany, made the ex-
periment to obtain oil on a large scale from indigenous
roses. The result was very satisfactory, 2000 Ibs. of
rose leaves yielding about 1 Ib. of oil, the extraordi-
narily agreeable, odor of which, was so superior to that
of the Turkish oil, that notwithstanding the high price
double that of Turkish oil it found ready purchasers.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMEEY. 137
At the ordinary temperature the Leipzic oil is solid, it
only melting at 89.6 F.
In Bulgaria, Kazanlik, in the Tundscha Valley, is
the centre of the entire industry and the principal
market. Rose oil is there called " gul-jag" (gul, the
rose, and jag, oil). The annual production of Kazanlik
and neighboring places, amounting 50 years ago to from
450 to 650 Ibs., has within a few years risen to the enor-
mous figure of 5500 Ibs.
In Kazanlik two varieties of roses, known as the
" white rose" and " red rose," are cultivated ; the former
being Rosa alba, L., and the latter Rosa damascena,
Miller. By distillation the white rose yields an oil of
little perfume, but rich in stearoptene. On account of
its slight odor, the white rose is seldom distilled by
itself, but occasionally white and red roses are mixed
in order to obtain an oil rich in stearoptene, so that a
fraudulent admixture of a larger quantity of geranium
oil may be effected without great danger of detection.
The large plantations consist only of bushes of red roses.
But on the edges of the field a strip, a few feet wide,
is planted with white roses, so that only flowers of little
commercial value may be plucked by passers-by.
The flowers are gathered before sunrise, and, if pos-
sible, the same day subjected to distillation. The latter
is effected in a very crude apparatus, over a direct fire.
The flowers are distilled with double their weight of
water, one-half of which is drawn off. The product of
several operations thus obtained is combined and again
distilled, when, however, only one-sixth is drawn off.
This distillate is allowed to stand for one or two days in
a place warmer than 59 F., when the oil floating on
138 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
the top is skimmed off. It may be supposed that on an
average 6600 Ibs. of roses are required to obtain 2.2
Ibs. of oil, and that these 6600 Ibs. of roses correspond
to an area of 1 hectare (2.471 acres) planted with rose
bushes.
Pure, carefully-distilled rose oil is at first colorless,
but soon turns yellowish.* Its specific gravity is be-
tween 0.830 and 0.890. It consists of a liquid oil and
a stearoptene, the content of the latter varying very
much. It is a pure hydrocarbon, odorless, of specific
gravity, 0.840 to 0.860, and distils at 572 F. Hence
it is lighter than the elseoptene on which alone the odor
of the rose oil is dependent. Rose oil generally congeals
between 50 and 60 F., though sometimes at a higher
or lower degree, according to its content of stearoptene.
While some oils require the cold of winter for congealing,
others are in the heat of summer either entirely solid, or
form a fluid filled with many crystals. The odor of
rose oil is peculiarly honoy-like, and too intense to be
agreeable, its entire deliciousness being only developed
by strong dilution, be it by dissolving in water or
alcohol, or by distribution upon large quantities of rigid
bodies, fats, .soaps, etc. In alcohol it dissolves with
greater difficulty than all other volatile oils, 1 part of it
requiring for solution 1.40 to 160 parts of alcohol of
0.815 specific gravity.
The larger or smaller content of stearoptene in rose
oil seems to be dependent on climatic conditions, it
having been remarked that the quantity is the greater
* This, however, applies only to Bulgarian oil ; French and
Saxon rose oils have a greenish color.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 139
the lower the temperature of the region. The oil from
the coldest and highest regions of the Balkan is richer
in stearoptene than that from the lower and warmer
regions.
The genuineness of rose oil is generally judged by its
odor, its capacity of congealing, and the manner of its
crystallization. The odor is by all means the most re-
liable criterion, but requires much experience, and espe-
cially reliable pure standard samples for comparison.
The capacity of congealing at certain conditions of tem-
perature, is, to be sure, also a requirement of genuine
rose oil, but, as previously mentioned, this property
varies very much, and is subject to different influences, so
that a fixed standard at which pure rose oil must congeal
cannot be established. Attention must, however, be
called to the fact that the quality of a rose oil does by
no means rise with its greater capacity to congeal, since
only the liquid oxyginated portion possesses odor.
Schimmel & Co. bring at present into commerce a
liquid rose oil freed from stearoptene which can be
highly recommended for finer alcoholic perfumes. It
remains fluid at 32 F., but in a cold mixture congeals
to a gelatinous mass, and hence is not absolutely free
from stearoptene. It has an extremely fine and power-
ful odor, and when dissolved in alcohol does not give
the disagreeable crystalline separations of the ordinary
rose oil, which produce a disturbing effect, especially in
the preparation of extracts.
For the insulation and determination of the stearop-
tene in rose oil, Schimmel & Co. proceed as follows :
Heat 50 grammes of oil together with 500 grammes of
75 per cent, alcohol to from 158 to 176 F. In cool-
140 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
ing, the stearoptene separates nearly quantitatively.
Separate it from the fluid, treat it again in the same
manner with 200 grammes of 75 per cent, alcohol, and
repeat the operation until the stearoptene is entirely free
from odor. Two treatments of the crude stearopteue
are generally sufficient. In this manner Schimmel &
Co. obtained from 1887 German rose oil 32J per cent,
stearoptene, from 1888 German rose oil 34 per cent.,
from 1887 Turkish rose oil 12 to 13 per cent., and from
1888 Turkish rose oil 14 per cent.
It is evident that such a valuable product as rose oil
is much subjected to adulteration, it being even said
that oils containing scarcely 10 per cent, of genuine rose
oil occur in the market. The chief adulterant used by
the Bulgarians is the so-called geranium oil, but actually
ginger-grass oil derived from India, which is brought
by way of Arabia to Constantinople, and prepared for the
purpose of adulterating rose oil by treatment with lemon
juice and bleaching in the sun. The sophistication is
generally effected by sprinkling the ginger-grass oil
thus prepared upon the rose leaves before distilling.
The general characters of this oil are so similar to those
of rose oil that detection, when the adulteration is kept
within certain limits, is very difficult, so that during the
distilling time large buyers and exporters of rose oil are
forced to pay, besides their other officers in Kazanlik,
confidential native agents who constantly move around
in the distilling regions and report where distillation has
been carried on honestly, and where the ginger-grass oil
bottle has been seen. However, the prepared ginger-
grass oil is frequently not even distilled with the rose
leaves, but simply mixed with the finished rose oil.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 141
Whether a rose oil is free from geranium or ginger-
grass oil is tested in Bulgaria, according to Christo
Christoff, by the freezing method, which is, however,
unreliable. It is based upon the fact that an addition
of geranium oil reduces the congealing point of rose oil.
Pure Bulgarian rose oil congeals at from 63.5 to 68
F. ; by the addition of geranium oil, the same oil con-
geals at 61.25, 59, 5(5.75, or at a still lower tempera-
ture, according to the quantity added. The buyer when
purchasing oil carries with him two basins, one contain-
ing hot and the other cold water, which he mixes in
order to obtain a fixed temperature, the operation being
controlled by a Reaumur thermometer. In the water
thus prepared he completely submerges a 20 gramme
flask containing 1 5 grammes of the oil to be tested. In
three minutes, needle-like crystals of the separating
stearoptene must appear, and in ten minutes crystalliza-
tion must be complete. According to the congealing
point thus established, the product is paid for. Oil
congealing below 59 F. being evidently adulterated is
rejected and bargained for at a special price.
Many attempts have been made to fraudulently make
this congelation appear within the limits of temperature
permitted, paraffine which dissolves well in rose oil being
formerly frequently added. In such case the oil may
congeal at from 65.75 to 68 F., but the crystals are
opaque, dirty yellow, and dissolve to a turbid paste
which collects on the surface. The simplest method is
to distil white roses with the red. The resulting pro-
duct has not as fine an odor as that from red roses
alone, but is richer in stearoptene. Such oil, which, un-
adulterated, congeals perhaps at 68 F., can by the addi-
142 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
tion of geranium oil be reduced to from 63.5 to 65.75
F., thus keeping within the limits permitted.
Numerous attempts have been made to find a rapid
and sure way for the detection of geranium oil in rose
oil, but thus far in vain. Attention must also be drawn
to the fact that the adulterant is frequently itself adul-
terated with oil of turpentine before being sold to the
distillers of rose oil.
Besides the above-mentioned ginger-grass oil, the
actual geranium oils from Pelargonium odoratisximum
and P. roseum, as well as rose-wood oil, sandal-wood
oil, spermaceti, paraffine, and fat oils have been nien-
tioned as adulterants of rose oil. The geranium oils
having a by-odor of lemon oil, by which their presence
could be readily detected are not suitable for the purpose.
Neither can rose-wood or sandal-wood oils be used, or
at least such adulteration would be so clumsy as to be
immediately recognized. Attempts to adulterate rose
oil by the addition of a fat crystal lizable body together
with another volatile oil fail on account of the character-
istic properties of rose oil stearoptene, which resembles no
other body at present known. While rose oil stearop-
tene is' lighter than elseoptene and entirely volatile, sper-
maceti possesses essentially different qualities. It does
not form such long and specifically light crystals as
rose oil stearoptene; hence it readily separates on the
bottom and on shaking exhibits a peculiar iridescent
loamy formation. Furthermore it melts at 122 F.,
and not being volatile, leaves, on heating, a greasy stain
upon paper, while the stearoptene melts at 95 F. and,
on heating, volatilizes completely without leaving a
greasy stain behind.
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 14o
If a rose oil is to be tested, expose the bottle contain-
ing the oil to a moderate heat until the contents are en-
tirely liquid ; then gently shake the bottle in order to
bring about an intimate mixture of elseoptene and stear-
optene. Now pour some of the oil into a cylindrical
glass flask of 20 to 40 cubic centimeters' capacity and
allow it to congeal ; then, while heating in the hand,
observe how the rigid portions act in liquefying. These
rigid, crystalline portions should be transparently clear
and, being lighter than the fluid portion, float, while
liquefying, in the upper layer of the fluid. Hence, if
now the fluid be again allowed to congeal, the crystals
should appear within the upper half of the oil. The
above-mentioned volatile oils partially lack the prop-
erty of separating a stearoptene in crystals at from
33.8 to 50 F., and though they may have a rose
odor, it is not the mild, fragrant odor of genuine rose
oil. To recognize the latter, Guibourt makes use of
pure concentrated sulphuric acid. Stir together in a
watch-crystal an equal number of drops of the oil and
of the acid ; pure rose oil preserves its characteristic
odor, while the foreign oils exhibit a disagreeable odor
even when mixed with genuine rose oil.
Schimmel & Co. give a method for an approximate
quantitative determination of spermaceti in rose oil:
Boil 3 to 5 grammes of stearoptene, separated in the
manner above given, with 20 to 25 grammes of 5 per-
cent, alcoholic potash lye for 5 to 6 hours ; then evapo-
rate the alcohol and compound the residue with hot
water. In cooling, the greater portion of the stearop-
tene separates in a crystalline mass upon the surface.
Now pour off the alkaline fluid, wash the stearoptene
144 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
with cold water, then melt it again in hot water, allow
it to cool, pour off the water, and repeat the same opera-
tions until the wash-water is neutral. The combined
aqueous fluids are twice shaken with ether to remove any
stearoptene suspended in them. The alcoholic lye sepa-
rated from the ether is acidulated with dilute sulphuric
acid and again extracted with ether. After evapora-
tion no residue (fatty acids) should remain. To control
the experiment weigh the regained stearoptene dried at
194 F., adding, of course, the ether used for extracting
the alkaline fluid. There will be a small loss, since
small quantities of stearoptene always evaporate in
drying.
Rosemary oil (oleum rosemarini or ol. anthos) is obtained
in Southern Europe, especially in Southern France, Dal-
matia and Northern Italy, by distillation from the flow-
ering rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis, natural order
Labiatce. It is, when fresh, limpid, colorless, or yellow-
ish, of a penetrating, camphor-like odor and taste, and
specific gravity 0.880 to 0.915. By age it becomes
darker and thickly-fluid. The French rosemary oil is
the best and most expensive. It is distinguished from
the Italian oil by its much more pleasant odor. Pure
French rosemary oil dissolves in an equal part of 90
per cent, alcohol, while the Italian product requires
2 to 3 parts. The cheaper rosemary oils are generally
adulterated with oil of turpentine, which is recognized
by the oil not dissolving in the above-mentioned pro-
portion in alcohol, as well as by the iodine test. Rose-
mary oil does not detonate with iodine, but simply dis-
solves with heating and perhaps the emission of vapors-
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 145
The French rosemary oil forms one of the ingredients
of eau de Cologne and is used in other perfumery.
Rosewood oil or rhodium oil (oleum ligni rhodii), is ob-
tained by distillation from the wood of the root and
lower trunk of Convolvulus scopiarius and C.floridas,L.,
two plants indigenous to the Canaries. The waste fall-
ing off in the manufacture of rosewood beads is chiefly
used for the purpose. The oil is of a pale yellow color
becoming brown by age. It has a pleasant odor resem-
bling in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose. It
is sometimes used in cheap perfumery as a substitute
for rose oil.
Sandal-wood oil (oleum ligni sandali) is distilled from
the white West Indian or dark yellow East Indian san-
dal-wood (Santalum myrtifolium). For the purpose of
distillation the wood is rasped as finely as possible. The
oil obtained from the East Indian wood is the better
and more valuable. It has a dark yellow to brown color
and a pleasant intense, rose-like odor, while the West
Indian oil is pale yellow and of a less agreeable odor.
Both oils are very thickly-fluid. The quality and value
of sandal-wood oil are best judged by the odor, an
adulteration with cedar oil being readily detected thereby.
Sassafras oil (oleum ligni sassafras), from the bruised
root of the sassafras tree, Sassafras officinale, natural
order Lauracece. Sassafras is one of the most widely
distributed trees of North America, being found in
Canada, in all of the United States, east of the prairies,
beyond the Mississippi, and in Mexico. The largest
amount of oil distilled is within sixty miles of Baltimore,
Md., which is the principal depot for its commerce.
Oil of sassafras varies in color from colorless to
10
146 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
yellow and red. Its taste is pungent and aromatic,
being agreeable to most persons. It has a pleasant
odor resembling that of fennel, and is heavier than
water, its specific gravity being 1.08 to 1.09. It is
soluble in 4 to 5 parts of alcohol of 0.85 specific gravity,
and consists of a mixture of various oils, among which
is safrene (C 10 H 16 ), a dextrorotatory terpene which boils
between 311 and 314.6 F. By strongly cooling in a
cold mixture, safrol, a crystallizing stearoptene of the
composition C ]0 H 10 O 2 , is separated. Safrol is the chief
constituent of sassafras oil. It is obtained in abundance
by cooling, at a temperature of 13 F., the portion
boiling between 442.4 and 455 F. It melts at 46.4
F., and at a medium temperature forms a colorless clear
oil of pungent taste, characteristic odor, and specific
gravity 1.104. When the crystals have been heated to
above 158 F., they congeal only after remaining for
weeks at a temperature below 32 F., but on being
melted at 68 F., the fluid mass again congeals readily
on cooling. The safrol is neutral, optically inactive,
boils at 449.6 F., and is soluble in alcohol and ether.
Sassafras oil is said to be frequently adulterated with
oil of turpentine, which is, however, readily detected by
the energetic reaction and by distilling a sample of the
suspected oil.
Safrol is very suitable for perfuming ordinary soaps.
It has in a still higher degree than camphor oil the
property of removing the disagreeable odor of some fats,
while at the same time it imparts to the soaps an
aromatic, refreshing odor. As a rule 8 to 11 ozs. are
used for 220 Ibs. of soap ; but if it shall at the same
itime serve for removing the disagreeable odor of low
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 147
quality fats, especially those extracted with bisulphide
of carbon or benzine, it is advisable to take 2.2 Ibs., or
still better, 4.4 Ibs. for 220 Ibs. of soap. In this case the
safrol should be added to the fat after melting and before
saponification and thoroughly mixed with it by stirring.
An excellent perfume for ordinary soaps is a mixture of
safrol and citronella oil, it being at any rate preferable
to oil of mirbane.
The standard of value for safrol is its specific gravity,
which should not be below 1.104 at 59 F. Specifically
lighter kinds contain camphor oil and other impurities.
Thyme oil is obtained in Southern France and Spain
by distillation from the flowering thyme, Thymus vul-
garisj L. It is greenish-yellow to red (red thyme oil,
oleum thymi rubrum\ but by rectification becomes color-
less (white thyme oil, oleum thymi album). Both oils
are quite limpid and possess a strong thyme odor. The
specific gravity of the red oil is 0.91 to 0.94, and that
of the rectified oil 0.87 to 0.89. The oil prepared from
the fresh plant shows, as a rule, a higher specific gravity
than that from the dried plant. Thyme oil consists
essentially of thymene (C 10 H 16 ) besides some cymene
(C 10 H 14 ) and thymol (C 10 H ]4 O), the latter forming an
essential constitutent of the oil. Oils from which the
thymol has been withdrawn occur in commerce. Pure
thyme oil dissolves clear in every proportion in 90 per
cent, alcohol ; if such is not the case, adulteration with
oil of turpentine is probable.
The oil distilled from the field thyme, Thymus serpyl-
lum y L. } is limpid, yellowish to gold yellow, and of spe-
cific gravity 0.89 to 0.91. Old oil is red or brown and
no longer limpid. Good oil is soluble in every proper-
148 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
tion in 90 per cent, alcohol and emits only slight vapors
when brought in contact with iodine. It consists largely
of thymene and cymene, and contains a few per cent, of
phenol -like bodies.
Turpentine, oil of. Under the general name " oil of
turpentine" are comprised the volatile oils obtained by
distillation from the resins or other portions of different
species of the pine. There is a large number of these
oils, the most important ones of which shall here be men-
tioned, though but a few are of interest to the perfumer.
Austrian oil of turpentine, from Pinus laricio, Poir.
It is colorless or yellowish, transparent ; specific gravity,
0.864; boiling point, 311 to 314 F. ; turns polarized
light to the left ; soluble in 6 parts 90 per cent, alcohol.
"When rectified it has a specific gravity of 0.862, and is
soluble in 7 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol.
German oil of turpentine, from Pinus sylvestris, P.
abies, P. vulgaris, P. pieea, and P. rotundata, resembles
the former ; specific gravity, 0.860 to 0.870 ; boiling-
point, 311 to 320 F.; turns polarized light to the
left. When rectified it is soluble in 7 parts of 90 per
cent, alcohol.
French oil of turpentine, from French turpentine of
Pinus maritima. It is colorless or faint yellowish;
specific gravity, 0.860; boiling point, 313 to 315
F. ; turns polarized light to the left ; odor peculiar ;
taste burning. With 7 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol it
gives a clear solution.
Venetian oil of turpentine, from Venice turpentine of
Larix decidua, Mill., is laevorotatory and resembles
the preceding, but has a more agreeable odor. Venice
VOLATILE OILS USED IX PERFUMERY. 149
turpentine is jnostly obtained in Southern Tyrol and in
Piedmont, and yields 18 to 25 per cent, of oil.
American oil of turpentine, from American turpentine
of Pinus australis, Mich., and P. Taeda, L. It resembles
French turpentine, but turns polarized light to the right.
Specific gravity, 0.864; boiling point, 302 to 312.8 F.
Pine oil (oleum abietis) is obtained by distilling with
water the leaves or green cones of Pinus picea, L., Abies
pectinata, D. C. Its odor is much finer than that of or-
dinary oil of turpentine. It is soluble in 7 parts of 90
per cent, alcohol.
Dwarf pine oil, Krummhoh or. Latschenoel (oleum pini
pumilionis), is obtained by distilling the young tops and
cones of Pinus pumilio with water. It has an agreeable
odor, reminding one of juniper; specific gravity, 0.865 ;
boiling, point, 338 F. The oil is laevorotatory and
soluble in 12 to 15 parts of 90 per cent, alcohol.
Pine-leaf oil is obtained by distilling the leaves of
Pinus sylvestris or P. abies by means of steam. It is
dextrorotatory ; has a fine aromatic odor ; boiling point,
320 F. ; specific gravity, 0.875 to 0.876.
Tem,plin oil (Kienoel) (oleum pini, ol. templinum) is ob-
tained chiefly in some sections of Switzerland and Tyrol
by distilling the wood, branches, leaves, cones, etc., with
water. It has a lemon-like odor ; specific gravity, 0.860
to 0.880 ; boiling point, 320 to 327 F., and is laevora-
tatory.
Balsam-pine oil (oleum abietis canadensis) is obtained
in Canada from the branches of Abies bahamea, D. C.
It has a slightly yellowish color, a very agreeable and
refreshing odor; specific gravity, 0.902; boiling point
150 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
at 320 to 330.8 F., and turns polarized light to the
right.
Of the different varieties of oil of turpentine men-
tioned only pine oil and dwarf pine oil are used in
perfumery.
Oils of turpentine must be kept carefully protected
from light and air. When badly kept they gradually
become resinous with formation of formic and acetic
acids. When exposed to the air oil of turpentine absorbs
ozone ; with iodine it detonates violently. When brought
in contact with a mixture of concentrated sulphuric acid
and nitric acid it ignites.
Verbena, oil of, from the lemon verbena, Aloysia citrio-
dora, Hooker. The plant is cultivated in the gardens
of Grasse. The oil is extracted from the leaves by dis-
tillation in August, but on account of its high price is
almost out of market, it being everywhere substituted
by the oil of lemon grass, Andropogon citratus.
Violet, oil of. The perfume of the violet, Viola odo-
rata, natural order Violacece, is due to a volatile oil of
a green color and of such a penetrating odor as to cause
headache ; it acquires the agreeable odor of the violet
only by strong dilution. The violet farms from whence
the flowers are procured for the production of the oil,
are very extensive at Nice and in the neighborhood of
Florence. The oil is only obtained by the absorption
process, all other methods to procure it having failed up
to this time. It is scarcely obtainable in commerce, as
the French manufacturers, who prepare the greater part
of it, use the very small yield for manufacturing fine
perfumery.
Vitivert or vetiver oil (oelum iva ranchusa) from the
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 151
so-called cuscus, the rhizome of an Indian grass, Ana-
thereum muricatum. The oil is obtained by distillation,
either from the fresh root in India, or from the imported
dried root in Europe. The yield is very small. The oil
is thickly-fluid, of a red-brown color, and has an intense,
but agreeable odor very much like that of oil of orris
root. Like the latter, it possesses the valuable property
of diffusing a lasting perfume. Its value can only be
judged by the odor, and hence it should only be pur-
chased from a thoroughly reliable firm.
Wintergreen oil (oleum gaultherice) is obtained by dis-
tillation from the wintergreen, Gaultheria proeumbens,
a plant common in North America. It is thickly fluid,
yellowish green to gold yellow, of a sweetish, aromatic,
pungent taste and penetrating, narcotic odor, which
becomes agreeable only by strongly diluting the oil.
By rectification the oil becomes entirely colorless. Its
specific gravity is 1.170 to 1.190 (according to Glad-
stone, 1.142). It is sparingly soluble in water, but
readily so in alcohol, ether, chloroform, etc. The aqueous
or dilute alcoholic solution is colored deep violet by
ferric chloride.
Wintergreen oil boils at 392 F. ; the boiling point,
however, soon rises to 431.6 F., when it remains con-
stant. Between 392 and 428 F. a 'terpene (C 10 H 16 )
constituting about T V f tlie oil distils off; the rest corre-
sponds to the composition C 8 H 8 O 3 ; it is methyl salicy-
Wintergreen oil is also obtained by distillation from
Gaultheria punctata and Gaultheria leucocarpa. An
oil, very closely resembling wintergreen oil, is in this
152 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
country distilled from the young shoots of the American
species of birch, Betula lenta, variously called sweet
birch, black birch, cherry birch, and mountain mahogany.
According to Procter, the oil does not exist in the birch
but is formed by the action of the water upon an odor-
less body, called gaultherin, which is converted into
volatile oil by the reaction of another substance analo-
gous to emulsin. Hence the formation of oil is similar
to that of oil of bitter almonds. To obtain the oil from
Betttla lenta, the material is chopped up and placed in
the still, as much as this will hold, a sufficient quantity of
water being then added to fill the still about one-third full.
The still is generally permitted to remain in this condi-
tion over night, a fire is made in the morning and dis-
tillation proceeds nicely. The manufacture of birch
oil is carried on at quite a large scale by Mr. A. H.
Seidle, of Middleport, Schuylkill County, Pa.
.Methyl salicylate may also be artificially prepared by
heating a mixture of methyl alcohol, sulphuric acid and
salicylic acid whereby at first methyl-sulphuric acid is
formed which is then converted into methyl ether and
sulphuric acid :
(OH fOCH 3
S0 2 1 + CH 3 OH = S0 2 1 + H 2
(OH (OH
(OCH 3 (OH
+ c 6 nJ
(COOH
co. ocH
(OH
SOJOH.
(
Etherification succeeds without difficulty, it being suffi-
cient to heat the mixture for some time and then pour
VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. 153
it into water whereby the ether separates as ^a. heavy
layer of oil. After washing with water distil ijjj^ direct
current of steam. The ether thus obtaine^i^is clear
as water and, as regards its other properties/ 'does not
differ from the naturally occurring oil. This artificial
wintergreen oil is now much used for perfuming
purposes.
Wintergreen oil is said to be frequently adulterated
with sassafras oil which is also specifically heavier than
water. If, according to Hayer, 5 drops of the oil in a
test-tube be mixed with 10 drops of crude concentrated
nitric acid, a deep blood-red fluid results in one minute
if oil of sassafras is present. In the course of another
minute, the fluid separates a brown resinous mass. Pure
oil, on the other hand, is but little altered.
According to P. MacEwan the adulteration of winter-
green oil with camphor oil is carried on at a large scale.
The presence of camphor oil may be recognized by the
specific gravity, 0.900, while that of pure wintergreen
oil is, on an average, 1.18. A crude test which is,
however, readily executed is as follows : Stir a few
drops of the suspected oil in water. If pure, the oil
in a few seconds sinks to the bottom, but if it contains
camphor oil several minutes elapse before it deposits,
and there is time to observe that the particles of oil
assume different forms, but not a globular one.
Ylang-Ylang oil (oleum unonce) is obtained by dis-
tilling the flowers of Unona odoratissima, indigenous to
the Philippine Islands, the Straits of Malacca, and In-
dian Archipelago. The oil is colorless to yellowish.
Its color and specific gravity, however,, vary very much,
according to the season of the year in which it is pre-
154 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
pared, the oil distilled in the cold season being more
colorless and limpid than that produced in the warm
season. The oil has an exquisite odor, partaking of the
jasmine and the lilac, and is used in the manufacture of
the finest perfumery. Various kinds are found in com-
merce, that marked " Sartorius" being preferred.
The difference in quality of the many kinds of oil
found in commerce is chiefly due to the method of pre-
paration and the selection of the flowers, which possess
the finest aroma when freshly gathered. In distilling,
the first light volatile portions passing over have an
incomparable perfume, while the oil distilling over later
on possesses an insipid odor. Hence the manufacturer,
who only obtains the first portions, will furnish the
finest quality of oil, and it is this method of preparation
which has gained the "Sartorius" oil its high reputation.
While according to Schimmel & Co.'s report, 220 Ibs. of
fresh ylang-ylang flowers yield 2.64 Ibs. of oil, Sartorius
for the preparation of his fine oil distils off only about
half the quantity.
Conanga oil is a poorer quality of ylang-ylang oil,
obtained from the same plant. Two varieties are dis-
tinguished in commerce, viz : the Javanese and Indian.
The Java oil is the best, and may be used where
ordinary qualities of ylang-ylang oil will do. According
to Schimmel & Co.'s report the cheaper Indian oil is
very resistant and durable in soaps, especially when
combined with licari or linaloe oil.
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 155
CHAPTER V.
RESINS AND BALSAMS.
THE term resins is applied to certain organic sub-
stances which are very closely related to volatile oils, in
so far as many of them are formed from the latter by
oxidation. As previously mentioned, by exposure to
the atmospheric air all volatile oils undergo a change,
whereby they thicken and are finally converted into
substances possessing the character of resins. In nature
most resins also occur mixed with volatile oils.
The elementary constituents of resins are carbon,
hydrogen, and oxygen ; but, generally speaking, they
are poor in oxygen and rich in carbon. Chemically
they behave like weak acids, their solutions frequently
reddening litmus and sometimes expelling, on boiling,
the carbonic acid from alkaline carbonates.
Independent of a possible content of volatile oil,
every naturally occurring resin consists of several resins
which, however, can, as a rule, be separated only with
difficulty.
The resins are generally divided into hard resins, soft
resins or balsams, and gum-resins. The hard resins are,
at the ordinary temperature, solid, hard, and brittle, can
be readily pulverized, and contain little or no volatile
oil. The soft resins or balsams are kneadable, and
sometimes even semi-fluid ; they represent solutions of
resins in volatile oils, or a mixture of volatile oil and
156 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
resin. On exposure to the air they are changed by the
volatile oil suffering oxidation, they becoming then more
or less hard, and may be converted into actual resins.
The gum-resins are mixtures of vegetable gum, resin,
and volatile oils, and are obtained by inspissation of the
milky juice of several plants. When triturated with
water they yield a milky, turbid fluid, and dissolve
only partially in alcohol.
The resins are widely diffused in the vegetable king-
dom, there being scarcely a plant which does not contain
resin in one form or another. Some families of plants
and organs of plants are, however, distinguished by
their special wealth of resins. The resins are, as a rule,
secreted simultaneously with volatile oils in special
reservoirs, from which they flow out naturally at certain
periods, or are obtained by incisions made in the plants.
A few bodies of the character of resins also occur in the
animal kingdom, and a series of them, the fossil resins,
are generally classed in the mineral kingdom, though
most of them are very likely derived from plants. Some
resins, such as the aldehyde resins, etc., are purely arti-
ficial products.
Of the hard resins, benzoin alone is used in per-
fumery ; of the balsams, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, and
storax balsam ; and of the gum-resins, the myrrh.
Benzoin is exclusively obtained from Styrax ben-
zoin, Dry and (Benzoine officinale, Ho.yne\ a tree which
grows in Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The bark of the
tree is slit to allow a fluid to flow out, which concretes
on the trunk in the form of grains, or is collected in
vessels in which it congeals and assumes the form of
lumps (" tampangs"). Older trees which have been
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 157
frequently tapped for resin yield a product of a lower
Duality; the grains ("tears") forming, as a rule, the
better varieties. When the benzoin collects in large
masses it always shows an amygdaloid structure, the
grains ("almonds") of a roundish form, smooth termina-
tion, homogeneous structure, and paler color, appearing
imbedded in a dark, porous, or resiniform mass.
According to the appearance of the product three
varieties are distinguished : Benzoin in tears (B. in
lacrimis), amygdaloid benzoin (B. amygdaloides), and lump
benzoin (B. in sortis, B. in massis). The benzoin in
tears forms loose, smoothly terminated, longish, homo-
geneously appearing masses of an opal-like lustre, and
first of a whitish, and later on, of a yellowish, reddish,
or brownish color. The separate pieces are up to 3
millimeters in diameter, though the Siam benzoin in
tears frequently consists of still larger and generally
decidedly flattened pieces.
Amygdaloid benzoin consists chiefly of white pieces,
becoming, later on, brownish, of a waxy lustre and im-
bedded in a lustrous brown-red resinous mass. The
lump benzoin or ordinary benzoin has also an amygdaloid
structure but is not so rich in almonds as the preceding
variety and possesses either a fine granular or colophony-
like ground-mass and is frequently contaminated by parts
of plants. The exterior of the variety occurring in
commerce in large lumps shows, according to the mode
of packing, the imprint of leaves or of coarse pack-
cloth.
Benzoin generally consists of cinnamic and benzoic
acids which occur in a crystalline state in the grains as
well as the ground-mass ; further, of several amorphous
158 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
resins soluble in alcohol, and coloring matter. The con-
tent of cinnamic and benzoic acids amounts to from 1 2
to 20 per cent. The best varieties from Sumatra and
Singapore contain no benzoic acid, and those from Siam
no cinnamic acid.
All varieties of benzoin possess a peculiar odor, that
of the better varieties being agreeable, and a sweet,
aromatic, but pungent taste. The melting point gen-
erally lies between 176 and 203 F., that of the tears
and of the almonds being lower than that of the ground-
mass. A low melting-point is accepted as a mark of
quality, Siam benzoin, which is considered the best,
melting at 167 F. Some varieties, for instance, those
recently imported from Singapore, have a pronounced
vanilla-like odor; the presence of vanillin has been
established in. them. The Sumatra benzoin has a
storax-like odor.
Benzoin is sparingly soluble in chloroform, only par-
tially so in ether, and completely in alcohol. On mix-
ing the alcoholic solution with water, the resin is
separated. Petroleum-ether and benzine withdraw only
benzoic acid from the dry, powdered benzoin. All
varieties of benzoin dissolve in concentrated sulphuric
acid to a beautiful purple colored fluid, from which
benzoic acid, if present, is separated in crystals by the
gradual addition of water. The establishment of the
presence of cinnamic acid is best effected as follows:
Boil the sample in milk of lime, filter, and treat the
solution with hydrochloric acid. The precipitate thereby
separated is thoroughly washed, triturated with potas-
sium permanganate and water, and heated, whereby in
the presence of cinnamic acid, oil of bitter almonds is
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 159
formed from the latter, which is readily recognized by
the odor.
If benzoin containing benzoic acid be heated, white
vapors are emitted which, on cold surfaces, deposit in
very delicate, lustrous, acicular, or foliated crystals of
benzoic acid, the so-called benzoin flowers (Floris ben-
zoes.) Benzoic acid thus prepared possesses an agreeable,
vanilla-like odor, since by heating the benzoin the
greater portion of the odoriferous substance contained
in it escapes. Benzoic acid separated by the wet method
is odorless.
Benzoin is especially used for fumigating pastilles.
It is also of great importance on account of its property
of preventing fats from becoming rancid, if added to
them in small quantities.
Peru balsam (Bahamum Peruvianum) is the produce
of the Balsam Coast, San Salvador, Central America,
where Sansonate forms the central point of the industry.
In the mountain forests, back of the coast, grows the
balsam tree (Myroxylon Pereirce, Klotzch ; Toluifene
Pereirce, Battlon), natural order, Papilionaceoe. The
gaining of balsam commences when the tree is five years
old, the collecting time beginning in the dry season in
the first days of November. The trunks of the trees
are belabored with hammers on four places (according
to other statements, on twenty to thirty), so that the
bark is detached in strips. After a few days the bark
thus loosened is burnt off by means of torches, where-
upon a balsamic fluid oozes from the young wood, which
is absorbed by pieces of cloth or rags, placed upon the
denuded places. When the rags are thoroughly satu-
rated with balsam, they are squeezed out and then
160 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
thrown into an earthen pot filled with boiling water,
whereby the balsam is detached and collects on the bot-
tom of the vessel. By this process the Balsamo de trapo
is obtained. By boiling the bark, which falls off, a
small quantity of a poorer quality of balsam, called
tacuasonte, is obtained, which, it would seem, is fre-
quently added to the better quality. Crude Peruvian
balsam is a gray-green to dirty-yellow fluid, of the con-
sistency of syrup. The process of purification in use on
the Balsamic Coast is as follows : The crude balsam is
brought into large iron vessels, holding from 1300 to
1500 Ibs. each, and allowed to clarify by quietly stand-
ing from 8 to 14 days, the heavy impurities settling on
the bottom, while the light dirt, together with the water,
appears as foam on the surface. After 8 to 14 days
the balsam is drawn off through a cock, located about
4f inches above the bottom of the vessel, into a tinned
iron boiler, and boiled over an open fire at a moderate
heat for 2 to 3 hours. The foam which forms is skinned
off, and boiling continued until no more foam appears.
The collection of balsam continues until the first rain
falls in April or May, when the work ceases. A vig-
orous tree, well treated, yields balsam for 30 years in
succession, and if then allowed to rest 5 or 6 years can
be used several years longer. The annual yield of bal-
sam from 100 trees is said to be about 550 Ibs.
From the very odoriferous flowers of the balsam tree
or, according to others, by expressing the fruits, a white
Peruvian balsam is obtained, which is, however, seldom
found in commerce. It is of the consistency of honey,
pale-yellow, smells of vanilla and melilot, and has an
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 161
aromatic bitter taste. On standing for some time it de-
posits crystals of myroxocarpiu.
Ordinary (black) Peruvian balsam is a black-brown
fluid, transparent and dark (honey-yellow in thin
layers), which retains its consistency even after being
kept for years and deposits no crystals. It shows a
slight acid reaction, has an agreeable odor reminding one
of gum benzoin and vanilla, and at first a mild, but, later
on, a sharp and pungent taste.
The specific gravity of pure Peru balsam formerly
varied between 1.14 and 1.16, but at present between
1.135 and 1.145, this change in the specific gravity
being very likely due to a different process of
purification.
Peru balsam is miscible in every proportion with
absolute alcohol, while ether leaves behind undissolved
a black, smeary residue, and hot oils of turpentine or
almonds dissolve only about one-half. It is miscible
with acetone, chloroform, amyl alcohol. By digesting
the balsam with aqueous potash lye, Peru balsam oil,
which constitutes about 60 per cent, of the balsam,
separates on the surface. In an un decomposed 'state the
oil is, according to Kachler, chiefly benzyl, cinnamate,
or cinnamein. The potash solution separated from the
Peru balsam oil, contains cinnamic acid, benzole acid,
and resin. The latter, according to Stotze, can be sepa-
rated into two portions, one soluble, and the other
insoluble, in aqueous alcohol.
Benzine and petroleum-ether dissolve from the Peru
balsam only the nearly colorless cinnamein of which it
contains up to 45 per cent. The behavior of Peru bal-
sam towards bisulphide of carbon is very characteristic,
11
162 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
3 parts of it giving, according to Fliickiger, a clear
solution with 1 part of bisulphide of carbon; if, how-
ever, 8 parts more of the latter be added, up to 30 per
cent, of a dark resin is separated, while the bisulphide
of carbon is but slightly colored.
From San Salvador 11,000 to 13,000 Ibs. of Peru
balsam are annually brought to Europe, it being gen-
erally imported in tin cans, and more rarely in earthen
jars surrounded by a kind of plaited matting. Accord-
ing to whether the product comes by way of England,
New York, Bremen, or Hamburg, it is distinguished as
English, American, Bremen, or Hamburg Peru balsam.
The supply being frequently insufficient, the balsam is
subjected to many adulterations. A cheap, so-called
London Peru balsam always contained colophony and
had a specific gravity of 1.133. There can be no doubt
that pure unadulterated Peru balsam is difficult to
obtain.
As adulterants, are used : Alchohol, volatile oils, fat
oil, especially castor oil; further, copaiba balsam, Canada
balsam, gurjun balsam, storax, benzoin, and asphaltum.
The establishment of these adulterants is connected
with difficulties ; but the properties of Peru balsam
are so characteristic that it is quite easy to detect
whether it is genuine and pure, or not, the specific
gravity and proportions of solubility deserving especial
attention in this respect. The test by the specific
gravity is available, since most of the adulterants render
the balsam specifically lighter, especially alcohol, but
also copaiba balsam (specific gravity, 0.95), castor oil
(0.96), oil of turpentine (0.87), gurjun (0.96), etc. The
customary procedure is as follows : Prepare a common
KESINS AND BALSAMS. 163
salt solution of 1.25 specific gravity, by dissolving 1 part
of dried sodium chloride in 5 parts of distilled water;
drop the balsam into the solution ; every drop of pure
Peru balsam sinks in a roundish form to the bottom ;
but if the drop again comes to the surface and spreads
out upon it, it is a sure sign of some kind of adultera-
tion. However, the change in the specific gravity by
the admixture of fat oils is but very slight, since the
balsam can only be mixed with them to a conformable
fluid in the proportion of from 7 to 10 to 1. Castor oil
forms an exception in this respect, it being miscible also
in other proportions.
Petroleum-ether is an excellent testing agent. Bring
into a test-tube about 2.5 grammes of Peru balsam, and
6 to 7 centimeters of petroleum-ether, close the tube
with the finger and shake vigorously ; a brown, thickly-
fluid mass adheres in unequal layers to the sides of
the tube, and before running together remains in this
position 1 to 2 minutes after the petroleum- ether has
been poured into a porcelain saucer. If, however, the
mass is thinly-fluid, and does not, in the above-mentioned
manner, adhere to the sides of the tube, but, after shak-
ing, collects below the petroleum-ether, the balsam is
adulterated. After shaking, immediately pour off the
petroleum-ether; if the latter is almost colorless, or
but slightly colored yellowish, the balsam is pure ; if,
however, it is turbid, and soon forms a sediment, or if
it is yellow or brownish, or brown, the balsam is adul-
terated.
Alcohol is added either by itself or in the form of
saturated solution of storax, benzoin, or Canada balsam,
by which means the specific gravity of the balsam is but
164 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
slightly changed. Bring the above-mentioned common
salt solution, together with 20 grammes of the Peru
balsam to be examined, into a small flask, and distil off
about 5 grammes ; gradually mix the distillate with 5
drops of caustic potash lye and potassium iodide solu-
tion saturated with iodine, shaking gently until the
mixture acquires a slightly yellow-brownish coloration.
If this coloration does not disappear in one minute,
add drop by drop more of the potash lye until discolora-
tion appears. In the presence of alcohol, yellow crystals
of iodoform, which are readily recognized under the
microscope by their form, collect on the bottom of the
fluid. Adulteration with a volatile oil is recognized in
the distillate by odor and taste.
Fat oil, Canada balsam, copaiba balsam, gurjun bal-
sam, and volatile oil may be recognized by the follow-
ing tests : If pure Peru balsam in a porcelain saucer
is thoroughly mixed with an equal volume of pure con-
centrated sulphuric acid, the mixture thereby becomes
heated, vapors of a pungent odor being emitted, and if
then set aside to cool, it congeals. In the presence of
fat or volatile oils, copaiba balsam, gurjun balsam, or
Canada balsam, it remains, however, more or less thickly
fluid or more or less soft-smeary. If the balsam be
pure, the cold mixture, after washing with water, should
yield a hardish or soft-friable mass, which, when
kneaded with the fingers, should not prove smeary or
sticky.
Fat oils are also very readily recognized by the use
of warm petroleum-ether. The extract is evaporated,
saponified with potash lye, extracted with alcohol, evap-
orated and decomposed with hydrochloric acid. A mix-
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 165
ture of cinnamic acid and any of the fatty acids present
in the Peru balsam is thereby obtained, which, after
treatment with water, remains in the residue.
Of copaiba balsam, Peru balsam can take up as much
as 25 per cent. From such adulterated balsam ben-
zine dissolves the copaiba balsam, together with cinna-
mein, and the adulteration can then be recognized by
the odor. Cinnamein treated with sulphuric acid ac-
quires a cherry-red color, while in the presence of copaiba
balsam or gurjun balsam, a yellow-brown coloration
appears. The detection of an adulteration of Peru bal-
sam with storax is, according to Denner, effected as
follows : Shake in a test-tube 5 parts of the balsam
to be examined with 5 parts of a 15 per cent, soda solu-
tion (soda lye of 1.60 specific gravity) and 10 parts
of water. .Then shake with 15 parts of ether, and
after settling pour off the ether as much as possible.
Repeat the shaking with 15 parts of fresh ether. Now
heat the aqueous residue to boiling, acidulate with
hydrochloric acid, add cold water, remove the resin sepa-
rated thereby from the fluids, dissolve it in about 3 parts
of soda lye of the above-mentioned strength, dilute with
20 parts of water, heat to boiling, and precipitate with
barium chloride solution. Bring the precipitate upon
the filter, and, after allowing it to drain off, dry it in the
water-bath. Then extract it with alcohol, evaporate
the alcoholic extract, take it up with concentrated sul-
phuric acid, add chloroform, and shake. In the presence
of gum benzoin or storax, the chloroform acquires a
violet to blue color. This method is a sure test for the
recognition of even very small admixtures.
A content of asphaltum is readily detected by mixing
166 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
the Peru balsam with ether compounded with about J-
alcohol. Any asphaltum present remains undissolved,
and may be collected upon a filter.
In perfumery Peru balsam is chiefly used for pomades
and fumigating pastilles, but also for cosmetics and
soaps.
Tolu balsam is the produce of Myroxylon toluiferum,
Humb.j Bonpl et Kunth, Toluifera balsamum, L., a
tree of the natural order Papilionacece, growing in
Northwestern South America. It exudes during the
heat of the day, and is collected in gourds. It soon
hardens, by which it is distinguished from Peru balsam.
In commerce two varieties of Tolu balsam are found,
one of the consistency of turpentine and the other solid.
The first variety, Brazilian balsam, forms a semifluid,
turpentine-like, sticky mass, of the color, of copaiba
balsam. By long storage it becomes hard and brownish.
The solid variety, Tolu, or Carthagena balsam, is a
brittle, more or less translucent yellow-brown or red-
brown resin of a granular or crystalline appearance. It
softens at about 86 F., and melts between 140 and
149 F. Viewed under the microscope, it appears rich
in crystals of separated ciannamic and benzoic acids.
Its specific gravity varies between 1 and 2. Both varie-
ties of Tolu balsam have an aromatic, slightly pungent
and sourish taste, resembling somewhat that of Peru
balsam. They are readily soluble in ordinary spirit of
wine, alcohol, acetone, chloroform, and potash lye, but
insoluble in petroleum-ether and bisulphide of carbon.
In Tolu balsam have been found toluene, cinnamic and
benzoic acids, and several resins not yet sufficiently ex-
amined. According to Scharling, toluene constitutes
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 167
about 1 per cent, of the Tolu balsam. It forms a color-
less, limp oil, boils, according to Deville, at 338 F.,
and according to E. Kopp, at between 309 and 320 F.,
and has a specific gravity of 0.858. It has a sharp,
pungent, pepper-like taste, and an odor resembling that
of elemi. In the air, it is gradually converted by
oxidation into a soft resin, without, however, becoming
colored.
On boiling Tolu balsam with water, cinnamic and
benzonic acids are separated from the solution. When
treated with potash lye the resinous acids are fixed, and
the toluene floats upon the fluid.
Commercial Tolu balsam is frequently more or less
mixed with vegetable remains, which, however, can be
readily detected with the microscope, especially after
the solution of the resinous constituents. It is fre-
quently adulterated with turpentine or pine resin.
Such adulterations may be detected by bisulphide of
carbon, which completely dissolves these substances,
but not the Tolu balsam. When pure Tolu balsam is
triturated with concentrated sulphuric acid, a cherry-red
fluid is, according to Ulex, obtained, which does not
evolve sulphurous acid, as is the case in the presence of
turpentine-resins.
Tolu balsam is chiefly used for fumigating pastilles.
The tincture prepared from it is also frequently used
with advantage to give durability to the scent of hand-
kerchief perfumes.
According to Holmes and Nalor, a Tolu balsam dif-
fering in its chemical behavior is found in the English
wholesale trade. In thick layers it is yellow-brown,
but perfectly transparent and gold-yellow in thin layers
168 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
and extraordinarily sticky. By storage it hardens but
slightly, and does not become brittle even if exposed for
several days to a temperature of 212 F. Its odor re-
minds one somewhat of glue, and it develops a pungent,
sharp taste only after chewing it for a few seconds. Its
melting point lies at 136.4 F., being lower than that
of ordinary Tolu balsam, from which it also differs in
that it completely dissolves in ether as well as in ben-
zine, while it is only partially dissolved by potash lye.
The balsam contains no toluene, nor a hydrocarbon,
boiling at 320 F. Further investigations have shown
it actually to be a natural product, the derivation of
which, however, could not be ascertained.
'* Storax is the produce of Liquid ambar orientate, Mill, a
plantain-like tree which reaches a height of about 32 feet.
In Southern Asia Minor, especially in Cyprus, the tree
forms handsome, dense forests. According to Fliickiger,
the balsam is extracted from the peeled-off bark, with
the assistance of warm water. The mass thus melted
out sinks down in the water, and is later on combined
with the substance obtained by expressing the boiled
bark while still warm. This mixture forms the liquid
storax (Storax liquidus). The residue remaining after
expression is dried in the sun and forms, under the
name of Cortex thymiamatis, an article of commerce,
which is used for fumigating purpose, for the prepara-
tion of ordinary storax, etc. The crude storax is brought
to Smyrna, Syra, and Kos, and comes into the European
market almost exclusively from Trieste.
* Liquid storax is a sticky, opaque substance of the con-
sistency of turpentine. It has a mouse-gray color, which
by contact with the air becomes brown on the surface,
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 169
an agreeable benzoin-like odor, and a sharp, pungent,
aromatic taste. It is heavier than water, its specific
gravity being 1.112 to 1.115. On losing its content of
moisture (by drying out when heated) it becomes brown
and clear. When exposed to the air in a thick layer it
does not completely dry, and in a thin layer only after
considerable time ; but when pressed with the finger
always shows a certain stickiness. It is partially solu-
ble in spirits of wine, yielding with it a more or less
turbid solution. It is also incompletely soluble in oil of
turpentine, benzine, petroleum-ether, and chloroform.
Viewed under the microscope liquid storax appears as a
colorless thickish fluid, intermingled with larger and
smaller drops, fragments of bark tissue, and now and
then, perhaps, with crystals of styracin and cinnamic
acid.
Liquid storax contains styrol (10 to 15 per cent.),
styraciu, and cinnamic acid (10 to 15 per cent.). Styrol
or cinnamol seems to be the most important carrier of
the odor and taste of liquid storax. If 20 parts of liquid
storax are subjected to distillation together with 15 parts
of crystallized soda and 200 parts of water, the cinnamol
collects in the form of a yellowish, very mobile liquid
upon the distillate. By rectification it can be obtained
colorless, but is thereby partially converted into meta-
styrol, an isomeric, amorphous, odorless, and tasteless
substance which is solid at an ordinary temperature.
By exposure for some time to a heat of 608 F. it is
reconverted into styrol. Styrol (C 8 H 8 ) forms a clear,
colorless, mobile liquid having an odor of benzine and
naphthalene. Its specific gravity is 0.924 and its boil-
ing point lies at 294.8 F. In water it is but sparingly
1 70 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
soluble, but is miscible in all proportions with anhydrous
spirit of wine, chloroform, benzine, ether, and oils. It
stands in the same relation to cinnamic acid as benzol
to benzoic acid, and is formed by distilling a mixture of
cinnamic acid and barium oxide.
Styracin is cinnyl cinnamate. On distilling liquid
storax with water, styrol passes over. If now from the
residue the cinnamic acid be withdrawn by means of
soda-solution, and the resin, which remains behind, be
treated with cold spirit of wine, styracin is left, which
crystallizes from ether, hot alcohol, or benzol. It forms
colorless, odorless, and tasteless crystals which melt at
113 F. and remain for a long time fluid after melting.
It is insoluble in water, but soluble in 25 parts cold,
and 2 parts boiling, spirit of wine, as well as in 5 parts
ether. By oxidizing substances it is converted into bitter
almond oil and benzoic acid, and by the action of potas-
sium hydroxide it is decomposed to cinnyl alcohol and
cinnamic acid.
Good liquid storax should yield to 90 per cent, alco-
hol at least so much soluble matter that the dried resi-
due of the filtered alcoholic solution amounts to 65 per
cent, of the quantity of storax.
Ordinary liquid storax, which has not been stored too
long, contains 10 to 20 per cent, of water and about the
same quantity of impurities (fragments of plant tissue)
which remain behind on treatment with the above-men-
tioned solvents.
Liquid storax is said to be adulterated with the tur-
pentines of some species of larch and pine. Such adul-
teration is primarily detected, according to Hager, by
the specific gravity. Take up a drop of the balsam
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 171
with a knitting-needle, and by heating the needle make
it fall into a cold solution of 1 part common salt and 8
parts water. On stirring, the drop must sink, otherwise
adulteration with turpentine is very likely. Next bring
5 grammes of the storax into a test-tube, melt it in the
water-bath, add J volume of absolute alcohol, and mix
by shaking ; then compound the mixture with several
times its volume of petroleum -ether, shake vigorously,
allow to settle, and decant the layer of petroleum-ether.
Repeat twice this shaking with petroleum-ether; then
evaporate the petroleum-ether solution in a tared flask
in the water-bath. The residue remaining after evapo-
ration is colorless, bluish opalescent, and of an agreeable
odor ; in the presence of turpentine it is yellowish and
has the, not to be mistaken, odor of turpentine.
Storax in grains consists of round, longish grains of a
brown-black color and smooth, lustrous surface, which
soften by the warmth of the hand. It is nothing but
liquid storax brought into a granular form and by stor-
ing freed more or less from impurities.
Ordinary storax (Styrax calamitus or St. vulgar is) is an
artificial product prepared by mixing liquid storax with
various comminuted vegetable substances. Formerly
the above-mentioned bark of the storax tree (Cortex
thymiamatis) was only used for this purpose, but at
present sawdust and exhausted cinnamon are also
taken. This storax forms a reddish or brown-black,
humus-like mass, which is generally moist. When
dried it is very friable and has a storax-like odor
distinctly calling to mind that of cinnamon. Good
qualities are abundantly covered with crystalline efflor-
escences (of cinnamic acid and styracin) ; poorer quali-
172 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
ties prepared with the addition of sawdust have a musty
odor. The admixed vegetable tissue can, according to
Wiesner, be readily recognized by boiling the storax
with alcohol, and after washing treating with dilute
chromic acid, to which a small quantity of sulphuric
acid has been added.
} Liquid storax was already used for fumigating pur-
poses by the ancient Greeks and Jews, and it forms to-
day a constituent of fumigating pastilles, essences, etc.
Storax tincture furthermore possesses the property of
giving more constancy to scents resembling it. Piesse
says, in regard to the odor of liquid storax, that it com-
bines the agreeable with the disagreeable, it possessing
partially an odor similar to that of the tuberose and
partially one reminding of coal-tar oil. However, it
possesses this disagreeable odor only in a concentrated
state ; when finely divided or diluted, it diffuses a very
agreeable perfume. \y
Under the name American storax, white Peru balsam,
white Indian balsam or liquid ambar is found in com-
merce a product similar to storax, which is derived from
Ijiquicfambar styraciflua, L., a tree indigenous to Mexico
and Louisiana. This balsam forms a clear, transparent,
brownish-yellow, semi-fluid mass. It has a storax-like
odor, and a sharp and pungent taste. It is only
partially soluble in alcohol, specifically lighter than
water, and shows an acid reaction. It is said to consist
of 24 per cent, styracin, 1 per cent, benzoic acid, volatile
oil, etc. It is sometimes used for fumigating purposes,
but chiefly serves for the adulteration of Tolu balsam.
^ Myrrh (Gummi-resina myrrha, Gummi myrrhd) is a
gum resin, the produce of Balsamodendron Ehren-
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 173
bergianum, Berg, and, perhaps, also of Balsamodendron
Myrrha, Nees. The first-named tree is found in the
countries bordering on the Red Sea, and extends into
Africa to the Somali Coast, where the principal supply
of inyrrh is collected. The gum-resin exudes naturally
as a white oil-like mass, which, after hardening, whereby
it becomes considerably darker, is collected by the natives
and brought chiefly to Berbera, a small seaport opposite
Aden, to be exchanged for English and Indian goods.
From there, by way of Aden and Bombay, it reaches
the European market. In Bombay the first sorting
takes place, which is, however, superficial, and hence
has to be repeated in Europe (London). According to
Parker, ten different resins are admixed with myrrh,
especially bdellium resins.
In commerce Myrrha eleda and Myrrha vulgaris or
in sortis are distinguished. Myrrha eleda, the best
quality, occurs in pieces of irregular form and variable
sizes, consisting of tears either distinct or agglomerated
usually covered with a fine powder or dust. The sur-
face is seldom smooth, but generally rough or granular.
The color varies, being pale reddish-yellow, red, or red-
dish-brown. The fracture is conchoidal, seldom smooth,
but rather granular, rough, of a fatty lustre, and some-
times shows whitish striaB or veins, or opalesces like flint.
The fractured edges are more or less translucent ; thin
disks or splinters are translucent or transparent. The
specific gravity is, according to Hager, 1.195 to 1.205,
and according to Ruickholdt, 1.12 to 1.18. A Myrrha
eleda is the better, the more fragile, friable, and paler in
color it is, and the more rapidly it ignites and burns
with a yellow, sooty flame. Poorer qualities may be
174 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
recognized by the dark-brown color and dirty appear-
ance. Myrrh is with difficulty rubbed to a fine powder,
this being possible only after drying, which must, how-
ever, be done at a very moderate heat in order to pre-
vent loss of volatile oil.
According to Hager, myrrh consists in 100 parts of
about 2.5 parts volatile oil (myrrhol), 25 to 35 parts
resin (myrrhin), 55 to 65 parts gum soluble in water,
3 to 8 parts salts, impurities, and water. Water forms
with myrrh an emulsion, and dissolves the gum. The
resinous constituents are dissolved by spirit of wine.
The gum, which forms the portion of the myrrh
soluble in water, but insoluble in alcohol, and amounts
to from 57 to 59 per cent., is, according to Oscar Koehler,
a hydrocarbpn of the formula C 6 H, O 5 . The portion
soluble in alcohol is, according to the same chemist, a
mixture of various resins, an indiiferent soft resin of the
formula C 26 H 34 O 5 , soluble in alcohol and ether, forming
the greater portion of it. There are further present
two resin acids, one of which has to be considered a
bibasic acid of composition C 12 H 16 O 8 , and the other as a
monobasic acid of the formula C 26 H 32 O 9 . The principal
constituent of the volatile oil of which, according to
Koehler, 7 to 8 per cent, is present, while Euickholdt
formerly found only 2.18 per cent, corresponds to the
formula C, H 14 O. The volatile oil is laevorotatory, and
when diluted with bisulphide of carbon becomes, accord-
ing to Fliickiger, violet by the action of bromine. An
extract of myrrh, prepared with bisulphide of carbon,
gives the same reaction with bromine vapor. Hydro-
chloric or nitric acid also colors myrrh violet, which
also applies to the volatile oil.
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 175
Petroleum-ether should, at the utmost, take up 6 per
cent, of the myrrh, and the extract must be colorless.
Myrrh is frequently contaminated with bark, which
forms either a film of cork as thick as paper or a crust
of a fibrous and, at the same time, brittle nature. Sand
or small pebbles are also frequently mixed with the
myrrh. Other varieties of gum or gum-resin, which
considerably decrease the value of the product, are often
found in the commercial article, the inferior qualities espe-
cially being adulterated and mixed with dark pieces of
Suakim gum, gum of the plum or cherry tree, bdellium,
and similar substances, which are partially moistened
with myrrh tincture, and scattered over with myrrh
powder. Adulteration with gum-arabic, gum of the
plum or cherry tree, which are coated with alcoholic
myrrh solution, is recognized by the paler lustre, greater
transparency, and mucilaginous taste. Pieces of resin
melt on heating, while myrrh only swells up. Bdellium
is detected by the dark or black-brown color, toughness,
less bitter taste, and by crackling and spitting when held
in the flame of a candle, as well as by the reaction of
myrrh with nitric acid discovered by Bonastre. By mix-
ing 5 cubic centimeters of alcoholic myrrh tincture with
5 to 10 drops of fuming nitric acid, a rose-color coloration
passing into red results. Parker gives the following
method for testing myrrh : Prepare a tincture of 1 part
myrrh and 6 parts spirit of wine. Saturate with this
tincture white filtering paper, allow it to drain off, and
then wrap it around a glass rod moistened with nitric
acid of 1.42 specific gravity. With genuine myrrh the
paper immediately becomes deep yellow-brown and then
black, while the edges of the paper strip appear dark
176 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
purple-red. When a few drops of the tincture of myrrh
are allowed to dry in, a transparent residue remains
behind. The tinctures of spurious articles (with the ex-
ception of bissabol) give turbid residues.
V Myrrh was already in Moses's time an article used in
the sacrifices of the Israelites. It seems to have been
made use of by Democrates. Dioscorides enumerates
eight varieties of it, and Pliny seven, which he ob-
tained from Abyssinia. Herodotus and Diodorus
Siculus mention Arabia as the home of the myrrh tree.
\In perfumery, myrrh is chiefly used for dentifrices
and fumigating pastilles and essences., '
Opopanax is the inspissated juice of the root of Opo-
ponax Chironium, Koch, or Ferula Opoponax, L. It
forms grains or lumps of a red-yellow or brown color,
and has a fracture of a waxy lustre. It can be rubbed
to a gold-yellow powder. It has a strong and peculiar
odor, and a very bitter and balsamic taste. With water
it forms an emulsion, while it is only partially soluble
in spirit of wine. It contains very little volatile oil,
and a resin which melts at 212 F., and is soluble in
ether and aqueous alkalies. It further contains gum,
organic and inorganic salts, and foreign admixtures.
Opopauax is but little used in perfumery. For Extraits
the opopanax oil is better adapted than the tincture pre-
pared from the gum, the latter coloring the JExtraitdark.
^ Olibanum or Frankincense is the inspissated juice of va-
rious varieties of Boswellia, partially indigenous to Africa
and partially to Asia. The pu re pieces are pale yellow, sel-
dom reddish, transparent, or opaque, brittle, covered with
a mealy coating and of a splintery fracture. The specific-
gravity of olibanum is 1.22 ; its odor is slightly balsamic,
and its taste bitter and pungent. It melts only incom-
RESINS AND BALSAMS. 177
pletely when exposed to heat, diffusing an agreeable odor.
It consists in 100 parts of 5 to 7 parts of a clear volatile
oil, boiling at 323.6 F., and of specific gravity 0.86, 56
parts of acid resin, and 30 to 36 parts gum, which corre-
sponds with gum-arabic. With water it forms a milky
fluid, and is mostly dissolved by spirit of wine. Selected
olibanum (Olibanum electum) is the best commercial va-
riety, while Olibanum naturale, 0. in lacrymis, and 0.
in sortisj form darker pieces intermingled with separate
paler grains, and contaminated by pieces of bark, and
wood and sand.
Olibanum is only adulterated with saudarac and
naturally exuded pine resin, inspissated to tears by ex-
posure to the air. The former is recognized by the
fracture being glassy and transparent, and the latter by
completely dissolving to a clear solution in spirit of wine.
Olibanum serves as an addition to fumigating pas-
tilles, etc.
Sandarac is the resin exuding from the bark of Thuja
artieulata, Desf., or CaUitris quadrivalvis, Vent., which
grows in Barbary. It forms pale yellow, transparent,
brittle grains with a glassy fracture, which have a spe-
cific gravity of 1.06 to 1.09 and fuse readily. Its odor
is slightly balsamic and its taste somewhat bitter. San-
darac softens at 212 F. and melts at 275 F. It dis-
solves in hot absolute alcohol, ether, and amyl alcohol,
is less soluble in chloroform, petroleum-ether, and vola-
tile oils, and insoluble in benzol. In 90 per cent, alco-
hol | of it dissolve ; the term sandaracin has been ap-
plied to the insoluble portion. According to Unver-
dorben, sandarac consists of three different resins. It
is sometimes employed in fumigating pastilles.
12
178 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER VI.
PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM.
MUSK is a peculiar concrete secretion obtained from
Moschus mochiferus, L., an animal bearing a close re-
semblance to the deer in shape and size, and indigenous
to the high plateaus of Asia. The musk is contained
in an oval, hairy, projecting sac, found only in the
male, situated between the umbilicus and the prepuce.
It is from 2 to 3 inches long and from 1 to 2 broad.
In commerce, several varieties of musk are distin-
guished, the principal ones, however, being Tonkin and
Kabardin musk.
Tonkin, Thibet, or Oriental music, Yunnan music (Mos-
chus tonquinensis, or wientalis, or transgangetanus) is the
best variety. It comes from China, Tonkin, and Thibet.
It consists of sacs of a puifed-up appearance, more round-
ish than longish, varying in size, being at the utmost 1.77
inches long, up to 1.57 inches broad and 0.59 to 1.18
inches thick, and weighing from 8.46 drachms to 1 oz.
9.39 drachms each. The hairy side of the sac is con-
cave and the other flat. Fig. 21 shows an unshorn
Tonkin musk sac of medium size from the concave or
hairy side and Fig. 22 the same from the side. The
envelop of the sac consists of a double skin, the outer
skin being gray-brown. One side of the sac is covered
with stiff, yellowish hair with red-brown points, gener-
PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 179
ally cut short. The original packages, containing usu-
ally 24 sacs each, consist of longish, four-cornered
boxes lined with lead-foil and covered outside with
some silken stuff. Each sac is separately wrapped in
tissue paper. The musk-substance appears as a dark
red to black-brown mass intermingled with hair, and
forming roundish grains. The odor is penetrating and
the taste bitter.
Kabardm, Siberian, or Russian musk (Moschus sibirius,
or cabardinicus) is a cheaper variety of an inferior qual-
ity, which is brought from Mongolia and Siberia. The
sacs (Fig. 23) are longish, generally pear-shaped, flatter
in proportion to their longitudinal and latitudinal dimen-
sions, and not of a puffed-up appearance, the surface
being frequently even shrivelled or wrinkled. The outer
FIG. 21.
FIG. 22.
FIG. 23.
skin is denser and harder,, and on the convex side cov-
ered with longer hair (up to 0.9 inch long), of nearly a
silver or brownish color. Towards the edge of the sac
the hairs are, however, frequently so trimmed and shorn
180 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
as to give the sac a resemblance to the Tonkin article.
The musk-substance inclosed in the sac amounts to from
8.46 drachms to 1 oz. It is somewhat paler, more
brown or yellow-brown, soft, almost unctuous, when
fresh, but after storing, solid or granular-pulverulent,
like ground, burnt coffee. The odor is weak, offensive,
more urinose, resembling that of castor, or horse sweat.
Moschus ex vesicis is said to be the musk taken from
Tonkin sacs. As a rule, however, it consists of a mix-
ture of musk substance taken from good sacs which pre-
sent a bad appearance, or have been torn, and from sacs
of an inferior quality, frequently adulterated with for-
eign substances, such as dried blood, dung of birds,
weathered bicarbonate of soda, etc.
To open a musk sac, cut it with a sharp penknife
around where the hairless side joints the hairy side, and
empty it by scraping it out upon a sheet of paper. The
membranes and hair are then removed by means of
pincers.
The musk-substance of the Tonkin sacs is generally
a heavy, dry-feeling mass; it is partially intermingled
with and partially enveloped by small, thin, soft, brown,
somewhat transparent membranes and frequently mixed
with small hair. It is partially loose and crummy, and
partially consists of various lumps or grains of the size
of a mustard seed to that of a pea, which are more or
less roundish, more seldom angular, softer or harder
(but can always be readily cut), of a fatty lustre and
black-brown or dark-red color. In fresh sacs, the mass
is frequently soft, and, when bruised, somewhat smeary,
but never unctuous. On rubbing, it becomes paler in
color, and glistening hair-like, paler, gray or whitish-
PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 181
yellow particles, sometimes of a crystalline texture,
appear. The odor of the musk substance is peculiar,
strong, and very constant; it is agreeable only when
much diluted.
Musk is not a substance of a constant chemical and
physical constitution, the reason for this being found in
the age and the different foods of the musk animal, the
season in which it is killed, and the degree of dryness
of the musk-substance. Water dissolves f of good
musk and 90 per cent, alcohol J. The alcoholic solu-
tion is not precipitated by water. Musk further con-
tains fat-like substances, wax, gall-substances (together
10 to 12 per cent.), glue-substances and albumen (6 to
9 per cent.), traces of lactic and butyric acids, phosphates,
sulphates and hydrochlorates of the alkalies and alkaline
earths, frequently strong traces of ammonium carbonate
and a volatile oil, further moisture, humus-substance,
and fibrous matter.
Musk, when dried, has a weak odor, which gradually
becomes stronger on moistening. There are several sub-
stances which destroy the musk odor, especially bitter
almonds, camphor, sulphur, acids and sulphates. The
odor adhering to a mortar in which musk has been
rubbed can best be removed by pounding bitter almonds
in it.
Since, on account of the high price of musk, the musk
animal is much hunted, there is a possibility of it be-
oming in time extinct. For this reason a substitute
has been long searched for, and is believed to have
been found, especially, in the American musk-rat
(Fiber zibdhicus), which is chiefly hunted for its skin.
In this animal the musk is found in two small sacs
182 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
located between the anus and generative organs, and is
emitted when the animal becomes excited. According
to R. S. Cristiani, this musk is invaluable for the
toilet soap industry of America, it being nearly as good
and strong as genuine musk. Cristiani has formerly
used much of it for scenting soaps, powders, etc., but
does not recommend it for essences. When used for
soaps, some time is required for the odor to become re-
fined, and if a piece of soap scented with it is stored
for a few months, it would, according to Crist iani's
assertion, be difficult even for an expert perfumer to
distinguish the odor from that of genuine Tonkin musk.
As possible substitutes for the musk deer may further
be mentioned a species of rat indigenous to the West
Indies, and an antelope of North Africa. It is also
said that musk derived from the Mississippi alligator
has been brought into commerce. The sacs are said to
be small, the odor somewhat different from that of
genuine musk, resembling that of civet, but suitable for
perfuming purposes.
A process for the preparation of artificial musk has
been patented by Dr. Baur, of Gispersleben. According
to the specification, toluol is mixed with the halogen
compounds of butane and boiled with the addition of
aluminium chloride or aluminium bromide. The pro-
duct of the reaction is mixed with water and distilled
with steam. The fraction passing over between 338 and
392 F. is caught and treated with fuming nitric acid
and fuming sulphuric acid. The product obtained is
washed with water and alcohol, and crystallized. The
artificial musk forms an amorphous white powder,
which in time becomes yellow. It is readily soluble
PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 183
in 90 per cent, alcohol, but from solutions in weaker
alcohol it again crystallizes out at a cool temperature.
The odor becomes very pronounced after the addition of
5 drops of ammonia to 1 pound of a one per cent,
solution.
This artificial product having been in existence but
for a short time, it is not possible to come to a final con-
clusion as to its availability. However, its odor differs
essentially from that of the genuine article, and it can
scarcely be employed for fine extracts; if low enough in
price it might, however, be suitable for soaps and
cheaper perfumes.
Musk is very much adulterated, the Chinese being
adepts in this sophistication. Dried blood, on account
of its resemblance to musk, is among the most common
adulterations, but, besides this, sand, iron filings, hair,
the dung of birds, wax, asphaltum, and many other
substances are introduced. They are mixed with a
small portion of musk, the powerful odor of which is
communicated to the entire mass, and renders the dis-
covery of the fraud sometimes difficult. The bags con-
taining the musk should have the characteristics before
described as belonging to the natural sac, and present
no sign of having been opened. One of the grossest
frauds, which is also perpetrated in Europe, consists,
according to Hager, in perforating the musk sac with a
needle, placing it in strong rum or weak spirit of wine,
and, after pressing it with the fingers, washing with spirit
of wine and drying in the air. By this means a tincture
suitable for perfuming purposes is obtained, while the
musk-substance is increased in weight by the absorption
of moisture. Sacs thus treated are, however, readily
184 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
recognized, they being, after drying, gnarled and un-
even.
Good musk-sacs should yield from 50 to 60 per cent,
of musk. An admixture of blood is detected by the
musk acquiring a putrid odor when moistened with
water. The presence of pieces of metal, pebbles, resin,
etc., is recognized by the naked eye or with the assistance
of a magnifying glass. The microscope reveals, in pure
musk, white and brownish, irregularly-formed grains,
cells, oil drops, and, generally, also fungoid threads.
Genuine musk burns with a white flame and leaves a
gray ash, which should not amount to more than from
5 to 8 per cent.
In perfumery musk is used for soap, sachet powders,
and extracts. By itself it is, however, scarcely employed,
not even for the so-called musk soaps or musk extracts.
It is chiefly valued by the perfumer for its property of
rendering other perfumes used in combination with it
more durable and bringing out their scent. For scent-
ing soaps the musk must first be prepared. If to be
used for milled soaps, it is triturated in a mortar with
clear sugar, while for cold stirred soaps, weak potash
lye of at the utmost 3 to 5 Be. is poured over it.
Weak lye makes the odor more pronounced, while strong
lye destroys it.
^ Civet (zibethum) is derived from two animals of the
AM genus Viverra. The actual civet cat ( Viverra eivetta, L.)
lives in the hottest parts of Africa from the Guinea Coast
and the Senegal to Abyssinia, where it is carefully bred
for its civet. The product is also obtained from Viverra
zibetha, L., indigenous to the Moluccas and Philippines.
The civet is secreted in a cavity between the anus and
PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 185
the external genitals, and is scraped out with a spoon.
It is serai-liquid, unctuous, yellowish, becoming brown
and thicker by exposure to the air, of a bitter, disagree-
able, fatty taste, and of a peculiar, urinose, disagreeable
odor, resembling that of musk which becomes agree-
able only when much diluted and mixed with other
perfumes. When ignited it burns with a bright flame,
leaving behind 3 to 4 per cent, of ash. It is insoluble
in water; in spirit of wine it partially dissolves with
difficulty, and with greater ease in warm ether and in
chloroform. It should form a homogeneous, non-crum-
bling mass. According to M. Boutron Chalard, it con-
tains free ammonia, stearin, olein, mucus, resin, a yellow
coloring substance, salts, and a volatile oil, the latter
giving the odor to it. In perfumery, civet is chiefly used
as an addition to other perfumes in order to strengthen
them and make them more constant. It is also employed
for perfuming fine leather articles. l
Castor or castweum is a peculiar concrete substance
obtained from Castor fiber or the beaver. In both sexes
between the anus and external genitals
are two pear-shaped sac-like follicles FIG. 24.
(Fig. 24) united at their thin ends.
The follicles contain, when fresh, a
semi-liquid substance which becomes
more solid by drying. The castor oc-
curring in commerce is generally dried
by smoke.
In commerce two principal varieties
are distinguished : Siberian or Russian
and Canadian, English or American castor, the first
being the mo&t valuable. The length of a Siberian sac
186 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
varies between 2.36 and 4.72 inches, the width between
0.98 and 2.55 inches, and the thickness between 0.78
and 1.57 inches; it weighs from 1.76 to 8.81 ozs. One
of the sacs is generally somewhat smaller than the other.
The exterior skin of the sac is almost smooth and, in a
dry state, dark brown ; the interior is dirty yellow, inter-
mixed with a dense cellular tissue, which envelops the
castor-substance and is grown together with it. In a
dried state, the latter is dark brown, without lustre,
almost friable, of a very strong, peculiar odor, and a
pungent, somewhat bitter, aromatic taste.
The sacs of Canadian castor are smaller than the
Siberian, they being at the utmost 3.15 inches long,
0.98 inch thick, and darker and uneven. The interior
mass is resinous, hard, with a lustrous fracture, red-
brown, and can be readily pulverized. The odor is
weaker, somewhat musty and ammoniacal, and the taste
more bitter and less pungent than that of the Siberian
castor.
Castor is much adulterated pebbles, pieces of lead,
dried blood, etc., being frequently found in the sacs.
These frauds can generally be detected in cutting the sac?
open. Spurious sacs are said to be frequently found
among the genuine sacs of Canadian castor. These
spurious sacs are prepared by drying a mixture of castor,
resin, dragons' blood, etc., in the scrotum of goats.
In perfumery, castor is now very seldom used, the
perfumers preferring musk and civet, which, certainly,
give a somewhat different scent.
Ambergris is a fatty, waxy substance, often found float-
ing on the sea on the coasts of Arabia, Madagascar, Japan,
etc. It is also found in the caecum of the sperm whale
PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM ANIMAL KINGDOM. 187
(Physetus macrocephalus, Schow)^ and is supposed by
some to be a morbid secretion in the urinary bladder.
According to Mr. Beale, it merely consists of the indu-
rated faeces of the animal, perhaps somewhat altered by
disease. It has a gray-white color, often with a black
streak and a slight agreeable odor, like that of benzoin,
which becomes more pronounced on heating. When
held for some time in the hand it becomes soft and
flexible. It melts at the temperature of boiling water,
and, when more strongly heated, volatilizes in the form
of a white vapor, leaving but slight traces of ash behind.
Its specific gravity is 0.8 to 0.9. It is insoluble in
water, sparingly soluble in cold spirit of wine, and
more readily so in hot spirit of wine, ether and volatile
and fat oils. It is almost completely soluble in absolute
alcohol. Though ambergris crumbles readily, it can
only with difficulty be converted into coarse powder.
With the finger it can be polished like hard soda-soap.
The principal constituent of ambergris is ambrin or
ambrein, a non-saponifiable fat, which, from a saturated
alcoholic solution of ambergris, crystallizes, after stand-
ing for some time, in the form of verrucose, whitish or
lustrous acicular crystals. According to John, ambergris
consists of 85 per cent, ambrin, 12.5 per cent, sweet
balsamic extract, further benzoic acid, sodium chloride,
and 1.5 per cent, insoluble brown residue. When dis-
tilled with water, ambergris yields 13 per cent, of a
volatile oil having an agreeable odor. A red-hot iron
wire readily penetrates ambergris, and from the hole thus
made flows an oily liquid of a strong and agreeable
odor.
On account of its high price, ambergris is frequently
188 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
adulterated, the commercial article being often nothing
but an artificial mixture of benzoin, olibanum, wax, and
flo'ur, with other substances, perfumed with musk. Such
adulterations are detected by the appearance, proportions
of solubility, nature of the fracture and the content of
ash. A small quantity of pure ambergris, exposed to
heat, melts without forming bubbles or scum. It is
easily punctured with* a heated needle, which, when
withdrawn, should come out clean and without anything
adhering to it, and the characteristic odor of ambergris
should be immediately evolved. The surface should be
rugged, that with a smooth and uniform surface being
generally factitious.
In perfumery, ambergris is not so much used on
account of its agreeable odor, but rather to make the
perfumes more constant.
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 189
CHAPTER VII.
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS.
IN speaking of the volatile oils used in perfumery,
two artificial perfume-materials, artificial oils of bitter
almonds and wintergreen have already been mentioned.
There can be no doubt that when the chemical construc-
tion of volatile oils is better known, chemistry will suc-
ceed in preparing still more such combinations, valuable
for perfumery, or in converting cheap volatile oils into
more valuable ones, as has, for instance, been done by
Bouchardat and Lafont, who have successfully converted
oil of turpentine into oil of lemons. These chemists
rectified French oil of turpentine at exactly 311 to
314.6 F., dissolved in the distillate, which amounted
to 120 grammes, an equal quantity (120 grammes) of
glacial acetic acid, cooled the mixture and then carefully
added, so that the temperature never exceeded 104 F.,
88 grammes of crystallized chromic acid dissolved in a
sufficient quantity of acetic acid. Notwithstanding that
the greater portion of the oil of turpentine remained un-
oxidized, a thorough reaction took place, and the product
of decomposition proved to be a hydrocarbon, boiling at
from 345.2 to 352.4 F., to which Bouchardat and
Lafont have applied the term "terpilene." The prop-
erties of this hydrocarbon, especially its boiling point,
corresponded with those of oil of lemons, its odor also
190 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
resembling that of the latter, but it contained about one-
sixth cymol which it was impossible to remove. Though
thus far this artificial oil of lemons is of no importance
for perfumery, it is of interest as showing the possibility
of converting one volatile oil into another.
The artificial musk, spoken of under " Musk/ 7 cannot
be classed with the previously-mentioned artificial per-
fumed-materials. The odoriferous principle of the
natural and artificial musk have nothing in common,
the odor depending not on a common chemical com-
bination.
Besides the artificial perfume-materials already men-
tioned, but a few others are employed in perfumery,
viz : Cumarin, hetiotropin, vanillin, and nitrobenzol, or
oil of mirbane. Another series of artificial perfume-
materials, the so-called fruit ethers, have also been
recommended for perfumery purposes. Although such
products are sometimes used, their employment is not
advisable, since they produce an irritating effect upon
the bronchial tubes and respiratory organs, and fre-
quently cause headache.
Cumarin. The agreeable odor of new-mown hay is
chiefly due to the sweet-scented vernal grass (Anthoxan-
thum odoratum, Z.). This grass contains an odoriferous
substance, the cumarin. The latter is also found in
many other plants ; for instance, in the tonka bean (the
seeds of Dipterix odorata), in the sweet woodruff (As-
perula odorata), and, combined with melilotic acid, in
the melilot (Melilotus officinalis, Descr.).
Cumarin forms small, colorless crystals of a silky
lustre. It is very hard, cracks between the teeth,
shows a smooth fracture, and sinks in water. It has
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 191
a very agreeable aromatic odor, which, on rubbing the
substance with the fingers, becomes like that of oil of
bitter almonds, and has a bitter, warm, and pungent taste.
When pure it melts at 152.6 F., but when containing
fat, like that separated from tonka beans, at from 104
to 122 F. Its boiling point lies at 554 F. ; it vola-
tilizes, however, at far lower temperatures, diffusing an
odor resembling that of oil of bitter almonds, and sub-
limating in white needles. It is soluble in alcohol,
ether, acetic acid, fat, and volatile oils. Of cold water
(59 F.) 400 parts are, according to Buchner, required
for its solution, but of boiling water only 45 parts.
Tonka beans are the ripe seeds of Dipterix odorata.
They are much used in perfumery on account of their
content of cumarin, aud formerly constituted the initial
point for its manufacture. In commerce two varieties
are distinguished, viz., Dutch tonka beans, derived from
Dipterix odorata, Willd., indigenous to the forests of
Guiana, and English tonka beans, from Dipterix oppo-
sitifolia, Willd., indigenous to Cayenne.
The Dutch tonka bean is 1.18 to 1.57 inches long,
0.39 to 0.59 inch wide, and 0.27 to 0.43 inch thick. It
is generally slightly curved, provided under the point
with the hilum, and covered with a thin, fragile, brown-
black or black skin of a fatty lustre, upon which small
crystals of cumarin are generally found, so that it ap-
pears coated, especially in the wrinkles, with a whitish
dust. The kernel consists of two yellow-brownish oleife-
rous catyledons, between which layers of cumarin are
generally found. The odor is agreeable, resembling
that of melilot, and the taste aromatic bitter. Dutch
tonka beans contain fat, sugar, malic acid, and malate
192 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
of lime ; further, starch, gum, and 1 to 5 per cent, of
cumarin (C 9 H 6 O ). The English tonka beans are
smaller, white-yellowish inside, nearly black outside,
and of inferior quality to the Dutch beans.
From tonka beans, cumarin may be obtained by two
different methods. One method consists in repeatedly
extracting the bruised beans with spirit of wine, distill-
ing the latter off from the extract, and mixing the resi-
due with cold water, whereby cumarin contaminated
with fat is precipitated. To remove the fat, bring the
whole to the boiling point, filter the hot solution
through a moist filter upon which the fat is retained,
and allow to cool, whereby the greater portion of the
cumarin crystallizes out; the remaining small portion
is obtained by evaporating the mother-lye.
According to the other method, the bruised tonka
beans are distilled with water. After 24 hours the
greater portion of the cumarin separates in a crystalline
form. The residue remaining in solution can be with-
drawn from the water by shaking with petroleum-ether
and subsequent evaporation of the solvent. From one
pound of good tonka beans, up to 4 drachms of cumarin
may be obtained.
Cumarin is sometimes also obtained by purifying by
recrystallization the debris found in the original boxes
of tonka beans, which chiefly consists of cumarin.
Perkin has recently succeeded in artificially preparing
cumarin from salicylic acid. By boiling the sodium
salt of the latter in acetic anhydride for a few minutes
and then pouring into water, an oil-like body is sepa-
rated, whilst sodium acetate passes into solution. The
former is a mixture of acetic anhydride, salicylic acid
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 193
and curaariD ; in distilling, the latter passes over last
(at 554 F.), and congeals in the receiver to a crystalline
mass.
Cumarin is now synthetically prepared by several
firms, that brought into the market by Schimmel & Co.,
of Leipsic, especially being of excellent quality. Al-
though artificial cumarin is considerably lower in price
than that obtained from tonka beans, most perfumers
still prefer the extract from tonka beans prepared by
themselves. There is, however, no good reason for this,
since a change in the respective receipts for perfumes
presents no difficulties, 8.46 drachms of curnarin corre-
sponding to 2.2 Ibs. of best tonka beans.
Heliotropin or piper onal is of great importance in
the manufacture of perfumes. It forms small, colorless
prismatic crystals, which have an agreeable odor of heli-
otrope. Upon the tongue heliotropin produces the same
sensation as oil of peppermint under the same conditions,
the sensation being, however, more lasting. It melts at
about 104 F., and volatilizes at a higher temperature
without leaving a residue. It is soluble in alcohol and
ether, and insoluble in cold water ; in hot water it melts
to an oily liquid which floats upon the water.
Exposed to the action of heat and air, heliotropin ac-
quires an uncomely appearance, balls together and, under
very unfavorable circumstances, turns brown. It is
then entirely decomposed and useless, and, hence, should
be kept in summer in as cool a place as possible. A
temperature of 95 F. has already an injurious effect
upon the perfume, and it is best not to buy it at all in
the hot summer months. To preserve the perfume in
its entire freshness, it is advisable for consumers in hot
13
194 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
climates to at once dissolve the heliotropin in alcohol
and to keep the solution in a cool place.
Pepper serves as the initial point for heliotropin or
piperonal, the white variety being the best for the pur-
pose. To obtain piperine, contained in varying quan-
ties (7 to 9 per cent.) in pepper, the latter is repeatedly
extracted with boiling alcohol. The extract is then
evaporated to one-third its volume, or the greater por-
tion of the alcohol is distilled off, and the resinous mass,
obtained after the addition of water, is repeatedly washed
in water with the addition of a small quantity, of potash
or soda lye, dissolved in alcohol and purified by repeated
recrystallization. To convert the white-yellow piperine
thus obtained into potassium piperate it is, together with
equal parts of potassium hydroxide and 5 to 6 parts of
alcohol, kept gently boiling for 24 hours in a well-closed
flask provided with an ascending Liebig cooler. A ca-
pacious flask should be used, as the mass pounds quite
vigorously. After cooling, the precipitate, which is ob-
tained in yellowish, lustrous lamina, is separated through
a filter from the dark-brown mother-lye, washed with
cold alcohol and several times recry stall i zed from hot
water. A further discoloration may be effected by the
addition of animal charcoal.
The potassium piperate thus obtained forms nearly
colorless prisms in verucose groups, which, however,
turn yellow when exposed to light. By boiling the
alcoholic mother-lye with -J of the previously used potash-
lye, further small quantities of potassium piperate may
be obtained.
To obtain piperonal from the potassium piperate, dis-
solve 1 part of the latter in 40 to 50 parts of hot water,
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 195
and then slowly introduce, with constant stirring, a solu-
tion of 2 parts potassium permanganate in 50 parts of
water. This precaution is absolutely necessary, as other-
wise the piperonal formed would be partially further oxi-
dized and lost. The paste-like mass formed is passed,
while still hot, through a straining cloth, and the residue
repeatedly washed with boiling water until it shows
nothing more of the characteristic odor of heliotrope.
The wash-waters are combined with the first filtrate,
and subjected to distillation over a free fire.
The first distillates are richest in piperonal, it gener-
ally separating already in the cooler. The fractionally
caught distillate is allowed to stand one or two days in
as cool a place as possible, whereby the greater portion
of the piperonal separates in a crystalline form or in fine
lamina. To obtain the piperonal still remaining dis-
solved in the water, the mother-lye, after the separation
of the crystals through a filter, may be repeatedly agi-
tated with ether, whereby the piperonal dissolves in the
ether. The latter is carefully distilled off at as low a
temperature as possible (104 to 122 F.) in the water-
bath or allowed naturally to evaporate.
Vanillin. Vanilla is the not entirely ripe, pod-like,
capsular fruit (wrongly called pod), of a tropical orchid
(Vanilla plani/olia, Andrews), which is cultivated in
Mexico, the West Indies, and South America. It is
extensively used for flavoring, and its odoriferous sub-
stance is highly valued in perfumery. The cross-section
of the capsule is thick and fleshy, filled with very small,
black, lustrous seeds stuck together by a gummy balsam
with which they are coated. The capsule has a sourish
taste and has no value, the seeds, or rather the balsam
196 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
enveloping the seeds, being the substance on which the
odor and taste of vanilla depend. When the vanilla
fruit becomes ripe, the capsule opens and empties its
content of seeds in the form of a balsam-like mass.
The lustrous black-brown surface of vanilla is
frequently coated with white, delicate crystals, which
were formerly taken for benzoic acid. Bley and Vee
first recognized them as a peculiar substance, which was
further examined by Gobley and Stokkebye. This sub-
stance, to which Gobley applied the term vanillin, is the
chief ordoriferous substance of vanilla. It is deposited
upon the vanilla-crystals, when the latter are densely
and closely packed together and for some time exposed
to a heat of about 77 F. Of vanillin, vanilla contains
1.5 to 2.75 per cent.; the Mexican variety containing
1.69 to 1.32 per cent., the Bourbon No. I, 2.48 to 1.91
per cent., Bourbon No. II, 1.55 to 0.75 per cent., and
the Java, 2.75 to 1.56 per cent. It is singular, that the
highly valued Mexican vanilla has, generally speaking,
a lower content of vanillin than the other varieties.
At present, vanillin is prepared artificially. Tiemann
and Harmann first showed that by the oxidation of
coniferin, a glucoside occurring in the cambial sap of the
Coniferce, a product, perfectly identical with the vanillin
prepared from vanilla, is obtained. The coniferin is
obtained by barking the pine or silver fir, scraping
together the sap under the bark together with a portion
of the liber and pouring it into a vessel. The sap is
then pressed off', boiled to separate the albumin, filtered,
evaporated to one-fifth its volume, and set aside to
crystallize. One hundred quarts of sap are said to yield
from 1 to 2 pounds of coniferm-crystals. By now
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 197
allowing an aqueous coniferin-solution to run into a
heated mixture of 10 parts potassium bichromate, 15
parts, concentrated sulphuric acid, and 80 parts water,
and heating for 3 hours in a flask with back-flow cooler,
a liquid is obtained from which ether takes up a yellow
oil. After treating the latter with animal charcoal, dis-
solving in ether and evaporating the latter, there remain
colorless, acicular crystals of the odor and taste of
vanilla. These crystals consist of vanillin contaminated
with some vanillic acid. To separate the latter, purify
with acid sodium sulphite and recrystallize. After this
operation, vanillin represents a nearly white crystalline
powder which melts at from 176 to 177.8 F. In
this form it is brought into commerce as a complete sub-
stitute for vanilla, 5.64 drachms of it corresponding to
about 1 pound of vanilla. A medium-sized pine tree
is said to yield vanillin of the value of 80 marks
($19.20).
Vanillin may also be prepared by oxidation from
eugenol. Oil of cloves is diluted with three times its
volume of ether and agitated with weak caustic potash
solution to fix the eugenol on the potash. By acidulat-
ing the alkaline solution and shaking with ether, the
eugenol is collected. After distilling 0ff the ether, the
eugenol is converted with acetic anhydride into aceteugol,
and the latter oxidized with dilute, moderately-warmed
potassium permanganate solution. The filtrate is made
slightly alkaline, concentrated, then compounded with
acid and the vanillin extracted with ether.
Vanillin (C 8 H 8 O 3 ) forms small colorless prisms of a
strong vanilla odor, a warm, vanilla taste, and an acid
reaction. It is readily soluble in hot water, alcohol,
198 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
ether, chloroform, fat and volatile oils, as well as in
solutions of caustic alkalies and alkaline carbonates. It
melts when heated to from 176 to 177.8 F. ; at a
higher temperature it sublimates without leaving a
residue.
According to a notice published in the "Deutsch-
Amerikanischen Apotheker Zeitung," vanillin adulterated
with benzoic acid has occurred in the United States. A
sample subjected to examination is said to have been
nothing but benzoic acid perfumed with vanillin. Such
an adulteration can be detected with the microscope,
since vanillin crystallizes in acicular crystals, and ben-
zoic acid in lamina, which can be readily recognized.
Pure vanillin melts at 176 F., while the melting points
of such mixtures are considerably higher, it being in
one case at 249 F. By extracting such mixture with
thin sodium carbonate solution, benzoic acid passes into
solution. After neutralizing with hydrochloric acid, the
filtrate yields with ferric chloride a fawn-brown precipi-
tate of ferric benzoate, and on adding hydrochloric acid
in excess, the benzoic acid, which dissolves with great
difficulty in cold water, is precipitated. By treating the
latter, or the ferric benzoate, with dilute sulphuric acid
and magnesium,, the benzoic acid is reduced to benzal-
dehyde, which is recognized by its characteristic odor
of oil of bitter almonds.
Nitrobenzol is obtained by treating benzol, or a mix-
ture of it, with toluol and their higher homologues, with
strong nitric acid, or a mixture of nitric and sulphuric
acids, washing the product of reaction with water and
soda, caustic soda or ammonia, expelling the unaltered
hydrocarbons with steam and rectifying the residue.
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 199
Three varieties distinguished by their boiling points and
odor occur in commerce. The nitrobenzol or oil of
mirbane (essence de mirbane) is the so-called light nitro-
benzol, which boils at from 4(tt % lo'^llF F. The
heavier varieties boil at a higher temperature and have
a more or less disagreeable odor; they are used in the
manufacture of aniline and aniline colors.
Pure oil of mibrane is pale yellow, the finest qualities
being colorless and almost as clear as water. It has an
agreeable odor resembling that of oil of bitter almonds,
a specific gravity of 1.186 to 1.2 = 25 B&, and con-
geals at 3v.4^F. to a crystalline mass. It is scarcely
soluble in water, sparingly so in alcohol and with diffi-
culty in watery spirit of wine; it is miscible in all pro-
portions with ether, benzine, volatile oils, aud most fat
oils.
Oil of mirbane is largely manufactured in England,
but the German product is now generally preferred, it
being purer and does not impart to soap perfumed with
it a yellowish tinge. The finest oil of mirbane is pre-
pared from pure crystallizable benzol, and again purified
by washing with potassium bichromate and sulphuric
acid, and by rectification with steam.
Pure nitrobenzol suffers no change by boiling with
soda lye, while the poorly rectified product colors the
lye yellow or brown.
Nitrobenzol is frequently adulterated with spirit of
wine, which is recognized by shaking the oil with fat
oil of almonds ; in the presence of spirit of wine a tur-
bid mixture is formed. By shaking nitrobenzol con-
taining spirit of wine with an equal volume of water
in a graduated cylinder, its volume decreases.
200 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Oil of mirbane is much used for perfuming soaps, but
even the finest quality of it cannot replace oil of bitter
almonds for fine soaps and perfumery. Great care has
to "be exercised in storing, as well as in working, nitro-
benzol, it igniting very readily, and it is also poisonous.
Even the vapors, when inhaled for some time, may pro-
duce symptoms of poisoning, which consist in the skin
acquiring a leaden color, and heavy feelings in the limbs
with cold extremities, especially the hands and feet.
FRUIT ETHERS. At the London Exhibition, in 1851,
various products called apple oil, pear oil, pine-apple oil,
etc., were shown. They were examined by A. W. Hof-
mann, and found to consist of solutions of certain ethers
in alcohol. Since then the manufacture has greatly in-
creased and large quantities are now brought into com-
merce under the name of fruit ethers orfru>'t essences.
Fruit ethers are fluids possessing an agreeable, refresh-
ing odor closely resembling that of some fruits. For
this reason they are used in confectionery, in the manu-
facture of liqueurs and also as a substitute for volatile
oils, in the manufacture of perfumery. Chemically, fruit
ethers are combinations of an organic acid acetic, buty-
ric, valerianic, etc. with a so-called alcohol radicle, such
as ethyl and amyl. The preparation of fruit ethers being
connected with many difficulties, is seldom attempted by
perfumers, especially as products of an excellent quality
can at a low rate be procured from chemical laboratories
making a specialty of their manufacture. However, for
the sake of completeness, a brief description of the fabri-
cation of the principal ethers used in their preparation
shall here be given.
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 201
Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, C 5 H n O.CJH 3 O, is
prepared by mixing 1 part of amyl alcohol with 1 part
of concentrated sulphuric acid, and distilling the mix-
ture with 2 parts of potassium acetate. The distillate
is washed with water, to which some carbonate of soda
has been added, and then rectified over magnesia. It
forms a colorless liquid of an agreeable fruity odor. It
boils, according to Kopp, at 280 F. and, at 59 F., its
specific gravity is 0.8692.
For use in perfumery, the ether is best prepared, ac-
cording to Fehling's directions, by heating for some
time at a temperature of 212 F. 1 part of glacial acetic
acid with J part of sulphuric acid and one part of amyl
alcohol. By then adding water the ether is separated.
By this process distillation is avoided.
Acetic ethyl ether or ethyl acetate, C 2 ,H 3 O.O.C 2 H 5 .
Acetic ether is formed by the decomposition of sodium
acetate by ethyl sulphuric acid :
rOC 2 H, + C 2 H 3 O.ONa =
SO *\OH
Ethyl sulphuric Sodium acetate.
+ C Z H 3 O.OC 2 H 5
Acetic ether.
One molecule of sulphuric acid or 98 parts is mixed
with one molecule of alcohol or 46 parts, or with 1
molecule of alcohol of 90 per cent, which contains 85.75
per cent, of absolute alcohol, hence with 53.6 parts of
alcohol, and distilled with 1 molecule or 82 parts of
anhydrous sodium acetate. Since commercial sulphuric
202 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
acid always contains 5 or 6 per cent, of water, this has to be
taken into consideration, and 105 to 106 parts of it have
to be used in order to decompose the entire quantity of
sodium acetate. The crude sodium acetate found in com-
merce may be used. It is nearly white and at the ut-
most contaminated by traces of sulphuric acid and
chlorine, which in this case are not injurious. The
crystallized salt is heated in an iron kettle whereby it
melts in its water of crystallization. With constant
stirring the water is then completely evaporated until
an entirely dry mass of salt remains behind. The latter
may be quite strongly heated without fear of destroying
the acetic acid. The dried salt is immediately powdered,
passed through a medium fine sieve and kept for use
in well-closed vessels.
On a large scale the distillation of the ether may
be effected in an iron kettle, which is provided with a
well-fitting lid and connected by a copper head with a
cooling apparatus a worm lying in cold water. Bring
into the kettle the required quantity of concentrated sul-
phuric acid, add, with vigorous stirring, the alcohol and
allow the mixture to rest for 24 hours. Then throw the
dry sodium acetate into the mixture, mix it thoroughly,
by stirring, with the ethyl sulphuric acid, and, after
luting all the joints of the apparatus, heat at first mode-
rately. Distillation proceeds quietly and uniformly,
the fire being regulated according to how the ether runs
off from the worm. Such uniform distillation is, however,
only attained by the use of the sodium acetate in the
form of powder, and thoroughly mixing it with the acid.
If large pieces of the salt are present or the powdered
salt balls together, the formation of ether sometimes takes
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 203
place so suddenly that the vapors cannot condense in the
cooling apparatus, but escape violently, or if they cannot
escape rapidly from the condenser, may even burst the
apparatus. The reason for this is that the larger pieces
float in the superheated acid without being saturated by
it, and, when they suddenly collapse, form a mass of
ether- vapors.
Distillation is continued until that which at last passes
over is not inflammable. With the above-mentioned
proportions 88 parts of acetic ether are formed, but as
some water always passes over, distillation need not be
interrupted until the receiver contains at least 90 parts
of crude ether.
The crude ether always contains more or less water,
some alcohol, and a small quantity of free acetic acid.
With the above-mentioned proportions, the content of
alcohol can, however, be only very small. To neutralize
the acetic acid, add some burnt magnesia or shake with
carbonate of soda solution until the acid reaction disap-
pears. For the absorption of the water and alcohol, add
as much sharply dried (not fused) calcium chloride as
the fluid will dissolve, and then let it stand with an
excess of the salt for one day. The calcium chloride
combines with the water and alcohol and separates as a
heavy layer beneath the ether. The latter is decanted
off and brought into a rectifying vessel a copper still,
heated by steam, and provided with a cooling pipe. The
ether is distilled off at a moderate heat, the last portion,
about T ^, being caught in a special receiver, to be again
rectified at the next operation.
According to Grossschopf, 40 Ibs. of pulverized anhy-
drous sodium acetate, together with a cooled mixture of
204 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
46 Ibs. of concentrated sulphuric acid and 37 Ibs. of 95
per cent, alcohol, free from fusel oil, are distilled in a
copper still heated by steam. Distillation is continued
with constant stirring by means of an apparatus in the
still, until no more fluid smelling and tasting of acetic
ether passes over. The crude distillate, amounting to. 55
or 56 Ibs., is brought into bottles which are filled f full.
The bottles are then filled up with water and potassium
carbonate is added until the fluid, after shaking, shows
no acid reaction. The aqueous fluid beneath the ether
is then drawn off by means of a siphon, and the ether
several times washed by shaking with water and allow-
ing to settle. Since the wash-water absorbs a quite con-
siderable quantity of ether, it is collected and subjected
to rectification, whereby an alcoholic acetic ether is ob-
tained. The ether, being freed from acetic acid and
alcohol by neutralization and washing, is brought in
contact with fused calcium chloride to free it from
water, and finally rectified over magnesia. In this
manner 36 to 37 Ibs. of pure acetic ether are obtained.
Acetic ether is a clear, colorless fluid of a pleasant,
etheral odor. It boils at 170.6 F., and at 59 F. its
specific gravity is 0.9068. Pure acetic ether dissolves
in 11 to 12 parts of water; a content of alcohol or the
addition of water increases its solubility. Hence, its
ibility in water is a criterion of its purity.
nzoic ether or ethyl benzoate, C 7 H 5 O.OC 2 H 5 , is most
readily prepared by mixing 4 parts of alcohol, 2 parts
of crystallized benzoic acid, and 1 part fuming hydro-
chloric acid, and for some time heating the mixture in a
flask. The benzoic acid is thereby gradually and com-
pletely converted into ether. The fluid is mixed with
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 205
water, whereby the ether is completely separated. It is
several times washed with carbonate of soda solution,
and, for the purpose of withdrawing the last trace of
free acid, distilled over lead oxide. It forms a colorless
oil of an aromatic odor, specific gravity 1.0502, and
boils at l2 FT In cold water it is insoluble. How-
ever, like all varieties of ether, it dissolves readily in
alcohol and ether^
Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate, C 4 H 7 O.OC 2 H a .
The preparation of this ether must be preceded by that
of butyric acid. The latter is obtained, according to
Bensch, by dissolving 6 Ibs. of cane sugar and 8 drachms
of tartaric acid in 13 quarts of hot water, allowing the
liquid to stand a few days and then adding 7 ozs. of old
rotten cheese, which has been stirred up in 4 quarts of
skimmed sour milk and 3 Ibs. of finely pulverized chalk.
The mixture must be kept at a uniform temperature of
from 86 to 95 F. for some weeks, from time to time
mixing it by stirring, and replacing the water lost by
evaporation.
By the action of a ferment the sugar is first converted
into lactic acid. In 10 to 12 days the entire mass con-
geals to a paste of calcium lactate. By now allowing
fermentation to proceed without interruption, it gradu-
ally enters another stage ; gas bubbles consisting of car-
bonic acid and hydrogen rise up, until in the course of
5 or 6 weeks the process is finished. This is recognized
by the 'fluid becoming quiet, no more gas being evolved.
The fluid then contains a solution of calcium lactate,
which is converted into the corresponding sodium salt
by the addition of 8 Ibs. of crystallized soda. It is then
filtered and concentrated by evaporation to 5 quarts. By
206 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
adding 5} Ibs. of sulphuric acid, diluted with an equal
volume of water, butyric acid is separated as a dark-
colored oily mass.
The crude butyric acid thus obtained and freed from
water by shaking with calcium chloride, is a mixture of
acetic, butyric, and capric acids, but does not contain
propionic and valerianic acids. To obtain from it pure
butyric acid, fractional distillation is required. For
manufacturing on a large scale, a copper distilling appa-
ratus with silver head and silver cooling pipe is used,
the bulb of a thermometer being placed in the head. In
the first rectification, the receiver is changed after the
thermometer has risen to 311 F. ; the portion passing
over between 311 and 329 F. is caught up by itself,
and the receiver being again changed, distillation is con-
tinued until finished. The first distillate contains mostly
acetic acid, besides a small quantity of butyric acid, the
second the greater portion of the butyric acid besides
a little acetic and capric acids, while the third consists
chiefly of capric acid. For preparing butyric ether for
technical purposes, the fraction passing over between
311 and 329 F. is sufficiently pure. To obtain chemi-
cally pure butyric acid, the rectification of the portion
passing over between 311 and 329 F. is in the same
manner repeated, until finally a product with a constant
boiling point at 324.2 F. is obtained.
Butyric acid fermentation proceeds more rapidly by
using, instead of rotten cheese, putrefying meat, and in
place of sugar, starch paste or mashed boiled potatoes,
1 part of meat to 4 parts of starch or a corresponding
quantity of potatoes being employed. The same pro-
ducts are formed as in the preceding process, but much
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 207
more rapidly, fermentation being finished, according to
Schubert, in 5 to 6 days.
Butyric acid, C 4 H 7 O.OH, or C 3 H 7 COOH, is a liquid
of a very sour taste and odor, and at an intense cold con-
geals to a crystalline mass which melts at 32 F. In a
pure state it boils at 324.2 F. It is soluble in water,
but separates again if soluble salts are added to this solu-
tion. Its specific gravity, after being completely freed
from water, is 0.974.
Besides the normal butyric acid, there is known
another one called isobyteric acid or dimethyl 'acetic acid.
It is distinguished from the normal acid by being less
soluble in water and by its boiling point, which lies at
309.2 F. It occurs in St. John's bread or carob, in
the volatile oil from Arnica montana and in croton oil.
Butyric ether is formed by mixing 2 parts of butyric
acid with 2 parts of alcohol and 1 part of sulphuric
acid. The fluid is heated to 176 F., and, after being
for several hours kept at that temperature, is poured
into cold water, whereby the ether separates as an oily
fluid. It is then separated from the aqueous solution,
washed with water to which some chalk has been added
for the neutralization of the free acid, and finally the
water is withdrawn from the ether by, for several days,
leaving it in contact with calcium chloride. To obtain
it entirely pure, it is only necessary to distil it once. It
forms a clear, very mobile fluid of a pine-apple odor,
and a specific gravity of 0.900. It boils at 249.8 F.
Commercial butyric ether, large quantities of which
are used for the preparation of the so-called pine-apple
ether or essence, is seldom pure, it being generally ob-
tained from simply rectified butyric acid. According to
208 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
another method, which is, however, not as profitable, it is
obtained by distilling butter-soap with alcohol and sul-
phuric acid. For this purpose, bring 20 pounds of
butter-soap, cut up in small pieces, into a distilling appa-
ratus, pour over it 10 pounds of 90 per cent, alcohol
and heat moderately until the soap is dissolved. Since
a portion of the alcohol evaporates thereby, add 10
pounds more of alcohol and then 20 pounds of sulphuric
acid. On further heating, a fluid of a very agreeable
odor distils over, which is an alcoholic solution of the
ethers of the volatile acids found in butter. Towards
the end of the operation, in consequence of the further
progress of decomposition, a development of sulphurous
acid generally takes place. This is removed from the
distillate by allowing it to remain for several days in
contact with finely-pulverized pyrolusite (peroxide of
manganese) and rectifying over burnt magnesia. In the
first distillation, the heavy volatile acids of the butter
remain behind ; they are freed from the excess of sul-
phuric acid and the sulphate of sodium or potassium by
washing with hot water, and can be utilized in the
manufacture of soap.
The butyric ether obtained from butter-soap is far
from being pure butyric ether, it containing, besides it,
a mixture of various kinds of ether derived from the
volatile acids caproic, capric, and caprylic acids. How-
ever, these varieties of ether possess similar properties
to that of butyric acid ; in alcoholic solutions their taste
and odor are nearly alike, and hence can be employed
in this mixture for the preparation of essences of an
agreeable odor and taste.
A suitable material for the preparation of butyric
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 209
ether is also the St. John's bread or carob, the pods of
Sitequa dulcis. Kedtenbacher established in them the
occurrence of about 2 per cent, butyric acid, which
Gruenzweig later on proved to be isobutyric acid. Be-
sides butyric acid and other volatile acids, St. John's
bread contains about 40 per cent, of fermentable varieties
of sugar, which can be utilized after their conversion to
butyric acid. For this purpose Stinde has proposed the
following process : Convert the pods together with the
seeds to a coarse powder ; bring 100 Ibs. of this powder
into a capacious barrel placed in a warm place, and pour
sufficient water of 82.5 F. over it, to form a thin paste ;
after 4 to 5 days add 24 Ibs. of whiting and await fer-
mentation. The paste, which gradually becomes thicker,
is from time to time stirred, and, if necessary, a small
quantity of lukewarm water added. In summer fer-
mentation is finished in six weeks, after which the
preparation of the ether is proceeded with.
For this purpose bring the paste into a still provided
with a steam jacket ; the evening before mix 36 Ibs. of
concentrated sulphuric acid with 60 Ibs. of alcohol of 95
per cent., and add the mixture to the paste in the still ;
then lute the joints of the distilling apparatus, and
quickly introduce steam. Distillation soon commences,
and, when once introduced, is continued with a moderate
admission of steam.
The first pound of the distillate is caught by itself,
and, after changing the receiver, distillation is continued
until but little passes over, even with an increased ad-
mission of steam. Thus an abundant yield of alcoholic
butyric ether is obtained. When distillation is finished
20 Ibs. more of alcohol may be brought into the still ;
14
210 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
the distillate obtained thereby being still rich in butyric
ether.
The St. John's bread used should be of the best
quality, free from worms and mould, as otherwise the
ether would not possess the pure, agreeable odor char-
acteristic of butyric ether.
Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate, CHO.OC 2 H 5 .
This ether is also much manufactured for the prepara-
tion of the so-called essences which are employed for
the purpose of imitating the odor of plants, fruits, etc.
It is formed by the action of formic acid upon alcohol,
or by bringing ethyl sulphuric acid, or a mixture of al-
cohol and sulphuric acid, in contact with formates, or
finally by bringing formic acid at the moment of its
formation in contact with alcohol.
' The most simple process is that recommended by
Lor in :
Into a capacious distilling apparatus connected with
the cooling pipe, so that the distillate constantly flows
back, bring 1 part, by weight, of glycerin of the con-
sistency of syrup, add \ of its weight of crystallized
oxalic acid and the same quantity of alcohol of 90 to
95 per cent. With moderate heating a vigorous devel-
opment of gas soon takes place. The oxalic acid in
contact with the glycerin splits into formic acid and
carbonic acid, according to the following equation :
/COOH = CHO.OH + CO 2 .
\COOH
Oxalic acid. Formic acid. Carbonic acid.
The glycerine does not undergo alteration thereby.
The nascent formic acid converts the alcohol present
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 211
into formic ether, water being separated. When, after
continued heating, the development of carbonic acid
abates, add the same quantities of oxalic acid and alco-
hol to the contents of the still, heat again until but little
carbonic acid is evolved, and then add, twice in succes-
sion, the same quantities of oxalic acid and alcohol as
before, until finally as much oxalic acid is consumed as
glycerin has been employed. When the evolution of
carbonic acid ceases, the receiver is reversed and the
ether distilled off. The glycerin remaining behind is
again concentrated to the consistency of syrup, and may
be re-used.
The distillate is freed from free acid by the addition
of magnesia, and the alcohol and water are separated by
shaking with calcium chloride, after which the pure
ether is obtained by rectification.
Formic ether is colorless, thinly-fluid, of a pleasant
smell, specific gravity 0.945, boiling point 130 F.,
soluble in cold water, and miscible in every proportion
with alcohol and ether.
Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, C 2 H 5 .ONO. In a pure
state this ether is best prepared according to the method
given by E. Kopp. It consists in bringing equal vol-
umes of alcohol and ordinary nitric acid together with
copper filings into a distilling apparatus, which is so
arranged that the vapors first pass through a flask filled
with water of 77 F., then through a calcium chloride
tube, and are finally condensed in a receiver surrounded
by snow and common salt. The nitric acid is first de-
composed by the copper, nitrous acid being thereby de-
veloped, which is so transposed that its radicle NO
occupies the position of the typical hydrogen in the
212 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
alcohol, while the rest of the acid forms water with the
hydrogen of the alcohol. By the reaction such a quan-
tity of heat is liberated that the process requires assist-
ance by external heating only towards the end of the
operation. In the receiver is then a pale yellow fluid
having the taste and odor of apples and, at 59 F., a
specific gravity of 0.947. According to Liebig, the
boiling point of nitrous ether lies at 61.5 F. ; hence
it can be condensed only by careful cooling, and has to
be kept in glass tubes fused together. In water it is
but sparingly soluble, but readily so in alcohol. By
the addition of water it is separated from the alcoholic
solution.
Mohr has modified Kopp's method as follows : Mix
alcohol of 0.833 specific gravity, water, and nitric acid
of 1.200 specific gravity, each 24 parts and add 4 parts
of copper filings. Of this mixture draw off 24 parts of
distillate, mix the latter with litmus tincture and neu-
tralize the free acid by adding, drop by drop, solution
of caustic potash or soda until the litmus tincture be-
comes blue. Rectify the distillate and catch of it 8
parts. Compound the latter with 16 parts alcohol of
0.833 specific gravity, whereby the product is made equal
to the quantity of alcohol originally used. The product
is kept in glasses holding from 2 to 3 ozs. each. This
alcoholic nitrous ether is of a yellow color, very strong
and has a pure odor.
In England and America, nitrous ether is much used
for aromatizing whiskies and for other purposes. Ac-
cording to Stinde* it is prepared on a large scale as
follows :
* Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 184, 367.
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 213
A stone- ware flask of at least 120 Ibs. capacity, such
as is used for the preparation of chlorine, is so placed
upon a tripod in a sheet-iron cylinder that the neck pro-
jects over the edge of the cylinder. The space between
the flask and the walls of the cylinder is completely filled
with mats or coarse pack-cloth. A steam-pipe enters the
lower part of the cylinder, while a cock placed on the bot-
tom of the cylinder serves for discharging the condensed
water. The cylinder is closed by a sheet-iron cover pro-
vided in the centre with a hole through which passes the
neck of the flask. The flask is filled with 60 Ibs of 90
per cent, alcohol free from fusel oil, to which, in small
portions, 15 Ibs. of crude nitric acid of 36 Be. are added.
The neck of the flask is provided with an exactly-
fitting tube of pure tin. The tube is bent twice at a right
angle, and one end is provided with an annular piece to
prevent it from slipping too far into the interior of the
flask. The joints between the tube and the neck of the
flask are luted with a stiff paste of flaxseed meal, a wet
strip of linen being, for greater security, wrapped over
the cement. The other end of the tin-tube, which here
occupies the place of a still-head, is in the same manner
connected with a long tin-worm lying in a large cooling
vat.
Everything being prepared, but little steam is at first
introduced into the iron cylinder in order to slowly
warm the apparatus. When this is done the admission
of steam is gradually increased. The mats or pack-cloth
placed between the walls of the cylinder and the flask
prevent the latter from bursting, which otherwise might
readily happen. Distillation commences in about ten
minutes. The admission of steam is then moderated,
214 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
care being had that the ether passes over in an uninter-
rupted stream of the thickness of a goose-quill.
When, with the admission of the same amount of
steam, the distillate commences to run drop by drop, the
steam-cock is closed and the operation interrupted, this
being the case in about six to seven hours.
The next day the flask without removing the residue
- is charged in the same manner. However, the third
day only 30 pounds of alcohol are poured in.
The combined distillates come into a copper still with
double walls, between which steam can be admitted^
and are neutralized with dry calcium hydrate. The
cooling pipe connected with the still consists of tin, and
is provided with a beak dipping into a flask filled half-
full with 4 pounds of alcohol. A slight current of steam
suffices for distillation. The first distillate is dark
yellow, and contains large quantities of aldehyde. Not-
withstanding careful cooling, the vapors can be but in-
completely condensed, and their inhalation has to be
carefully avoided, they producing stupor and headache
as well as inflammation of the eyes. When the distil-
late is colorless and shows no reaction with litmus paper,
the receiver is removed and replaced by a large glass
balloon in which the entire distillate is collected. Dis-
tillation must be quickly finished, as otherwise colored
ether is obtained.
l^alerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate, C 5 H 1J O.C 5 ITgO.
This ether is formed by treating amyl alcohol with
chromic acid. However, besides the ether a large
quantity of valerianic acid is also formed, which has to
be converted by itself into ether.
To prepare the ether bring 5J parts of powdered
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 215
potassium dichromate together with 5 parts of water
into a distilling apparatus and very gradually add a
mixture of 1 part amyl alcohol and 5 parts concentrated
sulphuric acid. The fluid becomes so strongly heated
that it almost boils. When reaction is finished, heat
and distil off the rest, The distillate consists of two
layers ; the lower one being an aqueous solution of
valerianic acid and the upper one a mixture of valerianic
acid and amyl valerate. To separate both, add concen-
trated carbonate of soda solution until all the free acid
is neutralized. The oily liquid separating thereby is
the ether. It is separated from the valerianate of
sodium, the latter evaporated to a small volume, and,
after cooling, sufficient sulphuric acid to fix the entire
quantity of the soda is added. The valerianic acid is
thereby separated, and floats upon the solution of the
sodium sulphate. It is separated from the latter, and
1 J parts of it are added to a mixture of f part of amyl
alcohol and 1 part sulphuric acid and heated to 212 F.
After the addition of water, the apple-ether separates
and only requires washing with water and some sodium
carbonate to yield a pure product.
The separation of the valerianic acid can, however,
be readily avoided. Evaporate the neutral solution of
the valerianate of soda to dryness in the water-bath,
weigh of 1 molecule, or 124 parts, and gently heat
it with a mixture of 1 molecule or 98 parts of sulphuric
acid (on account of the content of water in the com-
mercial acid, 105 parts of it will have to be taken) and
1 molecule or 88 parts of amyl alcohol.
The ether thus obtained is a fluid, which, in a con-
centrated state, does not possess an agreeable odor, but
216 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
when mixed with 10 parts of alcohol imparts to the
latter an odor resembling that of apples. It boils at
from 370 to 374 F., and at 64 F. has a specific
gravity of 0.8793.
Valerianic ethyl ether closely resembles the amyl ether,
and, like it, is prepared from valerianate of sodium,
ordinary alcohol, and sulphuric acid.
Apple ether essentially consists of valeric amyl ether,
of which 1 part is dissolved in 6 to 10 parts of strong
alcohoL/
Apricot ether is butyric ether with some amyl alcohol.
Cherry ether is acetic ether with benzoic ether.
Pear ether contains acetic amyl ether.
Pineapple ether is butyric ether.
Strawberry ether is acetic ether with acetic amyl ether
and butyric ether.
The ethers are dissolved in various proportions in
alcohol, according to the intensity of the odor which it
is desired to obtain. The aroma of most of them is
generally increased by a slight addition of chloroform.
For the preparation of different fruit essences Klet-
zinsky* gives the following directions. The figures
indicate additions in cubic centimeters to 1 liter of rec-
tified alcohol of 90 per cent. :
Apple essence. Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10, alde-
hyde 20, acetic ether 10, valeric amyl ether 100, oxalic
acidf 10, glycerin 40.
Apricot essence. Chloroform 10 ; butyric ether 100,
* Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 180, 77.
f The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold,
saturated, alcoholic solutions.
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. 217
valeric ether 50, peach oil 10, amyl alcohol 20, butyric
amyl ether 10, tartaric acid* 10, glycerin 40.
Cherry essence. Acetic ether 50, benzoic ether 50,
peach oil 10, benzoic acid* 10, glycerin 30.
Currant essence. Aldehyde 10, acetic ether 50, ben-
zoic ether 10, grape-seed oil 10, tartaric acid* 50, suc-
cinic acid* 10, benzoic acid* 10.
Grape essence. Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, formic
ether 20, grape-seed oil 100, wintergreen oil 10, tartaric
acid* 50, succinic acid* 30, glycerin 100.
Lemon essence. Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10,
aldehyde 20, acetic ether 100, oil of lemons 100, tartaric
acid* 100, succinic acid* 10, glycerin 50.
Melon essence. Aldehyde 20, formic ether 10, butyric
ether 40, valeric ether 50, glycerin 30.
Orange essence. Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, acetic
ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, benzoic ether
10, wintergreen oil 10, acetic amyl ether 10, orange-peel
oil 100, tartaric acid* 10, glycerin 100.
Peach essence. Aldehyde 20, acetic ether 50, formic
ether 50, butyric ether 50, valeric ether 50, peach oil
50, amyl alcohol 20, glycerin 50.
Pear essence. Acetic ether 50, acetic amyl ether 100,
glycerin 100.
Pine-apple essence. Chloroform 10, aldehyde 10,
butyric ethyl ether 50, butyric arnyl ether 100, glycerin
30.
Plum essence. Aldehyde 50, acetic ether 50, formic
ether 10, butyric ether 20, peach oil 40, glycerin 80.
* The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold,
saturated, alcoholic solutions.
218 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Raspberry essence. Nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 10,
acetic ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, ben-
zoic ether 10, grape-seed oil 10, wintergreen oil 10,
acetic amyl ether 10, butyric amyl ether 10, tartaric
acid* 50, succinic acid* 10, glycerin 40.
Strawberry essence.- Nitrous ether 10, acetic ether 50,
formic ether 10, butyric ether 50, wintergreen oil 10,
acetic amyl ether 30, butyric amyl ether 20, glycerin
20.
* The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold,
saturated, alcoholic solutions.
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 219
CHAPTER VIII.
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES.
THE alcoholic perfumes, also called " Extraits
d'Odeurs" are divided into flower-odors, "Extraits aux
fleurs" and into compound odors, " Bouquets" The ex-
tracts of French flower pomades form the foundation of
all Extraits d'Odeurs, all other additions serving the
purpose of rendering these odors more pronounced and
durable. Hence the art of the perfumer consist in at-
taining this object as perfectly as possible by the correct
composition of the perfume-materials at his disposal.
If, for instance, the flower-odor jasmine is to be pre-
pared, it would not be sufficient to simply use the
alcoholic extract of jasmine-pomade for the purpose,
since the odor of jasmine would soon volatilize in the
air or upon the handkerchief, if the perfumer did not
understand how to prevent it. To prevent the rapid
volatilization of the scent, to retain it or to fix it, extracts
of various perfume-materials, known as tinctures or
extracts are used.
The method of preparing the flower-pomades in
France has already been described on p. 58 et seq. It
need here only be added that, according to their quality,
these pomades are designated by different numbers by
the French manufacturers. There are three qualities,
which by some manufacturers are designated as No. 6,
220 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
No. 18, and No. 30; and by others as No. 12, No. 24
and No. 36, so that No. 6 and No. 12, No. 18 and No.
24, as well as No. 30 and 36 correspond to each other.
Pomades No. 6 or No. 12 are not suitable for the prepara-
tion of extracts, they containing but little actual extract
of flowers, and are generally mixtures touched up with
volatile oils. They are almost exclusively used for hair
pomades, for which they are well adapted. No. 18 or
No. 24 is the quality generally employed by the per-
fumer for alcoholic extracts. No. 30 or No. 36 is the
strongest, and, hence, most expensive flower-pomade,
and is used only by a few perfumers who have customers
for the finest qualities of Extraits d y Odeurs.
When freshly prepared, the above-mentioned flower
pomades do not possess the fine odor of the respective
flowers, the full aroma being developed only after about
six months. The tin-canisters containing them should be
provided with well-fitting lids and kept in a cool, dry
cellar. Thus stored, flower-pomade keeps for about five
years, with the exception of jasmine and tuberose, which
keep only for about two years.
In order to show how the extraction of flower-pomades
is effected, we will take, as an example, 2 Ibs. of French
flower-pomade No. 18 and 3J quarts of best alcohol.*
This proportion yields a good and sufficiently strong
extract for the preparation of Extraits d' Odeurs. It
must, of course, be suited to the size of the extracting
apparatus, 8 Ibs. of flower-pomade and 14 quarts of al-
cohol being, for instance, taken, though that depends
* By "best alcohol" is understood rectified alcohol of 95 to 97
per cent.
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES.
221
on the quantity of the respective extract required by the
perfumer. It is, however, best that the apparatus should
be as completely filled as possible so that it contains but
little air.
The gaining of alcoholic extracts from flower-pom-
ades is best effected in a special apparatus, one of the
simplest kind for the purpose being shown at Fig. 25.
FIG. 25.
It consists of two cylinders, A and A v of stout sheet-
iron provided with well -fitting lids. Through the cen-
tre of each lid passes a vertical iron shaft a and a v which
carries in the interior of the apparatus several horizontal
arms 6, 6,, 6 2 . These vertical shafts can be rapidly re-
volved by the horizontal shaft c. Before bringing the
flower-pomade into the apparatus, it is melted in the
water-bath at a temperature, which, under no conditions,
should exceed 88.25 F. The alcohol is also heated to
88.25 F. and added to the melted pomade in the appa-
222 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
ratus. The arms with which the vertical shaft is pro-
vided, keep the mass in the apparatus in constant
motion and prevent the pomade from settling on the
bottom. The apparatus is arranged to be driven either
by hand or steam, a fly-wheel instead of a pulley, being
in the first case provided at g.
Where the manufacturer has steam-power at his dis-
posal, the apparatus may be connected with the trans-
mission and allowed to run for 48 to 60 hours during
working time. After the expiration of this time, pro-
ceed to strain off the finished extract (No. 1) as fol-
lows : Over a clean tin vessel stretch a close, white
linen cloth, and pour the entire contents of the appa-
ratus upon the latter ; the liquid portion runs through
the cloth into the vessel, while the pomade remains
behind upon the cloth. Finally, the cloth is thoroughly
wrung out in order to obtain as much alcoholic extract
from the pomade as possible. Bring the extract, No. 1,
thus obtained into a glass flask, allow it to stand in a
cool cellar for about 48 hours, and then filter it through
paper into another glass bottle. This filtering through
paper is necessary, even if the extract should appear
clear and pure, as, in straining, not only do small particles
of fat pass through the cloth, but are also dissolved in
the extract. By quietly standing in a cool cellar these
particles of fat are separated and appear as white flakes
on the bottom and sides of the flask. At a higher tem-
perature, these flakes melt and appear as drops of oil
on the bottom of the flask. If filtering were omitted,
these particles of fat would be transferred to the ex-
tracts and thus cause stains upon handerchiefs, clothing,
etc. If the manufacturer has not a cool cellar at his
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 223
disposal, the fatty particles are readily separated by
placing the flasks containing the extract upon ice, and
filtering immediately after separation is complete. The
fat then remains upon the filter.
The pomade remaining upon the straining cloth is,
without being previously melted, returned to the appa-
ratus, and, after adding the same quantity of alcohol
(3J quarts to every 2 Ibs. of pomade), the .mixture is again
worked as previously described. The straining off and
filtering of extract No. 2 is effected in precisely the same
manner as extract No. 1.
The pomade upon the cloth is now brought for the
third time into the apparatus and, after adding 3J quarts
of alcohol for every 2 Ibs. of pomade, subjected to the
same treatment as for extracts Nos. 1 and 2. After
thoroughly wringing out the cloth containing the pomade,
the latter is brought into a clean tin vessel and entirely
melted upon the water-bath. The vessel containing the
melted pomade is placed in a cool cellar and, if after
complete cooling, a liquid appears upon the surface, it
is added to the flask containing extract No. 3. This
extract, No. 3, is used in place of alcohol when pre-
paring, the next time, extract No. 1 from the same kind
of pomade. In this manner, an extract No. 1 of still
greater strength is obtained, and by treating the pomade
three times with alcohol, it is more completely exhausted.
The exhausted pomade can, in conjunction with fresh
fat, be used for ordinary hair pomades.
Although the extraction of pomades is somewhat
laborious and requires great care, it nevertheless pays
the perfumer.
Beyer freres, of Paris, have essentially improved the
224
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
extracting apparatus previously described, the improve-
ment being shown in Fig. 26. The cylinders A and A,
are of copper tinned inside ; the lids close air-tight :
above the cocks /and f t a perforated piece of tin is
FIG. 26.
placed in the interior of the cylinders ; upon this piece
of tin a disk of felt may be placed, and thus the extract
be drawn off clear. In order to reduce the pomade
to a finely divided state, and thus bring it in contact
with the alcohol, it is passed through a vermicelli press,
h, placed upon the cylinder A r The pomade passes, in
the form of fine vermicelli, through a sieve in the lower
portion of the press into the alcohol contained in the
cylinders. The press can be transferred from one ex-
tracting vessel to the other. The shafts a and a t also
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 225
have several horizontal arms like those shown in Fig.
25. Through the contrivances d and d n sitting upon the
shaft c, the shafts a and a t , receive a revolving as well
as an up-and-down motion, so that a complete mixture of
pomade and alcohol is effected. By this arrangement
the pomade completely yields its perfume to the alcohol
in one day, and independent of the quicker work, it has
the further advantage that the extracts are of better
quality in consequence of not remaining for so long a
time in contact with the fat.
TINCTURES AND EXTRACTS. In the following pages
receipts for the preparation of the principal tinctures and
extracts used in the preparation of Extraits, as well as
in other branches of perfumery, fumigating pastils and
powders,* dentifrices, mouth-waters, and cosmetics, will
be given. The tinctures are prepared from the resins
and balsams previously mentioned, as well as from the
perfume-substances derived from the animal kingdom.
Besides these there are employed for the purpose several
spices, leaves, roots, and seeds such as musk-seeds,
angelica root, orris root, patchouli leaves, musk-root
or sumbul-root, tonka beans, vanilla, vitivert root, etc.
Most of these substances, if not already found in com-
merce in the form of a powder, are, before extraction,
pulverized, or at least comminuted as much as possible.
For a better view the treatment of each substance is
given with the respective receipt. The infusions should
be stored in a moderately warm room, and thoroughly
shaken several time& every day. When extraction is
finished the product is filtered through paper and is then
called tincture or extract.
The substances to be used for tinctures should be fresh
15
226
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
and genuine, and the alcohol free from fusel oil, since
a perfect tincture can only be obtained under these con-
ditions. For the preparation of tinctures Beyer freres
have constructed very suitable apparatuses (Figs. 27
and 28). By the vigorous and uninterrupted agitation
produced by means of such an apparatus extraction is
effected much more rapidly and more completely than
by treating the substances to be extracted in ordinary
bottles and by shaking with the hand.
The apparatus (Fig. 27) is provided with two boxes
FIG. 27.
for the reception of bottles filled with the substances to
be extracted and alcohol. In the accompanying illus-
tration one box is charged with two glass bottles and
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES.
227
the other with a copper flask. However, Beyer freres
also construct apparatuses which can, at one time, be
charged with 6, 8, or 10 glass bottles, so that 6, 8, or 10
different tinctures can be prepared at one operation.
The apparatus (Fig. 28) consists of a round table pro-
vided with cavities covered with leather, in which rest
Fia. 28.
bottles of a special shape. The bottles fit exactly in the
cavities. The stoppers, with which the bottles are
closed, rest against a screw of large diameter placed in
the centre of the apparatus. Against this screw the
bottles are firmly pressed by means of clamps and
screws. The bottles being filled with the substances to
be extracted, the table is set in motion, moving alter-
nately from left to right and from right to left.
It is advisable to have always a sufficient supply of
tinctures on hand, since their aroma improves by age.
The receipts given in the following pages have been
228 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
practically tested and can be recommended as perfectly
reliable.
Musk tincture. Tonkin musk 11 drachms, rose water
8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts.
Carefully empty the musk sac into a glass flask, add
the rose water and let the flask stand for about 10 days,
shaking frequently. Then add the alcohol and let the
whole stand for several weeks, shaking frequently.
Cut up the empty musk sacs into as small pieces as
possible, and, in another bottle, treat them in the same
manner as their contents; distilled water, may, how-
ever, be used instead of rose water. The object of the
water is to soften the musk, which swells up, so that the
alcohol can better penetrate, into the cellular tissue and
absorb the aroma.
The extract from the 'empty musk sacs is used for
cheaper products, or mixed with the extract from the
contents of the sacs, according to whether a more or
less fine quality of tincture is to be obtained, A still
higher yield might, perhaps, be obtained by the use of a
machine for comminuting the musk, which grjnds the
sac to atoms, whereby the cellular tissue is still more
completely disintegrated than by cutting up.
Civet tincture. Civet 5J drachms, best quality of
alcohol 3 pints.
Civet in its natural state being, with difficulty, soluble
in alcohol, triturate it in a mortar to a pulverulent mass
together with some dry substance, for instance, whiting
or exhausted orris-root powder. The mixture is then
brought into a glass flask, the alcohol added, and the
whole frequently shaken.
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 229
Ambergris tincture. Ambergris 5| drachms, alcohol
of the best quality 1 quart.
Ambergris dissolving readily in alcohol, pulverizing
is not required, but if it is done, great care should be
exercised to prevent loss of this expensive substance.
Ambergris is not so much distinguished by its aroma as
by its indestructibility, which renders it especially suit-
able for fixing odors.
Castor tincture. Castor 3J ozs., best quality of alco-
hol 3 pints.
Comminute the castor as much as possible, bring it
into a glass flask and add the alcohol.
Perfume-substances resembling musk having in the
last few years increased to an extraordinary degree, the
use of castor has been almost entirely abandoned on
account of its disagreeable odor. The tincture can qnly
be employed, when very old, for cheap perfumes.
Benzoin tincture. Benzoin (Siam) 2 Ibs., best quality
of alcohol 3 quarts.
Convert the benzoin into a coarse powder, bring it
into a flask, add the alcohol and shake thoroughly.
Solution takes place in 10 to 12 days.
Siam benzoin is the finest and most expensive and is
indispensable for JExtraits d'Odeurs. For cheaper pro-
ducts of perfumery, Sumatra benzoin answers very well.
Peru-baham tincture. Peru balsam 8 ozs., best quality
of alcohol 5 quarts.
Tolu-balsam tincture. Tolu balsam 3 Ibs., best quality
of alcohol 5 quarts.
Bring the alcohol into a bottle. Tolu balsam cannot
be reduced to a powder, hence it is necessary to keep it
right cool, whereby it becomes brittle so that it can be
230 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
cut up with a sharp instrument and a hammer. The
pieces detached are rapidly brought into the alcohol, so-
lution taking place in about 14 days. If the alcohol
were added to the tolu balsam, the latter would ball
together, rendering solution very difficult. Frequent
vigorous shaking is necessary.
Olibanum tincture. Olibanum 2 Ibs., best quality of
alcohol 4 quarts.
Eeduce the olibanum to as fine a powder as possible,
bring it into a flask, add the alcohol and shake fre-
quently.
Opopanax tincture. Opopanax 2 Ibs., best quality of
alcohol 4 quarts.
Reduce the opopanax to a coarse powder, bring it into
a bottle, add the alcohol and shake frequently.
Storax tincture. Storax liquidus 4 Ibs., alcohol of best
quality 5 quarts.
Bring the alcohol first into the flask. Then place the
pot containing the storax in warm water until it becomes
more liquid, and then pour it in very thin threads into
the flask. Shake frequently.
Myrrh tincture. Myrrh 1 lb., best quality of alcohol
2 quarts.
Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture. Abelmosk grains 21
ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 J quarts.
Reduce the grains to a fine powder, bring the powder
into a bottle, and add the alcohol. This tincture abel-
moschi fulfils its object as a fixing agent only when
about one year old, when it possesses a very fine aroma.
Abelmosk grains are the seeds of a plant (Abelmoschus
moschatus Monch; Hebiscus abelmoschus, L.) indigenous
to Central Africa, Arabia, and India. They are reddish-
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 231
gray, kidney-shaped, slightly corrugated on the surface,
and of an agreeble musk-like odor. The substance pro-
.ducing the musk odor lies in the seed coat. The odor
becomes very pronounced on rubbing the seeds between
the hands.
Angelica root tincture. Angelica root 16 ozs., best
quality of alcohol 2 quarts.
Bruise or rasp the root, bring it into a bottle, add the
alcohol, and shake frequently.
Orris-root tincture. Pulverized orris root of best
quality 2 lbs v alcohol of best quality 3 quarts.
Pulverize the root, bring it into a glass flask, and add
the alcohol. The powder having a great tendency to
ball together, it is necessary to shake five or six times
daily, and continue to do so for 14 days. In straining
off the tincture, it is advisable to bring the entire con-
tents of the flask upon a close linen cloth stretched over
a tin vessel. The orris-root powder remaining upon the
cloth after the tincture has run off is returned to the
flask, and fresh alcohol added in order to obtain a
second extract.
Musk-root or sumbul-root tincture. Sumbul root 1 lb.,
best quality of alcohol 2J quarts.
Proceed in the same manner as given under angelica-
root tincture.
Tonka-bean tincture. Tonka beans 8 ozs., alcohol of
best quality 3 pints.
The tonka bean is of great importance for perfumery.
The tincture prepared from it has an agreeable, pene-
trating odor, and in mixing it with other odors, great
care has to be exercised, so that the tonka odor is not
too prominent. The tincture is prepared as follows :
232 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Bring the beans, without comminuting them or remov-
ing the white coating adhering to them, into a flask,
add the alcohol, and let the whole macerate, with fre-
quent shaking, for about 14 days. Then filter off the
fluid. The tincture prepared in this manner only con-
tains the cumarin found as a white coating upon the
beans, and is used only for the finest products. Now
take the beans from the flask, comminute them, return
them to the flask, and add 1J quarts of alcohol. This
extract gives an excellent tincture suitable for products
of medium quality.
Cumarin tincture. Cumarin 5} drachms, best quality
of alcohol 1 quart.
Heliotropin tincture. The white crystals of heliotropin
yield with alcohol a solution clear as water, which is much
used in the preparation of Extrait heliotrope.
Vanilla tincture. Best quality of Bourbon vanilla
5J ozs., alcohol of best quality 2 quarts.
To prepare the tincture proceed as follows : Cut the
so-called vanilla pods lengthwise and then into as small
pieces as possible, and bring the latter together with the
alcohol into a flask. Some perfumers triturate the com-
mimuted vanilla with sugar in a porcelain mortar,
whereby the small-seed bodies contained in the pod
are ground up, and a better yield is claimed to be
obtained. Though by this trituration a tincture of a
darker color may be obtained, the color alone is by no
means a proof of the strength of the tincture. Care
must be had to bring the white, downy crystals of
vanillin found upon the vanilla pods into the flask.
Vanillin tincture. Vanillin 1J drachms, alcohol 2
quarts.
ALCOHOLIC PEKFTJMES. 233
Vitivert tincture. Yiti vert rhizome 8 ozs., best quality
of alcohol 2 quarts.
Reduce the rhizome to as fine a powder as possible,
bring the latter into a flask, add the alcohol and .shake
frequently.
Juniper-berry tincture. Juniper berries 2 Ibs., best
quality of alcohol 5 pints.
The juniper berries (the fruits of Juniperus communis,
L.) are comminuted, and the alcohol is poured over
them.
Patchouli extract* Patchouli leaves 1 lb.,best quality
of alcohol 5 pints.
Bring the pulverized leaves into a bottle and add the
alcohol. The tincture from patchouli leaves being dark-
green is not suitable for the preparation of Extrafa,
since white substances are colored grass-green by it ;
only traces of the tincture may be used for the purpose
of giving the Extr ait 'patchouli a greenish shade of color.
The tincture may, however, be utilized for milled
patchouli soaps.
From many of the above-mentioned perfume-sub-
stances, which serve for the peparation of tinctures and
are not entirely soluble in alcohol, but leave a residue
after extraction, a second infusion may be made. Musk,
castor, and the resins dissolve completely, there remain-
ing behind only the impurities and any mineral con-
stituents present which possess no aroma. But all
residues from woods, fruits, etc., are suitable for a second
extraction, most of the tinctures thus obtained being
quite aromatic, and, as will be seen later on in giving
* Compare patchouli oil, p. 130.
234 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
receipts, can be very advantageously utilized. For the
second extraction less alcohol has to be taken than for
the first.
Since many perfumers consider it of greater advantage
and more suitable to first dissolve the volatile oils used
for the Extraits d'Odeurs, and to prepare a tincture in
this manner, several receipts for the purpose are given
below. In the receipts for perfumery given in the next
following sections, the volatile oils are specified as such,
and not as tinctures, because the Extraits d'Odeurs
containing evidently much non-saturated alcohol, the
volatile oils will in time completely dissolve in them.
An exception to this rule might be ylang-ylang oil
and perhaps orris-root oil. Ylang-ylang oil is soluble
with difficulty, even in very strong alcohol, and if
directly used for the Extrait, the latter remains turbid
for weeks, and frequently, especially in winter, does not
become clear, notwithstanding repeated filtering. How-
ever, by preparing in good time an ylang-ylang tincture
this evil is avoided.
</ Almond-oil (bitter) tincture. Bitter almond oil 2|
drachms, alcohol* 1 quart.
Balm-oil tincture. Balm oil 5J drachms, alcohol 1
quart.
Basil-oil tincture. Basil oil 14 drachms, alcohol 1
quart.
v Bergamot-oil tincture. Bergamot oil 3J ozs., alcohol
4 quarts.
Canango-oil tincture. Canango oil (Java), If ozs.,
alcohol 1 quart.
* For all the tinctures, 95 to 97 per cent, alcohol of the best
quality is to be used.
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 235
Cassia-oil tincture. Cassia oil If ozs., alcohol 1
quart.
Cedar-oil tincture. Cedar oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart.
^ Cinnamon-oil tincture. Ceylon cinuamon oil 5J
drachms, alcohol 1 quart.
Citronella-oil tincture. Citronella oil 1 oz., alcohol 1
quart.
y v Clove-oil tincture. Oil of cloves 1 1 drachms, alcohol
1 quart.
Eucalyptus-oil tincture. Eucalyptus oil 1 oz., alcohol
1J quarts.
Geranium-oil tincture. Pal ma rosa oil 14 drachms,
alcohol 1 quart.
Lavender-oil tincture. Lavender oil If ozs., alcohol
1 quart.
Lemon-grass-oil tincture. Lemon-grass oil 1 oz., alco-
hol 1 quart.
^ Lemon-oil tincture. Oil of lemons If ozs., alcohol 1
quart.
Licari-oil tincture. Licari oil 5J drachms, alcohol 1
quart.
Myrrh-oil tincture. Myrrh oil 5J drachms, alcohol 1
quart.
Neroli-oil tincture. Neroli oil 5J drachms, alcohol 1
quart.
Opopanax-oil tincture. Opopanax oil 5-J drachms,
alcohol 1 quart.
* + Orris-root-oil tincture. Orris-root oil 5J dracl\ms,
alcohol 1 quart.
Patchouli-oil tincture. Patchouli oil 5J drachms,
alcohol 1 quart.
236 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Petit-grain-oil tincture. Petit-grain oil 11 drachms,
alcohol 1 quart.
Pine-leaf-oil tincture. Pine-leaf oil* 14 drachms,
alcohol 1 quart.
Portugal-oil tincture. Portugal oil If ozs., alcohol 1
quart.
ix Sandal-wood-oil tincture. Sandal-wood f oil 5J
drachms, alcohol 1 quart.
Verbena-oil tinctur*. Verbena oil 11 drachms, alco-
hol 1 quart.
Vitivert-oil tincture. Vitivert oil 2f drachms, alcohol
1 quart.
Wintergreen-oil tincture. Wintergreen oil 5J drachms,
alcohol 1 quart.
* Ylang-ylang-oil tincture. Ylang-ylang oil 1 1 drach ms, ,
alcohol 3 quarts.
Rose-oil tincture^ Rose oil (Turkish)J If ozs., alcohol
6J quarts.
Rose oil, if directly added to the alcohol, dissolves with
difficulty and incompletely. By the following method
the object is, however, readily accomplished :
Bring about 5J ozs. of pulverized sugar into a capa-
cious porcelain mortar, add the rose oil and mix inti-
mately with the pestle. Then pour the thickly-fluid
mass through a glass funnel into a glass flask and rinse
the mortar with alcohol until the prescribed 6J quarts
of the latter have been brought into the flask. Fre-
* By pine-leaf oil is understood pine oil or dwarf-pine oil. See
p. 149.
f The better quality of oil from the East Indian wood is to be used,
t Bulgarian rose oil is generally designated " Turkish rose oil."
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 237
quent shaking accelerates the complete solution of the
rose oil.
EXTRAITS AUX FLEURS. We now proceed to give
receipts for Extraits $ Odeurs, and consider first the flower
odors, Extraits auxfleurs. By extracts are thereby under-
stood the odors extracted from French flower pomades.
Any coloring matter required is mentioned under the re-
spective receipts.
Great care has to be exercised in the preparation of
Extraits and Bouquets, and special attention must be
paid that they actually represent the odor whose name
they bear.
Extrait acacia. Extract No. 1 from Pomm. Acacia
750 drachms, bergamot oil 1, lavender oil 1, eucalyptus
oil J, orris-root tincture 125, musk-root tincture 12J,
ambergris tincture 2J, civet tincture 1, musk tincture 1.
- Extrait cassie. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Cassie
500 drachms, from Pomm. Tubereuse 125, bergamot oil
5, orris-root tincture 75, tinctures of vitivert and angelica
each 12J, tinctures of musk and ambergris each 2J.
**~ Extrait heliotrope (Receipt No. 1). Extracts No. 1
from Pomm. Heliotrope 750 drachms, and from Pomm.
Rose 75, bergamot oil 2|, rose-geranium oil 1J, musk
tincture 2J, civet tincture 1J, heliotropin tincture 50.
Extrait heliotrope (Receipt No. 2). Extracts No. 1
from Pomm. Heliotrope 500 drachms, and from Pomm.
Rose and Pomm. Orange 50 each, bergamot oil 5, clove
oil 2 J, vanilla tincture 50, orris-root tincture 100, musk-
root tincture 25, tinctures of musk and civet 5 each,
benzoin tincture 10, Peru-balsarn tincture 5.
Extrait jacinthe. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Jacinthe
750 drachms, and from Pomm. Acacia 100 ; bergamot
238 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
oil 5, clove oil 1, storax tincture 2}, musk-root tincture
12}, tinctures of musk and ambergris 1} each.
Extrait jasmin. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Jasmin
500 drachms, and from Pomm. Orange 100 ; civet tinc-
ture 1 J, ambergris tincture 1, sandal-wood oil 3 drops.
Essence of the odor of linden blossoms. Extracts No.
1 from Pomm. Acacia 250 drachms, from Pomm. Jas-
min 50, and from Pomm. Jonquille 100 ; pure camomile oil
1 J, oil of lemons 2J, ambergris tincture 5, civet tincture 3.
Extrait jonquille. Extract No. 1 from Pomm. Jon-
quille 750 drachms, lavender oil J, bergamot oil 2J,
Ceylon cinnamon oil J, storax tincture 1}, tinctures of
abelmosk and angelica each 5, musk tincture 1}, civet
tincture 1.
Extrait magnolia. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Tube-
reuse 150 drachms, from Pomm. Acacia 250, and from
Pomm. Rose 125, balm oil 2J, tinctures of vanilla and
cumarin each 12J, civet tincture 1}, musk tincture 2}.
Extrait muguet (lily of the valley). Extracts No. 1
from Pomm. Jonquille 750 drachms, from Pomm. Jas-
min 100, from Pomm. Tubereuse 200, and from Pomm.
Acacia and Pomm. Orange each 100 ; bergamot oil 7}
drachms, oil of lemons 2}, angelica oil 3 drops, storax
tincture 5 drachms, musk tincture 2}, vanilla tincture 5,
ambergris tincture 2, ylang-ylang tincture 100, winter-
green tincture 25, bitter-almond-oil tincture 2J.
Extrait fleurs de Mai (May flowers). Extract No. 1
from Pomm. Reseda, Pomm. Rose and Pomm. Helio-
trope, each 75 drachms; from Pomm. Jasmin 125, and
from Pomm. Orange 50 ; bergamot oil 7}, Ceylon cinna-
mon oil 2}, orris-root tincture 50, tinctures of ambergris
and musk, each 15, ylang-ylang tincture 25.
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 239
Extrait ixora. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Tubereuse
125 drachms, from Pomm. Cassie and Pomm. Reseda,
each 175 ; bergaoiot oil 5, orrris-root tincture 125, musk
tincture 10, benzoin tincture 25.
f Extrait Orange. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Orange
500 drachms, from Pomm. Acacia 100 ; Portugal oil 7 J,
tinctures of musk and ambergris, each 1.
Extrait white rose. Rose-oil tincture from Turkish
rose oil 500 drachms, bergamot oil 1 J, sandal- wood oil 3
drops, nutmeg oil 1 drop, musk tincture f drachm, civet
tincture J drachm.
Extrait rose v. d. centifolie. Extract No. 1 from
Pomm. Rose 500 drachms, rose-oil tincture from Turkish
rose oil 500, rose-geranium oil 10, musk tincture, 2J,
sandal-wood oil, 7 drops.
Extrait violette. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Violette
500 drachms, and from Pomm. Cassie 250 ; orris-root
tincture 125, musk tincture 1J, sandal-wood oil 3 drops.
To give the extrait violette an apparently greater con-
centration, it is compounded with a green coloring
tincture. The latter may be prepared by bringing com-
minuted dried spinach leaves into a bottle and pouring
96 per cent, alcohol over them. The result is a hand-
some green coloring matter ; but care must be taken not
to add too much of it to the extrait, as otherwise it
might stain the handkerchief, etc.*
Extrait de violette de Parme. Extract No. 1 from
* This spinach extract unfortunately bleaches very rapidly
when exposed to light, and the extraits colored with it acquire a
dirty-brown color. Hence it is recommended to use the " green
tincture," which can be purchased from the larger manufactories of
volatile oils.
240 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Pomm. Violette 750 drachms, orris-root oil and bergamot
oil each 2J, tinctures of musk, ambergris, and bitter-
almond oil each 1J.
This extrait may also be colored slightly green.
Extrait tubereuse. Extract No. 1 from Pomm. Tube-
reuse 500 drachms, bergamot oil 2 J, Ceylon cinnamon oil
J, musk tincture 1J, storax tincture 2J.
Extrait reseda. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Reseda
750 drachms, and from Pomm. Violette 100 ; bergamot
oil 7J, rose-geranium oil 2J, clove oil 1J, musk tincture
2, ambergris tincture 1.
A trace of the above-mentioned green coloring sub-
stance may be added.
^ Extrait ylang-ylang. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Jasmin, Pomm. Jonquille, Pomm. Orange, and Pomm.
Acacia, each 250 drachms, bergamot oil 7J, angelica
oil 2J, ylang-ylang tincture 500, abelmosk tincture 25,
tonka-bean extract 7J, musk tincture 4, ambergris tinc-
ture 2J.
COMPOUND ODORS (BOUQUETS). Extrait Edelweiss.
Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Jasmin and Pomm,. Tube-
reuse 250 drachms each, and from Pomm. Orange, Pomm.
Heliotrope, and Pomm. Jacinthe 125 each, bergamot oil
10, basil oil 5, tinctures of musk and ambergris each 5,
bitter-almond-oil tincture 2J, tinctures of angelica and
vitivert each 25.
^ Extrait ess-bouquet. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Acacia and Pomm. Cassie each 100 drachms, from
Pomm. Jasmin 325, from Pomm. Rose 75, and from
Pomm. Orange 250 ; bergamot oil 40, Ceylon cinna-
mon oil and clove oil each 5, French rose-geranium
oil 10, sandal-wood oil 2J, licari oil 8, rose-oil tincture
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 241
from Turkish rose oil 75, orris-root tincture 50, tinc-
tures of ambergris and civet each 10, musk tincture 15,
musk-root tincture 37 J, benzoin tincture 15.
Extrait spring flower. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Jasmin, Pomm. Cassie, Pomm. Orange, Pomm. Jonquille,
Pomm. Tubereuse, and Pomm. Violdte each 100 drachms,
from Pomm. Rose 50, from Pomm. Reseda 100, and from
Pomm. Heliotrope and Pomm. Acacia each 50 ; neroli oil
2J, bergamot oil 5, vitivert oil J, rose-oil tincture from
Turkish rose oil 50, musk-root tincture 12J, musk tinc-
ture 5, civet tincture 2J, orris-root tincture 25.
Extrait bouquet Eugenie. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Cassie 100 drachms, from Pomm. Tubereuse 75, from
Pomm. Jasmin 125 ; bergamot oil 10, licari oil 2J, rose-
oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 75, musk-root tinc-
ture 10, cumarin tincture 7J, orVis-root tincture 75,
tinctures of angelica and musk each 10, ambergris tinc-
ture 5.
Extrait excelsior. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Jasmin
200 drachms and from Pomm. Orange and Pomm. Helio-
trope each 100 ; oils of lemon and rose geranium each 4,
rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 60, orris-root
tincture 50, musk tincture 5, abelmosk tincture 10,
opopanax tincture 5, storax tincture 1.
Extrait Frangipani. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Cassie 1 50 drachms, and from Pomm. Jasmin 50 ;
French rose geranium oil 5, cassia oil 2, licari oil 3,
sandal-wood oil 1, orris-root tincture 100, angelica tinc-
ture 8, musk tincture 5, storax tincture 5.
Extrait jockey club. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Orange 150 drachms, from Pomm. Rose 35, from Pomm.
Jasmin 150, and from Pomm. Jonquille and Pomm. Helio-
16
242 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
trope each 30 ; bergamot oil 8, Ceylon cinnamon oil 2,
Portugal oil 6-, cedar oil 1, clove oil 2, tincture of rose
oil from Turkish rose oil and of orris root each 40, musk-
root tincture 8, musk tincture 10, ambergris tincture 3,
vanilla tincture 5.
Extrait opopanax. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Orange 250 drachms, and from Pomm. Heliotrope 125 ;
opopanax oil 10, Ceylon cinnamon oil 5, rose-oil tincture
from Turkish rose oil 125, opopanax tincture 25, orris-
root tincture 62 J, musk tincture 4, ambergris tincture 5.
Extrait patchouly. Extract No. 1 from Pomm. Acacia
100 drachms, patchouli oil 4, clove oil and Portugal oil,
each 2, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 40, orris-
root tincture 30, musk-root tincture 10, vitivert tincture
10, patchouli tincture 1.
Extrait millefleurs'. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Jas-
min 250 drachms, from Pomm. Jonquille 100, Pomm.
Rose 75, Pomm. Acacia. 100, Pomm. Orange and Pomm.
Tubereuse each 150, and Pomm. Cassie 100; bergamot
oil 20, rose geranium oil and Portugal oil each 15, oils
of angelica and sandal wood, each 5, rose-oil tincture
from Turkish rose oil 150, orris-root tincture 250,
vanilla tincture 15, musk-root tincture 35, tolu-balsam
tincture 10, tinctures of storax and patchouli each 5,
musk tincture 30, civet tincture 25.
Extrait bouquet Victoria. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Rose 200 drachms, Pomm. Orange and Pomm. Tubereuse,
each 100, Pomm. Jasmin 300, and Pomm. Heliotrope 200 ;
lemon oil 20, verbena oil 5, French rose geranium oil 10,
musk tincture 20, tinctures of civet and ambergris each 5,
musk-root tincture 40, tolu-balsam tincture 20, orris-root
tincture 150.
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 243
Extrait kiss-me-quick. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Acacia and Pomm. Jonquille each 100 drachms, and
Pomm. Jasmin 40; bergamot oil 4, oil of lemons 2,
rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 30, tinctures of
vitivert and angelica 8, ambergris tincture 4, civet tinc-
ture 2, mnsk tincture 1.
Extrait mogadore. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Jas-
min 100 drachms, from Pomm. Jonquille and Pomm.
Acacia, each 50, from Pomm. Orange 40; bergamot
oil 6, oil of lavender 1, French rose geranium oil 2,
tinctures of musk, ambergris, tolu balsam, and cnmarin,
each 10, tincture of orris root 50.
Extrait bouquet Prince Albert. Extracts No. 1 from
Pomm. Jasmin 150 drachms, from Pomm. Tubereuse,
Pomm. Orange, and Pomm. Cassie each 50, Pomm. Rose
25, neroli oil 2, bergamot oil 4, musk tincture 2, tonka
bean extract 4, angelica tincture 10, ambergris tincture 2.
Extrait muse. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Orange,
Pomm. Heliotrope, and Pomm. Cassie each 50 drachms ;
clove oil 4, cassia oil 2, tinctures of abelmosk and musk-
root each 10, opopanax tincture 4, musk tincture 30,
civet tincture 5, orris-root tincture 50.
Extrait new-mown hay- Extracts No. 1 from Pomm.
Reseda 200 drachms, Pomm. Rose 40, Pomm. Cassie 80,
Pomm. Acacia 40 ; French rose geranium oil 4, berga-
mot oil 10, myrrh oil 5, tonka-bean extract 30, vitivert
tincture 10, musk-root tincture 16, benzoin tincture 4.
Extrait chypre. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Orange
60 drachms, Pomm. Jasmin 40, Pomm. Cassie 110, Pomm.
Heliotrope 40 ; French rose geranium oil 6, bergamot
oil 2, cedar oil f, benzoin tincture 4, orris-root tincture
244 MANUFACTUKE OF PERFUMERY.
30, musk tincture 5, civet tincture 4, abelmosk tinc-
ture 10.
Extrait marechal. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Helio-
trope and Pomm. Orange each 200 drachms, from
Pomm. Jasmin 75 ; oils of sandal wood and cloves each
5, Portugal oil 10, cedar oil 1, rose-oil tincture from
^Turkish rose oil 100, orris-root tincture 75, vitivert tinc-
ture 25, civet tincture 10, musk tincture 20, bitter al-
mond oil tincture 1J.
Extrait mousseline. Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Jas-
min 250 drachms, Pomm. Rose 150, and Pomm. Jonquille,
Pomm. Heliotrope, and Pomm. Cassie, each 125 ; French
rose geranium oil 12J, oil of cloves 10, cassia oil 5, win-
tergreen oil 1, orris-root tincture 125, rose-oil tincture
from Turkish rose oil 100, musk tincture 12J, civet
tincture 10, vitivert tincture 37J, abelmosk tincture 25.
In compiling the abundant choice of receipts for
Extraits d'Odeurs given above, the golden mean has
been chosen in regard to the quality of these odors, they,
when carefully prepared, giving, at a moderate cost of
manufacture, a product which in most cases will satisfy
the demands of lovers of perfumes. To enable the per-
fumer, however, to satisfy the highest demands attention
is called to, and a brief explanation given of, the so-called
" Extraits triple concentres."
For the preparation of these stronger products, the
employment of a stronger foundation, i. e., of more
highly saturated extracts from French flower pomades,
is required. For this purpose the French perfumers pre-
pare, under No. 30, flower pomades of all odors which
are exclusively used for concentrated Extraite. They
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 245
are, of course, correspondingly higher in price than
those prepared from No. 18, which have previously been
treated of.
The method of preparing the extracts from these
pomades, No. 30, is the same as previously described,
the proportion of pomade to alcohol being also the same ;
hence for 2 Ibs. of pomade If quarts of alcohol are to
be used.
The proportions of volatile oils and tinctures given in
the above receipts are also to be retained. The stronger
extracts from the flower pomades are the only measure
in the preparation of the Extraits triple concentres, and
such must be the case since the object of the concentra-
tion of the Extraits is thus completely attained by the
greater prominence of the flower odors from the Extraits
d } Odev/rs.
For the preparation of Extraits d'Odeurs, the French
perfumers also manufacture a concentrated flower extract
of the various odors. This extract is simply dissolved
in alcohol, the solution being effected immediately, so that
this method of preparing Extraits d'Odeurs is the simplest
imaginable. However, the price of such extract (1000
francs = $200 and more per kilogramme = 2.2 Ib.) is a
considerable item, so that most perfumers will prefer the
extracts from the flower pomades as previously described.
EXTRAITS D'ODEURS, QUALITY II. In addition to
the fine extracts given in the preceding section, a small
selection of quite cheap receipts for quality II of such
extracts is here given, the extracts No. 2 offering suffi-
cient material for their preparation. In the introduction
to the previous section, attention has been called to the
fact that quite useful tinctures may be prepared from
246 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
substances leaving behind solid residues, there being also
on hand the second extract from the flower pomades.
Besides the alcohol, such tinctures and extracts cost
only the small trouble of treatment. For this second
quality only half the quantity of volatile oils prescribed
for the best quality is used. Such tinctures, from which
a second extract cannot be had, may, for this purpose, be
diluted one-half with alcohol, which need not be of the
best quality, thus preparing a second quality of them.
The process to be followed is illustrated by a selection
from the first Extrait receipts which have been converted
into Extraits of quality II.
Extrait violette II. Extracts No. 2 from Pomm. Vio-
lette 500 drachms, from Pomm. Cassie 250; bergamot
oil 2J, musk tincture No. 2, 1J, ambergris tincture No.
2, J, diluted with alcohol }, bitter almond oil tincture
No. 2, 1, orris-root tincture No. 2, 125.
Add a small quantity of green coloring substance.
Extrait rose II. Extract No. 2 from Pomm. Rose 500
drachms, African rose geranium oil 4, sandal-wood oil
3 drops, musk tincture No. 2, 2J drachms, rose-oil tinc-
ture from Turkish rose oil 250 drachms diluted with an
equal quantity of alcohol, which may be called rose
tincture No. 2.
Extrait reseda II. Extracts No. 2 from Pomm.
Reseda 750 drachms and from Pomm. Violette 100, ber-
gamot oil 3J, African rose-geranium oil 1, clove oil 1,
musk tincture No. 2, 2, ambergris tincture J diluted
with alcohol J.
Extrait ylang-ylang II. Extracts No. 2 from
Pomm. Jasmin, Pomm. Jonquillej Pomm. Orange, and
Pomm. Acacia each 250 drachms ; bergamot oil 3J,
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 247
angelica oil 1J, ylang-ylang tincture 250 diluted with
the equal quantity of alcohol, abelmosk No. 2, 25, tonka-
bean extract No. 2, 7J, musk tincture No. 2, 4, amber-
gris tincture 1J diluted with the same quantity of
alcohol.
Extrait new-mown hay II. Extracts No. 2 from
Pomm. Reseda 500 drachms, from Pomm. Rose 100,
from Pomm. Cassie 200 and Pomm. Acacia 100 ; pal ma
rosa oil 5, bergamot oil 12J, myrrh oil 6, tonka-bean
extract No. 2, 75, vitivert tincture No. 2, 25, musk-
root tincture No 2, 40, benzoin tincture 5 diluted with
the same quantity of alcohol.
Extrait chypre II. Extracts No. 2, from Pomm.
Orange 150 drachms, from Pomm. Jasmin 100, Pomm.
Cassie 275, and Pomm. Heliotrope 100; palma rosa oil
7J, bergamot oil 2J, cedar oil f , orris-root tincture No.
2, 75, musk tincture No. 2, 12J, abelmosk tincture No.
2, 25, civet tincture 5 diluted with alcohol 5, benzoin
tincture 5 diluted with alcohol 5.
Extrait ess. bouquet II. Extracts No. 2 from Pomm.
Acacia and Pomm. Cassie each 100, from Pomm. Jasmin
375, Pomm. Rose 75, Pomm. Orange 250; bergamot oil
20, Ceylon cinnamon oil and clove oil each 2J, African
rose geranium oil 5, sandal-wood oil If, licari oil 2,
rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 37J diluted with
an equal quantity of alcohol, orris-root tincture No. 2,
50, ambergris tincture 5 diluted with an equal quantity
of alcohol, civet tincture 5 diluted with an equal quan-
tity of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 15, musk-root
tincture No. 2, 37 J, benzoin tincture 7| diluted with, an
equal quantity of alcohol.
248 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Extrait muguet II. Extracts No. 2 from Pomra. Jon-
quille 750 drachms,. Pomm. Jasmin 100, Pomm. Tubereuse
200 and Pomm. Acacia and Pomm. Orange each 100 ;
bergamot oil 3J, oil of lemons 1 J, angelica oil 2 drops,
storax tincture 2| drachms diluted with an equal quan-
tity of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 2J, vanilla tinc-
ture 5, ambergris tincture 1, diluted with an equal
quantity of alcohol, ylang-ylang tincture 50 diluted with
alcohol 50, wintergreen tincture 12 J diluted with alco-
hol 12J, bitter-almond oil 1J diluted with alcohol 1J.
Extrait bouquet Victoria II. Extracts No. 2 from
Pomm. Rose 100 drachms, Pomm. Orange and Pomm.
Tubereuse each 50; Pomm. Jasmin 150, Pomm. Helio-
trope 100; lemon oil 5, verbena oil 1J, African rose
geranium oil 2J, musk tincture No. 2, 10, musk-root tinc-
ture No. 2, 20, orris-root tincture No. 2, 75, civet tincture
1J diluted with alcohol 1 J, ambergris tincture 1 J diluted
with alcohol 1J, tolu-balsam tincture 5 diluted with al-
cohol 5.
Extrait spring flower II. Extracts No. 2 from Pomm.
Jasmin, Pomm. Cassie, Pomm. Orange, Pomm. Jonquille,
Pomm. Tubereuse and Pomm. Violette, each 100 drachms,
from Pomm. Rose 50, Pomm. Reseda 100, and Pomm.
Heliotrope and Acacia, each 50 ; neroli oil 1 J, bergamot
oil 2J, vitivert oil 13 drops, rose-oil tincture from Turkish
rose oil 25 drachms, diluted with alcohol 25, musk-root
tincture No. 2, 12J, musk tincture No. 2, 12J, orris-
root tincture No. 2, 25, civet tincture 1J diluted with
alcohol 1J.
Extrait ixora II. Extracts No. 2 from Pomm. Tube-
reuse 1 25 drachms, from Pomm. Cassie and Pomm. Reseda
each 175; bergamot oil 2J, orris-root tincture No. 2, 125,
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 249
musk tincture No. 2, 10, benzoin tincture 12 J diluted
with alcohol 12J.
Extrait Frangipani II. Extracts No. 2 from Pomrn.
Cassie 375 drachms, and Pomm. Jasmin 125 ; African
rose geranium oil 12, cassia oil 2J, licari oil 3J, sandal-
wood oil 1J, orris-root tincture No. 2, 250, angelica
tincture No. 2, 20, musk tincture No. 2, 12J, storax
tincture 6 diluted with alcohol 6J.
Cologne water , eait de Cologne. Owing to its excellent
properties, Cologne water is, without doubt, one of the
most popular perfumes. It was invented early in the
eighteenth century, and is perhaps the only perfume
which has kept its reputation for so long a time. It
was formerly employed as a medicine in all imaginable
diseases, and even now is in some cases successfully used
in slight ailments, such as headache, nausea, etc.
The success and reputation of Cologne water are the
natural results of a good product prepared with a
thorough knowledge of the subject. However, in order
to be enabled to impart to Cologne water its generally
known excellent qualities, it is necessary to have a
thorough knowledge of the materials used, as well as
to understand the method of fabrication, and the proper
treatment of all.
For the preparation of actually good Cologne water
employment of the best materials is the first condition.
The alcohol must be pure, i. e., free from fusel oil, and
95 to 96 per cent, strong, so as to effect a ready and
complete solution of the volatile oils. The latter also
should be of the best quality and proper age, i. e.,
neither too young nor too old. If too young or too
recently distilled, the aroma is not thoroughly de-
250 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
veloped, and if, on the other hand, too old, they have
lost the greater portion of their aroma, are thickly fluid,
acquire a dark coloration, and are finally converted into
a resinous substance in which condition they are entirely
unfit for finer products. A cool and dry cellar is re-
quired for storing volatile oils, and they must also be
protected from air and sunlight.
Regarding the durability of the volatile oils used in
the preparation of Cologne water, the following may be
said :
Bergamot oil is quite durable ; in well-closed bottles
stored in a cool cellar it keeps quite well for 3 to 4 years.
Oil of lemons is, however, very sensitive, and has to be
especially protected against heat, by which it is readily
decomposed and, so to say, turns sour. Freshly-distilled
neroli oil should never be used, it acquiring its proper
aroma only after being stored for about 2 years ; on the
other hand, it should not be too old. When 6 to 8 years
old, it shows a tendency to rancidity, which can, how-
ever, be prevented by mixing it at the proper time with
an equal quantity of alcohol of the best quality. Petit-
grain oil is apt to spoil when kept for several years, and
hence it is not advisable to have too large a supply of it
on hand. Besides the French variety of this volatile
oil, there has existed for several years past another kind,
namely the Paraguay petit-grain oil, which is about
one-half cheaper than the French. While some con-
sider both oils as equally good, the French product no
doubt deserves the preference. Of lavender oil only the
best French oil, especially made in France for the prepa-
ration of Eau de Cologne, should be used. The price
of the English Mitcham lavender oil, being six times
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 251
that of the French oil, is simply excessive. Of rosemary
oil, an especially fine quality for Cologne water, which
can be highly recommended, is also manufactured in
France. Of balm oil only the best German product
should be taken. The three varieties of volatile oils
last mentioned keep for years, especially when kept in
hermetically-closed bottles in a cool place protected from
the sun.
Rose water and orange-blossom water also need careful
treatment, the bottles containing them requiring to be
well stoppered and kept in a cool place. These waters
being liable to spoil, the supply of them should be
renewed from year to year. As regards the compound-
ing of the volatile oils, it is advisable to mix them in a
capacious glass flask, add at least an equal w r eight of
alcohol of the best quality, shake thoroughly, let the
mixture stand about 14 days, and then in the apparatus
incorporate it with the required quantity of alcohol.
When the alcohol and volatile oils are intimately
mixed, the mixture is allowed to stand quietly for
about 14 days, when solution of the volatile oils will
be complete. Now add, with vigorous agitation, the rose
water and the orange-blossom water, and let the whole
stand quietly to become clear.
Cologne water thus carefully prepared answers all de-
mands. Special attention is here called to the fact that
all manipulation by the addition of fixing or conspicuous
substances is injudicious. An addition of tincture of
musk or civet should particularly be avoided. '"'Nervous
people immediately detect such additions, even if present
only in very small quantities, and in most cases refuse
the Cologne water containing them.
252 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Experience having shown that all alcoholic perfumes
develop their proper aroma only after storing for some
time, provision must be made to have always a sufficient
supply of Cologne water on hand. It is best to keep it
in large glass balloons in a cool cellar. Wooden vessels
are impracticable on account of their permeability and
other evils. Metallic vessels, if used, should be tinned.
Vessels defective in this respect, or tinned with tin con-
taining lead, exert an injurious effect upon the aroma of
the water. In the latter case, lead is dissolved, even if
only in small quantities, and a dirty precipitate injurious
to the odor of the Cologne water is formed.
The filtering of the Cologne water is best effected
through white filtering paper and a glass funnel ; the
paper, however, should not have been bleached with
chlorine, the odor of the latter being readily perceived
and having an injurious effect upon the aroma of the
water. Filtering should be avoided as much as possible
by carefully decanting off the clear water and filtering
the sediment only. Filtering through charcoal, mag-
nesia, or other clarifying agents, should not be made
use of for fine perfumes, their odor being injured by all
such means.
In the following a selection of receipts for Cologne
water is given ; it is, however, especially mentioned that
only good, pure materials must be used even for the
inferior qualities. A receipt for the now fashionable
" Maiglockchen Eau de Cologne 7 ' is also given.
Cologne water, quality I. Bring into a large glass
balloon 95 to 96 per cent, alcohol of the best quality
7.9 gallons, lemon oil 14.11 ozs., bergamot oil 15, neroli
oil 4.23, French extra lavender oil 1.05 oz., rosemary
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 253
oil 0.7, best German balm oil 0.42 ; mix thoroughly,
and after 14 days add best orange-blossom water and
rose water each 2.64 quarts. Mix again thoroughly,
and then let stand until wanted for use.
Cologne water, quality II. Bring into a large glass
balloon 95 to 96 per cent, alcohol of the best quality
7.9 gallons, lemon oil 10.58 ozs., bergamot oil 12.34,
neroli oil 1.76, French extra lavender oil, 0.8, rosemary
oil 0.63, finest German balm oil 0.35, French petit-grain
oil 0.8 ; mix thoroughly, and after 14 days add best
orange-blossom water and rose water each 2.64 quarts.
Mix again thoroughly, and then let stand until wanted
for use.
Cologne water, quality III. Bring into a large glass
balloon 95 to 96 per cent, alcohol of the best quality
7.9 gallons, lemon oil 7.05 ozs., bergamot oil 7.94,
Portugal oil 3.52, French petit-grain oil 1.58, finest
rosemary oil 0.52, lavender oil 0.7, orange-blossom water
and rose water each 1.58 quarts, distilled water 2.11
quarts. Proceed in the same manner as given for quali-
ties I and II.
Cologne water, quality IV. Bring into a large glass
balloon alcohol free from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, lavender
oil 2.64 ozs., Portugal oil 2.64, petit-grain oil 0.7, rose-
mary oil 0.52, bergamot oil 3.52, lemon oil 3.52, dis-
tilled water 7.9 quarts. If this quality, after standing
for some weeks, should not become clear, use some mag-
nesia in filtering, or use less water.
Cologne water, quality V. Bring into a glass balloon
alcohol free from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, Portugal oil
0.88 oz., rosemary oil 0.88, lavender oil, bergamot oil,
and lemon oil each 1.76. After standing for 14 days,
254 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
add 7.9 quarts of distilled water. Proceed in the same
manner as given for quality IV.
Maiglb'ckchen Eau de Cologne. 95 to 96 per cent, alco-
hol of the finest quality 10.-56 quarts, bergamot oil and
lemon oil each 3.52 ozs., neroli oil 0.7, French extra
lavender oil 0.21, rosemary oil 0.14, best German balm
oil 0.7, ylang-ylang oil 0.17, maiglookchen (lily of the
valley) extract 2.11 pints.
Dissolve the 0.17 oz. of ylang-ylaug oil by itself in
0.8 pint of alcohol of the best quality, and when the
solution is entirely clear add it to the rest in the balloon.
After standing for 14 days add carefully orange-blossom
water and rose water each 1.05 pints ; shake thoroughly
and let the mixture stand quietly until perfectly clear.
Various other receipts for Cologne water. I. Bergamot
oil 2 drachms, oil of lemon 2 drachms, oil of origanum
6 drops, oil of rosemary 20 drops, alcohol 1 pint, orange-
flower water 1 oz.
II. Bergamot oil 14 parts, citron oil 34, oil of neroli
(petale) 20, oil of neroli (bigarade) 7, rosemary oil 14,
grape spirit 6000.
III. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oils of rosemary, berga-
mot, cedrat, and lemon each 2 drachms, oil of neroli
1 drachm, water (warm) 2 pints ; mix, filter until clear.
IV. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oil of lemon 5 drachms,
oil of bergamot 4 drachms, Portugal oil 3f drachms,
neroli oil f drachm, petit-grain oil and rosemary oil
each J drachm, lavender oil 25 drops, oil of cloves
6 drops, extract Pomm. jasmine 4 ozs., water (warm)
32 ozs. ; mix.
V. Cologne spirits 1 gallon, rosemary oil J oz., lemon
oil 1 oz., lavender oil 1J ozs., cinnamon oil 20 drops,
warm water 1 quart; mix.
ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. 255
Eau de Lavande. For eau de lavande, but two receipts
are given : Eau de vie de Lavande double ambree and
eau de Lavande double, the former being a very agreeable
perfume for toilet purposes, and is used as an addition to
wash-water as well as to baths and for fumigating. On
account of its balsamic constituents, eau de Lavande
ambree in being manufactured cannot be mixed with
water, as the latter would produce an emulsion which
cannot be removed. Eau de Lavande double is used for
the toilet, in the wash- water, or the bath. It is very
popular, its action upon the skin and nerves being re-
freshing and stimulating.
Eau de vie de Lavande double ambree. Alcohol of the
best quality 5.18 quarts, best quality of lavender oil
3.52 ozs., French rose geranium oil 0.7, oils of cassia,
bergamot, lemon, and French petit grain each 0.88,
Peru balsam 5.29, orris-root tincture 2.11 quarts, amber-
gris tincture 5.29 ozs., musk tincture 0.28, storax tinc-
ture 8.81, tolu-balsam tincture 5.29, benzoin tincture
10.58. No water should be added.
Eau de Lavande double. Best quality of alcohol
10.56 quarts, best lavender oil 8.81 ozs., Portugal oil
and bergamot oil each 1.76. After 14 days add 2.11
pints of orange-blossom water.
Aqua mellis. Coriander seed 7 Ibs., cloves 12 ozs.,
storax 8 ozs., nutmegs (bruised) 8 ozs., lemon-peel 10
ozs., calamus 6 ozs., proof spirit 15 pints, water 8 pints.
Macerate for a month in a closed vessel, then distil
22 pints, and to the distillate add : Orange-flower water
5 pints, rose oil 24 drops, ambergris 1 grain, vanilla 2
ozs. Macerate for 8 days and filter.
Eau de Lisbonne. Lemon oil 2J ozs., Portugal oil
4J ozs., rose oil 4J drachms, alcohol 5 quarts.
256 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER IX.
DRY PERFUMES.
IN ancient times dry perfumes were almost exclusively
used, but, independent of fumigating agents, which will
be considered later on, the consumption of dry or solid
perfumes is at present a limited one. Sachet powders
(poudres pour sachets) are, however, still manufactured
in large quantities. The preparation of solid perfumes
with the assistance of paraffiue has been recently com-
menced, but up to the present time such perfumes 'have
not become of any importance. Smelling salts may also
be classed among the dry perfumes.
SACHET POWDERS. Sachet powders (poudres pour
sachets) are generally put into silk or satin bags or into
ornamental paper envelopes and are useful for perfuming
clothes, drawers, trunks, desks, letter paper, etc.
The incorporation of the powders with bags or
envelopes is effected by dividing them between thin
layers of cotton, bringing the cotton together with the
powder in fine tissue paper into the shape of the respec-
tive bag, cushion, etc., and then inclosing them in the
bag or envelope.
A selection of receipts for such powders is here given.
Their manufacture is not difficult ; however, the weigh-
ing off of the constituents should be conscientiously done,
and in mixing the powders with the volatile oils, etc.,
DRY PERFUMES. 257
care should be had not to cause any unnecessary dust
and consequent loss of powder. After mixing, the pow-
der is passed through a sieve.
Sachet a la rose. Ground rose leaves, ground rose
wood and pulverized starch each 50 drachms, Turkish
rose oil 1J, rose-geranium oil 2J, oil of cloves 1, berga-
mot oil 2J, musk tincture 1.
Sachet a la violette. Ground orris root 125 drachms,
ground lavender flowers and pulverized starch each 50,
liquid orris-root oil* 2J, sandal-wood oil J, musk tinc-
ture 2, extrait violette 25.
Heliotrope sachet powder. Ground lavender flowers
50 drachms, ground orris root and ground rose leaves
each 25, ground benzoin 10, pulverized starch 50, berga-
mot oil 10, rose geranium oil 2J, oil of cloves and musk
tincture each 1J, vanilla tincture 12J, extrait heliotrope
25, oil of bitter almonds 2 drops.
Ylang-ylang sachet powder. Ground starch 100
drachms, orris-root powder 25, ground lavender flowers
12J, ground vitivert root and ground rose wood each
25, bergamot oil 2J, ylang-ylang oil 1, tinctures of musk
and of cumarin each 1J, extrait ylang-ylang 20.
Jockey club sachet. Ground orris root, ground rose
leaves and ground rose wood each 50 drachms, ground
lavender flowers 25, African rose geranium oil 5, oils
of Ceylon cinnamon and bergamot each 2J, oils of cloves
and cedar each 1, musk tincture 2J, civet tincture 1,
extrait jockey club 22 J.
* The so-called liquid orris-root oil is not pure orris-root oil, but
generally a distillate of orris-root with bergamot oil ; there are, how-
ever, also products in which the orris root is distilled with copaiba
balsam oil and cedar oil.
17
258 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Sachet aux millefleurs. Ground starch 50 drachms,
ground orris root, ground lavender flowers, ground rose
wood, and exhausted vanilla pulverized, each 50 drachms,
pulverized cloves 20, bergamot oil and African geranium
oil each 2J, verbena oil 1, tincture of benzoin and musk
root each 5, musk tincture 5.
Lily of the valley sachet powder. Pulverized starch
50 drachms, ground orris root 25, ground lavender
flowers and ground rose wood each 12J, ground vitivert
root and ground benzoin each 25, bergamot oil 5, winter-
green oil 2, ylang-ylang oil and angelica oil each J,
bitter almond oil 2 drops, storax tincture 5 drachms,
musk tincture 1J, extrait muguet 25.
Patchouli sachet powder. Ground patchouli leaves
100, ground rose leaves and ground lavender flowers,
each 25, patchouli oil 2J, oil of cloves 1, bergamot oil
and African geranium oil each 2J.
Frangipani sachet powder. Pulverized starch 25
drachms, ground orris root 75, ground rose leaves 50,
ground lavender flowers 25, Portugal oil 5, petit-grain
oil and African geranium oil, 2J, Ceylon cinnamon oil
1J, musk tincture 2J, civet tincture 1J, tinctures of
cumarin and vitivert each 10.
Victoria sachet powder. Ground lavender flowers 50
drachms, ground rose wood and ground rose leaves each
25, ground orange peel 12J, ground benzoin 25, ground
vitivert root 12J, Turkish rose oil 1, bergamot oil 2J,
oils of cloves and verbena each 1, musk tincture 1J,
civet tincture 1.
Reseda sachet powder. Ground orris root 100 drachms,
ground rose leaves 50, ground rose wood 25, clove oil,
African geranium oil, and bergamot oil each 2J, musk-
DRY PERFUMES. 259
root tincture 10, vanilla tincture 5, musk tincture 1,
extrait reseda 25.
Musk sachet powder. Ground musk root, ground ex-
hausted musk sacs, and ground lavender flowers, each
50 drachms, ground benzoin 25, cassia oil, palma-rose
oil, and clove oil each 2J, musk tincture 22J.
Ess-bouquet sachet powder. Ground rose wood and
ground lavender flowers each 50 drachms, ground viti-
vert root 25, ground opopanax 12J, ground orris root
25, bergamot oil and lemon oil each 2J, clove oil 1,
Ceylon cinnamon oil 1 J, African geranium oil 2J, sandal-
wood oil and licari oil each 1, musk tincture 2J, civet
tincture 1J, extrait ess-bouquet 25.
Neiv-mown hay sachet powder. Pulverized starch 25
drachms, ground rose leaves and ground lavender
flowers, each 50, ground orris root and ground benzoin,
each 25, bergamot oil 5, angelica oil and Java cananga
oil each 1J, tonka-bean extract 7J, musk tincture H,
vitivert tincture 7J.
Orange sachet powder. Ground orange peels 100
drachms, ground lemon peels 50, ground lavender
flowers 25, Portugal oil 10, neroli oil and petit grain
oil each 1J, bergamot oil 2J, musk-tincture 1J, musk-
root tincture 10.
SOLID PERFUMES WITH PARAFFINED The solid
perfumes simply consist of hard paraffine, which, when
melted, is perfumed with a corresponding quantity of
any desired perfume-essence and poured into moulds.
A few mixtures for such perfumes are here given :
White rose. Rose geranium oil and bergamot oil each
10 drachms, patchouli oil and oil of cloves If.
260 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Ess-bouquet. Coriander oil 1 drachm, oil of cloves
7, nutmeg oil 3.5, lavender oil 10, sandal-wood oil 3.5,
bergamot oil 30, rose oil and rose-geranium oil each 2,
neroli oil 0.6.
Lavender odor. Lavender oil 50 drachms, bergamot
oil 25, cinnamon oil 0.3, geranium oil 2.5, neroli oil 0.5.
Eau, de Cologne. Bergamot oil and lime oil each 30
drachms, lemon oil and neroli oil each 15, rosemary oil
5, rose geranium oil 0.6.
SMELLING SALTS. Smelling salts are ammoniacal
perfumes in a solid form, Preston salt (sel de Preston)
being one of the most popular. It is generally prepared
by intimately rubbing together in a porcelain mortar
equal parts of sal ammoniac or ammonium carbonate
and lime freshly slaked to a powder, and perfuming the
mixture, according to the quality of volatile salts desired,
with a finer or inferior perfume.
William W. Bartlett prepares Preston salt without
lime according to the following receipt : Powdered chlo-
ride of ammonium 1 J ozs., powdered carbonate of potas-
sium 1 oz. 6 drachms, coarsely powdered carbonate of
ammonium 3 drachms, oils of clove and bergamot each
10 drops.
Mr. Bartlett also gives a formula fora " menthol pun-
gent" which is quite agreeable to the smell and a novelty
for headache and faintness. It is prepared by leaving
out the essential oils in the above formula and substi-
tuting in their place 1 drachm of menthol.
White smelling salt consists essentially of perfumed
carbonate of ammonia. There are several receipts for
it, one frequently used being as follows : Mix in a capa-
cious porcelain mortar 2.2 Ibs. of ammonium carbonate
DRY PERFUMES. 261
with 1.1 lb. of ammonia, cover the mortar and let it
stand quietly. In the course of a few days the contents
have been converted into normal carbonate of ammonia.
The latter is reduced to a coarse powder and per-
fumed with bergamot oil 0.56 drachm, lavender oil 0.9,
nutmeg oil, clove oil, and rose oil each 0.28, cinnamon
oil 2.82.
The incorporation of the volatile oils is effected by
first triturating about ^ of the salt with the volatile
oils and then gradually incorporating with this perfumed
mass the rest of the salt, a uniform distribution of the
odor being in this manner effected.
262 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER X.
FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC.
, FUMIGATING agents are divided into liquid and dry,
the first being alcoholic solutions, and perhaps most
popular. They consist of extractions from resins, bal-
sams, leaves, flowers, seeds, wood, and roots, compounded
with volatile oils, alcohol, and alcoholic extracts from
French flower pomades.
It should be the aim -of the perfumer to compound
these substances so that a harmonious blending together
of all the ingredients is attained. The object of fumi-
gating living rooms, sleeping rooms, and sick chambers
is not only to make abode in these rooms more agreeable
by an attempt to cover the disagreeable odors, but chiefly
to render them innoxious, thus combining the useful with
the agreeable.
For several years past a strong prejudice against fumi-
gating has been developed. Such prejudice rnay be justi-
fied in certain cases, especially when the fumigating agents
contain musk or are otherwise incorrectly composed. An
addition of musk, even in very small quantities, causes
nervous persons to dislike fumigating agents containing
it, because it is a well-known fact that musk excites the
nerves in a high degree, and hence in most cases fumigat-
ing with agents containing it does more harm than good.
The mode of fumigating has also to be taken into con-
FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, ETC. 263
sideration. It is, for instance, entirely incorrect to place
the fumigating agent upon very hot iron, a hojb stove-
pipe, or glowing coals, because in evaporating upon hot
iron, it leaves behind an empyreumatic, pungent odor
excitatory to cough, while the actual aroma is lost and
thus the object of fumigating is frustrated.
To derive the best effects from the fumigating agent
it should be placed upon a moderately warm article so
that it will slowly evaporate. Liquid fumigating agents
may also be mixed in a porcelain vessel with distilled
water. By placing the vessel upon a warm stove, evapo-
ration proceeds at a still slower rate, because the fumigat-
ing agent can only evaporate together with the water,
whereby its aroma becomes still more agreeable. The
use of rose water or orange water instead of distilled
water considerably enhances the success of fumigating.
The so-called atomizers may here be mentioned. They
are very practicable for cold fumigating, i. e., for the dis-
tribution of pine odor, Cologne water, etc. On account
of their content of musk the atomization of Extraits
d'Odeurs in the presence of nervous people cannot be
recommended.
The dry fumigating agents, such as powders, pastilles,
paper, and lacquer, are less popular than the fluid,- it
being necessary for the purpose of fumigating to place
them upon hot articles, heat them, or burn them. These
manipulations develop more or less smoke, which fre-
quently exerts a disagreeable effect upon the respiratory
organs. The most injurious of these methods of hot
fumigation is that by means of hot coals, whereby the
aroma of the fumigating agent is largely destroyed, and
the very injurious gas emanating from the coals is
264 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
inhaled. A heated piece of sheet-iron is, however, very
suitable for fumigation by means of powder or lacquer.
Scatter the powder upon it or coat it with the lacquer.
Several approved receipts for liquid and dry fumi-
gating agents are here given.
FUMIGATING ESSENCES AND VINEGARS. Great care
should be exercised in making the following receipts for
liquid fumigating agents. After mixing, shake thor-
oughly, and let the product stand quietly for at least
several weeks, the aroma of all alcoholic perfumes being-
improved by storing for some time. It need scarcely
be said that alcohol of the finest quality is to be used,
since, if it contains fusel oil, the attainment of a fine
product is absolutely impossible. To decrease the cost
of manufacture, it might be permissible to increase the
proportion of alcohol, but an inferior quality of it should,
under no conditions, be employed.
Rose-flower fumigating essence. Alcohol, extract No.
1, from French -rose pomade and benzoin tincture each
1 quart, musk-root tincture No. 1, 8f ozs., Turkish
rose oil and clove oil each 2| drachms, French rose-
geranium oil 5J drachms. Dissolve the rose oil in the
other volatile oils.
Flower fumigating essence, heliotrope. Alcohol and
extract No. 1 from French heliotrope pomade each 1
quart, vanilla tincture No. 1 and orris-root tincture
each 1 pint, tinctures of benzoin and tolu balsam each
\ pint, musk-root tincture No. 1, 7 ozs., cumarin tinc-
ture 5J ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., French rose-geranium
oil 11 \ drachms, clove oil 5J drachms, best lavender oil
1 1 J drachms.
FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, ETC. 265
Violet flower fumigating essence. Alcohol 1 quart,
extracts No. 1 from French-violet pomade and cassie
pomade each 1 pint, orris-root tincture No. 1, 1 quart,
benzoin tincture 1 pint, storax tincture J- pint, abel-
mosk tincture No. 1 4J ozs., ambergris tincture 11 J-
drachms, orris-root oil 2f drachms, bergamot oil 11 J
drachms, best lavender oil 5J drachms, myrrh oil 1J
drachms, basil oil 2f drachms.
Oriental-flower fumigating essence. Alcohol 1 quart,
extract from French-rose pomade 17 J ozs., extracts
from French-jasmine pomade, jonquille pomade, helio-
trope pomade and cassie pomades each 7 ozs., vanilla
tincture 7 ozs., tinctures of orris root, tonka beans, and
musk root each 3J ozs., benzoin tincture 8J ozs., tolu-
balsam tincture 4J ozs., storax tincture 5J ozs., oliba-
num tincture 3J ozs., ambergris tincture and bergamot
oil each 1} ozs., Ceylon cinnamon oil 5J drachms, best
lavender oil 11 ozs., Turkish rose oil and clove oil each
5J drachms, neroli oil 2J drachms, Peru balsam 3} ozs.
Pine odor (for atomizing) No. 1. Alcohol 2 quarts,
pine oil (from Pinus picea) 7 ozs., bergamot oil 5J
drachms.
Pine odw (for atomizing) No. 2. Alcohol 2 quarts,
dwarf-pine oil (from Plnus pumilio) 5J ozs., oil of
lemons 5J drachms.
Juniper odor. Alcohol 2 quarts, extra fine juniper
berry oil 3J ozs., best lavender oil 5J drachms, juniper
tincture 8J ozs.
Pine odor or juniper odor may also be mixed in a
vessel with water, and thus used for fumigating.
Fumigating balsam. Alcohol 3 quarts, orris-root tine-
266 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
ture 1 quart, tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam, and storax
each 17 J ozs., olibanum tincture 8f ozs., tinctures of
abelmosk and musk-root each 3J ozs., vanilla tincture
If ozs., Peru balsam 4J ozs., bergamot oil If ozs., lemon
oil 14 drachms, African rose geranium oil 11 J- drachms,
clove oil and cassia oil each 14 drachms, petit-grain oil
11 J drachms, fine lavender oil If ozs.
Fumigating water. Alcohol 10 quarts, orris-root tinc-
ture No. 2, tinctures of storax, benzoin, and tolu balsam
each 1 quart, abelmosk tincture No. 2, 7 ozs., olibanum
tincture 8f ozs., Peru balsam and lavender oil each
3J ozs., cassia oil and bergamot oil each 1 oz., thyme
oil \ oz., clove oil and palma-rosa oil each 1 oz.
Fumigating vinegar. Alcohol 2 quarts, orris-root tinc-
ture 1 quart, benzoin tincture 1 pint, tinctures of tolu
balsam and storax each J pint, musk-root tincture
4J ozs., tinctures of vitivert and vanilla each 3J ozs.,
Peru balsam If ozs., lavender oil and clove oil each
8J drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil and African rose-
geranium oil each 5J drachms, acetic acid 4J ozs.
FUMIGATING POWDERS. The lavender flowers, mari-
gold flowers (Calendula officinalis), rose leaves, etc., used
in the preparation of fumigating powders are not pul-
verized, but so far comminuted with a suitable instru-
ment as to form a distinctly colored mixture. To dissolve
the volatile oils, they are thoroughly mixed with the alco-
holic extracts mentioned in the receipts. The perfume
thus obtained is finally incorporated with the powders
by rubbing together with the hands. To prevent loss
of perfume, it is mixed with the powders in a porcelain
or enamelled vessel.
Ordinary fumigating powder. Lavender flowers, mari-
FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, ETC. 267
gold flowers, corn flowers, rose leaves, rasped orris root
each 2 Ibs., cloves and cinnamon each 3J ozs., rasped
sanders wood 17 J ozs., rasped cedar wood 8f ozs., fumi-
gating balsam 17 J ozs., bergamot oil and African rose-
geranium oil each If ozs., lavender oil 11J drachms.
Besides the above-mentioned dry constituents, the resi-
dues from odoriferous substances, such as vanilla, orris
root, vitivert root, juniper berries, etc., employed in the
preparation of tinctures may be used for ordinary fumi-
gating powders.
Rose fumigating powder. Rose leaves and rose wood
each 2 Ibs., lavender flowers and sanders wood each
1 lb., corn flowers \ lb., tinctures of musk root and
abelmosk each If ozs., African rose-geranium oil 1 oz.,
Turkish rose oil 2f drachms, bergamot oil 8.J drachms,
clove oil 2f drachms, nutmeg oil 1J drachms, extract
from French rose pomade 3J ozs.
Violet fumigating powder. Rasped orris root 4 Ibs.,
lavender flowers and rasped sanders wood each 1 lb.,
orris-root tincture, abelmosk tincture, and bergamot oil
each If ozs., orris-root oil, basil oil, and Ceylon-cinna-
mon oil each 2f drachms, extract from French cassie
pomade If ozs.
Orange fumigating powder. Orange peels 4 Ibs.,
orange flowers and marigold flowers each 1 lb., musk-root
tincture and Portugal oil each If ozs., petit-grain oil 5J
drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, extract from French
orange flower pomade 3J ozs.
New-mown hay fumigating powder. Lavender flowers
2 Ibs., rose-leaves, rasped sanders wood, and rasped orris
root each 1 lb., powdered benzoin, Roman camomile,
curled mint and balm each J lb., exhausted tonka beans
268 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
1 lb., patchouli leaves and bergamot oil each 11 J
drachms, African rose-geranium oil 8J drachms, tonka-
bean extract and abelmosk tincture each If ozs., extract
from French reseda pomade 3J ozs.
FUMIGATING PAPER. Bring into a capacious shal-
low dish a quantity of fumigating balsam and repeatedly
draw sheets of card-board through it, allowing the sheets
to thoroughly drain off and dry after each drawing
through. After repeating the operation about four
times, the sheets will be sufficiently perfumed and are
then coated by means of a fine brush with a solution of
gum-arabic in rose water. This gives to the sheets a
dull lustre, while the thin layer of gum-arabic also pre-
vents the volatilization of the aroma. The sheets thus
perfumed are cut up into pieces the size of a playing
card, and six to twelve such pieces put up in an envelope.
For use the paper is not ignited, but only heated. With
one such piece a room can be several times perfumed.
It may be remarked that before perfuming, the name of
the firm, directions for use, etc., are generally printed
upon the card-board.
FUMIGATING PASTILLES. Some perfumers make
more or less a specialty of the manufacture of fumigating
pastilles. They are generally of a red or black color,
different perfumes, names and qualities.
To prepare them, the finely pulverized substances are
passed through a sieve and mixed in a capacious dish
with the volatile oils, tinctures, etc. The mixture of
powder and perfume is then made into a mass with a
mucilage of gum tragacanth, which is thoroughly
kneaded to make it homogeneous.
The saltpetre given in the receipts is dissolved by
FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, ETC. 269
itself in distilled water and last of all added to the mass.
Its object is to keep the pastilles burning after ignition.
As regards the mucilage of gum-tragacanth, it may be
said that it readily spoils, especially in summer. When
it begins to get watery it is already useless and soon ac-
quires a bad odor ; by decomposition it loses its cementing
power. Hence only a sufficient quantity for immediate
use should be made at one time.
The moulding of the pastilles is very simple. A num-
ber of tin cones into which the mass is pressed are used
for the purpose. After standing for a short time the
pastilles are taken from the moulds and allowed to dry.
Ordinary red fumigating pastilles. Pulverized san-
ders wood and pulverized Sumatra benzoin each 2 Ibs.,
finely pulverized sandarac and olibanum each 1 lb.,
saltpetre 4J ozs. dissolved in distilled water ; clove oil
5J drachms, palma-rosa oil 11 drachms, lavender oil
14 drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as
required.
Ordinary black fumigating pastilles. Charcoal 2
Ibs., finely pulverized Sumatra benzoin 2 Ibs., finely
pulverized olibanum 1 lb., saltpetre 4J ozs., dissolved
in distilled water ; lavender oil, cassia oil, and citronella
oil each 11 \ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as
much as required.
Musk fumigating pastilles. Pulverized genuine linden
charcoal 2 Ibs., pulverized musk root and orris root
each 1 lb., pulverized sanders wood, Siam benzoin, and
abelmosk each J lb., saltpetre 4J ozs., dissolved in dis-
tilled water; Tonkin musk 1J drachms, triturated in
distilled water ; African-rose geranium oil, Portugal
270 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
and cedar oil each 5J drachms. Mucilage of gum-
tragacanth as much as required.
Rose fumigating pastilles. Pulverized sanders wood
2 Ibs., powdered sandarac and Siam benzoin each 1 lb.,
carmine, dissolved in rose water, 1 \ drachms ; saltpetre
3J ozs., bergamot oil 5J drachms, clove oil, Turkish
rose oil, and French rose-geranium oil each 2.75
drachms. Gum-tragacanth dissolved in rose water as
much as required.
Violet fumigating pastilles. Powdered orris root 2
Ibs., pulverized sanders wood 1 lb., pulverized Siam
benzoin and opopanax each J lb., saltpetre 3J ozs.,
dissolved in distilled water ; tola-balsam tincture 3J
ozs., orris-root oil and bergamot oil each 5J drachms,
myrrh oil 2| drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth
as much as required.
Millefleurs fumigating pastilles. Pulverized linden
charcoal 2 Ibs., pulverized sanders wood, Siam benzoin,
and orris root each 1 lb., pulverized olibanum J- lb. ;
saltpetre 4J ozs., dissolved in distilled water ; bergamot
oil and African rose-geranium oil each 14 drachms,
Ceylon cinnamon oil, Paraguay petit-grain oil, and
juniper-berry oil each 5J drachms, Peru balsam 1}
ozs., civet tincture 5J drachms, musk-root tincture 3J
ozs. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as re-
quired.
Fumigating lacquer. Fumigating lacquer consists
chiefly of resins, to which sufficient liquid storax is
added to render the mass plastic, so that sticks of any
desired length and thickness can be formed therefrom.
The resins and licorice mentioned in the receipt given
below are gradually and very carefully melted in an
FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, ETC. 271
iron pan over a gas or petroleum flame. To prevent
the resins from scorching, the bottom of the pan must
constantly be kept free with a small iron spatula.
When the mass is perfectly fluid the Frankfort black is
added, and the whole thoroughly worked until no more
lumps of Frankfort black are present. The pan is then
taken from the fire, and, after allowing the mass to
cool somewhat, it is perfumed with the thoroughly
mixed perfume.
A lithographic stone, not too small, is used for giving
the fumigating lacquer a round form. The stone is
rubbed with a rag moistened with a very small quantity
of olive oil. A small portion of the still very warm
mass is then poured upon the stone and rolled with the
hands, which should also be moistened with a little olive
oil, into sticks of desired thickness. The sticks are cut
into the desired lengths while the lacquer is still warm,
and the operation is thus continued until the'entire mass
is worked up. The mass in the pan must, of course, be
constantly kept liquid.
Siam benzoin, olibanum, and myrrh each 8f ozs.,
storax as free from water as possible 3J ozs., licorice
17 J ozs., Peru balsam 3J ozs., Frankfort black 5J ozs.,
bergamot oil 14 drachms, African rose-geranium oil,
cassia oil, juniper-berry oil, and eucalyptus oil each
11 J drachms.
272 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER XI.
I FOR cleansing and preserving the teeth and gums,
soaps, powders, and tinctures are used, and for removing
foul breath, mouth-waters.
rreat care is required in compounding dentifrices
and mouth-waters, and special attention must be paid
to the correct selection of the material. jThe substances
used must be chemically pure, and no Caustic or sharp
or grating materials, such as pumice, sand, ossa sepice,
etc., should be employed, they destroying the enamel of
the teeth.
The coloring substances used to give the dentifrices
and mouth-waters a pleasing appearance should under
no condition be injurious or poisonous, such as, for in-
stance, brilliant rosa, cinnabar, aniline, chrome yellow,
r picric acid, etc. | The perfumes have alstrto be carefully
I selected, and all repugnant volatile oils and tinctures,
\ such as bitter-almond oil, sandal -wood oil, musk tinc-
I ture, etc., should be avoided. ] On the other hand,
/ peppermint oil forms the principal constituent of the
perfume for most dentifrices and mouth-waters, this
preference being not only due to its agreeable odor, but
chiefly to its pleasant, refreshing, and stimulating action
upon our organs.
In accordance with recent medical directions and
DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. 273
opinions soap is again employed, and justly so, for the
better cleansing of the teeth, whilst formerly it was
generally considered injurious. However, though soap
is innocuous to the teeth, it should be used in very
limited quantities, since its introduction into the mouth
is repugnant to many persons, producing in many cases
vomiting. The quality of the soap must also be taken
into consideration, and only the best neutral soap in the
form of a powder, such as is used for fine milled soaps,
should be employed.
The alcohol used for the tooth and mouth-waters
more correctly tinctures should be perfectly free from
fusel oil, and of 95 to 96 per cent, strength. The best
qualities of volatile oils should be taken, and the tinc-
tures prepared with the greatest care.
The dentifrices for preventing caries, among which
the thymol preparations are the most prominent, deserve
special attention. The most celebrated physicians have
long since recognized thymol as an antiseptic, it being
much used in hospitals, and is frequently preferred to
carbolic acid. For this reason thymol preparations should
be used for preserving the teeth. They render good ser-
vice, especially in the case of hollow teeth, as they re-
move the foul odor and protect the sound teeth from
becoming hollow. For cleansing artificial teeth thymol
tooth-water can be especially recommended. Great care
should, therefore, be exercised in the preparation of these
thymol dentifrices. On the other hand, according to
medical opinions, dentifrices containing salicylic acid
cannot be recommended, the acid, it is claimed, being
very injurious to the enamel of the teeth.
Glycerin, which occurs in several receipts for denti-
18
274 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
frices and mouth-waters, fulfills a double object ; on the
one hand, its action upon the teeth and mouth is bene-
ficial, and, on the other, it covers the naturally bitter
taste of many substances contained in the preparations,
and thus makes them more agreeable to use.
The receipts for dentifrices and mouth-waters here
given have been thoroughly tested, and can be highly
recommended.
Tooth and mouth waters. Thymol tooth-water. Alcohol
of best quality 5 quarts, chemically pure glycerin of
28 B. 17 J ozs., crystallized thymol 1 oz., white
thyme oil and best peppermint oil each 1J ozs., tinc-
tures of arnica and guaiacum each If ozs., cochineal
tincture, for coloring, 2f to 3J ozs.
Bring all the ingredients into a glass balloon, shake
thoroughly, and protect the liquid from sun-light.
The cochineal tincture is prepared from 14 ozs. of
cochineal and 1 quart of alcohol of best quality, the
arnica tincture from 2 Ibs. of arnica root and 2J quarts
of alcohol of best quality, and the guaiacum tincture
from 5J ozs. of guaiacum-wood and 1 quart of alcohol
of best quality.
Eau dentifrice Botot. Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts,
chemically pure glycerin of 28 B. 17f ozs., peppermint
oil 2 ozs., clove oil 11 drachms, anise-seed oil 5 drachms,
ratany tincture and vanilla tincture each 5J ozs., Peru-
vian bark tincture If ozs., sanders-wood tincture, as
coloring matter, 3J ozs. Proceed as above.
The sanders-wood tincture is prepared by macerating
5J ozs. of red sanders wood with 1 quart of alcohol.
Eau dentifrice Orientate. Alcohol of best quality 5
quarts, peppermint oil and rose-geranium oil each 1 J ozs.,
DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. 275
clove oil 11 J drachms, extrait rose and ratany tincture
each 3J ozs., vanilla tincture If ozs. Proceed as above
and color rose color with corallin tincture.
The ratany tincture is prepared from 17 J ozs. of ratany
root and 1 quart alcohol, and the corallin tincture from
17 J ozs. of corallin and 1 quart alcohol.
Violet mouth-water. Tincture of benzoin 7 parts, tinc-
ture of ratany 30, tincture of myrrh 60, rose water 250,
tincture of orris root 500, alcohol 250.
Antiseptic gargle. The following solution is recom-
mended for sterilizing the mouth after the teeth have
been cleansed with a tooth-brush and soap : Thymol 3J
grains, benzoic acid 45, tincture of eucalyptus 180, water
1J pints.
Odontine. Exhaust 3 ozs. of pulverized myrrh with
a mixture of 25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of water.
Then dissolve 1J ozs. of Castile soap shavings in a mix-
ture of 25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of water, and
color wine-red with alkannin. Then add lemon oil 30
drops, peppermint oil 30 drops, wintergreen oil 10
dropsy star-anise oil 30 drops, and finally 4 ozs. of
glycerin. After allowing the whole to stand in a cool
place for one or two weeks, filter, mix the filtrate with
10 drachms of acetic ether, and fill in bottles.
Sozodont. White Castile soap J oz., oil of peppermint
5 drops, oil of wintergreen 12 drops, glycerin J oz.,
water 1 oz., alcohol 2 ozs., cochineal tincture sufficient
to color.
Eau de Botot (improved). Cloves, star-anise, and soap
bark, each 2J drachms, cochineal 1 J drachms. Pulverize
and percolate with the following mixture : Alcohol 20
ozs., rose water 4 ozs. To the percolate add : Cream of
tartar 45 grains, oil of peppermint 1J drachms. Filter.
276 MANUFACTURE O'F PERFUMERY.
Quinine tooth-water. Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts,
peppermint oil 1 oz., clove oil | oz., Ceylon cinnamon
oil 2f drachms, Peruvian bark-tincture 8{ ozs., guaia-
cum-tincture 3J ozs., myrrh tincture 1.75 ozs., glycerine
of 28 B. 17J ozs. Proceed as above.
The Peruvian bark -tincture is prepared by macerating
8f ozs. of Peruvian bark in 1 quart of alcohol of best
quality.
Dr. Stahl's tooth-tincture. Alcohol of best quality 5
quarts, peppermint oil If ozs., clove oil 5J drachms,
French rose-geranium oil 8J drachms, vanilla-tincture
5J ozs., guaiacum tincture 3J ozs., benzoin tincture 8f
ozs., henna- tincture, as coloring matter, 8f ozs.
Bring all the ingredients into a glass bottle, shake
thoroughly and protect the mixture from sun-light.
The tincture, when mixed with water, gives an emulsion.
The henna-tincture is obtained by macerating 17 J
ozs. of henna-root in 4 quarts of alcohol.
E&prit de menthe. Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts,
peppermint oil 4J ozs.
Arnica tooth-tincture. Alcohol of best quality and
arnica-tincture each 1 quart, Peruvian bark-tincture 1
pint, glycerin of 28 B. 5J ozs., cochineal tincture, as col-
oring matter, If ozs.
Myrrh tooth-tincture. Alcohol of best quality 1
quart, myrrh tincture 2 quarts, guaiacum tincture
8f ozs.
A few remarks may here be made regarding the use
of tooth tinctures. The tinctures should not be used
undiluted, they being apt to make tender gums sore,
cause pain, and may even produce inflammation. It is
best to dilute the tinctures somewhat with water whereby
DENTIFRICES, MOUTH- WATERS, ETC. 277
they become milder and more agreeable to the gums.
An excellent article for rinsing out the mouth is obtained
by pouring a teaspoon ful of the tincture into a tumbler
of water.
TOOTH-PASTES AND TOOTH-POWDERS. Tooth-paste
or odontine, No. 1. Carbonate of magnesium 6 Ibs.,
sugar of milk 2 Ibs., precipitated carbonate of calcium
4 Ibs., alizarin, to color, 1} ozs., best soap-powder 7
ozs., powdered gum-arabic 5J ozs., sugar 17 J ozs. dis-
solved in distilled water 2J quarts, chemically pure
glycerin of 28 B. 17 J ozs., peppermint oil 8| ozs., clove
oil 8J drachms.
Pass the magnesia, sugar of milk, carbonate of cal-
cium, alizarin, soap-powder and gum-arabic through a
fine sieve and mix intimately ; dissolve the sugar in the
distilled water and add the glycerin to the solution.
Bring the sifted powders into a mortar or other con-
venient vessel, gradually add the fluid and thoroughly
mix with the hands. Then add the perfume, and con-
vert the whole into a solid paste with a wooden pestle.
Instead of mixing and working the mass in a mortar,
the operation is much more rapidly performed by passing
the mixture through the rolls of a soap mill, which must,
of course, be thoroughly cleansed for the purpose by
washing with water.
Tooth-paste or odontine, No. 2. Carbonate of magne-
sium and sugar of milk each 2 Ibs., precipitated carbo-
nate of calcium 4 Ibs., prepared chalk 10 Ibs., sugar 4
Ibs. dissolved in water 5 quarts, best soap-powder 2 Ibs.,
alizarin, as coloring matter, 7 ozs., peppermint oil 10J
ozs., clove oil 8J ozs.
This paste is prepared in the same manner as No. 1,
278 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
only the proportion of water has to be taken into con-
sideration. To prevent the mass from becoming too soft,
the water should be very gradually added.
Thymol tooth-paste. Carbonate of magnesium 4
Ibs., sugar of milk 2 Ibs., pulverized gum-arabic and
soap powder each 3J ozs., carmine nacarat, as coloring
matter, 2f drachms, and alizarin, as coloring matter, 6f
drachms, sugar 10J ozs., dissolved in distilled water 1}
quarts, peppermint oil 1J ozs., white thyme oil 2J ozs.,
crystallized thymol 1 J ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs. The
thyme oil, peppermint oil and arnica tincture are brought
into a bottle and the thymol is dissolved in the mixture.
By previously converting the thymol to a coarse powder
solution takes place quite rapidly. The further manipu-
lation is the same as given for tooth-paste No. 1.
Cherry tooth-paste. Boil briskly 1 oz. potassium
carbonate and 1 oz. of powdered cochineal in a pint of
water until reduced to 12 or 13 ozs. When cold, add 1
oz. cream of tartar, J oz. alum, 2 ozs. glycerin, and
water sufficient to make 16 ozs. of filtered solution.
Then add 4 ozs. of honey and set aside a few days to see
if fermentation occurs. Carefully mix the liquid with
2 Ibs. prepared chalk, 1 j ozs. orris powder and f ozs.
cassia powder.
Non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste. Fine powdered
pumice stone 2 ozs., powdered orris root 2 ozs., powdered
myrrh J oz., honey 4 ozs., sufficient liquid cochineal to
color, oil of cloves J drachm, essence of lemon 1J
drachms, rose oil 8 drops. Mix well.
Odontine paste. French chalk 30 drachms, soap 15,
sugar 15, gum-arabic 2, peppermint oil 2, glycerin 8,
water 8. Work into a paste.
DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. 279
Thymol tooth-powder. Sugar of milk and carbonate
of magnesium each 2 Ibs., precipitated carbonate of
calcium 1 lb., best soap-powder 7 ozs., alizarin, as color-
ing matter, and crystallized thymol, each 1 oz., glycerin
of 28 B. 5J ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs., white thyme
oil 1J ozs., peppermint oil 11 J drachms.
Thoroughly mix preferably in a capacious enamelled
vessel the powdered and colored ingredients, add the
thymol dissolved in the mixture of the volatile oils,
arnica tincture and glycerin, rub and uniformly mix the
whole with the hands, so that no specks of coloring mat-
ter and perfume are perceptible, and then again pass
through a fine sieve.
Tooth powder is best kept in well closed tin boxes ;
boxes of wood or paste-board are not suitable for the
purpose, the powder, when kept in them, losing in
quality.
The above explanations refer to all the following tooth
powders :
Poudre dentifrice. Precipitated carbonate of calcium
2 Ibs., carbonate of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1J
Ibs., fine soap-powder 5J ozs., alizarin, as coloring matter,
5J ozs., peppermint oil 2 ozs., clove oil 5J drachms,
Ceylon cinnamon oil 2| drachms, rose-geranium oil 5J
drachms, vanilla tincture 1 } ozs. Proceed as given for
thymol tooth-powder.
Violet tooth-powder. Orris-root powder 3 Ibs., car-
bonate of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1 J Ibs., best
soap-powder 5J ozs., Portugal oil and peppermint oil
each 1 oz., ratany tincture 3J ozs. Proceed as given
for thymol tooth-powder.
280 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powde-. Pulverized sanders
wood, Peruvian bark, and precipitated carbonate of
calcium each 2 Ibs., best soap-powder 7 ozs., bergamot
oil and Portugal oil each 11 drachms, clove oil and
cassia oil each 14 drachms, myrrh tincture If ozs.
Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder.
White tooth-powder. Carbonate of magnesium, pre-
cipitated carbonate of calcium, and prepared chalk each
1 lb., soap-powder 3J ozs., peppermint oil 1 oz., clove
oil 5J drachms. Proceed as given for thymol tooth-
powder.
Black tooth-powder. Finely pulverized linden char-
coal 2 Ibs., precipitated carbonate of calcium 1 lb., best
soap-powder 3J ozs., peppermint oil If ozs., clove oil
8J drachms, guaiacum tincture 3J ozs. Proceed as
given for thymol tooth-powder.
Poudre de corail. Carbonate of magnesium 1 lb.,
sugar of milk 7 ozs., prepared chalk 1 lb., best soap-
powder 7 ozs., alizarin 3J ozs., peppermint oil If ozs.,
clove oil 5J drachms, cassia oil 2f drachms. Proceed
as given for thymol tooth-powder.
Camphor tooth-powder. Prepared chalk and precipi-
tated carbonate of calcium each 1 lb., best soap-powder
2J ozs., peppermint oil 5J drachms, camphor 1 oz. dis-
solved in the necessary quantity of alcohol of best quality.
Thoroughly mix all the ingredients and pass the mix-
ture through a fine sieve. This tooth-powder should be
used only every 5 or 6 days ; when too frequently used
it affects the nerves.
Opiat liquide pour les dents. Genuine honey 1J Ibs.,
sugar syrup 2J ozs., best wheat flour 7 ozs., round-lake
2 ozs., peppermint oil and clove oil each 11 J drachms.
DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. 281
Convert the round-lake into a fine powder and pass
it through a fine sieve into a capacious porcelain dish.
Then intimately mix it with the wheat flour, gradually
add the honey and syrup, and after thoroughly working
the mass for about J hour, add the volatile oil. Now
work the whole thoroughly with the pestle, then cover
the dish, and after allowing it to stand quietly for about
36 hours, bring the mass into boxes of glass or tin pro-
vided with screw-tops.
Poudre d'Algerine. Cream of tartar and pulverized
red coral each 2 Ibs., pulverized burnt alum.l lb., pul-
verized sugar of milk 2 Ibs., cochineal as coloring
matter 3J ozs.
The pulverized ingredients are brought into an en-
amelled vessel having a capacity of 12 quarts and
thoroughly mixed, so that the cochineal is uniformly
distributed in the mass. Now have ready about 3 quarts
of nearly boiling water and a thoroughly cleansed soap-
stirrer or similar instrument.
When everything is prepared, quickly pour the hot
water upon the powder in the enamelled vessel and stir
rapidly and thoroughly during the effervescence which
immediately takes place. The effervescence gradually
ceases and the result will be a beautiful crimson colored
mass, the hot water having immediately and completely
dissolved the coloring matter of the cochineal. Now,
bring the mass into a shallow box lined with clean white
paper and place it to dry in an airy room, but do not
expose it to the air or sun-light. The next day the
mass in the box is thoroughly worked through, this
operation being repeated every day until the mass is dry.
It is then again powdered, whereby it acquires a rose
282 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
color, and is then sifted. The powder is perfumed with
peppermint oil 1 oz. and clove oil and cassia oil each 5J
ozs., sufficient glycerin to prevent dust, being at the same
time rubbed in. With the addition of the glycerin the
beautiful crimson color of the powder reappears. This
tooth-powder possesses excellent cleansing qualities and
can be recommended chiefly to persons having yellow
teeth, as well as to smokers whose teeth commence to get
black.
Dr. Hufeland's tooth soap. Best quality of tallow
melted without acid 14 Ibs., soda lye of 38 B. 6} Ibs.,
potash lye of 20 B. 1 Ib. Further, yellow ochre 1 lb.,
umber 4J ozs., and precipitated carbonate of calcium 3
Ibs., stirred together with hot water 2 quarts. Pepper-
mint oil 5J ozs., clove oil 14 drachms.
The kettle with the tallow strained through a cloth
is brought upon the water-bath and the tallow heated to
167 F. The lye heated to about 100 F. is then slowly
added to the tallow in the kettle, and, after stirring for
about J hour, the mass is allowed to rest quietly, the
kettle being lightly covered and only a little steam ad-
mitted or fire kept under the kettle, so that saponifica-
tion does not take place too rapidly.
Saponification will be slowly effected from the sides of
the kettle in about one hour, the mass in the kettle rising
somewhat. This rising indicates that the process of
saponification is going on. The mass is now again
stirred, which must be done carefully and not hastily, as
otherwise the soap readily becomes spumous. When
the soap again lies quietly in the kettle, it will have the
appearance of a white prime grain-soap. Now add the
coloring substances and the precipitated carbonate of
DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. 283
calcium and thoroughly stir, so that the mass acquires a
uniform brown color. Then remove the kettle from the
water-bath, add the perfumes with constant stirring,
bring the finished tooth soap into the frame, lightly cover
the latter with the wooden lid and let stand over night.
The next day the tooth soap may be cut up into suitable
pieces, which are allowed to dry for about 12 hours and
then packed in tinfoil, etc.
Tooth-soap. Castile soap 1 lb., prepared chalk 1
oz., thymol 20 grains, oil of wintergreen 30 drops.
Shave the soap into ribbons, beat it into a paste with
a little water, and add first the prepared chalk and lastly
the thymol and wintergreen oil dissolved in a little water.
Saponaceous tooth-wash. White Castile soap 3 ozs.,
oil of orange peel 10 drops, oil of cinnamon 5 drops,
water 4 ozs., alcohol 12 ozs.
Shave the soap into ribbons ; melt with the water in
a water-bath, adding the alcohol while still warm.
Continue the heat if necessary, until solution is effected.
When cold, dissolve the oils in the liquid.
284 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER XII.
HATR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS ; HAIR
DYES AND DEPILATORIES.
To properly preserve the hair it requires to be occa-
sionally oiled, and the scalp to be frequently cleansed.
Pomades and oils serve for the former purpose, and hair
tonics for the latter. For the preparation of pomades,
fats, such as lard, beef-tallow, and beef-marrow, ate
principally used, though cocoa butter, cocoanut oil,
castor oil, almond oil, spermaceti, and wax, and, more
recently, vaseline are also employed. For the prepara-
tion of hair oils, fat oils, especially olive oil and almond
oil are used, but also poppy oil, peanut oil, sesame oil,
etc. The fats and oils used should not be rancid, for, on
the one hand, the bad odor arising from rancidity is
troublesome in perfuming, and, on the other, what is of
still greater importance, rancid fat injuriously affects the
scalp and the growth of the hair. Of the oils above
mentioned, which are sometimes used, poppy oil is a
drying oil, and, therefore, not suitable for the purpose.
Some fats enjoy a special reputation as hair pomades,
the property of strengthening the scalp and promoting
the growth of the hair being ascribed to them. This is
especially the case as regards beef marrow and horse
fat,* whilst in olden times the bone marrow of the deer
* Genuine horse fat is obtained from the upper portion of the
neck of the horse.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 285
(cerval medullce) and bear's grease were believed to pos-
sess this property. Cleopatra is said to have used the
latter, and many ladies are at the present time under
the impression that they apply it to their hair when they
use Pommade d la graisse d'ours. Thoroughly purified
lard renders no doubt the same service as the above-
mentioned fats.
POMADES. Pomades are prepared by two different
methods ; the desired odor is imparted to the fat by the
extraction of the flowers of various plants, or the fat in
a semi-congealed state is perfumed with different vola-
tile oils.
The fats used for pomades should, as above indicated,
be as fresh and pure as possible, so that they will keep
for a long time. Fats intended for fine pomades, for
which lard and beef-tallow are chiefly used, are generally
first subjected to purification by, for some time, treating
them with cold water, constantly renewed, and thor-
oughly washing, so that all adhering particles of dirt
and mucus are removed, and the pomades prepared from
them are better protected against rancidity. For the
removal of the water adhering from washing, the fats
are remelted. Still greater durability is imparted to
the fat by adding in remelting a small quantity of sali-
cylic acid (2f drachms of the acid to 2 Ibs. of fat), or of
gum benzoin. A small addition of ethyl nitrite also
renders the fats more durable.
The purification of the fat, which generally consists
of 2 to 3 parts lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is frequently
effected as follows : Boil for about one hour 125 Ibs. of
fat with about 30 gallons of water containing 1 Ib. each
of common salt and alum in solution, constantly remov-
286 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
ing the scum formed. After standing for several hours,
the fat thus purified is carefully taken off from the sedi-
ment and water ; it is then, together with 4 to 6 Ibs. of
pulverized benzoin, for some time heated at 167 F., and
finally strained into stone jars, which, after the fat is
cold, are closed with a piece of bladder or waxed paper
and kept for use. I^at thus prepared keeps for years.
For coloring the pomades are used: 1. For red:
Alkannin, cinnabar, carmine (triturated with a small
quantity of sal ammoniac and added to the fat) and
safranin (1 part of it dissolved in 20 parts alcohol and
80 parts water and added to the melted fat). 2. For
yellow : Annotto, turmeric, cadmium sulphide. 3. For
brown : Cocoa powder and ochre. 4. For green : Chlo-
rophyl. Besides the above-mentioned coloring substances,
a very intense coloring matter for pomades is brought
into commerce under the name " Lederin" by Saltzer &
Voigt, of Oker, Germany. It is manufactured in lemon
color, orange, cinnabar, violet, and brown shades, and 10
to 12 drachms of it, triturated in a porcelain dish with
about 1 Ib. of the warm fat, will impart a truly beautiful
color to 100 Ibs. of fat or oil.
Fine French Pomades (Flower Pomades). In France,
especially in the southern part, where the cultivation of
the various flowers, such as roses, violets, mignonette,
heliotrope, etc., is carried on on an extensive scale, the
fine pomades are prepared by the method previously
mentioned (see p. 58 ei seq.).
The maceration or extraction of the flowers is effected
as follows : The fat, generally consisting of 3 parts lard
and 1 part beef-tallow, is melted in an enamelled vessel
over the steam or water-bath. The flowers in a clean
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 287
linen bag are suspended in the fat, and after covering
the vessel the fat is kept, according to the strength of
the perfume of the respective variety of flower, for a day
or two more at a temperature of from 133 to 145 F.
The extracted and exhausted flowers are then taken out,
slightly pressed out, and thrown away. The same ope-
ration with always the same quantities of fresh flowers
is then repeated ten to twelve times with the same fat,
until it is sufficiently perfumed. The pomade thus
obtained, to which some white vaseline is frequently
added, is then stirred until cold.
Receipts for some flower pomades are here given :
Pommade a la rose. Extract, in the manner above
given, with 6 Ibs. of lard and 2 Ibs. of beef-tallow, both
thoroughly purified, 8 Ibs. of fresh rose leaves. Treat
the fat ten to twelve times in the same manner with an
equal quantity of fresh rose leaves.
Pommade a V acacia. Extract 6 Ibs. of fresh acacia
flowers with 20 Ibs. of fat, and repeat the operation ten
times with a like quantity of fresh flowers.
Pommade a la fleur d? orange. Extract 8 Ibs. of fresh
orange flowers with 8 Ibs. of fat, and repeat the opera-
tion eight times with a like quantity of fresh flowers.
Pommade a V heliotrope. Extract 8 Ibs. of fresh helio-
trope flowers with 8 Ibs. of fat, and repeat the operation
eight to ten times with an equal quantity of fresh flowers.
All simple French pomades, for which flowers fur-
nish the perfume, are prepared in a similar manner.
For pomades are chiefly used the flowers of the gera-
nium, jasmine, mignonette, hyacinth, tuberose, narcissus,
lily, etc., the pomades as a rule receiving the name of the
perfume imparted to them.
288 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
POMADES ACCORDING TO THE GERMAN METHOD.
Most of the pomades consumed in Germany are
prepared from fresh, purified lard and beef-tallow,
though sometimes additions of wax, spermaceti, stearin,
castor-oil, cocoanut oil, etc., are made, or the pomade is
entirely composed of the latter fats. For inferior
qualities of pomades, borax is much used, since it not
only possesses the property of combining a quantity of
water with the fat, but also makes the pomade more
durable. Soap dissolved in hot water is also often
added to the fat, whereby not oi^ly considerable water
is fixed in the pomade, but the latter also becomes very
white and pliant. In regard to pomades containing
borax, it may be mentioned that safranin has proved a
durable substance for coloring the pomades red, while
alkannin suffers alterations.
The fabrication of pomades is very simple. The fat,
after being melted, and somewhat cooled off, is generally
vigorously worked or beaten with a wooden pestle or
spatula, until it acquires a frothy, cream-like appearance.
By this treatment the fat also gains in volume, small air
bubbles being inclosed in it. On the other hand, the fat
is stirred until cold, then perfumed and poured into pots.
The following mixtures of fat may serve as suitable
foundations for white pomades :
I. Lard 6 Ibs., beef-tallow 2 Ibs.
II. Lard 6 Ibs., beef-tallow 3 Ibs.
III. Lard 7J Ibs., spermaceti 1J Ibs.
IV. Castor oil 6 Ibs., vaseline 1 J Ibs., wax 1 Ib.
V. Lard 8 Ibs., cocoanut oil 2 Ibs.
VI. Castor oil 6 Ibs., spermaceti 1 Ib.
VII. Lard 6 Ibs., cocoanut oil 3 Ibs.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 289
VIII. Lard 8 Ibs., wax 1 lb., cocoa butter 1 Ib.
IX. Pomade fat 12 Ibs., soap 4 ozs., dissolved in
hot water, borax J drachm. This mass will stand about
J water.
X. In summer : Fat 6 Ibs., stearin 7 ozs.
In winter : Fat 6 Ibs., stearin 4J ozs.
To either mass given under X, add and combine
thoroughly with it 14 drachms of borax dissolved in 1
quart of water.
The pomades, while still warm, are colored and finally
perfumed. For perfuming, different volatile oils and per-
fume substances of suitable composition are used, 1 to 1J
ozs. of perfume being generally sufficient for 2 Ibs. of fat.
Receipts for the best known and most popular pomades
are as follows :
Apple pomade. Digest for some time in the water
bath 2 Ibs. of fresh apple parings with 6 Ibs. of lard
and 2 Ibs. of beef-tallow, press, color yellow, stir until
cold, and perfume with 1 oz. amyl valerate, commonly
called "apple oil."
Bear's grease pomade. Perfume purified bear's grease
8 Ibs., or benzoated lard 6 Ibs. and beef-tallow 2 Ibs.,
with rose-geranium oil 2f ozs. and vanilla tincture 2 ozs.
Quinine pomade No. 1. Fresh lard 6 Ibs., fresh beef-
tallow 2J Ibs., quinotannic acid 13 ozs., tincture of can-
tharides and distilled water each 8 ozs., Peru balsam
4 ozs., rose-geranium oil 8 drachms.
Quinine pomade No. 2. Vaseline 4 Ibs., paraffin 2
Ibs., fat jasmine oil 1 lb., Peruvian bark extract | lb.,
tannin 5J- ozs., Peru balsam 3J ozs., rose-geranium oil
11 drachms.
Melt together the vaseline and paraffin, add the Peru-
19
290 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
vian bark extract previously rubbed up with as little
water as possible, and stir in the tannin dissolved in the
volatile oils.
Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 1. Benzoated lard
6 Ibs., beef-tallow 2 Ibs., colored with prepared cocoa
powder about 14 ozs., and perfumed with Peruvian
balsam 2j ozs., bergamot oil, citronella oil, and eau de
Cologne each 5J drachms, and oils of cloves, lavender,
and cinnamon each 40 drops.
Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 2. Lard 6 Ibs., beef-
tallow 2J Ibs., cocoa powder 15f ozs., Peru balsam 2J-
ozs., cassia oil If ozs., clove oil 2| drachms, oil of bitter
almonds 10 drops.
Benzoin pomade. Digest for several hours in a water
bath at 167 F. 6 Ibs. of lard, 2 Ibs. of beef-tallow, and
1 J Ibs. of pulverized benzoin, and strain off the fat.
Densdorf pomade. Castor oil 6 Ibs., vaseline 1J Ibs.,
yellow wax 1 lb., bergamot oil 2J ozs., lemon oil 1 J ozs.,
geranium oil 4J drachms.
Ice pomade No. 1. Best olive oil 6 Ibs., white vaseline
and spermaceti each 1J Ibs., bergamot oil 3 ozs., bitter
almond oil 11 drachms, rose-geranium oil 8^ drachms,
cinnamon oil 5J drachms.
Ice pomade No. 2. Fat almond oil 6 Ibs., spermaceti
1J Ibs., bergamot oil If ozs., citronella oil 14 drachms,
palma rose oil 2} drachms.
Family pomade (red). Fresh lard 6 Ibs., beef-tallow
3 Ibs., bergamot oil 1 J ozs., oils of lemon, lavender, and
cinnamon each 14 drachms. Color with alkannin.
Family pomade (white). Fresh lard 6 Ibs., beef-tallow
3 Ibs., lemon oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1J ozs., berga-
mot oil 1 oz.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 291
Family pomade (rose color). Fresh lard 6 Ibs., beef-
tallow 3 Ibs., palma-rose oil, citronella oil, and lavender
oil each 1J ozs. Color with alkannin.
Family pomade (yellow}. Fresh lard 6 Ibs., beef-tallow
3 Ibs., bergamot oil If ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms, clove
oil 8J drachms, thyme oil 5J drachms. Color with
lederin or annotto.
Family pomade (brown). Fresh lard 6 Ibs., beef-tallow
3 Ibs., cassia. oil If ozs., caraway oil 1 oz., sweet orange
oil and clove oil each 11 J- drachms. Color brown with
cocoa powder, lederin, or umber.
Strawberry pomade. Fresh ripe strawberries 1J Ibs.,
fresh lard, 6 Ibs., fresh beef-tallow 2 Ibs., rose oil 5
drops.
Put the strawberries in a clean linen bag, and digest
them for some time with the fat in the water-bath.
Then moderately press the strawberries, color with
alkannin, and finally perfume.
Fine hair pomade. Fresh lard 8 Ibs., cocoanut oil
and wax each 1 lb., bergamot oil 3 ozs., lemon oil 1J
ozs., geranium oil 5J drachms, musk tincture 1 drachm.*
Pomade for promoting the growth of the hair. Lard
6 Ibs., beef-tallow 2 Ibs., tincture of cantharides 10J ozs.,
lemon oil 2J ozs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cinnamon oil
1J drachms.
Heliotrope pomade, finest quality. Lard treated with
benzoin 6 Ibs., beef tallow treated with benzoin 2 Ibs.,
heliotropin 3f drachms, dissolved in a small quantity of
the fat heated to about 111 F. ; neroli oil 35 drops.
* A pomade containing musk cannot be used by everyone, since
in nervous persons it may readily cause headache.
292 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Heliotrope pomade. Fresh lard 6 Ibs., fresh beef
tallow 2 Ibs., Peru balsam 2J ozs., cassia oil 1J ozs.,
clove oil 8J drachms, artificial bitter-almond oil 1J
drachms.
Jasmine pomade. Benzoated lard 6 Ibs., benzoated
beef tallow 2 Ibs., fat jasmine oil 2f Ibs., rose oil 25
drops.
Emperor pomade. Melt together 7| Ibs. of fresh
olive oil, 2 Ibs. of castor oil, and 2| Ibs. of spermaceti.
Perfume with fat jasmine oil 7 ozs., Turkish rose oil and
bergamot oil each 2J drachms, neroli oil 50 drops, gera-
nium oil 20 drops, orris-root oil 10 drops, heliotropin
J drachm, and cumarin --$ drachm.
Dissolve the heliotropin and cumarin in a portion of
the fat heated to 111 F., add the solution, together with
the other perfume-materials, to the fat before it con-
geals, then pour the pomade into jars and allow it to
cool slowly.
Macassar pomade. Castor oil 6 Ibs., vaseline 1J
Ibs., wax 1 lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cassia oil and cin-
namon oil each 1 oz., rose-geranium oil 2f drachms.
Portugal pomade. Fresh lard 4 Ibs., white vaseline
1 lb., wax 3J ozs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1 J
ozs., caraway oil 2f drachms.
Herb pomade. Melt together fresh lard 8 Ibs., Japa-
nese wax and bay berry oil each. 3 J ozs., improve the
color with chlorophyl, and perfume with lemon oil 14
drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, clove oil 5| drachms,
geranium oil 3J drachms, and a few drops of curly mint
oil.
Lanolin pomade. Benzoated fat 4 Ibs., benzoin-
ized olive oil and lanolin each 2 Ibs., bergamot oil 3J
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 293
ozs., cinnamon oil 7J drachms, clove oil 5J drachms,
lavender oil 3f drachms, nerolin 1 drachm dissolved in
a portion of the fat heated to 111 F. Color red with
alkannin.
Oriental pomade. Benzoated lard 6 Ibs., benzoated
beef-tallow 2 Ibs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., clove oil 1J ozs.,
neroli oil 5J drachms, musk tincture J drachm. Color
red with lederin.
Paraffin ice pomade. Castor oil or olive oil 6 Ibs.,
paraffin 1 lb., bergamot oil 3J ozs., palma rose oil 11 J
drachms.
Neroli pomade. Benzoated lard ft Ibs., benzoated
beef-tallow 2 Ibs., fat jasmine oil and fat rose oil each
If ozs., oil of bitter almonds 2 drops, nerolin 1J
drachms dissolved in a small portion of the fat heated
to 111 F. Color pale yellow.
Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white). Lard 5 Ibs., beef-
tallow or cocoanut oil 2 Ibs., perfumed with about 3 J ozs.
of fruit ether.
Mignonette pomade. Benzoated lard 4 Ibs., ben-
zoated beef-tallow and fat mignonette oil each 2 Ibs.,
tolu-balsam tincture 4} ozs. Color pale green with
chlorophyl.
Castor oil pomade No. 1. Melt together 4 Ibs. of castor
oil and 11 J ozs. of spermaceti and perfume with berga-
mot oil 2 ozs., and geranium oil 6J drachms.
Castor oil pomade No. 2. Castor oil and fine olive oil
each 2 Ibs., yellow wax 7 ozs., bergamot oil and sweet
orange oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8J drachms,
neroli oil 2J drachms.
Princess pomade. Fresh lard 8 Ibs., cocoa butter and
wax each 1 lb., bergamot oil 3| ozs., lemon oil and
294 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
lavender oil each 14 drachms, neroli oil 6f drachms.
Color rose color with alkannin.
Fine pomade. Benzoated lard 6 Ibs., benzoated beef-
tallow 2 Ibs., lemon oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1J ozs.,
bergamot oil 1 oz. Color yellow with annotto.
Beef-marrow pomade. Melt together 4 Ibs. of lard
and 1 Ib. of beef-marrow, or, 4 Ibs of lard, 14 ozs. of
spermaceti, and If ozs. of yellow wax, color yellow and
perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms, bergamot oil 6f
drachms, and a few drops of clove oil.
Rogers' s pomade for producing a beard. Lard 7J Ibs.,
yellow wax | Ib., fine cantharides powder 10 J ozs., berga-
mot oil 1J ozs., oils of lemon, cinnamon and lavender
each 11 drachms.
Rose pomade. Fresh lard 6 Ibs., fresh beef-tallow 2
Ibs., palma rosa oil 2f ozs., citronella oil 11 drachms,
alkannin for coloring 1 to 1J ozs.
Fine rose pomade. Fresh lard 2J Ibs., spermaceti
and fat almond oil, each 3J ozs., rose geranium oil 1 J
ozs., bitter almond oil 1J ozs.
Finest rose pomade. Fat rose oil 2f Ibs., spermaceti
7 ozs., white wax 3J ozs., rose-geranium oil 1J ozs.,
rose oil and bergamot oil, each J drachm. Color red
with alkannin.
Salicylic pomade. Fresh lard 7 Ibs., white wax 1 Ib.,
fat jasmine oil If Ibs. Peru balsam 5J ozs., salicylic
acid 2 ozs., dissolved in alcohol 4 ozs.
Victoria pomade. Melt together 3 J Ibs. of fat almond
oil and 10J ozs. of white wax, and perfume the mixture,
when quite cooled off, with fat jasmine oil J Ib., rose
oil and geranium oil each 1 drachm. Color rose color
with alkannin.
Tonka pomade. Lard 7J Ibs., spermaceti J Ib., cuma-
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 295
rin 4J drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the warm
fat.
Fine vanilla pomade. Benzoated lard 6 Ibs., beef-
tallow 2 Ibs., vanilla 2f drachms, dissolved in a small
portion of the warm fat.
Vanilla pomade. Lard and vaseline each 2 Ibs., wax
3J ozs., Peruvian balsam 1J ozs., bitter-almond oil J
drachm, cinnamon oil 20 drops.
Violet pomade. Lard 4 Ibs., vaseline 2 Ibs., wax 5J
ozs., spermaceti If ozs., fat orris-root oil 2 Ibs., berga-
mot oil 3f drachms, clove oil 2J drachms, cinnamon oil
I drachm, rose oil J drachm.
Walnut pomade. Work in a mortar to a uniform paste
J Ib. of fresh green walnut-shells and 2 ozs. of alum.
Digest the paste with 2f Ibs. of benzoinized lard and
tallow in the water-bath until the fat appears clear.
Then strain oif the fat, stir until cold, and perfume
with 1J drachms of neroli oil and \ drachm of rose oil.
VASELINE POMADES. Vaseline pomades consisting
neither of an animal nor of a vegetable fat, but almost
entirely of a mineral fat, form a special division of
pomades. On account of its good properties and cheap-
ness, vaseline, which is obtained from petroleum resi-
dues, etc., has for several years past been much used in
the preparation of pomades. The pomades prepared
from vaseline are not only very suitable for oiling the
hair, as they never become rancid, but may also ad-
vantageously be used as a remedy for chapped skin,
inflammation, cuts, burns, etc. For pomades odorless
vaseline has to be used, 1 Ib. of it requiring about 5J to
8J drachms of perfume. Lederin, which has been pre-
viously mentioned, is best suited for coloring the pomades.
296 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
When used for pomades vaseline, though by itself suffi-
cient for the purpose, frequently receives an addition of
paraffin, wax (mostly ceresin), and lard. To vaseline
pomades intended for export to warm climates, an addi-
tion of J to J- ceresin is required.
The following mixtures give good foundations for
vaseline pomade :
I. Yellow or white vaseline 2 parts, paraffin 1.
II. Vaseline 5 parts, paraffin or ceresin 1.
III. Vaseline 3 parts, ceresin 1.
IV. Vaseline and lard each 10 parts, ceresin 1.
The pomades are prepared by first melting the paraffin
or ceresin and then slowly stirring in the vaseline. When
the fat commences to thicken, the perfume is added and
the pomade poured into jars or tin boxes.
A few good receipts for vaseline pomades are here
given.
Bouquet vaseline pomade. White vaseline and fresh
lard each 2 Ibs., ceresin 3J ozs., bergamot oil \\ ozs.,
lavender oil 6f drachms, cinnamon oil 5J drachms,
neroli oil 3f drachms, geranium oil 2f drachms.
Family vaseline pomade. Pale yellow vaseline 10 Ibs.,
oils of bergamot and lemons each 1 oz., citronella oil
12J drachms, cassia oil 8J drachms, lavender oil 4J
drachms, clove oil 3f drachms ; or, bergamot oil 2 ozs.,
palma-rose oil 1} ozs., lavender oil 5J drachms.
Lily of the valley vaseline pomade. White vaseline and
fresh lard each 2 Ibs., ceresin 3J ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz.,
ylang-ylang oil 2f drachms, licari oil J drachm.
Neroli vaseline pomade. Vaseline 10 Ibs., ceresin 2
Ibs., geranium oil 1 oz., nerolin 3} drachms, dissolved
in a small portion of the warm fat.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 297
Mignonette vaseline pomade. White vaseline 2 Ibs.,
paraffin 1 lb., bergamot oil 9 drachms, neroli oil 5|
drachms, artificial bitter almond oil 15 drops.
Portugal vaseline pomade. Pale yellow vaseline 10
Ibs., ceresin 3J ozs., Portugal oil 2f ozs., cassia oil 1
oz., lavender oil 5J drachms.
Rose vaseline pomade, No. 1. Vaseline 6 Ibs., ceresin
3J ozs., rose-geranium oil 1J ozs., nerolin j drachm.
Colored with lederin.
Rose vaseline pomade. No. 2. Vaseline and lard each
2 Ibs., ceresin 7 ozs., geranium oil 1J ozs., bergamot oil
5| drachms, musk tincture J drachm. Color red with
alkannin.
Fine vaseline pomade (yellow). Yellow vaseline and
castor oil each 2 Ibs., yellow wax 7 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz.,
bergamot oil 6f drachms, nerolin J drachm.
Vaseline pomade (red). White vaseline 4 Ibs.,
paraffin or ceresin 14 ozs., palma-rose oil, citronella oil
and lavender oil each 11 J drachms. Color red with
lederin or alkannin.
Vaseline pomade (white). White vaseline 4 Ibs.,
paraffin 14 ozs., bergamot oil 1J ozs., cassia oil 2f
drachms, thyme oil 1 J drachms.
Virginia vaseline pomade. Digest for some time in
the water-bath 2 Ibs. of white vaseline, 2J ozs. each of
yellow wax and pulverized benzoin, and 11 drachms of
Peru balsam. Then filter and perfume with bergamot
oil 14 drachms, citronella oil 1J drachms.
This pomade serves not only for preserving the scalp,
but is also a good remedy for tetter, cutaneous erup-
tions, etc.
Victoria vaseline pomade. White vaseline 5 Ibs.,
OTf
298 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
paraffin 1 lb., bergamot oil 1J ozs., rose-geranium oil 1
oz., lavender 8J drachms. Color red with alkannin or
lederin.
Extra fine vaseline pomade. White vaseline 4 Ibs.,
ceresin 10 J ozs., bergamot oil 1J- ozs., lemon oil 9
drachms, palma-rosa oil 2J drachms.
Stick pomades. Besides the soft, unctuous pomades
thus far treated of, we have a solid product the so-
called stick-pomades. These pomades, which serve for
the better fastening of the hair, are brought into com-
merce either as wax pomades or resin pomades, the
former being prepared from a mixture of lard, tallow,
and wax, and the latter from tallow, wax, and resin, to
which some Venetian turpentine may be added.
The following mixtures give good foundations for
stick pomades :
I. French flower pomade 4 parts, white wax 1}.
II. Fresh beef tallow 3 parts, fresh lard 1, wax 1J.
III. Best beef tallow 5 parts, yellow wax 1.
IV. Tallow 10 parts, wax 2|, resin 1, Venetian tur-
pentine J.
V. Tallow 8J parts, resin f , ceresin f .
VI. Tallow 4 parts, pale resin 1, yellow wax J.
VII. Tallow 10 parts, wax 2, pale resin 1.
VIII. Olive oil 2 parts, pure stearin 1, yellow wax 1.
IX. Tallow 9 J parts, ceresin J.
X. Best beef-tallow 10 parts, yellow wax 1 J.
The usual process of manufacturing stick-pomade is
as follows : Melt the fat, wax and resin in the water-
bath, then strain the mixture and cool it off by constant
stirring until a thin film is formed upon the surface.
Then perfume and pour into tin moulds of oval, round
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 299
or square form and of various sizes. A dozen of such
tin moulds of the same size are generally soldered
together and are provided below either with a hinged
piece, or they are open. In the latter case they are
placed upon a tin support with a high edge which serves
for the reception for the fat escaping from any of the
moulds. The cold pomades are pushed out by means of
sticks of wood fitting exactly into the moulds. They
are then wrapped in tin-foil, labelled and brought into
commerce.
Stick-pomades are either white, rose color, yellow,
brown or black ; alkannin, lederin, umber, Frank-
fort black, etc., being used as coloring substances.
In the following some receipts for wax and resin
pomades are given :
Rose-wax pomade. Best tallow 6 Ibs., best lard 2
Ibs., white-wax 3 Ibs., colored with alkaunin. Perfume :
Lemon oil 1 oz., lavender oil 14 drachms, geranium oil
11 drachms, clove oil 6} drachms ; or, bergamot oil 1
oz., oils of geranium, cassia and Portugal, each 10
drachms, clove oil 3J drachms.
Black-wax pomade. Best tallow 10 Ibs., yellow wax
1J Ibs., colored with Frankfort black. Perfume: Ber-
gamot oil 3J ozs., cassia oil 13J drachms; or, bergamot
oil 3J ozs., citronella oil 6| drachms.
Blonde wax pomade. Best tallow 6 Ibs., best lard 2
Ibs., white or yellow wax 3 Ibs. Perfume: Clove oil
1J ozs., lemon oil, bergamot oil and Peru balsam each
14 drachms; or, bergamot oil 2f ozs., cassia oil 5^
drachms, thyme oil 2f drachms.
Brown wax pomade. Best tallow 10 Ibs., yellow wax
2 Ibs., colored with umber. Perfume: Citronella oil
300 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
2 ozs., clove oil 12 J drachms, bergamot oil 8J drachms,
anise-seed oil 6 j- drachms ; or, bergamot oil 2J ozs., cas-
sia oil 1 J ozs., clove oil 5J drachms.
Cheap-wax pomade (color as desired). Best tallow 9 J
Ibs., ceresin j- Ib. Perfume : Lavender oil If ozs., cas-
sia oil 1 oz., palma-rose oil ll drachms; or, bergamot
oil 1 J ozs., palma-rosa oil 1 oz., lavender oil J oz.
Resin pomade No. 1. Best tallow 10 Ibs., yellow wax
2 Ibs., pale resin 1 Ib. Perfume: Bergamot oil If ozs.,
cassia oil 14 drachms, lavender oil 11 drachms, clove oil
8J drachms, thyme oil 5J drachms.
Resin pomade No. 2. Best tallow 10 Ibs., yellow
wax 2J Ibs., pale resin 1 Ib., Venetian turpentine
4 ozs. Perfume : Cassia oil 2f ozs., lavender oil 1 oz.,
lemon-grass oil 11 drachms, clove oil and thyme oil each
5J drachms.
Cheap resin pomade. Best tallow 8J Ibs.. pale resin
and pale ceresin each 13 ozs. Perfume: Bergamot oil
3J ozs., cassia oil 9J drachms, thyme oil 5 drachms; or,
Portugal oil 2f ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5J
drachms.
HAIR OILS. Like pomades, hair oils are perfumed
either with volatile oils or by treatment with larger
quantities of fresh flowers. The oils obtained in the
latter manner are known as Huiles antiques, and are
the finest and most expensive. Vaseline oil, which is
cheap and does not become rancid, is also at present
much used as hair oil. To make the fat oils used as
hair oils more durable and to protect them from becom-
ing rancid, they are also treated with benzoin. For
this purpose digest for three hours, with frequent stir-
ring, in the water-bath 100 Ibs. of the oil with 1 Ib. of
HA IK POMADES, HAIE OILS AND TONICS. 301
pulverized benzoin. With the exception of alkannin
for red-colored oil and chlorophyl for herb oils, no
coloring substances are used for hair oils. About 5J
to 8J drachms of perfume are required for 1 Ib. of oil.
The Huiles antiques are obtained as follows :
Huile antique a la rose. Extract in the cold 1 Ib. of
fresh rose leaves with 1 Ib. of best olive oil, and with
the oil pressed off, extract, six times in succession, equal
quantities of fresh leaves, leaving the rose-leaves each
time in contact with the oil for 10 to J 2 hours. The
oil, when sufficiently perfumed, is filtered.
Huile antique au jasmin. Extract in the manner above
given 1 Ib. of fresh jasmin flowers with 1 Ib. of olive oil.
In the same manner the perfume of the different
flowers can be withdrawn and utilized.
A number of receipts for the most popular hair oils
are here given.
Alpine herb oil. Color slightly with chlorophyl 10
Ibs. of best quality of olive oil and perfume with pep-
permint oil 2 ozs., lavender oil 1 oz., caraway oil 6J
drachms.
Flower hair oil. Color slightly with alkannin 10 Ibs.
of benzoated olive oil of best quality, and perfume with
geranium oil 2J ozs., bergamot oil and lavender oil each
9 drachms, petit-grain oil 4| drachms, and angelica oil
5 drops.
Peruvian bark hair oil. Extract for some time 1 Ib.
of pulverized Peruvian bark with 10 Ibs. of strongly
heated benzoinized olive oil. Then color the oil red
with alkannin, and when cold, perfume with bergamot
oil If ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, rose-geranium oil 2J
drachms, neroli oil J drachm, and cinnamon oil 5 drops ;
302 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
or, with bergamot oil 2J ozs., lemon oil 1 J oz., geranium
oil 3 1 drachms.
Peru hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., Peru
balsam 3J ozs., cassia oil 11 drachms.
Bwrdock root hair oil No. 1. Digest at a moderate
heat 8 Ibs. of olive oil or sesame oil with 2 Ibs. of fresh
burdock roots ; then pour off the oil from the roots, add
7 ozs. of castor oil, color with, alkannin, and perfume
with bergamot oil 2 ozs. and palma-rose oil 1 oz.
Burdock root hair oil No. 2. Color 10 Ibs. of ben-
zoated olive oil pale green with chlorophyl, and per-
fume with bergamot oil 2 ozs., geranium oil 1J ozs.,
and lavender oil 11 drachms.
Macassar hair oil No. 1. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs.,
geranium oil and lemon oil each 1J ozs., cassia oil 14
drachms. Color red with alkannin.
Macassar oil No. 2. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs.,
colored with alkannin, and perfumed with bergamot oil
1} ozs., lemon oil 1 J ozs., cinnamon oil 1 drachm, musk
essence 1 drachm.
Neroli hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., nerolin
5J drachms dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil,
rose oil 10 drops.
Mignonette hair oil No. 1. Benzoated olive oil 10
Ibs., cassia oil 1J ozs., geranium oil and tolu -balsam
tincture each 11 drachms, nerolin 1 drachm, dissolved
in a small quantity of warm oil.
Mignonette hair oil No. 2. Benzoated olive oil 4
Ibs., fat mignonette oil 3 Ibs., tolu-balsam tincture
3J ozs.
Fine hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., lemon
oil 1J ozs., bergamot oil 15| drachms, lavender oil 3f
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 303
drachms, neroli oil 2f drachms, rosemary oil 1J
drachms, petit-grain oil 1 drachm.
Cheap hair oil (red or yellow). Sesame oil or purified
colza oil lOlbs., bergamot oil 2J ozs., citronella oil 1J
ozs., mirbane oil 10 drachms ; or, Portugal oil 2f ozs.,
cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5J drachms.
Portugal hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., Por-
tugal oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1J ozs., caraway oil 3J
drachms.
Jasmine hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., fat
jasmine oil 1J Ibs., bergamot oil If ozs., clove oil 11
drachms, rose-geranium oil 4J drachms, neroli n 1
drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil,
thyme oil J drachm.
Vaseline hair oil No. 1. White vaseline oil 8 Ibs.,
white olive oil 2 Ibs., colored red with alkannin, berga-
mot oil 1J ozs., lavender oil and lemon oil each 11
drachms, neroli oil 5J drachms.
Vaseline hair oil No. 2. Yellow vaseline oil 8 Ibs.,
olive oil 2 Ibs., cassia oil 1 J ozs., lemon-grass oil 1 oz.,
clove oil J oz.
Vanilla hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., vanil-
lin, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, and Peru
balsam, each 5J drachms, bergamot oil 1 drachm, musk
tincture 10 drops.
Ylang-ylang hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 5 Ibs.,
ylang-ylang oil 2 drachms, rose oil 1 drachm, neroli oil
10 drops.
Philocome hair oil. Melt together benzoated olive
011 and yellow wax each 2 Ibs., and when about half
cold, add fat orris-root oil and fat jasmine oil, each 1 J
Ibs., rose-geranium oil 1 drachm, and stir until cold.
304 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Sultana hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs.,
colored red with alkannin, bergamot oil 1 J ozs., lavender
oil 8 drachms, cinnamon oil 7 drachms, neroli oil 5J
drachms, geranium oil 3J drachms, musk tincture 1
drachm.
Rose hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., colored
pale red with alkannin, geranium oil 2 ozs., bergamot
oil 1 oz., cassia oil 14 drachms.
Tonka hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., cumarin
10 drachms, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil.
Violet hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., fat
orris-root oil 3 Ibs., bergamot oil 6| drachms, clove oil
3J drachms, cinnamon oil 1 drachm, rose oil J drachm.
Victoria hair oil. Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., slightly
colored with alkannin, palma-rose oil, lavender oil, and
citronella oil each 1 oz., musk tincture 1 J drachms.
Cheap hair oil No. 1. Sunflower oil 500 drachms,
bergamot oil 3, rosemary oil 1, lemon oil 1, neroli and
thyme oil each J.
Cheap hair oil No. 2. Sunflower oil 500 drachms,
lemon oil 2, rosemary oil 3, lavender oil 5, geranium
011 1, musk tincture J, thyme oil 1.
BANDOLiNES.-^Baudolines are mucilaginous liquids,
and are prepared from substances forming mucilage,
such as gum-tragacanth, gum-arabic, Japanese gelatine,
quince seeds, flaxseed, etc. Gum-arabic adhering very
firmly, its use, however, cannot be recommended. The
substances above mentioned are heated with water until
the mucilaginous matter is extracted. The latter is then
strained through a cloth, and the mucilaginous, thick,
transparent liquid thus obtained perfumed. Volatile
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 305
oils dissolving with difficulty in the liquid, an Extrait is
generally used for perfuming, or an aromatic water for
dissolving the gums. If the bandoline is tfc be colored,
an arumoniaral carmine solution is to be usell. Aniline
colors should not be employed for, the purpose, since
they precipitate upon the scalp arm hair, even if only
traces of them are present.
Bandolines are not very durable ; their keeping pro-
perties may, however, Jbjg improved by the addition of
benzoic or boric acid.
Rose bandoline. Gum-tragacanth 1 lb, rose water
71bs.
Bring the pulverized gum-tragacanth into a suitable
earthenware or enamelled vessel, pour the rose water over
it, and let it stand in a right warm place until by the
swelling of the gum a thick mucilage is formed. If
the latter is to remain white, it is first strained through
a coarse linen cloth and then through a finer one; if,
however, the bandoline is to be rose color, triturate in a
mortar 1 to 1 J drachms of best carmine with as little
ammonia as possible, and distribute this coloring matter
in the mucilage. For the reception of the bandoline
jars with a sufficiently wide mouth for the index finger
finger to reach to the bottom are best..
Almond bandoline. Allow 5 Ibs. of rose water and
1J ozs. of quince seed to stand, with frequent shaking,
for 24 hours. Then strain and perfume with 2 drachms
of bitter almond oil.
BRILLIANTINE. Brilliantine is very popular for giv-
ing lustre to the hair of the head and the beard, and in
fact, if correctly prepared, it has many advantages, since,
owing to its composition, it considerably decreases, even
20
306 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
if it does not entirely prevent, the formation of the an-
noying dandruff.
Flower brilliantine No. 1. Chemically pure glycerin
1J ozs., alcoholic extract No. 2 from French-flower
pomade No. 24 10J ozs., French huile antique as much
as required.
Vigorously shake the glycerin and alcoholic pomade
extract in a glass flask until a uniform fluid is formed,
which should be clear as water. To give it, however,
an oily appearance, carefully mix with it a little san-
ders-wood tincture and turmeric tincture. Fill the
brilliantine glasses half full with the above mixture and
fill up the glasses with French huile antique of the same
flower-perfume as the respective alcoholic flower-
pomade extract, but do not shake, this being done only
when used.
Owing to the content of glycerin, which, as well
known, is non-volatile, the consumption of this brillian-
tine is very economical, while it is made very agreeable
by the fine French flower perfumes.
If it is desired to prepare the brilliantine at less cost,
pure alcohol may be substituted for the pomade extract
and any perfumed hair oil for the French huile antique.
Brilliantine No. 2. For brilliantine of quality II, the
glasses are first filled half full with perfumed hair oil
and then filled up with non-perfumed alcohol slightly
colored with sanders-wood tincture or turmeric tincture.
Glycerin is not used, and, hence, in this case the oil will
be on the bottom and the alcohol, being lighter, on top.
This brilliantine, containing no glycerin, is not so
economical as the preceding. It evaporates quite rapidly
and sometimes makes the hair hard, especially that of
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 307
persons having naturally dry hair. However, this second
quality is also quite popular and the perfumer must satisfy
the demands of his customers as much as possible.
Brilliantine No. 3. Castor oil 10 Ibs., pure alcohol 5
Ibs., Portugal oil 7 ozs., clove oil If ozs., petit-grain oil
1 oz., cassia oil 1 oz., citronella oil 11 drachms.
Mix the alcohol and castor oil in a glass-flask, then add
the volatile oils and shake vigorously. If the castor oil
is pure and genuine, it forms an intimate mixture with
the alcohol ; if, on the other hand, traces of oil appear
on the surface of the fluid, the castor oil is adulterated
with other fat oils and unsuitable for this purpose. The
castor oil should also be as fresh as possible and, under
no conditions, rancid.
If this brilliantine is desired of a somewhat yellowish
color, the object may be attained by the addition of
sanders-wood tincture or turmeric tincture.
That this brilliantine is of an inferior quality is shown
by its composition. It has the further disadvantage
that it plasters the hair, especially when the castor oil
becomes old. However, there are consumers with
whom this quality is quite popular.
The following formulas for brilliantine are taken from
various sources :
I. Veal fat 4 ozs., spermaceti 2 ozs., castor oil 12 ozs.,
oil of bitter almonds 1 drop, oil of cloves 10 drops, oil
of bergamot 20 drops. Melt together the first three
ingredients, and add the perfumes when nearly cold.
II. Almond oil 2J Ibs., spermaceti J lb., oil of lemon
3 ozs. Melt the spermaceti at a low temperature ; add
the oil and heat until all flakes disappear. Let the jars
308 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
into which it is to be poured be warm, and then cool as
slowly as possible to insure good crystals.
The following, although somewhat peculiar, is offered
as a good brill iantine :
III. Honey 1 fluid oz., glycerin and Cologne water
each J fluid oz., alcohol 2 fluid ozs. Mix.
HAIR TONICS. Hair tonics serve for cleansing and
invigorating the scalp and for preventing the hair from
falling out. Glycerin having a beneficial effect upon the
scalp is much used as one of the constituents. The tonics
also frequently contain ingredients said to promote the
growth of the hair, such as Peruvian bark extract, qui-
nine, tincture of cantharides, and substances containing
tannin. Hair tonics containing tincture of cantharides
should, however, not be too frequently used, as other-
wise an excessive stimulation of the scalp might be the
result, which would be more injurious than beneficial to
the growth of the hair.
Some receipts for hair tonics are here given.
Eau Athenienne. Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts,
vanilla tincture 1 J lb., cumarin tincture 7 ozs., bergamot
oil 3J ozs., rose-geranium oil 11 drachms, clove oil 14
drachms.
After 8 days, add 1 quart of rose water and mix
thoroughly.
Florida water No. 1. Alcohol 50 quarts, best laven-
der oil 3 Ibs., bergamot oil 1 lb., African rose-geranium
oil J lb., tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each
11 drachms, distilled water 16 quarts.
The alcohol, volatile oils, and tinctures are intimately
mixed in a glass balloon, then allowed to stand two to
three weeks when the distilled water is added and the
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 309
whole vigorously agitated. After adding the water the
fluid becomes very turbid and requires several weeks to
clarify. It is then filtered through paper. If, notwith-
standing filtering, it should remain somewhat turbid,
bring a small quantity of carbonate of magnesia upon
the filter.
Florida water No. 2. Alcohol 25 quarts, lavender oil
7 ozs., palmarosa oil 8 ozs., Portugal oil and red thyme
oil each 3| ozs., tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric
each 5J drachms, rain-water 10 quarts.
Proceed in the same manner as given for Florida
water No. 1.
Eau de Cologne hair tonic. Alcohol 8 quarts, oils
of bergamot and lemons each 1J ozs., lavender oil 11
drachms, rosemary oil 5J drachms, glycerin of 28 B.
3J ozs. After 8 days add 7 ozs. of bicarbonate of soda
dissolved in 2J quarts of distilled water.
Eau de quinine. Alcohol of best quality 20 quarts,
tinctures of gall-nuts and Peruvian bark each 2 quarts,
vanilla tincture 1 quart, bergamot oil 7 ozs., African
rose-geranium oil 3J ozs., clove oil 14 drachms, glycerin
of 28 B. 3 Ibs., Panama wood 4 Ibs., boiled with filtered
rain-water 12 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 Ib. dissolved
in 1 quart of water.
The alcohol, tinctures, and volatile oils are brought
into a glass balloon and after vigorous agitation allowed
to stand 8 days for the volatile oils to dissolve. The
decoction of Panama wood is then added, next the
bicarbonate of soda solution, and finally the whole is
thoroughly agitated. The Panama-wood decoction
should not be added while hot, as otherwise the glass
310 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
balloon might burst. Color the water with cochineal
tincture or henna tincture.
Eau de quinine (imitation). Alcohol 25 quarts, vanilla
tincture No. 2, 2 quarts, Portugal oil 1 lb., palmarosa
oil 8 ozs., clove oil 3J ozs., glycerin of 28 B. 3 Ibs.,
Panama wood 3 Ibs., boiled in rain-water 20 quarts,
bicarbonate of soda 1 lb., dissolved in rain-water 1
quart. Proceed in the manner given for genuine Eau
de quinine. Color with henna tincture.
Honey water. Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, orris-
root tincture 1 quart, angelica tincture 1 lb., tonka-bean
extract If ozs., turmeric tincture, as coloring matter, 5J
drachms, Portugal oil 7J ozs., lemon oil 1} ozs., cit-
ronella oil 5J drachms. After 8 days add 1 liter of
orange-flower water.
Glycerin hair tonic. Glycerin of 28 B. 1 quart,
borax 1 oz., rose water 2 quarts, alcohol 4 ozs., oils of
petit-grain and cloves each 2 drachms, rosemary oil 4
drachms.
Dissolve the borax in the water, the perfume in the
alcohol, and mix all together. It should be clear. Color
yellow, if desired, with saffron tincture.
Eau lustral (hair restorative). Castor oil 2 quarts, lin-
seed oil and tincture of cantharides each 4 ozs., alcohol
13 quarts, bergamot oil 2 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., clove oil
J oz., neroli oil 2 drachms.
Mix the two fat oils and dissolve them in the alcohol
by agitation. Then add the tincture of cantharides and
the perfumes, and color red with cochineal tincture or
henna tincture.
Tea hair tonic. Bay rum 2 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., alco-
hol 2 ozs., infusion of black tea 10 ozs. Mix and per-
HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 311
fume to suit. The tea infusion should be made very
strong, say 1 oz. of best tea (best quality) to 10 ozs. of
boiling water, let stand till cool, strain, and add the
other ingredients.
Locock's lotion for the hair. Expressed oil of nutmeg
5 fluid ozs., olive oil and stronger water of ammonia
each 20 fluid ozs., spirit of rosemary 40 fluid ozs., rose
water sufficient to make 20 pints. The above should
be mixed with skill, best by gradually pouring the com-
bined oils, with constant stirring, into the stronger water
of ammonia, previously diluted with the spirit, and after-
wards slowly incorporating the rose water.
Shampoo lotion. New England rum 1 pint, bay rum
12 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., carbonate of ammonium 1 oz.,
borax 2 ozs.
Shampoo liquid. The readiest agent to produce a good
lather upon the hair of the head is a solution of potassa
or soda or a dilute w r ater of ammonia. The latter, how-
ever, owing to its penetrating odor, is not usually liked.
The following combinations will be found service-
able :
I. Solution of potassa 4 fluid ozs., borax 1 oz., bay
rum J fluid oz., tincture of quillaga J fluid oz., water
enough to make 16 fluid ozs. This may be scented
according to taste.
II. Fresh eggs 3, spirit of soap 1J fluid ozs., carbo-
nate of potassium 160 grains, water of ammonia 160
drops, oil-sugar of cumarin 8 grains, oils of rose and
bergamot each 2 drops, French geranium oil 1 drop,
almond oil 1 drop, rose water 27 fluid ozs. Thoroughly
beat the 3 eggs, and then dilute with the rose water.
Then add the other ingredients.
312 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Oil-sugar of cumarin is prepared by triturating 1 part
of cumarin with 999 parts of sugar of milk.
Dandruff cures. I. Ointment of nitrate of mercury
1 drachm, petrolatum 7 drachms. Mix. Cut the hair
short and keep well brushed, and apply the ointment
every night for a fortnight.
II. Red oxide of mercury 10 grains, ammoniated
mercury 10 grains, petrolatum 1 oz. Mix, and apply
every night.
III. Corrosive sublimate 30 grains, glycerin 5 fluid
ozs., Cologne water 5 fluid oz?., water sufficient to make
15 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. 1.
Beta naphthol 120 grains, alcohol 20 fluid ozs. Mix
to make lotion No. 2.
Salicylic acid 120 grains, compound tincture of ben-
zoin 20 fluid drachms, olive oil 10 fluid ozs. Mix to
make lotion No. 3.
Wash the head thoroughly with terebene soap, rinse
well, and dry thoroughly ; then rub in some of solution
No. 1 and allow to dry, then use No. 2 in a like manner,
and finally apply No. 3. The treatment should be carried
out daily for a month, and then every alternate day for a
fortnight. The dandruff disappears in a few days, and
the hair in a short time becomes vigorous and supple.
Dandruff lotion. Chloral hydrate 1 drachm, glycerin
4 drachms, bay rum 8 ozs.
Bay rum. Genuine bay rum, as brought into com-
merce from St. Thomas, is said to be prepared by twice
distilling a fine quality of rum with the leaves and berries
of Myrcia acris or the bay-berry tree. The berries are
much richer in volatile oil than the leaves, but on account
of the height of the trees, the gathering of the berries
HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 313
is connected with so many difficulties and the harvest so
scanty, that the manufacturers prefer to mix leaves and
berries in a certain proportion.
The following directions for preparing bay rum are
given in Schimmel & Co.'s reports :
I. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 Ibs., water 4 Ibs., bay oil
5J drachms, pimento oil 2J drachms, clove oil 10 drops.
Mix, let stand for several days and filter.
II. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 Ibs., bay oil 15
drachms.
Mix, let stand for 2 weeks, and then add 8 Ibs. of best
Jamaica rum. This bay rum is said to be equal to the
imported.
Another receipt for bay rum is as follows :
III. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 1 quart, rectified spirit
of 60 per cent. 14 quarts, bay oil 1 oz., loaf sugar 4 ozs.
Beat up the sugar with the oil and add the alcohol ;
then the spirit, and finally filter.
Mierzinski gives the following formulae for bay
rum :
IV. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 40 drops, oil of mace
1 grain, oil of orange 20 drops, Jamaica rum 1 oz.,
water enough to make 16 ozs. Digest 2 or 3 weeks, and
filter through magnesia.
V. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 2 drachms, oil of cloves
1 drop, mace 20 grains, water warmed to 80 F. to
make 12 ozs. Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, digest
the mace in the solution for a few days, filter and add
the water. The whole is allowed to stand, with occa-
sional agitation, for several days, and filtered through
magnesia.
VI. Jamaica rum 36 ozs., 95 per cent, alcohol 36 ozs.,
314 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
oil of bay J oz., oil of pimento 1 drop, acetic ether 4
drops. Allow to stand at least 3 weeks before using.
HAIR DYES. The requirements of a good hair-dye
are that it can be readily applied, that it contains no inju-
rious substances, and that the coloration be as natural
and durable as possible. These demands are difficult to
fulfil, and it cannot be said that there is one of the
ordinary hair dyes which in every respect conies up to
them. Black hair dyes give the most natural colora-
tion, but the peculiar shade of blue-black hair cannot
be imitated. The medium colors, light brown and
blonde, are the least natural. Most dyes allow of rapid
coloration, though, in order to make the deception more
complete, a gradual coloration is by many persons pre-
ferred. Such gradual, though only very slightly darker
coloration, is attained by the use of hair oils and cer-
tain animal fats containing a slight content of sulphur
or iron, such as freshly expressed egg oil and neat's-foot
oil. It was formerly believed that egg oil, if used in
time, would even prevent the hair from turning gray.
The gradual darkening of the hair may also be effected
by agents, which are converted into colored combina-
tions only by the atmospheric oxygen or the content of
sulphur in the hair, such as extract from nut shells,
tannin, pyrogallic acid and many metals, the latter
chiefly in the form of pomades or hair oil. Dilute acids
used for some time make the hair somewhat lighter.
Mothers wishing to keep the hair of their children
blonde, avoid oils, and frequently wash the heads of the
children with vinegar or lemon juice. No coloration is,
however, durable ; it becomes in the course of time
vv e^,/: | x
w
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 315
gradually weaker, and the new growth of hair always
requires after-coloration.
For dyeing the hair metallic salts are chiefly employed.
Owing to their poisonous action the use of lead salts
for the purpose is prohibited in some countries, for
instance, in Germany and Austria. Silver is used in
the form of nitrate of silver (lunar caustic). In the
presence of organic substances, as well as under the in-
fluence of light, this combination is reduced, metallic
silver in small black grains being separated. Silver
salts also give a black precipitate of silver sulphide with
sulphuretted hydrogen. By simply moistening the hair
with silver solution they become brown to brown-black,
the coloration appearing more rapidly by previously
treating the hair with pyrogallic acid, or, after the ap-
plication of the silver solution, with sulphydrate of
sodium or potassium. The colorations produced with
nitrate of silver are very durable, but, if not dyed again
for some time, the hair acquires a greenish or reddish
color, this being especially the case if they were not
sufficiently freed from fat before dyeing. For freeing
the hair from fat, wash the hair with a mixture of 1 part
spirit of sal ammonia in 10 parts of brandy, and dry
carefully.
Copper salts with certain substances, such as potassium
ferrocyanide solution, potassium sulphydrate, calcium
sulphydrate, and pyrogallic acid give dark-brown colora-
tions. Of the copper salts, the sulphate in ammoniacal
solution is most frequently employed, though occasion-
ally also the chloride. These salts give a beautiful
brown color to the hair. Small quantities of copper salt
are also frequently added to the actual black dyes ; the
316 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
hair by this means acquiring a brown-black, instead of a
deep black color.
All the iron salts, with the exception of the chloride*,
may be used for dyeing the hair. Soluble iron salts by
themselves make the hair somewhat darker, but this
slow, natural process is not relied on, and a second sub-
stance forming dark colored combinations with the iron,
such as sulphur, tannin, or pyrogallic acid, is, as a rule,
employed. To this class belongs a Turkish hair dye,
which, according to X. Landerer, is prepared as follows :
Gall-nuts converted to a fine powder are mixed with oil
and roasted in a pan until no more empyreumatic vapors
and odor are evolved. The black powder thus obtained
is made into a paste with water, and into it is stirred a
finely pulverized mass prepared from ferrous oxide,
copper, and antimony, the result being a deep black
mass. This dye is called Rastikopetra (eyebrow-
stone). It is one of the Oriental cosmetics used by
both men and women.
Potassium permanganate solution is reduced by or-
ganic substances, peroxide of manganese being formed.
A concentrated solution of this salt imparts to the hair
and skin an intense brown color, which, however, is not
very durable, and requires frequent renewing.
Pyrogallic add may be used for darkening the hair,
not only in combination with metallic substances, but
also by itself, or with alkalies. Hair moistened with
pyrogallic acid becomes under the influence of light and
air dark gray to blackish. However, the color is not
handsome, and appears only in the course of weeks. In
connection with alkalies, pyrogallic acid produces a red-
brown to black-brown coloration.
317
Under the name of Kohol, an extremely fine powder,
consisting of black sulphide of antimony, is used in
Egypt by all classes for blackening the edges of the eye-
lids and the eyebrows.
A hair dye, much used in the Orient, is henna, the
dried and pulverized leaves of Lawsonia inermis. By
the women this powder is used for coloring the hair and
nails red-brown. In the Turkish sweating baths the
attendants scatter the henna upon the hair of the women
and tie it upon the finger nails. The women then fre-
quently remain for hours in the steam bath, whereby the
powdered henna is converted into an extract-like mass
which colors hair and nails red-brown. It is said that
henna even colors the coal-black hair of the Arabs red-
brown, which is considered beautiful. Before treating
with henna, the hair must be freed from fat with soap
or fuller's earth.
Hair dyed red with henna acquires a beautiful black
color when subsequently treated with indigo, this mode
of dyeing black being much in vogue in the Orient.
The process is as follows : The hair, being freed from
fat with soap, is divided into separate strands and
anointed with quite a stiif paste prepared from pulver-
ized henna and lukewarm water. The hair, after t>eing
smoothed, is allowed to remain for at least one hour in
contact with the paste, and is then rinsed off with luke-
warm water. Being slightly dried, it is then in the
same manner anointed with a paste prepared from indigo
and water, and allowed to remain in contact with it for
one hour. The hairs which were colored orange-red by
the henna, now have a greenish-black appearance, but
by the oxidation of the indigo in a short time acquire an
318 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
intensely blue-black color, which is extraordinarily
durable, the hair only after several months requiring to
be again dyed.
The freshly expressed juice and the fresh parenchyma
of green walnut shells, or of unripe walnuts, gradually
color light or gray hair dark to nut-brown. The color-
ing substance is not thoroughly known, but is very
likely a phloroglucide ; it is extracted by fats and alcohol,
but, according to Paschkis, is no longer effective in such
solution. This, however, is not correct in regard to the
alcoholic extract, because the extract from ordinary wal-
nut shells, prepared by mixing the expressed juice of
green walnut shells with 10 parts of alcohol, allowing
the mixture to stand for ten days, and then filtering,
also colors brown.
Peroxide of hydrogen bleaches organic substances,
dark or red hair being thereby changed to reddish-yel-
low or pale blonde. The coloration, or rather bleaching,
does not appear at once, but is complete only after some
time. The peroxide of hydrogen only exists in aqueous
solution, which should be quite concentrated (15 to 20
per cent.). Owing to the mode of preparation, the solu-
tion always contains some nitric acid and readily de-
composes, when exposed to light and air, whereby it
becomes useless.
In the following, a number of formulae for hair-dyes
are given. According to their constitution, they may
be divided into two groups, viz : A. Dyes which con-
tain the coloring matter in a finished state; and, B.
Dyes which are formed upon the hair by a chemical
process. The dye should first be applied in a dilute
state, and the application repeated in case the desired
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 319
shade is not produced, since by the use of the dye in a
concentrated form a shade not resembling any natural
color might be obtained, hair which is to be colored
black acquiring, for instance, a metallic blue-black
lustre.
A. SINGLE HAIR DYES. Teinture Orientale (Karsi).
Ambergris 2} drachms, gall-nuts 4 Ibs., pulverized iron
1} ozs., pulverized copper 1 drachm, musk 1 drachm.
Convert the gall-nuts to a fine powder, and roast the
powder in an iron pan, stirring constantly until it is
dark brown to blackish. Rub the powder together
with the metallic powders, and the perfume substances
and keep the mixture in a damp place. For use moisten
some of the powder upon the hand and apply to the
hair, rubbing it in vigorously. In a few days the hair
acquires a deep black, quite natural color. In roasting,
the tannin-substances contained in the gall-nuts are con-
verted into gallic and pyrogallic acids, which yield with
the metals combinations of a deep black color, and are
even readily converted into black-brown bodies (humin
bodies).
Teinture Chinoise (Kohol). Gum-arabic 1 oz., Chinese
ink If ozs., rose-water 1 quart. Reduce the gum-
arabic and Chinese ink to fine powder, and triturate
the powder in small quantities with rose water until a
homogeneous black fluid free from grains is formed.
Collect this fluid in a bottle and mix it with the re-
maining rose water. Kohol is only suitable for persons
with black hair and is especially used for dyeing the eye-
brows. The coloring matter of this preparation con-
sisting only of carbon in a very finely divided state, it
is perfectly harmless.
320 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Potassium permanganate hair dye. Potassium per-
manganate 5 ozs., distilled water 2 quarts. Crystallized
potassium permanganate dissolves with great ease in
water to a deep violet fluid. By bringing the solution
in contact with an organic substance paper, linen, skin,
horn, hair it rapidly discolors, imparting to the sub-
stances a brown color, which originates from peroxide of
manganese. Free the hair from fat by washing, and
apply the dilute solution with a soft brush. The color
appears immediately, and according to the degree of
dilution, all shades of color from blonde to darkest
brown may be produced with this perfectly harmless
agent. It may, of course, also be used for dyeing the
beard.
Bismuth hair dye. Subnitrate of bismuth 10 parts,
10 per cent, solution of potassa and citric acid each a
sufficient quantity, glycerin 150 parts, water sufficient
to make 300 parts. Intimately mix the subnitrate of
bismuth and the glycerin by trituration, then heat the
mixture in a water-bath, and gradually add to it solu-
tion of potassa, under constant stirring, until the bis-
muth salt is dissolved. Next add a concentrated solution
of citric acid until only a slight alkalinity remains.
Finally add enough water to make 300 parts, and per-
fume according to preference.
Walnut hair dye. Bruise 40 parts of fresh green
walnut peel with 5 parts of alum, digest with 200 parts
of olive oil until all moisture has been dissipated, strain
and perfume the oil according to preference.
Pyrogallic hair stain. Pyrogallic acid J oz., water 3
ozs., alcohol 1 oz. This liquid gives a dark brown
color.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 321
B. -DOUBLE HAIR DYES. These and similar hair
dyes consist of two preparations, kept in bottles I and II.
The bottle II, which serves for the reception of the silver
preparation, must be of blue or black glass, since silver
salts are decomposed by light. For use, pour some of
the fluid in bottle I into a cup, and moisten the hair
with it by means of a soft brush. Then pour the fluid
in bottle II into another cup, and apply it with another
brush.
For dyeing brown. I (in the white bottle). Liver of
sulphur 7 ozs., alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle).
Nitrate of silver 4 ozs., distilled water 1 quart.
For dyeing black. I (in the white bottle). Liver of
sulphur 8 ozs., alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle).
Nitrate of silver 5 ozs., distilled water 1 quart.
Liver of sulphur is a leather-brown mass, readily
soluble in water. The solution has to be filtered before
it is brought into the bottles. By bringing the solutions
together black sulphide of silver is formed, which effects
the dark coloration of the hair. After using the dye, a
disagreeable odor of stale eggs adheres to the hair, which
is, however, readily removed by washing.
The silver hair dyes may also be made by preparing
the fluid in bottle II as follows : Add drop by drop water
of ammonia to the silver nitrate, kept constantly agitated
until the precipitate formed is redissolved.
Tannin hair dye. I (in the white bottle). Pulverized
gall-nuts 14 ozs., water 16 ozs., rose water 16 ozs. Boil
the gall-nuts in the water, strain the boiling fluid through
a close cloth into the rose water, and bring the fluid thus
obtained, while still hot, into the bottles, which should be
immediately closed. (It is absolutely necessary to bring
21
322 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
the fluid hot into the bottles, as otherwise mould is readily
formed.) II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 5
ozs., distilled water 1 quart. Add water of ammonia to
the silver solution until the precipitate at first formed is
redissolved.
Melanog&ne. I (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver
5J drachms, distilled water 2| ozs., water of ammonia
I oz. II (in the white bottle). Pyrogallic acid J
drachm, 40 per cent, spirit of wine 17 ozs.
Eau d'Afrique. I (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of
silver 1J drachms, distilled water 3J ozs. II (in the
white bottle). Sodium sulphide 4J drachms, distilled
water 3J ozs.
Krinochrom. I (in the white bottle). Pyrogallic
acid 5| drachms, distilled water 6J ozs., alcohol 5J ozs.
II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 6J drachms,
water of ammonia 2 ozs., distilled water 10 J ozs.
Copper hair dye. I (in the white bottle). Potassium
ferrocyanide (yellow prussiate of potash) 7 ozs., dis-
tilled water 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle). Cupric
sulphate (blue vitriol) 7 ozs., distilled water 1 quart.
Add to the cupric sulphate solution water of ammonia
until the pale blue precipitate at first formed is dissolved
to a beautiful dark blue fluid. This hair dye gives a dark
brown color, but great care has to be exercised in its
use, the yellow prussiate of potash being very poisonous.
DEPILATORIES. While the number of agents for pro-
moting the growth of the hair is a very small one, and
their efficacy not above doubt, there are, on the other
hand, quite a number of very effective agents for
the removal of hair, sulphur combinations being most
frequently used for the purpose. Rhusma is a depila-
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 323
tory which has long been known, and is still almost
exclusively used in the Orient. It consists of 1 part
orpiment and 6 parts of lime slaked to a powder. Mix
intimately by passing the ingredients through a sieve,
and preserve the mixture in tightly-closed vessels. For
use, stir some of. the powder to a paste with water, and
apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be
destroyed. As soon as the layer of paste begins to dry
remove it with a thin shaving of wood. Owing to the
energetic action of this depilatory upon the skin, ladies
are advised not to use it for the face.
Combinations of sulphur with the alkalies and alka-
line earths are much used as depilatories. Of these,
sodium sulphydrate, however, should never be used, with-
out the advice of a physician, as it acts very energetically
upon the skin, and frequently leaves scars behind. Cal-
cium sulphide is contained in Boettger's depilatory. It
is usually prepared by heating at a low red heat in a
securely -closed crucible an intimate mixture of 100
parts of finely-powdered quicklime with 90 parts of
precipitated sulphur. Of the calcium sulphide thus ob-
tained, mix 1 Ib. with 8 ozs. of starch and 7 drachms of
lemon oil. Apply the paste to the place upon which
the hairs are to be destroyed, allowing it to remain 20
to 30 seconds. The action of barium sulphide, which
is frequently used as a depilatory, is much less energetic
than that of calcium sulphide. It is, for instance, a
constituent of Bartholow's depilatory, which consists of
barium sulphide 1 part, caustic lime 1 part, and starch
2 parts, made into a paste with alcohol.
324 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
CHAPTER XIII.
COSMETICS.
UNDER this heading will be considered toilet vinegars,
washes, perfumed powders, pastes, skin pomades, as well
as paints.
The fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch
of perfumery. The materials used for the purpose
should be selected and of good quality even for cheap
articles, which are, of course, also represented in the fol-
lowing receipts.
SKIN COSMETICS. Toilet vinegars. Perfumed vine-
gars, when added to wash water, have a refreshing effect
and are also used as fumigating agents by mixing them
with water in a dish and placing the latter in the room.
Vinaigre de Bully. Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts,
tinctures of orris root, tolu balsam, benzoin and storax,
each 1 lb., olibanum tincture J lb., vanilla tincture and
best lavender oil 5J ozs., bergamot oil and lemon oil
each 4J ozs., acetic acid 2 Ibs.
Vinaigre de toilette d la rose. Alcohol of best quality
5 quarts, benzoin tincture 1 lb., angelica tincture 8 ozs.,
extrait rose No. 1, 1 lb., French rose geranium oil 3J
ozs.," acetic acid 14 ozs.
Vinaigre de toilette d la violette. Alcohol of best
quality 5 quarts, orris-root tincture 2 quarts, tinctures
of benzoin and storax each 7 ozs., bergamot oil 2J ozs.,
liquid orris-root oil* 11 drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.
* See foot-note, p. 257.
COSMETICS. 325
Vinaigre de toilette heliotrope. Alcohol of best quality
5 quarts, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1 quart,
musk root tincture 3J ozs., benzoin tincture 1 Ib., berga-
mot oil If pzs., verbena oil and palma-rosa oil each 14
drachms, clove oil 8J drachms, acetic acid 1 Ib.
Vinaigre de toilette orange. Alcohol of best quality
5 quarts, benzoin tincture 10J ozs., abelmosk tincture
and vitivert tincture each 8 ozs., civet tincture 14
drachms, Portugal oil 8 ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.
Vinaigre de toilette. Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts,
orris-root tincture 1| Ibs., tinctures of benzoin, tolu bal-
sam and angelica each 1 Ib., French rose-geranium oil
1} ozs., bergamot oil 4J ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil
each 3J ozs., neroli oil 8J drachms, best rosemary oil 11
drachms, peppermint oil 5J drachms, acetic acid 2 Ibs.
Aromatic vinegar. Tincture of benzoin 1 oz., alcohol
1 J oz., acetic ether and extract of jasmine each 1J ozs.,
acetic acid 3J ozs., oil of rose 10 drops, oils of neroli and
wintergreen each 5 drops.
English aromatic vinegar. Crystallized acetic acid 20
ozs., camphor 2 ozs., oil of lavender 10 drops, oil of
cloves 30 drops, oil of cinnamon 15 drops. Mix and
dissolve.
The preparation is used for smelling-bottles. The
vials are first filled with sulphate of potassa in small
crystals, and enough acetic acid is added to thoroughly
moisten the salt. The use of sulphate of potassa is
said to have originated from the fact, that the acid mix-
ture was formerly obtained by introducing into the
vials acetate of potassa and a sufficiency of sulphuric
acid. Whether this be true or not, sulphate of potassa
326 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the liquid
in the bottle. It acts simply as an incorrodible sponge.
Toilet vinegar. Essence of bergamot 20 drops, es-
sence of ambergris 4 drachms, essence of vanilla and
oil of neroli each 30 drops, strong acetic acid 160 drops,
alcohol 6 ozs.
Washes. Washes are mostly milky fluids or emul-
sions, formed by the fine division of resins or balsams
in water, benzoin and myrrh being especially employed
for the purpose. Of the former, it was at one time
believed that fumigations with it every evening after
washing would prevent wrinkles in the face. The emul-
sions are used by adding one to two tablespoon fills to
the wash-water. Perfumed glycerin is also much em-
ployed as an addition to wash-water.
Virginal milk (Lait virginal). Alcohol of finest
quality 2J quarts, bergamot oil and Turkish rose oil
each 5J drachms, benzoin tincture 1 quart.
Pulverize in a porcelain mortar about 14 drachms of
sugar, add the bergamot oil and rose oil and mix inti-
mately. Now bring the paste-like substance into a
glass bottle, rinse out the mortar with the alcohol and
add the latter to the contents of the bottle. Close the
latter with a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm
room for 8 days, shaking frequently. Then add the
benzoin tincture, mix intimately and finally filter
through paper. This fluid is used by adding sufficient
of it to the wash-water to form an emulsion, which
exerts a refreshing and invigorating effect upon the skin
and olfactory nerves.
Rose milk (Lait de rose). Rose water 5 Ibs., white bees-
COSMETICS. 327
wax and comminuted Castile soap each 3J ozs., potash
4J ozs., Extract rose No. 1 8 ozs.
Heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel,
and dissolve in it the Castile soap. Then add the wax,
and, when this is dissolved, the potash, stirring con-
stantly, while the substances are dissolving. When
solution is complete, strain the milk-like fluid through a
cloth (best gauze or muslin) into another vessel, cover it
and allow it to cool. When cold add the Extrait rose,
shake thoroughly and fill it into bottles for sale.
If the Lait de rose is to be rose color, add very care-
fully a small quantity of corallin tincture and shake
vigorously.
Besides wax, fatty or oily substances should not be
employed in the preparation of these emulsions, as
otherwise they would soon become rancid.
Almond milk (Lait d'amandes ameres). Distilled water
5 Ibs., bitter almonds 1 lb., white beeswax 1} ozs., com-
minuted Castile soap 2J ozs., potash 3J ozs., bitter-
almond oil 8J drachms, dissolved in extract from Pomm.
Tubereuse 8 ozs.
Scald and peel the bitter almonds. Then convert
them to a paste by pounding in a clean mortar, bring
the paste into the distilled water, and extract in a water-
bath for about } hour. Then strain the liquid through
a cloth, successively dissolve the other substances in the
strained fluid in the water-bath, and when all is dis-
solved, strain again and proceed as given for rose milk.
The bitter-almond oil is dissolved in the extract from
Pomm. Tubereuse and added last of all to the liquid
mass.
328 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Lily milk (Lait de lys). Rose water, orange-flower
water, and jasmine water each 1 quart, white beeswax
3J ozs., Castile soap 2J ozs., potash and orris-root tinc-
ture each 3J ozs., cumarin tincture If ozs., dissolved in
musk-root tincture 3J ozs., bergamot oil If ozs. Pro-
ceed as given for Lait de Rose.
In regard to the Castile soap, it may here be remarked
that it should be neutral and contain no excess of oil, as
otherwise all the preparations above given might, in a
short time, become rancid.
Perfumed glycerin with rose odor. Chemically pure
glycerin of 28 B. 10 Ibs., Extrait rose No. 1, 8 ozs.
By adding the Extrait rose, the glycerin becomes tur-
bid, but clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing
the mixture to stand quietly for several days. Filtering
the fluid is not advisable, and besides entirely useless.
Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor. Chemically pure
glycerin of 28 B. 10 Ibs., any kind of fruit ether If
ozs. Shake thoroughly. The glycerin, if chemically
pure, is not rendered turbid by the fruit ether, which,
of course, must also be of the best quality. ^
PERFUMED MEALS AND PASTES. The(perfumed
meals are frequently used for washing in place of soap,
or they are applied after washing, or shaving, to the skin
to prevent the latter from becoming rough or chapped. \
The pastes are applied in order to make the skin softeryr
Farin de noisette (nut meal). Best quality wheat flour
3 Ibs., almond meal 1J Ibs., orris-root powder 1 lb., ber-
gamot oil 2 ozs.
Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture
through a fine sieve.
COSMETICS. 329
Farin d'amandes ameres (almond meal). Best quality
wheat flour and almond meal each 3 Ibs., bitter-almond
oil 1 oz.
Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture
through a fine sieve.
Pate d'amandes au miel (honey almond paste). Best
quality almond meal 2 Ibs., honey 4 Ibs., chemically pure
glycerin of 28 B. 2 Ibs., fresh olive oil 4 Ibs., bitter-
almond oil If ozs., the yolks of 20 eggs.
Sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware
dish. Mix the honey and glycerin after slightly warm-
ing them. Beat the yolks of the eggs in a small dish
with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed. Now
add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and
of the olive oil to the almond meal, work the whole
thoroughly with the pestle, then add the yolks of the
eggs, stirring constantly, and finally the bitter-almond
oil. The whole now forms a viscous mass. It is best
to keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed
earthenware pot in a cool place for about 14 days before
distributing it into boxes, because after the ingredients
are mixed together a slight fermentation takes place
which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the
porcelain boxes.
Ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin,
upon the hands, face, and neck, for which, in fact,, it
has proved excellent.
Poudre de riz a la rose. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared
talc 19 ozs., Extrait rose No. 1, 3J ozs., French rose-
geranium oil 14 drachms, clove oil 2f drachms.
The ingredients are intimately mixed and passed
through a sieve. The perfumes are brought together in
330 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
a glass and thoroughly shaken. The same directions
hold good for all succeeding receipts for Poudre de riz.
Of talc only the whitest pieces should be used, the
Briancon talc or French chalk being very suitable for
the purpose, it yielding a vervjarhite and delicate powder.
It is prepared as follows : L)ver 1 part of talc pour 2
parts of vinegar, let it stand, with frequent snaking, for
14 days, then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with
distilled water. J
If rose-colored poudre de. riz rose is demanded, add to
the proportions of weight above given about 1 oz. of
madder, triturate it thoroughly with the powder, per-
fume, triturate again, and finally pass the whole through
a fine sieve.
These rice powders are best kept in well- closed tin
canisters.
Poudre de riz heliotrope. Eice flour 4 Ibs., prepared
talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, French rose-
geranium oil 5 drachms, clove oil 2J drachms, vanilla
tincture 10 drachms, Extrait heliotrope No. 1, 1} ozs.
Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz a la rose.
Poudre de riz a la violette. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared
talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, liquid orris-root
oil 2J drachms, Extrait Violette No. 1, 1 oz., cumarin
tincture 5 drachms.
Proceed as directed for Poudre riz a la rose.
Poudre de riz orange. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared
talc 19 ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., petit-grain oil 5 drachms,
extract frpm Pommade Orange 1 oz.
Proceed as directed for Poudre riz a la rose.
Poudre de riz muguet. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared
talc 19 ozs., ylang-ylang oil, winter-green oil, angelica
COSMETICS. 331
oil, and bitter-almond oil each 2 drops, bergamot oil 5
drops, storax tincture 14 drachms, Extrait Muguet No.
1, 3J ozs.
Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz a la rose.
Poudre de riz ixora. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared talc
19 oz., bergamot oil 2J drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1
drachm, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each If ozs.,
extract from Pomm. Cassie or Extrait ixora if ozs.
Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz a la rose.
Poudre de riz bouquet. Rice flour 4 Ibs., prepared
talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 8 drachms, African rose oil and
Ceylon cinnamon oil each 2f drachms, Extrait ess-
bouquet No. 1, 3J ozs.
Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz a la
__
COLD CREAMS AND LiP-SALVES.-\The purpose
cold creams and lip-salves is to impart lustre to the skin
and protect it from cracking in changes of temperature.
Cold cream. Fat-almond oil 3 Ibs., spermaceti 5J- ozs.,
white beeswax 7 ozs., best rose water 1 quart, bergamot
oil 14 drachms, Turkish rose oil 5J drachms.
Melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath, first the
spermaceti and wax, then add the almond oil, and when
the whole forms a liquid allow the previously warmed
rose water to flow in slowly, stirring constantly. Now
take the dish from the water-bath, and with a large
spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to
thicken. Then stir in the perfume and fill the finished
cold cream in boxes.
Vaseline cold cream. White vaseline 2 Ibs., fat-almond
oil 1 lb., white beeswax If ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms,
French rose-geranium oil and Turkish rose oil each 2J
drachms.
332 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
Proceed (without the rose water) as directed for cold
cream.
Glycerin cream. Fat-almond oil 3 Ibs., white bees-
wax and spermaceti each 7 ozs., chemically pure glycerin
of 28 B. 1 lb., bergamot oil 1 oz., clove oil, Turkish
rose oil, and French geranium oil each 2J drachms.
Proceed as above.
Creme de concombre. Fat-almond oil 8 ozs., white
beeswax 10 drachms, spermaceti 12 drachms, freshly-
expressed cucumber juice 7 ozs., volatile cucumber oil
2J drachms, ^bergamot oil 1J drachms.
Grate the cucumbers on a grater, place the grated
mass upon a clean white cloth, and gently express the
juice so that no mucus passes through the cloth. The
cucumber juice is slightly warmed, the rest of the pro-
cess being the same as with cold cream.
Glycerin gelee. Gum- tragacanth 5J drachms, swelled
up in rose water 10J ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28
B. 7 ozs., honey 3J ozs., Extrait rose No. 1, If ozs.
Convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder, bring
the powder into a capacious glass flask, pour the rose
water upon it, and, after corking the flask, let it stand
for about 3 days, shaking it frequently and vigorously.
Then strain the swelled gum tragacanth, which now rep-
resents a thick fluid, through a white cloth or fine-meshed
sieve into a dish, and after adding the glycerin, honey,
and Extrait rose, mix the whole intimately, and fill the
tubes or glasses with the finished preparation. It is an
approved remedy for chapped skin.
Glycerin jelly. Glycerin 1 lb., fat-almond oil 3 Ibs.,
soap 2J ozs., orange-peel oil 2J drachms, thyme oil 5J
drachms.
COSMETICS. 333
Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil,
and finally the perfume.
Cream of roses. Gum tragacanth 25 grains, glycerin
1 oz., alcohol J oz., water 6J ozs., boric acid 40 grains,
spirits of lavender and bergamot each 1 oz.
Boroglycerin cream. Dissolve 1 part of boric acid in
24 parts of glycerin ; add to this solution 5 parts of
lanolin and 70 parts of petrolatum. This preparation
is said to be excellent for chapped hands, lips, etc.
Recamier cream. The following formula is said to
produce something quite similar to this preparation :
zinc oxide 4 ozs., glycerin 13 fluid drachms, water 5
fluid drachms, spirit of rose (4 drachms to 1 pint) 1
fluid drachm.
Preparations for chapped hands. I. Quince seed 2
ozs., rose water 16 ozs., glycerin 32 ozs., tincture of
benzoin 2 ozs. Macerate the quince seeds in the rose
water 24 hours, strain, and add the glycerin and benzoin.
II. Balsam of Peru 1 drachm, purified wool fat 1
oz. Perfume to suit.
III. Menthol 1.5 parts, salol 2, olive oil 2, lanolin
50. Apply .twice daily. The pain soon ceases, the
skin softens and the chaps quickly disappear.
IV. Quince seed 1J drachma, boric acid 4 grains,
carbolic acid 10 grains, glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 3 ozs.,
cologne 2 ozs., oil of lavender 20 drops, glycerite of
starch 2 ozs., water sufficient to make 1 pint. Dissolve
the boric acid in 8 ozs. of water, macerate the quince
seed in the solution for three hours and then press
through a straining cloth, add the glycerin, carbolic acid
and glycerite of starch and mix thoroughly. Mix the
334 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol, add the
solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well.
Wash for the hands. Tannin 8 grains, glycerin 5
drachms, rose water 4 ozs. Mix and filter. The hands
should be washed with soap in soft water, or water to
which a little borax has been added, thoroughly dried
and then well rubbed with the lotion.
Nail-powder. The following preparation serves for
the purpose of imparting smoothness and lustre to the
finger nails. For use apply some of the powder to a
piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until they
show lustre.
Stannic oxide (putty powder) 2 Ibs., carmine 5J
drachms, oils of bergamotand la vender each 2J drachms.
Rub the stannic oxide as fine as possible and mix it in
the mortar with the other ingredients.
Lip-salve No. 1. Pomm. Rose No. 24 or 30, 8 ozs.,
best carmine nacarat 2J drachms.
Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly
triturate it with the Pomm. Rose in a porcelain mortar
until no more specks of carmine are perceptible. By
this tritu ration the salve becomes very soft and delicate,
so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small
boxes. A pleasing lustre .is then imparted to the sur-
face of the salve by carefully moving each box to and
fro over the flame of an alcohol lamp. It may here be
remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring mat-
ter for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for in-
stance, alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily
acquires a bluish coloration.
If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the
object may be attained by the addition of a few drachms
COSMETICS. 335
of white beeswax. However, in this case, the pomade
must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade and wax
melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold,
fill into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an al-
cohol flame.
Lip-salve No. 2. Pomm. Rose No. 6 or 12, 10 J ozs.,
Huile antique rose No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white bees-
wax 5| drachms, carmine nacarat 2f drachms.
Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then
add, first, the oil, combine it witli the wax, then add the
pomade and finally the carmine. When all this is inti-
mately mixed, stir it until cold. The further process is
the same as aiven for No. 1.
PAiNTS.-^Jhe object of paints is to hide blemishes of /
the skin and to impart to it a different color as a rule f
a youthful one from that bestowed by nature, though /
under certain conditions, especially in the case of actors, \
they are also employed for the purpose of changing the '
expression of the face.} A distinction is made between
pulverulent, solid, liquid and fat paints.
PULVERULENT PAINTS (POWDERS). The simplest
powder is wheat starch. It forms a dull white powder
with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly harmless. Pow-
dered talc, prepared in the manner previously described
(p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100
parts of prepared talc, while still moist, with 12 parts
of spermaceti, previously rubbed to a moist powder
with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate
heat, a product known in commerce as u Blanc fard,"
or " Blanc frajigais/' is obtained.
Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is
mixed, according to circumstances, with subnitrate of
336 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
bismuth (flake-white), magnesia, chalk or zinc-white.
White lead, though frequently used, cannot be recom-
mended, it being injurious to health. Subnitrate of
bismuth furnishes the best white ; it has, however, the
disadvantage of turning brown in air containing sul-
phuretted hydrogen. Zinc-white does not have this de-
fect, but lacks the lustre and pure white color.
Customary mixtures for powders are as follows :
I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5
parts, prepared talc 15, zinc-white 10.
II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts,
prepared talc 15, subnitrate of bismuth 20.
The powders are prepared in three colors : white,
rose-color and yellowish. To heighten the white color
the powder is mixed with about J of one per cent, of
ultra-marine. For rose color some carmine is used, and
for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre.
A powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared
as follows : Mix 100 parts of prepared talc with 2.5 or
more parts of carmine, according to the desired shade
of color. The carmine is triturated by itself and in
small portions added to the talc. It should not be
dissolved, as given in many directions, in ammonia, it
losing thereby its fiery red. To obtain an especially
delicate powder, the finished article should be carefully
bolted through silk.
SOLID PAINTS. Solid paints may be prepared from
the above-mentioned powders by stirring them to a paste
with thin gum solution.
Ordinary red paint (rouge). Prepared talc 2 Ibs., car-
mine 1 oz., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from dis-
tilled water 3J ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2J drachms, best
COSMETICS. 337
olive oil 5J drachms, best alcohol 1 oz., spirits of sal
ammoniac J tablespoon ful, distilled water as much as
required.
Fine red paint (rouge). Prepared talc 2 Ibs., carmine
1 J ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled
water 3J ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2 \ drachms, best olive
oil 5J drachms, Extrait rose No. 1, 1 oz., spirits of sal
ammoniac J tablespoonful, rose water as much as required.
White paint. Prepared talc 2 Ibs., gum-tragacanth
mucilage prepared from distilled water 3J ozs. and gum-
tragacanth 2J drachms, best olive oil 5J drachms, Extrait
rose No. 1, 1 oz., rose water as much as required.
The above-mentioned paints may be filled in small
porcelain boxes, which must, however, be hermetically
closed to prevent drying out. To obviate the latter,
the paints may be mixed with glycerin, which must,
however, be carefully done so that the mass does not
become liquid ; too much glycerin may also make the
paint blue.
Regarding the preparation of these paints, the follow-
ing may be said : The prepared talc is passed through a
fine-meshed sieve into a porcelain dish. The carmine is
rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and then triturated
with water* in the same mortar until no more specks of
carmine are visible. Now add the dissolved carmine to
the talc in the porcelain dish, stir thoroughly with a
horn or wooden spoon, and gradually add sufficient rose
water to form a dough-like mass. Then add to this
mass about 1} ozs. of gum-tragacanth mucilage, pre-
* For fine preparations, rose water is used ; for ordinary, distilled
water.
22
338 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
pared 3 or 4 days before from 2^ drachms of pulver-
ized gum-tragacanth and 3| ozs. of water, work the
mass thoroughly through, and add the 5J drachms of
best olive oil. The oil being also incorporated with
the mass, mix in the 1 oz. of Extrait rose or alcohol,
and again work the mass thoroughly through, when the
paint is ready to be brought upon porcelain plates.
The procedure is now as follows : By means of a
spoon bring a quantity of the paint, about the size of
three hazelnuts upon the centre of a porcelain plate,
spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by
knocking the latter against the table, and in the same
manner cover 6 or 8 plates. These are the test-plates.
Tie a piece of paper over the dish containing the rest
of the paint and set it aside. Place the plates coated
with paint in a dry place to dry, but do not expose them
to sunlight, nor should soaps be kept in the room, as in
both cases the paint would become blue. After 12 to
1.8 hours the paint upon the plates will be dry, and now
comes the most difficult part of the manipulation. With
a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card
scrape off very carefully and uniformly a small quan-
tity from the surface of the paint, proceeding from the
edges towards the centre of the plate. Then, to see
whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate, knock the
edge of the latter quite vigorously against the table. If
it adheres firmly, cover the entire plate with a piece of
watered silk, catch the ends of the latter beneath the
plate with the left hand, and, with the palm of the right,
run quite hard over the silk. By this means the moire
of the silk is imprinted upon the paint, giving it a nice
appearance. Proceed in the same manner with the six
COSMETICS. 339
or eight test-plates, and if the paint upon them bears
the manipulation without dropping off, work up the rest
of the paint in the dish. If, however, the paint does
not adhere to the plates, it is proof of it containing not
enough gum-tragacanth. In this case add some of the
mucilage to the paint in the dish, work it thoroughly
through, and proceed in the manner described. Pack-
ing, labelling, etc., being subject to fashion, need not
here be described, but as the charm of novelty con-
tributes much to the sale of an article, the manufacturer
should make it his business to invent new attractive de-
signs, without too much imitating others.
Red stick-paint (Stick rouge). Prepared talc 1 lb.,
carmine 5| drachms, olive oil 2} drachms, alcohol 8J
drachms, spirit of sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful,
distilled water and gum-tragacanth mucilage as much as
required.
The mode of preparation is the same as for solid
paints, except that in order to give the rouge more con-
sistency, less water and gum-tragacanth mucilage are to
be used.
For moulding the rouge into sticks, round tin moulds
about 2J inches long and of the thickness of a finger
are used. To facilitate the removal of the rouge
sticks, the inside of the moulds is rubbed with a rag
moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin
stick of wood. After removing the sticks from the
mould, they are allowed to dry superficially, and next
wrapped first in tissue paper and then in tinfoil, one
end, however, being left free from paper and tinfoil.
They are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes.
340 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
White stick paint is prepared in the same manner as
stick rouge, with the exception that the carmine is omitted.
Rouge en/cutties. Prepared talc If ozs., carmine 2f
drachms, olive oil 10 to 15 drops, spirits of sal ammo-
niac about 50 drops, pure alcohol 5J ozs., distilled water
or rose water 8 ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage If ozs.
The carmine is first rubbed fine, then the olive oil,
spirits of sal ammoniac, and gum-tragacanth mucilage
are successively thoroughly triturated with the carmine,
next the talc is added, then the water, and finally the
alcohol. Mix all intimately in a mortar with the pestle.
The whole forms a fluid which, by means of a fine brush,
is applied to a square piece of white card board, so that a
circular disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre
of the paper. The application of the rouge to the paper
has to be repeated three or four times, allowing one layer
to dry before applying the next. When the last layer is
dry, the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of tissue
paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper
cutter over the tissue paper. In packing, a piece of
tissue is laid between the separate pieces.
LIQUID PAINTS/ Liquid paints are chiefly used by
actors. \
LiquidA-ouge. Rose water 1 \ quarts, carmine If ozs.,
fcxtrait rose No. 1, 1 Ib.
Heat the rose water, without allowing it to boil, in a
glazed earthenware vessel, add the carmine, previously
rubbed fine, to the hot rose water, and stir the fluid with
a clean wooden spatula until the carmine is completely
divided. Then take the vessel from the fire and add
a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac. The latter
imparts to the rouge a brighter red, but not too much
COSMETICS. 341
of it should be used, as otherwise the rouge acquires a
bluish shade, and besides the odor of the spirits of sal
ammoniac is not exactly agreeable. When the rouge is
cold add 1 Ib. of Extrait de rose, mix the whole inti-
mately, and filter through white filtering paper into a
clean glass bottle. The rouge has to be protected from
sunlight.
White liquid paint. Fine zinc- white 3 Ibs., rose water
or orange water 3J quarts.
In a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in 5
quarts of distilled water, stirring constantly, until about
3 quarts of the water are evaporated. Then take the
vessel from the fire and allow the fluid to stand quietly
for J hour. Then carefully decant off the supernatant
water, pour the 3J quarts of rose water or orange water
upon the zinc-white, stir thoroughly, and fill in bottles.
-Fat paints. Fat paints of various colors and shades
are prepared chiefly for the use of actors. The ground
mass consists of Blanc fard or Blanc franqais, or simply
of pulverized talc bolted through silk. It is colored,
according to the color desired, with carmine, eosin,
sienna, lamp black, or aniline colors, and incorporated
in the proportion of 1J ground mass to 1 fatty mass,
with the fatty mass consisting of white wax 3 parts and
olive oil 7 parts ; or paraffin 1J parts and white vase-
line 2 parts. The fatty mass is melted in the water-
bath, the powder stirred in, and after allowing the
mixture to cool somewhat, it is perfumed and poured
into tin tubes previously slightly warmed.
Besides the above-mentioned fat paints in sticks, there
are also fat paints in porcelain boxes, which are of a some-
what softer consistency. They are prepared in white,
342 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.
rose color, and yellowish. A few receipts for them are
as follows :
Creme de Lys. Melt 3 J ozs. of spermaceti and 7 ozs.
of white wax in the water-bath, and after taking the
mass from the fire mix it with 3| Ibs. of subnitrate of
bismuth, previously rubbed fine, with If Ibs. of almond
oil. Then allow to cool somewhat, next stir until en-
tirely cold, and perfume.
Creme de rose. Spermaceti 3J ozs., white wax 7 ozs.,
Blanc Francais 3 Ibs., carmine 8J drachms, almond oil
If Ibs.
Proceed as directed for creme de lys.
INDEX.
4 BELMOSK or musk-seed tinc-
A ture. 230, 231
Absorption or enfleurage, process
of, 60-65
Acacia oil, 87
Acetic amyl acetate or amyl ace-
tate, 201
ethyl or ethyl acetate, 201-204
Acid number, 81
African and French geranium oils,
112, 113
Alcohol and sulphuric acid test,
Hager's, 78
chloroform, and benzine, quan-
titative determination of
adulterations with, 72, 73
or spirit of wine, detection of,
in volatile oil, 68-71
Alcoholic perfumes, 219-255
Allspice, oil of, or pimento oil, 136
Almond bandoline, 305
meal, 329
milk, 327
oil (bitter), 87-93
adulterations of, 90-92
artificial, 89, 90
tincture. 234
paste, honey, 329
Alpine herb oil, 301
Ambergris, 31, 186-188 V
adulterations of, 188
tincture, 229
Ambreih or ambrin, 187
America and England, use and
preparation of nitrous ether in,
212-214
American curled mint oil, 132
English, or Canadian castor,
185, 186
musk-rat, musk of the, 181,
182
oil of turpentine, 149
peppermint oil, 132, 133
American soap industry, consump-
tion of citronella oil in the,
108
storax, 172
Amygdalin, 88
Amyl acetate or acetic amyl ace-
tate, 201
valerate or valerianic ether,
214-216
Anethol, 111
Angelica oil, 92, 93
root tincture, 231
Animal kingdom, perfume-sub-
stances from the, 178-188
Anise-seed oil, 93, 94
Antiseptic gargle, 275
Apparatus for alcoholic extracts
from flower pomades, 223-
225
for determining the percent-
age of volatile oil in a vege-
table substance, 40, 41 ,
for distilling lemon oil, 118- f
120
for the absorption process, 62-
64
for the distillation of volatile
oil, 41-46
for the extraction of volatile
oils, 48-57
for the preparation of tinc-
tures, 226, 227
Apple essence, 216
ether, 216
pomade, 289
Apricot essence, 216, 217
ether, 216
Aqua mellis, 255
Arabian physicians, receipts for
cosmetics in the writings of, 26 ^
Arnica tooth-tincture, 276
Aromatic vinegar, 325
English, 325, 326
344
INDEX.
Artificial musk, 182, 183 V
perfume- materials, 189-218
Athens, luxurious use of ointments i
in, 22
Atomizers, 263
Atomizing, pine odor for, 265
Attar of roses or rose oil, 136-
144
Austrian oil of turpentine, 148
Avicenna, receipts for cosmetics in
the writings of. 26 J
BALM oil, 96
Balm -oil tincture, 234
Balsam, Brazilian, 166
Carthagena, 166
fumigating, 265, 266
Peru, 159-166
pine oil, 149, 150
Tolu, 166-168 -
new variety of, 167, 168
white Indian, 172
Peru, 172
Peruvian, 130, 161
Balsams, 155, 156 V
and resins, 155-177
Balsamum Peruvianum, 159-166
Bandoline, almond, 305
rose, 305
Bandolines, 304, 305
Barenthin's application of Huhl's
iodine method to volatile oils,
80
Bartholow's depilatory, 323
Bartlett, W. W., menthol pungent
as prepared by, 260
Preston salt as prepared by,
260
Basil oil, 96
tincture, 234
Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves,
96, 97
Bay leaves, oil of, or bayberry oil,
96,97
Bay rum, 312-314
formulae for, 313, 314
Beard, Rogers's pomade for pro-
ducing a, 294
Bear's grease, 285
pomade, 289
Beauty-patch or mouche, 28
Beef marrow pomade, 294
Benzine, detection of, in volatile
oil, 71, 72
Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate,
204, 205
Benzoin, 157-159 ^
amygdaloid, 157
determination of cinnamic acid
in, 158, 159
flowers, 159
in tears, 157
lump, 157
pomade, 290
tincture, 229
treatment of fat oils with, 300,
301
varieties of, 158
Bergamot oil, 97, 98
tincture, 234
Betula lenta, oil from, 152
Beyer frfcres, apparatus for alco-
holic extracts
from flower po-
mades, 223-225
for the prepara-
tion of tinc-
tures, 226, 227
Birch oil, 152
Bismuth hair dye, 320
nitrate of, 335, 336
Bisulphide of carbon, 48
Black hair dyes, 321
tooth-powder, 280
wax pomade, 299
Blanc fard or blanc frar$ lis, 335
Blondel, Dr., memoir on the star
anise tree, by, 95
Blonde wax pomade, 299
Bocttger's depilatory, 323
Boroglycerin cream, 333
Bouchardat and Lafont, conver-
sion of oil of turpentine into
lemon oil by, 189, 190
Bouquet vaseline pomade, 296
Bouquets, 219, 240-245
Brazilian balsam, 166
Brilliantine, 305-308
formulas for, 307, 308
Brown hair dye, 321
wax pomade, 299, 300
Bulgaria, rose oil industry in, 137,
138
Burdock-root hair oil, 302
Butyric acid, preparation of, 205-
207
ether, formation of, 207, 208
or ethyl butyrate, 205-
210
INDEX.
345
riAJEPUT oil, 98, 99 ,
\J Camomile oil, 99, 100 r
Camphor tooth-powder, 280
Canadian, English, or American
castor, 185, 186
Canango oil, 154
tincture, 234
Caraway oil, 100, 101
Carbon* bisulphide of, 48
Carbonic acid, apparatus for de-
veloping a current of, 50-52
Carob or St. John's bread, 209
Carthagena balsam, 166
Carvene, 100
Carvol, 35, 100
Cassia oil, 103, 104
tincture, 235
value of, 104
Cassie, oil of, 87
Castor, 31
adulterations of, 186
Castoreum or castor, 185, 186
Castor oil, determination of, in
volatile oil, 67, 68
pomade, 293
or castoreum, 185, 186
tincture, 229
Cedar oil, 101
tincture, 235
Ceylon cinnamon oil, 102, 103
Chalk, 336
Chamomile oil, 99, 100
Chapped hands, preparations for,
333, 334
Chassis, 61
Cherry essence, 217
ether, 216
laurel oil, 101, 102
tooth-paste, 278
non-fermenting, 278
Chloroform, alcohol, and benzine,
quantitative determination
of adulterations with, 72,
73
detection of, in volatile oil, 71
Cineol, 123
Cinuamaldehyde, 103
quantitative determination of,
104-106
Cinnamic acid, determination of,
in benzoin, 158, 159
Cinnamon leaves, oil of, and cin-
namon-root oil, 104 I/
oil tincture, 235
oils, 102-106 ^
Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinna-
mon leaves, 104
Citrene, 35, 121
Citronella oil, 107, 108
. tincture, 235
Citronellol, 107
Citron oil, 106, 107
Civet, 31, 184, 185
tincture, 228
Clove-oil tincture, 235
Cloves, oil of, 108-110
Cold cream, 331
creams and lip-ealves, 331-335
Cologne water, 249-254
durability of volatile oils
used for, 250, 251
preparation of, 249, 250
receipts for, 252-254
Coloring substances for dentifrices
and mouth-waters,
272
for pomades, 286
Compound odors, 240-245
Copper hair dye, 322
nitroprusside of, test, 75-78
salts for dyeing the hair, 315,
316
Cortex thymiamatis, 168
Cosmetics, 324-342
and perfumeries in the Middle
Ages, 26, 27 V
and perfumes in Italy, 26,
27 *
receipts for, in the writings of
Arabian physicians. 26 /
Cream, boroglycerin, 333
cold, 331
glycerin, 332
of roses, 333
E^camier, 333
vaseline cold, 331
CrSme de concombre, 332
de lys, 342
de rose, 342
Cumarin, 190-193
manufacture of, 192, 193
tincture, 232
Curled mint oil, 132
Currant essence, 217
Cymene, 121
DANDRUFF cures, 312
lotion, 312
Densdorf pomade, 290
346
INDEX.
Dentifrice, singular, used by the
Roman ladies, 26
Dentifrices and mouth-waters, col-
oring; substances for, 272
mouth-waters, etc., 272-283
Depilatories, 322, 323
use of in ancient Rome, 25, 26
Dioscorides's directions for making
animal fats suit-
able for the recep-
tion of perfumes,
24
for prepai ing rose
ointment, 23, 24
" Medica materia," 23
Distillation of expressed oil, 39
of lemon oil, 118
of rose oil, 137, 138
of volatile oils, 39-48
ancient mode of, 24
Distilling apparatus for lemon oil,
118-120
Double hair dyes, 321, 322
Dragendorff 's test, 68, 69
Dry perfumes, 256-261
Dutch tonka bean, 191, 192
Dwarf pine oil, 149
PAST INDIAN geranium oil, 112
j Eau Atlienienne, 308
Eau d'Afrique, 322
de Botot (improved), 275
de Cologne, 249-254
durability of volatile oils
for, 250, 251
hair tonic, 309
preparation of, 249, 250
receipts for, 252-254
solid perfume, 260
de lavande, 255
double, 255
de Lisbonne, 255
de quinine, 309, 310
(imitation), 310
de vie de lavande double am-
brea, 255
dentifrice Botot, 274
Orieutale, 274, 275
lustral (hair restorative), 310
Ecuelle process for obtaining lemon
oil, 117, 118
Egg oil, virtues of, 314
Egypt, ancient, paints used in, 18,
19
Egyptians, use of perfume-sub-
stances by the, for embalming
the dead, 18
Elseoptene, 33
Emperor pomade, 292
Enfleurage or absorption, process
of, 60-65
England and America, use and
preparation of nitrous ether
in, 212-214
use of perfumery in, 30
English aromatic vinegar, 325, 326
Canadian, or American castor,
185, 186
peppermint oil, 132, 133
tonka bean, 192
Esprit de menthe, 276
Ess-bouquet sachet powder, 259
solid perfume, 260
Essence a 1'ecuelle, or au zeste, 117
apple, 216
apricot, 216, 217
cherry, 217
currant, 217
de jasmin, 114
de lavande Montblanc, 115
de mirbane, 199
grape, 217
lemon, 217
melon, 217
of Portugal, 125
of* the odor of Linden blos-
soms, 238
orange, 217
peach, 217
pear, 217
pine-apple, 217
plum, 217.
raspberry, 218
strawberry, 218
Essences and vinegars, fumigating,
264-266
pastilles, powders, etc., for
fumigating, 262-271
Essential or volatile oils, occur
rence of, in plants, 31
Ester or ether number, 82
Ether, apple, 216
apricot, 216
cherry, 216
or ester number, 82
pear, 216
pine-apple, 216
strawberry, 216
Ethers, fruit, 200-218
INDEX.
347
Ethyl acetate, or acetic ethyl, 201-
204
benzoate, or beuzoic ether, 204,
205
butyrate, or butyric ether, 205-
210
formate, or formic ethyl ether,
210, 211
nitrite, or nitrous ether, 211-
214
Eucalyptene, 111
Eucalyptol, 111
Eucalyptus oil, 110, 111
tincture, 235
Eugenol, 103, 109
Expression of volatile oils, 36-39
Extract, concentrated flower, 245
patchouli, 233
spinach, 239
Extraction of volatile oils, 48-58
or maceration of flowers, 286,
287
Extracts, alcoholic, from flower
pomades, apparatus for,
223-225
and tinctures, 225-237
Extrait acacia, 237
bouquet Eugenie, 241
Prince Albert, 243
Victoria, 242, 248
cassie, 237
chypre, 243, 244, 247
de violette de Parme, 239, 240
edelweiss, 240
ess-bouquet, 240, 241, 247
excelsior, 241
fleurs de Mai, 238
Frangipani, 241, 249
heliotrope. 237
ixora, 239,' 248, 249
jacinthe, 237, 238
jasmin, 238
jockey club, 241, 242
jonquille, 238
kiss-me-quick, 243
lily of the valley, 238
magnolia, 238
mareehal. 244
May flowers, 238
millefleurs, 242
mogadore, 243
mousselline, 244
muguet, 238, 248
musk, 243
new-mown hay, 243, 247
Extract opopanax, 242
orange, 239
patchouli, 242
reseda, 240, 246
rose, 246
v. d. centifolie, 239
spring-flower, 241, 248
tubereuse, 240
violette, 239, 246
white rose, 239
ylang-ylang, 240, 246, 247
Extraits aux fleurs, 219, 237-240
d'odeurs, 219
triple concentie"s, 244, 245
FACE, painting the, practised by
the Hebrew women, 19
Family pomade, 290, 291
vaseline pomade, 296
Farin d'amandes ameres, 329
de noisette, 328
Fat mixtures for hair pomades,
288, 289
paints, 341 , 342
Fats, animal, preparation of, for
the reception of perfumes,
24
for pomades and hair oils, 284
protection of, against rancid-
ity, 285
purification of, 285, 286
FedereFs, C. F., test for pepper-
mint oil, 135
Fennel oil, 111, 112
Filter, illustrated and described,
38,39
Filtration of expressed oils, 37-39
Flake-white, 336
Florentine flasks, 46, 47
Florida water, 308, 309
Flower brilliantine, 306, 307
extract, concentrated, 245
fumigating essence,heliotrope,
264
hair oil, 301
pomades, 286, 287
extraction of, 221-225
Flowers for the production of vola-
tile oils, localities best suited
for the cultivation of, 32, 33
maceration or extraction of,
286, 287
Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl for-
mate, 210, 211
348
INDEX.
France, cultivation of the bitter
orange in, 126
extravagant use of rouge in,
28, 29
golden ae:e for toilet articles
in, 27-29
introduction of the arts of the
toilet into, 27
old process of maceration in,
59
Frangipani sachet powder, 258
Frankincense, in ancient times, 19-
21
or olibanum, 176, 177
French and African geranium oils,
112, 113
oil of turpentine, 148
patchouli oil, 131
perfumers, ancient, privileges
of, 29, 30
pomades (flower pomades),
fine, 286, 287
Fruit ethers, 200-218
Fuchsine, detection of alcohol by,
69
Fumigating agents, dry, objections
to, 263, 264
balsam, 265, 266
essences and vinegars, 264-266
pastilles, powders, etc.,
262-271
lacquer, 270, 271
mode of, 262, 263
object of, 262
paper, 268
pastilles, 268-270
ordinary black, 269
red, 269
powder, ordinary, 266, 267
violet, 267
powders, 266-268
prejudice against, 262
vinegar, 266
water, 266
Funnel, separatory, 47
flERANIOL, 112
\J Geranium oil, East Indian, 112
Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turk-
ish geranium oil, 112
tincture, 235
oils, French and African, 112,
113
German curled-mint oil, 132
German oil of turpentine, 148
peppermint oil, 132, 133
Germany, manufacture of rose oil
in, from indigenous roses, 136
Glycerin cream, 332
for dentifrices, 273, 274
gelee, 332
hair tonic, 310
jelly, 332, 333
perfumed with fruit odor, 328
with rose odor, 328
Grape essence, 217
Greeks, practice of anointing the
body by the, 21
Green camomile oil, 99
Guaiacum reaction, Hager's, 78-80
Gummi rnyrrha, 172-176
resina myrrha, 172-176
Gum-resins, 155, 156
Guy de Chanlios, receipts for cos-
metics in the works of, 26
HAGER'S alcohol and sulphuric
acid test, 78
Hager's guaiacum reaction, 78-80
tannin test, 69-71
Hair, copper salts for dyeing the,
315, 316
dye, bismuth, 320
black, 321
brown, 321
copper, 322
potassium permanganate,
320
requirements of a good,
314
tannin, 321,322
Turkish, 316
walnut, 320
dyes, 314-322
double, 321,322
silver, 321
single, 319, 320
use of, in ancient Rome,
25
green walnut shells for dyeing
the, 318
henna for dyeing the, 317, 318
iron salts for dyeing the, 316
lead salts for dyeing the, 315
nitrate of silver for dyeing the,
315
oil, alpine herb, 301
burdock root, 302
INDEX.
349
Hair oil, cheap, 303,304:
fine, 302, 303
flower, 301
jasmine, 303
macassar, 302
mignonette, 302
neroli, 302
Peru, 302
Peruvian bark, 301, 302
philocome, 303
Portugal, 303
rose, 301
sultana, 304
tonka, 304
vanilla, 303
vaseline, 303
Victoria, 304
violet, 304
ylang-ylang, 303
oils, 300-304
and pomades, fats for, 284
peroxide of hydrogen for
bleaching the, 318
pomade, fine, 291
for promoting the growth
of the, 291
pomades, 285-300
according to the German
method, 288-295
coloring substances for,
286
fine French, 286, 287
foundations for, 288, 289
hair oils, and hair tonics,
hair dyes and depilato-
ries, 284-323
potassium permanganate for
dyeing the, 316
pyrogallic acid for dyeing the,
316
stain, pyrogallic, 320
tonics, 308-314
Hands, chapped, preparations for,
333, 334
wash for the, 334
Hebrews, ancient, perfume-sub-
stances known to the, 19
Heliotrope pomade, 291 , 292
sachet powder, 257
Heliotropin or piperonal, 193-195
tincture, 232
Henna-flower, use of the, for per-
fuming, 19
Henna for dyeing the hair, 317, 318
Herb pomade, 292
Herodotus on the mode of gaining
olibanum, 19, 20
Heyl's distilling apparatus, 57, 58
extracting apparatus, 54-57
Historical notice of perfumery, 17-
30
Hitchin and Mitchan lavender oil,
115
Honey almond paste, 329
water, 310
Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper
test, 75-78
Horse fat, 284, 285
Hiibl's iodine method, 80, 81
Hufeland's, Dr., tooth-powder, 280
tooth-soap, 282, 283
Huile antique & la rose, 301
au jasmin, 301
Huiles antiques, 301
Hydrogen, peroxide of, for bleach-
ing the hair, 318
TCE pomade, 290
J_ Indian balsam, white, 172
Infusion or maceration, process of,
58-60
Iodine method, Hubl's, 80, 81
test with, 74, 75
Iron salts for dyeing the hair, 316
Italy, perfumes and cosmetics in,
26,27
JAPANESE peppermint oil, 132,
J 133
Jasmin, essence de, 114
Jasmine hair oil, 303
oil or oil of jessamine, 113,
114
pomade, 292
Jessamine, oil of, or jasmine oil.
113, 114
Jockey club sachet, 257
Juniper-berry tincture, 233
Juniper odor, 265
oil, 114
KABARDIN musk, 179, 180
Kahol, 317
Karsi, 319
Kienoel, 149
Kohol, 319
Kopher, 19
350
INDEX.
Kremel's saponification test, 81,
82
Krinochrom, 322
Krummholz oil, 149
Kypros, 19
LACQUER, fumigating-, 270, 271
Lait, d'amandes amfcres, 327
Lait de lys, 328
de rose, 326, 327
virginal, 326
Lanolin pomade, 292, 293
Latschenoel, 149
Lavande Montblanc, essence de,
115
Lavender odor solid perfume, 260
oil, 115, 116
adulterations of, 116
tincture, 235
Lead salts for dyeing the hair,
315
white, 336
Leather, perfumed, 30
Lebonah, 19-21
Lederin, 286
Lemon essence, 217
grass-oil tincture, 235
oil, 116-121
conversion of oil of tur-
pentine into, 189, 190
tincture, 235
Licarioil, linaloe oil, 122
.tincture, 235
Lilac oil, 121
Lily milk, 328
of the valley sachet powder,
258
vaseline pomade, 296
Limes, oil of, 121, 122
Linaloe oil, licari oil, 122
Lip-salve, 334, 335
Lip-salves and cold creams, 331-
335
Liquid ambar, 172
paints, 340-342
rouge, 340, 341
storax, 168-171
Locock's lotion for the hair, 311
Lotion, dandruff, 312
Locock's, for the hair, 311
shampoo, 311
Lubah, 19-21
Lunar caustic for dyeing the hair,
315
MACASSAR hair oil, 302
pomade, 292
Mace oil, 124
Maceration or extraction of flow-
ers, 286, 287
or infusion, process of, 58-60
Magnesia, 336
Mandarin oil, 125, 126
Marinello's work on " Cosmetics
for Ladies," 27
Marjoram oils, 122, 123
Maumen^'s test, 82, 83
Meal, almond, 329
nut, 328
Meals and pastes, perfumed, 328-
331
MelanogSne, 322
Melon essence, 217
Menthol, 133
pungent, 260
Messina, yield of lemon oil in,
120
Methyl salicylate, 151
artificial production of,
152, 153
Mierzinski's formulae for bay rum,
313, 314
Mignonette hair oil, 302
oil, 123
pomade, 293
vaseline pomade, 296
Milk, almond, 327
lily, 328
rose, 326, 327
virginal, 326
Millefleurs fumigating pastilles,
270
Mint, curled, oil of, 132
Mirbane, oil of, 199
Mitchan and Hitchin lavender oil.
115
Monfalcone's, D., distilling appa
ratus for lemon oil, 118-120
Moschus ex vesicis, 180
Moses, the holy oil prescribed by,
21
Mouche or beauty patch, 28
Mouth- and tooth- waters, 274-277
waters and dentifrices, color-
ing substances for, 272
dentifrices, etc., 272-283
Musk, 31, 178-184
adulterations of, 183, 184
artificial, 182, 183
fumigating pastilles, 269, 270
INDEX.
351
Musk-rat, American, musk of the,
181, 182
root or sumbul-root tincture,-
231
sachet powder, 259
sac, how to open a, 180
sacs, illustrated and described,
178, 179
seed or abelmosk tincture, 230,
231
substitutes for, 181, 182
tincture, 228
Myristicin, 124
Myron, 21
Myrrh, 172-176
adulterations of, 175, 176
oil, 123, 124
tincture, 235
tincture, 230
tooth-tincture, 276
Myrrha electa, 173
in sortis, 173
vulgaris, 173
Myrrhin, 174
Myrrhol, 174
Myrtol, 123, 124
\TAIL-POWDER, 334
1> Neroli hair oil, 302
Nerolioil, adulterations of, 127,128 j
or orange-flower oil, 126- |
129
tincture, 235
petale, 127
pomade, 293
vaseline pomade, 296
New-mown hay fumigating pow-
der, 267, 268
sachet powder, 259
Nitrate of bismuth, 335, 336
of silver for dyeing the hair,
315
Nitrobenzol, 198-200
adulterations of, 199
Nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78
Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, 211-
214
Nut meal, 328
Nutmeg oils, 124, 125
ODONTINE, 275
or tooth-paste, 277, 278
paste, 278
Odor and taste, testing the, of voja-
tile oils, 66, 67
Odors, compound, 240-245
Oil, castor, determination of, in
volatile oil, 67, 68
fat, adulteration with, of vola-
tile oil, 67, 68
the holy, prescribed by Moses,
21
volatile, apparatus for deter-
mining the per-
centage of, in a
vegetable sub-
stance, 40, 41
for the distillation
of, 41-46
Planchon's procedure for
the recognition of a, 83-
86
separation of the, and
water, 46, 47
testing the odor of, 66
the taste of, 67
Oils, fat, treatment of, with ben-
zoin, 300, 301
oxygenated, behavior of, to-
wards nitroprusside of cop-
per, 76-78
perfuming of, 61, 62
volatile, 33-65
ancient mode of distilling,
apparatus for the extrac-
tion of, 48-57
characteristics of, 33, 34
concentrated, 35
detection of adulterations
of, with an oil of lower
quality, 74-83
distillation of, 39-48
division of, with reference
to the guaiacum reac-
tion, 79, 80
expression of, 36-39
extraction of, 48-58
extra strong, 35
for Cologne water, dura-
bility of, 250, 251
localities best suited for
the cultivation of flow-
ers for the production
of, 32, 33
modes of obtaining, 36-65
or essential , occurrence of,
in plants, 31
352
INDEX.
Oils, volatile, patented, 85
principal divisions of, 34
solubility of, 33
storage of, 65
testing of, 66-86
the, used in perfumery,
87-154
Ointment makers, ancient, condi-
tion of, 24, 25
rose, according to Dioscorides,
23, 24
Ointments, directions for prepar-
' \ ing, in ancient works, 23, 24
foreign, edict against, in Rome,
for the different parts of the
body used by the Athenians,
22
Oleum abietes, 149
canadensis, 149, 150
amygdalae amarae, 87-93
anisi", 93, 94
anthemidis, 99, 100
anthos, 144, 145
cajeputi, 98, 99
carui, 100, 101,
caryophylli, 108-110
cassise, 103, 104
cedri, 101
cinnamon! ceylonici, 102, 103
citri, 106, 107
eucalypti, 110, 111
australe, 110
florum aurantii, 126-129
foeniculi, 111, 112
gaultheriae, 151-153
geranii, 112, 113
iridis, 129, 130
iva ranchusa, 150, 151
juniperi, 114
laurocerasi, 101, 102
lavandulse, 115, 116
ligni rhodii, 145
eandali, 145
sassafras, 145-147
limettae, 121, 122
limonis, 116-121
macidis, 124
menthae crispae, 132
piperitse, 132-135
pulegii, 135, 136
myrtha3, 123, 134
na"phae, 126-129
neroli, 126-129
nucistae sethereum, 124
Oleum petit grain, 129
pimenta, 136
pini, 149
pumilionis, 149
resedae, 123
rosemarini, 144, 145
templinum, 149
uonae, 153, 154
Olibanum in ancient times, 19-21
or frankincense, 176, 177
tincture, 230
Opiat liauide pour les dents, 280,
281
Opopanax, 176
oil, 125
tincture, 235
tincture, 230
Orange, bitter, localities for the
cultivation of the, 126
essence, 217
flower oil, or neroli oil, 126-
129
water, 128
fumigating powder, 267
peel oil, 125
sachet powder, 259
Oriental flower fumigating essence,
265
pomade, 293
Orris-root oil, 129, 130
liquid, 257
tincture, 235
tincture, 231
Orris stearoptene, 129
PAINT, fine red, 337
ordinary red, 336, 337
red stick, 339
white, 337
liquid, 341
stick, 340
Paints, 33.5-342
fat, 341, 342
liquid, S40-342
preparation of, 337-339
pulverulent, 335, 336
solid, 336-340
use of, by the Roman ladies, 25
Palermo, yield of lemon oil in, 120
Palmarosa oil, geranium oil, Turk-
ish geranium oil, 112
Paper, fumigating, 268
Paraffine, solid perfumes with,
259, 260
INDEX.
353
Paraguay, manufacture of petit- j
grain oil in, 129
Paris, annual sale of perfumery in,
29,30
Paste, honey almond, 329
Pastes and meals, perfumed, 328-
331
and powders for the teeth,
277-283
Pastilles, fumigating, 268-270
powders, essences, etc., for j
fumigating, 262-271
Patchouli-camphor, 131
Patchouli extract, 233
leaves, 130, 131
oil, 130-132
tincture, 235
sachet powder, 258
Pate d'amandes au miel, 329
Peach essence, 217
kernels, use of, in the fabrica-
tion of bitter-almond oil, 88
Pear essence, 217
ether, 216
Penang patchouli oil, 131
Peppermint oil, adulterants of, 134,
135
oils, 132-136
American, English, and j
German, mode of dis-
tinguishing, 133, 134
Pepper, perfume-substance from,
191
Perfumed meals and pastes, 328-
331
Perfume-materials, artificial, 189-
218
for the manufacture of |
perfumery, 31-65
substances, consumption of,
by the ancient Romans, j
consumption of, by the I
early nations of the
Orient, 17
from the animal kingdom, i
178-188
Perfumeries and cosmetics in the
Middle Ages, 26, 27
Perfumer, the actual flower garden
of the, 32
what the art of the, consists
in, 219
Perfumers, French, ancient privi-
leges of, 29, 30
23
Perfumery, annual sale of, in Paris,
29, 30
historical notice of, 17-30
perfume-substances for the
manufacture of, 31-65
the volatile oils used in, 87-1 54
use of, in England, 30
Perfumes, alcoholic, 219-255
and cosmetics in Italy, 26, 27
dry, 256-261
preparation of animal fats for
the reception of, 24
solid, with paraffine, 259, 260
Peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching
the hair, 318
Peru balsam, 159-166
adulterants of, 162
oil, 161
statistics of, 162
tests for, 162-166
tincture, 229
white, 172
hair oil, 302
Peruvian balsam, white, 160, 161
bark hair oil, 301, 302
Petit-grain oil, 129
tincture, 236
Petroleum-ether, 48
as testing agent for
Peru balsam, 163
Philocome hair oil, 303
Pimento oil, or oil of allspice, 136
Pine-apple essence, 217
ether, 216
Pine-leaf oil, 149
tincture, 236
Pine odor for atomizing, 265
oil, 149
Piperate, potassium, 194
Piperiue, 194
Piperonal, how obtained, 194, 195
or heliotropin, 193-195
Piver's apparatus for maceration,
59, 60
for the absorption pro-
cess, 63, 64
Planchon's procedure for the re-
cognition of a volatile oil, 83-86
Plants, families of, richest in vola-
tile oils, 32
occurrence of volatile oils in,
31
Pliny's account of olibanum, 20, 21
" Historia naturalis," 23
Plum essence, 217
354
INDEX.
Plutarch on the extravagant use
of ointments in Rome, 22, 23
Paraffin ice pomade, 293
Poley oil, 135, 136
Pomade, apple, 289
bear's grease, 289
beef-marrow, 294
benzoin, 290
black wax, 299
blonde wax, 299
bouquet vaseline, 296
brown wax, 299, 300
castor oil, 293
cheap, 293
wax, 390
Densdorf, 290
emperor, 202
extra fine vaseline, 298
family, 290, 291
vaseline, 296
fine, 291, 294
vaseline (yellow;, 297
for promoting the growth of
the hair, 29i
heliotrope, 291, 292
herb, 292
ice, 290
jasmine, 292
lanolin, 292, 293
lily of the valley vaseline, 296
macassar, 292
mignonette, 293
vaseline, 296
neroli, 293
vaseline, 296
oriental, 293
paraffin ice, 293
Portugal, 292
vaseline, 296
princess, 293, 294
quinine, 289, 290
(imitation), 290
resin, 300
Rogers's, for producing a
beard, 294
rose, 294
wax, 299
salicylic, 294
stick, manufacture of, 298,299
strawberry, 291
tonka, 294, 295
vanilla, 295
vaseline (red), 297
(white), 297
foundations for, 296
Pomade, Victoria, 294
vaseline, 297, 2S8
violet, 295
Virginia vaseline, 297
walnut, 295
Pomades, 285-300
according to the German
method, 288-295
and hair oils, fats for, 284
coloring substances for, 286
designation of the qualities of,
219, 220
foundations for, 288, 289
resin, 298
stick, 298-300
foundations for, 298
vaseline, 295-298
wax, 298
Pommade a Pacacia, 287
i la fleur d'orauge, 287
a la rose, 287
a Ph&iotrope, 287
Portugal hair oil, 303
oil, 125
tincture, 236
pomade, 292
vaseline pomade, 296
Potassium permanganate for dye-
ing the hair, 316
hair dye, 320
piperate, 194
Poudre d'Algerine, 281, 282
de corail, 280
de riz a la rose, 329, 330
de riz a la violette, 330
de riz bouquet, 331
de riz heliotrope, 330
de riz ixora, 331
de riz muguet, 330, 331
de riz orange, 330
dentifrice, 279
Powder for coloring intensely red,
336
new-mown hay fumigating,
267, 268
orange fumigating, 267
ordinary fumigating, 266, 267
rose fumigating, 267
Powders, 335, 336
and pastes for the teeth, 277-
283
fumigating, 266-268
mixtures for, 336
pastilles, and essences, etc.,
tor fumigating, 262-271
INDEX.
355
Preston salt, 260
Princess pomade, 293, 294
Pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair,
816
hair stain, 320
QUININE pomade, 289, 290
(imitation), 290
tooth-water, 276
RASPBERRY essence, 218
Rastikopetra, 316
Recamier cream, 333
Red paint, fine, 337
ordinary, 336, 337
stick paint, 339
thyme oil, 147
Reggio, mode of manufacturing
bergamot oil in, 118
Reseda sachet powder, 258, 259
Resin pomade, 300
pomades, 298
Resins and balsams, 155-177
definition of, 155
diffusion of, in the vegetable
kingdom, 156
elementary constituents of,
155
hard, 155
soft, 155, 156
Rhazes, receipts for cosmetics in
the writings of, 26
Rhodium oil, or rosewood oil, 145
Rhusma, 322, 323
Righini's method for testing ber- j
gamot oil, 98
Rogers's pomade for producing a
beard, 294
Romans, ancient, consumption of
perfume-substances by the, 24
Rome, introduction of ointments
in, 22
Plutarch on the extravagant
use of ointments in, 22, 23
Rosa alba, 137 /
damascena, 137 is
Rose bandoline, 305
flower fumigating essence, 264
fumigating pastilles, 270
powder, 267
hair oil, 304
milk, 326, 327
oil, adulterants of, 142
Rose oil, adulteration of, in Bulga-
ria, 140
determination of sperma-
ceti in, 143, 144
insulation and determina-
tion of the stearoptene
in, 139, 140
judging the genuineness
of, 139
liquid, 139
or attar of roses, 136-144
principal localities of pro-
duction of, 136
test for, 143
used in Bulgaria, 141
tincture, 236, 237
ointment, according to Diosco-
rides, 23, 24 v
pomade, 294
wax pomade, 299
Rosemary oil, 144, 145 ^
Roses, cream of, 333
Rosewood oil, or rhodium oil, 145
Rouge, 336, 337
en feuilles, 340
extravagant use of, in France,
28,29
liquid, 340, 341
moulding of, into sticks, 339
stick, 339
Russian or Siberian castor, 185,186
musk, 179, 180
SACHET 3, la rose, 257
& la violette, 257
aux millefleurs, 258
jockey club, 257
powder, ess-bouquet, 259
Frangipani, 258
heliotrope, 257
lily of the valley, 258
musk, 259
new-mown hay, 259
orange, 259
patchouli, 258
icseJa, 258, 259
Victoria, 258
ylang-ylang, 257
powders, 256-259
Safrene, 146
Safrol, 146, 147
St. John's bread or carob, 209
Salicylic pomade, 294
Salts, smelling, 260, 261
356
INDEX.
Salve, Cyprian, 19
Sandal-wood oil, 145
tincture, 236
Saudarac, 177
Sandaraciu, 177
Saponaceous tooth-wash, 283
Saponification number, 81
test, Kremel's, 81, 82
-Sassafras oil, 145-147
Sartorius ylang-ylang oil, 154
Schiinmel & Co.'s directions for
bay rum, 313
directions for the
quantitative de-
termination of
cinnamaldehvde,
104-106
improved still, 44-
46
Separator- funnel, 47
Shampoo liquid, 311,312
lotion, 311
Siberian or Russian castor, 1 85, 186
musk, 179, 180
Silver, nitrate of, for dyeing the
hair, 315
Single hair dyes, 319, 320
Siphon still, 41, 42
Skin cosmetics, 324-328
Smelling salts, 260, 261
Soap for dentifrices, 273
Solid paints, 336-340
Solubility of volatile oils, 33
Sozodont, 275
Spanish marjoram oil, 122, 123
Spermaceti, determination of, in
rose oil, 143, 144
Spike oil, 115
Spinach extract, 239
Spirit of wine, or alcohol, detec-
tion of, in volatile oil, 68-71
Sponge-process for obtaining lemon
oil, 116, 117
Stahl's tooth-tincture, 276
Star anise oil, 94, 95
Stearoptene, 33
of rose oil, 138
Stick paint, white, 340
pomade, manufacture of, 298,
299
pomades, 298-300
foundations for, 298
rouge, 339
Still, for direct steam, 43, 44
improved, 44-46
Still, ordinary, conversion of, into
use with steam, 42, 43
siphon, 41, 42
i Stohman's test for oil of cloves,
109
I Storax, 168-172
American, 172
in grains, 171
liquid, 168-171
adulterations of, 170, 171
ordinary, 171, 172
tincture, 230
j Strawberry essence, 218
ether, 216
pomade, 291
Styracin, 170
Styrax calamitus, 171, 172
vulgaris, 171, 172
Styrol, 169, 170
Sultana hair oil, 304
Sumbul root, or musk-root tinc-
ture, 231
TANNIN hair dye, 321,322
Taste and odor, testing the,
of volatile oils, 66, 67
Tea hair tonic, 310, 311
Teinture Chinoise (Kohol), 319
Orientale (Karsi),319
Templin oil, 149
Terpenes, 35, 36
adulterations of volatile oil
with, 73
Terpilene, 189, 190
Testing volatile oils, 66-86
Theophrastus's work " On Per-
fumes," 23
Thibet or Oriental musk, 178, 179
Thymene, 147
Thyme oil, 147, 148
from the field thy me, 147,
148
Thymol. 147, 273
tooth-paste, 278
tooth-powder, 279
tooth-water, 274
j Tincture, ambergris, 229
angelica-root, 231
balm-oil, 234
basil-oil, 234
benzoin, 229
bergamot-oil, 234
bitter almond-oil, 234
canango-oil, 234
INDEX.
357
Tincture, cassia-oil, 235
castor, 229
cedar-oil, 235
cinnamon-oil, 235
citronella-oil, 235
civet, 228
clove-oil, 235
cumarin, 232
eucalyptus-oil, 235
geranium-oil, 235
heliotropin, 232
juniper-berry, 233
lavender-oil, 235
lemon-grass oil, 235
lemon-oil, 235
licari-oil, 235
musk, 228
root or sumbul-root, 231
seed or abelmosk, 230, 231
myrrh, 230
oil, 235
neroli-oil, 235
olibanum, 230
opopanax, 230
oil, 235
orris-root, 231
oil, 235
patchouli-oil, 235
Peru-balsam, 229
petit-grain-oil, 236
pine-leaf-oil, 236
Portugal -oil, 236
rose-oil, 236, 237
sandal- wood-oil, 236
storax, 230
tola-balsam, 229, 230
tonka-bean, 231, 232
vanilla, 232
vanillin, 232
verbena-oil, 236
vitivert, 233
oil, 236
wintergreen-oil, 236
ylang-ylang-oil, 236
Tinctures and extracts, 225-237
apparatus for the preparation >
of, 226, 227
Toilet articles, golden age for, in !
France, 27-29
arts of the, in ancient times, 18 i
introduction of the arts of the, j
into France, 27
vinegar, 326
Tolu balsam, 166-168
new variety of, 167, 168
Tolu balsam, tincture, 229, 230
Toluene, 166, 167
Tonka beans, 191, 192
bean tincture, 231, 232
hair oil, 304
pomade, 294, 295
Tonkin musk, 178, 179
characteristics of, 180, 181
Tooth- and mouth-waters, 274-277
paste or odontine, 277, 278
pastes and tooth-powders, 277-
283
powder, Dr. Hufeland's, 280
powders and tooth-pastes, 277-
283
preparation of, 279
soap, 283
Dr. Hufeland's, 282, 283
tincture, Dr. Stahl's, 276
tinctures, use of, 276, 277
Trotula, works of, 26
Turkish geranium oil, palmarosa
oil, geranium oil, 112
hair dye, 316
Turpentine, oil of, 148-150
conversion of, into
lemon oil, 189, 190
TTNITED STATES, adaptation of
U some districts of, for the culti-
vation of plants, 33
VALERIAN 1C ether, or arnyl va-
lerate, 214-216
ethyl ether, 216
Vanilla, 195, 196
hair oil, 303
pomade, 295
tincture, 232
Vanillin, 195-198
adulteration of, 198
preparation of, 196, 197
tincture, 232
Vaseline cold cream, 331
hair oil, 303
pomade, extra fine, 298
fine (yellow), 297
(red)", 297
(white), 297
pomades, 295-298
foundations for, 296
Venetian oil of turpentine, 148
Verbena oil, 150
tincture, 236
Vetiver oil, or vitivert oil, 150, 151
358
INDEX.
Victoria hair oil, 304
pomade, 294
sachet powder, 258
vaseline pomade, 297, 298
Vinaigre de Bully, 324
de toilette, 325
de toilette a 1'heliotrope, 325
de toilette a la rose, 324
de toilette & la violette, 324
de toilette orange, 325
Vinegar, -aromatic, 325, 326
fumigating, 266
toilet, 326
Vinegars and essences, fumigating,
264-266
Violet-flower fumigating essence,
265
Violet fumigating pastilles, 270
powder/267
hair oil, 304
mouth-water, 275
oil of, 150
pomade, 295
tooth-powder, 279
Virginal milk, 326
Virginia vaseline pomade, 297
Vitivert-oil tincture, 236
Vitivert, or vetiver oil, 150, 151
tincture, 233
Volatile oil, apparatus for deter-
mining the percentage
of, in a vegetable sub-
stance, 40, 41
apparatus for the distil-
lation of, 41-46
Planchon's procedure
for the recognition of
a, 83-86
separation of the, and
46,47
testing the odor of, 66
the taste of, 67
oils, 33-65
ancient method of distill-
ing, 24
apparatus for the extrac-
tion of, 48-57
characteristics of, 33 r 34
concentrated, 35
detection of adulterations
of, with an oil of lower
quality, 74-83
distillation of, 39-48
division of, with reference
to the guaiacum reac-
tion, 79, 80
Volatile oils, expression of, 36-39
extraction of, 48-58
extra strong, 35
for Cologne water, dura-
bility of, 250, 251
localities best suited for
the cultivation of flowers
for the production of, 32,
33
modes of obtaining, 36-65
patented, 35
principal divisions of, 34
solubility of, 33
storage of, 65
testing of, 66-86
the, used in perfumery,
87-154
or essential oils, occurrence of,
in plants, 31
WALNUT hair dye, 320
pomade, 295
shells, green, for dyeing the
hair, 318
Washes, 326-328
Wash for the hands, 334
Water, fumigating, 266
separation of the, and oil, 4(5,
47
Wax pomade, cheap, 300
pomades, 298
White lead, 336
liquid paint, 341
paint, 337
rose solid perfume, 259
smelling salts, 260, 261
stick paint, 340
thyme oil, 147
tooth-powder, 280
Williams, F. R. , utilization of Mau-
mene's test by, 82, 83
Wintergreen oil, 151-153
adulteration of, 153
tincture, 236
YLANG-YLANG hair oil, 303
oil, 153, 154
tincture, 236
sachet powder, 257
I Yunnan musk, 178, 179
7IBETHUM, 184, 185
h Zinc white, 336
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