The prairie traveler : a hand-book for overland expeditions : with illustrations, and intineraries of the principal routes between the Mississippi and the Pacific, and a map

THE

PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

THE

PRAIRIE TRAVELER,

A HAND-BOOK

F< iR

OVERLAND EXPEDITIONS.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS, AND ITINERARIES OF

THE PRINCIPAL ROUTES BETWEEN THE

MISSISSIPPI AND THE PACIFIC,

AND A MAP.

BY RANDOLPH B. MARCY,

CAPTAIN V. 8. AHMY.
(NOW GENERAL MARCY, CHIEF OF STAFF, AIJMY OF THE POTOMAC.)

EDITED (WITH NOTES) BY

RICHARD F. BURTON, F.R.G.S.,

ETC.
PUBLISHED IN THE UNITED STATICS BY AUTHORITY OF THE WAR DEPARTMENT.

LONDON:
TRUBNER AND CO., GO, PATERNOSTER ROW.

1863.

•3

LONDON-
PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER AND CO.
FINSBURY CIRCUS.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Tlie different Routes to California and Oregon. — Their respective
Advantages. — Organization of Companies. — Elections of Cap
tains. — Wagons and Teams. — Relative Merits of Mules and
Oxen. — Stores and Provisions. — How packed. — Desiccated and
canned Vegetables. — Pemuiican. — Antiscorbutics. — Cold Flour. —
Substitutes in case of necessity. — Amount of Supplies. — Clothing.
Camp Equipage. — Arms Page 1

CHAPTER II.

Marching. — Treatment of Animals. — Water. — Different methods of
finding and purifying it. — Journadas. — Methods of crossing them.
— Advance and Rear Guards. — Selection of Camp. — Sanitary Con
siderations. — Dr. Jackson's Report. — Picket Guards. — Stampedes.
— How to prevent them. — Corraling Wagons . . . .24

CHAPTER III.

Repairing broken Wagons. — Fording Rivers. — Quicksand. — Wagon
Boats.- — Bull Boats. — Crossing Packs. — Swimming Animals. —
Marching with loose Horses. — Herding Mules. — Best methods of
Marching. — Herding and guarding Animals. — Descending Moun
tains. — Storms. — Northers 43

CHAPTER IV.

Packing. — Saddles. — Mexican Method. — Madrina, or Bell-mare. —
Attachment of the Mule illustrated. — Best Method of Packing. —
Hoppling Animals. — Selecting Horses and Mules. — Grama and
Bunch Grass. — European Saddles. — California Saddle. — Saddle
Wounds. — Alkali. — Flies. — Colic. — Rattlesnake Bites. — Cures for
the Bite 60

498004

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

Bivouacs. — Tente d'Abri. — Gutta-percha Knapsack. — Tent. — Co-
manche Lodge. — Sibley Tent. — Camp Furniture. — Litters. — Rapid
Traveling. — Fuel. — Making Fires. — Fires on the Prairies. — Jerking
Meat. — Making Lariats. — Making Caches. — Disposition of Fire
arms. — Colt's Revolvers. — Gun Accidents. — Trailing. — Indian
Sagacity 86

CHAPTER VI.

Guides and Hunters. — Dela wares and Shawnees. — Khebirs. — Black
Beaver. — Anecdotes. — Domestic Troubles. — Lodges. — Similarity
of Prairie Tribes to the Arabs. — Method of making War. — Track
ing and pursuing Indians. — Method of attacking them. — Tele
graphing by Smokes 121

CHAPTER VII.

Hunting. — Its Benefits to the Soldier. — Buffalo. — Deer. — Antelope.
— Bear.— Big-horn, or Mountain Sheep. — Their Habits, and Hints
upon the best Methods of hunting them . . . .161

ITINERARIES. . 177

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Map of Overland Routes at end of volume.

Keep Away ! Frontispiece.

Diagram for Measurements ....... 48

Grimsley's Pack-saddle . . . . . . . .61

California Saddle . . .76

Half-faced Camp 87

Conical Bivouac ......... 88

Tent Knapsack 90

SibleyTent 93

Camp Chairs 95

Camp Table— Field Cot 96

Field Cot — Camp Bureau 97

Mess-chest 98

Horse-tracks .117

PREFACE.

A QUARTER of a century's experience in frontier life,
a great portion of which has been occupied in exploring
the interior of our continent, and in long marches where
I have been thrown exclusively upon my own resources,
far beyond the bounds of the populated districts, and
where the traveler must vary his expedients to surmount
the numerous obstacles which the nature of the country
continually reproduces, has shewn me under what great
disadvantages the "voyageur" labors for want of a timely
initiation into those minor details of prairie- craft, which,
however apparently unimportant in the abstract, are sure,
upon the plains, to turn the balance of success for or
against an enterprise.

This information is so varied, and is derived from so
many different sources, that I still find every new expe
dition adds substantially to my practical knowledge, and
am satisfied that a good Prairie Manual will be for the
young traveler an addition to his equipment of inappreci
able value.

With such a book in his hand, he will be able, in dim-
cult circumstances, to avail himself of the matured expe
rience of veteran travelers, and thereby avoid many
otherwise unforeseen disasters; while, during the ordinary
routine of marching, he will greatly augment the sum of
his comforts, avoid many serious losses, and enjoy a com
parative exemption from doubts and anxieties. He will
feel himself a master spirit in the wilderness he traverses,

Xll PREFACE.

and not the victim of every new combination of circum
stances which nature affords or fate allots, as if to try his
skill and prowess.

I have waited for several years, with the confident
expectation that some one more competent than myself
would assume the task, and give the public the desired
information ; but it seems that no one has taken sufficient
interest in the subject to disseminate the benefits of his
experience in this way. Our frontier-men, although brave
in council and action, and possessing an intelligence that
quickens in the face of danger, are apt to feel shy of the
pen. They shun the atmosphere of the student's closet ;
their sphere is in the free and open wilderness. It is not
to be wondered at, therefore, that to our veteran borderer
the field of literature should remain a "terra incognita."
It is our army that unites the chasm between the culture
of civilization in the aspect of science, art, and social re
finement, and the powerful simplicity of nature. On leaving
the Military Academy, a majority of our officers are at
tached to the line of the army, and forthwith assigned to
duty upon . our remote and extended frontier, where the
restless and warlike habits of the nomadic tribes, render
the soldier's life almost as unsettled as that of the savages
themselves.

A regiment is stationed to-day on the borders of tropical
Mexico ; to-morrow, the war whoop, borne on a gale from
the northwest, compels its presence in the frozen latitudes
of Puget's Sound. The very limited numerical strength
of our army, scattered as it is over a vast area of territory,
necessitates constant changes of station, long and toilsome
marches, a promptitude of action, and a tireless energy
and self-reliance, that can only be acquired through an

PREFACE. Xlll

intimate acquaintance with the sphere in which we act and
move.

The education of our officers at the Military Academy
is, doubtless, well adapted to the art of civilised warfare,
but cannot familiarise them with the diversified details of
border service ; and they often, at the outset of their mili
tary career, find themselves compelled to improvise new
expedients to meet novel emergencies.

The life of the wilderness is an art as well as that of the
city or court, and every art subjects its votaries to disci
pline in preparing them for a successful career in its pur
suit. The Military Art, as enlarged to meet all the
requirements of border service — the savage in his wiles, or
the elements in their caprices — embraces many other special
arts which have hitherto been almost ignored; and results
which experience and calculation should have guaranteed,
have been improvidently staked upon favorable chances.

The main object at which I have aimed in the following-
pages, has been to explain and illustrate, as clearly and suc
cinctly as possible, the best methods of performing the
duties devolving upon the prairie traveler, so as to meet
their contingencies under all circumstances, and thereby to
endeavor to establish a more uniform system of marching
and campaigning in the Indian country.

I have also furnished itineraries of most of the principal
routes that have been traveled across the plains, taken
from the best and most reliable authorities ; and I have
given some information concerning the habits of the
Indians and wild animals that frequent the prairies, with
the secrets of the hunter's and warrior's strategy, which
I have endeavoured to impress more forcibly upon the
reader by introducing illustrative anecdote.

XIV. PREFACE.

I take great pleasure in acknowledging my indebtedness
to several officers of the Topographical Engineers, and of
other corps of the army, for the valuable information I
have obtained from their official reports regarding the
different routes embraced in the itineraries ; and to these
gentlemen I beg leave very respectfully to dedicate my
book.

EDITOR'S PREFACE.

THE object of this little Volume, as the author has ex
plained, is to initiate the novice into the mysteries of
Prairie-craft. I have been induced to re-edit it, at the
instance of my friend Mr. Triibner — not by the vain ex
pectation of improving upon " a quarter of a century's
experience in (American) frontier life," and the work of
an accomplished woodsman — but with the humble hope
that a little collateral knowledge gathered in other lands,
may add variety, and perhaps something of value to what
is at present our best Handbook of Western Field Sports.
When that " late lamented institution," the once United
States, shall have passed away, and when, after this detest
able and fratricidal war — the most disgraceful to human
nature that civilization ever witnessed, — the New World
shall be restored to order and tranquility, our shikaris
will not forget, that a single fortnight of comfortable travel
suffices to transport them from fallow-deer and pheasant-
shooting to the haunts of the bison and the grizzly bear.
There is little chance of these animals being " improved
off" the Prairies, or even of their becoming rare during
the life-time of the present generation; those who love noble
game may thus save themselves a journey to monotonous
India or to pestilential Africa.

The English reader will be disposed to criticise a book
which tells so much of what has been already told, and
well told too, in the "Art of Travel," by Mr. Francis
Galton. My belief is, that the more publications of the
kind the better. Sad experience in the Crimea, proves that

XVI. PREFACE.

were the subject compulsorily rendered a part of military
studies, it would contribute not a little to the efficiency of
the service. Men would not then pine over " green coffee,"
with tons of bones lying around them waiting to become
bonfires. They would not starve upon half-rations, nor
reduce them to a quarter by injudicious management and
an ignorance touching soup.

I have not taken liberties with the gallant author's
style or order of chapters. He has retained all such
naivetes as " traveler," " cantel," " canvas," " woolen,"
"wagon," "segar," and " give out," — Anglice " give in."
He has been left to indulge in the "Ay-merican" as much
as he pleases. My work has been confined to notes, which,
for the reader's satisfaction, I have marked ED., and for
which I am wholly responsible. They are mostly drawn
from my last study — " The City of the Saints, and Across
the Rocky Mountains to California."

I venture, however, to solicit attention to two points.
The first is the improved form of carbine shell. The second
is the organized pantomimic practice, by which the Worth.
American Aborigines express themselves. It is my hope,
presently, to produce a system of hand-language, with
which, assisted by some 100 words, any man of average
abilities shall make himself understood in any country
after a week's study. Such a contrivance would be most
useful in Africa, where within fifty miles, one meets with
four or five different dialects.

Nothing remains now but to make my salam to the
reader, and to conclude with a quotation from Southey :—

" Go, little book, from this my solitude !
" I cast thee on the waters — go thy ways !"
FERNANDO Po.
1st June, 1862.

THE PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

CHAPTER I.

The different Routes to California and Oregon. — Their respective
Advantages. — Organization of Companies. — Elections of Cap
tains. — Wagons and Teams. — Relative Merits of Mules and Oxen. —
Stores and Provisions.— How packed. — Desiccated and canned
Vegetables.— Pemmican. — Anti-scorbutics. — Cold Flour. — Sub
stitutes in case of Necessity. — Amount of Supplies. — Clothing. —
Camp Equipage. — Arms.

ROUTES TO CALIFORNIA AND OREGON.

EMIGRANTS or others desiring to make the overland
journey to the Pacific should bear in mind, that there are
several different routes which may be traveled with wagons,
each having its advocates in persons directly or indirectly
interested in attracting the tide of emigration and travel
over them.

Information concerning these routes coming from
strangers living or owning property near them, from agents
of steam-boats or railways, or from other persons con
nected with transportation companies, should be received
with great caution, and never without corroborating evi
dence from disinterested sources.

There is no doubt that each one of these roads has its
advantages and disadvantages ; but a judicious selection
must depend chiefly upon the following considerations,
namely, the locality from whence the individual is to
take his departure, the season of the year when he desires
to commence his journey, the character of his means of

B

Z PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

transpoi tation, mid the point upon the Pacific coast that he
wishes to reach.

Persons living in the Northeastern States can, with
about equal facility and dispatch, reach the eastern ter
minus of any one of the routes they may select by means
of public transport. And, as animals are much cheaper
upon the frontier than in the Eastern States, they should
purchase their teams at or near the point where the over
land journey is to commence.

Those living in the Northwestern States having their
own teams, and wishing to go to any point north of San
Francisco, will of course make choice of the route which
takes its departure from the Missouri River.

Those who live in the middle Western States, having
their own means of transportation, and going to any point
upon the Pacific coast, should take one of the middle
routes.*

Others, who reside in the extreme Southwest, and
whose destination is south of San Francisco, should travel
the southern road running through Texas, which is the only
one practicable for comfortable winter travel. The grass
upon a great portion of this route is green during the
entire winter, and snow seldom covers it. • This road leaves
the Gulf coast at Powder-horn, on Montagorda Bay, which
point is difficult of access by land from the north, but
may be reached by steamers from New Orleans five times
a week.

There are stores at Powder-horn and Indianola where
the traveler can obtain most of the articles necessary for
his journey, but I would recommend him to supply him
self before leaving New Orleans with everything he
requires with the exception of animals, which he will find
cheaper in Texas.

This road has received a large amount of travel since
1849, is well tracked and defined, and, excepting about
twenty miles of " Hog-wallow Prairie " near Powder-horn,

* In a detailed account of these routes I must refer the reader to
Chap, ii., City of the Saints ; and for an Itinerary, to No. iv. in the
list at the end of this volume.— ED.

ROUTES TO CALIFORNIA AND OREGON. 3

it is an excellent road for carriages and wagons. It passes
through a settled country for 250 miles, and within this
section supplies can be had at reasonable rates.

At Victoria and San Antonio many fine stores will be
found, well supplied with large stocks of goods, embracing
all the articles the traveler will require.

• The next route to the north is that over which the semi-
weekly mail to California passes, and which, for a great
portion of the way to New Mexico, I traveled and recom
mended in 1849. This road leaves the Arkansas River at
Fort Smith, to which point steamers run during the
seasons of high water in the winter and spring.

Supplies of all descriptions necessary for the overland
journey may be procured at Fort Smith, or at Yan Buren
on the opposite side of the Arkansas, Horses and cattle
are cheap here. The road, on leaving Fort Smith, passes
through the Choctaw and Chickasaw country for 180
miles, then crosses Red River by ferry-boat at Preston,
and runs through the border settlements of northern
Texas for 150 miles, within which distances supplies may
be procured at moderate prices.

This road is accessible to persons desiring to make the
entire journey with their own transportation from Tennessee
or Mississippi, by crossing the Mississippi River at Mem
phis or Helena, passing Little Rock, and thence through
Washington Country, intersecting the road at Preston.
It may also be reached by taking steamers up Red River
to Shreveport or Jefferson, from either of which places
there a?e roads running through a populated country, and
intersecting the Fort Smith road near Preston.

This road also unites with the San Antonio road at El
Paso, and from that point they pass together over the
mountains to Fort Yuma and to San Francisco in Cali
fornia.

Another road leaves Fort Smith and runs up the south
side of the Canadian River to Santa Fe and Albuquerque
in New Mexico.

This route is set down upon most of the maps of the
present day as having been discovered and explored by

4 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

various persons, but my own name seems to have been
carefully excluded from the list. Whether this omission
has been intentional or not, I leave for the authors to de
termine. I shall merely remark, that I had the command
and entire direction of an expedition which in 1849 dis
covered, explored, located, and marked out this identical
wagon road from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe, New
Mexico, and that this road, for the greater portion of the
distance, is the same that has been since recommended for
a Pacific railway.

This road, near Albuquerque, unites with Captain
Whipple's and Lieutenant Beall's roads to California.

Another road, which takes its departure from Fort
Smith and passes through the Cherokee country, is called
the " Cherokee Trail." It crosses Grand River at Fort
Gibson, and runs a little north of west to the Verdigris
River, thence up the valley of this stream on the north
side for 80 miles, when it crosses the river, and, taking a
northwest course, strikes the Arkansas river near old Fort
Mann, on the Santa Fe trace ; thence it passes near the
base of Pike's Peak, and follows down Cherry Creek from
its source to its confluence with the South Platte, and from
thence over the mountains into Utah, and on to California
via Fort Bridger and Salt Lake City.

For -persons who desire to go from the Southern States
to the gold diggings in the vicinity of Cherry Creek, this
route is shorter by some 300 miles than that from Fort
Smith via Fort Leaven worth. It is said to be an excellent
road, and well supplied with the requisites for encamping.
It has been traveled by large parties of California emi
grants for several years, and is well tracked and defined.

The grass upon all the roads leaving Fort Smith is
sufficiently advanced to afford sustenance to animals by
the first of April, and from this time until winter sets in
it is abundant. The next route on the north leaves the
Missouri River at Westport, Leavenworth City, Atcheson,
or from other towns above, between either of which points
and St. Louis steamers ply during the entire summer
season.

ROUTES TO CALIFORNIA AND OREGON. 5

The necessary outfit of supplies can always be procured
at any of the starting-points on the Missouri River at
moderate rate>.

This is the great emigrant route from Missouri to Cali
fornia and Oregon, over which so many thousands have
traveled within the past few years. The track is broad,
well worn, and cannot be mistaken. It has received the
major part of the Mormon emigration, and was traversed
by the army in its march to Utah in 1857.

At the point where this road crosses the South Platte
River, Lieutenant Bryan's road branches off to the left,
leading through Bridger's Pass, and thence to Fort Brid-
ger. The Fort Kearney route to the golden region near
Pike's Peak also leaves the emigrant road at this place
and runs up the South Platte.

From Fort Bridger there are two roads that may be
traveled with wagons in the direction of California ; one
passing Salt Lake City, and the other running down Bear
River to Soda Springs, intersecting the Salt Lake City
road at the City of Rocks. Near Soda Springs the Oregon
road turns to the right, passing Fort Hall, and thence
down Snake River to Fort Wall ah -Wallah. Unless tra
velers have business in Salt Lake Valley, I would advise
them to take the Bear River route, as it is much shorter,
and better in every respect. The road, on leaving the
Missouri River, passes for 150 miles through a settled
country where grain can be purchased cheap, and there
are several stores in this section where most of the articles
required by travelers can be obtained.

Many persons who have had much experience in prairie-
traveling prefer leaving the Missouri River in March or
April, and giving grain to their animals until the new
grass appears. The roads become muddy and heavy after
the spring rains set in, and by starting out early the worst
part of the road will be passed over before the ground be
comes wet and soft. This plan, however, should never be
attempted unless the animals are well supplied with grain,
and kept in good condition. They will eat the old grass

O PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

in the spring, but it does not, in this climate, as in Utah
and New Mexico, afford them sufficient sustenance.

The grass, after the first of May, is good and abundant
upon this road as far as the South Pass, from whence there
is a section of about fifty miles where it is scarce ; there is
also a scarcity upon the desert beyond the sink of the
Humboldt. As large numbers of cattle pass over the road
annually, they soon consume all the grass in these barren
localities, and such as pass late in the season are likely to
suffer greatly, and oftentimes perish from starvation.
When I came over the road in August, 1858, I seldom
found myself out of sight of dead cattle for 500 miles
along the road, and this was an unusually favorable year
for grass, and before the main body of animals had passed
for that season.

Upon the head of the Sweetwater River, and west of
the South Pass, alkaline springs are met with, which are
exceedingly poisonous to cattle and horses. They can
readily be detected by the yellowish-red color of the grass
growing around them. Animals should never be allowed
to graze near them or to drink the water.

ORGANIZATION OF COMPANIES.

After a particular route has been selected to make the
journey across the plains, and the requisite number have
arrived at the eastern terminus, their first business should
be to organize themselves into a company and elect a com
mander. The company shoidd be of sufficient magnitude
to herd and guard animals, and for protection against
Indians.

From fifty to seventy men, properly armed and equipped,
will be enough for these purposes, and any greater immber
only makes the movements of the party more cumbersome
and tardy.

In the selection of a captain, good judgment, integrity
of purpose, and practical experience are the essential re
quisites, and these are indispensable to the harmony and
consolidation of the association. His duty should be to

ORGANIZATION OF COMPANIES. 7

direct the order of march, the time of starting and halt
ing, to select the camps, detail and give orders to guards,
and, indeed, to control and superintend all the movements
of the company.

v An obligation should then be drawn up and signed by
all the members of the association, wherein each one
should bind himself to abide in all cases by the orders and
decisions of the captain, and to aid him by every means
in his power in the execution of his duties ; and they
should also obligate themselves to aid each other, so as to
make the individual interest of each member the common
concern of the whole company. To ensure this, a fund
should be raised for the purchase of extra animals to supply
the place of those which may give out or die on the road ;
and if the wagon or team of a particular member should
fail and have to be abandoned, the company should obli
gate themselves to transport his luggage, and the captain
should see that he has his share of transportation equal
with any other member. Thus it will be made the interest
of every member of the company to watch over and pro
tect the property of others as well as his own.

In case of failure on the part of any one to comply with
the obligations imposed by the articles of agreement after
they have been duly executed, the company should, of
course, have the power to punish the delinquent member,
and, if necessary, exclude him from all the benefits of the
association.

On such a journey as this, there is much to interest and
amuse one who is fond of picturesque scenery, and of wild
life in its most primitive aspect, yet no one should attempt
it without anticipating many rough knocks and much hard
labor ; every man must expect to do his share of duty
faithfully and without a murmur.

On long and arduous expeditions, men are apt to become
irritable and ill-natured, and oftentimes fancy they have
more labor imposed upon them than their comrades, and
that the person who directs their march is partial towards
his favorites, etc. That man who exercises the greatest
forbearance under such circumstances, who is cheerful,

8 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

slow to take up quarrels, and endeavours to reconcile diffi
culties among his companions, is deserving of all praise,
and will, without doubt, contribute largely to the success
and comfort of an expedition.

The advantages of an association such as I have men
tioned are manifestly numerous. The animals can be
herded together and guarded by the different members of
the company in rotation, thereby securing to all the oppor
tunities of sleep and rest. Besides, this is the only way
to resist depredations of the Indians, and to prevent their
stampeding and driving off animals ; and much more effi
ciency is secured in every respect, especially in crossing
streams, repairing roads, etc.

Unless a systematic organization be adopted, it is im
possible for a party of any magnitude to travel in company
for any great length of time, and for all the members to
agree upon the same arrangements in marching, camp
ing, etc. I have several times observed, where this has
been attempted, that discords and dissensions, sooner or
later arose, which invariably resulted in breaking up and
separating the company.

When a captain has once been chosen, he should be
sustained in all his decisions, unless he commit some mani
fest outrage, when a majority of the company can always
remove him, and put a more competent man in his place.
Sometimes men may be selected, who, upon trial, do not
come up to the anticipations of those who have placed
them in power, and other men will exhibit, during the
march, more capacity. Under these circumstances, it will
not be unwise to make a change, the first election having
been distinctly provisional.*

WAGONS AND TEAMS.

A company having been organized, its first interest is to
procure a proper outfit of transportation, and supplies for
the contemplated journey.

* Mr. W. Kelly's California presents by far the most life-like and
instructive picture of an organized Caravan March across the
Prairies. — ED.

WAGONS AND TEAMS. 9

Wagons should be of the simplest possible construction
— strong, light, and made of well-seasoned timber, especially
the wheels, as the atmosphere, in the elevated and arid
region over which they have to pass, is so exceedingly dry
during the summer months, that unless the wood- work is
thoroughly seasoned, they will require constant repairs to
prevent them from falling to pieces.

Wheels made of the bois-d'arc, or Osage orange-wood,
are the best for the plains, as they shrink but little, and
seldom want repairing. As, however, this wood is not
easily procured in the Northern States, white oak answers
a very good purpose if well seasoned.

Spring wagons made in Concord, New Hampshire, are
used to transport passengers and the mails upon some of
the routes across the plains, and they are said, by those
who have used them, to be much superior to any others.
They are made of the close-grained oak that grows in a
high northern latitude, and is well seasoned.

The pole of the wagon should have a joint where it
enters the hounds, to prevent the weight from coming
upon it and breaking the hounds in passing short and
abrupt holes in the road.

The perch or coupling-pole should be shifting or mov
able, as, in the event of the loss of a wheel, an axle, or
other accident^ rendering it necessary to abandon the wa
gon, a temporary cart may be constructed out of the
remaining portion. The tires should be examined just
before commencing the journey, and, if not perfectly
snug, reset.

One of the chief causes of accidents to carriages upon
the plain arises from the nuts coming off from the numerous
bolts that secure the running gearing. To prevent this,
the ends of all the bolts should be rivetted ; it is seldom
necessary to take them off, and when this is required the
ends of the bolts may easily be filed away.

Wagons with six mules should never, on a long journey
over the prairies, be loaded with over 2000 pounds, unless
grain is transported, when an additional thousand pounds
may be taken, provided it is fed out daily to the team.

10 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

When grass constitutes the only forage, 2000 pounds is
deemed a sufficient load. I regard our government wagons
as unnecessarily heavy for six mules. There is sufficient
material in them to sustain a burden of 4000 pounds, but
they are seldom loaded with more than half that weight.
Every wagon should be furnished with substantial bows
and double Osnaburg covers, to protect its contents from
the sun and weather.

There has been much discussion regarding the relative
merits of mules and oxen for prairie traveling, and the
question is yet far from being settled. Upon good firm
roads, in a populated country, where grain can be procured,
I should unquestionably give the preference to mules, as
they travel faster, and endure the heat of summer much
better than oxen ; and if the journey be not over 1000
miles, and the grass abundant, even without grain, I think
mules would preferable. But when the march is to extend
1500 or 2000 miles, or over a rough sandy or muddy road,
I believe young oxen will endure better than mules ; they
will, if properly managed, keep in better condition, and
perform the journey in an equally brief space of lime.
Besides, they are much more economical, a team of six
mules costing six hundred dollars, while an eight-ox team
only costs upon the frontier about two hundred dollars.
Oxen are much less liable to be stampeded and driven off
by Indians, and can be pursued and overtaken by horse
men ; and, finally, they can, if necessary, be used for beef.

In Africa oxen are used as saddle animals, and it is said
that they perform good service in this way. This will
probably be regarded by our people as a very undignified
and singular method of locomotion, but, in the absence of
any other means of transportation upon a long journey, a
saddle- ox might be found serviceable.

Andcrsson, in his work on South-western Africa, says :
"A short strong stick, of peculiar shape, is forced through
the cartilage of the nose of the ox, and to either end of
this stick is attached (in bridle fashion) a tough leathern
thong. From the extreme tenderness of the nose he is
now more easily managed." " Hans presented me with

WAGONS AND TEAMS. ,Q

an ox called < Spring,' which I afterwards rode up wai^
of 2000 miles. On the day of our departure he mounted
us all on oxen ; and a curious sight it was to see some
of the men take their seats who had never before
ridden on ox-back. It is impossible to guide an ox as one
would guide a horse ; for in the attempt to do so you would
instantly jerk the stick out of his nose, which at once de
prives you of every control over the beast ; but by pulling
both sides of the bridle at the same time, and toward the
side you wish him to take, he is easily managed.* Your
seat is not less awkward and difficult ; for the skin of the
ox, unlike that of the horse, is loose, and, notwithstanding
your saddle may be tightly girthed, you keep rocking to
and fro like a child in a cradle. A few days, however,
enables a person to acquire a certain steadiness ; and long
habit will do the rest."

" Ox- traveling, when once a man becomes accustomed
to it, is not so disagreeable as might be expected, particu
larly if one succeeds in obtaining a tractable animal. On
emergencies, an ox can be made to proceed at a tolerably
quick pace ; for, though his walk is only about three miles
an hour at an average, he may be made to perform double
that distance in the same time. Mr. Galton once accom
plished twenty-four miles in four hours, and that, too,
through heavy sand I"

Cows will be found very useful upon long journeys when
the rate of travel is slow, as they furnish milk, and in
emergencies they may be worked in wagons. I once saw
a small cow yoked beside a large ox, and driven about six
hundred miles attached to a loaded wagon, and she per
formed her part equally well with the ox. It has been by
no means an unusual thing for emigrant travelers to work
cows in their teams.f

* A ring instead of the stick put through the cartilage of the nose,
would obviate this difficulty. — AUTHOR.

In the use of this ring I perfectly disagree with the Author. It
would often be torn away from the nose by the sage and other tough
growths of the Prairies. — ED.

t Englishmen, as well as Americans, deride the working of cows

10 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

"W^ The inhabitants of Pembina, on Red River, work a
single ox harnessed in shafts like a horse, and they trans
port a thousand pounds in a rude cart made entirely of
wood, without a particle of iron. One man drives and
takes the entire charge of eight or ten of these teams upon
long journeys. This is certainly a very economical method
of transportation.

STORES AND PROVISIONS.

Supplies for a march should be put up in the most
secure, compact, and portable shape.

Bacon should be packed in strong sacks of a hundred
pounds to each ; or, in very hot climates, put in boxes and
surrounded with bran, which in a great measure prevents
the fat from melting away.

If pork be used, in order to avoid transporting about
. forty per cent, of useless weight, it should be taken out of
the barrels and packed like the bacon ; then so placed in
the bottom of the wagons as to keep it cool. The pork, if
well cured, will keep several months in this way, but
bacon is preferable.

Flour should be packed in stout double canvas sacks
well sewed, a hundred pounds in each sack.

Butter may be preserved by boiling it thoroughly, and
skimming off the scum as it rises to the top until it is
quite clear like oil.* It is then placed in tin canisters
and soldered up. This mode of preserving butter has been
adopted in the hot climate of southern Texas, and it is

in trains; and they are wrong. Cows, like mares and she-camels get
through hard journeys ; they also supply milk — no small advantage
to the Prairie Traveller. In Africa, 1 used " Jennies " for the pur
pose, as the natives would not touch their milk, whilst they never
allowed me the use of a cow. — ED.

* This is the Ghi of India, the Raughan of Persia, the Samn
of Arabia, and the " one sauce " of the East. It is preserved for
any length of time in leather bottles ; and habit soon makes it
as palatable as butter. — ED.

STORES AND PROVISIONS. 13

found to keep sweet for a great length of time, and its
flavor is but little impaired by the process.

Sugar may be well secured in India-rubber or gutta-
percha sacks, or so placed in the wagon as not to risk
getting wet.

Desiccated or dried vegetables are almost equal to the
fresh, and are put up in such a compact and portable form
as easily to be transported over the plains. They have
been extensively used in the Crimean war, and by our own
army in Utah, and have been very generally approved.
They are prepared by cutting the fresh vegetables into
thin slices and subjecting them to a very powerful press,
which removes the juice and leaves a solid cake, which,
after having been thoroughly dried in an oven, becomes
almost as hard as a rock. A small piece of this, about
half the size of a man's hand, wThen boiled, swells up so as
to till a vegetable dish, and is sufficient for four men. It
is believed that the antiscorbutic properties of vegetables
are not impaired by desiccation ; and they will keep for
years if not exposed to dampness. Canned vegetables are
very good for campaigning, but are not so portable as
when put up in the other form. The desiccated vegetables
used in our army have been prepared by Chollet and Co.,
46, Hue Richer, Paris. There is an agency for them in
New York. I regard these compressed vegetables as the
best preparation for prairie traveling that has yet been
discovered. A single ration weighs, before being boiled,
only an ounce, and a cubic yard contains 16,000 rations.
In making up their outfit for the plains, men are very
prone to overload their teams with a great variety of use
less articles. It is a good rule to carry nothing more than
is absolutely necessary for use upon the journey. One
cannot expect, with the limited allowance of transporta
tion that emigrants usually have, to indulge in luxuries
upon such expeditions, and articles for use in California
can be purchased there at less cost than that of overland
transport.

The allowance of provisions for men in marching should
be much greater than when they take no exercise. The

14 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

army ration I have always found insufficient for soldiers
who perform hard service, yet it is ample for them when
in quarters.

The following table shows the amount of subsistence
consumed per day by each man of Dr. Rae's party, in his
spring journey to the Arctic regions of North America in
1854:

Pemmican ........ 1.25 Ibs.

Biscuit 0.25

Edward's preserved potatoes . . . .0.10

Flour 0.33

Tea 0.03

Sugar 0.14

Grease or alcohol, for cooking .... 0.25

2.35 Ibs.

This allowance of a little over two pounds of the most
nutritious food was found barely sufficient to subsist the
men in that cold climate.

The pemmican, which constitutes almost the entire diet
of the Fur Company's men in the north-west, is prepared
as follows : the buffalo meat is cut into thin flakes, and
hung up to dry in the sun, or before a slow fire ; it is then
pounded between two stones and reduced to a powder ;
this powder is placed in a bag of the animal's hide, with
the hair on the outside ; melted grease is then poured into
it, and the bag sewn up. It can be eaten raw, and many
prefer it so. Mixed with a little flour and boiled, it is a
very wholesome and exceedingly nutritious food, and will
keep fresh for a long time.

I would advise all persons who travel for any consider
able time through a country where they can procure no
vegetables to carry with them some antiscorbutics; and if
they cannot transport desiccated or canned vegetables,
citric acid answers a good purpose, and is very portable.
When mixed with sugar and water, with a few drops of
the essence of lemon, it is difficult to distinguish it from
lemonade. Wild onions are excellent as antiscorbutics ;
also wild grapes and greens. An infusion of hemlock
leaves is also said to be an antidote to scurvy.

STORES AND PROVISIONS. 15

The most portable and simple preparation of subsistence
that I know of, and which is used extensively by the
Mexicans and Indians, is called " cold flour."" It is made
by parching corn, and pounding it in a mortar to the con
sistency of coarse meal ; a little sugar and cinnamon added
makes it quite palatable. When the traveler becomes
hungry or thirsty, a little of the flour is mixed with water
and drunk. It is an excellent article for a traveler who
desires to go the greatest length of time upon the smallest
amount of transportation. It is said that half a bushel is
sufficient to subsist a man thirty days.

Persons undergoing severe labor, and driven to great
extremities for food, will derive sustenance from various
sources that would never occur to them under ordinary
.circumstances. In passing over the Rocky Mountains
during the winter of 1857-8, our supplies of provisions
were entirely consumed eighteen days before reaching the
first settlements in New Mexico, and we were obliged to
resort to a variety of expedients to supply the deficiency.
Our poor mules were fast failing and dropping down from
exhaustion in the deep snows, and our only dependence for
the means of sustaining life was upon these starved ani
mals as they became unserviceable and could go no further.
We had no salt, sugar, coffee, or tobacco, which, at a time
when men are performing the severest labour that the
human system is capable of enduring, was a great priva
tion. In this destitute condition we found a substitute for
tobacco in the bark of the red willow, which grows upon
many of the mountain streams in that vicinity. The outer
bark is first removed with a knife, after which the inner
bark is scraped up into ridges around the sticks, and held
in the fire until it is thoroughly roasted, when it is taken
off" the stick, pulverized in the hand, and is ready for
smoking. It has the narcotic properties of the tobacco,
and is quite agreeable to the taste and smell. The sumach
leaf is also used by the Indians in the same way, and has
a similar taste to the willow bark.* A decoction of the

* Ample details concerning this " kinnikinik " and other succe-
danea for tobacco used by the Western tribes are given in the " City

16 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

dried wild or horse mint, which we found abundant under
the snow, was quite palatable, and answered instead of
coffee. It dries up in that climate, but does not lose its
flavor. We suffered greatly for the want of salt ; but, by
burning the outside of our mule steaks, and sprinkling a
little gunpowder upon them, it did not require a very ex
tensive stretch of the imagination to fancy the presence of
both salt and pepper. We tried the meat of horse, colt,
and mules, all of which were in a starved condition, and
of course not very tender, juicy, or nutritious. We con
sumed the enormous amount of from five to six pounds of
this meat per man daily, but continued to grow weak and
thin, until, at the expiration of twelve days, we were able
to perform but little labor, and were continually craving
for fat meat.

The allowance of provisions for each grown person, to
make the journey from the Missouri Hiver to California,
should suffice for 110 days. The following is deemed re
quisite, viz.: 150 Ibs. of flour, or its equivalent in hard
bread ; 25 Ibs. of bacon or pork, and enough fresh beef to
be driven on the hoof to make up the meat component of
the ration ; 1 5 Ibs. of coffee, and 25 Ibs. of sugar ; also a
quantity of saleratus or yeast powders for making bread,*
and salt, and pepper.

These are the chief articles of subsistence necessary for
the trip, and they should be used with economy, reserving
a good portion for the western half of the journey. Here
tofore many of the California emigrants have improvidently
exhausted their stocks of provision before reaching their
journey's end, and have, in many cases, been obliged to
pay the most exorbitant prices in making up the deficiency.

of the Saints," chapter ii. Tobacco and green tea are the prairie
traveller's soothers and stimulants. Wine and spirits should be re
garded as remedial agents. — ED.

* Many of these are quasi-poisonous. I am practically acquainted
with only one preparation that resists an African climate : " Bor-
wick's General Baking Powder ;" There are, however, doubtless
many oi her equally valuable recipes. — ED.

CLOTHING. 17

It is true, that if persons choose to pass through Salt
Lake City, and the Mormons happen to be in an amiable
mood, supplies may sometimes be procured from them ;
but those who have visited them well know how little
reliance is to be placed upon their hospitality or spirit
of accommodation.*

I once traveled with a party of New Yorkers en route
for California. They were perfectly ignorant of every
thing relating to this kind of campaigning, and had over
loaded their wagons with almost every thing except the
very articles most important and necessary ; the conse
quence was, that they exhausted their teams, and were
obliged to throw away the greater part of their loading.
They soon learned that Champagne, East India sweet
meats, olives, etc., etc., were not the most useful articles
for a prairie tour.

CLOTHING.

A suitable dress for prairie traveling is of great import
to health and comfort. Cotton or linen fabrics do not
sufficiently protect the body against the direct rays of the
sun at mid-day, nor against rains or sudden changes of
temperature. "Wool, being a non-conductor, is the best
material for this mode of locomotion, and should always
be adopted for the plains. The coats should be short and
stout, the shirt of red or blue flannel, such as can be found
in almost all the shops on the frontier ; this, in warm
weather, answers for an outside garment. The pants
should be of thick and soft woolen material, and it is well
to have them re-inforced on the inside, where they come
in contact with the saddle, with soft buckskin, which
makes them more durable and comfortable.

Woolen socks and stout boots, coming up well at the
knees, and made large, so as to admit the pants, will be

* Here also my experience differs toto ccelo from that of the
gallant author. I found supplies at the Great Salt Lake City plen
tiful, and by no means exorbitantly dear. Perhaps, however, such
was not the case to the Federal Officer.— ED.

18 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

found the best for horsemen, and they guard against rattle
snake bites.

In traveling through deep snow during very cold wea
ther in winter, moccasins are preferable to boots or shoes,
as being more pliable, and allowing a freer circulation of
blood. In crossing the Rocky Mountains in winter, the
weather being intensely cold, I wore two pairs of woolen
socks, and a square piece of thick blanket sufficient to
cover the feet and ankles, over which were drawn a pair
of thick buckskin moccasins, and the w^hole enveloped in a
pair of buffalo-skin boots with the hair inside, made open
in the front and tied with buckskin strings. At the same
time I wore a pair of elkskin pants, which most effectually
prevented the air from penetrating to the skin, and made
an excellent defence against brush and thorns.

My men, who were dressed in the regulation- clothing,
wore out their pants and shoes before we reached the sum
mit of the mountains, and many of them had their feet
badly frozen in consequence. They mended their shoes
with pieces of leather cut from the saddle-skirts as long as
they lasted, and, when this material was gone, they covered
the entire shoe with green beeve or mule-hide, drawn to
gether and sewed upon the top, with the hair inside, which
protected the upper as well as the sole leather. The sewing
was done with an awl and buckskin strings. These simple
expedients contributed greatly to the comfort of the party ;
and, indeed, I am by no'means sure that they did not, in
our straitened condition, without the transportation neces
sary for carrying disabled men, save the lives of some of
them. Without the awl and buckskins we should have
been unable to have repaired the shoes. They should
never be forgotten in making up the outfit for a prairie
expedition.

We also experienced great inconvenience and pain, by
the reflection of the sun's rays from the snow upon our
eyes, and some of the party became nearly snow-blind.
Green and blue glasses, inclosed in a wire net-work, are an
effectual protection to the eyes ; but, in the absence of
these, the skin around the eyes and upon the nose should

CAMP EQUIPAGE. 19

be blackened with wet powder or charcoal, which will afford
great relief'.*

In the summer season shoes are much better for footmen
than boots, as they are lighter, and do not cramp the
ankles ; the soles should be broad, so as to allow a square,
firm tread, without distorting or pinching the feet.

The following list of articles is deemed a sufficient out
fit for one man upon a three months' expedition, viz. :

2 blue or red flannel overshirts,
open in front, with buttons.
2 woolen undershirts.
2 pairs thick cotton drawers.
4 pairs woolen socks.
2 pairs cotton socks.
4 colored silk handkerchiefs.

2 pairs stout shoes, for footmen.
1 pair boots, for horsemen.

1 pair shoes, for horsemen.

3 towels.

1 gutta percha poncho.

1 broad-brimmed hat of soft felt.

1 comb and brush.

2 tooth-brushes.

1 pound Castile soap.

3 pounds bar soap for washing
clothes.

1 belt- knife and small whetstone.

Stout linen thread, large needles,
a bit of beeswax, a few buttons,
paper of pins, and a thimble,
all contained in a small buck
skin or stout cloth bag.

The foregoing articles, with the coat and overcoat, com
plete the wardrobe.

CAMP EQUIPAGE.

The bedding for each person should consist of two
blankets, a comforter, and a pillow, and a gutta percha
or painted canvas cloth to spread beneath the bed upon
the ground, and to contain it when rolled up for trans
portation.

Every mess of six or eight persons will require a
wrought-iron camp kettle, large enough for boiling meat
and making soup ; a coffee-pot and cups of heavy tin, with
the handles riveted on ; tin plates, frying and bake pans
of wrought-iron, the latter for baking bread and roasting

* Those who know how to use the Oriental Kohl or Surma will
do well to take some with them.

I deprecate the use of red shirts, if sporting be the traveller's
object, and I advise a double broad-brim of soft felt, one being fitted
inside the other. — ED.

20 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

coffee. Also a mess pan of heavy tin or wrought-iron for
mixing bread and other culinary purposes ; knives, forks,
and spoons ; an extra camp kettle ; tin or gutta percha
bucket for water — wood, being liable to shrink and fall to
pieces, is not deemed suitable ; an axe, hatchet, and spade
will also be needed, with a mallet for driving picket-pins.
Matches should be carried in bottles and corked tight, so
as to exclude the moisture.

A little blue mass, quinine, opium, and some cathartic
medicine, put up in doses for adults, will suffice for the
medicine-chest.*

* The diseases to be guarded against in Prairie travelling are
ophthalmia, fever and ague, and dysenteric affections, proceeding
from liver complaint. A man can hardly expect to escape scathless
from a sudden change of London life to that of the Far West, and
he should be prepared to doctor himself rather than trust to the
faculty as represented in the Far West.

For ophthalmia, the best treatment is a self-adhering blister affixed
to the temples till inflammation disappears. The eyes must be
washed with warm water, coupe, if possible, with milk, and the cure
should be assisted by the usual drop of nitrate of silver or sulphate
of zinc.

For fevers, calomel — not the blue pill, which easily becomes rancid
— Epsom salts or castor oil capsules, and quinine, will be found suffi
cient. In very dangerous places, I always travel with a few phials
of tinctura Warburgii or Warburg's drops, a patent medicine which
may be bought of Sanger and Co., chemists, 150, Oxford Street.

The best, and indeed the only remedy for the legion of dysenteric
diseases, arising from hepatic derangements, is nitro-muriatic acicl.
I copy from the City of the Saints (chap. 6), the proportions for
internal administration. R — Acid nit. . 1j.

Acid mur. . 5ij Misce.

Of this mixture, fifteen drops in a tumbler of water, twice a day be
fore meals, form the dose.

The local bath may be taken either by compress or by placing the
feet in a basin half filled with a quart of hot water and 1 oz. of the
nitro-muriatic acid, wrapping at the same time a blanket round the
lower extremities to confine the chlorine.

Nitro-muriatic acid is by no means convenient to carry ; but its
essential value should render the labour light. Above all things let
the traveler avoid using, in dysentery and diarrhoea, opium,laudanum,
and morphia or catechu, and similar astringents. Half the deaths
from those diseases which occurred in the Crimea, were caused, I
believe, by the injudicious use of opiates.

When the malady is not complicated by hepatic affections, it is

ARMS. 21

Eacli ox-wagon should be provided with a covered tar-
bucket, filled with a mixture of tar or resin and grease,
two bows extra, six S's, and six open links for repairing
chains. Every set of six wagons should have a tongue,
coupling pole, king-bolt, and pair of hounds extra.

Every set of six-mule wagons should be furnished with
five pairs of hames, two double trees, four whipple-trees,
and two pairs of lead bars extra.

Two lariats will be needed for every horse and mule, as
one generally wears out before reaching the end of a long
journey. They will be found useful in crossing deep
streams, and in letting wagons down steep hills and moun
tains ; also in repairing broken wagons. Lariats made of
hemp* are the best.

One of the most indispensable articles to the outfit of
the prairie traveler is buckskin. For repairing harness,
saddles, bridles, and numerous other purposes of daily
necessity, the awl and buckskin will be found in constant
requisition.

ARMS.

Every man who goes into the Indian country should be
armed with a rifle and revolver, and he should never,
either in camp or out of it, lose sight of them. When
not on the march, they should be placed in such a position
that they can be seized at an instant's warning ; and when
moving about outside the camp, the revolver should
invariably be worn in the belt, as the person does not know
at what moment he may have to use it.

A great diversity of opinion obtains regarding the kind
of rifle that is the most efficient and best adapted to
Indian warfare ; and the question is perhaps as yet very
far from, being settled to the satisfaction of all. A large

easily removed by simple measures. The best, I believe, is a large
spoonful of iron-rust in a small coffee-cup of rum, or cognac burnt
down till the spirit has almost evaporated, and a diet of gruel or
hominy mixed with common or prepared chalk. — ED.
* The hemp should be Russian, not Manilla. — ED.

22 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

majority of men prefer the breech-loading arm ; but there
are those who still adhere tenaciously to the old-fashioned
muzzle-loading rifle as preferable to any of the modern
inventions. Among these may be mentioned the border
hunters and mountaineers, who cannot be persuaded to
use any other than the Hawkin's rifle, for the reason that
they know nothing about the merits of any others. My
own experience has forced me to the conclusion, that the
breech-loading arm possesses great advantages over the
muzzle-loading, for the reason that it can be charged and
fired with much greater rapidity.

Colt's revolving pistol is very generally admitted, both
in Europe and America, to be the most efficient arm of its
kind known at the present day. As the same principles
are involved in the fabrication of his breech-loading rifle
as are found in the pistol, the conviction to me is irresis
tible that, if one arm is worthy of consideration, the other
is equally so. For my own part, I look upon Colt's new
patent rifle as a most excellent arm for border service. It
gives six shots in more rapid succession than any other
rifle I know of, and these, if properly expended, are often
times sufficient to decide a contest. Moreover, it is the
most reliable and certain weapon to fire that I have ever
used; and I cannot resist the force of my conviction that,
if I were alone upon the prairies, and expected an attack
from a body of Indians, I am not acquainted with any
arm I would not as soon have in my hands as this.

The army and navy revolvers have both been used in
our army ; but the officers are not united in opinion in
regard to their relative merits. I prefer the large army
size, for reasons which will be given hereafter."*

* After some experience, I still prefer the " Colt," especially the
new edition, with the improved plan of removing the cylinder. The
army (dragoon or largest) size is best fitted for holsters, the navy,
or medium, for the belt.

Few men would, in these days, be mad enough to prefer the
muzzle-loader to the breech-loader, except in places like Central
Africa, where, in long travel, the simplest lock lasts the longest ;
where the flint is better than the percussion cap, and where, per-

ARMS. 23

haps, the matchlock is superior to the flint. The remotest corners
of the American States, however, are so closely connected with
civilization, that in case of accidents by fire or flood, a fresh supply
of cartridges could readily be procured. Besides which, a breech
loader should always be convertible into a muzzle-loader.

When I visited the Prairies in the summer of 1800, the Maynard
breech-loader was incomparably " the cheese." Since that time,
the exigencies of the so-called " Secession " have produced new and
improved forms. Of the English, I prefer Cooper, of Birmingham,
as being more simple than the well-known " Terry."

Against so dangerous and powerful an animal as the grizzly bear
of the Rocky Mountains, I should be disposed, though some may
deem the proceeding unsportsmanlike, to use detonating shells, six
to the pound. Thrown from a double-barrelled rifle, made short,
heavy, and handy, and carrying, without kicking, four drachms of
powder. The "shells" now mostly in use are those invented by
the late Gen. Jacob, of Jacobadad, Sindh, and perpetuated in the
Blakeleygun. They are objectionable, because they require a pecu
liar ramrod, and cautious loading. Moreover, they are not wholly
free from danger in case of violent falls or other shocks.

My own system is to cast the leaden cone in two separate pieces,
which can be connected by a male and female screw, thus : —

The fulminating powder, carefully proportioned to the weight of
metal, is contained in an air-proof cap of thin copper tube, and this
is inserted into the hollow left for it in the length of the missile.
The dotted line in the diagram represents the plan of the detonat
ing agent. Such cones can be carried about without risk. They keep
for ever— they require no change of rarnrod, nor care in loading;
and they are not liable to explode, even when forcibly thrown
against a stone.

Those who object to shells, will, of course, remember that there
are such things as steel tips, and that they were successfully
used by M. Jules Gerard, against that king of kings, the lion of
Kabylie. And the many who prefer in such encounters, when
rapid loading may save life, a smooth-bore to a rifle, will hardly
think encountering "Ole Cuffy." except with a heavy weapon
throwing balls of 3oz. in weight, hardened with zinc, spelter, or
quicksilver. — ED.

24 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

CHAPTER II.

Marching. — Treatment of Animals. — Water.— Different methods of
finding and purifying it. — Journadas. — Methods of crossing them.
— Advance and Rear Guards. — Selection of Camp.— Sanitary Con
siderations. — Dr. Jackson's Report. — Picket Guards. — Stampedes.
— How to prevent them. — Corraling Wagons.

MARCHING.

THE success of a long expedition through an unpopu
lated country depends mainly on the care taken of the
animals, and the manner in which they are driven, herded,
and guarded. If they are broken down or lost, everything
must be sacrificed, and the party becomes perfectly help
less.

The great error into which inexperienced travellers are
liable to fall, and which probably occasions more suffering
and disaster than almost anything else, lies in overworking
their cattle at the commencement of the journey. To ob
viate this, short and easy drives should be made until the
teams become habituated to their work, and gradually
inured to this particular method of traveling. If animals
are overloaded and overworked when they first start out
into the prairies, especially if they have been recently
taken from grain, they soon fall away, and give out before
reaching the end of the journey.

Grass and water are abundant and good upon the eastern
portions of all the different overland routes ; animals should
not, therefore, with proper care, fall away in the least
before reaching the mountains, as, wrest of them, are long
stretches were grass and water are scarce, and it requires
the full amount of strength and vigor of animals in good

WATER. 25

condition to endure the fatigues and hard labor attendant
upon the passage of these deserts. Drivers should be
closely watched, and never, unless absolutely necessary,
permitted to beat their animals or to force them out of a
walk, as this will soon break down the best teams. Those
teamsters who make the least use of the whip invariably
keep their animals in the best condition. Unless the
drivers are checked at the outset, they are very apt to fall
into the habit of flogging their teams. It is not only
wholly unnecessary, but cruel, and should never be toler
ated.

In traveling with ox teams in the summer season, great
benefit will be derived from making early marches; starting
with the dawn, and making a "nooning" during the heat of
the day, as oxen suffer much from the heat of the sun in
midsummer. These noon halts should, if possible, be so
arranged as to be near grass and water, where the animals
can improve their time in grazing. When it gets cool,
they may be hitched to the wagons again, and the journey
continued in the afternoon. Sixteen or eighteen miles a
day may thus be made without injury to the beasts, and
longer drives can never be expedient, unless in order to
reach grass or water. When the requisites for encamping
cannot be found at the desired intervals, it is better for the
animals to make a very long drive than to encamp without
water or grass. The noon halt in such cases may be made
without water, and the evening drive lengthened.

WATER.

The scarcity of water upon some of the routes across the
plains occasionally exposes the traveler to intense suffering,
and renders it a matter of much importance for him to
learn the best methods of guarding against the disasters
liable to occur to men and animals in the absence of this
most necessary element.

In mountainous districts, water can generally be found
either in springs, the dry beds of streams, or in holes in
the rocks, where they are sheltered from rapid evaporation.
For example, in the Hueco tanks, thirty miles east of El

26 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

Paso, New Mexico, upon the Fort Smith road, where there
is an immense reservoir in a cave, water can always be
found. This reservoir receives the drainage of a mountain.

During a season of the year when there are occasional
showers, water will generally be found in low places where
there is a substratum of clay ; but after the dry season has
set in these pools evaporate, and it is necessary to dig
wells. The lowest spots should be selected for this pur
pose, where the grass is green and the surface earth moist.

In searching for water along the dry sandy beds of
streams, it is well to try the earth with a stick or ramrod,
and if this indicates moisture, water will generally be ob
tained by excavation. Streams often sink in light and
porous sand, and sometimes make their appearance again
lower down, where the bed is more tenacious ; but it is a
rule with prairie travelers, in searching for water in a
sandy country, to ascend the streams, and, the nearer their
sources are approached, the more water will be found in a
dry season.

Where it becomes necessary to sink a well in a stream,
the bed of which is quicksand, a flour barrel perforated
with small holes, should be used as a curb, to prevent the
sand from caving in. The barrel must be forced down as
the sand is removed ; and when, as is often the case, there
is an under current through the sand, the well will be
continually filled with water.

There are many indications of water known to old cam
paigners, although none of them are absolutely infallible.
The most certain of them are deep green cotton wood or
willow trees growing in depressed localities ; also flags,
water-rushes, tall green grass, etc.

The fresh tracks and trails of animals converging
toward a common centre, and the flight of birds and water
fowl toward the same points, will also lead to water. In
a section frequented by deer or mustangs, it may be certain
that water is not far distant, as these animals drink daily,
and they will not remain long in a locality after the water
has dried up. Deer generally go to water during the
middle of the day, but birds toward evening.

WATER. 27

A supply of drinking water may be obtained during a
shower from the drippings of a tent, or by suspending a
cloth or blanket by the four corners and hanging a small
weight to the centre, so as to allow all the rain to run
toward one point, from whence it drops into a vessel be
neath. India-rubber, gutta-percha, or painted canvas
cloths answer a very good purpose for catching water
during a rain, but they should be previously well washed,
to prevent them from imparting a bad taste.

When there are heavy dews, water may be collected by
spreading out a blanket with a stick attached to one end,
tying a rope to it, dragging it over the grass, and wring
ing out the water as it accumulates. In some parts of
Australia this method is practised.

In traversing the country upon the head waters of Red
River, during the summer of 18-02, we suffered most
severely from thirst, having nothing but the acrid and
bitter waters from the river, which, issuing from a gypsum
formation, was highly charged with salts, and, when taken
into the stomach, did not quench thirst in the slightest
degree, but, on the contrary, produced a most painful and
burning sensation, accompanied with diarrhoea. During
the four days that we were compelled to drink this water,
the thermometer rose to 104° in the shade ; and the only
relief we found was from bathing in the river.

The use of water is a matter of habit, very much within
our control, as by practice we may discipline ourselves so
as to require but a small amount. Some persons for ex
ample, who place no restraint upon their appetites, will, if
they can get it, drink water twenty times a day, while
others will not perhaps drink more than once or twice
during the same time. I have found a very effectual pre
ventive to thirst by drinking a large quantity of water
before breakfast, and, on feeling thirsty on the march,
chewing a small green twig or leaf.

Water taken from stagnant pools, charged with putrid
vegetable matter and animalculoc, would be very likely to
generate fevers and dysenteries if taken into the stomach
without purification. It should, therefore, be thoroughly

28 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

boiled, and all the scum removed from the surface as it
rises ; this clarifies it, and by mixing powdered charcoal
with it the disinfecting process is perfected. Water may
also be purified by placing a piece of alum in the end of a
stick that has been split, and stirring it round in a bucket
of water. Charcoal and the leaves of the prickly pear
are also used for the same purpose. I have recently seen
a compact and portable filter, made of charcoal, which
clarifies the water very effectually, and draws it off on the
siphon principle. It can be obtained at 85, West Street,
New York, for one dollar and a half. Water may be
partially filtered in a muddy pond by taking a barrel and
boring the lower half full of holes, then filling it up with
grass or moss above the upper holes, after which it is
placed in the pond with the top above the surface. The
water filters through the grass or moss, and rises in the
barrel to a level with the pond. Travelers frequently
drink muddy water by placing a cloth or handkerchief
over the mouth of a cup to catch the larger particles of
dirt and animalculse.

Water may be cooled so as to be quite palatable by
wrapping cloths around the vessels containing it, wetting
them, and hanging them in the air, when a rapid evapor
ation will be produced. Some of the frontier-men, use a
leathern sack for carrying water : this is porous, and
allows the necessary evaporation without wetting.

The Arabs also use a leathern bottle, which they call
zemzemiyah. When they are en route they hang it on the
shady side of a camel, where the evaporation keeps the
water continually cool.

No expedition should ever set out into the plains with
out being supplied with the means for carrying water,
especially in an unknown region. If wooden kegs are
used they must frequently be looked after, and soaked, in
order that they may not shrink and fall to pieces. Men,
in marching in a hot climate, throw off a great amount of
perspiration from the skin, and require a corresponding
quantity of water to supply the deficiency ; and, unless
they get this, they suffer greatly. When a party makes

JOURNADAS. 29

an expedition into a desert section, where there is a pro
bability of finding- no water, and intends to return over
the same track, it is well to carry water as far as con
venient, and bury it in the ground for use on the return
trip.

" Captain Stuart, when he explored Australia, took a
tank in his cart, which burst, and, besides that, he carried
casks of water. By these he was enabled to face a desert
country with a success which no traveler had ever attained
to. For instance, when returning homeward, the water
was found to be drying up from the country on all sides of
him. lie was at a pool, and the next stage was 118 miles,
at the end of which it was doubtful if there remained any
water. It was necessary to send to reconnoitre, and to
furnish the messenger with means of returning should the
pool be found dry. He killed a bullock, skinned it, and,
filling the skin with water (which held 150 gallons), sent
it by an ox dray thirty miles, with orders to bury it and to
return. Shortly after, he dispatched a light one-horse
cart, carrying thirty-six gallons to supply them for a jour
ney of 476 miles, or six days at thirty miles a day, at the
close of which they would return to the ox hide — sleeping,
in fact, five nights 011 thirty-six gallons of water. This a
hardy, well-driven horse could do, even in the hottest
climate."*

JOURNADAS.

^'

In some localities 50 or 60 miles, and even greater dis
tances, are frequently traversed without water ; these long
stretches are called by the Mexicans " journadas," or day's
journeys. There is one in New Mexico called Journada
del Muerto, which is 78^ miles in length, where, in a dry
season, there is not a drop of water ; yet, with proper
care, this drive can be made with ox or mule teams, and
without loss or injury to the animals.

* F. Galton's Art of Travel, p. 17 and 18.— AUTHOR. The English
traveler will not neglect to make a companion of the Second
Edition of this most useful Manual. I would rather examine
officers in the Art of Travel than " put them through " Roman
History, or even Latin. — ED.

30 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

On arriving at the last camping- ground before entering
upon the journada, all the animals should be as well
rested and refreshed as possible. To insure this, they
must be turned out upon the best grass that can be found,
and allowed to eat and drink as much as they desire
during the entire halt. Should the weather be very warm,
and the teams composed of oxen, the march should not be
resumed until it begins to cool in the afternoon. They
should be carefully watered just previous to being hitched
up and started out upon the journada, the water-kegs
having been previously filled. The drive is then com
menced, and continued during the entire night, with ten
or fifteen minutes rest every two hours. About daylight
a halt should be made, and the animals immediately turned
out to graze for two hours, during which time, especially
if there is dew upon the grass, they will have become con
siderably refreshed, and may be put to the wagons again,
and driven until the heat becomes oppressive toward noon,
when they are again turned out upon a spot where the
grass is good, and, if possible, where there are shade-trees.
About four o'clock P.M. they are again started, and the
march continued into the night, and as long as they can
be driven without suffering. If, however, there should be
dew, which is seldom the case on the plains, it would be
well to turn out the animals several times during the
second night, and by morning, if they are in good con
dition, the journada of seventy or eighty miles will have
been passed without any great amount of suffering. I am
supposing, in this case, that the road is firm and free from
sand.

Many persons have been under the impression that ani
mals, in traversing the plains, would perform better, and
keep in better condition, by allowing them to graze in the
morning before commencing the day's march, which in
volves the necessity of making late starts, and driving
during the heat of the day. The same persons have been
of the opinion that animals will graze only at particular
hours; that the remainder of the day must be allowed
them for rest and sleep, and that, unless these rules be

JOURNADAS 31

observed, they would not thrive. This opinion is, however,
erroneous, as animals will in a few days adapt themselves
to any circumstances, so far as regards their hours of labor,
rest, and refreshment. If they have been accustomed to
work at particular periods of the day, and the order of
things is suddenly reversed, the working hours changed
into hours of rest, and vice versa, they may not do as well
for a short time ; but they will soon accustom themselves
to the change, and eat and rest as well as before. By
making early drives during the summer months the heat
of the day is avoided, whereas, I repeat, if allowed to
graze before starting, the march can not commence until
it grows warm, when animals, especially oxen, will suffer
greatly from the heat of the sun, and will not do as well
as when the other plan is pursued.

Oxen upon a long journey will sometimes wear down
their hoofs and become lame. When this occurs, a thick
piece of raw hide wrapped around the foot and tied firmly
to the leg will obviate the difficulty, provided the weather
is not wet; for if so, the shoe soon wears out. Mexican
and Indian horses and mules will make long journeys
without being shod, as their hoofs are tough and elastic,
and wear away very gradually; they will, however, in
time became very smooth, making it difficult for them to
travel upon grass.

A train of wagons should always be kept closed upon a
march ; and if, as often happens, a particular wagon gets
out of order and is obliged to halt, it should be turned out
of the road, to let the others pass while the injury is being
repaired. As soon as the broken wagon is in order, it should
fall into the line wherever it happens to be. In the event of
a wagon breaking down so as to require important repairs,
men should be immediately dispatched with the necessary
tools and materials, which should be placed in the train
where they can readily be got at, and a guard should be
left to escort the wagon to camp after having been repaired.
If, however, the damage be so serious as to require any
great length of time to repair it, the load should be trans
ferred to other wagons, so that the team which is left

32 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

behind will be able to travel rapidly and overtake the
train.

If the broken wagon is a poor one, and there be abun
dance of better ones, the accident being such as to involve
much delay for its repair, it may be wise to abandon it,
taking from it such parts as may possibly be wanted in
repairing other

ADVANCE AND REAR GUARDS.

A few men, well mounted, should constitute the advance
and rear guards for each train of wagons passing through
the Indian country. Their duty will be to keep a vigilant
look-out in all directions, and to reconnoitre places where
Indians would be likely to lie in ambush. Should hostile
Indians be discovered, the fact should be at once reported
to the commander, who (if he anticipates an attack) will
rapidly form his wagons into a circle or "corral" with
the animals toward the centre, and the men on the inside,
with their arms in readiness to repel an attack from with
out. If these arrangements be properly attended to, few
parties of Indians will venture to make an attack, as they
are well aware that some of their warriors might pay with
their lives the forfeit of such indiscretion.

I know an instance where one resolute man, pursued for
several days by a large party of Comanches on the Santa
Fe trace, defended himself by dismounting and pointing
his rifle at the foremost whenever they came near him,
which always had the effect of turning them back. This
was repeated so often that the Indians finally abandoned
the pursuit, and left the traveler to pursue his journey
without further molestation. During all this time he did
not discharge his rifle; had he done so he would doubtless
have been killed.

SELECTION OF CAMPS.

The security of animals, and, indeed, the general safety
of a party, in traveling through a country occupied by

SELECTION OF CAMPS. 33

hostile Indians, depends greatly upon the judicious selection
of camps. One of the most important considerations that
should influence the choice of a locality is its capability
for defence. If the camp be pitched beside a stream, a
concave bend, where the water is deep, with a soft alluvial
bed inclosed by high and abrupt banks, will be the most
defensible, and all the more should the concavity form a
peninsula. The advantages of such a position are obvious
to a soldier' s eye, as that part of the encampment inclosed
by the stream is naturally secure, and leaves only one side
to be defended. The concavity of the bend will enable
the defending party to cross its fire in case of attack from
the exposed side. The bend of the stream will also form
an excellent corral in which to secure animals from a
stampede, and thereby diminish the number of sentinels
needful around the camp. In herding animals at night
within the bend of a stream, a spot should be selected
where no clumps of brush grow on the side where the
animals are posted. If thickets of brush can not be
avoided, sentinels should be placed near them, to guard
against Indians, who might take advantage of this cover
to steal animals, or shoot them down with arrows, before
their presence was known.

In camping away from streams, it is advisable to select
a position in which one or more sides of the encampment
shall rest upon the crest of an abrupt hill or bluff. The
prairie Indians make their camps upon the summits of the
hills, whence they can see in all directions, and thus avoid
a surprise.*

The line of tents should be pitched on that side of the
camp most exposed to attack, and sentinels so posted that
they may give alarm in time for the main body to rally
and prepare for defence.

SANITARY CONSIDERATIONS.
When camping near rivers and lakes surrounded by

* Captain Sturt, and other Australian explorers, successfully
adopted this plan. — ED.

D

34 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

large bodies of timber and a luxuriant vegetation, which
produces a great amount of decomposition and consequent
exhalations of malaria, it is important to ascertain what
localities will be the least likely to generate disease, and to
affect the sanitary condition of men occupying them.

This subject has been thoroughly examined by Dr. Ro
bert Johnson, Inspector General of Hospitals in the English
army in 1845 ;* and, as his conclusions are deduced from
enlarged experience and extended research, they should
have great weight. I shall, therefore, make no apology
for introducing here a few extracts from his interesting
report touching upon this subject : —

"It is consonant with the experience of military people,
in all ages and in all countries, that camp -diseases most
abound near the muddy banks of large rivers, near swamps
and ponds, and on grounds which have been recently
stripped of their woods. The fact is precise, but it has
been set aside to make way for an opinion. It was assum
ed, about half a century since, by a celebrated army-phy
sician, that camp diseases originated from causes of putre
faction, and that putrefaction is connected radically with
a stagnant condition of the air.

" As streams of air usually proceed along rivers with
more certainty and force than in other places, and as there
is evidently a more certain movement of air, that is, more
wind on open grounds than among woods and thickets,
this sole consideration, without any regard to experience,
influenced opinion, gave currency to the destructive maxim
that the banks of rivers, open grounds, and exposed heights
are the most eligible situations for the encampment of
troops. They are the best ventilated ; they must, if the
theory be true, be the most healthy.

" The fact is the reverse ; but, demonstrative as the fact
may be, fashion has more influence than multiplied ex
amples of facts experimentally proved. Encampments are
still formed in the vicinity of swamps, or on grounds

* And later still by Sir Ranald Martin, K.C.B., whose well-digested
opinions touching sanitaria in tropical climates will, I hope, pre
sently change the map of British India. — ED.

SANITARY CONSIDERATIONS. 35

which are newly cleared of their woods, in obedience to
theory, and contrary to fact.

" It is prudent, as now said, in selecting ground for en
campment, to avoid the immediate vicinity of swamps and
rivers. The air is there noxious ; but, as its influence
thence originating does not extend beyond a certain limit,
it is a matter of some importance to ascertain to what dis
tance it does extend ; because, if circumstances do not
permit that the encampment be removed out of its reach,
prudence directs that remedies be applied to weaken the
force of its pernicious impressions.

" The remedies consist in the interposition of rising
grounds, woods, or such other impediments as serve to break
the current in its progress from the noxious source. It is
an obvious fact, that the noxious cause, or the exhalations
in which it is enveloped, ascends as it traverses the adja
cent plain, and that its impression is augmented by the
adventitious force with which it strikes upon the subject of
its action.

"It is thus that a position of three hundred paces from
the margin of a swamp, or on a level with the swamp
itself, or but moderately elevated, is less unhealthy than
one at six hundred on the same line of direction on an ex
posed height.* The cause here strikes fully in its ascent ;
and as the atmosphere has a more varied temperature, and
the successions of the air are more irregular on the height
than on the plain, the impression is more forcible, and the
noxious effect more strongly marked. In accord with this
principle, it is almost uniformly true, cceteris paribus, that
diseases are more common, at least more violent, in broken,
irregular, and hilly countries, where the temperature is
liable to sudden changes, and where blasts descend with
fury from the mountains, than in large and extensive
inclined plains under the action of equal and gentle breezes
only.

* Hence it is, that in British India the hills were always held to
be the least wholesome sites, until some enterprizing men bethought
themselves of ascending above the mean level of malaria — from
2,500 to 4,000 feet.— ED.

36 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

" From this fact it becomes an object of the first con
sideration, in selecting ground for encampment, to guard
against the impression of strong winds on their own ac
count, independently of their proceeding from swamps,
rivers, and noxious soils.

" It is proved by experience, in armies as in civil life,
that injury does not often result from simple wetting with
rain when the person is fairly exposed in the open air, and
habitually inured to the contingencies of weather. Irre
gular troops, which act in the advanced line of armies, and
which have no other shelter from weather than a hedge or
tree, rarely experience sickness — never, at least, the sick
ness which proceeds from contagion ; hence it is inferred
that the shelter of tents is not necessary for the preserva
tion of health. Irregular troops, with contingent shelter
only, are comparatively healthy, while sickness often rages
with violence in the same scenes, among those who have all
the protection against the inclemencies of weather which
can be furnished by canvas. The fact is verified by ex
perience, and the cause of it is not of difficult explanation.
When the earth is damp, the action of heat on its surface
occasions the interior moisture to ascend. The heat of the
bodies of a given number of men, confined within a tent
of a given dimension, raises the temperature within the
tent beyond the temperature of the common air outside
the tent. The ascent of moisture is thus encouraged,
generally by a change of temperature in the tent, and
more particularly by the immediate or near contact of the
heated bodies of the men with the surface of the earth.
Moisture, as exhaled from the earth, is considered by ob
servers of fact to be a cause which acts injuriously on
health. Produced artificially by the accumulation of in
dividuals in close tents, it may reasonably be supposed to
produce its usual effects on armies. A cause of contagious
influence, of fatal effect, is thus generated by accumulating
soldiers in close and crowded tents, under the pretext of
defending them from the inclemencies of the weather ; and
hence it is that the means which are provided for the pre-

SANITARY CONSIDERATIONS. 37

servation of health are actually the causes of destruction
of life.*

" There are two causes which more evidently act upon
the health. of troops in the field than any other, namely,
moisture exhaled direct from the surface of the earth in
undue quantity, and emanations of a peculiar character
arising from diseased action in the animal system in a
mass of men crowded together. These are principal, and
they are important. The noxious effects may be obviated,
or rather the noxious cause will not be generated, under
the following arrangement, namely, a carpet of painted
canvas for the floor of the tent ; a tent with a light roof,
as defence against perpendicular rain or the rays of a ver
tical sun ; and with side walls of moderate height, to be
employed only against driving rains. To the first, there
can be no objection : it is useful, as preventing the exhala
tions of moisture from the surface of the earth ; it is con
venient, as always ready; and it is economical, as less
expensive than straw. It requires to be fresh painted only
once a year."

The effect of crowding men together in close quarters,
badly ventilated, was shown in the prisons of Hindostan,
where at one time, when the English held sway, they had,
011 an average, 40,000 natives in confinement ; and this
unfortunate population was every year liberated by death
in proportions varying from 4,000 to 10,000. The annual
average mortality by crowded and unventilated barracks
in the English army has sometimes been enormous, as at
Barrackpore, where it seldom fell far short of one-tenth ;
that is to say, its garrisons were every year decimated by
fever or cholera, while the officers and other inhabitants,
who lived in well- ventilated houses, did not find the place
particularly unhealthy.

The same fact of general exemption among the officers,
and complete exemption among their wives, was observed
in the marching regiments, which lost by cholera from

* The author here omits one well-known fomes of malarious
disease in tropical lands — turning up or digging into virgin ground.
Fresh clearings in bush or jungle are also dangerous. — ED.

38 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

one tenth to one sixth of the enlisted men, who were
packed together at night ten and twelve in a tent, with
the thermometer at 96°. The dimensions of the celebrated
Black Hole of Calcutta — where in 1756, 123 prisoners
out of 140 died by carbonic acid in one night — was but
eighteen feet square, and with but two small windows.
Most of the twenty-three who survived until morning
were seized with putrid fever and died very soon after
ward.

On the first of December, 1848, 150 deck passengers of
the steamer Londonderry were ordered below by the cap
tain and the hatches closed upon them : seventy were
found dead the next morning.

The streams which intersect our great prairies have but
a very sparse growth of wood or vegetation upon their
banks, so that one of the fundamental causes for the
generation of noxious malaria does not, to any great
extent, exist here ; and I believe that persons may encamp
with impunity directly upon their banks.*

PICKET GUARDS.

When a party is sufficiently strong, a picket guard
should be stationed during the night some two or three
hundred yards in advance of the point which is most open
to assault, and on low ground, so that an enemy approach
ing over the surrounding higher country can be seen
against the sky, while the sentinel himself is screened
from observation. These sentinels should not be allowed
to keep fires, unless they are so placed that they cannot
be seen from a distance.

During the day the pickets should be posted on the
summits of the highest eminences in the vicinity of camp,
with instructions to keep a vigilant look-out in all direc-

* There are exceptions — the line of the Platte River, for instance, is
notorious for "chills." As a rule the Prairie Traveller should pre
fer a Northern aspect, defended in rear by a curtain of high ground
from the miasmatic South winds that sweep up from the Gulf of
Mexico.— ED.

PICKET GUARDS. 39

tions ; and, if not within hailing distance, they should be
instructed to give some well- under stood telegraphic
signals to inform those in camp when there is danger.
For example, should Indians be discovered approaching at
a great distance, they may raise their caps upon the
muzzles of their pieces, and at the same time walk around
in a circle ; while, if the Indians are near and moving
rapidly, the sentinel may swing his cap and run around
rapidly in a circle. To indicate the direction from which
the Indians are approaching, he may direct his piece
toward them, and walk in the same line of direction.

Should the pickets suddenly discover a party of Indians
very near, and with the apparent intention of making an
attack, they should fire their pieces to give the alarm to
the camp.

These telegraphic signals, when well understood and
enforced, will tend greatly to facilitate the communication
of intelligence throughout the camp, and conduce much
to its security.

The picket guards should receive minute and strict
orders regarding their duties under all circumstances ; and
these orders should be distinctly understood by every one
in the camp, so that no false alarms will be created. All
persons, with the exception of the guards and herders,
should after dark be confined to the limits of the chain of
sentinels, so that, if any one is seen approaching from
without these limits, it will be known that they are
strangers.

As there will not often be occasion for any one to pass
the chain of pickets during the night, it is a good rule
(especially if the party is small), when a picket sentinel
discovers any one lurking about his post from without, if
he has not himself been seen, to quietly withdraw and
report the fact to the commander, who can collect his men
and make his arrangements to repel an attack and protect
his animals. If, however, the man upon the picket has
been seen, he should distinctly challenge the approaching
party, and if he receives no answer, fire, and retreat to
camp to report the fact.

40 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

It is of the utmost importance that picket guards should
be wide awake, and allow nothing to escape their observa
tion, as the safety of the whole camp is involved. During
a dark night a man can see better himself, and is less ex
posed to the view of others, when in* a sitting posture than
when standing up or moving about. I would, therefore,
recommend this practice for night pickets.*

Horses and mules (especially the latter), whose senses of
hearing and smelling are probably more acute than those
of almost any other animals, will discover anything
strange or unusual about camp much sooner than a man.
They indicate this by turning in the direction from whence
the object is approaching, holding their heads erect, pro
jecting their ears forward, and standing in a fixed and
attentive attitude. They exhibit the same signs of alarm
when a wolf or other wild animal approaches the camp ;
but it is always wise, when they show fear in this manner,
to be on the alert till the cause is ascertained.

Mules are very keenly sensitive to danger, and, in
passing along over the prairies, they will often detect the
proximity of strangers long before they are discovered by
their riders. Nothing seems to escape their observation ;
and I have heard of several instances where they have
given timely notice of the approach of hostile Indians,
and thus prevented stampedes.

Dogs are sometimes good sentinels, but they often sleep
sound, and are not easily awakened on the approach of an
enemy.

In marching with a large force, unless there is a guide
who knows the country, a small party should always be
sent in advance to search for good camping-places, and
these parties should be dispatched early enough to return
and meet the main command in the event of not finding a
a camping-place within the limits of the day's march. A
regiment should average upon the prairies, where the

* In this position the danger is sleep — few raw men can resist
the temptation, especially about the " small hours " which North
American Indians, like Africans and Australians, always choose
for onslaught. — ED.

STAMPEDES.

41

roads are good, about eighteen miles a day, but, if neces
sary, it can make twenty-five or even thirty miles. The ad
vance party should, therefore, go as far as the command can
march, provided the requisites for camping are not, found
within that distance. * The article of first importance in
campaigning is grass, the next water, and the last fuel.*

It is the practice of most persons traveling with large
ox-trains to select their camps upon the summit of a hill,
where the surrounding country in all directions can be
seen. Their cattle are then continually within view from
the camp, and can be guarded easily.

When a halt is made the wagons are " corraled," as it
is called, by bringing the two front ones near and parallel
to each other. The two next are then driven up on the
outside of these, with the front wheels of the former
touching the rear wheels of the latter, the rear of the
wagons turned out upon the circumference of the circle
that is being formed, and so on, until one-half the circle
is made, when the rear of the wagons are turned in to
complete the circle. An opening of about twenty yards
should be left between the last two wagons for animals to
pass in and out of the corral, and this may be closed with
two ropes stretched between the wagons. Such a corral
forms an excellent and secure barricade against Indian
attacks, and a good inclosure for cattle while they are
being yoked : indeed, it is indispensable.

STAMPEDES.

Inclosures are made in the same manner for horses and
mules, and, in case of an attempt to stampede them, they
should be driven with all possible dispatch into the corral,
where they will be perfectly secure. A " stampede " is
more to be dreaded upon the plains than almost any dis
aster that can happen. It not unfrequently occurs that
very many animals are irretrievably lost in this way, and
the objects of an expedition thus defeated.

The Indians are perfectly familiar with the habits and

* I should say water first and grass second. — ED.

42 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

dispositions of horses and mules, and with the most effectual
methods of terrifying them. Previous to attempting a
stampede, they provide themselves with rattles and other
means for making frightful noises ; thus prepared, they
approach as near the herds as possible without being seen,
and suddenly, with their horses at full speed, rush in
among them, making the most hideous and unearthly
screams and noises to terrify them, and drive them off
before their astonished owners are able to rally and secure
them.

As soon as the animals are started, the Indians divide
their party, leaving a portion to hurry them off rapidly,
while the rest linger some distance in the rear, to resist
those who may pursue them. Horses and mules, will
sometimes, especially in the night, become frightened and
stampeded from very slight causes. A wolf or a deer
passing through a herd will often alarm them, and cause
them to break away in the most frantic manner. Upon
one occasion, in the Choctaw country, my entire herd of
two hundred horses and mules all stampeded in the night,
and scattered over the country for many miles, and it was
several days before I succeeded in collecting them together.
The alarm occurred while the herders were walking among
the animals, and without any perceptible cause. The fore
going facts go to show how important it is at all times to
keep a vigilant guard over animals. In the vicinity of
hostile Indians, where an attack may be anticipated, several
good horses should be secured in such positions that
they will continually be in readiness for an emergency
of this kind. The herdsmen should have their horses in
hand, saddled and bridled, and ready at an instant's notice
to spring upon their backs and drive the herds into camp.
As soon as it is discovered that the animals have taken
fright, the herdsmen should use their utmost endeavors to
turn them in the direction of the camp, and this can
generally be accomplished by riding the bell mare in front
of the herd, and gradually turning her toward it, and
slackening her speed as the familiar objects about the
camp come in sight. This usually tends to quiet their
alarm.

REPAIRS OF ACCIDENTS. 43

CHAPTER III.

Repairing broken Wagons. — Fording Rivers. — Quicksand. — Wagon
Boats. — Bull Boats. — Crossing Packs. — Swimming Animals. —
Marching with loose Horses. — Herding Mules. — Best Methods of
Marching. — Herding and guarding Animals. — Descending Moun
tains. — Storms. — Northers.

REPAIRS OF ACCIDENTS.

THE accidents most liable to happen to wagons on the
plains arise from the great dryness of the atmosphere, and
the consequent shrinkage and contraction of the woodwork
in the wheels, the tires working loose, and the wheels, in
passing over sidling ground, oftentimes falling down and
breaking all the spokes where they enter the hub. It
therefore becomes a matter of absolute necessity for the
prairie traveler to devise some means of repairing such
damages, or of guarding against them by the use of timely
expedients.

The wheels should be frequently and closely examined,
and whenever a tire becomes at all loose it should at once
be tightened with pieces of hoop-iron, or wooden wedges
driven by twos, simultaneously, from opposite sides.
Another remedy for the same thing is to take off the
wheels after encamping, sink them in water, and allow
them to remain over night. This swells the wood, but is
only temporary, requiring frequent repetition ; and, after
a time, if the wheels have not been made of thoroughly
seasoned timber, it becomes necessary to reset the tires, in
order to guard against their destruction by falling to
pieces and breaking the spokes.

If the tires run off near a blacksmith's shop, or if there

44 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

be a traveling forge with the train, they may be tied on
with raw hide or ropes, and thus driven to the shop or
camp. When a rear wheel breaks down upon a march,
the best method I know of for taking the vehicle to a
place where it can be repaired, is to take off the damaged
wheel, and place a stout pole of three or four inches in
diameter under the end of the axle, outside the wagon-bed,
and extending forward above the front wheel, where it is
firmly lashed with ropes, while the other end of the pole
runs six or eight feet to the rear, and drags upon the
ground. The pole must be of such length and inclination
that the axle shall be raised and retained in its proper
horizontal position, when it can be driven to any distance
that may be desired. The wagon should be relieved as
much as practicable of its loading, as the pole dragging
upon the ground will cause it to run heavily.

When a front wheel breaks down, the expedient just
mentioned cannot be applied to the front axle, but the
two rear wheels may be taken off and placed upon this
axle (they will always fit), while the sound front wheel
can be substituted upon one side of the rear axle, after
which the pole may be applied as before described. This
plan I have adopted upon several different occasions, and
I can vouch for its efficacy.

The foregoing facts may appear very simple and unim
portant in themselves ; but blacksmiths and wheelwrights
are not met with at every turn of the road upon the
prairies ; and in the wilderness, where the traveler is
dependant solely upon his own resources, this kind of in
formation will be found highly useful.

When the spokes in a wheel shrink more than the
felloes, they work loose in the hub, and cannot be tightened
by wedging. The only remedy in such cases is to cut the
felloe with a saw on opposite sides, taking out two pieces
of such dimensions that the reduced circumference will
draw back the spokes into their proper places, and make
them snug. A thin wagon-bow, or barrel hoops, may
then be wrapped around the outside of the felloe, and
secured with small nails or tacks. This increases the

FORDING RIVERS. 45

diameter of the wheel, so that when the tire has been
heated, put on, and cooled, it forces back the spokes into
their true places, and makes the wheel as sound and strong
as it ever was. This simple process can be executed in
about half-an-hour, if there be fuel for heating, and obvi
ates the necessity of cutting and welding the tire. I
would recommend that the tires should be secured with
bolts and nuts, which will prevent them from running off
when they work loose, and, if they have been cut and
reset, they should be well tried with a hammer where they
are welded to make sure that the junction is sound.

FORDING RIVERS.

Many streams that intersect the different routes across
our continent are broad and shallow, and flow over beds of
quicksand, which, in seasons of high water, become boggy
and unstable, and are then exceedingly difficult to cross.
When these streams are on the rise, and, indeed, before
any swelling is perceptible, their beds become surcharged
with the sand loosened by the action of the under- current
from the approaching flood ; and from this time until the
water subsides fording is difficult, requiring great pre
cautions. On arriving upon the bank of a river of this
character which has not recently been crossed, the condi
tion of the quicksand may be ascertained by sending an
intelligent man over the fording-place, and, should the
sand not yield under his feet, it may be regarded as safe for
animals or wagons. Should it, however, prove soft and
yielding, it must be thoroughly examined, and the best
track selected. This can be done by a man on foot, who
will take a number of sharp sticks long enough, when
driven into the bottom of the river, to stand above the
surface of the water. He starts from the shore, and with
one of the sticks and his feet tries the bottom, in the di
rection of the opposite bank, until he finds the firmest
ground, where he plants one of the sticks to mark the
track. A man incurs no danger in walking over quick
sand, provided he step rapidly, and he will soon detect the

46 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

safest ground. He then proceeds, planting his sticks as
often as may be necessary to mark the way, until he
reaches the opposite bank. The ford is thus ascertained,
and, if there are footmen in the party, they should cross
before the animals and wagons, as they pack the sand, and
make the track more firm and secure.

If the sand is soft, horses should be led across, and not
allowed to stop in the stream ; and the better to ensure
this, they should be watered before entering upon the
ford; otherwise, as soon as they stand still, their feet sink
in the sand,, and soon it becomes difficult to extricate them.
The same rule holds in the passage of wagons; they must
be driven steadily across, and the animals never allowed
to stop while in the river, as the wheels sink rapidly in
quicksand. Mules will often stop from fear, and when
once embarrassed in the sand, they lie down, and will not
use the slightest exertion to regain their footing. The
only alternative, then, is to drag them out with ropes. I
have even known some mules refuse to put forth the least
exertion to get up after being pulled out upon firm ground,
and it was necessary to set them upon their feet before they
were restored to a consciousness of their own powers.

In crossing rivers where the water is so high as to come
into the wagon-beds, but is not above a fording stage, the
contents of the wagons may be kept dry by raising the
beds between the uprights, and retaining them in that
position with blocks of wood placed at each corner, be
tween the rockers and the bottom of the wagon-beds. The
blocks must be squared at each end, and their length, of
course, should vary with the depth of water, which can
be determined before cutting them. This is a very common
and simple method of passing streams among emigrant
travelers.

When streams are deep, with a very rapid current, it
is difficult for the drivers to direct their teams to the
proper coming-out places, as the current has a tendency
to carry them too far down. This difficulty may be obvi^
ated by attaching a lariat rope to the leading animals, and
having a mounted man ride in front with the rope in his

FORDING A RIVER. 47

hand, to assist the team in stemming the current, and
direct it toward the point of egress. It is also a wise
precaution, if the ford be at all hazardous, to place a
mounted man on the lower side of the team with a whip,
to urge forward any animal that may not work properly.

When rivers are wide, with a swift current, they should
always, if possible, be forded obliquely down stream, as
the action of the water against the wagons, assists very
materially in carrying them across. In crossing the
North Platte upon the Cherokee trail at a season when the
water was high and very rapid, we were obliged to take
the only practicable ford, which ran diagonally up the
stream. The consequence was, that the heavy current,
coming down with great force against the wagons, offered
such powerful resistance to the efforts of the mules, that
it was with difficulty they could retain their footing; and
several were drowned. Had the ford crossed obliquely
down the river, there would have been no difficulty.

When it becomes necessary, with loaded wagons, to
cross a stream of this character against the current, I
would recommend that the teams be doubled, the leading
animals led, a horseman placed on each side with whips to
assist the driver, and that, before the first wagon enters
the water, a man should be sent in advance to ascertain
the best ford.

During seasons of high water, men, in traversing the
plains, often encounter rivers which rise above a fording
stage, and remain in that condition for many days, and to
await the falling of the water might involve a great loss
of time. If the traveler be alone, his only way is to swim
his horse; but if he retains the seat on his saddle, his
weight presses the animal down into the water, and cramps
his movements very sensibly. It is a much better plan to
attach a cord to the bridle-bit, and drive him into the
stream ; then, seizing his tail, allow him to tow you across.
If he turns out of the course, or attempts to turn back,
he can be checked with the cord, or by splashing water at
his head. If the rider remains in the saddle, he should
allow the horse to have a loose rein, and never pull upon

48

PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

it except wlien necessary to guide. If lie wishes to steady
himself, lie can lay hold upon the mane.

In travelling with large parties, the following expedients
for crossing rivers have been successfully resorted to within
my own experience ; and they are attended with no risk to
life or property.

A rapid and deep stream, with high, abrupt, and soft
banks, probably presents the most formidable array of un
favorable circumstances that can be found. Streams of
this character are occasionally met with, and it is impor
tant to know how to cross them with the greatest promp
titude and safety.

A train of wagons having arrived upon the bank of such
a stream, first select the best point for the passage, where
the banks upon both sides require the least excavation for
a place of ingress and egress to and from the river. As
I have before remarked, the place of entering the river
should be above the coming-out place on the opposite bank,
as the current will then assist in carrying wagons and

The line AB (the distance to be measurer!) is extended upon the batik to D, from which
point, after having- marked it, lay off equal distances, DC and Cd; produce BC to b, ma
king CB=Ci>; then extend the line db until it intersects the prolongation of the line
through CA at a. The distance between ab is equal to AB, or the width of the crossing.

FORDING RIVERS. 49

animals across. A spot should be sought where the bed
of the stream is firm at the place where the animals are
to get out on the opposite bank. If, however, no such
place can be found, brush and earth should be thrown in
to make a foundation sufficient to support the animals, and
to prevent them from bogging. After the place for crossing
has been selected, it will be important to determine the
breadth of the river between the points of ingress and
egress, in order to show the length of rope necessary to
reach across. A very simple practical method of doing
this without instruments, is found in the French "Manuel
du Genie." This is shewn in the accompanying Diagram.

A man who is an expert swimmer then takes the end of
a fishing-line or a small cord in his mouth, and carries it
across, leaving the other end fixed upon the opposite bank,
after which a lariat is attached to the cord, and one end of
it pulled across and made fast to a tree ; but if there is
nothing convenient to which the lariat can be attached, an
extra axle or coupling-pole can be pulled over by the man
who has crossed, firmly planted in the ground, and the
rope tied to it. The rope must be long enough to extend
twice across the stream, so that one end may always be left
on each shore. A very good substitute for a ferry-boat
may be made with a wagon-bed by filling it with empty
water- casks, stopped tight and secured in the wagon with
ropes, with a cask lashed opposite the centre of each out
side. It is then placed in the water bottom upwards, and
the rope that has been stretched across the stream attached
to one end of it, while another rope is made fast to the
other end, after which it is loaded, the shore-end loosened,
and the men on the opposite bank pull it across to the
landing, where it is discharged and returned for another
load, and so on until all the baggage and men are passed
over.

The wagons can be taken across by fastening them down
to the axles, attaching a rope to the end of the tongue,
and another to the rear of each to steady it and hold it
from drifting below the landing. It is then pushed into
the stream, and the men on the opposite bank pull it over.

50 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

I have passed a large train of wagons in this way across
a rapid stream fifteen feet deep without any difficulty. I
took, at the same time, a six-pounder cannon, which was
separated from its carriage, and ferried over upon the
wagon-boat ; after which the carriage was pulled over in
the same way as described for the wagons.

There are not always a sufficient number of air-tight
water-casks to fill a wagon-bed, but a tent-fly, paulin,
or wagon-cover can generally be had. In this event, the
wagon-bed may be placed in the centre of one of these,
the cloth brought up around the ends and sides, and se
cured firmly with ropes tied around transversely, and
another rope fastened lengthwise around under the rim.
This holds the cloth in its place, and the wagon may then
be placed in the water right side upward, and managed in
the same manner as in the other case. If the cloth be
made of cotton, it will soon swell so as to leak but very
little, and answers a very good purpose.

Another method of ferrying streams is by means of what
is called by the mountaineers a " Lull-boat" the frame
work of which is made of willows bent in the shape of a
short and wide skiff, with a flat bottom. Willows grow
upon the banks of almost all the streams on the prairies,
and can be bent into any shape desired. To make a boat
with but one hide, a number of straight willows are cut
about an inch in diameter, the ends sharpened and driven
into the ground, forming a frame-work in the shape of a
half egg-shell cut through the longitudinal axis. Where
these rods cross, they are firmly secured with strings. A
stout rod is then heated and bent around the frame in such
a position, that the edges of the hide, when laid over it and
drawn tight, will just reach it. This rod forms the gun
wale, which is secured by strings to the ribs. Small rods
are thea wattled in so as to make it symmetrical and strong.
After which the green or soaked hide is thrown over the
edges, sewed to the gunwales, and left to dry. The rods
are then cut off even with the gunwale, and the boat is
ready for use.

To build a boat with two or more hides ; a stout pole

FORDING RIVERS. 51

of the desired length is placed upon the ground for a keel,
the ends turned up and secured by a lariat ; willow rods of
the required dimensions are then cut, heated, and bent into
the proper shape for knees, after which their centres are
placed at equal distances upon the keel, and firmly tied
with cords. The knees are retained in their proper curva
ture by cords around the ends. After a sufficient number
of them have been placed upon the keel, two poles of
suitable dimensions are heated, bent around the ends for a
gunwale, and firmly lashed to each knee. Smaller willows
are then interwoven, so as to model the frame.

Green or soaked hides are cut into the proper shape to fit
the frame, and sewed together with buckskin strings ; then
the frame of the boat is placed in the middle, the hide
drawn up snug around the sides, and secured with raw-hide
thongs to the gunwale. The boat is then turned bottom
upwards and left to dry, after which the seams where they
have been sewed are covered with a mixture of melted tal
low and pitch : the craft is now ready for launching.

A boat of this kind is very light and serviceable, but
after a while becomes water- soaked, and should always be
turned bottom upward to dry whenever it is not in the
water. Two men can easily build a bull-boat of three
hides in two days which will carry ten men with perfect
safety.*

* A boat has been invented by Colonel R. C. Buchanan, of the
army, which has been used in several expeditions in Oregon and in
Washington Territory, and has been highly commended by several
experienced officers who have had the opportunity of giving its
merits a practical service test.

It consists of an exceedingly light framework of thin and narrow
boards, in lengths suitable for packing, connected by hinges, the
different sections folding into so small a compass as to be conve
niently carried upon mules. The frame is covered with a sheet of
stout cotton canvas, or duck, secured to the gunwales with a cord
running diagonally back and forth through eyelet-holes in the upper
edge.

When first placed in the water, the boat leaks a little ; but the
canvas soon swells so as to make it sufficiently tight for all practical
purposes. The great advantage to be derived from the use of this
boat is, that it is so compact and portable as to be admirably adapted

52 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

A small party traveling with a pack train, and arriving
upon the banks of a deep stream, will not always have the
time to stop or the means to make any of the boats that
have been described. Should their luggage be such as to
become seriously injured by a wetting, and there be an
India-rubber or gutta percha cloth disposable, or if even a
green beef or buffalo-hide can be procured, it may be
spread out upon the ground, and the articles of baggage
placed in the centre, in a square or rectangular form ; the
ends and sides are then brought up so as entirely to en
velop the package, and the whole secured with ropes or
raw hide. It is then placed in the water Avith a rope
attached to one end, and towed across by men in the same
manner as the boats before described. If hides be used,
they will require greasing occasionally, to prevent their
becoming water-soaked.

When a mounted party with pack animals arrives upon
the borders of a rapid stream, too deep to ford, and where
the banks are high and abrupt, with perhaps but one place
where the beasts can get out upon the opposite shore, it
would not be safe to drive or ride them in, calculating that
all will make the desired landing. Some of them will
probably be carried by the swift current too far down the
stream, and thereby endanger not only their own lives,
but the lives of their riders. I have seen the experiment
tried repeatedly, and have known several animals to be
carried by the current below the point of egress, and thus
drowned. Here is a simple, safe, and expeditious method
of taking animals over such a stream. Suppose, for

to the requirements of campaigning in a country where the streams
are liable to rise above a fording stage, and where the allowance of
transportation is small.

It may be put together or taken apart and packed in a very few
minutes; and one mule suffices to transport a boat, with all its ap
purtenances, capable of sustaining ten men.

Should the canvas become torn, it is easily repaired by putting on
a patch, and it does not rot or crack like India-rubber or gutta per
cha ; moreover, it is not affected by changes of climate or tempera
ture.

FORDING RIVERS. 53

example, a party of mounted men arrive upon the bank of
the stream. There will always be some good swimmers in
the party, and probably others who cannot swim at all.
Three or four of the most expert of these are selected, and
sent across with one end of a rope made of lariats tied
together, while the other end is retained upon the first
bank, and made fast to the neck of a gentle and good
swimming horse ; after which another gentle horse is
brought up and made fast by a lariat around his neck to
the tail of the first, and so on until all the horses are
thus tied together. The men who cannot swim are then
mounted upon the best swimming horses and tied on,
otherwise they are liable to become frightened, lose their
balance, and be carried away in a rapid current ; or a
horse may stumble and throw his rider. After the horses
have been strung out in a single line by their riders, and
everything is in readiness, the first horse is led carefully
into the water, while the men on the opposite bank,
pulling upon the rope, thus direct him across, and, if
necessary, aid him in stemming the current. As soon aa
this horse strikes the bottom he pulls upon those behind
him, and thereby assists in making the landing ; and in this
manner, all are passed over in perfect safety.*

DRIVING LOOSE HORSES.

In traveling with loose horses across the plains, some
persons are in the habit of attaching them in pairs by
their halters to a long stout rope, stretched between two
wagons drawn by mules, each wagon being about half
loaded. The principal object of the rear wagon being to
hold back and keep the rope stretched, not more than two
stout mules are required, as the horses aid a good deal
with their heads in pulling this wagon. From thirty to

* For finding fords, crossing streams, making rafts, ferries, and
coracles, and determining the breadth of rivers, the reader will con
sult the " Art of Travel," and " What to Observe," an excellent work
by the late Col. J. R. Jackson, F.R.S., etc. Third edition. Revised
and edited by Dr. Norton Shaw, M.D., etc., Acting Secretary to the
Royal Geographical Society of London. — ED.

54 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

forty horses may be driven very well in this manner, and,
if they are wild, it is perhaps the safest method, except
that of leading them with halters held by men riding
beside them. The rope to which the horses are attached
should be about an inch and a quarter in diameter, with
loops or rings inserted at intervals sufficient to admit the
horses without allowing them to kick each other, and the
halter straps tied to these loops. The horses, on first
starting, should have men by their sides, to accustom them
to this manner of being led. The wagons should be so
driven as to keep the rope continually stretched. Good
drivers must be assigned to these wagons, who will con
stantly watch the movements of the horses attached, as
well as their own teams.

I have had 150 loose horses driven by ten mounted
herdsmen. This requires great care for some considerable
time, until the horses become gentle and accustomed to
their herders. It is important to ascertain, as soon as
possible after starting, which horses are wild, and may be
likely to stampede and lead off the herd ; such should be
led, and never suffered to run loose, either on the march or
in camp. Animals of this character will soon indicate
their propensities, and can be secured during the first days
of the march. It is desirable that all animals that will
not stampede when not working should run loose on a
march, as they pick up a good deal of grass along the
road when traveling, and the success of an expedition,
when animals get no other forage but grass, depends in a
great degree upon the time given them for grazing. They
will thrive much better when allowed a free range than
when picketed, as they then are at liberty to select such
grass as suits them. It may, therefore, be set down as an
infallible rule never to be departed from, that all animals,
excepting such as will be likely to stampede, should be
turned loose for grazing immediately after arriving at the
camping-place ; but it is equally important that they
should be carefully herded as near the camp as good grass
will admit ; and those that it is necessary to picket should
be placed upon the best grass, and their places changed

METHOD OF MARCHING. 55

often. The ropes to which they are attached should be
about forty feet long ; the picket-pins, of iron, fifteen
inches long, with ring and swivel at top, so that the rope
shall not twist as the animal feeds around it ; and the pins
must be firmly driven into tenacious earth.

Animals should be herded during the day at such
distances as to leave sufficient grass undisturbed around
and near the camp for grazing through the night.

METHOD OF MARCHING.

Among men of limited experience in frontier-life will
be found a great diversity of opinion regarding the best
methods of marching, and of treating animals in expedi
tions upon the prairies. Some will make late starts and
travel during the heat of the day, without nooning, while
others will start early and make two marches, lying by
during the middle of the day ; some will picket their
animals continually in camp, while others will herd them
day and night, etc., etc. For mounted troops, or, indeed,
for any body of men traveling with horses and mules, a
few general rules may be specified which have the sanction
of mature experience ; and a deviation from them will in
evitably result in consequences highly detrimental to the
best interests of an expedition.

In ordinary marches through a country where grass and
water are abundant and good, animals receiving proper
attention should not fall away, even if they receive no
grain ; and, as I saicUbefore, they should not be made to
travel faster than a walk, unless absolutely necessary ;
neither should they be taken off the road for the purpose
of hunting or chasing buffalo, as one buffalo-chase injures
them more than a week of moderate riding. In the vi
cinity of hostile Indians, the animals must be carefully
herded and guarded, within protection of the camp, while
those picketed should be changed as often as the grass is
eaten off within the circle described by the tether-rope.
At night they should be brought within the chain of
sentinels and picketed as compactly as is consistent with
the space needed for grazing, and, under no circumstances

56 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

unless the Indians are known to be near and an attack is
to be expected, should they be tied up to a picket line
where they can get no grass. Unless allowed to graze at
night, they will fall away rapidly, and soon become un
serviceable. It is much better to march after nightfall,
turn some distance off the road, and to encamp without
fires in a depressed locality, where the Indians cannot
track the party, and the animals may be picketed without
danger.

In descending abrupt hills and mountains, one wheel of
a wagon should always be locked, as this relieves the
wheel animals, and makes everything more secure. When
the declivity is great, both rear wheels should be locked ;
and, if very abrupt, requiring great effort on the wheel
animals to hold the wagon, the wheels shoiild be rough-
looked by lengthening the lock-chains, so that the part
which goes around the wheels will come directly upon the
ground, and thus create more friction. Occasionally,
however, hills are met with so nearly perpendicular, that
it becomes necessary to attach ropes to the rear axle, and
to station men to hold back upon them and steady the
vehicle down the descent. Rough-locking is a very safe
method of passing heavy artillery down abrupt declivities.
There are several mountains between the Missouri River
and California, where it is necessary to resort to one of the
two last-mentioned methods in order to descend with
security. If there are no lock- chains upon wagons, the
front and rear wheels on the same Side may be tied to
gether with ropes, so as to lock them very firmly.

It is an old and well-established custom among men
experienced in frontier life, always to cross a stream upon
which it is intended to encamp for the night, and this rule
should never be departed from where a stream is to be
forded, as a rise during the night might detain the
traveler for several days in awaiting the fall of the
waters.*

* The hint is notably useful for Indian and African travellers.
And, generally, it is well to surmount an obstacle at the end of
a march, rather than reserve it for the next day, when precious
time may be wasted. — ED.

57

STORMS.

In "Western Texas, during the autumn and winter
months, storms arise very suddenly, and, when accom
panied by a north wind, are very severe upon men and
animals ; indeed, they are sometimes so terrific as to make
it necessary for travelers to hasten to the nearest sheltered
place to save the lives of their animals. When these
storms come from the north, they are called " northers ;"
and as, during the winter season, the temperature often
undergoes a sudden change of many degrees at the time
the storm sets in, the perspiration is checked, and the
system receives an instantaneous shock, against which it
requires great vital energy to bear up. Men and animals
are not, in this mild climate, prepared for these capricious
meteoric revolutions, and they not unfrequently perish
under their effects.

While passing near the head waters of the Colorado in
October, 1849, I left one of my camps at an early hour in
the morning under a mild and soft atmosphere, with a
gentle breeze from the south, but had marched only a
short distance when the wind suddenly whipped round
into the north, bringing with it a furious chilling rain,
and in a short time the road became so soft and heavy as
to make the labor of pulling the wagons over it very
exhausting upon the mules, and they came into camp in a
profuse sweat, with the rain pouring down in torrents
upon them.

They were turned out of harness into the most sheltered
place that could be found ; but, instead of eating, as was
their custom, they turned their heads from the wind, and
remained in that position, chilled and trembling, without
making the. least effort to move. The rain continued
with unabated fury during the entire day and night, and,
on the following morning, thirty-five out of 110 mules
had perished, while those remaining could hardly be
said to have had a spark of vitality left. They were
drawn up with the cold, and could with difficulty walk.
Tents and wagon-covers were cut up to protect them, and

58 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

they were then driven about for some time, until a little
vital energy was restored, after which they commenced
eating grass ; but it was three or four days before they
recovered sufficiently to resume the march.

The mistake I made was in driving the mules after the
" norther " had commenced. Had I gone immediately
into camp, before they became heated and wearied, they
would probably have eaten the grass, and this, I have 110
doubt, would have saved them ; but, as it was, their blood
became heated from overwork, and the sudden chill brought
on a reaction which proved fatal. If an animal will eat his
forage plentifully, there is but little danger of his perish
ing with cold. This I assert with much confidence, as I
once, when traveling with about 1500 horses and mules,
encountered the most terrific snow-storm that has been
known within the memory of the oldest mountaineers. It
commenced on the last day of April, and continued
without cessation for sixty consecutive hours. The day
had been mild and pleasant ; the green grass was about
six inches high ; the trees had put on their new leaves,
and nature conspired to show, that the sombre garb of
winter had been permanently superseded by the smiling
attire of spring. About dark, however, the wind turned
into the north ; it commenced to snow violently, and
increased until it became a frightful tempest, filling the
atmosphere with a dense cloud of driving snow, against
which it was impossible to ride or walk. Soon after
the storm set in, one herd of 300 horses and mules
broke away from the herdsmen who were around them,
and in spite of all their efforts, ran at full speed, directly
with the wind and snow, for fifty miles before they stopped.

Three of the herdsmen followed them as far as they
were able, but soon became exhausted and lost on the
prairie. One of them found his way back to camp in a
state of great prostration and suffering. One of the others
was found dead, and the third crawling about upon his
hands and knees, after the storm had ceased.

It happened, fortunately, that I had reserved a quantity
of corn to be used in the event of finding a scarcity of

STORMS. 59

grass, and as soon as the ground became covered with snow,
so that the animals could not get at the grass, I fed out
the corn, which I am induced to believe saved their lives.
Indeed, they did not seem at all affected by this prolonged
and unseasonable tempest. This occurred upon the summit
of the elevated ridge dividing the waters of the Arkansas
and South Platte Rivers, where storms are said to be of
frequent occurrence.

The greater part of the animals that stampeded were
recovered after the storm ; and, although they had
traveled a hundred miles at a very rapid pace, they did
not seem to be much affected by it.

60 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

CHAPTER IY.

Packing. — Saddles. — Mexican Method. — Madrina, or Bell-mare. — >
Attachment of the Mule illustrated. — Best Method of Packing. —
Hobbling Animals.— Selecting Horses and Mules.— Grama and
Bunch Grass. — European Saddles. — California!! Saddle. — Saddle
Wounds.— Alkali.— Flies.— Colic. — Rattlesnake Bites. — Cures for
the Bite.

PACKING AND DRIVING.

WITH a train of pack animals properly organized and
equipped, a party may travel with much comfort and
celerity. It is enabled to take short cuts, and move over
the country in almost any direction without regard to
roads. Mountains and broken ground may easily be tra
versed, and exemption is gained from many of the troubles
and detentions attendant upon the transit of cumbersome
wagon-trains."*

One of the most essential requisites to the outfit of a
pack train is a good pack-saddle. Various patterns are in
use, many of which are mere instruments of torture upon
the backs of the poor brutes, lacerating them cruelly, and
causing continued pain.

The Mexicans use a leathern pack-saddle without a tree.
It is stuffed with hay, and is very large, covering almost
the entire back, and extending far down the sides. It is
secured with a broad hair girth, and the load is kept in
position by a lash-rope drawn by two men so tight as to
give the unfortunate beast intense suffering.

* For information touching saddles of various sorts, packing
animals, tethering, hobbling, and knee-halteririg, the English reader
will refer to Mr. Gait on.— ED.

PACKING AND DRIVING. 61

A pack-saddle is made by T. Grimsley, No. 41, Main
Street, St. Louis, Mo. It is open at the top, with a light,
compact, and strong tree, which fits the animal's back well,
and is covered with raw hide, put on green, and drawn
tight by the contraction in drying. It has a leathern
breast-strap, breeching, and lash-strap, with a broad hair
girth fastened in the Mexican fashion. Of sixty-five of
these saddles that I used in crossing the Rocky Mountains,
over an exceedingly rough and broken section, not one of
them wounded a mule's back, and I regard them as the
best saddles I have ever seen.

GRIMSLEY 3 PACK-SADDLE.

No people, probably, are more familiar with the art of
packing than the Mexicans. They understand 'the habits,
disposition, and powers of the mule perfectly, and will get
more work out of him than any other men I have ever
seen. The mule and the donkey are to them as the camel
to the Arab — their porters over deserts and mountains
where no other means of transportation can be used to
advantage. The Spanish Mexicans are, however, cruel
masters, having no mercy upon their beasts, and it is no
uncommon thing for them to load their mules with the
enormous burden of 300 or 400 Ibs.

These muleteers believe, that, when the pack is firmly

62 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

lashed, the animal supports Ms burden better, and travels
with greater ease, which seems quite probable, as the ten
sion forms, as it were, an external sheath supporting and
bracing the muscles."* It also has a tendency to prevent
the saddle from slipping and chafing the mule's back.
With such huge car gas as the Mexicans load upon their
mules, it is impossible, by any precautions, to prevent their
backs and withers from becoming horribly mangled, and
it is common to see them working their animals day after
day in this miserable plight. This heavy packing causes
the scars that so often mark Mexican mules.

The animal, in starting out from camp in the morning,
groaning under the weight of his heavy burden, seems
hardly able to move ; but the pack soon settles, and so
loosens the lashing that after a short time he moves along
with more ease. Constant care and vigilance on the part
of the muleteers are necessary to prevent the packs from
working loose and falling off. The adjustment of a cargo.
upon a mule does not, however, detain the caravan, as the
others move on while it is being righted. If the mules are
suffered to halt, they are apt to lie down, and -it is very
difficult for them, with their loads, to rise ; besides, they
are likely to strain themselves in their efforts to do so.
The Mexicans, in traveling with large caravans, usually
make the day's march without nooning, as too much time
would be consumed in unloading and packing up again.

Packs, when taken off in camp, should be piled in a
row upon the ground, and, if there be a prospect of rain,
the saddles should be placed over them, and the whole
covered with the saddle-blankets or canvas.

The muleteers and herders should be mounted upon
well-trained horses, and be careful to keep the animals of
the caravan from wandering or scattering along the road.

* The art of packing is, firstly, a proper balance and adjustment
of packs ; secondly, a firm lashing of loads. For long journeys,
however, a strong mule should not carry more than 120 Ibs., and
asses about half. Mr. Galton gives for the ass 65 Ibs. ; the small
mule 90 Ibs. ; the horse 100 Ibs. ; and the ox 120 Ibs. But he, pro-
. bably, never saw the Mexican or Californian mule. — ED.

PACKING AND DRIVING. 63

This can easily be done by having some of the men riding
upon each side, and others in rear of the caravan.

In herding mules, it is customary among prairie
travelers to have a bell-mare, to which the mules soon be
come so attached, that they will follow her wherever she
goes. By keeping her in charge of one of the herdsmen,
the herds are easily controlled ; and during a stampede, if
the herdsman mounts her, and rushes ahead toward camp,
they will generally follow.

In crossing rivers the bell-mare should pass first, after
which the mules are easily induced to take to the water
and pass over, even if they have to swim. Mules are
good swimmers unless they happen, by plunging off a
high bank, to get water in their ears, when they are often
drowned. Whenever a mule in the water drops his ears,
it is a sure indication that he has water in them, and he
should be taken out as soon as possible. To prevent
accidents of this nature, where the water is deep and the
banks abrupt, the mule-herds should be allowed to enter
slowly, and without crowding, as otherwise they are not
only likely to get their heads under water, but to throw
each other over and get injured.

The madrina, or bell-mare, acts a most important part
in a herd of mules, and is regarded by experienced cam
paigners as indispensable to their security. She is selected
for her quiet and regular habits. She will not wander
far from the camp. If she happen to have a colt by her
side, this is no objection, as the mules soon form the most
devoted attachment to it. I have often seen them leave
their grazing when very hungry, and flock around a small
colt, manifesting their delight by rubbing it with their
noses, licking it with their tongues, kicking up their heels,
and making a variety of other grotesque demonstrations
of affection, while the poor little colt, perfectly unconscious
of the cause of these ungainly caresses, stood trembling
with fear, but unable to make his escape from the com
pact circle of his mulish admirers. Horses and asses are
also used as bell-animals, and the mules soon become
accustomed to following them. If a man leads or rides a

64 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

bell-aniinal in advance, the mules follow, like so many
dogs, in the most orderly procession.

" After traveling about fourteen miles/' says Bayard
Taylor, " we were joined by three miners, and our mules,
taking a sudden liking for their horses, jogged on at a
more brisk pace. The instincts of the mulish heart form
an interesting study to the traveler in the mountains. I
would (were the comparison not too ungallant) liken it to
a woman's, for it is quite as uncertain in its sympathies,
bestowing its affections when least expected, and, when
bestowed, quite as constant, so long as the object is not
taken away. Sometimes a horse, sometimes an ass, capti
vates the fancy of a whole drove of mules, but often an
animal nowise akin. Lieutenant Beale told me that his
whole train of mules once galloped off suddenly, on the
plains of the Cimarone, and ran half a mile, when they
halted in apparent satisfaction. The cause of their freak
was found to be a buffalo calf which had strayed from the
herd. They were frisking around it in the greatest
delight, rubbing their noses against it, throwing up their
heels, and making themselves ridiculous by abortive
attempts to neigh and bray, while the calf, unconscious of
its attractive qualities, stood trembling in their midst."

" If several large troops," says Charles Darwin, " are
turned into one field to graze in the morning, the mule
teer has only to lead the madrinas a little apart and tinkle
their bells, and, although there may be 200 or 300 mules
together, each immediately knows its own bell, and
separates itself from the rest. The affection of these
animals for their madrina saves infinite trouble. It is
nearly impossible to lose an old mule, for, if detained
several hours by force, she will, by the power of smell,
like a dog, track out her companions, or rather the
madrina ; for, according, to the muleteer, she is the chief
object of affection. The feeling, however, is not of an
individual nature ; for I believe I am right in saying that
any animal with a bell will serve as a madrina."

Of the attachment that a mule will form for a horse, I
will cite an instance from my own observation, which

PACKING AND DRIVING. 65

struck me at the time as being one of the most remarkable
and touching evidences of devotion that I have ever
known among the brute creation.

On leaving Fort Leavenworth with the army for Utah
in 1857, one of the officers rode a small mule, whose kind
and gentle disposition soon caused him to become a
favorite among the soldiers, and they named him " Billy."
As this officer and myself were often thrown together
upon the march, the mule, in the course of a few days,
evinced a growing attachment for a mare that I rode.
The sentiment was not, however, reciprocated on her part,
and she intimated as much by the reversed position of
her ears, and the free exercise of her feet and teeth
whenever Billy came within her reach ; but these signal
marks of displeasure, instead of discouraging, rather
seemed to increase his devotion, and whenever at liberty
he invariably sought to get near her, and appeared much
distressed when not permitted to follow her.

On leaving Camp Scott for New Mexico, Billy was
among the number of mules selected for the expedition.
During the march I was in the habit, when starting out
from camp in the morning, of leading off the party, and
directing the packmen to hold the mule until I should get
so far in advance with the mare that he could not see us ;
but the moment he was released, he would, in spite of all
the efforts of the packers, start off at a most furious pace,
and never stop or cease braying until he reached the mare's
side. We soon found it impossible to keep him with the
other mules, and he was finally permitted to have his own
way.

In the course of time we encountered the deep snows in
the Rocky Mountains, where the animals could get no for
age, and Billy, in common with the others, at length be
came so weak and jaded that he was unable any longer to
leave his place in the caravan and break a track through
the snow around to the front. He made frequent attempts
to turn out and force his way ahead, but after numerous
unsuccessful efforts he would fall down exhausted, and set
up a most mournful braying.

66 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

The other mules soon began to fail, and to be left, worn
out and famished, to die by the wayside; it was not, how
ever, for some time that Billy showed symptoms of be
coming one of the victims, until one evening after our
arrival at camp I was informed that he had dropped down
and been left upon the road during the day. The men all
deplored his loss exceedingly, as his devotion to the mare
had touched their kind hearts, and many expressions of
sympathy were uttered around their bivouac fires on that
evening.

Much to our surprise, however, about ten o'clock, just
as we were about going to sleep, we heard a mule braying
about half a mile to the rear upon our trail. Sure enough,
it proved to be Billy, who, after having rested, had fol
lowed upon our track and overtaken us. As soon as he
reached the side of the mare he lay down and seemed
perfectly contented.

The next day I relieved him from his pack, and allowed
him to run loose ; but during the march he gave out, and
was again abandoned to his fate, and this time we certainly
never expected to see him more. To our great astonish
ment, however, about twelve o' clock that night the sonorous
but not very musical notes of Billy in the distance aroused
us from our slumbers, and again announced his approach.
In an instant the men were upon their feet, gave three
hearty cheers, and rushed out in a body to meet and escort
him into camp.

But this well-meant ovation elicited no response from
him. He came reeling and floundering along through the
deep snow, perfectly regardless of these honors, pushing
aside all those who occupied the trail or interrupted his
progress in the least, wandered about until he found the
mare, dropped down by her side, and remained until
morning.

When we resumed our march on the following day he
made another desperate effort to proceed, but soon fell
down exhausted, when we reluctantly abandoned him, and
saw him no more.

The articles to be transported should be made up into

PACKING AND DRIVING. 67

two packages of precisely equal weight, and as nearly
equal in bulk as practicable, otherwise they will sway the
saddle over to one side, and cause it to chafe the animal's
back.

The packages made, two ropes about six feet long are
fastened around the ends by a slip-knot, and if the pack
ages contain corn or other articles that will shift about,
small sticks should be placed between the sacks and the
ropes, which equalizes the pressure and keeps the packages
snug. The ropes are then looped at the ends, and made
precisely of the same length, so that the packs will balance
and come up well toward the top of the saddle. Two
men, then, each taking a pack, go upon opposite sides of
the mule, that has been previously saddled, and, raising
the packs simultaneously, place the loops over the pommel
and cantel, settling them well down into their places. The
lashing-strap is then thrown over the top, brought through
the rings upon each side, and drawn as tight at every turn
as the two men on the sides can pull it, and, after having
been carried back and forth diagonally across the packs as
often as its length admits (generally three or four times),
it is made fast to one of the rings, and securely tied in a
slip-knot.

The breast-strap and breeching must not be buckled so
close as to chafe the skin ; the girth should be broad and
soft where it comes opposite the fore-legs, to prevent cut
ting them. Leather girths should be wrapped with cloth
or bound with soft material. The hair girth, being soft
and elastic, is much better than leather.

The crupper should never be dispensed with in a moun
tainous country, but it must be soft, round, and about an
inch in diameter where it comes in contact with the tail,
otherwise it will wound the animal in making long and
abrupt descents.

In Norway they use a short round stick, about ten
inches long, which passes under the tail, and from each
end of this a cord connects with the saddle.*

* This is an excellent " wrinkle " (borrowed from the " Art of
Travel,") to prevent chafing, which, in hot damp climates, soon dis
ables the pluckiest animals." — ED.

68 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

Camp-kettles, tin vessels, and other articles that will
rattle and be likely to frighten animals, should be firmly
lashed to the packs. When the packs work loose, the
lash-straps should be untied, and a man upon each side
draw it up again and make it fast. When ropes are used
for lashing, they may be tightened by twisting them with
a short stick and making the stick fast.

One hundred and twenty- five pounds is a sufficient load
for a mule upon a long journey.

In traveling over a rocky country, and upon all long
journeys, horses and mules should be shod, to prevent their
hoofs wearing out or breaking. The mountaineers contend
that beasts travel better without shoeing, but I have seve
ral times had occasion to regret the omission of this very
necessary precaution. A few extra shoes and nails, with a
small hammer, will enable travelers to keep their animals
shod.

In turning out pack animals to graze, it is well either
to keep the lariat ropes upon them with the ends trailing
upon the ground, or to hopple them, as no corral can be
made into which they may be driven in order to catch
them. A very good way to catch an animal without driv
ing him into an inclosure is for two men to take a long
rope and stretch it out at the height of the animal's neck ;
some men then drive him slowly up against it, when one
of the men with the rope runs round behind the animal
and back to the front again, thus taking a turn with the
rope round his neck and holding him secure.

To prevent an animal from kicking, take a forked stick
and make the forked part fast to the bridle-bit, bringing
the two ends above the head, and securing them there,
leaving the part of the stick below the fork of sufficient
length to reach near the ground when the animal's head
is in its natural position. He cannot kick up unless he
lowers his head, and the stick effectually prevents that.

Tether-ropes should be so attached to the neck of the
animal as not to slip and choke him, and the picket -pins
never be left on the ropes except when in the ground, as,

PACKING AND DRIVING. 69

in the event of a stampede, they are very likely to swing
round and injure the animals.

Many experienced travelers were formerly in the habit
of securing their animals with a strap or iron ring fastened
around the fetlock of one fore foot, and this attached
to the tether-rope. This method holds the animal very
securely to the picket-pin, but when the rope is first put
on, and before he becomes accustomed to it, he is liable to
throw himself down and get hurt ; so that I think the
plan of tethering by the neck or halter is the safest,
and, so far as I have observed, is now universally prac
tised.

The mountaineers and Indians seldom tether their ani
mals, but prefer the plan of hoppling, as this gives them
more latitude for ranging and selecting the choicest
grass.

Two methods of hoppling are practised among the In
dians and hunters of the West : one with a strap about
two feet long buckling around the fore legs above the fet
lock joints ; the other is what they term the " side hopple"
which is made by buckling a strap around a fore and rear
leg upon the same side. In both cases care should be
taken not to buckle the strap so tight as to chafe the legs.
The latter plan is the best, because the animal, side-hop
pled, is able to go but little faster than a walk, while
the front hopple permits him, after a little practice, to
gallop off at considerable speed. If the hopples are made
of iron connected with chains, like handcuffs, with locks
and keys, it will be impossible for the Indians, without
files, to cut them ; but the parts that come in contact with
the legs should be covered with soft leather.

" A horse," says Mr. Galton, " may be hoppled* with a
stirrup-leather by placing the middle around one leg, then
twisting it several times and buckling it round the other
leg. When you wish to picket horses in the middle of a
sandy plain, dig a hole two or three feet deep, and, tying
your rope to a fagot of sticks or brushwood, or even to a
bag filled with sand, bury this in it."

a The Englishman, however, spello the word "hobbled." — ED.

70 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

For prairie service, horses which have been raised ex
clusively upon grass, and never been fed upon grain — or
" range horses," as they are called in the West — are decided
ly the best, and will perform more hard labor than those
that have been stabled and groomed. The large, stout
ponies found among some of our frontier settlements are
well adapted to this service, and endure admirably. The
same remarks hold good in the choice of mules ; and it
will be found that the square-built, big-bellied, and short-
legged Mexican mule will endure far more hard service,
on short allowance of forage, than the larger American
mule w^hich has been accustomed to grain."*

* In traveling through deep snow, horses will be found much
better than mules, as the latter soon become discouraged, lie down,
and refuse to put forth the least exertion, while the former will work
as long as their strength holds out.

When the snow is dry, and not deeper than 2^ feet, horses in good
condition will walk through it without much difficulty, and throw
aside the snow so as to open quite a track. If there are several
horses they should be changed frequently, as the labour upon the
leading one is very severe. When the snow is deeper than 2£ feet,
it becomes very difficult for animals to wade through it, and they
soon weary and give out. The best plan, under such circumstances
(and it is the one I adopted in crossing the Rocky Mountains, where
the snow was from two to five feet upon the ground), is to place all
the disposable men in advance of the animals to break the track,
requiring them to alternate from front to rear at regular intervals
of time. In this manner a track is beaten, over which animals pass
with comparative ease.

When the snow increases to about four feet, it is impossible for
the leading men to walk erect through it, and two or three of them
are compelled to crawl upon their hands and knees, all being careful
to place their hands and feet in the same holes that have been made
by those in advance. This packs the snow so that it will sustain
the others walking erect, and after 20 or 30 have passed it becomes
sufficiently firm to bear up the animals. This, of course, is an ex
ceedingly laborious and slow process, but it is the only alternative
when a party finds itself in the midst of very deep snows in a wilder
ness. Animals, in walking over such a track as has been mentioned,
will soon acquire the habit of placing their feet in the holes that
have been made by the men ; and, indeed, if they lose the step or
miss the holes, they will fall down or sink to their bellies.

Early in the winter, when the snow first falls in the Rocky Moun
tains, it is so light and dry that snow-shoes cannot be used to advan-

PACKING AND DRIVING. 71

In our trip across the Rocky Mountains, we had both the
American and Mexican mules ; and improved a good op
portunity of giving their relative powers of endurance a
thorough service-trial. For many days they were reduced
to a meagre allowance of dry grass, and at length got no
thing but pine leaves, while their work in the deep snow
was exceedingly severe. This soon told upon the Ameri
can mules, and all of them, with the exception of two, died,
while most of the Mexican mules went through. The re
sult was perfectly conclusive.

We found that, where the snow was not more than two

tage. We tried the experiment when we crossed the mountains in
December and January, but found it impossible to walk upon them.

Should a party, in a country where the snow is deep, have the
misfortune to lose its animals by freezing, the journey cannot be con
tinued for any great length of time without devising some method
of transporting subsistence besides that of carrying it upon the backs
of men, as they are unable to break a track through deep snow when
loaded down in this way.

The following plan has suggested itself to me as being the most
feasible, and it is the one I resolved to adopt in the event of losing
our mules faster than we required them for subsistence when we
passed the Mountains.

Take willow, or other flexible rods, and make long sleds, less in
width than the track, securing the cross-pieces with raw-hide
thongs. Skin the animals, and cut the hides into pieces to fit the
bottom of the sleds, and make them fast, with the hair on the upper
side. Attach a raw-hide thong to the front for drawing it, and it is
complete. In a very cold climate the hide soon freezes, becomes
very solid, and slips easily over the snow. The meat and other ar
ticles to be transported are then placed upon the sled so as not to
project over the sides, and lashed firmly. Lieutenant Cresswell, who
was detached from Captain M'Clure's ship in the Arctic regions in
1853, says his men dragged 200 pounds each upon sledges over the
ice. They could not, of course, pull as much over deep snow; but it
is believed that they would have no difficulty in transporting half
this amount, which would be sufficient to keep them from starvation
at least fifty days.

I am quite confident, that a party of men who find themselves in
volved in deep snow, dependent solely upon their own physical
powers, and without beasts of burden, can prolong their lives for a
greater time, travel farth.er, and perform more labour by adopting
the foregoing suggestions than in any other way.

72 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

feet deep, the animals soon learned to paw it away and get
at the grass. Of course they do not get sufficient in this
way ; but they do much better than one would suppose.

In Utah and New Mexico, the autumn is so dry that the
grass does not lose its nutritious properties by being washed
with rains. It gradually dries and cures like hay, so that
animals eat it freely, and will fatten upon it even in mid
winter. It is seldom that any grain is fed to stock in
either of these territories.*

Several of the varieties of grass growing upon the slopes
of the Rocky Mountains are of excellent quality ; among
these may be mentioned the Gramma and bunch grasses.
Horses and mules turned out to graze always prefer the
grass upon the mountain sides to grass of the valleys.

We left New Mexico about the 1st of March, six weeks
before the new grass appeared, with 1500 animals, many
of them low in flesh, yet they improved upon the journey,
and on their arrival in Utah were all, with very few ex
ceptions, in fine working condition. Had this march been
made at the same season in the country bordering upon
the Missouri River, where there are heavy autumnal rains,
the animals would probably have become very poor.

In this journey, the herds were allowed to range over
the best grass that could be found, but were guarded both
night and day with great care, whereas, if they had been
corraled or picketed at night, I dare say they would have
lost flesh.f

* I brought home a specimen of " bunch-grass " for trial in the
sandy landes about Aldershott. — ED.

f Some curious and interesting experiments are said to have
been recently made at the veterinary school at Alfort, near Paris, by
order of the minister of war, to ascertain the powers of endur
ance of horses. It appears, that a horse will live on water
alone five-and-twenty days ; seventeen days without eating or drink
ing ; only five days if fed and unwatered ; ten days, if fed and in
sufficiently watered. A horse kept without water for three days,
drank 104 Ibs. of water in three minutes. It was found, that a
horse taken immediately after feed, and kept in the active exercise
of the squadron school, completely digested its food in three hours ;
in the same time, in the conscript's school, its food was two-thirds
digested ; and, if kept perfectly quiet in the stable, its digestion was
scarcely commenced in three hours.— AUTHOR.

73

SADDLES.

Great diversity of opinion exists regarding the best
equipment for horses, and the long-mooted question is
as yet very far from being definitely settled.

1 do not regard the opinions of Europeans as having a
more direct bearing upon this question, or as tending to
establish any more definite and positive conclusions re
garding it than have been developed by the experience of
our own border citizens, the major part of whose lives has
been spent in the saddle ; yet I am confident, that the fol
lowing brief description of the horse equipments used in
different parts of Europe, the substance of which I have
extracted from Captain M'Clellan's interesting report, will
be read with interest and instruction. The saddle used by
the African chasseurs consists of a plain wooden tree, with
a pad upon the top, but without skirts, and is somewhat
similar to our own military saddle, but lower in the pom
mel and cantle. The girth and surcingle are of leather,
with an ordinary woollen saddle blanket. Their bridle
has a single head- stall, with the Spanish bit buckled to it.

A new saddle has recently been introduced into the
French service by Captain Cogent, the tree of which is
cut out of a single piece of wood, the cantle only being
glued on, and a piece of walnut let into the pommel, with
a thin strip veneered upon the front ends of the bars.
The pommel and cantle are lower than in the old model ;
the whole is covered with a wet raw hide, glued on and
sewed at the edges. The great advantage this saddle
possesses, is in being so arranged that it may be used for
horses of all sizes and conditions. The saddle-blanket is
made of thick felt cloth, and is attached to the pommel by
a small strap passing through holes in the blanket, which
is thus prevented from slipping, and at the same time it
raises the saddle so as to admit a free circulation of air
over the horse's spine.

The Hungarian saddle is made of hard wood, entirely
uncovered, with a raised pommel and cantle. The seat is
formed with a leather strap four inches wide, nailed to the

74 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

forks on the front and rear, and secured to the side-boards
by leather thongs, thus giving an elastic and easy saddle-
seat. This is also the form of the saddle-tree used by the
Russian and Austrian cavalry. The Russians have a
leather girth fastened by three small buckles : it passes
over the tree, and is tied to the side boards. The saddle-
blanket is of stout felt cloth, in four thicknesses, and a
layer of black leather over it, and the whole held together
by leather thongs passing through and through. When
the horse falls off in flesh, more thicknesses are added, and
vice versa. This saddle-blanket is regarded by the Russian
officers as the best possible arrangement. The Russians
use the curb and snaffle-bits made of steel.

The Cossack- saddle has a thick padding under the side
boards, and on the seat, which raises the rider very high
on his horse, so that his feet are above the bottom of the
belly. Their bridle has but a simple snaffle-bit, and no
martingale.

The Prussian cuirassiers have a heavy saddle with a low
pommel and cantle, covered with leather ; but it is not
thought by Captain M'Clellan to present anything worthy
of imitation.

The other Prussian cavalry ride the Hungarian saddle,
of a heavier model than the one in the Austrian service.
The surcingle is of leather, and fastens in the Mexican
style ; the girth is also of leather, three and a half inches
wide, with a large buckle. It is in two parts, attached to
the bars by raw hide thongs. The curb and snaffle steel
bits are used, and attached to a single head-stall.

The English cavalry use a saddle which has a lower
cantle and pommel than our Grimsley saddle, covered with
leather. The snaffle-bit is attached to the halter head
stall by a chain and T ; the curb has a separate head-stall,
which, on a march is occasionally taken off and hung on
the carbine stock.

The Sardinian saddle has a bare wooden tree very
similar to the Hungarian. A common blanket, folded in
twelve thicknesses, is placed under it. The girth and
surcingle are of leather.

SADDLES. 75

Without expressing any opinion as to the comparative
merits of these different saddles, I may be permitted to
give a few general principles, which I regard as infallible
in the choice of a saddle.

The side-boards should be large, and made to conform
to the shape of the horse's back, thereby distributing the
burden over a large surface. It should stand up well
above the spine, so as to admit a free circulation of air
under it.

For long journeys, the crupper, where it comes in con
tact with the tail, should be made of soft leather. It
should be drawn back only far enough to hold the saddle
from the withers. Some horses require much more ten
sion upon the crupper than others. The girth should be
made broad, of a soft and elastic material. Those made
of hair, in use among the Mexicans, fulfil the pre-cited
conditions.

A light and easy bit, which will not fret or chafe the
horse, is recommended.

The saddle-blanket must be folded even and smooth, and
placed on so as to cover every part of the back that comes
in contact with the saddle, and in warm weather it is well
to place a gunny bag under the blanket, as it is cooler
than the wool.

It will have been observed, that, in the French service,
the folded saddle-blanket is tied to the pommel to prevent
it slipping back. This is well, if the blanket be taken off
and thoroughly dried whenever the horse is unsaddled.

A saddle-blanket made of moss is used in some of the
South-western States, which is regarded by many as the
perfection of this article of horse equipment. It is a mat
woven into the proper shape and size from the beaten
fibres of moss that hangs from the trees in our Southern
States.* It is cheap, durable, is not in any way affected
by sweat, and does not chafe or heat the horse's spine like
the woolen blanket. Its open texture allows a rapid

* The well-known Tillandsia Usneoides of the Southern States,
popularly called "Absalom's Hair."— ED.

76

PRAIRTE TRAVELER.

evaporation, which tends to keep the back cool, and
obviates the danger of stripping and sudden exposure of
the heated parts to the sun and air.

The experience of some of our officers, who have used
this mat for years in Mexico and Texas, corroborates all I
have said in its favor ; and they are unanimous in the
opinion, that a horse will never get a sore back when it is
placed under a good saddle.

A saddle made by the Mexicans in California is called
the California saddle. This is extensively used upon the
Pacific slope of the mountains, and is believed to possess,
at least, as many advantages for rough frontier service as
any other pattern that has been invented. Those hardy
and experienced veterans, the mountaineers, could not be
persuaded to ride on any other saddle, and their ripened
knowledge of such matters certainly gives weight to their
conclusions.

CALIFORNIA SADDLE.

SADDLES. 77

The merits of the California saddle consist in its being
light, strong, and compact, and conforming well to the
shape of the horse. When strapped on, it rests so firmly in.
position that the strongest pull of a horse upon a lariat
attached to the pommel cannot displace it. Its shape is
such, that the rider is compelled to sit nearly erect, with
his legs on the continuation of the line of the body, which
makes his seat more secure, and at the same time, gives
him a better control over his arms and horse. This
position is attained by setting the stirrup-leathers farther
back than on the old-fashioned saddle. The pommel is
high, like the Mexican saddle, and prevents the rider
from being thrown forward. The tree is covered with
raw hide, put on green, and sewed ; when this dries and
contracts, it gives it great strength. It has no iron in its
composition, but is kept together by buckskin strings, and
can easily be taken to pieces for mending or cleaning. It
has a hair girth about five inches wide.

The whole saddle is covered with a large and thick
sheet of sole- leather, having a hole to lay over the pommel ;
it extends back over the horse's hips, and protects them
from rain ; and, when taken off in camp, it furnishes a good
security against dampness when placed under the traveler's
bed.

The California saddle-tree is regarded by many as the
best of all others for the horse's back, and as having an
easier seat than the Mexican.*

General Comte de la Roche- Aymon, in his treatise upon
" Light Troops," published in Paris in 1856, says :—

" In nearly all the European armies, the equipment of
the horse is not in harmony with the new tactics — with
those tactics in which, during nearly all of a campaign,
the cavalry remains in bivouac. Have we reflected upon
the kind of saddle which, under these circumstances,

I have given my opinion of the California Saddle in the City
of the Saints, chap. i. It has many advantages for a prairie
country ; none for rough ground, except the facility with which it
it injures the rider. And, finally, it is too expensive for general
use.— ED.

78 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

would cover the horse best without incommoding him
during the short periods that he is permitted to repose ?
Have we reflected upon the kind of saddle which, offering
the least fragility, exposes the horse to the least danger of
sore back ? All the cuirassiers and the dragoons of
Europe have saddles which they call French saddles, the
weight of which is a load for the horse. * The interior
mechanism of these saddles is complicated and filled with
weak bands of iron, which become deranged, bend, and
sometimes break. The rider does not perceive these acci
dents, or he does not wish to perceive them, for fear of
being left behind or of having to go on foot ; he continues
on, and, at the end of a day's march, his horse has a sore
back, and in a few days is absolutely unserviceable. "We
may satisfy ourselves of the truth of these observations, by
comparing the lists of horses sent to the rear during the
course of a campaign by the cuirassiers and dragoons who
use the French saddle, and by the hussars with the
Hungarian saddle. The number sent to the rear by the
latter is infinitely less, although employed in a service
much more active and severe ; and it might be still less by
making some slight improvements in their manner of
fixing the saddle upon the horse.

"It is a long time since Marshal Saxe said, there was
but one kind of saddle fit for cavalry, which was the hus
sar saddle : this combined all advantages, lightness, solidity,
and economy. It is astonishing that the system of actual
war had not led to the employment of the kind of saddle
in use among the Tartars, the Cossacks, the Hungarians,
and, indeed, among all horsemen and nomads. This saddle
has the incontestable advantage of permitting the horse to

* During the Napoleonic landing in Egypt, a French dragoon was
made prisoner, and his arms and accoutrements were forwarded to
the Head Quarters of the Mameluke Beys, who, calling together
their followers, drew the happiest augury from the ridiculous
spectacle that lay on the ground before them. For long and hard
riding, especially when the exercise is not habitual, nothing equals
the Arab or Eastern pad, covered with leather and furnished with
shovel iron stirrups. — ED.

SADDLES. 79

lie down and rest himself without inconvenience. If, not
withstanding the folded blanket which they place under
the Hungarian saddle, this saddle will still wound the
animal's back sometimes, this only proceeds from the
friction occasioned by the motion of the horse and the
movement of the rider upon the saddle ; a friction which
it will be nearly impossible to avoid, inasmuch as the
saddle-bow is held in its place only by a surcingle, the
ends of which are united by a leathern band : these bands
always relax more or less, and the saddle becomes loose.
To remedy this, I propose to attach to the saddle bow it
self a double girth, one end of which shall be made fast to
the arch in front, and the other end to the rear of the
arch upon the right side, to unite in a single girth, which
would buckle to a strap attached upon the left side in the
usual manner. This buckle will hold the saddle firmly in
its place.

" Notwithstanding all these precautions, however, there
were still some inconveniences resulting from the nature
of the blanket placed under the saddle, which I sought to
remedy, and I easily accomplished it. The woolen nap of
the cavalry saddle-blanket, not being carefully attended
to, soon wears off, and leaves only the rough, coarse threads
of the fabric ; this absorbs the sweat from the horse, and,
after it has dried and become hard, it acts like a rasp upon
the withers, first taking off the hair, next the skin, and
then the flesh, and finally, the beast is rendered unser
viceable.

" I sought, during the campaign of 1807, a means to
remedy this evil ; and I soon succeeded by a process as
simple as it was cheap. I distributed among a great
number of cavalry soldiers pieces of linen cloth folded
double, two feet square, and previously dipped in melted
tallow. This cloth was laid next to the horse's back, under
the saddle-blanket, and it prevented all the bad effects of
the woolen blanket. No horses, after this appliance, were
afflicted with sore backs. Such are the slight changes
which I believe should be made in the use of the Hunga
rian saddle. The remainder of the equipment should

80 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

remain (as it always has been) composed of a breast-strap,
crupper, and martingale, etc.''

The improvements of the present age do not appear to
have developed any thing advantageous to the saddle ; on
the contrary, after experimenting upon numerous modifi
cations and inventions, public sentiment has at length
given the preference to the saddle-tree of the natives in
Asia and America, which is very similar to that of the
Hungarians.

SORES AMD DISEASES.

If a horse be sweating at the time he is unsaddled, it is
well to strap the folded saddle-blanket upon his back with
the surcingle, where it is allowed to remain until he is
perfectly dry. This causes the back to cool gradually, and
prevents scalding or swelling. Some persons are in the
habit of washing their horses' backs while heated and
sweating with cold water; but this is pernicious, and often
produces sores. It is well enough to wash the back after
it cools, but not before. After horses' backs or shoulders
once become chafed and sore, it is very difficult to heal
them, particularly when they are continued at work. It
is better, if practicable, to stop using them for a while, and
wash the bruised parts often with Castile soap and water.
Should it be necessary, however, to continue the animal in
use, I have known very severe sores entirely healed by the
free application of grease to the parts immediately after
halting, and while the animal is warm and sweating. This
seems to harden the skin and heal the wound, even when
working with the collar in contact with it. A piece of
bacon rind tied upon the collar over the wound, is also an
excellent remedy.

In Texas, where the horse-flies are numerous, they
attack animals without mercy, and where a contusion is
found in the skin they deposit eggs, which speedily pro
duce worms in great numbers. I have tried the effect of
spirits of turpentine and several other remedies ; but
nothing seemed to have the desired effect but calomel

SORES AND DISEASES. 81

blown into the wound, which destroyed the worms and
soon effected a cure.

In the vicinity of the Pass upon the Ilumboldt River,
and in some sections upon other routes to California, alka
line water is found, which is very poisonous to animals
that drink it, and generates a disease known in California
as " alkali" This disease first makes it appearance by
swellings upon the abdomen and between the fore legs,
and is attended with a cough, which ultimately destroys
the lungs and kills the animal. If taken at an early stage,
this disease is curable, and the following treatment is
generally considered as the most efficacious. The animal
is first raked, after which a large dose of grease is poured
down its throat ; acids are said to have the same effect,
and give immediate relief. When neither of these reme
dies can be procured, many of the emigrants have been in
the habit of mixing starch or flour in a bucket of water,
and allowing the animal to drink it. It is supposed that
this forms a coating over the mucous membrane, and thus
defeats the action of the poison.

Animals should never be allowed to graze in the vicinity
of alkaline water, as the deposits upon the grass* after
floods are equally deleterious with the water itself.

In seasons when the water is low in the Humboldt
Hiver, there is much less danger of the alkali, as the
running water in the river then comes from pure moun
tain springs, and is confined to the channel ; Avhereas,
during high water, when the banks are overflowed, the
salts are dissolved, making the water more impure.

For colic, a good remedy is a mixture of two table-
spoonfuls of brandy and two tea-spoonfuls of laudanum
dissolved in a bottle of water and poured down the
animal's throat. Another remedy, which has been
recommended to me by an experienced officer as produc
ing speedy relief, is a table- spoonful of chloride of lime
dissolved in a bottle of water, and administered as in the
other case.

BATTLE-SNAKE BITES.
Upon the southern routes to California rattle- snakes are

G

82 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

often met with, but it is seldom that any person is bitten
by them. Yet this is a possible contingency, and it can
never be amiss to have an antidote at hand.

Hartshorn applied externally to the wound, and drunk
in small quantities diluted with water whenever the
patient becomes faint or exhausted from the effects of the
poison, is one of the most common remedies.

In the absence of all medicines, a string or ligature
should at once be bound firmly above the puncture, then
scarify deeply with a knife, suck out the poison, and spit
out the saliva.

Andersson, in his book on South-western Africa, says :
" In the Cape Colony the Dutch farmers resort to a cruel
but apparently effective plan to counteract the bad effects
of a serpent's bite. An incision having been made in the
breast of a living fowl, the bitten part is applied to the
wound. If the poison be very deadly, the bird soon
evinces symptoms of distress, becomes drowsy, droops its
head, and dies. It is replaced by a second, a third, and
more if requisite. When, however, the^irird no longer
exhibits any of the signs just mentioned, the patient is
considtered out of danger. A frog similarly applied is sup
posed to be equally efficacious."

Haunberg, in his Travels in South Africa, mentions an
antidote against the bite of serpents. He says : " The
blood of the turtle was much cried up, which, on account
of this extraordinary virtue, the inhabitants dry in the
form of small scales or membranes, and carry about them
when they travel in this country, w^hich swarms with this
most noxious vermin. Whenever any one is wounded by a
serpent, he takes a couple of pinches of the dried blood
internally, and applies a little of it to the wound."

I was present upon one occasion when an Indian child
was struck in the fore-finger by a large rattle- snake. His
mother, who was near at the time, seized him in her arms,
and, placing the wounded finger in her mouth, sucked the
poison from the puncture* for some minutes, repeatedly
spitting out the saliva ; after which she chewed and mashed
Borne plantain leaves and applied to the wound. Over this

RATTLE-SNAKE BITES. 83

she sprinkled some finely-powdered tobacco, and wrapped
the finger up in a rag. I did not observe that the child
suffered afterward the least pain or inconvenience. The
immediate application of the remedies probably saved his
life.

Irritation from the bite of gnats and nmsquitoes, etc.,
may be relieved by chewing the plantain, and rubbing the
spittle on the bite.

I knew of another instance near Fort Towson, in North
ern Texas, where a small child was left upon the eastern
floor of a cabin while its mother was washing at a spring
near by. She heard a cry of distress ; and, on going to
the cabin, what was her horror on seeing a rattle-snake
coiled around the child's arm, and striking it repeatedly
with its fangs. After killing the snake, she hurried to her
nearest neighbour, procured a bottle of brandy, and re
turned as soon as possible ; but the poison had already so
operated upon the arm, that it was as black as a negro's.
She poured down the child's throat a huge draught of the
liquor, which soon took effect, making it very drunk, and
stopped the action of the poison. Although the child was
relieved, it remained sick for a long time, but ultimately
recovered.

A man was struck in the leg by a very large rattle- snake
near Fort Belknap, Texas, in 1853. No other remedy
being at hand, a small piece of indigo was pulverized,
made into a poultice with water, and applied to the punc
ture. It seemed to draw out the poison, turning the
indigo white ; after which it was removed, and another
poultice applied. These applications were repeated until
the indigo ceased to change its colour. The man was then
carried to the hospital at Fort Belknap, and soon recover
ed ; and the surgeon of the post pronounced it a very
satisfactory cure.

A Chickasaw woman, who was bitten upon the foot near
Fort Washita by a ground rattle-snake (a very venomous
species), drank a bottle of whisky and applied the indigo
poultice, and when I saw her, three days afterwards, she

84 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

was recovering, but the flesh around the wound sloughed
away.

A Delaware remedy, which is said to be efficacious, is to
burn powder upon the wound ; but I have never known it
to be tried excepting upon a horse. In this case it was
successful ; or, at all events, the animal recovered.

Of all the remedies known to me, I should decidedly
prefer ardent spirits. It is considered a sovereign antidote
among our Western frontier settlers, and I would make
use of it with great confidence. It must be taken until
the patient becomes very much intoxicated ; and this re
quires a large quantity, as the action of the poison seems
to counteract its effects.

Should the fangs of the snake penetrate deep enough to
reach an artery, it is probable the person would die in a
short time. I imagine, however, that it does not often
occur.

The following remedial measures for the treatment of
the bites of poisonous reptiles are recommended by Dr.
Philip Weston in the London Lancet for July, 1859 :—

1. The application of a ligature round the limb close to
the wound, between it and the heart, to arrest the return
of venous blood.

2. Excision of the bitten parts, or free incision .through
the wounds made by the poison-teeth, subsequently, en
couraging the bleeding by warm solutions to favour the
escape of the poison from the circulation.

3. Cauterization widely round the limb of the bite with
a strong solution of nitrate of silver, one drachm to the
ounce, to prevent the introduction, of the poison into the
system by the lymphatics.

4. As soon as indications of the absorption of the poi
son into the circulation begin to manifest themselves, the
internal administration of ammonia in aerated or soda-
water every quarter of an hour, to support the nervous
energy and allay the distressing thirst.

" But," he continues, " there is yet wanting some reme
dy that shall rapidly counteract the poison introduced into
the blood, and assist in expelling it from the system. The

RATTLE-SNAKE BITES. 85

well-authenticated accounts of the success attending the
internal use of arsenic in injuries arising from the bites of
venomous reptiles in the East and West Indies, and also
in Africa, and the well-known properties of this medicine
as a powerful tonic and alterative in conditions of im
paired vitality of the blood arising from absorption of
certain blood-poisons, would lead me to include this agent
in the treatment already mentioned. It should be admin
istered in combination with ammonia, in full doses, fre
quently repeated, so as to neutralize quickly the poison
circulating in the blood, before it can be eliminated from
the system. This could readily be accomplished by adding
ten to fifteen minims of Fowler's solution to the compound
spirit of ammonia, to be given every quarter of an hour in
aerated or soda-water, until the vomiting and the more
urgent symptoms of collapse have subsided, subsequently
repeating the dose at longer intervals, until reaction had
become fully established, and the patient relieved by co
pious bilious dejections."

Cedron, which is a nut that grows on the Isthmus of
Panama, and which is sold by the druggists in New York,
is said to be an infallible antidote to serpent-bites. In
the Bullet, de I'Acad. de Med. for February, 1858, it is
stated, that a man was bitten at Panama by a coral snake,
the most poisonous species on the Isthmus. During the
few seconds that it took him to take the cedron from his
bag, he was seized with violent pains at the heart and
throat ; but he had scarcely chewed and swallowed a piece
of the nut about the size of a small bean, when the pains
ceased as by magic. He chewed a little more, and applied
it externally to the wound, when the pains disappeared,
and were followed by a copious evacuation of a substance
like curdled milk. Many other cases are mentioned
where the cedron proved an antidote.*

* In the absence of all remedies, even of fire and whiskey, the
traveller will take two precautions : The first is to place a ligature —
a string or rag will do —between the part bitten and the heart, thus
preventing rapid absorption of the venom. The second is to suck
the wound, poisons of this character being perfectly harmless when
applied to a healthy mucous membrane.— ED.

PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

CHAPTER Y.

Bivouacs. — Tented'Abri. — Gutta-percha Knapsack Tent. — Cornanche
Lodge. — Sibley Tent. — Camp Furniture. — Litters. — Rapid
Traveling. — Fuel. — Making Fires. — Fires on the Prairies, — Jerk
ing Meat. — Making Lariats. — Making Caches. — Disposition of
Fire-arms. — Colt's Revolvers. — Gun Accidents.— Trailing. — Indian
Sagacity.

BIVOUACS AND TENTS.

IN traveling with pack-animals, it is not always conve
nient or practicable to transport tents ; and the traveler's
ingenuity is often taxed in devising the most available
means for making himself comfortable and secure against
winds and storms. I have often been astonished to see
how soon an experienced voyager, without any resources
save those provided by nature, will erect a comfortable
shelter in a place where a person having no knowledge of
woodcraft would never think of such a thing.

Almost all people in different parts of the world have
their own peculiar methods of bivouacking.

In the severe climate of Thibet, Dr. Hooker informs us
that they encamp near large rocks, which absorb the heat
during the day, and give it out slowly during the night.
They form, as it were, reservoirs of caloric, the influence
of which is exceedingly grateful during a cold night.

In the polar regions, the Esquimaux live and make
themselves comfortable in huts of ice or snow, and with no
other combustible but oil.

The natives of Australia bury their bodies in the sand,
keeping their heads only above the surface, and thus sleep
warm during the chilly nights of that climate.

Fortunately for the health and comfort of travelers upon
the Plains, the atmosphere is pure and dry during the

BIVOUACS AND TENTS. O/

greater part of the year, and it is seldom that any rain or
dew is seen ; neither are there marshes, or ponds of stag
nant water, to generate putrid exhalations and poisonous
malaria. The night-air of the summer months is soft, ex
hilarating, and delightful. Persons may therefore sleep
in it and inhale it with perfect impunity, and, indeed,
many prefer this to breathing the confined atmosphere of
a house or tent.

During the rainy season only is it necessary to seek
shelter. In traveling with covered wagons one always
has protection from storms, but with pack-trains it
becomes necessary to improvise the best substitutes for
tents.

A very secure protection against storms may be con
structed by planting firmly in the ground two upright
poles, with forks at their tops, and crossing them with a
light pole laid in the forks. A gutta-percha cloth, or
sheet of canvas, or, in the absence of either of these two,
blankets, may be attached by one side to the horizontal
pole, the opposite edge being stretched out to the wind
ward, at an angle of about forty-five degrees to the ground,
and there fastened with wooden pins, or with buckskin
strings tied to the lower border of the cloth, and to pegs

HALF-FACED CAMP.

88 I'll A I III K TKAVKl.KR.

driven firmly into the earth. This forms a shelter tor
throe or tour men, and is a good defence against winds and
rains. It' a tiro bo then inado in front, the smoke will
bo earned away, so as not to incommode the occupants of
the bivouao.

This is called a halt-faced camp.*

Another method practised a great deal among mountain
men and Indians, consists in placing several rough polos
equidistant around in a hall circle, and bringing the
small ends together at the top, where thev are bound
with a thong. This forms the conical framework of the
bivouac, which, when covered with a cloth stretched
around it, makes a very good shelter, and is preferable to
the half-faced camp, because the sides are covered.

CONIC u HIV*«I vr.

Wh®D no cloths, blankets, or hides are at hand, to be
placed over the polos of the lodge, it may be covered with
green boughs laid on compactly, so as to shed a good deal
of rain, and keep out the wind in cold weather. \Ve

* And the " Break- wind" of Australian travellers. Tho Mpongwe

of tlio Gaboon Uivor cull it uOluko." — Ki>.

BIVOUACS AND 'I K.NTS.

adopted thin description of shelter in crossing the Rocky
Mountains during flic winter of lHf>7-H, and thus formed
a very effectual protection against the bleak winds which
swoop with groat violence over those lofty and inhospitable
sierras. We always selected a dense thicket for* enoamp-
inont, and covered the lodges with a heavy coating of pine
boughs, wattling thorn together as compactly an possible,
and piling snow upon tho outside in Much a man nor an to
make them quite impervious to the; wind. Tho (iron were
then kindled at tho moutliH of tho lodges, and our heads
and l)odieH were completely sheltered, while our foot wore
kept wunn by tho firoH.

The French troops, while; serving in the; Crimea, UHod
what they call tho tcnla dahri, OT shelter-tent, which seems
lo have been received with groat favor in Kimmo. It is
composed of two, four, or HI'X square pieces of cloth, with
buttons and button-holes adjusted upon tho odgon, and I'M
pitched by planting two upright HtakcH in tho ground at a
di/stance corresponding with tho length of the canvas when
buttoned together. Tho two Htickw an; connected by a
cord passed around tho top of each, drawn tight, and the
ends made fast to pirm driven firmly into the ground. Tho
can van in then laid ovor tho rope; between the HfiekH,
Hpread out at an angle about forty-five; degrees, and tho
lower odgew secured to the; earth with wooden pinn. Thin
makes Home defence against tho weather, and waH tho only
shelter enjoyed by the maw* of the French army in the
Crimea up to October, 1805. For a permanent camp, it
in UHual to excavate; a shallow basement under tho tent,
and to bank up the earth on tin; outside in cold weather.
It is designed that upon inarches the tftnta d'abri shall be
taken to pieces and carried by the soldiers.

A tent has recently boon prepared by Mr. John Rider,
105, IJroadway, New York, which is called the " tent knap-
fwck" It lias been examined by u board of army officers,
and recommended for adoption in our military service.

This tent is somewhat similar to the tentv d'ahri, and is
pitched in the same manner; but it has this advantage,

90

PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

that each separate piece may be converted into a water
proof knapsack.*

TKKT KNAPSACK.

The following extracts from the Report of the Board
go to show that this tent knapsack will be useful to parties
traveling on the prairies with pack-trains :

" It is a piece of gutta-percha 5 feet 3 inches long,
and 3 feet 8 inches wide, with double edges on one
side, and brass studs and button-holes along two edges,
and straps and buckles on the fourth edge ; the whole
weighing three pounds ; two sticks, 3 feet 8 inches long

* It is the " Pal " which has been used for centuries in India. — ED.

BIVOUACS AND TENTS. 91

by 1| inches in diameter, and a small cord. When used
as a knapsack, the clothing is packed in a cotton bag,
and the gutta-percha sheet is folded round it, lapping at
the ends. The clothing is thus protected by two or three
thicknesses of gutta-percha, and in this respect there is a
superiority over the knapsack now used by our troops.
Other advantages are, that the tent knapsack has no seams,
the parts at which those in use wear out soonest ; it adapts
itself to the size of the contents, so that a compact and
portable bundle can be made, whether the kit be entire or
not ; and, with the cotton bag, it forms a convenient, com
modious, and durable receptacle for all a soldier's clothing
and necessaries.

" On a scout, a soldier usually carries only a blanket,
overcoat, and at most a single shirt, pair of drawers, and
a pair of socks, all of which can be packed in the tent
knapsack in a small bundle, perfectly protected from rain,
and capable of being suspended from the shoulders and
carried with comfort and ease during a march.

" 2d. As a shelter. The studs and eyelets along two
edges of the tent knapsack are for the purpose of fastening
a number of them together, and thus making a sheet of
larger dimensions.

" A sheet formed by fastening together four knapsacks
was exhibited to the Board, stretched upon a frame of
wood. When used in service, the sheet is to be stretched
on a rope supported by two poles, or by two rifles, muskets,
or carbines, and pinned down at the sides with six pins,
three on each side.

" The sheet of four knapsacks is 10 feet 6 inches long,
and 7 feet 4 inches wide ; and, when pitched on a rope 4 feet
4 inches above the ground, covers a horizontal space 6 feet
6 inches wide, and 7 feet 4 inches long, which will accom
modate five men, and may be made to shelter seven. The
sheet can also be used on the ground, and is a great pro
tection from dampness, and as a shawl or talma ; indeed, a
variety of advantageous uses to which the gutta-percha
sheet may be put, will suggest themselves to persons
using it.

92 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

" The Board is satisfied with its merits in all the uses to
which it is proposed to be put, and is of opinion that the
gutta-percha tent knapsack may be adopted in the military
service with advantage.37

The usual tenement of the prairie tribes, and of the
traders, trappers, and hunters who live among them, is the
Comanche lodge, which is made of eight straight peeled
poles about twenty feet long, covered with hides or cloth.
The lodge is pitched by connecting the smaller extremities
of three of the poles with one end of a long line. The
three poles are then raised perpendicularly, and the larger
extremities spread out in a tripod to the circumference of
the circle that is to form the base of the lodge. The other
poles are then raised, laid into the forks of the three first,
and spread out equi-distant upon the circle, thus forming
the conical framework of the structure. Nine or ten poles
are generally used in one lodge.*

The long line attached to the tripod is then wound
several times around the top, where the poles intersect, and
the lower end made fast at the base of the lodge, thus se
curing the frame firmly in its position. The covering,
made of buffalo hides, dressed without the hair, and cut
and sewed together to fit the conical frame, is raised with
a pole, spread out around the structure, and united at the
edges with sharpened wooden pegs, leaving sufficient space
open at the bottom for a doorway, which may be closed
with a blanket spread out with two small sticks, and sus
pended over the opening.

The lower edge of the lodge is made fast to the ground
with wooden pins. The apex is left open, with a trian
gular wing or flap on each side, and the windward flap
constantly stretched out by means of a pole inserted into
a pocket in the end of it, which causes it to draw like a
sail, and thus occasions a draught from the fire built upon
the ground in the centre of the lodge, and makes it warm

* The number of poles in a chief's lodge may reach twenty-four. I
have described at some length, in the " City of the Saints," the
tenement, and the mode of erecting it. The Comanche lodge is pre
ferred to all other tents by the experienced trader. — ED.

BIVOUACS AND TENTS.

93

and comfortable in the coldest winter weather.* Canvas
makes a very good substitute for the buffalo-skin covering.

SIBLEY TENT.

A tent has been invented by Major H. H. Siblcy, of the
army, which is known as the " Sib ley Tent." It is some
what similar to the Comanche lodge ; but in place of the
conical frame-work of poles, it has but one upright stan
dard, resting upon an iron tripod in the centre. The tripod
can be used to suspend cooking utensils over the fire, and,
when folded up, admits the wooden standard between the
legs, thereby reducing the length one half, and making it
more convenient for packing and traveling.

THE SIBLEY TENT.

This tent constituted the entire shelter of the army in
Utah during the winter of 1857-8, and, notwithstanding

* The flap opens to windward when ventilation is wanted — to lee
ward when smoke is to be carried off. — ED.

94

PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

the severity of the climate in the elevated locality of Camp
Scott, the troops were quite comfortable, and pleased with
the tent.

In permanent camps the Sibley tents may be so pitched
as to give more room by erecting a tripod upon the out
side with three poles, high and stout enough to admit of the
tent's being suspended by ropes attached to the apex.
This method dispenses with the necessity of the central
upright standard.

When the weather is very cold, the tent may be made
warmer by excavating a basement about three feet deep,
which also gives a wall to the tent, making it more roomy.

The tent used in the army will shelter comfortably
twelve men.

Captain Gr. Rhodes, of the English army, in his recent
work upon tents and tent-life, has given a description of
most of the tents used in different armies in Europe ; but,
in my judgment, none of them, in point of convenience,
comfort, and economy, will compare with the Sibley tent
for compaigning in cold weather. One of its most import
ant features, that of admitting of a fire within it and
of causing a draught by the disposition of the wings, is
not, that I am aware, possessed by any other tent. More
over, it is exempt from the objections that are urged
against some other tents on account of insalubrity from
want of top ventilation to carry off the impure air during
the night.*

CAMP FUKNITURE.

The accompanying illustrations present some convenient
articles of portable camp furniture.

CAMP CHAIR No. 1 is of oak or other hard wood. Fig.
1 represents it opened for use ; in Fig. 2 it is closed for
transportation. A is a stout canvas, forming the back and
seat ; b, b, b are iron butt-hinges ;f c, c are leather straps,

* Its main disadvantage is that of all conical tents, — waste of
room, and more weight than accommodation.— ED.

t All hinges are equally objectionable in rough travelling, — they
are broken by the treatment they endure. The article furniture

CAMP FURNITURE.

95

one inch and a quarter wide, forming the arms ; d is an
iron rod, with nut and screw at one end.

CAMP CHAIR. NO. 1.

CAMP CHAIRS. HOS. 2 AND 3.

is a prairie difficulty, and our Prairie Guide has by no means
removed it.

96 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

CAMP CHAIR No. 2 is made of sticks tied together witli
thongs of buckskin or raw hide.

CAMP TABL::.

FIELD COT. NO. 1.

CAMP CHAIR No. 3 is a very comfortable seat, made of a
barrel, the part forming the seat being filled with grass.

CAMP TABLE. Fig. 1 represents the table folded for
transportation ; in Fig. 2 it is spread out for use. A is
the top of the table ; #, a are side boards, and c, c are end
boards, turning on butt-hinges,* b, b, b.

* Every man prefers, upon so uncertain a point, his own inven-

CAMP FURNITURE.

97

FIELD COTS. In No. 1, A represents the cot put up for
use ; B, the cot folded for transportation. The legs turn
upon iron bolts running through the head and foot boards ;

FIELD COT. NO. 2.

CAMP BUREAU.

tions. I hold to a pair of " bullock trunks," as made for the East
Indian market. With a canvass stretched between them upon
an iron frame, they form a cot ; a table when one is placed upon
the other; and chairs, when used singly. I make one of them
answer for a canteen ; the other acts wardrobe. — ED.

H

98

PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

they are then placed upon the canvas, and the whole is
rolled up around the side pieces. In No. 2, the upper
figure represents the cot put up for use ; the lower shows
it folded for transportation. A is a stout canvas ; b, b are
iron butt-hinges ; c, c the legs ; d, d leather straps, with

MESS-CHEST.

buckles, which hold the legs firm ; /, /, ends, which fold
upon hinges ; g, g, cross-bars from leg to leg. This cot is
strong, light, and portable.

CAMP BUREAU. This cut represents two chests, A, A,

LITTERS. 99

with their handles, 0, a; the covers taken off, they are
placed one upon the other, and secured by the clamps, B,
B; d shows the division between the two chests. When
it is to be transported, the knobs, c are unscrewed from the
drawers, the looking-glass / is removed, the drawers are
filled with clothing, etc., and the lids are screwed on.

MESS-CHEST. A represents the chest open for the table ;
B is the same closed ; C is the upper tray of tin, with
compartments, b, b; E is the lower wooden tray, divided
into compartments, a, a, for various purposes, and made
fast to the bottom of the chest ; d, d, are lids opening
with hinges ; / (in figure B) is a wooden leg, turning upon
a hinge, and fitting snugly upon two pieces of wood
screwed upon the cover.

LITTEES.

Should a party traveling with pack-animals, and with
out ambulance or wagons, have one of its members
wounded or taken so sick as to be unable to walk or ride
on horseback, a litter may be constructed by taking two
poles about twenty feet in length, uniting them by two
sticks three feet long lashed across the centre at six feet
apart, and stretching a piece of stout canvas, a blanket, or
hide between them to form the bed- Two steady horses or
mules are then selected, placed between the poles in the
front and rear of the litter, and the ends of the poles made
fast to the sides of the animals, either by attachment to
the stirrups or to the ends of straps secured over their
backs.

The patient may then be placed upon the litter, and is
ready for the march.

The elasticity of the long poles gives an easy motion to
the conveyance, and makes this method of locomotion much
more comfortable than might be supposed.

The prairie Indians have a way of transporting their
sick and children upon a litter very similar in construction
to the one just described, excepting that one animal is
used instead of two. One end of the litter is made fast to
the sides of the animal, while the other end is left to trail

100 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

upon the ground. A projection is raised for the feet to
rest against and prevent the patient from sliding down.
Instead of canvas, the Indians sometimes lash a large
willow basket across the poles, in which they place the
person to be transported. The animals harnessed to the
litter must be carefully conducted on the march, and
caution used in passing over rough and broken ground.

A very convenient and comfortable method of packing
a sick or wounded man when there are no animals dis
posable, and wThich is sometimes resorted to by the Indians,
is to take two small poles, about ten feet long, and lash
three cross-pieces to them, one in the centre, and the
other two about eighteen inches from the ends. A blanket
or hide is then secured firmly to this frame, and the
patient placed upon it under the centre cross-piece, which
prevents him from falling out. TWT> men act as carriers,
walking between the ends of the long poles. The patient
may be protected against the rain or sun by bending small
willows over the frame, and covering them with a cloth.

KAPID TKAVELING.

Small parties with good animals, light vehicles, and
little lading, may traverse the plains rapidly and com
fortably, if the following injunctions be observed.

The day's drive should commence as soon as it is light,
and, where the road is good, the animals kept upon a slow
trot for about three hours, then immediately turned out
upon the best grass that can be found for two hours, thus
giving time for grazing and breakfast. After which,
another drive of about three hours may be made, making
the noon halt about three hours, when the animals are
again harnessed, and the journey continued until night.

In passing through a country infested by hostile
Indians, the evening drive should be prolonged until an
hour or two after dark, turning off at a point where the
ground is hard, going about half a mile from the road, and
encamping without fires, in low ground, where the Indians
will find it difficult to track or see the party."*

* This, in Prairie parlance, is called, " making a dark camp." — ED.

FUEL AND FIRE. 101

These frequent halts serve to* rest 'and' reorilit1 the cidi-
mals, so that they will, without injury, make from thirty
to forty miles a day for a long time. This, however, can
only be done with very light loads and vehicles, such, for
example, as an ambulance with four mules, only three or
four persons, and a small amount of luggage.

FUEL AND FIRE.

There are long distances upon some of the routes to
California where no other fuel is found but the dried dung
of the buffalo, called by the mountaineers, " chips," and
by the French, " bois de vache," the argul of the Tartary
deserts."* It burns well when perfectly dry, answers a
good purpose for cooking, and some men even prefer it to
wood. As it will not burn when wet, it is well, in a
country where no other fuel can be had, when it threatens
to rain, for the traveler to collect a supply before the rain
sets in, and carry it in wagons to the camp. When dry,
the chips are easily lighted.

A great saving in fuel may be made by digging a trench
about two feet long by eight inches in width and depth ;
the fires are made in the bottom of the trench, and the
cooking utensils placed upon the top, where they receive
all the heat. This plan is especially recommended for
windy weather, and it is convenient at all times, f The
wood should be cut short, and split into small pieces.

It is highly important that travelers should know the
different methods that may be resorted to for kindling
fires upon a march. The most simple and most expe
ditious of these is by using the lucifer-matches ; but,
unless they are kept in well-corked bottles, they are liable
to become wet, and will then fail to ignite.

The most of those found in the shops easily imbibe
dampness, and are of but little use in the prairies. Those
marked " Van Duser, New York," and put up in flat

* And the East Indian " go bar." — ED.

t By no means. The fireplace must, if possible, be raised above
the ground for draught of air ; three stones form a good base for
pot or kettle, and act as screens against the wind. — ED.

102 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

boxes, are the best I have met with, and were
the only ones I saw which were not affected by the humid
climate of Mexico. Wax lucifers are better than wooden,
as they are impervious to moisture.

I have seen an Indian start a fire with flint and steel
after others had failed to do it with matches. This was
during a heavy rain, when almost all available fuel had
become wet. On such occasions dry fuel may generally
be obtained under logs, rocks, or leaning trees.

The inner bark of some dry trees, cedar for instance, is
excellent to kindle a fire. The bark is rubbed in the
hand until the fibres are made fine and loose, when it
takes fire easily ; dry grass or leaves are also good. After
a sufficient quantity of small kindling fuel has been col
lected, a moistened rag is rubbed with powder, and a spark
struck into it with a flint and steel, which will ignite it ;
this is then placed in the centre of the loose nest of in
flammable material, and whirls around in the air until it
bursts out into a flame. When it is raining, the blaze
should be laid upon the driest spot that can be found, a
blanket held over it to keep off the water, and it is fed
with very small bits of dry wood and shavings until it has
gained sufficient strength to burn the larger damp wood.
When no dry place can be found, the fire may be started
in a kettle or fryingpan, and afterwards transferred to the
ground.*

Should there be no other means of starting a fire, it can
always be made with a gun or pistol, by placing upon the
ground a rag saturated with damp powder, and a little dry
powder sprinkled over it. The gun or pistol is then (un
charged) placed with the cone directly over and near the
rag, and a cap exploded, which will invariably ignite it.
Another method is by placing about one-fourth of a charge
of powder into a gun, pushing a rag down loosely upon it,
and firing it out with the muzzle down near the ground,
which ignites the rag.

* This useful " dodge" was first proposed, I believe, by D., 4,
Albany, London in "The Lands of the Slave and the Free." — ED.

FUEL AND FIRE. 103

The most difficult of all methods of making a fire, but
one that is practised by some of the Western Indians, is
by friction between two pieces of wood. I had often
heard of this process, but never gave credit to its practica
bility until I saw the experiment successfully tried. It
was done in the following manner : Two dried stalks of the
Mexican soap plant, about three-fourths of a inch in dia
meter, were selected, and one of them made flat on one
side ; near the edge of this flat surface a very small indent
ation was made, to receive the end of the other stick, and
a groove cut from this down the side. The other stick is
cut with a rounded end, and placed upright upon the first.
One man then holds the horizontal piece upon the ground,
while another takes the vertical stick between the palms
of his hands, and turns it back and forth as rapidly as
possible, at the same time pressing forcibly down upon it.
The point of the upright stick wears away the indentation
into a fine powder, which runs off" to the ground in the
groove that has been cut ; after a time it begins to smoke,
and by continued friction it will at length take fire.

This is an operation that is difficult, and requires prac
tice ; but if a drill- stick is used with a cord placed around
the centre of the upright stick, it can be turned much
more rapidly than with the hands, and the fire produced
more readily. The upright stick may be of any hard, dry
wood, but the lower horizontal stick must be of a soft, in
flammable nature, such as pine, cottonwood, or black
walnut, and it must be perfectly dry. The Indians work
the sticks with the palms of the hands, holding the lower
piece between the feet ; but it is better to have a man to
hold the lower piece while another man works the drill-
bow.

Inexperienced travelers are very liable, in kindling fires
at their camp, to ignite the grass around them. Great
caution should be taken to guard against the occurrence of
such accidents, as they might prove excedingly disastrous.
We were very near having our entire train of wagons and
supplies destroyed, upon one occasion, by the carelessness

104 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

of one of our party in setting fire to the grass, and it was
only by the most strenuous and well-timed efforts of two
hundred men in setting counter- fires, and burning around
the train that it was saved. When the grass is dry, it
will take fire like powder ; and, if thick and tall, with a
brisk wind, the flames run like a race-horse, sweeping
everything before them. A lighted match, or the ashes
from a segar or pipe, thrown carelessly into the dry grass,
sometimes set it on fire ; but the greatest danger lies in
kindling camp fires.

To prevent accidents of this kind, before kindling the
fire, a space should be cleared away sufficient to embrace
the limits of the flame, and all combustibles removed there
from, and while the fire is being made, men should be
stationed around with blankets,* ready to put it out if it
takes the grass.

When a fire is approaching, and escape from its track
is impossible, it may be repelled in the following manner :
The train and animals are parked compactly together ;
then several men, provided with blankets, set fire to the
grass on the lee side, burning it away gradually from the
train, and extinguishing it on the side next the train.
This can easily be done, and the fire controlled with the
blankets, or with dry sand thrown upon it, until an area
large enough to give room for the train has been burned
clear. Now the train moves on to this ground of safety,
and the fire passes by harmless.

JERKING MEAT.

So pure is the atmosphere in the interior of our conti
nent that fresh meat may be cured, or jerked, as it is
termed in the language of the prairies, f by cutting it into
strips about an inch thick, and hanging it in the sun,

* Or with hides, or, in wooded lands, with leafy boughs. — ED.

t The word is originally " chaire cuite," corrupted by the Span
iards, to "charqui," and \>y the English to "jerked." Mr. Galton
asserts, that jerked meat loses about one-half of its nourishing pro
perties. I should say one-third, and less still if prepared with
"ghi" (melted butter), like the Eastern "kavurmeh." — ED.

LARIATS. 105

where in a few days it will dry so well that it may be
packed in sacks and transported over long journeys with
out putrefying.

When there is not time to jerk the meat by the slow
process described, it may be done in a few hours by build
ing an open framework of small sticks, about two feet
above the ground, placing the strips of meat upon the top
of it, and keeping up a slow fire beneath, which dries the
meat rapidly.

The jerking process may be done upon the march with
out any loss of time, by stretching lines from front to rear
upon the outside of loaded wagons, and suspending the
meat upon them, where it is allowed to remain until suffi
ciently cured to be packed away. Salt is never used in
this process, and is not required, as the meat, if kept dry,
rarely putrefies.

If travelers have ample transportation, it will be a wise
precaution, in passing through the buffalo range, to lay in
a supply of jerked meat for future exigences.

LARIATS.

It frequently happens upon long journeys, that the lariat
ropes wear out or are lost ; and, if there were no means of
replacing them, great inconvenience might result there
from. A very good substitute may be made by taking the
green hide of a buffalo, horse, mule, or ox, stretching it
upon the ground, and pinning it down by the edges. After
it has been well stretched, a circle is described with a piece
of charcoal, embracing as much of the skin as practicable,
and a strip about an inch wide cut from the outer edge of
sufficient length to form the lariat. The strip is then
wrapped round between two trees or stakes, drawn tight,
and left to dry, after which it is subjected to a process of
friction until it becomes pliable, when it is ready for use ;
but after it has been wet and dried again it becomes very
hard and unyielding. This, however, may be obviated by
boiling it in oil or grease until thoroughly saturated, after
which it remains pliable.

106 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

The Indians make very good lariat ropes by dressed
buffalo or buck- skins cut into narrow strips and braided ;
these, when oiled, slip much more freely than the hemp or
cotton ropes, and are better for lassoing animals ; but they
are not as suitable for picketing as those made of other
materials, because the wolves will eat them, and thus set
free the animals to which they are attached.

CACHES.

It not unfrequently happens that travelers are com
pelled, for want of transportation, to abandon a portion of
their luggage, and if it is exposed to the keen scrutiny of
the thieving savages who often follow the trail of a party,
and hunt over old camps for such things as may be left,
it will be likely to be appropriated by them. Such con
tingencies have given rise to a method of secreting articles
called by the old French Canadian voyagers " caching"

The proper places for making caches are in loose sandy
soils, where the earth is dry and easily excavated. Near
the bank of a river is the most convenient for this purpose,
as the earth taken out can be thrown into the water, leav
ing no trace behind.

When the spot has been chosen, the turf is carefully cut
and laid aside, after which a hole is dug in the shape of an
egg, and of sufficient dimensions to contain the articles to
be secreted, and the earth, as it is taken out, thrown upon
a cloth or blanket, and carried to a stream or ravine, where
it can be disposed of, being careful not to scatter any upon
the ground near the cache. The hole is then lined with
bushes or dry grass, the articles placed within, covered
with grass, the hole filled up with earth, and the sods care
fully placed back in their original position, and every thing
that would be likely to attract an Indian's attention re
moved from the locality. If an India-rubber or gutta-
percha cloth is disposable, it should be used to envelop the
articles in the cache.

Another plan of making the cache is to dig a hole inside

DISPOSITION OF FIRE-ARMS. 107

a tent, and occupy the tent for some days after the goods
are deposited. This effaces the marks of excavation.*

The mountain traders were formerly in the habit of
building fires over their caches ; but the Indians have be
come familiar with, this practice so that I should think it
no longer safe.

Another method of caching which is sometimes resorted
to is to place the articles in the top of an evergreen tree,
such as the pine, hemlock, or spruce.f The thick boughs
are so arranged around the packages that they cannot be
seen from beneath, and they are tied to a limb to prevent
them from being blown out by the wind. This will only
answer for such articles as will not become injured by the
weather.

Caves or holes in the rocks that are protected from the
rains are also secure deposits for caching goods ; but in
every case care must be taken to obliterate all tracks or
other indications of men having been near them. These
caches will be more secure when made at some distance
from roads or trails, and in places where Indians would
not be likely to pass.

To find a cache again, the bearing and distance from the
centre of it to some prominent object, such as a mound,
rock, or tree, should be carefully determined and recorded,
so that any one, on returning to the spot, would have no
difficulty in ascertaining its position.J

DISPOSITION OF FIRE-ARMS.

The mountaineers and trappers exercise a very wise pre
caution, on lying down for the night, by placing their

* Thus our dead officers were cached in Afghanistan, and the
same was done with the corpse of General Braddock. But savages
soo:i learn to suspect places where tents have been pitched. — ED.

t This is the African mode. The hemlock is P. Canadensis ;
the spruce P. nigra and P. alba ; and the pine is the white pine,
P. strabus. — ED.

£ Carelessness or want of skill may lead to disastrous results,
with an extreme readiness, as is proved by the melancholy fate of
the late Australian expedition, under Mr. Burke. — ED.

108

PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

arms and ammunition by their sides, where they can be
seized at a moment's notice. This rule is never departed
from, and they are, therefore, seldom liable to be surprised.
In Parkyns's " Abyssinia/' I find the following remarks
upon this subject :

" When getting sleepy, you return your rifle between
your legs, roll over, and go to sleep. Some people may
think this is a queer place for a rifle ; but, on the contrary,
it is the position of all others where utility and comfort are
most combined. The butt rests on the arm,* and serves as
a pillow for the head ; the muzzle points towards the knees,
and the arms encircle the lock and breech, so that you have
a smooth pillow, and are always prepared to start up armed
at a moment's notice."

I have never made the experiment of sleeping in this
way ; but I should imagine that a gun-stock would make
rather a hard pillow.

Many of our experienced frontier officers prefer carry
ing their pistols in a belt at their sides to placing them in
holsters attached to the saddle, as in the former case they
are always at hand when they are dismounted ; whereas,
by the other plan, they become useless when a man is un
horsed, unless he has time to remove them from the saddle,
which, during the excitement of an action, would seldom
be the case.f

Notwithstanding Colt's army and navy-sized revolvers
have been in use for a long time in our army, officers are
by no means of one mind as to their relative merits for
frontier service. The navy pistol, being more light and
portable, is more convenient for the belt ; but it is very
questionable, in my mind, whether these qualities counter
balance the advantages derived from the greater weight of
powder and lead that can be fired from the larger pistol,
and the consequent increased projectile force.

* How the gentleman prevents his arm becoming painfully numbed
and can find comfort in this position— fit only for a Nottingham lamb
— is a mystery of mysteries to me. — ED.

f Colt's pocket pistol or a pair of Derringers, is the best weapon
for carrying about the person, where it is advisable not to show
arms. — ED.

DISPOSITION OF FIRE-ARMS. 109

This point is illustrated by an incident which fell under
my own observation. In passing near the " Medicine-Bow
Butte" during the spring of 1858, I most unexpectedly
encountered and fired at a full-sized grizzly bear ; but, as
my horse had become somewhat blown by the previous
gallop, his breathing so much disturbed my aim that I
missed the animal at the short distance of about fifty yards,
and he ran off. Fearful, if I stopped to reload my rifle,
the bear would make his escape, I resolved to drive him
back to the advanced guard of our escort, which I could
see approaching in the distance ; this I succeeded in doing,
when several mounted men, armed with the navy revolvers,
set off' in pursuit. They approached within a few paces,
and discharged ten or twelve shots, the most of which en
tered the animal, but he still kept on, and his progress did
not seem materially impeded by the wounds. After these
men had exhausted their charges, another man rode up
armed with the army revolver, and fired two shots, which
brought the stalwart beast to the ground. Upon skinning
him and making an examination of the wounds, it was
discovered that none of the balls from the small pistols
had, after passing through his thick and tough hide, pene
trated deeper than about an inch into the flesh, but that
the two balls from the large pistol had gone into the vitals
and killed him. This test was, to my mind, a decisive one
as to the relative efficiency of the two arms for frontier
service, and I resolved thenceforth to carry the larger
size.

Several different methods are practised in slinging and
carrying fire-arms upon horseback. The shoulder-strap,
with a swivel to hook into a ring behind the guard, with
the muzzle resting downward in a leather cup attached by
a strap to the same as the stirrup leather, is a very handy
method for cavalry soldiers to sling their carbines ; but,
the gun being reversed, the jolting caused by the motion
of the horse tends to move the charge and shake the pow
der out of the cone,* which renders it liable to burst the
gun and to miss fire.

* The American " cone" is the English " nipple." Beg pardon for
the indelicacy ! Our " cousins," as we term them, so far from

110 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

An invention of the Namaquas, in Africa, described by
Galton in his Art of Travel, is as follows :

" Sew a bag of canvas, leather, or hide, of such bigness
as to admit of the butt of the gun pretty freely. The straps
that support it buckle through a ring in the pommel, and
the thongs by which its slope is adjusted fasten round the
girth below. The exact adjustments may not be hit upon
by an unpractised person for some little time, but, when
they are once ascertained, the straps need never be shifted.
The gun is perfectly safe, and never comes below the arm
pit, even in taking a drop leap ; it is pulled out in an
instant by bringing the elbow in front of the gun and close
to the side, so as to throw the gun to the outside of the
arm ; then, lowering the hand, the gun is caught up. It
is a bungling way to take out the gun while its barrel lies
between the arm and the body. Any sized gun can be
carried in this fashion. It offers no obstacle to mounting
or dismounting."

This may be a convenient way of carrying the gun ; I
have never tried it. Of all methods I have used, I prefer,
for hunting, a piece of leather about twelve inches by four,
with a hole cut in each end ; one of the ends is placed over
the pommel of the saddle, and with a buckskin string made
fast to it, where it remains a permanent fixture. When
the rider is mounted, he places his gun across the strap
upon the saddle, and carries the loose end forward over the
pommel, the gun resting horizontally across his legs. It
will now only be necessary occasionally to steady the gun
with the hand. After a little practice, the rider will be
able to control it with his knees, and it will be found a
very easy and convenient method of carrying it."* When
required for use, it is taken- out in an instant by simply
raising it with the hand, when the loose-end of the strap
comes off the pommel.

calling a spade, spade, explain a cock by "rooster," cockchafer by
" chafer," and cockroach by " roach." — ED.

* I have always carried my gun or rifle loose across the pommel,
and 1 quite agree with Gen. Marcy, that practice soon makes it the
handiest and readiest method. — ED.

DISPOSITION OF FIRE-ARMS. Ill

The chief causes of accidents from the use of fire-arms
arise from carelessness ; and I have always observed that
those persons who are most familiar with their use are
invariably the most careful. Many accidents have happened
from carrying guns with the cock down upon the cap.
When in this position, a blow upon the cock, and some
times the concussion produced by the falling of the gun,
will explode the cap ; and, occasionally, when the cock
catches a twig, or in the clothes, and lifts it from the
cap, it will explode. With a gun at half-cock there is but
little danger of such accidents ; for, when the cock is
drawn back, it either comes to the full-cock, and remains,
or it returns to the half-cock, but does not go down upon
the cone. Another source of very many sad and fatal acci
dents resulting from the most stupid and culpable careless
ness is in persons standing before the muzzles of guns and
attempting to pull them out of wagons, or to draw them
through a fence or brush in the same position. If the cock
encounters an obstacle in its passage, it will, of course, be
drawn back and fall upon the cap. These accidents are of
frequent occurrence, and the cause is well understood by all ;
yet men continue to disregard it, and their lives pay the
penalty of their indiscretion. It is a wise maxim, which
applies with especial force in campaigning on the prairies,
" Always look to your gun, but never let your gun look at
you."

An equally important maxim might be added to this :
Never to point your gun at another, whether charged or
uncharged, and never allow another to point his gun at you.
Young men, before they beome accustomed to the use of
arms, are very apt to be careless, and a large percentage
of gun accidents may be traced to this cause. That
finished sportsman and wonderful shot, my friend Captain
Martin Scott, than whom a more gallant soldier never
fought a battle, was the most careful man with fire-arms I
ever knew; and, up to the time he received his death- wound
upon the bloody field of Molino del Rey, he never ceased
his cautionary advice to young officers upon this subject.
His extended experience and intimate acquaintance with

112 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

the use of arms had fully impressed him with its import
ance, and no man ever lived whose opinions upon this
subject should carry greater weight. As incomprehensible
as it may appear to persons accustomed to the use of fire
arms, recruits are very prone, before they have been
drilled at target practice with ball-cartridges, to place the
ball below the powder in the piece. Officers conducting
detachments through the Indian country, should, therefore,
give their especial attention to this, and require the
recruits to tear the cartridge and pour all the powder into
the piece before the ball is inserted.

As accidents often occur in camp from the accidental dis
charge of fire-arms that have been capped, I would recom
mend that the arms be continually kept loaded in cam
paigning, but the caps not placed upon the cones until they
are required for firing. This will cause but little delay in
an action, and will conduce much to security from acci
dents.

When loaded fire-arms have been exposed for any consi
derable time to a moist atmosphere, they should be dis
charged, or the cartridges drawn, and the arms thoroughly
cleaned, dried, and oiled."* Too much attention cannot be
given to keeping arms in perfect firing order.

TRAILING.

I know of nothing in the woodman's education of so
much importance, or so difficult to acquire, as the art of
trailing or tracking men and animals. To become an
adept in this art requires the constant practice of years,
and with some men a lifetime does not suffice to learn it.f

* This I believe to be a " vulgar error." If the cartridge fit
properly, and the nipple be defended by a waxed cap, powder will
keep drier in the barrel than in the horn. I have often fired off a
round of Colt that has remained loaded for months. — ED.

f I have met with but one man who could gallop over hard ground
upon a " spoor "—hog or antelope — and he was of a genus soon
likely to become extinct,— an " Indian officer." General Marcy,
however, goes too far in asserting that the white man's perceptions
are too blunt for good tracking. A few weeks of hard practice will
tell wonderfully upon the progress of a man, whose organs of obser
vation are well developed. — ED.

TRAILING. 113

Almost all the Indians whom I have met with are pro
ficient in this species of knowledge, the faculty for acquir
ing which appears to be innate with them. Exigencies of
woodland and prairie- life stimulate the savage from child
hood to develop faculties so important in the arts of war
and of the chase.

I have seen very few white men who were good trailers,
and practice did not seem very materially to improve their
faculties in this regard ; they have not the same acute per
ceptions for these things as the Indian or the Mexican. It
is not apprehended that this difficult branch of woodcraft
can be taught from books, as it pertains almost exclusively
to the school of practice, yet I will give some facts relating
to the habits of the Indians that will facilitate its acquire
ment.

A party of Indians, for example, starting out upon a
war excursion, leave their families behind, and never tran
sport their lodges ; whereas, when they move with their
families, they carry their lodges and other effects. If,
therefore, an Indian trail is discovered with the marks of
the lodge-poles upon it, it has certainly not been made by
a war party ; but if the track do not show the trace of
lodge-poles, it will be equally certain that a war or hunting
party has passed that way, and if it is not desired to come
in conflict with them, their direction may be avoided.
Mustangs or wild horses, when moving from place to
place, leave a trail which is sometimes difficult to dis
tinguish from that made by a mounted party of Indians,
especially if the mustangs do not stop to graze. This
may be determined by following upon the trail until some
dung is found, and if this should lie in a single pile, it
is a sure indication that a herd of mustangs has passed, as
they always stop to relieve themselves, while a party of
Indians would keep their horses in motion, and the ordure
would be scattered along the road. If the trail pass
through woodland, the mustangs will occasionally go
under the limbs of trees too low to admit the passage of a
man on horseback.

An Indian, on coming to a trail, will generally tell at a

i

114 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

glance its age, by what particular tribe it was made, the
number of the party, and many other things connected
with it astounding to the uninitiated.

I remember, upon one occasion, as I was riding with a
Delaware upon the prairies, we crossed the trail of a large
party of Indians traveling with lodges. The tracks
appeared to me quite fresh, and I remarked to the Indian
that we must be near the party. "Oh no," said he,
" the trail was made two days before, in the morning," at
the same time pointing with his finger to where the sun
would be about 8 o'clock. Then seeing that my curiosity
was excited to know by what means he arrived at this
conclusion, he called my attention to the fact that there
had been no dew for the last two nights ; but that, on the
previous morning, it had been heavy. He then pointed
out to me some spears of grass that had been pressed down
into the earth by the horse's hoofs, upon which the sand
still adhered, having dried on, thus clearly showing that
the grass was wet when the tracks were made.

At another time, as I was traveling with the same
Indian, I discovered upon the ground what I took to be a
bear-track, with a distinctly-marked impression of the
heel and all the toes. I immediately called the Indian's
attention to it, at the same time flattering myself that
I had made quite an important discovery, w^hich had
escaped his observation. The fellow remarked with
a smile, " Oh no, captain, may be so, he not bear- track."
He then pointed with his gun-rod to some spears of grass
that grew near the impression ; but I did not comprehend
the mystery until he dismounted and explained to me that,
when the wind was blowing, the spears of grass would
be bent over toward the ground, and the oscillating motion
thereby produced would scoop out the loose sand into the
shape I have described. The truth of this explanation
was apparent, yet it occurred to me that its solution would
have baffled the wits of most white men.

Fresh tracks generally show moisture where the earth
has been turned up ; but after a short exposure to the sun
they become dry. If the tracks be very recent, the sand
may sometimes, where it is very loose and dry, be seen

TRAILING. 115

running back into the tracks ; and, by following them to a
place where they cross water, the earth will be wet for
some distance after they leave it. The droppings of the
dung from animals are also good indications of the age of
a trail. It is well to remember whether there have been
any rains within a few days, as the age of a trail may
sometimes be conjectured in this way. It is very easy to
tell whether tracks have been made before or after a rain,
as the water washes off all the sharp edges.

It is not a difficult matter to distinguish the tracks of
American horses from those of Indian horses, as the latter
are never shod ; moreover, they are much smaller.

In trailing horses, there will be no trouble while the
ground is soft, as the impressions they leave will then be
deep and distinct ; but when they pass over hard or rocky
ground, it is sometimes a very slow and troublesome pro
cess to follow them. Where there is grass, the trace can
be seen for a considerable time, as the grass will be
trodden down and bent in the direction the party has
moved ; should the grass have returned to its upright
position, the trail can often be distinguished by standing
upon it and looking ahead for some distance in the direc
tion it has been pursuing ; the grass that has been turned
over will show a different shade of green from that around
it, and this often marks a trail for a long time.

Should all traces of the track be obliterated in certain
localities, it is customary with the Indians to follow on in
the direction it has been pursuing for a time, and it is
quite probable that in some place where the ground is
more favorable it will show itself again. Should the trail
not be recovered in this way, they search for a place
where the earth is soft, and make a careful examination,
embracing the entire area where it is likely to run.

Indians who find themselves pursued, and wish to
escape, scatter as much as possible, with an understanding
that they are to meet again at some point in advance, so
that, if the pursuing party follows any one of the tracks,
it will invariably lead to the place of rendezvous. If, for
example, the trail points in the direction of a mountain

116 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

pass, or toward any other place which affords the only
passage through a particular section of country, it would
not be worth while to spend much time in hunting it, as
it would probably be regained at the pass.

As it is important, in trailing Indians, to know at what
gaits they are traveling, and as the appearance of the
tracks of horses are not familiar to all, I have, in the
following cut, represented the prints made by the hoofs at
the ordinary speed of the walk, trot, and gallop, so that
persons, in following the trail of Indians, may form an
idea as to the probability of overtaking them, and regulate
their movements accordingly.*

In traversing a district of unknown country where there
are no prominent landmarks, and with the view of return-
to the point of departure, a pocket compass should always
be carried, and attached by a string to a button-hole of
the coat, to prevent its being lost or mislaid ; and on
starting out, as well as frequently during the trip, to take
the bearing, and examine the appearance of the country
when facing toward the starting-point, as a landscape
presents a very different aspect when viewing it from
opposite directions. t There are few white men who can

* The " cut " is well worth study.— ED.

f The traveller cannot pay too much attention to this direction.
N one but those endued with the highest development of locality can
retrace a path with confidence, unless they have studied on the way,
its bearings from the opposite direction. The best plan is to halt at
times, and, turning round, to dwell upon some peculiar feature of
the country which re-seen will be readily recognized. In the Prairie
also, it is by no means easy to take a bee-line — to walk straight.
The military man will readily march on a point to his front, by
fixing his eye upon the distant objects, — clods, pebbles, grass
tussocks, or shrubs, — in alignement.

I cannot agree with Mr. Galton, that there is any difficulty in
steering oneself by the stars or the sun — a fortnight's work will
conquer that. The author of the " Art of Travel " proposes, how
ever, a good succedaneum, viz., a pocket compass without rhumbs,
but showing the degrees round the rim by means of which true bear
ings can be ascertained. That traveller also proposes, very properly,
that " the points of the compass, viz., North, North North-east, etc.,
should be used for none except true bearings, and the degrees, as

TRAILING.

117

retrace tlieir steps for any great distance, unless they take
the above precautions in passing over an unknown country

Running1 Trotting- Waiting

HORSE-TRACKS AT ORDINARY SPEED.

25°, for none except magnetic." Perhaps, however, the notation
might be advantageously revised ; it is easier, in mapping, to correct

118 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

for the first time ; but with the Indians it is different ; the
sense of locality seems to be innate with them, and they
do not require the aid of the magnetic needle to guide
them.

Upon a certain occasion, when I made a long march
over an unexplored section, and was returning upon an
entirely different route without either road or trail, a
Delaware, by the name of " Black Beaver," who was in
my party, on arriving at a particular point, suddenly
halted, and, turning to me, asked if I recognized the
country before us. Seeing no familiar objects, I replied
in the negative. He put the same question to the other
white men of the party, all of whom gave the same
answers, whereupon he smiled, and in his quaint vernacular
said, " Injun he don't know nothing. Injun big fool.
White man mighty smart ; he know heap." At the same
time he pointed to a tree about two hundred yards from
where we were then standing, and informed us that our
outward trail ran directly by the side of it, which proved
to be true.

Another time, as I was returning from the Conianche
country over a route many miles distant from the one I
had traveled in going out, one of my Delaware hunters,
who had never visited the section before, on arriving upon
the crest of an eminence in the prairie, pointed out to me

degrees than rhumbs ; besides which, we more naturally say N.E.
than 45°. The use of rhumbs and degrees mixed, e.g., N. 25° E. (for
simple 25°), is highly objectionable, and compasses should be gradu
ated from 0° to 360°.

This is a long note ; but losing his way is one of the sorest accidents
that can happen to the traveller. Such lately has twice been my fate
in ascending unexplored African mountains ; and my feelings upon
the subject are naturally enough acute. On the Prairies in Austra
lia and in Northern Africa — teste Dr. Barth — such occurrences are
very common, and terrible accidents have occurred from the frantic
state of mind which is apt to be induced by losing one's way in
the desert.

I have invariably found that coolness is the principal preserv
ative, and that it is far better to sit or lie down awaiting rescue,
than to waste strength by shouting, or by hastening to rejoin the
party. — ED.

TRAILING. 119

a clump of trees in the distance, remarking that our out
ward track would be found there. I was not, however,
disposed to credit his statement until we reached the
locality and found the road passing the identical spot he
had indicated.

This same Indian would start from any place to which
he had gone by a sinuous route, through an unknown
country, and keep a direct bearing back to the place of
departure ; and he assured me that he has never, even
during the most cloudy or foggy weather, or in the darkest
nights, lost the points of compass. There are very few
white men who are endowed with these wonderful faculties,
imd those few are only tendered proficient by matured
experience.

I have known several men, after they had become lost
in the prairies, to wander about for days without exercising
the least judgment, and finally exhibiting a state of mental
aberration almost upon the verge of lunacy. Instead of
reasoning upon their situation, they exhaust themselves
running a-head at their utmost speed without any regard
to direction. When a person is satisfied that he has lost his
way, he should stop and reflect upon the course he has
been traveling, the time that has elapsed since he left his
camp, and the probable distance that he is from it ; and if
he is unable to retrace his steps, he should keep as nearly
in the direction of them as possible; and, if he has
a compass, this will be an easy matter ; but, above all, he
should guard against following his own track around in a
circle with the idea that he is in a beaten track.

When he is traveling with a train of wagons which
leaves a plain trail, he can make the distance he has
traveled from camp the radius of a circle in which to ride
around, and, before the circle is described, he will
strike the trail. If the person has no compass, it is
always well to make an observation, and to remember the
direction of the wind at the time of departure from camp ;
and as this would not generally change during the day, it
would afford a means of keeping the points of the com
pass.

120 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

In the night, Ursa Major (the Great Bear) is not only
useful to find the north star ; but its position, when the
pointers will be vertical in the heavens, may be estimated
with sufficient accuracy to determine the north even when
the north star cannot be seen. In tropical latitudes, the
zodiacal stars, such as Orion and Antares, give the east
and west bearing, and the Southern Cross the north and
south, when Polaris and the Great Bear cannot be seen.

It is said that the moss upon the firs and other trees in
Europe gives a certain indication of the points of compass
in a forest country, the greatest amount accumulating
upon the north side of the trees. But I have often,
observed the trees in our own forests, and have not been
able to form any positive conclusions in this way.

121

CHAPTER VI.

Guides and Hunters. — Delawares and Shawnees. — Khebirs.— Black
Beaver. — Anecdotes. — Domestic Troubles. — Lodges. — Similarity
of Prairie Tribes to the Arabs. — Method of making War. — Tracking
and pursuing Indians. — Method of attacking them. — Telegraphing
by Smokes.

DELAWARES AND SHAWNEES.

IT is highly important that parties making expeditions
through an unexplored country should secure the services
of the best guides and hunters ; and I know of none who
are superior to the Delawares and Shawnee Indians. They
have been with me upon several different occasions, and I
have invariably found them intelligent, brave, reliable,
and in every respect well qualified to fill their positions.
They are endowed with those keen and wonderful powers
in woodcraft which can only be acquired by instinct, prac
tice, and necessity, and which are possessed by no other
people that I have heard of, unless it be the khebirs or
guides who escort the caravans across the great desert of
Sahara.

General E. Dumas, in his treatise upon the " Great
Desert," published in Paris, 1856, in speaking of these
guides, says : —

" The khebir is always a man of intelligence, of tried
probity, bravery, and skill. He knows how to determine
his position from the appearance of the stars ; by the ex
perience of other journeys, he has learned all about the
roads, wells, and pastures ; the dangers of certain passes,
and the means of avoiding them ; all the chiefs whose ter
ritories it is necessary to pass through ; the salubrity of

122 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

the different localities ; the remedies against diseases ; the
treatment of fractures, and the antidotes to the venom of
snakes and scorpions.

" In these vast solitudes, where nothing seems to indi
cate the route, where the wind covers up all traces of the
track with sand, the khebir has a thousand ways of direct
ing himself in the right course. In the night, when there
are no stars in sight, by the simple inspection of a handful
of grass, which he examines with his fingers, which he
smells and tastes, he informs himself of his locale without
ever being lost or wandering.

" I saw with astonishment that our conductor, although
he had but one eye, and that defective, recognized perfectly
the route ; and Leon, the African, states that the conduc
tor of his caravan became blind upon the journey from
ophthalmia, yet by feeling the grass and sand he could tell
when we were approaching an inhabited place.

" Our guide had all the qualities which make a good
khebir. He was young, large, and strong; he was a mas
ter of arms ; his eye commanded respect, and his speech
won the heart. But, if in the tent he was affable and win
ning, once en route he spoke only when it was necessary,
and never smiled."

The Delawares are but a minute remnant of the great
Algonquin family, whose early traditions declare them to
be the parent stock from which the other numerous
branches of the Algonquin tribes originated. And they
are the same people whom the first white settlers found so
numerous upon the banks of the Delaware.

When "William Penn held his council with the Dela
wares upon the ground where the city of Philadelphia now
stands, they were as peaceful and un warlike in their habits
as the Quakers themselves. Thev had been subjugated
by the Five Nations, forced to take the appellation of
squaws, and forego the use of arms ; but after they moved
west, beyond the influence of their former masters, their
naturally independent spirit revived. They soon regained
their lofty position as braves and warriors, and the male
squaws of the Iroquois soon became formidable men and

DELAWARES AND SHAWNEES. 123

heroes, and so have continued to the present day. Their
war-path has reached the shores of the Pacific Ocean on
the west, Hudson's Bay on the north, and into the very
heart of Mexico on the south.

They are not clannish in their dispositions like most
other Indians, nor by their habits confined to any given
locality, but are found as traders, trappers, or hunters
among most of the Indian tribes inhabiting our continent.
I even saw them living with the Mormons in Utah. They
are among the Indians as the Jews among the whites, es
sentially wanderers.

The Shawnees have been associated with the Delawares
185 years. They intermarry and live as one people. Their
present places of abode are upon the Missouri River, near
Fort Leavenworth, and in the Choctaw Territory, upon the
Canadian River, near Fort Arbuckle. They are familiar
with many of the habits and customs of their pale-faced
neighbours, and some of them speak the English language,
yet many of their native characteristics tenaciously cling
to them.

Upon one occasion, I endeavoured to teach a Delaware
the use of the compass. He seemed much interested in its
mechanism, and very attentively observed the oscillations
of the needle. He would move away a short distance,
then return, keeping his eyes continually fixed upon the
needle, and the uniform position into which it settled. He
did not, however, seem to comprehend it in the least, but
regarded the entire proceeding as a species of necromantic
performance got up for his especial benefit, and I was about
putting away the instrument, when he motioned me to
stop, and came walking toward it with a serious but in
credulous countenance, remarking, as he pointed his finger
toward it, " May-be so he tell lie sometime."

The ignorance evinced by this Indian regarding the uses
of the compass, is less remarkable than that of some white
men who are occasionally met upon the frontier.

While surveying Indian lands in the wilds of Western
Texas, during the summer of 1854, 1 encountered a deputy
surveyor traveling on foot, with his compass and chain

124 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

upon his back. I saluted him very politely, remarking
that I presumed he was a surveyor, to which he replied,
" I reckon, stranger, I ar that thar individoal."

I had taken the magnetic variations several times, al
ways with nearly the same results (about 10° 20') ; but, in
order to verify my observations, I was curious to learn how
they accorded with his own working, and accordingly in
quired of him what he made the variation of the compass
in that particular locality. He seemed struck with aston
ishment, took his compass from his back and laid it upon
a log near by, then facing me, and pointing with his hand
toward it, said,

" Straanger, do yer see that thar instru-ment ?" to which
I replied in the affirmative. He continued,

" I've owned her well-nigh goin on twenty year. I've
put her through the perarries and through the timber, and
now look yeer, straanger, you can just bet your life on't
she never wzr-ried arry time, and if you'll just follow her
sign you'll knock the centre out of the north star. She
never lies, she don't."

He seemed to consider my interrogatory as a direct in
sinuation that his compass was an inperfect one, and hence
his indignation. Thinking that I should not get any very
important intelligence concerning the variation of the
needle from this surveyor, I begged his pardon for ques
tioning the accuracy of his instru-mew£, bid him good-
morning, and continued on my journey.

BLACK BEAVER.

In 1849, I met with a very interesting specimen of the
Delaware tribe whose name was Black Beaver. He had
for ten years been in the employ of the American Fur
Company, and, during this time, had visited nearly every
point of interest within the limits of our unsettled terri
tory. He had set his traps and spread his blanket upon
the head waters of the Missouri and Columbia ; and his
wanderings had led him south to the Colorado and Gila,
and thence to the shores of the Pacific in Southern Cali-

BLACK BEAVER. 125

forma. His life had been that of a veritable cosmopolite,
filled with scenes of intense and startling interest, bold and
reckless adventure. He was with me two seasons in the
capacity of guide, and I always found him perfectly reliable,
brave, and competent. His reputation as a resolute, deter
mined, and fearless warrior, did not admit of question, yet
I have never seen a man who wore his laurels with less
vanity.

When I first made his acquaintance, I was puzzled to
know what to think of him. He would often, in speaking
of the Prairie Indians, say to me,

" Captain, if you have a fight, you mustn't count much
on me, for I'ze a big coward. When the fight begins I
'spect you'll see me run under the cannon ; Injun mighty
'fraid of big gun."

I expressed my surprise that he should, if what he told
me was true, have gained such a reputation as a warrior ;
whereupon he informed me that many years previous, when
he was a young man, and before he had ever been in battle,
he, with about twenty white men and four Delawares, were
at one of the Fur Company's trading-posts upon the Upper
Missouri, engaged in trapping beaver. While there, the
stockade fort was attacked by a numerous band of Black-
feet Indians, who fought bravely, and seemed determined
to annihilate the little band that defended it.

After the investment had been completed, and there
appeared no probability of the attacking party's aban
doning their purpose, "Oned — d fool Delaware " (as Black
Beaver expressed it) proposed to his countrymen to make
a sortie, and thereby endeavor to effect an impression upon
the Blackfeet. This, Beaver said, was the last thing he
would ever have thought of suggesting, and it startled
him prodigiously, causing him to tremble so much that
it was with difficulty he could stand.

He had, however, started from home with the fixed
purpose of becoming a distinguished brave, and made a
great effort to stifle his emotion. He assumed an air of
determination, saying that was the very idea he was just
about to propose; and, slapping his comrades upon the

126 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

back, started toward the gate, telling them to follow. As
soon as the gate was passed, he says, he took particular
care to keep in the rear of the others, so that, in the
event of a retreat, he would be able to reach the stockade
first.

They had not proceeded far before a perfect shower of
arrows came falling around them on all sides, but, fortu
nately, without doing them harm. Not fancying this hot
reception, those in front proposed an immediate retreat, to
which he most gladly acceded, and at once set off at his
utmost speed, expecting to reach the fort first. But he
soon discovered that his comrades were more fleet, and
were rapidly passing and leaving him behind. Suddenly
he stopped and called out to them, " Come back here, you
cowards, you squaws ; what for you run away and leave
brave man to fight alone ?" This taunting appeal to their
courage turned them back, and, with their united efforts,
they succeeded in beating off the enemy immediately
around them, securing their entrance into the fort.

Beaver says when the gate was closed, the captain in
charge of the establishment grasped him warmly by the
hand, saying, " Black Beaver, you are a brave man ; you
have done this day what no other man in the fort would
have the courage to do, and I thank you from the bottom
of my heart."

In relating the circumstance to me he laughed most
heartily, thinking it a very good joke, and said after that
he was regarded as a brave warrior.

The truth is, my friend Beaver was one of those few
heroes who never sounded his own trumpet ; yet no one
that knows him ever presumed to question his courage.

At another time, while Black Beaver remained upon
the head waters of the Missouri, he was left in charge of
a "cache," consisting of a quantity of goods buried to
prevent their being stolen by the Indians. During the
time he was engaged upon this duty, he amused himself by
hunting in the vicinity, only visiting his charge once a
day. As he was making one of these periodical visits, and
had arrived upon the summit of a hill overlooking the

BLACK BEAVER. 127

locality, he suddenly discovered a large number of hostile
Blackfeet occupying it, and he supposed they had appro
priated all the goods. As soon as they espied him, they
beckoned for him to come down and have a friendly chat
with them.

Knowing that their purpose was to beguile him into
their power, he replied that he did not feel in a talking
humour just at that time, and started off in another direc
tion, whereupon they hallooed after him, making use of
the most insulting language and gestures, and asking him
if he considered himself a man thus to run away from his
friends, and intimating that, in their opinion, he was an
old woman, who had better go home and take care of the
children.

Beaver says this roused his indignation to such a pitch,
that he stopped, turned round, and replied, " Maybe so ;
s'pose three or four of you Injuns come up here alone, I'll
show you if I'ze old womans." They did not, however,
accept the challenge, and Beaver rode off.

Although the Delawares generally seem quite happy in
their social relations, yet they are not altogether exempt
from some of those minor discords which occasionally creep
in and mar the domestic harmony of their more civilized
pale-faced brethren.

I remember, upon one occasion, I had bivouacked for
the night with Black Beaver, and he had been endeavoring
to while away the long hours of ths evening by relating
to me some of the most thrilling incidents of his highly-
adventurous and erratic life, when at length a hiatus in the
conversation gave me an opportunity of asking him if he
was a married man. He hesitated for some time ; then
looking up and giving his fore-finger a twirl, to imitate
the throwing of the lasso, replied, "One time me catch
'um wife. I pay that woman, his modder, one hoss — one
saddle — one bridle — two plug tobacco, and plenty goods.
I take him home to my house — got plenty meat — plenty
corn — plenty everything. One time me go take walk,
maybe so three, maybe so two hours. When I come home,
that woman he say, ' Black Beaver, what for you go way

128 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

longtime?' I say, 'I not go nowhere; I just take one
littel walk/ Then that woman he* get heap mad, and say,
1 JS"o, Black Beaver, you not take no littel walk. I know
what for you go way; you go see nodder one woman* I
say, ' Maybe not/ Then that woman he cry long time,
and all e'time now he mad. You never see 'Merican wo
man that a- way?"

I sympathized most deeply with my friend in his distress,
and told him, for his consolation, that, in my opinion, the
women of his nation were not peculiar in this respect ; that
they were pretty much alike all over the world, and I was
under the impression that there were well- authenticated
instances, even among white women, where they had sub
jected themselves to the same causes of complaint so feel
ingly depicted by him. Whereupon he very earnestly
asked, " What you do for cure him? Whip him?" I re
plied, " No ; that, so far as my observation extended, I
was under the impression that this was generally regarded
by those who had suffered from its effects, as one of those
chronic and vexatious complaints which would not be bene
fited by the treatment he suggested, even when adminis
tered in homoeopathic doses, and I believed it was now
admitted by all sensible men that it was better in all such
cases to let nature take its course, trusting to a merciful
Providence."

At this reply, his countenance assumed a dejected ex
pression ; but at length he brightened up again and trium
phantly remarked, " I tell you, my friend, what I do ; I
ketch 'um nodder one wife when I go home."

Black Beaver had visited St. Louis and the small towns
upon the Missouri frontier, and he prided himself not a
little upon his acquaintance with the customs of the whites,
and never seemed more happy than when an opportunity
offered to display this knowledge in the presence of his
Indian companions. It so happened, upon one occasion,
that I had a Comanche guide who bivouacked at the same

* The N. A. Indian, like the African Negro, translates his ver
nacular into English. Few savage or barbarian languages have dis
tinctions of gender; thus a woman is always " he." — ED.

BLACK BEAVER. 129

fire with. Beaver. On visiting them one evening according
to my usual practice, I found them engaged in a very
earnest and apparently not very amicable conversation. On
inquiring the cause of this, Beaver answered,

"I've been telling this Comanche what I seen 'mong
the white folks "

I said, " Well, Beaver, what did you tell him?"

" I tell him 'bout the steam boats, and the rail-roads,
and the heap o' houses I seen in St. Louis."

" Well, sir, what does he think of that?"

" He say I'ze d— d fool."

" What else did you tell him about?"

" I tell him the world is round ; but he keep all e'time
say, Hush, you fool! do you spose I'ze child? Have'nt I
got eyes? Can't I see the prairie? You call him round?
He say, too, maybe so I tell you something you not know
before. One time my grandfather he make long journey
that way (pointing to the west). When he get on big
mountain, he seen heap water on t'other side, jest so flat
he can be, and he seen the sun go right straight down on
t'other side. I then tell him all these rivers he seen, all
e'time the water he run ; s'pose the world flat the water he
stand still. Maybe so he not b'lieve me?"

I told him it certainly looked very much like it. I then
asked him to explain to the Comanche the magnetic tele
graph. He looked at me earnestly, and said,

" What you call that magnetic telegraph ?"

I said, " You have heard of New York and New
Orleans ?"

" Oh yes," he replied.

" Yery well ; we have a wire connecting these two
cities, which are about a thousand miles apart, and it
would take a man thirty days to ride it upon a good
horse. Now a man stands at one end of this wire in .New
York ; and, by touching it a few times, he inquires of his
friend in New Orleans what he had for breakfast. His
friend in New Orleans touches the other end of the wire,
and in ten minutes the answer comes back — ham and
eggs. Tell him that, Beaver."

K

130 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

His countenance assumed a most comical expression ; but
he made no remark until I again requested him to repeat
what I had said to the Coiranche, when he observed,

" No, captain, I not tell him that, for I don't b'lieve
that myself."

Upon my assuring him that such was the fact, and that
I had seen it myself, he said,

" Injun not very smart ; sometimes he's big fool, but he
holler pretty loud ; you hear him maybe half a mile ; you
say 'Merican man he talk thousand miles. I 'spect you
try to fool me now, captain ; maybe so you lie."

The Indians living between the outer white settlements
and the nomadic tribes of the Plains form intermediate
social links in the chain of civilization.

The first of these occupy permanent habitations ; but the
others, although they cultivate the soil, are only resident
while their crops are growing, going out into the prairies
after harvest to spend the winter in hunting. Among the
former may be mentioned the Cherokees, Creeks, Choctaws,
and Chickasaws, and of the latter are the Delawares,
Shawnees, Kickapoos, etc., who are perfectly familiar with
the use of the rifle, and, in my judgment, would make as
formidable partisan warriors as can be found in the uni
verse.

THE WILD TRIBES OF THE WEST.

These are very different in their habits from the natives
that formerly occupied the country bordering upon the
Atlantic coast. The latter lived permanently in villages,*
where they cultivated the soil, and never wandered very
far from them. They did not use horses, but always made
their war expeditions on foot, and never came into action
unless they could screen themselves behind the cover of
trees. They inflicted the most inhuman tortures upon
their prisoners, but did not, that I am aware, violate the
chastity of women.

The prairie tribes have no permanent abiding-places ;

* The Eastern wigwam was a larger and more substantial tene
ment than the western lodge.— ED.

THE WILD TRIBES OF THE WEST. 131

they never plant a seed, but roam for hundreds of miles
in every direction over the plains. They are perfect horse
men, and seldom go to war on foot. Their attacks are
made in the open prairies, and when unhorsed they are
powerless. They do not, like the eastern Indians, inflict
upon their prisoners prolonged tortures, but invariably
subject all females that have the misfortune to fall into
their merciless clutches to an ordeal worse than death.

It is highly important to every man passing through a
country frequented by Indians to know some of their
habits, customs, and propensities ; as this will facilitate his
intercourse with friendly tribes, and enable him, when he
wishes to avoid a conflict, to take precautions against
coming in collision with those who are hostile.

Almost every tribe has its own way of constructing its
lodges, encamping, making fires, its own style of dress, by
some of which peculiarities the experienced frontiersman
can generally distinguish them.

The Osages, for example, make their lodges in the shape
of a wagon-top, of bent rods or willows covered with skins,
blankets, or the bark of trees.

The Kickapoo lodges are made in an oval form, some
thing like a rounded haystack, of poles set in the ground,
bent over, and united at top ; this is covered with cloths or
bark.

The "Witchetaws, Wacos, Towackanies, and Tonkowas
erect their hunting-lodges of sticks put up in the form of
the frustrum of a cone and covered with brush.

All these tribes leave the framework of their lodges
standing when they move from camp to camp, and this, of
course, indicates the particular tribe that erected them.

The Delawares and Shawnees * plant two upright forked
poles, place a stick across them, and stretch a canvas
covering over it, in the same manner as with the " tente
d'abri."

The Sioux, Arapahoes, Cheyennes, Utes, Snakes, Black-

* Add Cherokees and Choctaws, — ED.

132 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

feet, and Kioways make use of the Comanclie lodge,
covered with dressed buffalo hides. *

All the Prairie Indians I have met with are the most
inveterate beggars. They will flock around strangers, and,
in the most importunate manner, ask for everything they
see, especially tobacco and sugar ; and, if allowed, they
will handle, examine, and occasionally pilfer such things
as happen to take their fancy. The proper way to treat
them is to give them at once such articles as are to be
disposed of, and then, in a firm and decided manner, let
them understand that they are to receive nothing else.

A party of Keechis once visited my camp with their
principal chief, who said he had some important business
to discuss, and demanded a council with the " capitan."
After consent had been given, he assembled his principal
men, and, going through the usual preliminary of
taking a " big smoke/' he arose, and with a great deal of
ceremony commenced his pompous and flowery speech,
which, like all others of a similar character, amounted to
nothing, until he touched upon the real object of his visit.
He said he had traveled a long distance over the prairies
to see and have a talk with his white brothers ; that his
people were very hungry and naked. He then approached
me with six small sticks, and, after shaking hands, laid
one of the sticks in my hand, which he said represented
sugar, another signified tobacco, and the other four, pork,
flour, whisky, and blankets, all of which he assured me his
people were in great need of, and must have. His talk
was then concluded, and he sat down, apparently much
gratified with, the graceful and impressive manner with
which he had executed his part of the performance,

It then devolved upon me to respond to the brilliant
effort of the prairie orator, which I olid in something like
the following manner. After imitating his style for a

* The Sacs, Foxes, Winnebagos, or Puants and Menomenes build
elliptical lodges, thirty to forty feet long by fourteen to fifteen feet
wide, and large enough to shelter from twenty to sixty people. The
covering is of plaited rush mats bound to the poles, and a small
aperture in the lodge acts as chimney. — ED.

INDIAN FIGHTING. 133

short time, I closed my remarks, by telling him that we
were poor infantry soldiers, who were always obliged to go
on foot ; that we had become very tired of walking, and
would like very much to ride. Furthermore, I had ob
served that they had among them many fine horses and
mules. I then took two small sticks, and imitating as
nearly as possible the manner of the chief, placed one in
his hand, which I told him was nothing more or less than
a first-rate horse, and then the other, which signified a
good large mule. I closed by saying that I was ready to
exchange presents whenever it suited his convenience.

They looked at each other for some time without speak
ing, but finally got up and walked away, and I was not
troubled with them again.*

INDIAN FIGHTING.

The military system, as taught and practised in our
army up to the time of the Mexican war, was, without
doubt, efficient and well- adapted to the art of war among
civilized nations. This system was designed for the oper
ations of armies acting in populated districts, furnishing
ample resources, and against an enemy who was tangible,
and made use of a similar system.

The vast expanse of desert territory that has been an
nexed to our domain within the last few years, is peopled
by numerous tribes of marauding and erratic savages, who
are mounted upon fleet and hardy horses, making war the
business and pastime of their lives, and acknowledging
none of the ameliorating conventionalities of civilized war
fare. Their tactics are such as to render the old system
almost wholly impotent.

To act against an enemy who is here to-day and there

* In the old times, crafty North American Indians have tried
" dreaming dreams," against white men, and have lost by the pro
ceeding. Thus, while the red-face saw in sleep his pale-faced
brother giving him a fine cloth coat, the pale-face perceived his
red-faced brother making over to him a valuable tract of country.
The visions, of course, soon ceased.— ED.

134 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

to-morrow ; who at one time stampedes a herd of mules
upon the head waters of the Arkansas, and when next
heard from, is in the very heart of the populated districts
of Mexico, laying waste haciendas, and carrying deA7asta-
tion, rapine, and murder in his step ; who is every where
without being any where ; who assembles at the moment
of combat, and vanishes whenever fortune turns against
him ; who leaves his women and children far distant from
the theatre of hostilities, and has neither towns or maga
zines to defend, nor lines of retreat to cover ; who derives
his commissariat from the country he operates in, and is
not encumbered with baggage- wagons or pack-trains ; who
comes into action only when it suits his purposes, and never
without the advantage of numbers or position — with such
an enemy the strategic science of civilized nations loses
much of its importance, and finds but rarely, and only in
peculiar localities, an opportunity to be put in practice.

Our little army, scattered has it has been over the vast
area of our possessions, in small garrisons of one or two
companies each, has seldom been in a situation to act suc
cessfully on the offensive against large numbers of these
marauders, and has often been condemned to hold itself
almost exclusively upon the defensive. The morale of the
troops must thereby necessarily be seriously impaired, and
the confidence of the savages correspondingly augmented.
The system of small garrisons has a tendency to disorgan
ize the troops in proportion as they are scattered, and
renders them correspondingly inefficient.'* The same re
sults have been observed by the French army in Algeria,
where, in 1845, their troops were, like ours, disseminated
over a vast space, and broken up into small detachments
stationed in numerous entrenched posts. "Upon the sudden
appearance of Abd el Kader in the plain of Mitidja, they
were defeated with serious losses, and were from day to
day obliged to abandon these useless stations, with all the

* I have treated of this important subject — the deficiency of
centralization in the American and the Anglo-Indian armies— in
the City of the Saints, chap. 1.— ED.

INDIAN FIGHTING. 135

supplies they contained. A French writer, in discussing
this subject, says :

" We have now abandoned the fatal idea of defending
Algeria by small entrenched posts. In studying the cha
racter of the war, the nature of the men who are to oppose
us, and of the country in which we are to operate, we must
be convinced of the danger of admitting any other system
of fortification than that which is to receive our grand
depots, our magazines, and to serve as places to recruit and
rest our troops, when exhausted by long expeditionary
movements.

" These fortifications should be established in the midst
of the centres of action, so as to command the principal
routes, and serve as pivots to expeditionary columns.

" We owe our success to a system of war which has its
proofs in twice changing our relations with the Arabs.
The system consists altogether in the great mobility we
have given to our troops. Instead of disseminating our
soldiers, with the vain hope of protecting our frontiers with
a line of small posts, we have concentrated them, to have
them at all times ready for emergencies ; and, since then,
the fortune of the Arabs has waned, and we have marched
from victory to victory.

" This system which has thus far succeeded, ought to
succeed always ; and to conduct us, God willing, to the
peaceful possession of the country."

In reading a treatise upon war as it is practised by the
French in Algeria, by Colonel A. Laure, of the 2nd Alge-
rine Tirailleurs, published in Paris in 1858, I was struck
with the remarkable similarity between the habits of the
Arabs and those of the wandering tribes that inhabit our
Western prairies. Their manner of making war is almost
precisely the same, and a successful system of strategic
operations for one will, in my opinion, apply to the other.

As the Turks have been more successful than the French
in their military operations against the Arab tribes, it may
not be altogether uninteresting to inquire by what means
the inferior soldiers have accomplished the best results.

136 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

The author above mentioned, in speaking upon this sub
ject, says :

" In these latter days, the world is occupied with the
organization of mounted infantry, according to the example
of the Turks, where, in the most successful experiments
that have been made, the mule carries the foot- soldier.

" The Turkish soldier mounts his mule, puts his provi
sions upon one side and his accoutrements upon the other,
and, thus equipped, sets out upon long marches, traveling
day and night, and only reposing occasionally in bivouac.
Arrived near the place of operations (as near the break of
day as possible), the Turks dismount in the most profound
silence, and pass in succession the bridle of one mule
through that of another, in such a manner that a single
man is sufficient to hold forty or fifty of them by retaining
the last bridle, which secures all the others ; they then ex
amine their arms, and are ready to commence their work.
The chief gives his last orders, posts his guides, and they
make the attack, surprise the enemy, generally asleep, and
carry the position without resistance. The operation ter
minated, they hasten to beat a retreat, to prevent the
neighbouring tribes from assembling, and thus avoid a com
bat.

"The Turks had only 3,000 mounted men and 10,000
infantry in Algeria, yet these 13,000 men sufficed to con
quer the same obstacles which have arrested us for twenty-
six years, notwithstanding the advantage we had of an
army which was successivelv re-inforced until it amounted
to a 100,000.

" Why not imitate the Turks, then ; mount our infantry
upon mules, and reduce the strength of our army ?

" The response is very simple :

" The Turks are Turks — that is to say, Mussulmans — and
indigenous to the country ; the Turks speak the Arabic
language ; the Deys of Algeria had less country to guard
than we, and they cared very little about retaining posses
sion of it. They were satisfied to receive part of its revenues.
They were not permanent ; their dominion was held by a
thread. The Arab dwells in tents ; his magazines are in caves.

INDIAN FIGHTING. 137

When he starts upon a war expedition, he folds his tent,
drives far away his beasts of burden, which transport his
effects, and only carries with him his horse and arms.
Thus equipped, he goes every where ; nothing arrests him ;
and often, when we believe him twenty leagues distant, he
is in ambush at precisely rifle-range from the flanks of his
enemy.

" It may be thought the union of contingents might
retard their movements ; but this is not so. The Arabs,
whether they number 10,000 or a 100,000, move with equal
facility. They go where they wish, and as they wish, upon
a campaign ; the place of rendezvous merely is indicated,
and they arrive there.

" What calculations can be made against such an organi
zation as this ?

" Strategy evidently loses its advantages against such
enemies; a general can only make conjectures; he marches
to find the Arabs, and finds them not ; then, again, when
he leasts expects it, he suddenly encounters them.

" When the Arab despairs of success in battle, he places
his sole reliance upon the speed of his horse to escape
destruction ; and as he is always in a country where he can
make his camp beside a little water ; he travels until he
has placed a safe distance between himself and his enemy."

No people probably on the face of the earth are more
ambitious of martial fame, or entertain a higher apprecia
tion for the deeds of a daring and successful warrior, than
the North American savages. The attainment of such
reputation is the paramount and absorbing object of their
lives. All their aspirations for distinction invariably take
this channel of expression. A young man is never con
sidered worthy to occupy a seat in council until he has
encountered an enemy in battle ; and he who can count the
greatest number of scalps is the most highly honored by
his tribe. This idea is inculcated from their earliest
infancy. It is not surprising, therefore, that, with such
weighty inducements before him, the young man who, as
yet, has gained no renown as a brave or warrior, should be
less discriminate in his attacks than older men who have

138 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

already acquired a name. The young braves should, there
fore be closely watched when encountered on the Plains.

The prairie tribes are seldom at peace with all their
neighbors, and some of the young braves of a tribe are
almost always absent upon a war excursion. These forays
sometimes extend into the heart of the northern states of
Mexico, where the Indians have carried on successful
invasions for many years. They have devastated and
depopulated a great portion of Sonora and Chihuahua. The
objects of these forays are to steal horses and mules, and to
take prisoners ; and if it so happens that a war- party has
been unsuccessful in the accomplishment of these ends, or
has had the misfortune to lose some of its number in
battle, they become reckless, and will often attack a small
party with whom they are not at war, provided they hope
to escape detection. The disgrace attendant upon a return
to their friends without some trophies as an offset to the
loss of their comrades is a powerful incentive to action, and
they extend but little mercy to defenseless travelers who
have the misfortune to encounter them at such a conjunc
ture.

While en route from New Mexico to Arkansas in 1849,
I was encamped near the head of the Colorado River, and
wishing to know the character of the country for a few
miles in advance of our position, I desired an officer to go
out and make the reconnoissance. I was lying sick in my
bed at the time, or I should have performed the duty
myself. I expected the officer would have taken an escort
with him, but he omitted to do so, and started off alone.
After proceeding a short distance, he discovered four
mounted Indians coming at full speed directly towards
him, when, instead of turning his own horse towards camp,
and endeavoring to make his escape (he was well mounted),
or of halting, and assuming a defensive attitude, he delibe
rately rode up to them ; after which the tracks indicated
that they proceeded about three miles together, when the
Indians most brutally killed and scalped my most unfortu
nate but too credulous friend, who might probably have
saved his life, had he not, in the kindness of his excellent

INDIAN FIGHTING. 139

heart, imagined that the savages would reciprocate his
friendly advances. lie was most woefully mistaken, and
his life paid the forfeit of his generous and noble disposi
tion.

I have never been able to get any positive information
as to the persons who committed this murder ; yet circum
stances render it highly probable that they were a party of
young Indians who were returning from an unsuccessful
foray, and they were unable to resist the temptation of
taking the scalp and horse of the lieutenant.

A small number of white men, in traveling upon the
Plains, should not allow a party of strange Indians to ap
proach them unless able to resist an attack under the most
unfavorable circumstances.

It is a safe rule, when a man finds himself alone in the
prairies, and sees a party of Indians approaching, not to
allow them to come near him ; and, if they persist in so
doing, to signal them to keep away. If they do not obey,
and he be mounted upon a fleet horse, he should make for
the nearest timber. If the Indians follow and press him
too closely, he should halt, turn round, and point his gun
at the foremost, which will often have the effect of turning
them back, but he should never draw trigger unless he
finds that his life depends upon the shot ; for, as soon as
his shot is delivered, his sole dependence, unless he have
time to reload, must be upon the speed of his horse.

The Indians of the Plains, notwithstanding the enco
miums that have been heaped upon their brethren who
formerly occupied the Eastern States for their gratitude,
have not, so far as I have observed, the most distant con
ception of that sentiment. You may confer numberless
benefits upon them for years, and the more that is done for
them the more they will expect. They do not seem to
comprehend the motive which dictates an act of benevo
lence or charity, and they invariably attribute it to fear or
the expectation of reward. When they make a present, it
is with a view of getting more than its equivalent in
return.*

* Such is the morale of all savages. The battle of life, and the

140 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

I have never yet been able to discover that the Western
wild tribes possessed any of those attributes which among
civilized nations are regarded as virtues adorning the
human character. They have yet to be taught the first
rudiments of civilization, and they are at this time as far
from any knowledge of Christianity, and as worthy sub
jects for missionary enterprise, as the most untutored
natives of the South Sea Islands. *

The only way to make these merciless freebooters fear or
respect the authority of our government is, when they
misbehave, first of all to chastise them well by striking
such a blow as will be felt for a long time, and thus show
them that we are superior to them in war. They will
then respect us much more than when their good-will is
purchased with presents.

The opinion of a friend of mine, who has passed the
last twenty-five years of his life among the Indians of the
Rocky Mountains, corroborates the opinions I have ad
vanced upon this head ; and although I do not endorse all

selection of species, compels every man to do unto his neighbour
what he would not have his neighbour do unto him. The word
" gratitude " is not to be found in the dialects of the wild men. Even
in Hindostan, it must be borrowed from Arabic or Persian. And when
trying to obtain an African equivalent for u honest," the nearest
approach to it is " one who does not steal." — ED.

* Maugre some evidence to the contrary, I still believe that the
North American Aborigen, like the Tasmanian and the Australian,
is but a temporary denizen of the world who fails to succeed in the
first struggle with nature. He is, like a wild animal, to be broken
but not to be tamed ; as the wolf can be taught to refrain from
worrying, but cannot be made to act as a dog. In his wild state, the
Indian falls before the white man. Settled and semi-civilized he
dies of acute disease. He has virtually disappeared from the wide
regions east of the Mississipi, and the same causes, still ceaselessly
operating, point to his annihilation when the Prairie lands shall have
become the grazing grounds of the Western World.

It is a false sentimentalism that cannot look facts in the face ; an
unsound reverence that models Providence after its own fashion.
The best and wisest book of this, or, perhaps, of any age — I allude to
the "Origin of Species," — which opens up the grandest views of life,
is based upon a practical justification of the ways of eternal wisdom
to man. — ED.

INDIAN FIGHTING. 141

of his sentiments, yet many of them are deduced from
long and matured experience and critical observation. He
says : —

" They are the most onsartainest varmits in all creation,
and I reckon tha'r not mor'ii half human ; for you never
seed a human, arter you'd fed and treated him to the best
fixins in your lodge, jist turn round and steal all your
horses, or ary other thing he could lay his hands on. No,
not adzackly. He would feel kinder grateful, and ask you
to spread a blanket in his lodge ef you ever passed that a-
way. But the Injun he don't care shucks for you, and is
ready to do you a heap of mischief as soon as he quits
your feed. No, Cap.," he continued, " it's not the right
way to give urn presents to buy peace ; but ef I war
governor of these yeer United States, I'll tell you what
I'd do. I'd invite um all to a big feast, and make b'lieve
I wanted to have a big talk ; and as soon as I got um all
together, I'd pitch in and sculp about half of um, and
then t'other half would be mighty glad to make a peace
that would stick. That's the way I'd make a treaty with
the dog'ond, red-bellied varmints ; and as sure as you're
born, Cap., that's the only way."

I suggested to him the idea, that there would be a lack
of good faith and honor in such a proceeding, and that it
would be much more in accordance with my notions of
fair dealing to meet them openly in the field, and there
endeavour to punish them if they deserved it. To this he
replied : —

" Tain't no use to talk about honour with them, Cap. ;
they hain't got no such thing in um ; and they won't
show fair fight, any way you can fix it. Don't they kill
and sculp a white man when-ar they get the better on him ?
The mean varmints, they'll never behave themselves until
you give um a clean out and out licking. They can't
onderstand white folk's ways, and they won't learn um ;
and ef you treat um decently, they think you are afeard.
You may depend on't, Cap., the only way to treat Injuns
is to thrash them well at first, then the balance will sorter
take to you and behave themselves."

142 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

The wealth of the Prairie Indians consists almost ex
clusively in their horses, of which they possess large
numbers ; and they are in the saddle from infancy to old
age. Horsemanship is with them, as with the Arab of
the Sahara, a necessary part of their education. The
country they occupy is unsuited to cultivation, and their
only avocations are war, rapine, and the chase. They
have no fixed habitations, but move from place to place
with the seasons and the game. All their worldly effects
are transported in their migrations, and wherever their
lodges are pitched there is their home. They are strangers
to all cares, creating for themselves no artificial wants, and
are perfectly happy and contented so long as the buffalo is
found within the limits of their wanderings. Every man
is a soldier, and they generally exhibit great confidence in
their own military prowess.

MEETING INDIANS.

On approaching strangers, these people put their horses
at full speed, and persons not familiar with their peculiari
ties and habits might interpret this as an act of hostility ;
but it is their custom with friends as well as enemies, and
should not occasion groundless alarm.*

When a party is discovered approaching thus, and are
near enough to distinguish signals, all that is necessary, in
order to ascertain their disposition, is to raise the hand
with the palm in front, and gradually push it forward and
back several times. They all understand this to be a com
mand to halt ; and if they are not hostile, it will at once be
obeyed.

After they have stopped, the right hand is raised again
as before, and slowly moved to the right and left, which
signifies " I do not know you. Who are you?"f As all
the wild tribes have their peculiar pantomimic signals by
which they are known, they will then answer the inquiry

* A well known Moorish practice. The South African Kafirs,
according to M. Delegorgue, have retained the custom fit the levees
of their Kings.— ED.

MEETING INDIANS. 143

by giving their signal. If this should not be understood,
they may be asked if they are friends, by raising both
hands grasped in the manner of shaking hands, or by
locking the two fore- fingers firmly while the hands are
held up. If friendly, they will respond with the same
signal ; but, if enemies, they will probably disregard the
command to halt, or give the signal of anger by closing
the hand, placing it against the forehead, and turning
it back and forth while in that position.

The pantomimic vocabulary is understood by all the
Prairie Indians, and when oral communication is imprac
ticable, it constitutes the court or general council language
of the Plains. The signs are exceedingly graceful and
significant ; and, what was a fact of much astonishment to
me, I discovered they wTere very nearly the same as those
practised by the mutes in our deaf and dumb schools, and
were comprehended by them with perfect facility."*

The Comanche is represented by making with the hand
a waving motion in imitation of the crawling of a
snake.

The Cheyenne, or " Cut-arm/' by drawing the hand
across the arm, to imitate cutting it with a knife.

The Arapahoes, or " Smellers," by seizing the nose with
the thumb and fore-finger.

The Sioux, or " Cut- throats," by drawing the hand
across the throat.

The Pawnees, or " "Wolves," by placing a hand on each
side of the forehead, with two fingers pointing to the front,
to represent the narrow, sharp ears of the wolf.

The Crows, by imitating the flapping of the bird's
wings with the palms of the hands. f

When Indians meet a party of strangers, and are dis
posed to be friendly, the chiefs, after the usual salutations

* See note at the end of this chapter. — ED.

t The Kiowas, or Prairie-men, make the signs of the Prairie, and
of water-drinking. The Yutas (Utahs), "they who live on moun
tains," have a complicated sign which denotes "living on mountains."
The Blackfeet pass the right-hand, bent spoon-fashion, from the heel
to the little toe of the right foot.— ED.

144. PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

have been exchanged, generally ride out and accompany
the commander of the party some distance, holding a
friendly talk, and, at the same time, indulging their curi
osity by learning the news, etc. Phlegmatic and indifferent
as they appear to be, they are very inquisitive and observ
ing, and, at the same time, exceedingly circumspect and
cautious about disclosing their own purposes.

They are always desirous of procuring, from whomsoever
they meet, testimonials of their good behavior, which they
preserve with great care, and exhibit upon all occasions to
strangers as a guarantee of future good conduct.

On meeting with a chief of the Southern Comanches in
1849, after going through the usual ceremony of embracing,
and assuring me that he was the best friend the Americans
ever had among the Indians, he exhibited numerous certi
ficates from the different white men he had met with, tes
tifying to his friendly disposition. Among these was one
that he desired me to read with special attention, as he
said he was of the opinion that perhaps it might not be so
complimentary in its character as some of the others. It
was in these words :

" The bearer of this says he is a Comanche chief, named Senaco;
that he is the biggest Indian and best friend the whites ever had;
in fact, that he is a first-rate fellow ; but I believe he is a d — d rascal,
so look out for him"

I smiled on reading the paper, and, looking up, found
the chief's eyes intently fixed upon mine with an expression
of the most earnest inquiry. I told him the paper was
not so good as it might be, whereupon he destroyed it.

Five years after this interview, I met Senaco again near
the same place. He recognized me at once ; and, much to
my surprise, pronounced my name quite distinctly.

A circumstance which happened in my interview with
this Indian, shows their character for diplomatic policy.

I was about locating and surveying a reservation of land
upon which the government designed to establish the Co
manches, and was desirous of ascertaining whether they
were disposed voluntarily to come into the measure. In

MEETING INDIANS. 145

this connection, I stated to him that their Great Father,
the President, being anxious to improve their condition,
was willing to give them a permanent location, where they
could cultivate the soil, and, if they wished it, he would
send white men to teach them the rudiments of agriculture,
supply them with farming utensils, and all other requisites
for living comfortably in their new homes. I then desired
him to consult with his people, and let me know what
their views were upon the subject.

After talking a considerable time with his head men, he
rose to reply, and said, " He was very happy to learn that
the President remembered his poor red children in the
Plains, and he was glad to see me again, and hear from
me that their Great Father was their friend ; that he was
also very much gratified to meet his agent who was pre
sent, and he should remember with much satisfaction the
agreeable interview we had had upon that occasion." After
delivering himself of numerous other non-committal ex
pressions of similar import, he closed his speech, and took
his seat without making the slightest allusion to the subject
in question.

On reminding him of this omission, and again demand
ing from him a distinct and categorical answer, he, after
a brief consultation with his people, replied that his talk
was made and concluded, and he did not comprehend why
it was that I wanted to open the subject anew. But, as I
continued to press him for an answer, he at length said,
" You come into our country and select a small patch of
ground, around which you run a line, and tell us the
President will make us a present of this to live upon, when
everybody knows that the whole of this entire country,
from the Red River to the Colorado, is now, and always
has been, ours from time immemorial. I suppose, how
ever, if the President tells us to confine ourselves to these
narrow limits, we shall be forced to do so, whether we
desire it or not."

He was evidently averse to the proposed change in their
mode of life, and has been at war ever since the establish
ment of the settlement.

146 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

The mode of life of the nomadic tribes, owing to their
unsettled and warlike habits, is such as to render their
condition one of constant danger and apprehension. The
security of their numerous animals from the encroachments
of their enemies, and habitual liability to attack, compels
them to be at all times upon the alert. Even during pro
found peace they guard their herds both night and day,
while scouts are often patrolling upon the surrounding
heights to give notice of the approach of strangers, and
enable them to secure their animals and take a defensive
attitude.

When one of these people conceives himself injured, his
thirst for revenge is insatiable. Grave and dignified in
his outward bearing, and priding himself upon never ex
hibiting curiosity, joy, or anger, yet when once roused he
evinces the implacable dispositions of his race ; the affront
is laid up and cherished in his breast, and nothing can
efface it from his mind until ample reparation is made.
The insult must be atoned for by presents, or be washed
out with blood.

WAE EXPEDITIONS.

When a chief desires to organize a war-party, he pro
vides himself with a long pole, attaches a red flag to the
end of it, and trims the top with eagle feathers. He then
mounts his horse in his war- costume, and rides around
through the camp singing the war- song. Those who are
disposed to join the expedition, mount their horses and fall
into the procession ; after parading about for a time, all
dismount, and the war-dance is performed. This ceremony
is continued from day to day, until a sufficient number of
volunteers are found to accomplish the objects desired,
when they set out for the theatre of their intended
exploits.

As they proceed upon their expedition, it sometimes
happens that the chief with whom it originated, and who
invariably assumes the command, becomes discouraged at
not finding an opportunity of displaying his warlike

WAR EXPEDITIONS. 147

abilities, and abandons the enterprise ; in which event,
if others of the party desire to proceed farther, they select
another leader, and push on, and thus so long as any one
of the party holds out.

A war-party is sometimes absent for a great length of
time, and for days, weeks, and months their friends at
home anxiously await their return, until, suddenly, from
afar, the shrill war-cry of an avant courier is heard pro
claiming the approach of the victorious warriors. The
camp is in an instant alive with excitement and commotion.
Men, women, and children swarm out to meet the advan
cing party. Their white horses are painted and decked
out in the most fantastic style, and led in advance of the
triumphal procession; and, as they pass around through
the village, the old women set up a most unearthly howl
of exultation, after which the scalp-dance is performed
with all the pomp and display their limited resources admit
of, the warriors having their faces painted black.

When, on the other hand, the expedition terminates
disastrously by the loss of some of the party in battle, the
relatives of the deceased cut off their own hair, and the
tails and manes of their horses, as symbols of mourning,
and howl and cry for a long time.

In 1854, I saw the widow of a former chief of the
Southern Comanches, whose husband had been dead about
three years, yet she continued her mourning tribute to his
memory, by crying daily for him and refusing all offers to
marry again.

The prairie warrior is occasionally seen with the rifle in
his hand, but his favorite arm is the bow, the use of which
is taught him at an early age. By constant practice, he
acquires a skill in archery that renders him no less for
midable in war than successful in the chase. Their bows
are usually made of the tough and elastic wood of the
" bois d'arc," strengthened and re-inforccd with sinews of
the deer wrapped firmly around, and strung with a cord
of the same material. They are from three to four feet
long. The arrows, which are carried in a quiver upon the
back, are about twenty inches long, of flexible wood, with

148 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

a triangular iron point at one end, and at the other two
feathers intersecting at right angles.*

At short distances (about fifty yards), the bow, in the
hands of the Indian, is effective, and in close proximity
with the buffalo throws the arrow entirely through his
huge carcase. In using this weapon the warrior protects
himself from the missiles of his enemy with a shield made
of two thicknesses of undressed buffalo hide filled in with
hair.

The Comanches, Sioux, and other prairie tribes make
their attacks upon the open prairies. Trusting to their
wonderful skill in equitation and horsemanship, they ride
around their enemies with their bodies thrown upon the
opposite side of the horse, and discharge their arrows in
rapid succession while at full speed ; they will not, however,
often venture near an enemy who occupies a defensive
position. If, therefore, a small party be in danger of an
attack from a large force of Indians, they should seek the
cover of timber or a park of wagons, or, in the absence of
these, rocks or holes in the prairies which afford good
cover.

Attempts to stampede animals are often made when
parties first arrive in camp, and when every one's attention
is pre-occupied in the arrangements therewith connected.
In a country infested by hostile Indians, the ground in
the vicinity of which it is proposed to encamp should be
cautiously examined for tracks and other Indian signs, by
making a circuit around the locality previous to unhar
nessing the animals.

After Indians have succeeded in stampeding a herd of
horses or mules, and desire to drive them away, they are
in the habit of pushing them forward as rapidly as possible
for the first few days, in order to place a wide interval
between themselves and any party that may be in pursuit.

In running off stolen animals, the Indians are generally
divided into two parties, one for driving, and the other to
act as a rear guard. Before they reach a place where they

* I have always seen three feathers, as in Europe, Asia, and
Africa. — ED

TRACKING INDIANS. 149

propose making a halt, they leave a vidctte upon some
prominent point to watch for pursuers and give the main
party timely warning, enabling them to rally their animals
and push forward again.

TRACKING INDIANS.

When an Indian sentinel intends to watch for an enemy
approaching from the rear, he selects the highest position
available, and places himself near the summit, in such an
attitude that his entire body shall be concealed from the
observation of any one in the rear, his head only being
exposed above the top of the eminence.'* Here he awaits
with great patience so long as he thinks there is any possi
bility of danger, and it will be difficult for an enemy to
surprise him or to elude his keen and scrutinizing vigilance.
Meanwhile his horse is secured under the screen of the
hill, all ready when required. Hence it will be evident,
that, in following Indian depredators, the utmost vigilance
and caution must be exercised to conceal from them the
movements of their pursuers. They are the best scouts in
the world, proficient in all the artifices and stratagems
available in border warfare, and, when hotly pursued by a
superior force, after exhausting all other means of evasion,
they scatter in different directions ; and if, in a broken or
mountainous country, they can do no better, abandon their
horses and baggage, and take refuge in the rocks, gorges,
or other hiding-places. This plan has several times been
resorted to by Indians in Texas when surprised, and not
withstanding their pursuers were directly upon them, the
majority made their escape, leaving behind all their ani
mals and other property.

For overtaking a marauding party of Indians who have
advanced eight or ten hours before the pursuing party are
in readiness to take the trail, it is not best to push forward
rapidly at first, as this will weary and break down horses.
The Indians must be supposed to have at least fifty or
sixty miles the start ; it will, therefore, be useless to think

* The face is concealed by a tuft of grass or a bunch of wild sage
held in the hand. — ED.

150 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

of overtaking them without providing for a long chase-
Scouts should be continually kept out in front upon the
trail to reconnoitre and give preconcerted signals to the
main party when the Indians are espied.

In approaching all eminences or undulations in the
prairies, the commander should be careful not to allow any
considerable number of his men to pass upon the summits,
until the country around has been carefully reconnoitred
by the scouts, who will cautiously raise their eyes above
the crests of the most elevated points, making a scrutin
izing examination in all directions ; and, while doing this,
should an Indian be encountered who has been left behind
as a sentinel, he must, if possible, be secured or shot, to
prevent his giving the alarm to his comrades. These pre
cautions cannot be too rigidly enforced when the trail
becomes " warm ;" and if there be a moon it will be better
to lie by in the daytime and follow the trail at night, as
the great object is to come upon the Indians when they are
not anticipating an attack. Such surprises, if discreetly
conducted, generally prove successful.

As soon as the Indians are discovered in their bivouac,
the pursuing party should dismount, leave their horses
under charge of a guard in some sequestered place, and,
before advancing to the attack, the men should be in
structed in signals for their different movements, such as
all will easily comprehend and remember. As, for ex
ample, a pull upon the right arm may signify to face to
the right, and a pull upon the left arm to face to the left ;
a pull upon the skirt of the coat, to halt ; a gentle push on
the back, to advance in ordinary time ; a slap on the back,
to advance in double quick time, etc., etc.

These signals, having been previously well understood
and practised, may be given by the commander to the man
next to him, and from him communicated in rapid succes
sion throughout the command.

I will suppose the party formed in one rank, with the
commander on the right. He gives the signal, and the
men move off cautiously in the direction indicated. The
importance of not losing sight of his comrades on his

TELEGRAPHING BY SMOKES. 151

right and left, and of not allowing them to get out of his
reach, so as to break the chain of communication, will be
apparent to all, and great care should be taken that the
men do not mistake their brothers in arms for the enemy.
This may be prevented by having two pass-words, and
when there is any doubt as to the identity of two men
who meet during the night-operations, one of these words
may be repeated by each. Above all, the men must be
fully impressed with the importance of not firing a shot
until the order is given by the commanding officer, and
also that a rigorous personal accountability will be enforced
in all cases of a violation of this rule.

If the commander gives the signal for commencing the
attack by firing a pistol or gun, there will probably be no
mistake, unless it happens through carelessness by the
accidental discharge of fire-arms.

I can conceive of nothing more appalling, or that tends
more to throw men off their guard and produce confusion,
than a sudden and unexpected night-attack. Even the
Indians, who pride themselves upon their coolness and
self-possession, are far from being exempt from its effects ;
and it is not surprising that men who go to sleep with a
sense of perfect security around them, and are suddenly
aroused from a sound slumber by the terrific sounds of an
onslaught from ail enemy, should lose their presence of
mind.

TELEGRAPHING BY SMOKES.

The transparency of the atmosphere upon the Plains is
such that objects can be seen at great distances ; a moun
tain, for example, presents a distinct and bold outline at
fifty or sixty miles, and may occasionally be seen as far as
a hundred miles.

The Indians, availing themselves of this fact, have
been in the habit of practising a system of telegraphing
by means of smokes during the day and fires by night ;
and, I dare say, there are but few travelers who have
crossed the mountains to California that have not seen

152 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

these signals made and responded to from peak to peak in
rapid succession.

The Indians thus make known to their friends many
items of information highly important to them. If
enemies or strangers make their appearance in the country,
the fact is telegraphed at once, giving them time to secure
their animals and to prepare for attack, defence, or flight.*

War or hunting parties, after having been absent a
long time from their erratic friends at home, and, not
knowing where to find them, make use of the same pre
concerted signals to indicate their presence.

Yery dense smokes may be raised by kindling a large
fire with dry wood, and piling upon it the green boughs
of pine, balsam, or hemlock. This throws off a heavy
cloud of black smoke which can be seen very far.

This simple method of telegraphing, so useful to the
savages both in war and in peace, may, in my judgment,
be used to advantage in the movements of troops co
operating in separate columns in the Indian country.

I shall not attempt at this time to present a matured
system of signals, but will merely give a few suggestions
tending to illustrate the advantages to be derived from the
use of them.

For example, when two columns are marching through
a country at such distances apart, that smokes may be seen
from one to the other, their respective positions may be

* When Indians are pursued by a large force, and do not intend
to make resistance, they generally scatter as much as possible, in
order to perplex and throw off those who follow their trail ; but
they have an understanding where they are to rendezvous in advance.
Sometimes, however, circumstances may arise during a rapid flight,
making it necessary for them to alter these plans, and turn their
course in another direction. When this happens, they are in the
habit of leaving behind them some well-understood signals to indi
cate to their friends in the rear the change in their movements.

For instance, they will sometimes leave a stick or other object to
attract attention ; and, under this, bury an arrow pointing in the
new direction they intend to take. They will then continue on for
a time in the course they have been pursuing, until they get upon
hard ground, where it is difficult to see their tracks, then gradually
turn their course in the new direction. — AUTHOR.

TELEGRAPHING BY SMOKES. 153

made known to each other at any time by two smokes
raised simultaneously or at certain pre- concerted intervals.

Should the commander of one column desire to com
municate with the other, he raises three smokes simul
taneously, which, if seen by the other party, should be
responded to in the same manner. They would then hold
themselves in readiness for any other communications.

If an enemy is discovered in small numbers, a smoke
raised twice at fifteen minutes' interval would indicate it ;
and, if in large force, three times with the same intervals
might be the signal.

Should the commander of one party desire the other to
join him, this might be telegraphed by four smokes at ten
minutes' interval.

Should it become necessary to change the direction of
the line of march, the commander may transmit the
order by means of two simultaneous smokes raised a
certain number of times to indicate the particular direc
tion ; for instance, twice for north, three times for south,
four times for east, and five times for west ; three smokes
raised twice for north-east, three times for north-west, etc.,
etc.*

By multiplying the combinations of signals a great
variety of messages might be transmitted in this manner ;
but, to avoid mistakes, the signals should be written down,
and copies furnished the commander of each separate
party, and they need not necessarily be made known to
other persons.

During the day an intelligent man should be detailed to
keep a vigilant look-out in all directions for smokes, and
he should be furnished with a watch, pencil, and paper, to
make a record of the signals, with their number, and the
time of the intervals between them.

* This rude semaphore is known to most savages. The Western
Africans, to quote no others, still telegraph to slavers iu the offing by
means of smokes.— ED.

154

NOTE (REFERRED TO AT PAGE 143).

Referring to a previous page, I here present the reader with a
few specimens of pantomimic expressions, borrowed from the City
of the Saints, chap. ii. An illustrated description of the natural
gestures used by Surdo-Mutes would be highly desirable, as a basis
for the formation of an organized system of easy communication
between men ignoring each other's tongues. I venture to recom
mend the subject to those who have studied signs as well as
words. My calculation is, that with 100 vocables, and an intelligible
pantomime, one may express any want or wish. It sounds like
reducing the speaking man to the level of the dumb ; but Nature
herself gives the hint.

The following vocabulary, if I may so call it, consists of about
a hundred word-signs, and the reader will be surprised to see how
much can be explained by it.

Halt! — Raise the hand, with the palm in front, and push it
backwards and forwards several times — a gesture well known
in the East.
I don't know you ! — Move the raised hand, with the palm in front,

slowly to the right and left.
/ am angry ! — Close the fist, place it against the forehead, and

turn it to and fro in that position.

Are you friendly ? — Raise both hands, grasped, as if in the act
of shaking hands, or lock the two forefingers together while
the hands are raised.

These signs will be found useful upon the prairie in case of meeting
a suspected band. The Indians, like the Bedouin and North-
African Moslems, do honour to strangers and guests by putting their
horses to speed, couching their lances, and other peculiarities,
which would readily be dispensed with by gentlemen of peaceful
pursuits and shaky nerves. If friendly, the band will halt when the
hint is given and return the salute: if surly, they will disregard
the command to stop, and probably will make the sign of anger.
Then — ware scalp !

Come ! — Beckon with the forefinger, as in Europe, not as is done

in the East.

Come back ! — Beckon in the European way, and draw the fore-
linger towards yourself.
Go ! — Move both hands edgeways (the palms fronting the breast)

towards the left with a rocking-horse motion.
Sit ! — Make a motion towards the ground, as if to pound it with

the ferient of the closed hand.
Lie down ! — Point to the ground, and make a motion as if of

lying down.

Sleep! — Ditto, closing the eyes.

Look! — Touch the right eye with the index and point it
outwards.

THE INDIAN PANTOMIME. 155

Hear /—Tap the right ear with the index tip.

Colours are expressed by a comparison with some object in sight.
Many things, as the blowing of wind, the cries of beasts and birds,
and the roaring of the sea are imitated by sound.

See! — Strike out the two forefingers forward from the eyes.
Smell! — Touch the nose tip. A bad smell is expressed by the

same sign, ejaculating at the same time " pooh ! " and making

the sign of bad.
Taste ! — Touch the tongue tip.
Eat ! — Imitate the action of conveying food with the fingers to

the mouth.
Drink ! — Scoop up with the hand imaginary water into the

mouth.
Smoke! — With the crooked index describe a pipe in the air,

beginning at the lips ; then wave the open hand from the

mouth to imitate curls of smoke.
Speak ! — Extend the open hand from the chin.
Fight ! — Make a motion with both fists to and fro, like a pugilist

of the eighteenth century who preferred a high guard.
Kill! — Smite the sinister palm earthwards with the dexter fist

sharply, in sign of "going down;" or strike out with the dexter

fist towards the ground, meaning to " shut down;" 'or pass the

dexter index under the left forefinger, meaning to " go under."

To show that fighting is actually taking place, make the gestures
as above described ; tap the lips with the palm like an Oriental
woman when " keening," screaming the while 0-a ! 0-a ! to imitate
the war-song.

Wash! — Hub the hand as with invisible soap in imperceptible
water.

Think ! — Pass the forefinger sharply across the breast from light
to left.

Hide! — Place the hand inside the clothing of the left breast.
This means also to put away or to keep secret. To express
"I won't say," make the sign of "I" and "no" (which see),
and hide the hand as above directed.

Love ! — Fold the hands crosswise over the breast, as if embracing
the object, assuming at the same time a look expressing the
desire to carry out the operation. This gesture will be under
stood by the dullest squaw.

Tell truth! — Extend the forefinger from the mouth ("one word").

Tell lie! — Extend the two first fingers from the mouth ("double
tongue," a significant gesture).

Steal ! — Seize an imaginary object with the right hand from under
the left fist. To express horse-stealing, they saw with the right
hand down upon the extended finger of the left, thereby denoting
rope-cutting.

156 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

Trade or Exchange ! — Cross the forefingers of both hands before
the breast — " diamond cut diamond."

This sign also denotes the Americans, and indeed any white men,
who are generically called by the Indians west of the Rocky Moun
tains ;< Shwop," from our swap or swop, an Anglo- Romany word
for barter or exchange.

The pronouns are expressed by pointing to the person designated.
For " I," touch the nose-tip, or otherwise indicate self with the
index. The second and third persons are similarly made known.

Every animal has its precise sign, and the choice of gesture is
sometimes very ingenious. If the symbol be not known, the form
may be drawn on the ground ; and the strong perceptive faculties
of the savage enable him easily to recognise even rough draughts.
A cow or a sheep denotes white men, as if they were their totems.
The Indian's high development of locality also enables him to map
the features of a country readily and correctly upon the sand.
Moreover, almost every grand feature has a highly significant
name— the Flint -water River, for instance, and nothing is easier than
to combine the signs.

The bear is expressed bypassing the hand before the face to mean
ugliness, as the same time grinning and extending the fingers like
claws.

The buffalo is known by raising the forefingers crooked inwards,
in the semblance of horns on both sides of the head.

The elk is signified by simultaneously raising both hands, with the
fingers extended on both sides of the head, to imitate palmated horns.

For the deer, extend the thumbs and the two forefingers of each
hand on each side of the head.

For the antelope, extend the thumbs and forefingers along the
sides of the head to simulate ears and horns.

Mountain sheep are denoted by placing the hands on a level with
the ears, the palms facing backwards, and the fingers slightly
reversed, to imitate the ammonite-shaped horns.

For the beaver, describe a parenthesis, e.g. ( ), with the thumb
and index of both hands, and then with the dexter index imitate the
wagging of the tail.

The dog is shown by drawing horizontally across the breast, from
right to left the two forefingers slightly opened. This is a highly
appropriate arid a traditional gesture. Before the introduction of
horses, the dog was taught to carry the tent-poles, and the motion
expressed the lodge-trail.

To denote the mule or ass, the long ears are imitated by the indices
on both sides and above the head.

For the crow, and indeed any bird, the hands are flapped near the
shoulders. If specification be required, the cry is imitated, or some
peculiarity is introduced. The following will show the ingenuity
with which the Indian can convey his meaning under difficulties. A
Yuta wishing to explain that the torpedo or gymnotus eel is found

THE INDIAN PANTOMIME. 157

in Cotton wood Kanyon Lake, took to it thus : — He made the body
by extending his sinister index to the fore, touched it with the
dexter index at two points on both sides to show legs, and finally
sharply withdrew his right forefinger, to convey the idea of an
electric shock.

Some of the symbols of relationship are highly appropriate, and
not ungraceful or unpicturesque. Man is denoted by a sign some
what too expressive for description ; woman, by passing the hand
down both sides of the head, as if smoothing or stroking the long
hair. A son or daughter is expressed by making with the hand a
movement denoting issue from the loins ; if the child be small, a
bit of the index held between the antagonised thumb and medius
is shown. The same sign of issue expresses both parents, with
additional explanations. To say, for instance, " my mother" you
would first pantomime " 7," or, which is the same thing, u my" then
'•'"woman" and, finally, the symbol of parentage. " My grandmother"
would be conveyed in the same way, adding to the end clasped
hands, closed eyes, and like an old woman's bent back. The sign
for brother and sister is perhaps the prettiest : the two first finger
tips are put into the mouth, denoting that they fed from the same
breast. For the wife (squaw is now becoming a word of reproach
amongst the Indians) the dexter forefinger is passed between the
extended thumb and index of the left.

Of course, there is a sign for every weapon. The knife (scalp or
other) is shown by cutting the sinister palm with the dexter ferient
downwards and towards oneself; if the cuts be made upward with
the palm downwards, meat is understood. The tomahawk, hatchet,
or axe, is denoted by chopping the left band with the right ; the
sword, by the motion of drawing it ; the bow, by the movement of
bending it ; and a spear or lance by an imitation of darting it. For
the gnu, the dexter thumb and fingers are flashed or scattered, i.e.,
thrown outwards and upwards to denote fire. The same movement,
made lower down, expresses a pistol. The arrow is expressed by
nocking it upon an imaginary bow, and by " snapping" with the
index and medius. The shield is shown by pointing with the index
over the left shoulder, where it is slung ready to be brought over
the breast when required.

The following are the most useful words : —
Yes. — Wave the hands straight forwards from the face.
No. — Wave the hand from right to left, as if motioning away.
This sign also means, " I'll have nothing to do with you." Done
slowly and insinuatingly, it informs a woman that she is ctiar-
mante, "not to be touched" being the idea.

Qood. — Wave the hand -from the mouth, extending the thumb
from the index, and closing the other three fingers. This
sign merxns also, " I know." " I don't know" is expressed by
waving the right hand, with the palm outwards, before the right
breast ; or by moving about the two forefingers before the
breast, meaning " two hearts."

158 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

Bad. — Scatter the dexter fingers outwards, as if spirting away
water from them.

Noiu (at once). — Clap both palms together sharply and repeatedly ;
or make the sign of " to-day."

Day. — Make a circle with the thumb and forefinger of both, in
sign of the sun. The hour is pointed out by showing the lumi
nary's place in the heavens. The moon is expressed by a
crescent with the thumb and forefinger: This also denotes a
month. For a year give the sign of rain or snow.

Many Indians ignore the quadripartite division of the seasons,
which seems to be an invention of European latitudes ; the Persians,
for instance, know it, but the Hindus do not. They have, however
distinct terms for the month, all of which are pretty and descriptive,
appropriate and poetical ; e.g., the moon of light nights, the moon of
leaves, the moon of strawberries, for April, May, and June. The
Ojibwe have a queer quarternal division, called Of Sap, Of Abun
dance, Of Fading, and Of Freezing, The Dakota reckon five moons
to winter, and five to summer, leaving one to spring, and one to
autumn ; the year is lunar, and as the change of season is denoted
by the appearance of sore eyes and of racoons, any irregularity
throws the people out.

Night. — Make a closing movement, as if of the darkness, by
bringing together both hands with the dorsa upwards and
the fingers to the fore. The motion is from right to left ; and, at
the end, the two indices are alongside and close to each other.
This movement must be accompanied by bending forward with
bowed head, otherwise it may be misunderstood for the freez
ing over of a lake or river.

To-day.— Touch the nose with the index tip, and motion with the
fist towards the ground.

Yesterday. — Make, with the left hand, the circle which the sun
describes from sunrise -to sunset, or invert the direction from
sunset to sunrise with the right hand.

To-morrow. — Describe the motion of the sun from east to west.
Any number of days may be counted upon the fingers. The
latter, I need hardly say, are the only numerals in the panto
mimic vocabulary.

Among the Dakotas, when they have gone over the fingers and
thumbs of both hands, one is temporarily turned down for one ten :
at the end of another ten a second finger is turned down, and so on,
as amongst children who are learning to count. "Opawinge," one
hundred, is derived from "pawinga," to go round in circles, as the
fingers have all been gone over again for their respective tens ;
" keptopawinge " is from " ake," and " opawinge," — " hundred again,"
being about to recommence the circle of their fingers already com
pleted in hundreds. For numerals above a thousand there is no

THE INDIAN PANTOMIME. 159

method of computing. There is a sign and word for one half of a
thing, but none to denote any smaller aliquot part.

Peace. — Intertwine the fingers of both hands.

Friendship. — Clasp the left with the right hand.

Glad (pleased}. — Wave the open hand outwards from the breast,
to express " good heart."

A Cup. — Imitate its form with both hands, and make the sign of
drinking from it. In this way any utensil can be intelligibly
described — of course provided that the interlocutor has seen it.

Paint. — Daub both the cheeks downwards with the index.

Looking-glass. — Place both palms before the face, and admire your
countenance in them.

Bead. — Point to a bead, or make the sign of a necklace.

Wire. — Show it, or where it ought to be, in the ear-lobe.

Whiskey. — Make the sign of " bad " and " drink " for " bad water."

Blanket or Clothes. — Put them on in pantomime.

A Lodge. — Place the fingers of both hands ridge-fashion before the
breast.

Fire. — Blow it and warm the hands before it. To express the
boiling of a kettle, the sign of fire is made low down, and an
imaginary pot is eaten from.

It is cold. — Wrap up, shudder, and look disagreeable.

Rain. — Scatter the fingers downwards. The same sign denotes
snow.

Wind. — Stretch the fingers of both hands outward, puffing vio
lently the while.

A Storm. — Make the rain sign ; then, if thunder and lightning are
to be expressed, move, as if in anger, the body to and fro, to
show the wrath of the elements.

A Stone. — If light, act as if picking it up : if heavy, as if dropping it.

A Hill. — Close the finger-tips over the head ; if a mountain is to
be expressed, raise them high. To denote an ascent on rising
ground, pass the right palm over the left hand, half doubling up
the latter, so that it looks like a ridge.

A Plain. — Wave both the palms outward and low down.

A River. — Make the sign of drinking, and then wave both the
palms outwards. A rivulet, creek, or stream is shown by the
drinking sign, and by holding the index tip between the thumb
and medius ; an arroyo (dry water-course), by covering up the
tip with the thumb and middle finger.

A Lake. — Make the sign of drinking, and form a basin with both
hands. If a large body of water is in question, wave both
palms outwards, as in denoting a plain. The prairie savages
have never seen the sea, so it would be vain to attempt ex
planation.

A Book. — Place the right palm on the left palm, and then open
both before the face.

160 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

A Letter. — Write with the thumb and dexter index on the sinister

palm.

A Waggon. — Eoll hand over hand, imitating a wheel.
A Waggon-road. — Make the waggon sign, and then wave the hand

along the ground.
Grass.— Point to the ground with the index, and then turn the

fingers upwards to denote growth. If the grass be long, raise

the hand high ; and if yellow, point out that colour.

The pantomime, as may be seen, is capable of expressing detailed
narratives. For instance, supposing an Indian would tell the fol
lowing tale : — " Early this morning, I mounted my horse, rode off
at a gallop, traversed a kanyon or ravine, then over a mountain to a
plain where there was no water, sighted bison, followed them, killed
three of them, skinned them, packed the flesh upon my pony, re
mounted and returned home " — he would symbolise it thus : —

Touches nose—" 7."

Opens out the palms of his hand — " this morning."

Points to east — "early"

Places two dexter forefingers astraddle over sinister index —

" mounted my horse."
Moves both hands upwards and rocking-horse fashion towards the

left— "galloped."
Passes the dexter hand right through thumb and forefinger of

the sinister, which are widely extended — "traversed a kanyon."
Closes the finger-tips high over the head, and waves both palms

outwards — " over a mountain to a plain"
Scoops up with the hand imaginary water into the mouth, and

then waves the hand from the face to denote "no" — "where

there was no water."
Touches eyes— "sighted"
Eaises the forefingers crooked inwards on both sides of the head

— " bison."
Smites the sinister palm downwards with the dexter fist —

"totted?

Shows three fingers — " three of them"
Scrapes the left palm with the edge of the right hand — " skinned

them"
Places the dexter on the sinister palm, and then the dexter palm

on the sinister dorsum — "packed the flesh upon my pony."
Straddles the two forefingers on the index of the left — "re
mounted ;" and finally,
Beckons towards self — " returned home"

To conclude, I can hardly flatter myself that these descriptions
have been made quite intelligible to the reader. They may, how
ever, serve to prepare his mind for a viva voce lesson upon the
prairies, should fate have such thing in store for him. — ED.

161

CHAPTER VII.

Hunting. — Its Benefits to the Soldier. — Buffalo. — Deer. — Antelope.
— Bear. — Big-horn, or Mountain Sheep. — Their Habits, and Hints
upon the best Methods of hunting them.

HUNTING.

I KNOW of no better school of practice for perfecting
men in target-firing, and the use of fire-arms generally,
than that in which the frontier hunter receives his educa
tion. One of the first and most important lessons that he
is taught, impresses him with the conviction that, unless
his gun is in good order, and steadily directed upon the
game, he must go without his supper ; and if ambition
does not stimulate his efforts, his appetite will, and ulti
mately lead to success and confidence in his own powers.

The man who is afraid to place the butt of his piece
firmly against his shoulder, or who turns away his head
at the instant of pulling trigger (as soldiers often do before
they have been drilled at target-practice), will not be likely
to bag much game, or to contribute materially towards the
result of a battle. The successful hunter, as a general rule,
is a good shot, will always charge his gun properly, and
may be relied upon in action. I would, therefore, when
in garrison or at permanent camps, encourage officers and
soldiers in field-sports. If permitted, men very readily
cultivate a fondness for these innocent and healthy exer
cises, and occupy their leisure time in their pursuits ;
whereas, if confined to the narrow limits of a frontier
camp or garrison, having no amusements within their

M

162 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

reach, they are prone to indulge in practices which are
highly detrimental to their physical and moral condi
tion.

By making short excursions about the country, they
acquire a knowledge of it, become inured to fatigue, learn
the art of bivouacking, trailing, etc., etc., all of which
will be found serviceable in border warfare ; and, even if
they should perchance now and then miss some of the
minor routine duties of the garrison, the benefits they
would derive from hunting would, in my opinion, more
than counterbalance its effects. Under the old regime, it
was thought that drills, dress-parades, and guard-mount
ings, comprehended the sum total of the soldier's educa
tion, but the experience of the last ten years has taught us
that these are only the rudiments, and that to combat suc
cessfully with Indians, we must receive instruction from
them, study their tactics, and, where they suit our purposes,
copy from them.

The union of discipline with the individuality, self-
reliance, and rapidity of locomotion of the savage is what
we should aim at. This will be the tendency of the course
indicated ; and it is conceived by the writer that an army
composed of well- disciplined hunters will be the most effi
cient of all others against the only enemy we have to
encounter within the limits of our vast possessions.

I find some pertinent remarks upon this subject in a
very sensible essay by "a late captain of infantry " (U.S.).
He says : —

" It is conceived that scattered bands of mounted hun
ters, with the speed of a horse and the watchfulness of a
wolf or antelope, whose faculties are sharpened by their
necessities ; who, when they get short of provisions, sepa
rate and look for something to eat, and find it in the water,
in the ground, or on the surface ; whose bill of fare ranges
from grass-seed, nuts, roots, grasshoppers, lizards, and
rattle- snakes, up to the antelope, deer, elk, bear, and
buffalo, and who have a continent to roam over, will be
neither surprised, caught, conquered, overawed, or re
duced to famine by a rumbling, bugle-blowing, drum-

HUNTING. 163

beating town passing through their country on wheels at
the speed of a loaded wagon. *

" If the Indians are in the path and do not wish to be
seen, they cross a ridge, and the town moves on, ignorant
whether there are fifty Indians within a mile, or no Indian
within fifty miles. If the Indians wish to see, they return
to the crest of the ridge, crawl up to the edge, pull up a
bunch of grass by the roots, and look through or under it
at the procession."

Although I would always encourage men in hunt
ing when permanently located ; yet, unless you are good
woodsmen, it is not safe to permit them to go out alone in
marching through the Indian country, as, aside from the
danger of encountering Indians, they would be liable to
become bewildered and lost, and this might detain the
entire party in searching for them. The better plan upon
a march is for three or four to go out together, accom
panied by a good woodsman, who will be able with cer
tainty to lead them back to camp.

The little group could ascertain if Indians are about, and
would be strong enough to act on the defensive against
small parties of them ; and, while they are amusing them
selves, they may perform an important part as scouts and
flankers.

An expedition may have been perfectly organised, and
everything provided that the wisest forethought could sug
gest, yet circumstances beyond the control of the most
experienced traveler may sometimes arise to defeat the
best concerted plans. It is not, for example, an impossible
contingency that the traveler may, by unforeseen delays,

* The late " Captain of Infantry (U. S.) " is Captain Patterson.
Sir Francis Head ("Gallop over the Pampas,") falls into the
same error of praising savage at the expense of civilized warfare.
Without entering into the subject further than is necessary, I may
remark, that the Sindh Camel Corps would more than match in
marching any equestrian Indians, from the Comauche to the Pam
pero. The reader will find the matter discussed at greater length
in the City of the Saints, chap. i. — ED.

1G4 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

consume his provisions, lose them in crossing streams, or
have them stolen by hostile Indians, and be reduced to the
necessity of depending upon game for subsistence. Under
these circumstances, a few observations upon the habits of
the different animals that frequent the Plains and on the
best methods of hunting them may not be altogether devoid
of interest or utility in this connection.

THE BUFFALO.

The largest and most useful animal that roams over the
prairies is the buffalo. It provides food, clothing, and
shelter to thousands of natives whose means of livelihood
depend almost exclusively upon this "gigantic monarch of
the prairies."

Not many years since they thronged in countless multi
tudes over all that vast area lying between Mexico and the
British possessions ; but now their range is confined within
very narrow limits, and a few more years wrill probably
witness the extinction of the species.

The traveler, in passing from Texas or Arkansas through
southern New Mexico to California, does not, at the pre
sent day, encounter the buffalo ; but upon all the routes
north of latitude 36° the animal is still found between the
99th and 102nd meridians of longitude.

Although generally regarded as migratory in their
habits, yet the buffalo often winter in the snows of a high
northern latitude. Early in the spring of 1858, I found
them in the Rocky Mountains, at the head of the Arkan
sas and South Platte Rivers; and there was every indica
tion that this was a permanent abiding place for them.

There are two methods generally practised in hunting
the buffalo, viz. : running them on horseback, and stalking,
or still-hunting. The first method requires a sure-footed
and tolerably fleet horse that is not easily frightened. The
buffalo cow, which makes much better beef than the bull,
when pursued by the hunter runs rapidly, and, unless the
horse be fleet, it requires a long and exhausting chase to
overtake her.

"When the buffalo are discovered, and the hunter intends

THE BUFFALO. 165

to give chase, he should first dismount, arrange his saddle-
blanket and saddle, buckle the girth tight, and make
everything about his horse furniture snug and secure. He
should then put his arms in good firing order, and, taking
the lee side of the herd, so that they may not get " the
wind " of him, he should approach in a walk as close as
possible, taking advantage of any cover that may offer.
His horse then, being cool and fresh, will be able to dash
into the herd, and probably carry his rider very near the
animal he has selected before he becomes alarmed.

If the hunter be right-handed, and uses a pistol, he
should approach upon the left side, and when nearly oppo
site and close upon the buffalo, deliver his shot, taking aim.
a little below the centre of the body, and about eight inches
behind the shoulder. This will strike the vitals, and
generally render another shot unnecessary.

When a rifle or shot-gun, is used, the hunter rides up on
the right side, keeping his horse well in hand, so as to be
able to turn off if the beast charges upon him ; this, how
ever, never happens except with a buffalo that is wounded,
when it is advisable to keep out of his reach.

The buffalo has immense powers of endurance, and will
run for many miles without any apparent effort or diminu
tion in speed. The first buffalo I ever saw I followed
about ten miles, and when I left him he seemed to run
faster than when the chase commenced.

As a long buffalo-chase is very severe labor upon a
horse, I would recommend to all travelers, unless they
have a good deal of surplus horse-flesh, never to expend it
in running buffalo.

Still-hunting, which requires no consumption of horse
flesh, and is equally successful with the other method, is
recommended. In stalking on horse-back, the most broken
and hilly localities should be selected, 'as these will furnish
cover to the hunter, who passes from the crest of one hill
to another, examining the country carefully in all direc
tions. When the game is discovered, if it happen to be
011 the lee side, the hunter should endeavor, by making a

166 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

wide detour, to get upon the opposite side, as he will find
it impossible to approach within rifle range with the wind.

When the animal is upon a hill, or in any other posi
tion where he cannot be approached without danger of
disturbing him, the hunter should wait until he moves off
to more favorable ground; and this will not generally
require much time, as they wander about a great deal
when not grazing ; he then pickets his horse, and approaches
cautiously, seeking to screen himself as much as possible
by the undulations in the surface, or behind such other
objects as may present themselves ; but if the surface
should offer no cover, he must crawl upon his hands and
knees when near the game, and in this way he can gene
rally get within rifle range.

Should there be several animals together, and his first
shot take effect, the hunter can often get several other
shots before they become frightened. A Delaware Indian
and myself once killed five buffaloes out of a small herd,
before the remainder were so much disturbed as to move
away ; although we were within the short distance of
twenty yards, yet the reports of our rifles did not frighten
them in the least, and they continued grazing during all
the time we were loading and firing.

The sense of smelling is exceedingly acute with the
buffalo, and they will take the wind from the hunter at as
great a distance as a mile.

When the animal is wounded, and stops, it is better not
to go near him until he lies down, as he will often run a
great distance if disturbed ; but if left to himself, will, in
many cases, die in a short time.

The tongues, humps, and marrow-bones are regarded as
the choice parts of the animal. The tongue is taken out
by ripping open the skin between the prongs of the lower
jaw-bone and pulling it out through the orifice. The
hump may be taken off by skinning down on each side of
the shoulders and cutting away the meat, after which the
hump-ribs can be unjointed where they unite with the
spine. The marrow, when roasted in the bones, is
delicious.

167

THE DEER.

Of all game quadrupeds indigenous to this continent,
the common red deer is probably more widely dispersed
from north to south and from east to west over our vast
possessions than any other. They are found in all lati
tudes, from Hudson's Bay to Mexico, and they clamber
over the most elevated peaks of the western sierras with
the same ease that they range the eastern forests or the
ever-green glades of Florida. In summer they crop the
grass upon summits of the Rocky Mountains, and in
winter, when the snow falls deep, they descend into shel
tered valleys, where they fall an easy prey to the Indians.

Besides the common red deer of the Eastern States, two
other varieties are found in the Rocky Mountains, viz.,
the " black- tailed deer," which takes its name from the
fact of its having a small tuft of black hair upon the end
of its tail, and the lony-tailed species. The former of these
is considerably larger than the eastern deer, and is much
darker, being of a very deep-yellowish iron- gray, with a
yellowish red upon the belly. It frequents the mountains,
and is never seen far away from them. Its habits are
similar to those of the red deer, and it is hunted in the
same way. The only difference I have been able to dis
cern between the long-tailed variety and the common deer
is in the length of the tail and body. I have seen this
animal only in the neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains ;
but it may resort to other localities.

Although the deer are still abundant in many of our
forest districts in the east, and do not appear to decrease
very rapidly, yet there has, within a few years, been a very
evident diminution in the numbers of those frequenting
our Western prairies. In passing through Southern Texas
in 1846, thousands of deer were met with daily ; and,
astonishing as it may appear, it was no uncommon
spectacle to see from one to two hundred in a single herd ;
the prairies seemed literally alive with them ; but in
1855 it was seldom that a herd of ten was seen in the

168 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

same localities. It seemed to me that the vast herds first
met with could not have been killed off by the hunters in
that sparsely-populated section ; and I was puzzled to know
what had become of them. It is possible they may have
moved off into Mexico. They certainly are not in our
territory at the present time.

Twenty years' experience in deer-hunting has taught
me several facts relative to the habits of the animal which,
when well understood, will be found of much service to
the inexperienced hunter, and greatly contribute to his
success. The best target-shots are not necessarily the
most skilful deer-stalkers. One of the great secrets of
this art is in knowing how to approach the game without
giving alarm ; and this cannot easily be done unless the
hunter sees it before he is himself discovered. There are
so many objects in the woods resembling the deer in colour
that none but a practised eye can often detect the
difference.

When the deer is reposing, he generally turns head
from the wind, in which position he can see an enemy
approaching from that direction ; and his nose will
apprise him of the presence of danger from the opposite
side. The best method of hunting deer, therefore, is
across the wind.

While the deer are feeding, early in the morning and a
short time before dark in the evening,* are the best times
to stalk them, as they are then busily occupied and less on
the alert. When a deer is espied with his head down,
cropping the grass, the hunter advances cautiously, keep
ing his eyes constantly directed upon him, and screening
himself behind intervening objects, or, in the absence of
other cover, crawls along upon his hands and knees in the
grass, until the deer hears his steps and raises his head,
when he must instantly stop and remain in an attitude
fixed and motionless as a statue, for the animal's vision is
his keenest sense. When alarmed he will detect the

* In most countries wild animals become very shy about evening
time, when instinct warns them to seek safe places for the night's
rest. — ED.

THE DEER. 169

slightest movement of a small object, and, unless the
hunter stands or lies perfectly still, his presence will be
detected. If the hunter does not move, the deer will,
after a short time, recover from his alarm, and resume his
grazing, when he may be again approached. The deer
always exhibits his alarm by a sudden jerking of the tail
just before he raises his head.

I once saw a Delaware Indian walk directly up within
rifle range of a deer that was feeding upon the open
prairie and shoot him down ; he was, however, a long
time in approaching, and made frequent halts whenever
the animal flirted his tail and raised his head. Although
he often turned toward the hunter, yet he did not appear
to notice him, probably taking him for a stump or a tree.

When the deer are lying down in the smooth prairie,
unless the grass is tall, it is difficult to get near them, as
they are generally looking around, and become alarmed
at the least noise.

The Indians are in the habit of using a small instrument
which imitates the bleat of the young fawn, with which
they lure the doe within range of their rifles. The young
fawn gives out no scent upon its track until it is suffi
ciently grown to make good running, and instinct teaches
the mother that this wise provision of nature to preserve
the helpless little quadruped from the ravages of wolves,
panthers, and other carnivorous beasts, will be defeated if
she remains with it, as her tracks cannot be concealed.
She, therefore, hides her fawn in the grass, where it is al
most impossible to see it, even when very near it, goes off
to some neighbouring thicket within call, and makes her
bed alone. The Indian pot-hunter, who is but little scru
pulous as to the means he employs in accomplishing his
ends, sounds the bleat along near the places where he
thinks the game is lying, and the unsuspicious doe, who
imagines that her offspring is in distress, rushes with
headlong impetuosity toward the sound, and often goes
within a few yards of the hunter to receive her death-
wound.

This is cruel sport, and can only be justified when meat

170 PRAIRTE TRAVELER.

is scarce, which is very frequently the case in the Indian's
larder.

It does not always comport with a man's feelings of
security, especially if he happens to be a little nervous, to
sound the deer-bleat in a wild region of country. I once
undertook to experiment with the instrument myself, and
made my first essay in attempting to call up an antelope
which I discovered in the distance. I succeeded admir
ably in luring the wary victim within shooting range, had
raised upon my knee, and was just in the act of pulling
trigger, when a rustling in the grass on my left drew niy
attention in that direction, where, much to my surprise, I
beheld a huge panther within about twenty yards, bound
ing with gigantic strides directly toward me. I turned
my rifle, and in an instant, much to my relief and gratifi
cation, its contents were lodged in the heart of the beast.

Many men, when they suddenly encounter a deer, are
seized with nervous excitement, called, in sporting parlance,
the " buck fever" which causes them to fire at random.
Notwithstanding I have had much experience in hunting,
I must confess that I am never entirely free from some of
the symptoms of this malady, when firing at large game;
and I believe that in four out of five cases where I have
missed the game, my balls have passed too high. I have
endeavoured to obviate this by sighting my rifle low; and
it has been attended with more successful results. The
same remarks apply to most other men I have met with.
They fire too high when excited.*

THE ANTELOPE.

This animal frequents the most elevated bleak and naked
prairies in all latitudes from Mexico to Oregon, and con
stitutes an important item of subsistence with many of the
Prairie Indians. It is the most wary, timid, and fleet
animal that inhabits the Plains. It is about the size of a
small deer, with a heavy coating of coarse, wiry hair, and

* High firing, with some recruits, is a kind of disease. I have
seen men elevate their pieces to an angle of 45°.

THE ANTELOPE. 171

its flesli is more tender and juicy than that of the deer.
It seldom enters a timbered country, but seems to delight
in cropping the grass from the elevated swells of the
prairies. When disturbed by the traveler, it will circle
around him with the speed of the wind, but does not stop
until it reaches some prominent position, whence it can
survey the country on all sides, and nothing seems to
escape its keen vision. They will sometimes stand for a
long time and look at a man, provided he does not move
or go out of sight ; but if he goes behind a hill, with the
intention of passing around and getting nearer to them,
he will never find them again in the same place. I have
often tried the experiment, and invariably found, that, so
soon as I went where the antelope could not see me, he
moved off. Their sense of hearing, as well as vision, is
very acute, which renders it difficult to stalk them. By
taking advantage of the cover afforded in broken ground,
the hunter may, by moving slowly and cautiously over
the crests of the irregularities in the surface, sometimes
approach within rifle-range.

The antelope possesses a greater degree of curiosity than
any other animal I know of, and will often approach very
near a strange object.* The experienced hunter, taking
advantage of this peculiarity, lies down and secretes him
self in the grass, after which he raises his handkerchief,
hand, or foot, so as to attract the attention of the animal,
and thus often succeeds in beguiling him within shooting
distance.

In some valleys near the Rocky Mountains, where the
pasturage is good during the winter season, they collect in
immense herds. The Indians are in the habit of surround
ing them in such localities and running them with their
horses until they tire them out, when they slay large
numbers.

The antelope makes a track much shorter than the deer,

* Curiosity is a faiblcsse with many species of wild animals. A
red flag hoisted high will cause a hippopotamus to raise his head
out of water, for a full minute. — ED.

172 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

very broad and round at the heel, and quite sharp at the
toe ; a little experience renders it easy to distinguish
them.

THE BEAR

Besides the common black bear of the Eastern States,
several others are found in the mountains of California,
Oregon, Utah, and New Mexico, viz., the grizzly, brown,
and cinnamon varieties ; all have nearly the same habits,
and are hunted in the same manner.

From all I had heard of the grizzly bear, I was induced
to believe him one of the most formidable and savage
animals in the universe, and that the man who would
deliberately encounter and kill one of these beasts had per
formed a signal feat of courage which entitled him to a
lofty position among the votaries of Nimrod. So firmly
had I become impressed with this conviction, that I should
have been very reluctant to fire upon one had I met him
when alone and on foot. The grizzly bear is assuredly the
monarch of the American forests, and, so far as physical
strength is concerned, he is perhaps without a rival in the
world ; but, after some experience in hunting, my opinions
regarding his courage and his willingness to attack men
have very materially changed.

In passing over the elevated table-lands lying between
the two forks of the Platte River in 1858, I encountered
a full-grown female grizzly bear with two cubs, very
quietly reposing upon the open prairie, several miles dis
tant from any timber. This being the first opportunity
that had ever occurred to me for an encounter with the
ursine monster, and being imbued with the most exalted
notions of the beast's proclivities for offensive warfare,
especially when in the presence of her offspring, it may
very justly be imagined that I was rather more excited
than usual. I, however, determined to make the assault.
I felt the utmost confidence in my horse, as she was afraid
of nothing ; and, after arranging everything about my
saddle and arms in good order, I advanced to within

THE BEAR 173

about eighty yards before I was discovered by the bear,
when she raised upon her haunches and gave me a scruti
nizing examination. I seized this opportune moment to
fire, but missed my aim, and she started off, followed by
her cubs at their utmost speed. After reloading my rifle,
I pursued, and, on coming again within range, delivered
another shot, which struck the large bear in the fleshy
part of the thigh, whereupon she set up a most distressing
howl and accelerated her pace, leaving her cubs behind.
After loading again I gave the spurs to my horse and
resumed the chase, soon passing the cubs, who were
making the most plaintive cries of distress. They were
heard by the dam ; but she gave no other heed to them
than occasionally to halt for an instant, turn around,
sit up on her posteriors, and give a hasty look back ; but,
as soon as she saw me following her, she invariably turned
again and redoubled her speed. I pursued about four miles
and fired four balls into her before I succeeded in bring
ing her to the ground ; and, from the time I first saw her
until her death- wound, notwithstanding I was very often
close upon her heels, she never came to bay or made the
slightest demonstration of resistance. Her sole purpose
seemed to be to make her escape, leaving her cubs in the
most cowardly manner.

Upon three other different occasions I met the mountain
bears, and once the cinnamon species, which is called the
most formidable of all ; and, in none of these instances, did
they exhibit the slightest indication of anger or resistance,
but invariably ran from me. Such is my experience with this
formidable monarch of the mountains. It is possible that
if a man came suddenly upon the beast in a thicket, where
it could have no previous warning, he might be attacked ;
but, it is my opinion, that if the bear gets the wind or sight
of a man at any considerable distance, it will endeavor to
get away as soon as possible. I am so fully impressed with
this idea that I shall hereafter hunt bear with a feeling of
as much security as I would have in hunting the buffalo.*

* It is not tile experience of Europe and Asia. The bear hunter

174 PRAIRIE TRAVELER.

The grizzly, like the black bear, hybernates in winter,
and makes his appearance in the spring with his claws
grown out long and very soft and tender ; he is then poor,
and unfit for food.

I have heard a very curious fact stated by several old
mountaineers regarding the mountain bears, which, of
course, I cannot vouch for ; but it is given by them with
great apparent sincerity and candor. They assert that no
instance has ever been known of a female bear having been
killed in a state of pregnancy. This singular fact in the
history of the animal seems most inexplicable to me, unless
she remain concealed in her brumal slumber until after she
has been delivered of her cubs.

I was told by an old Delaware Indian that when the
bear has been traveling against the wind and wishes to lie
down, he always turns in an opposite direction, and goes
some distance away from his first track before making his
bed. If an enemy then comes upon his trail, his keen
sense of smell will apprise him. of the danger. The same
Indian mentioned, that when a bear had been pursued and
sought shelter in a cave, he had often endeavoured to eject
him with smoke, but that the bear would advance to the
mouth of the cave, where the fire was burning, and put it
out with his paws, then retreat into the cave again.*
This would indicate that Bruin, is endowed with some
glimpses of reason beyond the ordinary instincts of the
brute creation in general, and, indeed, is capable of dis
cerning the connection between cause and effect. Not
withstanding the extraordinary intelligence which this
quadruped exhibits upon some occasions, upon others he
shows himself to be one of the most stupid brutes imagin
able. For example, when he has taken possession of a

of the Pyrenees seldom passes through life unscathed ; and there
are probably more hair-breadth escapes from the bear of the Hima
layas than from the tiger of the plains. — ED.

* All bear countries have some superstition about the beast. Per
sians will gravely assure you, that to compass the traveller's de
struction, " Ephraim " will bind round his head a turbaii of grass,
and mount an ass like a Mullah. — ED.

THE BIG-HORN. 175

cavern, and the courageous hunter enters with a torch and
rifle, it is said he will, instead of forcibly ejecting the in
truder, raise himself upon his haunches and cover his eyes
with his paws, so as to exclude the light, apparently
thinking that in this situation he cannot be seen. The
hunter can then approach as close as he pleases, and shoot
him down.

THE BIG-HORN.

The big-horn or mountain sheep, which has a body like
the deer, with the head of a sheep, surmounted by an enor
mous pair of short, heavy horns, is found throughout the
Rocky Mountains, and resorts to the most inaccessible
peaks, and to the wildest and least frequented glens. It
clambers over almost perpendicular cliffs with the greatest
ease and celerity, and skips from rock to rock, cropping
the tender herbage that grows upon them.

It has been supposed by some, that this animal leaps
down from crag to crag, lighting upon its horns, as an
evidence of which, it has been advanced that the front
part of the horns is often much battered. This, I believe,
to be erroneous, as it is very common to see horns that
have no bruises upon them.

The old mountaineers say they have often seen the
bucks engaged in desperate encounters with their huge
horns, which, in striking together, made loud reports.
This will account for the marks sometimes seen upon
them.

The flesh of the big-horn, when fat, is more tender,
juicy, and delicious, than that of any other animal I know
of, but it is a bonne bouche which will not grace the tables
of our city epicures until a railroad to the Rocky Moun
tains affords the means of transporting it to a market a
thousand miles distant from its haunts.

In its habits, the mountain sheep greatly resembles the
chamois of Switzerland, and it is hunted in the same
manner. The hunter traverses the most inaccessible and
broken localities, moving along with great caution, as the

176 PRAIRIE TRAVELER

least unusual noise causes them to flit away like a phan
tom, and they will be seen no more. The animal is gre
garious, but it is seldom that more than eight or ten are
found in a flock. When not grazing, they seek the
sheltered sides of the mountains, and repose among the
rocks.

ITINERARIES.

LIST OF ITINERARIES :

SHOWING THE DISTANCES BETWEEN CAMPING- PLACES, THE CHARACTER OF
THE BOARDS, AND THE FACILITIES FOR OBTAINING WOOD, WATER, AND
GRASS ON THE PRINCIPAL ROUTES BETWEEN THE MISSISSIPI RIVER AND
THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

No. Page

I. From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe and Albuquerque,

New Mexico. By Captain K. B. Marey, U. S. A. . .181

II. From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fe, by the way of the

upper ferry of the Kansas River and the Cunarron . . 183

III. Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out

from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Doiia Ana and El Paso,
New Mexico, in 1849. By Captain K. B. Marcy, U. S. A. 186

IV. From St. Joseph, Missouri, to Great Salt Lake City . 189
' V. From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California 197

VI. From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Fran
cisco, California 200

' VII. From Great Salt Lake City to San Francisco . . .202

VIII. Captain J. H. Simpson's Wagon Road from Camp Floyd to
Genoa, Carson Valley, U.T. Explored by direction of
General A. G. Johnston, commanding the Department of
Utah between the 2nd May arid 12th June, 1859 . . 205

IX. From Fort Bridger to the " City of Rocks." From Captain

Handcock's Journal 208

X. From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hud-

speth's Cut-off .211

XI. Sublet's Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and

Fort Hall Roads 211

XII. From Lawson's Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort
Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon
Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones 212

XIII. From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon

City, Oregon, via Fort Hall ..... 213

XIV. Route for pack-trains from John Day's River to Oregon City 216
XV. From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonia, Texas . 316

180 LIST OF ITINERARIES.

No. Page.

XVI. Wagon-road from San Antonia, Texas, to El Paso, N. M.,

and Fort Yuma, California 217

XVII. From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California. . . .219

XVIII. From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California, via

Santa Cruz 220

XIX. From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's

Peak and " Cherry Creek," N.T., via the Arkansas River 222

XX. From St. Paul's, Min, to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon . 225

XXL Lieutenant E. F. Beale's route from Albuquerque to the

Colorado River . 230

XXII. Captain Whipple's route from Albuquerque, Mew Mexico,

to San Pedro, California . . . . . .231

XXIII, From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California. From Lieu

tenant R. S. Williamson's Report 234

XXIV. A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, opened

by Captain J, H. Simpson, U. S. A., in 1858 , 236

XXV. From Fort Thome, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, Calfornia 237

XXVI, Lieutenant Bryan's Route from the Laramie Crossing of

the South Platte to Fort Bridger, via Bridger's Pass , 239

XXVII. Wagon-route from Denver City, at the mouth of Cherry

Creek, to Fort Bridger, Utah 24 1

XXVIII. From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney . 243

XXIX. From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico.

By Col. W. W. Loring, U. S. A 244

XXX. Wagon-route from Guaymas, Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona.

From Captain Stone's Journal 249

XXXI. From Fort Hope, Fraser River, to Fort Colvile on the

Columbia. According to Lieutenant Palmer, R.E. . 250

FORT SMITH TO ALBUQUERQUE. 181

I. — From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe and Albu
querque, New Mexico. By Captain R. 13. MARCY,
IT. S. A.

Miles.

From Fort Smith to —

15. Strickland's Farm. — The road crosses the Poteau River at Fort
Smith, where there is a ferry ; it then follows the Poteau
bottom for ten miles. This part of the road is very muddy
after heavy rains.. At 14 miles, it passes the Choctaw Agency,
where there are several stores. There is the greatest abun
dance of wood, water, and grass at all camps for the first 200
miles. Where any of these are wanting it will be specially
mentioned. The road passes through the Choctaw settle
ments for about 150 miles, and corn and supplies can be pur
chased from these Indians at reasonable rates.

11. Camp Creek. —Road crosses a prairie of three miles in length,

then enters a heavy forest. The camp is on a small branch,
with grass plenty in a small prairie about 400 yards to the
left of the road.

12. Coon Creek. — Road passes through the timber, and is muddy in

a rainy season.

12. Sans Bois Creek. — Prairie near ; some Choctaw houses at the
crossing.

14. Bend of Sans Bois Creek. — Indian farm.

15. South Fork of Canadian, or "Gain's Creek." — Road traverses a

very rough and hilly region. There is a ford and a ferry upon
the creek. Indian farm on the west bank.
12. First ford of Coal Creek. — Road crosses over a rolling prairie,

and at four miles the Fort Washita road turns to the left.
Second ford of Coal Creek. — Indian Farm.

4. Little Cedar Mountain. — Very rough, mountainous road.
6. Stony Point. — Very rough, mountainous road.

5. Shawnee Village. — Several Indian houses.

14. Shawnee Town. — Road passes several small prairies. Indian
settlement ; store on opposite bank of Canadian River, near
the camp.

21. Delaware Mountain. — Road passes over a very beautiful country,
with small streams of good water frequent, and good camps.
It crosses small prairies and groves of timber.
5. Boggy River. — Road passes a country similar to that mentioned

above.

3. Clea.r Creek. — Road turns to the right near a prominent round
mound. Beautiful country, diversified with prairies and
timbered lands.

7. Branch of Topof ki Creek. — Beautiful country and fine roads.
9£. Cane Creek. — Excellent camp.

182 FORT SMITH TO <• ALBUQUERQUE.

Miles.

5. Small Branch. — Road passes about two miles from the old
" Camp Arbuckle," built by Captain Marcy in 1853, since oc
cupied by Black Beaver and several Delaware families.

11|. Mustang Creek. — Road runs on the dividing ridge between the
waters of the Washita and Canadian, on a high prairie.

17^. Choteau's Creek. — Road passes on the high prairie opposite
Choteau's old trading-house, and leaves the outer limits of
the Indian settlements. Excellent road, and good camps at
short distances.

llf . Choteau's Creek. — Road runs up the creek ; is smooth and
good.

12|. Head of Choteau's Creek. — Road runs up the creek, and is
good .

17£. Branch of Washita River. — Road runs over an elevated prairie
country, and passes a small branch at six miles from last
camp.

of. Branch of "Spring Creek." — Good camp.

16. Head of " Spring Creek." — Road traverses a high prairie coun
try, is smooth and firm.
13. Red Mounds. — Road runs over a high rolling prairie country,

and is excellent.
5. Branch of Washita River. — Good road.

15|. Branch of Canadian. — Road continues on the ridge dividing
the Washita and Canadian Rivers; is smooth and firm.

17|. Branch of Washita River. — Road continues on the "divide."

18. Branch of Canadian. — Road continues on the divide from one

to four miles from the Canadian.

19. On Canadian River. — Good Road.

16. Little Washita River. — Good road ; timber becoming scarce.

13. Branch of Canadian. — Good road.

17i. Antelope Buttes. — Road runs along the Canadian bottom and
in places is sandy.

14. Rush Lake. — Small pond on the prairie. No wood within half

a mile ; some buffalo chips ; poor wrater.

16. Branch of Washita River. — Good road on the divide.

10^. Dry River. — Road descends a very long hill, and crosses the
dry river near the Canadian. Water can be found by digging
about a foot in the sand of the creek. Good grass on the
west bank.

17. Branch of Canadian. — Road winds up a very long and abrupt

hill, but is smooth and firm.
22£. Timbered Creek. — Road passes over a very elevated prairie

country, and descends by a long hill into the beautiful valley

of Timbered Creek.
11J. Spring Branch. — Good camp.
14. Spring Branch. — Good camp.
17|. Branch of Canadian. — Road passes a small branch 31 miles

from the last camp.

FORT LEAVENWORTH TO SANTA FE. 183

18§. Branch of Canadian. — Road passes a small branch of the Ca
nadian at 8 miles from the last camp.

17$. Spring Branch. — Good road.
9>. Branch of Canadian. — Good road and camp.

18£. Branch of the Canadian. — Good road and camp.

10£. Pools of Water.— Good camp.
10. Large Pond.— Good camp.

25. Pools of Water. — No wood ; water brackish. The road passes
over a very elevated and dry country, without wood or water.

18£. Head of Branch. — At 13^ miles the road crosses a branch of
the Canadian.

19J. Laguria Colorado. — Road here falls into an old Mexican cart-
road. Good springs on the left up the creek, with wood and
grass abundant.
7. Pools of Water. — Road runs through cedars.

lOf . Pajarito Creek.— Grass begins to be rather short in places, but
is abundant on the creek.

13j Gallenas Creek. — Good camp.
15. 2d Gallenas Creek. — Good road.

16$. Pecos River at Anton Chico.— This is the first settlement after
leaving Camp Arbuckle. Corn and vegetables can be pur
chased here. Grass is generally short here.

15. Pecos River opposite Questa. — Road runs through the cedar,
and is firm and good. Camp is in sight of the town of
Questa, upon a very elevated bluff'.

21 f. Laguna Colorado. — Road passes through a wooded country for
a portion of the distance, but leaves it before reaching camp,
where there is no wood, but water generally sufficient for
trains. In very dry seasons, it has been known to fail. The
road forks here, the right leading to Santa Fe via Galistio
(45 £ miles), and the left to Albuquerque.

22$. San Antonio. — Good road.

18f. Albuquerque. — Good road.

Total distance from Fort Smith to Albuquerque, 814| miles.
Total distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fe, 819 miles.

IT. — From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fe by the way of the
vpper ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron.

[In this table, the distances, taken by an odometer, are given in miles and hundredths of
a mile. The measured distances between the crossing of the Arkansas and Santa Fe" are
from Major Kendrick's published table. Wood, water, and grass are found at all points
where the absence of them is not stated.]

From Fort Leavenworth to —
2-88. Salt Creek.
9-59. Stranger's Creek.

184 FORT LEAVEN WORTH TO SANTA FE.

Miles.

13-54. Stranger's Creek.

9-60. Grasshopper Creek.

6-50.

2-86.

2-60.

4-54. Soldier's Creek.

2-45. Upper Ferry, Kansas River.

7-41. Pottawatomie Settlement.

575. Pottawatomie Creek.

3-89. White Wakarussi Creek.

7-78.

6-27. „ „

O73. Road from Independence — No place to encamp.

5-72. White Wakarussi Creek.

2-51.

2-82. 142-mile Creek.

7-80. Bluff Creek.

5-77. Rock Creek.

5-08. Big John Spring.

2-29. Council Grove.

7-97. Elm Creek.— Water generally.

8*06. Diamond Spring.

1-42. Diamond Creek.
15-46. Lost Spring. — No wood.

9-25. Mud Creek. — Water uncertain ; no wood.

7-76. Cottonwood Creek.

6" 16. Water Holes. — Water generally ; no wood.
12-44. Big Turkey Creek— No water.

7'83. Little Turkey Creek.— Water uncertain ; no wood.
18-19. Little Arkansas River.

10-60. Owl Creek. — Water generally in holes above and below
crossing.

6'39. Little Cow Creek. — Water only occasionally.

2-93. Big Cow Creek.— Water holes, 10 miles (estimated). Water

uncertain ; no wood.
18*24. Bend of the Arkansas.

6-66. Walnut Creek.

16-35. Pawnee Rock.— Teams sometimes camp near here and drive
stock to the Arkansas to water. No wood.

5-28. Ash Creek. — Water above and below crossing, uncertain.

6'65. Pawnee Fork. — Best grass some distance above crossing.

From Pawnee Fork to the lower crossing of the Arkansas, a
distance of 98.} miles, convenient camping-places can be
found along the Arkansas ; the most prominent localities
are therefore only mentioned. A supply of fuel should be
laid in at Pawnee Fork to last till you pass Fort Mann,
though it may be obtained, but inconveniently, from the

FORT LEAVENWORTH TO SANTA FE. 185

Miles.

opposite side of the Arkansas. Dry Route branches off at
3i miles (estimated). This route joins the main one again
10 miles this side of Fort Mann. It is said to be a good
one, but deficient in water, and without wood.

11-43. Coon Creek.

46 '58. Jackson's Island.
5-01. Dry Route comes in.

10-05. Fort Mann.

23-34. Lower Crossing of the Arkansas.— The Bent's Fort Route
branches oft' at this point. For the distances upon this
route, see next table. A supply of wood should be got
from this vicinity, to last till you reach Cedar Creek,

15-68. Water-hole. — Water uncertain ; no wood.

30'02. Two Water-holes. — Water uncertain ; no wood.

14*14. Lower Cimarron Springs. — No wood.

20-00. Pools of Water. — Water uncertain ; no wood.

19-02. Middle Springs of the Cimarron. — No wood.

12'93. Little Crossing of the Cimarron. — No wood.

14"10. Upper Cimarron Springs. — No wood. Pools of water, 7
miles (estimated). No wood.

19-05. Cold Spring.— A tree here and there in the vicinity. Pools of
water, 11 miles (estimated). Water uncertain ; no wood.

16-13. Cedar Creek.— M'Nees' Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Water
indifferent and uncertain ; scant pasture; no wood. Arroyo
del la Sena, 2* miles (estimated). No water.

21-99. Cotton wood Creek. — No water. Arroyo del Burro, 5 miles
(estimated).

15-17. Rabbit-ear Creek. — 10 miles (estimated), springs. Round
Mound, 8 miles (estimated). No water ; no wood ; no
camping-place. Rock Greek, 10 miles (estimated). Graz
ing scant ; no wood.

26'40. Whetstone Creek. — Spring ; no wood. Arroyo Don Carlos,
10£ miles (estimated). Water, etc., to the left of the road.

14-13. Point of Rocks. — Water and grass up the canon, just after
crossing the point ; scattering shrub cedars on the neigh
boring heights.

16-62. Sandy Arroyo. — Water uncertain ; no wood. Crossing of
Canadian River, 4| miles (estimated). Grazing above the
crossing; willows.

10-05. Rio Ocate. — Wood ^ of a mile to right of road ; grass in the
canon. Pond of water, 13| miles (estimated). No wood.

19'65. Wagon Mound. — Santa Clara Springs. Wood brought from
the Rio Ocat6. Rio del Perro (Rock Creek), 17£ miles
(estimated).

21-62. Caiion del Lobo.— Rio Moro, 3J miles (estimated) Rio
Sapillo, 1 mile (estimated). The Bent's Fort Route comes
in here.

186 FORT SMITH TO DONA ANA AND EL PASO.

Miles.

18-00. Las Vegas. — Forage purchasable.

13-05. Tacolote. — Forage purchasable. Ojo Vernal, 5 miles (esti
mated). No grass to speak of.

14-00. San Miguel. — Forage purchasable ; no grass.

21-18. Euins of Pecos. — Grazing very scant. Cottonwood Creek, 4
miles (estimated). Water uncertain ; no grass.

13*41. Stone Corral. — No grass.

10-80. Santa Fe. — Forage purchasable ; no grazing.

III. — Camping -places upon a road discovered and marked out
from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Dona Ana and El Paso,
New Mexico, in 1849. By Captain R.B. MARCY, U.S.A.

Miles.

Fort Smith to—

65. South Fork of the Canadian. — The road from Fort Smith to
the South Fork of the Canadian follows the same track as
the road to Albuquerque and Santa Fe, and by reference to
the tables of distances for that road the intermediate
camps will be found.

15. Prior's Store. — Grass, wood, and water near.
172. Little Boggy. — Good camp. Wherever there are not the
requisites of wood, water, and grass for encamping, it will
be specially noted ; when they are not mentioned they
will always bo found.

13. Little Boggy.— Good camp.
15s. Boggy Depot. — Store and blacksmith's shop.

12f. Blue River. — The road passes over a flat section, which is
muddy after rains.

83. Fort Washita. — Good camp half a mile before reaching the
fort. The road forks at the Indian village on the Boggy,
the left being the most direct. There are settlers along
the road, who will give all necessary information to
strangers. Corn plenty.

22. Preston Texas, on Red River.— The road from Fort Washita
runs through the Indian settlements, passing many places
where good camps may be found, and crosses the Red
River at Preston. There is a ferry here ; also stores and a
blacksmith's shop.

20. M'Carty's. — Road runs through a heavy-timbered country,

crossing several streams where there are good camps.

14|. Elm Fork of the Trinity, at Gainesville. — Road passes over a

section diversified by prairies and groves of timber.

FORT SMITH TO DONA ANA AND EL PASO. 187

Miles.

1-2. Elm Fork of Trinity.— Good Camp.

11. Elm Fork of Trinity. — Excellent camps. Road passes over

a beautiful country rapidly settling up with farmers, who
cultivate and sell grain at low rates.
9. Turkey Creek. — Tributary of Red River. Road emerges from

the upper " Cross Timbers " two miles from camp.
26f. Buffalo Springs.— Springs of good water, but of limited
amount, in a ravine.

12. On a Ravine. — Pools of good water and a small running

stream, not reliable.
13.i. On a Ravine. — Pools of water.
17^. On a Ravine. — Pools of water.
17£. Running branch of Cottonwood Spring. — Branch about two

feet wide, good water ; wood about half a mile distant.
14. Fort Belknap. — Good road through post-oak timber. County

seat and town at Fort Belknap. Good camp on the west

side of the Brazos, whioh is always fordable except in very

high water.

14. Small Branch. — Water in holes.
18. Water-holes. — Pools of water. Road passes over prairie and

timbered lands, is very smooth and level.
7%. Steam's Farm, on Clear Fork of the Brazos River. — Good

road; excellent camp, with abundance of wood, water, and

grass. Indian reservation here.

13. Elm Creek, or Qua-qua-ho-no. — Good road over rolling

prairie and mesquite lands.

17. Ravine. — Pools of standing water. Good road.

18. Ravine — Pools of standing water. Good road.

27. Small Creek. — Tributary of the Brazos. Good road.

6. Pools of water. — Good camp.
8|. Small Branch. — Good water.

20^. Tributary of the Colorado. — Brackish water.

3j. Rio Colorado. — Brackish water. Road very excellent.

2^. Spring on the Road. — Good water.

2fg. Big spring to the left of the road, affording a great amount of
water, which runs off in a small stream.

23. Laguna Colorado. — Water somewhat sulphurous; fuel, ines-
quite roots ; grass abundant.

35. Mustang Pond. — This pond is north of the road about two
miles, and was found in 1849, but emigrants and others have
not been able to find it since. For this reason, 1 would
advise travelers to fill their water-kegs at the Laguna
Colorado, as in a very dry season, they might not be able to
get any water until they reached the Sand Hills. The road
is excellent over the " Llano Estacado," or Staked Plain.

4£. Sand Hills.— Water in holes. The water is good here, and can
always be relied on as permanent. The road through the

188 FORT SMITH TO DONA ANA AND EL PASO.

Miles.

Sand Hills is very heavy ; and I would advise travelers with
loaded wagons to make half loads.

31£. Laguno near the Pecos River. — Road passes through the hills,
and descends the high prairie to the valley of the Pecos.
Laguna on the left.

15f. Crossing of Pecos. — Water deep and not fordable ; river forty-
two yards wide. A road leads up the eastern bank of the
Pecos to a ford with rock bottom. Good camps can be had
at almost any point on the Pecos. The water is brackish,
but can be used without harm.
54j. Pecos River. — Point of the river where the road turns off

toward Delaware Creek.

9£. Delaware Creek. — Good road after leaving the Pecos River.
The road on the Pecos is good in the bottom in very dry
weather, but after heavy rains it is submerged, and very
muddy. Travelers should then turn off to the bluffs. The
water in Delaware Creek is brackish,
llf. Ojo de San Martin. — Fine spring of fresh water, also mineral

spring. Good road up Delaware Creek.
15T3S Independence Spring. — Large spring of excellent water. Look

out for Indians.
5'^. Ojo del Gamins. — Good spring in the pine timber at the base

of the mountain.
4£. Peak of the Guadalupe. — Spring at the foot of the mountain.

Road descends the mountain, and is very steep.
23g> Ojo del Cuerbo. — Road descends through a very rough and
sinuous ravine, and crosses a long prairie to camp at a pond
of standing water. No wood.
26. Cornudas (Wells). — Well in the rocks ; plenty of water for

small parties. Road good.

8|. Sierra del Alamo. — Road good ; water limited in quantity.
There is a small spring upon the side of the mountain. No
wood except a few mesquite roots.

22-}. Waco Tanks. — Good water in a large reservoir in the rocks.
The road here branches, the left leading to El Paso and the
right to Dona Ana.

28. El Paso, on the Rio del Norte. — Road good, with some sand ;
no water upon it.

The distance from the "Waco Tanks " to Dona Ana is sixty-
three miles, but forty miles of the road is over heavy
sand, and no water until reaching the mountain, twenty-
five miles from Dona Ana. I would recommend travelers
to take the El Paso road in preference.

Total distance from Fort Smith to El Paso, 860 miles.

189

IY. — From St. Joseph, Missouri, to Great Salt Lake City.
EMIGRANTS1 ITINERARY,

Showing the distances between camping-places, the several mail-stations
where mules are changed, the hours of travel, the character of the
roads, and the facilities for obtaining water, wood, and grass on the
route along the southern bank of the Platte River, from St. Joseph Mo.
via Great Salt Lake City, to Carron Valley. From a Diary kept
by Richard F. Burton between the 7th August and the 19th October,
I860.

No. of
Mail.

,

Miles

Start.

Arrival.

Date.

1.

Leave St. Joseph, Missouri, in N. lat. 39° 40',

and W. long. 94° 50'. Cross Missouri River

by steam ferry. Five miles of bottom land,

bend in river and settlements. Over rolling

prairie 2000 feet above sea-level. After 6

miles, Troy, capital of Doniphan Co. Kansas

T. about a dozen shanties. Dine and ehange

nudes at Cold Spring — good water and

20—

A.M.

P.M.

grass.

24

9.30

3

Aug. 7

Road from Fort Leavenworth (N. lat.

39° 21' 14", and W. long. 94° 44') falls in at

Cold Spring, distant 1 5 miles.

From St. Joseph to Cold Spring there are

two routes, one Iving north of the other,

the former 20, the latter 24 miles in length.

2. After 10 miles, Valley HOM e, a white-washed

shanty. At Small Branch on Wolf River,

12 miles from Cold Spring, is a fiumara on

north of road, with water, wood, and grass.

Here the road from Fort Atchinson falls in.

P.M.

P.M.

Kennekuk station, 44 miles from St. Joseph.

22—

4

8

Aug. 7

Sup and ehange mules.

23

3.

Two miles beyond Kennekuk is the first of

the three Grasshopper Creeks, flowing after

rain to the Kansas River. Road rough and

stony, water, wood, and grass. Four miles

beyond the First Grasshopper is Whitchead,

a young settlement on Big Grasshopper,

water in pools, wood, and grass. Five and

a half miles beyond is Walnut Creek, in

Kikapoo Co. pass over Corduroy bridge,

roadside dotted with shanties. Thence to

P.M.

A.M.

Locknan's, or Big Muddy Station.

25

9

1

Aug. 7, 8

190 FROM ST. JOSEPH, MISSOURI, TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.

No. of
Mail.

Miles Start, j

Arrival.

Date.

4.

Seventeen miles beyond Walnut Creek, the

Third Grasshopper, also falling into the

Kansas River. Good camping-ground. Ten

miles beyond lies Richland, deserted site.

Thence to Seneca, capital of Nemehaw Co.

A few shanties on N. bank of Big Nemehaw

Creek, a tributary of the Missouri River,

A.M.

A.M.

which affords water, wood, and grass.

18

3

6

Aug. 8

5.

Cross Wildcat Creek and other nullahs. Seven

miles beyond Seneca lies Ashpoint, a few

wooden huts, thence to " Uncle John's Gro

cery," where liquor and stores are procur

able. Eleven miles from Big Nemehaw,

water, wood, and grass are found at certain

seasons near the head of a ravine. Thence

to Vermilion Creek, which heads to the N.E.

and enters the Big Blue 20 miles above its

mouth. The ford is miry after rain, and

the banks are thickly wooded. Water is

found in wells 40 — 43 ft. deep. Guittard's

A.M

XOON.

Station.

20

8

12

Aug. 8

6.

Fourteen miles from Guittard's, Marysville,

capital of Washington Co. affords supplies

and a blacksmith. Then ford the Big Blue,

tributary to Kansas River, clear and swift

stream. Twelve miles W. of Marysville is

frontier line between Kansas and Nebraska.

Thence to Cottonwood Creek, fields in hol

P.M.

P.M.

low near the stream.

25

1

6

Aug. 8

7.

Store at the crossing very dirty and disorderly.

good water in spriug 400 yards N. of the

road, wood and grass abundant. Seventeen

and a half miles from the Big Blue is Wal

nut Creek, where emigrants encamp. Thence

to West Turkey or Rock Creek in Nebraska

T. a branch of the Big Blue : its approxi

P.M.

P.M.

mate altitude is 1485 feet.

26

6

11

Aug. 8

8.

After nineteen miles of rough road and mos-

quitos, cross Little Sandy, five miles E. of

Big Sandy, water and trees plentiful. There

Big Sandy deep and heavy bed. Big Sandy

P.M.

A.M.

Station.

23

12

4

Aug. 9

9.

Cross hills forming divide of Little Blue River

ascending valley sixty miles long. Little

Blue fine stream of clear water falling into

Kansas River, everywhere good supplies and

good camping-ground. Along left bank to

A.M.

A.M.

Kiowa.

19

6

10

Aug. 9

10.

Rough roads of spurs and gullies runs up

FROM ST. JOSEPH, MISSOURI, TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY. 191

NTo.of
Mail.

Miles

Start.

Arrival.

Date.

valley 2 miles wide. Well wooded chiefly

with cotton wood and grass abundant. Ranch

A.M.

P.M.

at Liberty Farm on the Little Blue.

25

11

3

Aug. 9

11.

Cross divide between Little Blue and Platte

(

River, rough road, mosquitos troublesome.

Approximate altitude of dividing ridge 2025

feet. Station at Thirty-two Mile-Creek, a

small wooded and winding stream flowing

P,M.

P.M.

into the Little Blue.

24

4

9

Aug. 9

12.

After twenty-seven miles strike valley of the

Platte, along southern bank" of river, over

level ground, good for camping, fodder abun
dant. After seven miles Fort Kearny in N.

hit. 40° 38' 45", and W long. 98° 58' 11":

approximate altitude 2350 feet above the

sea level. Grocery, cloths, provisions, and

supplies of all kinds are to be procured from

the sutler's store. Beyond Kearny a rough

and bad road leads to " Seventeen- Mile-

P.M.

A.M.

Station."

34

10.30

8

Aug. 10

13.

Along south bank of Platte. Buffalo chips

used for fuel. Sign of Buffalo appears. Plum

Creek Station on a stream where there is a

A.M.

P.M.

bad crossing in wet weather.

2i

9.30

1.15

Aug. 10

14.

Beyond Plum Creek, Willow Island Ranch,

where supplies are procurable. Road along

Platte, wood scarce, grass plentiful, buffalo

abounds; after twenty miles "Cold Water

Ranch." Halt and change at Midway Sta

P.M.

P.M.

tion.

25

2.30

8

Aug. 10

15.

Along Valley of Platte, road muddy after

rain, fuel scarce, grass abundant, camp traces

everywhere. Ranch at Cottonwood Station,

P.M.

A.M.

at this season the western limit of buffalo.

27

9

1.45

Aug. 11

16.

Up Valley of Platte. No wood, buffalo chips

for fuel. Good camping-ground, grass on

small branch of Platte. To Junction House

Ranch and thence to station at Fremont

A.M.

A.M.

Springs.

30

6.15

11

Aug. 1 1

17.

Road passes O'Fallon's Bluffs. "Half-way

House" a store and ranch, distant 120

miles from Fort Kearny, 400 from St.

Joseph, forty from the lower crossing, and

sixty-eight from the upper crossing of the

South Fork (Platte River). The station is

NOON.

P.M.

called Alkali Lake.

25

'12

5

Aug. 1 1

18.

Road along river, no timber, grass, buffalo

chips, and mosquitos. Station at Diamond

P.M.

P.M.

Springs near Lower Crossing.

25

6

10 15

Aug. 1 1

192 FROM ST. JOSEPH, MISSOURI, TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.

No.of
Mail.

Miles

Start.

Arrival.

Date.

19.

Road along river. Last four miles very heavy

sand, avoided by Lower Crossing. Poor

accommodation at Upper Ford or Crossing

on the eastern bank, where the mail passes

the stream en route to Gt. S. L. City, and the

road branches to Denver City and Pike's

P.M.

A.M.

Peak.

25

11

3-15

Aug. 12

20.

Ford Platte 600 yards wide, 2'50 ft. deep, bed

gravelly and solid, easy ford in dry season.

Cross divide between North and South Forks

along bank of Lodge Pole Creek. Land arid,

AM .

P.M.

wild sage for fuel. Lodge Pole Station.

35

6.30

12-45

Aug. 1 1

21.

Up Lodge Pole Creek over spur of table-land,

then striking over the prairie finishes the

high divide between the Forks. Approximate

altitude 3600 feet. On the right is Ash-

Hollow, where there is plenty of wood and

a small spring. Station is mud springs, a

P.M.

P.M.

poor ranch.

25

3

5-45

Aug. 12

22.

Route lies over rolling divide between the

Forks, crossing Omoha, Lawrence, and

other creeks where water and grass are pro

curable. Cedar is still found in hill-gullies.

About half a mile north of Chimney Rock

A. M.

P. M.

is a ranch where the cattle are changed.

25

8

12-30

Aug. 13

23.

Road along south bank of North Fork of

Platte River. Wild sage only fuel in valley;

small spring on top of first hill. Rugged

labyrinth of paths abreast cf Scott's Bluffs,

which lie 5 miles S. of river in N. lat. 41°

48' 26", and W. long, 103° 45' 02". Water

found in first ravine of Scott's Bluffs 200

yards below the road, cedars on heights. To

P. M.

P. M.

Station.

24

1 -30

5-30

Aug. 13

24.

Road along river, crosses Little Kiowa Creek,

a tributary to Horse Creek, which flows into

the Platte. Ford Horse Creek, a clear

shallow stream with a sandy bottom. No

wood below the hills.

16

P. M

P. M.

25.

Route over sandy and heavy river bottom and

6-3

830

Aug. 13

rolling ground, leaving the Platte on the

right: cottonwood and willows on the banks.

Ranch at Laramie City kept by M. Badeau,

a Canadian, \\ ho sells spirits, Indian goods,

A. M.

P. M.

and outfit.

26

6

10-20

Aug. 14

26.

After 9 miles of rough road cross Laramie

Fork and enter Fort Laramie, N. lat. 420°

12' 38", and W. long, 104° 31' 26". Alt.

4519 feet. Military post with post-office,

FROM ST. JOSEPH, MISSOURI, TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY. 193

No. of
Mail.

Miles

Start.

Arrival,

Date.

sutler's stores, and other conveniences.

Thence to Ward's Station on the Central

P. M.

P. M.

Star, small ranch and store.

18

12-

4

Aug. 14

27.

Rough and bad road. After 14 miles, cross

—

Bitter Cotton wood Creek, water rarely flows

after rain 10 feet wide and 6 inches deep,

grass and fuel abundant. Pass Indian shop

and store. At Bitter Creek branch of

Cottonwood the road to Salt Lake City

forks. Emigrants follow Upper or South

road over spurs of Black Hills, some way

south of river to avoid kanyons and to find

grass. The station is called Horseshoe

Creek. Residence of road agent, Mr. Slade,

one of the worst places on the line.

25

P. M.

P. M.

28.

Road forks, one line follows Platte, the other

5

9-30

Aug. 14

turns to the left, over "cut off;' highly un

dulating ridges crooked and deeply dented

with dry beds of rivers; land desolate and

desert. No wood nor water till end of stage.

La Borne River and Station, unfinished

A. M.

A. M.

ranch in Valley, water and grass.

25

10-45

2'45

Aug. 15

29.

Road runs 6 miles (wheels often locked),

on rugged red land, crosses several dry beds

of creeks, and springs with water after

* melting of snow and frosts in dry season,

thence into Valley of Platte. After 17

miles, it crosses the La Prele (Rush River),

a stream 16 feet wide, where water and

J wood abound. At Hox-Elder Cnvk SM-

n , JHP good ranch and comfortable camping-

P.M.

P.M.

VU^^Band.

25

4

9

Aug. 15

'. Along the Platte River now slirunk to 100

^^•ds. After 10 miles, M. Bisonnette, at

B: Creek, a post office, blacksmith's shop,

1 and store near Indian Agency. Thence a

^fste of wild sage to Little muddy, a creek

with water. No accommodation nor pro-

A.M

NOON.

visiijp at station.

20

8-3.

12

Aug. 16

31.

After 8 miles cross vile bridge over Snow

Creek. Thence up river valley along S.

bank of Platte to lower ferry. To Lower

Bridge, old station of troops. To Upper

Bridge, where ferry has now been done

P.M.

P. M.

away with.

18

riff.

4-15

Aug. 16

32.

Road ascends hill 7 miles long, land rough.

barren, and sandy in dry season. After 10

miles, red spring near the Red Buttes, old

trading-place and post office. Road then

0

194 FROM ST. JOSEPH, MISSOURI, TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.

N"o.o
Mail

Miles

Start.

Arrival

Date.

leaves Platte River and strikes over high,

rolling, and barren prairie. After 18 miles

"Devil's Backbone." Station at Willow

Springs, wood, water, and grass, good place

for encampment, but no accommodation nor

provisions. On this stage mineral and

A. M.

P.M.

33.

alkaline waters dangerous to cattle abound.
After 3 miles, Green Creek, not to be depen

28

6'30

1250

Aug. 17

ded upon, and Prospect Hill, a good look

out. Then, at intervals of 3 miles, Harper's,

Woodwork's, and Greasewood Creeks, fol

lowed by heavy sand. At 17 miles " Saler-

atus Lake" on west of road. Four miles

beyond is "Independence Rock," Ford

Sweetwater, leaving " Devil's Gate " on

right. Pass blacksmith's shop. Sage only

fuel. Plante or Muddy Station, family of

P.M.

P.M.

Canadians, no conveniences.

33

2'30

9-15

Auo- 17

34.

Along winding banks of Sweetwater. After

•^*-"S * '

4 miles, " Alkali Lake," S. of road. Land

dry and stony, stunted cedars in hills. After

1-2 miles, 'J Devil's Post-Office," singular bluff

on left of road, and opposite ranch kept bv

Canadian. Mail Station " Three Crossings,"

at Ford No. 3, excellent water, wood, grass,

A.M.

A,M.

game, and wild currants.

25

7

11

Aug. 18

35.

Up kanyon of Sweetwater. Ford river 5

times, making total of 8. After 16 miles,

" Ice Springs," in swampy valley, and one

quarter of a mile beyond " Warm Springs."

Then rough descent and waterless stretch.

Descend by "Lander's cut-off" into fertile

bottom. " Rocky Ridge Station," at Musk-

rat Creek good cold spring, grass, and sage

A.M.

P.M.

fuel.

35

5'45

12-45

Aug. 19

36.

Up bed of creek, and ascending long hills leave
Sweetwater. After 4 miles, 3 alkaline ponds

S. of road. Rough path. After 7 miles,

|' Strawberry Creek," 6ft. Avide, good camp

ing ground, willows and poplars. One mile

beyond is Quaking Asp Creek, often dry.

Three miles- beyond lies M'Achran's branch,

33 x 2. Then " Willow Creek," 10 X 2,

good camping-ground. At Ford No. 9, Ca

nadian ranch and store. Long table-land

leads to " South Pass," dividing trip between
Atlantic and Pacific, and thence 2 miles to

station at "Pacific Springs," water, toler

A.M.

P.M.

able grass, sage fuel, and mos^uitos.

35

7-45

3

Aug. 20

i

FROM ST. JOSEPH, MISSOURI, TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY. 195

No.of
Mail

Miles

Start.

Arrival.

Date.

37.

Cross Miry Creek. Road down Pacific Creek,

water scarce for 20 miles. After 11 miles,

" Dry Sandy Creek," water scarce and too

brackish to drink, grass little, sage and

greasewood plentiful. After 16 miles, •' Sub-

leit's cut-off," or the "Dry Drive," turns N.

westward to Soda Springs and Fort Hall:

the left fork leads to Fort Bridger and Gt.

St. L. City. Four miles beyond junction

is " Little Sandy Creek," 20 — 25 X 2, grass,

timber, and good camping-ground. F'ght

miles beyond is "Big Sandy Creek," clear,

swift, and with good crossing 110 X 2.

Southern route best, along old road, no

A.M.

P.M.

water for 49 miles. Big Sandy Creek Station.

33

8

12-50

Aug. 21

38.

Desolate road cuts off bend of river, no grass

nor water. After 12 miles " Simpson's Hol

low." Fall into Valley of Green River

half a mile wide, water 110 yards broad.

After 20,i miles, Upper Ford, Lower Ford 7

miles below Upper. Good camping-ground

on bottom ; at station in Green River gro

cery, stores, and ferry-boat when there is

P.M.

P.M.

high water.

32

1-45

6'30

Aug. 21

39.

Diagonal ford over Green River, good camp

ing-ground in bottom. Follow valley for

4 miles, grass, and fuel. Michel Martin's

store and grocery. Road leaves river and

crosses waterless, divide to Black's Fork 100

X 2, grass and fuel. Wretched station at

A.M.

NOON.

Ham's Fork.

24

8

12

Aug. 22

Ford Ham's Fork. After 12 miles road forks

O

at the 2nd striking of Ham's Fork, both

branches leading to Fort Bridger. Mail

takes left-hand path. Then Black's fork 20

X 2, clear and pretty valley, with grass and

fuel, cottonwood, and yellow currants. Cross

stream 3 times. After 12 miles, "Church

Butte." Ford Smith's Fork 30ft. wide, and

shallow, tributary of Black's Fork. Station

at Millersville on Smith's Fork, large store,

P.M.

P.M.

and good accommodation.

20

2

5-15

Aug22.

41.

Road runs up valley of Black's Fork. After 1 2

miles, Fort Bridger in N. lat. 4 1° 18' 12", and

W. long. 1 10° 32' 23", on Black's Fork of

Green River. Commands Indian trade, fuel,

corn, little grass. Post-office, sutler's store,

grocery, and other conveniences. Thence

rough and rolling ground to Muddy Creek

196 FROM ST. JOSEPH, MISSOURI, TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY.

No. o
Mail.

Miles. Start. Arrival.

Date.

Hill, steep and stony descent. Over fertile

bottom to Big Muddy and Little Muddy

Creek, which empties into Black's Fork

below Fort Bridger. At Creek Station is

a Canadian, provisions, excellent milk, no

A.M.

P.M.

stores.

25

8.30

12-15

Ail"1. 23

42.

Rough country. Road winds along ridge to

O* —

Quaking Asp Hill 7,900 (8,400?) feet above

sea-level. Steep descent, rough and broken

ground. After eighteen miles, Sulphur Creek

Valley, stagnant stream, flowing after rain,

ford bad and muddy. Station in fertile

valley of Bear River, which turns northAvard

and flows into E. side of Lake, wood, grass,

and water. Poor accommodations at Bear

NOON.

P.M.

River Station.

20

12

5-30

Aug. 23

43.

Road runs by Needle Rocks, falls into Valley

of Egan's Creek. "Cache Cave "on right

hand. Three Miles below Cave is Red Fork

in Echo Kanyon, unfinished station at

entrance. Rough road, steep ascents and

descents along Red Creek Station, on Weber

River, which falls into Salt Lake south of

A.M.

P.M.

Bear River.

36

8-15

2'30

Aug. 24

44.

Road runs down Valley of Weber. Ford river.
After 5£ miles is a salt spring where the road

leaves the river, to avoid a deep kanyon, and

turns left into a valley with rough paths,

trying to wheels; then crosses mountain,

and ascending long hill descends to Bau-

chemin's Creek, tributary to Weber River.

Creek eighteen feet wide, swift, pebbly bed,

good ford, grass and fuel abundant. Station

called Carson's House; accommodations of

P.M.

P.M.

the worst.

22

4'30

7.4.5

Anf 94

45.

Ford Bauchemin's Creek thirteen times in

rVUg. ^4

eight miles. After two miles along a small

watercourse ascend Big Mountain, whence

first vieV of Great Salt Lake City, twelve

miles distant. After fourteen miles Big

Kanyon Creek. Six miles further, road

leaves Big Kanyon Creek, and after steep

ascent and descent makes Emigration Creek.

Cross Little Mountain, two miles beyond

Big Mountain, road rough and dangerous.
Five Miles from Emigration Kanyon to Great

Salt Lake City. Road through " Big Field "

A.M.

P.M.

six miles square.

29

7 7-15 'Aug. 28

SALT LAKE TO SACRAMENTO AND BENICIA. 197

GREAT SALT LAKE CITY N. lat. 40° 46' 08"

W. long. 112° 06' 08" (g.)
Altitude 4300 feet.

The variation of compass at Temple Block in 1849 was 15° 47' 23", and
in I860 it was 15° 64', a slow progress towards the east. (In the Wind River
Mountains, as laid down by Col. Fremont in 1842 was E. 18°.) In Fill-
more Valley it is now 18° 15', and three years ago was about 17° east, the
rapid progression to the east is accompanied with extreme irregularity,
which the people attribute to the metallic constituents of the soil.

Total of days between St. Jo. and Great Salt Lake City . 19

Total Stages 45

Distance in statute miles 1136

From Fort Lea vcn worth to Great Salt Lake City . . 1168

Y. — From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia,
California.

Miles.

From Salt Lake City to —
18. Halt's Ranch, — Good road, and grass abundant until Bear

River is crossed.
17^. Ford on Weber River. — Good road, and grass abundant.

lo. Point of Mountain. — Spring water warm hut pure.
12J. Box Elder Creek. — Excellent water; grass and fuel abundant

in the canons.
23. Ferry on Bear River. — Four miles above the usual crossing.

Excellent grass.

f . West Bank. — Grass not good on the west bank.
6. Small Spring. — Cross Bear River below the mouth of the

Mallade.

17£. Blue Springs. — Water and grass scarce, and of poor quality.
21 J. Deep Creek — Heavy sage, but good grass on the right of the

road, near sink.
20J. Cedar Springs.— Good grass on the hills, with fine water and

wood ; rolling country.
10. Rock Creek.— Plenty of grass to the left of the* road ; good

camping-place.

14 J. Raft River. — Good camp.

22£. Goose Creek Mountains. — Grass, wood, and water abundant ;
rough a'nd mountainous country. Road from Fort Bridger
comes in here via Soda Springs.
17J. On Goose Creek. — Rough, broken country, with a good road,

which runs along the creek for several miles.
28 j. Head of 1000 Spring Valley. — Road runs over a rolling, barren

198 SALT LAKE TO SACRAMENTO AND BENICIA.

Miles.

section, with but little water except on the river far to the right.
25f . 1000 Spring Valley. — Meadow grass ; good fuel scarce. Canips

can be found at short intervals along the road.
14. Head of Humboldt River. — Fine camping-places, and road

generally good, running over a rolling country.
23. Slough of the Humboldt. — Extensive bottoms of good grass.
20. Humboldt River. — Along the entire course of the Humboldt
good grass is found in the bottoms. The road, which follows
the bottom, is hard and smooth, but cannot be traveled in
seasons of very high water, as the bottom overflows. It is
then necessary to take the road on the bluffs, where the
grass is scarce. The river, when not above a fording stage,
can be forded at almost any point, and good camps can be
found at short intervals. There are spots along the river
bottom where alkaline ponds are frequent. These are poison
ous to cattle, and should be avoided by travelers. It is well
along this river not to allow animals to drink any water
except from the river where it is running.
20. Humboldt River. — The foregoing remarks apply for every camp

on the Humboldt River.

22. Humboldt River. — Good camps along the Humboldt Valley.
•23. Humboldt River.
13J.
16*
25.
13f.
24.

18*.

13*.

18 J. Lawson's Meadows. — The road here forks, the left going by the
Carson Valley and Sacramento route, and the right via Goose,
Cleer, and Rhett lakes, Applegat's Pass of the Cascade Moun
tains, into Rogue River Valley, Fort Law, Oregon Territory,
Yreka, Fort Jones, Fort Reading, and Sacramento River.

33£. On Humboldt River. — Grass and water poor all the distance to
the Sink of the Humboldt.

19£. Sink of Humboldt River. — The water at the Sink is strongly
impregnated with alkali ; the road generally is good.
Travelers should not allow their stock to drink too freely of
this water.

26. Head Sink of Humboldt.— Road good.

45. Carson River. — Road crosses the desert, where there is no water
for stock, but there is a well where travelers can purchase
water for drinking. This part of the road should be traveled
in the cool of the day and at night. Grass good, also the
water.

SALT LAKE TO SACRAMENTO AND BENICIA. 199

Miles.

2. Carson River. — Good bunch-grass near the road.
30. Carson River. — 26 miles of desert ; poor grass.

14. Eagle Ranch. — Good grass and water.
13. Reese's Ranch. — Good grass and water.

12. Williams' Ranch. — Very good water and grass.

15. Hope Valley. — Road rough and rocky.

3. Near Sierra. — Good camp, with water and grass.

7. First Summit.— Road rough and rocky ; good water ; grass

scarce.
2. Second Summit. — Road mountainous and very steep; snow

nearly all the year.
10. Lakes. — Good carnp.
12. Leek Springs.— Good grass near the road.
10. Traders Creek. — Grass and fuel scarce.
12. Sly Park.— Grass and fuel near the road.

Forty Mile House. — Water plenty; grass scarce.
Sacramento Valley. — Water plenty ; purchase forage.
Sacramento City. — Water plenty ; purchase forage.

Total distance from Salt Lake City to Benicia, 973 miles.

At the Big Meadows, 23 miles from the Sink of the Humboldt,
travelers should make a halt of a day or two to rest and recruit
their animals, and to cut grass for crossing the desert, as this is the
last good camping-place until reaching Carson River. The ground
near this place is boggy, and animals should be watered with buckets.
The camping-ground here is on the right bank of the river, and
about half a mile to the left of the main road. The water is in a
slough, near its head, where will be found some springs which run
off a short distance, but soon sink.

The road across the desert is very sandy, especially toward the
western extremity. Twenty miles from the Sink of the Humboldt
there are four wells. About half a mile east of the mail station, the
road leading to the wells turns to the right, where water can be
purchased for from one to two shillings for each man and beast.

At 9^ miles beyond the mail station, on the desert, a road turns
off from the main trace toward a very high sandy ridge, and directly
upon the top of this ridge is the crater of an extinct volcano, at
the bottom of which is a salt lake. Upon the extreme north end of
this lake will be found a large spring of fresh water, sufficient for
1000 animals. From thence to " Ragtown," on Carson River, is
three miles.

I would advise travelers, when their animals become exhausted
before reaching this water, to take them out of harness and drive
them to this place to recruit. There is some grass around the lake,
his desert has always been the most difficult part of the journey

200 GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO LOS ANGELOS.

to California, and more animals have probably been lost here than
at any other place. The parts of wagons that are continually met
with here shows this most incontestabl.

VI. — From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angelas and San
Francisco, California.

Miles.

Salt Lake City to—
23f . Willow Creek.— Good Grass.

14. American Creek.— Good Grass.
11|. Provo City.— Town.
?{. Hobble Creek.— Good camp.
6. Spanish Fork.— Good camp.
5. Peteetneet. — Good camp.

25. Salt Creek. — Several small streams between. Good camp.
18|. Toola Creek. — Ford. No wood; grass good.
G|. Sevier River — Road is sandy, passing over a high ridge. Good

camp.
25 £. Cedar Creek. — Road rather mountainous and sandy. Good

grass and wood.
17£. Creek. — This is the fourth stream south of Sevier River. Road

crosses two streams. Good camp.

3f . Willow Flats. — The water sinks a little east of the road.
25. Spring. — Good grass and water.
22. Sage Creek. — Grass poor ; wood and water.
Beaver Creek. — Good wood, water, and grass.
North Canon Creek. — In Little Salt Lake Valley. Good grass;

no wood. The road is rough and steep for six miles.
Creek. — Good wood, water, and grass.
Creek. — Good wood, water, and grass.
Cottonwood Creek. — Good grass and water.
9. Cedar Springs. — Good camp.

23. Pynte Creek. — Good grass one mile up the canon.
9. Road Springs. — Road is rough ; good camp.
16. Santa Clara. — Road descending and rough ; poor grass. From

this point to Cahoon Pass look out for Indians.
17£. Camp Springs. — Two miles before reaching the springs the

road leaves the Santa Clara. Good grass.
22 £. Rio Virgin. — Road crosses over the summit of a mountain.

Good road ; grass poor.
39f . Rio Virgin.— Road runs down the Rio Virgin, crossing it ten

times. Grass good down the river.

19f. Muddy Creek. — Road for half a mile is very steep and sandy.
Good camp.

GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO LOS ANGELOS. 201

Miles.

52^. Las Vagas. — Water is sometimes found 2^ miles west of the
road in holes 23 miles from the Muddy, and some grass about
a mile from the road. Good camp.

5. On Vagas. — Road runs up the river. Good grass.
17. Cotton wood Spring. — Poor grass.

29|. Cotton wood Grove. — No grass. Water and grass can be found
four miles west by following the old Spanish trail to a ravine,
and thence to the left in the ravine one mile.
21-f . Resting Springs. — Good grass and water. Animals should be

rested here before entering the desert.

7. Spring. — The spring is on the left of the road, and flows into
Saleratus Creek. Animals must not be allowed to drink the
Saleratus water.

14£. Salt Springs. — Poor grass and no fresh water.
38f . Bitter Springs. — Good road ; poor grass.
30f. Mohave River. — Good road and good grass.
51 £. On the Mohave. — Last ford. Good grass all the way up the

Mohave.

17. Cahoon Pass. — At the summit.
10. Camp. — Road bad down the canon.
1 1 £. Coco Mongo Ranch.

10 Del Chino Ranch.— Williams
19f . San Gabriel River.

6. San Gabriel Mission.
8$. Puebla de los Angelos.

65|. Santa Clara River. — On the Coast Route. Good camps to San

Jos6\
7£. Buena Ventura Mission and River. — Road here strikes the

Pacific shore.

26. Santa Barbara. — Town.
45|. San Yenness River. — At the Mission.
78^. Santa Margareta. — Old Mission.
28|. San Miguel.— Old Mission.
24|. San Antonio River.
26J. Rio del Monterey.

15f. Solida Mission. — At the ford of Rio del Monterey.
37£. San Juan Mission.
33. San Jose Pueblo.
75. San Francisco.

GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO SAN FRAXCISCO.

YII. — From Great Salt Lake City to San Francisco.

^o.of
Mail.

Miles

Start.

Arrival.

Date.

1.

3,oad through south of City, due south along

and

right bank of Jordan. Crosses many creeks,

2.

viz., Kanyon Creek, 4£ miles, Mill Creek, 2^

First or Great Cottonwood Creek, 2. Second

ditto, 4. Fork of road, l£. Dry Creek,

Si Willow Creek, 2f .

'

After 22 — -23 miles, hot and cold springs,

and halfway house, the brewery under Point

of the Mountain. Road across Ash Hollow

or Jordan Kanyon, 2 miles. Fords river,

knee deep, ascends a rough divide between

Utah Valley and Cedar Valley 10 miles

from camp, and finally reaches Cedar Creek

and Camp Floyd.

44

10-30 9-30

Sept. 20

3.

Leaves Camp Floyd, 7 miles to divide of Ce

dar Valley. Crosses divide into Rush

Valley, after total of 18 '2 miles reaches

Meadow Creek, good grass and water. Rush

Valley Mail Station 1 mile beyond, food

and accommodation.

20

10-30

9-30

Sept. 27

4.

Crosses remains of Rush Valley 7 miles. Up

rough divide called Genl. Johnston's Pass.

Spring often dry, 200 yards on right of road.

At Point Look-Out leaves Simpson's Road,

which runs south. Cross Skull Valley, bad

road. To bench on eastern flank of desert.

Station called Egan's Springs, Simpson's

Springs, or Lost Springs, grass plentiful,

A. M.

water good.

27

9-30

4-30

Sept. 28

5.

New station, road forks to S.-E. and leads

after 5 miles to grass and water. After 8

miles River Bottom, 1 mile broad. Long

line over desert to Express Station, called

P. M.

Dugway, no grass, and no water.

20

12

5-30

Sept. 29

6.

Steep road 2£ miles to summit of Dugway

Pass. Descend by rough incline, 8 miles

beyond road forks to Devil's Hole, 90 miles

from Camp Floyd on Simpson's route, and

6 miles S. of Fish Springs. Eight miles

beyond Fork is Mountain Point, road winds

S. and W. and then N. to avoid swamp,

and crosses three sloughs. Beyond last is

Fish Spring Station on bench, poor place,

GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO SAN FRANCISCO.

203

No.of
Mail.

Miles

Start.

Arrival.

Date.

water plentiful but bad. Cattle here drink

for first time after Lost Springs, distant 48

P. M.

A.M.

miles.

28

6-30

3'30

Sept. 29

y

Road passes many pools, Halfway forks S. to

Pleasant Valley (Simpson's line). Road

again rounds swamp, crossing S. end of Salt

Plain. After 21 miles, "Willow Creek,"

water rather brackish. Station " Willow

Springs " on bench below hills at W. end of

A. M.

Desert, grass and hay plentiful.

22

10

3-30

Sept. 30

8.

Road ascending bench turns N. to find Pass.

After 6 miles Mountain Springs, good water,

grass, and fuel. Six miles beyond is Deep

Creek Kanyon, dangerous ravine 9 miles

long. Then descends into fertile and well

watered valley, and after 7 miles enters Deep

A.M.

P. M.

Creek Mail Station. Indian farm.

28

8

4

Oct. 1

9.

Along W. Creek. After 8 miles, "Eight

Miles Springs," water, grass, and sage fuel.

Kanyon after 2-£ miles, 500 yards long and

easy. Then 19 miles through Antelope

Valley to station of same name, burnt in

June 1860 by Indians. Simpson's route

from Pleasant Valley, distant 12'5 miles,

falls into E. end of Antelope Valley, from

A. M.

P. M.

Camp Floyd 151 miles.

30

8

4

Oct. 3, 4

10.

Road over valley for 2 miles to mouth of Shell

Creek Kanyon, 6 miles long. Rough road,

fuel plentiful. Descends into Spring Valley,

and then passes over other divides into

Shell Creek, where there is a mail station;

A. M.

P. M.

water, grass, and fuel abundant.

18

6

11

Oct. 5

11.

Descends rough road. Crosses Steptoe

Valley and bridged creek. Road heavy,

sand or mud. After 16 miles Egan's Kan

yon, dangerous for Indians. Station at W.

P. M.

P. M.

mouth, burned by Indians in Oct. 1860.

18

2

6

Oct. 5

12.

Pass divide, fall into Butte Valley, and cross

its N. end. Bottom very cold. Mail Sta

tion half way up hill, very small spring,

P. M.

A. M.

grass on N. side of hill. Butte Station.

18

8

3

Oct. 6

13.

Ascend long divide. 2 steep hills and falls.

Cross N. end of Long Valley, all barren.

Ascend divide and descend into Ruby Val

ley, road excellent, water, grass, and bot

A. M.

P. M.

tom, fuel distant. Good Mail Station.

22

8

1-45

Oct. 7

14.

Long divide, fuel plenty, no grass or water.

After 10 miles road branches, right hand to

Gravelly Ford of Humboldt River. Cross

204

GHEAT SALT LAKE CITY TO SAX FRANCISCO.

No.of
Mails

Miles Start. Arrival.

Date.

dry bottom. Cross Smith's Fork of Hum-

boldt Kiver in Huntingdon Valley, little

stream, bunch-grass and sage fuel on W.

end. Ascend Chokop's Pass, Dugway and

hard hill, descend into Moonshine Valley.

Station at Diamond Springs; warm water

A. M.

P. M.

but ^rood.

23

8

1-45

Oct. 8 9

15.

Cross Moonshine Valley. After 7 miles, sul

phurous spring and grass. Twelve miles

beyond, ascend divide, no water, fuel and

bunch -grass plentiful. Then long divide.

After 9 miles, station on Robert's Creek at

E. end of Sheawit, or Roberts' Springs

A. M.

P. M.

Valley.

28

8

1'45

Oct. 10

16.

Down Valley to west, good road, sage small,

no fuel After 12 miles, willows and water-

holes, S miles beyond are alkaline wells.

Station on bench, water below in dry creek,

A. M.

P. M.

grass must be brought from 15 miles.

35

6'30

12-30

Oct. 11

17.

Cross long rough divide to Smoky Valley.

At northern end creek called " Wana-

honop," or " Netwood," i. e. trap. Thence

long rough kanyon to Simpson's Park,

grass plentiful, water in wells 10 feet deep.

Simpson's Park in Shoshone country, and,

according to Simpson's Itinerary, 348 miles
from Camp Floyd.

25

A. M.

8-15

P. M.

2-25

Oct. 12

18.

Cross Simpson's Park. Ascend Simpson's

Pass, a long kanyon, with sweet, " Sage

Springs," on summit, bunch-grass plentiful.

Descend to fork of road, right-hand to

lower, left-hand to upper, ford of Reese's

River. Water perennial and good, food

A.M.

P. M

poor.

15

10

2

Oct. 13

19.

Through remainder of Reese's River Valley.

After long divide Valley of Smith's Creek,

sale rat us, no water nor grass. At last, sta

tion near kanyon, and hidden from view.

A. M.

P. M.

Land belongs to Pa Yutas.

28

7-20

2-45

Oct. 14

20.

Ascend rough kanyon, and descend to barren

and saleratus plain. Towards south of

valley over bench-land, rough with rock

and pitch-hole. " Cold Springs Station "

A.M.

P.M.

half built, near stream, fuel scarce.

25

8-15

4-15

Oct. 15

21.

At west gate two miles from station, good

grass. After eight miles, water. Two miles

beyond is middle gate, water in fiumara,

and grass near. Beyond gate two basins,

CAMP FLOYD TO GENOA, CARSON VALLEY.

205

Xo.of
Mail.

Miles

Start.

Arrival.

Date.

long divides, winding road, to "Sand

A.M.

r.M.

Springs Valley," bad water, little grass.

35

9-50

2-30

Oct. 16

22.

Cross valley, ten miles to summit, over slongh

inundations, and bad road. Summit shifting

sand. Descend five miles to Carson Lake,

water tolerable, ttilc abundant. Round S.

side of lake to t-ink of Carson River Station,

A.M.

P.M.

no provisions, pasture good, fuel scarce.

25

11

9

Oct. 17

23.

Cross long plain. Ascend very steep divide,

and sight Sierra filty miles distant. De

scend to Carson River. Fort Churchill

A.M.

P.M.

newly built. Sutler's stores, &c.

25

9-30

7-15

Oct. 18

A.M.

P.M.

24.

Carson City.

35

11

10-30

Oct. 19

Carson City lies on the eastern foot of the

Sierra Nevada, distant 552 statute miles,

according to Captain Simpson, from Camp

Floyd. The present itinerary reduces it to

544*, and, adding 44 miles, to a total of 588

from Gt. S. L. City.

VIII. — Capt. J. H. SIMPSON'S Wagon Road from Camp Floyd to Genoa,
Carson Valley, U. T. Explored by direction of General A. G. JOHN
STON, commanding the Department of Utah between the 2nd May,
and 12th June, 1859.

lg

T3 0 to

5 A.

ii»

.

Places

S-H-2

^^2.

1

.2

a

|r

JS3

ns

&6

£

O

Camp Floyd, wood and grass in }

w

vicinity S

18-2

18'2

18-2

1

Cross Meadow Creek (Rush Valley), |

1

mail station £ mile j

Spring $ mile to right of Gen. John-N

ston's Pass, just after passing sum

mit. This spring furnishes but I
little water, even in the spring, and /

8-9

9'9

28'1

2

W

w

G

in the slimmer would be most pro- j

bably dry . . . . '

206

CAMP FLOYD TO GENOA, CARSOX VALLEY.

.£

o .

st

Places.

Intermed
Distanc
Miles,

&S.2

gas

If

%3

I

1

i

o

Simpson's Springs, Mail Station .

16-2

16-2

44-3

3

W

W

G

Summit, Short-cut Pass

21-6

Wil

1'6 miles below summit . ,

T6

23-2

67-5

4

low
Sage

{

very
little

Tolerable grass skirting low range of (

7.0

I

grs.

rocks on right of road . . J

/ o

G

A little grass, sage in valley

4-8

s

G

Devil's Hole, water slightly brackish .

67

W

Fish Springs, mail station .

5-4

247

92-2

5

Ctw

W

"G

Warm Springs

3'4

GW

W

G

Grass in considerable quantity of)
good character J

26-4

297

12-19

6

G

Alkaline spring to right of road, wa- )

1

ter not drinkable j

I

Sulphur springs, water abundant and )
palatable \

1-5

2-5

125-

7

W.S

W

G

Spring, Pleasant Valley, mail station .

13-4

13-4

138-4

8

W

W

G

East side Antelope Valley .

12-5

150-9

9

W

W

G

Spring Valley, good grass on west )
bench and slopes £

19-

169-9

10

GW

W

G

Cross Marsh, road takes up a fine }

o.c

stream, grass all along . . $

O 0

Leave Creek

3-5

W

W

G

Spring, copious, grass fine .

2-8

W

W

G

East side, Steptoe Valley, mail station

1-3

11-1

181-0

11

W

W

G

Step toe Creek ; dry in summer .

6-5

Mouth Egan Canon .

6'8

13-3

194-3

12

W

W

[G

Spring, source of Egan Creek

1-8

W

W

G

West side of Butte Valley. Mail sta-\

tion. A very small spring, barely /

sufficient for cooking purposes, near >

16-2

18-1

212-4

13

W

W

G

top of hill; grass- on N. side ofl

same hill J

Spring 1 mile west side of summit )
of range j

12-

12-

224-4

14

W

W

G

Ruby Valley, mail station .
Smith's Fork, Humboldt R. Hunting- |

9'2

1 4-*4

9-2

233-6

15

GW

W

G

don's Creek /

IT- rt

Small mountain stream

3-3

17-6

251-2

16

GW

W

G

Spring left of road ....
Near west foot of Cho-kupe Pass

1-2

5'8

7-1

258-3

17

GW
GW

W
W

G
G

Spring in Pah-hun-nupe Valley .

7'8

Do. west side of Pah-hun-nupe Valley .

5-6

13-3

271'6

18

S,W

trW

W

G

She-a-wi-te (Willow) Creek

14-9

14-9

286-5

19

s.vv

W

G

CAMP FLOYD TO GENOA, CARSON VALLEY.

H •!•

g?

Places.

— o> .

Ill

a|jj

£-2"«

•8 A

1

1

i

JJ5*

|35

if

ll

*

u

o

Bed of Nash R. water in pools, pro- )

11*6

bably not constant j

Small spring, grass on mountain side, [
2 miles off j

5-9

17-5

304'

20

S.W

w

G

Wons-in-dam-me, or Antelope Creek ,

7-

7-

311-

21

w

w

G

Creek

4-3

s.w

w

G

Creek west side of Valley .

9-5

13-7

324-7

22

s.w

w

G

Wan-a-ho-mo-pe (Netwood trap) Creek

13-6

Do. do. do.

4-6

18-2

342-9

23

s.w

w

G

Simpson's Park, according totopogra- "^

phers, Lt. Putnam and guide, Col. >

4-9

4-9

347-8

24

s.w

w

G

Reese J

Small spring in Simpson's Pass (same I

3*

authority) .... 5

Ford of Reese's River ....

8-2

w

G

Reese's River

2-6

13-8

361-6

25

w

G

Leave Reese's River ....

3-4

w

G

Small spring to left of road just before J

10-

reaching summit of Pass . . $

Lt. J. L. Kirby Smith's Creek .

7-8

21-2

382-8

26

GW

w

G

Englcmanns „

16

w

Lt. Putnam's „

8-6

10-2

393-

27

S.W

w

G

Do. South Fork

2-7

w

w

G

Rock Creek

3-

w

w

G

Do

3-1

8-7

401-7

28

w

w

G

Do. Sinks

l"7

Spring-water kegsshould be filled for ^
2 days. Camp from this in alkaline >

5-4

w

flat )

Gibraltar Gate

0-6

w

Creek joins Gibraltar Creek

4-2

Middle Gate Spring ....

3-2

14-7

416-4

29

s.w

w

G

West Gate

3'5

Dry wells, alkaline valley, very poor 1

camp, water and grass alkalineY
and little of either. Rabbit bush f

21-0

24-5

440'9

30

Rab.
bush

w

G

fuel )

Creek connecting the two lakes of\

Carson. Road can be shortened

some eight or ten miles by striking
across head of Alkaline Valley after
getting about nine miles from camp

16-6

457-5

31

Dry

rusli

w

R,G

30, and then proceeding directly to

shore of Carson Lake. It is not

necessary to go so far north as the

connecting creek referred to . . /

208

FORT BRIDGER TO THE CITY OF ROCKS.

.2

s^

Places.

° § S

III

fjl ill

3! I

li

$

$

1 1
o

•go

*6

Leave Carson Lake ....

9-7

W R.G

Walker's River

21-5

31-2

488-7

32

W

W

G

Do. do

10-

498-7

33

W

W

G

Do. North bend .

6-3

505'

34

W

W

G

Small spring, not sufficient for large )
command, grass half mile south )

14-1

s.w

W

G

Carson River

1-9

Do. do

3-0

19-0

524'

35

W

W

G

Pleasant Grove, cross Carson River ^

and get into Old Emigrant Road. >

9-0

9-0

533"

36

W

W

G

Mail Station }

China town. Gold diggings

7-4

W

Carson city. E. foot of Sierra Nevada

11-6

19-0

552'

37

W

G

Genoa do. do. do. .

12-9

12-9

564-9

38 W

W

G

To Brevet-Major F. J. Porter,
Assist.- Adj.-Genl.
Dept. Utah, Camp Floyd.

(Signed) J. H. Simpson,

Capt. Top Engineers.

IX. — From Fort Bridger to the " City of Rocks."
From Captain HANDCOCK'S Journal.

Miles.

Fort Bridger to —

9. Little Muddy Creek. — Water brackish in pools along the creek ;
tall bunch grass ; sage for fuel. Road runs over a barren
section, is rough, and passes one steep hill.

12^. Big Muddy Creek. — The road, with the exception of two or
three bad gullies, is good for ten miles ; it then follows the
Big Muddy Bottom, which is flat and boggy. The camp is
three miles above the crossing. Some grass ; sage for
fuel.

14|. Small Branch of the Muddy Creek.— Cross the River in three
miles at a bad ford. A mile above camp the grass is good.
Road generally good.

19$. On Small Creek.— Road continues up the Muddy 9-J- miles to
its head. It then ascends to the divide between Bear and

FORT BRIDGER TO THE CITY OF ROCKS. 209

Miles.

Green Rivers, probably 800 feet in If miles. The descent on
the other side is about the sarne. The road passes many
fine springs. At one and two miles back it passes points of
hi] Is, where it is very rough. Good grass and sage at
camp.

8T90. Bear Kiver.— Bad Creek to cross near the camp; thence to
Bear Eiver Valley the road is good. It then follows down
the River, crossing Willow Creek. Good camp, with a large
fine spring.

17. Bear River. — Good road along the river; plenty of wood,

water, aud grass at all points.

Foot of Grant's Mountain. — Road runs along Bear River ; at
2£ miles strikes Smith's Fork, a rapid trout stream. The
road crosses the lower ford. A few miles farther on is a
bad slough, which can be avoided by taking a round on
the hills. Cross Thomas's Fork on a bridge, also a slough
near it; toll $2-00 for each team and wagon. The road
then leaves Bear River Valley, and turns over a very steep
hill. Good grass, wood, and water.

12. Bear River. — Road ascends Grant's Mountain 1,200 feet in 1£
miles (double teams), then descends again into Bear River
Valley at 4| miles. Good wood, water, and grass.
17|. Indian Creek. — Road crosses eight fine spring branches; camp
is on a beautiful trout stream. Good wood, water, and
grass.

11. Spring near Bear River. — Road is hilly, crossing two spring
branches. Good wood, water, and grass. The camp is on
the left, and near the road.

11. Bear River. — At 6^ miles the road strikes a large group of
springs, called " Soda Springs," and here crosses Pine Creek,
on the left bank of which is a saleratus lake. Soon after,
it strikes the main springs, and, after crossing another creek,
the "Steamboat spring, may be seen in the bed of the
river.

15. "PortNeuf," or Rock Creek.— At 2-^ miles the road leaves
Bear River near where it runs through a canon with high
bluffs on each side. At this point, the California and Fort
Hall roads separate. The California road (called Hudspeth's
Cut-oft') then crosses a valley between the Bear River and
Port Neuf River Mountains, 9 miles. No water from camp
to camp. Good camp.

15. Marsh Creek. — About two miles above the main road, the creek
can be forded ; a road leads to it from the descent into the
valley. Road good ; water and grass plenty ; no wood.
161. Paunack Creek.— First part of the road is hilly ; the remainder
.good. Good camp.

7^. Mallade River.— At 7| miles the road crosses the Mallade

210 FORT BRIDGER TO THE CITY OF ROCKS.

Miles.

River. Good camp 140 miles from Salt Lake City. Good
Road.

22^j. Small Creek. — The road ascends a ridge through a canon, and
descends to a valley on the other side. From the Camp to
the summit of the ridge is 6| miles ; the descent is 3-/0
miles. It then crosses a valley 8 miles wide, and strikes a
canon which leads to the top of a hill over a rough road.
Plenty of wood, water, and grass at camp, but no water
between this and the last camp.

9|. Small Creek. — Road after five miles strikes a canon with a long
but gentle ascent. Two miles from the entrance of this
canon is a spring branch. There is wood and some grass
and water at this place.

11£. Spring Branch. — The road passes through a canon, and at 5
miles strikes the head of a spring branch, which it follows
down £5 miles to the junction with a larger branch which is
bridged. At nine-tenths of a mile, another fork enters.
Grass very fine here. Road follows down this across the
main branch, and the camp is 2 miles below. Good camp.
13.}. Decassure Creek, or Raft River. — Road continues down the creek
2-$) miles, and crosses, then ascends by a steep hill to an
elevated sage plain, leaving the creek at 11| miles, and passes
a slough with water. Good camp.

17-^. Spring Branch. — The road crosses the creek near the last
camp, and follows up a valley, crossing in five miles several
spring branches. At 2-^ miles it crosses the creek again,
and follows up the valley 2 miles further, then crosses a
high sage plain 8^ miles long, when it strikes a spring 150
yards to the left of the road, where there is an excellent
camp in a beautiful valley.

] 0. Junction of Salt Lake City Road.— Road passes several small
branches in 3 miles, then commences ascending through a
canon, which, in 2£ miles, leads to the entrance to the " City
of Rocks," and passes through these for three miles. It
then crosses a ridge, leaving the City of Rocks, and, at ten
miles from last camp intersects the road from Salt Lake
City. At 1| miles beyond this, a road leads off to the right
to a spring branch 3 miles, where there is a good camp, near
the foot of Goose Creek Mountain. From this point Cali-
fornian travelers can refer to the itinerary of the route from
Salt Lake City to Sacramento.

SUBLET'S CUT-OFF. 211

X. — From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as
Hudspetlis Cut-off.

Mies.

Soda Springs to —
20. Bear River. — The road runs down Bear River, [crossing some

small streams. Good camp.
10. Portner Creek. — Camp at the head of the creek. Good wood,

water, and grass.

12. Fork of Portner Creek. — Good camp.

15. Pauack Creek. — Road crosses a summit. Good road and camp.
12. Snake Spring. — Good camp.
12. Utha Spring. — Good camp.
15. Decassure Creek. — Road crosses a small stream ; rather bad

crossing. Good camp.
18. City of Rocks. — Junction of Salt lake road. Good camp.

XI. — Sublet' 's Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake
and Fort Hall Roads.

Miles.

Junction to —
7. Big Sandy.

44. Green River. — From the Big Sandy to Green River (upper
road) there is an abundance of grass in places along the road,
but no water.

6. Small Creek. — The road runs up the creek. Good grass.
4. On the Creek. — Good grass and water.
12. Small Spring. — The spring is on the left of the road. Good

grass.

9. Ham's Fork. — Good wood, water, and grass.
6. Spring. — On the summit of a mountain. Good grass.
6. Muddy Creek. — Wood, water, and grass.
10. Spring. — In Bear River Valley. Good wood, water, and grass.

6. Smith's Fork. — In Bear River Valley. Good wood, water, and

grass.

10. Tomaus' Fork. — Road runs down Bear River. Good wood,
water, and grass.

7. Spring Creek. — Wood, water, and grass.

7. Smith's Ford. — Road crosses over a spur of the mountain ; long

and gradual ascent ; descent rather abrupt. Good wood,
water, and grass.

8. Telleck's Fork. — Road runs down Bear River. Good camp.
4. Small Creek. — Good camp.

4. Small Creek. — Good camp.

212 LAWSON'S MEADOWS TO FORT READING.

Miles.

7. Small Creek. — Good camp.

12. Soda Springs. — Left side of the road, among some cedars, is a
good camp.

Here take the left-hand road to California, called Hudspetfts
Cut-off.

XII. — From Lawsoris Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to
Fort Reading, via Rouge River Valley, Fort Lane,
Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones.

Miles.

Lawson's Meadows to —

18^. Mountain Spring. — Road leaves the Humboldt, and takes a
north-westerly course 12 miles to a spring of good water.
Good bunch-grass to the left of the road, and a small spring
at the camp. The road is plain on leaving the river ; but,
after a few days, it becomes faint. Road from this point
passes over a desert country for about 60 miles, without good
water or much grass.

3S£. Black Rock Spring. — Road level and hard, with little veget
ation. In 14 miles pass springs, but the water is not good.
In 16 miles, the road passes a slough which is difficult to
cross ; water not good, but can be [given, to cattle in small
quantities. In five miles from this, the road passes Black
Rock, mentioned by Colonel Fremont in his trip from Colum
bia River in 1843-4. Three miles further, pass boiling springs,
very hot, but good cooled. Grass pretty good.

20J. Mountain Rill. — Water good; bunch-grass in the vicinity. In
8 miles' travel the road passes a beautiful creek of pure
water, with good grass.
5|. Lake (Marshy).

10£. High Rock Canon. — This canon is 25 miles long, with wild and
curious scenery. Road crosses the creek frequently, and the
mud is bad. In the autumn the road is good.

14^. High Rock Canon.

Small Creek. — Beautiful country, with the greatest abundance
of water and grass ; also fuel.

25£. Pine Grove Creek. — Road passes over an interesting country,
well supplied with wood, water, and grass, and passes around
the south end of a salt lake.

185. West Slope of Sierra. — Road passes over the mountain, which
is steep but not rocky, then descends to a small creek of good
water which runs into Goose Lake. Good grass and fuel.

SODA SPRINGS TO FORT WALLAH WALLAH. 213

Miles.

Look out for the Indians, as they are warlike and treacherous

here.

7f . East shore of Goose Lake. — Excellent camp.
16£. West shore of Goose Lake. — This is a beautiful sheet of fresh

water ; great quantities of water-fowl resort to this lake.
16|. Slough Springs. — The road passes over a very rocky divide,

covered with loose volcanic debris, very hard for animals, and

wearing to their feet. They should be well shod before

attempting the passage.

18i. Marshy Lake.— Koad difficult for wagons.
15. Clear Lake. — Beautiful lake of pure water, with good grass

around its shore.
2o|. East shore of Bhett's Lake. — Road tolerable over' a rolling,

rocky country, between lakes. The road crosses Lost River

over a natural bridge, on a solid smooth ledge of rock.

19. West shore of Rhett's Lake. — Plenty of wood, water, and grass

along this road.
21. Klamath River. — Road leaves Rhett's Lake, and enters the

forest and mountains ; tolerably good. Good camp.
15|. Cascade Mountains, — The road passes over high mountains,
through lofty pine trees. Camp is at Summit Meadows.
Good water and grass ; also fuel.

14J. Western slope of Cascade Mountains. — Rough roads.
19|. Rogue River Valley. — Road descends into the settlements in
six miles, where there is a lovely fertile valley, well settled
with farmers.
23f. Fort Lane. — Near "Table Rock," on Rogue River, eight miles

from Jacksonville. Dragoon post.
22-f . Rogue River Valley. — Good camp.
18. Siskiyou Mountains. — Road crosses the Siskiyou Mountains,

and is difficult for wagons.
18. Yreka. — Flourishing mining city.
18. Fort Jones. — Infantry post, in Scott's Valley.

20. Scott's Mountain, — Good camp at the foot of the mountain.

Road passes over the mountains ; but is impassable for
wagons.

90. Shasta City. — Good grass, wood, and water.
1 80. Sacramento City.

XIII. — From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and
Oregon City, Oregon, via Fort Hall.

Miles.

Soda Springs to —
25. Portner Creek. — Good camp. Take the right-hand road.

214 SODA SPRINGS TO FORT WALLAH WALLAH.

Miles.

10. Ross's Creek. — Good camp.

10. Fort Hall Valley. — Good camp. Road runs down the creek.

8. Snake River. — Good camp. Road crosses the river bottom.

5. Fort Hall.

15. Small Branch. — Camp is three miles below the crossing of Port

Neuf River, which is fordable. Good wood, water, and grass.
10. American Falls. — Good camp.
13. Raft River. — Road rough and rocky. Sage for fuel ; grass

scarce.

17. Bend of Swamp Creek. — Grass scarce.
20. On Snake River. — Road crosses Swamp and Goose Creeks.

Wood on the hills ; grass short.

25. Rock Creek. — Road crosses one small creek, and is very rough

and rocky for several miles, when it enters a sandy region,
where the grass is scarce ; sage plenty, and willows on the
creek.

24. Snake River. — Road crosses several small branches. There is
but little grass, except in narrow patches along the river
bottom.

26. Fishing Falls. — Road very crooked and rough, crossing two

small streams.

29. Snake River. — Road crosses several small creeks, but leaves the
main river to the north, and runs upon an elevated plateau.
Good grass at camp.

16. Snake River (ford). — Road tortuous ; ford good in low water.

19. Small Branch — Road crosses Snake River, and follows up a small

branch, leaving the river to the left ; good grass. Road as
cends to a high plateau, which it keeps during the whole
distance.

26. River "Aux Rochers." — Road passes Hot Springs, and is rough.
Wood, water, and grass plenty.

22. Small Creek. — Road crosses two small branches, and is very

rocky, but, at camp, grass, wood, and water are abundant.

23. Rio Boise\ — Road crosses one small creek, and follows along the

Bois& River. Good wood, water, and grass.

26. Fort Boise. — Road follows the south bank of Boise River to the

fort.

2. Fort Boise. — Road crosses Bois£ River. Good ford at ordinary
stages. Grass good in the river bottom.

20. River "Aux 'Matthews." — Good road; grass abundant, but

coarse ; wood and water plenty.

27. Snake River. — Road passes over a rough country. Grass scarce,

and of a poor quality.

20. Burnt River. — Road leaves Snake River, and takes across Burnt
River, following up the north side of this to the camp. It is
mountainous and rough, but the grass is good, and there is
wood along the river.

SODA SPRINGS TO FORT WALLAH WALLAH. 215

Miles.

22. Burnt River. — Road continues up the river, and is still rough.

and mountainous. Grass and wood plenty.
26. Small branch. — Road passes over a divide to " Powder River."

It is still rough, but getting better. The grass is good.
13. Powder River. — Good road ; grass plenty.
21. Creek. — Road passes a divide, crossing several small streams,

and is smooth, with plenty of grass and fuel.

20. Creek. — Road crosses one small branch, and is rather rough.

The grass and fuel are good and abundant.

21. Creek. — Road follows down the creek for ten miles, then turns

up a small branch, and is good. There is plenty of grass and
fuel.
12. Branch. — Road crosses a divide and strikes another branch.

5. Small branch of the Umatilah River. — Good road, with plenty of

wood and grass.

16. Branch of Wallah Wallah River.— Wood, water, and grass.
18. Wallah Wallah River. — Wood, water, and grass.
18. Wallah Wallah River. — Wood, water, and grass.

Columbia River at Fort Wallah. — Wood water, and grass.
10. Butler Creek. — Good camp.

18. Well's Spring. — Good camp.

12. Willow Creek. — Good. camp.

13. Cedar Spring. — Good camp.

6. John Day's River. — Good camp.

5. Forks of Road. — No camping. Left-hand road for wagons, and

right-hand for pack-trains. This itinerary takes the left.
10. Ouley's Camp. — Good camp.

19. Soot's River. — Good camp.

6. Fall River. — Good camp.
10. Utah's River. — Good camp.
18. Soot's River. — Good camp.

6. Soot's River. — Good camp. Road follows up the river, crossing
it several times.

1 6. Sand River Fork. — Good grass a mile and a half to the left of

the road.
8. Good Camp.
15. Royal Hill Camp. — Good camp.

17. Sandy River. — But little grass.

45. Down the River. — Good camps all the distance.
25. Oregon City. — Good camps all the distance.
75. Salem. — Good camps all the distance.

216 INDIANOLA TO SAN ANTONIO.

XIY. — Route for pack trains from John Day's River to
Oregon City.

Miles.

John Day's River to —
17. Columbia River. — From John Day's River to the forks of the

road, and thence by the right-hand fork to the Columbia.

Good camp.

2-1. Soot's River Ferry. — Good camp.
15. Dalles. — Good camp.
25. Dog River. — Good camp.
15. Cascade Mountains. — One bad place.
9. Ouley's Rock. — Good camp.
20. Image Plain Ferry. — Good camp.
15. Portland. — Good camp.
12. Oregon City.— Good camp.

XY. — From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio,

Texas.

Miles.

Powder-horn to —
4. Indianola, Texas. — Steamers run from New Orleans five times

a week to Powder-horn.

14. Chocolate Creek. — Good grass and water ; fuel scarce. Road
passes over a low flat country, which in wet weather is heavy
and muddy.

12. Grove. — Grove of oak ; good water and grass. The road
passes over a hog-wallow prairie, which is very muddy, and
almost impassable for loaded teams after rains. The grass is
abundant everywhere in this section.

12|. Victoria. — The road is good, passing along near the east bank
of the Guadalupe River. The country is thickly settled with
farmers, who sell grain at reasonable rates. Grass abundant,
also fuel.

34. "X orktown. — Road crosses the Guadalupe River on a bridge ;

toll one dollar for a six-mule team. It then crosses a low
bottom for three miles ; from thence the road is good, over a
rolling country, with plenty of wood, water, and grass.
33. Cibello River.— Good road ; wood, water, and grass plenty.

35. San Antonio. — Good road, with plenty of wood, water, and grass

along the road. The Cibello is fordable at ordinary stages.
The traveler can procure anything he may need at Victoria
and at San Antonio.

SAN ANTONIO TO FORT YUM A. 217

XYL — Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso,
N.M., and Fort Yuma, Cal.

[Distances in miles and huudredtbs of a mile.]
Miles,

San Antonio to —
641. Leona.
18-12. Castro ville.
11-00. Hondo.
14-28. Rio Seco.
12-50. Sabinal.
13-46. Rio Frio.
15-12. Neuces.
10-27. Turkey Creek.

15-33. Elm Creek. — All good camps, with abundance of wood, water,

and grass. Country mostly settled, and the road very

good, except in wet weather, from San Antonio to Elm

Creek.

7*00. Fort Clarke. — Good grass, wood, and water. Road level and

good.

7'00. Piedra Pinta. — Good grass, wood, and water.
8'86. Maverick's Creek. — Good grass, wood, and water.
12-61. San Felipe". — Good grass, wood and water.
10-22. Devil's River. — First crossing. Good wood, water, and grass.
18'27. California Springs. Grass and water poor.
18*39. Devil's River. — Second crossing. Grass poor.
19-50. Devil's River.— Good camp. The only water between Devil's
River and Live Oak Creek is at Howard's Springs. The
road is very rough in places.
44-00. Howard's Springs. — Grass scarce; water plenty in winter;

wood plenty.
30*44. Live Oak Creek. — Good water and grass. The road passes

within 1| miles of Fort Lancaster.
7-29. Crossing of Pecos River. — Bad water and bad camp. The

water of the Pecos can be used.
5'47. Las Moras. — Good water, grass, and wood. The road is rough

on the Pecos.

32-85. Camp on the Pecos River. — Wood and grass scarce.
16-26. Escondido Creek. — At the crossing. Water good ; little grass

or wood.

8-76. Escondido Spring. — Grass and water good ; little grass.
19-40. Comanche Creek. — Grass and water good ; little grass.

8'88. Leon Springs. — Grass and water good; no wood.
33'86. Barela Spring. — Grass and water good ; wood plenty.
28'00. Fort Davis. — Good camp. From Fort Davis to Eagle Springs

there is an ascent, and one of the very best of roads.
18-42. Barrel Springs. — Water good ; grass and wood fair.

218 SAN ANTONIO TO FORT YUM A.

Miles.

13-58. Dead Man's Hole. — Good wood and water ; grass scarce.
32-83. Van Home's Wells. — No grass or wood ; but they will be

found two miles back.
1974. Eagle Springs. — Grass and wood poor ; water about half a

mile from camp in a narrow canon.
32-03. Mouth of Canon "de los Camenos."— The road is rather

rough. From here to Fort Bliss, opposite El Paso, the road

runs near the river, and camps may be made anywhere.

The wood, water, and grass are good at all points.
61 '13. San Eluzario. — Mexican town.
9" 25. Socorro. — Mexican town.
15-00. Fort Bliss, at El Paso.— United States military post and

Mexican town.
Total distance from San Antonio to El Paso, 654-27 miles.

Miles.

El Paso to—

22. Cottonwood.— From El Paso to Messilla Valley, in the Gadsden
Purchase, the road runs up the east bank of the Rio Grande
to Fort Fillmore (N.M.), where it crosses the river into the
Messilla Valley.

22. Fort Fillmore.
6. La Messilla.

65. Cook's Spring. — From Messilla Valley to Tucson the road is
remarkably good, with good grass and water. The streams on
this section are the Mimhres and San Pedro, both fordable,
and crossed with little trouble. The Apache Indians are
generally met with in this country. There is a flour-mill
two miles below El Paso, where flour can be purchased at
very reasonable prices.

18. Rio Mimbres.

17. Ojo la Vaca.
10. Ojo de Ynez.
34. Peloncilla.

18. San Domingo.

23. Apache Springs.
9. Cabesas Springs.

26. Dragon Springs.

18. Quercos Canon. — Bunch-grass will be found sufficient for
traveling purposes along this section of the road between El
Paso and Tucson.
6. San Pedro Crossing.
20. Cienega.
13. Cienega Creek.
20. Mission of San Xavier.
8. Tucson. — Total distance from El Paso to Tucson, 305 miles.

FORT YUMA TO SAN DIEGO. 219

Miles.
5. Pico Chico Mountain.

35. First Camp on Gila River.

29. Maricopa Wells. — The Maricopa Wells are at the western ex
tremity of a fertile valley occupied by Pincos Indians, who
cultivate corn and other grain.

40. Tezotal. — Across Jornada. There is but little grass here ; but, in
the season, the mesquite leaves are a good substitute.

10. Ten Mile Camp.

15. Oatman's Flat. — First crossing of the Gila River.

25. Second crossing of the Gila. — The traveler can generally find

sufficient grass in the hills along the valley of the Gila.
32. Peterman's Station.
20. Antelope Peak.
24. Little Corral.

16. Fort Yuma.

The distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma is 644 miles.

XVII. — From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California.

[Distances in miles and huudredths of a mile.J'

Fort Yuma to —

10*00. Los Algodones. — Along the Colorado.
10-00. Cook's Wells. — Here commences the great desert; water

nowhere good or reliable, until ariving at Carizo Creek.

The points named are where deep wells have been dug.

" New River," though usually set down, is a dry arroyo.

The surface of the desert for seven miles on the eastern

side is drifting sand and heavy for wagons. Then comes a

section in the centre of the desert that is hard and level.

On the west side there is about three miles of a mud flat.
21-90. Alamo Rancho.
16-40. Little Laguna.
4- 50. New River.
5-80. Big Laguna.
26-40. Carizo Creek. — Water good ; cane and brush for fuel, and

they afford some forage for the animals ; no grass.
16'60. Vallecito. — Grass poor ; wood and water sufficient.
17'80. San Felipe. — Grass poor ; wood scarce ; water good.
15-80. Warner's Ranch. — The road passes through a beautiful oak

grove, where there is an abundance of grass and water.

This is the summit of the mountain. At the Ranch the

grass is poor, and no wood. The water is good. The oak

grove terminates six miles from Warner's.

220 EL PASO TO FORT ?UMA.

Miles.

10*30. Santa Isabel. — Good grass, wood, and water. This was an
old Spanish mission, but is now occupied by some Ameri
cans and Indians.

11-40. Laguna. — Two miles from last camp, is a good camping-place.
The road passes over some steep hills, not high. This is
the best camp on the road.

12-00. San Pasquel. — For the first nine miles, the road is level and
good to the top of the mountain, where there is a good
camping-place, with wood, water, and grass ; thence the
road descends a very steep hill. The camp is on the east
side of the brook, near Soto's house.

18-80. Parrasquitas. — The road passes a good camp three miles from

San Pasqual. Wood, water, and grass at Parrasquitas.
8-00, Fisher's House.— The road passes over several hills ; and, at
four miles, is a good camping-place. Wood, water, and
grass at camp.

San Diego, California. — When animals are to be kept a con
siderable time at San Diego, they should be taken four or
five miles up the river, as the grass is poor near the town.
Total distance from Fort Yuma to San Diego, 217 miles.

XVIII. — From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma,
California, via Santa Cruz.

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

From El Paso to —

26-10. Samalayuca. — Spring, with grass and wood.

38-00. Salado. — Bad water, with little grass and wood.

24'75. Santa Maria. — Good grass, wood, and water.

27*50. Mines of San Pedro. — Bad water ; little grass or water.

19'20. Correlitos. — Good water, grass, and wood.

20'00. Janos. — Good water, grass, and wood.

12*00. Pelatudo. — Good water, grass, and wood.

30-00. San Francisco. — Water half-a-mile south of the road.

18'00. San Louis. — Good water, grass, and wood.

35'00. San Bernardino. — Good water, grass, and wood.

30-00. Ash Creek. — Grass, wood and water.

37*00. Head of San Pedro. — Grass and water.

24*00. Santa Cruz. — Good grass, wood, and water.

31*00. Cocospe. — Much grass ; ten or twelve miles without water.
Leave Santa Cruz River at old Rancho San Lazaro. No
water till reaching the head of San Ignacio, except at nine
miles ; a spring, one mile west of the road.

EL PASO TO FORT YUMA. 22 1

Miles.

26'00. Hemores. — From Cocospe to Santa Anna, follow down the

San Ignacio ; and in many places there is wood and grass.

Grass is much better at three miles from the river. At

the foot of the hills there is abundance of grama-grass.
5-00. Terrenati.
4-00. San Ignacio.
5-20. Madina.
5*20. San Lorenzo.
2-60. Santa Marta.
5*20. Santa Anna.
26*00. Alamita. — Plenty of grass. Leave the river ten or twelve

miles from Santa Anna, and no water thence to Alamita,

which is a small rancho.
31*20. Altar. — No water ; grass abundant.
13*00. Laguna. — Small water-hole ; grass scanty and poor.
52*00. Sonia. — Sometimes water is found 25 miles from the Laguna,

south of the road. There is a well at Sonia in the town,

and sometimes water in a hole 300 yards south of the town,

100 yards west of the road.
10-40. El Paso.— Well at El Paso supplying 100 animals ; water

muddy and brackish ; grass poor.
52-00. Sonorita. — No water on the road ; at Sonorita are several

brackish springs. Grass poor ; bad campaigning place ;

saltpeter at the springs.
Quita Oaquita. — No water on the road. Saline spring at

camp, better than at Sonorita, but the grass is not so good.
10*40. Agua Salado. — Water uncertain ; grass poor.
23*40. Los Pleyes. — Water only in the rainy season, one mile west

of the road, hidden by bushes, and difficult to find ; grass

pretty good.
28*60. Cabeza Prieta. — Natural tenajas in a ravine two miles from

the road ; follow a wagon-track up this ravine between a

black and a red mountain. The water is good and abun
dant ; grass tolerable.
31*00. Poso. — No water on the road until reaching Poso. Here it is

abundant on the east side of the road; grass good one

mile west.

13-00. Kio Gila.— But little good grass.
26*00. Fort Yuma, at the crossing of the Colorado River.— But little

good grass for several miles.

Total Distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma, 756 miles

222

XIX. — From Westport f Missouri, to the gold diggings at
Pikes Peak and " Cherry Creek," N.T., via the Arkansas
River.

Miles.

Westport to —

4|. Indian Creek. — The road rims over a beautiful country. Indian
Creek is a small wooded stream, with abundance of grass and
water.

8|. Cedar Creek. — The road passes over a fine country, and there
is a good camping-place at Cedar Creek.

83. Bull Creek. — The road is smooth and level, with less wood
than before. Camping good.

9£. Willow Springs. — At nine miles, the road passes "Black Jack
Creek," where there is a good camping-place. The road has
but little wood upon it at firs ; but it increases towards the
end of the march. The road is level for some distance, but
becomes more rolling, and the country is covered with the
finest grass. Good camp at one mile from the main road.
20i. 110-Mile Creek. — The road traverses the same character of
country as yesterday, but with less woodland, is very
smooth, and at nine and twelve miles passes "Rock Creeks,"
which have no running water in a dry season. Good camp.
22£. Prairie Chicken Creek. — At eight miles the road crosses
Dwissler Creek, which is a fine little stream ; four mil^s
further First Dragoon Creek, and at one mile further the
Second Dragoon Creek, both fine streams, well wooded, and
good camping places. Good camp.

20. "Big Rock Creek." — At one mile the road crosses a small
wooded branch. Three miles beyond, it crosses " Elm Creek,"
where a good camping-place may be found. At seven miles, it
crosses 142-Mile Creek, and at thirteen miles it crosses Bluff
Creek, where there is a good camping-place. Good camp.

20. " Council Grove," on "Elm Creek."— Road passes "Big John
Spring " at thirteen miles, and is smooth and good. A fine
camp is found three-fourths of a mile beyond the -< Grove,'
on Elm Creek, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.

16. Diamond Spring. — At eight miles the road crosses Elm Creek,
"and passes over a section similar to that east of Council
Grove. It is fine in dry weather, but muddy after heavy
rains. Good camp at Diamond Spring.

16. Lost Spring. — One mile from camp, the road passes a wooded
creek. From thence there is no more wood or permanent
water until arriving at camp. Take wood here for cooking,
as there is not a tree or a bush in sight from Lost Spring.
The country becomes more level, with grass everywhere.
The road is muddy in wet weather.

WESTPORT TO PIKE'S PEAK. 223

Miles.

15f. Cotton wood Creek. — Road continues over a prairie country,
sensibly rising arid improving. Wood, water, and grass at
camp.

22. Turkey Creek. — The road is good, and at eighteen miles passes

Little Turkey Creek. No wood, and the water poor at camp ;
grass good.

23. Little Arkansas River. — The road runs over a level prairie, and

at 3£ miles passes "Big Turkey Cr,eek," with the Arkansas
River Valley in sight all day. After rains, there are frequent
pools of water along the road. Good camp.

20. "Big Cow" Creek. — The road passes for ten miles over a level
prairie to Charez Creek, which is a bushy gully; thence six
miles to Little Cow Creek, which is a brushy stream, with
here and there a tree. Good camp here to the left of the
road, near a clump of trees. " Prairie-dog towns " commence
to be seen. Road very level. Buffalo-grass here.

20. Big Bend of the Arkansas. — The road, at twelve miles, strikes

the sand-hills of the Arkansas River. They are soon passed,
however, and the level river bottom is reached. The river
has a rapid current flowing over a quicksand bed. The road
is generally good from the last camp. Wood, water, and
grass at camp.

7. Walnut Creek. The road is good. Cool springs at this camp ;
good grass and wood.

21. Head of Coon Creek. — At five miles, the road forks, one follow

ing the river, the other a " short-cut " " dry route " to Fort
Atkinson, where they unite on the river. The country rises
for ten miles on the dry route, then descends to the river,
and is covered with the short buffalo-grass. No wood at camp.

18. Arkansas River. — The road passes over an undulating and un

interesting prairie, with but little vegetation. The water in
dry weather is in pools.

19. Arkansas River, at Fort Atkinson. — The road runs over a

similar country to that of yesterday, with no wood near ;

plenty of buffalo-chips for cooking, and good grass.
18|. Arkansas River. — At 4^ miles the road ascends a bluff covered

with thick buffalo grass. On the river is heavy bottom grass.

At seventeen miles pass a ford. Grass good at camp.
] 9£. Arkansas River. — The road is sandy for fourteen miles, but not

deep, except in places ; thence to c#,mp it is good. Good

camp.

22. Arkansas River. — Country prairie, covered with short buffalo-

grass ; good camp.

22. Arkansas River. — The road is fine, crossing several dry beds of
creeks, along which are seen a few scattering trees. Good
camp on a dry creek near the river.

24. Arkansas River. — The road runs over a barren plain at the

224 WESTPORT TO

Miles.

foot of the main plateau, and crosses two dry creeks near the

camp, on which are cottonwood-trees. Plenty of wood at

camp.
21. Arkansas River. — The road follows the base of the hills at from

one to three miles from the river ; good camp.
20. Arkansas River. — At seven miles, the road strikes the " Big

Timbers," where there is a large body of cotton wood ; thence

for three miles the road is heavy sand ; good camps along

here.
13. Arkansas River. — At one mile, the road passes some old houses

formerly used as a trading-post. Here terminates the "Big

Timbers." Coarse grass at the camp.
15. Arkansas River. — At three miles, the road passes the mouth of

Purgatoire Creek. Camp is below Bent's Fort. Good grass

here.
24. Arkansas River. — Pass Bent's Fort. The grass is excellent in

the vicinity of the fort, but after this it is not so good. The

road runs over a high and considerably broken country;

good camp.

11. Arkansas River. — Opposite the mouth of the Apishpa Creek ;

good camp. The Huerfano Mountains and Spanish Peaks are
insight from the camp. The "Cherokee Trail" comes in
from Arkansas, near Bent's Fort, and leads to the gold dig
gings at Cherry Creek.

9. Arkansas River. — Opposite the mouth of the Huerfano Creek.
Good camp, and a ford opposite Charles Aude bee's House.

12. Arkansas River. — At this point the Cherokee trail bears to the

right and leaves the river. The left-hand, or river road, runs
up to the old pueblo at the mouth of the Fontaine qui Bouille
Creek. The right-hand road leads to the gold diggings.

15|. Fontaine qui Bouille. — The road strikes in a north-west course
over the rolling country, and comes upon the creek at a most
beautiful camp, where there is a great abundance of good
wood, water, and grass, The wood, water, and grass are good
at all points on the Fontaine qui Bouille, and travelers can
camp anywhere upon this stream.

17 £. Fontaine qui Bouille. — Here the road forks, one running up the
river, and the other striking directly across to the divide of
the Arkansas and Platte. I prefer the left-hand road, as
it has more water and better grass upon it.

6£. Forks of the " Fontaine qui Bouille." The road to Cherry
Creek here leaves the " Fontaine qui Bouille " and bears to
the right. There is a large Indian trail which crosses the
main creek, and takes a north-west course toward " Pike's
Peak." By going up this trail about two miles, a mineral
spring will be found, which gives the spring its name of " The
Fountain that Boils." This spring, or rather these springs,

225

Miles.

as there are two, both of which boil up out of solid rock, are
among the greatest natural curiosities that I have ever seen.
The water is strongly impregnated with salts, but is delight
ful to the taste, and somewhat similar to the Congress-water.
It will well compensate anyone for the trouble of visiting
it.

17.2- Black Squirrel Creek. — This creek is near the crest of the high
divide between the Arkansas and Platte Rivers. It is a small
running branch, but always affords good water. There is
pine timber here, and the grass is good on the prairies to the
east. This is a locality which is very subject to severe
storms, and it was here that 1 encountered the most severe
snow-storm that I have ever known, on the 1st day of May, 1858.
I would advise travelers to hasten past this spot as rapidly
as possible during the winter and spring months, as a storm
might prove very serious here.

14. Near the head of Cherry Creek. — The road crosses one small
branch at four miles from Black Squirrel Creek ; it then takes
up to an elevated plateau, which in a rainy season is very
muddy. The camp is at the first timber that is found, near
the road, to the left. There is plenty of wood, water, and
grass here. There is also a good camping-place at the small
branch that is mentioned.

10. On Cherry Creek. — There is good grass, wood and water

throughout the valley of Cherry Creek. The mountains are
from five to ten miles distant, on the left or west of the road,
and when I passed there was a great abundance of elk, deer,
antelope, bear, and turkeys throughout this section.
7. On Cherry Creek. — Good camp.

11. On Cherry Creek. — Good camp.

17. Mouth of Cherry Creek, at the South Platte. — Good camp, and
a town built up since 1 passed, called Denver City.

Total distance from Westport to the gold diggings,
miles.

XX.— From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah,
Oregon.

Miles.

St. Paul's to—
17£. Small Brook. — The wood, water, and grass are abundant as far

as the "Bois des Sioux" River.

20|-, Cow Creek. — This stream is crossed on a bridge.
284. Small Lake. — North of the road. The road passes over a rolling

prairie, and crosses Elk River on a bridge.
Q

226 ST. PAUL'S TO FORT WALLAH WALLAH.

Miles.

17. Near Sank Rapids.--The road crosses Elk River twice on bridges;

Mississippi River near.

18. Russel's. — Ferry across the Mississippi River, then follow the

Red River trail. Camp is on a cold spring brook.

6. Cold Spring Brook.— Cross Sauk River, 300 feet wide, 4£ feet

deep.

19£. Lake Henry. — Road good.
ISf. Lightning Lake. — Cross Cow River in a ferry-boat; water 4|

feet deep.

IT?. Lake. — One mile from Red River trail. Pass White Bean Lake.
9£. Pike Lake. — Pass the South Branch of the Chippeway River.

Road runs over rolling prairie, and crosses a small branch.
19J. Small Lake. — Cross Chippeway River in a boat. Road passes

numerous lakes, and the best grass.
9|. Small Lake. — Road passes rolling prairies, and crosses Rabbit

River.

27. fa Bois des Sioux " River. — Cross Bois des Sioux Prairie ; rolling
ground.

11. Wild Rice River. — Cross "Bois des Sioux" River, 70 feet wide,

and 4 to 7 feet deep, muddy bottom and banks. Wood, water,
and grass at all camps between this and Maple River.
4?r. Small Creek. — Cross Wild Rice River on a bridge.
26^. Sheyene River. — Smooth prairie road.
16£. Maple River. — Cross Sheyene River on a bridge, and several

small branches.

20. Small Creek. — Smooth road ; no wood.

20. Pond. — Wet and marshy ; numerous ponds in sight ; no wood.
15. Pond. — No wood; approaching Sheyene River.
13£. Sheyene River. — Prairie more rolling; camp in the river bot
tom. Wood, water, and grass abundant.

7. Slough. — Cross Sheyene River, 50 feet wide, 3£ feet deep. No

wood.
10. Lake. — Rolling prairie, with many marshes. Wood, water, and

grass.

IQi. Pond. — Low, wet prairie ; no wood ; plenty of grass and water.
18£. Marsh. — Smooth prairie, generally dry.
20. "Riviere a Jaques." — Smooth prairie, with marshes. Road

crosses the river several times. Wood, water, and grass.
21s. Pond. — Hilly and marshy prairie, with small ponds, and no wood.

12. Small Branch. — Marshy prairie, filled with ponds, with a thin,

short grass, and no wood.
19£. Lake. — On a high knoll. Road crosses the South Fork of

Sheyene River ; good crossing ; thence rolling prairie, passing

"Balto de Morale," also a narrow lake 4£ miles long.
16 £. Pond. — Marshy prairie, ponds, and knolls ; cross a small branch

at 7f miles. No wood.
17|. Pond. — Rolling prairie. Cross Wintering River, a deep muddy

ST. PAUL'S TO FORT WALLAH WALLAH. 227

Miles.

stream 100 feet wide, also marshy prairies and ponds. .No

wood.
16. Small branch.— Tributary of Mouse River. Road skirts the

valley of Mouse River, crossing the ravines near their heads.
15£. Pond. — Undulating prairie with occasional marshes; the road

then turns up the high ridge called " Grand Coteau." No

wood.

20J. Lake. — Hilly road approaching Grand Coteau. No wood.
20. Lake. — Rolling prairie ; smooth, good road ; no wood.
15J. Pond. — Road passes Grand Coteau at 11 miles, and runs between

two lakes. No wood, but plenty of " bois de vache " for fuel.
19^. Branch of White Earth River. — Country rolling and hilly. Road

passes wood at eight miles from camp.
23\. Pond. — For two miles the road passes over a low, flat country,

after which the country is hilly. No wood.
23£. Pond. — Rolling and hilly country, with rocky knobs. At 18

miles cross branch of Muddy Creek 15 feet wide. Wood in

ravines near this stream. No wood at camp.
20. Pond. — Rolling country. At 11 miles there is water in a ravine.

To the left there is more water, but the country is rough.

No wood.
16{. Fort Union— Road descends a hill to the fort; before this it

passes over high, firm prairie. Good grass near in the

hills.
63-. Pond. — No wood ; good grass.

6. Little Muddy River. — Good camp.
15£. Creek. — Two good camps between this and the last. Wood,

water, and grass.

10. Big Muddy River. — Drift-wood for fuel.

11. Marsh near Missouri. — Good camp.

18. Poplar River. — Good camp. One or two good camps between

this and the last camp.
23£. Creek near Missouri. — Good camp.

15. Slough near Missouri. — Good camp.

17£. Milk River. — One good camp between this and the last camp.

13*. Milk River. — Several good camps passed.

174. Milk River. — Good camp.

192. Milk River. — Several good camps passed.

17f . Milk River. — At the crossing. The road follows a trail on the

bluffs, and descends again to the river.
7£. Lake. — No wood; grass and water plenty.
12^. Milk River. — Second crossing. Good camp.

12. Milk River. — Good camp.

15^. Milk River. — Good camps between this and the last camp
lOf. Milk River.— Good camp.
20. Milk River. — Good camp.

16. Milk River. — Good camp.

228 ST. PAUL'S TO FORT WALLAH WALLAH.

Miles.

18. Milk River. — At the third crossing. — Good camp.
7£. Branch of Milk River. — Good camp.
17£. Branch of Milk River. — Several good camps between this and

the last camp.

6. Branch of Milk River. — Good camp.
19|. Prairie Spring. — No wood; water and grass plenty.
13|. Teton River. — Road crosses "Marias River."
8f . Teton River, at Fort Benton. — A trading-post.
2£. Small Creek. — Good wood, water, and grass.
18|. Missouri River. — Good camp.
20. Missouri River. — Above the falls. Road much broken into

ravines. Wood, water, and grass.

16|. Missouri River — Road crosses first tributary above Fort Ben-
ton at ten miles.
17. Missouri River. — The road becomes very bad after fourteen

miles, but is better on the north side of the Missouri.
6. Missouri River. — The road is exceedingly rough and broken ;

crosses the river. — Good wood, water, and grass.
11. Tributary of the Missouri. — The most difficult part of the road

is passed, but the country is still hilly.

18£. Tributary of the Missouri. — The road follows up the last-men
tioned stream to near its head. Good camps.
15. Near the summit of Little Blackfoot pass, on a broad Indian

trail ; excellent road.

14|. Little Blackfoot River. — Road crosses the summit of the Rocky
Mountains. Good road for wagons, with many camping-
places.
17£ Little Blackfoot River. — Road good, descending along the river.

Near the camp a large fork comes in.
28^ Little Blackfoot River. — Good road, which follows the broad

open valley for fourteen miles. Good camps.

19s. Little Blackfoot River. — The valley contracts, so that wagons
will be forced to take the bed of the river in some places.
The river is fordable, and the trail crosses it five times during
the day.

22*. Blackfoot River. — Sixteen miles from the last camp " Black-
foot " and " Hell Gate " Rive/rs enter, and about one mile of
this distance is impassable for wagons ; they would have to
cross the river, which is fordable. Good camps.
27£. Fort Owen. — Road runs up the St. Mary's River to Fort Owen

over a broad, good trail in the valley.

40. St. Mary's River. — The south Nez Perces trail leaves the main
trail, which ascends the St. Mary's Valley to the Forks, and
follows the south-west fork to its source. To the Forks, the
valley of the St. Mary's is open, and admits wagons.
24. South-west Fork of St. Mary's River. — The road follows a nar
row trail, crossing the river frequently, and is not passable
for wagons. The valley is narrow and shut in by hills.

ST. PAUL'S TO FORT WALLAH WALLAH. 229

Miles.

5£. Kooskooskia Kiver. — Road leaves the St. Mary's River, pass
ing over a high ridge to the Kooskooskia River.
10. Branch. — Road runs over wooded hills.

14. Creek. — Road runs over wooded hills.

9. Small Creek.— This is the best camp between the St. Mary's
River and the Nez Perces country.

15. Small Creek. — Road passes over wooded hills.

9. Small Branch. — Road passes over wooded hills, is very rough

and difficult. Poor camp.

14. Small Creek. — Ten miles from last camp, the road passes a high
divide, ascending rapidly, though not difficult. Good grass
on the summit, but no water.
13. Small Creek. — Good camp where the trail emerges from the

woods on to the high plateau.
7. Clear Water River. — Large tributary. Road runs over high

table-land, and descends to the valley of the river.
43. Lapwai River. — The road follows a broad trail down the river
six miles, when it leaves the river bottom and ascends the
plateau, which extends to Craig's house, on the Lapwai, fif
teen miles from the river.

23. Tributary Snake River. — The trail runs over high ground from
Craig's to Lapwai River, fifteen miles. This river is 450 feet
wide. No wood. Indians are generally found here, who
ferry over travelers. The trail follows Snake River for
several miles.

26^. Tchannon River. — The trail passes 5£ miles up the bottom of a

small creek ; then runs over a steep hill to another small

creek, 8 miles ; then along the valley of this stream 10£ miles ;

thence over a high hill to camp on Tchannon River, 3 miles.

11 J. Touchet River. — The trail crosses the Tchannon River, and

ascends to a high plain, which continues to camp.
32^. Touchet River. — Road follows a good trail along the valley,
where good camps are found anywhere, with wood, water, and
grass.

19i. Fort Wallah Wallah.— Leaving Touchet River, the trail passes
over again to the plains, where there is neither wood, water,
or grass to Fort Wallah Wallah.

Total distance from St. Paul's to Fort Union 712^ miles.

„ „ Fort Union to Fort Benton 377£ „

„ „ Fort Benton to Fort Owen 255 „

„ Fort Owen to Fort Wallah Wallah 340| „

Total distance from St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah

Wallah, Oregon 1685| ,,

230

XXI, — Lieutenant^. F. BEALE'S route from Albuquerque to
the Colorado River.

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.

Albuquerque to —
). Atrisco.— W(

2-10. Atrisco. — Wood, water, and grass.
2O63. Rio Puerco. — Water in pools ; wood and grass.
19'41. Near Puta. — Abundance of wood, water, and grass.
13-12. Covera. — Water and grass abundant ; wood scarce.
13 06. Hay Camp. — Wood, water, and grass plenty.
25'37. Agua Frio. — Wood, water, and grass plenty.
16'28. Inscription Rock. — Small spring ; grass and wood plenty.
16'32. Ojo del Pescado. — Water and grass plenty ; wood for camp.
15-13. Zuni. — Grass and water plenty ; wood scarce.

6' 19. Indian Well. — Wood, water, and grass.
14-43. No. 1.— Wood and grass ; no water.
11 '93. Jacob's Well. — Wood, water, and grass.

6'57. No. 2, Navajo Spring, — Wood, water, and grass.
13-62. Noon Halt. — Water by digging; grass and wood scarce.

6'13. No. 3. — Grass abundant.

7'75. Noon Halt. — Water, wood, and grass abundant.

7'25. No. 4. — Water in holes ; grass and fuel plenty.

3-60. Three Lakes.— Wood, water, and grass.

1-75. Crossing Puerco. — Wood, water, and grass abundant as far as

Leroux Spring.
11-25. No. 5.
18-50. No. 6.
10-17. No. 7.
13-25. No. 8.
19-35. Canon Diablo.
14-75. No. 10.

13'50. Near Cosnino (Colinino) Caves.
17-32. San Francisco Spring.

9-06. Leroux Spring.

8'48. No. 13. — Wood and grass, but no water.
1T13. Breckenridge Spring. — Wood, water, and grass abundant.

8'07. No. 14. — Wood, water and grass abundant.

6-50. Cedar Spring.— Wood, water, and grass abundant.
10'50. No. 15. — Wood, wrater, and grass abundant.
19'75. Alexander's Canon. — Wood and grass plenty ; not much
water.

8'05. Smith's Spring. — Wood, water, and grass abundant.

8'75. Pass Dornin. — Wood and grass abundant ; no water.
13'50. No. 19. — Wood and grass abundant ; no water.
16'35. No. 20. — Water two miles from camp ; wood and grass plenty.

4'06. Hemphill's Spring. — Wood, water, and grass abundant.

ALBUQUERQUE TO SAN PEDRO. 231

Miles.

21-25. No. 21. — Wood, water, and grass abundant.

9'75. No. 22. — Wood and grass ; spring one mile distant.

5*50. No. 23. — Wood and grass plenty ; no water.

8'45. No. 24. — Wood and grass ; spring three miles off.
16-75. No. 25. — Wood and grass ; no water.

7-25. Sabadras Spring. — Wood, water, and grass.
13'25. No. 26. — Wood ; no grass or water.

8' 75. Spring. — Wood, water, and grass.

1-25. No. 27. — Wood, water, and grass.

3-17. No. 28. — Wood, water, and grass.

1*25. No. 29. — Wood, water, and grass.

3-11. No. 30. — Wood, water, and grass.

2-25. No. 31. — East bank of Colorado River ; wood.

No. 32. — West bank ; water and Grass abundant.

XXII. — Captain WHIPPLE'S Route from Albuquerque, New
Mexico, to San Pedro, California.

[Distances iu Miles and hundred ths of a mile.]
Miles.

Albuquerque to —

0-88. Atrisco. — Permanent running water.
12'16. Isleta. — Permanent running water.
22-78. Rio Puerco.— Water in holes.
18-30. Rio Rita. — Permanent running water.
13-17. Covera. — „ „

14-66. Hay Camp.— „ „

17-71. Sierra Madre.— No Water.

8-06. Agua Frio.— Permanent running water.
17-49 Inscription Rock. — El Moro. Permanent springs.
14'23. Ojo del Pescado. — Permanent springs.
11'74. Zuni. — Permanent running water.

8-83. Arch Spring. — Permanent spring.

10-77 —No water.

19-69. Jacob's Well. — Permanent water-hole.

7'04. Navajo Spring. — Permanent Springs.
12-13. Willow Creek.— Rio de la Jara. Water in holes.
10-87. Rio Puerco of the West.— Water in holes.
11-59. Lithodendron Creek. — Permanent running water.
11-99. Colorado Chiquito. — „ „

14-42.

8-63.

4-Q4

* "*• » » )•>

1-35. —

232 ALBUQUERQUE TO SAN PEDRO.

Miles.

4'90. Colorado Chiquito. — Permanent running water.
10-99. „ —

15*88. „ „ „

4-44.

1-51.

29-72. Colinino (Cosnino) Caves. — Permanent water-holes.

11-81. Near San Francisco Spring. — No water; water 4 miles from

camp.
10-46. Leroux's Spring. — Permanent water.

8-23 —No water.

6-17 — No water.

8'54. New Year's Spring. — Permanent spring.

9-77. Lava Creek. — Water in hole.

9-89. Cedar Creek.— Water in holes.
13-26. Partridge Creek. — Water in holes.

3-89.
15-52.

0-87. Picacho Creek.— „

7*45 — No water.

8-69. Turkey Creek. — Permanent running water.

5-71. Pueblo Creek.— „

6*67. „ „ water in holes.

5-98.

5-80. Can on Creek. — „ „

12-16.

0-30. „ —Water in holes.

11-29.

9-64. Cactus Pass. — Permanent running water.

7-97. White Cliff Creek. — Permanent running water.
11'60. Big Horn Springs. — Permanent spring.
12'83. Mouth of Canon Creek. — Permanent running water.

9-21. "Big Sandy" Creek.—

4-35.

6-21.

4-08. „ „ „

6-10.

5'56. , „ „ „

4-64. Mouth of Big Sandy Creek. — Permanent running water as far
as the Colorado River.

6-52. Rio Santa Maria (Bill Williams Creek).

8'97 „

6-85.

7-22.

3-90.

8-69.

4-33. Mouth of Rio Santa Maria.

4-74. On Colorado River.

ALBUQUERQUE TO SAN PEDRO. 233

Miles.

5'02. On Colorado River.
9'06.

11-39.

29-87.

1-02. Mojave Villages.
9-46. Crossing of the Colorado River.
0-33. On Colorado River.
2-78, On Colorado River.

29-71 — The road, on leaving the Colorado, runs up over a

gravelly ridge to a barren niesa, and descends the bed of
the Mojave 4 or 5 miles above its mouth, and at 9£ miles it
passes springs near the point where the road turns around
the western base of a mountain. There is no water at the
camp, but grass in an arroyo.

9'00. Pai-Ute-Creek. — This is a fine stream, with good water and
grass.

13'00. Arroyo. — Grass and wood ; water is found by digging.
7"00. Fine Spring. — Good water and grass. The wagon-road passes
around the hills, but an Indian trail leads through the
ravine where the spring is.

19'00. Marl Spring. — This is a small but constant spring ; excellent
grass, and greasewood for fuel.

30-00. Lake. — The road follows a ridge for some distance, then
descends to an arroyo, and in a few miles emerges into a
sandy plain, where there is the dry bed of a lake, which is
firm, and makes a smooth, good road. The camp is at
some marshy pools of water. Good grass, and greasewood
for fuel.

12' 00. Mojave River. — Road passes through a valley of drifted sand,
and at the camp strikes the river, which is here a beautiful
stream of fresh water, 10 to 12 feet wide and a foot deep,
with a hard, gravelly bottom. Grass in the hills near.

13'00. Mojave River. — The road ascends the river, the banks of
which are covered with fine grass and mesquite wood.
Good camps along here.

20-00. Mojave River. — The road leads up the river for a short dis
tance, when it turns into an arroyo, and ascends to a low
mesa, and continues along the border of a level prairie
covered with fine bunch-grass. It then enters the river
bottom again, which is here several miles wide, and well
wooded. Grass good.

20'00. Mojave River. — Six miles from camp, the road strikes the
Mormon road, and crosses the stream near a Mormon
camping-place. The trail runs along the river, which gets
larger and has more timber on its bank as it is ascended.
Good grass, wood, and water.

22-00. Mojave River. — A short distance from camp the valley con-

234 FORT YUM A TO BENICIA.

Miles.

tracts, but the road is good. It leaves the valley and
crosses a gravelly ridge, but enters it again. Good grass,
wood, and water.

15-00. Mojave River. — Road continues along the right bank of the
river, in a south-west course, and crosses the river at camp.
Good wood, water, and grass.

29-50. Cajou Creek. — The road leaves the river at the crossing, and
runs toward a break in the San Bernadino Mountains ; it
ascends a sharp hill and enters a cedar thicket ; it then
ascends to the summit of the Cajou Pass ; thence over a
spur of the mountains into an arroyo or creek in a ravine ;
thence along the dry channel of the Cajou Creek for two
miles, where the water begins to run, and from thence the
road is rough to camp.

7'00. Cajou Creek. — Road continues along the creek to camp, and
is rough. Wood, water, and grass at camp.

20-00. Cocomouga's Ranch. — On a pretty stream of running water.
The road runs for six miles down the Cajou Creek, along
its steep and rocky bed. It is here a good-sized stream.
Captain Whipple's road here leaves the San Bernadino
road, and turns to the west along the base of the mountains
towards Los Angeles ; it then crosses a prairie, and strikes
the ranch of Cocomouga. Wood, water, and grass.

24-00. Town of El Monte. — The road runs upon the northern border
of a basin which is watered by many small streams, and is
settled. The camp on the pretty stream of San Gabriel,
where there is a good camping-place.

14-25. City of Los Angelos. — The road passes the Mission of San
Gabriel, then enters a ravine among hills and broken
ground ; it then descends and crosses the river which
waters the valley, and enters the city. There is a good
camp upon the point of a ridge on the left bank of the river.

23-00. San Pedro.— Good camp.

XXIII. — From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California.
From Lientenant R. S. WILLIAMSON'S Report,

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.

Fort Yuma, on Rio Colorado, to —
6-61. Pilot Knob.
5'06. Algodones.
11-18. Cook's Wells.
21-11. Alamo Mocho.
14-16. Little Laguna.

FORT YUMA TO BENICIA. 235

Miles.

10-29. BigLaguna.

12-92. Forks of Road.— The left-hand road leads to Sail Diego, 139'94

miles ; the right-hand to San Francisco.
17-62. Salt Creek.

28-94. Water in the Desert.— Below point of rocks.
12-60. Cohuilla Village.
15-82. Deep Well.
10-62. Hot Spring.

7-36. East base of San Gorgonio Pass.
18-29. Summit of Pass.
27" 10. San Bernadino. — Mormon town.
17-60. Sycamore Grove.
14-00. Qui-qual-mun-go Ranch.
26-60. San Gabriel River. — At crossing.

6*70. Mission of San Gabriel.

9-00. Los Angelos.
10-20. Cahuengo Ranch. — At the crossing of a branch of Los Angelos

River.
10-70. Mission of San Fernando.

5'90. Summit of San Fernando Pass.

7'15. Santa Clara River, south-east fork.
15*80. Summit of Coast Range. — In San Francisquito Pass.
18-00. Eastern base of Sierra Nevada.

6-70. Summit of Tejon Pass.
13-10. Depot Camp in the Tejon.
3 TOO. Kern River. — At the crossing.
10-80. Depot Camp on Pose Creek, or " 0-co-ya."
24-30. White Creek.
14-90. More's Creek.

5-10. Tule River.

22-00. Deep Creek. — Deep Creek is the first of four creeks, crossed
by the wagon-road into which the " Pi-pi-yu-na " divides
itself after emerging from the Sierra. These streams are
commonly known as the " Four Creeks."

0-29. Cameron Creek.— The second of the " Four Creeks."

3-30. Kah-wee-ya River. — The third and principal one of the "Four
Creeks."

0-89. St. John's Creek.— The last of the " Four Creeks." At the

crossing.

28-13. Pool's Ferry.— On King's River.
J2-32. Slough of King's River.

25*73. Fort Miller. — On San Joaquin River, in the foot-hills of the
Sierra Nevada.

9-40. Cottonwood Creek.

7'72. Fresno River.

12-15. Chowchilla River.— Sometimes known as "Big Mariposa."
10-39. Mariposa River.

236 FORT BRIDGER TO CAMP FLOYD.

Miles.

6-03. Bear Creek.
18-33. Merced River.
18-87. Davis' Ferry — Tuolumne River.
28'85. Grayson. — A ferry on the San Joaquin River.
27*54. Elk Horn. — The distance is by the wagon-road, and is
circuitous.

6'90. Summit of Livermore Pass.

7'20. Egress from Livermore Pass.

40-42. Martinez.— On the Straits of Carquives, opposite Benicia,
California.

Total distance from Fort Yuma to Benicia, 800.45 miles.

XXIV. — A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd,
opened by Captain J. H. SIMPSON, U.S.A., in 1858.

Miles.

Fort Bridger to —

6. Branch of Black's Fork. — Wood water, and grass.
7^. Cedar on Bluffs of Muddy. — Grass and wood all the way up the

ravine from the Muddy, and water at intervals.
65. Last water in ravine after leaving the Muddy. — Wood, water,

and grass.

5|. East Branch of Sulphur Creek. — Wood, water, and grass. Junc
tion of Fort Supply Road.

I*. Middle Branch of Sulphur Creek. — Sage, water, and grass.
3. West Branch of Sulphur Creek. — Willow, water, and grass;

spring a mile below.
5^. East Branch of Bear River.— Wood; water, and grass.

{. Middle Branch of Bear River.— Wood, water, and grass.
2|. Main Branch of Bear River. — Wood, water, and grass.
9|. First Camp on White Clay Creek. — Wood, water, and grass.
5\. White Clay Creek.— Wood, water, and grass.
15. White Clay Creek. — Good camps all along the valley of White

Clay Creek.

f. Commencement of Canon. — Wood, water, and grass.
£. White Clay Creek.— Good camps all along the valley of White

Clay Creek to the end of the lower Canon.
12. Weber River. — Wood, water, and grass.
6. Parley's Park Road. — Wood, water, and grass. Pass over the

divide.

3f . Silver Creek. — Willows, water, and grass.
6. Timpanogos Creek. — Wood, water, and grass. Cross over the

divide.
1. Commencement of Canon. — Wood, water, and grass.

FORT TIIORNE TO FORT YUMA. 237

Miles.

24£. Cascade in Canon. — Good camps at short intervals all along

Timpanogos Canon.

4.}. Mouth of Canon. — Wood and water.
6-}. Battle Creek Settlement. — Purchase forage.
3£. American Fork Settlement.— Purchase forage.

3. Lehi (town). — Purchase forage. Grass near.
2f . Bridge over Jordan. — Grass and water ; wood in the hills 1 5

miles distant.
14. Camp Floyd. — Wood, water, and grass.

Total distance from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, 155 miles.

NOTE.— -Captain Simpson says this wagon-route is far superior to
the old one in respect to the grade, wood, water, and grass, and in
distance about the same.

XXV. — From Fort Thome, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma,
California.

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.

Fort Thorne, N. M., to—

14-30 Water Holes. — One mile west of hole in rock. Water uncer
tain ; no wood.
9-19. Mule Creek. — Water at all seasons a little up the creek; wood

plenty.
12-00. Cook's Spring. — Water sufficient for camping; mesquite

bushes on the hills.

19-50. Rio Mimbres. — Water and wood abundant.
16-30. Ojo de la Vaca.— Water and wood.
12'00. Spring — Constant small streams two miles up the cation ;

water at the road uncertain.
44-40. Rancho. — Pond of brackish water one mile to the right, four

miles before reaching here.
13'90. Rio St. Simon. — Constant water a few miles up, and mesquite

wood.
18'40. Pass in the Mountains. — Water on the left about two miles

after entering the Pass.
6'40. Arroyo. — Wood one mile up ; water uncertain ; small stream

crossing the road 1$ miles from last camp.
26' 30. Nugent's Spring. — Large Spring. — Excellent water one mile

south, at Playa St. Domingo.
17-20. Canon.— To the left of the road.— Water li miles up the

canon, two miles from the road.
17-00. Rio San Pedro. — Water and wood abundant.
16-30. San Pedro. — Water abundant ; wood distant.

238 FORT THORNE TO FORT YUMA.

Miles.

20'80. Cieneqnilla. — Water and wood abundant.
7'30. Along Cienequilla. — Water and wood abundant; road rough.

21-80. Mission of San Xavier. — Large mesquite, and water plenty in

Santa Cruz River.

8*00. Tucson. — Village on Santa Cruz River. Tucson is the last
green spot on the Santa Cruz River. The best camping-
ground is two miles beyond the village, where the valley
widens, and good grass and water are abundant.
7'20. Mud Holes. — The road passes over arroyas, but is rather
level.

65*00. Agua Hermal. — Road passes over a desert section, and is
hard and level. Water is found in most seasons, except in
early summer, in natural reservoirs on an isolated mountain
about midway, called " Picapo ;" poor water, and tall coarse
grass at the mud-holes. Road here strikes the Rio Gila.

15-10. Los Pimos. — Road follows the river bottom. Lagoon of bad
water near camp, Grass good ; plenty of cottonwood and
mesquite.

13-20. Los Maricopas. — Road takes the river bottom, and passes
through cultivated fields ; soil and grass good. The Indian
village is on a gravelly hill. The road is good.

40*00. El Tezotal. — The road leaves the river and crosses the desert.
No water between this and the last camp at the Maricopas'
village. Road is good. The calita abounds here, and the
mules are fond of it.

10-50. Pega del Rio. — Road runs in the river bottom, and is level.

Rincon de Vega. — Road runs in the river bottom, and is
level. Good grass.

10"50. Mai Pais. — Road continues near the river, but over low gravel-
hills and through a short canon of deep sand.
9'50. Mil Flores. — Pass over a very steep precipice to an elevated
plateau, thence over gravel-hills 4g miles to camp, where
there is excellent grass and wood.

13'70. Santado. — Road keeps the river bottom until within four
miles of camp, when it turns over the plateau. Good grass.

1 6'70. Las Lonas. — Road follows the river bottom. Scattered bunch-
grass on the hills.

11-40. Vegas. — Road follows along the river bottom. Grass poor.

16-80. Metate. — Road runs along at the foot of a rugged mountain.
Excellent grass at the camp.

14*70. El Horral. — Road ascends to the plateau, which it follows for
seven miles over a level country, then descends over
gravelly hills to the river. Camp on the river bank near
the desert. Wood plenty.

20-80. Los Algodones. — Road runs along at the foot of the hills or
spurs of the desert ; small rugged hills, vegetation, dwarf
mesquit, cacti, etc. Good grass at camp.

LARAMIE CROSSING TO FORT BRIDGER. 239

Miles.

7-40. Fort Yuma, on the Rio Colorado.

Total distance from Port Thome, N.M., to Fort Yuma, 571
miles.

XXVI. — Lieutenant BRYAN'S Route from the Laramie Cross
ing of the South Platte to Fort Bridger, via Bridgers
Pass.

Miles.

Lararnie crossing to —
14. Bryan's Crossing. — Road runs on the south side of the Platte.

Good grass and water.

12. First Crossing of Pole Creek. — Pole Creek is a rapid stream,
sandy bed, 15 feet wide, and 2 feet deep. Good grass on the
creek, and wood three miles off on the bluffs.
37. Second Crossing of Pole Creek. — Road runs along the creek.

Good grass and good camps at any point. Good road.
17i. Third Crossing of Pole Creek. — Good camp. Wood on the

bluffs.
20^. Fourth Crossing of Pole Creek. — Creek dry for three miles.

Good grass.
20£. Bluffs covered with dead pines. — Creek is crossed several times.

Road runs over a rough broken country. Good grass.
14^. Road from Fort Laramie to New Mexico. — Road rather rough.

The valley opens out into a wide plain. Plenty of grass.
10£. On Pole Creek. — Good road ; good camp.

20. On Pole Creek. — Road crosses several ravines, most of which

can be avoided by keeping on the bluffs ; the valley is narrow

Grass is not very good.
17s. Cheyenne Pass. — Road passes over a rolling country. Good

grass ; willows for fuel. Military post established here.
4£. Summit of Black Hills. — Source of Pole Creek. Grass poor.
I'O^. East Fork of Laramie River. — Good camp.
16. West Fork of Laramie River. — Good camp. Cherokee trail

comes in here.

14. Cooper's Creek. — Wood and grass.
lO.j. East Fork of Medicine Bow Creek. — Wood and grass as far as

Pass Creek.

21. Small Creek.
6. Birch Creek.

5 j. West Fork of Medicine Bow Creek.
2. Flint's Creek.

240 LARAMIE CROSSING TO FORT BRIDGER.

Miles.

3. Elm Creek.

7. Battle snake Creek.
5. Pass Creek.

14±. North Fork of the Platte. — Good road over high prairie. Five
miles before reaching the river, the Cherokee trail turns to
the left, and crosses three miles above. Good camps on the
river.

3£. First Crossing of Sage Creek. — Good road. Grass not plenty.
10±. Second Crossing of Sage Creek. — Road runs through Sage
Creek Valley ; hilly, broken, and sterile country, covered with
sage-brush. Grass not abundant. Cherokee trail leaves
three miles back.

4. Third Crossing of Sage Creek. — Eoad continues through sage

brush. Grass gets better. •

3. Fourth Crossing of Sage Creek. — Good grass, wood, and water.
9. Bridger's Pass. — Road runs over a hilly country, crossing

several small branches, with a little grass upon their banks ;
country covered with sage.

3£. Muddy Creek. — The valley of the "Muddy" is deep and narrow
at first, and afterward opens out. The crossings of this creek
were either bridged or paved by the troops in 1858. But
little grass in this valley.

20^. Near Muddy Creek. — Very little grass ; poor camp.

16i. Bridger's Fork of the Muddy Creek.— The road for thirteen
miles runs over a rolling country, then over a rough, broken
country,. with deep ravines. No water in this fork in a dry
season ; small springs of brackish water near the crossing.
Grass poor.

4. Small Spring. — Water bad ; grass poor.

2i. Small Spring. — In the bluff. Water bad ; grass poor.
1. Haystack. — Clay Butte. Spring in the dry bed of the creek.

Bunch-grass.
5|. Small Springs. — In bluffs on the right of the road. Grass poor

and water bad.
7^. Springs. — There is a fine spring at the foot of a steep hill on the

south side of the road. Very little grass ; rushes on the

creek.

3^. South Fork of Bitter Creek. — Good grass and water.
14f . On Bitter Creek. — Country hilly, and intersected with deep

ravines. South Fork is a fine stream of good water.
16. Sulphur Springs. — Road very hilly, crossing many deep ravines.

Grass arid sage plenty.
9. Bitter Creek Crossing. — No grass at the crossing. Water

bitter when the creek is down, but tolerable in high water.

Road rough, with numerous ravines.
18^. North Fork of Bitter Creek. — Cherokee trail enters near the

crossing. Road good, but little grass except in spots. Sage

for fuel.

DENVER CITY TO FORT BRIDGER. 241

Miles.

4. Bluffs. — Springs of good water in the elevated bluffs on the
right of the road in the cottonwood groves. Grass good and
abundant at the base of the bluffs.

11|. Green River. — Road is very rough and hilly, and winds along
the valley of the creek. Good camp on the river, with plenty
of wood and grass.

15|. Crossing of Black's Fork. — Road runs up through Rabbit Hol
low, which is steep and sandy; it then passes over rolling
prairie to Black's Fork. Bunch-grass on the hills, and good
camp at the crossing.
llj. Fort Laramie Road. — Rolling country; good road through sage

bushes. Good camps along the creek.
5|. Ham's Fork. — Good camp on either side of the creek. United

States bridge here ; good road.

£. Black's Fork crossing. — Good ford except in high water, when
the right-hand road on the north bank of the creek is gene
rally traveled.
14^. Fourth Crossing of Black's Fork. — Good road; fine camp;

plenty of wood, water, and grass.

2f . Fifth Crossing of Black's Fork. — Good camp ; good road.
2£. Smith's Fork. — Good carnp; good road,
llf. Fort Bridger. — Good camp near; good road.

Total distance from the Laramie Crossing of the South Platte
to Fort Bridger, 520^ miles. By the Fort Laramie road the
distance is 569 miles.

XXVII. — Wagon-route from Denver City, at the Mouth of,
Cheiry Creek, to Fort Bridger, Utah.

Miles.

Denver City to — •

5. Vasquez Fork. — Good road, and fine camp.

19^. Thompson's Fork. — Road crosses three creeks about five miles
apart, is good, and the camp is well supplied with water and
grass, but wood is scarce.
16^. Bent's Fork — Road crosses two streams about five miles apart;

no wood on the first. Good camp.

26. Cashe la Poudre River. — Excellent road crossing two streams
at ten and twenty- three miles from the last camp ; good camps
on both. Cashe la Poudre is a fine large stream which issues
from the mountains near the road, and is difficult to cross in
high water. It has a firm bottom. Good camps along this
stream, with plenty of wood and grass.
R

242 DENVER CITY TO FORT BRIDGER.

Miles.

16. Beaver Creek. — Road turns to the left and enters the hills, as

cending very gradually between two lines of bluffs, and is
good except in wet weather. Good camp.

19. Small Branch. — Road crosses Beaver Creek three times, afford
ing good camps. Road is hilly, but not very rough, passing
for a portion of the distance through a timbered region. Elk
and mountain sheep are abundant in this section. The camp
is near the summit of the divide. Grass short.

17|. Tributary of Laramie River. — Good road on the divide. Grass
and water plenty, but wood not abundant.

ISg. Tributary of Laramie River. — Road passes Laramie Fork three

miles from the last camp. Good camp.

21. Tributary of Laramie River. — Road crosses a small creek at 14
miles from the last camp. Fine camp.

17. Medicine Bow Creek. — At twelve miles the road crosses Sulphur

Spring Creek, and at the West Fork of the Laramie, Lieute
nant Bryan's road enters. At ten miles from the last camp
there are two roads — one, Bryan's, leading north of the Medi
cine Bow Butte, and the other to the south of it. The former
is the best. Good camp.

17^. Prairie Creek. — Fine Camp. A portion of the road is very
rough. It crosses several small branches, upon which good
camps may be had. Fine game section, with bear, elk, etc., in
great abundance.

12^. North Fork of the Platte. — Excellent camp. Leaving Bryan's
road, four miles back, taking the left, which is altogether the
best of the two. The crossing of the Platte is good except in
high water, when it is very rapid. A flat-boat was left here
by Colonel Loring's command in 1858.

12|. Clear Creek. — Sage for fuel; grass short.

23. Dry Creek. — Road leaves Bryan's trail to Bridger's Pass, and
bears to the right, passing over a smooth country covered
with sage, and poorly watered ; passes a pond of milky water
at thirteen miles. There is water in Dry Creek, except in a
very dry season. Two miles from the creek, on the old trail,
there is a fine spring on the left of the road, which runs
down into the road, and here is the best grass after leaving
the Platte, with plenty of fuel.

10.^. Muddy Creek. — Road leaves the old Cherokee trail at Dry Creek,
and bears to the left. Good camp for a limited number of
animals; fine grass along near the bank of the creek. Bad
crossing. Buffalo seen here.

19|. Lake. — Old trail enters near this camp. Road passes a brackish
spring four miles back. The road may be shortened by bear
ing to the left, and skirting the hills for about six miles before
reaching the lake. The water in the lake is not good, but
drinkable, and will be abundant, except in the very dryest

NEBRASKA CITY TO FORT KEARNEY. 243

Mi!es.

part of the summer. Grass is good on the hills. The road
from Dry Creek is shorter than the old road by 30 miles.
24*. Red Lakes.— Road is good, but traverses a very dry and sterile
region. The water is not good in the lakes, but drinkable, and
may go dry in midsummer. Grass tolerable.

22. Seminoes Spring. — After passing the flats at the Red Lakes, the
road is smooth and good, and there is a good camp at Semi-
noes Spring.

12.J. Bitter Creek. — New road to the left, cutting off ten or twelve
miles. Good camp ; water a little saline, but drinkable.

25. Sulphur Spring. — Road runs along the valley of Bitter Creek,
where there is but little grass until reaching camp. Animals
should be driven across the creek into the hills, where the
best grass is found.

17. Green River. — Road leaves Bitter Creek at Sulphur spring, and
passes near some high bluffs, where there are small springs
and good grass. Excellent camp at Green River. From here
the road runs over the same track as Bryan's road to Fort
Bridger. From all the information I have been able to obtain
regarding Lieutenant Bryan's road from Sage Creek through
Bridger's Pass, and thence down the Muddy Creek, I am in
clined to believe that the road we traveled is much the best.
It is said that Lieutenant Bryan's route from Bridger's Pass
to Green River has a scarcity of grass. The water is brackish,
and the supply limited, and may fail altogether in a dry sea
son. The road passes through deep valleys and canons,
crossing muddy creeks and deep ravines. The creeks have
been bridged, and the ravines cut down so as to form a prac
ticable road ; but freshets will probably occur in the spring,
which will destroy a great deal of the work, and may render
the road impassable. — Lieutenant Duane's Notes.
The other road is for the greater part of the distance smooth,
and has a sufficiency of grass in places, and may become
scarce in a very dry season.

XXVIIL— From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort
Kearney.

Nebraska City, on the Missouri River, is a point from which a
large amount of the supplies for the army in Utah are sent, and one
of the contractors— Mr. Alexander Majors, speaks of this route in
the following terms : "The military road from Fort Leavenworth
crosses very many tributaries of the Kansas River, the Soldier, the
Grasshopper, etc., etc., which are at all times difficult of passage.

244 CAMP FLOYD TO FORT UNION.

There are no bridges, or but few, and those of but little service.
From Nebraska City to Fort Kearney, which is a fixed point for the
junction of all roads passing up the Platte, we have but one stream
of any moment to cross. That one is Salt Creek, a stream which is
now paved at a shallow ford with solid rock.

" There is no other stream which, even in a high freshet, would
stop a train a single day. Again, upon this route we have an abun
dance of good grazing every foot of the way to Fort Kearney. The
route from Nebraska City is about 100 miles shorter to Fort Kear
ney than that from Fort Leavenworth, the former being less than
200 miles, and the latter about 300 miles."

From Nebraska City to Salt Creek is . . .40 miles.
„ Salt Creek to Elm Creek is . . . . 60 „
„ Elm Creek to Fort Kearney is . . .100 „

Upon the entire route there is an abundance of wood, water, and
grass, and camping-places frequent.

XXIX. — From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New
Mexico. By Colonel W. W. LORING, U.S.A.

Miles.

Camp Floyd to —

23. Goshen. — The road runs through Cedar Valley ; is level and
good for 11 miles, to where the road forks. The left runs
near the lake, and has good camps upon it. Thence to a fine
spring, where there is a good camp, is 3 miles. Grass con
tinues good to the camp near Goshen. Wood, water, and
grass abundant.

14. Salt Creek. — Hoad runs over a mountain in direct course to a
fine spring branch, which runs into Salt Creek at 3-£ miles,
where is a good camp ; thence through a meadow to a small
branch 3 miles, striking the old Mormon road again opposite
a mud fort, where there is a fine spring and good camp ;
thence into the valley of Salt Creek, where there are good
camps.

18. Pleasant Creek. — Near the last camp the road forks, one run
ning to Nephi, a small Mormon village, the other to Salt
Creek Canon, which is the one to be taken. The road runs
up the baiion 5 miles ; thence up its small right-hand fork to
a spring, 3 miles ; thence to camp. Good camps can be found
anywhere after crossing Salt Creek, with abundance of wood,
water, and grass.

19}. Willow Creek. — Road at 65 miles passes a fine spring ; half a
mile farther is another spring, where the road forks. Take the

CAMP FLOYD TO FORT UNION. 245

Miles.

right through a meadow ; it is 3 or 4 miles shorter. To the
crossing is 3 miles ; thence to the main road again 3 miles ;
to the village of Ephraim a miles. Good camp.

12. Lediniquint Creek. — At 6 miles pass Manti ; thence to Salt
and Sulphur Springs is 3 miles. Good camp with a fine
spring, wood, and grass.

15. Lediniquint Creek. — Road passes over a rugged country for 4
miles, to a creek ; thence 1 mile it crosses another creek ;
thence *2i miles up the creek, where there is a good camp.
The road improves, and for 8 or 9 miles camps can be found
by leaving the creek a short distance. The creek on which
the camp is is muddy, with narrow channel.

18. Onapah Creek, or Salt Creek. — Road is good over a barren
country to the pointed red hills near the entrance to Wasatch
Pass, 7 miles. From the red hills across Salt Creek 3 times
in 4 miles ; grass fair at 2nd crossing ; very good at 3rd cross
ing, and a good camp. Road rough for 3 miles after leaving
the creek. The road then enters a fine valley, with plenty of
blue and bunch grass. Road is level to within a mile of the
camp. Wood, water, and grass abundant at camp.

7.}. Head of Branch of Salt Creek. — Road runs over a ridge at 2
miles, thence 1 mile to a small brarich. Grass abundant.
Road runs along the branch 3 miles ; in places very rough,
with some sand ; ascends the entire distance, and the camp
is very elevated. Good spring at camp.

5£. Salt Creek. — Road passes over a ridge 2£ miles to a spring.
Good camp at this spring. Colonel Loring worked the road
at this place. It crosses the creek 6 times within 5f miles.
Good camp, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.

G.^. Silver Creek. — Road traverses a rolling section, is good, passes
several springs, where there are good camps, and crosses
several trails which lead from California to New Mexico.
172. Media Creek. — At 2 miles the road passes the dividing ridge
between the waters of Salt Lake and Green River ; thence 2
miles' descent to Shipley Creek, where is a good camp. For
about a mile the road is rough, but then descends into an
open plain, where the road is good. The ground is rough
about the camp, and covered with sage and grease wood. Two
miles up the creek, near the canon, is some grass, but it is
not abundant here.

19JJ-. St. Raphael Creek. — Road passes a rolling section for 5 miles;
thence l£ mile to Garamboyer Creek, where there is a good
camp ; thence, with the exception of a short distance, the
road is good to the Knobs, 9 miles, when it is broken for
44 miles. Good camp.

11|. San Matio Creek. — For 3 miles the road is over a rolling sec
tion, with steep hills, to a creek, where is a good camp ;

246 CAMP FLOYD TO FORT UNION.

Miles.

thence for 3 miles along the creek, soft soil and heavy road;
thence 5 miles to another creek, some grass, but not plenty ;
thence to camp the road is rough in places. Good camp.

14J. In the Hills. — Road runs over a rolling country 2.^ miles to
San Marcos, or Tanoje Creek, where there is good grass and
water, with sage. Two miles farther over a gravelly road,
then a good plain road for 9f miles to camp. Good wood,
water, and grass.

23. Spring. — Road for the first 10 miles is rocky, when it strikes
a spring, where there is a good camp ; thence 2 miles to
water in a tank, not permanent ; thence the road is on a
ridge for 6 miles, and is good ; thence 3 miles the road is
sandy. The spring at camp is large, with plenty of wood,
but the grass is scarce. Down the creek it is more abun
dant.

18. Green River. — For 5 miles the road is sandy ; thence the road
is good for the remainder of the distance to camp, where
there is plenty of wood, water, and grass.

13. 13-Mile Spring. — Green River can be forded at ordinary stages.
Road runs among several arroyas for a few miles, and is
then straight and good to camp. Good grass a mile to the
east of camp.

An Arroya. — Road runs between two rocky buttes, and strikes
the Mormon trail, which leaves Green River at the same
place, but is very tortuous. Water not permanent here ;
good grass three-fourths of a mile from camp.

20j. Cottonwood Creek. — Road passes over a broken country to a
water-hole, 9 miles ; grass abundant ; thence there is sand
in places ; crosses several arroyas. Camp is between two
mountains. Water, wood, and grass abundant.

12. Grand River. — Road is over a rolling country ; in places light

sand and heavy for wagons. Good camp.

13. Grand River. — Road is rolling and sandy. The Mormon road

runs nearer the mountains, and Colonel Loring thinks it is
better than the one he traveled. Good camp.

16f. l;j mile from Grand River. — The first three miles is level, then
the road passes over a very elevated ridge, and descends
into the valley. Grand River runs through a canon, and
cannot be reached with the animals. Road in places sandy.
Camp good.

9j. Grand River. — At 2 miles strike Salt Creek, where the Mormon
road passes up a dry creek toward Gray Mountain. Road
skirts the mountains along Grand River, and is rough in
places, passing over abrupt hills. Good camp.

16f. Grand River. — Road runs over a level and firm section, with
good camps at any point along the river. Cross the Mormon
and other trails. Good ford at the crossing, except in high
water. Good camp.

CAMP FLOYD TO FORT UNION. 247

Miles.

18|. On an Arroya — Road runs over an undulating surface, cross
ing several small streams issuing from Elk Mountain, affording
good camps at almost any place, and strikes Marcy's and Gun-
nison's trails. Good camp.

15£. Grand River. — Rolling country ; high ridges with abrupt slopes
for Q\ miles; thence into a plain for 7j miles to Double
Creek. Good camps.

1:2. Oncompagre River. — Good ford, except in high water. At 6
miles cross a dry creek ; thence 3 miles over a high, level,
and firm road ; strike a large trail ; descend a hill with gen
tle slope into the Valley of Oncompagre, where there are
fine camps. Winter resort for Ute Indians.

14^. Oncompagre River. — Road runs along the valley of the On
compagre, is good, and camp may be found at any point,
with plenty of wood, water, and grass.

13. Cedar Creek. — Road leaves the Oncompagre, and bears to the
east up Cedar Creek to the gap in the mountain, 6 miles ;
thence up the valley of Cedar Creek to camp, where are wood,
water, and grass. The Gap is the first opening in the moun
tains above the mouth of the Oncompagre.

Sf. Devil's Creek. — Road runs to the head of Cedar Creek, over
the divide, into the valley of Devil's Creek, and is rough, with
a steep descent. Camp is near a narrow canon, called Devil's
Gate, with high perpendicular bluffs. Good camp.
3. North Fork of Devil's Creek. — Road very rocky, and worked
by Colonel Loring. Marcy's and Gunnison's trails pass here.
Good camp.

7 4 . Cebola Creek. — Road passes over abrupt hills covered with pine.
Good Camp.

5 £. Ruidos Creek. — Road rough, with abrupt ascents and descents.
Fine creek 5 feet wide, and good camp.

13. Grand River. — Road rather smooth for the first 3 miles, then
rough and rocky, crossing several creeks, and descending into
the valley of the Grand or Eagle-tail River, where is a good
Camp. Plenty of brook trout in all the streams in this
section.

14*-. GrandRiver. — Road crosses theriver three times; bottom wide;
grass and wood abundant. Cross several beautiful streams,
upon which are good camps. Some sand, and rough places,
but generally good road. Game and brook trout abundant in
this region. Indians resort to this section a great deal.

18. Cutebetope Creek. — At about 5 miles the Cutebetope Creek
enters, forming at the confluence a beautiful valley, which
the road crosses, and strikes the creek near the Point of
Rocks, where the valley is only 40 yards wide, but after
passing the Point it opens again. The course of the creek is
nearly north. Good camps.

248 CAMP FLOYD TO FORT UNION.

Miles.

20. Spring near Beaver Creek. — Road crosses several small creeks,
where are several good camping-places. Camp good.

16|. Sawatch Creek. — Road runs over a very rough and mountain
ous section for 14 miles, to the summit of the Rocky Moun
tains, Chochetope Pass; thence it descends to camp, where
grass, wood, and water are abundant.

21 £. Sawatch Creek. — Road rough and rocky in places ; strikes the
main Sawatch Creek at 9.3 miles ; crosses numerous small
branches, where are grass, wood, and good water in abun
dance.

25£. Carnero Creek. — Road for 7 miles, to Sawatch Buttes, is good ;
thence 1£ mile to the last crossing of the Sawatch, where is
a good camping-place. Good camp at Camero Creek.
3J. Garita Creek. — Good road and good camp.

1C 2. Rio Grande. — Road level and good. Good camps along the river

at almost any point.
6. Rio Grande. — Good road and camp.

17a. Fort Garland, Hay Camp. — Road continues down the river,
and is good. For 6 miles there is timber ; but, after this,
willow is the only wood to camp. Good road. Hay is cut at
this place for Forts Massachusetts and Garland.
16. Culebra Creek.— At 4* miles cross Trinchera Creek, where is
a good camp. Road rather sandy. Good camps any where
on Culebra Creek.

24|. Latos Creek. — Road tolerable to Costilla Creek, lOf miles.

Camp good.

14. Ascequia, near Lama Creek. — Road crosses several small
branches. At 9£ miles strike Red River. Grass at camp
good, but not abundant.

19f. Meadow, near Indian Pueblo. — At 6 miles the road crosses the
San Christobal ; thence over another ridge into the valley of
the Rio Hondo. Camp 2 miles from Taos.
2. Taos, New Mexico. — Good road. At Taos are several stores,

where goods of all descriptions can be had at fair prices.
13. Taos Creek Canon. — Road passes through the settlement, where
grain and vegetables can be obtained. It then enters the Taos
Canon at 3 miles, and crosses the Caiiou Creek frequently to
camp. Good camp.

29. Gaudelapepita. — At 5 miles the road ascends to the dividing
ridge, and is tolerable ; thence in 4 miles cross the mountain,
and reach a fine spring branch, where is a fine camp. Thence
the road passes short ridges for 9 miles to Black Lake. Good
camp.

Fort Union. — Road follows Coyote Canon 3 miles ; thence 1
mile to Mexican settlement ; thence 19 i miles over the prairie
to the fort.

GUAYMAS TO TUBAC. 249

Colonel Loving came .over the route from Camp Floyd to Fort
Union with a large train of wagons. He, however, found the road
in many places upon the mountains very rough, and it will require
working before it will be suitable for general travel with loaded
wagons. It is an excellent route for summer travel with pack-trains,
and is well supplied with the requisites for encamping.

From Fort Union to Fort Garland, the road passes through a
settled country, where supplies of grain and vegetables can, at all
times, be purchased at reasonable prices ; and there are small towns
met with during almost every day's march, where small shops sup
ply such articles of merchandise as the traveler needs.

XXX. — Wagon-route from Guaymas, Province of Sonora,
Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona. From Captain STONE'S
Journal.

Miles.

Guaymas to —

IQi. Kancho del Cavallo. — Good wood, water, and grass.
9. Rancho de la Noche Buena. — Good wood and grass, but no

water for animals in May and June. ,

19f. Rancho de la Cuneguinta. — Good wood, water, and grass the

year round ; water in tanks and wells.

15-J. Eancho del Posito. — Good wood and grass the year round ;
water for men at all times, and for animals except in the
months of May and June.

8. Rancho de la Palma. — Wood, water, and grass at all times.
16|. Rancho de la Paza. — Good wood, water, and grass at all seasons.
16. Hermosillo. — This is a town of J 0,000 inhabitants, on Sonora

River, where all supplies may be procured.
13. Hacienda de Alamita. — Plenty of running water, wood, grass,

and grain.
8. Hacienda de la Labor. — Plenty of running water, grass, and

grain.

28. Rancho de Tabique. — Roughest part of the road, but not diffi-
for wagons. Wood, water, and grass. From Hermosillo to
this place there is water at short intervals along the road.
36. Rancho Querebabi. — Wood and grass ; water in tanks.

12. Barajita. — Small mining village. Bad water; good wood and

grass.

13. Santa Ana. — Village on the River San Ignacio. Plenty of wood,

water, and grass.
12. La Magdalena. — Thriving town where all supplies can be

procured.

5. San Ignacio. — Village on the river. Good wood, water, a.nd
grass.

250 FORT HOPE, FRASER RIVER, TO FORT COLVILLE.

Miles.

6£. Imuris. — Village on the river. Wood, water, and grass.
11 5. Los Alisos Rancho. — Wood, water, and grass.

3*. La Casita. — Wood, water, and grass.

3i. Cibuta. — Wood, water, and grass.
Hi. Agua Zarca. — Wood, water, and grass.
23}. Rancho cle las Calabasas. — Wood, water, and grass.

13. Tubac. — Silver mines at this place.

Total distance from Guaymas to Tubac, 295 miles.

NOTE. — During ths months of July, August, and September, water
will be found at almost any part of the road from La Casita to Her-
mosillo. There is no lack of wood or grass on any part of the road
from Guaymas to the frontier. The only difficulty in encamping at
almost any point upon the road is that of obtaining water in the
dry season, i. e., from February to the first of July. The remarks for
each place apply to the most unfavorable seasons.

XXXI. — From Fort Hope, Fraser River, to Fort Colville on
the Columbia. According to Lieutenant PALMER, E.E.
(Contributed by Mr. EAVENSTEIN, F.E.G.S.).

(Fort Hope is situated under 49° 22' N. lat., 121° 25' W. Jong.
85 miles above New Westminster, the capital of British Columbia
Communication between the two places is kept up by steamers
during the season).

Miles.

From Fort Hope (140 feet above the level of the sea) to —
15. Mason's Mountain (1890 feet). — Road ascends the level and
lightly timbered Coquahalla valley. Steep and difficult
ascent, between two spurs of the Mason's Range, begins after
9 miles. At camp wood and water plentiful, but no grass.
19. Camp du Chevreuil (3,640 feet).— After 1^ hours' travelling
reach summit of pass by a steep and rocky zig-zag trail, in
many places encumbered with mud. (Mason's Pass is im
practicable for seven months in the year. Snow falls to the
depth of 25 to 30 feet, and travelling before the 1st of June
or after the 1st of October is dangerous). After a steep and
dangerous descent of 1,100 feet on western slope reach a
muddy bottom, densely wooded, follow trail through forest
for 5 miles, ford a tributary of the Coquahalla, climb steep
slope on opposite bank to camp, near mountain Stuchd-a-
choire. Wood and water abundant ; grass sufficient for
horses. Deer scarce, but ptarmigans abound.
15. Camp on bend of Tulameen (3,260 feet). — Strike head-waters
of Tulameen 3 miles from last camp, and 800 feet below

FORT HOPE, FRASER RIVER, TO FORT COLVILLE. 251

Miles.

summit of range, follow its left bank for 12 miles ford the
river to camp. Road easy. Wood and water plentiful. Very
little grass.

12. Camp on Tulameen Range (about 4,*200 feet). — Leave river and
ascend for 4 miles through a steep and narrow defile to an
undulating plateau, slightly timbered, and covered with
yellow furze and heath. High grass near the numerous ponds
and marshes. Camp near small circular lake. Wood in
plenty ; little grass.

12. Campement des Femmes (2,170 feet). — Descend to Tulameen,
and ford opposite camp. Country lightly timbered and grassy
on uplands, heavily timbered in valleys ; at camp, wood, water
and grass plentiful and good.

59. Big Bend of Similkameen (775 feet). — Along left bank of Tula
meen and Similkameen. Fine prairie country. Timber near
river and at foot of mountains. Water and excellent bunch-
grass plentiful.

18. Osoyoos Lake (630 feet). — Leave Similkameen and cross divide

to Osoyoos lake ; follow its western shore to where it con
tracts and is fordable. Brush and grass plentiful ; timber
scarce. Water-fowl abound.

10. Divide, Colville Range (2,390 feet).— Ford lake and follow its
eastern shore for 5 miles, then along small stream up divide.
Road good, ascent gradual. Wood, water, and grass abundant.

19. Siyakin Forks (1,570 feet).— Summit of divide, 2850 feet.

Descend to head waters of Siyakiu, follow its left bank, and
camp at Forks with N-whoy-al-pit-kwu (Colville River). Road
easy. Slopes gradual. Excellent bunch-grass, wood and
water abundant.

56. Grande Prairie (1,360 feet). — Along Colville River, which has to
be forded at several places. Park-like country. First-rate
camping places abundant. Wood, water and grass plentiful.
Wild fowl.

47. On the Columbia, opposite Fort Colville (48° 38' N., 118° 4
W., of Greenwich, Altitude 830 feet). — Continue down narrow
valley of the Colville, which has to be forded repeatedly.
Dense forests of fir cover mountain slopes. Water and grass
generally abundant.

(An excellent waggon-road has been constructed by the American
Government between Colville and Walla-Walla. Distance about
235 miles. The road as far as the Spokan (60 miles), leads through
a magnificent forest of Pines. It then crosses the Columbian Desert
to the Snake River, about 10 miles from Walla- Walla. In this
desert the soil is loose sand, and there is a very scarce growth of
bunch-grass. Water is found at long intervals only).

THE END.

August, 1882.

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10

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