SB
369
T32
UC-NRLF
O
UJ
CITRUS AND TROPICAL
FRUIT TREES
a /monograph on
PLANTING, CULTURE AND CARE
These trees shall be my books,
And in their barks my thoughts I '11 character."
At You Like It. Hi, 3.
THE R. M. TEAGUE NURSERIES
SAN DIMAS, CALIFORNIA, U.S. A.
LOS ANGELES COUNTY
'Cltfl'OS AND TROPICAL FRUITS
FOR HOME PLANTING
For those desiring a combination of citrus and tropical
fruit trees that will furnish the home with these fruits all
the year, we are offering the following collection:
CITRUS FRUITS ONLY
Collection No. 1. Three citrus trees 5/8 to 24 >nch
caliper, consisting of 1 Washington Naval, 1 Valencia Late
and 1 Eureka Lemon.
All for $3.50 f. o. b., San Dimas, Cal.
Collection No. 2. Five citrus trees 5/8 to % inch
caliper, consisting of 1 Washington Naval, 1 Valencia Late,
I Eureka Lemon, I Marsh Seedless Pomelo, and 1 Willow
Leaved Mandarin.
AH for $5.75 f. o. b., San Dimas, Cal.
Collection No. 3. Seven citrus trees 5/8 to % inch
caliper, excepting Tangerines and Satsumas which caliper
|/2 to 5/8: 1 Washington Navel, 1 Valencia Late, 1 Dancy
Tangerine, I Satsuma, 1 Tangelo, 1 Marsh Seedless Pomelo
and 1 Eureka Lemon.
All for $8.00 f. o. b. San Dimas, Cal.
Collection No. 4. Seven new and rare varieties of
citrus trees consisting of the following: 1 Golden Nugget
Navel, 1 Lue Gim Gong Orange, 1 Algerian Tangerine, I
Algerian Mandarin, 1 Sampson Tangelo, 1 Citron of Com-
merce and 1 Citrus Limonium (Dwarf Lemon).
All for $15.00 f. o.b. San Dimas, Cal.
TROPICAL FRUITS ONLY
Collection No. 5. Three Avocados and 1 Feijoa, all
2 to 3 ft. stock as follows: Avocados — 1 Fuerta, 1 Puebla
and 1 Northrup; 1 Feijoa choiceana.
All for $12.50 f. o. b. San Dimas, Cal.
Collection No. 6. Five Avocados and 2 Feijoas, all 2
to 3 feet stock, as follows: Avocados — 1 Fuerta, 1 Puebla,
1 Spinks, I Sharpless and 1 Dickinson; Feijoas — 1 Choice-
ana and 1 Superba.
All for $21.00 f. o. b. San Dimas, Cal.
Collection No. 7. Five Avocados, 2 Feijoas, 1 Sapota
and 1 Cherimoya as follows: Avocados — i Puebla, 1 Sharp-
less, 1 Dickinson, 1 Northrup and 1 Ganter; Feijoas — 2
Choiceana, 1 White Sapota and 1 Cherimoya.
All for $24.00 f. o. b. San Dimas, Cal.
CITRUS AND TROPICAL COMBINATIONS
Collection No. 8. Three citrus trees, 2 Avocados and
1 Feijoa as follows: Citrus — 1 Washington Navel, 1 Valen-
cia Late and 1 Eureka Lemon; Avocados 1 Fuerte and 1
Puebla and 1 Feijoa choiceana.
All for $12.50 f. o. b. San Dimas, Cal.
Collection No. 9. Five citrus trees and 3 Avocados as
follows: Citrus — 1 Washington Navel, 1 Valencia Late, 1
Willow Leaved Mandarin, I Marsh Seedless Pomelo and 1
Eureka Lemon; Avocados — 1 Fuerte, 1 Sharpless and 1
Linda.
AH for $16.00 f. o. b. San Dimas, Cal.
Collection No. 10. Seven citrus trees, 4 Avocados and
2 Feijoas as follows: Citrus 1 Washington Navel, 1 Val-
encia Late, 1 Dancy Tangerine, 1 Willow Leaved Mandarin,
1 Tangelo, I Marsh Seedless Pomelo and 1 Eureka Lemon;
Avocados — 1 Fuerta, 1 Puebla, 1 Sharpless and I Dickin-
son; Feijoas — 2 Choiceana.
All for $26.00 f. o. b. San Dimas, Cal.
Note: Those desiring a different selection of oranges
may substitute any of the following: Navelencia, Thomson
Improved Navel, Mediterranean Sweet, St. Michael or
Homosassa; also the Northrup or Ganter Avocados may be
substituted in the Avocado list.
Terms: Cash with order.
A CALIFORNIA FRUIT
ON the re-verse side of this sheet is pic-
tured the Washington Navel Orange
in all its glory. No one product has
done more toward increasing the
fame of California horticulturally than this
orange. At the same time California must be
given credit for its part in making this orange so
•well known throughout the world, for in no
other orange-growing section does it reach the
high state of perfection, both in quality and
production, that it does here.
Its superb eating qualities are unexcelled.
Possessing a flavor peculiarly its own, with
abundance of juice, fine grain, freedom from
rag and being absolutely seedless, together with
its good shape, smooth, high-colored peel and
good keeping qualities, it is truly the peer of all
oranges.
A
RINCIPLES AND PRACTICES OF CIT-
RUS AND TROPICAL FRUIT CUL-
TURE FROM THE NURSERY TREE TO
THE FULL BEARING ORCHARD, TO-
GETHER WITH TIMELY SUGGES-
TIONS ON HARVESTING, PACKING AND MAR-
KETING, BASED ON THIRTY-THREE YEARS'
EXPERIENCE IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.
FOUNDED IN 1889 BY R. M. TEAGUE
TELEGRAPH, TELEPHONE, POSTOFFICE AND EXPRESS ADDRESS
THE R. M. TEAGUE NURSERIES
SAN DIMAS, CALIFORNIA.
Copyrighted in 1921 by R. M. Teague.
PRICE 50 CENTS
PRESERVATION
COPY ADDED
ORIGINAL TO BE
RETAINED
TEAGUE QUALITY BUD AND ROOT-SELECTED TREES.
IF there is one thing more than another that has tended to improve quality and
bearing capacity of fruit trees, it is the selection of buds from record bearing
trees in the propagation of citrus and tropical fruit plants. It is a subject that
has been exhaustively studied by the 'Department of Agriculture and Experiment
Stations, and of late years has found practical operation in the Fruit Growers
Supply Company (a subsidiary corporation of the California Fruit Exchange), which,
after years of close observation, has now sufficient record trees under its observation to
form a reliable source of supply for selected citrus buds. In addition the Avocado
Association is pursuing a similar line of action. Having for years been a consistent
advocate of bud, selection, and being keenly alive to the work already accomplished,
we are growing'- ^IJ- our '-attfu^r'&Od'. Avocado trees only from certified selected buds
obtaind from th^Fruit Growers^ S.uppLy Company and the California Avocado Asso-
ciation, thereby; ilTslipftg quality ia&l quantity bearing trees to all our patrons.
But this of itself will hardly insure a profitable tree — the bud must have a good
foundation; in other words the root stock and its proper development must be right.
Here we put in force the elimination of the unfit. Every seedling tree that exhibits a
weak or faulty root development is discarded; and when we discard fully forty per cent
of our seedling trees every year because of faulty devlopment the reader will appreciate
that we practice root selection as well as bud selection. These two basic principles
rigidly enforced give us the nucleus or foundation for growing good trees. Then comes
intelligent care — proper culture and training, so that the tree will be of good form and
habit, capable of functioning along lines that will prove a pleasure and a source of
profit to their owners. That our efforts have been appreciated by planters in general,
is evidenced by the ever-increasing demand for Teague trees, not only in California,
but throughout the citrus growing sections of the world : Old Mexico, South America,
Cuba, Porto Rico, the Hawaiian Islands, the Philippines, Australia, South Africa,
China, Japan and India.
Realizing the importance of some of the more desirable tropical fruits, we have
lately added the growing of such varieties as give promise of having a commercial future
in California horticulture, and their propagation is being carried out in the same pains-
taking manner that has made Teague citrus trees so well and favorably known.
We have endeavored to make the articles on care and culture explicit,
so that those just engaging in this line of work will understand the procedure
necessary to properly care for their trees. As stated elsewhere, the varying conditions
both as to climate and soil, make it impossible to lay down any hard and fast rule, and
the planter must rely on his own judgment, in cases where these two conditions make
cultural changes necessary.
CITRUS AND SUB-TROPICAL FRUITS
THEIR CULTURE, CARE AND MARKETING
IN presenting this treatise on Citrus and Sub-
Tropical fruits, it is our aim to give those inter-
ested in the culture of these fruits, such infor-
mation and advice as our experience and obser-
vation, covering a great many years of active work
along these lines, will warrant.
While space in a book of this kind necessitates be-
ing brief, we shall endeavor to touch on the essential
points necessary to give the novice an insight into the
habits, requirements, culture and care of those vari-
eties we enumerate to enable him to at least start
right in laying the foundation for a successful com-
mercial orchard, or in growing the few trees neces-
sary to supply the home with those fruits peculiar to
our California climate.
It is with pardonable pride that we point to the
many acres of profitable citrus orchards planted to
Teague trees during the past thirty-three years, and
we want to here thank our many friends and patrons,
whose continued trade throughout all these years has
not only enabled us to keep increasing our business,
but has spurred us on to increased efforts in the pro-
duction of better and more prolific stock. Starting in
business we adopted the slogan, "When better trees
are grown, Teague will grow them," and to that end
we have and shall continue to put forth every effort
to grow the best trees that experience and money can
produce.
To within the last year we have devoted our entire
time and attention to the growing of citrus fruit
trees, but with the advent of some of the more prom-
ising sub-tropical fruits into the commercial fruit-
growing industry of California, and realizing that
there was a wide field for the propagation of these
fruits if handled along the same lines that have
proven so successful with us in citrus propagation, we
decided to take up the growing of such varieties as in
our judgment give promise of possessing commercial
importance.
Knowing that for the successful propagation of the
sub-tropical fruit trees, we must have land practically
free from frost where the most tender plants can
be grown in the open the year around, we have re-
cently purchased a ninety-acre tract in La Habra
Heights, northwest of the town of La Habra and
just across the county line in Los Angeles County.
This tract of land is particularly well located for
nursery purposes, being partially surrounded by low
hills, which practically isolates it from the valley
proper, removes the danger of damage from heavy
winds, and being an entirely new sub-division reduces
the danger of scale infestation to a minimum.
The elevation is sufficient to make it practically
immune to frost damage to even the most tender-
plant, and the soil, a deep rich loam, washed in from
the adjacent hills in ages past, insures a perfect and
most vigorous root system which is really the founda-
tion, of all successful plant life. With this location
we know we can produce and deliver to our cus-
tomers the most perfect specimens of both citrus and
sub-tropical trees.
While we shall in the future grow most of our
stock in this new location, the many years of success-
ful dealings and association with planters and dealers
from the different citrus growing sections of the
world, having been transacted from our San Dimas
office, we deem it advisable to maintain our head-
quarters here, where we are perfectly equipped to
handle and pack stock in the best possible condition
for local or long distance shipment and where we are
always glad to meet those interested in horticulture,
show our stock and explain our methods of growing
and selling trees.
526043
'?»**•
4 Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
A Fruit Growers Supply Company Washington Navel performance record tree
CITRUS FRUITS
It seems unnecessary to go into detail regarding
the early introduction of citrus fruits in California;
however, for the purpose of enlightening those not
familiar with early events in the citrus history of the
state, it will probably not be out of place to recite
some of the more important occurrences connected
with the industry that have added so much to Cali-
fornia's horticultural wealth.
It is said that California owes the introduction of
horticulture to the Mission Fathers who, first of all,
planted fruit-bearing trees on the Pacific Coast.
Coming north from Lower California in 1769,
they established their first Mission at San Diego and
worked northward, locating Missions wherever con-
ditions warranted. In all they established twenty-one
Missions, and it is said that at all but three of these
gardens and orchards were planted. These plantings
ranged from just a few trees to several hundred and
consisted chiefly of oranges, figs, grapes and olives.
It is interesting to note that all of these fruits are
now important industries in California horticulture,
although a hundred years elapsed after they were
first introduced before they attained commercial im-
portance.
It is said that the most extensive orange orchard of
early planting was at the San Gabriel Mission, in
this county, planted by "Father" Thomas Sanchez
in the year 1804. Other small plantings were made
in and around Los Angeles, the most notable of which
was planted by William Wolf skill in what is now the
heart of Los Angeles city, in the year 1841, and con-
sisted of two acres. This acreage was added to from
time to time, but as late as 1862 it is recorded that
there were but 25,000 orange trees in the entire state,
and fully half of these were in the Wolfskill orchards.
Other sections of the state were also credited- with
some of the early plantings, all of which were grown
from seed. These sections ranged from San Diego on
the south to as far north as Shasta County.
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
A record bearing Valencia Late orange tree: a source of our selected bud supply.
It was not, however, until about 1870 that exten-
sive acreages began to be planted at Riverside and
elsewhere, when citrus culture gave evidence of be-
coming an important commercial enterprise.
The real foundation for California supremacy in
citrus culture was laid by the introduction of the two
historical Washington Navel orange trees, from
which sprang the vast acreage of Navel orchards that
now grace the landscape of California.
This variety was introduced into the United States
by the Department of Agriculture in 1870 and propa-
gated in the orange house at Washington, D. C.
Two of these trees were sent to Mrs. L. C* Tibbets,
of Riverside, in 1873. These two trees are now the
most celebrated fruit trees in Riverside and are
guarded with the most tender care by its citizens. In
1913 one was transplanted to the grounds of the
Mission Inn by the late Colonel Roosevelt during
one of his visits to Southern California, the other
still stands at the head of Magnolia avenue, where
it enjoys the distinction of an enclosure with a tablet
telling of its accomplishments.
While the Washingon Navel played a most im-
portant part in California citrus culture, it remained
for the Valencia Late to complete the fame of Cali-
fornia as an all-the-year shipper of citrus fruits.
Ripening just as the shipment of Navels is about over,
its fine keeping qualities enables us to continue ship-
ments over a period of four or five months, or until
the first of the new Navel crop is ready for market.
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
Thus we are able to give the consumer fresh oranges
every month in the year. These two varieties are the
only ones grown on an extensive scale.
The Ruby Blood, Paper Rind St. Michael, Medi-
terranean Sweet, Joppa, and some of the Mandarin
types are grown to a limited extent commercially,
while the Seedling orange of the early days is fast be-
coming a thing of the past, many of the older or-
Referring to the superiority of the foreign lemon
at that time he says: "Years ago my attention was
drawn toward the apparent truth that California
could not produce a good lemon, for the San Fran-
cisco market quoted foreign lemons at $5.00 and
$6.00 per box, domestic, at $1.00 and $2.00, and
even less. These last were always overgrown Seed-
ling lemons, which should have left the trees months
A Eureka lemon performance tree from which Fruit Growers Supply Company buds are cut
chards having been either taken out or budded over
to Navels or Valencies, and no Seedling orchards are
being planted.
Lemon growing did not become an important factor
in California horticulture until some years after the
orange. While there were scattering trees here and
there, and even some small orchards, it was not until
the early nineties that the industry began to assume
importance.
- In referring to a report issued by the State Board
of Agriculture in 1891, we find an article by G. W.
Garcelon of Riverside, entitled "Fifteen Years with
-the Lemon," in which he describes his efforts to work
out the lemon problem so that California lemons
could successfully compete with the foreign importa-
tion.
before. But they grew larger, made fewer to the
box, and made — yes, made those who used them,
profane over their efforts to extract any juice from
them."
Mr. Garcelon's efforts were confined principally
to working out methods for holding over the winter
lemons so that they could be marketed in the sum-
mer, which, at that time, was the only season of the
year lemons were used.
Thanks to the efforts of Mr. Garcelon and others,
whose faith in California lemons prompted them to
spend their time and money in studying out successful
methods of growing and handling this fruit, we' are
now able to give the consumer a better lemon than
the imported ones.
On account of lemons being more tender than
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
oranges they are not so generallly planted, but the
planting on the higher and more protected lands of
the five southern counties, viz., San Diego, Orange,
Los Angeles, Ventura and Santa Barbara, has as-
sumed quite extensive proportions. There has also
been able to successfully compete with the Florida
fruit in the Eastern markets. This is due to two
reasons; first, sufficient care has not been exercised in
selecting types of fruit particularly adapted to our
soil and climatic conditions ; and secondly, we have
A fine type of bud supply Marsh Seedless pomelo tree.
been considerable lemon planting in the protected
sections along the east side of the San Joaquin Valley.
The present moneyed value of California's annual
lemon crop is about $12,000,000.00, so it will be seen
that lemon culture has become an important factor
in our horticultural outputs.
Pomelos (Grapefruit) are not being planted as ex-
tensively as either oranges or lemons. While they do
extremely well and are prolific bearers, we have not
always insisted on trying to market our fruit before
it is thoroughly mature, thus giving the consumer the
impression that we cannot grow a good pomelo.
With the advent of bud selection and state laws
prohibiting the shipment of immature fruit we hope
to put a superior quality of pomelos on the market,
and thus demonstrate that we can supply the con-
sumer with fruit equal to the best. Pomelos will
grow wherever oranges do well, but reach a higher
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
state of perfection in the interior valleys, where the
day and night temperature during the summer months
is more nearly uniform.
Another feature favorable to pomelo culture is the
fact that they, in common with oranges, are being
more generally used throughout the entire year, thus
increasing their consumption to a great extent. This
is particularly favorable for California, as our
pomelos are at their best during the summer months
when the Florida fruit is off the market.
With the improvement in types, and by holding
our fruit until it is mature, we can establish a reputa-
tion for quality that will not only increase the con-
sumption in the United States, but may lead to a
large export trade to foreign countries where pomelos
are at present very little known.
It will be of interest to note the increase of citrus
products in this state. Beginning with the year 1883,
when there were shipped out of Southern California
150 carloads of oranges; in 1886 the output had in-
creased to 1,000 carloads; in 1890-'91 there were
shipped 3920 carloads, and in 1898-'99 a total of
15,006 carloads were sent out. Of this amount
1.500 cars were lemons
Ten years later, for the season 1908-'09, there
were 6,196 cars of lemons and 31,895 cars of oranges,
a total of 38,091 cars from Southern California and
2.501 cars of oranges and lemons from points north
of the Tehachapi:
For 1920 the total production of oranges was
18,700,000 boxes, and of lemons 4,500,000 boxes;
the combined value of which was $54,125,000.
The present annual income from California's
citrus crop is something like $50,000,000.00, and the
value of the orchards themselves is approximately
$400,000,000.00.
GROWING TEAGUE QUALITY TREES
It will no doubt be of interest to those engaged in
citrus culture to know how we grow our nursery
trees. We feel that the buyer is entitled to know
what care and attention has been bestowed upon the
trees he is paying out good money for and on which
he expects to spend more money and time in bringing
them to a profitable bearing stage. For upon the
proper methods of budding, growing and handling of
the young trees in the nursery row, largely depends
the success or failure of the planter to realize a prof-
itable orchard (it being assumed that he is going to
do his part in caring for the orchard), we are sure
that every planter wants to feel assured that the
nurseryman has left nothing undone that might affect
the future growth and productiveness of his orchard.
With that idea in view, we shall briefly describe the
essentials in the production of Teague quality trees.
As far as possible we grow our own seedling stock
and for this purpose select the best sour orange seed
available. In order to insure hardy plants, we sow
our seed in the open and allow it to come up and
make its first season's growth under natural condi-
tions. In transplanting the young seedlings to the
nursery row, we select only those showing the most
vigor and hardiness, the remainder being discarded.
Every care is exercised in digging to secure all the
fibrous roots possible and extreme precaution is used
in protecting the same from the sun and air while
moving them from the seed-bed to the nursery row.
We plant all of our stock fifteen inches apart in the
row and the rows four feet apart. This allows plenty
of room for irrigating, cultivating and hoeing and
insures a strong, vigorous tree. Only such pruning
is done as is necessary to keep the trunk of the young
tree free from sprouts and side branches up from the
surface of the ground some 6 or 8 inches.
The seedlings are allowed to make two summer's
growth in the nursery row before they are budded.
This gives us a seedling with sufficient strength and
vigor to force a good thrifty bud. In budding, we
aim to get the bud from six to eight inches above
the surface of the ground, which allows plenty of
room so that with ordinary care in planting there is
no danger of getting the bud set below the level of
the soil — a condition that is almost sure to be fatal
to all varieties of budded citrus trees, especially if
planted on heavy land.
The budding is done in the fall and spring, Octo-
ber and November being the two falls months in
which it is done and April and May the usual time
for spring budding. The advantage of fall budding
is that they heel in, but do not make any growth until
spring, when they are ready to start with the first
flow of sap and are usually a foot or more high before
it is possible to begin the spring budding.
BUD SELECTION
One of the most important parts in the growing of
good nursery stock, and one which we have always
given very close attention, is the matter of selecting
good buds and we point with pardonable pride to the
many profitable orchards in different parts of Cali-
fornia grown from trees of our own raising. Realiz-
ing that in order to produce trees yielding good crops
of high grade fruit, it is necessary to select buds
from the best and most prolific types of the varieties
desired, we have always exercised every precaution to
get only the best.
With the advent of what is known as pedigreed or
selected buds, that is the selection of buds taken from
trees having a record for quality and quantity pro-
ductiveness, we have decided to use only this kind
of buds. For the purpose of enabling the reader to
realize the importance of this feature, we will give
a brief history of the events leading up to the estab-
lishment of the bud selection department of the Fruit
Growers' Supply Company.
Going back to the time when the orchard industry
was in its infancy, when what few orchards there
were consisted almost entirely of seedling orange
trees, grown from seed selected at random from trees
producing desirable types of fruit, little attention was
paid to any particular selection of seed or plants and
the grower who made any effort to select seed from
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
any particular type of orange was considered to be
wasting his time. Just so the fruit was edible was
all that was considered necessary. About the time the
importance of the Washington Navel orange became
established, there was also introduced into the state
a type of Navel orange known as the Australian
Navel, a variety or type somewhat similar, but in
every way inferior, to the Washington Navel, its
learned to avoid selecting budwood where they was
any danger of getting the Australian type.
In spite of care, however, the nurserymen were
still receiving complaints from planters that a certain
percentage of so-called Australian Navels showed up
in the stock purchased from them, and on examina-
tion it was found that certain trees, while not having
all the traits of the Australian type, were decidedly
Precocious rows of one-year-old Washington Navels, showing blooming and jruiting qualities.
chief objection being that the tree was a shy bearer.
Both types were seedless, or nearly so, and the only
method of reproduction was by budding.
The Washington Navel being so much superior to
the old seedling varieties, the demand for trees stimu-
lated the growing of citrus nursery stock, which up to
that time had been mostly supplied by Florida nurs-
erymen. Later many of the bearing seedling orchards
were budded over to Navels, some of these seedling
trees being 25 or 30 years of age. The demand for
budwood taxed the young Navel orchards to the limit
with the result that budwood was often taken from
the Australian Navels, either through ignorance or
indifference on the part of the person gathering buds.
In this way the earlier orchards planted became badly
mixed, which necessitated re-budding or top working
over a good many trees, hence the nurserymen soon
of an inferior quality, which lead to the conclusion
that possibly some buds were from sucker wood or
water sprouts and that this caused the trees to be of
inferior quality from the parent tree, for it was noted
that these suckers or water sprouts, if allowed to ma-
ture in the tree, would always produce a rough, in-
ferior fruit the first year or two they bore, although
it usually improved as the growth advanced and be-
came less vigorous.
This was no doubt the cause of the trouble, for it
was noticed that the nurseryman, who was careful in
the selection of buds, had less complaint about bad
trees, although none escaped completely. No one at
that time attributed the trouble to anything but care-
less selection of bud wood, either from sucker wood
or trees of the Australian type, hence the nurseryman
who personally selected his budwood from trees
10
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
known to be all right usually felt perfectly safe in
taking budwood later, either from young orchards
planted from his former selection or even from stock
in the nursery row.
As time went on and citrus fruits attained larger
prominence commercially it was seen that the yield
was not what it should be. Growers found that
there was always a certain percentage of trees that
failed to produce a normal crop, or that produced
rough inferior fruit, thus cutting down their average
on the whole orchard both in quantity and quality.
For a number of years this condition was attributed
to either poor nursery stock, improper irrigation, cul-
tivation or fertilization ; but after a more careful in-
vestigation it was learned that there were certain
trees in nearly every orchard that produced heavy
crops of good quality fruit year after year, while
others always bore light crops and still others that
produced fruit of an inferior quality. Through the as-
sistance of the Department of Agriculture a thorough
investigation of the causes for this condition was
made which showed that not only the Washington
Navels, but all varieties of citrus fruits sported "off
types" of inferior quality fruit and that often trees
producing perfect fruit might have one limb or
branch that produced either a poor quality of fruit or
very little. This condition would continue year after
year so that bud wood taken from that particular
branch would produce fruit of like quality and quan-
tity. Often these sport branches varied in growth and
foliage. Whatever the variation, whether in fruit or
foliage, buds taken from such wood are likely to pro-
duce trees of likely quality. This bud variation is
particularly noticeable in Washington Navels and
Valencia Late oranges and Eureka lemons, although
it no doubt exists to a certain extent in all varieties
of citrus fruit. Mr. A. D. Shamel, of the Depart-
ment of Agriculture, in charge of fruit improvement
investigations since 1909, says: "It may manifest it-
self in the habit of growth of the trees or their method
of branching, the size, form, texture or the color of
the foliage, or the form, color, texture, abundance, or
scarcity of the fruit. Occasionally one tree grown
from a single bud will develop several distinct strains
of fruit. Frequently a single fruit or a branch bear-
ing several fruits will be found on a tree having
characteristics distinct from the fiuit of the typical
strain borne by the tree as a whole. Minor varia-
tions on fruit characteristics are very frequent oc-
currences."
From the knowlege thus gained in these investiga-
tions it is easy to see why nurserymen were continual-
ly receiving complaints about shy bearing trees and
off types of fruit. To the casual observer it might
appear strange that the deterioration was not greater,
but it must be borne in mind that not all variations
are downward or to inferior types. The investigations
have not recorded the variations which showed im-
provement over the parent type and possibly it is not
as great as the downward. In all these investigations
the idea has been to eliminate the poorer strains and
show best how to avoid future deteriorations, hence
it is the duty of the nurserymen to select and propa-
gate from those variations that give promise of being
improvements over original types. The Thomson
Improved, Golden Nugget and Buckeye Navels and
Original Washington Navel tree in Riverside
Navelencia are all sports or variations from the
Washington Navel that gave promise of being im-
proved in some particular over the original type. So
in all varieties of citrus fruit, the perfect strains of
today show a decided improvement over the original
due to the nurseryman's effort to produce better and
more perfect types of fruit, notwithstanding the fact
that in the past they have been working more or less
in the dark with reference to these bud variations.
In recent years it has been the practice to select buds
from those orchards that produced good crops of fruit
as a whole and where there were no trees of the off
or so-called Australian type ; or, if there were any,, to
so mark them, so as to escape their use for purposes
of propagation. In this way it was considered quite
safe to take bud wood from such orchards even
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
11
One Million seed bed stock grown in the open nine months from planting.
though it was at the season of the year when there
was no fruit on the trees.
From these facts it will be seen that it is hazardous
to cut budwood from any tree without fruit to show
the type and quality, and it is much more desirable,
in fact it is the practice of the leading nurserymen,
to select buds from trees or orchards having a per-
formance record covering a period of from two to
four or more years showing the trees to be consistent
and regular bearers. In this way bud variation is
overcome and the risk of planters getting trees that
may prove untrue to type is reduced to a minimum.
In keeping performance records the orchard trees
are each numbered, usually by the use of three sets
of figures. The orchard is first divided into blocks
of five or ten acres in each block, and numbered block
one, two, three, etc. The rows are then numbered
usually commencing at the irrigation head, for ex-
ample, the eighth tree in the fourth row of block one
would be numbered 1-4-8.
The fruit from each tree is picked and placed in
separate boxes and a record made of the number of
full boxes and an estimate of the partly filled boxes,
or, if it is desired to be more exact, there are methods
provided for weighing the fruit from each tree. By
following this method for two or more years and
comparing the production for each year, it can easily
be determined which trees are profitable and those
that are not. The latter trees should be worked
over by top budding from budwood selected from the
profitable producing trees.
BUDS FROM RECORD TREES
Buds selected from trees having a good perform-
ance record if taken when the fruit is still on the
tree (so as to avoid getting wood from any sporting
limbs that might be present) will produce trees show-
ing little, if any, variation from the parent tree. The
benefit to be derived from bud selection was recog-
nized by the California Fruit Growers' Exchange,
and a bud selection department was established under
the management of the Fruit Growers' Supply Com-
pany, a subsidiary corporation, to carry on the work
of selecting and selling bud wood from trees bearing
good types of fruit and having a high performance
record. These records are kept as elsewhere de-
scribed, and the work is under the supervision of com-
petent Exchange men so as to insure accuracy. The
buds are also cut by experienced men, care being ex-
ercised to see that only fruiting wood is taken from
12
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
the best trees. The buds from each tree are kept
separate and given the number of the parent tree
and they are delivered to the purchaser under that
number. We keep all of these numbers separate in
our nurseries and in delivering trees to our customers
they come under the same tree numbers, so that if a
purchaser gets trees marked "Tree No. 3002," he can
go to the Fruit Growers' Supply Company's records
and ascertain just what the parent tree record of
production was.
do not suffer either from lack of water or cultivation.
Trees that have been stunted for water usually show
a lack of fibre roots, a condition that is not desirable
in young stock and one that tends to make them much
harder to start when transplanted. We take up our
trees either balled or open roots, according to the
wishes of our customers. Before starting to dig we
cut back the tops to within about six or eight inches
of the trunk. Too much foliage cannot be left or it
will cause a greater evaporation than the roots can
A block of one hundred thousand one-year-old budded citrus trees.
TRAINING THE YOUNG BUDS
All of our trees are firmly staked as soon as the
buds begin to grow and before the new growth has
hardened, so that they can be tied up perfectly
straight. The training of the young buds is given
very close attention so as to insure straight stock.
Every few days men go over the nursery taking off
any suckers or sprouts that may appear and tying up
such new growth as has been made since the preced-
ing trip. When the trees have reached a heighth of
thirty or more inches and the wood is well rounded
out, they are topped at a uniform height of thirty
inches and allowed to form a head. This tends to
make the tree fill out and get more stocky, enabling
it to withstand the wind much better. A low-headed
tree also has the advantage of shading its own trunk
from the sun's rays while it is young and tender and
susceptible to sunburn..
During all the time our trees are growing in the
nursery row we take particular pains to see that they
stand. In balling extreme care is used in cutting out
the ball so as not to disturb the root system contained
therein. As soon as the ball is cut out it is placed in
a burlap sack and firmly tied so that in handling the
soil will not be shattered. As soon as this is done
they are placed in the shade or taken to the lath house
where they are wet down and heeled in wet shavings
until wanted by the planter. We advise our cus-
tomers to let us hold balled stock in the lath house
for a few days after balling in order to give it a
chance to recover from the shock of digging. This
also gives the roots a chance to heel over and the
tree is in condition to start right off growing as soon
as set out in the orchard. This is especially advisable
in late summer planting.
In taking up open root trees, it is necessary to use
even more precaution than with balled ones. The
soil is well irrigated before hand, so that all the fibre
roots possible may be saved. By careful trenching on
one side and cutting the tap root, then forcing the
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
13
spade down on the opposite side, the tree is pried loose
and the earth is shaken off the roots. As they are
taken out the roots are covered with a wet cloth or
burlap to protect them from the sun, and placed at the
end of the rows where they are loaded in wagons
for delivery to local customers, or taken to the pack-
ing house to be packed in moss and boxes for ship-
ment. The roots on trees taken up in this manner
are dipped in a mixture of earth and water of about
the consistency of paint before they are packed in
boxes or delivered to customers. This will cling to
the roots and thoroughly protect them from wind and
location where the danger of damaging frosts is
slight.
Citrus trees, especially lemons, should not be plant-
ed where the winter temperature reaches a minimum
of 26 degrees or lower. Trees after reaching the age
of four to six years will stand a temperature consid-
erably lower than this without serious injury, but a
temperature of 26 degrees for four hours or more
will damage the fruit to the extent of reducing the
owner's income to a point where it is not profitable
to grow citrus fruits, and land in such localities had
better be used for the more hardy fruits.
Standard commercial sizes of citrus nursery trees.
Left to righl, 2 year buds caliper ; 1 — 1 inch and up ; 2 — % to 1 inch; 3— ^ to %. 1 year buds: 4 —
and up ; 5 — ^ to ^ ; 6 — % to 12.
sun. We use the best sphagnum moss obtainable for
packing and trees properly packed with it will keep
in perfect condition for several months; in fact, we
have had stock in transit for three months and it
reached its destination in fine shape, and our cus-
tomers advise us that it all grew, hence we do not
hesitate to assure those at a distance that we can pack
trees in this manner so that they will reach them in
a satisfactory condition.
SELECTING GOOD CITRUS LAND
Too much stress cannot be placed on the im-
portance of selecting a suitable location for the or-
chard. While citrus trees will grow under a variety
of conditions, it does not by any means hold that they
will bear profitable crops under all of them. Thou-
sands of dollars have been lost to planters by trying
to grow orchards where soil and weather conditions
were not favorable. To gain maximum results a
deep, well drained, soil should be selected and in a
The formation of the state is such that variations of
climate occur quite frequently within short distances,
and likewise, there are changes in character of soils
so pronounced that it quite often happens that cer-
tain lands in a locality may be well adapted for citrus
culture, while just a short distance away the soil or
climatic conditions may not be desirable for their
growth; hence, in choosing a location, be sure that
these two essentials are right. It is far better to pay
a thousand dollars an acre for desirable land than to
undertake to raise an orchard on poor land even if
given to you.
Water is the all important factor. It should not
only be plentiful but the cost should be low enough
to prevent the planter from having to stint his trees
in order to make both ends meet. The most desirable
lands being on the hill slopes or in protected valleys
along the foothills, it follows that water for irriga-
tion purposes is more expensive than for general
farming, and usually less plentiful, and people look-
14
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
ing for land for citrus planting should make sure that
the water supply is sufficient for a mature orchard.
As trees reach the bearing age they gradually require
more water in order to support a crop.
Along the coast where the climate is tempered by
the ocean breezes and occasional fogs it is estimated
that an inch of water, continuous flow, is sufficient
to properly irrigate seven or eight acres of orchard.
This is assuming that the supply can be accumulated
and taken at thirty or forty-day intervals; in other
words, a party having forty acres of land with a
water right of one inch to eight acres would be en-
local conditions and ideal lands are to be had in
some localities where water is abundant and cheap.
PREPARING THE LAND FOR ORCHARD
Having selected the location, the next important
problem is preparing for the new orchard. This is
a matter that too many orchardists do not realize
the importance of until later years when it is too late
to correct their errors. By all means have the land
in perfect condition both as to tilth and grade before
starting to plant a tree. Better postpone planting
Lath house containing ten thousand balled trees ready for shipment.
titled to five inches continuous flow, or one hundred
and fifty inches for twenty-four hours, if taken every
thirty days ; but as one hundred and fifty inches is
usually more than can be handled to advantage on
forty acres, fifty inches could be run for seventy-two
hours, or twenty-five inches for one hundred and
forty-four hours.
In the interior valleys where the temperature is
higher and the humidity less it requires an inch of
water to every three or four acres of orchard. The
annual cost of water for a mature grove varies with
local conditions, from $5.00 per acre in localities
where water is more easily obtained, to as high as
$40.00 per acres, where it has to .be lifted an exces-
sive height or carried in a long expensive ditch or
pipe system. However, we do not consider this too
expensive, provided all other conditions are ideal.
We would much prefer to pay $40.00 per acre for
water on good rich land where heavy crops are as-
sured and the danger of killing frosts is eliminated
than to run the risk of losing a crop every few years
on lands where the water was less expensive. We do
not mean by this that all good citrus lands are ex-
pensive to irrigate or that cheap water indicates poor
land. As stated above, water costs are regulated by
two or three months, or even a year, rather than
make the mistake of planting too soon.
If the land is uneven or rolling, engage a com-
petent engineer to run levels, set grade stakes and
locate the necessary pipe lines for irrigating. This
will expedite the work of grading so that no unnec-
essary dirt will have to be moved, and when finished
should lay so that every tree can be properly irrigat-
ed. On land nearly level it is often times advisable
to plow furrows and run the water before starting
to plant to be assured the grade is perfect. On lands
where heavy fills are necessary this method is essen-
tial to insure against the uneven settling of unpacked
soil in these places, as it often happens that regrading
is necessary to fill up these depressions.
Being satisfied that the grading is complete, have
the entire acreage plowed to a depth of eight or ten
inches and thoroughly pulverized. A heavy drag or
clod-smasher run over the ground will smooth it
down and facilitate the staking process. It is usually
best for those inexperienced in this work to engage a
practical tree planter to lay off their ground and plant
out the orchard. This insures straight rows and
properly planted trees.
There are several different methods of planting,
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Gal.
Ten Acre Valencia orchard, 13 years planted to Teague trees, averaging 5661S packed boxes per annum for 11 years.
and we herewith illustrate the four systems used.
The Square and Hexagonal, or Septuple, systems are
the two most commonly used. In our opinion the
Square method is the best, however, the latter can be
used to advantage in some plantings.
The Square method gives more room for working
among the trees, which is especially desirable after
the trees reach maturity. At the age of six years the
feeding roots of citrus trees planted twenty feet apart
will occupy the entire space between the rows so that
as far as space is concerned, there is no waste ground
in planting by this method. It is a mistaken idea to
plant trees too close, and in planting by the Hexa-
gonal system we would advise its use as a means of
giving the trees more room rather than to get more
trees on the ground. If it is desired to get ninety
trees per acre on the ground, which figures twenty-
two feet apart each way by the Square method, it
might be advisable to plant Hexagonal, which would
make the distance twenty-three feet and six inches
between trees, thus giving each tree an extra foot and
a half more space.
Square System. The rows are laid off equal dist-
ances apart and the trees planted the same distance
in the row, four trees forming a square. In laying
out ground by this system parallel base lines are run
on two sides of the tract. These lines must be per-
fectly straight and the same distance apart, the dist-
ance being governed by the size of the tract and the
space left between the trees. For example, in plant-
ing trees twenty feet apart on a ten-acre tract, which
is usually 660 feet square, the first base line would
be laid off on one side of the tract and ten feet in
from the property line, allowing this ten feet for a
margin or turning row; the other base line would
be run on the opposite side of the tract and the same
distance in from the property line. This would make
the two base lines 640 feet apart or just 32 twenty-
foot space.
A 660-foot wire with buttons or cloth securely
fastened every twenty feet, beginning ten feet from
the end, is used for laying out both the base lines and
the rows. When properly stretched along the first
base line, stakes are set at each button to mark where
16
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
the rows will come, the first stake being ten feet in
from property line. The second base line is run and
staked in the same manner, taking care that they are
the same distance apart at all points. This can be
done by stretching the wire from each end of the first
base line, and at right angles to it, being careful that
the first button is held exactly at the stake on the
base line each time. The button on the opposite end
of the chain will be the line for the second base line.
Mark these two points and then run the second base
line. With these two base lines run and marked, the
line is then used to mark off the rows, starting at
advantage in working between the trees the narrow
way. The number of trees to the acre is the same as
by the Square method.
Quincunx System. The ground is laid out as in
the Square system and another stake set in the center
of each square making a double set orchard. This
method is only practiced where it is desired to have
two sets of trees on the same ground with the idea of
taking out one or the other when they begin to crowd.
Hexagonal or Septuple System. In this system six
trees form a hexagon and enclose a seventh. Three
u... ...... u ........ _i- ..
U- U
U
.U.
.u
%
4
R.M.T.
Square system
either side at the first row and stretching the line so
that the last button on each end is at the base line
stake on that end. Make the line fast and proceed to
set stakes at each of the buttons between the base
lines, then move to the next stake and proceed across
the tract. If care has been used in getting the line
straight each time and the end buttons to the base
line stakes the rows will line perfectly in all direc-
tions.
Triangular or Alternate System. Ground is staked
as in Square method, except that a second line of
stakes is required one way half way between the rows
and every alternate tree is planted in this row. The
only advantage of this system is that it gives the trees
a little more room ; this is, however, offset by the dis-
••u.
—-{r !r l^--
~
..'j« ;
4
%=
4.
Triangular or alternate system
trees form an equilateral triangle. In laying out the
ground for this method of planting the simplest ar-
rangement to use is an equilateral triangle form made
of 1x3 inch material the length it is desired to set the
trees apart. Then run two base lines similar to the
Square method, excepting that they should be at right
angles to each other. This will give a straight row
across one side and one end of the tract. Only one
line is staked, the other being simply a guiding line to
keep the rows straight with the property. In staking
the one base line, first determine the distance in from
the property line it is desired to plant the first row
each way, the base line being the first row on one side
and the right angle guide line being the first row the
other way, then set the first stake one half the dis-
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cat.
17
tance it is desired to plant the trees from the junction
of these two lines. If planting twenty feet apart this
first stake should be ten feet from the junction, and
if twenty-two feet apart set the stake eleven feet in.
After this line is staked use the triangle form above
mentioned, setting one point at the first stake, the
second point on the guide line, and the third point
will indicate the third row of trees. Set stakes at the
second and third points. With these points estab-
lished the triangle can be worked either way. If
working down the guide line simply turn the form
u
-- » . . . - 1
~_ . j
-\
- _.(
(f,..
t'
"**W
'•••.i-
\u
xl-"
v'--u
\
, ... \
_'*:.s
^
\
'.
H-
*"-i»
sv
^-U
V-.L-
\
!\
*v
H
*H
if- :-
NJc
Quincunx system
over, being careful to keep points two and three at
the stakes, point one will then be facing in the op-
posite direction, set stake at number one and turn
form again with point two on the guide line and set
stakes at point two and then follow this process across
the field, thus staking three rows by using rows
two and three for guide lines the operators can work
back to the base line, but only one row can be staked
as points one and two of the form will have to be
placed at the stakes on rows two and three, but two
rows can be staked from the base line each time.
Three men will be required to operate this plan of
staking, and if care is used the trees should line per-
fectly, provided of course the land is on a uniform
grade.
If uneven or rolling land is to be staked off a line
similar to that described under the Square system can
be used, but there will have to be two sets of end
buttons, as it will be seen from the illustration that
the rows alternate, also the two parallel base lines
would have to be double staked.
After the ground is staked off in the manner de-
scribed each stake will indicate the point at which a
tree will be set. In order to preserve this location
while digging the holes a planting board is used and
the ground is double staked. For the purpose of
making its use more clearly understood we give an
illustration of the planting board.
It 1 I I
u
u
R.n-T
Hexagonal or septuple system
Use a piece of 1x4 pine, 4 feet in length, cut
notches A and B one inch square in each end as illus-
trated. In the exact center cut notch C 1^ inches
square, or larger if the diameter of the trees to be
planted require it. In double staking place notch C
over the tree stake each time, being careful that the
stake comes in the center of the notch. With the
board firmly held in this position drive stakes in
notches A and B, remove the board and pull up the
tree stake at C, and dig the hole. In planting the
tree replace the board in same position holding the
18
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
trunk of the tree in notch C until the soil is filled in
around it.
In digging the holes be careful not to disturb the
two stakes set with the planting board or it will be
impossible to get the tree accurately set. The holes
should be dug 18 to 20 inches in diameter and about
the same depth. Open root trees require a somewhat
larger hole than balls. It is not advisable to dig the
hole much deeper than necessary to hold the ball or
roots, as there is danger of the tree settling if too
deep, and it is never best to have them any deeper
seemingly give the trees a little too much room rather
than too little. Unlike planting ordinary farm crops
where a mistake can be rectified the following year, a
citrus orchard is planted but once in a lifetime. Re-
member that sunlight and air are essential elements
in the production of all fruits and if trees are so
crowded that their branches touch, very little fruit
can be expected excepting in their tops where the
required light and air is available. The lower limbs
and sides of the tree where the bulk of the fruit
should be produced remain barren.
A six-year-old Marsh Seedless pomelo grove planted to Teague trees yielding 5 to 6 boxes per tree.
than they stood in the nursery. If holes are too deep
fill up to the required depth and pack firmly. When
it is necessary to dig deeper holes or blast in order to
break up hard pan or heavy clay sub-soil, water
should be run before planting so as to thoroughly
settle the earth before planting the tree. The fol-
lowing table will show the number of trees to the
acre by the Square, Quincunx, and Hexagonal, or
Septuple system :
Hexagonal
Distance Apart Square or Septuple Quincunx
10 feet 436 500 831
12 feet 303 347 571
14 feet 222 255 415
16 feet 170 195 313
18 feet 134 154 247
20 feet 108 126 199
22 feet 90 103 173
24 feet 76 96 137
30 feet 48 56 83
Note. — In giving the distances of trees of the quincunx,
the fifth or central tree is not taken into account.
In determining the proper distance to plant citrus
trees their habits and growth should be considered,
always keeping in mind the fact that it is better to
Our recommendation for planting the different va-
rieties would be for WashJngton Navels and other
varieties of similar growth, 22 feet apart by the
Square or 24 feet by the Hexagonal method. The
Washington Navel is not usually a rapid growing
tree excepting when planted on light alluvial soils,
and in such locations we would advise planting a
little further apart.
Valencia Lates should be planted at least 24 feet
apart on the Square or 26 feet on the Hexagonal
method. They are vigorous growing trees, and to
secure the best results when they reach maturity they
should have plenty of room.
Lemon trees are fully as vigorous as Valencias, but
due to the necessity of constant pruning they do not
usually make quite as tall a tree; however, the pro-
duction is heavier, and the pruning having a ten-
dency to cause the branches to spread out they should
be given fully as much room as the Valencia. . The
necessity for almost constant work in cultivating, irri-
gating, picking, hauling and pruning make it essential
that ample room be allowed.
Pomelos should be planted the same distance apart
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
19
Eureka lemon orchard planted to Teague trees producing $8.50 per tree gross for seven years.
as Valencias or lemons. They are vigorous growing
trees and require plenty of room if maximum results
are to be expected. If crowded the fruit will be
small and inferior.
Satsumas, Mexican Limes, Kumquats and other
slow growing varieties may be planted as close as 16
feet apart.
SELECTING GOOD TREES
By all means plant good trees. The first cost of a
tree is a small item compared with the expense of
bringing it to maturity. The cost of nursing along
an inferior tree to the age of maturity is vastly more
than that of bringing a thrifty vigorous growing tree
to the same age. Poor trees rarely make a first class
orchard, while good trees properly cared for seldom
fail. Patronize a reliable nurseryman whose reputa-
tion for supplying good stock is unquestioned and
whose experience in citrus culture will enable him to
give valuable advice and instructions in planting and
caring for orchards. Should mistakes occur, or for
any reason the trees fail to grow satisfactorily, a re-
sponsible nurseryman can be depended on to make
good any errors or omissions on his part. Trees se-
cured from reliable sources usually give satisfaction
and cause for complaint is rare.
Whether to plant balled or open root trees de-
pends largely on the season of the year the planting
is done and nature of soil in which trees are to be
planted. For late summer planting, or where the
soil is inclined to be heavy, we advise the use of
balled trees. These are taken out of the nursery
with 40 to 75 pounds of earth on the roots (depend-
ing on size of tree) and sacked and tied so that the
root system contained in the ball is not disturbed,
and if handled with reasonable care and properly
watered when planted the trees rarely ever wilt.
Trees handled in this way can be transplanted at
almost any time of year with satisfactory results.
Open root trees require more careful handling, but
if planted early before the weather gets too warm
and on light or sandy soil good results will be at-
20
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
tained. In taking up trees in this manner all the
soil is taken off the roots, care being used to prevent
their being exposed to wind or sun while being pre-
pared for packing. Damp moss is used for packing,
and when properly packed trees handled in this man-
ner will keep in perfect condition for two or three
months. We make shipment of trees packed in this
manner to Mexico, South America, South Africa,
China and Japan, and they always arrive in good
condition.
PLANTING BALLED TREES
First of all handle them carefully. The purpose
of balling is to get an undisturbed root system. By
rough handling the roots are jarred loose or broken
off in the ball and the benefit of balling is lost.
Better plant a properly handled open root tree than
a roughly handled balled one. Never carry a balled
tree by the trunk or top, always lift it by the ball,
either by placing the hands under the bottom or by-
grasping the sack at the base of the trunk. We try
to see that trees are handled in this manner at the
nursery, and if planters will see that their employees
are just as careful there will be less cause for com-
plaint.
Having received the trees at the place of planting,
see that they are not unduly exposed during the
planting. Only such trees as are to be immediately
planted should be distributed in the field. The re-
mainder should be kept in the shade and sprinkled if
necessary to prevent the balls from drying out. We
have seen trees set in the field for a day or two before
being planted and all grow, but it is a dangerous
practice, especially if the weather is warm or windy,
and the trees receiving this additional shock cannot
be expected to do as well as those properly handled.
In setting the tree. try and get it as near the same
depth as it stood in the nursery. Usually the top of
the ball should be about one inch below the level of
the ground, this allows for about that much loose
soil that is taken off in balling the trees. As trees
usually settle some after the water is applied, it is
best to set them just a little shallow rather than too
deep. Having gotten the tree in the hole, see that
the trunk and top are perpendicular before filling in
the soil. It is customary for one man to hold the
tree in place while one or two others fill up the hole.
It is advisable to use good top soil for this rather
than that taken from the bottom of the hole.
When the hole is about two-thirds filled, cut the
string at the top and turn down the sack, then finish
filling the hole. This allows the sack to quickly rot
and prevents the possibility of afterwards hooking on
to the sack with hoe or cultivator and disturbing the
tree. Do not pack the soil by hand or foot as it is
being placed around the ball. Firm it just sufficient
to hold the tree in place. The water will settle it
much better and more thoroughly if left in this way.
Water should be run as soon as possible after
planting. While balled trees will stand some time
without watering, it is best to settle the soil around
the ball within a few hours after planting, especially
if the weather is warm. After watering and before
the soil is thoroughly set, go over the orchard and
straighten up any trees that may have settled out of
line. After straightening up the tree fill in with dry
soil and hoe as soon as dry enough to prevent crack-
ing or drying out around the tree. Water thoroughly
again in ten days or two weeks, after which time the
trees should not require irrigation for from three
weeks to thirty days, depending on weather condi-
tions. In planting in the interior valleys during the
summer months it is advisable to irrigate every ten
days for at least six weeks after planting.
PLANTING OPEN ROOT TREES
As stated elsewhere, it is necessary to use much
more care in handling open root trees, as it is abso-
lutely essential that the roots never be allowed to dry
out. When planting trees dug in this way never
take but one tree at a time out of the box or package
in which they are received, then immediately plant it
using moist soil to fill in the hole. Never use hot dry
dirt or disaster will follow.
The man holding the tree in place should spread
out the lateral roots as the hole is filled up so that
they will be as near in their natural position as pos-
sible. If planted in warm weather, water should be
immediately applied. The best results can be ob-
tained by using a tank wagon for watering the first
time, and if the soil is inclined to be dry fill the hole
with water before filling in the earth, or as it is being
filled in. This will completely saturate and settle the
soil around the roots. If it is not practical to use a
tank wagon, or if irrigation water is available, have
the water running down the rows as the trees are
being set, and never plant more than one or two trees
ahead of the water.
In using this method, it is best to double stake the
ground so that a furrow can be run between the
stakes before the holes are dug. This will facilitate
getting the water to the trees more quickly. Water
should be again applied as in planting balled trees,
excepting that the ground around the trees must be
more closely watched than with balled stock, and if
it shows any sign of drying out or cracking apply the
second irrigation more quickly.
CARE OF THE ORCHARD
The success of all agricultural and horticultural
pursuits depends largely on the care and attention
given them, and in none is this more pronounced than
in citrus culture. Citrus trees will survive under
most trying conditions of neglect and abuse, but to
attain any degree of success in the production of
profitable crops, one must give them good care, which
means proper irrigation, sufficient cultivation and
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
21
enough fertilization to keep them well supplied with
plant food. The latter applies more particularly to
bearing trees.
The most of our California soils contain sufficient
plant food so that fertilization is not absolutely nec-
essary for the first two or three years, but a little
fertilizer applied each year after the trees are planted
will tend to keep up the fertility of the soil and often
times adds to the vigor of the tree.
allowed to go just a little short of water, it will tend
to send its feeding roots deeper where the moisture
is more uniform and thus enable it to better with-
stand the summer heat. One can go to extremes both
ways in the matter of irrigation, either of which is
dangerous to the future welfare of the orchard, but
it is safe to say that whenever the trees show the
least signs of wilting they should be irrigated.
The method of irrigation most generally used is
Irrigating a hillside citrus fruit orchard by contour furrowing.
It is impossible to lay down any hard and fast rule
as to the proper amount, time and manner of apply-
ing water in the irrigation of citrus orchards. These
matters depend largely on the nature of the soil and
climatic condition of the locality where the planting
is done. After the trees are established it is not
usually necessary to irrigate oftener than once in
every thirty days or six weeks, excepting on very
light sandy soils where it is sometimes necessary to
irrigate every three or four weeks, especially during
the warmest part of the summer. In our opinion it
is more dangerous to irrigate young trees too much
rather than too little. The over irrigation tends to
bring the fibre roots close to the surface where the
least warm weather and drying out of the surface
soil will cause the tree to wilt, whereas if the tree is
known as the furrow system. In young trees one
furrow is made on each side of the row eight to six-
teen inches from the tree, and the water is run until
the soil is well saturated up to the tree. On newly
planted stock, it is sometimes advisable to hoe the
soil away and allow the water to come even closer
than this in order to be assured that the moisture
will reach every part of the root system, but in no
case should the soil be hoed away so as to allow the
water to stand around the trunk of the tree. As the
trees get older the furrows are run further away
from the trees and in soils where the moisture does
not spread rapidly, it is advisable to run cross fur-
rows on each side of the trees and run the water into
these from the main ones. After the second year,
two furrows should be run on each side of the trees
22
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
and later, as the feeding roots reach the center of the
space between the rows, the entire space should be
furrowed out and irrigated. Care should be exer-
cised at all times to see that the water is run a suffi-
cient length of time to thoroughly wet the sub-soil,
thus enabling the root system to stay well below the
surface. In light sandy soils, the water will sub-
irrigate sufficiently while running through the rows,
or at least within 30 minutes to one hour after reach-
ing the ends, but in the heavier soils it requires a
much smaller stream to each row and the time re-
quired to thoroughly wet the sub-soil varies from one
half day to as much as three or four days, the latter
time only being required on the very heaviest clay
soils where there is a considerable slope to the land.
What is known as the basin system is used on
very light level lands. This method should never be
applied only where the soil is sufficiently porous, so
that the water will not stand in the basins but a few-
minutes after they are filled. In this system, ridges
Are run both ways, dividing the land off into blocks
or squares, usually one tree to a square, and a ditch
or furrow is made between the rows to convey the
water to the squares. As each square is filled the
water is shut off and carried to the next, usually be-
ginning at the lower end of the orchard and working
up to the head. We do not recommend this system
excepting where the soil is so loose and level that the
furrow system is impracticable.
Citrus trees do not usually require irrigation dur-
ing the winter months. The rainfall generally is
sufficient for their winter requirements. However,
it sometimes happens that through lack of rain they
require a light irrigation or two during the winter
or spring. Three to five irrigations during the sum-
mer months are the average requirements necessary
to keep a mature orchard in proper condition.
The proper cultivation of the orchard is equally as
important as the irrigation and the full value of the
irrigation cannot be conserved if the cultivation is
delayed or improperly done. The requirements of
the different soils vary as to time and manner of
cultivation. A light sandy soil can be worked in
about 24 hours after the water is shut off, while the
heavier clay soils should be allowed to dry from two
to five days, depending on the weather before culti-
vating. On soils of this nature it is advisable to fill
in the furrows with a harrow just as soon as the
surface shows signs of baking or crusting over. By
doing this the cultivation can be delayed for two or
three days or until the soil below is sufficiently dried
so that it will not stick together or turn up in solid
masses. Avoid cultivating heavy soil when it is too
wet, as it not only dries out much faster, but makes
it more difficult to work in the future.
The main idea in cultivation is to pulverize the
surface soil, so as to form a mulch fine enough to
prevent the sub-soil from drying out. If left loose
and cloddy much of the good is lost and irrigation
will be necessary again in a much shorter time. It is
customary to cultivate the ground from two to eight
times after each irrigation, going in a different direc-
tion each time, so as to thoroughly pulverize it on
all sides of the trees. Each cultivation should be a
little deeper than the preceding one so that when the
work is completed there will be a mulch of fine soil
from 4 to 6 inches deep. By starting shallow and
going a little deeper each time it tends to pulverize
the soil better and in heavy land prevents it from
breaking up in large clods. These cultivations should
not follow each other closely, but at intervals of
from two to four days after each two cultivations.
During the winter months, if it is desired to keep
the orchard clean, the ground should be cultivated
after each rain and at this time of year it is not as
necessary to pulverize the soil ; in fact it is better to
leave it a little rough so that the rains will have a
chance to soak in.
The practice of sowing winter cover crops or of
leaving the natural vegetation grow during the win-
ter months, is being quite extensively followed now,
and as most of our California soils are deficient in
humus, it gives quite satisfactory results, where prop-
erly handled in the spring. In following this plan it
is always advisable to leave the orchard furrowed out
for irrigation so that in case of a shortage of rain
during the winter or spring, an irrigation can be
given the trees whenever necessary. The cover crop
should be turned under with a plow as early in the
spring as possible. It is not advisable to plow or cul-
tivate very deep just before or during blooming time,
and if the cover crop cannot be plowed in before
this, it is better to wait until after the fruit is set and
then work it up with a disc, but in this case it will
be necessary to keep the ground well watered so that
the trees will not suffer during the blooming period,
as at this time the energy of the tree is taxed to the
limit, and the root system needs all the help possible
to support the top in its effort to set a crop.
FERTILIZATION
The many different soil conditions in California
makes it impossible to lay down any set rules for this
most important factor, but it is a matter that should
have the attention of the planter before the orchard
begins to show that it is in the need of plant food.
It is much more difficult and costly to bring an or-
chard back into condition, once it has suffered from
the lack of fertilizer, than it is to keep it thrifty by
adding plant food as the available supply is being
consumed.
The three chemicals necessary in the soil to sus-
tain plant life are nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and
potash. All our soils contain these ingredients, but
not always in available forms or sufficient quantities
to grow trees successfully, and never is the supply
great enough to last indefinitely, hence sooner or
later the artificial appliaction of plant food must be
resorted to.
It is best to start in while the trees are young and
R, M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
23
A citrus tree budded to tiventy-tivo different varieties.
fertilize enough to keep the fertility of the soil from
becoming exhausted. This can be done by growing
cover crops of legumes, or supplying barn-yard man-
ures or commercial fertilizers. The legumes most
generally used are peas, vetch, fenuegreek and the
clovers, the bitter clover (Melilotus Indica) being
the most popular on account of its rank growth. As
all legumes gather nitrogen from the air and store it
in the stalk and roots of the plant, they are much
more desirable as a cover crop than any other form of
vegetation. The amount of nitrogen derived from a
good cover crop together with its value in adding
humus to the soil makes it one of the cheapest ways
of fertilizing. The value of a cover crop depends
largely on the amount of growth it makes and the
manner in which it is turned under in the spring.
A large part of the value of any cover crop, manure
or fertilizer is lost if it is left on top of the ground.
It must be placed where the feeding roots of the tree
can reach it. It must be remembered that a certain
amount of plant food is taken out of the ground by
the cover crop and unless it is all turned under so
that the tree can get the full benefit of it, the plant
food returned to the soil may not exceed that con-
sumed.
Barnyard manure is considered the best for citrus
trees and careful experiments made with it show
more satisfactory results than with any other method
of fertilizing. Unfortunately the supply is so limited
that it is not always possible to get a sufficient
amount to properly fertilize any considerable acreage.
On bearing trees 10 to 15 tons to the acre should be
applied every other year.
Bean straw and alfalfa are also valuable fertilizers,
but can only be used when a surplus of feed brings
the price within reach of the orchardist for fertilizing
purposes.
In using manure, much better results are obtained
24
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
by plowing very deep furrows on each side of the
trees and placing the manure therein, then fill in the
furrows and allow it to decay. This makes it avail-
able as a plant food much more quickly than by the
old method of broad-casting it on the surface and
plowing or discing it in.
There are a number of good commercial fertilizers
put out by the different firms engaged in that busi-
ness, and the use of these gives very satisfactory re-
sults, especially where used in connection with either
cover crops or manure. On young trees, three to five
pounds per tree is used and as the orchard reaches
full bearing age, from 1,000 to 2,500 pounds per acre
is applied. Commercial fertilizer should be drilled
in to a depth of from 4 to 6 inches to get best results.
In sowing it on the surface and attempting to cul-
tivate it in, as much as 25 or 50% is lost by wind and
sun before it can be worked down to where it is avail-
able to the tree.
The most successful orchardists are those who use
plenty of fertilizers and apply them properly. The
application of fertilizer in insufficient quantities or by
improper methods is money thrown away. It has
been said that for every dollar's worth of fertilizer
properly applied, the orchardist may reasonably ex-
pect ten dollars in return. This may be putting it a
little strong, but we do know that it pays to fertilize.
PRUNING THE ORANGE
Orange trees require very little pruning to keep
them in proper shape as their natural inclination is to
form a uniform and well balanced head. During the
first three or four years the only pruning necessary is
to cut out interfering branches, sucker growth, and
shorten in such limbs as may have a tendency to
throw the tree out of balance. In pruning, always
use sharp tools and avoid making rough, uneven cuts.
For light pruning use hand shears having the blade
ground as thin as is safe, to avoid breaking. This
will enable the operator to do good clean work with
little or no bruising or splitting of the limbs. For
the heavier work the long handled shears can be
used, but we much prefer using a good pruning saw
wherever the limbs are too large to be easily cut with
the hand shears. In shortening in limbs, always aim
to cut to a joint and where a limb is to be taken out
entirely, be sure to cut close and avoid leaving a
stump to sucker and sap the vitality of the tree. On
all cuts such as it might be necessary to make with a
saw, it is advisable to use some kind of paint or wax
to keep out the moisture and prevent decay. What-
ever is used for this purpose, it should be of such con-
sistency that it will completely seal up the cut, or it
may as well not be used. k
As the trees develop, all dead limbs should be cut
out together with such sucker growth as may appear
and any other limbs that may clog the center or in-
side of the tree. The main idea being to have the
center comparatively open and the outside fairly com-
pact. By following this method, the bearing surface
of the tree is doubled and at the same time the accu-
mulation of dead wood is reduced to a minimum.
Dead wood is due to an overcrowded condition
of the branches and if this is corrected, it lessens
the amount of dead wood. Above all things never
clip or shear orange trees like a hedge plant, as this
tends to produce a thick mass of short branches that
will make the top so dense that the necessary sunlight
and air cannot properly penetrate it. To the eye, a
tree should present a compact mass of foliage but it
should not be dense. If it is necessary to prune off
limbs from the outside, cut them back to where they
branch, preferably cutting to a branch having an up-
ward tendency. All citrus trees are headed low and
as the limbs on budded varieties have a tendency to
droop, it is customary to allow the branches to hang
down, the idea being to prune off just enough to pre-
vent the fruit from brushing on the ground.
It is not necessary to prune orange trees oftener
than once a year, although it adds to their vigor if all
suckers or water sprouts are kept off, as they appear,
or at least if they are taken off once between prun-
ings. The customary time for pruning bearing or-
chards is in the spring just after the crop is picked.
PRUNING THE LEMON
Lemon trees require much more vigorous pruning
than the orange and to get satisfactory results this
:wprk should commence the first year after planting.
The tendency is for the limbs to grow long and ir-
regular and if allowed to go unrestricted the tree will
present a mass of long whip like branches, the fruit
being more or less on the ends of these where it is
easily whipped off or scarred and bruised by the
winds. Lemons are also more inclined to send out
suckers and water sprouts, and these must be kept
pruned out. By starting while the tree is young and
keeping the heavy growth checked, the tendency will
be to develop more fruit wood and as the tree begins
to devote more of its energy toward the production of
fruit, it will be less inclined to make the vigorous
rampant growth noted in the younger stock. It
therefore follows that care must be exercised to cut
out as little of this fruiting wood as possible and to
this end the operator must learn to distinguish be-
tween the two. Sucker wood can readily be distin-
guished by its rank and sappy growth ; the pith or
soft tissue in the center of the limb is also much
larger than in the fruit wood.
The limbs designed to make up the frame-work of
the top should be well distributed so as to form a
well shaped head and shortened back from time to
time, so as to give them strength to carry the fruit
of later years. The tops should be left somewhat
more open than on oranges, and where clumps of
growth come out from the ends of limbs shortened
back, they should be thinned out and only those left
that are necessary to shape up the top.
The vigorous growth of lemon trees makes it nec-
essary to prune them two or three times a year es-
pecially while they are young. This makes each'
pruning less severe than would be necessary if it were
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, CaL
left to be done only once a year, and the result to
the tree is much more satisfactory. Lemon trees are
headed at about the same height as orange trees and
the same general rule as to allowing the branches to
reach the ground applies. These lower limbs protect
the trunk of the tree from the sun and also shade the
ground around the tree. Having the trees headed
low is also an advantage when it comes to gathering
the fruit, as much of it can be gathered without the
use of a step ladder.
STANDARD VARIETIES OF ORANGES
WASHINGTON NAVEL
Fruit. The Washington Navel stands at the head of
California oranges. Fruit large to very large; peel inva-
riably smooth and thick, rendering it of good productive
quality; color a pronounced orange yellow; fruit marked
at the blossom end with a small but irregular and secon-
dary orange, from which it takes the name of "Navel" ;
fruit seedless and free from "rag"; flesh crisp and sweet,
with abundant juice possessing a flavor peculiarly its
own; shipping qualities of the best, "standing up" under
long-distance shipments and yet maintaining its fine eating
values.
less; shipping quality of the very best. The Valencia Late
is the best summer shipping orange known to commerce,
and coming into market at a season of the year when all
other varieties have been disposed of, is essentially in a
class by itself and exempt from competition.
Washington Navel orange
Tree. Of a rather moderate growth with small or no
thorns and somewhat umbrageous in character with full
rounded top; foliage a dark glossy green liberally fur-
nished; in California a strong and regular bearer, often
producing fruit the second year in orchard from the nurs-
ery rows.
History. This fruit was introduced into the United
States in 1870 by the Federal Department of Agriculture
under the name of the Bahia orange. Of the trees propa-
gated by the Department two were sent to Mrs. L. C.
Tibbets of Riverside in 1873; an event that can truthfully
be said to constitute the founding of the orange industry
in California. Originally the fruit was known as the
Riverside Navel, but as it became known in other locali-
ties, the name was changed to Washington Navel, in
honor of the Federal Capitol from which it was first sent
out. The original two trees are still alive. One was
transplanted in 1913, with the assistance of the late Colonel
Roosevelt, to the court of the Riverside Mission Inn Hotel;
the other still stands at the head of Magnolia avenue.
Of this tree we show an illustration on another page of
this book.
VALENCIA LATE
Fruit. Owing to its season, which extends from May to
November, this variety is second only to the Washington
Navel in commercial importance. The fruit is of medium
size, slightly oval; color a good orange yellow; peel thin,
smooth and of good protective quality; flesh of good grain
with abundant juice of fine citrus flavor; practically seed-
Valencia Late orange
Tree. Splendid form and of vigorous upright growth,
attaining to great size much like the seedling type of an
earlier period of the citrus industry; almost thornless;
its extensive planting can be commended on good citrus
lands that are reasonably free from late biting frosts.
History. This fruit is a synonym of Hart's Late and
Hart's Tardiff, and was introduced into California from
Florida in the early seventies. Among our earlier expe-
riences with citrus culture, we recall an orchard planted
to Hart's Tardiff trees, which on coming into bearing
developed a number of trees untrue to name. These we
budded to Valencia Lates, which on coming into bearing,
fruit and habit of trees were identical with the Hart's
Tardiff.
THOMSON IMPROVED NAVEL
Fruit. The Year Book of the Department of Agricul-
ture for 1911 gives the following description: Form
slightly oblong; size above medium to large; cavity small,
surface smooth ; stem slender ; color orange yellow, red-
dening somewhat after picking; peel relatively smooth,
rather closely adherent, usually thin and rather tender;
segments 10 to 12, irregular in size with open center;
flesh, rich yellow to deep orange in color, translucent,
moderately tender; not very abundant; seedless; flavor
sweet, sprightly, pleasant; quality good, but not equal to
the Washington Navel, but it reaches full maturity about
one month earlier than that variety.
Continued on page 28
THE TWO GREAT FAVORITES
The two fruits that stand out supreme in Cal ifornia citrus culture are the Washington Navel
orange and the Eureka lemon. The former finds its greatest development under California conditions
while the latter not only luxuriates with us but originated in this State. Both are an ornament to
horticulture and fruits of great economic value, which have added much to the horticultural wealth
of the State. The tendency of these varieties to "sport" has caused a wide variation in the productive-
ness of the trees and the quality of the fruit, due to so called "off types." Bud selection gives promise
of corecting this tendency so that both varieties will not only be more prolific but the quality of the
fruit will be better and more uniform. For the Teague Nurseries have grown trees of the best
types of both varieties which at the present time are being grown from selected buds from only record
bearing trees, thus assuring the planter trees that will be uniform bearers of high quality fruit.
LEADERS IN THEIR CLASS
Two fruits of later introduction than the Washington Navel are the Valencia Late orange and
Marsh Seedless pomelo. Indeed it can almost be said that these combined with the Washington
Navel orange and the Eureka lemon constitute the four pillars supporting the California citrus
industry. These two varieties of oranges constitute fully 70 percent of the total trees in orchard form,
while Marsh Seedless pomelos and Eureka lemons are easily the most popular in their respective
classes. The Valencia Late orange makes the supply of fresh oranges continuous throughout the year.
Its good keping qualities combined with its excellent flavor places it in the front rank as the ideal
summer orange. The same may be said of the Marsh Seedless pomelo as the fruit will stay on the
tree from one season to the next without deterioration.
28
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
Tree. In habit and appearance very much like the
Washington Navel ; a good grower, strong foliage and
well branched.
History. This fruit takes its name from that of the man
(Mr. A. C. Thomson) on whose grounds it was first
observed. Its origin from a scientific point of view was
a matter of much speculation in the early days of the cit-
rus industry in California; but of late years it is quite
generally conceded that it took its inception as a bud
sport of the Washington N'avel, rather than through any
process or manipulation of bnds.
MEDITERRANEAN SWEET
Fruit. Medium to large; shape oval; color a rich
orange yellow ; peel rather heavy and of good protective
quality; flesh of good grain and orange yellow in color;
flavor sweet and aromatic; a good shipping variety; sea-
son between Washington Navel and Valencia, usually
from April to July.
Navelencia orange
NAVELENCIA
Fruit. In appearance much like the Thomson Navel,
being of good size and shape ; peel of fine grain and
rather thin ; flesh melting to the taste and reasonably free
from "rag"; juice abundant and of good flavor; shipping
qualities up to standard. Season, January to June.
Tree. Of an unbrageous habit with fine symmetrical
top; possesses small thorns; foliage dark green and
glossy; an early and good bearer, often yielding fruit
the second year from the bud.
History. The claim that it is a cross between Thomson
Navel and Valencia Late is hardly tenable; it probably
is a variation in the regular Navel type of sufficient im-
portance to give it specific rank. Not extensively culti-
vated as a commercial sort.
PAPER RIND ST. MICHAELS
Fruit. Rather small, round, solid and heavy; peel
smooth, thin and of fine texture ; color yellow verging to
a lemon shade; membranes thin; grain of fine texture;
juice abundant; flavor sweet and sprightly; good shipping
quality. Season, April to June.
Tree. Strong and upright grower; medium thorny; a
good bearer. St. Michael trees in the Azores, in sheltered
situations, have been known to bear from 15,000 to 20,000
fruits in a single year.
History. One of the oldest varieties in cultivation in
the Mediterranean countries and in the Azores, where it
has long been a favorite. First planted in California in
the early stages of the exploitation and development of
the citrus industry.
Mediterranean Sweet orange
Tree. A good bearer and vigorous grower inclined to
a spreading habit but not attaining great size; practically
thornless; will stand a slightly colder temperature than
some of the other sorts; at one time extensively planted
in Southern California, but of late years planted sparingly.
History. Of European extraction and first introduced
and disseminated in California by A. T. Garey in the late
seventies and early eighties.
JOPPA
Fruit. Good size and highly colored when fully ma-
tured ; has a smooth thin rind ; flesh sweet and full of
juice, very little rag and nearly seedless. Ripens in April
but will stay on the tree as late as July.
Tree. Very vigorous and an upright grower, very
much resembling the Valencia Late and quite thornless.
History. Introduced from Joppa, Palestine.
HOMOSASSA
Fruit. Round, medium to large in size. Peel smooth
and thin; color orange yellow; flesh somewhat coarse
but remarkably free from rag; flavor sprightly and of ex-
cellent quality; ripens early but does not drop.
Tree. Of medium growth but of somewhat spreading
habit; quite prolific.
History. A Florida seedling originating in the grove
of Hon. Mr. Yulee at Homosassa, Florida.
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Gal.
29
RUBY BLOOD
Fruit. Of medium size and round in shape; peel thin
and inclined to be tough; pulp melting, juicy and of a
rich acidulous flavor; flesh a ruby red as the fruit fully
matures, showing through (he peel, giving it a reddish"
blush on the outside; a fruit of prime quality in its class.
Tree. Nearly thornless, a good grower and prolific
bearer; habit symmetrical and beautiful ro the eye.
History. An imported variety, undoubtedly from some
of the Mediterranean citrus districts. Introduced into
Florida by General Sanford, from whence it undoubtedly
found its way to California.
MALTA BLOOD
Fruit. Medium size, oval, of fine texture and flavor.
Pulp streaked and mottled with a blood red and almost
seedless. Peei has a reddish blush giving it an attractive
appearance. Ripens at about the close of the Navel sea-
Tree. Inclined to be of a dwarf habit with a peculiar
character of growth making it very easy to distinguish
from other varieties.
History. Introduced into California from Florida and
probably brought there from the Mediterranean districts.
Ruby Blood orange
NEW AND RARE VARIETIES OF ORANGES
LUE GIM GONG
Fruit. Good commercial size of the Valencia type,
ripens about the same time but will hang on the tree for
two, and even three years, and still maintain its color and
good eating qualities. Color a deep orange red; skin
smooth, flesh deep orange, very juicy and free from rag.
The flavor is a rich blending of sweet and sub-acid, and
when fully ripe its delicious quality is unsurpassed. Al-
most seedless. Its keeping qualities are such that it will
make a very desirable orange for shipping.
Tree. Very vigorous but inclined to be more spreading
than the Valencias. A heavy and regular bearer; said to
be very hardy and not easily damaged by cold.
History. A hybrid, propagated by a Mr. Lue Gim
Gong of De Land, Florida, from seed secured by poliniza-
tion of Hart's Late and Mediterranean Sweet.
GOLDEN NUGGET NAVEL
Fruit. Medium to large, solid and of good shape; peel
thin, more so than that of the Washington Navel, of fine
texture, surface being smooth to the touch, and of good
color; flesh exceptionally free from rag and seedless;
flavor of the best with abundant juice; a good shipper.
Season February to May.
Tree. Somewhat individual by reason of its excep-
tionally dark green foliage, abundant lateral, or fruiting
branches, and fine symmetrical appearance; foliage is
more lanceolate than that of the Washington Navel, and
in color a shade darker, not quite so broad nor appar-
ently quite so thick or leathery; wood growth, particularly
the younger branches, more slender and willowy.
History. A variation or "sport" originated in our or-
chards some years ago, which appealed so strongly as to
its economic importance that we have taken buds from the
parent tree and perpetuated the strain under the name
of "Golden Nugget Navel." Possessing real merit, it is
worthy of trial culture.
Golden Nugget Navel orange
GOLDEN BUCKEYE NAVEL
Fruit. The feature that distinguishes it from all other
varieties of Navel is a series of ridges of a deeper orange
color on the peel, which is smooth and of a kid glove tex-
ture ; flavor strongly aromatic, with a suggestion of pine-
apple; pulp of fine texture with but few segments; almost
entirely free from rag; a good keeper and shipper; its
earliness (January to May) gives it commercial rank;,
medium size.
Tree. A good grower; thornless; leaves lanceolate,
much more so than the general run of orange trees, and
30
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
only slightly serrated and dark green in color; new wood
inclined to grow slender but of good strength; general
habit and appearance of tree strikingly individual.
History. This is another "sport" discovered in our
growing orchards. Owing to the handsome and varie-
gated exterior, often showing a narrow ridge of Wash-
ington Navel peel, combined with its fine eating qualities,
induced us to propagate it and give it place in our pub-
lished list of desirable varieties.
VANILLA ORANGE
Fruit. Medium size, round ; skin smooth. Flesh quite
juicy and with a distinct vanilla flavor when fully ripe.
Tree. A strong upright grower and quite prolific.
History. Introduced from Florida.
BITTER SEVILLE
Fruit. Round, medium to small, quite bitter. Used al-
most exclusively for making marmalades.
Tree. Fairly vigorous and quite prolific.
History. Probably brought originally from Spain
Florida and later introduced into California.
SWEET SEVILLE
Fruit. In size from small to medium; flavor delight-
fully sweet and pleasant; peel thin and smooth; color a
strong yellow. Season February to March.
Tree. A good grower, prolific, and bears when quite
young.
History. Another introduction from Florida.
Golden Buckeye Navel orange
ORNAMENTAL VARIETIES OF ORANGES
BOUQUET DES FLEURS
Fruit. Medium size; peel like that of a King orange;
color orange yellow; a fine marmalade is made of the
fruit by slicing as a whole; also the Bergamot oil of
commerce.
Tree. Distinct in appearance, owing to the peculiar
shape of its leaves, which are round, thick, leathery, com-
pactly and densely furnished; flowers large and in clus-
ters ; free bloomer.
History. An introduction from the south of Europe ;
worthy of recognition on account of its oddity as well as
economic values.
GOLDEN VARIEGATED
Fruit. In general characteristics very much like the
Pomelo.
Tree. An ornamental acquisition with leaves of the
same shape and design as the ordinary orange with the
exception that they are beautifully marked with yellow
configurations.
History. Brought from Europe by the late John Rock,
of the California Nursery Company, and by it dissemi-
nated.
VARIEGATED NAVEL
Fruit. Similar to other navels excepting that the peel
is marked with silver configurations the same as the fol-
iage; quality rather inferior to other navels.
Tree. Inclined to be of slow growth and a lighter
green foliage, the leaves having silver markings or con-
figurations. When kept properly pruned makes a yery
ornamental tree.
History. A sport or bud mutation from the Washington
Navel and propagated for its ornamental value.
STANDARD VARIETIES— KID GLOVE ORANGES
DANCY TANGERINE
Fruit. Of medium size ; color bright shiny orange red ;
peel smooth, thin and leathery, being easily removed;
flesh dark orange color, rather coarse grained; juice abun-
dant and somewhat colored ; flesh melting and free from
"rag"; flavor pungent and sprightly; seeds from 6 to 18.
Season February to May.
Tree. Strong upright grower, resembling in habit a
seedling orange; when bearing heavily has a slight ten-
dency to spread at top, which can be avoided by proper
pruning; unlike most of its family, has a broad leaf,
much like the standard oranges; well grown, the tree
makes a handsome appearance with its intensely colored
fruits; to enhance size and quality of fruit, it should be
thinned out.
History. It is generally supposed that Dancy is a seed-
ling from China. In this countrv^Ahe variety was un-
doubtedly disseminated in Florida^Bbm whence it found
its way to California. It was Mp'n as early as 1843.
Cuttings of trees propagated from this original planting
strongly resemble the Dancy as we know it today.
KING MANDARIN
Fruit. Very large and flattened with loosely adhering
peel and segments ; color bright orange red ; peel rough
but of good appearance; pulp melting and free from rag;
flavor peculiarly aromatic and agreeable; seeds 15 to 20
in number; general qualities of the very best. Season
June to August.
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
Tree. Rather rigid and upright in growth; foliage a
rich dark green color; generally quite thorny.
History. Introduced into California from Cochin China
in 1882 by Dr. R. Magee of Riverside.
x JW
Spray o/ Dancy Tangerine oranges
- WILLOW LEAVED MANDARIN
Fruit. Medium size, flattened ; deep yellow ; skin thin ;
segments loosely adherent; flesh dark orange-yellow, spicy
and aromatic. Highly esteemed for. eating out of hand
because peel separates readily from the pulp; rated as
one of the best of the kid glove type.
Tree. A compact grower, forming a beautiful umbra-
geous head, hence exceedingly desirable as an ornamental
feature of the orchard or garden.
History. Introduced from Italy into Louisiana in about
1845, from which state it has been disseminated through-
out Florida and California.
SATSUMA: QONSHIU, KII SEEDLESS
Fruit. Medium, flattened ; the color is not red, like the
Dancy Tangerine, but a deeper yellow than the Man-
darin; rind and segments partly free; flesh fine grained,
tender, sweet, juicy and delicious; entirely seedless. Sea-
son November to April.
Thornless and of spreading dwarf habit; leaves
branches reclinate ; a slow grower and bears
Tree.
narrow ;
young.
History. The Satsuma is a Japanese sort, and is said
to have been first introduced into Florida in 1876 by Dr.
Geo. R. Hall, and later (1878) by Mrs. Van Valkenburg.
It first attracted attention in California in the eighties.
KUMQUATS (Variety Nagami)
Fruit. About an inch long and olive or egg-shaped;
color a rich golden yellow; peel (which is edible) smooth,
aromatic and spicy to the taste; juice somewhat sparse
but acidulous; sections usually five; seeds two to five.
The whole fruit, rind and all, is eaten and people be-
come very fond of it. Preserved in sugar or crystallized
the Kumquat, wherever it is known, is deservedly popular.
A Kumquat tree ready for planting
Tree. Dwarf and bushy in habit; usually when full
grown 8 to 12 feet in diameter; forming a shapely head,
rendering it an ornament as a tub plant or placed in the
garden. An enormous bearer, which retains its fruit for
months, giving it an added appearance of beauty as well
as utility.
History. Downing in his Horticulturist for February,
1850, makes mention of the Kumquat as a greenhouse
plant. At a later period it undoubtedly found its way
into Florida. Reasoner Brothers imported the egg-shaped
variety in 1885 and the round (known as Nagami) in
1890. During the rapid development of our citrus indus-
try from about 1875 to 1895, this fruit undoubtedly found
its way, with many others, to California from Florida.
32
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
ALGERIAN TANGERINE
Fruit. Similar in appearance to the Dancy Tangerine
but matures much earlier. Of excellent quality and size;
nearly seedless.
ALGERIAN MANDARIN
Fruit, Similar in appearance to the ordinary Man-
darin but ripens very much earlier. The quality is good.
Tree. Not quite as vigorous as other types of Man-
darins, but is very productive and its fine willow like
foliage makes it a very attractive tree for home and orna-
mental planting.
Oonshiu or Satsuma orange
Tree. A vigorous upright grower and fully as prolific
as the Dancy. We consider it a valuable introduction.
History. Introduced by Geo. C. Roeding from buds
sent from Algiers by Dr. Trabut of the French Govern-
ment Experiment Station.
Willow -I caved Mandarin orange
King Mandarin orange
History. Introduced by Geo. C. Roeding from buds
sent here by Dr. Trabut at the same time the Algerian
Tangerine buds were sent.
STANDARD VARIETIES OF LEMONS
Lisbon lemon
EUREKA LEMON
Fruit. In shape oblong and of medium size ; peel of
fine texture and good protective quality and rich yellow.
color; flavor of strong citrus quality; juice free and
abundant, with but little "rag"; cures and keeps well,
giving it high rank in the trade.
Tree. Stalwart grower and comparatively free from,
thorns; prolfic bearer, blooming and setting fruit con-
tinuously throughout the year, but especially a good crop-
per during the summer months.
History. Originated as a chance seedling in the grounds
of Mr. C. R. Workman, from seed imported in 1872 from
Hamburg. A few years later its fine qualities attracted
Mr. Thomas A. Garey, one of the leading nurserymen of
that day, who commenced to propagate large numbers of
trees of this variety by budding, thus exploiting and
pioneering the way to its dissemination pretty much over
California, wherever the lemon finds congenial conditions.
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
33
Eureka lemon
LISBON LEMON
Fruit. Of recognized merit in the markets of the coun-
try; fruit of average size; peel smooth, sweet to the taste,
pure lemon color, and of medium thickness; flesh fine
grained, nearly transparent and abundant juice; flavor
strongly acidulous and free from bitterness; practically
seedless; keeping and shipping qualities of the best.
Tree. Of largest growth; thorny; strong vigorous
grower well covered with foliage and a good bearer of
fruit, running uniform in size and even maturity.
History. The Lisbon is an importation from Portugal,
and found its early exploitation and development in Riv-
erside, where it was first made known by D. N. Burnharn.
In the earlier period of our citrus development it occu-
pied the place of honor, but its position has been super-
seded by the Eureka.
VILLA FRANC/ LEMON
Fruit. Size medium to large and oblong in form; peel
smooth, of good texture and bright yellow in color with
no trace of bitterness; flesh fine grained and translucent;
juice abundant with little pulp; a high grade commercial
fruit.
Tree. Upright grower; practically thornless; branches
spreading if not properly pruned; foliage abundant; a
^thrifty grower and good bearer, setting its fruit well into
the protection of its own foliage.
History. The Villa Franca was introduced into this
country by General Sanford, and first planted in Florida,
where it soon made a place for itself. In the late eighties
it was brought from Florida to California. In the former
state it occupies first place as a commercial lemon.
NEW AND RARE VARIETIES OF LEMONS
SWEET LEMON ^
Fruit. Small in size and rather flattened; color gray-"
ish yellow; flesh a dark lemon color; juice sweet and
insipid with slight lemon flavor.
Tree. A vigorous grower but of spreading habit. Only
worthy of propagation as a curiosity.
History. A Florida introduction.
DWARF LEMON (Citrus Limonium)
Fruit. Somewhat smaller than other lemons, but of
about the same shape and quality.
Tree. More of a bush than a tree. Never attains very
large size and is suitable for planting where space is lim-
ited. Very prolific.
History. Said to have originally come from China.
CEDROLA
Fruit. A species of citron but in appearance and flavor
resembles a lemon. Used in connection with certain re-
ligious ceremonies. Quality of fruit good but quite seedy.
Tree. Rather of dwarf habits but very prolific.
History. A species of Citrus medica, indegenous to
southern Asia, from whence it found its way to the Medi-
terranean and later to this continent;
PON'DEROSA LEMON
Fruit. Very large, rough and coarse, but full of juice,
of excellent quality. A desirable variety for home use
but of no commercial value.
Tree. Inclined to be of dwarf habit and quite thorny.
Very prolific, having bloom and fruit of all sizes the
year around.
History. A Florida introduction.
ORNAMENTAL LEMONS
VARIEGATED LEMON
Fruit. Average in size, mottled and streaked; juice
good quality; color variegated; flesh somewhat pink in
color.
Tree. Strikingly individual from the fact that its shin-
ing, lustrous foliage is beautifully veined and marked
with strong yellow-colored configurations, which give it
a royal and handsome appearance as a specimen plant in
the garden or on the lawn.
History. Originated some years ago as a sport, and
propagated in a small way solely for its ornamental
values, which give it high rank in landscape effects:
Growers should not fail to add a few trees of the little
known varieties of citrus fruits for the home garden.
Many of these possess an ornamental value that adds much
to the beauty of home grounds. Among the more desirable
ones we suggest a tree or two of Algerian Tangerine and
Mandarin, Sampson Tangelo and Citrus limonium.
34
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
STANDARD LIMES
MEXICAN LIME
Fruit. Rather small in size, oblong or oval ; color a
pale lemon yellow; peel smooth and thin; flesh fine
grained and grayish-green in color; juice abundant and
translucent; acid strong; flavor decidedly that of the lime
rather than lemon; almost seedless.
Tree. Medium and compact, growing from 10 to 25
feet in height; thorny; often cultivated as a hedge plant.
History. This variety was beyond question first intro-
duced at an early period into Old Mexico by the Span-
iards, from whence it found its way to California and
Florida.
TAHITI LIME (Bearss Seedless)
Fruit. Size of a small lemon, decidedly oval in shape;
peel smooth and thin; flesh fine grained with a greenish
tinge; juice plentiful and practically colorless; acid pure
and strong; flavor of the best; seedless; also known as
Bearss Seedless.
Tree. Of good shape, 10 to 25 feet high, with a good
spread of limbs; fruit produced singly and in clusters,
well protected by foliage; slightly thorny.
History. An introduction from the Island of Tahiti.
NEW AND RARE VARIETIES OF LIMES
RANGPUR LIME (Red Lime)
Fruit. Both the peel and pulp have a rich reddish
color. The peel is loose, somewhat like the Mandarin.
The juice has the acidity of the Lime and Lemon.
Tree. Fairly vigorous growth and said to be as hardy
as the Lemon.
History. Introduced from India.
THORNLESS LIME
Fruit. Medium size and good quality, having the true
lime flavor.
Tree. Compact and uniform in growth and prac-
tically thornless. Quite ornamental in appearance.
History. Introduced from South America by Dr. Fran-
ceschi of Santa Barbara.
SWEET LIME
Fruit. Of medium size with an abundance of highly
flavored juice and unlike other limes it contains less acid
and more sugar, making it quite sweet to the taste.
Tree. Fairly vigorous but quite tender. Should be
planted in a warm location.
History. Introduced bv the U. S. Department of Agri-
culture from Europe.
STANDARD POMELOS
MARSH'S SEEDLESS POMELO
Fruit. Medium size; peel thin, with half the usual
bitter; a true pomelo (grape fruit) and not a hybrid; prac-
tically seedless, specimens with merely rudimentary seeds
being rare; juice abundant and of exceptionally fine
flavor; flesh dark and rich. . In serving you are not
required to remove from 25 to 40 seeds, as is necessary
with the common grape fruit, but is ready for the table
when cut in halves; being devoid of seeds to germinate
when left late on the trees or in storage, enhances its
keeping qualities, which is a great factor in its favor;
cures and keeps like the lemon.
Tree. Strong, vigorous, compact, grower, and when at
its best is indeed an object of beauty with its liberal fur-
nishing of rich deep green foliage and great bunches of
pure lemon-yellow globe-shaped fruit; a good bearer;
quality and flavor of fruit is greatly enhanced by liberal
dressings of fertilizer to the soil ; when setting a heavy
crop, the fruit should be thinned out, thus affording the
tree opportunity to perfect the remaining fruits, insuring
quality, size and volume of juice.
History. The Marsh Seedless Pomelo was originally
introduced by Mr. C. M. Marsh, of Lakeland, Florida, in
1895-96. The original tree was a seedling, and the fruit
being without seed and of good flavor, at once brought
it into public notice. Its introduction into California
occurred about twenty years ago. The Shaddock, to
which the Pomelo belongs, is native to the Malayan and
Polynesian Islands.
TRIUMPH
Fruit. Medium; peel smooth, clear, thin and fine-
grained; less "rag" than in most grapefruits, and fewer
seeds; very heavy; juicy and well flavored. There is no
bitter in the juice, flesh or membrane surrounding the
cells and dividing the segments, and very little in the
white inner lining of the peel. Like the preceding, the
fruit cures and keeps equally as well as the lemon.
Tree. Of good habit and comes into bearing young;
prolific. Among the best of the later introductions.
Marsh Seedles pomelo
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cat.
35
History. The original Triumph Pomelo is said to have
been a chance seedling discovered in the grounds of the
Orange Grove Hotel at Tampa, Florida. Its commer-
cial dissemination dates from about the year 1885; some
years later it found its way to Southern California, and
soon attained rank with shippers as well as growers.
DUNCAN POMELO
Fruit. In shape it is slightly oblate and of desirable
size for commercial use, color clear yellow, with oil cells
showing through the skin; very juicy and said to contain
more of the true grapefruit flavor than any other fruit.
In Florida it ripens in December but can be left on the
tree until May without deterioration. One of the leading
varieties in Florida.
Tree. Quite vigorous and very hardy, said to with-
stand a temperature that will seriously damage other
varieties. The original Duncan tree is still producing
good crops of fruit although more than 80 years old.
History. Introduced by the Glen Saint Mary Nurs-
eries from a seedling in the grove of A. L. Duncan,
Duneda, Florida.
IMPERIAL
Fruit. Very similar to the Marsh Seedless in size, shape
and color; peel smooth and fine grained; juice abundant;
little rag; flavor sweet and pleasant; good keeper; seeds
more or less pronounced.
Tree. A strong upright compact grower; fruit well dis-
tributed throughout the bearing surface; fruits from sec-
ond to third year after tree has been planted in orchard
form ; habit good, making a fine symmetrical appearance,
true to the pomelo type.
History. A chance Florida introduction, given the
name Imperial, in California.
FOSTER POMELO
Fruit. Large in size, running from 48s to 64s, which
are the most desirable sizes commercially. Peel smooth
and fairly thin ; flesh purplish pink next to the skin chang-
ing to a clear translucent color at the center, has the true
pomelo flavor with very little rag; one of the earliest
varieties to ripen. ^*~
Tree. Of vigorous upright growth.
History. Said to be a sport of the well-known Walters
variety grown in Florida.
ODD CITRUS VARIETIES
SAMPSON TANGELO
Fruit. Compresseed spherical, slightly drawn out at
stem end like tangerine; of medium size, color chrome
yellow, consilerably darker than the pomelo, though not
so red as the tangerine ; skin thin, about one-eighth of
an inch in thickness, loose and easily removed, surface
smooth and glossy; segments 9 to 11, separating easily
like tangerine; membranes thin and tender; rag very
slight; quality excellent; texture very tender and juicy;
flavor slightly sub-acid, somewhat sweeter than pomelo,
medium in size.
Tree. A vigorous, strong, upright grower, and in the
opinion of its originators will prove productive; no
hardier than either of its parents, the Dancy Tangerine
and ordinary Pomelo, foliage more like the latter than
the former.
History. The hybrid seedling from which this variety
was developed was grown and fruited by Mr. F. G.
Sampson, of Boardman, Florida. On the suggestion of
the Department of Agriculture at Washington, we have
adopted the name of "Sampson Tangelo."
BUN-TAN L
Fruit. About the size of a large pomelo with rather
thick skin, light yellow in color. Flesh quite like a pom-
elo but with a pink tinge; has a distinct but quite agree-
able flavor.
Tree. Vigorous and in appearance quite like the Pom-
elo.
History. Said to be of Japanese origin.
CITRANGE
Fruit. Entirely different in flavor from any other citrus
fruit and said to make a very desirable drink, taking the
place of orange or lemonade.
Tree. Very hardy and quite vigorous. The value of
this variety lies in its hardiness and ability to grow where
the temperature goes too low to grow any other citrus
fruits. Can be grown in the Southern Gulf Coast States,
also in Northern California and parts of Oregon.
History. An introduction by the Department of Agri-
culture, being a cross between the common sweet orange
and Citrus Trifoliata.
THE CITRON OF COMMERCE
Fruit. Oblong, and conical in shape ; skin thick, warty
and furrowed in some varieties, while smooth in others;
color lemon-yellow and highly scented; pulp less acid
than the lemon. The Citron of Commerce is manufac-
tured from this fruit, and it also yields an essential oil.
The amount of citron rind sold in the United States
amounts to 12,000 cases of 250 pounds each, every ounce
of which is imported. Its manufacture in California has
been demonstrated.
Tree. Rather dwarf in habit, and inclined to sprawl,
but with its large light green foliage makes a very pre-
sentable appearance; it is somewhat susceptible to frost;
fruits and blossoms throughout the year.
History. Introduced into California both by private
enterprise and on the initiative of the Department of
Agriculture at Washington.
CITRUS TREES FOR THE HOME GROUNDS
No one thing has done more to increase the production
of California citrus orchards than bud selection. All the
care and labor expended on unproductive or inferior
fruiting trees will not make them produce good fruit, and
all such trees should be rebudded to productive strains
selected from record bearing trees. In buying trees from
nurserymen using nothing but selected buds the danger of
having unproductive trees or an inferior quality of fruit
is eliminated. The same labor and care expended on
selected trees will produce remunerative returns, whereas
only loss and disappointmnt is the result if unproven stock
is planted.
36
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
A busy scene in the San Dimas orange packing house.
HANDLING THE CROP
IN the earlier days of California citrus culture
it was not uncommon to find a small packing
plant at most every orchard of any size, but
such is not the case now. Only the larger
growers, having sufficient acreage to warrant a good
sized house, have their individual plants. With the
numerous packing houses in almost every locality
operated either by private packers or local association
of growers, it is no longer necessary for the grower
of 5, 10, or 20 acres of fruit to have a private plant,
in fact these packing concerns have picking crews,
working under the supervision of competent foremen,
that come to the orchard and pick the fruit and if
necessary, convey it to the packing house. The par-
ticular advantage of this is that these picking crews
are experienced men, knowing how to properly pick
and handle the fruit so that it will reach the packing
house in the best possible condition.
Upon the proper handling of the fruit largely de-
pends its carrying quality, and careless picking and
handling often causes heavy losses in decayed fruit
before it reaches the market. A slight cut with the
orange clippers, scratch with the finger nails or bruise
from dropping the fruit in the boxes will start decay
and one such fruit placed in a box often times causes
the loss of the entire box of fruit. It therefore be-
hooves the grower, whether he picks his own fruit or
hires it done, to use every care in seeing that it is
properly handled from the trees to the packing house.
The picking should be done with the latest improved
clippers. These clippers are so constructed that they
will not bruise the fruit. The stems should be cut
as closely as possible so as not to leave a long stem on
the fruit to bruise other fruit in the box. Never
allow either oranges or lemons to be pulled from the
tree as it invariably spoils them for shipping and they
will be thrown out as culls. Use a regular picking
sack made of canvas with the bottom so arranged that
it can be opened and the fruit let out in that way
rather than being poured out from the top. This
allows the picker to empty his sack into the boxes
without bruising the fruit. The field boxes are
usually supplied by the packing house handling the
crop. Never fill them more than level full so that in
stacking, the boxes will not smash or bruise the top
fruit. In hauling to the packing house use a wagon
or conveyance with good springs. Many houses will
not accept fruit hauled on a wagon without springs.
With the more general use of the auto truck for this
work, horse drawn vehicles are being displaced and
for hauling any distance they are not only much
faster but much easier on the fruit.
The modern packing house equipment is so de-
signed that all unnecessary handling is eliminated and
from the time the fruit is received at the door until it
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
37
Twenty carloads of boxes of oranges direct from the pickers ready for grading and packing.
is loaded in the cars for shipment every known device
is used to prevent bumps and bruises. As the field
boxes are taken from the wagon or truck they are
usually set on belt or roller conveyors which carry
them to the storage room. From here it is trucked
to the elevator which carries the boxes, and auto-
matically dumps the fruit into a hopper from which
it passes through the brusher, which cleans it of all
dust and dirt as it passes through. From here it
passes on to the sorting table where the necessary
help inspects each orange and sorts out the different
grades, placing each on separate conveyors which
carry the fruit to the grader or sizer running that
particular grade of fruit.
The common grades are designated as Fancy,
Choice, Standards and culls, although some houses
run additional grades known as Extra Fancy and
Extra Choice. Only such oranges as are perfect in
shape, color, texture and without blemishes are run
in the Fancy or Extra Fancy grades. The choice or
Extra Choice grade consists of all first class fruit not
quite up to the standard necessary for the first grade.
That is, they may not be quite so highly colored, of
just a little rougher texture or may have some small
blemishes, but nothing that will tend to affect their
keeping or carrying quality. The standard grade
consists of such fruit as will not pass for Fancy or
Choice but that is sound and of marketable quality.
All fruit that shows sign of having been bruised in
handling or where the peel is checked or split so as
to impair its keeping quality and all rough inferior
fruits are put into the culls. In former years these
were sorted over, the poorer ones being dumped and
the best of them sold to peddlers at a few cents a box
and came more or less in competition with the better
grade of fruit. With the establishment of Citrus By-
Product factories, most of these culls are now used
up in the manufacture of marmalades, jellies, ex-
tracts, etc., and while the price obtained for such
fruit is not great it tends to prevent it from being
placed on the market tp break down the price of good
fruit.
The modern packing houses are equipped with sep-
arate graders for each grade of fruit run, also with
automatic scales so that as the fruit passes from the
sorting tables each grade is weighed before passing
onto the grader and the grower knows just how many
pounds of each grade has been run for him. Where
automatic scales are not used, it is necessary to keep
each grower's fruit separate until it is packed, making
what is known as a "clean up" after each run, so as
to ascertain the number of boxes of the different
grades the grower's fruit packed out.
As the fruit passes onto the graders, which con-
sists of a series of revolving rollers set for the dif-
ferent sizes to be packed, the smaller fruit drops out
first and the larger sizes pass on to the end, being the
last to drop out. As the tfruit drops through, it
passes to packing bins arranged for each size. The
packers take the fruit from these bins and after wrap-
STANDARD PACKS FOR ORANGES
USED BY THE TRADE IN CALIFORNIA
STANDARD PACKS FOR LEMONS
USED BY THE TRADE IN CALIFORNIA
40
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
ping it in tissue wrapping paper, cut for the different
sizes, it is packed in the boxes for shipment. All
fruit is packed by a regular standard, and each
size has a certain definite way in which the fruit
must be placed in the box. The standard orange
box is divided into two compartments, each being
liy2x\\l/2xlll/2 inches, inside measurement and the
standard grades are 64s, 80s, 100s, 126s, 150s, 176s,
200s, 216s, 250s, and 324s. In grading the fruit it
is always run just a little large so that when packed,
it will fit tightly in the boxes and when the last
layer is placed, it should be about two inches above
the top of the box. This allows for any shrinkage
that may occur in transit and prevents the possibility
of the fruit becoming loose and shaking around in
the box. As the packers complete the packing opera-
tion, the boxes are placed on another conveyer which
•carries them to the press where the lids and center
strips are nailed on and the fruit is ready to be loaded
in the cars.
For local shipments ordinary box cars are used,
but for Northern and Eastern markets the regular
ventilated refrigerator cars are the only ones that
it is safe to ship in. For winter shipments these
cars are usually closed tight or ventilated, according
to weather conditions in the section through which
they are passing, but all summer shipments are sent
out under ice to prevent decay. Formerly the stand-
ard car of oranges contained 362 to 384 packed
boxes, but the shortage of refrigerator cars has made
it necessary to load heavier and under government
control the railway officials insisted on what is known
as a solid load whch required 462 boxes, and with
the return to pre-war conditions the railroads are
still insisting on the heavier loads. During the pres-
ent season the California Fruit Growers' Exchange
has been experimenting with water transportaton
with very satisfactory results, which would indicate
that a large part of the citrus fruit for eastern and
middle west consumption will in the future be shipped
by water as the fruit not only carries with very little
decay, but at a considerable saving in freight charges.
The process of handling lemons is somewhat dif-
ferent from that of handling oranges. In picking
lemons they are taken according to size rather than
degree of ripeness and it is customary for the pickers
to use a ring of the proper size to prevent picking
under size fruit. For winter picking 2 5-16 inch
rings are used and for spring and summer picking
21-2 inch rings.
Lemons are picked every month or six weeks
throughout the year. Those picked during the win-
ter months are put in storage and held for the spring
and summer trade, while those picked later are only
held in the curing rooms long enough to allow them
to properly color and become somewhat pliable so
as to facilitate packing.
Up to the present time no grader has been manu-
factured that will successfully grade lemons and
therefore this work must all be done by hand. The
grades as to quality are the same as with oranges
but the pack is entirely different, the standard lemon
box being 10^ x 14 x 27 inches outside measure-
ments, divided into two compartments, and the
packs are 210s, 240s, 270s, 300s, 360s, 420s, and
490s. These figures represent the number of lem-
ons of the different sizes there are in a box.
Pomelos are also graded by hand but are packed
in the standard orange box, the sizes being 36s, 48s,
64s, 80s and 96s.
The 36's, 48's and 64's are the sizes most in de-
mand, and as pomelos are very prolific it is some-
time adviable to thin the fruit when it is small in
order to give that remaining a chance to attain
marketable size.
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cat.
41
^-t^ j*i
'Mr~
Standard pomelo packs.
A standard lemon pack.
Standard orange packs.
A standard Tangerine pack.
The above illustrations convey a clear idea of the stand- tiful colored label, while the sides are stenciled with the
ard commercial packs of citrus fruits as they appear when name of the shipper. Note the regular manner in which
opened and placed on sale at points of destina-ion. The the fruit "opens up," which has much to do with its appear-
ends of the boxes are invariably embellished with a beau- ance and selling qualities.
From left to right: Puebla, Sharpless and Puerto. Avocados
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
43
Bearing habit of the better strains of avocado trees
TROPICAL FRUITS IN CALIFORNIA
AVOCADOS
AUTHORITIES tell us that the native
home of the Avocado is Southern Mexico.
From there it was introduced into the
tropical sections of Central and South
America. In 1526 Gonzalo Hernandez de Oviedo
gave the first written account of the Avocado, hav-
ing seen trees growing in Columbia near the Isthmus
of Panama. Other explorers report its presence in
Mexico and Central America during the sixteenth
century, referring to it as an article of food amongst
the natives. In these tropical countries it takes the
place of meat to a very large extent. The natives of
Guatemala consider a few tortillas, an Avocado and
a cup of coffee a very good meal.
The Avocado contains a higher percentage of oil
and fat, some varieties going as high as 30%. Thepro-
tein content is also higher than in any other fresh
fruit.
It will be seen from this that it ranks high as a
food and its consumption will be much more general
amongst the people of the United States as they be-
come acquainted with its true food value.
There are three different groups of Avocados: the
West Indian, Guatemalan and Mexican.
The distinction is, however, less between the West
Indian and the Guatemalan, the principal difference
being in the hardiness of the tree and the thickness
of the peel of the fruit, the former being more sus-
ceptible to cold and the peel thinner and more of a
leathery texture. The foliage is also of a lighter
shade than in the Guatemalan type.
Up to the present time practically all of the com-
mercial plantings in Florida have been of the West
Indian varieties, but in California they have not
proven successful on account of their inability to
withstand our winter climate.
The Guatemalan type being a native of the high-
lands of Guatemala, where the climate corresponds
more nearly to that of California, seem to be better
adapted to our conditions and the few old seedling
trees now growing in different sections indicate that
this type will thrive wherever oranges or lemons are
not damaged by cold weather.
The Mexican type is the most hardy of any of the
Avocados, but the fruit (with a few exceptions) has
a very thin skin and is much smaller than either the
West Indian or Guatemalan. The seed in most all
fruits of this type is inclined to be loose in the cavity.
This, together with the thin skin, makes them un-
desirable for shipping.
EARLY INTRODUCTION INTO
CALIFORNIA
As far as known the first introduction of Avocados
into California was made in 1871 by R. B. Ord, who
brought three trees from Mexico and planted them
at Santa Barbara. Other trees and seeds were
brought in and planted from time to time after that
date. The Miller, Murrietta and Chappelow trees
were some of the earliest. Many of the earlier plant-
ings were killed by frosts on account of being either
planted in localities not suited to their culture, or
being varieties of the more tender sorts not adapted
to our climatic conditions. Only after it was seen
that the more hardy Mexican varieties would sur-
vive and produce fruit here was any effort made to
propagate the better and larger sorts.
44
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
The Fuerte avocado tree: one of the leading varieties for commercial planting
About 1910 sufficient interest was created, by the
fruiting of some of the Guatemalan seedlings then
growing in different sections of Southern California,
so that explorations were made into the highlands of
Mexico and Guatemala in search of better and more
frost resistant sorts, as a result of which we now
have a number of desirable varieties that give promise
of placing the industry on a substantial commercial
basis in this state.
In May, 1915, a number of people interested .in
Avocado culture in California formed an organiza-
tion known as the California Avocado Association,
the object being to work together in establishing the
Avocado culture on a more substantial basis. Due
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
The Sharpies s c.vccado; in habit tree a tall grower and good producer.
to the efforts of these pioneers great advancement has
been made in the introduction ard selection of new
and valuable varieties, as well as in the elimination
of those that have no commercial value, also in cul-
tural practices and in handling and marketing the
fruit. At the present time the Association has over
four hundred members and the attendance at their
semi-annual rrcetings shows the interest manifested
in Avocado growing. A close study has been made
of the varieties now bearing, and only those that
have real commercial merit are recommended to
planters.
A bud selection department has also been organ-
ized and individual tree records are being kept so
46
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
that nurserymen and orchardists may secure buds of seed is started in beds and when sufficiently matured
known parentage, thus assuring the planter trees that transplanted to the field (much the same manner as
will prove to be prolific and true to name. citrus seedlings), and when lar-rp p-o<.~v. „-- '^
A symmetrical Dickinson avocado tree ; a 'vigorous grower and good producer.
We would earnestly recommend that all parties in-
terested in Avocado culture join this Association, as
their annual and semi-annual reports (issued in book
form) are alone worth the nominal membership fee.
GROWING AND TRANSPLANTING THE
NURSERY TREES
For the purposes of insuring increased hardiness
the Mexican seedlings are used as root stocks. The
to the varieties desired. Much care is necessary,
however, in budding, and both seedlings and buds
must be in proper condition to make the operation
successful. After the buds start to grow the seedling
tops are cut off and the young buds trained to stakes
the same as with citrus stock.
In taking up Avocados it is advisable to ball them,
although under certain conditions they may be moved
"open roots", but this method is very hazardous at
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
47
best, hence we do not advise it only where impossible
to take them out with balls of earth.
Before starting to transplant them all new or ten-
more quickly and generally grow better than when
moved direct from the nursery to the orchard.
After planting it is best to shade the trees until
A fine specimen Spinks avocado tree; yielding fruit weighing from 28 to 30 ounces.
der growth should be pruned off, care being taken to
paint all large cuts. This should be done several
days before the trees are dug. As with citrus trees,
it is advisable to place the trees in a lath house, or
under partial shade for a few days after digging,
before planting in orchard form. This gives the trees
a chance to recover from the shock of digging ; under
more favorable conditions they will start to grow
more readily. This can be done by driving
four stakes and spreading burlap over the top and on
the south side; the idea being to protect the trees
from the direct rays of the sun from about 10 a. m.
to 4 p. m.
As Avocados are susceptible to sunburn it is im-
portant that the trunks be protected until the trees
have sufficient top to shade themselves.
48
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
CLIMATE AND SOIL
It is safe to say that Avocados of the Guatemalan
type will do well wherever lemons are successfully
grown, while those of the Mexican type will with-
stand any temperature that does not damage oranges.
This of course applies to bearing trees. Young trees
just out of the nursery will not stand as low a tem-
perature as those that have reached maturity, and
therefore need some protection for the first two or
three winters, especially if planted where the tem-
perature is apt to go below 32 degrees F.
Mexican seedling avocado trees in nursery rows
Another climatic condition that must be taken into
consideration in the successful growing of Avocados
is humidity. The Avocado being a native of the
tropics naturally prefers a humid atmosphere and
therefore is at its best when grown within a reason-
able distance from the coast. Trees planted in the
hot interior valleys do not do as well as thpse enjoy-
ing coastal conditions, due to the dryness of the at-
mosphere rather than to the heat; it has been ob-
served that trees planted in such localities shed their
leaves in the heat of summer, no matter how moist
the soil is kept. It will therefore be seen that the
best locations for Avocado culture, from a climatic
standpoint, are to be found in the warmer sections
between the coast and the first mountain range.
Another climatic condition to be taken into con-
sideration is the danger from heavy winds
In regard to soil the Avocado does not seem to be
over particular, hence they will grow on almost any
kind of soil, provided it is of sufficient depth and
the drainage good. Trees do best, however, when
planted in a deep loamy soil. They should not be
planted where the water level is within three feet of
the surface. As we depend entirely on irrigation dur-
ing the summer months it is not essential that the
water level be at any set distance, just so it does not
come to within three feet of the surface.
PLANTING SEASON
The best time to plant Avocados is from March 1
to April 30, but they may be planted at any time
during the summer provided proper care is exercised.
It is not advisable to plant during the winter months
on account of the danger of frosts. It is best to
plant as early after March 1 as possible, as the trees
then become established while the weather is mod-
erate and they are in better condition to stand the
summer heat. They will also have the advantage of
a longer growing season, and thus be in a hardier
condition for their first winter in the orchard.
DISTANCE TO PLANT
The slower growing varieties, and also those that
make more of an upright growth, may be planted
from 20 to 25 feet each way, but the more thrifty
trees and those of a spreading habit should be planted
not closer than 30 feet apart. This also depends
somewhat on the nature of the soil, as trees planted
in a heavy rich soil make a more vigorous growth
than on the lighter soils. If uncertain as to the
proper distance to plant, give the trees the benefit of
the doubt by planting them a little further apart. It
is better to give them too much room rather than
have them crowded when they come into full bearing.
Standard sizes of balled avocado trees
2 to 3 feet, 3 to 4, 4 to 5, and 5 to 8.
PLANTING
Planting is much the same as with citrus trees.
On heavy soils, where the drainage is not apt to be
good, it is best to blast the holes before planting, but
the trees must not be planted until the earth has
been thoroughly settled again with water. Set the
trees as near as possible the same depth as they grew
in the nursery, and never more than one or two
inches above the top of the ball. Fill the holes with
surface soil and water immediately. Do not mix fer-
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
49
A prolific Puebla avocado tree, habit erect icith spreading branches.
tilizer of any kind with the soil used in filling the
holes and it is best not to apply any fertilizer until
after the trees have become established and started to
make some growth. Unless the soil is very poor, do
not fertilize until trees start to bear and at first use
it very sparingly.
Budded Avocados are quite tender and easily dam-
aged, so care must be exercised in handling. Never
lift them bv the trunk but always take hold of the
ball from underneath or by the loose ends of the
burlap above where it is tied in balling. Extreme
care must be exercised in handling balled trees so as
rot to crack or break the ball in any way, or the
benefit to be derived from balling is lost and the tree
is apt to die.
As stated elsewhere, the Avocado is very suscep-
tible to sunburn, so do not neglect to properly shade
the tree as soon as planted. This covering should be
50
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
A <well-de<veloped fruiting avocado orchard.
left on for a month or more or until they have made
some new growth. After this covering is remove ..
tree protectors or some other covering should be put
on the trunks and any exposed limbs should be either
whitewashed or covered until sufficient top has been
made to protect them from the direct rays of the sun.
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS
We are told that in the Tropics very little care is
given Avocados, in fact, most of the trees grow in a
comparative wild state; however, we must not as-
sume that they will do well here under similar neg-
lect, as our climatic conditions vary greatly from
those of the Tropics, and therefore we must adopt
methods more in accordance with those used in gen-
eral orchard culture. It has been our observation
that the Avocado orchards, where cultivation is prac-
ticed and the soil kept free from weeds or other vege-
table growth, show better growth than where they
are allowed to grow more as they do in the country
of their nativity.
The Avocado is a vigorous growing tree, and
therefore requires an abundance of moisture. Ex-
cepting in very heavy soils, where the drainage is
inclined to be poor, it is almost impossible to give
them too much water. This does not mean, however,
that irrigation should be continuous. On light soils
an irrigation every two or three weeks during the
warmest part of the summer will keep them in good
condition provided, of course, the soil is kept well
cultivated between irrigations. On the heavier clay
soils they should only be irrigated every three or
four weeks, depending on the weather.
As yet but few growers agree as to proper methods
of applying water and cultivation, no doubt due to
the varied condition of the Southern California soils.
A method that might be ideal in one section may
prove to be entirely wrong in another, and thus it is
more or less up to the individual planter to study
his local conditions and treat his trees accordingly.
In the lighter soils the basin system of irrigation
works very satisfactorily. These basins are made so
that no water will reach the trunk of the tree and
large enough to give the entire root system a thorough
irrigation. Usually the basin should be just a little
larger than the top diameter of the tree. If straw
is available the basin can be filled with it and this
will act as a mulch, and it will not be necessary to
hoe or cultivate around the trees after each irriga-
tion. During the winter and after the irrigation
season is over it will be advisable to cultivate in the
basin and work the straw into the soil where it may
be converted into humus and plant food for the
tree the following season.
On the heavier clay soils we doubt the advisability
of using the basin system of irrigation, and think
the furrow system, similar to that used in citrus
orchards, will prove more satisfactory. Ordinarly
we have sufficient rain so that winter irrigation is
not necessary, however, it occasionally happens that
due to irregular or a lack of rain, the trees may
require some irrigation during the winter months.
This would apply more particularly to trees of bear-
ing age and during or just after the blooming stage,
as the tree must not be allowed to suffer from want
of moisture during the critical period, or the fruit
will not set.
FERTILIZATION
This is another matter on which all planters are
not agreed, some maintaining that the tree should
not be fertilized until it comes into bearing, and
then only very sparingly, while others advocate the
use of fertilizer from the time the trees are' first
planted. This difference of opinion we think is also
due to the difference in soil conditions, and each
advocate may be right in his particular locality. On
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
51
the lighter soils a little fertilizer applied intelligently
after the first year will no doubt be of much benefit
to the tree, while on the heavier soils it might pro-
duce too vigorous a growth and, as maintained by
PRUNING
Very little attention has been given to this phase
of Avocado culture, and to date there has not been
Avocado tree fruiting in nursery roiv
some, cause the tree to be later in coming into bear-
ing. The experiments made to date with the differ-
ent fertilizers seem to indicate that well rotted barn-
yard manure gives better results than the commercial
fertilizers. If the latter is used, it should be as far
as possible of animal rather than mineral origin.
Bearing branch of Dicky A. avocado tree.
Lyon avocado tree; an early and prolific bearer
•
sufficient experiments made to determine just the
proper methods to pursue with the different varie-
ties. It is safe to say, however, that enough pruning
should be done to cause the young tree to form a
well-balanced head and frame work so that in after
years it will be capable of holding its maximum
capacity of fruit. Most varieties of Avocados form
a very symmetrical head and little pruning is
required. However, a little pruning when young in
the way of making a proper distribution of the main
branches will be of immense benefit to the tree in
later years. All cuts, whether large or small, should
be made smooth and carefully painted or waxed over
immediately to prevent fungus or decay.
TOP WORKING AVOCADO TREES.
Most of the earlier plantings of Avocados were
from seedling trees and many of these have proven
unprofitable, either on account of the poor quality
of the fruit or the failure of the trees to bear fruit.
52
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
All such can be top-worked to profitable varieties
at less expense and a new top grown in much
shorter time than would be necessary to grow a
new tree to bearing age.
The strong vigorous root system of the older tree
causes the grafts to make a remarkable growth and
in two or three years the new top will be almost as
large as the original tree.
Top-worked avocado tree 18 months from budding.
Top working by grafting gives more satisfactory
results than budding and if the instructions here
given are followed out carefully there should be
no difficulty in getting a good stand of grafts.
The selection of the scions is most important.
They should be hard, well matured wood cut from
what is known as "second growth," with plump
well formed buds but not too far advanced. The
scions should be from ^ to ^ inches in diameter,
depending on the size of the limbs to be grafted.
The months of February, March and April are the
best for grafting the Avocado.
The limbs to be grafted should be selected with
a view of forming a well balanced head, so that
when the remainder of the top is cut away the grafts
will make a shapely tree. Select three to four such
limbs evenly distributed and saw them off from two
to four feet from the main trunk, depending on the
size of the tree. If the limbs are large it is best to
first cut them off a foot or more beyond where the
grafts are to be inserted to avoid splitting and then
resaw them at the desired location. This last cut
should be made squarely across and at right angles
to the limb. Smooth the surface of the cut with a
knife and with a cleaver placed across the middle,
split the stump far enough down so that the pres-
sure will not be too great on the grafts. After re-
moving the cleaver insert a wedge, made of some
hard wood, in the center of the split and drive it in
so that the grafts can be inserted without bruising.
In selecting the scions or grafts use the smaller
scions for small limbs and the larger ones for the
large limbs. The length of the scion is not impor-
tant excepting that there should be at least two or
three good buds beyond where it is inserted in the
limb. Cut the lower end so as to form a wedge of
about one inch in length. Extreme care should be
used in cutting the wedge so that the sides will be
perfectly smooth and fit perfectly. Insert one scion
on each side of the split in the stump, remove the
hard wood wedge carefully so that the scions are
slightly pinched but easily moveable and then adjust
them so that the outer edge of the scion comes in
contact with the cambium layer or inner bark of the
stump. This is important in all grafting opera-
tions, unless such contact is made the scion can not
unite. After the scions are carefully adjusted re-
move the wedge completely and wrap the stump
with waxed cloth from the surface down as far as
~the split shows on the sides. With a paint brush
apply a good coating of hot grafting wax to the sur-
face of the stump and over the waxed cloth, being
sure that all parts are covered so as to exclude the
air. On large stumps where the split between the
scions is quite wide it is advisable to fill it with
paper or cloth before applying the wax to prevent it
from running off, also between the outer edge of the
scion and the waxed cloth there may be an opening
due to the difference in the thickness of the bark on
the scion and that of the stump and this should be
carefully filled with wax. The end of the scion
should be sealed with either wax or paint to prevent
its drying out.
After the grafting is complete wrap newspaper
around the stumps so that it will extend out over
the scions and protect them from the sun but not so
as to interfere with their growth. Wherever possi-
ble leave one or two limbs on each stump to keep up
the flow of sap and also one or two of main limbs
where it is not necessary to cut them all off for
grafting. These limbs should be left until the grafts
have made considerable growth. The trunk and all
exposed limbs should be well whitewashed to pre-
vent sunburn.
After the grafts start to grow they should be
carefully watched and where necessary supported to
prevent their being broken by the wind. On ac-
count of their rapid growth they are quite apt to
make more top than the union can support the first
year and as a result the graft breaks out of the stump
if not supported. This can be overcome somewhat
if the growth is kept topped back and each graft is
made to properly branch and thicken up as it grows.
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
53
THE FIFE RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF THE STATE ASSOCIATION
PUEBLA (Mexican)
Fruit. True Mexican type, skin quite thin and a beau-
tiful dark glossy purple when ripe. It is (he smallest of
the recommended varieties, weighing from six to four'een
ounces wi h a medium-sized seed which fits tigh ly in the
cavity. The flesh is yellow, smooth and of a rich flavor.
The period of eight months from blossom to maturity of
the fruit is the shorest of any of the reCDmmended varie-
ties. Ripens in December and January.
Tree. A compact grower, erect and very hardy. Has
proven to be an early and heavy bearer. Considered one
of the best types of Avocados.
History. Introduced as budwood in 1911 by West India
Gardens from Atlisco, Puebla, Mexico, under No. 13. One
of ih? two varieties selected from over a hundred that
were introduced from lhat sec. ion.
The prolific bearing Lyon avocado
FUERTE (Guatemalan)
Fruit. Pear-shaped, dull green in color and matures
at an exceptionally good time. Weight from ten to .six-
teen, ounces and has a medium-sized seed. Samples of
the fruit have analyzed as high as 30 percent fat or oil,
being one of the highest yet tested. This, together with
its other good qualities, gives it rank as one of the best.
Ripens January to March inclusive.
Tree. Very vigorous but of spreading habit, appears
to be a hybrid of the Mexican and Guatemalan types and
has proven to be the most hardy on the list. It bears
"early and regularly.
History. Introduced as budwood in 1911 from Atlisco,
Puebla, Mexico, under No. 15. This is the only other
variety selected from the one hundred odd varieties intro-
duced from the highlands of Mexico.
SPINKS (Guatemalan)
Fruit. Varies from nearly round to slightly pear shape
and weighs from sixteen to twenty ounces. ' The seed
averages large in proportion to the flesh, but fits tightly
in the cavity. The flesh is cream-colored, smooth and of
a rich pleasant flavor. When fully mature, the thick
purplish-black skin gives the fruit a very attractive ap-
pearance and makes it a particular favorite on the mar-
ket. It is considered equal to the finest flavored Guate-
malan fruits. Ripens April to June inclusive.
Tree. An unusually strong upright grower and has
proven to be hardy and quite prolific.
History. The variety is of local origin, having been
selected from a number of seedlings grown on Mr. W. A.
Spink's place at Duarte, California. True G atemalan
type.
DICKIN'SON (Guatemalan)
Fruit. Oval to abovate in form, weighing from 12 to
18 ounces. The skin is unusually thick, woody and quite
rough. When ripe the purple glossy color gives it a very
handsome appearance. The seed is medium in size and
fits tigh ly in the cavity. The flesh is a pale greenish
yellow, free from fibre and has a rich, agreeable flavor.
Ripens from May to September.
Tree. A strong rapid grower and a regular and early
bearer.
History. The original tree was grown from a seed
planted in 1899 by Mrs. M. J. Dickinson, Los Angeles.
Belongs to the Guatemalan type.
SHARPLESS (Guatemalan)
Fruit. Pear-shaped and weighs from sixteen to twenty
ounces. The surface is slightly pitted or roughened and
is a beautiful bronze or dark maroon color when ripe.
The flesh is cream-colored, smooth, free from fibre and
of a very rich pleasant flavor. The seed is small and
completely fills the cavity. In direct contrast to the Puebla,
(he quickest to mature, the Sharpless requires eighteen
mon'hs from blossom to maturity of fruit. Ripens from
September to January.
Tree. A strong upright grower and trees budded from
the parent tree indicate that it will be an early and regu-
lar bearer. The difficulty in propagating this variety
makes it rather more expensive to raise and therefore it
will probably always be higher priced than other varie-
ties.
History. Introduced by B. H. Sharpless of Santa Ana,
California, where the original tree is now growing.
The Dickinson and Sharpless are not considered quite
as hardy as the first three varie:ies and should only be
planted where lemons are considered safe from frost.
Fruit of the Sharpless avocado
If the orchardist or home grower will plant these five
proven varieties, he will be assured of a succession of
fruit during every month in the year. The bearing sea-
sons given are the months during which the principal or
main crop may be marketed. Many trees will mature a
few fruits before this time and also hold fruits much
later than the months specified, but such fruits usually
represent a small percentage of the total yield.
54
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
VARIETIES OF MORE OR LESS COMMERCIAL
IMPORTANCE
LYON (Guatemalan)
Fruit. Shape pyriform, weighs from sixteen to eighteen
ounces. Skin moderately thick and somewhat rough;
dark green in color with numerous small yellowish or
russet dots. Flesh a deep cream tinged with green toward
the skin and has a rich pleasant flavor. Seed of medium
size, fitting tightly in the cavity. Ripens April to August.
Tree. Very upright in its growth but not so vigirous
as some of the other varieties. It is an early and pro-
live bearer, often setting fruit while yet in the nursery
row. On account of its tall, slender growth this variety
can be planted much closer together than other sorts;
fifteen feet apart each way being considered not too close
by some growers.
History. Originated at Hollywood from seed imported
by L. Lyon in 1913. Of Guatemalan origin.
BLAKEMAN (Guatemalan)
Fruit. Pyriform, weighing froi>: sixteen to twenty
ounces. Skin thick and woody, slightly roughened and
dark green in color. Flesh a deep cream yellow tinged
with green near the skin; flavor rich and pleasant; qual-
ity good. Seed medium size fitting rightly in the cavity.
Ripens April to August.
Tree. A strong grower but its spreading tendency
necessi.ates early pruning to produce a compact head;
it is fairly hardy and a good bearer.
History. Originated at Hollywood from seed brought
in by John Murrietta and planted in 1904. First described
in the Journal of Agriculture for November, 1913, under
the name of Dickey No. 2. It has also been known as
Habersham.
TAFT (Guatemalan)
Fruit. Obvate to pyriform ; weight sixteen ounces, skin
thick and somewhat roughened, deep green in color
Flesh cream colored, smooth and of excellent flavor. Seed
of medium size fitting tightly in the cavity. Ripens May
to October.
Tree. A rapid grower of spreading habit. Not con-
sidered sufficiently hardy to plant where there is danger
of heavy frosts. Also inclined to be rather late in coming
into bearing.
History. Originated at Orange, California, by C. P.
Taft from seed planted in 1900.
QUEEN (Guatemalan)
Fruit. Pyriform, weight one and one-half pounds. Skin
thick and woody; deep purple in color. Flesh rich clear
yellow, changing to dark green near the skin, and has a
rich nutty flavor. Seed very small, completely filling the
cavity. Ripens in early summer. This is one of the
promising new varieties.
Tree. Vigorous but of somewhat spreading growth ;
very productive.
History. Introduced by E. E. Knight of Yorba Linda,
California, from budwood brought from an elevation of
5,200-feet in Guatemala.
LINDA (Guatemalan)
Fruit. Nearly round, weight about two pounds. Skin
rough, thick and woody, deep purple in color. Flesh firm,
yellowish in color, with a rich nutty flavor.. Seed me-
dium size and tight in cavity. Ripens from October to
March in Guatemala.
Tree. Vigorous and hardy, productiveness good.
History. Introduced as budwood from Guatemala in
1914 by E. E. Knight as Knight's No. 39.
PICKING, PACKING AND MARKETING
The ordinary orange clipper is the best for pick-
ing Avocados. They should be clipped from the tree
at a point just above the swollen part of the stem,
usually about one inch from where the steam is at-
tached to the fruit. There has been much discussion
with regard to the proper time to pick the fruit, and
in the past not a little fruit has been picked and mar-
keted in a green state, a condition to be very much
regretted as it has a detrimental effect on the con-
sumption of good fruit. Many more people would
now be eating Avocados were it not for the fact that
the first one they tried happened to be immature and
consequently lacked the rich nutty flavor always
found in well-matured fruits.
For home use the Avocado should be left on the
tree until it is quite mature. The dark or purple
skinned fruit should not be picked until the entire
surface, especially around the stem, has changed from
green to purple. The green skinned fruit should be
left on the tree until the stem has commenced to
show a distinct yellow cast and the fruit loses its
glossy green color and assumes a dull or yellowish
shade.
For market purposes the fruit should be picked at
a somewhat earlier stage, but the most suitable time
will necessarily have to be ascertained by individual
experiments and tests until the California Avocado
Association has had sufficient time to compute the
maturity standards and dates of ripening of the differ-
ent varieties. The Association hopes to have this
data complete in the near future, at which time the
growers will be advised as to what condition the dif-
ferent varieties should be in, to comply with the ma-
turity standard. It is to be hoped that all growers
will co-operate with the Association in this work to
the end that the practice of marketing either imma-
ture or over-ripe fruit will be eliminated.
Up to the present time the local consumption has
been sufficient to take care of all the fruit raised in
California and little or no attention has been paid to
the matter of picking for shipment. In Florida, Avo-
cadoes are packed in tomato crates which are similar
to our orange boxes being 12x1 2x24. inches, divided
into two compartments. Coarse excelsior is used be-
tween the layers of fruit to prevent bruising. The
fruit is not wrapped as this tends to hasten ripening,
causing it to reach the market in a soft and unsalable
condition.
As the production increases there will no doubt be
some uniform method of packing adopted whereby
the fruit will present the most attractive appearance
and at the same time reach the consumer in the best
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
55
possible condition. With properly matured fruit put
up in attractive packages there is no question but that
there will be an ever-increasing demand for this valu-
able food product that will take care of the produc-
tion for many years to come.
FOOD VALUE
The Avocado by chemical analysis contains neither
acid nor sugar and heads the lists of fruits rich in
mineral matter and protein, but its greatest food value
lies in its oil content, which, in the better varieties,
varies from 1 7 to 30 per cent of vegetable oil or fat.
Most of our fruits analyze 200 to 300 food units per
pound expressed in calories, while the Avocado aver-
ages 1,000 calories. In fact, it is nature's combina-
tion of two types of food — fruit and oil.
The Avocado and the Olive are practically the
only two fruits that contain any notable amount of
fat or oil. The latter fruit has the disadvantage of
requiring processing before it is ready for consump-
tion, and should really rank as a processed fruit. The
Avocado stands higher in oil content than the olive.
It ranks with milk and eggs and is fully equal to lean
meat. It has the medicinal quality of a soothing laxa-
tive and is more easily assimilated than either dairy
butter or meat.
In Africa the Avocado, in addition to being con-
sumed regularly, is rendered like lard and butter and
in this way made to produce a commodity similar to
butter and fully as apetizing and nutritious.
ACQUIRING A TASTE FOR THE AVOCADO
THE flesh of the Avocado has a delicate,
rich nutty flavor and a smooth buttery tex-
ture which is very pleasant and satisfying.
People best acquainted with the Avocado,
especially those from the tropics, prefer it just as
nature has perfected it, without any seasoning, liking
the natural, delicious nutty flavor unchanged by
condiments. The flavor strikes the palate at once
as different, and the taste for it sometimes needs to
be cultivated. Possibly the best way for the novice
to do this is to use a little lime or lemon juice and
sugar, if preferred, which seems to bring out the
delicate flavor and the qualities of the fruit, and also
supplies the acid and sugar contents which the Avo-
cado lacks and people are accustomed to in all of our
common fruits. After a short time he will invariably
find himself thoughtlessly omitting these additions
and will commence to appreciate the natural deli-
cate qualities of the fruit. Many people prefer
simply the addition of salt, and if the flesh is first
slightly scored or slashed with the knife or fork
before adding the salt and then allowed to set for a
few minutes until the salt has dissolved and mixed
with the oil of the fruit, the rich nutty flavor seems
to be brought out more prominently.
The fruit as picked from the tree is hard and
inedible, and should not be used until it has softened
or mellowed so that when pressed it yields to the
slight pressure of the finger or leaves a slight indented
impression in the skin, showing that the flesh has
become mellow like an apple or pear. This usually
requires from seven to fourteen days after picking,
according to whether the temperature is hot or cold
where the fruit is kept. After the proper ripening
stage is reached they remain only a few days in a
fit condition to eat. Ripening may be hastened by
placing the fruit in boxes filled with straw, leaves,
or similar material. Some claim that the fruit
ripens more evenly when these boxes are kept in a
warm place. The Avocado may be served with any
course of food from soup to nuts.
AVOCADO RECIPES
Half-shell. Cut the fruit in halves and remove the seed.
Serve one half to each person, natural, or with lime or
lemon juice, or salt as previously described. The flesh
of the fruit is scooped out of the shell with a spoon. As a
breakfast dish this is very much appreciated and most
easily digested.
Avocado au Natural. Remove the skin and slice the
fruit as thin as desired. Serve on a plate garnished with
celery hearts or with tomatoes. To be eaten with a fork,
with or without salt as preferred.
Avocado Sandwich. One that may be recommended for
its healthfulness as well as for its flavor, has a thick
layer of well salted crushed avocado filling with very
thin slices of peeled lime or lemons.
Hawaiian Sandwich. Remove skin and seed, or scoop
out flesh from hard shelled varieties, mash the flesh very
fine, season to taste with salt, lime or lemon juice, and
spread liberally on a lettuce leaf placed between thin
slices of bread. No butter should be spread on the bread
as the Avocado is a complete and better ingredient to use.
This is a dainty and most delicious way of serving.
On Toast. Remove flesh with a spoon and mash with
a fork. Spread thickly on a mall square of hot toast.
Add a little salt. This is one of the nicest ways of serv-
ing the Avocado.
In Soups. The Avocado is used extensively in the tropics
in all kinds of meat soups. Cut in small cubes and add
to the soup just before serving. The flavor imparted is
exceedingly pleasant.
With Nuts and Olives. Chop nuts and olives, mix with
an equal quantity of mashed Avocado. Spread between
thin slices of bread and butter, with lettuce. Mix ground
walnuts with Avocado pulp to thick paste and spread on
thin Graham bread or wafers. Also makes fine addi ion
to any salad.
Avocado Ice Cream. (1) One gallon cream, one pound
sugar, pulp of sixteen medium sized Avocados. Rub
Avocados through a seive, add to cream and freeze.
(2) Yolks of five eggs, one quart milk, green maraschino
cherries, two cups sugar, four medium size Avocados,
almond or vanilla extract. Make a boiled custard of
milk, eggs and sugar; flavor. When cool add the fruit
and freeze. A maraschino cherry on top of each dish
is an attraction.
These recipes were selected on account of their sim-
plicity, but the thoughtful housewife can enlarge upon
them and find many ways of combining and serving the
Avocado. The fruit is used very extensively in salads of
all kinds.
56
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
A Montezuma tree in Guatemala, producing 3000 fruits per annum averaging 7J/2 pounds each.
MISCELLANEOUS TROPICAL FRUITS
FEIJOA SELLOWIANA
The Feijoa, (pronounced Fay-zho-a, accenting the mid-
dle syllable) sometimes called the Pineapple Guava, is
a native of South America and was first i-ntroduced into
France by Edouard Andre in 1890. From there it was
brought to California about 1900, and through the efforts
of Dr. Francheschi, of Santa Barbara, calling attention of
plant growers to its merits it has attracted considerable
popularity.
The plant never attains a height of more than fifteen
to eighteen feet. The leaves are similar in form and ap-
pearance to those of the olive, the upper surface being a
glossy green, and the lower silver gray. This, together
with its strikingly handsome flowers makes it a very
attractive plant for the garden. The fruit of (he im-
proved varieties is from two and a half to four inches
long and two to two and a half inches in diameter, of a
dull green color overspread with a whitish bloom. The
skin is thin, next to which is a light granular flesh sur-
rounding a jelly like pulp containing twenty to thirty
minute seeds.
The flavor is pleasing and suggestive of pineapple and
strawberry and has an aroma that is delightful and pene-
trating. The fruit may be eaten fresh as picked from
the tree or it may be stewed or made into jam or jelly.
It also makes excellent pies.
The Feijoa is hardier than most sub-tropical fruits and
will withstand a temperature of 15 degrees above zero
with little or no injury. It prefers a dry climate but not
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
57
one of extremely high temperature. Where planted in
the moist tropical regions it has not proven successful. It
will stand considerable hardships and is quite drouth-
resistant when once established, but reaches perfection
Specimen plant Feijoa choiceana.
only when it is properly irrigated and cultivated. It will
thrive on almost any kind of soil excepting where there
is a surplus of lime, but it seems to do best on a sandy
loam rich in humus. The plants should be set from fifteen
to eighteen feet apart and watered liberally while young.
Plants grown from seeds do not come true to type nor
are they always self fertile. To insure plants that will
produce and be of desirable types we graft all of our
Feijoas from the best fruiting sorts.
Choiceana. One of the best large fruiting sorts. Fruits
oblong about three inches in length. Is of excellent
quality and a good bearer. Ripens in the late Fall.
Superba. Fruit is nearly round and the plant not quite
so compact in its growth, otherwise it is similar to the
Choiceana,
CHERIMOYA (Anona Cherimolia)
The Cherimoya, sometimes called the Custard Apple,
is a native of South America from where it spread north-
ward into Central America and Mexico. It is not strictly
a tropical fruit and might be better classed as sub-tropical,
as it prefers a cool, relatively dry climate and in its native
habitat it only reaches perfection at (he higher elevations
back from the coast. In Guatemala and Mexico the
finest Cherimoyas are to be found at an elevation from
3,000 to 8,000 feet where the climate is mild and no ex-
tremes of either heat or cold are experienced. Young
plants will be hurt by a temperature of 29 to 30 degrees
above zero, but mature trees will stand a temperature as
low as 26 or 27 degrees without serious injury.
The tree is erect but has somewhat of a spreading habit
and rarely reaches more than twenty-five feet in height.
The fruit is usually heart shaped but is sometimes irreg-
ular in form. It also varies in weight from a few ounces
to as high as five pounds, however, the budded or graf'ed
varieties are more regular in both shape and weight. The
surface of the fruit is usually covered with small conical
protuberances, is light green in color and has a thin skin
making it necessary to handle the ripe fruit very care-
fully to prevent bruising. The flesh is white and of a
melting juicy texture. It has a very delicate sub-acid
flavor suggestive of pineapple and banana. When ready
to pick, which is from January to April in California, the
fruit usually has a yellowish tinge. Under favorable
conditions the trees begin to bear the third or fourth year.
Only budded or grafted trees should be planned as
seedlings do not always come true and very often are light
bearers.
The Cherimoya prefers a rich, loamy soil, but seems
to do fairly well on both ligh" and heavy soils, provided
climatic conditions are favorable.
Irrigations during the summer months should be
applied every two to four weeks according to weather
conditions. A thorough cultivation should follow after
each irrigation.
It is recommended that the trees be kept pruned to
form a low compact head, as this tends to make them
longer lived and more precocious.
THE WHITE SAPOTE (Casimiroa edulis)
The White Sapote is a native of Mexico and Central
America and is one of the principal cultivated fruits of
those regions, being held in very high es':eem by the
natives. It is sub-tropical in its climatic requirements,
and in its native home it thrives best in the highlands
at an elevation of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet and is not
found where the rainfall is excessive.
It was first introduced into California in about 1810,
but until recent years has attracted very little attention.
This is no doubt due to the fact that all trees planted were
seedlings, which do not come true to type, some bearing
small bitter fruit and others being shy bearers, or not
bearing any fruit whatever.
The tree is medium sized, erect or spreading in its
growth, with compound leaves. The fruit is about the
size of an orange and of a yellowish green color. The
skin is thin and the yellowish flesh of soft melting texture
has a peach-like flavor. Ripens in the Fall and early
Winter.
Seedling trees do not come into bearing until seven
or eight years old but budded varieties fruit much earlier.
It should be grown on well drained soil, sandy loam
being preferable, but will also do well on heavier clay
soil, provided the drainage is good.
It is quite drought resistant but will do much better
if irrigated about the same as citrus trees. Should not
be planted where it is too cold for Avocados.
58
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
THE GUAVA
The Guava belongs to the Myrtle family and is said
to be a native of tropical America. While it may be
used in many ways, its most general use is for jelly
making for which purpose it is unexcelled. It is first
mentioned in Gonzalo Hernandez de Oviedo's "Natural
History of the Indies" written in the year 1526.
STRAWBERRY GUAVA
Fruit. Obovate to round in form, being from one to
one and one-half inches in diameter, purplish red in
color and medium thick skin. The flesh is pink next to
the skin changing to a creamy white in the center and
contains a number of small hard seed. When fully
mature it has a sweet strawberry flavor. Makes excel-
A handsome and symmetrical White Sapota tree.
The tree rarely attains a height of more than twenty-
five feet and for the first few years appears to be more
of a shrub than a tree. Most varieties are very prolific
and come into bearing at an early age. It is strictly a
tropical fruit and should be grown only in sheltered
places, although some varieties are more hardy and can
be planted safely wherever oranges do well.
It is not particular as to soil as it seems to do equally
well on all classes of soil from the lightest sandy loam
to the heaviest adobe, however it must have sufficient
moisture to produce an abundance of good fruit. Only
the hardier varieties are recommended for California
planting; the Strawberry and Yellow Strawberry being the
hardiest.
lent jellies and can be eaten out of hand when thoroughly-
ripe. Ripens October and November.
Tree. More of a shrub than a tree, rarely attaining
a height of more than twenty to twenty-five feet. Its
glossy green leaves make it very attractive as an orna-
mental plant. Quite hardy and will stand about the
same temperature as the orange.
History. It is a native of Brazil but at an early date
was carried to China and for many years was considered
to be a native of the latter country and was called the
Chinese Guava.
R. M. Teague Nurseries, San Dimas, Cal.
59
Specimen fruit of the Anona Cherimoya or custard apple.
YELLOW STRAWBERRY GUAVA
Fruit. Yellow in color and somewhat larger than the
red variety, also has a milder and more delicate flavor.
Ripens at the same time.
History. Belongs to the same species and is probably
a seed variation.
Tree. Similar in growth and appearance to the red
variety and of about the same hardiness.
Massed group of Anona Cherimoya and avocado trees.
60
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture
TOPICAL INDEX
CITRUS FRUITS
Page
Citrus Fruits:
Historical _ 4-8
Buds From Record Trees 11-12
Buds Selection ....8-11
Growing Teague Quality Trees 8
Preparing the Land for Orchard. .14-15
Selecting Good Citrus Land 13-14
Training the Young Buds 12-13
Methods of Planting :
Hexagonal or Septuple System 16
Planting Balled Trees 20
Planting Open Root Trees 20
Quincunx System 16
Selecting Good Trees 18
Square System 15
Triangular or Alternate System 16
Care of the Orchard:
Orchard Management 20-22
Fertilization 22-24
Pruning the Orange 24
Pruning the Lemon 24-25
Handling the Crop 36-40
Standard Varieties of Oranges?,
Homosassa 28
Joppa 28
Malta Blood 29
Mediterranean Sweet 28
Navelencia 28
Paper Rind St. Michael 28
Ruby Blood 29
Thomson Improved Navel 25
Valencia Late 25
Washington Navel 25
Standard Varieties of Lemons:
Eureka 32
Lisbon 33
Villa Franca 33
Standard Varieties Kid Glove Oranges:
Dancy Tangerine 30
King Mandarin 30
Satsuma (Oonshiu) 31
Willow Leaved Mandarin.... ....31
Page
Standard Limes :
Mexican Lime 34
Tahiti Lime 34
Standard Pomelos:
Duncan Pomelo 35
Foster Pomelo 35
Marsh Seedless Pomelo 34
Triumph Pomelo 34
Kumquats:
N'agami 31
Nev> and Rare Varieties of Oranges:
Bitter Seville 30
Golden Buckeye Navel 29
Golden Nugget Navel 29
Lue Gim Gong , 29
Sweet Seville 30
Vanilla Orange 30
New and Rare Varieties of Lemons:
Cedrola 33
Dwarf Lemon 33
Ponderosa Lemon 33
Sweet Lemon 33
Neia Varieties Kid Glove Oranges:
Algerian Mandarin 32
Algerian Tangerine 32
New and Rare Varieties of Limes:
Rangpur Lime (Red Lime) 34
Sweet Lima 34
Thornless Lime 34
Ornamental Varieties of Oranges:
Bouquet des Fleurs 30
Golden Variegated 30
Variegated Navel 30
Ornamental Lemons:
Variegated Lemon ....33
Odd Citrus Varieties:
Bun Tan 35
Citrange 3 5
Citron of Commerce 35
Sampson Tangelo 35
TROPICAL FRUITS
Avocados ( Historical ) 43
Acquiring a Taste for the Avocado.... 55
Climate and Soil 48
Cultural Directions 50
Distance to Plant 48
Early Introduction in California... .43-46
Fertilization 50
Food Value 55
Growing and Transplan*ingTrees 46-47
Picking, Packing and Marketing 54
Planting 48
Planting Season 48
Pruning 51
Top Working Avocado Trees 51-52
Recipes for Preparing Avocados 55
Recommended Varieties:
Dickenson 53
Fuerte 53
Puebla . ....53
Sharpless 53
Spinks 53
Varieties of More or Less Commercial
Importance:
Blakeman , 54
Linda 54
Lyon 54
Queen 34
Taft 54
Cherimoya (Anona Cherimolia) 57
Feijoa Sellowiana 56
Choiceana Variety 57
Superba Variety 57
The Guava 58
Strawberry Variety 58
Yellow Strawberry Variety 59
The White Sapote (Casimiroa edulis)..57
THE
" EXPAN
PROTECTOR
FOR
CITRUS AND TROPICAL
FRUIT TREES
Every newly planted tree should have some pro-
tection from the sun until it has made sufficient top
to protect the trunk.
These protectors not only answer this purpose
but are a protection against rabbits and squirrels
and prevent sucker growth on the young stock.
Will not crack or split; are tough and durable,
waterproof, and will last on the trees from two to
four years.
Provided with wire fasteners — can be put on the
tree or removed in a moment's time.
Made in two weights of heavy paraffined paper
— No. 1, medium; No. 3, extra heavy; perforated
as shown in illustration, or solid, as desired. AND
THEY ARE CHEAP.
When ordering, state whether perforated or
plain protectors are wanted.
Length
Inches
24
18
14
12
Price
Per 100
$2.25
2.00
1.75
1.50
Price
Per 1000
$18.50
15.00
12.50
11.25
YUCCA TREE PROTECTORS. Made
from the Yucca Palm, being light,
porous and efficient.
24 2.25 18.00
18 2.00 15.00
14 1.75 12.50
12 1.50 11.25
Sfrong Growth I
Productive Value
GOOD FRUIT
AND
PLENTY OF IT
Is only possible from vig-
orous trees grown from
Fruit Growers' Supply
Company selected buds
from performance record
bearing trees on selected
root stocks ; the only kind
we grow.
The R.M. league
Nurseries
SAN DMAS, CALIFORNIA
GAYLAMOUNT
PAMPHLET BINDER
Manufactured by
GAYLORD BROS. Inc.
Syracuse, N.Y.
Stockton, Calif.
UNIVE1
BERKELEY
Return to desk from which borrowed.
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below.
JAN 6 1948
" 7 '
9 JurfSOGE
7jan52CFC
5 May 5 2 Ht
5 May 5 210
UAN 1 7 2004
LD 21-100wi-9,'47(A5702sl6)476
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